WINTER ■ IN SOUTH AF~ Sir PREDh S'G K,' ■/< •>: '-•■ ■ -1 •' ^/^•r"'- ■ ■ ■ y '^'-'c^'-l THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ^i^. Vj- l^^f-^-^ci*^?-'' 1. ,v.-,-Sv.-*-^ -.7. ■ \ C7 f\, *- . ^ ^ f- * ^ ■■■' " - ." ;-. ."-^' .. ^ • f '.' -^ . >"v ■ * jr ^ * .*' T'' ./;- .'^ ■* .. ^^-' »i%'' .'?'' ^' ' _^ ^ *■ ^'.'-' ': » > * 2 * ]'/■ WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA BY SIR FREDERICK YOUNG, K.C.M.G. (Eeprinted by permission frovi the Proceedijufs of the Royal Colonial Institute, with large additions, Illustrations, and a Map.) LONDON : E. A. PET H ERIC K & CO. 33, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.G. 1890. [ALL EIGHTS RESERVED.] TO Her Royal Highness, Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lorne, This Volume, describing a recent tour, during which a large portion of Her Majesty's magnificent Dominions in South Africa were traversed, is, by gracious permission, dedicated with feelings of sincere respect. l'?14495 INTRODUCTION. The growth of the great Colonies of the British Empire is so phenomenal, and their development is so rapid, and remarkable, that if we are to possess a correct knowledge of their actual state, and condition, from year to year, their current history requires to he constantly re -written. The writer of a decade since, is, to-day, almost obsolete. He has only produced a current record of facts, and places, at the period he wrote. This is especially the case with South Africa. I have recently returned from a very inter- esting tour in that remarkable comitiy. My im- pressions were noted down, as they occurred, from day to day. A summary of my observations, viii. INTRODUCTION. and of the incidents, in connection with my journey, was the subject of a Paper I read at the opening meeting of the present Session of the Koyal Colonial Institute, on the 12th of November last. I wish it to be understood that the opinions expressed on that occasion were my own, and that the Institute as a body is in no way responsible for them. This Paper has formed the outline of the volume, which — with much new matter from my note book — I now offer to the public, in the belief, that the narrative of a traveller, simply seeking instruction, as well as amusement, from a few months tour, while traversing some 12,000 miles by sea, and 4,000 miles by land, through the wonderful country in which he lately roamed, might j)rove of some use, in awakening addi- tional interest on the part of the general public, to one of the most promising, and valuable portions of the Colonial Empire. INTR OD UC TION. ix. In this sjoirit, I offer my "Winter Tour in South Africa," to my countrymen, " at home and beyond the seas," in the hope that it may receive from them, a favourable reception. On the " Pohtical Situation," I have spoken strongly and frankly, I hope not too much so. The result of my personal observations has convinced me, that I have only correctly expressed the opinions, very widely entertained by large classes of Her Majesty's subjects in South Africa. I cannot conclude without acknowledging the aid 1 have derived from the Statistical infor- mation contained in the " Argus Annual," and it also affords me much pleasure to thank Mr. James R. Boose, the Librarian of the Eoyal Colonial Institute, for the assistance he has rendered me. Frederick Young. 5, Queensberry Place, S.W. \st Jan iiary , 1890. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Mt Wagon Government House, Capetown Parliament House, Capetown Johannesburg, Market Place . . Cemetery, Majuba Hill GOX-ERNMENT HoUSE, MaRITZBURO A Street in Maritzburg . . Town Hall, Durban . . Harbour Works, Durban . . Hex Kiver Pass PAGE. Frontispiece. . facing G 8 57 81 83 84 86 89 107 CONTENTS, Dedication .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. v. Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii. The Voyage. — Embark at Southampton — Amusements at Sea — Lisbon — Madeira — Teneriffe — St. Helena — Longwood — Arrival at Cape Town . . . . 1-4 Cape Town. — Queen's Birthday — Review of Troops — Regatta — Table Bay — Table Mountain — Hotels — House of Parliament — Observatory — South African Museum — Public Library — Botanic Gardens — Record Office — Places of Worship — Harbour Works and Breakwater — Graving Dock — Simon's Town — Kalk Bay — Constantia — Wynberg — Journey to Kimbeiiey .. .. .. .. 5-21 KiMBERLEY. — Address of Welcome from the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute — Diamond Industry — Bultfontein Mine — DeBeer's Mine — Compounds — United Companies — Central Kimberley Diamond Mine — Kimberley Hospital — Progress of Kimberley — Town Hall — Post Office — High Court — Public Library — Waterworks — En route for Bechuanaland — Wagon Travelling — Warren- ton — Drake's Farm . . . . . . . . . . 22-38 Bechuanaland. — Scenery- — Field for Settlement — Yryburg — Lochnagar Farm — Prospect of Gold Discovery. . 39-4(1 Klerksdorp. — Nooitgedacht Mine — Pan Washing — Klerksdorp Gold Estates Company — Future of Klerksdorp. . 47-49 PoTCHEFSTRooM. — Wagou Joumey — Presence of Gold-bearing Reefs — Vultures — Fort and Cemetery — Chevalier Forssman . . . . . . . . . . . . 50-52 Johannesrurg. — Difficulties of Travelling — Appearance of the Town — Gold — Knights — The Jumpers — Robin- son's — Langlaagte — Descent to the Mines — Market Square — Growth of Johanncsbui'g — Sanitary arrangements . . . . . . . . 53-59 CONTENTS Pretoria. — AVater Supply — The Volksraad — President Paul Kruger — High Court of Justice — Want of Eail- roads — Growing Prosperity — Post Office — New Government Buildings — Political and Social Life — Pretoria Paces . . . . . . . . 60-65 Waterborg. — Polonia — Hebron — Salt Pans — Kafirs — Appearance of the Country — Prospects of Gold — Scarcity of Game — Bush Fire — Narrow Escape — Transport Driver — Waterburg Sulphur Baths — Nylstroom Road — Return to Pretoria . . . . 66-78 Pretoria to Natal. — Coach to Johannesburg — Post Cart Travelling — Richmond — Heidelburg — Stander- ton — Newcastle — Eland's Laagte — Natal Rail- way — Coal Fields — Laing's Nek — Majuba Hill — Ingogo — Scenery of Natal . . . . . . . . 79-82 Maritzburg. — Public Buildings — House of Assembly — Statue of the Queen— British Troops 83-84 Durban. — Railway Journey — Town Hall— Municipal arrange- ments — Trade — Harbour Works — The " Berea " — Natal Central Sugar Company's Manufactory — Trappist Establishment at Marion Hill — Defences — Embark for Port Elizabeth . . . . 85-96 Port Elizabeth. — Trade — Town Hall — Public Library — Ostrich Feathers — The " Hill " — Botanical Garden — Hospital —Water Supply — Churches — Presentation of an address . . . . . . . . 97-101 Guahamstowx. — Railway Journey — Scenery — Botanical Gardens — Mountain Road — Museum — The Prison — Kafir School — Ostrich Farm at Heatherton Towers — Export of Feathers . . 102-105 Port Elizabeth to Cape Town.— Scenery -Hex River Pass- Arrival at Cape Town — Lecture at Young Men's Christian Society — Start for England— Arrival at Southampton . . . . . . . . . . IOC)- 108 Climate 109-112 The Native Question . . . . . . . . . . . . 113-116 Railways 117-122 Colonisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123-127 The Political Situation 128-148 Appendix : — I. Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South Africa," by Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial Institute 149-163 n. Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town 164-173 THE VOYAGE. On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. Spartayi for Cape Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry on so admirably the weekly com- munication between Eno^land and South Africa, are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their captains and crews are so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin accommodation so ample and luxurious, that it seems impossible for anyone, excepting a confirmed grumbler, to A 2 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. find any reasonable fault with any of their arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will select the particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any par- ticular choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line. A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give opportunity for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful and pleasant to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and turmoil of life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat monotonous, in. spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged, including cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I experienced a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to preside at concerts, THE VOYAGE. 3 lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon passengers, but also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the Bay of Biscay, a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the picturesque capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the memory of the scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which destroyed most of the town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants ; a short stay at the lovely island of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful scenery, to breathe its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land at its pretty town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings ; a passing peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention in Europe as an attractive health resort ; a few days' run of exhausting heat through the tropics ; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a drive to Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon 4 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. breathed his last — leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty name to all time — on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more of solitary sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales, porpoises, dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses ; a glance upward, night after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern Cross, so much belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance, after the extravagant encomiums lavished on it ; and at length, on the early morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town. CAPE TOWN. To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather. Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually striking to a traveller, fresh from the 6 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. sea, was, that it was the Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of " Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally en fete. The inhabitants thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay costumes among the motley crowd — English, Dutch, Germans and French, Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots — a tremendous gathering, in fact, of all nations, and '* all sorts and conditions of men." There was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which His Excellency the Administrator, General Smyth, surrounded by a brilliant staff, received the homage due to the British flag ; and, as her representative on this occasion, to Her Majesty's honoured name. The review was followed by a regatta in the afternoon. It was quite refreshing to a new arrival, like myself, to observe the enthusiastic evidences of loyal feeling everywhere exhibited J CAPE TOWN. 7 in the capital of the Colony to our Queen, the beloved and venerated head of the British Empire. Before commencing my long and interesting tour " up country," I spent a few most pleasant days at Cape Town. My impressions of it, and of its beautiful surroundings, could not fail to be most favourable. The panoramic view of its approach from Table Bay, at the foot of Table Mountain, is very fine. The town itself appeared to me much cleaner, and brighter than I expected to see it, although, it must be admitted, there is still considerable room for improvement in its sanitary arrangements, and also in the accommodation, and condition of its hotels, to make them as attractive as they ought to be. The best of them do not €ome at all up to our standard at home, nor to our English ideas of comfort and convenience. A great improvement in these respects, I am 8 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. satisfied, is not only necessary, but would pay well, and induce a far larger number of visitors to stay at Cape Town, and avail them- selves of its attractions of climate, and fine surroundings. While I was at Cape Town, I visited among other places, the House of Parliament, the Observatory, the South African Museum, the Public Library, the Botanic Gardens, &c. The House of Parliament, which was opened for public use in 1885, is a very handsome building, having a frontage of 264 feet, and is divided into a central portico, leading into the grand vestibule, the two debating chambers, and side pavilions. The portico, which is of massive dhnensions, is approached by a com- manding flight of granite steps, which runs round three sides of it. The pavilions are relieved by groups of pilasters with Corinthian capitals, and are surmounted by domes and CAPE TO WN. 9 ventilators. The whole of the ground floor up to the level of the main floor has been built of Paarl granite, which is obtained from the neighbouring district of that name. The upper part of the building is of red brick, relieved by pilasters and window dressing of Port- land cement, the eftect being very pleasing to the eye. The interior accommodation for the business of the two Legislative bodies is most complete, and arranged with a careful view to comfort and convenience. In addition to the Debating Chambers, which are sixty- seven feet in length by thirty-six feet in width, there is a lofty hall of stately appearance, with marble pillars, and tesselated pavement, which forms the central lobby, or grand vestibule. I might mention, that the debating chambers are only ten feet in length and width less than the British House of Commons. Adjoining the central lobby is the parliamentary library, a B lo A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. large apartment, with galleries above each other reaching to the full height of the building. The usual refreshment, luncheon, and smoking rooms have not been forgotten, in connection with the comfort of the members. The public are accommodated in roomy galleries, and ample provision has been made for ladies, distinguished visitors, and the press. The portrait of Her Majesty, and the Mace at the table reminds one forcibly of the fact that one is still in a portion of the British Empire. The total cost of the building, including furniture, was £220,000. I attended two or three debates in the House of Parliament, and was much impressed with the manner in which, in this superb and commodious legislative chamber, the discussions were carried on. There was a quiet dignity of debate, as well as business-like capacity and orderly tone, observed on both sides of the House, CAPE TOWN. II which might be copied with advantage, as it is in striking contrast to much of the jDractice, in the ParHament of Great Britain. It is certainly satisfactory to notice, that the modern manners and customs, in the popular branch of our own ancient national assembly, which so frequently fail in orthodox propriety, have not been imitated in the Cape Colony. At the Record Office attached to the House of Parliament, I went into the vaults, and inspected the early manuscripts of the Dutch, during their original occupation of the Cape of Good Hope. These are most deeply and historically interesting, and valuable. The minute accuracy, with which every incident is recorded is most remarkable. There are bays in these vaults, filled with records, which must be of priceless value to an historical student, and they are now in course of arrangement by the able librarian, Mr. H. C. V. 12 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. Leibbrandt, who is the author of a most inter- esting work entitled " Rambles through the Archives of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope."* At the South African Museum I found a valuable collection of beasts, birds, fishes, &c., not only from South Africa, but from various parts of the world. The collection has been enriched by valuable contributions from Mr, Selous, the distinguished African traveller, and sportsman, his donations consisting chiefly of big game, including two gigantic elands, (male and female), buffaloes, antelopes, &c. The series of birds comprises the large number of two thousand species. A visit of great interest to me was to the South African Public Library, which boasts of about 50,000 volumes, and embraces every branch of science and literature. It contains * The First Series was published in 1887. CAPE TOWN. 13 three distinct collections, viz., the Dessinian, the Grey, and the Porter. The first-named was bequeathed to the Colony in 1761 by Mr. Joachim Nicholas Von Dessin, and consists of books, manuscripts and paintings. The Porter collection took its name from the Hon. William Porter, and was purchased from the subscriptions raised for the purpose of procuring a life-size portrait of that gentleman, in recognition of his services to the Colony. As, however, Mr. Porter declined to sit for his portrait, the amount sub- scribed was appropriated to the purchase of standard works, to be known as the Porter Collection. By fiir the most valuable, however, is the Grey Collection, numbering about 5,000 volumes, and occupying a separate room. These were presented by Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape Colony from 1854 to 1859, and still an active member of the New Zealand House of Representatives. Here are many rare 14 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. manuscripts, mostly on vellum or parchment, some of them of the tenth century, in addition to a unique collection of works relating to South Africa generally. Among the places of worship in Cape Town the most important are St. George's Cathedral, which was built in 1830, and is of Grecian style of architecture, and accomodates about 1,200 persons ; and the Dutch Reformed Church, which possesses accomodation for 3,000 persons, and is not unappropriately named the Colonial Westminster Abbey. Beneath its floors lie buried eight Governors of the Colony, the last one being Ryk Tulbagh, who was buried in 1771. No account of Cape Town would be complete without a reference to the important Harbour Works, and Breakwater, which at once attract the attention of the visitor, and which have been in course of erection for several years CAPE TOWN. 15 past, from the designs of Sir John Coode. These works have been of the greatest importance in extending, and developing the commercial advantages of the port. The Graving Dock now named the Kobinson, after the late Governor, Sir Hercules Robinson, was formally opened during the year 1882, and it so happened that the first vessel to enter it was the Athenian, in which I returned to England, at the termination of my tour. The whole of the works connected with the building of the Docks and Breakwater reflect credit upon all who have in any way been engaged upon their construction. The amount expended on them up to the end of 1887 was £1,298,103. Before leaving Cape Town, at the invitation of the Naval Commander-in-Chief, Admiral Wells, I paid a visit to Simon's Town, the chief naval station of the colony. The railway i6 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. runs at present as far as Kalk Bay, which takes about an hour to get to from Cape Town. Kalk Bay is a pleasant seaside resort for the inhabitants of the colony, the air being regarded as particularly invigorating. The remaining distance of six miles to Simon's Town is performed in a Cape cart, which is a most comfortable vehicle on two wheels, drawn by two horses with a pole between them, and covered with a hood, as a protection from the weather. The scenery from the Kalk . Bay station to Simon's Town is very picturesque. A bold sea stretches out on one side of the road, and the mountain on the other. Amongst other things which attracted my attention at Simon's Town was the Dockyard, which em- bi-aces about a mile of the foreshore, and contains appliances for repairing modern war vessels, a repairing and victualling depot, and a patent slip, capable of lifting vessels of about CAPE TOWN. 17 900 tons displacement. I went with the Admiral, and a party of hidies to have luncheon on board the Steam Corvette Archer. Simon's Bay is very sheltered, excepting from the south-east, with good holding anchorage ground. It seems a quiet, secluded spot, well-adapted for a naval station in this part of the world, although I have heard that an opinion prevails that the fleet should be at Cape Town instead of Simon's Bay. The Raleigh is the flag-ship. I saw also some other vessels of the Boyal Navy at anchor in the bay. The fortifications which are now in progress for the protection of this important point in our chain of defences will, when completed, render the place prac- tically impregnable from sea attack. Some of the most beautiful coast scenery I have ever seen is to be found in that very lovely drive by Sea Point to Hout's Bay, and thence back to Cape Town by Constantia and c 1 8 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. Wynberg. This is a celebrated excursion, and well deserves the praises bestowed upon it. The road has been admirably constructed by convict labour. A very convenient short line of railway also brings within easy reach of the inhabitants of Cape Town the pretty villages of Mowbray, Rondebosch, Rosebank, Newlands, Wynberg, Constantia, &c., where, in charming villas and other residences, so many of the wealthier classes reside. At Constantia the principal wine farms are situated, the most noted being the Groot Constantia (the Government farm) and Hiofh Constantia. Constantia wine can only be produced on these farms. Another farm in this neighbourhood is " Witteboomen," which is particularly noted for its peaches, there being over one thousand trees on the farm, in addition to many other kinds of fruit. Another one, and probably the largest in the CAPE TOWN. 19 district, is named " Sillery." Here not many years ago the ground was a wilderness, but it has now attained a high state of perfection, there being at least 140,000 vines and hundreds of fruit trees of all kinds, under cultivation. At Cape Town I received the first proofs of the kind and lavish attentions which every- where in South Africa were subsequently bestowed upon me. From everyone, without exception — from His Excellency the Adminis- trator and Mrs. Smyth, and the members of his staff — from all the public men and high officials — from members of the Cape Government, and from the leaders of the Opposition, besides from innumerable private friends, Dutch and English alike, I received such cordial tokens of goodwill, that I can only express my deep sense of appreciation of their most genial and friendly hospitality. I bid adieu to Cape Town (which I was visiting for the first time 20 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. in niy life) with the conviction that I was truly in a land, not of strangers, but of real friends, who desired to do everything in their power to make my visit to South Africa pleasant and agreeable to me ; and this impression I carried with me ever afterwards at every place I visited during the whole of my tour. On Wednesday, May 29, I left Cape Town at 6.30 p.m. for Kimberley, passing Beaufort West, the centre of an extensive pastoral district, and De Aar, the railway junction from Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. This journey is a long one, of between 600 and 700 miles, and of some forty-two hours by railway. I travelled all through that night, and the whole of the next day, through the most remarkable kind of country I ever saw. Flat, and apparently as level, as a bowling- green (although we were continually rising from CAPE TOWN. 21 our starting-point at Cape Town to a height at Kimberley of about 3,800 feet above the sea), a sandy and dreary desert, with occasion- ally low, and barren hills in the far distance — not a tree to be seen, and scarcely any vestige of vegetation, excepting now and then, a few of the indigenous Mimosa shrubs, which, for hundreds of miles, grow fitfully on this desolate soil. This is the wonderful tract of country called the Great Karoo. Not a siofn of animal life is to be detected, at this period of the year. During the summer months it affords pasturage for large flocks of sheep. It is a vast interminable sea of lone land, over which the eye wanders unceasingly during the whole of the daylight hours. KIMBEHLEY. After another long night in tlie railway train, at noon on the second day, after leaving Cape Town, I reached the celebrated diamond town of Kimberley, the population of which consists of about 6,000 Europeans, with a native population estimated at about 10,000, chiefly concentrated in the mininof area. On my arrival at the railway station, I was met by the Mayor, and a deputation of the residents of the town. At a conversazione held later, and which was attended by over four hundred ladies and gentlemen, the follow- ing address was presented to me by the KIMBERLE Y. 23 Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute resident at Kimberley and Beaconsfield : — "Kimberley, June 1st, 1889. "To Sir Frederick Young, K.C.M.G. " A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute. "Dear Sir, — We, the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute, resident in the towns and mining centres of Kimberley, and Beaconsfield, South Africa, cordially welcome your arrival amongst us. " We are persuaded that your visit to this distant part of Her Majesty's Dominions has been undertaken, not merely for personal pleasure, but also on behalf of the great and growing need for the consolidation and expansion of colonial interests throughout the Empire. " We feel that your own career has been an important factor in the formation of a sound public opinion on this subject, and that it is 24 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. largely through your patient and far-seeing efforts, that the Royal Colonial Institute has attained its present proud position amongst the various influences, moulding, organising, and guiding the life and destinies of Her Majesty's Colonial Empire. " We believe the present time to be vitally important in the history of Her Majesty's Dominions in South Africa. The tide of con- federation, and corporate union is manifestly rising, the wave of extended British influence is flowing northwards, the various nationalities and states of this vast country are educating themselves by experience to see the folly and sterile weakness of isolation, and are learning to realise the inherent strength, and vitality of mutual co-operation, based on a self respect- ing, yet unselfish responsibility to South Africa as a whole. " We venture to suggest that this growing KIMBERLEY. 25 feeling for co-operation will prove a valuable element in the growth, and formation in the near future, of one Grand Confederation of all countries and peoples, owing allegiance to, or claiming corporate alliance with, Her Britannic Majesty's Empire. "We rejoice, as members of the Koyal Colonial Institute, that your personal merits and public career have been recognised by Her Majesty in the honour conferred upon you, which we trust you will enjoy for many years. " Coming amongst us as a Vice-President of our own Institute, your presence symbolises to us the aspiration, radiant in hope, and prophetic in promise, which animates all true a,nd loyal subjects of Her Majesty, and which is alone worthy of our past history, and present re- sponsibilities — the aspirations of a strong and united people for a vigorous, and progressive ' United Empire.' " 26 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. To anyone visiting", for the first time, this great centre of the diamond industry of South Africa the scene is inost extraordinary. The excitement and bustle, the wild whirl of vehicular traffic, the fearful dust, the ceaseless movement of men and women of all descriptions, and of every shade of complexion and colour, are positively bewildering. The thoughts of everybody appear to be centred in diamonds, and the prevailing talk and speech are accord- ingly. Being the recijDient, myself, of the most kind attention and genial and generous hospitality, my stay was most agreeable, and pleasant. Great facilities were afforded me for seeing everything connected with this wonderful industry, and satisfying myself, that there are no present signs of its being exhausted or " played out." Indubitable evidences were given me, that diamonds continue to be found in as large quantities as ever. They appeared to me to be " as plentiful as blackberries." KIMBERLE Y. 27 At the Bultfontein Mine I descended to the bottom of the open workings in one of the iron buckets, used for bringing up the " blue ground" to the surface. This is rather a perilous adventure. To go down by a wire rope, some five or six hundred feet perpendicular into the bowels of the earth with lightning rapidity, standing up in an open receptacle, the top of which does not approach your waist, oscillating like a pendulum, while you are holding on " like grim death " by your hands, is something more than a joke. It certainly ought not to be attempted by anyone who does not possess a cool head and tolerable nerve. Here I saw multitudes of natives employed, — as afterwards in the De Beer's, the Kimberley, and other diamond mines,^ — with pickaxes, shovels, and other tools, breaking down the gi'ound at the sides of the mine, j^^i'ched at 28 A WINTER TOUR tN SOUTH AFRICA. various spots, and many a giddy height. Diamond mining at Kimberley is altogether a very wonderful specimen of the development of a new industry. In this mine I had explained to me the various processes, by which diamonds are discovered in the rocky strata which is being constantly dug out of the enormous circular hole, constituting it. I also visited the celebrated De Beer's Mine. This vast mine, where some thousands of w^orkmen, white and coloured, are employed, is carried on much in the same way as the Bultfontein, as far as the different pro- cesses are concerned, of treating the material in which the diamonds are found. It is much richer, however, in " blue ground," and consequently far more valuable results are obtained from it. For instance, the average value of each truck load of stuff from the Bultfontein is said to be about 8s., while from KIMBERLEY. 29 the De Beer's it is 28s. or 30s. The latter mine is now worked underground, in the same way as copper and coal mines are worked in England. Excellent arrangements are made for the protection and well-being of the native workmen, especially by the introduction of "compounds" during the last year or two. These are vast enclosures, with high walls, where the natives compulsorily reside, after their daily work is done during the whole time they remain at work in the mine. This system has been attended with the most satisfactory results. I went over the De Beer's " comjDound," where I saw an immense number of natives, all appearing lively, cheerful, and happy. A large number were playing at cards (they are great gamblers), and others anmsing themselves in various ways. No intoxicatino- liquor is permitted to be sold within the "compounds." The weekly receipts for ginger 30 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. beer amount to a sum, which seems fabulous, averaging from £60 to £100 a week. The natives can purchase from the " compound " store every possible thing they want, from a tinpot to a blanket, from a suit of old clothes to a pannikin of mealies. Before the estab- lishment of the " compounds," when the natives had the free run of the town, and could obtain alcoholic liquor — on Saturday nights especially, after they had done their work and received their weekly wages — Kimberley was a perfect jDandemonium. An interesting visit was one to the central offices of the United Companies, where I saw the diamonds, as they are prepared ready for sale, lying on a counter in small assorted lots, on white paper. This is a most remark- able sight. The lots, varying from half-a- dozen to twenty, or thirty, or more diamonds, are spread out arranged according to their KIMBERLEY. 31 estimated value. I took up one, which I was told would probably fetch £1,000, and of which there were several similar ones in the different parcels on the counter. The manager showed me a paper of a sale to the buyers, a day or two before, of a parcel, which was calculated to realise <£14,189, and which actually was sold afterwards for iL'14,150 ; showing the surprising accuracy of the previous estimate on the part of the experts. Another day I went to the Central Kimberley Diamond Mine. After going over the mine, my party and myself all "assisted" at the counter in one of the large sheds in picking out diamonds from the heap of small stones just brought up and laid out from the day's washings. It is rather a fascinating occupation, turning over the heap with a little triangular piece of tin held in one hand, and continually "scraped" along the board. I found several 32 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. diamonds. We were told, after we had been working diligently for an hour or two — there were six of us — that the value of the diamonds we had found, and placed in the manager's box, was probably c£l,200. This seemed to us a good afternoon's work. The entire district of Kimberley seems to teem with diamonds, and yet there is no cessation in the demand for them, and they are still rising in price. Accidents are frequent at these mines, but excellent provision for meeting these misfor- tunes is made in the admirably conducted Kimberley Hospital (where there are no less than 360 beds for patients), which I visited during my stay. It is under the management of a very remarkable woman. Sister Henrietta, and reflects the greatest credit on everyone con- nected with its conduct, and support. The number of native cases treated at the Hospital during the year 1887 was 2,975, KIMBERLE V. 33 Kimberley has risen with immense speed, commencing from what is generally known as a " rush," to a large and prosperous centre of wealth, trade, and commerce. There, wdiere only a few years since, was to be found a collection of tents and small huts, I found a city with handsome buildings, churches, stores, institu- tions, and law courts, and, above all, a well ordered society. Some of the buildings which I might specially mention, are the Town Hall, the Post Office, the High Court, and the Public Library, which has been in existence about seven years, and is superintended with such excellent results and most gratifying- success by the Judge President. One notice- able fact connected with this Library is that the number of works of fiction annually taken out l)y the subscribers, exceeds, per head of the population, that of any Pul3lic Library in the United Kingdom. D 34 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. The Kimberley Waterworks, wlilcli I also visited, have proved a great boon to this part of the Colony. They were erected at a cost of _^400,000, the water supply being obtained from the Vaal Rivei-, seventeen miles away. After spending a most pleasant and agree- able week there, I left Kimberley at six o'clock on the morning of June 7, in a wagon drawn by eight horses, and accompanied by five friends, for Warrenton, en ivute for Bechuanaland and the Transvaal. This mode of travelling was quite a novelty to me. Al- though in this journey of altogether three weeks' duration, we occasionally put up at one or two hotels, at some of the towns, and sometimes at the ftirmhouses on our way, we frequently "camped out" on the open veldt, and, after finishing our evening meal of the rough-and-ready provisions we carried with us, supplemented hy the game we shot, we wrapjaed KIMBERLEY. 35 ourselves in our karosses, and slept for the night under the canopy of the starlit sky. I occupied the wagon, my more juvenile com- panions lying on the ground l^eneath it. This was my first experience of sleejiing in the open air in a wagon, and this, too, in the depth of a Soutli African winter. The town of Warrenton is situated on the banks of the Vaal Kiver, and is forty-three miles north of Kimberley. It is at present an unimportant town, but diamond diggings have been recently opened, and it is a good cattle district. It took its name from Sir Charles Warren. Soon after leaving Warrenton we crossed the Vaal River on a pontoon. Here a trooper of the Mounted Police joined us, who was said to be a very crack shot. He rode a charming and well-bred grey horse, and liad two admirably trained ])()inters \\\W\ liim. He oifei'ed me liis liorse to ride, he 36 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. taking my place in the wagon. I liad a most enjoyable morning's ride on one of the best little hacks I ever mounted, cantering over the veldt in the track of the wagon for about eight or ten miles — through a charming country with a superb view to- wards Beclmanaland, the veldt being more wooded and picturesque, than I had hitherto seen. We slept that night at Drake's Farm. Before starting the next morning, I had a long- conversation with Mr. Drake. He was born and brought up in London, and was in business with the firm of Moses & Son, of Cheapside, as a traveller. He came out here nine years ago with ^10 in his pocket, and travelled up from Port Elizabeth. Mr. Drake is evidently a man of great energy, and perseverance. He has a high opinion of the country, and a great idea of its future. His form and store K 1MB E RLE V. 37 are situated on the borders of Bechiianaland ; 1)11 1 he now wishes he had settled there, even in preference to where he is. He laughs at the idea of there- being no ^^'ater. He says there is plenty to be found at from seventeen to twenty-five feet below the surface. But he says it must l3e dug for. If properly irrigated, it is his opinion that thousands and thousands of tons of mealies might be grown. He is enthusiastic about the beauty of Beclmanaland, and spoke of having seen parts of it in which the charms of English scenery are to be found, and even greater attractions than in many gentlemen's parks in the Old Country. His opinion of the climate is very high. He told me he would on no account exchange his present location, with its dry, pure, and bracing air, so healthful, invigorating, and free, for the chill, and damj)s, and fogs of England. Mr. Drake was in England during 38 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. the year 1887 (the Jubilee year), but he was tjflad to sfet back aofain to his home on the border of Bechuanaland— a very comfortable one, as I can testify from my own personal experience. BECHUANALAND. I WAS very mucli struck with the appearance of the country on first entering Bechuanaland. The vast plain, over which I was then riding on horseback, was bounded by low, sloping- hills, covered wath brushwood and trees. It suggested to me forcibly the idea of a " land of promise," wanting only an intelligent and energetic people to secm^e its proper and successful development. In fact, as a field for settlement, I entirely concur witli the remarks of Mr. John Mac- kenzie, who has worked for so many years in 40 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. Bechuanaland, and who states in his recent work, entitled, " Austral Africa " — " I come now to give my own thoughts as to the capabilities of Bechuanaland as a field for colonisation. My mind reverts at once to thrifty, and laborious people wlio are battling for dear-life on some small holding ift England ^ or Scotland, and who can barely make ends meet. I do not think that any class of men, or men of any colour, endure such hardships in South Africa. There are portions of Bechuanaland Avhere, in my opinion, a body of some hundreds of agricultural emigrants would, like the Scottish settlers in Baviaan's river, some sixty years ago, take root from the first, and make for themselves homes. If they came in considerable numbers, and accompanied by a minister of religion, and possibly a schoolmaster, the children woidd not be losers Iw the change, while tlie cluncli BECHUANALAND. 41 and school-house would form that centre in South Africa, with which all are familiar in Scotland, and give the people from the first a feeling- of home. I would not suofsfest that such men should be merely agriculturists, but that like most farmers in South Africa they should follow both branches of farming. They would begin with some sheep, or angora goats, and a few cows. In the first instance they would have a freehold in the village, with right of pasturage, and they would also have their farm itself in the neisfhbourhood, the size of which would depend upon its locality and capabilities. But with the milk of his stock and the produce of his land in maize, millet and pumpkins, the farmer and his family would be, from the first, beyond the reach of want." For two days more we travelled through the same kind of country, a fine, bold, and E 42 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. very extensive plain (a promising district for cattle farming), with rolling and undulating hills in the distance, till we reached Vryburg, about a hundred and forty-five miles — in four days — from Kimberley. This is the capital of British Bechuanaland, and the head-quarters of Sir Sidney Shippard, the Administrator. The town itself contains about 500 inhabitants, chiefly Europeans. Here we spent four days. On one of these I was taken by Mr. M to visit his fine Bechuanaland farm of 6,000 morgen — 12,000 acres — which he has named " Lochnagar." We left Vryburg at 7.30 a.m., and drove about twelve miles in the direction of Kururaan, reaching Lochnagar Farm about 10 o'clock. While breakfast was preparing, Mr. M took me round the nearest part of this excellent and valuable farm. He has had it about three years, and he has already shown the wonderful capabilities for development BECHUANALAND. 43 which an enterprising projDrietor, possessed of some capital, can evolve from farms in Bechuanaland. He first took me into his fruit garden, which he has stocked with fruits of all descriptions. I was particularly struck with the healthy appearance of the wood (it was then the middle of winter) of the trees of all sorts of fruit. He has planted mulberry, apple, pear, apricot, peach, orange, citron, and several other fruits, all of which seem to be growing fast, and taking root vigorously in the soil. A large space is also devoted to a vineyard, as well as another to an orchard. The farm is well irrigated, there being an abundance of water on it, as I myself saw. After breakfast we walked round the cattle lair, where a large portion of his 200 head of cattle were collected. I was much impressed with the fine appearance of the 44 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. stock. Large-framed, stalwart oxen, and fat nillch cows were round me on every side during my inspection. I did not notice a single animal that was not in capital condition, and lit for the market — if market there could only be. I next went through a large enclosure, in which there were about forty horses, part of the eighty belonging to Mr. M . Here I saw several three-year- olds, and brood mares, and colts, all looking well and healthy, and containing several good, well-shaped, and promising specimens of young horseflesh. Mr. M has also a flock of one thousand sheep on his farm, but these I did not see, as they were out grazing on the veldt. We then walked to another portion of the farm, lying close to the capital house, built of stone by Mr. M , to a large *' pan," or lake, in which there were fish caught with a net. These are a sort of carp. BECHUANALA ND. 45 and a black-coloured fish of seven poiuids or eight pounds weight, said to be very good eating-. I saw in an outhouse a small collapsible boat, which is sometimes used on the lake. In summer, I am told, the farm looks very pretty, with its long stretches of bright green herbage, and wild flowers, and sunny aspect. Mr. M was born at Cape Town. He is of Dutch origin, and is a fine, stalwart- looking man with great energy of character and keen intelligence. He seems well fitted to be a pioneer farmer, to develop the too-long neglected resources of this fertile land. He is about forty-five years of age, and a bachelor. He first arrived on his farm on a Saturday night three years ago, and the next day commenced tree planting. His first trees were thus planted on a Sunday Morning. This was a good omen of the success he deserves, as I remai-ked to liim. 46 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. While I was at Vryburg- I was also taken by the proprietor of the Vryburg Hotel to see a farm about five miles off, where they were prospecting for gold. Mr. H informed me that the reef I saw, was the same descri|)tion of rock, I should see at Johannes- burg. The people in this neighl^ourhood are very sanguine ; I was told that this may prove a great discovery for Bechuanaland. KLEKKSDORP. Having received the same hospitable atten- tion, as elsewhere, at Viybiirg, our wagon party once more resumed its journey. Thirty miles l^jrouMit us to the south-western frontier of the Transvaal, from whence we travelled on, through the most dreary, flat, uninteresting, barren, treeless plain, for two or three days more, sleeping every night on the veldt, until we reached Klerksdorp, al)out 120 miles from Viyburg. The south-western part of the Transvaal is certainly exceedingly inferior in appearance to what I saw in Bechuanaland. 48 A WINTER TOUR TV SOUTH AFRICA. We remained at Klerksdorp three days. While there I visited one or two of the o-old mines of this promising district. At the Nooitgedacht Mine I saw the process performed of pan washing of the previously- crushed quartz. I also went to the stamping- house, where a machine for crushing has been erected of twenty stamps. I inspected the mine generally, and its various shafts already sunk. The work appeared to me to be well and systematically conducted. Before leaving this mine the great gold cake lump, weighing 1,370 ozs., which was being forwarded, the day I was there, to the Paris Exhibition, was put into my hands. It seemed a wonderfully big lump of the precious metal, which is so earnestly sought for by every race of civilised man. I also went over another mine, at present in the early stage of its development, but which KLERKSDORP. 49 struck me as being conducted, as far as the working management was concerned, on good, sound, 1)usiness principles — belonging to the Klerksdorp Gold Estates Company. My stay at Klerksdorp much impressed me with the idea of the future of this town of yesterday's growth. It is only fifteen months ago, (a little more than a year) that the Avhole of the town on the side of the stream where the Union Hotel is situated, was begun. The inhabitants already number some thousands ; and the indications I have seen in the mines, of great prospects of gold being found in large and payable quantities, are very strong. Klerksdorp may yet become a second Johannes- burg, whose remarkable and rapid development I was told, would astonish me. POTCHEFSTKOOM. After leaving Klerksdorp, we travelled the next day in our wagon thirty-two miles, halting for the night at Pot chefst room, which is not only one of the oldest, but one of the most important of the Transvaal districts. E-ecently the presence of gold-bearing reefs has been demonstrated in many parts of the division. On our way we passed, during the afternoon, a spot on the road where a flock of not less than fifty of those unclean birds, vultures, Avere hovering over and around the carcase of a recently dead bullock. These POTCHEFSTROOM. 51 birds are the scavengers of this part of the world ; they feed greedily on carrion, and rapidly pull a dead animal completely to pieces, leaving only the bones, which afterwards lie bleaching on the Veldt, to mark the spot where it has fallen in death — whether it be either horse, or mule, or bullock — left to die, worn out with fatigue by its unfeeling owners. Before leaving Potchefstroom, the next morn- ing, I paid a hasty visit to the Fort and Cemetery, rendered so tragically historical in connection with the Transvaal war. It was here that my lamented friend, the late Chevalier Forssman, was shut up with his family for ninety days, and lost during the siege, two of his children, a son and a daughter. I was much struck with the pic- turesque appearance of Potchefstroom. It has a population of about 2,000. Another long two days' journeying of about sixty-four miles, 5^ A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. through a prettier country than the wide wilderness of the Ijoundless and treeless plain, we had hitherto passed through in the Western part of the Transvaal, l)rought us to Johannes- burg. JOHANNESBURG. We had some little trouble in findino: our way into the town, as for the last two hours the daylig-ht failed, and we had to grope our way along at a snail's jDace in total darkness. This, in a country of such rough roads and deep and dangerous gulleys and water-courses, was a most intricate and difficult proceeding. Eventually, however, we reached our destination about nine o'clock at night. This "auriferous" town is indeed a mar- vellous place, lying on the crest of a hill at an elevation of 5,000 feet above the level of 54 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. the sea. Along its sides are spread out every variety of habitation, from the sub- stantial brick and stone structures, which are being erected Avith extraordinary rapidity, to the multitude of galvanised iron dwellings, and the still not unfrequent tents of the first, and last comers. It is indeed a wonder- ful and bewilderino- sicj-ht to view it from the opposite hill across the intervening valley. Scarcely more than two years have elapsed since this town of twenty-five thousand in- habitants commenced its miraculous existence. The excitement and bustle of tlie motley crowd of o-old seekers and o^old finders is tremendous, the whole of the live-long day. The incessant suljject of all conversation is gold, gold, gold. It is in all their thoughts, excepting, perhaps, a too liberal thought of drink. The peoj^le of Johannesburg think of gold ; they talk of gold ; they dream of gold. JOHANNESBURG. 55 I believe, if they could, they would eat and drink gold. But, demoralising as this is to a vast number of those, who are in the vortex of the daily doings of this remarkable place, the startling fact Is only too apparent to anyone who visits Johannesburg. It is to be hoped that the day will come when the legitimate pursuit of wealth will be followed in a less excitable, and a more calm and decorous manner, than at present regretably prevails. I spent a pleasant, as well as interesting, week at Johannesburg ; and, during my stay, visited several of the mines, among them Knight's, the Jumpers, liobinson's, Langlaagte, &c. At Robinson's, I had an opportunity of inspecting the wonderful battery just com- pleted, and in full working order, constructed on the most approved prlncii)les for gold crushing, with sixty head of stamps. It is a 56 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. marvellous specimen of mechanical contrivance for crushing the ore. Many parts of the machinery work automatically. I ascended the various floors, and had all the processes minutely and clearly described to me in a most courteous manner, by the superintendent of the battery. T afterwards went down into the mine, first to the 70-feet, and then again to the 150-feet levels. -In this way, I passed two hours wandering underground with a candle in my hand, and inspecting the gold- bearino- lodes of one of the richest mines in the Randt. This mine possesses magnificent lodes, and millions of tons of gold-producing quartz. There is a prospect of most profitable results in it for years to come. Altogether, from what I have seen of the various gold mines of Johannesburg, I am satisfied of the permanence of its gold fields. Of course they are not all of equal value ; but many, even JOHANNESBURG. 57 of the poorer mines, when they come to be worked more scientifically, and on proper business principles, will ultimately be found to pay fairly, although they may never be destined to yield such brilliant results, as some of those I have mentioned. The Market Square (of which an illustration is given) is the largest in South Africa, covering an area of 1,300 feet in length, and 300 feet In width. Some idea of the growth of Johannesburg may be gathered from the fact, that at the latter part of the year 1886 there was not a Post Office in existence, whilst the revenue of that department for tlie first quarter of 1887 was ;/;iG7, and at the end of 1888 it had risen to ^T,588. This extraordinary and I'apid growth has unfortunately produced the usual results, when an iiiiincnse population is suddenly planted on a limited area, without any j^^'oper sanitary G 5 8 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. arrangements being provided for their pro- tection. From its elevated situation and naturally pure and dry atmosphere, Johannes- buro- ought to be a very healthy town. That it notoriously is not so, and that the amount of sickness and death-rate from fever and other diseases is abnormal, must, un- doubtedly, be attributed to the great neglect and utter absence of an efficient system of drainao-e. I fear this state of things will continue ; and the certainty of serious increase, as the population continues to grow rapidly, is only too likely, until there is established some kind of municipal body, acting under Governmental authority, to adopt a thorough and complete system of sanitation. It is to be hoped that the Transvaal Government, which is having its treasury so rapidly filled from the pockets of the Britisli population, which is pour- ing into Johannesburg, as w^ell as into so many JO HA NNESB URG. 59 other towns in the Transvaal, will aw^ake in time to the importance of taking measures for thoroughly remedying this great and glaring evil, which is becoming such a scandal, as well as creating such widely spread and justifiable alarm among the British community in the Transvaal.* * Since my return to England 1 am glad to hear that a Sanitarj' Board is to be established at Johannesburg. PRETORIA. From Johannesburg- I pi-oceeded to Pretoria, a distance of about thlrt)^-five miles, through a fine, and bold, and sometimes pretty country. Some of the views on the way were extensive and ^picturesque. Pretoria itself is an ex- ceedingly pretty town, situated at the base of the surrounding hills. There is a continuous, and most abundant supply of watei- running through all the principal streets. Here, again, I was forcibly reminded of the absence of any municipal body — although Pretoria is the seat of Government — for dealing with the sanitary and other wants of the town. PRETORIA. 6 1 The dust, every day (as at Johannesburg), was Intolerable, although, with the abundance of water flowing unceasingly through the streets, it would be the easiest thing in the world to apply it, as much as could possibly be wanted, to water them, and keep the dust down. I remained for three weeks at Pretoria, While there I attended some meetings of the Volksraad, accompanied by a Dutch friend who kept me au fait of the proceedings by translating to me the speeches of the various members, on the subjects under dis- cussion. The debates are held in a very large, somewhat low-pitched apartment. About fifty members were present. The President of the Volksraad sat at a table on a platform, covered with green cloth. On one side of him, at the same table, sat Paul Kruger, the President of the Transvaal Kepublic. General 62 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. Joubert — who defeated the Eiig'hsh at Majuba Hill — sat at a separate table on the left of the chairman. I was also present, more than once, at the sittings of the High Court of Justice. The proceedings are conducted both in English and Dutch. By the courtesy of the Chief Justice, I was introduced hy him at a special inter- view, which lasted half-an-hour, to Paul Kruger, During our conversation, which was carried on by my speaking in English, translated into Dutch by the Chief Justice, I referred to the fact of my having been introduced to him in England some years ago. I went on to speak of my having come from England to South Africa to learn. That I had already learned much, and that I was much pleased with all I had seen, especially in the Transvaal, which seemed to me a country teeming with PRETORIA. 63 riches and great natural resources. That I was a great friend to railroads, and that I was never in a country which I thought required railroads so much as the Transvaal. I expressed a hope, therefore, to see the day when the country would be penetrated by them in every direction — east, and south, and west. The President smiled at my strongly expressed aspiration, but did not give me any other reply. Like every other town in the Transvaal, Pretoria shows signs of rapidly-growing pros- perity. Public buildings and private dwell- ing-houses are springing up in every direction. The Post Office, recently finished, is capa- cious and commodious ; and the new Govern- ment buildings for the accommodation of the Volksraad and the Courts of Justice, already commenced, but, as yet, only a few feet from the ground, and which cover a very large 64 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. •space, promise to be very tine and imposing. Wiiile at Pretoria I had ample opportunity for observing many of the j^revalent features of both political and social life, and especially of the condition of the large native pojDulation of the town. The Pretoria winter races took place during my stay there. The races were very good and well-conducted. There was a large and orderly crowd who appeared thoroughly to enjoy themselves, and their outing in that fine and suiniy climate. The Racecourse seemed a ofood one, thouo-h rather hard owing- to the dry weather. It is in a very pretty spot with picturesque surroundings. The Kafirs, ^vho are employed in great numbers, and who are earning high wages at their various occupations, are always to be seen, either working hard, or, after the hours of labour are over, amusing themselves PRETORIA. 65 cheerfully, chatting- at street corners, walking, gossiping, and talking, and gratifying themselves by giving vent to their very voluble tongues. Here also, as at Johannesburg, at Pot chefst room, and at Klerksdorp, I was forcibly struck with the large amount of English spoken, as well as of the number of English names over the various shops in the Transvaal towns. This is an interesting and important fact, which marks the tendency of the direction of future develop- ment. The, country must certainly become more and more anglicised, in spite of the political efforts made to oppose it. H WATERBUHG. I LEFT Pretoria on July the 17th in a wagon with eight horses, accompanied by two friends, for an excursion into the Waterburg district of the Transvaal. On this occasion we travelled about one hundred and fifty miles north of Pretoria in the course of a fortnight, returning about the same distance back again. We had a half- breed servant named Sole with us, who made himself generally useful during our journey. All this time we camped out day and night, sleeping always in the open veldt, in true gipsy fashion. We went by the Van der Vroom Poort, WATERBURG. 67 having- the MaaHeburg range of mountains on our left. Our first night was spent at a farm called " Polonia," belonging to a Kussian Missionary who has been for many years in the Transvaal. He unites the pursuits of spiritual instruction according to the tenets of the Greek Church, with farmincv on a larofe scale. On leaving' "Polonia" we passed the large and ^Dicturesque German Mission Station of " Hebron," which is situated in the midst of a rich and fertile valley. One night we outspanned at a spot called the " Salt Pans." While breakfast was being prepared the next morning, I walked to see those wonderful " Salt Pans," which were close to our camping ground. I de- scended by a steep path some six hundred or seven hundred feet to the bottom. It is an immense amphitheatre at the base of thickly wooded hills. It is larger in extent than the 68 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUIH AFRICA. vast open excavation formed by the " Kim- berley" Mine at Kimberley. The salt and soda brine is perpetually oosing- from the bottom, and is continually being scraped up Avith a sort of wooden scraper into heaps, where, after a time, by the action of the atmosphere, it becomes crystallised. I picked up and brought away with me several crystals of pure salt. This is another of the marvels of the Transvaal, a country which abounds in natural wealth of all kinds, fitted for the service of man. These Salt Pans are the property of the Transvaal Govermnent, which derives a considerable income from the tax imposed for taking away the salt, and soda, from them. Frequently during our journey we out- spanned just outside the Kafir kraals, and often entered into them ; one of my com- panions speaking the native, as well as the WATERBURG. 69 Dutch languages very fluently. We were always received by both Boers, and Kafirs, very kindly. Sometimes we were accompanied by a large number of Kafirs for days. I remember once, counting as many as forty Kafirs sitting round our camp fire, clothed and unclothed, and in every variety of costume, from the old British Artillery tunic to the equally ancient j)ea coat, the bright- coloured blue morning jacket, and the cloak of Jackall skins. On this occasion they remained all night with us, keeping up the fire and indulging in endless and cheerful talk among themselves. When I wrapped myself in my kaross and turned into the wagon at night I left them talking. When I awoke in the early morning I found them talking still. The country I saw in the Northern part of the Transvaal is very difi'erent, and far 70 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. more picturesque than it is in the South-West or South-East, which have a close resemblance to one another, in their bare, barren, treeless, and dreary character. I saw some parts which were really beautiful. One day we drove for several miles through quite lovely scenery. In passing along the road I was forcibly reminded of the road between Braemar and Mar Lodge, in Aberdeenshire, which it strongly resembles. The road runs on the side of the hill, sloping down to the rivulet at the bottom, exactly like the river Dee, and the Rooiburg, or red tinted, Mountain, exactly resembles the heather on the Scottish hills. It is altogether a charming spot, and a perfect picture of fine scenery. There is a large quantity of excellent and valuable timber in this district, as well as abundant evidence of mineral-bearing quartz. I believe that, some day, other Johannesburgs are destined WATERBURG. 71 to rise in the Northern part of the Transvaal, rivalHng, or perhaps even ecHpsino-, the treasures ah'eady discovered in the Randt. At the spot I have described, which is called Hartebeestepoort, not far from the banks of the Zand Kiver, where there is a good quantity of excellent and valuable timber, there was quite a romantic scene one night. We were discussing, as usual, our evening meal round our camp fire. It was starlight, but otherwise we were in total darkness. In addition to ourselves, there were nine Kafirs, making a party of a dozen altogether. It was an intensely interesting and remarkable scene to me, to find myself surrounded by these wild fellow^s in per- fectly friendly fashion, in the midst of the vast veldt, the silence and stillness only broken every now and then by the cry of the jackals liowliiig in tlie distance. 72 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. On leaving' here we travelled north towards Grouthoek, which is situated in the midst of the Rhynoster range of mountains, being- drawn by oxen, our horses following us, in order to give them rest, and so keep them fresher. I was disappointed at the small quantity of game we found on our journey. We occasionally shot a springbok, and I thus had an opportunity of making myself acquainted Avith the delicious flavour of the South African venison. But the days of the enor- mous herds which once abounded in these regions are gone. They have been either exterminated by the Boers, or been driven far northward, into the interior of Africa, together with the lions and elephants, over whose former habitation I was travelling. There are still a good many koodoos, and hartebeestes in this neighbourhood, but I was- WATERBURG. 72 not fortunate enoug-h to come across tlieni. Our commissariat was occasionally supplemented by a delicious bird, about the size of a pheasant, called the kooran, as well as by a few pheasants, partridges, and guinea fowls. One afternoon we were exposed to a thrilling adventure, which, but for the merciful inter- position of Providence, might have terminated in a most disastrous way. Suddenly, as we were driving along the road, through a dense wood, we discovered to the right of us the liMit of an immense bush fire. It was careering wildly along, fiercely burning, and sweeping everything before it. We saw it was coming swiftly towards the road we were travelling. We pulled up the horses, and taking out lucifer matches, jumped off the wagon, and tried to set alight to the grass, which was about five or six feet liigh, and very dry, close by us, in order to secure a I 74 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. clear ojDen space around us. But it was too late. The fierce fire, to the height of several feet, was rushing and crashing through the wood furiously towards us. Another moment, and we should have been within its terrible grasp, and wagon, horses, and ourselves infallibly burnt. It was in truth an awful crisis. We jumped back into the wagon and pushed frantically forward. Showers of sparks were already in the road. But, fortunately, the fire, which for a full half mile was burning behind us, was only a short distance in front of us, and, thank God, we happily escaped. One of the great advantages I have derived from my tour is, that I have had many opportunities of communicating personally with so many men of different races, and all classes — British, Dutch, and natives. During my present journey I had a most interesting conversation one morning with a WATERBURG. 75 transport driver, \\\\o was travelling by the northern part of the Transvaal, with three hundred lean cattle from the CajDe Colony into Bechuanaland. He gave me some very valuable and important information with regard to Colonial feeling in the country districts of the Cape Colony. He was Colonial born, and a fine, handsome man of about forty — a des- cendant of the Scotch farmers, who emigrated to the Cajae in 1820. His conversation impressed me much. He told me that the Colonists generally are loyal to the Queen to the backbone ; but not to the British Govern- ment, which they consider has not represented their feelings and opinions, and has sacrificed their interests. They dislike the Colonial Government, and are not favourable to responsible Government, as they see it. They would prefer being under tlie British Government direct, in spite of all its terrible 76 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. mistakes and mishaps, from which they have so cruelly suffered. My informant's opinion was, that the present policy of the administration in Bechuanaland is not conducive to encourage emigration, as it puts artificial impediments in the way of farmers with small means settling there,- which, he thought, they would do in crowds from the Colony, if they were allowed to do so on paying a quit rent, say of =£10 or £15 per annum, instead of the high terms of ^£40 de- manded at present. He had a very high opinion of Bechuanaland as a cattle-grazing country. The Waterburg warm sulphur l^aths — to which I j^aid a visit, taking a hot bath myself, which was certainly much too hot for me, but which was otherwise refreshing, after nearly" a fortnight's residence on the veldt, where there is a decided scarcity of water, both for drinking and washing purposes — are situated about seventy miles north of Pretoria. The}^ WATERBURG. 77 are extensively patronised by the Boers, and are said to be most efficacious In every variety of rheumatic and gouty complaints. They are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and might be made very attractive In the hands of anyone of enterprise, who w^ould construct a suitable establishment of baths, fit for patients who would be quite ready to pay handsomely for them, instead of the miserably primitive and wretched receptacles, called baths, into which p^ the highly excellent natural sulphur water is conveyed, and used by the motley crowd of invalids I saw there. From the Waterburo- warm baths our route o lay to the southward, across the Springbok Flats, to the Nylstroom road, along which, in two days more, we accomplished the intervening distance of about seventy miles l^ack to Pretoria, thus concluding a most Interesting and Instructive journey Into the northern part 78 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. of the Transvaal. During all this time, with the exception of the first night, I lived entirely in our wagon, sleeping in it every night, and having every meal (which consisted principally of the game we shot on the way), cooked at the various camp fires kindled on the veldt, and drinking nothing ])ut tea. I saw much, of course, of the Kafirs in their kraals, as well as of the Boers in their tents and wagons, in my trek through this wilderness. PRETORIA TO NATAL. After reaching- Pretoria, I stayed only two days there, engaged in bidding farewell to my numerous friends, and making preparations for my next long journey into Natal. I left Pretoria for Johannesburg by coach, on the 1st of August, and started from the latter town at five o'clock in the morning of the 3rd, in very cold weather and pitcli dark, l)y the post cart. This most uncomfortable vehicle is a kind of wagonette, with somewhat dilapidated canvas curtains, through which the wind whistled most unpleasantly, being utterly insufficient to keep out the cold. It is dr;nvn by eight 8o A WINTER TOUR 7JV SOUTH AFRICA. horses, and has cramped seats for eight or ten passengers. On this occasion there were seven others besides myself. In addition the mail bags, were crammed inconveniently under the seats. In this post cart I travelled for three days and two nights by way of Rich- mond, Heidelburg, Standerton, — where cattle rearing and horse breeding is successfully carried on, — and Newcastle, which will be remembered as havinof been the base of operations during the Boer war, and also as the place where the final treaty of Peace was drawn up and signed by the joint Commission, to Eland's Laagte, the present terminus of the Natal railway, thirteen miles beyond Lady- smith. At Eland's Laagte a very pi'omising coal field is being worked, from which great and important results are expected in the future. Soon after crossing the Transvaal border we passed the battle fields of Laing's < a 3 < > cc 111 I- kl s u o ^'^ ^ r?/ '^-^.*<.jo/fy PRETORIA TO NATAL. 8i Nek, Majuba Hill, and Ingogo, names indelibly associated with one of the saddest, as well as most humiliating, episodes of English modern military history, in connection with the Trans- vaal War of 1881. I gazed mournfully on Majuba Hill, that black spot of bitter memories to every Briton, and of natural exultation and pride to the Boers ; and on CoUey's grave, the unfortunate commander, whose unhappy and most unaccountable military blunder led to the lamentable and fatal defeat, which cost him his life, and resulted in the miserable fiasco — the retrocession of the Trans- vaal to the Boers. It is impossible to estimate the damage done to British influence, prestige, and power by the political consequences resulting from that disastrous day. The south-eastern part of the Transvaal is as bare, and treeless, and altogether as uninteresting and unattractive as the south K 82 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. western region, between Bechuanaland and Klerksdorp, through which I had travelled a few weeks previously. The instant, however, the border is crossed, and Natal is entered, the scene is at once changed, and the beauty of the surrounding country becomes apparent. Instead of the flat, wearisome desert of the Transvaal, undulating hills, clothed with ver- dure, and an extensive panorama of broad and fertile plains meets the eye. MARITZBURG. After leaving Lady smith, I proceeded to Maritzburg, the seat of Government of Natal. This picturesque town is in a charming- situation, the surrounding scenery being ex- tremely pretty. The town itself, is well laid out, the streets being wide, and in most cases edged with trees. Amongst its j^ublic buildings may be mentioned the new House of Assembly, of which Sir John Akerman is Speaker. It is a handsome edifice, well arranged, and economically constructed at a cost of i^20,000. A life-size statue of Her Majesty is to be erected in tlie front of the 84 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. building-, the pedestal of which is already in situ. While staying at Government House, and enjoying the kind hospitality of Sir Charles and Lady Mitchell, my ear was often g"laddened by the sound of the cavalry bugle and the roll of the drum, those striking- symbols of British sway, as the troops passed my window in their early morning rides. I am persuaded that these outward evidences of latent power, impress not only the minds of Englishmen, but of natives also, in this distant land. There cannot be a doubt of the in- fluence exercised by the British race over the aboriginal inhabitants of South Africa. That this should be used, at all times, with justice, tact, and discretion, "goes without saying;" but that it is a factor of great eflect on their minds is unquestionable. DURBAN. The railway journey from Maritzburg to Dur- ban, a distance of fifty-seven miles by road, is long- and rather tedious travelling on account of the slow pace. The line (a single one), which seems to have been very skilfully engineered, is necessarily constructed with sucli steep gradients that this seems inevitable. The long stoppages at stations might l)e certainly improved. Duihan is the prettiest as well as one of the cleanest, and most well-ordered towns I have seen in Soutli Africa. I was at once struck witli tlie Town Hall, a magnificent Iniilding, recently 86 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. erected, and generally stated to be, although not the largest, in some respects the hand- somest in South Africa. The total cost of construction was about £50,000, and it is worthy of note that in their selection of an architect, the Corporation of Durban did not have to go beyond their own town, an efficient man being found in Mr. P. M. Dudg-eon. The buildino- is of the Corinthian order of architecture, having a frontage of 206 feet, with a depth of 270 feet. It is prettily situated, and is a striking proof of what colonists can do when an occasion demanding skill, and perseverance, arises. There are several other fine building's in the to\vn. A strano-er cominef from the Transvaal is immediately impressed with the contrast between the careless indifference, which marks the absence of proper municipal arrangements in the towns of the South African Republic, l^^iPM^ DURBAN. 87 and the j^i'^o^^ ^^ their presence in an energetic British community. The Natahans certainly deserve the greatest credit for the way in which they carry on the business and manage the pubKc affairs of their pros- perous, and thriving town, which has a population of 17,000, of whom about 9,000 are Europeans. Recent commercial returns show that the trade of Natal, of which Durban, as the seaport town, is the centre, is rapidly increasing. The imports during the first three-quarters of the year 1888 were about two millions; and in 1889, during the same period, they had risen to three millions. The exports during 1888 were one million ; for the same period in 1889 they were one niillion and a quarter. Inq)orts have advanced 50 per cent., exports by 25 per cent. Customs revenue has advanced by 25 per cent., and if the 88 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. receipts be maintained, which is more than probable, the total income for the year from this source will reach £350,000. It is antici- pated that the combined trade of Natal for the year 1889 will not be far short of six millions sterling. The increase is a substantial one, and, what is more satisfactory, is that there appears to be every reasonable prospect that the trade will go on increasing by leaps and bounds. Affairs are in a generall}^ prosperous state, and a good sign is to be found in the fact that the emigration returns are also rapidly rising. The gigantic Harbour Works, commenced and now nearly successfully completed for the purpose of removing the bar, according to the plans both of Sir John Coode, and subsequently of his pupil, their late lamented engineer, Mr. Innes, and under the active personal superintendence of their distinguished townsman DURBAN. 89 the Chairman of the Harbour Board, com- prise an undertaking of which the citizens of Durban may well be proud. Nor is less credit due to them, and to their spirited leaders, for their enterprise in so rapidly pushing on their railway to the Transvaal border, in the confident expectation that they will be the first to bring the benefits of that most necessary modern mode of conveyance, both for passengers and goods, into the heart of the Transvaal Republic. The Harbour Works, the Railway, and the Durban Town Hall are all works of sufficient magnitude to give undoubted evidence of the public spirit and unconquerable energy of the people of Natal. The inhabitants of Durban are fortunate in ])ossessing picturescjue surroundings to their prettv town. The " Berea," one of its most attractive spots, is an elevated suburb where L 90 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. many of the principal merchants, and others have their residences. It commands a lovely prospect over the bay, and a beautiful view of the country inland. During my stay at Durban I paid visits to two of the most remarkable places in the neighbourhood. These were the Natal Central Sugar Company's manufactory at Mount Edgcumbe, and the famous Trappist establish- ment at Marionhill. The sugar manufactory is situated on a farm of some 8,000 acres, about 15 miles from Durban. A short railway ride brought me to it. I was courteously received by the manager, Monsieur Dumat. This gentleman, a Frenchman of great experience in the manufacture of sugar both in India and Mauritius, has been at Mount Edgcumbe for the last ten years. He is remarkable for the way in which he maintains order and control over all his numerous native workmen. In DURBAN. 9' the mill itself there are IGO men employed, everyone of whom is a Coolie. There is not a single white man on the premises, excepting two English clerks in the counting house. I was astonished at the perfect order which reigned in the mill, Avhere I spent some time. Everyone appeared to perform his allotted task with activity, cheerfulness, and untiring perse- verance. Monsieur Dumat told me he could never get the same steady work from white workmen. He seems to govern them all with j)erfect tact and kindness. Some of them have been with him for many years. There are about 900 other men, Kafirs and Coolies, employed on the farm. I was shown all the various processes of sugar manufacture, from the crushing of the cane, to the crystallising of the sugar. The first sorts are ready for sale in forty-eight hours ; other qualities require a week, and again even as much as six months 92 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. to perfect them. There is some wonderful machinery in the mill. The Trappist establishment at Marionhill is one which should be seen by everyone visiting- Natal. It is reached by rail from Durban in about an hour's ride to the Pine Town station. A drive from thence of about four miles brings a visitor to Marionhill, The monks, as is well known, are under a vow of strict silence. I was met by one of them at the station, who drove me in a waggonette to the Trappist farm. Here I was met by, and presented to, the Abbot. He is the real leader and director of this re- markable establishment. He devoted three hours to taking me over it, and showing me all the various industries and works which are carried on. About two hundred brothers are there at present, but more are expected shortly, and upwards of one hundred sisters, and about three hundred Kafirs. The latter are taught. DURBAN. 93 not only the ordinary branches of a practical education (of course including religion), but all sorts of handicraft. It is, emphatically, a school of technical education. Everything is manu- factured and made at Marionhill, from the sub- stantial bullock wagons, and the delicate spiders, to the baking of bread, the building of houses, stables, and cattle lairs, the printing of periodicals, 'and book-binding. Work is the great and leading feature of the Traj)pist creed. The motive power is religion. Its controlling- influence is here complete. I came away quite amazed at all I saw, as well as pleased at the attention I received from the Abbot. He is certainly a very re- markable man, of great natural gifts, and indomitable energy and powei'. He is sixty- five years of age. He was born on the shores of Lake Constance ; and before he took to studying for the lioman Catholic Church in a 94 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. German University, he was employed, as he told me, in early life in the care of cattle at his native home. The Trappist farm is beautifully situated, and within its area contains some really fine scenery. The Kafir women's part of the es- tablishment is distinct, and quite half a mile distant from the men's quarters. Women are taught to sew, and sing, to cut out and make dresses, to cook, clean, and go through all the usual routine of household work. The costume of the female Trappists, who, as well as the male, are highly educated, is scarlet serge, with white aprons. The men are clothed in brown serge. I was struck with the admirable arrangement of the stables, constructed for twenty horses, and of the cow and cattle sheds. All the engineering works also show evidences of the complete knowledge of science possessed by the DURBAN. 95 " brothers," and their energetic leader. I came away much interested, and wonderfully im- pressed with all I had seen in this remarkable institution. Up to the present time the defences of the Colony have been in a very l^ackward state but I was glad to find that a battery is in course of construction, commanding the entrance to the Bay, which is to be armed with guns of the latest pattern, one of them having recently arrived at Durban. Having passed ten very pleasant days at Durban and its neighbourhood, I embarked, on the 15th of Auofust, on board the coastinof steamer, Anglian, for Port Elizabeth. I had a terrible experience of the annoyance of the pre- sent mode of embarking passengers at Durban. After attempting to get over the Bar in a tre- mendous sea, we were obliged to put back into the Harbour thoroughly drenched. Once more 96 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. attempting It, we succeeded after another good wetting in getting alongside the Anglian, where we remained at anchor until the morning, waiting for the Cargo Boat we were obliged to leave behind, rolling and pitching all night. The eastern coast of South Africa Is subject to weather which is often very rough and stormy ; and T was, unluckily, destined to experience it. I certainly had a most dis- agreeable time In making this short voyage. After touching at East LoAdon, where ex- tensive harbour works are being constructed, I was landed at Port Elizabeth (after three days' knocking about at sea) on the 18th, being let down, like St. Paul, in a basket, from the deck of the Anglian to the tug, which took me to the pier In the open roadstead. Eight glad was I to get on terra Jiryna again. PORT ELIZABETH. Port Elizabeth (Algoa Bay) which is generally known as the " Liverpool " of South Africa, is the chief seaport of the Eastern Province, its trade being steadily increased by the development of the Transvaal Gold Fields, and the growth of the interior towns of the Cape Colony. It is a thriving business town. Its inhabitants, like those of Natal, are thoroughly energetic and active in the pursuit of their various mercantile avocations, and number about 12,000, a large proportion being Europeans. The town contains many fine buildings, the M 98 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. most conspicuous being the Town Hall and Public Library combined, which is a striking edifice, erected at a cost of ;^26,000. At- tached to it is the market, leading out of which is a splendid and capacious hall, 180 feet long by 90 feet broad. Here I saw a curious and unique scene. Long tables were extended, along its entire length, on which were arranged large heaps of ostrich feathers, carefully tied up, and sampled for sale. Port Elizabeth is the staple market for this industry. The value of the feathers I saw, I was told, was something fabulous. Port Elizabeth is a handsome town. In the upper part of it, called the Hill, there are many good private residences, and an excellent club house, at which I stayed, and enjoyed the kind hospitality, courteously ex- tended to me. A large, well kept, and conveniently laid. PORT ELIZABETH. 99 out botanical garden, which is much resorted to, is a great attraction to the town. There is also an excellent hospital at Port Elizabeth. I was much pleased with its appearance, and with the arrangements made for the comfort of the patients. The ventilation struck me as being particularly perfect. There is accom- modation for 100 patients, male and female. A well-arranged children's ward, attracts much attention, especially with the lady visitors. There is, in 'addition, a good water supply obtained from Van Staden's River, distant about twenty-seven miles from the town, at a cost of about ^150,000. There are several Churches, including Trinity Church, St. Augustine's Boman Catholic Cathedral, the Scottish Presbyterian Church, and a Congregational Church, upon which no less a sum than £7,7 lb was expended. Previously to leaving Port Elizabeth, the loo A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. following address was presented to me by the Fellows of the Koyal Colonial Institute resident there : — To kSir Frederick Young, K.C.M.G., A Vice-President of the Royal Colonial Institute. " Sir, " We, the undersigned Fellows ot the Royal Colonial Institute, take advantage of your presence amongst us to join in the ex- pression of hearty welcome to South Africa, which has greeted you in the several towns where you have met the Members of the Institute, with which you have been so long and honourably connected. "We aie mindful of the valuable services which you have so long rendered to our Institute, as Honorary Secretary, the indefa- tigable zeal ever displayed by you in for- warding the interests of the Colonies of Great Britain ; and that the success of the Institution, PORT ELIZABETH. loi over which you now preside, as one of the Vice-Presidents, is in no small degree due to your exertions. We venture to hope that your visit to South Africa has been an agreeable one, and that with renewed health you will return home to resume and continue the valuable services you have heretofore rendered, and that the E-oyal Colonial Insti- tute may continue to flourish under the auspices of the distinguished men who so ably guard its interests." GRAHAMSTOWN. While I was at Port Elizabeth I paid a flying visit to Grahamstown. A railway journey of rather over one hundred miles carried me there. The railway runs through the veldt, where wild elephants are still strictly preserved. There are said to be more than one hundred of these animals in the district. They occasionally do great damage to the line. During my stay I was hospitably entertained by the Bishop. I had already heard that Grahamstown was noted for its natural charms, and its appearance certainly did not disappoint me. Beautiful in situation, it merits the high praises which have been GRA HA MS TO WN. 1 03 bestowed upon it. It has also acquired a reputation for being the seat of learning, and the centre of the principal educational establishments of the Colony. The Bishop having kindly provided me with a carriage, I drove to see the various objects of interest in the neighbourhood. I first went to the Botanical Gardens, which are very striking. They contain a large collection of rare and valuable specimens of both arboriculture and horticulture. They are admirably kept, and are very ornamental. I next drove round the Mountain road. This is a beautiful drive of seven miles back into the town. The views of the surrounding country are superb. It is a priceless boon to the inhal)itants of Grahams- town to possess such an attractive and health- giving spot, for their recreation and enjoyment. I afterwards visited the Museum, where there is a most interesting and valuable collection I04 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. of animal, vegetable, and mineral curiosities, both ancient and modern. I also went over the Prison, and recorded in the visitors' book my favourable opinion of the arrangements made for the health and comfort of the prisoners. They appeared to me to be all that could reasonably be expected, or desired. I also went to see the Kafir school, carried on under the careful management of the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. M . I regretted that time did not permit of my visiting the celebrated Ostrich Farm of Mr. Arthur Douglass, at Heatherton Towers, about fifteen miles from Grahamstown. Mr. Douglass has the largest and most successful Ostrich Farm in the Colony, in addition to which he is the j)atentee of an eg^ hatching machine, or incubator, which is very much used in various parts of South Africa. The export of feathers has increased rapidly, and GRAHAMSTOWN. 105 has become ODe of the chief exports of the Colony, as whilst in 1868 the quantity ex- ported was valued at ;{;70,000, in 1887 it had reached the value of ^^365, 587. This is by no means the largest amount appearing under the head of exports during recent years, as in 1882 the value of feathers ex- ported was ^^1,093,989. It is estimated that during the past half-century the total weight of the feathers exported has been more than one thousand tons. The Cape Colony has, in fact, had a monopoly of the ostrich industry, but in 1884 several shipments of ostriches took place to South Australia, the Argentine Kepublic, and to California, and the Govern- ment of the Cape Colony, being alarmed, that the (Jolony was in danger of losing its lucrative monopoly, imposed an export tax of ;^100 on each ostrich, and ^^5 on each ostrich ^^^ exported. N PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN. On my return to Port Elizabeth, I spent another day or two there, and left on the evening of Monday, the 26th of August, by railway for Cape Town. This long journey of between eight hundred and nine hundred miles occupies nearly two days and two nipfhts. It was the last I took in South Africa. The country, generally speaking, is very much of the same kind as that north- ward, over the Karoo, and in the southern part of the Transvaal. High land, — in the neighbourhood of Nieupoort 5,050 feet above the sea level, — flat, bare, and treeless. It is certainly a very desolate-looking country to PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN. 107 travel over in winter. Nearing Cape Town, however, I ouirht not to omit to mention the Hex River Pass. The scenery here is certainly very grand, and is some of the best of its kind I have seen in South Africa. The railway, which winds through it by a succes- sion of zigzags from a great height, is another of the many triumphs of engineering skill which are to be found in all parts of the world. The fine views of the Pass, when I traversed it, were heightened by the tops of the mountains being tinged with a wreath of snow. From Hex Pviver the route to Cape Town lay through a rich and fertile valley, conveying ample proofs of the agricultural value and resources of this part of the Cape Colony. I arrived at Cape Town in the after- noon of the following Wednesday. Here I spent another pleasant week, seeing various friends. One of the last duties which devolved upon io8 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. me before leaving South Africa — at the urgent invitation of some of my friends — was to deHver an address at Cape Town on Imperial Federation. This I did at the hall of the Young Men's Christian Society, to a large and attentive audience.* On the 4th of September I left Cape Town in the s.s. Athenian; and, after a pleasant and raj)id voyage of eighteen days, touching only at Madeira on the way, I landed safely at Southampton on Sunday the 22nd. I have now given an account of the pro- minent features of my tour, during which, in the course of five months, I travelled about twelve thousand miles by sea, and four thousand by land. I proceed to touch as briefly as I can, on a few of the public questions, and other matters of interest which have arrested my attention while I was in South Africa. * See Appendix. CLIMATE. The climate of South Africa has ah^eady been so well, and exhaustively described, in the ad- mirable and interesting paper, read at a meeting of the Royal Colonial Institute, on the 13th November, 1888, by Dr. Symes Thomp- son, that it seems superfluous for anyone to attempt to add anything to what such an eminent professional authority has said on the subject. But I cannot help remarking that, from my own personal experience, I can fully corroborate all he lias said in its favour. The winter climate seems perfect. The atmosphere is so bright and clear, the air is so dry, and the no A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. sun is so agreeably warm in the day, altliough it is cold and frosty at night, that I think it must be as salubrious, as it has been to me most enjoyable. I found this the case everywhere, especially in the higher altitudes, and on the elevated veldt of the Transvaal. For myself, I never had an hour's illness during the whole winter I passed in South Africa ; and this I attribute entirely to the purity of the air, and the dryness of the climate. One thing it is necessary to be cautious about, and I have an impression that it is not sufficiently attended to, and is con- sequently frequently the cause of illness, and injury. There is always a sudden great variation of the temperature immediately the sun goes down. To a sensitive person this is instantly perceptible. In the afternoon every- one ought to be very careful in guarding against this change ; and should be provided CLIMA TE. Ill with an extra garment to put on at sunset, in order to avoid a dangerous chill. I strongly advise, also, temperance in the use of alcoholic beverages, which, in my opinion, are far too freely consumed. I have noticed too much drinkino- amono^ all classes. This cannot be necessary, or very conducive to the preservation of health, and the prolongation of life, in a climate like that of South Africa. It is to be earnestly hoped, that a good, and thoroughly efficient system of sanitary organisation may be speedily established in all the rapidly -growing towns throughout the country, especially in the Transvaal. Terrible neglect in this respect has been the cause of exceptional sickness, and great mortality in the past, for which the climate is not responsible. In order, too, to render the undoubted excel- lencies of the South African climate more attractive to invalids, who ought more largely 112 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. to avail themselves of its advantages, it would be an excellent thing, as well as undoubtedly a paying speculation, if better hotels, fitted up in all respects with all modern European im- provements, were established both at Cape Town, and at all the other principal towns up country, as well. THE NATIVE QUESTION. The native question is one of the most pro- minent and difficult ones to deal with in South Africa. The great preponderance of the native over the white races, and the different theories of treating them prevalent between the Eng- lish and Dutch, render it one of the most perplexing problems to solve. The wisest and most experienced people, with whom I have communicated on the subject are of opinion that the natives are so far behind us in civilisation that they must be regarded as mere children. This means, however, that they are not to be treated harshly, but, on the o 114 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. contrary, with the utmost fairness and justice, and that they must be under the guidance of a controlling and firmly governing hand. They respect authority, when they have confidence in its being exercised with impartiality. They have a great deal of natural shrewdness, and they must never be deceived. Alas ! I heard of frequent instances of this having been done, in times past, by those who have represented the British Government. Promises have been made to them which have been carelessly broken, and this means ruin to the prestige in their minds of the British name. From the wonderful and ever-increasing development which has taken place in the northern part of South Africa since the dis- covery of diamonds and gold, causing the employment of thousands upon thousands of native Kafirs at high wages, their social position is being materially changed. They are really THE NATIVE QUESTION. 115 becoming " masters of the situation." Their constant contact with white people is having the effect of introducinof among- them the germs of an incipient civilisation. The mode of treating them by the British and the Dutch is, undoubtedly, very different. A far harsher and more cruel method has been in vogue by the Dutch towards them, than would be tolerated by the British. But, from the cause to which I have alluded, the day has arrived when all this old system is sensibly changing ; and the Draconian code of the Boers, from the force of circumstances, is becoming modified every day. I have made it my business to observe carefully all the signs of the times, on this native question during my tour. I have seen the Kafirs in thousands workino- in the mines at Kimberley, and Klerksdorp, and Johannesburg ; I have observed them in multitudes employed in extensive building ii6 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. operations at Pretoria, and as labourers on the public works at Maritzburg and Durban, and at the other great shipping centres of Port Elizabeth and Cape Town ; I have noticed them in their capacity of servants in private houses, and I frankly confess that no evidence has been brought before me to indicate, that they are harshly or unkindly treated. On the contrary, it appeared to me that they are receiving good wages, and are everywhere well cared for and comfortable. They are naturally a lively and a happy race, and I have seen them as cheerful and light-hearted in the town, as in their kraals on the wild and open veldt. EAILWAYS. I HAVE already mentioned that, in my inter- view with the President, Paul Kruger, I told him that I was never in a country, which, in my opinion, required railways more than the Transvaal, and that I hoped to see the day when it would be penetrated by them in every direction. It is much to be resetted that there is so much jealous rivalry, inducing fierce contention, as to the precise direction, from the east, or south, or west, railroads should enter the Transvaal. I contend, that there is such a prospect of future enormous development in this wonderful centre of South Africa, that there is no need for ;dl this rivalry, but that there is room for many lines in iiS A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. which all may participate and prosper, in the fu- ture. Political considerations have undoubtedly complicated a question, which I should wish to regard solely from its commercial aspect. Personally, I am anxious to see the line over the ground which I have myself treked, pushed on as speedily as possible, from Kim- berley to Yryburg, and thence through British Bechuanaland to Mafeking, and so on, north- wards, into the Matabele country, with branches eastward into the Transvaal. But I should like, also, to see the contemplated line con- structed from Kimberley, through the Orange Free State, to Bloemfontein ; and the Delagoa Bay Bailway carried on to Pretoria, as well as the Natal line to Johannesburg ; and, in fact, any other, whether through Swaziland, or elsewhere, which commercial enterprise may hereafter project. They will all have the effect of opening up the Transvaal — the El Dorado of J^A/LIP'AYS. 119 South Africa — and meeting the demand for the transit of the enormous traffic, with which the old system of bullock wagons is utterly unable to grapple, and which, consequently, is so fearfully congested. The transport riders will have ample compensation, under the new system, in their increased employment in the conveyance of goods from the various stations to their actual destination. It was in this way the coach proprietors, without loss, and with great advantage to themselves, became the great and successful railway carriers, when stage coaches w^ere superseded by railways in England. Since I arrived in England, Sir Gordon Sprigg, in an important speech delivered at Kimberley, referred to the question of railway extension from that town in the following words : — " With the South Atlantic Ocean for our base, we started with our railway, and then we came up to Kimberley. I20 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. From this place we have only fifty or sixty miles to go over, and then we come to the border of this province, and of British Bechuanaland. Farther north, we get to that ill-defined sphere, called the sphere of influence, that extended the power of Britain in South Africa, as far as the Zambesi. . . . Now that we have our railway up to Kimberley, we have the British South African Company to take it in hand, and the object of the Govern- ment is to see that we have an extension line into these territories which will, in time to come, be recognised as portions of the Cape Colony. Gentlemen, I and my colleagues have come to the conclusion that we cannot better advance the best interests of South Africa than by joining hand- in-hand to advance British interests westward of the Transvaal State, and right up to the Zambesi. Well, then, that being so, I may say, that the first RAILWAYS. 121 object of the Company, in order to carry on their operations to the best purpose, is to con- struct a railway from Kimberley to Vryburg. The section from Kimberley to Warrenton has, of course, first to be undertaken, and from there on to Vryburg, as the second section. The Company are in possession of the requisite funds to carry out this great work ; and there is no reason why it should not be accomplished before many months are over. The Govern- ment of this country (Cape Colony) have come to the conclusion that it is desirable that this work should be carried out, and an arrange- ment has been made between the Government of this country and Mr. Rhodes as representing the British South African Company, whereby a railway starting from Kimberley up to Vryburg will be constructed by the British South African Company. Certain conditions have been entered into between the Company P 122 A WINTER TOUR IN SOL Til AFRICA. and the (xovernment of this Colony, under which the Government of the Colony will have the right to take over the railway at any time they think proper, on certain conditions to be entered into by one side or the other. This railway extension is to be immediately proceeded with. You may take it as a moral certainty that you will be able to travel by railway up to Warrenton, some time in the course of next year. The Government have come to the conclusion that it is in the interests of South Africa that this work shall be carried on ; that, in short, it would be highly in- judicious to place any obstacles in the way of an undertaking which is calculated to have so beneficial an eifect on the prospects of this part of Her Majesty's Empire." This Speech, coming from the Premier of the Cape Colony, requires no comment from me, beyond the expression of my satisfaction at its having been made. COLONISATION. Colonisation is a subject on which I wish to say a few words. The definition given by Adam Smith of the three elements of national wealth, " Land, Labom*, and Capital," cannot be too often repeated. How to blend them in proper proportions, is a problem, which has puzzled generations of statesmen, philosophers, and philanthropists. I have always been a warm advocate for colonisation. It appears to me to be a question of such supreme national importance, tliat I think it ought to l)e undertaken by the State. This, of course, means, that it is possible, as it is undoubtedly 124 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. indispensable, to get a Government to act wisely and well. In order to have a chance of its being successful, colonisation must be conducted on sound principles and practice. In South Africa I have seen millions of acres of fertile land — in Beclmanaland, in Natal, in the Eastern and Western provinces of the Cape Colony, to say nothing of the Transvaal — capable of supporting many thousands of our surplus population. But I have also satisfied myself, that it is no use whatever to transplant those, who are unfitted for it. Instead of a success, certain failure will be the result of an attempt so unwise. Colonial life is alone suitable for the enterprising, energetic, steady, and industrious men, and women, who are determined, with patience and courage, to overcome the difiiculties and trials, which they must certainly encounter on the road to ultimate success. South Africa is a land of COL ON IS A TION. 1 2 5 promise for them. It is by no means so for the feeble, the self-indulgent, the helplessly dependent class, of whom, unfortunately, we have so large a number in the over-populated Old Country. Cordial co-operation with the self-governing colonies is also absolutely indispensable to ensure success in any national system of colonisation. It is equally essential that a strict selection of the right sort of people should be made. According, too, to their positions in life, they must be provided with sufficient means to support them on their first arrival, while they are settling themselves, and their crops are growing, and they are acquiring knowledge, of the natural conditions of the new land, to which they have been transplanted. These are the principles necessary to be observed in any national system of colonisation. They apply to all the other British Colonies, 126 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. equally with South Africa, in order to prevent failure, and command success. While speaking of this subject, I should like to mention a suggestion for a system of special colonisation, which may well attract the serious attention of the Home Government, with the view of encouraging and promoting it. In the military garrisons, comprising the British troops, quartered in South Africa, there are a considerable number of steady, and well-conducted married men, non-commissioned officers and soldiers, who, having been stationed for some time in the midst of its genial climate, and pleasant surroundings, would, I feel satisfied, like, if sufficient inducement were offisred them, to make South Africa their per- manent home. If, therefore, a military colony were established at the expense of the Home Government in a well and wisely -selected spot and under proper and judicious arrangement, COLONISATION. 127 it would probably be, not only a great boon to a number of deserving British subjects, but would be attended with success, and be a politic, and interesting factor in the nrt of colonisation. I earnestly commend the idea to those, who would have to deal with it, as an experiment, eminently worthy of their attention and support. THE POLITICAL SITUATION. The political situation of South Africa is the last subject to which I shall refer. I am quite aware that this is a very difficult and delicate question to touch upon, but it would be impossible for anyone like myself, to whom it has presented itself so prominently during my tour, to avoid some allusion to it. I shall endeavour to state my impressions impartially and fairly. Before I went to South Africa I had formed a general opinion on this vitally important and very critical subject. My previous views have been most thoroughly confirmed, and painfully THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 129 accentuated by all I have seen, and heard, and gathered, on the spot. The mournful mis- manaofement of South African affairs durlho- the last twenty-five years, and most especially during the last decade, has been truly lament- able, and cannot fail to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton, and true-hearted patriot. The absence of continuous, wise, and states- manlike policy, which has for the most part marked the tone of those, who have had the Imperial guidance and control of South African affairs in the past, has had the effect of sowing the seeds of enmity to the Government of the Mother Country, Avhich it will require all the wisdom, and tact, and conciliatory sympathy possible to be displayed in the future, in dealing with this magnificent part of the Empire, to allay. It will demand the greatest skill to prevent the permanent alienation, and Q I30 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. estrangement of South Africa from Great Britain. This has all been brought about by our un- accountably careless and culpable want of accurate knowledge at home, of the actual situa- tion. We lost a splendid chance of con- solidating South Africa in a homogeneous union under the British crown. Our insular in difference, our ignorance, the fierce animosity of our party political prejudices, made us neglect the opportunity. It has had the effect of creating the sorest feelings against us, on the part of the large English population, spread over the land, which is uncontaminated and uninfluenced by the party spirit of local colonial politicians. It is melancholy, and most deplorable to observe the indications of this feeling, which are constantly apparent. The old love for the British flag is still widely cherished ; but it was impossible for me to THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 131 shut my eyes to the evidence so continually brought before me, that the British Govern- ment is neither loved nor respected. No con- fidence whatever is felt in it — and no wonder ! Everywhere there are proofs of how all have been allowed to suffer and smart under it. Either from ignorance, or carelessness, or indifierence — probably from all combined — and perhaps even unconsciously, but at the same time as surely, we have deceived the Natives, the Boers, and the Colonists. This is only the natural consequence of the feeble, vacillating, uncertain course, which is followed, when the State machine is guided without compass, and where there is no firmness, nor courage at the national helm. What we have to do, however, now, is to advocate union and co-operation be- tween the two dominant races — the British and the Dutch — and to do all we can to promote harmony and goodwill between them. True, 132 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. their mental character, and natural instincts are different. Our own race is essentially energetic and progressive ; while theirs is slow, unemo- tional, and phlegmatic. But if sympathy, and tact, and cordial good temper, are invariably practised in our intercourse wath them, I am persuaded it will ultimately have the effect of promoting co-operation in securing their mutual interests. This, I trust, will ultimately neutralise the effect of the fatal course of past political action, which unnecessarily developed race jealousies, and stimulated national friction and animosity ; and will bring about in the future, a blending of the Dutch in friendly union and fellowship) with the British, such as has been undreamed of in the past. Among many expressions of opinion on the subject of the political situation made to me while I was in South Africa, I received the following communic:ition from a gentleman of THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 133 prominent position in one of the principal towns of the Cape Colony. It appears to me of such importance that I avail myself of this oppor- tunity of giving publicity to it. " The fact of your arrival at very short notice, combined with the fact that there are only a few Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute resident here, will probably prevent the presentation of any formal address of welcome to you. " Nevertheless, to a section of the community which is animated by patriotic jealousy for the rights and dignity of the Crown throughout South Africa, your visit is regarded with feelings of genuine satisfaction, and our hopes are encouraged, that your ^visit may result in some good to the cause, which we have at heart. " You are doubtless acquainted well enough with the principal events of great national 134 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. moment of recent years in South Africa. From whatever point of view pohticians may hke to regard the end of the Transvaal war, any resident in this countiy can be only too well aware of the fact that one result of that terrible exjDerience has been, a material weaken- ing of respect for English people, and for the rights of the Crown throughout the Cape Colony. " Since the period referred to, a very powerful Dutch-Africander combination has come into existence, and there can be no doubt but that one object of such a body, is the severance of all but nominal ties between the Cape, and Great Britain. " However visionary such hopes as these must for a long series of years remain, the fact of their existence, and of their being in a variety of ways advanced from time to time, has a very marked influence upon all classes of people in this country. THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 135 " For Instance, the youth of the country are influenced to hope for a thne, when they shall be members of an independent State ; and while on the one hand they may not see any im- mediate prospect of a change in such a direction being effected, nevertheless they lessen their interest in, and their respect for, the Crown of England and its attributes, and thus grow up comparatively devoid of any sound patriotism, even to their native country ; and, above all, without any touch of that enthusiasm, which is ever engendered by high national traditions. " That some momentous changes are likely to occur in South Africa, and that possibly, before very long, all are agreed. The question onl}^ remains in what direction will these chancfes tend ? — towards some Foreign Continental Power, towards a Confederation with the ex- isting Dutch llepublics, or in the dii'ection 136 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. of a strengthenino- of tlie union with Eng- land ? "It is sometimes surmised, and this not merely by extreme men, but by quiet and experienced observers of events in this country, that the large population, mainly British, which has been attracted to the Gold Fields of the Transvaal, is unlikely to endure much longer the systematic misgovernment and suppression, to which they are subjected by men of avowedly anti-English sympathies, and pledged to a policy directed to check British progress by all means. " What form the suggested revolt in the Transvaal may take is not likely to be re- vealed, until some overt step towards its execution has been taken. We would all desire that the end in view should be secured by peaceful means, and that the Transvaal should become a part and parcel of British territory. THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 137 " To effect a revival of loyalty to England in the Cape Colony, and to influence the destinies of other States in the direction of union with England, should surely be the hope and endeavour of all true Englishmen, v^hether in this Colony, or elsewhere. " And the end in view is not an easy one to attain in a country, where the majority of Europeans consider that they, or their com- patriots, inflicted disgrace, and a permanent loss of influence upon the Imperial Troops on the one hand, and the Imperial British Govern- ment on the other. " The application of any remedy seems to lie more with the Sovereign personally, or Her Majesty's inmiediate advisers in England, than with any Governor, and High Commissioner, or Cabinet of Cape Ministers. " For qua Governor, the Queen's Represen- tative at the Cape, is necessarily checked, or R 138 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. controlled l)y the Ministry of the day, his Constitutional advisers, and the presence in the Cape Parliament of a dominant force of the essentially non-English, or Africander 23arty, must necessarily also have a very material influence upon Ministers, who dejoend upon a majority of votes for the retention of their ofiice. " In short, the problem in the Cape Colony is one, which happily does not exist in either of the other great dependencies of the Crown; it is altogether peculiar to South Africa, of which, after all, England acquired possession by conquest, and, having acquired it, has never completely won the adhesion of the Dutch inhabitants, who resent such acts of Govern- ment as the abolition of slavery, the intro- duction of the English principle of equality before the law, and, above all, an unsettled vacillating policy, which last has the worst THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 139 possible effect upon all the nationalities, European, as well as native, throughout South Africa. " The present attitude of even British South Africa, is one, not of expectancy, but of slight hope, mingled with distrust, and after such conspicuous events as the dismemberment of Zululand, the retrocession of the Transvaal, in addition to the ineffective efforts towards con- federation, he would be a bold man who, as an Englishman, would dare assert either that his country protected her cliildren, or her dependent races, or that there is any settled British jjolicy in the very Continent, where vigour, firmness, and consistency, combined with mere justice, seem to be absolutely essential. " South Africa has yet to l^e won over to England, or, in other words, confidence has to be restored. The effort is siu'ely worth making, and anything like a determined effort on the I40 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. part of the Sovereign, and Her Majesty's im- mediate advisers would find a most vigorous and cordial response. " The idea of confederation seems to be quite dependent upon such preliminaries, as mutual confidence, and a measure of common necessity, in order to such a question being seriously entertained. "The Colonial Conference of two years ago, seems however to have paved the way for effective development in the direction of con- federation. " For it must be remembered, that the some- what complex British constitution is not the creation of any one Monarch, or Parliament. It has grown to its present dimensions little by little, influenced always by the necessities of particular cases. The House of Peers has ever been summoned by Avrit, and early precedents indicate, that the Sovereign was not always THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 141 limited to a particular class of Barons, who alone could be invited to the deliberations of the nation. " Althouo'h it is not admitted, it is never- theless the fact, that, at the present time, all who are most anxiously desirous of seeing a way to establish a means of drawing together, in Council, the Colonies and the Mother Country, are quite disagreed, as to what is the best means to this end. "A formal confederation is desired, but all are agreed upon the diiEculties which, for the present, at any rate, stand in the way of com- pleting an exactly defined treaty, or definition, to confederate as between the Mother Country, and the Colonies. " Perhaps a means to this much -desired end may be discovei'ed, by way of less formal, but almost equally effective, courses of policy as regards Colonial possessions. 142 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. " Every one feels the difficulty In the way of summoning Colonial Representatives to either the House of Lords or the House of Commons, for, while special provision would be required to Increase the numbers of the House of Com- mons, there are apparent and real obstacles in the way of inviting Colonial Representatives to sit In the House of Lords, either as ordinary, or as Life Peers. " It does not seem too much to hope that, before long, the Crown, may desire to see assembled in London, during some period of the annual session of the Imperial Parliament a Council of Colonial Delegates, meeting In a place to be assigned to them, who will have no voice In other than Colonial Policy, just as now, the House of Lords has no voice in the originating of Money Bills, who will be free to discuss any measure affecting Colonial Policy In general, or the affiiirs of any Colony, in particular, who THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 143 will be entitled to forward their conclusions, requests, or opinions to Her Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, and who will constitute a most effective means for as- certaining the current of opinion in any par- ticular Colony for the time being. " The Houses of Convocation might be referred to as an example of an extra Parliamentary Body of recognised position in the deliberations of the State. " And, to revert to South Africa, the sym- pathies, and probably loyal adhesion of all the intelligent classes of every nationality, would be elicited by nothing more than by the express personal interest of the Sovereign, and Her family in the Cape Colony. The occasion of the visit of Prince Alfred, when a mere child, elicited unbounded demonstrations of enthusiastic loyalty to the Crown, and those from Dutch and English alike. The name " Alfred," in 144 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. honour of His Royal Highness, is to be every- where met with in connection with all sorts of public bodies, Volunteer Corps, and other Institutions. " Personal influence goes for more than all the defined policies of successive administrations, or excellent theories of Government. A Prince is of more w^eight than the best of oflicial Governors, and it is not likely that in medieval ages, or even at later periods, such an appanage of the Crown, as we desire South Africa to become, would be unvisited by either the Sovereign, or someone of the Sovereign's family. The visit of their Poyal Highnesses Prince Albert Victor, and Prince George of Wales was limited to a l)rief sojourn at Cape Town, and did not extend to the Colony in general. " The necessity for the employment, . in the interests of the Empire, to use the phrase most THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 145 practical, — uncouth, however, it may seem, — of our Royal Princes appears to be a very decided and certain means to the end we have in view, namely, the binding together, by means of sympathetic enthusiasm, the Colonies to the Mother Country, but most particularly the creating of a healthy common accord between South Africa and Great Britain. " Let any Colony or Dependency feel assured that it is regarded as worthy of attention by those nearest to the Crown, and any sense of isolation, any suspicion that the people, or their country are regarded wjth any measure of contemptuous indifference must forthwith vanish. Sympathy, encouragement, personal contact, seem to be essential elements to the solution of what is admittedly a problem." I regard this letter of my well informed correspondent as a most interesting and truthful expression of wide-spread opinion, s 146 A WINTER TOUR IN SOUTH AFRICA. among the intelligent classes of Her Majesty's loyal subjects in South Africa. I do not believe the South African political problem to be insoluble. Two things are required to solve it satisfactorily. For the present, — I quote the eloquent words of a distinguished politician with whose wise and noble sentiments I cordially agree — " what we ought to do in a case of this kind is to send out a statesman of the first order of talent, patience, and truthfulness, irrespective of politics or prejudice. For it is an Imperial problem of the highest importance ; and the powers of true patriotism and ambition should be amply gratified in dealing with it." And for the future, let me add my own earnest conviction, that what is wanted is Imperial Federation, as the goal to be ultimately reached, to render South Africa politically satisfied and content. THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 147 Imperial Federation means a constitu- tional system, under which she would 1)6 no longer misruled and misunderstood, by a Government, in which she has no share, in which she places no confidence, and by whom her wants and wishes are often ignored. It is not, as is frequently untruly asserted by writers, and speakers, who have neither studied, comprehended, nor understood its theory and intention, its end and aim, that it means the subjugation of the independence of the Colonies to the control of the Mother Country. As one of its most earnest advocates, I emphatically protest against all such erroneous interpretations, as a libel on the principle put forward, as a plan for the National Govern- ment. On the contrary, the project of Imperial Federation, without any arriere _29e?i5ce, clearly and distinctly involves the condition, that the Colonies themselves are to take their adequate 148 A WINTER TOUR TV SOUTH AFRICA. part, and share with the Mother Country in its future concrete constitution. In the hrief, l3ut expressive phrase, I have already pub- Hcly adopted, Imperial Federation means, " the Government of the Empire by the Empire." In Imperial Federation, therefore. South Africa would be fairly and influentially represented, alone" with the other Colonies of Great Britain. In union with them she would take her part in guiding the policy, and directing the des- tinies of the whole British Empire, APPENDIX I. The following discussion took place on the paper read by Sir Frederick Young, on South Africa, at the opening meeting of the Session of the Royal Colonial Institute, on Novemher 12th, at which the Marquis of Lome presided : — Professor H. G. Sekley : In common with you all, I have listened with great pleasm-e to this interesting and wide-reaching address. I have not myself heen so far afield. My observations were limited to Cape Colony ; and the things which I saw in that Colony were necessarily, to a large extent, different from those recorded by Sir Frederick Young. On landing at Cape Town I naturally turned to what the people of South Africa were doing for themselves, and confess I was amazed when I saw the great docks, by means of which the commerce of South Africa is being encouraged, and by which it will hereafter be developed. I was impressed, too, with the educational institutions, the great Public Library, worthy of any town, the South African Museum, the ISO APPENDIX. South African College, and the various efforts made to bring the newest and best knowledge home to the people. But perhaps in Cape Town, the thing which impressed me as most curious was the new dock, in process of construction by excavating stone for the breakwater and other purposes. This work was carried on by coloured convict labour. The convicts thus become trained in useful manual work, as well as in habits of obedience, and when they are discharged, are not only better men, but people in whose work employers of labour have confidence. I learned that the great public mountain roads in Cape Colony have thus been constructed by convict labour, at a comparatively small cost, while the convict acquires skill and useful training. Going up country, my attention, among other matters, was turned to the distribution of mineral wealth and difficulties of water supply, for, as Sir Frederick Young has remarked, the water supply is one of the great problems which all persons have to consider in South Africa. The season during which rain falls is short, and the rain drains rapidly down comparatively steep inclined surfaces, so that science of many kinds has to be enlisted to conserve the water, and turn the supply to account. • I found the rocks of much of the country have been curiously compressed and hardened and thrown into parallel irregular folds, and that these rocks were afterwards worn down by the action of water, at a time when the land was still beneath the ocean, with the result that many basin -shaped depressions are preserved and exposed, each of which holds a certain amount of water. Just as we never dream of putting down a well in this country without knowing the positions of the water-bearing strata, so it is hopeless to bore prolitably for water in the Colony till the districts are defined over which the water-bearing basins are spread. Nothing arrests the escape of water in its course through the rocks more APPENDIX. 151 efficiently than intrusive sheets of igneous rock which rise to the surface, but until the distribution of these dykes is systematically recorded it will not be possible to open out all the water which is preserved underground. There is no doubt that by utilising geological facts of this nature, a better water supply may be obtained, which will enable more land to be brought under culti- vation, and lai'ger crops to be raised. I may say that the Colonial Government is fully aware of the importance of following out such lines of work, and steps are being taken to give effect to such exploration. Vegetation, however, by its radiating power, must always be one of the chief aids to improved water supply. In the matter of mineral wealth, Cape Colony is not so rich as some adjacent lands. It contains coal, but the individual beds of coal are thin, and owing to this thinness the coal necessarily alternates with shale, which is more conspicuous than in the coal fields of Britain. I remember that Professor Sedgwick, my old master in geology, told me that in his youth seams of coal only some four to six inches thick were worked on the sides of hills in Yorkshire, and that the coal was carried on horseback over the country to supply the wants of the mountain population- Cape Colony is in a far better state than that. In the Eastern Province the beds of coal are frequently a foot or two or more in thickness. They crop out on the surface with a slight dip near to the railway, and although only worked at present in a few pits (as at Cyphergat, Fairview, Molteno — I did not visit the Indwe) — the coal-bearing rocks certainly extend over a much wider area of country than that which has been explored. One of the liappy results at which I arrived in my short visit to this district was to find that there are certain extinct forms of reptilian life associated with these coal beds, by means of which the geological horizon upon which the coal occurs may be traced through the 152 APPENDIX. country ; so that there is a prospect of this mineral being followed along its outcrop in the Eastern Province with comparative ease by this means. It is desirable on all accounts that coal should be burned rather than timber, since the destruction of wood is harmful to the supply of water. With regard to the gold of Cape Colonj-, I have not the requisite knowledge to speak with the same confi- dence. The quantity in any district is probably small : the amount is great in the aggregate, but very widely diffused. Gold appears to be present in small amounts in almost all the volcanic rocks, so that as those rocks decay and new mineral substances are formed out of the decomposed products, the gold which they contained is often preserved and concentrated in thin and narrow veins of zeolitic minerals, w^hich extend over the surface of these volcanic rocks. To what extent these zeolites may be hei-eafter worked with profit it is impossible at present to say, for much may depend upon water supply, by means of which the ore would be crushed and washed, and much on the varying quantities of gold present in samples from different localities. On the whole, the utilisation of science in the service of man, especially in relation to metals, coal, and water supply, if systematically carried out, will, I believe, be an element of future prosperity to Cape Colony, -and enable the Colony to minister to the welfare of adjacent lands. Mr. J. X. Meriumax : I am sure South Africans are very grateful indeed to the amiable and kindly critic in the person of Sir Frederick Young. It is no new thing to Colonists to owe him a debt. All those present will acknowledge the great things he has done for the Colonies in connection with the Royal Colonial Insti- tute. Sir Frederick Young is a man who has been content to look after small things, and the result is this Institute has been worked up by the individual efforts of Colonists and others to its present flourishing condition. I hoioe the Institute will long flourish, and APPENDIX. 153 never be absorbed by anything under more magnificent auspices — in other words, that you will "paddle your own canoe." It is good sometimes to have a plain statement from a plain man. South Africa suffers under a plague of experts who, after spending a few weeks there, tell us exactly what we ought to do ; and we don't like it. I wish I could speak to you as a sort of amiable critic, but I have the misfortune to belong to that much-despised class the local politician, and I notice that, when anybody says anything about the Colonies in England, all i;nite in kicking the local politician. In order not to sail under false colours, I state frankly that I belong to that class. Of course, South Africa is creating a deal of intei-est at the present time. People who come to fortunes usually do excite a great deal of interest among relations who may in times gone by have given them the cold shoulder. There can be no doubt as to the material prosperity of South Africa at the present tinie, and still less doubt as to the future. The gold fields of Witwatersrand are unique in tine world. This is not my own statement, but the statement of eminent mining engineers from America. For thirty miles and more you have a continuous stretch of reef, which gives throughout a uniform yield per ton, and which has been proved to the depth of some hundred feet, and may — there is every reason to believe — go to unknown depths. The reefs are now being worked in the most economical manner. When proper appliances for mining are used, and when we get the stock-jobbers off our backs, I believe a career of pros- pierity will open of which few people dream. From another point of view, to those who love the country and make their home there, there cannot but be a seamy side to the picture. Great wealth brings other things in its train. It has brought into South Africa a great spirit of gambling. People neglect the honest i}idustrics of the country : they leave their farm work, and rush off to make T 154 APPENDIX. fortunes in a minute. Everybody — from the king to the beggar — is gambling in gold shares. Everybody neglects his business, and talks about nothing else. I ask whether this is a wholesome state of society ? Is it not a state of society to which we may look with some degree of apprehension ? I believe myself that things will work round, but, undoubtedly, the state of affairs is serious. After all, there is something which goes to build up a country besides material wealth, and I am not sure that gambling in gold shares is exactly the thing which is wanted. Of course, there have been other countries where these vast increases of material wealth have occurred— California and Australia — but there the conditions were different. They were new countries, which attracted large numbers of white men, and, when they found the gold fields did not pay, they made homes for themselves on the land. Unfortunately, that state of affairs does not exist at the present time in South Africa, and that brings us face to face with the great problem on which Sir Frederick Young has touched — the great problem which we have always before us — viz., how two races utterly alien to each other, the black and the white, are to live and increase side by side. South Africa is the only country in the world where that problem exists, excepting the Southern States of North America. This is a great question, on which the future of South Africa depends. Unfortunately, the white men do not work in a country where the black race flourishes. If the white man does not become a "boss," he sinks to the level of a mean white man. The difficulty is to get a state of society in which the white race shall flourish side by side with the black ; and when people talk about the " local politicians," the "average Cape politician," and the like, they should remember we have to deal with this enormous problem — that we are anxious to do justice to the "black," and at the same time we are naturally anxious to see the European population APPENDIX. 155 tiourish. I believe the gold fields will attract a large European population. The wages are enormous. There are 20,000 black men, without a stitch upon them, earning as much as eighteen shillings a week a-piece, and getting as much food as they can eat, in the mines of Johannesburg. People talk about the treatment of the blacks. Nobody dares to treat them badly, because they would run away. There is a competition for them, and the black man has an uncommonly rosy time of it. The white men naturally wont work under the same conditions as the blacks. I saw a letter from an operative cautioning his fellow artisans against going out. He says, " We get thirty shillings a day, but it is a drea^lful place to live in." I ask the operatives in England to mistrust that statement. ("What is the cost of living?") You can live at the club very well indeed for £10 a month — the club, mind you, where the aristocracy live. It is idle to tell me the honest artisan caimot live. In addition to the black and white population, there is another problem, and that is, the influx of Arabs, who creep down the East Coast through the door of Natal. They are gradually ousting the English retail trader. You may go to up-country towns, and in whole streets you will see these yellow fellows, sitting there in their muslin dresses, where formerly there were English traders. In places where we want to cultivate the English population, that is a very serious thing. Our yellow friends come under the garb of British subjects from Bombay, and are making nests in the Transvaal and elsewhere by ousting the English retail trader. Sir Frederick Young has alluded to State colonisation. I am sorry to differ from so amiable a critic of our ways, but, as one who has had a little experience, I can tell him that you may send Colonists out, but you cannot as easily make them stay there. If they make their fortmies, they come home to England to spend them. If they are poor, and bad 156 APPENDIX. times come, the black man crowds them out, and off they go to Australia. You can depend on a German peasant settling, but bring an Englishman or a Scotchman, and he wants to better himself. In that he is quite right, but he does not see his way on a small plot of ground, and off he goes down a mine, or some- thing of that sort. There are great difficulties in the way of State-aided emigration. We do not want the riff-raff; we don't want the " surplus population." It is one of the greatest diffi- culties to get decent, steady Englishmen to settle on the land. It is the people who settle on the land who make a country, and if Sir Frederick Young can give us a receipt for making English people settle there he will confer one of the greatest possible benefits on South Africa. Sir Frederick Young departed from the usual custom on such occasions by touching on politics. I am glad he did, because more interest is given to the discussion, and there is nothing like good, healthy controversy. Sir Frederick Young is greatly concerned that there should be a settled policy for South Africa. All I can say is, in Heaven's name, don't listen to a syren voice of that kind. So surely as you have a settled policy — some great and grand scheme — so surely will follow disaster and disgrace. The people of South Africa may be very stupid, but they are very much like other people — determined to make their policy themselves, and the policy of South Africa is not going to be framed in Downing Street. I cannot help thinking , Sir Frederick Young did injustice to some of my friends who have been at the head of affairs. " The mournful mismanagement of South African affairs," he says, "during the last twenty-five yeare, and most especially during the last decade, has been truly lament- able, and cannot fail to awaken the saddest feelings on the part of every loyal Briton and true-hearted patriot." But have affairs been mismanaged for the last twenty-five years? The revenue APPENDIX. 157 twenty-five years ago was £-500,000. It is now nearly £4,000,000. For twenty-five years, under the beneficent rule of Downing Street, we had not a mile of railway. Now we have 2,000 miles. Twenty- five years ago there was no national feeling at all. Now there is a strong South African feeling, which is destined to grow and build up a South African policy. As to the talk about a settled and firm policy. Sir Philip Wodehouse was the last Governor who had a grand scheme from Downing Street. A more honest, conscientious, and able man did not exist ; but his policy was a failure. Then came my friend Sir Henry Barkly. His policy was distinctly opposite. It was a true policy for South Africa. It was a policy of lai^xuz-Jairc. The result was, things went on as merrily as a marriage bell, Dutch and English drew together, the natives were quiet, South Africa was prosperous, and everything went on as happily as possible till Mr. Froude and Lord Carnarvon hit on the grand scheme of uniting South Africa. From that day our misfortunes began. One of the most able, courteous, and high- minded gentlemen in the British service — Sir Bartle Frere — was sent to carry out this firm policy. What was the result ? Failure. I will say nothing more about it. Then Sir Hercules Eobinson reverted to the l(ii>