GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT, ome es u GHEOKGE AUGUSTUS SALA, AUTHOR OF "A JOURNEY DUE NORTH," "TWICE ROUND THE CLOCK,' " THE BADDINGTON PEERAGE," ETC. LONDON: CHAPMAN & HALL, 193 PICCADILLY. 1859. STACK LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET. CONTENTS. CHAP. . PAGR I. THE KEY OF THE STREET ... 1 II. GETTING UP A PANTOMIME . . 16 I/ III. DOWN WHITECHAPEL, FAR AWAY . . 32 IV. JACK ALIVE IN LONDON . . . 41 V. THINGS DEPARTED . . . .56 VI. PHASES OF 'PUBLIC' LIFE. I. . . 66 VII. PHASES OF 'PUBLIC' LIFE. II. . . 80 VIII. PHASES OF ' PUBLIC ' LIFE. III. . . 92 IX. POWDER DICK AND HIS TRAIN . . 102 X. MY SWAN .... 114 XI. THE BOTTLE OF HAY .... 122 XII. CITY SPECTRES . . . . . 135 XIH. HOUSELESS AND HUNGRY . . .145 XIV. THE SECRETS OF THE GAS . 156 XV. PERFIDIOUS PATMOS . . .163 XVI. LEICESTER SQUARE . ' . . 173 XVII. DAYBREAK . . . . .184 XVIII. ARCADIA . . . . 192 XIX. TRAVELS IN CAWDOR STREET . . . 206 XX. HOUSES TO LET . _ ,^ . . . 216 XXI. TATTYBOYS RENTS . . . .231 479 IV CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE XXII. TATTYBOYS RENTERS . . . 245 XXIII. DOWN WHITECHAPEL WAY . . . 256 XXIV. THE MUSICAL WORLD . . . 269 XXV. MUSIC IN PAVING-STONES . . . 283 XXVI. A LITTLE MORE HARMONY . . 297 XXVII. GIBBET STREET . . . . 307 XXVIII. STROLLERS AT DUMBLEDOWNDEARY . . 315 XXIX. CHEERILY, CHEERILY! . . . 330 S XXX. HOW I WENT TO SEA . . . 345 XXXI. FASHION ..... 360 XXXII. YELLOWKNIGHTS . . . . 367 f XXXIII. THE SPORTING WORLD . . . 374 XXXIV. WHERE ARE THEY? . 390 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. i. THE KEY OF THE STREET. / IT is commonly asserted, and as commonly believed, that there are seventy thousand persons in London who rise every morn- ing without the slightest knowledge as to where they shall lay their heads at night. However the number may be over or understated, it is very certain that a vast quantity of people are daily in the above-mentioned uncertainty regarding sleep- ing accommodation, and that when night approaches, a great majority solve the problem in a somewhat (to themselves) disagreeable manner, by not going to bed at all. People who stop up, or out all night, may be divided into three classes : First, editors, bakers, market-gardeners, and all those who are kept out of their beds by business. Secondly, gentlemen and 'gents/ anxious to cultivate a knowledge of the ' lark' species, or intent on the navigation of the ' spree.' Thirdly, and lastly, those ladies and gentlemen who do not go to bed, for the very simple reason that they have no beds to goto. The members of this last class a very numerous one are said, facetiously, to possess ' the key of the street/ And a remarkably disagreeable key it is. It will unlock for you all manner of caskets you would fain know nothing about. It is the ' open sesame ' to dens you never saw before, and would much rather never see again, a key to knowledge which should surely make the learner a sadder man, if it make him not a wiser one. Come with me, luxuriant tenant of heavy-draped four-poster basker on feather-bed, and nestler in lawn sheets. Come B 2 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. with, me, comfortable civic bolster-presser snug woollen- nightcap-wearer. Come with me, even workman, labourer, peasant sleeper on narrow pallet though your mattress be hard, and your rug coarse. Leave your bed bad as it may be and gaze on those who have no beds at all. Follow with me the veins and arteries of this huge giant that lies a-sleeping. Listen while with ' the key of the street ' I unlock the stony coffer, and bring forth the book, and from the macadamised page read forth the lore of midnight London Life. I have no bed to-night. Why, it matters not. Perhaps I have lost my latch-key, perhaps I never had one ; yet am fearful of knocking up my landlady after midnight. Perhaps I have a caprice a fancy for stopping up all night. At all events, I have no bed ; and, saving ninepence (sixpence in silver and threepence in coppers), no money. I must walk the streets all night ; for I cannot, look you, get anything in the shape of a .bed for less than a shilling. Coffee-houses, into which seduced by their cheap appearance I have entered, and where I have humbly sought a lodging, laugh my ninepence to scorn. They demand impossible eighteen- pences unattainable shillings. There is clearly no bed for me. It is midnight so the clanging tongue of St. Dunstan's tells me as I stand thus, bedless, at Temple Bar. I have walked a good deal during the day, and have an uncomfort- able sensation in my feet, suggesting the idea that the soles of my boots are made of roasted brick-bats. I am thirsty, too (it is July, and sultry), and, just as the last chime of St. Dunstan's is heard, I have half a pint of porter and a ninth part of my ninepence is gone from me for ever. The public- house where I have it (or rather the beer-shop, for it is an establishment of the ' glass of ale and sandwich ' description) is an early-closing one ; and the proprietor, as he serves me, yawningly orders the pot-boy to put up the shutters, for he is ' off to bed.' Happy proprietor ! There is a bristly-bearded tailor, too, very beery, having his last pint, who utters a similar somniferous intention. He calls it ' Bedfordshire/ Thrice happy tailor ! I envy him fiercely, as he goes out, though, God wot, his bedchamber may be but a squalid attic, and his bed a tattered hop-sack, with a slop great-coat from the emporium of Messrs. Melchisedech and Son, and which he has been working at all day for a coverlid. I envy his children (I am sure he has a THE KEY OF THE STREET, 3 callow, ragged brood of them), for they have at least some- where to sleep, I havn't. I watch, with a species of lazy curiosity, the whole process of closing the ' Original Burton Ale House,' from the sudden shooting up of the shutters, through the area grating, like gigantic Jacks-in-a-box, to the final adjustment of screws and iron nuts. Then I bend my steps westward, and at the corner of Wellington Street stop to contemplate a cab-stand. Cudgel thyself, weary Brain, exhaust thyself, Invention, torture thyself, Ingenuity all, and in vain, for the miserable acquisition of six feet of mattress and a blanket ! Had I the delightful impudence, now the calm audacity of my friend, Bolt, I should not be five minutes without a bed. Bolt,, I verily believe, would not have the slightest hesitation in walking into the grandest hotel in Albernarle Street or Jermyn Street, asking for supper and a bootjack, having his bed warmed, and would trust to Providence and his happy knack of falling, like a cat, on all-fours, for deliverance in the morning. I could as soon imitate Bolt as I could dance on the tight-rope. Spunge again, that stern Jeremy Diddler, who always bullies you when you relieve him, and whose 'request for the loan of half a crown is more like a threat than a peti- tion Spunge, I say, would make a violent irruption into .a friend's room ; and, if he did not turn him out of his bed, would at least take possession of his sofa and his great-coats for the night, and impetuously demand breakfast in the morn- ing. If 1 were only Spunge, now ! What am I to do ? It is just a quarter past twelve ; how am I to walk about till noon to-morrow ? Suppose I walk three miles an hour, am I to walk thirty-five miles in these fearful London streets ? Suppose it rains, can I stand under an archway for twelve hours ? I have heard of the dark arches of the Adelphi, and of houseless vagrants crouching there by night. But, then, I have read that police constables are nightly enjoined by their inspectors to route out these vagrants, and drive them from their squalid refuge. Then there are the dry arches of Waterloo Bridge, and the railway arches ; but I abandon the idea of seeking refuge there, for I am naturally timorous, and I can't help thinking of chloroform and life-preservers in con- nexion with them. Though I have little to be robbed of, Heaven knows ! I have heard, too, of tramps' lodging-houses, and of the B 2 4 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. 1 twopenny rope.' I am not prepared to state that I would not avail myself of that species of accommodation, for I am getting terribly tired and foot-sore. But I don't know where to seek for it, and I am ashamed to ask. I would give something to lie down, too. I wonder whether that cabman would think it beneath his dignity to accept a pot of porter, and allow me to repose in his vehicle till he got a fare ? I know some cabmen never obtain one during the night, and I could snooze comfortably in hackney-carriage two thou- sand and twenty-two. But I cannot form a favourable opinion of the driver, who is discussing beer and democratic politics with the waterman ; and neither he nor any of his brother Jehus, indeed, seem at all the persons to ask a favour of. It is Opera night, as I learn from the accidentally-heard remark of a passing policeman. To watch the departing equipages will, surely, help to pass the time on bravely, and with something almost like hope, I stroll to Covent Garden Theatre. I am in the thick of it at once. Such a scrambling, push- ing, jostling, and shouting ! Such pawing of spirited horses, and objurgations of excited policemen ! Now, Mrs. Fitz- somebody's carriage stops the way ; and now, Mr. Smith, of the Stock Exchange, with two ladies on each arm, stands bewildered in a chaos of carriages, helplessly ejaculating * Cab.' Now, is there a playful episode in the shape of a policeman dodging a pickpocket among horses' heads, and under wheels ; and now, a pitiable one, in the person of an elderly maiden lady, who has lost her party in the crush, and her shoe in the mud, and is hopping about the piazza like an agonised sparrow. It is all over soon, however. The car- riages rattle, and the cabs lumber away. The great city people, lords of Lombard Street, and kaisers of Cornhill, depart in gorgeous chariots, emblazoned in front and at the back. The dukes and marquises, and people of that sort, glide away in tiny broughams, and infinitesimal clarences. The highest personage of the land drives off in a plain chariot, with two servants in plain black, more like a doctor (as I hear a gentle- man from the country near me indignantly exclaim) than a Queen. Mr. Smith has found his party, and the sparrow-like lady her shoe, by this time. Nearly everybody is gone. Stay, the gentleman who thinks it a ' genteel ' thing to go to the Opera, appears on the threshold carefully adjusting his white neckcloth with the huge bow, and donning a garment some- THE KEY OF THE STREET. 5 thing between a smockfrock and a horsecloth, which is called, I believe, the ' Opera envelope.' Pie will walk homo to Camberwell with his lorgnette case in his hand, and in white kid gloves, to let everybody know where he has been. The policemen and the night wanderers will be edified, no doubt. Following him comes the habitue, who is a lover of music, I am sure. He puts his gloves, neatly folded, into his breast- pocket, stows away his opera-glass, and buttons his coat. Then he goes quietly over to the Albion, where I watch him gravely disposing of a pint of stout at the bar. He is ten to one a gentleman : and I am sure he is a sensible man. And now all, horse and foot, are departed ; the heavy portals are closed, and the Eoyal Italian Opera is left to the fireman, to darkness, and to me. The bed question has enjoyed a temporary respite while these proceedings are taking place. Its discussion is postponed still further by the amusement and instruction I derive from watching the performances in the ham and beef shop at the corner of Bow Street. Here are crowds of customers, hot and hungry from the Lyceum or Drury Lane, and clamorous for sandwiches. Ham sandwiches, beef sandwiches, German sausage sandwiches legions of sandwiches are cut and con- sumed. The cry is { mustard,' and anon the coppers rattle, and payment is tendered and change given. Then come the people who carry home half a pound of ' cold round ' or three- pennyworth of ' brisket ;' I scrutinise them, their purchases, and their money. I watch the scale with rapt attention, and wait with trembling eagerness the terrific combat between that last piece of fat and the half ounce weight. The half ounce has it ; and the beef merchant gives the meat a satisfied slap with the back of his knife, and rattles the price triumphantly. I have been so intent on all this, that I have taken no heed of time as yet ; so, when custom begins to flag, glancing at the clock, I am agreeably surprised to find it is ten minutes past one. A weary waste of hours yet to traverse the silence of the night season yet to endure. There are many abroad still ; but the reputable wayfarers drop off gradually, and the disre- putable ones increase with alarming rapidity. The great- coated policeman, the shivering Irish prowlers, and some fleeting shadows that seem to be of women, have taken undis- puted possession of Bow Street and Long Acre ; and but for a sprinkling of young thieves, and a few tipsy bricklayers, they would have it all their own way in Drury Lane. 6 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. I have wandered into this last-named unsavoury thorough- fare, and stand disconsolately surveying its aspect. And it strikes me now, that it is eminently distinguished for its street- corners. There is scarcely a soul to be seen in the street itself, but all the corners have posts, and nearly all the posts are garnished with leaning figures now two stalwart police- men holding municipal converse -now two women, God help them ! now a knot of lads with pale faces, long greasy hair, and short pipes. Thieves, my friend (if I had a jfriend) unmistakeable thieves. There are no professional beggars about what on earth is there for them to be out for ! The leggees are gone home to their suppers and their beds, and the beggars are gone, home to their suppers and their beds. They have all got beds, bless you ! Some of the doorways have heaps of something huddled up within them ; and ever and anon a policeman will come and stir the something up with his truncheon, or more probably with his boot. Then you will see a chaotic movement of legs and arms, and hear a fretful crooning with an Irish accent. Should the guardian of the night insist in the enforcement of his ' move on ' decree the legs and arms will stagger a few paces onward, and as soon as the policeman's back is turned, slink into another doorway to be routed out perchance again in another quarter of an hour by another truncheon, or another boot. Half-past one by the clock of St. Mary-le -Strand, and I am in Charles Street, Drury Lane. It is a very dirty little street this full worthy, I take it, to challenge competition with Church Lane or Buckeridge Street. A feeling, however, indefinable, but strong, prompts me to pursue its foul and devious course for some score of yards. Then I stop. ' Lodgings for single men at fourpence per night.' This agreeable distich greets me, pictured on the panes of a window, behind which a light is burning. I step into the road to have a good look at the establishment that proffers the invitation. It is a villanous ramshackle house a horrible cut-throat-looking den, to be sure : but then the fourpence ! Think of that, Master Brooke ! There is a profusion of hand- bills plastered on the door-jambs, which I can read by the light of a gas-lamp a few paces off. I decipher a flattering legend of separate beds, every convenience for cooking, and hot water always ready. I am informed that this is the real THE KEY OF THE STEEET. 7 model lodging-house; and I read, moreover, some derisive couplets relative to the Great Spitalfields Lodging-House, which is styled a ' Bastile F I begin fingering, involuntarily, the eightpence in my pocket. Heaven knows what uncouth company I may fall into ; but then, fourpence ! and my feet are so tired. Jacta est alea, I will have fourpenn'orth. You have heard ere now what the ' deputy ' of a tramps' lodging-house is like. I am received by the deputy a short- haired low-browed stunted lout, sometimes, it is said, not over courteous to inquisitive strangers. As, however, I come to sleep, and not to inspect, I am not abused, but merely inspected and admitted. I am informed that, with the addi- tion my company will make, the establishment is full. I pay my fourpence, without the performance of which ceremony I do not get beyond the filthy entrance passage. Then, the 4 deputy' bars the door, and, brandishing an iron candlestick as though it were an antique mace, bids me follow him. What makes me, when we have ascended the rotten stair- case, when I have entered my bedchamber when the * deputy ' has even bid me a wolfish good-night what makes me rush down stairs, and, bursting through the passage, beg him to let me out for Heaven's sake ? What makes me, when the ' deputy ' has unbarred the door, and bade me go out, and be something'd, and has not given me back my fourpence, stand sick and stupified in the street, till I wake up to a disgusted consciousness in being nearly knocked down by a group of staggering roysterers, howling out a drunken chorus ? It was not the hang-dog look of the ' deputy/ or the cut- throat appearance of the house. It was not even the aspect of the score or more ragged wretches who were to be my sleeping companions. It was, in plain English, the smell of the bugs. Ugh! the place was alive with them. They crawled on the floor they dropped from the ceiling they ran mad races on the walls ! Give me the key of the street, and let me wander forth again. I have not got further than Broad Street, St. Giles's, before I begin to think that I have been slightly hasty. I feel so tired, so worn, so full of sleep now, that I can't help the thought that I might have fallen off into heavy sleep yonder and that the havoc committed by the bugs on my carcase might have been borne unfelt. It is too late now. The fourpence are departed, and I dare not face the deputy again. 8 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. Two in the morning, and still black, thick, impervious- night, as I turn into Oxford Street, by Meux's Brewery. The flitting shadows that seemed to be of women, have grown scarcer. A quarter past two, and I have gained the Eegent Circus, and can take my choice, either for a stroll in the neighbourhood of the Kegent's Park, or a quiet lounge in the district of the Clubs. Quite an epicure ! I choose the Clubs,, and shamble down Eegent Street, towards Piccadilly. I feel myself slowly, but surely, becoming more of a regular night skulker a houseless, hopeless, vagrant, every moment* I feel my feet shuffle, my shoulders rise towards my ears ; my head goes on one side ; I hold my hands in a crouching position before me ; I no longer walk, I prowl. Though it is July, I shiver. As I stand at the corner of Conduit Street (all night skulkers affect corners), a passing figure, in satin and black lace, flings me a penny. How does the phantom know that I have the key of the streets ? I am not in rags, and yet my plight must be evident. So I take the penny. Where are the policemen, I wonder ? I am walking in the centre of the road, yet, from end to end of the magnificent street, I cannot see a single soul. Stay, here is one. A little fair-headed ruffian leaps from the shadow of Archbishop Tenison's Chapel. He has on a ragged pair of trousers, and nothing else to speak of. He vehemently demands to be allowed to turn head over heels three times for a penny. I give him the penny the phantom gave me (cheap charity!), and intimate that I can dispense with the tumbling. But he is too honest for that, and, putting the penny in his mouth, disappears in a series of summersaults. Then, the gas-lamps and I have it all to ourselves. Safe at the corner (corners again you see !) of what was once the Quadrant, where a mongrel dog joins company. I know he is a dog without a bed, like I am, for he has not that grave trot, so full of purpose, which the dog on business has. This- dog wanders irresolutely, and makes feigned turnings up by- streets returning to the main thoroughfare in a slouching manner ; he ruminates over cigar-stumps and cabbage-stalks, which no homeward-bound dog would do. But even that dog is happier than I am, for he can lie down on any doorstep, and 1 take his rest, and no policeman shall say him nay ; but the New Police Act won't let me do so, and says sternly that I must ' move on.' Hallo ! a rattle in the distance nearer nearer louder and THE KEY OF THE STREET. 9 louder ! Now it bursts upon my sight. A fire-engine at full speed ; and the street is crowded in a moment ! Where the people come from / don't pretend to say but there they are hundreds of them all wakeful and noisy, and clamorous. On goes the engine, with people hallooing, and following, and mingling with the night wind the dreadful cry of FIRE. I follow of course. An engine at top speed is as potent a spell to a night prowler, as a pack of hounds in full cry is to a Leicestershire yeoman. Its influence is contagious too, and the crowd swells at every yard of distance traversed. The fire is in a narrow street of Soho, at a pickle-shop. It is a fierce one, at which I think the crowd is pleased ; but then nobody lives in the house, at which I imagine they are slightly cha- grined ; for excitement, you see, at a fire is everything. En revanche there are no less than three families of small children next door, and the crowd are hugely delighted when they are expeditiously brought out in their night-dresses, by the Fire- brigade. More excitement ! The house on the other side has caught fire. The mob are in ecstasies, and the pickpockets make a simultaneous onslaught on all the likely pockets near them, I am not pleased, but interested highly interested. I would pump, but I am not strong in the arms. Those who pump, I observe, receive beer. I have been watching the blazing pile so long basking, as it were, in the noise and shouting and confusion ; the hoarse clank of the engines the cheering of the crowd the dull roar of the fire, that the bed question has been quite in abey- ance, and I have forgotten all about it and the time. But when the fire is quenched, or at least brought under, as it is at last ; when the sheets of flame and sparks are succeeded by columns of smoke and steam ; when, as a natural consequence, the excitement begins to flag a little, and the pressure of the crowd diminishes ; then, turning away from the charred and gutted pickle-shop, I hear the clock of St. Anne's, Soho, strike four, and find that it is broad daylight. Four dreary hours yet to wander before a London day com- mences ; four weary, dismal revolutions on the clock-face, before the milkman makes his rounds, and I can obtain access to my penates, with the matutinal supply of milk ! To add to my discomfort and to the utter heart- weariness and listless misery which is creeping over me, it begins to 10 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. rain. Not a sharp pelting shower, but a slow, monotonous, ill-conditioned drizzle ; damping without wetting now delud- ing you into the idea that it is going to hold up, and now with a sudden spirt in your face, mockingly informing you that it has no intention of the kind. Yery wretchedly indeed I thread the narrow little streets a~bout Soho, meeting no one but a tom-cat returning from his club, and a misanthropic- looking policeman, who is feeling shutter-bolts and tugging at door-handles with a vicious aspect, as though he were dis- appointed that some unwary householder had not left a slight temptation for a sharp housebreaker. I meet another policeman in Golden Square, who looks dull ; missing, probably, the society of the functionary who guards the fire-escape situated in that fashionable locality, and who hasn't come back from the burnt pickle-shop yet. He honours me with a long stare as I pass him. ' Good morning,' he says. I return the compliment. * Going home to bed ?' he asks. * ' Y-e-es,' I answer. He turns on his heels and says no more ; but, bless you ! I can see irony in his bull's-eye contemptuous incredulity in his oil-skin cape ! It needs not the long low whistle in which he indulges, to tell me that he knows very well I have no bed to go home to. I sneak quietly down Sherrard Street into the Quadrant. I don't know why, but I begin to be afraid of policemen. I never transgressed the law yet I avoid the 4 force.' The sound of their heavy boot-heels disquiets me. One of them stands at the door of Messrs. Swan and Edgar's, and to avoid him I actually abandon a resolution I had formed of walking up Eegent Street, and. turn down the Haymarket instead. There are three choice spirits who evidently have got beds to go to, though they are somewhat tardy in seeking them. I can tell that they have latch-keys, by their determined air their bold and confident speech. They have just turned, or have been turned out from an oyster-room. They are all three very drunk, have on each other's hats, and one of them has a quantity of dressed lobster in his cravat. These promising gentlemen are ' out on the spree.' The doors of the flash public-houses and oyster-rooms are letting out similar detachments of choice spirits all down the Hay- THE KEY OF THE STREET. 11 market ; some of a most patrician sort, with most fierce mou- stachios and whiskers ; whom I think I have seen before, and whom I may very probably see again, in jackboots and golden aiguillettes, prancing on huge black horses by the side of Her Majesty's carriage, going to open Parliament. The gentlemen or rather gents on the ' spree ' call this ' life.' They will probably sleep in the station-house this morning, and will be fined various sums for riotous conduct. They will get drunk, I dare say, three hundred times in the course of a year, for about three years. In the last-mentioned space of time they will bonnet many dozen policemen, break some hundreds of gas-lamps, have some hundreds of 'larks,' and scores of 'rows.' They will go to Epsom by the rail, and create dis turbances on the course, and among the ' sticks,' and ' Aunt Sallies.' They will frequent the Adelphi at half-price, and haunt night-houses afterwards. They will spend their salaries in debauchery, and obtain fresh supplies of money from bill- discounters, and be swindled out of it by the proprietors of gambling-houses. Some day, when their health and their money are gone when they are sued on all their bills, and by all the tradesmen they have plundered they will be dis- charged from their situations, or be discarded by their friends. Then they will subside into Whitecross Street and the Insol- vent Debtors' Court and then, God knows ! they will die miserably, I suppose : of delirium tremens, maybe. I have taken a fancy to have a stroll save the mark ! in St. James's Park, and am about to descend the huge flight of stone steps leading to the Mall, when I encounter a martial band, consisting of a grenadier in a great-coat, and holding a lighted lantern (it is light as noon-day), an officer in a cloak, and four or five more grenadiers in great-coats, looking remark- ably ridiculous in those hideous grey garments. As to the officer, he appears to regard everything with an air of unmiti- gated disgust, and to look at the duty upon which he is en- gaged as a special bore. I regard it rather in the light of a farce. Yet, if I mistake not, these are ' Grand Bounds,' or something of the sort. When the officer gets within a few yards of the sentinel at the Duke of York's Column he shouts out some unintelligible question, to which the bearer of Brown Bess gives a responsive, but as unintelligible howl. Then the foremost grenadier plays in an imbecile manner with his lantern, like King Lear with his straw, and the officer flourishes his sword ; and ' Grand Rounds ' are over, so far as the Duke 12 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. of York is concerned, I suppose ; for the whole party trot gravely down Pall Mall, towards the Duchess of Kent's. I leave them, to their devices, and saunter moodily into the Mall. It is but a quarter to five, now ; and I am so jaded and tired that I can scarcely drag one foot after another. The rain has ceased ; but the morning air is raw and cold ; and the rawness clings, as it were, to the marrow of my bones. My hair is wet, and falls in draggled hanks on my cheeks. My feet seem to have grown preposterously large, and my boots so pre- posterously small. I wish I were a dog or a dormouse ! I long for a haystack, or a heap of sacks, or anything. I even think I could find repose on one of those terrible inclined planes which you see tilted towards you through the window of the Morgue at Paris. I have a good mind to smash a lamp, and be taken to the station-house. I have a good mind to throw myself over Westminster Bridge. Isupposel am afraid ; for I don't do either. Seeing a bench under a tree, I fling myself thereon ; and, hard and full of knots and bumps as the seat is, roll myself into a species of ball, and strive to go to sleep. But oh, vain delusion ! I am horribly, excruciatingly wakeful, To make the matter worse, I rise, and take a turn or two then I feel as though I could sleep standing ; but availing myself of what I consider a favourably drowsy moment, I cast myself on the bench again, and find myself as wakeful as before ! There is a young vagrant a tramp of some eighteen sum- mers sitting beside me fast asleep, and snoring with pro- voking pertinacity. He is half naked, and has neither shoes nor stockings. Yet he sleeps, and very soundly too, to all ap- pearance. As the loud-sounding Horse-Guards clock strikes five, he wakes, eyes me for a moment, and muttering ' hard lines, mate/ turns to sleep again. In the mysterious free- masonry of misery, he calls me * mate.' I suppose, eventually that I catch from him some portion of his vagrant acquire- ment of somnolence under difficulties, for, after writhing and turning on the comfortless wooden seat till every bone and muscle are sore, I fall into a deep, deep sleep so deep it seems- like death. So deep that I don't hear the quarters striking of that nui- sance to Park-sleepers, the Horse-Guards clock and rise only, suddenly en sursaut, as six o'clock strikes. My vagrant friend has departed, and being apprehensive myself of cross examina- tion from an approaching policeman (not knowing, in fact, what hideous crime sleeping in -St. James's Park might be) I also THE KEY OF THE STREET. 13 withdrew, feeling very fagged and footsore yet slightly refreshed by the hour's nap I have had. I pass the stands where the cows are milked, and curds and whey dispensed, on summer evenings ; and enter Charing Cross by the long Spring- Garden passage. I have been apprised several times during the night that this was a market-morning in Covent Garden. I have seen waggons, surmounted by enormous mountains of vegetable- baskets, wending their way through the silent streets. I have been met by the early costermongers in their donkey-carts, and chaffed by the costerboys on my forlorn appearance. But I have reserved Covent Garden as a bonne louche a wind-up to my pilgrimage ; for I have heard and read how fertile is the market in question in subjects of amusement and contempla- tion. I confess that I am disappointed. Covent Garden seems to me to be but one great accumulation of cabbages. I am pelted with these vegetables as they are thrown fro*m the lofty summits of piled waggons to costermongers standing at the base. I stumble among them as I walk ; in short, above, below, on either side, cabbages preponderate. I dare say, had I patience, that I should see a great deal more ; but I am dazed with cabbages, and jostled to and fro, and ' danged ' dreadfully by rude market-gardeners so I eschew the market, and creep round the piazza. I meet my vagrant friend of the Park here, who is having a cheap and nutritious breakfast at a coffee-stall. The stall itself is a nondescript species of edifice something between a gipsy's tent and a watchman's box ; while, to carry out the comparison, as it were, the lady who serves out the coffee very much resembles a gipsy in person, and is clad in a decided watchman's coat. The aromatic beverage (if I may be allowed to give that name to the compound of burnt beans, roasted horse-liver, and refuse chicory, of which the ' coffee ' is com- posed) is poured, boiling hot, from a very cabalistic-looking cauldron into a whole regiment of cups and saucers standing near ; while, for more solid refection, the cups are flanked by plates bearing massive piles of thick bread and butter, and an equivocal substance, called c cake.' Besides my friend the vagrant, two coster-lads are partaking of the hospitalities of the cafe ; and a huge gardener, straddling over a pile of potato-sacks, hard by, has provided himself with bread and butter and coffee, from the same establishment, and is con- 14 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. them with such avidity that the tears start from his eyes at every gulp. I have, meanwhile, remembered the existence of a certain fourpenny-piece in my pocket, and have been twice or thrice tempted to expend it. Yet, on reflection, I deem it better to purchase with it a regular breakfast, and to repair to a legiti- mate coffee-shop. The day is by this time getting rapidly on, and something of the roar of London begins to be heard in earnest. The dull murmur of wheels has never ceased, indeed, the whole night through ; but now, laden cabs come tearing past on their way to the railway station. The night policemen gradually disappear, and sleepy potboys now gradually appear, yawning at the doors of public-houses sleepy wait- resses at the doors of coffee-houses and reading-rooms. There have been both public-houses and coffee-shops open, however, the whole night. The 'Mohawks' Arms' in the market never closes. Young Lord Stultus, with Captain Asinus of the Heavies, endeavoured to turn on all the taps there at four o'clock this morning, but at the earnest desire of Frume, the landlord, desisted ; and subsequently subsided into a chivalrous offer of standing glasses of ' Old Tom ' all round, which was as chivalrously accepted. As the ' all round ' comprised some thirty ladies and gentlemen, Frume made a very good thing of it ; and, like a prudent tradesman as he is, he still further acted on the golden opportunity, by giving all those members of the company (about three-fourths) who were drunk, glasses of water instead of gin ; which operation contributed to dis- courage intemperance, and improve his own exchequer in a very signal and efficacious manner. As with the ' Mohawks' Arms,' so with the 'Turpin's Head,' the great market- gardeners' house, and the ' Pipe and Horse Collar,' frequented by the night cabmen to say nothing of that remarkably snug little house near Drury Lane, ' The Blue Bludgeon,' which is well known to be the rendezvous of the famous Tom Thug and his gang, whose achievements in the strangling line, by means of a silk handkerchief and a life-preserver, used tourniquet fashion, were so generally admired by the consistent advocates of the ticket-of-leave system. I peep into some of these noted hostelries as I saunter about. They begin to grow rather quiet and demure as the day advances, and will be till midnight, indeed, very dull and drowsy pothouses, as times go. They don't light up to life, and jollity, and robbery, and violence, before the small hours. THE KEY OF THE STEEET. 15 So with, the coffee-shops. The one I enter, to invest my fourpence in a breakfast of coffee and bread and butter, has been open all night likewise ; but the sole occupants now are a dirty waiter, in a pitiable state of drowsiness, and half a dozen homeless wretches who have earned the privilege of sitting down at the filthy tables by the purchase of a cup of coffee, and, with their heads on their hands, are snatching furtive naps, cut short too short, alas! by the pokes and * Wake up, there !' of the waiter. It is apparently his consigne to allow no sleeping. I sit down here, and endeavour to keep myself awake over the columns of the ' Sun ' newspaper of last Tuesday week unsuccessfully, however. I am so jaded and weary, so dog- tired and utterly worn out, that I fall off again to sleep ; and whether it is that the waiter has gone to sleep too, or that the expenditure of fourpence secures exemption for me, I am allowed to slumber. I dream this time. A dreadful vision it is, of bugs, and cabbages, and tramping soldiers, and anon of the fire at the pickle-shop. As I wake, and find, to my great joy, that it is ten minutes past eight o'clock, a ragged little news-boy brings in a damp copy of the ' Times,' and I see half a column in that journal headed ' Dreadful Conflagration in Soho.' Were I not so tired, I should moralize over this, no doubt ; but there are now but two things in my mind two things in the world for me HOME and BED. Eight o'clock restores these both to me so cruelly deprived of them for so long a time. So, just as London work- away, steady-going London begins to bestir itself, I hurry across the Strand, cross the shadow of the first omnibus going towards the Bank ; and, as I sink be- tween the sheets of MY BED, resign the key of the street into the hands of its proper custodian, whoever he may be and, whoever he may be, I don't envy him. 16 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. CHRISTMAS is coming. Cold weather, snow in the streets, mince-pies, and our little boys and girls home for the holidays. Kind-hearted people's donations for the poor-boxes. Turkeys from the country ; Goose Clubs in town ; plums and candied citron in the windows of the grocers' shops ; hot elder wine ; snap-dragon ; hunt the slipper ; and the butchers' and bakers' quarterly bills. The great Anniversary of Humanity gives signs of its approach, and with it the joyfulness, and unbend- ing, and unstarching of white neckcloths, and unaffected charity, and genial hand-shaking and good fellowship, which, once a year at least, dispel the fog of caste and prejudice in this land of England. Christmas is coming, and, in his jovial train, come also the Pantomimes. Goodness ! though we know their stories all by heart, how we love those same Pantomimes still ! Though we have seen the same Clowns steal the same sausages, and have been asked by the Pantaloon ' how we were to-morrow ?' for years and years, how we delight in the same Clown, and Pantaloon still ! There can't be anything aesthetic in a pantomime it must be deficient in the ' unities ;' it has no ' epopoea,' or anything in the shape of dramatic property, connected with it : yet it must have something good about it to make us roar at the old, old jokes, and wonder at the old tricks, and be delighted with the old spangled fairies, and coloured fires. Perhaps there may be something in the festive season, something contagious in the wintry jollity of the year, that causes us, churchwardens, householders, hard men of business, that we may be, to forget parochial squabbles, taxes and water-rates, discount and agio- tage, for hours, and enter, heart and soul, into participation and appreciation of the mysteries of ' Harlequin Fee-fo-fum ; or the Enchanted Fairy of the Island of Abracadabra.' Pos- sibly there may be something in the shrill laughter, the ecstatic hand-clapping, the shouts of triumphant laughter of the little children, yonder. It may be, after all, that the sausages and the spangles, the tricks and coloured fires of Harlequin Fee-fo-fum may strike some long-forgotten chords ; rummage up long-hidden sympathies ; wake up kindly feel- GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 17 ings and remembrances of things that were, ere parochial squabbles, water-rates, and discount had being ; when we too were little children; when our jackets buttoned over our trousers, and we wore frills round our necks, and long blue sashes round our waists. Else why should something like a wateriness in the eye, and a huskiness in the throat (not sor- rowful, though) come over us, amid the most excruciatingly comic portion of the ' comic business ?' Else why should the lights, and the music, the children's laughter, and the spangled fairies conjure up that mind-picture, half dim and half distinct, of our Christmasses years ago ; of ' Magnall's Questions/ and emancipation from the cane of grandmamma, who always kept sweetstuff in her pockets ; of Uncle William, who was never without a store of half-crowns wherewith to ' tip' us ; of poor Sister Gussey, who died ; of the childish joys and griefs, the hopes and fears of Christmas, in the year eighteen hundred and ; never mind how many. Hip, hip, hip ! for the Pantomime, however ! Exultingly watch the Clown through his nefarious career ; roar at Jack- pudding tumbling ; admire the paint on his face ; marvel at the ' halls of splendour ' and ' glittering coral caves of the Genius of the Sea/ till midnight comes, and the green baize curtain rolls slowly down, and brown holland draperies cover the ormolu decorations of the boxes. Then, if you can spare half an hour, send the little children home to Brompton with the best of governesses, and tarry awhile with me while I dis- course of what goes on behind that same green curtain, of what has gone on, before the Clown could steal his sausages, or the spangled Fairy change an oak into a magic temple, or the coloured fires light up the * Home of Beauty in the Lake of the Silver Swans.' Let me, as briefly and succinctly as I can, endeavour to give you an idea of the immense labour, and industry, and perseverance of the nice ingenuity, and patient mechanical skill of the various knowledge, necessary, nay, indispensable ere Harlequin Fee-fo-fum can be put upon the stage ; ere the green baize can rise, disclosing the coral caves of the Genius of the Sea. Let us put on the cap of Fortunio, and the stilts of Asmodeus ; let us go back to when the pan- tomime was but an embryo of comicality, and, in its progress towards the glory of full-blown ^pantomime-hood, watch the labours of the Ants behind the Baize ants, without exaggera- tion ; for, if ever there was a human ant-hill, the working department of a theatre is something of that sort. 18 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. And mere amusement your mere enlightenment on a sub- ject, of which my readers may possibly be ignorant, are not the sole objects I have in view. I do honestly think that the theatrical profession and its professors are somewhat calum- niated ; that people are rather too apt to call theatres sinks of iniquity and dens of depravity, and to set down all actors as a species of diverting vagabonds, who have acquired a know- ledge of their calling without study, and exercise it without labour. I imagine, that if a little more were known of how hard-working, industrious, and persevering theatricals, as a body, generally are, of what has to be done behind the scenes of a theatre, and how it is done for our amusement, we should look upon the drama with a more favourable eye, and look upon even poor Jack-pudding (when he has washed the paint off his face) with a little more charity and forbearance. Fortunio-capped, then, we stand in the green-room of the Theatre Eoyal, Hatton Garden, one dark November morning, while the stage-manager reads the manuscript of the opening to the new grand pantomime of Harlequin Fee-fo-fum. The dramatic performers the pantomimists are not present at this reading, the lecture being preliminary, and intended for the sole behoof of the working ants of the theatrical ant-hill the fighting ants will have another reading to themselves. This morning are assembled the scene-painter, an individual be- spattered from head to foot with splashes of various colours, attired in a painted, ragged blouse, a battered cap, and slip- shod slippers. You would be rather surprised to see him turn out, when his work is over, dressed like a gentleman (as he is, and an accomplished gentleman to boot). Near him is the property-man, also painted and bespattered, and strongly per- fumed with a mingled odour of glue and turpentine. Then there is the carpenter, who twirls a wide-awake hat between his fingers, and whose attire generally betrays an embroidery of shavings. The leader of the band is present. On the edge of a chair sits the author not necessarily a seedy man, with long hair and a manuscript peeping out of his coat pocket, but a well-to-do looking gentleman, probably ; w r ith rather a nervous air just now, and wincing somewhat, as the droning voice of the stage-manager gives utterance to his comic com- binations, and his creamiest jokes are met with immovable stolidity from the persons present. Catch them laughing ! The scene-painter is thinking of ' heavy sets ' and i cut GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 19 ^cloths,' instead of quips and conundrums. The carpenter cogitates on ' sinks ' and ' slides,' ' strikes ' and i pulls.' The property-man ponders ruefully on the immense number of comic masks to model, and coral branches to paint ; while the master and mistress of the wardrobe, whom we have hitherto omitted to mention, mentally cast up the number of ^ells of glazed calico, silk, satin, and velvet required. Lastly, enthroned in awful magnificence in some dim corner, sits the management a portly, port-wine-voiced management, may "be, with a white hat, and a double eye-glass with a broad ribbon. This incarnation of theatrical power throws in an occasional ' Good !' at which the author colours, and sings a mental poean, varied by an ejaculation of ' Can't be done !' at which the dramatist winces dreadfully. The reading over, a short, desultory conversation follows. It would be better, Mr. Brush, the painter, suggests, to make the first scene a ' close in,' and not a ' sink.' Mr. Tacks, the carpenter machinist, we mean intimates in a somewhat threatening manner, that he shall want a ' power of nails and screws ;' while the master of the wardrobe repudiates, with respectful indignation, an economical suggestion of the manage- ment touching the renovation of some old ballet dresses by means of new spangles, and the propriety of cutting up an old crimson velvet curtain, used some years before, into costumes for the supernumeraries. As to the leader of the band, he is slowly humming over a very ' Little Warbler ' of popular airs, which he thinks he can introduce; while the stage- manager, pencil in hand, fights amicably with the author as to the cuts necessary to make the pantomime read with greater smartness. All, however, agree that it will do ; and to each working ant is delivered a ' plot ' of what he or she has to manufacture by a given time (generally a month or six weeks from the day of reading). Mr. Brush has a ' plot ' of so many pairs of flats and wings, so many ' borders ' and set pieces, so many cloths and backings. Mr. Tacks has a similar one, as it is his department to prepare the canvasses and machinery on which Mr. Brush subsequently paints. Mr. Tagg, the wardrobe keeper, is provided with a list of the fairies', demons,' kings,' guards,' and slaves' costumes he is required to confectionner ; and Mr. Eosin, the leader, is presented with a complete copy of the pantomime itself, in order that he may study its principal points, and arrange characteristic music for it. As for poor Mr. Gorget, the property-man, he departs c 2 . 20 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. in a state of pitiable bewilderment, holding in his hand a por- tentous list of properties required, from regal crowns to red- hot pokers. He impetuously demands how it's all to be done in a month. Done, it will be, notwithstanding. The stage-manager departs in a hurry (in which stage-managers generally are, twenty hours out of the twenty -four), and, en-- trapping the Clown in the passage (who is an eccentric cha- racter of immense comic abilities, and distinguished for train- ing all sorts of animals, from the goose which follows him like a clog, to a jackass-foal which resides in his sitting-room), enters into an animated pantomimic conversation with him, discoursing especially of the immense number of ' bits of fat ? for him (Clown) in the pantomime. The author's name we need not mention ; it will appear in the bill, as it has appeared in (and across) many bills, stamped and unstamped, before. When the officials have retired, he remains awhile with the management the subject of con- versation mainly relating to a piece of grey paper, addressed to Messrs. Coutts, Drummonds, or Childs. For the next few days, though work has not actually commenced in all its vigour, great preparations are made. Forests of timber, so to speak, are brought in at the stage door. Also, bales of canvas, huge quantities of stuffs for the wardrobe ; foil-paper, spangles and Dutch metal, generally. Firkins of size, and barrels of whiting, arrive for Mr. Brush ; hundred- weights of glue and gold-leaf for Mr. Gorget, not for- getting the ' power of nails and screws ' for Mr. Tacks. Another day, and the ants are all at work behind the baize for Harlequin Fee-fo-fum. Fortunio's cap will stand us in good stead again, and wo had better attach ourselves to the skirts of the stage-manager, who is here, there, and everywhere, to see that the work is being properly proceeded with. The carpenters have been at work since six o'clock this nice wintry morning ; let us see how they are getting on after breakfast. We crojss the darkened stage, and, ascending a very narrow staircase at the back thereof, mount into the lower range of ' flies.' A mixture this of the between-decks of a ship, a rope-walk, and the old wood-work of the Chain-pier at Brighton. Here are windlasses, capstans, ropes, cables, chains, pulleys innumerable. Take care ! or you will stumble across the species of winnowing-machine, used to imitate the noise of wind, and which is close to the large sheet of copper GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 21 which makes the thunder. The tin cylinder, filled with peas, used for rain and hail, is down stairs ; but you may see the wires, or 4 travellers,' used by ' flying fairies,' and the huge counterweights and lines which work the curtain and act- drop. Up then, again, by a ladder, into range of flies, No. 2, where there are more pulleys, windlasses, and counterweights, with bridges crossing the stage, and lines working the borders, and gas-pipes, with coloured screens, called * mediums,' which are used to throw a lurid light of a moonlight on scenes of battles or conflagrations, where the employment of coloured fires is not desirable. Another ladder (a rope one this time) has still to be climbed : and now we find ourselves close to the roof of the theatre, and in the Carpenters' Shop. Such a noise of sawing and chopping, hammering and chiselling ! The shop is a large one, its size corresponding to the area of the stage beneath. Twenty or thirty men are at work, putting together the framework of ' flats,' and covering the framework itself with canvas. Some are constructing the long cylinders, or rollers, used for ' drops,' or ' cloths ;' while others, on their knees, are busily following with a hand-saw the outline of a rock, or tree, marked in red lead by the scene- painter or profile (thin wood) required for a set piece. Mr. Tacks is in his glory, with his ' power "of nails and screws ' around him. He pounces on the official immediately. He must have ' more nails,' more ' hands ;' spreading out his own emphatically. Give him ' hands ! ' The stage-manager pacifies and promises. Stand by, there, while four brawny carpenters rush from another portion of the ' shop ' with the * Pagoda of Arabian Delights,' dimly looming through canvas and whitewash ! A curious race of men these theatrical carpenters. Some of them growl scraps of Italian operas, or melodramatic music, as they work. They are full of traditional lore anent the ' Lane ' and the * Garden ' in days of yore. Probably their fathers and grandfathers were theatrical before them ; for it is rare to find a carpenter of ordinary life at stage work, or vice vsrsd. Malignant members of the ordinary trade whisper even that their work never lasts, and is only fit for the ideal carpentry of a theatre. There is a legend, also, that a stage- carpenter being employed once to make a coffin, constructed it after the Hamlet manner, and ornamented it with scroll- work. They preserve admirable discipline, and k obey the 22 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. master carpenter implicity ; but, work once over, and out of the theatre, he is no more than one of themselves, and take.s beer with Tom or Bill, and the chair at their committee and sick-club reunions, in a perfectly republican and fraternal manner. These men labour from six in the morning until six in the evening ; and, probably, as Fee-fo-fum is a ' heavy pantomime,' from seven until the close of the performances. At night, when the gas battens below the flies are all lighted, the heat is somewhat oppressive : and, if you lie on your face on the floor, and gaze through the chinks of the planking, you will hear the music in the orchestra, and catch an occasional glimpse of the performers on the stage beneath, marvellously foreshortened, and microscopically diminished. The morning we pay our visit, a rehearsal is going on below, and a hoarse command is wafted from the stage to ' stop that hammering ' while Marc Antony is pronouncing his oration over the dead body of Csesar. The stage-manager, of course, is now wanted down stairs, and departs, with an oft-iterated injunction to ' get on.' We, too, must ' get on ' without him. We enter another carpenters' shop, smaller, but on the same level, and occupying a space above the horse-shoe ceil- ing of the audience part of the theatre. A sort of martello of wood occupies the centre of this apartment, its summit going through the roof. This is at once the ventilator, and the * chandelier house ' of the theatre. If we open a small door, we can descry, as our eyes become accustomed to the semi- darkness, that it is floored with iron, in ornamented scroll- work, and opening with a hinged trap. We can also see the ropes and pulleys, to which are suspended the great centre chandelier, and by which it is hauled up every Monday morning to be cleaned. More carpenters are busily at work, at bench and trestles, sawing, gluing, hammering. Hark ! we hear a noise like an eight- day clock on a gigantic scale running down. They are letting down a pair of flats in the painting-room. Let us see what they are about in the paint- ing-room itself. Pushing aside a door, for ever on the swing, we enter an apartment, somewhat narrow, its length considered, but very lofty. Half the roof, at least, is skylight. A longitudinal aperture in the flooring traverses the room close to the wall. This is the ' cut,' or groove, half a foot wide, and seventy feet in depth, perhaps, in which hangs a screen of wood-work, called a ' frame.' On this frame the scene to be painted is GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 23 placed ; aud, by means of a counterweight and a windlass, is worked up and down the cut, as the painter may require ; the sky being thus as convenient to his hand, as the lowest stone or bit of foliage in the foreground. When the scene is finished, a signal is given to ' stand clear ' below, and a bar in the windlass being removed, the frame slides with immense celerity down the cut to the level of the stage. Here the carpenters remove the flats, or wings, or whatever else may have been painted, and the empty frame is wound up again into the painting-room. Sometimes, instead of a cut, a 4 bridge ' is used. In this case the scene itself remains sta- tionary, and the painter stands on a platform, which is wound up and down by a windlass as he may require it a ladder being placed against the bridge if he wishes to descend with- out shifting the position of his platform. When the scene is finished, a trap is opened in the floor, and the scene slung by ropes to the bottom. The ' cut ' and frame are, it is needless to say, most convenient, the artist being always able to con- template the full effect of his work, and to provide himself with what colours, or sketches, he may need, without the trouble of ascending and descending the ladder. Mr. Brush, more bespattered than ever, with a ' double tie ' brush in his hand, is knocking the colour about, bravely. Five or six good men and true, his assistants, are also em- ployed on the scene he is painting the fairy palace of Fee-fo-fum, perchance. One is seated at a table, with some- thing very like the toy theatres of our younger days, on which we used to enact that wonderful ' Miller and his Men/ with the famous characters (always in one fierce attitude of triumphant defiance, we remember) of Mr. Park before him. It is, in reality, a model of the stage itself; and the little bits of pasteboard he is cutting out and pasting together form portions of a scene he is modelling ' to scale ' for the future guidance of the carpenter. Another is fluting columns with a thin brush called a ' quill tool/ and a long ruler, or ' straight-edge/ Different portions of the scene are allotted to different artists, according to their competence, from Mr. Brush, who finishes and touches up everything, down to the fustian-jacketed whitewasher, who is 'priming' or giving a preparatory coat of whiting and size to a pair of wings. Are you at all curious to know how the brilliant scenes you see at night are painted; you may watch the whole pro- cess of a pair of flats growing into a beautiful picture, under 24 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. Mr. Brush's experienced hands. First, the scene, well primed, and looking like a gigantic sheet of coarse cartridge-paper on a stretcher, is placed on the frame ; then, with a long pole, cleft at the end, and in which is stuck a piece of charcoal, Mr. Brush hastily scrawls (as it seems) the outline of the scene he is about to paint. Then, he and his assistants ' draw in ' a finished outline with a small brush and common ink, which, darkening as it dries, allows the outline to shine through the first layers of colour. Then, the whitewasher, 4 labourer,' as he is technically called, is summoned to ' lay in ' the great masses of colour sky, wall, foreground, &c., which he does with huge brushes. Then, the shadows are ' picked in ' by assistants, to whom enters speedily Mr. Brush, with a sketch in one hand, and brushes in the other, and he finishes finishes, too. with a delicacy of manipulation and nicety of touch which will rather surprise you pre- viously impressed as you may have been with an idea that scenes are painted with mops, and that scenic artists are a superior class of house-painters. Stay, here is the straight line of a cornice to be ruled from one part of the scene to the other, a space fifty feet wide, perhaps. Two labourers, one at either end, hold a string tightly across where the desired line is to be. The string has been well rubbed with pow- dered charcoal, and, being held up in some part, for a mo- ment, between the thumb and finger, and then smartly vibrated on to the canvas, again leaves a mark of black char- coal along the whole length of the line, which being followed by the brush and ink, serves for the guide line of the cornice. Again, the wall of that magnificent saloon has to be covered with an elaborate scroll-work pattern. Is all this outlined by the hand, think you ? No ; a sheet of brown paper, per- forated with pin-holes with a portion of the desired pattern, is laid against the scene ; the whole is then gently beaten with a worsted bag full of powdered charcoal, which, penetrating through the pin-holes, leaves a dotted outline, capable of repetition ad infinitum by shifting the pattern. This is called 6 pouncing.' Then some of the outlines of decoration are ' stencilled ;' but for foliage and rocks, flowers and water, I need not tell you, my artistical friend, that the hand of Mr. Brush is the only pouncer and stenciller. For so grand a pantomime as ' Fee-fo-fum,' a scene will, probably, after artistic completion, be enriched with foil paper and Dutch metal. Admire the celerity with which these processes are GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 25 effected. First, an assistant cuts the foil in narrow strips with a penknife; another catches them up like magic, and glues them ; another claps them on the canvas, and the scene is foiled. Then Mr. Brush advances with a pot, having a lamp beneath, filled with a composition of Burgundy pitch, rosin, glne, and bees-wax, called ' mordant.' "With this and a camel-hair brush, he delicately outlines the parts he wishes gilt. Half a dozen assistants rush forward with books of Dutch metal, and three-fourths of the scene are covered, in a trice, with squares of glittering dross. The superfluous particles are rubbed off with a dry brush, and, amid a very Danaean shower of golden particles, the outlines of mordant, to which the metal has adhered, become gradually apparent in a glittering net-work. Around this chamber of the arts are hung pounces and stencils, like the brown-paper patterns in a tailor's shop. There is a ledge running along one side of the room, on which is placed a long row of pots filled with the colours used, which are ground in water, and subsequently tempered with size, a huge cauldron of which is now simmering over the roomy fire-place. The colour-grinder himself stands before a table, supporting an ample stone slab, on which, with a marble muller, he is grinding Dutch pink lustily. The painter's palette is not the oval one used by picture painters, but a downright four-legged table, the edges of which are divided into compartments, each holding its separate dab of colour, while the centre serves as a space whereon to mix and gra- duate the tints. The j whitewashed walls are scrawled over with rough sketches and memoranda, in charcoal or red lead, while a choice engraving, here and there, a [ box of water- colours, some delicate flowers in a glass, some velvet drapery pinned against the wall, hint that in this timber-roofed, un- papered, uncarpeted, size-and-white wash-smelling workshop, there is Art as well as Industry. Though it is only of late years, mind you, that scene- painters have been recognised as Artists at all. They were called ' daubers,' * white washers,' ' paper-hangers,' by that class of artists to whom the velvet cap, the turn-down collars, and the ormolu frame, were as the air they breathed. These last were the gentlemen who thought it beneath the dignity of Art to make designs for wood-engravers, to paint porcelain, to draw patterns for silk manufacturers. Gradually they found out that the scene-painters made better architects, land 26 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. scape painters, professors of perspective, than they themselves did. Gradually they remembered that in days gone by, such men as Salvator Eosa, Inigo Jones, Canaletto, and Philip de Loutherbourg were scene-painters; and that, in our own times, one Stanfield had not disdained size and whitewash, nor a certain Eoberts thought it derogatory to wield the ' double tie ' brush. Scene-painting thenceforward looked up ; and even the heavy portals of the Academy moved creakingly on their hinges for the admittance of distinguished professors of scenic art. We have been hindering Mr. Brush quite long enough, I think, even though we are invisible ; so let us descend this crazy ladder, which leads from the painting-room down another flight of stairs. So : keep your hands out before you, and tread cautiously, for the management is chary of gas, and the place is pitch dark. Now, as I open this door, shade your eyes with your hand a moment, lest the sudden glare of light dazzle you. This is the ' property-room.' In this vast, long, low room, are manufactured the * properties ' all the stage furniture and paraphernalia required during the performance of a play. Look around you and wonder. The walls and ceiling are hung, the floor and tables cumbered with properties : Shy lock's knife and scales, Ophelia's coffin, Paul Pry's um- brella, Macbeth's truncheon, the caldron of the Witches, Har- lequin's bat, the sickle of Norma, Mambrino's helmet, swords, lanterns, banners, belts, hats, daggers, wooden sirloins of beef, Louis Quatorze chairs, papier-mache goblets, pantomime- masks, stage money, whips, spears, lutes, flasks of ' rich bur- gundy,' fruit, rattles, fish, plaster images, drums, cocked hats, spurs, and bugle-horns, are strewn about, without the slightest attempt at arrangement or classification. Tilted against the wall, on one end, is a four-legged banqueting table, very grand indeed, white marble top and golden legs. At this table will noble knights and ladies feast richly off wooden fowls and brown-paper pies, quaffing, meanwhile, deep pota- tions of toast-and- water sherry, or, haply, golden goblets full of nothing at all. Some of the goblets, together with elaborate flasks of exhilarating emptiness, and dishes of rich fruit, more deceptive than Dead Sea apples (for they have not even got ashes inside them), are nailed to the festive board itself. On very great occasions the bowl is wreathed with cotton wool, and the viands smoke with a cloud of powdered lime. Dread- GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 27 fully deceptive are these stage banquets and stage purses. The haughty Hospodar of Hungary drinks confusion to the Bold Bandit of Bulgaria in a liquorless cup, vainly thirsting; meanwhile, for a pint of mild porter from the adjacent hostelry. Deep are his retainers in the enjoyment of Warden pies and lusty capons, while their too often empty interiors cry dolorously for three penn'orth of cold boiled beef. Liberal is he also of broad florins, and purses of moidores, accidentally drawing, perchance, at the same time, a Lombardian deben- ture for his boots from the breast of his doublets. The meat is a sham, and the wine a sham, and the money a sham ; but are there no other shams, oh, brothers and sisters! besides those of the footlights? Have I not dined with my legs under sham mahogany, illuminated by sham wax-lights? Has not a sham hostess helped me to sham boiled turkey ? Has not my sham health been drunk by sham friends ? Do I know no haughty Hospodar of Hungary myself? There is one piece, and one piece only, on the stage, in which a real banquet a genuine spread is provided. That piece is ' No Song, No Supper.' However small may be the theatre however low the state of the finances the imme- morial tradition is respected, and a real leg of mutton graces the board. Once, the chronicle goes, there was a heartless monster, in property-man shape, who substituted a dish of mutton chops for the historical gigot. Execration, abhorrence, expulsion followed his iniquitous fraud, and he was, from that day, a property-man accursed. Curiously enough, while the leg of mutton in * No Song, No Supper/ is always real, the cake, introduced in the same piece, is as invariably a counter- feit the old stock wooden cake of the theatre. When it shall be known why waiters wear white neckcloths, and dustmen shorts and ankle jacks, the proximate cause of this discrepancy will, perhaps, be pointed out. To return to the property-room of the Theatre Eoyal, Hatton Garden. Mr. Gorget, the property ' master,' as he is called, is working with almost delirious industry. He has an imperial crown on his head (recentty gilt the crown, not the head and placed there to dry), while on the table before him lies a mass of modelling clay, on which his nimble fingers are shaping out the matrix of a monstrous human face, for a pantomimic mask. How quickly, and with what facility he moulds the hideous physiognomy into shape squeezing the eyelids, flattening the nose, elongating the mouth, furrowing 28 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. the cheeks ! When this clay model is finished, it will be well oiled, and a cast taken from it in plaster of Paris. Into this cast (oiled again) strips of brown paper, well glued and sized, will be pasted, till a proper thickness is obtained. When dry, the cast is removed, and the hardened paper mask ready for colouring. At this latter process, an assistant, whose nose and cheeks are plentifully enriched with Dutch metal and splashes of glue, is at work. He is very liberal with rose pink to the noses, black to the eyebrows, and white r to the eye. Then Mrs. Gorget, a mild little woman, who has been assiduously spangling a demon's helmet, proceeds to ornament the masks with huge masses of oakum and horsehair, red, brown, and black, which are destined to serve as their coiffure. Busily other assistants are painting tables, gilding goblets, and manufacturing the multifarious and bewildering miscellaneous articles required in the ' comic business * of a pantomime ; the sausages which the Clown purloins, the bustle he takes from the young lady, the fish, eggs, poultry, warming-pans, babies, pint pots, butchers' trays, and legs of mutton, incidental to his chequered career. Others besides adults are useful in the property-room. A bright-eyed little girl, Mr. Gorget's youngest, is gravely speckling a plum-pudding ; while her brother, a stalwart rogue of eleven, sits on a stool with a pot full of yellow ochre in one hand, and a brush in the other, with which he is giving a plentiful coat of bright yellow colour to a row con- taining a dozen pairs of hunting-boots. These articles of costume will gleam to-night on the legs and feet of the hunts- men of his highness the Hospodar, with whom you are already acquainted. Their wearers will stamp their soles on the merry green sward ha, ha ! waving above their heads the tin porringers, supposed to contain Rhine wine or Baerische beer. Mr. Gorget will have no easy task for the next three weeks. He will have to be up early and late until ' Fee-fo-fum ' is produced. The nightly performances have, meanwhile, to be attended to, and any new properties wanted must be made, and any old ones spoilt must be replaced, in addition to what is required for the pantomime. And something more than common abilities must have abiding place in a property-man, although he does not receive uncommonly liberal remunera- tion. He must be a decent upholsterer, a carpenter, a wig- maker, a painter, a decorator, accurate as regards historical property, a skilful modeller, a facile carver, a tasteful em- GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 29 broiderer, a general handy man and jack-of- all-trades. He must know something of pyrotechnics, a good deal of carving and gilding, and a little of mechanics. By the exercise of all these arts he earns, perhaps, fifty shillings a week. Come away from the property-room, just a glance into that grim, cavernous, coal-holey place on the left, where all the broken-up, used-out, properties are thrown, and is a sort of limbo of departed pantomimes ; and peeping curiously also into the room, where, on racks and on hooks, are arranged the cuirasses, muskets, swords, spears, and defunct yeomanry helmets, of the pattern worn when George the Third was king, which form the armoury of the theatre. Time presses, and we must have a look at the proceedings in the wardrobe. Mr. Barter is busily stitching, with many other stitchers (females), sedent, and not squatting Jagod-like, all of a row. His place of work is anything but large, and movement is rendered somewhat inconvenient, moreover, by a number of heavy presses, crammed to repletion with the costumes of the establishment. Mr. Baster has been overhauling his stock, to see what he can conveniently use again, and what must indis- pensably be new. He has passed in review the crimson velvet nobleman, the green-serge retainers, the spangled courtiers, the glazed-calico slaves, the ' shirts,' ' shapes,' ' Romaldis,' and ' strips ' of other days. He has held up to the light last year's Clown's dress, and shakes his head ruefully, when he contemplates the rents and livings, the rags and tatters, to which that once brilliant costume is reduced. Clown must, evidently, be new all over. Mr. Baster's forewoman is busy spangling Harlequin's patch-work dress ; while, in the hands of his assistants, sprites and genii, slaves and evil spirits, are in various stages of completion. So, in the ladies' wardrobe, where Miss de Loggie and her assistants are stitching for dear life, at Sea-nymphs', and Sirens', and Elfins' costume ; and where Miss Mezzanine, who is to play Columbine, is agonizingly inquisitive as to the fit of her skirt and spangles. Work, work, work, everywhere ; in the dull bleak morn- ing, when play-goers of the previous night have scarcely finished their first sleep ; at night, to the music of the orchestra below, and amid the hot glare of the gas. Mr. Tacks carries screws in his waistcoat pockets, and screws in his mouth. Mr. Gorget grows absolutely rigid with glue, while his assistants' heads and hands are unpleasantly en- SO GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. riclied with Dutch metal and foil-paper ; and the main stair- case of the theatre is blocked up with frantic waiters from adjoining hostelries laden with chops and stout for Mr. Brush and his assistants. The Management smiles approvingly, lout winces uneasily, occasionally, as Boxing-day draws near ; the stage-director is unceasing in his ' get ons.' All day long the private door of the Management is assailed by emissaries from Mr. Tacks for more nails, from Mr. Brush for more Venetian red and burnt sienna, from Mr. Baster for more velvet, from Mr. Gorget for more glue. The Manage- ment moves uneasily in its chair. ' Great expense,' it says. 4 If it should fail ?' ' Give us more nails, " hands," Venetian red, velvet, and glue, and we'll not fail,' chorus the ants behind the baize. Nor must you suppose that the pantomimists Clown, Harlequin, Pantaloon, and Columbine nor the actors playing In the opening, nor the fairies who fly, nor the demons who howl, nor the sprites who tumble, are idle. Every day the opening and comic scenes are rehearsed. Every day a melan- choly man, called the repetiteur, takes his station on the stage, which is illumined by one solitary gas jet ; and, to the dolour- music he conjures from his fiddle, the pantomimists, in over- suits of coarse linen, tumble, dance, jump, and perform other gymnastic exercises in the gloom, until their bones ache, and the perspiration streams from their limbs. Work, work, work, and Christmas-eve is here. Nails, hammers, paint-brushes, needles, muscles and limbs going in every direction. Mr. Brush has not had his boots cleaned for a week, and might have forgotten what sheets and counter- panes mean. Mr. Brush's lady in Camden Villa is, of course, pleased at the artistic fame her lord will gain in the columns of the newspapers, the day after the production of the panto- mimes, but she can't help thinking sometimes that Brush is < working himself to death.' No man works himself to death, my dear Mrs. B. } Tis among the idlers, the turners of the heavy head, and the folders of the hands to rest, that death reaps his richest harvest. No snap-dragon for Mr. Tacks, no hunt-the-slipper for Mr. Gorget. Pleasant Christmas greet- ings and good wishes, though, and general surmises that the pantomime will be a ' stunning ' one. Christmas-day, and, alas and alack ! no Christmas beef and pudding, save that from the cook-shop, and perchance the spare repast in the covered basin which little Polly Bruggs brings stalwart Bill GETTING UP A PANTOMIME. 31 Bruggs, the carpenter, who is popularly supposed to be able to carry a pair of wings beneath each arm. Incessant fiddling from the repetiteur. ' Trip,' 4 rally/ and ' jump,' for the pan- tomimists. Work on the stage, which is covered with canvas, and stooping painters, working with brushes stuck in bamboo walking-sticks. Work in the flies, and work underneath the stage, on the umbrageous mezzonine floor, where the cellar- men are busily slinging ' sinks ' and ' rises/ and greasing traps. An overflow of properties deluges the green-room ; huge masks leer at you in narrow passages ; pantomimic wheelbarrows and barrel-organs beset you at every step. So all Christmas-night. Hurrah for Boxing-day ! The ' compliments of the season/ and the 'original dustman.' Tommy and Billy (suffering slightly from indigestion) stand with their noses glued against the window-panes at home, watching anxiously the rain in the puddles, or the accumulating snow on the house-tops. Little Mary's mind is filled with radiant visions of the re- splendent sashes she is to wear, and the gorgeous fairies she is to see. John, the footman, is to escort the housemaid into the pit ; even Joe Barrikin, of the New Cut, who sells us our cauliflowers, will treat his c missus ' to a seat in the gallery for the first performance of Harlequin Fee-fo-fum. There the last clink of the hammer is heard, the last stroke of the brush, and the last stitch of the needle. The Management glances with anxious approval at the elaborately funny bill prepared with the assistance of almost every adult employed in the establishment, who is supposed to have a * funny ' notion about him, subject, of course, to the editorial supervision of the author, if he be in town, and the Manage- ment can catch him or he catch the Management of the even- ing's entertainment. It is six o'clock in the 'evening. The Clown (Signer Brownarini, of the Theatres Koyal) has a jug of barley-water made, his only beverage during his tumbling, and anxiously assures himself that there is a red-hot poker introduced into the comic business ; ' else/ says he, ' the pan- tomime is sure to fail/ Strange, the close connection between the success of a pantomime and that red-hot poker. A pan- tomime was produced at a London Theatre the old Adelphi, I think without (perhaps through inadvertence) a red-hot poker. The pantomime failed lamentably the first night. Seven o'clock, and one last frantic push to get everything ready. Tommy, Billy, Mary, Papa and Mamma, arrive in 32 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. flies, broughams, or cabs. The footman and housemaid are smiling in the pit ; and Joe Barrikin is amazingly jolly and thirsty, with his ' missus ' in the gallery. Now then, ' Music P ' Play up !' ' Order, order !' and, ' Throw him over !" ' George Barn well,' or ' Jane Shore/ inaudible of course, and then i Har- lequin Fee-fo-fum, or the Enchanted Fairy of the Island of Abracadabra.' Fun, frolic, and gaiety; splendour, beauty, and blue-fire ; hey for fun ! ' How are you to-morrow ?' and I hope success and crowded houses till the middle of February, both for the sake of the author, the Management, and the Theatre Eoyal, Hatton Garden, generally. The ants behind the baize have worked well, but they have their reward in the ' glorious success ' of the pantomime they have laboured so hard at. They may wash their faces, and have their boots cleaned now ; and who shall say that they do not deserve their beer to-night, and their poor salaries next Saturday ? Eeader, as Christmas time comes on, pause a little ere you utterly condemn these poor play-acting people as utter profli- gates, as irreclaimable rogues and vagabonds. Consider how hard they work, how precarious is their employment, how honestly they endeavour to earn their living, and to do then- duty in the state of life to which it has pleased Heaven to call them. Admit that there is some skill, some industry, some perseverance, in all this, not misdirected if promoting harm- less fancy and innocent mirth. in. DOWN WHITECHAPEL, FAR AWAY. IT is natural that a metropolis so gigantic as the Empress-city of Britain should set the fashion to its provincial kinsfolk. It is, I believe, a fact not very much controverted, that London habits, London manners and modes, London notions and London names are extensively copied, followed, and emulated in the provinces. There is scarcely a village, not to say a town in Great Britain where some worthy tradesman has not baptized his place of business London House, or the London Eepository, where he pretends to sell London porter, London hosiery, or London cutlery. There are few towns that do not number among their streets several whose appella- DOWN WHITECHAPEL, FAR AWAY. 33 tions are drawn from the street-lists of the London Post-Office Directory. Regent Streets, Bond Streets, St. James's Streets, Pall Malls, Drury Lanes, Strands, Fleet Streets, Ludgate Hills, Covent Gardens, Cheapsides, and Waterloo Places abound in great profusion throughout the whole of the United Kingdom. There is sometimes a ludicrous incongruity between the appearance, class, and species of street familiar in London, and the synonymous street presented in a country town. A man, for instance, is apt to be puzzled when he finds a little greasy cube of ill-favoured houses, resembling a bar of soap just marked for cutting into squares figured down as Belgrave Place or Wilton Crescent. He will not be quite prepared to recognise Cheapside in a series of basket- makers' cottages with small kitchen- gardens ; nor will a dirty thoroughfare, principally occupied by old clothes- vendors and marine-store-dealers, quite come up to his ideas of Bond Street or Regent Street. Islington composed of a long avenue of merchants' warehouses, each rejoicing in a plurality of stories, with gaping doors where there should be windows, and huge cranes from which perpetually balance sacks of meal or hogsheads of sugar after the manner of Mahomet's coffin creates in the mind of the London-bred Islingtonian a curious dissociation of ideas. And when he comes upon a Grosvenor Street, in the guise of a blind alley, or upon a Holborn fringed with pretty suburban villas, or a Piccadilly next to a range of pigsties, or a Fleet Street planted with flowering shrubs, he cannot fail to doubt whether a street is still a street * for a' that.' These topographical incongruities have lately been brought under my notice in the great commercial port of Liverpool. In Liverpool, which can show its suburbs and dependencies included a population not much under four hundred thou- sand souls, I found Pall Malls, Fleet Streets, Covent Gardens, Drury Lanes, Houndsditches, Islingtons, and other places, all with London names, and all with a most opinionated want of resemblance to their London sponsors. Islington I found to be not a district, but a single street, the site of several public- houses, one or two pawnbrokers', and numerous chandlers' shops. Fleet Street is without bustle, Drury Lane without dirt, and Covent Garden without an apple or an orange. Park Lane the very sound of which is suggestive of curly- wiggecl coachmen, high-stepping carriage-horses (jobbed mostly ; but such is life), silver-studded harness, luxurious D 34 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. carriages hung on feathery springs, ostrich feathers, diamonds, Danish dogs, blue ribbons, the ladies' mile, the Grenadier Guards, and the Duke of Somerset's coronet-tipped gas-lamps, the whole pomp, pride, and circumstance of our glorious aristocracy Park Lane I found to be filled with shops, pave- ment, and population ; and devoted to the vending of marine- stores, the purveying of fiery gin, the receipt of miscellaneous articles in pledge, and the boarding, lodging, and fleecing with a little hocussing, crimping, and kidnapping included of those who go down to the fcea in ships : in short, a West Coast Wapping. There is, however, no rule without an exception ; and I came ultimately upon a street, which, albeit possessing certain originalities of aspect and existence not to be found else- where, did nevertheless offer in its general character some- thing approaching a resemblance to the London highway from which it has drawn its name. Whoever built this street was evidently a man impressed with a sufficient idea of the general fitness of things. He must have been a travelled, or, at least, a well-read man ; and he evidently had a keen remembrance of that great London artery which stretches from Aldgate Pump to Mile End Gate, London, when he called that Liverpool street, Whitechapel. I am thankful to him for having done so ; for had the Liverpool Whitechapel not resembled in some measure the London Whitechapel, and thereby become exceptional, I should having walked Down Whitechapel Way, in London, one Saturday night in eighteen hundred and fifty-one not have walked down this Whitechapel Way (two hundred and twenty miles away) one Saturday night in eighteen hundred and fifty -three. Whitechapel in Lancashire is so far like Whitechapel in Middlesex, that it is passably dirty, moderately thronged by day, and inconveniently crowded by night ; is resorted to by a variety of persons of a suspicious nature, and by a consider- able number about whom there can be no suspicion at all : that, moreover, it has a kerb-stone market for the negotiation of fruit and small ware : that it is scoured by flying tribes of Bedouins, in the guise of peripatetic street vendors : that it is sprinkled with cheap tailoring establishments, cheap eating and coffee-houses, cheap places of public amusement, and finally, that it is glutted with gin-palaces, whisky-shops, taverns, and public-houses of every description. DOWN WHITECHAPEL, FAR AWAY. 35 Thus far the two streets run in concert, but they soon diverge. The Liverpool Whitechapel is intensely maritime (or what I may call 4 Dockish '), intensely Hibernian in its offshoots or side-streets almost wholly so intensely com- mercial, and during the daytime, not wholly unaristocratic ; for it is intersected in one part by Church Street, the Eden of the haberdashers' shops and the pet promenade of the beauty and fashion of the City of the Liver. Lord Street the proud branches off from it, full of grand shops, and the pavement of which is daily trodden by those interesting specimens of humanity, * hundred thousand pound men :' humble-minded millionnaires who disdain carriages in business hours, and in the humility of their wealth, condescend to pop at stray times into quaint little taverns, where they joke with the landlady, and ask for the l Mail ' or the ' Mercury ' after you have done with it, as though they were nothing more than wharfingers or entering clerks. Nor are these all the high connections Whitechapel in Liverpool can claim. At the upper end branches off a short thoroughfare, leading into Dale Street, likewise patronised by the magnates of Liverpool. At its extreme end, again, is the confluence of streets abutting on the stately London and North- Western Terminus in Lime Street, and on the great open space, where stands that really magnificent building, St. George's Hall. The consequence of all this is that there is a constant cross-stream of fashionables mingling with the rushing river of the profanum vulgus. It is half-past ten o'clock ; for the early-closing system on Saturdays, at least is not prevalent in Liverpool; and thousands have yet their purchases to make on Sunday morn- ing. Before we enter Whitechapel, glowing with gas flowing from enormous jets, we are attracted by an extra blaze of light, by a concourse of people, and by a confusion of tongues, over which one strident and resonant 'voice dominates ; all being gathered round the booth of Messrs. Misture and Fitt, to which booth we must turn aside for a moment. In the left hand centre of a piece of waste land, these gentle- men have boldly pitched among the potsherds, the dead cats, and broken bottles a monster marquee, gaily decorated with pink and white stripes and variegated flags. Here Messrs. Misture and Fitt have gone into the quack line of business, in a Bohemian or travelling manner. They are herb doctors, chiropodists, universal medicine vendors, veterinary prescri- D 2 36 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. "berg, and much more besides. A mob of men, women, and children are talking, screaming, laughing, and jesting around the temporary laboratory of these medical sages, before a long counter which creaks beneath a bountiful spread of nasty- looking preparations, pills, pots of ointment, bottles of sarsa- parilla, cases of herbs, blisters, plaisters, and boluses. The whole affair has the appearance of the stock in trade of half a dozen unsuccessful chemists and druggists, who had been burnt out or emigrated to the backwoods, or set up business in Canvas Town, and here clubbed the remainder of their goods as a last effort to sell off under prime cost. There are several gaily-decorated placards eulogistic of Misture's Epi- leptic Pills, and Fitt's Concentrated Essence of Peppermint. Fitt is haranguing his select auditory as we draw near. His style of eloquence is something beyond the old hocus- pocus diatribes of the old medical mountebanks. He is not so broad as Cheap Jack, not so lofty as Dulcamara, not so scientifically unintelligible as the quacks you see in the Champs Elysees or the Boulevard du Temple, in Paris. But he is astonishingly rapid ; and mingles with a little bit of sporting a snack of slang, and a few genteel anecdotes of the nobility and gentry. He has so fluent a delivery, such tick- ling jokes for the men and such sly leers for the ladies, that the former slap their legs and break forth into enthusiastic encomiums in the dialect of Tim Bobbin. The latter simper and blush delightfully. Some of his jokes apply forcibly to the personal appearance of a select few of his auditory, and provoke roars of laughter. A happy allusion to the neigh- bouring church-yard, being close to a doctor's shop, tells immensely. At the upper end of the drug-heaped counter the other partner, Misture hard-featured with a fox's face ; one of those men who will wear black clothes and white neckcloths, and who never can look respectable in them is silently but busily engaged in handing over divers packets of the medicines his partner has been praising to eager and nu- merous purchasers. I see through Misture and Fitt in a moment. Fitt is the volatile partner, the fine arts professor. Misture is the sound practical man of business. Misture is the careful builder, who lays the foundation and gets up the scaffolding : Fitt does the ornamental work and puts on the fancy touches. Do you not remember when Geoffrey Crayon and Buckthorne went to the bookseller's dinner, that the DOWN WHITECHAPEL, FAB AWAY. 37 latter pointed out the partner who attended to the carving, and the partner who attended to the jokes ? They are proto- types of Misture and Fitt. The busy throng tends Whitechapel way, and down White- chapel we must go. So great is the number of orange-sellers and oranges in Whitechapel, that it would seem as if the whole of one year's produce of St. Michael's and the Azores had been disgorged into the narrow street this Saturday night. The poor creatures who sell this fruit desperately ragged and destitute were formerly much harried and beset by the police, who in their over-zeal made descents and razzias upon them, put them to horrid rout and confusion, and made so many of them captives to their bows and spears (or batons), that the miserable creatures scarcely dared to venture into the light for grievous fear and trembling. They offered oranges in bye-places and secret corners, as if they had been smuggled merchandise, prohibited under annihilating penalties. Lat- terly, however, some benevolent persons took their case in hand ; and, demonstrating to the authorities that to obstruct a thoroughfare was not quite high treason, nor to offer an orange for sale was not quite sufficient to warrant a human creature being hunted like a wild beast, the dread taboo was taken off, and some small immunities were conceded to the army of orange-vendors. My Uncle's counting-houses, which abound here in White- ohapel, are all thronged to-night. As per flourishing gold letters on his door-jamb, he proposes to lend money on plate, jewellery, and valuables ; but he is not much troubled with plate, jewellery, or valuables on a Saturday night. If you enter one of these pawnshops they are called so plainly, without reticence or diffidence, hereabout and elbow your way through Yallambrosian thickets of wearing apparel and miscellaneous articles, you will observe these peculiarities in the internal economy of the avuncular life, at variance with London practice ; that the duplicates are not of card-board, but of paper having an appearance something between Dock- warrants and Twelfth-cake lottery-tickets, and that the front of each compartment of the counter is crossed by a stout wooden barrier ; whether for the convenience of the pledger to rest his elbows on while transacting business, or to restrain the said pledger from violently wresting from My Uncle's hands any article before he has legally redeemed it, I am un- able to say. Furthermore, it will be not without emotion that 38 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. you will become sensible that in very many of the pawnbrok- ing warehouses my Uncle is for the nonce transformed into my Aunt not simply figuratively, in the French sense but substantially. The person who unties your package, names the extent of the investment therein by way of loan, fills up the duplicate and hands you the cash is a Young Lady ; sharp-eyed, quick-witted, and not to be done by any means. I have said that my Uncle is troubled with few articles of any considerable value on Saturday nights. This is ordinarily the case ; but not unfrequently a young lady of an inflamed complexion bears down on my Uncle, laden with the spoils of some galleon from the Spanish Main; the watch, chain, trinkets, and clothes of some unfortunate sailor fresh from abroad, whom she has plundered. Sometimes this tight craft disposes successfully of her booty, and sheers off with all her prize-money, and with flying colours ; but occasionally, sus- picions being awakened and signals made to the Preventive, she is compelled to heave-to, and to tack, and to change her course, and even to proceed under convoy to a roadstead known as Bridewell ; the harbour-dues of which are so considerable, that an overhauling before a stipendiary magistrate, and a lengthened sojourn in a graving dock near Kirkdale gaol are absolutely necessary before she can get to sea again. Sometimes, again, a drunken sailor (they are every whit as apt to rob themselves as to be robbed) will drop in with a watch, or a gold thumb ring, or even the entire suit of clothes off his back to pawn. One offered a five-pound note in pledge on a Saturday night; upon which my Uncle considerately lent him (he was very far gone) five shillings taking care to ascertain to what ship he belonged and the next morning, to Jack's great joy and astonishment, returned him four pounds fifteen shillings. Here is a ' vault :' it has nothing to do with pallid death, It is, indeed, a chosen. rendezvous for 'life,' in Whitechapel such life as is comprised in spirituous jollity, and the convi- viality that is so nearly allied to delirium tremens. The vault is large enough to be the presence-chamber of a London gin- palace ; but lacks the gilding, plate-glass, and French polish, which are so handsomely thrown in with a London penny- worth of gin. The walls are soberly coloured ; the only mural decorations being certain and sundry oleaginous frescoes, due, perhaps, to the elbows and heads of customers reclining there- against. The bar-counter is very high, and there are no DOWN WHITECHAPEL, FAK AWAY. 39 enclosed bars or snuggeries ; but there is one unbroken line of shop-board. The vault is very full to-night. A party of American sailors in red flannel shirts, and bushy whiskers, and ear-rings, are liberally treating a select party of ladies and gentlemen ; hosts and guests being already much the worse for liquor. One mariner, to my personal knowledge, had been regaling for the last ten minutes on a series of ' glasses to follow,' of almost every exciseable fluid, taken without any relation to their chemical affinities or proper order of succession. lie is now reduced to that happy frame of mind, common, I am told, in some stages of Bacchic emotion, which leads him to believe, and to state (indistinctly), that though he has spent his last sixpence, it is ' awright ;' and that things generally must come round and be as satisfactory (in a rectified point of view) as a trivet. Next to the sailors and their guests are a knot of Irish labourers, gesticulating, quarrelling, and all but fighting, in their native manner, and according to the custom of their country. Next are ragged women, and mechanics, who have already spent, prospec- tively, up to the Friday of the next week's earnings. Next, and next, and next, are sailors, and Irish, and women, and mechanics, over and over again. We are arrested at the door by an episode of a domestic nature, which merits tarrying an instant to witness. A very broad Lancastrian chandler's-shop-keeper, speaking broad Lancashire, and of mature years, has been drinking in an ad- joining apartment with a Sergeant and a couple of recruits of one of Her Majesty's regiments of militia. Arrived at that happy state in which the celebrated Willie may reasonably be supposed to have been when he had finished brewing the peck of malt, it has occurred to this eccentric tradesman to slip on one of the recruit's scarlet jackets, and to represent to the partner of his joys (who, according to the Hymeneal Statute in that case made and provided, has * fetched ' him) that he has ' listed ;' at which she sheds abundant floods of tears, and beseeches him to ' cast t' red rag oif and coom awa.' ' Coom awa, Bobert, coom awa,' she passionately says, 4 yans nowt but jack-shappers (hangmen), yans nowt but " shepstering rads " (whatever can they be ?) coom awa ! The'll crop 'te pow, lad. They'll mak thee shouther arms, lad. Dunnago wi' 'em, Eobert.' But her adjurations are vain. Her husband who, however far gone he may be in liquor, is a long way too far North to 'list in reality maintains the impossibility of vio- 40 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. lating the engagement lie has recently entered into with Her Majesty the Queen. ' I'se geatten byounty, lass,' he repre- sents, 'an I mun go wi Seargent !' At length, deeming further expostulation useless, she abandons the cause ; ' Go thy ways, thou fool/ she exclaims ; ' Go thy ways and be hanged, thou Plump Mack /' with which last transcendant figure of rhetoric she sweeps into the street. Whether the appellation of ' Plump-Muck ' (pronounced ' ploomp-mook ') has touched some hidden chord in her husband's bosom, or whether the bent of his inebriety takes suddenly another di- rection, I could not discover, but he presently falls into a fit of grievous weeping, and to use his own words. ' whips oif t' skycarlet rag ' and follows his spouse into Whitechapel, into which we emerge likewise. More gas, more music, and more crowds. Wax-work shows where Monsieur Kossuth, Queen Elizabeth, and Gleeson Wilson the murderer, may be seen for the small charge of one penny. Baffles for fancy articles on the Sea-side bazaar plan, with results nearly as profitable. Panoramas of Versailles, the Himalaya Mountains, and the City of Canton. Shooting Galleries (down cellar-steps), Dissolving Views, Dancing and Singing Saloons. These, with shops for the sale of chandlery, slop-clothing, hosiery, grocery, seamen's bedding, ships' stores, and cheap literature (among which, I grieve to say it, the blood-and-thunder school preponderates), makeup the rest of \Vhitechapel. It is the same in the continuation thereof : Paradise Street, which, however, boasts in addition a gigantic building known as the Colosseum : once used as a chapel, and with much of its original ecclesiastical appearance remaining ; but now a Singing Saloon, or a Tavern Concert, crowded to the ceiling. As we wander up and down the crowded, steaming thorough- fare, we catch strange glimpses occasionally of narrow streets. Some occupied by lofty frowning warehouses ; others tenanted by whole colonies of Irish ; ragged, barefooted, destitute ; who lurk in garrets and swelter in back rooms, and crouch in those hideous, crowded, filthy, underground cellars, which are the marvel and the shame of Liverpool warehouses and cellars, cellars and warehouses without end wealth, the result of great commercial intelligence, rising up proudly amidst misery, hunger, and soul-killing ignorance. If I may be allowed to make a parting remark concerning the Lancashire Whitechapel, it is with reference to its elasticity. JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. 41 All the rags and wretchedness, all the huckstering merchan- dise, seem to possess a facility for expanding into gigantic com- merce and boundless wealth. Not a cobbler's stall, a petty chandler's shop, but seems ready to undertake anything in the wholesale way at a moment's notice, and to contract for the supply of the Militia with boots and shoes, or the British navy with salt beef and tobacco immediately. Hucksters change with wonderful rapidity into provision dealers, brokers into salesmen, small shopkeepers into proprietors of monster em- poriums. The very destitute Irish in this city of all cities of commerce, (the Great Liverpool runs even London hard in matter of fast trading !) after a preliminary apprenticeship to the begging and hawking business, become speculators and contractors on a surprising scale. So may Whitechapel flourish all the year round, I say : may its dirt, when I next see it, be changed to gold, and its rags to fine linen, and its adjoining cellars to palaces. Although, to be sure, the one disastrous thing likely is, that, when the work of transmutation is completed, other rags, and cellars, and dirt, will take the place of what has been changed to fine linen, palaces, and gold. The ball must roll, and something must be undermost. IV. JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. COMING from Greenwich or Blackwall, radiant with 'Bad- minton,' or ' Cider cup ;' or, perchance, coming home very satiated and sea-sick from foreign parts, tired, jaded, used-up, as a man is apt to be under such circumstances, the Pool always pleases, enlivens, interests me. I pull out the trumpet- stop of my organ of veneration ; my form dilates with the tall spars around me ; I lose all count of the wonders of the lands I have seen, of the coming cares and troubles the worrying and bickering awaiting me, perhaps, in that remorseless, inevitable London yonder. I forget them all in the Pool. If I have a foreigner with me, so much the better. ' Not in crimson- trousered soldiery,' I cry, ' oh ! Louis or Alphonse not in the constant shouldering of arms, and the drumming that never ceases, not in orders of the day, or vexatious pass- ports, are the glories of Britain inscribed. See them in that 42 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. interminable forest of masts, the red sun lighting up the cupolas of Greenwich, the tarry hulls, the patched sails, the laden hay-boats, the trim wherries, the inky waters of the Pool. Bead them in the cobweb rigging ; watch them curling from the short pipes of red-capped mariners lounging on the bul- warks of timber ships ! Ships upon ships, masts everywhere, even in the far-off country, among trees and churches ; the commerce of the world jammed up between these cumbered wharves, and overflowing into these narrow creeks !' I propose to treat, as shortly as I can consistently with ac- curacy, of maritime London, and of 'Jack' (alluding, under that cognomen, to the general ' seafaring ' class) alive in London. ' Jack ' is * alive,' to my knowledge and experience, in East Smithneld, and in and about all the Docks ; in Poplar, Lime- house, Eotherhithe, Shad well, Wapping, Bermondsey, and the Island of Dogs. He is feebly alive in Fenchurch Street and the Minories ; but he shows special and vigorous symptoms of vitality in Katcliffe Highway. If it interest you at all to see him alive, and to see how he lives, we will explore, for some half-hour or so, this very muddy, tarry, salt-water-smelling portion of the metropolis. You can get to RatclifFe Highway through the Minories : you may attain it by a devious route through \Vhitechapel and Mile End New Town ; but the way / go, is from London Bridge, down Thames Street, and through the Tower, in order to come gradually upon Jack alive, and to pick up specimens of his saline existence bit by bit. London Bridge is densely crowded, as it has been, is, and always will be, I suppose. The wheels of the heavy waggons, laden with bales and barrels, creak and moan piteously ; while the passengers, who are always certain of being too late (and never are) for a train on the South-Eastern Kail way, goad cab- men into performing frantic pas de deux with their bewildered horses. The sportive bullocks, too, the gigs, knackers' carts, sheep, pigs, Barclay's drays, and cohorts of foot-passengers, enliven the crowded scene. Comfortably corn-crushed, jostled, and dust-blinded, I descend the flight of stairs on the right of the King William Street side of the bridge. I have but to follow my nose along Thames Street to Batcliffe ; and I follow it. I elbow my way through a compact mass of labourers, porters, sailors, fish- women, and spruce clerks, with their bill books secured by a JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. lo leather-covered chain round their waists. Room there, for a hot sugar-broker tearing by, towards the Exchange, bursting with a recent bargain ! Eoom for a spruce captain (he had his boots cleaned by one of the ' brigade ' opposite Billingsgate Market) in an irreproachable state of clean-shirtedriess, navy- blue-broadclothedness and chinmey-pot-hattedness ! He sets his big silver watch at every church, and dusts his boots with an undoubted bandanna. He has an appointment, doubtless, at Garraway's or^the Jerusalem Coffee House, with his owner or broker. A gush of fish, stale and fresh, stretches across Thames Street, as I near Billingsgate Market. I turn aside for a moment, and enter the market. Business is over ; and the male and female purveyors of the treasures of the deep solace themselves with pipes and jovial converse. Jack is getting more lively all through Thames Street and Tower Street, and is alarmingly vital when I emerge on Tower Hill. A row of foreign mariners pass me, seven abreast: swarthy, ear-ringed, black-bearded varlets in red shirts, light- blue trousers, and with sashes round their waists. Part of the crew of a Sardinian brig, probably. They have all their arms round each other's necks ; yet I cannot help thinking that they look somewhat ' knifey,' ' stilettoey.' I hope I may be mistaken, but I am afraid that it would be odds were you to put an indefinite quantity of rum into them, they would put a few inches of steel into you. But I enter the Tower postern, and am in another London the military metropolis at once. Yery curious and wonderful are these old gray towers, these crumbling walls, these rotting portcullises, so close to the business-like brick- and-mortar of St. Katherine's Dock House hard by. What has the ' Devilin Tower,' the Scavenger's Daughter,' the * Stone Kitchen,' to do with wholesale grocers, ship-chandlers, and outfitting warehouses ? Is there not something jarring, discordant, in that grim, four-turreted old fortalice, frowning 011 the quiet corn and coal-carrying vessels in the pool ? What do the ' thousand years of war ' so close to the ' thousand years of peace ?' Is not the whole sombre, lowering old pile, a huge anachronism? Julius Caesar, William the Third, and the Docks ! Wharves covered with tubs of peaceful palm-oil, and dusky soldiers sauntering on narrow platforms, from whence the black mouths of honeycombed old guns grin (toothless, haply) into peaceful dwelling-houses. The dried- 44 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. up moat, the "old rooms, wall-inscribed with the overflowings of weary hearts ; the weazen-faced old warders, with their strange, gone-by costume ; the dinted armour, and rusted headman's axe ; all tell with the vacant space on the Green, where the four posts of the scaffold stood, and the shabby little church, where lie Derwentwater and Lovat, Anne Boleyn and Northumberland, the innocent and the guilty, the dupers and the duped of things that ham been, thank God ! I pass a lane where the soldiers live (why should their wives necessarily be slatterns, their children dirty, and they themselves alternately in a state of shirt-sleeves, beer and tobacco, or one of pipe-clay, red blanketing, and mechanical stolidity, I wonder ?) and ask an artilleryman on guard where a door of egress is to be found. He ' dwoan't know :' of course not. Soldiers never do know. It isn't in the articles of war, or the Queen's regulations. Still, I think my friend in the blue coat, and with the shaving-brush stuck at the top of his shako, would be rather more useful in guarding a fortress, if he knew the way into and the way out of it- Patience, ' trying back,' and the expenditure of five minutes, at last bring me out by another postern, leading on to Tower Hill the less, East Smithfield, St. Katherine's Docks, and the Mint ; very nearly opposite is a narrow street, where a four- oared cutter, in the middle of the pavement, in progress of receiving an outer coat of tar and an inner one of green paint, suggests to me that Jack is decidedly alive in this vicinity ; while, closely adjacent, a monster ' union jack,' sloping from the first-floor window of an unpretending little house, announces the whereabouts of the ' Royal Naval Rendezvous.' You have perhaps heard of it more frequently as the house of reception for the ' Tower Tender.' The Rendezvous, and the Tender too, had a jovial season of it in the war-time, when the press was hot, and civilians were converted into ' volunteers ' for the naval service, by rough compulsion. The neighbour- hood swarmed with little ' publics,' embellished with cartoons of the beatified state of Jack, when alive in the navy. Jack was continually drinking grog with the port-admiral, or executing hornpipes with the first-lieutenant. The only labour imposed on him (pictorially) was the slaying half a dozen Frenchmen occasionally before breakfast ; for which a grateful country rewarded him with hecatombs of dollars. At home, he was represented frying gold watches, and lighting pipes with five pound notes. Love, liquor, and glory ! King JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. 45 and country! Magnificent bounty, &c., &c., &c. But the picture has two sides ; for Jack hung back sometimes, prefer- ring to fry watches in the merchant service. A grateful country pressed him. He ran away from captivity ; a grateful country flogged him. He mutinied ; a grateful country hanged him. Whether it was the flogging, or the hanging, or the scurvy, or the French bullets, or the prisons at Verdun and Brest, I won't be certain ; but Jack became at last quite a scarce article. So the Eoyal Naval Eendezvous, and the Tower Tender were obliged to content themselves with the sweepings of the prisons thieves, forgers, murderers, and the like. These even grew scarce ; and a grateful country pressed every- body she could lay her hands on. * Food for powder ' was wanted 'mortal men' good enough to 'fill a pit,' must be had. Quiet citizens, cripples, old men were pressed. Appren- tices showed their indentures, citizens their freedom, in vain. Britannia must have men. People would come home from China or Honolulu, and fall into the clutches of the press- gang five minutes after they had set foot on land. Bags of money would be found on posts on Tower Hill, left there by persons who had been pressed unawares. People would leave public-house parlours to see what sort of a night it was, and never be seen or heard of again. I remember, even, hearing from my nurse, during childhood, a ghostly legend of how the Lord Chancellor, going over Tower Hill one night with the great seal in a carpet-bag, and ' disguised in liquor ' after a dinner at Guildhall, was kidnapped by a press-gang, sent on board the Tower Tender, and not released until three months afterwards, when he was discovered on board the ' Catspaw ' frigate, in the Toulon fleet, scraping the mizen-mast, under the cat of a boatswain's mate. Of course I won't be answer- able for the veracity of the story ; but we scarcely need its confirmation to find plenty of reasons to bless those glorious good old times when George the Third was king. Times are changed with the Eendezvous now. Sailors it still craves; but good ones A. B.'s ; not raffish gaol-birds and useless landsmen. The A. B.'s are not so plentiful, though the times are so peaceful. The A. B.'s have heard of the ' cat ;' and they know what ' holystoning ' and ' black- listing' means. There is a stalwart A. B., I watch, reading a placard in the window of the Eendezvous, stating that the ' Burster,' one hundred and twenty guns, fitting at Plymouth, wants some able-bodied seamen. ' Catch a weasel asleep,' 46 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. $ays the A. B., walking on. He belongs to the ' Chutnagore,' A 1, tinder engagement to sail for Madras, and would rather not have anything to do with the ' Burster.' A weather-beaten old quarter-master stands on the steps of the Eendezvous, and eyes the A. B. wistfully. The A. B. is the sort of man Britannia wants just now. So are those three black-whiskered fellows, swaggering along with [& Yankee skipper, with whom they have just signed articles for a voyage to Boston, in the ' Peleg Whittle ;' Coon, master. Poor old quarter-master ! give him but his ' four-and-twenty stout young fellows,' his beloved press-gang ; and the ' Chut- nagore ' would go one A. B. short to sea ; while Captain Coon would vainly lament the loss of three of the crew of the * Peleg Whittle.' The ' Burster ' is very short of hands ; but he has bagged very few A. B.'s yet. See, a recruit offers ; a lanky lad in a torn jacket, with an air of something like ragged respectability about him ! He wants to ' go to sea.' The quarter-master laughs at him repulses him. The boy has, ten to one, run away from school or from home, with that vague indefinite idea of ' going to sea ' in his mind. To sea, indeed ! He has prowled about the docks, vainly impor- tuned captains, owners, seamen, anybody, with his request. Nobody will have anything to do with him. The greatest luck in store for him would be the offer of a cabin-boy's berth on board a collier, where the captain would regale him with the convivial crowbar and the festive ropes-end, when- ever the caprice seized him. Going to sea ! Ah, my young friend ! trudge home to Dr. Broomback's seminary never mind the thrashing explain to your young friends, impressed as you have been with a mania for ' running away and going to sea,' that it is one thing to talk about doing a thing, and another to do it ; that a ragged little landsman is worse than useless aboard ship ; and that there are ten chances to one even against his ever being allowed to put his foot on ship- board. I leave the Eoyal Naval Eendezvous just as a dissolute Norwegian stops to read the c Burster ' placard. Now, I turn past the Mint, and past the soldiers on guard there, and pursue the course of a narrow little street leading towards the Docks. Here, Jack leaps into great life. Ship-chandlers, ship- grocers, biscuit-bakers, sail-makers, outfitting warehouses, occupy the shops on either side. Up a little court is a nau- JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. 47 tical day-school for teaching navigation. There is a book- stall, 011 which lie the ' Seaman's Manual,' the 6 Shipmaster's Assistant,' and Hamilton Moore's * Navigation.' There is a nautical instrument maker's, where chronometers, quadrants, and sextants are kept, and blank log-books are sold. The stationers display forms for manifests, bills of lading, and charter-parties. Every article vended has some connection with those who go down to the sea in ships. When we enter St. George's Street, where there are shops on one side of the way, and St. Katherine's Dock warehouses on the other, Jack becomes tremendously alive on the pave- ment. Jack from India and China, very sunburnt, and smoking Trichinopoly cheroots thin cigars with a reed passed through them, and nearly a foot long. American Jack, in a red worsted shirt, and chewing indefatigably. Swedish Jack, smelling of tallow and turpentine, but amazingly good-natured, and unaffectedly polite. Italian Jack, shivering. German Jack, with a light-blue jacket and yellow trousers, stolid and smoky ; Greek Jack, voluble in petticoats, and long boots. Grimy seamen from colliers ; smart, taut men, from Green's or Wigram's splendid East India ships ; mates in spruce jackets, and gold-laced caps, puffing prime Havannahs. Lastly, the real unadulterated English Jack, with the inimitable roll, the unapproachable hitch, the unsurpassable flowers of language. The pancake hat stuck at the back of the head, the neckerchief passed through a wedding-ring, the flaring yellow silk handkerchief; the whole unmistakeable costume and demeanour so unlike the stage sailor, so unlike the pictorial sailor so like only what it really is. This is the busiest portion of the day, and the Highway is crowded. Enthusiasts would perhaps be disappointed at the woful lack of nautical vernacular prevalent with Jack. He is not continually shivering his timbers ; neither is he always requesting you to stand by and belay; to dowse the lee- scuppers, or to splice the main-brace. The doors of the public-houses disgorge great crowds of mariners ; nor are there wanting taverns and eating-houses, where the sailors of different nations may be accommodated. Here is a ' Deutsches Gasthaus,' a Prussian ' Bierhalle' a real * Norwegian House.' Stay! Here we are at the Central Dock gates, and, among a crowd of sailors, hurrying in and out, swarm forth hordes of Dock labourers to their dinner. 48 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. A very queer company, indeed ; ' navvies,' seafaring men, and individuals of equivocal dress and looks, who have probably taken to the ' two shillings ' or half-crown a day awarded for Dock toil, as a last refuge from inevitable starva- tion. Discharged policemen, ruined medical students, clerks who have lost their characters, Polish and German refugees, might be found, I opine, in those squalid ranks. It is all equality now, however. The college-bred youth, the educated man, must toil in common with the navvy and the tramp. They seem contented enough, eating their poor meals, and puffing at the never-failing pipe with great gusto. Poor and almost destitute as these men are, they can yet obtain a species of delusive credit a credit by which they are ultimately defrauded. Crafty victuallers will advance them beer and food on the security of their daily wage, which they them- selves secure from the foremen. They exact, of course, an enormous interest. It is, after all, the old abuse, the old Tommy-shop nuisance the 'infamous truck system' the iniquitous custom of paying the labourers at the public- house, and the mechanic late on the Saturday night. I have not time to enter the Docks just now ; and plunge further into the Babel of Batcliffe Highway. Jack is. alive everywhere by this time. A class of persons remarkably lively in connection with him, are the Jews. For Jack are these grand Jewish outfitting warehouses alone intended. For his sole use and benefit are the swinging lamps, the hammocks and bedding, the code of signal pocket-hand- kerchiefs, the dreadnought coats, sou-wester hats, telescopes, checked shirts, pilot jackets, case bottles, and multifarious odds and ends required by the mariner. For Jack does Meshech manufacture the delusive jewellery ; while Shadrach vaunts the watch that has no works ; and Abednego con- fidentially proposes advances of cash on wages-notes. Jewry is alive, as well as Jack, in Eatcliffe Highway. You may call that dingy little cabin of a shop, small ; but, bless you ! they would fit out a seventy-four in ten minutes, with every- thing wanted, from a spanker boom to a bottle of Harvey's Sauce. For purposes marine, they sell everything ; biscuits by sacksfull, bales of dreadnoughts, miles of rope, infinities of fishing-tackle, shaving-tackle, running-tackle, spars, sex- tants, sea-chests, and hundreds of other articles. Jewry will even supply you with sailors ; will man vessels for you, from a cock-boat to an Indiamaii. Jewry has a capital black cook JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. 11) inside. A third mate at two minutes' notice. A steward in the twinkling- of a handspike. Topmast men in any quant itv, and at immediate call. A strange sound half human, half ornithological br< on the ear above the turmoil of the crowded street. I follow a swarthy mariner, who holds a cage, muffled in a hand- kerchief in his hand, a few yards, until he enters a large and handsome shop, kept also by a child of Israel, and which literally swarms with parrots, cockatoos, and macaws. Here they are, in every variety of gorgeous plumage and curvature of beak : with their wicked-looking, bead-like eyes and crested heads ; screaming, croaking, yelling, swearing, laughing, sing- ing, drawing corks, and winding up clocks, with frantic energy ! Most of these birds come from South America and the coast of Africa. Jack generally brings home one or two as his own private venture, selling it in London for a sum varying from thirty to forty shillings. I am sorry to have to record that a parrot which can swear well, is more remunera- tive to Jack than a non-juring bird. A parrot which is accomplished enough to rap out half a dozen round oaths in a breath, will fetch you fifty shillings, perhaps. In this shop, also, are stuffed humming-birds, ivory chessmen, strange shells, and a miscellaneous collection of those foreign odds and ends, called ' curiosities.' Jack is very lively here with the rabbinical ornithologist. He has just come from the Gold Coast in a man-of-war, the captain of which, in con- sideration of the good conduct of the crew while on the station, had permitted each man before the mast to bring as many parrots home with him as he liked. And they did bring a great many, Jack says so many, that the vessel be- came at last like a ship full of women; the birds creating such an astonishing variety of discordant noises, that the men were, in self defence, obliged to let some two or three hundred of them (they didn't keep count of fifty or so) loose. Hundreds, however, came safe home ; and Jack has two or three to dis- pose of. They whistle hornpipes beautifully. I leave him still haggling with the ornithologist, and triumphantly elicit- ing a miniature ' Joe Bee's Vocabulary of Slang ' from the largest of his birds. You are not to suppose, gentle reader, that the population of Eatcliffe is destitute of an admixture of the fairer portion of the creation. Jack has his Jill in St. George's Street, Cable Street, Back Lane, and the Commercial Road. Jill is 50 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. inclined to corpulence ; if it were not libellous, I could hint a suspicion that Jill is not unaddicted to the use of spirituous liquors. Jill wears a silk handkerchief round her neck, as Jack does ; like him, too, she rolls, occasionally ; I believe, smokes, frequently ; I am afraid, swears, occasionally. Jack is a cosmopolite here to-day, gone to-morrow; but Jill is peculiar to maritime London. She nails her colours to the mast of Katcliffe. Jill has her good points, though she does scold a little, and fight a little, and drink a little. She is just what Mr. Thomas Dibdin has depicted her, and nothing more or less. She takes care of Jack's tobacco-box ; his trousers she washes, and his grog, too, she makes ; and if he enacts occasionally the part of a maritime Giovanni, promising to walk in the Mall with Susan of Deptford, and likewise with Sal, she only upbraids him with a tear. I wish the words of all songs had as much sense and as much truth in them as Mr. Dibdiii's have. A hackney-coach (the very last hackney-coach, I verily believe, in London, and the one, moreover, which my Irish maid-of-all-work always manages to fetch me when I send her for a cab) a hackney-coach, I say, jolts by, filled inside and out ! Jack is going to be married. I don't think I am mis-stating or exaggerating the case, when I say that the whole party bride, bridegroom, bridesmaids, bridesmen, coachman and all are considerably the worse for liquor. Is this as it should be ? Ah, poor Jack ! And I have occasion to say 'Poor Jack!' a good many times in the course of my perambulations. It is my personal opinion that Jack is robbed that he is seduced into extra- vagance, hoodwinked into spendthrift and dissolute habits. There is no earthly reason why Jack should not save money out of his wages ; why he should never have a watch without frying it, nor a five-pound note without lighting his pipe with it. It cannot be indispensable that he should be con- tinually kept * alive ' with gin ; that he should have no com- panions save profligate women, no amusements save low dancing-saloons and roaring taverns. The sailor has a strong religious and moral bias. He scorns and loathes deceit, dishonesty, and injustice, innately. He is often a profligate, and a drunkard, and a swearer (I will not say blasphemer), because abominable and vicious customs make him so ; because, ill-cared for on board ship, he no sooner lands than he becomes the prey of the infamous harpies who infest JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. f)l maritime London. He is robbed by outfitters (I particnl neither Jew nor Gentile, for there are six of one and half a dozen of the other) ; he is robbed by the tavern-keepers, the crimps, and the boarding-masters. lie is robbed by his associates, robbed in business, robbed in amusement. * Jack ' is fair game to everybody. The conductors of that admirable institution, the Sailors' Home, I understand, are doing their best to alleviate the evils I have lightly, but very lightly, touched upon. Jack is alive, but not with an unwholesome galvanic vitality, in the Home. He is well fed, well treated, and well cared for, generally ; moreover, he is not wronged. The tailor who makes his clothes, and the landlord who sells him his beer, and the association that board him, do not con- spire to rob him. The only shoal the managers of the Sailors' Home have to steer clear of, is the danger, of in- culcating the idea among sailors, that the institution has anything of a gratuitous or eleemosynary element in its construction. Sailors are high-spirited and eminently inde- pendent in feeling. I have come by this time to the end of the straggling series of broad and narrow thoroughfares, which, under the names of East Smithfield, St. George's Street, Upper Shadwell Street, and Cock Hill, all form part, in the aggregate, of Eatcliffe Highway. I stand on the threshold of the mysterious region comprising, in its limits, Shadwell, Poplar, and Limehouse. To my left, some two miles distant, is Stepney, to which parish all children born at sea are, traditionally, said to be chargeable. No longer are there continued streets ' blocks,' as the Americans call them of houses. There are swampy fields and quaggy lanes, and queer little public-houses like ship- cuddies, transplanted bodily from East Indiamen, and which have taken root here. The * Cat and Fiddle ' is a waterman's house 'jolly young watermen,' I am afraid, no more. At the ' Bear and Harp ' so the placard informs me is held the 'Master Mariners' Club.' Shipbuilders' yards start suddenly upon me ships in full sail bear down on me through quiet lanes ; lofty masts loom spectrally among the quiet graves in the churchyard. In the church yonder, where the union-jack flies at the steeple, there are slabs com- memorating the bequests of charitable master- mariners, dead years ago ; of an admiral's widow, who built an organ ; of the six poor women, who are to be yearly relieved as a thank- E 2 52 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. offering for the release of some dead and gone Levant trader ' from captyvitie among the Tnrkes in Algeeres.' In the grave- yards, scores of bygone sea-captains, their wives and children, shipwrights, ropemakers, of the olden time, dead pursers, and ship-chandlers, sleep quietly. They have compasses and sextants, and ships in full sail, sculptured on their moss- grown tombs. The wind howls no more, nor the waves roar now for them. Gone aloft, I hope, most of them ! though Seth Slipcheese, the great ship-contractor, who sold terribly weevilly biscuit, and salted horse for beef, sleeps under that substantial brick tomb yonder : while beneath the square stone slab with the sculptured skull and hour-glass, old Martin Flibuster may have his resting-place. He was called ' captain,' nobody knew why ; he swore terribly ; he had strange foreign trinkets and gold doubloons hanging to his watch-chain, and told wild stories of parboiled Indians, and Spanish Dons, with their ears and noses slit. What matters it now if he did sail with Captain Kidd, and scuttle the ' Ellen and Mary/ with all hands aboard? He died in his bed, and who shall say, impenitent ? The old sea-captains and traders connected with the [sea have still their abiding places in quiet, cosy little cottages about here, mostly tenements, with green doors and bow- windows, and with a summer-house perched a-top, where they can twist a flag on festive occasions, and enjoy their grog and tobacco on quiet summer evenings. The wild mania for building the lath-and-plaster, stucco-palace, Cock- ney-Corinthian frenzy, has not yet extended to Limehouse, and the old ' salts ' have elbow-room. I must turn back here, however; for it is nearly four o'clock, and I shall be too late else for a peep into the Docks. The Docks ! What a flood of recollections bursts through the sluice-gates of my mind, as I gaze on the huge range of warehouses, the swarms of labourers, the crowd of ships ! Little as many of us know of maritime London, and of the habits of Jack alive, we have all been to the Docks, once in our lives at least. Was it to see that wonderful seafaring relation of ours who was always going out to the Cape with a magnificent outfit, and who always returned, Yanderdecken- like, without having doubled it being also minus shoes and stockings, and bringing home, as a species of atonement- offering, the backbone of a shark ? Was it to dine on board the ' Abercrombie, Jenkinson, 3 of I don't know how many JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. r 53 hundred tons burden, which went out to Sydney with emi- grants, and foundered in Algoa Bay? \Vas it with that never-to-be-forgotten tasting-order for twelve pipes, sixteen hogsheads, twelve barrels, of rare ports and sherries, when coopers rushed about with candles in cleft sticks, running gimlets into casks, and pouring out rich wines into sawdust like water ? When we ate biscuits, and rinsed our mouths scientifically, and reproached our companions with being up- roarious ; but coming out (perfectly sober, of course), could not be prevented from addressing the populace on general subjects, and repeatedly volunteering the declaration (with our hat on the back of our head and the tie of our cravat like a bag -wig) that we were ' All Eight !' I remember, as a child, always asking myself how the ships got into dock ; a question rapidly followed by alarming incerti- tude as to how they got out. I don't think I know much more about the matter now, though I listen attentively to a pilot- coat and scarred face, who tells me all about it. Pilot-coat points to the warehouses, dilates on the enormous wells those gigantic brick-work shells contain ; shows me sugar-bags, coifee-bags, tea-chests, rice-bags, tubs of tallow, casks of palm- oil. Pilot-coat has been everywhere, and every voyage has added a fresh scar to his face. He has been to sea since he was no higher than ' that ' pointing to a stump. Went out in a convict-ship ; wrecked off St. Helena. Went out to Val- paraiso ; had a fever. Went out to Alexandria ; had the plague. Went out to Mobile ; wrecked. Went out to Ja- maica ; fell down the hatchway, and broke his collar-bone. Deserted into an American liner; thence into an Australian emigrant ship ; ran away at Sydney ; drove bullocks in the bush ; entered for Bombay ; entered the Indian navy ; was wrecked off the coast of Coromandel ; was nearly killed with a Malay creese. Been in a South-sea whaler, a Greenland whaler, a South Shields collier, and a Shoreham mackerel boat. Who could refuse the ' drop of summut ' to an ancient mariner, who has such a tale to tell, were it only to curtail the exuberance of his narration ? And it is, and always has been, my private opinion, that if the ' wedding guest ' had given the real ' ancient mariner ' sixpence for a , * drop of summut,' he would have had the pith of his story out of him in no time, whereby, though we should have lost an exqui- site poem, the ' wedding guest ' would not have been so unsufferably bored as he undoubtedly was, and some of 54 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. us would have known better, perhaps, what the story was about. You have your choice of Docks in this wonderful maritime London. The St. Katherine's Docks, the London, the West India Docks lie close together ; while, if you follow the Com- mercial Eoad, the East India Docks lie close before you, as the Commercial Docks do after going through the Thames Tunnel. There are numerous inlets, moreover, and basins, and diy docks : go where you will, the view begins or ends with the inevitable ships. Tarry with me for a moment in the Isle of Dogs, and step on board this huge East Indiaman. She is as big as a man- of-war, and as clean as a Dutch door-step. Such a bustle as is going on inside, and about her, nevertheless ! She is under engagement to the ' Honourable Company ' to sail in three days' time ; and her crew will have a tidy three days' work. There are horsey pigs, bullocks, being hoisted on board ; there are sheep in the launch, and ducks and geese in the long-boats. French rolls can be baked on board, and a perfect kitchen-garden maintained foreward. Legions of stores are being taken on board. Mrs. Colonel Chutney 's grand piano ; old Mr. Mango's (of the civil service) hookahs and black servants ; harness, saddlery, and sporting tackle for Lieutenant Griffin of the Bombay cavalry. And there are spruce young cadets whose means do not permit them to go by the overland route, and steady-going civil and military servants of the Company, going out after furlough, and who do not object to a four months' sea-voyage. And there are black Ayahs, and Hookabadars, and Lascars, poor, bewildered, shivering, brown-faced Orientals, staring at everything around them, as if they had not quite got over their astonishment yet at the marvels of Frangistan. I wonder whether the comparison is unfavourable to us in their Brahminical minds, between the cold black swampy Isle of Dogs, the inky water, the slimy hulls, the squalid labourers, the rain and sleet ; and the hot sun and yellow sands of Calcutta ; the blue water, and dark maiden, with her water-pitcher on her head ; the sacred Ganges, the rich dresses, stately elephants, half-naked Sircars of Hindostan ; the rice and arrack, the paddy-fields and bungalows, the punkato, palankeen, and yellow streak of caste of Bengal the beloved ! Perhaps. Passengers are coming aboard the Indiaman, old stagers wrangling as to the security of their standing bed-places, JACK ALIVE IN LONDON. 55 and young ladies consigned to the Indian matrimonial market, delightfully surprised and confused at everything. The potent captain of the ship is at the Jerusalem Coffee-house, or busy with his brokers ; but the mates are hard at work, bawling, commanding, and counter-commanding. Jack is alive, above, below, aloft, and in the hold, as usual, shoul- dering casks as though they were pint pots, and hoisting horses about manfully. Shall we leave the Isle of Dogs, and glance at the West India Docks for a moment ? Plenty to see here at all events. Eice, sugar, pepper, tobacco; desks saturated quite brown with syrup and molasses, just as the planks of a whaling ship are slippery. Jack, in a saccharine state, strongly perfumed with coffee-berries. Black Jack, very woolly-headed, and ivory- grindered, cooking, fiddling, and singing, as it seems the nature of Black Jack to cook, fiddle, and sing. Where the union-jack flies, Nigger Jack is well treated. English sailors do not disdain to drink with him, work with him, and sing with him. Take a wherry, however, to that American clipper, with the tall masts, and the fall man for skipper, and you will hear a different tale. Beneath the star-spangled ban- ner, the allowance of halfpence for Nigger Jacks decreases wo- fully, while that of kicks increases in an alarming proportion. I would rather not be a black man on board an American ship. In the London Docks we have a wonderful mixture of the ships of all nations ; while on a Sunday the masts are dressed out with a very kaleidoscope of variegated ensigns. Over the ship's side lounge stunted Swedes and Danes, and ole- aginous Eussians ; while in another, the nimble Gaul, faithful to the traditions of his cuisine, is busy scraping carrots for a pot aufeu. Not in one visit not in two could you, O reader ! pene- trate into a tithe of the mysteries of maritime London ; not in half a dozen papers could I give you a complete description of Jack alive in London. We might wander through the dirty mazes of Wapping, glancing at the queer, disused old stairs, and admiring the admirable mixture of rotting boats, tarry cable, shell-fish, mud, and bad characters, which is there conglomerated. We could study Jack alive in the hostelries, where, by night, in rooms the walls of which are decorated with verdant landscapes, he dances to the notes of the enli- vening fiddle ; we might follow him in his uneven wanderings, sympathise with him when he has lost his register ticket, 56 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. denounce the Jews and crimps who rob him. Let us hope- that Jack's life will be amended with the times in which we are fortunate enough to live ; and that those who have the power and the means, may not long want the inclination to stretch forth a helping hand to him. Eatcliffe and Shad well, Gable Street and Back Lane, maybe very curious in their internal economy, and very picturesque in their dirt; but it cannot be a matter of necessity that those who toil so hard., and contribute in so great a degree to our grandeur and pros- perity, should be so unprotected and so little cared for. V. THINGS DEPARTED. I USE the parlour, I am not ashamed to say it, of the ' Blue Pigeon.' There was an attempt, some months since, headed, I believe, by that self-educated young jackanapes, Squrrel, to prevail on the landlord to change the appellation of ' parlour ' into ' coifee-room ;' to substitute horsehair-covered benches for the Windsor chairs ; to take the sand off the floor, and the tobacco-stoppers off the table. / opposed it. Another per- son had the impudence to propose the introduction of a horribly seditious publication, which he called a liberal news- paper. I opposed it. So I did the anarchical proposition to rescind our standing order, that any gentleman smoking a cigar instead of a pipe, on club nights, should be fined a crown bowl of punch. From this you will, perhaps, Sir, infer that I am a Conservative. Perhaps I am. I have my own opinions about Catholic Emancipation, Parliamentary Eeform, and the Corn Laws. I have nothing to do with politics, nor politics with rne y just now ; but I will tell you what object I have in address- ing you. I can't help thinking, coming home from the club, how curiously we adapt ourselves to the changes that are daily taking place around us ; how, one by one, old habits and old customs die away, and we go about our business as unconcernedly as though they never had been. Almost the youngest of us if he choose to observe, and can re- member what he observes must have a catalogue of ' things- departed;' of customs, ceremonies, institutions, to which. THINGS DEPARTED. f>7 people were used, and which fell gradually into disuse; which seemed, while they existed, to be almost necessaries, of life, and for which now they don't care the value of a Spanish bond. There was a friend of mine, a man of genius, whose only fault was his continuous drunkenness, who used to say that the pith of the whole matter lay in the ' doctrine of averages.' I was never a dab at science and that sort of thing ; but I suppose he meant that there was an average in the number of his tumblers of brandy and water, in the comings up of new fashions, and in the goings down of old ones ; then of the old ones coming up again, and so vice versa, till I begin to get muddled (morally muddled, of course), and give up the doctrine of averages in despair. I have a copious collection in my memory of things de- parted. I am no chicken (though not the gray-headed old fogy that insulting Squrrel presumes to call me) ; but if I were to tell you a tithe of what I can remember in the way of departed fashions, manners, and customs, the very margins of this paper would be flooded with type. Let me endeavour to recall a few a very few only of what I call things de- parted. Hackney-coaches, for instance. Why, a boy of twelve years of age" can remember them; and yet, where are they now? AY ho thinks of them? Grand, imposing, musty- smelling, unclean old institutions they were. Elaborate heraldic devices covered their panels ; dim legends used to be current amongst us children, that the}'' had all been noble- men's carriages once upon a time, but falling with the princely houses they appertained to in to decay, had so come to grief and hackney-coachhood. They had wonderful coach- men, too imposing individuals, in coats with capes infinite in number. How they drove ! How they cheated ! How they swore ! The keenest of your railway cabbies, the most extortionate of your crack Hansoms, would have paled before the unequalled Billingsgate of those old-world men, at the comprehensive manner in which you, your person, costume, morals, family, and connections, were cursed. As all boat- men at Portsmouth have (or say they have) been Nelson's cox- swain, so used I to believe every hackney-coachman I saw to be the identical Jarvej^ who had been put inside his own. vehicle by the Prince of Wales, and driven about the metro- polis by that frolicsome and royal personage, in company with Beau Brummel, Colonel Hanger, and Philippe Egalite. 58 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. But the hackney-coach is now one of the things departed. There is one one still, I believe stationed in the environs of North Audley Street, Oxford Street. I have seen it a ghostly, unsubstantial pageant flit before me, among cabs and omnibuses, like a vehicular phantom ship. The coach- man is not the rubicund, many-caped Jehu of yore. He is a thin, weazened old man in a jacket (hear it!) and Welling- ton boots. The armorial bearings on the coach-panels are defaced ; the springs creak ; the wheels stumble as they roll. I should like to know the man who has the courage to call that hackney-coach off the stand, and to ride in it. He must be a Conservative. What have they done with the old hackney-coaches ? Have they sent them to Paris as raw materials for barricades ? Are their bodies yet mouldering, as in a vale of dry bones, in some Long Acre coach-builder's back shop ? and some day, mounted on fresh springs, fresh painted and fresh glazed, newly emblazoned with heraldic lies, with flaunting hammer- cloths and luxurious squabs, are they to roll once more to courtly levee, or civic feast, to stop the way at ball or opera, to rattle nobility to the portal of St. George's, Hanover Square, to be married, or follow it, creeping, and with win- dows up, to be buried ? What have they done with the old cabriolets, too the bouncing, rattling, garishly-painted cabs, with a hood over the passenger, and a little perch on one side for the driver ? They upset apple-stalls often their fares, too, frequently. Their drivers were good whips, and their horses skittish. Where are they now ? Do they ply in the streets of Sydney or San Francisco, or have their bodies been cut up, years ago, for firewood and lucifer-matches ? Intimately connected, in association and in appearance, with the Jarveys, were the Charleys, or watchmen. They went out with oil-lamps, the Duke of Wellington's ministry, and the Bourbon family. Like the coachmen, they wore many-caped coats ; like them, they wore low-crowned hats, and were rubicund in the countenance ; like them, they were abusive. In the days of our youth we used to beat these Charleys, to appropriate their rattles, to suspend them in mid air, like Mahomet's coffin, in their watch-boxes. Now-a-days, there be stern men, Policemen, in oilskin hats, with terrible truncheons, and who ' stand no nonsense ;' they do all the beating themselves, and lock us up when we would strive to THINGS DEPARTED. 59 knock them down. There is yet, to this day, a watch-box a real monumental watch-box standing, a relic of days gone by somewhere near Orchard Street, Portman Square. It has been locked up for years ; and great-coated policemen pass it nightly, on their beat, and cast an anxious glance towards it, lest night-prowlers should be concealed behind its worm-eaten walls. And, touching great-coats, are not great-coats themselves among the things departed ? We have Paletots (the name of which many have assumed), Ponchos, Burnouses, Syl- phides, Zephyr wrappers, Chesterfields, Llamas, Pilot wrap- pers, Wrap-rascals, Bisuniques, and a host of other garments, more or less answering the purpose of an over-coat. But where is the great-coat the long, voluminous, wide-skirted garment of brown or drab broadcloth, reaching to the ankle, possessing unnumbered pockets ; pockets for bottles, pockets for sandwiches, secret pouches for cash, and side-pockets for bank-notes ? This venerable garment had a cape, which, in wet or snowy weather, when travelling outside the ' High- flyer ' coach, you turned over your head. Your father wore it before you, and you hoped to leave it to your eldest son. Solemn repairs careful renovation of buttons and braiding were done to it, from time to time. A new great-coat was an event a thing to be remembered as happening once or so in a lifetime. There are more coaches and coats that are things departed, besides hackney-coachmen and long great-coats. Where are the short stages ? Where are the days when we went gipsy- ing, in real stage-coaches, from the ' Flower-Pot,' in Bishops- gate Street, to Epping Forest, or to Kensington, or to the inaccessible Harnpstead ? The time occupied in those me- morable journeys now suffices for our transportation to Brighton fifty-two good English miles. Where is the Brighton coach itself its four blood-horses ; the real live baronet, who coached it for a livelihood ; and, for all the 'bloody hand' in his scutcheon, sent round his servant to collect the gratuitous half-crowns from the passengers. Things departed are the pleasant view of London from Shooter's Hill, the houses on the river, and, over all, the great dome of St. Paul's looming through the smoke. What is the great North Eoad now ? one of the Queen's highways, and nothing more ; but, in those days, it was the great coach- ing thoroughfare of the kingdom. Highgate flourished ; but, 60 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. where is Highgate now ? I was there the other day. The horses were gone, and the horse-troughs, and the horse- keepers. Yet, from the window of the Gate-house I could descry in one coup d'ceil, looking northwards, thirteen public- houses. The street itself was deserted, save ~foy a ragged child, struggling with a pig for the battered remnant of a kettle. I wondered who supported those public-houses now ; whether the taps were rusty, and the pots dull ; or whether, in sheer desperation at the paucity of custom, the publicans had their beer from one another's houses, and, at night, smoked their pipes and drank their grog in one another's bar- parlours. So, yet wondering and undecided, I passed through Highgate Archway where no man offered to swear me and came to the turnpike, where I saw a lamentable illustra- tion of the hardness of the times, in the turnpike-man being obliged to take toll in kind ; letting a costermonger and a donkey-cart through for vegetables ; and a small boy, going Islington- wards, for an almost bladeless knife. Where is Cranbourne Alley ? where that delightful maze of dirty, narrow, little thoroughfares, leading from Leicester "Square to St. Martin's Lane ? There was an alley of bonnet- shops behind whose dusty windows faded Tuscans and Leghorns were visible, and at the doors of which stood women, slatternly in appearance, but desperate and accom- plished touters. Man, woman, or child, it was all the same to them ; if they had made up their minds that you were to buy a bonnet, buy one you were obliged to do, unless gifted with rare powers for withstanding passionate persuasion and awful menace. Piteous stories were told of feeble-minded old gentlemen emerging from the ' courts,' half-fainting, laden with bonnet-boxes, and minus their cash, watches, and jewel- lery, which they had left behind them, in part payment for merchandise which they had bought, or had been compelled to buy. The Lowther Arcade was not built in those days ; and, in Cranbourne Alley, there were toy-shops, and cheap jewellery warehouses, and magazines for gimcracks of every description. Moreover, in Cranbourne Alley was there not Hamlet's not Hamlet the Dane, but Hamlet, the silversmith ! How many times have I stood, wondering, by those dirty windows, when I ought to have been wending my way to Mr. Wackerbarth's seminary for young gentlemen ! Peering into the dim obscurity, dimly making out stores of gigantic silver dish-covers, hecatombs of silver spoons and forks THINGS DEPARTED. Cl Pelions upon Ossas of race-cups and church services, Hamlet was, to me, a synonyme with boundless wealth, inexhaustible credit, the payment of Consols the grandeur of commercial Britain, in fact. Hamlet, Cranbourne Alley, and the Consti- tution ! Yet Cranbourne Alley and Hamlet are both things departed. In the shops in this neighbourhood they sold things which have long since floated down the sewer of Lethe into the river of Limbo. AY hat has become of the tinder-box ? the box we never could find when we wanted it ; the tinder that wouldn't light ; the flint and steel that wouldn't agree to strike a light till we had exhausted our patience, and chipped numerous small pieces of skin and flesh from our fingers ? Yet Bacon wrote his ' Novum Organum,' and Blackstone his 4 Commentaries/ by tinder-box-lighted lamps : and Guy Fawkes was very nearly blowing up the Legislature with a tinder- box-lighted train. The tinder-box is gone now; and, in its place, we have sinister-looking splints, made from chopped-up coffins ; which, being rubbed on sand-paper, send forth a diabolical glare, and a suffocating smoke. But they do not fail, like the flint and steel, and light with magical rapidity ; so, as everybody uses them, I am obliged to do so too. And, while I speak of lights and smoke, another thing departed comes before me. There is no such a thing as a pipe of tobacco now-a-days, sir. I see English gentlemen go about smoking black abominations like Irish apple-women. I hear of Milo's, Burns' cutty-pipes, Narghiles, Chiboucks, meerschaums, hookahs, water pipes, straw pipes, and a host of other inventions for emitting the fumes of tobacco. But where, sir, is the old original alderman pipe, the church- warden's pipe, the unadulterated ' yard of clay ?' A man was wont to moisten the stem carefully with beer ere he put it to his lips ; when once it was alight, it kept alight ; a man could sit behind that pipe, but can a man sit behind the ridiculous figments they call pipes now ? The yard of clay is departed. A dim shadow of it lingers sometimes in the parlours of old city taverns ; I met with it once in the Bull Eing at Birming- ham. I have heard of it in Chester ; but in its entirety, as a popular, acknowledged pipe, it must be numbered with the things that were. AVhere are the franks ? I do not allude to the warlike race of Northmen, who, under the sway of Pharamond, first gave Prance its name ; neither do I mean those individuals who, 62 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. rejoicing in the appellation of Francis, are willing to accept the diminutive of Frank 1 mean those folded sheets of letter- paper, which, being endorsed with the signature of a peer, or of a Member of Parliament, went thenceforward post-free. There were regular frank-hunters men who could nose a Member who had not yet given all his franks away, with a scent as keen as ever Cuban bloodhound had for negro flesh. He would give chase in the lobby; run down the doomed legislator within the very shadow of the Sergeant-at- Arms' bag- wig ; and, after a brief contest, unfrank him on the spot. They were something to look at, and something worth having, those franks, when the postage to Edinburgh was thirteen- pence. But the franks are gone gone with the procession of the mail-coaches on the first of May ; they have fallen before little effigies of the sovereign, printed in red, and gummed at the back. English Members of Parliament have no franks now ; and the twenty-five (though of a metallic nature) allowed, till very lately, to the Members of the French Legis- lature, have even been abolished. I never think of franks without a regretful remembrance of another thing departed a man who, in old times, stood on the steps of the Post-office in St. Martin's le Grand, with a sheet of cartridge-paper, and whom I knew by the appellation of ' it forms.' 4 It forms,' he was continually saying, * now it forms a jockey-cap, now a church-door, a fan, a mat, the paddle-boxes of a steamer, a cocked hat ;' and, as he spoke, he twisted the paper into something bearing a resemblance to the articles he named. He is gone ; so is the sheet of fool's- cap we used to twist into the semblance of cocked hats, silk- worm-boxes, and boats, when boys at school. The very secret of the art is lost in these degenerate days, I verily believe, like that of making Venetian bezoar, or staining glass for windows. Whole hosts of street arts and street artists are among the things departed. Where is the dancing bear, with his piteous brown muzzle and uncouth gyrations ? W 7 here is the camel ? Where the tight-rope dancers ? the performers on stilts ? Where are these gone ? Say not that the New Police Act has abolished them ; for though that sweeping piece of legislation has silenced the dustman's bell., and bade the muffin-boy cry muffins no more, we have still the organ-grinders with, or without, monkeys, the Highland bagpipes, and the acrobats. The fantoccinis are almost extinct; and I suppose Punch THINGS DEPARTED. (\\\ will go next. It is all very well, and right, and proper, of course. Dancing bears and camels, monkeys and fantoccinis, are all highly immoral, no doubt ; but I should just like to see what the British Constitution would be without Punch and Judy. The small-coal man is gone ; the saloop stall ; the blind man and his dog are becoming rarce aves ; the grizzled Turk with a dirty turban, and a box of rhubarb before him, is scarcely ever to be met with. In his stead we have a liver- coloured Lascar, shivering in white cotton robes, selling tracts of the inflammatory order of Piety, and occasionally offering them in exchange for gin. Age, caprice, the encouragement of new favourites, are driving these old-established ornaments of the streets away. I do not quarrel so much with the ever-changing fashions in dress. I can give up without a sigh the leg-of-mutton sleeves, those dreadful pear-shaped monsters of silk and muslin, they wore about the year '30. I will not clamour for the revival of the bishop's sleeves unwieldy articles that were always either getting squashed flat as a pancake in a crowd, or dipping into the gravy at dinner. I will resign the monstrous Leghorn hats the short-waisted pelisses, the Cos- sack trousers, and flaming stocks in which we arrayed our- selves, when George the Fourth was king ; but let me drop one tear, heave one sigh, to the memories of pig-tails and Hessian boots. Both are things departed. One solitary pig-tail, I believe, yet feebly flourishes in some remote corner of the agricultural districts of England. It comes up to town during the season ; and I have seen it in New Burlington Street. The Hessians, though gone from the lower extremities of a nation, yet find abiding place on the calves of the Stranger in Mr. Kotzebue's play of that name, and over the portals of some bootmakers of the old school. The Hessians of our youth are gone. The mirror-polished, gracefully- outlined, silken-tasselled Hes- sians exist no more those famous boots, the soles of which Mr. Brummel caused to be blacked, and in the refulgent lustre of which the gentleman of fashion immortalised by Mr. Warren was wont to shave himself. Of the buildings, the monuments, the streets, which are gone, I will not complain. I can spare that howling desert in the area of Leicester Fields, with its battered railings, its cat- haunted parterres, its gravel walks, usurped by snails, and 64 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. overgrown with weeds. I like Mr. Wyld's Great Globe better. I can dispense with the old Mews of Charing Cross, and the bill-covered hoarding surrounding them, though I loved the latter, for the first announcement of the first play I ever saw was pasted there. I like Trafalgar Square (barring the fountains) "better. I can surrender the horrible collection of mangy sheds, decomposed vegetables, and decaying baskets, which used to block up Farringdon Street, and which they called Fleet Market. I can renounce, though with a sigh, the Fleet Prison, acquiesce in the superiority of New Oxford Street over St. Giles's and the Holy Land, and of Victoria Street, as compared with the dirt and squalor and crime of Westminster. Yet, let me heave one sigh for King's Cross, that anomalous little area where many roads converge, and many monuments have stood. There was a stone monster, an adamantine Guy Fawkes, which was traditionally supposed to represent George the good, the magnificent, the great ; his curly wig, his portly mien, his affable countenance. Little boys used to chalk their political opinion freely on the pedestal, accompanied by rough cartoons of their parents and guardians, their pastors and masters ; omnibus drivers and conductors pointed the finger of hilarity at it, as they passed by ; it was a great statue. They have taken it away, with the Small-pox Hos- pital into the bargain, and though they have set up another George, stirrupless, hatless, and shoeless, in Trafalgar Square, and the Hospital is removed elsewhere, the terminus of the Great Northern Eailway, and the pedestal with three big lamps now standing in their stead, are a dis-sight to mine eyes, and make me long for the old glories of King's Cross and Battle Bridge. Smithfield is going. Tyburn is gone (I am not such an old fogy, Mr. Squrrel, as to be able to remember that ; nor so stanch a Conservative as to regret it, now that it is gone). Bartholomew Fair is gone. Greenwich Fair going. Chalk Farm Fair a melancholy mockery of merriment. Let me ask a few more interrogations, and let me go too. Where are the fogs ? Light brumous vapours I see hang- ing over London, in December ; but not the fogs of my youth. They were orange-coloured, substantial, palpable fogs, that you could cut with a knife, or bottle up for future inspection. In those fogs vessels ran each other down on the river ; link- boys were in immense request ; carriages and four drove into chemists' shops and over bridges ; and in the counting-house THINGS DErAKTED. (5f) of Messrs. Bingo, Mandingo, and Flamingo, where I was a small boy, copying letters, we burnt candles in the battered old sconces all day long. I saw a fog, a real fog, the other day, travelling per rail from Southampton ; but it was a white one, and gave me more the idea of a balloon voyage than of the fog de facto. Gone with the fogs are the link-boys, the sturdy, impudent varlets, who beset you on murky nights with their flaming torches, and the steady-going, respectable, almost aristocratic link-bearers, with silver badges often, who had the monopoly of the doors of the opera, and of great men's houses, when balls or parties were given. I knew a man once who was in the habit of attending the nobility's entertainments, not by the virtue of an invitation, but by the grace of his own indomi- table impudence, and by the link-boys' favour. An evening costume, an unblushing mien, and a crown to the link-boy, would be sufficent to make that worthy bawl out his name and style to the hall-porter ; the hall-porter would shout it to the footman; the footman yell it to the groom of the chambers ; while the latter intoning it for the benefit of the lady or gentleman of the house, those estimable persons would take it for granted that they must have invited him ; and so bowing and complimenting, as a matter of course, leave him without restriction to his devices, in the way of dancing, flirting, e'carte playing, and supper-eating. Few and far between are the link-boys in this present 1859. The running footmen with the flambeaux have vanished these many years ; and the only mementos surviving of their existence are the blackened extinguishers attached to the area railings of some old-fashioned houses about Grosvenor Square. With the flambeaux, the sedan-chairs have also disappeared; the drunken Irish chairmen who carried them; the whist-loving old spinsters, who delighted to ride inside them. I have seen disjecta membra venerable ruins, here and there, of the sedan- chairs at Bath, at Cheltenham, at Brighton ; but the bones thereof are marrowless, and its eyes without speculation. The old articles of furniture that I loved, are things departed. The mirror, with its knobby gilt frame, and stunted little branches for candles, the podgy eagle above it, and its convex surface reflecting your face in an eccentric and distorted manner ; the dumb waiter, ugly and useful ; the dear old spinnet, on which aunt Sophy used to play those lamentable pieces of music, the ' Battle of Prague ' and the F 66 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. ' Calipli of Bagdad ;'* the old cheffonnier, the ' whatnot,' and the ' Canterbury;' the workbox, with a view of the Pavilion at Brighton on the lid ; the Tunbridge ware, (supplanted now by vile, beautifully-painted, artistic things of papier-mache, from Birmingham, forsooth,) gone, and for ever. Even while I talk, whole crowds of ' things departed ' flit before me, of which I have neither time to tell, nor you patience to hear. Post-boys, c wax-ends from the palace,' Dutch-pugs, black footmen, the window-tax, the Palace Court, Gatton, and Old Sarum! What will go next, I wonder? Temple Bar, Lord Mayor's Day, j or the ' Gentleman's Maga- zine ?' Well, well : it is all for the best, I presume. The trivial things that I have babbled of, have but departed with the leaves and the melting snow with the hopes that are ex- tinguished, and the ambition that is crushed with dear old friends dead, and dearer friendships severed. I will be con- tent to sit on the milestone by the great road, and, smoking my pipe, watch the chariot of life, with Yguth on the box and Pleasure in the dicky, tear by till the dust thrown up by its wheels has whitened my hair, and it shall be my time to be numbered among the things departed. VI. PHASES OF 'PUBLIC' LIFE. CHAPTER I. WHEN the race of this huge London World-City shall be run when the millstone shall have been cast into its waters, and the word has gone forth that Babylon the great is fallen, is fallen when the spider shall weave his web amidst the broken columns of the Bank ; the owl shriek through the deserted arcades of the Exchange ; and the jackal prowl through labyrinths of ruins and rubbish, decayed oyster-shells and bleached skeletons of the dogs of other days, where once was Eegent Street I should very much like to know what the ' Central Australian Society for the Advancement of Science,' or the ' Polynesian Archaeological Association,' or the ' Imperial New Zealand Society of Antiquaries/ would be likely to make of a great oblong board which glares at me * Temporarily resuscitated lately. f It is well nigh gone. The man in armour is a myth, and his place knows him no more. PHASES OF ' PUBLIC' LIFE. 67 through the window at which I am writing this present paper a board some five-and-twenty feet in length perchance, painted a bright resplendent blue, and on which are em- blazoned in glittering gold the magic words, ' Barclay, Perkins, and Co.'s Entire.' One of these boards will, perchance, be disinterred by some persevering savant from a heap of the relics of old London antiquities; wheel-less, shaft-less, rotting Hansom's cabs, rusted chimney-cowls, turnpike -gates of ancient fashion and design, gone-by gas-lamps and street-posts. And the savant will doubtless imagine that he will find in the mysterious board the once glittering characters some sign, some key, to the secret freemasonry, some shibboleth of the old London world. Learned pamphlets will be written, doubtless, to prove a connection between Barclay and Perkins and Captain Barclay the pedestrian, and Perkins' steam-gun, who and which, joined together by some Siamese bond of union, be- came thenceforth and for ever one entire * Co.' Other sages, haply, will have glimmering notions that Barclay and Perkins have something to do with a certain X.X.X. ; others stoutly maintain that the words formed but Christian and surnames, common among the inhabitants of old London, even as were the well-known Smiths,' and the established ' Jones.' ' We know,' they will say, ' that the great architect of the most famous buildings in old London was called " Voluntary Con- tributions ;" we know that a majority of the citizens of that bygone city were addicted to the creed of Zoroaster, or sun- worship ; for we find on the ruins of their houses votive plates of brass, of circular form, bearing an effigy of the sun, with a reference to fire-insurance these things have been demonstrated by learned doctors and professors of ability; why may we not, then, assume that Barclay and Perkins were names possessed in an astonishingly prolific degree by London citizens, who, proud of belonging to so respectable a family, were in the habit of blazoning the declaration of their lineage in blue and gold on an oblong board, and affixing the same to the front of their houses?' The Emperor of China has upwards of five thousand cousins, who are distinguished from the tag-rag and bobtail of the Celestial Empire by wearing yellow girdles. 'Why,' these sages will ask, 'may not the parent Barclay Perkins have been a giant, blessed with hundreds of arrows in his quiver, whose thousand thousand descendants were proud to be clad like him in a livery of blue and gold ?' F 2 68 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. Then the sages will squabble, and wrangle, and call each other bad names, and write abusive diatribes against each other by magnetic telegraph, just as other sages were wont to squabble and wrangle about the Eosetta Stone, the Source of the Niger, and Bruce's discoveries ; or, as they do now, about the North-West Passage and the percement of the Isthmus of Suez, the causes of the cholera and diphtheria, and the possibi- lity of aerial navigation. As it has been, so it is, and will be, I suppose ; and if we can't agree nowadays, so shall we, or rather our descendants, disagree in times to come, and con- cerning matters far less recondite or abstruse than Barclay Perkins. / know what Barclay and Perkins mean, I hope ; what Combe and Delafield what Truman, Hanbury, and Buxton what Calvert and Co. what Eeid and Co. what Bass what Allsopp what Broadwood, Mundell, and Huggins. You know, too, gentle, moderate, and bibulous reader of the present age. They all mean BEER. Beer, the brown, the foaming, the wholesome, and refreshing, when taken in moderation; the stupifying, and to-station-house-leading, when imbibed ^to excess. That oblong board, all blue and gold, I have spoken of as visible from my parlour window, has no mystery for me. Plainly, unmistakably, it says Beer : a good tap ; four- pence a pot in the pewter ; threepence per ditto if sent for in your own jug. And if you admit (and you will admit, or you are no true Englishman) that beer be good and, being good, that we should be thankful for it can you tell me any valid reason why I should not write on the subject of Beer ? Seeing how many thousands of reputable persons there are throughout the country who live by the sale of beer, and how many millions drink it, seeing that beer is literally in everybody's mouth, it strikes me we should not ignore beer taken in its relation towards the belles lettres. Tarry with me, then, while I discourse on Beer on the sellers and the buyers thereof and of their habitations. I will essay to navigate my little bark down a river of beer, touching, perchance, at some little spirit-creek, or gently meandering through the ' back-waters ' of neat wines. When the Spanish student immortalised by Le Sage was inducted into the mysteries of the private life of Madrid, he availed himself of a temporary aerial machine, in a person of diabolical extraction, called Asmodeus who further assisted PHASES OF ' PUBLIC' LIFE. 69 Mm in his bird's-eye inspection, by taking the roofs off ihe houses. When the nobility and gentry frequenting the fashionable circles of the Arabian Sights, were desirous of travelling with extraordinary rapidity, they were sure to be accommodated with magical carpets, or swift-flying eagles, or winged horses. Then they could be rendered invisible, or provided with telescopes, enabling them .to see through every obstacle, from stone walls to steel castles ; but things are changed, and times are altered now. One can't go from London to Liverpool without buying a railway-ticket, and being importuned to show it half a dozen times in the course of the journey. If you want to study character in the Stock Exchange, you can get no more invisible suit to do it in than a suit of invisible green, and run, moreover, the risk of hearing a howl of '201 !' and feeling two hundred pair of hands, and two hundred pair of feet to match, bonneting, buffeting, hustling, and kicking you from the high place of Mammon. So, then, in the study of Beer and Beerhouses, I have had no adventitious aid from accommodating demons, obliging genii, invisible caps, carpets, or cloaks. ' Experientia ' you know the rest. I have graduated in Beer ; I have mastered its mysteries; and I will now assume, for your benefit, a magic power, which I devoutly wish I had possessed dining my Beery researches. Come with me, then, in the spirit, to Bankside ; and, after a cursory stroll round the fountain-head of beer, let us seat ourselves (still in the spirit) at the tail of one of these big drays, drawn by big horses, and, fearing no cries of ' whip behind !' from jealous boys (for, being spiritual, we are, of course, invisible), perambulate the metropolis, rapt in the contemplation of Beer. Surrounded with Barclay and Perkins's beer-barrels, our steeds conducted by Barclay and Perkins's red night-capped draymen, we will go in this, our magic chariot, from public-house to public-house : ' The latent tracks, the giddy heights explore ;' ' shoot folly as it flies, and catch the manners living as they rise ;' attempt a mild classification of the peculiar social characteristics of the different metropolitan ' publics ;' give, in short, a view and a description, however lame and incomplete it may be, of * London on Tap.' I do not purpose, in these pages, at least, to enter minutely into the consideration of the aspect of a London Brewery, or of the manufacture of the great English beverage ; so, then, our stay will be but short in this huge brick beer emporium. 70 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. I make remark, en passant, that an odour prevails in and about the establishment, resembling an amalgamation of several washing-days, a few cookshops, and a stable or two. To cursory spectators, such as you and I are, the brewery will offer very little besides this, and a general impression of ' bigness,' length, height, breadth, rotundity. The premises- are large, the vats are large ; the stables, the strong, stalwart horses, the provisions of hay and straw, of malt and hops, of smoke and steam, are all large. Large, also, to almost Titanic extensiveness, are the draymen gladiators of the Beery arena, with Phrygian caps of scarlet hue, and wide-spread leathern aprons. Large are their labours ; larger still, their appetites ; largest and mightiest of all, their thirst of beer. Grocers and pastry-cooks, they say, give their apprentices and shopmen the run of all the delicacies they deal in, for the first month of their service carte blanche to the plums, and figs, and tarts, of which to the ultimate benefit of the tradesman they speedily get very sick and tired ; but with the drayman-neophyte it seems quite different; for I never heard nor, did I hear, should I credit the assertion that any of Barclay and Perkins's men ever got tired of Barclay and Perkins's tap. Largely impressed, therefore, with their per- vading largeness, we will leave the brewhouse for the present. Privately, we may be allowed, and confidentially, to surmise, that the profits of the proprietors are also large very large, indeed : but goodness forbid that we should venture to hint (aloud, at least) that the prices they demand and obtain for beer are large, and considering malt, and hops, and grain, and Free Trade, and that sort of thing a great deal too large, and not quite just. The heavy wheels of our chariot have been rumbling, while I spoke, through the great thoroughfare which com- mences at Charing Cross, and ends at Mile End somewhere about where there was, once on a time, a Maypole. It diverges, going westward ; and we are in a trice in a street, in which / never was in a vehicle in my life without being blocked up, and in which, in the present instance, we are comfortably wedged with a timber-laden waggon, a hearse, and an advertising-van in front, and a Hansom cab or two, a mail-phaeton, and Mr. Ex-Sheriff Pickles's elegant chariot behind. Leaving the respective drivers to exchange com- pliments, coached in language more or less parliamentary, we will descend for a moment for the neighbourhood is thickly studded with public-houses and we shall have time, ere our PHASES OF ' PUBLIC' LIFE. 71 chariot be extricated, to investigate numerous varieties of ' London on Tap.' Here, first blatant, gay, and gaudy is a GIN PALACE a ' ginnery,' in full swing. The Palladio or the Vitruvius who built this palace, has curiously diversified the orders of architecture in its construc- tion. We have Doric shafts with Corinthian capitols an Ionic frieze Kenaissance panels a Gothic screen to the bar- parlour. But French polish and gilding cover a multitude of (architectural) sins ; and there is certainly no lack of either the one or the other here. Tier above tier surround the walls, supporting gigantic casks, bearing legends of a fabulous number of gallons contained within. Yet are they not dummies ; for we may observe spiral brass pipes, wriggling and twisting in snake-like contortions till they reach the bar, and so to the spirit-taps, where they bring the costly hogshead of the distiller home to the lips of the humblest costermonger, for a penny a glass. Beer is sold, and in con- siderable quantities a halfpenny a pint cheaper, too, than at other hostelries ; but it is curious beer beer of a half-sweet, half-acrid taste, black to the sight, unpleasant to the taste, brown in the froth, muddy in consistence. Has it been in delicate health, and can that shabby old man, in close confab with the landlord at the door, at the steps of the cellar, be the ' Doctor ?' Or has it been adulterated, ' fined/ doctored, patched, and cobbled up, for the amusement and instruction of amateurs in beer like steam-frigates, for instance, or Acts of Parliament ? The area before the bar, you will observe, is very spacious. At this present second hour of the afternoon, there are, perhaps, fifty people in it ; and it would hold, I dare say, full twenty more, and allow space, into the bargain, for a neat stand-up fight. One seems very likely to take place now between the costermonger, who has brought rather an incon- venient number of ' kea-rots ' and ' turmuts ' into the bar with him, and a peripatetic vendor of fish the quality of whose wares he has (with some show of justice, perhaps) impugned. So imminent does the danger appear, that the blind match- seller who was anon importuning the belligerents hastily scuttles off; and an imp of a boy, in a man's fustian jacket, and with a dirty red silk 'kerchief twisted round his bull neck, has mounted the big tub, on which he sits astride, pipe in hand a very St. Giles's Bacchus declaring that he will see ' fair play.' Let us edge away a little towards the bar 72 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. for the crowd towards the door is somewhat too promiscuous to be agreeable ; and it is not improbable that in the melee, some red-'kerchiefed citizen, of larger growth, whose extensor and flexor muscles are somewhat more powerfully developed, may make a savage assault on you, for his own private gratifi- cation, and the mere pleasure of hitting somebody. This ginnery has not only a bar public, but divers minor cabinets, bibulous loose boxes, which are partitioned off from the general area ; and the entrances to which are described in flowery, but somewhat ambiguous language. There is the 4 Jug and Bottle Entrance,' and the entrance ' For Bottles only.' There is the ' Wholesale Bar,' and the i Eetail Bar ;' but, wholesale or retail, jug or bottle, the different bars all mean Gin ! The long pewter counter is common to all. A counter perforated in elaborately-pricked patterns, like a convivial shroud, apparently for ornament, but really for the purpose of allowing the drainings, overflowings, and out- spill ings of the gin-glasses to drop through, which, being collected with sundry washings, and a dash, perhaps, of fresh material, is, by the thrifty landlord, dispensed to his customers under the title of ' all sorts.' Your dram-drinker, look you, is not unfrequently paralytic, wofully shaky in the hand; and the liquor he wastes, combined with that acci- dentally spilt, tells up wonderfully at the close of the year. There are cake-baskets on the counter, patronised mostly by the lady votaries of the rosy (or livid ?) god ; but their tops are hermetically sealed, and their dulcet contents protected by a wire dome, or cupola, of convex form. Besides what I have described, if you will add some of my old friends the gold-blazoned boards, bearing the eulogies of various brewers, together with sundry little placards, framed and glazed, and printed in colours, telling, in seductive language, of * Choice Compounds,' ' Old Tom,' ' Cream of the Valley,' ' Superior Cream Gin,' ' The Eight Sort,' Kinahan's L.L.,' ' The Dew off Ben Nevis,' the ' Celebrated Balmoral Mixture, patronised by his Eoyal Highness Prince Albert ' (the illustrious person- age, clad in full Highland costume, with an extensive herd of red deer in the distance, is represented taking a glass of the ' Mixture ' with great apparent gusto) ; besides these, I repeat, you will need nothing to ' complete the costume,' as the romancers have it, of a Gin Palace. Except the landlord, perhaps, who is bald and corpulent, who has a massive watch-chain, and a multiplicity of keys, and whose hands seem to leave the pockets of his trousers as PHASES OF ' PUBLIC* LIFE. 73 seldom as his keen eye does the gin-drawing gymnastics of his barmen. Gymnastics they are, tours deforce, feats of calis- thenics as agile as any performed by the agile professor whom I have just seen pass, all dirt, flesh-coloured drawers, and rgles. A quick, sharp, jerking twist for the spirit tap, vdng to run till the liquor is within a hair's breadth of the top of the measure, and no longer ; a dexterous tilt of the 'two/ or 'three out' glasses required; an agile shoving for* ward of the pewter noggin with one hand, while the other inevitable palm is presented for the requisite halfpence ; and oh ! such a studious carefulness that one hand is not emptied before the other is filled. It is not everybody can serve in the bar of a Gin Palace. The barman wears a fur cap gene- rally sometimes a wide-awake. He is addicted to carrying a piece of straw, a pipe-light, or the stalk of a flower in his mouth, diversifying it occasionally by biting half-crowns viciously. When he gives you change, he slaps it down on the counter in a provocatory manner ; his face is flushed ; his manner short, concise, sententious. His vocabulary is limited ; a short ' Now then,' and a brief ' Here you are,' forming the staple phrases thereof. I wonder what his views of human nature of the world, its manners, habits, and customs can be like. Or what does the barmaid think of it ? I should like to know : the young lady in the coal-black ringlets (like magnified leeches), the very brilliant complexion, and the coral necklace. Mercy on us ! what can she, a girl of eighteen, think of the faces, the dress, the language of the miserable creatures among whom she spends sixteen hours of her life every day every mortal day throughout the year once in every three weeks (her ' day out ') excepted ? One word about the customers, and we will rejoin our chariot, which must surely be extricated by this time. Thieves, beggars, costermongers, hoary-headed old men, stunted, ragged, shock-haired children, blowzy, slatternly women, hulking bricklayers, gaunt, sickly hobbedehoys, with long greasy hair. A thrice-told tale. Is it not the same everywhere ! The same pipes, dirt, howling, maundering, fighting, staggering gin fever. Like plates multiplied by the electro-process like the printer's c stereo ' like the reporter's ' manifold ' you will find duplicates, triplicates of these for- lorn beings everywhere. The same woman giving her baby gin; the same haggard, dishevelled woman, trying to coax her drunken husband home; the same mild girl, too timid 71 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. even to importune her ruffian partner to leave off drinking the week's earnings, who sits meekly in a corner, with two dis- coloured eyes, one freshly blacked one of a week's standing. The same weary little man, who comes in early, crouches in a corner, and takes standing naps during the day, waking up periodically for ' fresh drops.' The same red-nosed, ragged object who disgusts you at one moment by the force and fluency of his Billingsgate, and surprises you the next by bursting out in Greek and Latin quotations. The same thin, spectral man who has no money, and with his hands piteously laid one over the other, stands for hours gazing with fishy eyes at the beloved liquor smelling, thinking of, hopelessly desiring it. And lastly, the same miserable girl, sixteen in years, and a hundred in misery ; with foul, matted hair, and death in her face ; with a tattered plaid shawl, and ragged boots, a gin-and-fog voice, and a hopeless eye. Mr. Ex-Sheriff Pickles' s carriage no longer stops the way, and the big draymen have conducted the big horses and the big dray to its destination. Beer has to be delivered at the sig;n of the ' Green Hog Tavern ;' whither, if you have no objection, we will forthwith hie. The Green Hog is in a tortuous, but very long street a weak-minded street indeed, for it appears unable to decide whether to go to the right or to the left, straight or zig-zag, to be broad or to be narrow. The Green Hog participates in this indecision of character. It evidently started with the intention of having a portico, but stopping short, compromised the matter by overshadowing the street door with a hideous excrescence between a verandah, a ' bulk,' and a porch. Con- tradictory, also, is the Green Hog ; for it calls itself, over the door, the Green Hog Tavern, over the window, a Wine Vaults, and round the corner (in the Mews) a Spirit Stores. The bar is shamefaced, having run away to the end of a long passage ; and even then, when you do get to it, is more like a bow- window than like a bar, and more like a butler's pantry than either. Very few customers do you see standing at the bar of the Green Hog ; yet does its verdant porcinity considerable business with Barclay Perkins. The truth is, the Green Hog is one of a class of publics, becoming rapidly extinct in London. It is a tavern one of the old, orthodox, top-booted, sanded-floored taverns. It does a good business, not by casual beer-drinkers, but in c lunch, dinner, and supper beers.' A better business, perhaps, in PHASES OF ' PUBLIC' LIFE. 75 wines and dinners; for to the Green Hog resort a goodly company of the customers of the ' old school,' men who yet adhere to the traditional crown bowl of punch, and the his- torical ' rump and dozen,' who take their bottle of wine after dinner, and insist upon triangular spittoons. They are behind the times, perhaps, and the Green Hog is a little behind them too. The Green Hog can't make out competition, and new inventions, and fresh blood, and new resources. ' My father kept this house afore me,' says the Green Hog, * and my son'll keep it after me.' So, within his orthodox and time-honoured precincts, a ' go' of sherry is still called a bottle of sherry a glass of brandy and water is charged a shilling. ' Bell's Old Weekly Messenger ' is taken in ; and the Green Hog goes to bed at midnight winter or summer week-day or Sabbaths { ^ The parlour (or common room) of the Green Hog is a sight. The ceiling is low and bulging, and is covered with a quiet, gray-patterned paper. There is a sanded floor, a big fireplace, * settles ' on either side thereof, long substantial tables, and a chair on a dais nailed against the wall. No newfangled por- traits hang on the walls, of race-horses, Radical Members, of performers at the Theatres Eoyal. There is, however, Mr. Charles Young, in mezzotint, Roman costume, and toga. There is the best of monarchs in jack-boots and a pig-tail,, reviewing two hundred thousand volunteers in Hyde Park. There is the next best of monarchs in his curliest wig, smiling affably at the fur collar of his surtout. There is the portrait of the late landlord, and the portrait of the present one. There is, finally, Queen Caroline, looking deeply injured in an enormous hat and feathers, and an aquatint view of the opening of Blackfriars Bridge. To this comfortable and old-fashioned retreat come the comfortable and old-fashioned customers, who ' use ' the Green Hog. Hither comes Mr. Tuckard, a round old gentleman, supposed to be employed in some capacity at the Tower of London, but whether as a warder, an artillery-man, or a gen- tleman-gaoler deponent sayeth not. He appears regularly at nine o'olock every morning, eats a huge meat-and-beer break- fast, orders his dinner, re-appears at six o'clock precisely, cats a hearty dinner, drinks a bottle of port, and smokes nine pipes of tobacco, washed down by nine tumblers of gin and water. He invariably finishes his nine tumblers just as John the waiter (of whom no man ever knew the surname, or saw the bow to his neck-tie) brings in tumbler of brandy and water, 76 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. number four, for Mr. Scrayles, the eminent corn-chandler (reported to be worth a mint of money). The door being opened, Mr. Tuckard rises, looks round, nods, and without further parley, makes a bolt through the door and disappears. This, with but few interruptions, he has done daily and nightly for five-and-thirty years. He rarely speaks but to intimate friends (with whom he has had a nodding acquaintance for twenty years, perhaps). He occasionally condescends to im- part, in a fat whisper, his opinions about the funds and the weather. It is reported that he cannot read, for he never was known to take up a newspaper that he cannot write that he never sleeps. No one knows where he lives. He is Tuckard, employed in the Tower of London; that is all. Sometimes, on high days and holidays, he hands round a por- tentous golden snuff-box, purporting, from the engraving on its lid, to have been presented to Thomas Tuckard, Esquire, by his friends and admirers, members of the ' Cobb Club.' Who was Cobb ? and what manner of Club was his ? Besides the mysterious possessor of the snuff-box, and the wealthy corn-chandler, there are some score more grave and sedate frequenters of the parlour, all ' warm ' men, financially speaking, all quietly eloquent as to the funds and the weather, and all fond of their bottle of wine, and their tumbler of grog. Time and weather, changes of ministry, births, deaths, and marriages seem to have but little effect on them, nor to ruffle, in any sensible degree, the even tenour of their lives. They will continue, I have no doubt, to ' use ' the Green Hog as long as they are able to use anything ; and when the grog of life is drained, and the pipe of existence is extinguished, they will quietly give place to other old codgers, who will do, doubtless, as they did before them. Don't suppose that Barclay and Perkins's dray, or Barclay and Perkins's men have been idle or unprofitably employed while I have been poking about the parlour of the Green Hog. No : theirs has been the task to raise the cellar-flap on the pavement, and to lower, by means of sundry chains and ropes, the mighty butts of beer required for the lunches, dinners, and suppers of the Green Hog's customers. Curious evolu- tions, both human and equestrian, were performed during the operation. Small boys took flying leaps over the prostrate barrels ; the stalwart steeds cut figures of eight in the narrow thoroughfare, occasionally backing into the chandler's shop opposite, to the imminent peril of the Dutch cheeses, balls of PHASES OF 'PUBLIC' LIFE, 77 twine, screws of tobacco, and penny canes there exposed to view, and the loudly-expressed consternation of the proprie- trix ; the pavement on one side was rendered temporarily impassable by a barricade of tightly-strained cordage, and the otherwise equable temper of the servant-maid from No. 4, seriously ruffled, as, emerging from the door with a foaming jug of half-and-half, a dirty rope came right across her clean white stocking. Then, after all this, have the gigantic draymen rested and refreshed themselves. A tem- porary game of hide-and-seek has taken place each red- capped butt-twister wandering about anxiously inquiring for his ' mate ;' but the lost have been found ; and, when from the dark and poky parlour we re-enter the bow-windowed bar (where the sweet -smelling thicket of lemons, and the punch- bowls, the punch-ladles, with William and Mary guineas soldered in them, and the bright-eyed landlord's daughter are) we find the mighty yeomen discussing huge dishes of beef- steaks and onions, and swallowing deep draughts from the Pierian spring of Barclay's best. Take with me, I entreat, a glass of Dutch bitters from that pot-bellied, quaint-shaped bottle with the City shield and dagger on it, for all the world like one of the flasks in Hogarth's Modern Midnight Conversation. Then as the draymen have finished their repast, and our chariot awaits us, let us sally forth into London again, and seek a fresh tap. What have we here? A pictorial 'public.' Lithographic prints, wood engravings in the windows ; Highland gentlemen, asseverating, in every variety of attitude, that their names are Korval that their pedigrees are pastoral, and that, their last past places of residence were the Grampian Hills ; Hamlet declaring his capacity to tell a hawk from a handsaw ; Job Thornbury vindicating the rights of the Englishman's fireside : Lady Macbeth lamenting the inutility of all the perfumes of Arabia to sweeten ' this little hand ' which looks large ; clowns bewailing the loss of a ' farden/ grinning hideously meanwhile all as performed by Messieurs and Mesdames So- and-so, at the Theatres Eoyal. The little glazed placards in the window, telling of chops, steaks, and Schweppe's soda- water, are elbowed, pushed from their stools, by cartoons of the ' Bounding Brothers of the Himalaya Mountains ;' Signer Scapino and his celebrated dog Jowler ; Herr Diavolo Buffo, the famous corkscrew equilibrist (from the Danube), and tight- rope dancer; or Mademoiselle Smicherini the dancer, with 78 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. undeniable silk fleshings, and very little else. Lower down, bills of theatrical benefits, tournaments at tea-gardens, ' readings ' from; Shakspeare, and harmonic meetings dispute the pavement with the legitimate possessors of the soil the brewers and distillers. Within is a grove a forest rather, of play-bills, waving their red and black leaves in Yallambrosan density. Patent theatres, minor theatres, country theatres even Transatlantic temples of the drama. This is a theatrical ' public ' a house of call for Thespians. Over the way is the Theatre Eoyal, Barbican ; round the corner, up the court and two pair of stairs, Mr. Wilfred Grindoff Belville, has his thea- trical agency office ; here meet the Sock and Buskin Club ; and here, in days gone by, the great Konks, the tragedian, was wont to imbibe that bottle and a half of gin, without the aid of which he disdained to perform his famous character of * The Eobber of the Hills.' To the theatrical public come the actors of the Theatre Eoyal, Barbican, their friends and acquaintances, being actors at other theatres, and that anomalous class of persons who hunt for orders, and scrape acquaintance with theatrical people, of which and of whom they afterwards discourse voluminously in the genteel circles. Hither, also, come comedians, dancers, and pantomimists who are for the time out of engagements, who have placed their names on Mr. W. Gr. Belville's ' list,' and expect situations through his agency. A weary-looking, heart-sick with hope deferred body they are. There, intently studying the bill of the Bowie-knife Theatre, New York, is Mr. Montmorency de Courcy (ne Snaggs) in a mulberry-coloured body-coat and gilt basket buttons, check trousers, and a white hat. He is from the Northern Circuit, and hopes, please the pigs and Mr. Belville, to do second low comedy in London yet, though he has been a long time ' out of collar.' At the door, you have Mr. Snartell, the low comedian from Devonport, and Mr. Eollocks, the heavy father from the Bath Circuit, who affects, in private life, a low- crowned hat with a prodigious brim (has a rich though some- what husky bass voice), and calls everybody ' My son.' These, with many more dark-haired, close-shaven, and slightly mouldily-habited inheritors of the mantles of Kean, Dowton, or Blanchard, wait the live-long day for the long-wished-for engagements. Inside, at the bar, Signor Scapino, in proprid persona, is exercising his celebrated dog Jowler at standing on the hind PHASES OF ' PUBLIC* LIFE. 79 legs, placing a halfpenny on the counter, and receiving a biscuit instead ; two or three stage-carpenters are enjoying themselves over the material used to l grease the traps/ i. e. half a crown's worth of stimulants placed to their credit by the author of the last new piece over the way ; while the author himself, a mysterious individual in spectacles, and clutching an umbrella, eagerly scrutinizes the pile of country play-bills, in the hope of discovering among them some theatre at which one of his pieces has lately been performed, and on which he can be ' down ' for half a crown an act for each representation. Then there is a little prematurely-aged man, Doctor Snaffles, indeed, as he is called, who did the l old man ' line of business, but who does very little to speak of now, except drink. Drink has been his bane through life ; has thrown him out of every engagement he ever had, has muddled his brain, rendered his talent a shame and a curse, instead of a credit and a blessing to him ; made him the ragged, decrepit, palsied beggar-man you see him now. He asks the barmaid piteously for a pinch of snuff, which she never refuses him and returns him in addition, sometimes (when he can find no old theatrical friend to treat him) half a pint of porter. He is never seen to eat, and sleeps nowhere in particular, and has not washed within the memory of man. There's a little snuggery or private parlour behind the bar, to which are only free the actors of the adjacent theatre, of a certain standing, and their friends. In the intervals of re- hearsals before and after the performance this little snuggery is crammed. The heavy tragedian makes jokes that set the table in a roar, and the low comedian is very dismally and speechlessly drawing lines in beer with his finger on the Pembroke table. In the chimney corner sits Mr. Berrymax, a white-haired old gentleman, with a p]easant expression of countenance, who, though not an actor, enjoys prodigious con- sideration in the profession, as a play-goer of astonishing an- tiquity, who is supposed to remember Mrs. Bracegirdle, Peg TVoffington nay Betterton, almost; whose opinions on all points of reading, business, and stage traditions, are looked upon as oracles, whose decisions are final, and whose word is law. The landlord of the theatrical public-house is, very probably, a retired actor a prompter who has made a little 'money or, sometimes, even an unsuccessful manager. His daughter may be in the ballet at the adjacent theatre ; or, perhaps, if he be a little * warm,' she may have taken lessons 80 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. from Signer Chiccarini, wear a black velvet dress, carry an oblong morocco music-case, like a leathern candle-box, and sing at the Nobility's Concerts, and in the choruses of Her Majesty's Theatre. There are other theatrical publics, varying however in few particulars from the one into which we have peeped. There is the ' public ' over the water, whither the performers at the Eoyal Alexandrina Theatre (formerly the old Homborg) resort ; where Jobson, the original Vampire of Venice, reigns supreme, and where you may see a painted announcement, that ' Bottles are lent for the Theatre,' meaning that any thirsty denizen of the New Cut, who may choose to patronise, on a given night, the Eoyal Alexandrina Theatre, with his wife, family, and suite, may here buy beer, and borrow a bottle to hold it, wherewith to regale himself between the acts, the standing order of the theatre as to 'No bottles allowed,' notwithstanding. Then there is the equestrian theatrical house, also, over the water, where you may see fiercely moustachioed gentlemen, who clank spurs, and flourish horsewhips, after the manner of life- guardsmen off duty ; who swear fearfully, and whose grammar is defective ; who affect a great contempt for actors, whom they term ' mummies,' and who should be in polite parlance denominated ' equestrian performers,' but are generally, by a discerning but somewhat too familiar public, known as * horse- riders.' There are, of course, different cliques and coteries holding their little discussions, and conserving their little prejudices and antipathies, their likings and dislikings, in the various classes of theatrical publics ; but there is common to them all a floating population of old play-goers, superannuated pantomimists, decayed prompters, actors out of engagement, and order-hunters and actor-haunters. Ramble on again, wheels of Barclay's dray; clatter, ye harness, and crack, ye loud-sounding whips ; and let us leave the world theatrical for the world pictorial. Let us see the Arts on tap ! VII. PHASES OF 'PUBLIC' LIFE. CHAPTER II. IN a suburban locality, mostly, shall you find the artistic public-house. There is nothing essentially to distinguish it from other houses of entertainment. Indeed, by day, were it PHASES OF < PUBLIC' LIFE. 81 not for the presence, perhaps, of an old picture or two in the bar, and a bran-new sacred piece by young Splodger ' Madonna col Bambino ' (models Mrs. Splodger and Master W. Splodger), with an intensely blue sky, a preternaturally fat Bambino, and a Madonna with a concentrated sugar-candyish sweetness of expression were it not for these, you would be puzzled to discover that the arts had anything to do with this class of public. But after eight o'clock at night, or so, the smoking- room is thronged with artists, young and old : gray-headed professors of the old school, who remember Stothard, and have heard Fuseli lecture ; spruce young fellows who have studied in Paris, or have just come home from Italy, full of Horace Vernet, Paul Delaroche, the loggie and stanze of the Vatican, the Pitti Palace, and the Grand Canal; moody disciples of that numerous class of artists known as the ' great unappre- ciated,' who imagine that when they have turned their shirt- collars down, and their lips up, grown an enormous beard and moustache, "and donned an eccentric felt hat, all is done that can be done by art, theoretical, practical, and sesthetical, and that henceforward it is a burning and crying shame if their pictures are not hung ' on the line ' in the Exhibition of the Royal Academy, or if the daily papers do not concur in a unanimous pa3an of praise concerning their performances. Very rarely condescends also to visit the artists' public that trans- cendent genius Mr. Cimabue Giotto Smalt, one of the P.P.P.B. or * Prse-painting and Perspective Brotherhood.' Mr. Smalt, in early life, made designs for ' The Ladies' Gazette of Fashion,' and was suspected also of contributing the vigorous and highly- coloured illustrations to ' The Hatchet of Horrors' that excellent work published in penny numbers by Skull, of Horrorwell Street. Subsequently awakening, however, to a sense of the hollowiiess of the world, and the superiority of the early Italian school over all others, he laid in a large stock of cobalt, blue, gold leaf, small wooden German dolls, and glass eyes, and commenced that course of study which has brought him to the proud position he now holds as a de- votional painter of the most esthetic acerbity and the most orthodox angularity. He carefully unlearned all the drawing and perspective which his kind parents had been at some trouble and expense to have him taught ; he studied the human figure from his German dolls, 'expression from his col- lection of glass eyes, drapery from crumpled sheets of foolscap paper, colour from judiciously selected morceaux (in panel), such 82 GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. as Barclay and Perkins's blue board, and the ' Eed Lion 'at Brentford. He paints shavings beautifully, sore toes fault- lessly. In his great picture of St. Laurence, the bars of the gridiron, as branded on the saint's flesh, are generally con- sidered to be masterpieces of finish and detail. Some critics prefer his broad and vivid treatment of the boils in his picture of 'Job scraping himself (the potsherd exquisitely rendered), exhibited at the Academy last year, and purchased by the Dowager Lady Grillo of Pytchley. He dresses in a sort of clerico-German style, cuts his hair very short, sighs continu- ally, and wears spectacles. No Mondays, Tuesdays, or Wed- nesdays, are there in his calendar. The days of the week are all Feasts of St. Somebody, or Eves of something, with him. When he makes out his washing-bill, his laundress is puzzled to make out what ' shyrtes ' and ' stockynges ' mean, for so he writeth them down ; and when he wanted to let his second floor, not one of the passers-by could for the life of them understand the wondrous placard he put forth in h'is parlour- window, the same being an illuminated scroll, telling in red, blue, and gold hieroglyphics of something dimly resembling this : PVRNISHED CHAMBERES MATE ON YE UPPER FLOOR BEE HADDE. Pipes are in great request in the smoking-room of the artists' public fancy pipes of elaborate workmanship and ex- traordinary degrees of blackness. The value of a pipe seems to increase as its cleanliness diminishes. Little stumpy pipes, the original cost of which was one halfpenny, become, after they have been effectually fouled and smoke-blackened, pearls beyond price few content themselves with a simple yard of clay something more picturesque more moyen age. Chrome, who paints c still life ' nicely, fruit and flowers, and so on, (his detractors say apples, oranges, and bills of the play,) smokes a prodigious meerschaum, warranted to be from the Danube, crammed with Hungarian tobacco, and formerly the property of the Waywode of Widdin. Scumble (good in old houses and churches) inhales the fumes of a big pipe with a porcelain bowl, purchased in the Dom-Platz of Aix-la-Chapelle, and having Saladin and all his paladins depicted thereon. The black cutty, patronised by Bristley (son of Sir Hogg Bristley, E.A.) f has been his constant companion in the adventurous sketching journeys he has undertaken was with him when PHASES OF ' PUBLIC' LIFE. 83 Tinder sentence of fusillation for sketching a droschky in the Nevski Perspective at Petersburgh ; when lion-hunting in Caffreland; nay, it is suspected, even lay quiescent in lii.s pocket when hunted as a lion here, on his return. In the further corner, sits, as perpetual vice-chairman, the famous Nobbs. Nobbs was gold medallist and travelling student of the Eoyal Academy in the year Thirty-four. He has been a blockhead ever since. He has never painted a picture worth looking at ; . nor, I seriously believe, were you to lock him in a room with a pencil and a piece of paper, could he draw a pint pot from recollection. Yet hath he covered roods, perches, acres of tinted paper, with studies from the antique and the life ; set him before a statue, with drawing-board, crayons, compasses, and plumb-line complete, and he will give you every hair of Moses's beard, every muscle of the Discobolus ; give him a Eaphael or a Titian to copy, and he will produce a duplicate so exact that you would be puzzled to tell the ancient from the modern. Storyteller in ordinary, historiographer, and undisputed nautical authority, is Jack Bute, who is supposed, once upon a time, to have painted Lord Nelson's portrait, and who, on strength of that one achievement, has been a famous man ever since. Who would not be proud of standing fourpenn'orth to Jack Bute ? Jack has been a sail or, too, a gallant sailor. ' I was at Algiers, sir,' he says, * and fit there ' he always says fit. 4 1 was among the boarders, and the only difficulty I had was in shaking the Algerine blackguards off my boarding- pike, I spitted so many of them,' Sometimes an over-sense of his dignity,, and an over-dose of gin and water, make Jack quarrelsome and disagreeable ; sometimes he is maudlin, and can only ejaculate ' Nelson ' ' Fourpenn'orth ' amid floods of tears. The artists' i public ' is generally hard-by a ' life school,' or institution where adult artists meet nocturnally to study the numaii figure, animals &c., from the life. One of the standing patterns or text-books of the school is quietly standing in front of the house now, in the shape of a symmetrically-shaped donkey, which Bill Jones, its master, the costermonger, is very happy (for a consideration) to lend to the life school to be ' drawed' at night, after the patient animal has been draw- ing all day. Another pattern is refreshing himself with mild porter at the bar, being no other, indeed, than the well-known Caravaggio Potts, Artiste -modele, as he styles himself. He began G 2 84 ' GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. life as Jupiter Tonans, subsequently passed through the Twelve Apostles, and is now considered to be the best Belisarius in the model world. His wife was the original Venus Callipyge, of Tonks, E.A., but fluctuates at present between Yolunmia and Mrs. Primrose. The landlord of the artists' inn knows all about the exhibi- tions, what days they open, and what days they shut who ought to have been hung ' on the line,' who the prize-holders in the Art Union are, and what pictures they are likely to select for their prizes. Were you to enter the sitting-room, you would be astonished at the number of portraits, full- length, half-length, three-quarter-length, in oil, water-colour, and crayons, of himself, his wife, children, and relations gene- rally, which adorn that apartment. Has the blushing canvas blotted out the sins of the slate ? Between art and literature there is a very strong band of union (becoming stronger every day, I trust), and I would step at once from the artists' tavern to the literary tavern, were I not enabled to save time and our chariot steeds by re- maining awhile in Camden Town, where two or three varie- ties of Public life yet remain to be noticed ; for, in this lo- cality uplifts its lofty head ' The Railway Tavern ;' here, also, is the c house ' frequented by veterinary surgeons ; here, the hostelry affected by medical students. A brief word we must have with each of them. Hope wild, delusive, yet comfortable hope baked the bricks and hardened the mortar of which the Eailway Tavern was built. Its ,contiguity to a railway station appeared to its sanguine projector a sufficient guarantee for immense success. He found out what the fallacies of hope were, before he had done building. He hanged himself. To him enters an enter- prising licensed victualler, formerly of the New Cut, w r ho ob- tained a transient meed of success by an announcement of the sale within of ' Imperial black stuff, very nobby.' Every- body was anxious to taste the c Imperial black stuff,' and for some days the Eailway Tavern was thronged; but the public found out that the mixture was not only very nobby, but very nasty, and declined a renewal of the draught. The next pro- prietor was a fast gentleman , which may account for his having gone so very "fast into ' The Gazette ;' although he always attri- buted his ruin to his having had a great many pewter pots stolen, which he subsequently unwittingly received again in the guise of bad half-crowns. For years the Eailway Tavern PHASES OF 'PUBLIC' LIFE. 85 stood, big, white, deserted-looking, customerless ; but a new neighbourhood gradually arose round the station ; front streets gradually generated back streets ; back streets begot courts and alleys. There is a decent assemblage of customers, now, at the bar ; a fair coffee-room connection, and a very numerous parlour company, composed of guards and engine-drivers ; strongly perfumed with lamp-oil, who call the locomotives 'she/ the company ' they,' and each other 'mate.' Though it has been built some years, the Railway Tavern has yet an appearance of newness. The paint seems wet, the seats un- worn, and the pots unbattered. The doors have not that com- fortable, paint-worn manginess about the handle common to public-house portals in frequented neighbourhoods. The Railway Tavern always reminds me of the one hotel in a small Irish town that square, white, many-windowed, un- comfortable-looking edifice, frowning at the humble, ram- shackle little chapel, awing the pigs and embellishing the landscape ; but seldom troubled with custom or customers. Out of the way, lumbering drink-dray of ours, and let this smart gig, with the fast-trotting mare braced up very tight in the shafts thereof, rattle by ! In the vehicle sits a gentleman with a very shiny hat, a very long shawl, and an indefinite quantity of thick great-coats, from the pocket of one of which peep a brace of birds. The gig is his ' trap,' and the fast- trotting mare is his mare Fanny, and he himself is Mr. Sand- cracks, of the firm of Sandcracks and Windgall, veterinary surgeons. He is going to refresh Fanny with some meal and water, and himself with some brandy and ditto, at the Horse and Hocks, a house especially favoured and frequented by veterinary surgeons, and the walls of whose parlour (the H. and H.) are decorated with portraits of the winners of ever so manyDerbys, and some curious anatomical drawings of horses. The frequenters of the H. and H. are themselves curious com- pounds of the sporting character and the surgeon. You will find in the bar, or behind it (for they are not particular), or in the parlour, several gentlemen, with hats as shiny, shawls as long, and coats as multifarious, as Mr. Sandcracks', discours- ing volubly, but in a somewhat confusing manner, of dogs, horses, spavins, catch-weights ; the tibia and theflfibiila, handi- caps, glanders, the state of the odds, and comparative anatomy. They will bet on a horse and bleed him with equal pleasure back him, dissect him, do almost everything with him that can be done with a horse. They must work hard and earn money ; 86 - GASLIGHT AND DAYLIGHT. yet to my mind they always seem to be driving the fast-trot- ting mare in the smart gig to or from the Horse and Hocks. Medical men don't enter into my category of ' public ' users. They have their red port wine at home. The Medical students' public is never known by its sign. It may be the Grapes, or the Fox, or the Magpie and Stump, but it is always distin- guished among the students as Mother So-and-so's, or Old "What-d'ye-call-him's. The students generally manage to drive all other customers away. Nor chair, nor benches nay, nor settles, are required for the students' parlour. They prefer sitting on the tables ; nor do they want glasses they prefer pint pots ; consuming even gin and water from those bright flagons : nor do they need spittoons, nor pictures on the walls, nor bagatelle-boards. If I wonder how the veterinary surgeon finds time to prac- tise, how much greater must be my dubiety as to how the medical students find time to study! The pipe, the pot of half and half, the half-price to the theatre, the Cider-cellars to follow, and the knocker-twisting gymnastics to follow that (with, sometimes, the station-house by way of rider), appear to nil up their whole time to leave not a point unoccupied upon the circle of their daily lives. Yet, work they must, and work they do. The smoking, drinking, fighting life, is but an ordeal somewhat fiery, it is true from which have come unscathed Doctor Bobus, rolling by in his fat chariot ; Mr. Slasher, ready to cut off all and each of my limbs, in the cause of science, at St. Spry's Hospital ; but, from which have crawled, singed, maimed, blackened, half- consumed, poor Jack Fleam (he sang a good song did Jack, and was a widow's son), now fain to be a new policeman ; and Coltsfoot, the clinical clerk at Bar- tholomew's, who died of delirium tremens on his passage to Sydney. On again we roll, and this time we leave the broad suburban roads, furzed with trim cottages and gardens white cottage bonnets with green ribbons for crowded streets again. If you want to back Sally for the Chester Cup, or Hippopotamus for the double event, or to get any information on any sporting subject, where can you get it better, fresher, more authentic, than in one ; of the sporting-houses, of which I dare say I am - not very far out if I say there are a hundred in London ? Not houses where sporting is casually spoken of, but where it is the staple subject of conversation, business, and pleasure to , the whole of the establishment, from the landlord to the potboy. PHASES OF ' PUBLIC' LIFE. 87 Let us take one sporting-house as a type. Dozens of pictures Derby winners, Dog Billys, the Godolphin Arabian ; Snaffle, the jockey ; Mr. Tibbs, the trainer (presented to him by a numerous circle of,.