3V UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES JOURNEY MERUT IK INDIA, LONDON. JOURNEY FROM MERUT IN INDIA, TO LONDON, THROUGH ARABIA, PERSIA, ARMENIA, GEORGIA, RUSSIA, AUSTRIA, SWITZERLAND, AND FRANCE, DURING THE YEARS 1819 AND 1820. WITH A MAP AND ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE. LIEUTENANT THOMAS J.UMSD EN, OF THE HENGAI. HORSE AltTII.I-ERY. LONDON : Pm.VTKI) FOR BLACK, KINGSBURY^ PARBURY, & ALLEN J AND VX)K OLIVER & BOYD, AND MACREDIE, SKELLY, & CO. EDINBURGH. 1822. >- cc C3 c n)5 4e.:s .9 7^^ PREFACE. ^^ The vast extent and growing importance of o the British possessions in the East, may fur- nish an apology for any contribution, how- ever small, having a tendency to facihtate the intercourse betwixt them and the mother- country : while the general amity now happi- ly prevaihng, both amongst the European and Asiatic powers, may be regarded as afford- ing an inducement to travellers to follow the overland route such as has not perhaps ex- isted at any former period ; more especially, when it is added, that the English character tj> never commanded such universal respect among other nations as it has done since the VI PREFACE. glorious termination of the great struggle in 1815. To such travellers as may desire to follow the route pursued by the Author, the follow- ing narrative will be found not without its use. Having devoted his hfe to his profes- sional duties, he cannot be supposed to have cultivated the graces of composition : The details now offered to the public will, there- fore, he trusts, be received with some indul- gence. They were written from day to day, in the course of the Journey, and often under very disadvantageous circumstances ; so that their only recommendation must arise from the truth and fidelity with which they have been framed. It so happened that, when the Author was preparing this little Work for the press, cer- tain occurrences took place in tlie corps to wliich \\v b(^lon^!;s. in consequence whereof PREFACE. he found it expedient to return to Bengal sooner than he had intended, and thus he was led to commit the charge and superin- tendence of the pubhcation to a friend. In order that the Work may be rendered as useful as possible to future travellers, it is accompanied with a Map of the whole route, and an Itinerary exhibiting the various stages, their distances from each other, the dominions within which they are situated, and the respective dates of their having been visited by the Author. o JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN A STRONG desire to revisit my native country, af- ter I had served eleven years in India, induced me to apply for permission to return to Europe, which I was fortunate enough to obtain. Having accordingly made the necessary arrangements, I left Merut, accompanied by Lieut. A. Cameron of the Bengal horse-artillery, oji Sunday the 3d of October 1819, at half-past two o'clock in the morning, when the moon shone forth in all lier splendour, thus affording an auspicious commence- ment to a journey, which it was impossible to contemplate with feehngs altogether exempt from anxiety. 2 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Merut is a large military cantonment, within a mile of an old city of that name, situated in the province of the Doab, in lat. 29° 30" and long. 77' 33". It is nearly equidistant between the rivers Ganges and Jumna. AVe travelled the first ten miles in a buggy, to the village of Mow, where we had horses waiting our arrival ; thence we rode to the village of Shaje- hanpoor, nine miles nearer the Ganges, and encamp- ed under the shade of some beautiful mango trees. Shajehanpoor is a place of no note. It has, like most of the villages in this part of India, the re- mains of a small mud fort in its vicinity. But the people being no longer subject to the predatory in- cursions of their neighbours, all the defences of the towns are neglected, and suffered to decay. Here we were joined by Col. G. Pennington, Capt. Boileau, and Lieut. Smoult, all of the horse- artillery. Monday y 4 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIX. strength of the current against the wind, without touching an oar, and in this way we drifted down about four miles, when, at four o'clock, P.INI. the wind ceased, and before night we got a Httle be- low where the Soane joins the Ganges. Sunday, \Uh. — Passing the military cantonments of Dinapoor, we reached the civil station of Ban- keypoor, close to the city of Patna, at nine o'clock, A.M. My boat was moored, and I landed ; there were several other boats near, and some men were washing clothes at the place. I had not walked twenty yards when I beheld a sight, which, although, I am sorry to say, common on the banks of the Ganges, is most disgust- ing to a man of any feeling, and shews, in the strongest point of view, the barbarous state of the natives of this country : A number of dogs, vul- tures, and crows, were collected round a human body, the flesh of which they were tearing from the bones, and, when I saw it, they had nearly devour- ed the legs J but such is the apathy of the Asiatic, that he will cook his dinner, wash his clothes, sing and beat time with a tom-tom, (drum,) with such an object close to him, n.'volting as it is to human na- ture, without once giving it a thought. If you ask him what it is, with an air of the utmost indiffer- ence he will reply, «' murdah," (a dead body) " which none but men of r?o r<7.9/ will touch." BANKEYPOOR. '^5 The Mahomedans bury their dead ; but all Hin- doos of any wealth are burned, and, if near, their ashes are thrown into the all-purifying stream of the Ganges. Wlien the relations are poor, and cannot aftbrd to buy wood to burn the body, they think it sufficient to singe it a little, and in this state they commit it to the waters. Indeed it hap- pens not unfrequently, that bodies are thrown into the river without being even scorched. When a Hindoo, who resides near the banks of the Ganges, becomes dangerously ill, some of his nearest relations carry him off* upon his bed, which they place far enough into the river to ad- mit of the water touching his feet : and thus they await his dissolution. So soon as he expires, they stuff* his mouth and ears with mud, and then burn the body. It occasionally happens that a patient recovers after being taken to the Ganges ; and if he is a native of Berar, or the upper provinces of Hindostan, the relations who have accompanied him to the river, are happy in restoring him to his family ; but on such occasions in Bengal, the wretch is ejected from his family as an outcast. I am told that the village of Chagda, above the town of Hooghly, contains many such outcasts*. " In taking leave of this subject, I may just glance at another nearly allied to it, which is the. practice of burning widows on the funeral piles of their departed husbands, not with the intention of Q6 journey from INDIA to BRITAIN. Alondai/, loili. — The weather had cleared up, and thus promised a more agreeable continuation of my passage down the Ganges, than the last few days had afforded. introducing any observations of my own, (as it is quite foreign to the object of ray Journal to enlarge on a topic which has been so fully discussed by other wTiters, both in a moral and political view,) but merely that I may have an opportunity of laying before the reader a very interesting article on that melancholy subject, which appeared in the Calcutta Journal of 11th April, 1819. " BURNING OF WIDOWS. " Several months ago, in the vicinity of Chandernagore, a female victim was immolated on the funeral pile, under circumstances pe- culiarly affecting. She was a young woman who had been recently betrothed to a young man of the same town. Every thing was pre- pared for the celebration of the nuptials, whicli had been fixed for the next day ; the relatives of both parties had arrived from a dis- tance to honour the marriage with their presence ; the circle of their friends already enjoyed in anticipation the festivities which the ap- proaching day would usher in. On the preceding evening, however, the bridegroom was taken ill of the cholera morbus, and in a few hours was a Ufeless corpse. Information being conveyed of the me- lancholy event to the bride, she instantly declared her determination to ascend the funeral pile of her betrothed lord ; a long debate was hereon held between tlie relations of the bride and the priests respect- ing the legality of the act ; the result of which was, that in such cases tlie shasters considering the bride as bound to her liusband by the vow slie had taken, permitted a voluntary innnolation on the funeral pile. The next day, therefore, instead of the music and joy which had been anticipated, the bride was led to the banks of the Ganges, amid the silent grief of her friends and relatives, and burnt with the dead body of her intended husband. " AV'e have heard tliat anollier of those abominable h\mian sacrifi- ficcs took ])lacc on 'J'uesday last, at (-'hitpoor ; tlie victim being a young widow of 2i years of age ! We arc informed, too, that an equally horrid exhibition, called the Churuck Poojah, in which the mofit cruel tortures are self-infhrfed by fanatical devntcrs, is to take PATNA. 27 Tuesday, Wih. — After spending a couple of days very agreeably with my friend Lieutenant Craigie, I left Bankeypore at day-break, and pass- place to-day, xindcr a Christian government ! and on the festival of Easter ! while we are actually celebrating the resurrection of the Sa- viour of the world ! " On this occasion we cannot refrain from giving insertion to the following letter, to shew, that while Christians are thus indifferent to the execution of those cruel and bloody rites, a large and powerful class of Hindoos themselves are shocked at the practice, as being no- thing short of wilful and deliberate murder !" to the editor of the ixdia gazette. " Sir, " Without wishing to stand forward either as the advocate or op- ponent of the concremation of widows with the bodies of their de- ceased husbands, but ranking myself among Brahmins who consider themselves bound by their birth, to obey the ordinances and maintain the correct observance of Hindoo law, I deem it proper to call the attention of the public to a point of great importance now at issue amongst the followers of that law, and upon the determination of which, the lives of thousands of the female sex depend. In the year 1818, a body of Hindoos prepared a petition to govern- ment, for the removal of the existing restrictions on burning widows, in cases not sanctioned by any Shastur, while another body petitioned for at least farther restrictions, if not the total abrogation of the prac- tice, upon the ground of its absolute illegality. Some months ago, too, Bykunthnauth Banoorjee, secretary to the Brahmyn or Unitarian Hindoo community, published a tract in Bungala, a translation of which, into English, is also before the public, wherein he not only maintains that it is the incumbent duty of Hindoo widows to live as ascetics, and thus acquire divine abscrpticn, but expressly accuses those who bind down a widow with the corpse of her husband, and also use bamboos to press her down and prevent her escape, should she attempt to fly from the flaming pile, as guilty of deliberate wo- man murder " In support of this charge, as well as of his declaration of the il- S8 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. ed the city of Patna, which is one of the largest on this side of India, extending for several miles along the right bank of the Ganges. It is a very legality of the practice generally, he has adduced strong arguments, founded upon the authorities considered the most sacred. " This tract, we hear, lias been generally circulated in Calcutta, and its vicinity, and has also been submitted to several Pundits of the Zillah and provincial courts in Bengal, through their respective judges and magistrates. It is reported, too, that consequent to the appearance of that publication, some Brahmins of learning were re- quested by their wealthy followers to reply to that treatise, and I was therefore in sanguine expectation that the subject would undergo a thorough investigation. " This report has now entirely subsided, and the practice of burn- ing widows is still carried on, and in the manner which has been de- clared illegal and murderous. At this I cannot help astonishment ; as I am at a loss to conceive how persons can reconcile themselves to the stigma of being accused of woman murder, without attempting to shew the injustice of the charge; or, if they find themselves unquali- fied to do that, without at least ceasing to expose themselves to the reiteration of such a charge by further perseverance in similar con- duct. I feel also both surprise and regret that European gentlemen, who boast of the humanity and morality of their religion, should con- duct themselves towards persons who submit quietly to the imputa- tion of nmrder, with the same politeness and kindness as they would shew to the most respectable persons ; I however nnist call on those Baboos and Pundits either to vindicate their conduct by the sacred authorities, or to give up all claims to be considered as adherents of the Shasturs ; as, if they do not obey written law, they nmst be look- ed upon as followers of blind and changeable custom, which deserves no nujre to be regarded with respect in this instance, than in the case of child iiiurdir at Gunga Sag\ir, which has long ago been suppressed by governuunt. " III iUUlUHANUKl)." Miirch 27, 181H. It is surely impossible for any Christian to read this letter, without concurring in the admirnblc observations of this enlightened Brahmin. i. FUTWAH. 20 populous place, with a considerable trade. Opium, which is so valuable an article for exportation, is cultivated chiefly in the adjacent provinces, and is brought to the agent of the government here. Many boats are built at this city, and it enjoys a pretty extensive trade in wax candles, table cloths, napkins, and household furniture. I soon reached Futwah, a small village a few miles below Patna, where there is a great manu- facture of table linen carried on. Here I bought six dozen of fine napkins, and fifteen coarse towels, for 17 rupees, (L.2. 2s. 6d.) The Pompon joins the Ganges immediately above this village. Though a small river, it was so much swelled by the late rains, that it rushed like a torrent into the Ganges. Just above their junction, a bridge is thrown over it. I remained at Futwah the greater part of the day, and came to, about four miles below it, in the evening. Wednesday^ IJth. — We pushed off early ; a light easterly wind, which blew all the morning, abated about noon, and, as the current of the river was remarkably strong from the late rains, we soon came in sight of the Curruck-pore Hills, which form tlie commencement of a wide range of beautiful scenery. I have already had occasion so JOURNEY FROxM INDIA TO UKITAIN. to remark, that the shores of the Ganges are generally tame and uninteresting. I remained for the night at a place within sight of the old fort of Monghir. Thursday t 18///. — Passing Monghir, I went on to the hot well called the Seetacoond, where I filled twelve dozen of bottles with its water, which is con- sidered well adapted for long voyages. During the rainy and cold seasons in this country, (from July to the end of February,) the well or spring is at a heat of, I think, 1-iO' of the common thermo- meter. For the remaining four months of the year, March, April, IMay, and June, when the weather is very hot and dry, this spring remains cool. There are three springs of cold water close to it: and all within half a mile of the river. The waters of the Seetacoond are considered sa- cred by the Hindoos, and many idle Brahminical priests live by the collections they levy upon visitors to the spring. I left this place at three P. j\r. and came to at Jauguira at night. Friday, \9th. — I passed Boglipoor in the fore- noon, and reached the ghaut at Colgong at tliree o'clock, when I went to the house of my friend Mr. William Shaw, by whom I was treated with great kindness and attention. This gentleman is engaged in ihc indigo line. COLGOXG RAJEMAL. 31 Saturday, ^Oth. — I went out with Mr. Shaw this morning to the neighbouring country, of which we had a most advantageous view from the top of an eminence. The day was clear, and I have seldom seen a more luxuriant landscape than was extend- ed before us. At this place, during the present season, the waters of the Ganges are kept within rather a nar- row bed, and the current is very rapid, dashing with considerable violence against two rocks of a sugar-loaf shape, which are in the middle of the river. Sunday, 21sL — I got under weigh at an early hour, with a strong westerly wind, which greatly expe- dited the progress of my boat. Terriagully and Secligully passes were soon astern, and I reached Rajemal at sunset. I went to see the ruins of a palace there, but could discover little worth no- tice, save some pillars of a fine-grained black mar- ble. Monday^ Q2d. — At eleven o'clock this morning I bade adieu to the main body of the Ganges, and entered that branch of it which passes Moorsheda- bad and Calcutta j the upper part of which is call- ed the Cassimbazar river, and the lower the Hoo- ghly. I brought up for the night near the village of Sooty. 32 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Tuesday^ 23d. — I proceeded in my course until I reached the large town of Moorshedabad, where I met my friend Lieutenant Trotter, of His Ma- jesty's Light Dragoons, with wliom I spent the af- ternoon. Wednesday, QUh. — I passed the cantonment of Burhampoor, at eight o'clock, A. M. and moored at night near Plassey, where Lord Clive gained for the British the sovereignty of Bengal, by the victory he obtained in June l?^?? over the treach- erous army of Suraja Dowla. Thursday, 25th. — Passed Ahgadeep in the after- noon. The river is so much of a serpentine, and lias so little of a current, that, after a day of la- hour, night found us but a few miles in a direct line from where we started in the morning. To come down the river is not attended with great difficulty, as the stream assists so power- i'uUy J but I have never seen any class of men un- dergo greater fatigue than the boatmen of the Ganges, when proceeding upwards. If they iiave not then a strong wind in tlicir favour, they are obliged to drag the boats up by lopes fastened to the mast-head ; and tliey have Irequenlly to pass shallows when they arc wading uj) to the knee in mud, and up to the middle in water, while, at the same time, they are e\})osed to the rays of a burn- NUDDEA. as ing sun. They live chiefly upon curry and rice, rarely making use of spirits. Friday, ^26th. — People residing near the river are obliged to pay great attention to its banks, as they often fall in, and thus whole fields of indigo, which promised a rich harvest to the planter, are inundated, and all his hopes blasted in a few hours. When I passed Nuddea this afternoon, I observed a building, with a colonnade of sixteen arches at- tached to it, part of which has been already carried away, and the rest is likely to follow during the next rainy season, when the river rises, which it of- ten does, very suddenly above the town of Culna. Saturday J Tith, — We came to at noon, opposite a very handsome country seat called Sooksagur, the property of Mr. Baretto, a merchant of Cal- cutta. As we were now within the influence of the tides, I was obliged to stop here a few hours, to allow the crew to prepare a kind of anchor, which they make out of a few bamboos, with stones fixed in the centre of them, and fastened with mat- ting and string ; a clumsy contrivance, indeed, but sufficient for the purpose. Sunday, Q8th. — Passing the French settlement of Chandernagore, and the Danish of Serampoor, on the right, with the British cantonment of Bar- rackpoor, and the Governor-General's country re- D S4> JOURNEY 1R0:M INDIA TO BIUTAIN. sidence on the left bank of the river, we came in sight of tiie city and shipping of Calcutta at eleven o'clock, A. M. I landed about o?ie, and went to the house of Messrs. Steu'art and Robertson, two gentlemen in the mercantile line, by whom I was most hospitably entertained during my sojourn in Calcutta. As I had a prospect of remaining here some time, until Mr. Law could join me, my regular diary suffered a temporary interruption; but I shall now endeavour to give the reader some idea of this celebrated city. Calcutta lies in latitude 22° S3', and longitude 88° 28'. Its local situation is bad, being surround- ed by jungles and muddy lakes; but of late years much has been done to render it healthy, by drain- ing and clearing the swamps, kc. ; and a large SLun of money, accruing from a lottery, is now an- nually expended, under the direction of commis- sioners appointed to improve and beautify the city. Even, within these ten years, very great improve- ments have been made, by the digging of tanks and drains, and making of roads and bridges. The appearance of Calcutta from Garden-Reach astonishes a stranger approaching from the sea. The garden-houses, on botli sides of the river, are elegant, beyond which, tlie spires of" the churches, temples, minarets, Fort-\\ illiam, the shipping op- CALCUTTA. 35 posite the city and Chouringee, all combined, form a magnificent prospect. At the extremity of the glacis of Fort- William, to the north and east, and at a distance of 1500 yards from the crest, are the court-house, the town-hall, and the government-house, or palace of the Go- vernor-General, with other buildings, which form the front of the European part of Calcutta on that side. The native part of the city extends along the banks of the river towards the north for sev^e- ral miles, varying in breadth at different parts. On the eastern side of Fort-William lies that part of the city which is called Chouringee, and which consists of many beautiful houses, almost deser- ving the name of palaces, with elegant open ve- randas, supported on pillars, and surrounded by gardens ; so that each house has a fine open space all round, which is particularly desirable in a warm climate. Chouringee is inhabited chiefly by people of the first distinction, and the rent of a pretty good house is not less than 400 rupees a month, (L.48.) Inferior houses may be had for 250, and the very best will rent as high as 550 or 600 rupees. Each house has a range of out-offices, consisting of kit- chen, stables, servants' houses, &c. Calcutta is at present in a highly flourishing D 2 36 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. state, and becoming more populous and wealthy every day. I have never seen any return of" its population from good authority, but, including the suburbs, I have heard it estimated at 1, '200,000 souls; which I think must be an exaggeration. Many of the native inhabitants speak our lan- iiuaire, and are pretty well versed in our laws, which are in force within the limits of the city. They are fond of litigation ; and perjury is a very common crime among them. The rich natives live in large handsome houses, resembling those of the Europeans ; and drive good carriages on springs, built almost as well, and finished in as good style, as if the work had been executed in London. The houses of the lower classes are generally of walls made of bamboos and mats, and thatched Avith straw. Whole ranges of them are burned to the ground almost every month during the hot season. The streets of Calcutta are not paved, yet they arc always kept in the highest order; and some of them are watered daily, particularly that which runs from St. Andrew's Church up to ihe Kidderpore Bridge, where all the beauty and fashion drive in tlieir carriages, or ride on horseback, every even- ing. Fort-William is tlic finest fort in India, and I much question iC one is to be foiuid in any coun- CALCUTTA. 37 try, which is kept in more admirable condition. It is an octagon ; the five flices on the land side be- ing regidar, and the three on the river necessarily accommodating themselves to the circumstances of their situation. The general complaint against this fort is, that it has been built on too extensive a scale, and would require 10,000 men for its de- fence. Indeed, I have even heard it said that 10,000 would be necessary to man the walls, and 30,000 for the proper defence of the fort. It was commenced by Lord Clive soon after the battle of Plassey, and has cost the East India Company two millions Sterling. A native from the north- west provinces thinks little of Fort- William as a place of strength. Being entirely ignorant of the principles of European fortification, he considers it inferior to Allahabad, Agra, or Chunar, which have a more lofty and imposing appearance. The fort is appropriated entirely to military pur- poses. It has six gateways, over which admirable quarters are built for the officers holding the fol- lowing situations, viz. the major-general com- manding the presidency-division of the army, the commandant of artillery, chief engineer, principal commissary of ordnance, the commanding officer of the battalion of his majesty's infantry, and the town-major. Besides the staff and rampart bar- d3 357^ ^'^ S8 JOURNEY FUOM INDIA TO BRITAIN. racks, there are the royal, the north and south bar- racks, which form three sides of a square, all for the accommodation of officers, and extensive ranges for the private soldiery. There is an arsenal on an extensive scale, well supplied with all kinds of mili- tary stores, and a foundery for casting brass can- non. The garrison usually consists of a battalion of the Ring's infantry, and 1^200 men of the Honour- able Company's Native Infantry, which are detach- ed monthly from Barrackpoor, about sixteen miles distant, where four battalions are cantoned ; all of which, together with the artillery at the head- quarters of that corps at Dum-Dum, seven miles distant, arc considered the troops of the garrison of Fort' William, when required. There are five roads from both tlic above men- tioned cantonments to the fort, into which the troops might march on the shortest notice at any season of the year. Above and below Fort William, there arc exten- sive dock-yards on both sides of the river, in which ships of the largest size are built. In the yard of Messrs Kyd & Co. the Hastings of 7^ guns was buih a lew years ago. Tlicre were, in the year 1817, 154 ships belong- ing to the Port of Calcutta, amounting to upwards of 53,000 tons. CALCUTTA. 3[) January 8, 18^20. — I remained in Calcutta since the last date in my Journal, enjoying the society and amusements of that splendid metropolis of the East. The Honourable Mr. Law havingjoined me some days ago, we embarked this morning on board a trading vessel called the Ann, command- ed by Captain Dickie, and bound for Bombay. We passed the country seats of many wealthy citi- zens of Calcutta, on the left bank of the river, and the Company's extensive botanical gardens on the right. At half past four o'clock, P. M. we came to an- chor a few miles below the gardens, as the tide had turned, and the wind was insufficient to carry us forward against it. Sunday, 9th. — We got under weigh early, and worked down, in the course of the day, to a place a few miles below Budje-Budje. Monday, lOt/i. Passed Fultah tavern at 1 1, A. M. We had a pilot on board, and Captain Dickie had not yet joined. The crew appeared to be very in- different, almost all Asiatics, with the exception of the Captain and two mates j the ship was register- ed at 405 tons burthen. Tuesday, llth. — Passed Fort Mornington and Tumlook early this morning, wiih a fair wind ; the Captain came on board before breakfast, and the 40 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Honourable iNIr. Elphinstone, of the Bengal civi. service, late last night ; besides that gentleman, Colonel M'Clintock, of the Bombay army, Major Charles Ridge, 4th Bengal cavalry, Mr. Assistant Surgeon Thomson, Mr. Law and I were passen- gers. We came to anchor this evening a few miles below Diamond Harbour. Wednesday, 12th. — A foul wind prevented our getting beyond the Kidgeree light-house to-day, and we cast anchor abreast of it in the afternoon. Thursday, I3th. — Passed the Baring, a British Indiamen, and a Danish and Portuguese ship at anchor, in Sagor roads, also the Aseer Ghur Pilot schooner. Our pilot, Mr. Black, left us at ten o'clock, P. M. and after six days working down with the tides, we were now clear of the river, the na- vigation of which is extremely intricate, from the numerous sand banks which are constantly shifting. Friday 14/A. — A fine fair breeze carried us along, at the rate of six or seven miles an hour ; and at noon we were 38 miles from the sand heatls. Saturday, 1 5th. — By observation at noon, this day, we were in latitude 19°; the wind was still fair, and our course south-south-west. Sunday, 1 ()///. — Course the same as yesterday. At noon we were in latitude 17" '-il'. Monday, IJth. — Saw a strange sail this morning. BAY OF BENGAL. 41 supposed to be the ship Volunteer, bound for Bussorah, which left Calcutta two days before us, and appeared very heavily laden. The weather was very fine, but the wind not quite so strong as we could have wished ; at noon, this day, we were in latitude 16° 14' and longitude 86' 14' east of Greenwich. Tuesday y 18th. — The wind having freshened, we were, at noon to-day, in longitude 85^ IS', and lati- tude .14° 20'. Wednesday, I9ih. — Delightful weather — We were as comfortable on board as the Captain could make us. We had indeed a motley crew, consisting of Portuguese (Indian born,) China men, Malays, and Bengal Mussulmen Lascars. Thursday, QOfh. Mild weather, perhaps too much so, as a little more wind would have enabled us to make a more speedy passage. By observa- tion at noon, we were in latitude 10° 15', and lon- gitude 83° 54'. Friday, Qlsf. The wind had freshened, and the ship had been running seven or eight miles an hour ; when it was discovered at noon that we were in lati- tude 7° 56', and longitude 8S° 3', our course was al- tered to south-west, that we might make some part of the coast of Ceylon. A good many flying fish had been about the ship this day. They are generally i'2 JOURNEY FliOM INDIA TO BRITAIN. about the size of a trout, and fly but a short dis- tance along the surface of the waves. Land in sight on the starboard beam, at half past five P. jm. Satui^day, ^2Qd, — A strong wind against us ; at noon we were in latitude 5" 54'. Dondra Head, in the island of Ceylon, in sight ; and, in the after- noon, the wind became light and variable. Sunday ^23d. — Several ships were in sight ; and we were within a few miles of the shore, with Point de Galle on our starboard bow. Many cata- marans with fruits, eggs, and fish, came alongside ; they consist of a large trunk of a tree hollowed out, having sides of wood strongly bound upon it, with lashings of string, and a plank as an out- rigger on one side, by which the catamaran is Ba- lanced. The Ceylonese and Malays are very dex- terous in the management of them, and often ven- ture far out to sea. Monday, ^Uh. — A good deal of swell and con- trary winds checked our progress for the last !21< hours ; and we were at noon only 'JO miles west of Point de Callc. Tuesday, '25l!i. — A contrary wind while we were standing across the Gulf of Manaar. The rolling ol" the ship had made me (piite sick to-day. Wednesday, '2f)th. — A heavy sea and a foul wind. GULF or .AIANAAU. 43 Mr. Law and myself having been unable to procure cabins, we were obliged to put up our beds in the steerage. Mine could only be fixed athwart the ship, which had been lying over so much for the last two nights, that I may say I slept almost stand- ing ; and the creaking of the rudder rope, which run in a block immediately above my head, was most annoying. Thursday y 9!Jth. — Land in sight at the dawn of day, Brinjall Hill on the starboard beam ; and the lofty Ghaut mountains were seen towering to the clouds. After an interval of calm, the sea breeze set in at half-past 2, P. M. and carried us along very pleasantly. Friday, Q8th. — When off Aleppee this morning, we passed the Honourable Company's extra ship Barossa, bound for England, and out 19 days from Bombay, with 29 passengers on board. The cap- tain of the Barossa came on board the Ann, and gave us intelligence of the capture of Ras ul Kyma, the principal strong hold of the Arab pirates in the Persian gulf, by the British troops under the command of Sir William Keir. At sunset we were abreast of Cochin. Saturday, 29/^.— Though our progress was not rapid, our voyage was by no means unpleasant. About noon day at this season of the year, on 44 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN". the Malabar coast, the sea breeze begins to blow, and generally continues until eight o'clock, P. M, when it subsides, and is soon succeeded by a wind from the land, which blows all night, and until about noon the following day. Passed Calicut in the evening. Sunday^ 30th. — Light winds. In the afternoon we passed the French settlement of Mahe, and the British stations of Tellicherry and Cananore ; but at too great a distance to see much of them. jMonday^ Slst. — A fine wind brought us on smart- ly ; and we arrived in Mangalore roads, and cast anchor opposite to the flag-staff at sunset. A boat from the shore brought off some papers for the captain's signature and remarks. February, 18^20. Tuesday, 1st. — Lieutenant Co- lonel Grant, C. 13. deputy commissary-general of the Madras army, and Lieutenant Anderson of the Bombay marine, master attendant at Manga- lore, came on board and breakfasted witli us. All the passengers received a very polite invita- tion from Colonel Grant to return with liim on shore, and to spend tiic day at his house ; but a fine breeze of wind had just sprung up, which in- duced us to decline his kind invitation. At 10 o'clock, A. M. wewcigiicd anchor, stood out to sea, and in a few hours lost sight of Mangalore. Wednesday, '2d. — Tt rained a good deal last niglil. MALABAR COAST. 45 and this morning we had little wind, but a vile ground-swell, in which we tossed about all day be- tween the Hog and Pigeon islands- Thursday, 3d. — Pigeon island still in sight ; and the prospect we once had of a speedy termination to our voyage now entirely vanished. Friday, 4}th. — Light baffling winds still prevail- ed ; and we were obliged to keep crawling along this coast, which presents very few interesting ob- jects. Saturday, 5th. — Our progress still very slow. In the afternoon we were close in shore, and saw se- veral convents peeping through groves of cocoa- nut trees, all along the coast : we were now but a few miles from Goa, the old Portuguese settlement on which all those establishments depend. Sunday, 6th. — We stood far out to sea this morn- ing, but made very little progress in our proper course. In the evening we were within a couple of miles of Goa, and could see the lights on shore. It is no doubt necessary that masters and officers of ships at sea should have the power of inflicting trifling punishments -when they are deserved j but I fear it is a power which is liable to much abuse. On board our ship, for instance, when a man does not immediately do what he is ordered, a rope's end is applied to his back, although his non-com- 4(; JOURNEY l-ROM INDIA TO URlTAiN. pliance more frequently arises from ignorance of what is wanted, than disinclination to do it. Mondai/y '}lh. — The wind was directly from the quarter to which we wislied to advance. In the evening we spoke two ships out only a couple of days from Bombay, Tuesday, Sth. — A heavy swell which we expe- rienced to-day, would have prevented our doing much, even had the wind been as favourable as it happened to be contrary. Wednesdayy {)tJi. — This day our prospect was ra- ther more cheering ; the swell had abated, and the wind veered round sufficiently to admit of our standing on our course along shore. Geriah, the once famous nest of pirates, which was taken in 17'^0 by Lord Clive and Admiral Watson, was at noon on the starboard beam, and distant about three leati^ues. Thursdaij, \Oth. Friday, Wth. Saturday, 12///. — Calms and light winds had rendered our progress very slow. AVe were at noon this day within one degree of Bombay. A great number of large-sized boats are hire employed in the coasting trade; about ^0 of them were generally to be seen in shore of us at once. Mondial, I J///.— Tlic light-iiousc of Bombay was BOMBAY. 47 in sight at 10 o'clock, A. M. ; in a few hours more the shipping were seen in the harbour, and a pilot came on board. At three o'clock in the afternoon, Mr. Thomson and I accompanied the Honourable Mr. Elphin- tone ashore. We went direct to the government- house in the fort, where we found a carriage in waiting to convey us to the country residence of the Governor, at Malabar Point, where we arrived about seven in the evening. The view of Bombay, on entering the harbour, is extremely picturesque. On the left is the for- tified town of Bombay, with its barracks, public buildings, &:c. ; on the right there are several is- lands, and the Maharatta shores, which have a fine effect. The harbour is remarkably good, and ad- mirably adapted for trade, having good wharfs, wet docks, warehouses with cranes, &c. I presented a letter of introduction I had re- ceived from Mr. Charles Metcalfe, one of the se- cretaries of the supreme government, to his Ex- cellency the Governor, by whom we were most politely received. Tuesday i \5th, — Malabar Point is one of two country residences of the Governor. The house is small, but the situation delightful, as it stands at the extremity of a tongue of land, which juts into the sea upwards of a mile, and where you en- 48 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BKITAIX. joy a cool sea !)reezc, which must always be a most desirable object in so warm a climate. As I found it was probable we might be detain- ed some time at Bombay, I discontinued my diary. On the 21st of February, I went to reside with my friend Mr. Theodore Forbes, of the firm of Forbes & Co. At this gentleman's house I met my bro- ther, AVilliam James Lumsden, who went out as a uritevy and now holds an important office in the civil service of this presidency. I had not seen him for more than twelve years. Such were the effects of our long separation, which commenced when we were mere school-boys, that I did not recoo-nise my brother when he first accosted me. Like myself, he had endured the scorching of a tropical sun for a few years preceding ; and had he not been led to expect me, I presume we should have passed each otlier, without supposing that we were at all related. The emotions we mutually experienced, on recognising each other, can only be conceived by those who have been placed in similar circumstances. Bombay is a large, trading, fortified town, crowd- ed with buildings of all kinds, and the little inte- rior space now left open, is at this season of the year covered with bales of cotton. Tiie island of Bombay is about ten miles in length by lliHH> in breadth, with a xQvy good road from BOMBAY. 49 one end of it to the otlier, besides various cross roads all kept in good repair. The first objects, which particularly attracted my attention, were the wooden houses, with verandas and pillars of the same, thus giving the buildings a mean appearance. Such, I am told, were the first houses of the Portuguese, and their plan has been followed up by the Parsees, who possess a monopoly of houses, as well as of many other things, here. The forests on the coast of Malabar supply the Bombay dock-yards with teak wood, which is deem- ed superior to the oak for naval architecture, as it is supposed to retain an oil which prevents insects from attacking the wood, and saves iron from rust- ing. Many shipsofwar have been built here; among others the Minden 74 ; and there is one now on the stocks. The manner of living among the English gen- tlemen of Bombay is different from what it is in Calcutta. Fewer servants are kept ; but those few receive much higher wages. The supplies for the table are of an inferior description to what they are in Bengal, yet much higher priced. It is remarkable that, although Bombay has been in the possession of the British for a century and a half, there is no such thing as good boots or shoes manufactured at this settlement j while, on the 50 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. other side of India, there is a capital manufacture of them, not only at Calcutta, but at some of the upper stations. I have been led to make this re- mark, fiom a gentleman's having asked me soon after I landed, what I considered at the time an extraordinary question, viz. whether the captain of the ship in which I came, had brought an invest- ment of boots and shoes from Calcutta. I experienced a good deal of attention from se- veral gentlemen during my residence here ; and among the number I am bound to particularise Captain Miller of the Bombay Regiment of Ar- tillery, to whom I was an entire stranger. The present governor of Bombay, the Honour- able Mountstuart Elphinstone, is very popular, and most deservedly so, being a man whose distinguish- ed character and eminent talents have raised him to his exalted station, and obtained for him the un- qualified approbation of his countrymen both at liomc and abroad. Bombay is a very thriving place, and is said to contain i'00,000 souls. I have remarked a great- er variety in the costumes of the people in the streets here, than in any other town I have seen in India. Those ])eople are Parsces, Arabians, Per- sians, Chinese, Portuguese and Jews, together with tlie natives of all casts and countries under the vast empire ol" the J5ritish in India. A colony of BOMBAY. 51 Paisees are settled at Bombay, who were driven from Persia on account of their religion. Tliey are an active bustling race, though they cannot be called a higii-minded people, being neither learned nor warlike ; but they are excellent men of busi- ness, and enter deeply into mercantile speculations with some of the first European merchants at Bom- bay. They are also admirable mechanics, and vie with Europeans in the art of ship-building. The Parsees worship fire, and keep the sacred flame con- stantly burning in their temples. I had a strong desire to see one of their ceme- teries, but I was given to understand that they have an aversion to strangers seeing them. I may, however, give some account of the cemetery on Ma- labar Hill, as I have heard it described on undoubt- ed authority. It is about fifty-five feet in diame- ter, twenty-five feet high, and open at the top, to within five feet of which it is filled up, with the exception of a well of fifteen feet diameter in the centre. The part filled up is terraced with a decli- vity towards the well. This terrace is divided into three circles, having grooves running from them to the well, to carry off the water. The bodies of men are laid in the outer circle, those of children in the next, and those of women in the centre, all wrapped loosely in cloth, and left to be devoured by vultures and other birds, which are E 2 52 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. always in waiting for their prey. When the bones havebeen thus picked, the relations of the deceased, or keepers of the sepulchre, throw them into the well. There are subterranean passages that lead to the bottom of this well, by which the bones are removed, to prevent its being filled up. The wives of the native inhabitants of Bombay appear to enjoy a greater degree of freedom, being less secluded from the world, than is customary among the natives in the Bengal provinces. Two- wheeled carriages, with one horse, are here very common, and the Parsees drive about in very good buggies. The wheels of every description of carriage have iron streaks, on account of the hard- ness of the roads. The bullocks driven in carts are much more beautiful than those of Bengal, where they are generally of a dirty cream colour ; here they are beautifully marked, and of all colours, like those of Europe. On the lnty miles four finlongs. I'or the first four miles the road was trooil, afterwards wc were obli- kauzeroon. 81 ged to dismount, and scramble across rocks and stones for several miles ; and, by the aid of the moon, we overcame difficulties that would other- wise have required day light. The nights were cool and the mornings delightful. We sent a letter on to a man at Kauzeroon, to whom we had been recommended by Captain Bruce. He came out and met us some miles from the town, and conducted us to a garden, in which there were two houses, where we took up our abode. This place is the property of the gover- nor of Kauzeroon ; the room in which we break- fasted was over the gateway of the garden, and had painted glass windows to the north and south. Af- ter breakfast we removed to the opposite end of the garden, where there was a larger house, con- sisting of an open room in the centre, with passa- ges on its right and left, and on each side of those, neat rooms, about 24.by 16 feet, with Gothic painted glass windows, recesses in the walls, and an arched roof. The great want of wood fit for building, must have led the Persians to construct vaulted roofs, which are universal in this part of the coun- try. Between the two houses there is a fine grove of orange trees, which were in full foliage, with the fruit just formed. It affords a delightful shade during the day : and the notes of the black-bird and thrush, which I had not heard for many years, G 82 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. rendered it a delightful retirement. Snow was vi- sible on the top of one of the mountains a few miles distant. Friday^ 5th. — Leaving all superfluous baggage at Kauzeroon, we set off at break of day for the purpose of viewing the ruins of Shahpoor ; at seven miles distance we passed the ruinous vil- lage of Deres, and saw on the way some fine flocks of sheep and goats, the former of the Doomba (large-tailed) breed, and the latter small, with long hair and horns, similar to the Barbary goats. Before we reached the ruins of Shahpoor, distant about 1.5 miles from Kauzeroon, I observed the myrtle growing wild and very luxuriant. The first view you have of the ruins is not very striking. The city lies on the left of the road, and, from a height, you can trace what appears to have been its limits, encompassing a space of about seven miles in circumference. Shahpoor is altoge- ther too much of a ruin ; here and there only a fragment of masonry is visible in the midst of heaps of stones, on which time has scarcely left a trace of human art. On the opposite side of the road to the town, the remains of a fort are vi- sible upon a rock, one end of which nearly ap- proaches a stream, and the ruins of towers, with curtains connecting them, arc distinctly to be SHAHPOOR. S3 seen. The other end of the rock, on which tlie fort was constructed, appears to have been cut oft] partly by nature and partly by art, from the main range of hills, which we had on our right all the morning. On advancing as far as the stream of Shahpoor, we wound round the fort to the right, when the scene became varied and grand. We were then in a valley, having high, abrupt, black rocks on both sides, divided by the rapid river which rushed over a rocky bed, now to be seen and again lost among the willows which grew on its banks. After pass- ing the fort, our guide led us to look at the famous sculpture on the rock to the right, which is sup- posed to commemorate the triumph of the Persian king Shahpoor over the Roman Emperor Vale- rian. The king is on horseback, with the figure of a crown, surmounted by a globe on his head ; a Roman, extended on his back, is under the horses feet ; and the emperor, kneeling on one knee, in an attitude of submission, with a helmet on his head, and in the Roman costume, is immediately in front. Many Persian cavalry and infantry are introduced in close order above, and to the right and left of these the principal figures ; and victory is displaying the scroll of fame over the king. This sculpture has some merit, though the proportions are not well preserved, the horse being too small G 2 84 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. for the figure of the king. — The rock consists of coarse jasper, and admits of a fine polish. We saw several tablets of sculpture on the rocks at the op- posite side of the valley, but a swamp prevented our examining them minutely. M. Morier has given, I think, a very good set of drawings, and faithful descriptions of them all. We went to breakfast on a small island formed by the Shahpoor river in the valley; and were seated under the shade of a tree, with the waters dashing over the rocks on both sides of us, when a Persian chief suddenly appeared within a few yards of the spot where we rested. He was dressed in a dark green habit, completely equipped for the chace, and attended by three or four armed horsemen, and se- ven or eight couple of greyhounds. He had a smart intelligent countenance, rode well, resembling a dashing leader of cavalry, and, when viewed in combination with tlie surrounding scenery, there was something peculiarly interesting and romantic in his appearance. On seeing us he did not hesi- tate, but plunged into the stream, rode up to our breakfast-table, and threw himself from his horse. We gave him a scat, and he immediately began a conversation, in the language of tlie country, with Dr. Lumsden, telling him that Captain Bruce had written to liiin about us, otherwise he would not have come down. We gave him tea to drink, and SHAnrooR. 85 a calyoon to smoke; he then invited and insist- ed on our accompanying him to his fort. After a little hesitation we accepted this proposal. The breakfast things were but just removed from the table, when our new friend asked us if we had any wme ; and, on a bottle of Shirauz being produced, notwithstanding its being strictly prohibited in the Koran, he tossed off a few bumpers before we mounted. We were winding up the glen, and but a short way from where we had breakfasted, when my servant, who had been sent out with a little money to purchase supplies, returned to tell us that he had been robbed and beaten by a band of marauders. The scenery as we passed along was bold and majestic ; as to road we had none, some- times we were wandering along the sides of the hills, over crags and stones, at other times splash- ing through swamps and long grass by the river side. The Persians do not manage their horses par- ticularly well, but they gallop and tear away over stones and every thing, quite regardless of the animals feet and their own necks. I may here take an opportunity of mentioning, that in Persia there are no wheeled carriages, and that the roads in general are exceedingly bad. In the afternoon our new guide brought us to a place called Rura- g3 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. joon, where we beheld a beautiful piece of water, clear as crystal, shaded by some noble trees, and near the base of a hill to the west. On a fine green sod at the head of the spring, a carpet was spread in the shade, in the centre of which an en- tertainment was displayed on a cloth, to partake of which we sat down on the carpet. The repast consisted of bread and butter, honey and milk, with small pieces of mutton roasted on a spit, and brought in " hot and hot." As we were sitting o?i the table, (if I may so speak,) eating every thing with our fingers, and making large pieces of the bread serve us for plates, while we drank butter milk out of a large wooden ladle, each in his turn, the combination produced a singular impression. The scene was to us quite novel ; it was rural, in the strictest sense of the word, and such as to afford a genuine exhibition of the j)ci^toral, or rather the hunting state of society. Our horses grazed around us, while the wearied hounds of the chief lay in every direction. > Our entertainment concluded with music, from a shrill- toned j)ij)c, a trumpet and small drums, to which a boy danced and siuig ; but I can neither commend the decency of the dance, nor the melody of the voice. As a finish to this concert, a wild martial sort ol* :iir was performed l)y the musicians, when our host rose and called for his matchlock gun j he NODOON. 87 then threw a pomegranate into the water, and, at the second shot, with a ball, he split the fruit into a thousand pieces, at a distance of about 15 yards. When we withdrew, the remnants of the feast were left to our attendants. After the shooting, we caught and bridled our horses, and mounting, proceeded towards the vil- lage and fort of the chief, whereof we soon had a view on the brow of a hill. We were preceded by the music ; and one of the chief's horsemen, in the hope of commanding admiration, galloped off at full speed over the stones, and turned round and fired his match-lock in the air. I thought no- thing of this fellow's horsemanship, and as little of the management of his arms, as 1 am certain the natives of Hindostan far excel him and his coun- trymen in general, in both. When we reached our host's village of Nodoon, a mob of inhabitants ad- vanced to meet us, and from the general curiosity we excited, it might have been questioned if a European was ever in the place before. Yet it is but a short time since the same chief entertained General Malcolm and his suite. The women sa- luted us with that shrill singing of joy which I have before had occasion to mention. On reaching the chief's house we were fatigued, having spent a great part of the day on horse- back. We did not, therefore, relish much be- 88 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. ing paraded on the top of a house, as a sort ol spectacle for the gaping mob. Having however endured this ceremon}? for a time, we intimated a wish to be indulged with a little more privacy j and, on being conducted to the top of another house, which had a screen of masonry all round, and which appeared to be part of the chief's harem, we were in great hopes that we might be allowed to retire to rest, when we were told that a dinner was preparing for us ; and rather than affront our entertainer, we waited and sat down to dinner with him. We here enjoyed a little comfort, having our own table, chairs, plates, &c. ; but when our host proposed a repetition of the music, and hinted that he could drink a bot- tle of Shirauz, such as we had then on the table (equal to two English quarts) at night, and half a bottle in the morning, our polite- ness could carry us no farther; and we posi- tively declined putting him to the test, or sitting up longer with him. By thus being half rude we were permitted to extend ourselves on the carpets antl go to sleep, with heaven for a canopy over our heads. Saturday^ Gth. — Before the dawn of day, when we began to move, a servant, by order of the cliicl, ]>rcpared a (piantity of bread for us, and at day-break, when we took leave of our host, lie was evidently (lis))lcascd at our having deserted SHAHPOOR. 89 him the night before. He was liowever still po- lite, and gave lis a horseman and four men on foot, to shew us the way, and assist us in explor- ing the caverns of Shahpoor. So soon as we had an opportunity after leaving Nodoon, we asked to whom we were indebted for our night's lodging, and were not a little asto- nished to find that our host was Meershumes ud Deen, a daring chief of considerable power, who had ceased to pay his tribute, had killed several men who were despatched to him for it, and had even resisted a military force sent against him by his immediate governor, the prince of Shirauz. At this time, therefore, he was living in a state of open defiance and rebellion against his lawful su- perior. After a ride of a few miles we arrived at the base of the hill, near the summit of which are the caverns of Shahpoor, the most extraordinary sight of the kind I ever beheld. The ascent of the hill is extremely abrupt, and it was not without much labour and difficulty that we at last contrived to scramble up to the mouth of the caverns. The entrance is a grand arch of black rock, of great height, length and breadth, which leads to what may be considered an immense saloon, into which we descended many feet j and when we 90 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. looked round from the bottom, and our eyes be- came familiar with the light which three candles afforded, the natural dome above us resembled a little firmament j while the dark mouths of many caverns were open before us, leading to what may be called the interior chambers of this magnificent subterranean castle, into several of which we pene- trated ; and as the guides passed before us, hold- ing up their candles, which gave such a scanty light, some of the natural dungeons appeared so gloomy as to inspire me with feelings not unmixed with horror. One of the guides, seeing a pigeon perched on a rock above him, shot it through the body with a ball ; and the discharge sounded so loud as to resemble that of a piece of heavy ord- nance. The caverns have never, I believe, been properly explored by any European, and it is impossible to say how far they extend. There are several wells and pools of water in the interior, which obliged us to be cautious in our movements. In the centre of the entrance is a colosal statue, overthrown and mutilated, with a crown on the head, supposed to be that of tlie King Shahj)oor; but I believe this to be mere conjecture. As far as I could judge, the proportions of what remains of the statue ap- peared to be pretty correct. SHAHPOOR. 91 We returned to breakfast, upon the same island on which we were yesterday morning ; and ad- miring tlie marksman who shot the pigeon in the cavern, (a follower of the Chief Meershumes ud Deen,) I took him to the bank of the stream which passed the island, and, by way of a joke, pointed to some small trout that were swimming in it, and asked him to shoot one of them with ball, if he could ', upon which the man, without seeming at all to question the possibility of the thing, fired at one, but missed ; and, thinking the attempt use- less, I left him, but in the course of a few minutes I heard him fire two shots, after which, to my astonishment, the fellow came up to us with two small fishes, one about four, the other about three inches in length, which he had shot with ball, hav« ing carried away the tail of the one, and half the head of the other. Such a quickness of eye is very rarely to be met with. At noon we marched on our return to Kauzeroon, and passed a flight of locusts on our way. This was not a very heavy flight, but I have sometimes seen them advancing like a cloud, and doing great mischief where they settled. On this excursion I observed the myrtle, the almond, the pomegranate, the mint, and the castor-oil plants growing wild in great abundance. I had often heard of the unnatural vices of the Persians, and a circumstance occurred this 92 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. day, which convinced me that their propensities are not less abominable than they have been re- ported. From a regard to decency, I refrain from detailing the particulars. Sunday i '^th. — We arrived at Kauzeroon at sun- set. I here purchased a smart, undersized bay horse, for a sum equal to about L.25 Sterling. It may be useful for any future traveller to know, that mussulman servants are generally to be pro- cured at Bushire, who can speak both the Hin- doostanee and Persian languages ; and, as they are always treated with more respect, they have it in their power to be more useful to their masters than Armenians. Any gentleman following our route will also find the following articles par- ticularly useful to him : a cavalry bridle and saddle complete, with holsters, &c. a carpet to sleep upon, fifteen by seven feet, twenty feet in length of old conants, or walls of a tent, of about five feet high, and made so as to admit of their being divided into four parts. Instead of tumblers and wine glasses, cups ol" silver. A hammer and half a dozen long iron hooks, to fasten up the conants, &c. Monday ^ hth. — The muleteer neglected to bring his iiiulcs until four o'clock, and we could not march in consequence till five A. M. The sun JK'ul long been up before we arrived at the com- KOTUL PEERA ZUN. 9^ mencetnent of the Dochta Pass ; and before we got to the base of the Kotul Peera Zun, it was past ten o'clock, with the sun so powerful that we were fatigued before we reached the caravansera, half way up the pass. Had it not been for a cool refreshing breeze, we might have found this day's journey a distressing one, as we were obliged to walk up all the mountains, and down many parts of them. A good long walking stick is a great help to a man on such occasions. If I may venture to offer another admonition to future tra- vellers at this season of the year, I recommend to them to arrange their hour of marching so as to be at the bottom of the Passes by day-break, unless they have a clear moon-light to enable them to get over partof those passes before that time. This stage of only fifteen miles took us seven hours to accom- plish it, and some of the mules did not join us un- til three P. M. Such are the effects of starting late. The Kotul Peera Zun caravansera at which we had now arrived, was the worst we had yet seen, and so extremely dirty that we preferred the top of it to the rooms below. From this place we had a fine view of mountain scenery. The night was extremely cold. Tuesday^ 9th, — We had a pretty severe tug over the remainder of the Kotul Peera Zun, and then descended into the valley of Dustarjoon, in the 94 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. middle of which there is a fine sheet of water, with many wild fowl. On the left, the valley is bound- ed by a bold chain of rocks, down which many small waterfalls are seen tumbling, and forming beautiful streamlets that run into the vale below. Before you reach the village of Dustarjoon there is a burial place, beyond which many springs issue from the rocks, and form a considerable rivulet, that runs through a clump of trees, after which it passes on to turn four small mills. The distance from the Kotul Peera Zun caravansera to that of Dustaijoon does not exceed twelve miles. The lat- ter is, however, no better than the former. In the course of our journey we had a fine view of one of the peaks of the Kotul Peera Zun covered with snow ; and at half past three o'clock in the after- noon the thermometer stood at 63° in our room. Wednesdaij, lOth — At half past four o'clock I looked at the thermometer before we marched in the morning, and found it down at 61°. I saw some hares, chccorcs (hill partridges,) and large wild pigeons in the course of this day's route. Thursday, 11///. — When we set off) soon after two o'clock this morning, we found the air exceed- ingly cold. We came in sight of Shirauz at eight o'clock. The city lies in a valley, and has not a very shewy api)earance at a distance. We had for- warded Captain lUruce's letters, and several gentle- SHIRAUZ. 95 men came out to meet us. As we approached we found the environs of the city well cultivated, and some beautiful gardens on our left. Shirauz is surrounded by a brick wall, having large bastions at the gateways, of which there are six, and smaller ones at intervals. There are no guns mounted, nor are the works capable of con- taining heavy ordnance. We entered the city soon after nine o'clock, when the heat of the sun was quite overpowering, and were conducted to the house of a Persian gentleman, Mahomed Ally Khan, where we met Dr. Foot of his Majesty's 17th regiment. Our host came to receive us soon after we entered the house He was a fine young man, of a respectable family, and very pleasing and courteous in his manners. Breakfast was serv- ed up to us in the Persian style, but we were in- dulged with a table and chairs. The iced sherbet proved particularly grateful to w^eary and thirsty travellers. The house appropriated for our accom- modation composed one side of a quadrangle, a form of building very frequent in the Hindostanee and Persian cities, to secure privacy to families, which is a primary consideration with jealous Mus- sulmen. We had a small bed-room each, and the dining- room in common. The latter was sufficiently com- 96 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. modioiis, and had a painted glass window which nearly occupied one side of the room. Friday, 12///. — After breakflist we accompanied onr host, Mahomed Ally Khan, to see some of the wonders of Shirauz. We first visited the Takht-a-Casjar, a house built by the reigning fami- ly, but having little to recommend it, except the fine view it commands of the city, and the garden in which it stands. Thence we went to see the tomb of the Persian poet Hafiz, which is a single block of Tabreez marble, having verses from the works of the poet, and a passage from the Koran upon it. The tomb is in a garden among several others. The same garden contains a pleasure house, and some beautiful cypress trees. This being the Sunday of the Mahomcdans, we met crowds of idle people at the tomb of the poet, and, as usual, they gathered round us in a mob. Tlic ladies wore veils of cotton cloth, having a very small bit of closely worked net-work in front of the iace ; but such was their curiosity to get a good look of us Faringccs (Europeans,) that, while we were looking at a portrait of the poet, in the plea- sure house, several of them threw aside their veils ami displayed very pretty faces. After this we went to the Mult Tun, or seven bodies, aiul the Cliuhcl Tun, or 40 bodies, both buildings erected by the \'izir Kerim Khan to the SHIRAUZ. 97 memory of pious and extraordinary men. Tun is literally body, but here means persons^ the name of each building apparently designating the number of persons whom it commemorates. The Huft Tun is a pleasure-house, in an enclo- sed garden, planted with rows of chinar and cy- press trees. In the principal room, which is open to the garden, and supported on two pillars in front, there are several poor paintings. That on the right is intended to represent Abraham's sacri- fice of Isaac ; on the left Moses keeping the flocks of Jethro ; and, in the centre, the Persian tale of Shaik Chenan. Proceeding home, we vi- sited another pleasure house, also the work of Kerim Khan, which was covered with a profusion of gilding, representing, in a wretched style, trees, flowers, birds, men and beasts. We then went to the tomb of the other great Persian poet Saadi, which was a poor miserable place, not worth going to see. On our way back to the city, we passed through a kind of public garden, containing a fine stream of water, with several falls and baths, in which many people were bathing. We returned to the city, and entered it at the opposite side to that by which we came out ; and, in our way to our quarters, passed through the Bazareh Vakeel, which is a handsome vaulted street about sixteen feet H 98 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. wide, with capital shops on both sides, holes in the centre of the arches for tlie emission of smoke, and windows in the sides for the admission of light. Such is its length, that, after we had rode alongst it a considerable distance, I looked in vain for the opposite end. In the centre there is a sort of rotundo, with bazars branching off to the right and left. All this splendid market-place, which is superior to any thing of the kind I have ever seen, was erected by the Vizir Kerim Khan, and Mirza Usuf, a former governor of Shirauz ; and the rents of the shops add considerably to the pub- lic revenue. Our friends having solicited an ai^di- ence for us, Saturday the 13th, at eleven o'clock, was the time appointed for our visting his Royal Highness Hussein Ally Mirza, Prince of Shirauz. Saturday, ISth. — Soon after ten o'clock this morning, one of the prince's household waited on us to conduct us to the presence of his master. At eleven o'clock we started on horseback, all in full dress, and accompanied by Dr. Foot and our host Mahomed Ally Khan, who wore a fine shawl cloak on the occasion. Having gone through se- veral streets, we passed the ditch and high walls of the palace on our right, and entered the outer court of it, where we dismounted ; here a crowd of people were assembled to gaze upon us ; and I observed a few pieces of ordnance tumbled toge- SHIRAUZ. 99 ther, and apparently much neglected. Wlien be- yond this square we came to the gate of another, where we were detained a few minutes. Here a tall stout man stood in armour. It was intimated to us that we might proceed ; when we entered a spacious court, and met a gentleman who acted as Ish agassi (master of ceremonies) on tlie occasion. He requested us to arrange ourselves according to our rank, a matter which was soon adjusted ; he then placed himself at the head of us, and thus we marched on and entered at an angle of three sides of a square of armed men, drawn up in front of the deman konehy (hall of audience,) in which the prince was seated. When we had passed along half the length of the line of men fronting him, the master of ceremonies stopt ; we turned round so as to face the prince, and made him an English bow, taking off our hats at the same time ; this we repeated three times in as many different places, the last when we were close to a canal of water immediately under the hall of audience with se- veral fountains playing, and turning little wheels, on which there were bells that made a jingling noise. After the last salutation, the Ish agassi announced to the prince, in a loud voice, who we were, and the purpose for which we had come, to which the prince replied " Khosh ameded," (you are welcome.) We then proceeded to the hall, h2 100 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. and passed into the presence of the prince, when we made another obeisance, and were most gra- ciously received, and requested to sit down, which we did, cross-legged on the carpet, according to the custom of the country. Prince Hussein Ally JMirza is a very handsome man, about thirty years of age, with most pleasing manners. He said he hoped we had been well treated in his country, and that if we had any re- quest to make, it should be immediately complied with, adding, that he would give orders lor our see- ing his palace and gardens. The prince's dress was plain white and gold muslin. One of his sons, who stood before him, on the same carpet with us, was magnificently dressed and covered with a profusion of jewels. The hall of audience is small, but very splendid, being en- tirely lined with mirrors even to the doors, which have silver Persian locks. After a good deal of conversation between the Prince and D]'. Lumsden, (the only one of our party who could speak Per- sian,) coffee was produced in small china cups, cased in silver, after which calyoons were brought. The servant kneeled as he presented the calyoon to the prince, and we retired, going through the same ceremonies as before. There was some- tiling very imposing in the scene. All the officers of the court were present. The garden had an SHIRAUZ. 101 avenue of lofty trees in the centre, at the sides of which were long canals ; and the soldiers were armed with swords, pistols, match-lock pieces, and a kind of hatchet. From the palace we went to visit the prime mi- nister of the prince, Mahomed Zekey Khan, at whose house we had a very nice entertainment. It consisted of rosewater and calyoons, then coffee, afterwards a course of pleasant sweetmeats, and iced sherbets, lemonade, &c. with calyoons again to finish. The latter were extremely handsome, the chillums (cups for the tobacco) being of ena- melled gold, with portraits of the fair Persian dames, &c. We then went to inspect the stud of the minister, comprehending a great many supe- rior horses of the Arabian and Persian breeds. We applied to the minister for a mehmaindar to ac- company us on our journey to Ispahan, and the request was immediately granted. The duty of the mehmaindar is to secure us quarters, provi- sions, and every assistance on our route ; and his presence, as he is a soldier in the immediate service of the prince, commands a degree of re- spect and attention which we might not other- wise have met with. Sunday^ 14th. — As the gates of the city of Shi- rauz are shut at night, travellers wishing to march early in the morning are obliged to sleep outside j h3 102 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. we made our arrangements accordingly, and our baggage proceeded to the Bag-i- Vakeel in the af- ternoon. One of the chief officers of the prince paid us a visit in the forenoon, in order to conduct us to see a beautiful garden, the Baga Furma Furmai, which has been recently made by the reigning (or rather governing) prince, Hussein Ally Mirza. About four o'clock in the afternoon we mounted, and, after visiting a venerable old man, who is highly respected in Shirauz for his piety, we proceeded on to the garden above mentioned, in which there are two beautiful pleasure-houses, one over the gateway or entrance, the other (as is the general plan of the whole of the country residences of Shi- rauz) at the opposite end of the garden, which was quite a paradise. From a long basin of clear wa- ter immediately in fiont of the upper house, issues a fine canal lined with stone, in which at intervals there are water-falls. The garden is amply stocked with every variety of trees and shrubs. This being the season when the roses are in full bloom, and the black birds in high song, we enjoyed this fairy scene in perfection. Mahomed Zekey Khan, the minister, and many other chiefs, met us in tiiis garden. The upper house was inhabited by part of the prince's family ; and, when wc had walked up a part of the garden, SIIIUAUZ. 103 the young prince, wlio stood before the prince yes- terday, joined us. He is a handsome boy, with a complexion as fair as that of any European. On our arrival at the upper house, we received a most gracious message from the prince, who was in an adjacent garden, requesting we would par- take of some refreshments which he had sent us. On a massy silver tray were two plates, one con- taining sweetmeats, the other a luxurious dish of cherries, mixed with large pieces of clear ice, on a bed of beautiful roses, interspersed with green leaves of ditierent plants. We seated ourselves on the carpet of a spacious saloon, open towards the garden, and partook of the fruit, &c. while we examined the numerous paintings of the present king of Persia, Futteh Ali Shah, hunting, riding, sitting in state, and mounted in battle. With respect to the merits of the paintings in both the houses in the garden, they are like all the rest in Shirauz, such as would disgrace an English sign painter. The national vanity of the Persians is quite ri- diculous. In the Prince's garden yesterday, a Per- sian chief, who had been in India, and with whom I had some conversation regarding that most beau- tiful of all buildings, the Tauje Mahal at Agra, called out to me before the Prince, Minister and the other Chiefs, " Have you ever seen such a fine place as this ? Is the Tauje to be compared lOi JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. to it ?" I could not feel in my heart to agree with him, but, at the same time, wishing to play the courtier a little, 1 replied they were different kinds of buildings, both very beautiful in their way. Monday^ '[5th — Marched to Zergoon, distance 14* miles, having started at four, and dismounted at a private house at nine, A. M. Tuesday, l6lh. — Marched at four, A. M. Pas- sed a caravan of some hundred camels on their way to Tabreez, with sugar, &c. &c. Crossed the Bend-emir over a bridge of five arches of different sizes, and entered the Plain of Merdusht. This march was more gay and lively than usual, many small caravans of travellers having passed. Parties of the wandering lllyauts were changing ground ; large flocks of sheep were grazing near tiie road, and several villages, with a fine sheet of cultivation around each, were scattered over this vast plain. At the distance of several miles I saw the pil- lars of the ancient Palace of Persepolis, the ruins of which rather disappoint the traveller at first sight, more particularly after his expectations have been raised to a high pitch by the descriptions of his predecessors. In 51 east longitude, and about 30 north latitude, stand the Ruins of Persepolis, at the base of a hill, the height of which takes ofll'much from the ma- jestic i»j)pearance they would otherwise have ; and it is not until you arc within a few hundred yards TERSEPOLIS. J 05 that you become fully sensible of the immensity and beauty of these splendid remains of antiquity. The front or western face of the palace runs near- ly due north and south, at a distance of about two miles N. E. of the modern village of Kanara. The extreme length of this face, as nearly as I could measure by pacing it, is 1650 feet. The basement on this side, upon which the whole fa- bric was constructed, is raised 34 feet from the ground, and built of immense blocks of a coarse black marble, or stone of that appearance, without cement, but extremely well cut, and fitted to each other. The entrance to the palace towards the north end of the front or western face, is by two flights of steps, facing each other, and springing from the plain to the north and south, at the distance of forty six feet from each other. Each flight is again divided into two. The first terminated by a spa- cious landing place, contains, I think, fifty-eight steps ; the second to the platform, on the summit of the whole, contains forty-nine steps ; breadth of the stairs 26i feet, and height of the steps 3i inches. Thus the ascent is so gradual, that I rode up on horseback. On gaining the summit, nothing can ap- pear more grand than the field of venerable ruins presented to the eye. The magnificent portals are the nearest objects. Sixteen immense and finely 106 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. proportioned marble columns, with many pedestals half buried, fluted shafts of pillars, stair-cases the sides of which are covered with a profusion of or- naments, all come in the fore-ground ; while, in looking towards the south, the eye is lost among porticos, door-frames, on which there are sculptured iiffures and fragments of the wails of suites of the most extensive and splendid apartments. We re- mained admiring these ruins for a considerable time, and went to live in a garden-house, little more than a mile distant from Persepolis ; we returned in the afternoon, and on the following day. Wednesday, 17 th. — Having spent many hours of this day among the ruins of Persepolis, I will en- deavour to carry my reader forward from the posi- tion in which I left him yesterday, and to convey to his mind my ideas of what the original splendid structure was, the remains of which continue to be so much admired by all travellers ; ideas which I formed after a very minute examination of the magnificent portion of the palace, which I doubt not was appropriated to public assemblies, and which, in modern Persia, wouhl be called tiie Dexcaji /ro?/(7/, or hall of audience. The first por- tals measure seventy feet from the landing place, to the summit of tlie grand stair-case, and are com- posed of innncnsc blocks of marble. They are rEiiSEPOLis. 107 faced by mutilated figures of animals resembling sphynxes, sculptured in the interior of the por- tals, and looking outwards east and west. After passing these, the next objects are two columns, but it is quite evident that there were originally two more. The second portals are of the same dimensions as the first, but differ in their decorations. The animals look to the east, (f. e. towards the moun- tain,) and have beautifully sculptured wings. After passing the first pillars, and facing to the south, you are immediately in front of the highly ornamented double stair cases leading to the hall of audience, and distant about 135 feet from the portals, which, together with the four columns, must once have supported a roof. On a near approach the alto-reliefs of this stair case have a fine effect, in the centre of the whole ; and at the extremities, figures of a lion seizing a bull are finely sculptur- ed. The sides of the double stair-cases are decorat- ed with three compartments of figures, represent- ing on the right, chiefly men carrying offerings, led horses, and bullocks, the real camel with two humps, asses, rams in pairs, and a car, the figure of which is much the same as that of the Roman car, drawn by horses. On the left, or eastern stairs, the 108 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. processions consist chiefly of spearmen, with qui- vers of arrows and bows on their shoulders, some with high caps, others with low round ones, all wearing long flowing robes, with the hair of their heads and beards in curls. The borders which di- vide the compartments of alto-reliefs are very rich. Proceeding from the top of these stair-cases to- wards the south, you enter the remains of a portico of twelve columns, from which you are led into the centre of the hall of audience through two portals. The hall of audience covered a space of about 150 feet square, the roof of which was sup- ported upon 36 beautiful fluted pillars, and there were porticos of l!2 pillars each, of larger dimensions than those of the hall, to the east and west. Be- yond the hall of audience, towards the south, on an eminence, are some stupendous fragments of doors and windows, formed of blocks of marble. They arc ranged in a square, and mark the re- mains of most magnificent apartments. On some of the door-frames the black marble still retains a beautiful polish, and the whole have figures sculp- tured on them. The most common figures are groups, consisting of a king in various attitudes, with two men standing behind, the one bear- ing an umbrella (or chatta,) the other a fly- flap, (or chouric.) Many of the figures are mur tilatcd, ami evidently cut with hammers or other PERSEPOLIS. 109 tools, but the zeal of the destroyers has not been such as to extend to the entire effacing of the groups, several of which are untouched. Towards the plain are the smaller rooms, built of the same durable materials ; and in that to the south, are several long inscriptions in the unknown arrow headed characters *. Besides the chambers and parts of the ruins above noticed, the foundations of various other parts of columns, and of passages, may be traced ; and, as the basement of the whole, on the moun- tain side, is now on a level with the surface of the earth, (probably from the particles washed down in the lapse of ages,) it is not improbable that much may be buried, of which there is not a trace vi- sible. On the face of the rocks which appear in the mountain, in the rear of the ruins of Persepolis, there are sculptures of fire altars and worshippers. Many of the figures, with their costumes, and the * With respect to these ancient characters, I may mention that, when at Bushire, we were furnished with some written instructions for decyphering them, according to the theory of a German professor, who conceived that he had discovered their real meaning. His theory, and the reasoning on which it was buih, seemed plausible. Accord- ingly, for a time, even the celebrated Oriental professor at Paris, M. Baron de Sacy, was inclined to subscribe to this theory. He had, how- ever, altered his opinion by the time we arrived in Paris, as Dr. Lums- den found in the course of a conversation he had with him on the subject. 110 JOURNTEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN, style of sculpture, exactly correspond with those in the palace, and are probably as ancient. It would be foreign to the object of this brief narrative to attempt any historical inquiry touch- ing the antiquity of Persepolis. The fire altars are of themselves sufficient to prove that its date must hav'e been anterior to the Hegira, or introduction of the Mahometan religion into Persia, which took place in the year 622 of the Christian era. From this time the Persians ceased to worship fire. But we are carried back by the ancient historians to a far more remote period. For Quintus Curtius * in- forms us, that this royal city was consumed by fire, after it had been taken possession of by Alex- ander the Great ; and that its destruction, which even the conquering army of the Macedonians had not been allowed to commence, was only thought of when Alexander and his mistress Thais were flushed with wine, on which occasion the Grecian dame proposed that the Persian palace (Kegia Per- sarum) should be destroyed, to avenge tlie wrongs whicli that nation had inflicted on her country. Her desire was immediately granted, Alexander himself having set the example by applying the first torch. And thus one of the most magnificent * Lib. V. c. «^. rERSEPOLTS. Ill and wonderful structures of* antiquity fell a sacri- fice to the whim of a drunken courtesan. We know that Alexander died in the year 324> before Christ. But the date of the erection of this pa- lace is not, and probably never can be ascertain- ed, until a key shall have been discovered which may enable the curious to decipher the arrow- headed character, of which numerous and very long inscriptions are here composed, and still quite visible. This morning we examined the sculptures at Naksha Rustum, and some others lying between Jumsheds Harim, and Persepolis. All these are, in my opinion, faithfully represented in M. Mo- rier's drawings, although some of his sketches must have been hastily taken, and finished from memory. Such was my impression on compar- ing the drawings with the originals. I went this day to the ruins of Persepolis at half-past one o'clock, and remained among them until the close of the day, during which time I was dis- turbed by numerous Persian visitors, whose con- stant gazing becomes annoying to a European. The Persians believe that these ruins contain bu- ried treasures, and they often suspect that the European visitors, whom they see, are in search of them. 112 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Thursday, I8th. — We made a short march of about six miles to Cultabad, where we lodged in a poor hovel. Friday i VJih. — We marched at two, A. M. and found a beautiful road almost the whole way to Mayen, where we arrived about seven ; distance sixteen miles. Mayen is the prettiest village we had yet seen in Persia ; but the caravansera was in bad repair, and we bivouaked under some fine walnut trees. This village contains several fine gar- dens, and many trees, with an ample supply of water for irrigation. Saturday, 20/A. — Marched at two, A. M. The road pretty good, until we passed the village of Emaum Zadda Ismael, when we had a difficult pass to get over, the descent from which into the plain of Oojam was as abrupt as any we had yet seen : we arrived at the ruined caravansera and village of Cogan, which has been entirely desert- ed, at eight, distance about sixteen miles. Du- ring our progress this day the summits of all the mountains we passed had patches of snow still ly- ing on them. A man brought us a supply of snow to cool oiu- wine for dinner. A few horsemen ar- rived at tlie caravansera in which we were quarter- ed this alternoon, and brought intelligence of the murder of Meershumes ud Deen, the chief with whom we spent a day, and whose hospitality I KOOSHKEHZERD. 1 1 3 had occasion to describe in a preceding part of my narrative. It is reported, that while this chief was riding out with Moolah Shah Ma- homed, this man first shot him through the back, and then finished by cutting the ill-fated chief with his sword. The cause of the destruction of Meershumes ud Deen, is said to have been an improper or unnatural intimacy between him and a member of the murderer's family. He was not, perhaps, much to be regretted, having usurp- ed the estate of an elder brother, and recently put several men to death. The prince of Shirauz had, however, ordered the murderer to be appre- hended. Sunday, 21. — We started at 12''- 40™- and reach- ed another ruined caravansera at Kooshkehzerd at gh. 20"i. A. M. distance about thirty miles. On our march to-day, we came up with an immense ca- ravan, and I was not a little astonished to ob- serve several of the last mules laden with coffins. I happened unfortunately to get to leeward of them, when my nostrils were assailed by the vilest stench of putrid bodies that can be imagined. On inquiry as to the organization of this disgusting dead troop which was acting as a rear guard, I learnt the following particulars. The caravan we had overtaken was one of pil- I 114 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. grims, formed at stated times at Shirauz, for the purpose of proceeding to Curbulla, Mecca, and Medina. On the death of a Mussulman, whose re- lations are determined to give him the fairest chance of a seat in heaven, the body is interred at Imaum Zadah Ismael, or some other Imaum Zadah, (or holy place,) until the usual time for the departure of the caravan of pilgrims, when it is removed from the grave, and transported for final interment to Curbulla, a place held to be consecrated bycontain- inir the remains of Imaum Hussein. This caravan consists of an immense number of horses, mules, and asses laden with men, women, and children, proceeding on the pilgrimage. The ladies in their veils ride in a kind of chairs, slung one on each side of a mule ; otliers have something resembling a palanquin, with curtains and double poles, slung on a pair of mules, called a Tukht i Roxvan. The line of March ol'tlii^s band extends for some miles, and tiiere cannot be less than ^000 souls attached to it. The number of bodies I had no means of ascertaining. Monday, Q^2d. — Started at two, and arrived at the dirty caravansera of Dehgurdoo, distant twen- ty.two miles, at nine, A. M. Wc passed the camp of the })ilgrims in the dark of the morning. KOMESHA. 11-5 Tuesday, Q3d. — Marched at two, and, after an uninteresting march of twenty-five miles, reached a handsome new caravansera at Yesdehkhaust, at nine, A. M. By sending on a part of our mules with the cook over night, we were generally enabled to breakfast soon after we reached our ground ; after which, and smoking for an hour, we commonly went to bed for two or three hours. We dined between four and live, and went to bed before eight o'clock. As to dress, we wore the sheep-skin cap of Persia, and mustachoes ; in other respects we adhered to our own costume. From Shirauz we had been accompanied by a young Persian gentleman, Mirza Ally Acbar, to whom we were introduced by Captain Bruce ; he was proceeding to Tehraun, to settle some busi- ness at court. Wednesday, 24/A.— Started at 3^. <3,0^. A. M. and arrived at Mugadabad, or Muxudbeggy, distant about twenty miles at 8^- 55™- The road good, and country generally barren, with several desert- ed villages, of which we had already seen many in Persia. The caravansera was of mud, and very dirty. Chopped straw and barley were now the principal food of our horses and mules. Thursday, ^>5th. — Marched at 4^- 40°^- Road good ; arrived at Komesha at 8^- 35"^- A. M. dis- i2 116 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. tance about IS miles. Caravansera indifferent. Town pretty large, chiefly built of mud, and half in ruins. Friday, Q6th. — Reached JNlayar, distant fifteen miles, in 4^^- 45"- When within seven miles of this place my horse became lame, and I walked that part of the journey. Road and caravansera very good to day. Saturday, Q7 th.— Moved off at 1^^- 40'"- A. M. and, after passing through a barren tract of black hills over a very good road, we came in sight of the city of Ispahan about eight o'clock. The first view was very striking. The whole valley in which it lies appeared covered with mosques, houses, manors, and beautiful gardens. We were met by a vast concourse of respectable-looking well-dress- ed people, who came out to conduct us to quarters in the palace which had been prepared for our re- ception. Nothing could have been more flatter- ing, as little more attention could have been shown to ambassadors. We this day met Professor Rush, of the university of Copenhagen, on his way to In- dia, tlie languages of which, especially the San- scrit, he is desirous of acquiring. We ])assed through some fine gardens and bazars, and found the quar- ters about nine o'clock every thing we could wish. After breakfast we received a present of fruits and sweetmeats from the governor of Ispahan. ISPAHAN. 1 17 Sunday^ Q8th. — In the evening we visited part of the palace which was adjacent to our quarters. In one square, a splendid hall of audience above 75 feet in length, by 45 in breadth, with a propor- tional heighth, and lined with mirrors and gilding, was well deserving of notice. One side was open to the square or garden, and supported upon four pillars, cased in small mirrors. Immediately in its front was a long basin of water, and the remains of a canal with fountains down the centre, extended to the opposite end of the garden. In the centre of the hall are the remains of a marble fountain, and behind it is a handsome arch- ed room, which is raised above the hall, and must have been the place of the throne in former days. The painted glass in a large window in the back of the recess has a fine effect. The hall is lined with Tabreez marble to a height of four feet all round ; and flowers and birds are represented in fine colours, but miserable workmanship. There are some wretched attempts at landscapes on the walls also, which are any thing but ornamental. Several beams cross this building some feet under the roof, and, though covered with mirrors, disfi- gure it exceedingly ; nor are they of the slightest use, as they support nothing. All the Persian rooms I had yet seen have one very glaring and striking defect, which is a total neglect of the pro- I 3 118 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. portions of their doors, many of which look like holes left by chance, and spoil the appearance of their best apartments. In another square of the palace we were introduced into a suite of princely chambers, the doors of which, and the paintings of fruits and flowers, were really extremely rich and beautiful. We this day intimated our intention of paying a visit to-morrow to the Begler Beggy, (lord of lords,) the title of the governor of Ispahan. Monday, Q,9th. — After breakfast, we went in full dress to visit the governor, who received us very politely. Calyoons, coffee, fruit, and sweetmeats, were presented with the usual forms. The gover- nor was plainly dressed, with a scarlet cloak thrown over his shoulders. The room in which he receiv- ed us was a poor place, half finished. Fountains were playing in front, but every thing like splen- dour was studiously avoided. We sat so long in the cross-legged position of the country, that when we rose to go away, my legs were cramped ; I could hardly stand, and with difficulty walked out of the room. From the governor's residence we rode tlirough many bazars, which arc occu- j)ied according to the different trades. The brasiers, the smiths, tiie carpenters, the ma- kers of horse-furniture, are all to be seen in their distinct and separate bazars. By this arrange- ment a man may, without trouble, choose an arti- ISrAHAN. 119 cle for himself, from all of its kind that the craft can produce. We this day visited the Chehel Se- toon, a splendid palace built by Shah Abbas the Great. The first view you have of the palace is, as usual, from the extremity of the garden in which it stands. The exterior of the Persian palaces never corresponds with their interior magnificence ; and I never thought one of them splendid until either very near or actually within the building. The Chehel Setoon has a long canal in front, with fine broad walks on both sides. In looking; at the palace from the most distant point, the ap- pearance of twenty handsome pillars cased in mir- rors, supporting a roof lined, as well as the walls, with the same materials, is very beautiful no doubt ; but you must not carry your eye above the cor- nice of the building, because the roof is, (I may say always,) shabby, and ought to be screened or covered with a pediment. If you grasp the build- ing at a glance, it must, as a rvhole, suffer much in the estimation of a man of any taste. Neverthe- less the Chehel Setoon is a splendid palace. The glass covers so much more space than the carved wood work in the interior, that it appears at a lit- tle distance as if the whole was formed of mirrors only. At the four corners of the fountain in the centre of the first saloon, the four pillars aie sup- ported on marble balls, carved into the figures of 120 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. four lions, the shaft of the pillar resting on their united shoulders, and appearing by its weight to force their mouths open. They have a good ef- fect ; and when the fountains play, the mouths of the four lions that look towards the square basin, discharge spouts of water into it. This saloon is open on three sides, having canals down the gar- den opposite to each. The ceiling is painted in gold flowers, which are still fresh and brilliant ; and the blending of mirrors and gilding over the whole, makes it glitter with magnificent splendour. From the centre of this saloon an arched recess, a little raised, of the same workmanship, and em- bellished with portraits of favourites, leads to a hall that would not disgrace the, most admired pa- lace in Europe. The length of this hall is seventy- five feet by forty-five, having a lofty roof formed of domes and figures beautifully gilded and painted. The hall ie decorated with three large paintings on eacli of its long sides, and immense painted glass windows at the ends. The paintings pour- tray battles of Shah Ishmael with the Turks and Usbeck Tartars, and Nadir Shah with Sultaun Ma- homed of India. The other one banqueting scenes, where the Great Shah Abbas is introduced, sur- rounded by beautiful noutch girls, (dancing girls,) musicians, and khans, entertaining another king, ISPAHAN. 121 and in the act of offering him wine. Though the painters knew nothing of the rules of perspective, still the pieces are done with so much spirit and life, and with such admirable colours, that they are extremely interesting, and are admirable records of the costumes, furniture, fashions, and style of past and remote ages. Shah Abbas is drawn with- out a beard. The present king of Persia prides himself on the length of his, which, while he sits, is said to touch the ground. From the Chehel Setoon we visited the Ama- rut Noo, (or new palace,) erected by his present majesty, Futteh Ali Shah. It does credit to the workmen of the present day ; and without being on so grand a scale, it resembles, in most points, the ancient palaces. I remarked a great deal of sameness in the style of laying out all the royal gardens and grounds in Ispahan ; straight walks, canals, lines of the chi- nar trees, and high walls met the eye at every turn. Tuesday, 30th. — This morning Dr. Lumsden and I went to get a view of the city from the Ali Capi Gate, from the top of which we had a very fine one. It is about one hundred feet high, and in a central situation. But Ispahan is seen to most advantage, on the first view you have of it from 122 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. the hills on the Shirauz road. From the top of the gateway to which I have now alluded, the mud roofs or roofing of bricks of the same colour, which are general over the whole city, have a dead, ugly appearance, which is only relieved by the chinar trees, and occasionally a manor or dome faced with blue tiles. A great part of the city is in ruins. A letter from Captain Willock, British Charge d' Affaires at the court of Tehraun, to Dr. Lums- den, announced to us this morning the death of our late revered sovereign King George III. and that of his son the Duke of Kent. Captain Willock forwarded a letter from the first minister of Persia to his brother, the governor of this city, requesting that we might meet with every attention ; in con- sequence of which we were honoured with a visit from his excellency the governor of Ispalian in the evening, at whose request we determined on vi- siting seveial gardens, &c. instead of marching early to-morrow as we had intended. IVedncsdaij, 3lst. — Accompanied by one of the governor's men, we visited the Armenian church at Joolfa, a quarter of the city in which all the Christians live. In consequence of an order from the govenior that we might be treated witii all due respect, llic ciiicr piicsl, at the iicad of a close ISPAHAN. 1-23 column of inferiors, came out to meet us in front of the church. He was extremely polite in point- ing out the beauties of it ; and we were rather sur- prised to find it, though small, yet a handsome edifice, adorned with many tolerable paintings of Scriptural subjects. We were conducted to the house of the priest adjoining, where fruits and cof- fee were presented to us. I understand that this Armenian colony has been settled at Ispahan for several centuries, and now consists of about 500 families. But it is said that in the time of Shah Abbas, 200 years ago, there were l!^,000 houses of Armenians, and twenty-four of their churches in Joolfa. This diminution of the Ar- menian inhabitants, who were entirely engaged in trade, is said to have been the main cause of the decline in the wealth and population of Ispa- han. On returning from Joolfa, we passed along the banks of the river Zaiande-Roode, from which Is- pahan is supplied with all the water requisite both for use and ornament. It is a clear limpid stream, and has several pretty bridges thrown over it. The bridges have two tiers of arches, and look ex- tremely picturesque. The lower tier consists of larger arches for the passage of the water, and the upper supports a sort of covered way on both sides of the road along the bridge. The population of Is- 124? JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. pahan has been said to extend to 400,000 souls, but from the very ruinous state of the city, I ques- tion if it contains half that number. It was from this city Nadir Shah marched when he invaded India in 17^39, and returned with a booty of up- wards of thirty millions of money. Having sent off our baggage and servants, we mounted at two o'clock, P. M. and after riding along covered bazars, for upwards of half an hour, we turned our backs on Ispahan. We passed over some salt marshes, and at a quarter past five, P. M. reached a handsome caravansera at Guez, distant fifteen miles from Ispahan. June \st, Thursdajj,— 'Started at 2''- 40"^- A. M. a fine moonlight morning, and passing over a bar- ren tract, on one point of which Nadir Shah gained a decisive victory over Ashriff, the Afghan chief. We arrived at Mourchekourd at eight o'clock. Ca- ravansera new and commodious. Distance twenty- live miles. Fridai/y ^2d. — At 2^'- ^5"^- marched along a fine road, but over a vile sterile country, until we enter- ed the fertile valley of Sow, at the caravansera of which we made our appearance at 9''- 10'"- A. M. where we had good clean quarters. Distance marched ^5^ miles. Saturday, 3d. — Started at 4''- 10"^- and travelling through a country affording beautiful views of KOHROOD. 125 mountain scenery, arrived at Kohrood, one of the most fertile and highly cultivated spots we had met within Persia, at 9^- 40ni- Distance lifteen miles. On the march we met Captain Gordon on his way from Ockotsk via Siberia, through which, and other parts of the Russian Empire, he had been travelling since the month of October last ; he had tome about eleven thousand miles, some- times at the rapid rate of two thousand five hun- dred miles in fourteen days, over the snow, and dragged by post-horses in sledges. Captain Gor- don went from Calcutta to Ochotsk on a trading speculation, which had entirely failed ; and, as his ship had returned to India, and he had no pros- pect of a passage back by sea, he formed the bold resolution of returning as I have stated. He had been repeatedly detained, and carried far out of his way to the different Russian authorities, be- fore he was permitted to proceed. Sunday, 4//^.— Started at 2^- 15"- A. M. and ar- rived at Kaushoon, at nine o'clock. Distance twenty-six miles ; road bad and little interesting. Fine airy quarters in the king's garden. Kau- shoon appears to be a large populous town. Monday, dtL — Marched at 3^- lO'"- A. M. and arrived at a very superior caravansera, at Seinsin, at 9^- 20"- On the march we saw that ocular de- ception, called by the Persians, Suraub. At some 126 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. distance oft] it appeared as if we were approaching 11 large sheet of water surrounded by trees ; as we advanced, the appearance of the water vanish- ed, and the trees only remained. Distance twenty miles one furlong. Tvesday^ 6th. — Left the Seinsin caravansera at gh. 15m. and arrived at Passaungoon caravansera at 8'^- 40''ii- Distance 21 miles. Near the former was a ruined village of considerable extent ; here we had a distinct view of another, in a similar condition. In fact, we frequently wandered from one staoe to another without seeino: a human being, or even a human abode. Here it may be truly said, " The plain forsaken lies, " A dreary waste, expanding to the skies.'* June 7 thy Wednesday. — Marched at 4^- lO"^- A.M. and arrived soon after eight o'clock at the town of Koom, which is half in ruins. Here many storks have built their nests on the tops of spires, m the midst of the town, and it is curious to observe them feeding tlicir young. The distance is sixteen miles ; road bad ; caravansera in the middle of tlie town indifferent. The people appeared inqusitive enough, and collected in the place to annoy us a little during the day. The mountain of Dirmaurund, half way between Teh- KOOM. 127 raiin and the Caspian Sea, had been in sight for tlie last three days. Thursday, S^/i.—We left Koom at Ih. 25"^- A. M. and when about twelve miles from it, we passed a celebrated enchanted hill, called Gedden Gilmare^ " who goes never returns." In passing it, Mirza Ally Acbar, the Persian gentleman who accom- panied us, said that the people believed that he who was bold enough to gain its summit had no chance of ever returning. It is a hill of salt, so much of this substance being mixed with the earth that it had the appearance of a fall of snow partially melted ; and incrustations of large size, and several inches thick, were formed of pure white salt on small streams that run down from the mountain. Within the last few days we had seen many earless marmots. These are small animals, of a light colour, with reddish hairs on the neck, no tails, and leap like rabbits. Arrived at Trasnai, distance about 32 miles, at 9^- 40™- Friday, 9th. — Made a short march of four miles to Baug-e-Shaik, where our quarters were in an old tower, in which we were extremely uncomfort- able. Thermometer at three o'clock P. M. 96". This day we met another body in a coffin on the back of a horse, on its route to join the caravan proceeding to Curbulla. I'^S JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Saturday, 10///.— Marched at 2^^- 55°^- A. M. over a pretty good road, and reached a caravansera at Daung, distant about twenty-four miles at S^'- 45'°- Sunday, llth. — Started at 3^- 10>"- and arrived at the end of our intended march, Ajeeb, distant twenty-one miles, at S'" 20"- ; but here we found our advanced party of servants had gone on, from a want of suppHes of every kind at this place ; and ^ve had nothing left for it but to follow them. At iialf past eleven o'clock we arrived at Arrah Sung, distant about thirty-two miles from Daung. Our quarters were indifferent, being in a private house. This, indeed, was almost invariably the case when we had not a caravansera to resort to. I cannot help again remarking what admirable accommo- dations those establishments generally afford to travellers. We had frequently a pretty good din- ing-room for the party, and one bed-room each, besides plenty of stabling for horses and mules, and good lodging for our servants. If a stream of water does not pass the caravansera, it is almost invariably supplied with that indispensable element from ambarahs, or large covered reservoirs, in which a suflicient quantity of rain water is collect- ed lor the whole year. Each caravansera has ge- nerally a man and his family in charge of it, who sup})ly, or procure for travellers, eggs, bread and butter, fowls, &c. SUCSABAD PARSIN. 129 From seeing such splendid public houses, many of which have been built in this king's reign, one would be apt to suppose the empire in a flourish- ing state ; but the reverse was to be inferred from the fact, that we had as yet rarely seen a trace of cultivation between one resting-place and ano- ther. The Turkish language only is now understood by the common people. During the latter part of this day's march, we had a very extraordinary looking hill on our right, near the road. Its appearance was that of one having fire in its bowels, which was ready to burst into a flame. In the rear of this hill, but many miles distant, immense mountains covered with snow closed our view. Monday, VZth, — Set off at 3^- 40ni- and arrived at Sugsabad a few minutes after six, A. M. We got into very good quarters, (through the influence of our muleteer,) in a private house. Distance march- ed this day about nine miles. Tuesday, 13th. — Started at one o'clock, A. JM. ; a good road ; country more populous, and better cultivated than any we had yet seen in Persia. We reached Parsin, distant about 3d miles, at nine, and quartered in an indifferent private house. That portion of our baggage and servants which was left behind, did not join us until !''• ^0^- P. M. The K ISO JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. time autually occupied on the march from our mounting at one place to our dismounting at the next, is what I have inserted. We used to keep our horses at their quickest rate of walking, so that they occasionally broke into a jog trot. Wednesday y \4>th. — We marched over an excel- lent road, through a country well cultivated com- pared to what we had met with, and arrived at Khoremdera at eight, having left Parsin at three, distance about 20 miles ; quarters good. The si- tuation, gardens, streams, &:c. rendered this as pret- ty a village as any we had seen in Persia. Thursday/, 15th. — Marched after day -break to Saingaula ; distance about eight miles. On the way we killed a hare and a brace of wild fowl. Friday t l6th. — We reached Sooltauneea, distant eighteen miles, by breakfast time, and occupied an indifferent house close to the king's summer resi- dence at this place. A Persian chief, whose name was Mahomed Usoof, with 1500 cavalry, encamp- ed near us, waiting the arrival of the king, who was expected here in a few days, to spend the hot sea- son. Saturday y IJth. — We went to take a peep at the Persian camp from a distance, this morning. It was increasing every liour, by tlic arrival of small parties of horse irom all quarters. Tliere were several large (lonl)le-i)oled tents in tlic cam]) ; all ZUNJAUN. 131 the others were small white ones, pitched in lines. We saw parties of the soldiers taking their horses out to graze, every man riding and leading ano- ther horse. The animals on which they were mounted appeared indeed finer tempered than the horses of the Bengal native cavalry, but not supe- rior in size or shape. Abdullah Mirza, one of the princes of the blood, who had just arrived from Zunjaun, passed us. Sunday y 18 th. — On this day's march we passed the encampment of Mahomed Ally Mirza, prince of Zunjaun. There was nothing superb in the ap- pearance of his tents. Oiu' route led us parallel to the valley of Zunjaun, which is well wooded, cul- tivated, and watered. Zunjaun is a pretty large town, with a good bazar, and two caravanseras. Monday, I9th. — We had a bad road, covered with stones the greater part of the march to Ar- maghana, which is a small village. We found good quarters in a private house, through the aid of a Persian gentleman who had been sent here by the king on some duty. Tuesday, 20th. — The road still worse than yes- terday. We procured quarters in a private house at Aukhund, a small place on the summit of a hill. Wednesday, 21sf. — We procured a guide to shew us the way, which proved very intricate, and the K 2 132 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. fellow carried us a considerable distance off the road, before we discovered the mistake. This was one of" the most interesting marches we have had for a long time past. By the route we took, though not the most direct, the ascent of the mountain Kauflan Ko was very gradual, and we moved along its ridge for several miles. The sides of the road presented innumerable wild flowers ; the hills were covered with verdure, on which herds of cattle and sheep were grazing ; many parts were cultivated without irrigation, whicli was quite novel to us, that laborious operation being indispensable in the south of Persia. The view on either side of the ridge or chain of hills on which we were moving was very singular. It was quite a bird's eye view of hills and dales to a great extent, until terminated on both sides by snowy mountains. The descent from the moun- tain was by a deep glen, in which I observed vines growing wild and luxuriant on tlie banks of a moun- tain stream, so small that it was frequently lost in the sand, and again bubbled forth some yards lower down. After gaining the plain, a small mule on which I rode, in attemping to pass a ditch, stuck up to its belly in mud, and obh'ged me to dismount and scramble out the best way I could, and drag the poor beast after mc. When in sight of Meana, we crossed the river Rood Kouch Meana, over a Ijridgeof 13 arches, and arrived at the village at ME AN A. 133 eleven o'clock, where many attempts to procure quarters proved vain ; but at last we succeeded. While looking out for a place, we went to the house of the governor, or head man of the village, who was absent ; after waiting there a few minutes, we were asked to walk in, and were politely receiv- ed by two sons of the khan. " Kosh Amedhed," said the younger, (a boy of twelve years old,) with all the gravity of a sage j and he continu- ed to conduct himself^ observing the usual ceremo- nies at visits during our stay. It is really quite amusing to see children, who in our country would hardly be out of the nursery, so observing and at- tentive to forms, as to officiate as host in the ab- sence of their father, with all the ease and grace which we only look for in mature years. Before leaving this place, we sent for specimens of the much dreaded bug (^Mulla) or hum-bug of Meana, the bite of which is said to produce ill health and death at the expiration of a few weeks or months. The only cure is to wrap one's self up in the warm hide of a newly killed bullock ; but the insect seldom bites natives, though fatal to strangers. It inha- bits the mud walls of old houses, and, according to the specimens we saw, is a little blackish round insect, with a paper-looking rim surrounding the body. k3 ISi JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Thursday^ 22c/. — The commencement of this clay's march was very picturesque. The road wound round many pretty hills and rocks, and up the side of a valley, in which there was a fine stream of wa- ter. Every quarter of a mile presented a new and pleasing prospect. We had come but a short distance from Meana when we met some of the soldiers of the'prince of Tabreez, Abbas Mirza, from whom we learnt that his Royal Highness was in the rear. For miles, baggage on mules and camels, and par- ties of two or three horsemen, came straggling along the road without order or arrangement. At a turn of the road we came in siglit of a gay look- ing troop, in scarlet cloaks, riding along in a close column. Tiiey proved to be no less characters than the prince's ladies, and might have been fif- teen in number. On seeing us they went a short distance off the highway, to allow us to pass. All the ladies in this country are in the habit of accompany- ing their lords on horseback, and making very long marches of twenty or thirty miles. In the prince's establishment I only observed one tukhb-lroxcany whicii was handsome, being covered with scarlet cloth, carried by two mules, and accompanied by a couple of soldiers. After riding some miles far- tiur on, we came in sight of the prince, accompa- nied by an escort of about 100 men, well mount- ed, two or three in advance to clear the way, and MEANA. 135 the rest in close order immediately in his rear. We drew up our horses parallel to the road, and saluted him as he passed. Some of the people call- ed out to us to dismount ; but we had not time to do so when the prince turned round and beckoned to us to come to him ; upon which we immediate- ly rode up along side of him. He then asked what countrymen we were ; and finding we were Eng- lishmen, he was extremely polite, and paid us more flattering compliments than I can well recollect. But, among many, he said that the English were the only Europeans he admired ; that he had se- veral in his service, and they had served him with their talents and their blood. In the latter remark he probably alluded to Captain Christie, who was killed when in the Persian service, during their war with the Russians. Prince Abbas Mirza is a handsome, soldier- looking man, of a darker complexion than the Prince of Shirauz, but with more animation in his countenance, and possessed of much more intelli- gence. He was plainly dressed, but well mounted. He asked Dr. Lumsden from what part of Britain we came, whether from England or Scotland. He then asked to what service I belonged ; and, on being told the artillery, he immediately inquired whether the horse or foot. He also inquired to what branch Mr. Law belonged, and seemed per- 130 JOURNEY FI10:M INDIA TO BRITAIN. fectly aware of the different descriptions of force composing the British army. We retraced our steps with the prince for about a quarter of an liour, during which he kept up a spirited conver- sation with Dr. Lumsden. He said that he ad- mired the English above all for their undeviating veracity, as they never s'werved Jrom the truth. He made kind inquiries as to how we had been treated in Persia, and how we meant to prosecute our journey from Tabreez ; to the latter question Dr. Lumsden said we meant to go via Teflis, Russia, &c., and that he believed the route of Constan- tinople was not open ; to which the prince replied that there had been a report that a misunderstand- ing existed between him and the Turkish govern- ment, but that it was entirely without foundation, and we might find the road perfectly safe. When the prince gave us permission we saluted him, and went on our course again. Prince Abbas Mirza was on his way to pay his respects to his father at Sooltaunea. We were told at Tabreez that this prince is given to avarice, which is cer- tainly one of the most degrading and most perni- cious vices that can stain the dignity of a royal person. It deserves, however, to be mentioned, as indicating a superior mind in Abbas Mirza, that he has sent Persians for education to England. In like manner he sent one of his learned men to MEANA. 137 India, who wrote for his use an interesting account of our transactions and institutions in Hindostan. The king has declared his wish that this prince should succeed him on the throne ; and it is said that on the whole princes being assembled before his majesty, he ordered his other sons to salute the fa- vourite as their future sovereign, when Mahomed Ally, Prince of Kermanshah, (the eldest son,) repli- ed, that he hoped his majesty might live for many years, but as to the succession, the sword should de- termine that. The policy of the Persian government, during this reign, has been to make the princes governors of provinces j and thus to entrust them with little less than supreme power. This policy has given peace to the reigning monarch and to the state ; but it promises to produce a dreadful scene of anarchy and bloodshed at his death. The utmost exertions of the different brothers will be made to gain the throne ; and the strongest must clear the state of the others, by cutting off the heads, or putting out the eyes of those that are not fortunate enough to escape in safety from the kingdom. The prime minister followed some miles in rear of the prince, in a buggy, the only wheel- ed carriage I had seen in Persia. It is said that the present monarch of Persia has about fifty sons, and as many daughters, living, and that at least an equal number of his progeny are 138 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. deceased ; so that his whole family must have ex- ceeded 200. He is at present only about fifty years of age. More than twenty of the elder sons are governors of cities and provinces ; but I have already observed that Abbas Mirza, the second son, is the king's favourite. We arrived this day at Turkmaun-Shahea, where we had good quarters, and the nicest butter for breakfast I had tasted since I left Bengal. In the evening I walked out for a few minutes, and col- lected on a hill close to our house a great many flowers of all descriptions and colours. Friday^ ^3d. — The country, through which we now passed, was much more populous and culti- vated than any we had before seen. This may, in some measure, be attributed to climate, but more so to the superior government, as we never saw deserted villages now. There was no accom- modation to be found in the little village of Kar- rachummun ; and we were, in consequence, obliged to take up a position under a few trees, which, to- gether with a blanket which my servant put up, afforded me protection from a scorching mid-day sun. I generally slept in the open air at night, on the top of a house or caravansera, if possible. Saturday, Qith. — We arrived at Oojaun twenty iiiiiiul.es before ten o'clock in the morning, and oc- cupied one of the arches of a bridge of three, which TABREEZ. 131) is thrown across the stream that waters this valley. The water passes under the other two, and we found our quarters pretty comfortable. In the centre of the valley, which is covered with culti- vation or fine pasturage, stands a good-looking house belonging to the prince of Tabreez. Sunday t 9.5th. — The first part of this day's march was rather pleasant. We rode on at a trot, for a couple of hours, after which the road became very bad from loose sand and stones. A servant of Capt. Willock's met us on the road, and conducted us to Tabreez, the approach to which was through roads lined with gardens, the trees of which at this time exhibited a fine crop of all kinds of fruits. Captain Willock received us very politely. He gave us an elegant breakfast, at which we had excellent her- rings from the Caspian Sea ; and after breakfast Captain Hart, of his Britannic Majesty's 65th regi- ment, came to see us. As Captain Willock could not conveniently accommodate so formidable a par- ty, Dr. Lumsden only remained with him ; Mj-. Law got a room at Dr. Cormick's, and I had a very nice one at Captain Hart's. All the gentlemen, our countrymen here, were extremely kind and hospitable. Captain Willock had engaged our party to dine with the Russian Charge d' Affaires, Mr. Miserawitch, at whose house we had a choice en- 140 JOURNEY FR03I INDIA TO BRITAIN. tertainment in the French style. We formed a party of" about fifteen Europeans, viz. Russians, French, and English. I could not help being much gratified by the kind attention of those foreigners. Monday, July 3d. — We mounted at a quarter before five o'clock, P. M. and started from Tabreez, accompanied by Captains Willock, Hart, and Camp- bell, and Dr. Cormick, for several miles, when they took leave, and we offered them a thousand thanks for their great kindness during the seven days we sojourned there. To Captain Hart I am under particular obligations, for his extreme attention to my little wants and comforts, during this period of rest. No man, who has not been similarly situated, can fancy to himself the pleasure of meeting with a hearty welcome, and all the comforts of English living, after wandering among an ignorant and barbarous people for liundreds of miles, in the course of whicli nothing like comfort could be look- ed for. Tabreez is an extensive but poor city, not having fine bazars or large buildings of any description to boast of The frequency of earthquakes may, in some measure, deter men from rearing good houses to-day, whicli may, by a single shock, kiss the earth to-morrow. Indeed there was a slight earth- (piake wliilc we were there. There are a great TABREEZ. 141 many superior gardens all round the city, to which I paid repeated visits ; and from the summit of the ruins of a Turkish fort without, and the tower of a building (also constructed while the country was ruled by the Turks) within the city, I had a superior view of it. Tabreez is surrounded by a high mud wall and deep ditch, with out-works thrown up to cover the gateways. The city might hold out against a Persian force for a time ; but its defences are too contemptible to withstand a regu- lar Russian force for a couple of days. There is at Tabreez an European lady residing with her husband, a native of Persia, to whom she was married during his residence in England, whither he had been sent for his education by Abbas Mirza. He is a gun-smith, an excellent workman, and in other respects a man of consi- derable merit. He treats his wife with great kind- ness, yet there is much to be said against the propriety of such matches, which of late have be- come frequent. This part of Persia contains mines of lead, cop- per, tin, and coal.- A few years ago a gentleman of the name of Williamson offered to open and work the copper mines, on fair terms. The work was actually begun, and a quantity of copper sent to tlie Prince, who, though sensible of the great value of such an undertaking, and even after agreeing 14^2 JOURNEY FR0:M INDIA TO BRITAIN. to the conditions, broke off, from a fear of the gentleman's making too much. Mr. Williamson returned to Europe ; and thus the earth still retains her treasures. Some men contracted to perform a certain work for 17,000 tomauns. I think it was the erection of a small piece of fortification. When finished, the performance was surveyed and approv- ed of, and the men were paid. A short time after- wards, it was hinted to the Prince that the con- tractors had accomplished the job for 14,000: " Oh ! is that the case ? Send them here," said the Prince. The people came, and after suffering a severe bastinading, they were obliged to refund the difference So much for Persian faith and Ab- bas Mirza. That pait of the Persian territories, which rests on the shores of the Caspian Sea, produces wood of every description, and fruit without culture, to such an extent that the natives send into the woods for all they require. My informer on this subject, Mr. Armstrong, whose local knowledge is very extensive, and to be relied on, reports, that the climate on the Caspian shores is very inferior to that of Tabrcez, being very moist and hot ; and that the peoj)le are unhealthy. Large fields of rice are cultivated ; and the exhalations from them must always prove i)rc'ju(licial to health. At this season ihey have generally heavy falls of rain, MAHRAUND. 143 while, at the distance of 100 miles from the sea, the air is as dry as possible, and not a drop falls. It is supposed that the Prince of Tabreez has en- tered into engagements with the Russian govern- ment, to insure him their support, in the expected contest for the Persian throne. The probability is, that he may give them a province or two, in the first instance, and ultimately become a mere tool in the hands of the Emperor. Indeed the Russian gentlemen talk very confidently, of the intention of their government to take the lead in the Persian councils in future j and some of their officers have spoken of the invasion of British India as not at all so desperate an undertaking. It were a pity to waken them from so charming a dream. Tuesday^ Wi. — A long and very hot march to Mahraund, which we did not reach until half past eleven, A. M. On dismounting I found my- self stiflT and uncomfortable ; and, as breakfast was not ready, I went to the warm baths in the town, and derived the utmost benefit from them. In- deed, I cannot fancy any thing more renovating to a wearied traveller. The attendant at the baths proposed to colour the hair of my mustachoes and whiskers hlacky according to the Persian taste, which, though a simple and harmless operation, I declined. 144 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Wednesday, 5th. — We found the sun very power- ful, and were glad to get to our journey's end, at Ghurghur, S2 miles. Thursday, Q>th. — Marched at 2h. 5m. A. M. and within two hours crossed the Araxes of the an- cients, on a flat bottomed boat, and entered Arme- nia. At the end of six hours we were in sight of Mount Ararat. Friday, Jth. — We intended to march overnight, and I lay down in my clothes to wait the arrival of our baggage horses ; but, after calling for them, from time to time, during the night, the morning made its appearance, and we were constrained to halt a day, from the misconduct of our muleteer. We had been, for two days past, quartered in the house of an Armenian family, in which there were some pretty women and fine children. Saturday, Hth. — Marched last night at seven P. M. and I made the best of my way until two A. M. when the Melunaindar, my servant, (an Ar- menian, whom I hired at Tabrcez, and who proved an uncommonly smart fellow,) another traveller, and myself, laid our carpets down and slept soundly on a hill for a couple of hours ; while our horses plucked what they could get around us. At four we again mounted, and reached Shared at six o'clock A. M. Oiu- resting place to-day was a MOUNT ARAUAT. 14^ village, in a liighly cultivated valley, amply supplied with water. Sunday, 9th. — We halted this day, in consequence of Dr. Lumsden's being so fatigued as to be unable to proceed. Mondaij, 10th. — We mounted last night at seven o'clock, and arrived at DaivuUoo, a village of Ar- menia, near the base of Mount Ararat, at half-past one o'clock this morning. On the march yester- day evening, before it became dark, I had a nearer view of Mount Ararat, which consists of two co- nical mountains, of great height, one of which has its summit covered with perpetual snow. I saw ~ the Araxes flowing under me to the left, in a direction nearly parallel to our line of march. The world does not contain a nobler object for contemplation or reflection, than the sacred moun- tain on which the wreck of the antediluvian world rested, after the destruction of every living crea- ture, except the few that were saved to replenish the earth. It is still believed by the inhabitants of the surrounding country that the ark of Noah rests in the snow on the inaccessible summit of this mountain. Tuesday y llth. — We arrived at Erivan about three, A.M. Mr. Middleton of the Bengal civil ser- vice joined us, and went off again in advance, in the L 146 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. forenoon. Erivan is one of the most romantic spots I have seen in Persia. We were quartered in the house of an estabhshment of Armenian Priests, which stands very high, immediately over the banks of the Zauger, a rapid river, rushing over rocks, and winding round the fort of Erivan, with a beautiful sweep. There was a water mill close to us on this side the river, a pretty garden-house of the khan's on the other, beyond which was a highly cultivated and well wooded valley, bounded by Mount Ararat. The fort of Erivan is famous for a successful re- sistance it made in the year 1808, against a Rus- sian division, which besieged it, under General Godovitch. It is said that the besiegers were repulsed after getting within the body of the place. The khan who defended it, and who is very proud of the exploit, is, I understand, still its governor. Wednesdaij, V2th. — I went to inspect the place, and would not advise his Excellency to be too confident of a similar result, should the Russians feel disposed to repeat the visit. The fort is small, built of mud, with stones mixed, which would tumble down in fine style before a well served battery. Besides, the place is commanded by an eminence within fiOO yards to the westward of it. ASHTERREK. 147 It unfortunately happened that Dr. Lumsden had been, for some days, hibouring under an attack of fever and ague. We were now in the middle of our journey, in the very heart of the continent of Asia Minor, without the aid of wheeled car- riages, or litters of any kind, and Teflis, (more than a hundred miles distant,) the nearest town to which we could look for medical aid. We this day received a present of fish and wine from the bishop of the Armenian church at Euchclissia, or Schmeatzee, which was accompanied by a splen- did Armenian letter, decorated with various orna- ments. This church is situated near Ararat, and is said to be one of the oldest Christian establish- ments in the world. The bishop's letter I have kept as a curiosity, for the gratification of my friends. The Honourable Mr. Law, being anxious to proceed on his journey, here left us. Friday, I4 ing just had the pleasure of bathing in the Sea of Azof. At this sultry season, and more especially after the filth and fleas, with which we had been infested for some time, in the post-houses, the exercise of swimming in this magnificent lake*, was beyond de- scription delectable ; and recalled to my recollec- tion the beautiful lines of my countryman Thomson, with the most powerful effect. Never were they uttered by one, in circumstances more calculated to excite an enthusiastic feeling of their justice. " This is the purest exercise of health, The kind refresher of the summer heats ; Nor, when cold winter keens the brightening flood. Would I weak shivering linger on the brink. Thus life redoubles, and is oft preserved By the bold swimmer in the swift illapse Of accident disastrous. Hence the limbs Knit into force ; and the same Roman arm That rose victorious o'er the conquer'd earth. First learn'd, while tender, to subdue the wave. Even from the body's purity, the mind Receives a secret sympathetic aid." On entering the Sea of Azof, Dr. Lumsden and 1 were astonished to find the water Jreshy inso- much that the cattle and horses were drinking of it. The waters of the Don are discharged into it * Palus Mccolis, according to the ancient geographers. 186 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN'. at a short distance from this place, and hence the cause of the phenomenon now noticed. In the evening I accompanied Captain Breiner, one of the four Russian officers who were of our party, to see the assembly rooms and gardens, which are very neat ; and, on the way, we had a draught of quasst — a beverage, of which the Russians are very fond, made by steeping bread in water for some days, until the liquor ferments, when it is poured off' and drunk ; and a refresliing enough draught it is, for those who are fond of acids. Tuesday, Q^d. — After breakfast. Dr. Lumsden and I paid a visit to Mr. James, the British vice- consul at this place, and found him a polite gen- tleman-like young man. He offered us every as- sistance, and asked us to accompany him to pay a visit to the governor of Toganrog, General Pap- koff", which we did in the course of the forenoon. The governor received us most courteously. He expressed himself as astonished at the journey we had undertaken, and asked us to dine with him on the following day. Wednesdaijy 'ZSd. — I had been much cm})loyed yesterday and to-day, looking out for a carriage of some kind on spi^ings. There were a great many in the place for sale. Some, however, were too high priced ; others too old, slight, or faulty in TOGAMIOG. 187 other particulars. At three o'clock we went to the governor's, where we met a party of gentle- men, and a pleasant, agreeable lady. His excel- lency was most attentive ; and we had a handsome entertainment in the Russian style. One dish was introduced at a time, and, being already carved, it was carried round, for each person to help himself. Wines are drunk during dinner, but none after- wards. Coffee is invariably introduced after din- ner, to finish the entertainment. This governor had been recalled to St. Petersburgh, and a succes- sor to him had been appointed, in consequence of some differences, with the particulars of which I am not acquainted ; but it was a subject of much regret to the people in general at Toganrog. I spent the evening at the house of Mr. Bertrand, a respectable merchant of this place. This gen- tleman is a native of Scotland. I afterwards saw his mother in Edinburgh. Thursday i ^4}th. — We bought a breechkay or good roomy Russian carriage, having two springs be- hind only, while the fore part of the body of the carriage rests on the axle. For this vehicle we gave ISOO paper rubles, equal to about ^54 Sterling, ac- cording to the rate of exchange at that time. After breakfast I accompanied Mr. James to a fair, at which I saw herds of horses brought in by the Cal- 188 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. muck Tartars, quite wild, most of them having ne- ver been backed ; and they were driven in herds like oxen. I had an opportunity of witnessing the astonishing expertness of a Tartar, in taking one of these horses out of a herd. A man in the fair wished to purchase a particular horse, and the Tartar rode up to the herd. He had a long rope with a running noose upon it, which he threw over the head of the animal, and caught him round the neck ; this the horse no sooner felt, than he set oft) as hard as he could gallop, through the fair, the Tartar holding by the other end of the rope, until he found the horse had the speed of the one on which he was mounted, when he was compelled to quit his hold, but still continued to chace ; and the horse led him a long circuit around the outside of the fair. At last, after many twistings and turnings, the man came within the length of the rope again, when, with much agility, he stooped down and caught hold of it, after which he pushed the horse, until he evi- dently became a good deal blown ; then, giving the rope a turn round his thigh, he gave the beast such a jerk, that it nearly choked him, and brought him at once to a stand. There was an immense number of horses standing in herds. They are the property of Cossaks ; and the Tartars are only al- lowed to keep a few for themselves, for their trou- ble in taking care of ihuni. 'I'lic horses thus bred TOGANROG. 180 are first picked by the agents of the government for the Russian army ; and the pick costs about 200 rubles a horse, or.L.8, 6s. 8d. Sterling. Those horses, which are not wanted for the army, or for the Cossaks themselves, are sold in this fair on an average at half the above rate. The Calmuck Tartars resemble much the Indian Goorcahs, both in face and figure. They have ex- actly their square countenances and very small feet: they appear cheerful, good-humoured fel- lows. The women of the Tartars wear their hair in two plats, put into bags on each side of the head ; and several of them had red leather boots up to their knees. I have seen some of their houses, which are circular, made of sticks, and covered with clothes. They have a door in one side, and a hole in the roof for the emission of smoke. I am told, that when a stranger stops at one of their habitations, it is the duty of the lady of the house to take his horse from him, and take every care of the animal. She also holds the stirrup when he mounts to depart. At the fair of Toganrog, mer- chandize of every sort, and cattle of all kinds, are exposed for sale. There are two fairs annually, one in the month of May, and the other being the grand fair at this period. Toganrog is a very flourishing town. The one half of the houses are new, and a great many are 190 JOURNKY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN". only building. The exports here are chiefly furs, grain, iron, and tallow. It has been recently dis- covered, that for the purchase of those articles this place is most favourably situated. During the winter the Sea of Azof is frozen over ; and the merchants employ that season in making purchases for the cargoes of the expected ships in spring. I am aware of only one great ob- jection to this port. The beach is so extremely flat, that the ships are obliged to lie far off, and to send and receive their cargoes from the shore, in small craft. Many carts, drawn by tall horses, and having platforms raised upon them, are employed in removing goods from the small vessels, which lie half a mile from the shore, to the warehouses of the merchants. The gentle folks use a small Russian carriage, called a di^osky, or drosJihj, for moving about in, at this season, and sledges in winter. The latter are very well made, and calculated for their purpose ; but the former is the most ridiculous thing I ever saw. It consists of small wheels, and merely a seat, with something resembling wings at the sides. In a drosky, when the weather is wet, you have all the benefit of rain from above, and mud from be- low ; and in dry weather you have no protection from llio Sim, and the aih'antagc of moving in a SOUOLFf. lyi cloud of dust. They have generally two horses ; and two people can ride in them. Friday^ 'i5th. — After having received the most kind attention from Mr. James, the vice-consul, Mr. Hare, his partner in business, and Mr. Ber- trand, we left Toganrog about noon for Odessa. We crossed a river at the end of the first stage. We also crossed two small rivers in the two following days ; but nothing deserving of notice occurred. We rested at common post-houses. The popula- tion of the country is here very scanty. Mondayy ^Sth. — We reached Sodolfi, and had clean comfortable lodging. The country became now more populous ; but still we passed vast tracts, on which nothing but hay for horses was rear- ed. Tuesday, ^9th. — During the greater part of this day we had been travelling parallel to the river Dnieper, the opposite bank of which is well wood- ed ; but there is not a tree near the road. This road is still good, but many ascents retarded our progress. All this tract is called the Steppes, and nothing but hay is to be seen upon it. At the end of the first stage, when within a couple of wersts of the village of Zenamanski, we passed an encampment of a fine park of horse-artillery. Thirty- six pieces were parked in complete style parallel to the road, and close upon it, so that we 192 JOURXEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN'. had a good ojiportunity of seeing them as we passed slowly along. Their caliber appeared to be that of twelve pounders j manner of parking much the same as ours ; guns unlimbered in front, with their limbers in the rear ; and a waggon in the rear of the limber; forming three lines. In the rear of the encampment there were large heavy waggons, and all appeared to be in admirable order. The tents of the men were very neatly pitched, close to each other, in lines perpendicular to the front, but some thatched houses, witliin the encamp- ment, rather spoiled its general appearance. The Russian soldiers whom we now met were smartly- dressed, good looking men. From the post-house in the village of Zenamanski, where we breakfast- ed, I went to see some horses, which, from their appearance and that of their riders, must have be- longed to the regular Russian cavalry. They were brought up to be watered in troughs at a well, and I certainly never saw finer looking ani- mals, in point of size and shape ; but they did not shew much blood ; all mares and geldings. Wednesday^ SOlh. — The post-houses were now generally in charge of Jews, who almost invaria- ably tried to impose on us. For this and other reasons, I found it absolutely necessary to assume a threatening and blustering manner, and some- limes even to go a little farther among these KHERSON. ly.j rogues. Wc slept at a post-house on the banks of* the Dnieper, and crossed that fine river this morn- ing on a great clumsy platform boat. Passing a number of windmills close to the town, we ar- , rived at Kherson about two, P. M. where we took up our abode in the house of a Jew. Thursday, SlsL — In consequence of its being necessary to make some repairs on our carriage, we were detained at Kherson until two o'clock this day ; and, after breakfast, we rode out, in a hired drosky, to see a little of the town. Kherson lies near the mouth of the Dnieper, and is a town of considerable extent, without hav- ing much beauty to recommend ft. The wooden walls, wooden roofs, and wooden pales for enclo- sures, give such a degree of sameness to the whole, as to have a very bad effect. There are, however, some good houses and handsome churches, the roofs of which are covered with sheet iron, painted blue or green, which looks very well, and is extremely durable. The Dnieper is here a majestic stream ; and ships of considerable burden are moored oft* the town. In this city the philanthropic exertions of tlie immortal Howard were brought to a close. When visiting a jail here he caught that fever which ter- minated his laudable career. A monument was o 19't JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN, long ago erected over his remains ; but I heard that a Russian nobleman has determined to do ho- nour to his memory, by building a more magnifi- cent one. There is a fort near the town of Kherson, but which I had not an opportunity of visiting. We made three stages to NikolaefF, where we arrived a little before sunset. Nikolaeff is a handsome town, standing on a peninsula formed by a winding of the river Bog, which is about a mile broad opposite to it. Like Kherson it is near to the Black Sea, without being exactly in sight of it. Immediately on our arrival at a kind of an inn, kept by a Jew, we dressed and proceeded to pay a visit to our countryman. Admiral Greig, who commanded the Russian fleet in the Black Sea. We were most politely received both by him and another British ofiicer, also in tiie Russian navy. The admiral wished us to spend a day with him at his residence, delightfully situated on the banks of the Bog, about two miles from Niko- laeff; but we were anxious to prosecute our jour- ney, and only paid him a Hying visit, during which he offered us every assistance and kindness. Admiral Greig is a handsome man, of pleasing manners, and, being a great favourite with the emperor, of course wears many medals and 3 NIKOLAEFF. IQ.^ badges of honour ; but no man of any rank or situation is to be seen in Russia, without some of these ornaments, as I have already had occasion to remark. The country still retained the same appearance, in general, which it had, with few exceptions, since we lef I Mosdok : we saw no trees, nor even brush- wood ; nor was there almost a stone to be met with, ever since we crossed the mountains of the Caucasus. We were much refreshed in tra- velling, during the heat of the day, by delicious water melons, which we procured at a very cheap rate, at almost every post-house. Friday J September \sL — Crossed the river Bog, with a fine fair wind, in a large boat at sunrise. Within two stages of Odessa, one of our fore- wheels, which had been frequently repaired, en- tirely gave way; and the carriage broke down within a couple of wcrsts of the post-house. Con- templating this as a probable accident, we had provided a spare cart, in which we proceeded to the other post-house, within eighteen wersts of Odessa, where we slept for the night. Durmg this last stage we had a view of the Black Sea, close to the road, and several ships were in sight under sail. Saturday, ^d. — We had a very pleasant drive in o2 190 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. a cart into the city of Odessa this morning, and took up our quarters in a French hotel. In com- ing along the road parallel to the sea, we had a fine view of the city and port. The former stands high, in the north-west corner of the Black Sea, in 460 North Lat. and 32^ East Long. The city having been almost entirely built within the last fifteen years, the clean and neat appearance of the liouses, has a pleasing effect, while a forest of masts, at the Mole, conveys some idea of the wealth and consequence of the place. After breakfast we paid a visit to Mr. James, the British consul-general, and also to Messrs. Simmond and Hearn, by all of whom we were very kindly received. We brought letters of introduction to Mr. James from liis brother at Togunrog, and dined with him and his family this day. They live in hand- some style, in one of the most elegant houses in Odessa. After our peregrinations among barbarous na- tions, we thus found ourselves at last in a flourish- ing Christian city, on the borders of Europe. By the route which we had taken from the cast, the changes observable in the manners and cus- toms of" tlie various nations, as well as their co- lours, had often been sudden ; but the approach to these comparatively civilized regions was ex- ODESSA. 197 tremely gradual. On my arrival at Bombay from Bengal, I found a marked difference in tlie peo- ple. At Muskat, in Arabia, again, tlie change was much more striking. The costumes, ap- pearance, and mode of living of the Arabs, be- ing very different from those of any people I had an opportunity of seeing on the continent of India. Bushire, though in Persia, is an Arab colony, and its inhabitants differ in no respect from those of the towns on the opposite coast. But one no sooner advances into the Persian ter- ritories, than he finds himself among a much more gay, lively, voluptuous people than the Arabs. On passing from Persia into Georgia, after having been so long accustomed to the swarthy Asiatics, I met large bodies of rough, coarse, but compara- tively fair [Russian soldiers. Still, however, our approach to the regions of civilization was almost imperceptible, for the Russian troops were only birds of passage ; and the natives of Georgia live in wretched style, and are scarcely superior to those of Hindostan in intellectual acquirements. Mosdok, perhaps, presents the first appearance of a people, in some measure superior to the Asia- tics. But a vast tract of country still lies to the north and west, that must be traversed before one reaches Odessa, which is but on the borders of the enliglitened portion of Europe. o 3 U)S JOURNEY 1-11031 INDIA TO BRITAIN. Sunday, 3d. — We dined with the consul, and spent the evening also at his house, where we ex- perienced the greatest attention. His mother and wife are very genteel women, and his brothers fine young men. Our invitation to his house was now general, when not otherwise engaged, dur- ing our sojourn at Odessa. Monday, 4th. — This morning we accompanied Mr. James, to be introduced to his excellency the Count Launjerons, Governor-general of this part of Russia. He was very polite, and invited us to dine with him on the 6th inst. The Count has been many years in the Russian service, and is quite an intelligent, soldier-looking man. He is descended of one of the first families in France. His government is one of the most important in Russia, comprehending all the countries border- ing on the northern shores of the Black Sea, the Crimea, and as far as the Don, which separates it iiom General YermaIoft''s government of the Cau- cass. We dined this day with Messrs. Simmonds and Hearn, at whose table we met a small and agreeable party of gentlemen, one of whom was a lUrmer from England settled in this neighbour- hood. In passing over such a vast extent of fine clear, bill waste lands, as lie between Odessa and IMos- ODKSSA. 109 dok, it occurred to me tliat English farmers miglit settle in this quarter, with far greater advantages than are held out to them by going to the Cape of Good Hope or America. On inquiry, how- ever, it appears that such a speculation is attended with very decided objections, more particularly to adventurers, who have not a considerable capi- tal to commence with. The price of labour here to a stranger is high, while, extraordinary as it may appear, that of grain is low. This arises from the peasants being the property of the no- bles or proprietors of estates, and obliged to work for them, so many days of the week. These pro- prietors dispose of immense quantities of their superfluous produce thus raised, at rates which render it impossible for farmers, without the same advantages, to enter into competition with themj for these farmers must pay about a ruble, or 4s. 6d. Sterling a-day, for the services of a man, who is independent of them. In one respect, this country presents advan- tages to settlers, beyond any other country I have ever seen ; for it is naturally perfectly clean and free from stones and brushwood. Nothing re- quires to be done but to make a well, and set your ploughs to work, instead of being obliged to sink a fortune in preparing tiie land for the share. 200 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. The chief expense would be the building of houses, as it might be requisite to bring the wood from a considerable distance. The species of property, which constitutes the riches of a Russian noble* man, appears strange enough at first to .a man little acquainted with the state of that vast em- pire. For example, in talking of a certain count, they say, " he is a very rich man, he has at least 25,000 men on his estates," i. e. he can command a portion of the labour of tliat number of 7nen; for women and children are not reckoned. Anotlicr source of wealth to tlie proprietor of an estate, arises from his monopoly of spirits, tlie profits arising from all consumed within the estate being solely his. Were such a monopoly enjoyed by the Highland lairds of Scotland, their income would be augmented very consider- ably. But it will, no doubt, be said that this prac- tice gives the proprietor such a direct interest in the encouragement of intemperance and immora- lity, that it is surprising the Russians of the pre- sent day should allow it. We should, however, recollect that, in Britain and her colonics, a sys- tem exists wiiich, I fear, has as strong a tenden- cy to demoralize tiic lower orders. But 1 nnist not so fai cjiiil my proper path on the ])rcseiil oc- t;iHon, as t" it and counfri/ serve to lead the great mass under the guidance of a few heads. The immense extent of the Rus.sian empire also i)revcnts the despotism of the great from pressing heavily in detail upon the people ; and, finally, above all, the reli- gious and military spirit is so predominant in the nation, that allow- ance may be made for a great many errors, in favour of those two great sources of noble actions. A person of fine intellect said that Uiissia resembled the plays of Shakespeare, in irhir/i all that is not fhulhf i.t xuhlimc ; and all Hint is not sublime is fault ji ; an observation of remarkable justice." 13H0DY. 219 the Russian horses to the greatest advantage. In winter, I am told, they look miserable, which I can readily believe, from their being all geldings. Saturday^ September l6ih. — The population of Brody being chiefly Jewish, the whole place was quiet, and all business at a stand, this day being their Sabbath. After breakfast we walked out to see the town, and I think it is, without exception, the most dirty, filthy place I have ever seen. As we were only travelling during the day, and economy was an object with us, we determined on trying the plan of hiring one set of four horses from a Jew, to take us from hence to Vienna, for which we agreed to pay forty ducats*, and we were to be thus transported thither in eleven days. This plan was much cheaper than that of hiring the post horses, and for us, perhaps, just as expeditious. From a miserable want of arrangement in the Austrian government, we were compelled to re- main here until our passports were sent to Lem- berg, about seventy miles distant, and others pro- vided for us from the same quarter ; nor were we even allowed to proceed to that place, although it was directly in our route. We were at the ex- pense of sending an express with our passports. We had, however, got into a very good inn, the * A ducat is 9s. -id. Sterling. 2'20 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. rooms of which were handsomely painted, and provided with stoves. These occupy a good deal of space in most rooms ; but here we had hand- some small cast-iron ones, which, instead of prov- ing an incumbrance, are rather ornamental pieces of furniture. Sunday, September IJth. — About noon our pass- ports were returned, accompanied by Austrian ones, for which, and the expense of the express, we had to pay ninety florins *. Within a couple of hours we set oft" and after experiencing much civiHty at the custom-house, we proceeded on our journey slowly, over a capital made road, as straight as a rush. When about three German miles from Brody, we passed a fine castle, belonging to the Polish prince Cherinkski. It stands high, and is surrounded by a well-wooded, very pretty coun- try. Tiie road passes between the castle, and w'hat we took to be tlie private chapel of the prince, which is very handsome indeed, being a circular building, with a dome and splendid por- tico, supported on Corinthian pillars, bearing many statues of saints, kc. as large as life, and apparently well executed. The front of this edi- fice has a very rich appearance. The castle is so enclosed with trees and gardens as to prevent * A (H'rinan florin is Us. 3d. Stcrlinp. LEMBERG. 2^21 our obtaining a distinct view of it. This evening being a high festival among the Jews, we attended a synagogue in the village where we slept. The building was divided into two parts, one for the men, the other for the women. I did not remark any thing particular in the dress of the latter, but the men were clothed in white gowns, many of which had high embroidered collars, and all the people appeared exceedingly earnest in their de- votions. Some, while reading, what we took for the Old Testament, were beating their heads and breasts, and bathed in tears; all were reading aloud, while an immense number of candles were burning. Monday y ISth. — We found the road remarkably good, and the numerous landscapes presented to our view, as we passed along, extremely beautiful. I observed the female sex employed in various oc- cupations in Gallicia, which I had never seen them attempt before. Men and women were working to- gether in repairing the roads. A man or boy holds the plough, and a woman drives the cattle, which are usually a pair of horses in front of a pair of bul- locks. I further observed two women thrashing grain with flails. I cannot say 1 admire the sys- tem of out-door work for the ladies. We had been pestered by innumerable beggars since we entered this province. As we approach- 222 JOURNEY FROM IXDIA TO BRITAIN. ed the city of Lemberg, we met many travellers of distinction ; and the country became very roman- tic. The first view we had of the city was from the summit of a hill, when all at once we had a bird's eye view, embracing the whole of the spires, churches, and finest part of it in the foreground, with the less interesting objects behind. On entering Lemberg, we passed a grand hos- pital for the Austrian soldiers, on our left, and were particularly struck with the splendid houses of the city in general. We drove to the Russian hotel, which is quite a palace, both in its external appearance and interior accommodations; and af- ter giving orders for dinner, we sallied forth to pay a visit to one of the chief Jesuit priests, to whom we had brought a letter of introduction from his brother at JNIosdok. We found the priest very polite, but could not expect much attention from him, as he was but a guest himself in the house of a friend next door to the Dominican church. Af- ter our visit we entered the Dominican church, and found it a splendid building, both in its proportions and decorations. The centre of the church is of an oval shape, surmounted by a high cupola. Co- rintliian piUars supjjort a fine organ at one end, and many well executed statues of saints all round, while, at the oj)positc end, the altar makes a mag- LEMBERG. 223 nificent display. When we had satisfied our curio- sity in the church, we made our guide shew us all over the city, and I pronounce it to be one of the finest of its size to be seen any where, The houses are generally three or four stories high, besides the attic ; they are built with great taste, and many of them highly ornamented with mouldings over the windows, and compartments of figures between them. You seldom meet mean and splendid houses in the same street ; all being generally good, and many elegant. The Austrian guard-houses in Lemberg are very neat, appropriate buildings ; and the soldiers are smart, good-looking men, in a white uniform, with caps similar to what the British gre- nadiers formerly wore. After dinner we went to the German theatre, and spent a very pleasant evening. We did not understand much of what was said ; but the danc- ing, scenery, and music, were extremely good, and a great treat to us, after spending such a pe- riod, removed from the civilized societies of both the East and West. The theatre was badly light- ed, (as is generally the case through Austria and France,) and, I think, defective in shape, being too deep for its breadth. The house was not full. Tuesday y 19lh. — We left Lemberg at sun- rise this morning, exceedingly gratified by the sight we QQif JOURNEY FROM IXDIA TO BRITAIN. had of it. In many of the houses I observed double window-frames, with windows within and without, which is a good plan in cold climates ; and the Po- lonese have frequently exotic plants in flower- pots between the inner and outer windows, which are very pretty. Thus they have the advantage of ei- ther the heat of the sun, or of the stove in the room, without giving one the trouble of removing them at any season. The morning was delightful, and we enjoyed our drive very much. When passing through a village we met a troop of Austrian dragoons, well mounted and appointed, white uniform, with long boots and helmets, but the latter I thought very ugly. We saw the Carpathian mountains, which separate Gal- licia from Hungary, parallel to us on the left. The province of Gallicia fell to the share of Aus- tria at the dismemberment of Poland, and is as fine a country in every respect as I have ever seen. Wednesdaij, QOth. — This day was not so pleasant as yesterday, for we had a cold rainy morning. We j)assed a fine church and monastery at .Jaraslow, in tiie forenoon, and a fine old fortified castle at Land- suit, the property of Count Potolski, in the even- ing. I was gratified by the sight of an Austrian battalion of infantry, tliis morning. The men were generally young and good-looking, but their dress was particnlarly inran and shabby. This 1 con- JANOW. ' 225 elude to be a sort of every-day uniform, while the fine white cloth coats are reserved for grand occa- sions. The officers were smart, well-dressed gen- tlemen. We had an opportunity of inspecting them minutely, as they passed down a street by companies, while we came up the same street. Thursday, ^\sL — Weather cloudy and unplea- sant. We met a great many large waggons with four or six horses, moving slowly along the road. • I never saw horses so badly yoked for draught as in this country ; the pole-horses are usually a horse's length from the carriages ; and the leaders a great deal too far from them again. A miserable hovel of a Jew's house on the road- side was all that presented itself for our accommo- dation last night. There was such an offensive smell in it, that I had my carpet placed under the canopy of heaven, as I had been wont to do in Persia and Georgia ; but I was no longer in a climate to be depended on for an hour ; it began to rain, and I was obliged to retreat into the house in the mid- dle of the night, with a slight cold as a reward for the experiment. Friday^ 22c?. — Soon after leaving Janow this morning we came past a regiment of Austrian dra- goons, which was assembling for exercise from that and the neighbouring villages. They were well mounted and accoutred ; their uniform white. I 226 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. remarked many ofthe troopers smoking in the ranks as they rode along, which is rather an unmiHtary practice. The ramrods ofthe pistols were not at- tached to them, but fastened by a thong to the cross- belts. Their helmets were ugly, boots long, but the men well put on their horses. We arrived at Wielicza, or Velitzka, soon after sunset. Saturday, Q3d. — This morning we went to see the far-famed salt mines, situated in this town. The mouth of the mine is covered by a large wood- en building, in which the machinery is worked for raising up the salt, &c. from it. This machinery consists of a horizontal wheel, with cogs, turned by four horses, which wheel moves a vertical one, the axis whereof crosses the mouth of the mine, and upon this axis the rope is coiled and uncoiled, which hoists or lowers. The conductor, who came to us with the governor's permission for our seeing the mine, brought us white gowns, which we put on over our clothes, in order to save them from dirt, while four boys prepared their lamps for our descent. Slings were prepared, into which the boys were first lowered down a short way : we then got into another set of slings above them ; and all descended a square sluift of Ibrty fathoms. From thence we walked along fine broad galleries, cut through eithcr-rock salt or earth, which, in the latter case, were lined and covered by trunks of VELITZKA. 227 trees. We passed down many flights of wooden stairs, until we visited the five stages of excavation, which have been executed by the continued la- bours of the miners, during several centuries, and which have now passed under a considerable extent of the town of Velitzka. The extreme depth, to which we descended, was, according to the state- ment of our conductor, 138 toises, or 828 feet. At the bottom we came to a pool of water, in an immense cavern, which we crossed in a sort of boat. In one cavern we viewed an elegant pyra- mid, erected, or rather cut, in honour of the pre- sent Emperor of Austria, with an inscription in letters of gold to that effect. In another there were chandeliers of salt, and a fine fancy front of a gateway, with transparencies. In a third we found the interior of a chapel, with a figure of our Sa- viour on the Cross, and several other figures, re- presenting the Kings of Poland, all cut out of the solid rock salt. Our attendant placed a candle behind one of the figures, which gave it a most extraordinary appearance, being that of a transparent man. To attempt to convey a good idea of those vast subterraneous regions, without plans and drawings, as well as measure- ments, is, 1 think, quite impossible. I shall only say, that I do not believe there is, in the world, such a monument of the power and perseverance £28 JOURNEY FROM IXDIA TO BRITAIN. of man. At one place we passed a spacious ca- vern full of barrels of salt, all prepared for tran- sportation to the upper regions. At another, where a loose soil had intervened between the veins of salt, trunks of trees were piled horizontally upon trees to support the galleries ; and in this way a whole forest must have been requisite, to enable them to penetrate, to such an extent, into the bowels of the earth. At a third place, similar ma- chinery to what we saw at the mouth of the mine was at work, raising salt from the stage beneath ; and the horses, which moved the engine, were con- demned to this labour for life, with no chance of ever ajrain seeinsc the licjht of heaven. Two modes are adopted in digging or excavating the salt, both of which we had an opportunity of witnessing. The first is by cutting out the shape of the block required, and knocking it down by forcing wedges in behind it. The other mode consists in prolong- ing a low gallery, along the top, bottom and sides of the extreme end of which, deep grooves are cut with pick axes ; a hole is then bored in the centre, into whirh about a pound of gunpowder is intro- duced, and the whole end blown out at once, the fragments descending like a shower of grape. There were a great many men at work, and we were obliged to give donations to th.em at differ- ent parts of tiie mines. VELITZKA. 2^29 We were upwards of two hours inspecting these mines ; and when we again ascended, a book was brought for the insertion of our names, in which we saw the signatures of the Ernperor and the Em- press of Austria, and of the Emperor Alexander, all of whom had visited these salt mines. On the occasion of some of these royal visits, the water cavern was illuminated, and a grand concert given in the mine. The period at which this mine was first opened we did not hear ; but if we might credit our con- ductor, the chapel had been excavated 300 years. Names are given to the different galleries of the mine; one of which I observed having that of the Emperor Alexander. After breakfast we left Velitzka, but heavy jain rendered our journey both slow and uncomfortable, and we were obliged to stop at a wretched ale- house in the evening. In the course of the last few days, we had crossed several small rivers, which run into the Vistula. Sunday, 2i4h. — It had now rained for three days without intermission, and we saw no prospect of its clearing up. After proceeding a short dis- tance, exposed to very heavy rain, wo found one of our wheels much injured, and a spring broken j and the report of a bridge having been swept away in our front, induced us to stop at the pri- q3 230 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. vate house of a Jew, who shewed us much civi- hty. We had not been half an hour in this house, when a bridge within 100 yards of it, which we had just crossed, was carried away. Monday y Q,5th. — It cleared up during the night, and we had rather a better prospect than yester- day. With some difficulty we got on to Vadovitz, a small town, where we found a bridge completely destroyed ; and, as the passage of the carriage was likely to be attended with considerable delay, we waded a small river and repaired to a comfortable inn, situated in the town. At this place our car- riage underwent a complete repair. Tuesday^ 9i6t}i. — There had been an unusual quantity of rain, which did much mischief in the country, and we were tiiis morning obliged to ford three rivers, the bridges over which had been swept away. We dined and slept at a comfortable inn, in the town of Teschen. Instead of blankets for our beds, small light feather or down beds were furnished to cover us. It is a prudent precaution to ascertain the price, at which your wine is to be charged, before you drink it. We were here obliged to pay twelve florins a bottle, for very inferior wine, merely from not taking this precaution. Wednesday, QJth. — It rained during the greater part of last night, but cleared up soon after we ruiDECK. 231 started this morning. We breakfasted at the town of Frideck in an elegant inn, where we had a very handsomely furnished room, and a good breakfast, on moderate terms. We had now been able to re- mark, tiiat female beauty is not so rare in Ger- many as in Russia. The view of Frideck from the south is very grand. It is almost joined to the town of Mistok ; and the numerous churches and houses which stand on several heights, in the midst of gardens, have a very striking effect. When we started from Bushire, the people on the shores of the Persian Gulf were gathering their harvest ; and, with trifling intervals, we had seen the different nations engaged in the same em. ployment, throughout our progress. Another re- mark I made, after a residence for a few years in Asia, where the sun is generally so near the me- ridian, was that, on looking at it now, it never appeared to indicate noon-day, but always either the morning or afternoon. Our practice now was to start at day-break, and travel about twelve or fifteen miles, when we stopped to breakfast, and gave the horses a bundle of hay and some water ; after which, we went on until twelve or one o'clock, when we stopped for an hour to refresh our horses j and starting again 232 JOURNEY F1103I INDIA TO BRITAIN. we continued moving until night. In this way we accomplished about fifty English miles, with the same horses, in the course of the day. This af- ternoon we passed the ruin of a fine old castle, on the summit of a hill near the town of Neutits- chein. It is visible at a ^ very great distance offi and is a very picturesque object. Thursday, Q8th. — I had some idea of writing a farewell address to the sun, as I expected to see but little of him for the ensuing six months. Clouds and rain were now the order of the day, so that we saw the charming province of Moravia to great dis- advantage. This morning we met some ladies and gentle- men travelling, their post-boys riding the near pole horse, and driving one, or a pair of leaders in front. The post-boys were now dressed in scarlet jackets, with gold lace, cocked hats and feathers, and a horn slung over their shoulders. They drove at a steady jog trot, slow and sure. The peasants liere generally wear long boots, similar to what the British call military boots ; and their wives, when particularly gay, wear scarlet stockings, without feet, over their boots. About noon to day we pass- ed tlirough the ibrtified town of Olmutz, whicli appeared to me a very strong phice, and the works ill higli order. The streets of tlie town are very fine, the houses being generally handsome j and 13RYNN. '233 now and then we passed a magnificent church or barrack ; for many of the latter are well-propor- tioned and highly ornamented buildings. We met a few parties of infantry in the town ; and our passports were examined at the gate through whicli we passed. I felt it annoying, to see just enough of a fine town to give me every wisli to see more ; yet, had we stopped at every one deserving of no- tice, we should have never got to the end of our long journey. Parallel to the high road, andjoin, ing it, we had now one solely for the purpose of driving cattle upon. It is not, however, made with stones like the carriage road, but merely a space left for the cattle. Friday, Q9th. — This morning we arrived and breakfasted at the town of Brynn, which is also fortified, and, like Olmutz, really a beautiful city. The streets are perhaps too narrow, but the houses in general very handsome. I was amused with the signs over the German shops, such as a lion holding a bunch of candles, a bear playing on a French horn, and others equally ridiculous ; yet there are many to be seen in the same taste, in my own country. Instead of pavements, I observed piazzas in many of the streets of the German towns, which are infinitely more conve- nient, particularly in rainy weather. Our Rus- sian carriage now began to attract a good deal 23 i< JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. of attention, and the people smiled as we passed. We reached this day a comfortable inn on the road side, within a few miles of the famous field of Austerlitz. In the latter part of this day's journey we passed many extensive vineyards, the vines being planted in lines very near each other, and only allowed to run up perpendicular sticks about four feet high. Saturday, SOfh. — The absence of hedges or other fences to the fields, in that part of Europe through which we now passed, when taken in con- junction with its rich and highly cultivated sur- face, had the effect of giving the earth the ap- pearance of one universal garden. From some hills to the north of Vienna, and distant about fifteen miles, we had our first view of that ce- lebrated capital. Being situated on a plain, its appearance was not particularly striking from that quarter. Immediately before entering the city we crossed the Danube, which is by far the noblest river I have seen in Europe. It here divides itself into several branches, forming small islands, which arc very pretty. The bridges over the difterent branches are plain wooden ones, which answer common purposes very well, but are not such as one might expect in the Austrian capital. That Vienna contains much magnificence in its build- ings, appears evident at the first glance on en- VIENNA. 235 tering the city ; but the narrow streets, and want of" pavements or piazzas, are defects common to all the old cities of Europe, and particularly striking here. Many houses being six stories high, it appears in the distant perspective, as if people could shake hands, out of the windows of the opposite houses. We went to the hotel of the Archduke Charles, which is very handsome, and centrally situated. At this house we had three elegant rooms for eight florins a day. In the evening we attended the German opera-house, where we were highly entertained. The music and singing were admirable ; the house well pro- portioned, and the scenery, &c. good. The house was very full, and I could not help admiring the arrangement of the seats in the pit. Instead of admitting people until they are nearly crushed to death, (as is often the case in London,) the whole of the seats are divided according to the number of persons which they can conveniently hold, and the bottom of each is fixed up to the back, un- til opened and let down. All are numbered, and tickets of admission are given, together with a second ticket, on which is the number of the seat you are to occupy. We had some conversation with two English travellers who sat next to us in the theatre. They had just arrived from Ber- lin. ^236 JOURNEY FROxM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Swiday, October Isty 1820. — This morning we walked about the city for an hour or two, before breakfast, and visited the church of St. Stephen, which is one of the grandest specimens of gothic architecture I have ever seen. It is the principal church in Vienna. The present majestic pile w^as erected in the year I267. It is 342 French feet in length, by 222 in breadth, and 79 feet high, having a spire in the form of a pyramid, 434i feet above the surface of the earth. The exterior of the building is decorated with innu- merable statues, balustrades, and other orna- ments, all in the gothic style ; and it certainly has a most venerable appearance. The church of St. Stephen contains the remains of many illustrious personages, among whom are the Em- peror Frederick the Fourth, and Prince Eugene of Savoy ; and, according to ancient custom, the bowels of all the members of the reigning family who die, are deposited in a vault in this cathe- dral. The spire of St. Stephen, towering overall the others, was conspicuous from tlie first place, whence wc had a view of Vienna. AVhen the Frencli army, under Napoleon, bombarded the city in May 180'.), this noble edifice sutlercd a good deal, and required very considerable rci)airs. After viewing the church, we visited the Imperial I*alacc, which is also within the city. It is com^ VIENNA. 237 posed of an assemblage of buildings, erected at different periods, the fronts of some of which are handsome and highly adorned ; but, as a wliolef it is not deserving of much notice. From this we visited the palace of Duke Albert, which is adjoining the royal one, and a much more splen- did building. It not only has an elegant front, but the magnificence of its interior is said to surpass any thing in Viewna. After breakfast we went to pay our respects to Lord Stewart, the British ambassador at this court, but not having been so fortunate as to see his lordship, we re- turned to our hotel, and sent him a formal note, with our passports, which we had brought from the consul-general at Odessa, at the same time so- liciting others for our future progress. We then went in a very nice hired carriage, to visit the palace and gardens of Schoenbrunn, distant about two miles from the centre of the city, and where the emperor Napoleon established his head quar- ters on the 9th of May 1S09, prior to the capitula- tion of Vienna. We had no sooner alighted from the carriage than we observed a handsome coach with six greys, at the palace, and, on inquiry, we were told it was that of the young king of Rome, who was then walking in the gardens. Of course we were anxious to see him, and our conductor soon obtained information from one of the sentries th. — This morning we left an inn at Mindelheim, in the kingdom of Bavaria, and break- fasted at Wurzach, a small town in the kingdom of Wurtemberg. We were now about to dine at Stadel, in the Duchy of Baden, and we expected to dine on the following day in Switzerland, on the opposite side of the lake of Constance. Thus does the traveller find himself rolled along through these jictty kingdoms. In Bavaria we found the postillions drove better than the Austrians ; and the Wurtemberg yellow-jacketed boys brought us along tJiis afternoon in better style than either, until the Lake of Constance lay under us, though at some distance, and the snowy mountains of Switzerland formed the back ground to the south. If the Germans move slowly, I must say, in their fa- vour, that we had never been detained by want of ST A DEL. ^2.55 horses ; nor had any attempt been made to keep us at inns, under pretence of" there being no horses to bring us on. In this country the traveller is not required to produce any order for horses, as in Russia ; no sooner do you reach the post than tiie honest German asks whether you want horses, or propose to stop ; if you reply, as in the former pre- dicament, the horses are in harness, and you move off in a few minutes. The peasants now wore three-cornered cocked hats, resembling those used in our country in the beginning of the last century. How strange do things, very simple in themselves, appear to one who has not been in the habit of seeing them ! I here saw a woman driving two cows and a horse in a plough. It is as common in this country to see cows in draught, and women driving them, as to see men driving horses in ours. Su7iday, \5th. — We started at day-break this morning, and reached Mersburg, an inconsidera- ble town on the banks of the Lake of Constance, in a couple of hours. Here we embarked, and crossed that beautiful sheet of water to the town of Con- stance, distant about six miles. The lake is said to be about forty-five miles long, and twelve broad at the broadest part ; the country surrounding it, as far as we could see, was well wooded and culti- vated. It contains very extensive vineyards. There ^256 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. are a great many villages, churches, and chateaus, on its banks ; and the mountains of Switzerland, partially covered with snow, overlook the whole. We breakfasted at the town of Constance, and immediately afterwards crossed the Rhine by a bridge, within a few hundred yards of the point where it takes its rise from the lake -, and keeping nearly parallel to it all the day, we reached the far- famed falls of this river at Schaffhausen, in the af- ternoon. The Rhine is here not above two hundred yards broad. Its stream is confined within a deep rocky bed; the current is extremely" rapid, and the body of water very great. It here encounters several rocks in the middle of its channel, and soon after- wards falls about sixty feet perpendicular over a precipice. The eftect of this combination is very grand; the waters already constrained to keep with- in such narrow limits, rush with the utmost violence from rock to rock, until meeting with those in the centre, as if no longer capable of restraining their rage, the whole form into a white foaming tor- rent, dash with the rapidity of lightning down the steep, and, boiling in the basin below, send up a spray that forms an everlasting cloud over the frightful abyss. I understand there is a camera obscura so j)hiccd as to aflbrd a picture of the falls; but lliis wc did not .sec. I have seen many SCHAFFHAUSEN. 257 cascades which were pleasing objects ; but 1 could not look on the falls of the Rhine, without feeling an impression of awe, communicated by the con- templation of so sublime an exhibition of the wa- tery element. Monday, l6th. — Our route to-day lay parallel to the Rhine, and often close to it ; the scenery was very fine, but showers of rain and hazy wea- ther prevented our seeing any thing to advantage. It was now the time of the vintage, and the vil- lagers were occupied in collecting the grapes. Men, women, and children, carts, tubs, buckets, and cattle of all kinds, were in requisition. It was not a little amusing to mark the great variety of costumes in the different countries of Eu- rope. This morning, in passing through the town of Waldshut, in the Duchy of Baden, where it happened to be a market day, we observed many men dressed exactly in the costume of the reign of James I. of England ; broad-rimmed hats, with their shirts in plaits round the shoulders. As to the head-dresses of the women, they have an end- less variety. Yesterday ~ and to-day we crossed the Rhine repeatedly ; at one time in Baden, at another in Switzerland. The postilions of the latter country are very slow fellows indeed. I have purposely abstained from making any re- marks upon the religious paintings, images, crosses, s 258 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. &c. of the Roman Catholics, because 1 feel a ve- neration for the ordinances of the Christian reli- gion, even though tinctured, and in some measure degraded, by the superstition or conceits of men ; but, on going into an old church yesterday, I could not help smiling at an image of the Virgin Mary, dressed in a rich gown of sky-blue silk, laced round the waist, and adorned with a gaudy bunch of variegated ribbons, her hair being load- ed with powder and pomatum, and curled with a degree of elegance and taste befitting the splen- dour of her apparel, while a crown, apparently of gold, surmounted the whole. It is rather a remarkable circumstance, that in the vast extent of country which we had travers- ed, from the shores of the Persian Gulf to the west of the Rhine, with one exception at Ispahan, we had not crossed a single bridge having any pretensions to beauty. All had been clumsy wooden ones, such as would only be tolerated across an English ditch. Perhaps the poor reve- nues of the remote parts of Russia, through which we i)asscd, and their half-civilized condition, may be the cause of the Don, the Dnieper, and the Bog having no grand arches to adorn their banks ; and as to the Danube, the Rhine, and other rivers in the heart of Europe, their shores have been so often tlic scenes of contention BASLE. 259 among the continental states, that those inhabit- ing the adjacent country may have been deterred from going to great expense in constructing that to-day, wliich their neighbours or even themselves for safety, might find it expedient to demolish to- morrow. Being now at Basle, the last town in Switzer- land on our route, and having bid a final adieu to Germany, I may be allowed to offer a single re- mark, relative to the people, and such parts of their country as I have seen. From the little intercourse we had with the Germans, having been only a month within the States, my opinion cannot be considered as form- ed on very mature consideration j but I look upon them as an honest, steady, extremely methodical, and highly civilized people. They are a hand- some race, more particularly the women ; all are neat and clean in their persons ; and, with regard to their towns, villages, houses and inns, they can- not be surpassed, in point of elegance and cleanli- ness, by those of any nation on earth. When, on the road, you come to any thing like an abrupt descent, you invariably find a board on the road side, exhibiting a painting of the wheel of a carriage, with a chain locking it, to prevent its revolving ; as if it were necessary to remind a S2 260 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. man by any thing better than the view of the de- scent before him. Tuesday^ VJth. — We were obh'ged to wait until breakfast-time at Basle, in order to procure French money ; after which we started and entered the kingdom of France, without experiencing any an- noyance, either in reference to passports, custom- house officers, or any thing else ; all such matters were settled in the polite and agreeable manner, for which the nation has ever been noted. " Gay sprightly land of mirth and social ease, Pleab'd with thyself, whom all the world can please.'' But, alas ! what a change for the worse in the appearance of the towns and houses ; they were now in general dirty-looking places. The com- mon people did not look half so clean as the Ger- mans, and the vile, heavy, wooden shoes, used in this part of France, gave them a most clumsy, awk- ward appearance, in walking about. IVednesdmj, IS///. — The inn at which we dined and slept last night was tolerably comfortable ; but that where we breakfasted to-day, in the town of Lure, was a disagreeable j)lace in every respect. The French postilions yesterday and to-day had no kind of uniibrin j but they drove us along with much more spirit, than wc liad been accus- LURE. 1^61 tomed to since we left Russia. Horses in general are here small ; bullocks large ; houses often roofed with flat stones. Thursday, I9fh. — The floors of the inns appear- ed as if they were never washed; the rooms had no grates, and the cliimneys too often smoked ; yet, with all these disadvantages, we found Frenchmen admirable hands at making out a bill. The roads were extremely good, and much broader than those of Germany ; the postiHons were smart and willing ; but a very hilly country, and rain upon rain retarded our progress. The bridges over small rivers, &c. had been of stone since we entered France, and were well built. What a difference there is between a German and a Frenchman ! When I recollect the steady slow mode of the former, I cannot help smiling at the lively animated style of the latter. At times you may observe his animal spirits fermenting to such a degree, that he seems more than half in- clined to leap out of his skin. Friday, 20///. — We remarked a fine fertile coun- try around us, during this day's route, but not so beautiful as many parts of Germany. The houses of the peasantry had a dirty, mean, wretched ap- pearance, and the people did not seem a good- looking race, sharp and harsh features being very prevalent. S3 262 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. Saturday, QAst. — We saw ^France to great dis- advantage, as we had rainy disagreeable weather ever since we entered it ; but this circumstance had but Httle effect upon the general appearance of the towns, which seemed more mean and poor looking places, than I had before seen in a civi- lized country. My remark may not be applica- ble to other parts of the kingdom, but it is assured- ly so on this route, in which we passed through Bef- fort, Vesoul, Langres, Chaumont, Bar sur Aube, Troyes, Brie, Compte Robert, &c. The high roads in this country are of great breadth, lined with fine old trees, and made so straight that you can see the road before you, until the per- spective closes the trees in the distance. For the last hundred miles, in approaching the capital, the road is paved like a street, and, as it is seldom suf- ficiently covered with gravel, it makes a carriage shake most unpleasantly, as we experienced in a peculiar manner in our old Russian concern, which had no springs in front. In the afternoon of this day, we came in sight of Paris, but, in addition to the smoJxe which forms a cloud over all large cities, (althougli from the use of wood for fuel, it is less dense in Paris than in London) the sun had set, and we could only see a few of the most conspicuous spires and buildingiS as wc approach eil. In accom])1isliing the last stage into the French capital, as one pair of horses was not exactly suf- ficient, and three could not with safety be driven through the streets, we were obliged to take a couple of pairs. Our four greys were thus dashing along the Boulevards, when unfortunately one of the pins of a fore-wheel fell out, and off flew the wheel, which brought us up in a moment. Many people collected around, and one man was for- tunate enough to find the box, which fell off after the pin, so ihat we soon repaired our damage, and went to the hotel Mirabeau, Rue de la Paix, Place Vendome, where we were most comfortably set- tled in an elegant suite of apartments, consist- ing of a dining-room and two bed-rooms, very handsomely furnished for one Napoleon per diem. During my sojourn in Paris I spent my time most agreeably ; went daily to visit objects worthy of notice ; dined at the best restaurateurs, and visited the theatres and public places in the even- ings. To describe all I saw in this city and its vicinity, would require a volume ; but among other objects I may particularize the palaces of the Thu- illeries and the Louvre, Luxembourg, St. Cloud, and Versailles, the public gardens, the church of Notre Dame, the royal library, menagerie, and museum, the bridges over the Seine, the numer- ous theatres, the Pantheon, and many other pub- ii64' JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. lie buildings, all of which afforded me much gra- tification. I have seen handsome palaces in various kingdoms, but Versailles is more magnificent than any I have ever seen, either in Asia or Europe ; the building is very extensive and superb, the gar- dens beautiful ; and the fine sheets of water and fountains with statues, which decorate the gar- dens, render it indeed a residence fit for an illus- trious prince. When it is recollected that there was not a drop of water at Versailles, until brought by Louis XIV., the whole design and execution is infinitely creditable to the taste of that monarch, and the age in which he lived. The Palais Royal is an elegant square of handsome buildings, with piazzas in the interior faces, under which crowds of people assemble particularly in the evening ; the shops, cafes, restaurateurs, and other public places, are all bril- liantly lighted up, and the whole has a lively, gay appearance. Frenchmen are here to be seen in all their glory, sporting life away. Pleasure is the or- der of the day, and every thing that can tend to banish cimiii, and to gratify men of all tastes, may be procured in the Palais Royal. So fond are the French of it, that it is a common saying amongst them, that in the world there is " but 07ic l*;ilais Royal." The gambling houses arc much Ircfjucnted, and large stuns of money lost and won PARIS. ^^i"^ in them. I had an idea that the philosophy and na- tural cheerfulness of a Frenchman would enable him to bear up under any reverse of fortune, and to en- dure loss at play better than an Englishman ; but I have been given to understand that suicide, among desperate gamblers, is by no means unfre- quent in France. In the furnishing of the public rooms in Paris, the attention of all strangers is at- tracted by the profusion of elegant mirrors, with which they are adorned ; these certainly set oft" an indifferent room, or improve a superior one, more than any other articles of furniture that can be introduced. The view of Paris from the Quai Voltaire is very line. The palaces, bridges, and other pub- lic structures along the banks of the Seine are magnificent; yet Paris, with all its ornaments and attractions, when viewed as a city, falls far short of London. It is not so large or popu- lous by one-half, nor is it so rich even in pro- portion to its size. The streets are neither so wide, nor so clean, nor are they so well lighted up at night, as those of the rival metropolis. In ad- dition to these defects, the streets of Paris have no side pavement for foot passengers ; so that in the principal thoroughfares, a person walking some- times runs a risk of being rode over by carriages or horses. The palaces, gardens, picture-galleries. 26(i JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. museums, &c. of princes are generally formed at an immense expense to their subjects. It is, there- fore, a pleasing spectacle to see the spacious gal- leries of the Louvre and Luxembourg daily crowd- ed with people, many of whom are of the lower or- ders, whilst all of them are afforded the high gra- tification of inspecting, at their leisure, and with- out being taxed by rapacious door-keepers, one of the finest collections of antiques, statues, and paint- ings, to be found in the world. The same free admission is allowed to all the royal museums, gardens, libraries, &c. Thus, what kings, in ages past, extorted from their subjects, tends to render life more agreeable to endless generations of their descendants. We went to see various manufactures in this city and its environs. The porcelain manufactur- ed at Sevres struck us as exquisite of its kind. It is equal, in my opinion, if not superior, to tliat of Vienna. The beauty of the materials, the richness of the colouring, and the elegant forms of the ar- ticles, do the highest credit to the workmen. I need hardly observe that, at tliis time, we found many of our countrymen in Paris. Among others, we had the good fortune to meet witli a kind friend and relative, Sir Harry Niven Lums- dcn of Auchindoir, nait. who had for a short lime PARIS. 2(J7 resided in tliis city, and was thus able to be of con- siderable service to strangers, such as we were. In the number of the persons to whom we were introduced in the French metropolis, were two dis- tinguished travellers, the Baron Humboldt, whose works have afforded so much gratification to the literary world, and the Chevalier Jaubert, who went to Tartary for the Shawl Goats, which are now in France. Both are mild, unassuming, gen- tlemanlike men. The former speaks the English language correctly, and is very conversable. He is about to visit India for the purpose of exploring the Himmaleh mountains ; and, perhaps, there is not a man in existence better qualified to explore them. The Baron was learning the Persian lan- guage, and read to us two stories very accurately, (in Dr. Lumsden's opinion,) from one of Gladwin's works. His tutor, in this study, was a young Frenchman, who had been in the East, and under- stood the language well. Our Russian carriage having suffered consider- ably on its journey, and having now been brought into a country, where the peculiarities of its shape and construction procured us a greater share of the public attention than we were at all ambitious to obtain, we resolved to get quit of this vehicle, and sold it considerably under its real value. Satiirdaij, QSth. — Manifold as were the attrac- 268 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN, tions of Paris, we found it expedient this day to bid adieu to them. The amor patriw, like the magnetic power, was operating on our minds with increasing force, in proportion as we approached the object to which we pointed. It was long since observed by the great Roman orator, that " Om- iies omnium caritates patria una coniplexa est;'* and if any man's heart is so callous or so degrad- ed, as not to feel the influence of this noble senti- ment, let him only quit his country, as I did, for a long course of years, and a])proach it again through the toils and obstacles inseparable from a journey through half the nations on the face of the earth. It is thus that one learns how to appreci- ate the endearments of his native land. *' Such is the patriot's boast, where'er we roam, His first, best country, ever is at home." In leaving Paris we, for the first time in the course of our various peregrinations, stepped into a public coach or diligence, having been conduct- ed to the place from whence we were to set ofi' by our good friend Sir H. N. Lumsdeii. We dined at Amiens, and, as is usual, in this country, were entertained with music and sino-- o ing during dinner. An old navy ofliccr, and liis wife, with a young gentleman and I, occupied the gallery (cabriolet) of the coach. Poverty had ilri- CALAIS. 2G9 ven tlie former gentleman to live in France, and the latter was returning to England, after making a tour in Switzerland. Simdayy Q9th. — Rainy, disagreeable weather ; — at breakfast several ladies and gentlemen ap- peared, who were returning from the wonders of Paris. They appeared good folks, but not particularly genteel. The inns were now better than on the road between Basle and Paris. We changed horses, and passedthrough Boulogne about three in the afternoon. Here Napoleon assembled his grand army for the invasion of England, and we passed the high tower, which he constructed in or- der to witness their landinq; on our shores. The old naval gentleman informed me, that this town, Dieppe and Calais, were crowded with English, many of whom had run away from their hard-heart- ed creditors, on the other side of the water ; he added, that Calais and Boulogne were called the Fleet and King's Bench, from their being selected as pleasanter retreats than those receptacles of the unfortunate. We arrived at Calais at night, and found a good inn. There were many English in the coffee-room. We here procured English money, Monday, SOth. — We were informed this morning that during the squally weather yesterday, a packet was lost off Dover. On our way to embark, we 270 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. saw the pillar erected by the inhabitants of Calais, to commemorate the return of Louis the desired', and close to it the impression of the royal foot is cut upon a stone. We could not help laughing at the idea of a Frenchman, who said, *' It would look much better, were it turned the other way." We embarked, and soon had a view of the chalky cliffs of Dover. A fair wind carried us across in three hours. Immediately on landing, about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, I saw a gentleman stand- ing on the beach, with a lady under each arm, all of whom I had known in India. The party were. Captain Gall of his Majesty's 17th regi- ment of foot, his lady, and her friend Mrs. Keble. I went to the custom-house to get my bag- gage passed, and I must acknowledge that I be- lieve it to be one of the most villanous places I have entered, since I left England. Men and women are here crowded into a room, too small by half for the purpose ; every one shoving and push- ing, some making use of low oaths and abusive lan- guage to others, who are stronger, and thus get their baggage passed before that of their less powerful competitors. Not wisliing to enter the lists with such a rabble, I stood until a man had tlic civility to allow me to go in before him. A gentleman advised me to give the keys of my trunks to a porter^ who would pass my things for DOVER. 271 me at once ; and it had been well for me if I had followed this advice. But I thought honesty the best policy, and having brought some pieces of silk from Casham in Persia, I did not wish to have any paltry smuggling work, and therefore produced them, asking what was the duty to be paid. I was, however, considerably surprized and morti- fied, after bringing such trifles across a great part of Asia and Europe, for the purpose of presenting them to some of my fair relatives, on being told that they were contraband, and could not be al- lowed to pass on any account. This is the only instance I ever met with, in which there might be room for questioning the soundness of the maxim, which identifies honesty with expediency. Thus, the first salutation, I had, on landing in my own country, was any thing but courteous. Is it con- sistent with equity to take advantage of a stranger, and plunder him of his property ? I ought, at least, to have been allowed to export the things again. Such is the dictate or suggestion of reason, al- though I am aware that the law presumes every man coming into the kingdom, to be so far ac- quainted with its rules, as to know that he is en- titled to bring nothing with him, which is prohibit- ed by them. But this legal presumption must often lead to acts of palpable injustice against in- nocent individuals. I was utterly ignorant of the 27*2 JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO BRITAIN. regulation proliibiting the importation of Persian silks. From a candid and upright wish to avoid every thing like smuggling, I presented my pro- perty to the custom-house officers, and it was im- mediately declared to be forfeited, as if I had been practising the most sneaking and discreditable at- tempt to evade a law, with which I was acquaint- ed. Tuesday, S\st. — We left Dover in a coach soon after eleven in the forenoon, accompanied by two gentlemen and two ladies, and we dined at Ro- chester. After so long an absence, the sight of the hills and dales of Old England, though at the com- mencement of the gloomy month of November, af- forded me a degree of delight, far surpassing any thing I had experienced, either amid the pomp and luxuries of Asia, or the varieties and novelties of the European Continent. It was nearly midnight when we entered London by the Kentish road, which was brilliantly illuminated with gas, the effect of which was peculiarly striking to us, and seemed well to befit the splendour and opulence of the first city in the world. ITINERARY OF LIEUTENANT THOMAS LUMSDEN, ME RUT, IN INDIA, TO LONDON. Date. Names of Places. Distance. M. F. , BRITISH EMPIRE. 18 19. Merut Oct. 3. 4. Shajehanpoor . ... Gurmuctezur Ghaut, on the Ganges . 19 10 6. 9. 12. Ramghaut, on the Ganges Futty-Ghur . ... Cawnpoor . . • . KINGDOM OF OUDE 60 9Q 82 17. LucKNow, cross the Ganges BRITISH EMPIRE. 50 27. Allahabad .... 143 Nov. 7. Benares .... 129 14. Patna ..... 186 19. 23. Colgong .... Moorshedabad 160 162 28. Calcutta .... 192 1820. Mar. U. Bombay .... 2283 Date. Names of Places. Distance. M. F. 1820. ARABIA, April 6. Muskat .... KINGDOM OF PERSIA. 1281 22. Bushire .... 400 28. Ahmedie 22 30. Boorazgoon 18 4 May 1. Daulikee 13 6 2. Konar Tahkta 14 4 3. Kumaredge 9 4. Kauzeroon 20 4 5. Shahpoor 15 6. Kauzeroon 15 8. Kotul Peera Zun 15 9. Dustarjoon 12 10. Konah Zunyon 12 11. Shirauz 20 15. Zergoon 14 4 16. Ruins of Persepolis 19 4 18. Cultabad 6 19. Mayen 16 20. Oojan 16 21. Kooshkehzerd 30 22. Dehgurdoo 22 23. Yesdehkaust 25 24. Muxudbeggy 20 2.5. Komcsha 13 26. Mayar 15 27. Ispahan 26 ,^1. (juez 12 June ] . Mourchekourd 25 2. 1. So Kohrood Kauslioon 25 15 '26 i. Distance. Date. Names of Places. M. F. 1820. KINGDOM OF PERSIA. June 5, Seinsin 20 1 6. Passaungoon 21 7. Koom 16 8. Trasnai 32 9. Baug-e-Shaik 4 10. Daung 24 11. Arrahsung 32 12. Sugsabad 9 13. Pai-sin 36 14. Khoremdera 20 15. Saingaula 8 16. Sooltauneea 18 18. Zunjaun . . 24 19. Armaghana . . , 24 20. Aukhund . . 27 4 21. Meana 26 5 22. Turkmaunshahea 23 3 23. Karrachummun 14 24. Oojaun 28 25. Tabreez . 1 32 July 3. Sahlau 12 4-. Mahraund . • 30 5. Ghurghur 32 6. Nuckshywaun, cross the Araxes 34 8. Sheroor or Shared 36 10. Daivulloo , . 26 11. Erivan . . . 30 14. Ashterrek , , i 15 15. Abberhaun 20 EMPIRE OF RUSSIA 19. Humamloo . . • . 20 20. Caraclissia .... 15 24. Jelalooglu i 18 Names of Places. Distance. Date. M. F. 1820. EMPIRE OF RUSSIA. July 25. Semees ..... 20 26, Codie .... 30 27. Teflis .... 18 31. Ratiskari, cross the Kur, 17 Aug. 1. Dooshut .... 16 2. Annanoor .... 8 Passanoor .... 12 3. Kashaoor .... 12 Koby, cross the Terek . 12 4. Cassibeg, cross the Terek 10 5. Dariel, cross the Terek 8 6. Lars, cross the Terek . 6 Cartash .... 5 Balta .... 4 Vladi Caucass, cross the Terek 8 7. Elizabeth's Redoubt 14 8. Constantine's ditto 18 9. Mosdok Quarantine, cross the Terek 27 10. Mosdok , . . . 1 11. Paulodolsh .... 8 Ekaterinogradski 14 Prochlasnoi .... 12 Soldatskci .... 12 12. Paulowsk .... 12 Georgewesk .... 16 13. Alexandretta .... 8 Sabli .... 26 14. Alexandrow .... 18 Savernaia .... 12 Novo Scrjiewesk 10 Pokrowsky .... 23 15. Stawropol .... 20 Moskowskaia .... 21 Date. ^^nvw«A^i t\f Ty\nMAe> Distance. riaxaes ot rlaces. M. F. 1820. EMPIRE OF RUSSIA. Aug. 16. Donskaia .... 13 17. Besopasnaia Shregradnoi Hesteslauskai . Kopali Rascipnaia Postchanaia 14 17 15 14. 12 20 18. 19. Srednoi Egarlik Quarantine Srednoi Egarlik Michetinskaia 18 16 17 20. Kagelntiskaia Bataiskaia, cross the Don Chouper Rastov Choovec 18 17 12 20 14 21. Sirabeck ToGANROG 10 18 25. Karoviabrod Nosova Jalaczak 14 14 12 26. 27. Roskoy Schirokoy Marripol Kamiskovotoy Zakarofskoy Balmenki Rosbok Hastofskoy Arekoft ... Inchabrak 16 14 14 18 13 18 14 18 12 20 28. Maiacki Balchi .... Sodofli 24 10 18 Date. Distance. Names of Places. M. F. 1820. EMPIRE OF RUSSIA. Aug. 29. Rogaczik Sepalichy Kavro Kackofsky 10 20 20 22 30. Berelsoff, cross the Dnieper Friscinka Ingalez Kherson 3 20 10 U 31. Belazarki Kopanki Nikolaeft' 11 10 18 Sept. 1. Krasnoi Trakteer, cross the Bog Koblofka Definoffka 14 15 IS 2. Odessa . . 12 7. Dalnick 14 8. 9. Ghuderin Kuckurgan Teraspol Maloestiki Griegoriopol Dubassar Yegor] iskaia Vamskaia Lipiskaia 18 1.0 19 10 1() 10 11 14 14 10 Balta Pereima Oliviopol Obodofka 12 12 12 16 11. Kirmasofka Tulzin Bradaw, cross the Bog NemarofF Veronovitza 18 8 12 11 1.3 Date. Names of Places. Distance. M. F. 1820. EMPIRE OF RUSSIA. Sept. 12. Winnica, cross the Bog Il- Litin ls Diafoski 10 LetchiefF 14 Murgibock 10 13. Moisnifski ProsinrofF Zapadinski 10 12 14 14. Chepeliofka Kereiofika Gugun Kakaridska Kremintez-goro Gradik RadzwilofF 14 18 16 16 18 11 14 EMPIRE OF AUSTRIA. 15. Brody .... 5 17. Sokolowka 11 18. Busk Jariczow Lemberg 11 15 11 19. Janow Sklo Jaworow Krakow ee Zaleskavola 11 7 7 7 7 4 4- 4 4 20. Radimnotz Jaroslaw Pizecworsk Lancut 11 11 7 11 4 4 4 21. Rzeszow Sendischow Dembica . 7 11 11 4 Date. Names of Places. Distance. M. F. 1820. EMPIRE OF AUSTRIA. Sept. 21. Pilznow Tarnow 7 4- 11 22. Woynitz Bresko Bochnia Edow Wielicza 7 * 7 4 7 4 7 4 7 4 23. Cracow Mogilany Izdebuik 7 4 7 4 11 24. Pervalt 9 4. 25, VadovTtz 2 4 26. Keuty Bielitz Skotschau Teschen 11 7 4 7 4 11 27. Fridek Frieberg Neutitschein VVeisskirchen 7 4 7 4 11 11 28. Oberaujedz Olmutz Prosnitz Wischau 7 4 7 4 11 7 4 29. Poserziz Brunn I{i