m:mm: 'i >!■ ■;■ ■ A 'Trip fo The Hawaiian Island WITH THE PRESS CONGRESS OF THE WORLD By Orville Elder \ t^^^jL^r^ KAMEHAMEHA 1. — IN STONE, HONOLULU He consolidated the several tribes of the Hawaiian Island into one kingdom. (At the foot of the statue a faithful worshiper.) A TRIP TO THE Hawaiian Islands WITH THE PRESS CONGRESS OF THE WORLD BY ORVILLE ELDER PUBLISHED BY The Evening Journal WASHINGTON, IOWA COPYRIGHT 1922 ELDER. SHANNON & CO. G TO Josephine and Dave Who Stayed at Home While I Wandered CONTENTS Page Letter 1 — On the Way to Hawaii 15 Letter 2 — Rolling Through Kansas 18 Letter 3 — In New Mexico 21 Letter 4 — At Albuquerque 24 Letter 5 — 'More About Albuquerque 27 Letter 6 — At the Grand Canyon 31 Letter 7 — Down Bright Angel Trial 35 Letter 8 — Along the Way 44 Letter 9 — A Few Hours in Frisco 48 Letter 10 — At Sea 53 Letter 11 — Peggy Transfers 57 Letter 12 — The Matsonia 63 Letter 13 — Water, Water Everywhere 69 Letter 14 — Drawing Near to Land 73 Letter 15 — On Land Again 76 Letter 16 — The First Day on Shore 81 Letter 17 — The First Day on Shore (Continued) 87 Letter 18 — First Session of Congress 92 Letter 19 — Touring the Islands 9 8 Letter 20 — An Evening at Hilo ' 104 Letter 21 — Along the Coast of Hawaii 110 Letter 22 — The Volcano Kilauea 113 Letter 23 — The Volcano Kilauea (Continuedi 118 Letter 24 — -The Volcano Kilauea (Continued) 124 Letter 25 — Volcanic Pranks 132 Letter 26 — Kilauea in Daylight 138 Letter 27 — Mr. Kawasaki Talks 143 Letter 28 — The House by the Sun 150 Letter 29 — The World's Press Congress 161 Letter 30 — Seventeen Varieties 169 Letter 31 — The Leprosarium 174 Letter 32 — Our Hawaiian Army 184 Letter 33 — A Beautiful Temple 190 Letter 34 — A Visit to Pearl Harbor 198 Letter 35 — A Friend at Court 207 Letter 36 — The Plantations and Old Hawaii 213 Letter 37 — A Rotary Meeting 220 Letter 38 — "The Yellow Jacket" 227 Letter 39 — Incidentals 234 Letter 40 — The Maui Sail^ 242 Letter 41 — A New World 249 Letter 42 — On Land Again 259 At Home 266 Delegates and Guests — Press Congress of World 268 ILLUSTRATIONS Page Frontispiece — Kamehameha I 4 Grand Canyon. Colorado River 37 Down Bright Angel Trail 41 Indian Woman Weaving Blanket 45 "Peggy" 58 The Matsonia 65 Walter Williams 91 Group on Matsonia 99 A Hilo Beauty 105 Halemaumau 114 On Edge of Halemaumau 119 "Peggy" and "Bill" 126 James Wright Brown 165 Swimming at Waikiki Beach 168 Some Shady Nook 192 A Beautiful Temple 195 Native Hawaiian Boys 211 A Pineapple Field 214 Hula Hula Dancers 217 Gov. Wallace R. Farrington 225 Cal. and Mrs. Edward F. Lawson 238 Mr. and Mrs. Goldthwaite 244 "Where the Tall Corn Grows" 246 "After the Ball W^as Over" 258 Mr. and Mrs. Frank C. Edgecombe 264 PREFACE Tliree weeks time in Hawaii is not long- enough for one- to see and know all about Hawaii, but the conditions under which the writer moved while there made it possible for him to see a great deal in a short while. The letters which comprise this little volume were written on train, on boat, in hotel room, or wherever it was possible to find footing for a small portable typewriter and pound off a few lines. They are published in this compact form, not because tliey are entitled to any great con- sideration from the reading public, but because I found it impossible to supply the demand for exchange copies, of our paper — The Evening Journal, Washington, Iowa — containing the let- ters. My product became too voluminous for exchange circulation. I desire in this connec- tion to acknowledge the very great debt which, in common with the many other World's Press Congress delegates, I owe to the various Hawai- ian committees who saw to it that there was not a dull moment during our stay on the is- lands. The newspapers of Hawaii, the various Commercial and Social Organizations; the Chin- ese Society; the Japanese publications and peo- ple; the native Hawaiians; the heads of the leading industries of the islands; the officials of the Hawaiian territory, of the cities of Hon- ohilu, llilo, Knliuliii, ^\^•lial^l;l, W'alluku, IjU- liaina and llic iiiultitiidc of oUkt kindly dis- ]10S(m1 citizoiis who coiili-ibiitcMl oi' tlicii" iiiiic aiul tlicii" sid)stan(*(' to mak'c us ]];\\v a ^ood lime. TlicN' arc all i^'ood follows; lU'ver to l)e f org'otton ; always to be r('iiieml)ered with "grati- tude by the delegates to tlie Press Cono-ress of the AVorld. Alolia! orvillp: elder WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 15 Li^rrTEH I. On the Way to Hawaii Somewhere in Kansas, September 30, 1921 This is the story of a trip to the World's Press Congress, to be held in Hawaii, Oahu, Hawaii territory, October 16tli to 21st. The World's Press CongTess is an international as- sociation and the program will be internation- al in character. In the seat jnst ahead of me is a gentleman from Athens, Greece. His English is rather ])roken, bnt that does not interfere with his appearing like a very intelligent and highly cnltnred gentleman. We left Chicago Thursday evening, the 29th, and we are jnst now leaving Kansas City. We are traveling in a special Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe train, all Pullman cars, with diner, buffet and observation cars attached. We could ask for no more luxurious accommodations or more genteel personal service. And the "eats!" Well, it's just the same as if Mr. and Mrs. "Fred Harvey" were both traveling with us and pre- siding over the table themselves. We will not stop for any length of time un- til we reach the Grand Canon of the Colorado where we will remain for a day, taking in as much of the grandeur of that scenic wonder as a day will permit. We are supposed to reach San Francisco the morning of the 4th of October and sail at about 4 p. m. of the same day. Our ship outgoing w^ill be the Matsonia, an American vessel of the Matson Navigation Co. lines. It will take about six days of water trav- el to reach Honolulu and a few days will be spent there before the Congress program is pre- 16 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS sented. The entertainment featnres of the trip include a tour of the islands with exceptional advantages for seeing the interesting sights of this distant part of the United States. Yes, along with its other conveniences our train carries barber shop and valet service for men and women. Most of us don't know what valet service is, but we're not confessing our ignorance. I overheard one gentleman say that he and his wife had brought their dress clothes. He thought maybe they would "dress" for din- ner on the boat. Clearly some of us are out of our; class, but that need not interfere with our fun. On one other boat trip which I took years ago we discovered that in fact, there is not so much dressing for dinner as there is "undress- in. 2'." I have found but two other Iowa peo])le on the train so far. They are Golthwaite of Boone and Medary of Waukon. Mr. Medary was on the trip to Panama with the National Editorial Association a few years ago. At that time he and I became ac<|uainted. It lias been a ])leas- ure to renew that ac<|uaintance. However, there is little formality in evidence here. Erstwhile strang(*rs Avill soon be long time ac(|uaintances, and there will be a noticeable relaxation of re- straint as the delegates draw nearer and nearer together around the deck railings s]:)eaking the interesting, explosive language common to most land lul)bers on their first voyage away out up- on the deep blue sea. Perhaps a word more about the Press ( on- gress will not be out of place at this time. The ideal of the Congress is "world peace." The great ]mblishers of this country as well as of other countries realize that peace among the newspapers of the country will mean world j-eace, oi- a nearer approach to it. They know WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 17 that the Press, in a large way, is llie audience that st.iiuls around tlie possible belligerents and "sieks" them on. The press "stii's" up, or it "(|uiets down," ])acifies. The mendjers of this Congress feel that the furtherance of interna- tional journalistie amity will do mueli toward making world i)eace more nearly ]^ossible. Our readers will agree with us that tlie ideal is a good one. I feel that all such movements as this World Press Congress tend to make our world a bet- ter woi'ld. We have yet a great deal of our aboriginal savagery to get out of our systems before we will anyways nearly be fit for para- dise. These efforts to establish an understand- ing among the nations of the world is a right direction movement. I have just taken a moment to speak to our Grreek friend in the seat ahead. His name is Coutoui)is, and he is the publisher of the "Nea Ewas," (New Greece), Athens. He left Greece in Julv and he goes clear around on his way home, via Japan, China, India, Egypt, etc. He is one of the speakers at the Congress and we look for some "good gravy" from Greece. 18 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER II. Rolling- Through Kansas still in Kansas, September 30, 1921 Passing through Topeka, Kansas, Gov. Henry Allen was clown to the train to see Mrs. Allen off with the delegates to the Congress. Henry, like Andy Gump, will now have the op- ])ortnnity to do as he pleases for a few days. Governor Allen has too nineh business on hands to go on the trip. He is a i)ublislier though and as such could easily qualify for the journey. Since he can't go, he's sending the "missus," which is at least the next best thing, if not the best. Speaking of the governor makes one think of his Industrial Court plan, an honest effort to get justice for both capital and labor without disturbing that more important justice to the general public. This Industrial Court arrange- ment in iKansas enjoys the distinction of being in ill favor at times with both labor and ca]jital, with some of both industrial divisions always grouchv over the alleged interference of the In- dustrial Court with their liberties. At present Alexander Howat, president of the Kansas Miners organization is under sen- tence to jail for defying the Industrial Court order and calling the miners to strike. He says he is going to go to jail and stay there until the Industrial Court law is taken off the statute books of Kansas. When the ]iower to call strikes is taken away from Alexander there isn't much left for him to do. Gov. Allen states that there are some $50,- 000,000.00 a year paid out in salaries to such WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 19 iiu'ii as llowat, and lie is not sui'itriscd that tliey liate to see tlieir ,iol)s jeopardized. But, tlie tie ii|» of business which causes the great mass of tile ])eo|)le to suffer princii)ally, while a small perceuta<;e of the i)eople re]U'eseuted by the par- ticular owners and lal)orers affected are quar- leiini;-, is a public menace, uufair in every way to the majority, which should be considered first and so this Industrial Court bars strikes and lockouts and forces the disputants into court for the settlement of their differences. In theory the Industrial Court idea is cer- tainly rif^ht. Such dis|)utes as it seeks to settle are disputes that ought to be settled by peace- a))le means without a general disturbance of business and without people suffering. That's what courts are for and the courts are our final resort; if they fail, we might just as well shut up sho}i. Some such system as that devised by Governor Allen must eventually be put into o]> eration in this country if we are to retain any semblance of industrial order permanently. Althougii it is persistently asserted that the miners have in almost all instances been the beneficiaries in the Industrial Court decisions yet it is still the fact that they fight the law, encouraged by such leaders as Howat, who can very easily find plenty of ammunition with which to l)ombard that policy which threatens his job and promises the eventual elimination of the strike as a means of forcing a surrender in favor of the striker. Governor Allen is em- phatically of the reasonable opinion that any system of industrial disordei- that permits the health, safety and comfort of the many to be deliberately disturbed by the few is a wrong- system and he insists upon court settlement. I^p to date he has been able to get by witli it, but he has a fight on his hands. 20 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS This is evening' of tlie first day out. All day we have been riiniiiiig through Kansas. Now it is western Kansas with its oceans of great flat fields, from which splendid crops have l)een raised this year. As an agricultnral state, though, Kansas has felt the sting of low prices for farm i)rodncts even as we have felt them. Talking with a Kansas man this afternoon he led me to believe that the people of Kansas have had just about the same experiences that we have had. They have suffered, but they are not dismayed. As this Kansas man remarked: "We always have to sober u}) after a drunk," and there is an unfailing reaction as a part of the sobering process. The wonder is that the reaction was not worse. WITH WORLDS PRESS CONGRESS 21 LF/rTER III. In New Mexico En Route, October 1, l'.t21 All of yesterday, Friday, we traveled thru Kansas. Some time last ni.^lit we left Kansas, crossed a corner of Colorado and now we are traveling- tlirongli the monntains of New Mex- ico. We have just passed thronoh Glorieta, the head of Glorieta pass, at an altitude of 7421. It is Glorieta in name only, unless there are cer- tain specially glorious features, not in visual evidence, that take precedence over the artifi- cial structure of the alleged village. But, the mountains are interesting; great oceans of mountains, covered with scrubby pines, some high, some low, some thickly wood- ed, some sparsely wooded. Rocks everywhere; thrown about carelessly. Rocks of all sizes, as small as a pigeon egg, as large as a box car. The grass is dry, the shrubbery brown. Goats are the only domestic animals in large evidence. An occasional cow in sight; a few burros; a scrawny horse, cdobe huts here and there, scattered thru the hills; a little patch of corn once in awhile, indicating that some ambitious Mexican had sought to grow a little forage for his family of domestics, but all in all it is pretty barren. _ A fellow traveler voiced the opinion this morning that ''this certainly is God's country — no one else would want it. " Be that as it may, it has its purpose in the world; if none other, it serves to make the in- dividuals who pass this way feel what an insig- nificant i)art of creation, from the bulk point of view, man is. There seems no end to the great 22 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS sweeps of roek-strewii, and pine-decorated space. They must have been brave soldiers in- deed who first penetrated these vastnesses. We have, once in a while found tlie old Santa Fe trail running along by our side. It is a good tourist road they say, one of the best cross-con- tinent higliways. There are a great many points along the way, though, where a shortage of gasoline would leave an autoist in an embar- rassing predicament. Now we are just leaving Apache canyon. This, our little guide book tells us, is the only place on the railroad where it cuts through the oldest strata of the Rockies; and this little pass was the scene of a brave effort on the part of the Mexicans to stop the progress of the Amer- ican army in its invasion of Mexico in 1846. It is said, too, that one of the most important of the westei-n battles of the Civil war was fought near here. At Lam\- we stopped a few moments; just long enough for our party to make a hasty in- spection of the little hotel called the El Ortiz. It is a quaint little structure, Mexican style, the beams in the ceiling taken from an old mission. The floors are car})eted with rare Indian blan- kets; the walls hung with interesting old time ]^a lutings, the subjects being Spanish and Mex- ican in character. There is a beautiful inner court around which is l)uilt the lodging rooms of the hotel. The outer walls are adobe. The structure is artistically scjuatty and in the whole it functions as something decidedly different. Wandering through and around it, one begins to feel as if he is strangely away from home. One lady remarked: "And yesterday this time we were in Kansas City — it seems a thousand J ) years ago. At a short distance from the railwav track — WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 23 we are traveling' slowly now — we see an ndobe house, a fodder covered barn, all one story, a scanty ])atcli of corn, the fodder shocked, in small tepees, A little Mexican boy is skinning the cat from a hitch rack, a dark skinned wom- an watches the train roll by without acknowl- edging the hand wave greetings from the car windows; a prairie dog stands rigid sentinel by the side of his happy home. As far beyond as we can see stretch undulating hills rising high- er and higher until they merge into a great range of treeless mountains — the Great Divide. 24 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER IV. At Albuquerque, New Mexico En Route, October 1, 1921 We spent three lioiirs at Albuquerque, New Mex. This is one of the oldest of the western cities; one of the oldest cities in the United States. The local authorities insist that civil- ization here antedates any other civilizations in the United States. We take no issue with them; we are strangers in this country. Why not be nice and genteel, always, in the presence of benefactors. These Albuquertiue people fed us liberally of the best in the land and took us about through their interesting city. It was not for us to deny the longevity which they ascribe to themselves and theirs. We agreed with them complacently, and admitted that all signs indicate that Santa Pe, the Al- buquerque rival in enterprising claims for an- tiquity is undoubtedly a pretender only. Of course our stay in Albuquerque was en- joyed. Stepping off the train with friend Med- ary from Waukon we were greeted by a tall, slender gentleman who was passing out Albu- querque Journals, FREE of charge. AVe each took one. We have easily acquired the habit of taking every free thing offered us and ask- ing no questions. They are scarce enough with- out entering into any controversy concerning them. *'Do you know a fellow aroiind here by the name of Carl McGee?" friend Medary asked of the liberal man with the arm full of papers. "I am he," responded the ])hilanthropist, "and von are Ed Medarv." WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 25 'I'lurc >()ii li;i\(' it! We attached ourselves to Kd's rriciid ;iiid lie ti'otted us around all over the city in his Cole eight. All)U(|uer(|U(' is a "health resort." It is one of tile most popuhir resorts for tliose who are tlireatened witli tul)ereulosis tliat tliere is in the country. The city lies liigli and dry. There is littU^ rainfall, only seven inches a year, and tliat all comes in July and August. The sani- tariums are beautifully located, and well pat- ronized. There are several thousand peo])le here for their health all the while. That helps to sup])oi"t the town. Looking over the sur- rounding country one wonders if the city has any other supjiorts. The New Mexico state university is here. The buildings are built in typical Mexican style. A new dormitory which is just being completed is constructed in the Pueblo style of architec- ture. A Metliodist school for Indian children is an interesting structure and down in the "old town" we found the adobe houses knit closely together, facing narrow streets that we would call narrow alleys in our Iowa towns. There is not much about the external appenrance of these buildings to recommend them to us as de- sirable homes, but under those squat roofs and within those mud covered walls the romances and tragedies of human life work themselves out just as effectually as they do in the palaces of kings' and queens. There is, in all probabil- ity, just as much real ha])piness in a New Mexi- can Indian home as there is in any other aver- age home in the world. It's all in getting used to it! At the door of the Indian store, in connec- tion with the depot and eating house at Albu- querque, a dozen or so Indian boys and girls, men and women await the arrival of each train 26 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS and its brigade of tourists. They liave Indian wares to sell, little clay baskets, bows and ar- rows, moccasins, flint arrow heads, etc., etc. These Indians are attired in native costmne. Of course they make an interesting- appearance. They add romance and atmosphere to the j^lace. One of the men in charge of the store i)oint- ed out to me several of the Indian girls and boys in tliis gron}) who were well educated in Eng- lish, splendid masters of our tongue. They had been sent to high school, some to college. Com- ing home, they soon went back to their shawls and their blankets, their red ribbons, and their lazy habits. Indian college graduates wrap their l)lankets about them and sleep every night on the brick i)latform of the Santa Fe dei^ot at Albuquerque. Well educated Indian girls come every day to the trains to sell their little trin- kets. They sit lazily about until the trains come. They never ask if trains are late. They sit down and wait, wait, wait. There is no hur- ry. They have all the time there is. Thev take it. ' These educated Indian boys and girls are not disposed to be very communicative. They will not talk to strangers, excepting in an effort to sell their wares, and then they speak few w^ords and brokenh^ They know THEY are curiosi- ties. Education has taught them that. They resent the tourists' attitude and apparently hold our civilization and its foibles in contempt. They cannot get away from the inheritances of centuries. They believe in, and live, the sim- ple life. To them much of civilization is vanity. In that intuition thev have outwitted the world. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 27 LETTKI? \'. More About Albuquerque En Route, October 3, 1921 From our little ftuide book we read that Al- biKiuerquo was founded in 1701, by Don Pedro Rodriguez y Cubero. It is not probable that there are any i^eople in Washington, Iowa, now, who remenilier the event or knew Don Pedro, but local authorities in Albuquerque insist that their city as an established center dates back farther than 1701, in fact, back prior to 1605, the year Santa Fe, New Mexico, claims to have been born. But, as we said in our former com- ment on this controversy, it is none of ours, fight it out yourselves, boys. The Albuquerque patriot claims that the Pueblo Indians have lived in Albuquerque as a village for many centuries. The Pueblo Indians they explain have always been a peaceably in- clined, industrious people, cultivating the soil diligently for many, many hundreds of years. Their deadly enemies were the Apache and Navajo Indians who didn't believe in work in their tribes if they could profit off the labors of other tribes. So, they generally waited until fall, wlien the crops were all harvested, then they went foraging in the vicinity of the Pueb- los. That is, they fell upon the Pueblos and smote them hip and thigh and gathered in all the spoils they could. Naturally the Pueblos disliked the Apache- Navajo system. The fall visits annoyed them, perturbed them, kept them nervous both night and day. There came a time when the Span- iards moved northward from old Mexico and 28 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS with them the Pueblos made terms. They traded their favor to the Spaniards for Spanish help in fii>hting off the Apaches and Navajos. That helped some. After that combination the Pueb- los lived more contentedly and the Ai)ac]ies- Navajos found foraging more difficult. On the theory that Albuquerque was founded by the Pueblos, long before our friend above named ar- rived, the local old timer of Albuquerque bases his claim of greater organized antiquity for Al- buquerque than for Santa Fe. But, as we have previously observed, what is that to you and me with the price of egg sandwiches the same in both cities! And talking about old age! In that wonder- ful museum at Albuquerque, among the multi- tude of relics, modern and otlierwise, there are specimens of sections from the petrified trees found in a number of places in Arizona. The trees are, many of them, "agatized." Geol- ogists state that it has been millions of years since those trees were growing trees. They fell millions of years ago, were umler the oceans many tliousands of centuries before Adam was born. The waters moved away from the face of the earth and there grew over these long inun- dated trees a soil wliicli covered them for many more thousands of years and then there came another change in the great scheme of things and the covering from these trees of so long, long ago was gradually washed and scraped away by the elements. When they came to the light of day again, after millions of years in darkness, they were petrified to the very heart, and the polished face of these tree relics shows it as a most beautiful agate. Here is age, that is age! There is an old Spanish mission church that was erected in 1735 that we visited, too, but we WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 29 didn't <^o ill — it wasn't Sunday. From tlio out- side, tliouf;-!!, llic antiquity of the structure was ai)i)arent in spots. In other spots it looked as if it had been modernized some. The adobe homes and stores give out an unmistakable at- mosi)liere of age, down in the "old town," but up in the heart of the city the buildings are modern and there is an air of prosperity about the town, the basis of which is, however, the constant inflow of money from health seekers and tourists. In Albu(iuerque, too, we gained some inter- esting information about our only woman "con- gressman," Miss Alice Robertson. Mr. McGee lived for several years in Oklahoma and knew the lady. She originally went to Oklalioma as a Presbyterian missionary to work among the Indians. In that capacity she made a wide friendly ac^ < a Q P5 H H Q O O o r- O 38 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS iiUK'li of the time allowing the rein to hang loosely, while I held on to the saddle carefully and leaned toward the high side. These mules seem always to be Imngry and it was frequently a trifle disconcerting when mine would lean out and reach for a piece of twig hanging over the down side of the trail. He had a way, as did all the other mules, of ig- noring the scenery and hunting always for an opportunity to bite something that hung out over a precipice. And then the turns at the so- called corners! The mule would walk right on as if he were going to step over the corner out into nothing, and then, just at the moment when one closes his eyes and begins to say, "Now^ I lay me," Mr. Mule gives a little flip of his body, balances on his rear feet and swings around into the trail in nice shape. The reader should remember at all times that from the top of the canyon to the bottom, over Bright Angel trail, is a drop of 4500 feet. The trail is apparently down the face of the canyon. Of course it isn't. Looking down one does not see. how it is possible that there is a trail there. Looking up it seems equally impossible, more so. In the descent of 4500 feet about seven miles are traveled, but five of those miles no doubt carry four thousand feet of the decline, there being at least a mile across a plateau, between the upper and lower canyons, and about one more mile of slight decline in the bed of a dry .stream. Looking from above into the canyon one can but dimly see lower canyons which are, in fact, as stupendous in proportions as is tlie upper part of the great gash in the earth. Going down, a great wall of rather white rock, a softer stone, perhaps sand stone, reared itself WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 39 to OTir left. We came down between a huge rift in tliis formation. We speculated between cliills on how high this particular precipice was. When we got down to where the formation changed and we were at the beginning of a red stone level, we found a mark explaining that we had made 1000 feet of the trip down. Then it was down, down, for another thou- sand feet or so until we had got to the bot- tom of the red formation, when we struck the plateau and rode across it, then on down, down, down around the cork screw part of the trail where we had to lead our mules and lean back to keep from falling over. Down the next two thousand feet and we found ourselves in the bed of a waterless stream with sheer granite Avails close on each side reaching eighteen hun- dred to two thousand feet above. We followed the bed of that stream down through the tributary canyon for perhaps three- fourths of a mile before we finally turned out into the Colorado river canyon proper. And there we faced the great walls of the opposite side, equally high, equally commanding in ap- pearance and presenting an entirely different view from anything else we had seen. Below, the yellow river rushes along, con- tinuing today as it has through a thousand centuries its task of hewing deeper and deeper into the heart of the earth. When it has torn its course to sea level the canyon will then be such a spectacle as will make today's eighth wonder of the world seem insignificant as com- ])ared to the final product. But you and I will not see that. It will take another hundred thousands of years or so for the Colorado to accomplish its ultimate aim. In the meantime let's enjoy it as it is. How I wish I had words with which to make 40 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS our readers feel the mysterious grandeur of the scenes in this canyon. Rocks, rocks, rocks! Millions and billions and trillions of tons of rocks, thrown here and there and everywhere as if the gods had gone mad and hurled mount- ains at each other. And those canyons: the great big canyon and its little canyons, the smaller models being in themselves so great as to bring a great spell of quiet over us as we invaded their depths. Our little caravan marched on in silence, each one wrapped in deeply stirring emotions. The beat of the hoofs of our mounts upon the rocky path over the smoothly worn stones in the bed of the once deepl}^ flowing stream struck upon the side walls and rang out sliarply and clearly, but we know they were but as the trick- ling of a gentle stream in the great vastness of the precipitous heights. We were in a world of weird wonders. We were insignificant insects wending our curious wavs into the sacred haunts of the spirits of big things. I remembered what the brakeman said: ''Look at that and say there ain't no God, will y'!" and I will not. Looking "at that" one sees God everywhere, and one appreciates more and more the works of God and of God 's hand- maiden, Nature, who moves in a mysterious, de- liberate, painstaking, Init never faltering way, "His wonders to perform." And this Grapd Canyon of the Colorado is a wonder of wonders. The' flowing waters have teeth of steel. They are savvying deep into the heart of the earth and as they go deeper and deeper they spread out before the eyes of wondering man such a pan- orama of beauty as makes us pause. Go on mule. T put my trust in thee and thou hast failed me not! After lunch on the bank of the Colorado, un- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 41 THE START DOWN BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL Four thousand five hundred feet descent to the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River der a wall of granite that towered some thou- sand feet over onr heads affordino- a grateful shade from the sun which beat very "hotly" u])on ns in the narrow canyon, we ]irepared for the trip back to the top. This trij) was to be a less painful one to us although a more diffi- cult one for the mules. The mules seemed to sense that fact for they seemed -a little more peevish when we again apin^oached them pre- paratory to the start. Getting a little too close 4 2 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS to one of the female mules of the party she gently waved a hind foot at me in a consider- ate warning to keep my distance. Here, too, our guide asked me a very im- pertinent question, or so it seemed to me. Pre- viously, during the day, as we stopi^ed briefly at a point in our descent I had asked him why some effort was not made by breeders of horses and mules to produce a species of animal that would have longer legs in front than behind. This suggestion w^as entirely apropos as our reader will readily see. If a mule could be pro- duced that liad front legs, say eight inches longer than his rear legs, then the riders could rest more comfortably going down mountain sides. The riding level would be more nearly maintained. Now as we started up hill at an angle of something like forty-five degrees, the guide aroused himself long enough from his somewhat painful vocal reticence to ask me in rather contemptuous tones: "What in the would you do now with your mule with the long- front legs." I did not deign to answer him. Anyone with common sense knows that if a mule with long front legs could be procured, it would be equally easy to produce one with long rear legs and then tourists could ride down the mountain on mules with long legs in front and up the mount- ain on mules with long legs behind. The prob- lem is a comparatively simple one in breeding. Cross a mule with a kangaroo and get an animal with long rear legs, or cross him with a giraffe and get an animal with long front legs. Ther^^ are a lot of ignorant people in this w^orld. But what a wonderful trip back that was. On we went, mile after mile, persistently com- ing up against impenetrable walls and just as persistently penetrating them. Thousands of WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 43 feet above us we could see the El Tovar liotel From which we had started, and it seemed as if we would never reach it again, but we did, after hours of painful riding and it seemed good to once more be on top. We had, however, made a trip which, because of its various thrills, will never be forgotten and one which gave to us a view of the Grand Canyon that can be had by no other means. You have to go down into it to see it. In onr group who made the descent were Mr. James W. Brown, of the Editor and Publisher, New York City, and his wife "Pickles;" Bill Smith, of Tlie Sun, Waukegan, 111.; J. H. Zerby, Pottsville, Pa., Republican and his two sisters, Elizabeth and Mildred; Miss Mary Hersey, Mil- ton, Mass.; Tliales Coutoupis, Athens; the writer and two or three others wliose real names I don't remember at this moment. It was Mr. Brown who offended our group mightily. Often, just when we were enwrapped in the most transcendently inspiring emotions as we view'ed the stupendous wonders of the canyon tlie cpiiet of our ruminations wonld be disturbed by the harsh reverl)erations of a man's voice calling "Pickles, oh Pi-i-i-ickles!" It was James Wright Brown calling his wife. 44 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER VIII. Along- the Way En Route, October 4, 1921 One of the very interesting- things at the Grrand Canyon station is tlie Hopi House, a min- iature Indian pueblo, built of small stone slabs, an exact reproduction of the old liomes of the Hopi Indians. Inside are the furnishings of an Indian home, in one part of the ho rise, while the other part is used as a museum and as an In- dian store. This l)uilding was erected about twenty years ago, but it was built by Indians and it is a faithful reproduction of the old homes in which these advanced Indians lived before America Avas discovered. It is interest- ing especially because of its uniqueness and its atmosphere of antiquity. At c'.bout 5 :30 of the evening we were there the Indians of the Grand Canyon vicinity put on a special dance for the benefit of the visitors. It was watched with absorbing interest by all, and it certainly was an exhibition of physical agility and endurance, such as one rarely sees. One apparently very old Indian took part in the dance, and in response to an inquiry as to how he could stand such vigorous exercise at his age he said that the "dancing keeps me young.'' Strangely enough we do not remem- ber of ever having seen the Indian women par- ticipating in these festivities; they do, though, no doubt, l)ut it is not on record that they have yet adopted the civilized forms of dancing in which, as Abe Martin says, "nothing is l)arred excepting the toe hold." We doubt very much if old chief "Scalded Face" would be living WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 45 now had lie been I'cnrcd on our modern i'orins of dancing', in wliicli one is said to iive at a mile a minute rate. Old "Scalded Face" lives the simple life, com])aratively. We left Grand Canyon al)Out ten o'clock at niglit and made no other stop of length until about four o'clock Monday afternoon, when we reached Bakersfield, California, one of the most prosperous of the medium sized towns in the state. It is a mining and oil center and a drive INDIAN WOMAN WEAVING A BLANKET over the city under the auspices of the Cham- ber of Commerce of that city was one of the most delightful of our experiences so far. We were taken out to one of the oil fields where there are three thousand producing oil wells and then shown about town. Of course they have a court house, a library, a city hall, a park, a hospital, a high school, a Ford garage, an "old town" and a new town, and they showed them all to us with a commendable pride. Maybe we en- vied them a little. 46 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Tlie hospitality of the Bakersfield men was genuine and all inclusive, and we could not get away from that little city without feeling that in deed and in truth the California way is a real way. In a city near which the pay for oil labor alone is $50,000.00 a day, it is not sur- prising that there are things doing all the while. They speak of millions where we speak of thou- sands. They happen to be one of the very wealthy centers of the state and the town and the citizenship reflect it. From Bakersfield we went directly to San Francisco, winding up our long rid(3 not so very much the worse for wear because the trip had been enlivened by frequent stops at interesting points and there had been such a variety of ex- periences with so much to see that was new and interesting that we did not have time to get tired. The Santa Fe service all along the line has been fine. Having such a large party they ]nit a special man on the train to help in car- ing for the wants of the people and he, ' ' Tom ' ' was everywhere present when he was wanted and at all times most cordial and obliging. One dared not mention a want in his presence un- less he expected to see it gratified if such a thing was reasonable and possible. Another Iowa man has joined us, Eugene Kelley of the Sioux City, Iowa, Tribune. We have quite an Iowa delegation now. New York seems to have the largest delegation of all the states, though. Dean Williams of the Columbia School of Journalism, the present president of the World's Press Congress, and his party joined us at Kansas City. We arrived in San Francisco at about 8 o'clock in the morning and it was immediately apparent that the few liours to be spent in that city were to be hours chuck full of business and pleasure. The sail- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 47 in^- lioiir was four o'clock p. m. and it doesn't take four o'clock long to come when one is busy in a big city. 48 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER IX. A Few Hours in Frisco En Route, October 5, 1921 Frequently I had heard of tlie ''San Fran- cisco Way," or the "California Way." Now I at least know something ahont what the "San Francisco Way" means. We arriv- ed at Ferry Point, across the bay from San Francisco Tnesday morning, Oct. 4th, at ahont 7:30 o'clock. Getting off the train there we waited a little while for the ferry to arrive and when it did arrive there came "with it a del- egation of San Francisco men who threw the gates of the city wide open. This was the printed program passed ont to each member of onr ]iarty as we arrived: 9:00 a. m. — Press party disembarks from ferry at San Francisco ferry station, and after assembling in rotunda of ferry building take automobiles. 9:30 to 10:30 — Men of party at Olympic club, women of party at Woman's Athletic Club, for personal comfort after trip, a short swim for those who desire it. 10:30 a. m. — Re-assemble in automobiles for trip around San Francisco. 12:00 to 2:00 p. m. — Special complimentary luncheon to party at the Cliff House. 2:00 to 3:30 p. m. — Party to continue on sight-seeing tour. Committeemen will be con- trolled by the desires of the party in their respective automobiles. 4:00 p. m. — Escort party by automobiles to S. S. Matsonia, pier 30 for embarkation for Honolulu. We quote the above, just to show the "San Francisco Way." First to the Clubs where those who wished to might bathe, go swimming, etc. At the Olympic club a number of us took WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 49 advantage oi' the sug'gestion that wo try the pool. It is a wonderfully pretty pool, marble lined thronghont, with sea water at a very agreeable temjieratnre in any depths desired. Anyone who has ever been able to paddle around just a little in soft water need not fear sea waiei". It holds one up. In wading around througli the shallower water I stepped on a sharp incline, a little slippery, and before I knew it I was off into water so deep that it was swim or stay in. I swam out without hoist- ing the distress flag toward the frlendh^ guard who was near by. Many of the men, and no doubt many of the women, too, took advantage of that delightful opportunity, which prompted a city speaker later in the day to make the comment that San Francisco was on this occasion entertaining the *' cleanest body" of Journalists that had ever visited the cit}". This speaker also called the especial attention of the people in liis audience to the precautions in hygiene and sanitation that are taken by the officials of the city when they have visitors whose cleanliness is not en- tirely unquestioned. Well, let them have all the fun they want to about it, the fact was the baths were needed and were appreciated, as were the other court- esies of those wonderful clubs. Judging from appearances, we would surmise that one must be a millionaire at least in order to keep the pace of members of the Olympic club. This body of poor newspaper men M^ere given a taste of high life for a few moments, anyway. After that came the ride about the city and it was some ride, done in some style: In the forward car were Mayor Rolph, his chief of police, one or two other city notables and Presi- dent Williams of the Press Congress. This car 50 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS was dr iped at the rear with oiir national colors and on the running' board at either side police officers stood in readiness for any emergency. At tlie rear filed the some fifteen cars carrying the W(/rld press delegates. Frisco was ours! Wherever we went, others less favored stopped to look. Street cars trembled in our presence and hanghtily driven limousines pulled up when our procession struck the street. "Ah," said I to myself, " 'I am Sir Oracle, when I speak let no dog bark.' " Later on, though, after the day was gone and as the quiet of night settled down upon us, far out upon the waves of the wide reaching sea, I thought of another quo- tation, one that I think of oftener and oftener with the death of the days and weeks and months: "Vanity of vanities, all is vanity, say- eth the preacher." All large cities are much the same. I know of no big city in the XTnited States or elsewhere that doesn't have something that is considered the biggest, the best, the prettiest, the most re- markable, the longest, the cleanest there is in the world. Of course, San Francisco is a big city, a beautiful city, a delightful city to live in. So, in fact, are most all cities m the United States. Where one is at home, has friends and a family whom he loves, and who love him, where health is fairly good and a comfortable existence secured, that is the most beautiful place in the world! It is easy enough, then, to conceive how many people may look upon San Francisco as the most beautiful place in the w^orld to live in. They live there and all that they have, and love, in life is there, so to them Frisco is the loveliest of the lovely. It is a bpautiful city, built upon a thousand hills it seemed to us. And we had an excellent chance to see. We were WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 51 led 1 lir:)ii,i;li (lie most l)',';miirnl sli'ct'ls and. parks and into the riiicsi rc.-idctilial ([iiailcrs, and fin- ally t'oi- '* 1iiii('Ikm;ii " (diiiiio]-, at oiii" house) we were taken to tlie Cliff house by the sea side. Yes, it was a diuuei- iu k-e(^])iii,<>' with the other pxtravai^'ances of the day and at the ex- pense of the San Franeisco Clianibev of Com- merce. After the dinner there were addresses by tlie president of the Cliamber of Commerce, Mayor Rol]>]i and Editor De Young, of the San Francisco Clironicle. Of our jiarty the follow- ing s])oke: \'irgilio K. Beteta, Guatemala, (^ol. Frederic W. Ija\vson, London, England, Ex-Sen- ator F. P, Glass, Birmingham, Alabama, and Dean Walter Williams, Columbia, Mo. The after dinner program was ilie usual ex- change of courtesies, the speakers all speaking briefly, the key note of all the remarks center- ing in the thought that the get together idea is the idea to be emphasized now, the world over. It is recognized that the World Press Congress is intended to be an international ef- fort among newspapers to do their part toward creating more cordial relations between the dif- ferent peoples of the world, through the press medium. After the dinner and the toasts the tour of the city was continued down through Golden Gate Park and over the drive that leads some two thousand feet above the city around the twin ])oaks. From that beautiful cement drive one gets such a view of the city as tends almost to make even the lover of other lands and other cities admit that such spectacles are very, very rare. So cordial were these San Francisco people, and so tenacious in their hold upon us that even those of us who had wished to do a little shop- ping in the city, buy a pair of clean socks, a 52 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS liair pill, or two, a shirt, send a telegram, or drop a ])icture postal, were deprived of those joys. We were landed at Pier 30 with barely twenty minntes in which to make the final ar- rangements for sailing. This writer had his small amount of l)aggage still nneheeked and "nnaboard;" ;ind a broken typewriter sent up town to be repaired had not yet made its appearance at the dock; and the manager of our party had my tickets, if any were to lie had, for I had been so late in mak- ing tlio final decision to go on the trip that I had not been fully provided for in advance. But, all was well! "Tom" soon came "moseying along" with my tj^pewriter, "no charges at all, glad to be of service to you;" I found my luggage and a pleasant mannered porter grabJied it and started shii)ward. "I'll drop your bags aft on the upi)er deck, sir," he said and hurried away. I soon found Will Wilke, the manager of our party, densely surrounded liy a grou]) of anxious individuals. I butted in long enough to find tliat I was really l)Ooked for the voyage and got my tickets. I then tried to find a ]ilace from v.iiich to send a telegram to the "dear ones at home" to advise them that we were at the edge of the pond, but there was no office near enough for me to attempt to reach at that late moment, and it was too late to send for a messenger. "I tliink I can make it all right," said a young man in ship uniform near by. "I'm chief bell boy, and you can settle with me when we get out." Away he went on the run, and I hope* the folks at home heard from us; we tried to reach them anvwav." WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 53 LETTER X. At Sea October 6, 1921 Last night on ship board, 42() miles from San Erancisco, I heard over wireless telephone a phonograph record played from the top of the Fairmont hotel in San Erancisco. We heard a man sing, and a few hours before, Mayor Rolpli had telephoned the baseball scores to the ship. Wireless telephony seems marvelous, more mar- velous than wireless telegraphy. Somehow, we can conceive of jarring the ether currents in such a manner that dots and dashes may be re- produced by means of a sympathetic recorder, but to send the human voice through the air, hundreds of miles, with nothing to ride on but invisible currents of electrically charged atmos- phere, that seems a miracle. It really seems but a short while since the regular telephone was a curiosity in the old home town. To the right and to the left, before and be- hind us the beautiful sea stretches its face to the horizon limits. It is a deep blue sea today. We are now the third day out from Erisco and are getting into warmer weather. The sea is so calm and the ship moves so steadily that one hardly realizes that we are moving unless one looks out over the water. But we are moving, moving right along. We haven't stopped since we left Erisco and we have seen no land since we were some few miles out from the Golden Gate and we will see no land for three days more, or until we are at the gates of Honolulu if we follow our appointed course. An Australian 54 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS stcaiuer was in siglit all day vestoi'day and all last night, but now she is behind lis below the horizon. She is traveling on a slower schedule. Tomorrow we expect to meet a steamer l)ound for "home" and we may trade mail. The north- ward bound vessel will get a big bundle of it from this shi]). We left San Francisco at four o'clock the evening of the 4tli, Tuesday. The sailing was picturesque. There seems to be a sort of I'om- ance about sea going that makes the occasion one that appeals strongly to the sentimental emotions. The Press Congress people were all bedecked with gaudily colored jiaper collars. People from the dock and from the ship threw out long streamers of paper ribbon in variagated colors ; boys and girls, young men and young women, older people, too, hang over the deck railings waving their hands and shouting last messages. The whistle blows a short blast, the gang- 1)1 ank is di'agged down, the steamer swings slowly away from dock and we're off. I hasten to search out my state room to find who my companions are to be. There are three beds in each state room and naturally one would wonder who was to share his apartments during the six day voyage. It's a rather intimate re- lationship; lots of chance for quarreling, for crowding, for greed. In the state room I find one of my companions there ahead of me. He is Ludvig Saxe, Christiania, Norway, of the "Verdens Gang;" our other companion we soon learn is, by strange and not unhappy chance, our Greek friend Thales Coutoupis, with whom I had visited so pleasantly on the train and who had been in our party in its descent of Bright Angel trail at Grand Canyon. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 55 Mr, Saxc and Alt'. Coutoupis liave the lower berths, I tlie one upper, because ol' my dehiy in bookiiij;'. Mr. Saxe immediately begins insist- ing that lie should take the upper because he is lighter in weight than I. He s])eaks a ])retty good Englisli and is more easily understood than is our Greek friend. I assured him ihat I would be content to take just exactly what I had drawn; that he is entitled to his lower by prior- ity right and that I would not think of taking his better location away from him. I have won- dered since if there could have possibly been any method in Mr. Saxe's madness. They do say that in case of sickness in the upper berth the man below is in great danger. I haven't been sick yet, so Mr. Saxe has not been disturbed. The dining service on our steamer is very fine, too fine for some evidently, for they are not regular in attendance. Some have been to the dining room but once; others appear per- iodically, peck gently at the food and then hie themselves out into the fresh air, or back to their berths. It makes me think of the state- ment of the individual with us on a former ocean trip who claimed that he had gotten so sick the first few days out that he threw up stuff that he had eaten when he was a child. There is lots of good food wasted at sea. Wasted? Well, I'm not sure, behind the boat, now almost 700 miles out, there are still follow- ing us, big birds, gulls I presume, who live, it is said, upon the offal from the vessel. They certainly have good picking the first few days out. The gulls are marvellous birds. In them you have a stabilized form of airplane. They are more than that, they are hydroplanes, too. They 56 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS light upon the water, rest there, rise again, catch up with the ship, skim along over the waves, apparently tipping them with their wings, and oh, they lead a merry life, free from every care in the world and fearless of wind and wave. It is about six o'clock in the after- noon here now, and in Washington many of our friends are preparing for bed; the first show is just out at the Fox; if it is cold, father is down l)utting a little coal in the furnace and mother is putting out the cat. Over in the west, here, the sun is still u]) in the clouds. There is a broad, clear streak on the horizon, though, and the surgeon just told me that a beautiful sunset is brewing. We have not seen a sunset yet ; the two preceding evenings being cloudy. All are anxious to see old Sol take a naked j^lunge into the sea. It looks as if he would make it to- night. Last night, on the upper deck they had a pic- ture show, and to enliven it the Hawaiian or- chestra played occasional numbers and sang fre- quently. The sky was overcast, the ship rolled in darkness and at one time the quartette of male voices sang a Hawaiian melody which was so weird, so plaintive, so tenderly mournful, so sweetly touching in its gentle, melodious, tear- ful cadences that some of us got homesick. Such things can be endured when one is at home, safe under his own roof, with cheese and crackers in the pantry and coal in the cellar, but away out here a thousand miles from "gutta percha," as our friend from Kentucky says, it's excru- ciating-. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 57 LETTER XI. "Peg-gy" Transfers still at Sea, October 8. 1921 A lady at the breakfast tahle tljis morning remarked: "We now know what it means to be rocked in the cradle of the deep." She made that remark jnst after a nice little collection of plates, spoons, knives, forks, etc., liad slid from onr table off onto the floor as the ship made an unnsnal side dip. As for me, I narrowly escap- ed rolling- from my chair ont over the floor. Only a qnick grab at the firmly attached table saved me. As onr readers will surmise, we are rolling- some today. Last night it rained heavily. There was no storm here, but the. sailors say there was a storm somewhere on the Pacific and we are getting- the ground swell. In the great sea troughs onr boat dips nntil one can barely save ones self from tumbling with every new wave encountered. Last night we passed the Maui, the sister ship to the Matsonia upon which we are sailing. The Maui is north bound, to San Francisco. We transferred mail. I hope it did not go to the bottom of the sea. The transfer and its attend- ing incidents Avere a thrilling sight. It had rained during the afternoon and the sea was fairly rough. As night came on, it looked all the blacker and more threatening. For a long while we peered ahead into the darkness thru the mist and the fog anxious to catch a glimpse of the oncoming ship. The mists raised, the new moon shone faintly beliid the clouds and up over 58 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS the liorizon came the Maui, her decks and ports abhize with light. It was a beautiful sight viewing it across the rolling waves, but not one of us landlubbers who were on the ship Init wondered how it would be possible to launch a boat from either ship and carry the mail across, for I had been told during the afternoon by one of the officers of our ship that the two big boats would not be brought nearer to each "PEGGY" The movie actress, who involuntarily staged a thrilling sea scene for us. other than one-half to three-quarters of a mile on such a sea. But, the mail was not all that was to be transferred. A young woman had come out on the Maui to meet us and she, too, was to be transferred. That meant that the Maui would ])ut off a small boat and deliver the mail and the young woman, and get our mail. On our ship, however, another small boat was made ready for immediate launching in the event of a call for help. The big ships ap- WITH WORLD'S PRKSS CONGRESS 59 proacliod cncli other slowly until they were nearer than a half niih' ai)art, we thought. The search lii»ht from our ship played over the sides of the Maui fi'om stem to stern foi- several mo- ments. We were so close that we conld see the people on tlie other vessel. Suddenly we saw the boat being low^ered from the Mani. There were six or eight people in it a^; near as w^e conld see. Dow^n, dow^i, it went along the side of the big shi]). We saw- it strike the water. From the decks of the Maui there were cheers. The small boat cast off and pulled out into the sea; we could see it bobbing over the crests of the waves and then disappear and be ont of sight for a full half minute. For an hour it bobbed out over the weaves as a wdiite speck, making no perceptible headw^ay toward us. Once it seemed to be going back to the Maui. The big boats were getting farther and farther apart. Then our ship's engines started up; we were soon swinging around slowly and we realized that our officers were steering to- w^ard the little boat in order to shorten the course. After a little while the boat from the Maui was discovered off the prow of our ship, on the opposite side to that from which it had been planned to receive our visitor. The little boat was making the waves nicely. The six men at the oars were working like mad but they were not working ineffectually. Our search light now full upon them showed the boat tossing upon the crests of the waves as a most beautiful pic- ture. 'No^v they w^ere so close that the figure of the w^oman could be made out. It was an odd figure. The up]ier part of her body was wrap- l>ed in a big life saving belt. We could catch 60 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS an occasional glimpse of her white face, but she never looked up. One sensed the fact that she felt that she was in serious business. As the boat shot a particularly high wave and a shower of salt spray fell over the occupants of the little craft T saw her grab the hands of the officer seated near by her with a tense grip. The sailors from our boat began shouting- salutations to the boys below. Back from the little boat came the shout "Hello Fat," as one of our visitors evidently recognized an old friend. They didn't stop bending to the oars, though "Some joy ride" another commented. "How's the weather?" someone called from our ship. "Eolten as ," came back the piquant answer. Soon they were close to the side of our ves- sel. There was a scurrying about in the little boat, a flinging of oars, a nervous bustle, each movement meaning something worth while, I surmise, in the effort to keep the little boat from getting too far under the big one. "Out with a line" the officer from below shouted, but the line didn't come quick enough. In an instant the little boat was out in the sea again; back she came in a few moments. "Out with your line, quick!" Out the line shot, and then another one. The girl was quickly "hung" with a rope about the waist, nnder the arms. A ladder of rope with wooden steps was cast down and she was push- ed onto it. She started to climb nervously and then slip- ped back; the rope around the waist held her. The officer in charge climbed up behind her, pushing her on up and up while the ladder WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 61 swiin^' like a streamer in the breezes. Arms reached far down and j>ral)bed tlie j>irl and she was piiHed through a port hole white, and tremblin.^, and temporarily undone. From above there shot out a small hag which fell into the boat below with a clang. It was a bag of silver that the passengers on our boat had made up for the sailors who had dared the deep to deliver the girl and get the mail. The mail, too, was safely landed into the small boat. We hope it got safely to port without accident. The little boat was quickly away from us again. Our ship signaled with two long whistle blows and we were soon under full headway. Looking back we could see the little boat of the Maui still tossing about on the waves its course covered now by the search light from the Maui. We do not doubt that they got home all right for the trip back would be with the wind and the boat rode the sea beautifully, anyway. And the young woman — who was she? I don't know much about her yet, nor do I know her mission, aside from that thrilling one wdiich she staged as a companion of the Maui crew that delivered her to us. I did overhear one of the women from our party remark after she had viewed the sea scene: "And all this for a per- oxide blonde!" Gosh, how jealous these wom- en folks are! I have learned since that the girl is ' * Peggy, ' ' a moving picture actress, the hero- ine of some Hawaiian scenes which are being shown on shipboard these evenings. Well, I've seen "Peggy's" show. It was a free show, too, one of the most i-ealistic that "Peggy" ever appeared in, I am inclined to think. Anything else that she may offer doesn't interest this writer at present. Peggy hit the 62 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS liigli ])uiiit in lier career last niglit when she came across in the mail boat. It must be said in Peggy's favor, too, that she has the stuff in her that success is made of. Many a person, in fact the very great mass of persons, would not have dared the sea as she did last iright. Sailors on the Matsonia all agreed tliat it took nerve and lots of it for a girl to venture out in a small boat on such a sea. While they agreed that there was no great dan- ger, yet there was some danger and the situa- tion was at all times tense, and nerve trying. The sailors are used to it, hardened to it. Even, capsized, most of them could swim for hours, and would not have felt that even such a ca- tastrophe Vv^ould have meant sure death to them but for a girl to face such dangers, that did take nerve. Peggy had it. The sea still is swelling mightily; great 1)il- low^s roll under us and toss the boat up and down. They hit us sideways and we tip, tip until we have to grab something to hold us up. Why shouldn't it swell! It's the biggest sea in the world, and just now it has the full sweep from China east in which to gather its moment- um. There was a whole lot of peo])le who didn't go to breakfast this morning and if it stays "thusly," there will be many others who will be too busv at dinner time. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 63 LETTER XII. The "Matsonia" At Sea, October 8, 1921 Tlic vessel oil wliieli we are making- tlie trip is the Matsonia, of the Matson Navigatino; (Com- pany line. At this moment we are in latitude 27 degrees and 18 minutes north and longitude 147 degrees and 86 minutes west. We are 675 miles out of Honolulu and ]irobably about 1400 miles from San Francisco. The Matsonia is a vessel of 17,000 tons displacement, 501 feet long and 58 feet wide. Its gross tonnage is 9728, reg- istered tonnage 5901. It has a triple expansion engine with a single screw, if you know what all that means — I don't. I do know, however, that the vessel will carry 350 passengers nicely housed, besides about 8000 tons of other ballast. We're carrying a nice load this trip, not over- loaded, or so heavily loaded that we can't make time. We are making good time and expect to dock in Honolulu Monday morning at eight o'clock if all goes well. The state rooms on the vessel contain an up- per and lower berth, a settee, a locker, a com- Ijined dresser and wash stand, electric fan, elec- tric lights, armed camp chair and many of them have bath connections. The settee can be made into a bed, making, in that case ample room for three in a room. That's the way most of the press people were booked, where it could be so arranged. Messrs. Coutoupis, Saxe and myself fill one state room more than comfortably. In fact, after two nights in my upper, I found I wasn't sleeping real well, too warm, so I went to the ]iurser and we found another room for 64 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS me, ono well forward on the top deck, a room ordinarily used by some of the ship men I think, for it was rather far away from the regular group of compartments. In that room I had everything to myself and did not lack for fresh air and all the attending blessings. The roll of the boat was probably a little more noticeable but that didn't bother me nearly so much as had the surplus heat and now we are getting down toward the real tropical climate. There are three decks to our vessel, as there are to all, I presume, main deck, "prom-e-nod" deck and top deck. On the main deck are, in addition to some state rooms, the kitchen, pan- try, general bath rooms, dining room, etc.; on the promenade deck are state rooms, the social hall and some general bath rooms; on the top deck are state rooms, sun parlor, men's smok- ing room, pursers and officers' rooms and of- fices and the open air sitting room and sport parlors. Every afternoon there are competitive sports on the top deck. I played ''shuffle board" with such youthful enthusiasm the first day out that I was almost laid up for a couple of days; at least I was out of the sports, for the time being. Last evening on the top deck we had a picture show, and yesterday afternoon in social hall a mock trial was held. This morning at eleven o'clock we had a lecture in the same place on Hawaii. Tonight there will be vaudeville, and I suspect that the local talent will be supple- mented by "Peggy," the girl of the sea about whom we wrote in a preceding letter. Tonight at 10:30 a special Italian dinner will be serv^ed in the dining room, after the show. Dinner on shipboard means something, too. The meal service is something scandalous in quan- tity and superlatively good in ciuality. Only WITH WORLDS PRESS CONGRESS 65 O < 6 in S3 3 01 -a O o CD '3 CD O) 03 M -C o w o s CO o Oi -a PI 03 o d o c o 01 > 66 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS the fresh salt air, and tlie general toning up of all the physical machinery by means thereof makes possible the successful assimilation of the quantities of food that are devoured by "well" people on a trip like this. Not only do they serve three big" meals daily, but tAvice daily, in the forenoon and in the afternoon, deck stew- ards pass hot boullion and crackers to those who get hungry between meals. Today the peo- ple sailing on this ship are offered four big regular meals and two lunches. At the meals anything and everything on the bill of fare is brought to the passenger if he wants it. There is no '"choice of" on this bill. It's a case of take evervthing you want and all vou want of it. Just for the edification of our readers I Avill give herewith the luncheon menu for today, and the luncheon is one of the light meals. There was no limit to one's order and no limit to the number of times one orders. This is one of the simplest menus we have had at luncheon hour. Spiced Herrings Green Olives Radishes Green Onions Plain Lettuce Poi Salami Consomme Vegetable Soup Fried Halibut Lemon Butter Chili Con Carne with Beans Baked Potatoes Steamed Rice Creamed Turnips Hot Corn Bread Liberty Steak with Fried Bananas Spring Chicken with Bacon Strips Roast Beef Pigs Feet Ox Tongue Roast Mutton Assorted Sausage Roast Pork Turkey Gelatine Combination Salad Diplomat Pudding Strawberry Sauce ■ Plum Pie Peach Sherbet Almond Jumbles Sliced Hawaiian Pineapple Fresh Fruit Cheese: American, Swiss, Edam, Imperial Crackers Coffee Cocoa Tea Milk WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 67 And think of it: a lot of that stuff is hardly oaten l)efore it is fed to the fishes. No donbt ship companies can afford to feed their passen- gers well, at least such passengers as eat, for they do not all eat, certainly not. Some scorn food in its most tempting forms. Many of them liave the feeling of that poor woman who sang, ''Please Mr. Captain, stop the ship — I want to get out and walk." Today as I staggered — we all staggered to- day, the swell is still on — as I staggered to- ward the dining room I encountered friend Golthwaite, of Boone, at the top of the stair. "Isn't it beautiful today, the sea?" I comment- ed. ''I'm getting about enough of it," he said. "I always wanted to experience this, but I'm about fed up on it now." He had a sort of a sickly expression on his face; it was a face upon which distrust, disgust, disdain, disturbance, dislike, disappointment, distress and other such emotions were blended into a somewhat repelling composite. He really didn't seem very sociable for a fellow lowan. I feel that when two or three people from the same state are far, far away from home togeth- er, surrounded only by hundreds of compara- tive strangers, on a ship that is out at sea, three to four thousands of miles from their mutual home, they ought to be kind to each other. Golthwaite was not kind to me. Ho didn't look as if he wanted to be kind to anybody, so I went on down and ate my lunch; and coming back I found him at the same spot, in the same mood. I could not resist a final effort at cordiality so I commented: "They have some nice sausage on the bill today," and then I passed right on, quickly, not pausing even long enough to let T' 68 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS liim know that I bad caiiglit the look of dis- tressiim' dis^iist and malevolent resentment that flickered over his conntenance. We just sighted the government transport ''Logan" northward bonnd. It made a beauti- ful appearance, perhaps six miles to the "gee" side of our ship. A deck hand tells us that we are hardly ever more than one hundred miles from some vessel and always we are in wireless reach cf comparatively nearby neighbors. We are in the land of the flying fish, too, now. Ev- ery once in a while we strike a little school of them and they dart through the air, their silver bodies glinting brightly in the sunlight. Yesterday standing up at the ]irow of the boat I saw a little bird flying along by the side of the ship. It looked much like an Iowa bird, brownish with little yellow spots on it. It flew ahead of the boat and on and on out of sight, di]i]iing frequently close to the water. Looking' back I saw another bird of the same appearance. I saw them for a little while, only. I wondered, naturally, where they could have come from. Certainly they were not in familiar haunts. Later in the day I learned that a lady passenger was taking the birds to Honolulu and by some means they got out of the cage, and were lost at sea. They no doul)t flew on and on as long as they could looking for land and fin- ally fell weakened and helpless into the sea. ■"Nor could thev ask tomb more magnificent." WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 69 LETTER XIII. Water, Water Everywhere At Sea, October !), 1921 Sliortly after we embarked at San Francisco I went down into the dining room of our boat to see what they were doing about cliecking* din- ner seats. There was a big crowd there waiting. I could get in line and stay there for an hour or so and be assigned to some particular seat. There was scenery up higher and I didn 't want to wail, so I asked one of the dining room at- taches if there were enough seats in the dining room to seat all the passengers and he assured me that there were, so I let the checking go, satisfied in knowing that there would be a seat for me, somewhere. There was. When I came down that evening for dinner (supper at our house) the steward quickly as- signed me to table C, seat 1, and T have been there ever since. I had told the steward that I didn't care whom I sat with, or where. It all looked good to me. Before I had been in ray seat very long a tall, gray haired, rather heavily built gentleman came in and sat down beside me. I have since learned that he was like me, not particularly concerned where he sat, or whom he sat with. He took pot luck, too. I don't think I could have mado a selection more agreeable to myself had I checked tlie list over and taken my choice. The gentleman is Her])ert L. Bridgeman, Brooklyn, N. Y., busi- ness manager of the "Standard Union." The card he gave me said also, "Secretary of The Peary Arctic Club." It was, he ex])lained, an old card, the Peary Arctic Club being no more 70 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS now since Mr. Peary is dead and since he ac- complislied his life aim and his life work. Mr. Bridgeman has made three Arctic trips himself; has traveled all over the world, has had larg'e newspaper experience, is an exhaustive reader, highly educated and yet a man of "com- mon ordinary" demeanor, one who impresses yon as a student always of common sense meth- ods in all things. He is a mighty good man to sit and listen to and he is also a good listener, a ha]ipy combination. Since I had always been a Peary fan, never falling a victim of the great Doc Cook hoax, I could enter whole-heartedly into a discussion of Peary's accom]ilisliments, with a man who had had a large ])art of the heavy burden of fin- ancing Peary expeditions to the north on at least three different occasions. Referring to Doc Cook's sensational claims, Mr. Bridgeman laughingly admitted that he didn't think the doctor realized what he was saying when he gave out the word that he had reached the pole. Cook never dreamed what a sensation such a statement would create. He had made claim to having climbed Mt. Mc- Kinley, and got by with it, why not claim that he made the pole. ]\[r, Bridgeman was in charge of the ex]ie- dition that went north to get Peary in 1901, the last expedition made by Peary prior to his suc- cessful one. On that trip Mrs. Peary and one of their daughters had gone far north with the ex- plorer and when Mr. Bridgeman with his boat arrived to get them, he found the Peary boat under Capt. Bartlett iced in comfortably at the l)lace where the Greeley expedition had perish- ed. On this occasion Peary refused to return, but his wife and daughter returned with Mr. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 71 Bridgeiiian and the next season Peary came back to pre])ai-e for liis final dasli for tlie pole. He had jn-evionsly sailed aronnd Greenland proving' tliat the Greenland island did not ex- tend np far enongh toward the pole to ^ive him a substantial ])asis for operations and after that discovery he mapped ont the plan that was fin- ally supcessfnl in his attainment of the pole. Mr. Peary spent over half his life in the Arc- tics, making explorations in the interest of sci- ence and geography. He did a stupendous amount of practical, useful work, , and Mr. Bridgeman as the secretary of his club had al- ways on hand the job of raising funds for this w^ork. Tie admits though that the achievements were worth the effort required on the part of Peary's friends in his behalf. The complications attending the consummation of their ambitions in the attainment of the pole were transient in effect only. Mr. Peary is today known for what he was really worth. At our table, too, we have two bright young literary women, one a teacher in the Los An- geles schools, in the journalistic department of the high school; the other a special Avriter on an eastern pa]ier. Mrs. Dow, of Sioux Falls, S. Dak., who was hurt just a week ago today in the Grand Canyon, is with us and with the aid of her husband she is now able to walk about some. She is cheer- ful and both she and her husband are having a good time despite the accident. They never give u]). T do not know whether I have given the full list of foreigners on board, or not. If not, here they are, as nearly as I can determine at this time: V. R. Beteta, Nicaragua; Thales Cou- tou]Ms, Athens, Greece; Dr. Henry Chung, Korea; T. Feiteira, Maui, T. H.; Col and Mrs. 72 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Frederick Lawson, London; A. Lazo, Havana, Cuba; Oswald Marand, Montreal; P. J. 'Con- ner, Guam; Ludwig- Saxe, Christiania, Norway. A number of the more modern of our lady companions smoke cigarettes, which is quite a novel thing to some of the unsophisticated of our country editors. The London lady performs the act as handily as her husband handles his pipe; and still another girl was puffing a stick a few evenings ago on the upper deck. I didn 't bother to identify her. I am more than ever in favor of woman's rights — her right to bring herself down to man's level if she wants to, but I wish she wouldn't. The sea today is calmer. The roll of yester- day is gone, much to the delight cf several of our friends. The flying fish are getting larger and flying farther. We have seen no large fish since we left San Francisco, where I saw one in the bay, rolling along through the waters and occasionally jumping up high enough to be seen. There will be a religious service in social hall this evening at seven o'clock and sometime during the afternoon the moving picture man on board will take a picture of the dele- gates to the Congress. Tomorrow morning, if all goe,^ well, we will be at the island of Oahu, upon which Honolulu is situated. The luncheon bell (dinner at our house) has just rung. If you will excuse me I will report. I haven't failed to report at any meals yet and I don't want to break mv record now. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 73 LETTER XIV. Drawing Near to Land Honolulu, H. T., October 10, 1921 Yesterday was Siniday, October tlie 9tli, our last day on the sea before reaching Honolulu. It was the busiest day of all since we left San Francisco; busy for those who participated in all the events of the day. I didn't. At noon the Italian dinner was served, having been post- poned from the night before, as originally ])lan- ned. The cause of the postponement was the heavy sea. It had been planned to have a vaude- ville show Saturday night and after that the Italian dinner but the heavy sea put so many to bed that that plan had to be cancelled. After dinner they had deck sports. These consisted of j^otato races, cracker eating con- tests, neck pulls, nail driving contests, cracker smashing battle, chair chase, etc. We will have to say this for the English woman who rolls her own: she is a real all round sj^ort. Any contest that she could possibly get into she did, and she showed good mettle. I doubt though if her smoking helps any. Also, her husband was there with the goods. Neither of them was afraid to join in contests where one might be expected to make one's self look ridiculous. They enter in. The colonel, who is one of the proprietors of the London Telegram, enjoys, with all the rest, the usual call for ' lii,i;ii in ilie air and "doiiii;' lliiii.ns." ( )ti(' by one llio suhiiiarincs dipped down un- der tin water and were gone; on the farther side of our boat we heard sini»ino- and liurrying over lliere we found tliat a small s^teamer had eonie out to meet us brinoinii;' with it a native orchestj-a and ehorns. They san,i>' ITaw\niian sonii's from a beautifully bedecked boat wdiile native and white boys in scant bathing suits dived from the top of the little steamer into the ocean as carelessly as you and I might step from an office into the street. The quarantine boat, a IT. S. yacht, came close to us and tw^o doctors boarded and lined us all up for (piarantine inspection. They were not very particular on this occasion, the per- sonnel of the visitors being such that they did not need to fear anything very serious. That was soon over and we were again back to en- joy the amazing spectacles which the HaAvaiians were staging for our benefit. Such ^v^ater sports few of us had ever seen before. Many of us got our first glimpse of the outrigger canoes, the little craft that the skillful natives use in rid- ing the surf and in penetrating to interesting sea ]wints on the island coasts that cannot be reaclied by larger boats. To the right, too, we got our first glimpse of Honolulu, pronounced here "Hone-o-lu-lu." The mountainous coast line wdiicli we had pre- viously passed presents principally a barren face, with here and there evidences of rather profuse greenery in the little valleys. But Hon- olulu lies, in part, in a valley and there, spread out before us, when we got in visual range of the city, was such a glorious spectacle of trop- ical beauty as few of us had ever seen before. Slowly drifting in through the harbor gate we were met by the small boy brigade of swim- 78 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS mers; tliey were of all colors, "and black," black all over, too. These little iads bad no doubt been barred from making the trip farther out, but now they were on hands, and their mission was to beg. All they asked was for the passengers to toss coins down into the ocean; they would see that the coins never got to the bottom. I threw a dime to a little black fellow; it toiicheci the water a full ten feet in front of him, I thonght. Down went his head; two little black legs wiggled in the air and then, they, too, disappeared. In a very short while, np popped the little black boy; he held the dime l)etween his tlmmb and finger and np where T could see it glisten in the sunlight and then he chucked it into his mouth. The last I saw of him he had one side of his mouth bulged out as if it contained at least a couple of dol- lars in small coins and he was still waiting for more. Yes, I must not forget that with the recep- tion committee that met us farther out was Duke Kahanamoku, the champion sprint swim- mer of the world. Duke stood on the top deck of the ^-eception steamer, his brown, tense legs, muscular neck and body standing out in strik- ing relief, as the boat came in sight. When within a few rods of us he sprang high and far out and dived deep into the ocean. He gave a short exhibition of swimming, crawling the water with an overhand stroke that carried him with tlie speed of our big boat. At -Ihe dock at Honolulu an immense crowd was awaiting us and as our ship svv^ung into the narrower part of the harbor we were saluted by the whistling of the dozens of craft lying in there, two large oriental vessels n'oining in the penetrating refrain. The native Hawaiian band WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 79 l^layed patriotic airs and a g'reat cliorus of lit- tle Japniioso hoys and s'ii'l^ di-essed in flowing- robes of briglit colors and waving the Hawaiian and onr national colors sang to ns. This part of the scene was oriental enongh in its setting to make a trip to Japan nnnecessary. Soon we were docked and down the gang plank we were welcomed by a reception com- mittee which directed ns to antomohiles re- served for the delegates and we were bronght to the Moana hotel, Press Congress headquar- ters. The hotel is a six story structure, built more especially for the accommodation of tourists, ap])are]itly. It does not have the air of a com- mercial hostelry, but it is large, roomy, elegant, the service fine, and the rates for this occasion moderate. It is on Waikiki beach, one of the famous lia thing beaches of the world and the court at the rear, within the two arms of the hotel, opens out flush on the beach, while with- in the court is a beautifully lawned tract, with banyan trees, royal palms, shrubbery of daintily variegated colors, flowers in a lavish profusion, and about, through it all, settees looking out upon the beach. This is the center of a verit- able riot of tropical shrub beauty with the add- ed attraction of the ocean sweeping up to the very door. From the window of my room I look out over the bay on one side, while in front, below, are palms and vines and cocoanut palms and bread plant trees, banyans, a wonderful wide spreading tree with large red flowers, vine and ■shrub smothered gardens, and beautiful little homes clothed in like manner. Beyond are the green mountains, parked with small cultivated tracts, here and there rough and rugged, again showing little homes so A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS outstanding' in the background of green. The scene is rarely l)eautiful, liard to describe, and yet just about what one miglit expect in a trop- ical country in which the jungle has been con- verted into a garden, the waste places made to blossom harmoniously and all of it graced by the ha]^py touch of beauty loving men and wom- en. The sun has just gone down in the bay and catching the spirit of the hour it glorified the waters and the sky with amazing shades of red, pink, lavender, green, blue and all the rest of them, thrown together in a mighty splash. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 81 LETTER XVI. The First Day on Shore Honolulu, October 11, 1921 Yesterday afternoon the o-ovei'nor's recep- tion was lield in the s'overnment building, for- merly the throne roooni of the royal palace. That was back in the time when Hawaii had kings ^^.nd queens, not so very far away at that. Gov. and Mrs. Farrington and Dean Walter Williams and daughter were the receiving party and, of course, we all passed around and shook liands, made some ])assing remarks about the weather, the price of hogs, the crop pros- pects, the beauties of Hawaiian scenery, the large size of the Pacific ocean, the result of the world championship ball games, etc., etc., and then passed on to the kickless punch bowl, got a nice iittle sample cup of grape juice and a toy piece of cake. After those onerous formalities were dis- posed of we were at liberty to pass around thru the throne room, feel of the heavy silk cover- ings of the erstwhile royal sitting-down-place, inspect the elaborate furnishings of the room, admire the style of finish, the evident age of the wood used in upholstering the ceilings, and above all, to look at the great life sized pictures of Hawaiian royalty long since gathered to their illustrious fathers. The first thing that struck me as strange was the discovery that on the walls were the pictures of King itvamehameha II. and his wife. The inscription under each read that they had died in London in 1824, and I noted, too, that they died within a few days of each other. That 82 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS was strange, and why did tlioy die so nearly at the same time. I could not rest nntil I had found the answer, but I did not find it until I had asked a number who didn't know. Finally, one man was found who did know and his story was briefly this. The missionaries had come to Hawaii in 1820. They were received kindly and were al- ways a great influence for good on the islands. King Kamehameka II learned from these mis- sionaries that there were other interesting lands in the world besides the land of his nativity. He was told about the grandeurs of European industj-ial, commercial, architectural and art development and he concluded he wanted to see it. The English were at that time strong on the islands and the king decided that he wanted to go to England and so he and his queen ]^acked their belongings and shipped toward the far east to see the world. In England they con- tracted the measles and died, eacli without the knowledge that the other was gone, the deaths occurring some eight days apart. In Britain the king and queen had been received at the royal palace as royal people and were accorded all the honors usually extended in favor of roy- alty. Their bodies were returned in state and they are now l)uried here with the other kings and (jueens whose monarchies have long since met the inevitable fate of all other mortal things We find among the pictures, too, the inter- esting ])ainting of Kamehameka I the king who conquered Oahu and in so doing com- pleted Ihe conquest of all the islands and joined them under a monarchy. That union has never ceased, although the form of govei*nment has changed. Kamehameka I reigned from 1782 WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 83 to 1S1!). hilt lie (lid not succood in iiiakiii.i;' llic islniuls Olio i>'oveniiU('iii until in 171)3, At iliis governor's reeeption one was struck by the <'rent nuuil)er of nationalities repre- sented h\ tlie throne room. There were English, French, Portuguese, native Hawaiians, Japan- ese, Chinese, Norwegians, Koreans, people from the states, New Zealand, Canada, etc., etc. They mingled in pleasant harmony. There was an entire absence of formality, just a "general good time" as we say when writing up an Iowa social function. In the evening at the Moana hotel a dinner was given to the delegates to the congress and their fiiends by tlie Honolulu committee. This was the first formal gathering of the Congress and friends in Honolulu. It was a full dress affair on the part of those who had such ar- ticles, but fortunately the announcement had said that such a form of dress was optional, so those of us who had no full dress went just the same. All the society of the island of Oahu was present and here we discovered that many of our shi]) friends had smuggled fine clothes in with them for they appeared all dressed and undressed in regular society form. This writer and a few others felt quite com- monplace mixed in with the splendidly arrayed, vast majority of those in attendance, but we didn't Dermit that to scare us out. I remem- bered that at a Masonic gathering in Washing- ton, Iowa, some few weeks ago a number of us had gone in "regular" clothes while a few others such as Will Bowers, Leigh Wallace, Alex Miller, Jim Glasgow, Ellitt Grayson, Ralph Shannon, Col. Wilson, et al., had rented dress clothes and were present in all the radiant glory and comfort of people who wear rented clothes that don't fit them and know that other people 84 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS know it. Certainly, I tlionglit, I oannot look any worse at this Honolulu banquet arrayed in my "ordinaries" than the above named felt at the Masonic event above referred to. In the great hotel lobby the two hundred people assembled prior to going- to the dining room made a lieautiful picture. It was all the more beautiful because of the cosmo])olitan character of the guests. All the society folk of Honolulu were there, including among them, Chinese, Japanese, native Hawaiians and those from the states and elsewhere who had chosen Hawaii as their home. I was standing in a rather lonesome manner looking over the ex- hibits "A," "B," "C," etc., and wondering what it was necessary for me to do to show to various of the fully dressed and undressed folks that I wasn't proud, and would talk to any of them when a nice looking Chinese man came up to me and extending his hand said: "I am Mr. ." Well, I think he said "Chang," or ' ' Lang, " or " Whang, " or " Bang, " or " Fang, ' ' or something. At any rate his name rhymes wdth "gang," and he wound up his self-intro- duction with: "and, what is your name." I told him my name, where I was from, how long I expected to stay in Honolulu and engag- ing in a still further conversation with him learned that he is a graduate of the dental de- partment of Northwestern College, Chicago. A dainty little oriental creature arrayed in native Chinese silks approached us and 1 was intro- duced to Mrs. "Chang," or "Lang," or "Grang" — at any rate it rhymes with "sang" having a very definite "ang" at the end of it. Both, I learned were born in Hawaii, so they are Chinese native Hawaiians. I asked the al- mond eyed little woman if she had ever been in America and she informed me that she had WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 85 never been out of Hawaii, the island of Oaliii. T attempted to tell her something about the wonders of our country and was on the point of asking- her and lier husband to eome np and camp with us some year during ehantauqua when the dinner call was sounded. I was seated with an lowan on one side and a Hawaiian newsi)aper man on the other and did not lack for entertainment during the even- ing. The Honolulu news])a])er man is a re- porter on the morning paper in this city and he told me many interesting stories 8 bout his in- terviews with notables who pass this way. I had not thought about it before, but instead of being isolated Honolulu is very much the op- posite. Few big vessels plying between San Fran- cisco and the orient fail to touch at Honolulu, and on ever^^ big vessel there are generally some big men, or big women. It is the mission of this reporter to see them all, chat with them, get interviews, and he admitted that that is not hard to do. By the time they get to Hono- lulu from either east or west they are ready to talk, and they will talk to anybody Avho ap- proaches them tactfully and avoids delicate topics. He told me that some leading Japanese statesmen were to pass through today en route to Washington and this afternoon, as we were driving through town, I noticed that there was a Japanese steamer, an immense one, docked in the harbor. Not long since Admiral Jellico, of the Brit- ish navy passed this way; General Wood and party; jajjanese and Chinese officials are very common and Australian notables coming by way of the states or Canada never fail to dock a few hours at Honolulu. Once in a while a super- 86 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS attraction, such as a Jack Jolinson, or a movie star of great fame stops at the islands and then all Hawaii is agog. The conclusion of the dinner and the open- ing of the formal program interrupted the very interesting part of the reporter's story in which he was telling me about Hawaii's experience with the big German vessel marooned in Hono- lulu harbor during the war. There was a brush between a German vessel and Japanese war- ships iust outside the three mile limit, to the east of Oahu, and with that success in favor of the Japanese and the internment of one Ger- man w:!r vessel in Honolulu liarbof the German fleet passed off the Pacific. These rather thrill- ing Pacific activities gave the Hawaiiaus a taste of the excitement of real war, long before we in th© states had gotten into it. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 8 7 The First Day on Shore (Continued) Honolulu, October 11, 1921 Tlie speaking })rogram, after tlie dinner re- ferred to in the preceding letter was something nni(|ne in international history, I helieve. No doubt there have been some religions and some political assemblies so international in char- acter as to include such a variety of speakers a^ appeared at this dinner, but they have been few and far between. There were speakers from China, from the Philippines, from New Zealand, from Australia, from England, from Japan, from Spain, from Cuba, from Canada, from Korea, from Greece, from Norway, from Hawaii, from the United States, and perhaps I have ov- erlooked a few others. The splendid showing of the British empire was the subject of wide remark. Delegates from all parts of the empire were on hand and in their addresses they evidenced a sincere sym- pathy with any movement that would tend to bring tiie nations of the world together in a bet- ter understanding of each other and in that mannei' make for the perpetuation of cordial re- lations. Governor General Wallace R. Farrington presided and made an address in opening the program which was a revelation to many of the visitors from the states in those particular feat- ures which had to do with Hawaii and its con- glomerate ])0])ulation. One striking thing brought out by Gov. Earrington, wliicli niany / 88 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS of lis had never tliQiiglit about before, was tlie success with which the island authorities con- trol the mixed population of the islands. In fact there is little need for control. They be- have. They live together in peace and happi- ness. While the United States as a nation has long been looked upon as the melting pot of the world, yet Hawaii stands as an example of melt- ing pot utility that registers a very much high- er percentage of net results than does the United States proper. Here in the islands of Hawaii, as our ]'eaders will gather from other parts of this correspondence, is such a mixture of popu- lation as no other United States territory of like total population has, and I doubt if any other countr>' in the world has such a complexity of racial inhabitants, in so narrow a space. The native Hawaiians are as a race, gentle, companionable, social, kind, company-loving people. They are not Avarriors; they are not pugnacious; they are not aggressive. They are kindly. I am told that the stranger entering the native Hawaiian gates is made welcome al- ways and he is asked to come in and break bread, stay a while, stay longer, stay even long- er. That prompts the speculation ns to whether it may not be possible that that spirit of the natives has had its salubrious effect upon all the races here gathered together in a common home. While we know that there are racial antag- onisms here, yet we do not feel that they are of that violent type that manifests itself on some- times rather slight provocation in the United States proper. Certainly we of the states can well wonder how they do it in Honolulu. How do they get along so well; how is it that in this city of Honolulu there is less crime tlian in any WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 89 other city of its size in tlie woi'ld ? That is the record which tlie mayor of tlie city chiiins for Honolulu. We met the mayor, Mr. John 11. Wil- son. He is half Hawaiian and half American, a ^•ra dilate of Stanford University, and I have it on the authority of tliose who know that he is a ftood mayo]', a fine, conscientious officer and a gentleman. The Hawaiian's word of welcome is "Aloha,'' a word of greeting, of good cheer, of welcome, of goodbye. It means all that is sin- cere in hosintality. It is a benediction. Here I might well mention the fact that tJiere are but twelve letters in the Hawaiian alphabet. They include all the vowels. Consonants are not needed. The few that are used are used under protest. Governor Farrington extended a warm word of welcome to the visitors from the states and the one outstanding point that he brought out in his direct address to newspaper people was that the sensible limitation of armaments in the Avorld could best be accomplished by the dis- armament of the press of the world. The dis- couragement of jingoism, by the I'ress, with a greater effort to make the people of the differ- ent nations of the world one in high ideals, and more intimate in their racial understandings, are essential to the furtherance of more pacific conditions in the world. Governor Farrington was followed by the mayor of Honolulu who deplored the fact that he could not offer the keys of the city to the visitors, simply because there are no keys to the city. Everything is left open in Honolulu. They don't need keys. Following the mayor came an address of welcome by the president of the local press club; then tlie president of the chamljer of commerce 90 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS si)oke and after liim came addresses from tlie different eonntries represented. Is it any won- der tint it was well past niidniglit when the festivities of this occasion were conclnded. The whole assemblage in perspective was pictures- que, very picturesque; a sight never seen in the United States, unless under conditions which inay sometimes develop in AVashington, 1). C, when the various foreign representations join with our representatives in an official func- tion. The music of the evening was furnished by native Hawaiians, whose orchestral numbers were interspersed with those plaintive native songs which always ai)peal so tenderly. It was a wonderful meeting, deep in its inspirations, stuiDcndous in its broadening effect. We were in the presence of the whole world; we got flit- ting glances of the orient and the Occident from different angles. There was good will in super- abundant quantities and I, for one, turned awa^^ from this scene listening to the still, small voice which echoed and re-echoed the sentiment of one of the foreign speakers who insisted that this is not a world in which to "live and let live," but a world in which to "live and help live." WITH WORLD'S I'RESS CONGRESS 91 WALTER WILLIAMS Columbia, Missouri, U. S. A. Light in corporeal equipment, but heavy in brain. The worthily popular president of the World's Press Congress 92 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XVIII First Session of Congress At Sea. En Route to Hilo, Oct. 12, 1921 We are at sea again. Early tliis morning at three o'clock we pnt out from Honohihi, for a five days' visit of the islands. The first meet- ing of the World Press Congress was held yes- terday morning at the hotel headquarters at 10:00 o'clock. The meeting was called to order by President Williams. The first significant incident of the congress was the reading of a message from President Harding, honorary president of the congress, by Governor Gen- eral Farrington. After the reading of the message Ed Medary, of Wankon, leaned over to me and said: ''That's a world message." Indeed it was a significant, a common sense message, one which we are going to publish in this connection, so that our readers, if they have not already read it may do so now. It was as follows: President Harding'.s Message The White House, Washington, D. C, September 10, 1921. My Dear Governor Farrington : At one time I dared to hope that it might be possible for me to come to Honolulu at the opening of the Press Congress of the World, and say in person some of the things that I think would be appropriate to so notable an occasion. I find it impossible for me to be away from Washington at that time, and there- fore am asking you to extend in my behalf the greetings of our government to the delegates, and to assure them of the great importance we attach to this world gathering of representa- tives of the press. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 93 I hope the fact that I chance to have been most of my life a newspaper man will not have distorted my judgment so far as to cause me to overrate the importance of journalism in the present-day world. Not only have the World war and the events transpiring since the armistice, impressed us all anew with the use and value of the public press, but they have demonstrated the possible danger which re- sides in a press too freely employed for mere propaganda. In the overwhelming emergency of the war. propaganda became a well nigh universal habit, I might almost say a code, among journalists. It was, of course, intend- ed to be the propaganda of patriotism, of de- vout nationalism, of well-intended aspiration for the salvation of the best in human society; but it was not always extremely fair, judicial or discreet. On the whole, it served a splendid purpose in the circumstances of war-time, but we newspaper men could indulge ourselves in no more grievous error than to assume that propaganda is the first or even a leading aim of a properly conducted press. Your own letter, which has just come to hand, concerning the educational conference of this summer at Honolulu, suggests to my mind the idea that might well dominate an ideally conducted press. I cannot but feel that the primary purpose of the press, as a social institution, is the opening of men's minds, rather than the closing of them. Propaganda aims primarily at shutting up the mind against other conclusions than those which the propa- gandist designs to implant. Education on the contrary, aims to open the mind, to prepare it, to make it receptive, and to urge it to formu- late its own conclusions. Propaganda would at last mean intellectual paralysis; education is, when properly employed. Intellectual stim- ulus. It is better that men should think than that they should accept conclusions formulated by other men for them. We have need in these times that men should think deeply, that they should realize the necessity of settling their own problems. The world has well-nigh become a great aggj-egation of democracies. No democracy will rise far above the level of its average thinking capacity, and no aggregation of de- mocracies will rise very far above the average intellectual ability of its members. In short. 94 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS democracy has come to its great trial, and the verdict will depend largely on its capacity to make men think. It is not enough to say that other systems, by their very nature, discourage men from thinking, because they aim to pro- vide organizations at the top to do their think- ing for them. That may be true, but it is no answer to my proposition that if democracy is to succeed it must deserve success by proving that it can inspire the race of common men to serious, continuous effective consideration of the problems of common men. In this work of education nO' single force or influence of which we now know can be ex- pected to exert so great a potency as the press. Perhaps the press never confronted so great an opportunity tO' demonstrate its adequacy to this task, as now. You peoples of the Pacific have invited the Press of the World to be your guests, to con- sider the problems of our time and our race. You are meeting in a day when the world is looking forward to the gathering of the na- tions to consider limitations of armament and the maintenance of world peace. If your delib- erations shall inspire a larger, a better, a more humane view of the elements which enter into the problem of peace and at least a measura- ble disarmament; if you can encourage the ideal of a world permanently at peace, then you will have given a vast impetus to the ef- forts of statesmen who are presently to con- sider these problems in Washington. We have heard much in recent years about the problem of the Pacific, whatever that may be. I take it to be merely a phase of the universal problem of the race, of men and nations, wherever they are. It is hard to imagine justifications in this day and age, especially in view of the world's late unhappy experiences, for armed conflict among civilized peoples anywhere and espe- cially among peoples so widely separated as those on opposite borders of the Pacific. They represent different races, social organizations, political systems and modes of thought. Be- tween them and their widely varying systems, there may well be an amicable competition to determine which community possesses the bet- ter and more effective ideas for human ad- vancement. But that there should be conflict; that warfare and controversy should interfere WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 95 with this worth-while demonstration of the value of different modes of progress, is almost unthinkable. The Pacific ought to be the seat of a generous, free, open-minded competition between the best ideals of eastern and western life; between the aspirations and endeavors of the oldest and the newest forms of human so- ciety. You are meeting at the cross-roads of the Pacific, amid all the glamour and romance and glory which have always surrounded the very name of the South Sea. You have an opportu- nity to do a work for humanity, and I believe you have met at a peculiarly auspicious time. I could express no greater hope, no more ear- nest wish for your congress than that it might prove the precursor of an understanding which in our day, in our very tomorrow, I may say, would insure the peace of the world, the prox- imate end of the frightful waste of competing armaments, and the establishment of peace on earth, good will toward men. Very sincerely yours, WARREN G. HARDING. Hon. Wallace R. Farrington, Executive Chamber, Honolulu, T. H. Followini>' President Harding's address, President AVilliams of the Congress delivered his address which was a masterful effort, and I can best convey to our readers a definite idea of the ideals toward which Mr. Williams aspires by quoting briefly from his address as follows: From Walter Williams' Address A League of Journalists — keeping open and free the avenues of world communication and speaking just and fair may do even more to preserve sacred institutions of society, to promote and maintain world peace, tO' give larger life to all, than even the most skillfully balanced league or association of nations. In the last analysis. Public Opinion rules. Re- corded, crystallized, interpreted, expressed by journalism it is supreme. Ideas, not navies, rule the sea. Ideas, not armies, dominate the land. Let us disarm the typewriters of the jingo press in every land and limitation of — 96 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS nay abandonment of armaments even without the Washington conference is an accomplished fact. Without the press' aid, whatever the wise men at Washington may determine, there is no peace; disarmament is an iridescent dream. Increase the avenues of communication be- tween nations and free news sources from the poison of interested propaganda and we there- by help to make a sick world well. Permit these avenues to be clogged, congested and cor- rupted and the fever of war returns apace. Open the door of the Washington Conference and to all conferences that involve interna- tional relations to the press of the world and there is great gain thereby. Debate and de- cide the destinies of people in secret and be- hind closed doors and whatever the good de- cision, its effect is weakened by the suspicion created by the very secrecy. The war dogs are unleashed behind closed doors, not when men talk with frankness at a conference table while the world looks on. Our meeting m this city suggests that no longer are the nations separate. No longer may they be unconcerned, the one with the welfare of the other, for all nations and all peoples everywhere are bound up in the sure bundle of the world's life. To serve the life of the world and not to do dis-service to those who live next door is the high mission of the journalism of today. Impossible, you say, the accomplishment of such a mission. Nay, nothing is impossible to those whose hearts are young, whose faith is sure, and who have ever before them the vision splendid of the profession of journal- ism — journalism, the great unfinished, fasci- nating, new adventure. Aside from the a])i)ointment of committees there was little more done at this first meeting-. The Press Congress was presented with a large silver loving enp and a symholieal arch design in solid silver, both beautifnl creations, the gift of the officials of the government of China to the Press Congress. The Chinese representative, Mr. Tong, made the presentation address. The representative from Spain urged that the next Congress he held in that city. The Philippine WITH WORLDS PRESS CONGRESS 97 rcpresuiilativc askud that it be licld in Alaiiila, There were other invitations, I believe, all duly filed. 'Not tlie least important part of the program was tlie taking of moving i)ietiires of the meet- ing. President Williams, Gov. Farrington, Mr. Tong and other officers were duly posed and then the movie man turned his camera on the common herd and they were filmed, too. The movie man advised us this morning that the films are already on the way to the states. He has promised to show the pictures to the Con- gress with all others taken by him, before we leave. When the Congress adjourned, it ad- journed to meet the 17th, after the tour of the islands has been made. That trip includes visits to Maui and Hawaii. The latter named is the largest of the group of islands, larger than all the others combined. 98 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XIX. Touring the Islands En Route, October 12, 1921 We boarded our steamer again last evening, sleeping on tlie steamer as it was to leave at three o'clock this morning in order that we might get into Hilo, Hawaii, before six o'clock this evening, when the festivities begin on that island. Also, the scenery was to begin at about 7 o'clock and we are having scenery all day; scenery for breakfast, dinner and supper. The course taken Ijy the steamer on this occasion is an unusual one, the deviation being made for the sake of the party. Ordinarily the ships make tlie whole trip at night, going by the lee side of the islands. This time the trip is being made ])y day on the windward, the scenic side, of the islands. Our course lies to tlie north of I\Iolokai and Maui and around the coast of Hawaii. When w^e awoke this morning Molokai was in sight and soon we were drifting along a "rock l)ound" shore, the cliffs rising sheer from the water, sometimes a hundred, maybe five hun- dred feet. Farther back were higher mountains covered with tropical greenery, while here and there canyons broke the coast line and occasion- al evidences of life were seen. Over the shore walls, too, frequent little streams tumble rol- lickingly down into the ocean. We passed near enough to the le])er colony to see the buildings of tlie settlement and the steamer whistled a cordial signal to the some six hundred pa- tients there. There are (|iiite a number of citizens of Hon- WITH WORLDS PRESS CONGRESS 99 O 100 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS oliilii on the Itoat and Ave do not lack for infor- mation as to what there is to see and where to look for it. The leper colony is nestled on a pretty little point in a valley breaking ont thru the coast line. It is so pretty we are informed that many patients do not want to leave, even after they are cured, so attached do lliey become to the beautiful spot. We were surprised, too, at the suggestion that lepers are cured. They are, or, at least, the germ of the disease is eliminated from the sys- tem and the i)rogress of the disease is arrested to such an extent that the patients are safely discharged from isolation. The medicine used is known as "Dean's Derivative." It was work- ed out by Dr. A. L. Dean, President of the Uni- versity of Hawaii, in the laboratory of the uni- versity. The basis is the oil of the chaulmoogra nut, long known as a very efficacious curative. Where there were some two thousand ]:>a- tients at the Molokai leper colonies some twenty years ago there are now about six hundred, and that number is gradually being reduced, by the treatment above referred to. Within sight of our boat as we skirted this coast were a number of fine large buildings erected by our federal government a few years ago, to supplement the provisions already made for caring for lepers. So raiiidly did the need for the accommodations decline that the government has never yet been called upon to use the Iniildings, and in all prob- ability never will. They stand there idle now, in charge of a keeper, who has a lonesome ,iob. At the main colony, the one above referred to, there are some 86 helpers, nurses, caretakers, etc., with Dr. Goodhew in charge. The little town, Kalaupapa by name, has its general store, its church, its moving picture show and all the comforts of home. Everything ])ossible is done WiTil WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS lUl to make tliu lot of the l(j[)ers as cointortaljlt' and as ]ia])i)y as possible, and the scenic sui'round- ini>s aic as beautiful as a pleasant di'eani. There is a small second colony, some few miles away from the main colony. At this sec- ond place the incurables and the far advanced are ke])t. Those include the patients who have begun losing fingers, toes, are blind, etc. This part of the colony is in charge of Brother Jos- eph Button, now over eighty years of age, and he has not been away from the place, not even to the adjoining colony for thirty years. This is a life of sacrifice but there are always those who are willing to make the sacrifice. "Greater love hath no man." There is good fishing and bathing at the leper settlements and the patients have little garden tracts which they cultivate. On this side of the island there is an abundance of rain and they are therefore relieved of the need of irrigation, the system that has to be employed just a few miles over the mountains on the other side. Passing Molokai, we were in sight of the island of Hawaii toward the capital city of which, Ililo, we are driving our course today. The attractions at Hilo and other parts of the island are a ride through the sugar plantations, a night stay at the active volcano Kilauea, with various drives out into lava infested districts where nature has cut up in an amazing way. PTawaii is the island that carries the most mod- ern things in the volcanic line. The one Ave are to see is the only one in the world, I believe, where one can go right i\\> and wash his hands in molten lava and live to tell the story to his friends. Manna Loa, a mountain almost 14,000 feet high is on this island. This mountain, too, is a volcano, active fre([uently, and when it be- 102 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS comes active, those in the immediate vicinity move, temporarily at least, for it has a large flow-' of lava and an nnbroken course to pursue when it breaks loose. Mauna Kea, another mountain, not actively volcanic, has been in sight all day. It has snow on it, indicating that its summit does invade the chilly realms of the higher air in faithful ac- cordance with the claims of the informed resi- dents of this connnunity. Here as in our west- ern country in the I^'nited States it is sometimes hard to believe that distances are as great, or heights as sublime, as it is claimed for them. They don't look it. The city of Ililo and Hilo bay are now in sight. Here we are to disembark and attend a reception given by the Hilo yacht club this ev- ening. The boat is slow about docking, since the water is shallow. On the dock the Hawaiian county band is playing lively airs of welcome. There is a great crowd awaiting ouy arrival and the outlook for lively entertainment is good. Hawaii is the largest of all the islands and the amount of land under cultivation is greater than that on any of the other islands. Hilo is the prin- cipal city and the one city that has docking ac- commodations for vessels as large as the Mat- sonia, or in other words, ocean going vessels. Inter-island boats, much smaller, touch at var- ious smaller ])laces around the island. On this island Captain Oook, who rediscov- ered the islands in 177!» was killed l)y the na- tives, at a point now covered by the village of Jealakekua. Perhaps I have mentioned before that the islands were originally discovered from the east by a S])anish ex])lorer, Juan Gaetano, in 1555. In 1557 a Spanish vessel was lost off the Hawaiian coast and it seems to have carried the leading s])irits in the ex|)loraticns for at WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 103 that point Spain (lr()|)|)(Ml out of tlio limelight in connection with llawiian devclopniont and Cap- tain Cook next came on the scene. From tlie time of Ca])tain Cook Hawaii a,i>'ain l)ecame a part of the known worki. Well, we are getting nearer and nearer to the shore. The mobs at the wharf are cheering lustily; the band still plays with careless aban- don as to whatever else is happening. It is evi- dent that there is to be something doing here. We will therefore stoi3 right here, for the time being, and give closer attention to the immed- iate details of the program prepared by the Hilo people. 104 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XX. An Evening- at Hilo Honolulu, October 18, 1921 Tlie activities of the inter-island tour made tlie writing- of letters during that period an im- possibility if one was to keep np with the pace set by the entertainers; so, here we are back in Honolnlu with the task of making a feeble ef- fort to describe some of the wonders seen and the courtesies enjoyed on Hawaii still undone. The last word written, if I remember correctly, was at the point where we were about to disem- bark at Hilo, the capital city of the island of Hawaii. Yes, I mentioned that the band was playing, and that there was a great crowd at the dock and that people were yelling and singing and having a gay time generally. I might add that Hilo is a city of 10,000 jDopulation, is beauti- fully situated on a deep bav, and a great break- water which cost about $3,000,000.00 in the Iniilding, gives the city a splendidly sheltered deep water port. Before going farther here I will mention, too, tliat I watched with very great interest, on one or two occasions, while in this port, the load- ing and unloading of freight from our vessel. The wharf at Hilo is an immense structure and, observing the piles of merchandise scattered around, we assumed at once that there must be considerable shipping at Hilo. Certainly, there is. Great boxes and bundles of merclian- dise were lifted from the hold of the Matsonia for hours interminable, it seemed. Always when we came back to the boat we found the ''der- WITH WOIILUS PRESS CONGRESS 105 A HILO BEAUTY She did not go to the World's Press Congress; the Congress went to her 106 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ricks" at work. Great rope baskets were let down through the hatchways and loaded and then lifted np and swung out over the wharf and let down to the men below, who in all in- stances were Japanese, Chinese, native Hawai- ians, or some other foreign nationality. I have no way of knowing just what the men were unloading from our ship. I take it though that in most part it was merchandise from the states. Since it was in boxes and sacks, and crates, I could not well tell just what the con- tents were. There was one shipment which I did recognize though. Glancing forward at one time I noticed a "Ford" dangling in the air. It had just been swung uj) from the hold of the vessel and was when I observed it moving gent- ly down toward the floor of the dock, prepara- tory to taking out its Hawaiian natui'alization ])apers. Cables from the four corners of the Ford held it gently as it dropped to the floor l)elow. There was not just a single Ford in this shipment, though. There were some eight or nine of them. A full family it seems had emigrated in this ship to the Paradise of the Pacific. So gently were they handled by the men unloading the vessel that not one of the little birds was hurt and the last I saw of them they were being whirled gaily up street, three in a row, drawn by a fully naturalized Ford driven by a smiling faced brown boy. One hun- dred thirty thousand bags of sugar were loaded on our ship while it stood at Hilo awaiting our return. But we are far from the subject. As soon as we were docked a reception connnittee from Hilo came aboard and the usual formalities of such occasions were observed. There were s])eeches and more speeches and ladies bedeck- ed the visitors with the end)lem of welcome in WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 107 this country, collars of flowers, or of fancifiiU}^ designed |)a])er. Then at 7:15 o'clock we all dis- embarked and were di'iven in antomobiles to the Hilo Yacht Club, on llilo Bay, where there was a general recei)tion and a concert by the Haili Churcli All-Hawaiian Choir. This choir re- ceived the first iionors this year in the contests between singing gronps from all parts of the islands. The singing is typically Hawaiian, of tlie best type. It is difficult to find words with which to describe the beauty of the scene that greeted us at the Hilo Yacht Club grounds. There we had as almost everywhere else tropical trees and plants in glorious profusion, with the added touch of designedly artistic arrangements. There were the cocoanut palms, the royal palms, the banyan tree, great speary plants and be- f lowered hedges. To this was added an elec- trical illumination which made the scene en- trancing. An out door natural auditorium was seated for the accommodation of the visitors. After a brief address of w^elcome by the ]^resi- dent of the chambei- of commerce, supplemented by an address of welcome delivered by the pas- tor of the Hawaiian church in the Hawaiian tongue, we listened to the concert. There were some twenty male and female voices in the choir, middle aged and young. It would be idle to say that never was such singing heard before, but to our delegation from the far north, suddenly dro])ped down into this strangely al- luring tro])ical scene and listening to splendidly harmonizing voices singing plaintive songs in a sweet, simi)le language, under soft skies with tender sea breezes gently fanning our faces, the music did seem unspeakably sweet. It is needless to admit that here we spent a most delightful evening, enjoying the singing 108 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS and the situation. The closing part of the pro- gram was unique in its appeal, too. It was a tableau, pnt on by the Hawaiians illustrating certain official honors that were paid to the Hawaiian rulers in ancient times. The Hawai- ian minister announced the performance and ex- plained in detail the several parts of the cere- mony. He explained, too, that one feature of the ceremony was the hula-hula dance; which in this instance would l)e put on in a refined man- ner by a little girl. The only criticism of the evening's enter- tainment which I heard was made liy one of the hard boiled members of our delegation who ob- jected to the hula-hula in its "refined" form. Always in a crowd of this kind and size you will find some one to take exception to the way things are done. As for the most of us we liked the hula-hula in its refined form as well as we would had it been presented by the unrefined. The little brown girl, arrayed in the grass skirt common to the original Hawaiians put on a beautiful little dance while the other scenes of the ceremony were so primitive in their stage settings and api^earance as to carry us all away back in our thoughts to that time before Ca]v tain Cook had been used as a pin cushion by the peeved natives who took exception to some of the doings of their visitors from a distance. It must be said in explanation here, though, that as we understand it, the native Hawaiians were never savage, never vicious. We have ex- plained elsewhere that they were always a gen- tle, peace loving liospitable people. Of course, they could stand so much, no more, and under certain provocations they sometimes rebelled and would have revenge. Eeally, the story of their experience is a sad one. So-called civiliz- ation has been their undoing as a race. When WITH WORLD'S PRKSS CONGRESS 100 llic islands were (lis('()\ ctcmI llicrc were aWout L^()(),00() natives, as nearly as could be estimated. Now there ai'e about 2r),()00. Civilization lias dissipated tliom. AVlien dis- covered tliey were a liealtliy })eople. 'i'lie dis- coverers brought disease to the islands; brought diseases that made rapid inroads into their num- bers. Naturally a somewhat careless peo])]e, easy going, trustful, they easily fell the victims of debauchery and during that period when it Avas often said that there was no God in the Pa- cific, thousands and tens of thousands of na- tives of the Pacific islands were burned upon the altar of sensual sacrifice. 110 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXL Along- the Coast of Hawaii Honolulu, October 18, 1921 I foro'ot to mention in the preceding letter til at after the concert by the Hawaiian choir, and the tableau, there was dancing in the club house to Hawaiian music. Several of us hav- ing left our dancing pumjis at home did not par- ticipate in those festivities, but wandered about through the gTOunds, looked out upon the glis- tening sea and thought of home and dear ones, once in awhile, too. What we needed most of all to perfect the evening was the presence of those dear to us to join in drinking of the Ijeauty and fragrance and tropical sweetness so inexhaustibly served by nature on this occas- ion in this place. Free automol)iles took us back to our ship and early the next morning a special train, car- i-ying o])en faced cars, drawn by an engine fired l)y oil, thus insuring the absence of cinder show- ers on our trip, drew up to the wharf and we Avere off for a ride up the coast over what is known as the Laupahoehoe line. Well, this was a beautiful trip, too. I do not think that we were out of sight of the sea at anv lime except- ing when we went through a couple of tunnels and occasionally when we were in a deep cut. The tunnels and cuts were made through vol- canic rocks, so there was no danger of slides, and the cuts often rose sheer above us some thirty to forty feet. The road extends up through great sugar l^lantations across many deep ravines on high bridges. These bridges, some of them were over two hundred feet high, one was 220 feet WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 111 lii^li, ;iii(l some were as long as lUOO feet. For the aeeominodatioii of ilie ])liotograi)hers — we had two professionals with ns, one movie man representing- the Patlie people — the train was freciiiently sto])ped on the high bridges. That gave the i)liotographers the oi^portunity to get particnlarly striking pictures and also permit- ted the other passengers of the train to specu- late on the possible damage to rolling stock in the event the train should jum]) the track, when it started u]), and ]ilunge to the bottom of the ravine. I might also explain that other por- tions of this track runs along the tops and faces of high bluffs from which one may look straight down into the blue waters of the Pa- cific. We were informed by our guides that some of these- precipices around which we mer- rily spun were only two hundred feet high. Of course, a train dropping off the track at one of those points and splashing down into the sea would rudely disturb the fish. We passed through several villages, saw a number of sugar mills and were interested in the system of cane floats which are built all across that ijart of the country. There is no way of transporting the cane from the fields to the mills excepting by floating it down through flumes, some large, some small. That is, that has been discovered to be the most practical, most economical way to transport the cut cane. The result is that everywhere one sees the lit- tle flumes, far below, high above, the cane float- ing down toward the mill hidden away some- where in the distance. At one ])lace we saw where the flume carried the cane to the bottom of a valley and then an elevator system carried it up over tlie intervening hill and no doubt dro])ped it into another flume on the other side for a continued water trip to the mill. 112 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS The sugar cane fields do not look inviting as places to work. Thereby hangs a tale, of course; the tale of the labor situation in Hawaii. This labor can be done only by the yellow race, it appears. The whites cannot stand the work; the Filipinos do not take to it ; only the Japs and the Chinese can do it. They are therefore es- sential to the industry. Is it any wonder that, gaining intelligence, through education, they show some signs of taking advantage of their advantage? This trip gave the best view of sugar plan- tations that we have yet had; it combined with that, too, rare opportunities to see the beauties of the scenery along this side of the Hawaiian coast. And, indeed it was beautiful, much more l)eautiful in perspective, than otherwise, for the closer inspection of the beautiful cane fields al- ways showed a density of growth that suggests a niian-killing job working in it. There is heat and humidity there in sufficient quantities to satisfy the whims of the most enthusiastic vot- ary of the steam bath as a means of relieving human ills. This trip was made in about four hours and on our return to Hilo we were taken to the Hilo hotel where a dinner was served to the members of the press party by the people of Hilo. This was a delightful repast, free from prolonged or sleep producing speech making and was a very happy termination to that part of the i)rogram with which the people of Hilo had immediate connection at that time. Our next trip was to be to one of Hawaii's greatest of wonders, the active volcano Kilauea. This I might add, is one of the wonders of the world. It is one of the things that has made Hawaii famous in a world wide manner. The fame is not misplaced in the oi)inion of the members of the press party. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 113 LETTER XXII. The Volcano Kilauea Honolulu, October 18, 1921 The only tame volcano in the world. The only active volcano that you can walk right np to and pat on the head and say, " Be a nice little volcano now and don't act up violently, until we have time to get away;" and, it never does. Always, it gives people time to get out of the danger zone before it belches up its millions of tons of red hot lava and starts to rolling it be- yond its regular, immediate bounds. That is the volcano "Kilauea," meaning in the language of the Hawaiians, "Beware." And it was to see this volcano that we left the dinner given in our honor at the Hilo hotel rather early and taking automobiles started from sea level for a drive of about thirty miles, up to an elevation of a little over four thousand feet to Crater hotel, on the edge of the volcano above named. The drive was at first through cane fields, later through little forests of scrub- by pines, and still later through fern lanes, the ferns being ten to fifteen feet high, literally fern forests. Some cattle grazed on the hills. There was no other show of life excepting at a few small settlements, some of them on the railroad that runs to within a few miles of the volcano, and others to accommodate the various families who summer at the higher elevations to escape the heat below. There is a good road out to the vol- cano. For several miles out of Hilo it is con- crete, and I think the plan is to complete a con- crete read out to the hotel. At worst, however- 114 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS <»-* o .ti -^ T ^ a; > o — o , . rH r^ ;-« TO 3: O O ce ^ .ii =1-1 cd •^ ^ Qj - -- c^ O) j_^ 53 ^a.^^^ «^ :^ , t3 •;;^ ^ OJ rt^ -" , — I J3 _r- 2 O ^ 03 OS a > cd 03 " -^ 01 x! S tw C 0; — — m 0) If O) a> cp ^ a; Si ° ^ 03 C S S .2 O) "' '^ 03 > ■*-' a o Hi o o o oj cp j; ;i; j: M ^ q; VI be C C 03 to -^ a; J3 CD -^ EC ctj ^ o o o 0} cd :3 3 2 -^ ^ o o3 *J S - (D Oi o3 S CO 'I' ^ (-. Co -*-j 03 0) t3 o en 03 03 o o O CO O c^ ^ -*-> w r^ u m o cd bx) o ^% =t-i o o 2o , o . 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There is nothino- al^oiit the a])pearanee of thing's as one apDroaehes the universal d(^stin- ation of all visitin^' travelers here to indicate that one is in a ])art of the country especially distinguished from any other of the many in- teresting parts. Suddenly, though, we come to a little more thicklv poDulated ])art. There are some rather neatly ke])t cottages; and an occas- ional smiling face greets us from a nearby cot- tage veranda, such a face as prompts the per- fectlv natural surmise that some one is planted there for a s]")ecial, transitory puri:>ose. It may have been the face of an Iowa school teacher that smiled to us at one point, but we didn't stop to investigate. We drove on. Soon we came in sight of a rather roomily spread building. ''The hotel." our brown driver commented, and, incidentallv, we might men- tion that he was a man of few words and far between. But, we were nearing- our destination and di])lomacv dictated that he should begin to show a little interest in us. That show of con- cern might T)romi)t us to sliv) him a coin or two in ai^preciation of his consideration. Yes. we wei'f soon at th''> hotel. I stei^ned out of the car. From the wall at the left a slight smoke was issuing. I ])laced my hand over it and immediately the hand broke into a sweat. The smoke was steam. On everv hand, far and 116 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS near, at .short distances apart, smoke and steam was oozino- from the ground. I looked down to the left over the shrub covered hill and beyond a certain line of clear demarkation there spread a solid, rolling black plain of "vegetationless" ground, or stone. It was lava, some of it so re- cent a deposit as within the past five months. This gi-eat field of lava covers 2,650 acres. The sides about it are from 100 to 700 feet high and the whole is about eight miles in circumference. The first view of the volcano is rather dis- appointing for when we speak of a volcano, we expect to see a mountain, with a smoke stack on top of it from which an occasional outbreak re- sults in a great stream of lava belching from the top of the inverted cone and running like mad down the side of the mountain and extend- ing on and on, threatening villages and every- thing else devourable. We have explained though that this is a tame volcano. It is not built exactly as some other volcanoes are built. It has a way all its own and as a result it is all the more interest- ing. Away across the black field of lava, ap- parently beyond the center of the broad ex- panse, we notice at one point a segregated smoke center. From that point there is a con- stant rise of rather dense smoke and steam. That is the center of the whole commotion. It is the crater, called in the language of the Ha- waiians ''Halemaumau," the ''House of Ever- lasting Fire." (Later — At the above point, gentle reader, I was interrupted. The telephone bell in my room in the hotel rang and ansAvering it I was greet- ed with the inquiry: "Is there a typewriter ODeratin.o- in your room?" To that charge I had to admit guilt and I was then infonned that a com])laint liad come from adjoining rooms to WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 117 tlie Jiotel office to the effect that the sleep of the <)('('iii)ants of the rooms was being disturbed, by I lie above mentioned typewriter. The consider- ate voice over the line suggested that if I would close the transoms of my room, maybe I could get by with the noise awhile longer. I assured tlie voice that I would "cut off for the night, and all was well. Glancing at my watch I was surprised to note that we were just upon the threshold of midnight, an early hour for any- one to want to sleep in such a night-beautiful world as this. But I went to bed and tried to sleep. Below I heard the pounding of w^aters and I was moved to go to the telephone myself and bombard the clerk below with some such query as: "Isn't there an ocean, or something- down there in the back yard? It won't let me sleep. Can't you ask it to put down its tran- soms?" But I didn't. I listened to the incess- ant beat of the surf against the shore below until it became a sort of a soothing lullaby that in the end hurried me off to sleep, I think. This morning the surf is still beating upon the shore ; it has been doing the same thing ever since we came. It is presumed that it did the same thing steadily for several thousand years before w^e came and that it will go on doing so without pausing for breath for thousands of years more. I'm sorry the night clerk interrupted me last night for I was just getting a good second vis- ion of the volcano when that bell rang. I don't know if I can conjure up the details of the experience so well this morning, or not, but in the next installment of these epistles I will try.) 118 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXIII. The Volcano Kilauea (Continued) Honolulu, October 19, l!i21, Daylight AVliere was it I left off? Oli, yes, just after I mentioned the name of the inner crater: "Halemamnan," the "House of Everlasting' Eire." We had just glanced across the field of lava toward that center of interest, but Avere not to go that way yet. We had to register at the hotel and it was not very long until dinner time (sui)per at our house), so Ave would have to delay our excursion to the heart of the scene until a little later. In the meantime there was an op}iortunity to walk about in the nearer vi- cinity of the hotel and ex])lore thos? parts. Just a short distance away, ]ierliaps a hundred yards, was an interesting grou]) (^f sul])hur ]:)its. These were deep holes emitting sulphur fumes in streams of hot smoke. One a])])roached them with considerable timidity for they smelt and looked so like something so nearlv connected with things infernal as to give us pause. We were Avarned not to iuA^ade the shrub grown |)arts of the ground thereabouts, for there are hidden creA^asses, in the thick growths of Amines and small trees into Avhich one might slip and in doing so he Avould in all ]jrobability suffer seA^ere burns befoi-e he could be rescued from his plight. There is a Avell marked trail from the Xol- cano house doAvn over the two hundred foot wall, Avhich leads to the main crater. This trail leads under Ioav growing ''lehna trees and by manv sturdv little A'ellow-green sandalwood WITH WORLD'S I'KESS CONGRESS 119 120 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS trees" and directly to the shore of the lava field. There is a ]3atli, too, across this lava field leading to the crater. A bridge or two over large fissures in the lava are all that is required beyond the natural lava foot- ing. At intervals all over this lava field are spots from which hot steam arises and there is no doubt but that a very few feet down there is intense heat. The surface though is cool and perfectly safe for navigation, by pedestrians. Only one instance is recorded in modern times in which visitors across the lava field to the inner crater came near to disaster by rea- son of the misbehavior of the volcano. This party had walked across the upper crater over the lava to the inner crater and charmed by the strange scenes they had stayed on and on until far into the night. Returning by lantern light across the path which they had traversed in their approach to the crater they suddenly found their way blocked by a large crack in the old lava, through which red hot lava was ooz- ing. This situation was enough to startle the most fearless of explorers, and indeed it is faith- fully recorded that this little party felt the us- ual sensations of tragic consternation when they saw the plight they were in; but, they picked their ways cautiously along the crevasse until they came to a narrow point where they were able by stepping upon a ledge to jump across the newly flowing lava and then, they hurried home. We did not try the foot path to the inner crater. There is an automobile road that tra- verses some seven miles in reaching a near ap- ])roach to this crater and since we had little time to stay and wanted to make the best of our time it was decided that when we went we would all go in cars. Dinner at the hotel was WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 121 served at six o'clock and it was tiio i)iaii that we would all drive over after dinner in order to see the crater for tlie first time at nifi;lit. When 1 step])ed out from tlie dining room after this dinner it was already getting dark and across the' lava fields I noted that the cen- tralized smoke of the afternoon had now cleep- ened into a centralized glow of light, varying frequently in its intensity, but so strong in its effects as to assure one that there was a real fire as the basis of the smoke which had so en- slaved our curiosity during the earlier part of the evening. In automobiles we were whirled through a densely foliaged road up hills and down, around sharp corners, through narrow gorges, getting occasional glimpsesi of the crater. The road has been dubbed by some the "path to Hell" and like the alleged path to "Hell" it is not a hard road to travel. In general it is smooth, not dangerously narrow and the scenery by the side is fine. The only appalling thing in the night is the occasional glim|)ses of deep, dark pits, baby craters, we were informed, which we were to have a better chance to inspect the next morning; but as for this trip, its dominant ob- ject was to see the "House of Everlasting Fire" by night. "You have to walk," our driver briefly ad- vised us, breaking another long period of sil- ence as we came to the outer edge of the crater and found a bare road, free from growths of all kinds and directly across the lava toward the pit. And, sure enough, soon we came to great obstacles in the road. They were huge chunks of lava piled hit and miss across our pathway. But a few months ago this road led almost flush up to the edge of the inner crater, but, the volcano going on a sudden rampage 122 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS threw out sufficient floods of lava to block the road some half mile back from the pit and therefore we had to walk and climb over the lava toward Halemanman. The pathway was marked, one side of it, by streams of some white substance that clearly led the way. Occasion- ally we would pass a point from which a hot breath of air would break from the lava bed and startle us as it hit us in the; face. Getting nearer, the suljDhur fumes threatened to stran- gle us ; but we worked around toward the wind- ward side of the crater in order that the fumes might go the other way. Soon we were within sound of the crater. There was a continuous hissing noise of escap- ing steam; now low, now so high as to suggest that a dozen railway engines were vying in their efforts to out-hiss each other. We come now, so near to the edge of the crater that we can look into ])art of it. (I don't know whether I like this or not. Somewhere, not far from here, they are firing- big gun salutes to something or somebody this morning, and just now, one of them exploding shook our hotel to the sixth story, where I re- side, while a ])uff of air, the direct result of the explosive imj^act, mussed up my desk supplies in a disconcerting manner. What I object to, though, is this top-rocking of the hotel in which I sit. There goes another — I'm going down stairs until they quit this foolishness — I prefer volcanoes to twelve inch guns. Later — Well, I did. Stepping out into the hallway I asked the Japanese "chaml)erman:" "Wliat's all the shooting about? — it shakes the house." He grinned an un-understandable grin while he looked at me, and then he said "Packi" or something like that. I looked at him and thought with all the thinking power I WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 123 had. What did "Packi" mean. Suddenly it dawned upon nie that he meant to say "prac- tice" and 1 surmised that the naval boys were shooting at marks far across the bay. "Prac- tice?" I asked. " Yez — yez" the Jai)anese boy said and pointed across the bay. 1 went on down stairs and stepping out of the elevator and over into the smoking room adjunct to the lobby of the hotel I stood face to face with Frank Buck- ley of my own home town, Washington, Iowa, just arrived this morning from the orient, and headed states-ward. "Be sure your sins will find you out." Neither knew the other was within four thousand miles. If the big gun shooting hadn't di'iven me down stairs I fancy Frank would have passed through Honolulu without either of us knowing that we were so near to each other. He was just starting out with a party over town so I did not get a chance to visit with him then. I hope to see him again before his boat goes on tomorrow. Now let's return in i)roper manner to the consideration again of the "House of Everlasting Fire." If Washington people will cease interruptions and the navy will refrain from further' "packi" for a while, we may get through next time.) 124 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXIV. The Volcano Kilauea (Continued) Honolulu, October 19, 1921 Wlieii the naval practice shooting and Frank Buckley interrupted our story we had just crossed the main crater of the volcano Kilauea and were approaching the inner crater Hale- niaumau, the ' ' House of Everlasting Fire. ' ' We had traversed the "'Road to Hell" in automo- biles and had picked our way over the heat breathing lava paths to the edge of Halemau- mau. Yes, we had come to the point where we could look over the edge and see down into the pit and we had listened with considerable trepi- dation, as we approached, to the loud hissing in the lower confines of the crater. This inner crater of the volcano is about 2000 feet across and its precipitous sides lead down sometimes to a depth of some 700 feet. That is Avhen the lava has sunk to its lowest depth recorded in recent years. The evening we visited the crater, the lava was some 200 feet up in it, covering several acres, and rear- ing themselves from the molten lava were two rather large hills of hardened lava rocks, etc., while all around about and under the min- iature mountains bubbled the molten lava. AVe peered down into the pit under a spell of strange fascination. I remember I thought that all that was needed in addition to the scene below to perfect one of my childish conceptions of the real inferno to which bad boys were eventually destined was the moving figure of a tall, slender, dark "complected" gentleman WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 125 with horns, a tail with a knot in it, and a two l)ronged pitchfoi-k in liis hands. Certainly, yes, we expected him to have a sort of a sardonic expression on his face and to be constantly wel- coming* various of our unloved acquaintances into his realms. Halemaumau is nature's proudest illustra- tion of an inferno. It is Hades modernized, brought up to date, furnished free of charge to all comers. It is a strange, thrilling, awe in- spiring experience to stand on the side of a mountain, look down into an enormous pit and see great masses of boiling lava, hear the noises of escaping steam, and witness great chunks of stone and rock drop with a wild plunge into the lava, throwing it up in great yellowish red splashes and columns. Then, too, there were pools of lava, great wide pools that w^ere in con- stant rolling motion, bursting frequently up into big bubbles, as the gases forced their way through. There were recurring bursts of noisy steam escapements followed often by the col- lapse of certain portions of the little mount- ains. Moving around the pit farther, each new position diversified the strange scene. The lights of the volcano dispelled all other lights. There was nothing else in the world to see save this deep, boiling pit, of bubbling and flowing- lava, the helpless mountains in the midst and the precipitous walls over which we hung and watched and watched and watched. There is a fascination about this volcano that makes people want to go back again and yet again and again. It is the only place that I have seen om this trip that I would be more than delighted to go back and see right away again. It grows upon one, I think, because of the constant change. Then, too, we know that tomorrow the lava mav be three hundred feet 126 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS PEGGY AND "BILL' "Bill" is a native Hawaiian guide to the various wonder points in the actively volcanic parts of the island of Hawaii. It is said of him, that in the absence of other food he can live for several days on Kilauea lava. He never lost a chance to help World Press Delegates in their effort to see and understand. What he doesn't know about the crater and the surroundings hasn't been found out yet. Thank you "Bill" for many courtesies. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 127 (loop iiistond of two liinidrcd feet deep and the next day it may be still dcepei" wiiile in a few more da.ws it may fill the whole pit to the top and he leaking' out over the sides, Oidy a few moiitlis a,<;() it did all that and incidentally de- stroyed a full half mile of perfectly <;()()d road that had been built ri<;-ht u]) to the ed- mountain and an ocean of molten lava ])()ured out inundating- tlie forest tract, in a few moments, to a dei)tli of fifteen, twenty, tliirty feet. What lia|)i)ened? So rapidly did tlie lava flow, aud so cinickly did it cool, that it sur- rounded the trees and solidified. The trees were of course killed, set afire and burned to death, but the heat of a hnrnino- tree was not sufficient to keep the lava in the licpud state and the result was that the lava "froze" about the trunk of the tree, just as it was when the inundation occurred and now we have in the tree melds big' and little wells, the exact size of the tree trunks that once occupied the space now occupied by the holes. The tree molds are holes in the ground sur- rounded by hardened lava that shows on the face of it the grain of the tree that the lava de- stroyed, probably thousands of years ago. It must have been long, long ago, for there is a new soil over the old lava now; a soil deep enough to nourish another forest which has grown upon the site of the old; but here and there and all about are those deep tombs of the great trees, the trunks of which were surmerged and incinerated long, long ago hy the petulant whim of a fire-belching mountain. It was probably Mauna Loa that was guilty of this indecency toward the lumber trust. All about are ruins of her spiteful work. She has never been dependable, while Kilauea, has very sehhmi been otherwise, so far as history shows. Yes. once in 1790 it is claimed that Kilauea, in a sudden burst of anger, threw stones and ashes so far that a band of native soldiers was caught 134 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS aiKi several smothered under the far flung de- bris. That is the only comparatively modern record of dire destrnction attributed to this gen- erally docile and well behaved creature. Leaving the scene of the tree molds our au- tomobiles again turned toward the road that led to the craters and, by daylight, we had the priv- ilege of again traversing that interesting path. There were several miles of travel through most interesting tropical foliage, the most striking of which were the specimens of tree ferns, but there were other interesting growths such as the ohelo bushes which yield a refreshing fruit, ber- ries the size of a small grape and bluish in color when ri]3e. Along this road by daylight, too, we had the oi)portunity to view more understandingiy some of the smaller extinct craters which abound hereabouts. One, "Little Kilauea," is particu- larly interesting. It is about a half mile across and some seven hundred feet deep, the l)ottom being as smooth as a ball room floor, apparent- ly. The walls are very precipitous and the for- mation perfectly conical, the cone inverted There is no break in the walls. Our driver again released his tongue long enough to explain that three men and a Ford had gone over the walls and liuri-ied to the bottom, never to ride in a Ford in these realms again. Such a thing was possible, we could readily observe, but not at all necessary, since there was plenty of load room without crowding tlie crater and f^ven to get to the edge of the decline one must ciimli a small ridge. "How did it happen?" we asked. "Drunk!" was the brief response. In a dar- ing, drunken, uncaring, unthinking frenzy the driver liad wiggled liis machine a little too closely to tlio od^e, and over it went carrying WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 135 w illi il tlii'eu iiiaudliii liuiiian bciii^s all luil'it at that time to face St. Peter at the [>early gates. There were two or three of tliose roadside craters, l)al)y craters, and then we came sud- denly to a sionl)oard that pointed the way to the lava "tul)es. " Here we left our cars and treading our way througli the dense brush we came after a short while to the edge of a deeply foliaged, steep decline. Standing oa the edge of it and looking about we could see that it, too, was a ci-ater, but evidently a crater of long standing. It was tree-grown all up and down the sides and in the bottom. The trees were tall, gangling. There were great masses of vines, and other obstructing shrubbery, the whole taking on the aspect of age, age, 8^e and more age. A steep trail of short zig zags led down into this damp declivity. AVater dripped from the trees, the hand-built wooden steps over which we i)assed were soft to the feet as a cushioned ])ath. Down and down and still down we went until we finally touched the bottom, perhaps six hundred feet below the starting point. It was but a short distance across the bottom and then we climbed ui^ a few feet un- til we came in sight of a wooden bridge, a stair- way across a dark crevice and, in the wall above, a great dark hole. We walked rather carefully over that slen- der bridge and we hung closely to the railings as we climbed the dripinng stairway and then we stepped Avitli a little hesitation into the great tunnel. This was the lava tube. We had no lanterns but flash lights supplied by the guides, carried our closely huddled group on into the tube. Occasionally some one would shriek for more light. I remember that we clung to each other close! V. T kc^t my fingers lightly touch- ing the di'ess of a woman in front of me while 136 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS a siuklen flask of light revealed the fact that she was clinging- tenaciously to the hand of one of the Chinese members of our party. A woman behind clawed intermittently up and down my coat. On we went through that deep, dark tunnel for a quarter of a mile. There was no danger, no pits, the highway had been established by an engineer who created no hazards. We finally came to the end, out into the light again, on a side hill and we had traversed a highway which perha]is a hundred thousand years ago had been the tunnel through which a roaring volcano had discharged its lava product out u])on the face of the earth. By some means it had established a path that way, and that path is still there, good as it was long before Adam pitched horse shoes in, the garden of Eden while Eve played the ukelele under a banyan tree. This lava tunnel was, I should say a))out 15 feet in diameter. At one place it narrowed down to a point where I could just touch the ceiling, but in general it maintained its full rounded form. One could easily imagine the flood of lava pouring through the tube, and the size of it ]^rompted the further surmise that such a quantity was carried as filled full a dee]) hole in the sea and raised the level of the adja- cent territory rapidly. The wonder is that at the finish the tube was not left full of lava; but it wasn't. Nature had left another wonderful thing for men to speculate al)Out. Some looked upon this natural curiosity as one of the most amazing of all in this vicinity of wonders. This tube had just been discov- ered in recent years, we learn. Two boys prowl- ing througli the jungles, dared to climb down into the crater and while nosing around through the bottom caught a glimpse of the great dark WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 137 liole in the wall above. T was told !jy one of the i>iii(l('s that at one ]>oint in the tnbe another breaks away to the left and goes on, indel'inite- ly, some snrniising that it leads so great a dis- tance as thirty miles, to the sea. No one eares to ex])l()r(' it. Tliere were no volnnteers in onr party. 138 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXVI. Kilauea in Daylight Honolulu, October 20, 1921 Leaving the lava tube we drove directly to the crater, iKilaiiea again. The inspection of the crater is not complete, no difference how often it is visited, but it is far from complete if it is not seen in both daylight and dark. We had seen it the night before; now we were to see it by daylight, at a time when all the details of the wall formations could be observed and when the lava beds could be more closely in- spected. Indeed the old lava beds present a large field for exploration in themselves. There are caverns and tunnels and other odd forma- tions at many i)oints in the 2(550 acres covej-ed and one might wander for days and weeks over that broad expanse finding something new and interesting to' look at every few moments. Of course, there is danger in such adventures and great care must be taken. The daylight view of Halemaumau is not so vivid in its suggestion of infernal things, but it is vivid enough. The redliot, molten lava still boils in the pit and the escaping steam still makes its threatening noise. The walls, the cracks, the crevices, the swirling ])ools, the steam, all comlune to make the daylight view a thing to })roduce unmeasured astonishment. We saw it when the lava level was compara- tively low. Sometimes, as stated before, it rises almost flush to the top and under such condi- tions the lake is many times larger than it was when we saw it and the extreme heat prevents people from going so near to it as we could, on WITH WORLDS PRESS CONGRESS 139 our visit. We could i»() riglil up to llie edge and hang* over. This daylight visit was the occasion for much picture taking. The two movie men were there and one invaded the lower realms getting a "close-up" of the lower parts of the crater. At one point one can climb down quite a dis- tance into the inner crater when the lava is low. Above we examined in a bigger way the con- fines of the house of fire and enjoyed, too, the view of the field of lava, glistening in many var- iegated shades of black and l)ronze m the bright sunlight. Dr. T. A. Jagger, of the Massachusetts In- stitute of Technology is in charge of the observ- atory on the edge of the volcano. He makes daily observations and is devoting his whole time to the study of tlie phenomena in connec- tion with this volcano. He delivered a short lecture to our assembled grou]), after he had in- vited tlie rather extensive crowd to come a lit- tle farther away from the edge, observing that he didn't think it best to have too much weight so close to the fiery depths. Such a suggestion coming from him was quite reassuring, our I'eaders will surmise. He explained that the heat required to melt the lava in this volcano seemed to be about 1750 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature below the usual heat required in other volcanoes. That, he stated, was the reason that the volcanic ac- tion was not more explosive. The gases es- cape without great pressure and Kilauea is therefore not so threatening as many others of the active volcanoes. He explained, also that this volcano, and all others, are merely sur- face manifestations. The theory that the lava comes from deep down in an earth, the center of which is fire and li(iuid, is not tenable. We 140 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS do not live on an earth that is in danger of col- hqj.se b}^ reason of internal weakness. The earth in general is a solid ball, rigid as steel, heavy as iron. \^olcanoes and snch external manifes- tations are but little pimples on the face of mother earth, occasioned by gaseons combina- tions which ])econie inflammable the moment they connect. Science has demonstrated these facts definitely. They are demonstrable. Earthquakes are but the settling of the sur- face crust over some points disturbed by vol- canic eruptions. A great loss of earth substance by volcanic eruption at one point weakens the crust at that point and the surface seeks bal- ance by shifting. But, the great round earth itself is as sound as a ball of solid steel. The possibility of the utilization of volcanic heat is now coming in for some consideration. The heat may eventually be used in electric storage processes. Prof. Jagger's observations are principally for the general satisfaction of the scientific world and it is hoped that by keeping an exact record of the behavior of Kil- auea they may be able to get the cycle of i)er- formances and by that means make such de- ductions looking toward practical use as are possible. In the course of their explorations Prof. Jagger and his liel])ers found the l)ones of a woman, in sitting posture, facing the volcano through the opening" in a rock cave on the side of an adjoining mountain. Around the bones of the woman were certain ol)jects, evidently put there by human hands, leading to the be- lief that the woman's body was placed that way inirposely after death, her tomb being the cave facing the pit of fire. In another ])lace they found bare foot]irints of human beings set in lava sand which must have been at least 130 WITH WORLD'S i'llKSS CONGRESS 141 to l."j() years of a,t;('. These studies iiatiii'ally niako a stroii<;' api)eal to certain types of mind and Prol'. Ja^'ger's mind is of that type. To those of us, used to solid earth, and un- used to earth(|uakes and voleanie eru])tions, the tlnniiilit of living in such a country is not a])- l)ealing. The people of Hawaii seem to liave no fear. Even though Hilo lias been threat- ened a couple of times, the residents do not seem to look upon their position as particularly dangerous. The lava flows slowly by the time it gets down as far as they live. They will have time to climb a hill or get out into the sea. The rancher on the uplands, it is stated, is always careful to build on the hillside, instead of in the depressions, realizing that the lava will natur- ally seek the depressions first and, "while he knows that he may awake any morning and find the greater })art of his fann cnisted over with hard, sterile, black rock," ^yet he realizes, also, that eventually, in the course of a few thousand years, that rock will melt down again into good, productive soil, so he doesn't worry. Should we? We turned away from the House of Ever- lasting Fire, reluctantly. We wanted to stay longer. Pele's bluster is fascinating. She sings a song of many tones. They are strangely ap- ])ealing, and slie is beautiful in her way. We do not know if we shall ever see her again, but certain it is, she has rarely had as devoted an audience as she had on this occasion when the group of press peo])le gathered about her throne of fire and made obeisance to her flaming maj- esty. Leaving the volcano we went immediately to the Volcano hotel and had luncheon, (dinner at our house) and then were driven back to Hilo, Avliere a special function was in prepara- 142 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS tion for the evening, and at midnight we were to sail for Maui, where there were to be a series of other festivities, put on by the people of that amazingly rich little island. As Ave drove back toward Hilo the thought- fulness and care of our driver was illustrated by the sudden discovery that we had run out of gasoline, while yet but about half way to our destination. While we were waiting for gaso- line to be brought to us, from a station, for- tunately not far away, a delegate from Quebec and this writer walked on until w^e came to a village and turned up into the school yard where Japanese boys aged from eight to twelve were playing ball. A great host of little girls were playing in another part of the yard and m> companion, Oswald Mayrand, sought to take their pictures. They fled into the school house, but later ventured out, under their teacher's encouragement, and permitted the picture to be taken. There were some one hundred fifty pupils in the school. The principal was a Jap- anese man and his assistant a Japanese girl, who was arrayed in Japanese costume, wore sandals, a many colored kimono with a cushion at the back and had a short body with a big head and face with a great bulk of jet black hair. We visited with the teachers and the chil- dren, had our pictures taken enmasse, and all in all were very glad that our Hawaiian driver had been so careless as to run out of gasoline. Finally the gasoline came, and on the second attempt we made the grade. We had turned our backs upon the road to "hell;" had desert- ed the "House of Everlasting Fire" and we were to have nothing more to do, at that time, with the spitfire goddess Pele, although we all still confess to the enslaving quality of her charms. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 143 LETTER XX\'ii. Mr. Kawasaki Talks Honolulu, October 20, 1921 From the Nolcanoeis we returned to Hilo and prepared for a dinner to be given by the Hilo Yacht Ghib and later to attend a special enter- tainment to be put on in the Japanese theater for the benefit of the visitors to the city. It is hardly necessary to say much about that Yacht club dinner. Will it not be sufficient to just print the menu and let it go at that? A study of the menu by our readers will demon- strate to them at once that Iowa people don't know anything about high living at all. Out here in the Hawaiian islands we hit the high spots only when it conies to eating. Well, here is that menu. Read it and see what you missed: Kai-Helo O Ka Hie Inai Barena Mikomiko Oliva O Italia Akaakai Onaona Mau'u Hilo la Lawalu O Kanakea Uwala Mahikihiki Puaa Kaliia Waiono O Ka Apala Uwala Uwai O Puna Maia O Ka E-A Na Ulu O Weli Luau O Waipio He Ono Kaohi Puu Koele-Palau Hau Huihui O Maiina Kea Na Meaono Kope O Kona Pua Ka Uwahi O Kilauea All this was served on beautifully decorated tables, gorgeous yellow and red flowers being used in an abundant profusion, while stream- ers of big leaved greenery were everywhere in evidence. There were a number of special dig- nitaries present at this dinner, among them General Charles Summerall, in command at 144 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Scliofield Barracks, U. 8. Army Department of Hawaii; Admiral Simj^son, in command of the naval forces with headquarters at Pearl Har- bor; Japanese Consul General Yadda; Senator John Wise; Mayor John Wilson and others. The most interesting jDart of the dinner to this writer, though, and the j^art that will be most interesting to our readers, if they are at all interested, was the prejiaration of "Puaa iKalua." That we watched and it Avas interest- ing l)ecause it was ]H-epared in the old Hawaiian method. The "Puaa Kalua" was roast pig, and it was roasted out in the front yard, in a hole in tlie ground. Native Hawaiians presided over the operation and it was accomplished by the use of hot stones, upon which the dressed pig was laid in a pit and, not satisfied with making the pig lie upon a bed of red hot rocks they also stuffed his "innards" with the same material. He was wrapped then in big leaves, called ti (tee) leaves, and sweet potatoes and bananas were also snugly tucked round about him and he was left in tropic comfort for some two or three hours. I watched the disinterment. The dusky col- ored cook would bathe his hand in cold water, grab a rock from the pig's interior, take an- other hand l)ath and drag out another rock un- til the naked pig was in shape to be lifted in fragments from the grimy looking pit. The scene was not conducive to the develo]3ment of a good ai)petite for roast pig, or anything else, and the ing served was not nearly as tasty as are the portions of roast pork that are dished up after they have gone through the modern cooking processes at home; but, this was done for the novelty of the thing, and no doubt, as a novelty, we ought to be able to stand for it at least once. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 145 After llic (liiiner, which was (•oncludcd as above noted witli "i)ua Ua mvahi o kilauea," which ill this iiarticiihii' instance was intended to mean ''smokes,'' tliere was a ])i-oftTam of speakiiifi' as usual and tlien the guests were driven to tlie loeal Japanese theater where a special sliow was to be given in honor of the press delegates ))y the Japanese of the city. The Japanese population of Hilo had made great preparation for this performance and it was a splendid entertainment. Not the least in- teresting part of the show to the visitors was the Japanese audience. S])ecial seats had been left for the press delegates but all others were occupied by the Japanese residents of Hilo. There were hundreds of them, all sizes, shapes and forms; all in good humor, smiling, happy. This was their night! There was, of course, deliberately on the l)art of the Japanese, a strong flavor of Ameri- icanism throughout the most of the program. It opened with the singing of Ameiica by some fifty or sixty little Japanese girls and boys pret- tily grouped upon the stage and waving U. S. flags. Following that came the first "insinu- ating" part of the progTam, an address of wel- come by little Miss Higachi, a cute little Jap- anese miss of about fifteen years of age; one who s]:)oke unl)roken English, and one who, had it not been for the almond turn to her eyes and the little deeper than usual dark to her com- plexion might have passed very easily for a bright student of an Iowa high school. I question if she wrote her address all her- self. There were some adroit references to the race problem made and there was a delicate un- dercurrent of appeal for sympathy for the Jap- anese. There was nothing objectionable about the little talk, but there was a transparency in 146 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS it tliat did not escape detection on the part of the members of the press company present. In a very gentle way the little girl nrged upon her hearers the claim that the Japanese children here are won to American customs and institu- tions; irrevocably devoted to them, and the fin- al thought left with the audience had to do with the fact, that, since these children, born of Jap- anese parents in the United States, had been reared under advanced institutions fostered by the Americans it would be impossible for them to be anything but Americans. Reared in our schools, under our flag, taught our way of liv- ing, it would be impossible for the children of the common Japanese living in the United States to go back to Japan and exist as they have to exist in Japan. In other words, un- less they ;are allowed to stay in America they will be homeless. The little girl made a hit, de- spite her daring, but at that she wasn't a mark- er to what followed later in the evening. Following this address of welcome tliere was a very pretty exercise by little Japanese girls, probably five to eight years of age. Spe- cial instrumental numbers on the "koto" and flute by the Misses "Uyemoto," "Hiratsuka" and "Shimamura" and Messrs. "Maruliashi" and "Takuchi. " Then there were more exer- cises; the song "Aloha;" an exercise "Yama- to-Sakura;" a beautiful Japanese dance given by two of the young women in Japanese cos- tume and following that a very spectacular, l^ril- liant and all together novel parade of ancient Japanese characters. These were supposed to represent legendary characters and some some- what obscure historical characters, no doul)t. The spectacle was a very novel and beautiful thing. Followino- that came the second sensation of WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 147 the c'veiiiiii;'. Mr. K. Jvawasaki was billed Tor an address, and he was "there with the goods." As has been stated before: this was Japanese evening. Mi-. Kawasaki had j)rei)ared for it. He opened his address with the most extrava- gant words of res])e('t in favor of his audience of "ilhistrions" people representing the "most powerful influence in the world" and deplored liis unwortliiness to presmne to address them in a fitting manner; but, he did his best! And, he launched into a bold, unequivocating discussion of the race question; challenging the charge that the Japanese are not loyal to the United States and hesitating not a minute to discuss any ])hase of the controversy from A to Z. Mr. Kawasaki is a graduate of one of our eastern colleges; speaks perfect English; is a ready orator and his arguments were made in about the same manner that is used by ])rofes- sional de))aters. He was as logical as could be expected, fairly convincing in many of his as- sertions and claims, but his address just about confirmed the suspicion already gaining ground in the minds of many that the Japanese had staged this show just for the purpose of getting in one good shot at the press people; feeling that unless they did so, the press people, in the hands always of the Americans would go away en- tirely too prejudiced against the Japs. I can hardly say that the members of the press party were provoked when they learned that they had been sort of double crossed by the Japanese. Some were amused. Some ex- cused them. Others scolded because a good show had been interrupted by too much propa- ganda effort. C. Yada, the Japanese consul at Honolulu, was present and the day after the in- cident he apologized to the president of the press congress for the "nerve" of the Jap ora- 148 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS tor, and all was forgiven. To the credit, too, of the Japanese chairman of the evening, it must be stated that he began to feel that the orator was getting too long winded, so he called him down by advising him that there was still considerable "show" left, it was getting late and the "illustrious visitors" were billed to sail from the island of Hawaii at 11 o'clock that night. Mr. Kawasaki quit rather abruptly. He had imposed good naturedly upon good nature. There was no i^articular harm done. The Jap- anese of Hilo had prepared for the Press Con- gress visitors such a show as few of them had ever seen before; none might ever see again. The event was all the more interesting because of the Kawasaki event. This was something strikingly different; typical, perhaps. It gave the "illustrious visitors" another view of the Japanese, and we were out for "views." Many were seeking knowledge. This came at an un- expected moment. It came in a way that was a little annoying to the one who was seeking after entertainment only, but to those who like to see into the depths of things this incident was a real happy occurrence. Next came some demonstrations of ju-jitsu by Japanese athletes and this ])art of the pro- gram made a never to be forgotten hit. Few of those present had ever seen anything like it be- fore, and the performance was really marvelous in its illustration of Japanese skill in the art above named. It was so interesting because it was so different. The finale of this part of the program was not as pleasant as the wrestling demonstrations. One of the muscular Jap boys ran a few long ]uns, they looked like hair pins, through the muscles of his right arm and let them stay there quite a while, while several in WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 14i) tlie audicTico joined tliis writer in sliivering. The final reatiire oi' tlie show was the most spectaeiihir thing of the evening; a wordless play, entitled "The Spirit of Spider." This was so splendidly oriental in all its features as to l)e a rare treat to all. The acting was bril- liant; the costumes gorgeously Japanese in ev- ery ]iavticular. Thus ended Japanese evening in liilo. The events in connection were sufficiently signifi- cant to get large press notice, but no one was liui-t and the press people got a chance to hear most of Mr. Kawasaki's carefully prepared ad- dress, in which the Jap cause was interestingly and cleverlv defended. 150 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXVIIL "The House Built By the Sun" Honolulu, October 24, 1921 We left Hilo the evening" of October 14th, hound for Kahnhii, ishmd of Maui, where we arrived tlie morning of the 15th and were received by tlie peoj^le of Ivahnhii in the cor- dial way common to all the people of the Hawai- ian islands. There was a county fair on and im- mediately after the boat had docked, as nearly as it could at this shallow water port, and the visitors had been taken ashore by small boats, they were transported in automobiles to the fair grounds where they had a fine opportun- ity to see, not only the products of the island representing modern forms of things agricul- tural, Init very many uniquely interesting cre- ations, the work of native Hawaiians who still do clever weaving, etc., out of native grasses. Also there was on display very many relics of ancient Hawaii. Aside from the purely native features, typi- fying early Hawaii, the fair was not much dif- ferent from an Iowa fair, in its exhibits and its entertainments. They had their grain, fruit and floral exhibits; their fancywork booths, their stock show, their automobile and implement ex- hibits, etc. Then, too, they had the merry-go- round, the baby rack, the cane racks, the ferris wlieel, fruit stands, "hot dog" sandwiches (or something that smelt like scorched dog,) ice cream cones, candies, balloons, etc., etc. The "different" thing about it all though ^vas the conglomerate crowd: the (liinese, the Japanese, the Portuguese, the Filii)inos, the na- )-> WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 151 t'wo I l.iwniiniis, tlio Koreans, tlic four or five other iiatioiia lilies ('ons])it'iiously in evidence, big* and little, roaniini^' al)oiit over the grounds, eating cones, licking all-day suckers, smoking cigarettes, laugliing, chattering in many ton gues and liaving a regular "county fair" of a time. There were boys of fifty-seven different var- ieties, it apix'ared, and of as man^^ sizes. Not an uncommon sight was that of Japanese moth- ers, dressed in native costume; short little women, with big heads, big l)undles of hair on the summit, wearing kimonos and sandals and shuffling along over the grounds leading a baby or two, with three or four or five straggling along behind. There were the Kiwaiian mat- rons and misses, too. They run to corpulency rather freely and they dress a great deal like the women of the United States dress, although the short skirt has not engaged the attention of tlie Hawaiian women yet. Tliey still wear long slvirts and seem to favor the train. On a little stage at the end of one of the exhibit halls little Hawaiian girls in grass skirts danced the hula hula to rather crude music made by an an- cient Hawaiian dame on a very simph^ formed stringed instrument which may have been in- tended for a ukelele. The most interesting girls we saw were Chinese girls, young ladies about sixteen to nineteen years of age. They dressed in silk or sateen pantaloons and coat, the pantaloons loosely hanging, the coat in some instances a sort of a cut-away, rather long. They wore dainty American shoes, no hats and their hair was either in a braid down the back, or in two coils at the back of the head, the coils held up by pretty white ornaments, made of ivory, or bone. A group of those dainty little creatures 152 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS nioviiift" about, neatly though iiiii(|uely dressed, never failed to attract the admiring attention of the visitors from, abroad. No one could fail to l)e impressed by the common sense simplic- ity of the garments and there was an entire ab- sence from the attire of anything that might be regarded as suggestive or daring. It takes our own American girls to pull that kind of stuff. I don't remember whether I explained be- fore that the Hawaiian islands are all volcanic. They extend from the southeast to the north- west, some 1600 miles. There are about thirty of them, but only a few of the larger ones are large enough to he usefully inhabited. The one of those farthermost southeast is Hawaii, and it is the newest in volcanic formation. It is not finished yet. Its volcanoes are still at work, some of them as heretofore described. The island of Maui, next northwest, is the next youngest island. It has no live volcanoes on it, but it has the biggest dead one in the world, it is claimed. That is, the l)iggest ex- tinct crater. It is called Mt. Haleakala— "The House Built by the Sun." Arrangements had been made to care for those of our party who wanted to make the ascent of Haleakala to the number of thirty, there being night accommo- dations for about that number at the summit. Some forty-five of our party had expressed a wish to make the ascent, but in the final an- alysis but twenty-six lined up for the tri]). This writer was one of that number and in conse- quence the twenty-six left the rest of the party at noon and started for the sunnnit of the mount- ain-, the object being to get there l)efore sunset. Haleakala is a little over 10,000 feet high, and in making the ascent we started at sea level. It is not like our western mountains, nl- WITH WORLDS I'llESS CONGRESS 153 ready six, seven, ei,i;lil tlioiisaiul feet lii^li be- fore they start to go higher. Here you start ch'ai- at tlie bottom and go clear to the to]). For thai ii'ason tlie trip is not an easy one. It means a \ery great change of temperature in a short \vhih% as well as a sudden change from heavy sea level atmosj^here to an exceedingly more ra rifled brand of ozone. We went as far as we could in the automo- biles and then changed to horses for the last eight miles of the trip and the final cliral) of between five and six thousand feet. The north side of Haleakala edges on a narrow strip of the island of Maui and shortly after the ascent begins the ocean can be seen on both sides of this narrow, low strip while the mountainous country beyond contributes a fascinating ele- ment to the scenery. With each increasing rise of a few hundred feet new lieauties come in view and at any time during the u])ward jour- ney, if one will just stop and look, he can get such a breath of delightful scenery as will fill him full to overflowing with poetical thoughts. Of course, though, poetical thoughts and rocky mountain paths over which one rides on a somewhat reluctant horse, or mule, do not al- ways blend into a perfectly harmonious com- bination. One sometimes has difficulties in ad- justing his mental self to that nicety of bal- ance that will permit him to forget the rather precii)itous declines at his side, ignore the ever present thought of what might happen if his horse would stuml)le and fall, and persist in fix- ing his mind and thoughts upon the sweeping landscape beyond, the green towering mount- ains in the distance, the soft bed of sea weaving into pretty little bays, and the gentle horizon of blue wrapping its tender arms around the whole scene. 154 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS We could not look at scenery all the while as we ]Hcked our deliberate way up the rough and rugged path heavenward. True, some ten guides and other local companions Avatched carefully that there were no accidents and that no one wandered from the path, or lagged too far behind, but with all those safeguards each rider had his own important duties to perform in saving himself from possible eml)arrassment. Most of us, as on previous occasions, trusted to our mounts, hung on to our saddles, and, of course, glanced outward once in a while, just often enough to make it appear that we were not helplessly afraid. We added frequently to our bold attitude the testimony of such an ex- clamation as "Isn't that i)erfectly wonderful." And it always was, so we were safe at all times in extravagant comments whether they were heart-prompted or not. We reached the top of the mountain before sundown and we stood upon the rim of Halea- kala in broad daylight and looked down into the immense crater before the shades of night had begun to darken the depths. We saw the shades finally come, the rim of sunlight slowly creep up along the walls, and the deep of the crater take on an unspeaking darkness. Before night had come we had distinguished tlie thirteen little craters within the big one, tiny cones, from 700 to 1000 feet high insignif- icantly dotting the great bed of the crater prop- er. We could detect, too, at a depth of about 3000 feet evidences of some vegetable life on the floor of the crater. The ages have built a floor of soil over a ])art of the crater bottom and on that has grown up trees and other greenery and in this comparatively safe zone wild goats make merry as the centuries come and go. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 155 The ra.i>'i>'('(l rim of tliis crater is 20 miles in eirciimference. 'I'lie mount;! in em))lie(l its flow of lava out tliroii<2,li an openiiiii,- that reaches to the sea but the <;i-eatest (lei)th within the crater is oOOO feet. 8ome have i)ronounced the grand- eur of llaleakala more impressive than tliat of the (irand Canyon of the Colorado. As for this writer, I ])refer to remain nentral in tlie con- troversy. The Grand Canyon of the Colorado illustrates the worlv of erosion. The flow of many waters during liundreds of centuries has torn great gaps through the mountains and left on the exposed walls such marvelous color- ings on such wide stretches of rock canvas as make all men marvel. At Halekala another nature force wrought its wonderful picture. Fire in a blatant mood stirred up such a commotion in the heart of this mountain as resulted in an exi)losion that threw an ocean of flames and lava floods tlirough the to]) of the mountain and left the poor old mountain with its heart exposed to the changing weathers of countless centuries. Ai)proaching the summit, one would ex])ect to find the usual top of a mountain, an- other side moving off toward the distant sea. Instead, one comes suddenly to a ragged rim and looks down into a hole in the mountain to]); a deep, uninviting, yet wonderfully beauti- ful cavity, large enough, someone has said, to bury all of the buildings of new New York City within and still have room enough to dump the buildings of Chicago on top, leaving still more volcanic space as a dum]nng ground for other cast off materials. We have made no verification of the fig- ures above quoted. We do not confirm them. All we do know is that we have stood upon the edge of the "House Built by the Sun" and we have decided that the sun is some artisan, some 156 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS builder of world wonders. There is a legend in Hawaiian history which says that while the sun was building the house in Haleakala he fell in love with a beautiful princess cf the reign- ing house of the Hawaiians and told the prin- cess that whatever she asked she might have. The i)rincess asked that the terrible heat of Maui might be modified so that the people of the island would not in the future suffer so much from it. The sun therefore caused a gen- tle, cooling breeze to mark its perpetual course across the low lands of Maui and thus bring to the people of that land the cooling comfort so mucli needed. p]ver since, the breeze has been there. It was there when we arrived; it was there when iwe left. The natives have faith that it will be there for ever and ever. Up at the top of Haleakala the breeze is never needed, but its always there, too. It is a cold breeze at that elevation; very cold. Just as soon as the sun went down, and darkness came on, and it comes very cpiickly after sun- down there, the cold became rather bitterly penetrating, and the guests at the summit hast- ened to put on sweaters and hunted the breeze- less corners under the protection of the walls of the stone house. By the way, the summit house is a one story, one roomed house, and we found upon counting noses that in all there were forty-two people to eat and sleep in the one room of that one roomed house that night. The guides, who were much like cowboys in their appearance and demeanor, seemed perfectly at ease under such circumstances. They were of several different nationalities but all a happy go lucky lot of chaps and it fell to their lot to do all the cooking, serve the evening dinner, etc. One short little Chinaman was the cook in the interior of the summit house where he WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 157 was prei);iriii,i2;' in what looked like an old lard can, a mixture wliicli he described to curious investigators as a "stew." Outside, on the lee side of tlie buildino- another cook, a Hawai- ian, was preparing the coffee, over an ini])ro- vised grate wluch balanced threateningly at all times on the ragged edge of collapse. It was a good supper though; there was l)lenty of stew and plenty of coffee. No one asked what the stew was made of, and unchew- able fragments of rags, etc., were pleasantly expectorated upon the floor by those who hap- pened to discover them, and the merry music of lapping up the soup went on. The coffee, too, was hot, and heat was the primary thing in demand. The diners dined in installments and then after all had eaten, the most of the party got out on the lee side of the summit house and danced and sang and yelled, "just to ])ass the time away." The crater of Haleakala shows dark by night, very dark, black. The thing terrifies in its utter depths of dark, but off toward the course of our afternoon's journey upward, great banks of silver clouds rolled. They were ])erhaps about three thousand feet below ns, and the full moonlight gave them their silver sheen. There was an ocean of these clouds fill- ing all the valleys aliout us to the north, and even the lights of the towns below were shut off from us. This was a spectacular cloud ex- hibit which had not been billed as a part of the regular program. We sle]3t as best we could that night. I think the extent of disrobing consisted of tak- ing off the shoes, only. I know that was all I took off, and that was enough. I awoke early, too; and I got up just as soon as I could get out from under the various parts of five or six 158 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS other imoiintain climbers who liad spread them- selves sort of indiscriminately around over the lar^e but sufficiently numerous bunks up- on which the guests were supposed to lie. A cowboy was sitting up smoking a cigarette. I asked him the time. It was 3:30. Wrapping a blanket about myself, over all my other clothes, I went out to look for the southern cross. I didn't find it. I am not sure there is such a thing, or, if there is, if it is worth looking for. The clouds had broken, how- ever, and away below us I could see the lights of Kahului, Wailuku and Puu Hele. After a little while, though, a cool, damp cloud settled down over the top of our mountain and I was driven in for a time. Later ^n the morning the clouds drifted away, the sun came up radiant- ly bright, the crater was again an open book and we looked once more u])on its myriad beau- tiful colorings and marveled again over the magnitude of the spectacle. The ascent of the Haleakala is worth while. The biggest extinct crater in the world is a deeply impressive thing to look upon. One who sees it w-ill never forget it; will always remem- ber it with strange emotions, and often, no doubt, try to tell about it. But, it is "untell- able, " just as are so many other things which one may see and may feel in one's heart. Hale- akala marks one of the most stupendous vol- canic upheavals that nature carries any o])en record of. Here one may see the pit from which flowed oceans of lava and from which were thrown up immeasurable quantities of ashes, flames, rocks, etc. The marvel of it all is though that tlie pit is left so perfectly formed, such an unbroken outline of the scene of Halea- kala 's one time activities. Our tri]) down the mountain was uneventful. WITH WORLD'S PRF.SS CONGRESS 159 oxccptiii.n' ill so t;ir as tlie appropriation of inoiintaiu dirt and dust by the travelers con- tributed toward tlie sensational. None of our ])arty having washed, or combed, or changed their ch)thes since we left sea level the day be- fore, it is not strange that the order of the "dirty dozen" witli fnll membersliip and wait- ing list, was organized as we wended our ways to the foot of the hills. Ex-Senator Frank P. Glass of Birmingham, Alabama, was made president of the new or- der; Reginald Ortcnff, of Brooklyn, N. Y., vice president, and J, Zerby, of Pottsville, Pa., sec- retary and treasurer. "J" was honored by being chosen treasurer because he seemed to be the one who excelled in the quantity of dirt accumulated. At a half way |)oint at the foot of the isteep- er part of the mountain we were turned aside up a little road and to the residence of one of the wealthy phuitation owners of the island where we were permitted to "clean up" a bit and then were ushered into the presence of a turkey sandwich luncheon which will not be forgotten much sooner than Haleakala's won- ders. After the luncheon we took our deliberate time in driving back to Kahului where after an hour's wait on the dock we were finally gath- ered up by our sliip's motor boat and taken out to the Matsonia. Soon the other members of our party came drifting in from a tri]) around the ishmd, telling us about the Avonderful things they had seen and the splendid treat- ment which had been accorded them every- where they Avent. We feel though that we had the best of the bargain even if we did come back from the mountain top tired. Some of our party admitted a few days later that the Iri]^ had been 160 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS a severe one on tliem. It had left them, as one man said, "depressed." I am of the opinion tliat the wide spread in altitude, with the at- tending si)read in temperature, all accomplish- ed in so short a time, was a sort of physical shock, like the sudden j^lunge into cold water, excepting that the exhilarating effect of the cold water plunge was not felt after the de- scent from the somewhat frigid temperature of the summit of Haleakala. The evening's entertainment was a swim- ming exhibition in a local pool. Duke Kahan- amoku, world sj^rint champion, Warren and Pua Kealcha, Marie Wehselau and Helen Moses of the American Olympic team were there and of course put on some show. They were as- sisted by some fifteen other of the swiftest swimmers of the islands. Of course the small boy swimmer w^as there, chuck full of what the announcer called "nut" stunts. We left Ka- hului at midnight and arrived at Honolulu by breakfast time the next morning. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 161 LETTER XXIX. The World's Press Congress Honolulu, October 27, 1!)21 The return from Maiii to Ilonolnhi marked the end of the inter-island tours. Henceforth, our stay in the Hawaiian ishmds was to be cen- tered on the island of Oaliu, city of Honohilu. Tlie Workl's Press Congress convened in this city the morning of Oct. 17th for its regu- hir i)rogram, to cover four full days with a fifth day to be given over to the meeting of what is known as the Pan-Pacific Union Press. I shall not enter into an extended report of the meet- ings of this congress. Many addresses and papers as delivered and read were not clearly "understandable" to me, or to a very great number of the other people in atteadance. They will all come out in English in the official re- port of the proceedings, some day, and then, those of us who attended the meetings will be able to find out what was said. While English was the official language of the Congress and while it was presumably used throughout all the meetings, yet it came in such broken form in so many instances that it was not possible to follow the speakers. There were addresses by Spanish, Greek, French, Korean, Chinese, Japanese, Norwegian, etc., etc. Most of the representatives in the Congress were from the United States. Many of those from the states belong to the same class as does this writer. We came, not because we could be of any considerable use to the Con- gress, but because the opportunity for travel, at a minimum cost with maximum advantages 162 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS was offered us, and because we are in hearty sympatliy witli any movement wliicli looks to- ward the hnprovement of international condi- tions and feel that a better understanding' among- the publishers of papers in the differ- ent countries of the world will tend to establish a better feeling generally between the different peoples of the world. Man}' of the papers of the United States represented at the World's Press Congress are not papers of large international imr)ortance. The publishers did not so pretend; but they are in all instances papers of considerable local im- ]^ortance somewhere. It takes only a grouping of local fields to make a national field and a gTOuping of national fields to make an inter- national field. There was not a paper honestly represented from any ])art of the earth at this congress that was not of some heli)ful import- ance in the great convention. The president of the World Press Congress is Walter Williams, head of the School of Jour- nalism, Columbia, Missouri, the first school of Journalism ever established in the world. The World Press Congress is largely the idea of President Williams. It is as yet an idea that has not expanded to the point where it has g-ained the attention of the most important papers in the world, to the extent to be desired. I do not mean by that that the effort is insig- nificant. It is widely significant, but there is much room yet for expansion. There are a great many newspapers in the world that are sort of sufficient unto themselves. They are aristocrats. They are big and prosperous and self reliant, and, in a sense so headless, or with so many different heads, that it takes quite a splash to attract their attention. The bigger papers of tlie United States were WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 163 not .nearly all represented here. Europe was Avell re])resente(] from (Jreat I>i-itain, but from llie iiin inland there was not enough represen- tation, although Greece, Norway and Spain were present in good force. The next Press Congress will perhaps be held in Europe and in that event, continental Europe will no doubt come into very much more active life. But, if the newspapers of the country were not all here, we had good "movie" representation at all times, and that will help some. AVherever we went, there was the Patlie man; a general man who supplies all weeklies; and still another movie man who took everything he could get. And, there were "still" pliotogra]ihers by the score, at times. As I have stated before, the object of the World Press Congress is to establish "World Press Understanding." We all know that "newspaper talk" is sometimes the cause of trouble. We all know that "newspaper gos- sip," like small town gossip, is often uninten- tionally malicious, and frequently the basis for quarrels that ought to have been avoided and are very often the continuing cause of resent- ment between people or nations. President William's ideal is to reduce world news to the lowest possible minimum of unreliability. It is doubtful if he "will get the boys out of the trenches before Christmas," but his ambition is to help get them out and in that movement substantial headway has been made in the meet- ings here. As a presiding officer President Williams is all that might be desired. He is at all times master of the situations developed in the regu- lar course of the ])roceedings. He has a keen sense of humor that helps to carry him through painfully threatening periods of monotony. He 164 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS has nerve .sufficient to "call" tlie self import- ant individnal \vlio lias an uncontrollable de- sire to hear his own voice long and frequently. He did not let things drag; he hurried and he urged others to hurry. He made friends on every hand l)0cause he was friendly; is friend- ly, naturally. He is not impressive in appear- ance, lie wins by sheer force of mental dom- ination. He is not pugnaciously aggressive. He insiiniates himself gently, but effectively into the heart of things and so, there was no drag in the World's Press Congress i;roceedings. James Wright Brown, the secretary-treas- urer of the Congress, is Publisher of the Editor & Pul)lisher, New York City. He was usefully conspicuous in the Honolulu meetings at all times. He is a man of high journalistic ideals; like President Williams, a fine Christian gen- tleman, and the contagion of his personality built friends for him on every hand. Under such officer leadership the World's Press Con- gress should radiate peace, justice, good will, charity in quantities sufficient to rapidly ])er- meate the world which was never before in a more receptive mood for such influences than it is now. If officership will insure the suc- cess of this Congress we have won! One could not fail to be ])leasantly impressed by the splendid feeling shown between the dele- gates from the different countries. Ja])anese, Chinese and Koreans fraternized, apparently, in the most cordial manner. They treated each other with the most considerate courtesy, and each country was well represented. There was a grand old man here from New Zealand, Mark Cohen, by name. He, too, radiated good will and peace on earth at all times. In his ad- dresses he would lose himself frequently in gentle eloquence. Australia with three or four WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 165 JAMES WRIGHT BROWN Secretary-Treasurer elect World's Press Congress Mr. Brown is editor of "The Editor and Publisher," New York City. He is one of the most enthusiastic and able votaries of the "World's Press Congress" idea. AVe'll say he's a fine gentleman! He was always busy. 166 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS representatives, too, assumed a conspicuous l)art, always, in those debates that had to do with anything that presumably sought to bring the people of the world into a closer under- standing of the different problems that face each, individually. All in all, we can sum up the object of the World's Press Congress about as above out- lined. It is simply a get-together organization; starting in a small way, receiving splendid treatment on every hand, and recording "suc- cess" as the verdict passed upon the results at- tained at this meeting, and a success I believe which really goes beyond what might have rea- sonably been hoped for prior to the meeting. The outlook at first was a little discouraging. The attendance from the United States was a little short of expectations; but it was suffic- ient, when augmented l)y the delegations from the orient and from the southern lands, to make a good big convention. Mr, Williams was re-elected president of the Congress with James Wright Brown as Vice President, as above noted. A more compact organization has l)een ])erfected; there is wider and deeper interest in the movement than be- fore and the future of the organization as a means of world usefulness is not at all un})roni- ising. In fact, it is one of those organizations from which the negatives seem to be banished. It must either do good, or be neutral in its ef- fect. There is little possibility of any harm emanating from a movement which has as its object good, only, and which appeals only to the unselfish impulses of those who are inter- ested in it. in caring for the delegates to the congress Honolulu has done herself proud. Numerous round-the-island excursions have been given the WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 10 7 delegates, s])eeial shows Iiunc l)eeii staged, lec- tures on siibjeets of particular Hawaiian inter- est have been delivered, tours of inspection to points of s])ecial interest in and near the city have been made, and all has been free from ex- ] tense to the visitors. One evening there was a special o])en air ex- hibition given by the native Hawaiians in which historical scenes of Hawaiian history were re- produced and Hawaiian singers in solos and in concert entertained in a way peculiar to them- selves. Today was ])ublic school day; tomor- row will he a visit to the jienitentiary and to the leprosarium; next day it is a trip to the navy yard and Friday night the Chinese in the citv are staging a special production: "The Yel- low Jacket" to which the delegates are admit- ted complimentary. Saturday night there are prize fights and Sunday there are special serv- ices in two of the churches and a football game in the afternoon for those who care to go. Mon- day free automobiles will carry us out into the mountains and show us the heauty heights of the country immediately around Honolulu, while earlier in the week we were taken in an automol)ile trip clear around the island and at that the half has hardly been told, for we have been to a pineapple plantation and cannery, out over a sugar cane plantation and through a mill, to say nothing of a special luncheon init on by the Ad Club and a swimming party staged by the "Out-rigger Club." Our readers will readily note that there are certain expenseless advantages that go with a trip of this kind that are not common to one when he tours alone. 168 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 169 LETTER XXX. Seventeen Varieties Honolulu, October 28, 1921 Last evening- avo heard an illustrated lecture on the active volcanoes on the island of Hawaii and it filled us so full of "lava" again that I was tempted to write something more about the great volcanoes of Manna Loa and Kilauea, but this morning we went out to visit the peniten- tiary and later on to the Ivalilii Leprosarium and we saw so much of peculiar interest at these places that this little sketch will be a weak effort to describe something of what we saw and heard today. At the ])enitentiary we were met by the TTigh Sheriff, Wm. Jarrett, who took us all through the institution and explained the sys- tem under which they operate. Their method of operation is not particularly different from that under which many of our state peniten- tiaries are operated, so it is not necessary to touch upon that feature of the work. The prisoners are housed in a fire proof building and the interior showed that it is well kept at all times. Good beds, good clean food and dining rooms and plenty of l)athing facilities, in the most modern fashion, indicates that these pris- oners have all the comforts of home, so far as those essentials go. It was interesting to know that the authori- ties have to provide three different kinds of food for their prisoners. There are ])eople of seventeen different nationalities in this peni- tentiary and it so happens that they are so widelv different in racial customs that what is 170 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS food for one is not food for some of the others. The orientals, who contri))nte a liberal part of the jail population have to have rice, etc.; the Hawaiians have to have poi and fish, while the whites and other nationalities not above taken care of require such food as you and I want. The result is, they set three tables in this pris- on. Maybe, our readers will be interested in knowing- that the Filipino is the most regular attendant in the penitentiarv on these islands. Out of 642 all told in the prison, 209 are Fili- ])inos, almost a third of the total number, while the population of Filipinos on the islands is probably not more than one-tenth of the total population. The Hawaiians, with perhaps about twice the number on the islands have but 133 in prison, while the Japanese and Chinese with still larger po])ulations have a less num- ber of their ])eo])le in prison. The Filii)ino is not much admired here. He has done nothing to win admiration. As a worker he is rated low, as a criminal he is rated high. That is, he is long on "evil doing." I happened to have a chance to talk a few mo- ments with one of the heads of the Boy Scout movement here. He has been here eight years and has put in a great deal of time assisting in the athletic and other helpful work in the prison and he confirmed the common report that the Filipinos are not in general measuring up to the average standard of our modern civiliza- tion. ''The Filipino is unnecessarily brutal," my informant explained. "He will hold up a man, and then kill him, even when there is no neces- sity for murder, but evidently for the sheer de- light that he gets out of the kill." They are remorseless, too, and unconcerned WITH WORLD'S I'UESS CONGRESS 171 nlx.iit ('()iis('(|ii('ii('es. As an exainpk' ol' their bravado this Boy Scout worlver told the story of the execution of two of them for murder some months ago. The niglit before they died they danced jigs to music made by fellow pris- oners and at the execution, my friend, who wit- nessed it, said that just before they ])ulled the black cap down over the head of one of the boys he caught the Scout w^orker's eye and grin- ningly winked at him, "What kind of stuff are they made off" I asked. "Certainly they are not even indirect- ly connected with the Hawaiians, are they?" "They seem to have the brutal instincts of the Turk, and I think that perhaps their close association with Mohammedans — many Fili- ])inos are Mohammedans — may have contribut- ed elements to their character that make for a careless regard for human life and pro])erty," my friend explained, and added, "No, they are not remotely like the Hawaiians, excepting in color." I am inclined to think that many long years under Spanish rule, suffering the l^rutal treat- ment that Spain meted out to her savage and semi-civilized colonial holdings had the effect of innoculating the Filipinos wnth some of the most vicious of the Spanish spirit. Certain it is the Filipino in Hawaii has done little to win the esteem of the people of these islands. He does not recommend himself for self-govern- ment and any recommendation for self-govern- ment, iimnediately, for the Filipino prompts the surmise here that he who recommends such a course does not have the good of the Filipino at heart, and, where the recommendation comes from outside the Philipiune islands and out- side of continental U. S. the inference is that 172 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS he who makes the reeommendatioii has some- thing in view for himself. "Any 'lifers' heref " a gentleman asked one of the guards as we stood looking out at a bunch of ])risoners in the prison yard. "That one right over there, soldier — just came in — here for life," explained the gaiard pointing to a young white man, perhaps twenty to twenty-two years of age. "Killed the auto driver rather than pay the fare charges. Hit him over the head with a wrench. That fel- low's brother," the guard added, pointing to a husky young Hawaiian, who was with us as one of the drivers of the cars we had come out in. The brother's eyes were full of tears. Out in the yard the murderer had caught our cur- ious glances and was enjoying the situation im- mensely, apparently. He and a boy companion had been in the city for the evening and at about two o'clock in the morning had called a taxi to take them out to Scofield barracks. They had no money, but tills young man had tucked a wrench under his coat and when they came to the end of the ride he calmly hit the driver a blow over the head with the heavy wrench and there was no longer any demand for fare. The driver was silenced forever in this life. The soldier boys could go on in to their bunks and slee|j in ])eace. The cliauffeur would trouble them no more. "IIoAv long you here for?" we asked a Chinaman wlio was trying to sell us cuff but- tons which he had made during his odd hours. "Me here long time," Chinaman advised, ''killee wife." We didn't buy any cuff buttons. If "John" is in for a long, long time he doesn't need the money and if he killed his Avife, she doesn't need it, so we iiassed on to where a couple of WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 173 I loiiolulu st('U()i;r;i pliers were Irving' to iii\('iiz,ie ;i .\()uii,i>' Kore.-iu (lelec;'ate into buyiiiii' tlieni i\()i> necklaces "just to romeiiiber nou by." Mr. Koi-eaii didn't Tall tor it llioii.n'ii. Maybe lie di(hrt care to be remembered. At any rate tlie bold manners and tlie artifi(*ially colored cheeks di(bi't seem to im])ress him 1o the extent of loosening liis pni'se strings, noticeably. But, talking- about the Philippine islands, there was a party of congressmen here some months ago, bO in number. They landed at Hilo first, evidently, for while they were driv- ing out to the volcano one of the congressmen got sore at the driver of theii* car because he was unable to tell them how far it was to Man- ila where he wanted to go to spend the night. He had a "friend there." My informant stated that the congressional ignorance con- cerning the Hawaiian islands was something pitiful. The congressman above referred to thought Hawaii was a part of the Philip- pine islands and that when he was on the island he was but a few miles from Man- ila; W'hile in fact he was nearer to Yokohama than he was to Manila and was about 4000 miles of sea away from where he thought he was. From the penitentiary we went to the Kalihi Leprosarium, where an entertainment had heen prepared for us by the patients in the institu- tion. Both the penitentiary and leper hosi^ital are on the outskirts of Honolulu, beautifully located, surrounded by much tropical vegeta- tion, with plenty of nature's other beauties near at hand to contribute to that demand of the human heart. 174 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXXI. The "Leprosarium" Honolulu, October 28, 1921 Before I knew it I had stretched the story about the Honolulu penitentiary out into a whole letter and it was hardly worth' the space given to it, but the subject now, the Kalihi Lep- rosarium, is worth many stories, the only trou- ble is, it is very difficult, impossible in fact, to do it justice. I cannot. In this hospital there are 168 patients who have leprosy. We were met at the gate by Dr. Hasseltine, the physician in charge, and were conducted by him and his lady assistant through the various buildings and over the grounds that constitate the insti- tution. The first feature of the program was a phys- ical culture exhibition by about one hundred of the patients. It was given out doors and was very like any regular athletic exhibition by school children. "Are these lepers?" was the surprised in- quiry of many. "All lepers," admitted the lady who was leading us about at that time. "Serious cases?" "Some of them; others are about ready for parole." After this exhibition we were led to a neat, one-story building which we were told was one of the boys' buildings. We glanced in at the doors as we walked by. There were pretty little white beds, little center tables, chairs, pictures on the walls, flowers, and in addition to those thinii's were numberless other more real evi- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 175 dencos of hoy life, siicli as pictures of iiioxic actresses, ball hats, mitts, etc., etc. "Each hoy takes care of liis own room, keeps it clean, makes the bed, sweei)s and scrubs, etc., etc.," explained onr prond lady i>ni(k', wlio was a fine looking, intelligent Hawaiian woman. Next we came to the girls' (juarters. If there w^as any difference in neatness and clean- liness it w^as in favor of the girls, but all de- partments were in "apple pie" order. On the veranda of this dormitory there were a num- l)er of little girls, smiling, cnrions, willing to speak to everybody with their welcoming "Aloha." We walked down by the row^ of little girls and spoke to them, looking rather closely into their faces to see if we could see anything that suggested disease, and we could, in some in- stances, in others we could not. That is tlie nature of the disease, the doctor explained. It takes the microscope to detect it sometimes, but these all have it in some form, or other, but most of them we hope to cure. We came next to a building npon the ver- anda of which some eight or ten women w^ere standing. Here we w^ere in the presence of real leprosy. One ^voman was sightless, her eyes sticking out as reddish balls, her nose was sunk- en in until there w^as only the outline of a nose on her face, her features were hideousl}^ dis- figured. "This case had progressed several years be- fore we found it," the doctor explained. "She was found recently back in the mountains." And, her daughter was there, too, and her grandmother, all victims of the disease who had been kept hidden from the authorities. The little girl might be saved; the mother helped; the grandmother would have to go to Molokai 176 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS and to tlint colony which cares for the liopeless- ly afflicted. On most of these ])atients leprosj^ had left conspicuous marks; disfigured faces, sightless eves, twisted fingers and deformed feet. Next we came to another dormitory where there were some twenty of the patients, all in gay regalia, carrying flags and flowers and wearing wreatlis over their brows and shoul- ders. Most of them were smiling and a])parent- ly happy and we learned that they were ready and anxious to begin giving the program which they had been practicing a number of days in anticipation of our visit. The guests all went out to a little grand- stand that was used for the purpose of seating visitors on such occasions and the orchestra and choir, composed of j)atients, sang a beauti- ful number. In the meantime those who were to stage the exhibition were marching down from the dormitory and ])lacing themselves in a group that was distinctly artistic and pretty. At the head of the procession was an old lady carrying the Bible and on either hand and behind were others, men, women, boys, girls and three or four little children bearing flowers and many other decorations and carrying flags of many nations with Old Glory in the fore- front. The scene reminded one, in some of its features, of a summer evening festival l)ack in Iowa. Peering deeply enough under the outside though one could see that amidst all that show of floral and beribboned glory there were some human beings who were in distress. Here was a man with no nose, with ])ut one eye, a deeply sunken face, great wrinkles in his forehead, im- perfect feet. The progress of the disease had WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 177 been stayed willi liiiii, hut no troatintmt could give back to him the things tliat were gone be- fore the treatment came. Jlere, too, was a girl who apparently had no fingers; and another woman's face showed great blotches, and wrinkles, and a sunken nose. There were others with minor disfigurations. There was misery here, but hope, too, and a spirit of n.ake the best of it. Suddenly the group of lepers started to sing. It was "I^raise God From Whom All Blessings Flow." The singing was as sweet as any choir music; there were many good voices there, and the s])irit of the song touched deeply, for I learned afterward that many others joined this writer in the operation of brushing away a tear or two as an accompaniment to the music. And after that, they repeated the Lord's prayer, and then an old woman prayed that the world might be freed from the scourge of leprosy and that the sufferers here might be "washed in the blood of the Lamb," and be made clean — "whiter than snow." After the singing and the prayer there step- ped into the foreground a nicely formed, young white woman, some eighteen years of age, I should say, light colored hair, a typical blonde, graceful in her movements, daintily at- tired in white with low necked gown. She made a short, elegantly prepared address of welcome and then just before she retired she announced the next number on the program. This girl was a Caucasian of good birth, a native of Hawaii, and there was nothing about her appearance to indicate that she was a leper or that she was diseased excepting a slight evi- dence of reddish blotches under her eyes and across the u])per part of her cheeks. She look- ed in her face much as does anv white girl who 178 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS has exercised rather "strenuously on a hot day and tlien pantingly" stopped to rest. This girl is responding to treatment nicely, and will probably be cured. Her mother is also in the hospital, a more advanced case, and she asked to be excused from appearing in public. Her daughter though, added a splendid touch of grace and dignity to the exhibition. The first numlDer on the program was a song by a young man, a Hawaiian, a splendid speci- men of physical manhood, with fine, even feat- ures, and I am pleased to say that we w^ere ad- vised by the doctor that he would be paroled as cured at once. He had escaped disfigura- tion. In his song he was accompanied on the guitar l)y anotlier young man, more advanced in the disease, but not showing it, while, a toothless woman, with gnarled fingers and a slightly sunken face and crippled feet, and an- other showing leper marks not so plainly, but unmistakably, joined in the chorus of the young man's song. A grou)i of garlanded girls sang a tribute to the Hawaiian" Princess Kalanianole who with a small ])arty was in the audience. The calling of the islands in song brought to the fore little boys and girls, eight in number, each decorated with a lei and carrying other flowers and some other things to represent each of the inhabited islands of the Hawaiian group. This was a pretty little ])art of the program and gave the smaller boys and girls an opportunity to figure in a pleasantly cons])icuous way in the pro- gram. There followed a pageant cf the whole group of inmates to exjn^ess in that way their appreciation of and their love for the United States Health Service which has done so much to alleviate the suffering of the ]iatients of this institution. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 179 The ]);itioiits sang a song in honor of a i'or- nuT olTicial of the liosi)ital niidci' wliosp dii-ec- lion tlie first siu'cessful use of the present meth- ods of treating leprosy was made. Ihiring tliis song there came upon the scene a Jittle ])roces- sion of eh'ven people, representing eleven dif- ferent nationalities, each carrying luggage and dressed to represent the way they appeared \vhen they came to the hos]utal for treatment. These eleven people made a particularly strik- ing api)earance because of the individual dif- ferences in appearance. There were Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Porto Rican, Chilian, Hawaiian, Negro, Filipino, etc., etc. One was a big, stalwart white young man Avliose nation- ality I did not learn; he looked like a Russian. The Portuguese was a girl of about eighteen years, a very pretty girl, showing no external signs of the disease so far as we could see and she was dressed in street attire, wearing a dainty blue suit, sailor hat, daintily fitting mod- ern shoes and looked very like she was just out for an afternoon stroll in the park. The one part of the program, though, which illustrated the effects of leprosy upon human beings most graphically was that in which Dr. Hasseltine brought forward different lepers and showed to the audience just what this dread disease does when once it gets a hold on peo- ]3le. He i)resented first a man, who was appar- ently sightless; his nose had flattened into his face; there were great furrows across his brow and extending back over his forehead; his feat- ures were frightfully distorted in every partic- ular. He did not look like a human being, and yet, the treatment used at Honolulu is staying the progress of leprosy in this case. The doc- tor showed two or three women whose hands were twisted, faces disfigured, joints refusing ISO A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS to function, eyes affected, bones in nose de- cayed, etc., etc. They were not a pretty spec- tacle. He presented two young Hawaiian women, girls of perhaps twenty years of age. They showed no signs of leprosy externally after a few weeks of treatment. They were apparently as clean and as perfect as any one, hnt in re- sponse to the bacteriological test they still showed that they have the disease. Otherwise they are jnst as whole as anyone else, the doc- tor explained. There came forward a little girl of abont eight years. "This," stated the doc- tor, "is onr prize case. After a few treatments she refnsed to show any fnrther ^igns of le])- rosy at all. All tests failed. We conld hardly believe it, bnt it's trne. She will be paroled soon, now." Several other cases in varions stages of development were shown. Next there was a sort of a tablean pre- sented, in which a nnrse advanced to Dr. Has- seltine carrying a tray npon which were a nnm- ber of vials. From this tray the doctor lifted in turn and held n]) before the andience the lit- tle vials that contained the chanlmoogra oil in the different forms throngh which it ]iasses in its laboratorical develo])ments into the specific form in which it is now nsed in treating lep- rosy. In a former letter I think I ex])lained that this specific as now nsed has lately been brought to its present state of useful effective- ness through the experiments of Dr. A. L. Dean, President of the Hawaiian I'niversity. The oil in its newly developed form is injected into the muscles of the patient and its curative ef- fects are marvelous. Leprosy has for a long time baffled ex]:)erimenters in many of their ef- forts to understand it. Thev think thev have WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS ISl isolated ilic bacteria, l»iit llicre is no way of knowing- positively, as this wiiter understands it, since the human being is the onl}^ animal that responds to the infection. Tliey iiave discov- ered no other aninud upou which to exi)eriment and, tlierefore, such experiments as are' made must he nuule \\\)(m human beings who offer themselves voluntarily for that purpose. In the (Kalihi institution Mrs. Rosalie Blaisdell, a patient of Hawaiian nationality has offered her- self as the medium for further experimentation looking toward still greater developments in tlie treatment of leprosy. The lepers at this hospital have named their retreat "Mount Happy." A rather odd name for such a place, but it is an amazingly pretty ])lace with a most delightful atmosphere about it, everything considered. In this institution there are few hopeless cases. The result is, of <'ourse, that all are looking forward to some- thing better. There is a rainbow in the sky always for most of them. It costs $250,000.00 a year to maintain Mount Happy. It enter- tains peo})le of all nationalities as the above in- dicates. Time was when it Avas a difficult thing to find lepers and to get them into the hosjiital. Now they come willingly. It is rare- ly necessary to send officers for them now. They know and understand that the institution will help them; will probably save their lives. The incubation period of leprosy is long, though. It may be in the system of a ])erson for eight or ten years before showing itself. So, the leper problem is by no means solved 3^et. For years yet there will be new crops of lepers coming on. People have it now, all unaware of the fact. Some day it will develop. Then, if the case is promptly and properly diagnosed, the victim can be taken at once to a Leiirosar- 182 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ium and treated witli a splendid chance to be cnred. The doctors, though, don't like to say yet that they cure leprosy. They discharge their patients on a i)arole, with the statement that the disease has been "arrested." In 1921 nine- ty-four |)atients have been discharged from this hosi)ital and only four recalled from all pre- viously discharged. In 1919 only a few w^ere recalled for further treatment. Many are ap- parently cured, showing no signs of the dis- ease after several years of release. In 1920 none were recalled. The disease is infectious, but not violently so. The doctors and nurses handle the patients without fear, although the infection is probably from personal contact. Cleanliness is a safeguard and an essential one. An interesting thing about the treatment used now to cure the lei)ers! is that the good ef- fects of the oil have long been known, and it ha? been used for several years, but the oil in its original form is too strong for general prac- tical use. The reaction from its use was so se- vere that in many cases the reaction itself was worse than the disease treated. It then became the studv of investigators to see if the dross of the oil could be eliminated from it and the healing qualities retained. That has been ac- comi^lished. What medical science has done in the hand- ling of leprosy is one of the greatest of modern benefactions. For many centuries leprosy has been the most dreaded plague in many parts of the world. It was looked upon as absolutely fatal. The leper was an unclean thing, doomed to death and destruction. There was no hope. Not so now. The treatment of the disease has been perfected to the ]ioint where a leper in the earlier stages of the disease has a better WITH VVOULUS I'llESS CONURESS IS 3 cliaiu'c I'oi' lii'c than do tliosc^ arnicted witli sev- eral other liiuiiaii contagions, the mastery of which has not yet been accomplished. Those of ns wlio visited this Leprosarium feel that we have had a rare opportunity to witness one of the most advanced pieces of medical accomplishment that the world has ever witnessed, but we witnessed more than that. We see again, in another form, another illustration of what our country has done for the helpless in the world. Leprosy has always been a devastating disease among the Hawai- ians. "My people suffer most from it," our lady friend at the hospital informed us. Here in this institution Hawaiians, Chinese, Japan-. ese, Filipinos and all the afflicted of whatever color or race are cared for at the expense of the state. No one is allowed to suffer because of poverty. Here the people of all nationalities find a friend indeed. Uncle Sam takes them in his arms and cares for them. Lepers in this institution enjoy such comforts as they had never in the moments of their most extravagant ])rimitive imaginations dreamed of having. I doubt if they have perceptions keen enough to appreciate in full what they receive. We can only hope that all these beneficient efforts will not be in vain. 184 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXXII. Our Hawaiian Army Honolulu, October 28, 1921 "Military Day" and "Naval Day" were great days for the World's Press Congress del- egates. Special programs liad been prepared at Camp Seofield and at Pearl Harbor. They were wonderful programs, too. To novices in the art of war the exhibitions were marvelous. There were in our i)arty those to whom the scenes of the demonstration were not so new, for they had been in real war; had seen service on the European battle fronts. Most of the party though were unaccustomed to military doings on as large a scale as we were privileged to witness while in Hawaii. Camp Seofield covers several thousand acres. It is a permanent camp, and there are about ten thousand soldiers stationed there now. All modern war equipment is in store there and the army is supported by fortifications and naval forces Avhich make the people of Hawaii feel that they are well taken care of. The for- tifications of Diamond head, covering the ap- proach to Honolulu harbor and the opposite side of the island also are said to l)e second to Gibraltar in their cai)acity for trouble making for any contem])lated invader. We went out to Seofield barracks Saturday, October 22nd. Automobiles called for us at our hotels and we were taken directly to the bar- racks, some six miles out of the city. As each car entered the cam]) domains an officer step- ped on the rnnning board and directed the line of travel, and stayed with the car and its oc- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 185 cni)aiits until tlic final official ceremonies of the day were over. 'I'liei-e ai'e luindrecLs of lar^'e and small permanent l)uildini;s here to house the men and officers and in addition to that many large structures essential to the re(iuire- ments of such a great camp. One of the first things we saw^ as we ap- proached the camp from around the hills was the great observation balloon hanging over the camp, and later towed al)0ut by a big army truck, while the balloon maintained its altitude of some fifteen hundred feet above our heads. We had hardly anticipated such a pretentious show as we Avere to' see. After being driven all over the spacious camp grounds we were taken to a little grandstand where seats had been reserved for our party and such an exten- sive military program was given as w^e w^ould never see again outside of w^ar, we were told by our guide, a young lieutenant. The guests of honor, occupying the review- ing stand w^ere: the Governor of the Territory, Wallace R. Farrington; the Commander Gen- eral of the Department Major General Charles P. Summerall; The Commandant 14th Naval District, Rear Admiral Edw^nrd Sim])son, United States Navy; President Walter Williams of the World Press Congress. Even if it is a little long I am going to publish the full list of program events in order that our readers may have some idea of the variety of war activities which are cultivated in this great camp. Brigadier General Joseph E. Kulin, U. S. A., was in command and the first feature of the program was the salute to his honor, the Governor, after which came the review of the Hawaiian Division and attached units of the Hawaiian C. A. District and the Air Service. 186 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS The Divisions and attached nuits passed in re- view in the following order: Commanding General. Division Headqnarters. 21st Brigade: 27th Infty., 35tli Infty., 44th Inftv., 3rd Engineers; 11th Signal Corps. ilth Fiekf Artillerv Brigade: 13th Field Artillery, 8th Field Artillery, 11th Field Artil- lery, Ilth Ammnnition Train. Division Trains: Ilth Ordinance Company, 1st Batterv Hawaiian Anti-Aircraft Regiment, 12th Search Lights, 1st Battery 55th Artillery G. P. F., 3rd Balloon Companv, 59th Ambnlance Co. Mnsic by massed bands 250 pieces, com- posed of the 27th, 35th and 44th Infantrv and the Ilth and 13th Artillery and the 3rd Engin- eers. Onr readers will gather from the reading of the above that to most of the members of this jjress party this review parade was a stupen- dous show. Ten thousand soldiers were in- volved and before us passed soldiers and sol- diers and soldiers in such enormous quantities as made us all look on in amazement, and yet as our friendly lieutenant explained this was but a baby show to what the full manned army puts on when war is the order of the day. Over us airplanes buzzed and from the cap- tive balloon two soldier boys jumped and gracefully sank to the ground, a half mile away from us, the violent wind dragging one of the boys over the ground rather brutally before he could disentangle himself from his parachute. The bloody marks of his bruises showed rather plainly a few moments later when he and his companion were brought up and presented to the reviewing party. Next came the special features of the pro- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 187 gram dcmoiistratiiig the activities of the differ- ent d(^i)arti]ieiits of the service here ]-e])resented. First was air service illustrating aerial cond)at, l)oiid)ing raid, radio coninmnications, attack i-aid, followed by the passing in view of the 5tli Grou]) air service. As a i)art of this show, too, two fast planes engaged in mock l)attle, wire- less operators commnnicated from i)lane com- manding officers headquarters, photograi)her took i)ictures of the grounds and party from air- l)lane and distributed proofs in less than an hour, airplanes raided position and destroyed ground targets, and finally a fleet of planes passed in review before the stand, first in V sha]ied formation and later in single file and flying low to salute. Next came the infantry in demonstration of disciplinary drills, physical training with band music, massed boxing, recreational games. This was all very interesting, the exhibition reveal- ing without further elaboration the reasons why soldier boys are in such fine physical trim while on active duty. They exercise, and they exer- cise for fair. Following came the Infantry Combat; an in- fantry battalion demonstrating automatic rifles, machine guns, 37 milimeter guns in attack sup- ported by light and heavy artillery. Here was noise a plenty with the distant targets suffer- ing terribly from the gun fire directed their way and hitting with a painful regularity. Next came Lighter Than Air Service, dem- onstrating the manii)ulation and operation of balloons and balloon observation for artillery practice. And to wind it all up they blew the whole top off with demonstration of Anti-Aircraft firing. Light and Heavy Artillery firing, and a light and heavy artillery barrage. Some juni])- 188 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ed from their seats in the grand stand and rnshed for the rear, so piercino- did the noise become at times. Many of us had heeded the advice of an officer who told ns to keep our mouths open so the sound could hit both sides of the eai' drum and maybe that helped a little. Anyway, it was a big show, and yet so small compared to what so many of our boys in the U. S. A. saw and experienced at a time when it all meant something sterner than did this ex- hibition! We turned away from these scenes with a better understanding of the science of war, realizing that the great expense that at- tends the maintenance of armies is an unavoid- able expense, and few of us, after spending a few weeks in the Hawaiian islands, only ten per cent American, are ready to assert that we do not need quite a ready army and navy yet a wliile in the middle Pacific. The practice with the big guns was noisily spectacular. They were across the field from us so far that the puff of smoke when the gun was fired showed some few seconds, it seemed, before we heard the report, and then, away over in the mountains, after such a "long while," we would see the dirt fly, a great cloud of smoke arise, and then after waiting another "real long while" we would hear the dull rumble of the echoing explosion. The anti-aircraft guns were stationed near us and when they broke loose to repel the oncoming enemy planes our ears split wide open. The scene of the review, too, was especially impressive. Company after company passed by in such splendid marching form and behind came the field artillery, the guns and other munitions drawn by bright, clean caterpillar trucks moving in such amazing uniformity of action as was surprising to all. They were al- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 189 most liiimaii in tlicir i)i'ocisi()ii of mai-cliiiig de- ])ortTiieiit. It was a woiulerriil show, fully appreciated by the press party and tlie graudeiir of tlie im- pressive scenes of tlie day will never be for- gotten by those who saw them. The soldier ]3oys, too, seemed to enjoy it. All entered into the spirit of the day with a thrilling- enthus- iasm. Nothing was left undone to give to the visitors of the day as big a peace time thrill as can be evolved from a great army camp. We got it. 190 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXXIII. A Beautiful Temple Honolulu, October 28, 1921 The big military exhibition closed at Sco- field Barracks at about noon and our party then started on a drive around the island. The whole island cannot be encircled hj automo])ile but something over a hundred miles can be made while the entire distance around the is- land by automobile road would probably be about one hundred forty miles. The southeast ])oint of the island is too rough for circumnavi- gation by motor vehicle. Leaving the barracks our road led out thru pineapple fields, some of the finest and most extensive of the islands being in that vicinity. There are in all in cultivation 07i the islands about 50,000 acres in pineapples. There are 15 canneries, 8 on the island of Oahu. The pine- apple matures on the plant in about 18 to 20 months. The usual process of planting is by using the little knob at the top of the ripened frnit or by ])lanting one of the many suckers that grow at the side of the i)lant. The pine- a]}i)le seeds like many other seeds always run wild when planted. Each seed produces its own variety while the plants remain true to IJarental form. The ripe fruit is delicious beyond descri]> tion. It fairly "melts in your mouth" as sis- ter says. That simph^ means that we do not get fruit that is fully ripened at harvest time in the states. It will not ship in that condition; has to be plucked green and shipped that way. Tlie pineap])le stalks, or ])lants, grow three to WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 191 four f('(4 lii.u'li. They are squatty. 'I'lie loaves are spears, (laj;\i>ei--like, lon,i>-, narrow, i^reen, sliarp-ed^-ed ))la(les. Tlie fruit i^rows in the center of the ])lant and a pineai)i)le crop is an interesting- apjjearing crop. Lower down in the trip along tlie island we w^ent throngli an immense cane field and then finally wonnd np at the little town of Waialua on the northwest corner of the island where there was a beautiful beach and a hotel, and there we had our mid-day meal. From Waialua after our luncli we started up the windward side of the island along a beach so i)retty that there is no use trying to say much about it. In general this side of the island is a scenic side. There are a few culti- vated spots and some points connected with the other side of the island that make interchange of activities possible. There were some pine- apple ranches stretching up along the mountain sides and a little cane, but very little com])ared to what there is in the other side. It must be remembered that the backbone of all these is- lands is a range of volcanic mountains that ex- tend through all of them from northwest to southeast and the left hand side as we go south- east is the windward side. Against the face of the mountains leaning to the windward side the rains and the winds have beaten for centuries, leaving the w.dls precipitous and full of deep gullies over which hundreds of little streams make beautiful waterfalls in the rainy season. This, too, is the rainy side of the mountains. It is a peculiar tiling, but it is claimed that on the island of Kauai, just north of Oahu there are two points barely two miles apart at one of which there is the greatest rainfall known in any part of the world, while at the other the rainfall is as small as at anv other recorded 19 2 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS point in the world. The reason is simple enough. The warm winds coming in from the sea, sweep up along the sides of the mountains striking the cooler atmosphere and immediately there is dampness. It is a dampness that goes no farther, though. It doesn't get over the mount- ain to tliat dry point two miles away, and the result is that they capture the water on the wet side of the mountain where there is little tillahle soil and carry it by tunnel through to the other side of the mountains where there is no rain but lots of soil that needs only the water L~- '*' 'f'-. -^ ■"* :*.^"^Xfy ^^m Sy^i Some shady nook, with a bunch of "Banyan tree" sup- plying the shade. Each tree is a grove all in itself. ai)plied in iri-igation to make it wonderfully fruitful. But, if our scenic side of the mountain isn't so very fruitful in the matter of vegetable growths it is certainly abundantly supplied with beautiful scenery. For some forty miles our road ran along with the tall mountains at the right, and a beautiful beach at the left, the ocean sweeping in over the lava points and the coral reefs in the most beautiful surfs imagin- able. All along the coast we would see points where the spi'ay leaped high, and the ocean WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 193 san.^" lU'vci' ('(';isin<;'ly. Aiiollici- of lliosc drcnm pictiii'es ill w liicli I;iii,n'n<-i,i;(' prochiiiiis its use- lessiioss. Such lial)ilatioiLs as we saw on tliis side of tlic island were very crude in eonstruetion, gen- erally excepting that at a few points there was a wider spread of low land with considerable tillable soil and better ini])i-()venients. At one or two i)oints, too, the nionntain range backed over so far toward the other side of tlie island as to permit of rather extensive settlements on the windward side. The good road was one of the finest artificial things that we came in con- tact with in many miles. We finally came to a little town by the name of Leai. It Avas not nnnsnal in ai)pearance. The l)nildings were sqnatty and the ^airroundings rather commonplace in all their features. The leader of our automobile caravan turned up one of the streets of the little village and we fol- lowed. We rolled along through narrow streets by the side of little homes, observing that there was rather more activity here than we had seen since we left Waialua. Suddenly we turned another corner and came face to face with one of the greatest surprises of our whole exper- ience in the Hawaiian islands. Before us on a little hill with its back to the mountains and its face out toward the Pa- cific was a cream white, gold trimmed, frieze decorated temple. It was approached by two broad stone walks, with frequent sets of five or six steps, the space between the walks being occupied with pools of beautiful water with fountains ])laying in them and all about the tem])le stretched a beautifully green lawn ui)on which were many large, decorative tropical plants, while at the rear of the temple and on either side, perhaps some one hundred and fifty 194 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS feet back were two artisically constructed fern houses connected by a stone walk borderino- on the termination of the mountain edge of the lawn. This whole scene burst upon us like a light out of darkness. Here men had taken advant- age of the beautiful surroundings of nature and had gone the limit in an effort to attain to an artistic effect that would breath out something suggestive of the divine to all who looked upon it. It was and is a Mormon temple, built at a cost of $250,000; a near replica of the Salt Lake temi)le, only in smaller form. It stands as some- tliing startlingly, strangely, weirdly beautiful. One feels as if it might really be the *' House of the Living God." The frieze work facing from the top of the four sides of the temple are re- productions of famous pictures of biblical scenes. The cornice stones at the corners of the upper parts of the building are tipi)ed in gilt. The architectural style of the building ])roclaims its purpose without further explana- tion. The designers attained to their end m building it. Tlie observer knows at once that the buihling was designed to be a sacred place. There were men of the faith there to receive us and to show us about and to explain every- thing to us. Profane feet must not enter the temple so all we saw was on the f»utside. We asked many questions, many significant, others not so much so. ' ' Does your church still believe in and prac- tice polygamy?" was the most interesting ques- tion ])ropounded to our Mormon friend. "Our church does not practice polygamy," the Mormon rei)lied. "Polygamy is against the laws of this country and it is not practiced, or countenanced by our church. As a church we do not denounce the principle of polygamy. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 195 1^ ■=^^2 5 cc t» fe 3 (DO) •_ •^ :3 ^ ^ ,C J- 03 CO ti s 2 o 03 O 03 m s^ =* ° 5 =* Q ^ U2 ^ — 03 o ^ o ?: o o3 offi o c o .2 o a s >> a> ^ ^ O o3 a CO c o O CO Q> HS o o3 ;^ 196 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS I am myself the son of a father who had eiftht wives and fifty-seven chihlren. Polygamy was practiced by onr people in accordance with a revelation authorizing- it. Revelations we be- lieve are just as necessary now as they ever were and God makes his revelations to us. It is one of the established principles of our faith to subject ourselves to the laws of the coun- try in which we live. God authorizes that and we obey. We render unto Caesar the things that are Caesar's." ' ' Who can enter the temple ? ' ' "Only those who are known to be fit. They must be tried in the faith, true to our doctrines, clean. In one part of the temple we permit our young people to enter to be married. There they are sealed for eternity. The ordinance is sacred." "You don't have divorces then?" "Yes, we have special provisions for that, in case husband and wife find they have made a mistake." I didn't quite get him there. Sealed for eternitv, unsealed for eternity. The process seems bewildering, but what of it. The face of our Mormon friend had settled into an expres- sion that brooked no equivocation. You and I have both seen them often and will see them again. ' That face that looks upon you proclaiming that "I am set in the eternal faith. My understanding is final. What I know, I know.' There is 'no power under heaven given among men' that can change me. I am right, eternallv right, all else is wrong, eternally Avrong. ' ' We ])urchased a picture card or two and then climbed into our automobiles meekly and wended our way u]i along the coast talking Mormonism, plural wi\es, big families, tariff, WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 197 ])irioap])los, otc, etc., iiiilil all, of a sndrloTi we came to another world wonder. Well, tliey said it was anyway. They say it is one of the ])ig'- gest wireless stations in the world. Marconi himself eanie over and snyjervised its eonstrnc- tion. It had great tall steel poles and wires enongh for forty sneh stations as I had seen before. It covers acres and acres of ground. It stands on an island ])oint far out in the ocean, in radio line witli all tlie world. Dming the Avar it grabbed stuff from Germany, I was in- formed, etc., etc. I must not get away without saying a little more about the IMormons and their Haw^aiian people, though. A local man w^as my authority and he stated that the membershi]) of the Mor- mon church in Hawaii is made uj) princi]jally of Hawaiians and that they are the best be- ha^"ed, the most prosperous, the most indus triaily useful Hawaiians on the islands. He thinks that it is the show of the thing that attracts them and that some features of the Mormon faith are like their old religion. Then, too, there is always something to strive for. Tliey must be real good so that some day they will be permitted to get into that "Holy of Holies" and look around. The Mormon teachings insist upon clean, regular personal habits, no drinking, no chewing, no swearing, no other forms of unseemingly conduct. No wonder they are thrifty. They seem to have helped the HaAvaiians. 198 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXXIV. A Visit to Pearl Harbor Honolulu, October 30. 1921 There is a wonderful naval base here, far back in narrowly approached but fine deep lit- tle bays on the Oahu coast. Our program said: Pearl Harbor is a deep inlet, extending some six miles inland, through a long, narrow, winding channel of river-like proportions. It is divided into three arms or locks, and has some 30 miles of deep water front and depth enough to float any vessel of the Navy. The United States government has deepened and straightened the entrance channel, con- structed fuel oil and coaling stations, a first- class concrete di-ydock, construction and repair shops, flying field, hangars for both army and navy, submarine base, naval and marine bar- racks, and generally has made a naval station of the first class, which is being constantly added to and improved. Pearl Harbor is de- fended by a series of Coast Artillery forts. Plans for extension have been formulated. We visited Pearl harbor October 29th. Si)e- cial street cars took us from our hotels to the naval dock on Allan street at 9 o'clock in the mornino' and there we boarded mine swee])ers that were to transport us to the naval base. The trip out however was not to be featureless. In fact, that was a larg'e part of the show. Our transports were under escort, one destroyer, tw eagle boats and a seaplane being our ])rotec- tive companions as we steamed out from the dock at Honolulu. We were well protected, for understand, there was danger of an attack from submar- ines, and Axlmiral Simpson himself in com- mand, was determined t]iat we should be guard- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS VJ\) vd Oil evciy luiiid and I'lotii above. Our traiis- ])orts, miiio sweepers that had seen active war service in the Atlantic, were (jiiite different in size and accoiinnodations from the 'hift- slii]) that we had sailed into Ilonohilu on. We ,i>()t a real taste of sea ,G,oin<;' on a wai' boat diii'ino- this tri[). The boats reacted to the swell of the sea read- ily and tlie result was considerable internal dis- tress on the i)art of some of our party, but the ride was not a prolonged one, so there was not so much trouble of that kind as we would have had had the excursion canned us far out upon the more distant waves of the Pacific. There was one interruption to the morn- ing's program that was indeed interesting. We had just got nicely under headway, driving out into the sea, with our escorts all strung out in regular formation covering perhaps two and a half miles, when a decrepit old boat s])itting out huge columns of smoke and })lougliing awk- wardly and deliberately through the waves, came in on our left, threatening to disru])t our formation, and mar the even tenor of our ap- pointed way. The Captain of our boat used language which we will not rejiroduce here. We all sym- pathized w^ith him in his vocalizations, but that didn't help any. On came that dirty, measly old trani]^ steamer, headed for the orient, standing on her rights evidently, and she wasn't going to vary her plan of lu-ocedure for any other boat on the high seas. The water was as much hers as ours. We assumed at once that she was an oriental vessel whose captain and crew didn't give a tinkers "durn" for any thing or anybody. It looked as if our whole ])lan of procedure was to be interru])ted. Of course, we assumed that it was a Japanese freighter, and it was. 200 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS What did tliey care for iis ? We were all just ready to join the anti-Jap movement for all time to come; to enroll ourselves with the ir- reconcilables of our Pacific coast in a persistent and uncompromising crusade against the Jap wherever he might be. "Down with the Jap," we were ready to shout. "To Hades with the mikado." Yes, we were beginning to more fully appreciate the real danger to the civilized world of the "yellow peril" when something happened. The ragged old tramp steamer fal- tered a trifle in her course; she hesitated a moment or two, and then like a hog rooting in the garden she nosed her way around until she was headed due south and lumbered off through the great waves, giving us a semi-circle lee- way more than abundant for the perfection of all our ])rogram maneuvers. And, when all was said and done, we learned that the boat which has threatened our plans for the day, was, as above noted, a Japanese freighter; a slow going, deliberately inclined vessel that sort of drifted hither and thither as the exigencies of commerce encouraged her so to do. On this particular morning of our great "naval show" the Jai)anese freighter started westward for Yokahama, all unaware of the fact that the World's Press Congress party was being transported with elaborate escort out to Pearl harbor. The captain of the Japanese boat soon ob- served, however, that there was something un- usual doing in the waters and by wireless and signalling he was informed as to the character of the morning's exhibition and just as soon as he got that information he ordered his vessel to vary its course far enough to give us abund- ant room for the perfection of the scheduled program and on he went with his old tub lum- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 201 hi'fin,!!,' 1 lif()iii;li the nii^lity waves. And what about us who were just upon tlie verge of be- ing couvei-ted to an uu compromising' attitude toward the Jai)anese? We revised our con- clusions, at least to the extent of admitting tliat this ohl dap (^a]). was a luiglity decent soi't of a fedow. Later, when 1 went beh)w in our boat, I dis- covered that one of the under officers on this U. S. A. mine sweeper was a Jai)anese boy. Was I horrified"? Well, I was surprised. A Jap boy actually a ])art of our naval force! What might he not do against us? I voiced my misgivings to one of oui" own ]ieople, an officer on this same boat, and he didn't seem to l)e much con- cerned about it; simi)ly called my attention to the fact that the particular Jaj) officer whom I had seen and many other Jap bo^s had serv- ed all through tlie World war side by side with regular "United States" l)oys on U. S. boats and all liad served efficiently and patriotically. He admitted that he wasn't "scart a bit." The discussion of the Japanese <|uestion was interrupted by the thrilling announcement that we were being attacked by submarines. Of course that threw us all into a ])anic of excite- ment. Periscopes were in sight all over the waters, on every hand. Most of them ])roved to be imaginary periscopes, though. Finally, we did see a real one, then another, then an- other. There were four subs right on our trail. And one of them fired a torpedo. We saw it leave the submarine and trace its rippling course out across the sea. Farther and farther it went, the line of its passage being clearly seen by the naked eye. Far, far out we saw it make a sudden lunge or two and then it floated on the surface of the sea and two launches wliicli liad l)een ]:»ursuing it, later drag- 202 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ged it into dock where it was lifted back to its home on the submarine which had fired if. Fortunately no torpedoes hit us. We es- caped the attack without injury. Perhaps that was a part of the program. Anyway, the one torpedo which we saw fired was directed away from us. The subs submerged for our benefit, came to the surface, dropped down again and finally drifted away. In our lead a destroyer that had been quietly moving along making no especial display of herself suddenly began spit- ting out the hugest quantities of smoke we had ever seen coming from such a segregated center and we intuitively realized that said destroyer was putting on a smoke screen in order to dem- onstrate to us the manner in which transports are shielded from periscopic observation when there is real submarine danger. Above us we heard the hornet like buzz of sea planes and then there came great explos- ions. Hastening to the opposite side of the boat we discovered that two sea planes were bombing a traget set in the sea. The bombs drop]:»ed from the plane, a half mile high, struck the water with great exi)losions that ex- ])ressed themselves in the form of huge geysers in which the water seemed to spray up to a height of a couple of hundred feet. Next, the sea planes appeared again, after a short withdrawal for change of proi^erties, one plane towing a target which was attacked with great destructive ability by the other plane manned by a pilot and a sliar]) shooter. Before this exhibition was over the target was a sad- ly mutilated ol)ject. After we were landed at the naval station we were taken to the great dry dock, sufficient in capacity to accommodate the largest of our war shipsj and the dock was partially flooded WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 203 in order that we iiii,<>lit see that process. We nia(h' a tonr of the radio station, visiled tiie submarine stations and inspected the submar- ines at short range. One of tliem dipped nn- 'e to me to meet in Honolulu a former resident of my own county in Iowa, Mr. ('. K. Pringle. No one could have been more liberal Avitli his time and g-asoline than he has been in helping me to see all that could be seen in the brief time that the World's press delegation are spending in Honolulu. He it was who i)iloted us on our trip around the island and he it was wdio took me one day to visit his pineapple i^lantation on the top of a mountain in whose ascent we encountered more natural obstacles than one would encounter in fifty times the same distance in placid Iowa. The road led up the side of a mountain over rocks and tree stumps and ragged mountain points for some two or three miles and to a lieight of several hundred feet above the city of Honolulu. It twisted here and there at many points to make the grade and ever and anon we were coming to s]iots where dynamite had been used to blaze the way. Some way it was! My host had ex])lored all this afoot and had founcl on the top and side of this mountain a beshrubl)ed tract of some one hundred forty acres which, underneath its ragged, uncouth surface promised something if it were cleared off and planted in pineapples. Now, there is a good pineap])le crop on the way on the top of this hill. This little ])ineapple plantation is one of the first cultivated points that comes in view as the boats round Diamond head, com- ing into Honolulu harbor. For several miles 208 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS one can discern the tract on the top of a ragged monntain, and it stands ont in nnfailing testi- mony tliat enterprising hnman liands are busy even on the mountain tops of the Jiawaiian is- hmds. I went with my friend one day, too, to his little home in one of the most beautiful of the many beautiful valleys adjoining Honolulu. He has a valuable five acre tract upon which he has his fine little cottage home with orange trees, banana plants, papaia and other tropical vegetation in his back yard, and some pretty floral foliage in the front. Yes, back in one corner of his tract, too, he has a real for sure chicken pen with some big white hens rusticat- ing through the deep foliage. There was some- thing familiar looking about those hens. They looked upon me with unconcealed interest, too. Had w^e met before? Maybe we had never met before in person, but in spirit we were the same. All of us were from Iowa. These hens and one stalwart roost- er of the same type had made the same trip I have so recently made. They had shipped from Washington county, Iowa, and are now residents of Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaiian islands. They do not seem to have learned the Hawaiian language yet, since they cackled in the same old familiar tones that I learned to understand in Iowa, and in manners they seem to have chang- ed little for my friend had a row with one of them in my presence, the controversy being ov- er whether the hen should be allowed to "set" or not. While the "man" seemed to master the situation while we were all together, yet I have no doubt that immediately we were gone the hen "squatted" again on tlu^ di'ied lemon which seemed to be the center of her attentions when we first came on the scene. We tried to WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 209 make a joke out of "lemonade" and "lemon- laid," etc., but we didn't <'et very iar with it. Til is home is liio'll up in a little valley. Go just a little farther u]), as we did, and one eomes to the jum})iug off ])laee; to the place where the valley becomes too narrow and the liills too steep for further vehicle navig'ation. On either side are great high, green mountains. The scenery is beautiful. I spent one delightful night in this valley home, out of sight and sound of the ocean and so far around the cor- ner from Honolulu that its existence was not in evidence, although a short drive down a good road was all that was required to again bring us into stirring city activity. ( )ne other day we drove from Honolulu across the island to the sea on the opposite side of the island. There were coral reefs over there, and glass bottomed boats from which to view the deep sea scenery. Of course we enjoyed it all. It was all amazingly beautiful. In the drive from PInnolulu at sea level to the sea level at the opi)osite side of the island we went but about twelve miles in distance, but we reached an altitude of 1200 feet at the Pali, the mount- ain pass. The Pali is the point where Kamehameha first won the final victory that made him ruler of the consolidated islands. Here there is a sheer precipice dropping to the windward side of the island several hundred feet. Up this point the king forced the enemy army and then rolled them over that precipice. The pass has l)een perfected now by the building of a road around the Pali. The path has been blasted out and cement Availed at the outside. Through this little crack in the mountain range the pas- sage is effected. So strong is the wind current through this gorge, opening out toward the 210 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ocean on both sides that a steel wire is attached by heavy iron bolts to the walls of the mount- ain in order tliat pedestrians may cling to it as they pass around the point and not be flung- by the sometimes terrific wind over the precipitous wall. On tlie windward side of tlie decline, the more precij^itous side, the road is protected on the outside by a heavy cement wall built about three feet high and two feet thick. This wall extends a distance of about three and one-half miles and the eliml) in that distance is about nine hundred feet. I owe much to my friend too for informa- tion about Hawaii and Hawaiian history. He has spent thirty-one years on the islands and he knows them and knows their history. The political history of the islands has been very interesting ever since their value to the world became apparent. We early recognized their strategical value to us; so did Japan. The English flag flew over them for awhile as did the Russian flag. There were insurrections and insurrections, but they were never very formid- able in character, because of the fact that the larger powers would not permit it. War ves- sels and marines were always on hands and supervised the situation very closely. Queen Liliuokalani early in her brief career as queen clashed with the interests in Hawaii. The king preceding her had discov- ered that the king wasn't very much of a king- any more and he had sought to gain l)ack some of the lost power. The queen, too, set about to do the same thing, to proclaim a new constitu- tion and to reorganize. Too late! The island had, we might say, fallen into other hands. Civ- ilization, as we call it, was introducing- democ- racv into the islands. There are those Avho WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 211 claiiii tlint ilic new (Iciiiocrncx' was rcall\' an autocracy foiiiulcMl u\)()\\ the wish to exploit the resoTivees of the ishiiuls. Be tliat as it may, the fact develoiis tliat (^)ueen Jjil was dethroned, the islands were made a repiiljlic and hnter on, as we all know, became a part of the United States. It is f-aid that there are still living in Ilonolnhi men, very prominent in the financial affairs of the islands n])on whose lieads ())neen Lii had set a price and whose physical annihil- ation would have given her great joy. Some NATIVE HAWAIIAN BOYS Dressed up, all ready to go to Sunday School. The picture was taken late in the fall and the youngsters had their heavy clothes on. They are splendid singers. in the islands still say she w^as right; that she and her people were greatly wronged. We are not here to pronounce judgment. Much injustice has been wrought in the name of civilization. Does the end justify the sometimes imjierfect and erring means? Which would be best for the good of the world in general: that 200,000 natives should live on the Hawaiian islands as they did prior to civ- ilization's appearance thereon, or that 200,000 ])eo])le should live there as they do today? Or, 212 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS does it make any particular difference liow tliey live, since all ninst qnit living so soon, anyway? There seems bnt one answer, regardless of the possible imperfections of today. The ter- ril)le slavery of the snbjects of savage, super- stitious, sometimes brutal kings and cliiefs is not for this day and age. The kings of the an- cient Hawaiians were looked upon as almost divine. It was death to pass under the king's shadow, to stand in his presence, to remain standing at the mention of his name, to be near Avhen food that he was to eat was being car- ried by one consecrated to that special service. He willed the death of any of his subjects at any time. The common people owned no prop- erty. They could be dispossessed at will and with each new chief, generally, the old land oc- cupants were dispossessed and the foUow^ers of the new ruler were installed, in much the same manner as we pass out our postoffices today when a nev^ chief takes charge of the White House in Washington, excepting that in the an- cient Hawaiian system there was a greater flow of real blood, generally, with each change of administration. The people were idol worshippers and they were held in a constant state of fear by the priests, or kahunas, who were supposed to be in commmiication with the gods and who pos- sessed the power to pray people to death. Here the black arts were indulged to perfection and as usual the common people were the goats. WITH WORLD'S I'UESS CONUKESS 213 LETTER XXX\1. The Plantations and "Old Hawaii" Honolulu, October 31, 1921 111 none of these letters have 1 told of oiii- trij) to the Hawaiian pineapple plantations, to the canneries, to the sugar mills and through the great cane fields. There is not so ninch to those incidents; not so much that is interest- ing in a novel way. We have canneries in the United States and we have cane fields, too. The Hawaiian pineapple has the reputation of being the finest pineapple in the world. It justifies its reputation. It's a peach of a pine- ai)i)le. They grow to weigh as high as twelve to fifteen pounds, here, and if I am not mistak- en the market value in the field today is about $2().()0 a ton. This fruit grows at a higher level than does the sugar cane; a little different cli- mate is required. Cane and pineapples do not grow well, side by side. I am no authority on the subject but the pineapi^le seems to me to be an odd animal. Does it belong to the cacti tribe? The fruit itself is covered with stubby bristles and the blade of the plant is like a two edged sword. The men who work in the pine- apple fields wear mittens, or gloves to resist the onslaughts of the pineapple spear. Yes it's a real cactus, but the most interesting species of them all. There is another wild cactus which bears an edible fruit, too, but the pineapple cactus has all others beat for real food value. There is one unique feature in connection with the cultivation of pineapples here that oc- casions considerable comment when it is first observed l)y visitors. The growers in some 214 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS instances "paper" their fields. EoUs of paper are s])read over tlie fields, holes cnt in it to let the h'dhy j^ineapple plants through and by that means the pernicions forms of ve^'etation are smothered ont. It's a great idea, isn't it ? When the naughty plants and the bugs get entirely the best of old Mr. "Man" they are going some. In this country a happy comparison is frequently A PINEAPPLE FIELD This is on the top of a mountain of lava; time having melted it into a soil fit to produce large quantities of one of the most delicious fruits that nature has put on her versatile menu. made when the native says to his girl disport- ing her new grass skirt: "It fits like tlie ])a- ])er on dad's pineapple patch." Some rather steep inclines are utilized in pineai)ple growing. Wherever the soil is right l)inea])ples are ])lanted no difference how steep the incline of the ])atch. They tell the story of one Japanese meeting another, the latter all WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 215 loi'ii and ci-ippk'd, and when in(|iiiry was made !)>• Ja}) No. 1 as to the cause of Jap Xo. 2's (lilai)idated condition, Jap No. 2 admitted tliat lie had fallen off his ))inea])))le ])atcli, and Jie staled further that that was the iliii-d time he had "falleu off that summer." The Hawaiian PineaDule Co. took the press deleg'ates out to their great cannery, the largest in the world, showed us all through, fed us on pineap])le until it ran out of our ears, then top- ped off with a fine lunclieon in their great din- ing room wliicli is run in connection with the cannery works, for the acconnnodation of the workers, almost all of whom are Japanese and Chinese. The canning process is interesting. Not a "smell" of the pineapple is wasted, or not very many "smells" anyway. They are peeled, cored, centered, scraped, squeezed, and in several ways treated "rough." We saw the whole process from the picking of the fruit in fields to the boxing of the canned goods in the cannery. Tlie pineapples are fed into the can- ning machinery whole and they don't stop un- til they are solidly under lock and key in half pound, |)Ound, and various other sized tins. The Sugar Plantations Also, we spent a half day studying the Hawaiian Sugar Industry, as the guests of the Hawaiian Sugar Planter's Association. Here we drove through the cane fields and saw them strip the cane by the burning process. That is the sim]ilest system yet. They set fire to the field and let it burn. The fire kills off the in- sects, burns the loose leaves and injures the cane none. At the mill we saw the cane dumped, from the little cars that haul it in from the fields, onto a conveyor and in it goes never stop- ing until it is poured out in the form of brown, 216 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS unrefined sugar into sacks, read}^ to be shipped to the refinery. The plantation we visited was the Oahn Plantation, one of some forty-five on the Ha- waiian islands. The average yield of these plantations annually is about 600,000 tons of sug-ar, enough to make a whole lot of taffy. What say you? The crop on the Hawaiian is- lands is about an eighteen months crop. That means that there are always three crops in the ground in process of development; the crop be- ing harvested, the cro]) Ijeing planted and the crop being cultivated. This keeps the labor em- i)loyed all the while. The great complaint here now is shortage of labor. Because of the shortage of labor the cane is not being harvested as rapidly as it si]ould. If it is not harvested at the right time, it depreciates some, and there is the dou- ble loss of both sugar yield and idle acreage. Efforts are being made now to get more labor to the islands. More oriental labor is what the planters want, for the orientals are the best possible kind of labor for this work. After the inspection of the plantation and tlie mill the delegates were taken to the home of the plantation for luncheon. The luncheon was served on a canopied portion of the beau- tiful lawn. The manager's residence is a state- ly home in the midst of the plantation with great tropical trees and plants immediately surrounding the building. The scene here was another of those strangely different ones; an ocean of cane field, with a break in the cen- ter permitting the building of a beautiful home and with tropical surroundings of extravagant l)eauty suggestive of story pictures rather than of a reality. But it was real. We were there and we ate "hearty" and after that we lis- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 217 ti'iK'd to a Few addresses and then we re- turned by automobile and ti'ain to Honolulu. The Spirit of Hawaii There was an evenino- s])ent in Memorial Park, Waikiki, while the Hawaiian I^itiiotic Societies i)resented "The Spirit of Hawaii, Past and Pres(Mit" to the AVorld Press Delegates. The presentation was outdoors, under the big trees of the park, the andience facing the sea while between them and the sea the players HULA HULA DANCERS appeared in their portrayal of ancient Hawaiian life and customs, music, dances, etc. The spectacle was a wonderful one. There were weird ceremonies in which old men and women, native Hawaiians appeared, illustrat- ing the customs of long ago. Dancers in grass skirts presented the hula hula in a most strik- ing manner. There were j^laintive incanta- tions in which old women chanted in heart-tear- ing tones some tragic story of long-time-ago 218 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Hawaiian history. The dark figures moved in and ont from amoug' the night wrapped trees, making a ghostlike api)earance. The sweetest of all the Hawaiian singers sang in concert and in solos. There were reproductions of cere- monies in which royalty, |)resumably appeared, and the occupations of the ancient Hawaiians were illustrated in tableau. Finally, an epochal period in Hawaiian his- tory was shown by a select group of the Ha- waiians. Legend has it that the first people from the outside world to reach the Hawaiian islands were some Spaniards. Their vessel was wrecked near one of the islands and two young people, a brother and sister, alone reached shore. They were received kindly by the na- tives, were taken into the family of one of the chiefs and eventually became a part of the roy- alty. The landing of this brother and sister on the island in the throes of physical exhaustion, their discovery by two little Hawaiian children, their kindly reception by the older [teople of the tribes, all was shown in a grapic manner. There came next the reproduction of the scene when Kamehameha I made that great ad- vanced step in methods of conquest and offic- ially proclaimed the entirely new law that henceforth in battle the old men and the women and children should be spared. He had dis- covered a law in economics that had been over- looked by previous rulers of the tribes of the Hawaiians, for it had been their custom in con- (juest to spare none, exce])ting the fairest dam- sels. The finale of the evening was a sea scene in which a fleet of Hawaiian canoes passed in review close to the AVaikiki shore, the canoes and occupants showing as dim shadows under WITH WOliLirS rUESS CONGRESS 219 llic |inl(' li^lils ol' llic pi'liiiit i\-(' t<)|-<'li('s cai'- I'icd Ity Hie I [awaiiniis who inaiiiKMl llic boats. This was ati cveiiiiig in "ohl Hawaii," suru (MlOllgh. 220 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXXVII. A Rotary Meeting Honolulu, October 31, 1921 They have all kinds of clubs in Hawaii, all kinds of organizations. In Honolulu they have a wonderfully active Ad Club and that organ- ization entertained the World Press Delegates at an alleged luncheon one da^^ at the Outrigger Club House. We say ' ' alleged ' ' luncheon, ad- visedly. The members of the club issued a bulletin shortly after the event fixing a stain of guilt ui)on the shoulders of a "Greek" caterer whom they charged Avith having "hornswog- gled" them. It was alleged that he had failed miserably on the occasion of the above men- tioned luncheon in his contract to fill the World's Press delegates full of certain defin- itely specified Hawaiian edibles, each to meas- ure u]) to a well understood standard of quality. As will be surmised from the above, the mem- bers of the "Ad Club" feel that they didn't get their money's worth. As for us, the visitors, we got more than our money's worth, but we want to be just as amiable as possible so we are going to stand by the Ad Club in any of their ]:>ronouncements. If they want us to kick, we will kick. The Ad Club put on a nice pro- gram, plenty of good music, good speeches, good stunts, good time, goodbye! I attended two Rotary Club meetings. The Rotarians in Honolulu are very like the Rotar- ians in the cities of our home country. The^^ are "peppy." Hugh Powell of Coffeyville, Kansas, and I count ourselves lucky in that we happened to attend the regular meeting of the WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 221 ilunoliilii ivolary Club at iiuoii, October tlie 27tli. The speaker on that date was V. S. McClatchy, editor of "The Bee," Sacramento, California. Mr, McChitchy spoke on the race question and wliat he didn't say about tlie Ja]) and the "Yelhnv Peril" isn't worth mentioning. Lie Jiad facts and fig'ures to stagger the natives, in which he showed that at the present rate of multiplication it would only be b. few short years before the Japs would out number the whites in our western country and completely absorb everything, if sometliing isn't done to check their progress, numerically and acquis- itively. Mr. McClatchy affirms that the Japs are non-assimilable; that they are devoted to their own form of government and loyal to the emperor, first, last and forever; that Japan as a part of her "national policy to preserve the solidarity of the race, does not permit the as- similation of her citizens by other nations." The Sacramento editor urges the "absolute of exclu- sion" of all Japanese immigration into the United States or any of its possessions, in the future. He makes no exceptions. He bars them all. In this address the speaker gave figures concerning the birth rate of the Japanese in California which indicate that they are multi- plying about three times as fast as the whites. That is one of the "yellow perils;" they bear more fruit than we do; they are more thrifty in the ])ropagation of human kind, and the Sac- ramento man doesn't like the kind. Honolulu evidence sort of supports Mr. McClatchy 's testimony as to the child bearing proclivities of the Japanese. Everywhere we go, on the streets, or in the parks, there are flocks of Jap children. They hatch easily. The speaker called rather disturbing attention, also, to the 222 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS way the Japanese have of taking economic ad- vantages whenever and wherever they can. They are absorbing a great deal of California land; tliey control the fisheries in Hawaii; they are seeking to control the cane and ihe pineapple plantations of Hawaii. But the most comi)ell- ing point that the speaker emphasized was the thonglit that the race is an alien race; an im- possible race. He feels that we are inherently different; that ages of devotion to different customs, religions, manners, etc., have made ns so unchangeably antagonistic that we can't be reconciled. We are hopelessly apart; there is no use of trying to get together. Tliose are Mr. McClatchy's sentiments and he spoke them plainly in a territory in which the population is 40% Japanese and there was no attempt made to kee]i his sentiments secret. The address was pul)lished in full in the evening jjaper on the date that it was delivered. Of course there was discussion. There was no discussion at this Rotary meeting but the newspapers took it up; private citizens took it u]); preachers and teach- ers took it u]); tlie Hawaiian l^orn Ja]ianese took it up. Briefly, the answer is: the Japanese are still more primitive than we are. The friend of the Japanese claims that as the Ja]) takes on the civilization of tlie Occident he becomes more and more like the people who forced him to open the doors to the "Hermit Kingdom," of only a little over a half a century ago, and let the light in, As he takes on western culture he becomes westernized. As it costs more to keep children and educate them, there will be a less number born. When children are cheap, they are plentiful; when they become more expen- sive they will become less i)lentiful, even among the Japanese. WITFI WORLDS PRESS CONGRESS 223 The iiiimi.nrniil Japanese Itcat as (Uil oco- rioiiiicallN'. '1'1k'\' li\e on nothing', of near iiotli- iiiii,-, ill this coiuitry, even as tliey did in Iheir native coiintrN. Tlie second generation be- comes Aiiiei-icanized to the extent of wanting to do like and live like his schoolmates do in the public scliocL 'They want to go to shows, eat ice cream cones, phiy base hall, sing in the choir, ri(k' on the merry-go-ronn(L It is all a matter of adjustment, the friend of tlie Hawai- ian Ja}) says, and tlie adjustment will take care of itself as the influence of our enforced school training works out in the daily life of the de- velo])inlit to get his opinion as to what we might expecti of the Chinese were they so dominant in any part of our country as the Japanese are in Hawaii. He tlionglit a wliile and tlien he said: "Down in their liearts I don't think there is much difference l)etween the Japanese and the Chinese, A Cliinese child is the most cruel thing I know of in the world. I have had a i)ecnliarly favorable opportunity to watch them." I know nothing about the inlierent traits connnon in Japanese and Cliinese; Imt I do know that we have had sufficient evidence here to convince me that they can be modernized; that they can be converted to the use of the au- tomobile, to the wearing of dress suits, to the extravagances of western culture, to indulgence in our sports, to our many and varied methods of increasing the individual's average expense. I have seen enough of them here to know that with very little tutoring they learn to spend money just like those who are a part of the "white peril," for, be it known that while w^e profess to fear a "yellow peril," the Jai^anese, especially, profess to an equally great fear of the "white peril." 234 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXXIX. Incidentals Honolulu, November 1, 1921 Here we are at the threshold of another "sailing" day again. Tomorrow we leave these islands, and strike for the shores of the United States. We have been filled to overflowing with eating and seeing and hearing. What more conld we possibly ask for in so short a while. And there is much that we have seen and heard abont which I have had neither the time nor the talent to write. About Honolulu itself one might write many long letters. It is a city of myriad wonders, especially to the untraveled, such as are many of the visitors on this occasion of the World's Press Congress. Here in this city is blended the east and the west in such a way as to sup- ply orientalism and occidentalism in satisfying quantities to any and all. You pay your mon- ey and take your choice. In the matter of residences — Honolulu has its typically Japanese homes; its Chinese homes; its old English homes; its homes fash- idned after the plans generally Ifollowed in southern Europe. It has its modern American homes; its old Hawaiian homes; its Buddhist, CVitholic and Protestant cluirches and ceme- teries; its Japanese and Chinese shops, into which you step to immediately get the pungent odor of incense and there comes to your service always, typical orientals who si^eak .I'ust enough of our native tongue to l)e able to understand what they want to understand and no more. And the children — hundreds and hundreds WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 235 oL' c'liildii'ii who all look alike to us. No cloiiljt to the CUiinese and tlie Japanese their off- si)ring are as different as our own little ones in appearance and in deportment; but to ns, the far east "tots" all look alike — as like as two ])eas in a pod. The Ja})anese and the Filipinos seem to be the servants here. In our hotel, the "Moana," the service is entirely Japanese and it is good service. The bedroom "girls" are Japanese boys. You call for service from your room and a Japanese boy answers the call; understands enough to do yonr liidding and does it promptly and well. In the dining room the "waitresses" are all Japanese boys; the head "waitress" is a Japanese man. He receives you with a smile and directs you to your seat with all the grace necessary for your comfort. The waiters are not very communicative. I confess to a cer- tain feeling of awe in their presence. I some- times feel that perhaps some of them hold us in, at least mild contempt; but they take the tips just the same. And as for that attitude of con- tempt — I have never felt it so much since as T did once on a vessel that had for its state room attendants a crew of English men-serv- ants. I think that in that instance the con- tempt was prompted by the fact that we treated them too nearly as equals. They had been ac- customed to tile aristocracy of England and they needed to be steadfastly ignored. Our un- couth manners together with a too familiar at- titude toward them branded us as provincials in their eyes, at any rate those English "cham- bermen" made us feel very like inferior be- ings while we were in their presence. But I shall tell you how I fell into the good graces of the Japanese boys in the Moana din- ing room. For several days I was but as one 236 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS of the many. I came and went to the meals, received the conrteous, bnt not enthusiastic at- tention of tlie Jap boys in tlie dining room. They were stoical. I hardly knew if they could say more than "yes" and no" and brokenly mumble the titles of the offerings on the menu cards. They looked upon me I assumed with an interest that was prompted solely by their mental speculations as to how large a tip they might expect from me. There came a change. In connection with the World's Press Con- gress meetings there were the Pan-Pacific Press meetings and on the first day of the Pan- Pacific meetings the World Press delegates were to be entertained at the noon hour b}" res- idents of Honolulu who received their guests into their homes, or took them to a hotel, or to a clul) for entertainment. Mr. and Mrs. Regin- ald Ortcuff, of Brooklyn, N. Y., and this writer fell into the hands of C. Yadda, Japanese con- sul in Honolulu. It just so happened! And, it should be exi)lained that C. Yadda is the biggest Japanese in point of influence and position in the Hawaiian Islands. He represents his maj- esty, the emi)eror, on the islands and because of the fact that the Hawaiian islands are looked upon as the center of things in the Pacific a man of high national standing was chosen for this i)lace. Mr. and Mrs. C. Yadda decided that they would take their guests to the Moana hotel for the luncheon so we were driven to the Moana hotel in the consul's elegant limousine and Mr. Yadda led us into the big dining I'oom of the hotel with all the dignity naturally belonging to so great and so powerful a man as is Mr. Yadda. Well, well! didn't those Japanese wait- ers stand up and take notice when they saw us l^eing ushered into the hotel under the leader- WITH WOKLUS PRESS CONGRESS 237 sliip ol' ilK'ii- \ery own "hii;- ,i;uu" oi' tliu is- lands. The head waitcf was 'Mohnnic-on-tlic- spot. " We were led to a beantifnlly api)ointed tabU^ lookin,^- ont witli the best j)Ossible advant- age over tile sea. "Service" was the first, hist, and micUlle names of Japanese boys who waited npon us, and we discovered tliat almost all of them had a vocabulary of English very much more extended than I liad ever heard from them before. Two stood about and waved big ])alm leaves over us, while others brought on the edibles. Our slightest wants were at- tended to Avith an alacrity that was astonish- ing. Whatever we needed, that we had just be- fore we needed it. C. Yadda and his guests got such service on this occasion as was rarely ren- dered in this hotel, I am sure, and ever after that date I was an object of extremely cordial attention from those Jap boys whenever I drift- ed into the Moana dining room. The city of Honolulu and all the surround- ings are very picturesque. To the right, fac- ing the city from the harbor, is Diamond Head, a mountain promitory bulging far out into the sea. Behind the city the hills rise ra])idly into mountains, beautifully green, and checkered here and there with small plantations, country residences, public buildings, etc. The city ex- tends up into a half dozen little valleys that are ridged sharply on the sides by precipitous hills that extend quickly to mountain heights. Diamond Head, I might add is an extinct vol- cano, and the crater which is large enough to be utilized as/ a drilling field for a few regi- ments of soldiers is also the background for the extensive fortifications of the point. At the edge of the city just north is another extinct volcano, the "Punch Bowl," a crater 238 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS about five liiindred feet high. From it one gets a most beautiful view of the city, the harbor, and the wide sweep of the Pacific to the south and west. The Nuuanno valley leads to the Pali, the mountain pass referred to in a recent letter. Instantly one is through the Pali, the COL. AND MRS. EDWARD F. LAWSON, LONDON Everybody liked them, because they made themselves likable and useful. The colonel was busy all the vvhile. At home he is one of the proprietors of the London Daily Telegraph. "Good scouts" was the general verdict. ocean on the northern side of the islands, comes into view. In a few moments driving from the city of Honolulu one can be hundreds of feet above the city and from those heights look out over scenery* which baffles the tongue or pen to describe. There is a blending of city, sea. WITH WORLDS PRESS CONGRESS 239 iiioiiiilaiiis, valleys, unuiiR' seacoa.st i'oriiuitiuns, reel's, islands — such a variety of things as makes the whole vision one to satisfy the most exact- ing- seeker after scenic excitement. Fine roads back from Honolulu into the mountains nuike automobile travel a delight. With each added fifty and one hundred feet in the ascent the beauties are enhanced. There are ridge sunmiits on some of the mountains along which roads have been built and the grandeur of the scenic perspective beggar description. Within the city of Honolulu tlie vegetation beauties are fascinating to the visitor from the north. Such beautiful colors; such a variety of different foliages, plants, trees. There are flowering hedges and hedges in which the leaves are of soft, variegated colorings, brown, red, grey, and dainty yellows. There are flow- ering trees, that spread far and wide; great ban- yans, and i)alms; such wonderful ]ialms! the king of them all being that great, white trunked, sky reaching royal palm. The cocoanut, the ]3apaia, the bread fruit trees are everywhere to be found, as are the wild bananas and other fruit producing trees and plants. And the vines. We shall not forget them, for they too blend into the whole scene with a delicate, ar- tistic finishing touch. Yes, and there was the "Kapu" tree. Mr. Thales Coutoupis, our Greek friend, came upon a "Kapu" tree at the entrance to a beautiful residence and grounds on King street. The beauties of the great tree fascinated him. It towered high and mighty. It stretched its arms far and bore a burden of brightly leaved branches without a murmur. Mr. Coutoupis paused to take down the name of the "Kapu" tree and write a lengthy description of it. He had just completed his notes and was about to 2 40 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS move on when a local resident pansed in pass- ing- to extend the courtesies of the day. Mr. Contoupis remarked upon the beauties of the "Kapu" tree. "Kapuf" queried the local man, and then g-lanced up at the sign on the tree "Kapu." He smiled. "Kapu," he explained to Mr. Con- toupis is, the Hawaiian word for "keep out" and the "Kapu" sign on the big tree was to suggest to passers by that they pass on by and do not dare turn aside and invade the priv- acy of the sacred grounds defended by the "kapu" sign. Mr. Coutoupis "kapu-ed" and he made a few erasures in his note book, too. Have I previously mentioned the fact that Mr. Cou- tou]ns was a member of the deposed Venizelos' cabinet in Greece during the world war! Mr. Coutou]ns is still faithful to his chief. In that he has the entire sympathy of all his new found friends in these parts. By the way, just to- night, at 10 o'clock, he and others of our party including Walter Williams, Bill Smith and ex- U. S. Senator F. B. Glass and son and their wives sail westward for a stay of a few weeks in Japan and China. The patriarch of our i)artv is Mr. Frank M. Mills, of Sioux Falls, So. Dakota. Mr. Mills is in his 91st year. You wouldn't think it. He's as much of a kid as any of the playful bunch. Born April 4th, 18.31, in Indiana, a good state to leave, as George Ade has admitted, he left on his 25th birthday and went to Keokuk, Iowa. Of course, we lowans are interested in him. And especially are the Iowa publishers inter- ested in him, for he was one of us for forty- six years. He took such well known Iowa men as Lafe Young, Al Swalm, J. S. Clarkson and others from the mechanical departments of his WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 241 Des Moines proporty the old liej^istcr wliicli he hoii^i^-lit ill 18G() aiul started them out hustling news, later helped start them in Inisines.s and look, where they are now. Mr. Mills was state printer for four terms and published fifty-six volumes of the Iowa Su|)reme Court records. Eventually he left Iowa and bought the S]u-ing- field News, 111., which he sold to Frank B. Lou- den. For the past seventeen years he has been head of the "Sioux City Traction System." He owns that system and evidently he is getting just as much joy out of the traction business as he used to get out of the publishing business. Oh yes, here's another interesting thing about Mr. Mills: he received his Masters De- gree from Wabash College, Indiana, after he had passed ninety years of age. And, yester- day afternoon, as I was ambling toward the bath houses at Waikiki beach, preparatory to taking a plunge, who should I meet coming out of the great wet, as cai^ery as a kitten, but our dear friend Frank Mills, aged ninety, plus. 242 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LETTER XXXX. The Maui Sails At Sea, November 3, 1921 We sailed yesterday at 10 a, m. on the trip liomeward. It is sometimes claimed that pas- senger ship sailings for any part of the main lands from Honolulu are made more of than from any other port in the world. We are not prepared to testify with authority as to the jus- tice of such a claim, but certainly in this in- stance the sailing was made most interesting and beautiful by the residents of Honolulu who simply followed, we are informed, the usual cus- toms of the people of that city under like cir- cumstances. Friend Pringle called for me at the hotel at about eight o'clock and as we were leaving a Japanese steward hung a wreath of flowers over my neck with the remark : ' ' This with our aloha." The Avreath was a beautiful collection of lavender flowers, woven into a green back- ground and estimating its value at about the figures that are usually ])ut on such trinkets in our country we would have to admit that some- body had been set back about $10.00 in provid- ing such a piece of harness for just one hum- ble guest, and there were many others receiving the same treatment. Hawaii is a land of flow- ers, though, so why speculate on costs, partic- ularly in a case like this, Avhere the costs were not to be l)orne by us, or if they were borne by us the extraction was accomplished in such a surreptitious manner tliat we suffered no pain in the oi)eration. However, the wreath around my neck made WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 243 1110 f (>ol as tliouoli T innst look iiuich like an over- col larcd mule. 1 lelt that 1 was the most coii.spic- iious thing' in the village. Just as soon as I got out to tlie car witli my baggage I took the wreatli off and laid it on the back seat. At the wharf I was going to take it on tlie l)()at and leave it thei-e, but niv friend insisted not. "Put it on," lie said. "It's pretty." Since many others were wearing them, I put mine on again, reluctantly, and went up town to make a final arrangement or two before sailing, feel- ing all the while like the above mentioned mule might be supposed to feel. Strangely enough, no one looked at me with amused, or critical eyes. Such a spectacle as I must have been seemed to be quite the thing on the streets of Honolulu. At every corner there were girls and women, most of them natives with these "leis" for sale. They had them in all sizes, colors, qualities, and very many people were wearing them. My friend bought two and threw them over my head. "This is our way of saying, good-bye, good luck, bon voyage, God bless you, etc., etc.," he said. At the dock a member of some Honolulu committee threw an- other yoke over my shoulders and soon another newly found friend reached the wharf to say good-bye to me, and he, too, carried with him a beautiful wreatli of lilies which took its place with all the others as a floral neckpiece. Had I been the only one so bedecked I think I would have jum])ed into the sea rather than have faced the multitude, but I was not the only one; there were hundreds of others, many of them literally buried in flowers and ]^aper wreaths. Some had a dozen or so of the beau- tiful "leis" piled high upon their shoulders: thev could barely see through them. P^rom the dock, the scene of the hundreds of 244 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS passengers leaning over the deck rail, each dec- orated with a great mass of flowers of myriad dainty colors mnst have been amazingly pretty. Below a band played stirring airs and from the deck, too, passengers threw" out long streamers of thin, narrow paper in variegated colors and hundreds of those waved in the air and played into the faces of the friends on the dock below. At ten o'clock the gang plank dropped, the great boat started to swing gently out into the MR. AND MRS. S. G. GOLDTHWAITE, BOONE, IOWA, AND FRIENDS Mr. Goldthwaite standing, rear; Mrs. Goldthwaite, right. This illustrates the beautiful Hawaiian custom of be- decking their friends with collars of flower called "Leas" water and, amid shouting and singing and band music and waving flags and streamers, we were away; off again toward home, leaving "the par- adise of the Pacific" behind. Far out in the harbor we could still hear the sweet voices of the Hawaiians singing the tenderly beautiful "Aloha Oe" as their goodbye to us. The ship we travel in this time is the "Maui," a sister ship of the Matsonia on which we came across. There are but two of us in our WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 245 (•n])iii tliis time, my ('oiii]);nii()n being- a Mr. E. II. Childress, of Fairfield, 111. ()nr bedroom steward is an Israelite by the name of McGoorty — J. MeGoorty. He looks the part. When we first went down into onr ea])in tlie })ort was open and a nice cool breeze was coming into our room; later in the day we found the port tightly closed, and the air a little close in our compart- ment. However, we had traveled enough at sea to be a little careful about opening ports on our own responsibility, and sure enough, soon after, we heard a heavy splash and glancing up we noticed that the glass over the port was turning- off a deluge of water. A few^ moments later our Israelite friend passed by our way using old testatment lan- guage and carrying an armload of clothing, beautifully saturated. We hailed him long- enough to gather the information that a " idiot" in a nearby cabin had opened his port with the result that a barrel or so of loose sea had come in through the opening, submerging a trunk full of clothing and a lower bunk in nice, juicy sea water. ''And the ' is claim- in' that he didn't open the port. I closed every of them," protested McGoorty. "Now he's got his clothes in a of a shape!" was McGoorty 's parting comment on that topic. "It's awfully wet out here," I thoughtfully observed, "roads never get dusty at all do they?" "Never a bit," admitted McGoorty. "I've made eighty trips across here now, and no dif- ference liow many go over the road, or how fast they run, the dust never bothers any at all, wet weather or dry it don't make no difference." "Out ill! Iowa where I come from, it gets pretty dusty sometimes along during the sum- mer, when there is little rain," I explained. 246 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ''lo-way is a pretty dry state, I've hear-ed," ]\Ir. McGroorty observed as lie trudged on with his dripping Inirden in liis arms. The sea is running a little heavy again. This is winter weather. It is always a little rough in Xoveml)er and December one of the officers informed us. We were l^arely out into the open sea before people began to get sick. Some of them evidently decide that they have to be sick and "go to it" at once. The person I feel sorry WERE FROM I-O-W-A "Where the tall corn grows" Ed Medary of W^aukon and Hawaiian friends who trace their ancestry back to the Corn Belt District of Iowa. for though is the one who discovers that he is sick too late and can't ([uite make the unloading port, but sort of spills himself along the deck, much to the amusement of the more fortunate and sometimes unsympathetic travelers. There is, it is true, something sort of ridiculously un- dignified about the attitude of a sea sick per- son. He fails to arouse sympathy. Better make the best of it; make a joke out of it if possible. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 247 T]](' (•()in])r('li(Misive comniciit of one seasick ])cr- soii: "I I'aise all 1 oat down liorc," covers more than is sliown on the snrl'ace of the remark. Mv table companions are Afr. and Mrs. Ilug-li Powell, of Coffevville, Kansas, and Mr. and Mrs. C. H. McMaster of Galveston, Texas. Mr. McMaster and Mrs. Powell seem to be the two of onr oroiip avIio are liavin.G,- a little difficulty in "li()idini>- their own." Mr. McMaster con- fes.^es that he didn't last night. Mrs. Powell looks as if she had had equal success, but both face life bravely. Mr. McMaster says he be- lieves in a hereafter and while Mrs. Powell ad- mits that there has been a time or two when she didn't care whether there is or not, she be- lieves that on the average her sentiments favor an after life, providing- it doesn't "Rock on the billows of the deep." The only thing that has had a tendency to make this writer sick is the way the ship turns around. I will go down stairs and travel around through the boat and then come up to find that it is going southwest instead of northeast; then I will walk across from one side of the boat to the other through a passageway and find that while I was making that trip the boat turned around and is once more headed the right way. Then some acquaintance will come along and we will walk a few steps, maybe up to the up- per deck, or down stairs and come up again and find the boat headed l)ack to Honolulu. Even now as I look out the port hole the boat seems to be headed toward tlie south pole and going farther and farther away from home instead of toward it. All I need to do though to get things right again is to go to the other side of the boat and climb a short flight of stairs and lo and be- hold the world will be straight again! The ocean is wonderfully beautiful down 248 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS here and there is so niiieh of it; east 2000 miles, west 3000 miles, north 3500 miles, south almost to the south pole without interru])tion. We thought we saw a whale yesterday, but we were mistaken. Two porpoise were driving tandem and they looked big enough to be a whale. Later we saw a group of three of the porpoise. They were big fellows and are the one big fish who seem to enjoy showing themselves above water. The ladies of our table say that they saw octo- puses on sale in the fish market in Honolulu. With all our hatred of vested interests, Stand- ard Oil, packers, sugar trust, steel trust, etc., who'd want to EAT an octopus! They do make a dainty dish, though, so they say. I stood for about an hour at the aquarium out at Waikiki beach with Mr. and Mrs. Powell one afternoon and watched six live octopuses man- euver around through the water and the next morning I wondered what had come over the spirit of my dreams the night before that prompted them to persistently deal with snake subjects during the sad hours of that night. I saw snakes of all kinds and battled with them from every corner. They were filthy looking snakes, too, great and small wrigglers, always threatening me. The moral to this touching story is don 't stand too long before the octupus cage when you go to the aquarium. Weir I'd better quit right here. My room- mate has just come in admitting that he is wrong amidshii^s, that he feels a disturbance in his hatch, and that but a few moments ago while on deck he was forced to heave out a lit- tle breakfast ballast. By the way, this is what our boat is carrying this trip in addition to her nice list of passengers: 85,000 bags sugar; 70,- 000 cases pineapple; 4,000 bunches of bananas and 1,000 tons of molasses. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 249 LETTER XXXXI. A New World At Sea, November 5, 1921 We are now three days out, a tlioiisand miles from land and about half way between Honolulu and San Francisco. Since leaving- Honolulu we have not seen anything excepting our boat and its occupants, the big blue sea, an occasional sea bird and the sky until just a lit- tle while ago when the Matsonia the boat on which we went to Honolulu, hove in sight and is now out of sight again. We spoke in passing. The Matsonia lowered a small boat and brought mail across to us, receiving mail also. In addi- tion to that they handed over two stowaways, who had hidden themselves in the Matsonia at San Francisco and after a three days' voyage out are now headed back for another three days trip before being landed at the place they started from. All their dreams of wintering in the tropics have gone glimmering for the pres- ent and they are now diligently polishing up railings, scrubbing deck floors and doing other petty chores under the attentive command of a rather petulantly inclined seaman. The sick seem to be getting better gradually. The sea is just waving pleasantly. I am in- clined to think that this part of the Pacific is pacific. Talking to the ship barber yesterday I learned that he has been on this run for twelve years now, making every trip that his boat makes, which is one round trip every three weeks, and in all that time a dangerously se- vere storm has never been encountered by the boat. r)n two trips only has the ship been de- 250 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS laved by heavy seas. On those trips, he ex- phiined, the ship rolled all tlie way across. They had to run at half speed and tlie waves swept the decks most of the time, hut he did not sug- gest that there was any particular danger. The delay and the unpleasantness of such travel was all he complained about. If all goes well we should land in San Fran- cisco earlv Tuesdav morning. We have had or- ders to arrange to have all our baggage open for inspection by the horticultural authorities when we reach San Francisco. I have there- fore begun arranging my soiled socks, handker- chiefs, shirts, pantaloons, etc., in convenient form so that they will have no difficulty in as- certaining that they are what they pretend to be. The horticultural authorities fear that we may smuggle some agricultural pests into the United States through the medium of trans- ported plants, flowers, fruits, etc. So near as I can learn there is little to fear. Hawaii is no more infested with insect pests than is the mainland. In fact, to start with, Hawaii had no ])ests at all and what she has now were im- ])orted from other countries. She never was in the pest export business. The reason is simple enough. The islands of Hawaii are volcanic is- lands. They rose right up out of the sea with- out any advance notice to anybody. There were no bugs, no insects of any kind, no vege- tation, no human beings on that lava nose that suddenly, one day, shoved itself up through the blue waters of the Pacific and took' one first glance at the star speckled sky above. Such an incident in world development looks like a new creation almost, doesn't it? Here was a. new world to be built. A piece of lava and upon this lava there was to appear eventually vegetation and animal life. How was it going WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 251 to linpjicii? Tt (lid liapixMi and the process is simple (Mi()ni;li after all. 'riic now islands "'row, more lava came np and spi'ead out and the is- lands became larger and moi'o nnmerons. The weather began its i)rocesses of mannfactni'ing- soil. It beat ui)on the lava with wind and ram and oradnally melted the top into dnst. The sea did its part, too. It carried the first veftetable seeds from the distant lands and planted then* in the virgin soil of this new world of oni's. The seeds grew into plants; the plants died down and rotted and made more soil and soil of a dif- ferent kind, and so was bnilt the foundation for agricultural activities on this ])oint of lava which had so imi)udently crowded the ocean out of its way and taken a front seat in one of the most pleasantW situated spots on the earth, some hundreds of thousands, mavbe a million years ago. How came animal life on these islands? Much that is here has come since man came. Of course, l)irds established themselves long, hmg ago. Transportation is not so difficult for birds. Two thousand miles of sea travel is a long: journey for a land bird, l)ut who knows, maybe two hundred thousands of years ago there were other islands in existence that are not in ex- istence now, and all those little birds had to do to get to Hawaii was to hop from one stone to another, from one little island to another until they finally got to Hawaii and finding in Ha- waii the safest place for birds that they had ever known, they settled on those islands, built homes, reared families, established bird schools and churches and lived peacefully for many, many centuries. They lived very peacefully in Hawaii be- cause their land enemies were not there to both- er them. There were no squirrels, no snakes cf 252 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS any kind. There are no reptiles on any of the Hawaiian islands. A man would be drawn and quartered if he brought a snake into any of the island ports. The mongoose is now destruc- tive of birds and their eggs. It is about the size of a rat, a native of India and may have been brought here by some one who kept them as pets, or may have arrived by boat as a stow- away. When civilized man came to these islands there were no mosquitoes, no flies, none of those common little insects that so studiously ap- ply themselves to making life unpleasant for us who live on the larger continents. The mosquitoes of Hawaii were imported They are a smaller variety than the Jer- sey brand, or even the Iowa brand, but they seem to bore just as deep and there is not much difference in the songs they sing as they go about their work. The flies in Hawaii are not so vivacious as are the flies of Iowa. They move more slowly, are not so light upon the wing. They do not seem to enter into life with that zest common to our Iowa fly product. They are lazy in action and they fall into the sou]) more deliberately, with less splash than do the flies that have been reared in the more invigor- ating climes of the north. Was there a new creation of man, especi- ally for the Hawaiian islands? No, it is not so assumed. The theory is that adventuresome islanders from the Samoan or Society groups south were the first to find Hawaii and that they found it only after vegetation and animal bird life had gotten well established on the newly found group of islands. Drift, too, from the far north and northeast frequently reaches the northeastern coast of the Hawaiian is- lands. Human beings out on the sea in WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 253 boats fishing might have been carried out and driven to tiie Hawaiian coasts. At any rate, wlien so-calkul civilized man discover- ed the Hawaiian islands he found otlier men there, and they were a race advanced in many ways beyond the savage stage. History and legend tends to show that there were peo]:)le of Tihiti, some two thousand miles from Hawaii, many centuries ago who were dar- ing explorers. How^ever, it is not known wheth- er they were really native explorers, or whether they had reached Tihiti from Hawaii and then traveled back and forth in their little canoe fleets. Some choose to believe that the north- ern and eastern islands were inhabited first and the spread was made south and southeast in line with the ])revailing winds and ocean currents. The inhabitants of all these islands are linked Ti]i in a common race parentage. The point of dispersement is placed, by some authorities, at SaA^aii, one of the Samoan group, two thou- sand miles south of Hawaii. The natives of New Zealand, (probably populated later than Hawaii,) of the Philippine Islands, the Hawai- ian Islands, Society Islands, etc., etc., are all supposed to have originally proceeded from the <'ommon center above named. The real facts concerning the above are not jcnown. But, certain it is, eventually men got to Hawaii, after the lava had cooled and the vegetation had got a good start and there they settled and there they have been ever since. Tlie history of Hawaiian life and rule under na- tive chiefs seems to be the story of one tragedy after another; battle after battle between rival chiefs who sought to control. No quarter was given in battle and since they were battling all the time, there was butchery going on all the time, too. A captured chief was ]irom|)tly 254 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS cooked, but not eaten. There are no records to show that the Hawaiians liked to eat each other, but they did like to roast each other, and the human sacrifice was one of their religious forms. Even so late as within comparatively modern times, since white men found the is- lands, the custom of human sacrifice was con- tinued. Some forty years after the discovery of the islands by Captain Cook in 1778, Queen Keo- puolani, wife of King Kamehameha 1st, became ill and her condition was so serious that the king began offering human sacrifices in order to pacify the gods. He ])icked out ten nice, fat men for sacrifice but after three of them had been killed the queen began to show signs of improvement in health and the other seven men were released. The above named king solidi- fied the islands into one group, under his king- ship and it was during the later years of his reign that he began to comprehend that there were some defects in the religious practices of his people. He was led to that understanding by his contact with the outside world. At the age of 82, in the year 1819, one year before the missionaries reached Hawaii, this king died is- suing on his death bed the order that the human sacrifice should not be made as a part of his obsequies. This was the beginning of a new epoch in Hawaiian history; an epoch sometimes beautiful, at ether times not so pretty. Once put under restraint the Hawaiian peo- ple showed themselves to be docile, submissive, hospitable, tender hearted and deeply respon- sive to the religious and other emotions. Some of those very dualities, however, tended the wrong way and led the people into snares, made them willing and delighted participants in de- Ijaucheries, and has helped materially to de- WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 255 l)lote tlu'ir iinmbers. Tlioy cannot fto the '•]ia('(!" and sni*\ive. From a |)o|)nlation of perhaps lM)(), ()()() when Ca])tain Cook diseovered the is- hinds tlie nnmber has slirnnk to al)ont 25,000 now. That does not inclnde the mixed famil- ies. The Hawaiian ])eople assimilate readily. They have intermarried with the Portn^nese, the Chinese, the whites and with several other races, the ])rodnct being of good grade. The Hawaiian as he is today is splendidly treated in his native land. They are in no way looked down ii)3on. They are gentle in manner, courteons, have been reared with the nnder- standing that they are as good as other people and there is never any thought of anything dif- ferent. One comes in contact with them on ev- ery hand in Honokiln, in public office, in i)Osi- tions of trust, as police officers, as street car and train conductors, etc., etc. They are a lov- able people. On the boat the first day out from Honolulu I noticed a young soldier l)oy in uniform. He didn't make himself very conspicuous; was generally at the rear of the boat in a secluded spot alone. There came an evening later when I was wandering around on the upper deck, and in the aimlessness of my meanderings I thread- ed my way through some boat paraphernalia to a seat well astern, hidden from the brutal gaze of O CO m H s-i e^- Q) bo O.S o O C ,£3 cS a> to be '- O) bo 1-1 M O to o; ^^ ? a> 55 WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 259 LETTKK XXXXII. On Land Again En Train — Homeward, November 10, 1921 We fog horned into San Francisco the morn- ing of the eightli. Away along in the night, or in the early morning, rather, jjerhaps at about fonr o'clock, many of us were awakened from our pleasant or unpleasant dreams as the case may have been, by the intermitten roar of the Maui's fog horn. We had heard the whistle but once before, that was when on the afternoon of Sunday, the 6th, the crew had been called to fire drill by the shriek of the whistle. To be awakened rudely during the nis'lit by that same noise prompted the mental surmise that there might be a really for sure fire this time. A little meditation though supplemented by an attempted glance through the port hole to see what could be seen, cleared the mystery, or rather "mist"-ified the mystery, for one little attempt to see through the port hole showed that a curtain of heavy fog was enveloping all the great without. From that moment we were perfectly satis- fied to listen to that whistle. If it didn't ring forth its hoarse clarion pretty frequently we wondered why and were inclined to go ''for'd" and stand on the deck in order to call to any on-coming boat that might threaten to bump us into kingdom come. The sound of a fog horn on another boat not far distant from us was not re-assuring but nothing serious happen- ed. By the time daylight had come there were shrieks all around us. We were anchored in the harbor; had crawled through the Golden 260 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Gate by some means and were idling- on the quiet sea in the deep fog waiting I'or some one to find us. We couldn't go to dock until after the immigration officers had come aboard and looked us over. Finally a small boat representing the steam- ship line found us and brought great joy to many of the passengers by bringing aboard the great mass of mail that had accumulated in the office during the six days that the Maui had l)een at sea. From the bridge an officer called down to the small boat: "Tell the custom house that we've been swingin' out here in the smoke for two hours waitin' for 'em, an' be quick about it. We're tired of this!" Out into the mist shot the little boat, squeal- ing its warning as it went and in the course of an hour or so a larger boat flying a profusion of U. S. flags came alongside and we knew then that we were in the hands of the enemy. Such an impudent bunch of people you never saw; butting into our private affairs just as if they belonged to our respective families. Eeally, what business has an entire male stranger ])rowling around through a lady's touch-me- nots? But that's the way the customs officers do; hunting for opium, 25% hair oil, forbidden fruits and the likes. They didn't find any over per cent hair oil on our boat. It had all been disposed of the night before. Much as we dis- like to admit it, yet it was a fact that the evening before we landed, there Avas evidence that some one had smuggled some wild cow's milk aboard. At a dinner table not far from where our modest party sat we suddenly discovered that the hilarity was increasing by leaps and bounds. I had to turn around to see what was going on WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 261 l)iit 1 (lid nil that and the fii'st tliiiio- I noticed was that a yoiiiin' woman witii shoes and stocU- in^2i's and a niinoi- article or two on was sniok- ini;- a cigarette and trying to see if she could see clear across the table. Once in a while she would laugh, a wild, free, unrestrained laugh thjit teni])orarily did away witli the need of any foghorn on the boat. Also, a German gentleman by the name of McCarty seated at the same table seemed im- mensely pleased with himself; his eyes spark- led in merriment, he was evidently glad to be aboard with such a large and well behaved conii)any. He arose to addi'ess the audience, but a friend considerately pulled him down and he didn't get on his feet again until he and his friends found it necessary to make a journey to their state rooms, or to whatever point there was on the boat that housed the' supply for their thirst requirements. It is a very great pleasure to be able to state that one of the gentlemen of this party had never y^et seen the soil of America's main land. Three were Australians, two were from Hawaii and the wild woman was the wife of a tenor who had sung such a beautiful solo at a social gathering in social hall the evening before. The tenor's part in this evening's celebration did not extend beyond an effort to eat the paper cap with which one of his friends had decorated his cranium when he first came to dinner. The customs officers were not such bad fel- lows after all. They were nice about it, and I liave it on good authority that they were just as gentle with the belongings of the ladies as could reasonably be expected. At first I had thought what a shame that men are permitted to do all this inspecting of baggage, irrespective of whether it is man's belongings or woman's 262 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS ])e]ongings that are being gone throngli. Why not have woman inspectors? Why not be fair about itf And then, I remembered that the customs boat had come out early m the morn- ing through a dense fog that the surroundings on the customs boat were rather bleak and bare, and that when the customs boat got to our boat a fifty foot ladder rope was thrown from our deck to the customs boat and one by one tlie customs officers climbed up that swinging lad- der, holding on for dear life and then when each got to the railing he threw a leg up over the railing and struggled aboard. This is done to expedite the process of docking the big boat. A fog delays it some, but in fair weather, the customs boat aims to meet the big boat, and do the inspecting while the steamer docks. The boat landing is very commonplace as com])ared to its sailing. There are no bands to meet it, excepting bauds of taxi drivers, bag- gagemen and an occasional friend who has come down early and stood waiting for an hour; maybe two. mavbe three for the boat to dock. Our newspaper party broke up. Hither and thither the people went, never all to be together again. All were agreed that the opportunities of the trip just ended had been unprecedented in the offering of interesting things to see and study. None of the party had ever had so much crowded into so short a time before. We had been a long distance away from our respective homes; had seen world wonders in su]^er-almnd- ance, had attended interesting meetings in which people from many different nations had participated; had dined with governors, gener- als, admirals, mayors, ca])tains, consul gener- als, black people, white i)eo])le, l)rown people, good natured people, grouchy people and man}' other kinds. WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 263 It luul been a great voyage from many points of view; from the social, tlie entertaining and the educative. Of course there had been little annoyances. The party was the usual conglom- erate party. There were those who liked this and those who liked that, and those who didn't like this and that, but there was none who didn't like something. There was no place on this excursion for the animal wdio never finds anything to his liking. There was something here for everybody, of wdiatever temperament. I stayed in San Francisco just long enough to make arrangements for a direct passage lionie after making a short visit at Palo Alto, thirty miles out. It is but an hour's run out to this little city, on the Southern Pacific railway, by trolley car, or by motor bus. There are three methods of rapid transportation available here at any hour of the day. Good roads make mo- tor travel a delight all times of the year. I chose the railway line for my path to Palo Alto, for with all the faults of the railway companies of the past "I love them still." There is too much of a tendency to "inter the good they have done w^ith their bones," Even as I write we are rolling across the country in a Santa Fe train and we have been so rolling for ten hours and will roll along for twenty more hours at a gait of about forty miles an hour through country stone covered, gray, dry, barren of all vegetation excepting some thin, struggling grass, sage brush and cacti. For liundreds and hundreds and hundreds of miles you see nothing that appeals to an lowan as sufficient to justify human habitation. This was for many 3'ears the w^orld acknowledged ''Great American Desert," never in human his- tory to be more than it was for many centuries before the new world was known! It was the 264 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS desperately dry, liot, cacti, prairie dog and rat- tle snake infested desert region of tlie United States. It took men of great vision to see clear across these once entirely barren plains, out into the more promising tributary valleys and over into a future that would link the east and the west into projects of industrial development MR. AND MRS. FRANK C. EDGECOMBE Geneva, Nebraska Mr. Edgecombe does not admit that sightless ,eyes handicap him in his work as editor of one of Nebraska's brightest papers. He "saw" the sights of Hawaii through his wife's eyes. A bright pair of real "folks." sucli as were undreamed of save by those dar- ing men who hiid the iron paths across the hopelessly dreary desert in order that the best might be made of nature's supi)lies. Foremost in their minds may have l)een personal gain, but it was a personal gain that did not always WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 265 work out, and wlien it did woi'k out it cari'ied with il i\ national expansion of resources and industrial (le\'eloi)nient that no human being had ever aiitic*ii)ated. Now eonies the motor car. Just at my right out the window I see the Santa Fe trail and just as I wrote tlie above line another tour- ist whizzed on toward the perpetually summer climate of southern California. Five passen- gers who might have been railway passengers go motoring to the west. We pass them com- ing and going every few moments, every day. They follow the railway lines; thousands and thousands of them. The towns that the rail- road built across the desert are the towns where the motorist stops at night, gets his edible and motor supplies and goes on his way rejoicing. If the railroad train were a jealous animal it would certainly hate the automobiles that go rollicking by, carrying erstwhile railway pas- sengers. But, the railway train does not bite and kick at its new competitor. All it asks is that the motor car keep off the railway track when the train needs it and all will be well. The motor truck, too, all over the country wliere the highw^ays permit is beginning to be a strong competitor of the railway in freight handling. The transportation problems of our country are changing, and pretty soon when we go hunting in politics we may have to load our pop guns with other ammunition besides anti-railroad thunder. Some day we may go gunning for jit- nevs. 2 66 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS At Home Washington, Iowa, November 20, 1921 Here I am at home again; have been home for several days. The old town is just the same; so are the old folks. A seven weeks ab- sence has not altered the complexion of the landscape much either. It's a little cooler at niohts; the "frost is on the pumpkin" and we are on the threshold of winter, but that is the way of things here this time of the year. It seems a long distance to Honolulu, Hilo, Kilauea, Kahului, Haleakala, Waikiki, Wai- alua. They are far away. There is a great stretch of land and then a whole lot of water between us. The wonder to me is: how do the boats ever find Hawaii f There is no beaten path; no cow trail; no sign boards, excepting the stars of heaven; no familiar traveler to tell you where to turn; no farm houses at which to inquire the way. But every day Honolulu is "found" de- spite her isolation in the vastnesses of tlie Pa- cific, and every day people look upon the won- ders of those beautiful islands and marvel over nature's strange creations. Thousands come and go, and they speak as they pass, and they are glad that fate turned their steps Hawaii- ward, for Hawaii has much to show to the traveler who loves to look upon nature's beau- ties and her wonders. I have but one thing to be particularly dis- tressed about since my return. I am distrust- ed by my fellow citizens. At a I^otary club meeting a few evenings ago, one of my erst- while friends, one whom I had always trusted and one whom I had thought believed in me WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 267 arose before our fellow members in the club and cliallen,^-e(l my pretentions to having made the journey to the Hawaiian Islands. He expressed the belief that 1 had gone no farther west in my travels than Kansas City, and that all I had written I had surreptitiously culled from library books. He charged that what I have said, I have not said; that what I have seen I have not seen; that what I have heard I have not heard, and what I have written I have not written. He branded me as an imposter before my fellow members of this club and there the matter stands today, excepting that there are some friends, some true friends,- who come to me once in a while and tell me that they believe that I was farther away from home than just to Kan- sas City and that I did see what I claim to have seen. My final declaration here is that I did go to Hawaii and that I went with as fine a bunch of people as it has ever been my pleas- ure to be associated with and I know that if need be I can call upon several of the delegates to the Press Congress of the World to certify to the truth of my claim to having been with them; for did I not smoke of their cigars and accept of their social courtesies with a liberal abandon that must have impressed my amiable personality upon them indelibly. Aloha, till we meet again. 268 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS DELEGATES AND GUESTS In Attendaiue at World's Press Congiess, Honolulu, Hawaii, T., Oct. 10 to Nov. 2, 1921 Agee, Mrs. Hamilton P. (Fanny Heaslip Lea, pen name), short story writer, 226 Oahu Ave., Honolulu T. H. — Delegate Allen, Mrs. Henry J.. Beacon, Wichita, Kansas (tempor- ary address: Topeka, Kansas) — ^Delegate Allen, Riley H., Star-Bulletin, Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate Bailey, H. U.. Republican, Princeton Illinois — Delegate Bailey Mrs. H. U., Princeton, Illinois — Guest Beteta, Virgilia Rodrigues, Spanish Press Association, Central American Press Association, Guatemala City, Gautemala (Temporary address: Waldorf Astoria, New York City) — Delegate Blain, Thomas J., Daily Item, Port Chester, New York — Delegate Blain, Mrs. T. J. — Port Chester, New York — Guest Bowen, L. H., Linclon County Times, Brookhaven, Miss- issippi — Delegate Breede, Adam, Daily Tribune, Hastings, Nebraska — Delegate Bridgman. Herbert L., Standard Union, Brooklyn, N. Y. — Delegate Bronson, E. S., American, El Reno, Oklahoma — Delegate Brown, James Wright, Editor & Publisher. New York City — Delegate Brown Mrs. James W., New York City — Guest Bunker, F. F., Pan-Pacific Union, Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate Burney, Ivan T., Journal and Courier, Little Falls, N. Y — -Delegate Cain, J. Byron, News, Belle Plaine, Kansas — Delegate Canavan, Mrs. Nancy B., El Reno, Oklahoma — Guest Chien, P. Y., Social Welfare, Tientsin, China — Delegate Childress, E. H., Wayne County Press, Fairfield, Illinois — Delegate WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 269 Chung, Henry, Korea Review, 90 5 Continental Trust Hiiilding, Washington, D. C. Clark, H. J., Herald, Venice, California — Delegate Clark, Mrs. H. J., Venice, California — Guest Clarke, Mrs. Adna G., Kamehameha Boy's School, Hon- olulu, T. H. — Delegate Cody, Frank J., Daily Post-Herald, Hilo, Hawaii — Delegate Cohen, Mark, Star, Dunedin, New Zealand — 'Delegate Cohen, Sarah, Dunedin, New Zealand — Delegate Coutoupis Thales, Nea Ellas, Athens, Greece — Delegate Cross, A. A. Kentucky Press Association, Benton, Ken- tucky — Delegate Davies, Herbert Arthur, Austrialian Journalists Associa- tion, Melbourne, Australia — Delegate Dean, Mrs. S. Bobo, Metropolis, Miami, Florida — Delegate Dean, Miss Dorothy, Miami, Florida — Guest DeRackin, S. E., Evening Outlook, Santa Monica, Cal- ifornia — Delegate DeRackin, Mrs. S. E., Santa Monica, California — Guest Dotson, C. L., 420 Riverside Drive, New York City — Delegate Dow. B. C, Argus-Leader, Sioux Falls, South Dakota — Delegate Dow, Mrs. B. C, Sioux Falls, South Dakota — Guest Dunn, Andrew, Morning Bulletin, Rockhampton, Queens- land, Australia — Delegate Easton, William, Times, Dunedin, New Zealand — Del- egate Edgecombe, Frank O., Nebraska Signal, Geneva, Ne- braska — Delegate Edgecombe, Mrs. Frank O., Geneva, Nebraska — Guest Elder. Orville, Evening Journal, Washington, Iowa — • Delegate Evans, Miss Margaret, 520 Menzies St., Victoria, B. C. Delegate Fogg, Charles H., Times. Houlton, Maine — Delegate Fogg, Mrs. Charles H., Houlton, Maine — Guest Ford, Alexander Hume, Pan-Pacific Union, Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate 270 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Farrington, Wallace R., Star-Bulletin, Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate Frear. Mrs. W. F., 1434 Punahou St.. Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate Frye, Miss Helen ]\I., League of American Pen Women, Washington, D. C. — Guest Glass, Frank P., American Newspaper Publishers Asso- ciation, Birmingham, Alabama — Delegate Glass, Mrs. Frank P., 2030 Quinlon, Birmingham, Ala- bama — Guest Glass, Frank P. Jr.. World, New York City — Delegate Glass. Mrs. Frank P. Jr., New York City — Guest Goldthwaite. S. G., News-Republican, Boone, Iowa — Delegate Goldthwaite, Mrs. S. G., Boone, Iowa — Guest Gordon, Marshall, Missouri Press Association, Columbia, Missouri — Delegate Gordon, Mrs. Marshall, Columbia, Missouri — Guest Gresson. W. D., Miami Republican, Paola, Kansas — Delegate Grisson, Miss Maybel Louise, Michigan Women's Press Association, Grand Ledge, Michigan — Delegate Hadley, Charles C, Kennett News and Advertiser, Ken- nett Square, Pennsylvania — Delegate Hadley, Mrs. Charles C, Kennett Square, Pennsylvania — Guest Hale, H. B., Gazette, East Hartford, Connecticut — • Delegate Hale, Mrs. H. B.. East Hartford, Connecticut — Guest Harris, Mrs. Ralph A., Herald, Ottawa, Kansas — Delegate Heenan, David, Jr., 250 Kaiulaui Avenue, Honolulu, T. H. — .Delegate Herrick, John P., Boliver Breeze, Olean, New York — ■ Delegate Herrick, Mrs. John P.. Olean, New York — Guest Hersey, Miss Mary S., Milton, Massachusetts — Guest Hodges, W. R., Herald-Dispatch, Sleepy Eye, Minnesota - — Delegate Hornaday, William D.. School of Journalism, University of Texas, Austin, Texas — Delegate Hsu, Jabin. China Press, Shanghai, China — Delegate WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 271 lies, Harry, Southwest Builder and Contractor, Los Angeles, California — JJelee;ate Innes, Guy, Herald, Melbourne, Australia — Delegate Innes, Mrs. Guy, Melbourne, Australia — Delegate Johnston, F. H., Review, Herniosa Beach, California — Delegate Johnston, Mrs. F. H., Hermosa Beach California — Guest Johnston, Miss W. Valeria, Hermosa Beach, California — Delegate Junkin. J. E., National Editorial Association, Miami, Florida — Delegate Junkin, Mrs. J. E., Miami, Florida — Guest Kelly, Eugene, Tribune, Sioux City, Iowa — Delegate Kelly, Mrs. Eugene, Sioux City, Iowa — Guest Kern, Frank L., Worth While Magazine, 1021 S. Ber- endO' Street, Los Angeles, California — Delegate Kettle, William R., Evening Star. Greymouth, New Zealand — Delegate Kettle, Mrs. W. R., Greymouth, New Zealand — Guest Kettle, Miss Vioka, Greymouth, New Zealand — Guest Kline, Gardiner, Evening Recorder, Amsterdam, New York — Delegate Kessell, John Henry, Gladstone Observer, Queensland, Australia — Delegate Kessell, Mrs. J. H.. Gladstone, Queensland, Australia — Guest Kim, Dong-sung, Dong-a Daily, Seoul, Korea — Delegate Klock, Jay E., Daily Freeman, Kinston, N. Y. Kriegesman, George Wm., News-Times Webster Groves, Missouri — Delegate Langley, Doris H., Herald. Tippecanoe City, Ohio — Delegate Lazo, Augustin, Havana Reporters Association, Herald of Cuba, Havana, Cuba — Delegate LeFavour, Mrs. Helen, Amsterdam, New York — Guest Logan, Daniel, National Magazine. Boston, Massachus- ettes — Delegate Lawson, Col. Edward Frederick, Daily Telegraph, Lon- don, England — Delegate Lawson, Mrs. E. P., London, England — Guest Lennon, Mrs. C. W., Sioux City, Iowa — Guest 272 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Mayrand, Oswald, LaPresse, Montreal, Canada — Delegate Medary. Edgar F., Democrat, Waukon. Iowa — Delegate Mezquida, Mrs. Anna Blake, League of American Pen women, 969 Pine St., San Francisco, California — Delegate McCullough, William. Thames Star, Thames, Auckland. New Zealand — Delegate Mills, Frank M., On the Cars, Sioux Falls, South Dakota — ^Delegate Mills, Mrs. Frank M., Sioux Falls, South Dakota — Guest Mitchell, Miss Frances C, Centralia (Missouri) Courier, Columbia, Missouri — Delegate Morris, John R., Japan Advertiser, Tokyo. Japan — Delegate McAdams, Mrs. A. G., Dallas. Texas — Guest McClatchy, V. S. Bee, Sacramento, California — Delegate McClatchy, Mrs. V. S., Sacramento, California — Guest McKeown, Mrs. Lillian, Sun and Evening Telegram, San Bernardino, California — Delegate McMaster, C. H., Tribune, Galveston, Texas — Delegate McMaster, Mrs. C. H., Galveston, Texas — Guest Nevin C. E., Advocate, Laurel. Nebraska — Delegate Nolen, Miss Anna E. News, Monroe City, Missouri — Delegate Nieva, Gregorio, Philippine Review, Manila, Philippine Islands — Delegate Orcutt, Reginald W., Linotype Bulletin, 1219 Madison Ave., New York City — Delegate Orcutt, Mrs. Reginald W., New York City — Guest Patton, H. W.. Special Writer, Hoquiam, Washington — Delegate Perry, Miss Eugenie, Canadian Women's Press Club, Victoria, B. C. — Delegate Petrie, Thomas, South China Morning Post, Hongkong, China — Delegate Petrie, Mrs. Thomas, Hongkong, China — Guest Pierce, Henry Douglas. Vinton-Pierce Bldg., Indianap- olis, Indiana — Delegate Powell, H. J., Journal, Coffeyville, Kansas — Delegate Powell, Mrs. H. J., Coffeyville, Kansas — Guest WITH WORLD'S PRESS CONGRESS 273 Reed, Mi's. Eniina Livingston, Southern California Wom- en's Press Club, Los Angeles, California — Delegate Richardson, J. A. — Sunflower Tocsin, Indianola, Miss- issippi — Delegate Rhodes, Mrs. John F., Hutchinson, Kansas^Delegate Saxe, Ludvig, Verdens Gang, Christiania, Norway — Delegate Sugimura, K,, Ashai Shimbun, Tokyo, Japan — Delegate Schuler, Mrs. Maud, Gadsden, Alabama — Guest Shaw, Mrs. Mabel S., Evening Telegraph, Dixon, Illinois — Delegate Smith, C. Stanley, Evening Star, Dunedin, New Zealand — Delegate Smith, Mrs. C. Stanley, Dunedin, New Zealand — Guest Smith, William J., Daily Sun. AVaukegan, Illinois Soga, Y., Nippu Jiji, P. O. Box 897, Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate Southern, William Jr., Daily Examiner, Independence, Missouri — Delegate Southern, Miss Caroline, Daily Examiner, Independence, Missouri — Delegate Stone. John I., Honolulu Press Club, Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate Sturgis, H. S., Times, Neosho, Missouri — Delegate Sturgis, Mrs. H. S., Neosho. Missouri — Guest Temple, Mrs. Oda M., Republican, Mountain Home, Idaho Thorpe, Mrs. George C, Quarters A, Marine Barracks, Pearl Harbor, T. H. — Delegate Tong, Hollington K., North China Star, Peking, China — Delegate Thurston, L. A., Advertiser, Honolulu, T. H. — ^Delegate Townsend. Mrs. Georgina S., 5703 Victoria Ave., Los Angeles, California (President, Southern California Women's Press Club) — Delegate Traer, Mrs. Louise M., Eagle, Vinton, Iowa — Delegate Underbill, Edwin S., Leader, Corning, New York — Del- egate Wang, K. P.. Shun Pao, Shanghai, China — Delegate Wang, T. M., Shun Pao, Shanghai, China — Delegate 274 A TRIP TO THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Ward, Miss Etta I., Courier, Winchendon, Massachusetts — Delegate Warinner, Emily V., Managing Editor of The Friend, Honolulu Warren, Mrs. John Trenholm, Honolulu Press Club, Box 769. Honolulu, T. H. — Delegate Watts. Arretta L., Long Beach, California — Delegate Wilke, Will, Gazette, Gray Eagle, Minnesota — Delegate Wilke, Clyde S., Gazette. Gray Eagle Minnesota — Del- egate (Wilke's present office address, 7 43 Plymouth Building, Minneapolis. Minnesota) Williams, Walter, Columbia, Missouri — Delegate Wong, Hin, Star, Canton, China — Delegate Woodring, Mrs. Charlotte, Journal, Peru. Indiana — Delegate Woods, G. A., Boomer, El Reno, Oklahoma — Delegate Xanders, Mrs. Amanda L., League of American Pen women, York, Pennsylvania — Delegate Yamagata, I., Press, Seoulm, Korea — Delegate Zerbey, Maj. J. H. Jr., Republican, Pottsville, Penn- sylvania — Delegate Zerbey, Elizabeth, Pottsville, Pennsylvania — Guest Zerbey, Mildred, Pottsville, Pennsylvania — Guest Zumoto, Motosada, Herald of Asia, Tokyo, Japan u^. REGIONAL LIBRARY fACILITY A A 000154 409 7 '^l^'^iH^;:i::i''n=i5i;i!ii;:i^::;;i^^^