^^^'^^'i^^^^lU^ ^y(?^ ^^ ^yt/.^^'fo'^e^ ^l^^^AAe^n^ 64^i ^ J. V • V tf % ' u • 4 ^ K> K* :A THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL iranli t\i Mfldlr. WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE OPERATIONS NAVAL BRIGADE IN INDIA. BY THE REV. E. A. WILLIAMS, M.A., CHAPLAIN, ROYAL NAVY. LONDON: EICHAED BENTLEY, NEW BUELINGTON STBEET. 1859. IThe Author reterves the right of Tramlation.2 W4 ^\ 1^^ vO'^^ 6^ ^ ADVEETISEMENT. To THE EeADER. The following Narrative is selected from a Journal which was originally written without the slightest intention of committing it to the press ; but, on the representation of several friends, I have ventured to publish that portion of it which treats chiefly of the services of the " Pearl's" Naval Brigade in India, and which I thought would be interesting to the public ; and trust that the truth of the statements may so far conciliate the opinion of the reader, that he will forgive its other de- ficiences. July 2^nd, 1859. E. A. .Williams, Chaplain, Royal Navy. 'U X o i ^ X INTRODUCTION. The only excuse I can offer for publishing the following brief and imperfect Narrative is, that it gives an account of the services of seamen on shore of an unprecedented character. This is, I believe, the only- example in English history of officers and seamen of the Eoyal Navy leaving their ships, and taking their guns seven or eight hundred miles into the interior of a great continent, to serve as soldiers, marching and counter-marching for fifteen months through extensive districts, and taking an active part in upwards of twenty actions. I have refrained from making any remarks on the services of the Naval Brigade of H.M. ship " Shannon," with which I had not an b VI INTRODUCTION. opportunity of being sufficiently acquainted. But the events I have endeavoured to depict with reference to the Naval Brigade of H.M. ship " Pearl," to which I was attached as Chaplain during the two ha- rassing and trying campaigns of 1857 and 1858, I have had ample opportunity of knowing, either from personal observation, or the statements of those on whose veracity I can rely. Although the Narrative does not tell of thousands slain in battle, or describe the shaking of nations under the crash of con- tending armies, it nevertheless embodies an account of services rendered to the State, great, when compared with the means em- ployed. The country acknowledged these services in the thanks of both Houses of Parliament having been passed to the Eoyal Navy and Eoyal Marines as well as to the army ; and Sir Michael Seymour, the Naval Commander-in-Chief, expressed his high INTRODUCTION. Vll approbation of the gallantry and good con- duct of the Naval Brigades. " Their ser- vices," he remarked, " won the distinguished approval of Her Most Gracious Majesty and the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty," and their " brilliant campaign he had viewed with pride," feeling "that the honours so gallantly won by the Naval Brigades in India are reflected upon the Navy at large." The opinion of one so deserving of respect, gives me reason to suppose that a Narrative of what was done by them in the Upper Provinces of India may prove acceptable to the public. It is not that more credit can be claimed for this small force than for any other equal number of Britons under similar circumstances ; but it is considerations arising from the dijficul- ties that were overcome, the isolated position that was occupied, totally unsupported by Europeans, for many months ; the holding of an advanced post exposed to constant Vm INTRODUCTION. attacks, and removed from the rest of the army so far that its services and dangers have been little known, that afford an additional excuse for describing the part taken by the Eoyal Navy, and which may fill up a hitherto vacant niche in Indian history; and adding as it did to the strength of the army in Artillery when troops were few, and that arm of the service in particular was loudly called for in the country, I hope the following Narrative may show how it contributed a quota towards the many triumphs in India which shed lustre on the British arms. London, Jidy ^2nd, 1859. CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. Armament of H.M.S. " Pearl" — Voyage to Madeira — Rio de Janeiro — Straits of Magellan — Peruvian Revolutions — Capture of the " Loa" and " Tumbes" — Attack of the "Apurimac" on the forts of Callao pp. 1—32 CHAPTER II. Voyage to the Sandwich Islands — Honolulu — State of Education — Knowledge and Practice of IMedi- cine by the Natives — The Valley and Missionary Station of Kaneohe — Voyage to China — Boat ex- pedition against Chinese Pirates — Orders to sail for India — Arrival at Calcutta .... 33 — 5G CHAPTER III. Royal Marines garrison Fort William — The Mo- hurrum at Calcutta — Naval Brigade embarked in the "Clmnar" — Quartei's in Buxar — Naval Brigade at Chupra — Camp at Myrwa— The Attack on Goothnee — The Rebels advance to Sohunpore — The first Alarm 57—80 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Arrival of a Gorkha Regiment — Gorkha Arms — Action at Sohunpore — Flight of the Enemy — Their Camp taken — Sarun saved — Activity of Seamen in the management of Horses — All diffi- culties overcome — Defenceless State of the Country — Advantages of this Victory — Advance on Roodurpore — Punishment of Rebels pp. 81 — 107 CHAPTER V. The Fleet of Boats proceed up the Gogra — Captain Sotheby in Command of the Escort — Perilous Nature of the Expedition — Taking of the Fort of Chanderpore — The Crossing of the Gogra — Battle of Phoolpore — Gun turned upon the Enemy by the Royal Marines — A Kookrie Charge — Naval Brigade recross the Gogra — Prejudices of the Gorkhas regarding the Slaying of the Ox, 108—135 CHAPTER VI. Jung Bahadoor's Durbar — Nepalese Uniform — March to Kuptangunge — Character of the Country — The Fort of Belwa — The Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry join our Force — The Attack on Belwa . 136 — 148 CHAPTER VII. The Country disaffected — Perilous Position of the Field Force — Destruction of a Village by Ele- phants — Battle of Amorha — Disparity of Numbers — Rout of the Enemy — Goruckpore saved — Sikhs looting Propensity 149 — 174 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER VIII. Constant Alarms — A Fort constructed — The Rebel* Reinforced— Arrival of the left Wing of H.M. 13th Light Infantry — The Hot Season — Camp Routine — Action near Tilga — Charge of the Bengal Yeo- manry Cavalry — The Westerly Winds, pp. 175 — 1 9 ^ CHAPTER IX. Action near Jamoulee — Captain Clarke's attack on the Rebels near Bustee — Fatiguing March from Amorha — Taking of Nuggur — Bustee saved, 197—212 CHAPTER X. The Nepalese Army on its return Home — Govern- ment Servants mutilated — The Men lodged in Huts — A Locomotive Library — Recreation for the Men — Alarms — The First of the Dours — Attack on the Ranee's House at Amorha — The Rebels beaten at Hurreah 213—234 CHAPTER XI. Engagement with the Rebels near Lumptee — Attack on Hurreah — The Rebels beaten at Debreah — Dour to Bansee — Harassing March — The Rebels beaten at Doomureahgunge — Second Dour to Bansee — The Enemy beaten at Amorha — Jugdes- pore attacked — Rebels routed at Doomureahgunge —Rebels attacked at Bururiah . . . 235—260 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. The Rebels enclosed in a Net — The Force encamped at Intwa — Obedience of Elephants — The Force marches into Oudli — Battle of Toolseepore — The Siege Train — The Town of Toolseepore after the Battle pp. 261—281 CHAPTER XIII. Christmas Day, 1858 — March to Pepyreah — Sir Hope Grant's Flying Column — March to Puchpurwah — Naval Brigade ordered to the Ship — The Farewell — ^^Governor-General's Opinion of the Naval Brigade — Dinner given to the Seamen at Calcutta — Dinner given to the Officers at Madras — Voyage Home— Names of Officers 282—311 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL BOUND THE WORLD. CHAPTER I. Armament of H.M.S. " Pearl" — Voyage to Madeira — E-io de Janeiro — Straits of Magellan — Peruvian Revolutions — Capture of the " Loa" and " Tumbes" — Attack of the "Apurimac" on the forts of Callao. On the 24th of December, 1855, H.M/s screw steam-ship "Pearl" was commissioned by Captain Sotheby, R.N., at Woolwich, When ready for sea, she proceeded to Portsmouth, where it was intended she should join the fleet which was assembling for the third expedition to the Baltic. The "Pearl" was the first of the new class of 21 -gun corvettes, which had been commissioned. Her armament consisted of B ^ supplied; but spare ammunition-wagons,, limbers, and horses were deficient, and when with great difficulty and perseverance horses were procured, it was found necessar^^ to get the greater part of the harness made in camp^ not being able to get sufficient saddlery supplied ; and, instead of having spare am- munition-wagons and limbers drawn by horses, which is necessary to the efficiency of a battery, the only substitute that coulcl be procured was hackeries, or native cartfci drawn by bullocks, and warranted to go two or two and a half miles an hour by a vigo- H 98 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL rous application of the stick. A limber or spare ammunition- wagon was nowhere to be procured until after the first action, when those taken from the enemy, on that and other occasions, were, by the vigorous in- genuity and diligence of the ship's carpenter, Mr. Burton, converted to our own use, affording an example of that readiness with which a sailor can turn his hand to any- thing, and get out of a difficulty while many a man would be thinking about it. Inconsiderable as this force may seem to have been, the results and moral effect of this victory were of great importance, when it is remembered that a few days prior to the engagement, some of the most valuable and productive districts in India, from which a large revenue is collected, were threatened by several thousand rebels, many of the zemindars being disaffected and likely to render assistance to the enemy, and, as has since been discovered, their plans and ROUND THE WORLD. 0^ expectations liad been to surround by tlieir superior numbers and cut up the little force at Myrwa, and then march direct and un- opposed into the district of Sarun, where there was not a European soldier from the banks of the Granges to the frontier of ]N"epaul, except the Naval Brigade.* But the tide turned ; the wave which s.eemed destined to sweep over the fertile plains dashed against a rock, from which it receded broken and abased. Confidence was restored in the district, disaffected zemindars paid tlieir rents in silence, and thus, though the force employed was small, the advantages derived from the success were considerable- And when it is remembered that it was obtained without the loss of a single man, a few only being wounded, ought we not to be led to * About this time the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry crossed the Ganges at Patna into the district of Tirhoot, in number 200. H 2 100 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL believe that tlie Higli and Miglity One who is the only Giver of all victory, showed a favour unto us, crowning our arms with success. For several days successively, prisoners continued to be taken, one of whom was a SejDai of the 10th Eegiment of Native In- fantry. FolloAving the routine at that period of the war, he was blown away from a gun in the presence of the assembled troops, explanations having been given to the Gorkhas that this was not the English method of treating prisoners taken in war, but was only inflicted in this special case when the crime committed was stained with peculiar heinousness . As was usual with these men under similar circumstances, he walked up to the gun apparently with perfect indif- ference, was lashed to it with his back to the muzzle, and met his end with remarkable apathy. He acknowledged having been engaged on the 2Gth, and he must have ► • » , » » ROirND THE WOULD. lOl been zealous in the cause he had espoused, for he had gone out to the battle unarmed, waiting to take the place of some fallen comrade, whose arms he could appropriate. The Bajali of Mujhowlee was well pleased with the departure of the rebels, and often came into camp like a feudal baron, attended by the chief men of his household and armed retainers. His palace, however, did not present a very baronial appearance ; nor did it appear to afford w^hat we should regard as plain English comfort. On the 27th the tents and baggage came from Myrwa to Mujhowlee, where we re- mained encamped until the 30th, when the camp was struck and the force crossed the Chota Gunduck, and pitched the camp on the right bank of the river, near the village of Sulempore. During the halt here the time was occcupied not only in discovering and punishing tliose who had been active in their opposition to Government, but in getting the ife THE CRUISE OE THE PEARL best intelligence that could be procured re- garding the retreat and probable movements of the rebels at Goruckpore. Many of the peaceably-disposed inhabitants who came to pay their respects and make their salaams to the magistrate, complained bitterly of the plundering of the rebels in all directions ; in ikct, when poultry or mess stock was sought for along the line of march, the invariable reply was that the Budmashes had looted it all. But as many of them were rebelliously disposed when European troops turned their backs, they were not so much to be pitied ; and it is to be hoped that, having tasted the *' Eaj " of their own people, they may for the future be better contented with that of the British. After a succession of marches, the force arrived at Eoodurpore on the 11th of January, from which the Eajah had fled, taking with Mm his treasure and moveable property ; a great part of which was afterwards dis- BOUND THE WORLD. 103 covered and captured. The town was nearly deserted, and the houses locked up. It was a case of " like master like man." The ryots follow the steps of the ruler. If he is a rehel, the chances are they will be rebels too, although they have no very clear con- ception of the reason for being so. Here the force remained encamped until the 22nd. During the halt a sale of the E^ajah's pro- perty and effects took place, and the magis- trate was enabled to organize a police, and get that part of the country a little settled. On the 22nd the camp was struck, and the force left Boodurpore and marched to Growra, a small village which carries on a trade in the boiling and preparing of sugar. The camp was pitched in a tope of trees, and without any prospect of a move for a few days. Some of the principal residents of this village were said to have been killed at Sohunpore, and many others in the vicinity were known to have been dis- 104 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL affected. Next day a detacliment was sent to Pyena, about five miles distant, to punish some of the principal offenders; and the day ibllowing the force made a short march to Bajpore Grhat, on the river Eaptee. Having been deluged here by a heavy fall of rain, the river was not crossed until the 27th, when the baggage, guns, &;c., crossed in boats, and the men followed in the after- noon. There was some trouble in crossing .the baggage and guns in boats, but none in crossing the elephants. They take to the water as naturally as a spaniel, and swim. Their bodies disappear completely under water; the mahouts stand on their backs, %vhile the huge proboscis appears over the surface, through which he breathes and occa- sionally utters most uncouth sounds. Along the river, as well as on the adjacent Jheels, there are abundance of wild duck, widgeon, a kind of snipe, and geese, affording plenty of occupation for sportsmen. The Eamdliul KOUND THE WORLD. 105 regiment of Gorkhas proceeded to Azimglmr tLe same day as an escort for percussion- muskets (I believe 4000 stand of arms), which were to be brought back for the Nepalese troops with Jung Bahadoor, their own arms not being considered effective. The day following we marched to Burhul, on the left bank of the Gogra, which was on the high road from Goruckpore to Benares ; and some importance being attached to the keeping of the Ghat, there was a halt here for several days, until, by the advance of the Nepalese troops, by whom Goruckpore had lately been taken, after a feeble resistance, and with whom the Sarun field force was to act in concert, the insurgents were known to be entirely driven far to the westward. There was reason to suppose that four regi- ments of cavalry and 4000 infantry were at Fyzabad, not more than five or six marches distant, and therefore there was an addi- tional reason for keeping .a good look-out lOG THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL on this part of the river, boats being re- quired for the construction of a bridge across the Gogra for Jung Bahadoor's arm}% which was marching to Lucknow. The time occupied by these numerous halti^ was not altogether thrown away, as an op- portunity was given to the magistrate to make arrangements for the re-organization of the poHce, and the settlement of the dis- trict, while at the same time punishment was inflicted on the refractory zemindars by the destruction of their houses, and in such other ways as was most suitable. This, it must be acknowledged, does not seem to be a very chivalrous method of bringing the delinquent to terms, savouring something of the Groth ; but to the native of India it is a most severe punishment, and peculiarly humi- liating, being regarded as a great disgrace, and serves to keep up a wholesome dread in the minds of others, lest a similar fate should befal themselves. It is reported that at ROUND THE WORLD. 107 this part of the river, about Pyena and Burhuj, some of the most influential men impose a sort of duty or tax on boats passing up and down even in peaceable times, and therefore their punishment may be looked upon as an example of retributive justice for a double offence. ]()S THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL CHAPTEE V. The Fleet of Boats proceed up the Gogra — Captain Sotheby in Command of the Escort — Perilous Nature of the Expedition — Taking of the Fort of Chanderpore — The Crossing of the Gogra — Battle of Phoolpore — Gun turned upon the Enemy by the Koyal Marines — A Kookrie Charge — Naval Brigade recross the Gogra — Prejudices of tlie Gorkhas regarding the Slaying of the Ox. By the 8th of February, 150 boats were procured, and a small steamer called the "Jumna" was in readiness to accompany them up the Gogra as far as Gai Ghat, Along her sides, bulwarks, and around her upper decks fascines were attached, to pro- tect her as much as possible from shot, and the fire of musketry ; presenting, in some degree, the appearance of a moving battery. The following day Mr. Fowler, an officer of the Naval Brigade, was sent on board ROUND THE WORLD. 109^ the "Jumna" to take charge, and on the 10th the fleet of boats proceeded up the river as far as Ghopalpore, where the field force were encamped, having marched from Eurhul the same day. The intelligence as to the state of the Oudli side of the river was not very favourable to such an under- taking. Various reports arrived as to the strength of the rebels in the different forts that overlooked the river, and from which a few rounds of shot and shell would not only destroy the boats, but even long before this would be efiected, eveiy native boatman would have fled in dismay and alarm, leaving the boats to their fate. It would, therefore, have been hazardous to allow the fleet to advance further up without a strong escort. It was ascertained with tolerable certainty that four or five thousand rebels were at Tandah ; a towTi at no great distance from the place where the boats were required, from which a flying column might be detached by au' 110 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL enterprising and daring enemy (which for- tunately experience showed was not their character), and being brought to bear on any one point, might sink the boats. Intelli- gence being defective, the whole of that part of the country on the Oudh side being entirely in the hands of the insurgents, the escort, if taken by surprise, might not only have suffered considerable loss, but have entered upon a fruitless enterprise, the enemy not only having the advantage of the eminence from the banks, but being able at any moment to choose their own point of attack, and retire at pleasure, until another favourable opportunity might be presented, when perhaps the boats, turning round a bend of the river, might be met by a galling fire from some thick jungle or from behind some wall or embankment. After different plans were proposed and rejected, according to instructions received from Brigadier-General Macgregor, it was ROUND THE WORLD. Ill tin ally decided that the troops intended for the escort should be placed under the command of Captain Sotheby, E.N. They consisted of 145 seamen and marines, 100 Gorkhas, and 50 Sikhs, with one 12 -pounder howitzer, in addition to the steamer "Jumna" with two small guns. It was supposed that sailors would then be in their element, and in the event of getting into a difficulty, would, no 4oubt, be well able to get out of it. The defective knowledge as to the strength of the forts on the river invested the expedi- tion with some degree of peril ; but it was of the utmost importance that it should be carried out with the least possible delay, that the bridging of the river might be com- pleted in order to facilitate the transit of the Gorkhas to the siege of Lucknow. About eight o'clock in the afternoon of the 13th of February, the troops for the escort duty left Seekregunge for Eaibundpore (xhat, the place of embarkation, where they 112 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL arrived about eleven o'clock at night, after a wearisome march across a country without roads. Here they pitched two small tents, their rations of rum were served out, and no persuasion was required to retire to rest. On the 16th, the head-quarters, under Colonel Eowcroft, marched to a place called Chupra Grhat, on the Gogra, where a brigade of Gorkhas had been sent by the orders of Jung Bahadoor to render any necessary assistance in the advance of the fleet ; bu.t being completely bound down by the orders of their chief, the European officers in military charge had little control over them, and were utterly unable to force them to yield their aid in the manner most required and most serviceable, rendering their assistance of little value. The follow- ing day one regiment of Gorkhas, with two guns, was persuaded to march in the direc- tion of Chanderpore, a strong fort on the right bank of the Gogra, but, in obedience ROUND THE WORLD. 113 to Jung's orders, tliey refused to cross the river, except in company with the whole force, and the only advantage derived from their presence was, that they were present as spectators of the capture of the fort from the opposite bank. After the escort reached Eaibundpore Grhat, on the night of the 13th, it was de- tained there until next morning, w^hen, after the embarkation in the steamer and some of the boats, there was considerable delay by means of a strong wind blowing down the river; but after ceaseless energy and per- severance, notwithstanding the obstacles of wind, current, the absence of a pilot, and clouds of sand, the boats constantly running foul of each other, and sometimes creating the utmost confusion, and notwithstanding the absence of both chart and pilot, the fleet advanced on the 17th as far as the strong fort of Chanderpore, on the right bank, at ten o'clock in the morning. Captain Sotheby 1 114 THE CRUISE or THE PEAUL landed about two miles below the fort, with 130 of the Naval Brigade, 35 Sikhs, and 60 Gorkhas. This fort, like many others in Oudh, which are now happily either destroyed or in the process of being de- stroyed, might, with a few brave defenders, have made a most successful resistance against a very superior force. It was con- structed with a deep ditch and high embank- ment on all sides, except on that facing the river, where the height and precipitous nature of the embankments affording it suffi- cient strength,- rendered a ditch unnecessary. Inside were rifle-pits and loopholed breast- works, approached hj a zigzag path termi- nating with gates leading to a second set. It was also defended by strong bastions and a parapet, as well as substantial build- ings in the centre, all loopholed. And, in addition to this, it was surrounded by a thick jungle of prickly bamboo, so close set as to be almost impenetrable. Tliis latter ROUND THE WORLD. 115 defence, wliicli, in the hands of brave soldiers, might be turned to good account, is used by these renowned warriors, the Eajpoots of Oudh, for the purpose of cover in making their escape. In their own in- testine feuds it was*' regarded a disgrace to run without making some appearance of a stand, and, therefore, they would resist the besiegers for a day or two with uncon- querable bravery, in a place in which they were perfectly secure, until, according to their view of chivalry, they could retire from the strife, during the darkness of the night, under cover of the jungle, without any stain being cast on their gallantry, or slur on their military honour. But on this occasion, having Europeans to contend with, they did not think it judicious to remain so long. After Captain * This is written in the past tense, as it is hoped these feudal wars are past and gone for ever in India. i2 116 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL Sotheby had disembarked his men, the line being formed by the seamen, they advanced with a twelve-pounder mountain-train howitzer under Lieutenant Turnour, E.N. A body of marines and seamen skirmishers, with support of Sikhs under Captain Weston, 36 th Begiment Native Infantry (the marines and seamen being in charge of Mr. Ingles, mate, R.N., and the Sikhs Tinder Lieutenant Burlton), were pushed forward ; and having passed through the village, which was found to be deserted, the skirmishers were received with a heavy lire of musketry and guns from the rebels concealed in the rifle-pits and fort. Captain Weston gallantly dashed forward, and was a.s gallantly followed ; but in trying to force the gate, was severely wounded by a man inside, and immediately carried to the rear. The gun was then brought up vfithin a hundred yards of the entrance, and under cover of a house, fired several rounds. At ROUND THE WORLD. 117 the same time. Captain Sotheby sent orders to Mr. Fowler, E.N., to advance in the steamer "Jumna," and throw in a few rounds of grape and shot, which rattled through the bamboo ; while at the same time the Grorkhas threatening their right, the defenders being afraid lest their retreat should be cut off, fled with all speed tlirough the jungle in the rear, as the marines and Sikhs entered in the front. There was much valuable property found in the fort, of which the Sikhs, as usually happens, laid hands on the lion's share. Two guns were taken, one six-pounder, and one four- pounder, with limbers, and one spare ammunition- wagon. The enemy were supposed to be about 300 ; their loss most probably was trifling, by reason of the thick cover under which they found shelter. The casualty list on our side was, two severely wounded, and two or three slightly, their firing being, as usual, too high — the bullets IIB THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL passed over the heads of our men. Having no cavahy, pursuit was impossible ; and the object being attained, the adjacent buildings in the fort were burned, the piquets were withdrawn, and the men re-embarked. Erigadier-Greneral Macgregor, in his letter to the Secretary to Government, thus speaks of this affair : " I would beg to bring to the notice of his Lordship in Council the gal- lant and spirited conduct of all the officers and men engaged on this occasion, and particularly that of Captain Sotheby, E.N., whose performance of the very arduous duty of escorting that large fleet up so rapid and difficult a river, with one bank crowned with forts, manned by the enemy, has been such as to merit the very best acknowledg- ments that I can bestow. The crowning exploit of attacking and capturing the strongest fort on the river with his handful of men, will recommend itself at once to the notice of his Lordship in Council." ROUND THE WORLD. 119 After taking Clianderpore, tlie fleet pro- ceeded up tlie river as far as Nourainie Ghat, where it arrived on the evening of the 1 9th. Here there was another fort, and 4000 or 5000 rebels in the vicinity. Four or five miles further on, Jung Bahadoor was encamped near Grai Grhat, with 8000 or 9000 troops and artillery. A fruitless attempt had been made by the Maliaraj^ah to effect a lodgment of troops across the river, prior to the arrival of our force ; but, owing to «)me mismanagement, which brought down Ihe fire of the enemy from the opposite bank, terrifying and scaring the workmen employed at the rafts, the attempt was abandoned. It was therefore thought advi- sable to cross that night without delay, lest the enemy, hearing of the arrival of the fleet, should come down in force, and give serious opposition. At nine, p.m., the boats were ready, and all arrangements were made for the crossing -, and by ten o'clock the men of 120 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL the Naval Brigade, who had formed the escort, with two twelve-pounder howitzers, five companies of Gorkhas, and the de- tachment of Sikhs, landed on the opposite bank. The other two guns of the naval artillery were brought down to the left bank of the river, a little below the fort, to cover the landing party; and notwithstanding a long march that day of twenty miles unda* a burning sun, and the men having tlis fatiguing duty of pulling the guns along k heavy sandbank, and wading up to their waists in water, they performed it with their usual good spirit and zeal ; and about midnight the village and fort were seized and occupied. Arising from the difficulty of getting accurate information, it was quite impossible to ascertain the strength of the garrison; and therefore the fovi was ap- proached with all the caution that would be required with a formidable enemy in the entrenchments. On approaching the fort ROUND THE WORLD. 121 a still and solemn silence prevailed tlirougli- oiit tlie ranks. Not a word was lieard. Tliey crept from the adjacent woods into the bamboo jungle which usually surrounds these Oudh forts. Slow and cautious was the advance. Next the rifle- pits were passed. A fire was found in front of the gate, and a native asleep on a charpoy (native bed). He was seized by the throat and passed to the rear before he was allowed to speak. The inner entrance w^as then found, and being open, the troops passed up the narrow causeway which led to the interior of the fort ; and not until then was the discovery made that it had been abandoned by the rebels. If this had been known previously, the landing might have been effected without any delay, and the combatants would have been saved the disappointment of having no one to encounter. With the sod for a bed, and the trees for a canopy, 122 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL the troops waited for the events of the ensuing day. Early in the morning of the 20th the remainder of the force crossed the river, and every exertion was made to ferry over spare ammunition and other stores with the utmost speed, under the indefatigable energy of Lieutenant Grrant, E.N. And in the forenoon the Sarun field force was aug- mented by a brigade of Gorkhas with six guns. About noon a few musket-shots were heard, which causing an alarm, the assembly was sounded. The men were formed into line, and the gunners stood to their guns. Upon inquiry it was found that the men of the advanced piquet fired upon what they imagined to be a reconnoitring party of the enemy ; but turning out to be a false alarm, the troops, who had been greatly fatigued from marching and want of rest, retired to the shelter of the tope until the afternoon, when they were again ordered under arms. ROUND THE WORLD. 123 About two o'clock, the force, including the Naval Brigade and four guns, with Eoyal Marines, 190 men, 44 Sikhs, and 1300 Gorkhas with six guns, attached to which were European artillery sergeants, left the €amp, and marched six or seven miles to attack the rebels at the village of Phoolpore, three companies of Gorkhas and a few men of the Naval Brigade having been left to protect the baggage. Notwithstanding the fatigue of the previous day, and the absence of rest the previous night, still the men marched cheerfully and willingly to meet the enemy for the second time on the soil of Oudh. With this prospect before them, all fatigue and want of rest w^as forgotten. By the order of Colonel Eowcroft, the line was formed about half a mile beyond our camping-ground : the Eamdhul regiment of Gorkhas was on the left of the line, the Naval Brigade with four guns was in the centre, and the other Gorkhas, with a 124 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL light field-battery of six guns, were on the right. The Gorkhas were commanded by their own regimental officers; but to each regiment there was one or more European officer in military charge, who held a very anomalous and by no means agreeable posi- tion, not being able to give orders, and being obliged often to submit to much inconve- nience from their resistless determination to- have their own wa}^ The line then ad- vanced, a detachment of Eoyal Marines under Lieutenant Vjia, and Sikhs under Lieutenant Burlton, being pushed forward on the right, in skirmishing order, and two com- panies of Gorkhas on the left. Having passed several topes and hamlets without meeting with the insurgents, the line continued advancing as far as the village of Phoolpore ; which being left on our right rear, and coming within range of their guns, a shaip and sudden cannonade from the rebels soon pointed out their position. They were- ROUND THE WORLD. 125 posted, as usual, near and in a wood, with broken ground and some high crops in front, wliile their left rested on the river. The enemy kept up a very heavy fire for some time from four or five guns, which was quickly responded to by the naval artillery under Lieutenant Turnour and by the guns of the Nepalese; but among the Gorkhas no little confusion ensued. It is said to be their custom in action to rally round their guns. This probably arises from the fact that they place more confidence in their long range than in the close quarters required for the use of the bayonet. Without pretend- ing to account for the fact with any degree of accuracy, it is, however, quite certain that in a short time after the commencement of the action few of them were to be seen in the Hue — in fact, they disappeared. Those on the left went over to the right, where the Gorkha Brigadier was commanding; and after the first violence of the fire had a little 126 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL abated, they might be seen returning stealthily to their ranks. The scene among the elephants which carried the spare ammunition might be regarded as amusing, if it had occurred on another less serious occasion. They roared and snorted, blowing with their great pro- boscis, the mahouts, or •drivers, using ever}^ effort to bring back and quiet them. They kicked them behind the ears as they sat astride on their necks, and hammered them violently on the skull with a great iron spike to bring them to a sense of duty; they abused them, calling them insulting epithets, and by turns coaxed them with endearing terms — but all in vain ; two, after a little time, between the influence of alternate abuse and entreaty, became quieted and accustomed to the noise of the cannon, while the third ran off the field, and no exertion could induce him to return. The enemy were supposed to be about ROUND THE WORLD. 127 2000 or 2500, with a few troops of cavalry and five guns, under the command of Gholam Hossein and Ali Hyder, of whom the latter was wounded in the action. After an hour the infantry gave way, and the cavalry were not long in following. The Marines and Sikhs on the right pushed on in skirmishing order, advancing with such rapidity and daring, that upon coming sufiiciently close to the enemy at their guns to be recognised, they cried out, " Grora log," (white people) ! and ran, leaving their guns on the field, which the Marines, under com- mand of Lieutenant Pym, immediately cap- tured, passing by the first, and then coming up with the second, which was aban- doned and burst; the explosion of which, as well as its tumbril, probably gave rise to the idea that it was destroyed by a shot from a gun directed by Jung Bahadoor. They then crept round, concealed by the bank of the river, nearing the enemy unobserved, until 1.28 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL tliey came within a hundred yards ; when a Gorkha officer ran up, violently vociferating that they were firing on the Gorkhas, and using threatening gestures to a Marine who had just discharged his rifle. But, on getting rid of this troublesome messenger. Ser- geant Butler and the Marines rushed at the gun, taking it, it may be said, almost at the point of the bayonet, the enemy sticking tenaciously to their post, the last man not having retired ten yards, when they ran up breathless, and gallantly turning it against the former possessors, fired several rounds of grape on the flying foe. One of the Sikhs instantly struck a light, and the limber supplied a port-fire. The Gorkhas then quickly coming up, laid claim to the credit of capturing the guns which the Marines and Sikhs left behind, and triumphantly paraded them in camp the following day. The Marines by this time got far in advance on the right in the pursuit, well ROUND THE WORLD. 129 supported by tlie detachment of Sikhs, who never held back when there was an enemy in front. The seamen likewise on the left pushed forward, leaving the Gorkha Brigade, with their artillery, in the rear ; while the Eamdhul regiment of Gorkhas, which had, after four months' intercourse, fostered a degree of intimacy with our men, kept up w^ell, and in company with the naval artil- lery and seamen under Captain Sotheby, R.N., pursued the enemy until the shades of evening rendered further pursuit impossible. We then returned to the tope about a mile in advance of the village of Phoolpore, where the Gorkha Brigade, not willing to march back to camp, seven miles distant, settled down to bivouac for the night, lighting their fires and making themselves as happy as the circumstances would allow. The Naval Brigade returned to camp at ten o'clock at night, where the tents were r6ady pitched to receive them. Several of the enemy were 130 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL killed, but the number could not be accu- rately ascertained, while our casualty list was very small. There were only a few of the Europeans wounded, and of the Gorkhas only one was killed, and very few wounded. In addition to those of the enemy found on the field after the action, their comrades were seen to be assiduous in picking up their wounded men, putting them in carts, and carrying them ofi* the field in their flight ; some of them, it was reported, were subsequently found dead on the road. The steadiness and coolness of the seamen under Lieutenant Radcliife, while the fire was hottest, and round shot falling about, and tearing up the ground in every direction, were admirable ; and the only way to account for the small number of casualties, was the rapid advance, by which the enemy lost their range; they finding it to their advantage to play at long balls, while our men found the nearer they got to the enemy the safer they were. R0T7ND THE WORLD. 131 Thus ended the action at Phoolpore, in which, after a contest of an hour, the rebels, who had occupied the right bank of tlie Gogra for some days, in the presence of Jung Bahadoor's army, were overthrown and dispersed. Three guns were taken, and camp equipage was destroyed, and " by tlie skilful dispositions that were made, and the admirable manner in which they were carried out,"* complete success followed, and tlie passage of the river was secured. This was the only action in which I have seen the Gorkhas make a " Kookrie charge." The kookrie is a crooked-bladed knife, vary- ing from twelve to fifteen inches long, and from being sharp at the point, it spteads out towards the centre of the blade, perhaps to two or two-and-a-half inches broad. It is a considerable weight, and with it they who are expert in its use can deal a deadly blow. i * Brigadier Macgregor's despatch. k2 132 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL It is protected by a scabbard, and worn at the side, in the Kamarband, or girdle. They place implicit confidence in its use, and can, it is said, sever the head from the body of an ox with a single blow. And from being the national arms of Nepaul, their greatest chiefs wear them, mounted either with gold or silver, and sometimes splendidly adorned with jewels. When preparing for the charge, the line forms in open order, either two or four deep, and with a fierce yell, brandishing their formidable weapons high in mid air, they rush wildly on. After the first sharp volley was over, and the enemy had retired to a little distance, our line advanced, and the Ramdhul regi- ment was persuaded to try the effect of a charge through some thick crops and a tope where it was possible a few of the enemy might have loitered behind ; but on dashing on, brandishing their kookries, and uttering piercing yells, they approached the wood. ROUND THE WORLD. 133 fired their muskets, and entered, but found the enemy had gone. For two days following the action, the seamen and marines of the Naval Brigade were employed in constructing a bridge of boats; but, on its completion, instead of being permitted to proceed with the Nepa- lese troops to the siege of the capital, they were the first to cross it, making a re- trograde movement into the district of Goruckpore. This naturally produced mucli disappointment among the men, which was not altogether allayed by the assurance that was given that the post of honour was, on this occasion, in the rear, for that 37,000 rebels were reported to be in the vicinity of Fyzabad, while there were not 1500 troops left behind to meet them. If disparity of numbers is calculated to render a post honourable, so great a dispropoiiion has a fair claim to distinction. There was, how- ever, to meet the odds, that "moral force 134 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL which constitutes two-thirds of the strength of armies," augmenting the influence of the few, and magnifying their indomitable courage. Much corresi^ondence had been kept up regarding the destinies of the Naval Brigade. At one time it was intended that it should go to Lucknow, and share the honour of its fall; but, as was justly re- marked, it is impossible for every corps to be in the front, no matter how much they may desire it; some must be left behind, and, in addition to this inevitable necessity, there was another difficulty arising from the inconvenience of parading European troops, especially so small a force, with a large Nepalese army. Their prejudice against the slaying of the ox is very strong ; I have heard, and have every reason to believe it true, that the officers in military charge with Jung's army never had beef on their mess table while in his camp. Their food was confined to fowls and mutton, and even for ROUND THE WORLD. 135 the few days that we were together, disputes arose, notwithstanding the excessive caution invariably used. A serious quarrel was more than once imminent. When only two regiments were with us, there was little difficulty in keeping the peace ; but on the arrival of the Maharajah's army, with his still larger body of camp followers, it became troublesome work. Several frivolous com- plaints were made with reference to the killing of oxen for food for our men, and on one occasion our noble allies cut adrift the oxen which were crossing the river for the force, suspecting that they were intended for food ; and one of them in a fury drew his kookrie in a most threatening manner on one of our men. Consequently, all things considered, it might have been injudicious to have gone with such troublesome allies on a long march. 186 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL CHAPTEE VI. Jung Bahadoor's Durbar — Nepalese Unifonn — March to Kuptaugunge — Character of the Country — The Fort of Belwa — The Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry join our Force — The Attack on Belwa. February 24th. — The Naval Brigade re- crossed the river and encamped on the left bank. In the afternoon the Maharajah Jung Bahadoor held a durbar, or levee, which many of the officers attended. His Excellency's tent was in a small court-yard formed by a wall of canvas (if canvas can receive that name). His reception was most polite, and his manner gracious. His personal appearance was attractive for an Eastern. His features were small, his com- plexion sallow, and his expression shrewd and intelligent. He was attended by his principal officers, who, as well as himself, were richly attired. His costume was plain ROUND THE WORLD. 137 white — not a Parisian, but an Eastern fashion ; and on his head he wore a magni- ficent tiara of diamonds and emeralds of great value. His brothers, who were present, were dressed in gaudy splendour, presenting a striking contrast to the simple magnificence of his own costume; their coats w^ere not only embroidered, but the breast and collar appeared to be a mass of wrought gold. Others seemed to be richly attired according to their rank. One of them wore trousers, not, as is sometimes seen in Europe, with a gold stripe, but entirely covered or interwoven with gold. Their tiaras, with a bird-of paradise plume waving in front, varied in the degree of their magnificence ; but none of them was equal to their chief's. On coming out to meet us after entering the courtyard, each was introduced, and in a truly English style greeted us by shaking hands. On being conveyed to his tent, the 138 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL fashion at his durbar, we were informed, was neither to uncover the head, nor to take off the shoes. The chief sat at the upper end of the tent; and along one side sat his general ofl&cers, while on the side opposite sat the officers who came to make their salaams, and whose plain campaigning uniform could not compete with the splendour of the Nepalese. After having sat for a short time, and among other topics making some inquiries about the Baltic and Black Sea, and the war in the Crimea, with which Jung seemed to be tolerably acquainted, we all rose up to retire. The conversation was of course confined to the senior officers, and those also who could speak Hindostanee ; nor was it of long duration or very varied : the other officers of his court not offer- ing any remark. On our departure the Maharajah escorted us to the door of his enclosed court-yard, and shaking hands, we bade him farewell. It is not at all impro- ROUND THE WORLD. 139 bable that both he and his companions washed their hands after intercourse with the Feringhee allies. Next day, the 25th, the force marched from Grai Glhat, and in three marches arrived at Kuptangunge, which was only two marches from Fyzabad. The first intention was to halt at the village of Bustee, which being in a central position, and only forty -four miles from the town of Goruckpore, relief might be given to that town if attacked. On further consideration it was deemed more desirable to make two marches in advance of this position, that the peaceable might be in- spired with confidence, and the rebelliously disposed with a salutary fear, and thus the district in some degree becoming settled, the hands of the civil authorities might be strengthened. The field force still consisted of the Naval Brigade and two regiments of Gorkhas 500 strong each; but, imfortunately, the 140 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL Ramdlml regiment, whicli had been with us for some months, and upon which some dependence could be placed, was exchanged for one composed of raw recruits which had never seen a shot fired. On the 2nd of March the force marched to Amorha, distant twelve or thirteen miles from Fyzabad, and pitched the camp in an open maidan, or plain. The country here is very much the same as that throughout Goruckpore ; perfectly level, like the surface of a lake. Not a rise is to be seen in any direction, except where a tank has been sunk for the reception of water, and the clay which has been excavated forms an embank- ment of a few feet high. Small villages and hamlets are scattered here and there, at- tached to the house of a Zemindar, which is somewhat superior to the others in structure and size; while topes of mango-trees, -sl quarter or half a mile apart, give an air of luxuriance and greenness in the hot season, ROUND THE WORLD. 141 when, after the crops are cut, the arable land looks brown and barren until the first shower again converts it into verdure and productiveness. In some villages may be seen the house of a Eajah, or Eanee, i.e., the reigning widow of a Eajah, which, from its size, and perhaps from an attempt at bas- tions and earthworks, gives the idea that it contains some articles of value to defend. It is a religious act among the Hindoos to plant a tope, and dig a well. The in- ventor of that superstition acted on the soundest principles of worldly wisdom ; for the former, in the fruit season, yields support to multitiides of the poor, while its foliage gives shelter to travellers from the broiling heat of the sun ; and the latter being the source of productiveness in the irrigation of the fields, are easily sunk in every direc- tion; and the ground being saturated by the deluges that fall during the rains, Avater is procured near the surface in the 142 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL dry season, and is conveyed by little canals over every yard of ground. On the arrival of the field force at Amorha, a messenger was sent to Colonel Eowcroft to say that the fort at Belwa, seven miles further on, was occupied by the enemy; and hearing that they were not numerous, urging him to send a party at once to take it before the garrison was re- inforced. Belwa is only seven or eight miles distant from Tyzabad, which was once the seat of government of Oudh, and still, in importance, is a city, second only to Luck- now. The rebels occupied this city in great force, improving, by order of the Begum, the old fortifications by which it was sur- rounded. After the Nepalese army had taken possession of, and passed through Goruckpore, one of their brigades was or- dered in advance to the village of Belwa, as a sort of corps of observation ; but, by reason of the proximity to Fyzabad, it was found ROUND THE WORLD. 143 necessary to throw up earthworks, and construct an entrenched camp in such an advanced and exposed position, and in the presence of a numerous enemy. Earthworks were immediately thrown up, and a deep ditch was dug all round, under the superin- tendence of a skilful European engineer officer, who no doubt selected the best and most defensible ground ; and in a short time a fort, with a strong and spacious Pucca build- ing in the centre, rose into view. It was occupied by the Grorkhas only a very short time, until Jung's army was on the point of crossing the Grogra. He then sent orders to his Brigadier to march forthwith to join liim. A large quantity of grain and supplies was in the fort at the time, for which there was no means of obtaining carriage in such haste. The Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry were some miles distant, and in six hours could have come to take possession of the fort and supplies, which they could have held until 144 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL reinforcements arrived; but Jung's orders were urgent — there was not sufficient time to destroy the entrenchments — his officers have too great a regard for their heads to make any dehiy in obeying his orders, and the European officers in military charge do not seem to have had much influence in making any alteration in the movement. Finally, the camp was struck; the works were left intact; they marched to join Jung : and scarcely had it been evacuated two hours, when a body of the rebels, who had all along been hovering about like vultures round a carcase, entered into undisputed possession of the fort and grain. The earthworks were strengthened, four guns were planted in position on the bastions, and on the approach of the cavalry, the first intimation of the presence of an enemy was a shot from one of their guns. This information being communicated as the force arrived on the camping ground at ROUND THE WORLD. 145 Amorha, and the number of the enemy being reported only 200, the best course to pursue seemed to be an immediate attack before reinforcements could arrive to strengthen the garrison. One hundred and sixty-eight men of the Naval Brigade, mth four guns, and 24-pounder rockets, thirty-five Sikhs, and a regiment of Grorkhas, were ordered by Colonel Eowcroft to proceed in the after- noon to Belwa, where they were joined by the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, 250 strong. Then three hearty cheers were raised by the new comrades, which were quickly, and with the best of good will, responded to by the jolly tars, who now, for the first time since their military career in India commenced, fell in with troops of their own country and colour. Right well did they know how to appreciate their presence and admire their bravery; and with the best of good will were they encamped together, and in many an action did they meet the enemy side by L 146 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL side during two arduous and trying cam- paigns. After the long march of the morning, most of the men of the Naval Brigade got a lift on elephants, and by four o'clock in the afternoon were within a mile of Belwa. A plan of the fort had not been left with the colonel commanding our force, and conse- quently the nature of the entrenchment and ground was unknown. The number of our Europeans being small, considerable caution and circumspection was required, as any rash or unsuccessful attack, which should place many of our men liors de combat might be the means of paralysing our right arm at a time when there was not a European soldier within a hundred miles of us. On nearing Belwa the day was drawing to a close, affording but little hope for active opera- tions. Eive o'clock struck before our guns opened fire. It was reconnoitred, and found much stronger than what had been repre- ROUND THE WORLD. 147 seiited ; while the defenders turned out to be much more numerous than had been reported. The naval guns threw in shell with great precision for some time ; but being only 12- pounder howitzers it would be impossible to make a breach in earthworks with that weight of metal. It was now becoming dark, and to storm it with so small a num- ber of Europeans might result in weakening the only reliable force, especially as our allies did not seem disposed to take part in such an enterprise. Darkness coming on, the force was obliged to retire, and took up their quarters that night in the camp of their new companions in arms, the Bengal Yeoman Cavalry. Next morning, in com- pany with this valiant corps of volunteers, we returned to the camp at Amorlia to await the tide of events. That night and the following day the rebels received large reinforcements. Fy- zabad was emptied of them. They flowed in l2 148 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL from Nawabgunge, Q-ondah, and the ad- joining districts. They flocked to the green standard, fortunately without having any very clear idea who waved it, or any spirit of cohesion to cement them together in a common cause. ROUND THE WORLD. 149 CHAPTER VII. The Country disaffected — Perilous Position of the Field Force — Destruction of a Village by Elephants — Battle of Amorha — Disparity of Numbers — Eout of the Enemy — Goruckpore saved — Sikhs' looting Propensity. On the 4tli of March authentic reports were brought in of the many thousands that were gathering, and of fourteen guns that were ready for action. Their leaders interpreted the return from Belwa to the camp on the 2nd, not only as a retreat but as a defeat, and, like a drowning man catching at a straw, made the best use of it to raise the hopes of the supporters of a bad cause, and inspire among the Sepais and disaffected visions of future triumph. It required little to excite them to action, and they seldom seemed to be downcast after a defeat. They took it quite as a matter of course, and were 150 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL ready for another attempt a few days after- wards notwithstanding the certainty of a similar result. But on this occasion they rejoiced in a fine chance. They knew well that our entire force, including sick, did not amount to more than 1500; and there- fore with more confidence they assembled their hosts to the battle. This part of the country was utterly dis- affected. It was visible in the look and demeanour of every villager; they were nearly all tinged with rebellion, and the reward that was held out to our force for not obtaining permission to march to the scene of action in the front at Lucknow, on the ground that the rear would be the post €?f honour, that there the rebels would be numerous, seemed now on the point of being realized. Considering the multitudes that could be collected from the adjacent frontier of Oudh aad the paueity of the Sarun Field Farce, ROUND THE WORLD. 151 there was much peril in this isolated posi- tion. There was not a European soldier within a hundred miles of us or more, and if a rising had been effected in our rear, and the ammunition and supplies which were on the road had been cut off, the force would not have been in an enviable position ; but by excellent arrangements these contin- gencies were provided for and guarded against. A rifle-pit was dug round the camp, which had been pitched in an open plain. A thick jungle in our front was cut down, and a village cleared away, the walls of which were knocked down by a dozen of elephants, who expedi- tiously performed the work of demolition. The obedience and docility of these animals is surprising. The walls of the houses were two or two and a half feet thick, and built of strong, tenacious, and compact mud. At the bidding of the mahout the elephant would push it with his ponderous forehead. 152 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL throwing the weight of his body into the shove. Sometimes, if this failed, he would open his wide mouth and bite the top of the wall and pull down loosened and de- tached pieces with his trunk, and then, with the wall thus mutilated and weakened, he would try the pressure of his skull again, levelling a village with marvellous rapidity. These and other arrangements being made, we waited the advance of the enemy. The camp was struck at two o'clock next morning, the 5tli; the tents were packed and the baggage-carts were loaded, so as to put all the impedimenta into as small a space as possible, for protection in a neighbouring village, and that as few troops as possible might be required for a guard, lest the main body should be weakened. The rebels' spies informed them that we were in full retreat, and on hearing tidings so flattering to their hopes, their courage rose several degrees, and prepared for a ROUND THE WORLD. 153 sj)eedy pursuit. About seven o'clock, after a wearisome and tedious delay, the troops having been under arms for five hours, and at work nearly all night, a report was brought in by the corindar of a Eanee who resided about a mile from our camp, that the enemy was going to attack Mhaun Sing, that he had just returned from their camp at Belwa, and that they had no intention of coming down on us that day. A report coming from so respectable an authority as the Banee's head man, gained implicit cre- dence, and orders were issued to repitch the camp, which were on the point of being carried out, when another report came in of a contradictory character. A patrol of cavalry was sent out to reconnoitre, and returning with tidings that the enemy was advancing. Colonel Eowcroft doubled the strength of the patrol, and ordered the officer in command to obtain further infor- mation. All hands stood to their arms. 154 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL The force moved out of camp about seven o'clock, and having taken up a position about half a mile to the west of the village of Amorlia, formed line . The Naval Brigade and four guns were in the centre across the road, under the command of Captain Sotheby, E.N. The two Gorkha regiments were on the right and left of the Naval Brigade, in military charge of Captains Brooks, Berkley, and Macgregor. The Sikh detachment under Lieutenant Burlton, was on the left of the Gorkhas ; and the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, one squadron on the right of the line under Captain Chapman, and the other on the left under Major E/ichardson, covering both flanks. It was at first conjectured that the report might have its origin from a party of the enemy being sent out to plunder the neigh- bouring villages ; but soon their bugle-calls were heard, first sounding the halt and then the advance, which put it beyond all doubt ROUND THE WORLD. 155 that they were approaching. Our line re- mained steady in position, anxiously await- ing the moment when the enemy should come within range. Tlieir bugle-calls were heard nearer and nearer, and they soon showed themselves in great force. They deployed into line, extending right and left to a great distance, probably a mile or more each way, overlapping our flanks, and threatening to overwhelm our small force. They pushed forward a cloud of skirmishers ; there was no lack of drilled troops; they came on in admirable order, as if confident of success. Looking on these advancing masses from the rear of the line, our troops appeared a handful of men compared with this ap-^ proaching wave crested with bayonets. The naval guns under Lieutenant Tur- nour opened fire from the centre, and the enemy with ten guns commenced a heavy and furious cannonade on our line. This was kept up obstinately on both sides for 156 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL some time. The skirmishers were thrown out, and the order was given, " The line will advance ;" an order that was never rescinded, and that was promptly carried out, until the whole force was driven off the field. Their line was so extended, that when their centre was driven back they seemed, on their ex- treme right, to be quite unconscious of the fact, and marched down deliberately and leisurely towards our camp. This move- ment being observed, Colonel Kowcroft sent orders to Major Eichardson, commanding the left squadron, to detach a troop, or, if necessary, with the squadron, to charge and clear out the enemy. This was gallantly and effectually carried out by Major Eichardson, well supported by Captain Brooks of the 1st Light Cavalry, with two companies of Grorkhas. The cavalry, in their impetuosity, dashed forward at a hand- gallop, riding through a Jheel (a shallow lake, or sheet of water), no impediment retarding ROUND THE WORLD. 157 their advance or assuaging tlieir ardour. They soon came upon the enemy, driving them back, cutting up and killing a number of them, and dispersing them thoroughly. Several horses were shot or wounded, but for- tunately no trooper received any serious in- jury, some having received slight wounds or a hair-breadth escape. Many a hand-to-hand light might be described, when a Sepai, de- spairing of his chance of escape, turned round, stood his ground, and fought fiercely with his mounted antagonist, using either his bayonet or butt-end of his musket, as best suited his taste ; and sometimes he would make a cut at the horses' legs with his tulwar as he passed, which was a favourite trick with those who were unable to make a defence. After the first fierce cannonade was over, the roar of the artillery began to subside. They then seemed to consider, they then halted — then wavered. It is fatal to delay under such circumstances ; when it comes to 158 THE CRUISE OE THE PEARL that, a dash is sure to gain the day. From the first moment they were observed to waver, no time was to be lost ; a rapid and decisive blow was to be struck then or never, if complete success was to be ensured. Colonel Eowcroft . immediately ordered a party of Naval Eiflemen to reinforce the Eoyal Marine skirmishers, while he ordered Captain Chapman with his squadron to advance, inclining to the right, and charge the enemy's Sowars and infantry : at the same time orders were sent to the Gorucknath regiment of Gorkhas to ad- vance at the charge. All this time the first order issued was attended to by the Naval Brigade, which continued advancing upon the multitudes in front, and never halted to draw breath except when they came within easy range for a discharge of grape. Then they unlimbered the guns, fired as many rounds as the retreating mul- titude would wait to receive ; then limber- ROUND THE WORLD. 169 ing up, would gallop the guns more like horse than foot artillery, and when within range, would again unlimher and discharge as many rounds as the time admitted; limbered up and galloped on, chasing them with a speed, and working their guns with an activity, truly surprising. Among the number of guns that were taken, one, from its proximity to the enemy, afforded a peculiar opportunity to be turned against themselves. Lieutenant Grant, Mr. Shearman the engineer, a seaman named Jesse Ward, another seaman, and Lord Charles Scott, midshipman, rushed forward, captured the gun, and loaded it from the contents of its own limber ; but having no portfire, a rifle was discharged with the muzzle to the vent, which answered the purpose, giving the enemy the benefit of grape out of their own piece of ordnance. Captain Chapman, in the meantime, with his squadron made a most gallant charge. 160 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL routing tlie left wing, and scattering the multitude. The enemy now no longer hesitated ; their centre was driven back, and both mngs shaken; the Sowars (Native Cavalry) were in rapid retreat, and the infantry soon followed. The combined movement of the troops, the formidable charge of the cavalry, the steady advance of the Naval Brigade, soon shattered the whole line of the enemy. They abandoned eight guns, which were left un spiked, seven were taken on the field, one could not be found. They varied in size from an 18 -pounder to a 9 -pounder, 6 -pounders, and guns of smaller calibre, with gun-carriages and seven limbers complete, well stored with ammunition, and drawn by bullocks, which were also left on the field, as well as a cart with 25,000 musket-balls. The pursuit now commenced. For six miles the rebels were driven from tope to tope, and from village to village. Wherever ROUND THE WORLD. 161 they took shelter, from thence they were speedily expelled, until our horses and men, completely worn out with fatigue, and exhausted with heat, were obliged to halt. Once they made a short stand, keeping up a fire from the only two guns that they succeeded in carrying ofi*, and discharging, as they did from the commencement of the engagement, a perfect hailstorm of musket-^ halls. Here we lost an ofiicer of the Naval Brigade, Mr. Powler, and one Gorkha, a private ; but the efiective fire of the guns, the steady advance of the line, and the right squadron moving forward, threatening another charge, soon drove them out of sight* Considering the small number of Euro- pean troops* which were available to meet such an overwhelming force, no doubt our * Gorkhas, 850 j Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, 200 ; marines, 32 ; naval column, 140 j 4 naval guns ; 39 Sikhs. Total, 1261. 162 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL position was that of considerable danger; but, as British seamen and soldiers always do, they faced it with a daring and deter- mination adequate to dispel the danger ; they gallantly dashed forward, amidst showers of baU, and after pushing forward two or three miles farther, they began to suffer so much from fatigue and heat, that they were obliged to halt. Having been up nearly the whole previous night, and during the action marching through heavy ground and thick cultivation, they halted for a short time to rest, and then returned to the camp. The action commenced at half-past eight in the morning, and was terminated at half- past twelve. In fotir hours the enemy, who were reported to be 4000 Sepais, 10,000 irregular troops, 300 Sowars, and ten guns, were completely defeated and routed by 1261 men and four guns, with a severe loss, in killed and wounded, of about 500. ROUND THE WORLD. 163 The Sepais were of the 1st, 10th, 53rd, and 56th Eegiments of Native Infantry, 5th Regiment Grwalior Contingent, and 2nd Oudh Police Force. The Nazim Mahomed Hussein, and the Eajahs of Gondah and Churdah, and other chiefs, were present on elephants, but were said to have left early in the action. On the return of the force it was found that the few men who could be Spared to guard the captured guns, had brought them into camp; and, to our no small satisfaction, we saw them safely parced, and among the spoils were limbers in good serviceable condition, which formerly were the property of the Honourable East India Company. Thus the teeth of the tiger were drawn for that time, as the natives of India without guns venture to do but little, the noise of their cannon considerably raising their courage. In half an hour the camp was repitched, and the troops got rest and M 2 164 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL refresliineiit. By striking tlie tents and packing the baggage, the eyes of the rebels were completely blinded. Their spies told them we were retreating; and thus, being prepared for a pursuit and a speedy victory, they came on full of confidence, until, to their no small surprise and chagrinj never expecting to see so small a force showing so bold a front, they found a little phalanx that never gave way ready to receive them. It was marvellous to see so great a host chased away as if panic-stricken by the audacity of such a handful, facing about when they expected to see them turn right about face, and marching away. Some of the seamen would jocularly say to their comrades, as they were " bolting" off, " What are these rascals bolting away for ? If they would only come on with sticks, they must have beat us." But they were deficient in true patriotism, they were deficient in es^iit de corps, and their foul deeds deprived them of the favour of ROUND THE WORLD, 165 the Euler of armies. An educated Hindoo, Y/ho was too wise and far-seeing to sympa- thize with the Sepais, remarked to me that " God fought for us, and would fight for us again ;" and his providence and intervention in our favour was duly acknowledged next morning, when, at a parade of the troops, thanksgivings were offered to the " Giver of all victories" for this great and signal suc- cess, and his providential care in permitting so little loss to be sustained on our side compared with that of the enemy. Of the Naval Brigade we had to lament the loss of one officer killed ; fourteen or fifteen men were wounded; of the Gorkhas, one was killed, and several were wounded; the ca- valry had two horses killed, and several were wounded; several troopers also were wounded, but none were killed ; many, as may easily be imagined, had narrow escapes. The naval guns would naturally be a mark for the enemy to shoot at ; and therefore would 166 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL have a fair sliare of their attention. E very- gun or limber was struck, once or oftener, by grape or round shot, but fortunately none were disabled. Some of the Jacks, seeing the balls falling about, striking their guns or their limbers without wounding a man, said, in their own phraseology, acknowledging a superhuman Providence, " Well, Bill, this almost makes me super- stitious." The shot fell fast and thick, ricochetting along the ground in every direction. A heavy fire of musketry was constantly kept up ; but fortunately the failing of the Sepais in firing too high was again our safety. It was soon found that the nearer to the enemy, the greater was the security, the balls passing clear over the heads of the troops in the line, their whiz being the only inconvenience. Notwith- standing, it was evident, from the manner in which they retreated, that they were trained soldiers. This was not altosrether ROUND THE WORLD. 167 proved by their uniform, however, which was rather "the worse for the wear." Some of them had cross-belts and red jackets, muskets, and bayonets ; some had the uni- form jacket without the trousers, and some the trousers without the jacket; some wore the jacket with the regulation musket, and some were reduced to the necessity of using native arms and dis- pense with uniform altogether. In fact, their tailors evidently did not supply them with the latest military cut. Taking into consideration the compara- tive numbers, this battle was singularly successful, and may justly be regarded as having saved the rich fertile plains "of Goruckpore from a second inundation"* of rapacious harpies, who, no doubt, would have been aided by numerous local Baboos and Zemindars, if they had succeeded in their plans. * Brigadier Kowcroft's despatch. 168 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARI^ By the excellent arrangements that were made the numbers of our men appeared to be greater than they really were ; so that when their leaders urged the Sepais to try the fortune of war again, they replied that they had been deceived already by being told that the European troops were only 400, while in the field they met the " Gora log" on the right flank, on the left flank, in the centre, and everywhere ; thus paying a compliment to the activity with which our force moved, magnifying their numbers, and giving them a ubiquitous ap- pearance. On their return to Fyzabad their friends laughed at them for being beaten by so small a force, and they were shamed into making promises (as we learned from the reports of the spies) to retrieve their cha- racter — promises which were never fulfilled ; and gave out that they had bound them- selves by an oath to attack the Teringhees and not to run away. They were resolved, ROUND THE WORLD. 169 however, to make some one suffer for the defeat, and consequently they hung their spy who told them that our force was retiring, and next day, the spy that told us a similar story about them, met a similar fate. He was convicted of a peculiarly aggravated offence : he was a corindar in the employ- ment of a Eanee, who, living close to our camp, was professedly on friendly terms with our Government; he brought information that he had just come from the enemy's camp, and that they had not the least in^ tention of attacking us that day, but were going in an opposite direction to punish Maun Sing. And this intelligence he con- veyed in order to put us off our guard at the very hour that he knew they were marching down towards our camp. He was accordingly convicted, and paid the penalty with death, which he met with perfect indifference, adjusting the noose round his neck with his own hands, and leaping 170 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL from the back of the elephant on which he had been conveyed to the place of execution* Among the Grorkhas who were wounded, one was disabled for life by the loss of his leg ; and becoming unfit for service, he was at once struck off the rolls of his regiment without receiving pay or pension. No care was bestowed on him, and he would have been left houseless and unable to earn a livelihood in a country far from his home, if a subscription had not been raised for him in camp to defray his expenses to Nepaul, and supply him with food by the way. It is not a matter of surprise when men are compelled to serve, and being wounded or disabled, are cast off by the Government of their country, that they should shun the risk which accompanies bravery, and keep out of harm's way as much as they can. And this failing seemed to attach as much to their officers as to their men ; the higher they rise in rank being supposed to do the ROUND THE WORLD, 171 least ; exertion, wliich is incompatible with the dignity of the senior, being confined to the junior. The detachment of Sikhs were as forward as usual, but their natural instinct for plunder is surprisingly strong. At Lucknow they are reputed to have got the lion's share. They seemed to have been a privileged class in that way ; at any rate, their great success kept them in a good humour, and no doubt rendered them well satisfied with our service. There are numerous stories about our men picking up some article of trifling value in many places which have been taken, perhaps emerging from a house with a clock under his arm, or a few silk handkerchiefs, or a brass lota ; while the Sikhs, looking on perfectly regardless would wait until they had finished, and then go systematically to work in quest of rupees and gold mohurs. They knew the native's habit of hiding treasure, either built up in a wall or buried under 173 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARI4 the floor; and by sprinkling water about, discovered tbe spot where it dried up the quickest, and then speedily disentombed cash and other valuables. On the fifth, as they were in pursuit of the fugitive rebels, some of them could not resist their favourite propensity. It is not sanctioned by the service, but it is a difficult matter to stop it. One was seen with a small bundle on his back as he marched through the high standing crops. By degrees it got bigger and bigger. He would lay it down now and again, fire off his musket, and renew his load. At last he got a lump on his back like a camel. The protuberance that was small in the beginning, by means of the articles accumulated in the route, had swollen to a considerable bulk, like an evil rumour, which increases in size every time it is rehearsed. Never until now had the Naval Artil- lery an opportunity of being thoroughly ROUND THE WORLD. 173 equipped. Limbers and spare ammiuiition- wagons being captured in abundance, a selection might be made to meet the re- quirements of the battery. By the inces- sant industry of Mr. Burton, the ship's car- penter, the battery which took the field in the first action, labouring under the disadvantages of a very inefficient equipment, soon pre- sented the appearance of one efficient for any service. The Gorkhas seemed quite proud of their achievements in the action, and said that the Brigadier had a lucky star, and that when they went into action with him, victory was the sure result, that their loss was trifling, and their casualties few. During the time these two regiments were brigaded with the " Pearl's" men they were on excellent terms, and Brigadier Eow- croft, when acknowledging their services, returned thanks at the same time to Captain Sotheby, the officers and men, " who, with 174 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL their guns," he said, " were his mainstay in the action, and most valuable to him at all times ;" a compliment which was again repeated by the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Colin Campbell, who, in his letter of thanks, noticed more particularly the " gallantry of the Bengal Yeomanry Calvary, and the bravery and steadiness of the Naval Brigade." ROVNB THE WOELD. 175 CHAPTEE VIII. Constant Alarms — A Fort constructed — The Kebels Reinforced— Arrival of the left Wing of H.M. 1 3th Light Infantry — The Hot Season — Camp Routine — Action near Tilga — Charge of the Bengal Yeo- manry Cavalry — The Westerly Winds. For several days after the combat, tlie force was constantly on the alert, expecting to be attacked again. On the following Thursday and Tuesday, being regarded by them as " lucky days," they were more espe- cially expected. The Gorkhas also have their "lucky days." On the 5th instant they were confident of success, even those on the sick list strained a point to bear arms. Their lucky days, however, passed away, and no Sepais appeared. Probably if this action had been less successful, or if fewer guns had been captured, they might have tried it again. 176 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL It was well known to the experienced East India officers that a bold front was the best security for success ; and being con- vinced of the danger of the slightest appear- ance of weakness, the trench which had been dug round our camp was filled up, and the camp was pitched in the open plain. How- ever, it was thought advisable to construct a small fort, in which the sick, the spare ammunition, and the baggage might be safely lodged, and requiring only a small guard, the greater part of the force might be free to take the field. A fort was constructed taking in a small village and the Theseel, which being a strong brick building, made an excellent hospital. On the bastions three of the guns taken from the enemy on the 5th were mounted, render- ing it perfectly secure, with a small guard, in the temporary absence of the force. Their threats were repeated from week to week, more especially on their lucky ROUND THE WORLD. 177 days. The faeckir, or priest, would urge them to an encounter, and the troops were con- tinually harassed by false alarms, which were as vexatious as a real attack, causing them to be kept out under arms in the sun half the day. Sometimes from an early hour in the morning they would be ordered to stand to ^their arms, the tents and bag- gage being packed and lodged in the fort ; and forming line in front of the camping ground, they would await an enemy who never appeared. At last, becoming accus- tomed to these reports, the striking of tents and the packing of baggage were dispensed with ; but the men would return from the field in a bad humour at the Sepais not giving them a chance of exchanging a few shots. The country in our rear was tranquil ; fortunately for us, they were void of enter- prise. A few thousands might have been detached from the main body, and making a circuit to our rear, have aroused the N 178 THE CRUISE or THE PEARL country into turbulence and confusion ; but luckily tlie rebels managed with singular sagacity to collect a large army without pro- curing a general, and entertained a disposi- tion to do much more mischief than they knew how to carry out. It was like a body without a head, and having no principle of cohesion, would naturally fall to pieces under a severe blow. They had, however, wonder- ful vitality, which did not arise from any settled Grovernment, but from being like the troubled sea that cannot rest. Beat them in twenty fights, and the shattered carcase of an army would again reappear, the pieces being collected together, and, like a ghost or dissolving view, would vanish at the first advance of our troops. After two or three engagements, in which they were well beaten, it became a matter of certainty in every subsequent encounter that they would run, and, therefore, the chief object was how to surprise and catch them. ROUND THE WORLD. 179 The false alarms continued until the end of April, with two exceptions, when the enemy made their appearance. But it may- be asked why the field force remained quiet so long within seven miles of their entrench- ments without making some efibrts to expel them ? This is answered by the fact that our guns, being only 12-pounder howitzers, were not adapted to make a breach in a mud fort; and, secondly, there was a general order that forts should not be attacked without having guns of heavier metal. The ensign was no sooner unfurled in Lucknow than regiments of fugitives flocked to the standard of the chiefs at Fyzabad, bringing with them cavalry and guns. Por some time they hovered around our camp, but evidently reluctant to come to close quarters. The left wing of H.M.'s 13th Light ! Infantry, 300 strong, under Major Cox, joined our force on the 26th of March, and one Gorkha regiment was sent n2 180 THE CRUISE or THE PEARL to Goruckpore. Thus reinforced, the bri- gade, though numerically weaker, taking into consideration the value of European troops and Enfield rifles, was virtually stronger. The weather was now becoming exceed- ingly hot and oppressive, the sun striking fiercely through the tents. The usual routine of camp-life begun to assume a dull chronic form, and was remarkable only for its sameness. At daybreak the reveillee sounded, a general rubbing of eyes and movement of languid limbs ensued, then the assembly sounded, and all hands appeared on the parade-ground in front of the camp. After parade came daily prayers, for the men of the Naval Brigade, which lasted about ten minutes. This custom not being unusual on board a " man-of-war," was con- tinued throughout the campaign. Ball practice or light-infantry drill for an hour or more succeeded, until the sun gave con- ROUND THE WORLD. 181 vincing proofs that the men should keep close to their tents during the fiery heat of the day. Nearly all hands began to employ native punca wallas to fan them, and keep the flies at a respectable distance, as well as kitmutgars to wait on them at table; in fact. Jack was a gentleman, " every inch of him." In order to render our abodes somewhat cooler, the soil under our tents was dug out, and a pit was excavated, three or four feet deep, the superfluous soil being manufac- tured into a mud wall ; and these pits, resembling a sort of mausoleum for the living, although slightly damp, possessed the advantage of a temperature a few degrees cooler. It would be difficult to say how valuable time was now spent. Sleep was probably the most general and innoxious amuse- ment. Books were a rare commodity. Most of those which were brought up 182 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL country having disappeared off the face of the earth ; and newspapers not being nnme- Tons among the men, were regarded as a delicacy. Meal hours were tolerably regular, except when an alarm produced a change in the arrangements. Shortly after the dawn of day, a cup of tea and piece of toast, brought in by the kitmutgar, was presented to the recumbent Sahib with one eye shut, and the other scarcely open, who, overcome with heat and the fatigue of having nothing to do, would mechanically put forth his hand and take hold of the viands, which are called " chota hazri," i.e., little breakfast. Having gone through the duties of the morning, if he should be prone to great exertion, he would take a short walk, or, mounting his horse, would ride for an hour, until common prudence com- pelled him to take shelter; and then the operations of the day commence. After the toilet is made (with reference to which ROUND THE WORLD. 183 campaigners are not very particular), break- fast, or " burra hazri," is served up, at hours varying from nine o'clock until eleven or twelve o'clock ; the former hour best suiting the demands of a brisk ride on horseback, while the latter would suit those whose exer- tions were not so violent, and who indulge in the more easy kind of horizontal exercise, in the shape of a stretch on a charpoy. After breakfast a serious diflS.culty arises how to pass the day. To go outside the tent is to be grilled ; to remain inside, is to be baked. A newspaper arrives by post, which meets with its quantum of abuse for telling nothing new ; and if it does contain anything out of the common, it is not believed — it is read, it is abused for its emptiness, it is thrown down, and the worn- out reader falls back exhausted on his couch ; perhaps he sleeps, perhaps he only shuts his eyes, trying to lull himself into the belief that he is asleep, until exhausted 184 THE CUUISE OF THE PEARL nature calls again for some support. After the lapse of a few hours, tiffin is announced, and after that there is a general relapse into the former state of temporary inactivity, until the long shadows from the trees are the harbingers of a temperature reduced jfrom 108° to 90° or 95°. Then, recovering &om the fatigue of the day, one would mount his horse for a ride, another would walk a mile, or perhaps two. When puncas could not be rigged up in the tents, a native with a huge fan might be seen looking sleek and shining, frightening away the hosts of flies, the plague of which was very great, and producing a breath of artificial air. The attentive punca walla looking as if he needed a cooling himself as much as the Sahib ; with this difierence, that his wardrobe consisted of only a yard or two of calico, the heat of which gave but little inconvenience. Darkness having decidedly set in, dinner is announced by the faithful kitmutgar, BOUND THE WORLD. 185 who coming up with his two hands closed together, and raised in a supplicatory posture, says "kana tayar, hai," dinner is ready. This heing concluded, it is followed by tea or coffee, pipes or cigars, winding up with materiel of a little stronger nature. After all the affairs of the day are duly discussed — after it is decided that all the rumours of the enemy's attack on the ensuing day is false — after the spies are all voted to be liars — after some argument is warmly kept up by two or more contending belligerents — and after both parties have succeeded in convincing themselves that his opponent is wrong, and that he himself is in the right, — they retire quite satisfied, and turn in for the night. And thus the time is passed until the return of another day brings with it similar cares ; and the atten- tive bearer* approaches respectfaUy, often lending his aid, by holding the hand of his * A valet. 186 THE CRUISE OP THE PEARL Sahib, and raising him up from a reclining, to a sitting posture, and, as if to relieve him of all possible exertion, the faithful slave ("gulam"), as the bearer humbly styles himself, having lighted the pipe of his master, would carefully place it in his mouth, and thus relieve him of the trying exertion of lifting his hand for the purpose. It is difficult for any one who has not experienced it, to conceive the ennui and irksomeness that takes possession of men who pass the hot season in tents in India. The excessive heat, the close confinement to the cotton hut, the difficulty of getting books in camp during these troublous times ; the proximity of the enemy, which pre- vented the possibility of making excursions to a distance, or riding further from camp than a mile or two ; the hot winds, which carried clouds of broiling dust; the swarm of flies which crawl about, being too lazy to use their wings except when forcibly ROUND THE WORLD. 187 compelled, add to the inconvenience and monotony of a tent life at this season of the year. On the 2nd of April information was received that the rebels at Belwa had been reinforced by 1500 men, and a horsed battery (four 9-pounders, and two 24- pounder howitzers). An attack being pro- bable, there was a sharp look out, and cavalry patrols went reconnoitring. A villager gave information regarding their movements, and among other things he mentioned that, having gathered in all his grain, the produce of his land, the rebels not only took possession of it, but compelled him to bring it to their camp, and then, giving liim a beating as a recompense, told him to come next morning if he wanted any more pay. In this way the rebels obtained from their countrymen the sinews of war. Several thousand of the Lucknow Sepais 188 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL having augmented the number of the insur- gents about Fyzabad, one of their chiefs whom our force met in many an encounter, Mahomed Hossein, tried to pursuade them to join his standard. To whom they replied that they had had fighting enough with the Enghsh abeady, and dispersed. It was reported that he offered them tliree months pay if they would beat our force out of the district ; but they were unwilling to make the agreement except the pay was given beforehand. Information was also given that some others took him into custody for a week, on account of the arrears that were due; and that subsequently he did not trust himself to their tender mercies, but encamped among his own followers. At this time sanguine hopes were enter- tained that another battery of artillery and more troops would be sent to relieve the Naval Brigade and enable them to ROUND THE WORLD, 189 return to the ship ; but the rebels beleaguer- ing Azimghur, detained the troops that were expected to advance into Groruckpore, and thus we were destined to continue in this out-of-the-way corner of the country, isolated from all the rest of the army. April 17th. — A villager who probably got tired of having his grain looted, brought intelligence that a strong party of insurgents had entered a village not more than three and a half miles from our camp. A cavalry patrol was sent out to reconnoitre, and soon returned, corroborating the report. A de- tachment was immediately ordered under arms, 100 of the 13th Light Infantry, Captain Chapman's squadron of the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, and 200 Gorkhas under the command of Major Cox, and 100 men and two guns of the Naval Brigade, under the command of Captain Sotheby, E.N., left the camp about nine o'clock, a.m., and came up with the rebels near the village of Tilga. 190 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL The cavalry, by making a circuit to tlieir rear, took them by surprise, and dis- covered that their numbers were more than what was represented, having received rein- forcements from Belwa, and four guns. The cavalry went sufficiently close to occupy their attention until the infantry and guns arrived. By this time they numbered about 2000 Sepais, besides 1000 Budmashes, a few Sowars, and four guns. Shot and shell were soon sent among them ; but the detachment was not sufficiently strong to drive them out of the village. A message was sent to Brigadier Eowcroft for more troops ; and in the meantime Major Cox, well knowing the character of John Pandy, managed to draw them out of their hiding-place by a ma- noeuvre which soon had the desired effect. The detachment feigned a retreat ; they imagining that the troops were running away, came out yelling and bellowing as if to inflate each other's courage, and seemed ROUND THE WORLD. 191 disposed to make a desperate effort to drive our party ba^jk to camp. But when once out from under cover, the detachment halted, and gave them such a warm reception with rifles and shell, that they soon found them- selves safer behind mud walls. The Eajah of Gondah's pundit* here lost his life. On seeing the detachment retire, he discovered that it was one of their " lucky days." He came out of the village, urging the rebels on, and telling them that his predictions were now about to be fulfilled. "While thus trpng to encourage his people, a stray shot cut him oif in the midst of his exhortations, and showed the Eajah the value of his pre- dictions. Having kept this numerous body of rebels at bay for upwards of an hour, Brigadier Eowcroft came out with the rest of the force, and making a detour of a mile and a half to the right, turned the left flank of the enemy. On perceiving the movement, * A wise man, or a sort of soothsayer. 192 THE CRUISE 0¥ THE PEARL fearing lest their retreat sIlouM be cut off, and putting more confidence in the activity of their legs than the precision of their fire, the rebels suddenly retreated, and were pursued by the cavalry. But, in passing by a village, Major Eichardson, with a troop of Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, observed about 300 of the enemy, with one gun, collected under the cover of the houses. The contents of the gun and a volley of musketry were discharged at them ; giving the order to charge, he bore down at a gallop, captured the gun, and scattered the rebels. Each Sepai defended himself as best he could, knowing there was no quarter, and that not his days only, but his minutes were numbered ; and therefore resolved to sell his life as dearly as he could, and do his utmost to destroy at least one Feringhee. One would bend on one knee and meet the charge with his bayonet; another would reserve the contents of his musket until the trooper was almost suffi- ROUND THE WORLD. 193 ciently close to the muzzle that the flash could set his clothes on fire ; another would lie down and make a cut at the legs of the horses as they passed ; in fact, they stood as well as despair could make them stand, Eifty or sixty of the rebels were cut down, and the nature of the affair may be guessed from the fact that, out of fifty-four, which was the number of the troop, fifteen or six- teen w^ere either killed or w^ounded. Five horses were killed, ^ye were missing, and seven wounded. Mr. Troup, a cornet, and Brown, a trooper, were killed on the spot ; and the Adjutant, Mr. Bridgman, was dan- gerously wounded ; and several others were severely wounded. One gun was taken, and the wheel of another was said to have been destroyed by a shell; but they managed to hide it in a nullah until next morning, when it was conveyed away. The rebels were under the command of a corundar, a sort of premier, of the Eajah of Gondali. o 194 THE CRUISE OP THE PEARL They acknowledged to liave lost 200 in killed and wounded — upwards of 80 were known to have been killed. Among the latter was a Sepai who had a few w^eeks before killed a trooper of the Bengal Yeo- manry Cavahy with his own sword. He had been taken prisoner by the trooper, and while bringing him into camp, the Sepai made a grasp at his sword and despatched him ; now he w^as in turn killed, and the sword recovered on the field. After this action, the little remaining courage of the Sepais cooled down. They made their approaches with marked caution and circumspection. No doubt, in this affair, their chief object was loot. Their looting party bringing out our first detachment, and then the enemy being reinforced, brought ©ut the remainder of the troops, and a general action was the result. The Naval Brigade under Captain Sotheby, and the infantry ROUND THE WORLD. 195 under Major Cox, attacking tliem in front, when the flank movement under Brigadier Rowcroft finally obliged them to retire. It was a most unsatisfactory day for an action; the westerly winds which prevail in some parts of India becoming heated by passing over many hundreds of miles of roasted soil, which has become arid and parched by a burning sun ; and while whisk- ing a searching and unbearable dust into every crevice of the human face, added to the fiery rays which are shot from the lumi- nary above, augmented by those reflected by the bleached verdureless soil over which the troops had to march, roasting their eyes, and toasting their skin, may give some idea of the atmosphere, which has been compared to a blast from a furnace, in which an army in the field has to live and fight at this season in India ; but the old proverb, " It is an ill wind that blows nobody good/* o2 196 THE CRUISE or THE PEARL is a propos in this case. It is made to pro- duce a refresliingly low temperature in the bungalows of Europeans during the hot season, so that to permanent residents it may be considered an advantage. A kind of door called a tatty, is made of the kus- kus, a root which bears a resemblance to dry grass ; and being placed in the doorway facing the west, is perpetually kept wet by a cooley throwing water over it ; and the hot wind blowing through, produces a cool and refreshing air within, often reducing the thermometer from 100° to 70°. ROUND THE WORLU, 197 CHAPTEE IX. Acfcion near Jamoiilee — Captain Clarke's Attack on the Rebels near Biistee — Fatisruino: March from Amorha — Taking of Niigsur — Bustee saved. *o On the 25th of April, the rebels again moved out of Belwa, and came towards our camp in three columns. The day was as hot and sultry as an April day can be in these parts. They seemed to know, at any rate, what was the best means of weakening European troops ; if they failed in doing it by the sword, they adopted a very shrewd method in trying to do it by the climate. After breakfast a trooper rode in from the advanced cavalry piquet, stating that the enemy were in sight. The bugle sounded to arms, and the horses were yoked to the guns; and a little after eleven o'clock the force marched out to meet them. The line being 198 THE CRUISE OF THE PEAHL formed in front of the camp, Brigadier Eowcroft ordered the advance. After pro- ceeding two miles, near the village of Jamoulee, one column of the enemy ap- peared on our left flank, one in front, and one on the right. The enemy numbered about 4000 men, with four guns. Our line then separated. The left wing, under the command of Major Cox, of H.M. 13th Light Infantry, consisted of a squadron of the Ben- gal Yeomanry Cavalry, a company and a half of the 13th, and 200 Grorkhas: with two guns, and 100 men of the Naval Brigade under Captain Sotheby. The right wing, under Brigadier Eowcroft, consisted of about an equal number of cavalry and infantry, with two guns and a 24-pound rocket, under Lieutenant Tumour, E.N. The enemy opened fire with shell on the left wing, which, pushing on, caused them to retire; they then moved off more to the left, being still rapidly pursued. The guns under Captain ROUND THE WORLD. 199 Sotlieby, firing with their usual precision, well supported by the rifles of the seamen under Mr. Ingles, mate, E.]^., and the 13th Light Infantry, ably commanded by Major Cox, forced them to retire ; but in doing so they inclined towards our left rear, while at the same time the right wing advancing, was unable to get closer to the rebels in front than 1500 yards: 24-pounder rockets, in charge of Lieutenant Grant, were then fired upon them; and these had the desired effect in dispersing the column, which took up a position in a mango-tope. The natives have a salutary dread of the rocket, which they call " Bhan," occasioned probably by a tradition, of which I have heard, attributing the death of the brother of their god liam to this cause ; for, on advancing, we were informed by a villager, that the soubadar in command was the first to "bolt," saying that they could do nothing against Bhan. The others of course soon followed his ex- 200 THE CRUISE OP THE PEARL ample. After a sliort lialt to rest the troops, the Brigadier moved over to the left, and joined Major Cox, who was still engaged with another column, which stood their ground in two villages ; but by the time the force was again united, the rascals who had run away came on again in front, and on. our extreme right, apparently with the in- tention of threatening our camp. The right wing was obliged to retrace their steps, and when within 1200 yards, the rebels opened fire with shot and shell from a horsed battery, which they kept at a great distance, not wishing to run the risk of losing it at close quarters. Having thus doubled back to the former position, they seemed disposed to keep up a game of long balls. They would not close, or permit our force to close with them ; the line advanced, but, as it advanced, they retreated; it pushed on as fast as possible, but the sun was so fierce that the heat was melting. The horses were ROUND THE WORLD. 201 obliged to drag the guns over very bad, rough ground, enough to destroy more axles and gun-carriages than could easily be replaced; and between marching back and forward, and hunting them from one place to another, from eleven o'clock in the morning until five in the afternoon, the men and horses w^ere so fagged and w^orn out, that many, both Gorkhas and Europeans, fell down on the road, so that the line was obHged to halt. This was the most fatiguing day and most unsatisfactory " affair" the Goruckpore field force had engaged in up to this time. The insurgents so distributed their forces as to divide our attention ; and keeping at such a distance, that it was quite impossible to get at them; a few were killed by the shell at a very long range ; and on our side, although their practice with shot and shell was very good, there was no loss. The shell burst over the heads of the cavalry, and the balls 202 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL rolled along past the line to the rear among the Dhoolee bearers and camp followers, showing that their battery was managed by experienced gunners ; no doubt trained for the service of the Honourable East India Compan3^ It can scarcely be said that they made an attack : all their manoeuvres seemed intended to harass our men, and keep at a sufficient distance to make their escape when closely pressed. When urged to the attack by their leaders telling them that our "guns were small/' they remarked that the " spice (shot and shell) was very strong," and thought it safer to keep at a civil distance. If they only desired to allure our men into the sun, and thus weaken the force, the attempt was well managed : but even in this they were dis- appointed, few of our men suffering much after a night's rest, although the thermometer was up to 105°. The villagers brought out vessels of water. ROUND THE WORLD. 20S and seemed disposed to be friendly ; but not much reliance can be placed on their sin- cerity — ^very probably they performed the same office for the rebels half an hour before. The Bhisties, or water-carriers attached to the camp, had also plenty to do. These indefatigable servants carry the water in the skin of a sheep turned inside out, called a miissuck, which is placed across their back. The skin is taken off entire with- out making a longitudinal incision, as is usual in performing this operation. The apertures occasioned by the legs are closed by the skin of each leg being tied tight ; and the neck answers for a spout, through which the mussuck is filled, and from which the water is poured out, a greater or less quantity escaping according as it is dis- tended or compressed. On the following day, April 26th, news was brought in that during the affair of the previous day a body of rebels had started 204 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL up twenty-two miles in our rear, and liad taken up a position near Bustee. A small force, consisting of 200 Gorkhas and 50 of the 4tli Madras Cavalry, under Captain Clarke, had attacked and beaten 400 of them ; but it was discovered that this was only the advanced guard, and that a much larger force was coming down upon the town. In this skirmish the de- tachment of Gorkhas formed line and ad- vanced boldly, but after a few shots were fired, their line was resembled by an eye-witness to a " flock of geese," that is, " end on." The Madrasses here, under Cap- tain Clarke, behaved gallantly, charging the enemy and disposing of thirty or forty, in- cluding their leader, one of the numerous family of " Sing," who are as well known as the Smiths of London. Captain Clarke then thought it necessary to retire from Eustee to Kuptangunge ; but upon the force under Brigadier Eowcroft marching upon that ROUND THE WORLD. 205 place the same day, lie was ordered to return and reoccupy the town. The rebels seemed now to have completely surrounded us. Three or four thousand were still at Belwa in front ; another column in our rear; 3000 or 4000 at Tandah, on the opposite side of the Gogra, on our left flank, threatening a move to our rear ; while another body were not many miles from the town of Goruckpore. Under these circumstances it was thought advisable to retire that night with all speed to attack and disperse those near Bustee. At nine o'clock that night the camp was struck, the baggage was packed and sent off under a guard, while a number of Cooleys or Bildars were employed for three hours pulling down the walls and bastions of the small fort which had been constructed for the sick and baggage. The fort being pretty well de- faced, the remainder of the force had cleared off the ground by ten o'clock that night. 206 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL The roads were very bad, and the difficulty of procuring sufficient conveyance for com- missariat stores was so great that we did not arrive at Kuptan gunge (twelve miles distant) until seven o'clock next morning. It was a most wearisome march, rendered particularly so by the sultriness of the night and the constant delays occasioned by the baggage. Either the hackeries must have been loaded more than usual, or the bullocks conspired not to work when urgently re- quired. Sometimes they would rush fran- tically out of their frail yokes and scamper facetiously into a neighbouring field or village, giving a run to some unhappy driver. As luck would have it, the moon shed her benign rays on us, enlivening the scene a little, and after a space of nine hours, a march of twelve miles was performed. On one or two occasions, where more than ordinary obstinacy of the draft-buUocksc caused a delay, a few managed to steal a ROUND THE WORLD. 207 sleep on the road-side, spreading a rug or greatcoat and laying their heads on a lump of dry mud for a pillow. A Saes,* with a very valuable charger belonging to Major Eichardson, went too far beyond the camping ground in company with his other servants and baggage. A party of the rebels being on the road at the time, captured him, to the great inconvenience of the owner, who lost at the same time all his clothes, letters, papers, and books. The Saes and another servant were murdered, but the rest escaped. Others had a narrow escape that same night, by getting in advance of the advanced guard, and going too far from the column. After this surprise the camp- followers entertained a wholesome fear of going too far from the tents. About 1000 rebels were found to be in possession of the fort of Nuggur, seven miles * A groom. 208 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL distant from our encampment, and another larger force, with artillery, was expected daily to join them from the other side of the river. On the 29th a detachment,* under the command of Major Cox, left the camp a little after noon, and having made a march of seven miles, took the enemy by surprise at half-past two o'clock, p.m. Ap- proaching the jungle, which extends for a mile before reaching the village of Nuggur, and the old fort, which was surrounded by a high embankment and dry ditch, by the command of Major Cox the force made a detour, keep- ing the jungle half a mile to the right. On getting within 500 yards of the village, the detachment was received with a heavy fire of musketry from the jungle and from behind the earthworks. Skirmishers of the •^ 156 officers and men of Her Majesty's Light Infantry, 96 of tlie Naval Brigade, with two guns and a 24-pounder rocket-tube, 65 of the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, 292 Gorkhas, and 47 Sikhs. ROUND THE WORLD. 209 13th Light Infantry, the Sikhs, and Eoyal Marines, were sent in to drive them out from their hiding-place, and from the rifle- pits with which it was intersected. The two naval guns and rocket under Lieutenant Grant, R.N., were ordered to take up a posi- tion on a slight rise and open fire on that part of the village where the enemy seemed to be most numerous. Here they were well peppered with shell; and the 24-pounder rockets pitching into the village, set it on fire, and, as well as the guns, aided to silence the musketry of the enemy. The Royal Marine and seamen skirmishers on the right, under Lieutenant Pym, Eoyal Marine Light Infantry, and a detachment of the 13 th Light Infantry, under Captain Kerr, on the left, by a simultaneous movement, rushed into the village, and drove out the rebels, who made their escape through the jungle and across 2, Jheel which bordered the village. They formed upon the opposite side; but, owing to ^ 210 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL the nature of the ground, it was im- possible for the cavalry to charge; conse- quently they effected their escape, leaving behind their baggage, tents, oxen, ponies, and large stores of grain, all of which was saved that escaped the conflagration. A sergeant of the 13th, collecting about a dozen men, pursued the enemy, and one of them, along with a Sikli, succeeded in cap- turing the rebels' colours as they escaped, disposing of the man who carried them with his rifle. Major Eichardson s horse, which had been taken off a few days before, was now recaptured. His baggage, uniform, also books and clothes, which had been lost, were now found scattered in various places ; no doubt distributed and subdivided by the captors. A man, who probably was on the point of walking off with the prize, was found killed by the bursting of a shell near the horse, so that he had a narrow escape from both causes. Thirty or forty of the BOUND THE WORLD. 211 rebels were killed, but the chief portion of them escaped; of our men only three or four were wounded. A kitmutgar of one of the officers was attacked by a budmash; but, although unarmed, he had more " pluck " than his opponent, and managing to deprive him of his tulwar, tied his hands behind his back, and triumphantly delivered him up to the magistrate. Owing to the admirable arrangements that were made by Major Cox, the bold advance and sudden rush into the fort and village, the action was brought to a speedy and successful issue, with but a very trifling loss ; and in the evening the detachment re- turned to camp, many of those who went out in the morning infantry having returned cavalry, being mounted on the ponies which were captured from the insurgents. On crossing the Jheel, the rebels retreated with the utmost speed in the direction of Tandah, to join the other column which had p2 212 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL been daily expected to make an inroad into the district. This sudden check, however, relieved it from any immediate prospect of such an incubus. And, further, it may be observed, that the field force left Amorha in the nick of time to save Bustee, and perhaps Goruckpore, from a second inundation. ROUND THE WORLD. 213 CHAPTER X. The Nepalese Army on its return Home — Govern- ment Servants mutilated — The Men lodged in Huts — A. Locomotive Library — Recreation for the Men — Alarms — The First of the Dours — Attack on the Kpnee's House at Amorha — The Kebels beaten at Hurreah. By this time Jung Baliadoor's army was at Fyzabad, eu route for Nepaul, where there was some little delay, owing to the rebels at Belwa occupying the left bank of the river. By them they soon ceased to be molested : some said that there was a private understanding on the subject. Por this I cannot positively vouch ; at any rate, they crossed the Gogra without meeting with any opposition, and on the 10th of May, with unwonted celerity, the advanced guard surprised us by marching into Bustee. The whole force shortly after arrived, bringing 214 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL in their train an amount of baggage borne on elephants, camels, hackeries, and ponies, one-tenth of which no one ever believed came from Nepaul ; in fact, they returned rich in the spoils of Lucknow. No doubt they had much which would be regarded by Europeans as lumber ; but in their estimation would be articles of value, and perhaps articles of virtu. The remaining Gorkha regiments, which had been with us so long, were now ordered home, and our force became diminished to about 730, out of which the number of the sick was alarmins:. On the 7th of May the fort at Nuggur was destroyed, and on the following day the force marched to Bustee, which, being a central position, was made the head-quarters, and huts were ordered to be built for our men, instead of living in tents during the rains. A bungalow which had escaped the devastating genius of the Sepais, on their previous occupation of this village, was con- verted into a hospital, and in a very short ROUND THE WORLD. 215 time became crowded to excess. The climate now began to tell seriously on our men; almost all hands complained, more or less. The eiFects of living in a hothouse, with the thermometer ranging from 100° to 110*^, varied with the unpleasantness of a dismal dust-storm, which obscured the light of the sun himself, was enough to make any one feel something more than " ennui ^' and cast a shadow of dulness over the force. Even the nights became so oppressive, that to expect relief even then was a vain hope. Day after day some one was cut off in the strength of his days, in a strange land, far from home, and without a relative to close his eyes. One day it was an officer, another day a non-commissioned officer, and some- times a private ; there was neither immunity nor precedence given to rank or age, when the cold liand of the last enemy clutched with an iron grasp. Occasionally a dead or mutilated Tus- seeldar, or other government officer, would 216 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL appear in camp, upon whom a party of rebels made a dash, marching an amazing distance, and escaping again in one night. It was a brutalizing war, in which quarter was neither given or received. No Euro- pean that fell into their hands could expect anything but a most cruel death, aggra- vated with great indignities, and therefore prisoners were not taken ; for, if taken, it would only be to suffer execution in another form. Even to their own countrymen in the employment of government, they showed no mercy, sometimes even increasing in bold- ness and daring, making a fell swoop, from a distance, on some Theseel, or village, not many miles from our camp, and escaping before tidings could be conveyed of their approach. By the middle of June the huts were finished, and on the 13th instant the Naval Brigade shifted billet into them from their tents. This was a great change for the HOUND THE WORLD. 217 better. The quarters were lofty and airy, the roof was made of straw, and sufficiently thick to repel the sun's rays, as well as to keep out the rain. Puncas were rigged up, and pulled all day by native punca wallas ; added to which, the rains setting in, cooled the air, enabling the men to breathe. The sick list then began to fluctuate, and at last showed a diminution. The season now became quite changed ; an occasional thunderstorm was quite a variety, not an agreeable one, it must be acknow- ledged, to those who had the misfortune to be in tents, and were obliged to paddle in water ; but when well housed, the country presented a different appearance, and the climate was by no means so oppressive as when the soil was parched and dry. The camp routine was as dull as usual. The drills were relaxed, the season not being suitable for that exercise, and all hands relapsed into reading or sleeping on a 218 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL cliarpoy ; a state wliicli lasted for a longer or shorter period according to the state of the weather. No orders having arrived that the brigade should return to the ship, all hands settled down ^vith the prospect of another campaign, and several kinds of amusements were got up for the men. Books were sent for, a reading-room was established, which, afterwards, when the force took the field, became a portable library, for which a tent was especially set apart. No sooner was the camp pitched after a march, than the reading-room tent, with the periodicals and daily papers, might be seen holding a con- spicuous place. During the intervals of fine weather, divers athletic sports were got up for the men ; jumping, racing, throwing shot for prizes, hurdle-racing, leaping and hopping. Sometimes it would be varied by a pony race, a Dhooley* race, or an Ecka * A kind of palanquin for the sick or wounded, carried on men's shoulders. ROUND THE WORLD. 219 race,* and occasionally the amusements of the day would be finished off as a great treat by an elephant race, or interrupted by a race between two or three Jacks dressed up in the costume of ladies of the last century, riding on donkeys with their feet touching the ground; and sometimes the grand finale would be a scamper, with loud .shouts and vociferous cheering, after an un- fortunate pig with his tail shaved. In addition to these diurnal recreations there were theatricals in camp in the evening, or an occasional alarm in the night to keep up the excitement. There were bodies of insurgents constantly on the move, tossed about between one force and another, not knowing where to go, having much more reason to fear than to be feared ; how- ever, not knowing what desperate thing they might be tempted to do, it was always * A small cart drawn by a pony. It is the Jarvey of India. 220 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL necessary to be on the " qui vive '' whenever they were expected in the neighbourhood. At tliis time tawny wolves from the adjacent jungles paid periodical visits to the camp, and one fine night, when some of the camp- followers were up later than usual, cooking their supper, some of these hungry visitors considered they had a better right to the meal than the cooks, and coming unplea- santly close, the strangers scared the ser- vants, who ran screaming, and causing such an alarm throughout the camp, that the sentries turned out the guard, and in less than ten minutes the brigade was under arms, and the guns were manned ready for action. On discovering their mistake, the men returned to their tents to have their legitimate residue of rest. Not more than a fortnight afterwards, a jackal began to play his tricks, producing a still more alarming disturbance. He entered one of the men's huts late at niglit, and ROUND THE WORLD. 221 commenced a voyage of discovery among the mess-traps in quest of provender ; he was driven away again and again, but not being offended at the repulse, exhibited a manifest rekictance to take his departure. He caught a pet monkey by the head, intending to make a meal off him in lieu of a better dish ; but the pet was rescued, and the jackal ignominiously expelled from the hut. But not being bashful, he returned in a couple of hours, and began to make free with the limbs of one of the inmates of the hut, which caused the recipient of his attentions to leap out of bed and shout vociferously. Another messmate caught the infection, and jumped up half-asleep and half-awake, and, without having a very clear notion why, he laid hold of his neighbour violently, and both exerted their lungs to the utmost pitch. The other inmates of the tent were soon aroused by the noise, and an attempt was made to kill the invader, who managed 222 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL in the confusion to make liis escape. The men in the other huts were awakened from their peaceful slumbers by the " row," and ran out to discover what it was all about. A sentry seeing the men rushing from their huts, fired his musket ; another sentry fol- lowed his example, giving the alarm ; and in an incredibly short space of time the whole force was on the alert. The cavalry patrok came in at a gallop to see what was the matter, and more than one distinguished officer was seen emerging from his quarters in his shirt sleeves, with his sword in one hand and a revolver in the other; while some faithful bearer might be seen running with similar weapons of defence after his waking Sahib. In less than ten minutes there were men running in every direction to " see what was up ;" while the jackal, no doubt, leisurely walked away, to wait for a more convenient opportunity to loot his dinner when the alarm had subsided. ROUND THE WORLD. 223 After the taking of Lncknow, when flying columns liad been sent after the rebels by the Commander-in-Chief, tra- versing Oudh in different directions, they became split up into many detached forces, and when driven from one place wonld reap- pear a few days afterwards in another ; until at last they took refuge on the north side of the Gogra, having much few^er troops there to molest them than in Oudh. With the increase of 300 of the 6th Madras Cavalry, under Colonel Byng, the Goruckpore field force at Bustee amounted to about 1000 men. Even with so small a force it was necessary so to dispose them that the insurgents should get no rest ; but being hunted down wherever they appeared, should never be permitted to take root in any particular locality. For tliis purpose the force was split up into small detachments, and sent to scour all parts of the district. This was anything but a pleasant duty during the 224 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL rains. When a dour of this kind was made, the dry hut and comfortable quarters were left behind at Bustee, and at the end of a long and wearisome march, the tents would be pitched where the ground was wet under foot, and with rain falling over head, the whole country was either a sheet of water or a muddy marsh, adding the appearance of dreariness to the experience of discomfort. The first of these dours was commenced on the 23rd of May, when a detachment of two guns, and a 24 -pounder rocket-tube of the Naval Artillery, with two troops of the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, marched to Kuptangunge to hold it as an outpost ; and after a halt of a few days proceeded to Hurreah. On the 31st of the same month, one of these wandering bodies of rebels attacked, looted, and burned the village of Kuptangunge. The Theseeldar and inhabi- tants fled to Bustee with all speed to give the alarm ; but before assistance could be ROUND THE WORLD. 225 rendered all the miscliief was done, and they were off. On the 7th of June another detachment, consisting of twenty of the Eoyal Marine Light Infantry, and thirty-two of H.M.'s 13th Light Infantry, under Lieutenant Pym, Eoyal Marine Light Infantry, marched from Bustee at nine o'clock at night, and by three o'clock next morning arrived at Kuptangunge, where other troops were drawn up on the road ready to march. They then proceeded to Hurreah, where another small detachment had just arrived under Major Cox, who had left Bustee on the 30th of May, and after taking a circuitous route, and scouring the district in another direction, arrived here in time to take the command. The tents were pitched, and the troops, some of whom had completed a twenty-two miles march, lay down to rest for a few hours, until six o'clock the same day, when the tents were struck, and the ^26 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL baggage packed. At two o'clock next morning, tliey* marched in the direction of Amorha in two columns, one under the -command of Major Eichardson, consisting of a detachment of Eoyal Marines, 13th Light Infantry, and a few Sikhs, with one troop of cavalry and two guns. While this column proceeded along the road, the other, led by Major Cox, went across country to attack the enemy, strongly posted in the house of a Eanee near Amorha. At day- light the force arrived at a nullah in the rear of the house and village, from behind which the rebels opened fire on the cavalry. The Eoyal Marines coming up, were thrown out in skirmishing order, and returned the fire ; the guns, under Lieutenant Turnour, E.N., were galloped up, and threw shot and * " Pearl's" Naval Brigade, 53 ; two 12-pounder howitzers, and one 24-pounder rocket-tube; 200 of the 13th Light Infantry; two troops of the 6th Madras Cavalry, two troops of the Bengal Yeomanry Oavalry, and 20 Sikhs. ROUND THE WORLD. 227 shell among the main body, which after a quarter of an hour retreated into the house and adjacent buildings. The force then forded the nullah, and throwing out skir- mishers, Major Cox, with his usual skill and bravery, forced them to evacuate their posi- tion, and drove them towards Beiwa. Several were killed in the retreat ; our loss was inconsiderable. After a short halt, the force returned to Hurreah, and bildars were employed to destroy the fort which they had rebuilt at Amorha. The Eoyal Ma- rines continued their march to Bustee, an attack being expected there from another quarter. It is painful to be obliged to call to mind that the graves of those who fell in action, or died from disease, during the time we were encamped at Amorha, were torn open by the rebels after we left it; such was their savage barbarity, that even the bones of the dead were not allowed to rest in q2 228 THE CRUISE OF THE PEAllL peace. The graves were then restored, and the damage was rectified before leaving the phice. On the return of the force to Bustee, the rebels came on again with imperturb- able pertinacity, and returning to Hurreah, seemed disposed to take up their quarters there during the rains, commencing to throw up earthworks and build huts. But on the 16th of June, another dour was made in the same direction. At seven o'clock in the evening, eighty seamen and marines under Captain Sotheby, one troop of Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, and half a troop of Madras Cavalry, left Bustee, and by half past ten at night, arriving near Kup- tangunge, they lay down on the road to rest until daybreak, intending to take the enemy by surprise at Hurreah. But as they were about to push on, a fearful thunder-storm broke over their heads ; rain fell in torrents; no tents were pitched to give shelter, the land was flooded, the road ROUND THE WORLD. 220 was turned into a river, and all hands were w^ell drenched. A dram of rum was issued to tlie men, and they managed to get as far as the camping ground. The land being a sheet of water, w^as not in a very good condition for the w^orking of guns. The attack was consequently postponed until the following day (the 18th), when, at three o'clock in the morning, having joined another detachment which had been sent out previously under Lieutenant-Colonel Byng of the 6th Madras Cavalry, the force* left Kuptangunge to attack the insurgents under Mahomed Hussein, who were posted and entrenched in the village of Hurreah, eight miles in front. At mid- night 150 of the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry "" "PeaiTs" Naval Brigade, 111; two 12-pouiider howitzers, and one 24-pounder rocket-tube, imder Captain Sotheby ; 135 of the 13th Light Infantry; 50 Sikhs; 130 Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry; 100 of the Gth Madras Cavalry ; one 9-pounder and one24-pounder howitzer, Bengal Artillery. 230 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL and .6th Madras Cavalry, under the com- mand of Captain Mulcaster, went across country by a circuitous route, and after a fatiguing march of sixteen miles, took up a position in the rear of the enemy, masked by a tope of trees, with a view of cutting off their retreat, and if possible capture their chief, with his guns and elephants. About three o'clock in the morning of the 18th, the remainder of the force marched to meet the enemy in front. The Nazim Mahomed Hussein had taken up a position with about 4000 or 5000 men, including 900 Sepais and six guns, in the villages of Sirsaie and Hurreah, On the right flank were two thick bamboo jungles and a village in the possession of the enemy, and on the left flank a nullah, a village, and a strong brick house, besides a tope of trees also occupied by them. Captain Mulcaster and Captain Chapman continued to watch the enemy's movements ROUND THE WORLD. 231 until a little after sunrise, when the action commenced. Skirmishers were thrown out, and the guns were brought up to the front and opened fire. The enemy stood firm until the troops began to close ; then, under the influence of the artillery and the steady advance of the riflemen driving them across the river, which, the skirmishers of the 13th, under Lieutenant Everett, the Koyal Marines and seamen under Mr. Ingles, mate, immediately fording, they retired jfrom the bridge. Captain Sotheby galloped up the naval guns, and finding the right in close collision with the enemy's left, who obstinately held the jungle, opened a de- structive fire with shot and shell. All this time the cavalry were exposed to a con- tinued and heavy fire from the enemy's rifles and infantry, who were in a position inaccessible to cavalry. Captain Chapman with his troop took a wide sweep, to cut off the elephants and baggage, which 232 THE CRUISE OF THE PEAUL \ Were at some distance ; but being in a posi- tion inaccessible to cavalry, the movement had only the effect of causing some of it to be abandoned. The two guns of the Bengal Artillery and the remainder of the 13th having been, with Lieutenant-Colonel Byng, engaged on the left, now advanced, took up a position on the road, and shelled the rebels out of the jungle ; and the two naval guns, gallop- ing over the bridge, found the enemy in great force. On the right, at a distance of 300 yards, a small mud battery was thrown up, with well-made embrasures, in order to command the bridge, and another in a tope about double the distance off. From the former they were soon cleared out by the howitzers ; and as they were retreating from the latter, where they appeared to be a strong column of 1500 men, their movements were accelerated by the same agency. The naval guns here coming up ROUND THE WORLD. 233 with the skirmishers and the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry at the same time, they were pursued until the infantry, from fatigue and intolerable heat, were obliged to halt. The enemy, who were evidently trained soldiers, retired in good order, receiving protection from the numerons topes and small villages on their route. The action lasted four hours, and they are reported to have lost about seventy. Our casualty list was small, only seven or eight men, and several horses wounded. The naval guns under Lieutenant Turnour, assisted, by Mr. Maquay, mate, E.N., were remarked to have moved with great rapidity, and to have fired with great precision. There was only one of the enemy's captured, with some of their baggage and ammunition. That part of the district was, however, cleared for the present, and the Nazim effected his escape, and that but narrowly ; he was obhged to 234 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL retire into the jungle, there to take up his quarters in an old fort, with a few trusty- followers. The force did not long remain at Hurreah, and two days afterwards had the benefit of another thunder-storm, which caused the men in tents to be " all afloat ;" a circum- stance by no means conducive to the well-being of the troops, or calculated to restore to health those who had lately been suffering from fever or dysentery. But these inconveniences never produced dis- content whenever there was active service to be carried out ; let the weather be ever so trying, or the heat ever so oppressive, the men were at all times ready, forward, and even impatient to leave the sick list before the time. ROUND THE WORLD. 235 CHAPTER XI. Engagement with the Eebels near Lumptee — Attack on HiuTeah — The Rebels beaten at Debreah — Dour to Bansee — Hai-assing March — The Rebels Beaten at Doomureahgunge — Second Doui^ to Bansee — The Enemy beaten at Amorha — Jugdes- pore attacked — Rebels routed at Doomureah- gunge — Rebels attacked at Bururiah. On the 29tli of August a detadiment of the Naval Brigade under Lieutenant Tawkes, R.N., took part in an action near Lumptee. The force,* under the command of Captain Garrard of the 27th Regiment, Native In- fantry, repelled, with unshaken steadiness and promptitude, an attack of the enemy under the Rajah of Grondah, consisting of 150 * " Pearl's" Naval Brigade, 50, with two guns ; 50 of Her Majesty's 13th Light Infantry; 50 Sikhs; 350 of the 27th Madras Native Infantry ; one troop of the 6th Madras Cavalry. 236 THE CRUISE OF THE PEATIL Sowars, 300 Sepais, and 1900 irregular troops, witli four guns. By the time the enemy's advanced guard got within two miles of the entrenchments, the detachment of Her Majesty's i3th Light Infantry was ordered to take up a position on the left of the road in a tope, and the detachment of the 27th Madras Native Infantry on the right, under cover of a village. The seamen and guns took ground in the centre, in another village. The enemy advanced in three columns, and attacked the left and centre several times, but were repelled by the steady firing of the rifle.s and the effective precision of the shells. The attack was kept up until about four o'clock, P.M., when they attempted to turn the flank of the position taken up by Captain Garrard ; but failing in this, they retired, and the force followed them up, the guns and cavalry pursuing, until they halted and recommenced the firing. Tlie naval guns then advanced rapidly, and silenced their battery, forcing tliem to re- ROUND THE WORLD. 237 treat. After a pursuit of three or four miles, the force returned to Amorha. The loss of the enemy was about fifty ; our detachment suffered very slightly. On the same day, about half-past five in the evening, another attack was made by the rebels on another outpost at Hurreah, eight miles distant. They were about SOO strong, with a force in reserve, and three guns. Intelligence of the • fact was imme- diately sent to headquarters at Bustee, and at ten o'clock that night a force* was sent out with the utmost rapidity under Major Cox, of the 13th Light Infantry. They had been repelled by Captain Vine with his small detachment ; but on the approach of the re- inforcement from Bustee, and on the arrival of the cavalry in advance at two o'clock next morning, they lost no time in retiring. Major Cox immediately pushed on to * 350 of Her Majesty's 13th Light Infantry ; two guns of Naval Brigade under Lieutenant Tumour; one troop of Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry. 238 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL Debreah, where he again came up with them on the 1st of September. They num- bered about 1000 infantry, fifty Sowars, and three guns. After a fatiguing march, he attacked, defeated, and routed them, Major Cox himself leading a party of the 13th to a charge against a body of the rebels con- cealed behind the embankment of a tank, clearing them out, and with the whole de- tachment pursued them up close, until they retired with a loss of about ninety in killed and wounded ; the detachment at the same time suiFering much from bad roads, oppres- sive heat, and heavy ground ; but they went through it with their usual cheerfulness and steadiness, inspired by the intrepidity of their leader with a confidence of success. On the evening of the 6th of September another dour was made by a detachment under the command of Commander Grant, B.N., at a season of the year most trying to the strongest constitution and most un- I ROUND THE WORLD. 239 daunted perseverance ; but was conducted with a zeal and judgment which deservedly gained the highest commendation from the Brigadier in command. The force consisted of two 12-pounder howitzers, and a 24- pounder rocket-tube, with seventy-three seamen and marines, and seventy non-com- missioned officers, rank and file, of Her Majesty's 18th Light Infantry, under Lieu- tenant Gillett. The object was to relieve Bansee, a town in the northern part of the district of Goruckpore, which belonged to a friendly Eajah ; the small garrison of Sikhs who held the place, being hard pressed by the rebels, a prompt and speedy march of a sufficient force was the only chance for its safety. On reaching Grontah, twelve miles distant from the place. Captain Mulcaster joined the detachment with a squadron of cavalry, and assuming the command, pushed on with all speed, and arrived at Bansee on the 8th, 240 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL after a march of fifty miles, in thirty-nine hours. The roads were in a deplorable state after the rains. The guns were carried on ele- phants. ' The men were sometimes marching up to their knees in mud, and sometimes up to their waist in water, Jack suggesting that a boat would be more suitable. In one place they waded for nearly three miles, besides having forded two nullahs and crossed another in a boat, which with some diffi- culty was procured for the purpose. In addition to the difficulties under foot, the sun, as usual, poured down his rays of fire, which was most harassing to the men, who, nevertheless, pushed on, and the enemy, on hearing of their approach, retired. Then the Eaptee, a river deep and rapid at that season of the year, was crossed by a portion of the force, and the (javalry pursuing the fugitives cut up several. Havildar Narain Sing, of the Sikh batta- HOUND THE WORLD. 241 lion, leaving liis corps, galloped on, and liaving cut down two of the enemy, re- turned to his men; and on a subsequent occasion this same native Sikh officer, on the retreat of the enemy across a river, threw oif his clothes, and taking his sword between his teeth, sw^am across and cut down five of the rebels. On arriving at the house of the Eajah^ which was converted into a sort of fortress, it was found that the ammunition of the Sikh garrison had run so short, that only three rounds of percussion-caps remained per man. Here the Europeans got shelter from the sun ; but liaving out-marched the commissariat, were without provisions until nine o'clock at night. The Sikhs, to stay the cravings of hunger, commenced to make chupatties (a sort of thin native cake baked in a pan), which were very acceptable under the circumstances; but Jack gave it as his opinion that they had the flavour of baked sawdust 242 THE CRUISE or THE PEARL Brigadier Tischer, of tlie Madras Native Infantry, joined the force on the 10th, and on the 12th marched from Bansee, a few men having been left behind who were thoroughly "done up" with fatigue, heat, and exposure. The rest of the force, losing no time, reached Doomureahgunge on the 13th, when the advanced guard was fired upon by a body of rebels from a line of earthworks commanding the road. The naval guns (12-p^ mountain-train howitzers) having been taken off the backs of the ele- phants, and the horses being yoked to them, were speedily galloped to the front; the marines and seamen, under Lieutenant Ingrles, advanced at the double to cover their guns. The infantry forming line ad- vanced steadily to the front, waded over fields flooded with water, and on coming within range, the guns opened fire, throwing shell into their entrenched camp and on the main body, until they w^ere obliged to retke. ROUND THE WORLD. 24S Next day, with indomitable perseverance, the force crossed the river, and marched northward towards Intwa, expecting to catch the enemy in a village where they had taken up their quarters ; but the road^ being quite impassable without swimming, they were obliged to return and recross the river. The object of the expedition being accomplished, they marched back to Bustee, which was reached on the 17th; and the following morning the sick, who were left behind, also arrived at head-quarters. A similar expedition, if possible, more harassing, was subsequently made by another detachment*' of the Naval Brigade under Lieutenant Ingles, which left Bustee on the 27th of the same month, and arriving at Bansee by forced marches, crossed the * "Pearl's" Naval Brigade, two 12-pounder howitzers, 30 men and 2 officers, under Lieutenant Ingles, E.N".; 72 of Her Majesty's 13th Light In- fantry, under Colonel Twynan, and 27 of the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry. r2 244 THE CRUISE OE THE PEAllL Eaptee and came up with tlie rear-guard of the rebels at Mo wee. The cavalry and guns quickly dispersed them, driving them into the jungle ; and after a pursuit of five or six miles, the force returned, having suffered greatly from a hard day's work, wading through water, and scouring through thick jungle. The rebels, driven from Oudh, were daily increasing on the north of the Grogra, and the Goruckpore field force was obliged to do the work of double their number. It was split up into small detachments, which were continually despatched to drive ofi* wandering bands of insurgents, who were becoming more and more audacious in their approaches, from having no spot of ground which they could calculate on as a safe re- treat. Sometimes they would make a dash at some village, mutilating or killing the Theseeldar or some unfortunate Burkun- dazee, and then looting the neighbourhood. ROUND THE WORLD. 245 would make their escape. The movements of these flying columns were so rapid, that it was quite impossible to get timely intel- ligence of their approach, and equally im- possible to calculate where they intended to go, or what turning they were next likely to take. One of these wandering clouds passed within ten miles of Bustee, and killed two Madras Saeses (grooms) which they met on the road. Captain Sotheby, in company with Commander Tumour, had a narrow escape, having ridden along the road only half an hour before they crossed. The same day the Naval Brigade was in danger of suffering a severe loss in its commanding officer from another cause. He was much injured by a bad fall from his horse, but fortunately the injury turned out not to be so severe as was anticipated, and after a temporary indispo- sition, Captain Sotheby was again restored to duty. Such are the many chances that flutter about in time of war. 246 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL While the proceedings just narrated were €arrying out in the north of the district, another affair took place in the west of it towards Fyzabad. The detachment which held the outpost at Amorha, was attacked on October 1st about noon. The villagers reported that the enemy, numbering about 1200, with two guns, were advancing in three columns, their usual order, one on the centre, and one on each flank. Captain Garrard, of the 27th Native Infantry, was in command. The detachment* moved out, and took up a position at a distance of about 800 yards in front of the camp. The sea- men and Sikhs took ground in the centre, and a small body of Infantry were thrown out on both flanks. About two o'clock in the afternoon, the * Fifty of the « Pearl's" Naval Brigade and two 12-pouiider howitzers under Lieutenant Fawkes j 50 of the 13th Light Infantry; 50 Sikhs; 70 Madras Infantry, and one troop of Madras Cavalry. ROUND THE WORLD. 247 enemy commenced the attack on both flanks and centre, which was renewed several times; but being repulsed each time by the rifles and shell, towards evening they commenced a retreat, when they were hotly pursued by the horsed guns, supported by the cavalry and Sikhs. The cavaby charging on the left, and the guns directed by Lieutenant Maquay, pursuing them with unexpected speed, came within a short distance of several of the retreating mutineers. A few of the cavalry advanced, intending to charge, but on approaching too near, the Sepais went through threatening motions with their muskets, causing either the horses or their riders to turn about. An attempt was made more than once to bring them to the point, but the Sepais kept them at bay. Tour of the seamen at the gun were ordered to charge ; an order which they gallantly obeyed. Lee, Williams, Kayfield, and Sim- monds, dashed forward, and came up with 248 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL a few that still had not made their escape ; after a short encounter, the clash of swords being but for a moment, and they were des- patched. Lee received a severe sword-cut in the arm, Ray field a slight contusion in the arm, which was said to have been a bite from the Sepai when deprived of his other wea]3on, and Williams only a verj^ slight wound. The affair being thus brought to a termination, the detachment returned to camp. On the 23rd of October, another dour was made to Bansee, the rebels again com- ing down to that neighbourhood. The force consisted of a detachment of the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, two naval guns, and a company of H.M.'s 13tli Light Lifantry ; and having had a brush with the enemy, returned to head- quarters. On the 2Gth of the same month, an atttick was made by a detachment under the command of Colonel Lord Mark Kerr, 13th Light Infantry, on ROUND THE WORLD. 249 Jugdespore, a fort in the jungle, lying about twenty-five miles north -w^est from Bustee, which being more strongly garrisoned than had been expected, his lordship drew off his men in good order, and retired. This movement gave rise to reports that the Naval Brigade guns were taken ; and many amusing letters on the subject were written in the Indian papers by the seamen, in which they indignantly repelled the charge, expressing their astonishment that the public were ignorant of the fact that there are two things Jack never loses, and these are " his grog and his guns." The outlying detachments having been called in, the whole field force marched from Bustee, on the 24th of November, towards the north of the district. The rebels by this time having been routed out of Oudh and the Dooab, congregated along the belt of jungle which separates our territory from Nepaul. A field hospital was esta- 250 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL blishecl at Bustee, and small detacliments from the different corps left as a guard, Lieutenant-Colonel Whistler, of the 6th Madras Cavalry, being in command. A siege train also arriving at Bustee, the same day, was ordered to join the force, and subsequently was turned over to the " PearFs" Naval Brigade. On the 25th the force marched to Bhan- pore, and was there joined by a Madras battery, under the command of Captain Cadell, and next day moved on to Doomu- reahgunge, which is situated on the right bank of the Eaptee. When within two miles of the village, a native brought information that our bugle-calls on the line of march were heard by the advanced piquet of the rebels, and that they were preparing to retreat. The brigade soon after halted, on the enemy being seen on the left, not more than a mile distant. Sowars were observed riding up and down, in front of ROUND THE WORLD. 251 the infantry, which had taken up a position in a mango-tope. A detachment was sent out under Lieutenant-Colonel Cox, of the 13th Light Infantry, consisting of 200 Sikhs of the Ferozepore regiment, under Lieutenant-Colonel Brazier, 200 of the 13th Light Infantry, and two guns of Captain CadelFs battery, with a troop of cavalry. Wliile Colonel Cox attacked the insurgents on the left of the road, the remainder of the force, under Brigadier Eowcroft, consisting of the rest of the 13th, the Sikhs, the Naval Brigade and Artillery, advanced along the road towards the village, in order to cut oif any possibility of escape in that direction. As soon as the Madras Ai^tillery got within range. Captain Cadell opened fire with his guns, and soon drove them out of the tope. The detachment still pressed on, driving them before them as they went, until they "shoved" them up into the bend of a nullah, out of which they could not 252 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL extricate themselves without either fighting or swimming; the latter course they pre- ferred. The cavalry charged down the bank of the nullah, and drove them into the water ; not, however, without the loss of their brave leader, Captain Gifford, and a trooper, who were killed, and several others wounded. A scene then was acted which could not be witnessed in a warfare between two civilized European nations. The war in India was a war of extermination, without any shadow of doubt; the crime not only of the Sepais who mutinied and killed their officers, but of the other rebels, who, unprovoked, took a savage delight in the blood of Europeans, was such that the universal feeling which prevailed was " death" to the perpetrators. It was utterly impossible to discover the men among the multitudes who had done the deeds, and therefore all who bore arms against the Government were regarded as ROUND THE WORLD. 253 being implicated. In this state of things few ever went through the empty formality of making prisoners. Many of the Sepais who es(;aped the sabres of the cavalry, were drowned in the nullah, when making an attempt to escape ; and many others appeared with only their black heads above water, making the last vain effort to save life, either by wading or swimming. It is only when there is no chance of escape that the natives of India exhibit great courage, or rather indifference, at meeting death. When an opportunity offers to get away, they show no greater contempt for life than other people. The heads of the fugitives dotted about then became marks to fire at, until all disap- peared, except one or two, who, escaping among a shower of balls, crawled up the opposite bank, and hid among the high crops. One, in particular, was standing up to his chin in the water, unable to swim 254 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL across, and submitting to the annoyance of being the object of many " pot shots," for nearly half an hour. An officer's servant, his fellow countryman, showing his zeal for the "Company Bahadoor," commenced firing missiles, in the form of lumps of hard clay, which were the first to take efiect. An officer standing by charged him with the folly of being a rebel, and told him that he was going that day to receive the reward of his deeds in the other world ; stating it in plainer language than I have thought it necessary to write. He replied with a volley of abuse, in no measured or choice language, and told him it was no business of his. A torrent of foul epithets ensued: but in this kind of warfare it is hopeless for a European to compete with a native of India. Their language abounds in such a choice collection of insulting terms, that it is incomparably rich in untranslateable slang. In fact I have ROUND THE WORLD. 255 heard of men in the bazaars who would not object to attack any one with lingo for a very small remuneration. Whether this indi- vidual was a member of that profession or not, it was impossible to ascertain ; at any rate his time was drawing to a close, for a trooper then coming up, fired, and the Avretched man made one struggle — for a moment the water was disturbed — ^but the next minute and the circling ripples subsided ; he sunk to rise no more, and all was as calm above as if nothing had happened. One small gun and limber was taken, and the force retired. But on halting for a short time to rest the troops, an officer going into a field of dhall, was saluted by a Sepai in fall uniform, with a Punjab medal on his breast, who presented his musket, but did not fire. Being only armed with a sword, he called a soldier of the 13th, who despatched him, and as he retired, boasting 256 THE CRUISE OE THE PEARL liow well lie had done it, a more experienced campaigner immediately proceeded to de- nude liim of the medal, and investigate the contents of his kamerband, in which was discovered a large deposit of Company's rupees. It was considered scarcely equitable that another sliould step in and capture tlie proceeds of his prize. To rifle the slain for the gold mohurs or Company's rupees, became of such usual occurrence, the Sepais carrying their property in their kamerband, or turban, that the man who made tlie " bag" (a sporting expression in common use) had a vested interest in his antagonist. There w^as a halt at Doomureahgunge for some days, while a bridge of boats was constructing across the Eaptee. Balla Eao, a brother, as some call him, or some other near relative of the Nana, as others say, occupied the opposite side with several thousand men and a strong force of artil- lery. He continued collecting revenue at ROUND THE WORLD. 257 tlie rate of about 5000 rupees per day^ and report said that he sent his sa- laams to the Begum, offering her cash, and informing her of his successes. Tha former she is said to have declined, not being in any immediate want of subsidies, but as to the latter she congratulated liim. On the evening of the 2nd, Brigadier Eowcroft received intelligence that the force under the Nazim Mahomed Hossein, of about 2000 or 3000 men, with six guns, had left his fort at Bungaon, and with the utmost effrontery encamped only six or eight miles distant from our camp higher up the river, evidently with a view of crossing over and joining Balla Eao. On the 3rd of December, a portion of the force under the command of Brigadier Eowcroft, went out to attack him. Two guns and fifty men of the Naval Brigade, under Captain Sotheby, C.B., 350 of s 258 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL H.M.'s 13th Light Infantry, a detachment of Sikhs, the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, a detachment of the 27 th Madras Native Infantry, with four guns of Captain Cadell's battery — about 850 men of all arms— went out about half-past five in the morning, and about eight o'clock found the enemy protected behind mud walls and earthworks, in the village of Bururiah, and in two large woods with a thick forest and jungle to retire to behind. There was some broken ground in front, a difficulty which was soon overcome. The enemy opened fire with three guns and musketry, when Captain Sotheby's two guns in the centre, and two of Captain Cadell's on the loft, with two others in charge of Captain Highmoor on the right, quickly responded. The enemy at first stood their ground more firmly than usual, the naval guns and Madras battery playing upon them with round-shot, shell, -and grape. They held to their trenches ROUND THE WORLD. 259 obstinately, until tlie steady and resistless advance sliook their resolution. The sea- men and marines went close up to their works in front in skirmishing order, under a heavy fire, while the Sikhs and a company of the 13th skirted the jungle to the left; the enemy then finding themselves threat- ened on the flank, relinquished their position and commenced a retreat. And being favoured by the woods and thick cover, they managed to get their guns over a small river where there was a ford, and into the forest, where they were driven after a two hours' combat, having been expelled from the woods and villages. The rebel force becoming scattered, there were several parties who seemed to go " on their own hook" as they expressed it, and took a few "pot shots" at any stray Sowars who might be fluttering about. On any of them making their appearance, *' crack," " crack," quickly followed, and his retreat was either s2 260 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL hastened, or he fell. The loss of the enemy was reckoned to be between thirty and forty ; two seamen were wounded, and of the other corps, there were about twelve wounded. The number of hair-breadth escapes were about the same as usual on these occasions, such as a bullet through some part of the clothes, or having a badge taken off a helmet, or some trifle of that sort. After a short halt, the force returned to camp, fatigued and hungry, at three o'clock in the afternoon. ROUND THE WORLD. 261 CHAPTEE XII. The Rebels enclosed in a Net — ^The Force encamped at Intwa — Obedience of Elephants — The Force marches into Oudh — Battle of Toolseepore — The Siege Train — The Town of Toolseepore after the Battle. On the 5th of December, the bridge of boats was complete, and the Naval Brigade crossed to the north side of the river. The sick and wounded were sent to Bustee, to the field hospital, and now Brigadier Eowcroft's column was moving northward inclining to the west so as to enclose the shattered forces of the Begum, which were hemmed in on all sides in the northern district of Oudh. The Commander-in-Chief, Lord Clyde, was moving down upon them from the westward. Sir Hope Grant, with a large force of ^cavalry, was moving up from the south, and Brigadier Eowcroft's 262 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL column was drawing round from the east, while the Nepaul jungles were on the north. Here the last grand smash was to take place of those marauding mutineers who had made many a home sad for the previous two years. And with this grand finale, the " Pearl's" Naval Brigade wound up their two campaigns in India. The arrange- ments were admirably made. The southern districts of Oudh had been cleared by the numerous flying columns which had tra- versed it in every direction, and they were all hunted up into this one corner of the country. The Queen's well-timed proclama- tion had been read, and many availed them- selves of the royal clemency ; but all those who could not convince themselves that any Government could be so merciful as to extend the golden sceptre of favour after all that had been perpetrated, or still clinging to the last hope in a failing cause, fled to the north, expecting, when unable to ROUND THE WORLD. 26^ tstand in the open field, to be able to take shelter in the jungles of JSTepaul. After crossing the river, the force marched to Intwa, leaving a detachment at Doomu- reahgunge to guard the bridge of boats and ghat. The camping ground was an open plain, where we halted for several days, and the siege train, which was handed over to the Naval Brigade, was here parked in front of our camp. The field force now began to muster strong, consisting of the Ferozpore regiment of Sikhs, about 600 men; H.M/s 13th Light Infantry, nearly an equal number ; 300 of the 6th Madras Cavalry, a Madras battery, the Bengal Yeomanry Cavalry, and the Naval Brigade. The several corps were daily drilled in front of the lines, and the band played in the evening for the benefit of those who attended the promenade; the weather at this season is delightful, but it lasts only two or three months. The days 264 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL are not unpleasantly warm, and tlie nights are cool, in fact sometimes they are biting cold; and on going outside the tents soon after sunrise a noble view of the snowy range of the Hymalayas can be seen lifting up to heaven their white crests tinted with a roseate hue, as they glitter in the beams of the rising sun. On the 18th the siege train arrived from Doomureahgunge — two 18- pounders, one 8-inch howitzer, and two 8- inch mortars ; these, in addition to two 5^- inch mortars, were turned over to the ** Pearl's" Naval Brigade. Every seaman and marine was now attached to the siege train, with the exception of those who manned the light field battery of four 12-p^ howitzers and two 9 -pounders. The men had become sufficiently acquainted with the management of horses, bullocks, and elephants to feel quite at home among them. One elephant became quite a pet among the men — rather a clumsy one, we must admit, becoming so ROUND THE WORLD. 265 tame that he paid a daily visit to the several tents to receive donations, in the form of bread, and on his arrival announced himself with the sniff of his proboscis, or a touch of a tent rope. The elephants that are used for beasts of burden are caught in the jungle, and soon become domesticated, but do not breed in a tame state. They are wonderful animals — so powerful, and yet so gentle, so clumsy, and apparently so void of intelli- gence, yet so docile ; they are so capable of resisting, so violent and untameable when they become infuriated, perfectly regardless whom they tread down in their blind rage, and yet generally so obedient to command. When the mahout speaks, he seems to under- stand. When he tells him what to do, he obeys. Occasionally he is brought to the river to bathe ; the mahout standing on his back drives him into the deep water, where he flounders about for some time, projecting the extremity of his trunk above the surface to 2C6 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL breathe. He is then brought to the shallow water, where he lies down on one side, while he is rubbed and washed, and then is turned on the other for the same operation ; all this time paying the utmost deference ta the orders of the mahout. He rolls about like a huge monster, and after playing for some time and apparently enjoying the bath, re- turns to his " moorings," where he is attached to a tree by a chain round his hind leg. Captain Sotheby had now got the com- mand of a formidable armament, and it would have been difficult, if not impossible, to have procured artillerymen at so short a notice so well trained, or better fitted to manage heavy guns. The four mortars were in the charge of Lieutenant Pym, E.M., Light Infantry, and his detachment of Eoyal Marines, and Marine Artillery. It was expected that the rebels would make a last dying struggle at the fortress of Toolseepore in the north of Oudh, and in ROUND THE WORLD. 267 order to finish off the campaign with as little delay as possible, these heavy guns were sent on with the force. Toolseepore was one of the last that held out when Oudh was annexed, and being of great strength it was impossible to say that its owner, who be- longed to the insurgent party, might not^ resist to the last. On the morning of the 20th, the force marched from Intwa to Biskohur on the Oudh frontier : the boundary line between Goruckpore and that kingdom being marked by small pillars two or three hundred yard» apart, ran through our camp, so that some of the force were in Goruckpore and some- in Oudli. The morning was as dismal a» both tradition and experience combine to prove a December morning I/O be. The road was wretchedly bad, owing to heavy rains that usually fall at this season of the yearj a thick mist enveloped everything, and through it the sun made sundry abor- 268 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL tive efforts to sliine. The cold, early in the morning, was intense, and the damp mist rendered it still more so. The horses sunk in the mud up to their knees, and many of the baggage-carts did not arrive on the camping ground until late that night ; the bullocks being unable to drag them along with their wheels becoming embedded in the tenacious liquid mud. When the tents were pitched, rain threatened, and a small trench was dug round the frail tenement to catch the water, and a little embank- ment was thrown up all around to keep it out; and on the 22nd, the force marched to Groolereah Grhat, and encamped on the bank of the Boora Eaptee, not more than five miles from Toolseepore, where the enemy were assembled in great force. Brigadier Eowcroft had an interview with Sir Hope Grant the same day, from whom orders were received to attack the rebels on the following morning. The Brigadier suf- ROUND THE WORLD. 269 fered a severe loss this day in the departure of the 1st Punjab Cavaby, which went e^i route for the Commander-in-Chiers camp, and being on the eve of a battle, if their services had been secured for one day longer, the success would have been much more complete and satisfactory. They are a noble corps, well mounted, and a fine race of men ; they go by the name of Hughes' Horse, and are an irregular regiment, a sort of yeomanry ; the troopers belonging to a respectable class in their own country, sup- plying their own horses, and being paid a liberal monthly allowance. In lieu of them H.M/s 53rd regiment was sent to join our forces, and arrived that night, and although a regiment of veterans than whom none could do their work better, a cavalry regi- ment was much more required at that time. 23rd of December. — Having had an early breakfast this morning, at half-past six o'clock the tents were struck, and the bag- 270 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL gage was packed, so as to be ready to follow at the conclusion of the action. The force forded the river between nine and ten o'clock ; the siege train from its cumbrous- ness occupying some time, but considering the steepness of the banks, and the nature of the soil, was transported with more speed than would have been anticipated. The large guns were drawn by elephants, and the mortars by twenty-four bullocks. "When the whole force had crossed, the line was formed, and, under the orders of Brigadier Eowcroft, advanced towards the enemy, who were seen about two miles distant on an extensive open plain, with a few villages scattered here and there, which the}^ turned to account by occupying them with a party of infantry and guns. They were, as usual, well aware how to make use of every avail- able position, which was as expeditiously relinquished when hard pressed, as it was originally well chosen. ROUND THE WORLD. 271 H.M/s 13th Light Infantry, under the command of Lord Mark Kerr, took ground on the extreme right ; on their left was the Madras battery of four guns, under Captain Oadell, and the Bengal Yeomanry Cavahy (200 sabres) ; on the extreme left of the line were a body of the 27th Madras Native Infantry, and between 200 and 300 of the 6th Madras Cavalry; next on their right was H.M.'s 53rd regiment, under Colonel English, and between the 53rd and the Ferozpore regiment of Sikhs, under Colonel Braxier, were the four naval guns y^ >,, and two 24-lb. rocket tubes under the command of Commander Turnour, E.N. Lieutenant Maquay and Mr. C. Foot, mid- shipman, being also attached to the bat- tery. The Naval Brigade and siege train, under the command of Captain Sotheby, C.B., kept as close to the line as the nature of the ground, which was inter- sected with small watercourses, would admit. 272 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL All the men, both seamen and marines, were now turned into gunners ; so that, with the exception of the four 12-p'' howitzers and rockets, there was little opportunity for the others to take part in the action ; these, with which Captain Sotheby was ever pre- sent, pushed on to the front, and notwith- standing the rough character of the ground, were conspicuous for the rapidity of their movements, and the speed of their advance in close proximity to the skirmishers of the 53rd, as they pursued and routed the enemy. " Come on, boys," said some of the soldiers, and Jack limbered up, vowed he would go anywhere, and on he dashed, managing the horses and guns with such activity and readiness, that some of them said, using an expletive better suppressed, "Well, I'll believe anything about sailors after this." On the right, the 18th attacked a village, where a large body of rebels with a gun had taken up a position under cover of the mud KOUND THE WORLD. 273 walls ; as they advanced tlie enemy kept up a heavy fire of shot and musketry, but the soldiers entered it with a rush, took one gun at the point of the bayonet, and bayoneted the gunner who persisted in sticking to his idol* to the last. Another gunner was found with his brains blown out, apparently with his own hand, seeing no chance of escape. On the left, the 53rd, the Sikhs, the four naval guns, and the two 24-lb. rocket tubes, were pushed rapidly forward. The rebels here seem to have stood their ground much better than usual. They waited under cover of a bank of a nullah until the troops came within 150 yards of them, and reserving their fire until they thought themselves sure of the object, discharged a volley, and then fled before the undaunted advance of the 53rd. This regiment then charged a body of rebels, who were drawn up in support of a * The natives almost, if not altogether, worship their guns. 274 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL gun, and almost came up with them, but being completely " blown" by the distance they were obliged to run, were unable to get to close quarters with men whose agility is proverbial; the enemy soon made their escape, and succeeded in getting their gun off also. It is in such cases as this that the loss of cavalry has so often been felt ; infantry doing all that infantry can do, but being quite unable to do the work of cavalry into the bargain. The siege train in charge of Commander Grant, E.N., kept up close in rear of the line, but had only an opportunity of firing one or two rounds on a village held by a party of the insurgents on our left rear. In an hour and a half, the rebels being completely routed and driven back, the Eerozpore regiment of Sikhs, a noble corps, pushed on well in front, and were the first (after the rebel army had retired) to enter the fort of Toolseepore, which was found ROUND THE WORLD. 275 deserted. The rebels, numbering about 300 cavalry, 12,000 infantry, and several guns, came down in three columns, and after having deployed into line, extended to a great distance on the left and right. Sowars were galloping up and down in front of their line, probably encouraging them to exterminate the Feringhees; but their re- sistance was of short duration, and their cavalry never ventured to charge. One gun was taken by H.M.'s 13th Light Infantry, and one by H.M/s 53rd, which was left behind when the line advanced, and on re- turning in search of it, it could not be found. Our force of all arms in the field was about 2,500 men, and our loss was four killed and several wounded, in addition to two or three dlioolee bearers, who were olsa kiUed. The loss of the enemy could not be easily ascer- tained, but must have been considerable, many were left on the field, besides many others who,no doubt, were carried ofi^when wounded. t2 276 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL On arriving about 1500 yards from the fort, the siege train halted, and a man was seen on the rampart hoisting something which in the distance looked like a flag. At first those attached to the siege train fancied that their turn had arrived, and were making preparations for action ; but it soon appeared that the man was a Sikh who had entered the fort which the enemy had evacuated in the morning to give battle, and after the defeat thought it wiser not to re- enter. No doubt, as their information was generally better than ours, they heard of the heavy pieces of ordnance that were in the field, and the stalwart men that manned them. Whether the rumour that got afloat among them that seamen were little men, who carried these pieces of artillery under their arm, or not, it is impossible to say ; but from the very absurd stories which were circulated among them by designing men, and which were implicitly believed, when to ROUND THE WORLD. 277 the prejudice of the Europeans or Grovern- ment, it may justly be argued that they would believe almost anything. The fort was constructed in the form of a square, surrounded by a deep ditch, filled with w^ater, and inside the ditch thick mud- walls and bastions ; there were houses, a garden and magazine inside, and sufficiently extensive to contain a large force. The powder and arms were destroyed. Two unhappy accidents occurred in the evening after the action. The troops sat down on the ground to rest, and a private of the 53rd, when taking up his rifle, which he had left on full cock, thoughtlessly held the muzzle towards him, and a twig catch- ing the trigger, caused it to go off, shooting him through the breast. Instantaneous death ensued. And in the evening a soldier of another regiment, under the effects of drink, fired off his rifle through a tent, shooting one Sikh, and wounding ^78 THE CRUISE OP THE PEARL another. He was immediately put under arrest to await his trial. It fell to my lot the following morning to commit the remains of the Europeans that fell in action to a soldier's grave. This was the last action in which the •*' Pearl's" Naval Brigade took a part, and it was the last general action that took place during the mutiny ; the war being declared over on the first day of the new year, in the following week. The rebels now held no place of any importance, but were scattered about, ohiefly on the borders of the jungle skirting Nepaul. After the defeat they retired about six miles, but their position was quite untenable, being hemmed in on all sides, the only outlet being into Nepaul. Our camp, which had been struck and packed in the morning, was sent for and arrived late that evening; much of the baggage, owing to the nature of the ground ROUND THE WORLD, 279 and the total absence of roads, not coming up until the middle of the night or next day. The troops soon retired to snatch some rest, and prepare for a renewal of the action the following day; but the exces- sive rains rendering the ground a swamp, caused the movement to be postponed one day more, which brought us to the 25th ; and, in spite of it being Christmas-day, all prospects of peace and quietness were banished. After an early breakfast the troops " got under way." A guard was lefb in the camp, but before marching half- a-mile, intelligence arrived that the rebel force had broken up ; their leaders going off in different directions. The troops then returned to camp to prepare the Christmas dinner. The town of Toolseepore now presented a most desolate appearance; it was burnt the day of the action, and the walls of the houses alone were standing ; its streets were 280 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL rather more regular than usual in native towns, and built in a cruciform shape, one street running at right angles to the other- There were evident signs of the scourge of war in every direction ; in one place the ghastly corpse, which lay unburied, and what was still stranger, which had escaped the jackal and the vulture ; in another place a pool of water mingled with blood, giving evidence of the resting-place of the slain which had been removed. Here and there miserable-looking mortals might be seen among the ruins, some, perhaps, camp- followers, looking for loot or concealed treasure; others, perhaps, the former owners in disguise, seeking to recover the imperishable metal from the general wreck ; and some were wretched, decrepid, attenu- ated mendicants, to whom the streets may have been a patrimony, but now being left friendless, and having nothing apparently to live for, looked as if it was a matter of ROUND THE WORLD. 281 perfect indifference how soon tliey were called upon to die. Such are the sad re- sults of war. Well may it be regarded the heaviest scourge that can befal a nation. It not only renders many a wife a widow, and many a family fatherless, and many 'a house sad, and many a heart sick ; but an invading army carries desolation wherever it goes, marching, perhaps, through riclily cultivated land, where the crops of standing corn, which have been cultivated with care, and toil, and expense, are trodden down and destroyed by horses, by elephants, by oxen, by artillery and men ; and in addition to this, its tendency to deaden the principles of religion, by often being obliged, in self- defence, to meet the enemy on days held sacred among Christian nations, and by accustoming men to regard life as of little value, and hardening instead of awakening them to a sense that they are beings des- tined to live for ever. 282 THE CRUISE 01' THE PEARL CHAPTER XIII. Ohristmas-day, 1858 — March to Pepyreah — Sir Hope Grant's Flying Column — March to Puchpurwah — Naval Brigade ordered to the Ship — The Farewell — Governor-General's Opinion of the Naval Bri- gade — Dinner given to the Seamen at Calcutta — Dinner given to the Officers at Madras — Voyage Home — Names of Officers. The troops had no sooner settled down in <;amp than Sir Hope Grant arrived, having ridden over in the morning from his own force, which was posted more to the south- ward; and after a conference held with Brigadier Eowcroft, farther intelligence having, in the meantime, arrived, that the rebels were making all speed to get to the eastward along the Tarai,'^' orders were issued that the force should immediately follow in pursuit. The great object was to * A belt of jungle between British India and Nepaul. ROUND THE WORLD. 283 prevent tliem from escaping in that direction, lest they should again inundate Groruckpore and perhaps BengaL The Christmas dinner, already in process of preparation, was com- pletely " knocked on the head.'^ The tents were struck, the baggage was packed, and the force started oiT to the northward, in- clining towards the east, to intercept them in their line of march. H.M/s 53rd Eegiment was left to hold Toolseepore, and prevent any escape in that direction, while the force under Briga- dier Rowcroft commenced the march about noon, passing over a country without roads, fording nullahs, and crossing dykes. The baggage -carts were unfortunate in getting into holes, and ruts, and heavy ground. Occasionally one would capsize, and another would stick in a ditch, three feet deep in mud, obstinately obstructing the progress of all the others that followed. The siege train, composed of heavy guns and mortars. 284 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL drawn by elephants and bullocks, was some- times in a " regular fix," being completely stuck in the mud ; but by patience and per- severance, and no small share of exertion on the part of the seamen and marines, it arrived at the camping-ground in the evening, the last of them being parced about ten o'clock p.m. A strong reconnoi- tring party, under Lieutenant-Colonel Cox,, had been sent out after the enemy early in the day, and came up with their rear-guard; but darkness setting in, it was impossible to pursue further, and he returned to the camp. Very little baggage made its appearance until the following morning, and some un- lucky ones did not see their carts for three consecutive days. Fortunately the tents were pitched a little before dark, and those who had no charpoy, retired to rest on a bed of straw scantily supplied, on wet ground. There was not much in the proceedings of the Christmas-day to remind campaigners ROUND THE WORLD. 2S5 of the peace and quietness that prevail at this season of the year in favoured lands. There was no reunion of friends, but a hot pursuit of enemies ; the bell of the village church was not heard to toll, but the shrill notes of the bugle were frequently sounding; in fact, there was nothing to remind of "home." The men breakfasted early that morning, and being ordered to strike the camp before dinner was ready, in addition to a wearisome march, they were obliged to fast until late at night. It fared a little better with the officers. The kansama, or head native steward of our mess, no sooner arrived on the camping-ground, than he lit a fire, and then having speared a turkey, a brace of geese, and a brace of fowls on a long iron spit, put them to roast horizontally in front, while a ham and other dinner appurtenances w^ere deposited in their respective pots on the top of it. Having then spread rugs on the 286 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL ground before a blazing fire, many, after a fatiguing day, lay stretched, getting the benefit of the heat, which was as acceptable as on a cold Christmas night in England. It was a misty, dark, and damp night. But campaigners must rough it and make them- selves as comfortable, in spite of appear- ances, as the circumstances will admit. British officers lying before the fire on one side, and a dozen of kitmutgars on the other, sitting down on their hunkers, shrunken with the nipping cold, formed a picture sufficiently grotesque for Fundi — the whites vis a vis with the blacks, and a blazing wood fire extending longitudinally between them, lighting up their faces and forming a group of whom one party strongly contrasted with the other. After exercising a fair share of patience, at the fashionable hour of half-past ten o'clock, dinner was served up, and in the course of an hour all had retired to snatch a few hours' rest. ROUND THE WORLD. ' 287 Next morning was cliarming, and the Hymalayas rose to view in all their gran- deur. We were not further distant from the nearest spur in the Nepaul territory than fifteen or sixteen miles, and notwithstanding that the highest range was probably sixty or seventy miles distant, their great height and the pure atmosphere caused them to appear comparatively close. But it was not a time to indulge in a reverie on scenery. The rebels were fast getting to the east- ward of us, skirting the jungle, and conse- quently the force marched with as much speed as a country without roads w^ould permit a force to travel, which was encum- bered with hackeries for the carriage of baggage and a siege train besides. By sun- set we arrived at Pepyrea, and encamped on ground which was almost in every direction a swamp, in consequence of the recent rains. At this season it is more agreeable to march during the day than at three o'clock in the 288 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL morning, which is usual in India. The cold at that hour is bitter, but during the day the climate is a delightful temperature. The transition from heat to cold in the course of twenty-four hours may be trying to some constitutions, but taking all things into consideration, during the cold season it is very enjoyable. On the following morning we recrossed the Boora Eaptee, marched to Intwa, and pitched the tents on the old camping- ground. Here we found Sir Hope Grant encamped with his flying column, consisting of Hodson's Horse (Punjabees), a troop of Koyal Horse Artillery; also the 9th Lancers, who, notwithstanding the rough life, looked in as good condition as if they had just been reviewed in Hyde Park. There were no hackeries drawn by bullocks allowed to march with this column. All the baggage was carried either on ponies or camels, in order that, at any moment, they might be ROUND THE WORLD. 289 able to go a great distance without impedi- ment or delay. The multitude of camels employed was very great, and the amazing distance these animals can travel with a heavy load, and without food or water, renders them of enormous value in carrying baggage, and constitutes a flying column of great efficiency, at any moment being ready to start off and intercept the enemy wdien they least expect any opposition. It was by this means Sir Hope Grant was so successful in coming up with the rebels so frequently, and denuding them of such a multitude of guns. On the 28tli there was a halt to refresh man and beast, the cattle not having had an opportunity of being regularly fed for three days ; w^hile Sir Hope Grant with his flying column started off towards the north to intercept the rebels in their flight to the eastward. Brigadier Eowcroft's force fol- lowed next day, and came up with Sir H. V 290 THE CRUISE OF THE PEARL Orant's encampment at Dhokohuree. No other stronghold being in the possession of the rebels, the siege train was no longer required ; it was therefore left behind, and the Naval Brigade were relieved of the labour it incurred in dragging it over such a roadless region. The light field-guns and rockets were the only artillery that was now manned by the seamen; and they returned to the ranks again to do the duty of light infantry. The men of the Naval Brigade were always on excellent terms with their companions in arms : they seldom were long in camp with any corps without leaving them as friends. Sometimes when a swell trooper commenced poking fun at Jack, he was always ready with his answer, giving as good a piece of humour as he received. Occasionally a little badinage was interchanged about Jack's