TliE CELLAI^ COCr StiCP 
 
 teOSO WVVOMINO 
 DETROIT, MICH. 48221 
 U.S.A.
 
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 A VISIT TO 
 STANLEY'S EEAE-GUAKD
 
 MR. H. M. STANLEY. 
 
 Front a photograph, I'y J . Thomson, 70a Cros-jenor Street, W.
 
 A VISIT TO 
 
 STANLEY'S REAE-GUAED 
 
 AT MAJOR BARTTELOT'S CAMP 
 ON THE ARUHWIMI 
 
 WITH 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF RIVER-LIFE ON THE CONGO 
 
 J. R. WERNER 
 
 engineer, late in the service of the etat 
 indf;pendant du Congo 
 
 WITH PORTRAITS AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS 
 
 EDINBURGH AND LONDON 
 
 MDCCCLXXXIX 
 
 All Rights reserved
 
 ^7 
 
 TO 
 
 THOSE FEIENDS IN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND, 
 
 WHO, SINCE MY RETURN HOME, 
 
 HAVE, BY THEIR KINDNESS AND HOSPITALITY, 
 
 AMPLY RECOMPENSED ME FOR THE TOILS AND HARDSHIPS 
 
 OF MY SOJOURN IN AFRICA, 
 
 THIS BOOK 
 
 IS DEDICATED, WITH SINCERE THANKS, 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 h
 
 PEEFACE. 
 
 The favourable reception accorded to the article 
 entitled "Major Barttelot's Camp on the Aruh- 
 wimi " (in ' Blackwood's Magazine ' for February 
 1889) by the press and the public generally, has 
 encouraged me to write out the full narrative of 
 how I first met the officers of Stanley's rear-guard, 
 and the circumstances which led to my visit to 
 Yambuya Camp, in the hope that it will prove of 
 equal interest to my readers. 
 
 As this volume is intended for the general public, 
 who, while taking an interest in African affairs, do 
 not care to wade through whole chapters of dry 
 statistics, I have, when speaking of such matters as 
 railways, &c., purposely introduced as few figures
 
 Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 as I could, and then restricted myself, as far as 
 possible, to round numbers. 
 
 The Arabs occupy, in Central Africa, during the 
 nineteenth century, very much the same position 
 as the Spaniards did in South America and the 
 West Indies during the seventeenth, and carry on 
 the same atrocities. History has in this case once 
 more strangely repeated herself; and the descrip- 
 tion given by Kingsley in ' Westward Ho ! ' of 
 the journey of Amy as Leigh and his men over the 
 Caraccas mountains and up the Orinoco, gives a 
 very fair notion of the difficulties of Stanley's last 
 journey. Stanley, however, had, if anything, a 
 worse country to traverse ; and his followers, being 
 natives of the Dark Continent, only added to his 
 perplexities. 
 
 Times are changed since the days of Elizabeth, 
 and men cannot go out against the Arabs as Queen 
 Bess's buccaneers did against the Spaniards of old ; 
 but I hope that, before long, the Arabs will be 
 taught, in one way or another, that the natives of 
 Africa were not created solely for the gratification 
 of their avarice and lust of gain. 
 
 I have to acknowledge with thanks the kindness
 
 PKEFACE. IX 
 
 of Sir Walter B. Barttelot, Bart., C.B., and of Mrs 
 Jameson, for allowing me the use of the photo- 
 graphs of Major Barttelot and Mr J. S. Jameson ; 
 also of Captain Coquilhat of the Belgian army, and 
 Mr A. J. Wauters, of the Institut National de 
 Geographic, Brussels, as well as of several other 
 friends who have assisted me with the sketches 
 and photographs utilised in my illustrations. 
 
 I cannot conclude without expressing my sincere 
 thanks to Mr William Blackwood, whose kindness 
 to me, when I was still an entire stranger to him, 
 in a distant land, I shall never forget. 
 
 J. E. WEENER. 
 
 April 20, 1889.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Micawber business — The Sao Thovi^—Down the Scheldt 
 —Passengers for the Congo — Lisbon — Madeira — S. Vincent 
 — Bolama — Principe — S. Thome — Shootmg excursion — 
 " Plenty big bird " — First sight of the Lower Guinea coast 
 — Banana Creek — Waiting for the Heron at Banana, . 1 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 l'eTAT INDEPENDANT DU CONGO. 
 
 The Congo State — Discovery of the Congo — Tuckey's expedi- 
 tion, 1816 — Livingstone discovers the Chambezi — Cameron 
 at Nyangwe — Stanley's explorations — The "Association 
 Internationale Africaine " — Stanley's two expeditions, 1879, 
 1884 — Sir Frederick Goldsmid at Vivi — Sir Francis de 
 Winton's governorship — Changes in the Administration — 
 Constitution of the Congo State — General survey of the 
 river, ...... .19 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 UP-COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 Departure from Banana — Porpoises — Boma — " La Chasse t\ 
 rAdministrateur-General '' — Dinner at the station — " Palm-
 
 Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 oil ruffianism " — Captain Coquilhat — Matadi — Vivi — Pre- 
 parations for the march — The " dark ways " of native 
 carriers — King Nozo's caravanserai — My first fever — Col- 
 lapse by the way — "A new fetish" — Lukungu — Carried 
 into Leopoldville — Dr Mense — Causes of fever — View from 
 Leopold Hill — The State steamers — How the Stanley was 
 repainted " after many days," . . 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BAXGALA. 
 
 Station-life at Leopoldville — Ngalyema and his neighbours — 
 Provision-supply at Leopoldville — Yarn of the champagne- 
 bottles — Climate and fevers — " Congo thirst " — The Stanley'' s 
 feed-pump — The Italian expedition — Departure oiA.I.A. — 
 Winds in the Congo canon — Scenery between Stanley Pool 
 and Kwamouth — Hospitality of the Kwamouth fathers — 
 The Mississippi pilot — Hippo-shooting — Death of Delatte — 
 Equator — Monotonous scenery — Bangala — Arrival of the 
 Stanley — Mata Bwyki, chief of Iboko — Dance and massanga- 
 drinking — Departure of the Stanley — My quarters in the 
 gun-room — A tropical thunderstorm — First house at Ban- 
 gala — Food-supply — The Ba-Ngala — Cannibalism, . . 60 
 
 CHAPTEE V. 
 
 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 News brought by the Stanley — History of Falls Station — 
 Treaty between Wester and the Arabs — Tippoo Tip — Mr 
 Deane wounded on his way up-river to take command — 
 Van Gele sent out, but invalided to Madeira — Deane goes 
 a second time — Contradictory nature of his orders — The 
 runaway slave — Station attacked — Deserters reach Ban- 
 gala — Palaver with the Ba-Ngala — We start to relieve 
 Deane — Diversity of sentiments among the people of Upoto 
 — Defective cartridges — Yambvmga — Captives restored — 
 War-drums — Orera's misfortunes — Traces of the slave- 
 raiders — The friendly natives of Yarukombe — Captain
 
 CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 Coquilhat's sufferings — Glimpse of Stanley Falls — The 
 Bakumu and their information — Dubois drowned — The 
 Station in ruins — The A.I.A. in a fix — We retreat — Samba 
 — Search for Deane — Deane safe at Yarukombe — Skirmish 
 at Yaporo — Attending the wounded — Deane's story — Re- 
 turn to Bangala — The Henry Reed — The fearfvil and won- 
 derful decrees of the Comite at Brussels — Departure for 
 Leopoldville — Coquilhat and Deane invalided home — 
 Samba's history, . . . . . .87 
 
 CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 EXPLORATION OP THE NGALA RIVER. 
 
 Overhauling the -4.7.^. — Captain Bayley at Nshassa —Begin- 
 ning of the rainy season — Start for Bangala — Dissection of 
 a hippo — Hostile natives — Orders to explore the Ngala — 
 The Oubangi-Welle — Position of Bangala Station — The 
 Oubangi and the Ngiri — Mobeka— Up the Ngala without 
 a guide — Mankula — Village built on piles — Terror of the 
 natives— Rapids — Hostilities with the Saibis — Return — 
 Affair of the hippo — Tornadoes — Arrival of the Stanley, . 128 
 
 CHAPTEE VII. 
 
 RIVER-LIFB IN AFRICA. 
 
 The missing Houssas from Falls Station — The Langa-Langa — 
 Ikolungu and its chief— Forest of gum-copal trees — H.M. 
 Ibanza of Mpeza — Epidemics in Central Africa — Palaver 
 at Upoto — Curious owls — Return to Bangala — Attacked 
 near Bokele — A desperate run — Cheapness of human life 
 on the Upper Congo — Bangala diversions " owre the 
 wine " — Lusengi and his news — Another night run — Burn- 
 ing the packing-cases — The Emin Relief Expedition, . 148 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 Stanley on the Congo — News from home — The unprincipled 
 Baruti and his awful fate— Stanley and the missionaries —
 
 XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 The Henry Reed seized to explore the Loika — A "real mean 
 river " — Chief of Upoto seized as a hostage — Fever — Ngal- 
 yema's cow — Leopoldville aj^ain — Animal life on the river 
 — Beauty of the Bateke country — ' Joyce ' — Reminiscences 
 of civilisation — Remarkable effects of home letters when 
 first opened — The hunters' camp on Long Island — Dualla 
 Island — Lukolela — My bull's-eye creates a sensation, . 172 
 
 CHAPTEIl IX. 
 
 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 Improvements at Bangala — State captives not yet liberated — 
 We start for Upoto — Fireworks ow naturel — Burning of 
 Upoto — Purchase of slaves at Mpeza — Down-river again — 
 Death on board the A.I.A. — Funeral at Lukolela — Shager- 
 strom's cocktail — The A.I.A. strikes a crocodile — The son 
 of Miyongo — Death of Van de velde — Ward arrives \vith 
 news from the Aruhwimi, ..... 197 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 MAJOR BARTTELOT's CAMP. 
 
 Start for Yambuya — A royal stowaway — War-drums — The 
 Basoko — Scenery of the Aruhwimi — Depredations of the 
 Arabs — Fine timber — Description of Major Barttelot's 
 camp — Salim bin Mahomed — ilanyemas — Salim sends his 
 ivory to the Falls — Natives living in canoes — Black *' mash- 
 ers " — Arabs at the Lomami — Large canoes — Raschid's house 
 — His account of the loss of Stanley Falls Station— Yaporo 
 once more — Yangambi, . . . . .216 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 KIXSI KATIXI. 
 
 Arab reports of a large lake — Major Barttelot comes on board 
 at Yalasula — Bwana Xzige — Present state of Wana Rusari 
 — Walk round the island — Possibility of passing Stanley 
 Falls by means of locks — The Bakumu and Wenya — The
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 crocodile and liippo — Return of Jameson and Tippoo Tip 
 — "Nubian blacking" — Tippoo keeping his accounts — 
 Salim bin Soudi — Her Majesty's birthday — A Manyema 
 child wounded — Tippoo Tip and his followers take passage 
 for Yambuya — A contretemps near Chioba Island — A snake 
 on board — Tippoo's method of securing a night's lodging — 
 Arrival of his secretary and garrison — Altering the loads — 
 Difficulties with the Manyemas — " Good-bye " — Leave Yam- 
 buya — Terrible news — The Holland — News of Deane's death 
 — Salim bin Mahomed arrives from Yambuya — The last of 
 Eansi Katini — I am taken ill — Ward comes up-river, . 247 
 
 CHAPTEE XIL 
 
 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 A wet journey to Equator — Kindness of Mr and Mrs Banks — 
 News of Major Barttelot's death — Down-country in a ham- 
 mock — Overtaken by Ward — Jameson dead ! — Back at Ma- 
 tadi — The " Devil's Caldron " — Ward catches the mail — 
 Down-river in a schooner — Congo State coinage — Improve- 
 ments at Boma — Two in a port-hole — Waiting for the Africa 
 — To Loanda — Homeward bound — Kotonou — On board the 
 Biafra — The Addah shipping-clerk's letter — Sierra Leone 
 — The Canaries — Quarantine at Madeira — Characteristics 
 of English scenery — Home once more ! . . ,281 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 Tippoo Tip — His first meeting with Livingstone — Cameron 
 visits his camp on the Lomami — Travels with Stanley' in 
 1876 — His dress and appearance — Deserts Stanley at Vinya 
 Njara — His own account of this transaction — Raids of 
 Karema and others near Stanley Falls — Tippoo arrives at 
 the Falls in November 1884 — Palaver with Van Gele — 
 Goes to Zanzibar — Deane attacked — Loss of the station — 
 The Arabs left to their own devices for a whole year — Tip- 
 poo returns as governor — His feelings towards the Germans 
 — Terms of his agreement with Stanley — He sees the weak-
 
 XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 ness of the Congo State — Advantages of the Arabs — Distrust 
 of Europeans — Tippoo sets to work to strengthen his position 
 and subdue the Bakumu — The original object of the State 
 defeated — Arabs on Lake Xyassa — The African Lakes Com- 
 pany — Futility of attempting to control African operations 
 from Europe — The sort of men required fur Central Africa 
 — What the Bakumu think of Deane, . . . 300 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CONCLUSION". 
 
 Inducements to slave-raids — Extinction of the elephant — Im- 
 proved transport the only effectual means of putting an end 
 to the slave-trade — Ivory bought by the Sanford Company 
 and the Congo State on the Upper Congo — Black and white 
 tusks — Different routes to the interior — The Nile Basin — 
 East coast route — The Tana river — Difficulties of the Congo 
 route — Railway past the Livingstone Cataracts — Proposed 
 bullock -road — African Lakes Company — Portuguese claims 
 — Shall Li\ingstoue's work be in vain ? . . .321 
 
 Index, ..... ... 331
 
 ILLUSTKATIONS. 
 
 MR H, M. STANLEY, 
 
 LEOPOLDVILLE, .... 
 
 MATA BWYKI, .... 
 
 FIRST EUROPEAN HOUSE AT BANGALA STATION, 
 
 MR WALTER DEANE, 
 
 MAP OF STANLEY FALLS DISTRICT, 
 
 CAPTAIN COQUILHAT, . 
 
 THE A.I.A. AT BANGALA, 
 
 WEAPONS OF VARIOUS TRIBES, 
 
 THE EN AVANT PASSING ONE PALM POINT, 
 
 MR HERBERT WARD, 
 
 TWO PALM POINT, 
 
 THE A.I.A. AGROUND ON A CROCODILE, 
 
 MAJOR E. M, BARTTELOT, 
 
 PLAN OF ARUHWIMI CAMP, . 
 
 KNIVES OF ARUHWIMI TRIBES, 
 
 MR J. S. JAMESON, 
 
 MY START FOR HOME, . 
 
 MAP OP CONGO AND ITS TRIBUTARIES, 
 
 . Frontispiece 
 
 To face page 34 
 
 II II 80 
 
 II II 84 
 
 II II 88 
 
 II II 106 
 
 II II 112 
 
 II II 134 
 
 II II 166 
 
 II II 188 
 
 II II 197 
 
 II II 208 
 
 II II 210 
 
 .1 II 216 
 
 II M 227 
 
 II II 240 
 
 I. 246 
 
 II It 282 
 
 At end
 
 A VISIT TO 
 STANLEY'S EEAE-GUAED. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 THE MICAWBER BUSINESS — THE SAO TJfOil/2i — DOWN THE SCHELDT — 
 PASSENGERS FOR THE CONGO— LISBON — MADEIRA — S. VINCENT — 
 BOLAMA — PRINCIP6— S. THOM^ — SHOOTING EXCURSION — " PLENTY 
 BIG BIRD" — FIRST SIGHT OF THE LOWER GUINEA COAST — 
 BANANA CREEK — WAITING FOR THE HERON AT BANANA. 
 
 Why I went to the Congo is a question which I 
 have often been asked since my return. I have 
 never yet been able to answer it to my own satis- 
 faction. Perhaps an innate desire for travel had 
 something to do with it ; and the opportunity 
 coming, as it did, just when I was free from other 
 engagements, gave a definite direction to my plans. 
 The circumstances which led to my going are as 
 follows : — 
 
 In the beginning of 1886, happening to be at 
 Antwerp — where I had passed some weeks, like Mr 
 
 A
 
 2 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 Micawber, waiting for something to turn up, in the 
 shape of a vacant post as engineer on board any of 
 the steamers frequenting that port, — I was one day 
 accosted by Mr W. Best (since dead), who asked if 
 I would go to the Congo. Upon my replying in 
 the affirmative, he said he would send my appli- 
 cation to Brussels, which he did. Accordingly, a 
 few days later, I received notice, through the agents 
 of the Etat du Congo, to present myself at their 
 offices in Brussels on April 8 th. It was past noon 
 on the 9th before I finally left Brussels, with my 
 contract signed, and written orders in my pocket 
 to sail from Antwerp on the 15th of the same month 
 in the Sao Thome, a Portuguese steamer running 
 from Hull, Antwerp, and Lisbon, to West African 
 ports. I was to proceed with her to Banana Town, 
 at the mouth of the Congo, and thence — by one 
 of the steamers belonging to the Congo State — to 
 Boma, some fifty miles up the river. 
 
 I reached Antwerp at 4 p.m., and punctually, at 
 5 P.M., left for London via Harwich, in one of the 
 Great Eastern Eailway Com2Dan5^'s splendid twin- 
 screw boats. I duly arrived in London on the 
 morning of Saturday, April 10th; and though I 
 had a pretty busy time of it getting everything 
 ready, managed to be 1)ack in Antwerp on the 
 14th, when, to my chagrin, I learnt that the de- 
 parture of the Sad Thome had, for various reasons, 
 been postponed till the 17th. I had thus hurried
 
 DEPARTUEE OF THE SAO THOME. 6 
 
 over, only to wait two days in, to my mind, the 
 most miserable of all earthly positions — viz., hav- 
 ing everything packed and ready, and nothing left 
 to do, yet unable to start, though in hourly expec- 
 tation of the summons — circumstances under which 
 it is impossible to turn one's mind to anything. I 
 was further annoyed by hearing that the SaZ 
 TJiome was to remain sixteen days at Lisbon ; and 
 reflecting that I had hurried ofi" without sajdng 
 good-bye to many of my friends, when — had I only 
 known it in time — I might have spent two more 
 weeks in England, and gone to Lisbon overland. 
 
 At last, on April 17th, all was ready, — the Sao 
 Thome was flying the blue-peter at the fore, and 
 the Congo State flag (a five-rayed gold star on a 
 blue ground) at the main ; while aft was the some- 
 what more intricately designed flag of Portugal. 
 This beinof the first boat of a regular service be- 
 tween Antwerp and the Congo, a great crowd col- 
 lected to see her off". Going on a falling tide, we 
 soon left the quay behind — past the docks and 
 forts, — past the dykes holding back the river from 
 the rich pasture-lands of Belgium, till, at Lille Fort, 
 we enter Holland, and the country becomes, if 
 possible, drearier and flatter than ever, while the 
 lofty spire of Antwerp Cathedral gradually vanishes 
 in the dim distance. It is a cold, cheerless day, 
 and I soon dive below, and ransack my baggage for 
 books and papers, but find myself too restless to
 
 4 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 read, and speedily go on deck again. We stop for a 
 few minutes at Flushing to land the river-pilot : 
 the place is hidden in a damp mist, and some clock 
 is just striking five, bringing to mind tantalising 
 visions of warm, cosy drawing-rooms, with comfort- 
 able chairs, and English ladies seated behind tea- 
 trays, ready to dispense the refreshing " bohea " to 
 casual callers. I go in search of a cup of " bohea " 
 for myself, and am served by a Portuguese steward 
 with a black composition which he calls cha — 
 whatever that may be : it certainly does not look 
 or taste like tea. In disgust, I adjourn to my 
 cabin, and, rolling myself ujd in my rug, fall asleep. 
 
 I awake with a dryness in my throat, and all the 
 other uneasy sensations that a man experiences 
 when he goes to sleep at improper times and sea- 
 sons. I find, when I grope my way on deck, that 
 the mist has cleared ofi" ; it is C[uite dark, and we 
 are just in the middle of the Straits of Dover — 
 the two lighthouses showing out boldly on either 
 side before backgrounds of smaller lights. It is, 
 however, too cold to stay on deck long ; so I soon 
 descend again, and, rolling into my bunk, sleep 
 soundly till morning. 
 
 I was aroused next day by the sudden stoppage 
 of the engines, and found we were lying off Vent- 
 nor. Isle of Wight, waiting for the boat to come 
 and take our pilot ashore. This was the last I saw 
 of England ; and, after we had weighed anchor, I
 
 BAY OF BISCAY. 5 
 
 began to turn my attention to my fellow-passen- 
 gers. Of these there were seven, all foreigners, 
 and all bound for the same destination as myself. 
 The Baron de Stein and Lieutenant Roget, two 
 Swedish captains, Cronstedt and Shagerstrom, and 
 one Belgian captain, Heuse, were going out, like 
 myself, in the service of the Etat du Congo. Of 
 the other three, Mr F. Hens was an artist, while 
 Messrs Linden and Demeuse were naturalists, going 
 out in search of orchids and other rarities. 
 
 The Bay, for a wonder, was calm. I say, for a 
 wonder, because of the general reputation of this 
 much-maligned piece of water. My experience of 
 it, however — and I have crossed it pretty often — 
 leads me to believe that it is no worse than anj^ 
 other part of the Atlantic. It was very misty till 
 the day we arrived at Lisbon, when it cleared, and 
 we had a splendid view of the beautiful castle of 
 Pena, Cintra, perched on the very top of a rocky 
 hill between Lisbon and the sea. 
 
 This was my first visit to Lisbon, and, my pre- 
 vious knowledge of that city being chiefly derived 
 from history, I was somewhat surprised to find that 
 the place whence Diaz and Yasco da Gama had 
 sailed to the discovery of the Cape of Storms was 
 more backward in regard to shipping accommoda- 
 tion than any newly developed port in Australia or 
 New Zealand. All the steamers had to lie out in 
 the river ; not a dock or pier was there — not even
 
 O ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 a quay with water enough alongside to have floated 
 the cockle-shell in which Columbus first crossed the 
 Atlantic. All ships Avhich required repainting had 
 to go to Cadiz in order to be dry-docked, unless, 
 like those of the Empreza Nacional (to which Com- 
 pany the Sad Thome belonged), they traded to 
 some better-developed port. The Sad Thome had 
 brought coal from Hull, which we had to discharge 
 here ; and we consequently spent a very enjoy- 
 able time among the coal-dust for the next ten 
 days. The coal being discharged, she had to take 
 in wine, — an improvement greatly appreciated by 
 the passengers, especially when the wine merchant 
 came on board, and invited us all over to his place 
 on the' south side of the Tagus. Accordingly, we 
 took our places, next day, on board a huge lighter, 
 — the sail w^as hoisted, and off we w^ent across the 
 sunny Tagus. We were duly received by our host 
 as w^e landed, and conducted round the grounds of 
 the King of Portugal's hunting-palace, and after- 
 wards through immense wine-vaults, w^hich were 
 beautifully cool — coming at last to a small court- 
 yard over which an awning had been placed to 
 keep out the sun. 
 
 Here we found a table ready laid for lunch, down 
 the centre of which stood a row of decanters con- 
 taining no less than tw^enty-one different kinds of 
 wine. After lunch we returned to the lighter, 
 whose crew had evidently also been lunching, for
 
 FESTIVITIES AT LISBON. 7 
 
 they were in a decidedly festive condition, and 
 crowded sail on the old tub till she fairly flew. 
 
 The great event in Lisbon at this time was the 
 approaching marriage of the Duke of Braganza to 
 the Princess Amelie of Orleans ; and the coming 
 event was celebrated almost daily by a tremendous 
 waste of gunpowTler, and nightly, by an equal ex- 
 penditure of gas and rockets. At last, on May 6th, 
 all was ready for departure, and heartily glad was I 
 to be off once more. Before starting, we received 
 a large addition to the passenger-list, mostly Por- 
 tuguese and French. Among them, however, I 
 presently discovered three or four English and 
 American missionaries bound for Benguela, en route 
 for Bihe, a place some 250 miles inland. Two of 
 these, Mr Fay and Mr Currie, had only lately been 
 married, and their young wives were accompanying 
 them to their far-away home. ]\Irs Currie, I have 
 since heard, soon succumbed to the climate, and 
 paid for her devotion with her life. Mrs Fay is 
 still, I believe and hope, carrying on her good work 
 among the natives of Angola. 
 
 Two others, Messrs Swan and Scott, intended to 
 proceed across Africa to a station in Ilala. Mr 
 Scott, however, was compelled by bad health to re- 
 main at Bihe ; and Mr Swan has disappeared into 
 the interior of the Dark Continent. 
 
 Madeira, where we arrived two days after leaving 
 Lisbon, has been so often described, that I will not
 
 8 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 weary the reader with a repetition of attempts to 
 depict the beauties of this ishand. No amount of 
 description can do it justice — it must be seen to be 
 appreciated, and not only seen but studied. The 
 first view is apt to be disappointing, especially if 
 one arrives at the glaring hour of noon, when the 
 fierce sun, reflected from every white wall and pane 
 of glass, casts a blinding glare over everything. 
 The finest view I had of the place was on my re- 
 turn voyage, when the steamer arrived and an- 
 chored in Funchal Bay by night. I was up and on 
 deck before sunrise, and was rewarded by seeing 
 the island in all the beauty of the changing tints of 
 dawn, and watching the sunlight as it first gilded 
 the hill-tops, and then gradually descended to the 
 pebbly beach in front of the town. 
 
 We only remained here some six hours, and then 
 turned southwards for the Cape de Verd Islands. 
 A four-days' run brought us to St Vincent, a barren 
 rocky island, without a single green leaf on it. 
 Even the drinking-water has to be brought over 
 from S. Antonio, a larger island close by, from 
 which come all the food-supplies of the town. The 
 only point in which St Vincent is superior to S. 
 Antonio is its possession of a sheltered harbour ; 
 but this outweighs all other considerations, and the 
 town has gradually grown up in spite of the dis- 
 advanta2;es of its situation. The barrenness of the 
 place, however, did not deter Captain Heuse, who
 
 BOLAMA AND BISSAO. 9 
 
 had been suffering from a slight attack of fever, 
 from landing — preferring to wait here a month for 
 the next steamer, rather than approach the swampy 
 shores of Gambia. 
 
 AVe only stopped here long enough to fill the 
 bunkers with coal, and then left for Santiago, 
 another of the Cape Verd Islands, and a much more 
 fertile one. Two days hence brought us to Bolama, 
 a Portuguese settlement on one of the low islands 
 at the mouth of the Eio Grande, about 120 miles 
 south of the Gambia river. Bolama is, I believe, 
 only the port of Bissao, which is on another island, 
 a little to the north ; but as the arm of the river 
 on which it stands has not water enough for large 
 steamers, the latter all go to Bolama. This place, 
 which, like all Portuguese settlements in Africa, is 
 very dirty, consists for the most part of native 
 huts, the greater number of the Portuguese living 
 at Bissao. There were, of course, a church and a 
 hospital, the latter pretty full. The whole place 
 had a dead-alive sort of look, as if doomed to ex- 
 tinction, and only waiting the inevitable end — the 
 only things which seemed to enjoy life being the 
 monkeys, j)arrots, and insects. I afterwards learnt 
 from one of the West African Telegraph Company's 
 agents that Bolama and Bissao are among the most 
 dreaded of AVest African stations, situated, as they 
 are, right in the centre of a group of low-lying 
 malarious islands.
 
 10 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 We left this place after several hours' delay; aud 
 passing out through the Bissagos islands Ijy a more 
 southerly channel than the one by which we had 
 entered, were soon tossing about in a westerly 
 gale which quickly disposed of the greater part of 
 the j^assengers. After the steaming atmosphere of 
 Bolama, the fresh Atlantic breeze was delightful ; 
 and Captain Shagerstrom and myself remained on 
 deck, in the lee of the companion, to enjoy it, till 
 the seas began to wash right over the jDoop, when 
 we disappeared below. A six days' run brought 
 us to Principe, or Prince's Island, in the Gulf of 
 Guinea — a regular little paradise to look at, with 
 its forest-covered peaks and little town nestling at 
 the far end of a long, deep bay, with steep hills 
 behind and on either side of it — a beautiful situation 
 indeed, had the island been in a temjDerate latitude, 
 instead of in something under T north. The town, 
 however, is close and hot as an oven : not a breath 
 of fresh air can reach it, unless the wind is due east, 
 and blowing straight into the deep bay, at the far 
 end of which stands the now half-deserted town. 
 To walk through the streets and see the decaying 
 houses and churches, one would think it some 
 ruined city, long forgotten and lately rediscovered, 
 instead of being, as it is, an old Portuguese 
 colony, which, under wiser management, might 
 have covered the whole island with flourishing 
 plantations of cocoa and coffee. The heat was
 
 OUR NATIVE GUIDES. 11 
 
 fearful ; and we were all greatly relieved when 
 evening arrived, and we steamed out of the narrow 
 canon where we had been lying all day. 
 
 Early next morning the Sao Thome dropped her 
 anchor opposite the town after which she was 
 named, and Demeuse and myself went ashore. 
 Demeuse took his gun, and we wandered off into 
 the woods, to see what was to be had in the way 
 of game. We strolled about for some time, seeing 
 nothing but a few small birds not worth wasting 
 powder and shot on. The forest is not so thick 
 as at Principe ; and there are plenty of cocoa-nut 
 palms and papaw-trees about, besides numerous 
 banana -plants. Not having provided ourselves 
 with lunch, we satisfied our hunger on some ripe 
 bananas which we came across, and were thinking 
 of returning, when we met a solitary native, who 
 was at last made to understand what we were after, 
 and undertook to show us some birds. Several 
 were soon pointed out, perched among the dense 
 foliage, and scarcely distinguishable by our un- 
 practised eyes ; and one or two of them had been 
 bagged when another native turned up, and a great 
 consultation ensued between the two blacks, both of 
 whom cast dubious glances at us as we stood watch- 
 ing them. At last they arrive at some decision, 
 and our guide, approaching us, gives us to under- 
 stand — helping out his meaning by signs — that the 
 other one knows where there is "plenty big bird —
 
 12 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 good for eat ;" and off they both go, down a narrow 
 glade. We follow them for nearly three-quarters 
 of an hour, through dense forest and across a small 
 stream or two, till we reach a little clearing in 
 which are two or three huts, with several women 
 and children standing about. A few words pass 
 between our guides and one of the women, and 
 then, making signs to us to follow quietly, the 
 former glide off down a narrow path leading to 
 a large grove of cocoa-nut trees at the bottom of a 
 valley, and we after them, in a state of subdued 
 excitement, expecting a turkey at the very least. 
 Suddenly one native stops, and looks cautiously 
 up, and then both stand still, pointing at the same 
 object. We both approach on tiptoe — Demeuse 
 with his gun to his shoulder taking aim upward : 
 all we can see is some huo-e black thincr in the 
 middle of a mass of palm-leaves. Demeuse, seeing 
 nothing definite, j)auses and whispers to me that 
 it must be a large bird, and that he had better put 
 in heavier shot. Fearful of losing our prey, I reply, 
 " Both barrels ;" and, as he still hesitates, looking 
 undecidedly at the huge shadowy outline, I add, 
 " Fire ! " Bang go both barrels at once — some- 
 thing drops — we stoop to examine it, and a shower 
 of soft lumps, seemingly of slimy mud, descends 
 on our heads and necks, and puts us to ignominious 
 flight. We are recalled by a delighted shout from 
 the natives, and burst into a roar of laughter as
 
 WE GET LEFT ASHORE. lo 
 
 they advance towards us liolding up several black 
 objects. Demeuse had fired into a cluster of sleeping 
 bats — creatures regarded by the natives as a great 
 delicacy. Demeuse attempted to explain his sudden 
 flight by remarking, in broken English, " I thought 
 I shot de debil ! " — which one of the natives em- 
 phasised by adding, " Good for eat ! " 
 
 Our two guides were now highly delighted at 
 the result of the stratagem, by which they had 
 procured some sixteen or seventeen large dog- 
 headed bats. Having no firearms, they do not, 
 under ordinary circumstances, find it easy to get 
 at these animals ; and they now walked straight 
 back to the huts in order to prepare their dinner. 
 Hungry as we were (it was now evening), Demeuse 
 and I declined to partake of this dainty meal, 
 and having regained the road, made our way 
 slowly back to the town, only to find that the 
 last boat had put off, and there was, apparently, 
 no means of regaining the steamer that night. 
 After walking about for some time, we found 
 that some of the steamer's crew were also still 
 ashore, and these, being Portuguese, soon man- 
 aged to discover some natives owning a large 
 canoe, who agreed to take us out for a con- 
 sideration. We therefore all crowded into the old 
 log, and set off just as the sun was disappearing 
 below the horizon. The canoe was very full, and 
 a heavy sea was running, but this did not deter
 
 14 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 the Portuguese sailors, who were in a decidedly 
 jovial condition, from quarrelling for the paddles ; 
 and we several times came so near being upset, 
 that Demeuse tied his gun to the canoe, and both 
 he and I loosened our boot-laces and coat-buttons 
 in readiness for a swim. As the bay swarmed 
 with sharks, this was not a pleasant prospect ; and 
 we were quite content, on reaching the ship in 
 safety, to postpone our ablutions for the present. 
 
 "We stayed one day longer at Sao Thome, and 
 then left for Banana. Cominsj on deck on the 
 morning of May 29th, I noticed that the sea 
 looked black as pitch. AVe were still nearly 100 
 miles out at sea, and the colour of the water, 
 which, astern, was lashed by the propeller into a 
 blackish-green foam, gave me anything but a 
 favourable impression of the country we were going 
 to, and I began to form mental pictures of low, 
 stinking mud-banks, and endless mangrove-swamps. 
 About noon we came in sight of a high, wooded 
 coast, with bright-looking sands, and reddish cliffs 
 showinsj here and there between them and the 
 dark-green trees sfbove. 
 
 A gap in the hills showed where the Congo 
 (which, from the colour of its water, we had 
 already designated the sewer) empties its huge 
 volume into the ocean. Nearly in the centre of the 
 gap — seemingly floating on the water — were some 
 white specks, which the captain of the Sad Thome
 
 END OF THE VOYAGE. 15 
 
 pointed out to me as the roofs of Banana Town. 
 As we approached, these specks resolved them- 
 selves into houses, still apparently standing on 
 the water, — for, beyond, we could see Banana 
 Creek, where two or three sailing-vessels were 
 lying at anchor. Nearer still, and we could see 
 the long sandy spit on which the houses stand, 
 and groves of young cocoa-nut palms — evidently 
 only lately planted, for they were not yet 
 as high as the houses. Then, one by one, the 
 different factories ran up their flags, and soon 
 the ensigns of England, France, Holland, Portugal, 
 and, last but not least, the Lone Star banner of 
 the Congo Free State, put a little life and colour 
 into the scene. We pause for a few minutes to 
 pick up a pilot, who has come out in a boat to 
 meet us, and then, taking a wide sweep to the 
 south to avoid Stella Bank, which, owing to the 
 exertions of the Dutch (in erecting groins to collect 
 the sand, without which precaution the whole point 
 would probably be swept away by the current), 
 is gradually forming round the extreme point 
 of the peninsula on which Banana stands, we 
 steam slowly into the creek, and drop our anchor 
 in front of the house from whose staff flies the 
 blue flag with the golden star. A boat carrying 
 this flag, and rowed by niggers dressed in imitation 
 of British blue-jackets, and singing " One more 
 river to cross," is soon alongside, followed by
 
 16 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 another, with a Has; whereon I make out the words 
 " Congo Hotel." I am presently introduced to Mr 
 Hakanson, the chief of Banana Station, and go 
 ashore in his boat. The State station at Banana 
 having been only recently established, there was 
 not room for all the new arrivals in the one house 
 as yet finished. Mr Hakanson therefore took me 
 to the English factory, and introduced me to Mr 
 Eraser,^ of the British Congo Company, who made 
 me very comfortable in his station for the two or 
 three days I remained at Banana. Why the place 
 should be called Banana is a question for future 
 generations to dispute about — for, when I landed 
 there, I could not find a single banana-plant in the 
 whole settlement. The whitewashed wooden houses 
 and stores and clean-swept courtyards of the English 
 and Dutch factories looked very refreshing, after 
 the dirty and dilapidated Portuguese towns at 
 which we had touched on the voyage out. The 
 heat, however, was very great, and the glare of 
 the sun on the white roofs awful, though a group 
 of young cocoa-nut palms at the Dutch factory 
 gave promise of future shade. 
 
 Next day, on going round to the Free State 
 station, I found that the Belgique, one of the State 
 steamers, was going up to Boma with the mails. 
 Hearing that she had formerly been the pleasure- 
 
 ^ ]\Ir Fraser died at Banana in August 1888, a few weeks before I 
 reached tlie coast on my way home.
 
 SAND-CRABS. 17 
 
 yacht of the King of the Belgians at Ostencl, I 
 walked down to the pier to have a look at her. 
 Lying alongside the pier, and loading bamboo, was 
 a dingy, dilapidated twin-screw boat of some 30 
 tons, decks an inch thick in dirt, and funnel all on 
 one side. Truly a pleasant prospect, I thought, if 
 I am doomed to spend my time out here in a boat 
 like this. She presently cast off, emitting a great 
 deal of noise and vast clouds of steam, managed 
 to get under way, and soon disappeared round 
 Boola Mbemba Point, on her voyage to Boma. 
 
 I was to wait for the arrival of the Heron, a 
 screw-steamer of 114 tons, now at Gaboon, whither 
 she had gone in order to have her bottom re- 
 painted, as there is no dry dock on the West 
 African coast ; but the tide at the Gaboon river has 
 sufficient rise and fall to leave a vessel like the 
 Heron high and dry, if she be drawn on to a sand- 
 bank at high water. 
 
 As the Heron was the largest steamer owned by 
 the Free State, I could only hope she might be in 
 a better state of cleanliness and repair than the 
 Belgique. She did not arrive for two days, which 
 I spent in lounging about the beach watching the 
 sand-crabs. They lie in the sun at the mouth of 
 their holes, into which they instantly disappear 
 when any one approaches ; and so timid are they 
 that even the least motion alarms them, and they 
 will vanish on the instant.
 
 18 ANTWERP TO BANANA. 
 
 In the next chapter, before proceeding with the 
 account of my journey up the river, I intend to 
 summarise very briefly the history of the State in 
 which I was to pass the next few years of my life. 
 As this may be found rather dry reading, I shall 
 make it as short as I can — and it can always be 
 skipped, if desirable.
 
 19 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 l'eTAT INDilPENDANT DU CONGO. 
 
 THE CONGO STATE — DISCOVERY OF THE CONGO — TUCKET'S EXPEDI- 
 TION, 1816 — LIVINGSTONE DISCOVERS THE CHAMBEZI — CAMERON 
 AT NYANGW^ — STANLEY'S EXPLORATIONS — THE "ASSOCIATION 
 INTERNATIONALE AFRICAINE " — STANLEY'S TWO EXPEDITIONS, 
 1879, 1884 — SIR FREDERICK GOLDSMID AT VIVI — SIR FRANCIS 
 DE WINTON's GOVERNORSHIP — CHANGES IN THE ADMINISTRATION 
 — CONSTITUTION OF THE CONGO STATE — GENERAL SURVEY OF 
 THE RIVER. 
 
 The Congo river, the raison dJetre of the Congo 
 Free State, was, until the beginning of the present 
 decade, nothing more than a name to the majority 
 of Europeans. Few, except members of geographi- 
 cal societies, or others who had some special interest 
 in the subject of African exploration, could have 
 definitely stated the course of the great river. 
 When Stanley returned from one of the most 
 extraordinary explorations on record — the tracing 
 of this river to the sea in 1877 — the Congo was, of 
 course, in every one's mouth ; but it was, like all 
 other sensations, gradually being forgotten, when 
 the general interest was suddenly revived by the
 
 20 l'eTAT INDEPENDANT DU CONGO. 
 
 news that the International African Association, 
 under the presidency of Leopold 11. , King of the 
 Belgians, had taken the country under its fostering 
 care, and was going to — ah ! that was the question. 
 What was the Association going to do ? Every- 
 thing was at first kept so quiet, that Stanley had 
 already been some time on the Congo before it 
 was generally known that he had gone to found a 
 Free State in Africa. Then ensued another brief 
 period of excitement about the Congo, which, how- 
 ever, soon died away ; and for two or three years 
 it was seldom noticed by the papers, except when 
 some new tributary was discovered, or some event 
 of extraordinary interest occurred. It was during 
 this period that a friend of the author's presented 
 himself at the Bureau de I'Etat Independant du 
 Congo, at Brussels, and offered his services as an 
 engineer, without even knowing where the Congo 
 was. Finding, on his arrival at Boma, that he was 
 appointed to a steamer on the upper river, and 
 would have to march some 235 miles before reach- 
 ing his destination, he would gladly have returned 
 home again ! 
 
 Once more — in 1886 — attention was drawn to 
 the Congo by the news that it was one of several 
 routes suggested for the expedition sent out to the 
 relief of Emin Pasha ; and the interest was kept 
 up when it became known that Stanley had finally 
 decided to go that way.
 
 SOURCE OF THE CONGO. 21 
 
 The mouth of the Congo was discovered in 1485 
 by Diego Cao, who, by setting up a pillar on the 
 southern side of the estuary, took possession in the 
 name of Portugal. The Portuguese have, in recent 
 times, made this fact the pretext for claiming the 
 whole of the coast between St Paul de Loanda and 
 the Congo mouth, — though they had never founded 
 any settlements in the northern part of this region. 
 
 For over three hundred years the river's course 
 above the falls of Yellala was utterly unknown. 
 It was supposed to come from the north-east : 
 there was even a theory — seriously supported as 
 lately as 1816 — that it was the lower course of the 
 Niger. Tuckey s expedition in that year did little 
 or nothing towards solving the problem, and its 
 disastrous results discouraged further attempts in 
 that direction. 
 
 In 1867, Livingstone, in the course of his last 
 exploring journey, discovered a large river flowing 
 westwards, called by the natives Chambezi, and 
 said to rise in the Chibale Hills, in the country of 
 Mambwe. Tracing the downward course of this 
 river, he found that it entered Lake Bangweolo, 
 and issuing thence, flowed north under the name 
 of Luapula, and passed through another lake, Moero. 
 Having ascertained this by personal observation, he 
 learned from native report that, still flowing north- 
 ward, it was joined by an important tributary, the 
 Lualaba, by which name — according to the curious
 
 22 l'etat indepexdant du coxgo. 
 
 African fashion of transferrins: to the main stream 
 the name of every affluent which enters it — it was 
 thenceforth known. He last saw this river at Ny- 
 angwe in Manyema, whence — as is well known — 
 he was forced to return to Ujiji. Convinced that 
 he had met with the upper course of the Nile 
 (though, as his diary shows, he was sometimes 
 assailed by doubts and suspicions that it might, 
 after all, turn out to be the Congo), he once more, 
 after his meeting with Stanley in 1872, left Ujiji, 
 with the intention of reaching Katanga by a cir- 
 cuitous course round the south of Lake Bangweolo, 
 striking its head-waters, and following it down to 
 the sea. But it was on this journey that death 
 overtook him, at Chitambo's, in Ilala. 
 
 Cameron, in his expedition across Africa, reached 
 the Lualaba near Nyangwe, August 2d, 1874, but 
 had to relinquish his plan of following it down, 
 owing to the impossibility of obtaining canoes. 
 Finding the altitude of this river at Nyangwe 
 to be less than that of the Nile at Gondokoro, he 
 came to the conclusion that, as it could not possi- 
 bly be the Nile, it must be the Congo. 
 
 The expedition which finally determined the 
 course of the great river left England August 15 th, 
 1874, under the command of H. M. Stanley. The 
 detailed history of this exploration may be read in 
 ' Through the Dark Continent.' On his return 
 home, in January 1878, Stanley was at once brought
 
 COMITE d'eTUDES DU HAUT CONGO. 23 
 
 into communication with the Kinoj of the Belo;ians 
 regarding the further opening up of the regions 
 whose existence was thus, as it were, for the first 
 time revealed to Europe. 
 
 It will be necessary here to state that, some time 
 previously, an association had been formed, under 
 the auspices of King Leopold 11. , for the purpose 
 of developing the hitherto almost untouched re- 
 sources of Africa, and finding new markets for 
 European produce in that little-known continent. 
 This was known as the " Association Internationale 
 Africaine." The news of Stanley's successful ex- 
 pedition turned the attention of this body to the 
 Congo basin, and the best means of gaining access 
 to it. In November 1878, Stanley w^as invited to 
 Brussels, to furnish information on the subject to 
 the representatives of the Association. It was then 
 resolved to raise a fund for the equipment of an 
 exploring expedition, which was to obtain accu- 
 rate statistics with regard to the resources of the 
 country ; to build three stations on ground leased 
 or purchased from the natives ; to launch a steamer 
 on the upper river, and to keep open a communi- 
 cation between the latter and the sea. The sub- 
 scribers to this fund were called the Comite d'Etudes 
 du Haut Congo, and included in their number repre- 
 sentatives of the English, French, Belgian, Dutch, 
 and American nations. 
 
 Stanley, on being intrusted with the direction of
 
 24 l'etat independant du coxgo. 
 
 this enterprise, proceeded to Zanzibar to enlist 
 native workmen, and, returning by way of the Red 
 Sea and Mediterranean, reached Banana in the 
 Albion, August 14th, 1879. 
 
 The steamers — which had been brought from 
 Europe in portable sections — having been put to- 
 gether, proceeded up the river to Boma, and thence 
 to Vivi, where the first station was established. 
 Between February 21st, 1880, and the same date in 
 the following year, a waggon-track was made from 
 Vivi to Isangila, past the first half of the cataract 
 region, and the two steamers Royal and En Avant 
 conveyed along it, wdth immense labour and diffi- 
 culty. The boats were then launched, and carried 
 the expedition, by instalments, along the navigable 
 reach of water between Isangila and Manyanga. 
 At the latter place Stanley was prostrated by a 
 severe attack of fever, which nearly proved fatal, 
 but recovered, and pushed on to reconnoitre as far 
 as Stanley Pool, which he reached about the end of 
 July. Here he found a representative of M. de 
 Brazza, who claimed that his master had taken 
 possession of the northern bank in the name of the 
 French nation, having, it was alleged, bought the 
 land from a chief named Makoko. Stanley, after 
 entering into friendly negotiations with several 
 chiefs — among whom was Ngalyema of Ntamo — 
 returned for one of the steamers (the other was left 
 at Manyanga), and completed the transit by De-
 
 DR PESCHUEL-LOESCHE. 25 
 
 cember 3cl. After many difficulties, a definite un- 
 derstanding with the natives was at last arrived at, 
 and the station of Leopold ville founded at Ntamo, 
 
 In April 1882, after building a house, and laying 
 out gardens, &c., Stanley started for the Upper 
 Congo in the En Avant, leaving the station in 
 charge of Lieutenant Harou. On this occasion 
 he only proceeded as far as Mswata, where he 
 established a station, and then returned; but soon 
 afterwards, starting once more, he passed Mswata, 
 and ascending the great eastern tributary, the 
 Kwa, discovered Lake Leopold IL After circum- 
 navigating this lake, or rather marsh, he was taken 
 ill, and compelled to return to Europe, reaching 
 Vivi, on his way to the coast, July 8th, 1882. 
 
 Here he found Dr Peschuel-Loesche, a German 
 traveller, who had come out some months before, 
 ostensibly to explore the Loango district, but in 
 reality with sealed orders empowering him to take 
 Stanley's place, should the latter be disabled by 
 accident or illness. He was thus able to leave 
 matters in Dr Loesche's hands, and depart for 
 Europe with a mind at ease. 
 
 The Comite d'Etudes had, in the meantime, 
 transferred its work and authority to the Com- 
 mittee of the " Association Internationale du 
 Congo." 
 
 On meeting this committee, in October 1882, 
 Stanley represented to them that the Congo terri-
 
 26 l'eTAT IND]£pENDANT DU CONGO. 
 
 tory in its present condition was utterly valueless, 
 and must remain so, unless a railway were con- 
 structed through the Cataract region, from Vivi 
 to Stanley Pool. He further pointed out that this 
 railway could only be made remunerative if the 
 country were organised as an independent state 
 under European management, so as to secure to 
 traders and settlers the advantage of a permanent 
 and stable government. 
 
 He once more started for the Congo, in Novem- 
 ber 1882, on the understanding that a competent 
 oflScial should be sent out to represent him on 
 the lower river, during his absence in the inte- 
 rior. Sir Frederick Goldsmid was accordingly 
 despatched in this capacity, but not till some 
 time had elapsed. 
 
 Meanwhile, on returning to Africa, Stanley 
 found that the work had nearly gone to pieces 
 in his absence. Dr Peschuel - Loesche, meeting 
 with difficulties in the discharge of his duties, 
 had thrown up his post, and returned to Europe ; 
 while, of the subordinate officers, scarcely one had 
 been managing matters in a satisfactory way. To 
 reorganise the stations under competent chiefs 
 was the work of some time ; and it was not till 
 May 1883 that he was able to leave Leopoldville, 
 in order to complete the exploration of the upper 
 river. On this trip he ascended as far as the 
 Mohindu (or Buruki), and founded Equator Sta-
 
 THE COMMAND OFFERED TO GORDON. 27 
 
 tion at its moutli. Eeturuing to Stanley Pool, lie 
 started on his final voyage of exploration, passed 
 the Aruhwimi, where he came upon the traces 
 of Arab slave-raiders, and reached Stanley Falls, 
 December 1st, 1883. Here a station was founded 
 on the island of Wana Eusari, and left in charge 
 of the Scotch engineer, Binnie. 
 
 Sir Frederick Goldsmid had arrived at Vivi in 
 the course of the year 1883, and had — besides 
 efiecting a great improvement in that station — 
 made an inspection of the country as far as 
 Isangila. But, before the end of the year, he 
 returned to Europe ; and Stanley, arriving at Vivi 
 in April 1884, found everything in a deplorable 
 state of neglect. 
 
 At the beginning of this year, the late General 
 Gordon was asked by King Leopold to undertake 
 the oflfice of Governor-General of the new State. 
 He consented, and had already made arrangements 
 for leaving, when his plans were entirely changed by 
 the ill-fated request of the British Government that 
 he should attempt the pacification of the Soudan. 
 
 The post was then ofi"ered to Colonel Sir Francis 
 De Winton, who reached Vivi in June 1884. 
 Stanley, who had remained on the Congo till the 
 arrival of the new Governor, then returned to 
 Europe, and did not again visit Africa till 1887, 
 when he went out in command of the Emin Pasha 
 Relief Expedition.
 
 28 l'etat ixdependant du congo. 
 
 At the Berlin Conference, held in 1884-85, the 
 International Association of the Congo had its 
 boundaries and its rights as a sovereign state 
 clearly defined, and its flag was formally recognised 
 by the principal European Powers. 
 
 Sir Francis De AVinton remained in office as 
 Administrateur-General till February 1886, when 
 he returned to England, leaving the Vice-Adminis- 
 trateur- General, M. Camille Janssen, in charge. 
 It was about this time that a change took place 
 in the management of the State — the details of 
 which are as yet but imperfectly known to out- 
 siders — by which it was transformed from the 
 " International Association of the Congo " into 
 the " Etat Independant du Congo," which is en- 
 tirely under Belgian control. Since that time all 
 the responsible posts in the State have been filled 
 by Belgian officials — mostly lieutenants in the 
 army. In September 1886, M. Janssen was 
 promoted, by royal decree, to the full rank of 
 Administrateur-General — a title which was, in April 
 1887, exchanged for that of Governor-General. In 
 February 1888, M. Ledeganck went out to Boma 
 with the appointment of Yice-Governor-General — 
 M. Janssen returning to Brussels, where he suc- 
 ceeded to the duties of General Strauch, who, ever 
 since the founding of the Free State, had been at 
 the head of its European administration, and 
 retired from office in July II
 
 GOVERNMENT OF THE CONGO STATE. 29 
 
 At present the constitution of the Etat Incle- 
 pendant is somewhat as follows : Its head is the 
 Kinor of the Belo-ians, with the title of " Roi 
 Souverain"; but the executive power is vested in 
 the Governor-General (resident at Boma), subject 
 to the instructions of the Committee at Brussels, 
 and assisted by an inspector-general, a secretary- 
 general, and one or more directors, all nominated 
 by the king. He presides over a council [Comite 
 consiiltatif), composed, besides the officials just 
 mentioned, of the " Juge d'Appel," the " Conserva- 
 teur des titres fonciers," and a certain number of 
 members — not exceeding five — to be apjDointed by 
 himself. 
 
 The State is divided into eleven districts : 
 Banana, Boma, Matadi, Cataracts, Stanley Pool, 
 Kassai, Equator, Oubangi- Welle, Aruhwimi-Welle, 
 Stanley Falls, and Lualaba. In each of these a 
 Commissaire de District represents the central 
 administration. 
 
 The Governor-General's edicts have the force of 
 law; and he is even empowered, in case of urgency, 
 to suspend a royal decree by proclamation. 
 
 Having thus brought down the history of the 
 Free State to the present day, I will conclude this 
 chapter by a short general survey of the river, 
 which — in conjunction with the map — will help 
 to make the subsequent narrative clearer. 
 
 The course of the Luapula (here called Luvwa),
 
 30 l'eTAT INDEPENDANT DU CONGO. 
 
 after leaving Lake Moero, seems to be about due 
 north. It is then joined by the Luahaba (or 
 Kamolondo), coming from the south-west. This 
 river — heard of, but not seen, by Livingstone, 
 and called by him Young's River — has its sources, 
 according to Capello and Ivens, in Katanga, about 
 8° south, and is by some authorities looked upon 
 as the main stream of the Congo. After the 
 confluence the river enters the unexplored Lake 
 Lanji, and thence flows, roughly speaking, first in 
 a north-west direction past the Arab settlement 
 of Nyangwe, and then due north to the equator, 
 where it throws itself over the seven cataracts of 
 Stanley Falls. North of the equator it makes a 
 great bend, flowinor westward and then south- 
 westward, and crossing the Line again in long. 
 18° E. For about a mile below Stanley Falls the 
 river flows between high banks : it then enters a 
 large plain, some 800 miles in extent, the width of 
 its bed varying from 2 J to 5 miles. It is so full 
 of islands, that only at three or four points is there 
 an uninterrupted view from bank to bank. The 
 misleading statement (without mention of the 
 islands) that both banks are seldom visible at 
 the same time, has given rise to mistaken and 
 exaggerated ideas of the size of the river. This great 
 plain is covered for the most part wdth dense tropi- 
 cal jungle, abounding in rare and valuable forms 
 of plant-life. At Iboko, on the right bank (in
 
 ENGLISH AND FRENCH MISSION STATIONS. 31 
 
 lat. 2° N., long. 19° E.), is the station of Ban- 
 gala (a corruption of Ba-Ngala, the name of a 
 tribe inhabiting Iboko and the surrounding coun- 
 try). At the equator was formerly another State 
 station (Equateurville), but it has been transferred 
 to the Sanford Trading Company. Here is also a 
 station belonging to the American Baptist Mis- 
 sionary Union ; while at Lukolela, about 100 miles 
 lower down, the English Baptist missionaries have 
 established themselves. Before reaching Lukolela 
 the Congo is joined by the Oubangi, the largest 
 and most important of its tributaries, now shown 
 to be identical with the Welle-Makua, explored by 
 Dr Junker. About 150 miles below Lukolela the 
 level banks rise into hills, and the stream becomes 
 narrower, while its volume is increased by the 
 influx of the Lawson river, and the Kwa, or 
 Kassai, which is nearly as large as the main 
 stream. Near the mouth of the Kwa were two 
 French Roman Catholic mission - stations, since 
 withdrawn — one belonging to the Societe d' Alger, 
 the other to the Societe du St-Esprit. From here 
 to Stanley Pool the hills, covered either with forest 
 or tall grass, increase in height till they are almost 
 entitled to the name of mountains, and at the same 
 time encroach upon the river-bed till, just before 
 reaching Stanley Pool, it is so narrow that the 
 current seems to have been, as it were, turned on 
 edge to pass through it, and runs like a mill-race.
 
 32 l'etat independaxt du congo. 
 
 Suddenly the ranges retreat on either side, and, 
 curvino; round to rio;ht and left, enclose the 
 beautiful sheet of water known as Stanley Pool. 
 Close to the entrance of the Pool, on the left (or 
 south-east bank), is Kimpopo, where a Methodist 
 mission has lately taken up its quarters ; and at the 
 other end, just at the point where the river leaves 
 it, is Nshassa, with the stations of the Sanford 
 Exploring Expedition and the Baptist Missionary 
 Society. Opposite Nshassa, on the north bank, 
 is the French port of Brazzaville. 
 
 Rounding Kallina Point, we enter the Xtamo 
 rapids, and come in view of Leopoldville, standing 
 midway on the slope of Mount Leopold. Here the 
 river enters upon a series of cataracts, which ends 
 at Manyanga ; then follows a reach of 88 miles, 
 which can be navigated with tolerable facility; and 
 then the Congo flings itself over the last terrace of 
 the Central African table-land, the top of which is 
 at Isangila, and the bottom at Vivi. At Vivi, the 
 narrow canon through which the pent-up waters 
 have been flowing begins to open out a little, but 
 it does not gain much in width till Boma is reached. 
 The magnificent estuary by which the Congo dis- 
 charges itself into the sea is a noticeable point, 
 when contrasted with the deltas characteristic of 
 the other three great African rivers.
 
 33 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM BANANA — PORPOISES — BOMA — " LA CHASSE 
 A l'aDMINISTRATEUR - G^N^RAL " — DINNER AT THE STATION — 
 " PALM-OIL ruffianism" — CAPTAIN COQUILHAT — MATADI — VIVI 
 — PREPARATIONS FOR THE MARCH — THE " DARK WAYS " OF 
 NATIVE CARRIERS — KING NOZO'S CARAVANSERAI — MY FIRST 
 FEVER — COLLAPSE BY THE WAY — "A NEW FETISH" — LUKUN6U 
 — CARRIED INTO L^OPOLDVILLE— DR MENSE — CAUSES OF FEVER 
 — VIEW FROM LEOPOLD HILL — THE STATE STEAMERS— HOW THE 
 STANLEY WAS REPAINTED "AFTER MANY DAYS." 
 
 On the evening of May 31st, the Heron arrived 
 from Gaboon, and early the next day I went on 
 board, and started up the Congo. As we steamed 
 out of Banana Creek and round Boola Mbemba 
 Point, a shoal of porpoises rose almost under our 
 bows. Out came our rifles, and for the next half- 
 hour we had pretty sharp practice at the creatures, 
 which kept alongside, evidently enjoying the fun 
 as much as we did. A porpoise is, if anything, 
 rather more difficult to hit than a sand-crab ; and 
 although there w^ere four or five of us firing away 
 
 c
 
 34: UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 at the same time, we did not succeed in bagging 
 one. Several hours' steaming past low, gloomy- 
 looking mangrove-swamps brought us to Kissanga, 
 on the south bank, where we stopped to deliver one 
 letter to some men in a canoe who came off from 
 the shore ; and then, crossing to Ponta da Lenha, 
 on the north bank, we left a more respectable mail 
 for the Dutch and Portuguese factories at this place. 
 After leaving it, the thick forest gradually gave 
 place to grassy plains ; and after passing the beau- 
 tiful island of Matebba, with its feathery palm- 
 trees, we came in sight of Boma, wdiere we arrived 
 about 6 P.M. 
 
 I had scarcely landed when I was told that the 
 Administrator- General wanted to see me at the 
 Sanatorium — a building originally put up as a 
 hospital, but now used as the headquarters of the 
 Administrator-General and his staff. It stands on 
 the top of a plateau a mile and a half from the 
 river. On asking how to reach it, I was told to 
 follow the " main road." The biggest road I could 
 see was a footpath through the grass, which I accord- 
 ingly followed — and soon found out what a main 
 road is in this country, by losing myself among the 
 tall grass, and finally falling into what seemed a 
 bottomless pit. I landed on the sand and stones 
 at the bottom of a dry water-course, covered with 
 dirt, and with my trousers split right across the 
 back — truly a nice state in which to appear before
 
 FIRST NIGHT AT BOM A. 35 
 
 the Administrator ! It was now quite dark, and it 
 took me about half an hour to find my way out of 
 this muddle — when, having got hold of a native to 
 show me the main road, I at last found the Sana- 
 torium. Here I saw the Administrator-General, 
 who, after laughing at the state I was in, gave me 
 instructions to proceed by the first boat to Vivi, 
 where I was to be fitted out wdth tent, &c., for the 
 journey to Leopold ville, as I had been appointed to 
 a steamer on the Upper Congo. 
 
 I got back to the station somehow, and found 
 myself just in time for dinner, wdiich consisted 
 chiefly of goat-soup, goat's meat, and (tinned) pota- 
 toes. After dinner, Portuguese wine and Schiedam 
 (Dutch trade -gin) were brought in ; and it was 
 3 A.M. before the party finally broke up. I was 
 shown a room and a mattress, w^hich, as the station 
 was very full, I was to share with another gentle- 
 man. ]\Iy baggage was all on board the Heron. 
 I flung off" my hat and boots, and laid myself down 
 on the mattress, but, alas ! not to sleep ; for the 
 mosquitoes, taking advantage of the absence of my 
 mosquito-curtain, pretty nearly ate me up. When 
 the bell rang at 5 a.m., I was only too glad to get 
 up, wash, and go for a constitutional before break- 
 fast, w^hich took place at six. 
 
 The stations on the Lower Congo were at this 
 time in a state of lawlessness and confusion worthy 
 of a Far-West mining-camp in the " days of 'Forty-
 
 36 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 
 
 nine." The headquarters of the Government were 
 just being transferred from Vivi to Boma, and the 
 consequent disorganisation was taken advantage of 
 by those restless spirits who always follow in the 
 wake of new enterprises, and who, as soon as 
 discipline is relaxed, immediately break out into 
 all sorts of excesses, leading others after them. 
 Collected here, on the 110 miles of the Lower 
 Congo, in one of the worst climates of the whole 
 world, were some 200 Europeans, most of them 
 adventurers, capable, if well managed, of accom- 
 plishing any enterprise under the sun. Many of 
 them had arrived while Stanley was away on the 
 upper river, and, finding no one with sufficient 
 authority to set them to work and keep them at 
 it, had at once followed the dictates of their own 
 sweet wills, and proceeded to get into mischief. 
 The result has been graphically described by 
 Stanley in his work, ' The Congo and the Found- 
 ing of its Free State,' and need not be repeated 
 here. By the time of Sir Francis De AVinton's 
 arrival, Stanley had restored something like order ; 
 and while Sir Francis remained, things surely if 
 slowly improved. Then came the transfer of head- 
 quarters, in the midst of which Sir Francis went 
 home, and mischief once more became rampant. 
 
 I had, before coming to the Congo, travelled in 
 various parts of the globe, but nowhere had I 
 seen such hard drinking;, nioht after nicrht, as that
 
 A RUNAWAY STEAMER. 37 
 
 which went on at the Lower Congo stations about 
 this time. It was not the bottle that was passed 
 round, but whole cases were ordered in by the man 
 who called for drinks, and every one present helped 
 himself to as many bottles as he chose. When a 
 steamer left for Vivi or Banana, it frequently 
 happened that the only provision taken for the 
 day by the captain and engineer was a demijohn 
 of rum, and, on the boat's arrival at her destina- 
 tion, the said captain and engineer would be the 
 first men to go ashore, leaving her to be tied up by 
 the native crew. On one occasion, a steamer lying 
 at anchor ojff Yivi, with no one on board but her 
 eno;ineer and a black man, broke loose from her 
 moorings and was carried down -stream. The 
 motion awoke the engineer, who coolly proceeded 
 to get up steam, and, with the help of the native, 
 brought her back to her place before any serious 
 consequences had ensued. The steamers were, as 
 I have said, in a very dirty condition, and every- 
 thing in a general state of neglect. 
 
 As the Heron had to return to Banana, and the 
 Behjique had gone on to Vivi, I was compelled to 
 wait until the latter came back. Towards the 
 evening of June 1st she arrived, bringing down 
 Captain Coquilhat and Bishop Taylor — the latter 
 an American missionary who had come out to 
 start a new mission on the Kassai. To avoid the 
 mosquitoes, I slept that night on the deck of the
 
 38 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLD YILLE. 
 
 Heron ; and, as she was anchored some little 
 distance from the bank, managed to secure a fair 
 amount of sleep. Next morning I had my baggage 
 taken on board the Belgique, and about 10 a.m. 
 we left for Matadi. The State station at Boma is 
 lower down the river than the trading factories ; 
 and we passed in succession the British Congo 
 Company, French (Daumas, Beraud, et C'*"-), Portu- 
 guese, and Dutch compounds. Then came a large, 
 flat-topped rock, rising some 50 or 60 feet sheer 
 from the river, on the top of which were the 
 buildings of the French Roman Catholic Mission. 
 Be3^ond this, again, standing back from the river, 
 on a mound, is the two-storeyed house, inhabited 
 l)y the chief of Messrs Hatton & Cookson s factory, 
 into which Stanley was carried, when he arrived, 
 weary and sick, after his awful journey across the 
 Dark Continent. 
 
 A few miles above Boma the river emer2;es from 
 the narrow gorge in which it has run since leavino; 
 Leopoldville. The current here runs with tremen- 
 dous force, and we were obliged to keep well out 
 from the shore on account of rocks. Captain 
 Coquilhat, who was bound for the upper river, was 
 on board, and from him I learnt many details as to 
 what was in store for me. We reached Matadi at 
 6 P.M., and there found Captain Shagerstrom, who 
 had come up a day ahead of me, and was waiting 
 for carriers. He introduced me to Baron Roth-
 
 STATE OF THE BELGIQUE. 39 
 
 kirch, a German, who was detained by the same 
 circumstance ; and we walked up together to the 
 station, where Mr Maloney, the chief, had a sub- 
 stantial dinner waiting; for us. 
 
 Early the next morning. Captain Coquilhat, 
 whose men were waiting for him, started on his 
 march, and I returned on board the Belgique, in 
 order to cross to Yivi and fetch my tent, camp- 
 bed, and other necessaries. The Belgique, as I 
 mentioned above, was a twin-screw steamer, but 
 had lately been so neglected that it was only pos- 
 sible to go astern with one of her engines, the 
 reversing-lever of the other being lashed in a go- 
 ahead position. In this state we crossed Yivi 
 rapids, and arrived safely at Yivi beach, where 
 we waited in the cool verandah of Mr Ulf's house, 
 while a messenger went to bring down donkeys for 
 us to ride up to the station. 
 
 On reaching the top of the plateau, I was met 
 by Mr Legat, who informed me that ]\Ir J. Rose 
 Troup, the chief, was down with fever. I had to 
 remain here some days, so Mr Legat first showed 
 me my quarters and then introduced me to Mr Case- 
 ment, who had charge of the stores, and who now 
 proceeded to supply me with provisions (in West 
 African parlance " chop ") and all the necessary 
 paraphernalia for a long march up-country. 
 
 Yivi Station — the native town from which it 
 takes its name is mentioned by Tuckey as Banza
 
 40 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 
 
 Bibbi — is now a thing of the past. Its situation, 
 on the corner of a jutting hill, which at first seemed 
 to be eminently healthy, has proved the reverse. 
 Cold winds blow with extreme force up the confined 
 gorge of the Cono;o, at the entrance to which it is 
 placed ; and chills are, on that river, as fruitful a 
 source of fever as malaria. ]\Iatadi has taken the 
 place of Vivi, so far as a starting-point was nec- 
 essary for the caravan-road, and the buildings of 
 the station have mostly been transferred bodily 
 to Boma. 
 
 Next day Mr Troup, having got over the fever, 
 came out of his room, and sent for me to inquire 
 how I was getting on with my preparations. He 
 was looking very ill, and was evidently much 
 shaken by the attack. On Monday, June 7th, I 
 returned to Matadi to get my carriers and com- 
 plete my arrangements. 
 
 My first care, after securing my stores — con- 
 sisting of two boxes of " chop." cooking utensils, 
 camp-bed, tent, and lantern — was to get rid of all 
 European trunks and portmanteaus, and have my 
 worldly goods made up into j^acks of some 60 lb. 
 each : 65 lb. is the regulation load for a ^xf^a^i*, 
 but it is better to be on the safe side ; and the 
 lighter the load, the less chance of its being sud- 
 denly dropped — most likely in some inconvenient 
 place, such as the middle of a stream. I had some 
 things soaked and spoiled in this way.
 
 FIRST day's march. 41 
 
 At last my men were mustered — seven carriers, 
 and two Houssas to serve as escort, besides my 
 interpreter, wlio also acted as gun-bearer. AVe 
 started at 7 a.m. on the lOtli of June 1886, and 
 then my sorrows began. 
 
 Baron Kotlikirch and Captain Shagerstrom started 
 at the same time, with their respective carriers ; 
 but, owing to the nature of the country, we soon 
 got separated, and had to shift each for himself. 
 The so-called road was a path about 9 inches wide, 
 bounded on either side by a dense jungle of cane- 
 like grass that was never lower than my shoulders, 
 and sometimes rose to a height of 16 or 20 feet. 
 After leaving Matadi, this path — indeed it does 
 not deserve the name, being only the bed of a 
 torrent strewn with huge boulders — passes over 
 two hills, which looked to me almost vertical. It 
 was a marvel to me how the carriers contrived to 
 keep their footing ; but they walked bolt-upright, 
 carrying their loads on their heads with seeming 
 ease. However, having been warned that they 
 would attempt to practise on the ignorance of 
 a mundele^ new to the country, I looked after 
 them as sharply as I could ; and, in fact, it was not 
 long before I saw a burden cast down, and its bearer 
 afflicted with a most conspicuous and demonstrative 
 shivering fit. I had to walk up to him and remon- 
 strate by means of the long staff which every white 
 
 1 White man.
 
 42 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 man in this country carries, and which certainl}^ 
 on every application, effected a marvellous cure. 
 
 We did not march above nine miles on the first 
 day. I made the mistake of walking at the head 
 of my caravan, which, from the nature of the path, 
 had to proceed in single file, and, as a consequence, 
 had every now and then to walk back, say a quarter 
 of a mile, to cure an attack of sickness somewhere 
 in the rear. By the time I caught sight of the 
 Livingstone Inland Mission Station at Mpallaballa,^ 
 it was 5 P.M., and I was so exhausted with heat and 
 thirst that I left to the Houssas the task of bringing 
 up stragglers, and made at once for the house, 
 where I received a hearty welcome. By 6.30 my 
 carriers had not arrived — which was serious, as my 
 tent, bedding, and chop-boxes were in their hands. 
 I had tea with the missionaries, but there was not 
 a room in the house they could offer me ; and I was 
 fain to seek the hospitality of the black potentate 
 of the district, one Nozo, who has built a hut, 
 rather more elaborate than most dwellings in those 
 parts, for the entertainment of the travelling mun- 
 dele. His majesty presented me with the key, and 
 ordered one of his subjects to show the way with 
 a lantern. I found two beds, but only one of 
 them furnished with a mosquito-curtain, and that 
 being already occupied by Captain Shagerstrom, I 
 made myself comfortable in the other. Certainly 
 
 ^ Since handed over to the A.B.M.U.
 
 MY FIRST FEVER. 43 
 
 we might have been worse off, and very often, in 
 later times, we looked back with regret to the 
 night we had spent in King Nozo's caravanserai. 
 Nearly two years afterwards Captain Shagerstrom 
 remarked, with reference to that subject, " Jolly 
 good beds those — I wish we had them here." 
 
 By 6.30 next morning, the men had dropped in 
 by twos and threes — having lain down to sleep here 
 and there by the wayside — and we got them all 
 started an hour later. This time, taught by expe- 
 rience, I brought up the rear, and had the satisfac- 
 tion, on reaching camp in the evening, of finding 
 them all there before me. Baron Rothkirch and 
 Captain Shagerstrom were already putting up our 
 tents, and counting the loads, so I turned my 
 attention to preparing dinner, and, for an amateur 
 cook, succeeded pretty well. The next three or 
 four days were simply a monotonous repetition of 
 the first two — endless marches through long grass, 
 over hills, and across water-courses, now coming to 
 a village, now to a market-place, where we stopped 
 to purchase fowls, bananas, or any other eatable we 
 could find. Now and then we reached a hillside 
 whence we could get a view over miles and miles 
 of broken country. About the middle of the fifth 
 day I was suddenly seized with pains in my legs, 
 and before we arrived in camp at night I discovered 
 what Conoro fever is like. With the assistance of 
 the Houssas I got my camp-bed and tent up, and,
 
 44 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 
 
 rolling myself iu the blankets, turned in. Next 
 morning I was no better — in fact, seemed to be 
 worse ; so Baron Kotlikircli decided to go on to 
 Liikungu, for wliicli station lie was bound, and 
 send back a hammock for me. My tent having 
 got torn, the Baron, before departing, took it down, 
 and substituted his own, and then he and Shager- 
 strom took all the loads and started, leaving me 
 with six men to carr}^ my camp-gear when I should 
 be able to proceed, or the hammock arrive for me. 
 One of these men I had engaged as my " boy" ^ at 
 Banza ]\Ianteka. I have had a great many boys 
 since, but he was the only one I ever knew who in 
 any way bore out the character for faithfulness 
 of which one hears so much in connection with 
 African servants. 
 
 Two days later, feeling rather better, I deter- 
 mined to make a start, and go to meet the prom- 
 ised hammock from Lukungu. My boy got my 
 camp-bed, tent, and chop-box all ready, and the 
 carriers set off, while I slowly followed. I had 
 eaten very little, as the fever was still on me, 
 and I had no appetite, and, in consequence, found 
 myself much weaker than I had imagined. How- 
 ever, I managed to keep up for some three or 
 four miles, when, as I was walking along a narrow 
 path on the side of a steep hill, on which the 
 grass had been burnt, affording a splendid view 
 
 1 African equivalent for servant.
 
 I EXACT THE FETISH. 45 
 
 of the surrounding country, I began to feel 
 queer, the view faded into dim distance, there 
 was a rush as of two passing trains — a crash — and 
 I knew no more. My next sensations were rather 
 peculiar. When I came to myself I was lying on 
 the hillside, where a low, scrubby bush had arrested 
 my fall some ten yards below the path. My boy 
 was kneeling beside me, gazing anxiously into my 
 face, wdiile a little lower down the hill lay one of 
 my carriers, bound hand and foot with his own 
 waist-cloth and that of my boy. Both of them were 
 completely innocent of clothing, and covered with 
 dust and scratches. Eaising myself up, I asked 
 what all this meant : for all answer my boy held a 
 small looking-glass (which he extracted from a bag 
 slung over his shoulder) before my face, and, ill as 
 I was, I could not help laughing at the sight I pre- 
 sented. I had seen, in several villages I had passed 
 throu2;h, wooden idols or fetishes, whose faces were 
 plentifully bespattered with kola -nut, which the 
 natives chew into a paste and then spit over the 
 idol.' In falling, I had cut my face in several 
 places, and now, streaked with blood, and covered 
 with sand and dust, I could very well have set up 
 as an amateur fetish. 
 
 On inquiring why the carrier was tied up, I learnt 
 
 > Hence the native saying — " Nkishi ampa mumbana makazu " — 
 " A new fetish requires jjlenty of kola-nut,"— i.e. " A new machine 
 wants plenty of oil."
 
 46 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 that, on seeing me fall, the men, thinking I was 
 dead, had dropped their loads and run away, and 
 that this one had been intercepted by my boy, and 
 tied up to prevent his following the rest. Some 
 water having been fetched from the bottom of a 
 ravine close by, I washed the dirt from my face, 
 and regained the path, where I saw that my tent 
 and camp-bed had been flung down, as well as a 
 tin box in which I carried a few necessary clothes, 
 to which I had luckily added an Ashantee ham- 
 mock. This I now extracted, and my boy having 
 hidden all my loads in the long grass, cut a pole, to 
 which he tied the hammock, and, releasing the only 
 remaining carrier, made him take the other end, 
 and I was thus carried towards Lukungu. AVe had 
 not gone very far when w^e met twelve men wdth a 
 hammock, sent to look for me by Mr Dannfelt, 
 chief of Lukungu station. Into this I was trans- 
 ferred and carried on, my boy returning with eight 
 men to recover the tent and other things. Next 
 day I arrived at Lukungu, just as Captain Shag- 
 erstrom was leaving for Leopoldville ; and for the 
 next three days I hardly left my tent, as the fever 
 still obstinately clung to me, and defied all my 
 attempts to get rid of it. 
 
 On the fifth day after arriving at Lukungu, I 
 was able to proceed — starting about 3 p.m. w^th 
 twelve carriers, six of whom w^ere Zanzibaris. 
 Next day, just before reaching Lutete — where
 
 LUTETE. 47 
 
 the Baptist Mission has a station — I met Mr 
 Herbert "Ward, who was going down to Boma. 
 Lutete proved to be tolerably full of white men 
 for the time being, as, besides myself and two or 
 three others going up for the State, there were 
 two expeditions halting there : one, consisting of 
 Captains Bove and Fabrello, sent out by the Italian 
 Government, on its way up river ; and the other, 
 a German expedition under Dr Wolf, homeward 
 bound from the Kassai. I only stopped here one 
 night, and then w^ent my way — to meet with an- 
 other attack of fever two days later. This time, 
 however, I had plenty of men, and the Zauzibaris 
 soon rigged up my hammock, and, placing me in 
 it, started for Leopoldville. How long it took to 
 get there I had not at the time the least notion, 
 as I lay in that half-insensible state when one is 
 careless of life or death, — only waiting, with a 
 vague longing, for the end, one way or another 
 — I did not care which. When night came, the 
 Zanzibaris set up my camp-bed and laid me on it, 
 putting up my tent over me, and brought me food, 
 from which I turned in disgust. I was actually 
 only two days and two nights in this state, but it 
 seemed much longer. On the mornins; of tlie third 
 day, one of the Zanzibaris came and roused me 
 with the news that we should be in Leopoldville 
 before noon ; and, some two hours after we had 
 started, he came to the side of the hammock and
 
 48 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 pointed out Stanley Pool in the distance. I raised 
 myself to look, but the blinding glare was too 
 much for my eyes, and I lay back till, roused 
 by hearing voices around me, I found myself 
 in Leopoldville Station, being lifted out of the 
 hammock and carried into the house, where a 
 white man (whom I soon discovered to be Dr 
 Mense) was busy arranging my camp - bed and 
 blankets. Having made my entry into the station 
 after this fashion, I soon began to recover under 
 the care of Dr Mense, than whom a kinder and 
 better doctor never existed. His greatest pleasure 
 was to minister to the sick — not only by prescrib- 
 ing medicines, but by devising every possible com- 
 fort, and even luxury, for the benefit of his patients ; 
 indeed he never seemed happy unless he was doing 
 good to some one. A man would need to be very 
 far gone if he did not soon begin to revive under 
 Dr Mense's treatment ; and accordingly, I was 
 soon able to crawl out of my room and look 
 round. 
 
 I was puzzled about the fever, which I could 
 not attribute to chills, as I had been warned at 
 Matadi not to stand about in damp clothes after the 
 dsiys march, and had, in consequence, been careful 
 always to put on an extra coat as soon as we halted. 
 As for malaria, I had been up among the mountains, 
 between one and two thousand feet above the sea, 
 and had always understood that malaria never rises
 
 STANLEY AND AFRICA. 49 
 
 to such a height. Dr Mense informed me, however, 
 that my fever was the result of exposure to the 
 sun. A long clay's march under a tropical sun is, 
 it seems — if it does not first result in sunstroke — 
 as fruitful a source of fever as any other. 
 
 It is somewhat amusing, in reading Stanley's 
 works, to contrast the ideas of Africa to be gathered 
 thence, with the popular notion of that continent, 
 as a vast, steaming swamp, given over to fevers, 
 venomous reptiles, and nameless horrors of all kinds. 
 This applies chiefly to his latest work — for, in truth, 
 much of 'Through the Dark Continent' is depress- 
 ing reading enough, though even there the up- 
 lands of Manyema, and the glorious cultivated plains 
 of Uganda and Unyoro, come in for their full 
 share of praise. If we may believe the great ex- 
 plorer, Africa is, if not a paradise, at least quite 
 a tolerable place to live in ; and it is only the folly 
 and ignorance of white men in general, and new- 
 comers in particular, that cause all the disease and 
 death of which one hears so much in Europe. 
 
 The truth is, one must remember that Stanley 
 has spent the best years of his life in Africa, that 
 to it he owes his name and fame as an explorer, and 
 for its sake has undergone hardships and dangers 
 innumerable; and that, in consequence, the " Sphinx 
 of the Nations" is to him, one might almost say, as 
 a child. 
 
 But even allowing for Stanley's prepossessions in 
 
 D
 
 50 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 favour of Africa, one must admit that there is less 
 now than there was ten years ago to deter Europeans 
 from going to live there. The climate, certainly, 
 is more injurious to them than that of their own 
 country, Ijut all tropical regions are terribly ener- 
 vating to Europeans, and Central Africa labours 
 under the added disadvantage of the great difficulty 
 experienced in obtaining good food. A man who 
 comes to the Congo must not shut his eyes to the 
 fact that he is in a tropical climate, or try to live 
 as he would in Europe. He must remember that 
 the sun is far more powerful, and that, after having 
 been for some months exposed to it, he is less able 
 to resist the sudden changes of temperature to 
 which he is sure to be subjected. As Stanley 
 says, people think a great deal too much about 
 malaria, and not enough about other causes of fever. 
 When I first announced to my friends that I was 
 going to the Congo, "malaria" was dinned into my 
 ears from morning till night, though no one seemed 
 able to tell me precisely what it was — one man, 
 indeed, saying he believed it was a kind of fever. 
 During the first two years of my stay in the coun- 
 try, I had several slight fevers, and one or two bad 
 ones ; but not one of these can I attribute to malaria. 
 The first attack was the worst. In the course of 
 the ten days that followed it, my opinion of Africa 
 went down to zero. Had Stanley been writing 
 a prophecy concerning my arrival at the Pool, he
 
 INJUDICIOUS ZEAL. 51 
 
 could not have described it more exactly than 
 when he says, speaking of Europeans on their 
 way up country : " Some of them, under the fiery 
 impulse of getting on, on, and on, will march their 
 fifteen miles per day, and on arriving at the end of 
 their journey, they will turn round and deliberately 
 curse the land, the climate, and the peo^^le." 
 
 I started with a great notion of getting on, and 
 walked, if not fifteen miles per day, at any rate more 
 than I ought to have done, after lolling for six weeks 
 about the decks of an ocean steamer. On arriving 
 at the Pool, carried in a hammock, and with just 
 enoug^h sense about me to know that I was still 
 alive, I did curse the country and the climate most 
 heartily, and vowed that, if I ever regained strength 
 enough to bear the journey down to the sea, I 
 would get out of Africa as quickly as I could. 
 
 As soon as I was well enough, I took a walk to 
 the top of Leopold Hill. Half-way down this height 
 is a kind of terrace cut out of the hillside, on which 
 the station buildings stand, whence a road leads 
 down, through a banana-plantation, to the beach, 
 and the stores and workshops necessary for the 
 steamers. This hill was pretty steep, but the view 
 at the top amply repaid the climb. It was one of 
 the noblest I had ever seen. I could never do 
 justice to it in a description, were I to try for a 
 year ; and even standing on the hill with it before 
 my eyes, I felt as if I could not see enough of it.
 
 52 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 
 
 Below me lay Leopoldville and the native town of 
 Ntamo — I could look rio-ht over tliem to the bao- 
 babs marking the site of Nshassa — and beyond, the 
 broad Pool, with its sandbanks and islands ; while, 
 to the north-east, the whitish gleam of Dover Cliffs 
 showed plainly above the dark forest of Bamu (or 
 Long Island) ; and a little to the east, a gap in the 
 hills indicated where the Congo poured its volume 
 of waters into the Pool. Turning to the south-east, 
 the eye is arrested by Mabengu, lately christened 
 Mense Mountain, in honour of Dr Mense, who as- 
 cended it just before leaving for home, which he 
 did March 13th, 1887, to the great regret of all Euro- 
 peans on the Congo. On the south side of the Pool, 
 a broad grass-covered plain extends from Nshassa 
 to Kimpopo, and back inland as far as the mountain- 
 ridge of which Mabengu forms part. This plain, 
 consisting of a rich black soil, will, I hope, in the 
 dim future — when the long-talked-of railway is 
 completed — be covered Avith plantations of coffee, 
 rice, and sugar-cane. Some portions of it are in- 
 undated by the river during a rainy season of un- 
 usual severity ; but the greater part is high and dry 
 at all times, and only wants the grass cleared away 
 to be ready for cultivation. To the west, the 
 mighty Congo sweeps round the foot of Leopold 
 Hill, and over the reef which forms the first rapid 
 of Ntamo cataract. In the middle of the cataract 
 are two or three rocky, tree-covered islets, between
 
 RAPIDS AT KALLINA POINT. 53 
 
 which the river roars in one mass of l)oilinQ; foam. 
 Just above the islands is seen one of the mouths of 
 the Gordon-Bennett river, which, emerging from the 
 dark forests of the north bank, flings itself headlong 
 over a lofty cliff* into the Congo. Eastward of the 
 Gordon-Bennett, the high w^ooded bank extends 
 to the village of Mfvva. Here, on a commanding 
 height, the French tricolor waves from the station 
 of Brazzaville, right opposite the rocky promontory, 
 now called Kallina Point, after an Austrian lieu- 
 tenant who, in 1883, lost his life while attempting 
 to round it in a canoe. This point juts boldly out 
 into the stream, its cliffs rising perpendicularly out 
 of deep water, and diverts the strong current which 
 dashes itself against its upper side, towards the 
 centre of the river, thus forming, under the lee of 
 the cliff's, a return current of almost equal strength. 
 A new-comer ascending the river in a canoe, and 
 keeping, as is always done, close inshore, would 
 not see the broken water beyond the point till his 
 craft was well under the influence of the return cur- 
 rent, and being carried, at a speed of three or four 
 miles per hour, right into an opposing current, run- 
 ning at the rate of six or seven. The sudden shock 
 and lurch which follow are almost certain to upset 
 the canoe ; and then the best swimmer would need 
 more than human strength to keep his head above 
 the chaos of cross-currents and whirlpools which 
 sweeps him away towards Ntamo fiills. I re-
 
 54 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 
 
 member, during my scliool-days, making a rash 
 attemj^t at diving through the open sluice of one of 
 the locks on the Medway. The river, not above 
 twenty yards wide at the spot, was running, through 
 a sluice of about two feet six by five feet, into a 
 basin of say twelve feet broad and ten deep. Div- 
 ing too low, I was caught in the return current, 
 and whirled several times head over heels before I 
 could strugoile into calmer water, with a force such 
 as I never wish to feel again. Compared with this 
 trifling instance, what must be the force of current 
 of a river which, after a course of nearly 3000 miles, 
 throws, on an average, about 2,000,000 cubic feet of 
 water out of the Pool, through a channel from one 
 and a half to two miles wide, below which a sudden 
 fall of ground forms the cataract of Ntamo ? It is 
 true that canoes can and do go up and down round 
 Kallina Point, manned by experienced native boat- 
 men ; but even these are often thrown back several 
 times before they contrive to cross the stream into 
 the calmer bay beyond. Many a time, when round- 
 ing the point in the State steamer, have I seen the 
 water thrown up, on either side of her bows, into a 
 great wave, higher than the gunwale, as the plucky 
 little launch charged the current — and wondered 
 how any canoe could possibly live in that stream. 
 
 Such is Stanley Pool ; and had it been situated 
 in Europe, and blessed with a better climate, it 
 would long ago have been as full of tourists raving
 
 A.LA. AND JSX AVANT. 55 
 
 about its beauty as Naples, Nice, or Mentone. But 
 civilisation would spoil a spot like this. It is its 
 mighty, lonely grandeur that enhances its beauty, 
 and cultivation would for ever destroy the undis- 
 turbed solemnity of nature which surrounds it. 
 
 Having taken a good look round from the top of 
 Leopold Hill, I descended to the station, and re- 
 paired to the house of the chief — Baron von 
 Nimpsch, Commissaire de District for Leopold- 
 ville — to receive my orders. These were to take 
 myself and belongings to Bangala in the steamer 
 A. I. A. (" Association Internationale Africaine"), to 
 which I was appointed as engineer. I was also 
 instructed to report myself to Captain Coquilhat, 
 as he was Commissaire de District for Bangala, and 
 I should in future be under his orders. After doing 
 this I made my way down to the beach, where the 
 steamers Stanley and A.LA. were lying in the 
 quiet baylet, and the En Avant out of water 
 undergoing repairs. The latter (which, it may 
 be noted, was the pioneer steamer of the Congo 
 Free State) was destined to be most unfortunate 
 as regards these repairs. She lay on shore for 
 months, waiting for a new crank -shaft to her 
 engine (the original one having mysteriously dis- 
 appeared during her transport from Matadi), and 
 at last, when the Emin Pasha Relief Expedition 
 ascended the river, was taken away by Stanley as 
 a lighter in tow of the Henry Reed. By the time
 
 56 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 the Ilcnry Reed returned to Leopoldville (some 
 four months later) the crank-shaft had arrived ; 
 but the boiler-tubes were still missing, and only 
 appeared in about two months more — when the 
 En Avant, after eighteen months' inactivity (at 
 least in her capacity of steamer), once more 
 started up the Congo, whose waters her bows 
 had parted five years ago, when, as the first 
 " smoke - boat," she astonished the natives of 
 Bangala and the Aruhwimi. 
 
 Standing in a group near the En Avant, 1 found 
 several engineers and captains discussing the pos- 
 sibility of supplying, with -the limited means at 
 their command, an essential j)art of the Stanley's 
 gear, which had not arrived with the rest, and the 
 want of which was now delaying the expedition 
 destined to start for Bangala and Stanley Falls. 
 
 One of this group, on seeing me, left the rest, 
 and coming towards me, announced himself as 
 Captain Anderson of the Stanley, and then intro- 
 duced me to the other gentlemen present, among 
 whom was Captain Delatte, of the A.I. A. The 
 latter boat — a launch of about ten tons — was lying 
 alongside the Stanley, having just been repaired 
 and painted. Her speed had been much increased 
 by taking out her engines and boilers, and substi- 
 tuting those of the Royal, which, being of wood, 
 was now no longer fit for the hard service on the 
 Upper Congo. A sun-deck had also been added.
 
 SLIP, OR DRY DOCK? 57 
 
 which covered the boat nearly from stem to stern, 
 greatly adding to the comfort and safety of tra- 
 velling during the middle of the day. 
 
 By the side of the A. I. A. lay the Stanley, a 
 stern-wheeler of 27 tons. This steamer had been 
 specially built by Messrs Yarrow, of Poplar, for 
 transport to the Upper Congo. She had been 
 brought up in sections on iron waggons, put into 
 the water and bolted together, had then made her 
 maiden voyage up the river, and now hung like a 
 millstone round the necks of the authorities at 
 Leopoldville. In going up the Kassai, a hole had 
 been knocked in her bottom, and most of the paint 
 rubbed oft' her on sandbanks ; and now she had to 
 be taken out of the water to be repaired and re- 
 painted. 
 
 As she was too large to be incontinently hauled 
 up high and dry, like the -E'?i Avant and A.I. A., 
 the only thing to do was to construct either a slip 
 or a dry dock. The engineers in the service of the 
 State were quite able and willing to do one or the 
 other ; but the Congo Free State is an institution 
 in which every one knows the engineers' work 
 better than the engineers themselves. There is 
 no superintending or consulting engineer, — orders 
 come from the chiefs of departments for such and 
 such a thing to be done, without the said chiefs 
 knowing whether it is feasible or not ; and the man 
 appointed to execute the work has often great
 
 58 UP COUNTRY TO LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 difficulty in getting men enough allowed him to 
 carry it through. 
 
 So it was with the Stanley. A great deal of 
 discussion took place at the upper end of the 
 dinner-table as to what could be done — ending in 
 an order to build a slip. Huge logs of wood, large 
 enough to construct a slip for a 500-ton steamer 
 instead of a 30-ton one, were shortly afterwards 
 fetched over from the north bank for this purpose. 
 The work of constructing this slip was progressing 
 steadily, if slowly, when some one suggested to the 
 chief of the station that a dock would be finished 
 more quickly. A huge hole was accordingly 
 scooped out of the bank, and all the men in prison 
 turned out and put to dig in irons. For some 
 unknown reason, this dock also was shortly after 
 abandoned, and the Stanley went unpainted for 
 more than a year, till at last the Compagnie du 
 Congo pour le Commerce et I'lndustrie, having 
 decided to place a steamer on the upper river, 
 sent out a company of engineers, carpenters, and 
 blacksmiths, under a competent superintendent. 
 A slip was at length constructed, on which the 
 Stanley was drawn up and repaired. 
 
 Beside the Stanley lay the Henry Reed — an- 
 other stern- wheeler, belonging to the A.B.M.U., 
 but now chartered by the State ; and beyond 
 that, drawn up on the beach, the hull of the poor 
 little Royal, originally built as a pleasure-launch
 
 THE LAST OF THE ROYAL. 59 
 
 for the King of the Belgians, and by him pre- 
 sented to the International Association of the 
 Congo ; now — after doing some of the hardest work 
 that ever steam-launch did, on the rapids between 
 Isangila and Manyanga, as well as between Stanley 
 Pool and Stanley Falls — utterly dismantled. Here 
 her remains still lay when, two years later, I 
 passed through Leopoldville for the last time ; all 
 sound timbers having been removed to repair the 
 other boats, and only the rotten ones left — to be 
 broken up by the weather, and bit by bit carried to 
 the sea, by the river on whose waters she had once 
 so proudly floated.
 
 60 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LEOPOLDYILLE TO BAXGALA. 
 
 STATIO>'-LIFE AT L^OPOLDVILLE — NGALYEMA AND HIS NEIGHBOURS — 
 PROVISION-SUPPLY AT L:fiOPOLDVILLE — YARN OF THE CHAMPAGNE- 
 BOTTLES — CLIMATE AND FEVERS — " CONGO THIRST " — THE 
 STANLEY'S FEED-PUMP — THE ITALIAN EXPEDITION — DEPARTURE 
 OF A. LA. — WINDS IN THE CONGO CANON — SCENERY BETWEEN 
 STANLEY POOL AND KWAMOUTH — HOSPITALITY OF THE KWAMOUTH 
 FATHERS — THE MISSISSIPPI PILOT — HIPPO -SHOOTING — DEATH OF 
 DELATTE — EQUATOR — MONOTONOUS SCENERY — BANGALA — AR- 
 RIVAL OF THE STAXLEV — MATA BWYKI, CHIEF OF IBOKO — DANCE 
 AND MASSAXGA-DRiyKiyC — DEPARTURE OF THE STANLEY — MY 
 QUARTERS IN THE GUN-ROOM — A TROPICAL THUNDERSTORM — 
 FIRST HOUSE AT BANGALA — FOOD-SUPPLY — THE BA-NGALA — 
 CANNIBALISM. 
 
 At Leopoldville every one has to rise early, break- 
 fast being served at 6 a.m., after which all proceed 
 to their work till 11.30, when lunch is ready. 
 After lunch comes the siesta, and then, till 2 p.m., 
 the station is as quiet as the City of London on a 
 Sunday. At the latter hour we turn to again till 
 5.30, when every one washes off the dust of the 
 day's labour. Dinner comes on at 6 p.m., and 
 nearly all have retired beneath their mosquito-
 
 NTAMO OX FIEE. 61 
 
 curtains by 9 — to smoke and read (provided that 
 the materials for such diversion are forthcoming) 
 themselves to sleep. Thus the routine goes on 
 day after day, seldom varied unless by the arrival 
 or departure of caravans or steamers. On Sundays 
 breakfast is on the table at 7 a.m. for such as like 
 to get up for it, but scarcely any one turns up 
 before lunch, unless bent on a long walk or shooting 
 excursion. 
 
 On the second Sunday after my arrival, Ngal- 
 yema, chief of Ntamo, tired of the even tenor of 
 his way, treated us to a little characteristic diver- 
 sion. Having had a difterence with one of his 
 neighbours, he proceeded to attack him, but was 
 driven back to his own town, which was set on fire 
 by his enemies. Standing on the lofty terrace on 
 which the station is built, we had a splendid view of 
 the whole affiiir. Baron von Nimpsch despatched 
 a hundred Zanzibaris with rifles to restore order, 
 which they soon did by marching straight for the 
 town. Both parties incontinently fled at their 
 approach ; but the grass-built town, once lighted, 
 was not easily extinguished, and continued to burn 
 half through the night, casting a grand, weird light 
 over the broad waters of the Congo. 
 
 On the lower river every one had congratulated 
 me on being sent up-country, for two reasons : first, 
 they said the climate was better ; secondly, fresh 
 food (in the shape of goats, fowls, &c.) was reported
 
 62 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BAXGALA. 
 
 more plentiful, so that we should not be compelled 
 to depend on supplies of tinned meat from Europe. 
 But, unluckily, it has been proved at Leopoldville 
 that the supplies, whether native or imported, are 
 not equal to the demand. The Europeans in that 
 station have several times been reduced to cliih- 
 wanga (a preparation of manioc — the native sub- 
 stitute for bread) and yams, as no more goats or 
 fowls were to be had in the district, and the pro- 
 visions from Europe had been delayed en route, 
 owing to a scarcity of carriers. Soon after my 
 arrival at Stanley Pool things began to look very 
 bad, as the chiefs of transport had great difficulty 
 in orettins; carriers. There were at this time from 
 twelve to fifteen white men in the station, besides 
 about thirty Zanzibaris and Houssas in the service 
 of the State ; and at the two mission-stations some 
 six white men, with their servants and native work- 
 men, whose numbers I do not know. At Nshassa, 
 seven miles distant, is another State station with 
 tw^o or three w^iite men, a Dutch trading-house 
 with two, and another mission-station with four or 
 five. Opposite Nshassa is the French station of 
 Brazzaville, with at least three or four more, and 
 their workmen and servants. All these have to be 
 supported on goats, fowls, &c., purchased from the 
 natives, and naturally the supply gave out under 
 so enormous a drain — the people of the district 
 having taken no pains to provide supplies to meet
 
 PROVISIONS GET SCARCE. 63 
 
 this extra demand. At last things reached such a 
 pitch that work had to be stopped,' and the men 
 sent out with supplies of beads, cloth, and brass 
 wire to scour the country in search of food. Some 
 of them have told me how they would watch the 
 natives preparing their manioc (which is a work of 
 time, as the roots have to be steeped for some 
 weeks after digging, in order to get rid of the 
 poisonous juice), track them to their huts, and 
 watch day and night outside the doors till the 
 chihcanga was baked and ready, w^hen they would 
 at once beo;in to barsjain for it. The whites fared 
 somewhat better, as long as the supplies of tinned 
 goods from Europe lasted ; but these, too, at length 
 began to give out, and every one was prophesying 
 a return to the good old times of chikwanga and 
 yam, when a small caravan arrived and staved off 
 the evil day. 
 
 Long before this, however, the chief had thought 
 it better to put every one on short allowance. 
 Amono: other rations, PortuQ-uese wine was issued 
 at the rate of half a bottle per man per day. 
 Each man had to send his " boy " to the store with 
 his bottle every other day, and of course there was 
 a rush for the big bottles. The storekeeper, in- 
 structed by the chief, refused everything larger 
 than a champagne-bottle ; and as the second officer 
 in charge of the station superintended the issuing 
 of rations in person, there was no chance for any
 
 64 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BANGALA. 
 
 man to get more than his share. This did not 
 please the engineers, who decided, at a council 
 held in the mess-room of the Stanley, that half a 
 bottle per day was not enough ; and forthwith a 
 collection of empty bottles began to accumulate 
 in the engineers' store, and experiments were in- 
 stituted to find out whether the capacity of any 
 one of them exceeded that of the rest, but with 
 very unsatisfactory results. At last some one 
 suggested the device of blowing out the bulge in 
 the bottom of the bottle, so as to leave it nearly 
 flat. No sooner said than done. Xot only was 
 the bottom flattened, but it was found j)ossible by 
 means of heat to slightly stretch the bottle itself, 
 so that, though it appeared very little larger than 
 an ordinary chamj^agne-bottle, it would hold nearly 
 half as much again. The trick remained undis- 
 covered till the engineers had all finished their 
 term of service, when the ingenious deviser of the 
 scheme, being the last to depart for Europe, left his 
 bottle to the second in command, with a hint to 
 keep his eyes open for the future. 
 
 As to the climate, volumes have been written on 
 African climates, and I do not wish to add to the 
 already over-abundant literature of the subject. 
 A European is naturally out of his element in 
 tropical countries, so it follows, as a matter of 
 course, that he cannot expect his health to be as 
 good as it would be in more northern latitudes.
 
 THE TOLL OF THE TROPICS. 65 
 
 For the rest, a great deal depends on a man's 
 constitution and habits. Some men go in for 
 slight periodical fevers ; others for occasional more 
 violent attacks at irregular intervals ; others, 
 again, take their fevers all in a lump. Some 
 seldom or never touch quinine ; others cannot keep 
 on their legs \Yithout a daily dose. Some can drink 
 an enormous quantity of liquor and never seem the 
 worse for it ; others have their temperature raised 
 to an alarming extent by the mere taste of wine. 
 I have known men who, throughout their whole 
 stay in Africa, were troubled, every other week, 
 with intermittent fever (lasting about two days), 
 go home to Europe, get well and strong, come out 
 again, apparently acclimatised, and keep pretty well 
 afterwards. Others have spent two or three years, 
 in very good health, seldom troubled with fever or 
 anything else, and then suddenly collapsed with 
 a severe attack of malarial poisoning. One must 
 pay the toll of the tropics in some way, either by 
 instalments or in a lump sum. Few, very few, 
 escape ; and those who manage to spend two or 
 three years in Africa without fever, will usually 
 suffer for it when they get to colder latitudes, or 
 make it up afterwards on their return to a hot 
 climate. At least, such is the result of my obser- 
 vations. There was only one man of my acquaint- 
 ance who, so far as my knowledge of him went, 
 had entirely escaped illness, and he was in the 
 
 E
 
 66 LEOPOLDYILLE TO BANGALA. 
 
 habit of swallowing large closes of quinine every 
 morning. I subsequently heard a report that he 
 had, many years before, suffered from a severe 
 attack of fever in India. Stanley, in his latest 
 book, ' The Congo, and the Founding of its Free 
 State,' goes very fully into the subject of climate 
 and disease, and seems to think chills and careless- 
 ness more productive of fevers than malaria. The 
 nights, at some seasons of the year, are certainly 
 chilly, and even cold — especially on the high up- 
 lands of Mpallaballa and Lutete ; and cold winds 
 — or winds that feel cold for that latitude — blow 
 strongly up river. One morning, shortly after my 
 arrival at Bangala, I awoke, feeling sick and ill, 
 and sent my boy to inform Captain Coquilhat that 
 I was not well enough to turn out. The captain, 
 soon afterwards, kindly came to my room to see 
 how I was, and after several questions, sent out an 
 order to the store for two more blankets for me, 
 saying that the nights at that time of year were 
 very cool, and that my fever had been caused by 
 getting chilled while asleep. 
 
 As to liquor, there is no doubt that many men 
 out here do ruin their health by excessive drink- 
 ing ; but the saying that stimulants were made for 
 use, and not for abuse, applies to Africa as well as 
 to all other parts of the world, and I think that 
 many others, chiefly missionaries, ruin theirs by a 
 mistaken and exaggerated abstinence. Every one
 
 EFFECTS OF AN.EMIA. 67 
 
 becomes more or less anaemic after a short resi- 
 dence in this climate, and anaemia, in a country 
 where good nourishing food is scarce, usually pro- 
 duces a strong desire for stimulants. This, com- 
 bined with the heat, may be put down as account- 
 ing for the far-famed " Congo thirst." 
 
 Many steady young men, fresh from Europe, and 
 inexperienced in tropical climates, feeling them- 
 selves growing weak and enervated, give way to 
 this craving, and thus injure their constitutions and 
 ruin their prospects ; while others, who are strict 
 teetotallers, will often be prostrated by sickness, 
 when the timely use of a little wine would have 
 kept up their strength. I never, during my whole 
 life, felt such a desire for strong drinks as during 
 two or three months in which — owing to my duties 
 having kept me a great deal exposed to the sun — 
 I was more than usually anaemic ; and perhaps it 
 was as well for me that I was in a country where 
 wines and spirits were very scarce. 
 
 When the country is better opened up to trade, 
 and the railway and steamship companies enable 
 Europeans to obtain home luxuries and plenty of 
 nourishing food, things will become very much wdiat 
 they now are in India, and the vague terrors of life 
 in Africa will disappear before the magic influence 
 of steam. When splendidly appointed steamships 
 perform the journey from Liverpool to Boma in 
 fifteen days, and rush up the estuary of the mighty
 
 68 LEOPOLD VILLE TO BANGALA. 
 
 river, with their passengers loungiDg under dou])le 
 awnings in luxurious chairs, with iced drinks by 
 their side, and are whirled away to the grander 
 beauties of Stanley Pool and Bateke within twenty- 
 four hours of their landing at Matadi : when this 
 time comes — and as the surveys for the railway 
 have already been made, let us hope it is not far 
 distant — then will the "Dark Continent" become 
 light, and the " open sore of the world" be healed, 
 for the iron horse will open the way for civilisa- 
 tion, and before the advance of civilisation slavery 
 must fall. 
 
 It was nearly three weeks after my arrival at 
 Leopoldville before the steamers were ready to start 
 for Bangala and Stanley Falls. As the delay was 
 caused by the non-arrival of a piece of the Stanley s 
 new feed-pump, Mr Walker, the engineer of the 
 steamer, decided, after waiting a long time, to make 
 a new piece. There being no lathe nearer than 
 Boma, 250 miles away, the whole thing had to be 
 cut out of a solid piece of iron, with hammer, chisel, 
 and file. At last the work was done ; and one night, 
 when every one was seated at dinner, discussing 
 the approaching departure of the steamers, a boy 
 gave Mr Walker a note from the chief of the station, 
 announcing that the long -missing piece had just 
 arrived, having been discovered at Lukungu, and 
 sent on. 
 
 While this had been going on, the two Italian
 
 ACROSS STANLEY POOL. 69 
 
 captains, Bove and Fabrello, had arrived at Leopold- 
 ville, as well as most of the stores for Bano-ala and 
 the Falls ; so it was finally decided to make a start 
 at the end of the week, and all the available men 
 in the station were sent to scour the country round 
 for dead wood, to be used as fuel for the steamers. 
 Accordingly, at 8 a.m. on July 18th, the A. I. A. 
 left Leopoldville, having on board Captain Delatte, 
 Lieutenant Dhanis, and myself, besides a crew of 
 nine Zanzibaris, and two boys. The Stcmley was 
 to follow us next day. We were soon out of sight 
 of LeojDoldville, and through the strong current 
 round Kallina Point, and, passing the Dutch factory 
 and Baptist ^lission Station, called at the State 
 station of Nshassa, and then steamed away across 
 the eighteen-mile length of Stanley Pool. Kim- 
 popo station was not at this time occupied by any 
 Europeans, so Captain Delatte hugged the sand- 
 banks round Bamu island, and before night we 
 were well up the deep gorge out of which the 
 Congo rushes like a mill-race, to spread out into 
 the broad expanse of the Pool. Between this and 
 the mouth of the Kwa (Lower Kassai) the river is 
 very narrow, varying from three-cpiarters of a mile 
 to a mile in width, and rushing along at the rate 
 of from 6 to 8 miles an hour, at the bottom of a 
 deep gorge, the hills on either hand rising to a height 
 of over 4000 feet. The winds, which nearly always 
 blow up river, after passing over the l)road surface
 
 70 L^OPOLDVILLE TO BANGALA. 
 
 of Stanley Pool are confined in this narrow gorge, and 
 become exceedingly strong, especially in the months 
 of August, September, and October, when the oppos- 
 ing stream of water is forced up into huge waves, 
 rendering it next to impossible for the light-built 
 open steamers at present in use to proceed. They 
 very often have to lay up all day waiting till the 
 wind abates, which it nearly always does about 4 
 P.M., to rise again with the sun in the morning. 
 Delatte, w^ho had been up and down the Congo for 
 nearly three years, knew the river thoroughly, and 
 was well up in all the dodges of crawling round the 
 edges of sandbanks, and getting the advantages of 
 slack- water and return* currents ; so we made very 
 good progress. He had only five months more to 
 stay in the country, and talked nearly every day 
 of his return home. Poor fellow ! he was never to 
 see his home asrain ! 
 
 Being now in good health, I began to look about 
 for something to shoot, and shortly after leaving 
 the Pool sighted an antelope ; but these animals 
 are far too shy to be approached in a steamer, so I 
 turned my attention to a monkey which sat grin- 
 ning at me from a neighbouring tree, and favoured 
 him with a shot, but the monkey calmly grinned on. 
 
 The scenery between Stanley Pool and Kwamouth 
 is grand, and really worth seeing. It is very much 
 like that on the Ehine between Bonn and ]\Iainz, only 
 on three or four times as large a scale ; and the tower-
 
 PURURU ISLAND. 71 
 
 ing hills are covered with dense tropical forests and 
 long grass instead of vineyards, while gaunt, bare 
 rocks take the place of ruined castles. For my part, 
 I infinitely prefer the lonely, savage grandeur of this 
 part of the Congo to anything the Ehine can show. 
 On the second day we came to Lissa market, where 
 we stopped for an hour to enable the men to buy 
 food. Just above this is the narrowest part of the 
 river, which is here barely three-quarters of a mile 
 wide. The north bank slopes precipitously down to 
 the water's edge, forming in some places sheer cliffs 
 50 to 60 feet high. Dense forests clothe the hillsides, 
 while the tops are nearly all bare of trees, and in 
 the rainy season covered with long grass, which is 
 burnt when it dries up, after the cessation of the 
 rains. The south bank is not so steep, and has 
 only patches of low scrub in place of the grand 
 forest of the north side. This is, however, relieved 
 by large groves of Hyiohcene palm, which look very 
 beautiful. Just at the upper end of this narrow 
 reach are two pretty little islands, called by Stan- 
 ley Pururu and Dualla islands. The latter — the 
 lower one — is entirely covered with bush and scrub ; 
 but Pururu, the larger of the two, has only its lower 
 half clothed with forest, the upper being covered 
 with a splendid grove of Ilyijhcene palm. After 
 passing these islands, the river gradually widens. 
 
 On the third day we passed Mswata, a now de- 
 serted station of the State, and towards noon
 
 72 LEOPOLD VILLE TO BANG ALA. 
 
 arrived at Kwamouth. Here there was also 
 formerly a State station, now handed over to the 
 French Koman Catholic Mission, and occupied by 
 two pelves belonging to the Societe du St-Esprit. 
 We stopped here for lunch, and on our departure 
 the hospitable fathers gave us a supply of onions 
 and lettuce, which were most welcome, as vege- 
 tables can at present be grown only in a few places 
 in this benighted land, Kwamouth beino- one of 
 the favoured spots. We then crossed the mouth of 
 the Kassai, a few miles higher up the Congo, and 
 stopped at another newly established French mis- 
 sion, belonging to the Societe d'Alger. Some 
 eighteen months later these missionaries trans- 
 ferred their stations to French territory, and Kwa- 
 mouth has again become a station of the State, 
 while the site of the Societe d' Alger's Mission is 
 occupied by some Belgian priests. 
 
 Here two lucres in white robes came out in a 
 canoe to guide us to a safe landing-place, as the 
 banks of the river were here very rocky, and hav- 
 ing received their mail, walked up to the station 
 with Captain Delatte and Lieutenant Dhanis, in- 
 viting me to follow — which I did, as soon as I had 
 put the engine and boiler right for the night, and 
 indulged in a wash. I found, on reaching the sta- 
 tion, that the missionaries had not yet got their 
 house built, and were living in tents. They had, 
 however, by some means or other, come into pos-
 
 ABOVE TWO-PALM POINT. 73 
 
 session of an antelope, and had a table set out in 
 the open air, by the light of a big wood-fire and a 
 full moon ; and, for the second time since landing 
 in Congo, I enjoyed a piece of really good fresh 
 meat. Antelope is like very tender, juicy beef- 
 steak ; while goats — the quadrupeds most frequent- 
 ly eaten here — are always as tough as leather. 
 
 We left here next morning, and passed on to 
 Chumbiri, where we spent another night, — and 
 then on again, up the now widening Congo to Bo- 
 lobo — from which place we crossed to the north 
 bank. After passing Two-Palm Point, a few miles 
 below Bolobo, the river widens to four miles — the 
 centre of the channel being choked up with islands 
 and sand-banks. "We had a man always stationed 
 in the bow of the boat with a long pole, with which 
 he kept trying the depth of the water. Up to 
 Two-Palm Point, the pole had shown deep water 
 all along, except when we approached the shore ; 
 but now it was always finding bottom, and slows 
 and stops became frequent. Mark Twain's Missis- 
 sippi pilot would answer very well for the Congo, 
 — only the Congo, besides being much larger than 
 the Mississippi, is wild and unknown, and one has 
 to feel every mile of one's way. 
 
 The hills, too, gradually disappeared in the dis- 
 tance ; and as we threaded our way towards the 
 north bank, the country, though still pretty and 
 park-like, became a monotonous flat. The low grass-
 
 74 LEOPOLD VILLE TO BANGALA. 
 
 covered islands and Ijanks in this part of the Congo 
 are the favourite haunts of the hippojDotami ; and I 
 frequently saw from ten to twenty of their huge 
 heads appear above water, only to vanish more 
 quickly than they had appeared, when they saw 
 our rifle-barrels gleam in the sun. After wasting 
 several cartridges in trying to hit one, I came to 
 the conclusion that, next to sand-crabs and por- 
 poises, a " hippo " is the most diflicult animal to 
 shoot. Two or three days later, when Dhanis and 
 I had taken our rifles to pieces to clean them, we 
 suddenly came upon two of the great brutes, high 
 and dry on shore. They looked like enormous grey 
 beer-barrels on short, stumpy legs, with a huge 
 head at one end. Yet, in spite of the shortness of 
 their legs, how they did run, when the little steamer 
 came snorting up ! 
 
 When we did succeed in mortally wounding one, 
 he nearly always fell over the edge of a sand-bank 
 into deep water, and so was lost. I hit one stand- 
 ing on a sand-reef half-way out of the water, and 
 thought myself sure of him ; but when struck he 
 jumped clean out of the water, cleared the bank, 
 and landed with a tremendous splash in the deep 
 stream. Another, at which Dhanis was aiming, 
 suddenly opened his huge mouth, and received a 
 Martini express bullet, like a Holloway's pill, clean 
 down his throat. 
 
 Crocodiles afi'orded l^etter sport, as they were not
 
 delatte's last night. 75 
 
 so timid, but their armour-plated backs were very 
 hard ; and sometimes my ball would ricochet off 
 their scaly sides and go spinning along the water, 
 like the flat stones with which schoolboys play at 
 ducks and drakes. About 4 p.m. we reached a 
 place where there were several dead trees, and 
 stopped for the night in order to cut fuel. Having 
 landed the woodcutters, and made everything 
 right, we then — the captain, Dhanis, and myself — 
 sat down to dinner, and soon after it was over I 
 turned in, being very tired. I should explain that 
 there are no cabins in the A. LA. Our sleeping- 
 places were at the stern of the boat, the captain's 
 being farthest aft ; our mosquito-curtains were 
 fastened up to her sides, and our camp-mattresses 
 reached right across her, as she is only six feet in the 
 beam. Captain Delatte was in high spirits, and 
 kept playing tunes on a melodeon we had with us ; 
 talking, in the intervals, of his home at Brussels, 
 and his delight at soon seeing it again. Presently 
 he poured out three glasses of Portuguese wine, and 
 handed one to Lieutenant Dhanis, and the other 
 (under the mosquito-curtain) to me. I tasted it, 
 and passed it out again, with the remark, " It's too 
 strong ; put some Congo in it ! " He added a little 
 water, and said, " Hang it, man, it's pure water ! " 
 and I never heard him speak again ; for, soon after, 
 I turned over and went to sleep, with the strains 
 of " ^lyosotis," which I had asked him to play.
 
 76 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BANGALA. 
 
 ringing in my ears. Next morning, instead of being 
 called by him as usual, I slept on, till roused 
 by Lieutenant Dhanis, who came to me, with a 
 white, scared face, asking, " Where is the captain?" 
 " I don't know," I replied. " I believe he's in the 
 Congo," said Dhanis. Of course I was up like a 
 shot. Sure enough, there was the captain's bed — 
 his clothes, boots, hat, all lying beside it ; his mos- 
 quito-curtain untorn showed that nothing unusual 
 had taken place ; and he could not have got ashore 
 without awakening either Dhanis or myself, as the 
 boat was anchored with her bow to the bank. We 
 questioned the men, but none had seen or heard 
 anything save occasional splashes in the water — 
 which no one on the Congo ever heeds, as crocodiles 
 and hippopotami may be heard splashing all night 
 long. How" it happened will never be known till 
 the day of judgment ; w^e could only come to the 
 conclusion that he had got up in the night, fallen 
 over the stern of the boat, and gone down (being 
 unable to swim) without a cry — perhaps never 
 even rising to the surface a second time, as the 
 current is very strong. We searched the sand- 
 banks for miles down the river, and promised large 
 rewards to the natives for finding the captain's 
 body, or any traces of him, but in vain. It is very 
 seldom, if ever, that any traces have been found of 
 a white man drowned in the Congo. 
 
 We were compelled at length to proceed, having
 
 THE GREAT FOREST-PLAIN. 77 
 
 orders to reach Bangala before the Stanley. Though 
 neither Lieutenant Dhanis nor myself had ever been 
 on the Cono-o before, we had with us a Zanzibari 
 who had been all over the river with Stanley, and 
 knew the channels pretty well, and he now acted 
 as our pilot. The day after Delatte's death we left 
 the grass country for the forest region, and stopped 
 for the nio-ht near the deserted site of Lukolela 
 Station. Four days later we arrived at Equator 
 Station, where we found Mr Eddie, of the A.B.M.U., 
 in fairly good health, and leaving him the same 
 day, reached Bangala in about four days more, hav- 
 ing, ever since our departure from Lukolela, steamed 
 through the same flat, monotonous, forested country. 
 I do not say there is no beauty in this region, for 
 there is ; but it takes a little time to get used to 
 the dense jungle, and one's eyes must become accus- 
 tomed to distinguish one shape of leaf from another 
 before he can appreciate it. This needs more leisure 
 and comfort than one can at present command on 
 the Congo : besides, when viewed through the 
 jaundiced medium of African fever, no country 
 seems pleasant, and I daresay many a man would 
 fail to see any beauty even in far-famed Sydney 
 Harbour if his temperature were a few degrees 
 above normal. An artist usually picks out the 
 grandest or loveliest scenes for his pictures, and 
 people in Europe take a series of the views they 
 see in books, string them together in imagination
 
 78 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BAXGALA. 
 
 into one long, impossible landscape, and then are 
 disappointed with the reality. 
 
 It was nearly 7 p.m. on August 1st — ^just fifteen 
 days after leaving Leopoldville — that we reached 
 Bangala, and my first view of the place was not 
 enchanting. All I could see before me, in the dusk 
 of an African evening, when I stopped the boat, was 
 a steep mud-bank, with a house of the same material 
 at the top. I was tired, hungry, and ready to fall 
 asleep on my feet, and it was not particularly cheer- 
 ing to find that not a spare room was to be had 
 at the station. However, I slept soundly enough, 
 in spite of the mosquitoes, wrapped in my blanket, 
 on a native mat under the mess-room table. 
 
 Next day, as we were seated at lunch, a shout of 
 "Sail, oh!" from the Zanzibaris announced the 
 arrival of the Stanley. As she was bringing up 
 representatives of the Swedish and Italian Govern- 
 ments, Captain Coquilhat had ordered a military 
 reception ; and accordingly, as she steamed up to 
 the beach in front of the station, the Houssas and 
 Zanzibaris, drawn up in line, fired a volley from 
 their rifles, followed by a salute from the two 
 mountain Krupp guns belonging to the station. On 
 the bridge of the steamer stood CajDtain Coquilhat 
 and Lieutenant Dubois in full uniform, with the 
 two Italian captains and Baron Schwerin, also in 
 uniform, while the deck of the boat was crowded 
 with Houssas and Zanzibaris. Captain Coquilhat,
 
 THE " LORD OF MANY GUNS." 79 
 
 the founder of this station, was warmly welcomed 
 by the Ba-Ngala, who pressed round him in hun- 
 dreds to get a shake of his hand, and then went off 
 for a great drinking of malafii^ and massanga,'^ 
 to celebrate the arrival of the Stanley and the 
 return of " Mwafa," ^ as he was called by them. In 
 the evening the members of the Italian and Swedish 
 Expeditions, as well as the officers of the Stanley, 
 came up to the station to dinner. After we had 
 finished, and were all seated round the table talk- 
 ing, one of the mess-boys came in and told Cap- 
 tain Coquilhat that Mata Bwyki,* the chief of 
 Iboko, had come to see him ; and in walked one of 
 the bisfo-est black men I had ever seen. He was 
 three or four inches over six feet, and had a fine 
 well-developed figure, though he now looked shriv- 
 elled and wiry with age (he was reported to be 
 eighty-four or eighty-six), and had lost one eye, 
 which gave him a very one-sided expression. He 
 was said to have fifty wives, several of whom now 
 followed him, bearing native chairs and stools, as 
 well as sundry large pots of massanga. The scene 
 which now ensued was worth coming all the way 
 to Africa to see. The huge old cannibal stalked in, 
 smeared over with camwood-powder and palm- 
 oil, wearing a tall leopard-skin cap, which added 
 another foot to his stature, and with a long pole in 
 
 * Palm-wine. ' 2 Fermented juice of the sugar-cane. 
 
 3 " The Eagle." ^ " Lord of many Guns."
 
 80 LEOPOLD VILLE TO BANG ALA. 
 
 one hand, and walking up to Captain Coquilhat, 
 wlio was dressed in tlie full uniform of " Capitaine 
 d'Etat-Major de I'Etat Independant du Congo," 
 enfolded liim in his arms. From this bear's hug 
 Caj)tain Coquilhat emerged with great red patches 
 over his blue coat and gilt facings, and " Le Roi 
 des Ba-No-ala " turned his attention to the rest of 
 the company, who were doubtless as glad as I was 
 to escape with a shake of his huge paw, without 
 undergoing the same ceremony as the captain. 
 When he had gone the round of the table, his 
 wives brought the massanga -i^ots, and Mata 
 Bwyki began to pour the stuff down his throat 
 by quarts at a time. He was a tremendous toper, 
 and could consume enormous quantities of his 
 favourite beverage. 
 
 His death, which took place about two months 
 later, was an occasion of great excitement amongst 
 the Ba-Ngala. It is their custom, on the death of 
 a chief, to kill as many slaves over his grave as 
 the said chief had wives during his lifetime. Can- 
 nibal feasts were doubtless also indulged in, but this 
 has been disputed. Now Mata Bwyki had fifty 
 wives : fifty slaves had therefore to be provided 
 for the sacrifice — one by the parents of each wife.^ 
 This great massacre w^as, however, happily averted 
 by the officer in command of the station, who, 
 
 ^ The slaves were probably substitutes for the wives, who would 
 perhaps themselves have been sacrificed in former times.
 
 '.v;;| 
 
 ' ^. 
 
 ^ --r/ 
 
 
 
 ^^N^..V. 
 
 
 --< s 
 
 
 ^ ;^*.-:. 
 
 
 /" : 1^ 
 
 *v >,V'i'^\ f \-^'M^4 U'^^^ ■■■■ 
 
 
 
 4^ 
 
 
 '."§• 
 
 iMATA BWVKI. 
 
 pROiM A PhoTOGKAIU TAKEN BV CaPTAIN CoQUILHAT. 
 
 To face page 8o.
 
 FUNERAL HONOURS. 81 
 
 hearing of Mata Bwyki's death, prepared a huge 
 coffin lined with red savelist, and — having per- 
 suaded the Ba-Ngala that, as Mata Bwyki had 
 been the mundeles friend, it was only appropriate 
 that the white men should bury him — nailed him 
 safely up in the box, and interred him with all due 
 honours, such as the firing-off of guns, &c., over his 
 grave. The Ba-Ngala were, however, not to be 
 done ; for we found out, a long time afterwards, 
 that they had sacrificed ten slaves in another 
 village. Still, this was better than killing fifty. 
 Another custom of the Ba-Ngala is to cut open 
 a dead man, and examine his liver and kidneys, 
 to see if he has been poisoned. I am not aware 
 whether this w^as done in i\Iata Bwyki's case. 
 
 This huge savage had developed a remarkable 
 affection for Captain Cocjuilhat ; and I afterwards 
 heard that, when he was dying, he kept asking 
 when the latter (who had gone to Stanley Falls) 
 was coming back, as he wished to see him. Perhaps 
 even this hardened old warrior and man-eater had 
 a presentiment of death, and, knowing nothing of 
 the world to come, wished to see the only person 
 on earth whom he considered superior to himself. 
 Who knows ? 
 
 After the mctssanga was finished, Mata Bwyki 
 left in order to superintend a grand dance which 
 was going on in the village, au clair de la lune. 
 
 F
 
 82 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BANG ALA. 
 
 We all followed him to a clear space in the centre 
 of the village, where there was a large fire, which 
 two or three men kept feeding with dry palm- 
 fronds, so as to make a blaze. In front of this 
 fire were two rows of natives, one of men and the 
 other of women ; and on the other side was the 
 band, consisting of three or four huge tom-toms, 
 from which several men were extracting a fearful 
 noise. The dusky figures of the Ba-Ngala, flitting 
 backwards and forwards across the firelight, as they 
 went through the complicated figures of a native 
 dance, formed a very pretty sight ; and the moon, 
 (which was nearly full) shining through the fronds 
 of the palm and banana trees around, gave a very 
 Macbeth-caldron-business efl'ect to the whole scene, 
 the combination of moonlio;ht and smoke havino- 
 very much the efl'ect of the gauze screens used in 
 theatres to make the ghost in "Hamlet" appear 
 and disappear when wanted. 
 
 After staying two days to get a good supply of 
 dry wood for fuel, the Stanley left for the Falls, 
 the two Italian captains and Baron Schwerin going 
 with her, as well as Lieutenant Dubois, who was 
 appointed to Stanley FaUs Station. 
 
 I now began to think of shaking down into my 
 new quarters. Two new houses were being built, 
 but as these were as yet but half finished, and the 
 house we at present inhabited was very full — being 
 only constructed to hold two Europeans and their
 
 DANGEROUS QUARTERS. 83 
 
 stores — I had to make myself at home (for the 
 present, at least) in the gun-room, while Lieutenant 
 Dhanis was relegated to the provision-store. For 
 more than a month I slept on a bedstead formed 
 of two planks supported at either end on a barrel 
 which, on examination, I found to contain charges 
 of powder for the two Krupp guns ; while boxes of 
 cartridges, cans of turpentine, and a goodly variety 
 of inflammable materials, were in close proximity. 
 Reading in bed was, of course, too dangerous a pro- 
 ceeding to be indulged in under these circumstances ; 
 and even taking a naked light into the room would 
 have been a hazardous experiment had I not made 
 myself acquainted with the position of the various 
 items, and carefully covered up the most dangerous. 
 One night, while a regular tropical thunderstorm 
 was raging. Captain Coquilhat entered and advised 
 me to come outside till the storm was over, as he 
 was afraid I might get shot by the lightning ignit- 
 ing the cartridges ; but as the danger was about 
 the same in any part of the house — since the barrels 
 of powder would have blown the whole station into 
 the middle of the Conoro — I could see no advantage 
 in a change of quarters, but preferred remaining 
 comfortably in bed where I was, so thanked him 
 and went to sleep. I had slept in too many strange 
 places lately to be kept awake by the chance of 
 being blown up. 
 
 This house had been built by Captain Coquilliat
 
 84 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BANG ALA. 
 
 when he was left here by Stanley in January 1884, 
 and considering the limited tools at his disposal, 
 it does him great credit, for it has successfully re- 
 sisted all attacks of the natives — the cannibal river- 
 pirates, whose fleet of war-canoes tried to bar Stan- 
 ley's passage in 1877. It is built of "wattle and 
 daub," the woven branches, supported by firm up- 
 right posts, being plastered over with the clay of 
 the country, which becomes extremely hard when 
 baked in the sun, and renders the whole fireproof. 
 The ceiling is formed of logs laid right across from 
 wall to wall, with an eight-inch layer of clay spread 
 all over them ; and over all is a roof of palm-leaves, 
 supported on pillars standing at a distance of eight 
 feet from the walls, and forming a verandah all 
 round. This roof can be set on fire and burnt 
 right ofi" — indeed, I believe this has happened — 
 without injuring the rest of the building in the 
 slightest degree ; and thus the great native weapon 
 — fire — is rendered harmless. The windows are 
 small, barred, and placed very high up ; and so long 
 as ammunition lasted, three or four white men could 
 hold the place against all the tribes on the Congo. 
 The two doors are the weak point, but could, in case 
 of need, be defended by the two Krupp guns. 
 
 The new houses were being constructed on the 
 same principle, but were larger, and in a better 
 position — being situated on higher ground, 200 or 
 300 yards down the river.
 
 ■^^^f^^ip 
 
 
 
 ^, 
 
 
 w 
 
 n 
 
 J.. 
 
 r^-^t. 
 
 '^--•- — :^~-.
 
 THE BA-NGALA. 85 
 
 Bangala was at this time pretty well off for fresh 
 meat, fowls and goats being plentiful and cheap. 
 But this state of things did not last very long, and, 
 as at Leopoldville, the supply could not keep pace 
 with the demand, when the number of Europeans 
 in the station increased. Long before my time was 
 finished there was hardly a fowl to be had in the 
 neighbouring villages, and the chief of the station 
 had to send men a journey of two or three days to 
 get any. The supply of goats held out longer, but 
 even these grew scarcer and dearer at last. About 
 150 had been preserved for their milk, but even 
 these were beginning to meet their inevitable fate 
 before I finally left the station on my way home. 
 
 The Ba-Ngala are a fine race physically, tall, 
 powerful, and splendidly formed, — the women 
 being the handsomest I have seen in Africa. Their 
 dress is scanty, consisting, for the most part, only 
 of a waist-cloth for the men and a short kilt of 
 grass for the women. They cicatrise their arms, 
 shoulders, and busts in patterns by cutting the 
 skin and injecting some irritant. Sometimes the 
 result looks very well; but in other cases the pro- 
 cess is not successful, and raises huge unsightly 
 lumps of flesh. 
 
 That the Ba - Ngala were cannibals. Captain 
 Coquilhat had ample proof during the first few 
 months of his residence among them. One day 
 a canoe came down the river and stopped just in
 
 86 LEOPOLDVILLE TO BANGALA. 
 
 front of the station ; and from this canoe the 
 natives brought several large pots, which were 
 found on inspection to contain portions of human 
 arms and legs. Before I had been in the place 
 three weeks, I was one night aroused by a great 
 shouting and beating of tom-toms. On inquiring 
 the cause of the row, I was informed that the Ba- 
 Ngala were celebrating some event with a feast 
 of human flesh. One old chief, I was told, had 
 about twenty wives, and had been known occasion- 
 ally to kill and feast off" one of them. This chief, 
 when I saw him, was a much milder-looking man 
 than Mata Bwyki ; and had the latter been the 
 same way inclined, I am afraid his fifty wives 
 would scarcely have sufiiced to keep him going.
 
 87 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 NEWS BROUGHT BY THE STAXLEY — HISTORY OP FALLS STATION — 
 TREATY BETWEEN WESTER AND THE ARABS — TIPPOO TIP — MR 
 DEANE WOUNDED ON HIS WAY UP RIVER TO TAKE COMMAND — 
 VAN GfeLE SENT OUT, BUT INVALIDED TO MADEIRA — DEANE GOES 
 A SECOND TIME — CONTRADICTORY NATURE OF HIS ORDERS — THE 
 RUNAWAY SLAVE — STATION ATTACKED — DESERTERS REACH BAN- 
 GALA — PALAVER WITH THE BA-NGALA — WE START TO RELIEVE 
 DEANE — DIVERSITY OF SENTIMENTS AMONG THE PEOPLE OP 
 UPOTO — DEFECTIVE CARTRIDGES — YAMBUNGA — CAPTIVES RE- 
 STORED — WAR-DRUMS — ORERa's MISFORTUNES — TRACES OF THE 
 SLAVE-RAIDERS — THE FRIENDLY NATIVES OF YARUKOMBE — CAP- 
 TAIN COQUILHAT's sufferings — GLIMPSE OF STANLEY FALLS — 
 THE BAKUMU AND THEIR INFORMATION — DUBOIS DROWNED — 
 THE STATION IN RUINS — THE A.I.A. IN A FIX — WE RETREAT — 
 SAMBA — SEARCH FOR DEANE — DEANE SAFE AT YARUKOMBE — 
 SKIRMISH AT YAPORO — ATTENDING THE WOUNDED — DEANE's 
 STORY — RETURN TO BANGALA — THE HENRY REED — THE FEARFUL 
 AND WONDERFUL DECREES OF THE COMITA AT BRUSSELS — DE- 
 PARTURE FOR L^OPOLDVILLE — COQUILHAT AND DEANE INVALIDED 
 HOME — samba's HISTORY. 
 
 Towards the end of August the Stanley unex- 
 pectedly reappeared, having accomplished the up- 
 journey to Stanley Falls in the remarkably quick 
 time of twelve days. After staying four or five
 
 88 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 days at that place, she had made the return trip in 
 seven days. The news she brought was not re- 
 assuring. Mr Walter Deane, commander of the 
 Falls Station, had been fighting the Arabs ; and 
 although hostilities had been brought to a close on 
 the Stanley's arrival, the captain and officers of the 
 steamer were of opinion that the Arabs would again 
 attack ]\Ir Deane, as soon as he was left alone with 
 only one other European (Lieutenant Dubois) and 
 eighty black men, of whom only forty were Houssas, 
 and the rest undisciplined Ba-Ngala. 
 
 In order to understand this — one of the most 
 heroic struggles against slave-traders on record, 
 and worthy to rank with the defence of Khartoum 
 by General Gordon — it will be necessary to take a 
 short survey of the history of Stanley Falls Station. 
 
 Had Mr Deane been well supplied with arms 
 and men when he was sent to his dangerous post, 
 and been allowed to act on his own responsibility, 
 instead of being hampered by contradictory orders 
 from Europe — which only reached Stanley Falls 
 some six months after they were written, when 
 the state of afi'airs at that post had completely 
 changed — the Arabs would never have gained a 
 footing west of the Seventh Cataract, and the 
 natives of the Aruhwimi would still be living in 
 their villages, instead of being scattered through 
 the forest and decimated by the slavers. 
 
 In December 1883, Stanley, having made ar-
 
 MR. WALTER DEANE. 
 
 THE DEFENDER OF STANLEY FALLS STATION. 
 
 Frntn a photOf'>aph.
 
 BINNIE AND WESTER. 89 
 
 rano-ements with the Arabs, and obtained from 
 the natives of the district a site on the island of 
 Wana Rusari, left Binnie, the engineer of the Royal, 
 to build a station, and departed for the coast, 
 taking with him several confidential slaves of the 
 Arabs, in order to show them the white men's 
 settlements and their mode of trading. 
 
 Binnie remained alone at Stanley Falls till July 
 1884, when he was relieved by Captain Hanssens, 
 who brought up the Swedish Lieutenant Wester, 
 and the Belgian, Amelot, to take his place. Binnie, 
 who had during his stay at the Falls been on very 
 good terms with both Arabs and natives, returned 
 down river with Captain Hanssens. In October of 
 the same year. Lieutenant Wester made a treaty 
 with the Arabs, by which they bound themselves 
 not to descend below the Seventh Cataract of 
 Stanley Falls, or enter the Free State territory, 
 either to fight, trade, or seize slaves or ivory. The 
 division-line west of which the Arabs were not to 
 come was to be drawn north and south through the 
 Seventh Cataract, and peace was to be kept be- 
 tween Arabs and white men. This treaty was signed 
 by one of Tippoo Tip's sons, and also by Karema 
 and Kajumba — the former of whom was at Yaporo 
 when Stanley came up to found the station. The 
 natives round the station were also parties to this 
 treaty, and j^iaced themselves under the j)^^otection 
 of the State jiag.
 
 90 THE LOSS OF STANLE? FALLS. 
 
 Hardly had this treaty been concluded, when the 
 Bismarck of Central Africa, Tippoo Tip, chief of all 
 the slave-raiding gangs between Tanganika and the 
 Lualaba, arrived upon the scene with a large force, 
 and informed Wester that he had been sent by 
 Said Barghash, Sultan of Zanzibar, to prevent the 
 Arabs from disposing of their ivory to traders 
 coming up the Congo. The confidential slaves 
 taken down river by Stanley had made good use 
 of their five senses, and their report had reached 
 the ears of the Sultan through Tippoo Tip, who 
 was much too sharp an Arab not to try and obtain 
 for himself the profit to be gained from the enor- 
 mous quantities of ivory of which his men had told 
 him on their return. Finding out, also, from these 
 men (for an Arab, while seeming to be utterly in- 
 difi"erent to all that passes round him, will miss 
 nothing), the exact strength of the Power he had 
 to deal with, he probably represented to the Sultan 
 that, if this new enterprise of Stanley's were al- 
 lowed to succeed, the trade of Zanzibar would be 
 ruined. It seems pretty certain that Said Barghash 
 had supplied Tippoo with men and goods ; but 
 whether this was for the purpose of driving the 
 Europeans from Stanley Falls, or whether the 
 Sultan had really given him the instructions he 
 alleged, still remains, as far as I can make out, a 
 mystery to the public. 
 
 Tippoo completely ignored the treaty Wester
 
 VAN GELE AND TIPPOO. 91 
 
 had concluded with the other Arabs, and declared 
 himself ready to fight ; but Wester, not being 
 strong enough to risk hostilities, let things take 
 their course until he should have an opportunity 
 of communicating with the Administrator-General 
 at Boma ; and Tippoo, finding he was not inter- 
 fered with, promised not to attack any of the State 
 stations. 
 
 In January 1885, Captain Van Gele arrived at 
 Stanley Falls with supplies for the station, and 
 had a long palaver with Tippoo Tip, in which the 
 latter (probably on the same principle on which 
 the Pope, in 1493, divided the unexplored part of 
 the world between Spain and Portugal) claimed 
 the whole of Africa, from Zanzibar to Banana, on 
 behalf of Said Barghash, who had sent him to 
 make a report on it, and prevent the Arabs from 
 sending their ivory down the Congo. All that Van 
 Gele could do was to try and gain time. He suc- 
 ceeded in getting from Tippoo Tip a promise to 
 recall his men, and then left for Boma, to report 
 on the state of affairs to the Administrator- General. 
 
 The decision of the authorities was to fortify the 
 Falls station so strongly that it would be in a posi- 
 tion to resist any attack; and, in June 1885, Mr 
 Walter Deane left Leopoldville with a company 
 of men, to take command. Just below the mouth 
 of the Aruhwimi is a long narrow branch of the 
 Congo, called the Monongiri channel, on the banks
 
 92 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 of which lives one of the most piratical tribes of the 
 whole river. These people represent in Africa the 
 Thugs of India, and will never attack except from 
 behind, or in the dark, and then only in superior 
 numbers. Mr Deane, in passing through this chan- 
 nel, was overtaken by night, and obliged to camp ; 
 when, at midnight, the natives suddenly attacked 
 him, and killed several of his men, almost before he 
 knew that anything was wrong — as they had crept 
 up quietly through the bushes, and speared his 
 sentries. Deane himself received a wound in the 
 thigh, and a spear right through the calf of his leg, 
 and pulling this spear out of the wound, defended 
 himself with it till his gun w^as brought to him. 
 According to my Houssa informant, he killed the 
 man who had thrown it with his own weapon. 
 
 This wound compelled him, on arriving at the 
 Falls, to leave the command to Wester, and return 
 down-stream to Leopoldville, where he reported 
 that Tippoo had so far kept his word that the Arabs 
 had withdrawn to the country east of the Seventh 
 Cataract, and that no raids had taken place. In 
 December 1885, Van Gele arrived at Stanley Pool 
 from Brussels, to take command of an expedition 
 to the Falls, but was prostrated by so severe an 
 attack of bilious fever that he was obliged to 
 leave Africa to regain his health, and Deane, 
 though stiU suffering from the effects of his 
 wound, consented to remain another year on the
 
 DEANE PINNED TO THE GROUND. 93 
 
 Congfo, and return to the Falls till either Van Gele 
 was restored to health or some one else appointed 
 in his place. 
 
 He left Leopoldville in the Stanley in December 
 1885, with Lieutenant Eycken and forty Houssas, 
 and, after picking up forty Ba-Ngala at Iboko, in 
 January, he reached the Falls about the middle of 
 February 1886. It was, I believe, on this journey ^ 
 that he was again treacherously attacked, while buy- 
 ing provisions from the natives of Mpeza — who, 
 tempted by the sight of quantities of brass wire, 
 beads, &c., suddenly began throwing spears at 
 Deane's men, in order to create a panic, during 
 which they could possess themselves of the coveted 
 goods without paying for them. Deane, shouting 
 to his men not to fire, advanced without his gun, in 
 order to try and arrange matters peaceably. He 
 would probably have succeeded, had not a little dog 
 he had with him taken ofi'ence at the threatening 
 attitude of the natives, and rushed at them. The 
 result of this was a shower of spears, one of which 
 passed through the edge of Deane's boot, and 
 another through his trousers, pinning him to the 
 ground. His men then commenced to fire, and he 
 remained in that position till his gun was brought 
 him, when, to use his own words, he " lost his temper 
 
 ' I had this account from Mr Deane himself, and then understood 
 that lie was at the time on board the Baptist Mission steamer Peace, 
 so cannot give the exact date when it happened.
 
 94 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 and let fly." The spears, fortunately, had not 
 wounded him. 
 
 At the beginning of 1886, then, Mr Deane took 
 over the command of Stanley Falls Station. The 
 spirit of his orders was, that he was to afford pro- 
 tection to the natives, to do all in his power to pre- 
 vent raids and put down the slave-trade, and to 
 keep on good terms ivith the Arabs. These orders 
 — while hampering Deane, and preventing his using 
 his own judgment as to whether it would or would 
 not be better to shelve the question of protecting 
 the natives till he was stronsj enough to drive 
 out the Arabs — left those in authority a loophole 
 of escape from all responsibility in the matter. 
 Had Deane kept on good terms with the Arabs, 
 he could not possibly have aflforded protection to 
 the natives; whereas it was a manifest impossibility 
 to protect the natives without offending the Arabs, 
 who were all on the look-out for a casus belli. The 
 disastrous result of Deane's attempt to carry out 
 these orders to the letter is only too well known ; 
 and I have heard him complain bitterly of being 
 put in a position in which he was not allowed to 
 act on his own judgment. His orders were such 
 as to admit of two diametrically opposite inter- 
 pretations : he was not properly supported, and 
 did not receive the men and ammunition promised 
 him in case he should be forced to fight. Yet, 
 when all was over, and he had all but sacrificed
 
 DEANE LEFT ALONE. 95 
 
 his life, he was greatly blamed for the way in 
 which he had acted, and as good as told that he 
 had adopted the worst possible course. 
 
 In June 1886, the Baptist Mission steamer 
 Peace reached Leopoldville, bringing from Stanley 
 Falls Mr Baumann, a member of Dr Lenz's ex- 
 pedition, who had been taken ill and left behind 
 at Stanley Falls, and Eycken. The latter was in 
 a dying condition with dysentery, and did not 
 live long after his arrival. She also brought de- 
 spatches from Mr Deane, who announced that 
 Tippoo had gone to Zanzibar, and that relations 
 with the other Arabs were becoming somewhat 
 strained. 
 
 From Mr Charters, the engineer of the Peace, 
 I had a rough account of the events that had 
 occurred at the Falls since February, up to the 
 time of the steamer's departure. All had, it seems, 
 gone faii'ly well till a few weeks before the Peace 
 arrived, when a woman came to Mr Deane and 
 asked his protection against the Arabs. Deane, 
 having no positive proof of ill-treatment, wished 
 to send her back, but eventually allowed her to 
 remain in the station till her master came to claim 
 her, which he did shortly afterwards. Having 
 failed to ransom her, Deane allowed him to take 
 her away, on condition that she should not be 
 flogged or otherwise ill - treated for asking his 
 protection.
 
 96 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 A. few days later the woman returned to him, 
 covered with wounds,^ on which he refused to give 
 her u^ unless she returned to her master of her own 
 free w^ill. He, however, offered a ransom, which was 
 again rejected. While matters were in this state, 
 the Peace arrived, with Messrs Grenfell, Charters, 
 and Eddie on board. Bwana Nzige,- Tippoo Tip's 
 brother and deputy, at a palaver where the three 
 missionaries were present, again demanded the 
 woman from Mr Deane, who replied that she 
 must choose for herself, and that, although he 
 was willing to keep on friendly terms with the 
 Arabs, as an Englishman he would not, and as 
 an officer of the State he could not, give her up.^ 
 Bwana Nzige then asked if Deane wished to risk 
 his head, and the latter replied that he did not 
 consider his head in any danger, and was well 
 able to take care of it himself. Bwana Nzige de- 
 parted in a rage, and shortly afterwards the Peace 
 left for Leopoldville, taking away Baumann and 
 Eycken, and leaving Deane entirely alone among 
 his enemies, with only forty half-disciplined men 
 and forty utter savages to depend on in case of 
 attack. No more was heard of affairs at the Falls 
 
 1 When Deane himself, after his rescue, related the story to me, 
 he told me the woman had been tied up for two or three days, 
 receiving a hundred lashes each day. 
 
 2 " Master Locust." 
 
 3 His own words were, " As an Englishman / ityill not, and as an 
 officer of the State / cannot, give her up."
 
 HOSTILITIES COMMENCE. 97 
 
 till the Stanley returned to Bangala, August 
 30th, 1886. 
 
 As before stated, I had arrived in Africa towards 
 the end of May in the same year, and first met 
 Captain Coquilhat at Boma — he having left Belgium 
 some two or three months before me. Captain 
 Van Gele's health not allowing of his immediate 
 return to his post, Captain Coquilhat received orders 
 to take command pro tern, of the Falls, in addition 
 to his own station of Bangala, — and was intrusted 
 by the Administrator-General with the necessary 
 powers. These orders were shortly afterwards fol- 
 lowed by another, relieving him from the command 
 of the Falls Station, which was left entirely to Mr 
 Deane. 
 
 Captain Coquilhat was not aware till the return 
 of the Stanley that Deane was short of ammunition, 
 as the latter's request for cartridges had gone direct 
 to Boma. Consequently, when the Stanley left 
 Leopoldville in July, she only took as many as were 
 considered necessary for her own protection. 
 
 Just before her arrival at the Falls, hostilities had 
 broken out in earnest, the Arabs having seized on 
 one of the women belonging to the station, and 
 fired on some of the Houssas sent by Deane with 
 a message to Bwana Nzige. 
 
 On the arrival of the Stanley, a few days later, 
 the Arabs ofi'ered to make peace, and the captain of 
 the Stanley, having left Deane about 300 Snider 
 
 G
 
 98 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 cartridges — all he could spare — came down to Ban- 
 gala, and reported the state of affairs to Captain 
 Coquilhat.^ Hamberg, the engineer of the Stanley, 
 told me his opinion was that the Arabs would again 
 attack the station, as he had seen numerous large 
 parties of their men continually arriving in canoes. 
 His fears were only too well founded. On Septem- 
 ber 3d, the Stanley left Bangala for Leopoldville. 
 Two or three days later, I had retired to my bed 
 on the top of the powder-barrels, and gone to sleep, 
 when I was disturbed by the barking of some dogs. 
 Being pretty sleepy, I merely struck a light and 
 glanced at my watch to see if it was near dawn. 
 Finding it only a little past midnight, I was turn- 
 ing over to go to sleep again, when I was thorough- 
 ly aroused by hearing Captain Coquilhat — whom 
 I knew to be very ill — come out of his room and 
 besjin talkinoj to some one, half in Eno;lish, half in 
 Kiswahili, My first thought was that the Arabs, 
 
 1 It was fully a year later, after Mr Deane had been to Europe 
 and returned again to the Congo, that I heard all the foregoing 
 narrative of what occurred after his arrival at Stanley Falls, in 
 February 1886, from his own lips. When I started up river with 
 Captain Coquilhat to Deane's relief, I was in utter ignorance of the 
 real position of affairs at the Falls ; and as the captain was at this 
 time very ill, I learnt very little until Deane became strong enough 
 to tell me. Even then, the time I was with him before he left for 
 Europe was too short for him to give me the narrative in full. 
 Captain Coquilhat, in his work, ' Sur le Haut Congo,' has given a 
 very full account of the history of Stanley Falls Station from first to 
 last. I would advise any one who wishes to understand the whole 
 affair to read this work.
 
 A NIGHT ALARM. 99 
 
 having disposed of Falls Station, had descended the 
 river ; and, like a shot, I seized my revolver, and in 
 a moment more was standing, in my 'pyjamas, be- 
 hind Captain Coquilhat at the front door. Seeing 
 only two or three Houssas, who were talking calm- 
 ly to the captain, I was beginning to feel rather 
 ashamed of my alarm, when I heard something about 
 white men arriving next day. Captain Coquilhat 
 continued his questioning — though I did not catch 
 much more, as the Houssa he was speaking to was 
 not very well up in English — and then, turning to 
 me, informed me that Falls Station was probably 
 lost, and that, as I would be of no use that night, 
 and should probably be worked hard enough next 
 day, I had better return to bed. Being very tired 
 and sleepy, I obeyed, and was soon in a deep slumber, 
 whence I was aroused at daylight by a confused 
 tumult of voices. Running out, I found Captain 
 Coquilhat in the midst of a group of Houssas, among 
 them several in red shirts, who did not seem to be- 
 long to the station. The captain was eagerly 
 questioning, through an interpreter, a half-starved, 
 miserable-looking nigger, who had been bound hand 
 and foot, and only just released, and was hardly 
 strong enough to return answers to the questions 
 put to him. This poor wretch, I discovered, was a 
 prisoner taken from the Arabs, and had been so 
 ill-treated by the Houssas on their way down that 
 he only lived till next day. I soon became aware
 
 100 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 that there were ten Houssas from Stanley Falls in 
 the station, and Captain Coquilhat came and told 
 me that these ten men and the forty Ba-Ngala had 
 come down by themselves, and that their original 
 statement — that the white men were following them 
 — was untrue. He then ordered me not to leave 
 the house, while he went with Messrs Baert and 
 Dhanis into the village to try and find out the truth 
 from the Ba-Ngala. In about an hour he returned 
 with two or three men, carrying some bales of cloth 
 and rolls of brass wire, and, informing me that the 
 Houssas had deserted Deane, ordered me to bring- 
 out the spare anchor-chains of the A. I. A., and put 
 them in irons. As the chains were not at hand, I 
 brought out some rope, and nine of the Houssas 
 were promptly bound hand and foot, in a circle, 
 round the trunk of a palm-tree, and some men with 
 guns set to guard them. The tenth, who was the 
 corporal, Mahomed Tenne — the man whom I had 
 heard talking to Captain Coquilhat in the night — 
 was handcuffed to one of the posts supporting the 
 roof of the mess-room ; and a court-martial was at 
 once formed, consisting of Captain Coquilhat, Lieu- 
 tenants Baert and Dhanis, myself, two Zanzibaris, 
 and two Houssas, to try him for desertion. It now 
 came out that not only had Mahomed Tenne, his nine 
 men, and the Ba-Ngala, deserted Deane, but they 
 had also plundered the station store, and that there 
 were, in the village, Snider rifles and bales of goods.
 
 A COURT-MARTIAL. 101 
 
 which they had brought down in the night. It could 
 not be definitely ascertained whether Deane and 
 Dubois had left the station, or were still holding 
 out ; there seemed to have been a general saicve qui 
 petit among the Ba-Ngala, and contradictory reports 
 came from every witness. 
 
 The court-martial was brought to an end, and a 
 palaver held with the Ba-Ngala, in which the latter 
 refused to give up the goods they had brought 
 down from the Falls. Thino^s now began to look 
 serious, and a row with the Ba-Ngala seemed 
 imminent. The two Krupp guns were turned 
 round from the river with their muzzles towards 
 the village, and some men set to work the ramrods 
 in and out, in order to make the natives think 
 they were loading them. At last the Ba-Ngala 
 yielded, and the guns and other goods w^ere re- 
 turned, and then we saw from what they brought in 
 that some great disaster must have happened, and 
 that the two Europeans, if not already dead, must 
 be holding their own at a very great disadvantage. 
 It also came out that the Houssas and Ba-Ngala 
 had attacked a village on their way down river, 
 and captured eight women and children. These 
 were also handed over to Captain Coquilhat. 
 
 I had in the meantime been getting the steamer 
 ready, and, on the 11th, Captain Coquilhat and 
 myself went on board with thirty-two men — nine 
 of whom were deserters from the Falls. The
 
 102 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 corporal, Mahomed Tenne, was put in irons and 
 chained up inside the house, — Captain Coquilhat 
 givinor orders that he was not to be released till 
 we had returned from Stanley Falls and his guilt 
 or innocence was proved. We only took three 
 Zanzibaris, and these because they were the only 
 men who knew how to work the steamer. There 
 were also three Ba-Ngala, one of whom, named 
 Dua, afterwards attached himself to the station in 
 the capacity of interpreter ; the rest of our men 
 were Houssas. 
 
 The Stanley had brought up from Leopoldville a 
 whale-boat 30 feet Ions;. This was now lashed 
 alongside the little A. I. A., and both boats were 
 heavily loaded with arms, men, ammunition, and 
 provisions. We also took on board the eight 
 women and children captured by the Ba-Ngala, as 
 Captain Coquilhat intended, if possible, to restore 
 them to their homes. These, together with our- 
 selves and our two boys, made a total of forty- 
 four, — no light load for our little steamer. It 
 must be remembered that, at this time. Captain 
 Coquilhat's orders were to leave the command 
 of Stanley Falls entirely to Mr Deane ; and that, 
 although he had been for some days suffering 
 severely from dysentery, he did not for a second 
 hesitate to act on his ow^n responsibilit)'' and 
 good judgment, and started off with only thirty- 
 two men — some of whom were not to be de-
 
 STATE OF OUR AMMUNITION. 103 
 
 pended upon — to tlie rescue of his brother offi- 
 cers at the Falls. 
 
 We reached the strongly fortified village of 
 Ikolungu on the second day, and Upoto on the 
 sixth or seventh. As we passed the latter place, 
 we were much surprised to find that, while in one 
 village the natives appeared friendly, and invited 
 us to come and buy food, their neighbours got up 
 a furious war-dance, and waved spears and shields 
 at us. Captain Coquilhat told me his opinion was 
 that the Houssas and Ba-Ngala had attacked some 
 of these villages as they passed down the river, 
 and that he would stop and inquire into the 
 matter on his return, as he could not depend on 
 the Snider cartridges on board being good. Up 
 to this time I had heard nothing about the bad 
 cartridges, and it was not till some days later that 
 I realised the full gravity of the situation, and 
 learnt that many of the cartridges Mr Deane had 
 had at the Falls had failed to explode, and that, 
 before leaving Bangala, the Houssas had come 
 to Captain Coquilhat and declared themselves ready 
 to do anything he wished, provided he would give 
 them good cartridges. Some of these cartridges 
 were undoubtedly bad in themselves, as they were 
 in their original air-tight soldered cases till I took 
 them out for use, and looked perfectly good — and 
 yet missed fire by the dozen. I believe the defect 
 was in the caps, as, after our return to Bangala,
 
 104 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 I extracted some of them and placed them on an 
 anvil, and they failed to explode when struck with 
 a hammer. The majority, however, had become 
 damp through having the air-tight cases cut open 
 for examination at Boma, and then being re-packed 
 in wooden boxes without re-soldering the zinc 
 cases. When, a few days later, on nearing the 
 Falls, I opened case after case, and found the zinc 
 lining cut and the cartridges covered with verdi- 
 gris, I felt very much like shooting all the cartridge 
 manufacturers and packers in creation. 
 
 Some days after this we arrived at Yambunga, a 
 villa o;e standing; on an island. This beino; the 
 place whence the Houssas had captured the women 
 and children, Captain Coquilhat restored them to 
 their friends, and the natives made him a present 
 of goats and fowls. This was a very gratifying 
 exchange, and left us a little more room in the 
 crowded boats. 
 
 On September 22d, twelve days after leaving 
 Bangala, we reached the mouth of the Aruhwimi, 
 and became familiar with the boom of the great 
 war-drums, used by the tribes round Stanley Falls 
 as more civilised nations use the electric telegraph.^ 
 That the country was now thoroughly aroused was 
 
 ^ These drams can be heard for a distance of about two miles. 
 Before I understood the Ba-Ngala language, Dua used to indicate 
 to me that we were approaching a village by imitating the action of 
 beating one of these drums loudly or softly, according to the distance 
 we were from the place.
 
 CONTRADICTORY INFORMATION. 105 
 
 evident, for tliese drums boomed almost continu- 
 ously day and night. Dua, who had previously 
 been in this country, was now constantly employed 
 in shouting questions to the natives, to which they 
 returned very contradictory answers, some assert- 
 ing one thing and some another. Comparing one 
 statement with another, the information received 
 seemed, on the whole, to amount to this — that 
 Deane had beaten off the Arabs, and was holding 
 out ; but this, from what we already knew, we 
 could scarcely believe. Captain Coquilhat's boy, 
 Katembo, who was a native of these parts, also 
 tried questioning the people, but with no better 
 success. 
 
 I had at this time a very fat, porpoise-like boy, 
 who came from a villasje a little above the Aruh- 
 wimi. This boy acted as cook, and had orders 
 from Captain Coquilhat to extinguish the fire every 
 night, after he had finished cooking our dinner. 
 One night, about the time we were passing the 
 Aruhwimi, he had the fire still alight, with a pot 
 of boiling water on the top, and the captain ordered 
 him to extinguish it. He threw a little water on 
 the fire, and, as the captain walked away, stooped 
 down, and tried to blow up the embers into a flame 
 again. Happening to look round, and seeing how 
 his orders w^ere being obeyed. Captain Coquilhat 
 returned, and the boy, in his hurry to escape, 
 upset himself on the top of his fire and the pot
 
 106 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 of boiling water. Witli one bound and a yell he 
 leapt overboard, and lay howling in about two 
 feet of water. Captain Coquilhat, fearing he might 
 get drowned, called out to me, and with the help 
 of three or four Houssas I hauled him into the 
 steamer. He was fearfully scalded, and in rolling 
 about in the water, had got the burns covered with 
 sand, which must have given him terrible pain. I 
 then cleaned his wounds, and dressed them with 
 oil. So much for the burning ; now for the result. 
 A few days later we came to Orera's native village ; 
 and the inhabitants, seeing him lying in the bow 
 of the steamer — his black skin piebald from the 
 scalding he had received — wanted to buy him of 
 Captain Coquilhat for culinary purposes, on the 
 plea that he was fine and fat, nearly dead, and 
 already half-cooked ! 
 
 Ever since we left Bangala, Captain Coquilhat 
 had been getting worse instead of better. He 
 could eat nothing but a little soup, and I began 
 to fear he would not be able to hold out till we 
 reached Kinsi Katini.^ As we approached the 
 Falls, we discovered plenty of traces of the slave- 
 raiders —whole villages burned to the ground, and 
 the natives living in canoes, hidden along the 
 wooded banks or on the islands in the river, 
 besides the tales told us everywhere of the 
 cruelty of the Arabs — tales of wanton murder, 
 
 1 The Zanzibar! name for Stanley Falls.
 
 NEARIXG STANLEY FALLS. 107 
 
 and women and children floo-o-ed to deatli in slieer 
 brutality. 
 
 Soon after passing the Loniami we came on an 
 Arab camp at Yaporo, and were saluted with a 
 shower of shot ; but as we were quite out of range, 
 it took no effect, and being in haste to reach the 
 Falls, we reserved our reply for a future occasion, 
 and passed on. Next day we passed several vil- 
 lages, but the natives were shy and frightened, 
 and would not sell us food. At last, having passed 
 all the islands, and reached a part of the Congo 
 where it ran between hio-h banks in one united 
 stream, we came to Yarukombe. Right opposite, 
 on the south bank, is another village called Ya- 
 tuka. As the natives of Yarukombe seemed dis- 
 posed to be friendly. Captain Coquilhat stopped 
 here, and made the chief a large present. About 
 three hours after leaving this place, when passing 
 Chioba island, we suddenly struck a rock right in 
 the centre of the channel, but did no damage be- 
 yond a slight dent in one of the bow-plates of the 
 whale-boat. 
 
 On the morning of September 26th, we steamed 
 past the mouth of the Lukebu, and approached 
 Stanley Falls. Captain Coquilhat was so much 
 worse, that I thought he could scarcely live more 
 than two or three days longer, and what made mat- 
 ters still more distressinsf was the fact that I could 
 do nothinsr for him. As we neared the Falls he
 
 108 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 roused liimself, and taking liis captain's coat and 
 cap from his box, put tliem on, in order that, if 
 lie met Bwana Nzige, or any other Arab chief, he 
 might appear in his official capacity. He then 
 lay down, and so weak did he seem that I hardly 
 thought he would be able to stand up again. 
 Shortly after this, one of the men caught sight 
 of Falls Station, and I, as I had been instructed, 
 went to the captain and informed him of the fact. 
 In an instant he was on his feet, opera-glass in 
 hand, eagerly inquiring if w^e could see the flag 
 of the State, and for the next three or four days 
 he seemed to have taken a new lease of health, 
 and in fact kept up till Deane had been rescued, 
 and w^e were safe out of the Arab territory, running 
 free for Bangala, when he was once more pros- 
 trated. It was not till two years later, wdien I 
 myself was suffering from dysentery, that I real- 
 ised the tremendous force of will Captain Coquil- 
 hat possessed, and the awful effort he must have 
 made to rouse himself to his duties in the way 
 he did. 
 
 AVe only caught a glimpse of the station, for 
 w^e had to steer for the opposite side of the river 
 in order to avoid some rocks, and soon lost sight 
 of it. Here some Bakumu natives came out of the 
 bush, and informed us that the station had been 
 burnt, and that one of the two white men had 
 been drowned while trying to escape. On being
 
 THE ARABS ATTACK US. 109 
 
 asked which one, they replied that it was the one 
 who had come up with the Stanley, and we knew 
 that poor Lieutenant Dubois, who had not been 
 four months in Africa, was gone over to the ma- 
 jority. 
 
 As we steamed round the next point, our worst 
 fears were confirmed. The blue flag wdth the golden 
 star no louQ-er floated over the island of Wana 
 Eusari, and blackened patches of ground were all 
 that remained of the station of which Captain 
 Shagerstrom said, when talking about it a year 
 later, that " there never was such a station, and 
 never will be such a station on the Consfo again." 
 
 When wdthin 500 yards of the island, we sud- 
 denly grounded on a sunken reef of rocks, and, 
 as if this had been a preconcerted signal, a crowed 
 of men, among whom we could distinguish many 
 white-shirted Arabs, came running down to the 
 shore and began firing at us. We were within 
 twenty yards of the north bank. Captain Coquil- 
 hat, ordering all the men into the water to push 
 the steamer ofl", jumped up on the sun-deck with 
 two or three of the best shots, and began to return 
 the fire of the Arabs. Then followed a mauvais 
 quart-d'heure. The boat would not move ; so, as 
 there was plenty of steam, I sent my fireman and 
 greaser into the water to help the other men, and 
 filling up the magazine of my Winchester rifle, 
 I went to the engine myself, and, turning the
 
 110 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 steam full on at the boiler, worked her with the 
 reversing lever with one hand, while I held my 
 Winchester to my shoulder with the other, and 
 now and then, as I got a chance, let go a snap 
 shot at the Arabs. Fortunately for us, they were 
 too far off to do ns any damage. Had they been 
 any nearer, the chances are that none of us would 
 have come out alive, as nearly all our men were in 
 the water trying to push off the boat, and could 
 not have defended themselves. At last she began 
 to move, and I hastily pulled the reversing lever 
 to put the engines astern. The valves refused to 
 move, so I gave the links a kick with my foot : the 
 engines went astern, but the forward valve-rod 
 jammed, and could not move far enough, so that it 
 bent the excentric rod, but luckily not enough to 
 disable us. However, we were not yet clear, for 
 no sooner were we off one rock than the current 
 forced us on another. This occurred three times, 
 but we managed to get clear at last, and, turning 
 tail on the Arabs, steamed away down to where 
 we had seen the Bakumu, who informed us that 
 Deane was hiding from the enemy in the bush. 
 One of these Bakumu, named Samba, who had been 
 in the station with Deane, came on board to help 
 us to search for him. By Samba's aid we traced 
 his camps down as far as the junction of the Lukebu 
 with the Congo : there we lost all trace of him, and 
 as it was getting dark, were obliged to camp for
 
 SEARCHING FOR DEANE. Ill 
 
 the niglit. Next day we learnt from some Bakumu 
 that he had bought a canoe and was gone — down 
 river, said some ; up the Lukebu, said others. 
 Captain Coquilhat decided on the dow^n- river 
 course as the most likely one^ and off we started, 
 searching first one bank and then the other — 
 occasionally blowing our steam-whistle (as we had 
 done all the previous day), in case Deane might 
 be out of sight in the dense jungle ; — now chasing 
 a solitary frightened native in a tiny canoe, in 
 order, if possible, to get some information from 
 him ; now pausing for a few seconds while Samba, 
 whose eagle eye had detected the smoke from a 
 camp-fire in the jungle, shouted questions to, and 
 received answers from, invisible Bakumu and 
 Wenya, and then again running for a mile or 
 two w^ithout seeing a sio;n of life. The little 
 A. LA. seemed to appreciate the necessity for haste 
 as much as we did, and she never steamed better. 
 I gave her all the steam I could, and her cranks 
 became almost invisible as they flew round, while 
 the fireman, having very good wood, kept the steam 
 up to blowing-off point. We knew Deane had a 
 good twenty-four hours' start, at least, and were 
 afraid that he would reach Yaporo and be attacked 
 by the Arabs before we could come up with him. 
 Even supposing he managed to pass Yaporo in 
 safety, there were hostile natives below ; and once 
 he reached the broad part of the stream, with its
 
 112 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 numerous channels and islands, how could we ever 
 hope to find him ? It would be like looking for a 
 needle in a haystack. And how could a man who, 
 as we learnt from Samba, had been thirty days in 
 the bush, living on what he could pick up, possibly 
 get safely over the 500 miles that separated him 
 from Bangala, without goods to purchase food from 
 the natives, or arms to defend himself against the 
 cannibal tribes who had twice before treacherously 
 attacked him ? 
 
 The speed at which we were going soon began to 
 tell on the engines, and finding the bearings were 
 getting; hot, I turned on cold water from the service- 
 pipes. They were just cooling down again when I 
 heard a knocking, the meaning of which I knew 
 only too well : one of the connecting-rod bolts had 
 become slack, and I should be obliged to stop. We 
 were again approaching the village of Yarukombe, 
 and I went to Captain Coquilhat and told him we 
 must pull up for a few minutes or break down 
 completely. Just at this moment, Samba, who had 
 been shouting to some natives, turned and spoke 
 to the captain, who then asked me if I could not 
 keep on a little longer, as Deane was reported to be 
 at Yarukombe. We had still over a mile to go, 
 but I determined to risk it, and going to the 
 engine, stood with my hand on the stop- valve, in 
 case anything should break. The knocking of the 
 loose rod was awful, and I expected the cylinder-
 
 CAPTAIN COQUILHAT. 
 
 h'rom a photograph, by E. H'estcndorf, Aix la. Chapelle.
 
 DEANE FOUND. 113 
 
 cover to give way every second. Captain Coquil- 
 hat, becoming alarmed at the noise, came and asked 
 me if I thought the engine would hold out. I 
 replied, " It must." Just then a shout from our 
 men drew my attention to a canoe which had put 
 out from Yarukombe, in which were two or three 
 red - shirted Houssas. In response to Captain 
 Coquilhat's questions, one of them called out that 
 Deane was alive and safe at Yarukombe. Greatly 
 relieved, I slowed down, and the canoe came along- 
 side. On board was the Houssa sergeant-major, 
 who had been with Deane, and who now, as we 
 slowly steamed up to the village, told us that the 
 latter was lying in a hut, very sick, and hardly able 
 to move. As soon as our bows touched the bank 
 Captain Coquilhat was ashore, and mounting the 
 steep slope to the village ; while I — leaving to the 
 men the task of getting out the anchor — set to 
 work to put the engine right, for which I had 
 already got out the tools. This did not take long ; 
 and then, leaving one of the men to clear up and 
 put away the tools, I began to prepare a bed for 
 Mr Deane, who was presently carried down by the 
 Houssas, under the direction of Captain Coquilhat. 
 He was alive, but that was about all, and it was 
 some minutes before he could get strength enough 
 to speak. All the clothes he had on consisted of 
 a piece of blanket tied round his loins, and he was 
 covered with sores from sleeping night after night 
 
 H
 
 114 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 Oil tlie hard ground. A little ^Madeira wine (of 
 which Captain Coquilhat had a case among his 
 private stores) soon revived him, however, and the 
 chief of Yarukombe having come on board, a palaver 
 was held, at the end of which Captain Coquilhat 
 gave the chief ten percussion-muskets (all he had on 
 board) and several kegs of powder, and promised 
 that he w' ould return and bring him a hundred more 
 muskets, and that the Arabs should be driven out. 
 
 The sergeant-major, three Houssas, and four 
 boys, who had remained faithful to Mr Deane, now 
 came on board, with all that the latter had saved 
 from the station. The inventory of these articles 
 was a very short one. A watch, a pair of opera- 
 glasses, a pair of boots, a revolver, and six car- 
 tridges, were all he possessed ; while the sergeant- 
 major had brought away a Martini rifle. 
 
 Samba having decided to accompany us to Ban- 
 gala, we started again about noon ; and as we had 
 to pass the Arab settlement at Yaporo, we made 
 ready for a fight. All the cartridges were sorted 
 out, and the good ones distributed to the Houssas. 
 The boxes and bales of cloth were piled up along 
 the sides of the steamer, and, thus cleared for action, 
 we prepared to make it as hot as possible for the 
 Arabs. As we neared Yaporo, we could see men in 
 long white shirts running about, as w^ell as a crow^l 
 of black figures, evidently in a state of great excite- 
 ment. Deane, wdio had wonderfully revived since
 
 ARAB DEFENCES. 115 
 
 coming on board, now asked for his revolver. As 
 it had been in the water, and was pretty rusty, I 
 oiled it up, and replacing the cartridges with some 
 of my own, handed it to him. He at once raised 
 himself on his elbow, saying that, if he was too 
 weak to use a rifle, there was no reason why he 
 should not shoot with the revolver, if we approached 
 near enough. As we neared the Arab camp they 
 opened fire long before w^e were within range ; but 
 we soon let them have enough, and they disap- 
 peared behind trees, whence they kept up a pretty 
 hot fire, while all we could do was to watch till 
 a head or arm emerged, and then " draw a bead 
 on it." 
 
 Once or twice a ffleam of white among; the sjrass 
 showed that a shot had told, and an Arab received 
 a dose of lead. About the centre of the village the 
 Arabs had planted numerous canoes upright in the 
 ground, and, standing inside them, fired at us 
 through holes cut in the bottom. Captain Coquil- 
 hat had intended to storm and burn the place, and 
 accordingly, on reaching the upper end, we had 
 slowed down. Leaving the engine in charge of the 
 greaser, I had taken up my Martini, and w^as hav- 
 ing good practice at snap-shooting, as now and then 
 I caught sight of a white-turbaned black head pro- 
 truded from behind a tree, when the man at the 
 wheel got a shot (apparently) through the jaws, and, 
 letting go, fell to the bottom of the boat with a tre-
 
 116 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 mendous outcry. The A. LA. swung round, end 
 on to the shore, and received a raking fire fore and 
 aft, which wounded Captain Cocjuilhat and tw^elve 
 others, and w^ould have been still more destructive 
 had he not, with his wounded arm, seized the wheel 
 and brought her round on her former course. Just 
 at this juncture the Houssas, having exhausted 
 their stock of cartridges, came pouring out of the 
 whale-boat into the steamer, with blood-bespattered 
 clothes and faces, asking for ammunition, and I had 
 to turn my attention to supplying their wants. 
 When I was once more free to look round we had 
 passed Yaporo, and Captain Coquilhat was con- 
 sultino; w^ith Deane as to whether or not it would 
 be advisable to accede to the demands of the 
 Houssas, who were yelling for vengeance, and go 
 back and make another attempt to storm the Arab 
 camp, which, as nearly as I could judge, seemed to 
 contain about 200 men. Against these we had only 
 some thirty men, twelve of whom were wounded ; 
 and as we now found out, not half the cartridges 
 we had were of any use. In addition to this, we 
 were running short of fuel for the steamer, so jDru- 
 dence was allowed to get the better of valour, and 
 we continued our course down - stream. I now 
 turned my attention to the medicine-chest ; — none 
 of the men were killed, and the wounds received 
 were not very serious. Indeed the man at the 
 wheel — as I found, to my great disgust, when he
 
 CLOTHING FOR DEANE. 117 
 
 came to me to o-et his cliin dressed — had nothina; 
 whatever the matter, except that the skin was 
 scratched by a splinter of lead. The shot that had 
 entered Captain Coquilhat's arm just before he 
 seized the wheel was by far the worst wound of 
 the lot, and it was several days before we could 
 find and extract the lead. We had no means of 
 knowing the loss of the Arabs, but I am certain 
 that several were killed and a good many wounded. 
 
 Deane, now he was safe on board, began to pick 
 up very rapidly, though still suffering severely from 
 rheumatic pains in his head. He was a very tall 
 man — quite six feet, if not more — and both Captain 
 Coquilhat and myself being very small, the diffi- 
 culty was how to clothe him. Luckily I had some 
 rather large-sized i:)yjamas, and with these, and a 
 flannel shirt of the captain's, he managed till we 
 reached Bangala, though the legs of the former 
 articles were too short to reach much below his 
 knees. 
 
 Deane's account of the events that followed the 
 departure of the Stanley, though one of the most 
 thrilling tales on record, I must necessarily make 
 very brief, as — though I heard it bit by bit on the 
 run down from the Lomami to Bangala — I had so 
 much to do every day, between dressing the men's 
 wounds and looking after the work of the steamer, 
 that I neglected till too late to write it down. 
 Captain Coquilhat, too, now that the excitement was
 
 118 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 over, was getting perceptibly weaker, and I again 
 began to fear that he would never reach Leopold- 
 ville alive. I myself had kept in remarkably good 
 health, though I was also beginning to feel tired, 
 and to wish for a rest in the station. 
 
 Deane had been very much disappointed when 
 the Sto.nley arrived in August without the ex- 
 pected reinforcements in men and ammunition, 
 especially as he thought that the Arabs had seized 
 the woman from his station merely in order to 
 furnish a pretext for a quarrel, and distrusted their 
 professed wish for peace. He borrowed all the 
 cartridges he could from Captain Anderson of the 
 Stanley, but these did not amount to more than 
 three rounds for each of his men, and as it turned 
 out when they came to be used, most of them were 
 bad, and w^ould not go off. The day after the 
 Stanley left, some natives came and told him that 
 the Arabs were preparing to attack him ; and sure 
 enough they did, keeping up the attack for three 
 days. Deane and Dubois, having to fight all day 
 and keep watch all night, were naturally becoming 
 exhausted, and Deane was suffering with severe 
 pains in the head and bleeding from the ears — a 
 result of the continual concussions to which he was 
 subjected while firing off the two Krupp guns at the 
 upper end of the station : a third Krupp at the 
 lower end of the island was worked by Dubois. 
 
 On the fourth day, the Houssas, having no more
 
 PANIC AND DESERTION. 119 
 
 cartridges, came to liim and told him they meant 
 to leave the station, Deane tried to persuade 
 them to hold out, telling them that in thirty- 
 days' time help would arrive ; but they persisted 
 in their intention, and all he could do was to in- 
 duce them to wait till night, when he promised to 
 evacuate the station under cover of the darkness. 
 He and Dubois at once set about their prepara- 
 tions. They cut the throats of all the goats, let 
 all the fowls out into the bush, poured some demi- 
 johns of petroleum they had in the store over the 
 bales of cloth and other inflammable material, laid 
 a train to the powder-magazine, and, as soon as it 
 was dark, took the breech-pieces, linch-pins, cottas, 
 &c., out of the Krupp guns, and threw them into 
 the river. Everything went fairly well, and had 
 their men had the least pluck or steadiness in them, 
 every one would probably have embarked in safety, 
 and in due time reached Bangala. But no sooner 
 was it dark than some of the men broke into the 
 store, and carried off part of the goods. A panic 
 at once ensued ; the Houssas and Ba-Ngala rushed 
 for the canoes and went ojff down river, without 
 leaving Deane and Dubois, and the eight Houssas 
 and boys who remained in the station, a single 
 vessel in which to escape. About midnight the 
 station was fired, and Deane and Dubois, wading 
 across the narrow channel which separates the 
 island of Wana Rusari from the right bank, took
 
 120 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 to the bush, and left Kinsi Katini for ever. In 
 clambering along the bank Dubois slipped into the 
 water, and was carried off by the current. Deane 
 sprang after him, and succeeded in getting him on 
 to a rock, which Dubois clutched in a half-uncon- 
 scious way. Supposing him to be safe for the 
 moment, Deane let go his hold for a few seconds, 
 in order to regain his own footing ; and before he 
 could again catch him, Dubois had slipped off and 
 was seen no more. He had left Europe only five 
 months before, and had been but nine days at the 
 station — a Ijrave young fellow, much liked by 
 every one who knew him, swept away without 
 leaving a trace, like poor Delatte of the A. I. A. 
 
 For the next twenty-six or twenty-eight days 
 Deane wandered about in the bush, moving from 
 one camp to another, to keep out of the way of the 
 Arabs, living on almost anything he could pick 
 up ; going at night to the outskirts of villages 
 and cutting some green bananas, or digging some 
 manioc root, which he cooked in an old broken pot 
 found on a native grave. At last he was obliged 
 to eat caterpillars and wood-worms, the latter l^eing 
 fat white creatures about three inches long, and 
 from half an inch to five -eighths of an inch in 
 diameter. The Ba-Ngala esteem them a luxury, 
 but Deane must have been very hungry before he 
 could bring himself to eat them. I have myself 
 often found them in dead trees when getting wood
 
 DEANE ESCAPES DOWN EIVER. 121 
 
 for the steamer, and on one occasion, remember- 
 ing Deane's experience, got the Ba-Ngala to cook 
 some for me ; but, when it came to the point of 
 eating, I backed out, and contented myself with 
 watching the niggers enjoy them. 
 
 At last, having reached the extreme end of the 
 peninsula between the Congo and Lukebu, Deane 
 managed to purchase a canoe from a native chief, 
 and set off down river. Some time before this — I 
 believe soon after his escape from the station — he 
 had taken off his clothes, which had got wet, and 
 hung them in the sun to dry. While they were 
 drying, an alarm was raised that the Arabs were 
 upon them, and Deane made off, literally scms 
 everjrthing. One of his men had an old blanket, 
 which he tied round him after the fashion of the 
 natives, and in this style of costume he remained 
 till found by us. He did not go very far the first 
 night after buying the canoe, and was camped 
 somewhere just above Yarukombe, when an alarm 
 of Arabs or hostile natives was again raised, and 
 all his men and boys rushed for the canoe, leaving 
 Deane — who was now too weak to stand — l3^ing on 
 the ground. All the means of defence he possessed 
 was his revolver, and the six cartridges with which 
 it was loaded. He afterwards told me he was 
 reservino; these six cartridges in case he should be 
 captured by the Arabs, meaning to shoot do^^^l the 
 five most important men he could get at, and put
 
 122 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 the sixth hall through his own head, sooner than 
 fall alive into their hands. He was crawlino^ to- 
 wards the canoe when a huge native rushed up, 
 and would have speared him had Deane not 
 covered him with his revolver. After dodgins; 
 about trying to get a chance to throw his spear, 
 the native suddenly paused : Deane, reluctant to 
 waste a cartridge, did not fire ; and the native, 
 lowering his spear, came a little closer, and, per- 
 ceiving who it was, suddenly shouted, '' Mundele ! 
 onundelel" This was the chief of Yarukombe, to 
 whom Captain Coquilhat had made a present only 
 the day before. He now explained to Deane that 
 he had taken him for an Aral), and brought him to 
 his village, telling him that a steamer had gone up 
 river, and would be down again in a day or two. 
 To convince him, he showed him Captain Coquilhat's 
 presents, and fortunately induced him to remain 
 till we arrived and rescued him — on exactly the 
 thirtieth day after he had tried to persuade the 
 Houssas not to desert him, by telling them that 
 reinforcements would arrive in thirty days. 
 
 We steamed down river, finding no trace of the 
 twenty odd Houssas who were still missing, and 
 on October 3d duly arrived at Bangala. Here 
 we found the Henry Reed — the A.B.M.U. steamer, 
 which had been chartered by the State — with 
 Captain Van Gele on board. She brought orders 
 for Captain Coquilhat to take command of the
 
 BACK TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 123 
 
 Falls — ill exact contradiction to his last orders, 
 which directed him to leave the command to Mr 
 Deane. The Falls Station was now no more : and 
 thus ended an ill-advised attempt to direct opera- 
 tions at an isolated post in the very heart of Africa, 
 — over 1500 miles from the nearest telegraph-sta- 
 tion, — from headquarters in Europe. 
 
 On October 6th the Henry Reed left for Equa- 
 tor, and next day I followed in the A. I. A., taking 
 Deane and Captain Coquilhat. The latter, now 
 that his work was done, seemed to sink rapidly 
 into a kind of stupor. At Equator Station, Captain 
 Van Gele took him up to the house, and by the 
 help of Mr McKittrick, one of the missionaries, 
 succeeded in partially arresting the dysentery. 
 Captain Van Gele had a whole pile of wood ready 
 cut, from which he directed me to help myself, 
 saying that I had two sick men on board, and must 
 get to the doctor as fast as possible. Thanks to 
 his forethought, I was able to get nearly four 
 days' fuel on board before dark ; and next day 
 started for Leopoldville, where I arrived safely on 
 October 15th, and was heartily pleased to see Dr 
 Mense waiting on the beach, ready to take charge 
 of the two invalids — both of whom soon began to 
 recover under his care. Captain Coquilhat was at 
 once despatched to Europe, where, I am happy 
 to say, he arrived all right. But he had had too 
 severe a shaking to recover all at once ; and when
 
 124 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 I met him at Brussels, more than two years later, 
 he told me that he still had to take care of himself, 
 as he was only just getting over the effects of our 
 trip to Kinsi Katini. Deane's constitution must 
 have l3een made of steel, for less than a year had 
 passed before he was back again in Africa, and I 
 again had the pleasure of once more meeting the 
 defender of Stanley Falls. 
 
 Several times in the course of this narrative, I 
 have had occasion to mention Samba ; and as his 
 name will occur in the succeeding chapters, a few 
 words about his history may not be out of place 
 here. He belongs to the Bakumu tribe, who in- 
 habit a stretch of country on the right bank of the 
 Congo, just above Stanley Falls. Some years ago 
 he was sold by these people as a slave to the natives 
 of Yambunga and was bought from them by some 
 traders of Lulanga, who had gone up to Yambunga 
 to purchase ivory. Some time after, he was again 
 sold by them to the people of Irebu, and by them 
 passed on to Chumbiri, only to be again sold to 
 some native trader at Ntamo. He would probably 
 have been passed on in this way till he reached 
 the coast, had not Stanley bought him, and taken 
 him up the river when he went to found Stanley 
 Falls Station. Here he was left, probably to act as 
 interpreter ; but he made himself useful in many 
 other ways, especially by his hunting expeditions.
 
 samba's adventures. 125 
 
 from which he always returned with some fresh 
 meat or fish for the station. Shortly after Mr 
 Deane took command of the Falls, Samba, with two 
 Houssas, was out in a canoe above the cataracts. 
 The canoe, drawn into the rapids, w^as carried over 
 the fall into the roaring channel below. The two 
 Houssas were drowned, but Samba saved himself 
 by swimming, though how he escaped being dashed 
 to pieces on the rocks passes my comprehension. 
 When the station was attacked by the Arabs, 
 Samba proved himself the best fighter among the 
 black men there ; and I have several times heard 
 Mr Deane praise his courage and faithfulness. 
 When all seemed lost, and the station had been 
 blown up. Samba provided himself with a spear, 
 and took to the bush ; and, though he did not now 
 remain with Mr Deane, continued to supply him 
 with food, and so kept him from absolute starvation. 
 When Deane was obliged to take to a canoe and 
 go down the river, Samba, unaware of the fact, re- 
 mained behind ; and when Captain Coquilhat and 
 myself arrived in the A. I. A., he came on board, 
 and led us from one to another of Mr Deane's 
 hiding-places, only to discover the smouldering 
 remains of his camp-fires. It was Samba who 
 found out from some other natives that Mr Deane 
 had purchased a canoe and gone down-stream ; and 
 again coming on board, with his sole earthly pos-
 
 126 THE LOSS OF STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 sessions — a loin-clotli and a sj)ear (which hitter I 
 bought from him, and still have) — accompanied us 
 to the village, where at length we found Mr Deane, 
 and thence to Bang-ala. Here he still lives, in 
 hopes of some day returning to his people, when 
 his great enemies, the slave-raiding Arabs, have 
 been driven out. Until the authority of the Free 
 State is in some measure re-established in that 
 region, it will not be safe for Samba to show his 
 face there ; for he is a marked man among the 
 Arabs, and has done them too much injury to hope 
 for mercy should he fall into their hands. The 
 particulars of his earlier history I had from himself, 
 and only regret that I do not know enough of the 
 native languages to get a fuller account, as it would 
 form a most interesting narrative, and would give 
 some idea of the Congo before it was ever seen by 
 Stanley. He is the only instance I ever met with 
 of a native who showed any gratitude either by 
 word or deed. Freed by Bula Matari, he has 
 faithfully served the State ever since ; whereas 
 most natives, on being rescued from slavery by 
 the white man, try to run away, and if successful, 
 perhaps help their former masters to fight against 
 their deliverer. If a native gives a present, he 
 expects to receive ten times its value in return. 
 If you find a man dying by the wayside, save 
 him, and restore him to his people, you will not
 
 NATIVE CUSTOMS. 127 
 
 get a word of thanks from him or his ; but he will 
 think you a fool for not tying him up and demand- 
 ing a high price from his tribe for his release, with 
 the alternative of selling him into slavery if it is 
 not paid. Were all natives such as Samba, the 
 regeneration of Africa would be comparatively easy.
 
 128 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE XGALA RIVER. 
 
 OVERHAULIXG THE A.I. A. — CAPTAIN BAYLEY AT NSHASSA — BEGIN- 
 NING OF THE RAINY SEASON — START FOR BANGALA — DISSECTION 
 OF A HIPPO — HOSTILE NATIVES — ORDERS TO EXPLORE THE 
 NGALA — THE OUBANGI-WELL^ — POSITION OF BANGALA STATION 
 — THE OUBANGI AND THE NGIRI — MOBEKA — UP THE NGALA 
 WITHOUT A GUIDE — MANKULA — VILLAGE BUILT ON PILES — 
 TERROR OF THE NATIVES — RAPIDS — HOSTILITIES WITH THE 
 SAIBIS — RETURN — AFFAIR OF THE HIPPO — TORNADOES — ARRIVAL 
 OF THE STANLEY. 
 
 Captain Coquilhat, having left orders for me to 
 take the steamer and whale-boat back to Bangala, 
 was carried off on his way to the coast in a ham- 
 mock, and I turned my attention to overhauling 
 the little A. I. A. — as, after her late spell of hard 
 work, she sorely wanted it. Everything was ready 
 for a start by October 23d ; so M. Lemarinel (who 
 had, during my absence, succeeded Baron Nimpsch 
 as chief of Leopoldville) decided to send down the 
 cargo to me on Monday, so that I could get away 
 early on Tuesday morning.
 
 THE SANFOED COMPANY. 129 
 
 On Sunday I walked over to Ksliassa Station, 
 then under the charge of Captain Bayley, the best 
 hunter and coolest shot on the Congo. Here also 
 I met Mr Swinburne, the founder of Nshassa 
 Station, who, after serving some five years, or 
 more, with Stanley, had returned to Europe. He 
 was now back again in Africa for the Sanford 
 Exploring Expedition — a new company, formed 
 at Brussels, to exploit the Upper Congo and 
 Kassai. 
 
 At this time it was a question whether or not 
 the station of Leopoldville should be removed to 
 Nshassa ; and the State having refused to part with 
 the latter place to the Sanford Company, Mr Swin- 
 burne was building a station of his own just above 
 the village of Nshassa, in the centre of which the 
 old station stood. As there w^as no timber round 
 Nshassa, he had to fetch all the materials for his 
 house from Long (Bamu) Island, in Stanley Pool ; 
 so, hearing I was down with the A. I. A., he sent a 
 request to M. Lemarinel to let him have the use of 
 the steamer for one day, to fetch this timber over. 
 Accordingly, my departure was delayed for a day ; 
 and on Monday I went to Long Island, where I 
 found Captain Bayley in camp, with a huge heap of 
 timber, which I transferred to Nshassa — Captain 
 Bayley remaining behind with a canoe, to try if he 
 could not find a buffalo or an antelope. 
 
 On Tuesday I loaded up with a pretty heavy 
 
 I
 
 130 EXPLORATION OF THE NGALA RIVER. 
 
 cargo of brass wire, beads, bales of cloth, and boxes 
 of provisions and ammunition ; and on Wednesday, 
 October 27tli, I left, saying good-bye to Captain 
 Anderson, wlio was shortly to start for Europe. 
 The rain}^ season had begun, and the rain poured 
 down in torrents, beating in under the sun-deck, 
 and as it was no use trying to keep dry, I made 
 up my mind to get wet. In addition to this, we 
 had on board as much cargo as it was safe to carry, 
 and steamed very slowly — so that, all things con- 
 sidered, I did not have a very pleasant start. 
 After stopping for a few minutes at Nshassa to 
 take a letter or two from Captain Bayley, I went 
 on to Kimpopo — where Bishop Taylor's mission- 
 aries had occupied the old State station — and as it 
 was getting late, camped there for the night. 
 
 Leopoldville had been very short of meat when 
 I left, and two or three fowls were all that could 
 be spared. I had also some difficulty in persuading 
 the natives to sell fowls, and only succeeded in 
 getting two at Kwamouth (given me by the French 
 missionaries), and two at Bolobo. My men, too, 
 had nothing l3ut rice and chikwanga (cassava bread) 
 to eat — so that there was a general rejoicing when 
 we came upon a hippo standing in very shallow 
 water, and I managed to bowl him over with a 
 shot behind the ear. We stopped a day to cut 
 him up and dry some of the meat. As he was 
 very heavy, the men could not manage to drag
 
 HOSTILE NATIVES. 131 
 
 him up on dry ground ; but tliey got on one side 
 of him, and the huge brute, being very fat, was 
 ignominiously rolled along the sand-bank like a 
 beer-barrel till he was in very shallow water, when 
 the Ba-Ngala (of whom I had three on board) 
 ripped him open, and one of them, getting right 
 into his inside, began to heave out armful after 
 armful of still undigested grass. By the time he 
 had finished, the hippo did not look nearly so plump 
 as he had done before, but was much more handy, 
 and was soon cut up. 
 
 Nothing worth mentioning happened after this 
 till we were nearly at Equator, when, for some 
 reason or other, the natives of a village we were 
 passing suddenly came running out in war-paint, 
 and, waving spears and shields, invited us to come 
 ashore and fight them. As we took no notice, but 
 quietly steamed on, some, more adventurous than 
 the rest, ran along the bank, and getting into a 
 large canoe some distance ahead, pushed out, and 
 tried to intercept us by putting the canoe right 
 across our bows. As they persisted in keeping 
 right in our way, my men began to get out their 
 guns, and I had some difficulty in preventing their 
 shooting. However, one Zanzibari, who had been 
 a long time in the country, and could speak 
 English, seconded me so well that they desisted, 
 and I turned my attention to the canoe, which 
 was moving backwards and forwards ahead of us,
 
 132 EXPLORATION OF THE NGALA RIVER. 
 
 keeping right in our course whichever way we 
 turned — the natives evidently thinking we should 
 be compelled to fight them. Putting on full steam, 
 I then took the wheel, and made right for the 
 centre of the canoe. Just at the last minute they 
 tried to avoid us by turning ; but I saw their 
 intention in time, and turned too, and catching 
 the canoe fair and square amidships with an awful 
 crash, cut her clean in two. I never saw a more 
 astonished expression than that shown by the faces 
 of these natives, as they disappeared into the water 
 and struck out for the shore. One, indeed, hung 
 for a few seconds on to the whale-boat ; but a 
 blow across the knuckles soon made him let 
 go, and we continued our way in peace, arriv- 
 ing safely at Bangala on November 14th, when 
 I handed Captain Coquilhat's despatches to Lieu- 
 tenant Baert. 
 
 These despatches instructed Mr Baert to explore 
 a river called the Ngala, which empties itself into 
 the Congo about forty or forty-five miles above 
 Iboko. To account for the importance attached to 
 this expedition, it will be necessary to explain that 
 at this time the French claimed both banks of the 
 lower Oubangi river, which has since proved to be 
 the lower course of the Welle. Had the Ngala 
 turned out to be — as was thought — an outlet for 
 the upper waters of the Oubangi, the French would 
 probably have had their claim allowed. A few
 
 SITUATION OF BANG ALA. 133 
 
 words about the situation of the station will also 
 make matters clearer. 
 
 Bangala Station stands on the north hank of the 
 Congo, in the town of Iboko, which forms the centre 
 of a ten-mile line of towns and villasies inhabited 
 by the Ba-Ngala tribe. This settlement is surround- 
 ed on three sides by swamp, and on the fourth the 
 river Congo cuts off all communication except by 
 boat. According to native accounts, it is possible 
 in the dry season to go some two days' journey in- 
 land ; and I should think it quite practicable to 
 penetrate as far as the Oubangi : but, as the tribes 
 on the banks of that river are hostile to the Ba- 
 Ngala, I had no means of ascertaining the fact, and 
 I have never been more than six or seven hours' 
 journey in that direction myself. I found the 
 country gently undulating — the rising ground for 
 the most part cleared and cultivated, and the hollows 
 filled with a dense scrub, which, in the w^et season, 
 grew out of three or four feet of w^ater, sometimes 
 more. After some three hours' journey inland, all 
 cultivation ceases, and the path runs through one 
 continuous jungle of scrub, there being very few 
 large trees. 
 
 When I first arrived at Bangala, the officers in 
 that station had a theory that the Oubangi emptied 
 itself into the Congo by several mouths, one of 
 which was thought to be the Ngala river. This 
 theory was hotly discussed until it proved to be
 
 134 EXPLORATION OF THE NGALA RIVER. 
 
 false, and then it was charitably put down as one 
 of Mr Grenfell's mistakes. I myself do not believe 
 that Mr Grenfell ever held that theory, as, from 
 the descriptions I have heard of the Oubangi river, 
 no one who had been up it could suppose that it 
 made use of the Ngala river as an outlet to the 
 Congo. I am sorry to say that I never thought of 
 asking Mr Grenfell when I saw him what his im- 
 pressions of the Ngala really were. I will presently 
 describe the exploration of the Ngala by Mr Baert 
 and myself, but, before doing so, wt.11 proceed to 
 give my reasons for thinking that, instead of the 
 Oubangi supplying water to the Ngala, both the 
 Ngala and the Congo empty some of their water 
 during the greater part of the year into the Oubangi 
 — this water, of course, re-entering the Congo at 
 the mouth of the Oubangi. 
 
 In passing up and down the river, between the 
 station and the mouth of the Ngala, I noticed 
 several channels, from 50 to 100 yards wide, 
 into which the water of the main river seemed to 
 flow. These channels are reported by natives to 
 lead into the Ngiri river, a small tributary of the 
 Oubangi, which was explored by Captain A^an Gele, 
 and reported by him to flow east to w^est. Captain 
 Van Gele traced its course till he was close to the 
 longitude of Bangala Station, when he was obliged 
 to turn back on account of the stream being choked 
 with weeds and grass. In December 1887, 1 noticed,
 
 r-a. 
 
 
 
 Jk -^ 

 
 UP THE NGALA. 135 
 
 after a sudden fall in the waters of the Cong-o, that 
 the water from these channels ran into and not out 
 of the river, from which I concluded — supposing 
 these channels to be connected with the Ngiri — that 
 the waters of the Oubanoi were not fallino- as fast 
 as those of the Congo, and that the latter river was 
 therefore receiving some of the water of the Ngiri, 
 which usually went to the Oubangi. 
 
 On November 22d, Mr Baert started in the 
 A.I.A., accompanied by me. As ni}^ journal of this 
 trip has been lost, I can only give a very superficial 
 account from memory, and what little information 
 I have noted down on a map of the river which I 
 made at the time, and still possess. 
 
 About the middle of the second day, we entered 
 the mouth of the Ngala river, which, for the last five 
 miles of its course, flows almost parallel with the 
 Congo — its wddth being about 300 yards. After 
 this, it takes a bend towards the north, and just at 
 this bend is a narrow channel, some 60 to 70 yards 
 wide, and about half a mile long, connecting with 
 the Congo. The water in this channel flows out of 
 the Congo into the Ngala river. Towards evening 
 we arrived at Ngombe, a village of the Wabika, 
 whose great town, Mobeka, was a few miles higher 
 up. Up to this point, the banks of the river had 
 been low and swampy, and here they were very 
 little better, the villages being barely above high- 
 water level.
 
 136 EXPLORATION OF THE NGALA EIVER. 
 
 Here we camped for the night — the natives being 
 very friendly, and bringing large tusks of ivory to 
 sell. Next morning we proceeded to Mobeka, a 
 large native town, a little higher up the river, from 
 whose chief, Lusengi, Mr Baert hoped to obtain a 
 guide. In this, however, he was disappointed, as 
 Lusengi wanted to retain the monopoly of the ivory 
 trade on that river, and appeared to think we were 
 going up to buy ivory. He demanded an exorbi- 
 tant j)rice for several tusks which he produced, and 
 made out all sorts of difficulties and dangers w^iich, 
 he said, would befall us, if we went up the river. 
 The text of all his arguments was, " Buy my ivory 
 — go away home, get more money, and come back 
 to buy more." 
 
 We did not finish the palaver that night, so a 
 watch was set, and we turned in. About 11 p.m. 
 Mr Baert got up, and went to see that the Houssa 
 sentinels were all awake. Finding one, who was 
 posted on the sun-deck of the steamer, asleep, he 
 put his hand on his shoulder, and the man — think- 
 ing the natives were on him — sprang up, dropped 
 his gun, and, rushing along the sun-deck towards 
 the stern, jumped into the water, whence he was 
 extracted, looking like a drowned cat. 
 
 Next day, failing to obtain a guide, we left, and 
 for two or three days more, steamed between low, 
 swampy, forest-covered^ banks, having a great deal 
 of trouble every evening to find dead wood for fuel,
 
 AKOULAS AND BASOKO. 137 
 
 or a piece of ground dry enough for a camp. As I 
 have lost my journal, I cannot be sure of dates, but 
 about the 25th of November we arrived at two 
 villages called Mankula and Iboke — very miserable- 
 looking places, situated on ground that was only 
 two or three feet above the water, and exceeding in 
 dirtiness any that I had previously visited. That 
 we had entered a new country was evident, for the 
 natives had their faces cut and cicatrised in a way 
 that reminded me of the Basoko on the Aruhwimi 
 river ; in fact we afterwards had Basoko given us 
 as the name of the tribes on the left bank, while on 
 the right they were called Akoulas. This rule did 
 not always hold good, for now and then we would 
 find a village of Akoulas on the left bank, and 
 vice versa. 
 
 After leaving here, we continued between the 
 same swampy, forest-covered banks till evening, 
 camping at night on the only piece of dry land we 
 had seen all day. Next day we passed a small 
 village called Mpeza, built on piles, the water, at 
 this season of the year, having overflowed both 
 banks of the river. The place reminded me very 
 much of pictures 1 had seen of villages on Lake 
 Mohrya, as described by Commander Cameron. 
 The natives here, never having seen a white man 
 or a steamer before, all ran away ; so we could get 
 no information from them beyond the name of the 
 village. On the 27th, we saw some low hills on
 
 138 EXPLORATION OF THE XGALA RIVER. 
 
 the right bank, and came ujjon a village called 
 Mputu, where Dua (a native of Bangala, who, 
 having been to Stanley Falls, knew something of 
 the languages used on this part of the river) 
 managed, after a long palaver, to obtain permis- 
 sion for us to land ; but this was of little use, as 
 far as buying food was concerned, for the natives 
 were too frio-htened to sell much to our men. The 
 chief, a very old man, presented Mr Baert with a 
 bunch of bananas, two or three fowls, and a 
 wretched -lookins; native doo;. The latter was 
 declined in spite of Dua's request that he should 
 be delivered over to him, to furnish a meal for 
 the Ba-Ngala who were with us. This villao-e 
 looked as dirty and miserable as Mankula, and the 
 people were evidently cannibals ; for I came across 
 a dead tree in the centre of a small open space, 
 round the trunk of which was a seat formed of 
 pieces of old canoes supported on human skulls, 
 while the leafless branches were adorned ^T.th 
 many more of these trophies. Salt-making seemed 
 to be the chief occupation of the natives of this 
 place. 
 
 After leaving Mputu, the banks became higher, 
 and the river assumed a general north-easterly 
 course, finally turning round to north by west, and 
 then back a2;ain to north-east. The natives here 
 all ran away as soon as they caught sight of the 
 steamer, many of them, who were in canoes, jump-
 
 HEADWATERS OF THE NGALA. 139 
 
 ino- into the water and leaving^ tlieir canoes to drift 
 down-stream. Some of them must have deserted 
 their canoes at the mere sound of the puffing from 
 the steamer's exhaust-pipe — for, several times, on 
 rounding a bend of the stream, we nearly ran down 
 empty canoes of whose owners we could not see a 
 sign. Dua, standing on our sun-deck, and shouting 
 into space, could only elicit a short reply from some 
 invisible native, hidden in the bush, to the effect 
 that we were bad spirits and were to go awa}^. 
 As we persisted in continuing our course, we were 
 presently assailed with arrows made of reeds, with 
 hard wood points ; but most of them fell short, and 
 no one was hit. The huts in the villages on this 
 part of the river were mostly of conical form. 
 
 On November 30tli, we passed two or three small 
 tributaries on the left bank, about 70 or 80 yards 
 wide ; and the river rapidly narrowed, till, towards 
 evening, it was barely 60 yards wide, running 
 at the bottom of a valley between two ranges of 
 low hills. Next day these hills gave place to 
 bluffs, and we passed the first rapid, coming 
 shortly afterwards to a tributary on the right 
 bank, about 50 yards wide, which was now about 
 the width of the main river. Shortly afterwards 
 it narrowed down to about 30 yards, and we had 
 to make our way through a succession of rapids, 
 where we had only from 4 to 5 feet of water over 
 the rocks, and round several sharp curves, till we
 
 140 EXPLORATION OF THE XGALA RIVER. 
 
 entered a gorge between two vertical bluflfs, from 
 30 to 40 feet high, through which the river rushed 
 at such a rate that our little steamer could only 
 just make headway against it. Bounding a very 
 sharp bend, we came upon a village on the top of 
 the left-hand bluff, the natives of which did not 
 run away, but stood looking down at us. In 
 answer to Dua's inquiries, they gave the name of 
 their tribe as Saibis, and we drew alongside the 
 bank to try and obtain further information. Tak- 
 ing advantage of the halt, I was proceeding to 
 examine the engine, when a crash on the sun-deck, 
 followed by the sharp report of a revolver, made 
 me jump for the wheel, and in a few seconds 
 we were tearing at full speed down the rapids, 
 to avoid a shower of pieces of wood, stones, and 
 arrows from the angry natives, one of whom had 
 for some unknown reason thrown a lump of wood 
 at Mr Baert, who had replied with his revolver. 
 There was now nothing for it but to turn back, 
 as the natives w^ere all up in arms, and war-drums 
 boomed on all sides, arousing the tribes below us, 
 who, having got over their fear of bad spirits, now 
 lined the banks in front of their villages, and 
 showered arrows on us in such numbers that we 
 were several times compelled to use our rifles to 
 drive back the natives. From the fact that the 
 arrows were made of light reeds, with onl}^ a hard 
 wood point, we concluded them to be poisoned.
 
 A SHAM NIGHT-ATTACK. 141 
 
 Going with tlie stream, we soon passed the vil- 
 lages, and came to a stretch of uninhabited country, 
 where we found a clearing used by the natives as 
 a market-place, and camped there for the night. 
 There were two or three roads leading away from 
 this market-place, and a sentry was posted at each 
 of these, w^hile the rest of the men cut wood for 
 fuel, which they brought into the centre of the 
 clearing, and proceeded to chop into smaller pieces. 
 In the middle of the night, we were suddenly 
 aroused by a cry from the sentries that we were 
 attacked by the natives. Up jumped all our men, 
 and bullets began to fly indiscriminately in all di- 
 rections. Mr Baert and I jumped ashore, and made 
 our way to where three or four Houssas were keep- 
 ing up a persistent fire into the bush, where they 
 said they had seen something moving. As this 
 happened to be the very spot where we had tethered 
 our goats, Mr Baert soon stopped the shooting — 
 the alarm having merely been a ruse on the j)art 
 of our sentries, who had been unable to buy meat 
 for some days on account of the hostility of the 
 natives, and got up a sham night-attack, in the 
 hope of shooting a goat in the confusion. 
 
 We reached Bangala on December 5th, and a few 
 days later I was oft' again to Equator Station, with 
 letters, which were to be picked up by the Henry 
 Reed steamer when she came up-river, and taken 
 down by her to Leopold ville. When I returned to
 
 142 EXPLOKATIOX OF THE XGALA RIVER. 
 
 Bangala, I found that there had been a row between 
 some of the Zanzibaris in the station and some na- 
 tives, about a hippo which had been found by the 
 latter, and which the Zanzibaris alleged to have 
 been shot by one of the Europeans. The natives, 
 on the other hand, said that it had been killed with 
 spears ; and this seemed to be the truth, for no bul- 
 let-wounds could he found. However, it was now 
 too late to patch matters up, for a Zanzibari, having 
 gone into the villag-es of Mendong-e, had oot into 
 a dispute with some natives about this hippo, and 
 been attacked and wounded. On hearing this, Mr 
 Baert took a company of Houssas, and starting out 
 early one morning, burnt the village. This was 
 only a day or two before Christmas ; and when it 
 arrived, instead of spending it in peace and good- 
 will towards men, I was steaming about all day in 
 the little A. I. A., with an Express rifle, chasing 
 and knocking holes in all the canoes I could see, in 
 order to prevent the natives landing at the station 
 and burning our houses. At last, after having 
 their villages destroyed, and losing several men, 
 they were glad enough to come and ask for j)eace ; 
 and on the last day of the year the palm-tree was 
 cut,^ and every one retired homewards — the natives 
 to rebuild their huts, and I to overhaul the A. I. A., 
 which had now had over six months' hard and con- 
 tinuous work, and wanted repairing and cleaning. 
 
 1 The native ceremony on making peace.
 
 TROPICAL STORMS, 143 
 
 We had to wait a montli before we could even 
 begin to expect tlie mail-steamer from Leopold- 
 ville ; and things began to assume the monotony 
 usual at isolated posts like Bangala. I tried vari- 
 ous expedients for relieving this monotony — among 
 others, I bouQjht from a native a small live croco- 
 dile, about three feet six in length, and, putting 
 a ring round his loins, in the same way in which 
 monkeys are tied up, chained him to a palm-tree. 
 Close to this I dug a large tank, in which he could 
 swim as far as his chain would allow. I soon, how- 
 ever, got tired of him — for he used to catch unwary 
 fowls that came to drink at his tank ; and after eat- 
 ing half of them, he would leave the rest lying in 
 the water, which soon became so foul that the smell 
 was unbearable ; so one day I took a knife and a 
 revolver, and avenged the fowls. 
 
 On January 2 2d, 1887, we had a most tremendous 
 tornado, the thunder lasting fully ten minutes by 
 my watch, one peal beginning before the last had 
 stopped. The wind was something awful — palm- 
 trees bent like fishing-rods when a twenty-pound 
 salmon is hooked ; and I expected to see the whole 
 station fly away bodily, but it held on. The light- 
 ning and thunder were something grand, the whole 
 lasting from an hour and a half to two hours. 
 
 January and February seemed to be the months 
 for storms at Bangala, for we had several in succes- 
 sion, between the middle of the former and the end
 
 144 EXPLORATION OF THE NGALA RIVER. 
 
 of the latter month, in 1887. These were pretty 
 severe, but could not hold a candle to the cyclone 
 which swept over the station in February 1888. 
 I use the word cyclone purposely, and with the full 
 knowledge of its import — not, as so often happens, 
 merely to designate a tornado or hurricane. It 
 beo-an blowing from the north-east, and the wind 
 increased in strength till it drove the rain-drops 
 against my face like shot. Banana-trees were 
 levelled and fences blown down ; every living thing 
 disappeared, and nothing could be heard but the 
 roar of the wind, the patter of the rain, and the 
 creaking of the tall palm-trees, as they bent like 
 reeds before the howling blasts, till I expected to 
 see them uprooted and swept away. The rain was 
 bitterly cold, and I would gladly have got under 
 shelter, but feared that the steamer might break 
 loose, and so was obliged to stand by her. All of 
 a sudden, a great crash made me look up, and I 
 found that the old station-house — which had been 
 built by Captain Coquilhat in 1884, and was now 
 used as a carpenter's shop — had been blown bodily 
 over, and its roof was being carried by instalments 
 into the river. Then came a lull, and I was think- 
 ing of going and getting into dry clothes, when the 
 wind began again from the south-west, and was 
 soon blowing as hard as it had previously done from 
 the north-east. This sudden chang;e did more harm 
 than ever, and seriously damaged the thatch on the
 
 A CYCLONE. 145 
 
 roofs of the new houses, so that the rain passed 
 through and converted the clay on the top of the 
 fire-proof ceilings into a moist paste. When I 
 entered my room, drops of muddy water were fall- 
 ing on everything, and the whole place was in a 
 fearful mess. This storm was a genuine cyclone, 
 and a great deal more violent than the above-men- 
 tioned hurricanes and tornadoes ; the wind came 
 first from one quarter, then we had the calm centre, 
 and after that the wind began to blow with equal 
 violence from the opposite direction. Everything 
 in my room was wet and dirty, and the drops of 
 mud and water continued to come through the logs 
 of the ceiling, which creaked with the extra weight. 
 Nothing could be done till the water had all drained 
 off ; so, having got into some dry clothes, I hauled 
 my bed into the driest corner of the room, and pre- 
 pared to turn in. It was only about 7 p.m., but 
 there was nothing else to do, and I felt cold and 
 miserable. Before turning in, I again looked at 
 the roof, the creaking of which was becoming louder. 
 It hardly appeared safe, as some of the logs were 
 getting rotten — the house was a year old — and 
 might give way, letting a few pounds of mud down 
 in the course of the night ; but I was too much dis- 
 gusted with things in general to care about a little 
 extra discomfort, and saying to myself, " It will 
 hold out till to-morrow," I turned in and went to 
 sleep. About 11 p.m. I was roused by a pattering 
 
 E
 
 146 EXPLOKATIOX OF THE NGALA RIVER. 
 
 Oil the top of my mosquito-curtain, and a groaning 
 and creaking of the logs above my head. Scarcely 
 half awake, I got out of bed, and going to the table, 
 struck a match and lit a candle, which I held up to 
 examine the roof, and see whether the shower of 
 mud was not nearly over. As I raised the light, 
 it was suddenly extinguished by the roof coming 
 down, and I made for the door like a flash of greased 
 lightning, just as some two tons of wood and clay 
 descended with a fearful crash, and buried all my 
 property. I had an almost miraculous escape, for, 
 just as I cleared the door, I was struck on the 
 shoulder by one of the descending logs, and hurled, 
 face downwards, on the verandah. I arose, how- 
 ever, unhurt, and turned to look at my room ; the 
 entrance was completely blocked up, so I opened 
 the door of the next, whose occupant I knew to be 
 very ill. He was all right, and his ceiling did not 
 appear to have suffered, so I went to the room on 
 the other side, which was occupied by the chief of 
 the station. I knocked — no answer ; I listened, 
 and could hear no sound. Fearing the worst, I 
 opened the door, and, on looking in, saw the Com- 
 mandant du Territoire des Ba-Ngala craw^ling out 
 from under his bed, whither he had gone for safety 
 on hearing the crash. By this time the other 
 Europeans, and a crowd of Houssas and Zanzibaris, 
 had come to see what the noise was about, and 
 with their help I excavated two or three blankets,
 
 THE STANLEY ARRIVES. 147 
 
 and rolling up in them, lay down on the verandah, 
 and slept the sleep of the just. 
 
 But it is time to return to the proper course of 
 my narrative. Things went on in a very monot- 
 onous fashion until the arrival of the Stanley with 
 the mails, about the end of January. She brought 
 up Lieutenant Van Kerckhoven, who was to super- 
 sede Lieutenant Baert in the command of the dis- 
 trict, and two other Europeans, one of whom, Mr 
 Yerhees, was a Belgian gentleman who had come 
 out to Africa on a hunting-trip, but had entered the 
 service of the State at Banana. After stopping- 
 two or three days at Bangala Station, the Stanley 
 departed for Leopoldville, and we were once more 
 left alone.
 
 148 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 EIVER-LIFE IN AFRICA. 
 
 THE MISSING HOUSSAS FROM FALLS STATION — THE LANGA-LANGA — 
 IKOLUNGU AND ITS CHIEF — FOREST OF GUM-COPAL TREES — 
 H.M. IBANZA OF MPEZA — EPIDEMICS IN CENTRAL AFRICA — 
 PALAVER AT UPOTO — CURIOUS OWLS — RETURN TO BANGALA — 
 ATTACKED NEAR B0K:fiL6 — A DESPERATE RUN — CHEAPNESS OF 
 HUMAN LIFE ON THE UPPER CONGO — BA-NGALA DIVERSIONS 
 "OWRE THE "mNE" — LUSENGI AND HIS NEWS — ANOTHER NIGHT 
 RUN — BURNING THE PACKING-CASES — THE EMIN RELIEF EXPE- 
 DITION, 
 
 When I arrived at Bangala from Stanley Falls, 
 after the rescue of Mr Deane, only seventeen out 
 of the forty Houssas who had formed the garrison 
 of Falls Station could he accounted for. Both 
 Deane and Coquilhat were so ill and weak that we 
 had to hurry on in order to reach Leopoldville and 
 put them under the doctor's care, and could not sto23 
 to make inquiries of the natives on the way. Of 
 these seventeen, ten had come down to Bangala 
 bringinof the first news of the disaster, and four 
 had been found with Deane. The other three, who
 
 HOUSSAS CAPTUKED BY THE UPOTO PEOPLE. 149 
 
 had remained with Deane when the panic occurred 
 at the Falls, had afterwards been separated from 
 him and killed by the Arabs, if they did not die of 
 starvation in the bush. There were also at the 
 station a number of women and children — freed 
 slaves ransomed from the Arabs. Of these several 
 had come down with the ten Houssas and forty 
 Ba-Ngala, but the fate of the majority was, like 
 that of the remaining twenty-three Houssas, still 
 a mystery. 
 
 On returning to Bangala after Captain Coquil- 
 hat had gone home, I learnt from Lieutenant Baert 
 that they had been captured by the natives of 
 Upoto — the very people, in fact, who had invited 
 us to fight them on our way up-river. Upoto is 
 one of a group of towns some six days' steaming 
 above Bangala, and separated from it by an im- 
 mense, uninhabited, forest - covered swamp, which 
 takes nearly four days to pass through. The Ba- 
 Ngala call the natives of the country round Upoto 
 Langa - Langa, by which name I shall hereafter 
 distinguish them. 
 
 Mr Baert had bought back one of these Houssas 
 at an exorbitant price, in order to obtain informa- 
 tion from him. This information he had trans- 
 mitted to Boma, asking, at the same time, for 
 orders as to whether he should ransom the rest, or 
 go up to Upoto, and threaten to burn the place 
 unless our men were given up. At the end of
 
 150 RIVER-LIFE IN AFRICA. 
 
 January 1887, Lieutenant Van Kerckhoven, as we 
 have seen, arrived at Bangala and took over the 
 command ; and in the following March, he started 
 in the A. LA. on a visit to the Langa-Langa, to 
 try and liberate the Houssas and women still in 
 their hands. The little steamer was loaded up 
 with brass wire, beads, cowries, cloth, empty bottles, 
 and all the other innumerable articles that pass for 
 money in this part of the world — and off we went. 
 The second day brought us to Ikolungu, a large 
 settlement on the north bank, about four hours 
 steaming above the mouth of the Ngala river. This 
 town stands on a stiff clay bank, and is surrounded 
 by a splendid forest, containing trees from 80 to 
 100 feet high. When I first saw it — on my voyage 
 up to the Falls with Captain Coquilhat — it was at 
 war with Bangala, and was one of the best defended 
 native towns I have seen on the Congo. Along 
 the river-bank, and round the land-side of the 
 town, were palisades, three or four deep, formed 
 of poles 12 feet long and 2 or 3 inches thick, driven 
 into the ground about 9 inches apart, and fastened 
 together by a horizontal stick lashed along, 8 feet 
 above the ground. Inside them, at a distance of 
 10 yards, was another set, three deep, and inside 
 that a third set ; so that the place — belonging as 
 it did, to a powerful tribe — was able to stand a 
 long siege. The defences on the river-bank, how- 
 ever, have now disappeared, and those on the land-
 
 DUA OF IKOLUNGU. 151 
 
 side are in a state of decay ; for the palm-tree lias 
 been cut between the Wabika and the Ba-Ngala, 
 and Dua, chief of Ikolungu, comes down unmolested 
 to Iboko to sell his ivory to the muncleU. All 
 this has been l^rought about by the Free State ; 
 for when the chief of Ikolungu became the blood- 
 brother of the mundele at Bangala, he asked for 
 help to fight the Ba-Ngala, while the Ba-Ngala 
 chief preferred the same request. To all which 
 Captain Coquilhat replied — " Mata Bwyki is my 
 brother, Dua is my brother. If Mata Bwyki and 
 Dua want to fight, I will go into my house and 
 go to sleep till it is all over." So, after a long 
 palaver, the palm-tree was cut, and the war was at 
 an end. The strong current sweeping round the 
 bend of the river at Ikolungu has cut into the 
 bank and carried away the palisades, and they 
 have not been renewed ; while Dua has launched 
 his trading canoes, for peaceable traffic with his 
 old enemies. After his last visit I had the 
 pleasure (?) of towing him, his wives and slaves, 
 up alongside the A. I. A. The poor little steamer 
 had two other large canoes and a whale-boat to tow 
 as well ; but though I growled at the extra strain 
 on the engines, which rendered them more liable 
 to break down, the amusement I had in watching 
 his highness soon dispelled my annoyance ; and 
 I cannot help regretting that Stanley did not — 
 so far as I can discover — make his acquaintance,
 
 152 RIVER-LIFE IX AFRICA. 
 
 as we have thereby lost a graphic and amusing 
 description. Whenever King Dua took a drink 
 of palm-wine, or ate his meals, one of his wives 
 produced a hard brown nut, about the size of an 
 eg-or with one end cut off, and the inside hollowed 
 out. This nut (which I have not succeeded in iden- 
 tifying) he slowly placed on the great toe of his 
 left foot ; this done, the palm-wine or food was 
 placed before him, and a slave-boy came and stood 
 behind him with a hand-bell. Every time he took 
 a mouthful of food, or a drink of massanga or 
 palm-wine, he rapped the bottom of the canoe 
 with the nut on his great toe, wdiile a tinkle 
 on the bell announced to all whom it mio-lit 
 concern that Dua of Ikolungu was eating, or 
 drinking;, as the case misfht be. He went through 
 the same ceremony when smoking, taking a long 
 pull at his pipe for every rap of his toe and tinkle 
 on the bell. I had watched this for some time 
 with great amusement, when the king- observing 
 me, offered me a cup of massanga, which I ac- 
 cepted ; and, not to be behind him in ceremony, 
 before drinking it, turned round and gave some 
 instructions to my fireman. Hardly had I raised 
 the cup to my lips, when a series of short, sharp 
 blasts on the steam-whistle of the A. I. A. made Dua 
 jump almost out of his canoe ; while I, between 
 laughing and drinking, was nearly choked. 
 
 After leaving Ikolungu there is a long stretch of
 
 ORCHILLA-WEED AXD INDIA-RUBBER. 153 
 
 low country which, during several months of the 
 year, is either covered with water or so swampy 
 that no natives have ventured to establish them- 
 selves there. It takes three days, or perhaps a 
 little longer, to steam past this swamp. Stanley 
 has a great deal to say about the beauties of this 
 region, but I must say I was always glad to leave 
 it behind. However, a tree covered with orchilla- 
 weed is indeed a beautiful sight; and a whole forest 
 of trees, with this fleecy, light-green drapery sway- 
 ing about in the wind, is worth going miles to see. 
 It generally grows on gum-copal trees, and I have 
 myself seen the forest of these trees covered with 
 orchilla-weed described by Stanley.^ There is also 
 a creeper which winds itself round the trunks of 
 trees like a huge serpent, and having climbed to 
 the branches and spread over them, drops down 
 numberless ropes, which seem to take root in the 
 ground. The main stem is often four, five, or six 
 inches in diameter, and the hangers from half an 
 inch upwards. If you cut one of these stems clean 
 across with a knife, a white milky sap is seen to 
 exude between the bark and the woody centre — 
 this is india-rubber or caoutchouc. 
 
 Besides these three articles, which will some day 
 help to pay the dividends of the Congo railway, 
 there are thousands of trees whose beautifully 
 grained tmiber has only to be brought to Europe 
 
 ^ The Congo, vol. ii. p. 87.
 
 154 RIVER-LIFE IN AFRICA. 
 
 to find a ready sale. I have cut up dead rosewood- 
 trees for firewood, out of the trunk of which a log 
 two feet in diameter, and from twenty to thirty 
 feet long, of splendid grain, could have been obtain- 
 ed, after the outer casing of white wood had been 
 cut away ; while teak, kingwood, camw^ood, lignum- 
 vitse, and African black oak, are only a few out 
 of the valuable w^oods I have found rotting in 
 the forest, and cut up to feed the insatiable little 
 furnace of the A. I. A. But in spite of the beauty 
 and wealth of this part of the Congo, there seems 
 something depressing in being constantly shut in 
 betw^een two high forest walls ; and I always feel 
 a sort of relief on coming down to the wide open 
 channels about Bolobo, and running through the 
 park-like scenery of the Congo between that village 
 and the Pool, w^here it rolls in a single majestic 
 stream through the glorious hilly country of the 
 Bayanzi and Bateke. 
 
 After the swamp — continuing our upward voyage 
 — comes the village of Mpeza, also on the north bank, 
 whence the ground gradually rises, till, at Upoto, 
 ten miles higher, it ends in a spur of hills wdiich, 
 running out into the river, forms a reef of rock 
 extending to Rubunga on the south bank, over 
 which the Congo rolls in a kind of mild rapid, 
 quite passable for steamers of light draught, ex- 
 cept in one or two channels between the islands 
 near the south bank. It is, however, a dangerous
 
 MPEZA. 155 
 
 place at low water, the rocks being then only two 
 or three feet below the surface, so that the sound- 
 ing-pole and lead-line are kept in constant requi- 
 sition. Mpeza is the first town of the Langa-Langa, 
 and its chief would, by himself, make the fortune 
 of a travelling show. His name is Ibanza — Anglice, 
 the devil ; and truly, were I asked to depict his 
 Satanic majesty, I think I could not do so more 
 accurate^ than by a sketch of this chief. His 
 face is one mass of small fleshy lumps raised by 
 some process known only to the natives — rows of 
 these lumps adorning his forehead, cheeks, nose, 
 and chin, — while his hair and beard are made up 
 into a clotted mass with palm-oil. On his head 
 is a leopard- skin hat, in front whereof is fastened 
 a tin plate presented to him by Mr Van Kerck- 
 hoven. As this is kept brightly polished, it is 
 well to keep out of its range while interviewing 
 his majesty on a sunny day, in order to avoid the 
 risk of sudden blindness from the dazzling reflec- 
 tion as he nods his head, and, extending his 
 elbows, waves them up and down as if about to 
 fly, at the same time ejaculating tvcuj ! ivay ! icay ! 
 way ! — his form of salutation — after which he claps 
 his hands together, and clasping one over the 
 other, gives a most unearthly grin. ]Mpeza is one 
 of the dirtiest and most untidy-looking villages on 
 the whole Congo, and were it more civilised, would 
 soon be decimated by disease. But the heaps
 
 156 RIVER-LIFE IX AFRICA. 
 
 of dirt and refuse lying about will be swejJt by 
 the next storm into the Congo — which must in 
 fact act as the great sewer of Central Africa — 
 and in this way, I believe, disease is averted. 
 For to the terrible storms and great waterways 
 of the African continent may be attributed the 
 comparative immunity from infectious diseases, 
 and the absence of epidemics among the aborigi- 
 nal tribes inhabiting the interior at a distance from 
 ci\dlised communities. The epidemics which have 
 from time to time raged through India and the 
 East seem to be unknown in regions whither 
 neither Christians nor Mohammedans have pene- 
 trated. Smallpox I have heard of as brought 
 from Zanzibar by the Arabs to some place or 
 places east of Stanley Falls ; but neither smallpox 
 nor cholera is known among the natives west of 
 the Falls. Barbadoes leg, elephantiasis, ulcers, and 
 sores, comprise about all the diseases that have 
 come under my observation. That there are others 
 I do not doubt, but not of an epidemic character. 
 "When one considers the general indifference of the 
 natives as regards sanitary conditions, one some- 
 times wonders that the population of whole villages 
 is not carried off by some terrible pestilence ; and 
 the absence of such a scourge I believe to be due 
 partly to the heavy rains and vast rivers which 
 carry off the refuse, and partly to the ants and 
 other insects, and the carrion-eating birds. Nature,
 
 nature's sanitation. 157 
 
 when left alone, does lier own scavengering ; but 
 as civilisation advances, the works of man often 
 interfere wdth the natural drainage, without pro- 
 viding any substitute ; and it is only when the 
 population has been decimated by disease that 
 men's eyes are opened. Europe has had, in the 
 middle ages, many a severe reminder that men 
 cannot live packed in cities like herrings in a 
 barrel ; and had it not been for the great plague 
 and fire of 1665-66, London might still be anything 
 but the healthiest city in the world. Epidemics 
 as terrible and fatal as any that have visited 
 India may yet sweep across Central Africa. It 
 was in the half-civilised middle ages of Europe, 
 when man had not yet been taught by science 
 how to replace the means provided by nature for 
 preserving health, that pestilence slew its thousands 
 and tens of thousands — as it does to-day among 
 the millions herded together in Eastern towms, 
 where nature's remedies have gradually retreated 
 before the advance of man. The primitive savage 
 living in his hut, and enjoying fresh air in plenty, 
 has no need of dust-bin or dust-cart. He plucks 
 and dresses his fowl for dinner in front of his door, 
 throwing all rubbish and dirt to one side. The ants 
 from the large hill close by will soon make short 
 work of any meat he may have left on the bones ; 
 the sexton-beetle will soon bury what remains out 
 of sight, and the wind and rain wash all feathers
 
 158 RIVER-LIFE IN AFRICA. 
 
 and dirt into the river. An African village is 
 always a dirty place, but I have several times 
 noticed a wonderful difference after a tornado, or 
 even a good shower of rain — everything looking 
 quite neat and clean for several days. As civi- 
 lisation advances, roads are made, the ant-hills 
 get destroyed, and hawks and carrion-birds dis- 
 appear before the death-dealing shot-gun. The 
 natives congregate together in large towns without 
 any improvement in their sanitary arrangements, 
 where the salutary effects of wind and rain are 
 probably neutralised by the way in which the 
 streets are built ; and so things go on till disease 
 is generated, and men fall by hundreds. 
 
 Above Mpeza is another large settlement called 
 Bokele, extending some two miles along the river- 
 bank ; and above that, nestling on the lower slope 
 of the range of hills, is Bokuti, opposite which, on 
 an island, is the smaller village of Lulangi. At 
 Bokuti we stopped, and Mr Van Kerckhoven suc- 
 ceeded in buying back three or four women and 
 one Houssa. Finding the natives unwilling to 
 sell the rest, he decided to go on and try again on 
 our return ; so we steamed off round the point to 
 Upoto, which occupies a commanding position on 
 the eastern slope of the hills, with a view right 
 across to Rubunga on the south bank. Having 
 steamed to the upper end of the village, we stopped 
 the engines, and the interpreter, Samba, standing
 
 RANSOMING THE CAPTIVES. 159 
 
 up in the bows, shouted aloud, for the benefit of 
 all whom it might concern, the why and wherefore 
 of our coming. We then anchored off a sand-bank, 
 and awaited the commencement of the palaver. 
 Presently several canoes approached us, and Mr 
 Van Kerckhoven having landed on the bank, the 
 ceremony of blood-brotherhood was gone through, 
 and business began. After one or two of our men 
 had been bought back for an amount of brass wire, 
 cloth, beads, &c., of a value equivalent to between 
 £3 and £4 sterling, and the price had been fixed 
 within certain limits, matters began to progress 
 more rapidly. After we had ransomed three or 
 four, we heard from them that eleven of their 
 number had been killed by the natives, and one or 
 two sold away to other tribes. One of these last 
 was already at Bangala, having been bought back 
 from Bukumbi, a village on the south bank nearly 
 opposite Ikolungu. By nightfall we had bought 
 back five Houssas and sixteen women — among 
 them the woman who had been seized by the Arabs 
 from Stanley Falls Station, in order, as Mr Deane 
 supposed, to furnish a pretext for a quarrel, as, 
 when he sent some Houssas to demand her back, 
 the Arabs fired on them. This woman, I believe, 
 escaped from the Arabs, and came back to the 
 station before the night on which it was aban- 
 doned. 
 
 It was at this place that I saw a very curious
 
 160 RIVER-LIFE IN AFRICA. 
 
 little owl which was brought for sale by some of 
 the Langa-Langa, and bought by Mr Van Kerck- 
 hoven. This owl, when its wings were folded, 
 looked as if it consisted of nothing else but a 
 beak and two huge eyes, surrounded by radiating 
 feathers. Its wings seemed to fold up behind the 
 feathers which surround the eyes, and its feet 
 were completely hidden. When standing still, it 
 looked like a small ball of feathers about six inches 
 in diameter, and when walking about it had the 
 same appearance, only a little more animated. 
 Its cry, which was something like " cook-a-look-a- 
 look-a-look," was very well imitated by the Langa- 
 Langa. It was rather a pretty little bird, on the 
 whole, and I was very sorry that it did not live 
 more than a few hours after it came on board the 
 steam-launch. 
 
 Next morning, as the Upoto people did not seem 
 inclined to part with the rest of their captives, w^e 
 returned to Bokuti, where, after some trouble — due 
 to one of the chiefs, who declared that he would 
 fight, but would sell no more of his slaves — Mr Van 
 Kerckhoven succeeded in Q-ettins; three more women 
 and one Houssa. As these twenty-five people, in 
 addition to our crew and armed force of thirty men, 
 completely filled up the little steamer and the 
 whale-boat, we headed at once for Bangala, where 
 we arrived in four days. This was in March 1887, 
 and the A. I. A. was for some time after employed
 
 WAR-CAXOES. 1 61 
 
 on other business, in an entirely different direction. 
 On the 3d of June, with Lieutenants Van Kerck- 
 hoven and Dhanis on board, she again reached 
 Upoto ; but as we approached the shore, the natives 
 ran down with shields and spears, and would on no 
 account hold any palaver with us, but insisted on 
 fighting. We steamed down to Bokuti, and find- 
 ing that there too the natives were hostile, passed 
 on to Bokele. When we were about half-way past 
 this latter place, Samba drew Mr Van Kerckhoven's 
 attention to several large war-canoes, fully manned 
 and armed, crossing the channel just in front of us, 
 while two or three more were lying half concealed 
 under the bushes on the island. Suddenly the re- 
 port of a flint-lock musket rang out, and a shower 
 of slugs across our bows indicated only too plainly 
 that the natives intended to capture a few more 
 State soldiers, in order to sell them again to the 
 mundele. Two more huge war-canoes emerging 
 from a small creek behind us, showed that they had 
 well thought out the affair beforehand, and now 
 reckoned on having caught us in a trap. How- 
 ever, we had no intention of sitting at their tables, 
 as Charles Lamb has it, " not as guests, but as 
 meat." Out came our Martinis and Winchesters ; 
 the men were furnished with cartridges for their 
 Sniders and Chassepots, and slowing down for a few 
 minutes, we let them have it, right and left, before 
 and behind ; and then, putting on full steam, 
 
 L
 
 162 RIVER-LIFE IX AFRICA. 
 
 charojed straio-ht for the two canoes ahead of us. 
 As we approached, we exchanged our long-range 
 Martinis for the quick-firing Winchesters, and the 
 mighty men of Langa-Langa were soon glad to 
 dive into the river to escape the deadly hail of the 
 repeating-rifles. The whole river-front of the vil- 
 lage was lined with savages, in their war-paint and 
 feathers, popping away at us with flint-lock muskets, 
 and brandishing spears and knives ; while the oc- 
 casional sharp crack of a rifle showed that they 
 w^ere still in possession of the Sniders, and a few of 
 the cartridges taken from the captured Houssas. 
 Their ignorance of the power of our rifles was evi- 
 dent from the way in which they held up their 
 shields of plaited cane whenever they noticed a gun 
 pointed at them. I saw more than one poor wretch 
 put up his shield, only just in time to receive a ball 
 right through it and himself as well, and come roll- 
 ing down the clay bank into the river, dead as a 
 door-nail. We contrived to run the gauntlet and 
 come out scot-free ; but as we had only about thirty 
 men with us, while Bokele could muster some thou- 
 sands, Mr Van Kerckhoven decided to put a good 
 distance between us as quickly as possible. Accord- 
 ingly, we ran down-stream by the light of the moon, 
 which was in her first quarter, and gave a fairish 
 light till towards mornins;, when clouds obscured 
 the sky, and we lost our way, and grounded on a 
 sand-bank. Failing to get off", we anchored where
 
 DIPLOMACY. 163 
 
 we were ; but as soon as the first streaks of dawn 
 showed in the sky, we roused the men, and in half 
 an hour were once more afloat. Having stopped at 
 8 A.M. to cut fuel, which took us some two hours, 
 we proceeded, and finally, about 7 p.m. reached a 
 good camp, where we prepared to spend the night. 
 Before continuing my narrative, I will state the 
 reasons which Mr Van Kerckhoven gave for trying 
 to ransom the Houssas. It may be said that such 
 a course would obviously lead — as in fact it did — 
 to attempts on the part of the natives to capture 
 more of the Free State emjDloyees in order to sell 
 them again. iVt first sight the proper course would 
 seem to be, to go wp with a strong force to retake 
 them, and punish the ofi'enders. Had this been 
 done (and I believe there was at one time some talk 
 of it), the natives, who are almost as cunning as 
 the Indians of North America, would have heard of 
 the expedition long before it reached their country, 
 and hidden their prisoners away far inland ; while 
 the relieving force could have done no more than 
 burn their towns and kill a few dozen savages, with 
 the satisfaction of knowing that, when all was over, 
 the men they had come to save would be beheaded 
 to furnish " funeral baked meats " in honour of the 
 Langa-Langa slain in the fight. Mr Van Kerck- 
 hoven knew the native character too well to be un- 
 aware of this, and resolved accordingly to remove 
 the men first, if possible, and leave the question of
 
 164 RIVER-LIFE IN AFRICA. 
 
 retribution alone for the present. Eleven men had 
 already been beheaded before our first expedition — 
 some of them, perhaps, for trying to escape, others 
 for no earthly reason, unless it might be said that 
 their masters killed them for the fun of the thing ; 
 for this is the only way in which I can account 
 for the wanton murder of so many slaves by these 
 savages. 
 
 In spite of the munificence of King Leopold in 
 founding the Free State — in spite of all that has 
 been, and is being, done to stop the slave-trade — 
 human beings are almost daily killed like so much 
 vermin within a few miles of Bangala Station. I 
 had often, when j)assing the villages just above 
 Bangala, noticed groups of poles standing out of 
 water, to the top of which a piece of cloth was tied. 
 I paid no great attention to them, taking them for 
 fetishes of some kind ; but one clay, happening to 
 ask ]\Ir Van Kerckhoven what they were, I was 
 informed that they were placed to mark the spot 
 where the corpses of decapitated slaves had been 
 thrown into the river. It seems that, at a place 
 called Lusengo, whenever the natives have a great 
 wassaw^a-drinking, they cut ofi" the heads of one 
 or more slaves, and throwing the bodies into the 
 river, set up a pole to mark the place, to the top 
 of which is tied the dead man's loin-cloth. I do not 
 know whether the pole is driven through the body 
 of the victim, but imagine that it is, as, during the
 
 NATIVE OEGIES. 165 
 
 whole time I have been at Bangala, I have not 
 seen above four dead bodies floating down the 
 river ; while above Lusengo I have counted thirty 
 of these poles in less than a mile of river- frontage. 
 I tried to find out from the natives the reason 
 for this slaughter, but never succeeded. They do 
 not deny that they kill their slaves in this fashion, 
 but distinctly repudiate the notion of eating any 
 part of them ; yet, for my part, I am inclined to 
 believe that cannibal feasts occur now and then. 
 
 The authority of the State has so far prevailed 
 that this sort of thing does not, as a rule, take 
 place in Iboko ; but noisy drinking-bouts, which 
 too often end fatally, are far from uncommon. The 
 usual procedure is this : two or three large pots of 
 massanga are brought and set down on the ground, 
 and the company gather round them. When they 
 reach the excited stage of intoxication, sticks and 
 knives are produced — the latter, of native manufac- 
 ture, are very long and sharp — and the play be- 
 gins. Two men stand opposite one another, each 
 holding a knife in his rio;ht hand and a stick in his 
 left, and slashing at the stick held by his opponent 
 till he has succeeded in cutting it through. It may 
 be imagined that, as some very hard hitting is in- 
 dulged in, and the various couples engaged in the 
 game stand crowded together in a very small space, 
 it is not always the sticks alone which suffer ; and 
 the wonder is that so few serious accidents take
 
 166 RIVER-LIFE IN AFRICA. 
 
 place. One evening I happened to be in the village 
 during one of these performances, and saw two men, 
 wrought up to frenzy with massanga and excite- 
 ment, fighting with their knives in good earnest. 
 I expected every moment to see them lose their 
 heads, not only figuratively, but literally ; and 
 seizing a heavy bludgeon from the nearest specta- 
 tor, prepared to join in the fray, thinking that a 
 good blow across the wrist would make both com- 
 batants drop their weapons. However, before I 
 could get near enough to interfere, up rushed a 
 native girl, who, seizing one of these doughty 
 champions in her arms, slung him across her 
 shoulder, as if he had been a baby, and ran away 
 with him. Though so ignominiously borne off", 
 with his head and arms suspended in air, he still 
 brandished his knife, and yelled Ba-Ngala curses at 
 his adversary, who was so overcome by astonish- 
 ment that he staggered backwards, and sat down 
 in a massanga-^ot, thus wasting the staple of the 
 evening's entertainment, and being forced to run 
 for his life to escape the wrath of the disajDpointed 
 drinkers. It was a plucky feat for a Ba-Ngala 
 woman, — they usually run away as soon as the 
 knives make their aj)pearance. Had that dusky 
 ava^ avSpwv, old King Mata Bwyki, " Lord of Many 
 Guns," been alive, he would have laid about 
 among these brawlers with his royal barge-pole, 
 and quickly secured peace and quiet.
 
 1. Execution Knife used by the Ba-Ngala. 6, 7. Dagger and Sheath used by 
 
 2. Knife of the Langa-Langa. the Natives of the Lomami 
 
 3. II 11 Ubika. River. 
 
 4. M II Ariihwinil. 8. Iron used as money at Stan- 
 
 5. Spear-head of tlie Lomami. ley Falls.
 
 STEAMERS ON THE RIVER. 167 
 
 To return to the starting-point of this digres- 
 sion. We had hardly been encamped an hour, and 
 I was just going to sleep, when a large canoe came 
 alongside. It had on board Lusengi, chief of Mobeka 
 who was out amons; the islands of the Cong;o in search 
 of a large tree, of which to make a war-canoe. He 
 told us that an expedition of eight steamers had, 
 four days before, passed up to the Falls by way of 
 the south bank. I have already mentioned that 
 this part of the river is choked with islands ; and 
 just at the spot where we were anchored, there is 
 one over fifty miles long, in the middle of the 
 stream, so that boats may easily miss each other 
 by passing on different sides. As there were not 
 at that time eight steamers afloat on the Upper 
 Congo, we allowed for native exaggeration ; and 
 concluding that an expedition of perhaps three or 
 four steamers and two whale-boats had been fitted 
 out to recapture the Falls, Mr Van Kerckhoven 
 gave orders to start at once, and reach Bangala as 
 quickly as possible, to hear what orders had arrived 
 for the A.LA. 
 
 Having been up all the preceding night, I did 
 not rejoice at the prospect before us ; but there 
 was no help for it, and I turned to and got up 
 steam . again — somewhat consoled by the thought 
 that possibly Deane might again be on his way to 
 the Falls, and it might be my lot to join him there. 
 As the fire had not long been out of the boiler,
 
 168 RIVER-LIFE IX AFRICA. 
 
 this was quickly accomplished, and before 9 p.m. 
 we were off, rushing down-stream at the rate of 
 eight miles an hour through the dark night — the 
 moon, hidden by heavy clouds, just giving light 
 enough to impart a dull grey gleam to the water. 
 Mr Dhanis took his place in the bows, with Dua, 
 our interpreter, who, having been up and down 
 with us several times, was supposed to know the 
 road well. He did not fail to keep up his reputa- 
 tion. How he could tell one channel from another, 
 with nothing to guide him but the two dark walls 
 of forest, and the glimmer of grey water between 
 them, I do not know ; but only once, during 
 the whole night, did the sounding -pole touch 
 bottom. 
 
 On we rushed through the silent night, hearing 
 only the puffing and panting of the engine, and the 
 wash of the water, as it parted before our bows, or 
 was churned into foam by the propeller. Occasion- 
 ally, as we passed a grassy swamp, the croaking of 
 numberless frogs would come to our ears, or a bird, 
 disturbed from its roost on a neighbouring tree, 
 would fly off with a shrill scream ; but beyond this 
 everything was quiet, and black as the grave. Now 
 in a broad open reach, which looked limitless in 
 the darkness ; now through a narrow^ channel, 
 where we could see no outlet through the dense 
 shadows that seemed to bar our path ahead ; now
 
 FUEL RUNS SHORT. 169 
 
 bnishing against some overhanging bushes, as the 
 steersman, deceived by the obscurity, hugged the 
 shore a little too closely; and then taking a sudden 
 sheer to right or left, to avoid a snag which Dua's 
 cat-like eyes had espied in front. Hour after hour 
 passed : now and then we would get a momentary 
 gleam of moonlight through the clouds ; but this 
 was seldom, and we were soon again left in utter 
 darkness. I could hardly keep my eyes open, and, 
 more than once, nearly fell asleep over the engine 
 from utter weariness. In the middle of the nioht 
 I gave up, and, calling the Zanzibari greaser, lay 
 down and slept for a couple of hours. I got up 
 aojain about 3 a.m. Mr Van Kerckhoven had re- 
 lieved Mr Dhanis at the look-out. The engines 
 were working beautifully, and steam had kept up 
 well, so I opened the stop- valve a little more. The 
 palm-oil lamps were beginning to burn low, and 
 everything about the engine was in a dirty greasy 
 state — as, in the dim light, it had not been possible 
 to avoid spilling the oil over it. But we had passed 
 the great swamp between Ikolungu and Langa- 
 Langa, and were approaching our destination, for 
 now and then we could catch a glimpse of villages 
 and banana-plantations. Steam was getting low, 
 and on going to find out the cause, I discovered 
 that we were running short of fuel. I had once 
 before, in a similar case, imitated the Yankees on
 
 170 RIVER-LIFE IX AFRICA. 
 
 the Mississippi, aud burned a "bacon-ham"; but 
 then I had only a mile to go to reach the station, 
 whereas we were now nearly forty miles from 
 Ban gala, and there were not hams enough on 
 board (even had there been enough in the whole 
 region of the Upper Congo), to have kept up steam 
 for four or five hours — the time necessary to do 
 that distance. 
 
 I aroused Mr Dhanis : we neither of us liked to 
 stop ; so we began tearing the tarred canvas cover- 
 ings off the bales of cloth, and breaking up all the 
 wooden packing-cases we had on board, and man- 
 aged in this way to keep going. At last the long 
 night was over, and daylight began to appear. Mr 
 Van Kerckhoven came to ask me whether — suppos- 
 ing the expedition that had gone up river was, as we 
 conjectured, intended for the recapture of Stanley 
 Falls — I could have the steamer ready to start 
 again next day. I replied, Yes ; and as we neared 
 the station, I began to get everything ready for 
 cleaning out the boiler, and makinoj the few neces- 
 sary preparations for an immediate start. Towards 
 9 A.M. (May 28th, 1887) we came in sight of the 
 station, and perceived the Europeans hastening 
 dowTi to the shore to meet us. As we approached 
 the landing-place, I took out the fire and began to 
 blow the water out of the boiler, in order to save 
 as much time as possible. As soon as I could get
 
 EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 171 
 
 a minute to spare, I went to Mr Baert to hear the 
 news, and learned that our race through the 
 darkness had been all for nothing. The boats we 
 had passed did not carry an army for the recapture 
 of Stanley Falls, but the advance column of Stan- 
 ley's expedition for the relief of Emin Pasha.
 
 172 
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 STANLEY ON THE CONGO — NEWS FROM HOME— THE UNPRINCIPLED 
 BARUTI AND HIS AWFUL FATE — STANLEY AND THE MISSIONARIES 
 — THE HENRY REED SEIZED TO EXPLORE THE LOIKA — A "REAL 
 MEAN river" — CHIEF OF UPOTO SEIZED AS A HOSTAGE — FEVER 
 — NGALYEMa's cow — L^OPOLDVILLE AGAIN — ANIMAL LIFE ON 
 THE RIVER — BEAUTY OF THE BAT^KlS COUNTRY — * JOYCE ' — 
 REMINISCENCES OP CIVILISATION — REMARKABLE EFFECTS OF 
 HOME LETTERS WHEN FIRST OPENED — THE HUNTERS' CAMP ON 
 LONG ISLAND — DUALLA ISLAND — LUKOLELA — MY BULL'S-EYE 
 CREATES A SENSATION. 
 
 Stanley on tlie Congo ! I exclaimed. Why, I 
 thought he was in America ! And who under the 
 canopy was Emin Pasha ? and what did he want 
 relieving for? While, as for Tippoo Tip, who, it 
 seemed, was going up as the new Governor of the 
 Falls, — I had indeed heard of him before, but only 
 as one of the marauding Arabs whom we were so 
 anxious to expel from the territory of the State. It 
 must be remembered that, for about four months, I 
 had received no news from the civilised world, in
 
 NEWS FROM MPUTU. l73 
 
 any shape or form ; and the whole was naturally a 
 complete puzzle to me. 
 
 At length, when all was made fast — it being Sun- 
 day, of which, as I was completely tired out, I was 
 heartily glad — I went to the chief's room to receive 
 my mail ; and having shouldered the sack which 
 was handed me as my own share, and sought the 
 solitude of my own room, I cut it open, and com- 
 menced pulling out the welcome letters and papers. 
 But I was too utterly weary to read ; and after 
 vainly attempting to make out the meaning of one 
 of the letters, I gave it up, and using the mail-bag 
 as a pillow, lay down in the middle of the room, 
 and slept till night, when I was awakened by my 
 boy, with the information that dinner was ready. 
 Having revived exhausted nature with some india- 
 rubber-like goat-steak and yams, I returned to my 
 room with a pot of palm-oil ; and having rigged up 
 a lamp with this, I once more set to work at my 
 letters, and looked up Emin Pasha — only to be 
 maddened by finding that while I was running 
 down the rig-ht bank of the river several friends of 
 mine had passed me on the left ! These were men 
 who had been on the Congo when I first came out, 
 and had gone home when they had finished their 
 time — afterwards returning to Africa with Stanley's 
 expedition. 
 
 Besides all this, I received a letter telling me 
 that Mr Arthur Jephson, whom I had known at
 
 174 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 school many years before, had accompanied Stan- 
 ley, and found, on inquiry, that this gentleman had 
 passed on with the advance-guard. I was, however, 
 consoled by hearing that Messrs Troup and Ward 
 were still at Leopoldville, and that I should prob- 
 ably see them as they passed up. I had been nearly 
 five months ^dthout seeing an Englishman or hear- 
 ing news from Europe, and knew nothing whatever 
 of the Emin Relief Expedition. Not a whisper of 
 it had reached us ; and Stanley himself was the 
 first to announce, by his appearance on the scene, 
 that he had returned to the Congo. 
 
 After this, the A. I. A. was kept pretty busy, in 
 the immediate neighbourhood of Bangala, till the 
 end of the month ; but in July the steamers Stem- 
 ley, Peace, and Henry Reed returned from the 
 Aruhwimi. Among other items of news, Captain 
 Shagerstrom (of the Stanley) reported that Mr 
 Stanley's boy, Baruti (whom he had freed from 
 slavery on one of his former expeditions, taken 
 to Europe, and educated), had, on getting back 
 to his own country, decamped, taking with him 
 Stanley's revolver and rifle. I afterwards heard 
 that he had been killed and eaten by his own 
 countrymen. 
 
 The Stanley and Peace, having taken in suffi- 
 cient supplies of firewood, left next day for Leo- 
 poldville, — the former to fetch up the rear-guard 
 of the Stanley Expedition, and the latter to return
 
 THE AFFAIR OF THE HEXRY EEED. 175 
 
 to her missionary duties ; but the Henry Reed 
 was seized upon by the officers of the State to take 
 an expedition up the Loika or Itimbiri river. This 
 steamer had been first asked for, then demanded, 
 and finally seized, by Stanley, on his arrival at 
 Leopoldville, when the State authorities, ujDon 
 being appealed to by the missionaries, interfered, 
 and hired the steamer from the Mission at the rate 
 of £100 a month — the sum that had previously 
 been off'ered by ]\Ir Stanley. A great many letters 
 were written to the newspapers about this affair 
 at the time, and a great many people, doubtless, 
 formed their ideas about it from a legal point of 
 view, as they would have done had the event 
 occurred in England. To those on the spot things 
 look very diff"erent. Here was Stanley, with 600 
 men and several tons of stores and ammunition, 
 passing through some 250 miles of disturbed coun- 
 try, and expecting to find, on his arrival at Stanley 
 Pool, several steamers in readiness to transport his 
 expedition to regions where it could obtain more 
 food than in the much -traversed district of the 
 Livingstone Cataracts. Hardly had he left Matadi, 
 when he heard that one steamer (the En Avant) 
 was out of water for repairs, and her engines unfit 
 for use, owing to the absence of some portions 
 which were worn out and required replacing. 
 Another boat was away at Bangala, some 500 miles 
 up-river. He wrote several times to the mission-
 
 176 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 aries asking for the use of the Henry Reed, and 
 was refused. He arrived at Leopoldville, where a 
 scarcity of food had already prevailed for some 
 time — the sudden influx of 600 additional mouths 
 was naturally more than such a country could 
 stand, and the food-supplies threatened to give out. 
 Stanley, fully realising the state of affairs, resorted 
 to demands; and as the missionaries — who acknow- 
 ledged that they did not want to use the steamer 
 for a month to come, and could perfectly under- 
 stand the position in which he was placed — still 
 refused, he sent downi men and seized her. The 
 missionaries then appealed to the State, whereupon 
 down marched a troop of soldiers belonging to the 
 Government, to displace Stanley's men, and take 
 possession of the steamer while negotiations were 
 carried on. These ended in the State hiring the 
 steamer for £100 per month, and handing her over 
 to Stanley. 
 
 From a legal point of view the missionaries were, 
 no doubt, perfectly justified in refusing the use of 
 their steamer. It was their property, and every 
 one has a right to do as he likes with his own ; but, 
 knowing the circumstances in which Stanley was 
 placed, and not having any use for the steamer for 
 the next month, it was, to say the least of it, very 
 unwise in them to do so, and thus force him to 
 seize the boat, because (which one or two of them 
 acknowledged to me was the reason of their refusal)
 
 EXPLORATIOX OF THE LOIKA. 177 
 
 they did not quite approve of tlie use to wliicli she 
 was to be put. 
 
 Stanley, though perhaps legally in the wrong, 
 was, under the circumstances, quite right in seizing 
 the steamer, having already offered the exorbitant 
 price of £100 per month for her. Had he not acted 
 as he did, we should probably have heard of fights 
 between his men and the natives round Leopold- 
 ville, as it would have been impossible to keep 600 
 hungry savages from stealing food in the neighbour- 
 ing villages. The Peace, belonging to the Baj)tist 
 Mission, was handed over to Stanley when he 
 asked for her, and duly handed back on her return 
 from the Aruhwimi, as the Henry Reed would 
 have been, had she been, in like manner, willingly 
 lent. Having, however, been chartered by the 
 State, she was, on her way down-stream, stopped 
 by some State officials at Bangala ; and, in July 
 1887, I was sent on board her, and we started off, 
 in company with the A. I. A., to explore the Loika, 
 a tributary running into the Congo between Yam- 
 bunga and Yalulima. I am not sure of the precise 
 object of this exploration ; but I believe the in- 
 tention was to found a station on the upper river, 
 and so gain access to the north - eastern portion 
 of the Congo Free State. However, the country 
 proved altogether unsuitable for the purpose, and 
 we had a most miserable time of it, as we could get 
 very little except bananas to eat — goats and fowls 
 
 M
 
 178 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 being very scarce, and the country entirely un- 
 cultivated. I came away with a very poor impres- 
 sion of the Loika, and have no desire ever to visit 
 it again. 
 
 We did not entirely lose our labour, as, on the 
 way up, we stopped at Upoto, and the natives — 
 whether impressed by the lesson they had received 
 when they tried to fight us, or overawed by the 
 sight of the steamers and men of the Emin Pasha 
 Relief Expedition — were this time more peaceably 
 inclined. AVe ransomed one more Houssa and 
 three women ; and the chief of Upoto, coming on 
 board the A. I. A. to beg for a present from his 
 blood-brother, Mr Van Kerckhoven (whom he had 
 tried to kill only a month ago), was seized and 
 held as security for the rest. It was then believed 
 that there were only three more women in the 
 hands of the Langa-Langa ; and as these three 
 were not forthcoming within a given time, the 
 chief accompanied us up the Itimbiri, to be restored 
 to his people on our return, on condition of their 
 surrendering the women. But on our return, when 
 only two days from Upoto, the chief escaped 
 through the carelessness of the Houssas, who had 
 him in charge. I was at this time on board the 
 Henry Reed ; and as she returned to Bangala along 
 the south bank, I knew nothing of what took place 
 at Upoto when the A. I. A. passed it, beyond the 
 fact that there was some shooting.
 
 ACCIDENT TO THE STAXLEY. 179 
 
 About the 1st of August we once more reached 
 Bangala. I had a bad fever, and as soon as the 
 fires were out and I could leave the engine, I went 
 and lay down in the cabin of the Henry Reed. 
 I was too enervated and feverish to take much 
 notice of outside sounds, and was but dimly con- 
 scious of the arrival of the Stanley, which came up 
 from Leopoldville about two hours after we were 
 made fast, till Troup and Ward came to look for 
 me, and helped me uj) to my room. 
 
 The Stanley was several days behind the time 
 when we had expected her. She had left Leopold- 
 ville with Messrs Troup, Ward, and Bonny on 
 board, in charge of the men and stores of the 
 Emin Belief Expedition rear -guard. Soon after 
 passing Lukolela, she had struck a snag and 
 knocked a hole in her bows, which had delayed 
 her for some days. She left next day for the 
 Aruhwimi ; and both the A. I. A. and the Henry 
 Reed, being in need of repairs, started for Leopold- 
 ville, after remaining only two days at Bangala. 
 On her way up with Stanley's expedition the 
 Henry Reed had carried Tippoo Tip and his suite 
 up to Stanley Falls, where Tippoo was established 
 as governor of the district for the Congo Free 
 State. In passing through Leopoldville, Tippoo 
 had made the acquaintance of Ngalyema, and on the 
 departure of the Henry Reed from Stanley Falls, 
 had sent a fine cow as a present to his new friend.
 
 180 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 This COW had been put ashore at Bangala, while 
 the Henry Reed explored the Loika, and we now 
 took her on board the hull of the En A rant (which 
 had been used by Stanley as a lighter), to be 
 towed down to her destination. When we arrived 
 at Equator, we found Mr Glave, who had returned 
 to Africa for the Sanford Exploring Expedition, in 
 charge of the station ; and he (in common with 
 all the Europeans) cast envious glances on the cow 
 — the first beef we had seen for many days — which 
 we thought a great deal too good for Ngalyema. 
 
 On August 10th I again reached Leopoldville, 
 after an absence of nine months. Ngalyema was 
 sent for, and came down, with his wives and slaves, 
 to receive his cow. This cow was the mildest of all 
 mild animals, but, like others of her species, did not 
 like being pulled about, and being a little obstinate, 
 refused to cross the planks put for her to walk ashore 
 by. The captain of the steamer then got together 
 as many Zanzibaris as could be crowded into the 
 En Avant, and they lifted the cow bodily out on 
 the beach, which she resented with a loud " moo." 
 Hereupon Ngalyema and his mighty warriors, who 
 had, during these proceedings, kept at a respect- 
 ful distance, turned tail and fled along the shore — 
 the cow following at a trot, and mooing at intervals. 
 
 Leopoldville itself had changed little since I last 
 saw it, a new store or two being all the additions to 
 the buildings of the station ; but the lower end of
 
 NEW STEAMERS ON THE POOL. 181 
 
 Stanley Pool — or rather the six miles of the Congo 
 between the Pool and " Leo " — presented quite a 
 lively appearance, with the English, American, 
 Dutch, and French flags flying from the difl'erent 
 missions and trading factories now established. The 
 coup d'oeil was somewhat spoilt, a month later, by 
 an edict from Boma, which enacted that no flag but 
 that of the State was to be displayed on any of the 
 flag-staff's on the Upper Congo. The French tri- 
 colour still continued to enliven the scene on the 
 north bank ; but on the south side all flags dis- 
 appeared, w^ith the exception of that on Leopold 
 Hill and of the Dutch factory flag, which was re- 
 moved to a pole on one of the houses. As the 
 Henry Reed steamed towards Nshassa, a large stern- 
 wheeler, shining with new paint, and carrying the 
 stars and stripes, approached us. She turned out 
 to be the Florida, the newly launched steamer of 
 the Sanford Exploring Expedition, now established 
 in the old State station at Nshassa. On the beach 
 before the Dutch factory, and also before that of 
 Daumas, Beraud et C'"-, on the north bank, were the 
 nearly finished hulls of two more steamers ; while 
 at Leopoldville, the frames and plates of the Roi 
 des Beiges, another stern-wheeler, belonging to the 
 " Compagnie du Congo pour le Commerce et ITndus- 
 trie," were only awaiting the arrival of the engineers 
 to be put together ; and the beams and planks of 
 the Ville de Briixelles, a wooden stern-wheeler for
 
 182 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 the State, were daily arriving via Lukungu and 
 Manyanga. The Henry Reed having been handed 
 back to the Livingstone InLand ]\Iission, I rejoined 
 the A. I. A., and having thoroughly overhauled her, 
 left for Bangala, August 23d, with Mr Van Kerck- 
 hoven on board, besides a Belgian soldier for Ban- 
 gala, and an Enorlishman in the service of the San- 
 ford Company, going to Equator. Being heavily 
 loaded, and travelling slowly, we only arrived Sep- 
 tember 11th. On the 29th, the Houssas at Bangala 
 had completed their three years' term of service, 
 which obliged me to take another trip to the Pool. 
 Accordingly, the men having been packed on board 
 almost as tightly as figs in a box, we started ; and 
 though I had not been three weeks at Bangala, it 
 was no small relief to escape once more from the 
 forested plain that extends almost uninterruptedly 
 from Lukolela to the Aruhwimi, and emerge into the 
 broad channels above Bolobo, with their park-like 
 banks and grass-covered uplands. Here " hippos " 
 may be seen by the hundred — sometimes in ones 
 and twos, more often in herds of from ten to thirty 
 — standing in the shallow water, or swimming about 
 just under the lee of a sand-bank, diving, and re- 
 turning to the surface with a loud snort. Now and 
 then one may be observed lifting his head out of 
 the water, and slowly opening his jaws preparatory 
 to relieving the tedium of hippo life with a yawn. 
 Slowly and smoothly, as if worked by hydraulic
 
 SOMETHING LIKE A YAWX. 183 
 
 machinery, his jaws expand, as he raises his head 
 clear of the water — wider and wider becomes his 
 mouth, till his tusks gleam white in the sunlight, 
 and you wonder if it would not be possible, were 
 one near enough, to look down and survey his last 
 meal in process of digestion. But he has not done ! 
 Another stretch opens his jaws some six inches 
 wider, and just as you are expecting to see him turn 
 inside out, he closes with a loud snap, and with a 
 splash disappears from view. I have seen a hippo 
 seize a canoe of nearly two feet beam in his mouth, 
 which will give some idea of the extent to which he 
 is capable of opening that feature in an ordinary 
 way ; but even that is nothing to one of his yawns. 
 Flocks of ducks may be seen on the sand-banks of 
 this part of the river, and form a welcome change 
 of " chop " when one can get near enough to shoot 
 one or two ; here also is the beautiful white heron, 
 in company with pelicans and flamingoes, and an 
 occasional adjutant-bird,^ gravely stalking up and 
 down a stretch of sand ; while flocks of jacos or 
 
 ^ Talking of adjutant-birds, 1 heard a good story from iSlr Richards 
 of the Raptist Mission at Liikolela. It seems that Mr Comber, of 
 the same mission, used to keep a tame adjutant at Lutete (or Wathen) 
 Station, which roamed about the station-yard, with clipped wings, in 
 company with monkeys, parrots, and other pets — among them a 
 kitten belonging to Mr Comber. One day this kitten was heard 
 mewing piteously, though it was nowhere to be seen. At last, notic- 
 ing that the sounds appeared to proceed from the adjutant, who was 
 standing with his beak wide open, as though engaged in swallowing 
 something with an effort, Mr Comber walked up to him, and looking
 
 184 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITIOX. 
 
 grey parrots, easily distinguished by the short, 
 quick, agitated motion of their wings, fly screaming 
 overhead. As the steamer rushes past the low 
 banks — the grasses, reeds, and papyrus swaying 
 about in the wash of the screw — a sudden rush and 
 loud splash announce the hasty retreat of a croco- 
 dile, disturbed in the middle of his afternoon nap 
 by a rushing fiery monster, which is come and 
 gone almost before he knows what has happened. 
 On a low sand-spit, projecting beyond the grasses, 
 may sometimes be seen a monster crocodile, per- 
 haps upwards of fifty feet long ; at any rate, I have 
 seen several considerably longer than the little 
 A.I.A., and she measures forty-two feet. On one 
 occasion I had landed on a large sand-bank to shoot 
 ducks. Having bagged one, and seeing that the 
 rest had alighted beyond a low ridge of sand, I 
 stooped down and crawled along behind the ridge 
 till I thought I was within range, when I raised my 
 head and looked over. Sure enough there were the 
 
 down his throat, saw the end of the kitten's tail about to disappear. 
 Thereupon, he grasped the tail and hauled the kitten out, still alive. 
 Mr Richards told me that the truth of this story had been doubted 
 in England ; for my part I see no reason to disbelieve it, and would 
 recommend those who do to pay a visit to the Zoo and inspect the 
 adjutants there. Those I have seen on the Congo held their heads 
 as high as a tall man, and had beaks and throats of enormous capacity, 
 adapted — like those of pelicans and other birds which lead a similar 
 life — to the catching and swallowing whole of large fish. The Lutete 
 adjutant, I am told, on another occasion, swallowed a small dead 
 monkey entire. As for the kitten — it is a well-known fact that cats 
 have nine lives.
 
 A HUGE SAUEIAN. 185 
 
 ducks, not fifty yards from me, while half -way 
 between me and them lay the biggest crocodile I 
 had yet seen. Comparing him with the A. I. A., 
 which lay in deep water some 300 yards off, I 
 reckoned him to be quite fifty feet long ; while 
 the centre of the saw-like ridge on the top of his 
 back must have been about four feet above the sand 
 on which his belly rested. Having only a shot- 
 gun with me, I had, on first seeing him, sent a 
 native boy who was with me for my rifle, and 
 made the foreooino; observations while waitins; for 
 his return. The crocodile, meantime, took no notice 
 of me — either because he was asleep, or because 
 I was out of his sigrht, beinsf, to use a nautical 
 term, on his starboard quarter — while taking care 
 to keep well out of range of his huge tail. As the 
 boy was a long time coming, I considered it advis- 
 able to get a little further off, and in so doing 
 alarmed the ducks, which flew away to another 
 bank. As we were quite out of meat on board, 
 this sight so wrought upon my feelings that, for- 
 getting all about the crocodile, I took a snap shot 
 after the ducks, which I missed, but so frightened 
 the huge saurian that he made off for the water, 
 scattering the sand far and wide with a sweep of 
 his tail. 
 
 Some miles back, across the grassy plains (which 
 abound in herds of tawny and black buffalo), may 
 be seen the hill-ranges, which, gradually coming
 
 186 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 nearer, form the liio-h banks of the river about 
 Bolobo. Here, where the islands are fewer and 
 more scattered, the full breadth of the lordly- 
 river (between four and five miles) comes into 
 view ; while on a clear sunny day the hills on 
 the north bank form a splendid panorama, especially 
 when the sun, setting behind them, bathes the 
 scene in purple and gold. On the south side, the 
 high rocky banks, crowned with villages nestling 
 in groves of palms and bananas, form a welcome 
 change from the monotonous flatness of the plain 
 behind us. 
 
 From Bolobo to the Kwa the river is fairly 
 straight, narrowing down to some two miles, with 
 the hills rising in height on either side ; and a run 
 down on the strong current, when the evening 
 breeze has tempered the heat of the day, amply 
 repays one for the toilsome ascent. From the 
 mouth of the Kwa its course is nearly due south for 
 about ten miles, when, being suddenly deflected to 
 the east by the rocky point of Ganchu, it scoops a 
 large bay out of the left bank ; and finding another 
 rocky barrier opposed to its course in that direction, 
 rushes back to the west, just below the point ; and 
 then, both banks being rocky, again takes a south- 
 ward course, the water below the point whirling and 
 seething as if angry at being forced to turn aside. 
 Below this, on the left bank, is Gobila's (a portrait 
 of this chief may be seen in ' The Congo,' vol. i.
 
 HILL SCENERY. 187 
 
 p. 508), near the spot where Mswata station once 
 stood. Here' we stopped to buy a fowl or two ; 
 and having already been plentifully supplied with 
 fresh vegetables by the French missionaries of St 
 Paul du Kassai, we considered ourselves very well 
 off in the matter of victuals. 
 
 Below Gobila's the river winds between towering 
 hills — those on the right bank, which are the highest, 
 being covered with thick forests, alternating with 
 patches of long grass. The forest mostly occupies 
 the valleys and lower slopes of the hills, their tops 
 being clothed with grass ; but now and then one 
 sees a hill, the top of which is covered with forest, 
 while the sides are bare or grass-grown ; while hills 
 entirely forested or grass-covered occasionally form 
 a pleasing contrast. Those on the left bank are 
 mostly covered with grass — a low scrubby forest 
 lining the river ; while fan - palms {Hyph(Bne 
 guineensis), singly or in groves, are seen at 
 intervals. As we descend, the river narrows, 
 till, just below Pururu Island, it is not much 
 more than one mile and a quarter wide, though 
 of tremendous depth, after which the width again 
 increases as we near the Pool. Pururu Island is 
 quite a picture in itself — the upper half being 
 covered with a splendid grove of fan-palms, while 
 the lower is clothed with thick forest, where 
 elephants may sometimes be seen tearing down 
 branches from the trees to get at the young leaves.
 
 188 THE EMIX RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 A little below this is Dualla Island, smaller in ex- 
 tent and entirely covered witli forest ; and then 
 we come into view of a Ijrown rocky cliff on the 
 right bank, from the top of which the forest 
 stretches away up the slope of the hills. On the 
 opposite side, a little lower down, is One Palm 
 Point — a rocky ridge projecting into the river, 
 and marked by a splendid Hyphcene palm standing 
 conspicuously out above the low scrub. 
 
 But amid all this wealth of scenic grandeur and 
 glory, I could not help feeling that " I love better 
 the crags of Arthur's Seat, and the sea coming in 
 ayont them." These words of Sir AValter Scott's had 
 been forcibly brought back to my memory a short 
 time before this date, by reading ]\Irs Oliphant's 
 ' Joyce,' which one of my kind friends in Scotland 
 had sent out to me among; a lot of other literature. 
 One stifling evening, after a hard day's work, I was 
 vainly trying to get to sleep. Under a mosquito- 
 curtain it was too hot and close, and outside the 
 vicious insects gave me no peace. I picked up the 
 first book I found in my box, and, getting a light, 
 began wearily to turn over the leaves. A graphic 
 description of a steamboat-pier on a dark night 
 arrested my attention and brought back refreshing 
 memories of former days spent on the Firth of 
 Clyde, revelling in the beauties of bonnie Scotland. 
 As I read on, the lovely view of the Thames valley 
 from Eichmond Hill, so ably described, with all its
 
 -x^^( 
 
 .>' ■>ii,' ^ ■'■ ■-' 
 
 
 
 -■■^ '■^'
 
 ANTICIPATED PLEASURES. 189 
 
 pleasant associations, rose up vividly before me ; 
 and presently I went to sleep, spite of mosquitoes 
 and heat — to awake refreshed at dawn next day. 
 Should the authoress of that book ever read these 
 lines, I hope she will accept my sincere thanks. 
 It brought to my mind's eye the long, parallel 
 straight lines of shining metal in dear old England 
 which some people think so ugly — the memory 
 of which speaks to me of being whirled over the 
 ground in comfortable carriages, at the rate of forty 
 to sixty miles per hour — of palatial hotels, and 
 well-cooked meals on snowy table-cloths, and kind 
 friends waiting to welcome the wanderer home. It 
 is on visions like these that travellers live throus^h 
 the hours of utter misery which they are sure to 
 experience in countries like Africa. When tired 
 and enervated, perhaps hungry and thirsty, the 
 remembrance of lordly London and her imperial 
 pleasures rises up and nerves them to make one 
 more effort to overcome their present difficulties, in 
 hopes of the reward to come. Stanley himself has 
 been heard to say that he preferred a lumj) of 
 kwcmga in an African swamp to all the banquets 
 in creation — and why ? Because it is only under 
 such circumstances that one can properly appreciate 
 the luxuries of civilisation. A man who is always 
 eating sugar soon ceases to find any pleasure in 
 the taste. In the same way, a man who always 
 lives a civilised life, though he may be fairly happy,
 
 190 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 can never experience such intense enjoyment of its 
 blessings as one who knows and has tried the toils, 
 dangers, and hardships of savage countries. 
 
 Rounding One Palm Point on a strong current, 
 we came in view of Lissa Market, and the En Avant 
 lying among the long grass that fringed the shore. 
 This brave little steamer, w'hich had first borne 
 Stanley up the Congo, was now on her way to mount 
 the Oubangi, whence she did not return till she 
 had solved the vexed question of that river's iden- 
 tity with the Welle-Makua. As it was about 5 
 P.M., we steamed in and camped alongside her ; 
 and Captain Van Gele having given me my mails 
 (which he was taking up to Equator), I retired to 
 the A. I. A., where, my boy having made up my 
 bed, I pushed aside the mosquito-net and lay 
 down to digest some home news before going to 
 dine on board the En Avant. 
 
 The sun was just setting, and some Houssas 
 ashore cutting wood were singing to the tune of 
 " Sailing, sailing — over the bounding main ! " 
 " Sailing, sailing ! " — how it carried my thoughts 
 back to an almost forgotten August evening, when 
 I stood on the pier at Dunoon, with a bonnie Scotch 
 lassie by my side, waiting for the Lord of the Isles 
 to convey me to Greenock. The broad Clyde rolled 
 in front, and beyond, the Cloch lighthouse, bathed 
 in the glow of the setting sun, stood forth, white and 
 gleaming, from the background of woods and hills
 
 "SAILING, sailing!" 191 
 
 that stretched away behind Gourock. A little one- 
 eyed newsboy was singing " Sailing, sailing," to a 
 circle of gentlemen who had started him off by the 
 gift of a few coppers. It was my last day in Scot- 
 land, and the steamer that w^as to take me away 
 was lying at the Tail of the Bank, in all her glory 
 of new paint and polished brass, fresh from the 
 builder s yard. I had run over from Greenock to 
 say good-bye to some friends at Dunoon before 
 leaving the country for an indefinite time, and the 
 young lady who had come to see me off was very 
 much distressed at my going to sea, and wanted 
 me, even at the eleventh hour, to give up my ship 
 and stop in England. Poor girl ! she had cause to 
 dread the great ocean, which she had only viewed 
 along the western shore of her native land ; for a 
 cousin of hers had but a short time previously gone 
 to sea in a Glasgow steamer — his first voyage, I 
 believe — and before the vessel was well clear of the 
 Irish seas, had been washed overboard during' a 
 gale and drowned. I had never seen her from that 
 day to this ; and now, in the calm of an African 
 evening, the whole scene came back to me as clear 
 as noonday. What had become of the little one- 
 eyed newsboy ? — what ? " Sacre nom de 
 
 guerre ! quest-ce que c'est Id ? " burst from the ofiicer 
 in charge of the boat, and both he and I began sneez- 
 ing, and sneezed till the tears ran down our faces. 
 I had, while basking in the "light of other days,"
 
 192 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITIOX. 
 
 opened the first of my letters, and a cloud of pepper 
 falling out, had caused the sensation. The first 
 few words of the letter explained everything. I 
 had, on a former occasion, told my correspondent 
 that, as letters took about six months to reach me, 
 they had better be salted in order to keep the news 
 fresh ; and he had accordingly not only salted his, 
 but peppered it as well, — and to such an extent 
 that I wonder some of the post-office officials did 
 not sneeze their heads ofi". 
 
 Next morning (October 6th) we were ofi" with 
 daylight, and passing the spot where the Wampomo 
 discharges its inky waters into the main stream, 
 and Palmyra Bay — near which a reef of rocks lurks 
 in mid-stream, just below the water, to catch unwary 
 steamers — we entered the Pool about ten o'clock, 
 and before three in the afternoon were once more 
 made fast alongside the Stanley on "Leo" beach — 
 within two or three days of a year from the time I 
 had arrived from Stanley Falls with Captain Coquil- 
 hat and Mr Deane. The A.I. A. had been j^retty 
 nearly run to pieces by this time, having had — be- 
 sides being herself heavily laden — to tow a whale- 
 boat of nearly her own size ; and the rej^airs 
 which I had to undertake, as well as a slight 
 attack of fever, delayed our departure for Ban- 
 gala till October 27th. 
 
 Having cleared Nshassa, we were steaming across 
 the Pool when my eye was caught by a tent erected
 
 NIMRODS OF THE CONGO. 193 
 
 on Long Island on a spot well known to me a year 
 before as a favourite hunting - camp of Captain 
 Bayley. I knew that he had lately returned to the 
 Congo along with Mr Deane (now restored to health) 
 for the sole purpose of hunting, and had, indeed, 
 quitted Nshassa for Long Island only two days be- 
 fore. As we turned towards the shore, a second tent 
 came into view, from which emerged Mr Deane, 
 shouting to us an invitation to come ashore. We 
 did so, and found that they had that morning shot 
 two antelopes and a buffalo. Long Island abounds 
 in the latter, which is perhaps the most dangerous 
 animal to the hunter to be met with on the Congo, 
 as he is extremely hard to kill, unless hit in a vital 
 part, and very fierce when wounded — charging down 
 on his enemy, and goring him with his sharp and 
 powerful horns, should he not be quick enough in 
 getting out of the way. The antelopes were very 
 fine animals, of a dark-grey colour, with faint white 
 stripes down the flanks, wdth very graceful heads 
 and horns. I had several times seen both dark- 
 grey and red antelojDes marked with white in this 
 way, and at first thought them diff'erent species, 
 but afterwards discovered that one was the male 
 and the other the female. I have also bought from 
 the natives at Mpeza several light-grey skins and 
 one or two small pairs of horns, which, I believe, 
 belong to a very pretty little gazelle ; but I have 
 never seen this animal, cither dead or alive, though, 
 
 N
 
 194 THE EMIN RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 judging from the number of skins the Langa-Langa 
 offer for sale, it must be plentiful in their country. 
 Having been regaled by Mr Deane — in the al)- 
 sence of Captain Bayley, who was out hunting — 
 with antelope-steaks, and presented with a hind- 
 quarter of the same animal, we started again and 
 camped for the night at the upper end of the Pool. 
 It was a fine, clear, moonlight night, and the view 
 across to Dover Cliffs was like a scene from fairy- 
 land. 
 
 Next morning we started early, and had a fine 
 long day's run up to Dualla Island. We observed 
 several flocks of guinea-fowl on shore ; the bronze 
 ibis, with its long beak and splendid plumage, was 
 occasionally seen flying about in twos and threes, 
 and the spur-winged plover wheeled round and 
 round over the sand-banks ; while from the bush 
 came the soft cry of the wood-pigeon. Everything 
 this run seemed to be in our favour. We found 
 plenty of fuel every night, and had no head-winds 
 or storms to delay us. 
 
 On November 3d we reached Lukolela, and 
 camped some three miles below the place where 
 the new Baptist INIission Station was slowly but 
 surely approaching completion. Between our camp 
 and this station lay two or three villages, and 
 the chief of one of these was at this time on 
 very bad terms with the missionaries, because 
 they had decided against him in some dispute with
 
 A TRIUMPHAL MARCH. 195 
 
 his neighbours, which had been referred to the 
 mundele. Being unaware of this, and in haste to 
 reach Bangala, I decided to w^alk up to the Mission 
 that night with the letters, and so avoid the delay 
 of stopping there by daylight. As soon as I had 
 finished dinner, I gave my boy my Winchester rifle 
 to carry, took the mail and my revolver, lit a bull's- 
 eye lantern, and started. We passed through the 
 first village all right, escorted by a crowd of curious 
 natives, who left us when we came to the belt of 
 dense forest which divides their town from the next. 
 Walking in front of my boy, and carrying the lan- 
 tern waist-high, I plunged down the dense gloom 
 of the forest-path, stumbling along over roots and 
 stones. At leno;th we reached the cleared ground 
 
 O CD 
 
 round the second village, and I was greatly surprised 
 at the noise and commotion our approach seemed 
 to create. As I entered it, men, women, children, 
 goats, and dogs, fled before me as if I had been 
 a pestilence, and I w^alked right through, greatly 
 puzzled as to the cause of this scare. Another belt 
 of forest, and another village, the inhabitants of 
 which fled in the same mysterious manner, and I 
 at last reached the Mission Station, wdiere all was 
 soon explained. The two last villages through 
 which I had passed were the two that had quarrelled, 
 the first of the two being governed by the chief 
 above mentioned, against whom the missionaries 
 had decided the case. As I approached through
 
 196 THE EMIX RELIEF EXPEDITION. 
 
 the intense darkness, holding the lantern in front 
 of me, they had taken the round, glaring eye, which 
 was all they could see (I and my boy being invisible 
 in the darkness behind), for a bad fetish sent by the 
 missionaries to kill them, and had fled. In the same 
 way the second village had taken it to be an evil 
 spirit sent against them by their enemy, the chief 
 of the first ; and I had marched, like a conquering 
 hero, clean through the two hostile towns, without 
 even being aware that anything was wrong. After 
 spending an hour or two with the missionaries, I 
 started on my way back, and, taking care to keep 
 well behind my lantern, once more passed the 
 villages, like an avenging spirit, and reached the 
 steamer about midnight. On the 6th, we stopped 
 an hour or two at Equator to get wood, and con- 
 tinuing our journey, arrived at Bangala before noon 
 on the 9th, having been only a little over thirteen 
 days from Leopoldville — the quickest run yet made.
 
 MR. HERBERT WARD. 
 
 Frotn a photograph, taken at St. Paul de Loanda. 
 By permission oj Mr Piomland Ward.
 
 197 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 IMPROVEMENTS AT BANGALA — STATE CAPTIVES NOT YET LIBERATED 
 — WE START FOR UPOTO — FIREWORKS AU NATUREL — BURNING 
 OF UPOTO — PURCHASE OF SLAVES AT MPEZA — DOWN - RIVER 
 AGAIN — DEATH ON BOARD THE A.I.A. — FUNERAL AT LUKOLELA 
 — SHAGERSTROM's cocktail — THE A.I.A. STRIKES A CROCODILE 
 — THE SON OF MIYONGO — DEATH OF VAN DE VELDE — WARD 
 ARRIVES WITH NEWS FROM THE ARUHWIMI. 
 
 At Bangala the station was fast improving, and a 
 new red-brick house, intended for a mess-room and 
 provision-store, was nearly finished. Owing to the 
 damp climate, wood quickly rots, unless painted or 
 preserved in some other way ; and paint not being 
 procurable in suflicient quantities, Mr Van Kerck- 
 lioven had decided to use as little wood as pos- 
 sible, and therefore made the doors arched, and the 
 windows with a square brick column down the 
 centre, and a double arch at the top in alternate 
 red and white bricks, which gave the building a 
 somewhat ecclesiastical appearance. The front
 
 198 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 door opened right into a large and lofty room, 
 the walls of which, washed with white clay, set 
 off the window-curtains (composed of blue savelist 
 and Paisley shawls, out of the trading stock of the 
 station) to great advantage. This house, besides 
 being strong and durable, was a great improvement 
 in point of appearance on the older clay build- 
 ings ; and when others are completed in the same 
 style, Bangala will be no undesirable residence, 
 except for the great disadvantage of its isolated 
 position. During my absence some of the Ba- 
 Ngala had been on a trading expedition to Upoto, 
 and had fallen out with the natives of Langa- 
 Langa. The affair ended in the Ba-Ngala seizing 
 several of the up-river people, and paddling off 
 home, arriving with their prizes a few days before 
 the A. I. A. came up from Xtamo. Mr Van Kerck- 
 hoven, on hearing of this, immediately bought all 
 the prisoners from their captors ; and a few days 
 later he started, with Mr Dhanis and myself, for 
 Upoto, to try and bring the unreasonable Langa- 
 Langa to their senses. By November 18th we were 
 again abreast of Bokele, to which place our prison- 
 ers belonged ; and as the people of Bokele had to 
 send for those we wanted from Upoto, we made 
 fast to an island, with a 500 yards' channel be- 
 tween us and the village. Towards evening on 
 the 20th, some canoes came down, with the three 
 women belonging to the State ; and having ex-
 
 LUSEXGI TURNS TRADER. 199 
 
 changed some of the prisoners for them, we were 
 beodnninor to think the troublesome business at an 
 end, when one of the women informed us that 
 there were five more still in the hands of the 
 chief of Upoto. Having sent a message to the 
 chief to bring these five, we waited till next 
 morning for an answer, when he sent an insolent 
 demand for five slaves as a ransom for each 
 woman. Mr Van Kerckhoven sent back word that 
 he was going away, and that if the women were 
 not at once given up, on his return he would burn 
 Upoto. On the 2 2d we arrived at Mobeka, at the 
 mouth of the Ngala river. This town now occupies 
 the same site as it did some years ago ; but when I 
 first arrived in the country it w\as situated some 
 fifteen miles up the Ngala. The reason of its 
 removal was a war with the Ba-Ngala, who com- 
 pletely sacked and burned the town, forcing the 
 inhabitants to seek a more distant spot — till Lu- 
 sengi, their chief, became the blood-brother of the 
 mundele at Bangala, and having made peace with 
 his old enemies, returned to the former site, where 
 he is fast growing rich by trading in ivory. On 
 our return to Bangala on the 23d, the A. I. A. was 
 taken out of the water to be scraped and painted ; 
 and on December 2d, the Stanley arrived from 
 Ntamo, bringing the longed-for mails, and also 
 Captain Thys, who had come out on a tour of 
 inspection for the company formed to construct
 
 200 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 the Congo railway, which, for some inscrutable 
 reason, entitles itself Let Compagnie du Congo 
 2)our le Commerce et V Industrie. Mr Hoclister, of 
 the Sanforcl Exploring Expedition, had also come 
 up to found a station, and thus establish the first 
 trading factory among a people who, six or seven 
 years ago, were nothing but river-pirates, levying 
 blackmail on their neio^hbours, and hirinof them- 
 selves out as armed escorts to the trading canoes" 
 going up-river to purchase ivory. The Stanley 
 left us in a few days, and during the next few 
 weeks I was kept so busy with repairs to the 
 whale-boat, that we could not start for Upoto 
 till after the New Year. On the 9th of January 
 1888 we got under way again, this time accom- 
 panied by Mr Hodister and Mr Verhees. As it 
 had been decided to burn Upoto unless the cap- 
 tives were surrendered, we had on board, besides 
 the usual crew of nine men, over forty Ba-Ngala, 
 and towed the whale-boat and three large canoes, 
 so that the little engine was strained to the 
 utmost. 
 
 Two or three days after starting, we moored for 
 the night off a low marshy forest, consisting mostly 
 of rosewood-trees, with groves of palm lining the 
 river-bank. The men having found a large dead 
 rosewood-tree, whose trunk was some two feet six 
 inches in diameter, began cutting it up for fuel, and 
 to obtain light for their work, set fire to the dead
 
 PALMS ON FIKE. 201 
 
 stalks and leaves which always surround the trunk 
 of this species of palm. This is a sight which 
 equals, if it does not surpass, the magnificent set 
 pieces let off" at an exhibition of fireworks at the 
 Crystal Palace. At first the fire smoulders among 
 the short dead stalks round the foot of the trunk, 
 but gradually gaining power, at length rushes up 
 the tree in one huge column of roaring flame, 
 devouring all the dead foliage, and giving an in- 
 describable beauty to the feathery palm -leaves, 
 which stand out distinct and black against the 
 background of flame and smoke. The end of the 
 show is perhaps the most striking of all, when, the 
 dead leaves being consumed, the fire dies down, 
 leaving the bunch of palm -nuts burning away 
 among the blackened fronds. The ball of fire, 
 flaring away on the tree-top, is a weird spectacle 
 seen from the river in a dark niQ-ht — further set off" 
 by the smoke curling up to the stars, the utter 
 blackness of the surrounding forest, and the reflec- 
 tion of the whole in the water. Two or three palms 
 growing close together sometimes blaze up all at 
 once — sometimes one catches fire from another just 
 dying out. Where there are plenty of palms, the 
 Ba-Ngala always contrive to have one Inirning 
 when they have any work to do at night. The fire 
 does not kill the trees, only burning up the dead 
 stalks and leaves, and then dying out. This palm 
 has, properly speaking, no trunk — the huge leaves
 
 202 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 rise right from the ground to a height of thirty or 
 forty feet. 
 
 On January 16th we once more steamed round 
 Upoto Point, and found the village up in arms to 
 receive us. Samba and the Ba-Ngala (who had been 
 relegated to the canoes) had paddled ahead of us, as 
 we steamed slowly past the line of villages below 
 Upoto, and on finding the village in regular fight- 
 ing order, had drawn ofi" and begun a raid among 
 the islands in genuine Ba-Ngala style, captur- 
 ing a number of women and children hidden there, 
 and drinking all the palm-wine they could find. 
 When we arrived aljreast of the chief's house, Mr 
 Van Kerckhoven demanded the surrender of the 
 captives ; to which the chief, having first executed 
 a pas seul, replied that, if we wanted the women, 
 we must come and fetch them, and then resumed 
 his war - dance — while the grou^) of hideously 
 painted and befeathered warriors behind him joined 
 in, like a chorus, waving their shields and spears 
 about, as they twisted their bodies into all sorts 
 of queer contortions. Some were smeared over 
 from head to foot with grey clay, others were bright 
 red with camwood powder ; others, again, j)ainted 
 over with red, white, and 37'ellow streaks. In the 
 midst of this performance, the order was given to 
 our men to fire, and the chief ended his perform- 
 ance with a leap into the air, as a rifle-bullet " let 
 daylight " through him. A few volleys cleared the
 
 SAVAGE WARFARE. 203 
 
 village, and then we moved off to await the return 
 of the Ba-Ngala, as we were too weak to burn the 
 place without them. They appeared shortly after, 
 having captured some thirty -five prisoners and 
 several canoes. The prisoners were mostly women 
 and children, the few men among them being 
 either old or severely wounded. It is seldom that 
 warriors of this tribe allow themselves to be taken 
 alive. I saw a Ba-Ngala in one of the canoes, on 
 coming alongside the A.I.A., stoop down and lift 
 u^D a head dripping with blood, which he had just 
 cut off. The sight nearly made me sick, and of 
 course I instantly made him throw it into the 
 river, where it sank like a lump of lead. Another 
 had a small child's hand which he proudly exhi- 
 bited, as if he had achieved a great feat in cutting it 
 off. What I saw of the Ba-Nsala on this occasion 
 completely disgusted me with the notion of using 
 such savage troops as these, even against savages 
 like themselves. They carefully avoided the village 
 where the Langa - Langa warriors were awaiting 
 them, and went off to the islands where the old 
 men, women, and children were hidden. These 
 they murdered or captured wholesale ; and it was 
 only after the village had been cleared by a fusil- 
 ade from the steamer, that they would land and 
 burn it. It is the custom of the Ba-Ngala and 
 other warlike tribes of the Upper Congo to cut off 
 and carry home the heads of their enemies slain in
 
 204 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 battle ; and I have, in several villages, seen a large 
 tree in front of the chiefs hut on whose branches 
 are impaled numerous human skulls. In one vil- 
 lage, not only was the tree decorated with some 
 forty of these ghastly trophies, but a heap of them 
 was piled round the trunk ; and round this, at a 
 radius of about thirty feet, was a circular seat 
 formed of clay, kept in its place by pieces of old 
 canoes, and adorned here and there with a o-rinninQ; 
 skull. Several more were lying about, roughly 
 shaped into drinking-cups ; for this was the place 
 where the \dllage patriarchs held their evening 
 symposium, drinking their malafu, like King 
 Alboin, the Lombard, out of the skulls of their 
 enemies. 
 
 As the Ba-Xgala — having come across liberal 
 quantities of palm- wine — were all more or less 
 drunk, there was some difficulty in making them 
 hand over their prisoners ; but when these were at 
 last all secured on board the A.I.A., we steamed in 
 close to the village, where the natives were await- 
 ing us with flint-lock muskets and spears, while 
 several war-canoes were visible in a creek about 
 half a mile off". Havino: cleared the village with a 
 volley or two from our rifles, and dispersed the 
 canoes in the same way, we took the steamer in as 
 close as the rocks would allow us ; and then the 
 Ba-Ngala, having landed in the canoes, were soon 
 scooting about, cutting down banana-trees, and ap-
 
 UPOTO IN FLAMES. 205 
 
 plying firebrands to the palm-leaf tliatcli of tlie 
 huts, which, being dry as tinder, were soon in a 
 blaze. It was a really grand sight, when the 
 flames, with a dull roar, spread up the hillside, 
 lapping round and blackening the green banana- 
 leaves, till it had dried them up, when they shared 
 the fate of the huts. The smoke and flames, 
 rushing in one dense cloud up the hill, made the 
 trees behind, when they were visible at all, look 
 black as ink ; and the bright sunshine pouring- 
 down from above, gave a very strange eff'ect to the 
 scene. Presently a spreading tree in the centre of 
 the village — under which was the usual heap of 
 skulls — was enveloped in flames ; and the heat, 
 which was by this time intense, as the whole hill- 
 side was now one mass of fire, soon shrivelled up 
 the foliage, and left the tree as bare as if it had 
 been dead. Above the roar of the flames we heard 
 the bang of the Langa-Langa muskets — they could 
 not have taken good aim, as they hit no one — and 
 the sharper crack of the rifles wielded by the Ba- 
 Ngala, whose black forms were seen rushing about 
 in the fierce heat like so many salamanders. How 
 they endured it I am at loss to imagine, for the 
 heat was so intense where the A. LA. lay — nearly 
 100 yards off" shore to windward — that I was several 
 times glad to turn away my face. In half an hour 
 all was over, nothino- beino; left on the blackened 
 hillside but smouldering posts and heaps of ashes ;
 
 206 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 and we steamed away for Bangala — stopjjing a few 
 minutes at Bokele to tell the people that we would 
 restore the thirty-five prisoners to Upoto when the 
 State captives were given up. AVe had, besides the 
 whale-boat, five large canoes in tow, and in all 130 
 people on board, including Europeans, Ba-Ngala, 
 prisoners, our own crew, and some thirty-five slaves, 
 whose liberty had been j)urchased by Mr Van Kerck- 
 hoven from the natives of ]\Ipeza. ]\Iost of them 
 were boys and girls between the ages of ten and 
 fifteen, with a few older men and women. 
 
 Knowing how the people of Mpeza treat their 
 slaves, one would be tempted to buy as many as 
 possible ; and at first I thought the measure a very 
 good one, but further reflection convinced me that, 
 as the demand creates the suj^ply, the natives would 
 continue to procure slaves by raids on other tribes, 
 and sell them to the State, as long as the latter was 
 willing to buy them — so that, though the condition 
 of those bought would be considerably improved, 
 their place would soon be supplied by others, and 
 perhaps dozens of men killed in some raid under- 
 taken for the sole purpose of capturing a few boys 
 and girls. 
 
 As the country was very much disturbed, Mr 
 Hodister, who had come up with us to see what 
 sort of place it was for trade, did not get much 
 ivory. The people of Upoto and the neighbouring 
 villages, however, must have plenty, as all the
 
 DOWN-EIVER AGAIN. 207 
 
 traders between Bangala and Irebu go up there 
 to purchase the ivory, which they sell to the Ba- 
 yanzi of Bolobo, who, in their turn, pass it on to 
 the Pool. With the crowd we had on board, it was 
 a great relief to arrive at Bangala on the 19th of 
 January, but there was no rest to be had just yet. 
 Thirty Zanzibaris had finished their three years' 
 term of service, and were to be sent down to Leo- 
 pold ville ; and two Belgians, who had been ill, had 
 grown so much worse during my absence, that, as 
 we had no medical officer at the station, the chief 
 decided to send them down too. This time the 
 whale-boat was required for use at Bangala, and 
 a canoe towed alongside was our only additional 
 accommodation, I leave my readers to imagine 
 the discomfort of this run, especially for the two 
 sick men, whose pain, in spite of all we could do 
 for them, must have been considerably increased 
 by the throbbing and shaking of the little steam- 
 er, which, owing to her heavy-laden condition, was 
 more violent than usual. Next day we arrived 
 at Equator, where Mr Banks, of the Livingstone 
 Inland Mission, was kind enough to prescribe for 
 our invalids, who, by his timely assistance, were 
 enabled to pass a quiet night on shore in the 
 Sanford Company's station. Next morning, one 
 of them, Avho was down with dysentery, and 
 whose sufierings had been so much intensified by 
 the shaking of the steamer that we thought he
 
 208 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 could never reach Equator alive, seemed to have 
 rallied so far that we again hoped to bring him 
 safely to Leopoldville ; all the more so, as he told 
 us that the agonising pain of the day before had 
 nearly ceased. We started as early as possible in 
 order to reach the Baptist Mission Station at Luko- 
 lela before night ; but our patient soon began to 
 sink rapidly, and at 10 a.m. Mr Dhanis came to 
 me to ask if I could not go any faster, as he did 
 not think the sick man could live many hours. 
 But the little A. I. A. was doing all she knew ; and 
 there was nothing for it but to await the end, 
 which came a little after mid-day, when, slowly 
 and silently, death entered the boat, and we could 
 do no more. The Zanzibaris, who had been attend- 
 ing on him since we left Bangala, washed the 
 corpse, and covering it with blankets, laid it out 
 on a kind of hurdle astern — as we had decided to 
 try and reach Lukolela sooner than dig a name- 
 less grave in the forest. Owing to a tremendous 
 tornado, we had to stop some three hours, and 
 therefore camped on a sand-bank that night, and 
 did not reach Lukolela tiU next day. ]\Ir Richards ^ 
 and Mr Darby, of the Baptist Mission, on learning 
 the state of the case, rendered us every assistance 
 in their power — even setting their carpenters to 
 make a coffin, while our men dug a grave at the 
 top of a high bank, behind the old State station, 
 
 ^ Since dead, August 1888.
 
 ^-^ 
 
 Ti: A 
 
 
 
 
 ?/ 
 f^"; 
 
 
 , ; :. ^J'f ^^*rvr5?<?^*^' ' • ^ .f f 

 
 OVER SAND-REEFS. 209 
 
 overlooking the river. One grave already marked 
 the spot — being that of Mr Keys, a State official, 
 who had been killed by a buffalo three years before. 
 And there, in the silence of the deep jungle — dis- 
 turbed only by a prowling bush-cat or jackal, or 
 by the chattering of the monkeys and screaming 
 of the parrots in the lofty trees overhead — we raised 
 a cairn of stones to mark where his mortal remains 
 had been laid to rest. Having still another sick 
 man to consider, we left the Mission the same 
 evening, and having taken in fuel at the lower 
 end of the village, where there was plenty of dry 
 wood, started off once more. The river was very 
 low, and we had much trouble from sand-banks, — 
 especially at Two Palm Point, a few miles above 
 Bolobo — so called from two tall Hyphwne palms 
 growing close together, which form a well-known 
 landmark. Having vainly tried to find a channel 
 among the sand-banks at the end of this point, 
 where there were barely three feet of water, we let 
 out a long chain, and all the Zanzibaris, jumping 
 overboard, seized it and dragged the A. I. A. bod- 
 ily over — probably at the expense of the paint 
 on her keel. A tame elephant would have been 
 very useful under the circumstances. 
 
 We reached Leopoldville on the 30th of Jan- 
 uary, without any further incident, except a two 
 hours' halt in the hospitable tents of the two Nim- 
 rods of the Congo, Messrs Deane and Bayley, whom 
 

 
 210 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 we found encamped in a picturesque situation op- 
 posite Pururu Island. From them we heard that 
 Baron Rothkirch, who had for some time been ill 
 with abscess of the liver, had died at Nshassa on 
 December 6th, 1887. The invalid having been 
 handed over to the doctor, and the A. LA. made 
 fast alongside the Stanley, I was free to discuss 
 the news and a cocktail with the captain and 
 engineers of the latter. The cocktail, however, 
 turned out to be a snare and a delusion ; for Cap- 
 tain Shagerstrom, having no spice, surreptitiously 
 introduced into the mixture a few grains of quinine, 
 with the result that we all vowed never to intrust 
 that perfidious Scandinavian with the compound- 
 ing of another, and that notwithstanding his assur- 
 ances that he had done it to keep off the fever. 
 
 I found that part of the expedition for Stanley- 
 Falls was still at Leopoldville, consisting of some 
 officers sent up by the State to assist Tippoo Tip, 
 who had come round from Zanzibar with Stanley 
 and the Emin Pasha Expedition, and gone straight 
 on to his post as governor at the Falls, where he 
 had now been some six months. Captain Van de 
 Yelde, in charge of the expedition, was down with 
 fever ; and some of his loads not having arrived 
 from Matadi, the Stanley was awaiting their ar- 
 rival and the chiefs recovery, to take them all up 
 to Kinsi Katini. 
 
 We left again, with stores for Bangala, on Feb-
 
 A SURPRISED CROCODILE. 211 
 
 ruary 3d. Passing Pururu Island three days later, 
 we found Messrs Deane and Bayley still in the same 
 camp, and made fast there for the night. The 
 Florida coming np before dark, we all dined to- 
 gether " under the twinkling starlight," which was 
 almost rivalled in brilliancy by the fire-flies among 
 the grass at our feet. 
 
 Two or three days after this we suddenly brought 
 up on a sand-bank, with only three feet of water. 
 The engines were at once stopped, but the steamer's 
 bow was embedded in the sand, which seemed to 
 heave up and down under us, and the water was 
 strangely disturbed. I was looking for the cause 
 of this unusual commotion (which I should have 
 set down as being caused by our running into a 
 hi23po, had the river been deeper at that spot, but 
 there was not enough water to cover one), when I 
 saw an enormous crocodile — loriger, I am certain, 
 than the A. I. A., and therefore over forty feet — 
 rush across the bank and tumble into the deep 
 water beyond. I never before saw a large crocodile 
 move so quickly, and I had no time to get a shot 
 at him. He must have heard us coming, and been 
 trying to make for the deep water on our side of 
 the Ijank, when we ran into him and jammed him 
 into the sand. We struck him while movino- at 
 the rate of four miles an hour, but during the short 
 time he was in view, I could not see that he bore 
 any marks of the collision.
 
 212 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 On the evening of the 12th we camped at Liiko- 
 lela, and on the 14th arrived opposite Usindi, 
 where we landed the son of Miyongo, who had come 
 up from Nshassa with us, having been for some 
 time previously employed by the Sanford Explor- 
 ing Expedition. His father, Miyongo, one of the 
 chiefs of Usindi, was the man rescued by Stanley 
 from the wreck of his canoe below Lukolela, and 
 restored to his village. Next morning, before we 
 left, he came on board with a present of a sheep, 
 eggs, and fowls, and then demanded about twenty 
 times their value in cloth and other goods as a 
 return present — such is the nature of these " blame- 
 less Ethiopians." Having at length, if not satisfied, 
 at least convinced him that we were not to be bled 
 any further, he took to his canoe, and with many 
 handshakings allowed us to pursue our way. 
 
 We found that during our absence the people of 
 Upoto had, through the medium of some other 
 tribes, made overtures of peace ; so we hoped that, 
 on the arrival of the Stanley, the expedition would 
 not only establish the State's authority at the Falls, 
 but also settle this troublesome business of ours, 
 which had now been going on for nearly eighteen 
 months. Owing to Captain Van de Velde's death, 
 however, the Stanley did not arrive at Bangala till 
 the beginning of April — and then without the ex- 
 pedition, which remained at Leopoldville waiting 
 for Van de Velde's successor. It was expected
 
 WARD BRINGS NEWS. 213 
 
 that, by the time the Stanley returned to Leo- 
 j)oldville, all would be in readiness, and the long- 
 delayed expedition to Stanley Falls would at last 
 get under way. But even should there be no 
 more delays, Tippoo Tip would, by the time it ar- 
 rived at Stanley Falls, have been there nearly a year, 
 during which time not a word of communication 
 has passed between the Falls and Ntamo, so that 
 the state of affairs at the former place was at this 
 time utterly unknown to the outside world. 
 
 On the evening of Sunday, April 8th, 1888, the 
 EurojDeans at Bangala Station were seated at 
 dinner, when one of the Houssas doing sentry by 
 the river came in and reported that he had heard 
 some people in canoes talking Kiswahili ; but, as it 
 was too dark to see anything, he could not tell 
 whether there was one canoe or fifty. As no news 
 had come from Stanley Falls for nearly a year, and 
 the force which was to have been sent up to Tippoo 
 Tip had been delayed by various circumstances, we 
 conjectured that the latter had despatched the 
 canoes to make inquiries about it. Following the 
 chief of the station down to the beach, 1 saw, loom- 
 ing through the darkness, two huge canoes lashed 
 together, slowly approaching the bank. The first 
 man to step ashore was Mr Herbert AVard, who 
 had passed up-river a year ago in the Stanleij with 
 the last detachment of the Emin Pasha Relief Ex- 
 pedition, and whom I then supposed to be either
 
 214 NEWS FROM YAMBUYA. 
 
 at AVadelai or on his way thence to the east coast. 
 In answer to my hurried inquiries, I learned that 
 no news had been received from Stanley, except 
 the vague reports of deserters from his caravan ; 
 that Major Barttelot and his company were still 
 at the camp on the Aruhwimi Rapids, where 
 Stanley had left them, and where they were 
 living principally on manioc and beans ; and that 
 Tippoo Tip, after making various excuses for the 
 non-arrival of the promised 600 carriers, had gone 
 to Kassongo in November 1887. As he had not 
 returned by the following January, Major Barttelot 
 had sent Mr Jameson to hurry his movements, and 
 the latter was still absent when Mr Ward left the 
 Aruhwimi. 
 
 The Stanley had left Bangala on the morning of 
 the 8th, and Mr Ward started early on the follow- 
 ing morning, in order if possible to overtake her at 
 Equator, where she was to stop and take in w^ood. 
 He had come from the Arab settlement at the 
 mouth of the Lomami (with thirty-five Zanzibaris, 
 in two canoes lashed together) in five and a half 
 days ; and pursuing his journey in a smaller canoe, 
 manned by Samba and twenty Ba-Ngala, reached 
 Equator in less than twenty-two hours, arriving 
 an hour or two before the departure of the Stanley. 
 He thus performed the entire journey between the 
 Lomami and Equator (a distance of over 500 miles) 
 in six and a half days. The journey could not have
 
 RAPID TRAVELLING. 215 
 
 been made in a shorter time by any of the steamers 
 at that time on the Upper Congo, which were forced 
 to stop every night to cut wood ; whereas Mr Ward 
 took no rest, but travelled day and night, with the 
 exception of a stay of less than ten hours at Ban- 
 gala — so that the tidings which had left the Aruh- 
 wimi on April 2d were known in England by the 
 1st of May.
 
 216 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 MAJOR BAETTELOT's CAMP. 
 
 START FOR YAMBUYA — A ROYAL STOWAWAY — WAR -DRUMS — THE 
 BASOKO — SCENERY OF THE ARUHWIMI — DEPREDATIONS OF THE 
 ARABS — FINE TIMBER — DESCRIPTION OF MAJOR BARTTELOT's 
 CAMP — SALIM BIN MAHOMED — MANYEMAS — SALIM SENDS HIS 
 IVORY TO THE FALLS — NATIVES LIVING IN CANOES — BLACK 
 " MASHERS " — ARABS AT THE LOMAMI — LARGE CANOES — RASCHID's 
 HOUSE — HIS ACCOUNT OF THE LOSS OP STANLEY FALLS STATION 
 — YAPORO once more — YANGAMBI. 
 
 The thirty-five Zanzibaris mentioned in the last 
 chapter as having come down with Ward, remained 
 for the present at Bangala — the Commissaire de 
 District promising to take them back in the 
 A. I. A. Owing to a trij) I had to take to Equator 
 on business connected with the station, and the 
 preparations necessary for the run to Stanley Falls, 
 our departure was delayed till April 24th, when 
 the A. I. A. left Bangala, with Mr Van Kerckhoven 
 and myself, the thirty-five Zanzibaris, and her own 
 crew of fifteen men, on board. The poor little 
 steamer, having a whale-boat lashed on one side of
 
 MAJOR E. M. BARTTELOT. 
 
 h'rom a photograph, by kind permission of Sir Walter B. Barttelot, M.I'
 
 MABLASIA OF MUTEMBO. 217 
 
 her, and a large canoe on the other, and carrying 
 some fifty loads (50 to 65 lb. each) of stores, had hard 
 work to make headway against the current, which, 
 as the river was at the height of its spring rise, 
 was very strong. That evening we stopped at a 
 village called Mutembo, ruled over by a chief 
 named Mablasia, who was said to be one of those 
 who turned out their war-canoes on Stanley, when 
 the latter descended the river in 1879. This chief 
 now came on l^oard with a present of a goat and 
 some fowls, and hearing where we were going, 
 asked permission to accompany us. As we were 
 already pretty crowded, this was refused ; and I 
 conducted him and his retinue ashore — of course 
 with a handsome present to console him for his 
 disappointment. The moon being full, and the 
 night clear, we only stopped long enough to get 
 a fair supply of firewood, and left about 10 p.m., 
 so as to gain a little time by a night run. As 
 soon as we had got under way, all the men not 
 engaged in the work of the steamer began to stow 
 themselves away in the whale-boat, the canoe, and 
 the forward section of the steamer, to sleep as 
 best they could. Only four or five were allowed 
 to remain on board, as the forward part of the 
 steamer was full of firewood (the after part, where 
 the loads were stored, beinsf reserved for the 
 Europeans), and it was necessary to keep a clear 
 view for the man at the wheel. About six more
 
 218 MAJOR BARTTELOT's CAMP. 
 
 went into the canoe ; and this — allowing for those 
 on duty — left about thirty, who proceeded to pack 
 themselves into the whale-boat. After witnessing 
 the amount of suffocation an African native will 
 endure before giving up the ghost, I can under- 
 stand how it was that the old slaving captains con- 
 trived to get to America without losing their whole 
 cargo every voyage. Next morning, at daylight, 
 while watching a huge heap of blankets and mats 
 in the whale-boat gradually resolve itself into 
 human arms and legs, I was greatly astonished by 
 seeing Mablasia extricate himself from the bottom 
 of the pile, and go up to Mr Van Kerckhoven, 
 calmly demanding a gun, as he had left his village 
 without his spear. It turned out that, on our re- 
 fusal to take him on board, he and two of his men, 
 projSting by the confusion of our night start, had 
 stowed themselves away. As it is the native cus- 
 tom to reckon every man as a foe who enters 
 another's house with a weapon in his hand, he had 
 left all his arms l^ehind to prove that his intentions 
 were friendly, and now asked for a gun to defend 
 himself, in case we were attacked by tribes up the 
 river. It says a great deal for the prestige of the 
 Europeans on the Congo that a native chief like 
 Mablasia should trust himself, unarmed, and with 
 only two followers, on board a steamer away from 
 his home. Had the A. I. A. been a native trading- 
 canoe, the custom of the country would have
 
 A MODEL NEGRO. 219 
 
 sanctioned lier owners' seizing him as a slave, and 
 demanding an enormous ransom for his release. 
 Natives, as a rule, are very much afraid of being 
 seized in this way by Europeans, and will never 
 apjDroach a steamer unless in sufficient numbers 
 to resist an attack. As we were now" some thirty 
 miles from his village, Mr Van Kerckhoven decided 
 to allow him to come with us. I did not at first 
 relish the notion of having him on board, as my 
 previous experience of chiefs under similar circum- 
 stances was anything but pleasant, for they no 
 sooner set foot on deck than they began to order 
 every one and everything about, and could not be 
 persuaded that the steamer did not belong to them. 
 However, during the three months he was with us, 
 Mablasia never gave any trouble, and was alto- 
 gether the best-behaved native chief it has ever 
 been my lot to meet. 
 
 Beyond two or three brushes with warlike 
 natives, nothing worth mentioning occurred dur- 
 ing the next few days. As we approached the 
 country of the Basoko, we occasionally heard their 
 huge war-drums, which carried my thoughts back 
 over the intervening two years, to the time when 
 Captain Coquilhat and I were on our way through 
 this region to Stanley Falls, and the war-drums 
 boomed in our ears day and night. Once more 
 I seemed to hear the roar of the cataract of Kinsi 
 Katini and the crack of the Arab rifles, and
 
 220 MAJOR BARTTELOT'S CAMP. 
 
 wondered what the phace woukl be like now. 
 Once more was the little A.I. A. on her way to 
 relieve a distant putpost of white men, but this 
 time under happier circumstances ; and the mem- 
 ory of those other days now seemed like a bad 
 dream of lonoj sl^o. 
 
 On ]\ray 6th we reached the mouth of the 
 Aruhwimi, and turned up that stream, in order to 
 reach Yambuya, where Major Barttelot was en- 
 camj^ed. Just inside the mouth of this river are 
 two larg-e native towns : but the crowds who lined 
 the banks, ferociously brandishing spears and 
 knives, deterred us from trying to enter into 
 friendly relations there. These people (called by 
 Stanley Basoko) are great fighters, and their enor- 
 mous spears, knives, and other weapons are not 
 only more substantial in make than those of other 
 tribes, but the workmanship gives evidence of 
 superior artistic ability ; and they are as brightly 
 j^olished as Shefiield cutlery. A curious weapon 
 manufactured by them is a thro wing-knife with 
 several blades, which, owing to an almost imper- 
 cejDtible twist in the metal, revolves in the air, 
 when thrown by a practised hand, with the action 
 of a boomerano^. The sioht of these crowds, danc- 
 ing along the banks, and flashing the polished 
 surfaces of their weapons in the sunlight, reminded 
 me of 'King Solomon's Mines'; and had Rider 
 Haggard ever been on the Congo, I should certainly
 
 THE ARUHWIMI. 221 
 
 liave thoiTolit he was clescribino- the Basoko. I am 
 sorry to say that the resemblance ceases when one 
 comes to look for the Roman or Spartan discipline 
 depicted by that writer ; but this, I suppose, is in 
 some desfree to be found amono- the Zulus and other 
 South African tribes, or in such a kingdom as that 
 of Uganda under Mtesa, as described by Speke and 
 Grant. 
 
 The scenery of the Aruhwimi is finer than that 
 of any of the tributaries of the Congo I have seen. 
 As we steamed up it, the banks gradually increased 
 in height, and the red and yellow sandstone, and 
 patches of white quartz sand showing here and 
 there between the foliage which covered the steep 
 l)lufts, gave a variety to the prospect which is 
 wanting to the country between this and Bangala. 
 This river has a very tortuous course, and in 
 several places makes huge bends, with high bluffs 
 on the outer or concave bank, and a lower forest- 
 covered bank on the other side. The numerous 
 islands constitute another beautiful feature. They 
 are mostly long and narrow, with a grove of Rapliia 
 vinifera palms, usually sheltering a small native 
 settlement, at each end — the centre being thickly 
 covered with forest, above which rise, here and 
 there, the graceful crowns of the same palm, which 
 has a very slender stem, and grows to a greater 
 height than the oil-palm (Elais guineensis). On 
 the top of the high jjanks — some 40 or 50 feet
 
 222 MAJOR barttelot's ca:mp. 
 
 above the river — I noticed large clearings with 
 young banana-plants growing plentifully all about, 
 which led me to conclude that villages had once 
 stood there. A little higher up we came to the 
 site of a village recently destroyed by fire, and 
 learnt that marauding parties of Manyemas, sent 
 out by the Arabs, had been down the river. 
 
 Next day, approaching the bend of the river, 
 wdiere we expected to find the town of Yambumba 
 — described by Stanley as truly metropolitan — 
 I noticed that the bluff" where he saw it in 1883 
 was completely have of huts, only a few banana- 
 plants remaining. The Arabs had burned the 
 whole place, and the natives had removed to the 
 low bank opposite, where they were dragging out 
 a wretched existence, having for houses only a 
 sort of palm-leaf awning, supported on four sticks ; 
 while a detachment of Manyemas, left by the Arabs 
 to keep them in subjection, kept them also in con- 
 stant fear of their lives. After leaving this place, 
 we found that the river had a straighter course, 
 though fairly choked with sand-banks, which gave 
 us much trouble. It was not long before we 
 passed the last island, and arrived, about 5 p.m., 
 at a settlement of Manyemas, with two or three 
 Arabs living among them. 
 
 These Arabs are called by the natives " Tamba- 
 Tamba " — a word whose meaning I have been un- 
 able to ascertain ; while a white man is called
 
 " TAMBA-TAMBA " AND " TOOC-A-TOOC-A." 223 
 
 " Tooc-a-Tooc-a," in imitation of the noise made by 
 the waste steam escaping up the funnels of the 
 steam-launches. 
 
 As Tippoo Tip had been made governor of Stanley 
 Falls, we stopped about half an hour with these 
 Arabs, and heard from them that Major Barttelot 
 and his companions were all right, and that we 
 should reach the camp at noon the next day. 
 Steaming on for about an hour, we then made our 
 camp — as fuel was running short — opposite a bank 
 formed by the base of a line of hills which sloped 
 down nearly to the water's edge, covered with 
 magnificent trees. It was not the height or foliage 
 of these trees which struck me, so much as their 
 beautifully straight and even trunks — nearly every 
 one running up without a branch to a height of 
 forty or fifty feet, with a diameter of from three to 
 four. The taper was so slight, that the diameter 
 just below the branches was nearly the same as 
 that near the ground; and their smoothness and 
 regularity reminded one of the stately temple-col- 
 umns of Luxor or Karnak. 
 
 Having made the steamer fast, and wishing to 
 refresh myself with a bath before dinner, I un- 
 dressed, and plunged into the Aruhwimi, but soon 
 wished myself out again, for the water seemed to 
 me as cold as ice. The temperature of the Congo 
 averages about 80° F., and I had never bathed in 
 any other water for over two years. I had unfor-
 
 224 MAJOR BARTTELOt's CAMP. 
 
 tunately no thermometer with me, and so am unable 
 to give the exact temperature of the Aruhwimi, but 
 shoukl put it, roughly speaking, as low as 50 F. 
 
 Next morning (May 8th), at about 9 a.m., coming 
 in sight of what looked like a brown patch among 
 the bush, on the top of a height four or five miles 
 away, we were informed by some of the Zanzibaris 
 that it was Major Barttelot's camp ; and, a few 
 minutes later, the sight of the rapids beyond it 
 convinced us that we had reached our goal. As we 
 approached, the brown patch resolved itself into 
 a strong palisade on the top of a nearly perpen- 
 dicular bluff some fifty feet high. A few natives, 
 hugging the bank in little dug-outs, were the only 
 living beings visible, and I could see no means of 
 scaling the cliff, unless we went up monkey-fashion. 
 We were now within 300 yards, and coidd make 
 out a hut or two behind the palisade ; so I seized 
 the steam-whistle, and gave a long blast, which had 
 the effect of bringing out a crowd of dark figures 
 through some invisible opening, and presently two 
 Europeans were discerned coming down a zigzag 
 path to the water's edge. These proved to be 
 Major Barttelot and Mr Bonny, both of whom 
 appeared in very good health, considering the food 
 they had been living on for the last few months. 
 Not seeing Mr Trouj), I concluded that he was still 
 at Stanley Falls, whither Mr Ward had told me he 
 was gone. Lieutenant Van Kerckhoven having
 
 TROUP ILL. 225 
 
 landed, walked up to the camp with the Major, 
 while I remained behind to see that everything 
 was right. When, some half -hour later, 1 had 
 climbed the hill and found my way into the camp, 
 I saw the Major just inside the door of one of the 
 huts ; and going in, found Mr Troup lying on a 
 camp-bed, looking as if he had not a week to live. 
 In walking from Yangambi, on his return from 
 Stanley Falls, he had somehow strained his leg, 
 and a large tumour had formed, which had not 
 only lamed him, but affected his health to a seri- 
 ous extent. 
 
 As Stanley's expedition has attracted a great 
 deal of attention in Europe, I will, before proceed- 
 ing with this account, describe the place where five 
 British heroes had, for nearly a year, defied all the 
 dangers of African life. The fort, or stronghold, 
 containing all the stores, as well as the huts of the 
 Europeans, was an enclosure some sixty paces (say 
 twenty-five to thirty yards) square, enclosed by a 
 strong palisade of sticks, from two to three inches 
 in diameter, and twelve to fifteen feet in length. 
 These were planted as close together as possible, 
 just leaving room to insert the muzzle of a gun 
 between them. On the side facing the river, the 
 palisade was planted on the very edge of an almost 
 vertical descent of fifty feet. This side, being 
 perfectly unassailable by natives or Arabs, needed 
 no further defence ; but, on the other three sides, a 
 
 p
 
 226 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 stage was erected about six feet from the ground, 
 so that two rows of men could Lring their guns into 
 use at the same time, the sticks being high enough 
 to afford cover for the upper row. Against natives, 
 who fight with spears and arrows, this stage would 
 have been very useful ; but in an engagement with 
 the Arabs, who have rifles and double-barrelled 
 shot-guns (they load the latter with heavy iron 
 slugs, some of them half an inch in diameter), the 
 men on it would have been too much exposed. To 
 provide against this emergency, an embankment, 
 about five feet high, had been thrown up against 
 the outside of the palisade — composed of the clay 
 taken from a trench which surrounded the whole, 
 and had been filled with water, though this was 
 drained off when I saw it. There is no regular 
 rainy season in this part of Africa ; but heavy 
 showers fall at uncertain intervals — usually every 
 few days — which not only soon filled the trench, 
 but would have enabled the garrison to obtain 
 water in plenty, had they been cut off from the 
 river. On the land side of the enclosure — which 
 was also that nearest to the Arab camp, were two 
 semicircular redoubts, from which the defenders 
 could have opened a flank fire at any party attempt- 
 ing to approach the trench. Inside the enclosure 
 were five huts of sticks, grass, and planks — the 
 latter obtained by splitting up old canoes. Three 
 of these, which served as the habitations of three
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DC ^
 
 YAMBUYA CAMP. 227 
 
 of the Europeans, were half filled up with stores ; 
 the fourth was used as a mess-room, and also con- 
 tained the donkeys' saddles, and various miscel- 
 lanea, such as spades, hoes, &c. These four were 
 much of a size ; the fifth, not being required to 
 hold stores, was only about half as large, and was 
 occupied by Mr Troup. Besides these there was 
 a galley, and four small huts (each about five feet 
 square) for the table-boys. 
 
 The two entrances to this enclosure were about 
 three feet wide, and defended by a door formed 
 of planks made from the thick bottoms of large 
 canoes. These doors were hinged at the top, 
 and, during the day, kept open by having their 
 lower ends supported on stout poles : their weight 
 was such as to require four or five men to raise 
 them. They w^ere closed every night, and two men 
 set to guard them. The trench was crossed by 
 means of some light planks, which could have been 
 pulled up in less than half a minute. 
 
 The south side of the enclosure was defended 
 only by a palisade, — being covered by the men's 
 camp, a second enclosure, longer than the first, 
 round which the palisade and trench were continued. 
 This outer enclosure contained the numerous small 
 grass huts occupied by the men ; and its southern 
 end was just in a line with the foot of tlie lowest 
 rapid in the river. Among the huts I noticed four 
 with conical roofs, which were all that remained of
 
 228 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 the village burnt by the Arabs. These conical 
 structures are only five or six feet in diameter, and 
 are built in the following manner : a circle of sticks, 
 two feet high, is first planted in the ground, and 
 this is filled in with clay, which is beaten down 
 hard. On this foundation a very sharp cone of 
 lio-ht sticks is erected, and the leaves that form the 
 covering tied to it. These leaves are very large 
 and heart-shaped, and seem, from the quantities 
 used in building, to be plentiful about here, though 
 I have never seen the tree they grow on. The door 
 of these huts is just large enough for a man to 
 crawl through. 
 
 Eound the whole place the bush had been cleared 
 away, so as to leave no cover for any enemies ap- 
 proaching from the land side. On the north, the 
 clearing had been extended for some distance up 
 the river, and formed a sort of esplanade, where 
 Major Barttelot and his companions took their con- 
 stitutionals. At the far end of this clearing began 
 the road down which Stanley had led his men a 
 year before ; and just at this spot was the cemetery, 
 where the graves of nearly eighty of Major Bart- 
 telot's men (who had succumbed to the hardships 
 of the past year) made one pause, and reflect on the 
 uncertainty of human life. Such was the place in 
 which the Major and his company had lived for 
 nearly a year. On his first arrival, Stanley had, 
 as he wrote to the newspapers, captured the place
 
 SCAECITY OF PROVISIONS. 229 
 
 by means of steam-whistles ; ^ after which, havino- 
 awaited the return of the steamer which he had 
 sent to Stanley Falls with Tippoo Tip, and made 
 all arrangements in his power to facilitate the ad- 
 vance of Major Barttelot on the arrival of the pro- 
 mised carriers, he left Yambuya, June 28th, 1887, 
 hoping to return some time in November of the 
 same year. Tippoo Tip had, as before mentioned, 
 promised to send for 600 men from Kassongo, a 
 place near Nyangwe. Should these men arrive be- 
 fore Stanley's return. Major Barttelot had ample 
 instructions as to the route he was to take in follow- 
 ing on his track. Every possible contingency was 
 provided against ; and had it not been for the dila- 
 toriness — m my opinion the treachery — of Tippoo 
 Tip, and the other Arab chiefs, Stanley would long 
 ere this have achieved his object. After his de- 
 parture, the Europeans left behind were, for a time, 
 subjected to great privations, as the natives had 
 not yet returned to their homes, and food was diffi- 
 cult to obtain. Beans, which they had brought up 
 the river with them, and manioc from the fields 
 round the camp, were all that could be had for 
 some time. Gradually, however, the people ven- 
 tured back, and, gaining confidence, were beginning 
 to bring meat and fish to sell to the strangers, 
 when, suddenly, Salim bin Mahomed, one of Tippoo 
 Tip's head-men, appeared on the scene, with 150 
 
 ' See letter published in the daily papers for Aug. 19th, 1887.
 
 230 MAJOR BARTTELOT's CAMP. 
 
 Manyemas, and began to raid the country for ivory 
 and slaves. Mr Troup described to me many of the 
 horrible scenes he had been obliged to witness, — 
 among other things, he told me of some women wh© 
 tried to escape in a canoe, and when it was upset, 
 were shot down in the water by the Arabs while 
 trying to swim to the other side. 
 
 I subsequently saw a letter to the Times, which 
 referred to this affair in the following terms : 
 " Englishmen have stood and watched while their 
 Manyema allies (!) fired at the heads of unhappy 
 women and children who had leaped into the river 
 and were trying to swim across, and have gathered 
 round the Manyema camp-fires at night, to hear 
 them relate their prowess." Now, Major Barttelot 
 and his companions were no more to blame than 
 the Emperor of China for this state of affairs. 
 They had Stanley's orders to keep on good terms 
 with the Arabs and the natives. Had they inter- 
 fered on behalf of the latter, it would manifestly 
 have been impossible to keep on good terms with 
 the Arabs, as Salim bin Mahomed, who was sup- 
 posed to be present as the representative of Tippoo 
 Tip, Governor of Stanley Falls (who had agreed 
 with the Congo Free State to do all in his power 
 to prevent the tribes on the Congo, as well as Arabs 
 and others, from engaging in the slave-trade), was 
 raiding the country right and left, unrestrained. 
 Even had the Europeans been free to act according
 
 MAJOR BARTTELOT AXD SALIM. 231 
 
 to tlieir own opinion of wiiat was right, what 
 could they have done, with only two hundred men, 
 the greater part of whom were Zanzibaris, and 
 would probably have deserted at once, had there 
 been a fight with the Ai-abs ? As it was, the Major 
 had great difficulty in keeping clear of hostilities ; 
 for Salim bin Mahomed became so eager to possess 
 the guns, powder, and other stores left by Stanley, 
 that he did all he could to pick a quarrel with 
 the Europeans, in order to have an excuse for 
 bringing up two or three thousand men, extermi- 
 nating them (the Europeans), and seizing the stores. 
 The duty of the members of the expedition was to 
 do all in their power to hasten after Stanley with 
 the stores ; and a rupture with the Arabs, who were 
 to provide the carriers for these stores, would cer- 
 tainly not have furthered this object. The writer 
 of the letter above quoted seems to have been 
 under the impression that the expedition was sent 
 out to suppress the raids of the Arabs : to have 
 done this effectually would have required a whole 
 army, instead of 200 men, the greater part of whom 
 were Mohammedans, and naturally in sympathy 
 with their co-religionists. As for " sitting round 
 the Manyema camp-fires," &c., I can only say I 
 never heard of any of the five white men doing so ; 
 and should think it would have been a somewhat 
 dangerous proceeding, considering the strained re- 
 lations existing between them and the Arabs.
 
 232 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 The letter goes on to say : " The 400 Manyemas 
 who have consented to go with Major Barttelot 
 have only done so after expressly stipulating that 
 they are not to be interfered with ; so that pillage, 
 murder, and man-eating will no doubt lay waste 
 the country along the line of march, as they have 
 already the country round the camp. The column 
 will thus throw open still more virgin country to 
 the Manyemas, who will be able to supply the 
 Stanley Falls trading factory with marvellously 
 cheap ivory." 
 
 When Mr Jameson arrived at Yambuya, with 
 Tippoo Tip and these 400 men, I heard him men- 
 tion to Major Barttelot that the Manyemas had 
 made this stipulation ; and the Major replied that 
 he would see the State officials about it, and do all 
 in his power to prevent the granting of such a con- 
 dition. The Stanley had by this time arrived at 
 Yambuya, with three or four Belgian officials of 
 the Free State, destined for Stanley Falls Station. 
 
 Of these, two, if not three, were, as responsible 
 representatives of the State, in a position to insist 
 on knowing the terms of the agreement between 
 Major Barttelot and the Manyemas; and one of 
 them, at least, was aware of the above condition, 
 for I heard Mr Jameson mention it in conversation 
 with him and Major Barttelot. 
 
 Major Barttelot's duty was to take the men from 
 Tippoo Tip, and set out immediately to follow
 
 Tippoo tip's demands. 233 
 
 Stanley — who was supposed to have made all 
 necessary arrangements with Tippoo before leaving. 
 The palaver which followed the arrival of the men 
 at Yambuya was caused by extra demands on the 
 part of Tippoo Tip, who — as Governor of Stanley 
 Falls — had, or was supposed to have, undertaken 
 to suppress all raiding for slaves and ivory ; while 
 all those officials of the Free State who were in a 
 position to do so, were, on their part, bound to 
 prevent the engagement of the men on such con- 
 ditions as those named above. Tippoo Tip's de- 
 mands appeared to me to be made simpl}^ with a 
 view to extorting gunpowder; for he demanded 
 and w^as paid in ammunition which should have 
 gone to relieve Emin Pasha. Indeed there is some 
 ground for the suspicion that he purposely brought 
 only 400 men, instead of the promised 600, so that 
 the Major, being unable to take all his loads, might 
 be the more ready to pay him (Tippoo) in gun- 
 powder, which is here very valuable, and difficult 
 to obtain in any quantity. Here again the State 
 officials might have delayed, if not averted, the 
 evil day for some poor natives ; for they knew to 
 what uses the powder would be put, and had they 
 insisted on Tippoo Tip's being paid by cheque in- 
 stead, he would have had to wait at least a year 
 before that cheque could have been exchanged for 
 ammunition. 
 
 As for the " virgin country " to be " thrown
 
 234 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 open " by the exj)edition column, Salim bin 
 Mahomed's men had not only raided the country 
 behind Stanley's back, and in his line of march, to 
 a distance of some fifteen days' journey from Yam- 
 buya, but had crossed the Aruhwimi, and laid 
 waste the country to the north and north-west, 
 as well as the right bank of the Aruhwimi, nearly 
 down to its junction with the Congo. With these 
 men raiding in front of them, therefore, very little 
 would have been left for the 400 Manyemas to do. 
 
 After Salim bin Mahomed had been for some 
 months raiding round Yambuya, he came into 
 collision with Major Barttelot, and the latter, as 
 the only means of avoiding a fight, walked to 
 Stanley Falls, and, finding Tippoo Tip away, called 
 on Nzige, his deputy, and so managed matters that 
 Salim either was recalled to the Falls, or went on a 
 long expedition ; at any rate he disappeared from 
 Yambuya, and for a time the aspect of afiairs 
 improved. 
 
 A few days before the arrival of the A. LA. at 
 Yambuya, Salim reappeared with 2000 men, who 
 were quartered in the country round about— Salim 
 himself forming a camp close behind Major Bart- 
 telot's. He then forbade the natives to sell food 
 to the white men, demanded for his own use the 
 stores of the Emin Pasha Expedition, which, of 
 course, were refused him, and also sent men to 
 break up the canoes of the expedition, which were
 
 SPOILT IVORY. 235 
 
 lying in the river, at the foot of the bluff on which 
 the camp stood. He would perhaps have pro- 
 ceeded to even greater lengths, had he not heard 
 that Mr Ward had gone down the Congo to send 
 telegraphic despatches to the committee in England. 
 Such, apparently, was the state of affairs wdien 
 I arrived at Yambuya in May 1888. Having 
 waited there some four days, owing to a rumour 
 (which, on Major Barttelot's going to investigate 
 the matter, turned out to be false) that Stanley 
 was within two days' march of us on his return 
 to the camp, I got up steam on the morning of 
 May 11th, and we prepared to start. Mr Troup 
 was slightly better than when we found him, and 
 we promised that either the A. LA. or the Stanley 
 should come and take him down-river if he did 
 not soon recover. As Tippoo Tip was now an 
 ofhcial of the State, the officer on board offered 
 to take the ivory collected at Yambuya by Salim 
 bin Mahomed round to Stanley Falls in the A. I. A. 
 This offer was at once accepted, and Salim's men 
 stow^ed away about 1500 lb. of ivory in our whale- 
 boat. Some of the tusks were very fine ; but at 
 least two- thirds of them, which had been taken from 
 villages burnt by the Manyemas, were considerably 
 reduced in value by the cracks and blisters caused 
 by the heat of the burning huts. These tusks 
 contrast very unftivourably with the fine ivory 
 bought peaceably and cheaply by European traders
 
 236 MAJOR BARTTELOt's CAMP. 
 
 on the Congo, which is worth about four times as 
 much ; and afford a striking proof of the low value 
 set on human life by the Arabs, who, for the sake 
 of a few^ such, will murder scores of men and 
 women. Havino; taken on board two or three of 
 Salim's men to look after his ivory, we started ; 
 and the steamer, being much lighter than before, 
 and having the current in her favour, shot rapidly 
 past the numerous villages on the banks of the 
 Aruhwimi, and by nine o'clock the next morning 
 had turned the corner, and w^as ascending the 
 Congo towards Stanley Falls. The Aruhwimi 
 district, as I saw it, w^as certainly the most 
 densely populated part of the Congo Free State 
 I had visited. Villages, large and small, crowded 
 each other along the banks, four of which — Mo- 
 kulu, Umaneh, Bondeh, and Yambumba — certainly 
 deserved the term "metropolitan," applied by 
 Stanley to the last of the four. This dense 
 population will soon diminish under the rule of 
 the Arabs, who do not allow the natives to build 
 permanent huts, but encourage them to make 
 raids on other tribes and capture slaves and 
 ivory, which they then buy of them. I have 
 been told by men who have been at Nyangwe, 
 that this system has been so thoroughly carried out 
 there, that the country is now so thinly populated 
 as to render it a matter of difficulty to procure 
 food; and that one tribe, w^ho had been supplied 
 by the Arabs with guns and powder for these
 
 DOKELE. 237 
 
 raids, had revolted, and kept tlie weapons to go 
 raidinof on their own account. 
 
 AboA^e the mouth of the Aruhwimi, the Congo 
 narrows considerably and the islands thin out. 
 The north bank gradually rises, till it ends in a 
 grand, forest-topped bluff over fifty feet in height ; 
 and this, again, gives place to a range of hills, 
 whose densely wooded sides slope steeply down 
 to the water's edge. 
 
 On May 14th we came to a clearing on the south 
 bank, where a number of temporary native huts 
 were erected, and a number of canoes, with a shel- 
 ter of sticks and grass rigged up amidships, lay 
 alongside the bank. In these the people — who 
 formerly lived in large villages, till the Manyemas 
 descended the Congo and destroyed them — live 
 and sleep, moving about from place to place. 
 About ten of the smaller canoes, paddled by some 
 very nude natives, put off to bring us yams and 
 fish for sale. Very jolly natives these, and evi- 
 dently very glad to see us, for they started a song 
 and dance in our honour, paddling hard the whole 
 time, and yet, in spite of the dancing, contriving to 
 keep their small craft upright on the water. The 
 words of the sonsj — of which I was unable to obtain 
 a translation — were, as nearly as I could write them 
 down, as follows : — 
 
 " I yon so dokele, 
 I yon so dokc'lo, 
 Duda, duda."
 
 238 MAJOR BARTTELOTS CAMP. 
 
 Some of these men had hideously ugly faces, 
 having covered them with cicatrisation to such an 
 extent that it was hard to tell which of the huge 
 lumps of flesh was originally meant for the nose. 
 Others were better-looking, and had fairly pleasant 
 countenances, but all seemed delighted to see us. 
 There is a fashion here of boring a hole in the up- 
 per lip and the lobe of each ear, into which is in- 
 serted a conical plug of wood or ivory. This is 
 gradually pressed in, so as to enlarge the hole to 
 the required size, and when the latter is extended 
 to suit the fancy of the victim, a circular highly 
 polished slab of ivory is inserted. With one of 
 these in his lip, and another in each ear, the native 
 puts on a " la-di-da " air, and expects to produce a 
 strong impression on the young-lady portion of his 
 acquaintance. Should the gentleman desire to do 
 the complete " masher," two or three plugs, each 
 larger than the last, are used, one after another, 
 till the lobes of the ears and the lips are stretched 
 into a narrow band like a strip of leather. I 
 saw one man who had his mouth completely 
 hidden by a round piece of ivory nearly two 
 inches in diameter, w^hile two more pieces of the 
 same size hung suspended by the lobes of his 
 ears. This man seemed to have reached the " too 
 utterly utter " stage of masherdom, for he could 
 do nothing but lean on his paddle and gaze 
 contemptuously down on the beads and cowries
 
 CANOE-BUILDING. 239 
 
 wherewith I tried to tempt him to take out and 
 sell his decorations. 
 
 Farther on we came to a succession of clearings 
 just below the junction of the Lomami with the 
 Congo, where I counted over three hundred canoes 
 of various sizes. About the centre of these clear- 
 ings were several large trees, among which stood 
 an Arab house conspicuous for its size. It was 
 evidently market-day here, for in front of this 
 house was an enormous crowd of natives — there 
 must have been over three thousand men, women, 
 and children gathered there ; for there were many 
 more canoes than the three hundred I counted, 
 and ten persons to a canoe is a very low average, 
 as many of them were 40 feet long, by 3 or 4 feet 
 beam, and would be inhabited by several families, 
 numbering, perhaps, altogether between thirty and 
 forty individuals. One of these great canoes is to 
 the natives of Central Africa what an Atlantic liner 
 is to the British merchant — too large a concern to 
 be built or owned by one man, unless that man is 
 a very big chief indeed. Consequently, when a 
 native finds an enormous cotton-tree with a fairly 
 straight trunk growing conveniently close to the 
 river, he forms a company by getting several of his 
 friends to come and help him to cut it down, and 
 carve out the canoe. This business takes from six 
 to nine months to complete, and the families of the 
 men come and camp near the spot where they are
 
 240 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 at work, catching fish, or otherwise employing 
 themselves till the canoe is finished, when they 
 move on board, and start on their first fishing or 
 trading venture. Up at Stanley Falls it is more 
 usual for several fishermen to join together, and 
 having caught and dried a huge pile of fish, ex- 
 change it for a canoe with one of the tribes up the 
 Chofu river, a little to the north, who are great 
 canoe-builders. Sometimes two families inhabit- 
 ing one canoe fall out ; and I have on several occa- 
 sions been greatly amused watching the men in a 
 large canoe throwing overboard not only the furni- 
 ture and household gods, but also the dogs, fowls, 
 and goats, and even the women and children of 
 their rivals, while the canoe drifted helplessly down- 
 stream. In one canoe the palaver ended in the grass 
 roof amidships giving a violent heave, and going 
 bodily overboard — revealing a mass of struggling 
 niggers, trying to throw each other into the water 
 till they upset the canoe. 
 
 Rounding a point just above this, we came in 
 view of the mouth of the Lomami, and some more 
 Arab houses, which turned out to be the head- 
 (|uarters of Raschid,^ Tippoo Tip's reputed nephew 
 — the man who, two years before, had directed the 
 attack on Stanley Falls Station, and, by his success 
 there, greatly increased his renown among the 
 Arabs and Manyemas. He was quite a young man, 
 
 1 " The wise man."
 
 5^
 
 raschid's diversions. 241 
 
 with a light-yellow complexion — suggesting that 
 of a white man suffering from a bad attack of 
 yellow jack — bright, restless eyes, and very thin 
 lips. He was dressed in the usual Mohammedan 
 style — in long white shirt, and short white em- 
 broidered jacket, with a light-yellow turban on his 
 head. On his invitation we made fast to the shore, 
 and stopped there for the rest of the day. In the 
 evening I went up to the top of the high river- 
 bank, to a house used as a sort of divan, where 
 I found Easchid and his principal men seated on 
 mats. On a seat opposite were three or four Kas- 
 songo drummers, who performed at intervals, while 
 the Arabs discussed the topics of the day. A 
 crowd of Manyemas and natives of the place soon 
 gathered round, and went through some very in- 
 tricate dances, in which every one seemed to be 
 moving in all directions at once. The inhabitants 
 of the Stanley Falls district certainly excel all 
 others I have seen in dancing. I have watched 
 over a hundred of them engaged in a set of most 
 complicated evolutions for nearly half an hour, 
 without one man getting out of place. As the 
 hour of 6 P.M. approached, and the sun neared the 
 western horizon, prayer-mats began to appear ; and 
 soon all the Arabs were absorbed in their devotions, 
 bowing down towards the east in a way which 
 seemed to indicate that they were trying to com- 
 mit suicide by knocking their foreheads against the 
 
 Q
 
 242 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 ground. When this performance began, I retired 
 to the steamer, and had my usual evening bath. 
 Soon after I had finished, a Zanzibari came and 
 brought a message, asking me u\) to " chop " in 
 Raschid's house ; so I followed him up the bank 
 into a large enclosure surrounded by a high 
 bamboo fence, and containing several huts, and 
 one house of quite respectable size. The latter 
 was occupied by Raschid, and the huts by his 
 slaves and women. I was conducted into Ras- 
 chid's bedroom, where I found he had a large 
 double bed furnished with mattress, blankets, 
 sheets, and mosquito-curtain, quite in the European 
 style. Scattered about were various spoils from 
 Stanley Falls, such as Mr Deane's camp-table and 
 chair, a torn copy of Stanley's ' Five Years on the 
 Congo,' in French, a pair of hunting -boots, the 
 station-bell, and a broken revolver. On either side 
 of the door were two or three guns, among which I 
 noticed a Winchester, a Spencer's repeating-rifle, 
 and a self-extracting revolver. All of these, how- 
 ever, as I soon found, were out of repair, and use- 
 less for fighting purposes. While we were waiting 
 for dinner, Raschid entertained us with an account 
 of the attack and defence of Stanley Falls Station, 
 two years before, interspersed — he being unaware 
 that I had gone up in the A. I. A. to ]\Ir Deane's 
 rescue — with some most atrocious lies as to the 
 number of our men shot down by the Arabs. He
 
 kaschid's tale. 243 
 
 also informed me that Deane had been shot through 
 the arm by one of his (Raschid's) men, and was 
 rather taken aback when I told him I knew all 
 about it, having been present when Deane came on 
 board the steamer, and seen him for myself. 
 
 Raschid then went on to relate how, when the 
 A. I. A. went dow^n- river, he and his compatriots 
 were terribly frightened, not knowing w^hat the 
 resources of the State might be, and expecting that 
 at least tw^enty large steamers, crammed with men 
 and big guns, would shortly come up and drive 
 them out of the region of the Falls. They had 
 therefore proceeded to strengthen their position to 
 the best of their ability ; though, if prompt action 
 had been taken by the State, they w^ould have been 
 obliged to abandon all their posts below Stanley 
 Falls. They had sent express messengers to Kas- 
 songo and Zanzibar, and had gradually — as month 
 after month passed, and they still remained unmo- 
 lested — brought up reinforcements of Arabs and 
 Manyemas ; until at last, nearly a year later, when 
 they saw the Henry Reed coming up the reach be- 
 low^ the mouth of the Lomami, they considered 
 themselves strong enough to defy the State. 
 
 Meanwhile, what w\t,s the State doing ? Month 
 after month I lived in almost daily expectation of 
 seeing an armed force come up the river, fully 
 equipped for re-establishing the lost station, and 
 punishing the Arabs, who had caused the death of
 
 244 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 one of their officers, and nearly of another. Nearly 
 a year passed, before at length the rumour reached 
 us of a mighty expedition proceeding up-river. It 
 is easier to imagine than to describe my disgust 
 when, on my arrival at Bangala {l)eing al^sent when 
 the expedition passed), I heard that Tippoo Tip had 
 been appointed Governor of the Stanley Falls Dis- 
 trict, and that Mr Stanley, who was on his way to 
 relieve Emin Pasha, was going to see him safe to 
 his destination. Nor was this the worst ; for, as I 
 now found out, Tippoo had made good use of his 
 five senses on his journey round from Zanzibar. 
 He had been well received at Boma, and shown all 
 there was to see, — had experienced the difficulties 
 of transport past the Livingstone Falls, and dis- 
 covered what a time it took the State to get goods 
 up to Leopoldville. He knew how many steamers 
 could be mustered on the upper river, and how 
 long they would take to reach Stanley Falls — he 
 had, in short, been shown how weak was the Power 
 which, to him and his chiefs, had probably appeared 
 so formidable. His thoughts on the subject were 
 clearly sho^\^l by his answer to a trader who re- 
 marked that the Consjo Free State was a laro-e 
 country. " Yes," he replied, " it is a large country 
 on ijaper." 
 
 One of the Arab women now coming in to say 
 that " chop " was ready, we were shown into the 
 outer room, where was a small table, made from a
 
 ARAB FARE. 245 
 
 piece of the bottom of a canoe nailed to two posts 
 planted in the ground. On this were two plates, 
 wdth knives, forks, and spoons, two glass tumblers, 
 and two large dishes of rice, with one of curried fowl. 
 Raschid, having seen my companion and myself 
 seated, retired to his room, and left one of his 
 women to attend to us. As I was tolerably hungry, 
 and curried fowl a dish I had not seen for a long 
 time, I soon made a considerable hole in the huge 
 pile of rice, and, on getting up from the table, heard 
 my boy — who had been anxiously awaiting the re- 
 mains — grumble to one of his fellow-servants that, 
 if he did not soon change masters, he would starve, 
 — which, considering that he was as fat as a porpoise, 
 seemed to me an enormous stretch of his juvenile 
 imaQ;ination. 
 
 As soon as we had finished, Raschid rejoined us, 
 and, after some more talk, we retired to the launch 
 about 10 P.M., and turned in. 
 
 Next morning, starting about 6.30 a.m., we 
 crossed the mouth of the Lomami, and in about 
 two hours and a half arrived abreast of Yaporo, 
 where Captain Coquilhat and myself had a brush 
 with the Arabs in 1886, when returning from the 
 Falls with ]Mr Deane. 
 
 There was now a considerable Arab settlement 
 here, with five or six large houses ; but the native 
 village had (as usual when the Arabs made their 
 appearance) entirely vanished — numerous covered
 
 246 MAJOR barttelot's camp. 
 
 canoes along the bank showing where the people 
 now lived. Continuing our journey, we crossed to 
 the north bank, and reached Yangambi about 10 
 A.M. This place is very prettily situated on a 
 piece of flat ground, backed by a semicircle of fine 
 wooded hills, about 400 feet high, across w^iich 
 lies the road to Yambuya. From the top of these 
 hills, I have heard that a splendid view is to be 
 obtained over miles of country, covered as far as 
 the eye can reach with one vast ocean of dark- 
 green forest, through which the lordly Congo 
 ploughs its mighty way.
 
 MR. J. S. JAMESON. 
 
 Front a photograph, by kitui permission ef Mn. j aiiieson.
 
 24^ 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 ARAB REPORTS OF A LARGE LAKE — MAJOR BARTTELOT COMES ON 
 BOARD AT YALASULA — BWANA NZIGlfi — PRESENT STATE OF WANA 
 RUSARI — WALK ROUND THE ISLAND— POSSIBILITY OF PASSING 
 STANLEY FALLS BY MEANS OF LOCKS — THE BAKUMU AND WENYA 
 — THE CROCODILE AND HIPPO — RETURN OF JAMESON AND TIPPOO 
 TIP — "NUBIAN blacking" — TIPPOO KEEPING HIS ACCOUNTS — 
 SALIM BIN SOUDI — HER MAJESTY'S BIRTHDAY — A MANYEMA 
 CHILD WOUNDED — TIPPOO TIP AND HIS FOLLOWERS TAKE PAS- 
 SAGE FOR YAMBUYA — A CONTRETEMPS NEAR CHIOBA ISLAND — 
 A SNAKE ON BOARD — TIPPOO'S METHOD OF SECURING A NIGHT's 
 LODGING — ARRIVAL OF HIS SECRETARY AND GARRISON — ALTER- 
 ING THE LOADS — DIFFICULTIES WITH THE MANYEMAS — "GOOD- 
 BYE " — LEAVE YAMBUYA — TERRIBLE NEWS — THE HOLLAND — NEWS 
 OP DEANE's DEATH — SALIM BIN MAHOMED ARRIVES FROM YAM- 
 BUYA — THE LAST OF KINSI KATINI— I AM TAKEN ILL — WARD 
 COMES UP-RIVER. 
 
 The channel in front of Yangambi has very little 
 water, and the A. I. A., drawing three feet, could 
 barely get through. Later on, in the dry season, 
 one can walk rio:ht across this channel to the islands 
 in front. There being no news from Yarabuya, we 
 left here at 11.30 a.m., and rounded three high, 
 wood-covered, rocky points. There had been a
 
 248 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 landslip just above one of these, and the exposed 
 soil, with its layers of red sandstone and yellowish- 
 white clay, looked just like the section of a huge 
 side of streaky bacon. About 3 p.m. we arrived 
 at a place called Yalasula (marked Yaruche on 
 Stanley's map), and having no fuel, decided to 
 camp there for the night — the chief Arab promis- 
 ing to get us a supply of wood before morning. 
 After dinner, several of the chief Arabs of the 
 place came down to the steamer, and, over some 
 fragrant cups of coffee, told us about the natives 
 and the country. Among other items, they men- 
 tioned that a large lake existed in the region 
 between the lower Lomami and the bend of the 
 Congo. This lake, they say, is connected by a 
 small stream with the Lomami, and can be reached 
 from that river in one day with canoes : steam- 
 launches, they said, were useless, as the connecting 
 stream was not large enough. 
 
 Next morning, about half-past five, as I was 
 performing a very elementary toilet, the chief of 
 Yanoambi — a man who might have sat for a statue 
 of Hercules — came up in a canoe, and handed me a 
 small piece of folded paper. On opening this, I 
 found that it was a note from Major Barttelot, 
 stating that he had walked over from Yambuya 
 to Yangambi, and would be at Yalasula by 10 
 A.M., on his way to Stanle}^ Falls. His canoe 
 arrived punctually, and taking him on board, we
 
 ARAB VENGEANCE. 249 
 
 proceeded, and about 11 passed Yariembi and 
 luma, — two villages which, on our previous visit 
 (in 1886), had declined to have any dealings with 
 us. They were now occupied by Arabs and Manye- 
 mas — and the natives, where were they? Above 
 this, the river is for some distance clear of islands, 
 and rolls majestically along, in a single stream 
 over a mile wide. At 3.30 p.m. we arrived at 
 Yarukombe, the place where, in 1886, Captain 
 Coquilhat had found Mr Deane lying in a native 
 hut, more dead than alive. This place was also 
 subject to the Arabs, and the friendly natives who 
 had sheltered Mr Deane, and done their best for 
 him, were now scattered far and wide. I after- 
 wards heard that the chief of this village and 
 another chief, together with fifty of their fol- 
 lowers, had been beheaded by the Arabs for 
 assisting him. Eight opposite, perched on a high 
 bank in a deep bay, is Yatuka, whither we pres- 
 ently steamed, and made fast for the night on a 
 long spur of sand. That evening we dined up in 
 one of the Arab houses, and next morning were 
 delayed till 7.30 by our hosts coming down with 
 presents of food for our men as well as for our- 
 selves. We then continued our journey, and, 
 passing two more Arab settlements — Yatakusu 
 and Yakusu — arrived about 3 p.m. abreast of the 
 mouth of the Lukebu or Chofu river. On the 
 point of the peninsula formed by this river and
 
 250 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 the Congo was a small clearing; and here, in 1886, 
 I had made the A. LA. fast, while Samba searched 
 for Deane in the dense bush that covered the point. 
 The current here is very strong ; and not getting 
 on so fast as I had expected, we were obliged to 
 camp at a place pointed out to us by Major Bart- 
 telot, who had already been up to the Falls in a 
 canoe. Next morning a dense mist detained us 
 till 8 o'clock ; but by 10 a.m. w^e were made fast at 
 the landing-place of the old State station on the 
 island of Wana Rusari. Nothing now remained of 
 this — which had been the first of all the Upper 
 Congo stations — but the gun-shed, and the roads, 
 which the Arabs had, for some reason, kept clear 
 of grass. Before long, we were visited l:)y Tippoo 
 Tip's reputed brother — an old Arab, who appeared 
 to me as if he had just stepped out of one of the 
 pictures of the patriarchs which I used to see in an 
 old family Bible when I was a child. His face was 
 even a lighter yellow than his son Raschid's ; and 
 his grey beard, reaching nearly to his waist, gave 
 him quite a venerable appearance. He was dressed 
 in a long, flowing white shirt, and had a white 
 turban on his head. He was called Bwana Nzige, 
 which means " Master Locust " ; and very like a 
 locust he looked, his sharp, thin, yellow face 
 greatly resembling the frontispiece of that insect, 
 in spite of the aforesaid patriarchal characteristics. 
 I subsequently found out that this patriarch had
 
 DISMANTLED GUNS. 251 
 
 an insatiable appetite for chocolate, and would con- 
 tinue eating it as long as the supply was kept up. 
 Some of the Arabs with him were light-complexion- 
 ed, and others black as negroes ; all w^ere dressed 
 in heavily embroidered long white shirts. Having 
 had a good look round, and inquired into the 
 mysteries of the engine and boiler of the A.I. A., 
 the Arabs j^resently departed, and I was at liberty 
 to o'o ashore. All the oround where the old State 
 station had formerly stood was now covered with 
 Arab houses and Manyema huts, surrounded by 
 large tracts of cleared ground, planted with rice, 
 maize, manioc, &c. In the gun-shed were the three 
 Krupp guns dismantled by jMr Deane before quit- 
 ting the station. The breech-pieces, which had 
 been thrown into the river, had been recovered by 
 the Arabs ; but the breech-pins, linch-pins, cottas, 
 and all the small pieces were missing. The carriages 
 were so twisted — probably through the explosion of 
 the powder-magazine — that only one gun lay fair in 
 its bearings ; and although the hinges of these bear- 
 ings had been roughly repaired by Zanzibari smiths, 
 so that the s^uns could have been used as muzzle- 
 loaders, I rather doubt whether the native iron 
 used for these repairs would have stood the recoil 
 of the guns, and suspect that the Arabs would 
 have sustained more damage than they inflicted 
 on their enemies, in attempting to fire them off. 
 Old Nzig^ having appointed several empty mud-
 
 252 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 houses for our use, I removed all my effects into 
 the one occupied by Major Barttelot, but preferred 
 sleeping on board the launch to suffocating in the 
 unventilated, windowless rooms of these huts. 
 
 Next day, lieing Sunday, Major Barttelot (who 
 had previously visited the place) took me round the 
 island to see all the principal Arabs, with whom he 
 seemed to be on very friendly terms. The upper 
 part of the island, I found, consisted of a rocky plat- 
 form, raised some thirty feet above the lower half, 
 on the edge of w^hich was all that remained of the 
 Wenya village seen by Stanley in 1883. At the 
 upper extremity of the island the cataract tumbles 
 over a reef of rocks twelve or fifteen feet high, after 
 w^hich it pours down in a roaring, foaming rapid, 
 tW'O miles in length, at the foot of which lay the 
 little A. I. A. — her white sun-deck gleaming in the 
 mid-day light. A rocky wood-covered islet in the 
 very centre of this cataract formed a peaceful and 
 pleasing contrast to the w^ar of raging waters around ; 
 while on the far shore the houses and enclosures be- 
 longing to Tippoo Tip and his brother Nzige, seen 
 against a background of high forest, completed as 
 pretty a picture as any I have seen in Africa. 
 
 After spending about an hour in w^atching the 
 huge Wenya canoes, manned by thirty or forty 
 natives each, poling up the rajDids, and then, by 
 desperate efforts, paddling to the very foot of the 
 fall, where, holding on by liana-ropes attached to
 
 THE CATARACTS OF STANLEY FALLS. 253 
 
 sticks planted iu the clefts of the rock, they set 
 their nets to catch the fish washed over the cataract, 
 we crossed the island, as I wished to inspect the 
 small channel through which Stanley passed his 
 canoes in 1877. The reef of rocks at the upper 
 end of this channel was quite dry — the water only 
 leaking through fissures down below. The channel 
 is about thirty yards wide, and could easily be con- 
 verted into a canal by which steamers could pass 
 the Seventh Cataract of Stanley Falls, and gain 
 access to the twenty-six miles of navigable water 
 between this and the Sixth Cataract. The latter, 
 Stanley says,^ might, at certain seasons of the year, 
 be surmounted near the right bank by vigorous 
 rowing. If it could be done by rowing, a powerful 
 steamer would serve the purpose at least equally 
 well, and this would open another twenty-two miles 
 of navigable water. 
 
 This channel holds very little water in the dry 
 season, and its lower end is, like the upper, closed 
 by a reef of rocks. If the lower rocks were blasted 
 away, so as to form a deep channel up to the en- 
 trance (where a lock with sluice-gates would raise 
 the water in the channel to the level of the river 
 above the cataract), a well-placed charge of gun- 
 powder or nitro-glycerine would soon dispose of 
 the upper reef, and we should have, at a very slight 
 expense, a canal to the upper river. The work 
 
 1 The Congo, vol. ii. p. 155.
 
 254 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 could all be done in the dry season, when the 
 stream is low ; and as four feet is as deep a 
 draught as any boat can have to be taken up the 
 Congo in safety, six feet would be ample for the 
 channel below the lock. Timber and stone are 
 plentiful enough, but cement and iron gates for 
 the lock would have to he brought from Europe. 
 I say iron gates, as wood soon rots in this climate ; 
 and once the reef at the head of the channel were 
 blasted away, these gates would have to bear the 
 full pressure of a stream of water thirty yards wdde, 
 and about two feet deep. A double set of gates 
 would, of course, be required, so that one set could 
 at any time be removed for painting and repairs. 
 
 Judging by what I heard from Jameson (after 
 his return from Kassongo), I believe it would be 
 quite possible to get round the rest of the cataracts 
 of the Stanley Falls series in the same way, and 
 thus open out a continuous road from Xyangwe 
 to Leopoldville. It would certainly be a much 
 more feasible project than the Panama Canal ; and 
 when the Congo railway was finished, there would 
 be — with the African Lakes Company's service, vid 
 Zambesi, Shire, Lake Xyassa, and the Stevenson 
 Koad to Tanganika — two well-organised lines of 
 traffic into the very heart of Africa. If the present 
 rage for opening up Africa lasts a few years longer, 
 we shall see Cook and Caygill advertising person- 
 ally conducted tours across the Dark Continent !
 
 "sennene!" 255 
 
 During our walk round the island, jMajor Bart- 
 telot and myself looked in upon several of the 
 chief Arabs in their homes, and were hospitably 
 received by all, and regaled on maize-cakes, honey, 
 and fruit. Passing through the native villages, 
 the men and women crowded round us with loud 
 " Sennene 's " and rough handshakings ; and more 
 than one sable warrior — when none but his friends 
 were near — asked me if I had come to drive out 
 the Arabs, as his people were quite ready to rise 
 against them. All of these hints I was oblisred to 
 pretend I did not understand, for I could not tell 
 what on earth to answer. Had I been free, I would 
 gladly have done all in my power to help them ; 
 but I was in the service of the Congo Free State, 
 and this Free State had just appointed Tippoo 
 Tip Governor of Stanley Falls. What could I 
 say to the Bakumu and AVenya who crowded round 
 me ? Luckily for myself, I knew not a word of 
 their language, and could easily pretend to mis- 
 understand the interpretation of my Ba-Ngala boy, 
 who knew no English. The Bakumu are certainly 
 the finest-built men I have seen on the Congo, and 
 I never met any natives who seemed more heartily 
 glad to see white men. These people live princi- 
 pally on fish, of which they catch great quantities 
 when the river is flooded ; but, unlike the Ba- 
 Ngala, they do not eat crocodiles. The Ba-Ngala 
 give this as a reason why the crocodile does not eat
 
 256 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 the Bakumu ; but I believe that the crocodiles in 
 this part of the Congo must be of a different 
 species, having several times heard the natives, at 
 various places, assert that there are two kinds — 
 one that eats men, and one that does not. 
 
 I have often seen, on mud and sand banks, traces 
 of what appeared to me to be a fight between a 
 crocodile and a hippo. One day, when I mentioned 
 this to my Ba-Ngala boy, and asked him which 
 animal was the stronger, he replied, the crocodile ; 
 asserting in proof of this, that the latter will never 
 let a hippo eat men, but comes up when the hippo 
 upsets a canoe, drives him away, and eats the men 
 himself. Sometimes a crocodile tries to eat a young 
 hippo, and then the mother fights him, and, accord- 
 ing to the Ba-Xgala, always gets beaten, though, 
 for my part, I should think that the hippo, wdth 
 his huge tusks and \\dde jaw, would, being able to 
 use his feet, have a great advantage over the croco- 
 dile, who is wholly dependent on his teeth, backed 
 up by an occasional lash of his tail. 
 
 As Tippoo Tip was still away at Kassongo, and 
 no one seemed to know when he was likely to 
 return, there was nothing to do but wait till he 
 chose to appear. I therefore took the opportunity 
 of gettincf the launch and whale-boat cleaned out, 
 and put in proper order for whatever work w^as 
 coming next. On the afternoon of May 2 2d, a 
 tremendous dischars-e of muskets on the rio-ht bank
 
 MR JAMESOX. 257 
 
 announced to me that Tippoo Tip, alias Tippooru, 
 alias Mtipula, alias Hamed bin Maliomed, had 
 arrived, and I soon saw Major Barttelot and Lieu- 
 tenant Van Kerckhoven crossing the rapids in a 
 canoe. Being busy at the time, I was obliged to 
 remain in the A. I. A., in spite of my impatience to 
 find out whether Jameson had come with Tippoo, 
 and whether he had succeeded in o-ettino' men. 
 Later in the evening, Major Barttelot returned to 
 the island, and with him was Jameson, dressed 
 in grey trousers, grey flannel shirt, and sun- 
 helmet. After he had washed ofi" the dust of 
 his journey, we all sat down to dinner, and I spent 
 the pleasantest evening I had enjoyed for weeks. 
 Jameson's stock of yarns seemed endless ; and 
 during the short time I knew him, he was always 
 the same : no matter how l)adly things went, he 
 never lost his temper, and always had a song or a 
 joke ready for dull moments. His great regret 
 was the scarcity of game. He had — knowing 
 the Zambesi and Matabele - land — reckoned on 
 finding some sport in a country whither, as yet, 
 few hunters had penetrated, and was much dis- 
 appointed by the discovery that the country round 
 Stanley Falls was almost useless as a hunting- 
 ground, on account of the impenetrable under- 
 growth of the forests. As he remarked, he had 
 hardly, as yet, seen anything worth wasting powder 
 on ; and when he did catch a glimpse of an animal, 
 
 K
 
 258 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 it disappeared into the dense jungle before he coukl 
 set his gun to his shoukler. He further informed 
 me that Tippoo Tip had only been able to get four 
 hundred carriers instead of the promised six hun- 
 dred, as the men would not go to an unknown 
 country. 
 
 A day or two later, on walking in to lunch, I 
 found that Tippoo Tip had come over, and was dis- 
 cussing business with Major Barttelot and Jameson. 
 After the light complexion of the other Arabs, I 
 was somewhat surprised to find Mr Tippoo Tip as 
 black as any negro I had seen ; but he had a fine, 
 well-shaped head, bald at the top, and a short black 
 beard, thickly strewn with white hairs. He was 
 dressed in the usual Arab style, but more simply 
 than the rest of the Arab chiefs, and had a broad, 
 well-formed figure. His restless eyes gave him a 
 great resemblance to the negroes' heads with blink- 
 ing e5^es in the electric advertisements of some- 
 body's shoe-polish, which adorned the walls of our 
 London railway - stations some years ago, — and 
 earned him the nickname of " Nubian blacking." 
 
 As I was pretty busy getting the launch ready to 
 return to Yambuya, I did not get much chance of 
 observing him further ; but a day or two later, I 
 crossed the rapid in a canoe manned by Wenya 
 fishermen — who, knowing every current and whirl- 
 pool, manage to ferry over their great canoes with 
 comparatively little exertion — and found Tippoo
 
 A BLACK ROGUE. 259 
 
 Tip engaged in overhauling a large pile of ivory. 
 On seeing me, lie cleared a mat by his side, and in- 
 vited me to sit down ; and I spent a couple of hours 
 watching him, as each tusk was brought uj) and 
 marked by his men, and then entered by him on a 
 piece of paper in Arabic characters. Salim bin 
 Soudi, his interpreter, meanwhile told me how the 
 ivory I saw there — some two tons — had taken about 
 nine months to collect ; how some came from the 
 Lomami, and some from the Aruhwimi regions ; of 
 the fights they had had with natives, &c., &c., till 
 I could not help wondering how many human lives 
 were represented by each tusk. 
 
 This interpreter, Salim bin Soudi, answers so 
 exactly to the description of Mahomed bin Sayid 
 given by Stanley in ' Through the Dark Continent * 
 (vol. ii. p. 119), as to make me suspect him to be 
 the same man under a different name. He was 
 constantly coming to me for such things as oil, 
 cartridges, cloth, &c., telling me Tippoo Tip wanted 
 them ; but in so doing he had reckoned without 
 his host, as, in the first place, I was not in com- 
 mand of the State expedition, and could give away 
 nothing without an order from the oflicer in charge : 
 and in the second. Major Barttelot had found him 
 out, and warned us in time. So one day when he 
 came for some pieces of cloth, ostensibly for Tippoo 
 Tip, he was told they were not at hand, and would 
 be sent over as soon as the bale was opened. No
 
 260 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 sooner was he out of the way than one of our men 
 was sent to Tippoo Tip with the cloth, and returned 
 in a short time, bringing it back, with the message 
 that Tippoo had never asked for it. After this, 
 Mr Salim never again tried to get cloth out of me 
 under false pretences ; but he would freely come up 
 and beg for things on his own account. 
 
 The 24tli, being the Queen's birthday, was not 
 allowed to pass unnoticed by us ; and having 
 obtained permission, I ransacked the "medical 
 comforts " brought up from Bangala, and presented 
 Major Barttelot with one of the two bottles of cham- 
 pagne I found there. Having opened it, he pro- 
 posed her most gracious Majesty's health, which 
 we drank out of enamelled iron cups, Jameson 
 remarking that it was no use adding Highland 
 honours, as we could 'not break the cups without 
 the help of a hammer and anvil. 
 
 While I was at Stanley Falls, a Manyema woman 
 brought me a boy, about ten years old, who had 
 been cut down in a fight with natives, and left for 
 dead. How he managed to live passes my com- 
 prehension, for he had three tremendous wounds, 
 and was so weak from loss of blood that he had to 
 be held up while I dressed them. The first — 
 probably sustained in an endeavour to ward off the 
 knife — was along the right forearm, and was over six 
 inches long, and two and a half wide ; the second was 
 a cut on the right shoulder, given from behind, —
 
 GETTING THE CARRIERS TO YAMBUYA. 261 
 
 the knife had entered as far as the collar-bone and 
 left a mark on the shoulder-blade, but, luckily, did 
 not break it. This blow had knocked him on his 
 face, and then the natives had attempted to finish 
 him with two tremendous cuts across the back, 
 extending; from the left shoulder to the lower ribs 
 on the right side, and laying bare the left blade- 
 bone, the spinal column, and several of the ribs. 
 One of these wounds was quite twelve inches long, 
 and two inches across its widest part. It took me 
 nearly two hours every day to clean and dress 
 these injuries, but before I left Stanley Falls they 
 had begun to heal. 
 
 On May 26th, Major Barttelot and Jameson left 
 Stanley Falls in canoes for Yangambi, taking with 
 them the 400 men brought by Tippoo Tip from 
 Kassongo, who were to go by land from Yangambi 
 to Yambuya. Tippoo himself was to go round 
 with us in the A. I. A. two or three days later. 
 From the 26th to the morning of the 29th I was 
 down with fever, but during the afternoon of the 
 latter day I received a note from the officer in 
 command, saying that Tippoo Tip and twenty of 
 his people would be ready next day, and that a 
 canoe had been sent down - river to tell all the 
 Arabs at the different stations to cut wood for us. 
 A little later two large canoes, containing enough 
 dry wood to keep us in fuel for two days, came 
 alongside, I loaded up with as much as I could
 
 262 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 cany, and having got everything ready for leav- 
 ing on the morrow, turned in. Next day Tippoo 
 Tip came off, with all his chiefs and women, in 
 two large canoes. Many of these people, it is 
 true, only came to see him off ; but when all were 
 sorted out, I found that, instead of 20 men, he 
 had brought 54 men and 12 women. These, with 
 our own men, brought the total up to 83 souls, 
 all crowded into three small vessels — viz. : 
 
 The A.I.A., 42 feet long by 7 feet 6 inches 
 beam, and 5 feet deep. 
 
 AVhale-boat, 30 feet by 7 feet by 3 feet. 
 
 Canoe, 40 feet by 2 feet by 1 foot 6 inches. 
 
 There was hardly room to breathe, and the rail 
 of the launch was only some 6 inches above the water. 
 Going to Tippoo Tip, I told him that, if he wanted 
 to take so many people, he must give us a larger 
 canoe ; and he accordingly sent for one which, 
 though large enough to hold some sixty people, 
 made me doubt the power of the little steamer to 
 mount the strong current of the Ai'uhwimi, with 
 the whale-boat on one side and this canoe (60 feet 
 by 4 feet by 3 feet) on the other. However, we 
 were not at the Aruhwimi yet; so I lashed the 
 canoe alongside in place of our smaller one (which 
 was left in charge of the Arabs), and about 8.30 
 A.M. we started down-river. At eleven we reached 
 Chioba island, and took the right-hand channel. 
 Here, as the officer in command came forward, I
 
 ON THE ROCKS. 263 
 
 relinquislied my place to liim, and went aft to 
 have a look at the eno;ines. Hearino; a sudden 
 shout, I looked up, and saw that we were going 
 full on to a reef of rocks, over which the water 
 was dashino- itself into foam. I shouted to the 
 men in the bows to let go the anchor, but they 
 were too much excited to heed me ; so, putting 
 the engines full astern I rushed forward, but was 
 too late, for we crashed on to the rocks with tre- 
 mendous force, bumped over the first reef, and 
 stranded hard and ftist on the second. Tippoo Tip 
 who had sat still as a statue, was nearly thrown into 
 the water; and some one having unfastened the 
 bow-lashing of the canoe, she slewed round, and, 
 tearing away the stern-ropes, drifted off down- 
 stream, with the commanding officer and about 
 forty men on board. Stopping the engine, I tore 
 off my coat, and going into the water, examined 
 the propeller, rudder, and as much of the bottom 
 of the launch as I could reach, to see if any damage 
 was done. I found that we had escaped with a big 
 dent in the plates, which, but for the reversing of 
 the engines, would certainly have been a large hole. 
 Several canoes full of natives having come up, I 
 sent every man who could swim into the water ; 
 and Tippoo with his chiefs getting into the whale- 
 boat (which drew less water, and so had escaped 
 the rocks), and thus lightening the launch a little, 
 we contrived, with the assistance of the natives,
 
 264 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 to push her over the reef into the deep water be- 
 yond. The current was rushing over the reef like 
 a mill-race, but luckily every one held fast to the 
 boat as she drifted clear, and with the exception of 
 a wetting, no one was the worse. By this time the 
 men in the canoes had got out their paddles, and 
 being unable to make headway against the current 
 in the centre of the channel, made for the village 
 of Yatakusu ; when, having again lashed the canoe 
 alongside, I got into dry clothes, and at noon we 
 set off once more. We stopped that night at Yari- 
 embi, Tippoo and his people sleej^ing on shore, and 
 next day got off about 6.30 a.m., stopped a few 
 minutes at Yaporo about 10 o'clock, and then 
 went on to the Lomami, where we arrived about 
 1 P.M. Here we found Easchid, who had come 
 down the day before in a canoe, and had a large 
 pile of firewood waiting for us. We therefore 
 remained for the rest of the day. 
 
 In the evening, as I was refreshing myself with 
 a swim in the river, a shout of " nyoka " and a 
 general scramble of the Zanzibaris to get out of 
 the A, I. A., made me aware that a snake had 
 contrived to stow away on board. Mounting the 
 stern of the boat, I drew on a pair of boots, and 
 seizing a native spear and a pair of smith's tongs, 
 besan the hunt. I soon found that he had visited 
 our chop-box, and sucked nearly all the eggs ; then 
 I saw the end of his tail among some spears, and
 
 ROAST SNAKE. 265 
 
 pulling them aside, beheld a long snake of a beauti- 
 ful dark-green colour, covered with black spots. 
 He reared up his head and tried to bite me ; but 
 I pinned him down with the spear, and then, 
 catching his head in the tongs, carried him ashore, 
 where I held him down on the beach while a Zanzi- 
 bari decapitated him. He measured over 4 feet 
 in length, and 4| inches in circumference round his 
 thickest part, which was about one-third of his 
 length from the head. Some natives, seeing him 
 dead, came up and asked for him, to eat. As the 
 skin was damaged, I granted their request, and 
 they were soon seated round a fire, roasting small 
 pieces of snake in the hot ashes, and eating them 
 skin and all, much as schoolboys roast and eat 
 chestnuts. 
 
 Next morning we left the Lomami at 6.30, — 
 Raschid coming with us, — and at 7.30 a.m., on 
 June 2d, entered the Aruhwimi. As I had antici- 
 pated, the A. I. A. could not make much headway 
 against the current, with the heavy canoe she was 
 towing, and we mounted but slowly, so that it was 
 late on the evenins; of June 3d before we arrived at 
 Yambumba, the lowest Arab settlement on this 
 river. Tippoo Tip on hearing that we could reach 
 Yambuya about 4 p.m. next day, if we had not to 
 tow the canoe, gave orders to his people to get out 
 their paddles, and paddle her up. Accordingly, 
 when we started next morning, we left about thirty
 
 266 KIXSI KATINI. 
 
 Zanzibaris behind, to bring up the canoe. Tippoo 
 Tip, the whole time he was on board, always sat 
 Turkish fashion, in the same place, on some bales 
 of cloth, with his priest on one side, and Raschid 
 on the other. As it was the month of Ramadan, 
 neither he nor his men ate anything during the 
 day. About 4 p.m. we generally stopped at some 
 Arab settlement, where Tippoo and his men, going 
 ashore, spread out their prayer-mats, and occupied 
 themselves in devotion till six, when, the sun hav- 
 ing set, they prepared some food, and feasted dur- 
 ing the night. As long as we were in the Congo, 
 we always managed to reach an Arab settlement at 
 night ; but on returning into the Aruhwimi, w^e 
 had one night to sleep in a strange country, the 
 Arabs not having yet reached the villages on the 
 lower part of this river. When told that we could 
 not reach Yambumba (the nearest Arab settlement) 
 in time to pass the night there, Tippoo Tip said he 
 would stop at the first island we came to that had 
 a native village on it. A little after 4 p.m. we came 
 to a village on a small island, and approached the 
 shore. As soon as we were near enough, the Arabs 
 and Manyemas jumped ashore, gun in hand, and 
 drove the natives out of the villaoje to the other 
 side of the island, where they took to their canoes, 
 and tried to cross the river, while the Arabs and 
 Manyemas, standing on the bank, poured a perfect 
 hail of iron slugs after the wretched fugitives.
 
 THE STANLEY APPEARS ON THE SCENE. 267 
 
 Having cleared the island of natives, the Manyemas 
 started to catch all the fowls, goats, and other live 
 stock they could find ; and one of them came out 
 of a hut with a half-boiled, steaming human head — 
 which was, however, speedily thrown into the river 
 by the Arabs. Having seen all right on board the 
 boat, I went ashore, and found Tippoo Tip, Governor 
 of Stanley Falls Station for the Etat Independant 
 du Cono;o, makins; himself comfortable in the huts 
 whence he had just ejected the rightful owners. 
 
 Leaving Yambumba at 6.30 a.m. on June 4th, 
 without the large canoe, we were able to make a 
 good run, and about 11.30 a.m. stopped at a small 
 Manyema settlement to cut up some wood we had 
 on board, which was too large for the furnace of the 
 A. I. A. While on shore looking after the wood, I 
 heard a shout from some of my men, and looking 
 up, saw the Stanley coming round the far bend of 
 the river. The officer in command of the A.I.A. 
 went off with Tippoo Tip in a canoe to meet her ; 
 and by the time she was abreast of us, I had enough 
 wood on board, and w^as ready to follow her up- 
 stream to Yambuya. At 5.30 p.m. I made fast to 
 the bank, just below the spot where Captain Shager- 
 strom had moored his steamer. This was a full 
 mile from the camp, as the river had fallen during 
 my absence, and there was now not enough water 
 over the rocks to make it safe to approach tlie 
 rapids. I was very glad to see my old friends
 
 268 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 Sliagerstrom and De Man, the captain and engineer 
 of the Stanley ; and as soon as I could get clear of 
 the hundred and one things that had to be attended 
 to, I went on board to pay them a visit. I found 
 that the Stanley had brought up the long-expected 
 ganison for the Falls Station, in charge of three 
 Belgian officers, one of whom was to act as Tippoo 
 Tip's secretary ; and that, just after passing the 
 mouth of the Aruhwimi, they had heard that we 
 were on our way to Yamljuya with Tippoo Tip, and 
 had turned back to follow us. Being; a much larajer 
 and more powerful steamer than the A. I. A., the 
 Stanley had picked up the canoe left by us at Yam- 
 bumba and brought it up with her. Tippoo Tip, 
 highly elated at the arrival of his long-promised 
 secretary, now departed for Salim bin Mahomed's 
 camp in his canoe, taking with him, to my great 
 relief, all his chiefs, men, women, and household 
 gods. I dined that night on board the Stanley, 
 and it was late before I turned in. 
 
 Next morning (June 5th) I was up before day 
 light, and at 5.30 a.m. was on my way to the camp, 
 where I found that Major Barttelot and Mr Jameson 
 had arrived all right. Troup was much the same 
 as when I left him, but brightened up when he heard 
 that the Stanley had arrived, and that he would 
 shortly be able to start down-river. Bonny had in 
 some manner hurt his right hand, which was swollen 
 to three times its proper size.
 
 REDUCING LOADS. 269 
 
 When Mr Jameson came back to Stanley Falls, 
 with Tippoo Tip and the 400 carriers, I heard him 
 tell Major Barttelot that he had promised Tippoo 
 that these men should have only half-loads. The 
 Major replied that this would have been all right, 
 had Tippoo supplied eight or nine hundred men, 
 instead of only four hundred, as it would not be 
 possible to take above half the stores by giving 
 them only half-loads. They had a long discussion 
 on this point, and also a palaver with Tippoo, in 
 which the latter stipulated that none of the loads 
 carried by his men were to exceed 40 lb. in weight, 
 and finally got his way. It therefore became 
 necessary to reduce 400 loads from 60 lb, to 40 lb. 
 This meant unscrewing the lid of each case of ammu- 
 nition, removing a portion of the contents, filling 
 up the empty space with dried grass, and screwing 
 on the lids again. Troup and Bonny being laid up, 
 and the INIajor busy writing despatches, there was 
 only Jameson to attend to this work. Seeing the 
 state of affairs, I returned to the A. I. A., and hav- 
 ing finished the trifling repairs she required, went 
 to the ofiicer in command of the expedition, and 
 telling him my boat was in good order, obtained 
 his leave to take one of my men and go up to the 
 camp to help. As the Manyemas and Arabs had 
 left the A. I. A. and whale-boat in a very dirty state, 
 I set the rest of my men to clean them out in my 
 absence, and was just going to start for the camp,
 
 270 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 when a note arrived from Major Barttelot, asking 
 that two carpenters (natives of Lagos), who had 
 come up on the Stanley for the Falls Station, might 
 be sent to assist him. Having obtained these two 
 men, I took a canoe and went up to the camp, 
 where I found Jameson hard at work with a screw- 
 driver, singing all the time. He was very glad to 
 see the three men I had brought, and in a few 
 minutes we were all Ijusy among the ammunition- 
 cases. I was in that camp three days and two 
 nights, and I do not ever remember to have en- 
 joyed a piece of work more than I did the altering 
 of those loads at Yambuya, for Jameson kept up a 
 continuous string of yarns, songs, and jokes, which, 
 in spite of the labour, made me sorry that the day 
 was over, when the watchman came to ijiga ngoma 
 (beat the drum) at 6 p.m. During the evening, 
 and far into the night, we sorted out the lighter 
 loads, and as each was finished, it was stacked 
 in the middle of the camp, under an old tent- 
 cover. 
 
 Among these loads were a number containinof 
 Stanley's private stores. Finding, when all was 
 done, that the carriers would be insufficient, the 
 Major decided to open such of these as he could, 
 and sort out the contents, only sending on such 
 things as were necessary. As we could get no keys 
 to fit the locks, I cut the hinges of several tin 
 uniform-cases ; and the Major and Mr Jameson,
 
 THE MANYEMAS ON STRIKE. 271 
 
 having divided the contents into two lots, repacked 
 the cases, and I soldered them up again. 
 
 On June 7th we finished the last of the loads ; 
 and being by this time fairly tired out, I returned 
 to the A. I. A. in the evening, turned in, and had 
 a good sleep. While at the camp I had slept in 
 the mess-room, on an old tent, — the Major and 
 Jameson lending me a couple of blankets. On the 
 morning of the 8th, I went up to see Tippoo Tip 
 muster the caravan. There were 130 surplus loads; 
 and the Major decided that, as he could not get 
 men to carry them, they would be safest at Bangala. 
 Accordingly, Captain Shagerstrom took them down 
 to the Stanley, as well as two donkeys — the country 
 through which the expedition had to go being so 
 bad that a donkey would have been no use. About 
 9 A.M., Tippoo Tip and the Manyemas came for the 
 loads, which were all ready, laid out in rows, just 
 outside the camp -gate. I was talking to Troup 
 inside his hut, when I heard a noise — something^ 
 between a yell and the howling of hyenas, and 
 rushing out, found that the 400 men brought by 
 Tippoo Tip had refused their loads, because they 
 said some of them were a pound or two over the 
 regulation weight. I do not know whether Tippoo 
 Tip had anything to do with this refusal or not ; 
 but he and the rest of the Arabs walked away to 
 Salim bin Mahomed's house, while the Manyemas 
 dispersed to their camp. Major Barttelot, Jameson,
 
 272 KIXSI KATIXI. 
 
 and Bonny held a consultation, and the Free State 
 officers having come from the steamers, they all 
 adjourned to Salim bin Mahomed's house, where a 
 big palaver took place. The result of this was very 
 unsatisfactory, Tippoo Tip refusing to force the 
 men to carry the loads as they were. The loads 
 could not be reduced to the required weight with- 
 out an immense amount of trouble, as the powder 
 and cartridges were in air-tight, soldered tins, 
 weig;hinsf about 15 lb. each. Three of these tins, 
 packed in a wooden case, of from 10 to 12 lb. 
 weight, formed a load. Thus, when one tin of 
 powder was taken out, each load, including the 
 case, would weigh 41 or 42 lb. To reduce this, 
 the tins would have to be opened, and, after taking 
 out a pound or two of powder, soldered up again. 
 Except the engineer of the Stanley and myself, 
 there was no one at Yambuya who had either the 
 tools or the practice necessary for soldering uj) the 
 tins ; and, as the State officials would not hear of the 
 steamers remaining at Yambuya any longer, things 
 began to look serious. 
 
 I had too much to do preparing for departure on 
 the morrow to remain any longer in the camp ; so 
 saying good-bye to the Major and his companions, 
 I returned to the launch. Shortly afterwards 
 Troup was brought down in the whale-boat by 
 Captain Shagerstrom ; and going on board the 
 Stanley, I found him already looking better. In
 
 A BUSY MORNING. 273 
 
 the evening I heard that Tippoo Tip had been 
 persuaded to pass all the loads containing powder 
 and cartridges in air-tight tins, thus leaving only 
 about 120 loads to be reduced. I also received 
 orders to take the whale-boat up to the camp before 
 daylight next morning, and fetch down Kaschid 
 and ten other Arabs. At 3 a.m. on June 9th the 
 Stanley s fires were lit, and at four I turned out 
 and kindled those of t]ieA.I.A. By five I had got 
 my Ba-Ngala into the whale-boat, and was being- 
 paddled up the stream by starlight. Just as we 
 passed the Stanley, whose open furnace-doors shed 
 a weird light across the dark river. Captain Shager- 
 strom ascended the bridge and blew a long blast 
 on his whistle, and before I reached the camp she 
 had turned, and was steaming off on her way to 
 the Falls. On arriving at the landing-place, I 
 found Tippoo Tip waiting with a whole crowd of 
 men and women, whom he wanted to send round 
 in the A. I. A. He himself intended remaining be- 
 hind, to see the expedition start, and then cross- 
 ing to Yangambi, and going up to the Falls in a 
 canoe. Though day w^as breaking by this time, I 
 determined to have one more look at the members 
 of the expedition ; so I dashed up the bluff, through 
 the water - gate into the camp, and into Major 
 Barttelot's hut. The Major was sitting on some 
 boxes, his face buried in his hands, and his elbows 
 on his knees ; he seemed more depressed than I 
 
 s
 
 274 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 had ever seen him before. " Goocl-bj^e, Major ! " 
 I shouted ; " I have only two minutes to spare." 
 On hearing my voice he jumped up like a shot, 
 and seized my outstretched hand, exclaiming, 
 " Don't be in a hurry, old fellow. "We may all be 
 dead in another week, you know." Just then, the 
 notes of a bugle sounding the recall, and a long 
 whistle from the A. I. A., came floating up on the 
 still morning air, and one of my men rushed in to 
 tell me she was going to start. I turned to the 
 Major, who continued, " I should like to get home 
 to the old place again. If you get home before 
 news of me arrives, tell my father I was all right 
 when you saw me." " All right," said I, as I rushed 
 out. Jameson and Bonny were in the mess-room, 
 the former in high spirits at the prospect of starting 
 at last. A few hurried w^ords of farewell, and I ran 
 down to the landing-place, when I found that Tip- 
 poo Tip had filled up my boat with about fifty men, 
 women, and boys. After much persuasion, he con- 
 sented to take twenty out ; but even then I knew 
 we could not go, as the Stanley had left with the 
 large canoe fully loaded, and we had nothing but 
 the small launch and whale-boat. However, I 
 started, and when we reached the A. I. A., Easchid, 
 seeing the overloaded condition of the two boats, 
 disposed of ten more people, and we at length got 
 under way. 
 
 Before we had gone very far, the Belgian officer
 
 ASTOUNDING NEWS. 275 
 
 in command of tlie A. LA. came and told me that 
 Tij)poo Tip had tokl the Manyemas that, if the 
 Major did not treat them well, they were to shoot 
 him. This was such an astonishing statement that 
 I could hardly believe it ; but it was confirmed by 
 one of my men (a Zanzibari), and also by several 
 of Tippoo's own men, then on board, and, some days 
 later, by Salim bin Soudi, the interpreter. Had it 
 been in my power, I would have gone back to the 
 camp and told the Major ; but I was not in com- 
 mand, and had to obey orders and go on. From 
 that time until the day when I received the news 
 of the Major's death, I realised what the feelings 
 of Damocles must have been, as, day after day, I 
 expected to hear that the death which I seemed to 
 know was coming, yet was powerless to avert, had 
 overtaken him. Yet when, weeks afterwards, the 
 sad tidings reached me, I hardly seemed to realise 
 it. As long as I live, I hope never to be in the 
 same position again. It seemed like one long, long 
 nightmare : the everlasting falling down a ]3recipice 
 which has no bottom is the only thing to which 
 I can compare the state of suspense I was in for 
 the next ten weeks. But how different was the 
 awakening ! 
 
 Being well su^^plied with fuel, we soon passed the 
 Stanley — which, though a much faster boat than 
 the A. I. A., could only steam six or seven hours 
 per day, being forced to stop about 2.30 p.m.
 
 276 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 every day to cut the immense quantity of wood 
 required b}'" the two locomotive boilers with which 
 she was fitted; and, on the evening of June 11th, 
 we reached the Lomami, where the Arabs had a 
 quantity of dry wood ready for us. The Stanlejj 
 arrived next day, but, as they had provided no 
 wood for her, left after a short stay, in order to 
 search for dried trees higher up river. In the 
 evening we were treated to a water-dance by the 
 natives. About ten canoes, so close together that 
 they looked like a raft, came up the river, paddled 
 by some sixty men, who danced, sang, shook their 
 brass and iron bangles, and threw the water about 
 with their paddles. The canoes were rather small, 
 and there was just space enough between them to 
 allow the crews to use their paddles. Each was 
 entirely independent of the others, yet they all 
 kept exactly abreast, and the men in their dance 
 managed to move from one to another without up- 
 setting any. Leaving the Lomami on the morning 
 of June 13th, we arrived at Stanley Falls about mid- 
 day on the 15th, having jDassed the Stanley, which 
 came up about an hour later. The A. I. A. was to 
 remain ten days at the Falls, so that I took the 
 opportunity of cleaning out the boiler and execut- 
 ing sundry repairs required by the engine ; but 
 the Stanley was to unload as fast as possible, and 
 return at once to Leopoldville. I was by this 
 time heartily sick of the Arabs and Stanley Falls ;
 
 THE HOLLAKD. 277 
 
 besides which, the soles of my last pair of boots 
 were completely worn out, and I should have been 
 very glad to go down-country again. Troup (who, 
 though still very weak, seemed a little better, now 
 that he was aw^ay from Yambuya), seeing the state 
 of my foot-gear, kindly presented me with a pair of 
 hunting-boots; and, on the morning of June 18th, 
 the Stanley departed, taking him away on the 
 first stage of his long journey home. Little did I 
 think, as I watched her disappearing down-stream, 
 that I had seen the last of her, and should behold 
 the shores of Old England, and meet Troup re- 
 stored to health, before I again saw the old stern- 
 wheeler ploughing the dark-brown waters of the 
 Congo. 
 
 The day after the Stanley left, as I was on board 
 the A. I. A. writing a letter to Mr Deane, to tell him 
 about the present position of aftairs in his old sta- 
 tion, a steamer appeared round the bend of the 
 river. Taking a canoe I went down to meet her, 
 and found she was the Holland — the new stern- 
 wheeler of the Dutch Trading Company, with Mr 
 Greshoff (manager of their factories on the Upper 
 Congo) on board. Soon after boarding her, I heard 
 the sad news of Mr Deane's death. I could get no 
 particulars, except that, while out shooting, he had 
 been knocked down by an elephant, which had 
 driven his tusk throuQ;h his neck from behind. 1 
 was also told that Captain Bayley had been obliged
 
 278 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 to go liome on account of illness. The Holland 
 had picked up Tippoo Tip and his men at Yalasula, 
 to which place they had marched from Yambuya. 
 
 The Arabs having departed to their houses, and 
 the Holland being made fast, I went up to lunch. 
 On returning to the A. I. A., my unfinished letter to 
 Deane caught my eye. Deane — whom all the hard- 
 ships he had suffered, when escaping from the 
 Arabs in 1886, had not been sufficient to deter 
 from returning to Africa : — Deane killed, — and by 
 an elephant ! I tore up my letter, flung it into the 
 river, and seizing my gun, went off" into the bush 
 to shoot something. 
 
 In the evening, on going up to the house for 
 dinner, I heard that the old Emperor of Germany 
 was dead, and that he had been succeeded by his 
 son, the Emperor Frederick, who was not expect- 
 ed to live long, on account of the nature of his 
 disease. 
 
 The next few days were spent by me in over- 
 hauling the engines of the A. I. A., and by Mr 
 Greshoff" in buying Tippoo Tip's ivory with gun- 
 powder. The day before I left Stanley Falls, Salim 
 bin Mahomed arrived from Yambuya, bringing a let- 
 ter from Major Barttelot to Tippoo Tip. From him 
 I learnt that Barttelot, Jameson, and Bonny, were 
 quite well, that they were encamped six days' 
 march east of Yambuya, that the Manyemas had
 
 BACK TO BANGALA. 279 
 
 already begun to give trouble, and that this fact 
 formed the subject of the Major's letter to Tippoo 
 Tip. 
 
 On the morning of June 25th we were visited by 
 a tremendous tornado ; but by 8.30 a.m. both the 
 A. LA. and the Holland had steam up, and were 
 ready to start, which we did shortly after, leaving 
 behind us the three Belgian officers who had come 
 up in the Stanley to rebuild the station. As soon 
 as we were clear of the rocky part of the river, 
 which extends some twenty miles below the Falls, 
 the A. I. A. was made fast alongside the Holland, 
 and together we steamed down to Bangala, where 
 we arrived on the afternoon of July 3d. On July 
 6th the Holland left for Stanley Pool; and on the 
 7th I was suddenly seized with violent pains in the 
 stomach, and before night was down with acute 
 dysentery. I tried a large dose (60 grains) of 
 ipecacuanha, which seemed to arrest the disease for 
 some hours, but only to break out again in a chronic 
 form. Of all that happened during the next four 
 weeks I have no very clear recollection. I got 
 little if any sleep, until the Jui Avant arrived 
 from the Pool with Mr Herbert Ward, who was 
 returning to Yambuya, after having sent off his 
 despatches to the Emin Relief Committee, from 
 Loanda. As Major Barttelot had left Yambuya, 
 Ward was to remain at Bangala till he received
 
 280 KINSI KATINI. 
 
 further orders from the C^ommittee ; and on learn- 
 ing what was the matter with me, he set to work 
 to make me as comfortable as he could, so that I 
 soon began to improve a little. The A. LA. having 
 meanwhile left for the Pool, I applied to the chief 
 for a canoe to take me down to the missionary 
 station at Equator.
 
 281 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 A WET JOURNEY TO EQUATOR — KINDNESS OF MR AND MRS BANKS 
 — NEWS OF MAJOR BARTTELOT'S DEATH — DOWN-COUNTRY IN A 
 HAMMOCK — OVERTAKEN BY WARD — JAMESON DEAD ! — BACK AT 
 MATADI — THE " DEVIL'S CALDRON " — WARD CATCHES THE MAIL 
 — DOWN-RIVER IN A SCHOONER — CONGO STATE COINAGE — IM- 
 PROVEMENTS AT BOMA — TWO IN A PORT-HOLE — WAITING FOR 
 THE AFRICA — TO LOANDA — HOMEWARD BOUND — KOTONOU — ON 
 BOARD THE BIAFRA — THE ADDAH SHIPPING -CLERK's LETTER — 
 SIERRA LEONE — THE CANARIES — QUARANTINE AT MADEIRA — 
 CHARACTERISTICS OP ENGLISH SCENERY — HOME ONCE MORE ! 
 
 Ox the morning of July 19th, I received notice 
 that the canoe and twenty -two Ba-Ngala were ready 
 for me. I crawled down to the landing-place, and 
 lay down on the top of my boxes, under a kind of 
 awning of mats put up by my boy, and saying 
 good-bye to Ward, I was paddled away. In the 
 evening a heavy rain came on, which continued for 
 the greater part of the next thirty-six hours. I 
 managed to keep dry, by crouching in a heap under 
 the only two blankets I had, and at last arrived at
 
 282 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 Equator on the evening of the third day, more dead 
 than alive. Here I was very kindly received by 
 Mr Banks, who took me into his house, and — to- 
 gether with his wife, who made me beef- tea, and 
 anything else that I could take, and was untiring 
 in her efforts for my comfort — did all in his power 
 to restore me to health. In about a fortnight I was 
 able to walk about a little, and began to think I 
 should soon be all right, when eczema broke out all 
 over my lower limbs, and speedily spread, till I was 
 one huge sore from my neck downwards. What 
 saved my face I do not know, but was glad to find 
 that my head was not attacked ; wdiile from my 
 neck to the soles of my feet I could hardly find a 
 single square inch of healthy skin. 
 
 I found that Mr Glave, of the Sanford Company, 
 had handed over the charge of Equator Station to 
 Mr Boulanger, and was gone up the Oubangi on an 
 ivory-buying expedition, in the New York, a new 
 steamer belonging to the company. He did not re- 
 turn before my departure, although I was nearly a 
 month at Equator, and, to my great regret, I had 
 to leave without seeing him. At last — after what 
 seemed to me ages — the En Avant arrived from 
 Stanley Falls, bringing the sad news of Major 
 Barttelot's death on July 19th. I left in her the 
 same day, arriving at Lukolela August 19th. It 
 was here that Mr Deane had been killed by an 
 elephant, on May 15th, 1888, and buried close
 
 
 -Y 
 
 .1 
 
 
 <*llttni,F^^!-x^^j^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 'V » _• ■*■■ 
 
 
 'Vis 
 
 ; /■
 
 START DOWN-COUNTRY. 283 
 
 beside the spot where, six months before, I had 
 seen another grave dug for poor Spinnoch — the 
 Belgian who died on my last run down the 
 river. 
 
 On August 22d 1 arrived at Leopoldville. Here 
 I had a slight relapse, and learning from the doctor 
 at the station that I should not recover if I remained 
 in Africa, I applied for a hammock and carriers to 
 take me to the coast, and on August 29th, was 
 carried out of Leopoldville on my way to Matadi. 
 I will pass over the miseries of the first stage of my 
 journey, which I duly survived, arriving at Lu- 
 kungu, September 5th. Here, through the kindness 
 of Mr Hoste (of the A.B.M.U.), who gave me some 
 oxide of zinc ointment, I obtained some relief from 
 the unremitting pain of the eczema ; and here, too, 
 I found a friend of mine, Mr Hens, the artist, who 
 had come out with me nearly three years before, 
 and whom I had not seen since I left him at Boma, 
 when going up-country. Since that time he had 
 been to Europe, and returned to the Congo, and 
 was now on his way home for the second time, only 
 waiting for the arrival of the mail before starting 
 for the coast. On September 7th I was greatly 
 surprised by the appearance of AVard, who was 
 carried into Lukungu in a hammock, being unable 
 to walk, on account of ulcers on his feet. I was 
 greatly shocked by the sad news he told me of 
 Jameson's death from fever at Bangala, on August
 
 284 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 17tli. While deploring the sad event, I could not 
 but admire the devoted and untiring courage with 
 which Jameson had stuck to his duty till the last ; 
 and I hope that when AVard comes home, we shall 
 have full particulars of the events which brought 
 about his death. It seems that after Alajor Bartte- 
 lot was shot, Jameson, leaving Bonny to look after 
 the caravan, returned to Stanley Falls with the 
 assassin, and handed him over to the officials of the 
 Free State, who, after trial, sentenced him to death. 
 He then, having made arrangements with Tippoo 
 Tip for supplying men to take the remaining loads 
 to Wadelai, started down-river in a canoe to bring 
 up Ward and the loads lying at Bangala. Two or 
 three days after leaving the Falls with a crew of 
 Manyemas, not feeling very w^ell, he was lying down 
 in the canoe under a mat, when some natives, see- 
 ing a canoe full of Manyemas, and fearing that the 
 Arabs were descending the river on a raid, pre- 
 pared to attack them. On perceiving this, the men 
 came to Jameson, and hearing what was the matter, 
 he stood up in the blazing sun, waving his hat to 
 the natives. The latter, seeing a white man, de- 
 sisted from the attack ; but the exposure brought 
 on fever, and for eight days and nights — until 
 his arrival at Bangala — Jameson lay in the bottom 
 of the canoe, soaked to the skin by the water which 
 had accumulated there, and without a drop of tea 
 or anything but Congo water to quench his burning
 
 ONE MORE DEATH. 285 
 
 thirst. With ahnost superhuman courage he at- 
 tempted to throw off the fever, and at last reached 
 Bangala alive, but that was all. He lived only two 
 days, but, in spite of his weakness, succeeded in 
 telling Ward the state of affairs at Stanley Falls ; 
 and then, having done all that it w\as possible for 
 him to do, he died, almost his last words being, 
 " Hang this fever ! if I could only face it, I could 
 beat it ! " showing how, to the very last, he fought 
 against the sinking stupor. As Ward said, it was 
 nothing but sheer pluck that kept him alive till his 
 work was done. He had simplj^ lived for some 
 days on his determination to reach Bangala, where 
 he expected to find Ward, who would be able to 
 relieve him. His object gained, his strong will gave 
 way under the fearful strain, and one more name 
 was added to the long roll of those who have given 
 their lives for Africa. 
 
 As soon as he was buried. Ward left Bangala in 
 a canoe for Leopoldville, and was now on his way to 
 Loanda to get instructions from the Committee. 
 He only rested one night at Lukungu, and next 
 morning (September 6tli), at 6 a.m., he was off for 
 ]\latadi. To show the speed with which he travelled, 
 I may mention that, a few hours later, when my 
 carriers appeared, the chief of the station handed 
 me a letter to Mr Ingham, a missionary at Banza 
 ^lanteka. This letter, as I subsequently found. 
 Ward had sent off by special messenger two days
 
 286 MY EETURN HOME. 
 
 before his departure from Leopoldville ; and Mr 
 Ingham, after opening it, turned to me, and asked 
 why Ward had taken the trouble to write to him, 
 and then come on ahead of his letter, to tell him all 
 the news in person — a question I could not answer. 
 At noon I was carried out of Lukungu, and next 
 day was nearly mad with the pain of the eczema, 
 which was rendered worse than ever by the friction 
 caused by the motion of the hammock. On arriving 
 at Banza Manteka, I was again indebted to a mis- 
 sionary — Mr Ingham — for a temporary respite, and 
 spent a very pleasant evening with him and Mr 
 and Mrs Richards. On the morning of September 
 14th, I passed through Mpallaballa, another station 
 of the A.B.M.U., where I stopped an hour or two 
 with Mr and Mrs Clark. Leaving here at 2 p.m., I 
 crossed the Mpozo about four o'clock. As I was 
 carried over the top of the last ridge, I raised my- 
 self in my hammock ; and my men, giving a shout, 
 broke into a run, and carried me suddenly into view 
 of the waters of the Lower Congo. There, almost 
 under my feet, rolled the grand old river, her 
 waters looking like a flood of liquid gold in the 
 light of the sinking sun, as they foamed and curled 
 away down their rocky channel towards the ocean. 
 Between me and the river lay a rocky ridge, over 
 which I could just see the tops of a grove of trees, 
 marking the site of Matadi. 
 
 Three or four miles down the river I could de-
 
 THE END OF THE MARCH. 287 
 
 scry the roofs of the Baptist Mission-station at 
 Unclerhill, perched on a high rocky point, behind 
 which the river disappeared from view. Opposite 
 this was the " Devil's Caldron " — a large bay sur- 
 rounded by cliffs from 600 to 800 feet high. The 
 mighty river, in attempting to reach the sea, has 
 scooped out this huge indentation before taking a 
 turn which is nearly at right angles to its former 
 course, and now foams round and round in great 
 whirlpools, which seem to flash streaks of light 
 across the dark shadows thrown by the clifts — the 
 deep indigo of the mountains on the north bank 
 forming a splendid background to the whole 
 picture. 
 
 The prospect of speedily finishing their task 
 seemed to animate my men, and they tore down 
 the steep hill at such a pace that I suffered agonies 
 from the excessive friction of the shaking hammock 
 on my sore skin. However, I did not stop them, 
 as I knew that in half an hour it would all be over. 
 Just at sunset I was carried up to the door of the 
 chiefs house at Matadi, and was soon made as 
 comfortable as possible in a room, while my car- 
 riers were dismissed to the camp. In the evening 
 I heard that Ward had arrived the day before, but 
 too late to catch the steamer, and had, although 
 dead tired, gone to a great deal of trouble to pro- 
 cure a canoe to take him down to Boma by night, 
 rather than lose the Portuguese mail-boat, by which
 
 288 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 lie intended to send his despatches to the Island of 
 S. Thome/ 
 
 This was the second time Ward had come down 
 to the coast with telegrams and despatches, and on 
 both occasions he had made remarkably quick jour- 
 neys. He certainly had every facility for this — 
 being supplied with fresh relays of men by the 
 commanders of the different stations through which 
 he passed ; but no one seems to have been aware 
 that he himself was not relieved as well as his 
 men, but travelled almost day and night — never 
 halting by the way, or sparing himself till his duty 
 was done, and the steamboat and telegraph were 
 carrying his news to England. On his last march 
 to the coast he blistered his feet : the blisters de- 
 veloped into ulcers, and he was forced to take to 
 a hammock ; but he went on, and caught the mail, 
 writing some of his letters during his halts at night. 
 Though he twice performed the journey down the 
 river to the coast in a remarkably short time, he 
 got no thanks from the people he was gratuitously 
 serving ; and all the notice taken of him in Europe 
 — when the news arrived that he had again started 
 up-country after Stanley — was the remark in one 
 of the newspapers that Ward had for the last year 
 been rushing up and down the Congo like a shuttle 
 on a loom. 
 
 ^ There is no telegraph station on the Congo, the cable going right 
 past the mouth to S. Paul de Loanda. S. Thom^ is the next nearest 
 station after Loanda.
 
 A NIGHT ON A SCHOONER. 289 
 
 Having had but little sleep during the last few 
 nights, I obtained some opium -pills from the chief 
 of Matadi, and one of them soon sent me into a 
 kind of doze, from which I did not awake till 
 nearly 8 a.m. the next day, when I heard that a 
 schooner was to leave for Boma at eleven. As it 
 was not likely that another steamer would come up 
 that week, I decided to go in the schooner ; and 
 accordingly, having had all my loads stowed on 
 board, I was carried down to the beach, and placed 
 in the stern of the vessel, which was an open boat 
 of ten tons, manned by Cabindas. The wind was 
 up-river, and w^e had to tack, which so delayed us, 
 that by the time the wind dropped, after sunset, 
 we were still fifteen miles from Boma, and I was 
 obliged to spend the night on the schooner's deck, 
 covered with a blanket. Next morning w^e were 
 off again at daylight, and reached Boma at 9 a.m., 
 where I was glad to turn into bed, in a room given 
 me by the chief of the station. As I was able to 
 get more nourishing food here than up the river, I 
 soon became stronger, and was able to get about a 
 little. For this improvement in health I was chiefly 
 indebted to Mr Ainsworth, of Messrs Hatton and 
 Cookson's factory, Boma, who sent me eggs and 
 other dainties not to be had in the crowded State 
 station, and even offered to accommodate me in 
 his house until the arrival of the English mail- 
 steamer.
 
 290 MY RETURX HOME. 
 
 When I arrived at Boma, I found that the Congo 
 State authorities had instituted a new coinage for 
 circulation in their territories. The gold and silver 
 coins were very prettily designed ; but the copper 
 ones were made with a hole in the centre, like the 
 Chinese cash. This hole was put in specially for 
 the convenience of the natives, in order that — 
 having no pockets or purses — they might be able 
 to strino; the coins and hano; them round their 
 necks. But a nigger is not to be fooled ; he knows 
 what money is, and seeing the holes in the new 
 coins, concluded that a piece had been cut out, and 
 refused to acknowledo-e them as leQ^al tender. In 
 this way I found I could not get rid of some of the 
 new money 1 had, before leaving, except by taking 
 it to the post - office at Banana, where I had it 
 changed. Even the silver coins were accounted 
 bad — the natives refusing everything but English 
 money. This reminds me of an incident which 
 occurred on a part of the West Coast, near Lagos, 
 which has recently been annexed by France. The 
 French at once tried to substitute their own coinage 
 for the English, which had long been current there ; 
 and it is said that a native, on being offered some 
 ten-centime coppers, remarked in nigger English, 
 as he looked dubiously at the French eagle stamped 
 on one side of the coin, " Me sabey Queen's head ; 
 me no sabey them fowl ! " 
 
 Boma had greatly increased and multiplied since
 
 SUBSIDENCE OF " PALM-OIL RUFFIANS." 291 
 
 I passed through it on my way up to Bangala, 
 more than two years before. A broad, well-kept 
 road now led up from the pier to the Sanatorium, 
 and numerous houses had sprung up, both round 
 that place and on the beach. A new three-storeyed 
 iron villa had been erected for the Governor- 
 General ; but, as M. Janssens was now in Europe, 
 this was shut up — his deputy, j\I. Ledeganck, 
 living in a house close by. A row of smaller 
 houses stretched along one side of the road to the 
 Sanatorium ; and one of these was ambitiously 
 styled Palais de Justice, though Palais de Vln- 
 justice would have been a better title. The place 
 was, on the whole, becoming fairly civilised, and 
 the "palm-oil ruffians"^ no longer had it all their 
 own way ; though now and then they would break 
 loose — generally on the arrival of a mail-steamer, 
 when, for two or three days, the " Lord of Misrule " 
 reigned supreme. But law and order were gradu- 
 ally asserting themselves, and the days were fast 
 coming to an end when the officers of the mail- 
 steamers had to extricate the rowdies of Boma 
 from the port-holes of the saloon, where they had 
 stuck in their attempts to go ashore by a short cut. 
 
 ^ " Palm-oil ruffian " is a term used on the west coast of Africa 
 in the same sense as the word " larrikin " is in Australia. Palm-oil 
 being one of the principal articles of trade down this coast, the term 
 came to be applied to those traders who made themselves conspicu- 
 ous for their cantankerousness. It is now used to designate roughs 
 in general, all down the west and south-west coasts of Africa.
 
 292 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 Some years ago — in the days when the palm-oil 
 ruffians were fairly rampant — one of the new 
 vessels of the African Steam Navigation Company, 
 which had very large port-holes, arrived at Boma. 
 The saloon was, as usual, well filled with these 
 thirsty gentlemen, almost before she had dropped 
 her anchor, and business was pretty brisk till late 
 at night, or rather early in the morning, when the 
 crowd began slowly to disperse. Tw^o, rather 
 farther gone than the rest, took a fancy to go 
 ashore through the port-holes, and, for some reason 
 best known to themselves, both made for the same 
 scuttle. Somehow — goodness only knows how — 
 they both got their heads and shoulders through, 
 but could get no farther, and there they remained, 
 fighting like two cats hung over a clothes-line with 
 their tails tied together, till the chief officer and 
 three or four of his men managed to extricate them 
 after a o-reat waste of time and trouble. 
 
 I did not improve much in health at Boma. I 
 had, it is true, fairly got over the dysentery, but 
 the eczema became much worse, and the doctor 
 either could not cure it or did not take the trouble. 
 The pain and irritation were fearful, and I could 
 not remain still a minute without scratching^, 
 which only made matters worse ; so I developed 
 a restlessness worthy of the Flying Dutchman of 
 old, and went wandering all over Boma, visiting 
 the different trading establishments, or spending
 
 I LEAVE BOMA. 293 
 
 uneasy hours in lolling about Mr Ains worth's 
 rooms at the English factory, trying to read some 
 of the books he had lying about. 
 
 On September 21st, the African Steamship Com- 
 pany's steamer Africa arrived from Antwerp. As 
 she had to go to Loanda before starting on her 
 homeward voyage, and it would thus be over 
 ten days before she left Banana for Antwerp, I 
 applied to the Vice-Governor-General (who had 
 come up from Banana on board the mail-steamer) 
 for a passage to Loanda and back. He absolute- 
 ly refused to do anything for me. I was getting 
 no better, — all I could get from the doctor was 
 his opinion that I should improve when I got out 
 of the country, — and I began to wonder whether I 
 was ever to reach home alive. At last I obtained 
 permission to go to Loanda at my own expense. 
 Accordingly, I embarked, September 24th, and by 
 noon the Africa was steaming down the Congo on 
 her way to St Paul de Loanda. Under the care 
 of an English doctor I soon began to improve, and 
 by October 9th (when, at 10 a.m., we reached 
 Banana, on our return from that dirty Portuguese 
 settlement) my health had greatly benefited by the 
 voyage, and I was nearly cured of eczema, though 
 still very weak. 
 
 On arriving at Banana, I went ashore to draw 
 the money for my passage ; but owing to some 
 order of the Vice-Governor's (who, at the same time,
 
 294 MY KETURN HOME. 
 
 though my half-pay for over two years was still 
 in the hands of the State authorities, kindly wrote 
 to the captain of the Africa, telling him that 
 the State would not be responsible for the ex- 
 pense of my passage to Loanda and back, and 
 w^ould not cash any order for money drawn by me 
 on them), I could not get more than £8. This sum 
 was barely sufficient to pay my expenses on board 
 the Africa, when I left that boat for the Biafra some 
 two weeks later ; and had it not been for the kind- 
 ness of Mr Lemarinel (who was returning home at 
 the same time), and that of Captain Bales of the 
 Biafra, I should have landed in Liverpool without 
 a shillino;. 
 
 Mr Hens, who had been awaiting the return of 
 the Africa from Loanda, now came on board, and 
 on October 11th we steamed out of Banana Creek, 
 homeward bound. I now congratulated myself 
 that my troubles were ended, but soon discovered 
 that I had been shouting too soon, for I had not 
 yet " emerged from the forest primeval." A day 
 or two later I had another relapse of dysentery, 
 and on reaching Lagos, my disgust with things 
 in general was further increased by the an- 
 nouncement that the Africa had been chartered 
 to proceed to Kotonou, and load palm-kernels for 
 Marseilles. 
 
 Where in Africa was Kotonou ? We soon found 
 out, for five or six hours' steaming westward from
 
 SHARKS IN THE SURF. 295 
 
 Lagos brought us to a miserably small French sta- 
 tion, situated on a spit of sand behind which was a 
 large lagoon. There was a terrible surf here, and 
 the place swarmed with sharks. We soon found 
 that, owing to the surf, it would take some thirty- 
 fiA^e days for the ship to load up ; but were saved 
 from utter despair by hearing that the s.s. Biafra, 
 belonging to the same company as the Africa, 
 would come up in a few days, and take us to 
 Liverpool. 
 
 Till she arrived, we had nothing to do but watch 
 the surf-boats bring off the casks of palm-kernels. 
 Now and then a boat would be upset in the surf ; 
 and on one of these occasions a man had both his 
 legs bitten off by a shark, and was pulled out of the 
 water dead. Late at night, on October 26th, the 
 Biafra made her welcome appearance, and next 
 morning Captain Bales came to fetch all the pas- 
 sengers, and away we steamed — Westward ho ! 
 Next day we stopped at Addah, where a black 
 clerk, in charge of some store, sent off to say he 
 had twenty bags of rubber to ship, and wished the 
 steamer to wait for them. The captain replied that 
 he was going on in two hours, and that, if the rub- 
 ber was not sent off by that time, it would be left 
 behind. Three or four bags arrived during the 
 next hour and a half; then the siojnal-o-un was 
 fired, and preparations made for departure. This 
 brought off a catamaran, with a letter for the cap-
 
 296 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 tain, which he brought to the poop and read to 
 the passengers, as follows : — 
 
 "Captain Bales, E.N. 
 
 " Dear Sir, — Know thou that, to-morrow being Sunday, 
 they will not work at Accra ; therefore be patient, and 
 take my cargo. — Yrs. affectionately, 
 
 Pro & Co." 
 
 Needless to say, the captain w^as not patient, and 
 w^e were soon on our way to Accra. 
 
 After leaving Accra, w^e called at numerous small 
 ports all along the coast, picking up instalments 
 of cargo, with here and there a passenger. On 
 November 4th we steamed into Sierra Leone, and 
 w^ere boarded by numerous gaudily dressed black 
 women, with huge bags of kola-nuts, w^hich they 
 take to Gambia, w^here there is a great demand for 
 them. These women and their property crowded 
 up the decks and were a regular nuisance, and I 
 w^as very glad to see them go ashore at Bathurst, 
 on the Gambia, where we received several fresh 
 passengers. Among these was a gentleman who 
 had been in the service of one of the telegraph 
 companies, and who was so far gone with fever that 
 he did not live twenty-four hours. His death put 
 us in quarantine at Goree. Next day, soon after 
 leaving this place, he was buried at sea, just as the 
 lighthouse on Cape Verde w^as vanishing in the
 
 QUARANTINE. 297 
 
 distance astern. This was my last glimpse of 
 Africa, and I began anxiously to look out for the 
 Canary Islands as a welcome change. At Grand 
 Canary we only stopped a few hours and then pro- 
 ceeded. I was still feeling very sick and weak ; 
 and it was not until we reached Santa Cruz that I 
 began — lying in a comfortable deck-chair lent me 
 hj the captain, and watching the sun sink behind 
 the towering peak of Teneriffe — to think life worth 
 living after all, and to find that there were times 
 when one could, in the enjoyment of the present, 
 forget the hardships of the past. 
 
 Here three more passengers, a gentleman and 
 two ladies, came on board for Madeira. The cold 
 winds, which we met after leaving Teneriffe, were 
 delightfully refreshing to me, after nearly three 
 j^ears of hot weather, and the long Atlantic rollers 
 seemed like old friends. Two days brought us to 
 Madeira, where we arrived at night, and anchored 
 in Funchal Bay, to wait for dawn. Here we were 
 again quarantined, on account of a rumour of yel- 
 low fever at Teneriffe ; and the three passengers 
 from the latter place — who had left England only 
 six weeks before with the intention of spending 
 the winter between the Canary Islands and 
 Madeira — were told that they could only land in 
 the lazaretto, where they would have to remain 
 seven days, and be charged an exorbitant sum for 
 expenses — the authorities reserving the right to
 
 298 MY RETURN HOME. 
 
 send them off to England, if they saw fit, at the 
 end of that time, without allowing them to enter 
 the town at all. Under these circumstances, they 
 preferred remaining on board the Biafra and going 
 to England. After leaving Madeira, we were let 
 in for a regular north-west gale, and the Biafra, 
 being an old boat, built before the days of flat 
 bottoms and great beam, rolled tremendously. 
 
 On the mornincr of November 22d we entered 
 the Mersey. It was rather misty, and I could not 
 see the shore very plainly, and was straining my 
 eyes to make out the outlines of New Brighton, 
 when a very characteristic feature of English scen- 
 ery came suddenly and conspicuously into view. 
 Standing out in the water, supported on piles 
 evidently driven into a sand-bank, were two huge 
 ugly boards, from the face of which glared the 
 words, "Eat Germ Bread," and "Try Sunlight 
 Soap," in letters very nearly large enough to be 
 read across the Irish Channel. Inwardly confound- 
 ing mural advertisers and advertisements in gen- 
 eral, I made a vow never, if I could possibly help 
 it, either to eat Germ Bread or use Sunlight Soap. 
 
 Having landed at the Prince's Landiug-Place 
 and cleared the customs, I went off' in search of 
 Messrs Hutton & Co., the Liverpool agents of the 
 Congo Free State. Here I saw Mr Wise, who was 
 a great deal more obliging than the Vice-Governor 
 at Boma had been. By the help of the telegraph.
 
 AT LIVERPOOL. 299 
 
 he soon obtained me a remittance from Brussels ; 
 and his kindness did not end here, for, knowing I 
 wished to leave Liverpool as soon as possible, he 
 went out of his way to come up to my hotel in the 
 evening and bring me the money directly he got 
 an answer to his telegram, and did not leave me 
 till he had done all in his power to assist me. 
 
 I experienced a novel sensation w4ien, on landing 
 at Liverpool, I found none but white faces around 
 me, and met fair ladies in every street by the score, 
 of whom, during the past three years, I had per- 
 haps seen a dozen. Before evening I was com- 
 fortably established in the North-Western Hotel, 
 and dined there with Mr Herford, a fellow-pas- 
 senger, who had spent three years on the West 
 Coast. The fresh food, snowy table-cloths, and 
 good cooking, were especially enjoyable after the 
 tinned chop and tough goat of Africa, and the 
 scarcely less leathery beef of the Canaries. We 
 both agreed, as we drank to the girls of Old Eng- 
 land in a foaming pint of bitter ale, that no one 
 could properly enjoy a good dinner till he had been 
 to a country where good dinners were unattainable.
 
 300 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 TIPPOO TIP — HIS FIRST MEETING WITH LIVIXGSTONE — CAMERON VISITS 
 HIS CAilP ON THE LOMAMI — TRAVELS WITH STANLEY IN 1876 — HIS 
 DRESS AND APPEARANCE — DESERTS STANLEY AT VINYA NJARA — 
 HIS OWN ACCOUNT OF THIS TRANSACTION — RAIDS OF KAREMA AND 
 OTHERS NEAR STANLEY FALLS — TIPPOO ARRIVES AT THE FALLS IN 
 NOVEMBER 1884 — PALAVER WITH VAN G^LE — GOES TO ZANZIBAR 
 — DEANE ATTACKED— LOSS OF THE STATION — THE ARABS LEFT TO 
 THEIR OWN DEVICES FOR A WHOLE YEAR — TIPPOO RETURNS AS 
 GOVERNOR — HIS FEELINGS TOWARDS THE GERMANS — TERMS OF 
 HIS AGREEMENT WITH STANLEY — HE SEES THE WEAKNESS OF THE 
 CONGO STATE — ADVANTAGES OF THE ARABS — DISTRUST OF EURO- 
 PEANS — TIPPOO SETS TO WORK TO STRENGTHEN HIS POSITION AND 
 SUBDUE THE BAKUMU — THE ORIGINAL OBJECT OF THE STATE 
 DEFEATED — ARABS ON LAKE NYASSA — THE AFRICAN LAKES COM- 
 PANY — FUTILITY OF ATTEMPTING TO CONTROL AFRICAN OPERATIONS 
 FROM EUROPE — THE SORT OF MEN REQUIRED FOR CENTRAL AFRICA 
 — WHAT THE BAKUMU THINK OF DEANE. 
 
 Hamed BIX Mahomed bin Juma Borajib — for such 
 is the real name of the man who rejoices in the 
 various aliases of Tippooru, Mtipula, and Tipo- 
 Tipo, but is best known by the appellation of 
 Tippoo Tip — is the son of a Zanzibar iVrab by 
 a Mrima woman.
 
 LIVINGSTONE, CAMERON, AND TIPPOO. 301 
 
 He is first mentioned by Livingstone, wlio notes, 
 in his ' Last Journals,' that he met him at the 
 village of Poncia, near the south end of Lake Tan- 
 ganika, on July 29th, 1867. Livingstone speaks 
 of him as Tipo-Tipo, which he explains to mean 
 " the gatherer together of wealth," — a name adopt- 
 ed by Tippoo himself, after taking a great deal of 
 spoil in a fight with Nsama. 
 
 Livingstone travelled with Tippoo Tip, and two 
 or three other Arabs, to Kabwakwa in Kabwire, 
 where he left them in order to e'o to Lake Moero 
 with some of Tippoo's men, who were on their way 
 to Cazembe's to buy ivory. Later on, Livingstone 
 heard that Tippoo was setting up as a potentate in 
 Itawa, and demanding that all ivory should be 
 brought to him as his tribute. When Livingstone 
 again returned to the country south of Tanganika, 
 he found he could get no food, for Tippoo had been 
 raiding through the land, and had left the abomi- 
 nation of desolation in his rear. 
 
 Tippoo then evidently went west, for the next 
 news of him comes from Commander Cameron, who 
 met him at Nyangwe on the Lualaba, where Tippoo 
 arrived from a camp on the Lomami. Wishing to 
 reach a Lake Sankorra, of which he had heard, and 
 which has since turned out to be the Sankuru river, 
 Cameron left Nyangwe with Tippoo — at that time 
 one of the richest and most powerful of the Arabs 
 who roam this part of Africa — and accompanied
 
 302 THE BISMAECK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 him to his camj) on the Lomami. Cameron says 
 that he met with great kindness from Tippoo, and 
 that the only drawback to his enjoyment of the 
 comforts of the Arab camp was the " number of 
 slaves in chains who met his eyes at every turn." 
 As a chief named Kassongo would not allow 
 Cameron to pass through his country, he was 
 obliged to give up the idea of reaching Lake 
 Saukorra, and started off to complete his mem- 
 orable journey across Africa. 
 
 Tippoo is next heard of at Nyangwe, where 
 Stanley met him in October 1876, and described 
 him as having the appearance of an Arab gentleman 
 in very comfortable circumstances, with a fine, in- 
 telligent face, and a black beard. His account of 
 Tippoo's dress also bears out Cameron's statement 
 that the latter was the greatest dandy among the 
 Arab traders. But when I met Tippoo at Stanley 
 Falls in 1888, I was struck with the simplicity of 
 his dress, compared with that of the other Arabs 
 — a long white shirt, and the usual doti or waist- 
 cloth, being all he usually wore ; and I have heard 
 from Mr Jameson that, when on the march, he 
 would discard the long shirt, and, with only the 
 doti, stride on through the jungle at a pace which 
 Jameson — no mean walker — found it hard to keep 
 up. His beard was at this time thickly sprinkled 
 with grey hairs, and I should have put his age down 
 as about 50. His twitching, restless eyes, and his
 
 STANLEY AND TIPPOO. 303 
 
 dark complexion seem to have been noticed by 
 every one who has come in contact with him — also 
 his politeness and good -breeding. Jameson, in 
 describing his conduct to me, termed him a perfect 
 gentleman : this may be true enough, as far as 
 manners go, but hardly so when his actions are 
 viewed in other lio;hts. 
 
 Stanley having made arrangements with Tippoo 
 to accompany him, with 400 men, a distance of sixty 
 camps, for a consideration of 5000 dollars, they 
 started, in November 1876, on a march through 
 the forest of Uregga. Every step of the way had 
 to be cut through the dense undergrowth, and the 
 men were decimated by smallpox. Tippoo several 
 times tried to persuade Stanley to return, but in 
 vain ; and at length, on reaching Yinya Njara, re- 
 fused to accompany him any farther, though the 
 sixty camps had not been completed. 
 
 Stanley, in ' Through the Dark Continent,' says 
 that, feeling the courage of his escort was exhausted, 
 he consented to release Tippoo from his engage- 
 ment (on condition the latter used his influence to 
 induce the men lielonging to the expedition to fol- 
 low their leader into the unknown country), and 
 gave him the following present in payment for his 
 escort so far : a draft for 2600 dollars, one riding- 
 ass, one trunk, 30 doti cloth, 150 lb. beads, 16,300 
 shells, one revolver, 200 rounds ammunition, 50 lb. 
 brass wire, besides numerous presents to his chiefs
 
 304 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 and men. This clone, Stanley sailed off down the 
 Lualaba — December 25th, 1876 — on his way to the 
 Western Ocean. 
 
 Tippoo's own version of this parting — as told by 
 him to Mr Jameson, from whom I had it — is very 
 different. According to him, when they reached 
 the forest of Uregga, and travelling became diffi- 
 cult, the men belonging to Stanley's expedition 
 refused to proceed, and it w^as only through Tippoo's 
 influence and persuasions that they went on to 
 Vinya Njara. Here (to continue Tippoo's account) 
 the men mutinied, and insisted on turning back ; 
 whereupon Stanley came to Tippoo, and cursed him 
 up hill and down dale, till he went to the men, and 
 after some time, and with great difficulty, succeeded 
 in persuading them to follow Stanley to the sea. 
 The latter then again came to Tippoo, and told him 
 that if he reached the sea by going down that 
 river, and got safe to Europe, he would be a great 
 man, and would send him not only a large sum of 
 money, but also a double-barrelled rifle and ammu- 
 nition, besides various other presents. Having 
 made these promises, Stanley departed ; and from 
 that day to this, Tippoo avers he has never received 
 his dues. He also repeated to Jameson what he 
 had previously told Lieutenant Becker (as narrated 
 by the latter in his book, ' La Vie en Afrique '), 
 viz., that Stanley only made himself obeyed by 
 getting his men into dangerous situations, whence
 
 ARABS AT STANLEY FALLS. 305 
 
 tliey did not know liow to escape — entirely ignoring 
 the fact that Stanley himself went into danger as 
 well as his men, and it was he, and he alone, who 
 extricated them. 
 
 In 1881, Becker {^ La Vie en Afrique') mentions 
 him as having lived for ten years in Manyema, 
 w^here, though nominally subject to the Sultan of 
 Zanzibar, he enjoyed — as he still does — absolute 
 power. 
 
 Having seen Stanley disappear down the Lualaba, 
 Tippoo, after subjugating the country round Vinya 
 Njara, also began to descend the river, raiding as 
 he went, for ivory and slaves. Whether he himself 
 reached Stanley Falls on this occasion is not known, 
 but when Stanley returned, in 1883, to establish a 
 station at the Seventh Cataract, he found the Arab 
 Karema near the mouth of the Lomami, and 
 Tippoo's men in full power at the Falls. Here 
 was a dilemma : Stanley had been sent out by the 
 King of the Belgians to found stations and make 
 treaties with the natives in the name of the Inter- 
 national African Association, in order to establish 
 a Free State from which slavery should be rigidly 
 excluded ; and here he found himself forestalled 
 by the slavers themselves. Hoping to impress 
 them with the advantages of free trade and an 
 easy route to the coast, he took several of their 
 confidential slaves down the Congo with him ; but 
 the innate treachery of the Arab character balked 
 
 u
 
 306 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA, 
 
 all his good intentions. These slaves, having dis- 
 posed of the ivory they had brought down with 
 them, were sent back to Stanley Falls, and thence 
 to Tippoo Tip, and described to him — probably 
 with a great deal of exaggeration — the stores of 
 ivory possessed by the natives on the banks of the 
 Congo. This (combined with the reports of the 
 Zanzibaris in the service of the State, as to the 
 extent of its resources in arms and men) excited 
 the avarice of Tippoo Tip, who was fully alive to 
 the danger of his position, should civilisation get 
 the upper hand in Central Africa. Having obtained 
 forces from Said Barghash, and also, as he alleges, 
 power to act in the Sultan's name, he set out from 
 Zanzibar, and on arriving at Stanley Falls (No- 
 vember 14th, 1884), began to play the potentate 
 over Lieutenant Wester, who, knowing himself to 
 be powerless, quietly waited his opportunity. 
 Captain Van Gele, arriving at the cataracts shortly 
 after, held a long palaver, after which matters 
 assumed a more favourable aspect — but this did not 
 last long. Tippoo w^ent away to Zanzibar, and left 
 his brother Bwana Nzige as his dejDuty — Mr Deane 
 having by this time taken command of Falls 
 Station. The story of Mr Deane's heroic attempt 
 to put down slaving in this territory has already 
 been told. Had he been provided with a few more 
 rounds of ammunition, or had his men show^n a 
 little more pluck, he would probably have sue-
 
 CONTRADICTORY STATEMENTS. 307 
 
 ceeded ; for I afterwards heard Rascliid (the man 
 who commanded the Arabs in their attack on the 
 station) assert that he had not the least notion of 
 Deane's resources, and that, had the latter held out 
 only two days longer, the Arabs — who were becom- 
 ing disheartened — w^ould have given up the attack 
 and gone east. This statement of Raschid's looks 
 very strange when compared with another statement 
 of his — viz., that the Arabs came off very well in 
 the fight, only losing six men in all ; while, judging 
 from the reports of the Wenya and Bakumu to 
 whom I spoke on my visit to the Falls in 1888, 
 I should have put down the number at sixty or 
 seventy. 
 
 What were Tippoo's orders to his deputy, wdien 
 he left the Falls for Zanzibar, will probably never 
 be known ; but I should not be surprised to learn 
 that he left no definite orders at all, and went aw^ay 
 in the hope that some complication might arise 
 which would enable the white men to be disposed 
 of during his absence. 
 
 After Deane had been rescued by Captain 
 Coquilhat, and taken away to Europe, the Arabs 
 were for the best part of a year left to themselves. 
 Having no definite information as to the actual 
 power of the Free State, they were naturally at 
 first in a state of terror lest a large force of armed 
 steamers should ascend the river and annihilate 
 them. But as time went on, and the authorities
 
 308 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 at Boma and Brussels neglected to strike while the 
 iron was hot, they gained confidence ; and when at 
 last Tippoo appeared on the scene, coming up the 
 Congo in a steamer under the flagr of the Free 
 State, they were so strongly intrenched that they 
 considered themselves ready to meet any force, and 
 actually (not knowing he was in it) fired at the 
 canoe which w^as conveying Tippoo to the shore. 
 
 Meantime a special messenger had informed 
 Tippoo at Zanzibar of all that had happened at 
 Kinsi Katini, I have been told that, on hearing 
 hostilities had broken out, Tippoo w^ent to the 
 Sultan and asked his advice ; but that the Sultan 
 told him in reply to settle the business himself: 
 to fight, if he wished to fight ; if not, to negotiate 
 wdth the Powers in Europe. He was shut in on 
 the east coast by the Germans, of whom I after- 
 wards heard him complain that they had entered 
 the Sultan's territory, made secret treaties with 
 the native chiefs subject to him, and then claimed 
 the country as annexed by Germany, and forced 
 the Sultan to sign it away, — Great Britain looking 
 apathetically on while the Germans undermined 
 her interests.^ On the west his way was barred by 
 the Congo Free State, which, he thought, was not 
 as yet strong enough to hold its ow^n against him. 
 
 » Tippoo said something to this effect. I cannot give his exact 
 words, as he spoke in Kiswahili, and the man -wlio interpreted for me 
 could not speak very good English.
 
 NEGOTIATIONS BETWEEN STANLEY AND TIPPOO. 309 
 
 His chief grievance against the Germans was 
 the heavy tax they had put on his ivory, and he 
 had probably determined to try and get a new 
 route to the sea by going back with a large number 
 of men and plenty of ammunition to force his way 
 down the Congo, when Stanley arrived at Zanzibar 
 on his way to relieve Emin Pasha, and affairs took 
 an entirely different course. I have heard a report 
 — whether true or not, I do not know — that w^hen 
 Stanley first spoke to Tippoo at Zanzibar about 
 the settlement of the dispute at Stanley Falls, the 
 latter flew into a tremendous rage, and swore that 
 not a single man of the Emin Relief Expedition 
 should ever pass through his territory. Stanley's 
 usual diplomacy, however, overcame all difficulties, 
 and Tippoo finally signed a treaty by w^hich he 
 became Governor of the district of Stanley Falls 
 at a salary of £30 per month. One of the first 
 clauses in this treaty is intended to prevent the 
 tribes of the Aruhwimi and Upper Congo, as well 
 as the Arabs, from engaging in the slave-trade.^ 
 
 ^ This treaty is published in the Parliamentary Correspondence 
 for 1888 (Africa, No. 8), and the text of it is as follows : — 
 
 "Agreement. 
 
 "Mr Henry Morton Stanley, on behalf of his Majesty the King of 
 the Belgians and Sovereign of the Congo State, appoints Hamed-bin- 
 Mohammed al Marjebi, Tippu Tip, to be Wali of the independent 
 Stiite of the Congo, at Stanley Falls district, at a salary of £30 per 
 month, payable to his agent at Zanzibar, on the following con- 
 ditions : — 
 
 " 1. Tippu Tip is to hoist the flag of the Congo State at its sta-
 
 310 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 This clause he was certainly not carrying out when 
 I was at Stanley Falls in 1888, for I saw him one 
 day engaged in organising an expedition to attack 
 some tribe or tribes west of the Lomami, in order 
 to obtain their ivory. 
 
 Stanley, having completed his arrangements at 
 Zanzibar, went round the Cape to the mouth of the 
 Congo, taking with him Tippoo and his retinue, 
 among whom, by the by, w\as the priest mentioned 
 on a former occasion — for Tippoo is a devout Mo- 
 hammedan, and carries the sword in one hand and 
 the Koran in the other. Being entertained at 
 
 tion near Stanley Falls, and to maintain the authority of the State 
 on the Congo and all its affluents at the said station downwards to 
 the Biyerre or Aruhwimi river, and to prevent the tribes thereon, 
 as well as Arabs and others, from engaging in the slave-trade. 
 
 " 2. Tippu Tip is to receive a resident officer of the Congo State, 
 who will act as his secretary in all his communications with the 
 Administrator-General. 
 
 " 3. Tippu Tip is to be at full liberty to carry on his legitimate 
 private trade in any direction, and to send his caravans to and from 
 any place he may desire. 
 
 " 4. Tippu Tip shall nominate a locum tenens, to whom, in case of 
 his temporary absence, his powers shall be delegated, and who, in 
 the event of his death, shall become his successor in the Waliship ; 
 but his Majesty the King of the Belgians shall have the power of 
 veto, should there be any serious objection to Tippu Tip's nominee. 
 
 "5. This arrangement shall only be binding so long as Tippu 
 Tip or his representative fulfils the conditions embodied in this 
 
 agreement. 
 
 (Signed) "Henry M, Stanley. 
 " Tippu Tip (in Arabic). 
 (Signed) "Fredc. Holmwood, 
 
 " Kanji Rajpar (in Hindi). 
 
 " Zanzibar, February 24, 1887."
 
 A HUNDRED TO ONE. 311 
 
 Boma, and then taken up past the Livingstone 
 Falls to Leopoldville, he was enabled to judge for 
 himself of the weak points of the Congo State, and 
 confirm with his own eyes the reports he had pre- 
 viously heard. What must he have thought of the 
 disorganised transport-service between Matadi and 
 Leopoldville, compared with the resources at his 
 command for bringing his stores inland from Zan- 
 zibar by means of enormous caravans of slaves ! 
 How reassured he must have felt, on arriving at 
 Leopoldville, to find that the State had only two 
 steamers there, one of them engineless, and to wit- 
 ness the reluctance of the missionaries to allow 
 Stanley the use of their boats ; while he could bring 
 thousands of men down from Kassongo and Nyang- 
 we in canoes, and pour them upon Stanley Falls, at 
 the rate of a hundred for every one the State could 
 bring up in their steamers. True, the State might 
 have better arms and better men than Tippoo's 
 horde of savages ; but numbers and power of en- 
 durance tell more than anything else in a contest 
 of this sort, and the Stanley Falls garrison could 
 soon have been starved out. But this was an ad- 
 vantage of which the Arabs were probably ignorant 
 until they went up the river from Banana. 
 
 Then came the long days on the river, travers- 
 ing the 500 odd miles that separated Leopoldville 
 from Bansjala, the distance to the latter isolated 
 spot seeming all the greater from the fact that the
 
 312 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 steamers, heavily loaded, and towing two whale- 
 boats each, took nearly three weeks to accomplish 
 the journey in place of the usual fortnight. Then 
 came another stretch of unoccupied country to the 
 Lomami, where the Arabs were found to have 
 strongly intrenched themselves; and then, when 
 Stanley Falls was reached, Tippoo Tip, the most 
 powerful of all the slave-raiding Arabs between the 
 Aruhwdmi and Tanganika, was established there as 
 governor, and the country round about left for a 
 whole year to the mercy of men whose only objects 
 in life are — like those of the Spaniards of old — the 
 amassing of wealth for themselves, and the spread- 
 ino; of their religion — a relio;ion of carnaoje, sensu- 
 ality, and lust. 
 
 Had Stanley been free to remain on the Congo, 
 and govern the district of Stanley Falls through 
 TijDpoo Tip, as Sir John Kirk for twenty years 
 governed the whole of East Africa through the Sul- 
 tan of Zanzibar ; or had some man with a strong 
 will and much experience of the Arab character 
 been sent with Tippoo as resident officer, at the 
 time of his first arrival at the Falls, — all might 
 have been well. 
 
 But left to himself for a whole year, without even 
 a letter to tell him why the European officer had 
 not arrived, TijDpoo naturally followed the prompt- 
 ings of his Arab instincts, and raided the country 
 right and left. The state of depopulation, on my
 
 UNACCOUNTABLE DELAY. 313 
 
 arrival in the spring of 1888, showed only too 
 plainly how he had fulfilled the terms of the 
 treaty. 
 
 Suspicion and distrust, which are part of every 
 Arab's nature, may also have had something to do 
 with this. As month after month passed, and, 
 though the expedition for the Falls was delayed 
 from various causes, no word was sent to Tippoo 
 to explain this delay, what was more natural than 
 for such a man to suspect that he was being led 
 into a trap, and that a great force was perhaps col- 
 lecting at Leopoldville, to ascend the Congo, and 
 drive him east of the cataracts ? Under these cir- 
 cumstances he would, of course, set to work at once 
 to strengthen his position, and get the upper hand 
 of the Bakumu, who, he knew, would immediately 
 rise against him, should Deane (who was at this 
 time on the Lower Congo) reappear at the head of 
 a large force. That Tippoo did distrust the Euro- 
 peans was pretty evident from the questions he 
 put about Stanley. He once asked me what Stan- 
 ley's object was in ascending the Aruhwimi ; and 
 on my replying that it was to relieve Emin Pasha, 
 he again asked whether he was going to found 
 stations and take the country, as he had done all 
 the way up the Congo. He seemed to me to have 
 a sort of suspicion that the relief of Emin was only 
 a blind, and that Stanley's real object was to ex- 
 tend the territory of the Congo Free State. This
 
 314 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 being so, I only wonder that he did not, months 
 before we started to relieve Major Barttelot, de- 
 scend the Congo with a large force of Manyema 
 cannibals, and sweep Bangala Station off the face 
 of the earth. 
 
 By the conditions under which Tippoo was left 
 at Stanley Falls, after his appointment as governor, 
 the flag of the Congo State was made to afford 
 protection to the oppressor, and the Lone Star 
 banner of freedom was dragged in the mire. 
 
 Newspapers and telegraphs being scarce on the 
 Upper Congo, I had heard little or nothing of wdiat 
 was taking place on the east coast ; but when, on 
 reaching Boma, I heard that the Germans and 
 English were blockading the Swahili coast, and that 
 hostilities had arisen between the African Lakes 
 Company and the Arabs, at the north end of Lake 
 Nyassa, Tippoo Tip's excessive eagerness to be paid 
 (not only by Major Barttelot, but by the traders to 
 whom he sold his ivory) in gunpowder^ recurred 
 very forcibly to my memory. I had several times 
 heard Tippoo Tip express his dislike to the Germans, 
 who, as he said, were driving him out of his country. 
 What more likely than that he should wish to send 
 this powder over to the Zanzibar Arabs, who are 
 fighting the Germans on the east coast ? Of what 
 use is a blockade on that coast, while Tippoo Tip 
 is Governor of Stanley Falls, and has the Congo 
 route open for bringing up arms and ammunition ?
 
 LAKE NYASSA AND STANLEY FALLS. 315 
 
 To make tlie blockade effective, the west coast must 
 be closed to tlie importation of arms as well as the 
 east ; and even this w^ould leave an opening for 
 them to reach the interior through the Portuguese 
 colonies — in spite of Portugal's ostensible approba- 
 tion of the blockade. 
 
 Mr Jameson, on his return from Kassongo, men- 
 tioned to me, among other matters, that Tippoo 
 Tip had eagerly questioned him about the country 
 round Lake Nyassa and Matabele-land (wdiich latter 
 place Jameson had visited), and asked if it would 
 be possible for him to conquer the country as he 
 had done Manyema. He also inquired with much 
 interest about the position and power of the Euro- 
 pean settlers in Nyassa-land, and asked what Power 
 claimed that part of Africa. 
 
 Affairs at the north end of Lake Nyassa are now 
 much in the same state as they were at Stanley 
 Falls when Deane went to take command. Let 
 those interested take heed that history does not, 
 in this instance, repeat itself, or in two or three 
 years' time we may find that the Arabs have 
 managed to get the upper hand, when they will 
 soon reduce the country to the same state of deso- 
 lation as now reigns round Stanley Falls. Should 
 the Lakes Company succeed in inflicting a crushing 
 defeat on the Arabs, and in keeping them down, 
 the victory will be gained, as the natives will then 
 see that they are strong enough to hold their own,
 
 316 THE BISMARCK OF CENTEAL AFRICA. 
 
 aucl will cast iu their lot witli tliem, and gradually 
 other tribes will be brought to see who is their best 
 friend. Until the natives see that the whites are 
 strong enough to oflfer a successful resistance to the 
 Arabs, they will not fight for them, for fear of the 
 vengeance of the latter, who will, when victorious,^ 
 slay scores of men belonging to the tribes who 
 assisted their enemies, burn their villages, and 
 carry ofi" the women and children into slavery. 
 The Arabs, once having got the upper hand, will 
 know how to keep it ; and the entire work of 
 Livingstone, and that of all the missionaries who 
 have so nobly carried it on after his death, will 
 be undone. 
 
 In a country like Africa, it is not possible, as it 
 is in England, to control afiairs from headquarters. 
 There is no telegraph or railway, and before orders 
 given out in a London ofiice can reach their desti- 
 nation, matters will have completely changed, and 
 all may be over, one way or another. Such was 
 the case at Stanley Falls : the orders, which would 
 have saved thousands of lives, only reached Cap- 
 tain Cocjuilhat on his return from the rescue of 
 Mr Deane. 
 
 All that could be done at the present crisis would 
 be to send out a man thoroughly acquainted with 
 the character of African natives, who should be 
 
 1 As at Stanley Falls, in 1886, when they cut off the heads of two 
 chiefs and fifty other men, for helping Deane.
 
 AFKICAN CAUTION. 3 1 / 
 
 well supplied witli men, arms, and ammunition. 
 But such a man would have to be unhampered by 
 orders from home, unless these were such as to 
 leave a wide margin for the exercise of his dis- 
 cretion. It would be next to impossible for an 
 entire stranger to the country to attempt to raise 
 and discipline regiments among the savage tribes of 
 Central Africa. The natives of Africa are thorough 
 Conservatives, and must be firmly convinced of the 
 good of any change before they can be persuaded 
 to adopt it. They yield to power, but to nothing 
 else ; and it is the exhibition of power that enables 
 the Arab to obtain such an ascendancy over them. 
 Show them that one power is good and another 
 bad, and they will desert the power which is seek- 
 ino; their extermination for that which is workina; 
 for their good. Such men as Emin Pasha and 
 Deane alone can do this. Such men will the poor 
 uneducated natives follow and fight for. To their 
 mind, might is right ; and seeing the Arabs every- 
 where victorious, they, powerless to hold their own, 
 yield doggedly to what they consider their inev- 
 itable fate, and are carried off into slavery. But 
 should a white man come among them powerful 
 enough to conquer their oppressors, what follows ? 
 Do not the Bakumu and AVenya still swear by the 
 name of Deane, though he was at last driven out 
 of the Falls ? What has followed in the case of 
 Emin Pasha ? Has he not, through nobly sticking
 
 318 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 to his post after the fall of Khartoum and the 
 death of General Gordon, saved a province larger 
 than Great Britain from the curse of slavery, and, 
 by the help of his native allies, held at bay the 
 Mahdist hordes who have laid waste the whole of 
 Upper Egypt ? 
 
 Had Deane, — the only man who has ever struck 
 a blow at the real root of the East Coast slave- 
 trade — who, when all alone in the centre of Africa, 
 more than five hundred miles from the nearest 
 station, calmly stood up for the natives, and told 
 their oppressors that he could not and would not 
 give up the poor wretches who had sought his pro- 
 tection — who, knowing that his only European 
 companion was too ill to remain with him, and 
 that he must be left alone, coolly informed a great 
 Arab chief that he was quite able to take care of 
 his own head — who, when his request for ammuni- 
 tion was ignored, and the promised reinforcements 
 not sent, bravely remained at his post, when he 
 would have been perfectly justified in consulting 
 his own safety (not having been supplied wdth the 
 means of defence), by evacuating the Falls Station, 
 and going down to Bangala, — had he been projjerly 
 suj^ported in the first instance, or even sent back — 
 as I am told he asked to be — with a sufficient force 
 to retake Stanley Falls, there is no doubt that the 
 whole of the Wenya and Bakumu would have 
 sided wdth him, and helped to drive back the
 
 WHAT HAS BEEN DONE. 319 
 
 Arabs ; and thriving villages would still stand on 
 the banks of the Aruhwimi, where now is utter 
 desolation. 
 
 The natives would fight in their own fashion, it 
 is true, but discipline would only be a work of 
 time, and they would soon come to learn of the 
 man who could lead them to victory. The Ba- 
 Ngala pirates, who so fiercely assailed Stanley on 
 his first descent of the Cono;o, are now beins; 
 drilled as soldiers by the authorities at Boma ; 
 but it was a long time before they could be in- 
 duced to enter the service of the State, and even 
 now, a man, to manage them properly, must have 
 lived a year or two in their country, and be one 
 whom they know and can trust. If this has been 
 done with the Ba-Ngala, why not with the Bak- 
 umu, who are a much finer, more industrious, and 
 more intellio'ent race of men ? 
 
 In the deep quiet of the glorious forest of Lukolela 
 are three cairns of stone, one of which covers the 
 remains of as brave a man as ever trod African soil. 
 Unhonoured, almost forgotten, as Deane's name is 
 in Europe, its memory is fresh and green among 
 the warriors of the Wenya and Bakumu. To these 
 poor superstitious natives he seemed to bear a 
 charmed life, and to be capable of accomplishing 
 almost anything. Their belief in him and his 
 promises remained firm and unshaken, though for 
 nearly two years they never saw a sign of him or
 
 320 THE BISMARCK OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 the help he had promised them ; and when I was 
 at Stanley Falls, they came to me in crowds to 
 ask whether we had come to drive out the Arabs, 
 and ofifer their help, inquiring if Deane was coming 
 up-river at the head of a conquering army to re- 
 establish them in the homes whence the Arabs had 
 mercilessly driven them. How could I explain to 
 these poor people why we were on friendly terms 
 with the Arabs ? The news of Deane's death was 
 a great shock to me, but I found it easier after- 
 wards to answer the questions of the Bakumu, by 
 telling them that the Great Good Spirit had taken 
 Deane away to fight in Mputu ; and it was a great 
 satisfaction to me to be able to keep up his reputa- 
 tion among his sable admirers by explaining that 
 it was not an Arab who had killed him, Ijut an 
 elephant. " Ah ! " replied the poor natives — " that 
 temho bad fetish ! "
 
 321 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 INDUCEMENTS TO SLAVE-RAIDS — EXTINCTION OF THE ELEPHANT — 
 IMPROVED TRANSPORT THE ONLY EFFECTUAL MEANS OF PUTTING 
 AN END TO THE SLAVE-TRADE — IVORY BOUGHT BY THE SANFORD 
 COMPANY AND THE CONGO STATE ON THE UPPER CONGO — BLACK 
 AND WHITE TUSKS — DIFFERENT ROUTES TO THE INTERIOR — THE 
 NILE BASIN — EAST COAST ROUTE — THE TANA RIVER — DIFFI- 
 CULTIES OF THE CONGO ROUTE — RAILWAY PAST THE LIVINGSTONE 
 CATARACTS — PROPOSED BULLOCK-ROAD — AFRICAN LAKES COMPANY 
 — PORTUGUESE CLAIMS — SHALL LIVINGSTONE'S WORK BE IN VAIN ? 
 
 One of the greatest inducements for the slave-raids 
 carried on by the Arabs in Central Africa is ivory, 
 which, on account of its high value, is the only 
 article which will at present pay for its transport 
 from such an inaccessible region. It has been 
 asserted that, when the poor elephant is exter- 
 minated, and not before, will slavery come to an 
 end. It is my belief that facility of transport to 
 the coast by means of railways and steamers will 
 do more, by making slave-caravans unprofitable, to 
 put down the curse of Africa, than the extinction 
 
 X
 
 322 CONCLUSION. 
 
 of all the elephants on the face of the earth. Slaves 
 are at present a necessity to the Aralj, if he is to 
 get his ivory to the coast cheaply enough to enable 
 him to reap the enormous profits dear to the Mos- 
 lem heart. But when steam has opened up a 
 cheaper means of transport, he will be compelled 
 to use it, as caravans of slaves could never com- 
 pete with even the roughest of pioneer railways in 
 carrying goods through a country where, at the 
 best of times, food is scarce. Besides this, they 
 would be able to sell their ivory on the spot — no 
 matter how far in the interior — at very nearly as 
 large a profit to themselves as if they took it to 
 the coast, and would thus be without the induce- 
 ment they now have to raise large caravans, and 
 conduct them over hundreds of miles of forest and 
 mountain. Were the interior of Africa as acces- 
 sible to the European trader as the interior of 
 India now is, the Arabs would soon be unable to 
 procure any ivory at all, except by fair trade, as 
 the natives would quickly dispose of all they pos- 
 sessed to the white man. The trading companies 
 who, in these days of keen competition, would 
 swarm up any new route, would soon exhaust the 
 present stock of dead ivory ; and the natives — 
 instead of, as at present, hiding their ivory round 
 their villages, or burying it under the floors of 
 their huts, to await a fit opportunity for trade — 
 would, when they had killed an elephant, convey
 
 IVORY-TRADE ON THE UPPER CONGO. 323 
 
 Ms tusks to tlie nearest trader, and get the highest 
 price obtainable for clean, white ivory ; and the 
 Arabs would find — after raidins; and burninor the 
 villages — that all their expenditure of labour and 
 gunpowder had been in vain. AVere Tippoo and 
 his Manyemas even now to descend the Congo, and 
 raid some of the villages below Upoto, I doubt if 
 he would get enough ivory to pay for his powder, 
 as these villages are visited every two or three 
 weeks by the trading steamers of the Sanford Com- 
 pany and the Dutch House, who buy up the ivory 
 as fast as the natives can procure it. I remember 
 that on one occasion, when the steamers were de- 
 layed at Stanley Pool, and did not go up-river for 
 some months, the natives of Mobeka and Ikolungu 
 brought their ivory down to the Sanford Station 
 at Bangala, and having exhausted the stock of 
 brass wire and other barter goods at that place, 
 proceeded to the Dutch factory at Lulanga. Find- 
 ing the muncUle in charge at that place also un- 
 able to meet the demand, they went on down to 
 Equator, where there was another station of the 
 Sanford Company. The African savage may be a 
 cantankerous individual, but he knows the advan- 
 tages of fair trade. 
 
 While at Bangala, I was for several months 
 running about in a steam-launch with an official 
 of the State, who was buying ivory ; and I saw 
 several tons of this beautiful substance purchased
 
 324 CONCLUSION. 
 
 from the natives and sent down the country by the 
 State, besides huge quantities on board the trading 
 steamers and in the factory stores. On our first 
 visit to any village, the ivory produced would be 
 black and dirty on the outside, as it had been lying 
 in the bush, or buried under a hut, for two or three 
 years ; but as time went on, and we still continued 
 to come and buy, the tusks brought for sale grew 
 lighter in colour, till, before I left the Upper Congo, 
 we were buying, among the rest, a number of per- 
 fectly white tusks, some of which still had unde- 
 cayed gristle and bits of flesh attached to them, 
 showing that they had been brought direct for 
 sale as soon as the elephant was killed, instead of 
 being kept lying in the villages. Had the Arabs 
 tried raiding these places just then, they would 
 have got very little for their trouble. 
 
 I shall therefore, by way of conclusion, devote 
 a few words to the consideration of the diflPerent 
 lines of communication between the coast and the 
 vast interior plateau of Africa, which are now in 
 course of being opened up. 
 
 Let us begin with the oldest, and perhaps the 
 most impracticable, of all these — the basin of the 
 Nile. For years past, the Soudan Arabs have 
 carried on a trade in ivory in the same way as is 
 now done by the Zanzibar Arabs — obtaining it by 
 means of raids, and conveying it to Khartoum, and 
 thence either to Cairo or Suakin, on the shoulders
 
 THE SUAKIN RAILWAY. 325 
 
 of slaves, or in sailing - boats which they haul 
 through the vast reed-beds of the Upper Nile — an 
 almost insuperable obstacle to the navigation of 
 this river by steamers. Some years ago an attempt 
 was made to lay a railway across the desert from 
 Suakin to Berber ; but this turned out a failure, 
 chiefly because the constructors of the line pro- 
 ceeded on the same principles as they would have 
 done in peaceful England, and laid down a line in 
 the ordinary way with wooden sleepers. This line 
 was easily torn up by the hostile Arabs, who no 
 doubt chuckled to themselves as they replenished 
 their camp-fires with the creosoted timber which 
 was to have carried the rails along which their 
 enemies would have poured troops and supplies 
 into the heart of the Mahdi's district. Had this 
 line been laid down on one of the new patent 
 systems, with some such contrivance as Hipkins's 
 stamped steel sleeper — which, when once laid down, 
 forms an almost continuous rail, whose sections 
 cannot easily be taken up by natives or Arabs — 
 we should probably have a very different tale to 
 tell. But even were this railway complete and in 
 working order, the obstacles to navigation on the 
 Upper Nile would throw this route entirely out of 
 competition ; and Emin Pasha, foreseeing this, has 
 always maintained that an open trade-route to the 
 east coast, or, as General Gordon suggested years 
 ago, to the Upper Congo, would be necessary to
 
 326 CONCLUSION. 
 
 enable him properly to develop the Equatorial 
 province of Egypt. 
 
 With regard to the East Coast route, the British 
 East African Association have a fairly good road 
 through their territory to Lake Victoria Nyanza 
 waiting to be developed. The Tana river is, ac- 
 cording to Denhardt, navigable for boats drawing 
 about one metre of water to a distance of thirty 
 days' journey from the coast. I do not know at how 
 many miles Denhardt reckons a day's journey, but 
 should think that this river could easily be made 
 navigable for lio;lit-drauo;ht steamers to within 200 
 miles of Lake Victoria, Here there is a sudden 
 rise ; but when the plateau above is reached, the 
 ground is level enough to lay down a railway as 
 far as the lake. It is true that food is scarce round 
 the head-waters of the Tana, but with good steamers 
 plying on that river, this would be a difficulty easily 
 overcome. Lake Victoria is large enough and deep 
 enough to be navigated by ironclads ; but the Nile 
 between that lake and the Albert Nyanza is one 
 series of cataracts and rapids, and another railway 
 of about 150 miles would be required to connect 
 the two. This would pass through the country of 
 Uganda, which is — or was until recent troubles — 
 the best developed and most civilised of all the 
 native states of Central Africa. 
 
 This would give Emin Pasha a much shorter road 
 to the coast than that via the Congo ; and Stanley's
 
 THE CONGO EAILWAY. 327 
 
 recent journey has shown that the dilticulties in 
 the way of opening up the latter line of communi- 
 cation would be much greater than in the case of 
 the East Coast route. To begin with, the Aruh- 
 wimi is impassable for steamers above Yambuya, 
 and this place is distant over 360 miles from Lake 
 Albert Nyanza. It would, moreover, obviously be 
 a more difficult task to lay a railway through the 
 dense forest described by Stanley as covering the 
 greater part of this region, than across the undu- 
 lating grass-covered uplands of Uganda and Un- 
 yoro, and the open plateau between Lake Victoria 
 and the head-waters of the Tana. 
 
 On the West Coast, a railway some 235 miles in 
 length has long been in contemplation — to run past 
 the Livingstone Falls on the Congo river, and tap 
 the vast resources of the great plain between Stan- 
 ley Pool and Stanley Falls. The surveys for this 
 railway have already been completed at a cost of 
 £80,000 ; and the latest strange news is that, in- 
 stead of proceeding with the construction of the 
 railway, the authorities are devoting their attention 
 to organising a system of transport by means of 
 bullock- waggons. Now a railw^ay of, say, three feet 
 gauge, heavy enough to carry all the traffic likely 
 to pass between Stanley Pool and the lower river 
 for the next ten or fifteen years, could be laid down 
 at a cost of about £2000 per mile — exclusive of 
 viaducts and bridges. Assuming the correctness
 
 328 CONCLUSION. 
 
 of Stanley's estimate of £450,000 for the yearlj- 
 revenue from the traffic over the line, this railway 
 would begin to pay at once, and, as soon as the 
 traffic exceeded its capacity, could be gradually 
 replaced by one of broader gauge and heavier 
 rail. 
 
 Under present circumstances, it would pay far 
 better to lay down a pioneer railway of much nar- 
 rower gauge than to make the proposed bullock- 
 road, especially as food for the bullocks would be 
 difficult to procure in the cataract regions of the 
 Congo, and domestic animals in that country only 
 keep in good health so long as they are not com- 
 pelled to work, and sicken and die when put to 
 hard labour for any length of time. Such a narrow- 
 ofausre line could (according to calculations from 
 data kindly furnished me by Mr Lord of Birming- 
 ham) be laid at the rate of about £600 per mile 
 (exclusive of bridges), and would certainly perform 
 the transport in a much more effective way than 
 the above-mentioned bullock-road. 
 
 The Lower Congo is easily navigable for ocean 
 steamers, and the railway past the Livingstone 
 Falls would open up over 1000 miles of water on 
 the main stream alone, besides some 6000 miles of 
 tributaries, navigable at all seasons for light-draught 
 steamers. In Chapter XI. of this work I have, 
 w^hen speaking of Stanley Falls, shown how the 
 seven cataracts could easily be surmounted, thus
 
 PROGRESS IN NYASSALAXD. 329 
 
 addino; at least 800 miles more of naviojable water 
 to the above. 
 
 But the greatest advance of all, in the direction 
 of opening up the interior of the continent, has 
 been made by the African Lakes Company, the pro- 
 moters of which, seeing, some years ago, that the 
 real cure for the slave-trade lay in the introduction 
 of legitimate commerce, formed this company, not 
 so much for profit as to assist the missionary socie- 
 ties, by encouraging a trade which would go a long- 
 way towards abolishing the curse of slavery in 
 Nyassaland. This company has launched steamers 
 on the lower Zambesi and Shire rivers, has con- 
 structed a road past the Murchison Falls on the 
 latter, and runs steamers from the upper end of 
 these falls to the northern extremity of Lake Nyassa. 
 Here a road was being constructed to Lake Tan- 
 ganika, and forty miles of it were already com- 
 pleted when the present troubles with the Arabs 
 began. "When railways replace the roads between 
 the lakes and past the Shire falls, this will be the 
 best route of all to the lake region of Africa ; but 
 at present, matters are somewhat at a standstill. 
 The Portuguese, having watched the Company 
 gradually overcoming all difficulties, and opening 
 up the country, have suddenly laid claim to the 
 whole of Nyassaland ; and the time has come when 
 the Lakes Company must either turn its attention 
 to organising itself into a commercial syndicate
 
 330 CONCLUSION. 
 
 powerful enough to hold its own against Portuguese 
 and Arabs alike, or entirely go to the wall, and see 
 the work on which it has spent thousands of pounds 
 undone. People in this country are not fond of 
 putting their money into anything which offers no 
 prospect of an immediate return ; but money, and 
 money alone, can now prevent the door which 
 Livingstone opened from being closed. It was 
 nearly shut for Upper Egypt, when General Gordon 
 died at Khartoum ; but Emin Pasha has nobly stood 
 at his post, and kept it open. It is nearly shut on 
 the Upper Congo, by the appointment of Tippoo Tip 
 as Governor of Stanley Falls. Is it also to be shut 
 on Lake Nyassa ? Have the weary years passed by 
 Livingstone in Africa been spent in vain ? Will it 
 have to be said of the richest nation in the world, 
 that she allowed Nyassaland to be lost out of sheer 
 apathy, and that Livingstone and Gordon worked 
 and died in vain ? Down the long vista of future 
 years, this work, for which so many noble lives have 
 been sacrificed, will go on, till Africa is ransomed 
 from the curse of slavery, and the natives learn 
 that not only beads and brass wire, but also the 
 blessing of freedom, has come to them from that 
 mysterious far-away Mputu which, ten years ago, 
 was nothing more to them than a dim, visionary, 
 unknown " Beyond." 
 
 jusqu'a la fin.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 A.B.M.U., 31, 70, 77, 283, 286. 
 
 Accra, 296. 
 
 Addah, 295. 
 
 Adjutant-birds, 183. 
 
 Admiiiistrateur - Gdneral, 28, 34. 
 See also Governor-General. 
 
 Africa, s.s., 293. 
 
 African Lakes Company, 315, 329. 
 
 A.I.A., steamer, 55, 69, 75, 102, 
 109 sq., 123, 128, 135, 142, 150, 
 151, 161, 167-171, 174, 179, 182, 
 184, 192, 199, 209, 211, 216, 2-35, 
 247, 261 sq., 269, 273-279. 
 
 Ainsworth, 289, 293. 
 
 Akoulas, 137. 
 
 Alcohol, use and abuse of, 61, 66, 
 67. 
 
 Amelot, 89. 
 
 Anaemia, 67. 
 
 Anderson, Captain, 56, 118, 130. 
 
 Antelopes, 73, 193. 
 
 Ants, act as scavengers, 157. 
 
 Antwerp, leave, 3. 
 
 Arabs, 88-91 — Deane comes in col- 
 lision with, 94 — reports of their 
 raids, 106 — our first sight of, 107 
 — attack us, 109 — skirmish with, 
 at Yaporo, 114-117 — Deane es- 
 capes from, 119-122 — their camj) 
 at the Lomami, 240, 276 — at Ya- 
 poro, 245 — at Yalasula, their re- 
 ports of a new lake, 248 — kill the 
 chief of Yarukombe, 249, 316 — at 
 Stanley Falls, 250-260, 305-308 
 — on board the A. I. A., 261 nq., 
 
 273 — their treatment of a native 
 village, 266, 267 — superior re- 
 sources of, 311, 312 — character 
 of, 313 — their action in Nyassa- 
 land, 314-316— their method of 
 carrying on the ivorj'-trade, 322 
 — Soudan, desti'oy Suakin-Berber 
 railway, 325 — on Lake Nyassa, 
 315, 329 — compared to Spaniards 
 of sixteenth century, 312. 
 
 Aruhwimi, 104, 221, 265 — camp on 
 the, 226-228— district, 236. 
 
 Association Internationale Af ricaine, 
 2.3. 
 
 Baert, Lieut., 100, 132, 135, 140, 
 141, 147, 149. 
 
 Bakumu, tribe near Stanley Falls, 
 108, 110, 111, 255, 317— song, 
 236 — dancing, 241 — their admira- 
 tion for Deane, 319, 320. 
 
 Bamu island, 52, 69, 129, 193. 
 
 Banana, 14-18, 293. 
 
 Ba-Ngala, 31, 79, 85, 100, 165, 201 
 —ferocity of, 203— drilled, 319. 
 
 Bangala Station, 31, 55, 78-85, 133, 
 197— leave, 280. 
 
 Bangweolo, Lake, 21, 22. 
 
 Banks, Mr, missionary, 207, 282. 
 
 Banza Manteka, 44, 285, 286. 
 
 Barttelot, Major, 214 — his camp on 
 the Aruhwimi, 224-228 — Stan- 
 ley's instructions to, 229 — not to 
 blame for the conduct of the Man- 
 yemas, 230 — Salim bin Mahomed
 
 332 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 anxious to pick a quarrel with, 
 231 — his oVjjection to the terms 
 demanded by the Manyemas, 232 
 — goes to Stanley Falls, 234 — 
 comes on board the A. I. A. at 
 Yalasula, 248 — at Kinsi Katini, 
 252, 255, 257— leaves for Yam- 
 buya with 400 carriers, 261 — his 
 palaver with Tippoo about the 
 loads, 269 — asks for assistance 
 in reducing the loads, 270 — pre- 
 pares to start, 271 — further diffi- 
 culty with the loads, 272 — part- 
 ing with, 273, 274 — Tippoo Tip's 
 directions to the Manyemas con- 
 cerning, 275 — news of his death, 
 282. 
 
 Baruti, 174. 
 
 Basoko, 137, 220. 
 
 Bathurst, 296. 
 
 Bats, used for food in S. Thome, 
 12, 13. 
 
 Baumann, 95. 
 
 Bayley, Captain, 129, 193, 209, 211, 
 277. 
 
 Becker, Lieutenant, quoted, 304, 
 305. 
 
 Belgians, King of the, 20, 164. 
 
 Belfjique, steamer, 16, 17, 39. 
 
 Berlin Conference, 28. 
 
 Biafrn, s.s., 294, 295. 
 
 Bihd, 7. 
 
 Binnie, 27, 89. 
 
 Bissao, 9. 
 
 Blood-brotherhood, 159, 178, 199. 
 
 Bokdle, 158, 161, 198. 
 
 Bokuti, 158, 161. 
 
 Bolama, 9. 
 
 Bolobo, 73, 186. 
 
 Boma, 24, 32, 34-37, 289-291. 
 
 Bondeh, village, 236. 
 
 Bonny, Mr, 268, 269, 272, 274, 278. 
 
 Book' Mbemba Point, 17, 33. 
 
 Boulanger, Mr, 282. 
 
 Bove, Captain, 47, 69. 
 
 Brazza, l3e, 24. 
 
 Brazzaville, 32, 53, 57. 
 
 British Congo Company, 38. 
 
 Bufialo, 193, 209. 
 
 Bullock-road, proposed, 327. 
 
 Bwana Nzige (Tippoo Tip's brother), 
 96, 97, 108, 234, 250. 
 
 Cameron, 22, 301, 302. 
 
 Camwood, 79, 154, 202. 
 
 Canary Islands, 297. 
 
 Cannibalism, 85, 86, 106, 165, 267. 
 
 Canoes, 239 — people living in, 106, 
 237, 240. 
 
 Cao (or Cam), Diego, 21. 
 
 Cape Verd Islands, 8, 9. 
 
 Capello and Ivens, 30. 
 
 Cartridges, 95, 103, 104. 
 
 Casement, 39. 
 
 Cataract region, 24, 26 — march 
 through, 41-47 — proposed railway 
 through, 52, 200, 327. 
 
 Cataracts of Stanley Falls, 252, 253. 
 
 Chambezi, 21. 
 
 Champagne-bottles, 63. 
 
 Charters, Mr, 95, 96. 
 
 Chibale hills, 21. 
 
 Cicatrisation, 85, 155, 238. 
 
 Chikwanga (or kwanga), 62, 63, 119. 
 
 Chills, 61. 
 
 Chioba island, 107, 262. 
 
 Chitambo's, 22. 
 
 Chofu (or Lukebu) river, 107, 111, 
 240, 249. 
 
 Chumbiri, 73. 
 
 Cintra, 5. 
 
 Clark, Mr, 286. 
 
 Climate, 49, 50, 64, 65. 
 
 Cocktails, 210. 
 
 Coinage, 296. 
 
 Congo State, founded (1882), 26— 
 its constitution, 29 — successive 
 governors of, 27, 28 — changes in 
 administration, 28. 
 
 Congo river, discovery of, 21 — • 
 Tuckey's expedition to explore, 
 ih. — theories as to the course of, 
 ih. — Livingstone discovers sources 
 of, ih. — Cameron reaches, 22 — 
 explored by Stanley, ib. — A. I. A. 
 formed t<j exj^loit, 23 — first 
 .steamers launched on, 24 — course 
 of, 29-32 — current of, 54 — scenery 
 of, 65 — canon of, 69 — winds in, 
 70 — thirst, ib. — Compagnie du, 
 200— railway, 327, 328. 
 
 Comite d 'Etudes du Hand Congo, 
 23. 
 
 Copal, 153. 
 
 Coquilhat, Captain, 38, 55, 66 — 
 arrives at Bangala, 78 — welcomed 
 by the natives, 79, 80 — Mata 
 Bwyki's affection for, 81 — station
 
 INDEX. 
 
 333 
 
 built by, 84 — receives orders to 
 take command at Stanley Falls, 
 97 — receives news of the loss 
 of Falls Station, 98, 99 — holds 
 a court-martial, 100 — recovers 
 stolen goods from the Ba-Ngala, 
 101— starts for Stanley Falls, 102 
 — restores people kidnapped by 
 the Ba-Xgala, 104 — his sufferings 
 on the journej-, 106, 107, 108, 118 
 — rescues Deane, 113 — wounded 
 at Yajxiro, 116 — invalided home, 
 123. 
 
 Crocodiles, 68, 143, 184, 185, 211, 
 256. 
 
 Cronstedt, Captain, 5. 
 
 Currie, Mr, missionarv, 7. 
 
 Cyclone, 144, 145. 
 
 Dancing, native, 75, 82, 241, 276. 
 
 Daumas, Beraud, et Cie, 38, 181. 
 
 Deane, Mr Walter, attacked by 
 Arabs, 88 — leaves Leopoldville to 
 take command at the Falls, 91 — 
 attacked near Monougiri Channel, 
 92 — returns to Leopoldville, ib. — 
 goes up again, 93 — attacked at 
 Mpeza, ih. — takes command of 
 Falls Station, 94 — asked for pro- 
 tection by a slave, 95 — refuses to 
 give her up, 96 — short of car- 
 tridges, 97, 103, 118— news of, 
 105 — found at Yarukombe, 113 
 — his story, 117-122 — goes home, 
 123 — camped on Bamu, 193 — 
 another meeting with, 209, 211 — 
 news of his death, 277 — his name 
 a solemn oath among the Bakumu, 
 317 — his conduct at Stanley Falls, 
 318 — attachment of the natives 
 to, 319, 320. 
 
 Delatte, Captain, 56, 69, 72, 75, 
 76. 
 
 Demeuse, Mr, 5, 11. 
 
 Devil's Caldron, 287. 
 
 Dhanis, Lieutenant, 69, 72, 74-76, 
 100, 168, 208. 
 
 Diaz, 11. 
 
 Diseases, 156. 
 
 Districts of Congo State, 29. 
 
 Dover Cliffs, 52, 194. 
 
 Drainage, natural, 155, 158. 
 
 Drums, 104 (footnote). 
 
 Dua (interpreter), 100, 104, 105, 
 
 138, 139, 168— (chief of Ikolungu), 
 
 151, 152. 
 Dualla island, 71, 188, 194. 
 Dubois, Lieutenant, 78, 82, 109, 
 
 118, 120. 
 Ducks, 183. 
 Dutch House, at Xshassa, 62, 277, 
 
 323. 
 
 Eczema, 282. 
 
 ?>ldie, Mr, missionary, 77, 96. 
 
 Elephants, 187, 321. 
 
 Emin Pasha, 173, 317, 318, 330— 
 relief expedition, 171, 172-177, 
 210, 213, 214, 309-312. See also 
 Aruhwimi, Barttelot, Tippoo Tip, 
 &c. 
 
 Empreza Xacional, steamship com- 
 pany, 6. 
 
 En Avant, steamer, 24, 55, 56, 180, 
 190. 
 
 Engineers, difficulties of, on the 
 Congo, 58. 
 
 Equator Station, 31, 77, 123, 131, 
 207, 282. 
 
 Etat Independaut du Congo, 28, 29. 
 
 Eycken, 93, 95. 
 
 Fabrello, 47, 69. 
 
 Fan-palms. See Hyphaene. 
 
 Fay, Mr, missionary, 7. 
 
 Fetish, 45, 196, 320. 
 
 Fevers, 43-51, 65, 66, 77, 179, 261. 
 
 Florida, steamer, 181, 211. 
 
 Flushing, 4. 
 
 French claims on Upper Congo, 
 132 — station, see Brazzaville — 
 mission, see Missions — coinage, 
 290 — factories, see Daumas, Ber- 
 aud, et Cie- 
 
 Funchal, 8, 297. 
 
 Funeral customs of Ba-Ngala, 80, 
 81. 
 
 Gambia, 296. 
 Ganchu, 186. 
 Gazelle, 194. 
 Germans, blockade of E. coast by, 
 
 314. 
 Glave, 180, 282. 
 Gobila, 186. 
 
 Goldsmid, Sir F., 26, 27. 
 Gordon, General, 27, 318, 330. 
 Gordon-Bennett river, 53.
 
 !34 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Goree, 296. 
 
 Governor- General of Congo State, 
 
 28, 291. 
 Grenfell, Mr, missionary, 96, 134. 
 Greshoff, 277, 278. 
 Gum-copal, 153. 
 Gun-room, sleeping-quarters in the, 
 
 83, 98. 
 
 Hakansson, 16. 
 
 Hamberg, Mr, 98. 
 
 Hamed bin Mahomed — see Tippoo 
 
 Tip. 
 Hanssens, Captain, 89. 
 Harou, 25. 
 Hatt<jn & Cookson's factory at 
 
 Boma, 38, 329. 
 Head-hunting, 203, 204. 
 Henry Reed, s.s., 55, 122, 141, 174 
 
 sq. — asked for by Stanley, 175. 
 Hens, Mr, 5, 283. 
 Heron, steamer, 17, 33. 
 Heuse, 5, 8. 
 Hippopotami, 74, 130, 131, 142, 
 
 182, 183, 256. 
 Hodister, 200, 206. 
 Holland, steamer, 277, 279. 
 Hoste, Mr, missionary, 283. 
 Houssas, 99, 113, 119, 182— missing, 
 
 148 sq. — ransomed from Upoto, 
 
 159, 163, 178. 
 Hyphsene palm, 71, 187, 209. 
 
 Ibanza, chief of Mpeza, 155. 
 
 Iboke, village on Ngala, 137. 
 
 Iboko, 31, 165, &c. See Bangala 
 Station. 
 
 Ikolungu, 103 — defences of, 150 — 
 Dua, chief of, 151, 152. 
 
 India-rubber, 153. 
 
 Ingham, Mr, missionary, 285, 286. 
 
 International Association of the 
 Congo, 23, 28. 
 
 Irebu, 113. 
 
 Isangila, 24, 32. 
 
 Italian expedition, 47, 78, 82. 
 
 Itimbiri, or Loika, 175, 177. 
 
 Ivory, 136, 235, 321-324 — orna- 
 ments of Bakumu, 238 — trade, 
 321-324. 
 
 Jacos, or grey parrots, 183. 
 Jameson, Mr J. S., 214, 232, 254, 
 257, 260, 261, 304, 315— reduces 
 
 loads of Expedition, 269, 270— 
 his illness and death, 284, 285. 
 
 Jansseus, Mr, 28, 291. 
 
 Jephson, Mr, 173, 174. 
 
 ' Joyce,' 188. 
 
 Junker, Dr, his explorations, 31. 
 
 Kajumba, 89. 
 
 Kallina Point, 32, 53, 69. 
 
 Karema, 89, 305. 
 
 Kassai (or Kwa), 25, 31, 69, 186— 
 
 St Paul du, 187. 
 Kassongo, 229 — drummers, 241. 
 Katanga, 23, 30. 
 Katembo, 105. 
 Keys, 209. 
 
 Kimpopo, 32, 52, 69, 118, 130. 
 Kinsi Katini, 106, 219, 252. See 
 
 also Stanley Falls. 
 Kirk, Sir John, 312. 
 Kissanga, 34. 
 Kotonou, 294, 295. 
 Krupp guns at Bangala, 84, 101 — 
 
 at Stanley Falls, 118, 251. 
 Kwamouth, 31, 72, 130. 
 
 Lake between Lomami and Congo, 
 
 248. 
 Landslip, 248. 
 
 Langa-Langa, 149, 155, 160,178,198. 
 Lanji, Lake, 30, 
 Lawson river, 31, 
 Ledeganck, 28, 291, 293, 
 Lemarinel, 128, 129, 294. 
 Leopold\-ille (Ntamo), 25, 32, 44. 
 
 55 sq., 60, 117, 180, 192, 28-3. 
 Leopold II., King, 20, 59, 164. 
 Lisbfjn, 5, 6, 7. 
 Lissa market, 71, 190. 
 Livingstone, 22, 301. 
 Loanda, 293. 
 
 Loika, 175, 177. See Itimbiri. 
 Lomami, 107, 239, 240, 248, 276, 
 Long Island, See Bamu, 
 Lualaba, 21, 22, 
 Luapula, 21, 29, 
 Lukebu, See Chofu, 
 Lukolela, 31, 77, 194-196, 212, 282, 
 
 319, 
 Lukungu, 44, 46, 285, 
 Lulanga, 124, 323. 
 Lulangi, 158. 
 Lusengi, chief of Mobeka, 136, 167, 
 
 199.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 335 
 
 Lusengo, 164. 
 
 Lutete, 47, 60, 66, 183. 
 
 Luvwa, 29. 
 
 Mabengu, or Mense mountain, 52. 
 
 Mablasia, 217-219. 
 
 Madeira. 7, 297. 
 
 Mahomed Tenne, 99, 100, 102. 
 
 Makoko, 24. 
 
 Malafu, 79. 
 
 Malaria, 50. 
 
 Malarial poisoning, 65. 
 
 Maloney, Mr, chief of Matadi, 39. 
 
 Mankula, 137. 
 
 Manyanga, 24, 32. 
 
 Manyema child wounded, 260. 
 
 Manyemas, 222, 230, 232, 271. 
 
 Mark Twain, his Mississippi pilot, 73. 
 
 Massanga, 79 — drinking customs, 
 164-166. 
 
 Mata Bwvki, king of Iboko, 79-81, 
 151. 
 
 Matadi, 38, 287. 
 
 Matebba island, 33. 
 
 McKittrick, Mr, missionary, 123. 
 
 Mendonge, 142. 
 
 Mense, Dr, 48, 123. 
 
 Jlethodist Mission, 32. 
 
 Mfwa, 53. 
 
 Mii^sionaries : Mr Fay, 7 — Mr Currie, 
 ib. — Mr Swan, 8 — Mr Scott, ih. — 
 Bishop Taylor, 37, 130— Mr Ed- 
 die, 77, 96— Mr Greufell, 96, 134 
 —Mr Charters, 96— Mr McKit- 
 trick, 123— Mr Banks, 207, 282— 
 Mr l{ichards (Lukolela), 208— Mr 
 Darby, i7j. — Mr Hoste, 283 — 
 Mr Ingham, 285, 286— Mr Clark, 
 286 — Mr (and Mrs) Richards 
 (Banza Manteka), ih. 
 
 Missions, American Baptist (A.B. 
 M.U.), 31, 42, 77, 96, 283, 286— 
 Baptist (English), 31, 32, 47, 183, 
 195, 208,287— Livingstone Inland, 
 42, 123. 207, 282— Methodist, 32, 
 130— Roman Catholic (French), 
 31, 38, 72, 187— (Belgian), 72. 
 
 Miyongo, 212. 
 
 Mobeka, 135, 198— chief of. See 
 Lusengi. 
 
 Moero, 21, 30. 
 
 Mohrya, Lake, 137. 
 
 Mokulu, 236. 
 
 Monongiri Channel, 91. 
 
 Mpallaballa Station, 42, 60, 66, 286. 
 Mpeza, on the Congo, 93, 154, 194 
 
 — slaves bought at, 196 — on 
 
 Ngala, 137. 
 Mpozo, 286. 
 Mputu, village on Ngala river, 138 
 
 — " the Countrj- Beyond," 330. 
 Mswata, 25, 71. 
 Mtipula. See Tippoo Tip. 
 Mutembo, 217. 
 
 Mwafa, native name of Captain 
 Coquilhat, 79. 
 
 Ngalyema, 24, 61 — his cow, 179, 
 180. 
 
 Ngala river, 132-141. 
 
 Ngiri, 134. 
 
 Ngombe, 135. 
 
 Nimpsch, Baron, 55, 61. 
 
 Nozo, 41. 
 
 Nshassa, 32, 52, 62, 129, 181. 
 
 Ntamo, 24, 25, 32, 56. See Leopold- 
 ville. Burning of, 61 — cataract, 
 52, 53. 
 
 Nyangwe, 22, 30, 236. 
 
 Nyassa, Lake, 315, 329 — land claim- 
 ed by Portuguese, 329. 
 
 Nzige. See Bwana Nzige. 
 
 One Palm Point, 190. 
 
 Orchilla-weed, 153. 
 
 Orera, 105, 106. 
 
 Oubangi, 31, 132-134, 190, 282. 
 
 Owls at Upoto, 160. 
 
 " Palm-oil ruffians," 36, 37, 292. 
 
 Palm-tree cut, 151. 
 
 Palms, 71, 187, 201, 209, 221. 
 
 Palmyra Bay, 192. 
 
 Peace, steamer, 95, 174, 177. 
 
 Pechuel-Loesche, Dr, 25, 26. 
 
 "Plenty big bird," 11. 
 
 Ponta da Lenha, 34. 
 
 Porpoises, 33. 
 
 Portuguese claims on West Coast, 
 
 21 — in Nyassaland, 329. 
 Portuguese settlements in Africa, 9. 
 Principe (Prince's Island), 10. 
 Pururu island, 71, 187, 210, 211. 
 
 Quarantine, 297, 298. 
 
 Railway, company formed to con- 
 struct, 200, 327, 328 — Suakiu-
 
 336 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Berber, 325 — proposed, to Lake 
 
 Victoria, 326. 
 Raphia. See Palms. 
 Rapids on Ngala, 139 — at Upoto, 
 
 154 — on Aruhwimi, 224 — atStan- 
 
 lej- Falls, 252. 
 Raschid, Tippoo Tip's nephew, 240- 
 
 245, 264. 
 Richards, Mr, missionary at Lu- 
 
 kolela, 208 — at Banza Manteka, 
 
 286. 
 Roget, Mr, 5. 
 
 Jioi des Bcbjcs, steamer, 181. 
 Rothkirch, Baron, 38, 41, 43, 210. 
 Royal, steamer, 24, 56, 59. 
 Rubunga, 154. 
 
 S. Antonio, 8. 
 
 S. Thom(5, island, 11-13. 
 
 St Vincent, 8. 
 
 Saibis, 141. 
 
 Said Barghash, 91, 308. 
 
 Salim bin Mahomed, 229-231, 234, 
 273— bin Soudi, 259, 275. 
 
 Samba, 110-112, 124-127, 158, 161, 
 202. 
 
 Sanatorium at Boma, 34. 
 
 Sand-crabs, 17, 18. 
 
 Sanford Exploring Expedition, 31, 
 32, 129, 180, 212, 282. 
 
 Santiago, 9. 
 
 Schwerin, Baron, 78, 82. 
 
 Scott, Mr, missionary, 7. 
 
 " Sennene," 255. 
 
 Shagerstrom, Captain, 5, 9, 38, 41, 
 43, 44, 109, 174, 210, 267, 271- 
 273. 
 
 Shire river, 329. 
 
 Sierra Leone, 296. 
 
 Slave-raids, 106, 107, 221, 222, 231- 
 234, 236, 301, 305, &c. 
 
 Socic^te d'Alger (French Mission), 
 31, 72. 
 
 Societe du St Esprit (French Mis- 
 sion), 31, 72. 
 
 Stanley, references to, 19, 22, 27, 
 49, 124, 153, 172, 175-177, 217, 
 228, 229— Falls, 27, 30, 108, 252 
 —Pool, 24, 48, 52, 129, 193, 194. 
 
 Stanley, steamer, 56, 57-59, 68, 69, 
 78, 82, 87, 93, 97, 98, 147, 174, 
 179, 192, 210, 212, 214, 232, 235, 
 267, 268, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 
 276, 277. 
 
 Steamers. See A. I. A., Stanley, 
 Peace, Henry Reed, En Avant, &c. 
 
 Stein, Baron, 5. 
 
 Stella Bank, 15. 
 
 Stimulants. See Alcohol. 
 
 Strauch, General, 28. 
 
 Swan, Mr, missionary, 7. 
 
 Swedes. See Anderson, Sliager- 
 strom, Cronstedt, &c. 
 
 Swinburne, Mr, 129. 
 
 " Tamba-Tamba," 222. 
 
 Tana river, 326. 
 
 Taylor, Bishop, missionary, 37, 130. 
 
 Teetotallers, mistakes of, 66, 67. 
 
 Thys, Captain, 199. 
 
 Timber, valuable, 154. 
 
 Tippoo Tip, 90 — palaver with Cap- 
 tain Van Gole, 91 — leaves for 
 Zanzibar, 95, 306 — ixews of his 
 apijointmeut as Governor of Stan- 
 ley Falls, 172 — officers sent to 
 assist, 210, 213 — fails to procure 
 carriers, 214— treachery of, 229 — 
 his extra demands, 233 — mistake 
 made in his appointment, 244, 
 255 — arrives at Kiusi Katini, 257 
 — my first meeting with, 258 — 
 keeping his accounts, 259 — takes 
 passage in the A. I. A., 261 — raids 
 an island in the Aruhwimi, 266, 
 267 — insists oia his men having 
 half-loads, 269 — musters caravan, 
 271 — sends his people to Kinsi 
 Katini in the A. I. A., 273 — his 
 orders to the Manyemas about 
 Major Barttelot, 275 — his origin, 
 300— notices of, 301, 302— meets 
 Stanley at Nyangwe, 302 — de- 
 clines to accompanj' him, 303 — 
 his own account of tlie matter, 
 304 — descends tiie Congo, 305 — 
 obtains forces from the Sultan of 
 Zanzibar, 306 — arrives at Stanley 
 Falls, ib. — his conference with 
 the Sultan, 308 — his feelings to- 
 wards the Germans, ib., 309 — 
 makes a treaty with Stanley, 309 
 — a devout Mohammedan, 310 — 
 sees weakness of Congo State, 311 
 — suspects motives of wliite men, 
 313 — asks Jameson about Nyassa- 
 land, 315. 
 
 " Tooc-a-Tooc-a," 223.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 337 
 
 Tornadoes, 143, 144. 
 
 Treaty between Stanley and Tippoo 
 
 Tip, 309, 310. 
 Troup, Mr J. Rose, 39, 174, 179, 
 
 225, 230, 268, 277. 
 Tuckey's expedition, 21. 
 Two Palm Point, 73, 209. 
 
 Ulf, Mr, 39. 
 
 Umaneh, 236. 
 
 Underhill, mission station, 287. 
 
 Upoto, 103, 149, 158-160, 178, 198- 
 
 200, 212— burning of, 205. 
 Usindi, 212. 
 
 Van Gcle, Captain, 91, 92, 97, 122, 
 123, 134, 190. 
 
 Van de Velde, Captain, 210, 212. 
 
 Van Kerc?--hoven, Lieutenant, arrives 
 at Bangala, 147 — his expedition 
 to the Langa-Langa, 150 — negoti- 
 ations with the natives, 158-160 — 
 attacked by the people of Upoto, 
 161 — his reasons for ransoming 
 the Houssas, 163 — makes another 
 attempt to come to terms with the 
 Langa-Langa, 198, 199 — burns 
 Upoto, 202-205 — buys slaves at 
 Mpeza, 206 — starts for Yambuya, 
 216 — f)ther references, 167, 169, 
 170, 178, 182, 197, 224, 257. 
 
 Verhee.s, Mr, 147, 200. 
 
 Villc dc Bruzellcs, steamer, 181. 
 
 Vivi, 24, 27, 28, 32, 39, 40. 
 
 Wabika, 135. 
 
 AValker, Mr, 68. 
 Wampomo, 192. 
 Wana Rusari, 27, 89, 109, 250. See 
 
 also Kinsi Katini and Stanley 
 
 Falls. 
 War-drums, 104, 219. 
 War-paint, 202. 
 Ward, Mr Herbert, 47, 174, 179 
 
 213-215, 279, 283, 285, 288, 289. 
 Water-dance, 276. 
 Wi'lle-Makua, 31, 132, 190. 
 Wenva, 111, 252, 255, 317. 
 Wester, Lieutenant, 89, 91, 92. 
 Winds, 69, 70. 
 Winton, Sir F. de, 27. 36. 
 Wolf, Dr, 47. 
 Wood-worms, 120. 
 
 Yakusu, 249. 
 
 Yalasula, 248. 
 
 Yambinga, 124. 
 
 Yambunga, 104, 
 
 Yambuya, 224 sqq., 267-274. 
 
 Yambumba, 222, 236, 265, 266, 
 
 Yangambi, 246, 248, 261. 
 
 Yaporo, 107, 111, 114-116, 245, 264. 
 
 Yariembi, 249, 264. 
 
 Yarukombe, 107, 112, 113, 121, 249 
 
 —chief of, 122, 249, 316. 
 Yatakusu, 249, 264. 
 Yatuka, 107, 249. 
 
 Zambesi, 329. 
 
 Zanzibar, Tippoo Tip at, 90. 95. 308 
 Zanzibaris, 46, 61, 62, 69, 102, 131, 
 142, 207, 214, 216, 231 
 
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 " One of the most humorous and valuable of the general articles on Art is Mr Wyke 
 Bayliss' ' Story of a Dado.' " — The Standard. 
 
 MISS SOPHIA BEALE. 
 
 The Churches of Paris from Clovis to Charles X., with numerous 
 Illustrations. Crown Svo, 7s. 6(1. 
 
 OONTKNTS:— Xotrc Dime; Notro Dame des Champs; Notre Dame de Loretto; 
 Notre Dame de.s Victoires; Uencvi6vo; Val de Grace; Sto. CUapcllo; St Martin; St 
 Martin des Champs ; Etienue du Mont; Eustaohe; (Jormain I'Auxerrois ; Germain des 
 Prfes; Oorvais; .Tulien ; Jacques; Leu; Laurent; Merci; Nicolas; Paul; Eoch; 
 Severiu; V. dePaul; Madeleine: Elizabeth; Sorbonne; Invalidea. 
 
 "An interesting study of the historical, archwological, and legendary associations 
 which belong to the principal churches of Paris." — Times. 
 
 "A comprehensive work, as readable as it is instructive. The literary treatment is 
 elabor.ite, and the il!ust.'atio«is are numerous and attractive." — Globe. 
 
 " For the more serious-minded type of visitor who is capable of concerning himself 
 in the treasures of art and store of traditions they conti»in, Miss Beale has prepared 
 her book on the Churches of Paris. It \i more than an ordinary guide-book, for it 
 mingles personal opinion and comment with curious information drawn from the old 
 and new authorities on the history and contents of the more ancient and celebrated of 
 the Paris churches.'- tS'coA.'.'i/Min. 
 
 "A monument of historical research and judicious compilation is The Churches of 
 Paris from Clovis to Charles A'., by Sophia Beale (Alien and Co.). This valuable 
 work, copiously and gracefully illustrated by ihe autlior, is destined to serve ivs a 
 corapletc vade-mecum to those Britiwh visitors to the French capital who take a special 
 interest in ecclesiastical architecture and in the curious media:val lore connected with 
 several of the venerable Parisian fanes that have survived wars and sieges, revolutions 
 and spasms of urban ' improvement,' throughout from six to eight centuries." — Daily 
 Telegraph. 
 
 Any Bookseller al Home and Abroad.
 
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 MONSEIGNEUR BESS ON. 
 
 Frederick Francis Xavier de Merode, Minister and Almoner to Pius 
 IX. His Life anl Works. Translated by Lady Herbert. Crown 
 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 "The book is most intcrestiasj, not only to Cathoiics, but to all who care for 
 adventurous lives and also to historical inquirers. De Mercde'a cireer as an otticer of 
 the Bel;.?ian army, as a volunteer in AI:^jria with the French, and afterwards at the 
 Papal Court, is described with much spirit by Monsei<rneur Besson, and Bishop of 
 Nimcs, who is the author of the original work. The book, which is now translated, 
 was written with permission of tha present Pope, and is, of cours:», a work a^jreeable 
 to the authorities of the Vaticin, but at the same time its tone leaves nothinj,' to be 
 desired by those who are members of the communions." — Athenaium. 
 
 SIR GEORGE BIRDWOOD, M.D., K.C.T.E., &'c. 
 
 Report on the Old Records of the India Office, with Maps and 
 Illustrations. Royal 8vo, I2s. 6d. 
 
 " No one knows better than Sir (Jeorge Binlwood how to make ' a bare and short- 
 hand ' index of documents atlraclive. instructive and eutrrtaining, hy meai'.s of the 
 notes and elucidatory commonts which he supplies so liberally, and so pleasantly 
 withal, from his own inexhaustible stores of informitioii concerning the early relations 
 of India with Europe." — Times. 
 
 " The wonderful story (of the rise of the British Indian Empire) has never been 
 better told. ... A better piece of work is very rarely met with." — The Anli-Jiu-obin. 
 
 '■ Olfi i;il publications have not as a rule any genera.1 interest; but as there are 
 ' fagots and fagots' so there are reports and reports, and Sir Qe'jrf,'o Bird woo Ts Report 
 on the Old Records of the India Office is one of the most interesting that could bo read." 
 — Journal des Debats. 
 
 HENRY BLACKBURN, Editor of ''Academy Notes." 
 
 The Art of Illustration. A Popular Treatise on Drawing for the Press. 
 Description of the Processes, &c. Second edition. With 95 Illustra- 
 tions by Sir John Gilbert, R.A., H. S. Marks, R.A., G. D. 
 Leslie, R.A., Sir John Millais, R.A., Walter Crane, R. W. Mac- 
 beth, A.R.A., G. H. Boughton, A.R.A., H. Railton, Alfred East, 
 Hume Nisbet, and other well-known Artists. 7s. 6d. 
 
 .\ capital handbook for Students. 
 
 " We thorousfhly commend his book to all whom it may concern, and chiefly to the 
 proprietors of the popular journals and magazines whicl:, for cheapness rather than 
 for art's sake, employ any of the numerous processes which are now in vogue." — 
 Athenmuin. 
 
 "Let us conclude with one of the axioms in a fascinating volume : ' Be an artist 
 first, and an illustrator afterwards.' " — Spectator. 
 
 " ' The Art of Illustration ' is a brightly written account, by a man who has had 
 arge experience of the ways in which books and newspapers are illustrated nowadays. 
 ... As a collection of typical illustrations by artists of the day, Mr Blackburn's book 
 is very attractive." — The Times. 
 
 " Mr iJlackburn explains the processes— line, half-tone, and so forth— exemplifjing 
 each by the drawings of artists more or less skilled in the modern work of illustra- 
 tion. They are well chosen as a whole, to show the possibilities of process work in 
 trained hands." — Satuiday Review. 
 
 " Mr Blickburn's volume should be very welcome to artists, editors, and pub- 
 lishers." — The Artist. 
 
 " A most useful book." — Studio. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 oj Messrs W. H. Allen &= Co.'s Puhlicatio7is. 
 
 E. BONA VIA, M.D., Brigade- Surgeon, Indian Medical Service. 
 The Cultivated Oranges and Lemons of India and Ceylon. Demy 
 8vo, with oblong Atlas volume of Plates, 2 vols., 30s. 
 
 "The ainoimt of labour and research that Dr Boiiavia must have expended on these 
 volumes would Ije very difficult to estimate, and it is to be hoped that he will be 
 repaid, to some extent at least, by the recoguition of his work by those who are 
 interested in promotinjj the internal Industries of India." — Home News. 
 
 " Dr Bonavia seems to have so thoroughly exhausted research into the whjr and 
 wherefore of oranges and lemons, that there can be but little left for the most 
 enthusiastic admirer of this delicious fruit to find out about it. Plunging into Dr 
 Bonavia's pages we are at once astonished at the variety of bis subject and the wide 
 field there is for research in an everyday topic. Dr Bonavia has given a very full 
 appendix, in which may be found a few excellent recipes for confitures made from 
 oranges and lemons." — The Pioneer. 
 
 R. BRAITHWAITE, M.D., F.L.S., &^c. 
 The Sphagnacees, or Peat Mosses of Europe and North America. 
 Illustrated with 29 plates, coloured by hand, imp. 8vo, 25s. 
 "All mii&cologists will be delighted to hail the appearance of this im- 
 portant work . . . Never before has our native moss-flora been so carefully 
 figured and described, and that by an acknowledged authority on the subject. " 
 — Science Gossip. 
 
 " Mosses, perhaps, receive about as little attention from botanists as any 
 class of plants, and considering how admirably mosses lend themselves to the 
 collector's purposes, this is very remai'kable. Something may be due to the 
 minuteness of the size of many of the species, and something perhaps to the 
 difficulties inherent in the s.ystematic treatment of these plants ; but we fancy 
 the chief cause of comparative neglect with which they are treated is to be 
 sought in the want of a good illustrated English treatise upon them. In the 
 work which is now before us, Dr Braithwaite aims at placing the British 
 mosses on the same vantage-ground as the more favoured classes of the vege- 
 table kingdom ; and judging from the sample lately issued, he wUl succeed in 
 his endeavours." — Popular Science Revicio. 
 
 " TOM BOWLING." 
 Book of Knots (The). Illustrated by 172 Examples, showing the 
 manner of making every Knot, Tie, and Splice. By " Tom 
 Bowling." Third lulition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Edited by JAMES BURROWS. 
 
 Byron Birthday Book. i6mo, cloth, gilt edges, 2s. 6d. 
 A handsome boob. 
 B. CARRINGTON, M.D., F.R.S. 
 British Hepaticae. Containing Descriptions and Figures of the Native 
 Species of Jungermannia, Marchantia, and Anthoceros. With plates 
 coloured by hand. Imp. 8vo, Parts i to 4, all published per set, 15s. 
 S. WELLS WILLIAMS, LL.D., Professor of the Chinese Language 
 and Literature at Yale College. 
 China— The Middle Kingdom. A Survey of the Geography, Govern- 
 ment, Literature, Social Life, Arts, and History of the Chinese Empire 
 and its Inhabitants. Revised Edition, with 74 Illustrations and a 
 New Map of the Empire. 2 vols., demy Svo, 42s. 
 " The work now before ua is second to none in thoroughness, comprehensiveness, 
 and all the tokens of accuracy of which an 'outside barbarian ' can lake cognisance." 
 -A. P. Pkabody. 
 
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 SURGEON-MAJOR L. A. IVADDELL, M.B. 
 The Buddhism of Tibet. With its Mystic Cults, Symbolism, and 
 Mythology, and in its relation to Indian Buddhism, with over 200 
 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, 600 pp., 31s. 6d. 
 
 Synopsis ok Contents :— Introductory. Flistorical — Changes in rrimi- 
 tive Buddhism leading to Lamaism — Kise, Develoiimcnt, and Spread of 
 Lamaism— The Sects of Lamaism. Doctrinal — Metaphysical Sources of the 
 Doctrine — The Doctrine and its Morality — Scriptures and Literature. Mon- 
 astic—The Order of Lamas — Dail}' Life and Itoutine — Hierarchy and Kein- 
 carnate Lamas. Build irnjs — Alonasteries— Temples and Cathedral— Shrines 
 (and Relics and Pilgrims). Myth'ilofjy and Gods — Pantheon and Images — 
 Sacred Symbols and Charms. Ritual and Sorcery — "Worship and Eitual — 
 Astrology and Divination — Sorcery and Necromancy. Festivals and Plays — 
 Festivals and Holidays — Mysic Plays and Masquerades and Sacred Plays. 
 Popular Lamaishi — Domestic and Popular Lamaism. Appendices — Chrono- 
 logical Table— Bibliography — Index. 
 
 "By far the most imjiortant mass of original materials contributed to this 
 recondite study.'' — The Times. 
 
 "Dr Waddell deals with the whole suVjject in a most exhaustive manner, 
 and gives a clear insight into tlie structure, prominent features, and cults of 
 the system ; and to disentangle the early historj- of Lamaism from the chaotic 
 growth of fable which has invested it, most of the chief internal movements 
 of Lamaism are now for the first time presented in an intelligible and syste- 
 matic form. The work is a valuaVde addition to the long series that have 
 preceded it, and is enriched by numerous illustrations, mostly from originals 
 brought from Lhasa, and from photogiaphs by tlie author, while it is fully 
 indexed, and is provided with a chronological table and bibliography." — 
 Liverpool Coivrier. 
 
 " A book of exceptional interest." — Glasgow Herald. 
 
 "A learned and elaborate work, likely for some time to come to be a 
 source of reference to all who seek information about Lamaism. ... In 
 the appendix will be found a chronological table of Tibetan events, and a 
 bibliography of the best literature bearing on Lamaism. There is also an 
 excellent index, and the nutnerous illustrations are certainly oiie of the dis- 
 tinctive features of the book.''— AfornTOr/ Post. 
 
 "Cannot fail to arouse the liveliest interest. The author of this excel- 
 lently produced, handsomely illustrated volume of neaidy six hundred pages 
 has evidently spared no pains in prosecuting his studies. . . . The book 
 is one of exceptional value, and will attract all those readers who take an 
 interest in the old religions of the far East." — Publishers' Circular. 
 
 " The author is one of few Earopeans who have entered the territory of the (xrand 
 Lama, and ."spent several years in studying the actuaHties of Lamaism as explained by 
 Lamas. A Lamaist temple with its flttiogs was purchased, and the o£Beiatiu<j priests 
 explained in full det.ail the symbolism anl the rites as they proceeded. Oiher temples 
 and monasteries were visiteJ and Lamas employed for copying mannscripts, and 
 Kearchin;; for texts bearing upon the author's researches. Enjoying special lacilities 
 for peneirat!ni» tlic reserve of Tiljetan ritual, and obtainiug direct from Lhasa and 
 't'ashi-lhunpo most of the objects and explanatory material needed, much information 
 has been obtained on Lamaist theory and piactiee wiiich is altojfether new." 
 
 " The iaternal developments and movements of Lamaism are now for the flrr:t time 
 presented in an intelligible and systematic form. Details of the principal lite'^, mystic 
 and other deep-rooted demon worship and d;irk sorcery, the religious Plays and 
 Festivals, are given f idly." 
 
 With numerous illustrations from originals brought from Lhasa, 
 and from photographs by the author. 
 
 TY'r t/ie Reduced R7-ices apply to
 
 oj Messrs IV. H. Allen & Co.'s Publications. 
 
 M. C. COOKE, M.A., LL.D. 
 
 *»* For fuller noiices of Dr Cooke's works see under Scientific, pp. 29, 30. 
 
 The British Fungi : A Plain and Easy Account of. With Coloured 
 
 Plates of 40 S])ccies. Fifth Edition, Revised, crown 8vo, 6s. 
 Rust, Smut, Mildew, and Mould. An Introduction to the Study of 
 
 Microscopic Fungi. Illustrated with 269 Coloured Fiijures lay J. E. 
 
 Sowerby. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged, with Appendix of 
 
 New Species. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 Handbook of British Hepatics. Containing Descriptions and Figures 
 
 of the Indigenous Species of Marchantia, Jungermannia, Riccia, and 
 
 Anthoceros, illustrated. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 Our Reptiles and Batrachians. A Plain and Easy Account of the 
 
 Lizards, Snakes, Newts, Toads, FVogs, and Tortoises indigenous to 
 
 C.reat Britain. New and Ixevised Edition. With Original Coloured 
 
 Pictures of every species, and numerous woodcuts, crown Svo, 
 
 6s. 
 
 F. C. DAN VERS. 
 Report to the Secretary of State for India in Council on the 
 
 Portuguese Records relating to the East Indies, contained in 
 
 the Archivo da Torre de Tomljo, and the Public Lifiraries at Lislion 
 
 and Evora. Royal Svo, sewed, 6s. net. 
 
 REV. A. /. D. UORSEY, B.D., K.C., P.O.C. 
 Portuguese Discoveries, Dependencies, and Missions in Asia and 
 Africa, Vvith Maps. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 Contents. 
 
 Book III. — continued 
 Tiie Archbishop of Qoa. 
 'Vho. Synod of DiM,iupor. 
 The Triumph of Borne. 
 
 Book r. 
 Introductory. 
 
 The Portuguese in Europe and Asia. 
 Portu;^al and the Portuguese. 
 Portuguese Discoveries iu the Fifteenth 
 
 Century. 
 Portuguese Conquests of India in the 
 
 Sixteenth Century. 
 The Portuguese Empire in tlic Sixteenth 
 
 Century. 
 
 Book II. 
 The Portuguese Missions in Southern 
 
 India. 
 Early History of the Church in ludia. 
 First Meeting of the Portuguese with the 
 
 Syrians. 
 Pioneers of the Portuguese Missions. 
 The Rise of the .Jesuits. 
 The .Jesuits in Portugal. 
 St Francis Xavier's Mission in India. 
 Subsequent Missions in the Sixteenth 
 
 Century. 
 
 Book III. 
 The Subjugation of the Syrian Church. 
 Uouian Claim of Supremacy. 
 First Attempt, by the Franciscans. 
 Second Attempt, by the Jesuits. 
 The Struggle against Romo. 
 
 Book IV. 
 Subsequent Missions in Soutliern India, 
 
 with special reference to the Syrians. 
 Radiation of Mission of Qoa. 
 The Madura Mission, 
 Portuguese Missions in the Carnatic. 
 Syrian (^Jhristians in the Seventeenth 
 
 Century. 
 Syrian Christians in the Eighteenth 
 
 Century. 
 
 Book V. 
 The Portuguese Missions, with special 
 
 reference to Modern Missionary 
 
 efforts in South India. 
 The First Protestant Mission in South 
 
 India. 
 English Missions to the Syrians ISOfl-lf!. 
 English Missions and the Syrian 
 
 Christians. 
 The Oisrupli'.in and its Results. 
 Present .Stnte of the Syrian Christians. 
 The Revival of the Rouiish Missions in 
 
 India. 
 
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 C. L. EASTLAKE. 
 
 Notes on the Principal Pictures in the Royal Gallery at Venice. 
 Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 VERY REV. FREDERICK IV. EARRAR, D.D., E.R.S. 
 (Arc/ukacon of IVestminsto-). 
 
 Words of Truth and Wisdom, by Very Rev. Frederick W. Farrar, 
 D.D., F. R.S. Crown ovo, gilt top, 5s. 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Christian Statesmanship. 
 
 Legislative Duties. 
 
 The Use of Gifts and Oppor- 
 tunities. 
 
 The Brotherhood of Man. 
 
 Ener<,'y of Christian Service. 
 
 Christianity and the Human 
 Kace. 
 
 Christianity and Individual. 
 
 The Victories of Christianity. 
 
 TheChristian Remedyagainst 
 the Frailties of Life. 
 
 Prayer, the Antidote of 
 Sorrow. 
 
 The Monks. 
 
 The Early Franciscans. 
 
 The Ilcrniits. 
 
 The Missionaries. 
 
 The Martyrs. 
 
 Seneca. 
 
 Seneca and St Paul. 
 
 Gallio and St Paul. 
 
 Roman Society in the days 
 
 of St Paul. 
 Sanskrit. 
 
 Greek and Hebrew. 
 Aryan Migrations. 
 Words. 
 
 The Conquest over Temp- 
 tation. 
 Too Late. 
 
 The Souls of the Departed. 
 What Heaven is. 
 No Discharge in the War 
 
 against Sin. 
 The Dead which die in the 
 
 Lord. 
 The Resurrection of the 
 
 Dead. 
 The Blighted Lite. 
 Wisdom and Knowledge. 
 The Voice of History. 
 " In theological views he might be described as standing between the Evangelical 
 party and the Broad Church ; but his knowledge, coloured by a poetic temperament, 
 his superabundant fertility, and eloquent lu.vuriance of style, have gained for him a 
 unique position in the theological thought of the last twenty years." — Celebrities of the 
 Century. 
 
 GENERAL GORDON, C.B. 
 
 Events in the Taeping Rebellion, being Reprints of M.S.S. copied by 
 
 General Gordon, C. B., in his own handwriting; with Monograph, 
 
 Introduction, and Notes, by A. Egmont Hake, Author of " The Story 
 
 of Chinese Gordon." With Portrait and Map, demy 8vo, i8s. 
 
 " The publication of this volume completes what rcay be called the personal 
 
 narrative of General Gordon's eventful life told in his own words." — Mancliester 
 
 Guardian. 
 
 " There is no doubt that a wide circle of readers will like to read tha story in the 
 very words of the gallant leader of the ' Ever Victorious Army.' "—Daily Graphic. 
 
 A handy book of reference. 
 
 Companion to the Writing Desk ; or, IIow to Address, Begin, and 
 End Letters to Titled and Official Personages. Together with a 
 Tal)le of Precedence, copious List of Abbreviations, Rules for Com- 
 position and Punctuation, Instructions on Preparing for the Press, &c. 
 
 32mo, IS. 
 
 A useful manual which should be in every ofSce. 
 
 BARON CUVIER. 
 
 The Animal Kingdom, with considerable Additions by W. B. Carpenter, 
 M.D., F.R.S., and J. O. Westwood, F.L..S. New Edition, Illustrated 
 with 500 Engravings on Wood and 36 Coloured Plates, imp. Svo, 
 2IS. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allen 6^ Co.'s Publications. 
 
 M. GRIFFITH. 
 
 India's Princes, short Life Sketches of the Native Rulers of India, 
 with 47 full-page Illustrations. Demy 4to, gilt top, 2 is. 
 
 The contents are aviaogod iu the fo!lowin<( order: — The Pun'JAUb — H.H. The 
 Maharaja of Cashmere, H.H. The Maharaj i of Patiala, H.H. The Maharaja of Kapur- 
 thalla. B.4.rpuTAN-A— The Maharaja of Oiiidpur, The Mahar.aja of Jeypore, The Maha- 
 raja of Jodlipur, The Maharaja of Uwar, The Maharaja of Bhurlpar. Central India 
 —H.H. The Maharaja Hoik tr of Indoro, H.H. The Maharaja Scindia of GwaHor, H.H. 
 The Begum of Bhopal. Tub Biimuay Prestdency— H.H. The Gaikwar of Baroda, H. H. 
 The Rao of Cutch, H.H. The Baja of Kolhapur, H.H. The Nawab of Juarrghad. H.H. 
 The Thakore Sahib of Bhavnajrar, H.H. The Thakore Sahib of Dhan^adra, H.H. The 
 Thakora Sahib of Morvi, JI.H. The Thakore Sahib of Gondal. Southern India— H.H. 
 The Nizam of Hyderabad, H.H. Tha Mxharaja of Mysore, H.H. The Maharaja of 
 Travancore. ifec. 
 
 " A handsome volume, containing a series of pboiographic portraits and local views 
 with accompanying letterpress, giving biograpbical and political details, carefully com- 
 piled and attractively presented." — Times. 
 
 GEORGE GRESSWELL. 
 
 The Diseases and Disorders of the Ox. Second Edition, demy 8vo, 
 7.S. 6d. 
 "This is perhaps one of the best of the popular books on the subject which has 
 been published in recent years, and demonstrates in a most unmistakable manner 
 the great advance that has been made in Bovine and Ovine Pathology since the days 
 of Youatfc. ... To medical men who desire to know something of the disorders 
 of such an important animal — speaking hygienically — as the Ox, the work can be 
 recommended." — The, Lancet. 
 
 a. HAMILTON. 
 
 Hedaya or Guide, a Commentary on the Mussulman Laws. 
 
 Second Edition, with Preface and Index by S. G. Grady, 8vo, 35s. 
 
 The great Law-Book of India, and one of the most important monuments of Mussul- 
 man legislation in existence. 
 
 " \ work of very high authority in all Moslem countries. It discusses most of the 
 subjects mentioned in the Koran and Sonna." — Mill s Mohammedanism. 
 
 " A valuable work." — Allibone. 
 
 JOSEPH HA YDN. 
 
 Book of Dignities, containing lists of the Official Personages of the 
 British Empire, Civil, Diplomatic, Heraldic, Judicial, Ecclesiastical, 
 Municipal, Naval, and Military, from the Earliest Periods to the 
 Present Time, together with the Sovereigns and Rulers of the World 
 from the Foundation of their respective States ; the Orders of 
 Kniglithood of the United Kingdom and India, and numerous other 
 lists. Founded on P.eatson"s " Political Index " (1806). Remodelled 
 and brought down to 1851 by the late Joseph Haydn. Con- 
 tinued to the Present Time, with numerous additional lists, 
 and an Index to the entire Work, by Horace Ockerby, 
 Solicitor of the Supreme Court. Demy 8vo, 25s. 
 
 "The most complete official directory in existence, containing about 1,300 different 
 lists." — Tiinei. 
 
 " The value of such a book can hardly be overrated." — Saturday Review. 
 
 "A perfect monument of patient labour and research, and invaluable for many 
 purposes of reference." — Truth. 
 
 "This valuable work has cost its editor, Mr Horace Ockerby, a great deal of labour, 
 and does infinite credit to his research and industry." — World. 
 
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 Rev. H. R. HAWEIS, M.A., Author of " Music and Morals." 
 
 Sir Morell Mackenzie, Physician and Operator, a Memoir, compiled 
 and edited from Private Papers and Personal Reminiscences. New 
 Edition, with Portrait and copy of Autograph Letter from the Queen, 
 crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Familj' Tree. Private Practice. The Respite. 
 
 Surrounilinjjs. Leisure Hours. The Last Voyage. 
 
 Boyhood. The Emperor. Last Glimpses. 
 
 A Vocation. The German Doctors. The End. 
 
 The Throat Hospital. The Book. 
 
 " Mr Haweis writes not only fearlessly, but with remarkable freshness and vigour. 
 He is occasionally eloquent, and even pathetic. In all that he says we perceive a 
 transparent honesty and singleness of purpose." — Satnrdaj licmew. 
 
 " A deeply interesiinj; book, and one which challenges in a most striking and fear- 
 less manner the stern verdict which Sir llorell's own profession so jjenerally passed 
 upon his comluct before and after the death of his illustrious patient the Emperor. . . 
 The volume is full of absolutely interesting details, many among them new." — Daily 
 Telegrajjh. 
 
 HOIVARD HENS MAN, .Special Correspondent of the ''Pioneer'' 
 (Allahahad) and the " Daily News " {London). 
 
 The Afghan War, 1879-80. Being a complete Narrative of the Capture 
 of Caljul, the Siege of Sherpur, the Battle of Ahmed Khel, the March 
 to Candahar, and the defeat of Ayub Khan. With Maps, demy 8vo, 
 
 2 IS. 
 
 " Sir Frederick Roberts says of the letters here published in a tsollected form that 
 ' nothing could be more accurate or graphic' As to accuracy no one can be a more 
 competent judge than 8ir Frederick, and his testimony stamps the book before us as 
 conHtituting especially trustworthy material for history. Of much that he relates Mr 
 Honr;nian was an eye-wilness : of the rest he was informed by eye-witnesses immedi- 
 ately after the occurrence of the events recorded. There could, therefore, be little doubt 
 as to the faclr. mentioned. Creilibiiity might be concurrent with incorrect deductions, 
 but we are assured by Sir Frederick Roberts that Mr Hensmau's accuracy is complete 
 in all respects. Mr Uensman enjoye I singular advantages during the first part of the 
 war, for he was the only special correspondent who accompanied the force which 
 marched out of All Kbeyi in Sept<<mber 1870. One of the most interesting portions of 
 the book is that which describes the march of Sir Frederick Roberts f roin Cabal to 
 Candahar. The descriptioa of Vae Mai wand disaster is given with combined clearness, 
 simplicity, and power, and will be read with the ut'no;-^t Interest. Indeed, the book is 
 in every respect intereslicg and well written, and rcliects the greatest credit on the 
 author." — Alhenceum. 
 
 .SIR JOHN F. IV. HERSCHEL, Bart., A'.H, ^'c, Member of 
 the Institute of France, or-r. 
 
 Popular Lectures on Scientific Subjects. New Edition, crown 8vo, 
 
 6s. 
 " We arc reminded of the rapid projresi made by science within the last quarter of 
 a century by the publication of a new edition of Sir John Uerschel's Popular f^eclures 
 on Scientific .'Subjects. In 1861. spectrum analysis, as applied to the heavenly bodies, 
 was referred to as a possibility ; now it is not only a;i accomplished fact, but the 
 anal^'sis of the gnes contained in the sun has led to the discovery of one of thom, 
 helium, upon the earth. Some of the lectures, such as that on light, are practically 
 popular treatises on the particular subject to which they refer, and can be read with 
 advantage even by advanced students." — The Westminster Review. 
 
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 of Messrs W. H. Allen ^5^' CoJs Publicatiotis. 13 
 
 REV. T. P. HUGHES. 
 Dictionary of Islam. Being a Cyclopaedia of the Doctrines, Rites, 
 Ceremonies, and Customs, together with the Technical and Theological 
 Terms of the Muhammadan Religion. With numerous Illustrations, 
 royal 8vo, £2. 25. 
 " Such a work as this has long boon needed, and it would be hard to find any one 
 better qualified to prepare it than Mr Hughes. His ' Notes on Muhammadaniam,' of 
 which two editions bavo appeared, have proved decidedly usc-lul to students of Islam, 
 especially in India, and his lonj< fnaiiliarity with the tenets and customs of Moslems 
 has placed him in the best possiblo position for deciding what is necessary and what 
 superfluous in a ' Dictionary of Islam.' His usual method is to begin an article wiih 
 the text in the Koran i-elaiing to the subject, then to add the tradiiions bearing upon it, 
 and to conclude with the ooroments of the Mohammedan scholiasts and the criticisms 
 of Western scholars. Such a raethod, while involving an infinity of labour, produces 
 the best results in point of accuracy and comprehensiveness. The difficult task of 
 compiling a dictionary of so vast a subject as Islata, with its many sects, its saints, 
 khalifs, asce^xs, and dervishes, its festivals, ritual, and sacred places, the dress, 
 manners, and customs of its professors, its commentators, technical terms, science of 
 tradition and interproUition, its superstitions, magic, and astrology, its theoretical 
 doctrines and actual practices, has been accomplished with singular success ; and the 
 dictionary will have its place among the standard works of reference in every library 
 that professes to take account of the religion which governs the lives of forty millions 
 of the Queen's subjects. The articles on •Marriage," 'Women,' 'Wives,' 'Slavery,' 
 'Tradition,' 'Sufl,' 'Muhammad,' 'Da'wah' or Incantation, ' Burial,' and ''Jod,' are 
 especially admirable. Two articles deserve special notice. One is an elaborate account 
 of Arabic • Vv riting " by Dr Steiagass, which contains a vast quantity of useful matter, 
 and is well illustrated bj- woodcuts of the chief varieties of Arabic script. The other 
 article to which wo refer with special emphasis is Mr F. Pincott on ' Sikhi.sm.' There 
 is something on nearly every page of the dictionary that will interest and instruct tho 
 Btudents of Eastern religion, manners, and customs." — Athenceum. 
 
 Dictionary of JMuhamDiadaii Theology. 
 Notes on Muharamadanism, by Rev. T. P. Hughes. Third Edition, 
 revised and enlarged. Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 " Altogether an admirable little book. It combines two excellent qualities, abun- 
 dance of facts and lack of theories. . . . On every one of the numerous heads (over 
 fifty) into whic'n the book is divided, Mr Hughes furnishes a large a^nount of very 
 valuable information, which it would be exceedingly difUcult to collect from even a 
 largo library of works on the subject. The book might well be called a ' Dictionary of 
 Muhammadan Theology,' for wo know of no English work which combines a metliodical 
 arrangement (and consequently facility of reference) with fulness of information in so 
 high a degree aa the little volume before us." — The Academy. 
 
 '• It contains muHuin in parro, and is about tho best outlines of tho tenets of tho 
 Muslim faith which wo have seen. It has, moreover, the rare merit of being accurate; 
 and, although it contains a few passages which wo would gladly see expunged, it can- 
 not fail to bo useful to all Government employees who have to deal with Muhammadans ; 
 whilst to missionaries it will he invalual)le.'' — 2'lie Times of India. 
 
 " It in manifest throughout the work that we have before us the opinions of one 
 thoroughly conversant with the subject, and who is uttering no random notions. . . . 
 We strongly recommend 'Notes on Muhamraadanism.' Our clergy especially, even 
 though they are not missionaries, and have no intention of labouring amongst Muham- 
 madans, or consorting with them, ought to have at least as much knowledge of tho 
 system as can be most readily acquired, with a very little careful study, from this use- 
 ful treatise." — Tfie Kemrd. 
 
 .SIR IF. HUNTER. 
 
 Bengal MS. Records. A Selected List of Letters in the Board of 
 
 Revenue, Calcutta, 1782- 1807, with an Historical Dissertation and 
 
 Analytical Inde.x. 4 vols., demy 8vo, 30s. 
 A Statistical Account of Bengal. 20 vols. , demy 8vo, £(>. 
 
 Anv Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 14 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 J. HUNTER, late Hon. Sec. of the British Bee-keepers^ Association. 
 A Manual of Bee-keeping. Containing Practical Information for 
 Rational and Profitable Methods of Bee Management. Full Instruc- 
 tions on Stimulative Feeding, Lijjurianising and Queen-raising, with 
 descriptions of the American Comb Foundation, Sectional Supers, and 
 the best Hives and Apiarian Appliances on all Systems. Fourth 
 Edition, with Illustrations, crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 " Wc are indebted to Mr J. Hunter, Honorary Secretary of the British Bee-keepers' 
 Association. His Manual of Dee-keeping, just published, is full to the vcrj brim of 
 choice and practical hints fully up to the most advanced stivifes of Apiarian Science, 
 and its perusal has afforded us so much pleasure thatwc have drawn somewhat largely 
 from it for the benefit of our readers." — Bee-keepers' Magazine (New York). 
 
 " It is profusely illustrated with en^'ravingfs, whtch are almost always inserted for 
 their utility. . . . There is an old saying that ' easy writing is hard reading,' but we 
 will not say thus much of Mr Hunter's book, wJiich, taken as a whole, is perhaps the 
 most generally useful of an}' now published in this countrj-." — The Field. 
 
 MAJOR LEIGH HUNT, Madras Army, and ALEX. S. KENNY, 
 M.R. C.S.E., A.K. C, Senior Demonstrator of Attatonty at King's 
 College, London. 
 On Duty under a Tropical Sun. Being some Practical Suggestions 
 for the Maintenance of Ileallh and Bodily Comfort, and the Treatment 
 of Simple Diseases ; with remarks on Clothing and Equipment. 
 Second Edition, crown 8vo, 4s. 
 "This little book is devoted to the description and treatment of many tropical 
 diseases and minor emergencies, supplemented by some useful hints on diet, clothing, 
 and equipment foi- travellers in tropical climates. The issue of a third edition proves 
 that the book has hitherto been successful. On the whole we can commend the hints 
 which have been given for the treatnient of various diseases, but in some places much 
 has been left to the knowledge of the reader in the selection and application of a 
 remedy." — Scdttiah Geograjjhical Magazine. 
 
 " Is written more especially for the rougher sex, and is only less important than 
 Tropical Trials 'because it has had many more predecessors. It is now in a third edition, 
 and contains practical suggestions for the maintenance of health and bodily comfort, 
 as well as the treatment of simple diseases, with useful remarks on clothing and equip- 
 ment for the guidance of travellers abroad." — Daily Telegraph. 
 
 Tropical Trials. A Handbook for Women in the Tropics. Crown 8vo, 
 
 7s. 6d. 
 " Is a valuable handbook for women in the East, and, we are glad to see, now in its 
 second edition. It does not treat theoretically of the maladies incidental to Europeans 
 in hot climates, or go deeply into those matters which properly belong to the experi- 
 enced doctor, but it gives plain, wholesome advice on matters of health, which, were 
 it scrupulouslj' followed, it is not too much to say would add fifty per cent, to the 
 enjoyment of our countrywomen abroad. She could scarcely have a better guide as 
 to what to do and what not to do than this excellent handbook, which deserves to be 
 included in ever}' woman's foreign outfit." — Daily Telef/raph. 
 
 JOHN H. INGRAM. 
 The Haunted Hsmes and Family Traditions of Great Britain. 
 
 Illustrated. Ciown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 Epitomised in One Volume by R. O' BYRNE, F.R.G.S., arc. 
 James' Naval History. A Narrative of the Naval Battles, Single .Ship 
 Actions, Notable Sieges, and Dashing Cutting-out Expeditions, fought 
 in the days of Howe, Hood, Duncan, St Vincent, Eridport, Nelson, 
 Camperdown, Exmouth, Duckworth, and Sir Sydney Smith. Crown 
 8vo, 5$. 
 
 J^or the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allen &= Co.' s Publications. 15 
 
 MRS GRACE fOHNSON, Silver Medallist Cookery, Exhibition. 
 Anglo-Indian and Oriental Cookery. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 " Overflows with all sorts of delicious and economical recipes." — Pall Mall Biuhjct. 
 
 " Housewives and professors of the gentle art of cookerj' who deplore the dearth 
 of dainty dishes will find a veritable gold mine in Mrs Johnsons book."— PaH Mall 
 Gazette. 
 
 Appeals to us from a totally original standpoint. She has thoroughly and com- 
 pletely investigated native and Anglo-Indian cuisines, and brought away the very best 
 specimens of their art. Her pillau and kedgree are perfect, in our opinion ; curries 
 are scientificallj' classed and explained, and some of the daintiest recipes we have ever 
 seen are given, but the puddings particularly struck our fancy. Puddings as a rule 
 are so na>Tty ! The pudding that is nourishing is hideousl}' insipid, and of the smart 
 pudding it may truly be said that its warp is dyspepsia, and its woof indigestion. Mrs 
 Johnson's puddings are both good to taste and" pretty to look at, and the names of 
 some of her native dishes would brighten any menu. 
 
 H. G. R'EENE, CLE., B.C.S., M.R.A.S., &'c. 
 
 History of India. From the Earliest Times to the Present Day. For 
 the use of Students and Colleges. 2 vols, with Maps. Crown 8vo, 
 1 6s. 
 
 " The main merit of Mr Keene's performance lies in the fact that he ha.s assimilated 
 all the authorities, and has been careful to bring his book down to date. Ho has been 
 careful in research, and has availed himself of the most recent materials. He is well 
 known as the author of other works on Indian history, and his capacity for his self- 
 imposed task will not bo questioned. We must content ourselves with this brief testi- 
 mony to the labour and skill bestowed by him upon a subject of vast interest and 
 importance. Kxcolleut proportion is preserved in dealing with the various episodes, 
 and the style is clear and graphic. The volumes are supplied with many useful maps, 
 and the appendix include notes on Indian law and en recent books about India." — 
 Globe. 
 
 " Mr Keene has the admirable element of fairness in dealing with the succession of 
 great questions that pass over his pages, and he wisely devotes a full half of his work 
 to the present century. The appearance of such a book, and of every such book, upon 
 India is to be hailed at present. A fair-minded presentment of Indion history like that 
 contained in Mr Keene's two volumes is at this moment peculiarly welcome.'" — Times. 
 
 An Oriental Biographical Dictionary. Founded on Materials collected 
 
 by the late Thomas William Beale. New Edition, revised and 
 
 enlarged, royal 8vo, 2Ss. 
 
 " A complete biographical dictionary for a country like India, which in its long 
 
 history has produced a profusion of great men, would be a. vast undertaking. The 
 
 suggestion here made only indicates the line on which the dictionary, at some future 
 
 time, could be almost indefinitely extended, and rendered still more valuable as a work 
 
 of reference. Great care has evidently been taken to secure the accuracy of all that 
 
 has been included in the work, and that is of far more importance than mere bulk. 
 
 The dictionary can bo commended as trustworthy, and reflects much credit on Mr 
 
 Keene. Several interesting lists of rulers are given under the various founders of 
 
 dynasties." — India. 
 
 The Fall of the Moghul Empire. From the Death of Aurungzeb to 
 the Overthrow of the .Mahratla Power. A New Edition, with Correc- 
 tions and Additions, with Map, crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 This work fills up a blank between the ending of Elphinstonc's and the commence- 
 ment of Thornton's Histories. 
 
 Fifty-Seven. Some Account of the Administration of Indian Districts 
 during the Revolt of the Bengal Army. Demy 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Anj Bookseller at Ho vie and Abroad.
 
 1 6 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 DR TALBOTT, and others. 
 Keble College Sermons. Second Series, 1877-1888, crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 " To those who desire earnest, practical, and orthodox doctrine in the form of short 
 addresses, these scnnons will be most acceptable ; and their lofty tone, their elofiuent 
 wording, and the thorough manliness of their character, will commend them to a wide 
 circle of readers." — Momintj I'oat. 
 
 " Dr Talbot has a second time thoughtfully placed on public record some of the 
 lessons which were taught during his Wardenship in Sermoiis preached in the Chapel 
 0/ Keble College, Oxford, 1877-1868. The sermons are fresh and vigorous in tone, and 
 evidently come from preachers who were thoroughly in touch with their youthful 
 audience, and who generally with much acuteness and skill grappled with the 
 spiritual and intellectual difficulties besetting nowadays the University career." — 
 Church Times. 
 
 G. H. KINAHAN. 
 
 A Handy Book of Rock Names. Fcap. 8vo, 45. 
 
 "This will prove, we do not doubt, a verj' useful little book to all practical geo- 
 logists, and also to the reading student of rocks. When a difficulty is incurred as to 
 a species of deposit, it will soon vanish. Mr Kinahan's little book will soon make it 
 all clear. The work is divided into three parts. The first is a classified table of rocks, 
 the second part treats of the Inaenite rocks, and the third part deals with those rocks 
 which are styled Dcrioate. Dana's termination of ?/?« has been most generally used 
 by the author, but he has also given the He terminations for those that like them. 
 The book will be purchased, for it must be had, by everj' geologist ; and as its size is 
 small, it will form a convenient pocket companion for the man who works over field 
 and quarry." — Popular Science Revieic. 
 
 REV. F. G. LEE, D.D. {Vicar of All SaitUs' , Lambeth). 
 
 The Church under Queen Elizabeth. An Historical Sketch. By Rev. 
 Y. G. Lee, D.D. {Vicar of All Saints', Lambeth). Second Edition. 
 Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 " There is the same picturesqueness of detail, the same vigorous denunciation, the 
 same graphic power, which made the earlier book pleasant reading even to many who 
 disagree heartily with its tone and object. . . Dr Lee's strength lies in very graphic 
 description." — Notes and Queries. 
 
 " This is, in many ways, a remarkably fine book. That it is powerfully written no 
 one acquainted with Dr Lee's vigorous style would for a moment dispute." — Morning 
 Post. 
 
 " Presenting a painful picture of the degradation into which the Church had sunk 
 in Elizabeth's reign." — Daily Telegraph. 
 
 Sights and Shadows. Being Examples of the Supernatural. New 
 Edition. With a Preface addressed to the Critics. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 " This work will be especially interesting to students of the supernatural, and their 
 name is legion at the present moment. It deals v.ith more than one branch of what is 
 commonly known as si)iritualism. The introduction gives a brief resume of various 
 forms of magic and divination which have obtained credence in all ages, and later on 
 we find well-authenticated accounts of apparitions, supernatural warnings, hypnotic 
 experiments, and miracles of healing. Mr Lee evidently believes that ' there are more 
 things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in our philosophy,' and few sane people 
 will disagree with him, though tliey maj' not be inclined to accept all his opinions and 
 assertions as they stand." — Ladii. 
 
 " Here we have ghostly stories galore, which belie\ers in supernatural visitations 
 will welcome as upholders of the faitli that is in t'nem. Dr Lee is a hard hitter anc* a 
 viaorous controversialist, with a righteous contempt for your Darwins and Stuirt 
 Mills, and such like folk, and is not above suggesting that some of them have a decidsd 
 worship of the god Self. As for ' t'ne pompous jargon and silly cynicism which so 
 many public scribes .ag.ain and again make use of to throw diecredifc upon any phase of 
 the supernatural,' I have nothing to say. They can take care of themseivea. This 
 much I know, that ' Sights and Shadows ' gives one an eerie feeling as midnight 
 approaches and the fire flickers on the hearth." — Gentlewoman. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs IV. H. Allen a^ Co.'s Publications. 17 
 
 COL. G. B. MALLESON. 
 History of the French in India. From the Founding of Pondicherry 
 in 1674, to the Capture of that place in 1761. New and Revised 
 Edition, with Maps. Demy 8vo, i6s. 
 
 " Colonel Malleson has produced a volume alike attractive to the general reader and 
 valuable for its new matter to the special student. It is not too much to say that now, 
 for the first time, we are furnished with a faithful narrative of that portion of European 
 enterprise in India which turns upon the contest wagod by the East India Company 
 against French influence, and especially against Dupleix." — Edinburgh Review. 
 
 " It Is pleasant to contrast the work now before us with the writer's first bold plunge 
 into historical composition, which splashed every one within his reach. He swims now 
 with a steady stroke, and there is no fear of his sinking. With a keener insight into 
 human character, and a lar.crer understiinding of the sources of human action, he com- 
 bines all the power of animated recital which invested his earlier narratives with 
 popularity."— /•'o)-;n!;/.''</j' R<.'view. 
 
 " The author has had the advantage of consulting the French archives, and his 
 volume forms a useful supplement to Orme." — Atheiiceum. 
 
 Final French Struggles in India and on the Indian Seas. New 
 
 Edition. Crown bvo, 6s. 
 
 " How India escaped from the government of prefects and sub-prefects to fall under 
 that of commissioners and deputy-commissioners: why the Penal Code of Lord 
 Macaulay reigns supreme instead of a (.'ode Napoleon ; why we are not looking on 
 helplessly from Mahe, KarilMl, and Pondicherry, while the French are ruling all over 
 Madras, and spending millions of francs in attempting to cultivate the slopes of the 
 Neilgherries, may be learnt from this modest volume. Colonel Malleson is always 
 painstaking, and generally accurate ; his style is transparent, and he never loses sight 
 of the purpose with which he commenced to write." — Salviday Revifia. 
 
 "A book dealing with such a period of our history in the East, besides being 
 interesting, contains many lessons. It is written in a style that will be popular with 
 general readers."— v^t/ieHcwt/n. 
 
 " It strikes one as the best thing he has yet done. Searching, yet easy, his pen goes 
 with unflagging power through the military wonders of a hundred years, connecting 
 the accounts of battles by a sufficient historic thread." — Academy. 
 
 History of Afghanistan, from the Earliest Period to the Outbreak of the 
 War of 1878, with map, demy Svo, 1 8s. 
 '• The name of Colonel Malleson on the title-paije of any historical work in relation 
 to India or the neighbouring States is a satisfactory guarantee both for the accuracy 
 of the facts and the brilliancy of the n&rrative. The author may be complimented upon 
 having wintten a History of Afghanistan which is likely to become a work of standard 
 authority." — Scotsman. 
 
 The Battle-Fields of Germany, from the Outbreak of the Thirty Years" 
 
 War to tlic Battle of Blenheim, with maps and one plan, demy Svo, 
 
 1 6s. 
 
 " Colonel Malleson has shown a gra.=p of his subject, and a power of vivifying he 
 
 confused passages of battle, in whicli it would be impossible to name any living writer 
 
 as his equal. In imbuing these almost forgotten battle-fields with fresh interest and 
 
 reality for the English reader, he is re-opening one of the most important chapters of 
 
 European History, which no previous English writer has made so interesting and 
 
 instructive as he has succeeded in doing in this volume." — Academy. 
 
 Ambushes and Surprises, being a Description of some of the most 
 famous instances of the Leading into Ambush and the Surprises of 
 Armies, froin the time of Hannibal to the period of the Indian Mutiny, 
 with a portrait of General Lord Mark Ker, K.C.B., demy Svo, iSs. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 JAMES IRVJN LUPTON, F.K.C.V.S., aulhor of '' The Exlenial 
 Anatomy of the Horse, ^^ vjtc. 
 
 The Horse : as he Was, as he Is, and as he Ought to Be, with 
 illustrations. Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 " Written with a good object in view, namely, to create au interest in the important 
 subject of borse-breedinjr, more ftspfcially tbat class known as general utility horscB. 
 The book contains f^evertil illustrations, is well printed and handsomely bound, and we 
 hope will meet with the attention it deserves." — Liw Stack Journal. 
 
 T. MILLER MAGUIRE, M.A., LL.D. 
 American War — Campaigns in Virginia, 1861-2, wiili Maps. Roya 
 8v(:), juipcr covers, 3s. 6d. 
 
 MRS MANNING. 
 Ancient and Mediaeval India. Being the History, Relii^ion, Laws, 
 Caste, Manners and Customs, Language, Literature, I'oetry, I'liilo- 
 sophy, Astronomy, Algebra, Medicine, Architecture, Manufactures, 
 Commerce, &c., of the Hindus, taken from their Writings. With 
 Illustrations. 2 vols., demy Svo, 30s. 
 
 IRVING MONTAGU {late Special War Correspondent "-Illustrated 
 London News "). 
 Camp and Studio. Illustrated by the Author. New Edition. Crown 
 Svo, 6s. 
 
 " His animated pajjes and sketches have a more than ephemeral interest, and 
 present a moving picture of the romance and the misery of countries and populations 
 ravaged by i^reat opposing armies, and many a picturesque episode of pergonal ex- 
 periences ; he is pleasant and amusiug enough." — Daily iVeww. 
 
 " Mr Irving Montagu's narrative of his experiences as war artist of the Illustrated 
 London Newa during the Russo-Turkish war, though late in appearing, may be read 
 with interest. War correspondents and artists usually enjoy a fair share of adventure ; 
 but Mr Montagu appears to have revelled in dangers which seem anything but desir- 
 able when studied in cold blood. Mr Montagu has much that is interesting to tell 
 about the horrors of the siege of Kars and the prowess of the fair young Amazon who 
 commanded a troop of Bashi-Bazuks, and even seduced a Russian general to her side. 
 How he got to the front in spite of Russian prohibition, disguised as a camp follov/cr, 
 how his portmanteau was shelled a few inches behind his back, what he risked and 
 what he saw in the memoraV)le lines before Plevna, will be read with great interest. 
 The booii is well illustrated by many vigorous sketches, some of which are exceedingly 
 hx)xaoro\i3.''— Athenceum. 
 
 "A bright chatty record of wars, scenes, and adventures in various parts of the 
 world. ' — Echo. 
 
 Wanderings ' of a War Artist. Illustrated by the Author. New 
 Edition. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 " Mr ?»Iontagu is to be congratul.ited on an eminently readable book, which, both 
 in stvle and mutter, ia above the average of productions in this kind." — The Morning 
 Pot<t. 
 
 " This is an enchanting book. Equally as writer and as artist, Mr Irving Montagu 
 is a delightful companion. This beautiful and excpptionally interesting volume does 
 not by any means exhaust the literary and artistic achievements of the well-known 
 ' special ' of the IllvMraled London Tcic.v." — The Daily Neus. 
 
 " His own adventures are largely seasoned with stories of other people and anec- 
 dotes he picks up. He went through the second siege of Paris under the Commune, 
 and some of the best reading in the book is the picture he gives of the state of poor, 
 beautiful Paris, seen by the eye of an observing, impartial man, who has no object in 
 either exaggerating or under-colouring the work of the Commune." — The Spectator. 
 
 " The adventures of Mr Montagu are narrated with humour, and are seldom dull 
 reading.' — Glasgow Herald . 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. AUeii 6^ Co.'s Publications. 19 
 
 /. MORRIS, Author of " The War in Rorea," &'c., thirteen years 
 resident in Tokio under the Japanese Board of IVorhs. 
 
 Advance Japan. A Nation Thoroughly in Earnest. With over 100 
 Illustralions by R. Isayama, and of photographs lent by the Japanese 
 Legation. 8vo, 12s. 6d. 
 
 " llr Morris evidently knows the country well, and is a strong believer in its 
 future ; his Ijook will be found a useful sunnnary of recent history, abounding in good 
 character sketches, accompanied with photographs, of the leading men." — Times. 
 
 " Is really a remarliably complete account of the land, the people, and the institu- 
 tions of Japan, with chapters that deal with matters of such living interest as its 
 growing industries and armaments, and the origin, incidents, and probable outcome 
 of the war with China. The volume is illustrated by a Japanese artist of repute ; it 
 has a number of useful statistical appendices, and it is dedicated to His Majesty the 
 Mikado." — Scotsman. 
 
 " Mr Morris, who writes, of course, with thorough local knowledge, gives a very 
 complete and eminently readable account of the country, its government, people, and 
 resource. . . The work, which contains a large number of portraits and other illustra- 
 tions, is decidedly ' on the nail,' and may be recommended not only as a book to read, 
 but as of value for reference." — Westminster Gazette. 
 
 " Puts before us a clear view of the point which has been reached. His work is 
 historical, social, and descriptive ; we see in it the Japanese of to-day as he really is. 
 Mr Morris has also something to say on the JapaTiese at home— how he eats, how he 
 dresses, and how he comports himself ; while wider issues are discussed in the chapters 
 treating of the administration of the islands, their ports, communications, trades, and 
 armaments." — Olobe. 
 
 " A well-proportioned sketch of the Japanese of to-day, so recent as to include the 
 results of the war. . . There is much else I should like to quote in this able and 
 interesting book. It has a good chapter on natural history, and an excellent chapter 
 on diet, dress, and manners ; it gives just enough of Japanese histori' to help the 
 ordinary reader who wants to learn his Japan on easy terms ; it has also most useful 
 and attractively convejed information in its brief account of the principal cities of 
 Japan, communications and armament, language and literature, mines and minerals." 
 — (Jxieea. 
 
 ' ' He summarises clearl.v, concisely, the existing knowledge on the Japanese Parlia- 
 mentary system, territorial and administrative divisions, natural history, domestic 
 and national customs, dynastic changes, old feudal institutions, town populations, 
 industries, mineral and other natural resources, railways, armaments, the press, and 
 other subjects too many for enumeration. Even the chapter on language and litera- 
 ture makes an appalling subject interesting. . . . Mr Slorris has brought his very use- 
 ful account of Japan up-to-date. He gives a good summary of the recent war with 
 China, and then proceeds to make some well-considered suggestions on a matter of 
 supreme importance to Europe no less than to the two Empires of the Far East." 
 
 CHARLE.S MARVIN. 
 
 The Region of the Eternal Fire. An Account of a Journey to the 
 Caspian Region in 18S3. New Edition. With I\Iaps and Ilhistra- 
 tions. Crown 8vo, handsomely bound, 6s. 
 
 "The leading authoritj' of the English Press on the Central Asian Question is 
 Charles Marvin, a man of iron industry, who has wielded his comprehensive knowledge 
 of the region in such a manner as to render eminent service to his country."— O^iniort 
 of Arminius Vamhery. 
 
 "Charles Marvin's services in respect of the UuBSO-Afghan Question have been 
 invaluable. He has heard with his own ears the opinions exi)res9cd on the subject by 
 KuBsian generals and diplomatists, and, for the love of England, has sjient his own 
 money to warn England's people."— Opi/tia« of Coloriel ilallenon, " The liusso-Afghan 
 Question," p. 55. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad
 
 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 JV. O'CONNOR MORRIS. 
 
 Great Commanders of Modern Times, and the Campaign of 1815. 
 
 Turenne — Marlborougli — Frederick the Circat — Napoleon — Welling- 
 ton — Moltke. With Illustrations and Plans. Royal 8vo, 21s. 
 
 " ilr Morris certainly brings to his task vast reading and exhaustive research." — 
 Athen(vu^n. 
 
 " We gladlj' welcome this handsome volume by Judge O'Connor Morris, which gives 
 evidence on every page of careful reading and correct judgment. . . . An admirable 
 book to place in the hands of any student who wishes to get some idea of the liistory 
 of the art of war." — Academy. 
 
 " To the students of war this boolc will prove of the utmost interest and the greatest 
 possible service." — Xatwial Observer. 
 
 " Writes vividly and witiW."— Times. 
 
 CA RDINA L NE ! VMAN. 
 
 Miscellanies from the Oxford Sermons of John Henry Newman, 
 D. D. Crown 8vo, gill top, 5s. 
 
 " All the resources of a master of English style — except, perhaps one, description — 
 were at his command ; pure diction, clear arrangement, irony, dignity, a copious 
 command of words, combined with a reserve in the use of them— all these cjualities 
 went to make up the charm of Newman's style, the finest flower that the earlier system 
 of a purely classical education has produced." — Athenceum. 
 
 "The pieces presented to us here are carefully chosen, and answer the purpose of 
 the present volume. The selections which are contained in it happily avoid any of 
 these passages which have been the grounds of controversy. As a general rule we are 
 able to take in the teachings of this bools without any arriire-penace, without any 
 feeling that we have here the germ of those theories which estrange their author from 
 us." — Athenceum. 
 
 COL. F. A. WHINYATES, late R.H. A., formerly commanding 
 the Battery. 
 
 Military Regiments— From Corunna to Sevastopol, the History of 
 "C" Battery, "A" Brigade, late "C" Troop, Royal Horse 
 Artillery, with succession of Officers from its formation to the present 
 time. With 3 Maps, demy 8vo, 14s. 
 
 EDWARD NEWMAN, F.Z.S. 
 British Butterflies. With many Illustrations. Super royal 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 DEPUTY SURGEON-GENERAL C. T. PASKE, late of the Bengal 
 Army, and Edited by F. G. AFLALO. 
 
 Life and Travel in Lovyer Burmah, with Frontispiece. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 " In dealing witli life in Burujah we arc given a pleasant insight into Eastern life ; 
 and to those interested in India and our other Eastern possessions, the opinions Mr 
 Paske offers and the suggestions he makes will be delightful reading. Mr Paske has 
 adopted a very light style of writing in ' Myamma,' which lends an additional charm 
 to the short historical-cum-geographical sketch, and l:)oth the writer and the editor 
 are to be commended for the production of a really attractive book." — Public Opinioik 
 
 For the lieduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs IV. H. Allen &" Co.'s Publications. 
 
 Translation of the famous Passion Play. 
 Passion Play at Oberammergau, The, with the whole Drama translated 
 into English, and the Songs of the Chorus in German and English ; 
 also a Map of the Town, Plan of the Theatre, &c. 4to, cloth, 3s. 6d. ; 
 paper, 2s. 6d. 
 
 " The author of ' Charles Lowder ' has done a real service in publishing a transla- 
 tion of ' The Passion Play at Oberammerjrau,' with a description of the play and short 
 account of a visit there m 1880. To those v/ho have already seen it, this little book 
 will recall vividly the experience of what must be to all a memorable day, while to 
 those who are going in 1890 it is simply invaluable." — Guardian. 
 
 MARY A. PRATTEN. 
 My Hundred Swiss Flowers, with a short account of Swiss Ferns. 
 With 60 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, plain plates, 12s. 6d. ; with plates 
 coloured by hand, 25s. 
 "The temptation to produce such books as this seems irresistible. The 
 author feels a want ; the want is undeniable. After more or less hesitation 
 he feels he can supply it. It is pleasantly written, and affords useful hints 
 as to localitiea."^ — Athenoixivi. 
 
 R. A. PROCTOR. 
 Watched by the Dead, a loving study of Dickens' half-told talc. Crown 
 8vo, cloth, IS. 6d. ; boards, is. 
 " Mr Proctor hero devotes much study and much ingenious conjecture to restoring 
 the plot of ' The Mystery of Edwin Drood.' It would not be fair were we to attempt 
 to give in a small compass the result of his labours. It must suffice to say that those 
 who have occupied themselves v/itli this curious problem will be interested in the 
 solution here offered for their acceptance." — Spectator. 
 
 WILLIAM PROCTOR, Stud Groom. 
 The Management and Treatment of the Horse in the Stable, 
 Field, and on the Road. Second Edition, Re%'ised and Enlarged, 
 Illustiated. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 " There are few who are interested in horses will fail to profit by one portion or 
 another of this useful work." — Spoiisman. 
 
 " We cannot do better than wish that Mr Proctor's book may find its way into the 
 hands of all those concerned in the management of the most useful quadruped we 
 possess." — En'jlaiul. 
 
 " There is a fund of sound commonsonse views in this work which will be interest- 
 ing to many owners." — Field. 
 
 " Coming from a practical hand the work should recommend itself to the public." — 
 Sportsman. 
 
 WILLIAM RAEBURN ANDREW. 
 
 Raeburn (Sir Henry, R.A. ), Life by his Great-Grandson, William 
 
 Rael)iun Andrew, with an A|)pendix comprising a list of his works 
 
 exhibited in the Royal Academy, Edinburgh. 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 " Mr Andrew's book, which on this occasion appeals to a wider public, makes no 
 
 pretence to do more than to bring togctlier the biographical fragments concerning 
 
 Raeburn gifchcred out of various puidications and to 'make them colicrent with a little 
 
 cement of his o.vn.' Possibly a fuller and rnoro original biography of the greatest of 
 
 our portrait-painters, who was at tire same time one of the greatest ornaments of the 
 
 Edinljurgh .Society of the beginning of the century, may yet see the light ; and in the 
 
 meantiine we can be grateful to Mr Andrew for bringing together and arranging so 
 
 rich a store of topographical and personal details connected with his illustrious 
 
 ancestor. In an appsndix is a useful annotated catalogue of the 1S7G exhibition of 
 
 Raeburn's works." — Scotmnan. 
 
 Afiy Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 R. RIMMER, F.L.S. 
 
 The Land and Freshwater Shells of the British Isles. Illustrated 
 with lo Photographs and 3 Lithographs, containing figures of all the 
 principal Species. Second I^dition. Crown Svo, 5s. 
 " This haudsomclj- got up little volume supplies a lonpr-felt want in a very ingenious 
 and trustworthy manner. The author ia an enthusiastic conchologist, and writes 
 both attractively and well, and in a unnner so simple and natural that we have no 
 fear that any ordinarily educated man will easily understand every phrase. But 
 the feature of this hook which strikes us most is that every species of IJritish land and 
 freshwater shell has been photographed, and here we have all the photographs, natural 
 size in the albertypo process, so that the merest tyro will find no ditficulty in identi- 
 fying any shell he may find. " — Science Gosnip. 
 
 ALEXANDER ROGERS {Bombay Civil Set-vice, Retired). 
 
 The Land Revenue of Bombay, a History of its Administration, Rise, 
 and Progress, with 18 Maps. 2 vols., demy Svo, 30s. 
 "Mr Rogers has produced a continuous and an authoritative record of the land 
 changes and of the fortunes of the cultivating classes for a full half-centurj-, together 
 with valuable data regarding the condition and burdens of those classes at various 
 periods before the present system of settlement was introduced. Mr Kogers now 
 presents a comprehensive view of the land administration of Bombay as a whole, the 
 history of its rise and progress, and a clear statement of the results which it has 
 attained. It is a narrative of which all patriotic Englishmen may feel proud. The old 
 burdens of native rule have been lightened, the old injustices mitigated, the old fiscal 
 cruelties and exactions abolished. Underlying the story of each district we see a per- 
 ennial struggle going on between the increase of the population and the available 
 means of subsistence derived from the soil. That increase of the populatiiin is the 
 direct result of the peace of the countr;)- under British rule. But it tends to press 
 more and more severely on the possii'le limits of local cultivation, and it can only be 
 provided for by the extension of the modern appliances of production and distribu- 
 tion, ilr Rogers very properly connnes himself to his own subject. But there is 
 ampio evidence that the extension of roads, railways, steam factories, aud othe* 
 industrial enterprises, have plajed an important part in the solution of the problem, 
 and that during recent 3'ear3 sich enterprises have been powerfully aided by an 
 abundant currency." — The Timea. 
 
 ROBERT SEIVELL. 
 
 Analytical History of India, from the earliest times to the Abolition of 
 the East India Com]:)any in 1858. Post Svo, 8s. 
 
 "Much careful labour has been expended on this volume." — Athcnonun. 
 
 " The object of the author in compiling the following analytical sketch of Indian 
 history ha,3 been to supply a want felt by most students of the more voluminous 
 standard works of Mill, Elphinstone, Thornton, and Marshman, for a condensed outline 
 in one small volume, which should serve at once to recall the memory and guide the 
 eye. At the same time he has attempted to render it interesting to the general reader 
 by preserving a medium between a bare analysis and a complete history ; so that, 
 without consulting the eminent authorities mentioned above, the mind mav readily 
 grasp the principal outlines of the early condition of India, and the rise and pi-ogress 
 of the East India Company. For the more full comprehension of these facts the author 
 has provided, in addition to a table of contents and a chronological index, an index to 
 the geographical position of the places to which reference is made in the text, bearing 
 the latitudes and longitude as given in Thornton's ' Ga^^etteer of India.' This will be 
 found not only to aid the student who is but partially acquainted with the map of 
 India, but also by means of occasional accents to guide him in the ordinary pro- 
 nunciation of ti'.e names.'" — Preface. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allen a^ Co.'s Puhlicatiofis. 23 
 
 G. P. SANDERSON. 
 Thirteen Years among the Wild Beasts of India ; their Haunts and 
 Habits, from Personal Observation, with an account of the Modes of 
 Capturing and Taming Wild Elephants. With 21 full-page Illustra- 
 tions, reproduced for this Edition direct from the original drawings, 
 and 3 Maps. Fifth Edition. Fcap. 4to, 12s. 
 " We find it difficult to hasten through this interesting book ; on almost every page 
 some incident or some happy descriptive passasfe tempts the reader to linger. The 
 author relates his exploits with abilit}- and with singular modesty. Kis a<lventurea 
 with nixn-eaters will afford lively entertainment to the reader, and indeed there is no 
 portion of the volume which he is likely to wish shorter. The illustrations add to the 
 attractions of the book." — Pall Mall Gazette. 
 
 " This is the best and most practical book on the wild game of Southern and 
 Eastern India that ws have read, and displays a?i extensive acquaintance with n.atiirai 
 history. To the ti'aveller proposing to visit India, whether he be a sportsman, a 
 naturalist, or an antiquarian, the book wiil be invaluable : full of incident and sparkling 
 with anecdote."— iJrtJ'ici/'.s Mariazine. 
 
 "This— the fifth edition of a worlc as charming to read as it is instructive — will be 
 welcomed equally by lovers of sport, and of natural history. Though he met with and 
 shot many other kinds of wild beasts, tlie b\>lk of the volume, well written, well illus- 
 trated, and generally well got up. deals chiefly with the elephant, the tiger, the bison, 
 the leopard, and the bear. Mr Sanderson, with exceptional powers of observation, 
 cultivated friendly intercourse with the n.atives ; and he was consequently able to utilise 
 to the utmost the* singularlj' favourable opportunities enjoyed by him as director of 
 elei>hant-cipturing operations in Mysore .and Chittagong. The result is a book which 
 to graphic details of sporting adventures f^r surpassing the common, adds a correct 
 natural history of the animals chielly dealt with, and particularly the elephant. From 
 this real king of beasts, Mr S.andcrsron carefully removes every exaggeration made both 
 for or against him, which had been repeated without .iny good foundation by one 
 writer after another ; he substitutes for fables a description of elephantine anatomy, 
 size, habits, and character which may be said to sun; up all that we know for crtain 
 about the animal, and nearly all that one can wish to know. We should have wished 
 to see this edition brought up to date. The book is more fascinating than a romance ; 
 and we have read it now the third time with as great a zest as v.-hen we revelled over 
 the perusal of the first edition."— Imim-ial and Asiatic Q'uarterly Bemeic. 
 
 PJWFESSOR SHELDON. 
 The Future of British Agriculture, how Farmers may best be bene- 
 fited. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 " Fortunately Prof. Sheldon has no mind to play the part of a prophet, but from 
 the plenitude of a lt)ng experience gives sage counsel how to farm abreast of the time 
 
 and be readv for whatever may ensue This little book is well worth reading, 
 
 and it is pka-sant to find that the Professor by no means despairs of the future of 
 agriculture in England." — Academp. 
 
 " We welcome the book as a valuable contribution to our agricultural literature, 
 and as a useful guide to those branches in which the author is especially qualified to 
 instruct." — y'atiire. 
 
 "In this beautifully printed and well-bound little book Professor Sheldon, in 
 his usual li^ippv style, surveys the agrlc\dtural field, and indicates what he thinks 
 is the prospect in front of the' British farmer. Like a watchman he stands upon his 
 tower— and when asked, Wliat of the night? he disavows not that we are in the night, 
 but carnestlv declares that the morning oometh apace. The professor is an optimist ; 
 he does not believe ihit the country is done, and still Itss does he favour the idea that, 
 taking a wide survey, the former days were better than these. On the contrary, lie 
 urges" that the way out of the Nvildorncss is not by any by-path, but by going right 
 ahead ; and, ero long, the m.an who holds the banner high will emerge triumphant." 
 — Scottish Farmer. 
 
 J. SMITH, A.L.S. 
 
 Ferns : British and Foreign. Fourth Edition, revised and greatly 
 enlarged, with New Figures, &c. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Any Bookseller al Home and Abroad.
 
 24 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 G. BARNETT SMITH, Author of ''History of the English 
 Parliament." 
 
 Leaders of Modern Industry. Biographical Sketches. 
 
 Contents :— The Stephensons, Charles Knight, Sir George Burns, 
 Sir Josiah Mason, The Wedgwoods, Thomas Bra.ssey, The Fairbairns, 
 Sir William Siemens, Tiie Kennies. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 " ' Leaders of Modern Industry ' is a volume of interesting biographical sketches of 
 
 the pioneers of various phases of industry, comprisincr the Stephensons, Charles 
 
 Knight, Sir George Bums, Sir Josiah Mason, the Wedgwoods, Thomas Brassey, the 
 
 Fairbairns, Sir William Siemens, and the Kennies."— irorZd. 
 
 Women of Renown. Nineteenth Century Studies. 
 
 Contents : — Frederika Bremer, Countess of Blessington, George Eliot, 
 Jenny Lind, Mary Somerville, George Sand, Mary Carpenter, Lady 
 Morgan, Rachel, Lady Hester Stanhope. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 Mr Barnett Smith continues his biographical activity. It is not many weeks since 
 a volume appeared from his pen on " Christian Workers of the Nineteenth Century " ; 
 now we have "Women of Ilenown : Nineteenth Century Studies." The later is the 
 larger and more elaborate work of the two, but in design and execution it is not 
 greatly dissimilar from the earlier volume. Desirous of showing what the women of 
 eminence whom he has chosen for delineation really were — how they lived, moved, 
 and acted— the author has presented them wherever he could "as painted by them- 
 selves or their contemporaries." Autobiographies and biographies aro thus, as far as 
 available, laid under contribution. In the hands of so capable a compiler as Mr 
 Barnett Smith such materials have been skilfully utilised, and the result is a series of 
 brightly written sketches. 
 
 The Life and Enterprises of Ferdinand de Lesseps — The only full 
 
 and Complete English Account of. New Edition. Revised, and 
 
 brought up to the time of his death, with Portrait. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 " A great part of M. do Lesseps' career already belongs to history, and is invested 
 
 with a lustre which nothing can obscure. Mr G. Barnett Smith makes this clear in his 
 
 useful and painstaking compilation. . . . It is skilfully executed, and illustrates aptly 
 
 and not altogether inopportunely, both the poetry and the prose of M. de Lesseps' 
 
 extraordinfiry career."— TV/e Times. 
 
 "A very comprehensive life of Ferdinand de Lesseps has been produced by G. 
 Barnett Smith, who has alreadj- proved his ability as a faithful and painstaking bio- 
 grapher. The career of M. do Lesseps was one of great achievements and great 
 vicissitudes. This biographer lauds his achievements. The facts of the prosecution 
 in connection with the Panama Canal project are elaborately set forth in this volume, 
 to which all readers interested in the question should refer for information on a matter 
 which to people not resident in France must have appeared unusuallj' complicated." — 
 Westmhvster Review. 
 
 ARTHUR PENRHYN STANLEY, D.D. {Dean of Westminster). 
 
 Scripture Portraits and other Miscellanies collected from his Published 
 Writings. By Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, D.D. Crown 8vo, gilt top, 
 5s. 
 
 " In virtue of his literary genius, his solid acquirements, his manly sense, and his 
 spnpathetic and generous pietj"^, he ranks among the most eminent and estimable of 
 Christian teachers." — Chambers's Encyclopa-dia. 
 
 "These essays range over a period of twenty years (1850-1870), and thoj' furnish a 
 series of singularly interesting illustrations of the great controversies which have 
 agitated that time. . . . Every one, indeed, of his essa3'8 has achieved in its day a 
 success which makes a recommendation unnecessary." — AI/L1bose. 
 
 J^or the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allen 6^ Co.^s Publications. 25 
 
 E. CE. SOMERVILLE and MARTIN ROSS, THE AUTHORS 
 OF "AN IRISH COUSIN." 
 
 Through Connemara in a Governess Cart. Illustrated by W. W 
 Russell, from Sketches by Edith CE. Somerville. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 " The quaint seriousness, the free and heart}' fun, the sly humour of this narrative, 
 are charmingly bright and attractive." — World. 
 
 "A bright" and breezj' narrative of two ladies in Connemara who preferred inde- 
 pendence and a mule to society and a mail car. Their simple story is divertingly 
 to\A."— Times. 
 
 "The delightful wilderness of mountain, peat bog, and heather, and all that they 
 said and did, are graphically described in this chatty and extremely readable volume." 
 — Daily Telegraph. 
 
 " Sketches of Irish Life, the eccentricities of wandering Saxons, and descriptions of 
 local scenery, are worked up in a manner which makes the book a pleasant companion. 
 Mr Russell has in his illustration ably supported the writers." — Morning Post. 
 
 By the saute Authors 
 
 In the Vine Country —Bordeaux and its Neighbourhood, Illustrated. 
 Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 " The genuine fund of wit and humour which sparkles throughout will be enjoyed 
 by all." — Olasgoiv Ilerahl. 
 
 " The authors have the knack of putting their readers in the situation in which 
 they themselves were, and so the book, light and smart as it is, is heartily enjoyable." 
 —Scotsman. 
 
 " A bright, artless narrative of tra%'el." — Times. 
 
 "There is not a dull lino in the volume from the Qrst page to the last." — Lady's 
 Pictorial. 
 
 J. E. TAYLOR, F.L.S., F.G.S., &=€. 
 For fuller notices of Dr Taylor's Works, see Scientific, pp. 33, 34. 
 Flowers : Their Origin, Shapes, Perfumes, and Colours. Illustrated w^ith 
 32 Coloured Figures by Sowerby, and 161 Woodcuts. Second 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 7s, 6d. 
 
 The Aquarium : Its Inhabitants, Structure, and Management. Second 
 Edition, with 238 Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 Half-Hours at the Seaside. Illustrated with 250 Woodcuts. Fourth 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Half-Hours in the Green Lanes. Illustrated with 300 Woodcuts. 
 Fifth Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 E. THORNTON. 
 
 A Gazetteer of the Territories under the Government of the Viceroy 
 of India. Last Edition. Revised and Edited by Sir Roper 
 Lethbridge, CLE., and A. N. V/olIaston, CLE. Demy 8vo, 
 1,070 pp., 28s. 
 
 PERCY M. THORNTON. 
 
 Harrovy School and its Surroundings. With Maps and Plates. 
 Demy Svo, 15s. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad
 
 26 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 W. M. TORRENS. 
 
 History of Cabinets. From the Union with Scotland to the Acquisition 
 ofCanida and Bengal. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 36s. 
 
 " It is almost iinjiossiblcv- .and, alas I now useless as regards the writer — to praise 
 this book too highly. It i8 a clever, sincere, and painstaking contrilnition to the 
 maliinj; of modern history, and all students of constitutional and parliamentary history 
 will find much to interest and instruct them in these able volumes. In all the nnnor 
 matters of references, indexin;,', and printing every care h.as been taken. Indeed, all 
 is praiseworthy, and the pity is that the writer should have passed awa3' without 
 receiving- tho thanks of students." — .S? Jamcit's Bud'jct. 
 
 " ' A History of Cabinets' from the beginning of the Eighteenth Century down to 
 the death of George II., which the late Mr M'Cullagh Torrcns regarded as 'the work 
 of his life,' was published yesterda}'. It consists of t^vo volumes of considerable bulk, 
 showing at once that something more than the origin and progress of the Cabinet 
 system had occupied the attention of the author. In fact, a history of Cabinets is a 
 history of Governments, and a history of Governments is, in a great measure, a history 
 of England." — The Standard. 
 
 A.J. WALL. 
 Indian Snake Poisons. Their Nature and Effects. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 CO.NTENTS. 
 The Physiological Effects of the Poison of the Cobra (Naja Tripudians). — The Physio- 
 logical Effects of the Poison of Eussell's Viper (Daboia Kussellii).— The Physiological 
 Effects produced liy the Poison of the Bungarus F.'iscialusand the nnngarus Coeruleus. 
 — The llelative Power and Properties of the Poisons of Indian and other Venomous 
 Snake.s. — The Nature of Snake Poisons. — Some practical considerations connected with 
 the subject of tinakc-Poisoning, especially regardinar prevention and treatment. — The 
 object that has been kept in view, has been to define as closely as possible, the con- 
 ditions on which the mortality from Snake-bite depends, both as regards the physio- 
 logical nature of the poisoning process, and the relations between the reptiles and their 
 victims, so as to indicate the way in which we should best proceed with the hope of 
 dimiuishing the fearful mortality that exists. 
 
 JOHN WATSON, F.L.S. 
 
 Ornithology in Relation to Agriculture and Horticulture, by various 
 
 writers, edited liy John Watson, P. L.S., &c. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 LtST OF CONTKIBCTOUS. — Mlss Eleanor A. Ormerod, late Consulting 
 Entomolo^st to the Royal Agricultural Society of England ; O. V. Alpin, 
 F.L.S. , Member of the British Ornithologists' Union; Charles Whitehead, 
 F.L.S. , F.G.S., &c., author of "Fifty Years of Fruit Farming"; John 
 Watson, F.L.S., author of " A Handbook for Farmer.s and Small Holders " ; 
 the liev. F. O. Morris, M.A.. author of "A History of BritLsh Birds " ; G. 
 W. Murdoch, late editor ol Tht Farmer; Riley Fortune, F.Z.S. ; T. H. 
 Nelson, Member of the British Ornithologi-sts' Union ; T. Southwell, F.Z.S. ; 
 Rev. Theo. Wood, B.A., F.I.S. ; J. H. Gurney, jun., M.P. ; Harrison Weir, 
 F.R.H.S. ; W. H. Tuck. 
 
 "Will form a textbook of a reliable kind in guiding agriculturists at large 
 in their dealings wth their feathered friends and foes alike." — Glar>iow 
 HfraJil. 
 
 "This is a valuable book, and should go far to fulfil its excellent purpose. 
 . . . It is a bo.k that every agriculturist should possess." — Land and 
 Water. 
 
 "It is well to know what bird.=j do mischief and what birds are helpful. 
 This book is tlie very manual to clear up all such doubts." — York.^hire Post. 
 
 "In these daj's of agricultural depression it behoves the farmer to study, 
 among other subjects, ornithology. That be and the gamekeeper often bring 
 down plagues upon the land when they fancy they are ridding it of a pest is 
 exc'^.?dinc;!y well il'u'^tf.'xtc 1 in th!'< sorip" of papers." — finnisfiifin. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs IV. H. Allen &= Co.'s Publications. 27 
 
 SAMUEL WILBERFORCE, D.D. {Bishop of Wimhester). 
 Heroes of Hebrev?- History. Crown Svo, gilt top, 5s. 
 
 "The tales which he relates are all good, and have a moral aim and purpose.'" — 
 Atheniexim. 
 
 " It is written with a natural and eaptivatins: fervour." — London Quarterly Reidew. 
 
 " .\n interesting historical account.'' — London Lit. Gaz. 
 
 " U.siug his influence as a man of the world for (he purpose of modifying those about 
 him for good, and making them serve as his inntrumeuts for the furtherance of the 
 objects which he hat) at heart. Ho was the most delightful of coiupanions, and the 
 wittiest talker of his time. Of his extraordinary versatility and extraordinary powers 
 of work, it is impossible to speak at length here, hut both qualities are abundantly 
 illustrated in his life by Canon Ashwell." — Celebrities of the Century. 
 
 S. WELLS WLLLLIMS, LL.D., Professor of the Chinese Language 
 
 and Literature at Yale College. 
 China — The Middle Kingdom. A Survey of the Geography, Govern- 
 ment, Literature, Social Life, Arts, and History of the Chinese Einpire 
 and its Inhabitants. Revised Edition, with 74 Illustrations and a New 
 Map of the Empire. 2 vols. Demy Svo, 42s. 
 Dr S. Weils Williams' Middle Kingdom has long occupied the position of a classic. 
 It is not only the fullest and most authoritative account of tho Chinese and their 
 country that exists, but it is also the most readable and entertaining. This issue is 
 practically a new work — the text of the old edition has been largely re-written and the 
 work has be.°n expanded so as to include a vast amount of now material collected by 
 Dr Williams during the late years of his residence in China — as well as the most recent 
 information respecting all the departments of the Empire. Many new illustrations 
 have been added and the best of the old engravings have been retained. An important 
 fOiUurp of this edition is a large map of the Chinese Empire from the host modern 
 authorities, more complete and accurate than any map of the country hit'nerto 
 published. 
 
 HARRY JVLLLLAMS, R.N. {Chief Lnspedor of Machinery). 
 Dedicated, by permission, to Admiral H.K.H. the Duke of Edinburgh. 
 The Steam Na-py of England. Past, Present, and Future. 
 
 Contents: — Part I. — Our Seamen; Part II. — Ships and Machinery; 
 
 Part III. — Naval Engineering; Part IV. — Miscellaneous, Summary, 
 
 with an Appendix on the Personnel of the Steam Branch of the Navy. 
 
 Third and enlarged Edition. M(?dium Svo, 12s. 6d. 
 " It is a series of essays, clearly written and often highly suggestive, on the still 
 unsolved, or only partially and tentatively solved, problems connected with the man- 
 ning and organisation, and propulsion of our modern war-ships, . . . being laudably 
 free from technicalities, and written in a not unattractive style, they will recommend 
 themselves to that small, but happily increasing, p.ection of the genera! public which 
 concerns itself seriously and intelligently with naval affairs." — Ti^rwu. 
 
 " Mr Harry WillifMns, o. naval engineer of long experience and high rank, discusses 
 the future requirements of the fleet. He is naturally most at home when dealing with 
 points which specially affect his own branch of the service, bat the whole book is well 
 worth study." — ilanrltester Guardian. 
 
 "Must he pronounced a technical book in tho main, although its author expressly 
 states that he wrote it ' not so much for professional as non-professional men.' Its 
 manifest object is to promote the efficiency of our st'^am navy in times to come, keeping 
 which aim steadfastly in view Mr Williams has brou'jlit groat knowledge and ability to 
 bear upon the endeavour to forecast what provision it would be well to make in order 
 to meet the full naval requirements of the British nation. His highly instructive work 
 is diviiled into four parts, under the respective titles of ' Our Se^iinen,' ' Ships and 
 Machinery,' 'Naval Euginoering,' and 'Miscellaneous,' whic'o again aio carefully 
 summarised in some tifty pages of eminently readable matter. The three chapters of 
 miscellanea deal principally with the coal-cnduranco, cngino-room complements, elec- 
 tric lighting, and steam-steering machinery of Her Majeity's ships." — Daily Telei/rajih 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 28 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 Professor H. H. WILSON, author of the '' Standard History of India" 
 
 Glossary of Judicial Terms, including words from the Arabic, 
 
 Persian, Hindustani, Sanskrit, Hindi, Bengali, Uriya, Maralhi, 
 
 Guzarathi, Tclugu, Karnata, Tamil, Malayalam, and other languages. 
 
 4to, cloth, 30s. 
 
 Wynter's Subtle Brains and Lissom Fingers. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 Contents. 
 
 The Buried Boman City in Britain. Early Warnings. 
 
 " Silvortown." Dining Hooms for the Worliing Classes. 
 
 Advertising. Eaiiway and City Population. 
 
 Vivisection. A Day with the Coroner. 
 
 The New Hotel System. The English in Paris. 
 
 The Eesloration of our Soil. The Timeg Newspaper in 1798. 
 
 Half-Hours at the KenBiugton Museura. The Under-Sea Railroad. 
 
 Mudie's Circulating Library. Oh, the Boast Beef of Old England 
 
 Fraudulent Trade Marks. Physical Education. 
 
 Superstition : Where does it End? Advice by a Betired Physician. 
 
 The New Counterblast to Tobacco. The Clerk of the Weather. 
 
 Air Traction. Portsmouth Dockyard. 
 
 Illuminations. Village Hospitals. 
 
 Boat-Building by Machinery. Railways, the Groat Civiliscrs. 
 
 The Effects of Railway Travelling upon On tailing a House. 
 
 Health. Photographic Portraiture. 
 
 The Working-Men's Flower Show. Doctor's Stuff. 
 
 Messa!<e8 under the Sea. Smallpox in London. 
 
 Town Telegraphs. Hospital Dress. 
 
 The Bread We Eat. Excursion Trains. 
 
 " Altogether ' Subtle Brains and Lissom Fingers ' is about the pleasantest book of 
 short collected pap-^-r.'! of chit chat blendin? jnformatioa with amusement, and not over- 
 tasking the attention or the intelligence, that we have sef-n for a good while." — London 
 Reader. 
 
 LIEUT. G. J. YOUNGHUSBAND, Queen's Own Corps of Guides. 
 
 Eighteen Hundred Miles in a Burmese Tat, through Burmah, Siam, 
 and the Eastern Shan States. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 
 " There is a good deal of jocular description in this book, which, as the reader will 
 easily see. has been introduced with .an eye rather to amusstncnt than to accuracy; but 
 after all tho volume will have repaid the reader for the few hours which may be spent 
 in its perusal if it conveys to him, as it is calculated to do, a fair impression of the 
 difficulties which beset the w^ayfarer in a strange land who, when in search of the 
 pleasures of travel, begins his journey where he should leave off, and ends it where he 
 should have started." — Alheiifhum. 
 
 "Mr Younghusband's account of his adventures is written simply and without 
 exaggeration, but on the whole wo think we would rather read about the Shan country 
 than travel in it.'" — Literary World. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs IV. H. Allen 6^ Co.^s Publications. 29 
 
 Scientitic Morks: iuclubinc} Botany, IRatural 
 
 E. BOA- A VI A, M.D., Bn'gcuie-Siirgeon, Indian Medical Sennce. 
 
 The Cultivated Oranges and Lemons of India and Ceylon. Demy 
 8vo, with oblong Atlas \'olume of Plates, 2 vols. 30s. 
 
 R. BRAITHWAITE, M.D., F.L.S., &c. 
 The Sphagnaceas, or Peat Mosses of Europe and North America. 
 Illustrated with 29 Plates, coloured by hand. Imp. 8vo, 25s. 
 
 " All nijscologists will be delighted to hail tha appearance of this important work. 
 . . . Never before has our native moss-flora been so carefully flguied and described, 
 and that by an acknowledged authority on the subject." — Science Gossip. 
 
 '• Mosses, perhaps, receive about as little attention from botanists as any class of 
 plants, and considsring how admirably mosses lend themselves to the collector's 
 purposes, this is very remarkable. Something may be due to the minuteness of the 
 size of many of the species, and something perhaps to the diflSculties inherent in the 
 systematic treatment of these plants ; but we fancy the chief cause of compara.tivo 
 neglect with which they are treated is to be sought in the want of a good illustrated 
 English treatise upon them. In the work which Is now before us, Dr Braithwaite aims 
 at placing the British mosses on the same vantage-ground as the more favoured classes 
 of the vegetable kingdom ; and judging from the sample lately issued, he will succeed 
 in his endeavours." — Popular Science Rccieui. 
 
 B. CARRINGTON, M.D., F.R.S. 
 British Hepaticas. Containing Descriplions and Figures of the Native 
 .Species of Jungermannia, Marchantia, and Anthoceros. Imp. Svo, 
 sewed, Parts i to 4, plain plates, 2s. 6d. each ; coloured plates, 
 3s. 6d. each. 
 
 M. C. COOKE, M.A., LL.D. 
 The British Fungi : A Plain and Easy Account of. With Coloured 
 Plates of 40 Species. Fifth Edition, Revised. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 '• Mr Cooke writes for those whose education and means are limited, and with pre- 
 eminent success. It is really a pleasure to read the manuals which he has published, 
 for they are up to the mark, and so complete as to leave hardly anything to be desired. 
 The new work on the fungi appears to bo equally valuable v.'ilb those which he has 
 already printed. It contains descriptions of the esculent fimgi, the manner in which 
 they are prepared for the table, how to discriminate the nutritious from the poisonous 
 species, details of the principles of their scientific classification, and a tabular arrange- 
 ment of orders and genera." 
 
 Handbook of British Hepaticae. Containing Descriptions and Figures 
 of the Indigenous Species of Marchantia, jungermannia, Riccia, and 
 Anthoceros, Illustrated. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 
 " It is very creditable to Mr Oooke that the drawings in his book are all sketches 
 from nature made by his own pencil. This shows work, and is more respectable than 
 the too common practice of copying engravings from the authorities in the particular 
 branch of scionco. This little book is valuable, because in some respects it is cerUvinly 
 a good guide-book to a number of edible fungi unknown to the public." — Popular 
 Science Jieviar. 
 
 "Probably no group in the British flora has received so little attention as the 
 Hepatica;. Dr M. (J. Cooke has now filled up the gap by producing a • Handbook of 
 the British Hepaticie,' containing full descriptions of all the species, about two hundred 
 in number, known to inhabit the British Islands." — Nature. 
 
 M. C. Cooke's Books continued. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 3© Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 M. C. COOKE, M.A., LL.D. — continued. 
 
 Our Reptiles and Batrachians. A Plain and Easy Account of the 
 
 Liziirds, Snakes, Newts, Toads, Frogs, and Tortoises indigenous to 
 
 Great lirilain. New and Revised Edition. With original Coloured 
 
 Pictures of every Species, and numerous Woodcuts. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Beptiles and Snake-atones. The Blind Womi. The Common Frog. 
 
 'J'lie Common Lizard. The Common Snake. The Edible Frog. 
 
 Tho Sand Liz.ird. The Smooth Snake. The Common Toad. 
 
 The (ireen Lizard. The Viper, or Adder. Common Smooth Newt or 
 
 The Xaitcrjack. (jreat Water Newt. Eft. 
 
 Palmate Newt. Gray's Banded Newt. The Hawk's-Bill Turtle. 
 
 Tho Leathery Turtle. Amphibia or Batrachians. Appendix. 
 
 " Mr Cooke has especially distinguished himself as a student of the funj?i and the 
 fresh-water alga;, his works on these orders being the standard treatises in English. 
 He has also paid some attention to zoology and chemistry, his education in these as in 
 other sciences being obtained by persistent self-instruction." — Cetebrilies of the Century. 
 
 Rust, Smut, Mildew, and Mould. An Introduction to the Study of 
 
 Microscopic Fungi. Illustrated with 269 Coloured Figures by J. 
 
 E. Sowerby. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged, with Appendi.x 
 
 of New Species. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Those of our readers who are the happj' possessors of microscopes would welcome 
 
 this book with delight, as opening the way to a definite study of a most interesting 
 
 branch of plant life. The minute fungi, here so faithfully depicted by Mr Sowerby, 
 
 and so carefully described by Dr Cooke, have not only beauty of form and colour, but 
 
 wonderful life-histories. Every hed^ or lane or piece of waste ground, even in the 
 
 suburbs of large towns, will provide specimf^ns, which may be easily preserved on the 
 
 plants which they attack or mounted as microscope slides. 
 
 Important to Botanists and Students of Natural History. 
 European Fungi (Hymenomycetum) — Synoptical Key to. Cooke 
 (M. C. ) and Quelet (L., M.D. , c\:c.) — Clavis Synoptica Ii)Tnenomy- 
 cetum Europffioruin. Fcap. 8vo, 7s. 6d. ; or, interleaved with ruled 
 paper, 8s. 6d. 
 " Without pretending to high scientific quality, the work throughout is well fitted to 
 instruct and to attract a class of readers who might shrink from grappling with a 
 scientific text-book." — Saturday Review. 
 
 BARON CUVIER. 
 The Animal Kingdom. With considerable Additions by W. B. 
 Carpenter, M.D., F.R.S., and J. O. Westwood, F.L.S. New 
 Edition, Illustrated with 500 Engravings on Wood and 36 Coloured 
 Plates. Imp. 8vo, 2 IS. 
 J. HUNTER, late Hon. Sec. of the British Bee-keepers^ Association. 
 A Manual of Bee-keeping. Containing Practical Information for 
 Rational and Profitable Methods of Bee Management. Full Instruc- 
 tions on Stimulative Feeding, Lignrianising and Queen-raising, with 
 descriptions of the American Comb Foundation, Sectional Supers, 
 and the best Plives and Apiarian Appliances on all systems. Fourth 
 Edition. With Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 " We cordially recommend Mr Hunter's neat and compact Manual of Bee-keeping. 
 Mr Hunter writes clearly and well." — Sciettce Gossip. 
 
 " We are indebted to Mr J. Hunter, Honorary Secretary of the British Bee-keepers' 
 Association. His Manual of Bce-kef-ping, just published, is full to the very brim of 
 choice and practical hints fully up to the most advanced stages ot Apiarian Science, 
 and its perusal has afforded us so much pleasure that we have drawn somewhat largely 
 from it for the benefit of our readers." — Bee-teepers' Magazine (New York). 
 
 For the lieduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs IV. H. Allen oy Co.'s Publications. 31 
 
 G. II. KINAHAN. 
 A Handy Book of Rock Names. Fcap. 8vo, 4s. 
 
 " This will prove, we do not doubt, a very useful little book to all practical gcolojrists, 
 and also to the reading student of rocks. When a difficulty is incurred as to a 
 species of deposit, it will soon vanish. Mr Kinahan's little book n-ill soou make it all 
 clear. The work is divided into three parts. The nri>t is a classiflod table of rocks, the 
 second part treats of the Jn/jenitt rocks, and the third part deals with those rocks which 
 are styled Dcrivate. Dana's termination of iiU has been mo.=t generally used by the 
 author, but he has also given the iu terminatious for those that likts thom. The book 
 will be purchased, for it must bo had, by every geologist ; and as its size is small, it will 
 form a convenient pocket companion for the man who works over field and quarry." — 
 Popular Science He view. 
 
 Professor E. LANKESTER. 
 The Uses of Animals in Relation to the Industry of Man. New 
 Edition. Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 4s. 
 
 Silk, Wool, Leather, Bone, Soap, Waste, Sponeres, and Corals, Shell-fish, Insects, 
 Furs, Feathers, Horns and Hair, and iVnimal Perfumes, are the subjects of the twelve 
 lectures on " The Uses of Animals." 
 
 " In his chapter on ' Waste,' the lecturer gives startlin<^ insight into the manifold 
 uses of rubbish. . . . Dr Lanbester finds a use for everything: ; and he delights in 
 analysing each fresh sample of rejected material, and stating how each of its com- 
 ponent parts can be turned to the best account." — Athcna'um. 
 
 Practical Physiology : A School Manual of Health. V/ith numerous 
 Woodcuts. Sixth Edition. Fcap. 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Constitution of the Human Body. Breathing, or the Function of Respira- 
 Nature of the Food supplied to the Human tion. 
 
 Body. The Structure and Functions of the 
 Digestion, and the Organs by which it is Skin. 
 
 performed. The Movements of the Human Body. 
 
 Nature of Blood and its Circulation by the The Brain and Nerves. 
 
 Heart. The Organs of the Senses. 
 
 "Writing for schoolboys, Dr Lankestcr has been careful to consult their tastes. 
 There arc passages in this little work which will make it popular, and the instructor 
 will probably be hailed by a name which is new to people of his class, that of a 
 ' regular brick.' " — At/tenceum. 
 
 MRS LANKESTER. 
 Talks about Health : A Book for Boys and Girls. Being an Explana- 
 tion of all the Processes by which Life is Sustained. Illustrated. 
 Small 8vo, is. 
 
 The Late EDWARD NEWMAN, F.Z.S. 
 British Butterflies. With many Illustrations. Super royal 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 " The r.ritish butterflies have found a good friend in Mr Newman, who has given 
 us a history of thoir lives — from larva to iina;io, their habits .and their whereabouts — 
 which is one of the most perfect things of the kind. And we arc glad to read the 
 author's st.atement that his work has attained, while in progress, a sale that is almost 
 unattainable in English scientific works. Firstly, the work consists of a series of 
 notices to the y oung who m.ay be disposed to go butterfly-hunting. And in them we 
 find the author's «reat experience, and we commend this part of his work to our 
 readers. The next i>art deals with the subjects of anatomy, physiology, and embryo- 
 logy of the in.?ect3 ; and finally we come to the separate account of each species. This 
 latter is admirably given. First comes a capital engraving, life size, of the species, 
 and then follows in order the life, history, time of ai)pearance and locality, occupying 
 from a page to a page and a half or two pages of a large i|uarto (or nearly so) volume. 
 All this is (lone well, as we might expect from the author ; it is clear, intelligible, and 
 devoid of much of the rubbish which abounds in books of this kind generally. We 
 must conclude by expressing the hope that all who are interested in insects will make 
 themselves aquainted with the volume." — Popular Science Review. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 32 Great Reductions m this Catalogue 
 
 MARY A. PRATTEN. 
 
 My Hundred Swiss Flowers. With a Short Account of Swiss Ferns. 
 
 With 60 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, plain plates, 12s. 6d. ; coloured 
 
 plates, 25s. 
 
 "The temptation to produce such books as this seems irresistible. The author 
 
 feels a want ; the want is undeniable. After more or less hesitation he feels he can 
 
 supply it. It is pleasantly written, and affords useful hints as to localities." — 
 
 AthenoRnin. 
 
 S. L. rUMPHREY. 
 
 A Little Brown Pebble, with 10 full-page cuts. Fcap. 410, 3s. 6d. 
 
 " III the story of ' A Little Brown Pebble,' its writer endeavours to introduce geo- 
 logical science into the nursery, showing what strange creatures lived in the ancient 
 seas, what monsters inhabited the primeval forests, and how our country alternated 
 between torrid heats and an arctic cold. The accurac3' of the information is guaran- 
 teed by competent authorities, and the illustrations are spirited. There is no reason 
 why the attempt should not succeed." — Academy, 21at December 1889. 
 
 R. RIMMER, F.L.S. 
 
 The Land and Freshwater Shells of the British Isles. Illus- 
 trated with 10 Photographs and 3 Lithographs, containing figures of 
 all the principal Species. Second Edition. Crown 8vo, 5s. 
 "This handsomely got up little volume supplies a long-felt want in a very ingenious 
 and trustworthy manner. The author is an enthusiastic conchologist, and writes 
 both attractively and well, and in a manner so simple and natural that wo have no 
 fear that any ordinarily educated man will easily understand every phrase. But the 
 feature of this book which strikes us moat is that every species of liritish land and 
 freshwater shell has been photographed, and hero we have all the photographs, natural 
 size in the albertype procens, so that the merest tyro will find no difficulty in identi- 
 fying any shell he may find." — Science Review. 
 
 /. SMITH, A.L.S. 
 
 Ferns : British and Foreign. Fourth Edition, revised and greatly en- 
 larged, with many illustrations. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 " Each genus is described, and the technical characters upon vvhich it is founded 
 are shown in the accompanying illustrations, and the indispensable technical terms 
 are e.xplained by examples The meaning and derivations of the botanical names of 
 ferns are also given in sutlicient detail and with sufficient accuracy to meet the wants 
 of amateurs, if not of scholars. But perhaps the most valuable part of the w ork is that 
 devoted to instruction in the cultivation of ferns, which occupies some seventy pages 
 of the book. A bibliography of the subject and an excellent index make up the 
 remainder of this useful volume, which we reconnncnd to all persons desirous of know- 
 ing something more about ferns than being able to recognise them by sight." — Field. 
 
 " Mr Smith's work entitles him to admiration for his industry and for the manifest 
 care with which he has studied his subject ; and his present enlarged work will certainly 
 become and be a standard library book of reference for all pteridologists and orna- 
 mental gardeners (wliether professional or amateur) who devote attention to Cliculture. 
 And there really is no family of plants which is more elegant than are ferns. Indi- 
 o;e)ious British ferns alone afford a most interesting scope^of research and collection." 
 — Whitehall lUvieic. 
 
 " This is a new and enlarged edition of one of the best extant works on British 
 and foreign ferns which has been called for by the introduction, during the interval 
 of ten years which has elapsed since the issue of the first edition, of a number of exotic 
 species which have been collected and arranged under their respective genera and 
 tribes as an appendix. There are thus introduced 231 entirely new species. The sixty 
 pages devoted to a treatise on the cultivation of ferns are invaluable to the fern-grower, 
 professional or amateur, describing the conditions under which ferns grow in their 
 native country — knowledge which is essential to their really successful cultivation 
 in ttas."— Rural World. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allen c5^' Go's Publications. 33 
 
 /. E. TAYLOR, F.L.S., F.G.S. 
 Flowers : Their Origin, Shapes, Perfumes, and Colours, Illus- 
 trated with 32 Coloured Figures by Sowerby, and 161 Woodcuts. 
 Second Edition. Crown Svo, cloth gilt, 7s. 6d. 
 Contents 
 
 The Old and New Philosophy of Flowers— The Geological Antiquity of Flowers 
 and Insects — The Geographical Distribution of Flowers— The Structure of Flowering 
 Plants — Relations between Flowers and their Physical Surroundings— Relations 
 between Flowers and the Wind — Ths Colours of Flowers — The External Shapes of 
 Flowers— The Internal Shapes of Flowers — The Perfumes of Flowers— Social Flowers 
 —Birds and Flowers— The Natural Defences of Flowering Plants. 
 
 " This is an altogether charming book, full of wisdom, cheerful, simple, attractive, 
 and informed throughout with a high purpose. Its object is to place within reach of 
 the general public in an agreeable form the results of the most recent and compre- 
 hensive botanical research. The author is so bold as to ask why flowers were made, 
 and is not without means to answer the question reverently and truthfully. He 
 connects them by the aids that science supplies with the history of creation, and the 
 records of the rocks, and with the history of man, and the progress of the agricultural 
 and horticultural arts. He tells us how they are influenced by soil and climate, how 
 changed and multiplied by insects and other agencies, how their seeds are blown 
 about the world, and how by innumerable divine appointments it at last comes about 
 that the life of a man is environed and beautified with flowers. The work is rich in 
 the results of travel, and it happily connects the vegetable products of the globe with 
 the conditions that favour them and the wants they satisfy. It is therefore a book 
 for all ages, and for botanists and gardeners, as well as for such as rather too gladly 
 confess they know nothing about plants. We should like to see it on every 
 family table in the whole length and breadth of the United Kingdom." — Oardeners' 
 Magazine. 
 
 The Aquarium : Its Inhabitants, Structure, and Management. 
 
 Second Edition, with 23S Woodcuts. Crown Svo, 3s. 6d. 
 
 "Few men have done more to popularise the natural history science than the late 
 Dr Taylor. The work before us, while intended as a handbook to public aquaria, is 
 responsible for many attempts, successful and otherwise, at the construction of the 
 domestic article. The book is replete with valuable information concerning persons 
 and things, while the directions for making and managing aquaria are very clear and 
 concise. The illustrations are numerous, suitable, and very good." — Schoolmaster. 
 
 "The ichthyologist, be it known, is not such a fearful or horrific 'sort of wild- 
 fowl ' as his name would seem to argue him. The prevalence of the breed, the extent 
 of its knowledge, the zeal of its enthusiasm, and the number of the aquaria it has 
 built for itself in town or country, are all part and parcel of that ' march of science ' 
 which took its impetus from Darwin and the ' Origin of Species.' Those who do not 
 already know that useful book, ' The Aquarium,' by Mr J. E. Taylor, Ph.D., F.L.S., 
 &c., should procure this new edition (the sixth). It forms a convenient handbook or 
 popular manual to our public aquaria. The aquarium, its inhabitants, its structure 
 and its management, are the author's especial care And with the help of well-known 
 works and a wide experience he has managed to put together a most praiseworthy 
 book." — Science Si/tinc/s. 
 
 Half- Hours in the Green Lanes. Illustrated with 300 W^oodcuts. Fifth 
 Edition. Crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 " A book which cannot fail to please the young, and from which many an older 
 reader may glean here aiid there facts of interest in the field of nature. Mr Taylor 
 has endeavoured to collect these facts which are to be recorded daily by an observant 
 country gentleman with a taste for natural history ; and he has attempted to put them 
 together in a clear and simple style, so that the young may not only acquire a love for 
 the investigation of nature, but may also put up (by reading this little book) an im- 
 portant store of knowledge. We think the author bias succeeded in his object. He 
 has made a very interesting little volume, not written above the heads of its readers 
 as many of those books are, and he has taken care to have most of his natural history 
 observations very accuratelj' illustrated." — Popular Science Review. 
 
 J. E. Taylor's Books continued. 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 34 Great Redudmis in this Catalogue 
 
 J. E. TAYLOR, F.L.S., F.G.S.— continued. 
 
 Half- Hours at the Seaside. Illustrated with 250 Woodcuts. Fourth 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 " The love of natural historj' has now become so prevalent, at leaet among purely 
 English readers, that we hardly meet a family at the seaside one of whose members 
 has not some little knowledfje of the wonders of the deep. Kow, of course, this love 
 of marine zooloffy is being vastly increased by the existence of the valuable aquaria 
 at the Crystal Palace and at Brighton. Still^ however, notwithstanding the amount 
 of admirable works on the subject, more especially the exeellent treatises of Gosse 
 and others, there was wanted a cheap form of book with good illustrations which 
 should give a clear account of the ordinary creatures one meets with on the sands 
 md in the rock pools. The want no longer exists, for the excellent little manual that 
 now lies before us embraces .ill that could be desired by those who are entirely ignorant 
 of the subject of seaside zoologj", while its mode of arrangement and woodcuts, which 
 are carefully drawn, combine to render it both attractive and useful."— PopitZar 
 Science Review. 
 
 IRiMuG, l^eterinarp, auD Bariculture. 
 
 EDWARD L. ANDERSON. 
 
 How to Ride and School a Horse. With a System of Horse Gym- 
 nastics. Fourth Edition. Revised and Corrected. Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 " Ue is well worthy of a hcarinp." — Bell's Life. 
 
 " Mr Anderson is, without doubt, a thorough horseman." — The Field. 
 
 " It should be a good investment to all lovers of horses." — The Fornur.' 
 
 ''There is no reason why the careful reader should not be able, by the help of^this 
 little book, to train as well as ride his horses." — Land and Water. 
 
 JAMES IRVINE L UPTON, F.R.C.V.S. 
 
 The Horse, as he Was, as he Is, and as he Ought to Be. Illustrated. 
 Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d. 
 " Written with a good object in view, namely, to create an interest in the im- 
 portant subject of horse-breeding, more especially that class known as general utility 
 horses. The book contains several illustrations, is well printed and handsomely 
 bound, and we hope will meet with the attention it deserves." — Live Stock JoumcU. 
 
 WILLIAM PROCTOR, .Stud Groom. 
 The Management and Treatment of the Horse in the Stable, Field, 
 and on the Road. New and Revised Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 "There are few who are interested in horses will fail to profit by one 
 portion or another of this useful work. Coming from a practical hand the 
 work should recommend itself to the public." — Sportsman. 
 
 " There is a fund of sound common-sense views in this work which will be 
 interesting to many owners." — Fiehl. 
 
 GEORGE GRESSWELL. 
 The Diseases and Disorders of the Ox. Second Edition. Demy 8vo, 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 " This is perhaps one of the best of the popular books on the subject which has been 
 published in recent years, and demonstrates in a most unmistakable manner the great 
 advance that has been made in Bovine and Ovine Pathology since the days of Youatt. 
 . . . To medical men who desire to know something of the disorders of such an 
 important aulmal — speaking hygienically — as the Ox, the work can be recommended." 
 — The Lancet. 
 
 " It is clear, concise, and practical, and would make a very convenient handbook of 
 reference." — Saturday Revieic. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allen c^- Co.'s Publications. 35 
 
 PROFESSOR SHELDON. 
 
 The Future of British Agriculture. How Farmers may best be 
 Benefited. Crown Svo, 2s. 6d. 
 
 " Fortunately Prof. Sheldon has no mind to play the part of a projihet, 
 but from the plenitude of a long experience gives sage counsel how to farm 
 abreast of the time and be ready for whatever may ensue. . . . This little 
 book is well worth reading, and it is pleasant to find that the professor by 
 no means despair's of tlie future of agiiculture in England." — Academy. 
 
 "■\Ve welcome the book as a valuable contribution to our agi-icultural 
 literature, and as a useful guide to those branches in which the author 
 is especially (jualitied to insti'uct." — Nature. 
 
 "In this beautifully printed and well-bound little book of 158 pp., 
 Professor Sheldon, in his usual happy style, surveys the agricultural field, 
 and indicates what he thinks is the prospect in front of the British farmer. 
 Like a watchman he stands upon his tower — and when asked, What of the 
 night ? he disavows not that we are in the night, but earnestly declares that 
 the morning cometh apace. The professor is an optimist ; he does not believe 
 that the country is done, and still less does he favour the idea that, taking a 
 wide survey, the former days were better than these. On the contrary, he 
 urges that the way out of the wilderness is not by any by-path, but by going 
 right ahead ; and, ere long, the man who holds the banner high will emerge 
 triumphant." — Scottish Farracr. 
 
 JOHN WATSON, F.L.S. 
 
 Ornithology in Relation to Agriculture and Horticulture, by various 
 writers, edited by John Watson, F. L.S., &c. Crown Svo. 3s. 6d. 
 
 List of Contributors. — Miss Eleanor A. Ormerod, late Consulting 
 Entomologist to the Royal Agricultural Society of England; O. V.-Aplin, 
 F.L.S. , Member of the Britisli Ornithologists' L^nion ; Charles Whitehead, 
 F.L.S. , F.G.S., kc, author of "Fifty Years of Fruit Farming"; John 
 Watson, F.L.S., author of "A Handbook for Farmers and Small Holdeis " ; 
 the Piev. F. O. Morris, M. A., author of "A History of British Birds " ; G. W. 
 Murdoch, late editor of Tke Farmer ; Riley Fortune, F.Z.S. ; T. H. Nelson, 
 Member of the British Ornithologists' Union ; T. Southwell, F.Z.S. ; Rev. 
 Theo. Wood, B.A., F.I.S. ; J. H. Gurney, jun., M.P. ; Harrison Weir, 
 F.R.H.S. ; W. H. Tuck. 
 
 " Will form a textbook of a reliable kind in guiding agriculturists at large 
 in their dealings with their feathered friends and foes alike," — Glasgow 
 Herald. 
 
 " This is a valuable book, and should go far to fulfil its excellent purpose, 
 , , . It is a book that every agriculturist should possess." — Land and 
 Water. 
 
 "It is well to know what birds do mischief and what birds are helpful. 
 This book is the very manual to clear up all such doubts." — Yorkshire Post. 
 
 "In these days of agricultural depression it behoves the former to study, 
 among other subjects, ornithology. That he and the gamekeeper often bring 
 down plagues upon the land when they fancy they are ridding it of a pest is 
 exceedingly well illustrated in thia series of papers," — Scotsman. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 36 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 3nMa, Gbina, 5apan, anD tbe East. 
 
 SURGEON-MAJOR L. A. WAD DELL, M.B., F.L.S., F.R.G.S., 
 
 Member of the Royal Asiatic Society, Antliropological Institute, &^c. 
 
 The Buddhism of Tibet, with its Mystic Cults, Symbolism, and Mytho- 
 logy, and in its Relation to Indian Buddhism, with over 2(X) Illustra- 
 tions. Demy 8vo, 31s. 6d. 
 
 Stsopsis of Costents : — Introductory. Historical: Changes in Primitive Bud- 
 dhism leading to Lamaism — Rise, Development, and Spread of Lamaisni — The Sects of 
 Lamaism. Doctrinal : Metaphysical Sources of the Doctrine— The Doctrine and its 
 Morality— Scriptures and Literature. Monastic : The Order of Lamas — Daily Life and 
 Routine — Hierarchj and Reincarnate Lamas. Buildings: Monasteries— Temples and 
 Cathedrals— Shrines (and Relics and Pilgrims). Mythology and Gods : Pantheon and 
 Images — Sacred Symbols and Charms. Ritual arid Sorcery : Worship and Ritual — 
 Astrology and Divination— Soreerj- and Xecromancy. Festivals and Plays : Festivals 
 and Holidays— Mystic Plaj's and Masquerades and Sacred Plays. Popular Lamaism : 
 Domestic and Popular Lamaism. A2/pendices : Chronological Table — Bibliographj- — 
 Index. 
 
 " By far the most important mass of original materials contributed to this recondite 
 study." — The Times. 
 
 " Dr Waddcll deals with the whole subject in a most e.\haustive manner, and gives 
 a clear insight into the structure, prominent features, and cults of tbe system ; and to 
 disentangle the early historj' of Lamaism from the chaotic growth of fable which has 
 invested it, most of the chief internal movements of Lamaism are now for the first 
 time presented in an intelligible and systematic form. The work is a valuable 
 addition to the long series that have preceded it, and is enriched by numerous illus- 
 trations, mostly from oricinals brought from Lhasa, and from photographs by the 
 author, while it is fully indexed, and is provided with a chronological table and biblio- 
 graphy." — Liverpool Courier. 
 
 " A book of exceptional interest." — Glasyow Herald. 
 
 "A learned and elaborate work, likely for some time to come to be a source of 
 reference for all who seek information about Lamaism. ... In the appendix will be 
 found a chronological table of Tibetan events, and a bibliography of tbe best literature 
 bearing on Lamaism. There is also an excellent index, and the numerous illustrations 
 are certainly one of the distinctive features of the book." — Mornin'j Post. 
 
 " Cannot fail to arouse the liveliest interest. The author of this excellently pro- 
 duced, handsomely illustrated volume of nearly six hundred pages has evidently 
 spared no pains in prosecuting his studies. . . . The book is one of exceptional value, 
 and will attract all those readers who take an interest in the old religions of the far 
 East." — Publishers' Circular. 
 
 SIR EDWIN ARNOLD, M.A., Author of '' The Light of Asia," ^c. 
 
 The Book of Good Counsels. Fables from the Sanscrit of the 
 Hitopadesa. With Illustrations by Gordon Browne. Autograph and 
 Portrait. Crown 8vo, antique, gilt top, 5s. 
 
 A few copies of the large paper Edition (limited to 100 copies), 
 bound in white vellum, 25s. each net. 
 " ' The Book of Good Counsels,' by Sir Edwin Arnold, conies almost as a new book, 
 so long has it been out of print. Now, in addition to being very tastefully and 
 prettily reissued, it contains numerous illustrations bj' Mr Gordon Browne. As some 
 few may remember, it is a book of Indian stories and poetical maxims from the 
 Sanskrit of the Hitopadesa. The book is almost a volume of fairy tales, and may pass 
 for that with the younger generation, but it is a little too heavily overlaid with philo- 
 sophy to be dismissed wholly as such. In fact, like all that Sir Edwin Arnold has 
 brought before us, it is full of curious fancies, and that it is a charming little book to 
 look at is its least merit." — Daily Grajjh'c. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs \V. H. Allen &= Co.'s Fublicatiofis. 37 
 
 CAPTAIN JAMES ABBOTT. 
 
 Narrative of a Journey from Herat to Khiva, Moscow, and St 
 Petersburgh during the late Russian invasion at Khiva. With Map 
 and Portrait. 2 vols., demy 8vo, 24s. 
 The real interest of the work consists in ita store of spirited anecdote, its enter- 
 tainingf sketches of individual and national character, its graphic pictures of Eastern 
 life and manners, its simply told tales of peril, privation, and suffering- encountered and 
 endured with a soldier's courage. Over the whole narrative, the naivett' and frank- 
 ness of the writer cast a charm that far more than covers its oacasional eccentricities 
 of style and language. It has seldom fallen to our lot to read a more interesting 
 narrative of personal adventure. Rarely, indeed, do we find an author whose 
 constant presence, through almost the whole of two large volumes, is not only 
 tolerable, but welcome. Few readers will rise from a perusal of the narrative 
 without a strona: feeling of personal sympathy and interest in the gallant Major ; even 
 though here and there unable to repress a smile at some burst of ecstas.v, some abrupt 
 apostrophe, such as would never have been perpetrated by a practical writer, and a 
 man of the world. 
 
 S//i E. C. BAYLEY. 
 
 The Local Muhammadan Dynasties, Gujarat. Forming a Sequel 
 to Sir H. M. Elliotts "History of the Muhammadan Empire 
 of India." Demy 8vo, 21s. 
 
 "The value of the work consists in the light which it serves to throw upon dis- 
 puted dates and obscure transactions. As a work of reference it is doubtless useful. 
 Regarding the way in which its learned translator and editor has acquitted himself 
 of his task it is scarcely necessary to write ; a profound scholar and painstaking in- 
 vestigator, his labours are unusually trustworthy, and the world of letters will doubt- 
 less award hira that meed of praise, which is rarely withheld from arduous and con- 
 scientious toil, by assigning him, in death, a niche in the temple of fame, side by side 
 with his venerated master, Sir Henry Elliott." — Academy. 
 
 " This book may be considered the first of a series designed rather as a supplement 
 than complement to the ' History of India as Told by its own Historians.' Following 
 the Preface, a necessarily brief biographical notice — written in the kindly and appre- 
 ciative spirit which ever characterises the style of the learned editor of Marco Polo, 
 whose initials are scarcely needed to confirm his identity— explains how on Professor 
 Dowson's death. Sir Edward Clive Bayley was induced to undertake an editorship for 
 which he was eminently qualified by personal character and acquaintance with the 
 originator of the project which constituted his ra>son d'Hrc But the new editor did 
 not live to see the actual publication of his first volume. Scarcolv had he completed 
 it for the press, when his eireer was brought to a close. A singular fatality seems to 
 have attended the several able men who have taken the leading pa,rt in preserving this 
 particular monument of genuine history. Henry Elliott, John Dowson, Edward Clive 
 Bayley, and more recently still (durinsr th"! current year), Edward Thomas, the high- 
 class numismatist, all have passed away, with hands upon the plough in the very field 
 of Oriental research. Without asking to whose care the preparation of any future 
 volnmes may be entrusted, let us be thankful for the work, so far completed and — at 
 this time especially — for tha instalment which has just appeared." — Athenceum. 
 
 S/R GEORGE BIRD WOOD, M.D. 
 
 Report on the Old Records of the India Office, with Maps and 
 Illustrations. Royal Svo, 12s. 6d. 
 
 '' Those who are familiar with Sir George Bird wood's literary method will appreciate 
 the interest and the wealth of historical illustration with which he invests these topics." 
 —Timef, Feb. 2ii, 18!)1. 
 
 " Sir George Birdwood has performed a Herculean task in exploring, sorting, and 
 describing the masses of old India Office records, which Mr Danvers has now got into 
 a state of admirable arr.angement, so that, with the help of Sir George's Index, they 
 may be readily and profitably consulted by students." — Scotsman. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Nome and Abroad.
 
 38 
 
 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 E. BONA VIA, M.D., Brigade-Surgeon, Indian Aledical Service. 
 
 The Cultivated Oranges and Lemons of India and Ceylon. Demy 
 
 8vo, with Alias of Plates, 30s. 
 
 " The amount of labour and research] that Dr Bonavia must have oxponded on these 
 volumes would be very difBcuIt to estimate, and it is to ho hoped that he will be repaid, 
 to some extent at least, by the recognition of his work by those who are interested in 
 promoting the internal industries of India." — Home Nncs. 
 
 " There can be no question that the author of this work has devoted much time and 
 trouble to the study of the Citrus family in India. That the preparation of the book 
 has been a labour of love is evident throughout its pages." — The Englishman. 
 
 F. C. DANVERS, Registrar and Superintendent of Records, 
 India Office, London. 
 
 Report to the Secretary of State for India in Council on the Portu- 
 guese Records relating to the East Indies, ccmiained in the 
 Archive da Torre de' Tombo, and the I'ld^lic Libraries at Lisbon and 
 Evora. Royal 8vo, sewed, 6s. net. 
 
 " The whole book is full of important and interesting materials for the student 
 alike of English and of Indian history." — Time!.. 
 
 "■ It is more than time that some attention was paid to the history of the Portuguese 
 in India by Englishmen, and Mr Danvers is doing good service to India by his investi- 
 gation into the Portuguese records." — India. 
 
 " We are very grateful for it, especially with the gratitude which consists in a long- 
 ing for more favours to come. The Secretary of State spends much money on worse 
 things than continuing the efforts of which the book under review is only the first 
 result." — Asiatic Quarterhj Review. 
 
 The visits of inspection into the records preserved in Portugal bearing on the 
 history of European enterprise in Eastern seas, which were authorised by the Secretary 
 of State for India in 1S91 and 1892, have resulted in the production of a most interest- 
 ing report, which shows that a vast store of historical papers has been carefully pre- 
 served in that country, which deserves more thorougli investigation. Mr Danvers, 
 whose devotion to the duties of the Record Department is well known, hastened to 
 carry out his instructions, and bis report fully attests the earnestness with which he 
 pursued his task. The documents range in date fi-oio 1500 to the present date, and 
 contain clusters of documents numbering ]'2.4G5 and .'>,'274, and 1,783 in extent, besides 
 many other deeplj' interesting batches of smaller bulk. It seems that no copies exist 
 of most of these documents among our own records, a fact which invests them with 
 peculiar interest. 
 
 GEORGE DOB. SON. 
 
 Russia's Railway Advance into Central Asia. Notes of a Journey 
 from St Petersburg to Samarkand, Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 " The letters themselves have been expanded and rewritten, and the work contains 
 seven additional chapters, which bring the account of the Transcaspian Provinces 
 down to the present time. Those of our readers who remember the original letters 
 will need no further commendation of our correspondent's accuracy of information 
 and graphic powers of description." — Times. 
 
 "Offers a valuable contribution to our knowledge of this region. The author 
 journeyed from St Petersburg to Samarkand by the Russian trains and steamers. 
 He wonders, as so many liave wondered before, why the break in the line of railway 
 communicatiou which is made by the Caspian Sea is allowed to continue. His book is 
 eminently impartial, and he deals with the question of trade between India and Central 
 Asia in a chapter full of the highest interest, both for the statesman and the British 
 merchant. " — Daibj Telegraph. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allefi &= Co.'s Publications. 
 
 39 
 
 REV. A. J. D. HORSEY, B.D., K.C., P.O.C. 
 
 Portuguese Discoveries, Dependencies, and Missions in Asia and 
 Africa, with Maps. Crown Svo, 7s. 6d. 
 
 Contents. 
 
 Book I. 
 Introductory. 
 
 The Portuguese in Europe and Asia. 
 Portugal and the Portuguese. 
 Portuguese Discoveries in the Fifteenth 
 
 Century. 
 Portuguese Conquests of India in the 
 
 Sixteenth Century. 
 The Portuguese Empire in the Sixteenth 
 
 Century. 
 
 Book II. 
 
 The Portuguese Missions in Southern 
 
 India. 
 Early History of the Church in India. 
 First Meeting of the Portuguese with the 
 
 Syrians. 
 Pioneers of the Portuguese Missions. 
 The Rise of the Jesuits. 
 The Jesuits in Portugal. 
 St Francis Xavier's Mission in India. 
 Subsequent Missions in the Sixteenth 
 
 Century. 
 
 Book III. 
 
 The Subjugation of the Syrian Church. 
 Roman Claim of Supremacy. 
 First Attempt, by the Franciscans. 
 Second Attempt, by the Jesuits. 
 The Struggle against Rome. 
 
 Book III. — continued. 
 
 The Archbishop of Goa. 
 The Synod of l)iamper. 
 The Triumph of Rome. 
 
 Book IV. 
 
 Subsequent Missions in Southern India, 
 with special reference to the Syrians. 
 
 Radiation of Mission of Goa. 
 
 The Madura Mission. 
 
 Portuguese Missions in the Carnatic. 
 
 Syrian Christians in the Seventeenth 
 Century. 
 
 Syrian Christians in the Eighteenth 
 Century. 
 
 Book V. 
 
 The Portuguese Missions, with special 
 
 reference to Modern Missionary 
 
 efforts in South India. 
 The First Protestant Mission in South 
 
 India. 
 English Missions to the Syrians 1806-16. 
 English Missions and the Syrian 
 
 Christians. 
 The Disruption and its Results. 
 Present State of the Syrian Christians. 
 The Revival of the Romish Missions in 
 
 India. 
 
 GENERAL GORDON, C.B. 
 
 Events in the Taeping Rebellion. Being Reprints of MSS. copied 
 by General Gorclon, C. B., in his own handwriting; with Monograph, 
 Introduction, and Notes. By A. Egmont Hake, author of "The 
 Story of Chinese Gordon." With Portrait and Map. Demy Svo, i8s. 
 
 " A valuable and graphic contribution to our knowledge of affairs in China at the 
 most critical period of its history." — Leeds Mercury. 
 
 " Mr nake has prefixed a vivid sketch of Gordon's career as a ' leader of men,' 
 which shows insight and grasp of character. The style is perhaps somewhat too 
 emphatic and ejaculatory — one seems to hear echoes of Hugo, and a strain of Mr 
 Walter Basant — but the spirit is excellent." — Athejimum. 
 
 " Without wearying his readers by describing at length events which are as 
 familiar in our mouths as household words, ho contents himself with giving a light 
 sketch of them, and fills in the picture with a personal narrative which to most people 
 will be entirely new." — Saturday Reriew. 
 
 F. V. GREENE, Military AttacU to the U.S. Legation 
 at St Fetetsburg. 
 
 Sketches of Army Life in Russia. Crown Svo, 9s. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 40 
 
 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 M. GRIFFITH. 
 India's Princes. Short Life Sketches of the Native Rulers of India, 
 with 47 Portraits and Ilhistrations. Demy 4to, gilt top, 2 is. 
 List of Portraits. 
 
 The Pusjatb. 
 H.H. the Maharaja of Cashmere. 
 H.H. the Maharaja of Patiala. 
 H.H. the Maharaja of Kapurthalla. 
 
 Ka.ipitasa. 
 The Maharaja of Oudipur. 
 The Maharaja of Jeypore. 
 The Maharaja of Jodhpur. 
 The Maharaja of Ulware. 
 The Maharaja of Bhurtpur. 
 
 Central India. 
 H.H. the Maharaja Holkar of Indore. 
 H.H. the Maharaja Scindia of Gwalior. 
 H.H. the Begum of Bhopal. 
 
 The Bombay Presidency. 
 H.H. the Qaikwar of Baroda. 
 H.H. the Eao of Cutch. 
 H.H. the Eaja Kolhapur. 
 H.H. the Nawab of Junagarh. 
 H.H. the Thakore Sahib of Bhavnagar. 
 H.H. the Thakore Sahib of Dhangadra. 
 H.H. the Thakore Sahib of Morri. 
 H.H. the Thakore Sahib of Gondal. 
 
 SoLTHERN India. 
 H.H. the Nizam of Hyderabad. 
 H.H. the Maharaja of Mysore. 
 H.H. the Maharaja of Travancore. 
 
 " A handsome volume containing a series of photographic portraits and local 
 views with accompanying letterpress, giving biographical and political details, 
 carefully compiled and attractively presented."— Tu/ies. 
 
 C. HAMILTON. 
 Hedaya or Guide. A Commentary' on the Mu.ssulman Laws. Second 
 Edition. With Preface and Index by S. G. Grady. 8vo, 35s. 
 " A work of very high authority in all Moslem countries. It discusses most of the 
 subjects mentioned in the Koran and Sonna." — Mill's Muhammadanism. 
 
 The great Law-Eook of India, and one of the most important monuments of Mussul- 
 man legislation in existence. 
 
 "A valuable work." — Allibone. 
 
 Sy.\opsis of Contents. 
 
 Of Widda or Deposits. 
 Of Areeat or Loans. 
 Of Hibba or Gifts. 
 
 Of Zakat. 
 
 Of Nikkah or Marriage. 
 
 Of Kizza or Fosterage. 
 
 Of Talak or Divorce. 
 
 Of Ittak or the Manumission of Slaves. 
 
 Of Eiman or Vows. 
 
 Of Hoodood or Punishment. 
 
 Of Saraka or Larceny. 
 
 Of Al Seyir or the Institutes. 
 
 Of the Law respecting Lakects or Found- 
 lings. 
 
 Of Lookta,s or Troves. 
 
 Of Ibbak or the Absconding of Slaves. 
 
 Of Mafkoods or Missing Persons. 
 
 Of Shirkat or Partnership. 
 
 Of Wakf or Appropriations. 
 
 Of Sale. 
 
 Of Serf Sale. 
 
 Of Kafalit or Bail. 
 
 Of Hawalit or the Transfer of the Kazee. 
 
 Of the Duties of the Kazee. 
 
 Of Shahadit or Evidence. 
 
 Of Retractation of Evidence. 
 
 Of Agency. 
 
 Of Dawee or Claim. 
 
 Of Ikrar or Acknowledge. 
 
 Of Soolh or Composition. 
 
 Of Mozaribat or Co-partnership in the 
 Profits of Stock and Labour. 
 
 Of Ijaro or Hire. 
 
 Of Mokatibes. 
 
 Of WiUa. 
 
 Of Ikrah or Compulsion. 
 
 Of Hijr or Inhibition. 
 
 Of Mazoons or Licensed Slaves. 
 
 Of Ghazb or Usurpation. 
 
 Of Shaffa. 
 
 Of Kissmat or Partition. 
 
 Of Mozarea or Compacts of Cultivation. 
 
 Of Mosakat or Compacts of Gardening. 
 
 Of Zabbah or the Slaying of Animals for 
 
 Food. 
 Of Uzheea or Saoriflce. 
 Of Kiraheeat or Abominations. 
 Of the Cultivation of Waste Lands. 
 Of Prohibited Liquors. 
 Of Hunting. 
 Of Eahn or Pawns. 
 
 Of Janayat or Offences against the Person. 
 Of Deeayat or Fines. 
 Of Mawakil or the Levying of Fines. 
 Of Wasaya or Wills. 
 Of Hermaphrodites. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs W. H. Allen c^ Co.'s Publications. 41 
 
 HOWARD HENSMAN, Special Correspofident of the ''Pioneer" 
 (Allahabad) and the " Daily Nezus" {London). 
 The Afghan War, 1879-80. Being a complete Narrali%e of the Capture 
 of Cabul, the Siege of Sherpur, the Battle of Ahmed Khel, the March 
 to Candahar, and the defeat of Ayub Khan. With Maps. Demy 8vo, 
 21S. 
 " Sir Frederick Koberts says of the letters here published in a collected form that 
 ' nothing could be more accurate or graphic' As to accuracy no one can be a more 
 competent judge than Sir Frederick, and his testimony stamps the book before us as 
 constituting especially trustworthy material for history. Of much that he relates Mr 
 Hensman was an eye-wjtness: of the rest he was informed by eye-witnesses immedi- 
 ately after the occurrence of the events recorded. We are assured by Sir Frederick 
 Boberts that Mr Hensman's accuracy is complete in all respects. MrHensman enjoyed 
 singular advantages during the first part of the war, for he was the only special corre- 
 spondent who accompanied the force which marched out of Ali Kheyl in September 
 1879. One of the most interesting portions of the book is that which describes the 
 march of Sir Frederick Koberts from Cabul to Candahar. Indeed, the book is in 
 every respect interesting and well written, and reflects the greatest credit on the 
 author." — Athenceiim. 
 
 Sir H. HUNTER. 
 A Statistical Account of Bengal. 20 vols. Demy 8vo, £b. 
 
 1. Twenty-four Parganas and Sundar- 7. Meldah, Rangpur, Dinajpur. 
 
 bans. 8. Eajshahf and Bogra. 
 
 2. Nadiya and lessor. 9. Murshidabad and Pabna. 
 
 3. Midnapur, Hugli, and Hourah. 10. Darjihng, Jalpaigurf, and Kutch 
 
 4. Bardwan. Birbhum, and Bankhura. Behar State. 
 
 5. Dacca, Bakar^anj, Faridpur, and 11. Patna and Saran. 
 
 Maimansinh. 12. Gaya and Shahabad. 
 
 6. Cbiltagong Hill Tracts, Chiitagong. Vi. Tirhut and Champaran. 
 
 Noakhali, Tipperab, and Hill 14. Bhagalpur and Santal Parganas. 
 
 Tipperah State. 15. Jlonghyr and Purniah 
 
 Bengal MS. Records, a selected list of Letters in the Board of Revenue, 
 Calcutta, 1 782- 1 807, with an Historical Dissertation and Analytical 
 Index. 4 vols. Demy 8vo, 30s. 
 " This is one of the small class of original works that compel a reconsideration of 
 views which have been long accepted and which have passed into the current history 
 of the period to which they refer. Sir William Wilson Hunters exhaustive examination 
 of the actual state of the various landed classes of Bengal during the last century 
 renders impossible the further acceptance of these hitherto almost indisputable dicta 
 of Indian history. The chief materials for that examination have been the contem- 
 porary MS. records preserved in the Board of Revenue, Calcutta, of which Sir William 
 Hunter gives a list of 14,130 letters dealing with the period from 17S-2 to 1807. Nothing 
 could be more impartial than the spirit in which he deals with the great questions 
 involved. He makes the actual facts, as recorded by these letters, written at the 
 time, speak for themselves. But those who desire to learn how that system grew out 
 of the pre-existing land rights and land usages of the province will find a clear and 
 authoritative explanation. If these four volumes stood alone they would place their 
 author in the first rank of scientific historians ; that is, of the extremely limited 
 class of historians who write from original MSS. and records. But they do not stand 
 alone. They are the natural continuation of the author's researches, nearly a genera- 
 tion ago, among the District Archives of Bengal, which produced his ' Annala of 
 Rural Bengal ' in 18(JS and his ' Orissa' in 1872. They are also the first-fruits of that 
 comprehensive history of India on which he has been engaged for the last twenty years, 
 for which he has collected in each province of India an accumulation of tested local 
 materials such as has never before been brought together in the hands, and by the 
 labours, of any worker in the same stupendous field, and which, when completed, will 
 be the fitting crown of his lifelong services to India. These volumes are indeed an 
 important instalment towards the projected mai/num opus ; and in this connection 
 it is of good augury to observe that they maintain their author's reputation for that 
 fulness and minuteness of knowledge, that grasp of principles and philosophic insight, 
 and that fertility and charm of literary expression which give Sir William Hunter his 
 unique place among the writers of his day on India."— The Times. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 42 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 KEV. T. P. HUGHES. 
 A Dictionary of Islam, being a Cyclopaidia of the Doctrines, Rites, 
 Ceremonies, and Customs, together with the Technical and Theological 
 Terms of the Muhammadan Religion. With numerous Illustrations. 
 Royal 8vo, £2. 2s. 
 
 " Such a work as this has long been needed, and it would be hard to find 
 any one better qualified to prepare it than Mr Hughes. His ' Notes on 
 Jluhammadanism,' of which two editions have appeared, have proved de- 
 cidedly useful to students of Islam, especially in India, and his long familiarity 
 with the tenets and customs of Moslems has placed him in the best possible 
 position for deciding what is necessary and what superfluous in a ' Dictionary 
 of Islam.' His usual metliod is to begin an article with the text in the 
 Koran relating to the subject, then to add the traditions bearing upon it, and 
 to conclude ^vith the comments of the Mohammedan scholiasts and the 
 criticisms of Western scholars. Such a method, while involving an infinity of 
 labour, produces the best results in point of accuracy and comprehensiveness. 
 The difficult task of compiling a dictionary of so vast a subject as Islam, with 
 its many sects, its saints, khalifs, ascetics, and dervishes, its festivals, ritual, 
 and sacred places, the dress, manners, and customs of its professors, its com- 
 mentators, technical terms, science of tradition and interpretation, its super- 
 stitions, magic, and astrology, its theoretical doctrines and actual practices, 
 has been accomplished with singular success; and the dictionary will have its 
 place among tlie standard works of reference in every library that professes 
 to take account of the religion which governs the lives of forty millions of 
 the Queen's subjects. The articles on 'Marriage,' 'Women,' 'Wives,' 
 'Slavery,' 'Tradition,' 'Sufi,' 'Muhammad,' ' Da'wah ' or Incantation, 
 ' Burial,' and 'God, 'are especially admirable. Two articles deserve special 
 notice. One is an elaborate account of Arabic ' Writing ' by Dr Steingass, 
 which contains a vast quantity of useful matter, and is well illustrated by 
 woodcuts of the chief varieties of Arabic script. The other article to which 
 we refer with special emphasis is Mr F. Pincott on 'Sikhism.' There is some- 
 thing on nearl every page of the dictionary that will interest and instruct 
 the students of Eastern religion, manners, and customs." — Athenceum. 
 
 Dictionary of Miihaiiiniadmi Theology. 
 Notes on Muhammadanism. By Rev. T. P. Hughes. Third Edition, 
 revised and enlarged. Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 
 
 "Altogether an admirable little book. It combines two excellent quali- 
 ties, abundance of facts and lack of theories. . . . On every one of the 
 numerous heads (over fifty) into which the book is divided, Mr Hughes 
 furnishes a large amount of very valuable information, which it would be 
 exceedingly difficult to collect from even a large library of works on the 
 subject. The book might well be called a ' Dictionary of Muhammadan 
 Theology,' for we know of no English work which coml)ines a methodical 
 arrangement (and consequently facility of reference) with fulness of informa- 
 tion in so high a degree as the little volume before us." — The Academy. 
 
 "It contains niultum in pario, and is about the best outline of the 
 tenets of the Muslim faith which we have seen. It has, moreover, the rare 
 merit of being accurate ; and, although it contains a few passages which we 
 would gladly see expunged, it cannot fail to be useful to all Government 
 employes who have to deal with Muhammadans ; whilst to missionaries it 
 will be invaluable. "—TAc Times of India. 
 
 " The main object of the work is to reveal the real and practical character 
 of the Islam faith, and in this the author has evidently been successful. " — 
 The Standard. 
 
 For the Reduced Prices apply to
 
 of Messrs IV. H. Allen e?^ Co.'s Publications. 43 
 
 MRS GRA CE JOHNSON, Silver Medallist, Cookery Exhibition. 
 Anglo-Indian and Oriental Cookery. Crown 8vo, 3s. 6cl. 
 
 H. G. KEENE, CLE., B.C.S., M.R.A.S., &-c. 
 History of India. From the Earliest Times to the Present Day. For 
 the use of Students and Colleges. 2 vols. Crown 8vo, with Maps, 
 i6s. 
 
 " The main merit of Mr Keene's performance lies in the fact that he has assimilated 
 all the authorities, and has been careful to bring his book down to date. He has been 
 careful in research, and has availed himself of the most recent materials. He is well 
 known as the author of other works on Indian history, and his capacity for his self- 
 imposed task will not be questioned. We must content ourselves with this brief testi- 
 mony to the labour and skill bestowed by him upon a subject of vast interest and 
 importance. Excellent proportion is preserved in dealing with the various episodes, 
 and the style is clear and graphic. The volumes are supplied with many useful maps, 
 and the appendix include notes on Indian law and on recent books about India." — 
 Globe. 
 
 "Mr Keene has the admirable element of fairness in dealing with the succession of 
 great questions that pass over his pages, and he wisely devotes a full half of his work 
 to the present century. The appearance of such a book, and of every such book, upon 
 India is to be hailed at present. A fair-minded presentment of Indian history like that 
 contained in Mr Keene's two volumes is at this moment peculiarly welcome." — Times. 
 
 '• In this admirably clear and comprehensive account of the rise and consolidation 
 of our great Indian Empire, Mr Keene has endeavoured to give, without prolixity, ' a 
 statement of the relevant facts at present .available, both in regard to the origin of the 
 more important Indian races and in regard to their progress before they came under 
 the unifying processes of modern administration." To this undertaking is, of course, 
 added the completion of the story of the 'unprecedented series of events ' which have 
 led to the amalgamation of the various Indian tribes or nationalities under one rule. 
 In theory, at least, there is finality In history. Mr Keene traces the ancient Indian 
 races from their earliest known ancestors and the effect of tha Aryan settlement. He 
 marks the rise of Buddhism and the great MiiSlira Conquest, the end of the Pathans, 
 and the advent of the Empire of the Mugbrfls. In rapid succession he reviews the 
 Hindu revival, the initial establishment of En ,'lish influence, and the destruction of 
 French power. The author records the policy of Cornwallis, the wars of Wellesley, 
 and the Adminisiratiou of Minto — the most important features in Indian history before 
 the establishment of British supremacy. It is a brilliant record of British prowess and 
 ability of governing inferior races that Mr Keene has to place before his readers. We 
 have won and held India by the sword, and the policy of the men we send out year by 
 year to assist in its administration is largely based on that principle. The history of 
 the lanii, of our occupation, and our sojourning, so ably set forth in these pages, is 
 inseparable from that one essential fact." — Morning Post. 
 
 An Oriental Biographical Dictionary. Founded on materials collected 
 by the late Thomas William Beale. New Edition, revised and en- 
 larged. Royal 8vo, 28s. 
 "A complete biographical dictionary for a country like India, which in its long 
 history has produced a profusion of great men, would be a vast undertaking. The 
 suggestion here made only indicates the lino on which the dictionary, at some future 
 time, could be almost indefinitely extended, and rendered still more valuable as a work 
 of reference. Groat care has evidently been taken to secure the accuracy of all that 
 has been included in the work, and that is of far more importance than mere bulk. 
 The dictionary can be commended as trustworthy, and reflects much credit on Mr 
 Keene. Several interesting lists of rulers are given under the various founders of 
 dynasties." — India. 
 
 The Fall of the Moghul Empire. From the Death of Aurungzeb to 
 the Overthrow of the Mahratta Power. A New Edition, with Correc- 
 tions and Additions. With Map. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. 
 This work fills up a blank between the ending of Elphiustone's and the commence- 
 
 /nent of Thornton'.s Histories. 
 
 Fifty-Seven. Some Account of the Administration of Indian Districts 
 during the Revolt of the Bengal Army. Demy 8vo, 6s. 
 
 Any Bookseller at Home and Abroad.
 
 44 Great Reductions in this Catalogue 
 
 G. B. MALLESON. 
 History of the French in India. From the Founding of Pondicherry 
 in 1674, to the Capture of that place in 1761. New and Revised 
 Edition, with Maps. Demy 8vo, l6s. 
 
 '• Colonel Malleson has produced a volume alike attractive to the general reader and 
 valuable for its new matter to the special student. It is not too much to say that now, 
 for the tlrst time, we are furnished with a faithful narrative of that portion of European 
 enterprife in India which turns upon the contest waged by the East India Company 
 against French influence, and especially against Dupleix." — Editthunjh Review. 
 
 " It is pleasant to contrast the work now before us with the writer's first bold plunge 
 into historical composition, which splashed every one within his reach. He swims now 
 with a steady stroke, and there is no fear of his sinking. With a keener insight into 
 human character, and a larger understanding of the sources of human action, he com- 
 bines all the power of animated recital which invested his earlieV narratives with 
 popularity." — Fctrtnightly Review. 
 
 "The author has had the advantage of consulting French Archives, and his volume 
 forms a useful supplement to Orme." — Athenxum. 
 
 Final French Struggles in India and on the Indian Seas. New 
 
 Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 
 "How India escaxjed from the government of prefects and sub-prefects to 
 fall under that of Commissioners and Deputy-Commissioners ; why the Penal 
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 are not looking on helplessly from Mahe, Karikal, and Pondicherry, while the 
 French are ruling all over Madras, and spending millions of francs in attempt- 
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 volume. Colonel Malleson is always painstaking, and generally accurate ; his 
 style is transparent, and he never loses sight of the purpose with which he 
 commenced to write." — Saturday Rcricv). 
 
 "A book dealing with such a period of our historj' in the East, besides 
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 popular with general readers."— .4<fee«ce«m. 
 
 History of Afghanistan, from the Earliest Period to the Outbreak of the 
 War of 187S. With map. Demy 8vo, l8s. 
 "The name of Colonel Malleson on the title-page of any historical work in 
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 is likely to become a work of standard authority." — Scotsman. 
 
 The Battlefields of Germany, from the Outbreak of the Thirty Years' 
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 1 6s. 
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 previous English writer has made so interesting and instructive as he has 
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 Ambushes and Surprises, being a Description of some of the most famous 
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 from the time of Hannibal to the period of the Indian Mutiny. With a 
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 MRS MANNING. 
 Ancient and Mediaeval India. Being the History, Religion, Laws, 
 Caste, ^Manners and Customs, Language, Literature, Poetry, Philo- 
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 Commerce, &c., of the Hindus, taken from their Writings. With 
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 J. MORRIS, Azithor of '■'■ The War in Korea,^'' Ssfc, thirteen years 
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 Advance Japan. A Nation Thoroughly in Earnest. With over 100 
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 Legation. Svo, 12s. 6d. 
 " Is re.ally a remarkably complete account of the land, the people, and the institu- 
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 of the war with China. The volume is illustrated by a Japanese artist of repute; it 
 has a number of useful statistical appendices, and it is dedicated to His Majesty the 
 Hikado. "— .Scof^man. 
 
 DEPUTY SURGEON-GENERAL C. T. PASKE, late of the Bengal 
 
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 Life and Travel in Lower Burmah, with frontispiece. Crown Svo, 6s. 
 "In dealing with life in Burmah we are giveu a pleasant insight into 
 Eastern life ; and to those interested in India and our other Eastern 
 possessions, the opinions Mr Paske offers and the "suggestions he makes will 
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 'Myamma,' which lends an additional charm to the short historical-cum- 
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 for the production of a really attractive book." — Public Ojnnion. 
 
 ALEXANDER ROGERS, Bombay Civil Service Retired. 
 The Land Revenue of Bombay. A History of its Administration, 
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 "These two volumes are full of valuable information not only on the Land Revenue, 
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 attained. It is a narrative of which all patriotic Englishmen may feel proud. The old 
 burdens of native rule have been lightened, the old injustices mitigated, the old fiscal 
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 abundant currency." — The Times. 
 
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 G. P. SANDERSON, Officer in Charge of the Governi/ient 
 Elephant Keddahs. 
 Thirteen Years among the Wild Beasts of India ; their Haunts 
 and Habits, from Personal Observation. With an account of the 
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 author relates his exploits with ability and with singular modesty. His adventures 
 with man-eaters will afford lively entertainment to the reader, and indeed there is no 
 portion of the vohinis which he is likely to wish shorter. The illustrations add to the 
 attractions of the book." — Pall MaU Gazetlc 
 
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 A Gazetteer of the Territories under the Government of the Vice- 
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 Hunter's "Imperial Gazetteer" has been prepared, which is not only much 
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 one moderate-sized volume. 
 
 It is obvious that the value of the New Edition must depend in a large measure 
 upon the care and judgment which have been exerci.sed in the preparation of the 
 letterpress. The task was, in the first instance, undertaken by Mr Roper Lethbridge, 
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 marked degree for an undertaking demanding considerable knowledge and experience. 
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 publishers deemed it prudent to subject the pages to the scrutiny of a second Editor, 
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 from sins of omission and commission. It will be found to contain the names of many 
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 *^* The chief objects in view in compiling this Gazetteer are: — 
 
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 much precision as possible, and to exhibit with the greatest practicable brevity all 
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 2ndly. To note the various countries, pro\inces, or territorial divisions, and to 
 describe the physical characteristics of each, together with their statistical, social, 
 and political circumstances. 
 
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 DR C. EDWARD SACHAU. 
 Athar-Ul-Bakiya of Albiruni : The Chronology of Ancient Nations, 
 an English Version of the Arabic Text Translated and Edited with 
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 A book of extraordinary erudition compiled in A. d. 1000. 
 
 A.J. WALL. 
 Indian Snake Poisons : Their Nature and Effects. Crown 8vo, 6s. 
 Contents. 
 
 The Physiological Effects of the Poison of the Cobra (Naja Tripudians). — The Physio- 
 logical Effects of the Poison of Kussell's Viper (Daboia Russellii). — The Physiological 
 Effects produced by the Poison of the Bungarus Fasciatus and the Bungarus boeruleus. 
 — The Relative Power and Pi-operties of the Poisons of Indian and other Venomous 
 Snakes. — The Nature of Snake Poisons. — Some practical considerations connected with 
 the subject of Snake-Poisonin?, especially regarding Prevention and Treatment. — The 
 object that has been kept in view, has been to deflne as closely as possible the condi- 
 tions ou which the mortality from Snake-bite depends, both as regards the physio- 
 logical nature of the poisoning process, and the relitions between the reptiles and their 
 victims, so as to indicate the way in which we should best proceed with the hope of 
 diminishing the fearful mortality that exists. 
 
 S. WELLS WILLI A. MS, LL.D., Professor of the Chinese 
 Latiguai^e and Literature at Yale College. 
 China— The Middle Kingdom. A Survey of the Geography, Govern- 
 ment, Literature, Social Life, Arts, and History of the Chinese 
 Empire and its Inhabitants. Revised Edition, with 74 Illustrations 
 and a New Map of the FZmpire. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 42s. 
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 that has ever been given to the public. Its minuteness and thoroughness are beyond 
 all praise. " — North American Revieiu. 
 
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 PROFESSOR H. H. WILSON. 
 Glossary of Judicial and Revenue Terms, including words from 
 
 the Arabic, Teluga, Karnata, Tamil, Persian, Hindustani, Sanskrit, 
 
 Hindi, Bengali, Marathi, Guzarathi, Malayalam, and other languages. 
 
 4to, 30s. 
 " It was the distinguishing characteristic of our late director that he con- 
 sidered nothing unworthy of his labours that was calculated to be useful, and 
 was never influenced in his undertakings by the mere desire of acquiring 
 distinctioii or increasing his fame. Many of his works exhibit powers of 
 illustration and close reasoning, which will place their author in a high 
 position among the literary men of the age. But it is as a man of deep 
 research and as a Sanskrit scholar and Orientalist, as the successor of Sir "VVm. 
 Jones and H. T. Colebrooke, the worthy wearer of their mantles and inheritor 
 of the pre-eminence they enjoyed in this particular department of literature, 
 that his name will especially live among the eminent men of learning of his 
 age and country." — H. T. Prin-sep. 
 
 " A work every page of which teems with information that no other 
 scholar ever has or could have placed before the public. . . . The work 
 must ever hold a foremost place not only in the history of India but in that of 
 the human race." — Edinburgh Review. 
 
 LIEUr. G. J. YOUNG HUSBAND, Queen's Otun Corps of Guides. 
 Eighteen Hundred Miles in a Burmese Tat, through Burmah, Siani, 
 
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