\ THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CAU^ORNIA LOSAI JELES £3-'^j ♦is \- / THE INDIA DIRECTORY, ^C. 4'C. / THE INDIA DIRECTORY, OB, DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING TO AND FROM THE EAST INDIES, CHINA, AUSTRALIA, AND THE INTERJACENT PORTS OF AFRICA AND SOUTH AMERICA: COMPILED CHIEFLY FROM ORIGINAL JOURNALS OF THE HONOURABLE COMPANY'S SHIPS, AND FROM OBSERVATIONS AND REMARKS, EESULTIXG FROJI THE EXPERIENCE OF TWENTY-ONE YEARS IN THE NAVIGATION OF THOSE SEAS. BY JAMES HORSBURGH, F.R.S. R.A.S. R.G.S. CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES, ST. PETERSBUHGH ; AND OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF NORTHERN ANTIQUARIES, COPENHAGEN; HYDROGRAPHER TO THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY. They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters ; these see the norks of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep. — Psalm cvii. v. 23, 24. VOLUME FIRST. FIFTH EDITION. LONDON: Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO., BoofeStrUrS to tijc S^onourablf rtjc dBaiUintiia Company, 7, LEADENHALL STREET. 1841. C?ntcrfti at *tationcr$' m^ll Printed by J. L. Cox & Sons, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincnhi's-Inii FieUis. /HI TO THE HONOURABLE THE COURT OF DIRECTORS EAST INDIA COMPANY, The Fifth Edition of the late Captain Horsburgh's Sailing Directions is respectfully inscribed, in grateful remembrance of their distinguished patron- age of the Author's labours to promote the safety of navigation, by HIS FAMILY. London, June, 1841. O ^ A '2 11GB115 PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. The long acknowledged value of the late Captain Horsbiiigh's East India Direc- tory, while it has afforded to the Editor a powerful motive for using his best eflbrts to maintain undiminished its just reputation, has at the same time rendered it unne- cessary for him to offer any thing more by way of preface, than a brief notice of those points iu which this Fifth Edition will be found to differ from the preceding editions. The general plan of the work has of course been sedulously preserved ; but where any alteration in the mere arrangement of the details seemed likely to promise either greater perspicuity in the directions, or increased facility of reference, it has been deemed advisable to adopt it. These alterations will chiefly appear in the division and order of a few of the chapters,— in the more careful restriction of each subject to its respective division, — and in the addition of a running title at the head of each page. It has also been thought that it would be useful to the mariner to make all the bearings Magnetic; for although the system adopted in the former editions, of employing tlie compass for winds and courses, and the true rhumbs for bearings and currents, might have had its advantages, yet this distinction might not be always remembered in the hurried consultation of the book in moments of anxiety and danger. Captain Horsburgh's Introduction remains unaltered, except in that part of it relating to the subject of Local Attraction, wiiich in this edition the Editor has en- deavoured to adapt to the present more advanced state of the science of Magnetism, and to illustrate by the introduction of some easy rules, now commonly employed by seamen. It is also necessary to state that the Editor has availed himself of much important information, which would assuredly have been adopted by the candid and vigilant PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. author had his life been spared. For instance — the positions on the Coast of Brazil have been corrected from the surveys of Baron Roussin, Captain Fitz-Roy, and others. Those of the Canary Islands and the Western Coast of Africa, from the Admiralty surveys recently completed by Captain Vidal. A slight change has also been made in the longitudes of the Eastern Coast of Africa, as it appears that Captain Owen, whose authority is every where cited by Captain Horsburgh, had assumed the longitude of the Cape of Good Hope five minutes less than that which has been subsequently established at the Royal Observatory of that place. Elaborate directions for the navigation of the Red Sea, by Captains Moresby and Elwon, of the Indian Navy, lately published by the Honourable East India Company, have, by the liberal permission of the Court of Directors, been transferred to this work verbatim ; and much additional information on the coast of Arabia, the Persian Gulf, the River Indus, and the Maldiva Islands, has been added from the admirable surveys conducted under their autliority by the officers of the Indian Navy. A minute description of the South- West and South coasts of Ceylon, by Mr. Twynam, the Master Attendant at Point de Galle, has also been inserted ; as well as several contributions to the hydrography of the West and North-west Coasts of Aus- tralia, and of Bass's Straits, by Captain Wickhara, of H.M.S. Beagle, under whose direction the Admiralty survey of those distant regions is now proceeding. In conclusion — the intimate knowledge of this work which the Editor has necessa- rily acquired in preparing it for the press, will perhaps exonerate him from apparent jjresumption in here adding his testimony to the just and general opinion of its great merits ; — and in expressing his conviction that the vast accumulation of facts, toge- ther with the sound and seamanlike advice and directions which it contains, cannot fail to render the India Directory an enduring monument of the unwearied industry, skilful resources, and sagacious judgment, of its celebrated author. PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. In submitting a Fouitli Edition of this Sailing Directory to the public, and to those Navigators who frequent the Oriental Seas and adjacent parts, the author returns his sincere thanks for their candid reception of the former editions of his work, and he trusts that the present will be found still more worthy of public confidence. To correcting and enlarging the Second Edition with useful information, from dis- coveries made after the original publication of the India Directory, he devoted a great portion of his time ; the result of which will be perceived, by reference to the foUovving localities, the descriptions of which have either been re-written, with many important additions, or comprising original materials. Geographical situations of the principal harbours and headlands on the Coasts of Spain and Portugal, with directions. — Canary Islands. — Coast of Guinea, and West Coast of Africa. — Chief Harbours on the Coast of Brazil, and Rio de la Plata. — Bouvet's Island. — Gough's Island. — Tristan de Acunha. — Bird Islands, and Dodding- ton Rock, and Knysna in South Africa. South Coast of Terra Australis, and Bass' Strait. — Africa, East, and North-East Coasts to the Red Sea, and Arabian Coast. — Island Mazeira. — Gulf of Persia, nearly all re- written, greatly enlarged, and cor- rected from late surveys. — Aldabra Islands, true situation ascertained. Several late discovered Shoals, and geographical limits of Saya de Malha Bank. — Maldiva Islands, their principal Channels elucidated, and lost knowledge restored, from original journals and other documents. — Directions for Marmagoa Road. Gulf of Manar. — Great and Little Basses, Ceylon. — Hooringottah River, Bengal. — Directions for Sail- ing between Malacca Strait, Bengal, and Madras ; with many other useful observa- tions and directions. In the Third Edition, much important information was added to the preceding one, and many valuable discoveries elucidated, among which were the following. True geographical position of Funchal. — Cape de Verde Islands, and several parts on the West Coast of Africa, from late surveys. — ^Table Bay, Cape Good Hope. — Algoa Bay, and several places on the East Coast of Africa. — North-West and PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. Northern Coasts of New IloUand, entirely new. Geographical position and description of tiie Islands and dangers in the Seychelle and Madagascar Seas, mostly all re-written from late explorations and surveys. — Shoals in the Red Sea. — Geographical positions of Headlands on the South Coast of Arabia. In the Persian Gulf, the Eastern Coast of Arabia described, with the correct situations of the Headlands, Towns, Islands, and Dangers adjacent, from the late laborious surveys performed by the officers of the India Navy ; the whole of this coast having been formerly unknown to European navigators. This Fourth Edition, now submitted to the public, has been enriched with so much valuable matter, extracted from recent marine surveys, as probably to render it a Standard Work for Oriental Navigation ; for the author's constant aim has been, (luring many years of unremitted attention and researclj, to render it as perfect as possible. The whole of the Coasts of South, East, and West Africa, Madagascar, Mozambique Channel, and adjacent dangers, have been improved, from the able survey of those parts, by Captain W. F. VV. Owen, of the Royal Navy, during four years of great exertion and privation. The Coast of Persia along the East side the Gulf, the South Coast, or Coast of Mukran ; the Coasts of Scind at Kattiwar have been des- cribed from late surveys of the officers of the Indian Navy, together with those of So- cotra^nd the Red Sea, from the beautiful survey of these localities, now finished, by the same officers. The Eastern Coasts of the Bay of Bengal, and the adjacent Islands, have been improved from the correct surveys of Captain D. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor. The geographical positions of the Coasts of Malabar and Coro- niandel have been corrected from the Great Trigonometrical Survey of Hindoostan, The Eastern Coast of China has been described, and its navigation elucidated, together with a new chart of that coast, from a selection of manuscripts and other materials the author has obtained from Canton, or otherwise ; chiefly the result of observations made in vessels which frequent that coast, and carry on a contraband trade in opium. With these additions, and the diligence used in precluding every species of error, the author hopes that the utility of the India Sailing Directory to British seamen may prove as great as his wishes for their safety and the nautical prosperity of this Great Maritime Empire. CONTENTS. Page Page INTRODUCTION i Velocity of the Wind xi Wind ... ib. Waves of the Sea xii Trade Winds ... ib. Luminous Appeai-ance of the Sea ... ... xiii Monsoons or Periodical Winds ... iii Temperature of the Sea XV Variable Winds ... V Currents or Tides ... xvi Land and Sea Breezes ... ib. Magnetism ... ... xvii Squalls vi Variation of the Compass ... xix Storms and Hurricanes ... vii Aberration or Local Attraction ... ib. Whirlwinds viii Chronometers . . . XXX Marine Barometer ix Precautionary Remarks . . . xxxi Change of the Moon xi Explanatory Remarks ...xxxiii ENGLAND towards Madeira ; places of shelter near this route ... From Madeira to the southward : Canaries, and Cape de Verdes Salvages, A Table denoting the Equatorial Limits of the Trade Winds between Africa and America experienced in every month of the year , 22 Abstracts and Remarks on Passages to and from St. Helena ... ... 41 Eastern Passage ... ... ... ib. Western Passage ... ... ... 47 Comparative View of Passages ... ... 49 West Coast of Africa and adjacent Islands, with the Winds and Currents ... ... 51 Coast and Islands ... ... ... ib. Winds and Currents ... ... ... 56 Brazil Coast ... ... ... ... 59 Headlands and Harbours ... ... ib. Winds and Currents ... ... ... 67 Passages of Ships ... ... ... 68 Instructions and Observations for Navigating the Rio de la Plata, or River Plate ... 70 From the Coast of Brazil towards the Cape of Good Hope 80 Passage across ... ... ... ... ib. Islands near the Route ... ... ... 81 Cape of Good Hope ... Cape and Bank of Agulhas ... Description of the Coast and Bank Currents ... Winds, Weather, and Doubtful Dangers, with Remarks on Ice Islands near the Bank of Agulhas Winds and Weather Doubtful Dangers Ice Islands From the Cape of Good Plope towards Bass o crciiL .••■ ••• ••• ••• ■■• Islands in the Southern Ocean ... South Coast of Australia Winds and Currents a 84 97 ib. 9S 101 ib. 103 106 108 ib. 115 121 i CONTENTS. West and N.W. Coasts of Australia Page 123 From St. Paul towards China by the Pas- sages East of Java, with a Description of the N.W. Coast of Australia 133 The Passage ... ... ... ... ib. Coast and Islands ... ... ... 136 Islands to the soutliwai-d and south-eastward of Java, tlie adjacent Straits and South Coast of Java, with Directions to sail from St. Paul Island to the Strait of Sunda ... 142 Islands to the southward and south-east- ward of Java ... ... ... ... ib. Passage from St. Paul to Sunda Strait ... 149 The Outer Passage to places on either side the Bay of Bengal 152 Prevailing winds ... ... ... ib. Passage to the Bay of Bengal ... ... 153 Passage to Madras ... ... ... 154 From the Cape of Good Hope towards Bom- bay, Ceylon, and Bengal ... ... 156 Passage to the eastward of Madagascar ... 159 From the Cape of Good Hope to the Islands of Bourbon, Mauritius, and Rodrigue, and from thence towards India ... ... 161 Passage to Bourbon, &c. ... ... ib. Description of Rodrigue, Mauritius, and Bourbon ... ... ... ... ib. Passage to India .. ... 169 East Coast of Madagascar ... 170 Islands and Dangers N. E. and North of Madagascar 178 Chagos Archipelago ... 199 Mozambique Channel 209 West and N.W. Coasts of Madagascar ... ib. Winds and Currents 226 The Channel Passage ... ... ... 227 Comoro Islands and adjacent Dangers ... 229 From the Comoro Islands towards India ... 236 Dangers n,. Passages of Ships, shewing Winds and Currents ... ... ... ... ;§. Directions ... ... ... ... 238 South Coast of Africa, from Cape Agidhas to Algoa Bay 039 Page Coast of Africa, from Algoa Bay to Cape Corrientes ... ... 248 Coast of Africa, from Cape Corrientes to Mozambique 254 Coast of Africa, from Mozambique to the Equator 264 Coast of Africa from the Equator to Ras Jar d'Afoon, with the Island of Socotra ... 282 Coast of Africa, from Ras Jar d'Afoon to the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb 293 Sailing Directions for the Red Sea ... 298 Introduction ... ... ... ... ib. Abstract of Chronometric Measurements 299 Sailing Directions from the Strait of Bab- el-Mandeb to Mocha 300 Approaching Mocha .. ... ... 301 From Jibbel Seajarn to Ras Billool ... ib. Islands and Rocks between Ras Billool and Jibbel Zoogur 303 Islands and Rocks adjacent to Great Har- nish Islands ... ... ... ... ib. Islands and Rocks between Ras Billool and Jibbel Zoogur ... ... ... 304 Coast of Yemen from Mocha to Loheia ... ib. Zebayer Islands ... 307 Coast of Yembo from Loheia to Ras Toor- fah 308 Coast of Arabia from Ras Toorfah to Coorafidah ... ... .. ... 315 Coast of the Hedjaz from Coomfidah to Leet ... 319 from Leet to Jid- dah 323 Coast of Arabia from Jiddah to Tirahn Island 328 Straits of Jubal and Gulf of Suez ... 335 Coast of Abyssinia from P.as Billool to Ras Hurub and thence to Coobach ... 340 Eastern and Northern Islands on the Dhalac Bank 344 Southern and Western Islands ... ... 347 Core Nowarah ... ... ... ... 351 Inner Channel to Suakin ... ... ... 352 Coast of Nubia from Suakin to Core Dullow 355 Outer Reefs and Inner Channel ... ... 359 Coast of Nubia and Egypt from Core Shenab to Shadwan Island ... ... 360 Gulfof Akabah 364 Shoals in the Centre of the Red Sea ... 365 Centre Cliannel of the Red Sea 366 Inner Channels ^— ... ... ib. CONTENTS. Page Channels from the Centre to the Inner Channels ... ... ... ... 367 Winds and Weather in Centre and Inner Channels 368 Tides and Currents ... ... ... ib. Winds and Currents between Suez and Jiddah, by Capt. Moresby 369 Winds and Currents of the Red Sea, by Commander Rogers ... ... ... 370 Signification of Words used in Directions for the Red Sea 371 Additional Remarks on the Red Sea ... 372 Directions and Descriptions ... ... ib. Winds and Currents 375 Passages to and from the Red Sea ... ... 376 Coast of Arabia from the entrance of the Red Sea to Misenaat in Ion. 50° 43' E. ... 380 Coast of Arabia from Misenaat to Ras-el- Had, and thence to the Entrance of the Persian Gulf 391 Persian Gulf 40/ Arabian side ... ... ... ... ib. Persian side ... ... ... ... 432 Passage from the Persian Gulf to the Mala- bar Coast 453 Approaching Bombay Harbour in the S.W. Monsoon 455 Bombay Harbour ... ... ... ... 456 Islands and Remarkable Hills ... ... ib. Dangers, with Marks to avoid them ... 459 Tides, Soundings, Ike. ... ... ... 463 Directions for entering the Harbour ... 464 Directions for Working into the Harbour at night... ... ... ... ... 465 Directions for Working out of the Harbour 467 Coast of India from Bombay to Surat River 468 Gulf of Cambay and Banks near the Entrance 474 Coast and Dangers ... ... ... ib. Directions ... ... 476 Guzarat or Kattiwar Coast and the Gulf of Cutch 478 Goapnaut Point to Dwarka ... ... ib. Gulf of Cutch 480 Passages from India to Muscat, and to the Entrance of the Persian Gulf 483 Page Coasts of Sinde and Persia, including the River Indus ... ... ... ... 486 South Coast of Persia from Ras Mooarree to Cape Jask ; called the Coast of Muk- ran ... ... ... ... ... 493 Western Coast of India from Bombay to Cape Comorin ... ... ... ... ... 498 Coast of Concan ... ... ... ib. Coast of Canara ... ... ... 506 Coast of Malabar 510 Directions to Sail from Bombay to the South- ward in the S.W. monsoon ... ... 519 Monsoons, Land and Sea Breezes and Cur- rents on the western side of Hindoostan, with General Directions ... ... ... 521 Laccadiva Islands, and the adjacent Banks, with the Nine and Eight Degree Channels 526 The Maldiva Islands 533 The Atolls and Minor Channels ... 535 Principal Channels ... ... ... 539 Minor Channels ... ... ... 541 GulfofManar ... ... ... ... Uj. Ceylon, West Coast, from Manar to Point de Galle 546 Ceylon, South Coast, from Point de Galle to Elephant Hill ; with the Great and Little xjasses ... ... ... ... ... oo f General Remarks on the South-west and South Coast of Ceylon, by Mr. Twynam 569 Eastern Coast of Ceylon, from Elephant Hill to Trincomalee, with Sailing Direc- tions ... ... ... ... ... ib. Trincomalee Harbour and Bays ... ... 573 Ceylon, North-east and North Coasts, from Trincomalee to Point Pedro 579 Palk Bay, with the Winds and Currents on the East Coast of Ceylon 582 Palk Bay ib. Winds and Currents ... ... ... 584 Coast of Coromandel, from Point Calymere to Madras 586 CONTENTS. Page I Coast of Coromandel from Madras to tlie Nortliward Coast of Golconda ... ... Coast of Orixa ... ... ... Entrance of the Hoogly or Calcutta River Sands, Reefs, and Islands Entrance Channels 597 599 605 613 ib. 617 Directions for approaching the Hoogly River 622 Directions for sailing from False Point to the Sand Heads and to Sagor Road ... ... Storms in and near the Hoogly, with some account of the Tides and the Bore of that River ... Coast of Bengal from Codgee Deep to Chit- tagong, and the interjacent Rivers Monsoons and Currents in the Gulf of Ben- gal Passage to Bengal, from the Southern parts of the Gulf ... ... ... ... From Bengal to Madras and the Southern parts of the Gulf ... From the Gulf of Bengal to Bombay or other CQo places to the westward, during the South- ~ west Monsoon ... ... ... ... 634 Passage between Bengal or Madras and the Strait of Malacca ... Page 637 642 648 650 654 657 INTRODUCTION. COMi'ENDIUM OF WINDS, WAVES, TIDES, CURRENTS, MAGNETISM, VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, &c. PARTICULAR, OR LOCAL WINDS, WEATHER, AND CURRENTS, are described in the different parts of this work, to which the reader is referred ; yet it may, nevertheless, be expedient to give here a snmmary view of the winds in general, with some remarks on the causes which usually produce those which prevail with more or less regularity on the surface of our globe. WIND is a current of air, or a part of our atmosphere, in a state of more or less principal rapid motion ; its principal cause is a partial or local rarefaction of the air by heat. ^"."^^ "' When the air is heated, it becomes specifically lighter, and in this state naturally ascending, the less rarefied or colder air rushing into its place to restore the equili- brium, forms a current of air, or what is properly called wind. Heat also increases evaporation, by which the atmosphere is rendered more elastic, and capable of re- taining a greater quantity of moisture in the gaseous state than it can when colder; this may be considered as another cause tending to produce diversity in winds and weather, as an addition of moisture expands in the air, and renders it specifically lighter than it would be at the same temperature with humid vapour. Electricity must be considered as a third cause acting on the atmosphere, and having great influence in the local changes of v\inds and weather. Currentsof air are always produced by the passage of electric matter; and when the atmosphere is expanded by the presence of the electric fluid, and surcharged with aqueous vapour, it is incapable of supporting a great quantity of the latter, which consequently descends in wet fogs or rain, while the denser and more elastic air near the rainy district rushes towards it, to restore the equilibrium. Winds may be arranged under three distinct heads; Constant, Periodicctl, and Characierof Variable. Constant Winds are those which blow always in the same direction, and are called Trade Winds. Periodical Winds, or those which blow one part of the year in one direction and the other part in a contrary one, are generally called Mon- soons. Variable Winds are those which are not subject to any determinate periods or uniformity. TRADE WINDS seem to be occasioned by the rotatory motion of the earth on Tradt winds. its axis, combined with the influence of the sun in rarefying the atmosphere between b ii INTRODUCTION. tlie tropics. The cold dense air at the poles woiikl naturally move along the surface (){ tiie "lobe to take the ])lace of the hot rarehed air at the equator; but the earth's rotatory motion, and tlie gradually increasing velocity of this motion at its surface from the poles to the ecjuator, oblige these polar currents of air to diverge from their meri- dians on their route to the equator, and ultimately to acquire a direction from East to West. From the rotation of the earth, the sun's apparent diurnal motion is from East to West ; consequently, the points of greatest rarefaction, which are those under the sun, must move in continued succession in the same direction with that luminary. The places, therefore, of greatest rarefaction following the sun from East to West, the denser air must move towards them, and thus occasion a constant easterly wind in the ocean remote from land between the tropics. Hence, by the dense air proceeding from the polar regions in a northerly and south- erly direction towards the equator, and afterwards more westerly towards the points of greatest rarefaction, a N.E. wind is produced on the North side, and a S.E. wind on the South side of the equator. These trade winds, both in their direction and limits, incline towards the sun or place of greatest rarefaction; that is, when the sun is near the tropic of Cancer, or returning from it, having greatly heated the northern hemi- .sphere, the S.E. trade wind inclines further from the East point than in the opposite season, and blows with strength towards the place of greatest rarefaction ; and its northern limit reaches nearly to, and in some places, beyond the equator. Tlie N.E. trade wind, at the same time, generally inclines nearer the east point than in the other season, blowing with less strength, and becoming contracted in its limits ; the southern limit then receding several degrees to the northward of the equator. And in the op- posite season, when the southern hemisphere is greatly heated by the sun, the N.E. trade wind blows stronger, inclines farther from the East point, and approaches nearer to the equator ; the strength of the S.E. trade wind, at the same time, being diminished considerably by the influence of the sun. As there is a perjjetual current of air proceeding from the Polar regions to the equator, where it is rarefied, while the superior gravity of the cold makes the heated air ascend to the upper regions of the atmosphere, whence it returns to the poles, to preserve the equilibrium, this upper current of air must proceed from the parts in which the heat is greatest, so that by a kind of atmospherical circulation, admirably adapted to the preservation of animal life, the N.E. trade wind below will be attended by a S.W. wind above ; and the S.E. trade wind below with a N.W. wind above. This opinion is corroborated by the clouds in the upper part of the atmosphere being frequently seen to move in a direction contrary to the trade winds, and by an in- stantaneous change of wind often experienced when the limits of the trade winds are passed. Trade winds are only constant in the ocean at a considerable distance from land ; for large islands and continents obstruct the regular currents of the atraosphei'e, and thereby produce either periodical or variable winds. When land is heated by the influence of the sun, the atmosphere over it becomes rarefied, the air acquires motion, and a wind is produced, blowing from the ocean towards the land. This may be exem- plified by the winds on the African coasts, within the limits of the N.E. trade, blowing often from North and N.W. about Cape de Verde; and from S.W. and S.S.W. betwixt the Coast of Guinea and the Cape of Good Hope, within the limits of the S.E. trade; instead of N.E. and S.E., as is experienced when well out from the land, in the open ocean. INTRODUCTION. lU When the land of New Holland is heated by the presence of the sun in the southern hemisphere, the wind blows generally from the westward upon the N.W. coast; from the S.VV. upon the West coast; from S.W., South, and S.E., upon the South coast; and from S.E. and eastward upon the East coast of that extensive tract of land. Winds, indeed, blow nearly always from the sea, towards the heated atmosphere over the land ; but contiguous to shores, sea and land breezes are often experienced. High land, much more than low land, obstructs the regular progress of winds ; for a steady trade wind will pass over a considerable tract of low level land without being much changed in its direction or velocity ; particularly if that land be barren and des- titute of moisture. But if the wind come in contact with high land or mountains, it is compressed in passing over their summits; as the atmosphere being heated by the sun's rays according to its density is much warmer at the bottom than at the top of mountains; consequently the air is cooled in its ascent, and being frequently con- densed into humid clouds or fog, is discharged in wet misty vapour, or in small rain, upon the tops of the mountains. This may be often seen on the Table Mountain at the Cape of Good Hope, or on high islands between the tropics, when the sun shines bright below, with clear weather around. The presence of the sun in either hemisphere obstructs considerably the regularity and strength of the trade wind in that hemisphere, and vice versa. The Trade Winds extend generally to about 28° on each side of the equator. Limits of the and there is usually a considerable space between them, in which light variable r™'"^ ^^""'''■ winds prevail mostly from the westward, forming in several parts of the globe, near the equator, a kind of monsoon. The N.E. and S.E. trade winds prevail in the open sea, in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and from the great extent of the latter, they generally blow more steadily in it than in the former ; and the S.E. trade wind in the southern Atlantic Ocean blows more steadily than the N. E. trade wind to the northward of the equator, where the ocean becomes contracted between Cape de Verde and the northern extremity of the coast of Brazil ; but towards the West India Islands, the N.E. trade wind generally blows steadily between East and E.N.E. The S.E. trade wind prevails also in the Indian Ocean, from within a few degrees of the East side of Madagascar nearly to the Coast of New Holland, between the parallels of 10° and 28° S.; but in this ocean, from lat 10° S. to the coasts of India, the winds are periodical. MONSOONS, or PERIODICAL WINDS, are those which blow half of the Monsoon.. year from one quarter, and the other half year from the opposite direction. They blow more steadily in the East Indian Seas than in any other place, particularly to the northward of the equator, from the coast of Africa to the eastern side of the Bay of Bengal; also in the China Sea, but with somewhat less regularity in the northern part of it. The principal cause of these winds is the situation of the land as connected with Their cause. the course of the sun ; for the extensive coasts of Arabia, Persia, India, &c., being greatly heated when the sun is vertical to them, the atmosphere becomes rarefied there, and a S.W. wind blows from the ocean towards the land to restore the equilibrium. This current of air proceeding from the ocean, being highly charged with moisture in the state of gas, is gradually condensed into rain, which descends in great quantities upon the coasts of India that front the ocean in a south-westerly direction. b2 f IV INTRODUCTION. Seasons and plact's in wli ihey prevail S.W. Mon- soon. ich N.E. soon. Mon- N.W. Mon- soon. S.E. Mon- soon. Westerly winds. \ Wlieu the sun returns into the southern hemisphere, the atmosphere there becomes "•reiitlv rarelied, and, by evaporation and cold winds from the northward, the land on The Nortli side of the equator soon parts with its ..heat, and the atmosphere over it becomesden.se; a N.E. wind or monsoon is then produced in North latitude, blowing towards the heated parts about the equator. This is the dry season on the coasts of India for the wind blowing from the land brings fliir weather; and the rainy season is produced by tiie wind blowing from the ocean towards the land, which is generally the case on both sides of the tropics. • • , t ■• Were there an extensive tract of land near the southern tropic in the Indian Ocean, probably a regular N.W. and S.E. monsoon would alternately prevail between that tropic and the equator, similar to the N.E. and S.W. monsoon, in North latitude. This we may suppose would be the case, for although the N.W. monsoon in the open sea seldom extends beyond lat. 8° or 10'' S., yet in the vicinity of the East coast of Madagascar and the N.W. coast of New Holland, that monsoon extends several degrees farther to the southward, by the land being greatly heated when the sun is near the southern tropic. The S.W. monsoon prevails from April to October, between the equator and the tropic of Cancer, and it reaches from the East coast of Africa to the coasts of India, China, and the Philippine Islands ; its influence extends sometimes into the Pacific Ocean as far as the Marian Islands, or to about Ion. 14.5° E., and it reaches as far North as the Japan Islands. In the same season, a S.S.W. monsoon prevails to the southward of the equator in the Mozambique Channel, between the Island of Mada- o-ascar and the coast of Africa, which is occasioned by the conformation of the lands on each side of that channel. The N.E. monsoon prevails from October to May, throughout nearly the same space as that mentioned above ; but the monsoons are subject to great obstructions from land ; and in contracted places, such as Malacca Strait, they are changed into variable winds. Their limits are not every where the same, nor do they always shift exactly at the same period. The N.W. monsoon prevails between the N.E. part of Madagascar and the West coast of New Holland from October to April, and it is generally confined between the equator and 10° or 11° of South latitude, but subject to irregularities. This monsoon seldom blows steadily in the open sea, although in December and January it generally prevails, and in these months sometimes extends from lat. 10° or 12° S. across the equator to lat. 2° or 3° North. This is the rainy monsoon to the southward of the equator, and the S.E. monsoon is the dry season. The S.E. monsoon predominates from April to October in the space last-mentioned, and in some places reaches the equator, when the sun is near the northern tropic; but this monsoon may be considered as an extension of the S.E. trade following the sun, and when that luminary returns to the southern tropic it recedes to lat. 10° or 12° S. The parts where the N.W. and S.E. monsoons prevail with greatest strength and regularity are in the Java Sea, and from thence eastward to Timor, amongst the Mo- lucca and Banda Islands, and onward to New Guinea. Westerly winds are sometimes experienced near the equator, in the Pacific Ocean, a great way to the eastward of New Guinea ; and also in the Atlantic Ocean, westerly winds at times occur near, or a little to the northward, of the equator, forming a coun- ter current to the regular N.E. and S.E. trade winds which prevail on each side of it. INTRODUCTION. V VARIABLE WINDS prevail in both hemispheres from lat. 28° or 30° to the Poles, VariaWe winds. but those from West and W.S.W. generally predominate in North latitudes; and those from West and W.N.W. predominate in South latitudes. The prevalence of westerly winds in high latitudes has been thus accounted for. The upper parts of the atmosphere having a motion towards the Poles, contrary to the trade winds, and becoming condensed beyond their limits, descend to the surface of the earth or sea; thus producing the motion from the West towards the East, to restore the equili- brium which has been destroyed by the trade winds. Immediately beyond the limits of the trade winds, the westerly winds are generally found to prevail.* These westerly winds, in high latitudes, are liable to obstructions and changes from various causes, the influence of the sun being mutable and uncertain in the Temperate Zones ; but beyond the Arctic and Antarctic Circles, where a settled frost and cold atmosphere constantly prevail, strong gales and sudden shifts of wind are not so liable to happen as at a greater distance from the Poles. The sun's presence in either atmosphere has great influence upon the prevailing westerly winds in high latitudes; in the Northern Atlantic Ocean the wind generally inclines to W.S.W. in the summer months ; and in winter, almost constantly to W.N.W. between the coasts of Newfoundland and Ireland. In the British Channel easterly winds often prevail in February, March, April, and part of May; during the other months, westerly winds prevail greatly. On the N.W. coast of America south-westerly winds prevail in the summer months; and northerly winds during winter. In the southern hemisphere, during the summer months, when the sun is near the tropic of Capricorn, the winds are sometimes very variable, but prevail at West and W.N.W. In the winter months they blow mostly from W.S.W. and West, and sometimes from South or S.E. Westerly winds jjrevail off the Cape of Good Hope, Cape Horn, and Cape Van Diemen, particularly when the sun is near the tropic of Cancer; but on the western coasts which form these promontories, the wind frequently prevails from the southward, when it is blowing strong from tlie westward off their extremities. And south-easterly or southerly winds are generally found to prevail more than any other, in February, March, and part of April, in tlie vicinity of those headlands. LAND AND SEA BREEZES may be considered as a kind of alternating winds, Land and Sea which are generally experienced in settled weather upon coasts or islands between the '"^"''*- tropics. They arise from the circumstance of land being a better conductor of heat than water, and consequently being susceptible of a higher degree of temperature by the action of the sun than the sea : this increase of temperature during the day rare- fies the incumbent atmosphere, and a current of colder air rushes in from the sea to supply the deficiency, and forms what is called a sea-breeze. The progress of this breeze is regressive upon the sea, as it commences close to the shore where the motion of the air first inclines to the land, and then gradually extends out to sea; so that * Col. Reid, speaking of Storms in high latitudes, says, " It has been shewn that the hurricanes which originate within the trojiics, increase in diameter and diminish in force as they proceed towards the poles ; and as the meridians approach each other, the gales may become huddled together. They may, therefore, fre- quently neutralize each other and become irregular. Their force, too, may often fall off, until the strength of the wind on that side of the circle where it blows from East is unable to reverse the regular westerly atmo- spheric current, and to convert it into a temporary easterly gale ; and this may be the reason why easterly storms are less frequent in both hemispheres in the latitudes within which Great Britain is situated." — Law of Storms, p. 368. yi INTRODUCTION, vessels close in with the shore get the regular breeze sooner than those which are in tije offing. After sun-set, the atmosphere over the land becomes cool by evaporation ; and at what- ever time of the night it exceeds in density that over the sea, the air takes a motion from the land towards the more rarefied parts over the sea, producing what is called the lund-breeze. This is a progressive breeze ujion the sea, as it begins on the shore, and gradually extends to seaward ; and its approach may be sometimes known by an increased noise of the surf. These land and sea breezes extend in some places only to a small distance from the shore ; but on the Malabar Coast, in the fair season, where they prevail prohahly with greater regularity than on any other part of the globe, their influence is perceptible at the distance of "20 leagues from the land. When the land is greatly heated, and the evaporation not sufficient to cool the at- mosphere over it below that of the adjoining sea, there will be no land breeze, and in such case the wind blows mostly from seaward; this maybe observed in the Temperate as well as in the Torrid Zone. During summer in England, when the weather is settled and serene, a gentle breeze from the sea frequently rises and increases with the altitude of the sun ; it is strongest after noon, when the air over the land is greatly rarefied, and it declines with the setting sun. The evaporation from the land during the night being in this country not suffi- cient to cool the atmosphere over it, below that of the adjoining sea, a land breeze is consecjuently seldom experienced in the night. The temperature of the atmosphere being nearly the same over the land and sea, calms generally prevail in the night, until the sea-breeze returns, when the atmosphere over the land becomes heated by the sun in its diurnal course. Squalls. SQUALLS are generally of three kinds ; that called the ARCHED SQUALL is frequently experienced, and is usually distinguished by the arched form of the clouds near the horizon, but sometimes it assumes the appearance of a dense black cloud, par- ticularly when highly charged with rain or electric matter. From the time that the arch or cloud is first seen above the horizon, its motion is sometimes very quick to the zenith, the interval being scarcely sufficient to allow a ship to reduce the necessary sail before the wind reaches her, which happens when the cloud has approached to the zenith. At other times, the motion of the cloud is very slow, and not unfrequently it disap- pears, or is dispersed, the impulse of the wind being then not sufficient to reach a ship. As a general rule, it may be observed, that if there be rain in these squalls preceding the wind, the latter will probably follow the rain in sudden severe gusts; whereas, if the wind precedes the rain, the squalls are seldom so furious, and terminate in moderate showers of rain. This general rule, however, is often interrupted by the operation of local causes. THE DESCENDING SQUALL is not so easily discerned as the former, because it issues from clouds which are formed in the lower parts of the atmo- sphere near the observer; and when clouds are thus formed, they generally produce showers of rain and successive squalls of wind.* THE WHITE SQUALL is not often experienced ; but it sometimes happens near, or within the tropics, particularly in the vicinity of mountainous land. This squall generally blows very violently for a short time, and as it is liable to happen when the weather is clear, without any appear- * This cloud is called the Nimlus by Meteorologists, who have distinguished all the various aspects of the clouds by appropriate names ; although this classification is not yet adopted by seamen. INTRODUCTION. VI 1 Winds in straits or channels. ance in the atmosphere to indicate its approach, it is consequently very dangerous. The only mark that accompanies it is the white broken water on the surface of the sea, which is torn up by the force of the wind. Squalls, and also storms, are sometimes progressive, at other times regressive, when obstructed by an opposite wind, or according as the point of greatest rarefaction is situated, as may be seen in the description of the sea-breeze. When a squall is opposed by an opposite wind, its motion is greatly retarded thereby, and a ship sometimes in this case outruns the squall, and overtakes other ships which are within the limits of the opposite wind. Progressive winds, when they have an opposite wind to subdue, are frequently pre- ceded many hours by a swell, which extends a great way before them. In straits or channels formed between high lands, strong winds generally blow directly through them; this is experienced in many parts of the eastern seas, such as the Straits of Shadwan in the Red Sea, the Mozambique Channel, Straits of Macassar and Lombock, also in the entrance of the River St. Lawrence in North America, and frequently in the Frith of Forth in Scotland, although the latter is not bounded by very high land. In many places between the tropics, where shoal coral banks shoot up out of deep winds over water, a decrease of the prevailing wind is frequently experienced upon them ; for *''°''''*' when a steady wind is blowing over the surface of the deep water, no sooner does a ship get upon the verge of a shoal coral bank, than a sudden decrease of wind is often perceived. This is probably occasioned by the atmosphere over these banks being less rarefied, and cooler, by the increased evaporation, than that over the deep water; consequently not requiring so great a supply of air to restore the equilibrium, as the circumjacent parts which are more rarefied and heated. Water, in small quantities, parts quickly with its heat, but retains it when in large quantities ; in other words, the quantity of water evaporated and the cold generated in a given time is always in proportion to the extent of surface and the depth of the evaporating mass : the evapora- tion, therefore, over shoal banks is always greater than over deep parts of the sea, and the atmosphere, as well as the surface of the water, proportionally cooler over the former than over the latter. STORMS may be classed under three heads; GALES OF WIND, HURRI- CANES, and WHIRLWINDS. Storms. GALES generally happen beyond the tropics, outside of the limits of Trade Winds; caiesof wind. for in high latitudes, gales of wind, or storms, blow sometimes from one direction several days together, particularly during winter. These strong gales prevail mostly from the westward, and they are not so liable to shift round suddenly as the storms near the tropics ; this, however, sometimes happens, and has occasioned the loss of many ships in the Atlantic Ocean, having their square sails set, and consequently not preparecl for a sudden change. The gales of wind which happen near and within the tropics are generally of short duration, and liable to veer round suddenly to an opposite direction. HURRICANES are seldom experienced beyond the tropics, nor nearer to the Hurricanes. equator than lat. 9° or 10° North or South : they rage with greatest fury near the tropics in the vicinity of the main land or islands ; far out in the open ocean, they rarely occur; and when they happen within 10° of the equator, they generally are less violent than nearer to the tropics. \ Viii INTRODUCTION. ' Tliese are dreadful tempests, in which the wind shifts sometimes suddenly from one direction to the opposite, raising the sea in pyramids ; its violence is frequently so 2;reat as to overcome all resistance, breaking the masts of ships, and tearing up trees by the roots. Tiie velocity of the wind in some violent hurricanes has been estimated about 80 or 90 miles an hour: in a pleasant brisk gale it is about 20 miles an hour. In some places, hurricanes are occasionally accompanied by an earthquake. Hurricanes happen among the West India Islands, near to the East coast of Mada- gascar, near the islands of Mauritius and Bourbon, and to the eastward of these islands, within tiie limits of the S.E. trade: they are also liable to happen near the coasts of India, particularly in the Bay of Bengal at the changing of the monsoons. They are called Ty-foongs by the Chinese, and frequently happen on and near the coasts of Ciiina, extending from thence to the eastward of Luconia, and to the north- eastward as far as the Japan Islands. A description of them will be found in Volume Second of this Work, in the First Section, under the title "China Sea:" and the hurricanes which hai)pen near the islands of Mauritius and Bourbon are described in the section where directions are given for the returning passage from India towards the Cape of Good Mope. wi,iri«inrt» WHIULWINDS are sometimes occasioned by high uneven land: when the wind spom"^'" '* blowing strong, gusts from the mountains descend sometimes with a spiral or whirling motion upon the surface of the contiguous sea. But the phenomenon usually known by the name of WHIRLWIND when seen upon land, and called a WATER- SPOUT when it happens at sea, is generally attributed to electrical causes; as it occurs mostly in warm climates, when black dense clouds appear low in the atmo- sphere, which, being highly charged with electric fluid, thunder or lightning is mostly experienced with a whirlwind ; and at sea, it is almost invariably accompanied by rain or hail. Wlien a water-spout is forming at a small distance, a portion of a dense cloud is ob- served to descend and stretch itself towards the sea in a conical shape ; at the same time the surface of the sea immediately under it is agitated, and ascends a little way in the form of steam or white vapour, from the centre of which a small cone proceeding upwards unites with that projected from the cloud; the water-spout is then formed: frequently, however, the acting cause is not adequate to its completion, in which case the half-formed water-spout soon disperses. There is in the middle of the cone that forms a water-spout a white transparent tube or column, which, when viewed at a distance, seems like a stream of water as- cending, and gives it a very threatening aspect; but when closely approached, this partly vanishes. I have passed close to several water-spouts, and through the vortex of some that were forming, and was enabled to make the following observations : By an electrical force, or ascending whirlwind, a circular motion is given to a small part of the surface of the sea, in which the water breaks, and afterwards acquires a whirling motion with a velocity of 2, 3, to 4 or o knots. At the same time, a consider- able portion of the water in the whirlpool is separated from the surface in minute par- ticles, resembling smoke or vapour, accompanied by a hissing noise from the strength of the whirlwind; these particles continue to ascend with a spiral motion to the impend- ing cloud. In the centre of the water-spout there is a vacuum,* in which none of the small particles of water ascend ; and in this, as well as around the outer edges of the " Probably a calm. If it were a vacuum, the water would rise and fill it."— Co/. Reid's " Law of Storms," p. 10. INTRODUCTION. IX water-spout, large drops of rain fall, because in those places the power of the whirl- wind is not sufficient to support the ascending particles. The vacant space in the centre of the water-spout seems, when viewed at a distance, to be that which has a white transparent appearance, like a column of water, or a hollow glass tube. In calm weather, water-spouts are generally perpendicular, but occasionally they have an oblique or curved direction, according to the progressive motion given them by the prevailing winds. Sometimes they disperse suddenly, at other times they move rapidly along the surface of the sea, and continue a quarter of an hour or more before they disappear. Water-spouts are seldom seen in the night ; yet I once passed near to a large one in a cloudy dark night. The danger from water-spouts is not so great as many persons apprehend, for it has been said, that when they break, a large body of water descends sufficient to sink any ship. This does not appear to be the case, for the water descends only in the form of heavy rain, where it is broken from the ascending whirlwind ; but there is danger in small vessels of being overset when carrying much sail, and large ships, if their top-sails are not clewed up and the yards secured, may be liable to have them carried up to the mast-heads by the force of the whirlwind, and thereby lose their masts. It is sometimes thought, that the firing of a gun when near a water-spout will break it, and effect a dispersion; the concussion produced in the atmosphere by the explosion destroying in such case the cohesive force of the whirlwind. In the vicinity of water-spouts, the wind is subject to fly all round in sudden gusts, rendering it pru- dent for ships to take in their square sails. When a whirlwind happens on land, all the light substances on the surface of the earth within its course are carried up in a spiral motion by it. I have observed one pass over Canton River, in which the water ascended like a water-spout at sea, and some of the ships that were moored near its path were suddenly turned round by its influence. After passing over the river, it was observed to strip many trees of their leaves, which, with the light covering of some of the houses or sheds, it carried up a considerable way into the atmosphere. THE MARINE BAROMETER is a very useful instrument, especially in high Marine Ba.o- latitudes, in assisting navigators to anticipate approaching storms : previous to a hard gale of wind, there is generally a great fall of the mercury, and even near the tropics the fall of it before a storm or hurricane is usually considerable. Within 9° or 10° of the equator, there seldom or never is a hurricane or storm of long duration, but whirl- winds, and hard squalls of a few hours' continuance, are sometimes experienced within these parallels, without any fall of the mercury. Indeed, the barometer is of little use as a guide in prognosticating storms which may happen within the tropics; except that before a severe hurricane there is often a considerable fall of the mercury, when the latitude is not less than 14° or 15° North or South.* In high latitudes, the motion of the mercury in the barometer, like the winds, is mutable and uncertain; but previous to a storm or gale of wind, there is commonly a great fall, and the mercury begins to rise before the conclusion of the gale, sometimes even at its commencement, as the equilibrium in the atmosphere begins to be restored. Although the mercury sinks lowest before high winds, it frequently sinks considerably * I have engraved an atmospherical register for facilitating the use of the Marine Barometer ; by exhibiting its monthly range in each of the 12 sheets which the register contains, with an introductory sheet by way of example : this register is constructed for a period of 3 years, and is much more convenient than the usual method of registering the height of the mercury by cyphers. C meter. I X INTRODUCTION. before a heavy fall of rain ; and when the mercury stands low, the air is light and de- prived of expansibility or elasticity, therefore not capable of supporting much gaseous moisture; at sucli periods, consequently, rain generally falls. The mercury also sinks on the approach of thunder and lightning, or when the atmosphere is highly charged with electric matter. In serene settled weather the mercury commonly stands high, also in clear frosty weather. The mercury, in the open sea, is in general inclined to rise with easterly, and fall with westerly winds, ft is likewise necessary to remember, that in the northern hemisphere, in the open sea, the mercury rises with northerly and falls with southerly winds ; because, the former coming from the frozen parts near the pole, are more dense than the latter, which blow from the equatorial regions. In the southern hemisphere, the contrary takes place, for there the mercury rises with the cold southerly winds and falls with northerly winds. These effects are more particularly observed in high lati- tudes in the ocean, for obstructions and irregularities will always happen near land ; because tiiere, the rarefication and expansibility of the atmosphere are not so equal as over the ocean. After very warm and calm weather, in winter particularly, a storm is likely to follow ; or at any time that the atmosphere is greatly heated above the medium tem- perature. It is proper to observe, that in the open ocean between the tropics, in settled wea- ther, there is ajiti.r and reflux in the atmosphere twice every 24 hours, resembling the Atmospheric tidcs of the sea ; but these atmospheric tides depend upon the sun's influence and the rotation of the earth, and do not follow the motion of the moon. The rise and fall of the mercury, in consequence of these tides, is about 6 or 7 hundredths of an inch, in settled weather, near the equator ; the high station happening about 1 1 o'clock in the morning and 11 o'clock at night, and the low station about 5 o'clock in the morning and evening. The regularity of this flux and reflux of the atmosphere is obstructed by land, but in the ocean it prevails to lat. 26° North and South ; and in fine steady wea- ther it may be perceived as far as lat. 30° or 32° North or South.* Exclusive of the change in the barometer caused by the diurnal atmospheric tides between the tropics, Sir John Herschel, in his voyage to the Cape of Good Hope in November and Decem- ber 1833, observed a permanent depression of the mercury, especially at or near the equator, below wliat exists beyond the tropics in both hemispheres, — and the quantity of this permanent depression he estimated at two-tenths of an inch. By proper attention to the marine barometer, the experienced navigator may often be enabled to anticipate the changes of weather : and in some seas, he may by its indications even take in or let out reefs in the night. It is also advisable to observe the phases and progress of the moon, for it is reasonable to suppose the influence of that planet upon the atmosphere must be considerable, in penetrating through it to the surface of the ocean. * An abstract of 22 months' observations with two marine barometers is recorded in the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society for 1805, wherein I have described more fully this flux and reflux of the at- mosphere in different parts of the globe, from actual observation. The influence of the atmosphere upon the mercury in the barometer, may perhaps be partly attributed to the expansible force of the air, as well as to the pressure arising from its gravity. If a barometer be placed near the perpendicular side of a high hill, wall, or building, when the wind is blowing violently against it, the mer- cury wUl probably remain nearly at the same height as if the barometer stood in an open place ; but the den- sity or gravity of the atmosphere ought to be considerably augmented by compression near the wall, on account of the obstruction it presents to the velocity of the wind ; consequently the mercury should be more elevated m a barometer placed there, than it would be were it fixed in an open situation at the same time, if the action of the atmosphere upon the mercury were solely the force arising from its gravity. INTRODUCTION, XI THE CHANGE of the MOON, in most parts of the globe, is more likely to Supposed in. be accompanied by stormy weather than the full moon ; and blowing weather prevails m"oo"n''upon'tii> more in dark nights than when much of the moon's disc is illuminated. By looking atmospiieric into the Nautical Almanac the lunar points will be seen. When the semi-diameter '"*" and horizontal parallax of the moon are greatest, she is in that part of her orbit nearest the earth, called the Perigee; and when the semi-diameter and horizontal parallax are least, she is in that part of the orbit farthest from the earth, called the Apogee. An ingenious Frenchman has given a table of the chances of the changes of weather likely to happen at the lunar points, which he makes 10 in number. The principal of these lunar points are Perigee, Apogee, Change, and Full; and the changes likely to happen with these points, he thus marks : The Perigee of the moon is likely to be accompanied by the greatest changes which happen from a single lunar point. The new moon, next to the Perigee, is likely to be accompanied by the greatest changes of weather. At new moon coinciding with the Perigee, the greatest changes may be expected, or 33 to 1 that a change of weather happens. New moon coinciding with the Apogee, 7 to 1 that a change happens. Full moon coinciding with the Perigee, 10 to 1 that a change happens. Full moon coinciding with the Apogee, 8 to 1 that a change happens. If new moon and Perigee coincide, when the sun is on the equator, the chance of a change of weather must be great. If with the autumnal equinox, any of the lunar points coincide, there will be a great chance of a Ty-foong on the South coast of China, or of a storm in other parts near the tropic of Cancer. The changes of weather do not happen precisely at the lunar points, but, like the tides, vary a little in time from these points ; for a change of weather often precedes 1 or 2 days the change of the moon. THE VELOCITY of the WIND may be measured in various ways. An easy and velocity of the tolerably correct method is by estimating the motion of the detached clouds, when "'■"''• they are passing near the surface of the earth ; for in such case, their velocity will be nearly, though probably not quite so great as that of the wind. So that by measuring the interval of time betwixt the passage of the shadow of a cloud over two places, and comparing it with the distance between them, the velocity of the clouds moving with the current of wind may be ascertained. This may be done at sea when two ships are at a considerable distance from each other in the direction of the wind, and sailing at the same rate on the same course : when the shadow of a cloud passing under the sun is observed to darken the sails of one ship, the time may be noted by a watch, and when the shadow of the same cloud darkens the sails of the other ship, the time ought also to be marked. The distance between the ships may be measured by sound, one of them firing a gun by signal, that the other may be enabled to note the time which elapses from seeing the flash to hearing the sound; the number of seconds in this interval multiplied by 1140, the number of feet which sound moves in a second, will give the distance in feet between the ships.* * Experiments made by Mr. Millington make the velocity of sound to be nearest 1130 feet in a second, accelerated or retarded a little, by the direction of the wind ; but the state of the barometer made no differ- ence in its velocity. Dr. Olinthus Gregory, by various and numerous experiments, has found the velocity of sound to be 1100 feet per second at the temperature of freezing or 33°, and 1116 at the temperature of 66°; c2 I J Xii INTRODUCTION. If the two ships are near each other, and the height of their mast-heads is known, the angle of one of theirmast-headsraay be measured by sextant, and these elements of a right angled triangle used to oljtain the distance between them ; w hich cannot be correctly ascertained by sounds, unless they are at a considerable distance from each other. In raeasurinti the velocity of the wind by the motion of the clouds, the mean of several observations ought to be taken. The velocity of the wind may also be measured on shore pretty correctly, by means of a common kite. This is effected by letting the kite run out a certain length of loose line, and marking the time it takes in passing through the hand by watch ; then the time compared with the quantity of line run out will give the velocity of the wind nearly, but rather less than the truth : because the kite having a line fixed to it, and descending by its gravity, will be a little retarded in its horizontal motion. Waves of the THE WAVES of the SEA are in general governed by the wind, and move in the **"• same direction, when the latter has continued steady for a considerable time; but this regularity of the waves is often interrupted by local causes. Sometimes the waves run contrary to the wind ; at other times they are seen moving in various directions, running into, and crossing each other at different angles. During light winds, when a strong current is prevailing, there is generally a short confused swell in the opposite direction to the current, by attending to which experienced navigators may often foretell the course of the latter. Their velocity. There is reason to think, that few observations have been made at sea relative to the velocity of the waves, which is generally greater in the ocean than in shoal water near land ; because here, the mixed particles of sand and mud, and the friction occasioned by them and the ground, must considerably retard the regular progress of the waves.* The velocity of the waves may be easily measured by the common log, when a ship is running with them. To do this, when there is several knots of line out, or after the log is hove to obtain the velocity of the ship, mark the time to the nearest second by watch when the log is lifted npon the top of any wave, and mark the time when the stern of the ship is lifted up by the same wave: the length of line between the stern and the log will be the measure of the apparent velocity of the wave for the interval of time, to which must be added the velocity of the ship, and the sura will be the true velocity of the wave. It may also be measured, when 2 ships, or a boat and a ship, near each other, are sailing on the same course with equal velocity, or when they are stationary during a calm. This is done by taking the angle of one of the ship's mast-heads with a sextant, the height of it being known from the deck or above the surface of the sea, and cor- rection must be made for the height of the eye above water. In this right-angled triangle, the perpendicular or height of the mast and the angles are given, to find the horizontal base line or distance between the ships, as in the case mentioned above, for ascertaining the velocity of the wind. At the time the angle of the ship's mast-head is taken, mark the time when the first ship is lifted up by a wave, and also the time when the other ship is lifted up by the same wave, and the distance between them, if they are both in a line with the course of the waves, will be tlie measurement of the velocity therefore deduct \ a foot from 1100 for every degree below 33°, and add \ a foot for every degree of higher temperature. * Dr. W. H. Wollaston found the velocity of the waves to be nearly 60 miles an hour by some observations taken at anchor in one of the Leith Smacks, close to the east coast of England. Captain David Thomson, an officer possessing much science, found the velocity of the waves to be 30 miles per hour, by repeated trials, when sailing directly before the wind with a strong'gale, off the Cape of Good Hope. INTRODUCTION. XIU of that wave for the interval of time. In order to approximate to the truth, the mean of several observations should be taken ; the velocity of the waves may be measured in this manner, although the two ships are not in a direct line with the course of the waves, by taking the angle between this course and one of the ships. In such case, the distance between the ships will be the hypothenuse of a right-angled triangle, which, with the angles, are given, to find the opposite side or perpendicular ; and this will be the measurement of the velocity of the waves, for the interval of time marked by M'atch. These methods of measuring the velocity of the winds and waves are stated princi- pally with the view of exciting young navigators to rational amusement during a leisure hour; and that they may, by practice, improve themselves in the knowledge of maritime surveying, so essential to skilful navigators. THE LUMINOUS APPEARANCE of the SEA,* which frequently happens, more Luminous ap. particularly between the tropics, or near them, in different parts of the globe, is pro- PJ^"«""of '^e diiced from various causes, not generally known to navigators ; although it has been noticed by Aristotle and Pliny, and by several naturalists in different ages, since their time. Of various kinds of marine animals which emit light, the following appear to be best known. First. — The Cancer Fulgens, discovered by Sir Joseph Banks, resembling the common shrimp, but smaller ; this I have often seen sparkling at the edge of the sea in dark nights, during the S.VV, monsoon, on the Malabar Coast ; and after being carried in a handful of sand, to be examined with a microscope, it continued to emit light till life was extinct. Second. — Limulus Noctilucas, discovered by me in the Arabian Sea, April 12th, ] 798. Perceiving several luminous spots in the sea after day-light, and supposing them to be animals, I went in the boat and caught one, with some difficulty, as it endeavoured to avoid my band. It proved to be an insect somewhat resembling in appearance the wood- louse, and was about -j of an inch in length ; on examination with the microscope, it appeared to be formed by sections of a thin crustaceous substance, and while any fluid remained in the animal, it shone brilliantly like the fire-fly. Third. — The Medusa Pellucens (or one of the species of blubber-fish), discovered by Sir Joseph Banks to be luminous, is a zoophyte, the most splendid of the luminous inhabitants of the ocean : the flashes of light emitted during its contraction are at times so vivid, as to affect the sight of the spectator. Several other species of luminous medusae were discovered by Mr. Macartney, on the coasts of Kent and Sussex, of various forms and sizes, some of them very minute, not larger than the head of a small pin. Forster and other naturalists, have also discovered several different kinds of luminous marine animals besides those already mentioned. Although the luminous appearance of the sea is generally produced by living ani- mals, nevertheless, some kinds of dead matter seem to give it a similar aspect at times, such as the exuviae of fishes or putrefactions.-]" I have sometimes carefully examined * An excellent paper on luminous marine animals, by J. Macartney (Professor of Anatomy at the University of Dublin), was published in 1810 in Part 2nd of the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London, t Putrid fish are known to shine in the dark ; this I have seen strangely exemplified at Bombay, where great quantities of a glutinous species of fish, resembling white-bait, are caught, and spread on the fields to be dried by the sun. These had a novel appearance in dark nights, the whole extent of the ground exhibiting a continued sheet of shining light. ( Xiv INTRODUCTION. the water of the sea when it was luminous, and could not discern any animation, but it appeared only to contain small particles of matter of a dusky straw colour, whicli dissolved with the slightest touch of the finger ; at other times the sea was evidently illuminated by small sparkling animals. A peculiar phenomenon is sometimes seen in the Banda Sea, and other parts of the Eastern Seas ; and particularly in the Arabian Sea, between the east coast of Africa and the coast of Malabar, during the rainy monsoon. This I had an opportunity of once observing at midnight, when the weather was cloudy, and the sea particularly dark, but it suddenly clianged to a white flaming colour all round. This phenomenon bore no resemblance to the sparkling or glowing appearance observed on other occasions in seas near the equator, but the sea was of a splendid colour, white as milk, which did not continue more than ten minutes, when it resumed its former darkness. This singular phenomenon has been also observed by several persons near the Malabar Coast, and in other parts, and it appears to be in a great degree elucidated by the observations of Mr. LangstafF, made in a passage from Port Jackson toward China. About half an hour after sun-set, the sea changed to a milky appearance, and the ship seemed to be surrounded by ice covered with snow. A bucket of water being hauled up, and examined in the dark, a great number of globular bodies were discovered, linked together, each about the size of a pin's head, the chains thus formed did not exceed three inches in length, and emitted a pale phosphoric light. This extraordi- nary appearance of the sea was visible two nights; but as soon as the moon exerted her influence, the sea resumed its natural dark colour, and exhibited distinct glittering spots, as at other times. Mr. Langstaff''s observations seem to shew, that the diffused light of the sea is produced by an assemblage of minute medusae on the surface of the water. Mr. Macartney has seen streams of light on the surface of the sea, at different times, on the southern coasts of England ; and upon examination, a gallon of sea water in a luminous state, after being strained, left above a pint of small medusae He has also under such circumstances, perceived the sea to yield more support in swimming, and the water to taste more disagreeably than usual. The surface of the sea is usually more subject to be luminous after long calms and sultry weather than at any other time; for then, it abounds with minute medusae and small marine animals generated in calm weather, which render it foetid both to the smell and taste. At such times the sea becomes easily illuminated, by the least dis- turbance of a squall, or any thing that produces agitation or friction on its surface. The porpoise, dolphin, dorado, and other fishes, therefore, often reflect a -vivid light when swimming near the surAice, which has induced some persons to ascribe the property of emitting light to several fishes : but upon close examination, the bodies of those fishes were found to be covered with minute spherical particles which adhere to their surface, apparently the same that illuminated the whole of the sea at the time, and in all pro- bability were a minute kind of medusae. The small particles of matter of a dusky straw colour, mentioned above, which were examined by me (but not with a microscope), and appeared destitute of animation, might nevertheless have been the minute medusae discovered by Mr. Macartney, and called by him Medusa Scintillans, which he thinks to be the most frequent cause of the luminous appearance of the sea. When at Heme Bay, a small watering place on the northern coast of Kent, in October 1804, he observed the sea to be luminous several nights, and took up a considerable quantity of the water, which emitted no light when at rest ; but on the slightest agitation of the vessel which contained the INTRODUCTION, XV water, a brilliant scintillation was perceived towards the surface ; and when the vessel was suddenly struck, a flash of light issued from the top of the water, in consequence of so many points shining at the same moment. Having strained a quantity of the lumi- nous water, a great number of transparent corpuscles were obtained upon the cloth, and the water which had been strained did not afterwards exhibit the least light. Some sea water, which had been rendered particularly clear by repeated filtrations, was then put into a large glass, and having floated in it a fine cloth, on which he had previously collected a number of luminous corpuscles, several of them were liberated, and became distinctly visible in their natural element, by placing the glass before a piece of dark coloured paper. They were observed to have a tendency to come to the surface of the water, and after the glass was kept steady sometime, they were found congregated together, and when thus collected in a body, they had a dusky straiv colour, although individually they were so transparent as to be invisible, except under parti- cular circumstances. In the air, they appeared like globules of water; they were more minute than the head of the smallest pin, and upon the slightest touch they broke and vanished from the sight. The motions of these creatures in the water were slow and graceful, not accompanied by any visible contractions of their bodies ; and after death they always subsided to the bottom of the vessel. A beautiful illumination of the surface of the sea is sometimes reflected from the broken water or waves at the head of a ship, occasioned by her velocity through the fluid, when it abounds with those animals which emit light. Once I experienced a splendid instance of this kind near the equator, when the quantity of gleaming light reflected from the waves under the weather bow of the ship, against the white fore-sail, was sufficient to enable me to read any pages of a book, if not pi'inted with a very small type, although the night was otherwise dark at the time. THE TEMPERATURE of the SEA is a phenomenon hitherto but little inves- Temperature tigated, although it appears to be closely connected with the improvement of nau- °' ""^ '™' tical science ; the following observations may, therefore, be not altogether unimportant to navigators. It has been thought that the temperature of the ocean was subject to little variation, particularly between the tropics; the temperature of its surface, however, is affected by changes of the superincumbent atmosphere, as well as by other local or adventitious causes, 1st. When the atmosphere has a low temperature, a portion of its cold is imparled to the surface of the ocean, by which the temperature of the water is diminished. 2nd. Tempestuous weather raises the temperature of the sea, an effect which is pro- bably produced by the agitation or friction of the broken waves, the particles of water rubbing against each other. 3rd. Currents have a more powerful influence than any other cause in changing the temperature of the surface of the ocean ; and it may be here observed, that the same rule is applicable in this case as that already stated in regard to winds, under the ar- ticles Trade Winds and Marine Barometer, viz.: That in either hemisphere a current proceeding from the cold polar regions towards the equator, diminishes the tempera- ture of the sea ; whereas, a current running from the inter-tropical regions towards either pole, raises its temperature. It is surprising how long the great bodies of cur- rents preserve their original temperature ; that known by the name of the Gulf Stream loses only two degrees of its original warmth in running 1300 miles into a cooler cli- mate, it being 81° in summer inlat. 39° N. ; and in passing the bank of Newfoundland, Xvi INTRODUCTION. it is several degrees warmer than the sea in its vicinity; thus the experienced navigator is enabled to ascertain when he gets into the Gulf Stream merely by drawing a bucket of water, and feeling its temperature. 4thly and lastly. The depth of the sea appears, also, to have a great influence on the temperature of its surface, for the immense body of water contained in the ocean preserves its heat: whereas, in places of little depth, the surface of the water is cooled by increased evaporation.* The temperature of the ocean, therefore, may be expected to be hi"her than tliat in seas which have little depth of water, in the same parallels of latitude." This seems to be verified by the experiments and observations of Dr. John Davy, during his voyage to Ceylon ; as in approaching the land of Table Bay at the Cape of Good Hope, from the westward, the temperature of the sea decreased 2°, and it also decreased 2° when the Island of Ceylon was closely approached, although the bank of soundings does not extend far out from either of these places. Sir John Herschel in a letter, dated Cape of Good Hope, July 7th, 1834, states that from the time of leaving England, in November 1833, the temperature of the sea increased with regularity, until in lat. 4° N., Ion. 21° 10' W., where it attained its maximum, and on the average of six days' observations, about the 6th December, it was 81° of Fahrenheit. The temperature decreased, also, regularly, in proceeding from the equator to the southward, it being 64°, 2, on the 12th January, 1834, then in lat. 34° 16' S., Ion. 11° 49' E. On the following day, the 13th, it rose to 70°, 5, in lat. 34° 35' S., Ion. 14° 42' E., which was attributable to a part of the warm stream that sets round the Cape to the westward ; as it decreased to 68°, 3 on the 14th, in approaching the land, and to 59°, 5 when Table Bay was entered, on the 15th of January 1834, which corresponds with other observations, that the temperature of the sea decreases in the proximity of land or shoal banks. In calm and settled weather the temperature of the sea was found, by Dr. John Davy, to reach its maximum about one or two hours after noon ; and its minimum about sunrise. Were the temperature of the sea, as well as that of the atmosphere, conjointly regis- tered in the journals of navigators, several times every 24 hours, it would assist greatly the improvement of nautical science; and the proximity of land or shoal banks, might probably be ascertained by carefully observing the temperature of the sea. The late Captain J. P. Wilson, of the Company's ship Hythe, a very scientific officer, has ascertained by careful observation that the temperature of the central part of the stream of westerly current which prevails along the verge of Cape Aguilhas Bank, is about 8° or 9° higher than that of the sea beyond the limits of the stream of current ; and as the maximum of temperature is in the middle of the stream of current, a ship may be kept in it, by attending to changes of temperature in the surface water, and thereby be enabled to accelerate her progress to the westward during adverse winds. currenu. CURRENTS, or TIDES, are generally experienced more or less in most parts of the ocean. Where trade winds or monsoons blow steadily, the current runs mostly with the wind ; but at times, no current is experienced, and sometimes it sets contrary to the prevailing wind. In high latitudes, in the open ocean, the current seldom runs so strong as in the vicinity of the equator, where it is very changeable, running in parts of the Pacific and Indian Oceans, sometimes at the rate of from 20 to 60 miles in 24 hours. * See the sequel under the article Squalls, at p. vii. INTRODUCTION. • XVll The current near the equator, and also in most places of the open sea, sets more frequently to the westward than to the eastward : and when the current is running in one direction on the surface, it is sometimes running in an opposite, or oblique direc- tion, underneath. Therefore the usual method of trying the velocity and direction of the current in a boat, by sinking a kettle or pot to the depth of 60 or 70 fatlioms, is seldom found to agree with the admeasurement of the same by chronometers. But since navigation has been improved by the use of the latter, the direction and velocity of currents are now more correctly ascertained. The tides, in high latitudes, generally rise and fall more than in low latitudes, and it Tides. has been said, that the perpendicular flux and reflux was very little within the tropics, which is not always the case. At the head of the Gulf of Carabay, in lat. 22° N., the perpendicular depth of the rise and fall of the tides is from 30 to 36 feet at the full and change of the moon. At the same time, it is 20 and 21 feet in Surat Road ; and from 15 to 17 feet in Bombay Harbour. In the Gulf of Martaban, which is far within the tropics, the perpendicular depth of the rise and fall of the tide, at the full and change of the moon, is 23 and 24 feet, and off Rangoon Bar about 20 or 21 feet. In Gaspar Straits, within 2^° of the equator, there is sometimes, from local causes, a rise and fall of 16 or 17 feet on the springs ; but the rise and fall of the tide, is seldom so great as this, in places situated near the equator. Although in most places, the tide flows twice every 24 hours, this is not universally the case within the tropics,* for amongst several of the eastern islands, the tide flows only once in 24 hours ; the passage of the moon over the meridian generally makes high water at these places ; but in some parts, the tide is highest when the moon is near, or in the horizon. MAGNETISM is one of the phenomena of nature which seems to elude the defini- Magnetism. tions of science ; several hypotheses, indeed, have been formed, and many attempts made to discover its elementary principles, yet they appear to be still very imperfectly known. Formerly some philosophers were of opinion, that a great central magnet in the inter- nal part of our globe was the cause of all the magnetic influence; while others consi- dered the cause to be merely atmospherical. But the productive cause of magnetism Productive seems neither confined within the earth, nor to the atmosphere, as both are known ""'"• greatly to affect the magnetic needle, and later discoveries have shewn its connection with electricity. Many of the masses of rocks or mountains which form a considerable portion of the earth are partly composed of metallic matter, and exert a powerful magnetic influence. The sun has an influence on the needle, producing a diurnal variation, which has been observed to increase progressivelyt with the altitude of that luminary. The Aurora Borealis, which is considered to be an electrical phenomenon, is also thought to have an effect upon the magnetic needle; and it appears to be influenced by several other secondary causes. Mr. John Churchman, an American, who was a member of the Imperial Academy Hypothesis of Cliurcliman and Walker. * In many places far beyond the tropics, the tide likewise flows only once in 24 hours, particularly on the southern coast of Van Diemen's Land ; but at Port Dalrymple on the North coast, the tide flows twice in 24 hours. t This I have experienced several times during fine weather at sea, in observing a series of azimuths ; com- mencing when the sun's altitude was 3° or 4°, and continuing the observations until it was 25° or 30° above the horizon. The diurnal variation of the needle has been long known, and often observed upon land. d ^ Xviii INTRODUCTION. of Sciences, St. Petersburg!), and Mr. Ralph Walker, the civil engineer, formerly of Jamaica, appear to have published, nearly at the same time, an ingenious hypothesis, with a view of solving all magnetical problems, relating both to the vertical and hori- zontal declination of tiie needle. In a diagram of the two hemispheres, on the plane of the equator, drawn by Mr. Walker upon this principle, there are two magnetic poles, represented at difterent distances from the poles of the earth, and revolving round the latter in unequal periods of time. Tiie North Magnetic Pole is placed for the year 1794, in lat. 71° N., Ion. 80° W. ; the South Magnetic Pole in lat. 65° S., Ion. 130° E. ; ami by the intersections of the magnetic meridians with the terrestrial meridians, the \ariatK)n of the needle might be found by inspection on these hemispheres for all places on the surface of the globe, were the positions of the magnetic poles well ascertained and correctly laid down, and the needle not subject to aberrations from various causes already mentioned. But exclusive of the perpetual aberration of the needle from permanent causes of nature, it is likewise subject to adventitious and local attractions, lialile to operate in a considerable degree against the accuracy of any theoretical solu- tions. Mr. Churchman supposes the periodical revolution of the North Magnetic Pole round the North Pole of the earth to be 1,096 years ; and the revolution of the South Magnetic Pole round the South terrestrial Pole to be 2,289 years, its motion being much slower than that of the North Magnetic Pole, which is the cause of perpetual irregu- larities of the variation of the needle. He is of opinion, that when one of the Magnetic Poles is in the zenith of any place, magnetic tides, or great inundations, will there be experienced ; and when the Magnetic Pole is far distant from any place, the sea will recede, and alluvial land will be formed. Mr. Walker, besides his diagram for show- ing the horizontal declination of the needle, has drawn two hemispheres on the plane of the equator, for shewing the vertical declination or dip of the needle for all places on the globe ; and in addition to his improvements on steering compasses, he has in- vented a meridional compass for shewing the quantity of variation by inspection at any time of the day.* The celebrated Dr. Halley was of opinion, that the variation and dip of the needle could not be resolved consistently, on the supposition of the earth having only one magnetic axis, and two magnetic poles; and he inferred, that two magnetic poles must exist in the northern hemisphere, and two also in the southern hemisphere of the earth, in order to account for the discordant magnetic changes. Professor Hansteen, justly esteemed for his profound investigations of magnetical phenomena, and for his researches in Siberia and other places, to ascertain the mag- netic influence and intensity, has discovered the existence of a magnetic pole in that country, Siberia, which leaves no doubt that there are two magnetic poles in the northern hemisphere: and as the late expeditions of our enterprising navigators have proved the existence of another magnetic pole in lat. 70° 5^' N., ion. 96° 4()f' W., by the observations of Captain James Clarke Ross, Dr. Halley's inference seems to have been correct, and may soon be demonstrated by similar researches in the southern hemis- phere, where the existence of two magnetic poles will probably be discovered. f * The late Mr. J. Garnett, an ingenious philosopher and astronomer, who resided long in America, where he superintended the publication of an Astronomical Epheraeris, states that he used the common ring dial for the same purpose at sea as well as on land, which shews the true meridian within 1° of the truth, at any time when the sun's altitude is not too great ; and consequently, the variation of the needle from the true meridian. t A scientific expedition, consisting of H. M. ships Erebus and Terror, under the command of Captain James Clarke Ross, which sailed from England in October 1839, will, in all probability, throw much light on this point ; the investigation of the phenomena of magnetism being the primary object of the expedition. INTRODUCTION. XIX According to the recent researches of Professor Ilansteen, tlie earth has four majr- netic poles, all revolving in the neiglibourhood of the geographic poles ; an«l the periods of these revolutions are respectively about 4,600, 1,740, 1,300, and 800 years. These times, though long, as historical periods, are short, compared with many of those cycles of which geological researches and astronomical calculations seem to prove the existence. THE VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, when mentioned in this work, is in- variationof tended only for tiie navigator to make proper allowance in steering from one place to """^"'"p*" another, and not as a guide for estimating the longitude, which was practised about .30 and 40 years ago by mariners, before the use of chronometers and lunar observations became general. In places where the variation changed quickly, in sailing nearly on a parallel of lati- tude, navigators were formerly eager to embrace its aid as an approximation to the true longitude; but compasses being subject to many errors from various causes, the longitude ascertained by means of the variation could never be trusted to with any reasonable degree of confidence. The variation of the needle is in a state of continued change in most places of the globe, and there is also a diurnal and annual variation of the variation ; besides the same compa«ses will alter when taken from one ship into another, and if shifted to different situations in the same ship. And in some places of the globe, although a compass be stationary in a ship, the needle seems to be subject to an aberration of several degrees, proportionate to the angle that the ship's head makes with the magnetic meridian. THIS ABERRATION OR LOCAL ATTRACTION OF THE NEEDLE, A>.~>or Captain Flinders constantly experienced during his survey of the coasts of New Hoi- oTthe^'needie!" land, which is recorded in the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society for 1805. With the compass placed amidships in the Investigator, the bearing of points of land on the South coast of New Holland, taken immediately before and after tack- ing, differed sometimes 8° or 9° when the ship's head was changed nearly from East to West ; but there was little or no difference when the direction of the ships head was North or South. This difference in the direction of the magnetic needle from itswjea?* state, was easterly when the ship's head was West, and westerly when it was East. When the ship's head was North or South, the needle continued in its mean state, and shewed a variation from the true meridian, nearly equal to the medium between w hat it shewed when the ship's head was East and when West ; and the aberration of the needle was nearly proportionate to the number of points which the ship's head was from the North or South. This aberration of the needle, arising from a change of the ship's head, varies in dif- ferent ships at the same place, according to their size, and the quantity of iron they contain, and it appears to be greatest in small ships : but in places near the equator, where there is little variation, this aberration cannot be perceived, for it increases in proportion to the distance from the magnetic equator, toward the poles in botli hemispheres. Captain Flinders was of opinion, that the magnetism of the earth, and the attraction of the iron in a ship, acted as a compound force in producing the error of variation by the changeof a ship's liead ; and he thought that the error at any direction of the a kips head, would he to the error when her head teas East or West, at the sauie dip of the needle, as the sine of the angle betiveen the ships head and magnetic meridian was to the sine of eight points, or radius. d 2 XX INTRODUCTION. Since the time of Vancouver, Flinders, Bain, and others, alluded to by Captain Horsburgh, the subject of local attraction has been carefully investigated by Professor Barlow, and fully treated by him in his " Essay on Magnetic Attractions." It has therefore been thought desirable to omit the remarks which have appeared in the former editions of this work, and to substitute for them the following practical directions on the subject, which were drawn up with great care and attention from Mr. Barlow's work and other authentic sources, and published in the Nautical Magazine for April 1037. DIRECTIONS FOR ASCERTAINING THE AMOUNT OF THE LOCAL ATTRACTION OF A VESSEL ON THE COMPASS. The variation of the compass as deduced from observation at sea in different parts of the world, was long considered by seamen as the true variation, or, in other words, that it was the real angle which the magnetic needle makes with the true meridian. And although certain discordances in compass bearings were noticed at different periods by the navigators of former days, yet it nowhere appears that they discovered the cause of those discordances to be the iron distributed through their own vessels ; the attractive power of which was continually acting with more or less force on the magnetic needle, sometimes in conjunction with, and sometimes in opposition to, the magnetic influence of the earth. The earliest notices we have on record of this deviation of the needle from the mag- netic meridian are given by Sturmy in his " Mariner's Magazine," published in 1700, and by the celebrated circumnavigator, Captain William Dampier, in the account of his voyage to New Guinea. In the quaint language of his time, Dampier thus alludes to it: " Another thing that stumbled me here was the variation which, at this time, by the last amplitude, 1 found to be 7° 38' W,, whereas the variation at the Cape of Good Hope it was then computed, and truly, about 11°, and yet a while after this, when I had got ten leagues to the eastward of the Cape, I found the variation but 10° 45' W. ; whereas it should have been more than that at the Cape. These things 1 con- fess did puzzle me." This irregularity was no doubt the effect of the iron in the vessel, and although Dampier had a shrewd inquiring mind, it was not to be expected that he should at once hit upon the discovery of its causes. Those causes lay concealed amidst the depths of science, and their discovery was reserved for the persevering efforts of men of the present more enlightened age. Aware, however, of the value of such observations, Dampier very properly recorded them with the view of assisting Halley in the construction of his variation chart,* and recommended all navigators to do the same. * Halley published this chart, which was the first of its kind, in the year 1700. He had collected a vast number of observations of the variation, which having noted in their proper places on a Mercator's chart of the world, he was enabled, by drawing lines through them, to trace the corresponding degrees of variation, or, in other words, to shew the course of the magnetic curves. Another chart of this kind was published by Mountain and Dobson in 1744, and another in 1756-7, and from the apparent facility of observing the varia- tion, it was even seriously recommended to mariners as a means of ascertaining their longitude. The inefficiency of such means is so obvious, that these charts are now only used for giving a general view of the amount of the variation in different parts of the world. Yeates published another chart in 1817; and more recently Professor Barlow has given us all the modern observations in a chart of two sheets, which he proposed to follow up by a variation globe. INTRODUCTION. XXI We find nothing that throws any further light on the subject of local attraction until the time of Captain Cook, when the attention of Mr. Wales, who accompanied him as astronomer, was awakened by the differences which he found in his observations. He states distinctly, that " variations observed with the ship's head in different positions, and even in different parts of her, will materially differ from one another ; and much more will observations observed on board different ships." Mr. Wales gives instances of these differences amounting to 10°. The voyage in which he made these observations lasted from 177G to 1780 ; and in 1793, we find that the celebrated French naval surveyor, M. Beaulemps Beaupre, when employed in the Recherche looking for La Peyrouse, abandoned the old system of using compass bearings in consequence of meeting with difl'erences of several degrees in the variations. We may here remark that M. Beaupre was among the first to adopt that excellent system of obtaining the true bearing by an angle referred to the sun's azimuth. In 1790, however, the first direct mention of local attraction was made by Mr. Downie, when master of H.M.S. Glory, in Walker's Treatise on Magnetism. " I am convinced," says Mr. Downie, "that the quantity and vicinity of iron in most ships has an effect in attracting the needle, for it is found by experience that the needle will not always point in the same direction Avhen placed in different parts of a ship; also, it is very easily found that two ships steering the same course by their respective com- passes, will not go exactly parallel to each other, — yet when these compasses are on board the same ship they will agree exactly." But, notwithstanding the important discovery that such anomalies existed in a ma- chine of so much consequence to the safety oi ships as the mariner's compass, they still remained unheeded, until the return of Captain Flinders from the survey of Australia, when, in consequence of his representations to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, he was directed to make a series of experiments on board one of his Majesty's ships at Sheerness. The results of these experiments are thus stated : — 1st. That a compass gave different bearings of the same object when placed in dif- ferent parts of the ship. 2d. That when the ship's head was on the magnetic North or South, no effects arose from local attraction, proving that when the ship was in that position the attrac- tion of the various masses of iron on board acted in unison with the magnetism of the earth. 3d. That when the ship's head was East or West, the effects of local attraction were greatest, and that at the intermediate points of the deviation of the needle varied nearly in the proportion of the sine of the angle between the bearing of the ships head and the magnetic meridian to radius. 4th. That the maximum of variation, in the same compass, would be different in different parts of the world, or, in other words, that the force of the local attraction of the vessel varied with the dip of the magnetic needle, or in proportion to the distance of the magnetic equator. Flinders died in 1814, and the subject of local attraction lay almost untouched until Mr. Bain, a master in the royal navy, took it in hand, and wrote a pamphlet on it, which appeared in 1817. There was a great deal of merit in this little production ; all his were sound opinions; but, although his remarks and observations were accom- panied with ample proofs of the importance of attending to them, he failed to give those plain and straightforward directions which the seaman looks for. The subject Xxii INTRODUCTION, was lastly taken up by Professor Barlow, a name well known in the annals of science. The polar expedition of 1818 afforded an admirable opportunity for confirming- still further the laws laid down by Flinders, as the ships not only passed through a con- siderable variety of variation, but necessarily approached the north magnetic pole. Constant observations were accordingly made on board the Alexander and Isabella, at the suggestion of the professor, and it was found, before they had nearly reached Greeidancf, that the compasses of one ship differed as much as 11° from those of the other, and that the same compass gave results differing 10° in different parts of the same ship. As the two vessels proceeded up Davis Straits, the compasses became slusgish; and in the subsequent voyage of Sir Edward Parry, as he passed through Barrow Strait, they became totally useless— thus confirming the conclusion of Flinders, that, although the magnetic force of the earth wonld be greatest at the magnetic pole, yet its horizontal or directive power would then entirely cease, having become gradually less in proportion as the angle increased, which the dipping needle makes with the horizontal plane. But while the horizontal needle is thus forsaken, as it were, by the earth's magnetic power, the various magnetic bodies in the ship uhich surround it are still acting on it with a directive force which relatively increases as the directive force of the magnetic pole diminishes. The discorda'nces in the variations observed at sea, and the difficulty of arriving at the actual inclination which the magnetic meridian makes with the true one, can only be attributed to the want of a due observance of the foregoing facts. But these facts are now so universally admitted, that it is unnecessary to multiply proofs either of their existence or of the evil consequences which may arise from their neglect. We will therefore at once proceed to the best practical methods of determining the local attrac- tion of any vessel, and of applying the proper correction for its effects to the compass courses. There are two modes of effecting this problem— the first is, observing by a compass, on board, the bearing of a distant object on shore, while the ship makes a complete circuit, or passes through all the points of the compass. The second is, by means of two compasses, one of which is placed on shore at any convenient distance, and the other remains on board, while the ship's head is made to perform a similar revolution. The former method is the most independent, as it requires only one observer; but then it is necessary that the object on shore should be at a distance of several miles, in order that the parallax of the vessel in the circuit she necessarily makes in order to place her head on every point of the compass, be so small as to subtend an insensible angle at the object. The distance requisite to fulfil the above condition will vary from four to ten miles, according to the scope of the cable, or the looseness of the moorings. Assuming this angle to be insensible, or so small as to be within the uncertainty of observation, the bearings then made of the object may be considered as taken from a single spot, and therefore, if it were not for the effect of local attraction, they would of course be all alike. The correctness of this method evidently depends on the truth of the above assump- tion, but as a suitable object does not occur at every anchorage, we shall proceed to the second method, which is equally correct, but which requires the co-operation of another observer. This method consists in taking the bearing of the compass on board from another on shore, at the same instant that the bearing of that on shore is observed from the couipass on board. It is evident, that if the two compasses employed have previously agreed in every respect, that each pair of observations would be the reverse of each other, so that if INTRODUCTION. xxni the compass on board bore S.W. from tliat on shore, that of the shore would bear N.E. from the compass on board ; but in consequence of the effects of local attraction the compass on board will, on almost every bearing, differ considerably. We will now suppose that a ship lying at Spithead, having all her guns, and cargo, and spare anchors on board, is desirous of obtaining her local attraction by a single observer. As it is necessary that the ship's head should be placed on each point of the com- pass, the opportunity of slack water should be taken, and a warp should be properly laid out to a buoy, or to another vessel, in order to secure her performing the revolution gradually. Select any vvell-defined object on shore, such as a remarkable tree or house on one of the most distant ridges. The azimuth compass should be employed, as it is fitted with sight vanes, and the circumference of the card is divided into degrees ; but all the observations must be made from the binnacle, precisely over the usual position of the steering compass.* Then, as the ship slowly presents her head to each point of the compass, the bearing of the object is to be carefully observed, and, if practicable, a moment should be allowed to elapse after the ship's head arrives on each of the different points, so that no error may arise from the swing of the compass. The bearings as they are obtained must be immediately noted in a table, arranged in the following form, the column No. 1 having been previously written. When the North end of the needle is drawn to the eastward, the local attraction is marked — , and when to the eastward + . No. 1. No. 2. Direction of Ship's Observed Bearing of Head. I Object. North N. by E. NN.E. N.E. by N. N.E. N.E. by E. E.N.E. E. by N. East. E. by S. E.S.E. S.E. by E. S.E. S.E. by S. S.S.E. S. by E. N.18 N. 17 N. 16 N. 15^ N. 14 N. 14 N. 13| E. N. 13 N. 12 E. E. N. 10 E. N. 9iE. E. N. 10 N. 10 N. 11 N. 13 N. 14 210| No. 3. Correct Bearing of Object. N. 17 E. Local At- traction. + 1 —1 -H —3 —3 -H —5 —7 71 '2 —7 —7 —6 No. I. Direction of Ship's Head. South S. by W. S.S.'W. S.W.byS. S.W. S.W. by W. W.S.W. W. by S. West W. by N. W.N.W. N.W. byW. N.W. N.W. by N. N.N.W. N. by W. No. 2. Observed Bearing of Objecu N. 14 E. N. 16 E. N. 17 E. N. 18 E. N. 19 E. N. 20iE. N. 22 E. N. 24 E. N. 24 E. N. 25 E. N. 25 E. N. 24 E. N. 23 E. N. 22|E. N. 20iE. N. IsJe. 333 210i 543i No. 3. Correct Bearing of Object. N. 17 E. No. 4. Local At- traction. —3 — 1 — + 1 + 2 + 3^ +5 + 7 + 7 + 8 + 8 + 7 + 6 +5i + H + H * Should it be inconvenient to place the azimuth compass immediately over the binnacle, select any other position for it amidships on the vessel's deck, and in this case let the direction of the ship's head be noted by both the compasses when the bearing of the object is taken, in order to obtain the bearing of it from the steer- ing compass, from which it may not be visible, l^he number of degrees between the ship's head and the object by the azimuth compass, applied to the direction of the ship's head by the steering compass, will give the bearing of the object from it, as well as if it had been actually observed. XXIV INTRODUCTION. If time should permit, it would be advisable to repeat this series of observations, in order to guard against any mistakes, and, if practicable, to swing the ship's head round in the op|)osite direction to that of the first revolution. The observer having now filled up column No. 2 with the observed bearings, and being satisfied with their accuracy, he is to add them all together, making in this example 54.3;^, which being divided by the number of observations (32), the result (17) will be the mean or true magnetic bearing of the object from the ship, and there- fore 17° is to be entered on every line of column No. 3. The differences between the figures in columns Nos. 2 and 3 are then to be regularly inserted in column No. 4, and as they represent the effect of the local attraction of the ship upon the needle in the binnacle, for every successive point of the compass, they cannot be more compendiously placed for the ready reference of the navigator in cor- recting his day's work. To prevent the chance of his applying them the wrong way, it will be prudent to mark them all with the signs + or — according as they are to be applied to the right or left of the course to be corrected. Or perhaps a table of the points ready corrected, such as the following, might to some seamen be more satisfactory; but whichever table is adopted, a copy of that table should be hung in the binnacle, and every person on board who keeps a reckoning should have a copy of it attached to his traverse table. Courses by Com- Courses corrected for Local Courses by Com- Courses corrected for Local Courses by Com- Courses corrected for Local Courses by Com- Courses Corrected for Local pass. Attraction. pass. Attiaclion. pass. Attraction. pass. Attraction. North N. °1 W. East S.85 E. South S. °3 W. West S. 83 W. N.byE. N. UJE. E. by S. S.71|E. S. by W. S.12 W. W.byN. N. 86JW. N.N.E. N.231E. E.S.E. S.60 E. S.S.W. S. 22iW. W.N.W. N. 75|W. N.E.byN. N.35JE. S.E.byE. S.49J-E. S.W.byS. S. 32f W. NW.byW. N. 63J-W. N.E. N.48 E. S.E. S.38 R. s.w. S.43 W. N.W. N. 51 W. N.E.byE. N.59iE. S.E. by S. S.27JE. S.WbyW. S.52JW. N.W.byN. N. 39iW. E.N.E. N. 71 E. S.S.E. S.I8|E. W.S.W. S.62^W. N.N.W. N. 26 W. E.byN. N.82|E. S. by E. S. SiE. W.by S. S.71fW. N.byW. N. 12f W. Thus if a ship was apparently steering S.E. by the compass, she would be actually steering 7° to the southward of that point or S.E.fS. and in working the day's work, the — 7° must be applied to that course ; but if on the other tack she should lie up North, only 1° would be the correction to be applied, and that with the contrary sign. The above mode of discovering the local attraction is so simple and so perfectly in every seaman's power, that surely none but the most perversely indolent will continue to blunder through their voyages as heretofore. Every ship in the Queen's service should be ordered to make a return to the commander in chief of the local attraction, in a form similar to the table we have given, and every six months the experiment should be repeated and reported. Having shewn the means by which the seaman may obtain the desired object with a single compass, we will now describe the second method, which, however, requires the assistance of two compasses and two observers. The two compasses selected for the operation, should precisely agree with each other. One of tliem mounted on a tripod stand is said to be taken on shore at a short and convenient distance from the ship, and so placed as to be easily seen from the other compass which remains on board in Its proper position in the binnacle, from whence the principal observer will watch the INTRODUCnON, XXV progress of the ship's head and by some preconcerted signals he will communicate the instant of his making each observation to his assistant on shore. The best means of doing this will be by a light staff in his hand with a little flag or a white handkerchief fixed to it. The process would be as follows : — The proper warps being prepared as in the former experiment, to check tiie rapidity of the ship's swinging, and to steady her head on each point of tlie compass for an instant, the observer on board displays his little flag, in order to warn the observer on shore to look out. A few moments may elapse with the flag up, while the ship is becoming steady and the compass settling. Then commencing at any point on which the ship's head happens to be, the bearing of the shore compass is taken, and at the same instant the flag is put down. The assistant on shore at the instant of the disappearance of the flag, observes the bearing of the compass on board, and each observer carefully registers his observation. The ship's head is then placed on the next point of the compass, when the same process is followed, and so on throughout all the other points. The observations are then tabulated, according to the following form, and the direction of the ship's head being placed against each pair of observations, their difference shews the deviation of the needle on board from the magnetic meridian. When the proper signs are applied as before explained, this table shews the effect of the local attraction for each point of the compass, and is ready for use. Direction of Ship's Bearing of Shore Compass from on Bearing of Com- passs on Board from Difference or Local Direction of Ship's Bearing of Shore Compass from on Bearing of Com- pass on Board from Difference or Local Board. Shore Compass. Attraction. Board. Shore Compass. Attraction. North s. s'e W. N. 36 E. o South S. 32 W. N. 31 E. o + 1 N. by E. S. 30i W. N. 34 E. -H S. by W. S. 33 W. N. 31 E. + 2 N.N.E. S. 30 W. N. 34^ E. -H s.s.w. S. 34 W. N. 31 E. + 3 N.E. byN. S. 32 W. N. 34i E. -n S.W.byS. S. 34iW. N. 31 E. +H N.E. S. 29 W. N. 34 E. —5 S.W. S. 35 W. N. 31 E. + 4 N.E. by E. S. 29 W. N. 341 E. — 5J S.W.by W. S. 34 W. N. 30J E. +^ E.N.E. S. 29 W. N. 34^ E. -5J W.S.W. S. 38 W. N. 33 E. + 5 E.byN. S. 25 W. N. 33 E. —8 W. by S. S. 40 W. N. 34 E. + 6 East S. 27 W. N. 34 E. -7 West S. 40 W. N. 341 E. + H E. by S. S. 27 W. N. 33 E. —6 W. by N. S. 41 W. N. 35 E. + 6 E.S.E. S. 27 W. N. 33^ E. —6 W.N.W. S. 40 W. N. 35 E. + 5 S.E. by E. S. 27 W. N. 324 E. -H N.W.byW. S. 39 W. N. 35 E. + 4 S.E. S. 28 W. N. 32 E. —4 N.W. S. 40 W. N. 36 E. + 4 S.E. by S. S. 28 W. N. 32 E. —4 N.W. byN. S. 40 W. N. 38 E. + 2 S.S.E. S. 27 W. N. 30 E. —3 N.N.W. S. 39 W. N. 37i E. + H S. by E. S. 30 W. N. 31 E. —1 N. by W. S. 38 W. N. 38 E. + Then from the foreg oing, the following table may also be formed: Courses by Com- Courses Corrected Courses by Com- Courses Corrected Courses by Com- Courses Corrected Courses by Com- Courses Corrected for Local At- traction. traction. traction. traction. North o North East S.8°3 E. South S. 1° E. West S. 84iW. N. bv E. N. 14|E. E. by S. S.72fE. S. by W. S. 9iW. W. byN. N.84JW. N.N.E. N.26iE. E.S.E. S.61|E. S.S.W. S. 19J W. W.N.W. N. 72iW. N.E. byN. N. 36iE. S.E. by E. S.50fE. S.W.byS. S. 30A W. N.W.byW. N. 60^ W. N.E. N.49 E. S.E. S.41 E. S.W. S.41 W. N.W. N.49 W. N.E. by E. N. 61fE. S.E. by S. S.29JE. S.W.byW. .S.51f W. N.W.byN. N.35JW. E.N.E. N. 73 E. S.S.E. S. ISIE. W.S.W. S.62iW. N.N.W. N. 24 W. E. by N. N. 86iE. S.byE. S.lOiE. W.byS. S.72JW. N.byW. N. lUW. Xxvi INTRODUCTION. exhibitiii"-, as before, the correct magnetic courses which the ship is actually steering when her l)ead is on tlie points placed against them, and to which corrected courses the variation is to be applied. This method, by two compasses, may after all be considered as a modification of that by one ; for the compass on shore may be supposed as always in the same line between an imaginary distant object beyond it and the compass on board, at the instant of observation. Cases may be imagined at sea, where it might be of great importance to aship, the local attraction of which had not been measured, to obtain some near approximation to its amount. This may be often effected by taking several azimuths and amplitudes of the sun with the vessel's head on various points of the compass, and thus inferring the variation due to each of these points. It is manifest that this is only a variety of our first method, described at page xxiii., the sun being employed instead of the distant terrestrial object. Again, a ship will have a thousand opportunities when in sight of the land, of setting by the compass, some very distinct well-defined cape or peak, and of throwing her head into such a variety of positions, as to furnish very considerable data for estimating the local attraction. The maximum being generally within a point or two of East and West, it will be desirable to obtain several bearings with the vessel's head in those directions. We have said in a former part of this paper that the directive effort on the needle, of the local attraction of the vessel, increases as she recedes from the magnetic equator towards the poles, and therefore the amount of local attraction is continually varying. No favourable opportunity should therefore be lost of ascertaining its amount in diffe- rent parts of the world. Each set of observations will suffice for a very large range of latitude, but all these observations, provided they were made with the same compass in the same place, should be preserved as affording useful materials for further investi- gation. As connected with this not less important than interesting subject, we deem it our duty to allude here briefly to the azimuth compass, and to urge the universal adoption of a practice, which for some years has been gradually making its way in well re- gulated ships,^ — we mean the assigning to that instrument one invariable position amidships. Being fitted on a tripod stand, the legs are always placed in the same position by means of marks in the deck, the compass consequently always takes the same place. But as this compass will have its own deviation from the magnetic meri- dian, arising from local attraction, the seamen should take care to know its amount on each point as compared with the steering compass, in order to apply the variation to that compass which may result from observations with the azimuth compass ; and we cannot too strongly insist on the necessity of making all such observations originally assigned to it, J'rom that spot alone. A disregard to this important regulation is too common at sea. If the view of the sun should be impeded by a sail, or by the rigging or masts, a position somewhere else is chosen to obviate the inconvenience, instead of the sail being taken in, or the position of the ship's head somewhat altered. Hence an incorrect result is sure of being obtained, for as the local attraction changes in every part of the vessel, so the angle of variation of any one compass, at any one part of the vessel, must be compounded of the two angles which represent the real variation, and the effect of local attraction. We may also here remind the seaman that if he wants to determine the actual variation, undisturbed by the magnetic action of the vessel, he must lay her head on the magnetic meridian or line of no attraction. The important discovery of Professor Barlow, that the influence of iron bodies on the magnetic needle lies entirely in their surfaces, was followed by his ingenious plan of neutralizing INTRODUCTION. XXVll their effects on the compass, by means of a thin iron disc, known by the name of Barlow's Correcting Plate. We will now describe the mode recommended by the professor, of applying this im- portant acquisition to ships navigating high northern or southern latitudes, where the effect of the deviating power on the needle is so much increased by the great distance from the magnetic equator. From a small code of instructions which accompany the plate we extract the following examples of finding the local attraction. They are similar to those which we have already explained ; but as they are referred to in the directions for fixing the plate, we take them accordingly. " Observations on the hearing of a distant object in H.M.S. Isabella, ivith a view of ascertaining the amount of her local Attraction. Direction of Bearing of Local Direction of Bearing of Ship's Head. Object. Attraction. Ship's Head. Object. Attraction. North N. 51 26 W. o / —1 36 South N. 47 56 W. o / 4-1 54 N.byE. 50 26 —0 36 S. by W. 48 26 XI 24 N.N.E. 49 41 + 9 s.s.w. 50 —0 13 N.E.byN. 48 41 + 1 9 S.W. by S. 50 26 —0 36 N.E. 47 51 + 1 59 S.W. 51 11 —1 21 N.E. by E. 46 56 + 2 54 S.W. by W. 52 56 —3 6 E.N.E. 46 26 + 3 24 w.s.w. 53 56 —3 6 E.byN. 45 56 + 3 54 W.byS. 54 11 —4 21 East. 45 26 +4 24 West. 55 11 —5 21 E.byS. 44 26 + 5 24 W.byN. 55 41 —5 51 E.S.E. 44 26 + 5 24 W.N.W. 55 46 —5 56 S.E.byE. 44 26 + 5 24 N.W. by W. 55 46 —5 56 S.E. 45 1 + 4 49 N.W. 55 11 —5 21 S.E.byS. 45 36 + 4 14 N.W. by N. 54 26 —4 36 S.S.E. 46 26 + 3 24 N.N.W. 53 26 —3 36 S. byE. 41 56 + 2 54 N. by W. 52 26 —2 36 "The following is an example of observations made according to the second method, on board H.M.S. Hecla, Captain Parry, May 8th, 1824: " Local Attraction of H.M.S. Hecla. Direction of Ship's BeariDg of Ship, Bearing from Ship, Station of Ship. Local Direction of Ship's Bearing of Ship, Bearing from Ship, Station of Ship. Local Head. Station from Ship. Attraction. Head. Station from Ship. Attraction. s. E. N. W. S. E. N. W. North 41° 0' 40° 50' + 0° 10' South 37° 0' 36° 58' + 0° 2' N. by E. 42 20 43 54 —1 34 S.byW. N.N.E. 42 45 51 —3 51 S.S.W. 38 30 34 53 + 3 32 N.E.byN. S. W.byS. N.E. 46 50 38 —4 38 S.W. 42 20 36 30 + 5 50 N.E. by E. 44 10 50 36 —6 26 S.W. by W. 44 38 30 + 5 30 E.N.E. 43 10 49 33 —6 23 W.S.W. 46 10 39 46 + 6 24 E.byN. 40 50 47 29 —6 39 W. by S. 47 20 40 48 + 6 32 East 30 56 43 28 —6 38 West 47 41 29 + 6 11 E.byS. 34 40 59 —6 59 W.byN. 49 41 10 + 7 50 E.S.E. 30 20 37 23 —7 3 W.N.W. 49 50 42 49 + 6 51 S.E.byE. 28 33 39 —5 39 N.W. by W. 49 40 42 58 + 5 42 S.E. 25 40 30 24 —4 44 N.W. 49 43 52 + 5 8 S.E. by S. 27 50 31 1 —3 11 N.W. by N. 47 43 24 + 3 38 SS.E. 29 40 32 —2 20 N.N.W. 45 30 42 44 + 2 46 S. by E. 30 31 30 —1 30 N.byW. 43 10 41 36 + 1 34 e2 Xx\m INTRODUCTION. " 3Iet/iod of fixing the Plate. " The local attraction being determined by either of the above methods, take the mean of the two deviations when the line of no attraction is N.E. and N.W. the mean of the two at East and West, and the mean of the two at S.E. and S.W.* In the pre- sent case these would be, mean at N.E. and N.W. 4° 53' ; mean at E. and W. 6° 24' mean at S.E. and S.W. 5° 17'. " Look for three corresponding or nearest local attractions in anyone line in the fol- lowing table, filled up with written figures sent with the plate, and opposite to them, in the^first two columns, stand the proper depth and distance that the plate is to have with respect to the compass ; that is, the first column shows the depth in inches the centre of the plate is to be fixed below the pivot of the needle ; and the second, the dis- tance it is to be placed from a plumb-line falling from the centre of the needle, — observ- ing always to place it in the line of no attraction, which in the last example, and in the generality of cases, is fore and aft ; but in the first example of the Isabella, it is in a line passing from the compass, at an angle of two points, with the keel of the vessel over the larboard bow. " In this line of no attraction, and at the depth and distance as above described, the plate may be fixed either fore or aft of the compass ; but the latter is best, particularly in northern voyages, because, when thus situated, it gives considerable freedom to the needle, and causes it to traverse where it would otherwise be useless for want of direc- tive power ; and the action of the iron being neutralized by the plate, the bearing of the needle is always correct while the latter is in its place. When it is placed before the compass, the plate is only used occasionally, its attraction is the same as the ship's, but it is in the same direction ; by applying it, therefore, at any time, the amount of the attraction may be ascertained ; but it is not neutralized as in the former case. It will of course be understood that the brass conical part, sent with the plate, is to be screwed upon the pedestal or compass-stand, to serve as a socket for the brass pin which carries the plate ; and that when the place for the plate is determined, a hole is to be drilled through the brass pin, to correspond with the hole in the socket, in which a smaller pin is inserted to keep the plate to its place." * In the first example, as the line of no attraction is oblique to the keel or fore and aft line, the mean of the points with the line of no attraction at N.E. N.W., E. and W., and at S.E. and S.W. will be, when the ship's head is E.N.E. and N.N.W. 3° 30' ; E.S.E. and W.N.W. 5° 40' ; S.S.E. and W.S.W. 3° 15'. { I INTRODUCTION. XXIX • Attractions , determined experimentally, of Plate No. 1 i oStS £■55 a.° P 1 i "3 Ill 5 5 a Sow E a oa.o 1 1 ■HO. ecO u ill § = S 1 fe S in 11 10 15 13 11 11 15 14 11 12 15 15 11 13 15 16 11 14 15 17 11 15 12 11 16 13 12 12 16 14 12 13 16 15 12 14 16 16 12 15 16 17 13 12 17 13 13 13 17 14 13 14 17 15 13 15 17 16 ■ 13 16 17 17 14 13 18 14 14 14 18 15 14 15 18 16 14 IG 18 17 Having now laid down these instructions before our readers, it is no less our duty to lay also before them the objections which have been advanced against the use of the plate. It is held that the method proposed for the correction of the local attraction is not founded on sound principles, though possibly, in a practical point of view, where the local attraction is of so small amount, no great errors might arise from the application of the plate, so long as the vessel is on an even keel, that position in which it was originally fitted. But even in this case, if a small mass of iron, placed so near to the compass as is here required, neutralize the effect of the distant large masses in some positions of the ship, in others of necessity it must fail to do so. In some cases it must leave part of the local attraction uncorrected ; in others it must over-correct that force, producing a deviation of the needle in a direction contrary to that which the local attraction would produce. This effect would arise from the length of the needle being extremely small, as compared with the distance of the large masses ; but great, relatively to the distance of the correcting plate. Professor Christie has pointed out in the Philosophical Transactions, that in a deviation of 13° or 14° by iron, at the dis- tance of twenty-four inches, there was a difference of two, in the deviation of a needle six inches long, and that of one, in a needle one and a half inches long ; and the de- viation of this again differed from the deviation of a needle of three inches long. If the vessel heels much, the resultant of the ship's attraction and that of the plate on the needle will be considerably inclined ; and cases may therefore occur, where the correcting plate might increase the effect which it was intended to counteract. i XXX INTRODUCTION. Chronometers. Lunar observa- tions. CHRONOMETERS would be highly useful for the improvement of marine geo- graphy, were navigators to adopt an uniform method, by marking in their journals the Fono-itu'de obtained by these excellent machines. In taking a departure for chrono- niefors at sailing from any port or headland, the longitude alloived to that place should be marked disti'ictly in every ship's journal ; and the longitude measured from it by chronometers to every headland, island, or danger, during the passage, ought to be carefully stated ; by which means the relative meridians of those places will be obtained, and be ready to be compared with the admeasurement of the same by other ciironometers.* But unfortnnately, the generality of navigators seldom mention in their journals the longitude which they have allowed to the place of departure; and instead of carrying on The longitude made daily from the meridian of that place, they mark longitude from the meridian of Greenwich. The journals, therefore, are of little or no use for any future purpose, on account of the indefinite manner in which the longitude is marked. ^Yhen the longitude obtained by lunar observations is carried on daily by chrono- meters, it ought also to be marked distinctly, in order to prevent any mistake. When lunar observations are taken, the objects on both sides of the moon ought always to be observed if possible, and the mean taken ; which will contribute to correct or modify the errorsof the instrument, particularly when the distances are nearly equal and fall on the same part of the arch of the sextant : and the difference of longitude run by log, between day and night observations, ought never to be applied in carrying on the one to the other, if there is a chronometer on board. Tf, for instance, some obser- vations of the sun and moon are taken in the afternoon for longitude, altitudes of the sun should be taken nearly at the same time to obtain the error of the chronometer, for the apparent time at ship ; having also marked down the time by chronometer when the distances of the sun and moon are observed, the error of chronometer must be applied to it, to reduce it to the apparent time of observation. When the observa- tions are taken afterwards by the moon and stars in the night, the time by chronometer ought likewise to be marked down, and its error applied, together with the loss or gain of the chronometer (proportionate to its daily rate) for the time elapsed between these observations and those taken in the afternoon by the sun and moon. The apparent time at ship when the observations of the moon and stars were takeit, will then be measured by chronometer to the meridian of the place where the observations of sun and moon were taken in the afternoon, and the mean of both should be taken for the longitude of that place, after comparing the apptrent time of observations with the Greenwich apparent time. By using the chronometer in this manner, the errors liable to arise from currents, and from the admeasurement of a ship's run by log, between day and night observations, will be avoided.! t • To shew the utility of this, the following example may he given. In the journals of tn-o ships, which saw the Brill Shoal and Middle Island in the Straits of Salayer, at different times, I find they had lunar ob- servations in both ships, which the journals assert may be depended upon in fixing the longitude of those places. It nevertheless happens, that the observations differ 20 miles ; for those taken in one ship make tlie BriU Shoal and Middle Island 20 miles more easterly than those of the other ship ; but having chronometers on board of both ships, they agree exactly in measuring the difference of longitude between the Brill Shoal and Middle Island, although there is a difference of 20 miles in stating the longitudes of these places by the lunar observations. t It is very perplexing to young navigators, that nautical time, or that used at sea, is 24 hours later than astronomical time ; because the nautical almanac, and all the tables in general use, are computed for astronomical time. As the security of navigation depends upon astronomy, it certainly would be of utility to resign this irregular prejudice, and make nautical time conform to astronomical time. INTRODUCTION. xxxi PRECAUTIONARY REMARKS. Conformably to the design of this work, which is the safety of lives and property, a few precautionary remarks to mariners may be introduced wliich are the result of the writer's personal observation. CORAL SHOALS, particularly when they are white or variegated, will generally Corai shoaU. be visible from the mast-head when the sun is near the zenith, and shining bright. If the situation of the observer is between the sun and coral shoals, the latter may fre- quently be discerned, although the sun's altitude is not very great; but the glare of the sun will hide them from the observer, when they are situated between him and that luminary.* Detached clouds, passing with a slow motion under the sun's disc, have their shadows often cast upon the surface of the sea, resembling greatly the appearance of coral shoals. But as a general rule, it may be observed, that coral shoals are best discerned when the sky is clear, w ith the sun shining at a great altitude ; and particularly if the situa- tion of the observer be between them and the sun, with his eye considerably elevated above the surface of the sea. Coral reefs abound chiefly within the tropics, particularly in the Indian and Pacific Oceans, and round New Holland ; many of the islands are either surrounded by these reefs or stand upon a coral base. The formation of coral reefs by zoophytes is very remarkable, as these are neither perfect animals nor vegetables, but partake of both. Most of them take root and grow up into stems, multiplying life in their branches, and in the transformation of their animated blossoms or polypes, which are endowed with spontaneous motion. Plants, therefore, resemble zoophyta, but are destitute of ani- mation and the power of locomotion ; and zoophyta are, as it were, plants, but furnished with sensation and the organs of spontaneous motion. Of these some are soft and naked, and others are covered with a hard shell ; and it is astonishing with what rapidity they form coral reefs, by taking root often at the bottom of the sea in deep water, whence the stems branch upward, and gradually but speedily, become transformed into solid rock. As these concretions of coral grow up near the surface of the sea, they become dangerous to ships ; and after they appear above it, they are gradually transmuted into islands of various dimensions, according to the extent of their original basis. Ships which stop on the East coast of Madagascar, at Cape Negrais, Tavay, Nico- Unheaith) bars, Poolo Bay, Batavia, Borneo, or at any place within the tropics, where the country p'*"*' is low, woody, uncultivated, and considered unhealthy, ought not to allow any of their people to remain on shore during the night, when wooding and watering at such * There is a little instrument, recently brought into use for the express purpose of discovering shoals under these circumstances. It consists simply of a piece of tourmaline, set in a small tube, for the convenience of ^ applying it to the eye, — the tourmaline having the property of neutralizing the glaring effects of the sun's rays. V xxxu INTRODUCTION. Swimming. On stowage to prevent ships from labouring in stormy wea. ther. places : nor should they be sent on shore in the mornings, until the noxious vapours are dispersed, by the influence of the sun penetrating into the forests. Persons who have not learned to swim, when they fall into the sea by accident, often drown themselves by lifting their hands above the surface, with a rapid and irre"-ular motion. With proper resolution this may be avoided, for a, gentle and slow motion of the hands U7ider the surface of the water, either obliquelij ov perpendicularly , like the feet of a dog when swimming, will be sufficient to keep the face of any person above the service, if there is no broken water. This will be more obvious, when it is generally known that the specifiic gravity of the human body is commonli/ lighter than sea water, as many persons float on the surface of the sea without any motion. The natural position for persons to float in, is on their backs, with their arms, whicli act as levers, extended close under the surface, to preserve them in the natural position. If a person floating on his back place his arms close to his side or across his breast, he will soon be changed from the horizontal position, for his feet will descend perpendicularly, and then his mouth and nose will gradually be iramerged under the surface. If in floating, his arms are extended perpendicularly from his body, he will generally remain in the natural position a considerable time before his feet begin to descend from the horizontal to the vertical position. If his arms are extended beyond his head, with the palms of his hands spread just under the surface of the water, he will float steadily in the horizontal position, with his face above the water, and his toes touching tlie surface. In this manner the author has frequently floated, in warm climates, half an hour at a time without the least motion, and generally was inclined to sleep : by placing the arms a little forward or backwuid the natural floating position is always adjusted to the greatest degree of regularity. It ought, however, to be observed, that the specific gravity of some persons is rather heavier than sea water, and such persons cannot float with their faces above the surface for any considerable time without employing a little motion with their feet. When ships are chiefly laden with dead iveight, such as iron, lead, zinc, &c., they labour and roll greatly ; to modify which, part of the dead weight is generally placed high in the hold, or between the decks. This, however, has little effect in retarding the quick rolling motion, which frequently endangers the masts when there is much swell ; for the dead weight being placed over the whole breadth of ships acts as a pendulum on the sides, to augment the rolling motion. Returning from China, in the Anna, by the eastern passage, laden deeply with sugar and tuthenag, we had a gale of wind near the Pellew Islands in which the ship rolled very quick, broke some of the rigging and the foretopmast. In order to prevent this quick and dangerous rolling, tuthenag was taken from the hold, and placed in great quantities upon the decks, until the ship had scarcely stability left to carry proper sail ; notwithstanding, there was very little diminution of her rolling. Were it possible to compress all the dead weight contained in a ship into a ball, and then to place it at the centre of motion, she would in such case roll very little, because there would be no heavy weight near her extreme breadth. But as this cannot be done, an approximation seems desirable, which may be effected by stowing all the light goods along the sides and at the extremities, and the heavy articles in a longitudinal section over, and on each side of the keel, from the fore to the after hatchway, as cir- cumstances require; and the dead weight may be carried up to the deck in this manner. INTRODUCTION. XXXlll or to any height consistent with the stability of the ship. This method was adopted in loading the Anna, when a great proportion of her cargo was iron, and she was very easy during the passage from London to Bombay ; for the light goods being placed at the extremities and in tivo sections along the sides of the ship, the cause of her pitching and rolling, was thereby greatly limited.* EXPLANATORY REMARKS. Explanatory remarks are here necessary, on account of the ambiguous terms applied On the com. in common language to the direction of the winds, waves, and currents. "^^ei wTheX The point from which the wind proceeds usually gives it its name: when the wind ruction of T- *^ IV 1 nils w 'IVGS \)\o\\Bjrom the North, it is called a North wind, and vice versa. This order, however, currents, &c. ' seems to have been sometimes reversed by navigators ; in the early voyages of the Por- tuguese to India, the wind that blows from N.E. is in some journals called the S.W. monsoon; and that which blows _/)owj S.W. is called the N.E. monsoon; thereby, taking the name of the place to which the wind is proceeding. The terms used by navigators to signify the direction of the waves, are also very vague and undefined; for although, like the wind, the waves generally receive the name of the direction /row which they proceed, the waves or swell running from North to South being called a northerly swell, and in like manner for those running in any other direction; this is not always the case; as the waves or swell running from North to South, is called in some journals a southerly swell. The terms applied to the direction of currents, are generally the reverse of those used to denote the direction of the wind and waves ; as the direction to which the current is going commonly gives it its name ; so that a current running from North to South is almost uniformly called a southerly current, and that running from East to West, a westerly current. Some navigators, however, have been disposed to reverse this order ; for one of our circumnavigators, in his voyage to the South Sea, calls a cur- rent running from East to West, an easterly current, and vice versa. From the indefinite mode, therefore, in use amongst navigators, of marking the direc- tion of the winds, waves, and currents, it seems necessary to state in what manner these terms of direction are applied throughout this work. The direction of the wind is named according to the point^Vom which it blows. Terms how The direction of the waves, swell, or sea, is named according to the ^o\nt from work." '"^ whence they proceed. The direction of the current is named according to the point to which it is running, if not otherwise expressed. The course steered by a ship, signifies her course by comjmss, or magnetic. All the bearings are by comjtass, if not otherwise expressed. THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS of the pma>aZ places mentioned in this pinnsadopted to secure per- j. ■ 1 1- 1 1 ... ., . spicuity and * Articles liable to ignition, such as oil of vitriol, paint, oil, &c., ought not to be stowed below, but if pos- faciliiy of re. sible should be placed in a safe place above the decks, in order to prevent the risk of fire. Even coal has been ference. found subject to spontaneous ignition at times, which was experienced at Calcutta in October 1832, on board the ship London, after her arrival from England. She had received from a collier in the River Thames about 300 tons of pyritous coal, from which a quantity of smoke was perceived to issue, and a portion of it to have ignited, producing a blue flame when water was poured on the red-hot mass. After removing these ignited coals from the hold, one of the pillars of the lower deck beams was found to be nearly burnt through. The Lord Hungerford, the same season, in the Bay of Bengal, only escaped destruction by deluging her hold with water, as coals of the same kind had ignited also in this ship. f Xxxiv INTRODUCTION. Avork are stated. The names of the Ports, Headlands, Islands, and Dangers, with which the paragraphs generally commence, have been set forth in capitals, in order to render them more conspicuous, and that navigators may not be liable to lose time in searching for anyplace of which the description is required ; because it frequently hap- pens in critical situations at sea, that a small loss of time may occasion considerable danger. To facilitate the same object, side notes have been added, which will be found contiguous to, or fronting, the principal matter contained in each paragraph. And to accomplish this object in the highest degree, a copious general index is placed at the end of each volume. ENGLAND TOWARDS INDIA. TOWARDS MADEIRA; PLACES OF SHELTER NEAR THIS ROUTE. THE LIZARD POINT, being in lat. 49° 57|' N., Ion. 5° 12' W., and CAPE Lizard Point FINISTERRE the westernmost promontory of Spain in lat. 42° 54' N., Ion. 9° 17' ''^^„^Zl. W., when clear of the Channel, if the wind continue fair, steer to pass to the westward of Cape Finisterre, at 20, 40, or 50 leagues distance. If the wind prevail at West or AV.S.W., pass round the Cape as near as prudence admits, then stand to the south- ward, and do not lose time by endeavouring to pass it at a great distance ; for the wind will probably become more favourable in proceeding southward, and in winter it is a great advantage to get out of the cold weather as soon as possible. If the projecting part of the French coast, at the entrance of the Channel happen to be approached, it is proper to observe, that Ushant Light is in lat. 48° 28' 21" N., and Ushant. in Ion. 5° 3' 19" W. The soundings near Ushant are 64 and 65 fathoms : — high water Tides. about 4^ hours on full and change of the moon. Variation of the compass about 26^° W. (1828). in the Bay of Biscay, and to the westward of Ushant, the current sets to the west- Currents near ward at times in winter ; but in summer, it generally sets N.E. and easterly. It is and*Ba*y of often found to set eastward from March to Novemljer, particularly when westerly Biscay. winds prevail ; and off Cape Finisterre, and near the South part of the Bay, it sets mostly along the Coast to the eastward ; and along the East side of the Bay it sets to the northward, parallel to the West Coast of France.* Caution is therefore requisite with a westerly wind, in standing to the southward, to weather Cape Finisterre : for with a ship's position not correctly ascertained, it would be imprudent in cloudy weather to stand to the southward in the night, if not certain of being well to the westward of the Cape.f * Major Rennell, im his investigation of the Currents of the Atlantic Ocean, says, that a branch of the North African or Guinea Current " passes into the Southern part of the Bay of Biscay, and after coasting the Northern shore of Spain, turns to the N. and N. W. along the coast of France ; and shooting across the mouth of the English and Irish Channels, bends round to the W., and thence through all the intermediate points to the S.E. ; and falling again into the original current, performs a complete rotation between Spain, France, and the Atlantic at large. It is the outer or N. E. side of this vortex, which, by a kind of centrifugal motion, flies off to the N. W. and across the two Channels, and forms the current which so often places ships in danger near Scilly." f A deplorable example of Jhis, was experienced by his Majesty's ship Apollo, with a fleet of 69 ships under convoy for the West Indies. Having sailed from the Cove of Cork, March 26, 1804, with a fair wind blowing strong, they steered about W. S. W. till the 31st, the wind then came more to the westward. At noon, April 1, the observed lat. 40° 51' N., Ion. 12° 29' W., by account. At 8 p. m. the wind shifted to S. W. and increased B BAY OF BISCAY. N. w. gales. Gales from W.N.W. sometimes blow into the Bay of Biscay, continuing for several days, and some of the outward-bound East-India ships have been driven far into the Bay during these gales in April and May. if a ship have the misfortune to lose any of her masts during one of these gales, the heavy sea rolling in from N.W. and W.N.W. with an easterly current, would unavoidably force her to leeward ; and should the gale continue long and severe, she might be in danger of drifting on a lee-shore. It may therefore be expedient to give a brief description of places in tlie Bay of Biscay which are sheltered from gales at N.W. or W.N.W. BELLE-ILE and BASQUE ROAD are the places which afford the best shelter for large ships in westerly gales. Beiie-Ue. BELLE-ILE is about 10 miles long from N.W. to S.E., and 5 miles broad, and lies between the parallels of 47° 24' and 47° 16' N., and being high may be seen at a great distance. The N.W. end is surrounded with rocl:s, and nearly in the line between it and He Grouais, mid-way between them, is the Birvideaux Bank. A ship approaching the island with the wind at N.W. or W.N.W., should steer along the South side at 2 miles distance, to Point du Canon, the S.E. extremity ; and when abreast of this point, haul up for Point Kerdonis, called in some of our charts Point Loc-maria, which is the easternmost point of the island, distant about 2 miles from the former, anchoring under it in 8, 10, or 15 fathoms, where she will be sheltered from N.W. and westerly winds. If the wind should veer to S. W., she may run to the northward of the point and anchor on the N.E. side of the island. — There is now a revolving light near the S.W. part of the island, in lat. 47° 18' 40" N., and Ion. 3° 1.3' 31" W. He Hedic. ILE HEDIC, about 7 miles eastward of Belle-He, is, with its contiguous dangers, the termination of the rocky range which stretches S.E. from the peninsula of Quiberon. Near the East point of the island there is a small fixed light, whicli may be seen, in clear weather, about 3 leagues. Off the S.E. end of the island lies a cluster of rocks, called the Cardinals : the largest is distant from Hedic about a mile, and is always above water. If a ship be driven to the eastward of Belle-He, she may pass to the southward of the Cardinals a mile distant, then haul up to the northward, and anchor on the East side of them and He Hedic, in 9 or 10 fathoms, sand and mud. iieR^, &c. Ships bound to Rochelle, or Rochefort, steer for He Re, which has a lighthouse on its N.W. end, in lat. 46° 14' 44" N., Ion. 1° 33' 35" W. In running for this island, care is requisite to avoid two reefs of rocks, on which the sea sometimes breaks, called the Banche Verte, and Roche Bonne : they are nearly 2 leagues in extent S.E. and N.W., distant about 12 leagues West from He Re, in about lat. 4(3° 12' N. Near them to the westward there are 60 fathoms water, and 30 fathoms to the eastward of them. From the West point of He Re, a rocky bank, called Les Baleines, extends under water about a league; and from the S.W. part of the island a ridge of rocks, shotf'" called Chanchardon, extends a full league to seaward; but the Lavardin Shoal is to a gale with a heavy sea; they stood S. S. eastward, and at half-past 3 on the following morning struck on the coast of Portugal, in lat. about 40° 22' N., 3 leagues northward from Cape Mondego. A few sights obtained, for even an indifferent chronometer, on the day preceding this fatal catastrophe, when the sun was visible, or by stars m the night, would have prevented this deplorable loss of lives and immense property ! No ship should be without two or three chronometers. COAST OF SPAIN. 3 most in the way. It is a small rocky bank, dry at low-water spring-tides, about H miles off the S.E. end of He Re. He Oleron lies to the South of He Re, and between them is a channel, about 2 leagues wide, called Pertuis d'Antioche, leading to Basque Road. It is safer to keep nearer He Re than Oleron, on account of some rocky banks, called the Antioches, which lie half a league off the North end of the latter, and which bank.s extend about the same distance from the shore along its N.E. side till abreast of the South end of He d'Aix. When near the S.E. end of He Re steer to the southward, to avoid the Lavardin Shoal already mentioned, lying ]| or 2 miles off the S.E. end of He Re ; afterwards steer for the West part of He d'Aix, a flat island, with some houses on it, situated about half-way between Oleron and the main land, keeping nearer Oleron than the main. BASQUE ROAD extends from the Lavardin Shr,al to He d'Aix, having from 10 Basque Road. fathoms water close to the shoal, to 12 and 1.3 fathoms in the middle of the road ; and from 5 to 9 fathoms about 1^ miles to the North and N.W. of He d'Aix. The sound- ings in mid-channel, between Oleron to the southward and He Re and Lavardin Shoal to the northward, are generally from 12 to 1-5 fathoms, shoaling on each side toward the banks. On the northern extremity of Oleron, there is a lighthouse-tower, called Chassiron, shewing a fixed light, in hit. 46° 2' 51" N., and Ion. 1° 24' 29" W. If there be much sea in Basque Road, a ship may run up along the West side of He d'Aix, taking care to keep nearer to it than to Oleron, to avoid the bank off the latter ; and then anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms, off the S.W. end of Isle d'Aix, in the inner road. There is S, small fixed light on the fort near the point. BAYONNE and BILBAO are confined harbours, and have not sufficient water for Bayonncand large ships over the bars at their entrances. Vessels should not attempt to enter them ^'"""'• without a pilot. THE COASTS OF PORTUGAL AND SPAIN having been sometimes visited by coastsof Por. India ships, when forced by stormy weather to take shelter in some of the nearest ports s"^j||,''"'* in order to repair damage sustained, it may therefore be useful to describe briefly some of the principal headlands and best harbours on the western side of the Peninsula. CAPE ORTEGAL, the northernmost headland of Spain, is in lat. 4.3° 48' N., Ion. 7° capes oncgni 46' W. ; and about 12 leagues to the south-westward of it, is Cape Prior, in lat. 43° 35' N., "'"' ^'"'"• having a very ragged aspect, with some rocks near it, which require a berth in passing. This Cape is above 2 leagues to the N.W. of the entrance into Ferrol, and between 4 and 5 leagues from the Iron tower, or lighthouse of the Groin, or Coruiia. FERROL BAY, which forms the entrance to its harbour, is 7 miles to the southward i l""'- of Cape Prior, and is a mile wide, narrowing gradually till it terminates in a channel not more than 2 cables across, which leads to the harbour, and which has sufiicient deptli of water in mid-channel for large ships at all times of tide. When a vessel comes near the Bay of Ferrol, the haven begins to open, and you sail in mid-channel between two headlands ; but when within, steer to the northward and anchor by the North point, for it is rocky and fiat on the West side of the town, and therefore must be avoided. B 2 COAST OF PORTUGAL. Corufia. Salvora Isle, and Arosa Bay. OnzA Isles, and Ponteve- dra Bay. To enter Ferrol from the southward or westward (after giving a berth to the North point of Ferrol, wliich is foul and rocky until the haven opens), run right in, and you will be within the South point, clear of its projecting foul ground ; steer now for the INorth i)oint of the haven, and along by it, till the haven opens itself again ; from thence keep in mid-channel, where are 12, 14, and 15 fathoms water, though the passage is so narrow that a stone may be thrown across it. CORUNA is situated at the bottom of a deep bay, within the mouth of a spacious haven, S.W. of Ferrol, and on the opposite side of the gulf. To enter this port, havinjr made the Sizarga Islands, which being foul must have a good berth, steer for the remarkable lighthouse called the Tower of Hercules, and run in E.S.E., and round the point steering S.E. and S.S.E., giving it a berth of 4 or 5 cables-lengths. In passing the point, the small Isle of St. Antonio will be seen with a castle on it, round which a ship may sail very close, and anchor oft" the Fishing Village in G, 7, or 8 fathoms. Vigo Bay and Bayona Isles. Cape Mon- dego. Cape Car- voeiro. Burlings and Estellas. SALVORA ISLE, in lat. 42° 28° N., fronts the bay or gulf of Arosa, which is a deep and excellent haven, extending from the Isle about N.E. a great way inland, having good shelter and moderate depths, with several shoals. The channel into this bay is on the South and East side of Salvora Isle, where a ship is sheltered inside the Isle ; but there is no safe passage on the N.W. side of this Isle, it being nearly joined to the main by shoals. THE ONZA ISLES, situated oft" the inlet of Pontevedra, have on the East side safe anchorage from westerly winds. They are two in number, and extend about four miles from North to South. The northern one, which is much the larger, is called 0ns, the southern one Onza. The South point of the latter is in lat. 42° 2 1' N., oft" which, at the distance of half a mile, there is a rocky shoal on which the sea breaks in rough weather. Fresh water may be procured at these Islands. VIGO, in lat. 42° 14' N., Ion. 8° 27 VV., is situated on the S.E. side of an excellent bay or haven, which is fronted by the Bayona Isles, extending from lat. 42° 11' N. to 42° 15' N., and on the East side of these Isles, there is safe anchorage and shelter from the sea and from westerly winds, in 10 and 12 fathoms. The best channel into Vigo Bay, is to the South of these Isles ; for the northernmost Isle has a sunken rock about a cable's-length oft", which must have a proper berth in entering by the northern channel. When entering the bay, run up in mid-channel, and anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms off Vigo; or farther in, about Point Rondal, where a ship, if destitute of anchors, may be laid in the mud and receive no injury. CAPE MONDEGO, in lat. 40° 1 1' N., Ion. 8° 53' W., is a projecting headland on the coast of Portugal, with a reef stretching out about a cable's-length, having good anchorage and shelter on the South side from North and N.N.W. winds. CAPE CARVOEIRO, in lat. 39° 22' N., Ion. 9° 24' W., is a rocky headland, with a lighthouse like a church on its extremity, and being separated by a low sandy isthmus from the inland country, it appears in thick weaUier like an island, by which some ships, mistaking it for the Burlings, have run on shore on the sandy isthmus. BURLING ISLAND, in lat. 39° 25' N., is of middling height and size, bearing from RIVER TAG US. 5 Cape Carvoeiro, N.W. by N., distant G miles nearly. N.W. of the Burlinjr, ^ a mile distant, lie six islets, called the Estellas, in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. line, with a rock about ^ mile to the southward of the southernmost one, visible at low water ; there is also a high rock at a small distance N.E. of the Burling. FARILHAOS, are a cluster of small islets and rocks, 4 miles north of the Burling. Fariihaos. There is a safe channel, about 3 miles wide, between this aroup and the Estellas; but as the current sets toward the latter, it should not be used without a commanding breeze. The channel between Cape Carvoeiro and Burling Island, being 5^ miles wide, vvith soundings, may be navigated without fear of danger, and a ship may anchor occasionally under the Burlings. CAPE ROCA is formed of steep cliffs, with a rocky islet adjoining it, termed ^^p« ''"'^a. by seamen the Rock of Lisbon, from which a reef projects about a musket shot, having 25 fathoms water close to. On the summit of the Cape is a Tower, in lat. 38" 46' 30" N., Ion. 9" 30' W., on which a fixed light is exhibited. Cape Razo is a low rocky point, distant 4 miles S. by W. from Cape Roca, having on it Fort Sanxete, or Sinchette, and adjoining it a small shoal. About ^ a league S. E. by S. from Cape Razo is the fort and lighthouse of Guia, and a mile farther to the east- ward are the Forts Santa Martha and Cascaes. Round the point on which they stand, the coast bends to the northward, forming Cascaes Bay ; on the West side of which is the town of Cascaes, where pilots may be obtained for the Tagus. Fort St. Julian, at the entrance of the River, bears from Fort Santa Martha E. by S., distant 4^ miles. THE RIVER TAGUS at its entrance is about 2|- miles wide, between Fort St. River xagus. Julian and the low sandy point of the south-eastern shore. The Channel is, however, contracted to less than a mile in width, by the two sand-banks, called the North and South Cachops, on the latter of which stands the Bugio fort and lighthouse. Fort St. Julian stands on a steep point, having a tower 120 feet high in the centre of the fort, which serves for a lighthouse. From St. Julian to the tower of Belem the distance is five miles E. byS.; and the coast between them forms a bay with numerous edifices, some of which, situated about the middle of the bay, serve as marks for the Great Bar, or principal entrance. The North Cachop extends about 3 miles to the south-westward of Fort St. Julian, and the sea breaks on it vvith a westerly wind. The channel between this bank and the North shore is called the Corridor or Little Bar, having 5 and 6 fathoms water, but being narrow can only be used with a fair wind. The South Cachop is a sand-bank, having on it the tower of Bugio, formed of two circular concentric buildings, on the middle of wliich rises a little tower, 63 feet high, from which is exhibited a revolving light, bearing from St. Julian S. S. E. f E., distant t^ miles. The tower is isolated by the sand being covered every tide, and the bank extends from it 2 miles to the S.W. The Great Bar is formed between the The Bar and outer points of the North and South Cachops, and has on it a depth from 5^ to 10 '"""' ' fathoms. The channel is no where less than f of a mile wide, with from 10 to 18 fathoms good bottom ; a bank stretches across between the Cachops, having not less than 8 or 9 fathoms on it, and increasing to 15 and 20 fathoms inside. The water shoals suddenly to both the Cachops, having 6 or 7 fathoms close to. To cross the Great Bar with a fair wind, the leading marks should be brought on Toenterthe before the meridian of Cascaes is passed, or by bringing Cape Roca lighthouse on '^"'" with that of Guia, which will be sufficiently to the westward of the Cachops till the PASSAGE TO MADEIRA. Tides. Lisbon Obser- TStory. Paijs* be discerned ; these must be brought in one with Jacob's Ladder,! and so kept until the Tower of'St. Julian bear W.N.VV. or West, when the North shore of the river may be naviijated to tiie anchorage of Belem. If, wiien near the bar, a strong westerly wind prevent pilots from getting on board, or if the marks be not clearly discerned, do not pass the meridian of Cascaes till Belem Tower be brought on with the North end of the outer wall of Bugio, bearing E. I N. Steer on this bearing till the Tower of St. Julian bear N.E. ; being then in mid- channel, steer for the Turret of Caxias, which bears E.N.E. ; keep this course till abreast of Paco d'Arcos, then coast the northern shore to Belem. If the Miiante or Turret of Caxias be not seen, then, as soon as the tower of St. Julian bears N.E., you will be 2^ miles from Bugio, for which steer no longer, but steer midway between St. Julian and Bugio, or so as to make good an E.N.E. course until past the bar. The North shore of the river is the safer of the two to approach, the anchorage being better, the depths less, and the tides not so strong as near the South shore. During the freshes, the ebb tide runs frequently 6 miles an hour in the channel, requiring a press of sail to stem it, and at such times, when westerly winds blow strong, the sea breaks all across the bar between the Cachops, and cannot be easily distinguished from the breakers on the Cachops. It is high water on the bar at 2^ hours on full and change of the moon. The observatory of Lisbon is in lat. 38° 42' 40" N., Ion. 9° 8' 30" W. Passage to Ma. After Icaviug the English Channel, steer to pass the island of Madeira, at any **""• convenient distance exceeding 7 or 8 leagues. In the winter months, it is preferable to pass to the westward, for strong westerly gales prevail in November, December, and January, producing eddy winds and severe squalls near the land, occasioned by Westerly gales, the high land obstructing the regular course of these gales. In November 1797 and December 1799, I was forced to put to sea from Funchal Road. Severe westerly and S.W. gales, with hard squalls and rain, kept us at sea eight days each time, and pre- vented us from anchoring afterwards; the W.S.W. wind continuing to blow strong. In these gales, the island of Madeira and the Desertas were frequently obscured in fog; and the squalls so sudden and violent near the latter, and about the S.E. end of the former, as nearly to overset one of the ships in company. J * Two little mounts, about 2 miles N. by E. of Belem Tower, which are visible at a great distance. t Seven walls or causeways, built to support the soil on the S. E. declivity of a round hill of yellow colour near the sea, 260 feet high. On the top of this hill is a turret, called Caxias, 3 miles E. J N. from St. Juhan, formed of two octagonal structures conjoined, each 33 feet high, and terminated in a cupola of similar shape. A good mark for Jacob's Ladder is a long wall near it to the eastward, the buttresses of which, on the side of the Tagus, appear like the arches of a bridge. I November 28, 1797, blowing hard at S.W. off the S.W. end of Madeira, and a high sea rising, we bore away in the Carron, to endeavour to find shelter under the lee of the island. In running between Madeira and the Desertas, blowing very hard at S. W. with dark weather and rain, we were suddenly becalmed ; then fol- lowed an eddy wind from N. E., the sea so high as frequently to cover the bowsprit and jib-boom. At this time we were much nearer to Madeira than to the Desertas, with a dark cloud extending over us. At the same time, two ships about 2 or 3 miles more eastward, were in clear sunshine, running before a severe squall at S. W. ; and one of them had her main topsail blown away. In December 1799, by carrying a press of sail on the Anna, we just cleared the southernmost Deserta, in very thick weather, during one of these westerly storms, which drove us 2° eastward from Funchal. Several outward-bound West India ships were not long ago dashed in pieces on the Desertas in the night, by an error in their reckoning. r PORTO SANTO. — DESERTAS. — MADEIRA. 7 PORTO SANTO is a high island with several peaked hills on it, about 12 or 14 PonoSamo. leagues north-eastward from the East end of Madeira, and is generally seen by ships bound for the latter : it is surrounded by several small islands, and has a bay and small town on the south side, with anchorage, water, and refresliments. There is a small island oft" each of the points which form the bay. Although Porto Santo is not so high as Madeira, it may be seen 12 or 14 leagues from a ship's deck ; and is easily distinguished from Madeira or the Desertas, by its peaks and uneven appearance, these islands having a more regular outline. Tiie village on the S,W. side is, by Capt. Owen's survey, in lat. 33°V N., Ion. 16° 18|'W. The existence of the danger called the Eig/it Stones, to which several positions Eight sio„es. North of Madeira have been assigned, between the parallels of 34° and 35° and the meridians of 16° and 17°, appears to be extremely doubtful; many of H. M. vessels having by Admiralty order passed over the spot, with the express object of discovering them, but hitherto in vain. The Reef said to lie 3 leagues to the N.E. of Porto Santo, on which a Dutch ship Dutci. shoai or was lost, has been found by H. M. S. Falcon to bear about N. 18° W., true bearing, ^^^^'°" ''"^'''■ from the body of the island, distant from the nearest point about 5 miles. The Falcon, Lieutenant J. Bowen, examined this reef, or rocky bank, on the 10th of January, 1802. It extends East and West about a mile, terminating in a point of rocks to the westward, on which the least water appeared to be 4^ fathoms. Lieutenant Bowen remarks, that when the bearings were taken upon it in the boat, the compass was agitated by her motion, and therefore they may not be perfectly correct; but he is certain that the boat was on the shoalest part, otherwise the sea must have broke on it had there been less water, by the considerable swell and fresh breeze which prevailed at the time. Coming on to blow, he was prevented from making further observations. With the wind from the northward or N.E., bound to Fuuchal, the channel between Madeira and the Desertas is the most convenient, and seems about 4 leagues wide from the East point of Madeira to the Flat or Table Deserta, which bounds it to the eastward. THE DESERTAS are three high barren islands, the northernmost being much Deserws. lower than the others and level. The middle Deserta is the largest, between which and the southernmost, called Bogia, there is a narrow channel, never to be attempted unless from necessity, as a ship is liable to be becalmed in it by the northern Deserta, which over-tops Bogia. The fleet under convoy of H. M. S. Lavinia, bound to India, and to touch at Funchal, passed through the channel between the Middle and South Desertas, in May 1809. They mistook the Desertas for Madeira, and after steering for the South extreme of the Large or Middle Deserta, proceeded through the chan- nel between it and the southern Island ; this channel is 1 or fi miles wide at most, and seems perfectly clear of danger. None of the ships tried for soundings, but the fishermen say, that bottom may be got with 60 to 300 fathoms of line, according to the distance from either shore. The Desertas stretch nearly North and South, and have rather an even appearance, and are about 5 leagues in extent. The northernmost small level island is seen at 5 or 6 leagues distance, just appearing above the water, and close to its North end there is a pyramidal rock, which may be mistaken for a ship under sail. MADEIRA is very high, and is generally clouded, exceptin serene weather ; the East Madeira. point in about lat. 32° 44' N., projects in a kind of peninsula, rather low and rugged, forming to the soutliward an indentation or bay, in which soundings are said to be found 8 MADEIRA. Prevailin winds. Southerly gales. Indication of them. Directions for sailing to Fun cbal Road. near the shore. There is a perpendicular high cliff' of majestic appearance, about 3^ PontadcSoi. leanues westward from Fiinchal, called Ponta de Sol, with a small bay to the east- ward of it, said to have anchorage in it near the shore. In westerly gales and stormy weather, Ponta de Sol {Point of' the Sim) is often ornamented with beautiful portions of rainbows, which give it a grand appearance. In summer, when the weather is settled, oft" Funchal Valley there are regular land and sea breezes ; the sea-breeze .setting in from south-westward in the forenoon, and the land-breeze coming from the shore generally about 10 o'clock at night, but sometimes not till 2 or 3 o'clock in the morning. These land-breezes do not extend above 3 or 4 miles ofl^shore. It has been said, that southerly winds never blow severely quite to the shore at Funchal ; that the south-westers or south-easters are never expected, except in January, February, and the beginning of March, and that large ships always ride them out ; whereas, it is certain, these southerly gales blow quite home to Funchal, sometimes in November and December ; and when they are apprehended, it is common for ships of every description to put to sea. These S.W. or S.E. gales are in general preceded by a swell tumbling into the road, often accompanied by gloomy weather, drizzling rain, and an unsettled breeze from the land, veering several points backward and forward very suddenly. With such indications, ships generally proceed to sea, for should it blow from the southward, it would be almost impossible to clear the shore on either tack after cutting or slipping, the anchorage being near the land. Some ships have rode out these southerly gales, but others have been driven on shore.* Passing through the channel between Madeira and the Desertas, it is necessary to preserve a considerable distance from the land to prevent being drifted in calm weather near either, there being no anchorage. In November, 1797, the Anna drifted in a calm very near the shore to the northward of the Brazen Head, and brought up with the stream anchor in GO fathoms water, her stern not far from the rocky cliffs. After being at anchor some time, a light breeze from the land, with the help of the boats towing, enabled her to get out from this perilous situation. When a ship has advanced through the channel, and is approaching Brazen Head, she should not keep near it, in case of being becalmed, as there is no anchorage close to this steep bluff" point, which is the eastern extreme of Funchal Road. Near this bluff" head-land, ships are frequently baffled by eddy winds and calms, and are obliged to get their boats out to tow ; it is therefore advisable not to borrow too closely to it in passing, nor to haul in for the road till nearly abreast of the town. If a ship enter the road by night, it is proper to show a light at her ensign staflT, to prevent being fired at from the forts. Working in with a land breeze, it is best to make short tacks opposite the valley, for here both the land and sea breezes prevail. The Anchorage. Loo Rock, situatcd near the shore, at the West end of the town, is a high rock with a fort on it; and the Citadel is a brown square fort on a hill, over to the N.W. part of the town. The best berth for large ships is;the Citadel a little open to the eastward of the Loo Rock, in 30 or 35 fathoms water ; the distance from the Loo Rock will then not much exceed half a mile. With the Loo Rock and Citadel in one, bearing about N.N.E. i E., Funchal steeple N.E. ^ N., the anchorage appears equally good, in 35 fathoms stiff" ground. With the Loo Rock and Citadel in one, the ground is also good in 45 fathoms, about a mile off" the former. Farther to the westward the ground is not so good, and to the eastward the * Not long ago, several ships at anchor in Funchal road were driven on shore, and vprecked by one of these gales. This, I think, happened in April or May. The S. W. gales are more frequent at Funchal than any other strong winds. MADEIRA— TOWARDS THE CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS. bank has a sudden declivity from 50 to 55 fathoms good ground, to 100 fathoms rock, and then no ground. If south-westers are expected, wliich are frequent in winter, to anchor with the Loo and Citadel in one, or the latter, just open to the westward of the Loo, is the most convenient berth to put to sea from, or to ride out a S.W. gale. But the Citadel well open to the eastward of the Loo is the best anchorage when south- easters are expected. In coming into Funchal Road with a brisk wind, sail should be Caution, reduced in time, to prevent having too much way through the water, at the time of anchoring; and a ship should be brought up with her head to seaward, that in case any accident should prevent her bringing up, sail can be made off shore, or otherwise as most expedient. When there is the least appearance of unsettled weather, it is best to ride with a whole cable, with a slip buoy on it, in case of being obliged to cut near the end or splice, and put to sea quickly; as there would not be time to weigh the anciior, by the sudden approach of blowing weather. In light breezes and calms, it is proper to have a kedge anchor out to steady the ship, and prevent fouling the bower. The beach is composed of shingle, and has generally a surf on it, which prevents a ship's boat from landing abreast the town; but on the N.W. side of the Loo Rock, about half a mile from the town, is the only place safe to land from a ship's boat ; the country boats are employed in vvatering, &c. In summer, when the N.E. wind prevails, a S.W. current sets through the channel between Madeira and the Desertas. The current along the South side of Madeira and current. the Desertas mostly sets to leeward in strong gales; but at the conclusion of a gale, it sometimes changes suddenly, and sets contrary to the wind. The tides rise and fall Tides. about 9 feet in general at full and change, when it is high water at 12h. 15m, The rainy season is said to be January, February, and March ; October is also frequently a Rainy sea wet month. And when hard westerly gales blow in November, or more particularly in December, they bring with them cloudy weather and rain. There have been instances of hurricanes blowing down through the Valley of Funchal ; storms. a condensed cloud once poured a torrent of water on the mountain at the head of the valley, which deluged many vineyards in its passage, and washed away some of the houses in the town.* Funchal is in lat. 32° 38' 40''' N. by above 100 meridian altitudes of Stars on both sides the zenith, observed by General Sir Thomas Brisbane and Professor Rumker, in June 1821. Dr. Tieirks, in 1822, was sent with 14 good chronometers, in H.M.S. Owen Glen- dower, for the express purpose of measuring the difference of longitude between Greenwich and Funchal. He made the longitude of the British Consul's House 16° 53' 45"' W. Position of Funchal. FROM MADEIRA TO THE SOUTHWARD : SALVAGES, CANARIES, AND CAPE DE VERDE S. On leaving Funchal, steer directly from the shore, to prevent being baffled by calms From Madeira or eddy winds under Ponta de Sol, or the Brazen Head, for vessels are liable to calms J^aJ^! ^°""'' under the hisrh land. * The small-pox is much dreaded at Madeira ; were a ship discovered to have this distemper on board, she would be ordered to leave the port. 10 SALVAGES, — CANARIES. Salvages. Canary Is- lands. Palma. Departing from Madeira, or after passing it to the westward, the usual track is to the westward of the Canary and Cape de Verde Islands, at any discretional distance, or barely in sight of them, where steadier winds may be expected, than close to, or among these islands. The Britannia, outward-bound in November 1803, had W.S.W. and S.W. winds, and was several days close to the coast of Africa, in lat. 29° N. In January 1795, the Swallow, after passing in sight of the Canary Islands to the westward, had westerly winds, which carried her to the eastward of Cape de Verde Islands ; but it is preferable to pass to the westward of all these islands in August, September, October, and November more particularly: butmanynavigators, in January, February, and March, prefer the passage to the eastward of the Cape de \'erde Islands. Captain Heathorn, of the ship Claudine, homeward-bound from India, twice, in September, passed to tlie north- ward, inside of the Cape de Verde Islands, with steady southerly winds, which changed into the N.E. trade wind, when to the northward of these islands. Hence it appears, that in part of Augnst and September, southerly winds sometimes prevail between the coast of Africa and the Cape de Verde Islands ; and in the same locality, northerly winds may usually be expected in December, January, and part of February. If a ship be bound to Tenerife, or intend to pass between the Canaries, or is laid oft" to the S.S. E. after passing Madeira, care is requisite to avoid the Salvages, which must not be approached in the night on account of the reefs and straggling rocks extending from the Fitons, the south-westernmost of these islands. THE SALVAGE.S are in two distinct groups, distant from each other about 8 miles in a N.E. and S.W. direction, with a safe passage between them. The north-eastern group is formed of the Great Salvage with its surrounding rocks. It is high and rocky, and may be seen at the distance of 8 or 9 leagues. The hill near the western point of the island is in lat. 30° 7' 51" N., and Ion. 15° 51' -20", according to the survey of H. M. S. Leven in 1819. The south-western group consists of two islands, called the great and little Piton, surrounded by rocks and reefs. The little Piton is about 1^ miles to the westward of the Great Piton, and has a reef projecting beyond to the westward half a league. THE CANARY ISLANDS are eleven in number (four of them small), extending from lat. 27° 40' to 29° 20' N., and from Ion. 13° 35' to 18° 6' W.* They are mostly high, with steep rocky shores, rendering the landing often impracticable, and they are all destitute of safe harbours for large ships. The channel between these Islands and the African Coast is about 20 leagues wide, and clear of danger. The channels among the Canary Islands are clear of dangers, except a doubtful sunken rock, in lat. 27° 52' N., in the channel between Canary and Tenerife, about 7 leagues from the latter, and 5 leagues West from the former; which many navigators think has no existence. Several of the outward-bound ships pass between' Palma and Gomera, when laid off" to the eastward by westerly winds, or otherwise. Mean varia- tion by Capt. Vidal 20^° W. PALMA, the north-westernmost of these Islands, 8 leagues long and 5 leagues broad, is frequently seen by the outward-bound East-India ships: being high, with a bold coast, some navigators approach it with great confidence; but several ships have * The Surrey of these islands was commenced by Lieut. Arlett, R. N., in 1834-35, and carried forward by Capt. A. T. E. Vidal, R. N., in 1837-38. The positions here given are from this Survey. CANARIES. 11 been nearly lost on it in dark nights, the lights on the impending mountains first showing their situation : and even in the day it is sometimes completely obscured by fog clouds. The North point is in lat. 28° 51' N., Ion. 17° 55' VV. ; the West point in lat. 28° 46' N., Ion. 18° 0' W. ; and the South point in lat. 28° 27' N., Ion. 17° 50' W. This island is said to be more subject to westerly winds and rains than any of the others. TENERIFE is the largest and, from its magnificent Peak, the most remarkable of Tene.ife. It is the Canary Islands. It is triangular in shape — its length from N.E. to S.VV. is 47 miles, and its greatest breadth from N.W. to S.E. 28 miles. Captain Vidal,of H.M.S. Etna, who surveyed the Canaries in 1838, and who ascended the Peak, makes its latitude 28° 17' N., and longitude 16° 39' W. Its elevation above the sea is about 12,300 feet. North extreme, lat. 28° 37' N., Ion. 16° 9' W. South Point, lat. 28° 0' N., Ion. 16° 41' W. West Point, lat. 28° 21' N., Ion. 16° 56' W. Santa Cruz, on the S.E. side and near the N.E. end of Tenerife, is the chief town samacruz. of the Canary Islands. It is the port generally used by ships which stop at these Islands to procure refreshments. The Road, though indifferent, is one of the best in the Canaries. Ships going in should not bring any part of the town to the northward of West, or they may be becalmed by the high land under the Peak, and drifted on the rocky shore, where no bottom is found close to it with 200 fathoms line. Merchant ships and small vessels anchor to the north-eastward of the pier, off the town, in 18 and Anchorage. 20 fathoms, distant from the shore | a mile. Ships of war anchor off the northernmost fort, about j a mile distant from it, with their outer anchor in 36 fathoms, and the inner one in 15 or 18 fathoms. The Hindostan, in October 1792, at anchor in 28 fathoms dark mud, had the southernmost steeple West, the northernmost fort North, and the easternmost point E. ^ N. H. M. S. Satellite touched here, in 1827, and got no bottom at 105 fathoms, when she had the marks on formerly recommended for anchor- ing ; she steered into the West side of the bay, within three cables' lengths of the shore, and about an equal distance from the North Fort, then anchored in 38 fathoms soft ground on the edge of the bank ; and it was thought a better anchorage would be found with the southern steeple W. f N. and the northernmost fort North. The bottom being foul in many parts of the road, it is customary to buoy the cables from the ground. This road is exposed to easterly winds, but these seldom blow hard, although it has sometimes happened that ships have been driven from their anchors on shore. Santa Cruz is an excellent place for procuring a supply of cheap wines, which are of a Keireshmcms. weak quality. Vegetables are plentiful, also the fruits common in Europe, and good water is easily procured when the surf is not great on the beach. The Mole Head, Santa Cruz, is in lat. 28° 28' 13" N., and longitude 16° 14' 35" W. Oratava, situated on the N.W. side of the island, has a very insecure Road, where Oratava. ships stop sometimes to take in wine: the anchorage is in 50 fathoms, about 1^ miles off shore, with the Peak bearing S.W., and a pilot should be kept on board. Strag- gling rocks project two or three ships' lengths from the shore, on which the sea breaks furiously; this anchorage is very dangerous in the winter months, from September to May.— Lat. of the landing-place 28° 25' N., Ion. 16° 33' W. CANARIA or GRAND CANARY, extending from lat. 27° 45' to 28° 13' N. ; and 12 leagues S.E. of Tenerife, is nearly round, being about 11 or 12 leagues in extent; it is the best watered, and most fertile of the islands. Palmas, the chief town, c 2 Canariu or Grand Canary. 12 CANARIES. Gomera. is on the N.E. side of the island ; its Road is sheltered from the N.E. by a point of the land stretching out in a peninsula, and having some rocks adjoining, — Lat. of Mole Head, by Lieut. Arlett, R.N., 28" 7' N., Ion. 15° 25' VV. GOMERA, about 5 leagues to the S.W. from the coast of Tenerife, is 6 leagues long, and its medium breadth 3 leagues. St. Sebastian, the chief place, is in a bay on the East side, sheltered to the northward by a projecting point. North Point, lat. 28" 13' N., Ion. 17° 16' W. East Point (San Christoval), which is near Port San Sebastian, lat. 28° 6' N., Ion. 17° 6' W. HIERRO or FERRO,* the south-westernmost of the Canary Islands, distant 10 or 11 leagues to the S.W. of Gomera, is 6 leagues long and 3 leagues broad. Puerto del Hierro, on its East side, is in lat. 27° 46' N., Ion. 17° 54' W. Fuerteventura. FUERTEVENTURA is about 20 leagues long, and from 2 to 5 leagues broad, the S.W. point being in lat. 28° 3' N., Ion. 14° 31' W., and the North point in lat. 28° 45' N., and Ion. 13° 54' VV. Hierro or Ferro. Lanzarote. Harbours. Puerto de Ca- vallos. LANZAROTE, or Lancerota, about 6 leagues long and 4 leagues broad, lies to the N.E. of Fuerteventura, being separated from it by the Bocayno channel, in which is the Island Lobos, 2 leagues long and ^ a league broad, dividing the channel into two pas- sages. That between Lobos and Fuerteventura is 2 miles wide, with 5 fathoms water and good anchorage. The channel next Lanzarote is 4 miles wide, with 10 fathoms water. Oft" the north end of Lobos there is a large reef. The East Rock oft' the North end of Lanzarote is in lat. 29° 16' N., Ion. 13° 20' W. On the S.E. side of Lanzarote are two ports within reefs, called Puerto de Naos and Puerto de Cavallos ; the former is the northern one, sheltered from N.E, by the reefs, and here vessels may refit. It has two entrances between the reefs, with only 14 feet at high water in the northern, and 17 feet in the southern entrance; the depth within is 27 to 10 feet; rise of tide 10 feet. Puerto de Cavallos, 1 mile South of the former, has only 12 feet in the channel; and within, 17 feet.— Fort St. Gabriel at Arrecife, lat. 28° 57' N., Ion. 13° 23' W. Graciosa. GRACIOSA, SANTA CLARA, and ALEGRANZA, are three small islands oft' andAU'grMza. the North point of Lanzarote ; they are uninhabited and destitute of fresh water. The channel between Graciosa and Lanzarote forms the harbour of El Rio, in which the depth is 6 or 7 fathoms. The North point of Graciosa is in lat. 29° 17' N., and Ion. 13° 31' W. The centre peak of Santa Clara is in lat. 29° 18' N., and Ion. 13° 32' W. Alegranza North Point, lat. 29° 25' N., Ion. 13° 31' W. Channel within Some outward-bound ships for India, or St. Helena, prefer the channel between VerSTsiands. Cape de Verde and the Cape de Verde Islands ; keeping in longitude between 19° and 20° W. in passing the islands, to avoid some doubtjul dangers placed to the eastward of * This island was adopted by most of the European nations in the 17th and 18th centuries as the First Meridian, and is still used as such in many of the Swedish, Norwegian, and Russian Maps. Geographers, even of the same country, do not, however, appear to have been unanimous in their assumed Longitude of Ferro, but the English generally reckoned it 17° 40' or 18° W. of London, and the French 20° or '20° 20' W. of Paris! In the Swedish Charts of the late Admiral Klint, it is assumed 20° 30' W. of Paris. CAPE DE VERDES. 13 them, which seem to have no existence: other ships keep nearer to the continent, where the channel is clear, with soundings near the land. Were it not for great liaze contigu- ous to the coast, occasioned by the dust and dry vapour, driven to seaward by the N.E. winds from the hot sandy desert, the passage within a moderate distance of the main would be preferable to that outside the Cape de Verde Islands, when the sun is far to the southward ; for steady northerly winds then prevail near the continent, and the route fs shorter than that to the westward. But the obscure atmosphere renders the inner passage unpleasant when observations are not regularly obtained, particularly if near the coast ; for a dangerous reef of rocks, part of them above water, projects from cape de Verde Cape de Verde about a league to the westward. Capt. Bathie, in the Evander, ^^"''^• in 1826, was set by the current into the deep bay on the North side of the Cape, and had no soundings with 100 fathoms line, about 3 miles oft" shore ; the Cape bearing W.S.W. about 5 leagues distant; nor were any soundings got afterwards in passing within a few miles of the above-mentioned reef. THE CAFE DE VERDE ISLANDS, consisting often principal, and some small capedeVerde Isles, extend from lat. 14° 43' to 17° 13' N., and from Ion. 22° 28' to 25° 27' W. ; they i^'""^'- are mostly high, and some of them have sheltered bays, with tolerable anchorage. ST. ANTONIO, the north-westernmost of the Cape de Verde Islands, is often st. Antonio. seen by ships passing to the westward of them : prior to the use of chronometers and lunar observations, it was desirable to see this island, or Palma, or Madeira, in order to correct the reckoning; which is not requisite, if a ship have good chronometers; nevertheless, St. Antonio may be passed in sight, without fear of delay by calms or light winds, if not approached too close. By admeasurement, I made the summit of St. Antonio 7,400* feet above the surface of the sea, it may therefore be seen near 30 Height. leagues from a ship's deck in clear weather, which is seldom the case, hazy or cloudy weather mostly prevailing about these islands. Ponta de Sol, the North Point, which may always be known by several white houses on it, projects in a low sand, with a reef extending about ^ a mile farther into the sea, and i^ miles off" the point, the Leven got no ground at 130 fathoms. From hence to the West end of the island, the coast should not be approached within 2 miles, for fear of calms. Between the North and N.E. points, a vessel should not come within 5 miles of the land, as she may have light winds, and be set on the island by the swell. By the survey of H.M.S. Leven, the North Point of the island is in lat. 17° 12' N., Ion. Position. 25° 6' W. ; South Point, in lat. 16° 54' N., Ion. 25° 18' W. ; East Point, 17° 5' N., Ion. 25° 0' W. ; West Point, 17° 3' N., Ion. 25° 23' W.f On the west side of the island there is a small Bight, called Tarrafal Bay, where larrafai Bay. excellent fresh water may be got, and anchorage in from 35 to 40 fathoms, about ^ mile off" the sandy beach at that part of the bay, where H.M.S. Leven remained some time in the summer of 1820 ; there was very little surf, the anchorage being protected from the N.E. trade wind by the mountainous land ; and this sometimes produced a light sea breeze or eddy wind in the heat of the day. This bay is known by a small green plantation, and a black sandy beach under a * Captain Foster made it only a few feet in excess of the above. t The Russian circumnavigator, Captain, novsr Admiral Krusenstern, made the S. \V. point in Ion. 25° 24' W. Captain Lisiansky made it in Ion. 25° 23' W. ; I made the summit of the island, by noon observation and chro- nometers, in lat. 17° 2' N., Ion. 25° 25' W. Capt. Foster, in H. iM. S. Chanticleer, in 1828, made the beach near the West Point in lat. 17° 1' 4" N., Ion. 25° 15' 5" W. 14 CAPE DE VERDES. clifl'. The sqtiare sails should be furled, and all the boats made ready to tow a ship in when she is becalmed under the high land, and the jolly boat should be pre- viously sent in and anchored in 30 fathoms as a guide, opposite to a red mark in the cliff. AiTchorage. Tiic best auchorage is in 39 to 35 fathoms, about -^ of a mile offshore, soft bottom, where a ship may lie very smooth under the mountain, with its altitude about 25° ; northern extreme of the land bearing N. 11° W., southern extreme S. 25° W., red mark on the cliff S. 30° E. This bay is open from N. by W. to S.W. by S. Capt. Vidal made the Tent erected for observations on shore, in lat. 16° 57' 10" N., Ion. 25° 24' 48" W.* Variation 10° VV. (1820.) * Lieut. Ilaper, R.N., adopts 25° 21' 40" W. as the longitude of Tarrafal Bay, and 25° 2.3' W. for that of the West point. Lieut. Raper has recently devoted his attention to the discussion of the longitudes of the principal maritime points of the globe, and from the judgment and ability which he has displayed in the inquiry, every confidence may be justly given to his decisions which a necessarily imperfect data will warrant. He has considered separately the absolute position of each place as afforded by astronomical observation, and the relative position as connected by chronometer with other points. The places are arranged in the order in which they are deduced from each other, and the evidence under each is disposed chronologically, by which arrangement the connection between them is clearly exhibited ; so that whenever it may be found necessary to apply a correction of any kind to one or more places, the corresponding effect upon all positions connected with them may be immediately traced. The entire discussion of this subject will be found in the Nos. of the Nautical Magazine for 1839 and 1840, in a series of papers, which are well worthy the attention of all who are interested in the improvement of hy- drography. We here introduce a few brief remarks from them. After giving an abstract of the principal voyages and surveys by which hydrography has been chiefly advanced, and considering the comparative value of the various methods employed in determining the longi- tude, Lieut. Raper notices the confusion which arises from navigators acting too independently of each other, in giving new determinations to points fixed by their predecessors. By this unsystematic mode of proceeding, he observes, " Many principal stations, together with the numerous points depending on them, are in per- petual change. Nor is this all, for as navigators do not agree in referring the same places to the same principal station, the determinations of the same place by different navigators cannot be directly compared." To remedy these evils, he proposes to select certain stations as fundamental points, calling their meridians Secondary Meridians. The longitudes of these points would be assumed as given, and each navigator should be instructed to refer all his positions to them, directly or indirectly, as opportunity offered. When a point is once agreed upon for a secondary meridian, any other point well determined from it will equally serve for extending the connection to more distant places. " Thus, Capt. Horsburgh having adopted the Grand Ladrone as the principal, or as we should call it, the secondary meridian of the China Sea, connected with it Pulo Aor, about 1,300 miles distant, and 9° 10' 20" W. as given by 20 chronometers agreeing within 2' of each other ; whence Pulo Aor has itself become a position of nearlv equal value with the Grand Ladrone." In this way the islands of the Eastern Sea would by degrees be connected with one another, and agreement would be introduced among their relative positions, which never could result but by accident from chronome- tric measures taken sometimes from places connected with others, and sometimes from places independently fixed. " The absolute longitudes of these points would be of secondary importance, since consistency among the several places is of far more consequence than their absolute positions. The longitudes would be adjusted in the course of time, but no alterations should be suffered until unequivocal proofs had been accumulated of the necessity of applying corrections." The number of secondary meridians would of course be indefinite. The following are some of the places submitted by Lieut. Raper as the chief points to which in general all other places in the South Atlantic and Eastern Seas should ultimately be referred, and which are at such distances from each other as to require that they should themselves finally depend on astronomical observation : — Ptio DE Janeiro, Fort Villegagnan, for the East Coast of S. America. Cape of Good Hope, Observatory, ,, South Coasts of Africa. Mauritius, Cooper's I. Port Louis, ,, Indian Ocean. Bombay, Observatory, „ W. Coast of India, Arabia, and Red Sea. Madras, Observatory, ,, E. Coast of India and Bay of Bengal. Batavia, Observatory, ,, Java and adjacent Islands. Canton, Factories, ,, China Sea and Coasts. Paramatta, Observatory, ,, Australia. I CAPE DE VERDES. 15 The channel between St. Antonio and St. Vincent is safe: the Lord Eldon passed ciiannci ik- throiigh it in July 1802, and thought it nearly 5 leagues broad. In passing through, ["nTo'ami sfi"" you may be guided by your eye to keep clear of the light winds occasioned by either vincom. island. ST. VINCENT, 7 miles S.E. of St. Antonio, is about 12 miles long from East to West, st. vincm. and 7 broad, having two chains of mountains running parallel to its South and N.E. sides, with a valley in the centre, at the N.W. opening of which is the bay of Porto Grande — the best anchorage in the Cape de Verdes. Here is security from the sea, with a fresh breeze generally blowing, and as much wood may be cut in a short time as can be stowed away, and a ship may be refitted with safety. Tiie harbour is open to the westward ; but St. Antonio, being only .9 miles distant, alwaj's shelters it from the wind in that direction. Water may be got from the well, sufficient for daily use, and when refitted, a ship may run down in 5 or 6 hours to Tarrafal Bay, in St. Antonio, and there complete her water. A few lean cattle may also be procured.* St. Vincent is said to have anchorage all round. The Devonshire, on her passage to India, in 1766, found anchorage in a bay on the S.W. side of the island, about 2^ or .3 miles off shore, in 22 fathoms water, with a bottom of sand and bits of coral. She estimated her distance from each extreme of the land at about 4 miles. One well was discovered, and another dug near it at the head of this bay, where she filled up her water during a stay of several days. The North Point of St. Vincent is in lat. 16° 54' N., Ion. 24° 59' W. South Point in lat. 16° 47' N., Ion. 25° 2' W, East Point, 16° 50' N., 24° 55' W. West Point, 16° 50' N., 25° 8' W. Porto Grande Custom House, 16° 53' N., 25° 0' W. Bird Island, 16° 55' N., 25° 2' W. ST. LUCEA, about 5 miles E.S.E. from St. Vincent, is about 6 miles long st. Luca. from N.W. to S.E., of an irregular shape, hilly, and occasionally inhabited by fisher- men. Its South shore, which runs in an East and West direction, is fronted by a bank, extending \ a mile from the shore, on the edge of which are 2, 3, and 4 fathoms. It then suddenly deepens to 8, 9, and 10 fathoms, and the soundings slightly increasing in depth, are carried across to Branco Island. There is a good landing place near the middle of the South shore of Lucea, and there is a well of fresh water near a ruined village on its S.W. side, W.S.W. from the little islet of Leon. In the Channel, South of Lucea, the flood runs to the westward, and the ebb to the Tides, eastward, about 2 miles an hour at spring tides, but the wind has great influence on them. On full or change of moon, it is high water about one o'clock. In this channel Lieut, Raper's 4th paper, " On the propriety of adopting a uniform method of placing on record Chronome- tric determinations " (N. Mag. June 1839), is especially worthy the attention of navigators. We will here quote the particulars which he recommends as necessary to he inserted in a register of chronometric measurements. " 1. The exact spot of observation. 2. Whether the observations were made by the sea horizon or by the artificial horizon on shore. 3. The number of days elapsed between the observation for time, or the number of days employed in the passage between any tsvo places — or both, if these periods differ much. 4. The num- ber of Chronometers — the maker's name and number of each being noted. 5. The result shewn by each Chronometer, and, to facilitate the estimation of the general dependence which may be placed on each deter- mination, the difference of the extreme results." * The ship Lonach, commanded by Lieut. Cotgrave, R. N., anchored and remained here from the "JSth of December, 1829, to January 1st, 1830, and could not procure any refreshments, excepting a few small bullocks, brought from the mountains by the natives. Neither fruit, vegetables, nor any good water could be obtained ; a small quantity of the latter was got by digging, and also from a little well ; it was not drinkable, being muddy, and soon became putrid, but it was given to the live stock. 16 CAPE DE VERDES. Branco. Raza. St. Nicolas. Tides. Sal. border not too close to the eastward of St. Lucea, the ground being- uneven. There are soundings 2 or 3 miles to windward of St. Lucea, with discoloured water. Between St. Lucea and St. Vincent there is a channel, through which the Leven passed ; and here, when blowing fresh, with the tide setting to windward, it has the appear- ance of shoal water, but siie did not find less than 6 fathoms in working through, with 15 fathoms in mid-channel. The North Point of St. Lucea is in lat. 10° 49' N., Ion. 24° 48' W. South Point in lat. 16° 43' N., Ion. 24° 48' W. East Point in 16° 45' N., 24° 43' W. West Point in 16° 47' N., 24° 50' W. BRANCO, in lat. 16° 40' N., Ion. 24° 42' W., is about two miles long and three- quarters of a mile broad, inaccessible excepting in fine weather. A low sandy point projects a short way from its S.E. end, with a reef off it, which is visible. The Leven beat through the passage between this island and Raza, and had irregular soundings. She also went through between Raza and St. Nicholas, which is a good i)assage, but the tides and currents between these islands are sometimes strong and irregular, greatly influenced by the winds, rendering a good look out necessary when near them. RAZA, in lat. 16° 38' N., Ion. 24° 38' W., is a small uninhabited island, about 1^ miles in diameter, at times inaccessible : there is no fresh water on it, and the bottom near it is rocky. The landing place is near its N.W. point. ST. NICOLAS, about 5 leagues S.E. of St. Lucea, may be seen 16 leagues in clear weather : it is the most pleasant of these islands, and the residence of the bishop ; on the South side, there are several indifferent anchoring places. Grand, or St. George Bay, where the trade of the island is carried on, is on the western side of that large bight formed by the East and South points of the island. It has anchorage in 7 fathoms clear ground, close to the shore ; but out in 9 and 10 fathoms the ground is rocky. Here refreshments may be procured, but there is no watering place for a ship. This Bay may be known by the White Fort, which stands on a hill, and which is seen immediately after rounding the South point of the island from the westward ; but ships requiring refreshments generally stand off and on, the anchorage being very close in. The chief town is about 4 miles inland from the landing place, and there the bishop and governor reside. Between the South and West points of tlie island is Tarrafal Bay, near the S.E. shore of which is the custom-house. Soundings extend from this bay off the shore, about a mile towards the West point, which is low and rocky. A ship might anchor here in the calm to repair damage, about three miles to the southward of the West point, the breeze not reaching so far down, excepting in the rainy season, when it would be dangerous, as the wind then comes in from the southward. Close in shore here, if blowing strong outside, the tide will run 9 or 10 hours to the northward. H.M.S. Leven anchored twice here, in 18 fathoms, the West Point bearing N. 16° E. offshore 1 mile. Tlie North Point of St. Nicolas is in lat. 16° 41' N., Ion. 24° 21' W. South Point in lat. 16° 28' N., Ion. 24° 20' W. East Point in 16° 34' N., 24° 3' W. West Point in 16° 38' N., 24° 28' W. SAL is high and bold, with two peaks on it, and may be seen 14 or 15 leagues in clear weather. The easternmost peak is highest, and the land between them being low, they appear like two separate islands when first seen. In passing along either side of the island to the southward, a ship should not CAPE DE VERDES. 17 approach too close to the South Point, which is low, extending out several miles in a sandy spit, not visible in the night, nor in hazy weather. The North Point is in lat. 16° 51' N., Ion. 22° 56' W. The South Point in lat. 10° 34' N., Ion. 22° 57' VV. East Point, 10° 40' N., 22° 57' W. West Point, 10° 48' N., 23° 4' W., by the survey of the Leven.* Mordeira Bay, on the west side of the island, affords tolerable anchorage, excepting Mordeira Bay. in the rainy season, when the wind comes from the southward at times ; but a chain should be used, the bottom being foul ground : neither wood nor water is to be got here for shipping. BONA VISTA is high, very uneven, composed of alternate hills and vallies, and Bonavista. in some places low points project into the sea ; the eastern extreme in particular, is a low projecting point, not discernible until near it. From this low point, a reef of rocks with foul ground extends a mile or more to seaward; and also to the northward of this point, about two miles from the shore, are several rocky islets, terminating off the N.E. point in an extensive reef, on which the outward-bound East-India ship, Hartwell, was wrecked, with loss of cargo and most of the treasure. The Resolution, Captain Cook, in her voyage to the South-Sea, was nearly sharing the same fate in the night, owing to a southerly current ; and several other ships have suffered on this reef. I In thick or misty weather, great care is necessary when approaching this island, as the currents are sometimes strong and irregular; and the fine sand or dust blown off from the desert of Africa, makes the atmosphere frequently so thick, that the land cannot be seen before you are in the surf. The N.W. Point of the island is in lat. 16° 13' N., Ion. 22° 59' W. The South Point in lat. 15° 57' N., Ion. 22° 52' W. N.E. Point in 10° 11' N., 22° 47' W. West Point in 16° 2' N., 23° 2' W. There is anchorage here in English Road, Portuguese Road, and off the Coral English Road. Reef; but there is no town except at English harbour, where you may anchor inside or outside of the reef off the small island, but it is often dangerous to remain at anchor, more particularly about the full and change of the moon, when heavy rollers generally prevail about the island. LETON ROCK, OR REEF, is very dangerous, and much in the way of ships L«on Rock. passing to the westward of Bonavista. There seems to be another reef considerably to the northward of the Leton Rock, and much nearer to Bonavista. These dangers render the channel to the westward of Bonavista unsafe in thick weather, or in the night; for it is thought the sea does not break on these reefs with smooth water, but when there is much swell, breakers roll over them. * To the N.N.E. of the island of Sal, in lat. 18° 40' N., Ion. 21° 28' W„ a shoal is said to have been lately seen by a French ship, but its existence seems very doubtful. t Captain Vidal, in 1838, when returning from his survey of the coast of Africa, with the Etna and Raven under his command, took an opportunity of searching for the Bonetta, Madeline, and other shoals, said to exist to the Eastward of Bonavista. He states that the sea between the Meridian of 19° W. and the Island of Bona- vista was traversed with attention, and that a vigilant look-out was kept at the mast heads of both vessels. The deep sea lead was kept going night and day, and when near the positions assigned to the dangers, the hand lead also ; but that no bank of soundings could be found, or any appearance of breakers. The spots recorded by the masters of the Madeline and Wave, (lat. 16° 19' N., Ion. 22° 19' W., and Bonavista bearing W. by S. 7 leagues) were frequently passed in full daylight. Captain Vidal found the current generally setting to the S. W. from 10 to 15 miles a day — many ripplings indicating its direction, and the sea being much discoloured, as if in soundings. To these currents, he thinks, may be safely attributed the loss of the Hartwell ; it is also his opinion that the vessels reported to have been wrecked on the Bonetta and Madeline rocks were, in fact, lost on the dangerous shoals which bound the N.E. end of Bonavista. D 18 CAPE DE VERDES. The London, in June 1795, saw the northernmost breakers: after passing to the westward ofSal, she saw Bonavista, bearing S.E. by S. 7 or 8 leagues; from hence, she steered by compass S. ^ VV. 6^ miles, S. by E. 5i miles, S. by W. 6| miles, being then 4 p.iM., saw from the deck breakers, bearing from S.S.E. ^ E. to S.E., distant (J or 7 miles; steered S. by W. J W. 6^ miles to 5 p.m., the breakers then distant 3^ miles to the eastward. The Diana, in October 1805, passed near the Leton or Southern Reef. At 1 p.m., October -list, Bonavista E.S.E. 7 or 8 leagues, steered S. by W. G miles, S. by W. ^ VV. 12 miles, being 4 p.m.; breakers first seen at 3 p.m. now bore E.S.E. 4 miles. By the relative positions of these ships from Bonavista, and their courses steered till near the breakers, the danger seen in the Diana appears to be about 4 leagues to the southward, and considerably to the westward of that seen in the London, if these were both real dangers. The danger of running in the vicinity of these reefs in the night has been fatally experienced by the loss of the Lady Burgess, one of the outward-bound India fleet, which ship struck among the breakers on Leton Rock, at 2 a.m. 19th of April 1806. The Alexander, Sovereign, Lord Nelson, and other ships of the fleet, narrowly escaped after the breakers were perceived close aboard. The Lord Melville struck three times, and slipped off the rocks into 25 fathoms, at the time the Lady Burgess was observed standing directly among the breakers. It appears from the journals of the fleet, com- bined with information received from several of the commanders, that the Leton Rock, or Reef, is composed of coral, no part of it above water. Captain Swinton, late com- mander of the Lady Burgess, thinks that the extent on which a ship would strike is not above a cable's length, and that there are no breakers on it in tine weather. To the northward it is steep to, but this danger seems to be the northern limit of a bank of coral soundings, which extends a great way to the southward, and a considerable distance to the eastward and westward. The Asia had 52 fathoms coral at daylight, when the breakers and wreck of the Lady Burgess bore E. by N., distant about 6 miles, and other ships had soundings from 25 to 50 fathoms to the West and S.VV. of the reef at 2 to 5 or 6 miles distance. Directly after striking, the Lord Melville had 25 fathoms, with her head to the eastward, and shortly after 30 fathoms; she hove tu, with her head easterly, until daylight, and had from 30 to 40 fathoms, all coral soundings. Some of the other ships carried soundings on Leton Bank for 10 or 12 leagues to the southward of the rock, generally coral, sometimes intermixed with sand and shells, and never had less than 20 fathoms. By means of the observations and chronometers of the fleet, Leton Rock is in lat. 1.5° 49' N., Ion. 23° 14' W., and the survey of H.M.S. Leven placed it in lat. 15° 47|-' N., Ion. 23° 10' W. Captain Cook, bound to the South Sea on discovery, had soundings 60 fathoms, the Island of Mayo bearing S.S.E. 5 leagues; these soundings were probably on the southern extremity of Leton Bank, as he had previously seen the breakers on the rock, after passing Bonavista on the East and S.E. sides. If an outward-bound ship intend to stop at Porto Praya, in the island St. Jago, which is frequented by ships in want of water, it will be prudent to steer for Sal, or Bonavista, and to avoid the danger to the westward and south-westward of the latter, she may pass on the East side of these islands ; or on the West side of Sal, if the wind be far from the northward, then well to the westward of the shoals, and after- wards tor Isle Mayo, passing also to the westward of it, she will easily reach Porto Praya Road. If the wind incline from eastward, to pass to windward of them will be most convenient for reaching Porto Praya with speed. In running for these islands CAPE DE VERDES. 19 it is proper to look out in time, the current generally setting to the southward amongst them, sometimes strong. MAYO or MAY ISLAND, bearing from Bonavista nearly S.S.W., distant 14 Mayo hia„d. or 15 leagues, has a reef of rocks projecting N.E. from the North end about 2 miles; and this being a low point, makes it unsafe to approach in the night. There are 45 fathoms coral 5 or 6 miles to the northward of this reef, and the soundings extend to Leton Rock, and from thence to the coral reef off Bonavista. This island may be seen 10 or 11 leagues, being high at the centre, uneven, making in hills, and has anchorage under the S.VV. end in 7 or 8 fathoms, in a kind of bay, called English English Uoad. Road. The shore to the eastward, and abreast the town of Mayo, is steep, bluff, and rocky ; but to the westward, a low white sandy beach extends to a rounding point, from which a spit of sand and coral stretches out a few cables' lengths, and at a small distance from which, there is no ground at 40 and 50 fathoms. This spit may be rounded in 17 to 15 fathoms, and a ship should not anchor in the Road farther out than 16 or 17 fathoms, as these depths are on the edge of the bank. A vessel may anchor at the South side of the island, and in several other places, but there is no town except at English Road. The cattle are better here than at any of the other Supplies. Cape de Verde Islands, perhaps by their access to the Salt Pans. Salt is produced in great abundance, and a number of American ships load with it annually. No wood is to be obtained for shippino;. The North point is in lat. 15° 19' N., Ion. 23° 14' W. South point in lat. 15° 6'^N., Ion. 23° 9' W. East point in 15° 14' N., 23° 8' W. West point in 15° 10' N., 23° 16' W. Mayo should be passed on its eastern side if the wind be from the eastward, but with the wind inclining from northward or N. N. W., it should be passed on its western side. ST. JAGO, or YAGO, the chief of the Cape de Verde Islands, is about 32 miles long st. jago. and 15 broad ; it is mountainous and generally sterile, but having some fertile spots which produce fruit and vegetables. Porto Praya, the most important harbour in Cape de Verdes, is situated near its South extreme. The S. E. point of St. Jago appears low, when seen either from the northward or Approach to southward, and projects considerably into the sea ; and to the S. W., about 7 miles from ^°'^° ^"''"' it, is Porto Praya, the principal port in the Island St. Jago. Between the East point of Praya Bay and the S. E. point of the island, about 3 or 4 miles to the westward of the latter, St. Francis Bay, resembling that of Porto Praya, is situated; having a brown sandy beach, with several date trees and houses at the bottom of it. Some vessels have been in danger by mistaking this bay of St. Francis for that of Porto Praya, tiie East points of both being fronted by sunken rocks. Porto Praya, however, is between 4 and 5 miles farther to the S. W. ; the intermediate coast being mostly perpendicular, and approachable within \^ miles in 10 fathoms water. The Fort, situated on a small cliff in Porto Praya, is a mark by which that bay may be distinguished from St. Francis ; another mark is, that the North or East point of the latter is generally surrounded with breakers, whereas the East point of Praya Bay is high, steep, and free from danger ; and its West point has a battery of earth or brown stones on it, by which the bay is often first distinguished, and the sea always breaks off this West point to some distance. In running for this place witli a brisk N. E. wind, a ship should have a reef or two in her topsails when she approaches the East point of the bay, and this point may be passed within the distance of a cable's length, u 2 20 CAPE DE VERDES. in 8 or 9 fathoms ; the same distance from the eastern side of the bay, in 7 or 8 fathoms, is proper in sailing to tlie anchorage. The eastern shore of the bay is high, and all the land seems parched and barren. I'orto Praja. Porto Praya is a fine bay ; the two points which form it, bear from each other about W. ^ N. and E. ^ S. 1^ or If miles distant, and it is of equal depth. After passing the east point, the fort at the bottom of the bay soon opens ; to the westward of which, in a valley, are several date trees, and a small house. A small black island, flat at the top, called the Isle of Quails, is situated in the West side of the bay, having a rocky projection from its South end about half a cable's length ; there is also a rocky ledge oft" the North end, where the water is in general shoal, for 3 fathoms is the greatest depth between this isle and the fort. Between it and the shore the channel is only navigable for boats. From the West point of the bay some rocks extend to seaward, and it requires care to avoid them in sailing from the anchorage in the night. Anchorage. The bcst anchorage is, to bring the fort N. W. i W. about 1 mile, the East part of Isle of Quails W. by S. or W. by S. |^ S. 1| miles, in 7 or 8 fathoms; but nearer to the N. E. side of the bay is more convenient to weigh from in light winds, or otherwise, to prevent being carried near the point of rocks to leeward by the currents, before a ship has good way through the water. The Earl Talbot, in 7f fathoms, black sand, had the flag-staff on the hill N. W. by N. ; Jubaroon Point, or West extreme of the bay, S. W. by S. ; South extreme of Quail Island W . by S. ^ S. ; and the East point of the bay E. S. E. | S. ; off the landing place 1 mile ; off the N. E. shore 2 cables' lengths. Winds and Thc winds are generally in the N. E. quarter, and frequently the weather is weather. cloudy with squalls ; rain seldom falls, excepting in July, August, and September, but a dry haze mostly prevails about these islands. In December and January the winds keep sometimes far to the eastward, but they veer at times in the same season to the northward.* In July, August, September, and October, strong southerly winds are liable to happen at times, blowing two or three hours, and forcing a heavy swell into the bay, which frequently breaks, rendering the anchorage rather dangerous at this season : therefore ships at this time should anchor well outside of Quail Island, in order to clear the land in getting under weigh, or if obliged to slip and proceed to sea. But these southerly gales do not happen every year. Supplies. Xhe cistern which supplies the ships with water in Porto Praya Bay is at the bottom of the hill upon which the castle is built, about ^ mile from the beach, and in common seasons, if drawn dry in the evening, is full again next morning, but in very dry seasons the supply is scanty. The water is not very good, being more or less brackish. t At such times there is a scarcity of all the necessaries of life, and the wretched natives perish in great numbers by famine. This is usually an indifferent place for a ship to procure refreshments, but sometimes pigs, goats, poultry, oranges, limes, and pine-apples are plentiful at moderate prices, and Spanish dollars or Por- tuguese coins are best to pay for a supply of refreshments. The anchorage in the Bay of Porto Praya is in lat. 14° 55' N., Ion. 2-3° 30' VA^, by mean of many ships' ob- servations and chronometers. Variation ]6° West in 1820. The survey of H. M. S. * When the weather is settled, there are often regular land and sea breezes in the Bay of Porto Praya ; the sea breeze setting in near noon, with a great surf on the shore, and ending at four or five o'clock in the after- noon. The N.E. wind sets in towards evening, and continues during the night. t As there is generally some surf on the beach, boats should lie at their grapnels, and the casks of water be hoisted into them, after being filled at the well or cistern, and rolled down and floated through the surf. His Majesty's ships Polyphemus and Africa, with a fleet of transports, watered at this place in January 1807, and found the water then very good. Capt. Heywood advises large ships to send on shore a pump to place in the well, by which they CAPE DE VERDES. 21 Leveii made Quail Island in lat. 14° 53f' N., Ion. 23° 31:^' W.* North point of the island in lat. 15° 20' N„ Ion. 23° 47' W. S.W. point in lat. 14° 58' JN., Ion. 23° 44' W. East point in 15° 0' N., 23° 26' W. West point in 15° 17' N., 23° 50' W. FOGO, OR ST. PHILIP, about 5 leagues in extreme length and nearly circular, fogo. is very high, forming a volcanic peak, and generally clouded. A ship may anchor off the town of Luz, which is on its West side; but the water is very deep, with a great surf on the beach, and the landing difficult. Fruit may be got in the season, but there is no water for the supply of shipping. There are a few mulatto or negro inhabitants, who raise vegetables, and rear goats and cattle. At the North and N.E. points of the island the currents are strong, influenced by the strength of tlie winds outside: Currents. by approaching these points close, vessels are liable to light winds, under the high land. The North point of the island is in lat. 15° 2' N., Ion. 24° 26' W. South point in lat. 14° 49' N., Ion. 24° 25' W. West point in 14° 54' N., 24° 34' W. Peak in 14° 57' N., 24° 22' VV. BRAVA, 9 miles to the westward of Fogo, is high, about 4 leagues in circuit, urava. and one of the most fruitful of the group. Porto Furno, on the East side, is a good harbour for small vessels, with a narrow entrance, which obliges ships to warp out. Porto Furreo, on the South side, and Porto Fagen Dago, on the West side, are said to afford good shelter for small vessels, where water and refreshments may be procured ; but this island has no safe anchorage for large ships, neither can wood nor water be got for such ships. The north point of the island is in lat. 14° 52' N., Ion. 24° 44' W. South point in lat. 14° 47' N., Ion. 24° 45' W. East point in lat. 14° 51' N., Ion. 24° 43' W. West point in 14° 51'. N., 24' 48' W. There are two islets, with rocks between them, about 5 miles N.N.E. from the North end of Brava. will be sooner watered than if the water were drawn up from it in the common manner with buckets. Some planks carried on shore will be useful to place under the casks in rolling them down, where the ground is stony or uneven, or where it is soft sand, which is often the case. The harbour-master will supply ships with water at the rate of a dollar per butt of 100 to 140 gallons, taking the empty casks from alongside in his boat, and returning them full. * Lieut. Raper adopts 23° 30' 45" W. for the Ion. of Quail Island. 22 A TABLE DENOTING THE EQUATORIAL LIMITS OF THE TRADE WINDS BETWEEN AFRICA AND AMERICA, EXPERIENCED IN EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR. THIS TABLE, formed by a close investigation of the East India Company's ships' journals, will readily be comprehended without any explanatory description ; it may, however, be proper to observe, that the limit of the N.E. trade, marked in the table, is the place where the wind was found steady between North and East ; and the limit of the S.E. trade is the position where the wind was experienced settled be- tween East and S.S.E. The winds which blow between S. by E. and S.S.W. to the northward of the equator, and the same winds which prevail from the equator to several degrees of South latitude near the African coast, are not marked as part of the S.E. trade, but are included in the space of variable winds between the trades. These southerly and S.S.W. winds, adjacent to the S.E. trade, prevail through several degrees of latitude, generally speaking ; but are most settled when the sun is in the northern hemisphere, particularly in June, July, August, and September ; his rays having, in these months, greatly heated the northern regions, draw the south- erly winds far to the northward of the equator. In this season, the progress of out- ward-bound ships to the southward is greatly obstructed between the trades by the southerly winds and N.W. currents, which frequently attend them. Many of the ships mentioned in this table were in company with fleets, it being a period of war great part of the time. The longitude is by chronometers, or lunar ob- servations. EQUATORIAL LIMITS OF ATLANTIC TRADE WINDS. 23 EXTRACTED FROM 238 EAST INDIA COMPANY'S SHIPS' JOURNALS, TO SHEW THE EQUATORIAL LIMITS OF THE ATLANTIC TRADE WINDS. 1794 1795 1799 1802 1803 1792 1792 1792 1793 1793 1793 1800 1801 1803 1792 1792 Outward-Bound Skips. Nancy Swallow Taunton Castle Arniston Royal George ... Rockingham ... Ganges < Lord Macartney , Royal Charlotte , Triton , Woodcot Arniston , Rose , City of London , Europa , Middlesex , Sir Edward Hughes Earl Weycombe ... Duke of Buccleugh General Goddard... Valentine Lost N. E. Trade. Month. Feb. Jan. 21 29 24 24 30 6 26 26 1 3 3 13 25 21 March 14 10 10 1796Georgina , 1797 Sir E.Hughes..., 1798jBombay Castle.., Earl Howe 1802Marquisof Ely . Canton Cirencester 1802 L. J. Dundas .... 1802 David Scott , Marquis Wellesley 1803 Carmarthen Walpole 1804 Windham 1803 Experiment 1804 Sir Edward Hughes David Scott 1792 Melville Castle ... Duke of Montrose 1794 Duke of Buccleugh 1795 Arniston 1797 Rose 1798 Walpole 1890 Lord Nelson 1801 Lord Duncan 1802 Lord Nelson 1803Huddart 10 10 5 7 7 7 10 11 8 5 7 6 9 8 8 4 8 15! 6 29, 6 22 5 Latitude. Longitude. April 11 25 16 12 6 31 1 20 27 11 17 15 28 30 N, 30 30 30 30 30 1 40 30 30 31 7 30 1810 24! 2 25| 2 20 25 2 30 12 4 14' 3 30 20j 4 271 7 March 22 6 30 25' 8 3 30 4 20 2 30 3 6 13 6 5 30 11 30 4 4 8 4 4, 3 36 7 14 18 22 16 15 OW. 21 30 21 30 20 30 16 12 21 21 30 21 23 16 40 21 23 22 30 21 20 21 30 14 30 18 19 30 20 18 22 23 23 24 17 23 21 22 21 40 21 30 18 18 24 21 19 18 20 21 30 21 25 20 16 S.E. Trade began. Month. Latitude. Longitude. Feb. Feb. 17 24 Jan. 31 March 5 Feb. 25 ]7 March 7 8 9 11 10 27 March 5 27 April 3 March 18 19 27 April 12 March 27 May 3 April 25 March 2!' 31 April 4 March 21 25 25 April 10 April 8 7 March 17 April 5 March 24 14 16 April 11 5 16 June 9 May 6 April 15 27 20 May 1 April 20 30 8 4 2 9 9 30 30 2 2 30 11 1 1 1 2 30 7 1 1 2 1 30 2 30 2 4 S. 5 26 2 30 3 40 28 6 2 22 1 1 24 21 20 1 18 20 21 20 2 22 23 22 22 22 22 36 20 3 30 3 30 30 4 30 8 30 N. E 30 30 W E 30 OW, 30 30 30 E, OW. 30 5 30 E, 3 17 22 21 24 25 23 19 9 17 22 21 23 21 13 21 25 22 7 15 20 22 23 25 20 13 SOW OW, 15 20 30 E. OW. 20 Remarks on Winds* &c. between the Trades. /Had S.W. winds near the African Coast Veered to \ South in lat. 8" S. /Had S.W. and S.S.W. winds till in lat. 414" ■''■ they \ veered to S.S.E. gradually. / Had calms and faint aiis to equator, and S.S. Westerly \ winds in South latitude. /S.W. winds from 4i° lat. to 7" S. then veering gra- I dually to S. & S. by E. Southerly and variable winds. Variable. From W to 6° N. had N. W. winds. /Light S.W. wind from leaving Cape Palmas, I2th \ Feb. and afterwards S. by W. & S.S.W. Variable winds mostly at southward. N. Westerly and variable winds. Variable. / Had N. 4 N. Westerly airs to lat. 5° N. ; then S. W. \ 6c S.S.W. light winds to 6° South lat. Southerly and variable. Variable. Variable and Southerly. / Calms St S.W. breezes in N. lat. & S.S. Westerly from X equator to 6^ South. /N.W. & variable wmds to 1° lat. South ; then S.S. \ Westerly to 5° South. Variable. N. Westerly and variable. Northerly. Variable. S. Westerly light, variable, and calms. Variable. Variable. N. Westerly and variable. Variable. / Calms and S.W. winds from 5» N. to 3' S. and S. by X W. near Anna Bona. S.W. and S.S.W. winds. Variable. Variable at Northward. Variable. South and S. Westerly. 24 EQUATORIAL LIMITS OF ATLANTIC TRADE WINDS. 1804 1805 1791 1792 1792 1792 Outward'Boimd Ships. Lord Nelson L. J. Dundas Fame Walpole Charlton Kent Dublin Lascelles Sullivan Rose Busbridge Thetis 1793 Exeter 1796Canton 1797jCeres 1798|Contractor ..., 1799Glatton , [Sir Edward Hughes SirStep.Lushington iLord Hawkesbury 1801 Princess Charlotte 1802 Earl St. Vincent.., Anna , Cuffnel's , Britannia Tellicherry Herculean 1803iWarren Hastings... Earl Howe Lord Castlereagh... Ceylon Preston Warley Alfred Ganges Coutts Abergavenny .... Union Ocean Coutts Bridgewater Essex Bellmont Woodford Young William . Warren Hastings. 1798JTellicherry 1800 Hugh Inglis Rockingham Abergavenny .... Fame Sir W. Bensley . Woodford Lost N.E. Trada April May 1805 179] 1794 1795 1795 1801 1802 1803 1804 1792 1794 Asia Bengal Earl Talbot..., Sir E. Hughes . June July 15 15 22 8 15 5 28 2 4 17 18 30 6 7 5 31 4 4 16 19 23 10 10 28 30 10 30 3 30 25 29 29 29 30 31 30 28 5 30 23 16 23 26 3 15 17 30 1 29 22 13 28 22 15 16 9 23 Latitude. Longitude. 6 5 25 5 28 1 40 3 30 5 20 6 25 N. 10 9 13 4 8 6 3 40 6 7 30 8 7 7 8 30 9 7 11 9 30 7 50 9 9 30 7 7 38 9 8 9 30 8 10 6 30 7 16 13 30 10 30 8 9 30 4 50 8 30 8 13 10 24 25 W. 21 30 21 17 30 20 25 21 22 30 24 22 19 30 21 30 19 30 20 25 30 18 20 30 21 30 18 24 22 21 30 22 22 25 21 30 23 40 23 22 24 23 22 21 23 21 21 40 22 30 21 22 30 19 30 16 23 30 23 23 30 23 50 26 25 25 22 30 25 30 25 21 23 23 40 24 22 S. E. Trade began. Month. Latitude. Longitude. April May June May June May June May June May June May June May June July June July June July June July June July Aug. 20 20 29 14 3 8 29 7 11 25 25 17 S5 23 13 9 27 10 23 9 31 21 18 4 12 14 10 21 6 5 8 5 7 7 6 7 6 21 8 1 4 13 3 11 22 18 10 16 14 12 23 15 7 24 24 20 o 2 30 3 30 6 4 2 30 2 30 2 2 4 30 1 30 5 7 30 1 4 4 30 4 40 1 30 2 30 5 3 30 4 4 N, 25 26 21 21 21 21 Remarks on Winds, &c. between the Trades. ow. 25 30 17 20 26 25 25 20 24 22 30 20 5 22 1 40 3 3 30 5 2 30 2 3 40 3 30 4 3 30 3 40 4 20 3 50 3 40 E. OW. 20 30 14 24 30 20 30 20 20 21 17 30 27 No light winds. Variable. Variable and Southerly. Southerly. Southerly and variable. i ( 24 25 19 30 22 19 20 16 16 30 19 17 20 23 23 20 20 16 20 30 20 23 24 24 28 26 17 21 20 12 20 21 22 30 22 30 20 /Had calms near St. Thomas; and in South lat. S.S. X Westerly and Southerly winds. Variable. Southerly. r southerly. On May 30, was in 3° N. and 52° W. Ion., l stood Westward with Southerly winds. Variable, Variable and Calms. Southerly and variable. Variable. Variable and Southerly. Southerly. Variable. Had N.N.VV. winds to lat. 12i° N. then variable. Calms and Southerly winds. Variable. Variable mostly at Southward. Had no light winds. Variable and S. Westerly. Southerly. f Northerly light winds to g' N . afterward S. Wetterlv 1 and S.S.W. winds. Southerly and variable, / Had light N, Westerly airs and calms, then S. Westerly \ winds. Southerly and variable light airs. Variabla Southerly. S.S. Westerly. EQUATORIAL LIMITS OF ATLANTIC TRADE WINDS. 25 Year. Outward-Bound Ships. 1795 Cirencester.. 1796 True Briton. 1797 Queen. 1798 1799 1800 1801 1802 Osterly , Woodford Earl Spencer.. Minorca , Lord Eldon... July 31 17 5 1 12 28 18 11 Minerva Travers 1803 Essex Princess Mary... 1804|Arniston JLord Eldon 1793 Earl Fitzwilliam. 1802'skelton Castle... 1803 Northampton Ann General Stuart... 1804Monarch 1794Dart , 1796'carnatic I 1796 Queen 1798|Georgina 1799Swallow 180l]Elizabeth 1803;Georgina 1797|Henry Dundas ISOOGeorgina Prince Wm. Henry 1801 Princess Mary... 1804 Ocean 1805 Diana Europe 1792Hindostan Swallow 1796Bellona 1798Cuffnells Sarah Christiana 1803 Lord Duncan 1803 &4 1793Lascelles 1797jSwallow 1803 Cirencester Lady Jane Dundas Tellicherry 1804 Lord Duncan Huddart Waller Brig 1793jThetis , 1800 Sir Edward Hughes 1802 Lord Duncan 1803'Canton 1803Lord St. Vincent... 1804 Earl Howe ' Britannia , Lost N.E. Trade. Month. Latitude. Longitude. 14 17 8 30 9 30 9 16 30 15 11 30 713 913 2913 30 28,14 30 1412 31 8 August 1112 lo'ie 911 813 1614 713 Sept. 26 6 Oct. Nov. 27 6 13 5 5 9 30 15 8 40 10 9 N. 30 30 11 1313 2912 915 2810 30 20 14 16 8 18' 7 912 18] 8 29 8 30 1611 1010 30 2513 March 10 1 40 S. April 27 11 19 18 8 22 28 22 9 28 13 7 12 1 30 1 1 1 10 1 40 1 2 26 OW, 25 30 22 30 25 23 26 26 23 19 30 25 27 27 26 21 25 25 25 25 27 25 21 23 23 18 19 27 23 30 25 23 24 26 22 21 28 22 30 21 27 25 25 40 23 20 2 30 19 19 N.22 S.ll6 [21 N.23 15 21 23 S.22 N.20 S.21 N.'22 i20 S.E. Trade began. Month. Latitude. Longitude. Aug. July Sept. Aug. July Aug. July Aug. Sept. Aug. Sept. Aug. Oct. Sept. Oct. Nov. Oct. Nov. Dec. Nov. Feb. 15 16 20 11 20 23 8 24 15 24 11 13 27 8 14 24 1 31 10 24 6 10 3 2 2 2 2 40 3 3 9 30 N S 30 N. 9 30 2 3 54 4 4 30 2 30 30 11 30 18 8 12 3 242 121 305 204 243 30 4 9 26 15 1 13 194 26 15 March 23 April 7 March 16 April 1 March 27 8 April 6 March 30 May 8 April 15 May 5 April 20 April 14 16 N S. 9 8 ON. 30 30 S, RemarkB on Winds, &c. between the Trades. 22 OW. 8 24 30 25 15 5 E. 24 W. 1 E. 5 22 30 W. 19 22 20 22 22 17 9 E. 25 OW. 23 27 13 13 7 E. 3 7 23 30 W, 19 23 26 24 30 24 19 N.18 30 I. 40 \> 7 0S, 30 30 40 50 20 22 30 29 22 30 21 27 23 30 25 22 1 21 N 22 25 21 22 40 23 19 21 27 30 25 30 21 25 26 20 S.S. V^esterly. Westerly to S. by W. Southerly. S. Westerly. S. Westerly light winds and calms. Crossed equator 2= E. Aug. 26. Variable and Southerly. S.W. winds. Crossed equator in 4Ji^ E. July 30. S.w. and S.S.W. winds continued. S.W. and S.S.W. winds. Crossed the equator. July 25, in 4° E. longitude. S.S.W. and S.W. S. Westerly. S. and Westerly. S. W. and Southerly. S. Westerly on both sides of equator : crossed it Sept. 7, on meridian of Lond. S. Westerly and Southerly. S. Westerly and variable. f S.W. and Southerly. Crossed equator 17th Sept. in X 5° W. longitude. {S. W. and Southerly. Crossed the equator in 3^ E. and saw Anna Bona, 25th. i S. Westerly, saw St. Thomas's Island, Oct. 1st, and I next day the Coast of Africa. S. Westerly and variable. Variable. Southerly and variable. Variable. Southerly and faint airs. Calms and S.S. \^'esterly faint aire. Variable. Southerly and variable. Variable. Wind fresh at E. veered gradually to S. Eastward. Southerly and variable. Easterly and variable. Calms and faint S.S.W. airs near the Coast of Africa. \ and in general. Variable. Northerly and variable. No light winds between the Trades. Light and variable. Light winds one day. Northerly. Variable, 26 EQUATORIAL LIMITS OF ATLANTIC TRADE WINDS. Homeward* Bound Ships. - Loit N.E. Trade S.E. Trade began. Remarlts on Winds. &c. between the Trades. year. Month. Latitude. Longitude. Month. Latitude. Longitude. April VI ay June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. 12 4 13 14 24 4 16 5 23 2 2 11 12 11 7 29 1 29 2 22 10 5 t 14 13 18 2 22 25 14 22 2 12 26 17 4 15 18 23 5 20 7 6 31 2C 2g 25 23 2i U 2( 1^ ' 1 20 N. 30 4 4 30 2 30 2 30 1 3 30 5 1 2 30 1 30 2 30 1 30 5 30 3 40 6 40 S. 2 N. 5 5 4 30 4 5 4 4 4 1 30 6 10 4 40 3 3 5 5 5 2 30 4 4 3 30 3 4 30 2 30 S SON 2 3 3 40 1 3 1 ) 2 ) 2 30 ) 4 ) 1 t 2 30 19 30 W. 22 23 30 22 30 22 23 30 20 24 26 22 21 17 50 19 30 24 23 21 22 15 23 23 24 22 21 22 25 21 17 23 20 21 23 22 22 25 24 26 21 24 30 21 22 40 19 40 24 25 17 22 22 21 34 23 18 19 30 21 22 30 21 30 26 23 20 April May June July June July June July June July Aug. July Aug. July Aug. Sept. Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Oct. Dec. Nov. Jan. Dec. 17 11 16 16 31 9 22 6 23 9 17 19 24 18 17 16 7 16 7 2 15 14 9 15 30 1 29 6 16 8 26 7 22 1 9 18 6 24 18 29 24 1 12 2 20 14 7 23 S 2£ 2-1 2€ 23 C 2-; 2C 6 N. 7 7 7 7 4 6 4 30 5 8 30 12 9 12 8 40 8 30 15 8 11 7 12 9 10 7 30 11 30 14 30 11 40 13 14 40 13 30 12 12 14 14 17 13 13 16 11 30 13 30 13 30 U 12 8 30 10 16 10 30 7 7 6 6 4 3 5 5 5 ) 6 24 OW. 22 30 25 24 25 25 20 25 26 24 30 21 17 40 25 25 26 26 22 30 27 23 20 25 22 21 24 28 27 27 25 30 26 24 26 26 26 27 28 28 27 26 28 27 30 23 25 26 25 28 22 30 21 40 23 30 19 21 22 30 22 23 26 30 25 21 1793 1798 1800 Melville Castle ... Hose... Marquis Lansdown Admiral Gardner Taunton Castle ... Southerly. Southerly and variable. 1801 1802 1792 Lord Nelson Royal Admiral Kent No light winds. Southerly and variabJe. 1794 1796, 1798 1799 1800 Northumberland ... Carron Variable and calms. Sir Edward H uges Bridgewater Earl Howe Variable. 1803 Marquis Wellesley Lord Nelson CufFnells Easterly to 1° N. 23° W. July 6th, Southerly. Fame Southerly and variable. IROfi Sir W. Bensley ... Dover Castle Walpole 1793 Belmont 1794 Exeter • Variable and Northerly. 1795 1799 Lord Hawkesbury... Tellicherry 1802 1804 1805 Sarah Christiana... Earl Mornington... Abergavenny Sir Wm. Pulteny... Arniston S.W. and Westerly. S.W. and Westerly. S.W. and variable. Variable. S.W. and variable. 1793 Earl Talbot 1798 Queen S.W. brisk winds. 1802 1803 Abergavenny Travers S.W. and variable. 1804 1795 1797 General Stuart ... Duke of Buccleugh Alalabar Variable. 1801 Anna 1802 1804 Princess Charlotte Preston South Westerly. Variable light winds. 179(1 Cirencej-ter 1801 1805 180? Hugh Inglis Princess Mary i Minerva 180f ! Experiment 1804 179: • Princess Mary ^ Swallow & 4 179. J ) Nancv 179( 179' ] Earl Fitzwilliam .. 7 Carnatic Southerly. 179!; i rlawke Variable. 180 1 Travers 180- Ann Calms and faint breezes. 180. ) Northampton Variable and light winds. i EQUATORIAL LIMITS OF ATLANTIC TRADE WINDS. 27 ABSTRACT OF THE FOREGOING TABLE, Exhibiting the Equatorial Limits of the Trades, between 18° and 26° West Longitude, exclusive of the few Ships which made the Eastern Passage to St. Helena. 1 £1^1 Months. Lost N. E. Trade N.E. Trade bccan Mean out Lost S.E. Trade, S. E. T'ade began Mean out i oSll Homeward, in Homeward in and Home. Homeward, in Outward, in and Home. = §£^ 5s^" Latitude. Mean. Latitude. Mean. Latitude. Mean. Latitude. Mean. O O o o o o Jan. 5 to ION. 7 N. 3 to 6 N. 4> N. 5JN. 1— to 4 N. S^N. 2 to 4 N. 3 N. n 3 Feb. 5 10 7 2 7 5 6 ^ S. to 3 11- ^^ 1 1 u H March 2i 8 5J- 2 7 5 5i 1 2 r X 21 H n 3f April 4" 9 6' 4 8 H 5f 2 2^ I 6 2i H H 4i May 5 10 7 4^ 7 6 6* 1 N. to 4 2i 4 3 2| 3f June 7 13 9 7 12 9 9' I 5 3 5 3 3 6 July 8}. 15 12 11 14 12 12 1 6 4 1 5 3 H 8^ August ir 15 13 11 14-1 13 13 |3 6 4 1 4 2^ 3| 9| Sept. 9 14 lU 11 14 12 m |2 4 H 1 3 2 3 8J Oct. 7^ 13 10" 8i 14 10 10 2 5 3 1 5 3 3 7 Nov. 6 11 9 7' 7 8 '3 4 H 3 5 4 33 4} Dec. 5 7 6 3 6 5 H 1 4 4 1 4i 4 34 2i- "■si--- lliii si:*." o ^-t >. S££ "-9 -•a = S qJ Sh C aj « sag 5"- >< =:= C o a, — I S o E .- C >5 "C 0, E .. The observations are rather few in number for some months, to obtain a correct mean ; but the first column shewing the extreme limits for each, will be most useful to refer to, as it marks the situations where the trades may reasonably be expected to fail or commence. An interesting description of winds, printed in 1675, by John Seller, Hydrographer to the King, reprinted by Mr. Dalrymple, in 1807, agrees nearly with the above ab- stract, in fixing the southern limit of the N.E. trade, as experienced in the dif- ferent months of the year. The remarks relative to the southern limit of the N.E. trade, in the treatise mentioned, seem judicious and concise, and are as follows : " In January, February, and March, the north-east trade-wind bloweth commonly unto 4° N. lat., where at that time beginneth the south-east and easterly trade-wind. " In April, the north-east trade-wind bloweth commonly unto 5° N. lat., where then beginneth the south-east wind. " In May, the north-east trade-wind bloweth unto (f N. lat., where at that time beginneth the south-east wind, somewhat more southerly. " In June, the north-east trade- wind bloweth unto 8° N. lat., where then beginneth the southerly wind. " In July, the north-east trade-wind bloweth unto 10° N. lat., where then beginneth the southerly wind somewhat westerly. " In August, the north-east trade-wind bloweth unto 11° N. lat., where the southerly wind begins somewhat westerly. " In September, the north-east trade-wind bloweth unto 10° N. lat., where the south- erly wind beginneth. " In October, the north-east trade-wind bloweth unto 8° N. lat., where then the southerly wind beginneth somewhat easterly. " In November, the north-east trade-wind bloweth unto 6° N. lat., where the south- east wind beginneth. E 2 Limits or N.E. trade. 28 ATLANTIC TRADE WINDS. Variable winds between the trades. Siorms near the equator. " In December, the north-east trade-wind bloweth unto 5° N. lat., where the south- east wind beginneth. " It is to be observed, that between the north-east and the south-east trade-wind, the winds are subject to alteration, which variableness is sometimes found a degree or two sooner or later than the aforesaid latitude ; and the more northerly you are, the more is the variableness found to be about the north and the north-east ; and the more southerly you are, the more are the winds found to blow about the south-east and the south." This observation is partly correct, but it is generally experienced that the southerly winds prevail more than any other throughout the whole space of variable winds between the trades, more particularly when the sun has great North declination ; then the homeward-bound ships are enabled to cross this space more quickly than the ships outward-bound, which they do generally, at all seasons. Calms and variable winds, are also experienced during every month of the year, in the space between the trades ; the former seldom continue long, and the vicinity of the N.E. trade seems most liable to them. Sudden squalls often follow these calms, which ought to be observed Avith great care, and sail quickly reduced when they are perceived to approach ; for many of the East India ships lose their topmasts and sustain other damage by these equatorial squalls, which give very little warning.* These squalls are sometimes accompanied by whirlwinds, in their first effort against the resisting atmosphere, and may blow strong for an hour or two ; but a gale of wind or storm of much duration, prohahly never happens far from land near the equator in the open ocean, or any part of the globe ; although in its vicinity, sudden gusts of wind and whirlwinds are experienced at times. S.W. and W.S.W. winds with much rain, often prevail in July, August, and some- times in June and September, blowing towards the coast of Guinea, and sometimes as far north as the Cape de Verde Islands ; which winds are called the Line Westerly Monsoon, by the navigators who trade to the Gulf of Guinea. I Trade wind near Cape de Verde. FKOM THE CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS ACROSS THE EQUATOR. CROSSING THE EQUATOR— ISLANDS AND DANGERS IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC. CROSSING THE EQUATOR. MANY journals seem to prove, that the N.E. trade-wind is deflected by the projection of Cape de Verde to the westward, and that ships which keep near the coast of Africa lose the trade sooner than others which are at a greater distance from the coast. To guard against this, it is recommended by some commanders, to keep well * The atmosphere is also charged at times with electric matter, from which ships are liable to receive dam- age. The Company's ship Reliance, at 9:\ a.m., March 21st, 18'28, during a torrent of rain from a heavy cloud which burst over her with a tremendous peal of thunder, had her foretopmast struck by lightning, in lat. 1° 45' N. Ion. 22° 20' W., which rent the topmast in pieces, set the gallies on fire, passed down into the gun and orlop decks, filling them with sulphureous smoke, and created a temporary horror and alarm, as there were seven soldiers and about twenty seamen who were more or less scorched or struck by the lightning, and two seamen were swept overboard with the mast and perished. It did not appear that any part of the iron-work about the masts contributed to produce this calamity. The Marquis of Camden, in lat. 4° 30' N., Ion. 22° 18' W., at Z\ A.M., March 23rd, 1828, was struck by lightning, which broke the maintop-gallant-mast and topmast, killed a sergeant and a private soldier, and hurt five seamen. CROSSING THE EQUATOR. WARLEY BANK. 29 to the westward at the time the N. E. trade fails, with a view to retain it longer, to have fewer calms and baffling winds in the variable space, and to meet the S. E. trade-wind sooner than if more eastward. By adhering to this precept, several Crossing the ships have crossed the equator far West, then meeting with the S. E trade hanging ^i"*""^- far from the southward, with strong westerly currents, have made the Brazil coast about Cape Roque, or farther to the westward, which greatly prolonged their voyage. In the summer months, when the sun is in the northern hemisphere, outward bound ships should not run too far to the westward ; for in this season, it has sometimes happened, that the N.E. winds have continued longer with ships in Ion. 19° to 23° W., than with others which had separated from them, and lost the trade in 26° and 27° West longitude. On whatever side the Cape de Verde Islands are passed, the most eligible position at losing the N.E. trade is prohably from Ion. 18° to 23° W. When the sun is near the northern. tropic, the trade often fails ships near, or in sight of these islands ; it is certainly best to pass to the westward of them at such times, at 8 or 10 leagues distance at least, to preserve the steady wind and prevent delay, as light eddy winds prevail near and amongst them in this season. When to the south- ward of the Cape de Verde Islands, steer to the south-eastward, if the wind permit, and endeavour to get into Ion. 18° to 23° W. at losing the N.E. trade. If then, the southerly winds commence, take advantage of the shifts to stand on the tack which gains most southing, and endeavour to cross the equator from 18° to 23° W., if the winds admit ; but do not be induced to make a long tack either eastward or westward, with a dead southerly wind, in hopes of meeting a better, unless it veer so far, as to gain much southing. The S. E. trade, generally at its northern limit, inclines far to the southward, particularly in July, August, and September ; and the same has been known in other months. When a ship meets this trade, she should not be kept too close to the wind, or she will make little progress, but ought to be kept clean full, to enable her to make good way through the water to the south-westward, by which means she will soon get to the southward of the limits of the westerly* current prevailing about the equator. Current near and to lat. 4° or 5° N. : it also extends to lat. 3° or 4° S. about Fernando Noronha ; """ ^'i"'"'''- and from Ion. about 27° W. to Cape Roque, it runs very strong, particularly from September to March. In proceeding to the southward, the wind will draw more to the S. E. and finally to East and E.N.E. at the southern limit of the trade. ISLANDS AND DANGERS. WARLEY BANK, is described by Capt. Collins, of that ship, to be a small coral wariey Bank. bank (which she passed over, at 7 a.m. May 7th, 1813) about 100 feet long and 50 feet broad, which was distinctly seen ; its edges were clearly delineated, and upon it several ridges of rock appeared, with sand l)etween them. The ship passed too quickly over it to admit of time to sound, it being accidentally seen by Capt. Collins, when looking over the quarter. He thought there might be 7 fathoms water over the shoalest part; and a quarter-master, who also saw it, thinks the least water on this shoal might probably be 10 or 12 fathoms. * In winter, the currents from the Cape de Verde Islands sometimes set easterly and sometimes westerly to 4° or 5° N. lat., at other times they are variable; but to the southward of lat. 3° or 4° N., and westward of Ion, 20° or 22° W., the equatorial current perpetually runs to the westward. 30 ST. PAUL ROCKS. FERNANDO NORONHA. St. Paul Kocks. Variation. Fernando Noronha. Dangers. The fleet at this time consisted of eight ships, including H.M.S. Salsette, their con- vov ; and by mean of all the observations and chronometers of those eight ships, this very doubtful rocky bank is situated in lat. 5° 4' N., Ion. 21° 26' VV. It might have been a shoal of Devil-fish the Warley passed over; they are grega- rious, and of large size near the equator, and as they swira several fathoms below the surface, their variegated backs appear sometimes exactly like coral rocks. ST. PAUL ROCKS, called also Penedo de San Pedro, in lat. 0° 55' N., Ion. 29° 15' VV., by mean of many ships' chronometers and lunar observations. Captain Foster, in H. M.S. Chanticleer, in 1828, made it in long. 29° 17' by mean of seventeen chro- nometers. Captain Fitz Roy, who visited tliese rocks in Feb. 1832, places the summit of them in Ion. 29° 22' 45" W. He says "from the highest point of the rock no discoloured water nor any breaking of the sea could be discerned apart from the place itself; and from the soundings taken in the boats as well as on board the ship, I con- clude that it is unconnected with any shoal, being merely the summit of a steep sided mountain, rising from the bottom of the ocean. There was a slight current setting to the westward not amounting to a mile an hour." This rocky isle has been seen by several ships both outward and homeward-bound, although it is considerably to the westward of the common route of the latter ; and no ship bound to the southward should cross the equator so far West. The Tellicherry passed within five miles of it. May 17th, 1802, bound for India. A view was taken, when it bore from N. 30° W., to N. 37° W., distant five or six miles ; by this view, St. Paul seems to be a heap of rugged rocks, having low gaps between some of them; the northernmost is a small pyramidal rock, not so high as the others. The description annexed to the view in the journal, says, "This island is all rocks, about the height of a ship's mast out of the water."* Mons. de Landeneuf, in the ship Le Curieux, was sent to explore this island in 1768. His account and the Tellicherry 's are similar : he found it consisted only of a heap of steep rocks, covered with birds' dung, without verdure, having no place fit for anchoring, nor convenient for landing. The variation at St. Paul by Capt. Fitz Roy in 1832, was 9° 30' W. FERNANDO NORONHA, which consists of one large and several small islands, has not unfrequently been visited or seen by ships bound to India, the currents having horsed them to the westward, after the failure of the N. E. trade. Fernando Noronha is peopled with exiles from the coast of Brazil, and is well defended by forts, built on the places most eligible for its security. It is hilly uneven land, and may be seen 10 leagues in clear weather. The principal island has on it a high rocky peak, called the Pyramid, which is very remarkable, and seems to lean or overhang to the eastward, when it bears S.S.W. The S. W. point is perforated, and has off it a sunken rock at a considerable distance, dangerous to approach. From the S. E. part of the island a reef extends to seaward, and some sunken rocksf at nearly a league dis- tance from the shore. There is also said to be a reef on which the sea always breaks, about three miles from the East part of the island, with a channel of 10 to 15 fathoms within it, and that the Pyramid is shut in with the highest hill when upon the rocks. It IS elevated about 35 feet above the sea, and consists of a group of several rocks adjoining each other, with soundings of 30 to 80 fathoms near them, as found bv a commander of the navv. who landed on it in 1813. " t Mr. Driver describes these as two rocks above water, distant about 3 J miles off the S.E. part of the island. FERNANDO NORONHA. — ROCCAS, 31 The group extends nearly 7 miles about S.W. and N.E., and is less than two miles Extent, sup- broad ; the shores are rocky and the surf frequently high ; at such times there is no p''**'*"^- safe landing. It is not advisable to touch at this island, except in cases of necessity ; for water is a scarce article in the dry season, and when procurable, cannot always be got off from the shore on account of the surf. The well which supplies ships with water is near the governor's house, but landing the casks and getting off the water is inconvenient. There is little rain ; sometimes two years have passed without any, the rivulets being dried up, and vegetation quite parched ; at such times a ship would obtain little benefit by stopping here. Wood is cut on a little island near the North point of the large one, but is not conveniently got into the boats on account of the rocky shore. The General Stuart anchored at Fernando Noronha, September 15th, 1803 (out- ward-bound), in 18 fathoms water, the N.E. end of Wood Isle E.N.E., the S.W. end of Fernando Noronha S.W. by W., the Peak S. by W., Water Bay S. i E., off shore about 2 miles. She remained here four days, and could procure only nine casks of water, the well being nearly dry. November 'iOth, 1805, the Ann, outward-bound, anchored in 17 fathoms shells and rocky bottom, extremity of Fernando Noronha from E.N.E. to S.W. by W,, the Peak S. by W., the Church and Round Castle S. by E., the large Fort E.S.E., off shore 2 or 2^ miles. November 22d, 1805, the Tigris anchored in a ^ less 9 fathoms, sand and rocky bottom. Cloven Rock, N.E. i N., Fort Island N.E. by E. f E., Fort Reraedios S.S.E. ^ E., Pyramid S.W. ^ S., western extreme S.W. by W. | W., off shore about a mile. These ships sailed in company 24th ; the Tigris received three bullocks, the Ann received some stock and twelve butts of water, but they found great difficulty in getting the water from the shore, the surf being very high. The currents run very strong to the westward about Fernando Noronha, therefore. Currents. ships intending to anchor here, should always pass round the North end of the island, which is formed by a chain of several small islets, very near each other, having forts on some of them that command the anchorage. There is good anchorage in 13 fathoms, fine white sand, off shore about 1 mile. Anchorage. with Fort St. Antonio E. by S. ^ S., Fort Remedies S. by W., Fort Concep^ao S.S.W. ^ W., Pyramid S. 42° W. The road of Fernando Noronha is unsafe to lie in with northerly or north-westerly winds, which are said to prevail from December to April ; at other times, they are mostly S.E. or easterly, and sometimes N.E. The tide rises about 6 feet, and flows at 4 hours on full and change of the Moon. Tide. There is very little variation of the compass here at the present time.* The Pyramid is in lat. 3° 55^' S., and in Ion. 32° 16' W., by General Brisbane and Position. Mr. Rumker, in 1821, measured from Funchal by good chronometers, and also by measurement to Rio Janeiro. Capt. Beechey, R.N., on his voyage to the Pacific, in 1825, made it in Ion. 32° 15' 9" W., by chronometers, and in 32° 14' 43" W. corrected for the errors of chronometers after arriving at Rio Janeiro. By mean of 100 lunar observations he made it in Ion. 32° 18' 46" W. Capt. Foster, in H.M.S. Chan- ticleer, in 1828, made the Governor's house in lat. 3° 50' S., Ion. 32° 21' W. Captain Fitz Roy in 1832, places Fort Concep^ao in 32° 25' W. ROCCAS, is a very dangerous low isle or reef, a little above water. Ships which Roccas. * Capt. Fitz Roy in 1832 found the variation 7° W. 32 ROCCAS. — MARTIN VAS ROCKS. Portuguese account. jouirals. pass between Fernando Noronha, and the Brazil coast, should be cautions in the night, if not certain of their position ; for the strong westerly currents are liable to sweep them to leeward. The Earl Elgin saw it in July, 1761, having first seen Fernando Noronha on the 13th, and on the 19th she had soundings on the bank off Cape Roque ; at noon 2.'}d, the Roccas bore E. ^ N. to E. ^ S., distant 4 miles, observed lat. 3° 50' S. This ship's Ion. by account, placed the Roccas 2° 12' E. from Fernando Noronha, whereas it is about 50 miles West of the Island; she had therefore, experienced a westerly .set of 3° 2' in ten days. In the Earl Elgin, they call it a low island, or more properly, a shoal, that cannot be seen at 3 leagues distance; a sand bank, surrounded by rocks, with high breakers mostly all round, and a projecting point of breakers at the North and South ends of the shoal. By the Portuguese, the Roccas is said to bear West, a little northerly, distance 15 leagues from Fernando Noronha. Accounts from The Compauy's ship Britannia, and King George transport, were wrecked on this Engi'^sh ships' j.ggf ^j. ^ ^ jj^ 2d November, 1805. Captain Birch, who commanded the Britannia, says, " the Roccas are only distant from Fernando Noronha 45 miles ; their latitude the same as that island ; the rocks most dangerous are to the northward and north- eastward ; the whole extent may be about 5 miles ; the current set 2^ miles per hour to the westward ; rise and fall of tide 6 feet." Jn the fleet, several ships narrowly escaped the fate of the Britannia and King George, having separated several days before. The Leda frigate, with one division, led past the shoal, and just cleared it, when the Britannia and King George were wrecked. Several ships of the other division, under Sir Home Popham, saw the shoal on the following morning. The Northampton's journal describes it as a dangerous shoal, very little above water, with breakers all round, except on the S.W. or lee-side, where appeared a white sandy beach, on which a boat might land. The Glory's journal describes it as two low sand banks, when it bore S.S.E. 2 or 3 miles ; and when on the West side of it, at 2 miles distance, she had ground 28 fathoms, coral rock. By mean of the observations and chronometers of ten different ships, taken about thirty years ago, the Roccas shoal seems to be in lat. 3° 52j' S., Ion. 33° 31' W. ; but allowing the longitude of Fernando Noronha stated above to be correct, and that the difference of their meridians is 50 miles, then the Roccas will be in about Ion. 33° 6' or 33° 7' W., which is probably near the truth. Position. Martin Vas Rocks. MARTIN VAS ROCKS, are high and barren, the central one is largest, arid may be seen from a large ship's poop at 11 leagues distance ; this is a little more easterly than the other two, altiiough they are nearly on the same meridian, as they are all in one when bearing South. The northernmost and central rocks are near each other, but between the latter and the southernmost there is a channel, through which the Ches- terfield passed in March 1800, and observed the lat. 20° 28' S. when in mid-channel. When through, she hove to, in 12 fathoms, with the largest rock bearing E.N.E. about 1 mile distant, the bottom then visible, and caught plenty of rock-cod and other fish : the boat in sounding, found the depth decrease gradually over a rocky bottom, to \^ fathom close to the largest rock. Capt. Mallors, of the ship Rose, southern sealer, belonging to Messrs. Enderby, states that in July 1833, he discovered a sunken rock, bearing N.E. from the largest Martin Vas, about 2| miles, to which a boat was sent, and found the swell formed a breaker when passing over it. i TRINIDAD. 33 The north rock is small, and it is the most westerly of them ; they are all steep and inaccessible, and the distance between the two extremes is about 3 miles. The breadth of the channel between these rocks and the Island of Trinidad is about 8^ leagues. By mean of the observations and chronometers of 12 different ships, the central Position. Martin Vas Rock is in lat. 20° 28' 30" S., Ion. 28° 42' W. ; but Capt. Owen in his survey makes the largest rock in lat. 20° 29^' S., Ion. 28° 54^' W. Lieut. Raper adopts 28° 51' W. TRINIDAD is about six miles in circumference, extending nearly S.E. and N.W. ; it is high and uneven, and just discernible from a large ship's poop in clear weather at 18 leagues distance. It is rocky, and in general barren, but in some parts there are trees about 12 or 18 inches diameter on the heights, particularly about the South part of the island. The shore is rocky and difficult of access, occasioned by the higii surf continually breaking on it in every part. On the West side, almost de- tached from the island, there is a rock about 850 feet high, with trees on it, called the Monument, or Nine Pin, which is of cylindrical form. There is also a bluff" rock, about 800 feet high, through which there is a stupendous arched passage, 40 feet in breadth, nearly 50 in height, and 420 in length; the sea breaks through tlie arch with great noise, and there are more than 3 fathoms water under it, and in the basin formed at its East side. At the S.E. end of the island there is a rock of a conical form, about ],1(J0 feet high, called the Sugar Loaf, with trees likewise on its summit, and whenever it rains hard, u beautiful waterfall of above 700 feet is projected from it. At the East and S.VV. sides of the island, good water runs down in two small streams; it may also be procured at times from the rock that forms the S.VV. extreme; but, excepting when rain prevails, these i-uns are very small, and it seems probable, that they may in some seasons be dried up. Ships should not stop at this island for water, unless greatly in want, for much difficulty is found in getting it from the shore ; the anchorage is also unsafe, as the winds are often variable, and if a gale happen from West or south-westward, they would be in danger of driving on the shore. This insecurity of the anchorage deters ships from visiting the island, although they often see it in passing to the southward through the S.E. trade. Although Trinidad is within the southern tropic, the S.E. trade-wind is not regular there; N.E. and northerly winds often happen, particularly the former, and sometimes hard squalls, or , S.W. gales have been experienced, which render the anchorage at this island hazardous. Ships touching at Trinidad, to endeavour to procure water, should anchor in 30 fathoms, about a mile from the West part of the island, that they may be able to clear it on either tack, should the wind blow from the westward ; for the Rattlesnake was wrecked in a westerly gale, and the Jupiter and Mercury narrowly escaped de- struction. The Georgina packet anchored in October 1799 at the N.W. end of Trinidad, in 19 fathoms, fine black sand, and moored off" shore about 3 cables' lengths ; the ex- tremes of the island East and South ; a large rock detached from it about a i mile bore S.S.W. f W. about | mile; found 10, 11, and 12 fathoms coral, between the rock and the shore. The surf being great, they landed at one place with difficulty, and shot some wild hogs ; good water was found about ^ a mile inland, but it seemed almost impossible to get it from the shore on account of the surf, and it must have been carried about ^ a mile in small kegs, had they been in immediate want. Trinidad. Water. Anchorage. i 34 TRINIDAD. Captain Charles Lesley, of the Orford man-of-war, in his journal of 1773-4, men- tions three bays at the South and S.VV. sides of Trinidad. He recommends the easternmost as the best, the western or middle bay being rocky, and the northernmost having shoal water. The easternmost bay seems to be situated at the S.E. part of the island. Captain Lesley says, a church with a cross on it stands at the upper part of the bay, and that a ship may anchor in six fathoms, the church bearing W.S.W., and a point like the South Foreland S.W. by W., and may moor with one cable on shore. The watering place he describes to be near the church, and that a long boat may fill the water there with a spout or hose. Notwithstanding this description of the bay at the South [)art of the island, it would certainly be imprudent for any ship to anchor there with the S.E. trade-wind, and it probably ought never to be done unless the weather is very settled, and the wind fixed to the northward: at all events, no navigator would approach so near as to moor with a cable on shore, except this were a safe harbour, which it certainly is not. Perhaps there is at present no vestige of a church at this place. The Chesterfield passed the North end of the island very close, in March 1800, and her boat went all round it; the shore appeared to be steep and bold to approach. She an- chored in 25 fathoms, witli the Nine Pin bearing N.N.E. 1 mile; they could only land at one part about a mile from the watering place, on account of the surf, and although good water ran down within 50 fathoms of the shore, they could only get it to the long boat moored outside the surf by filling canvas bags, holding about 10 gallons each, and hauling them off" by a circular rope of communication rove through a block in the boat. H. M.S. Bristol once anchored here, and filled about 30 tons of water in one day, with a long hose, when there happened to be little surf. The Chesterfield got about 30 young hogs, which were very good; there are many wild goats on the island, but they are shy, and cannot be caught. By*mean of the observations and chronometers of ten diflTerent ships, the centre of the Posiiion. Island of Trinidad is in lat. 20° 29' 30" S., and in Ion. 29° 10' W. Capt. P. Heywood and Capt. Corry, of the Royal Navy, made it in Ion. "29° 14f' W. by mean of chronometric admeasurements from Madeira, St. Helena, and Kio Janeiro, corresponding within one and two miles of each other; some observers make it a little more westerly. Capt. Flinders made the S.E. point in Ion. 29° 19' W., by lunar observation, and 29° 23' W. by chronometers. Capt. Owen made the same point in lat. 20° 31' S., Ion. 29° 22' VV., in 1822, and he made the variation 5° West in 1821. Capt. Shepherd, of the Company's ship Hythe, made the body of the island in Ion. 29° 10' W. by mean of several obser- vations in diflTerent voyages. Lieut. Raper adopts 29° 19' W. for the South Point. ivom the Some outward-bound East-India ships, after crossing the equator, have found the 3fi's"wc'n. ^■^' ^^'^^^ ^^'" ^o ^^^^ eastward, which enal)led them to pass in sight of the Island of sion. Ascension : this can only happen to ships which cross the equator far eastward of the common track, when the sun is near the southern tropic. The trade-wind may then veer to E. by S. or East ; and at such times, a South course may probably be made, by keeping close to the wind in crossing the trade ; although ships bound to India, or the Cape of Good Hope, should not adopt this route with a view of shortening the dis- tance ; for their principal object is to get quickly through it, into the northerly and westerly winds, where they will soon run down the longitude. Although Ascension is seldom seen by ships bound to India, it is directly in the route of those homeward bound, for they generally see it in passing; particularly in times of peace, when no danger is apprehended from cruizers. ASCENSION. 85 ASCENSION ISLAND, about 2^ leagues in length from East to West and 2 leagues Ascension. broad from North to South, may be seen 15 leagues or more, in clear weather, there being several peaked hills on it; the highest, called Green Mountain, is situated near the S.E. part of the island, and is about 2,800 feet high,* and appears a double peak in some views. Most of the hills are covered with red earth, like brick dust, being a decom- position of the volcanic rock, which forms the island. It has a most dreary aspect, the surface consisting of calcined rocks and pumice stone, dangerous and difficult in some places to walk over, as they have little solidity, and are often sharp-pointed and rough. There was formerly no verdure except purslane, which grew mostly about the Green Mountain, and was found in April, May, June, and July. Dampier (whose ship was lost on this island) is said to have discovered a spring of fresh water on the S.E. side of the High Mountain, about ^ a mile from its summit. At that time (1700-1), he found plenty of goats and land cral)s near the spring of water. Since the time that Bonaparte was sent to St. Helena, a British naval force has been placed at Ascension, and the men composing it have found means to form some garden grounds, wherein they culti- vate vegetables of various kinds for the use of the table. It has been found a healthy island, and a valuable depot for provisions, which this dry atmosphere preserves ; whereas, on the coast of Guinea all kinds of provisions soon become corrupted. Some small springs have lately been found, and the water is now conducted from them in Supplies. iron pipes to the garrison ; and at times some can be procured for the supply of ship- ping. The wild goats are lean ; rats and mice abound, and there are a few insects. The summit of the mountain is frequently enveloped in clouds or vapour, but rain seldom falls. Ships homeward bound from India, and whalers, often touched here for a supply of turtle, which were formerly abundant, particularly in February, March, and April; but since this place became a permanent naval station, turtle can only be obtained occasion- ally by purchase."!" There is a bay of considerable depth and extent close on the North side of the S.W. s.w. Bay. point of the island, about 3 miles distant from the anchorage. In this bay Captain Hey- wood found the landing safe, and on the nights of the 24th and 25th of February, turned 36 large turtles, whilst very few could be obtained by the people stationed at the bays contiguous to the anchorage; but this was long before the island was inhabited by the British as a naval station. A ship intending to stop at Ascension should steer round the North point of the island, which is a low rocky point with deep water near it, and may be passed within two or three cables' lengths with a commanding breeze : when passed this point, Sandy Bay, or as it is now called, Clarence Bay, will soon be seen to the S.W. It is a small bay, with a white sandy beach, having a hill like a dome a little distance inland. This hill had formerly a cross upon it, but has now a flag staff, whence it is called Cross or Flagstaff Hill. From the West point of Sandy Bay, a reef of rocks projects about H Anchorage in miles, on which the sea breaks when there is much swell ; at other times there are no ^^"^■' ^''■■ breakers on it. When a ship has passed the North point of the island, she should haul up into * In 1830, the late Capt. Henry Foster, while making scientific obser^'ations and swinging the pendulum at Ascension, made the summit of Green Mountain 2,805 feet high ; Moimtain House, 2,230 feet ; and Cross Hill. 870 feet above the surface of the sea, by levelling. t Lieut. G. A. Bedford, who visited Ascension in 1838, when in command of the Raven surveying vessel, under the orders of Capt. Vidal, says, that turtle are still plentiful in the sandy bays and coves, but that any person found taking them on the beach or when floating near the island, would be liable to the penalty of £25. They may be purchased for £2 10s. each. Sheep and goats are becoming scarce. F 2 r- 36 ASCEMSION. Dangers, Position. Variation. Tides. Sandy Bay and anchor abreast the beach in 15 or 16 fathoms sandy bottom, with Cross Hill S. by E. i E. or S.S.E., offshore about | of a mile.* The landing place, called Tartar Stairs, is at a jetty behind an isolated rock at the western part of the bay. This rock makes a sort of division between Sandy Bay and another bay to the westward, which has also a sandy beach in some places, and may be considered a continuation of the easternmost bay. In this western part there are some detached rocks ; on one of which the Egmont struck in 1771 : it was found to be a very small rock, with ^ less 3 fathoms water on it, and 13 fathoms close to it on the outside ; there were 13 fathoms between it and the shore, from which it was distant about 2 cables' lengths. The summit of the rock, where the depth on it was | less 3 to 5 fathoms, was not of more extent than 4 or 5 feet square. The naval officer at Ascension has given the following account of the dangers in the bay, ascertained by a late survey : — From the Twelve Feet Rock, Tartar Stairs bear S.E. i E. distant ^ mile. From the Fifteen Feet Rock, Tartar Stairs bear E.S.E. distant nearly ^ mile. These rocks are two, of many, which form the reef that extends from the foot of the Fort to South-West Bay, projecting to seaward more than ^ a mile from the shore, and consisting of hard pointed lava rocks, with spots of white sand. A large coppered buoy is now placed on the N.W. point of the reef, over a rock having 30 feet water upon it, and 8 fathoms close to, on the outside. From the buoy on this rock the crane at Tartar Stairs bears S.E. by E. f E. distant 7 tenths of a mile. A ship must not go within the buoy, nor come nearer the reef than 10 fathoms water, for with a long swell the sea breaks on the reef, from within a cable's length of the buoy the whole way to the shore. Although the anchorage is to leeward, at the N.W. part of the island, there is often a high surf on the shore; caution is therefore requisite, as many ships have had their boats stove by the surf in landing. The summit of the mountain, or centre of the island, is in lat. 7° oSJ'S., and the anchorage of the road in lat. 7° 55' S., and by many chronometers 8° 39' West from James Town, St. Helena, or in Ion. 14° 23^' W., if 5° 44i-' W. be allowed for the longitude of James Town. Capt. Owen made the anchorage in Ion. 14° 26^' W. in 1826, and Major Sabine, during his scientific voyage of experiments, to ascertain the figure of the globe, by his obser- vations, while at Ascension, made that part of the island called Barrack Square, in lat. 7° 55' 56" S., Ion. 14° 23' 46" W. Capt. Foster made Barrack Square in lat. 7° 55' 2.3" S., Ion. 14° 23' W. ; and the variation of the needle 20° 10' W., which seems too great. Captain Fitz Roy places Barrack Square in lat. 7° 55' 33" S., Ion. 14° 24' 15'' W. Va- riation in 1836, 18° 30' W. Lieut. Raper in discussing the longitude of this place gives Ion. 14° 25' 35" W. as his result. There is very little rise or fall of tide;t greatest rise 2 feet, high water at 5^ hours. * Along the N.W. side of the island, the bank of soundings extends about 2 miles oft' shore ; the bottom said to be rocky, where the depth exceeds 18 or 20 fathoms. t In places where the shores are lined with a sandy beach, and this bounded by a coral reef or a range of breakers, turtle are generally plentiful ; and moonhght nights are the times when the females come on shore in the greatest numbers, to deposit their eggs in the sand. If there is a reef facing the beach, and a rise and fall of tide, they wait for the rising tide to float them over it, and reach the beach an hour or two before high water, that they may have time sufficient to dig large holes in which they deposit their eggs, and return to sea about high water, or before it has fallen much on the reef. If the beach has a gentle acclivity, they dig the pits at a considerable distance from high-water mark, among bushes, small sand hillocks, or in the most con- venient secret places near the beach, and then deposit their eggs in them. Some of these holes or pits are of considerable dimensions, employing the mother turtle upwards of an hour digging them. By those in search of turtle, the beach should not be frequented till near high water, or the time they are supposed to be mostly i ST. HELENA. 37 ST. HELENA ISLAND, lies in the Soutli Atlantic Ocean, in the strength of the si. luienii. S.E. trade. Before the use of chronometers and lunar observations, navigators were or making ti.e directed, in running for St, Helena, to fall into its parallel 50 or 60 leagues eastward '"'""'' of it, to lie by in the night, and steer West in the day till they made the land. This prac- tice is no longer requisite, for most of the East India ships, homeward-bound, steer now a direct course from the Cape to St. Helena, and make the island day or night : as they generally know the longitude within a few miles of the truth, there can belittle danger of missing it, although this has sometimes happened, the body and leeward part of the island being frequently enveloped in fog clouds, particularly in the night. If a ship, in such case, fall a little to leeward, she will easily work up to the anchorage, unless she sail indifferently upon a wind, for the current seldom runs strong to leeward near this island ; this, however, may happen, when the trade blows strong with squalls, for a few days, which is sometimes experienced about the full and change of the moon ; but this lee current is generally of short continuance. In times of war, when any of the enemy's cruizers visit St. Helena, they keep to the eastvvard and south-eastward of it, at the distance of 15, 20, and 25 leagues; single ships, which sail well, would avoid these cruizers, were they to make the island bearing from N.N.E. to EastorS.E., and afterwards make short tacks under the lee of it, till they reach the anchorage. I have seen store ships from England make the island bearing E.S.E. directly to windward of them.at the distance of 15 or 18 leagues; they sailed indifferently, but reached the anchor- age the third day after having seen the island. There are sometimes calms near it ; the Mead was becalmed from the 17th to the 22d May, 1710, within (i and 8 leaguesof theEast part of the island, the current setting to the eastward prevented her from being driven near it by the swell, and she did not get into the anchorage till the 24th of May. This island is about three leagues in extent, nearly N.E. and S.W., of an oblong Description. square form, about 26 or 27 miles round. The steep rocky cliffs facing the sea pre- sent a sterile and unfavourable appearance to an observer in sailing round the East part of the island, but the chasms or valleys in the interior, and likewise the hills, are fruitful, and clothed with continual verdure, except in very dry seasons, when it is sometimes burnt up for want of moisture. The highest part of the principal ridge of mountains in the centre of the island is called Diana Peak, and is about 2,200 feet high. Nearer the S.W. part, there is a hill of a conical form, called High Peak, about 50 feet less elevated than the former. On these hills, and on the high grounds, the air is always cool and pleasant ; fog clouds frequently cover the Peaked Hills, or, being- driven from the sea by the trade wind, strike against them, producing gentle showers, which quicken the vegetation and cool the atmosphere on the high grounds, althougli in the valleys on the leeward side of the island the sun is often very powerful. There is very little level ground on this island, for it evidently appears to have been forced npwards from the ocean by subterraneous fire; the abrupt ridges and chasms into which it is split seem to prove this origin, and the effects of amalgamation by fire are visible from the summits of the hills to the cavities formed by the abrasion of the surge at the water's edge. Thunder is seldom heard at St. Helena: lightning has been at times observed in Weather. cloudy weather, accompanied by a sultry atmosphere ; showers of rain are expei-ienced in all seasons, but in some months more than others. Several years back, a heavy condensed cloud broke on the mountain over Rupert Valley, deluged it with a torrent of water, and carried a great part of the breast-work and some of the guns into the sea, al- though this valley is generally dry, there being no run of water in it, except in heavy rains. on shore. In walking along it, silence should be observed, for the smallest noise will alarm them, and those not already on shore will in such case return to sea. 38 ST. HELENA. Batteries Signals. Soundings. Sperry Ledge. Barn Ledge. Of approaching the anchorage. At the N.E. extremity of the island, there is a pyramidal hill close to the sea, called the Sugar Loaf, with a signal post on it. At the base of this hill there are three batteries, at a small distance from each other, called Buttermilk, and Banks Upper and Lower Batteries ; a little to the S.W. of these, Rupert Battery appears at the bottom of the valley of this name, formed of a strong stone wall mounted with heavy cannon ; and Munden Point divides this valley from James or Chapel Valley, where James Town, the only one on the island, is situated. Munden Fort, on the point of the same name, is strong, and with several guns placed on the heights over it, com- mands that side of James Valley. This valley has on the S.W. side, a hill elevated nearly 800 feet perpendicular from the sea, called Ladder Hill, with a heavy battery of guns upon it, that commands the S.W. entrance to the valley and the anchorage. James Valley is also protected by a wall, and strong line of cannon at its entrance, close to the sea. There is a battery at Sandy Bay, on the South side of the island, w here boats might land when the surf is not great ; but this, and the few places where landing is possible, are well protected by batteries or guns placed on the heights over them ; and on the summits of the hills there are convenient signal posts all over the island, wliich communicate by telegraph with each other, and with the castle. When a ship is descried, a gun is fired at the signal post where she is first seen, and this is repeated by the other posts to the castle; this is called an alarm: if more ships appear, a gun is fired for each, till five in number, when the signal is made for a fleet ; but if more than two sail appear to be steering together for the island, a general alarm is beat, and every person immediately takes the station assigned him, and remains under arms till the governor is informed by the boats what ships they are. All round the island there are soundings of 15 or 20 fathoms very near the shore, deepening quickly to 150 or 200 fathoms, about one mile from it in most places, then no ground ; but South and S. by W., true bearing from the south point of the island, a spit of soundings about one mile broad, projects about two miles, the bottom rocky and very uneven.* Sperry Ledge has only S^ or 3 fathoms on it in some places, with 25 and 35 fathoms between it and the South point of the island, from which it is distant upwards of a mile true S. by W.f This is the only danger at a considerable distance oft' the island, and it is not in the way of ships unless they fall to leeward and round the South point ; in such case, they should give it a berth of 2 miles till it bear about N.E., then haul up for the S.W. or western point, which is bold to approach. Barn Ledge is about \^ cable's length in circuit, with 12, 8, and 6 to 31 fathoms on it, sharp rocks on the shoalest parts. Barn Point bears from it N.W. ^ N., distant about I of a mile, and there are 24 and 20 fathoms between it and the shore, with 32 fathoms near it on the outside. Large ships coming from S.E. should keep the small islet, called George Island, well open with Saddle Point, until Sugar Loaf Point is open with Barn Point, which will carry them clear outside of the Ledge; or keep a mile from the shore till nearly abreast of Barn Point, which is the N.E. part of the island. All ships coming from the eastward heave-to, before they pass Sugar Loaf Point, and send a boat with an officer to report them. The boat is generally hailed from the battery at Sugar Loaf Point, but she must proceed to James Town, to give the governor information, before the ship is permitted to pass the first battery at the Sugar Loaf. i * According to the survey of the bank of soundings, by Mr. G. Thorns, of H.M.S. Northumberland, in 1815. t Purdy describes it as "a reef, two cables' length in circuit, with depths of 16 to 10 fathoms, and pointed rocks of 24 to 18 feet." ST. HELENA, 39 Ships of war, and all others, must observe this precaution, or the batteries will open upon them and shut them out from the anchorage, which is well defended by the forts and batteries. When the boat is seen returning, a ship may then make sail, and pass within a cable's length or less, of Sugar Loaf Point : she should afterwards keep the shore close a-board in passing Rupert Valley, with the head-sails braced well forward, as the gusts of wind from the high land veer several points, and may take the sails aback, if precau- tion is not used to prevent it. When past Rupert Valley, Munden Point ought also to be kept pretty close to ; but care must be taken to avoid the sunken rock lying off the fort about 30 or 40 yards from the Point; on which, by borrowing close to the shore, the Lascelles, Fox, and other ships struck, and were nearly lost. For .several years past, there has been a small buoy with a red flag placed over this rock. When Munden Point is passed, James Valley and Town appear; off which is the proper anchorage. Abreastof James Valley, the anchor may be dropped in from 8 to 15 fathoms, with Anchorage. the flag staff on the castle in James Town S.S.E., or S.E. by S. The anchorage is equally good off the East corner of Ladder Hill, or abreast of it, with the flag-staff about E.S.E. If a ship anchor in less than 14 fathoms off Ladder Hill, she should be kept at a short scope of cable, till a kedge or stream anchor is laid out in the offing to moor by ; for light eddy winds and calms prevail under the hill, she may therefore be liable to swing with her stern in shore, and tail on the rocks, if there is much cable out and the anchor under 14 fathoms. In weighing from under the hill, the mner anchor must be first taken up, to prevent tailing on the rocks, which happened to the Melville Castle, and other ships. Ships generally moor with a stream or kedge anchor to the offing, and sometimes with a bower anchor; those in the stream of the valley seldom swing with their sterns towards it, for a continued breeze, and frequent gusts of wind, blow from it to seaward . If a ship anchor in 35 or 40 fathoms water, and the anchor does not hold, all the cable may be veered out, to make her ride if possible, till a convenient opportunity ofi'er to warp farther in ; but do not let go a second anchor, for if she will not bring up with one, it ought to be hove up, then sail set to work her in by short tacks, under lee of the island, till she gain proper anchorage nearer the shore. When the wind is light, the ships swing with their heads alternately to the eastward Tides. and westward, at times, this being the effect of a current or sort of tide; but this tide is very weak, and the rise and fall on the shore at full and change of the moon is not more than two or three feet perpendicular. Lemon Valley is about two miles to the S.W. of James Valley, and has a run Lemon and of good water in it ; but it is difficult to water at this place on account of the surf and *^"''"' alleys. rocky shore. Ships do not anchor off this valley, it being distant from the town. Abreast of Rupert Valley they sometimes anchor, but the ground is not so good as abreast of James Valley and Ladder Hill ; here the bank extends about a mile from the shore, shelving with a steep declivity, when the depth is more than 4 fathoms. It is not prudent to anchor in deep water near the edge of the bank, for the gusts of wind from the valley are liable to start the anchor when a siiip lies far out ; nor could it avail to let go another anchor, for the steepness of the bank would prevent it from taking hold of the ground. I have seen several ships drive off the bank with two anchors down, and all the cables veered out, which occasioned great exertion and fatigue to recover them, and afterwards to work up to the anchorage. \ v 40 ST. HELENA. James Town. Ladder Hill. Longwood. Water and other supplies. James Town is situated in the entrance of the valley, and is almost obscured by the im- pending rocky mountains enclosing it ; a row of trees behind the ramparts, and another behind the governor's house, give it a pleasing appearance. The houses are neatly built on each side of the principal street, which lies in a direct line up the valley; higher up, there is a long walk between two rows of trees, having an enclosed square on the left side, and terminated by a garden belonging to the Company. There is a run of water in James Valley, proceeding from a small spring on the left-hand side, and from a waterfall, which pours overa concave precipice, about 200 feet perpendicular, into an ancient volcanic crater at the head of the valley. Water cresses are often plentiful about the edges of this run of water, and are very serviceable to ships with scorbutic crews. On the right side of the valley, a zig-zag road has been cut out with great labour, for ascending Ladder Hill ; persons on horseback, and carts, can pass up and down it with safety. This road leads to the governors country-house, and to the S.W. parts of the island. On the left side of the valley, there is a good carriage road, called Side Path, which leads to the interior, and to the eastern parts of the island ; other cross roads join these two, and lead to the various plantations. The interior forms a beautiful contrast to the rugged steep cliffs which surround the island ; for here, in every valley, small houses and gardens are seen with excellent pasture, and sheep or cattle feeding in different places. Near the East side of the island, the plantation called Long Wood* contains the greatest quantity of level ground ; there is a considerable space planted with trees here, but a scarcity of water prevailed, until General Beatson, when governor of the island, brought a supply by artificial means. The water that supplies the garrison and shipping is conveyed by leaden pipes from a spring in the valley, distant more than a mile from the sea. These pipes lead the water to the jetty, which has two cranes for loading boats with goods or water-casks, or to receive stores from the shipping. Firewood cannot be had in sufficient quantity, furze being the principal fuel of the islanders, and is brought from a great distance by their slaves. Cabbages, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and other vegetables and fruits, thrive well, but are sold dear, and not in sufficient quantity to supply all the shipping which at times anchor here, to procure water and refreshments. Cattle are reared for the use of the Company's ships, and supplied to them very sparingly when a fleet arrives, the quantity reared not being adequate to the demand; a greater number, it appears, cannot be reared, for in very dry seasons the pasturage has been sometimes destroyed, and numbers of the cattle have died. The troops live mostly on salt provisions brought from England, and on fish, with which the shores abound. Poultry is generally dear, and frequently not to be had. A few hogs may at times be obtained at a high price, which, with a few bushels of potatoes,! are almost the only articles procurable when a fleet has recently departed, or is lying at the island. * Longwood, well known of late years as the last residence and burial place of Napoleon, has become fur- ther remarkable as the spot selected for one of the Magnetic Observatories which have recently been established, in connection with the scientific expedition now absent under the command of Captain James Clark Ross. t Most of the tropical fruits, as well as those found in Europe, thrive well in St. Helena. There is a valley near the south-east part of the island, having a run of water through it, which issues from the East side of Diana Peak. An orchard of apple "trees thrives here in a remarkable manner, the branches being loaded to the ground with fruit ; and on the same tree, the blossom is seen, and the apple in all the different stages, from its first formation till it is ripe and falling to the ground : some of these have a flavour equal to good English apples. The soil of this orchard is a rich black loam. On one side of this valley, the soil is ten or twelve ) James Town. EASTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. 41 During the time a ship or fleet remains at St. Helena, the passengers are entertained as boarders by the most respectable of the inhabitants, at thirty shillings per day for each person. Until lately, one guinea was the daily charge for each person. St. Helena observatory is stated by Mr. Johnson, the late resident astronomer, to be Observatory, in lat. 15° 55' 26" S., and in Ion. 5° 42' 30" W. ; by observations of moon culminating stars, compared with corresponding observations at Greenwich. Captain Foster, of H. M. S. Chanticleer, made the fort at James Town in lat. 15° 56' 7" S., and in Ion. 5° 40' 45" W. Captain Owen places James Town in lat. 15° 54f' S., and in Ion. 5° 44|' W. Captain Heywood measured 23° 37^' difference of longitude between it and Trinidad, and 19° 5|;' difference between Benguela and James Town, which would give about 5° 44^' W. for the latter, allowing Trinidad and Benguela to be in the longitudes as marked in Captain Owen's survey. Other navigators have made James Town in Ion. 5° 42' to 5° 48' W. by lunar observations and chronometers, measured from Ascension and other places. I made James Town in lat. 15° 55' S., and by means of 32 sets of O < * in Ion. 5° 36j' W.* Captain Mortlock, by many sets of lunar observations, made it rather less; and Captain, now Admiral, Krusenstern, the Russian circumnavigator, made the anchorage in lat. 15° 54' 48" S., Ion. 5° 35' 40"' W. Variation 17|^° West in 1815. Captain Foster made it 24|^° W. in 1829. Captain Fitz-Roy gives the variation 18° W. in 1836.t ABSTRACTS AND REMARKS, OIN PASSAGES TO AND FROM ST. HELENA. FIRST:— EASTERN PASSAGE. THE EAST-INDIA Company's ship Britannia, Nov. 11th, 1803, got soundings on the African coast, in lat. 29° N., Ion. 12° W. Here she was several days embar- rassed with south-westerly winds, in soundings and near the coast ; till in lat. 27° N., Ion. 13° 20' W. November 15th, lost sight of the land : the weather was unsettled, and a heavy swell prevailed near the coast. She passed between the island Fuerteven- tura and the main land, and between Cape de Verde and the islands of that name. November 25th, in lat. 13° N., Ion. 20° W., lost N.E. trade ; then ensued calms and faint 1803.4. southerly airs. December 28th, in lat. 4° 40' N., Ion. 9° 40' W., got soundings 43 ,^3ic"r fathoms on the coast of Guinea. At noon in 50 fathoms, lat. 4° 40' N., Ion. 9° 4' W. Coast. by lunars, and 8° 50' W. by chronometer. Calm and faint breezes continued, with a cur- rent to the northward, till January 1804, in lat. 3° 20' N., Ion. 1° 38' W. ; then a moderate S. W. breeze commenced, which carried her to lat. 1° N., Ion. 40° 30' E., feet deep, sloping down with a considerable declivity ; deep ravines are formed in it by the rains, which wash great part of it down into the valley. The gum tree is the only one in the island that appears indigenous ; several of these grow on the hills, and a copse of them is situated at the south-west part of the island. * It is with diffidence I have given the result of these observations, obtained by angular distances of the moon, sun, and stars, which appear to give the longitude about eight miles too far to the eastward ; and this was usually the case about that time (forty years ago), occasioned, most probably, by an error of the moon's place in the lunar tables ; nevertheless, there seems to be a probable uncertainty in the longitude of this, and several other places in the Southern Atlantic Ocean, as will be perceived by referring to the geographical situation of Rio Janeiro. t We understand that the Time Signal for rating Chronometers is still continued ; a ball being dropped at a building near Government House, at Noon St. Helena Mean Time, and also at one o'clock Greenwich Mean Time. G 42 EASTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. January 12. From hence, the wind continued between S. W. and S. by E. till in lat. 3° 6' S., Ion. 0° 30' E. on the 23d : had then a return of calms and faint airs ; the current set now to north-westward. With a moderate southerly breeze, on the 28th, stood to the W. S. W.and westward; it continued till February 1st, in lat. 7° S., Ion. 1° W,, and veered to S. S. E. and S. E. by S., a moderate trade, which continued till in lat. 24° S., Ion. 10" VV. February 15th. Had calms and faint airs till the 27th, in lat. 26° S., Ion. o° 46' VV., then a return of the trade, which enabled her to reach St. Helena 4th March. 1803. Passage east- ward of Cape de Verde Islands, and near the S. W. extremity of Africa, to St. Helena. 1 803. Eastern pas- sage to St. Helena. 1802. Passage east- ward of Cape de Verdes to St. Helena. 1802. Passage near the African Coast to St. Helejia. THE CITY OF LONDON left the Isle of Wight February 1st, 1803, passed to the westward of Madeira and Canary Islands ; then to the eastward of Cape de Verde Islands, on the meridian 19,V° W. in passing them. Lost the northerly winds February 20th, in lat. 7° 50' N., Ion."l0° 40' W. ; had then faint airs from the northward and westward, till in lat. 5° 20' N., Ion. 1 1° W., the 25th ; light S. W. and southerly airs then commenced, and increased to a moderate breeze when about 26 leagues southward from Cape Palmas, March 5th, which continued till in lat. 3° S., Ion. 5° 30' E., the 16th. Had then south-south-westerly breezes till the 27th, in lat. 7° S., Ion. 2° E., it veered to the south-south-eastward. Made two tacks afterwards and arrived at St. Helena the 3rd April. THE SKELTON CASTLE, Union in company, August 10th, 1803, in lat. 16° N., Ion. 25^° \Y., lost N. E. trade ; soon after had soutii-south-westerly winds. Stood on the starboard tack, and crossed the equator on the meridian of London, September 7th. Light south-south-westerly winds continued : tacked at times to the westward. On the 24th reached lat. 9°S., Ion. 9° E. The south-south-westerly winds continued till the 28th ; in lat. 11° S., Ion. 4° E., it veered gradually to S. by E., and S.S. E. ; stood on the larboard tack, and arrived October 1st at St. Helena : remained three days and tilled up the water, THE MINERVA, Lord Eldon in company, passed the Isle of Wight, June 18th, 1802 ; parted company July 4th, in lat. 22° N., Ion. 19° W., having passed to the west- ward of Palma. The Minerva passed to the eastward of Cape de Verde Islands, keeping in Ion. 19° W. at the time. Lost N. E. trade 7th July, in lat. 13° N., Ion. 19° 30' W. Had westerly winds till the 12th ; in lat. 7° N., Ion. 16° W., it veered to south-south-westward : stood on the starboard tack, and crossed the equator 25th July, in Ion. 4° E. Continued on this tack with steady breezes S. W. and S. S. W. till the 30th, in lat. 2° S., Ion. 8° E. ; had then calms and variable breezes at southward. Tacked occasionally. In lat. 4° 20' S., Ion. 8° E. August 6th, the wind steady at S. S. W. and S. W. by S., stood south-eastward till the 9th, in lat. 5° 22' S., Ion. 11° E. Tacked to westward : and on the 15th, in lat. 9° 30' S., Ion. 5° E., it veered to south- south-eastward. Arrived at St. Helena the 20th. THE LORD ELDON, after parting with the Minerva, July 4th, 1802, passed between St. Anthony and St. Vincent's : the channel appeared about five leagues wide, and very safe. She passed to the westward of the other islands, and lost the N. E. trade, July 1 1th, in lat. 1 1° 30' N., Ion. 23° W. S. W. and S. S. W. winds then commenced ; stood on the starboard tack, and crossed the equator 30th, in Ion. 4° 30' E. Stand- ing on south-eastward, saw the land August 3d, and thought it the island Anno Bona, being in its latitude. Bore away to pass to leeward of it, had regular soundings from EASTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. 43 13 to 10 fathoms; but the land opening as she stood to the northward, found it to be the main. By observations of < * nearly agreeing with three chronometers, this part of the coast of Africa is in lat. 1° 37' S., Ion. 9° 8' E. From hence with light S.W. and S.S.W. winds tacked at times. August 24th, in lat. 9° S., Ion. 1° E., it veered , gradually to south-south-eastward ; stood on the larboard tack, and arrived at St. Helena 30th.* THE ARNISTON left the Isle of Wight January 2nd, 1802, and passed to the east- i«o-', ward of the Cape de Verde Islands 20th,\eeping in Ion. 19° W. In lat. 7° N., Ion. 16° rard'olxTptde W., lost N.E. trade 24th, then calms and variable airs prevailed. On the equator, in Vcrde islands Ion. 3° W. February 15th, the wind commenced at south-westward, and continued '° '' '"""■ from S.W. to South with squalls at times, till in lat. 9° S., Ion. 1° E., March 5th, it veered to south-south-eastward ; stood S.W. and arrived at St. Helena 10th. From the equator this ship tacked frequently, in proceeding southward, and was never more to the eastward than 6° E. longitude. THE EARL SPENCER, with six ships in company, for Bengal, July 28th, 1800, ihck). lost N.E. trade, in lat. 16° 30' N., Ion. 26° W. ; had then light S.W. and S.S.W. ESan^'eaT breezes and calms. Stood mostly to south-eastward, and crossed the equator August ward of st. 26th, in Ion. 2° E. The south-south-westerly light winds continued, and veered gra- BengaK dually to South and S.S.E. on September 13th, in lat. 9° 40' S., Ion. 13° E; but did not get the steady south-easterly trade wind till in lat. 13° S., Ion. 5° E., September 23d. i THE GEORGINA, August 18th, 1798, left the Isle of Wight, lost N.E. trade, Sep- i-ss- tember 13th, in lat. 13° N., Ion. 18° W. On the 22nd, saw the coast of Africa, in lat.5°N., uTaA"'" and stood to the south-eastward with south-westerly winds. October 1st, at 8 a.m., the Coa*' '° ^t. _ - i"i pit? ni Island St. Thomas bore W. by S. 8 leagues; from hence lay up S. by E. ^ E., 84 miles, to 8 A.M. 2d, and made the Ion. 8° 14' E., by O C. Variation 21° W. October 3d, ob- served lat. 1° 9' S., and by account 1° 10' S., Ion. 9° 7' E., by O < *, the coast of Africa extending from N.W. by W. to S.E., distant from shore 3 leagues, in 15 fathoms regu- lar soundings. A heavy swell setting towards the land. October 4th, with the wind variable at westward, lay up S. by W. and S.S.W. along the coast, in regular soundings from 14 to 23 fathoms, off shore 3 or 4 leagues. At noon observed lat. 1° 52' S., Ion. 9° 33' E., by O C , distant from the shore 3 leagues. The extremes from N.E. byN.,to S.E. ^ E., in 23 fathoms, no current. South-westerly winds continued till October 18th, in lat. 8° S., Ion. 7° 30' E., then gradually veered to S. by W. and S. ; and shortly after to S. by E. and S.S.E. , as she stood to the westward. Arrived at St. Helena 26th. * The Minerva made a more direct course from the Cape de Verde Islands to the southward than the Lord Eldon, and gained on her 10 days in the passage, after separating; but the former had the advantage of superior sailing. t Three of these ships, the Melville Castle, Skelton Castle, and Travers, separated from the others in the night of the 13th of Sept., stood to the W.S. westward, and arrived at St. Helena 22d ; filled up their water, sailed 29th, and arrived in Bengal river Jan. 1st, 1801. The Spencer, Walsingham, Herculean, and Telli- cherry, arrived in that river Jan. 2d, very short of water and other necessaries of life ; their crews greatly de- bilitated by scurvy, having touched at no place during a six months' passage from the Lizard, from which they took a departure July 2d, 1800. In the Anna from China, we found these ships off the Sand Heads in dis- tress, and furnished them with water and other refreshments, and several men to assist them ia working into the river. The other three ships, by procuring a plentiful supply of water at St. Helena, prevented the scurvy; and reached Bengal river one day before their consorts. G 2 ( 44 EASTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. 1799. Passage near the African Coast to St. Helena. Shoal near St. Thomas Is- land. THE GLATTON passed Portland April 3d, 1799, and lost N.E. trade May 4th, in lat. 6° N., Ion. 18° VV. Had then light airs and calms ; S.S. Westerly breezes fol- lowed and continued at S.W. and S.S.W. June 3d at noon, Prince's Island E.N.E. about ten leagues, and three small islands from E. by N. to E. by S., the nearest dis- tance about four leagues. Observed lat. 1° 16' N., Ion. 5° 53' E. by chronometer. June 5th, at noon, extremes of the Island St. Thomas, N.W. | N. to S.S.W., oft' shore about 9 miles. Observed lat. 0° 20' N. Saw a ship and two brigs at anchor in shore. June 6th, S.S. Westerly winds working to windward to pass to the East side of the island ; kept the lead going in standing towards it after dark, had 24 fathoms, tacked, and struck on a shoal in stays ; hove all aback, and got off without damage. Find- ing a strong westerly current, bore away to leeward of the island. At midnight it bore from S.E. by E. to S.W. by W. : at day-light from S.E. to S.S.W., distant 4 leagues : at noon, S. | E. to E.S.E., observed lat. 0° 15' N. S.S. Westerly winds continued. June 9th, saw at 6 a.m. very low land from E. i S., to S.E. by E., stood E.S.E. 1 S. 8 miles, had ground 52 fathoms mud, and tacked. At noon, observed lat. 0° 33' S., Ion. 8° 40' E. by chronometer, the land bearing East seen from mast-head. June 10th, at sun-set, in 27 and 28 fathoms, the southern extreme of the land S. by E. i E, Variable winds and a strong northerly current. June 12th, observed lat. 9° A' S., Ion. 8° 15' E., south-south-westerly winds: found the current set W. by S.^S. 1^ miles per hour. June 13th, at day-light, the land of Cape Lopez from S.S.E. to E.S.E. , no ground 40 fathoms. Stood W. 10 miles to noon. Observed lat. 0°42' S., Ion. 8° 22' E. by chronometer. Variation per azimuth, 25° W. The south-south-westerly winds continued till 27th, in lat. 7° 30' S., Ion. 5° E., they veered to the South and S.S.E., stood to the S.W., and arrived at St. Helena 5th July. Passa?toSt ^HE GEORGINA left the Lizard February 25th, 1796, and lost N.E. trade, He'ienlT, a°t a' Mai'ch 18th, iu lat. 10° N., lon. 18° W. She had then variable light winds South-wes- tHrAfrlcar terly, and northerly currents to the equator, crossed it April 15th, in lon. 3° E. April Coast. i6tb, a brisk IN. N.W. breeze placed her in lat. 1°25'S. The south-south-westerly winds returned, and continued between S.S.W. and S. by E., till the 15th, in lat. 5° 26' S., lon. 3° E. She tacked to the south-westward, and on this tack with S.S.E. and S.E. winds, arrived at &. Helena 2d of May. PassagM^'othe THE CARNATIC and fleet, bound to China, left the Lizard August 16th, 1796. eastward of St. Lost N.E. trade, September 5th, in latitude 11° 0' N., lon. 23° W. Stood to the S.E. with south-south-westerly winds, and crossed the equator, September 19th, in lon. 5° W. ; the same winds continued. On the 2d October, at noon, lat. 8° 52' S., lon. 11° 40' E. The wind veered to S. by W., October 9th, in lat. 11° S., lon. 8° E., stood to the west- ward. On the 15th, in lat. 16° 14' S., lon. 0° 30' W., bore away for St. Helena, to fill up the water, and anchored 17th. compLTiive THE QUEEN parted with Carnatic and fleet, September 16th, in lat. 2° 30' N., passagesofthe lou. 9° W. At noon the 25th, observed lat. 1°31'S., lon. 5° 16' E., by chronometer. Queen and the ^|^g Island Auuo Boua bearing from E. by N. to E. by S., distant 4 or 5 leagues. Tacked, there being an appearance of shoal water, and low land projecting from tlie island. Had mostly south-westerly winds from losing the N.E. trade, veering at times to southward; these continued till October 9th, in lat. 8° S., lon. 3° E., then veered to S. by E. and S.S.E. Arrived at St. Helena 16th. ^ EASTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. 45 THE SWALLOW left Lizard Point January 3d, 1795, lost N.E. trade 29th, in nss. lat. 101° N., Ion. 18° W. After passing in sight of the Canary Islands to the westward, HeTenl!!."^'' had constant N.W. and westerly winds, obliged to pass to the eastward of Cape de Verde waking in the Islands. The south-westerly winds commenced at the failure of the N.E. trade, but °p^" *^''" frequently inclined to vary several points. Crossed the equator February 13, in Ion. 8° W. On the 24th, in lat. 4° S., Ion. 2° 30' E., the wind veered to S. by E. From hence stood mostly to the S.W. till March 8th, in lat. 18° 30' S., Ion. 8° W., made then several tacks, and arrived 14th at St. Helena. THE DUKE OF BUCCLEUGH left Porto Praya April 18th, 1794, lost N.E. p.J^.^^su trade 20th, in lat. 11° 30' N., Ion. 19° W., then had north-westerly and faint variable Heiena.near' airs till May 6th, in lat. 5° 30' N. saw the African Coast bearing from E. by S. to N.E. eo!st/lnd"ihe by N., distant 6 or 7 leagues, in 55 fathoms green ooze. Had now south-westerly and island Anno southerly light breezes, and saw the land daily till the 10th, in lat. 5° N.; the current ^°"'' set to the northward : with south-westerly light winds, crossed the equator 28th, and saw the Island Anno Bona the 3 1st. Was baffled near this island several days by southerly winds. June 3d, observed, lat. 1° 19' S. Anno Bona from S. 24° E. to S. 50° E., a white rock to the southward S. 18° E., and a small isle to the northward S.53° E., distance from the shore 5 or 6 miles. June 4th, at noon, observed, lat. 1° 19' S. Anno Bona W. i N. 5 or 6 leagues. Variation 18^° W. In lat. 3° 30' S. tacked to S.W. with the wind at S. and S. by E., and reached St. Helena 19th, without tacking. THE NANCY, December 30lh, 1793, left the Lizard; passed to the eastward of pJ^g^'Jli,„ the Cape de Verde Islands, January 18th, 1794. Lost N.E. trade 21st, in lat. 10° 30' N., the s.'w.coast and had ground 63 fathoms same time on the African Coast: had now light N.W, Helena*'" ^'" winds. In lat. 6° N. saw the land in 40 fathoms. January 31st, passed Cape Palmas at 7 miles distance; the wind then veered to S.W. Variation \9^° W. With S.W. winds, crossed the equator February 6th, which at times veered to westward. In lat. 6° S. February 13th, the wind S.S.W. and S. by W. Tacked to the westward. It veered to south-south-eastward, in lat. 8° S. on the 17th. Arrived at St. Helena 28th, without tacking. THE ROYAL CHARLOTTE left the Start Point December 30th, 1792; January ^ '"s- "^ 28th, 1793, passed to the eastward of Cape de Verde Islands. The rigging covered with «ardofCapede brownish dust, and the clouds came from south-westward in opposition to the trade wind. Lost N.E. trade, February 1st, in lat. 8° 30' N., Ion. 16° 12' W. Had then north- westerly and light variable breezes. At 2 p.m. the 8th, saw the Grain Coast, N.E. j N. At 4 P.M. extremes from N.N.E. to East, distant 5 leagues, in 36 fathoms. At noon, observed lat. 4° 53' N., Ion. 9° 0' W. by chronometers, extremes of the coast from North to E. ^ S., vessels at anchor in Settra Krow Road, N.E. by E., offshore 4 leagues in 40 fathoms. The current set south-easterly, these last 6 days. From hence steered S.E. 11 miles to 6 p.m. 9th, the coast then from N.W. | W. to E.S.E. a vessel at anchor off a rocky point with breakers, like the entrance of a river, N.E. ^ E. off shore 4 leagues, in .36 fathoms. The weather hazy and the coast very low. At noon observed lat. 4° 36' N., Ion. 8° 25' W. by chronometers, Niffou N. 1° E. Village of Little Sesters N. 60° E., offshore 3 leagues in 37 fathoms. Variation 17° W. Being nearly calm in the night, drifted into 17 and 15 fathoms sand, heard the surf on the shore and j)re- pared to anchor; but a land breeze commenced at 3 a.m., stood out S.S.W. and soon deepened. Verde Islands to St. Helena. i 46 EASTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. Grain Coast. Cape Pulmas. Cape Lopez, and coast to Angola. February 10th, John George, master of the Brig Queen Charlotte, came on board. He is an experienced coaster, and advises falling in with the land about Cape Palmas, and by no means to the westward of it ; as the land winds are generally very faint, and if the sea wind prove scant, a ship will receive little benefit from it ; there is also a constant indraught which sets towards the shore, which we experienced last night. He says. Cape Palmas should not be rounded nearer than 28 fathoms ; it is very woody, and from this depth no appearance of a town is perceived on it. The coast from Cape Palmas to Cape Three Points is clear of danger, and the anchorage good. At 6 p.m. the town Grand Sesters, N.N.E. | E., distant about 3 miles, in 30 fathoms. The chronometers make it in Ion. 8° 11' VV., the lat. is 4° 39' N. by noon observation. February 11th, by observations at noon, make Cape Palmas in lat. 4° 39' N., Ion. 7° 41' W. by chronometers. Left Cape Palmas February 12th, had S. westerly and N. easterly currents till the 16th; the latter abated in strength, and set to the westward of •N. for 3 days. On the 21st, with S.W. winds, passed to the eastward of St. Thomas. The chronometers made the North end of this island in Ion. 6° 37' E. ; had still northerly currents. February 24th, spoke the Margery of Liverpool; Thomas Oliver, master, says, Cape Lopez is low, and extends far out to seaward ; it makes in a low point, and is seen before the back land. All the coast is rather low, but clear up to Angola, and may with safety be borrowed on in the night to 15 fathoms. F'ebruary 25th, in lat. 2° 7' S., Ion. 9° 0' E. by chronometers, had ground 45 fathoms, and saw the appearance of land. March 3d, in lat. 5° 40' S., Ion. 9° E., tacked to westward ; the south-westerly winds continued four days, veering to southward on the 8th and 9th, in lat. 11° S. On the nth, in lat. 13° S., it veered to S. by E. and S.S.E. Anchored 13th at St. Helena. 1792. Passage by working in the open sea. to St. Helena. THE VALENTINE left the Isle of Wight March 9th, 1792, and passed on the East side of Palma, and to the westward of Ferro on the 20th. On the 25th and 26th kept in Ion, 19° to 19^° W. in passing to the eastward of Cape de Verde Islands. Lost the northerly winds the 31st, in lat. 7° 30' N., Ion. 14^° W. ; had then calms and light south- westerly breezes. Crossed the equator April 25th, in Ion. 1° 30' E. From lat. 4° N. to 2° N. the current set eastward. From the equator the wind was mostly from S.S.W. and S. by W. veering to S. by E. and S.S.E. at times. Worked to the southward till May 3d, in lat. 4° S., Ion. 5° 30' E., then with a S.S.E. wind stood to south-westward, and arrived 11th at St. Helena. 1791-2. Passage to the eastward of Cape de Verde Islands to St. Helena. THE OCEAN, December 20th, 1791, left the Start Point; Jan. 11th, lost N.E. trade, in lat. 8° 40' N., Ion. 17° W. From hence had light variable winds all round, and calms with south-easterly currents at times, and during two nights much thunder and lightning. On the 20th, saw the land ; at noon the extremes from Cape Mesu- rado N. 58° E. to N. 81° E., distance off the Cape about 9 leagues. No ground 120 fathoms. Lat. observed, 6° 7' N., Ion. 11° 0' W. by chronometer, and 10° 50' W. by O 3), which mean will place the Cape in Ion. 10° 35' W., and in about lat. 6° 27' N. from its bearing at noon. Saw yesterday several drifts and sea-weed, but no birds of any kind. January 21st, the mean of observations OD and chronometer this day, makes Cape Mesurado in Ion. 10° 36' W. At midnight had ground 47 to 50 fathoms. At noon the land in sight from the top E.N.E. observed, lat. 5° 24' N., Ion. 10° 0' W. by mean O D and chronometer. No ground 90 fathoms. Steered S.S.E. | E. 46 miles to 4 A.M, and had ground 48 fathoms. From the course steered, did not expect to be so near land. For some days past, the wind has been mostly westerly and N.W. ; it \ WESTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. 47 now inclines from S.W. January 24th, mostly calm ; but 10 a.m. a tornado squall blew strong for a short time with thunder, lightning, and rain. Faint south-westerly breezes, and generally N.E. currents prevailed, tilfin lat. 2° N., Ion. o°W., 30th, the latter began to set. North-westward, and light breezes continued mostly from S.S.W. to South. Crossed the equator, February 9th, in Ion. 1° E., had then a weak current to westward. In lat. 5° 40' S., Ion. 6° 30' E., on the 1 8th, the wind veered to South and S. by E., tacked to south-westward, and with a S.S.E. trade most of the way, arrived 28th at St. Helena. THE VANSITTART, February 22d, 1821, left the Lizard, got N.E. trade 2d Passage by March, in lat. 28° N. Crossed the equator in Ion. 3° 45' E., touched at Anno Bona ^""° ^''"'■ May 3d, left it next day, and arrived at St. Helena 23d May, being 92 days from England.* SECOND:— WESTERN PASSAGE. THE ARNISTON and fleet lost N.E. trade, April 27th, 1795, in lat. 4° N., Ion. 1795. 18° W., had S.W. and S.S.W. winds till May 5th, in lat. 1°S., Ion. 15° W., and got HXIV-ifh': the S.E. trade next day. She parted with the fleet, and was never to the westward of out eoing far to Ion. 25° W., nor to the southward of lat. 25° S., and arrived June 2nd at St. Helena, ^''southward. THE DART, September 26, 1794, got westerly and S.W. winds in lat. 9° N., Ion. p^J^.^fith 21° W. ; these continued till Oct. 6th, in lat. 1° N., Ion. 13° W., then veered to S.S.E., ouTgfngL" stood to the south-westward. In lat. 20 S., Ion. 10° W., tacked to eastward on the 21st, rotuharthe ^" in lat. 14° S., Ion. 10° W., tacked to southward, in lat. 17° S., Ion. 10° 30' W., tacked to tropicof clpri- the eastward the 28th ; afterwards, made various tacks between 15° and 19° S. lat. and '^'""" reached St. Helena Nov. 8th, having never been more westward than 16° 50' west lon- gitude, during the passage from the equator to the island. THE MARQUIS OF ELY left the Isle of Wight February 13th, 1802, lost N.E. „ '^of trade March 12th, in lat. 4° N., Ion. 22° W.,and got S.E. trade 21st, in lat. 2°S., Ion. fouTeTosffre! 24° W. In standing across the trade, went not to the westward of Ion. 29° W. On '^X^^^°^^' the 4th of April, the most southerly position was in lat. 29° S., Ion. 21° W., and arrived the 19th at St. Helena. THE PRINCESS MARY left the Lizard Sept. 12th, 1801, with a fleet, and lost p^Jg^"'^; the N.E. trade Oct. 9th, in lat. 21° N., Ion. 26° W.; separated from the fleet and got goingfarsouth- the S.E. trade 30th, in lat. 1°S., Ion. 19° W.; lost S.E. trade Nov. 9th, in lat. 18° S., "'"^''• Ion. 35° W., had then light variable easterly winds till in lat. 31° S., Ion. 1 1° W. on the 21st, then N.E. and northerly winds. In lat. 32° S., Ion. 9° W., on the 25th, stood northward, and arrived Dec. 2d at St. Helena. THE HUGH INGLIS, with a fleet, left the Start Point May 4th, 1800; lost N.E. isoo. trade, June 1st, in lat. 10° N., Ion. 25° W., and got the S.E. trade 10th, in lat. 2°N., s^Sld'o Ion. 28° W. Separated with the fleet, went to lat. 33° S., and arrived August 14th at st.Hekna. St. Helena. * Tlie Waterloo left the Downs two days before the Vansittart ; she pursued the Western Route, and ar- rived at St. Helena. May 3rd, making a quicker passage than the latter by 18 days. 48 WESTERN PASSAGE TO ST. HELENA. isoo. THE ARNISTON left Portland January 8tli, 1800, lost N.E. trade February uUMr/ckTo 13th, in lat. G°N., Ion. 21° W., and got S.E. trade 27th, in lat. 1° N., Ion. 21° W. Went to lat. 29° S., and arrived April 4th at St. Helena. I'assage reg St. Helena. 1799-1800. THE PRINCESS MARY left Portland November 19th, 1799, lost N.E. trade fornhfard'to December 13th, in lat. 6° N., Ion. 21° 30' W., and got S.E. trade 17th, in lat. 4° N., st^Hliena. Ion. 22° W. Between lat. 27° and 31° S. had calms and light winds, did not exceed lat. 31°S.,and arrived January 29tb, 1800, at St, Helena. IT 99. Passage far southward to St. Helena. THE LORD HAWKESBURY left Portland April 25th, 1799, lost N.E. trade May 19th, in lat. 7° 30' N., Ion. 18° W. ; on the 30th was in lat. 3° N., Ion. 5° 30' W., and got S.E. trade June 9th, on the equator, in Ion. 14° "W., July 25th, in lat. 31° 50' S., Ion. 10° W., had calms and light airs several days, stood to the north-eastward with variable breezes till in the S.E. trade, and arrived August 10th at St. Helena. 1798. THE TELLICHERRY, June Uth, 1798, left the Lizard, lost N.E. trade Passage nearly gQjj^ j^ j^j j.jo ]\ lo^. 26° W., got S.E. trade July 10th, in lat. 3° N., Ion. 24° W. Aug:ust 8th ; the most southerly position was lat. 30° S., Ion. 22° W.; arrived 18th at St. Helena. frequented route to St. Helena. 1796. THE CANTON left the Lizard April 15th, 1796, lost N.E. trade May 7th, in Passage to the j^t. 13° N., lou. 19° 30' W., having passed to the eastward of Cape de Verde Islands; caprdeVerdes got S.E. trade 23d, in lat. 0°3'S.,lon. 24° W. Three days previous to crossing the to St. Helena, gquator had strong westerly currents, on it they changed, and set strong to N.E. three days. In lat. 25° S., Ion. 21° W., June 11th, with westerly winds, steered east; in lat. 23° S., Ion. 11° W., the 15th, got easterly winds, then variable at N.E. and northward till in lat. 21° S., Ion. 7° W., on the 20th, the S.E. trade returned, and arrived the 23d at St. Helena. 1815. THE CERES, bound to St. Helena, crossed the equator the 7th May, 1815, in Ion. Passage by the 20° 20' W., having lost N.E. trade in lat. 5° N., Ion. 19° W., and got the S.E. trade in western route ' o ' ' o to St. Helena, lat. 0° 40' S. Went not farther West than Ion. 25°, when in lat. 19° 20' S. on the 15th. Here the wind veered to East and N.E., with which stood to S.E. and E.S.E., the winds drawing to North, N.W., and West, as we ran to the eastward. On the 23d, was in lat. 22° 15' S., Ion. 10° W., and was never farther South ; from hence steered E.N.E. to Ion. 7^° W. with W.N.W. and W. winds, then steered N.N.E., got the S.E. trade wind again in lat. 19° S., nearly on the meridian of St. Helena, and arrived on the 28th, having 21 days' passage from the equator. 1815. Western pas- sage to St. Helena. THE HEREFORDSHIRE, bound to St. Helena, crossed the equator the same day as the Ceres, on the 7th May, 1815, in Ion. 22° 7' W., and on the 15th was in lat. 17° 15' S., Ion. 27° 25' W., being her farthest westerly position ; with N.E., northerly, and S.S.E. winds, she steered first S.E. then East, nearly on the parallel of lat. 20° S. till in Ion. 15° W. on the 24th. Here she got a return of the S.E. trade-wind, and steered to the southward and S.S.E. till in lat. 28° 30' S., Ion. 11° W. on the 1st June, from whence she steered E.N.E. to Ion. 7^° W. with northerly winds, then N.N.E., and got the S.E. trade again in lat. 26° S., and arrived at St. Helena 8th, having a pas- sage of 32 days from the equator, or 11 days longer than the Ceres. PASSAGES TO AND FROM ST. HELENA COMPARED. 49 THIRD:— COMPARATIVE VIEW OF PASSAGES TO AND FROM ST. HELENA. BY these examples of ships which have gone by the eastern and western routes to winter favour- St. Helena, combined with other information, it appears that the eastern route might easternVomc. be adopted in November, December, January, February, and sometimes in March. If a ship bound to St. Helena cross the equator in any of these months, and find the winds incline from south-westward, by standing to S. E., across the Gulf of Guinea, close on a wind, and afterwards tacking as it veers to the eastward or westward of South, she may probably reach St. Helena nearly as soon as if she had proceeded by the western route. From the time of losing the N. E. trade, about 40 to 44 days to St. Helena may be con- sidered a medium passage by the eastern route in these months, but the Swallow made it in 31 days. From the southern limit of the N. E. trade, the passage by the western route is seldom accomplished in less than 40 days. By this route 43 days seems about the medium passage, and during any month of the year it may be made in this time from the situation mentioned. The Arniston made it in 36 days in May, but she did not go more South than lat. 25° S. ; and the Ceres made it in 21 days from the equator, not going beyond lat. 22° 15' S. When the sun has great North declination, the eastern route seems precarious ; and the other is more certain at all times. A ship that sails indifferently close hauled, or in light winds, should not attempt the eastern route in this season; but one that slides fast through the water in faint breezes, and holds a good wind, may probably proceed by the eastern route in any season with safety. The Bri- tannia's passage of 95 days in the favourable season, from the southern limit of the N. E. trade to St. Helena, by the eastern route, is a singular case,* It has been the practice with ships going the western route to run far South, sometimes to lat. 32° and 33° S. ; this can seldom be requisite, as it lengthens the passage; the ships which have not pro- ceeded so far South have generally made the best passages to St. Helena. From St. Helena to England, the medium passage with a fleet is generally about two st. Helena to months, or seven weeks in a single ship that sails well. Engan . From this island to the Cape of Good Hope the passage is about a month. The ToCapeof Georgina was 26 days making it in November 1798; in February 1799, she was 28 ^ood Hope. days, and in April and May, 32 days completing the same passage. From Cape of Good Hope to St. Helena, the passage may be estimated at 13 days; From the Cape it is frequently performed in 10, and has been accomplished in 8 or 9 days. "**'■ ^^'^"*- The Georgina departed from St. Helena September 18th, 1806, and carried the trade st. Helena to and north-easterly winds to lat. 30° S., Ion. 49° W. On the 13th October she entered "^aThfca'pe the River Plate, and grounded on the banks, nearly in sight of Buenos Ayres, on the of Good Hope. 19th, but soon got off without damage, the bank where she grounded being soft mud. She got clear off the River Plate on the 21st October, and arrived at Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope, Nov. 24th, and gave intelligence of the re-capture of Buenos Ayres. THE GEORGINA left St. Helena May 22d, 1805. In lat. 27° S., Ion. 6° W. the st. Helena .o 30th, got the wind at northward and N. E, three days, steered E. by S, June 2d, in femra^''*" lat. 26° S., Ion. 3° E., it veered to W. S, W. and S. W., and continued till in lat. 20^ S., Ion. &° E. the 6th, it then veered to south-eastward. June 9th, at 7 p.m., heard the surf • The Vansittart's passage of 92 days from England to St. Helena, in March, April, and May, by the eastern route, was also very tedious. H I 50 PASSAGES TO AND FROM ST. HELENA COMPARED. and saw breakers on the lee-beam, hauled off N.E. ; shortly after saw the land bearing S. S. E. and sounded in 38 fathoms sand. At daylight the land from S. | E. to E.S.E., offshore 5 leagues in 52 fathoms. At noon the high land from N. E. by E. to S.S.W., a remarkable hill like a Turk's cap, supposed to be Mount Negro, E. S. E., oiF shore 7 or 8 miles, in 45 fathoms, sand, coral, and shells, observed lat. 15° 30' S. Ion., by d O 12° 28' E. June 10th, steered along shore mostly N.E. and N. E. by E., with light westerly winds and hazy weather. At sun-set the coast from S. W. by S. to N. by £., off shore 6 or 7 miles ; shortly after had 19 fathoms mud, steering N. E. by E. At 10 A. M. Tiger Bay, S. S. E. ^ E., and a large bay open S. by E., offshore 7 or 8 miles. June 11th, light winds from S. W. to West and cloudy weather ; at sun-set a bluff point S. E. by S. ; a remarkable high round hill S. by E., off shore about 7 miles ; at noon, lat. observed 13° 7' S., account 13° 8' S. June 12th, light westerly winds and fine weather, hove to in the night; at 8 A. m. St. Philip's Bonnet E. by S. ^ S. 3 or 4 leagues ; at noon, lat. 12° 33' S., St. Philip's Point S. E. :| E. 2 leagues, the extremes of the land from E. N. E. to W. S. W. ^ S. off shore about 4 miles ; p. m. steered S. E. by E. into the bay : at 3, the master attendant came on board, and at 4 anchored and moored in Benguela Bay in 10 fathoms, with the best bower to seaward, TheGeorgina received 84 bullocks, sailed June 21st, and had light winds from west- ward near the land ; stood to the westward on the 22d, with a fresh breeze at S.W. : it continued at S. W. by S. and S. S. W, till in lat. 13° S., on the 26th, veered then to S. by W. and to South on the following day. June 28th, in lat. 15° 30' S., Ion. 2° 30' W., it veered to S. by E. : arrived the 29th at St. Helena. Georgina, September 15th, 1805, left St. Helena. In lat. 21° S., with southerly and light variable winds the 18th, stood east-north-eastward : in lat. 12° S., Ion. 7° E., on the 29th, they veered to South and S.S. W., moderate and light breezes, which con- tinued till she arrived, October 4th, at Benguela. Sailed from hence the 22d, had the wind mostly at West and W. S. W., often variable, till in lat. 10° 30' S., Ion. 7° 30' E., the 26th : it veered to S. W., next day to S. S. W. and South fresh breezes and squally. From the 26th to the 30th it blew strong from S. by W. to S. by E. ; afterwards it continued steady at S. by E., arrived at St. Helena November 1st, having experienced a confused head-sea great part of the passage. 51 WEST COAST OF AFRICA AND ADJACENT ISLANDS, WITH THE WINDS AND CURRENTS COASTS AND ISLANDS. HEADLANDS or ISLANDS on the West coast of Africa, and in the Gulf of Guinea, are sometimes seen by East-India ships proceeding by the eastern route to St. Helena, and the geographical positions of the following have been ascertained during the surveys which have been successively conducted by Captains Owen, Boteler, Yidal, and others, between the years 1820 and 1838. CAPE NOON, lat. 28° 45' N., Ion. IT 3' W. FALSE CAPE BAJADOR, or BOJADOR, lat. 26" 25' N., Ion. 14° 8' W. CAPE BAJADOR, lat. 26° 7' N., Ion. 14° 29' W. SEVEN CAPES (Centre one), lat. 24° 41' N., Ion. 15° Oi' W. CINTRA REEF, lat. 23° 6' 20" N„ Ion. 16° 13' W. RIVER OURO, South point of Peninsula, forming mouth, lat. 23° 37' N., Ion. 16° 1' W. CAPE BARBAS, lat. 22° 20' N., Ion. 16° 45' W. PEDRA DE GALHA, lat. 22° 13' N., Ion. 16° 45' W. CAPE CORVOEIRO, lat. 21° 47' N., Ion. 17° 0' W.* CAPE BLANCO, South point, lat. 20° 46' N., Ion. Position of 1 7° 5' W. Headlands, &i-. CAPE DE VERDE, lat. 14° 45' N., Ion. 17° 33' W. GOREE, Fort Flag Staff, lat. 14° 40' N., Ion. 17° 24' 30" W. CAPE NAZE, lat. 14° 33' N.. Ion. 17° 7' W. JOAL TOWN, lat. 14° 11' N., Ion. 16° 52' W. BIRD ISLAND, River Gambia, Flagstaff, lat. 13° 39' N., Ion. 16° 40J' W. CAPE ST. MARY, River Gambia, ditto, in lat. 13° 301' N., Ion. 16°41|' W. CAPE REXO, or ROXO, lat. 12° 20' N.,lon. 16° 46' W. ; and 16 leagues to the Bis,agosis. south-south-eastward, off the mouths of the Jeba and Rio Grande, lies the nearest '^"''' island of the group, called the Bissagos or Bijougas, which consists of more than 20 islands, encircled by shoals. SIERRA LEONE CAPE, extreme, lat. 8° 30' N., Ion. 13° 18' W. FREE TOWN CITADEL, lat. 8°29f' N., Ion. 13° 14^' W. ST. ANN SHOALS front that part of the coast to the southward of Sierra Leone, st. Ann which is comprehended between Cape Shilling and Sherboro Island. They extend ■^'"'*''' between 30 and 40 miles from Cape St. Ann, their western boundary being the meri- dian of 13° 30' W. The current, although westerly outside, sets sometimes very strong * This name in Capt. W. F. W. Owen's survey is given to a Cape in lat. 21° 13y' N. H 2 i 52 WEST COAST OF AFRICA AND ISLANDS. Cape St. Ann. Cape Mesu- rada. Cape Palmas. Capt' Coast. Three Points. St. Paul. Cape Formosa, Fernando Po. Princes Is- land. to the eastward in the neighbourhood of these shoals, rendering much caution neces- sary in approacliing this part of the coast during the night, or in thick weather. CAPE ST. ANN, the western extreme of Sherboro Island, is in lat. 7° 34' N., Ion. 12° o7' W., having off it a group of islands called the Turtle Islands. The bank on which these islands are placed is connected with the shoals just described. CAPE MENSURADO, or MESURADA, lat. 6° 26' N., Ion. 10° 49' W., is high ; and from Cape de Verde to this part of the Coast of Guinea, soundings extend to a con- siderable distance from the land. CAPE PALMAS, lat. 4° 22' N., Ion. T 44' W., is rather low, like most parts of the Coast of Guinea, and it should not be rounded under 28 fathoms. Variation 20° 0' W. (1836.) High water at full, and change at 6 h. 30 in. Rise of tide 6 feet. CAPE COAST CASTLE FLAGSTAFF, lat. 5° 6' 5" N., Ion. 1° 13' 40" W. CAPE THREE POINTS, Centre cape, lat. 4° 45' N., Ion. 2° 6' W. CAPE ST. PAUL, the western extremity of the Bight of Benin, lat. 5° 48' N., Ion. 0° 56' E. CAPE FORMOSA, in lat. 4° 15' N., Ion. 6° 10' E., is the point which separates the Bights of Benin and Biafra. It is very low, and is no distinct cape, being merely the most prominent part of tiiat projecting land which is intersected by the numerous streams forming the delta of the Quorra or Niger. The coast from Cape Formosa ex- tends 53 leagues E. ^ N. in nearly a direct line to the head of the Bight of Biafra, where it turns S.E. and South, forming its eastern side. FERNANDO PO ISLAND is in the middle of the Bight of Biafra, distant 19 miles from the main land, and about 13 or 14 leagues West of the mouth of the great River Camaroons; the summit of the Peaked Mountain, at its N.E. extremity, is about 10,000 feet high ; and this island is about 40 miles in length and 20 miles in breadth, or 30 leagues in circuit, inhabited by negroes ; it is well watered, abounding with excellent yams, sugar-cane, and fruits. Maidstone Bay anchorage is in lat. 3° 45^' N., Ion. 8° 45' E. N.E. point of the island, lat. 3° 451' ]\., ion. 8° 53' E. West point, lat. 3° 21^' N., Ion. 8° 25' E. South point, lat. 3° 10' N., Ion. 8° 40^' E., by the survey of Captain Owen. PRINCES ISLAND (Fort St. Antonio), in lat. 1° 39' N., Ion. 7° 26' E., by Capt. Boteler, is about 40 leagues N.W. of Cape St. John, and about the same distance to the S.W. of Fernando Po. It is high, with the town and harbour of St. Antonio on the N.E. side, where bullocks, hogs, goats, and water, may be procured. The harbour is tolerably secure, with depths from 10 to 3 fathoms, but it is exposed to tornadoes. There are several rocks and islets in the neighbourhood, the principal of which are the Pedra de Galle, about If miles N.W. by N. from the North point of tiie island ; Dia- mond Rocks half a mile E.N.E. from Port Mosteoros, the northern point of San An- tonio Bay ; Carocha Island, or Dutchman's Cap, 1^ miles S.S.E. irom the South point of the island, and the Brothers from 11 to 13 miles S.W. by S. of the same point. Variation 20° W. in 1829. ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF GUINEA. 53 ST. THOMAS ISLAND, situated 43 leagues N.W. of Cape Lopez, is about 20 st. ihomas. leagues in circuit, of an oval form, its North extremity being in hit. 0° 24' N., Ion. (i° 38' E., andthe islet off its South extremity being on tiie equator. This island belongs to the Portuguese, and affords some articles of refreshment for ships touching at the bays on tiie north-eastern part, tlie chief of which are Man of War Bay and Santa Anna de Chaves Bay ; the former is more properly a Road. The siiore to the northvt'ard of Anna de Chaves Bay being rocky and steep, should have a wide berth in passing. Tiie small islet of Cabras lies between these anchorages, at the distance of 1;^ miles from the shore, having a channel of 2^ fathoms inside it. There is also a 3^ fathoms hank a little more than a mile from the shore and parallel to it. It is 2 miles in length from North to South. Its South extreme bears about N.E. from Fort San Sebastian. The Chesterfield grounded on this bank Sept. 18th, 1781. Variation in 1829 was 20° 45' VV. The anchorage in Man of War Bay is in 10 or 12 fathoms good holding ground, Man of War and in the Tornado season is preferable to that of Anna de Chaves on account of the ^"^^ facility of getting to sea with the wind at N.E., from which quarter the Tornadoes blow. To approach Anna de Chaves Bay, it is better to proceed round by the South end of Sama Annade the island, because tlie current sets mostly to the northward, and the winds prevail from ^'"'™' ^^''' southward. The shore to the southward of tlie fort can be approached with greater safety than to the northward, but not under the distance of H miles, until the fort is brought to bear W. by N. The lead is no guide in turning in from the northward, because from no ground a ship may have 12 fathoms, and be aground before another cast of the lead can be hove.* ANNO-BON, OR ANNO-BONA, the North point of which is in lat. 1° 24' S., Anno-Bon. Ion. 5° 37' E.,is distant about 60 leagues westward from Cape Lopez. It is about 4 miles in length and 2 in breadth, rising in two high hills, the summits of which are often clouded, and on one of them there is said to be a lake of pure water. This island is refreshed by constant breezes, which render it healthy ; it abounds with tropical fruits, domestic animals, and poultry ; the inhabitants are negroes of the Roman Ca- tholic faith, converted by the Portuguese, but very ignorant. The best anchorage. is at the N.E. part of the island, where is a village : on the West side, the appearance of shoal water projecting from some low land was seen by the Queen in passing. Variation 21° 6' W. in 1829. The Vansittart, Captain Clarence Dalrymple, on the 3d of May 1821, at 5 p.m. anchored at Anno-Bona, in ll^ fathoms rocky bottom, with a conspicuous peak in the centre of the island bearing W. ^ S., off shore about | of a mile. The late Captain Boteler, R.N., says, the bank of soundings shelves suddenly, and recommends not to anchor in less depth than 17 fathoms, with a remarkable peak, S.S.W. }^ W., about i a mile off shore. Ships touching here should keep the lead going, the soundings being very irregular with great overfalls from 19 to 11, then 3^ fathoms. Although the Vansittart lay in 11 i fathoms, a small anchor was necessary to steady her and keep the bower anchor clear, for half a cable's length in shore there was only ^ less 3 fathoms, rocks. The watering place is above a small rivulet to the S.W. of the vil- lage, and the process of getting water tedious, being first taken up in buckets and passed to the casks on the beach, and they must be warped off, as a heavy surf sets constantly upon the shore. The natives, although not strictly honest in their dealings with stran- * The Glatton struck on a shoal here, as will be seen under that ship's name, among the descriptions of eastern passages to St. Helena. I 54 WEST COAST OF AFRICA. St. r.iul de I.oando. gers, are well disposed, exchanging their pigs, goats, fowls, and fruits (being all the island affords), for linen cloth, cutlery, needles, &c. Cape Lope.. CAPE LOPEZ DE GONZALVES, in lat. 0° 36^' S., Ion. 8° 401' £., is low and woody, and, with the whole of the coast, which is generally low to Angola, may be ap- proached to 15 or 20 fathoms. The coast in lat. 2° 10' S. is in about Ion. 9° 45' E., and here the bank of soundings deepens regularly from 16 fathoms about 3 leagues off" shore, to 70 fathoms about 9 leagues off"; then no bottom at 100 fathoms. Loango Bay. LOANGO BAY (rivef entrance), in lat. 4° 39i' S., Ion. 11° 42' E., is surrounded by red clifl^s; and from the southern extremity, called Indian Point, in lat. 4° 40' S., a reef projects nearly half way across the bay, with probably not less than 6 or 7 fa- thoms water on it, and the extremity is about 7 miles oft' shore, with Indian Point bearing S.E. There is good anchorage within the reef in 4 fathoms, f of a mile from the shore; but the surf prevents landing, except in the canoes of the country. Congo River. CONGO RIVER (Shark-Point), in lat. 6° 4f' S., Ion. 12° 12^' E., is wide, with rapid freshes running out of it to the north-westward, particularly in the rainy season, which discolour the sea at a considerable distance from land, and carry floating islands of trees a great way out to sea. The navigation of this river is not well known,* al- though the expedition sent for its exploration, under the late unfortunate Captain Tuckey, has improved our knowledge of this remarkable river. ST. PAUL DE LOANDO, a city of considerable extent, in lat. 8° 48' S., Ion. 1.3° 8' E. ; the citadel is situated on the South shore of Bengo Bay, on an island 10 leagues long, which, with a peninsula of the main, forms a good harbour, that will con- tain the largest fleets in perfect safety. This is the chief settlement of the Portuguese on the coast of Angola, and the best place for a ship to obtain refreshments. The ar- ticles most appropriate for trade here, and at other parts of this coast, are coarse blue checked India cloths, English white coarse cottons, glass ware, and cutlery of inferior quality, ready-made woollen coats, and shoes . Bengueia Bay. BENGUELA BAY, Cape Ledo, is in lat. 9° 46' S., Ion. 13° 12' E., by Capt. Owen's survey. Fort Flag-staff" in lat. 12° 33i'S.,t Ion. 1.3° 20' E., by the same survey, or 19° 5j' E. of James Town, St. Helena, by Captain Heywoods chronometers, in H.M. ship Nereus: it is called also the Bay of St. Antonio, St. Philip of Bengueia being the chief Portuguese settlement on the coast of Bengueia. The Nereus, on the 29th January 1811, anchored in 10 fathoms, with the Flag-staff" just touching the East side of the church, bearing S. 54° E., distant 1^ miles. The Georgina, 12th June 1805, moored in 10 fathoms, with the northern extreme of the land N. by W. i W., St. Philip's Bonnet W.N.W. i W., the Flag-staff' of the fort S.E. ^ E., off" shore I|^ miles, and found two ships and seven brigs in the road, under Portuguese colours. This bay is formed on the S.W. side by a peninsula, the extremity of which is called * The freshes run almost constantly out of the Congo or Zahir River all the year, sometimes at the rate of five and six miles an hour, there being little or no tide ; and as there is upwards of 100 fathoms water in the middle of the entrance, the difficulty of navigating it is great ; its extent and source are unknown to Europeans. t M. D'Urville made the lat. 12° 31' 42" S. Mr. De Mayne made it 12° 33' 6" S. I WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 55 Punta de Chapeo, from a single clump of trees on it, the shore on each side being bar- ren; and this clump is called St, Philip's Bonnet, or Hat. The extreme points of the bay extend from each other about 7 or 8 miles ; and from a transit line joining these points, the bay is about 2^ miles in depth to the beach : upon that transit line, and half- way between St. Philip's Bonnet and the low sandy point of the bay, the depth of water is 17 fathoms, from hence decreasing gradually to 6 fathoms within a^mile of the shore. The surrounding country abounds with excellent fruit and vegetables in the proper season, but the water is not of the best quality, and is procured with some difficulty, by bailing it out of wells of considerable depth, distant about 300 yards from the beach, where the surf runs high at times. The Nereus was well supplied with bullocks, sheep, goats, hogs, fruit, and vegetables ; and plenty of fine fish were caught with the seine in the bay. Variation 22° W. in 1825. The Company's ship Thames, outward-bound to Bengal, after passing to the east- ward of the Cape de Verde Islands, had light westerly and S.S.W. winds, with which, and a strong easterly current, she was drifted along the coast of Africa, at times ap- proaching it within 60 miles, until abreast of Benguela, where she anchored 28th Sep- tember 1822, with the hope of procuring vegetables, &c., but no vegetables could be got at this season, and they only got a supply of fish, bullocks, and sheep, and found great difficulty in bringing oft' a few tons of water. Captain J. Crawford, of the Bom- bay Marine, at this time a passenger in the Thames, made the flag-staff" of Benguela in lat. 12° 32|;' S., Ion. 13° 30f' E. by mean of four chronometers, from observations taken on shore with an artificial horizon, and describes the bay to aflTord good anchorage in mud and sand, although much exposed, being only a small indentation in the land. The town and fort are in a state of decay, garrisoned by about 300 native troops, having mostly European officers over them, banished hence by the mandate of their sovereign. This place is chiefly supported by trading in slaves, who are mostly carried to the coast of Brazil : as liquor shops are numerous, ships touching here ought not to let their seamen visit the town without great circumspection. CAPE NEGRO, the Pillar, in lat. 15° 41' S., Ion. 11° 53' E., by Capt. Owen's Cape Negro. survey, is of a level, brown, sandy appearance, discernible when clear at 7 leagues dis- tance, but the atmosphere is generally hazy ; in passing at 3 leagues distance, in regular depths of 12 to 15 fathoms, no projecting headland was seen in the JNereus. Between Benguela Bay and Cape Negro, there are several bays near the former ; Bays. with Village Bay, Turtle Bay, and Little Fish Bay, nearest the Cape. Village Bay is in lat. 14° 10' S., where the Abington and Josiah anchored in 20 fathoms in October 1 703, and got plenty of wood and water from a pool near the shore. PORT ALEXANDER, Sandy North point, in lat. 15° 47' S., Ion. 11° 461' E., is Po.t Aie.an- formed by the peninsula of Cape Negro, which terminates in a curve to north-east- ward, bounding the entrance on the West side. This port has from 12 to 20 fathoms water in it, and seems to be well sheltered from all winds. FISH BAY, North Point, in lat. 16° 30' S., Ion. 11° 41' E., formed by a narrow Fish i3ay. sandy 'peninsula on the West side, called Tiger Peninsula, has even soundings from 12 to 6 fathoms, being a spacious and safe harbour. No fresh water being pro- curable on the coast, from lat. 16° to 31' S., these bays are seldom visited except by whalers. 56 WEST COAST OF AFRICA. — WINDS AND CURRENTS. Cape Frio. Walvish Bay. Sandwich Har- bour, CAPE FRIO is in lat. 18° 23' S., Ion. 11° 57^' E., and Cross Cape in lat. 21° 50' S., Ion. 13° 52' E„ by Capt. Owen's survey. WALVISH, OR WALWICH BAY, Pelican Point, in lat. 22° 52' S., Ion. 14° 22' E., is spacious and well sheltered, except from northerly winds, which seldom blow here; and^it is frequented by whalers. Soundings extend a considerable way off the coast, from hence to Cape Negro. SANDWICH HARBOUR, in lat. 23° 30' S., is small, with only 3 fathoms water in it. HOLLAM'S BIRD ISLAND (centre) is in lat. 24° 37^' S., Ion. 14° 27^' E. Alligator Rocks, said by Capt. Wood, of H. M. S. Garland, to be d leagues off shore, in lat. 24° 38' S., having breakers to the S.W. about 2 leagues, in about Ion. 14° 14' E. Spencer Bay. Angra Pe- qucna. SPENCER BAY, in lat. 25° 46' S., has 5 and 6 fathoms water; but although sheltered by Mercury Island on the West side of the entrance, it is rather exposed to northerly winds, ANGRA PEQUENA (Little Bay), or Santa Cruz, in lat. 26° 38^' S., Ion. 15° 2^' E., has 3^, 4, and 5 fathoms water ; the best and deepest anchorage is on the East side of the isles at its entrance, in 4 or 4i fathoms, sheltered from all winds. Elizabeth Bay. ELIZABETH BAY is fomied by Possession Island, which lies about 3 miles from the land, having a channel between them of 8, 9, and 10 fathoms ; and the South point of this island is in lat. 26° 38|^' S., Ion. 15° 7^' E. A ship may anchor under the island, and be sheltered from West to S.W. This place is the boundary between the Kafl'er and Hottentot countries. Cape Voltas. CAPE VOLTAS, in lat. 28° 44' S., Ion. 16° 26i' E., is to the South of the Orange or Giarep River ; an extensive shoal projects from it, and to the South, adjoining to the coast, there are several islets. Orange River, dry-bar, is in lat. 28° 38^' S., Ion. 16° 221' E. Orange River. To the southward of Cape Voltas, soundings extend far out, for the Hanover, from India, on the 2d June, 1715, in lat. 29° S., perceiving the water discoloured, sounded • in 95 fathoms fine sand, and at noon had 115 fathoms in lat. 29° 6' S. ; after steering N.VV. 8 miles, the land was seen at 4 p.m. bearing N.E. by E., distant, supposed. about 15 leagues. CapeDonkin. CAPE DONKIN survey. IS in lat. 31° 541' s.^ Ion. 18° 14^' E., by Capt. Owen's WINDS AND CURRENTS. Along the Coast of Sierra Leone and the Grain Coast to Cape Palmas, N:W. and N.N.W. winds prevail. From thence, across the Gulf of Guinea to Cape Lopez, the winds are generally from S.W. and southward. Towards the coast, in South latitude, WEST COAST OF AFRICA. — WINDS AND CURRENTS. 57 um z 10 they are observed near the land to take a more westerly direction, often prevailing from S. W. and W. S. W. along- tlie African Coast between Cape Lopez and Ben- guela. As the distance is increased from the coast, the winds veer in proportion more \yii"is noi southerly; it has been said, that the boundary of the winds which blow from South to uengueiiT S. W. along- the West coast of Africa to lat. 28° S. is an imaginary line drawn from Cape Good Hope to Cape Palmas. It may be observed, that the winds are found, in general, to draw to the S. by E. or S. S. E., considerably to the eastward of this ima- ginary line ; some ships, however, have been perplexed with winds from South and S. by W. between 7° and 15° South lat. until several degrees to the westward of this imaginary line, although this seldom happens. From Cape Lopez to Sierra Leone, a dry, parching easterly wind sometimes blows narmaiian. along- the Coast of Guinea in December, January, and February, called the Harmattan by the Fantees, a nation on the Gold Coast. In these months, the Harmattan may appear at any period of the moon, continuing- sometimes only 1 or 2 days, at other times 5 or 6, and has been known to last 15 or 16 days. Tiiere are generally 3 or 4 returns of it every season, and it usually blows moderately. On the Coast of Sierra Leone, its direction is from E.S. E., and the same farther northward: on the Gold Coast from N. E., and at Cape Lopez and the River Gaboon from N. N. E. The Harmattan is accompanied by a dark haze, and it is a cold, parching wind, destruc- tive to vegetation, but purifies the atmosphere from infectious exhalations. Preceding and subsequent to the rainy season, on the Coast of Guinea, tornadoes Tornadoes, may be expected ; these are hard squalls from East and E. S. E. accompanied with thunder, lightning, and much rain. In the Gulf of Guinea, faint breezes and calms are also frequent at various seasons of the year. In the fair season, on the coasts which embrace the Gulf of Gijinea, land and sea Land and sea breezes prevail ; but the winds blow almost constantly from the sea during the rains. The currents are variable on the Grain Coast ; in the S. W. monsoon, when the sun is far to the northward, they frequently run to the N. W., but at other times often to the S. E. They set mostly between North and East across the Gulf, from Cape Palmas to Cape Lopez; particularly from the Coast, to lat. 2° N. From lat. 2° N. across the equator to lat. 1° or 2° S., the current frequently sets strong to the westward ; this is mostly experienced about the equator, and a little to the northward of it, when the sun has great north declination. About Cape Lopez, and from thence along the coast to the southward, the current often sets to the northward ; at other times it is variable, with strong ripplings near the rivers in the rainy season ; when the freshes from these rivers, added to a body of water being driven towards the coast by the S. W. wind, is turned backward and forms a westerly current. In the diy season, there is often no current.* Major Sabine, during his scientific voyage, in H.M. S. Pheasant, 1822, made the following observations on the Gulf of Guinea current and equatorial currents. Passing betweenCape Mount and Cape Three Points, in April and May, the Pheasant expe- rienced an acceleration of 180 miles by the Guinea current, which, in the season wlien S.W. winds prevail on this part of the coast, runs with considerable velocity in the breezes. Currents. Major Sabine's account of them. * Within the space, lengthwise, between Cape Verde and Cape Mesurado, and in certain places to the ex- tent of 70 leagues off shore (50 off Sierra Leone), a regular change of winds and currents takes place accord- ing to the seasons ; that is to say, a N. E. or North wind and S. E. current from September to June ; and the rest of the year S.W. winds and N.E. or Northerly currents The Gtdnea Current may be taken at 60 leagues in breadth ; its greatest rapidity is during the season of S. W. winds, in the sea lyir g west of Sierra Leone and south of the Cape Verde Islands. — Renncll on Currents, p. 38. I 58- WEST COAST OF AFRICA. — WINDS AND CURRENTS. direction of the land from Cape Palmas to the eastern part of the Gulf of Guinea. The breadth of this current fronting Cape Palmas varies with tlie season, and has been found to extend to 180 miles ; in its subsequent course to the eastward it enlarges to nearly 300 miles, and occupies the whole space between the land on one side, and the equatorial current on the other, running in an opposite direction. The velocity off Cape Palmas and Cape Three Points, and in the vicinity of the land in the month of May, was about two miles per hour; farther to the eastward where the Pheasant crossed its breadth, from Cape Formosa to St. Thomas, and where its velocity had been much diminished by the dissipation of its waters, the rate was rather less than one mile per hour, and the direction a little to the southward of East. The general temperature of the stream in mid-channel, in the Gulf of Guinea, in April and May, was about 84°, diminishing from 8;i° to 82° on its southern verge, where it is in contact vvith the colder water of the equatorial current ; and occasionally between 79° and 8U° on its northern side, in the proximity of the land. In the pas- sage between the River Gaboon and the Island of Ascension, being 1,400 miles of dis- tance, the Pheasant was carried 300 miles in the direction of her course by the current. The equatorial current commences much farther to the eastward than is usually imagined, and the Island of Anno Bona appears to be always environed by it ; while Prince's Island is equally surrounded by the Guinea current. St. Thomas being in an intermediate situation, the sea around it is occasionally subject to both currents. In consequence of the southerly trade-wind in the vicinity of the African continent, the water impelled before it, which forms the commencement of the equatorial stream, arrives from a more remote southern parallel, and is, therefore, of a colder temperature than the drift-water which successively falls into it from the S. E., impelled more obliquely to the meridian, and consequently arriving from latitudes less distant from the equator : the temperature of the stream, therefore, varied from 72|^° to 74°, whilst that of the drift-current was 77^° and 78°. But the distinction of importance and utility to navigation is between the waters of the equatorial and Guinea currents ; which exhibit the remarkable phenomenon of parallel streams, in contact with each other, flowing with great velocity in opposite directions, and having a difference of temperature of 10° or 12°. Their course continues to run parallel to each other, and to the land, above 1,000 miles; and, according as a vessel, intending to proceed along the coast in either direction, happens to be in the one or the other of these currents, her progress will be accelerated or retarded from 40 to 50 miles per day. Rainy season. The Taius sct iu On the Coast of Guinea in May, and continue till October ; as they do also on the West coasts of both peninsulas in India, and others situated to the northward of the equator, which have the ocean open to the West or S. W. The rainy season to the southward of the equator, on the Coasts of Loango, Congo, and Angola, is the opposite to that on the Coast of Guinea ; the sun in the northern hemisphere bringing the rainy season on the latter coast, at the time that it is the dry season on the former; the southern sun producing the rains to the southward of the equator. 59 BRAZIL COAST* HEADLANDS AND HARBOURS.— WINDS AND CURRENTS- PASSAGES OF SHIPS. HEADLANDS AND HARBOURS. CAPE ST. ROQUE is the name given in all the older charts to the N.E. point of Cape st. Brazil, but the survey of Baron Roussin has shewn, that this name properly belongs to '^"i"'' a less remarivable point, 2-5 miles further South, in lat. 5° 28' N., Ion. 35° iV' W. The N.E. point of Brazil is Point Toiro, oi* Calcanhar, in lat. 5° 8' N., Ion. 35° 31' W. Cape St. Roque appears to be in about lat. 5° 10' S., Ion. 35° 40' W. CAPE LEDO (Fort Cabedello), in lat. 6° 57' S., Ion. 34° 50' W.,t forms the outer Cpe ud.,, extreme land bounding Parahyba River, which is a place of considerable trade, having ^"'^r^''"'''^''* 1^ fathoms on the bar at low water. Between Cape St. Roque and this place, the coast is generally lined by reefs, with soundings extending to a considerable distance; but near Cape Ledo the bank is rather more steep, although 10 and 12 fathoms are got with the cape bearing West, distant 10 or 12 miles. Reefs project to a considerable distance from this part of the coast, rendering caution indispensable when approaching it in the night. CAPE ST. AUGUSTINE, in lat. 8° 21' S., and about Ion. 34° 50 W^, is formed Cape s,. au. of a ridge of high land projecting into the sea, having the fort N.S. de Nazareth on the s"^"""' summit of the hill over the cape. PERNAMBUCO, in lat. 8° 4' S., Ion. 34° 52' W., and about 6 leagues northward Pemambuco. of this cape, is a place of great trade, being the port of the city of Olinda :;}: the en- trance is narrow, with 1^ fathoms in it at low water, nor is there room for many sliips inside : a pilot is necessary to conduct a ship into this port. The reef which forms the harbour extends nearly North and South, having Picao Fort and Light-liouse on its northern extremity, and ships, steering westward for the entrance of tiie harbour, must haul close round this extremity of the reef, and be ready to drop their anchor in the harbour, which stretches southward within the reef. Large ships in want of refreshments may anchor in tiie road well out, and get the needful supplies, \\here they * The positions here given of the Brazil Coast, which will be found to differ from those in former editions of the Directory, are adopted chiefly on the authority of Baron Roussin, confirmed by the observations of Cap- tain Fitz-Roy and others. t General Brisbane and Professor Rumker made this cape in lat. 6° 53' S., Ion. 34° 43' W. by chrono- meters in 1821. ---The Cape is called Point Balea in our recent charts. t This small city is 3 miles from Pernambuco, situated on a small hill, and its aspect is beautiful when viewed from the sea, occasioned by its whitewashed churches and convents, which are visible at a considerable distance ; and the gardens and trees, being interspersed among the houses on the top and sides of the hill, add greatly to the beauty of the landscape. I 2 60 BRAZIL COAST. — BAHIA. will be enabled to proceed to sea on the appearance of blowing weather. Captain Hevvett, R.N., who surveyed the road in 1815, says that sliips should give Olinda Point a berth of at least .'} miles, keeping in 10 fathoms ; the reef in many parts being steep to ; and in coming from the southward, Olinda Point should not be brought eastward of North till FortPicao bears N.W. by N. From Cape St. Augustine, the coast takes a direction about S. by W. several leagues, then south-westerly to the Reefs of St. Francisco, in about lat. 10° 20' S., which line the shore, having a passage within them for small vessels. From hence, the coast lies nearly S.W. to the Bay of All Saints, having a reef fronting it in many places, forming a few intermediate harbours for small vessels. If a large ship make the land about Capes Ledo or St. Augustine, it will be prudent not to approach it under 25 or 20 fathoms in proceeding to the southward ; for with due caution the soundings are generally a sufficient guide. B..hi.. BAHIA DE TO DOS OS SANTOS (Bay of All Saints), or Harbour of St. Salva- dor, is an extensive basin with several islands in it, the entrance being bounded by the large island of Itaparica on the West side, and on the East side by the peninsula on which the city of St. Salvador is built. Cape St. Antonio, or Cape St. Salvador, is the S.W. extreme of the peninsula, on which stands Fort St. Antonio Lighthouse, in lat. 13° 1' S., Ion. 38° 31' W.* From the Cape a shoal bank projects southward to the distance of nearly 5 miles, called the Shoal of St. Antonio, on which the tide makes ripplings ; the general depth on it is 4 fathoms ; there are, however, several shoaler spots, and one near its South extreme, with only 13 feet. The Island Itaparica is lined with a shoal bank that bounds the West side of the channel, and must be avoided: the depths are 10 and 12 fathoms in the fair track, a little outside the entrance of the har- bour, deepening to 15 and 20 fathoms farther in. Dircciions. With a fair wind, when Cape St. Salvador is approached within 4 or 5 miles, it should be brought to bear N. by E. or N. by E. ^ E., and when Fort St. Antonio is on. this bearing, steer N. ^ E. or N. by E. direct for the harbour, borrowing on the Cape bank if the wind be easterly; or as soon as Montserat Point (which is the first point to the northward on the East side of the liarbour) is seen open with the Cape Point, steer right in. The pilots say, that a ship may borrow on the Cape Bank to 5 fathoms with a steady breeze, but not under 15 fathoms with little wind. If the wind be at E.N.E. qr N.E., a ship may work in with safety, taking care to avoid the western shore ; and a pilot will come off, if the signal be made. Having entered the harbour and neared Fort Balco, pass it in 14 fathoms about ^ mile distant, then anchor abreast the city, in 8, 10, or 12 fathoms, about 1 or 1^ miles ofT; the bottom is sandy in some places. Anchorage. The Glattou, uioorcd in 8 fathoms, sand-shells and coral, had the flag-staff of the fort abreast the city bearing E.N.E. ^ N., distant I mile, Fort Balco S.'^ W. about 1 mile, extremes of the Island Itaparica from N.W. by W. to W. S.W. distant 4 or 5 Tides. miles. High water at 3 hours on full and change of moon. This port is sometimes visited by outward-bound East-India ships in want of re- freshments, but its situation being nearly in the middle of the S.E. trade, navigators are cautious of touching here, thinking they may afterwards find it difficult to get to the * Capt. Hewett made it in lat. 13° 0' 30" S., Ion. 38° 24' W.— Baron Roussin has placed the lighthouse in lat. 13° 0'48" S., Ion. 38° 31' 48" W., and Major Sabine is said to have made it Ion. 38° 33J' W. in 1822. Lieut. Raper adopts 38° 31' 50" W. BRAZIL COAST. — ABROLIIOS. 61 southward on account of adverse southerly winds, supposed to blow along- the coast froui March to September; but the East-India sliips have usually proceeded from this port to the southward without difBculty, even in the most unfavourable months, June, July, and August ; for the wind generally draws well to the eastward here, and more so, as you proceed to the southward. Capt. Hewett says, that between September and March the winds generally prevail from N. by E. to N.N. E. : between March and September from E. by N. to E.S.E., but are influenced by the proximity and temperature of tlie land; and about the equinoxes, especially when the sun is advancing to the northward, calms and variable light winds are experienced near the coast, particularly between Abrolhos and Cape Frio. PORTO SEGURO, in lat. 16° 27' S., is a place of considerable trade, but will not Pono segum admit large ships, and the road outside is said to be foul ground : shoals lie about 5 miles to the E.N.E. of the river's mouth, which must be left to the northward in pro- ceeding to the road. If a ship touch here, a pilot will be necessary. ABROLHOS, or BRAZIL BANK, extends from lat. 17° to 20° S., having various Abroii.osor depths from 20 to 60 fathoms, and on the parallel of 18° S. it projects about 40 ^"'"^ ''""''■ leagues East from the coast, or to Ion. 37° W. ; but farther to the northward it a[)- proaches much nearer to the coast. It seems not to be a continued bank, but probably is formed of several detached parts, with deep water between them, as soundings have been got by several ships as far to the eastward as 36°, while others between that me- ridian and the main bank have sounded in from 100 to 280 fathoms with no bottom. The Royal Charlotte, Brunswick, and Glatton, left St. Salvador 5th June, 1803, and on the day following, in lat. 16° 0' S., Ion. 37°48'W., had soundings of 22 and 25 fathoms; steered from thence 15 miles S.S.E. to S.E. gradually deepening to 60 fathoms. The Warren Hastings, 3d June, 1803, in lat. 16° 0' S., Ion. 38° 42' VV. by lunars, and 38° 54' VV. by chronometers, had 23 fathoms; then steered between S. -^ E. and S.S.E. 19 miles, in 22, 23, 25, 30, and 35 fathoms, and soon after had no ground at 70 fathoms. The David Scott, 28th June, 1810, in lat. 16° 35' S., Ion. 38° 26' VV., had from 1.9 to 24 fathoms ; the coast in sight, bearing W.S.W., distant about 17 leagues. The soundings of these ships appear to have been on the northernmost part of the Brazil Bank, which is probably a detached part projecting about 26 or 28 leagues from the coast, as all these ships lost soundings, steering south-south-eastward. The Busbridge, 5th June, 1792, in lat. ^8° 35' S., Ion. 35° 54' W. by chronometers, ami 35° 56' W. by lunars, had soundings 30, 32, and 33 fathoms coral rock, probably near the eastern verge of the Bank of Abrolhos. The Dorsetshire got no soundings, in passing not far from the situation where the Busbridge had ground. The Sir Edward Hughes, 13th June, 1802, in lat. 17° 18' S., Ion. 36° 15' W.,.no ground with 100 fathoms line; steered S.E. by S. 32 miles, no ground 100 fathoms; steered S.E. 22 miles, no ground 65 fathoms. Upon this outer Bank of Abrolhos, to the eastward of the islands of the same name, there is no danger, and it is a guide for ships approaching the coast, although there appear to be deep gaps or chasms in it, particularly to the'northward of lat. 18° S. ABROLHOS ISLANDS, in lat. 17° 58' S., Ion. 38° 34' W., distant about 12 leagues Abroii.os is. from the coast, consist of 4 small isles near each other, with some rocks and shoals ad- '^"•''• joining : they are destitute of water, but abound with rats and turtle. There is said to 62 BRAZIL COAST. — CAPE FRIO. be 6 or 7 Aithonis off the East point of the easternmost island, which is the largest, and that a ship might anchor between it and South Island ; but Captain Isbister, in hauling round the South side of the latter, in search of turtle, got his ship aground on a coral shoal. They are apparently safe to approach from the eastward, as Captain J. Crabtree, in January 1811, passed outside of them at 8 or 9 miles distance, and had not less than 13 fathoms regular soundings, and they seemed clear of danger on that side. Captain Fitz-Roy describes these islets as rather low% but covered with grass, with a little scattered brushwood ; the highest rising about 100 feet above the sea, and the soundings in their vicinity so very irregular, that little dependence can be placed on the lead. He makes the eastern summit of the principal islet in Ion. 38° 4V 30" W. Inner Channel. To the W cst of the Abrolhos Islauds, there is a channel about .3 leagues wide, with a depth generally from 9 to 14 fathoms coral, sand and mud ; there are several spots in the southern part, however, which have not more than 6 or 7 fathoms. On the West side towards the land, this channel is bounded by shoals and rocks above water, called the Paredes ; it is seldom used except by coasters. Coast to the Froiii Abrolhos Point to Espirito Santo, the coast lies about S. by VV., and is safe to southward. approach. When round Espirito Santo, which is in about lat. 20° 18' S., the coast trends more to tlie S.W. to Cape St. Thome, situated in lat. 22° 2' S. This part of the coast should not be approached too closely on account of several small islands off it, and on account of the shoals off the Cape itself. The shoals of St. Thome are but imperfectly known, and their extent to seaward from the Cape has been variously re- ported from 8 to 30 miles. Moriey Bank. Thc Morley Bduk, on which the ship of this name lost her rudder, is said to extend 7 or 8 leagues to the north-eastward of Cape St. Thome, being nearly 5 leagues in diameter, of circular form, with irregular rocky soundings, and in one part only 3 or 4 feet. Its southern edge is in a line with Cape St. Thome, bearing nearly E.N.E. To the south-westward of Cape St. Thome lie the three Isles of Santa Anna, about two leagues or more from the shore, affording shelter and good anchorage under them ; and fresh water may be got at a village to the northward of them. The large bay in which these islands are situated, formed by Cape St. Thome and Cape Busios, is called the Bay of Santa Anna. Several rivers fall into it, and its shores are low, like the coast about Cape St. Thome and to the northward of it. The sound- ings in the outer part of the bay are from 25 to 30 fathoms, decreasing with tolerable regularity towards the islands and the main. Cape Busios. Cape Busios, in lat. 22° 46' S., Ion. 41° 48' W., is about 22 leagues S. W. i W. from Cape St. Thome, and is the north-eastern point of that projecting portion of the coast which forms Cape Frio, from which it bears N.N.E. distant about .5 leagues. There are several groups of small islands off this part of the coast. The White Islands, about two miles offshore to the northward of and within Cape Busios ; tlie Anchor Islands, three miles East of that Cape; and the Papagayos or Parrot Islands, midway between Cape Busios and Cape Frio. Cape Frio. CAPE FRIO is an island about 2^ miles long from N.E. to S.W., and f of a mile wide, having between it and the main the anchorage of Port Frio, which consists of several bays with a depth of water varying from 17 to 4 fathoms. The principal en- trance to Port Frio is to the N.E. between the north end of Frio Island and the little isle of Porcos ; it is more than -^ a mile wide, with a depth in the centre from 17 to 24 fathoms. The southernmost bay, which is formed by Frio Island and the nearest main land, has a bank of 1 and If fathoms across it, on which the sea breaks in N.E. winds ; BRAZIL COAST. — KIO DE JAAEIKO. 63 at the head of this bay, however, there is anchorage in from 3 to 7 fathoms, the entrance to it being- to the S.W., through the channel formed by tiie West point of Frio Island and the main : this channel is deep, but is less than half a cable in width. Outside the Cape, S.VV. and N.E. winds produce currents in the opposite directions, which run from ^ to 1^ knots, and usually precede the wind. With S.W. winds there is aS.W. eddy in-shore. Ships bound for Rio Janeiro always steer to make Cape Frio, which at a distance appears like two paps or hummocks. The South extreme of Cape Frio Island is in lat. 23° 1' S., and in Ion. 41° 50' W., or 1° 4' E. from Rat Island in Rio Janeiro Harbour, by Captain F. Heywood's chronometers : but Captain Beechey made it in Ion. 41° 5BJ' W., or 1° 15' E. from (jiloria Observatory. Captain Foster, in H.M.S. Chanticleer, in 1828, made Cape Frio in 41° 58' 15" W. by mean of 17 chro- nometers ; this is adopted by Lieutenant Raper. The Honourable Ca|)tain de Ros, R.N., who surveyed Porto Frio in 1832, makes the lat. of the Cape 23° 1' 6" S. The land about tlie Cape is of middling height, appearing at a distance like islands ; to the northward, the land is higher. From Abrolhos Bank to this place, soundings are generally got at a moderate distance from the coast. RIO JANEIRO HARBOUR is about 20 leagues West from Cape Frio, and ships uio Janeiro. approaching the latter must be careful not to run into the bay to the northward of the Cape with the wind East or S.E. in the night : this has happened to several ships by mistaking the latitude of the Cape, and being ignorant of the currents. In steering from Cape Frio to the westward, keep 3 or 4 leagues off shore, and when the distance is 9 or 10 leagues West from Cape Frio, you will see the Sugar-Loaf, if clear weather, and soon after Redonda, or Round Island, bearing about West, and appearing like a small hummock, also the extremity of the land to the westward : steer direct for it, and you will soon see Raza Island, and in sailing along will pass the Maricas, which are 2 or 3 small low islands near the shore, distant 3 leagues or more from the entrance of the harbour. Round Island bears from Cape Frio W. ^ S., dis- tant 64 miles, and is in shape a perfect haycock. Raza Island is low, and seems as if sliced off to the northward, by which it probably got the name of Raza. When bearing to the westward, it resembles a slipper. There is now a lighthouse on its most elevated part, exhibiting a light which revolves every three minutes, shewing a bright and red light alternately. The soundings are 30 and .35 fathoms near these islands on the outside and to the eastward of them. Steering on for Raza Island, you will see the Islands Paya and Maya,* which are 5 or 6 miles east- ward of the harbour, and lie near the shore, off Point Taipu : — Paya, the outermost, is on with the Sugar-Loaf bearing N.W. by \V,f W.; Maya is within it, and there is another small islet within these, so near the shore that it is not always perceived. Raza Island bears from Round Island E. by N. | N., and from the Sugar-Loaf S. by W, The Great Channel leading to the harbour is between the Paya Islands to the east- ward, and Raza Island westward, and when these islands are approached, the entrance of the harbour will be perceived : it is formed by the Sugar-Loaf to the westward, and Santa Cruz point to the eastward, on which is a fort. Having the Sugar-Loaf open to the westward of Paya, steer direct for it; and if the wind be not likely to carry you fairly into the harbour, anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, when you are within i or f of a mile of a small isle, lying just without the Sugar-Loaf, called Catunduba or Tou- cinhos, with it bearing about N.W, If you go farther in, the swell on the bar will * The Nereus frigate passed between them, and Capt. Heywood observes, that there are good passages between all the islands which lie off the entrance of Rio Janeiro harbour. 64 BRAZIL COAST. — RIO DE JANEIRO. make you roll your ports in the water ; and it is imprudent to anchor between the Sugar-Loaf and Santa Cruz, in the narrow part of the entrance to the harbour, where the dejjth is peater, the bottom rocky, the channel not a mile wide ; and with the tide rusiiiuir through it. between the rocky shores on each side, at the rate of 6 or 7 miles an hour on the springs. The sea breeze usually sets in before mid-day in the entrance of the harbour, and continues till about sun-set. Do not enter between the Sugar-Loaf and Santa Cruz point with an ebb tide, and the sea breeze far expended, for several ships, at different times, have been nearly lost, by anchoring in the gut between them.* If you do not get a pilot outside, keep nearer Santa Cruz point than the Sugar-Loaf, in passing between them. There is a fort called St. Joa5, a little above the Sugar- Loaf; this and Santa Cruz Fort on the opposite side command the entrance of the har- bour. When past the latter, the course up the harbour is about N. by W. ^ \V., leaving tiie little isle of Lagea to the westward. You may then stand boldly on for the anchor- age abreast the city, if there is a moderate commanding breeze ; and you cannot have a more convenient berth for watering, &c. than with the principal church in one with the small Isle Ratos, or Rat Island, S. 53° W. by compass, and the flag on Villegagnon Fort on with the Sugar-Loaf S. 8^ E., where you will be abreast the watering place, in 17 fathoms mud and sand. Isle Cobras lies before the city, and some ships pass round the north part of it, and anchor before the monastery at the N.W. end of the city. If the breeze is light and flattering, as soon as you pass Santa Cruz point, haul up to the eastward; for should you be obliged to anchor short, the ground is good on this side. The inner harbour lies within the islands Cobras and Enchadas. On the N.W. side of the former, tliere is a convenient place to heave down ships of any size. Rio Janeiro Harbour is easy of access, readily known by the remarkable land about it, and is very commodious. You should moor as soon as possible, the tides being- much influenced by the winds, and the latter so variable, that it is difiicult to keep a Tides. clear anchor 24 hours : it is high water at 4^ hours full and change of the moon,t the ebb then running much longer than the flood, and the velocity 3j or 4 miles per hour. Rio Janeiro City, called also San Sebastiao, is the capital of Brazil, formerly the re- sidence of a viceroy, now of an emperor. The water is conveyed in pipes to the jetty, where boats lie and fill their casks with ease, as the rise and fall of the tides are incon- siderable. Hogs and poultry are dear, and the beef of inferior quality ; but plenty of excellent fruit, yams, pumpkins, and otiier vegetables, are easily obtained, wiiich are very useful for a scorbutic ship's company, as the yams and pumpkins will keep a long time at sea. Directions for VYheu bouud out, if the wind is steady, steer direct for Santa Cruz point, but edge departing. q^.^j. j^ j|^g eastward as soon as you can if it is light, till Santa Cruz bears about S.S.E. \ E. If obliged to anchor, go no farther out, than to bring Villegagnon flag-stafT on * September 16th, 1803, H.M. ships Sceptre and Grampus, with the outward-bound fleet for India, steered in for the harbour in the afternoon. At 7 p.m. it became squally and dark, with thunder, lightning, and rain; the shore was discernible only by the flashes of lightning. The journal of the Essex states, that they anchored at 8 P.M. near the Sugar-lLoaf, and nearly drove on shore with two anchors down. The Earl Spencer also anchored at 8 p.m. in 19 fathoms, with the best bower, and soon perceived they were near the Sugar-Loaf, which obliged them to let go the small bower and sheet, to prevent being driven on shore. The ebb tide was setting round the point to the southward, near 7 miles an hour. This ship's journal mentions, that all the fleet were in danger in different ways, and that a flash of lightning saved the Sceptre from running on shore on Santa Cruz point. t The accounts of the time of high water difter considerably ; it therefore appears to be uncertain. Capt. Fitz-Roy gives 2h., and Purdy, in his Sailing Directions, 2h. 30m. at the full and change of the moon. BRAZIL COAST — RIO DE JANEIRO. 65 with the peak at tlie back of the town, bearing; about W. by S. | S., and Lagea or Square Island Fort on with the West end of Catunduba Island, where you will have 15 fathoms mud and sand : — this anchorage is about midway betwixt Villegagnon Fort and the eastern shore. F^arther out, the ground is foul and rocky. There is a small perpendicular islet, with a church and house on its summit, elevated about 100 yards from the sea, having its conmuuiication with the main by a bridge ; on the top of this islet, there is a well of excellent water, the water not more than 20 feet from the surface. The advantage of keeping to the eastward is, that if you weigh in the morning with the land breeze, at first generally very light, you are in the fair way of the tide, which will set you right out ; but if more to the westward, it would be liable to horse you upon Square Island, which consists of some rocks with a fort on them. The bar is about ^ or :| mile without Santa Cruz point ; the least water on it is thought to be G^ or ^ less 7 fathoms at low water spring tides. It is about ^ a mile in breadth, the depth increasing gradually on each side. The Sugar-Loaf is about 02 miles west from Cape Frio. Rat Island, in Rio Janeiro Harbour, is in lat. 22° 54' S., Ion. 4.'J° 1' W., by the obser- Position. vations of Captain Heywood, General Brisbane, and M. Rumker. By an eclipse of the sun, recorded in the Brazilian Gazette, it is said to be Ion. 43° 3^' W. Allowing Funchal to be in Ion. 16° 54' 31''' W., Capt. King made Rat Island ~in Ion. 43° 5' 32" W., and Capt. Foster in his scientiiic voyage, allowing Funchal the same, made Rat Island in Ion. 43° 4' 21" W. by the series of excellent chronometers furnished by government. Capt. Beechey, in 1825, made Gloria Observatory in lat. 22° 55' 11" S. by mean of 19 meridian altitudes of stars, corrected for aberration; and in lat. 22° 55' 14" S. by mean of 5 meridian altitudes of the sun. He made the Ion. 4.3° 12' 38"-9 W. by observations of right ascension of the moon. 43° 12' 46" W. by mean of 1 13 lunar dis- tances East and West. 43° 15' 10" W. by chronometers, from Santa Cruz ; and he made Cape Frio 1° 15' 2" E. of Gloria Observatory. Capt. Owen in his survey of 1822, made Raza Island Lighthouse in lat. 23° 3^' S., Ion. 43° 15' W., and the Sugar Loaf in lat. 22° 56' S., Ion. 43° 15' W. nearly. Capt. Fitz-Roy makes Villegagnon Island in lat. 22° 54' 40" S. and in Ion. 43° 8' 4"-5 VV.* Rio Janeiro, affording abundance of refreshments, is frequented by ships of war, and others bound to India with troops on board, for obtaining needful supplies ; but unless they are in want of water or refreshments, or otherwise obliged to run for a jjort, it seems not advisable for ships destined to India, to touch at any of the ports on the coast of Brazil, as it must considerably lengthen the passage. Should a squadron of ships be absolutely necessitated to stop somewhere, it may, however, be preferable to go into Rio Janeiro, rather than into False Bay at the Cape of Good Hope during the winter season, where supplies are not so abundant, nor the anchorage so safe for a fleet or large squadron. ILHA GRANDE, Point Castelhanos, its eastern point, is in lat. 23° 12' S., Ion. iii.a Grande. 44° 0' W., and the island is about 6 leagues in length, the eastern channel into its har- bour being about 10 leagues to the W.S.W. of Rio Janeiro entrance. The whole of the channel formed between Ilha Grande and the main, is a spacious and safe harbour for ships of any number and size, with soundings from 6 to 15 fathoms. There is fresh * These unaccountable differences between skilful navigators and astronomers, furnished with excellent chronometers and superior instruments for ensuring accuracy, are very perplexing to hydrographers. K 66 BRAZIL COAST. — SAN SEBASTIAO — SANTOS — STA. CATHERINA. Sail Sebasiiau Island. Santos. Alcatrasses. Redonda Isle. Island Sta. Ca- Iherina. Directions. water on the west end of the Island Maranbaya, which bounds the east side of the eastern channel, and wood may be got on the contiguous islands ; refreshments may also be got at the village on the main, opposite to the middle of llha Grande. SAN SEBASTIAO ISLAND. TheS.E. pointisin lat 23° 56' S., Ion. 45° 20' W., and Villa Nova Fort in lat. 23° 47' S., Ion. 45° 27' W., by the French survey, and it lies about 19 leagues to the S. VV. of llha Grande; a safe harbour is formed between it and the main, by entering from the northward and keeping near the island, as the main land is lined by a shoal bank. Refreshments may be got at the villages on the island, or at those on the continent. The South entrance is not above a mile wide, but with proper caution, may be navigated in a middling sized ship, as Captain Heywood, in the Nereus Frigate, in 1810, passed between the Island San Sebastiao and the main, where he lay 2 days during a S.E. gale, surveying the channel. He also passed between llha Grande and the main land. There are several groups of small islands in the neighbourhood of San Sebastiao : the Porcos Isles to N. E. near the main, with a passage inside them; the Busios 5 leagues to the eastward of its north point; Vittoria Island about 2 leagues W. S. W. of the Busios and nearly midway between those isles and San Sebastiao ; Monton de Trigo Island, off the coast 6 leagues, to the westward, and the Alcatrasses hereafter men- tioned. There is also a rock reported to have been seen by a Bahia pilot, 35 leagues S. byE.l E. of San Sebastiao in lat. 25° 41' S., Ion. 44° 48' W. SANTOS BAY, (llha Moela), in lat. 24° 2' S., Ion. 46°,23' W., about 15 leagues to the W. S. W. of San Sebastiao, affords safe anchorage from all winds, except those at S. E. and southward ; the town is 4 or 5 miles up the river. In this track, 5 or 6 leagues S. W. from the Island San Sebastiao, lie the Alcatrasses Isles, or Barre Rocks, in lat. 24° & S., Ion. 45° 47' VV., having foul ground about them. Lage de Santos, in lat. 24° 18' S., is about 6 feet above water, distant about (i^ leagues S. S. E. ^ E. from the entrance of the port of Santos. In raid-channel between it and the land the depths are 19 and 20 fathoms sand and ooze. Redonda, or Round Isle,* called also Queimada Grande, in lat. 24° 30' S., Ion. 46° 47' W., and about 6 or 7 leagues ofi' shore, has a reef a little inside of it, extending about 4 miles parallel to the coast; to avoid which, ships happening to get to the westward of Redonda ought to keep it bearing to the northward of E. by N., for with it bearing E. ^ N. a ship will be within ^ a mile of the reef. From Redonda Isle, to Sta. Catherina, there are several small islands near the coast, which is safe to approach, having in this space some harbours, the best of which is that of St. Francisco, in lat. 26° & S., and Garoupas Road, in about lat. 27° 5' S. ISLAND STA. CATHERINA extends about 10 leagues N. by E. and S. by W. the North end being in lat. 27° 23' S., Ion. 48° 32' W., by the French survey of Roussin, but it was formerly thought to be more to the eastward. The channel between this island and the main forms an excellent harbour for ships of every description ; and it is navigable to the narrow strait near the middle of the island, a little beyond which stands the town of Sta. Catherina, From hence, to the South end of the island, the channel will only admit small vessels out to sea. The proper passage into the harbour is round the North end of the island, between * The name Redonda, or Round Island, is said to be improperly given to this island, which is described as long and flat ; but belongs properly to the smaller Queimada, \vhieh is ten miles nearer the main. BRAZIL COAST— WINDS AND CURRENTS. 67 it and the Isle Alvoreda, distant about two leagues to the northward ; but a ship may pass occasionally betwixt this isle and the other small isles to the N.W. of it, or between the latter and the main, if necessary, the depths being from 8 to 12 fathoms among those isles. Having rounded the Nortii end of the island, steer to the S.W. and southward, keeping about mid-channel between Sta. Catherina and the main, and anchor under the small Isle Anhatomerim, situated near the latter. The Flag-staff of the Fort on Anhatomerim by Baron Roussin is in lat. 27° 25' 32" S. and Ion. 48° 40' 52" W. By Capt. Foster, in H.M.S. Chanticleer, in lat. 27° 25' 20" S., Ion. 48° 28' 30" W., by mean of 17 chronometers. Capt. Fitz-Roy, who confirms the Baron's latitude, makes the Ion. 48° 34' 45" W. Variation 6° 30' E. (1832). Ships are well supplied with fruits, vegetables, and refreshments of various kinds at this place, but the prices are rather high. Several small isles line the shores of Sta. Catherina on both sides, those off the South end extending about 3 leagues to sea- ward ; and the soundings increase to 65 or 70 fathoms about 10 leagues east of Sta. Catherina. Although neither the Spanish nor Portuguese charts mark any soundings between coast to iiio Rio Janeiro and Rio de la Plata, yet every part of this coast seems to be fronted by '*'''" soundings, stretching a considerable distance offshore. From the Island Sta. Catherina to Morro Sta. Marta, the coast extends about 20 leagues S.S.W. ; thence to Cape St. Mary, at the entrance of Rio de la Plata; the direction of the coast is generally about S.W., and in this space it has no safe harbours for large ships, but the shore in most places may be approached to a mode- rate distance with safety. WINDS AND CURRENTS. It has been observed, that on the Brazil coast the winds are periodical, blowing from S.S.E. and S.E. from March to September, the current then running to the northward; and from September to March, the wind blowing from N.E. and E.N.E. Periodical with a southerly current prevailing during the same period : vessels are therefore ^'nts^onBrat'ii directed to make the land to windward of the port they intend to touch at, according coast. to the direction of the periodical winds blowing along the coast, which generally govern the currents. When the sun is in the northern hemisphere, the winds on the Brazil coast certainly incline more to the south-eastward than in the opposite season, when that luminary is South of the equator, for at this time they prevail from the eastward. It appears that in any season of the year, if the coast be not made to the North of Cape St. Augustine, there is no difficulty in getting to the southward ; for ships which of making ihe have made the coast in lat. 7° and 8° S., which is considerably to the northward of this cape, even in the unfavourable season, found little difficulty in getting to the southward after making a few tacks, and experienced little or no current to the north- ward. But from March to October, in an indifferently sailing ship, it would be impru- dent to make the land to the north of Cape St. Augustine, if it can be avoided. To the northward of Gape Ledo or near Cape St. Roque, it certainly should not be made, on account of S.E. winds; and W. N.W. currents are liable to sweep a ship round Cape St. Roque to the westward, which has frequently occurred.* * The transports with the ordnance stores on board, for the army of Monte Video, in 1807, by crossing tlie equator too far to the westward, were carried so far in this direction by the currents, that they could not get to the southward of Cape St. Augustine, and were twice obliged to stand to the northward, into variable winds K 2 68 BRAZIL COAST — PASSAGES OF SHIPS. Crossing the Equator in Ion. 30° W. Outward-bound ships touching at St. Salvador in any month of the year, may, after leaving it, proceed to the southward without difficulty ; for the winds mostly draw to E.S.E. in lat. 13°or 14° S., even in the most unfavourable season, and they are fre- quently variable near the coast, with land breezes at times. About Cape Frio, the prevailing winds are north-easterly all the year, though often variable. Sea and land breezes are usually experienced in the entrance to Rio Janeiro. Tlie experience of the following ships may be useful in determining the best mode of making the passage: — PASSAGES OF SHIPS. THE KING GEORGE, 1st June 1792, crossed the equator in Ion. 30° W. with the view of getting quickly into the S.E. trade, but being in the stream of the equato- rial current, she was carried greatly to the westward, and saw the land about Cape Roque at 6 p.m., 6th June, bearing from S.S.E. to S.W. by S. ; having steered South 4^ miles till 6 p.m. she tacked to the N.E., Cape Roque bearing S.S.E., a remark- able hummock South, breakers on Cape Roque shoal S. by W., distant 3 or 4 miles, and oft' the land 8 or 9 leagues. She stood from hence, close hauled to regain the variable winds in North latitude, in order to make easting, which considerably pro- longed her passage to India. Crossing the Equator in Ion. 35° W. Salinas Bank. Route past Fernando Noronha. THE ACTIVE, bound to Pernambuco, passed Cape de Verde Islands in Ion. 31^° W., and on the 4th March 1811, she crossed the equator in Ion. 35° VV., and after- wards made the coast of Brazil far to the West of Cape Roque. March 25th, a pilot came oft', and carried her into Parrazira Bay, where she procured another pilot to conduct her to Pernambuco. Coasting along to the eastward, with land breezes at times, the boat was daily sent on shore for provisions, and she anchored in the night, or when the wind was contrary, as the tide or current ran mostly to the westward. Salinas Bank was found to extend parallel to the coast a great way* to the westward of Cape Roque, being a steep coral reef above and under water, with a channel of 1 to 2 miles broad between it and the shore : here the pilot got the Active once aground, and at another time into 2^ fathoms. By crossing the equator too far West, and con- sequently getting far to leeward of Cape Roque, this ship's passage was so much pro- longed, as to render her voyage unprofitable, which occasioned a suit at law between the freighters and proprietors of the ship. THE GENERAL STUART, August 19th, 1803, lost N.E. trade in lat. 14° N., Ion. 27° VV. ; was then perplexed with light breezes from .S. to S. S.W. and stood to the S.E. On the 31st, in lat. 6° N., Ion. 15° W., stood to the westward till in lat. 1° N., Ion. 27° W. September 10th, the wind then veering to S.S.E. saw Fernando No- ronha, and anchored there on the 15th, The well being nearly dry, and a high surf, procured only 9 butts of water at this place ; sailed 19th, and made the Brazil coast on the 20th, in lat. 7° 10' S. ; on the 21st and 22nd, the wind at S.S.E. to S.E., tacked several times at 5 or 6 miles from the shore ; at noon 22d, in lat. 7° 48' S., the wind veered to E.S.E. and E. by S., stood to the southward, and saw the coast no more. to regain easting, after having made two fruitless attempts to get into the regular S.E. trade. This happened in May and June. * The Brazil pilot says 30 leagues, in a N.W. direction. BRAZIL COAST — PASSAGES OF SHIPS. 69 THE WARREN HASTINGS, May 5tli, 1803, lost north-east tra3e in lat. 9° 30' craziicoa^., N., Ion. 23° 40' W. and 2;ol S. E. trade 21st, in lat. 2° N., Ion. 25° VV. The trade ""dentar being scant, made the Brazil coast 28th, in lat. 8° 30' S. ; on the 29th, the wind veer- gustinc' ing more easterly, lost sight of the coast in lat. 9° S. soundings from 25 to 40 fathoms. Whilst in sight of the land, had THE TELLICHERRY, May 10th, 1802, lost north-east trade in lat. 7° N., Ion. isos. 25° W., and got S.E. trade 14th, 'in lat. 3° N., Ion. 27° W. ; had the trade far south- ^°2Z" erly, and saw Fernando Noronha 20th ; tacked to north-eastward for 30 liours ; saw Noronha. the island again 22d, and passed to leeward of it; saw the Brazil coast 24th, and was obliged to tack frequently near it for several days, the wind south-easterly ; in lat. 8° 6' S. on the 30th, with a steady wind at S.E. and S.E. by E., was enabled to stand to the southward without tacking again. Brazil Coast, made near Olinda. THE CUFFNELLS, May 28th, 1802, lost north-east trade in lat. 8^° N., Ion. 22° W., and got S.E. trade June 4th, in lat. 5° N., Ion. 21° W. From the equator, had a current setting W., and W. by N. from 30 to 52 miles daily, till the coast of Brazil was in sight 14th, in lat. 8° S. ; tacked to the N.E. and stood on this tack near two days, then tacked to the southward, and saw the land no more. THE SIR EDWARD HUGHES, May 23d, 1802, lost north-east trade in lat. 1802. 6° N., Ion. 23° W., and got the wind at S.S.E. 25th, in lat. 5° N., Ion. 23° 30' W. f°;'^lZ" The trade kept far South, and the current set westward strong. June 2d, saw Fer- Noronha and nando Noronha, made several tacks till the Brazil coast was seen about Cape St. gustlne. " Augustine, June 7th ; had some hard squalls here. In lat. 13° S. the wind veered to E.S.E. and to E. by N., June 13th, in 17° S. latitude. THE HENRY DUNDAS, October 20th, 1797, lost north-east trade in sight of 1757. Cape de Verde Islands, and crossed the equator November 4th, in Ion. 30° 30' W., cd''i!i'ion"3o° with a scant S.E. trade. On the 8th, made the Brazil coast in 6° 50' S. about Cape ^tv y^»[;'» Ledo. The wind became more favourable near the land. coast made near Cape Ledo. THE BOMBAY CASTLE and fleet, June 27th, 1795, at 3 a.m. in about lat. 7° uoutefrom S., had 18 fathoms on the Brazil coast, and tacked ; the wind continued from south- s^i,™^'" ^'' eastward, with very little current, till she arrived at St. Salvador, July 7th. They had 6|° westerly current from Palma, Canary Islands, to the coast of Brazil. THE EUROPE and fleet, October Ifith, 1805, lost north-east trade in lat. 11° N., Ion. 28° W., and got south-east trade 26th, in lat. 4° N., Ion. 29° VV. November 4th, in lat. 6° S. saw the Brazil coast ; had the wind near the land at E. by S., and E.S.E., stood to the southward along the coast; on the 7th, were in 18 and 19 fathoms ofl' Pernambuco Point : on the 8th, in lat. 10° 40' S. the wind veered from E. by S. to E. by N. and E.N.E., no land in sight; worked into the Bay of All Saints on the lOth, the wind at E. and E. by S. By crossing the equator too far West, the Company's ship Britannia, and King Two ships George transport, were wrecked on the Roccas Shoal in the morning of the 1st g"„'g'f„''J^,, November, and several otlier ships in the fleet narrowly escaped this dangerous ward. shoal. 70 INSTRUCTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS FOR NAVIGAT- ING THE RIO DE LA PLATA, OR RIVER PLATE. BY CAPTAIN HEYWOOD, OF THE ROYAL NAVY. Winds. AT RIO DE LA PLATA ENTRANCE, the prevailing winds during the summer months, from September to March, are north-easterly, with tolerably clear weather over head, but a dense atmosphere near the horizon. These winds veer gradually to the eastward as you advance up the river : and about the full and change of the moon, strong breezes from south-eastward are common at this season, accom- panied with rain and foul weather. At Buenos Ayres, during the summer months, the S.E. winds are generally fresh in the day-time, veering round to northward in the night. During the winter months from March to September, the prevailing winds at the entrance of the Plata are S.W., or more westerly; but up the river, more generally from the northward than the southward of West. In the winter is the best weather at Buenos Ayres, for the winds being chiefly from N.W. to S.W., the water is smooth and the communication can be kept up between the shore and the shipping with more facility. The weather is sometimes foggy, but fogs are most common in the months of July, August, and September, prevailing more at the entrance of the river, and as far up as the S.E. tail of the Ortiz, than above these banks. Tides and cur- As it cannot be said regular tides exist in the Plata, but currents as uncertain in their duration as they are irregular in their rate and direction, no certain allowance can be made for them ; therefore, a groimd log should be used, to find the course made good and the distance run. The tides, when the weather is settled, and the winds moderate, seldom rise or fall more than 5 or 6 feet ; though at Buenos Ayres, 8 miles distant from the city, we found in the Nereus, when the winds were strong at N.W., sometimes only 15 feet water; while with strong breezes from E.S.E. to S.S.W., the depth was upwards of 5 fathoms : but, except on such extraordinary occasions, we had between 17 and 22 feet water.* The Plata has many singularities ; which arise, perhaps, from its formation being different from any other known river. Its entrance being wide and shallow, it is affected by every change of wind in a remarkable manner ; that a shift of wind may be predicted almost to a certainty, by observing carefully the state of the barometer, and the set of the currents, which usually shift before the wind. In calm weather the currents are generally very weak, setting up and down the river alternately, and nearly as regular as tides. When the winds are variable, the currents are equally so ; and I have known the ship to be current rode four diflerent ways in less than six hours. When the current comes in from eastward along the North bank of the Plata, a North- * I have heard, however, of the river having been almost dried up, across from Buenos Ayres to Colonia, during heavy westerly gales. rents. RIO DE LA PLATA. 71 easterly wind may generally be expected to follow, and at the same time if the wind has been previously to the S.E. the barometer will fall a little; but much more, if the transition be quick from S.W., without stopping in the south-eastern quarter. When the wind continues in the N.E. quarter, proportionate to its strength, the mercury is more depressed than with any other wind, and then there is usually a set into the river on the North bank of the river, and out on the opposite bank. Indeed, whilst the winds are between N.E. and S.S.E. the current generally runs to the westward, past Montevideo, though without much augmenting the depth of water off that place, but filling the river above the banks. Winds between N. N.E. and W.N. VV. make the water lowest; the out-set being then strongest along the South bank of the river, past the Points del Indio and Memo- ria ; but very inconsiderable along the North bank. Prior to a S.W. gale, or Pampero, the weather is usually very unsettled, with un- steady and variable winds in the North and N.W. quarters; preceded by a consider- able fall of the mercury, though it usually rises a little again before the wind shifts to the S.W., and often continues to rise, even though the wind may increase from that quarter. Before these set in at Buenos Ayres, the current runs up and fills the river unusually high ; at the same time, as strong an out-set is experienced along the North bank, which continues whilst the winds are strongest from W.S.W. to South, seeming to prove, that these winds force up from the southward a large accumulated body of water past Cape St. Antonio, which can only find a passage out again by the North shore, where they increase the depth of water, as well as up the river, and particularly in the shallow harbour of Montevideo. Whilst these S.W. winds blow, the air is cold, and the atmosphere clear and elastic, in a degree rarely to be met with in any other part of the world. They are generally succeeded by some days of fine serene weatlier; the wind continuing moderate from the southward, or varying to the eastward. I have never known the velocity of the tide or current in any part of the river to exceed 3 knots per hour ; although it is I'eported sometimes to have run 6 to 7 miles an hour. As the winds outside the river, and particularly about Cape St. Mary, are most fre- capest. .Mary. quently from the north-eastward and northward, except when the S.E. summer, and S.W. winter gales blow, about the times of new and full moon, I consider it most advisable for ships bound into the river, to get in with the land about the latitude of that cape, which is 34° 40' S., and its Ion. 53° 54' W. of Greenwich, or 2° 9' E. of Mount Video.* In lat. 33° S. the bank of Soundings extends off the land full .36 leagues, where the Bank oi somui. depth of water in Ion. 50° 20'W. is 94 fathoms, and the quality of the bottom dark '"S'- olive-coloured mud, or ooze, as it is all along the outer verge of the bank. In lat. 34° S. and 30 leagues from the land, the bank is steep ; and the soundings decrease quickly in standing to the westward, to 25 fathoms 20 leagues from the land. In lat. 34° 20' S.,lon. 51° 50' VV., or about 30 leagues East of the Great Castellos Rock, the depth is 63 or 64 fathoms dark mud. In standing for the land, between the Great Castellos and Cape St. Mary, the water shoals in a short distance from GO to 25 fathoms ; and the quality of the bottom changes to sand, which grows coarser as you approach the coast; and, as far as 7 miles off shore, is intermixed with shells. This bottom is found only in and to the northward of the latitude of Cape St. Mary, except very close in with this cape. * M. Barral, Capitaine de Corvette, who surveyed the Rio de la Plata in 1830-32, makes Cape St. Mary in lat. 34" 39' 1" N., Ion. 54° 9' 38" W. of Greenwich, and 2° 3' 25" E. of Monte Video Cathedral. Var. IT 7'E. 72 RIO DE LA PLATA. To the southward of 34° 40' S, the bottom is chiefly mud, intermixed with fine sand or gravel; and if a ship happen to be set to the southward of Cape St. Mary, as she hauls in for the land, yet keeps to the northward of Isle Lobos, she will get out of fine sand into dark mud ; which is the quality of the bottom (chiefly) between Cape St. Mary and Lobos, as well as 8 or 9 leagues to the eastward of that island ; and the depth of water between them is generally 26 to 20 fathoms. In lat. 35° S., Ion. 52° W., or 42 leagues ti-ue East of Lobos, there is about 90 fathoms water, dark sandy bottom ; from thence the bank of soundings takes a S.W. direction. East of Lobos 27 leagues, the depth is 25 fathoms; and in steering in, on its parallel, the same depth nearly continues till close to that island. But if set a little to the southward of Lobos, the water will shoal probably to 10 fathoms on a hard sandy or gravelly ridge that extends all the way from the English bank, in its parallel as far as Ion. 52° 30' W., or full 18 leagues to the eastward of the meridian of Lobos. Thus, the approach to this river cannot be considered dangerous, if proper care be taken in navigating, and due attention paid to the lead and the course steered. Captain Bouverie gives the following remarks : — Cape St. Mary. "CAPE ST. MARY is a low point, fronted by rocks, and the direction of the coast to the westward of this cape, becomes more westerly than at any other part north- ward of it. About 6 miles North of it there is a house, with a row of trees northward of the house, probably a fence of high prickly pear-bushes, which is very remarkable. " About a mile South of the house, there is a bluflf point, with a few rocks at the foot, which is remarkable, being different from the rest of the coast, the general cha- racter of which is a sandy beach. You cannot fail knowing the cape by these marks, v\'hen running down the coast near it : but at a considerable distance off you will not perceive them.* " To the northward of the cape, between it and Palma, there are 10 or 11 fathoms at a little distance from the shore. " Ships generally make the land with N. or N.E. winds, therefore it is best to keep in the latitude of the cape or a little to the northward of it, till you get soundings, as the currents set to the S.W., but do not make the land North of the cape, for although there seems no real danger, yet the water in many places is shoal a long way off the land, and would alarm strangers. " In lat. 33° 27' S., Ion. 52° 9' VV., there is a shoal where we found 9 fathoms water; which is probably a ridge, running in that parallel of latitude all the way to the shore. In lat. 34° S. is some tolerably high land, with a Spanish fortress on it, called Fort Teresa; it is square, with bastions at the angles, and stands about a mile from the beach. About 6 leagues N.N.E. from it, a mark is set up, as the termination of the Spanish territories. Being in the lat. of Cape St. Mary, and having got ground in 28 or 30 fathoms water, fine sand and shells, you may reckon yourself 20 leagues oft' shore ; with from 15 to 20 fathoms, sand and clay mixed, you are not far off the land. When you have not seen the land before night, be sure to keep to the northward of the cape by your reckoning, as the current sets to the southward, with North and N.E. winds : with South and S.W. winds, it runs strong the other way." Agreeing with Captain Bouverie, that it is generally advisable to make the land about Cape St. Mary, I would recommend, if the wind be between S.E.and N.N.E., * The Nereus tacked in 12| fathoms water, the prickly pear-hedge, on with Cape St. Mary, bearing North by compass, the breakers stretching to the S.E. of the Cape N. 7° E., and her distance from the cape about 3 miles. RIO DE LA PLATA. 73 to enter the river on the North side of the English Bank, passing Lohos on either side, according to the wind and state of tiie weather. There is a good passage between Lobos and the main, having 14 fathoms water. LOBOS ISLAND, is in lat. 35° 1' S., Ion. 54° 30' W., or 1° 24' East of the Mount Lobos uiand. Video.* It bears about true S.VV. from Cape St. Mary, distance 41 miles. Variation off it, 13° easterly, in 1813. When within 3 or 4 leagues of Cape St. Mary, in 17 or 10 fathoms, S.S.W. by com- Directions pass, is a fair course to steer for passing outside of Lobos in the night; because with the wind from N.E. or eastward, the set along shore into the river must be guarded against. Steering this S.S.W. course, the depth of water will increase to 20 and 22; and in some casts, perhaps, to 25 or 27 fathoms, if you are set neither to the westward nor to the southward of it ; and the bottom will change, first to sandy mud, then to dark blue mud, as you approach the lat. of Lobos. If set to the southward, in steering S.S.W. you will not deepen so much ; the bottom will keep sandy ; and when you approach the lat. of Lobos, you will have no more than 19, 18, and 17 fathoms; but if you are set to the southward of Lobos a few miles, you will have hard casts of from 16 to 10 fathoms, and may rest assured of being on the parallel of the English Bank, and may therefore make a west-northerly course true, till you find the bottom soften ; as it is all dark-blue or greenish mud in the channel between the foul ridge of the English Bank, and the north shore, all the way up to Monte Video, in the fair way from Lobos. When off Lobos, if the weather threaten, and likely to blow, you will find safe anchorage in the harbour of Maldonado, sheltered from southerly winds by Maidonado. the island of Goritti, which bears N. 42° W. true, 11 or 12 miles from Lobos. f " Capt. Bouverie observes, that the Spanish surveys of this bay, mark sufficient depth of water for any ship between any part of the island and the main : however, it cannot be safely entered but by small vessels, except to the westward ; and you must not go farther in, than to bring the N.W^ point of Goritti to bear S.S.W. 4 W., or S.W. by S. by compass, with 4^ or 5 fathoms stiff" clay. With southerly winds, there is in the East passage a heavy swell ; and the water, from the ground being uneven, breaks almost the whole way across in bad weather. The Diomede, 50-gun ship, passed through it to the anchorage before its dangers were known, and had not less than 18 feet; but there are places with only 1^ fathoms, very irregular soundings. There is a bed of rocks to the South of Goritti, from which the Tower of Maldonado bears North, and the outer part of Point del Este E.N.E. ^ E." " In the direct line of the entrance of the bay from the westward, lies a bed of rocks, having only 3, and 2f fathoms on some of the patches ; from which the N.E. point of Goritti bears E. \ S. N.W. point of ditto, E. by S. | S. S.W. point of ditto, S.E. by S. Point Ballena bears W. by N, ^ N., and the hill of Pan de Azucar, just within the extreme of Point Ballena." " In mid-channel between these rocks and the island, there are 6 and 7 fathoms; and their distance from the island is about f of a mile: there are 7 fathoms close to them, all round the western side. The watering place is on the main, close by a l)at- Watering tery; and the stream loses itself in the sand, except when swollen by heavy rains; p'"" you have to roll the casks about 60 yards over the sand, and the water is very good." Having Lobos bearing N. by W. by compass, distant 3 or 4 miles, you will have Directions. * By M. Barral, its longitude is 54° 54' W. of Greenwich, and 1° 21' E. of Monte Video Cathedral. t The distance is only between 6 and 7 miles by M. Barral's chart. L, 74 RIO DE LA PLATA. about 18 fathoms; and in making a compass course W. i S. by ground log, having due reo-ard to the wind and current at the time, you will make the island of Flores a-head. In this track the soundings will gradually decrease from 18 to 12 fathoms due South of Black Point, and to 7 or 8 fathoms when you approach within 9 or 10 miles of Flores. Though Captain Bouverie says, " you may run quite up to Monte Video, either by night or day, by making a due West course, first trying the current to make allowance for it;" and though I have frequently done it myself, yet I would not recommend it as a general rule to be followed by strangers. Great care and attention to the course made good, and to the soundings, are indispensably requisite to those who attempt to conduct vessels during the night, in any part of this river; and even these have often been insufficient to save ships from destruction. Flores Island. FLORES, beai's truc W. 4° 30' N. from Lobos, distant 52 miles ; it extends nearly N.E. and S.VV., having a small hummock in the middle, and one at each end, that to the S.W. being 39 feet high. Between these the land is low and marshy, and over- flowed sometimes between the central and N.E. hummock. It may be seen at the distance of 5 or 6 leagues from a ship's deck, in clear weather.* There is good anchorage all round this island; but a reef extends in a N.W. direc- tion from the north point about a mile. Seals and sea-lions, also various aquatic birds, resort to this small island as well as to Lobos; and, in the months of August and September, great quantities of very excellent eggs may be procured. With the wind easterly, boats may land on the western side of Flores, particularly in a small cove caretas Rocks, vei'y near the S.W. part of the island. F'rom Flores, W.N.W., the Caretas Rocks, seen above water, are distant about 5 miles, and there are 5 fathoms between them. English Bank. Truc South, at the distance of 11 miles from F'lores, lies the North part of the English Bank, having on it in that lat. 35° 8' S., about 12 feet water : the depth of water between Flores and the English Bank, is 7 fathoms all the way across, to within a very little distance of both. The English Bank, in lat. 35° 12' S. generally has breakers; and, with a low river, is above water in some places. Its extent to the southward has not yet been accurately defined, and for 70 or 80 miles to the south- eastward of it, the ground is said to be foul and uneven, and has not been explored. Between the Archimedes Bank, and the English Bank, there is a swatch, about 5 miles wide, with 5 fathoms water, according to Capt. Beaufort of the Royal Navy, who explored these banks in 1807. Archimedes Bank. ARCHIMEDES BANK, the shoalest part with 2| fathoms, is 4 miles in ex- tent about North and South by compass ; and has 4 fathoms all round. The centre of it is in lat. 35° 12' S.,and Monte Video bears true N. 22° W. from it, distant 20 miles. Besides this bank, there is a small knoll in lat. 35° 14' S., which bears true South from Monte Video, 21 miles, with not more than 3^ fathoms water on it, and about 4 fathoms all round. Passing to the southward of Flores, at the distance of 2 miles, you have GA or 7 fathoms, and may steer W. ^ S. by compass to pass Point Braba, which bears true W. 4° N., distant 4 leagues from the S.W. end of Flores. This point is bolder to, than the land to the westward between it and the town of Monte Video, and may be passed close, in 4^ or 5 fathoms, at 1 mile or 1| miles distance. The best anchorage for a frigate off the town of Monte Video, is with Point Braba bearing by * Since 1826 there has been a revolving light on the S.W. part of the island, the height of which above the sea is, according to Purdy, 99 feet. RIO DE LA PLATA. iO compass E. by N. | N., the cathedral N.E. by N., and the Mount al)out I\.W. by N., in 3| or 4 fathoms, 2 miles or more from the town, with the harbour quite open. The bottom is all soft mud. MONTE VIDEO HARBOUR is very shoal, having only from 14 to 19 feet water; Montevideo. but the bottom being very soft, vessels receive no damage by grounding. Capt. Bouverie says, "the wind at S.S.W. blows right into the harbour, causing a good deal of sea, and occasions the water to rise a fathom or more. "In a long continuance of fine weather, the tides sometimes, though not often, assume the appearance of regularity. They are governed entirely by the winds, and southerly winds cause the water to run out on the North shore strongest: fine weather and a N.W. wind, make the water lowest. It is usual in Monte Video harbour, to have an anchor to the S.E., and another to the S.W., and to take one cable in al)aft from the northward ; for the water forced in by the southerly wind, sometimes rushes out with astonishing rapidity ; when the anchor to the north is of the greatest service." The Mount is in lat. 34° 53' S., Ion. 56° 3' W. of Greenwich ;* being 1° 24' W. of the island Lobos, and 2° 10' E. from the cathedral of Buenos Ayres, by the observations of Captains Heywood and Beaufort of the royal navy, who surveyed this place to- gether, and observed upon the Mount. Givry's memoir states the cathedral to be in Ion. 56° 20|' W. Captain Foster, in 1828, during his scientific voyage in H.M.S. Chanticleer, made Rat Island near the S.E. angle of the fort in lat. 34° 54' 25" S., by mean of 32 observations. Ion. 56° 10' 30''' W. On the summit of the mount there is a fortified building, whose base is 42 feet 6 inches by 20 feet, used sometimes for a light- house. The diameter of the lantern is 10 feet 6 inches, and its elevation above the level of the sea 450 feet. At the base of the mount there are several runs of excellent water, particularly in two small smooth sandy bays, at the S.VV. part of it, where ships in the outer road may supply themselves with ease ; and another on the East side of the mount, abreast of Rat Island, adapted to ships in tiie harbour. Giving the preference to the passage on the North side of the English Bank, especially with the wind between S.S.E. and N.N.W. on passing Lobos, because it may be expected to shift, and probably round by the North to the westward ; though perhaps not before that wind, and the in-set together might carry a ship up to Monte Video: yet, if the wind should be to the north-westward at the time of making the Fassa^e up i>y land, it may be expected to shift next to westward or S.W., and, therefore, a ship of'thrriver. "^ should not strive to beat up round Lobos in the North channel against an out-set, but stand at once over towards Cape St. Antonio, where, by the time she could stretch across, she would most likely find a S.S.W. wind and N.W. current to run up with, along a weather shore, to Buenos Ayres ; or to Monte Video, if bound thither, passing to the westward of the bank of Archimedes, in about 5 fathoms water ; or, if the Mount should be seen in time, it ought never to bear to the westward of North by compass, till approached within 5 leagues. In standing to tiie southward from abreast of Cape St. Mary, with the wind south- westerly, a ship will have from 18 to 24 or 25 fathoms when in the latitude of Lobos and about 12 or 13 leagues to the eastward of it; and making a S.S.E. course, the water will then shoal to 18, 16, 12, or 11 fathoms in crossing the ridge, which here- about is generally composed of grey speckled sand mixed with stones; after which the depth increases gradually to 35 or 36 fathoms, over a sandy bottom, in lat. * Lon. 56° 16' W. by M. Barral. L 2 76 RIO DE LA PLATA. 35° 40' S., Ion. 5.3° 25' W. In lat. .36° S., and 15 or 20 miles farther to the eastward, you will deepen oft" the hank entirely. Having got as far to the southward as 30° S., you may consider yourself in the fair way for proceeding up on the South side of the English Bank, and if the wind serve, a true West course will be proper. In lat. 36° S., the depth of water on the meridian of Cape St. Mary is 38 fathoms, the bottom fine grey sand like ground pepper. Steer to westward on this parallel of 36° S. the depth will decrease to 19 or 18 fathoms true South of Lobos ; and for 10 leagues further, you have from this depth to 15 fathoms. But if from the lat. of 36° S. on the meridian of Lobos, you make a W. by N., or W. by N. ^ N. course true, you will shoal the water to 8, or 7^ fathoms in lat. 35° 45' S., on the meridian of the English Bank. The quality of the bottom generally in this track is sandy, mixed with small stones ; and the nearer you approach to the ridge of the English Bank, it is intermixed with bits of shell, and sometimes with clay or mud. From lat. 35° 45' S., due South of the English Bank, a W.N.W. true course to lat. 35° 33' S. will bring the Mount Video to bear t7-ue North, in about 6^ fathoms mud, at the distance of 13 leagues from Point Piedras ; and from this position, the same true course may be made, to raise the land about Point del Indio, if bound up to Buenos Ayres, or N.W., or more northerly, to get sight of the Mount, having regard to the set of current, up or down the river, that you may neither be horsed on the S.E. tail of the Ortiz Flats, nor on the western part of Archimedes Bank. The bottom above this is soft mud, or clay in the channels, fit for safe anchorage. In lat. 35° 30' S., or thereabout, and due South of the Archimedes Bank, or some miles further to the eastward, I have been told by some persons they have had as little as 4 fathoms hard ground. From Monie Ships leavlug Moutc Vidco to proceed up to Buenos Ayres must be very attentive BifelwrAyres. ^^ ^'^^ lead, aud the course steered across the river must be very carefully regulated by the set of current at the time. If the weather be sufiiciently clear, the Mount is the most sure guide, keeping it by an azimuth compass, on the magnetic bearing ]N,E. by N. ; and when it sinks to an eye in the top, a more westerly course may be steered, to raise the land about Point del Indio. This direction is intended to apply parti- cularly to frigates or any ships drawing more than 16 feet water, because it is not advisable for them to cross the tail of the Ortiz Flats much further to the westward than a true S.W. course from the Mount will take them ; for with a low river, I have had barely 3^ fathoms in the Nereus, with the Mount bearing N. 35° E. by compass, distant 10 leagues. At other times, I have sunk the Mount on a N. 5.3° E. magnetic bearing, and had as much as 3^ fathoms water ; but the river was then well filled. Ortiz Bank. On the south-eastern part of the Ortiz Bank, which is there hard stony sand, there was in 1813, part of a mast, or beacon, about 12 or 13 feet high. It is in lat. 35° 2' 15" S., and 0° 45' VV. of Mount Video ; from which it bears true W. 14° S. 37 miles. There is about 12 or 13 feet alongside of it, 3 fathoms 2 miles to the eastward of it, but not more than 10 or 12 feet, as far as 3 miles, S.W. of it. Point del Indio bears from it true S. 33° W. 16 or 17 miles. To the distance of full 17 miles south-eastward of the Ortiz Beacon, there is generally no more and often less than 3^ fathoms, the bottom tough clay nearest the bank, and in some places, farther to the south-eastward, soft mud, not more than 3| fathoms. After sinking the Mount about N.E. by N., and having 31 fathoms, a W.S.W. course will raise the land about Point del Indio to the eye at the masthead, if the KIO DE LA PLATA. 77 weather is clear, and probably you will not have more than 3.^ or at most 3^ fathoms. The Mount and the land near Point del Indio are sometimes visible at the same time. POINT DEL INDIO is in lat. about 35° 16' S., and 0^ 56' W. of Mount Video, Poim dci from which it bears true S. 63° W,, distant 50 miles. Tliere is little more than 3 fa- '"''"' thorns at the distance of 10 or 1 1 miles off shore, when the river is in a mean state ; farther to the southward, and off Point Piedras, there is only that depth 14 or 15 miles off shore. Very great caution, therefore, is required in approaching it, and a constant look-out should be kept for the land, as it is very low, and cannot be seen farther than 12 or 13 miles from the deck of a frigate in clear weather. When the land is barely raised to an eye 19 or 20 feet above the surface of the water, a W. N. W. magnetic course will lead along shore, between it and the South part of the Ortiz, which is distant about 14 miles from it; and between them there is nowhere more water than 3j, but mostly 3^ fathoms. With a high river I have had 3f fathoms ; the nearer the Ortiz, the deeper the water. In steering up W. N. W. with the land seen from the deck, if clear weather, you will have 3^ or 3^ fathoms, yet if the river is low, perhaps some casts of three fathoms, and raise a remarkable clump of trees called Embudo, which are much taller than the rest, Embudo highest at the West end, and lie in lat. 35° 6' S., Ion. 1° 16' 30" West of Mount Video, '"'"*' or 0° 57' 30" East of the cathedral of Buenos Ayres. At some distance to the westward of the Embudo Trees, there is another clump about the same height, but these being highest at the East end, are sufficiently distinguished not to be mistaken for the true Embudo. When in 3^ or 3;^ fathoms, the Embudo Trees bearing by compass W. S. W., the S. E. end of the Chico Bank will bear W. N. W. or thereabouts, 10 or 11 miles; you must now determine, from the water your ship draws, the direction of the wind and state of the weather, whether you will pass between the Chico Bank and the shore, or between the Ortiz and the Chico. I have passed up and down several times between the Chico and the South shore in the Nereus, lightened in her draft to 18 feet 3 inches, but I would never attempt it again from choice, now I am better acquainted with the middle channel between the Chico and the Ortiz, and have every reason to believe that the Middle Ground some charts lay down in it does not exist. A ship not drawing more than 15 feet, may take either passage, and ought perhaps to prefer that to the southward of the Chico Bank, particularly if the wind be well to the southward, as she might take her soundings from the weather shore, and, keeping in somewhat more than her own draft, run up along it; and by not deepening above 3 fathoms, would ensure being to the southward of the Chico. The S. E. end of the Chico Bank bears from the Embudo Trees N. 32° E. true dis- chko Bank. taut 10 miles, and E. 9° N., 13 miles from Atalaya Church. Its latitude there is 34° 5& 30" S., Ion. 1° 9' W. of the Mount Video. This bank runs in the direction of N. 52° W. true, or N. 65° W. by compass, about 13 miles to its N. W. end, which is in lat. 34° 4B' 50" S., and 0° 47' East of Buenos Ayres Cathedral. From this N. W. end in 14 feet water, Atalaya Church bears S. 14° W., distant 11 miles; and Point Stantiago, forming the Ensenada di Barragan, bears W. 4° N., distant 14 miles from it. The breadth of the Chico does not exceed 2 miles, or perhaps ]^ miles, and its inner edge is about 9 miles from the shore. The water between it and the shore is nowhere more than 3^^ fathoms, and the deepest water is along the inner edge of the shoal, at the distance of | a mile from it, or less in some places. About mid-way between it and the shore there is 2| fathoms. On some parts of the Chico there is very little water, 78 RIO DE LA PLATA. and within the limits I have assigned to it, nowhere more than 14 feet. There was for some years, the mast of a vessel, called the Pandora, which was wrecked on this shoal in lat. 34° 54' S., about 6 miles from its S. E. end, which proved an excellent beacon to guide ships passing it on either side; but it has disappeared. It is very necessary that three buoys should be placed on this dangerous shoal, to mark its centre and each end. Point St. jago. To ships drawing less than 15 feet, it is only further necessary to recommend care and attention on approaching Point St. Jago, which forms bushy and distinct ; and when it is brought to bear to the south-westward, haul out into the stream of 3^^ fathoms, to round outside the Spit, which runs about N.W. by compass from Point St. Jago at least 10 or 11 miles, its extreme point, in 2 fathoms, being about 5 miles from the shore. When two remarkable trees on Point Lara are brought to bear S. by E. ^ E., or S. S. E. by compass, yon are past the Spit. This mark will also lead a ship of that draught of water clear to the westward of the Spit, in running in towards Ensenada. After passing the Spit off Point St. Jago, in 3^ fathoms, a VV. by N. northerly course by compass will lead up to the outer road of Buenos Ayres, where any ship may safely anchor in the water she draws, if the river is low. To sail be- FHgates or vessels drawing more than 16 feet water, should barely raise the land oVtirand about Poiut del Indio to the eye on the deck, and borrow nearest the Ortiz : more par- chico Banks, ticularly when the Embudo Trees are brought to bear as far as S. W. by W. magnetic ; for with the Embudo bearing from S. W. to S. S. W., the bottom is flat, off to 3 fathoms, full 7 miles from the shore, and chiefly hard clay. Therefore, when the Embudo Trees bear W. S. W. by compass, and you are about 9 or 10 miles off shore in 3^ fathoms, if you have a leading wind haul N. W. by W. or more northerly, as may be required to clear the S. E. tail of the Chico, and you will soon deepen your water to 4 fathoms and more in the middle channel, between the Chico and the Ortiz Shoals. The fair course through between them is about N. W. by W. ^ W. magnetic ; and in mid-chan- nel, the land can but just be distinguished from the quarter-deck of a frigate. When the Embudo Trees bear S. 20° W. by compass, you will be abreast of the S. E. end of the Chico, and may either take your shoal soundings along its northern or outer edge, to about 3f fathoms, if the wind is southerly, or if the wind be northerly or easteily, borrow into a convenient depth along the southern edge of the Ortiz. I believe the breadth of this middle channel may be 5 or 6 miles, the depth of water from 4 to 6^, and even 6 fathoms in the fair-way about the N. \V. part of it, and abreast that end of the Chico. The quality of the ground all through this channel is generally soft mud, fit for safe anchorage. The N. W. pitch of the Chico Bank being passed, and the depth of water 5 or 5^ fathoms, steer by compass W. by N. ^ N., or VV. by N. for Buenos Ayres, taking care not to shoal under 3f off Ensenada till Point Lara Trees bear S. S. E. A little more • than half way from Point Lara to Buenos Ayres, there are two other remarkable trees. Anchorage at BUENOS AYRES, — whcn moored off it in the Nereus in 19 feet water, soft mud Buenos Ayres. |Ijq^j,jj,^ these remarkable trees bore by compass S. 17° E., the Cathedral S. (J7° W., and the spire of the Recoleta Convent S. 76° W. ; observed lat. 34° 34' 30" S., Ion. by the moon, 58° 2' VV. of Greenwich, at the distance of 8 miles from the Cathedral. Variation of the compass 10J° Easterly in 1813. RIO DE LA PLATA. 79 Description of 13 uoys placed, in 1 823, on the Chico and Ortiz Jian/cs, Spit of Enscnada, and Sank of Point Lara, by Capt. Willis, of H. 31. S. lirazen, with Sailing Directions. On the Chico Bank, there are four red buoys, one at S.E. extremity in 3 fathoms muddy bottom, Magdalena church bearing from it S. 15° W. by compass. One on the N.W. extremity. Point Atalaya, bearing S. 24° W. muddy bottom. The third is placed in 2j fathoms, VV.N.W. from the one on the S.E. extremity, distant 4 miles. The fourth in 1^ fathoms, 3 miles N, 15° West of the third. On the Ortiz, there are four black buoys ; the first, in 3 fathoms, bears N.E. from the one on the S.E. end of the Chico. The second, in 3 fathoms, bears N. ^ E. from the one on the N.W. end of the Chico. The third, in 3 fathoms, to the N.N.E. of the one in the centre of the Cliico. These, with the buoys on the Chico, form the Large Channel between the banks of 4, 5^, and sometimes of G fathoms, according to the state of the river. The fourth is placed at the S.E. extremity of the Ortiz, 5^7 miles E.S.E. of the old wreck, called the Aguila Volante, Point Indio bearing S.S.W. Point Santiago, or Ensenada Spit ; a black buoy is placed on tiie Spit in 3 fathoms water, Point Santiago bearing from it S. 28° E., and Point Lara S. 53° W. On the Bank of Lara, or part of Ensenada Spit, a black buoy is placed in 3 fathoms, Point Lara bearing S.E. | S. and Point Santiago, S. 03° E. Departing from Monte Video for Buenos Ayres, steer S.W. 30 miles, then W.S.W. till Point Indio is seen, and when it bears S.S.W. about 8 miles distant, steer N.W. At this distance you will find 3^ to 3^ fathoms, deepening to 4j and 5 fathoms gra- dually ; continue the same course until you get into 3^ fathoms, then you will be near the Oi"tiz. Here change the course to W.N.W. until arriving at the outer roads; from 5 fathoms you may perceive the buoys. The inside passage of the Chico being about 7 miles from Point Indio, steer W.N.W. until you see the farm-houses of the Magdalena, and when the second farm-house bears S.S.W. you will see the buoy on the S.E. end of the Chico, and by keeping on, will perceive the second 4 miles distant from the first W.N.W. on the southernmost part of the Chico ; and on reaching the second, continue your course with confidence, as the bank stretches to the N.W., and the third buoy is at N.N.W. After passing Ata- laya, the wood of Santiago will be seen, and after it, immediately, the point of this name ; then the buoys oft' Ensenada. On no account ought a vessel to come within 6 miles of the land after passing Point Atalaya, for Ensenada Spit extends far out, as will be seen by the buoy, which, with a smooth river, is visible at 5 miles' distance. The Atalaya may be easily distinguished by two small clumps of trees on the bank of the river, and some farm-houses with amber-trees. After seeing Ensenada, the amber-trees on Point Lara will be seen, which is the next point ; afterwards the steeples in Buenos Ayres ; then the vessels in the outer roads. Directions. 80 FROM THE COAST OF BRAZIL TOWARDS THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. PASSAGE ACROSS.— ISLANDS NEAR THE ROUTE. PASSAGE ACROSS. DURING most months of the year, the S.E. trade fails about the southern tropic or 2 or .3 degrees beyond it, where the wind is found to veer from eastward to N.E. and northward: the northerly winds prevail more than any other in the vicinity of the S.E. trade, from the coast of Brazil to the meridian of Greenwich, or a little farther eastward, and as far as lat. 34° or 35° S. When, therefore, a ship departs from the Brazil coast, or has got to the southward of the S.E. trade, she will most probably, in almost every month of the year, meet with brisk winds veering from N.E. to N.W., and sometimes to West and W.S.W. which will carry her quickly to the eastward. These variable winds keep mostly between N.E. and North, attended with smooth water and fine weather.* By running to the eastward in the track of these winds, gradually increasing the latitude as a ship proceeds, she will often make greater progress than by going to lat. 38° or 39° S. in search of westerly winds. Although here the westerly winds prevail during most months of the year, they are often very unsettled, completing a revolution of the horizon, with the course of the sun, every 2, 3, or 4 days, with intervening calms, particularly when the wind is from the S.W. quarter. It seems, therefore, inexpedient to increase the latitude more than 35° S. till a ship has reached the meridian of Greenwich ; she may then gradually proceed into 36° or 37° S. as she approaches the Cape, for the southerly winds which prevail around the Cape land from January to April, and at times in other months, extend far to the westward. In February and March, these southerly winds are frequently experienced between the Cape and the meridian of Greenwich, on which account it is prudent for a ship bound to the Cape in this season to increase her latitude to 35° or 35i° S. when she draws into East longitude. She ought then to keep in about 35|^° S. if possible, till the Cape is nearly approached, to prevent being driven to the northward of Table Bay by southerly winds. We were to touch at Table Bay, to fill up our water in the Carron, in 1798, and crossed the meridian of Greenwich, January 18th, in lat. 34° 50' S. The N.W. winds continued a day afterwards, placing us in Ion. 2° 50' E., then in lat. 34° 44' S. ; a calm followed, and was succeeded by a southerly wind, which continued variable between * When cloudy weather accompanies these northerly or N. W. winds, there is risk of a sudden shift to the S.W. or South. This happened to H.M.S. Bristol, to the Queen, and to the Anna, in January 1800. We were m lat. 31° S., Ion. 22° W., had run 230 miles the preceding 24 hours, and, with steering sails set, were running at the rate of 10 or 11 miles per hour, when at 9 p.m. in a shower, the wind shifted from N.W. to S.S.W. in an instant, taking us aback ; we lost all the light sails and booms, and the ship's head was thrown round against the N.W. sea, before the sails were trimmed, which made her plunge bowsprit and forecastle under. TRISTAN D'ACUAHA CHOUP. SI S.S. W. and S.S.E. with cloudy weather and a hi^h sea, till we made the land on the 27th. It was at times squally, and brought us under douhle reefs, which, with the scant wind, forced us daily a little to the northward, alllioujj;h we experienced no lee current till the day we made the land at Dassen, or Coney Island ; we had that day •2.!> miles of current to the northward. Distant 2° from the land, we had a strong westerly current; distant 1°, it set north-westerly ; and close in shore, in soundings from 17 to 50 fathoms between Dassen Island and Table Bay, there was a strong eddy current to the southward, with which we worked to Table Bay in 30 hours. The Polyphemus, with Admiral Murray's flag on board, fell also to the northward of Table Bay in 1807, having made the land at Dassen Island with a southerly wind on the 10th March, in a thick fog, by the help of soundings. From December to April, if it is not intended to touch at the Cape, a ship should get into lat. 37° or 38° S. about the meridian of Greenwich, and keep between 37° and 39° S. in running down her easting ; for the winds will be found as favourable for this purpose in 38° or 39° S., or probably more so, than if she were in a higher latitude. In passing the Bank of Cape Agulhas, the stream of current setting westward ought to be avoided, by keeping in lat. at least 37° S., and she should not go to the northward of this parallel in running down her easting after passing the Cape, or she may be greatly retarded by the south-easterly winds which prevail in these months to the northward of lat. 35° or 36° S. ISLANDS NEAR THE ROUTE. THE TRISTAN D'ACUNHA GROUP consists of three islands, the largest and fn.ian northernmost being named after the Portuguese discoverer, Tristan d'Acunha. Three Americans remained here in 1811, to prepare seal skins and oil, but they were taken away before 1813. A naval station was formed here by the British, when Buona- parte was confined at St. Helena; this was afterwards discontinued. The ship Berwick, on her passage to Van Diemen's Land, touched at Tristan d'Acunha on the 2oth March 1823, and found seventeen people, ten of whom con- stantly reside there : they had for disposal 25 tons of potatoes, also vegetables, milk, and butter ; and they had two good whale-boats, ready to afford assistance to such vessels as might require a supply of fresh water. In payment for their assistance, or supplies, they prefer clothes, salt-beef, pork, and rum, as of more utility to them than money. In 1829, the number of British inhabitants had considerably increased, were very healthy, and the children were free from the common infantine diseases of populous countries. This island is about 6 or 7 miles in extent, or 20 miles in circuit, of square form, being the base of a mountain, which terminates in a peak elevated 8,326 feet above the sea, sometimes covered with snow, when the sun is in the northern hemisphere, and may be seen at 30 leagues distance. From the West point of the island, breakers appear to project about 2 cables' lengths, but the shore is bold to approach in other parts. At the North side of the island, the land rises perpendicularly 1,000 feet or more from the sea, then ascends with a gentle acclivity to the base of the Peaked Mountain, which rises majestically over the Table Land. This island, like St. Helena, is formed of abrupt hilly ridges, with chasms or deep valleys between them, and seems to be of volcanic origin. The trees which grow on the sides of the ridges are small, with spreading branches hanging M - (l'Acun)ra. 82 TRISTAN D'ACUNHA GROUP near the ground, but burn well.* Wild celery, wild parsley, and sorrel, grow plenti- fully ; and wild goats and wild hogs are found in the interior. The cascade, or watering-place, is about the middle of the North side of the island, where the water is excellent, and the landing on the East side of it, at four cables' lengths distance, upon a beacli of round pebbles, is not difficult in line weather. There is anchorage near the cascade, in from 26 to 36 fathoms, from | a mile to 1 mile off shore. H.M.S. Lion anchored there 31st December 1792, in 30 fathoms black sand and slime, off shore 1 mile, a small rock off the West point of the island, bearing S.W. by S., just open with the western extremity, and the cascade of water falling on the beach S. by E. Position. Capt. Heywood, who touched here in H.M.S. Nereus, 5th and 6th January 1811, made the waterfall or cascade in lat. 37° 6' 9" S., Ion. 12° 3' West by chronometer, measured from Rio Janeiro. Mr. Fitzmaurice, in H.M.S. Serairamis, 5th of March 1813, by observations taken on shore at the cascade, made it in lat. 37° 5' 36^ S., Ion. 11° 57' 45' W. by chrono- meters, measured from the Cape of Good Hope : on a second cruize in the same ship, 15th November following, he made it in Ion. 12° 2' W. by chronometer, from the Cape of Good Hope, and in 12° 1' W. by lunar observations. The mean of Mr. Fitz- maurice's observations makes the cascade of Tristan d'Acunha in Ion. 12° 2' W., cor- responding within a mile of Capt. Heywood's observations. Some other ships' obser- vations place it in Ion. 11° 44' to 11° 50' W. The variation of the compass in 1811 was 9° 20' W., and in 1813 it was 9° 51' W . by Mr. Fitzmaurice's observations. Watering. Good Water is got with great ease from a small lake at the east side of the bay, p'^"- which is supplied by falls from the mountains : the casks may be thrown into the sea well bunged, and the surf will wash them on shore ; when filled at the lake, they must be rolled about 130 or 150 yards over a soft sandy beach, hauled off by a line to the boats at anchor, and hoisted in by a mast or stump, fitted for this purpose. The water cannot be rafted off, on account of the sea-weed surrounding the island. The Semira- mis filled 75 tons of water in this manner in November, sending the boats on shore in the mornings, and hoisting them in at night, the ship keeping under sail. It is dangerous to anchor without great caution, as the sea rises suddenly prior to a strong N.W. or North wind, which is liable to drive a ship on the rocks if she cut or slip from her anchors in order to gain an offing. The Julia brig of war was driven on the shore from her anchors, dashed in pieces on the rocks, and several of her crew perished ; other ships have narrowly escaped the same fate. • If a ship venture to anchor here, she ought to put to sea immediately on the appearance of an unfavourable change, or if the wind incline to veer to the northward of West ; but as the swell sets in often before the wind, it is in such case impossible to get under way, or a ship would be driven on the rocks, as the surf will then rise upon the shore, and it would be extremely dangerous to remain at anchor with a N.W. or northerly wind. There Tides. is a rise and fall of tide, about 8 or 9 feet at times. The shores of this, and the adjacent islands, are fronted by strong sea-weed, which is seen floating on the water in their vicinity, and patches of it extend to a considerable distance. Winds. Easterly winds seldom continue longer than 24 hours at a time near these islands ; * Probably the Gum tree, which is indigenous here, at St. Helena, and Goughs Island. TRISTAN D'ACUNHA GROUP— COUGHS ISLAND. 83 but S.W. and N.W, winds prevail, with storms from N.W. in winter, and dark, thick weather, requiring great caution in ships which happen to be running here at such times, if not certain of their situation.* As soon as the wind veers to the northward of West, thick fogs immediately darken the atmosphere. INACCESSIBLE ISLAND, bearing from Tristan d'Acunha W.S.W., distant inaccessible 19 or 20 miles, is the middle, and the westernmost of the group, situated in lat. '°" ' 37° 17' S., Ion. 12° 22' W., or 7 miles more westerly than Tristan d'Acunha, being about 9 miles in circuit, and may be seen about 16 leagues distance. It is level and barren, with only a few scattered shrubs on it ; the Semiramis' boat landed at a small pebbly beach, of which there are several small spots, with the mountain rising perpen- dicularly over them. There is no danger, only a rock, like a boat under sail, is visible at the S.E. point; soundings are got within a mile of the N.E. point, and 20 fathoms black sand with small reddish stones, when the body of the island bears West. Several streams of water issue from the top of the mountain. NIGHTINGALE ISLAND, the smallest and southernmost of these islands. Nightingale bearing from Tristan d'Acunha S.W. by S., distant 18 miles, is in lat. .37° 2(3' S., ^''''"''• Ion. 12° 8' W., being about G or 7 miles in circuit, having two rocky islets off the N.E. point, and some at the South point. On the East side there are soundings, and when the middle of the island bore W.S.W. Mons. D. Etchevery anchored in the L'Etoile du Matin, September 1767, in 33 fathoms, coarse brown and reddish sand. The boat found some diflSculty in reaching the shore, on account of strong sea-weed twined together, and after a landing was secured, the interior could not be penetrated for reeds, and the shore was covered with penguins and eggs. The boat of the Semiramis landed here in 1813, and found plenty of water, sea-elephants, and seals. These islands are not unfrequently seen by ships which haul far to the southward after leaving the S.E. trade, with the view of getting strong westerly winds. GOUGHS ISLAND, OR DIEGO ALVAREZ, has been seen by several East- coughs isia„'""" '''^"'^• caution, as the soundings decrease pretty regularly, and its fronting reef projects only I of a mile ; but the island should not be passed nearer than 2 miles, on account of the Whale, a sunken rock, distant 1 mile from its south extreme, on which the sea ^^''>'>i«; Koek. breaks when there is much swell; at other times it is not perceived. The soundings are from 20 to 15 fathoms about mid-channel in a direct line between the \^'hale and Green Point. When the wind is from the South, a ship may borrow with caution towards Green Point,* to 10 fathoms in day-light, but not under 15 or 16 fathoms in the night; then steer for the shipping in the road, in 10, 9, 8, and 7 fathoms, regular soundings; taking care in the night not to borrow too close to the shore after passing (ireen Point, as the reef continues to front a projecting point within it, where the brig Singapore was wrecked. In the fair weather season, regular sea-breezes from S. W. and West prevail in the Lamiandsen mornings, which continue till noon, or longer; these are followed by strong S. E. '''''""• winds from the land, which blow fresh during the afternoon, and frequently till the following morning; then the sea-breeze returns. The south-easter sometimes comes from the land with great fury ; it is tlierefore Southeisiers. prudent to take a reef or two in the topsails, before a ship has reached Green Point, if near or a little past noon. By neglecting this precaution I have seen ships round- ing the point with all sail set in a light breeze, suddenly meet the fiery south-easter on opening the bay, which compelled them to let fly every thing, to save their masts ; and one of these ships, whilst the people were aloft securing the topsails, nearly ran on shore on the East side of the bay in wearing. . If, abreast of Green Point, a ship meet with a fiery south-easter, and be unable to Anchorage un- work to windward, she ought to bear away and anchor under Penguin Island, taking J^amK"^" " care to keep at two miles distance from the South end of it, to give a berth to the Whale. t She may anchor off the North end of the island, about a large half-mile * Two ships have been wrecked on the Reef fronting Green Point, by borrowing too close to it in the night ; one of these, the Mulgrave Castle, a valuable ship ; and also, lately, the brig Singapore. t Or if well into the bay, she may run for ttie channel between the island and the main, and anchor in 8 or N go TABLE BAY. from it, in 9 or 10 fathoms ; but no nearer, as the reef projects from it a ^ mile, and nearly the same distance from the S. W. and S. E. ends of the island. The south-easters blow so strong at times, that a ship may not always be able to brino- up under Penguin Island, and several have been driven to sea till the wind abated. If it be inconvenient to anchor under that island, make short tacks to the southward of Green Point, under lee of the High Land, until the violence of the south-easter is abated ; and this seems preferable to the risk of losing an anchor, by endeavouring to bring up in a strong gale. Channels. It must be obscrvcd, that all ships going into Table Bay should use the channel between Green Point and Penguin Island, but the channel to the northward of this island is most proper for ships bound out ; for the strong S. E. winds blowing out of the bay produce an outset, or partial current between the island and the northern shore ; whereas the current frequently sets past Green Point into the bay, to replace the quantity of water driven out by the strong winds along the North shore. After working from Dassen Island, in January 1798, to the entrance of Table Bay, we observed in the morning, that it was calm under the high land in the South chan- nel ; but a steady light breeze was perceived on the water between Penguin Island • and the North shore. To preserve the breeze, we proceeded to work in by the North channel: about 2 p.m., the south-easter came to blow strong, carried away our top- sail sheets, and we were obliged to close reef the topsails, when beating through be- tween the island and the main. We found a lee current whilst the wind was strong, and gained little ground until it moderated, about 8 p.m. In beating through, we did not stand nearer to the island than 8 fathoms ; the soundings were from 8 to 12 fathoms sandy ground, but did not decrease much in nearing the main. From where we tacked on each side, the depths were generally from 9^, to 11 and 12 fathoms across the channel. On the main, three rocky points project a small distance from a sandy beach, near which several sunken rocks were seen shining under water, about \ mile or more from the shore. Near the outermost of these rocky points, we shoaled from 10 to 7^ fathoms at a cast; whilst in stays, I perceived some sunken rocks, about 2 cables' lengths within us, which render it unsafe to make too free with the shore in this part. Between Green Point and Penguin Island the ground is foul ; if a ship be driven by the swell towards the Whale Rock or Penguin Island in a calm, and obliged to anchor, the stream will be most convenient for this purpose where the ground is Anchorage in rocky. The proper anchorage in the bay, abreast the town, is sandy bottom ; the Table Bay. West side of it being clear ground all over. In the summer months, a ship may moor in 7, 6, or 5 fathoms, with Green Point N. W. ^ N., the body of Table Mountain S. W. 4 S., and the flag-staff on the Lion's Mount W. \ S. off shore from ^ to 1 mile, and from the town I or 1:^ miles. When N. W. winds are expected, do not anchor under 7 or Qh fathoms, where the swell runs more regular than in shoaler water. At these times, ships should ride with a whole cable, or more, for they are liable to drive if their anchors are not well seated in the sand ; and when a ship drives, it is difficult to bring her up, as the anchors scrape along the surface of the sand, and do not take hold, whilst the heavy seas are striking against her. The best ground is from 5 to 7|- fathoms. When so far out, as to have the Lion's Head in one with, or open to the northward of, the Lion's Rump, the ground is rocky quite across the bay. 9 fathoms, f of a mile distant from its eastern shore ; where she may lie till the morning, when the south- westerly breezes will enable her to weigh and run for the anchorage at Cape Town. TABLE BAY, 91 Table Bay is an excellent place for obtaining refreshments: the water is good, but RefrcshmenK wood is very scarce. Sheep are to be had in abundance, at very moderate prices ; also other provision of various kinds, and the vegetables and the fruits are good. The water is brought down in pipes to the pier, where boats fill it with hoses, leading from the pipes to their casks. The atmosphere about the Cape is generally cool in the night, although the sandy soil is often greatly heated by the rays of the sun : this oc- casions the land winds which blow out of Table Bay to come off in hot gusts in the evenings, when their course is over sandy ground. In this bay, before the establishment of the time signal at the observatory, it was Refraction, difficult to obtain rates for chronometers on ship board, in the fair weather season ; for correct altitudes of the sun cannot be obtained, the refraction is so mutable near the horizon. During seven days' stay here, I took nearly 100 sets of forenoon and afternoon altitudes of the sun, to correct the rates of seven chronometers, but did not get their rates very exact. Objects in the horizon at the entrance of the bay were sometimes reflected double ; a picture of a vessel under sail was seen distinctly in the atmosphere above her, and other objects were reflected in various ways. CAPE TOWN, by mean of six meridian altitudes of the sun, taken on board with Cape To«n. an indifferent horizon, 1 made in lat. 33° 55§' S., Ion. 18° 28|' E. by mean of the observations of different astronomers. Captain Owen, during his survey of the coasts Position, of Africa, in 1822 to 1826, made the Devil's Mount in lat. 33° 57' 12" S., Ion. 18° 21f E. ; and Cape Town* in lat. 33° 55' S., Ion. 18° 21' E., or 7 miles farther West than the longitude stated above. Cape Town observatory has lately been placed in Ion. 18° 27' 20" E., by corresponding observations of culminations of the moon with stars near her, taken at the Greenwich observatory, and simultaneously by the Rev. F. Fallows, late astronomer at the Cape. Mr. Henderson, his successor, by a compari- son of 79 observations of transits of the moon, taken at the Cape Town Observatory, with corresponding ones taken at Greenwich, Cambridge, Edinburgh, and Abo, made the observatory in Ion. 18° 29' E. ; and as the observatory is about 3:|: miles East of Cape Town, the latter is in Ion. 18° 25' 45" by this result. Captain Foster, of H.M.S. Chanticleer, made Amsterdam b'attery in lat. 33° 54' 46" S., Ion. 18° 25' E. A time signal is now established at the Observatory for the rating of ships' chro- Time signal. nometers, and the Signal Disc is dropped daily, Sundays excepted, at the hour of one o'clock, Cape Mean Time. The moment of observation is the moment of the separa- tion of the Disc from the cross bar at the head of the mast. The tide seldom rises more than 5 feet perpendicular in Table Bay; high- water at Tides. half-past two o'clock on full and change of the moon. Ships moor with their anchors about N.W.and S.E. Table Mountain E. 12 leagues, the var. was 25° 40' W. in Feb. 1798 1 Mean of many morning azimuths, Ditto... ditto 14 ditto 25° 40' ditto 1800 J each time by two compasses. A light house, with a double light, has been erected on the projecting point of land Light House. between the Great Mouille, or Moulin Battery, and Three Anchor Bay, under the Lion's Rump, at the entrance of Table Bay ; and the following directions are given for sailing into Table Bay by night : Coming: from the southward and westward with a leading wind, and not having of entering ° ° ° Table Bay by night. * Captain Beaufort, of the Royal Navy, by observations taken on shore with an artificial horizon, made Cape Town in lat. 33° 55' S. N 2 92 HOUT BAY. made tlie Light- House before night, steer along the coast to the N.E. until you open the lights of the rising land, about the Lion's Head, when the two lights will be their breadth open of each other, and bear about E. by N. ; then haul in towards them, tak- ing care to keep the lead going, and not to come under 18 fathoms till the lights bear S. by £., which will carry you about a mile clear of danger, fronting Green Point ; steer to the eastward until the lights come on with each other ; i.e. are in one, or until they bear S.W. ^ S., you will then be abreast the north-western extremity of Table Bay, and may haul in S. by E. or S.S.E. according to circumstances, for the anchor- age ; when the lights are shutting in by the rising land of the Upper Mouline Battery bearing N.W. by W., you will be approaching the outer anchorage, and may safely anchor for the night in 7 or 8 fathoms water, fine sand. Care should be taken not to run into less than 5^ or 6 fathoms, unless well acquainted. Ships coming from the northward and westward should observe the same directions with respect to passing the lights, &c. Ships working in, with the wind from the southward and eastward, after being abreast the lights, should not stand to the eastward farther than 2^ or 3 miles, or until they shoal the water to 8 or 7^ fathoms. These bearings are by compass, and the di- rections are by Mr. J. Goodridge, master attendant, and lately corrected by Lieutenant J. Bance, harbour-master, at Cape Town. Variation 27° W. in 1826.* From the Cape of Good Hope to Table Bay the shore is mostly steep, and may be approached within 2 or 3 miles distance in sailing along towards Green Point, which is low, and forms the northern extremity of the peninsula. HoiitBay. HOUT BAY, about 3 leagues to the southward of Green Point, is situated at the north end of an excavation in the land, and is said to afford shelter from all winds, to a small number of ships ; but is rather confined, and has a ledge of rocks at the entrance. A ship in passing the points which form this bay, should keep two miles from the land, to give a berth to some straggling rocks detached from the shore, keeping about the same distance from it till she reach" Green Point, to avoid some rocks fronting the shore, between the Sugar-Loaf and that Point; most of which rocks are above water, and within 1 or f of a mile of the shore; the depths of water about 1^ or 2 miles off, are from 50 to 60 fathoms. In a case of emergency, a ship might pass between the shore and the ledge of rocks fronting Hout Bay, which was effected by the Company's ship Abercrombie Robinson, 27th January, 1831, in soundings from 8 to 13 fathoms. She had been drifted by the current during a fog into the mouth of the bay, where she an- chored in 7 fathoms, about a ^ of a mile inside the ledge of rocks upon which the breakers were perceived as the fog cleared away. Cape of Good THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE is the southern extremity of the Peninsula, which ""P"' separates False and Table Bays from each other, and the terminating promontory of the West coast of Africa to the southward. From Table Bay to this Cape the land is * A flag-staff is erected on the Lion's Rump, for the purpose of communicating with ships entering Table Bay, by means of Capt. Marryat's Code of Signals, now in general use in the Merchant service. Vessels approaching the land have, therefore, only to make use of that Code, as directed, for the purpose of either conveying, or receiving, communications to or from the Signal Post on the Lion's Rump. It is to be recollected, that at this flag-staff, a Colonial Telegraph is also in use ; but no mistake can arise therefrom, if ships in the offing pay attention to Captain Marryat's Code, the flags of which are entirely dif- ferent from those of the Colonial Telegraph. FALSE BAY. ' 93 of considerable height, rugged and uneven, ending in hummocks at theCape Point. The latitude of the extreme point is about 34° 22' S.* (by Captain Owen), aud 3^ miles East from the meridian of Cape Town, or nearly on the meridian of the observa- tory ; which, by Mr. Henderson's statement, will place the Cape of Good Hope in Ion. 18° 29' E. ; but Captain Owen made it in Ion. 18° 24^' E. THE BELLOWS, a large rock, even with the water's edge, about 2 miles distant, Beiio»s Kock. nearly S. f W. from the highest land of Cape Point, has the sea usually breaking on it ; but not always upon the tail of the reef that projects from its S.W. extremity. THE ANVIL, another sunken rock, lies about 2 miles or more E. ^ N. of the Bel- ahvii ami lows, and distant about 2 miles from Cape Point; there is a passage between these °'''" '■"^■''*- rocks, and another betwixt them and the land, with soundings from 20 to 7 fathoms, but they are not frequented, | the bottom being rocky, and the current sometimes strong. The Colebrook, Indiaman, was lost in August, 1778, on a rock thought to have been the Anvil, its true situation being then not exactly known. Captain Huddart placed it about true East from the Cape Point. Captain Owen's late survey makes it f of a mile farther south than the Cape Point, and if of a mile more to the eastward. There is thought to be 14 feet water on the Anvil Rock, and it is of small extent. | When the Colebrook struck, the Royal Admiral passed within the rock at a mile distance between it and the land ; before and after striking on it the former ship had 30 fathoms water. FALSE BAY entrance is formed by the Cape of Good Hope on the West side, FaUe Bay. and False Cape on the East side ; the latter is a steep bluft', resembling a quoin, which may be seen at 8 leagues distance, and appears to lean over to the West when viewed from the southward, from which, probably, it was called Hanglip, or Hangclip, by the Dutch, but sometimes Hottentot's Point; it is situated in lat. 34° 23|' S., Ion. 18° 45' E., by Captain Owen's survey; but in 18° 50|^' E., by the deductions of Mr. Hender- son, the astronomer. The entrance of the bay, from Cape to Cape, is about 5 leagues wide. False Cape being to the southward of the Cape of Good Hope, nearly 2 miles. The bay extends northward into the land about 5^ leagues, being large and open, of square form, having several dangers in it, none of which are situated near False Cape, or in the eastern side of the bay.§ Across the entrance of False Bay, the depths of water are from 40 to 50 fathoms ; but a little to the westward of the middle of the entrance there is a bank of rocky ground, with soundings on it from 16 to 30 fathoms, having 45 and 46 fathoms within it, and 60 fathoms to the southward. The middle and eastern parts of the bay are thought free from dangers, but the ground is foul and improper for anchorage. As you enter False Bay, a ridge of rugged mountains is perceived to the northward, * Some navigators make it in lat. 34° 23' S. t The Cumberland, with the direct ships for China, under convoy of H.M.S. Doris, 15th June, 1813, at ^ past 8 A.M., had the Cape of Good Hope bearing N.W. by N. distant |^ of a mile, with the wind at N. west- ward : she then steered into False Bay between the Bellows Rock and Cape Point, keeping about E. by S. nearly mid-channel, 1 1 miles from the Cape of Good Hope. X A master of the navy, who surveyed False Bay, asserts, that there are other rocks near the Anvil. § At its N.E. angle there is a small concavity, called Gordon Bay, where a ship might be sheltered from south and easterly winds, in 8 or 9 fathoms water. Pringle Bay is a sort of cove on the north side of Cape False, not so much sheltered as the former. 94 FALSE BAY. which ends at the entrance of Table Bay. The Table Mountain is seen in clear wea- tlier, when the distance from it is 60 miles to the southward, and very distinctly from the entrance of False Bay. From False Cape, another ridge of mountains extends to the northward, along the eastern shore, to the bottom of the bay. The space between these ridges is low land, the mountains seen over it being at a great distance in the country. The danger most in the way of ships working into, or out of. False Bay, is the whitiie Kocks. WHITTLE ROCKS, which are an extensive ledge of rocks, nearly a mile in circum- ference, covered with from 5 to 15 fathoms water excepting the shoalest spot, which has only from 12 to 15 feet water on it at low spring tides, and appears to be about 6 feet in diameter. It is steepest on the S.E. side; and another rock with 4^ fathoms water on it, lies South 40 fathoms from the shoalest part of the Whittle Rocks. There are others to the N.W. about a cable's length from it, with 4 and 5 fathoms water on them. The Trident, A^sia, and several other ships, have struck on these dangers. From the N.E. verge of these rocks, the Cape of Good Hope Point bears by com- pass S. 511° w.; Outer Smith's Winkle, West; Commandant's House, N. 40° W. ; Noah's Ark, N. 35° W. ; West Point of Fish-hook Bay, N. 20° W. ; Muyzenberg Point, N. 3° W. ; Peak of the Devil's Mount, N.5i° E.; Seal Island, N. 34° E.; and the extremity of Cape False, S. 33|° E. Variation 28° W., in 1811. Captain Owen makes Whittle Rock in lat. 34° 16|' S., Ion. 18° 29' E., and it lies 4^ miles E.S.E. from the North point of Little Smith's Winkle Bay, and about 8 miles from Cape Point. Lieutenant Whittle examined this danger, and found it to be a rocky bank, about a ^ mile broad, on which there is a rock with only 12 feet water over it at low- tide. On the 12-feet rock, the angle of Cape False and Cape Point, taken with a quadrant, was 87°, and the summits of two hills over Fish-hook Bay, just touching each other. The Francis struck on a spot about a mile to the northward of the Whittle Rocks, but probably the bearings were not correctly taken, and that it might be on one of the northernmost of the Whittle Rocks where she struck. If a ship, coming from the westward with a N.W. wind, is bound to Simons Bay, she may pass to the southward of the Bellows Rock at any discretional distance. When abreast of it, at 2 or 3 miles distance, the course ought to be E.S.E. to E. by S,, till she has run 5 or 6 miles ; she may then haul up E.N.E. and N.E., taking care not to approach the Cape Point nearer than 5 miles, till it bear W.N.W. ; being then to the northward of the Anvil and Colebrook Rocks, she may haul in, within 2 or 3 miles of the western shore, into moderate depths for anchoring. To sail into A ship comiug into False Bay from the eastward should steer for the middle of the I'^monf bV^ bay. or for the West side of it, With a S.W. or westerly wind. When the Cape Point bears W. by N. she will be clear to the northward of the Anvil, or other sunken rocks supposed to be situated near the Point, and may then borrow on the western side of the bay, within 2 miles of the shore, or less, if requisite. When 6 miles within Cape Point, and abreast the rocky hill over Little Smith's Winkle Bay, she ought not to stand farther from the shore than 3 miles in passing the Whittle Rocks, and should it fall calm, she may anchor in moderate depths near the western shore. To avoid this danger, a ship should go to the westward of it, keeping within 2 or 3 miles of the land, in passing between Little and Great Smith's Winkle Bays, taking care, in passing abreast of it, that the angle of Cape False and Cape Point is not increased to 85° when measured by a quadrant. Close to this dangerous patch, the soundings are 20 and 22 fathoms. Ships may pass to the eastward of the Whittle Rocks, and between them SIMONS BAY. 95 and the reefs to the southward of Seal Island ; but the western channel seems prefer- able for strangers, the land affording them a sufficient guide. After passing the Whittle Rocks, a ship may continue to steer or work along the western shore, at the distance of from 1 to 3 miles ; when she approaches Simons Bay, Noahs Ark will be discerned, which is a level islet near the South point of the bay; but the marks most conspicuous, and seen farthest off, are while sand cIowhs, appearing like snow, in the hollows between the mountains to the N.W.of Noah's Ark, as represented in the plan of False Bay, by Captain Joseph Huddart. Noah's Ark is steep to, having 9 fathoms close to it ; the soundings in the channel, between it and Roman Rocks, are from 10 to 15 fathoms; from hence a ship should steer direct for the white sand downs, till she reach the anchorage in Simons Bay. If working with a N. W. wind, she may proceed by the channel outside of Roman Rocks, which is clear and much wider than the common channel between them and Noah's Ark, taking care not to borrow very close to the N.W. side of Roman Rocks, as a rock, with 3 or 4 fathoms water on it, is said to lie at a small distance from them in this di- rection. To work into False Bay, and to the eastward of the Whittle Rocks, towards Simons Eastern than." Bay, a ship should not bring Cape Point to the southward of S.W. by VV. till Noah's °*'' Ark bear N.W. by W. ; and when on the starboard tack bring Noah's Ark nothing to the northward of this bearing, by which the Whittle Rocks will be avoided ; but she must not stand far to the North, towards the sunken rocks extending southward from Seal Island, which, by ships turning to windward, should not be approached nearer than 4 miles on the South side, or 3 miles on the North side. SIMONS BAY is situated 4 leagues northward from Cape Point, near the N.W. Simons Bay. corner of False Bay, at the foot of the highest mountain on the coast. From April to September, when Table Bay is unsafe, ships put into Simons Bay, and in every month of the year this is considered a place of safety. Although it is open to north-easterly and easterly winds, which come from the bottom of False Bay, or from the mountains on the coast, these never blow strong ; so that it may be considered a safe retreat for 13 or 14 sail of ships at all seasons; but being small it cannot contain a numerous fleet properly sheltered from S.E. winds. The sliips in this bay receive refreshments and supplies of provisions from the interior, and from Cape Town, distant from hence about 6 leagues; water is conveniently obtained, and is excellent. At a small distance from the south point of the bay, there is an islet or rock, in the form of a barn, called Noah's Ark; about a mile N.E. f E. from this a small reef is situated near the water's edge, called Roman Rocks; between these is the common channel for ships. From Roman Rocks, about 2 leagues E. ^ S., lies Seal Island, having straggling rocks above and under water near it, some of which extend 2 and 3 miles to the southward, and near 4 miles to the eastward; breakers are always seen when the sea runs high. The Warren Hastings, in 1795, struck on one of the southernmost of these rocky patches, Dangers near whilst in stays ; False Cape bore S. by E. | E., Cape Point S.W. \ W., a high peak S'"' '^'•''"''• at the bottom of False Bay, N. by W., and the ships in Simons Bay W. by N. f N. The dockyard in Simons Bay is in lat. 34° l]l' S., Ion. 18° 21' E., by Captain Owen: the depths of water 8, 9, and 10 fathoms in the bay. A good berth for a large ship is Anchorage. Noah's Ark on with Cape Hanglip,S.E.byS. and the North Battery N.byW. by compass, off shore about 1 mile; or a ship making a long stay may moor farther in, with Cape Hanglip shut in by the South point of Simons Bay, but it is best to moor at a conve- nient distance from the shore, to have room in case of driving. Although the bottom is 96 SIMONS BAY. PerioJical winds. 'lides. Ti> sail from Simons Bay. Caution. Coast east- ward of Cape Hanglip. sand, the anchors hold well when seated in it. Ships moor in this road N.VV. and S. E. from May to September, with the stoutest ground-tackle to N.W., for this being the winter season, the winds prevail from that quarter, and often blow in strong gusts over the hills; from September to May, the S.E. and southerly winds may be expected to predominate, then the best bower should lie to the S.E.; but in this season ships generally prefer Table Bay. In Simons Bay it is high water at ^ past 3 o'clock, on full and change of the moon; the rise and fall of tide is seldom more than 3 feet, and there is little current perceptible here at any time. From October to April the south-easterly winds generally prevail, but do not conti- nue longer than 5 or 6 days at a time, and are constantly succeeded by variable winds. In Simons Bay, as in Table Bay, it frequently happens that these winds after blowing very strong for a day and part of the night, abate towards morning, and are succeeded by a land-i3reeze from W.N.W. By taking the advantage to weigh with the first of this breeze, a ship may sometimes get to sea before the return of the south-easterly wind; if she cannot get clear out before the strong S.E. wind set in, the most prudent plan will be to return to the anchorage in Simons Bay. Ships bound to the eastward should leave the bay when N.W. winds begin to blow ; if bound westward, in the winter season, they ought to remain till these winds are on the decline, and get under sail when they shift to westward, as it is probable they will veer from West to S.W., South, and S.E., which will be favourable for doubling the Cape. Ships from the eastward, bound into False Bay, or even into Table Bay, should be particular, when S.E. winds prevail in the summer months, not to fall to leeward of the Cape; for it will often be found very difficult to gain the former of these bays, if a ship make the land about the Cape bearing to the eastward, during strong S.E. winds. Ships from India, at different times, bound into Table Bay with stores, have been obliged to bear away for St. Helena, on account of passing the Cape in the night, una- ble to beat up against the strong easterly winds and leeward current. The Cape of Good Hope is frequently the boundary of very different kinds of weather; for ships homeward-bound have in general unsettled cloudy weather, and the winds variable to the eastward of it ; but when they get round to the westward of this pro- montory, the weather generally becomes favourable, with a steady south-easterly wind; this usually happens, but more particularly in the summer season. From Cape Hanglip the coast takes an easterly direction 8 or 9 leagues, then turns round to the southward in a headland, named Point Danger, by which a deep concavity called Sand Down Bay, is formed between them. A reef projects a considerable dis- tance from the latter Point, and near it there is a Bluff Hill, with a small isle about 3J leagues to the eastward of the point near the shore, called Dyer Island, which is also fronted by rocks. Betwixt Dyer Island and Cape Agulhas there is a small projection, called Quoin Point, a little to the westward of the Gunner's Quoin, which point is in lat. 34° 49' S., Ion. 19° 37' E., by the survey of Captain Owen. 97 CAPE AND BANK OF AGULHAS. DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST AND BANK— CURRENTS. DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST AND BANK. CAPE AGULHAS, OR AGUILHAS,* bears S.E. from the extreme point Ca,,c. Aguihas of the Cape of Good Hope, distant about 30 leasjues : it is the soutliernmost knd of Africa, and is in lat. .'J4° 51^' S.,t Ion. 19° 56^' E., by Captain Owen's survey. This Cape being placed too far to the northvvard in some nautical works, has been the cause of dangerous mistakes to several navigators bound to the westward. Cape Aguihas is low even land, about the height of North Foreland, and may be seen at 5-^ or 6 leagues distance from the deck of a large ship. There is no high land within several miles of it in any direction ; bnt to the north-westward, at the distance of about 3 or 4 leagues from the Cape, there is an isolated hill near the sea, called the Gunner's Quoin, which it resembles when seen from the eastward. This hill may be seen 9 or 10 leagues off, and is a mark for ships passing at too great a distance to see the low land near the Cape. Ships coming either from the eastward or westward, and only arriving in sight of the Quoin, or other high land in the vicinity of Cape Aguihas, in the evening, should, if the wind is scant from southward, be aware that the low land of the Cap^ projects much farther to the South than any of the high land adjacent. By attending to this, they will avoid getting into the bays on either side of this Cape, fn Decem- ber, 1795, the Milford got into Struys Bay on the east side of Cape Agidlias in the sin.)- Bay. night ; they were first alarmed by the noise of breakers on the shore, when they thought themselves clear of all the land to the southward ; at this time the wind was light, and the swell setting on the shore, obliged them to anchor ; when day-light appeared, the breakers on the beach were not above 2 miles distant. With a fresh wind, which set in from S.E., this ship had some difficulty in working out of this deep bay. The ship Star, from Aml)oina, bound to London, got into this bay in the night of October 2d, 1801. The journal says : " Got into the bay eastward of Cape Aguihas, heard the noise of breakers, had 6 fathoms, and tacked to the eastward ; after tacking, had 7, 7, 7^, 8, 7|, and 7 fathoms, then heard the noise of other breakers a-liead ; tacked, and lay up S. by W. with a light south-easterly air, and deepened to 8^ fathoms ; being then 3 a.m., a breeze at N.N. W. came from the land, steered out S. by E. till day-light ; hazy, no land seen in the morning." * Called by its discoverers, the Portuguese, Aguilhas, or Needle's Cape, because the magnetic needle had no variation there at that time. The Portuguese name has been corrupted by the English sailors into LaguUas, or Lagullus. In 1598, the variation at this Cape was 0° 30' W., at the Cape Good Hope 25' E., and at Cape False no vaViation. t Some navigators state it to be in lat. 34° 50' S., and it has been usually placed several leagues more east- erly than stated above. Captain Biden, of the Thalia, made it in Ion. 20° 8' E., and it is placed in lat. 34° 48^' S., Ion. 20° 10' E., by Mr. Walker, of H.M. brig Dispatch, who constructed a Chart of South Africa, from his numerous observations, while employed in the coasting trade. O 98 CAPE AND BANK OF AGULHAS — CURRENTS. This bay is about 2^ leagues wide between Agulhas Point and the first low point to the north-eastward. The Arniston, transport, from Ceylon, bound to England in 1815, being supposed by her commander to be to the westward of the Cape, edged away to the N.W. for St. Helena, and got into Struys Bay during a strong southerly gale ; not being able to ride at her anchors, she drove on shore, and out of 300 persons only 5 or 6 survived that catastrophe. Aguihas From the Cape of Good Hope, along the South coast of Africa to Algoa Bay, a bank of soundings extends a considerable distance from the land, and is generally called the Cape Bank, or Bank of Aguihas. The southern extremity of the bank is nearly on the meridian of Cape Vaches, or in Ion. 22° E., and is said to extend nearly to lat. 37° S. in this part;* but a little to the southward of lat. 36° S., it converges quickly and becomes of a narrow conical form, having very deep water on its southern end. The soundings on the bank westward of Cape Aguihas, to the South of lat. 35° 15', are generally found to be mud ; to the southward of the Cape, frequently green sand, or sand of various kinds ; and on the S.E. and eastern parts of the bank, to the east- ward of Cape Aguihas, the quality of the ground is mostly coral, or coarse sand, shells, and small stones. Before lunar observations were practised at sea, it was customary for ships to get " soundings on the Bank of Aguihas, to correct their reckoning ; which is no longer requisite, for the longitude obtained by observation must be more exact than can be ascertained by sounding on the bank. Grampusses, or whales, are frequently seen floating with their backs a little above water, more particularly in moderate weather with easterly winds, when the water is smooth on the bank; at such times a ship may be liable to run against one of them before it is awake, which has actually happened to some ships, and greatly alarmed all on board. Very large seals also frequent the Cape Bank and its vicinity. Gannets (or Soland Geese) are generally seen on the bank in moderate weather ; they are about the size of the domestic goose, entirely white, except that the extre- mities of the wings are tipped with black. They beat their wings quickly in flight, like a duck or pigeon, and are easily known from other large aquatic birds, whose wings are much longer. Abreast of Cape Aguihas, the Gunner's Quoin, and the land to the eastward of that Cape, the depths of water are from 40 to 50 fathoms, at 3 and 4 leagues distance from the shore. CURRENTS. Current. The sct of the current, round the Cape Bank, was first explained by Major Rennell, in 1777, who published a chart of the bank, exhibiting the direction of the current, and its velocity in the winter months. As he has observed, the current in general is strongest during the winter months, but it is sometimes found in other months to run equally strong. It runs with the greatest velocity along the verge of soundings, and a little outside of them, the direction of the stream nearly all round conforming to the outline of the bank. Far in upon it, near the land, the current is very weak, it is therefore advisable for all ships bound * It has been said, that soundings of 91 fathoms were got on the tail of the bank in lat. 38° 15' S., Ion. 20° 40 E. ; but it remains uncertain, if the bank really extends thus far South. The Warren, however, had ground 125 fathoms in lat. 36° 46' S. CURRENTS OFF CAPE AGULHAS. 99 to the westward to keep near the edge of the bank when they have contrary winds, that they may benefit by the current.* Although a strong current sets round the Cape Bank to the westward, during both the winter and summer seasons, it is frequently obstructed by various causes, parti- cularly witii strong gales from West and S.W. When these blow, the current is sometimes completely repressed for a short time, but runs with redoubled strength immediately after these gales abate ; at other times it continues to run with con- siderable velocity against the strongest gales, producing a very high sea ; but far in upon the bank, towards the land, where the current is generally weak, the sea is always more smooth, and the winds more moderate. Ships coming from the eastward begin to experience the Cape Current when they Eastern limit approach the eastern verge of the bank in Ion. 28° E. to the eastward of Algoa Bay; "f '^e current. sometimes it prevails much farther to the eastward, and along the coast of Africa, a considerable way to the north-eastward. Bound from Bombay to London, in the Anna, we began to experience the westerly current, July 28tli, 1801, in lat. 30^° S., Ion. 37° E. On this day it set West 38 miles by chronometers; on the subsequent day, West 35 miles ; July 30th, it set W. 16° S. 48 miles ; on the 31st, it set W. 12° S. 77 miles ; lat. at noon 321° S., Ion. 31° 40' E. ; during this time, the winds were light Direction and at S. E. and eastward. August 1st, the current was checked by a strong gale, veering ^"'"''"y- from N. E. to N. W. and W. S. W. ; on the 2d and 3d, had a set of 30 miles to the westward each day ; saw the land near Cape Recife on the 3d ; from hence, had the winds variable with two gales at Westward, till we got round the Cape of Good Hope on the 13th, in which time the current set generally 15 or 20 miles to the westward daily, and one day 45 miles in this direction. During the westerly gales the current was completely checked, and by the force of these winds, it sometimes set eastward. From China, bound to London, in the same ship, we got into the stream of the Cape current April 21st, 1799; on the preceding day, the noon lat. was 35° 11' S., Ion. 27° 59' E., had no current ; on the 21st, lat. 35° 3' S., Ion. 26° 52' E., the current had set W. 32° S. 27 miles by chronometers ; from noon 21st to noon 22d it set W. 19° S. 52 miles, lat. 35° 13' S., Ion. 25° 5' E., at noon 22d, light winds from westward; from the 22d to the 23d, the current set W. 36° S. 87 miles, being above 3| mdes an hour, lat. 35° 56' S., Ion. 22° 51' E., on the 23d at noon. By the strength of current this day, the ship was greatly agitated, the sea it produced rising in confused heaps, although the breeze was moderate at W. N. W. Noon the 24th, lat. 35° 30' S., Ion. 18° 58' E., the current having set W< 19° S. 32 miles ; at noon 25th, abreast of Cape False, this day no westerly current, but a set of 9 miles northward. 3] the _. __ . ., 27° 46' E., current set W. 14° S., 44 miles from 29th. Noon 31st, observed lat. 34 21 S., Ion. 26° 36' E., current W. 22° S., 65 miles from the preceding noon. Noon 1st June, lat. 34° 5.3' S., Ion. 25° 15' E., current set W., 16° S., 66 miles from the precedmg noon. Noon 2d, lat. 36° 12' S., Ion. 22° 36' E., current set S. 40° W., 74 miles from noon preceding. Noon 3d June, lat. 36° 23' S., 21° 42' E. by chronometers, current set S. 35° W., 27 miles from noon 2d. When more to the westward, lost the current. * But they ought not to stand too far to the southward heyond the verge of soundings, where they will be subject to violent gales from the westward in the winter months, outside the stream of the current ; and may perhaps get disabled, and be obliged to bear away for St. Augustine Bay, or Port Louis, to refit, which has happened to many ships. 2 100 CURRENTS OFF CAPE AGULHAS. Singular in- stance of its strenstli. General Di- rection. Easterly or counter cur- rent. The abstracts here adduced are to show the general direction and velocity of the current, in its course round the edge of the Bank. Although it may at a medium rate be taken at less than mentioned above, yet at some particular times the velocity of this stream seems to be greater than exhibited in these abstracts, as appears by the Northampton's Journal, and those of some other ships. The Northampton, Dec. 23, 1802, at 9 a.m., saw the Coast of Africa bearing North, about 25 leagues. At noon, lat. 35° 0' S., Ion. by chros. 24° 54' E., Dec. 24th, variable light airs, and a very confused swell, which makes the ship very uneasy. Find we have had a current of 47 miles to the southward, and 160 miles to the westward by chro- nometers, these 24 hours. Observed at noon, lat. 36° 3.3' S., Ion. 21° 53' E., by chros., which gives the direction of the current W, 20° S. velocity 139 miles, or 5^ miles per hour. It is difficult to assent to a current of such velocity as this, although it may be possi- ble ; for constant gales from the westward prevailed along the Bank during the first and middle parts of the month, which prevented the ships bound round the Cape from making any progress, until these winds abated about the 20lh December. It is there- fore probable, that the current at this time began to set very strong to the westward along the Bank, as it had been repressed a considerable time by the strong westerly gales. The general course of the current round the Cape Bank appears conformable with the following description. In June, July, and August, from about Ion. 37° or 40° E. the current generally sets westward, between lat. 30° and 35° S., till it reaches the eastern part of the Cape Bank, oft" Algoa Bay. On the coast of Natal, it sets along shore to the south-westward till joined by the oceanic stream, on the edge of the Bank, in Ion. 27|-° or 28° E., between Algoa Bay and Infanta River. After the junction, it increases in strength oft" Cape Recife, the South extreme of Algoa Bay, and takes tiie direction of the outline of the Bank, which is about W. by S. nearly, to about Ion. 23j° W. In this space, it often diverges a little from the outline of the Bank, setting W. by S. ^ S. or W. S. VV. ; but seldom to the northward of West. In Ion. 23^^° E. the edge of the Bank begins to take a south-westerly direc- tion, and soon after about S. S, W, \ W., nearly to its southern extremity. Here also the current follows its concave outline, taking a south-westerly course in Ion. 24° E., and from 23° E., it generally sets about S. W. by S. to the southern extremity of the Bank, in Ion. 21f° or 22° E. The velocity of the current is greatest from Ion. 25° to 22° E., along that part of the Bank which takes the most southerly direction. At the southern extremity of the Bank, it seldom runs strong* beyond lat. 36|^° S. or to the westward of Ion. 21° E. From hence, a part of it seems to set weakly to the westward, and is lost in the ocean ; but the strongest part follows the convex extremity of the Bank, and continues to set along the western edge of it to the north-westward directly towards the Cape of Good Eope. This north-westerly current seldom exceeds half the velocity of that setting to the south-westward, on the other side of the Bank. An Easterly, or counter current, often prevails outside of the regular stream, that sets along the edge of the bank to the westward. This easterly current is frequently experienced in lat. 36^° to 40° S., about 2 degrees from the eastern part of the Bank contiguous to Algoa Bay, between Ion. 26° and 30° E. : and it sometimes extends to lat. 36° or 35^° S. within about 20 leagues of the Bank. * Keeping nearly ia lat. 36° S. outward-bound in June 1802, the wind strong at westward, we had a very weak current against us in passing the Bank of Agulhas, only from 10 to 20 miles per day. WINDS AND WEATHER NEAR AGULHAS BANK. 101 From the 17th to the 20th April, 1799, we had in the Anna a strong current to the S.E. in lat. 30° S., Ion. 27° and 28° E. ; and did not perceive any set to the westward, until in lat. 35° S., then near the verge of soundings. In July, 1792, the Thetis was in 24 hours set 38 miles to the eastward by a current, in lat. 3d^° S., Ion. 28^° E. This ship had, in the same latitude and longitude, a stronger current to the eastward, on her preceding voyage ; and also on her first voyage, a little farther to the southward, in the same longitude. The sea was much agitated at these times. Nov. 28th, 1800, at noon, the Sir Edward Hughes was in lat. 39^° S. : on the sub- sequent noon in lat. 38f°S., Ion. 26° E., the current having set N.N.E. ^ E. 54 miles during the 24 hours. In Feb. 1798, we kept mostly in 40° and 41° S., from the meridian of Cape Agulhas to the meridian of the S.W. part of Madagascar; had in general a daily set of from 20 to 30 miles eastward ; and at two difterent times, 60 miles in 24 hours. From the meri- dian of Cape Agulhas, to the meridian of Cape St. Mary, we had 4° of easterly cur- rent in 10 days, with variable winds from every quarter, but strongest from the west- ward. WINDS, WEATHER, AND DOUBTFUL DANGERS, WITH REMARKS ON ICE ISLANDS NEAR THE BANK OF AGULHAS. WINDS AND WEATHER. FROM September to April, which is the summer season, the S.E. winds may be periodical said to predominate in the vicinity of the Cape of Good Hope, and N.W. and westerly *""'''• winds from April to October, which is the winter or stormy season. But it must be observed that the S.E. winds are more constant on, and near the Bank of Agulhas, during part of January, the whole of February and March, than at any other time of the year. In April also they are expected, though in this month short gales from the west- ward frequently happen. In May, the winds between N.W. and S.W. prevail more than the S.E. and easterly winds ; sometimes blowing in hard gales along the edge of the Bank. In June, these westerly and N.W. are strong : during this month, and July, and August, they blow with greatest force, producing very high seas ; and were it not for the help of the westerly current setting along the edge of the Bank, ships would find it very difficult to get round the Cape in these months. All ships from India, which, on their passage to Europe, reach tlie eastern part of the Cape Bank from April to September, should be in good condition if possible, and well prepared to resist bad weather ; for they will be liable to encounter storms from W.N.\V. to W.S.W., which may continue two or three days at a time, with short intervals of easterly and variable winds. Many ships, by not being in condition to resist these gales, have sprung leaks, and have been obliged to bear away for St. Augustine Bay, in Madagascar, to repair 102 WINDS AND WEATHER NEAR AGULHAS BANK. Westerly gslcs. Of ships rounding the Cape in winter. Course of the winds. Indications of westerly gales. Cautions of the Dutch. The baro- meter. their damages ;* several have anchored in the Bays to the eastward of the Cape in great distress; others have reached Simons Bay with much difficulty, where they repaired their damages, and refreshed their crews, worn out with fatigue. In August, tiie westerly winds blow not so constant as in June and July, although very hard gales of short duration may be expected. On the 4th of August, 1801, we were in the Anna, near the eastern part of the Bank abreast of Algoa Bay, and got round the Cape of Good Hope on the 14th, having encountered a very severe storm of two days' continuance from W.N.W. and West, in Ion. 24° E. Westerly winds are also frequent in September, October, and November ; and even in December ships have been beating round the Bank against westerly winds during the whole month, before doubling the Cape. They had sometimes very severe sudden squalls ; but in general westerly gales are of short duration in this season, although they blow very strong at times. Notwithstanding what has been mentioned above relative to winds, it sometimes hap- pens that ships get easily round the Cape Bank to the westward in every month of the year ; many have been known to get round in May, June, July, and August, more speedily than others in November and December; for the winds are often different in one year from what they are in another, even in the same month. Around the Cape Bank, as in the open sea far to the S.W., S.E., and southward of the Cape, the winds in changing follow the course of the sun, seldom veering from North to East, &c. ; but mostly from N.W. to West, S.W. and South. After blow- ing strong from N.W. or West, if the wind veer to S.W. and southward, it becomes light, or is succeeded by a calm. If a light breeze continne, it veers to the south-east- ward, where it may keep fixed for a considerable time, but probably not above a day, if it be the winter season. From S.E. it veers to East and N.E., then to N.N.E. and North. In the vicinity of the Bank, the N.E. and northerly winds are very transitory, but inlat. 39° and 41° S. from the meridian of Cape Agulhas to Ion. 45° or 50° E. the north-north-easterly winds are often experienced in both seasons, and sometimes blow steady for a day or two at a time. There are sometimes N.W. or westerly gales, near, and upon the Cape Bank, which blow very hard, with a clear sky ; but those most to be dreaded are generally preceded by heavy black clouds rising from the N.W. and West, with sometimes lightning issu- ing from them, or a noise of distant thunder ; shortly after, the gale may be expected to commence by sudden gusts, and sometimes heavy showers of hail, or whirlwinds from the heavy dense clouds. When the wind at S.E. or E.S.E. shifted to N.E., the Dutch commanders were directed by the company to take in the mainsail. If lightning appeared in the N.W. quarter, they were to wear and shorten sail ; for in the first case, they expected a hard gale at N.W. ; and if lightning was seen in that direction, they thought the gale would commence in the sudden shift, or whirlwind, which might be fatal if they were taken aback. The Marine Barometer is of great utility in announcing the approach of storms near the Cape Bank, by a considerable fall of the mercury. A careful attention to this in- strument, combined with the knowledge which every navigator ought to possess, by observing the appearance of the atmosphere, the surface of the sea, or the heavenly bodies, will be sufficient to warn him of the approach of these storms. Although a fall * Several ships liave perished in these gales : the Princess of Wales, with her crew and passengers, in a fleet homeward-bound from India, also the Ganges, and probably the Skelton Castle, the William Pitt, the United Kingdom, and other ships. DOUBTFUL DANGERS NEAR AGULHAS BANK. 103 of the mercury generally precedes a gale of wind in these latitudes, it is seldom dis- turbed by hard squalls of short duration. In the vicinity of the Cape Bank, and in most parts of the southern hemisphere, the mercury rises with southerly and falls with northerly winds; these proceeding from a warmer atmosphere are more rarefied, consequently tlie mercury falls in tiie barometer, whereas southerly winds coming from the frozen regions near the pole are more dense, and cause the mercury to rise. This ought to be kept in remembrance ; for when the wind was from S.E., I have several times observed the mercury to fall considerably before it changed to the northward, and expected a gale ; but the fall I'esulted only from the warmer air coming in contact with, and repelling the former. From the Cape Bank to the meridian of the South end of Madagascar, hard gales of oaUs to the wind happen in the winter season, accompanied with lightning, thunder, and much caprBank."'^ rain ; which sometimes prove very dangerous to ships, particularly near the land. The Britannia and Bombay Castle, homeward-bound at different seasons, were struck by lightning off the Cape ; the latter ship was near the land at Algoa Bay, in company with a fleet. These ships had each her foremast set on fire by the lightning, which pe- netrated from the head to the centre, bursting out in that part, and could not be got under ; the Britannia was lying to, at the time, in a storm. Both ships were fortunately saved by cutting away their foremasts, which fell clear of them in a body of fire.* In the storms off the Cape Bank, and to the eastward, the sea is turbulent, and they Birds seen bc. are generally accompanied with a black overcast sky. When they are about to com- ^"o^ms"'' ''"""'^ mence, and during their continuance, numbers of albatros, peterels, and other oceanic birds, are seen flying about ; although, in moderate weather, few are perceived, for at this time they rest on the surface of the sea to fish, which they cannot do ia a storm. doVbtful dangers. CANNING BANK (perhaps doubtful), stated to have been discovered by the ship Canning Bank. George Canning, Captain James Clark, September 19th, 1827. At 3 p.m. steering S.E. by E., the sea appeared discoloured, as if in soundings, lat. 39° 40' S. the preced- ing noon. Ion. 26° 43' E. by lunar observations on the 15th brought forward by chro- nometer. The water had previously appeared more discolored at 8 a.m. Hove to at noon, and sounded in 88 fathoms very fine sand with some reddish and black specks ; and there was probably less depth at 8 a.m., but did not then sound. At 5 p.m. got soundings again 100 fathoms hard rocky bottom with rotten ground, the sea at this time having nearly resumed its dark blue colour. Saw the Islands Amsterdam and St. Paul, October 5th. The chronometer then appeared to be 10 miles East, and the lunars 1 mile west of the position assigned to those islands. TELEMAQUE SHOAL, doubtful, said to have been discovered by Captain Teiemaque Shoal. * The Thames, a small ship from Bengal, was near the edge of the bank, in lat. 35° 15' S., Ion. 25" E., No- vember 30th, 1801. She had then strong gales at westward, hard squalls, hail showers, a high sea, and much hghtning all round. At 7 a.m., with a sudden explosion, several fire-balls were seen to strike the ship, when sending down top-gallant yards. Two men were thrown from the main-top-mast head into the sea, and perished : one thrown from the main-top on deck, and two much scorched in the top. One was killed in the fore-top by the lightning, and one man much scorched on deck ; the fore-topsail yard it also set on fire. Hail showers and hard squalls at the time. The Company's ship Macqueen, May 16th, 1829, in lat. 37° S., Ion. 17° E., had her main-top-gallant mast struck by hghtning, which tore that and the top-mast in pieces, filled the deck with sulphureous smoke, and knocked down several of the people at dinner, but none of them were seriously hurt. 104 DOUBTFUL DANGERS NEAR AGULHAS BANK. Geraud, 22tl January, 1786, in the French brigantine, Telemaque, bound to Madras, who, with his passengers, were firmly of opinion that they had passed over a dan- gerous coral shoal of great extent, having, apparently, not more than 2 fathoms on some parts of the rocks ; but they did not sound, owing to the anxiety of considering themselves in imminent danger at the time. This supposed danger they made in lat. 38° 11' S., Ion. 21° 57' E. by account; but its corrected situation was supposed to be lat. 38° 50' S., Ion. 22° 2' East of London. The following discordant positions have been assigned to the Telemaque Shoal, by different ships which have seen apparent dangers, since the existence of that Shoal was first reported. Discoloured water in lat. 39° 9' S., Ion. 23° 24' E., seen by the Crown Prince Frederick, in 1796. Discoloured water extending as far as the eye could reach, in lat. 38° 5' S., Ion. 22° 58|-' E., seen by the American ship, Pallas, in January, 1807. This apparent danger seems also to have been seen by tlie brig Macedon, in May, 1816, who made it in lat. 38° 0' S., Ion. 22° 54J' E. by sun and moon ; it appeared to consist of several patches of breakers, one of which seemed extensive, and soundings of 90 to 40 fathoms were said to have been obtained when near them. It is satisfactory for navigators to know, that they have no longer any cause to ap- prehend danger on the supposed Telemaque Shoal ; for although it is said to have been seen by several ships, as stated above, H.M.S. Heron, Capt. Hanmer, was employed in endeavouring to discover this shoal, and its non-existence has been published in the Government Gazette at the Cape of Good Hope, in a letter from Capt. Hanmer to Capt. F. Moresby, senior officer there at the time of the Heron's return. Appearance of an extensive shoal in lat. 33° 56' S., Ion. 36° E., no part of it above water, seen by the Otter sloop of war, in November, 1810. The Brunswick thought soundings of 85 or 95 fathoms were struck in lat. 37° 20' to 37° 30' S., Ion. 36° 19' E. A rock 20 yards in length, and 6 feet above water, surrounded by a sand-bank, with breakers, as far as the eye could discern from the top-mast-head, in lat. 35° 2.3' S., Ion. 41° 29' E. by chronometer, and 41° 12' E. by lunar observations, was sup- posed to have been seen in the American ship. Union, in July, 1812. A Dutch officer, in October 1795, stated that he discovered a shoal in lat. 31° 44' S., Ion. 41° E. by estimation, upon which he had soundings, the sea running high and confused ; and the water appeared shoal, with breakers to the northward. Soundings thought to have been struck in H.M.S. Belliqueux, August, 1801, ground 80, then 132 fathoms, in lat. 28° 43' S., Ion. 42° 50' E. by O > , and 42° 26' E. by mean of seven ships' chronometers. Three ships of the fleet sounded at the time, but got no groimd at 110, 150, and 170 fathoms. A shoal in lat. 37° S., Ion. about 52° E., is said to have been seen by the American brig, Atalanta. This shoal is also said to have been seen by the Dutch ship, Sama- rang, in August, 1818, and stated to be an extensive reef under water, with some pointed rocks above surface of the sea on its western part, situated in lat. 36° 44' S., Ion. 51° 52' E. Slot Van The Slot Van Capelle Shoal, or Dutch Shoal, said to have been seen by Capt. capeiie Shoal, j^^^^i^ Bows in the ship of this name, in 1746, with breakers on it, and soundings of 62 fathoms grey sand to the S.W. about 4 or 5 leagues, has had various situations assigned to it, viz. lat. 38° 24' S., Ion. 38° 50' E., lat. 37° 24' S., Ion. 38° 50' E., lat. DOUBTFUL DANGERS NEAR AGULHAS BANK. 105 38° 20' S., Ion. 43° 30' E., lat. 36° or 36|° S., Ion. 41° E., and lat. 40° S., Ion. 43° 30' E. The last position but one, viz. lat. 36^° S., Ion. 41° E., assigned to Slot Van Ca- pelle Shoal, nearly corresponds with the following- account transcribed from the journal of Capt. William Bennett, who was an officer in the ship Atomatia, when she got soundings apparently on that shoal. "May l(jth, 1801, strong W.N.W. winds, steering East at the rate of 10 and 11 knots, came suddenly into a smooth sea at 10 p.m., and supposing we were in sound- ings, hove to, got ground 82 fathoms, small glittering shells and gray sand. Steered East by compass A\ miles, and at ^ past 10 sounded again in 02 fathoms, small white shells and sand, with black specks. Steered five miles N.E. by compass, and at half- past 11 P.M. again sounded with 120 fathoms line, but got no bottom. We supposed ourselves to be on the Dutch bank." At noon observed, lat. 36° 1 1' S., from which time computing the run back to ^ past 10 P.M. when they sounded in 62 fathoms, would place that part of tlie bank in lat. 36° 30' S., or 36° 35' S., and in Ion. 43° 43' E. by dead reckoning, carried on from the Island Trinidad, seen on the 21st of April. But they had an observation of the sun and moon for the longitude on the 6th of May, from which, computing the run to the 16th at f past 10 p.m. will place that part of the bank thought to have 62 fathoms on it, in Ion.* 41° 8' E., or 2° 35' West of its situation by account from Trinidad. Notwithstanding the above account, the existence of the Slot Van Capelle Shoal seems still very doubtful. A French ship is said to have passed close to breakers in lat. 38° 8' S., Ion. 43° 6' French shoai E. of London by account, on her passage from Marseilles to the Island Mauritius, in 1788. Spots of discoloured water were seen in the ship Wellington, 9th January, 1817, in lat 39° 53' S., Ion. 71° 43' E., with apparently 8 to 10, or 12 fathoms water over them, resembling coral shoals ; she sailed 7 miles among these patches, which were sepa- rated from each other about one or two hundred yards, and none of them appeared above 60 or 70 yards in diameter. She did not sound, as it blew a gale whilst running through amongst these patches, with an officer on the topsail -yard to direct the course; afterwards she got into clear water, and soon lost sight of them. There is a great probability that the exuviae of fish, patches, and beds of spawn, dead whales, or part of the wrecks of ships, which are not unfrequently seen floating on the sea in these latitudes, during the summer months, have been mistaken at times for banks, shoals, or rocks near the water's edge ; for some of these patches are of a reddish t or brown colour, others resemble saw-dust, and might easily be mistaken for sand-banks. The supposed rock seen by the American ship Union might pro- bably have been a dead whale, surrounded by a bed of fish-spawn resembling a sand- bank, with ripplings like breakers extending from it, occasioned by a collision of currents, which phenomenon has deceived many navigators. It may, however, be prudent to keep a good look-out, when near any of the situations described above, although the existence of most, or even any of these dangers, appears to be very doubtful. Fishes of uncommon size, seen at times in the Southern Ocean, may be mistaken * This is nearly the longitude of the shoal said to have been seen by the Union as stated above, but upwards of a degree fcirther to the South. t When the water in some of these reddish patches is taken up and examined by the microscope, it is sometimes found to contain minute cray fish and other young fry. P 106 ICE ISLANDS. for dangers; an instance of this happened to the ship Hercules, in June, 1816, as may be perceived by the following extract from her journal. At 2i P.M. the man at the mast-head said he saw a rock on the larboard bow, which was thought to be the Slot Van Capelle Shoal, as we were looking out for it ; the weather being fine, steered towards it to have a good view. About 2f p.m. an- other was seen about 2 miles on tlie starboard bow, and we appeared to be passing between them ; shortly afterwards, to our astonishment, saw one right a-bead, not far from us, and while in the act of hauling away from it, we observed it disappear sud- denly, shewing an immense fish's tail as it descended below the surface of the sea. The ship no doubt had disturbed it, as it lay without motion before we got close, the sea then making a small break on the head or fore part of the body of the animal, which was about 16 feet above water, and about 30 feet in circumference, of a white gray colour, covered with a mixture of barnacle, sea-weed, &c., like a wreck that had been long in the water. The length could not be determined, but it must have been great, by the appearance of the discoloured water over the animal. If we had not got sud- denly close to it, we should positively have declared that we had seen rocks above tvater, about a mile distant from each other, as these huge animals lay without motion, part of them about 16 feet above water, and the sea breaking upon them. It is much to be regretted, that modern navigators have reported so many dangers to the southward and eastward of Cape Agulhas, without having examined any of them, leaving their existence in great doubt. Whereas, in none of the Journals of the Company's ships, during the 17th and part of the 18th century, is there any notice of dangers supposed to exist in those seas. ICE ISLANDS. Ice Islands. ICE ISLANDS, usually called ICE-BERGS, have sometimes been mistaken for land by ships which went far to the southward; such probably were Denia and Marse- veen, two small islands placed near each other in some old charts in lat. 41° S., Ion. 21° 30' E., as no land is thought to exist near that situation. Proceeding towards India in the Carron, in February, 1798, we went in lat. 42^° S. in search of westerly winds, where the atmosphere became very cold, with almost con- stant fogs and sleet, the sea being covered with snow peterels, indicating that we were not far from ice ; we were therefore glad to return into lat. 40° and 39|^° S., where we got speedily to the eastward. Ships bound to New South Wales should be careful not to proceed too far South, in running down their easting, for on December 24th, 1789, at half-past 8 p.m., H.M.S. Guardian, bound outward to that place, with stores, struck against an ice island* in a foggy night, in lat. 44^° S., Ion. 44^° E., by account. She soon after nearly filled with water, and the chief part of the crew left her in the boats ; but Captain Riou, and a few of the people, remained in the ship and suffered great hardships ; she continued nearly full of water, and was tossed about a considerable time without a rudder, until she was discovered by a Dutch packet, and towed into False Bay at the Cape of Good * From another ice island, one-half higher than the ship's top-gallant mast head, the boats had previously, at 5 P.M., procured a load of ice for fresh water. The weather became very foggy at ^past 7 p.m., and al- though a good look-out was kept, the ship struck as mentioned above, and after striking hard several times, a gust of wind came through a gully in the ice island, took the sails aback, and cleared her from the ice, with the loss of rudder, and otherwise greatly damaged. Had she remained any longer striking against the lace- rating front of this frightful mountain of ice, she must have immediately been dashed to pieces. ICE ISLANDS. 107 Hope, five weeks after this misfortune; where she was wrecked, by driving on the shore, with several other ships, in a storm. Ice Islands seldom or never have been seen by the Company's ships when passing the Cape Bank in the parallels of latitude from 36° to 41° S., yet it will be perceived, by the account of two ships, now to be narrated, that the phenomenon of dangerous Ice-bergs having been discovered near the Cape of Good Hope, almost in the warm temperature of the verge of current that sets to the westward along the bank, is proved beyond any doubt; and shewing, that greater caution is necessary than hitherto supposed, for it seems very probable, that some missing ships have been lost by striking against Ice-bergs in the night, during tempestuous weather. The French ship. Harmonic, Captain Milchior, from Calcutta, bound homeward, on April 7th, 1828, fell in with several clusters of Ice-bergs in lat. 35° 50' S., Ion. 18° 5' E. of Greenwich, some of which appeared to be 100 feet above water and 200 feet in diameter. She passed between two of them about two cables' lengths from the nearest large pieces of ice, upon which the sea broke violently. When among these Ice-bergs, she spoke the Spanish ship Constancia, from Manilla, bound to Cadiz ; and after the latter ship arrived at Cadiz, the following description appeared in the Diario Mer- cantel, by the pilot of the Constancia: — "April 7th, 1828; at lOf a.m. saw a small island, which, from the deck, appeared like a white cloud, and some shadowy lines were afterwards observed in it, as is usual in land. At 11 a.m., having approached nearer, it appeared to be a large island of considerable height, divided into two summits: soon after, three other small islands were discovered bearing North, at a short distance from the former. At 11^ a.m. we perceived they were white, and that the light of the sun was reflected from their surface as from a mirror, whilst in those places where the sun did not shine, there were shadows as are seen in distant land. We remained perplexed with this phenomenon* till noon, then found we were in lat. .35° 56' S., Ion. 17° 59' E., of Greenwich, by chronometer, corresponding witii lunar observations taken on the preceding day. At this time the islands bore N. 78° W., distant 7 or 8 miles ; sounded but got no bottom at 135 fathoms, and the sea continuing of a green colour, we concluded these were Ice-bergs, which had drifted to lat. 35° 54|' S., Ion. 17° 50i' E. Steered W.S.W. till 2 p.m., and spoke the French vessel, L'Harraonie, from Calcutta, which had been visible since daylight. We then proceeded W.N.W. with a J\.E. and N.N.E. wind, leaving the French vessel behind, and at 3^ p.m. discovered two other Ice-bergs, which we passed on the North side at 1^ p.m., having run 13 miles since 2 p.m. The most southerly of these presented a square of 25 or 30 toises of elevation, but without an apex like the other near it : at the distance of 3 miles to the North of these, another Ice- berg of large size appeared. The French vessel passed between the first and the other which lay W.S.W. of it, and which seemed almost breaking up, as the surface of the surrounding sea was covered with small pieces of ice; some time after, in the dusk of the evening, we passed another Ice-berg, almost dissolved. The wind turned to N.N.W. and N.W. in the night, and blew tempestuously all the following day, without any more ice being seen," The brig Eliza, Captain Jucometti, from Antwerp, bound to Batavia, on the 28th April, 1828, fell in with five floating Ice-bergs in lat. 37° 31' S., Ion. 18° 17' E. of Greenwich, having the appearance of church steeples, and apparently from 250 to 300 feet high, which were passed within a ^ of a mile; and the sea broke so furiously * The magical appearance that an Ice-herg sometimes exhibits by the radiance of the sun, when viewed at a considerable distance, possibly might have been experienced by some of the early navigators when passing the Cape of Good Hope, and thereby have arisen the fable of the Flying Dutchman. p 2 108 ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN. a"-ainst these enormous masses of ice, that at first they were thought to be fixed on some unknown shoal, but on sounding, no bottom could be found. These Ice-bergs were seen by the Eliza, three weeks after the Harmonic and Con- stancia fell in with Ice-bergs in a state of rapid dissolution, nearly on the same meridian, but 33 leagues more to the northward: these could not however have been the same masses of Ice, although probably they all were the production of the same cause, and were carried from the same place by the current: those seen by the Eliza seem, nevertheless, to have been about a month later in reaching the same parallels of latitude than those seen on the 7th April by the above-mentioned ships. The whole of these Ice-bergs were probably drifted by northerly currents, and south-westerly winds and swell, from some extensive tract of land, which was long supposed, and is now found to exist in a high latitude, to the southward of Bouvet and Thompson's Islands, and farther to the eastward than Sandwich Land. But it is rather remarkable that these Ice-bergs were seen in April, which is the autumn of the southern hemisphere ; whereas, in March and April, which are the spring months of the northern hemisphere, the arctic or northern Ice-bergs are usually observed, in the North Atlantic Ocean, to drift farther to the southward before they are dissolved, than at any other time in the year. FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TOWARDS BASS STRAIT. ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN— SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA— WINDS AND CURRENTS. ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN. Bouvet Island. BOUVET ISLAND, OR CIRCUMCISION, was seen at different times, in 1808, by the Swan and Otter, vessels belonging to Messrs. Enderby, and employed in the Southern Fishery. The Swan, Captain Lindsay, on the 6th October, 1808, discovered high land, and from this time till the Ilth, they made every effort to get close to it, without being able to get nearer the land than 3 miles, on account of a mass of solid ice surrounding it, and the land itself was covered with snow. Their situation was rendered very perilous at times, the vessel being beset with loose masses and islands of ice, in dark blowing weather, which forced them to depart from this inhospitable place on the 11th October. The observations taken in the Swan make this island in lat. 54° 16' S., Ion. 6° 14' E.; it appeared about 5 miles in extent East and West, and the West end, which is very high land, Captain Lindsay called Dalrymple Head. This must be ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN. 109 the Cape Circumcision of Mons. Bouvet, discovered by him January 1st, 1739, and placed inlat. 54° 8' S., Ion. 11° 10' E. Captain James Cook could not find tiiis laud, although he got into its parallel considerably to the westward of tiie meridian assigned to it by Bouvet, and he appears to have passed about (J or 8 leagues to the southward of its situation as determined by Captain Lindsay. Our celebrated circumnavigator was therefore of opinion, that Mons. Bouvet had mistaken ice islands for land; but the existence of this island, and another island in its neighbourhood, has been proved beyond all doubt, by the following observations taken from the journals of the Sprightly and Lively, southern whalers, belonging to Messrs. L^nderby. There is reason to believe, that no person ever landed on Bouvet Island until Dec. 16th, 1825, when a whale boat from the Spriglitly landed, and took formal possession of it in the name of King George the Fourth, and named it Liverpool Island, but the name of its first discoverer, Bouvet, ought not to be transferred. The Sprightly fell in witli this island December 10th, and from this date till January 2-ltli, 1820, this vessel and the Lively, her consort, remained in its neighbourhood, having a boat's crew on the island great part of this time, endeavouring to obtain the fur seal skins; but very few were procured, the only place where they could land being at the S.VV. end of the island, called by Captain ]N orris Seal Point. This island appeared to extend North and South about 3 or 4 leagues ; the North end high and rugged, the South end low ; the middle high, covered with snow, and may be seen 12 or 14 leagues in clear weather. It was observed to be of volcanic origin, the surface like a cinder, containing large veins of transparent black lava, some of them interlaid with white streaks. Except at the south-western end, the island presents a steep, inaccessible, rocky coast, but soundings of 35 to 20 fathoms black sandy bottom were got on the South side of it, about a mile off shore. A small rock lies off the S.E. end of the island ; and a high pyramidal rock bears N.VV. by VV. about G miles from its N.W. end, which was at first mistaken for an Ice-berg, it being cased with ice : many other rocks around the island were also observed to be cased with ice, and had been mistaken for Ice-bergs ; the N.W. side of the island is the most dangerous part, being fronted by many perpendicular rocks, and small ice. Bearings of the island, and its estimated distances at noon, on ten different days, when the latitude was observed, are inserted in the Sprightly's log-book ; these noon observations, the least and the greatest, giving 15 miles difference in the latitude of the island, but the mean result of the ten days' observations places the body of Bouvet Island in lat. 54° 21| S.,and the mean of hve days" observations by chronometer will Approximate place it in Ion. 5° 24' E. ; the amount of difference of the longitude given by chrono- p°*'"°"- meter for the island during these five days being 60 miles. The mean of Captain Lindsay's observations, and those of Captain Norris, would place Bouvet Island in lat. 54° 15^' S., Ion. 5° 37' E., which differs not much from the mean approximation given above. THOMPSON ISLAND, discovered December 13th, 1825, by the smack Sprightly, TiK,n,p..on Captain George Norris, with the Lively in company, was found to be rather low, and '"'""''• it appeared of small extent, the sea breaking upon it with great violence. Three rocks, named the Chimneys, lie 4 or 5 miles to the south-eastward of Thompson Island ; and another small rock about 3 miles to the southward of the Chimneys. Captain Norris describes Thompson Island to be in lat. 53° 56' S., Ion. 5° 30' E., and bearing from Bouvet Island N.N.E., distant about 15 leagues; but he states the latter island 110 ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN. to be in lat. 54° 15' S., Ion. 5° E., which, if correct, would make the distance con- siderably less between these islands ; not above 8 leagues. If Thompson Island bears N.N.E. 15 leagues from Bouvet Island, as stated by the navigator named above, then, by the approximated geographical situation of Bouvet Island, the former would be in about lat. 53" 40' S., Ion. 5° 33' E. But if it is only 8 leagues from Bouvet Island, in this case, Thompson Island would be in about lat. 53°^58' S., Ion. 5° 28' E. Weather. In December and January, the Sprightly and Lively experienced very stormy weather in the neighbourhood of these islands. Although the wind was moderate at times, with a glimpse of clear sky, yet the fogs and strong gales came on so suddenly, as to prevent a boat being sent from the vessels with safety, and Bouvet Island was usually enveloped in fog clouds. Almost constant hard gales prevailed from the west- ward, with a high sea, and the current setting to the eastward, by which the vessels were often driven from the island ; and their danger was increased, by numerous Ice- bergs, and loose pieces of ice, with which they were almost daily embarrassed. These vessels went afterwards in a south-westerly direction, as far as lat. 60° S., without discovering any other land, and could not penetrate farther to the southward, on account of a solid Held of ice. Prince Edward Islands. PRINCE EDWARD ISLANDS, two in number, were named by Captain Cook, who passed through the channel between them in December, 1776, and found it about 5 or 6 leagues broad and very safe. These islands are high, and were then covered with snow, and the largest was thought to be about 15 leagues in circuit, the body of it being in lat. 46^ 53' S., Ion. 37° 46' E., the other in lat. 46° 40' S., Ion. 38° 0' E., and about 9 leagues in circuit. These islands afford no place of safe anchorage, although they are sometimes visited by English or American vessels employed in the seal fishery, but seals here are very scarce. croiet Islands. CROZET ISLANDS, five in number, w^ere discovered by the French navigators, Marione du Fresne and Crozet, in 1772, but their positions are not correctly known. They are said to lie from 9° to 12° to the East of Prince Edward Islands, nearly in their parallel, and that the two easternmost islands lie a little more to the southward, and farther to the eastward. The Princess of Wales, schooner, of London, whilst sealing here, was driven on the rocks by a heavy swell, and wrecked, March 18tb, 1821, and her crew, consisting of fourteen persons, remained on these barren islands until the 22d January, 1823, when the Philo, an American schooner, on a sealing and trading voyage, fortunately touched here, and took them from a state of severe suffering, which they had endured nearly two years. Mr. C. M. Goodridge, who belonged to the schooner when she was wrecked, has published a narrative of their misfortunes, and he states that the three westernmost of these islands lie in about lat. 48° S., and about Ion. 48° E. The two smallest, distant about 30 miles from each other, are not above 6 or 8 miles in circuit. The largest of the three is about 25 miles in circum- ference, distant about 30 miles from one of the smallest islands, and about 12 miles from the otiier, these three islands forming an irregular triangle. The two easternmost of Crozet Islands are said by Mr. Goodridge to lie in lat. 461° s.^ and about Ion. 49° E., distant about 1 1 miles from each other, and 50 or 60 miles to the eastward of the three westernmost islands. There is a reef of rocks 4 or 5 miles to the leeward or eastward of the largest of the ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN. 1 1 1 last-mentioned islands, which is particularly dangerous, as vessels would naturally look for shelteer on that side of the island. These and Prince Edward Islands i)ave been sometimes visited by the southern fishers, in search of seals or sea-elephants ; but as they are destitute of any harbour or place of shelter, the landing difficult, and the weather often tempestuous, they are not now frequented by sealing vessels. KERGUELEN ISLAND, discovered by the French navigator of this name, Ktrgudei. called by Captain Cook DESOLATION, is the largest of the islands in this ])art of ^"''"''• the Southern Ocean ; it was frequented by English and American fishers, several of whom used to remain many months there, preparing seal skins and oil, which they collected from the numerous herds of seals and sea-elephants that basked on the shores ; but these animals are now very scarce, having been nearly exterminated. Cape Louis, the western extremity, is in lat. 49° 3' S., Ion. 68° 20' E. ; Cape Digby, the East point, in lat. 49° 23' S., Ion. 70° 33' E. ; Cape George, the southern ex- tremity, in about lat. 50° S., Ion. 70° 10' E. ; and Cape Fran(;ois, the northern promon- tory of the island, is in lat. 48° 40' S., Ion. 69° 4' E. This Cape forms the North side of Christmas Harbour, which has 45 fathoms water at the entrance; 16 fathoms farther in, and near the bottom of it good anchorage, in 8 fathoms black sand, where ships are sheltered from all winds, the harbour being only open to two points of the compass, and these covered by the islands in the offing. The South point terminates in a high rock, which has an arched passage through it, and which is a good mark for distin- guishing this harbour. There are several bays on the coast of Kerguelen Island, with many rocky shoals and islets, which render the approach to the shore dangerous in some places. At a small distance from the N.W. extremity lies a group of small isles, the northernmost of which, called Bligh's Cap, is a high barren rock, in lat. 48° 29' S., Biigh-sCap. Ion. 68° 40' E. The tides here are considerable. ENDERBY* LAND, discovered, in 1831, by Captain John Biscoe, in the brig Enderby Land. Tula, belonging to Messrs. Enderby, during a sealing voyage, appeared to be the northern limit of an extensive tract of land, which may probably stretch far southward beyond the antarctic circle. The central part of the coast seen was observed to be in lat. 66° S., Ion. 49° or 50° E., and the western part in about lat. 67^° S., Ion. 44° E., extending in an E. N. E. direction to about lat. 64i° S., Ion. 52^° E. Captain Biscoe traversed along the above-mentioned limits from West to East, as near as the ice would admit, which then, in January, formed an impenetrable barrier, precluding a close approach or the means of getting a boat through the ice to this land, which appeared almost sealed up with ice and snow, ST. PAULf is the southernmost of two islands situated nearly on the same meri- st.^i'.ui dian, distant from each other about 17 leagues ; the Dutch navigator, Vlaming, who examined these islands in 1697, called the northernmost Amsterdam, and the other St. Paulo, which is better known and more accessible than the former, and may be * The Messrs. Enderby have always been liberal in promoting physical and geographical science, by giving instructions to the commanders of their vessels to make every endeavour for the discovery and explora- tion of land about the antarctic circle, and to penetrate as far South as possible with the same view, without limitation of time or expense. t There appears to be an uncertainty respecting the right appUcation of the names to this and the neigh- bouring island. Most of our more recent charts give the name of St. Paul to the northern, and of Amsterdam to the southern island. 112 ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN. seen about 20 leagues distance in clear weather. It extends about 8 or 10 miles N.W. and S. E., and is about 5 miles in breadth, having a level aspect, and sloping down at each extremity when bearing to the N. E, On the East side of the island there is an inlet to a circular basin, through which the sea ebbs and flows over a causeway at its entrance. A head-land appears on each side the entrance, and a rock 80 or 90 feet high, resembling a nine-pin or sugar loaf, stands at a small distance from the shore on the northern side. Abreast of the basin, there is good anchorage in 21 or 23 fathoms black sand, like wet gunpowder, about a mile from the shore, where ships are sheltered from westerly winds. This is the only A.ui,ora,'e. safe anchorage ; in other parts the bottom is rocky, with deep water near the shore, and, from the western extremity of the island, a reef, on which the sea breaks, projects to a considerable distance. One of the vessels that frequented this island for the seal fishery was driven on shore from her anchors and wrecked, by a sudden shift of wind ; ships, therefore, ought to avoid this anchorage, if there be the least indication of an easterly wind. Mr. Cox, in the ship Gustavus, 30th May, 1789, anchored in 20 fathoms black sand, with the S. E. point of the island S. W. by S., distant 2 miles ; the N. E. point N. i W. 2 miles, entrance into the basin W. by N. 1| miles. Sugar-loaf W. N. W. 1 mile, which was nearly in the spot where Vlaming anchored in 1697. With some difficulty the cutter got over the bar of the entrance into the lagoon, as the tide was running out of it about 2j knots, being then ^ ebb. Long coarse grass obstructed their ascent to the top of the hill, in order to look for fresh water, where it was thought Vlaming found it ; but although fresh water had been discovered there, it would have been very difficult, if not impracticable, to have watered the ship; for pre- sent expenditure it might, however, be valuable to any vessel that intended to remain at the island for a considerable time. Basin. In rowing round the basin, smoke was observed to issue from several places among the stones close to its verge, and a pocket thermometer which stood at 62° in the open air, rose to 190° when immersed in the water, and then in about a minute fell to 185°; Hot Springs, and this was found to take place in several of the hot springs, at different parts of the basin. Sometimes, in the same hole, the thermometer fell from 185° to 182°, and rose again to 187° or 188°. Our people, who were on shore sealing, constantly boiled their dinner of fish in some of the springs, which are in all parts close to the basin, mixing with its waters in some places, and heating them to a considerable extent. And as the basin abounds with fish, and no art is required to catch them, one of the boys, in five minutes, caught a sufficiency for our whole party to eat, so that, as Vlaming says, you may really throw the fish fastened on the hook, out of the cold into the hot water, and boil them. June 1st. — The weather being clear at day-break, saw from our anchorage the Island Amsterdam, bearing by compass from N. 10° E. to N. 22° E. June 5th p.m., blowing hard from N. E. with a great swell, we resolved to put to sea, and run under lee of the island : at five, got a spring on our cable to cast, cut it close to the splice, and went to sea. Anchorage. We lay in a good berth to clear the island on either side, but it would be safer for a large ship to lie about two cables' lengths farther to the eastward, and at the appearance of blowing weather from this direction, to put to sea immediately, and run to leeward of the island, where smooth water will be found ; and as the easterly wind is never of long continuance, she would soon regain the anchorage. There is not a shrub on the island, coarse grass and reeds being the only verdure ISLANDS IN THE SOUTHERN OCEAN. 113 seen : a sort of turf composed of the decayed fibres of the grass and reeds, burnt very well. During our short stay here we killed 1,200 seals; many whales were constantly playing about the ship, said to be of the spermaceti kind, by several of our people who had been in Greenland. In the basin we caught bream, some red perch, anti a fisli resembling a tench. Those Fish. caught on board were generally a sort of bream, striped like a mackerel ; of these, so many were caught the first day, that besides salting and pickling several i)arrels, we threw some hundreds over board. The instant fish are caught, they should be gutted and salted ; if exposed to rain before they are salted and packed, they will perish, as we experienced. The ship Clyde, Captain Blair, in October 1820, procured vegetables here, which had been planted near the basin, by a Frenchman, who, with his four slaves, cure fish for a vessel which transports them annually to the Island of Mauritius. To the southward of the entrance of the basin ]^ miles, in 23 fathoms water, two boats caught above five tons of fish, a species of excellent cod, in a few hours, which were served to the crew and troops on board the Clyde. Vlaming says, " Near the right road is a salt-water pond, whereto the seals go over viaming's de. the rock that separates it from the sea, about 20 paces. This pond is shaped like a thcblsi'n."' half-moon, and about a pistol shot long." But this pond is now a large basin, at least 2^ miles in circuit, forming almost a complete circle; it is therefore probable, that since his time the sea has formed the present channel into it, and enlarged it to its present size. The Hindostan anchored here in 1793, about 1^ miles East from the entrance of the Himiosuns basin, when bound out with the embassy to China. On examination, the basin was ''"""i"'"" found to be the crater of a volcano, its circumference at the water's edge being 2,980 yards, or nearly If miles. By taking the perpendicular height of the surrounding sides at 700 feet, and the angle of their inclination at 65°, the circumference of the crater will be 2 miles and 160 yards. The depth of water 29 fathoms, or 174 feet, added to the average height of 700 feet, will make the whole depth of the crater 874 feet, and it is a pretty regular ellipsis. The entrance into the basin is about 25 yards wide, formed by two narrow causeways, or ridges of rocks that run out from two peaks, which terminate the sides of the crater, one on each side; that on the right is 743 feet high, and at its foot, on the causeway, there is a hot spring, where the thermometer stood at 212°, at which were boiled some fish ; and this is the general standard of heat at all the springs round the water's edge. From the ship at anchor, fire was seen to issue from various crevices on the island during the night, it being fraught with subterraneous fire. From the North and West points of the island breakers project about | mile into the sea. The tide rises about 3 feet, high water at full and change of the moon about Tides, &c. 11 o'clock. Sealers who have resided on this island, state the weather to be fine in summer, but stormy in winter, whirlwinds sometimes tearing the water from the surface of the cra- ter. Torrents of rain, which burst over the hills, pour down and form ravines in them. The variation in 1747, was 17° 35' W.; in 1764, it was 18° 45' W. ; in 1789, it was Variation. 19° 45' W. ; and it was 19° 50' W. in the crater in 1793. By good observations, the anchorage off the basin is in lat. 38° 42' S., and the South end of the island in 38° 47' S. The mean of ten ships' observations by moon and chronometers, made it in Ion. 77° 51' E. ; the fleet bound to China in 1804, under convoy of H.M. Ship Athenienne hove to under lee of it, Uth of October, and the n)ean of nine ships' ob.servations by moon and chronometers, made it in Ion. 77° 53' E. Several navigators, however, have Q 114 PASSAGE FROM ST. PAUL TOWARDS BASS STRAIT. Amsterdam Island. by their observations, made it fartlier to the westward ; amongst whom Captain T. Lavender, of the ship Roman, of New York, during three diflerent voyages, has made it between Ion. 77° 22|' and 77° 27' E. It is therefore prudent to keep a good look out, particularly in thick weather, as the longitude of this island is not yet correctly ascertained. AMSTERDAM ISLAND, situated on the same meridian as St. Paul, distant about 17 leagues from it, lies in about lat. 37° 52' S., Ion. 77° 52' E. ; being about 12 miles in circuit and high land, it may be discerned 18 or 20 leagues in clear weather. In 1697, Vlaming, the Dutch navigator, anchored in 16 fathoms black sand, on a spot about a cannon-shot from the shore, at the South part of the island ; they landed, but found no water, and the bushes and rushes on this side made it difficult to penetrate into the interior. In 1770, the Morse sent her boat on shore, part of the crew landed with difficulty, and found the island covered with high grass and shrubs, but very little water could be discovered. Admiral D'Entrecasteux, in passing this island 29th March, 1792, observed it to be all in a blaze, the smoke indicating vegetables on fire, which were probably set on fire by -sealers, or by lightning, consequently the vegetation on it may be now diminished. Some little rivulets were perceived on the S.E. side, and it was thought that the sloping of the mountains here would afford an easy landing in favourable weather. He places the West Point in lat. 37° 47|' S., Ion. 77° 55i' E. Captain Wickham visited this island in 1837, and places the highest part in lat. 37° 52' S., and Ion. 77° 34' 30" E. ; giving 2,750 feet as its height above the level of the sea. Strong westerly gales prevail near these islands in the winter months, with thick hazy weather, rendering caution necessary when they are approached. Although patches of sea-weed extend to a considerable distance from them, yet these are not always observed in coming from the westward, particularly when the winds blow from this direction. Passage from St. Paul througii Bass •Strait or round Van Diemen Land. THE PASSAGE from ST. PAUL, through BASS STRAIT, or round VAN DIEMEN LAND, has sometimes been followed by ships which departed too late from England to pursue the common route for China ; and instead of passing through any of the straits East of Java, as usual, when late in the season, they proceeded round New Holland by the route of the Pacific Ocean ; which, although circuitous, and ought not to be adopted under usual circumstances, yet some ships have made toler- able passages to China by this route. The Walpole left the Cape of Good Hope 21st September, 1794, with a fleet, parted company 7th October in lat. 39° 5' S., Ion. 61° 42' E., rounded the South Cape of Van Diemen Land 31st, passed to the East of New Caledonia, and reached Canton River 5th January, 1795. H.M. Ship Athenienne, with a fleet for China, passed St. Paul 11th October, 1804, entered Bass Strait 28th, passed to the eastward of New Caledonia, and reached Pedro Branco on the coast of China 28th December. Since the discovery of Bass Strait, the passage through it is generally preferred to that round Van Diemen Land, as it is equally safe, and greatly shortens the distance. A ship having passed the Island St. Paul, and intending to pass through Bass Strait, may get into lat. 39° or 39|;° S., then steer East on this parallel ; as she ad- vances, the Variation will rapidly decrease ; in about Ion. 132° E. there will be none ; and having advanced 1° or 2° more to the eastward, she will begin to have easterly Variation ; at King Island, in the West entrance of Bass Strait, it was 7° 38' East in 1807. SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 115 SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA. CAPE LEEUWIN (Lioness), the S.W, extremity of Australia, is iu iat. 34° 22' CapcLmuvi,,. S., Ion. 1 15° a' E. by Captain Flinders, who says, it appeared to be formed by an island lying close to the main land. The Cape is ratlier high, being visible 10 leagues in fine weather, and has rocky islets and breakers ott" it to the distance of r> or (J miles between S.E. and S.W. The coast to the JN.VV. also has several islets off it, and the Geographe and Rambler Rocks bear respectively W. by N. 10 miles, and W.N.W. 10 miles from the Cape. An inlet or river on the N.W. side of tiie Cape is fronted by an island, which obscures it from the view of a ship passing outside, but there is thought to be a navigable passage on each side of the island leading into the river. There is a bay on the East side of the Cape, called in some charts Flinders Bay, destitute of shelter, and thought to be dangerous. Soundings of 80 or 85 fathoms are found about 9 or 10 leagues to the S. by W. of this promontory. The chief places of shelter known on the South coast of Australia between Cape PUcesof Leeuwin and Bass Strait, where a ship might procure fresh water in case of necessity, are the following : — shelter. KING GEORGE SOUND, the entrance of which is formed on the South side King George by Bald Head, in Iat. 35° O^' S., Ion. 118° 1' E., is convenient for refitting, wooding and ^''""''• watering, and is well sheltered froui all winds but those from eastward ; and froui these winds it is partially protected by Michaelmas and Breaksea Islands, which lie mid-way in its entrance. Another island, called Seal Island, lies mid-way between the points which form a large bay inside to the westward of Bald Head. There are several good anchorages in this bay, and there are two harbours, called Oyster Harbour, and Princess Royal Harbour, at the bottom of the sound, which are per- fectly secure. Captain King observes, that among the many convenient anchorages in this Sound, the best place for a large ship to refit is Princess Royal Harbour, but for a small vessel Oyster Harbour. A ship only wanting wood and water will find good anchorage in a sandy bay in the S.W. corner of the Sound, in which 2 or 3 streams of excellent water run into the sea over the sand. This bay may be known by its being- the first to the westward of a rocky point that projects from some remarkable bare .sand hillocks ; as also being the second sandy beach to the westward of tlie low flat rocky islet near the shore inside Seal Island. The anchorage between Seal Island and tiie first sandy beach to the westward of Bald Head with the low flat islet bearing West, in () or 7 fathoms, is preferable during the summer months. The approach to Bald Head is pointed out by the Eclipse Isles, which lie between 2 and 3 leagues to the south-westward of it. Although there is no set of tide in the Tides. sound, it is said to run with considerable strength in the narrow entrances of these harbours, making high water once in 24 hours, and this always between 6 and 12 at night, A settlement has been fixed at King George Sound, which appears to flourish, the country around being well watered, adapted for agriculture, and the climate tem- perate and healthy, PORT LINCOLN, about 7 leagues North from Cape Catastrophe, the S.W^. Port Lincoln, extremity of Spencer Gulf, is a very secure harbour, discovered by Captain Flinders, in February, 1802, where fresh water is got by digging pits at the head or western extremity of the port. Its entrance is 5 miles wide, between Cape Donington and Point Boston, having Boston Island midway within these points. The channel for q2 116 BASS STRAIT. ships is between the Island and Cape Donington, Ion. 135° 53' E. Lat. of Point Boston 34° 40' S., Nepean Boy. Hammant Island. Pollock Reef. Brockman Reefs. Clint Kock. NEPEAN BAY, at the N.E. part of Kangaroo Island, is sheltered from all winds but those from the North : Captain Flinders seems not to have found any fresh water convenient for ships at this place, but plenty of Kangaroos were shot. The South and West coasts of Kangaroo Island were not explored, but Investigator Strait, formed between the North side of the island and Cape Spencer, is wide and safe ; Back Stairs Passage is above 2 leagues wide, formed between the East end of the island and Cape Jervis, having some islets called the Pages at its entrance, but it affords a safe approach, and is the shortest route to Nepean Bay. Point Marsden, which is the North extreme of Kangaroo Island and the N.W. Point of this Bay, is in lat. 35° 33' S., and Ion. 137° 41' E. HAMMANT ISLAND, discovered by Capt. Hammant in the brig Endeavour, 6th July 1817, at 7 a.m., he made in lat. 36° 27' 8., Ion. 137° 2' E., and it appeared to be about 30 feet in height and 40 yards in circuit, with breakers bearing from it S.W. 3 miles, another breaker, N.W. by N. 6 miles, and a third breaker bearing from it N.E. by E. about 1 mile. Afterwards, at 10 a.m., saw Kangaroo Island, distant about 7 leagues.* POLLOCK REEF, discovered by Capt. J. S. Pollock, of the barque Merope, on his voyage from Western Australia to Van Diemen Land in 1834, is a dangerous narrow shoal, with apparently about 2 feet water on it, extending 8 or 10 miles in an East and West direction, and about 100 yards in breadth. The western extremity, upon which part only the sea broke, is in lat. 34° 35' S., Ion. 123° 26' E., or 14 miles S. I W. from the S.E. island of the Recherche Archipelago. BROCKMAN REEFS, discovered by Capt. J. Brockman, of the schooner Eagle, on his voyage from Hobart Town, Van Diemen Land, to Swan River, are situated nearly 20 leagues to the southward of Kangaroo Island, and seemed to be very dan- gerous. At noon, December 21st, 1831, l)eing in lat. 36° 17' S., Ion. 137° 21' E. by chronometer, saw from the mast head heavy breakers, bearing S. by E. ^ E. by com- pass about 5 or 6 leagues, and another patch of breakers W.S.W. about the same distance. Next day was within 4 or 5 miles of these reefs, and the southernmost ap- peared to be 3 or 4 miles in length, with several small rocks scattered over it, a few feet above water. The western reef was rather less in extent, with similar dry docks, and high breakers on both of them ; and there appeared to be a passage about a mile wide between them. Hove to, in the night, and at day-light next morning were within ^ a mile of another reef of rocks, partly dry and about 100 yards in length, apparently about 10 miles distant from the nearest part of Kangaroo Island, and on the parallel of the western extremity of that island. No soundings were taken when in sight of these reefs, as the sea appeared to be deep all around. At noon, 22d, the southern reefs were not in sight, nor was any part of Kangaroo Island visible when near them, although the weather was clear. CLINT ROCK, discovered in August, 1832, by the cutter Mary Ann, of Sydney, on her passage from King George Sound towards Hobart Town, was approached * There appears to be considerable doubt respecting the position, and even the existence of this island. It is placed in the Admiralty Chart in lat. 38° 32' S., Ion. 127° E. (doubtful). BASS STRAIT. 117 Harbinger Rceh. New Year Isles, &C. very close ; being only about ten feet above water, very small, with birds resting on it, and not being marked in the charts, must consequently be dangerous to vessels passing in its vicinity during thick weather, or in the nigiit. By the reckoning from St. George Sound, this danger lies in lat. 37° S.,'lon. 139° E., which is probably correct within a few miles ; for although observations were not obtained, yet on making the land afterwards, the dead reckoning was found nearly true. No places of shelter have yet been discovered between Kangaroo Island and Bass Strait, and few parts of the coast afford any fresh water. Soundings extend a consi- derable way out, along the whole coast from Cape Leeuvvin to Bass Strait. CAPE OTWAY, in lat. 38° 50' S., Ion. 143° 32' E., is a high promontory, bounding CapeOtway the West entrance of Bass Strait on the JNorth side. The entrance between the Cape island."*^ and the North end of KING ISLAND is about 14 leagues wide, the latter being in lat. 39° 34' S., Ion. 143° 55' E. A Reef projects from Cape Otway about a mile ; but the coast from the Cape to Port Philip is free from danger and has regular soundings off it. About 3 or 4 miles W. N. W. of the North point of King Island lie the Harbinger Reefs, consisting of high breakers in patches, with a passage through them, and another between them and the island, and there is a rock, called Navarin rock, between 4 and 5 miles farther to the eastward, bearing from the North end of King Island N. E. 1^ miles. Captain VVickham, who, in 1838, examined this part of Bass Strait in H.M.S. Beagle, says that the North end of King Island should not be approached nearer than 5 miles, as within that distance the tides are strong (between 2 and 3 knots), and there is generally a heavy swell. New Year Isles are a little farther to the south- ward, fronting a bay on the N.W. side of King Island, where vessels can anchor well sheltered from easterly winds. There is anchorage inside them in from 6 to 9 fathoms f of a mile off shore. The brig Harington rode close under New Year Isles, during a gale at S.W. ; but the best anchorage in westerly winds is on the N. E. side of King Island, in 10 or 12 fathoms sand, where there is a fresh water lake inland. The South Point of King Island is in about lat. 40° 9' S., and the extent of the Island from North to South being about 11 leagues, and 6 leagues from East to West: it may be seen at the distance of 10 or 12 leagues. Sea-Elephant Bay, on the middle of the East side, and the Bay of Seals at the S. E. side of the island, also aflbrd shelter from West and N.W. winds. The tide rises 12 feet ; high water about 3^ hours on full and change of the moon. The channel between the South end of King Island and Hunter Isles, fronting the N. W. end of Van Diemen Land, may be used if necessary; but as Reid rocks, and other dangers nearly in mid-channel, are not sufficiently explored,* the North channel is preferable. WILSON PROMONTORY, in lat. 39° 11' S., Ion. 146° 24' East, projects nearly wiison Pro- South about 8 leagues from the low land of the main, forming the northern boundary "'°"«»''y- of the East part of Bass Strait, and may be seen 15 leagues. This, the southernmost land of Australia, is easily known by its height, and several groups of islets around. REDONI>0, a white pyramidal rock, distant about 3 leagues, nearly South from the * Bell llock, with the sea breaking over it, was discovered 13th November, 1824, by Capt. Bell, in the Minerva, who passed between it and Reid Rocks, within J a mile of the Breakers. When on the Black Pyramid, the Breakers bore E.S.E., nearly | a mile distant ; Reid Rocks then bearing North about 5 or 6 miles ; cloudy weather obscured King Island at the time. — The following positions of these dangers are given by Captain Wickham, R.N. Bell Rock, lat. 40° 23' S., Ion. 144° 7' E. ; Reid Rocks (centre), lat. 40^ 15' S., Ion. 144° 9' E. ; Black Pyramid, lat. 40° 28' S., Ion. 144° 19' E. Captain R. Drinkwater Bethune, of H.M.S. Conway, places a rock in lat. 40° 24' S., Ion. 144° 0' E. Tides. 118 BASS STRAIT. Sir Roger Curtis Isles. Devils Tower, Crocodile Rock. Kent Groups. Pyramid. Wright Rock. Craggy Island. Endeavour Rock. promontory, and bearing E. f N. trite from the North part of King Island, distant 37 leagues, may be discerned 10 or 11 leagues. MONCUR ISLES, a small group, lie 2 leagues East of Kedondo ; and HOGAN GROUP lies East of Redondo about 8 leagues, being in Ion. 147° 2' E., and are high islands. SIR ROGER CURTIS ISLES, distant 39 or 40 leagues trtie East from the North end of King Island, may be seen about 11 leagues, the southernmost of them being two small and high peaked rocks, situated on the parallel of the North end of King Island, but the northern island is much larger. DEVILS TOWER lies about 2 or 3 leagues to the N. E. of the North, or largest isle of Sir Roger Curtis Group ; it is called also Fortification Isle. CROCODILE ROCK lies nearly in mid-channel, between Redondo and Sir Roger Curtis Isles, and is very dangerous. The Castle of Good Hope, Capt. M'Askill, 7th February, 1803, running at the rate of 9 miles per hour, in order to get through Bass Strait before night, saw when entering the channel between Sir Roger Curtis Isles and Redondo, breakers a-head very close ; the helm was put down, sail instantly reduced, and the ship cleared the rock about ^ a cable's length, upon which the sea foamed with breakers. It appeared about 12 or 14 yards in extent where the sea broke, but has probably a greater base, and although a part of this rock is only 2 feet under water, the sea perhaps does not break on it at high tides when the weather is fine. From Redondo it bears about S. E. ^ E. 7 miles, and from Sir Roger Curtis Isles N. VV. \ W., distant about 11 miles, and is steep to. Captain Park, of the Cato, 3d April, 1803, also saw the Crocodile Rock, and passed within a mile of it, in 45 fathoms water, the sea then breaking high upon it : he states, that it bears S. E. by E. 2^ leagues from Redondo, and 5 leagues S. E. by S. from Wilson Promontory.* KENT GROUPS, bearing trve east from Sir Roger Curtis Isles, distant about 9 leagues, consist of two detached groups, the smaller about 1\ or 3 leagues W.S.W. of the larger, one of them being of a remarkable form, and called Judgment Rock. All these isles are steep, rocky and barren ; and the two largest may be seen at 10 or 12 leagues distance ; between these there is a safe channel, where small vessels might be sheltered from easterly or westerly winds, in two small coves, with sandy beaches at their head. There is also a safe channel between the two groups. THE PYRAMID, in lat. 39° 52' S., is a high rock, bearing S. S. W. from the body of Kent Group, distant about 6 or 7 leagues; another rocky islet, sometimes called Wright Rock, lies about 4 leagues to the S. E. of Kent Group ; and about 2 leagues farther in the same direction Craggy Island is situated, nearly midway between Wright Rock and the N.W. end of Great Furneaux Island. ENDEAVOUR ROCK, discovered in 1817, by Capt. Haramant, in the brig of this name, and placed in lat. 39° 38' S., Ion. 147° 35' E., is thus described by him. When the South end of Kent Group bore W. by N., Craggy Island, S. S. E., the islet called * The position of Crocodile Rock was satisfactorily determined by Capt. Hobson, R.N., in 1837, and re- ported to Capt. Beaufort as follows. The Rock bears from Redondo S. 42° E. 6 miles ; from Sir Roger Curtis I. (summit), N. 47° W. 11^- miles, and from Devils Tower, West, 13^ miles. He describes its S.E. end, for a space of probably 50 yards, as elevated 3 or 4 feet above high water, with a reef extending J of a mile to the N.W. He recommends ships coming from the westward to keep Devils Tower to the northward of E. by N., or to the southward of E. by S., as a means of avoiding it. — Naut. Mag. for 1837, p. 606. BASS STRAIT. 119 Wright Rock S.W. by S., saw a reef with two small rocks on it, visible at the rebound of the sea, bearing- S. | VV., being then low water; tl)is danger lies in a line be- tween Craggy Island and Wright Rock, about a third of the distance from the latter, and directly in the track recommended by some navigators for passing throu'di the strait.* THE CHANNELS between all these groups of islands from Wilson Promontory to channek Furneaux Islands are safe in the day time with moderate weather, taking care to avoid the Crocodile Rock, if the channel between Redondo and Sir Roger Curtis Isles be adopted ; and the Endeavour Rock, if the channel to the South of Kent Group is fol- lowed ; but great caution is necessary, if a stranger attempt to pass through any of them in the night. BANKS STRAIT, formed between Furneaux Island and the N.E. end of Van Banks sirait. Diemen Land, is also safe, but not so much frequented, nor so wide as the channels to the northward ; it lies out of the direct route of ships coming from the westward through Bass Strait bound to Port Jackson, or other parts to the northward. BASS STRAIT should be approached with caution, by ships coming from the Directions tor westward, if not certain of their latitude, which ought to be correctly ascertained, be- BasTstrait"''''' fore they reach Ion. 143^° E.: and the strait ought not to be entered in the night, unless the land has been previously seen, or botli the latitude and longitude be known, by observation. The parallel of 39° or 39° 20' S., according as the wind may incline, is the best track for passing between King Island and Cape Otway ; and a sight of either, or preferably of both, will point out the true situation. Westward of the North end of King Island, at 10 leagues distance, there are sound- ings from 65 to 70 fathoms sand, which will indicate the proximity of the Strait in thick weather. The only danger to be apprehended here is the Harbinger Reefs, two patches situated nearly two leagues to the N.W. of the north end of King Island ; but are so far separated from it, and from each other, as to leave passages between them, in case of necessity, where the shoalest water found by the Cumberland schooner was 9 fathoms. Having passed the North end of King Island, a course should be made good from it E. by S. for Sir Roger Curtis Island, and part of this distance may be run in the night with a good look out : the soundings in this track to the eastern part of the strait are regular, from 35 to 48 fathoms, fine sand and shells. The best track is on the South side of Sir Roger Curtis Isles, and on either side of Kent Groups, keeping near the southernmost island of the group, if the South channel is chosen, to avoid the En- deavour Rock ; then steer E.N. E. if nearly before the wind, or on either side of this course, as the wind may incline, taking care not to approach the northern Long Beach formed between Wilson Promontory and Cape Howe, which becomes a concave lee shore with a S.E. gale. This makes the channel South of Kent Groups preferable at times, to those North of them ; but with a steady N.W. wind and settled weather, either of the channels South of Redondo might be pursued occasionally ; then a course steered well to the eastward to give a berth to the Long Beach, and Cape Howe may be rounded at any reasonable distance. The most convenient places for anchoring in the Strait with easterly winds are Andiuring (according to Capt. Flinders, from whose survey the preceding directions for Bass Strait casJ^^riy winds. are chiefly taken) under the N.W. end of King Island, near the New Year Isles; in * The bearings here given will not place the danger in tlie position here described. 120 BASS STRAIT. Port Philip, just within the entrance, on the South side, so that when a fair wind comes, a ship can get out of the port by help of strong tides ; Hunter Isles, between Three- Hum mock and Barren Islands, taking care not to anchor too close to the weather shore, lest the wind change suddenly ; on the West side of Wilson Promon- tory, iti a case of necessity only, for this place is dangerous, if the wind change sud- denly to S.W., as a deep bay is formed between the Promontory and Cape Liptrap ; Kent's Large Group, for brigs and small vessels, in one of the small sandy coves under the eastern island; Furneaux Islands, between Clarke and Preservation Islands; and if a ship be not able to weather Clarke Island, and pass out to the S.E. ward through Bank Strait when the wind becomes fair, she may run through Armstrong Channel, with a boat a-head and a good look out. Port Philip. PORT PHILIP is an extensive lagoon or basin, 60 or 70 miles in circumference, with an entrance less than 2 miles wide. It is the westernmost harbour on the North side of Bass Strait, distant 17 or 18 leagues to the north-eastward of Cape Otway, and the entrance is in lat. .38° 18' S., about 4 leagues to the eastward of a bluff headland without trees, rising from low land thickly wooded. The soundings about 3 miles from the entrance are 20, 12 and 13 fathoms, decreasing to 7 or 8 fathoms near it, and until 3 or 4 miles within the entrance, irregular from 6 to 12 fathoms. A reef projects from each side of the entrance, and the ebb tide runs out of it at the rate of 5 or 6 miles an hour at springs, resembling breakers. The entrance is formed by Point Lons- dale on the West and Point Nepean on the East. About 2^ miles inside Point Lonsdale is Shortland Bluff, and about the same distance beyond the Bluff is Point Swan. The shore inside Point Nepean returns in a direction nearly parallel with the coast outside, having Observatory Point and Point King at the distance of \^ and 4 miles respectively from the entrance. On this shore also, about 15 miles E. by S. from Point Nepean is the hill called Arthur's Seat, which is the highest land on the coast. There are three principal channels for proceeding to Hobson Bay at the head of the Port ; the western one is the most direct, and for which the following directions are given by Capt. Hobson, under whose orders the Port was surveyed in 1836. — A fair wind or a flood tide is indispensable to enter Port Philip, in which case keep in mid- channel between Point Nepean and Point Lonsdale, and steer for Shortland Bluff until Point Nepean bears S.E. by S., then pass to the westward of Pope's Eye, (a small shoal 2 miles N.E. of Point Nepean) by keeping Swan Point to the northward of N. f E. until Shortland Bluff bears VV. | S. and steer for the entrance of the chan- nel which lies between the West Bank (which joins the shore) and William Sand. To clear the bank off Swan Point, keep Point Lonsdale just open of Shortland Bluff, until Swan Point bears N. | W. The course is then N. N.E. and the mid- channel will be preserved by keeping Point Nepean a little open of Swan Point. The soundings are from 4 fathoms in the centre to 2f at the sides, from which the banks shoal suddenly to 5 or 6 feet, and in some places dry at low water. When Sta- tion Peak (a high mountain to the N.W.) is seen over the North red cliff bearing N. 72° W., you are clear to the northward of the banks and will be in 7 fathoms water. The course will then be N. by E. ^ E. to the anchorage in Hobson Bay off William Town. It is always advisable to keep a look-out from the mast-head whence the shoals may generally be distinguished. The tide runs from 2 to 3 knots per hour following the direction of the channel. Although this is an excellent harbour, or rather a very extensive lagoon, having a rivulet falling into the upper part of it, there is no fresh water in the vicinity of the entrance, the nearest being found at the south- eastern angle of the harbour to the westward of the hill called Arthur's Seat. Capt. SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA — WINDS AND CURRENTS. ]21 Wickham places the jetty of Hobson Bay in lat. 37° 51' S., Ion. 6° 19' W. of Sydney. Var. 8° 45' E. (1838). WESTERN PORT, entrance, in lat. 38° 31' S., distant about 8 or 9 leagues E.S.E. wes.en, i-,,,,. from Port Philip entrance, is formed by Cape Sclianck on tiie West side, and the West point of Philip Island, called Point Grant, bounds its eastern side. The PsOrth side is lined by shoals, making it necessary to keep near to Point Grant and the North side of Philip Island, in steering E.N.E. into the port. This harl)()ur may be chosen as a place of shelter, if a ship is driven near its entrance by a southerly gale, being much wider than the entrance of the former port; and there is fresh water up a rivulet at its south-eastern angle. The coast between Port Philip and Western Port presents a continued barrier of rock, with a heavy swell generally tumbling in upon it from south-westward. SEALERS COVE, at the eastern angle of Wilson Promontory, has depth of SeaUrs cove. water for a ship, and room for a small vessel to swing: it is only open from E.N.E. to E.S.E. , but these winds throw in very little sea; the tide rises 10 or 11 feet; tmcs. high water 2 hours before the moon passes the meridian. Wood and fresh water may be procured in abundance. Seal Islands lie N.E. from the Cove. WINDS AND CURRENTS. THE WINDS near Cape Leeuwin blow generally from westward; in summer, winds near varying from N.W. in the night, to S.W. in the latter part of the day, though not re- ^°''* L^uwin. gular; and in winter this variation is not experienced. A long swell appears to come at all times from S.W., indicating that the strongest and most durable winds blow from that quarter, which is confirmed by experience. From the Archipelago of Recherche, along the South coast to Bass Strait, from the middle of January to the middle of April, the prevailing winds are between S.E. and E.N.E. ; coming more from the land at night, and from the sea in the day, but seldom strong; whereas the winds which occasionally blow from westward are always fresh, and sometimes become gales, veering in this case invariably to the S.W. In Bass Strait the gales and strongest winds come from S.W., and during nine CaUsinBass months of the year they generally blow from the western quarter. In January, '^'""• February, and March, easterly winds with fine weather are not uncommon ; but these are not to be depended on at any other season. The gales usually come between S.W. and S.E., most frequently from the latter direction, rendering it hazardous to approach the coast between Cape Howe and Wilson Promontory. On the eastern side of the Strait, and of Van Diemen Land, North or N.E. winds not unfrequently happen, but seldom blow strong. Off the South coast of Australia, speaking generally, it may be considered that during the six or eight winter months tlie winds blow almost constantly from some western point, and that gales of winds at S.W. are frequent. The progress of the winds on ti,i gales is usually this : the barometer falls to 2.9| inches, or lower, and the wind rises ^'""' <^""^'- from the N.W. with thick weather, commonly "with rain; it veers gradually to the West, increasing in strength, and when it veers to the southward of that point, the weather begins to clear up ; at S.W. the gale blows hardest, and the barometer rises, and by the time the wind gets to South or S.S.E., it becomes moderate, with fine weather, and the barometer above .30 inches. Sometimes, the wind may return back to West, or more northerly, with a fall in the mercury, the wind diminishing in R 122 SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA-^WINDS AND CURRENTS. Winils on the East Coast, Barometer. Northerly strength, or dying away ; but the gale is not over, although a cessation of a day or two may take place. In some cases, the wind flies round suddenly from N.W. to S.W., and the rainy, thick weather, then continues a longer time. Such is the usual course of the gales along the South Coast, and in Bass Strait ; but on the East side of the Strait the winds partake of the nature of those on the East Coast, where the gales often blow hardest between South andS.E., with thick weather, and frequently with heavy rain. The barometer rises generally with southerly winds on the South Coast, and falls with northerly winds. On the South, East, and West coasts of Australia, sea winds, when the weather is moderate, almost always raise the barometer which falls with land winds. Northerly winds do not prevail near the land, but in lat. 40° and 44° S., to the west- ward of Van Diemen Land, strong N.N.E.* winds often happen, shifting sometimes suddenly to N.W. and westward. Several ships have experienced these northerly winds when steering for Bass Strait, which have driven them to the southward of that route, and obliged them to proceed round Van Diemen Land. In July 1802, the Perseus running in lat. 40° S., for Bass Strait, had strong North, and N.N.E. winds, with a southerly current, several degrees to the westward of the Strait, which forced her to go round Van Diemen Land ; here, the winds were very changeable, much from south-eastward, with northerly currents, till her arrival at Port Jackson late in July. In November, 1800, the Royal Admiral, in lat. 43° to 44° S., running East for Van Diemen Land, had the winds mostly at N.N.E. and N.W. ; sometimes at West and W.S.W. When round Cape Van Diemen, she had North and N.E. winds three days, then variable between East and S.S.W. till her arrival at Port Jackson on the 20th of November. Currents. THE CURRENT, near Cape Leeuwin, is separated into two branches, one run- ning northward along the West Coast of Australia, and the other running to the eastward along the South Coast ; which Captain Flinders attributes to the strength of the prevailing S.W. winds, impelling the water of the ocean towards the land, and this meeting with the Cape is deflected in different directions as mentioned above. From Cape Leeuwin to King George Sound, the current was found to set eastward in May and December, about 27 miles daily. From thence to a little beyond the Archi- pelago of Recherche, in with the shore it set N.E. 13 miles ; and at a considerable dis- tance from the coast it ran N.E. by E. 16 miles per day, the wind being more from the southward than from the northward in botii cases. In coasting all round the Great Australian Bight, from the x^rchipelago to Cape Northumberland, very little current was perceived, and it generally followed the im- pulse given to it by the winds ; but in May, crossing the Great Bight, it ran about 14 miles per day to north-eastward, the winds prevailing strong from the southward. In Bass Strait, the current does not set to the eastward in common cases, as the flood comes from that direction, and flows westward to Hunter Islands, and King Island, where it meets another flood from the southward : but the Bight on the North side, between Cape Otway and Wilson Promontory, lies out of the direct set of the tides. Nevertheless, if the wind blow strong from westward, it will be prudent to allow for an easterly current, which, during a West and S.W. gale, has been found to set S. 73° E., about 35 miles in one day. * These winds also happen in the same latitudes, from the meridian of Cape Agulhas to Van Diemen Land, and sometimes shift in a similar manner. 123 WEST AND N. W. COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. Sound and Peel Harbour. COAST, BAYS, AND DANGERS. GEOGRAPHE BAY lies on the East side of Cape Natiiraliste, thi.s cape being in ceographe Jat. 33° 28' S., Ion. 114° 55' E. ; the bay is 4 or 41 leagues wide, and 3 leagues in depth, "'^• open to northerly winds, but sheltered from W.S.W. and southerly winds, having mo- derate soundings of 18, 12, and 10 fathoms, to 5 and 4^ fathoms near the shore at the bottom of the bay. About 4^ or 5 leagues N. | E. from Cape Naturaliste, there lies a shoal called Naturaliste Shoal. In the S.AV. angle of Geographe Bay, small vessels may anchor with the N.W. extreme point bearing N.N.W., or N. by W., and be shel- tered from the W.N.W., or even N.W. winds. The coast from the eastern side of Geographe Bay, extends nearly N. by W. to Gar- den Island near Swan River, excepting Cape Bouvard in lat. 32° 34' S., Ion. 115° 23' CapcBouvard E., which projects a little from the coast line to seaward ; and from hence to Rottenest Island, there are various banks and islets near the coast. Between Cape Bouvard and Cape Peron is the anchorage of WARNBRO SOUND, wambro surveyed by Lieut. Roe, R.N., in 1839. It has from 5 to 11 fathoms water, and on the North side is a small harbour, called Peel Harbour, with from 4 to fathoms water. The sound is protected to seaward by reefs and banks, through which is the entrance channel to the southward of a rock above water, called Passage Rock, which is in lat. 32° 18' S. ROTTENEST ISLAND, in lat. 32° 2'S., Ion. 115° 25' E. (the centre), is mode- Rcen rately elevated, nearly 3 leagues in length East and West, and 4 miles in breadth from ^'''^"''' North to South, being about 4 leagues distant from the entrance of Swan River, and bearing from it about W.N.W. A reef nearly surrounds the island, and from its south- eastern side extends about 2^ leagues to the S.E., nearly joining Carnac Island, at the entrance of Cockburn Sound ; there is, however, good temporary anchorage in the usual westerly winds on its N.E. side in 10 fathoms. COCKBURN SOUND, between Garden Island and the main land, may be con- cockhur sidered as the outer harbour of Swan River, from the entrance of which it is distant ^""'^■ about 6 miles farther South. Garden island is a long narrow island, having its length parallel with the coast, and forming with Cape Peron the deep bight of the sound. Off its North end are numerous islets, rocks, and banks, affording a further protection to the anchorage. The principal islet is called Carnac, between which and the 'North point (Beacon Head) of Garden Island is the main entrance to the sound. Cockburn Sound is the best anchorage on this coast; the depth in it varies from 12 to 6 or 7 fathoms, clear ground, except on the banks, which are easily perceived ; near the island side of the sound, the only points open to the sea, or on which the land is not seen, are from North to N.E., but the main land fronts that direction, and a treble barrier of shoal water banks, on the nearest of which there are only 2 and I7V fatiioms water, breaks off any sea that might arise in that extent. This sound is considered to be perfectly secure, capable of sheltering any number of vessels of the largest size. Sulphur R 2 124 WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA. Bay, close under the East side of Garden Island, has 7 fathoms water close to its beacii, and the shore of tlie mainland has smooth and deep water fronting it, except on the shoal banks ; this is considered the best anchorage in winter. Although this place affords safe anchorage, it may nevertheless be thought inconvenient for trading ships having cargoes to deliver in Swan River, the distance to which being 6 or 7 miles ; but they need not anchor in Cockburn Sound, except in the season when N.VV. gales may be expected ; at other times Gage Road will be both safe and convenient. Dircciions for The foUowiug directious have been given by the master of H.M.S. Success, for Sound"™ sailing into Cockburn Sound. Coming from seaward, bring the North point of Garden, or Buache Island, to bear E. by N. and keep it so, until about 2 miles from it, then steer North, until the S.E. point of Carnac Island bears E.N.E. Steering then E.N.E. for the latter, be careful, on bringing the North white sandy point of Garden Island, to bear S. by E. ^ E., to steer S.E. till a round rock opens to the eastward of Carnac, (as this will take you clear of a detached rock off Garden Island ;) steer then S.S.E. which will carry you up to Success Bay in Cockburn Sound, clear of Carnac Ledge, and over the tail of the Spit at the first bay of Garden Island, having 7, 6, 5, and 4 fathoms. In sounding between Rottenest Island and the rocks and reefs to the eastward of it, a good channel was found, with from 9 to 5 fathoms water, with the north western- most rock bearing S.E. by E. Variation of the compass 5° 20' W. High water at 9 hours on full and change of moon. Rise of tide 2^ feet. The entrance of Swan River is easily distinguished by its low black rocky heads, or cliffs on the white sandy beach, and in steering from Rottenest Island or its adjoining Reefs towards the entrance of the river, do not go farther to the southward than to bring these cliffs to bear E.N.E., without having a boat a-head to sound ; as the water shoals to 3 fathoms, and then to 2 fathoms farther to the southward. To sail from Gage Road off Swan River, to Success Bay or Harbour, steer over to the S.W. towards a large round rock, and do not bring this rock to the westward of S.W. until the North point of Garden Island (which is a white sandy point) comes just on, or open with the rock on the S.E. point of Carnac : this mark will lead you close to a cluster of small rocks (just above water, about a j mile to the eastward of the large round rock), in 17 or 18 feet water at high tide. Alireast of these rocks the channel is very narrow, the shoalest and most contracted parts being about ^ mile, when the round rocks and the small rocks are in one bearing West. After passing to the southward of the small rocks, the channel quickly widens, and the water deepens to 4 fathoms. Do not come nearer to Carnac than f of a mile, as the water is shoal around. The spit which partly surrounds this anchorage, commences about 2 miles to the southward of Swan River, and extends I'rom the main towards the small rocks, off the round rock mentioned above, where it terminates in a point, with the small rocks and round rock in one, bearing West by compass ; it then trends to the S.E. about a mile, then to southward, S.W. and westward, finally uniting to the rocks off the S.E. end of Carnac. Upon this spit the usual depth of water is 2^ fathoms, and in some places 3 fathoms. Cockburn Sound and the entrance of Swan River have been surveyed by Lieut. Roe, R.N., the surveyor-general, and the several channels are now indicated by buoys and beacons. Lieut. Roes directions are as follows : On approaching the land keep the Haycock on Garden Island about N.E. ^ N. till within li miles of it, when you will have passed over the outer 5 fathoms bank and will be in 9 to 11 fathoms water. Then steer to the northward till the Challenger Buoy comes in one with the Stags and Spit beacons. A Pilot will then come on board, but you may safely run into Cockburn Sound by the Chart, keeping the Chal- lenger and Stags on one hand, and the Mid-Beacon and Flat Ledge on the other. The WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 125 Snapper Buoy and Pointer Beacon shew the southern passage into Owen anchorage or into Gage Road by passing the Mewstone, which may be done on either side.* SWAN RIVER, (Arthur Head), is in lat. 32° 5' S., Ion. 115° 34' £. Gage Road, s>van uiv.r fronting the mouth of Swan River, affords anchorage for ships of any size, in depth ""oad!"''' from 12 to 4 fathoms, the bottom being good, and it is sheltered by the main-laud, islands or banks, all round, except from N.N.W. to \V. JN.W. ; the N. \V. gales in winter render it unsafe at that season, several ships having been driven from their anchors and wrecked. A vessel may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, within a cables length of the river's mouth, or from the beach of Gage Bay, and have an easy communi- cation with the shore. To the southward of Arthur Head, there is a bay well sheltered, but as the depth of water is not more than 2 fathoms, it is only lit for small vessels. MELV^ILLE WATER is a capacious basin within the heads which lead to Swan Mei»iiic water. River, the entrance to which, formed between these heads, is over a bar having only 6 feet on it at low water, consequently only navigable by boats. About a mile inside the heads the water deepens, and then commences a succession of natural cliffs or wharfs, with 4, 5, or 6 fathoms close to them ; and for several miles upwards, there are from 5 to 8 fathoms over a large expanse of water, which would be one of the best harbours in the world if it had a suitable entrance, and Captain Stirling is of opinion that such might be made without much difficulty at a moderate expense. The water in this magnificent basin is salt, and it continues so for a considerable distance up Swan River, but in ascending farther, the water became quite fresh, with a fine country adjacent, diversified with hills and forest trees; the soil generally fertile, well adapted for cultivation, with plenty of fresh water, and small lakes of fresh water were dis- covered in several places among the hills. Canning River, extending from Melville Water in an easterly direction, was ascended about 20 miles by Captain Stirling, and appeared similar to Swan River, excepting that it had greater depths of water, there being 4, 5, and 6 fathoms for several miles above its entrance ; farther up, both it and Swan River are only navigable by boats. The bank of soundings opposite to this part of the coast extends nearly 30 leagues BankofSound- from the land, with usually a regular decrease of depth as the coast is approached. '"^'" Land and sea breezes alternate the shore in summer ; and this place being situated close to the southern limit of the southerly trade wind, presents admirable facilities for vessels passing to and from it in every direction. HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS, between lat. 28° and 29° S. (from Van Keulen's '^^"s"'' account) are the same on which the ship Batavia in 1629, and the ship Zeewyk in 1727, were lost. The crew of the last ship, found them to consist of ten or twelve Sandy Islands, united to one another by reefs, supposed to be 32 or 36 miles from the main-land, which was not seen from the shoals : between these shoals and the coast, the sea is clear with deep water. On the easternmost Island, lying W miles distant from them to the S.E. they found some pieces of wreck, and a little underwood ; but no fresh water was got in the pits which they dug, though Peisart iu 1(529, found good water on one of the islands, in two small holes : the said crew built out of the wreck a vessel, wherewith they arrived at Batavia. Captain Daniel, in the London, saw the shoals in June 1681. "With the wind S.W. by W., steering by compass N.E. by E., at 10 a.m. the water was discoloured: * In the Nautical Magazine, for 1835, page 134, a particular description is given of all the buoys, beacons, and marks, for the channels of Cockburn Sound. 126 WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA. Sliaik Bay and circumjacent coast. Cloates Island. Island mis- taken for it. a man at the fore-top, saw a breach rise a-head of us ; we put our helm hard a star- board, and stood away N.W. by W. and weathered the N.W. end of it about ^ a mile : at that distance the depth was 35 fathoms white corally ground, with some red mixed ; next depth (about two hours after we tacked) was about 40 fathoms, the same ground ; and at 9 p.m. having run off by log on a N.W. by W. course, about 24 miles, had no ground at 05 fathoms. "The breach, which we first saw, happened to be the northernmost of all, there being several; and by our computation are near 20 miles in length. Within the breaches, several small white sandy islands were seen, with some bushes on them ; a heavy sea broke against the South part of these shoals. When close to them, the main- land was not seen." The western limit of these dangerous shoals, is Ion. 113° 20' E., and the south-easternmost patch, called Turtle Dove, is in lat. 29° 10' S., Ion. 113° 57' E. SHARK BAY, of Dampier, on the East side of Dirk Hartog Island and Road, is a spacious and safe harbour, its centre in lat. 25° S. There are two channels leading to this bay; one in lat. 25° 25' S., between Dirk Hartog Islands and Barren Island, called Naturaliste Channel by the French, who surveyed this coast; the other to the northward of Barren Island, called Geographe Channel, extending from lat. 24° 25' S., to 24° 42' S., between Cape Cuvier, a high red sloping point on the main, and the North end of Barren Island, which island extends North and South along the N.W. part of the Bay, and secures it to the S. W. and westward. The North point of Barren Island is in lat. 24° 43' S., Ion. 113° 7' E. ; and the North point of Dirk Hartog Island, in lat. 25° 27' S., Ion. 112° 55' E., by the French survey, and there are soundings 9 or 10 leagues to the westward of them. The land around Shark Bay, is sandy, barren, destitute of inhabitants, fresh water,* or other necessaries ; but the approach to this part of the coast is considered to be safe. To the southward of Dirk Hartog Island, in lat. 27° S., it should not be approached by any ship bound to the northward, as Houtman's Abrolhos must be avoided. CLOATES ISLAND (doubtful) is said to have been seen in 1719, by Capt. Nash, in the Imperial ship. House of Austria, who gave it this name. The day before, and several days after, mucii sea-weed and some small birds like lapwings, both in size and flight, were observed. He made this island in lat. 22° S., and from it he made 7° 26' west- ing to Java Head. This island is said also to have been seen in 1743, by the Haesling- field; and according to the description of both ships, it is about 8 or 10 leagues in extent, N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., of moderate height, level, with a gradual slope at both ends, and high breakers projecting about 3 miles from them. The Haeslingfield made it in lat. 22° 7' S. ; they steered from it nearly North, for seven days, made the land of Java in lat. 8° 30' S., and in three days more, made Java Head 7° 12' W. from Cloates Island. The longitude made by these two ships from this island to Java Head, agrees within 14 miles of each other; and allowing Java Head in Ion. 105° ll'E., Cloates Island will be in 112° 30' E., by mean of the longitude made by both ships, or 1° 46' W. from the coast of New Holland ; this coast in lat. 22° S., being in about Ion. 114° 16' E. Cloates Island, has also been supposed to lie very near the coast of New Holland. The Belvedere's Journal states, January 12th, 1796, at ^ past 8 a.m., steering E. ^ S., saw Cloates Island on the lee bow, bearing E. by N. 5 or 6 miles, hauled up N.N. W. ; at 9 the Island E. i S., to S. E., breakers oft' each end from East to S. E. by E., in 25 * Such parts of the West Coast as the Dutch examined, were found destitute of fresh water. N. W. COAST OF AUSTRALIA — DANGERS. 127 fathoms. Steered N. i W. 3 miles to 10 a.m., a bluff point of land seen from the mast-head S. E. ^ E.~ distant 8 or 9 leagues in 25 fothoms. Steered N. E. by N. 4 miles, N. E. 6 miles to noon : the observed lat. 21° 10' S., the body of Cloates Island seen half-way up the mizen shrouds bearing S. by W,, distant 4 or 5 leagues, in 38 fathoms. Wind at N. W. and westward. From noon, steered N. E. J)| miles, saw the coast of New Holland from the deck, hauled on a wind N. N. W., being in 17 fathoms red coarse sand at ^ past 1 p.m., January 13th. At 2 p.m., the southern extreme, a bluff point, with high breakers, extending out to a great distance, S. 78° E., the northern extreme N. 50° E., the nearest land N. 70° E. distant 5 leagues. This was evidently not Cloates Island seen in the Belvedere, but some of the low islands in the bight to the eastward of the N. W. Cape of New Holland, as the island and land she saw are to the northward of the Cape. Cloates Island has probably no real existence, some of the islands near the coast of New Holland having been mistaken for it, when ships were navigated by dead reckoning. TRYAL ROCKS, like Cloates Island, are of doubtful existence, and named from rryai Rocks, the English ship Tryal, said to have been lost upon them in 1022. A Dutch sloop sent from Batavia to explore them, in consequence of one of their ships* having seen them in 1718, marks in a plan, the extent of the whole range East and West about 40 miles, and about 15 miles broad in lat. 19° 30' S., 80 leagues from the coast of New Holland. They are placed in different latitudes; in some of the old charts, from 19° 45' S., to 21° S., and the meridian of Java Head ; also from 1° to 2°, both to the eastward and westward of that meridian. In July 1777, Captain Matthias Foss, of the Dutch ship Fredensberg Castle, saw the Tryal Rocks, and made them by good observation, when they bore East distant 12 miles at noon, in lat. 20° 40' S., meridian distance 23° 45' E. from St. Paul, but by the run afterwards, S. ^ W., 840 miles from Java Head. The Danish account says, " these rocks lie N. W. and S. E. and extend in length 24 miles ; the centre of them appears very broad, and not higlier out of the water than a small vessel's hull ; the extremes are clusters of small broken rocks, now and then appearing as the sea retires, and are about 4 miles from each extreme of the main rock." Captain Wilson searched for the Tryal Rocks, as placed from the Danish account, and remarks, that neither these nor the island laid down in Thornton's chart exist near lat. 20° 50' S., between Ion. 104° 41' and 105° 44' E. He also observes, that the Lascelles, in 1789, passed lat. 20° 50' S., in Ion. 104° 12' E. by chronometer; and that he passed the same latitude in the Carnatic in 1780, in Ion. 103° 34' E. by chro- nometer ; then concludes with this useful remark : — "If rocks of the Dane's description were situated within these limits, i. e. betwixt 103° 34' E. and 105° 44' E., it is barely possible, that the Lascelles, the Carnatic, and the Vansittart could have passed without seeing them ; and I have not a doubt, if the tracts of other direct ships, with chronometers on board, were examined, even these limits would be extended to the westward, in which no such island, or rocks can lie. Whoever, therefore, would look for the Tryal Rocks, as reported by the Dane, will do it with much greater probability of finding them to the eastward of 105° 44' E., than to the westward of that limit." * Van Keulen says, they were seen in the ship Vaderland Getrouw, found to lie in 201" §._ anj tji^t she had 57 to 65 fathoms fine soft sand, when they bore E.N.E. 8 miles. The Jane frigate's journal, has the following remark : — June 27th, 1705, according to custom, hove to, on account of the Tryal Rocks (if such rocks exist), for although they are reported to extend 20 leagues in length, I was informed by the Commodore of the Dutch ships, with whom I went home last voyage, that he never heard of tliese rocks having been seen. If they exist, they must lie much farther East than in the route towards Java Head, or they must have become more familiar to us. 128 N. W, COAST OF AUSTRALIA — DANGERS. As the Danish account places the Tryal Rocks about 44 miles to the westward of Java Head, or in about Ion. 104|° E., and the Dutch account within 80 leagues of the coast of New Holland, upward of 10° more easterly, it may be inferred, that it cannot be one and the same, but two different siioals seen by them ; the latitude differing also more than one degree, strengthens this opinion ; there is reason to think that neither the Tryal Rocks, nor Cloates Island, have any real existence, notwithstanding the foregoing remarks. In 1770, the Harcourt, Captain INathaniel Paul, is said to have sounded in 40 fathoms stiff clay, on a bank which they reckon in lat. 21° 0' S., and 28"^ 30' E., from St. Paul, or about Ion. 106^ 23' E. Captain L. Wilson, in the Vansittart, July 5th, 1789, thought soundings of 75 fathoms stiff mud were got, and broke the deep sea line, in lat. 20° 54' S., Ion. 105° 25^' E., which Captain Wilson called Harcourt Bank ; but as no soil came up on the arming of the lead, the (quarter-master was probably deceived. MOFFAT SHOAL (doubtful), seen at 1 p. m., November 26th, 1818, by the ship of this name, at which time she passed over the tail of an apparent shoal, the water being very white, but no breakers, and there may be 8 or 10 fathoms over the white coral, or, perhaps, sandy bottom. After taking in sail and heaving to, got no ground at 100 fathoms, the shoal then seen from the mizen-top, bearing from S. VV. i W. to N. by W. i W. ; made it in lat. 21° 37' S., Ion. 112° 2oi' E. by mean of chronometers and lunar observations, differing only 9 miles. Clark Reef. CLARK REEF is in lat. 20° 18' S., and bears N. W. by compass, distant about 9 or 10 miles from Rosemary Island,* off the coast of New Holland, by the account of Captain Clark who discovered it, and found from 7 to 9 fathoms water close to the rocks. Captain Piddington saw this reef in 1818, and made it in lat. 20° 17' S. Moffat Shoal (doubtful). Greyhound Shoal. GREYHOUND SHOAL, discovered by the brig of this name, bound from Cal- cutta to Batavia and Port Jackson, was seen 15th January 1818, at noon, while obser- ving ; the breakers bearing from S. E. f E. to E. by S. ^ S. distant about 6 miles, and extending about N. E. and S. W. ; an opening was perceived in the middle of the shoal, no part of which appeared above water, but the breakers were high. Our noon observation made the body of the shoal in lat. 19° 58' S., Ion. 1 14° 40J' E. by lunars. siZf''"'' IMPERIEUSE SHOAL, discovered by Captain Rowley, December 30th, 1800, in H. M.S. Imperieuse. At day-break, saw a shoal extending about 3 miles from N. E. to S. W. ; on the S. VV. end shoal water with high breakers ; the N. E. part a low sand, in some places covered with water, and several small rocks appearing above the surface. As far as could be seen from the main-top, when the shoal bore from N. by E. ^ E. to W. N. W. ^ W. distant 2\ miles, the water appeared discoloured, and in many parts high breakers were observed. Noon observations made it in lat. 17° 35' S., Ion. 118° 27' E. by account ; no ground with 90 fathoms line. By observations of O < eight days afterwards, the ship was about 10 miles to the westward of account. Captain King, in his survey of the N. W. coast of New Holland, marks three shoals Rowley Shoals, under the name of ROWLEY SHOALS ; the first. Mermaid Shoal, in lat. 17° 16'S., * Dampier, who named Rosemary Island, placed it in lat. 20° 21' S. (the Belvidere's noon observations will make the island seen by her in 21° 23' S.). Dampier says it is 6 leagues long, and 1 in breadth, with several islets about it. No water could be found there. N. W. COAST OF AUSTRALIA — DANGERS. J29 Ion. 119° 36' E. ; the second, Minstrel :uul Clarke Shoals, in lat. 17° 20' S., Ion. 119° 14' E. ; and tlie thiid, Imperieuse Shoal, in lat. 17° 3.V S., Ion. 1 18° .03' E. Tliere is also a coral reef in lat. 16° 30' S., and Ion. 119° 36' E., on uhicli tiie ship Lively is said to have been lost. One of these shoals seems to have been seen by the ship Good Hope, from Banda, bound to Batavia, 14lh February, 1813; when under a close-reefed main top-sail and foresail, with a N.W. wnul and heavy sea, head to the S.W., saw, at ^ past 11 p.m., breakers a-head and on the lee-bow, instantly wore, and set more sail. At 4 a.m. the weather more moderate, wore, and at 8 saw the breakers from the mast-head, bearing West. At 9| A.M. tacked within Ik miles of the shoal, no ground 150 fathoms, it then bearing from N.JN.W. to S.W. ^ S., the North eastern extreme being distinctly seen, but breakers were visible to the S.VV. as far as the eye could reach from tlie mast-head. Several spots of dry sand appeared, and on the North end of the shoal were black rocks, on which the sea broke very high. At noon, observed in lat. 17° 47,',' S., the North extreme of the shoal bearing West about 5 miles, and we made that jiart of it in Ion. 119° 18' E. by chronometer, and 119° 21' E. by an observation of the moon and Aldebaran taken 8J hours afterwards. The chronometer was found to be very correct, when we made Christmas Island, 7th of March following. MINSTREL SHOAL,* is said by Captain Clark, (who discovered the reef des- Minstrel cribed above under this name) to bear N. 49^° E. from the North part of Rosemary ^''°^'- Island, distant about 2.30 miles ; when it bore East 3 or 4 miles, he made the Nortii part of the shoal in lat. 17° 28' S., Ion. 1 19° 2' E., by observations of sun and moon. This shoal was seen by the Minstrel, Captain Barnes, at 4 p.m., 7th May, 1820, and at 5j P.M. she tacked within 1^ miles of the N.E. part of the shoal, had no ground 60 fathoms ; a very white sand bank, about 4 or 5 feet above water, was observed near the northernmost end of the shoal, with several black rocks to the northward and eastward of the sand bank, and the breakers from thence extended to the S.S.W. as far as visible from the mast-head. The N.E. point of the shoal, by noon observation, brought up to 5 p.m. is in lat. 17° 14' S., Ion. 118° 57' E. ; or .5° 28' E. by chronometer, measured from the coast of New Holland, in lat. 23° 10' S. ; and by lunar observation, taken yesterday, made the same part of the shoal in Ion. 118° 59' E. This must cer- tainly be the shoal mentioned by Captain Clark, but these observations taken in the Minstrel, make its northern extremity 14 miles more northerly than that navigator's position of the same part of tlie shoal. DAMPIER SHOAL, according to the account given in the voyage of this cele- Dampier brated navigator, lies S. by W. from the eastern part of Timor, in lat. 1.3° 50' S. He describes it to be a small sandy bar, that shews itself on the surface of the water, sur- rounded with rocks, which appear 10 feet above water: it is of triangular form, and each side about 1^ leagues long; no ground at ^ a league distant from it. This shoal seems to be in about Ion. 122° 36' E., by Dampier's account, in a run of two days from the S.W. end of Timor. The Cartier, in 1800, struck on a shoal, March 6th, at midnight, ttppareiitlij Dam- pier Shoal. It was tiien blowing strong from the westward, the ship under double- reefed top-sails, " Hove all aback, and got off. While on the rock, which was 8 or 10 minutes, had 5 fathoms rocks over the stern." * Probably one of those called Rowley Shoals, by Captain King. S Shoal. 130 N, W. COAST OF AUSTRALIA— DANGERS, "This shoal, I am led to believe," says Captain Nash, "is of great extent, as we were about 20 minutes in much smoother water, which I think was occasioned by rocks or breakers to windward (as we had a very heavy sea before and after), although not any in sight of us." Another account adds, "That the ship, from being in a heavy sea, suddenly came in smooth water, and ran 2^ miles before striking. Although nothing was seen above water, it is very probable there are rocks, or a sand of considerable extent, on account of the sea being so smooth." " These rocks, we suppose, are those seen by Dampier in 1688 ; by observation from the preceding noon they are in about lat. 13° 58' S., Ion. 122° 20f' E. by chronometer brought on from last sights." One of the journals states, that when she struck, the Ion. was 122° 3' E. ; another account says, she was then in lat. 13° 57' S., Ion. 121° 55' E. by chronometer. Scott Reef. SCOTT REEF is probably that seen by the ship Cartier, and by Dampier: Cap- tain P. Heywood, in H.M.S. Vulcan, gives the following description of a reef, seen by him Feb. 22d, 1801. "At noon, by account, in lat. 13° 46' S., Ion. 122° 19' E. by chronometers, or 97 miles due East, from the position assigned to Dampier Rocks in Robertson's chart, when the man at the mast-head discovered a long range of breakers at 1 P.M. This reef on all parts is even with the water's edge, and the breakers only visible. The N.W. end is in lat. 13° 52^' S., Ion. 121° 59' E. From thence it extends about S. 62° E., 18 or 19 miles to the N.E. point, in lat. 14° 1' S., Ion. 122° 16' E. ; from each of these points it takes a sharp turn to the southward, but the extent of either tail in that direction, I know not, as they both broke in the mast-head horizon. "This day, unfortunately, was gloomy, which deprived me of a sight of the sun; but the course was free, and the distance run from the preceding noon not great, the error in the log account, I think, could not have been much. The nearest land to this dangerous reef, is Red Island, on the coast of New Holland, from which it bears N. 62° W., distant 143 miles." Captain Heywood observes, that as this Reef differs essentially in situation from that assigned to Dampier Rocks in the charts, of much greater magnitude, and not answering the description given by Dampier, he cannot say if it is the same, but thinks it should be considered as another danger, that ships may be on their guard against both. He therefore named it Scott Reef, after the man at the mast-head, who first saw it. There seems little reason to doubt that this and the shoal on which the Car- tier struck in the night, are the same; the positions agreeing so nearly, although com- puted from the observations of the preceding days, and the Cartier having experienced very smooth water for a considerable time, give cause to think they are one and the same shoal. It also agrees nearly with the position Dampier assigned to the rocks seen by him, although his description of rocks 10 feet above water, and the extent of the shoal, dif- fers from Captain Heywood's remarks; but this difference might arise from being viewed at high and low water, as the tides rise considerably hereabout. There are two dangers mentioned by Capt. Wickham, as having been seen by Mr. Browse, of the Lynher ; the one, a reef in lat. 15° 26^' S., Ion. 121° 55' E., the other an island, in lat. 14° 4' S., Ion. 123° 30' E. The latter was seen the second night after leaving Timor, with a good chronometer. It is about 1 mile in extent, and very low, so much so as not to have been discovered till within two cables' lengths, when soundings were struck in 10 fathoms ; 1 mile to the westward no bottom at 40 fathoms. N. W. COAST OF AUSTRALIA — DANGERS. 131 SAHUL BANK and other Banks or Shoals between Timor and the coast of New s«hui B»nk. Holland are imperfectly known. The Sahul Bank is projected on the charts as dan- gerous and rocky, of great extent, the West end of it commencing nearly due East from the South part of Rotto, and about 16 or 17 leagues from the South point of Tiuior ; from thence stretching to the eastward upwards of 2° betwixt lat. 10° 40' and 1J°30'S. There is reason to think this bank is not so extensive as here mentioned, but many other coral banks, some of which are very dangerous, lie to the southward of it at a great other banks, distance; and one of these was seen in the Cartier, March 5th, 1800, the day before she struck on another shoal, which has been already described. The Cartier left Amboina, February 12th, 1800, with a cargo for England ; she had westerly winds, and passed the end of Timor 22d : strong westerly winds prevailed when to the southward of this island. " March r)th, at 5 p.m. saw a DRY SAND BANK, bearing S. 40° W., about 4 miles; a shoal joins it to the northward, and the danger appears to be about 4 miles in circumference. We were going so fast througli the water, could not heave the lead. From noon observation, it lies in about lat. 12° 2^/ S., and by a good chronometer, in Ion. 123° 56' E., allowing Amboina to be in 128° 14' E." ASHMORE SHOAL, discovered by Capt. Ashmore, in the Hibernia, 11th June, Ashmore 181 1, is very dangerous and extensive y — At 4 a.m. being calm, they heard the noise of ^'""''' breakers, and at day-light were about a mile from the nearest part, in a deep biglit at the N.E. end of the shoal, and nearly embayed. A barrier of black rocks, 6 or 8 feet above water, was observed, to the westward of which were several sand banks, with the appearance of some vegetation on the highest of them, and the surf broke violently ou the S.E. point of the shoal, which seemed to extend from the N.E. point about W. ^ N. 6 or 7 miles, but its extent to the S. Westward could not be discerned for the sand banks and haze at the horizon. The water was not discoloured near the shoal; many birds rose from it in the morning, and flew towards it in the evening. The N.E. end of the shoal, by noon observation, made in lat. 12° 11' S., Ion. 122° 58j' E. by chron. allowing the South Head of Port Jackson in 151° 25' 25" E., and we made 18° 57^' West from Booby Island to the Shoal by chron. On the 19th June, saw Christmas Island, and made it in Ion. 105° 37|-' E. by chron., being then 43 days from Port Jackson. HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Capt. Ashmore, May 8th, 1810, at 8 a.m. from the Hibemia mast-head, two small sand banks, distant 5 or 6 miles to the S.W., situated upon a ^'"'*' shoal, the breakers on which appeared to extend nearly East and West about 4 miles. The two sand banks lie near the centre of the shoal, elevated about 10 feet above water, and each appeared to be in extent about a cable's length. — At i) a.m. the Shoal bore from S.S.E. to S.W. by S., distant about 3 miles, and some rocks were visible above water upon its western extreme. This shoal was found to be in lat. 11° 56' S., Ion. 123° 23' E., deduced from Port Jackson by chronometer, in a run of 34 days through Torres Strait. Captain P. Heywood passed over many of the banks between New Holland and Southern route Timor. January 1st, 1801, in H.M. bomb vessel, Vulcan, with three transports, under ^'°"' ^"'^"'"'■ convoy, he left Amboina, and was ordered to proceed to Madras by the southern route ; January 8th, owing to the indifferent sailing of the ships, and the wind veering from W.N.W. to W.S.W., he was obliged to pass to the eastward of Wetter, and next morn- ing he passed the East end of Timor. s 2 ■ 132 N, W, COAST OF AUSTRALIA — DA^fGERS. Red Island. Soundings on the Sahul Bank. Other banks. Having a strong monsoon to the southward of this island, veering between W.N.VV. and W.S.VV., with a heavy sea, and gaining no ground, he stretched to the southward, and on the 23d, made the coast of New Holland in lat. 15° 9' S. This part of the coast was low, the aspect barren and sandy. An island of the colour of red ochre, named lied Island, about 5 or (J miles from the main, was very conspicuously seen in contrast with the low land behind it, and lies in lat. 15° 9' S.,lon. 124° 22' E.* On this part of the coast the soundings were regular, the bottom green ooze; at 5 leagues distance, to the N. W. of the island, 35 fathoms, deepening gradually to 60 and 70 fathoms, as far to the northward as lat. 13° 40' S. From Red Island, with strong westerly winds, the Vulcan stood back to the northward, and at noon, Jan. 28th, saw the water discoloured a-head ; immediately after, got ground 30 fathoms water on the edge of Sahul Bank; shoaled quick, and tacked in 19 fathoms ; when about, had only 12 fathoms. The water was clear, and the bottom appeared white sand, with coral patches. The part where 12 fathoms was got on the southern edge of the bank, is in lat. 11° 34' 50" S., Ion. 124° 14' E. From this position. Captain Heywood remarks, that the western extremity of the shoal appeared to extend some miles to the W.N.W., as the water was much discoloured in that direction. To the eastward, the shoal water extended beyond their mast-head horizon, although, on the 20th January, when they tacked in lat. 11° 35' S., Ion. 125° E. no ground was obtained at 59 fathoms, nor any appearance of shoal water from the mast-head. From the edge of the Sahul Bank they stood to the southward, with strong west- erly winds and squally weather; on the 31st, at 9 a.m. shoaled suddenly from no ground to 15 fathoms, wore instantly, and saw the coral rocks and sand under the ship, carrying 12, 10, and 9 fathoms; when about, deepened as quick to 20, 60, and 70 fathoms. This shoal is in lat. 13° 25' S., Ion. 124° 12' E., and on the preceding day 30 fathoms was got only 2 miles farther southward. February 2d, pa.st 1 v.u. shoaled again suddenly from 65 into 12 fathoms, and had only 7 fathoms when about, the bottom distinctly seen, white sand and coral rocks, this position being in lat. 12° 46' S., Ion. 124° 32' E. Being thus embarrassed between the Sahul, and these, /)e;7th, 1800 ; by which it appears, that the current runs strong to the eastward as the season advances. From the N.W. Cape the fleet steered N.E. by N. 71 miles, N.E. 12 miles, had then 55 fathoms, fine sand; steered N.E. 7 miles, then 55 fathoms, and the same course six miles to noon, kit. 20° 5' S., Ion. 115° 34' E. by chronometers, in 47 fathoms, the wind at W., December 10th. December 11th, steered North 8 miles, in 48 to 44 fathoms; N.E. by N. 8 miles. Passage from 43 fathoms, and 4A miles more on the same course, had then 23 and 28 fathoms ; soon n.w coasiof /• 1 /^rx r ^ • • I '11 I 11 Australia, l)y after, no ground at 60 fathoms, continumg the same course till noon ; observed lat. Sapy, Saiay^r, 18° 54' S., Ion. by lunar observations, 116° .30' E. From hence, had faint westerly and s"r''ai?s''To'" S.W. winds two days, then variable light breezes from N.E. to S.E. till Sandalwood China.' Island was seen on the 19th. They entered Sapy Strait 23d, watered there, passed through Salayer Straits, Dampier's Strait, and arrived 17th February, 1801, at Macao. December 7th, 1801, with a southerly wind, at 10 p.m. in the Elizabeth, the coast By 0mi.ay, of Australia, in lat. 22° S., was seen bearing East, distant 4 or 5 miles; they hauled "nd the Ciiioia off N.W., sounded, and had 55 fathoms ; passed on the East side of Sandalwood China. Island the 17th with westerly winds; on the 21st, passed the East end of Ombay ; on the 25th, between Bouro and XuUa Bessey ; on the 28th between Gagy and Geby ; and to the westward of Yowl Islands the .30th. Here the current set strong to the eastward ; among the islands it set to the southward. This ship arrived in Canton River, January the 18th, 1802, by the Bashee passage. September 23d, 1798, the Dublin, and fleet, made the coast of Australia in lat. 21° ByAiiasand S., had southerly winds till in lat. 15° S. on the 25th ; from hence easterly winds Jl^l'fijf'^','*' prevailed till the 28th, when they found themselves ofT Banditti Island. With the Mncawa"^' easterly wind, part of the fleet worked along the South side of Lombock, and arrived ^1™!' "" at Bally Town, in Alias Strait, October 4th; sailed from this Strait the 10th, with the wind S.E. ; reached Pulo Laut the 14th, and passed Cape Donda on tlie 19th. The other part of the fleet went through Bally Strait, watered there, sailed October 4ti), passed between Pondy and Madura, cleared Cape Donda the 16th, and arrived at Macao the 15th November, by the Bashee passage. September 20th, 1798, at 10 p.m. they saw tlie coast of Australia, in the Caledonia, BySapyand in lat. 22° S., bearing E. ^ N., distant 3 leagues; sounded, and had 42 fathoms. ^J^"^'^.';*'^^' They had easterly winds both to the northward and southward of Sapy Strait, passed ell ^ " through it the 28th, and were obliged to make a tack in passing to the eastward of the Postilions, at 4 leagues distance, 30th September. On the following day, they hina. 136 N. W. COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 15) Ombay and Dampier Strait to China. went over a coral bank of 13 fathoms in running for Macassar Strait; October 13th, cleared Cape Rivers ; November 2d, saw Formosa, and arrived tiie 4th at Macao. January 13th, 1796, the Belvedere left the coast of Australia in lat. 21° S., having made a low island the day before; after leaving the coast, calms and faint westerly and N.W. winds continued two days, then light and variable winds from southward till the 24th, at making the West end of Sandalwood Island. With light westerly winds, land and sea breezes, she passed along the North coast of this island, some- times within 3 miles of the shore, and had strong ripplings. The boat was sent to range along it in search of the watering place, but it could not be discovered. On the .5th February, she passed the East end of Ombay, and round the West end of Bouro 10th ; cleared Dampier Strait 20th ; saw Bottel Tobago Xima, March 17th, was de- layed here four days by westerly winds : it then came at N.E. and S.E. which car- ried her to Macao on the 25th. COAST AND ISLANDS. N.W. Cape. NORTH-WEST CAPE OF AUSTRALIA, by the observations of Capt. Torin, of the Coutts, is in lat. 21° 50' S., Ion. 114° 20' E. by chronometers and lunars nearly agreeing, on two different voyages ; but Capt. Balston, of the Princess Amelia, in 1816, made it 2° 32' West of Bally Town, in the Strait of Alias, by chronometer, which allowing to be in ion. 116° 33' E., would place the Cape in Ion. 114° 1' E., which is probably nearest the truth, for Capt. King, in his minute survey of the N.W. Coast, makes the extreme point of the N.VV. Cape of New Holland in lat. 21° 48' S., Ion. 114° 4' E. This extreme point is low, from whence the land rounds to the south-westward, increasing in height, and resembles the Bill of Portland, the land near the Cape being lower than the coast more to the southward. Here the aspect is barren, without any diversity of appearance, and the land may be discerned at 7 or 8 leagues distance. A good mark in coasting along near the N.W. Cape, Capt. Torin observes, is to keep the southern extremity of the land bearing South. About 2 miles North from the extreme point of the cape lies a shoal, having a channel with 7 and 8 fathoms water between it and the point ; and about 3 leagues N.E. of the Cape, are the Mairon Islands, extending 6 or 7 miles in a north-easterly direction. To the southward of the Cape, in lat. 21° 54' to 22° 4' S., the coast is fronted by a reef pro- jecting 1 and 1^ miles from the shore; and it seems to have been here that a Portu- guese ship was wrecked in 1816, bound from Lisbon towards Macao, The variation off the N.W. Cape of New Holland was 4° westerly in 1797. Captain King made it 2° W. in 1819. E^mouthGuif. EXMOUTH GULF, on the East side of the N.W. Cape of New Holland, is and 7 leagues wide, and extends southward to lat. 22° 30' S., having many small islands in it, with shoal soundings of 12 and 10 fathoms at the entrance, to 4, 3, and 2 fathoms at the bottom of the Gulf, the coast around it barren and sandy. Capt. Balston fell in with the coast in lat. 22° 19' S. where it is very low, with small hummocks, no soundings 5 or 6 leagues off with 90 fathoms line ; he therefore recommends to fall in with it in lat. 22° 8' to 21° 55' S. where the land is higher and of even appearance. Capt. Barnes, in the Minstrel, 29th April, 1820, made the coast well to the south- ward of the Cape, in lat. 23° 10' S., where the land was discerned at 7 leagues dis- tance, then had soundings 00 fathoms, coarse yellow sand with small pebble stones. N. W. COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 137 It is certainly prudent to make the land to the southward, between Shark Bay DirecUons. and the N.W. Cape, where soundings are got several leaj>:iie.s from the sliore, whiclj may be approached within 2^ or 3 leagues with safety : but no ship should make the land to the north-eastward of the Cape, for there are many low islands and dangerous shoals, several of which are a great distance from the coast, and very unsafe to ap- proach in the night. In approaching any part of this coast in the night, run towards it under easy sail, heaving the lead every hour, or every half-hour if the velocity of the ship is great, by which means, soundings will be obtained before getting near the shore. It has been said, the never-failing guides in approaching this coast, are great quan- tities of skuttle-bones, weeds, and drifts; also granipusses, with an amazing number of tropic birds. These guides are, however, not always observed, as Captain Torin remarks, on making the coast, December 9th, 1800; he saw a flock of birds tlie day before, which is noticed, because it was the third time he had steered in for the coast, and never saw any of the birds, skuttle-fish-bones, weed, &c. Sometimes snakes may be seen on the surface of the water, when in soundings, and birds with brown wings and white bellies, resembling the lapwing in their flight ; but the lead and a good look out are the best guides in approaching this coast, particularly if the longitude be uncertain. It may be useful to give the following brief sketch of the islands and dangers, not hitherto mentioned, which are interspersed along the N.W. Coast of New Holland to the northward and eastward of the N.W. Cape, some of them at a great distance oft' the main land, and most of them have either been discovered or explored by Capt. King, during his arduous survey of that coast. PIDDINGTON ISLANDS were discovered in the brig St. Antonio, January Piddington 15th, 1818, being at daylight unexpectedly within 2 miles of a long low sandy island, bearing S.E. f S., then in 10 fathoms sandy bottom. The westernmost or largest island, appeared to extend about 3 or 4 leagues nearly N.W. and S.E., separated by a gap in the middle into two islands, but connected by a reef: the North point is highest, forming a bluft' 50 or 60 feet above low water mark, from which a reef pro- jects about a mile. Here Capt. Piddington landed near the reef, on a steep sandy beach, having 5 fathoms water about a cable's length oft', and 7 or 8 fathoms about a mile off" shore. Round the North point of the island, on its western side, the water seemed deeper, probably about 20 fathoms within ^ mile of the beach. A few strag- gling bushes and tufts of sand grass, parched for want of moisture, were the only vegetation on the island, nor was there any appearance of fresh water, the soil being sandy and sterile. There are two other islands, one of which bears about East, nearly 4 leagues from the North part of the principal island, and the other nearly East from its soutiiern extremity ; but these are mere sand banks, considerably elevated above the sea, of a tabular form. The group altogether is semi-circular, with the chief opening to the northward, and regular soundings from 13 to 7 fathoms inside, where the brig had to work out against a N.W. wind. By marks on the shore, the perpendicular rise of tide appeared to be 20 feet on ordinary springs, and at times much more. The vessel was carried speedily away from the islands by a change of tide after 6 p.m. IGth January, but the opposite tide drifted her back in sight of the bluff" point of the westernmost island on the following morning. No other land could be discerned from these islands, which lie much in the track of T Islands. 138 NORTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA. ships steering from the N.W. Cape of Australia to the northward, and they are very dangerous to approach in the night. VVheu the iJluff Point or N.W. extreme of the westernmost island bore W.N.W. 3 miles, the observations at noon made it in lat. 21° 36' S., Ion. 114° 56' E. by chrono- meter, or 1° 37' W. from Bally Town, in the Strait of Alias, and 54 miles West from the body of the westernmost Rosemary Island. uose„,ar.v ROSEMARY, OR MONTEBELLO ISLANDS, seen by Captain Piddington, Islands. appear to consist of two principal low sandy islands, having several gentle risings, the highest part of which is the N.E. extremity of the Eastern Island, and this island extends about 10 miles in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction. The Western Island extends about 12 miles nearly N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. and they appear separated 8 or 9 miles at the nearest parts: but a reef projects nearly 3 miles from the North end of the eastern Island, and from thence extends to the North end of the western Island, admitting of no safe passage between them, as the open space seemed to be occupied by shoal water, as far as the eye could discern. To the southward of the two principal islands, lie two small islets of black aspect, resembling quoins, with a small black Table Island outside of them ; the islands seemed very sterile, formed of variegated sand hills, and probably destitute of fresh water. The tides are strong, and appear to rise about 20 feet perpendicular on the springs. By noon observation, made the N.E. point of the eastern Island in lat. 20° 26' S. North extremity of the western one in lat. 20° 35' S. by meridian altitude of the moon, and the latter made in Ion. 115° 30' E.* by observations of sun and moon, and 115° 50' E. by chronometer, or 43 miles West of Bally Town, in the Strait of Alias. The eastern island is about 10 miles East of the meridian of the western one. These Islands, called by Captain Piddington Rosemary Islands, are no doubt the group examined by Captain King, during his survey of the N.W. Coast of Australia, and named by him MONTEBELLO ISLANDS, extending from lat. 20° 21' S. to 20° 27' S., Ion. 115° 30' E.; and BARROW ISLAND, from lat. 20° 40' S. to 20° 53' S., Ion. 1 15° 22' E. to 115° 30' E. Dampier DAMPIER ARCHIPELAGO,! by Captain King's survey, extends from lat. Archipelago. ^0° 19' to 20° 30' S., lon. 116° 0' to 117° 7' E., situated near the coast, having shoal soundings amongst these islands from 7 to 3 fathoms. From hence to the N.W. Cape the coast is fronted by a broken chain of small barren sandy islands, having shoal sound- ings near most of them, and also between them and the main land. Proceeding to the north-eastward from Dampier Archipelago, the next prominent part of the coast is Cape Lev^que, the North point of Dampier Land, in lat. 16° 22' S., lon. 122° 57' E. Dampier Land is about 110 miles long from N.N.E. to S.S.W., and was supposed by some to be an island, but the survey of Captain Wickham has proved it to be part of the mainland. Off it, at the distance of 12 or 14 miles are the Lasce- pedes Isles, in lat. 16° 51' S., lon. 122° 9' E., and farther out, the Baleine Bank, in lat. 16° 46' S., lon. 121° 50' E. To the eastward of Cape Lev^que is the group of islands called the Buccaneer Archipelago, fronting a deep gulf, at the head of which Captain Wickham has recently * This is probably nearest the truth, corresponding almost with Capt. King's longitude of these islands. t One of the western islands of this Archipelago is called Rosemary Island by Capt. King, which name seems to have been applied by different navigators who have seen them to several of the islands off this part of the Australian Coast. NORTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA. 130 discovered a River, which he has named Fitz-Roy, after his former commander. Outside Buccaneer Archipelago is Adele Ishind, having- several small islets near it, all low and sandy. The centre of Adele is in lat. 15° 30' S., Ion. 123° 11' E. About 26 miles N.E. by E. from Adele Island lies Beagle Bank, an extensive sand, 4 or 5 miles in length, N.W. and S.E., having part of it dry. '^Ihe dry part is, by Capt. Wickham, in lat. 15° 19' S., Ion. 123° 35' E. ; there is uneven ground between the island and the bank. BRUNSWICK BAY, in about lat. 15° 14' S., Ion. 124° 45' E., is of considerable Brunswick extent, forms the entrance of Prince Regent River, which river seems, by Captain King's ^^^' survey, to have good depths of water for ships, with a rise of tide about 20 to 24 feet on the springs, and it is fronted by an archipelago of islands, forming several bays or har- bours, Brunswick Bay being the outermost, open to North and N.W. winds. Fresh water can begot at a rivulet on the West sideof the entrance of Prince Regent's River, at the bottom of Hanover Bay, which forms the south termination of Brunswick Bay. YORK SOUND, in lat. 14° 55' S., Ion. 125° 10' E., forms the entrance of Prince York sound. Frederick Harbour, into which flow Roe and Hunter Rivers. ADMIRALTY GULF, in lat. 14° 10' S., Ion. 126° E., forms the entrance of Port Admiralty Warrender. ^"'^• VANSITTART BAY, in lat. 14° 5' S., Ion. 126° 17' E., is separated from Adrai- vansiuan ralty Gulf by a peninsula. ^"'^ CAMBRIDGE GULF, entrance, in lat. 14° 40' S., Ion. 128° 15' E., fronts the Cambridge mouth of a river which extends S.S.W. to lat. 15° 35' S. ^""■• CAPE VAN DIEMEN, in lat. 11° 8' S., Ion. 1.30° 20' E., is the N.W. point of CapeVan Melville Island, which extends from lat. 11° 8' S., to 11° 56' S., and from Ion. ^'''"'"• 130° 20' E. to 131° 30' E., and, with Cobourg Peninsula to the eastward, forms Van Diemen Gulf, having two large openings, one between the above-mentioned island and peninsula, the other called Clarence Strait, round the West and South sides of Melville and Bathurst Islands. The Strait is studded with small isles, rocks, and reefs, having rapid currents between them : these two islands are separated by a narrow channel, called Apsley Strait, forming a good harbour, named Port Cockburn, with moderate depths of water. PORT COCKBURN was established as a British settlement,* in 1824, by Capt. Port cock- Sir Gordon Bremer, of H.M. ship Tamar, who took formal possession of the North ''"'"" coast of New Holland, comprehended between the meridians of 129° and 135° East longitude, and the following directions have been given for vessels proceeding to the new settlement. On approaching the North part of Apsley Strait, care is requisite to avoid the Mer- maid Shoal, which extends to the westward of Cape Van Diemen about 5 leagues. Piper Head, a steep and remarkable red and white cliff, a little to the southward of Cape Van Diemen, being brought to bear East, and kept on this point, will lead a * This settlement, and others attempted to be made on this part of the coast, has been relinquished, cliiefly on account of the scarcity of fresh water, and the sterility of the soil. T 2 140 PORT ESSINGTON, vessel into the narrow part of the entrance, which is about 2 miles wide ; then the lead should be kept going, with a good look out, the soundings being generally from 5 or 6, to 9 or 10 fathoms. From hence an E.S.R. course will carry her into St, Asaph Bay, which is spacious, with good anchorage, where ships may stop, until they communicate with the settlement, which is about 4 leagues farther down the strait. The flag-staffof Fort Dundas, in Port Cockburn, is in lat. 11° 25' S., Ion. 130° 24' E. The tides are strong, especially in the springs; and the flood sets to the southward. Kings Cove, another good harbour, is beyond Port Cockburn, farther into the Strait. Port Hurd. PORT HURD, in lat. 1 1° 40' S., Ion. 130° 12' E., situated on the North side of the S.W. point of Bathurst Island, is a snug harbour, with moderate depths for anchorage. Alligator Rivers, two in number, fall into the S.E. part of Van Diemen Gulf, and by Capt. King's chart, the westernmost seems a fine river, navigable for ships of large size ; and all these rivers have a great rise and fall of tide, from 19 to 22 or 24 feet on the springs, the velocity of the stream from 2 to 3 or 4 miles per hour. ton. PortEssing. PORT ESSINGTON,* is a deep inlet on the North side of Cobourg Peninsula, which projects N.N.W. about 50 miles from the main-land of Australia. The en- trance is about 7 miles wide between Point Smith on the East side, and Vashon Head, on the West, and it extends generally in a S.S.E. direction, 17 or 18 miles, with depths of water from 12 to 5 fathoms. Off the Port, about 4 miles N.W. by N. from Point Smith, and 5 miles N.E. from Vashon Head, lies the Orontes Reef, on either side of which the Port may be safely approached. The average breadth of the inlet is 5 miles, and at its southern end, three spacious harbours are formed, each extending 3 miles inwards, and about 2 miles wide, with 5 fathoms water, over a bottom of stiff mud and sand. These harbours are sheltered from every wind, and afford safe anchorage for vessels of any description, being free from hidden danger. Including the whole of these, Port Essington forms one of the finest harbours in the world, and may at all seasons be entered by night as well as by day. It is an eligible place of resort for vessels proceeding from Sydney, through Torres Strait, towards Java, Singapore, and India ; and from its contiguity to Timor, New Guinea, Celebes, and the other islands of the Indian Archipelago, it is accessible to the Malay and Bugis trading proas, as also to the junks from China, in consequence of the regular monsoons, which extend several degrees to the southward of it. The settlement of Victoria, recently established by Captain Sir Gordon Bremer, is near the head of the inlet, on its West side. The following directions for Port Essing- ton are given by Mr. J. Jackson, master of Sir Gordon's ship, the Alligator.! Ships coming from Torres Strait to Port Essington, after passing about 10 miles to the northward of Cape Wessel, should steer a course that would carry them about the same distance North of New Years Island, which is in lat. 10° 55' S., and Ion. 133° 1' E. ; from thence a course that would take them at least 12 miles to the north- ward of Cape Croker, for there is a dangerous shoal, not laid down in Capt. King's charts, with less than 10 feet water on it, about 7 miles to the northward of that Cape, on which two ships have lately struck. There is a channel between this shoal and the Cape, but it cannot be recommended to strangers as a safe passage, for its breadth and soundings are not yet known. Ihis port. Raffles Bay, about 4| leagues to the eastward, the adjacent places of shelter, the aspect and state of the proximate country, and also the shoals or dangers contiguous, are fully described in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, vol. iv. part 2nd, 1834. t See Naut.Mag. for 1840, p. 1. PORT ESSINGTO^f. 141 Having brought Cape Croker to bear South, distant at least 12 miles, a direct course should be steered for Point Smith, which is the East point of the entrance to Port Essington. This point is low and sandy, it should be rounded at the distance of 1|- miles in 9 fathoms, to avoid a reef extending in a W.N.W. direction from it, but which generally shews itself. By borrowing on Point Smith, as above directed, and avoiding the mid-channel, ships will keep clear of a very dangerous shoal, now named Orontes Reef, from the ship Orontes of London, having struck on it on the 18th of December, 1838. This ugly reef lies nearly in mid-cl»annel, and has only 5 feet on the middle of it at low water springs. The following compass bearings are taken from it. Vashon Head, S.W. by S. (J miles ; Point Smith, S.E. by S. about miles, and Turtle Point, S.S.E. After rounding Point Smith in 9 fathoms, steer S. by E. ^ E. 13 miles, and you will be abreast of Point Record, which is low and sandy, but steep to. In that track will be found 9, 8, 7, 6 and 5 fathoms at low water spring tides, muddy bottom. Working in after passing Point Smith as above directed, ships may stand in on either side to about f of a mile off shore ; remembering always that Turtle Point and Oyster Head on the West side, and Rocky Point, Table Head and Observation Cliff, on the East, are all foul. Off the latter, in a N.W. direction, lies a rock which dries at half tide, and is f of a mile off shore. This cliff may be known by its being the northern extremity of the southernmost red cliff outside Point Record. Off Table Head lies the Tamar Rock, but it is quite out of the way working in. When off Point Record the water will deepen to 10 or 12 fathoms, at less than a cable's length from the point. Great care should be taken in passing between Point Record and the opposite shore, called Spear Point, for the distance across is only 1 mile, and a very dangerous bank, with rocks at its S.E. extremity that dry at low water, stretches nearly half way across from Spear Point. To avoid this shoal, all ships should pass about a cable's length off Point Record, steering about S. by E. until ^ a mile to southward of the point. A course S.S.W. from thence, allowing for tide, will carry them to the anchorage of Victoria. In that track will be found 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms at low water spring tides, muddy bottom, the distance being about 2^ miles. Working up to the anchorage of Victoria from Point Record, being well clear of the shoal off Spear Point, stand to the eastward till Point Record bears North. By not standing farther in, a shoal will be avoided, which runs more than a mile North of Middle Head, in standing to the westward, tack on the first shoal cast. The settlement of Victoria is on the Western shore, and may be known by the pro- montory on which it stands, being the highest piece of land on that side the harbour. The northern part of this promontory is now named Minto Head, and is in lat. 11° 21' 45''' S., Ion. 132° 8' E. ; its height from the level of the sea is about 75 feet. The southern part is a remarkable red cliff, the one inside Point Record, and it can be seen more than 2 miles outside that point, and will always be a good leading mark to the anchorage off the settlement. With a leading wind, steer directly for it, when inside Point Record. The best anchorage for ships not drawing more than 16 feet water, is with Minto Head bearing W. i N., Point Record, N. by E. ^ E., and the end of the red cliff S.W. 1 S., in 3 fathoms low water on a muddy bottom. This anchorage is only half a mile off a very good pier, which has just been built, where all cargoes may be landed with convenience and safety. Ships of greater draught should anchor about a mile and a half to the N.N.E. of 142 KEELING ISLANDS. Tirf". the above berth. It is high water at full and change, at 3h. 24m. p.m., the rise and fall at spring tides, 13 feet, but the neaps are very irregular; the floods run to the southward, the ebbs to the northward. Excellent water and wood can be obtained in abundance. The soil is of first-rate quality, and the climate extremely healthy. There is now a good survey of Port Essington by Mr. Tyers of H.M.S. Alligator, who makes the pier at Victoria in lat. 11° 21' 53" S., Ion. 132° 12' 11" E. Varia- tion 1° E. (1839.) ISLANDS TO THE SOUTHWARD AND SOUTH-EASTWARD OF JAVA, THE ADJACENT STRAITS AND SOUTH COAST OF JAVA, WITH DIRECTIONS TO SAIL FROM ST. PAUL ISLAND TO THE STRAIT OF SUNDA. ISLANDS TO THE SOUTHWARD AND SOUTH-EASTWARD OF JAVA. THE KEELING OR COCOS ISLANDS are in two distinct divisions lying North and South of each other, and having a channel between them about 15 miles wide. The northern division consists of one island only, while in the southern one the islets are numerous. They were not much known previous to the visit of Captain J. C. Ross of the ship Borneo, who partially refitted his ship at the southern group in 1825, and who is now settled there. He distinguishes this group by the name of the BORNEO CORAL ISLES, restricting the name of Keeling to the northern island. The harbour first named by him Port Refuge he now calls Port Albion, and he has given the name of New Selmato the village where he has fixed his residence, with his family ; he has several followers, amongst whom are a smith and a carpenter. Captain Ross, has lately ascertained, that these isles extend from lat. 12° 4' to 12° 14' S., being 10 miles in length from North to South, and about 7 miles in breadth from East to West. Ships, homeward-bound, after clearing Sunda Strait and Java Head, are liable to sustain damage, whilst carrying sail with the S.E. trade-wind, against a heavy swell from the S.W. ; and as Port Albion is situated nearly in the direct route of these, and also of ships outward-bound to the west coast of Sumatra, or the eastern parts of the Bay of Bengal, late in the season, Captain Ross thought, that the forming of the settlement of New Selma, might be of great importance to the commerce of the British Empire, and to general navigation, by affording a harbour of refuge for ships KEELING ISLANDS. 143 to repair damage, or to refresh their people, if scorbutic, with coco-nuts and good water. Some time hence, hogs and poultry may easily be reared. His expectations have been already in some measure realized, for several ships have touched at Port Albion, to repair damage, or procure water and refreshments. New Selma has been found a healthy place; the trade-wind blows constantly with more or less strength, varying occasionally between South and E.N.E. ; the showery season is from January to July, but slight showers fall at other times. The current usually sets to north-westward, sometimes from 1 to 1^ mile per hour ; and the range of the thermometer is between 73° and 84°. A ship intending to stop at Port Albion, if uncertain of her longitude, ought to get Directions. into lat. 12° 10' S., at a reasonable distance to the eastward of the Coral Isles, and proceed to the westward on that parallel until their eastern part is seen, then steer for the north-easternmost island of the chain, called Direction Island, and round it on the western side within a ^ mile, to give a berth to the reef that extends from the island on the N.W. side of the harbour's entrance, and then be ready to anchor in from 10 to 7 or 6 fathoms water, when Direction Island bears about East or E. by JN., as the bank of soundings is very steep, there being'only 3f fathoms when this island bears about N.E. If unprovided with a chain-cable, a spot of sandy ground ought to be chosen for anchorage, as there are many rocky patches ; and afterward, the ship may be warped into the deep water basin inside of Direction Island, or piloted up the harbour by an experienced person belonging to the settlement of New Selma, where wood and water may be obtained. Capt. Fitz-Roy examined these islands in 1836, and thus describes them. " The southern group is a cluster of islets encircling a shallow lagoon, of an oval form, about 9 miles long and 6 wide. The islets are mere skeletons, little better than coral reefs on which broken coral and dust have been driven by the sea and wind, till enough has been accumulated to afford place and nourishment for thousands of cocoa palms. The outer edges of the islands are considerably higher than the inner, but nowhere exceed about 30 feet above the mean level of the sea. The Lagoon is shallow, almost filled with branching corals and coral sand. The northern group consists of one small island, about a mile in diameter ; a strip of low coral land surrounding a small lagoon, and thickly covered with coco-nut trees." They were seen by Capt. Fitz-Roy at the distance of about 16 miles, as a long but broken line of cocoa palm trees, and on a nearer approach, a heavy surf breaking upon a low white beach, which was all that could be discerned till within five miles of the larger Keeling, when the low islets which compose the group, were made out. " We picked our way," says Capt. Fitz-Roy, " into Port Refuge, the only harbour, passing cautiously between patches of coral rock clearly visible from the mast head, and anchored in a safe, though not the best berth. An Englishman (Mr. Leisk) came on board, and guided by him we moved into a small but secure cove, close to Direction Island. Soundings on the seaward side of the islands could seldom be got, but as they were obtained two miles North of the larger island, it may perhaps be inferred that the sea is not so deep between the two, as it is in other directions. Only a mile from the southern extreme of the South Keeling, no bottom could be got with more than 1,000 fathoms of line." Direction Island is in lat. 12° 5' S., Ion. 99° 55' E., var. 1° 12' W. (1836). High water at 5h. 30m. ; rise 5 feet. The northern island is in lat. 11° 50' S., Ion. 96° 51' E. Captain Ross has already cultivated with success abundance of maize, pumpkins, ]44 CHRISTMAS ISLAND — SANDALWOOD ISLAND. &c. ; poultry is thriving;, and will soon become numerous. Turtle, at present, are plentiful, and easily obtained. On Scott Island, the principal station of the new settle- ment, fresh water is good and abundant, but as this upper part of the harbour is shoal, there is an inconvenience in conveying water to ships at the outer anchorage, to remedy whicli, the construction of a wharf and receptacle for tanks has been commenced, where Captain Ross intends to keep a ready supply. And if his expectation of being frequently visited by ships in want of refreshments or repairs be realized, it is his intention to provide an assortment of anchors and cables, to meet any casual deficiency. Captain Ross being a ship-builder and mariner, and having a few mechanics under him, a vessel in distress may, under his superintendence, be assisted, or hove down, and receive any repairs which are not of great magnitude. Christmas CHRISTMAS ISLAND, about 3 leagues in length each way, of square form, may ''"'"''■ be seen 12 leagues off in clear weather, it abounds with trees, many of which are said to be coco-nut and limes. Captain G. Richardson, in the Pigot, endeavoured to find anchorage at this island in 1771 ; two boats were sent to examine it, but they could find no place where a ship might anchor, during a search of two days, sounding round the island. All round, it was found steep to, with 95 fathoms within a cable's length of the shore ; and the only accessible part they discovered was at the N.W. part of the island, at a small Avhite beach, resembling sand, but formed of white stones and coral, where they landed, and got a number of land-crabs and boobies. Some wild hogs were seen, but they could find no runs of water. The ship Earl \Yycombe, made the body of the island in lat. 10° 34' S., Ion. 105° 33' E., by good observations. Lieutenant Davidson, in the brig Waller, made it in lat. 10° 32' S., Ion. 105° 33' E. by O C Captain L. Wilson, a very correct observer, made the North end in lat. ]0°27'S., and the body in Ion. 105° 33' E., or 19^ miles E. from Java Head by chronometer to the West end of the island. The Lascelles, by chronometer, made it also in Ion. 105° 33' E. These observations nearly correspond with each other, and with those made in the Asia, by Mr. William Stone, in July, 1805. This ship, in proceeding from China to Bombay, by the eastern passage, sailed close to Christmas Island ; observations by O < agreed nearly with the chronometers, one of which was excellent. Sights taken with the island South, made its centre in Ion. 105° 34' E. The whole of the observations for latitude and longitude taken in the Asia, made Christmas Island extend from lat. 10° 27' to 10° 35' S., and from Ion. 105° 29' to 105° 39' E., which position has been corroborated by the observations of other ships since that time. Island""'"* SANDALWOOD ISLAND, called Jeendana by the natives, being the Malay name for sandal, is of middling height; near the West point of the island there is a peak, which can be seen about 20 leagues distance, and in most parts the South coast may be discernible at the distance of 9 or 10 leagues. It extends about W. by N. and E. by S.; the West end called Bluff or Breaker Point, on account of some breakers projecting from it, is in about lat. 9° 42' S., Ion. 1 19° 10' E.,* and the East end of the island in Ion. 120° 46' E., by mean of several ships' observations. The N.W. or * His Majesty's ship Satellite, in June, 1828, made Bluff Point 3 or 4 leagues more to the eastward ; and New Island she made in lat. 10° 46' S., Ion. 121° 40' E. by clironometer. ALUER, PANTAR, SOLOR, FLORES, AND SAPY STRAITS. 145 northern extremity is in about lat. 9° 15' S. ; and the southern extreme in about 10° 22' S., Ion. 120° 20' E. Near Bluff" Point there are soundings from 30 to (JO fathoms, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles from the shore ; when this point and the S.W. end of the island were in one bearing-, S. 39° E., the extremity of the breakers bore S. 32° E. and the peak S. 75° E. The West end of Sandalwood Island bears about S.S.W. from the entrance of Sapy Strait. The South point of Sandalwood Island is separated from the body of the adjacent land by a low isthmus terminating in a peninsula, almost as high, and apparently as inaccessible as the Rock of Gibraltar, with a spacious bay on each side of it, particularly that on the West side, which seems well sheltered from the S.E. monsoon, by the islands contiguous to the isthmus. No soundings are obtained at 3 or 4 miles distance from the shore. Between Sandalwood Island and SAVU, the channel is wide and safe, the body of savu. the latter being in lat. 10° 37' S., Ion. 122° 0' E. by lunars, agreeing with chrono- meters in a run of six days from Araboina, by Captain Heywood's observations, or 6° 15' W. from Amboina flag-staff". Savu may be seen 7 or 8 leagues distance from a ship's deck. BANJOAN, situated near its S.W. end, is low and woody. NEW Banjoanand ISLAND lies 13 or 14* leagues to the westward in lat. 10° 40' S., about Ion. 121° 3' *^"" '*'""''■ E. ; which is described in H.M.S. Satellite's journal, as a White Rock, about 3 quarters of a mile in extent N.E. and S.W., about 40 feet elevated above the sea at the North end, which is the highest part, where a black patch in the form of a shoe forms the summit. Reefs equal to the length of the island project from both its extremities, and in passing within a mile of the western side, no ground was got with 75 fathoms line. STRAITS OF ALUER, PANTAR, SOLOR, AND FLORES, between Om- straits between Ombaj Sapy. bay and the Island Flores or Mangerye, are not much frequented by English ships : '^"•'ay and if the Ombay passage be not preferred, they generally proceed through some of the straits to the westward of Flores, as those to the eastward are narrow, with strong tides in them. SAPY STRAIT has been much used, but ships intending to pass through Sala- sapy strait. yer Straits in the westerly monsoon should not choose it, for they may find great difficulty in weathering Salayer, if the W.N.W. winds blow strong with a lee cur- rent. This frequently happens during the strength of the westerly monsoon, which makes Allass Strait preferable in this season, it being farther to windward. Ships steering for Sapy Strait, with light, variable, or easterly winds, may fall in with the West end of Sandalwood Island ; but with westerly winds, which blow strong, with a lee current, the South coast of Sumbawa should be approached. This coast extends nearly in the parallel of lat. 9° S. upwards of 50 leagues, and is mostly high land, except near the middle of it, where there is a low point covered with trees, op- posite to the bottom of the great bay, which indents the North side of the island, and nearly cuts it in two. Sapy Strait, at the entrance from the southward, is about 4 leagues wide, formed on the East side by the Island Comodo, which is high, and to the westward by the S.E. end of Sumbawa, and the islands contiguous. The S.E. end of Sumbawa, by recent Sumbawa. observations, is in about lat. 8° 42' S., Ion. 119° 14' E., having rugged islands at a * The Satellite's journal states it to be only 7 or 8 leagues to the westward of Savu. U 146 ALLASS AND LOMBOCK STRAITS. Allass Strait. Lombock Slrait. Rapid Tide or current. considerable distance to the westward, and the Camara Islands on the East side, several of which are small islets. From the entrance of Sapy Strait, in clear weather, the peak on Sandalwood Island is visible, bearing- S. 2° W. Wood and water may be always procured at Sapy, orin the bays near it. ALLASS STRAIT is safe, much frequented, and may be easily known in com- ing- from the southward, the S.W. end of Sumbawa, which bounds it to the eastward, being high rugged land ; whereas, the S.E. end of Lombock, forming the West side of the entrance of this Strait, is composed of steep cliffs facing the sea ; the land here appearing low and level, at 5 or 6 leagues distance. The S.W. end of Sumbawa is in about lat. 9° 2' S., Ion. 1 10° 42' E., from observations I made in 17.96, by O < * and chronometers, to construct a plan of the Strait of Allass, which agree exactly with those of the Boddam and Asia, by O < and chronometers. The S.W. end of Sum- bawa extends about .3^ or 4 leagues more to the southward than the S.E. end of Lombock ; and the breadth of the channel from this point to the Sumbawa shore is about 3 leagues. A ship should borrow towards Lombock, there being soundings near the S.E. point, and along the shore of this island throughout the Strait: but the Sumbawa shore is steep to. Near the pitch of Lombock Point, there is a rock high above water, distant about half a mile from the shore ; and several rocky islets near the steep cliffs to the westward of the point, outside the entrance of the Strait. At Bally Town, and at Segar, which are both on the Lombock side of the Strait, water and other necessaries are procured. LOMBOCK STRAIT, formed by the Island Bally to the West, and that of Lom- bock to the East, is about 1.3 leagues W.N. Westward from the S.E. point of the latter island. Between the Straits of Lombock and Allass, the South coast of Lombock is in- dented by several bays or inlets, one of which lies a few leagues eastward of the S.W. point of the Island, having some rocks near its West point, 2 or .3 miles from the shore. The South entrance of Lombock Strait is easily known, the large Island Banditti lying nearly in the middle of it, which has a level contour resembling- a table, with a small knob or peak on the East end, when seen from southward : and the cliffs facing the sea, are steep like the Forelands. The common channel into the Strait is to the eastward of Banditti Island ; but the passage between this island and the Bally Shore, is sometimes used by the eastern traders.* The Cirencester, during a calm, was horsed between Banditti Island and the islands close to the West side of it, by a rapid current or tide, during the night. The channel was so narrow, they thought the ship would touch against the steep shores on either side, which appeared over the tops of the masts, although no soundings could be obtained. She was carried through this critical gut by the strong currents or tide, fortunately without damage. Ships should, however, avoid the West end of Banditti Island, and not approach the islands near it, particularly with baffling winds. In clear weather, Lombock Strait may be easily distinguished from the others, when the Peaks of Bally and Lombock are visible, at 7 or 8 leagues distance from the en- trance. Bally Peak, situated at the East end of the island of this name, is a sharp * Captain Ashmore went twice through this passage in the brig Emily, and represents it safe, with sound- ings in some places within three miles of the Bally shore, which is low near the sea, opposite to Banditti Island. BALLY STRAIT— JAVA, SOUTH COAST. 147 pointed mountain, and is in the centre of the opening- of the Strait bearing; N. by W. ; same time, Lombock Peak, bearing J\.E. ^ N., appearing- double in this view, is seen topping- over the western high land of the island. This peak is situated near the North end of Lombock, and bears N.N.W. from the entrance of AUass Strait. It may be seen near 30 leagues distance in clear weather. In entering- Lombock Strait, a ship should keep mid-channel between Banditti Island and Lombock, and afterwards nearest the eastern shore; this will prevent her from being set towards the North shore of Banditti Island, if the winds be light, and the tide of ebb make to the southward after she has entered the Strait. The tides are rapid with strong- eddies, and no bottom in the fair channel in passing through. From the best accounts, Banditti Island is in lat. if 46' S., and in about Banditti Ion. 115° 15' £. ^^'='"<*- BALLY STRAIT,* between the island of Bally and the East end of Java, is 5 or Baiiy strait. 6 leagues wide at the entrance from the southward, and 14 or 15 leagues to the West of Lombock Strait. Table Point, and the other land of Bally on the East side of the Strait, is higher than the East end of Java, which is an even piece of land, resembling Banditti Island, slojnng down at each end when viewed from the southward at or 7 leagues distance. The S.E. point of Java is in lat. 8° 46' S., Ion. 114° 33' E. by Java, s. e. mean of several ships' observations, of moon and chronometers. ^°'"'' From February to September, as southerly winds generally prevail near the South To approach coasts of the islands which form these Straits, a ship should then, at leaving the S.E. eastwa'rd'of trade, be nearly on the meridian of the Strait through which she is to pass, and steer J^va. North for it. After losing the S.E. trade, the winds may often be found variable, but generally between S.S.W. and S.E. near the islands. If, on drawing- near them, the wind incline far to the eastward, she must keep a little to windward of the entrance of the intended Strait, for the current will probably set to the westward. From November to March, strong westerly winds may frequently be expected, which produce an easterly current, setting- along the South coast of Java, and tiie islands to the eastward. She ought, therefore, in this season, to keep a little to tiie westward of the entrance of the Strait intended to be used, particularly if the wind incline to the westward as she approaches the laud. THE SOUTH COAST OF JAVA extends from the entrance of Bally Strait Souti, coast of nearly W. by N. to Wine Cooper Point, excepting in several places, where bays or "''""' inlets cause a deviation from this general direction. On most parts of this coast there are soundings near the shore, and anchorage in several bays, over a bottom generally black sand ; but they are seldom visited by strangers. VLEER MUYS (Flying Mouse) BAY, about 8 or 9 leagues eastward of Noesa vieer Muys Baron, seems to afford no shelter, the shores being rocky, the water too deep for good ^^' anchorage, and the Bay much exposed, having in it some islands. NOESA BARON, in lat. 8° 38' S., Ion. 113° 35' E.f distant from the coast 3 or 4 Noesa Baron. * A ship from Sourabaya, bound to New South Wales, said to have been captured by 16 Praws in Bally Strait, in 1834, and all her crew murdered, shows the necessity of having the guns always clear for action, to repel any attack made by these cruel wretches upon small ships proceeding through any of the Straits, or amongst the islands to the eastward of Java. t Some persons have made it about 4 leagues more westerly. u 2 148 SOUTH COAST OF JAVA. leagues, is an island about 7 or 8 miles in extent East and West, of low and level ap- pearance, presenting a front of bold cliff's on the South side, with a high surf beating against thera ; all the other isles or rocks on this coast lie much nearer the shore. About 7 leagues to tlie eastward of Noesa Baron, far inland, Moneroo high Peaked Mountain is situated, which may be seen when coasting along in clear weather. There are soundings of 40 to 25 fathoms between Noesa Baron and the main, where shelter might be found under the Island from southerly winds, in a case of necessity. Tangaia Isles. TANGALA ISLES are small, three in number, situated near each other, and ap- pear joined together when viewed from the westward, but separated when seen from the southward: the central, or largest isle, is in lat. 8° 26' S., Ion. 112° 26' E. by chronometers, and is on with a remarkable hill bearing N. ^ E. To the westward of Tangaia Isles there are two remarkable hills near the sea. ^ I'achiun Hay, PACHITAN, Or PATEJETAN BAY, in Ion. 111° 6' E., is said to afford shelter from all winds, in depths of 9 to 13 fathoms black sandy bottom, although there is generally a heavy surf beating against the shore at the bottom of the bay. The course into this bay is about North, having 40, 30, to 25 fathoms in the entrance, which is 1 or 1^ miles wide, opening inside into a circular basin or bay. Turtle Bay. TURTLE BAY, in lat. 7° 48' S., separated from Maurice Bay by the Island Kambangan, or Cambangan, distant about 7 leagues from the latter Bay, seems to be well sheltered from westerly winds by the island mentioned, where ships may lie in 7, to 8, or 9 fathoms, fine black sand ; and the eastern side of this Bay affords shelter from easterly winds. The Strait that separates Cambangan from the main is narrow, with soundings of 20 to 3 fathoms, the eastern entrance being called the Eastern Harbour, having depth of 7 to 4 fathoms, by keeping close to the island. The other entrance of Western Harbour is rocky, with a winding channel, and the Island Noesa Waru at the South part of it. Penanjong EAST PENANJONG BAY, called Maurice Bay by the Dutch, in about Ion. *^* 108° 30' E., is formed by a peninsula on the West side, and on the East side by the Island Cambangan, mentioned above, which island extends about 6 leagues from W.N.W. to E.S.E. ; the Strait that separates it from the main communicates with a large inland lagoon, called Segara Anakan Bay. Penanjong Bay affords good shelter in the westerly monsoon, also fresh water easily obtained, and other refresh- ments may be got, as appears by the journal of the Company's ship Anna, bound to Bencooleu, which ship anchored here in 7 fathoms black sand, on the 24th of Decem- ber, 1703, and moored with the extremes of the land from E.S.E. to S.S.E. i E., the latter being the S.W. point of the Bay. She struck her top-masts, examined her rigging, wooded and watered, obtained rice, some buffaloes, fruits, and vegetables in this bay, and sailed from hence on the 10th of January, 1704, for Bencoolen. When entering Penanjong Bay, a rock perforated like the arch of a bridge will be discerned, also three rocks in a line like three sugar-loaves : there is no danger, the soundings decreasing gradually till within a mile of the shore, where a ship may an- chor, or nearer if requisite. Fresh water is easily got in a small sandy bay. WEST PENANJONG BAY, or CHIKAMBULAN BAY, called Dirck Vries Bay by the Dutch, situated in about lat. 7° 50' S,, is separated from the Bay last de- FROM ST. PAUL ISLAND TOWARDS SUNDA STRAIT. 149 scribed by a peninsula projecting into the sea. This Bay also affords shelter from the westerly monsoon, where refreshments may be got, but not fresh water, without great difficulty. The Anna anchored here in 11 fathoms fine black sand, on the 11th of December, 1703, with the western extreme of the land bearing S. ^ VV., the eastern extreme E. by N., and a mountain, probably Tegal Hill, N. E. by E., appearing like a sugar-loaf, high over the other land. Here she remained till the 24th, and finding the natives friendly, got timber for spars and fuel, plenty of rice, fowls, vegetables, some buflalo beef; abundance of fish may be caught in the sandy bays, but she was obliged to pro- ceed for Penanjong Bay to fill up her water. The land on the South coast of Java is not easily known, the alternate high and low lands having a similar appearance in coasting along. From the West part of the last-mentioned Bay, the coast stretches about W. by N. to Wine Cooper Point; it then takes a direction northward and north-eastward, to the parallel of 7° S., by which an extensive concavity is formed, called Palatasan, or Wine Cooper Bay, at the bottom of which there are soundings and anchorage within a mile of the shore, with shelter from the easterly monsoon. From the bottom of this Bay, tlie direction of the coast is nearly W. ^ N., about 28 leagues to Java Head. ANJOL, or WINE COOPER POINT, in lat. 7° 28' S., Ion. 106° 30' E., is en- Anjoi Point. vironed by rocks and breakers, having a small low sandy islet near it, on which several trees appear. In coming from the eastward this point is easily distinguished, the double land having a declivity towards it, and the point itself low, covered vvith trees, and terminates the coast in this part to the westward. CLAPS' ISLAND, called also Breakers' Island, bears W.N.W. about 20 leagues ciaps-and from Point Anjol, and is distant about 3^ leagues from the shore of Java, and about ,3!,^""'"" the same distance W. by S. from Trower Island, which lies about 2 leagues ofl" shore; they are both low, covered with trees, having soundings near them, and anchorage inside of Claps' Island ; to the northward of it and Trower Island, the land of Java is low ; a little farther eastward it is high, with steep clifl's facing the sea ; the laud over Java Head is also high. Ships running for the land to the eastward of Java Head Appearance or have often mistaken the high land first mentioned, for that over Java Head ; and the j''/J''hJ^™' space of lowland between them, for the entrance of the Strait, as this is not discerned till well in with the coast. The high land over Java Head and that to the eastward are similar in appearance, the West end of each having a sharper declivity than their eastern extremities. JAVA HEAD is in lat. 6° 48' S., Ion. 105° 11' E. by mean of many chronometers Java HeaJ. and lunar observations taken in different ships, or 1° 4i' W. from Batavia City, mea- sured by good chronometers : it is a bluflT promontory, at the foot of the high land that forms the West end of Java, and from Claps' Island, it is about 7 leagues N.W. by W. Near the shore, to the southward of Java Head, there is a reef on which the sea breaks : and several rocks, near a mile oft', may be perceived in coasting along from the southward. The variation near Java Head in 1790 was 1^° easterly. FROM THE ISLAND ST. PAUL, ships bound to Sunda Strait or Bencoolen From st. Paui may run several degrees to the eastward of its meridian before they edge away to get g,"^"/^' """''■' into the S. E. trade ; they may afterwards keep away gradually to the north-eastward, 150 FROM ST. PAUL ISLAND TOWARDS SUNDA STRAIT. Towards Sun- da Strait in tlic easterly mon- soon. Westerly iron, soon. Passage during this monsoon. Passage to Bencoolen. Instances of great delay. and cross the tropic of Capricorn in about Ion. 102° E. — From March to September, they should get on the meridian of Java Head, several degrees from it, and steer North ; the S. E. trade sometimes prevailing easterly in March, April, and May, with a current setting to the westward along the South coast of Java, during the easterly monsoon from March to September, renders it indispensable to keep to the eastward, and not fall to leeward of Java Head if bound into Sunda Strait in this season; ships should, therefore, endeavour to make Claps' Island, or Java Head itself, if certain of the longitude by observation, or by good chronometers. In .May, June, and part of July, those bound to Bencoolen need not make Java Head, but they will probably make the quickest passage by steering direct for En- gano, and from thence for Bencoolen, as the winds admit; becau.se, in these months the winds often veer to N.W. with south-easterly currents, which enables the small coasting vessels to come from the northward to Bencoolen. From September to March, N.W. and westerly winds often prevail between the northern limit of the S. E. trade and the equator, which is called the westerly or N.W. monsoon. In December and January, the westerly and N.W. winds are generally strong, extending from lat. 1° or 2° N. to lat. 12° or 14° S. These winds force a lee current before them to the eastward, which runs strong along the South coast of Java; the weather being then mostly dark and cloudy, with much rain. Several ships, in this season, having fallen in with the land to the eastward of Java Head, found it im- possible to beat round against the westerly winds and strong currents setting to the eastward; they were, therefore, obliged to steer southward, re-entering the S.E. trade, where they made westing sufficient to pass to the westward of Java Head. In the season when westerly winds prevail, a ship bound to Sunda Strait ought not to proceed to the Northward on the meridian of Java Head, but should steer direct for the S.W. end of Sumatra, or the Island Engano, taking care to pass Java Head well to the westward, as the winds are often variable between West and N. N.W. near Engano and the entrance of Sunda Strait. When nearly on the parallel of Java Head, and 1° or 2° to the westward of it, a direct course may be steered for the strait, with an allowance for a probable current setting to the southward. These instructions may be followed from September to March, and ought certainly to be adopted in November, December, January, and part of February, when the westerly monsoon usually predominates. In this season, a ship bound to Bencoolen should steer to the northward after losing the S. E. trade, keeping nearly on the meridian of Achen Head till she is well to the northN\ard of the Cocos Island, or approaching the latitude of Java Head ; she will then probably meet with north-westerly winds, with which a course may be followed to fall in with Trieste (Reefs) Island ; or she may pass this island to the northward, between it and the Island Larg, if the wind prevail from northward ; but should it incline from S.W. or southward as she approaches the former island, a direct course to the southward of it may be pursued for Bencoolen. One of the ships from London, bound to Bengal for rice, fell in with the island Engano in January, 1796. From hence, with north-westerly winds and a current setting to the S. E., she was carried to the southward of Java Head, and obliged to stand to the southward with the westerly winds, till in lat. 10° S. they became vari- able, which enabled her to make westing. This mistake occasioned the loss of several men by scurvy, as they were short of provisions, &c., and no supply obtained, till, after this protracted passage, she reached Bengal. Another instance may be adduced, to shew the care requisite in running for the FROM ST. PAUL ISLAND TOWARDS SUNDA STRAIT, 151 Strait, and not to make the land to the eastward of Java Head in the N.W. mon- soon . Captain G. Richardson, of the Pigot, fell in with the land 5° to the eastward of Java Head, in Decemher, 1771 ; this proceeded from the instructions advising the land to be made to the eastward of the Head, without noticing the seasons. He was obliged to stand to the southward into the S.E. trade, lindiug it impossible to get to the westward otherwise, the westerly winds being constant, with a current setting to the eastward along tlie South coast of Java. Having made sufficient westing in the trade to weather Java Head, he entered Sunda Strait, six weeks after falling in witii the South coast of Java. The Anna, bound to Bencoolen, made Java Head bearing N.N.VV. ^ W. on the .5th December, 170.'5; having strong westerly winds and lee currents, she could not beat round it, and was forced to bear away on the 9th, in search of water and refresliments, in some of the bays on the South coast of Java; and she got all these with facility in Maurice Bay, as may be seen in the description of the South coast of Java. H.M.S. Satellite, bound to Raffles Bay, North coast of Australia, left Achen Head Passage tvom June 29th, 1828, and made the South coast of Java in lat. 7° .55' S., Ion. 108° .52' E. ^V"^" '" . , ' ' . iimor against July 14th; had strong westerly currents to the southward of lat. 9° S., which were not the easterly experienced in working to the eastward near the coast of Java, nor was much expe- rienced along the coast of Sumbawa : but after leaving the latter, and making the western part of Sandalwood Island, August 5th, in lat. 9° 51' S., Ion. 119° 31' E., the current set daily from 25 to 30 miles to the westward in working along the South coast of Sandalwood Island, and from hence it continued nearly the same till she reached Rotti, August 11th ; she passed from hence along the North coast of Semao, and touched at Copang for refreshments, where she remained six days, then sailed, and in Ion. 125° E. crossed over the centre of Sahul Bank, as marked in Capt. Flin- ders' chart, but got no soundings with 70 to 130 fathoms line. In lat. 11° 3.3' S., Ion. 125° 12' E., had a cast of 35 fathoms white sand and coral, and then no ground 120 fathoms: steered then S.S.E. 10 miles, and had 80 fathoms white sand, the depth gradually decreasing afterwards in approaching the Australian coast, agreeing exactly with Capt. King's chart. September 2d, at 7 a.m. tacked in 12 fathoms mud, a small island oft' the West point of Raffles Bay, bearing S.E. by E. 4 miles. Cape Croker, E.S.E. At 8^ A.M., tacked and led into the anchorage oft" Fort Wellington, anchored in 4i fathoms, the Flagstaft" of the Fort E. by S. i S., Round Island, S. ^ E. Here she remained two days, but could not obtain any water without distressing the settle- ment, there being only one well. monsoon. 152 THE OUTER PASSAGE TO PLACES ON EITHER SIDE THE BAY OF BENGAL. PREVAILING WINDS.— PASSAGE TO BENGAL. TO MADRAS. -PASSAGE DilfereBt routes towards India. Winds in the Indian Seas. S. E. Trade. Easterly mon- soon, in South latitude. Westerly mon- soon. S. W. monsoon in North latitude. PREVAILING WINDS. NAVIGATORS have the choice of proceeding by the Mosambique channel, or any of the routes East of Madagascar, when the S.W. monsoon prevails to the north- ward of the equator, which is from March to October. The outer passage to the eastward of the Chagos Archipelago may also be adopted in the same season, or at any time of the year, but ought certainly to be followed by all ships from Europe, or the Cape of Good Hope, which cross the equator from September to April, when north-easterly winds mostly prevail in North latitude. Between Madagascar and Australia, the trade wind generally prevails from S.E. in lat. 26° to 12° S. In February, March, April, and May, the southern limit of this trade is frequently extended to lat. 23° or 30° S. ; and in these months, the wind is often fixed at East or E.N.E., continuing from these directions many days together ; this happens more particularly in the ocean, for near the West coast of Australia the trade wind blows from southward and S.W. ; and eastward of Madagascar, near the Islands Mauritius and Bourbon, it is often obstructed by sudden changes. From the equator to lat. 12° S., the winds prevail from East and E.S.E. during six months; this is called the easterly monsoon, and continues from April to November. From October to April, the westerly winds prevail within the same limits, blowing often at N.W. and N.N.W., with cloudy weather and rain; this is called the ivesterly monsoon, and brings the rainy season ; the easterly monsoon being the dry season to the southward of the equator. The westerly winds are strongest in December and January, but never so constant as the easterly winds in the opposite monsoon, which frequently extend to the equa- tor, in June, July, and August, from the meridian of Madagascar to Ion. 90° E. ; but in proportion as the distance from Sumatra is decreased, the northern limit of the easterly monsoon recedes to the southward, leaving a space of baffling variable winds and calms between it and the equator. When the S.E. or easterly monsoon is prevailing to the southward of the equator, on the North side of it the S.W. monsoon predominates, which is the rainy season in North latitude on most of the coasts of India. It commences in April at the North part of the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and China Sea; but seldom till May near the equator, which is its southern limit ; from thence it blows home to all the coasts of India, Arabia, and China, continuing till October : this is a changeable month, liable to gales of wind on the Malabar Coast and in the Bay of Bengal. PASSAGE TO THK BAY OF BENGAL. 153 f In October, or early in November, when the N,W. or westerly monsoon begins to n. E.mon- the southward of the equator, the N.E. monsoon commences in the Arabian Sea, Bay """' of Bengal, and China Sea, which continues till April. This is the fair weather mon- soon in the Arabian Sea and in the Bay of Bengal, the winds being more moderate and settled than in the S.W. monsoon. The equator is the southern boundary of the N.E. monsoon, or general limit between it and the N.W. winds prevailing in South latitude ; but there is often a considerable space between them, subject to light vari- able breezes and calms. It may be observed, that the N.E. monsoon should commence in October; but this is seldom the case in the southern part of Bengal Bay, for between Ceylon and the entrance of Malacca Strait, from the equator to lat. 8° or 10° N., westerly winds are WMicriy frequently experienced in October and November, which blow strong and constant " "' " several days at a time : near the equator, these winds are mostly at N.W. and N.N.W. In a direct line from Ceylon to Achen Head, they are from W.S.W. to VV.N.VV.; and more northward into the Bay, from S.W. and S.S.W. In October and November, these westerly winds prevail much about the Nicobars and the entrance of Malacca Strait, and from thence to Ceylon, so that it appears very detrimental for ships bound to that island, or to the Coromandel Coast, to fall in with Achen Head in these months ; nor is this requisite during any period of the N.E. monsoon, for it must frequently lengthen the passage. It is generally very tedious passing from the West coast of Sumatra or Sunda Strait to Ceylon, in October and November, on account of north-westerly and variable light winds. winds in Oc- lobtr artd No- vember, from Ceylon to Achen Head. PASSAGE TO THE BAY OF BENGAL. Ships bound to the BAY OF BENGAL, when they are entering the southern limit of the S.E. trade, or in about lat. 26° to 28° S., should be in about Ion. 80° to 83° E. if they expect to pass the equator from March to October, whilst the S.W. monsoon prevails to the northward. In standing across the trade, it often happens that no easting can be made, the wind blowing more from East and E.N.E. than from S.E. ; this has been experienced in different seasons of the year, but more par- ticularly in March, April, and May. Between the meridians of Cape Comorin and Madagascar, in the western part of the Indian Ocean, the trade wind is most liable to hang far eastward ; for near Java and the West coast of Australia it is found mostly at S.E. and southward. As the S.E. trade is liable to blow from eastward, ships ought not to enter it far to the westward, with the view of running down much longitude whilst crossing, in case of getting near the Maldiva Islands with a scant trade.* When they get into lat. 1° or 2° N. from April to October, they may be certain of the westerly monsoon to carry them to any part of the bay. Ships bound to Ceylon or Madras in this season, should steer to the northward through the trade, keeping a little to the westward of the meridian of Point de Galle, if bound there. If bound to Trincomalee, they should Of enterinji the S.E. trade. HiiH proceeding tu tlie Bay of Bengal. * This happened to the Contractor, as may be seen under the description of the southern part of the Mal- diva Islands, and other ships have experienced the same. The Severn, Capt. Adam Dixon, bound to Bombay, entered the S.E. trade in lat. 27° 40' S., Ion. 70° E., Dec. 1st, 1833; the trade wind prevailing from eastward with a westerly current, forced them to the West of Diego Garcia, which was passed at 6 miles distance, and afterwards they passed over some of the coral banks of the Chagos Archipelago, and near to a sandy isle and a reef, noticed in the description of these dangers. X 154 PASSAGE TO MADRAS. make the land to the southward of it, from March to September ; and to the south- ward of Madras from the 1st of February to September, when bound there. Ships expecting to pass the equator between October and April, bound to the Bay of Bengal, may run to the northward in about Ion. 85° E. through the trade, which will probably carry them in lat. 12" to 8° S. ; variable winds, mostly from West to NAV., and squally weather, may be expected to follow, and continue from the northern limit of the trade to the equator. Passage to With thesc winds, ships bound to Malacca Strait should steer for Achen Head ; makfng a'^L but those procecding for Bengal should keep at a reasonable distance from Hog Head" Island and the N.W. end of Sumatra : for here they are subject to delay by baffling winds and north-westerly hard squalls, with a current setting into Malacca Strait, particularly in October and November, when N.W. and West winds prevail about the Nicobar Islands and Achen Head. It is improper to pass to the eastward of the Nicobar and Andaman Islands, although it was formerly thought the only secure route to Bengal, during N.E. monsoon ; but it is now well known, that light N.W. winds and southerly currents prevail along the Aracan Coast in this season, which makes the passage along it to the northward very tedious. Should any navigator, however, think the passage to the eastward of the islands requisite, during the strength of the N. E. monsoon, he ought to pass to the westward, by the JPreparis, or Cocos Channel, and not approach the coast of Aracan. After passing Achen Head at any discretional distance, from 1° to 2° or 3°, the West side of the Nicobar or Carnicobar Islands may be approached, if the wind admit, by ships proceeding to Bengal during any part of the N.E. monsoon. If the wind incline to keep to the westward, the islands need not be approached close; if at E.N.E. or N.E., ships ought to steer up the bay close on a wind, to the westward of the islands. In lat. 16° or 17° N. the wind often veers more to the northward ; favour- able tacks may then be made to the eastward at times, to keep from the West side of the bay ; neither should the coast of Aracan be approached, but ships should work to the northward in the open sea, where there is smooth water and moderate breezes, which will enable them speedily to reach the Sea Reefs. It has frequently happened in the strength of the N.E. monsoon, that ships, by passing close along the West side of the Nicobar Islands, have reached the Sea Reefs at the entrance of Hooghly River, without making a tack. Navigators from Malacca Strait bound to Bengal, who have great experience, never proceed along the eastern shore, but adopt the channels be- tween the Andamans, or to the southward of the Little Andaman, or even to the south- ward of the Nicobars, in time of war. They also proceed through the channels to the northward of the Great Andaman frequently, but always avoid the coast of Aracan. Ships crossing the equator late in February, or in March, should keep well to the westward in passing up the bay, for the current then runs to the northward along the Coromandel Coast, and the winds are often between S.W. and S.E. ; whereas, in the middle of the bay, they are variable and light from N.W, to N.E. in this month, with a drain of current at times setting to the southward. PASSAGE TO MADRAS. Ships bound to MADRAS in October, or early in November, ought not to proceed too near to Achen Head in hopes of benefiting by the N.E. monsoon, for PASSAGE TO MADRAS. 155 they may be delayed by N.W. and westerly winds. In the middle or western part of the bay, in October, the winds will often be found varialjle from southward and west- ward ; with which a ship may speedily get to the northward. During- any period of Passage to the N.E. monsoon, there seems no occasion, if bound to Madras, to exceed Ion. 8G° or alfttov^ii^rl' 87° E. ; and this probably is farther than necessary, for ships which sail well.* These ing the n.e. making the ports on the Coromandel Coast should fall in with the land to the north- "°"'°°"- ward of the place to which they are bound, after September; for the current begins to set along shore to the southward late in September, or early in October, and is strongest in November and December ; but this, like the monsoons, commences in some seasons nearly a month sooner than in others. At Point de Galle, and along the South side of Ceylon, and also in the Gulf of winds anbald. 170 EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. then through the One-and-a-half Degree Channel, or the Equatorial channel of the Maldivas, which is more direct than the passage to the North of the chain. Passage from The Comwallls, Captain Burnet Abercrombie, passed about 10 leagues to the east- ,^ron°e"and.a. Ward of the Islaud Bourbon, 1st September, 1784, then to the eastward of Galega and half Degree tlic Scychelle Islauds, without seeing them. When near the equator, the wind veered jiadras.' '° to North, W.N.W., and West, with which she steered East on the parallel of 1° 30' IN., and passed through the Adoumatis, or One-and-a-half Degree Channel of the Maldivas, 27th September, being at 6 p.m. in lat. 1° 28' N., Ion. 73° 35' E. by chronometer and lunar observations, without seeing any of the isles on either side. The westerly winds continued brisk, and enabled her to steer direct for Ceylon ; saw the Great Basses on the 2nd of October, steered along the East side of the island, and arrived at Madras on the 8th of that month, having 11 days' passage from the Adoumatis Channel. EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. THE EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR, has been examined by Capt. Owen, and it is more frequented than formerly by English ships, since the Island Mauritius became a British colony : several of her Majesty's ships visits the ports on the East coast to obtain refreshments, or otherwise as duty renders necessary; along most parts of the coast, a bank of soundings extends from 3 to 5 miles off shore, containing few hidden dangers. FORT DAUPHIN, the southernmost port on the coast, is in lat. 25° I'S., Ion. 47° 2' E. by Capt. Owen's survey ; and Lieut. Evans, several years previously, made it in the same longitude. A ship bound to this place, should make the land to the northward of the port, on account of strong N.E. and E.N.E. winds, called Fort Dauphin Winds, which prevail greatly, forcing a current to the southward along this part of the coast, rendering it very difficult to gain the bay, if a ship fall to leeward. Between Fort Dauphin and Cape St. Mary, the South extremity of the island, the coast is generally bold, with soundings within a moderate distance of the shore. In approaching Fort Dauphin, as the current sometimes sets 16 leagues in 24 hours to the southward, a ship should anchor in the night, to prevent being driven to leeward, if the weather is favourable, and the bottom not rocky. To sail towards Whcu the land is seen in lat. 24° S. you perceive a chain of very high mountains;* Fort Dauphin, ^^d in 24° 15' to 24° 18' S. a hummock, in the form of a sugar-loaf, is distinguished amidst some small hills near the sea. Sailing along the coast, at 2^ leagues distance, a reef may be perceived in lat. 24° 22' S. which projects to a considerable distance from the shore ; and a little farther southward, you discover, through St. Luce Islands, some small rocky shoals under water, at a considerable distance from the shore be- Fort Dauphin. Winds. Currents. * The perpendicular height of this chain is supposed to be nearly 3,600 yards above the sea level. EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. 171 betweeen lat. 24° 35' S. and 24° 45' S. which require great care. Continuing to sail along at the same distance from the shore, a point will be discerned S.W. by W., ap- pearing to stand by itself, with two hummocks, more flat than round ; and after this, another point, with hummocks of the same shape. These two points have been often taken for Point Itapere, which is the next, or third in order, having sharp pointed hummocks. When you come near the second point, steering along the coast, at 1 ^ leagues distance, there are shoals, some of which extend above 2 miles from the shore: it is therefore advisable to keep an offing of ]|^ leagues, or more. Itapere Rock, whose breakers are always seen, is the surest mark to distinguish the i^pei"* Roc''- Point, from which it is distant about 1 mile to the southward, but there is no passage between them ; these breakers sometimes run very high. Two leagues West from this rock, lies Fort Dauphin: the coast between Itapere Point and that on which the fort stood, forms a cove or bay, named Tolonghare, by Xoiongimre or the natives, and Anse Dauphine by the French, who were formerly settled there, and phlnc. "" of whose fort the remains are still visible. Ships generally go within the elbow made by the point. Having passed Itapere Rock, at the distance of a mile, or a little less, steer for Fort Dauphin Point, which is encompassed with a reef to the distance of a cable's length, having good anchorage within it. A good berth is with Point Itapere E. 5° or 6° S., Anchorage. and the extreme of the breakers nearest the anchorage S. £. by E., the larboard an- chor to the N. E. in 7 fathoms, sandy ground ; the starboard anchor in 6 fathoms, having 28 or 29 feet water under the ship; a third anchor is placed to the N.W. if requisite. When there is not sufficient day-light to reach the road, having doubled Itapere Rock, you may anchor in any part of the bay, if the weather admit, observing that the quality of the ground is not everywhere the same. Indifferent water is obtained at the landing place by digging in the sand, which Water, may answer for cooking and for the stock ; but at a small distance inland there are plentiful springs of very good water. To the southward of Fort Dauphin Point, there is a bay of foul ground, called Galleons Bay. The Point is even land, of middling height, and the country GaiUons Bay. is mo(nitainous inland to the N.W. of Fort Dauphin Bay. Betwen Fort Dauphin and Tamatave Road, there appears to be no place of shelter that will afford safe anchorage for ships, and, consequently, this part is less visited than other parts of the coast. MANOOROO or MANOUROU, in lat. 19° 55' S., Ion. 48° 52' E., is a town M.nooroo. where it is said a ship might be sheltered inside of the adjacent reefs, but it seems too much contracted for large ships, and ought not to be chosen as a place of refreshment, unless in a case of necessity, in the fair weather season. TAMATAVE, in lat 18° 10' S., Ion. 49°28'E. by Capt. Owen's survey, is a village Tamatave. on a low point of land, having good anchorage within the coral reefs, which secure ships from N. E., easterly, and southerly winds. Point Hastie, on which stands the town, is environed by a reef to the distance of nearly half a mile, and between the North point of it and the southern point of the North or outer reef, is the direct pas- sage, rather more than a quarter of a mile wide, leading into the road, M'hich has depths from 1.3 to 7 or 6 fathoms. The North reef extends about 1| miles North and South, and its southern point is about 3 quarters of a mile N, N. E. from the town. About half z 2 172 EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. a mile N. E. from the North end of the North reef, lies another small reef, having a passage between tiieni of 6 or 7 fathoms water; there is also a passage of 10 and 12 fathoms close along the western side of the North reef, leading to the road. About 2 miles northward from the North extreme of the North reef, there is another small reef and sand bank, rather more than a mile S. by W. from Plum Island. To the southward of Tamatave from 3 to 7 leagues distance, several reefs exist about 3 or 4 miles from the shore, and about 3 quarters of a mile to the S. S. W. of Tamatave Reef, there is another ■r'''"- small reef. High water here at 4 hours 18 minutes, and the rise of tide 8 feet at full and change of the moon. Variation 13° W. in 1825. PLUM ISLAND (He aux Prunes), in lat. 18° 3' S. distant 2 miles from the nearest part of Madagascar, is covered with trees, seen at the distance of 5 leagues, and a reef projects about a quarter a mile from it to tlie northward, southward, and eastward : to the N. E. of the island about a mile, lies the South extremity of a reef, which extends another mile to the N. N. E. having overfalls near it. Directions for When southcrlv wiuds prevail, it is proper for ships bound to Foule Point to make "oi'm! ° "" this island, and as that place is often preferred to Fort Dauphin, on account of its greater facility and better anchorage, those bound there for refreshments may attend to the following observations. The coast adjacent to Plum Island is low, covered with trees, and safe to approach • having 8 and 7 fathoms water within a quarter mile of the shore. There is a rocky bank with breakers about 3 leagues N. N. E. from Plum Island, and 1^ leagues farther on the same bearing, a shoal with 3 fathoms water on it: 1 league to the N. N. E. of this, there is another with 4 fathoms, which dangers are about a league from the shore. From Plum Island to Foule Point, the coast of Madagascar is of moderate height, uneven and woody, rising gradually inland, till double and treble mountains are seen at a great distance. The shore consists of white sand, lined with breakers, projecting 2 or 3 cables' lengths into the sea. When Plum Island bears N.W. about 2 leagues distant, you perceive on the North side, a small hill nearer the shore than the others, and forming two Paps ; they are called the Paps* of Natte, from the village in that quarter, where the natives often hoist a white Hag. Several vessels have mistaken this place for Foule Point, which lies 3 leagues farther North; but this error will be avoided, if you observe that Plum Island is visible from Natte, but cannot be seen from Foule Point ; if, therefore, you bring the island to bear S. 30° W. when it is dis- appearing in the horizon, you may steer N. 15° E. for Foule Point, which is on this bearing. These directions must be followed only during the season of the S. E. winds, for in the season of the N. E. winds, you ought not to make the land to the southward of the place to which you are bound. Foule Pent. FOULE POINT VILLAGE, in lat. 17° 40' S. Ion. 49° 37' E. by the survey, affords bullocks and refreshments ; anchorage is formed by a large reef, which begins on the shore about 1^ miles to the southward of the village, and extends nearly a mile to the N. E. by E. i E. of the point. Come no nearer this reef than a quarter of a league, and range along round its northern point at the distance of a little more than a cable's length ; the breakers are visible, but they show less at high water, and with a fresh * These inland mountains, called also Foule Point Paps, which are marks for this place, he about 15 leagues to the westward. There are four of them, but in coming from Plum Island only two are seen. EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. 173 breeze. When round the North end of the reef, haid to the S.W., and anchor under Anchorage. shelter of it in or 7 fathoms sand and mud, the North point of tlie reef bearing- about E. by S.^ S. and the village S. Ijy W. about 1 mile distant. Ships moor E.N.E. and W.S.VV., and if to remain a considerable time, it is proper to have a third anchor to the N.W. Within the reef, close to the point, there is a basin, where a ship might anchor in 4 or 4| fathoms ; but it is not very safe, and hemp cables are liable to be cut by the rocks. The variation here was 16° W., in 1824. Foule Point should only be frequented in the fine season, when the Southerly and S.E. winds prevail, the reef affording no shelter against northerly winds, or stormy weather. The winds here are periodical, the S.E. and southerly, prevailing from April to October or November, and the N.E. or northerly winds during the rest of the. year. This kind of monsoon is experienced in all these seas, from the equator to the parallels of Mauritius and Bourbon, and extends a considerable way to the eastward of these islands. A certain sign of land in the season of the northerly winds, and during the greatest indication ..c part of the year, is a large bank of black clouds, of an even appearance, which gathers ona''nr™"^ during the day, and extends over Madagascar. When seen from the land, this cloud has about 10° of elevation above the horizon; it may be discerned at 12, 15, and 20 leagues distance from sea, and is a sure indication of your approach to the land. FENERIVE, in lat. 17° 28' S. Ion. 49° 23' E. by Capt. Owen's survey, is a small F.nerive. town, situated at a concavity of the coast, where the anchorage is sheltered from southerly winds, in from 5^ or 6 to 7 fathoms, about 3 quarters of a mile or 1 mile oft' shore : there are 2 and 3 fathoms water close to the point where the town is built, but a little to the N.W. and S.E. reefs and islets project about half a mile from the shore. Variation 16° West in 1824. ST. MARY ISLAND, the South point called Point Bleve, is in lat. 17° 7' S. Ion. su Mary 49° 451' E. by the survey, and about 12 leagues N.E. ^ N. from the Road of Foule ''''"'^• Point. This island, called by the natives Maligah, or Nossi Ibrahim (Abraham's Island), is a long and narrow island having its length parallel with the coast of Mada- gascar, and extending from lat. 17° 7' S. to 10° 40^' S. in a direction about N.E. i N. Between this island and Madagascar, the channel is safe for ships of any size, channdwiti.in the narrowest part being about 4 miles wide, having from 27 to 33 fathoms in mid- "' channel, and usually the depths are from 17 to 32 fathoms between the island and the main, throughout the channel, decreasing towards the shore in some places. The narrow part of the channel is near the middle of the island, and formed by Larree Point, projecting about 8 miles beyond the other part of the Madagascar shore. The South point of St. Mary is formed by a small flat isle, separated from the great island by a very narrow gut or channel ; and a reef extends from the small isle about 1^ miles" to the South and S.E. The whole of the eastern side of St. Mary is fronted with reefs of breakers and some sand banks 2^ or 3 miles oft' shore, the southernmost of which is about 3 or 4 miles from the isle that forms the South Point of St. Mary. On the western side, about 7 miles from the South point, there is a bay, with an island called Quail Island at the entrance, where small vessels may find shelter. On it, the French had a factory, which they were forced to abandon in 1761, the place being unhealthy, and the natives treacherous.* To anclior at this place, steer along Anchorage. * It was first settled by the French in 1740, and 120 men left there, who were three months after cut off by the natives. They re-possessed it in 1743; and again, in 1821, when they became exposed to the deadly in- 174 EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. Tides. Tangtang. the S.AV. end of St. Mary, in 18 or 20 fathoms, and having rounded a large black rock oil" the S.W. point of the Bay, anchor in 18 or 20 fathoms, with Quail Island bearing about S. by W, ^ W., Point Larree will then bear nearly N. by E. ^ E. distant about 3 leagues. The tide rises here 5 feet perpendicular ; high water at 4 hours on full and change of the moon. The months most liable to storms or hurricanes, are January, February, and March. TANGTANG or TEINTIQUE, in lat. 16° 42' S. situated within the Island St. Mary about 3^ leagues N.W. from Point Larree, is a bay or harbour, full of shoals at the entrance, having a channel between the reefs from a quarter to half a mile wide, with 8 and 10 fathoms water, and moderate depths for anchoring inside, in 5, 6, or 7 fathoms, sheltered from all winds, within the reefs at the southern part; but more securely in 4 or 4^ fathoms inside of the peninsula that forms Point Tangtang, at the North part of the harbour.* High water at 4^ hours; rise of tide 6 feet on full and change of moon. Anton-giiBay. ANTON-GIL BAY, named Manghabes by the natives, takes its name from Antonio Gil, a Portuguese captain, supposed to be the first European who entered it. From the North end of the island St. Mary, the entrance of this bay is distant about 11 leagues, bearing true North. It is about 13 leagues in length from North to South, and 6^ leagues broad at the entrance between Cape Bellones and Durnford Noss, called formerly Point Baldrish, these bearing about E.N.E. and W.S.W. from uurnfordNoss. each Other. Cape Bellones, is in lat. 16° 14' S., and Durnford Noss, the extreme point on the East side of the entrance of the bay, is in lat. 16° 0' S., Ion. 50° 11' E., by the survey of Captain Owen. Directions. In sailing towards Anton-gil Bay, in the southerly monsoon, pass through the channel between St. Mary and the main land, or to the eastward of the island at discre- tion ; but in the northerly monsoon, do not make this island, for then, a direct course ought to be steered for the entrance of the Bay, and sail along either side of it as most expedient, the depths of water and quality of the ground being nearly the same, and the depths decrease to 30, 25, 20, and 15 fathoms, as the head of the bay is approached. Anchorage. Marosse, in lat. 15° 30' S., is an island about 2 miles in extent, and 1^ miles distant from the point of Tungumbaly River at the head of the bay, having four islets to the southward, the farthest of these distant from it about 4^ or 5 miles. The common anchorage is to the northward or westward of Isle Morosse, at the distance of a musket- shot, opposite to two small sandy coves, in 11 or 12 fathoms, and called Hastie Road, by Captain Owen. Wood and water are procured here with great convenience, and tents may be erected safer than on the main, where you must trade for provisions. The river's mouth bears N. by W., from Isle Marosse, and is navigable by large boats, having l^ fathoms at the entrance, and 3 or 4 fathoms for a little distance inside. The anchorage to the N.W. of the river, is an excellent harbour, called by the French, Port Choiseul, where ships may anchor in (5 or 7 fathoms, close to the village of Maran Seetzly. The tide rises about 5 feet on full and change of moon ; high water at 4 hours. Variation 11° W. in 1824. Rice, bullocks, &c. are procured here. fluence of the sickly season, which prevails from December until the middle of May, and in three months their numbers were reduced from 290 to 130 men. The plan of this harbour, and the other ports on the coast of Madagascar, published at the Admiralty from the surveys made under the direction of Captain Owen, in 1824 and 1825, will be found of the utmost importance to ships visiting those parts. Tides. EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. 175 Departing from Anton-gil Bay, bound to the northward, steer along the eastern To sail from shore, taking advantage of favourable breezes with the ebb tide. At a small distance '''" ^^^■ southward from Durnford Noss lies a small island called Behenter, to the southward of which ships may anchor when trading to this place. From hence, the coast extends n. e. coa« of about 2 leagues eastward, and is lined with a reef projecting 2 miles out, till it joins ^^'"^'S^^'"- another islet called Nepatte ; from this islet, the direction of the shore is about N.E. ^ N., for 3 or 4 leagues, then about N.E. | N. to Cape East. VENINGUEBE BAY, in lat. 15° 57' S. about 1^ leagues to the northward of the veninguebe East point of Anton-gil Bay, is about ^ a mile wide between the reefs that form the ^^' entrance. It appears unsafe, particularly for large ships. On the point of the reef forming the North side of the bay, which is very extensive, the French frigate La Gloire was lost, going out in 1761. NGONCY or CAPE EAST, (outer islet), is in lat. 15° 16' S., Ion. 50° 31' E. by Ngonc^.or Capt. Owen's survey, and the town is about 1^ or 2 miles to the N.W., the whole of "^^ the coast hereabout is lined with reefs, which in several places project 2 miles from the shore ; it is, therefore, proper to keep at least an offing of 1 league in sailing along. From Cape East to Vohemar Point, in lat. 13^ 24' S. the direction of the coast is about N. ^ W., and N. by W. to N. by W. ,} W.. from this Bay to Cape Ambre, the northern extremity of Madagascar. From Cape East to Cape Ambre, the land is generally high and uneven, except near the sea, in some places it is level, and of moderate height. Tlie shore is rocky, with several islets and coral reefs in different parts, pro- jecting 1, 2, 3, to 4 miles. NGONCY ROAD, or CAPE EAST BAY, in lat. 15° 13' S., (the entrance) is Ngoncy Uoad. Ij or 2 miles to the North of the outer islet, formed between the reefs, and is about half a mile wide, with soundings of 5 to 8 fathoms ; and at the southern part of the road there are 4 and 3^ fathoms about a mile inside of the entrance, where vessels might find shelter from all winds by the reef that extends to the northward from Cape East, excepting those that blow from N.E. to North. Ngoncy Town is situated at the South part of the bay, and NoabeTownis l^ miles to the north-westward, upon the sandy peninsula that forms the southern side of the entrance of Noabe or Great River, which is shoal, and barred by reefs. VOHEMAR POINT is in lat. 13° 23' S. Ion. 50° 3' E., and Manambatoo Village Vohemar Point in lat. 13° 14' S., Ion. 49° 58' E., by Captain Owen's survey, but there are no safe Zto^^""'"' places for ships to anchor on this part of the coast. ANDRAVA BAY, in lat. 12° 55' S., Ion. 49° 56' E., by the survey, is about 1| Andrava uay. miles in extent, of circular form, with an island in the middle of the entrance, having depths of 4 to 6 or 9 fathoms on either side, but reefs project from the North and South extremities of these islands. This bay is open to North and N.E. winds, but there appears to be good shelter from East winds, in 4 or 5 fathoms, at the South extremity of the bay, about 3 quarters of a mile to the S.W. of Berry Head, which forms the eastern point. PORT LEVEN, discovered and surveyed by Captain Owen, is formed on the East Port Liven. side by an extensive reef encircling five islands, and several rocky islets, which project i76 EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. about 2 lea"-ues to the North, from Point Liverpool, the N,W. boundary of Andrava Bav. INoshe How, the northernmost of these islands is in lat. 12° 47' S., Ion. 49° 53' E., and Noshe Manambedy is another island about 3 miles to the N.W., also environed by a reef, and contiguous to the main land : between these two islands and their pro- jecting reefs, is formed the entrance of Port Leven, about a mile wide, until about 2^ miles inside, where the channel is contracted to about half a mile, and continues nearly the same for 2 miles farther up the harbour, with depths usually from 8 to 6 fathoms even soundings throughout the port and in the entrance, between the reefs on either side, excepting a patch of 3 fathoms to the S.W. of the North point of Noshe How, and nearly in mid-channel. The course into the harbour is S. by W. for 2^ or 3 miles, then S. ^ E., in the upper part or inner harbour, which is sheltered from all winds ; as is also a basin or large opening in the reef on the West side of the entrance near the main land, with depths from 6 to 3^ fathoms. AmbreMoun. Thcrc is a high mountain inland, called Ambre Mountain by Captain Owen, the centre of which is in lat. 12° 37' S., and it extends several miles North and South. tiin PortLookcor PORT LOOKE Of LOUQUEZ, in lat. 12° 46' S., seems to be a safe harbour Louqu«. jjy Capt. Owen's survey ; Point Bathurst that bounds the entrance on the East side, is in lat. 12° 44' S., Ion. 49° 47' E., fronted by an extensive coral bank, betwixt which, and another to the westward, lies the entrance of the port; the latter bank having an island on its North part, called Noshe Kahoomby, or Sandy Island, which is about 3 miles long. When abreast the South end of this island about l-^ or 2 miles dis- tance, the course is about S.S.W. between the reefs which form the entrance, and the distance about 5 miles to a safe cove or harbour, having an even bottom of sand from 5 to 9 fathoms, where ships are sheltered from all winds. The entrance leading to it is from half to a quarter of a mile wide, with deep water in it, from 20 to 40 fathoms ; and no soundings 2 miles outside. About U or 2 miles above the harbour, at the head of the inlet, there is an inner harbour, having 4 and 5 fathoms sandy bottom, where the French vessels usually moored, when they visited this port. Between the outer and inner harbour, an exten- sive bank projects from the point on the eastern shore, about two-thirds across the Tides. channel, which makes it very narrow in tliis part. It is high water at 3^ hours at Point Bathurst, and the tide rises 7 feet. On the S.E. side of the point, there is a False Port. bay Very open to the northward, called False Port. British Sound. BRITISH SOUND entrance, is in lat. 12° 14' S., Ion. 49° 23' E., by the obser- vations of Captain Owen, of H.M.S. Leven, who surveyed this excellent harbour in 1824, it having been previously discovered by Captain Chapman, of H.M.S. Ariadne. Captain Owen gave it the general name of British Sound, but within the entrance it branches into several bays, named by him Irish Bay, Scotch Bay, English Bay, and Welch Pool. The entrance of the Sound is half a mile wide, with about 24 fathoms water close to its South side, and from thence to mid-channel ; and shoaling gradually to 4 and 3 fathoms near to Clarence Island, which bounds the northern side, and is contiguous to the point of the main land ; an extensive reef stretches from this point and Clarence Island, to other Islands at 2 and 3 miles distance. In the middle of the Sound there are 35 fathoms, shoaling gradually to the banks and shores of the bays inside. About 3 miles West from Clarence Island, nearly in the centre of the Sound, lies Chapman Rock above water, and there are some islets in the different bays, with brooks of water near the village a little within the entrance of the Sound, on the EAST COAST OF MADAGASCAR. 177 South side. Variation 12° W. High water at 4 hours; rise of tide 4 feet at full and Tides. change of moon. Diego Saurez Bay in lat. 12° 10' S., and 4 miles to the North of the entrance of Diego Saurez British Sound, is formed by an opening between the small islands and ceefs, being ^''^' half a mile wide at the entrance, but it was not examined by Captain Owen. CAPE AMBRE, the northern extremity of Madagascar, by Captain Owen's capeAmiire. survey, is situated in lat. 11° 57^' S., Ion. 49° 19' E., but it had previously been placed 5 or 6 miles more to the eastward by several navigators. In a run of 12 days, I measured 23° 36' difference of longitude between it and Bombay Castle, by 3 chronometers, which would place it in Ion. 49° 22' E., allowing Bombay to be in longitude 72° 58' E. Mr. Stevens, by mean of 200 lunar distances, mea- sured to it by chronometers, made it in Ion. 49° 25' E. ; and the mean of all the best authorities in my possession, would place it in Ion. 49° 17^' E. Ambre Mountain, already mentioned, is about 12 or 13 leagues to the southward of the Cape, and it is a regular sloping mountain. Windsor Castle, another mountain of less elevation tiiaii the former, lies in lat. 12° 13' S., about 3^ leagues West from the entrance of British Sound ; and several conical hills are interspersed betwixt the Sound and Cape Ambre : but this Cape is a low point of land, terminating in a ledge of rocky islets, having 15 fathoms close to them, and 20 or 25 fathoms about half a mile distant. Soundings of 18 and 20 fathoms are got near the shore, betwixt the Cape and British Sound, but the bank shelves off' suddenly to no ground. Relative to the eastern coast of Madagascar, it should be observed, that Fort Unheaithincss Dauphin is generally healthy at all times. The coast towards Foule Point is un- "^ '*"' '^"''"' healthy only in the bad season, the country is more so as you proceed northward. To preserve your crew from the diseases prevailing there during the unhealthy season, allow none of them to sleep on shore after November. From Cape Ambre, the currents set generally strong to the westward all the year. Currents, towards the Comoro Islands and the Coast of Africa. Several navigators have ex- perienced a set of 15 or 20 leagues in 24 hours to the westward. 2 a 178 ISLANDS AND DANGERS NORTH-EAST AND NORTH OF MADAGASCAR. sanrty Island. SANDY ISLAND, ov He de Sable, in lat. 15° 52' S., Ion. 54° 40' E., is a flat sandy spot, about 15 feet above water, half a mile long from N.N.W. to S.S.E., and about :]; of a mile broad, having a sand bank projecting | of a mile towards the S.S.E. It was discovered by the ship La Diane in 1722 ; and in 1761, the Flute I'Utile* was wrecked there. Ships passing to the eastward of Madagascar, if not certain of their longitude, should be careful in crossing the parallel of this low and dangerous island. The Alexander, passed on the West side of Sandy Island, within 5 or 6 miles of it, 3d January, 1810; the breakers on that side did not appear to extend far out from the Isle, which she made in lat. 15° 49' S., Ion. 54° 48' E., by chronometer. Captain Owen gives its centre in lat. 15° 53' S., Ion. 54° 36' E. Captain Moresby, visited this island 6th March, and again on the 24th of July, 1822, having at this time reached it after a run of only 40 hours from Port Louis, and 60 hours from the same place at the first time to this isle, which he made in lat. 15° 51f' S., Ion. 54° 33f' E., by chronometric measurement from Port Louis, and in Ion. 54° 38' E., by observations O < . He found it to be very low and sterile, about f of a mile in length, with a reef extending from the South point. The North point appeared to be a steep sand bank, up which the sea rolled a considerable distance. Off the N.VV. end, about 1 mile distant, the boat sounded in 11 fathoms uneven bot- tom, sand and coral; which soundings are on a spit that extends a mile or more in a N.W. direction. The Wizard rounded the island on the West side, whilst the Menai did so on the East side at half a mile distance, and except on the spit mentioned, could not obtain soundings with 100 fathoms line. The wreck of a vessel, apparently of 140 tons, lay half embedded in sand, and from her position and aspect, probably had been several years in this situation. There was also a small hut and flagstaff on its eastern end; the people who erected these were taken off by H.M. sloop flarpy. Cargados Garajos. Position. CARGADOS GARAJOS,t consists of a chain of low islets or sand banks, from 8 to 12 feet above water, with channels between some of them, having anchorage on the N.W. side to leeward of the isles The North Isle, by the French account, is in lat. 16° 28' S., Ion. 59° 31' E., having on it some shrubs, wild salad, and plenty of good water. A great variety of fine * This ship had on board 80 blacks, men and women ; the whites, who composed the greatest part of the crew, arrived safe at Madagascar after a short passage, in a flat-bottomed boat they made out of the wreck. The blacks were left on the island, with a promise of speedy relief, who all died except seven women ; these remamed on it 15 years, living on the shell-fish they could pick up, with now and then a turtle, and having nothing but brackish water to drink. Captain Tromelin, of the ship La Diligente, had the courage and good luck to land on this dangerous spot, and brought them back to Mauritius in 1776. — Abbe Rochon's Voyage. t In 1812, an inundation of the sea, it is said, nearly proved fatal to the few fishermen residing on these isles. Semilante. CAUGADOS GARAJOS. 179 fish may be caught in abundance at the edge of the reef, and there used to be a few Soundings, Europeans, and 30 or 40 negroes on the isle. Soundings extend 7 or 8 leagues to the north-eastward of this isle, and continue to increase in a N.N.E. direction to 80 or 90 fathoms on the North end of the Bank of Cargados Garajos, called also Nazareth Bank, which extends about 50 leagues in that direction from the Islands, as will be found in the sequel of this description. An English commander, who was captured by the Semilante, French frigate, states, Route of the that coming from the eastward, and after getting soundings on the Bank in tiie Semi- lante, they steered westward, the soundings regularly decreasing in a run of 6 or 7 leagues, and having got into the proper latitude, tiiey passed between the largest north isle of Cargados Garajos and anotiier sandy isle to the northward of it; after hauling round the extremity of the reef until the tnft of trees bore about S.E., she anchored in 15 fathoms sandy bottom, with the watering place bearing about East. The Semilante, with four prizes, remained a month iiere, waiting for intelligence from Mauritius ; the people ate the wild salad that grew on the isle, caught plenty of fine fish close to the edges of the reefs, and were very healthy. From this place they steered to the southward G or 8 leagues, till clear of the numerous sand banks, the southernmost danger being in lat. 16° 48' S. ; they were obliged to bear away for one shoal and haul up for another, but there are safer passages by steering out in a westerly direction. A ship coming from the eastward may haul to the northward of all the banks, and Directions. run down to the West of them, which passage is free of danger, excepting the visible reefs, with breakers on them. A shoal bears West 6 or 7 miles from the north point of Sandy Island. H. M. Ships Cornelia and Sir Francis Drake visited this chain of islets and shoals in January, 1810, and Lieutenant J. Henderson, an excellent observer, de- termined their situation as follows : — South Islet anchorage, in lat. 16° 47' S., Ion. 59° 34' E., by O < and 59° 33' E. Position by , , , ° ' ' •' Lieut. Hen- by chronometer. derson. North Islet anchorage, where there are several huts, in lat. 16° 27' S., Ion. 59° 39' E., by chronometer, and 59° 40' E., by O C. On this islet there is brackish water, but none at the South islet ; fresh water being procured at an islet called Water Isle, which bears S. by E., 7 miles distant from Nortii Islet. South Islet Flagstaff; bears S. 27° W. from North Islet Flagstaff, distant 23 miles. The south point of the shoal bears from its north point S., 20° W., distant 30 miles These are true bearings, the variation of the compass being 9° westerly. This narrow chain of islets and reefs is steep to on the east side, having in general .32 or 34 fathoms water within a quarter or half a mile of the breakers ; but the west side is not so steep, and may be approached in several places to 18 or 20 fathoms. The unfortunate loss of the Company's ship Cabalva, with Captain Dalrymple and part of her crew, on the shoals of Cargados Garajos, by crossing their latitude in the night, when correct observations were not obtained for ascertaining the longitude of the ship, and the chronometers being faulty, shows the necessity of great caution when approaching the parallel of these dangers in the night. H. M. Ship Magicienne brought the survivors to Mauritius, and while she remained at the wreck of the Cabalva, made the Bank of Cargados Garajos extend from lat. 16° 9' to 16° 52' S., and from Ion. 59° 25' to 59° 50' E. Lieutenant Hay, of H.M.S. Menai, in April, 1821, anchored off the South Isles in ^y" LJem' uay. lat. 16° 47' S. The northernmost isle, called St. Pierre, he made in lat. 16° 11' S., 2 A 2 180 CARGADOS GARAJOS — SAYA DE MALHA BANK. The Huddart'j remarks. Nazaretli Bank. between which and a small sandy isle N.N.E. of the North Isle anchorage, there is a iiood passage, by hauling round inside of a coral patch which generally breaks two or three miles W.N.W. of North Anchorage Isle. The southern reef extremity is in lat. 1G° 55' S. From the eastern edge of the reef to the westernmost dangers is about 11 miles, and the meridian assigned to the North Isle 59° 39' E. will pass through the centre of the group. The Huddart, 25th December, 1810, made the South islet in lat. 16° 47' S., Ion. 59° 31' E. I)y chronometer, and after tacking from the East side of the chain, she stood 28 miles to tlie southward, then tacked to the N.E., and weathered the islets and dangers without seeing them. At 2 p.m. 27th, she sounded in 25 fathoms coral, in lat. 14° 50' S., Ion. 61° 1' E. by chronometer and noon observation ; steered from hence N.E. ^ N, 26 miles, and sounded in 21 fathoms at 8 p.m. : steered N.E. ^ N. 33 miles, till 3 a.m., in soundings from 21 to 32 fathoms coral and weed, which was the last soundings, then in lat. 13° 41' S., Ion. 61° 15' E., after steering 13 miles to the northward, had no ground at 80 fathoms. These soundings of the Huddart, were on the Nazareth Bank, which is thought to be a continuation of the Bank of Cargados Garajos, although it is uncertain whether or not they be separated by deep water chasms. Captain Smyth, when an officer on board H.M. S. Cornwallis, November 10th, 1808, in lat. 13° 56' S., Ion. 60° 59' E., by three chronometers, had soundings on Nazareth Bank, 20 fathoms, sand and coral, and carried from 19 to 40 fathoms until the 1 1th at noon, in lat. 14° 54' S., Ion. 60° 53' E., then carried from 40 to 25 fathoms steering to the S.S.W. ; and after having no ground at 60 fathoms, again got sound- ings of" 40 to 23 fathoms; at noon, the 12th, in lat. 17° 1' S., Ion. 60° 17' E., had no bottom at 80 fathoms. The Ganges, Captain Falconer, 22d February, 1817, saw a loiv sandy isle, bearing S. 20° W., distant about 7 miles, then in lat. 16° 12' S., Ion. 52° 49' E., by observation of O and c , in soundings 20 fathoms, sand and coral ; from this situation steered East about 28 miles till 11 p.m., had then 45 fathoms, and shortly afterwards got off the Bank of Cargados Garajos. February 26th, at 9 p.m., again got soundings 30 fa- thoms, white shells, in lat. 15° S., Ion. 60° 40' E., by chronometer, and continued in soundings of 20 to 30 fathoms till 8 a.m., steering N. by E., and at noon lost sound- ings in lat. 14° 14' S., Ion. 60° 43' E. The Acteon, Captain Mackie, 16th March, 1816, at 7 a.m., in lat. 15° 20' S., Ion. 60° 14' E. by chronometer, got soundings 35 fathoms, sand and coral: steering from hence N.E. by E. and E.N.E., had generally from 25 to 16 and 14 fathoms till Ih P.M., when a strong smell of sea-weed was experienced, as if passing under the lee of a shoal or reef of rocks : at this time, the lat. 14° 30' S., Ion. 61° 23' E. by chrono- meter ; shortly after, deepened to 40 fathoms at 8 p.m, and at 9 p.m., lost soundings, steering N.E. by E. as before. Saya de Maiha Bank. SAYA DE MALHA BANK (or Coat of Mail), has lately been found to extend above a degree more to the northward than formerly supposed. Its southern ex- tremity is thought to be in about lat. 11° 30' S., and its northern extremity is known to extend to lat. 8° 18' S. H. M. Ship Galatea, 26th July, 1811, got upon a bank of 9 and 10 fathoms, the coral rocks distinctly seen under the ship, in lat. 8° 35' S., Ion. 59° 58^' E., by chronometer, and the bank appeared to extend East and West about 5 miles. This was probably the north-western patch of the Saya de Malha, which appears at SAYA DE MALHA BANK. 181 the N.W. and western parts, to consist of detached* large coral patches, with deep water between them ; for several of the Company's ships have had soundings near the same situation, and carried tliem far to the nortliward, and also to the east- ward. The Lady Carrington, in July, 1B14, got soundings of 12 and 13 fathoms, on Saya de Malha, in lat. 10° 30' S., Ion. Gl° 50' E. by chronometer, and steered from thence N. N. E. and N. E. by N., deepening regularly on these courses to 75 fathoms, in lat. 9° 43' S., Ion. 02' 20' E., then lost soundings: the Bank, therefore, seems to be of great extent in longitude, as well as in latitude. Lat. S. Lon. E. Northumberland, Jan. 1, 18J 1, had soundings on the bank in 9 19. ..60 26 She had from 7 to 10 lathoms coral 9 3. ..60 43 18 ditto 8 55. ..60 38 40 ditto 8 51. ..60 37 Huddart, in December, 1810, had 32 ditto and sand 10 44. ..60 44 14 and 15 ditto 9 55. ..60 No ground 6|&7 9|& 10 Preston and Phoenix in company, 10 ditto 9 December, 1810, No ground 9 fath. coral 9 ditto 8 No ground 8 Ditto 8 12 & 13 fath. coral 8 12 to 15 ... ditto 8 No ground 8 Marchioness of Ely & Lady Car-| ^^'^ ^^ ^^^j^^^^ ^^ rmgton in July, 1814, J By lunar ob- servations agreeing within three miles of chr. By chron. Then no ground steering N. byE. By the Phoe- nix chrono- meters. The Preston's chronos. made the lon. about 15 miles more east- erly Chron. from Port Louis. Positions and soundings on the bank. From this situation, the last named ships steered north-eastward, in soundings from 41 to 20 fathoms, till in lat. 10° 25' S., lon. 62° 10' E., and from hence to lat. 10° 0' S., lon. 62° 20' E., had regular soundings of 12 to 14 fathoms, then deepened gradually to 75 fathoms, in lat. .9° 44' S., lon. 62° 30' E., which was the last sound- ings got on the eastern edge of the bank, steering N.E. The bank is also of great extent East and West, as appears by the soundings and Extent, observations of these ships, which have also been confirmed by others. The Brig Tweed, January 14, 1817, at 6 a.m., saw the rocks under the stern, and had from 13 to 9 fathoms, coral rocks, steering N. Eastward with a light breeze till llf A.M., then suddenly no ground ; at noon, observed, lat. 8° 18' S., lon. 60° 46' E., by chronometer, from Mauritius. H. M.S. Cornwallis, June 10th, 1806, at noon, ob- served lat. 9° 47' S., lon. 61° 13' E. Variation 6° 20' W., at 10 p.m., steering N. E., sounded in 40 fathoms on Saya de Malha ; and thought we were well advanced on it ; at 12 P.M., had 42 fathoms, and generally 45 to 37 fathoms till 11 a.m., passed over a * The doubtful bank, called St. Michael's, is probably only one of the N.W. patches of Saya de Malha, as the situation assigned to it is nearly where the Galatea had soundings. In lat. 17° 10' S., lon. 58° 18' E. by chronometers, breakers were thought to have been seen by Captain Ball, of the Biramgore Grab, which might probably be occasioned by ripphngs, although he considered them to be on a shoal. 182 SAYA DE MALIIA BANK — AGALEGA ISLANDS. Uncertain if dangerous. knowl or patch in 10 fathoms, red coral and shells, the bottom clearly seen, having from t) to 8 and 7 fathoms, nearly 3 quarters of an hour ; afterwards lost soundings with the hand-lead, and at noon 11th, observed lat. 7° 23^' S., Ion. 62° 24' E., having experienced a current S. 75° W. 39 miles, since the preceding noon. The Ganges, Captain Falconer, after having sounded on the Cargados and Naza- reth Banks already mentioned, got soundings 40 fathoms on Saya de Malha at 8 a.m., 4th March, 1817, and shoaled gradually to 15 and 14| fathoms at noon, then in lat. 10° 37' S., Ion. 02° 10' E. by chronometers, having run 9 miles E. N. E. from 8 a.m., till noon ; shortly afterwards lost soundings, by which it appears that this edge of the bank is steep, with rather shoal soundings, and extends farther to the eastward than generally supposed. The ship Colombo, 2d January, 1822, got 70 fathoms on the Saya de Malha in lat. 10° 57' S., Ion. 61° 3' E., and steered to the northward upon it; in lat. 10° 15' S., Ion. 61° 20' E., she had 21 fathoms; in lat. 9° 50' to 9° 47' S., Ion. 61° 21' to 61° 29' E., carried soundings of mostly 8 and 7 fathoms rocky ground, and had twice only 6f fathoms on separate patches about 4 miles distant from each other. The rocks were distinctly seen under the ship whilst sailing over this shoal part of the bank, appear- ing in large white patches. The ship Charles the Second, from Bombay, bound to England, 25th February, 1698, got soundings 45 fathoms ooze, on Saya de Malha, in lat. 10° 34' S., and hauled up E. S. E., thinking themselves on the eastern edge of it. Having run 27 miles E. S. E. in soundings not less than 40 fathoms, then at 1 a.m., shoaled fast to 12 fathoms, coral and shells; and thinking they were rather on the West than on the East side of the bank, tacked, and steered W. by N. to N.W. till day-light, deepening to 43 fathoms ooze, as before. At day-light steered S.W. with a fresh N. E. wind, and at noon shoaled again to 14 fathoms coral rock and weeds ; afterwards deepened gradually to 50 fathoms, having run 31 miles on a S.W, course, then got no ground with 60 fathoms of line. Navigators are still left in a state of uncertainty, whether or not any part of this bank is dangerous, but as the Cornwallis had 7 fathoms, the Northumberland 7 fathoms on another part, the Preston only 6f fathoms coral rock, on a different part, and the Colombo 6| fathoms on the eastern edge, caution ought certainly to be used by those who happen to get upon this bank ; more so, as a French navigator of the island jMauritins states, that there are dangers on the southern extremity, where a ship would be liable to strike on some of the coral patches ; and the Eliza, French schooner, is said to have been in 4 fathoms, close to breakers on this part of the bank. Agalcga. Position. AGALEGA, or GALEGA, was examined by Captain Briggs, of H. M. S. Clorinde, 12th of January, 181 1. The landing was found difficult, on account of the heavy surf, the island being surrounded by a reef. A person who formerly had com- manded a French privateer, was at this time settled on the island, having under him a colony of negroes, who cultivated part of the ground with maize, wheat, &c. This island is little more than a mile in breadth, extending about 11 miles nearly N.W. and S. E., all low land,* with a gap in the middle, where the sea breaks through on high tides, which gap gives it the appearance of two islands, if viewed at a distance. The north end was found to be in lat. 10° 20' S., Ion. 56° 37' E. South end, in lat. 10° 31' S., Ion. 56° 40' E., by the chronometers of the Clorinde and Minerva in company. * The trees on it may be seen at 5 leagues distance. JUAN DE NOVA— ST. PIERRE ISLAND. 183 The ship Sir Stephen Lushington passed in sight of this island 28th January, 1811, and made it in Ion. 5t>° 39' E. by chronometer. Captain Moresby, 29th August, 1821, visited this island, and landed on the N.W. point, which he made in lat, 10°21'S., Ion. 56° 32' E. by chronometers, from Port Louis; and although he had not time to examine the S.E. point, he states, that the eastern extremity of the reefs extends to Ion. 50° 42' E. At this time, a schooner was at anchor in 8 fathoms water, two cables' lengths from the shore, under lee of the N.W. point. Some navigators think this island to be situated a little fartlier East than the longitude herein described. Captain J. Hine's chronometers made it in Ion. 56° 50' E., and Captain T. Hutcheson, of the ship Hero of Malown, made it 2 or 3 leagues farther East than the last mentioned longitude. Variation 9° 40' West in 1821. JUAN DE NOVA, extending from lat. 10° 5 J' to 10° 26' S., the centre in Ion. Juan de Nova 51° 2' E., is the southernmost of the groups of islands, north-eastward from Cape Ambre; ™"''' and it is an elliptical chain of low islets and reefs, extending N.E. and S.W. 6 or 8 leagues, having a basin in the centre, with 7 or 8 feet water on the bar leading to it; at the North part of the chain, where is good ground for anchoring. Tlie soil of these islands is mostly coral, on which grow trees of small size. Turtle and fish of various kinds, are plentiful, and some fresh water is to be obtained by digging. The tide sets about N.E. and S.W., and rises 4 or 5 feet. Tides. Capt. Moresby, of M.M. Ship Menai, 26th July, 1822, anchored at the northern part of Juan de Nova in 17 fathoms sandy bottom, and made the anchorage in lat. 10° 7' S. by good observations. Ion. 51° 5' E. by three chronometers, measured in a run of 84 hours from Port Louis. By the same means, he made the extreme of North Reef in lat. 10° 6' S., Ion. 51° 7|' E. Northwest Isle, in sight of the ship, lat. 10° 11' S., Ion. 50° 59' E. South extreme, lat. 10° 26' S., Ion. 50° 54' E. Varia- tion 8° SO' W. Some lunar observations gave the Ion. 51° 21' E., but as the weather only admitted a few sights to be taken, Capt. Moresby thought the chronometers gave the true longitude. He remained at anchor here till the 29th, turning turtle, the wind fresh from S. Eastward ; the flood tide then ran N.N.E. 1^ miles per hour, and the ebb to the S.W. Water was got by digging in the sand, at the depth of two butts. Capt. Hugh Scott, of the Company's ship Charles Grant, 8th of May, 1819, at 4 P.M., saw the western part of this group bearing E. by S. 3^ or 4 leagues distant, which part he made in lat. 10° 15' S., Ion. 50° 54' E. by chronometers, measured from lunar observations, corresponding nearly with the longitude stated above, by Capt. Moresby.* The group called the TWELVE ISLANDS, said to be situated about 10 leagues TweWe to the N.W. of Juan de Nova, seems to be one and the same group; John de Nova, ^^'*"<*'- consisting of two islands of considerable extent, and ten small ones, making twelve in number. ST. PIERRE, in lat. 9° 20' S., Ion. 50° 48' E. by Captain Moresby's observations, st. iwc. who visited it in 1822, was found to be a low island, about \\ miles long, bearing W.S.W. from Providence Island : it is peculiar from being cavernous ; the sea is * Captain Franklin, of the Northumberland, in June, 1810, made the western part in Ion. 51° 21' E. by lunars, and the mean of six ships of the fleet at the same time, made it in Ion. 52° 2\' E. by their chronometers, but this appears to be above one degree to the eastward of its longitude, as determined by Capt. Moresby. 184 PROVIDENCE ISLAND, AND REEF. Providence Island. Tides. Providence Reef. thrown a great height through the caverns, appearing, at a distance, like whales blow- ino- near it. Its formation differs from the neighbouring islands, having a thin bed of soil resting on rock which is neither granite nor lime-stone. The anchorage for small vessels is close to the reef, the bank not extending a cable's length. Variation 8° 52' W. in 1822. The tallest trees on it are scarcely 10 feet high, but may be seen 5 or 6 leagues distant. It is the nearest island on the eastern side of the channel, in steering from Cape Ambre to the northward for India. PROVIDENCE ISLAND, in lat. 9° 10' S., Ion. 51° 5' E. the North point, by Capt. Moresby's observations, is low, about two miles in length North and South : water is got by digging in the sand. There is anchorage on the West side half a mile from the shore upon uneven ground, sand and coral. The tide rises and falls 8 feet, high water at 3 hours 30 minutes on the shore, at full and change of the moon. The North part of the island is covered with cocoa-nut trees, and the South part with a spungy tree, resembling the fig-tree, and growing to the height of 40 or 50 feet. Turtle are plentiful, and land crabs of large size, which are considered palatable and whole- some food. The reef which surrounds the island, begins at the North end, and pro- jects l^ miles from the southern extremity, nearly joining Providence Reef, to be described hereafter, which extends 6 or 7 leagues to the southward. St. Pierre and Providence Islands, were seen by Capt. DriscoU, in the ship Lonach, bound from London to Bombay, who passed between them, on the 11th September, 1818. At 11 A.M., St. Pierre bore N.N.W. distant 4 leagues: at noon, it bore W. by S., the observed lat. 9° 24' S., which made the Island St. Pierre in lat. 9° 28' S., Ion. 50° 42' E. by two chronometers, corrected from Cape East Madagascar, in a short run of two days. Same time, saw Providence Island bearing E.N.E., about 4 leagues, which will place it in lat. 9° 13' S., Ion. 50° 58^' E. Passed through the channel between these two islands, which appeared safe; they bear nearly N.E. and S.VV. of each other, and have reefs projecting from their extremities. PROVIDENCE REEF extends about 7 leagues to the southward of Providence Island, and its S.W. extremity lies in lat. 9° 34' S., Ion. 50° 55' E. by Capt. Moresby's observations and chronometers, who on the 29th July, 1822, steered from the anchor- age of Juan de Nova N. by VV. 32 miles, then had the S.W. extremity of Providence Reef bearing N.E. by N. 3 or 4 miles. He steered N.N.E. 14 miles along the West side of the Reef at half a mile distance, without obtaining soundings, then saw Provi- dence Island, and shortly afterwards St. Pierre. There are two small Islets on Providence Bank, which have apparently been mistaken for the Isle St. Lawrence ; and Providence Island has also been mistaken for St. Lawrence, which seems to have no existence. The greatest breadth of Providence Reef, near the middle, is about 2 leagues, by the French account, the whole space within being filled with banks of sand and coral, several of which are above water, so that it is scarcely passable in a canoe at low tide. The French frigate L'Heureuse, was lost here, after sailing from Mauritius 30th August, 1769, for Bengal; she passed in sight of John de Nova on the East side, about 5 leagues distance, September 5th, and on the following night she struck on the South part of the Reef, and went to pieces. The crew got upon a dry sand a league within, from which they came to a small island joined with the Reef, and about 7 leagues to the northward of its southern extremity, to which they gave the name of Providence Island. After having remained two months on this island, the crew, 35 in COSMOLEDO — ASTOVE — GLORIOSO ISLANDS. 185 number, left it November 8th, in a boat which had been lengthened o feet ; and with the help of N.E. winds, they landed four days after on Madagascar, 8 leagues to the South of Cape Ambre. COSMOLEDO ISLANDS were visited by Capt. Moresby, .'Jlst of July, 1822, Cosmoiedo who made the circuit of the group within a mile of the reefs, the Wizard passing to '"'""'*''• the southward, and the Menai to the northward, but did not get soundings at that distance. This group consists of a ring of coral about 10 leagues in circumference, a quarter of a mile in some places, and others interspersed with islets and banks, inclos- ing a magnificent lagoon, into which there did not appear a single opening. The S.W. isle was named Isle Menai, its position being correctly ascertained ; it is more elevated than the others, and lias on it some coco-nut and other trees. At noon, when within a musket-shot of the centre of Isle Menai, observed the lat. 9° 40' 56" S., Ion. 47° 36^' E. by chronometers. Variation 1 1° 51' West. The geographical position of the group is as follows : North point, lat. 9° 38' S., Position. Ion. 47° 4ii' E. South point, lat. 9° 46' S., Ion. 47° 42^' E. East point, lat. 9° 4-'|' S., Ion. 47°'44l' E. West point, lat. 9° 41' S., Ion. 47° 36' E. These Isles are some- times resorted to for fish, and a few blacks are left on them, who wait the vessels' return. On the southern side there is a small patch of sand, where small vessels may anchor, during the northerly monsoon. ASTOVE, or ASTOVA, in lat. 10°6i'S., Ion. 47° 48' E., by Capt. Osven, and Astove. distant 8 leagues to the southward of the Cosmoledo Islands, is a small low island, upon which the French ships, Le Bon Royal, and La Jardiniere, are said to have been wrecked. Capt. Moresby thinks it is situated in lat. 10° 13' S., Ion. 47° 31' E., but he did not see it, having been carried to the N.W. by the current when endea- vouring to steer for it. GLORIOSO ISLANDS, two in number, are low and small, situated on a reef, Gicioso about 38 or 40 leagues to the W.N.W. of Cape Ambre. Capt. Moresby, in the ^'''"'^'■ Menai sloop of war, touched at these islands in 1821, and made the eastern one (He du Lise) in lat. 11° 32' S., Ion. 47° 39' E., and the western one (He Glorieuse) in lat. 11° 35' S., Ion. 47° 30' E., by observations of sun and moon, nearly agreeing with chronometer. Capt. Owen places He Glorieuse in lat. 11° 35' S., Ion. 47° 24' E. They are covered with brush-wood and trees 20 or 25 feet high, and are about 15 feet above the sea level, connected by a coral bank nearly 3 miles in breadth in some places, which space is filled with small isles, sand banks, and lagoons, through which no passage appears, neither could soundings be got with 100 fathoms 1 mile from the reef, on which the sea breaks with great violence. He Glorieuse, on which the boat landed, is about 1^ miles long and 1 mile broad : a small basin is formed in its eastern end by a curve of the sand bank, where a small vessel might probably find shelter, in which is 7 fathoms water, but with a rocky and uneven bottom. Turtle and birds are plentiful, but no fresh water, although it might perhaps be found by digging. He du Lise is not more than a mile in length, but has a very extensive reef stretching off it in a N.E. direction. On account of the strength and uncertainty of the cur- rents, these islands should not be approached but with a commanding breeze. The whole of these dangers appear to extend in an E. by N. and W. by S. direction, about 15 miles. The tide rises about 10 feet. Variation 1.3° 15' W. (1821.) Tides. 2 B 186 HUNTLY BANK — ASSUMPTION AND ALDABRA ISLANDS. Marquis of MARQUIS OF HUNTLY BANK, called also McLeod Bank, was discovered HumiyBank. on the 28tli Marcli, 1818, by Capt. D. McLeod, in the ship of that name, with the Duke of York in company, bound to Bombay, and is in the fair track from Cape Ambre to the northward. The Journal states, that steering N. by E. with a light breeze at S.S.W. the rocks were observed under the ship's bottom at 7 a.m., and had 10 fathoms ; the breeze being light and the water clear, stood on till 7J a.m., in 10, 10^, H, and 13 fathoms, then hove to, and sent two cutters, one to the northward, which deepened gradually from 13 to 40 fathoms about 1^ miles from the ship, then no ground at 40 fathoms. The other cutter, which went to the eastward, deepened from 13 to 20 fathoms, then no ground at 30 fathoms, about 1 mile from the ship. The Duke of York hove to, bearing S.S.W. ^ W., about 2 miles distant, and showed soundings 10, 13, and 17 fathoms. At 8^ a.m., bore away, and steered N. by E., keeping a cutter a-head of the ship until 9^ a.m., having run 4 or 5 miles N. by E. from 7 A.M., when first sounded : after 9^ a.m., got no soundings at 75 and 105 fathoms. Position. When hove to, on the bank at 7 a.m., were in lat. 9° 57' S., deduced from observa- tion at noon, Ion. 50° 18f' E., by chronometers measured from lunar observations taken 29th and 30th March, and 1st of April. The mean result of various lunar ob- servations taken before and since the 28th March, measured to the position in 13 fathoms, places that part of the bank in Ion. 50° 20' E., latitude stated as above ; and the last soundings of 40 fathoms in lat. 9° 53' S., and on the same meridian. Probably this bank is not dangerous, as the ship appeared to pass over the shoalest part, by the water deepening all round, but there was not means of forming a correct opinion of its extent. During the morning, no appearance of shoal water or breakers could be discerned from the mast-head, but only ridges of strong ripplings at short distances from each other, in one of which the boat found the water much agitated, but no ground was got at 40 fathoms ; here, the current was found setting strong to N.E., and when out of the rippling, it appeared to set weakly to N.N.W. While in soundings, the ship was surrounded by many sharks and rock-cod, several of which were caught, and the bottom seemed to be white coral rocks in ridges, with apparently deep chasms between them ; but from the regularity of the soundings, this was occasioned by the various colours of the coral. Assumption Islaiici, Aldabra Islands, French ac- count. ASSUMPTION ISLAND in lat. 9° 4.3' S., Ion. 46° 3.3' E., by Capt. Moresby's observations in August, 1822, and distant about 18 leagues westward from Cosmoledo Group, is low, with some sand downs, covered with shrubs, being about 7 miles in length, according to the French plan, extending nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W. Mr, Morphey examined it, August 15th, 1756, and anchored on the West side; on the North and East sides, it is fortified by a steep coral reef. From Isle Menai of the Cosmoledo Group, Capt. Moresby made a true course N. 88° VV., 53^ miles, when Assumption bore S.W. by W. 2 miles. By Capt. Owen, the Hummock on the S.E. point, is in lat. 9° 46' S., Ion. 46° 34' E. ALDABRA ISLANDS, called also Aro, Arco, Atques, and Aldabra, are three in number, joined by islets and rocks, making them appear as one island. A basin is formed between them, having an opening to the eastward. After leaving Assump- tion, 18th of August, 1756, M. Morphey discovered the Aldabra islands, and found their lat. 9° 24' to 9° 35' S. These were probably the islands seen in the Asia, which ship made Cape Basses, ALDABRA ISLANDS. 187 20th November, 1766, homeward-bound from Bombay; light winds followed, with frequent strong ripplings, and at noon, December 15th, a low island bore from W. by S. to W. by ]\. 1 N. distant 2| or 3 leagues; observed lat. 9° 19' S., which made the island in lat. 9° 21' S. It seemed covered with tufts of trees, or shrubs on the East side, steep to, without breakers, having red cliffs on that side, and appeared to extend E.S.E. and W.N.VV. or 8 miles in length, and 3 or 4 miles in breadth. From noon she steered S. by E. 8 miles, with the wind westerly, squally and rain, when at 2 P.M., 16th December, another island was seen from the mast-head, bearing S.W. about 8 leagues. At sunset, it had the appearance of a hummock, bearing West, with low land extending from it W. by N. |^ N., distant 4 or 5 leagues. Hove to during the night. At sunrise the island bore from W. ^ S. to S.W. by W., distant about 3 leagues; the wind being from the southward, she could not weather it, bore away to the N.W., and passed between it and the island seen the preceding noon. At 8 A.M., the body of the southernmost island bore South, distant about 2 leagues ; same time the body of the other to the northward bore North, distant about 6 leagues. At noon, 16th, observed lat. 9° 44' S. the southernmost island, distant 4 or 5 leagues, The Asia's de- scription of the Aldiibra Isles. the hummock bearing E. A S., which makes it in lat. 9° 42' S. This island is low. with a small hummock near the centre; it consists of white sand, with a few shrubs, about 4 miles in length East and West ; a sand, with breakers, projects about half a mile from the East point, but no other breakers were seen, nor had she any soundings near these islands, which were supposed the Atques or Aldabras. From thence the Asia had light winds, and four days after, passed Mayotta on the East side, at 6 leagues distance, without perceiving any shoals or dangers: she got on the Pracel Bank the second day after passing Mayotta, and continued on it a whole day, steer- ing to the S.W. and westward. Afterwards, she saw the island Juan de Nova, and the Bassas da India ; from the former to the latter she made the meridian distance 2° 16' W. by dead reckoning. The ship Lord Castlereagh, of Bombay, Capt. Laing, saw these islands, December The Castie- 15th, 1815. At daylight, thick weather, saw land from the deck, bearing S. by W. j.^«gh-s descrip- to W. by S., distant from the nearest part about 3 leagues: the wind being light and variable from the eastward, bore away to leeward of the land, in case of unknown dangers. Steered along the coast for the most projecting part, and passed it at 2 or 3 miles distance, which, after doubling, found the North side of the island to lie nearly East and West. This land consists of three principal islands, named East, Middle, and West Islands ; the two former appeared to be of equal length, and West Island about two- thirds that of the others. East Island appeared to lie in a S.E. and N.W. direction, the East end forming the projecting part mentioned above. Middle and West Islands extend nearly East and West. A reef of breakers projects from the east end of East Island, at least 3 miles in an easterly direction ; and the North side of this island appeared to be fronted by several rocks close to the shore with high breakers ; otherwise, the sea appeared deep and clear of danger. This island is of moderate height, here and there interspersed with a few trees, and a hummock near the eastern extreme, close to which the beach is fronted with white patches of sand, and there are other white patches, almost hid by the brushwood and verdure that cover this island, and give it a beautiful appearance. The gap between East and Middle Island is about half a mile wide, with breakers 2 B 2 188 ALDABKA, NATAL, AND ALPHONSE ISLANDS. stretchiii"- across, and some isles covered with bushes, extending to the southward as far as could be discerned. Middle Island is the highest, the East part of it being elevated, and covered with very higli trees, for at least a mile in extent, that may be seen 8 or 9 leagues from the deck of a moderate sized ship. The other parts of this island are well covered with verdure, and trees interspersed, with some white patches inland and on the beach, which give it a fine appearance. In coasting along this island, the beach seemed to be steep to, the water not discoloured, therefore did not try for soundings. The channel between Middle and West Islands appeared perfectly clear, about a quarter of a mile wide, without any indication of breakers or danger, with smooth water inside, where any boat might land, there being no surf whatever, and as far as could be distinguished through the gap, no islands or dangers were visible. West Island, is of level appearance, and although clothed with verdure, has very few trees or bushes on it of considerable size, like those on the two former islands; but it has, like them, several white patches. The coast of this island is also clear of danger, the N.W. end being fronted by a white beach of at least half a mile in extent, and it may be seen at 6 or 7 leagues distance from the deck of a large ship. When abreast the central part of the coast of these islands, the beach of the extremi- ties could not be seen from the poop, by which it may be inferred that their northern coast extends about 38 or 40 miles in length ; and the north and west sides of them may be approached with safety by night or day. At noon, the N.W. end of West Island bore S.S.E., distant 6 miles, observed lat. 9° 19' S., Ion. by chronometers 45° 44' E. And when the Island Comoro was seen on the 17th December, the chronometer placed it in the position given in this work, by which we may infer, that the position of the foregoing islands is pretty well ascertained, their N.W. extremity being in lat. 9° 23' S., Ion. 45° 46' E. From tiie appearance of these islands, water is perhaps plentiful, and also timber of sufficient size to be useful to any ship in distress for spars.* After the bearings were taken at noon, a squall from eastward with rain, obscured the land till half-past 4 p.m., having run 22 miles per log: it then clearing up, the island was just visible from the deck, bearing E.S.E., distant about 8 leagues. Capt. Moresby, in August, 1822, passed on the south side of the Aldabra Islands, in the Menai, and made the east point bear nearly N. by W. from Assumption Island, distant 19 miles, or in lat. 9° 24^' S., Ion. 46° 25' E. ; and according to Mons. Hodoul's plan, the extent of the Aldabra Islands East and West is 11 leagues, making the western extremity in Ion. 45° 51' E., nearly agreeing with Capt. Laing's obser- vations. Natal Island, NATAL ISLAND, is generally placed about a degree to the northward of Alda- doubtfui. ij,,^^ Q,. jj^ j^^ go 2.y or 8° 35' S. : but its existence is doubtful. Aiphonse. ALPHONSE ISLAND is low, of considerable extent, having on it some small trees or shrubs. The Carmarthen, Capt. Ross, passed it 12th of April, 1811, and found it surrounded with breakers. Capt. Moresby made the North point in lat. 6° 591^ S., Ion. 52° 41' E. by chronometers, and 52° 45^' E. by observations of O < . Variation 7° 55' W. He rounded this point a quarter of a mile from the reef which * These islands abound with land turtle, and probably have a good harbour. SEYCHELLE ARCHIPELAGO. 189 extends half a mile from the point. The southern extremity of these clangers Capt. Moresby observes, is fast rising into an island of greater extent than Alphonse ; when in lat. 7° li^' S. at noon, this isle bore true East, and the extent of the reef still farther South, so that between lat. 6° 59|' S. and 7° 20' S. dangerous reefs nearly unite North and South Alphonse ; there is a passage, but it is very intricate and dan- gerous, and tlie currents are strong and uncertain. The above-named officer, in March, 1822, remained two days under sail on the lee side of the island, whilst the people were on shore turning turtle. The mean of four other ships' observations, by O < * and chronometers, places this island in lat. 7° 4' S., Ion. 52° 49' E. About 4 leagues due South from Alphonse lies a sandy isle or bank already men- ^""''' '^' tioned, called South Alphonse, a little above water, with a reef of high breakers sur- Bankoruie. rounding it, and extending N. E. and S. W. 5 or 6 miles. There are no soundings within a mile of the sand. Captain Owen places the centre of Alphonse in lat. 7° 0^' S., Ion. 52° 48' E., and adopts the names of Bijoutier and St. Francis for the southern islands of the group, THE SEYCHELLE ARCHIPELAGO is an extensive group of islands, the f^'nt"" southern extremity of which is about 15 or 16 leagues to the northward of Alphonse. The principal islands of this Archipelago were explored in 174.3, by Lazarus Picault, and named after Mahe de la Bourdonnais, then governor of Mauritius. These are situated on the middle of a great bank of soundings, Mahe being the largest. The French have usually fed cattle on these islands, and they have colonized those of greatest value with slaves from Madagascar. The following particulars are extracted from the remarks communicated by G. Harrison, Esq. to the late Com- mander Barrow, of H. M.S. Rose, on his visit to the Seychelles, in March, 1837.* " The Archipelago of Seychelles consists of more than thirty islands: Mahe, and those in its vicinity are of primitive rock, with high land generally, and are well watered by innumerable small streams. f Several still possess a quantity of good timber, fit for ship building, and for other useful purposes. The more distant islands are com- posed of sand and coral, and are but a few feet above high-water mark — most of them afford a supply of water, but it is of a brackish taste, and is procured by making ex- cavations in the sand. The trees which grow on them are merely ht for fire- wood. The climate is considered healthy, particularly for children : and although the ther- mometer generally stands from 82° to 84° throughout the year, tlie heat in the day is seldom felt to be oppressive in the shade." " From May to November the S. E. trade wind prevails, at which season, vessels make their passage from hence to Mauritius in about twenty days on an average, and from Mauritius to Seychelles in seven days. During the other months, the winds are variable, principally, however, from S.W. and N.W. At this period, fourteen days is a common run from Mauritius to Mahe. Hurricanes are unknown, but from the beginning of December to the middle of April, the inhabitants do not like sending their vessels to Mauritius. It rains most during the months of October, November, December, and January. The tides rise about 6 feet." " The only fruits very common, are plantains and pine apples, though many other tropical fruits may occasionally be obtained ; but the Seychelles are most famed for the Cocos de Mer. Vegetables are scarce, the pumpkin and sweet potato being the * See Nautical Magazine for 1839, p. 443. f This has reference principally to Mah6. 190 SEYCHELLE ARCHIPELAGO. most common. Fish is plentiful, and only one kind poisonous, viz. tlie sardine or sprat. Tlie liawks-biil turtle are never eaten at Seychelles; they are, however, taken from May to tlie hitter end of October, and are extremely valuable, being the whole source of revenue to many families. The green turtle are common from November to April, and may be purchased for 12 or 14 shillings each. The land tortoise, which is brouglit from Aldabra, is a favourite article of food, but has become scarce. Beef sells at 4|f/. per lb. ; live pigs 3d. per lb. ; sheep, which were formerly cheap, are not now to be procured. Fowls generally a shilling each. Turkeys from 6 to 8 shillings each. Supplies for shipping are not abundant, but might become so if vessels fre- quently touched here." " Near the town, is a very good ship builder's yard. In the event of a vessel coming here to be repaired, I would recommend her bringing every thing but wood and workmen, the supply of marine stores, at this small place, not being always con- siderable." . Harbour and MAHE is about 16 mllcs long, and 5 broad. On its N. E. side there is a harbour, roa o .A ..he. gggy^g^j [jy j-gefs froui all winds ; and farther out is the road, sheltered from easterly and S. E. winds by the Island St. Anne and Cerf Island, but exposed to northerly winds. The best approach to the Road is to the northward of St. Anne Island, the north point of which may be rounded close, if necessary, but according to Capt. Owen's survey, the West side of the island is lined with a rocky bank to the distance of nearly a quarter of a mile off shore, which must be avoided. There is good an- chorage in 9 or 10 fathoms with St. Anne's Peak bearing E. ^ N., and the west point of Cerf Island S. ^ E., about half a mile off shore. A good leading mark for the entrance of the Port is. Beacon Island in one with the south end of St. Anne Island. To the northward of the road, there is a reef,* about 2 miles off the N. E. end of Seychelles, having a safe channel within it, of 18 and 20 fathoms water. St. Anne and the anchorage on the west side of it, is in lat. 4° 35' S., and that island is in Ion. 55° 35' E., by observations of Abbe Rochon. Mr. Russel, of H. M. ship Topaze, made the town of Mahe in Ion. 55° 31' E. by lunars, and in 55° 27' E., measured by three chronometers from Port Louis in a run of 15 days. Capt. Moresby, of H. M. ship Meuai, in 1821 and 1822, made the anchorage at Mahe m lat. 4° 35' S., Ion. 55° 33' E., by lunar observations agreeing with chronometers. Capt. Owen made St. Anne in Ion. 55° 33' E., or 1° 58^' West, from Cooper's Island, Port Louis, Mauritius. Tides. The flood sets about S. S.VV. and rises 6 feet ; high water at 3f hours on full and change of moon ; Variation 7" W. in 1821. The Island of Mahe is high, probably more than 2,000 feet above the sea, rising in most places nearly perpendicularly from it, and was inhabited in 1812 by about CO families, who cultivated cotton, made coco-nut oil, collected tortoiseshell, and built small vessels, such as brigs and schooners. t During the hurricane months at the Island of Mauritius, ships of war, in order to avoid these storms, are sometimes ordered to the Seychelles, as the hurricanes do not approach near to the equator. Capt. Moresby, who explored great part of the Seychelle Archipelago in 1821 and * According to Captain Owen's Survey, there is no danger near the position assigned to this reef, but the Jirisans, hereafter described. ore t The Seychelle Islands, since the late war, have belonged to Great Britain. SEYCHELLE ARCHIPELAGO. 191 1822, states, that Mahe abounds with wood, and may be seen 12 or 13 leagues; its captain eastern side is bordered by extensive reefs of coral, the openings of which opposite to r^atkl'!' St. Anne Island form the Port, which is capabh; of holding five or six large ships of war moored, with sufBcient room for small vessels. The anchorage between the coral reefs and St. Anne is excellent, with the centre of St. Anne bearing East three quarters of a mile, the town of Mahe W.S.W. in 8 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom. There are several coral patches between St. Anne and the entrance of the port, having less than 4 fathoms on some parts, which must be avoided by large ships. In the S.E. monsoon the wind never blows hard, and seldom strong. In the N.W. monsoon heavy gusts blow from the land, in which the wind varies : in this season, ships might conveniently lie between St. Anne and He Moyenne ; there is a good passage between these islands. A large ship has been known to come to the road of St. Anne between He Cerf and the main, but the passage is very intricate and dan- gerous. ■ During the S.E. monsoon, there is good anchorage on the western side of Mahe, but heavy gusts come over the high land, when the winds are moderate and steady on the eastern side. Water and wood may be procured either at St. Anne or Mahe : a large boat, loaded, cannot pass over the coral reefs when the tide is low. A supply of about 150 cattle could be obtained, also a large quantity of rice, and refreshments for the sick, excepting wine, in abundance, and at a moderate price. Mahe is without fortifications, but easy to defend from its precipitous hills and deep ravines ; nor could ships approach sufficiently near the town to fire eflectually, with- out entering the port, which is narrow and intricate. PRASLIN is a high island, N.E. 20 miles from Mahe, next to it in magnitude. Anchorage at and about equal in height. The anchorage is in a bay on the north side of the ^'''asiin. 'if- island, between the island of Curieuse and the main, having a depth of water from 5 to 12 fathoms. It is safe, and well protected from northerly winds by Curieuse Island, and it is sheltered also to the eastward by the neighbouring islets. Praslin (West Point) is in lat. 4° 17' S., about Ion. 55° 44' E., and the watering place is on the adjacent Island Curieuse : the tide rises 6 or 7 feet. On the hills, the trees are generally hard wood, and coco-nut trees are plentiful in many of the valleys. Thirty families inhabited Praslin in 1821, who prepared coco-nut oil, and cultivated cotton, by numerous slaves. The dangers between Mah6 and Praslin are as follows, from Capt. Moresby's Ob- Dangers be- servations. Northward of the anchorage of St. Anne, about 4 miles, the Brisans are ^"^^p^S^ situated, two rocks, which bear from each other S. E. ^ E. and N.W. ^ W. From the North Brisan, N. by W. f of a mile, there is a small coral patch with (> fathoms water on it. Between the Brisans and the Mamelles, the bottom is uneven, having from 7 to 13 and 15 fathoms at one cast. A musket shot W.N.W. of the Mamelles there is a rock with 6 feet on it, on which the sea generally breaks ; but when the weather is fine it is difficult to be seen : two ships' lengths from the Nortli point of the Mamelles, lies a sunken rock. Half-way between the Mamelles and Praslin are two dangerous rocks, called in Capt. Owen's Survey, Madge Rocks, covered in high tides, distant from each other between two and three cables' lengths N.E. and S.W. : in the S.E. monsoon, the sea usually breaks high, but when Capt. Moresby passed them within two cables' lengths, the southernmost appeared now and then above water, and the position of the northernmost was only indicated by the reflux of the water. The marks for these rocks are, the highest part of St. Aune on with the 192 SEYCHELLE ARCHIPELAGO. Mamelles ; South part of Dicjue Island bearing East ; Silhouette Island W. | S. From these rocks E. by N. ^ N., there is a bed of rocks called Trompeuse, from its beino- often mistaken for those last mentioned. N.E. of Trompeuse, mid-way iietween it and the N.W. point of Praslin Island, are two islands, called the Cousins; between the South Cousin and Trompeuse, the channel is intersected with dangers, which a ship cannot pass with safety ; but between the Cousins there is a safe channel, like- wise between the North Cousin and the reef that extends from Praslin. From the North Cousin N.W. 4 or 5 miles, lies a small dangerous rock called the Baleine, covered at high water. Capt. Moresby observes, that he searched for this rock but could not find it, not having any decisive marks ; it is, however, frequently seen, even with the water's edge at half tide. From the North Cousin W.N.W. distant 1| miles, lies a coral patch, having 2j, 3 and 4 fathoms, between which and the Baleine Capt. Moresby passed, steering for Booby Island (He aux Fous) leaving on the starboard hand a coral patch with 4 fathoms on it, about half-way between Booby Island and the N.W, part of Praslin. Having Booby Island and He Aride in one bearing N. f W. and S. f E. of each other, He Marianne being just open of He Curieuse, you may haul up with safety to anchor, or pass between Curieuse and Praslin. To the N.W. of the Mamelles, distant 1^ miles, there are several rocks. About 1|^ miles east of the rocks called the Chimnies, between the Isles of Mahe and Praslin, there are several rocks at the water's edge, on which the French frigate Regenerre was nearly lost; and to the N.E. of the Chimnies about \^ miles distant, lie several rocks under water. Silhouette. SILHOUETTE, (centre) in lat. 4° 29' S., Ion. 55° 17' E., is the highest of the Sey- chelle Islands, the next to Praslin in magnitude, and nearly circular. It is situated to the north-westward of Mahe, distant 3 or 4 leagues : it abounds with timber, and has five families residing on it ; the landing is difficult, from the surf which beats over the coral reefs. Most of the other islands in this archipelago are small, some of them very low, with extensive reefs about them. Bankofsound- The bank of soundings on which these three islands, and the adjacent small ones ings and islands ^,.g situatcd is lu leng-th N.W. and S.E. about 54 leagues, being of a triangular form, on It. o o ' o o ' with the acute angle to the S.E. The most easterly islands on the bank, are Fri- gate Isle, about 6 or 7 leagues south-eastward from Praslin, and the Three Sisters, Felicite, and Marianne Islands, 5 or 6 miles to the eastward of it. Captain Moresby thus describes the smaller islands on the Seychelle Banks : — Curieuse, the CURIEUSE is 3. Small island of moderate elevation, to the North of Praslin; the '*' '^' channel between them is from H to 2^ miles wide, affording excellent anchorage at all seasons of the year. A coral patch with 4 fathoms on it, is distant 1 mile from the S.E. end of Curieuse, and a detached rock bears N.W. from its N.E. end. Between Praslin and the Sisters, (Les Soeurs) the bottom is generally uneven from 6 to 25 fathoms, but there are safe channels between The Sisters and He Felicite : a bed of rocks extends from The Sisters southward, chiefly above water. He Ave Marie is a rock about half-way between Praslin and Felicite, having a shoal projecting S.W. from it about a cable's length. — There is a shoal spot about 2 miles N.W. of the Western Sister, and another 5 miles North of the same island — both given in the charts on the authority of M. Vailheu. SEYCHELLE ARCHIPELAGO. 193 DIGUE ISLAND is inhabited; it is surrounded by a reef, and the landing oiguc uund is difficult: between it and Praslin, in mid-channel, lie two dangerous rocks, Hangerl"*"' covered at half-tide, distant nearly a mile from each other, in a S.S.E. and N.N.W. direction. Around the southernmost rock, at a boat's length from it, Captain Moresby had G fathoms, and 9 and 12 fathoms at a ship's length : but he thinks a ship ought not to pass between these rocks till the space between them is better known. From the Round Island, united by a coral reef to the East end of Praslin, distant 2 or 3 miles S.S.W.,are two rocks above water, called the Keguins, bearing from each other about N.N.E. and S.S.VV., distant two or three cables' lengths ; the south point of Digue Island on with the south point of Mariane will lead to them. From Digue Island, five miles South, a little easterly, lies a bed of rocks, called the Chimnies, and W.N.W. of these, one mile, there is a dangerous rock covered at half-tide. FRIGATE ISLE, or ILE AUX FREGATES, in lat. 4° 32' S., Ion. 56° 0' E. Frigate Me. (lat. 4° 35' S., Ion. 56° 1' E. by Capt. Owen), is the easternmost of the Seychelle group, elevated 550 feet above the sea, about 2^ miles in length, having a rocky reef off its S.W. end, over which the sea breaks. This island is inhabited, and has an- chorage under its lee: ships running for St. Ann Roads in hazy weather will pass it before they see Mahe, and sometimes they may be as far as lie Recif before Mahu is seen. ILE RECIF, in lat. 4° 34' S., Ion. 55° 49' E., elevated about 150 feet, and iie Recir. 1^ miles in length, has a remarkable rock, like a building, on its summit, the resort of millions of birds, which make it appear white. With this rock bearing S.S.E. 1^ miles, the Menai anchored in 17 fathoms sand and shells. DENIS, or ORIXA, the north-easternmost island of the Archipelago, is in lat. Denis Mand. 3° 49' S., Ion. 55° 44' E. by the observations of Captain Tanner of the Bombay Marine, who passed close to it 28th July, 1821, in the Company's cruizer Antelope, and describes it as follows. This island is about 2^ or 3 miles in extent North and South, with several thatched habitations on its northern side; it is very lovv, covered with trees, and may be seen from a ship's deck about 4 leagues. A reef appeared to pro- ject from its southern end nearly a mile, with discoloured water beyond it ; and a coral bank or spit extends from it to the northward and westward nearly 3 miles, upon which we shoaled suddenly, and found 7, 6, and 5 fathoms, and there may be less water on some of the patches. In approaching from S.E. the soundings at 3 and 4 leagues distance are from 25 to 30 fathoms, sand, coral, and shells; and when the island bears from S.W. to South, you are off the spit that stretches out from its north- ern extreme. If you suddenly shoal under 10 fathoms in passing, immediately haul out to the northward or north-eastward. From 10 fathoms the soundings gradually deepen as you stand to the N.W., and the bank slopes down to 40 fathoms when the island disappears from the deck. As this island is near the north-eastern extremity of the great bank of soundings which circumscribes the Seychelle Archi- pelago, it is convenient for a ship to make, when proceeding by the southern passage for the Arabian Gulf, there being no danger in steering towards it in the niglit, if the lead is kept going, which will give timely warning of your approach to it in any direction. 2 c 194 SEYCHELLE ARCHIPELAGO AND AMIRANTE ISLANDS. bird Island. BIRD or SEA COW ISLAND, the northernmost of these islands, in lat. 3° 43' S.,lon. 55° 16' E., is a small, low sandy isle, with a few shrubs on it, and sur- rounded by a reef, about 1^^ miles in length. There is anchorage off it in moderate depths, the bottom rocky, mixed with sand. When this island was explored by the Eaiile cruizer from Bombay, in 1771, many sea lions, probably Manutees or large seals, were seen on the beach, with birds innumerable. A bank extends from the Soutii end, having 9 fathoms sand and coral at 6 miles distance from the island. L'Hirondelle, French privateer, with 180 people on board, was lost on it, having sailed the preceding day from Mahe, to cruize in the Red Sea. They procured water by sinking a pit in the sand, remained there 22 days, and part of them got to JMahe on a raft. French Shoal. FRENCH SHOAL, on which a French ship is said to have been lost, was twice passed over in 1824, by Capt. M'Lean, of the Swan southern whaler, belonging to Messrs. Enderby, who describes it to be a dangerous shoal, about 5 or 6 miles in extent, with depths of 9, 5, and 3 fathoms, the least water found on it, over a bottom of coral rock. This shoal was found to be in about lat. 3° 55' to 4° 1' S., Ion. 54° 42' E., 10 or 12 leagues to the westward of the meridian of Bird Island, and it is a little within the verge of soundings on the great bank that surrounds the Seychelle Islands. On the Admiralty Chart this Shoal is placed in lat. 4° 0' S., Ion. 54° 32' E., and there is also another shoal spot near the edge of the bank, given on the authority of M. Dupont, with 3^ fathoms on it, in lat. 4° 15' S., Ion. 54° 23' E. On the extensive bank which surrounds the Seychelle Islands, the depths are generally from 14 to 40, or 45 fathoms, but there is less water on some parts of it, particularly at the eastern and western extremities. About (J or 7 leagues East, and E.S.E. from Frigate Island, the soundings are from 8, to 10 or 12 fathoms coral, on an extensive part of the bank. The Mary had 10 and 1 1 fathoms on the south- eastern part, and West from the Island of Mahe 18 leagues, she had 11 fathoms rocky bottom. There are some shoal patches on the western edge of the bank as already described. The brig Zoroaster is said to have passed over a coral bank in lat. 5° S., Ion. 56° 40' E., the least water 7 fathoms, but there was apparently less water on some of the coral patches at a small distance. The south-western group of the Seychelles, called the AMIRANTE ISLANDS, consists of several detached small islands, coral reefs, and banks. The Amirantes differ little from each other, being generally from 1^ to 2^ miles in length, situated on coral banks, and seldom exceeding 20 or 25 feet in height; but they are crowned Mith trees, rising 24 or 25 feet above the land, and coco-nut trees, cul- tivated by slaves from IVIahe, will soon be abundant. By digging 12 or 14 feet, water may geneially be obtained. Calms, and uncertain currents, with the want of good anchorage, make it desirable not to approach these islands in large ships, unless obliged by necessity. Eagle Island. EAGLE ISLAND was examined in 1771, by the Eagle cruizer, and is a low sandy island, about li or 2 miles round, covered with shrubs, and encompassed by a chain of reefs to the northward and eastward, at the distance of 2 and 3 miles from the shore, on which the sea breaks very high. Between these reefs and the island there is a channel, with soundings in it from 9 to 14 fathoms. This island, called by Shoal. Amirante Islands. AMIRANTE ISLANDS. 195 the French, Remire, is in lat. 5° 8' S., Ion. 53° 22^ E. ; there is no fresh water on it. The tide rises about 9 feet, high water at 3^ hours, on full and change of the moon. Tides. Lieut. Russell, R. N., who observed on this island in 1820, gives the Ion. 53° 21' S. — the high water at 5h. 40m. with a rise of 6 feet, and the Variation 7° 30' W. AFRICAN ISLANDS,* two in number, are very small and low, about African ii. leagues northward of the bank which surrounds the Amirante Islands, and were dis- '""'''■ covered about 1795, by some of the small French vessels which belong to, and navi- gate in these parts. Captain Adams, of H. M. S. Sybille, examined them in 1801, and found a few shrubs on them. They are almost overflowed at high spring tides, and abound with turtle and aquatic birds, but are destitute of fresh water. The largest island is the southernmost, joined to the other by a sand bank, which is dry at low water, spring tides; their length from North to South is not above two miles. On the east side of them is a reef of breakers, and on the west side there is safe and commodious anchorage in a bay, formed by the extremes of the isles and the reef which joins them. Observations taken on the southern island made it in lat. 4° 55' S., Ion. 54° 9^' E., by stars on each side of the moon. But Lieutenant Hay, of Position. the Menai, in 1821, observed on the North island, and made it in lat. 4° 50^' S., Ion. 53° 27^' E., allowing Eagle Island to be in Ion. 53° 22^' E. ; so that the p"osition of these islands, and of others on the southern part of the bank, seem all to have been placed too far to the eastward by former navigators. f Variation 8° W. in 1821. The tides rise about 8 feet, high water at 9 hours .39 minutes, on full and change of moon. Tides. These islands lie about (J leagues to the northward of Remire, or Eagle Island ; and 4 miles N.W. by N. from the latter there is said to be a reef; also, a bank extends 4 or 5 miles from the south end of the African Islands, with 5 to 9 fathoms on it ; but there is a safe channel between them and the others which lie to the southward. The Mary passed through this channel 17th December, 1694, and afterwards steered to the eastward, between the Seychelle Islands and the small isles on the south part of the bank, without perceiving any danger. ILE DE NEUF (Isle Nine), in lat. 6° 13^' S., is the southernmost of the Ami- iickNcui; rante Islands, very small, and covered with bushes. MARIE LOUISE ISLAND, "^^21"'' 7 miles E. N. E. from He de Neuf, is also woody and small, surrounded by a reef, on which there is a quarter less 4 fathoms, 2 miles West from the island. Captain Moresby passed in the Menai, between these islands, in soundings of 12, 15, and 17 fathoms, and continued the latter depth steering N. E. 3 miles. ILE BOUDEUSE, in lat. 6° 11' S., Ion. 52° 55' E., is on the western ex- lie Boudeuse. tremity of the Amirante Bank, and, like the two islands last described, is small, crowned with wood ; they are all surrounded by coral reefs, excepting a tew narrow openings. Ships should use a chain if they anchor among these islands ; the wliite sandy bottom may be distinguished by the coral patches, when in 12 to 15 fathoms water. * His Majesty's schooner Spitfire was UTecked on the reef at the southern part of these islands, 21st August, 1801. Lieutenant Campbell, the commander, with four men, left the Isles in a small boat on the 27th, saw Silhouette 29th, reached it' the 31st, and got a supply of water and coco-nuts ; he then left this island, and reached Mahe Roads, 2nd September, where he found the Sybille frigate. Captain Adams, who proceeded immediately to the African Islands for the remainder of the Spitfire's crew. t Capt. Owen places the North Island in lat. 4° 53J' S., Ion. 53° 33' E. 2 c 2 196 AMIRANTE ISLANDS. He L'EloIle. lies Poi»re. He de Roches. ILE L'ETOILE (Star Island), in lat. 5° 57' S., and bearing N. ^ E. from Marie Louise, is about U miles in length, low, and covered with bushes ; the surrounding reef projects to the southward about a mile, and to the N. N.VV. of the Isle there is a bank with breakers on it. ILES POIVRE, in lat. 5° 43' S., Ion. 53° 20' E., are two small islands within a mile of each other in an East and West direction, bearing N. by E. f E. from He Marie Louise. Reefs extend around them to a consideral)le distance, and 7 or 8 miles to the northward there is a bank dry at low water. ILE DE ROCHES, in lat. 5° 41' S., Ion. 53° 42' E., or 22 miles East of Poivre, has a bank extending around it about 4 leagues to the North or N.W., and 2 leagues to tlie East, with only 2^ fathoms on it in this part, and mostly from 5 to 13 fathoms to the north-westward ; but in a southerly direction, the bank extends only a small distance from the Isle. lie St. Joseph. ILE ST, JOSEPH, in lat. 5° 27' S., and 4 or 5 miles East of He de Ros, accord- ing to the observations of Mr. Russell, of H. M. S. Topaze, who explored most of these islands in a small vessel, while the frigate lay at Mahe during the Mauritius hurri- cane months ; and the descriptions and positions here given of the Amirante Islands, and most of the others of this archipelago, are from the late observations of Mr. Russell, or Captain Moresby, which correspond with each other, but differ much from the positions assigned to them by the French. nedeRos. ILE DE ROS, in lat. 5° 24' S., is nearly on the meridian of Eagle Island, by Mr. Russell's observations. To the northward of it about 3 miles, is the southern extremity of a shoal bank, marked with 2 fathoms in that part, from thence stretching nearly to Eagle Island, with soundings of 4 to 9 fathoms. When He de Ros bore S.E. 12 miles. Lieutenant Hay found 4| fathoms rocky bottom, then steered N. by \V. 3 miles, and was off the bank. Sand banks and coral reefs extend far West of St. Joseph, making the channel between that island and He de Ros narrow and dangerous. He Plane. ILE PLATTE is in lat. 5° 48|' S., Ion. 55° 27' E., by Captain Moresby's chrono- meters and observations, of 30th March, 1822; he left Mahe on the preceding day, and in passing 3 miles to the eastward of it, had no bottom with 100 fathoms ; but off its S.W. end a bank extends 4 or 5 leagues, having from 5 to 12 fathoms, sand and coral. From the north part of the island, a reef extends W. N.W. 4 or 5 miles, and also 1 mile E. S, E. from the north point. This island is composed of coral, and is about a mile in length. Mr. Russell places this island in lat. 5° 50^' S., Ion. 55° 20' E. CcBtivy Island. CCETIVY ISLAND, discovered July .3d, 1771, by the Chevalier De Ccetivy, is low and sandy, extending about S.W. by S. and N. E. by N. 8 miles, having off the North and N.W. points, in the S. E. monsoon, anchorage on a bank of sand stretching half a mile from the shore, in 7 to 17 fathoms. Captain Moresby touched here in H.M.S. Menai, in April, 1822, and found abundance of turtle; water may be procured close to the anchorage. The reef extends far to the southward. By Capt. Moresby's observations and chronometers, the north end of the island is in lat. 7° 6' S., Ion. 56° 16i' E. Capt. Owen makes the centre in lat. 7° 9' S., Ion. 56° 18|' E. ISLANDS AND BANKS NEAR THE SEYCHELLES, 197 The Lord Eldon and Carmarthen, 10th October, 1808, made the island, probably the south end, in lat. 7° 19' S., Ion. 56° 20' E. ; and the Sir Stephen Liisliington, in 1811, made it in lat. 7° 14' S., Ion. 56° 32' E., by chronometers. Variation 9° 2' W. in 1822. Captain Malfie carried on a manufactory of coco-nut oil here in 1811. ADELAIDE BANK, very little known, is thought to be situated about 15 Adelaide and leagues N.E. from the above island; and in lat. 6° 9' S., N.N.W. 6 or 7 leagues Success Banks. from Adelaide Bank, SUCCESS BANK, is said to be in Ion. 56° 40' E. Captain Moresby thinks these banks unite on the meridian of 56° 35' E., between lat. 5° 10' and 5° 40' S., and that they are a continuation of the Grand Mahe Bank. FORTUNE BANK, named by Kerguelen, after his vessel, in which he left Fortune Bank. Mauritius, 13th September, 1771, made a North course corrected from thence, and at 1 A.M., 19th, had ground with 30 fathoms, next cast only 19 fathoms, rocky. He stood on the other tack under a foresail, until the anciior was ready, and shoaled to 17, 15, and 14 fathoms sand, then anchored, being apprehensive of driving upon some sand bank. The multitude of sharks about them made the sea luminous like breakers; of these they caught above 50, and a great quantity of crabs, with which the sea was covered. When day-light appeared, no danger was discernible. On weighing, he let the vessel drive, and continued sounding; for a long time they had 14 fathoms, then 20, 25, and 28; and at once no ground. Kerguelen states it to be in lat. 7° 16' S., lying N.W.and S.E., but does not mention its extent; according to M. D'Apres, it is 3 leagues. This bank was discovered 31st May, 1770, by the Verelst, Captain Compton ; who Captain Comp. observed on the 30th in lat. 7° 24' S., and thought they were then on the bank, but l^n'^fX"''" did not sound till about 3 quarters before 1 p.m., when he had 15 fathoms coral rock, tank. then 14 fathoms several casts. The weather was fine and clear, with a smooth sea, could see no appearance of shoal water or breakers from the mast-head. Steered N.E. \ E., going about 4 knots, and had shoaled to 12 fathoms by 1^ p.m. ; con- tinued that depth till 2 p.m., then deepened to 14 fathoms a few casts, and shoaled again to 12 fathoms. From 1\ to 3 p.m. had 11 fathoms very regular, from 3 to 3^ p.m. had 10^ fathoms very regular, then as fast as the line could be passed along, no ground at 20, 50, and 100 fathoms. Though the N.E. edge be steep, it is supposed the S.W. part shoals gradually, as some of the people had observed the water dis- coloured, as early as 10 a.m. the preceding day. They found the N.E. end of the bank to be in lat. 7° ll'S. Lnmediately after losing soundings, the sea regained its proper colour, with the usual swell. Numbers of ground sharks were seen during the time they were on the bank. The Surat Castle, on her passage from Mauritius to Madras, crossed over this The Surat bank 22nd February, 1789. The first cast of the lead was 15 fathoms irregular, and s^geoveJ'Jh'e in running over the bank from 15 to 10 fathoms, the least water, coral rocks and bank. coloured shells. An appearance of breakers was seen on the western edge with strong ripplings round it. By lunar observations taken in this ship, the bank was found to be in Ion. 57°38'E. The Sir Stephen Lushington, in January, 1811, after pa.ssing the Island Ccetivy, TheSirSie. next day got upon Fortune Bank, and carried soundings of 10 to 12 fathoms, steering f^''^ " J;"stge^' East 7 miles; coral rock and sand were plainly visible under the ship, and as far as over the bank. could be seen from the mast-head to the northward and southward. At noon had 38 fathoms, and soon after no ground ; by observations taken on the bank, it was found 198 BANKS AND DANGERS NEAR THE SEYCHELLES. The Aber- irombic Uobin- son's passage over the bank. lloquepcz. Swift Bank. Rose Galley Kocks. Passage be- tween the Seychelles and Chagos Archi. pelago. The London's passage. to be in lat. 7° T S., Ion. 57° 4' E., or 31 miles East of the Island Ccetivy by chrono- meters. This would place it in Ion. 56° 47^' E., by adopting Captain Moresby's lon"itiide of Ccetivy. The Company's ship Abercrombie Robinson, Captain J. Innes, April 12th, 1830, carried regular soundings from 10 fathoms, the least depth, to 17 fathoms water, steering N. by E. about 5 or 6 miles over the N.W. edge of the bank, supposed, which part was found to be in lat. 7° 6' S., Ion. 56° 31' E. by lunar observa- tions, and in 50° 49^' E. by mean of chronometers. About 45 leagues north-north-eastward from Fortune Bank, in about lat. 5° 12' S., there is another bank according to the French, with soundings on it from 13 to 31 fathoms. ROQUEPEZ, a low sandy island, is thought to lie in lat. 6° 24' S., about Ion. 60° E. ; but if it exist, is probably the Sandy Isle, with breakers extending about 3 miles from it, said to have been seen in the Bridgewater at 10 a.m., the 6th December, 1812, then distant 6 or 7 miles, and situated in lat. 6° 27' S., Ion. 60° 4' E. (its south- ern extremity), may perhaps be the doubtful Island Roquepez. SWIFT BANK, from the journal of the vessel of this name, who passed over it going from Mauritius to Ceylon, in 1744, Mr. Dalrymple places from lat. 5° 17' to 4° .35' S., Ion. 61° 5' to 61° 30' E. The soundings found on it were from 18 to 35 fathoms. ROSE GALLEY ROCKS, said to be a ledge of rocks and breakers, seen by Captain Gentleman, in the Rose Galley, going from Madras to Bombay in 1746 ; since which time, they appear never to have been seen, rendering their existence doubtful. This danger is said to be in lat. 5° 30' S., and thought to be nearly on the meridian of the N.E. end of Swift Bank, or about 61° 33' E. The run from Madras places the Rose Galley Rocks in about Ion, 61° 52' E. This danger, said to have been seen in the Rose Galley, is thought to be the most easterly of those in the vicinity of the Mahe Archipelago, between which and the western limit of the Chagos Archipelago there is a space of above 8° in longitude, considered free from shoals or islands, which is frequented by ships from the Eastern parts of India going the Southern Passage to Bombay, and was formerly used by ships in early times, proceeding from Bombay to England. This route is now seldom frequented by homeward-bound ships, although it appears eligible when the northerly and N.W. winds may be expected between the equator and Mauritius, in December and January. In 1796, the London proceeded by this passage. January 29th, she was in lat. .'^° N., Ion. 674° E., got the winds then at West and S. Westward, afterwards at N.W. until in lat. 1° S., Ion. 68° E., on the 2nd February. From hence, brisk winds, between W.S.W. and W.N.W., continued till in lat. 12° S., Ion. 75° E., on the 7th; then veered to North, where they kept till she reached lat. 21° S., Ion, 75° E., on the 10th ; had then light N,W, winds one day, and got the trade at S.S.E. on the 12th in lat. 22° S. In 23° S. it veered to E.S.E. In 24^° S., Ion. 62° E., had strong N.N.W. gales two days, then S.W. and southerly winds three days more. On the 21st February, in lat. 25^° S., Ion. 59° E., had a return of south-easterly winds. 199 CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. Principally from the Nautical Directions of Captain R. Moresby, of THE Indian Navy. THE CHAGOS ISLANDS AND BANKS were very imperfectly known, cimgos Archi- until Captain Archibald Blair, then a Lieutenant of the Bombay Marine, surveyed p'^'^s"- them in 1786. They formerly had the general name of Basses de Chagos, from the largest island which forms the southern limit of the whole, called Chagos Island, or Diego Garcia. These were formerly placed on the charts as separate islands, and Diego Garcia generally laid down about 2^° to the westward of Chagos, but it is now well ascertained, that they are one and the same island.* This group was minutely surveyed by Captain Moresby, of the Indian Navy, in 1837, in H. C. Surveying ship Benares, accompanied by H. C. schooner Royal Tiger, according to whose survey the Chagos Islands and Banks extend from the south part of Centurion Bank, in lat. 7° 39' S., to the north end of Speaker's Bank, in lat. 4° 44' S., between the meridians of 70° 50' and 72° 50' E. longitude. "The liberal means placed at ray disposal," observes Captain Moresby, "enabled us to go over a great deal of ground, and to ascertain the limits of the great bank occupying the whole space between the outer islands, which bank I have named the Great Chagos Bank, the outer edge of which is dangerous for ships, having, in some parts only 4 fathoms, and seldom more than 6 or 7. When over the edge the sound- ings suddenly deepen to 30 and 45 fathoms, with here and there patches of 8 and (i fathoms. As a caution to navigators, I would advise them not to pass over this bank, except in a case of necessity, and then only in the day-time. Should a ship, in the vicinity of these islands, be in want of stock, water, and wood, it can easily be pro- cured, without passing over or near this bank, by visiting either Peros Banhos or Diego Garcia, both of which lie without the bank, and afford every facility for vessels touching there. Pigs and poultry may be obtained in abundance, either from the overseers or the negro apprentices belonging to the establishments." DIEGO GARCIA, or GREAT CHAGOS ISLAND, extends from lat. Di.go caaLi. 7° \^' S., to 7° 26^' S., and its centre is in Ion. 72° 30' E. ; its length from North to South being about 14 or 15 miles, and the general breadth from 3 to 4 miles, having the form of a crescent, with the convex side to the eastward. This remarkable island may be considered as a steep coral wall standing in the ocean, for the whole interior of the island is a lagoon or natural harbour, nearly of the same length and breadth as the island itself, as there is no part of the circumjacent wall above half a mile broad, and the greater part of the eastern side is only about one tenth of a mile in breadth. This island, or rather contour of an island, is low, generally 8 or 10 feet above the sea at high tides, but inundations of the sea appear to have pervaded the * Ady and Candy, and the London Bank, have no real existence. 200 CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. Entrance of tlie harbour of Diego Garcia. Supplies and productions. Periodical winds and currents. Instructions for sailing to- wards the Island. wall in some places, and imparted their waters to those in the harbour. Although low, the island is covered with tall coco-trees, which make it visible 5 or 6 leagues at sea. A steep coral reef fronts the sea all round, on which it breaks very high, and renders the landing on the exterior impracticable. This reef is steep to, in most places, tiiere being no anchorage for a ship on the outside of the island, except in the entrance of the harbour at the N.W. end. The points which form the entrance are called by Captain Blair, the East and West points ; between them are three islands, called East, Middle, and West Islands, the last mentioned lying near the West point of the main island, and the two former nearest the East point. West Point and Island are joined by a reef dry at low water, and Middle and East Islands are situated on the edge of an extensive coral bank, which projects from them about 2 miles to the southward into the harbour; several parts of it are dry at low water, with dangerous patches of 1|- and 2 fathoms coral in other places. The same coral bank extends to the East point, which renders the passage between it and either of these islands unsafe, except for very small vessels. It appears, however, that M. la Fontaine went into the harbour in 1770, betwixt East Island and East Point, where 4j fathoms is marked on his plan of the Island Diego Garcia; but Captain Blair, in 1786, found only 2 and 2^ fathoms in the same place; and the ship Hamp- shire, of Bombay, was wrecked, about 1793, in attempting to enter by this dangerous and shoal passage. The only safe channel into the harbour is between West Island and the sand pro- jecting from Middle Island above half a mile to the S.W., leaving a channel, near a mile wide, between it and West Island, which is safe to approach on the N.W. and N.E. sides. There are no soundings until a ship is close to the entrance, the water then shoals suddenly, from 100 fathoms, no ground, to 20, 10, and 7 fathoms. The French used to keep a small settlement on this island, consisting of slaves and a few Europeans, who prepared coco-nut oil and salt fish, for small vessels whicii came annually from Mauritius. A variety of fish abound in the harbour, and excellent green turtle visit the shores on the outside of the island ; the land crabs, which feed on the coco-nuts as they fall from the trees, are also wholesome food ; and good fresh water may be had in almost every part of the island, by digging eight or ten feet deep. The S.E. winds prevail here from April to November, but are strongest in June, July, August, and part of September, during which time the current generally sets between West and N.W., from 12 to 20 miles daily. In March and April the winds are often very variable and light ; October and November are also changeable months, but more unsettled and more squally than the former. In December and January, the N.W. winds prevail almost constantly, producing a current to the S. Eastward. A ship proceeding by the southern passage for Bombay, and desirous of getting a sight of Diego Garcia, should keep in about lat. 7° 30' to 7° 35' S., when approaching its meridian, and pass to the southward of the island if the wind is favourable. If she intend to stop for a supply of water, or other refreshments requisite for a scorbutic crew, she ought to steer for the N.E. part of the island, keeping in the parallel of 7° 18' S. When the S.E. winds blow strong, with hard squalls, much rain, and cloudy weather in July, August, and part of September, she must guard against the currents setting generally to the north-westward, as she might be carried to the northward of the island, if observations were not obtained. The shore being free from projecting shoals, she may, in the day, run for it without danger, if the weather be not so thick, as to prevent land from being seen at the dis- CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. 201 tanceof 2 or 3 miles. The island being low, antl sometimes enveloped by a cloud in the night, great caution is requisite in running for it at such times ; nor should it lie approached in a dark night.* Running for it in a clear night, or in the day with thick weather, when near its To approach position, a ship should be kept under such sail as sl)e can bear on a wind ; and if tlie wiomIic s.'^e'. island is seen, her head ouglit immediately to be laid to the N. l'2astward olf shore, if munsuon. it is night; and it may be prudent to ply to windward till morning, to prevent being carried to leeward by the current. In the day, she siiould steer along l)y the ]\.E. point boldly, passing close on the north side of East and iMidille Islands, and round the spit that extends near a mile to the westward of llie latter, as close as consistent with safety, to enable her to fetch higher up the harbour. In clear weather, the To enter the dangers are always visible from the mast-head ; an oHicer stationed there to look out is the safest guide. Care must be taken, in working up, not to stand fartlier west- ward than to bring West Island North, that the shoals in the bight to the southward of this island may be avoided ; nor too much to the eastward, that the extensive bank and shoals to the southward of Middle Island may also be avoided. Entering the channel during S.E. winds, it is proper to keep near to tlie sand projecting from Middle Island to the westward, which has Hh and G fatlioms close to its western point: by keeping this close a-board, a ship may fetch into good anchorage Anchorage. ground without tacking, with West Island bearing N. ^ W. ; but attention is requisite, not to stand to the westward of the meridian of this island, on account of the shoal in the bight. This part of the harbour, to the southward of the entrance, is the safest wiien the N. Westers blow, and equally secure with any other part in the south-easters. Its vicinity to the sea, and the facility with which ships may be brought in or carried out, make it preferable to any other part of this capacious harbour; and if necessary, ships may be warped between the shoal patches, within 500 yards of the shore. The anchorage at this part is generally sandy clay, with bits of coral in some places, and there is good water found in digging on this IN.W. part of the island, abreast tiie Waier. anchorage. In the channels between the coral banks, which are interspersed through the har- Harbour bour of Diego Garcia, the bottom is generally fme white san(i, mixed in many places <^i''>""'''^- with coral, which makes it prudent to anchor with a chain, or to have good ground service on the cables. About half-way up the harbour it is contracted by a large ilat projecting from the western shore, and several coral jjatches in the channel make it in this part intricate for large ships, should they be inclined to proceed so higii up. To the southward of this intricate channel, on the east side of the harbour, there is good anchorage beyond the point that projects from the eastern shore. In the upper part of the harbour, tiie depths are from 5 to 10 and 11 fatlioms, and between the entrance and middle part of it, from 7 or 8, to 10 or 18 fathoms, e.vcept * The Atlas was wrecked on the S. E. side of the island, about half an hour before daylight, May 30th, 1786, in -which vessel I was at the time. The Charts on board were very erroneous in the delineation of the Chagos Islands and Banks ; and the commander, trusting too much to dead reckoning, was steering with con- fidence to make Ady or Candy (which do not exist) for a new departure, being in their longitude nearly by account, and bound to Ceylon ; but, unfortunately, a cloud over Diego Garcia prevented the helmsman from discerning it (the officer of the watch being asleep) till we were on the reefs close to the shore ; the masts, rudder, and every thing above deck, went with the first surge ; the second lifted the vessel over the outer rocks, and threw her in toward the beach, it being high water, and the vessel in ballast ; otherwise she must have been dashed in pieces by two or three surfs on the outer part of the reef, and every person on board have perished. We had been set 4° to the westward of account, in the passage from Bencoolen of 20 days. '2 D 202 CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO, Capt. Mores- by's directions tor Diego Garcia. Tide?. Water and wood. near the shores, or on the coral patches or flats ; the depths on these are from 1 to 3 fatlioms. If a ship is obliged to anchor at the entrance of the harbour, on the outside, it should be with the channel open, for the wind has been known at times in the S.E. monsoon, to veer to the N.VV., and blow from this quarter, a short time in squalls. The following directions for the harbour are from Captain Moresby : — "The tides rise and fall from 5 to 6| feet, running into the harbour S.S.E., and out of it N.N.W. It is high water at Ih. 30m. full and change ; the spring tides in the entrance of the channel run about 2 knots, and unless a vessel has a fair wind or a good slant, she would find it impossible to work into the anchorage against the tide. During the S.E. trade, which blows directly out of the harbour, it is advisable to make the island from the eastward, and so time her arrival off the entrance of the channel, as to have the tide in her favour to enter, when she can easily work in, as the channel is a mile broad, taking care not to approach too near the reef which extends to the westward from Middle Island, and which reef is very deceptive, having some shoal patches of coral off its western extreme, not easily discernible. The western island is steep, and can be safely approached ; w hen inside the channel, the only care required is to have a look-out at the mast-head, to avoid the coral patches, a few of which are in the centre of the bay, having 3 and 2^ fathoms on them. Care must be taken not, to stand too close over to the islands bounding the eastern side of the channel, as there are several coral knolls off this part. A coral band, dry at low water, surrounds the inner part of the island, extending from 100 to 200 yards off shore — this is easily seen. The best anchorage for a ship during the S.E. trade is at Minni Minny Establishment, which bears from the centre of Middle Island S. 29° E. 7 miles. At this place, a ship anchors with the houses bearing S.E. or E.S.E., distant one-third of a mile, and one quarter of a mile off the shore reef in 10 fathoms sand, the water perfectly smooth, and boats able to land on the beach at low water. The fresh water, in wells, is close to the beach, and very excellent ; fire-wood also may be readily cut. In the N.W. monsoon, the rainy season, this anchorage is rather a lee-shore, and a chopping sea renders landing at times unpleasant. Vessels ought, in this season, which is from the middle or beginning of December to the beginning or end of April, to anchor on the west side of the bay, under the lee of the land near Point Marianne Establishment, which bears from the centre of Middle Island S. by E. Similes. A shoal bank of sand and coral extends off Point Marianne 3 quarters of a mile into the bay, close to the edge of which, a ship may anchor in 8 to 10 fathoms, soft sand. Point Marianne and the Establishment are known by some high trees of the fir species. Variation (1837) 2° 20' W." From October to February, when westerly and northerly winds may be generally expected, a ship from Bombay, intending to stop at this island, should pass to the westward of the Maldivas and Chagos Banks, and steer eastward for it, keeping in its parallel. An earthquake, in 1812, is said to have torn asunder one of the small isles at the entrance of the harbour. Great Chagos Bank. "THE GREAT CHAGOS BANK, of which Blair's Bank," as mentioned in the former edition of this work, " is only a part, occupies the centre of the Chagos Archi- pelago. The S.E. point of this bank is nearly North from Diego Garcia, 32 miles, and in lat. 6° 42' S., Ion. 72° 29' E. ; it then takes a direction N. 30° E. 39 miles, to its eastern boundary, which is in lat. 6° 8' S., Ion. 72° 50' E. Between these two CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. 203 points it curves to the West 5 miles ; from the eastern boundary the bank continues to the N. by W. 29 miles, in lat. 5° 40' S. ; it then runs West 35 miles, which is the northern and eastern edge of it. On this part lies the island I have called Nelson Island, in lat. 5° 41', and Ion. 72° 22' E. The N.W. point of the Great Chagos Bank is in lat. 5° 49' S., and Ion. 71° 39' E. ; it then takes a direction to the S. by W. 18 miles, to the North Brother Island ; it still continues further to the West, from 10 to 17 miles, and on its western edge lie the Eagle and Danger Islands, the former in lat. 6° 11' S., Ion. 71° 23' E., the latter in lat. G° 23' S., Ion. 71° 18' E. The bank then takes a sudden turn to the E.S.E. about 70 miles, passing to the northward of the Six Islands, leaving a channel of 5 miles in breadth. The soundings on the edge of this bank are from 4 to 10 fathoms, sand and coral rock ; the shoal water on its edges is not very broad. I consider it very dangerous; for, though the surveying vessels never found less water than 4 and 4^ fathoms, a ship would do wrong to proceed over it without a good look-out, or adopting some of the channels which lead in. On some parts of the verge of this bank not less than 7 and 8 fathoms are to be found : when inside the bank, the soundings deepen to 40 and 45 fathoms soft clay. Several coral patches, with 7 and 8 tiithoms on them, will be found in the interior of the bank — there are capital spots to anchor on. Fish, such as sharks and some red rock tish, are in abundance." .. PITT BANK* is to the S.W. of the Great Chagos Bank, about 17 miles ; between Pitt Bank. them there is a clear channel. The Six Islands are on the northern side of this Six islands. channel: this bank is of an oblong shape, placed N.W. and S.E., near 30 miles long, by 17 broad : its southern extreme is in lat. 7° 17' S., and Ion. 71° 30' E., the northern extreme in lat. 6° 49' S., and Ion. 71° 15' 30" E., and bears from the centre of the Six Islands S. 42° W., distant 13j miles, between which and the bank is a good channel." " The trees on the Six Islands are just discernible from the poop of a ship, on the northern end of the bank. This bank is dangerous on the northern and eastern sides ; on some parts of this boundary we found 6 and 4 fathoms — there may be less; on the centre of the bank the soundings are deeper, from 17 to 20, and 24 fathoms, soft bottom; like the Great Chagos Bank, it is steep all round. Close off the South end of this bank we had no soundings at 200 fathoms, yet at two miles distant we obtained deep soundings on another bank, extending to the S.E. about 18 miles, on which we had from 110 to 135 fathoms, sand and shells. Pitt's Bank ought to be avoided by navigators, more especially at night; yet in the day- time it may be passed over, if a good look-out is kept, and the shoal patches avoided. There is good anchorage on the bank." " GANGES BANK appears to be a discovery by the ship of this name, 12th Ganges Bank. March, 1817. It is a small bank to the S.W. of Pitt Bank, 15 miles; its centre is in lat. 7° 22' S., and Ion. 71° 8^' E. ; it is from 3 to 4 miles in extent ; least water 8 fathoms, and 12 fathoms in the centre. There are no soundings near the bank at 200 fathoms." CENTURION BANK was discovered in 1803, by the squadron under Admiral cemurion Bank. * The Pitt passed over it in 1763. 2d2 204 CIIAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. (Hnn Bank. Six Islands. Current and tides. Produce and supplies. Danger Island. Uainier, proceeding to Bombay by the southern passage. It is to the S.W. of the (Jau-'os 18 miles; between them are no soundings; the least water on this bank is 7 fathoms, on the N.E. edge, where we observed the heavy rollers breaking at times ; and wliere two of our boats were in danger of being swamped. We anchored on the centre of it in 14 fathoms ; it is from .3 to 4 miles in extent, and in lat. 7° 37' S., and Ion. 70° 57' E. There are no soundings close to the bank." OWEN BANK,* situated to the westward of Diego Garcia, and considerably to the westward of Pitt Bank, and to the N.W. of Centurion Bank, was dis- covered iOth November, 1811, l)y Capt. W. Owen, R.N., when giving convoy to some transports from Batavia towards Bombay. He accidentally saw the bottom, and carried soundings of 19 and 20 fathoms for half an hour on the bank, although the other ships had no sountlings : they were then in lat. 6° 461' S., Ion. 70° 12' E. by chronometer, from Diego Garcia in three days, and he observes, that the bank may be of con.^-iderable extent, as they probably were on it some time before it was perceived. " SIX ISLANDS, or EGMONT ISLANDS,! bearing from Diego Garcia N. 62° W., distant 69 miles. One of the largest islands of the group, on which the pro- prietor had built his magazines and establishment for coco-nut oil, is the south -eastern- most island ; it is in lat. G° 40' S., and Ion. 71° 26^' E. From this, five other islands lie on the circular edge of a coral reef, extending to the N.W. by W. 5 miles; the northern islands have conspicuous trees on them ; there are no channels between the islands, nor soundings close to the reef, which is of an oval shape, having a lagoon in its centre, and depth of water in it from 8 to 12 fathoms; it is full of coral knolls. There is a wide channel leading into this lagoon on the north side of the circle ; but only small vessels can enter, as 2 fathoms is the greatest depth of water on the edge of the reef. We found no coral bank extending ofl'the S.W. The reef is steep close to the breakers. The current and tides sometimes wash the loose sand off the reef to leeward, and discolour the blue vpater for half a mile, which we took to be shoal water fit for anchorage, until we found we were deceived. These islands produce 6,000 gallons of oil yearly; pigs and poultry in abundance; also pigeons, and the fat tail land crabs, which are numerous. Fresh water is also easily procured : but should a vessel be in want of supplies, Diego Garcia, or Peros Banhos, or Eagle Island, are more convenient for anchoring and landing." " DANGER ISLAND, in lat. 6° 23' S., Ion. 71° 18^' E., is to the N.W. of the Six Islands, and lies on the western edge of the Great Chagos Bank. The island is nearly 1| miles in extent, low, and covered with trees; we could not land on it from the violence of the surf. It is said to be full of wild poultry, and belongs to the proprietor of Eagle Island. S. by W. from the island, distant from 2 to 3 miles, a dangerous reef extends, on which the sea breaks at times. There is good anchorage to the East of the island in 17 fathoms water, which is on the Great Chagos Bank." * This Bank was not explored by Captain Moresby, but his position of Diego Garcia would give its longitude 70° 20' E., instead of 70° 12' E. t These islands were seen by M. de Surville in 1756, by the Egmont in 1760, by M. du Roslan in 1771, and by the Eagle in 1772, by the Rumbold in 1773, by the Drake in 1774, and were surveyed by Captain Blair in 1786. CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. 205 "EAGLE ISLAND, to the N. N. E. of Danger Island, 12 miles, is 2| miles in Eagle Wand. extent, N.E. and S.W. by half a mile to :] quarters broad, and lies also on the western edge of the Great Chagos Bank. Tlie island is covered witii coco-trees, and some high jnngle trees on its S.W. point; ofl' which a breaking reef extends half a mile. To the S.W. of Eagle Island, distant 2 miles, lies a woody island, half-way between which and Eagle Island tiiere is a good channel, and anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms water, sandy and coral bottom, between the two islands, taking care not to stand to the northward of the transit line between the two islands, as the bank suddenly ceases. There are no soundings or anchorage to the ]\.W of Eagle Island, unless a ship would run the risk of anchoring on the bank of coral reef, extending 300 yards from the island, on which there are 5 and G fathoms ; but this is a dangerous place, in case of a shift of wind. The village lies at the N.W. side of the island, near the centre, and is in lat. 0° 11' S., and Ion. 71° 23' E. The landing place is opposite the village; it is bad during the jN.W. winds from December to May, but good during the S. E. trade ; landing is never attempted on any other part of the island, it being dangerous. A ship requiring supplies of wood, water, and poultry, may easily obtain Supplies, them at this island, and may anchor as before mentioned between tiie two islands. The proprietor of this island obtains yearly about 6,000 gallons of coco-nut oil, a small quantity of cotton, soap, and tortoise-shell. Salt fish is also exported." " THE THREE BROTHERS, on the N.W. verge cff the Chagos Bank, and 12 to Three Bro- 14 miles to the eastward of Eagle Island, are small woody islands covered with coco- ''""*' trees. They are not inhabited, yet belong to the proprietor of Eagle Island ; the centre one is in lat. 6° 8^' S., and Ion. 71° 36' E. ; from this, the South Brother, the largest, lies 2 miles to the S.W., and the North Brother, the smallest, 2 miles to the N.W. These islands are difficult to land upon, on account of the high surf; except- ing the middle one, round which, on the east side, there is a lagoon reef, and on the north part there is a channel leading to the Middle Brother. This island does not afford water. There is anchorage to the eastward of the Brotliers in various depths, from 12 to 40 fathoms. The shoaler part near the North Brother — off the South Brother a reef extends; between the South and Middle Brother there is a channel, having in the centre a rocky islet, on each side of which the soundings are from 12 to 20 fathoms. Between the North and Middle Brother is a good channel, from 35 to 25 fathoms. Close to the S.W. side of the Brothers a deep channel, with 40 and 50 fathoms in it, leads on to the Great Chagos Bank, on the verge of which, both to the North and S.W. of the Brothers, there are some dangerous shoal spots.'" " NELSON ISLAND, in lat. 5° 40|' S., and Ion. 72° 22' E., on the northern and Nelson island, eastern verge of the Great Chagos Bank, is the same as discovered by Captain Dixon, of the Sivera, and by Captain Biden, of the Victory, in 1835, and severally called by them Sivera and Nelson Island; the latter name I have retained. It is a low rocky island, about 12 feet above the sea, composed of rocky cliffs of sand-stone; the east and w est ends of this island are covered with long grass, and a few bushes ; it is nearly divided in two by a dry sand-bank, and seen from a little distance looks like two islands; from one extreme to the other. East and West, is li miles in length, by 400 or 500 yards broad ; there are no soundings close off its northern side ; on the east and west are several shoal spots of 4 fathoms, on the verge of the Chagos Bank ; yet there is a good deep channel of 25 fathoms close to the east side of this island, leading on to the bank, where a vessel may anchor at any distance from the island in 16 to 17 206 CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. fatljoms, sand and coral. This island bears from the Victory Bank S. 31° E., distant 10 miles; between which there are no soundings, and from the S.W. island of the Salomon Group, S. 20° E. 21 miles." Victory Bank. " VICTORY BANK, in extent from 3 to 4 miles, having from 3 to 4 fathoms water on it. I consider it is a dangerous coral bank ; for though we found not less than 3 fathoms, there may be less on some of the rocks. It was discovered by Captain Bidin, in the Victory, in 1835, and lies South from the Salomon Islands, distant 11 miles, and is in lat. 5° 33' S., and Ion. 72° 16^' E. There are no soundings close off this bank." Pcros Banhos. He Vache Marine. Coin duMire. He du Coin. He Foquet. Diamond Island. " PEROS BANHOS, the largest group of the Chagos Archipelago, and, excepting Diego Garcia, the most valuable in the production of coco-nut oil — about 34,000 gallons yearly — is the property of a gentleman at Mauritius Island, whose overseer and negro apprentices, about 90 in number, manufacture the oil. This group was discovered by the French in 1744 ; their situation is between lat. 5° 13^' and 5°27'S., and Ion. 71° 47' and 72° 01' E. It forms nearly a square of 50 miles in circumfe- rence, containing 27 islands of small extent, low, and covered with coco-trees ; they lie nearly all on the north and west sides, two only being on the east side, four on the south side, two of which are barren, rocky islands. Between all the northern islands are good channels leading in, having 8 and 10 fathoms water. The N.W. islands are connected by a barrier reef, which continues to the southward on the west side, as far as the middle of the group, where a good channel, 3 quarters of a mile wide, leads in, having 10 and 15 fathoms water in it. The barrier again commences on the southern side of this channel, and coimects the islands on the southern and western sides ; it breaks off again into several channels on the centre of the south sides, close to two small rocky islands, with bushes on them, He Vache Marine, and Coin du Mire. Here the barrier is lost altogether above water ; it can be traced under water, having 3, 5, and 7 fathoms on it. A vessel of 300 or 400 tons may pass over it, but the deeper parts ought to be chosen. A ship making Peros Banhos from the southward, or during the period of the S. E. trade winds, where a heavy swell rolls into the Atoll, would do well to enter by the southern channels, and anchor under the lee of the south-westernmost island and reef, where there is an establishment of negro apprentices on He du Coin. This island is the south-westernmost island of the group, about 2 miles long : 3 quarters of a mile from its east end lies a small island, with high forest trees on it. Still more to the East of this small island, distant 1 mile, lies another small island, larger than the former, but covered with low trees, and is called He Foquet ; close to this latter island ends the barrier reef, round which a vessel may steer to enter the group; the channel here between He Foquet and He Vache Marine being 2 miles wide, with 7, 8, and 10 fathoms water in it. From the channel, a West course, 3^ miles, leads to the anchorage off He du Coin, in 13 to 15 fathoms water, with the houses bearing S.W., distant about 1 mile: wood, water, poultry, and some fruits and vegetables, may be obtained from the negroes. This is a good anchoring place during the JN.W. winds, or rainy season ; but as the northern islands are then more directly to windward, and afford better shelter for a vessel getting her supplies, I would recommend Diamond Island from December to May : it is the north-westernmost island of the group, about 2 miles long, thickly covered with coco-trees, and contains the principal establishment, which is in lat. 5° 15' S., Ion. 71° 48' E., and due North 11 miles from the southern establishment. CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. 207 A vessel may have the use of flat-bottomed boats to bring her water casks off. Plenty of poultry, fruit, vegetables, and pigs, at six Spanish dollars per cwt. The anchorage is half a mile distant from the houses, bearing N.W. in Hi to 17 fathoms, A coral reef extends between 200 and 300 yards from the shore, which is dry at low water, and is steep close to its edge. A ship departing from this anchorage to the north- ward may either proceed through any of the northern channels between the islands, or if the wind is far to the North, can go through the eastern channel. In the centre of the group, on its eastern side, are two moderate-sized islands, covered with coco-trees, and called Petite Coquilage and Grande Coquilage. ivtite co<|ui- Close to the northern island. Petite Coquilage, there is a good channel of ] 4 to Gfand"co 15 fathoms depth of water in it; between the two islands there is also 4 and 5 lage. '"'"' fathoms ; from the north side of the channel, at Petite Coquilage, a reef, dry at low water, extends up to the N.E. island, called Isle Yaye, to the West of which thei-e is uie Vaye. a broad and safe channel. A ship making Peros Banhos from the N.W., during the N.W. winds, may either enter by the western channel, in the centre of the west side, or by Moresby's Channel, which is the first channel on the north side, East of Diamond Island. Moresby's Channel is .3 quarters of a mile wide, and has 7 and 8 Moresby's fathoms water in it, taking care not to approach too near the spit of sand and coral ^'"'""'''• reef, extending off the east end of Diamond Island 1| miles ; and which bounds the west side of the channel, as does Moresby Island the east, which are bold and safe to Moresby approach. The soundings increase in depth to 20 and 30 fathoms, soft bottom, when ^'''""'• a vessel has entered the group. Coral knolls are numerous in the centre, and are very easily seen ; the sides of them are precipitous, none of them dry at low water, generally 2, 3, and 4 fathoms on them. Close outside the barrier reef of the group we found no bottom at 200 fathoms." " Benares Reef, or Shoal, discovered by us, is a most dangerous shoal coral patch, Benares ueef. having only 1^ to 2 fathoms on it, and lies W. ^ S. from the west side of Diamond Isle, distant 4^ miles. The sea seldom breaks on it ; it is about half a mile long N.W. and S.E., and lies outside the Peros Banhos group, consequently ought to be avoided by ships making the island from the N.W. There are no soundings near it, nor between the islands and it." " It is high water at Peros Banhos at Ih. 30ra. p.m., rise and fall from 5 to 6 feet ; the ebb tide sets to th^ westward, flood to the eastward ; the ebb runs out of all the northern channels," Tides. Boddnm Island. " SALOMON ISLANDS,* a circular group, containing five large, and six smaller Salomon islets, is 11 miles in circumference, and has only one opening into it to the N.W,; i^'''"''^- this passage is narrow, being nearly blocked up by a shoal patch in the middle of the channel, on which there are only 1^ and 2 fathoms. On the northern side of this patcii the channel is the deepest, having 3 fathoms, and only 2 on the south side ; the principal island is the S.W. island, called by Captain Blair, Boddam Island, and is in lat. 5° 21^' S., Ion. 72° 15' E., and 14 miles to the East of the eastern side of Peros Banhos. The N.E. island of the Salomons is called He de Passe, in lat. 5° 18' S., and Ion. 72° 17^' E., and bears from the south end of Blenheim Reef (a dangerous breaking reef) S. 81° W. ; and distant 12 miles from the south end of Speaker Bank, between which there are no soundings." * From the French ship Salomon, Captain Bourde, who saw them in 1766. They are called by Captain Blair Governor Boddam's Islands, which name Mr. Dalrymple appropriates to the harbour, and not to the islands. 208 CHAGOS ARCHIPELAGO. Harbour se- cure, but has a bar at the enlrance. Blenheim Reef. " If a judgment may be formed from the soil and productions, these islands," Captain Blair remarks, " may be supposed much older than any we have visited ; the soil is tolerable, and much deeper than at Diego Garcia, or Peros Baniios ; conse- quently, the trees take much deeper root, and grow to a greater size. One sort pecu- liar to tiiese islands, which appears to be very good timber, grows to the heigiit of 130 feet, many very straight, some 4 feet in diameter, and 40 feet from the ground to the branches. The young timber is white, but the old decayed trees are of a deep chocolate colour, and the timber perfectly sound. The harbour is very secure, but the bar at the entrance makes it unfit for large ships. There are a number of shoals within, which may be easily avoided by keeping a good look-out from the mast-head, as the clearness of the water makes them easily distinguished." The articles with which these islands abound are coco-nuts and the timber mentioned; a small quantity of tortoise-shells may sometimes be procured. The tide rises 6 feet, and it is high water at Ih. on full and change of moon. " BLENHEIM REEF* is a large lagoon reef, 6 miles in extent, North and South, by 2 miles broad ; on the south end there is an opening to the lagoon and anchorage off it in 6 or 7 fathoms ; all other parts of the reef are steep, and it has no soundings near it. The rocks are generally covered at high water, excepting some large blocks of coral and sand-stone on its eastern side. The centre of the reef is in lat. 5° 12^' S., Ion. 72° 30' E., nearly South from the east verge of the Speaker Bank, distant 11 miles ; the vicinity of these dangers has been well surveyed by us, and we may con- fidently say no danger exists but what we have observed. Between the Blenheim Reef and the Speaker Bank there are no soundings." Sandy Islands. SANDY ISLANDS, in lat. 5° 17' S., are distant about G leagues from Salomon Islands, to E.N. Eastward. These are three low sandy islands, connected by rocks and breakers, seen by the Griffin, in 1749, and by other ships; also by Captain Blair, in his survey of the Chagos Archipelago, in 1786. The Severn, Captain Adam Dixon, bound to Bombay, having experienced a west- erly current and scant wind in crossing the S.E. trade, passed on the west side of Diego Garcia about 6 miles distance, December 10th, 1833, and afterward liad from lo to 30 fathoms water on two coral banks, in steering to the northward with the Severn Isle. easterly wiud. Saw a small low Sandy Isle or Isles, with a spit extending to the northward, in lat. 5° 40' S., Ion. 72° 24' E., which are not marked in the survey of the Chagos Islands, and may, therefore, be named Severn Island. Passed afterward between Salomon and Sandy Islands without discerning the latter, although a good look-out was kept from the mast-head. An extensive reef of breakers 3 or 4 miles in length N.N.W. and S. S. E. was discerned bearing from North to N.E. when the easternmost island of the Salomon Group bore W.S.W., distant about 9 miles. This reef, in lat. 5° 14' S., Ion. 72° 30' E., by chronometer from Diego Garcia, allowing the latter in Ion. 72° 22' E., is apparently the northern- most danger of the Chagos Archipelago, but not marked in the survey of Captain Blair, Speaker Bank. " SPEAKER BANK takcs its name from the ship Speaker, Capt. James Dewar, who sailed over great part of it in 1763, although the Griffin had been previously upon The rocks on the eastern side of this reef, which are always above water, are supposed by Captain Moresby to be the remains of the three low Sandy Islands next described. MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL. 209 it in 1749. It extends from lat. 4° 44' to 5° & S., and between the lonc^itiides of 72° 17' and 72° 30' E. It is nearly an oval shape, lyin^ N.N.E. and S.S.W. about 24 miles, having a slight indentation on its S.E. side, like all the other banks of the Chagos; its edges are the shoalest part; the least water is 6 and 7 fathoms on its edges, excepting the South part, where we found only 4 fathoms ; no doubt the sea would break here at times when the long ocean-swell comes up with the S.E. trade. A ship ought to keep close off this part ; the water deepens on the centre of the bank to 15 and 22 fathoms soft sand, and some spots of coral rock of 6 and 10 fathoms ; the whole bank is sand and small coral. There are no soundings to be obtained close outside the bank. The CURRENTS about the Chagos are generally with the wind ; four months currents. from the middle of December to the middle of April, to the eastward ; other four, June, July, August, and September, to the westward, varying occasionally a little to the North or South of this direction. April and part of May, the winds and currents are variable, all November and December the same : the greatest velocity we ever found the currents have been 2 miles per hour on the great Chagos Bank; this was when the tide and current ran in the same direction. There are regular tides on the Tides. banks and islands; the flood sets to the E.S.E., and the ebb to the W.N.W. ; high water, full and change, Ih. 30m. Sometimes the tides and currents run obliquely to each other, or against each other, in which case the currents are retarded or accele- rated, causing ripplings, and if there is much breeze, the swell becomes short, and confused, and on the shoaler parts of the banks heavy rollers break at times, each wave having a rise and fall (by measurement) from 15 to 18 feet; this alone ought to prevent ships crossing these banks when there is much swell ; yet, as I observed before, they are easily avoided, and the islands approached with safety, and affording supplies, &c., to ships that may be in want. MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL. WEST AND N.W. COASTS OF MADAGASCAR,— WINDS, CURRENTS, —THE CHANNEL PASSAGE. WEST AND N.W. COASTS OF MADAGASCAR. THE MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL, or Inner Passage, formed between the Mozambique Coast of Africa and the Island of Madagascar, is in the narrowest part, nearly opposite ^''*""*'- to the town of Mozambique, about 71 leagues wide, but much broader at the southern part, opposite to Cape Corrientes, 2 E 210 MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST, Cape St. Mary. Point Barrow. Star Bank. Star Reefs. S. \V. part of Madagascar. CAPE ST. MARY, the South extreme of Madagascar, is ia lat. 25° 39' S., Ion. 45° 7' E., by Captain Owen's survey of this island, from whence the coast extends in a N.E.,']N.N.E. and North direction to Cape Ambre, its north extremity: and from Cape St. Mary, eastward to Fort Dauphin, the coast is mostly bold, with depths of 40 and 50 fathoms, about 4 or 5 miles off shore, on a banii of regular soundings that fronts the southern part of Madagascar, which is here mountainous. From Cape St. Mary to the westward, as far as Point Barrow, in lat. 25° 15' S., Ion. 44° 22' E., the depths are usually 14 or 16 fathoms about 2 or 3 miles off shore, and a bank of regular soundings, called by Captain Owen, STAR BANK, extends along the coast between these headlands, projecting 9 or 10 leagues off shore, with depths of 27 to 30 fathoms on its outer edge, about 14 leagues West from Cape St. Mary, and 8 leagues South from Point Barrow ; from this outer extremity it narrows towards the coast, forming a convex outline. STAR REEFS, distant from 2^ to 4 leagues W.S.W. and S.W. of Point Barrow, consist of several detached coral reefs with high breakers on them, extending nearly N.N.E. and S.S.W. from lat. 25° 17' to 25° 25' S., and in Ion. 44° 18' E. Tozer Patch, in lat. 25° 12^' S., Ion. 44° J4' E., may also be considered a part of these reefs, and lies 7| miles N.W. of Point Barrow, and 3f miles W.N. W. of Leven Island, the latter being a high isle, surrounded by a reef, about 4J miles N.W. by N. of the point last mentioned, and a bay, called Croker Bay, is formed to the northward of the point. There is a passage inside the Star Reefs, with 16 to 8 fathoms near Point Barrow, also between the latter and Leven Island, the soundings are from 8 to 5 or 4| fathoms in Croker Bay. This part of the coast should not be approached in the night, because the Star Reefs are very dangerous, partly above water, and distant up- wards of 4 leagues from the land. H.M.S. Intrepid, at the distance of three miles from them, had no ground at 150 fathoms; her noon observation was 25° 30' S., the outer part of the reefs bearing E.N.E. ^ E., about 7 miles distance, the land then in sight from the mast-head. These reefs are steep to, on the west side, with high breakers on this part, but between them and the coast of Madagascar there is a chan- nel about 3 miles wide, already mentioned, through which several French ships have passed, and it is thought to be safe, if a ship keep in mid-channel.* To the N.W. of Star Reefs, in lat. 25° 3' S., near the coast, lies Barracouta Island, which is small, surrounded by rocks and breakers, with soundings of 12 and 14 fathoms inside, between it and the reefs that extend along the coast to the distance of 2 miles from the shore in this part. Ships intending to touch at St. Augustine Bay, or to make the land to the south- ward of it, should not approach the coast to the southward of lat. 24° 30' S., as that part in the vicinity of the Star Reefs, is little frequented. From this latitude to St. Augustine Bay, the direction of the coast is generally about N. by E., having a front- ing reef at the distance of 2 or 3 miles from the shore, upon which the sea breaks high in most places. The land is of middling height near the sea, and high in the interior. St. Augustine ST. AUGUSTINE BAY, has at the entrance NOS VEY, or SANDY ISLAND, «=>• in lat. 33° 38' S., Ion. 43° 38' E., by the survey of Captain Owen. It is a small low island, about 2 miles from the southern shore, with shrubs on it, and a white sandy beach. * By the survey of Captain Owen, this channel seems not advisable to be followed, except by small vessels. MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST. 211 A ship coming from the southward, for St. Augustine Bay, should steer alonj,^ To s»ii tow.rd» shore at 2 leagues distance; when it is approached near, the high land about it will ""ebay. be seen, which near the sea is of middling height, but much higher at some distance inland ; a table hill, called Westminster Hall,* a considerable distance in the country, will be discerned on the north side of the bay. When Sandy Island is perceived, a course must be steered to pass it on the north side, where a ledge of rocks projects upwards of a mile to the N.N.W. ; and to nearly a mile distance from the west and S.W. sides, it is fronted by a reef, or foul ground, which is steep on the west side, but a bank of irregular soundings extends about 2 and 2^ miles to the northward of the island. A ship may borrow on this bank to 12 or 13 fathoms in passing Sandy Island, to avoid the shoals on the north side of the bay, on which the sea breaks in stormy weather. After passing the north end of the reef projecting from Sandy Island, in 13 or 14 fathoms water, in steering to the eastward, a piece of high land, close to the sea, on the south side of the bay, will be perceived, and another piece of high land at some distance in the country. The entrance of Onglahe River, called by the English, Dartmouth River, will then be open, and serve as a leading mark in sailing to the anchorage, by observing the marks near it. The north point of this river is a steep bluff, and the south one, which is also steep, has a low woody point terminating it to the northward. The high bluff point ought to be kept a sail's breadth t open with the low woody point, then the blufl' point of the north side of the river will bear E. ^ S. There is a narrow channel with 10 and 11 fathoms water betwixt Sandy Island and the shore reef, and from 4| to 6 fathoms near the island on the inside. In running to the eastward from Sandy Island, soundings may be preserved by steering toward the first low sandy point on the southern shore, from which a reef projects half a mile, with breakers usually on it. There are 9 and 10 fathoms water close to the breakers, and 14 or 15 fathoms 2 cables' length outside of them, from whence it deepens gradually to 28 fathoms, and at a small distance farther out, no soundings. The southern shore of the bay is low and sandy to the Tent Rock, which Captain Tem iiock. Owen places in lat. 23° 35' S., Ion. 43° 46' E. ; this is an isolated rock, below high- water mark, about half a cable's length to the westward of the steep clifl' at the water's edge, which is the west end of the piece of high land on the south side the entrance of the river. From the low sandy point to the Tent Rock, the south shore is lined by a reef, to Reef. the distance from it of more than half a mile. This reef is covered at half-tide, but the constant surf usually shews the limit of danger, except near the eastern part, where two rocks are situated on its outer edge ; these are always visible when the tide is not high, appearing at 3 quarters flood, or 1 quarter ebb, like two small boats or canoes, but they are covered at high spring tides. From these rocks, the reef converges toward the shore near the Tent Rock, leaving a bank of soundings to the northward, which is the proper anchorage. About half-way between the low sandy point where the breakers are, and the two * This table hill, from some points of view, is thought to resemble Westminster Hall, having at each end a pointed hillock like the pinnacles of that building. t This is the mark given by Mr. Nichelson for steering up the bay, but it is, probably, too distant as a guide for the entrance, particularly when it is considered that a sail's breadth is an indeterminate angle. 2 E 2 212 MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST. Directions to proceed to the anchorage. Anchorage. Tides. Wood and water. small rocks mentioned, there is a swatch in the reef, with 16 or 17 fathoms close to it, which makes the soundings not a certain guide in passing along ; for some ships have struck on this part of the reef, by hauling in towards it, when they could not get ground with the hand-lead. With the sea-breeze, which usually sets in about mid-day, a ship, after passing Sandy Island, may steer direct for the bottom of tlie bay, keeping a moderate distance from the edge of the reef; at other times, when the wind prevails from S.W. and southward, she ought to pass the breakers off the low sandy point in 14 or 15 fathoms, and the swatch in the reef may be passed in 21 fathoms, there being 34 fathoms water, about 2 cables' lengths farther out, and then no soundings. Between the swatch and the two rocks which appear at 3 quarters tide, the reef is nearly steep to, in some places, but a ship may steer along, getting a cast at times, in 29 or 30 fathoms. There are 12 fathoms a small distance outside of the two small rocks mentioned, 20 fathoms a little less than a cable's length from them, and .30 fathoms N. i E. from them about three cables' lengths, from whence the bank shelves suddenly into deep water. A ship should continue to steer to the eastward, with the north point of the river bearing about E. ^ S. till Westminster Hall is on with a low sandy point on the north side of the bay, bearing N.E. ^ N. ; she will then begin to get into tolerably regular soundings on the bank, and the two small rocks on the edge of the reef will bear about S.W. The depth decreases somewhat gradually on the bank, from 26 fathoms near the outer edge, to 9 and 10 fathoms toward the Tent Rock. The common anchorage is in 8 to 12 fathoms, the Tent Rock bearing S. ^ E. to S. ^ VV. good holding ground, which is the best situation, and where there is most room. The broadest part of the bank is with the Tent Rock S. ^ E., there being soundings two-thirds of the bay over from it with this bearing. No ship should let go an anchor in more than 15 or 16 fathoms, unless it is with this bearing of the Tent Rock, and then in not more than 18 or 20 fathoms, for the bank shelves off suddenly from 24 fathoms in most places. The Intrepid, in 10| fathoms, had the Tent Rock bearing S. f W. offshore 1 short mile. The Preston, in August, 1801, anchored in 14 fathoms, the Tent Rock, S. 6° W., distant 1^ miles, the bluff point on the south side the entrance of the river S. 81° E., distant 3 miles, the low green point on the north side of the entrance E. 3^ miles, a white rugged and nearly perpendicular cliff N. 6.3° E., and Westminster Hall N. 40° E., distant about 11 or 12 miles. The anchorage abreast the Tent Rock, is about 6 miles distant from Sandy Island. A ship should moor East and West, that she may ride between the two anchors with an open hawse when the wind blows strong from the northward, which sometimes happens; in some places, if she moor North and South, the outer anchor would be in very deep water. During the N.E. monsoon it is considered dangerous to lie in this bay, the northerly and N.W. winds, which prevail much in that season, blowing directly into it, accompanied by a heavy swell. High water on full and change of moon at 4 hours 30 minutes. Rise of tide 13 feet. "Variation 20° 8'W. in 1824, by the survey of Captain Owen. Wood and water are got near the entrance of the river. The Intrepid towed her water on board in rafts, but found it tedious, the distance being nearly 3 miles, and several casks were lost on the bar by the surf. At low water, spring tides, the depth on it is only 2 feet, and the stream runs almost constantly down the river, although MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST. 213 the perpendicular flow of tide is 12 and 13 feet on the springs. Alligators are seen in it at times. Ships generally get a good supply of bullocks, sheep, and poultry at this place ; but Refreshments, it has been customary to give the King of Baba a present, when a large supply is *''■ wanted, to induce him to encourage his people to trade: vegetables are scarce. The inhabitants are hospitable, but subtle and prone to revenge. TULLEAR HARBOUR is about 4 leagues to the north-eastward of Sandy Island, Tuiiear Har- and is formed by a rocky bank running parallel to the shore, and within which there ^°"''^ is anchorage near a small river. The coast from the point north of St. Augustine Bay to this river, is fronted by a reef* parallel to that already mentioned, and forming the eastern side of the harbour. The outer reef lies above a league from the shore in some places, and is steep to on the outside. The entrance to the harbour is round the north end of the outer reef, and is about a mile wide, with 14 to 18 fathoms water, decreasing in depth as you approach the anchorage, which is in 6 and 7 fathoms near TuUear Town, but the bottom being rocky this place is not frequented. The south entrance is rocky and more intricate. The Arabella, 4th June, 1714, sent her boata-head to sound, and followed the boat into the northern passage leading into TuUear Harbour, least water a quarter less 7 fathoms on the Bar, then deepened gradually to 12 fathoms, keeping nearest to the southern shore, and steering S.S.E. to bring Westminster Hall to bear about S.E., afterwards anchored in 6 fathoms ooze, with the Table bearing S.E. f E., mid-channel between the shore and the breakers, the latter bearing N.W., distance offshore 1 mile, and had 7 fathoms within a cable's length all round the ship. Procured some bul- locks, &c., and on the 14lh, at 6 a.m. weighed with a land breeze at S.E., least water 8 fathoms in running out over the bar. Variation in 1714, was 23° W. ; in- 1824 20° 8' W. by Capt. Owen. The coast from Tullear Bay to the northward, continues to be lined by reefs, at 2 or 3 miles' distance in some places. MURDERERS' BAY, in lat. 22° 12' S., Ion. 43° 18' E., is very shoal inside the Murderers- entrance, where there are from 3 to 5 fathoms between the reefs, but only a few feet ^*>'- water inside, although the bay is 3 or 3^ miles in extent; a reef projects above 2 miles from the high land on the south side of the mouth of this bay. Murderf Island lies about 8 miles to the North of Murderers' Bay, and a reef projects 2 miles from it to the southward and south-westward, and 1 mile to the westward. Grave Island is 7 miles farther north, in lat. 21° 57' S., also fronted by a reef; and two detached reefs, called Bowie's Reef and Parsons' Reef, are in a direct line between these islands. These islands and reefs are distant about 2^ miles from the shore, having a channel with from 6 to 12 fathoms water betwixt them and the reef that lines the coast. CAPE ST. VINCENT, in lat. 21° 54' S., Ion. 43° 20' E., and 5 miles E. by N. Cape st. vin. of Grave Island, has the river St. Vincent, or Joune-a-Minty, to the North, which is ""' * The Company's ship, Winterton, was wrecked on this reef, by standing too near the land in the night. t When engaged on the survey of the coast in 1824, Mr. Bowie and Mr. Parsons, midshipmen of H.M.S. Barracouta, under the command of Captain Owen, were assassinated by the natives on Murder Island, and buried on Grave Island ; as a memorial of which, and a warning to others, these appropriate names were given to the islands, instead of 1st and 2nd, as formerly marked in the charts. 214 MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST. fronted by islands and reefs, the outermost reefs being about 2 leagues distant from the shore, with no soundings outside, till close to the dangers. The cape is also fronted bv a detached reef, extending 4J miles parallel to the coast, having betwixt it and the inner reef that lines the shore, a narrow channel with from 3 to 5 fathoms water, and there are 14 or 15 fathoms between its southern extremity and the reef surrounding Grave Island. To the northward of these dangers, the coast continues to be fortified by reefs contiguous to it, having a bank of soundings from 12 to 8 fathoms, extending 5 or 6 miles off; and in lat. 21° 20' S. the land trends eastward for about 6 leagues, and is formed of many broken points and inlets, with contiguous shoals, and soundings of 9 to 15 fathoms within 3 or 4 miles of the limit of danger. Crab and Barlow H lands. Mouioundava, patches of reefs between them, and other patches lie in a N.N.E. line from )w Island, as far as lat. 20° 40' S. There is a passage with from 15 to 6 fathoms CRAB ISLAND, in lat. 21° 4' S., is 10 miles offshore, and BARLOW ISLAND in lat. 20° 50' S., is nearly the same distance : these islands are small, fortified by reefs, with Barlow water between the coast and these isles and reefs, which appear to be situated on the verge of the bank of soundings, for there is no ground 100 fathoms at a small distance to the westward of them. All the coast hereabout is low, and from lat. 21° to 20° S., extends in a N. N. E. direction, with a bank of irregular soundings from 7 to 20 fathoms, projecting 4 and 6 leagues off shore ; and in lat. 19° 55' S. about 10 leagues off, there is a bank with 16 fathoms water. MOUROUNDAVA, in lat. 20° 18' S., Ion. 44° 19' E., by Captain Owen's survey, is a place where some trade was formerly carried on, and where a ship may get refresh- ments. Water is procured in the rivers adjacent to the road. The anchorage is in 8^ or 9 fathoms, with a remarkably high tree bearing E.S.E., near the sands which bar the rivers Youle and Mouroundava. This place is seldom frequented by European ships, being exposed to N.W., S.W., and West winds. The Arabella, August 14th, 1714, was in lat. 20° 12' S., Youngoule or Youle, bear- ing S.E. about 5 miles, sent the pinnace to a canoe, which had one of the king of Timiuiiobus people in her, who gave us a woman pilot to conduct us to the anchorage. She anchored us in 8^ fathoms, Youngoule bearing S.E. 2 or 3 miles, but being too near the bar and a shoal that lies off the river about a mile, weighed and steered N. by E. 1|- miles, then anchored in 9 fathoms, Youngoule bearing S.S.E., distant 3 miles, extremes of the land from S.VV. to N.E. by E., and the large tree S.E. |; E., which stands a little to the northward of the river. Variation 22° 30' W. The Clapham galley had sailed 2 months before with 300 slaves, and the Arabella got 203 slaves here, and sailed September 24th for Bencoolen. In 1824, the variation off Mouroun- dava was 18° 7' W. The coast from Mouroundava continues low, with shoals conti- guous to Parceelas River, in lat. 19° 35^' S., and forms a concavity ; from hence it takes a N.W. direction to lat. 19° 8' S., then about N. by E. | E. to 18° 51' S., opposite to which part the southern limits of dangers on the Pracel or Barren Islands Bank commence. Pracel Bank, PRACEL* or PRACELLA BANK, extends a great distance from the coast of Madagascar, having several dangers interspersed over it, some of which are about 7 leagues from the coast, according to the survey of these dangers by Capt. Owen. * Signifying hidden or invisible. MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST — BARREN ISLANDS. 215 The southern limit of this bank is a little to the southward of the Barren Islands, and it reaches nearly to Cape St. Andrew ; the soundings on it are in many places very uneven, the bottom being generally composed of coral and sand ; and at the western edge it is steep to seaward. BARREN ISLANDS, about seven or eight in number, have reefs and breakers Barren islands. projecting from some of them to a considerable distance, with other reefs far detached from them ; betwixt which, and also among the islands, there are soundings from 7 to 15 or 16 fathoms. The islands are small and low, with white sandy beaches, and shrubs on them. The southernmost danger, called the South Sand, is placed by Capt. Owen in lat. 18° 41' S., Ion. 43° 58' E. South Island in lat. 18° 34' S., Ion. 43° 56' E. North Island in lat. 18° 18' S., Ion. 43° 46' E. North Sand in lat. 18° .3' S., Ion. 43° 54' E. West Breakers in lat. 18° 16^' S., Ion. 43° 44' E. Heavy breakers were also seen in lat. 18° 2' S., Ion. 43° 44' E., about three leagues to the westward of the North Sand. These Islands and Reefs being situated on the southern and western edge of the Pracel Bank, several ships have been in danger of running on them in the night, when steering for the edge of the Bank. The Fox, in June, 1783, at day-break, was close to breakers when the Barren Islands Dangerous to were perceived at 2 or 3 miles' distance. She was obliged to make a tack or two, to theTi^ht.'" clear the outermost dangers, and when close to these islands, the high regular sloping land of Madagascar was in sight from the deck to the eastward, distant about 10 leagues. June 12th,. 1792, the Montrose at day-light saw part of Madagascar E.N. E. distant about 9 leagues, and the southernmost Barren Islands bearing N. N. W. she imme- diately hauled to the westward and cleared them. June 30th, 1799, the Walmer Castle and Hughes, in company, at day-light saw the northernmost of the Barren Islands bearing S. E. distant 4 or 5 leagues. They sounded and had 13, 10, 7, and 7| fathoms coral rocks, hauled out West 3 miles, and Corai Banks to had from 10 to 15 fathoms ; from hence stood 3 miles more to the westward, deepened JheJ!' ^^' "^ to 90 fathoms on the edge of the Pracel Bank, being noon, observed in lat. 18° 6 S., Ion. 44° 10' E.* by chronometer. Variation 21° W. Current setting N. E. 1 mile per hour. June 30th, 1801, the Fort William, Worcester, Airley Castle, and Hawkesbury, got soundings on the bank at 10 p.m. in 20, 18, and 16 fathoms, and anchored. They weighed and stood to the northward in the morning, with boats a-head sounding. The Soundings on least water was 8 and 9 fathoms white coral and sand, and the shoal part of the bank onnTpra^d' which they passed over, is from lat. 17° 34' to 17° 16' S., Ion. 43° 31' E. Two of these B^nk- ships at noon made the observed lat. 17° 17' and 17° 18' S. when in 14 and 19 fa- thoms, and by three different ships' chronometers at the same time. Ion. 43° 29' E., 43° 31' E., and 43° 35' E. ; the Hawkesbury, about 2 or 3 miles more to the westward, was on the edge of the bank in deep water. June 16th, 1800, the Brunswick and fleet got soundings on the Bank, 23 fathoms coral; at noon, in 22 fathoms, the observed lat. 17° 30' S., Ion. 43° 32' E., 43° 29' E., and 43° 29' E., by three ships' lunar observations; from hence they steered N. N. E. | E. to N. E. by N. 37 miles, in soundings from 23 fathoms, increasing irregularly to 38 fathoms, afterwards no ground 40 fathoms steering N. E. ^ N. May 10th, 1799, observed lat. 17° 9' S., Ion. 43° 40' E. by chronometers, the Taunton * Their longitude seems to have been too much to the eastward. 216 MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST — COFFIN ISLAND. Castle was on the edge of the Bank, no ground 45 fathoms ; a little before noon she had '25 fatliouis on it. July lythand -JOth, 1798, the Walpole had light winds on the Pracel Bank, sound- ings generally from 15 to 30 fathoms. She lay by, during these two nights, and made sail at day-light each morning : she first got soundings, (iO fathoms on the edge of the Bank, in"lat. 17° 51' S., Ion. 43° 30' E. by O < ; on the following day in 29 fathoms, observed lat. 17° 50' S., Ion. 43° 56' E. by O C , and 43° 49' E. by chronometers ; from hence, she continued to have soundings, till in lat. 16° 30' S., ion. 44° 4' E. Result. By the above extracts, taken from original journals of the ships mentioned, theS. western limit of this bank appears to be in about Ion. 43° '2B' E. ; and from the S.VV. end, contiguous to the Barren Islands, it diverges a little to the westward of this meri- dian to lat. 17" 22' S., where its extreme western limit is in Ion. 43° 6' E., about 12 leagues W. by N. from Coffin Island; from hence, it begins to take a direction to the eastward of North. Dangers. The Worcester, in 1790, got 10 and 12 fathoms rocks on the S. Western edge of the Bank, at 2 p.m., August 20th, when in lat. 18° 1' S. from noon observation, Ion. 43° 38' E. by observation of O < at the time: and from the mast-head, the appearance of breakers was seen to the eastward. The Thistleworth, July 28th, 1714, saw rocks under the bottom, and on sounding had only 3 fathoms coral rocks, low land then discerned bearing E. S. E., distant about 5 leagues, thought to be on the main, steered JN. W. and deepened fast to 30 fathoms no ground. When in 3 fathoms, was in lat. 18° 11' S. computed from noon observation, and it was probably the northernmost of the Barren Islands, and not the land of Madagascar seen at that time. The Nathaniel, April 2oth, 1712, before day-break, struck on the reef that projects about a mile from the northernmost Barren Island, and beat off her rudder; but the anchor having been previously let go in 4 fathoms, she quickly warped off into 11 fathoms, and hung her rudder again. Observed lat. 18° 14' S., the northernmost island bearing N. by E. ; one South ; another S. E. ; and another S. by E. 5 or 6 leagues, being then half a mile off the reef, bearing from East to N. by W. ^ W. As the Walmer Castle had only 7 fathoms, and the Thistleworth only 3 fathoms on the shoal coral patches to the N.W. of the Barren Islands, these islands and the S.W. part of the Bank, ought not to be approached without great caution, and a ship should haul out instantly to the westward, if she happen to get soundings on this part of the bank. Coffin Islind. VulU Sand. COFFIN ISLAND,* in lat. 17° 29' S., Ion. 43° 47' E. by Captain Owen's survey, or 9 miles West from Sandy Island, St. Augustine Bay, is small and low, of black appearance, with a white sandy beach ; it has been mistaken for the Island Juan de Nova, by several navigators in passing, from their not having seen the adjacent coast of Madagascar, which hereabout is low near the sea, but inland has a conical peak, and is generally mountainous. This island is 10 miles distant from the coast, dan- gerous to approach on the N.W. and S.W. sides, as shoal detached coral banks project trom it 5 and 6 miles in these directions, and it is surrounded by a reef to the distance of 1 and 1^ miles. To the north-westward of it, at 2 leagues' distance, there IS a bank called Vulla Sand, nearly covered at high water spring tides, with two other detached reefs between the latter and the island, having overfalls from 18 to 4 fathoms around and betwixt them. * Called Savou, in the French charts, and by the Dutch, Dodkist, i. e. CoflBn. MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST — COFFIN ISLAND. 217 The Taunton Castle saw the land from the mast-head at day-light, April 18th, Taumon Ca,tie 1791, appearing something like a sail, bearing E.N.E. She then steered between %°a"hLk."' N.E. and N.N.E. 18 miles to 9 a.m., when the water appearing discoloured, she struck on a bank of coral and sand in .3^ fathoms, in the act of sounding. Wlien aground, Coffin Island bore E.N.E. about 5 miles, and a sand bank N.JN.E. about the same distance. To the N.W. the water was found to be very shoal, but deepened fast to the south-westward. A small anchor being laid out in this direction, the ship was hove into deep water: the tide had flowed 13 feet when the ship floated, the sand bank then nearly covered, just visible from the mast-head, the tide setting 2 miles an hour to the N.E. Whilst she lay on the coral bank, the weather was very fine, and the sea smooth ; notwithstanding, her fore-foot was found much injured, on examination in Bombay dock.* The cutter was sent to examine the bank to the southward and eastward of the island, and found the depths about 3 leagues to the S.E. and southward of it, gene- rally sandy bottom, from 10 to 7 and 8 fathoms. To the eastward of the island, between it and the Madagascar shore, the depths decreased to 5 and 6 fathoms soft ground, in mid-channel, shoaling as the island or the coast were approached to 3 and Channel inside 3^ fathoms hard ground. It was therefore concluded, that the channel between """''""''• Coffin Island and the adjacent coast has from 4 to 5 fathoms in it at low water, shoaling towards either shore ; the water in it was thick, containing a quantity of weed, and the tide set strong through it to the northward. The soundings near the Island, by Captain Owen's survey, are 16, 14, and 12 fathoms, decreasing to 8 and 6 fathoms in mid-channel ; which latter depths continue at the distance of 4 or 5 miles from the coast, both to the northward and southward of Coffin Island, although there are patches of 4 or 5 fathoms in some places. When the Taunton Castle struck on the coral bank, the land last seen was the Island of Trinidad, near the coast of Brazil; after getting clear of the ground, she Ashoaispino remained at anchor near the shoal, with light northerly winds, till the 20th ; on this onhe'slnd' day, she passed the sand bank on the S.W. side, at the distance of 4 or 5 miles, bank. deepening gradually to 22 fathoms when 3 leagues to the westward of it, then shoaled at once to 7 and 8 fathoms on a coral spit, in passing over which, the rocks were visible under the bottom; afterwards, she steered about N. by W. by compass, in soundings from 15 to 32 fathoms, till in lat. 16° 56' S. ; from hence, she steered N.E. by N., deepening to 56 fathoms in 16° 34' S., and then no ground at the same depth. Coffin Island was seen by the Princess Amelia and London, in company, August 12th, 1795. They steered E.N.E. and N.E. by E. 8 miles from noon, had three casts during this run, of 13, 20, and 22 fathoms, when at half-past 2 p.m., an island was seen from the mast-head, bearing East. Captain Millet, of the Princess Amelia, states in his journal, " at 3 p.m., I saw from Capt. MiUct* the mast-head, a small island bearing about E.S.E. by compass, also a sand bank, ''""'P"""- with a large extent of breakers bearing East about 4 leagues' distance ; then in lat. 17° 30' S., from noon observation, and from Sandy Island, St. Augustine Bay, 19 miles West l)y time-keeper. The breakers of the sand bank are therefore 7 miles West from Sandy Island, which may be depended upon." Variation 18° W. near Coffin Island in 1824. * This coral patch was not found by the officers under Captain Owen, although they searched for it witli the Taunton Castle's cross bearings. 2 F 218 MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST — CHESTERFIELD BANK. ChestorBelil Bank. Account from the Journal of the Warren Hastings. Account from the Journal of the Worcester. CHESTERFIELD BANK, the centre, in lat. 16° 17' S., Ion. 43° 6b^' E.* by Capt. Owens survey, named from the ship Earl Chesterfield, having, with the Wal- pole and Hector in company, passed close to it, August 13th, 17.50. These ships, the preceding evening, passed in sight of Coffin Island, which is called in the Ches- terfield's journals, St. Christopher's.! From passing the island in the evening, they steered N.N.E. 38 miles, and N.E. 36 miles, when the shoal was seen in the morning, bearing from N.N.W to N.W. ^ N., distant about 2 miles ; they directly hauled out W.N.W., had 6, 7, and 8 fathoms in passing near the breakers, then at once 19, 20, and 2-5 fathoms ; and when 12 miles to the westward of the sand, no ground 40 fathoms. The shoal is said to be about a mile in length East and West, having on it a rock, with a patch of reddish sand to the eastward of it, on which the sea broke furiously, though the weather was moderate. The Warren Hastings saw this shoal, July 8th, 1787, and carried soundings on the Pracel Bank, in steering toward it, and also after passing. From 6 p.m., she steered E. by N. 27 miles, and East 16 miles to 5 a.m., in regular soundings 20 fathoms ; at 6 P.M., increasing to 30 and 32 fathoms sand and shells, about midnight; and from 36 to 42 fathoms, till 5 a.m., frequently blue mud, at which time she hove to, until day-light. From 6 a.m., steered N.E. by N. 14 miles, at 8 a rock was seen bearing N. 5 or 6 miles, the depths were then 10, 13, and 18 fathoms, brown sand. From this time she steered till noon N.E. 7 miles, and N.E. by N. 21 miles, in 18 and 20 fathoms, having passed to the eastward of the shoal, and observed in lat. 16° 0' S. From noon she steered N.E. by N. 10 miles, increasing the depth regularly, after- ward no ground 30 fathoms. The Worcester also fell in with the Chesterfield Bank, August 21st, 1790. At 2 P.M., she sounded in 22 fathoms in lat. 17° 44' S., Ion. 43° 37' E., with the wind at North she stood to the W.N.W. 5 miles, deepening to 54 fathoms, it then veering to N.W. and westward, she steered during the night mostly N.E., in various soundings from 30 to 13 and 16 fathoms, hauling off Nortli at times wlien the depth decreased. At half-past 10 a.m., when in 22 fathoms mud, the shoal was seen from the mast- head, bearing N.E. by E., about 3,^ leagues ; steered North till noon, in soundings 22 and 20 fathoms, the shoal then E. 32° S. 7 or 8 miles. She steered northward till 3 P.M., 22nd, in different depths, from 27 to 13^ fathoms, then deepened from 25 fathoms to 30, 40, and 65 fathoms, no ground, and bore away N.E. by N. * The journals of some of the Company's ships make it more to the eastward ; but they agree in placing it about 7 miles to the East of Coffin Island, or 1 ^ miles less than Captain Owen's admeasurement. t In this ship, therefore. Coffin Island was mistaken for the imaginary island, St. Christopher's, and the situation of the Chesterfield Shoal has been placed in the old charts, and described in former Directories, according to the run of this ship from St. Christopher's, or N. 5° E. from it, distant 24 leagues ; whereas, the relative position of the shoal should have been marked really from Coffin Island. The journals of the Chester- field only have been formerly consulted in assigning to this shoal its position, by which it continued more than half a century projected on the charts, at the distance of nearly 1^° from the coast of Mada- gascar, considerably detached from the edge of the bank ; whereas, had the journals of the Walpole been equally consulted as those of the Chesterfield, this error might have been avoided. Captain Fowler's journal of the Walpole, in company with the Chesterfield, states that the island seen in the evening could not be St. Christopher's, but an island nearer Madagascar ; although they did not sound at the time, nor till 2 a.m., when the water was observed to be discoloured: — at this time, they sounded in the Walpole, had 23 fathoms, and made the signal ; from hence, steering N.E. by compass, the soundings decreased to 16 and 17 fathoms at 5 a.m. ; at a quarter past 5, breakers were seen close a-head, and a rock on the middle of a sand bank ; at half-past 5 the breakers bore North after hauling to the westward to clear them ; at 6 they bore N.E. by N. 1 mile, deepening fast from 7 fathoms near them, to 20 fathoms in standing westward. MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST — JUAN DE NOVA, 219 In this sliip, they judged the extent of the shoal to be about a quarter of a mile from North to South, where it is dry, consisting of reddish sand, with a black rock in the middle, and breakers surrounding the sand. It is about 12 leagues distant from Cape St. Andrew, and 1 1 leagues from the nearest part of Madagascar, being the northern- most danger on the Pracel Bank. The depths near it to the eastward are 20 and 18 fathoms, decreasing to 6 and 5 fathoms within 2^ or 3 leagues of the coast. In a direction about W. ^ N. from the shoal to the distance of 13 or 14 leagues, soundings from 22 to 18 fathoms were found by the officers under Captain Owen, or at the distance of 25 leagues from Madagascar in that direction ; and from 22 to 18 fathoms were found in a N.N.E. direction to the distance of 7|^ leagues from the shoal. The variation near the shoal was 17° VV. in 1824. In running to the northward, the Chesterfield Shoal may be avoided by keeping Directions, for outside the bank of soundings, or by sounding on the verge of it a few leagues to the a™^'"?"!* southward of the parallel of the shoal; then by steering to the northward along the edge of soundings, when crossing the latitude of the danger, or just venturing to get a cast of deep soundings at times, on the verge of the bank. Proceeding to the south- ward, this shoal may be avoided in the same manner, by keeping outside, or barely on the verge of the bank of soundings. In lat. 16° 54' S., at the distance of about 3 or 3^ leagues from the coast, lies the Porpoise Reef. PORPOISE REEF, even with the water's edge. The Pracel Bank, as already observed, along the S.W. and western verge, is generally steep, having a sharp de- clivity from 30 or 35 fathoms, to 50 and 60 fathoms no ground. JUAN DE NOVA, or ST. CHRISTOPHER, in lat. 17° 3' S., Ion. 42° 47' E. jaandeNora. by Captain Owen's survey,* has in most old charts been marked as two islands, at a great distance from each other; the Dutch, however, seem to have known that only one island did exist at a great distance from the coast of Madagascar in this part of the channel, which is called Juan de Nova in Van Keulen's chart. The Sir Edward Hughes passed in sight of it in June, 1797, and made it in lat. Account from 17° 4' S. from noon observation. This ship's journal states it to be about 1^ or 2 |he sir" Edlar j miles in length, with breakers projecting 3 miles from the S.W. side, and nearly the Hughes, same distance from the N.E. part ; that it is low and dangerous to approach in the night. When it bore N.E. by N. about 3 miles, at 11 p.m., H.M.S. Intrepid had no ground 150 fathoms. Captain Owen's survey makes this island 2^ miles in extent, W. by N. and E. by S. with a reef projecting 2 miles East from its eastern point, and another reef stretching to the same distance W.N.W. from the western extremity of the Island ; with a bank of soundings from 7 to 12 fathoms, fronting its northern side to the distance of 3 or 3| miles. This island is distant about 8 or 9 leagues to the westward of the edge of soundings on the Pracel Bank, and it appears to be the rendezvous of aquatic birds, for there are generally great numbers in its vicinity. It may be seen about 4 leagues from the poop of a large ship, or 6 leagues from the mast-head, having a small elevation at the centre, where it is covered with shrubs. Variation near it 16^ West in 1824. The Scaleby Castle, in company with the Bombay and China ships, passed it on Account from the west side June 3d, 1807. At noon, it bore East, true, distant 3 or 4 miles, had |!;' scaTeby "'^ Caslle. * Captain Loch, of the Scaleby Castle, and other officers of the Company's ships, made it in lat. 1 7° 4' S., Ion. 43° 2' E., or 15 miles to the East of Captain Owen's longitude. 2 F 2 220 MADAGASCAR, WEST COAST. then no "round 00 fivthoms ; from hence, made a true North course \\ miles, and had 2 casts no ground QO fathoms ; steering the same course about half a mile farther, got soundings Oi fothoms sandy bottom, the body of the island bearing then true S. 34° E., distant about 3 or 4 miles. From this station, steering JNorth and N.N.VV. about 1| miles, carried regular soundings, deepening from 9^ to 15 fathoms, then suddenly no "•round 40 fathoms, when about 4^ or 5 miles to the N.VV. of the island. The other ships farther out, had no ground in passing. The island appeared to be about a mile in diameter, with a reef projecting at least 2 miles to the southward, and nearly the same distance to the N.W. and N.E. of the island, with discoloured water projecting from the reef at the N.W. end. Captain Loch thinks that it was on the tail of the N.W. reef, where they got soundings in passing, and advises not to come nearer the island than 3|^ or 4 miles on the West side, there being no danger at that distance. He estimated its elevation about 40 feet above the sea, but it cannot be seen more than 6 leagues from the mast-head, and being surrounded with breakers, the first intimation of its proximity in the night would probably be their noise. Koora Kyka, KOORA KYKA is a Small place, in lat. 17° 53' S., to the south-eastward of *"*■ Coffin Island, where a ship may anchor, and procure water in case of necessity ; close to the northward of this place, lies the small river Vulla, directly opposite to Coffin Island, and 8 leagues farther northward is the river Manumbaugh, in lat. 17° ll'S. Between Coffin Island and the coast, there are irregular depths of 14 to 8 fathoms near the island, shoaling to 6 and 5 toward the coast : if a ship intend to pass through this channel, or to anchor at any of these places, caution is requisite to avoid the coral patches interspersed along the western coast of Madagascar. The tides set strong through the channel, between Coffin Island and the mainland. Cape St. An. CAPE ST. ANDREW, in lat. 16° ll'S., Ion. 44° 31' E., by Captain Owen's survey, is about 29 or 30 leagues to the N.E. of Manumbaugh River; and it being the north-western extremity of Madagascar, the land from hence takes an easterly direction. The N.W. coast of Madagascar from this Cape to Cape Ambre, had for a century been little known to English navigators, until Captain David Inverarity , explored the harbours, and nearly the whole of this part of the coast, during a trading voyage along it, in 1802. And in 1824 and 1825, the whole of the coast line and the harbours of this extensive island were examined and surveyed by H.M. Ships Leven and Barracouta, under the command of Captain W. F. W. Owen. BoyanaBay. BOYANA BAY entrance, or the N.W. point, called TABLE CAPE, is in lat. 15° 59' S., Ion. 45° 23' E., the direction of the coast being from Cape St. Andrew, about East. This bay is about 3 miles wide in the entrance, and 6 or 7 miles in length, extending South, with depths from 6 to 4 fathoms, which shoal to 2 and 1 fathom near the shore and at the bottom of the bay, around which there are several small villages. At the N.E. angle of the bay there is a cove or circular basin nearly filled with shoals, but in the entrance there are 2 and 3 fathoms, with 6 or 7 fathoms Tides. water a little way inside at low tide, and the rise is 15 feet ; high water at 4^ hours on full and change of the moon. Variation 15° 5' W. in 1824. False Cape. False Cape, in lat. 15° 46' S., Ion. 45° 43' E., is a rocky headland, about 4 leagues to the southward of which lies the mouth of Boteler River, fronted by numerous banks and shoal flats, but has 8 and fathoms water inside, in some places. Makumba Makumba River, about o^ leagues more easterly, in lat. 15° 46' S., Ion. 46° 0' E., MADAGASCAR, N. W. COAST. 221 is also fronted by shoal banks, but there is a channel with from 4 to 10 fathoms water near the eastern shore, in a S.W. direction, then round the eastern point to S.E. and eastward, where a vessel may anchor land-locked in 4^ to fathoms water. BEMBATOOKA BAY is large and safe, Manjunga Point on the East side of Bembaiooka the entrance, being in lat. 15° 43' S., Ion. 46° 20' E., by Captain Owen's survey. The ^°5'- entrance is about 3^ miles wide, clear of danger, the depths irregular, from 18 or 20 fathoms, to 7 and 6 fathoms in some places, particularly near Point Sareebingo, on the east side of the entrance, inside of which is the village Majunga, or Majunghai. The depths from the entrance, by keeping more than mid-channel towards the western side of the bay, are from 10 to 20 fathoms to Tandava Point, which is about 2f leagues within, on the east side, having a reef extending around to the distance of a mile from the shore, and along the eastern side of the bay : reefs also front the western shore opposite to Tandava Point. Bembatooka Town is on the south side of this point, where ships may lie land-locked, sheltered from all winds, in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms, close under the point near the town. From Bembatooka, the bay widens and be- comes a basin, shoaling about 3 miles within its entrance, and at the head of which several small rivers discharge themselves, having islands fronting their entrances. Variation lo° W. in 1824. Rise of tide about 16 feet. This bay is an eligible place Tides, to refresh a fleet of ships. Bullocks are plentiful at 2 dollars each ; rice, and other supplies. articles, may also be procured at reasonable prices. MAJAMBO BAY, the west point bears E.N.E. from Bembatooka Bay entrance, Mnjambo Bay. distant about 50 miles, and is in lat. 15° 12' S., Ion. 4G° 59' E. The entrance is about 5 miles wide, narrowing gradually to 2 miles, where, at the distance of 3 leagues from the entrance, it opens into a capacious basin or inner harbour. The soundings in the outer bay are irregular, from 9 to 35 fathoms, and those in the inner harbour more irregular, varying near its entrance from 4 to 68 fathoms, the greater part of the basin, from its centre towards its farther shores, being shoal, except under its western entrance point (Point Tchinsamansey), where there is anchorage in from 8 to 10 fathoms, land- locked, and sheltered from all winds. This bay has several rivers falling into it, with a table hill near the rocky point on the east side of the entrance. The tide flows rides. here on full and change to 4A hours, and rises 16 feet. Variation 13° 6' W. in 1824. PORT MAZAMBO, in lat. 14° 54' S., Ion. 47° 19' E., appears by Capt. Owen's PortMazambo survey, to afford good shelter for moderate sized vessels havinj from 2^ to 7 fathoms m the outer part, with 4 and 5 fathoms water inside the island, at the mouth of the port or basin, where vessels might anchor in safety from all winds. NARREENDA BAY entrance is between the Island of Nos Sancassee to the N.E. and Moormona Point on the west side ; the latter bearing N.E. ^ E. from the west point of Majambo Bay, distant about 15 leagues. The north point of Nos Sancassee is in lat. 14° 31' S., Ion. 47° 35' E. ; and between the reef that fronts it and Moor- mona Point, in lat. 14° 41' S., which is also fronted by a reef, the entrance into Narreenda Bay is full two leagues wide. Its general direction is about S.W. ^ S. extending about 8 leagues inland, and is 8 or 9 miles broad near the entrance, and 5 or 6 miles in breadth at the village Narreenda, situated on the banks of an inlet near the bottom of the bay on the eastern side. The general depths are 15 to 11 fathoms near mid-channel, and along the western shore ; 5 fathoms toward the bank on the Narreenda Bay. 222 MADAGASCAR, N. W. COAST. Tides. Luia River. Iladania Islands. Port Uailama. Itaminitoc Bav. Rafala Bay. eastern side, and 4, 5, and 6 fathoms where the anchorage is, opposite the village of Narreenda, where the governor resides. The deepest water is near the western shore. High water at 4^ hours, on full and change of the moon ; rise of tide 15 feet. Variation i2° West in 1824. There are passages for small vessels between Nos Sancassee and the eastern shore, formed by reefs which surround the two small islands that lie oft' the mouth of Luza River; this river has two fathoms on the bar at low water, with great depths inside, forming an excellent harbour, and its entrance is in lat. 14° 37' S., about 7 miles to S.E. ^ £. of Nos Sancassee. RADAMA ISLANDS, four in number, between lat. 14° 13' and 13° 56' S., are of considerable size, particularly Nossuvee, the central one, which fronts Port Radama, at 3 leagues' distance from its entrance: Point Blair, in lat. 13' 59' S., Ion. 47° 58' E., bounds the entrance of this port on the north side, and Point Inverarity to the South ; both have extensive reefs projecting far out from them, and several shoals and reefs front the entrance of Port Radama, with others inside, and lining its shores; but there are depths from 7 to 15 fathoms in the fair channel of this port, which is an inlet of the sea from 4 to 3 miles wide, extending first to the S.E. by E. about 3 leagues, and then to the southward a great way inland. Raminitoc Bay, formed to the southward of Point Inverarity, is extensive, and interspersed with .several shoals; its S.W. extremity, Point M'Cluer, being in lat. 14° 15' S., Ion. 47° 49' E., and Nossambilleha, the southernmost Radama Island, fronts the mouth of this bay, having a passage on either side of very irregular depths, from 20 to 5 or 6 fathoms. Rafala Bay is formed on the north side of Point Blair, and the great reef that projects 4 miles N.W. by W. from this point; reefs also stretch along the shores on both sides of this bay, which extends about 2 leagues inland, with depths usually from 9 to 4^ fathoms near the upper part. There are several shoal patches with only 2| or 3 fathoms water on them, at the distance of 2 leagues outside the Radama Islands, which render great caution neces- sary in any ship passing along this part of the coast, or intending to proceed into any of the bavs mentioned above. Dalrymple Bay. Passandava Bay. DALRYMPLE BAY entrance is in lat. 13° 30' S., Ion. 48° 2' E. the entrance, situated near the north extremity of the peninsula on the west side of the great bay Passandava. It has from 8 to 12 fathoms in the entrance, which is half a mile wide between the reefs, from 6 to 9 fathoms inside, and is recommended as particularly safe and commodious for wooding, watering, and refitting ships. When coming in, keep nearest to the west point of the entrance, which has, about 2^ or 3 miles to the N.W., a small island, called Passage Island, near the north point of the land ; when it bears West \^ miles, the course is directly South true bearing into Marbacool Bay, which abounds with fish, but is not inhabited ; a ship may anchor either in the south- eastern or south-western arm of the bay, in from 6 to 9 fathoms. PASSANDAVA BAY is a large and deep bight on the east side of the penin- sula already mentioned, extending in a southerly direction, from the entrance to the distance of 6 leagues. Ofl^ the east point of the bay lies the large island of Nos Beh, between which and the point, is the smaller island of Nos Cuba, with the little islet called the Nine Pin, about 4 miles South of the former and West of the latter, in lat. 13° 28' S., Ion. 48° 15' E. At the head of the bay, in lat. 13° 45' S., lies Passandava Town, about 2 miles off" which, the depths are 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, increasing to 20 MADAGASCAR, N. W. COAST. ' 223 and 22 fathoms towards the entrance, but not always reguhir. The great channel is to the westward of the islands, but there is a passage to the eastward of them, by which small vessels may enter the bay. Variation 12° 5' W. in 1824. High water Tides. at 5 hours on full and change of moon; rise of tide 15 feet. There is a watering place on the west side of the bay, inside of the two northernmost Mamoska Isles, which are small, with shoals projecting to the N.W. of them. Bullocks and refreshments, wood and water, may be procured in great plenty, and Supplies. on reasonable terms, at most of the above places. The inhabitants are shy to strangers, until acquainted with their business ; but they seemed to be an inofiensive, fair-dealing, and hospitable people. MARBACOOL BAY, situated close to the north-eastward of Passandava Bay, Marbacooi and formed by Nos Beh, and IMos Cuba on the West side, and on the East side by Chim- Ba?"'''''' paykee Island, and its adjoining peninsula, has depths from 12 to 5 fathoms, and appears to afford good shelter. But the wide Bay of Chimpaykee, on the east side of the peninsula and island of this name, is open to North and N.W. winds. From the Island Nos Beh, Cape St. Sebastian bears about N.E. ^ N., distant 18 leagues, the land forming a concavity between them, and from the Cape trends about S. by E. and South 10 leagues; then S. by W. and S.S.W. 9 leagues farther; from hence it turns sharp round to the West towards Nos Beh, forming Chimpaykee Bay, already mentioned. THE MINOW ISLANDS extend from lat. 13° 3' to 12° 43' S., the outermost Minow island. being 7 leagues distant from the land ; the North end of Great Minow Island is in lat. 12° 49^' S., Ion. 48° 39' E., from whence it extends in a narrow ridge S.W. by S. about 3 leagues, and here forming an acute angle, turns to the N.W. by N. about 5 miles farther, in a ridge of the same breadth, which is about 1 mile. There are several reefs amongst the small isles to the South and S.W. of Great Minow Island, with depths mostly from 10 to 20 fathoms between the isles ; and between them and the coast, 14 fathoms, decreasing to 6 and o fathoms toward the latter. Green Island lies in the channel inside of these isles, about two leagues oft' shore ; and the northernmost, or Little Minow Island, is 7 miles to the N.E. of the northern ex- tremity of Great Minow Island. CAPE ST. SEBASTIAN, in lat. 12° 26' S., Ion. 48° 46' E., by Captain Owen's capes.. survey, is the extremity of a crooked peninsula, that projects about 3^ leagues from l^apTAmh"^. the main land, formed of peaked hills, and having a large deep bay on the eastern side of the peninsula, with two small bays on the western side, one of whicli is 3 miles to the eastward of the extremity of the Cape : several isles front the latter bay, and two reefs or sandy isles lie off' the mouth of the large bay to the eastward. Several small islands encircle the Cape at a little distance, betwixt which and the Andromache Islands, that bear about W. by N. from 3 to 4| miles from the Cape, there is a channel with 18 to 24 fathoms water. Joseph Island, 3 miles North of Cape St. Sebastian and nearer the North point of the peninsula, has a narrow bank of 4 to 6 fathoms off" it towards Woody Island, to the extent of 3 miles, on each side of which bank, and round the island, the general depths are 10, 15, and 19 fathoms. Woody Island, in lat. 12° 16' S., is 7 miles N. by W. A W. from Joseph Island, having irregular depths near it of 5 to 14 fathoms, and 7 fathoms overfalls about 3 miles outside of it, on the edge of the bank of soundings ; there are also 4 fathoms 224 MADAGASCAR, N. W. COAST — EUROPA ROCKS. Outer sands. Liverpool, Jenkinson,and Robinson Poru. Bank of sound- ings between Cape St. An- drew and Nortli extreme of Ma- dagascar. Europa Rocks very danger- ous. overfalls on the edge of the bank, about 4^ leagues to the westward of the Cape, rendering great caution necessary in ships which approach this part of the coast ; but the depths farther in upon the bank usually increase to 30, 3-3, and 20 fathoms irregular soundings. From Cape St. Sebastian, the distance is about 1-5 leagues N.E. by E. to Cape Anibre ; the coast for the greatest part of the distance forms a very wide bay, named William Pitt Bay, by Capt. Owen, in which are several islands and shoals near the land, and others 3 or 4 leagues off, on the verge of the bank of soundings, where there are many 4 and 5 fathoms patches, and the following sands above water. Delight Sand in lat. 12° 13^' S., Ion. 48° 49' E. Magnet Sand in lat. 12° 18' S., Ion. 48° 55' E., and Moresby Island about 2 leagues farther to the E.N.E. towards the northern ex- treme point of Pitt Bay, which is also fronted by rocky shoals : inside of which, two bays are situated, with depths of 7 to 4 fathoms, the easternmost called Port Chan- cellor by Capt. Owen. Between the low peninsula that forms the north-eastern boundary of Pitt Bay and Cape Ambre, there are three deep inlets discovered by Capt. Owen, the shores of which are lined by reefs, but they appear capable of affording safe shelter for ships, and have been named Ports Liverpool, Jenkinson, and Robinson. The entrance of Port Liverpool is in lat. 12° 3' S., Ion. 49° 12' E. by the survey of that officer, with from 16 to 22 fathoms water, decreasing to 9 and 7 fathoms near the upper part of the harbour, which is about 4 miles in a S.E. direction from the entrance. The entrance of Port Jenkinson, distant about 2| miles N. Eastward from Port Liverpool, has depths 7 to 10 fathoms, decreasing to 5 and 4^ fathoms at the upper part, which is about if miles S. Easterly from the entrance, and is altogether much more contracted than Port Liverpool. The entrance of Port Robinson is in lat. 12° 1' S., distant 1^ miles N.E. of Port Jenkinson, and about 2 leagues to the S.W. of Cape Ambre, being nearly a quarter of a mile wide, with depths of 8 and 10 fathoms, and nearly the same inside, to the upper end of the harbour If miles to the E.S.E. of the entrance: this seems to afford complete protection from the wind and sea in every direction, but Port Liverpool is the most capacious of these harbours, being about one-third of a mile wide in the entrance between the reefs, opening to a spacious basin a little way inside. From Cape St. Andrew to the north end of Madagascar, a bank with soundings ex- tends along the whole of the coast, projecting from it 2 or 3 leagues in some places, and in others to the distance of 8 or 9 leagues from the shore. Ships drawing more than 12 feet water, should be very careful in approaching the edge of the bank, where in many places there are only 3 fathoms coral. Several of these coral flats are of consi- derable extent, and generally situated on the verge of the bank of soundings ; it is therefore requisite to keep a good look out from the mast-head for discoloured water, or keep a boat a-head sounding. The dangers now to be described are situated nearly in mid-channel, towards the southern entrance of the Strait of Madagascar. EUROPA ROCKS, or SHOAL, called Bassas da India by Capt. Owen, were seen by the Europa, December 24th, 1774, bearing from S.W. by S. to S.E. by S., dis- tant 2 or 3 leagues; the largest of the rocks appeared about the size of a long-boat, with the sea breaking over them, which makes it a very dangerous reef, for there are no soundings until very close to the rocks. Captain Huddart saw it in the Royal Admiral, August 23rd, 1784. Nothing was perceived above water, except scattered rocks like hay-ricks, though probably some MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL. — BASSAS DA INDIA. 225 part of tlie flat may dry at low water; at the exterior part, the sea break.s lieavy all round. The pinnace was sent to the I)ark of the surf, and sailed round the south and west sides in from 3 to 12 tathoms, within 20 or 30 yards of the breakers, while tlie sliip kept from al)Out 1 to 1^ miles oft' them, and had no soundina;s with 40 to 70 fathoms of line, for an extent of 14 miles on the soutli and west sides, but could not ascertain how far it extended to the eastward. The part visible lay in a direction from E. S.E. to VV.N.W. 13 miles, and from N.N.E. to S. S. W. 6 miles. The northernmost extreme of the shoal, was found to be in hit. 21° 28' S., and the western- I'osition i>y most part by chronometer in Ion. 3})° 58' E.* ^■''"- ""''''•"^'• The Company's ship Kellie Castle, on her passage to Bombay, saw this danger, May 21st, 1821, and passed to the westward about miles distant. When the small rocks like Haycocks on tlie N. E. end of the sJioal bore E. l)y S.,a large rock E. S. E., with a long dry .sand bank extending to the S.W., the S.W. end of the shoal then l>ore S.S. E. ^ E., with high breakers on this part ; and the limits of the danger were distinctly seen, except to the eastward. The north end of the slioal was observed to be in lat. 21° 27' S., and its western part in Ion. 39° 45' E. by observations on both sides of the moon taken two days previously, and carried on by chronometer, and in Ion. 39° 57' E. by observations of sun and moon taken on the 22nd, after passing the shoal. Capt. Owen, of H.M. ship Leven, examined this danger during his survey of those p.^iiion uy seas, and made the S. E. end, or East point of the shoal, in lat. 21° 29' S., Ion. .39° 41' E., '^"'"- ""'"• and the N.W. point in lat. 21° 26^ S., Ion. 3.9° 33' E. — The .south extremity is in lat. 21° 3U' or 21° 32' S. Variation 21° 9' W. close to it in 1824. BASSAS DA INDIA, t called Europa Island by Capt. Owen, which he places in isUnd Bassas lat. 22° 221' s.. Ion. 40° 24' E., is an island about 3 or 4 miles in diameter, of circular "ll' '"'''"; 'r . form, with an indentation on the north side ; and it is highest at the northern part, with several small hummocks in other places, and a sandy beach fronting tiie sea. Capt. Owen describes the island as easy of access, and abounding in turtle. He also makes it much larger than hitherto supposed, and suggests that it should be called Europa Island, and that Europa Rocks should be named Bassas da India. The David Scott, June 4th, 1804, having steered IN.E. by N. 4 miles from lat. 22° Account by 38' S., this island was seen from the mast-head at half-past 1 p.m., bearing E. by N. or (^"p'oin jones, . . I ' o •/ of the Daviii E. IN. E. about 5 leagues. At this time they .sounded, and had two casts, 55 and 52 Scou. fathoms rocky bottom. From hence, an E. N. E. course was steered to get a nearer view of the island, when at 5 p.m. the N.W. part bore S. 88° E., distant about 4 miles, and the other extreme S. 55° E. After having the two casts of ground when tlie island was tirst seen, no more soundings were obtained in standing towards it, and none are thought to be had at the distance of 2 or 3 miles. The journal describes it to be a low island witii many trees, and a white sandy beach along the west side, without any a])- pearance of siioals or rocks, and it may be seen from the mast-head at the distance of 5 or 6 leagues in clear weather. Capt. Jones, of the David Scott, made the body of the island in lat. 22° 28' S., Ion. 40° 34' to 40° 39' E. Variation 23|° W. * In a nm of three days, the Royal Admiral measured by chronometer 22^ miles East from the Europa Rocks, to the northernmost of the small islands on the coast of Angoxa, in lat. 16° 21|' S. t Named by the Portuguese discoverers Baxos da Judia, or the Banks of the Jewess ; and are still called so by that nation, as well as by all European navigators, except those of our country, where the first charts of these parts, copied from the Portuguese, having changed the letter u into an n, substituted tlie word India, for that of Judia. 2g 226 MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL. — WINDS AND CURRENTS. Account by Capt. Donald- son, of the Neptune. Position by Captain Rush, of the Royal Charlotte. Appearance of the island. Caution when making the mid-channel passage. The Neptune, Capt. Donaldson, March 27th, 1812, saw this island from the mast- head at lOf A.M. bearing N. by W. At noon it bore N. 40° W. to N. 70° W. distant 5 or 6 miles, the south end of the island then bore true West, and by good observation that part was found to be in lat. 22° 26|' S., Ion. 40° 37' 33''' E. by means of lunar observations and chronometers corresponding within 5 miles. The Royal Charlotte, Capt. Rush, in company with the Neptune, measured by chronometers 3° 44' East from Bassas da India to Saddle Island at the west end of Johanna, which is situated in Ion. 44° 21' E. ; by this measurement the former island will lie in Ion. 40° 37' E., corresponding with Capt. Donaldson's longitude, as stated above. Capt. Owen, nevertheless, in examining this island in 1825, made it 13 miles to the westward of these observations, as already noticed. When first seen from the Neptune it seemed merely a sand bank, but on a nearer view, was found to be covered chiefly with brush-wood excepting some trees on the North end, which made that part of the island look more elevated than the rest of it, although these trees were far from lofty. The east side of the island, and every part seen by these ships, had a beautiful white sandy beach, perhaps white coral, with the appearance of being safe to approach, as nothing like a reef or breakers could be discerned ; but a reef projects half a mile or more, from the south ond of the island. Variation near it 21° VV. in 1825. It has been already remarked, that the mid-passage through the Mozambique Chan- nel, seems preferable to that along the Madagascar shore, when ships are certain of the longitude ; but caution is requisite, when the parallels of Bassas da India, Europa Rocks, and Juan de Nova are approached in the night, for a ship might be close to the breakers before they were perceived, particularly in hazy weather, which prevails in this channel. Neither should the African coast be approached close, on account of southerly currents, and baffling winds, often experienced there. Periodical winds and currents. N.E. Mon- soon. WINDS AND CURRENTS. THE SOUTH-WEST MONSOON, which is the fair season in the Mozambique Channel, begins in April and continues till November ; the N. E. monsoon then com- mences, and prevails until April. During theS. W. monsoon, the winds vary from S.W. to S. E. and E. S. E. particu- larly near the south end of Madagascar, they blow often from S. E. and East, brisk and moderate breezes ; close to the African coast, land breezes are frequent. In mid- channel, they are more steady, generally blowing right through, when the distance is equal from either shore. But there are exceptions to this general observation, for in the southern part of the channel, light variable winds, and westerly currents, have sometimes retarded ships bound to India by this channel. From lat. 24° or 25° S. to 15° or 16° S. light variable winds from East and N. E., with westerly currents, have sometimes been experienced during the S.W. monsoon; this happened to the Sir Edward Hughes, in July, 1802, although at such times, southerly and south-easterly winds may be generally expected. THE N. E. MONSOON, commences early in November, at the northern part of the Mozambique Channel, but toward St. Augustine Bay, not till the end of this month, and seldom extends farther South, the prevailing winds between Cape Corrientes and the S.W. part of Madagascar being southerly, varying from S. E. to S.W. during both monsoons. CURRENTS — MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL PASSAGE. 227 In the Mozambique Channel, squalls from West to N.N.W. may at times happen during the S.VV. monsoon, but never continue long. It is chiefly during the N.E. monsoon that storms arise, when the S.E. and S.W. winds, which prevail without, are Squaiisand blowing strong ; these winds blow into the channel, and are resisted by the N.E. and N.W. winds, which produce a high turbulent sea, and sometimes whirlwinds, by their opposing force. At such times, the sky is overclouded, and the rain heavy. THE CURRENTS in the Mozambique Channel, during the N.E. monsoon, generally set to the southward along the African Coast, and also in the ofling, from 18 to 28 miles daily ; but on the coast of Madagascar, they run to the northward. On the African side, they set southerly most of the year, though they are liable to change in both monsoons, when the weather is precarious, and set to the northward for a short time. On the west coast of Madagascar, the current at times sets to the northward during the S.W. monsoon ; and on the African Coast, generally to the southward. It is often changeable about mid-channel. Among the Comoro Islands, and between Cape Ambre and the coast of Querimba, it sets westerly all the year round. Currents. THE CHANNEL PASSAGE. THE ROUTE BY THE MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL is more direct than any J^^l'^""^Jj"f^ other, for ships bound to Bombay, Ceylon, or the Coromandel Coast, when the S.W. comparea."^*'* monsoon prevails on those coasts, for it predominates in the Mozambique Channel at the same time. This route is generally preferred in times of peace : but in war, many navigators have adopted the passage to the eastward of Madagascar, where they are not so liable to light winds, nor to fall in with shoals, as in the inner passage. The passage outside of Madagascar, although the distance is greater, may, by these advan- tages, be made as quickly as the other ; and instances have occurred of ships sepa- rating to the eastward of the Cape, some adopting the inner passage, and others the outer passage, the latter arriving first at Bombay. In entering the Mozambique Channel, and bound to the Comoro Islands, a ship ^^^^'^'^^^j.'js/^;^ departing from Sandy Island, or having seen the land about St. Augustine Bay, may tii'e"outhwa"i. steer N. by W. or N.N.W., until 8 or 10 leagues from the shore, then steer about N. by E. or North. The direction of the coast to Point St. Felix, in lat. 22° 36' S. is about N.N.W. true, or rather more westerly in some places. A North and N. |^ W. course may be steered in the day, which is parallel to the coast as far as Point St. Felix, but in the night the coast should not be approached close, for high breakers stretch along it ; and it is low in several places near the sea, composed of sand downs, with verdure interspersed. Point St. Felix is a sand hill, with some trees on it. The variation here in ] 798, was 23° 30' W. In lat. 22° 4' S., nearly on the meridian of Point St. Felix, a small island is situated, formerly called First Island,* and 8 miles farther northward, is Second Island,! f^f^^^°"'^' already mentioned, and also Crab Island about 11 miles from the land, in lat. 21° 4' isian/s! S. About 5 miles N.E. of Second Island, the projecting part of the coast is called Cape St. Vincent, from whence it takes a N.N. Easterly direction towards Moroun- dava, having several sand banks between them, from 3 to 4 leagues off shore. * Called Murder Island by Capt. Owen. 2g t Called also Grave Island. 228 MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL PASSAGE. Sailing througli the cliunni'I lo the northuMrd. Current near the Comoro Islands. Of errors in nrTuking the channel. Current between M;ida. gascar and the Cape. Instances of errors in reckoniniT After leaving the coast about St. Augustine Bay, or Point St. Feiix, steer lo pass well to the westward of Crab I.sland, by getting 30 or 40 miles West of Sandy Island, w hen near the parallel of the former ; then steer true North, keeping about 40 or 45 miles West of tiie meridian of Sandy Island, which will lead to the westward of the I'racel Bank; and wlien near the latitude of the Island Juan de Nova, it will be proper fo reduce the longitude made by chronometers from Sandy Island, to about 25 miles West, in passing. This will carry a ship to the eastward of Juan de Nova, and the same meridian preserved, will lead to the westward of the Chesterfield Shoal. A good look-out is recjuisite when crossing the parallels of these two places, and from hence a direct course may be steered for Johanna, if to touch there; in such case, it will be proper to pass between it and Mohilla. If not to stop at any of the Comoro Islands, pass through any of the channels between them, or to the westward of Great Comoro, as circumstances rec{uire. Amongst these islands the current generally sets westward, rendering it prudent, when bound into Johanna, early or late in the season, not to fall to the westward of Mohilla, as the winds are frequently light and variable at lliese times. The route here described, is recommended in preference to that along the coast of Madagascar, over the Pracel Bank ; but the latter having been much used in former times it is proper to point out the contiguous dangers. The positions of the dangers in the Mozambicjue Channel being now tolerably well known, and since marine chronometers have become in general use, this route is much safer than formerly. Before the use of lunar observations and chronometers, ships running for the Mozambique Ciiannel, after leaving the Cape, or the Cape Bank, were liable to great errors in their longitude, in consequence of the strong S.W. and westerly currents. Many ships, after shaping a course for the middle of the channel, have fallen in with the African Coast. The Doddington, in 1756, steering in the night E.N.E. by compass, struck a little to the eastward of Algoa Bay, and most of the crew perished.* The Grosvenor, bound home, was wrecked farther to the north- eastward, 4th August, 1782; the crew and passengers, after reaching the shore, and suffering great hardships, were thought to have fallen a sacrifice to the natives, but three or four of them reached the Cape. Since that time other ships have been wrecked on this coast, from errors in their reckoning, and from westerly currents. Although the current generally sets to the West and S.W. between the south end of Madagascar and Cape Agulhas Bank, it sometimes sets to the south-eastward between Cape Corrientes and the Island Madagascar with considerable velocity, pro- ducing a contrary error in the reckoning. The Prince of Wales and Britannia, in company, in 1762, fell in with the land about midnight, near St. Augustine Bay, when they supposed themselves near mid- channel. The St. Jean Ba|)tiste, French Indiaman, was lost on the Star Bank in 1777, on account of the ship being to the eastward of her reckoning, and 39 only, of 120 people, were saved; these survivors reached St, Augustine Bay in the boat, and on landing were made slaves by the natives ; 19 only of the 39 survived their captivity, in whicii tiiey remained 7 months, and then were ransomed by a Dutch ship. The French ship, Notre Dame du Mont Carmel, in 1785, made the Star Bank, liaving experienced an easterly set of 4° from soundings on the Cape Bank. By the t^ead reckoning, this ship was near 6° to the eastward of the j)lace where she unfortunately struck, and went to pieces in ao minutes. COMORO ISLANDS. 229 These examples of errors in the reckoning, both to the eastward and westward, evince the propriety of caution in running for the Mozambique Channel, when not confident of the longitude. Ships bound to the jNIozambique Ciiannel, to guard against the south-westerly and tauiion in westerly currents, which may be expected after passing the Cape Bank, should not MManiuiVuc edge away too soon to the northward, particularly if it be intended to see the Coast of ci.anmi. Madagascar to the southward of St. Augustine Bay, or to stop there for refreshments. At most times, it will be proper to reacli Ion. 37° E. before crossing the parallel of 34° or 35° S., or shaping a direct course for tlie channel. It was the practice of most navigators to get a sigiit of Madagascar, near St. Middicand Augustine Bay, and then to steer a course along this side of the channel, to get pa",sagei eom- soundings on the Pracel Bank, on which are several dangers, and the soundings pared. mostly coral rock ; and there are other dangerous spots in several places near this shore: it therefore appears, that the track near mid-channel is preferable when tiie longitude can be relied on ; for here the winds are more steady, and no dangers except the Bassas da India and Europa Rocks, the parallels of which must be crossed with great caution particularly during the night. These may be passed either to the westward, or eastward ; and when to the northward of them, a course should be steered to pass to the westward of the Island Juan de Nova, direct for Mohilla, or Comoro. Although the mid-channel track was seldom frequented, from a dread of the Bassas da India and Europa Rocks, it appears preferable to the route along the Madagascar shore, when the navigator is confident of his longitude ; for many ships have been in great danger, by falling in unexpectedly with straggling islets or reefs near the coast of Madagascar. With a steady wind at South or S.S.W. the track to the westward of the Bassas da India and Europa Rocks seems preferable to that along the coast of Madagascar, it being clear of dangers. If a ship approach the African coast, she may be subject to light winds and southerly currents : but in mid-channel, the monsoon is generally strong, and more steady, than on either side of it ; although iu Ajiril, and early in May, the best winds will be found, by steering between Comoro and tlie African coast, rather to the westward of the mid-channel track. COMORO ISLANDS, AND ADJACENT DANGERS. COMORO, the largest and highest of these four islands, gives its name to the Comoro others, which are Mohilla, Mayotta, and Johanna : they are all very high, and may '" be seen at the distance of from 14 to -20 leagues in clear weather. Tiie inhabitants are Mahometans, descendants of Arabs incorporated with Africans, and at present, they are generally found to be courteous and hospitable.* * The natives of Comoro appear not to have merited this character when the Company's ships first traded to India, for the Penelope had part of her crew enticed on sliore, and destroyed by the inhabitants of this island. 230 COMORO ISLANDS. Grand Comoro. Anchorage. Supplies. Tides. Comoro, called also Angazecha, is about 12 leagues in length North and South, and about 5 or G leagues broad. The anchorage at this island is inconvenient, and water not easily procured ; European ships, therefore, do not now visit it, though formerly they sometimes touched here for supplies. The anchorage is at the N.W. part of the island, said to be in lat. 11° 18' S., about li or 1| miles to the westward of Muchamahola, the King's Town, opposite to a small sandy beach, but it is not advisable for a ship to anchor under 30 or 35 fathoms water, for in this depth she will only be distant from the breakers about 2 cables' lengths. Tiiis remark was given by Captain Webber, who was there in the Oxford, in 1 759, and the bearings recommended for anchorage are, the easternmost point of land in sight East, King's Town, E.S.E. and the black rocky point S, by W. The Suffolk at anchor in 24 fathoms, sandy ground, had the King's Town E. ^ S., distant near 2 miles, the easternmost land E. by N., and a black bluff point, like two rocky islands, S.S.W. Captain Mitcham says, a ship may anchor with the easternmost land in sight E. by N., and the black bluff point S. by W. i W. ; but these and the Suffolk's bearings are probably too close for a large ship. Excepting the anchorage at the N.W. end, the island is generally steep, having no soundings at a small distance from the shore; there are, indeed, two small bays, called Ingando and Moroon, to the northward of the S.W. point, where the bottom is coral, and the depth 35 fathoms within a cable's length of the breakers, but no vessel should anchor there ; more especially as a reef of breakers is said to extend from the S.W. part of the island to a considerable distance, with shoal coral patches beyond the breakers, upon which a ship returning from Bombay to England a few years ago, was nearly lost. If a ship intend to anchor at this island, she ought to have the boats prepared to tow when it is approached, for she will be liable to baffling light airs and calms, the high land obstructing the regular monsoon, and the tides, which are strong, may be liable to drift her past the anchorage, if precaution is not taken to counteract their impulse. The town is large, with many coco-nut trees, and a sandy beach before it ; at low tide a boat cannot land, as shoal water extends 3 quarters of a mile from the town, which is the only landing place. Steering for the anchorage, a boat should be sent a-head to sound, for the bank is steep, and the distance small, from 35 fathoms on its outer edge, to 12 fathoms close to the breakers. Ships might be sheltered from the southerly monsoon, but it would be dangerous with strong N.W. winds, which how- ever seldom happen, particularly during summer, when the southerly monsoon pre- dominates. Bullocks, sheep, goats, and tropical fruits are plentiful, but no water to be procured. In 1759, the price of bullocks was settled by the king, from 4 to 6 dollars each ; and it is prudent to give him a present when a supply is wanted. High water at 4f hours, and the tides are strong and rise about 12 feet on the springs. The S.E. point of Comoro is by Capt. Owen in lat. 11° 54' S., and Ion. 43° 33' E. Mohiiia. MOHILLA, at one time was considered, of all these islands, the best for obtaining refreshments; but the preference, for many years, has justly been given to Johanna, an account of the anchorage being safer than at any of the others. Mohilla is the smallest of these islands, distant about 6 leagues S.S.E. from Comoro, and about 5 COMORO ISLANDS. 231 leagues West of Johanna. The north point is in lat. 12° 36' S., Ion. 43° 50' E., and the most elevated part is near the N. VV. end, but it is not so high as Comoro or Johanna. At the south end of the island, are several small isles,* with a coral reef around them, behind which Van Keulen describes good anchorage, with 8 or 9 fathoms Anchorage. least water, in crossing the coral reef to the eastward of these isles, where the ground is plainly seen, but no danger. The soundings within the reef, are said to be from 45 to 30 fathoms sandy bottom, where is the anchorage. There is also an anchoring place near the shore, at the north part of Mohilla, and one on the east side, where refreshments may be obtained. Captain Wilson, of the Suffolk, who was at this island in May, 1756, at noon, Capi. wiisons observed the lat. 12°29'S., extremes of Mohilla bearing from E. i N. to N.N.E., 3°"i,or°ge'.' distance from the islands off the S.W. part 5 miles, the high land of Comoro North. They passed these islands at the distance of 4 or 5 miles, and when clear of them, hauled in for the N.W. end of Mohilla ; no ground with 40, 50, and 60 fathoms of line was obtained in rounding the island. About 2 miles short of the N.W. point of the island, there is a black rock always above water, which lies about 2 miles from the shore ; in passing this about 2 miles distant, had no ground with 30 and 40 fathoms. The reef of rocks above water, which projects from the N.W. point of Mohilla about a quarter of a mile, was passed about the distance of Ij miles, no ground 30 fathoms ; when clear of the point, and the land opening to the eastward, hauled in for it, and soon got soundings 30 fathoms, small stones and coral, decreasing to 15 fathoms as the shore was approached. On edging off to 24 fathoms, a small town was seen on a bluff hillock, close to the sea. Having previously sent a boat to examine this place, stood in, with boats a-head sounding, and anchored at 6 p.m. in 24 fathoms, small stones, shells, and coral, then moored with the stream to the north- ward, in 26 fathoms, off shore 3 quarters of a mile, the N.W. point of Mohilla bore W.S.W., the easternmost extreme E. by S. ^ S., and the town S.S.W. The watering place at this town was found to be about 200 yards from the beach, waiering up an easy ascent, but the run of water was in a ravine about 12 feet deep, wliich '''"^^* seemed to have been formed by the torrents from the hills; this was steep, which made it necessary to fill the casks with the engine ; they were then rolled with great ease from the beach, which is soft sand. The run of water is clear, and constant from the mountains, but is lost among the rocks and sand, about 10 yards below the place where the casks were filled, and it was observed to issue from the beach after- wards at low water. A reef of rocks extends from the point on which the town is built, across the little bay where the watering place is, to two rocks to the east- ward, which are always above water ; this prevents boats working the last quarter ebb, and the first quarter flood, as the reef is dry at low water. High water at 6 i""i«s. hours at full and change of moon ; the tide rises 15 feet, and sets along shore, the flood to the westward, but changes before the water has done rising, as does the stream to the eastward before it has done falling. Mr. Jackson, the second oflicer, was sent at day-light, 29th, in the pinnace to Mr. jackson-s examine the coast to the eastward, between this place and the King's Town; he tilie coast'"" ""^ returned next day, and reported that the King's Town is about 4 leagues S.E. by S. ; that the coast between it and where the ship lay is very dangerous, having several * In the Company's ship, James Slbbald, Captain Forbes, December IStli, ISia, in passing IMohiUa, a large Rock or Islet seen, appeared to be situated about 6 or 7 miles to the eastward of the body of the island. 232 COMORO ISLANDS. reefs of rocks projecting- far out into the sea; that a ship cannot lie nearer than 2 miles from the laiul off the King's Town; that there is a great surf on the shore, and that boats cannot go in after ebb. The watering place is a mile beyond the town, and not convenient, there being a chopping sea whicii prevented the boat's rowing. He landed, and walked about 4"miles farther along sliore to the S.S.E., and came to a large run of water, like that of Johanna. The coast appeared very rocky, and i>eing*open to the S.E., a heavy swell came in, and tiie surf was great on the shore, wliich would, apparently, make it very difhcult to water there. Fruit was had in abundance where the Suffolk lay, but only 27 bullocks could be procured, and many of them small. She weighed June 4th, at mid-day, and the first cast after the anchor was up, was only 15 fathoms, deepening gradually to 40 fathoms, at the distance of about 5 miles from the shore, steering N.N.E, to N.E. ; afterwards no ground, capt. Mil- Captain Mitcham describes the anchorage on the east side of Mohilla to be in chams descrip. nnuldy grouud , betwixt two reefs or shoals, when an islet or rock will bear S. by E. anchorage. ^ E., tiic southemuiost poiut S.E. by S., and the westernmost point in sight, low and flat, with some trees on it, and a reef of rocks dry at low water N.W. |N., dis- tance 3 miles. The Kings Town is near this point, but ships cannot anchor there, the ground being foul. The Winciielsea, in 1762, anchored in 22 fethoms, on the north side of Mohilla, about half a mile to the eastward of a place where she watered; Johanna bore from E. 9°S. to E. 27° S., South part of Comoro N. ^ W. to N. 21° W. and Mohilla the N.N.E. point, called Coco-nut-tree Point, S.E. distant 4 or 5 miles, the N.N.W. point West, distant 3 miles ; observed on shore at the watering place in lat. 12° 13|' S. The bottom was rocky, as the cable was injured, and the hawser cut in two. In 1749, the Warren, Captain Glover, lay some time within the isles which front the South part of Mohilla. Mayotla. Andiorage. Saddle Island. MAYOTTA, the easternmost of the Comoro Islands, bears from Johanna about S.E., the breadth of the channel between them being al)0ut 10 leagues. On the South part of Mayotta, there is a sharp conical mountain called Valentine Peak, which makes it easily known. By selecting a number of observations made by different navigators, this Peak appears to be in lat. 12° 54' S., Ion. 45° 15' E. The island extends S.S.E. and N.N.W., the southern extremity being in about lat. 13° 5'S., and the N.W. part, where is the anchorage, in lat. 12° 42' S. This island is completely surrounded by a coral reef, to the distance of 3, 4, and 5 miles in some places. There is, however, an opening in the reef at the north part of the island, leading to a place of anchorage, which has been visited by English ships in former times, when they wanted refreshments ; or when this island happened to be mistaken for Johanna. A Saddle Island, like that of Johanna, is situated at the N.W. end of Mayotta, which is thouglit to have occasioned the mistake here mentioned ; between Saddle Island and the reef to the eastward of it, is the channel which leads to the anchorage, having deep water in the east side, near the sunken reef; but, towards Saddle Island, there are only 5, G, and 7 fathoms, on a spit projecting to the N.E. and Eastward. Within this island the depths are from 16 to 30 fathoms in proceeding to the anchor- age near the town, whicli is about 4 or 5 miles South-eastward from the island, and abreast a bluff headland with rocks overhanging the sea. To the southward and S.W. of Saddle Island, reefs and breakers extend 4 and 5 miles from the shore. COMORO ISLANDS. 233 The channel leading to the anchorage, at the N.W. end of Mayotta, is imperfectly channel lead- known, not liaving been frequented by English ships these many years; tliereft)re, i,'^'^,'",^''*. any ship intending to touch there for refreshments should keep boats sounding a-head, until she reach the anchorage, which is in 20 and 28 fathoms, sandy bottom. It is high water on full and change, at 5| hours; the rise of tide 11 or 12 feet. TiH^s. Variation oft' Mayotta in 1824 was 12° 5' W. Ships are frequently liable to calms and light winds near these islands, particularly winds and at the changes of the monsoons, when the currents are also variable. It' carried to '""''""• the eastward of Mayotta, at such times, by the current, take care to avoid a supposed supposed reif. reef, said to lie nearly 4 leagues oft' shore. When the north point of Mayotta bore N.W. by N. and the south point S.W. by W. G or 7 leagues, this reef bore N.W. by W. distant 2 leagues : it appears to have been seen by the Devonshire, 10th December, 1766, at 4 P.M., when Mayotta bore from S. by E. to W.S.W,, the three small isles off its north end from W.S.W. to West, distant from the nearest shore 3 leagues, breakers were then seen from the mast-head bearing N.W. by N. JOHANNA, or ANZUAN, is more frequented by European ships, than any .lohanna other place of refreshment in the Mozambique Channel ; it is higher than Mohilla or ^»''""' Mayotta, though not so much elevated as Comoro. The mountain called the Peak has not this appearance in every view, but it is rather of an oblong form ; it is situated near the east part of the island. This Peak is in lat. 12° 15' S., Ion. 44° 34' E. by mean of lunar observations, taken in ten different ships, at various times. The south extremity of the island is in about lat. 12° 25' S., and the anchorage of the bay is on the north side, in lat. 12° 7^' S., Ion. 44° 30' E.* The island is of a triangular form, with rocky reefs extending from its extremities ; and from the S.W. to the N.W. point, the shore is bounded by a reef, to the distance of 2 miles from it in many places. Ships, of approaching therefore, should not in light winds come too near the southern shore of this island, in "^'^ ^'"^'""■"s*- case of a calm ensuing, and the current or swell drifting them on the reef;f but they ought to steer direct to the N.W. point, near which is a small island, from its form called Saddle Island, connected with the main island by the reef already described, which surrounds the island to a considerable distance. This island should not be passed nearer than 2 miles, as the foul rocky ground extends from it about a mile on the north and 2 miles on the west side, and is steep to, having no soundings with 20 fathoms close to its outer edge. If a ship happen to pass too near, and have soundings on the verge of the foul ground oflf Saddle Island, she ought to edge away to the north- ward immediately ; for it is dangerous to make free with this foul ground or reef, there being great overfalls and shoal water on its outer verge ; and farther in, it is nearly dry at low water spring tides. When past Saddle Island, which is the western boundary of the large bay on the north side of Johanna, she should steer along to the anchorage, hauling up gradually for the shore, on account of the reef which extends from Saddle Island about 4 miles along shore to the eastward, and the shoal water on it is gene- rally visible. When thus far advanced, the sudden gusts, wiiich often blow from the hills, make it prudent to keep in with the land in sailing to the anchoring place, which is about 3 or 4 miles to the westward of the town, abreast a range of coco-nut trees, * Captain Owen makes the town in Ion. 44° 27' E ; or 3° 40' East of Mozambique Flagstaff, and 26° 1' East from the Devil's Mount at Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope. t The Brilliant, in 1782, drifted towards the shore, and was wrecked on the reef, at the S.W. part of the island ; and several other ships, only by great exertion, have been towed clear of it by their boats, when be- calmed near the S.W. side of this island. 2 H 234 COMORO ISLANDS. Capt. Jloflat's (lirm'tions. Best nncbor- age. Watering places. Reefs. Tides. Reef. AV'ater and other refresh- ments. Caution. near tlie sea, called Brown's Gardens ; and having a large black rock to the eastward betwi.xt tiiein and the town. The rivulet where the water is procured is at the western e.\tremity of Brown's Gardens. Captain Mofllit, who in 1814 made a survey of the bay of Johanna, says — care should betaken not to make too free with the shore, after luffing round Saddle Island. It may be approached very close in some parts, but a distance of 1^ miles is sufficiently near to venture, for in several places coral rocks extend out to a consider- able distance. This is the case to the eastward of the Black Rock, also to the westward of the foit. Be on your guard, by having your ship under proper sail for working, as flurries of wind often blow from the land ; and when you approach near the Black Rock, luft" in if you can, and get soundings, and be ready to tack if you cannot fetch into the anchorage. Keep the deep sea-lead going, when standing towards the shore, with the hand-lead also ready. Have the boats ready to tow, in case it should fall calm, as they may often be found very useful. The most convenient berth for mooring is abreast the rivulet bearing S. by W., with the Peak S. by E. ^ E., the Mosque East, and the extremes of the bay N.E. Easterly to N.W. by W.* In this situation, with the inner anchor in 10 fathoms, a ship will be a quarter of a mile or more from the shore at low water, and a line of light cordage may be extended from the ship to a small anchor or grapnel near the shore, to con- duct the boats on board with water, and they may haul off to the anchor by a rope placed from it to the shore. The anchorage here is good holding ground. There is another watering place, with good anchorage off it, some distance to the westward of the Black Rock, and Brown's Gardens ; and a third watering place, near raid-way between the Black Rock and the town. There is also a fourth place, where the water comes through the first coco-nut tope to the eastward of the town, but the anchorage before the town being very indifferent, it is not frequented ; for here, with the outer anchor in 25 fathoms, and the other in 7 fathoms, a ship will not be distant from the shore above 2 cables' lengths at low water. Between Brown's Gardens and the Mosque Town there is areef of rocks projecting from the shore near a quarter of a mile, dry at low water. Having anchored at high water, a ship may appear to be at a proper distance from the shore ; but the declivity from the beach at this part being very gradual, and the rise of tide considerable, she may at low water, when the rocks appear, be found to have anchored very near them ; the best berth is, therefore, abreast the proper watering place, already mentioned. High water at 3^ hours on full and change ; the rise 8^ feet perpendicular. Variation 13° 45' W.in 1822. At the eastern extremity of the bay, a reef of sand and coral lines the shore along the N.E. part of the island, having deep water on its outer edge. The water at Johanna is excellent, but wood is a scarce article. The bullocks are small, weighing 300 or 350lbs. each, but the meat is good. Goats, kids, and poultry, may also be procured at high prices. On the whole, this is a proper place for obtain- ing refreshments, or restoring to health a scorbutic crew, for the island abounds with coco-nuts, limes, oranges, plantains, and other tropical fruits ; yams and sweet potatoes, may also be procured. As the wind blows from the hills and valleys in variable gusts, it is prudent to bring a ship under proper sail on approaching Saddle Island, for hauling close to the wind, or for tacking, should that be requisite before she reach the anchorage. * The Cirencester, abreast the -watering place, at anchor in 16 fathoms, had the extremes of the Bay from N.E. i N. to Saddle Island W.N.W., and the town E. i N., off shore f a mUe. I COMORO ISLANDS. 235 The natives are hospitable, but they possess a considerable degree of low cunning', ciiaractcrof and some of them are addicted to theft. ""* ^'=""'"- In November the weather is precarious ; heavy rains are then expected, with the wcmiicr. changing of the monsoon, which generally happens about the middle of the month ; the northerly monsoon then commencing, it is considered not perfectly safe to remain in Johanna Road during these northerly winds, at times liable to blow strong. The Currents. currents are variable about this island, particularly at change of the monsoons, but their general course is to the S. Westward. THE DANGERS probabli/ existing in the vicinity of the Comoro Islands are the following : — FIREBRASS SHOALS, seen by the ship of this name in 1682, and by the Firebras. Devonshire in 1706, were lately considered doubtful ; but their existence lias been ''''°'''*' ascertained in the barque Rover, southern whaler, and the following description is given by Mr. Butcher, of that vessel: "April 21st, 1831, at li p.m. discovered a large and dangerous shoal, in lat. 12° 22' S., Ion. 46° 20' E., extending E.S.E. and W.N.VV. about 10 miles, 4 or 5 miles of which dries at half ebb, and the other parts are con- spicuous with high breakers. When the centre of the shoals bore N. by E. ^ E. distant about 2 leagues, had soundings of 12 to 8 fathoms rocks and sand. From hence steered to the W.S.W., and on making Mayotta, found the observations for longitude by means of lunars and chronometer were correct." The Borneo whaler was lost 22ud July, 1832, by striking on a coral shoal, said to be in lat. 12° 17' S., Ion. 46° E., which was probably one of the Firebrass shoals. LEVEN BANK, of soundings of various depths, apparently not dangerous, dis- Uvcn nank. covered by Captain Owen in his survey of these seas, extends from lat. 12° 21' to 12° 44' S., and from Ion. 47° 46' to 47° 57' E. ; and another bank, in lat. 12° 24' S., Ion. 48° 25' E., was discovered between the former and the coast of Madagascar. Ships passing to the eastward of Mayotta ought to proceed with much circumspec- tion, as there may possibly exist other banks or dangers, not yet discovered. Near Grand Comoro, a shoal or bank is placed by the Portuguese distant 3 leagues Douhttui from the S.W. point of Comoro; it is said to be 5 or 6 leagues long, N.W. and ^^°^^'" S.E., having 6 fathoms on the south part, and 4 fathoms on the N.W. part, at half flood. A reef of breakers, about 8 or 10 leagues to the westward of Comoro, is said to have been seen in the Devonshire, in 1764, and appeared to extend N.E. and S.W. about 2 miles in length. These seem to be very doubtful, as many ships have passed to the westward of Comoro without perceiving any appearance of danger. ST. LAZARUS BANK, in about lat. 12° S., said to be 12 or 14 leagues to the st. Lazarus eastward of the Querimba Islands, is very little known, although several ships have ^''"''' sounded on it. The Dorset had soundings of 12 to 18 fathoms on it in 1737, in lat. 11° 56' S., and 1° 10' E. from the main, and the south part seemed very shoal. The Edgecote had 10 and 12 fathoms on it in 1757, in lat. 12° 4' S., and 1° 12' E. from Querimba; and the Raymond, in 1784, in lat. 12° 13' S., about 33 miles East from Cape Delgado, had soundings on it. The soundings obtained on it by these ships, seem to have been from 9 to 50 fathoms ; but the extent of this bank, its real distance 2 H 2 236 COMORO ISLANDS, TOWARDS INDIA. Iroin the adjacent coast, and from Comoro, and whether or not any part of it is dan- gerous, remain imperfectly ascertained. The Portuguese describe it to be dangerous. The Kaunitz, Imperial ship, in 1791, is said to have seen breakers from the quarter-deck bearing East, distant about 3 leagues, when the land was visible to the westward, about 11 leagues' distance: Mr. Osborn, 1st officer, made this shoal in Ion. 42° 25' £. by lunar observation, and it is said to be in lat. 1 1° 3' S. ; although this does not agree with the latitude assigned to St. Lazarus Bank, they are considered by some as the same shoal. FROM THE COMORO ISLANDS, TOWARDS INDIA. DANGERS— PASSAGES OF SHIPS, SHEWING WINDS AND CURRENTS— DIRECTIONS. DANGERS. In addition to the dangers of the Seychelle and Amirante Islands, and those to the northward of Madagascar, already described, the following, although doubtful, should be noticed. Bassas de Patram, doubtful. BASSAS DE PATRAM is a doubtful shoal, there being no satisfactory account concerning it, unless that given by Captain Wilson, of the Pitt, may be considered as such. His journal states, August 16th, 1758, that breakers were seen from the mast-head, bearing from E. by N., to E.N.E., distant 5 leagues, supposed to be the Bassas de Patram. He made them in lat. 4° 30' S., and 50 miles East of Comoro hy account. Bassas de Ambre, doubtful. BASSAS DE AMBRE, thought to have been seen in H.M. ships Norfolk and Panther, May 17th, 1760, on their passage from Johanna towards India : the sand was visible in several places, and the bank appeared about 9 miles in extent. They made 5° 49' mer. distance East from Johanna, and the lat. about 0° 9' S. It is sometimes placed in 51° 50' E., whereas, the run of these ships from Johanna would place it in about Ion. 50"^ 30' E. The Huddart, in August, 1803, saw what appeared to be broken water, which they supposed might be the Ambre Shoal, lat. 0° 5' S., Ion. by chron. 48° 50' E. But neither this, nor Bassas de Patram, are now believed to exist. The Essex, from Johanna to Bombay. PASSAGES OF SHIPS, SHEWING WINDS AND CURRENTS. THE ESSEX, bound to Bombay, got the winds from the northward 15th Sept., 1791, and reached Johanna the 28th. She left this island October 3rd, and the day following was drifted by the current to the westward of Comoro, almost close to the COMORO ISLANDS, TOWARDS INDIA. 237 rocks, during the night, when calm ; the current, which swept round a point of the island, was then deflected by the bkUf rocky shore, and she had no soundings, although the boat lay upon a rock where the water was shoal, at a small distance in shore. From hence she had S.E. winds to the equator, and crossed it on the 15th ; S.W. and westerly winds then prevailed till in kit. 6° N. : winds from N. N.VV. followed till in lat. 10° N. on the 27th ; she had afterwards N. IN. E. and northerly winds until her arrival at Bombay, 17th November. H. M. S. LEOPARD, Commodore Blankett, bound to the Red Sea, anchored at The Leopard Johanna, October 29th, 1798 ; and the Daedalus saw the Island of Mayotta on the same ?rom'cTm!ro day, but did not reach Johanna Road till the 5th November, owing to light winds and Wamistothu southerly currents. They sailed on the 11th, had light variable winds, made the coast ^''''^"■ of Africa on the 24th, in lat. 0° 44' N. ; the current began to run strong to the south- ward along the coast, sometimes more than 2 miles an hour, during tiie time they con- tinued to beat against it and the north-easterly winds, until the 14th February, 1799, without gaining ground. During this period, they were generally within 30 miles on either side the equator, and kept near the shore. Provisions began to fail, and the Daedalus was dispatched, I4th January, to the Cape of Good Hope, after transporting most part of her provisions to the Leopard. Tiiis ship, with the Orestes sloop in com- pany, continued to beat without effect till the 14th February, when they bore away for Zanzibar to procure provisions and refreshments, and arrived there on the 20th. They sailed again on the 5th of March, coasted along to the northward, and had now the current generally favourable, but the wind often contrary. Continuing to coast along shore, they passed Cape Guardafui, (Ras Jar d'Afoon) April 8th, and anchored the 1 1th, in Aden Road. His Majesty's ship Imogene, Captain Hart, left Zanzibar, February 7th, 1834, kept Route of near the equator, crossed it in Ion. 58° E., stood then to the northward till near ^^'J^'^' ''""■ Socotra, March 12th, and reached Bombay on the 29tli, with continued N. E. and N.N.E. winds. THE ASCENSION was close to the Comoro Islands, late in October, 1G08, and The Ascension, had stormy weather in the southern part of the Mozambique Channel; she touched at i°\Tnds''w'"° the Island Pemba on the African coast to obtain refreshments, but was obliged to ^'^^"• leave it in consequence of the perfidy of the natives, who at first appeared friendly, but afterwards enticed some of the crew on shore, and then assaulted them. After leaving this place, she continued to beat at sea until she fell in with a group of uninhabited islands,* abounding with coco-nuts, and other refreshments. The contrary winds con- tinued till late in March, which prevented her reaching Aden Road before April. f THE MARY, Captain Oyles, from England, bound to the Gulf of Persia, left Table The Mary, Bay, Cape of Good Hope, 15th August, 1694, saw the coast of Natal in lat. 29.|° S., Go?d Hope to the 7th September, having experienced a current of 180 leagues to the westward from Persian cuif. * Probably some of those in the Seychelle Archipelago. t Captain Saris, with the Clove, Hector, and Thomas, left Mohilla in November, 1611, made the coast of Mehnda in December, and were carried back to 5° S. by the currents. They made Cape Bassas, January 1st, 1612, had strong easterly winds here, and southerly currents; but more to the southward, hght airs and strong ripplings when they stood out to seaward. From Cape Orfui, vv'hich they made early in February, they stood out to sea, and saw it again 8 days after, owing to westerly currents, and arrived at Tamarida Road, in the Island Socotra, having a passage of 14 weeks from Mohilla, against the monsoon. These ships made a pas- sage by keeping mostly out from land, while the Leopard could not effect it along the coast. 238 COMORO ISLANDS, TOWARDS INDIA, Conclusions from the fore- going passages. leavinj? Table Bay. She had light winds and southerly currents in the Mozambique Channel, watered at Johanna, sailed from thence on the 4th November, had variable li"-ht winds and calms, passed between the African Isles and those of the S.W. part of the Seychelle Archipelago on the 6th December, then stood to the eastward on the south side of the island of Mahe and those near it ; left the eastern edge of the bank on the 21st Dec. and steered East and N. E. for a few days with variable winds be- tween North and S.W., which veered to N. E. and East when near the equator; steered tlien between N. N. E. and N. N. W., making a tack to the eastward at times. Saw the east end of Socotra on the 16th January, 1695, having experienced 140 leagues of westerly current since leaving Johanna ; saw the coast of Arabia near Cape Chansley on the 20th, had here land and sea winds from N, E. to S. E., which drew to the southward when off Cape Isolette, with which, rounded the Island Mazeira on the .30th, made an occasional tack at times, passed Ras-el-had 1st February, and arrived 18th at Gombroon. These ships being late in the season, ought to have avoided the Mozambique coast. Had they proceeded to the eastward of the Mada- Garcia and the Seychelle Islands, the Essex would probably have reached Bombay more speedily ; and the others destined for Aden and the Red Sea, by following the same route, then keeping within a few degrees of the western limit of the Maldiva Islands until they had reached lat. 6° or 7° N., and met with N. N. Easterly winds, there is reason to think their passage would not have been very tedious. DIRECTIONS. Channel and the African gascar, and between Diego Mozambique Channel not proper after September. From Comoro Islands, toward India. From the Erjuator to. wards Bombay. WHETHER BOUND TO THE RED SEA, the Persian Gulf, or to India, it improper to proceed through the Mozambique Channel after September, on seems account of liaht baffling winds and strong S.W. and southerly currents, which frequently prevail in October and November among the Comoro Islands. From Johanna, towards India, a course about N.N.E. is proper to the parallel of lat. 8° S. ; to avoid falling in with the Aldabra Islands, and in crossing their latitude, a good look-out is requisite. From the parallel of 8° S. a course more easterly ought to be steered, to cross the equator in Ion. 53° or 54° E., taking care to avoid Alphonse Island near the parallel of 7° S., and the African Islands near the parallel of 5° S. By crossing the equator well to the eastward, the position assigned to the Ambre Shoal will be avoided. In running from the Comoro Islands to the equator, during the southerly monsoon, the winds generally prevail at S. S. Eastward, increasing in strength as the latitude is decreased ; and they veer to S. S.W. and S.W. in North latitude. From the equator, a ship bound to Bombay may steer a direct course for that place, taking care to get on the parallel of the Island of Kanary, at a considerable distance from the coast, and then steer directly East for it. In steering East for the entrance of Bombay Harbour, the soundings denote the approach to the land. On the parallel of Kanary, at the distance of 40 leagues to the westward, the depths are from 52 to 60 fathoms ; at 20 leagues' distance, 46 and 48 fathoms ; at 10 leagues' distance, 36 or 37 fathoms ; and 5 leagues West from it, 19 or 20 fathoms. At the conclusion of the southerly monsoon, a ship leaving the Comoro Islands should steer more easterly than during the strength of the southerly winds, to coun- teract the prevailing westerly currents. If bound from the Mozambique Channel, or from Mauritius, to the southern part of SOUTH COAST OF AFRICA. 239 the Malabar Coast, or to Colombo, near the close of the S.W. monsoon, a ship may From Mozam- steer a course from the equator to pass through the Eight or Nine Degrees Channel ; or'Maur'lfi"",^' but if bound to the south part of Ceylon, or the Coromandel Coast, the One-and-a- t" South pan Half Degree Channel seems preferable, being more direct, and equally safe as the colst^oM" former. Ceyion. In passing through the Nine Degree Channel in thick weather, and uncertain of the exact latitude, if the Island Minicoy is seen, pass on either side, as seems most expe- dient ; but great caution is requisite in approaching any of these islands in thick weather, or in light winds, for they are all very low, with extensive coral reefs conti- guous to them ; close to which, there are no soundings. If this channel is adopted when bound to the Coromandel Coast, and certain of being to the eastward of Minicoy, a direct course may be steered for Point de Galle: if uncertain of the longitude, steer to the eastward, until soundings are obtained on the bank adjacent to Cape Comorin, any where between lat. 8° 4' N., and 9° N. The depths are from 45 to 50 fathoms 8 or 9 leagues off the coast, at which distance the high land will be easily seen in clear weather ; but the weather being generally hazy during the S.W. monsoon, the land is seldom visible until near it ; a course, therefore, must be steered to the southward, when soundings are obtained. In steering from Cape Comorin for Point de Galle, a course should be adopted to place a ship in the latitude of the latter, at a reasonable distance from it, for the current at times sets into the Gulf of Manar; and near Point de Galle, the wind is sometimes at S.S.W., which might cause considerable delay, were a ship not able to clear the S.W. extremity of Ceylon with that wind.* If the position be correctly known by lunar observations or chrono- meters, or any of the islands be seen in passing through either the Eight Degree or Nine Degree Channel, there will be no cause to steer for soundings off Cape Comorin, but a direct course may be pursued for Point de Galle. SOUTH COAST OF AFRICA, FROM CAPE AGULHAS TO ALGOA BAY THE BAYS ON THE SOUTH COAST OF AFRICA are mostly open to S.E. and Easterly winds, seldom visited by large ships, except in exigent cases ; but small vessels from the Cape frequent several of these bays, to procure timber and gram. Bays of South Africa. From Cape Agulhas, Cape Infanta bears about East, distant about 15 or 16 leagues; the coast between them is low, and sandy in some places near the sea, extending from * About a century ago, several ships from England, bound to Madras, got into the Gulf of Manar by errors in their reckoning, in the strength of the S.W. monsoon ; but their journals shew, that by making a few tacks, they all got round Ceylon without difficulty. 240 SOUTH COAST OF AFRICA. Struys Bay. St. Sebastian Bay. Cape Infanta. Point Leven. Flesh Bay. Fish Bay. Mossel Bay. Cape St. Blaize reef. Anchorage. the former Cape, in a circular direction to N. Eastward, by which Struys Bay is formed to the eastward of that cape ; being open to easterly and southerly winds, and the coast around sterile, this bay ought never to be voluntarily entered by any ship, as is shewn in the section, where the Cape and Bank of Agulhas are described. ST. SEBASTIAN BAY is formed on the north side of Cape Infanta, the land turning sharp round from this cape to the N.W. The Bay is open to southerly and easterly winds, and not frequented : it has deep water near its shores, and seems clear of danger; about two leagues off shore, the depths are 36 and 38 fathoms. At the bottom of the bay, to the N.W. of Cape Infanta, there is a valley between the mountains, through w hich Infanta River descends to the sea, and there is said to be good anchor- age off the entrance of the river, where a ship might be sheltered from N.W. and westerly winds, but there is generally a considerable swell tumbling into the bay. Cape Infanta, the southern extreme of St. Sebastian Bay, is of middling height, with sand downs over it, having an arid appearance ; and it is in lat. 34° 31' S., Ion. 20° 53' E. by Capt. Owen's survey, and in lat. 34° 34' S., Ion. 20° 51' E., by Mr. Walker of H.M. brig Dispatch. To the northward of the Bay of St. Sebastian, there is a flat table hill, and further to the N. Eastward, a mountain with a hummock on it, resem- bling a cupola. Point Leven, named by Captain Owen, is a projecting part of the coast, in lat. 34° 27^' S., Ion. 21° 25' E. From St. Sebastian Bay, the coast extends about E. by N. h'ue bearing to Cape Vaches in lat. 34° 20' S., Ion. 21° 56' E., the distance between them being about 23 leagues : in this space, the coast is high, and regular. FLESH BAY, on the N. E. side of Cape Vaches, was sometimes entered by the early Dutch navigators, for water, bullocks, and other supplies : there is said to be a reef projecting a little way from Cape Vaches, and an island near the shore at the bottom of the bay. FISH BAY lies to the N.N. Eastward of the bay last mentioned, between it and Cape St. Blaize, which cape separates it from Mossel Bay. MOSSEL BAY, formerly the Bay of St. Blaize, or St. Bras, is bounded to the southward by Cape St. Blaize, in lat. 34° 7' S., Ion. 22° 12' E., 6 or 7 leagues north- eastward from Cape Vaches. Capt. Foster, (»f H.M.S. Chanticleer, made Mossel Bay anchorage, in lat. 34° 10' 17"' S. There is a reef off Cape St. Blaize, a little less than half a mile to the S. Eastward, on which the sea generally breaks; it is steep to, on the outside, and between it and the cape there is a narrow channel, with 5 fathoms water. The western reddish bluff, kept open of the craggy point (which is about 3 quarters of a mile to the westward of the cape), bearing W. by N. :^ N., will leasna uiver. Captain Owen), situated about 20 miles to the westward of the entrance of Pletten- berg Bay, is formed between two perpendicular rocky headlands, and it looks like the entrance of a large dock, when viewed from seaward. His Majesty's sloop Podargus, Captain Wallis, went into it in April, 1817. Capt. capi. Waiiis- Wallis observes, that any vessel drawing under 15 feet, attending to the tide, might ="°""'- run for this river with safety, it being 288 yards wide at the only dangerous part. It is high water at full and change of the moon at 3 hours 45 minutes : extraordinary X'des. tides rise 7 feet, ordinary tides 5 and 6 feet, and the ebb tide runs out at the rate of 3 or 3^ miles an hour on the springs. The middle of the channel is the deepest water, but it is proper to keep nearest to the western head, on account of the strag- gling rocks lining the opposite side, which are mostly visible, excepting the Emu Rock, nearly half channel over, on the east side of the entrance, and about a cable's length S.W, of Inner Obelisk Point, above which is the signal station. It is just outside the northernmost of the straggling rocky islets before mentioned. The brig Emu was lost on this rock before its position was known. A pilot will come off by making the signal, and a boat should be ready with a line to run out to the rocks, in order to steady the vessel, in case of falling calm under the high land, and being Anchorage. obliged to anchor in the narrow part of the entrance. There is good anchorage outside, the depths decreasing gradually towards the entrance of the river, which affords room inside for about thirty sail of ships and is as smooth as a dock ; and if necessary, a ship may be hove down to the steep bank, where vessels may also be built, forests of fine timber being contiguous to the river. Nevertheless, this place ought not to be attempted except in favourable weather, and never in a large ship. Mr. Walker, of H.M.S. Dispatch, made a stay of twenty days in this river in Mr. w.iker's October, 1817, and speaks of it as "without doubt the best harbour in the colony." """""'• He afterwards made a survey of it, which has been published by the Admiralty, and in which he gives the following Pilot Signals made at the Flag Staff. 2 I 242 PLETTENBKRG BAY. Flag — white and blue diagonally signifies Flag — red Flag — white and red horizontally Flag — yellow and blue vertically A pilot-boat is coming out. Ship recommended not to attempt to come in. Ship may come in now. If w^alting for the tide, a Red Pendant will be shewn over the Flag at a proper time for entering. Pilot-boat cannot go out, but a pilot is ready to receive the ship within the bar. Pleltenberg Bay. Whale Reef. Anchorage. Water and Supplies. Tides. Mountains near the coast* PLETTENBERG BAY, is formed by the projecting peninsula, called Seal Cape, or Cape Delgado, which is the southern extreme, and may be easily known by a gap in the land, about a mile to the westward of Seal Hill, which gives the Cape the appearance of an island when viewed from the southward at a few leagues' distance. Seal Cape is in lat. 34° 5' S., Ion. 23° 22' E. The only danger in approaching the bay is the Whale Reef, a circular shoal of rocks, bearing S.E. by E. from the Cape, near 1 mile distant; the sea in general breaks over it very high, and between it and the Cape there is a channel, in breadth about 3 quarters of a cable's length, with 7 fathoms, the least water. This channel should not be attempted but in case of necessity, as there is generally a great swell, and when it blows strong, the wind is unsettled and baffling near the Cape. By giving the Cape point a berth of a little more than a mile, ships may pass safely to the southward, and round the east side of the Whale, which is steep, having 18 fathoms water about a quarter of a cable's length from it ; and when the south end of the long sandy beach is open with the high rocky point on the north side of Seal Hill, they vvill be to the northward of the shoal, and if the wind permit, may haul close into the.bay. The common anchorage is in 17 or 18 fathoms water, about 3 quarters of a mile from the governor's store-houses, bearing from them S. by E. | E., which is convenient for taking in timber ; and the gap S.W., a ship will be sheltered. The bay is sheltered from all wind from E.S.E. to S.S.W. sets duration here, as at Mossel Bay. but m 8| by or bringing the Cape to bear S. by E. ^ E. fathoms water, good ground, and more winds, except those at S.E. and Eastward. The in a great swell, but S. Easterly gales are of short The landing place is on a sandy beach, near the governor's store-houses, at the south end of which there is a small river, that descends from a farm at the distance of 1^ miles, but the entrance is generally closed with a dry sandy bar. At both ends of the beach rocky points project, and from the south point E.S.E. , 1 cable's length, are some rocks, dry at low water, which break off the sea. Wood may be cut near the landing place ; watering is difficult, as the casks must be rolled near 300 yards over a heavy sand, and then rafted through the surf, which fre- quently runs high. Beef and poultry may be had at reasonable prices ; vegetables are scarce ; fish are plentiful near the cape and about the rocks off the landing place. Vessels from the cape load timber at this bay : for 12 miles to the N.W. of the landing place there is a forest, where various sorts of timber may be had ; some of large dimen- sions, proper for either house or ship building. The tide flows to 3h. 10m. on full and change of moon, and rises 5 or 6 feet per- pendicular ; a strong current at times sets out of the bay, between the cape and the Whale. Several brackish rivers fall into the north side of this bay. Around Pletten- berg Bay the land is hilly ; inland, to the northward, there is a mountain, of an irregular shape, called Buffalo Mountain, the highest part of which is to the eastward ; about a degree to the eastward of Buffalo Mountain there is, inland, another, of a sharp coni- cal form, called Peaked Mountain ; 9 leagues farther eastward there is a table hill, ST. FRANCIS BAY — RIY SHOAL. 243 called Flat Mountain ; and between these a round hill, called Round Mountain, or Grenadier's Cap : all these are at a considerable distance from the sea. From Plettenberg- Bay, the coast diverges a little southward from the true East point, to the distance of 30 leagues, being- generally of middling height near the sea, and destitute of any places of shelter, the depth (iO fathoms about 5 leagues offshore. ST. FRANCIS BAY, called also (Kromme) Crooked River Bay, has formerly been st. Francis visited by some ships in distress. The Pigot got Mater and other refresiiments here in ^"y- June, 1785 ; and the Countess of Sutherland remained in it (after losing her masts at sea) from July 18th to August 17th, 1801 ; while she continued at this place, had fre- quent land and sea breezes, with strong winds, at times, from S.E., blowing into the bay, rendering her situation very dangerous, for the cables were much injured, and some of the anchors were broken by the rocks, although she moved from 10 fathoms on the east side to 7 fathoms on the west side of the bay, to endeavour to get better anchorage. A little to the eastward of the entrance of the river, tlie Pigot found a Anchorage, spot of 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, where she moored at a little more than a mile from the shore, the eastern extremity of the land in sight, bearing E. 10° N. true bearing, and a round mount in one with the entrance of the river, which is the best situation to moor. Crooked River is the only landing place, and that not always practicable, on account crookcd River. of the high surf; the most water on the bar is 7 or 8 feet at high spring tides, which Tides. flow at 6\ hours on full and change of moon, and rise 5 or 6 feet. In the river the water is brackish, but, about a mile up, there is a spring on the larboard shore. A boat should be anchored outside the surf, and the casks hauled through it by ropes, when filled and brought down the river. The Countess of Sutherland had her long-boat stove, which was hauled on shore to repair, but she became buried in the sand, and could not be extricated. Bullocks and other refreshments may be procured in this bay, which abounds with Supplies. fish. It is much exposed to southerly and easterly winds, and the ground being gene- rally rocky, it ought not to be chosen as a place of refreshment, except in a case of necessity. Cape St. Francis, the S.W. point of the bay, is in lat. 34° 10' S., Ion. 24° 53' E., by Capt. Owen's survey : a reef of high breakers projects to a considerable distance from the cape, with deep water close to it ; and, although it is called tiio Cape of Mountains by the French, it is not high land; but on the same meridian, about 7 or 8 leagues inland, there is a remarkable rugged piece of high land, the flat and round mountains already mentioned, being 12 or 14 leagues to the westward of the bay. From Crooked River Bay, the coast lies nearly in the direction o( true East, to tiie Coast to uie distance of 8 or 9 leagues, to Zeepard Point, in lat. 34° 4' S., Ion. 25° 29' E., then bending '"^'^^^J- to the northward of East, 4 or 5 leagues farther, forms Cape Recif, or Arrecife, the southern extremity of Algoa Bay ; on this part of the coast, there are GO fathoms water within two leagues of the shore in some places. RIY SHOAL (very doubtful), is stated by Capt. Riy, of the ship Cragievir, to bear Riy Shoai. S. 48° E., by compass from Lady Donkin's Monument at Port Elizabeth, distant about 6 leagues, and 5 or 6 miles S. Eastward from Cape Recif; he says, it is well known to the fishermen and coasters about Algoa Bay, and that the sea breaks on it in bad weather. If there be a shoal near the position here described, the Company's ship William Pitt, and all on board probably, perished on it, in the night of the 18th Decem- 2 I 2 244 ALGOA BAY. Algoa Bay. Caution neces. sary on enter- ing the bay. Cape Recif. St. Croix Is- lands. Directions. Dispatch Rock. ber, 1813; but it is hardly credible that a dangerous shoal can exist in this place, without being often seen by the ships which pass near Cape Recif. ALGOA, or ZVVARTKOP, BAY is very extensive ; but, as far as our present in- formation leads us to judge, it is only in the western part of it, to the northward of Cape Recif, or in its N. Eastern part under the Isles St. Croix, that ships may anchor and find shelter. Algoa Bay being the only bay in which a distressed ship could find shelter from the violent N.W. gales, which prevail on the Agulhas Bank,* independent of other considerations, renders an accurate survey of the bay imperative; and until some such survey is made, much caution should be used in entering the bay, on account of the conflicting reports of its dangers. The care bestowed by Mr. Walker, of the Dispatch, and by Capt. Hunn, of the Redwing, in their examination of those rocks which now bear the names of their respective ships, leaves no room to doubt the accu- racy of their positions; but the discrepancies in the bearings and estimated distances of these dangers from the points and islands of the bay, as stated by other authorities, give reason to believe that some other danger exists 2 or 3 miles outside the Dispatch Rock, which by mistake has been described under its name. This supposition is strengthened by the circumstance of Capt. Hunn having distinctly seen breakers during a gale, 5 or miles, in an E.S.E. direction, from Redwing Rock, and by the report of the inhabitants to him, that a danger did exist there, although Capt. Hunn was unsuccessful in his subsequent search for it. Cape Recif (Rocky Cape) is in lat. 34° 2' S., Ion. 25° 42' E., by good observations ; it is low and sandy, with a small conical hill near the extremity, not perceived unless close in shore, having several rocks, above water, adjacent, and reefs projecting to the ^southward and S.W., to the distance of 1^ miles from the shore, on which the sea gene- rally breaks high, when there is much swell. This place is not easily known, although the Islands St. Croix lie in the north part of the bay, about 4 leagues distant from the cape; for they resemble small sandy hummocks on the main, not discernible in coming from the westward, unless close in with the shore ; the highest of them appears like a saddle. Coming from the westward, a ship ought to pass round Cape Recif, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles, until it is brought to bear W. by N. or West; she may then haul in, and keep within a mile (or less) of the shore, to the next rocky point 4 miles distant from Cape Recif, called Beacon, or Rocky Point, carrying from 9 to 12 fathoms, the course being N. ^ E. A sunken rock, called Dispatch Rock, with only 6 feet water on it, bears E. by S. or E. f S. from the rocky point about 3 miles, and 4 or 5 miles N. by E. from Cape Recif; as this rock is a small pinnacle, upon which the sea does not break in fine weather, large ships must give it a proper berth, keeping 3| or 4 miles from Beacon Point, in passing outside; although a ship may occasionally use the channel inside of the rock, by borrowing within 1 mile or less of the point. This rock, or rather rocky bank, was discovered by Mr. Wm. Walker, Master, commanding H.M. store-ship Dispatch; and the circumstance which led to its discovery affords so * The Amsterdam, 84, from Batavia to Holland, having reached the neighbourhood of the Cape, lost her masts in a gale on the Bank, and labouring exceedingly, she became leaky, and made for Algoa Bay. She let go her anchors somewhere off Beacon Point, but cut from her anchors and went on shore near St. Croix Islands, and in two days her huge hull sunk down in the quick-sands of the coast so as almost to dis- appear. Mr. Walker, who gives this account, was charged with the conveyance of part of her crew to the Cape, and received the information relative to her loss from her second lieutenant. ALGOA BAY. 245 useful a hint to seamen, that Mr. Walker's account of it is here given : — " On the 2nd Jir. waikcr^ of January, 1818," he says, •' I was working into the bay in a gale of wind, and ohserv- dUcoTeryof'"' ing the sea to run higher in a particular part than any where else, I concliuled that a Dispatcii shoal might be there, and took cross marks for it. On the 3rd the wind had died away, ^°''^' and the water being smooth, I went in my boat, and found, by means of the marks I had previously taken, tiie shoal off Beacon Point. It proved to be a i-ocky shoal, ex- tending in a N.W. and S.E. direction about 200 yards, being about 40 yards broad, with 9 or 10 fathoms on each side of it. The bearings from the shoalest part of the bank were as follows : '• Blockhouse in the fort near the landing place N.W. Grand Isle St. Croix N.E. ^ E. Western extreme of rocks off Beacon Point N.W. by W. f W. Extremity of Cape Recif S.S.W.:{;W. Least depth of water 8 feet." About 1 mile S. by W. from Dispatch Rock, there is a bank of 6 fathoms coral. Redwing Rock, discovered by Capt. Frederick Hunn, of H. M. sloop Redwing, in Redwing 1819, is farther in the bay, and appeared to be about 8 fathoms in lengtii and 2 or 3 ^°'^' fathoms in breadth, having 2^ fathoms on it, tiie least water, with 8 fathoms close to. When upon it, the extremity of the breakers off Cape Recif bore S. 8° E., Cape Recif S. 2° E., Bird Island off Beacon Point South, Fort Frederick W. \ S., St. Croi.K north- ernmost island N. E. by E. ^ E. off shore about 1^ miles. From abreast of Beacon Point or Dispatch Rock, to the anchorage off the landing Approach to place at Markham Cove, or Baken River, the course is N.N.W. | W. and N.W. by «he anchorages. N., distance 2J miles, the soundings regular and clear ; the coast and sand hills covered ■with bushes. The bottom is sandy all over the bay, except between the grand and south isles of St. Croix, to the eastward of them, where the bottom is foul. The chan- isiest. Croix. nels betwixt any of these isles are safe ; between the N.W. isle and the grand isle, the depths are 10 and 12 fathoms; between the latter and the south isle, 15 and 15^ fathoms; and between the N.W. isle and the main, 7 fathoms, in a channel about f of a mile broad. To the S.W. of the grand isle, ships may anchor, and find shelter from the S. E. winds, and it is an eligible situation for clearing Cape Recif, when the gale moderates sufficiently to permit a ship to carry sail. Directly over Markham Cove stands Fort Frederick, which from several positions is not easily seen; but Lady Donkin's Pyramid, half a mile to the S.E. of Fort Frederick, is conspicuous to ships approaching Port Elizabeth. From Markham Cove to Ferrara River is N. by E. nearly 4 miles, between which and Beacon Point may be considered the anchorage of Port Elizabeth : the water Port Eiizabeiii deepens gradually from the shore over a hard sandy bottom, in which the anchors hold ="'<^''°"s^- well, but many anchors have been lost by mercliant vessels lying near the shore, where hempen cables are liable to be cut; therefore, no ship should anchor nearer the shore than 6^ fathoms unless she have chain cables, until the bay is cleared of anchors. Capt. Moresby, of H. M. S. Menai, lay off Port Elizabeth from the 29th of April until the 25th of June, 1820, during which period tl)ere were only two days that they could not communicate with the shore. A swell rolled in with a S. E. wind, but never any high breaking sea : ships have from time to time (Capt. Moresby observes) rode during the whole year in this bay, and some of his Majesty's ships have rode out the heaviest S. E. gales that have been known.* * August 19th, 1828, the ship Philip Dundas drove on shore at Port Elizabeth during a heavy gale at S.E. 246 ALGOA BAY. Furrara River. Anchorage. Landing |>lace. Watering place. Supplies. Zwartkop River. Tides. Supplies. Directions by Captain Digbton. Ferraia River is closed at the mouth by a bank of sand, except at spring tides, and is not worth notice. The common anchorage off the landing place is in 6j or 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, the mouth of Baken River W. ^ S. about 3 quarters of a mile, and the outermost point of the land S. by E. ^ E. If at the Isles St. Croix, bring the grand isles to bear from S.S. E. to S. S.W. distant half a mile, or rather more, in 10 or 10^ fathoms sandy bottom. The usual landing place is on a small beach close to the northward of Baken River, the mouth of which is generally closed with a dry sandy bar ; about 100 yards within it there is a good spring of fresh water, and about 3 quarters of a mile to the south- ward there is a small run of water, called Baken Fountain. With a westerly wind, any number of casks may be easily rafted off from the shore. Bullocks and sheep are good and plentiful, fish may be caught in abundance with hook and line near the reefs, and oysters are got at lovv water on the springs; a ship may also refit here with spars, as there are large forests inland, but wood is scarce near the sea. Zwartkop River, in lat. 33° 51|' S., bears N. f E. distant 10 miles from the cape, W. i S. from the Grand Isle St. Croix 7^ miles, and N.E. by E. | E. from Ferrara River about 4 miles ; at a favourable opportunity, a boat may pass through the surf over the bar into this river, where it is navigable for small vessels 8 or 9 miles up; a little below this the water is fresh. This river may become of great consequence if Port Elizabeth continue to flourish, but the anchorage here is more exposed than at Baken River. The coast is generally sandy around the bay ; to the westward there is a range of hills, and to the N.W. of Zwartkop River, the Craggy Mountain may be seen inland, when the weather is favourable. It is high water at 3h. 30m. at full and change of the moon ; the tide rises 6 feet perpendicular ; variation 28° 48' W. in 1817. Bullocks and sheep may be had at moderate prices, but vegetables are scarce. Fish are caught near the isles, and about the reefs of Cape Recif. Oysters may be got on the rocks along shore, and plenty of fish may be obtained in Zwartkop River with the seine. The Isles St. Croix abound with seals ; and this, and Plettenberg Bay, abound with whales, in July, August, and part of September. Captain Dighton, of the Upton Castle, carried a detachment of 450 troops from the Cape to Algoa Bay in October, 1811, and as he found considerable difficulty in dis- cerning it, having run to the eastward as far as Bird Islands, before he found his mis- take, and was obliged to work back to the westward ; he thinks, therefore, that the following directions may prove useful in approaching Algoa Bay from the west- ward. Ships coming from the westward bound into Algoa Bay, after passing St. Francis Bay, and getting abreast of Christian Vogels River, ought to keep near the shore in about 25 fathoms water : the entrance of this river may be known, if near the land, by a large patch of sand on its western side, and there are no sand patches for 2 miles east of it, this space being green, or covered with brushwood close to the sea. When the entrance of this river bears N. E. you will perceive the mouth of a larger one, about half a mile to the westward, called Stadden River, from whence the course is S. E. by E. ^ E. to Cape Recif. If the weather be clear when off the latter cape. Craggy Mountain will be seen bearing N. by W. ^ W., and a high mountain with a and was wrecked; and on the following day, August 20tli, the ship Bride drove on shore at Cape Town, Table Bay, during a hard gale at N.W. ALGOA BAY. 247 flat summit N.W. by N. Cape Recif is a low sandy |)oint (of wliich tliere are several on this coast), not otherwise remarkaWo, having rocks projecting- a mile into the sea, which at a little distance resemble islets. The small round hummock near the extremity of the cape, is not easily perceived, unless in a particular point of view. Having rounded the cape, steer North for the next Rocky Point, and pass it at 3 miles' distance at least, as a rock lies E. Ijy S. from the point about this distance, with (i feet water on it ; from hence to the anchorage in Algoa Bay, the course is N.W. by N. in regular soundings from 18 to 7 fathoms. We anchored in 7 fathoms fine brown sand, with the flag-staff near the landing place, bearing S.W. i W. 1^ miles distant. Block- house W.S.W. i S., St. Cr©ix Island, E.N.E. ^ N., Craggy Mountain N. by W. f W., farthest extreme of land to the Eastward E. ^ S., extremity of Rocky Point S. by E. ^ E. There is a small fort on an eminence near the landing-place, called Fort Frederick, Fort Frederick, but the chief military station is several miles inland. Kuga River, in lat. 33°48'S. and 5 miles distant from Zwartkop River, is barred Kuga River. up at the mouth, and the water, which is very salt, flows into a small lake ; the coast between these rivers consists of sand hills, with a flat sandy beach. Sunday River, in lat. 33° 48' S. and 9 miles to the eastward of Kuga River, falls into the sea close to a remarkable rock, named Read's Monument,* between which and Cape Recif may be denominated Algoa Bay. The bed of this river is deep on the northern side, but the surf beats violently over the bar across its mouth ; and as the coast here is exposed to the constant rolling swell, there is little chance of the river ever becoming navigable for commercial purposes. Sometimes boats mai/ pass over the bar, but at the mouth of this river the coast becomes dreary and inhospitable, desti- tute of shelter for any class of shipping. // 1 St. Croix Grand Isle, in lat. 33° 47^' S., Ion. 25°{46^'^E., by Capt. Owen, distant 3| st. Croix isic. miles S.E. by S. from the mouth of Kuga River, and 6 miles W. by S. f S. from the mouth of Sunday River, is about 2 J miles in circumference. Another small rocky island, called Brenton Isle, is a little more than a mile S.W. from St, Croix, and about 3 quarters of a mile in circumference. South from the mouth of Kuga River 3 quarters of a mile, lies the Island Jahleel, about the same size as Brenton Isle. The Craggy mountain over Algoa Bay forms the eastern boundary of the chain of mountains on the coast of South Africa, there being no remarkable high land farther to the eastward, for the coast is then of moderate height, with sand downs and steep cliffs in several places. * In commemoration of a promising youth, a midshipman of H.M.S. Menai, who with three seamen perished, whilst surveying the coast. Sunday River. Read's Monu- meut. 248 Bird Ishinils. COAST OF AFRICA, FROM ALGOA BAY TO CAPE CORRIENTES. BIRD ISLANDS, in lat. 33° 52' S., Ion. 26° 5' to 26°(18:;E., by Captain Owen's survey, distant about 10 leagues E. | S. of Cape Recif, consist of three low isles, with several black rocks above and under water, extending about 4 or 5 miles nearly N.W. and S.E., and distant 6 or 7 miles from the main land. H.M. Ship Stag examined these isles in March, 1814, in search of the wreck of the William Pitt; entering from the westward between them and the land, she anchored within them in 17 fathoms, and passed through to the eastward between them and Cape Padron on the following day. In mid-channel, the least water was 12 and 13 fathoms inside the isles, and in some parts 17 and 18 fathoms rocky bottom ; but sounding in the boats, the depths decreased regularly to 6 or 7 fathoms close to the main, where the ground was found better for anchorage than near the islands. Bird Island is the easternmost of them, and is of round form, and about a quarter of a mile in extent ; the landing was found difficult on account of the rocks ; myriads of birds, particularly gannets and pen- guins, covered the isle. The next isle, about half a mile in length, called Seal Island, and the third called Stag Island, with black rocks that extend from it to the westward, were all covered with seals. There are two sunken rocks surrounded by others, partly visible at low water, but in fine weather the sea probably does not breaic high on them at high tide ; one of these lies 2^ miles West from Bird Island, and S.W. by S. from the west end of the reef. Doddingto.. DODDINGTON ROCK,* bearing S.W. from the centre of Bird Island, at 6 or 7 ^°'^- miles' distance, is in lat. 33° 57' S., Ion. 26° 1 1' E., by Capt. Owen's survey ; and it was on this rock that, in 1756, the Doddington East Indiaman struck in the night, w^hen steei'ing E.N.E. She soon went to pieces, and only about 23 of her crew, with the chief mate, reached Bird Island on pieces of the wreck, where they remained several months, and built a boat, in which a few survivors reached the Comoro Islands. Tiiere are 25 and 26 fathoms water near the east and west extremes of Bird Isles, and the depths are thought to be from 35 to 40 fathoms near the Doddington Rock on the outside, which is very dangerous for ships making the land hereabout in thick weather, or in the night, more particularly, if standing toward the shore when working to windward. Woody Cape. Woody Cape is to the northward of the Bird Islands, in lat. 33° 46' S., Ion. 26^ 14' E. * This description of Doddlngtoa Rock, Bird Islands, and adjacent coast, is chiefly by Mr. L. Fitzmaurice, R.N., who went in the Stag Frigate's boats to examine the isles and the channel. Although the Bird Isles were surrounded with high breakers, two smaU inlets or creeks were discovered at the west end of the eastern- most isle, with smooth water, where the boats landed. On the beach of the main opposite to the isles, the high surf rendered it impracticable to land, and steep cliffs with sand hills seemed to present an impenetrable barrier to the interior. CAPK PAURON, AND COAST TO THE ICASTWARD. 249 CAPE PADRON, in hit. 33° 40' S., Ion. 20° 2."/ E., by Captain Owen's survey, capc Padron. bears E. N. E. from Bird Islands, distant 3 or 4 leajjiies, beiui; a projecting- point of land, witii a bay on the western side between it and Bird Islands ; but aUlioui;li there is a channel between these islands and the main, through which the Stag- passed, as mentioned above, that might be used in case of necessity, yet it is uncertain if there be any secure anchorage inside of these islands in bad weather, on account of the bottom being rocky near them, as far as that ship explored. To the eastward of Cape Padron, the sand hills become higlier, and appear in square Coast casiwnrd patches, the coast extending true E. N.E. 13 or 14 leagues to Great Fish Point, in p^jX lat. 33° 30' S., Ion. 27° T E. ; and 3^ miles true Nortii of this projecting point lies the Great FUh mouth of the Great Fish River, or Rio de Infanta, in lat. 33° 27' S. ; the coast continues KeKkamim nearly in the same direction, about 8 leagues farther, to the entrance of the Keiskamma nivtr. River in the Kaffre countrv, the west entrance point of which is in lat. 33° 17' S., Ion. 27° 32' E. Bojesman, Karega, and Kasowka Rivers succeed each other to the eastward of Cape oiiur Kivirs. Padron, but are only weak streams, running over a bed of light sand in the dry season. Kowie River lies to the eastward of these, and receives its inland stream, like them, Kowie River, in a sandy basin, from which it forces its way through a narrow channel on its eastern side, not wider at low water than 20 yards ; the surf broke across a bar about a quarter of a mile from the entrance but not violently, and at low tide there must have been several feet of water. The water appeared deep close to the shore, but about 2|^ miles to the southward of the river's mouth there are two extensive beds of rocks. Kleine Monden is the next appearance of a river to the eastward ; it seemed to have, Kieine at times, three outlets into the sea, but they were all closed in the dry season, and pro- '^^''"''<"'- bably are open only at high spring tides, or when the mountain waters come down. From the Kowie to the Great Fish River the coast has a more verdant aspect than it has between the former and Sunday River, the sand hills being covered with luxu- riant bushes ; but there is not an inlet or curve of any sort that otters shelter for ships, and the surf rolls in high breakers along the coast. Great Fish River, near its mouth, passes through an open country, which is inter- Gnat vhu spersed with picturesque ravines, generally clothed with bushes : from the S. W. side '^"'"• of the entrance a sand bank projects within 20 yards of the N.E. side, which contracts the stream ; part of the ebb is thereby thrown back on the flat beach, runs to the westward, and finds an outlet close to the rocks on the western side. At this spot the water appeared deep, and the sea did not break successively for the space of ten yards, there being at times an interval of minutes, when a boat could easily have landed ; when, however, the sea did break in this space, it was with treble the violence of the constant rolling surf along the sand before the mouth of the river. The position of Great Fish River may be easily known in fine weather by some dis- tant undulating hills ; when bearing N. N.W. they are between the ravines through which the river flows. This river, at particular seasons, swells to a considerable height, and then, from the violence of the stream, no vessel can possibly enter; but when the causes have ceased tliat lilled its bed, the river becomes a mere brook. Becca River, next to the eastward of Great Fish River, is not more at low water Becca Rivir. than 12 or 14 fathoms across at the entrance, which contracts the stream, makes the tides rapid, and the water apparently deep ; the breakers are not more than would be expected at a depth of 8 or 10 feet, and resemble those seen at the mouths of rivers known to be 2 K 250 KEISKAMMA, AND OTHER RIVERS. Keiskamma River. Tides. the entrance may be known at sea, the interior, one beinii: an insulated navioabie. This river, therefore, may perhaps admit coasting vessels, but the coast in its vicinity seems sterile and forbidding-. KEISKAMMA RIVER, about 15 miles E. S. E. ^ E. from the Becca, has an exten- sive basin as a receptacle for the inland stream ; the extreme points between which the river flows, when its bed is full, are distant about a mile from each other, East and West ; but it tills only when the mountain torrents are in action. Capt. Moresby, from whose observations this description of the coast and rivers to the northward and eastward of Cape Recif is chiefly taken, states that it was nearly high water when he visited the Keiskamma, the mouth of which was then about 70 or 80 yards across, with the stream running South into the sea, strong and deep. Part of the stream was forced back along the shore, similar to that at Great Fish River, but the greater part ran close along the low rocky shore, which forms the N. E. point; and there, the breakers not being- constant, afforded a hope that there might be a channel at high tides for small vessels ; but the wildness of the coast, with a flat reaching \^ or 2 miles to seaward, precludes every reasonable expectation that this river can ever be opened to the most enterprising- trader. It probably can never be the resort of large ships, the tides being too feeble, and of too little elevation, the highest rise observed by marks on the shore being only 7 or 8 feet; and at low water the river did not exceed 40 yards in breadth. The ravine through which it winds extends in a N.W. and S. E. direction, and in clear weather, by a range of mountains in cone flattened at the top, with a high moun- tain a short distance to the eastward, having three distinct elevations : when these mountains bear N. N. W. they are in one with Keiskamma River. The N. E. point of land, close to which the river flows into the sea, is low and rocky, projecting from a remarkable green hillock, detached from the one where the bank begins to rise : the S.W. point is a sandy hillock. Along the coast the sandy soil is covered with bushes, through which, at different places, the sand is visible. After a description of the coast from Cape Recif to Keiskamma River, Captain Moresby concludes his remarks concerning those rivers as follows : — " If, therefore, trade is ever carried on, it is my opinion, that by Port Elizabeth or Zwartkop River alone it can be effected with security." The northern extremity of Agulhas Bank converges towards the coast, as the distance is increased to the eastward of Algoa Bay, the soundings being 80 or 85 fathoms about 7 leagues off Great Fish River entrance, and from thence towards Keiskamma River nearly the same ; but abreast of the latter no soundings are found 7 leagues off" shore. From this river's mouth. Cove Rocks are distant about 7 leagues, from whence the coast takes a more N. easterly direction to the first point of Natal, in about lat. 32° 22' S., which has three small hills over it; from hence it continues in a direction nearly E.N.E. to the third point of Natal, in lat. 30° 55' S., and Ion. 30^ 55' E. Between these points lies the second, or middle, point of Natal, in about lat. 31° 18' S. This coast, called Natal by the Portuguese, because they discovered it on Christmas- day, is destitute of good harbours, and little frequented ; and being inhabited by negroes, who are inhospitable to strangers, and the coast being generally sterile near the sea, St. John River, there is no inducement for any ship to touch there. The River St. John, in lat. 31° 34' S., Christian lon. 29° 29' E., falls into the sea between the first and middle points of Natal ; Chri.s- '^'"^r- tian River on the south side of the latter point, and Ant River, and Bloody River, Ant and betwceu it and the third point, the former being in lat. 30° 29' S., and the latter in Bloody Rivers, lat. 30° 15' S. Mostly all of these rivers on the S.E. coast of Africa are closed up at the Captain Mo- resby's remark on the Rivers. N. extreme of Agulhas Bank. Coast of Natal. PORT NATAL. 251 Capl. Owen. entrance by sandy bars, on which there is generally a high surf. St. John River may be known by the two blutt" points whicli (orn\ the entrance; between it and the first point of Natal a concavity is formed, and to the northward of tlie middle point, the coast assumes the same form, opposite to Ant and Bloody Rivers. Captain Owen has given names to the following parts of the coast, between the Keiskamma and the St. John. Cove Rocks, centre, in lat. 33'' 0' S., Ion. 27° 52^' E. Point Hood, lat. 33° 3' S., Positions by Ion. 27° 58' E. Cape Moro-an, lat. 32° 42' S., Ion. 28° 25' E. Hole in the Wall, lat. 33° 3' S., Ion. 29° 1' E. Ramehead, lat. 31° 48-i' S., Ion. 29° 15' E. Brazen Head, lat. 31° 44' S., Ion. 29° 19' E. PORT NATAL lies about 3 or 4 leagues to the northward of Third point; and Port Naiai. the cape, or southernmost point of the bay, is in lat. 29° 53' S., Ion. 31° 2' E., by Cap- tain Owen's survey. This place is only navigable for small vessels, the bar being very dangerous, having only 5 feet on it at low water, and the rise of the tide is but 5 feet more, e.xcept in September and October, when there are about 12 feet in spring tides. There is generally a heavy swell on the bar, and as it is very narrow, two or three seas will carry a vessel over; the water will then deepen to 2, 3, 4, and 5 fathoms, and she ought to keep along the southern shore at a ship's length distance. When about a mile within the river, a piece of barren ground is perceived at the declivity of a hill, opposite to which there is anchorage in 4 fathoms at a cable's length from the shore; but it is confined, and not yet frequented by European vessels. The tide flows here Tides. till 10 o'clock on full and change of moon. Coming from the northward, the south point of Port Natal is most conspicuous, and by its projection a bay is formed, where a vessel may anchor, with a S.W. wind, in 9 fathoms sandy bottom, the point bearing S.W. by S. 2 miles, the northern extreme N. 52° E., and the extreme of the bay S. 70° W. From the north point, some sunken rocks extend out a quarter of a mile ; and in going into the port, the passage is between these and the sandy point on the larboard side.* To the S. westward there is a table mountain, with another of the same form under it. The banks of the river are low, abounding with hippopotami, and are overflowed at high tides. This place was frequented by the early voyagers to India; at present there is no trade carried on here, but poultry may be procured for metal buttons, &c. A large party of Boors from the Cape of Good Hope have lately settled here, and, after many sanguinary conflicts with the ferocious chief Dingan, appear now to be securely established. They have received several reinforcements, accompanied by their cattle, and are now cultivating the ground with remarkable assiduity and success. The coast of Natal is generally high land, or of moderate height, interspersed with sand hills ; and in many places the shore is rocky, with deep soundings near it. The country is said to be fertile inland, abounding with cattle and elephants. Port Natal and Cape St. Lucia, soundings extend a considerable dis- the land, farthest abreast of Fisher River, named Morley Bank in the Ion. 31° 33' E., is distant from Port Fisher Point. Between tance from survev. Fislier Point and River, in lat. 29° 16' S Natal 12 or 13 leagues to the N.E., having a bay on the north side of the point; — * By the surveys of Port Natal by Capt. Edward Hawes, in 1S31, and Mr. W. T. Haddon, in 1835, the sunken rocks are on the southern side of the entrance, or larboard hand going in, and the Sandy Point on the northern side of the entrance, or starboard hand. The tide flows, according to these surveys, respectively, at 5h. 40m. and 4h. 30m. on full and change of the moon. 2 K 2 252 DELAGOA BAY. Coast of Fumos. Gold Downs River. Delagoa Bay. Invack Point. Elephant Island. Directions. about 21 leagues farther, in a direction nearly N.E., lies Cape St. Lucia, in lat. 28° 32' S., Ion. sV 28' E. ; and 7 miles farther north, lies the River St. Lucia, in lat. 28° 20' S., Ion. 32° 27' E., by the survey of Captain Owen. From hence to Cape Vidal, in lat. 28° 9^' S., Ion. 32° 38' E., the coast continues nearly in a N.E. direction, about 7 leagues, and then extends north a little easterly, about 42 leagues more, to the Island St. Mary, at the entrance of Delagoa Bay. This extent of coast from Cape St. Lucia has been called Fumos by the Portuguese, on account of the discoverers having perceived smoke in different places. It is generally composed of rather low land near the sea, and little frequented by Europeans, but was explored by Captain Owen in the course of the survey. About 16 or 17 leagues to the S.W. of Cape Fumos (called Cape Colato by Captain Owen) Gold Downs River is situated, in lat. 26° 55' S., Ion. 32° 48' E., according to Capt. VVebster, of the ship Mary Ann, from Bengal, who was becalmed some time off its entrance, and it appeared to be navigable for small vessels, with a large lagoon or harbour inland. Several parts of this coast have no soundings except near the shore. DELAGOA BAY, called also the Bay of Lorenzo Marques, from its discoverer, is of great extent, being 5 or 6 leagues in breadth East and West from St. Mary and Elephant Islands at the entrance, to the mouth of the principal river, which bears several names, being called Delagoa River, English River, Rio de Lorenzo Marques, and by the natives, Temby River. The length of the bay from North to South is about 8 leagues, but all the southern part is shallow and unsafe. St. Mary Island, and the peninsula adjoining, of which Cape Colato is the north point, form the east side of the bay; this island is high undulating land, near the middle of which, on the east side, there is a single hill with white spots, and the island is separated from Cape Colato, by a narrow rocky channel. On this peninsula of the main there is a high hill, called Mount Colato. The northern extremity of St. Mary Island bears the name of Point Inyack, or Unhaca, which Capt. Owen made in lat. 25° 58' S., and 14° 36' E. of Devil's Peak, Cape of Good Hope, by chronometers : or in Ion. 33° 2|' E. A little to the N.VV. of St. Mary Island there is another small one, called Elephant Island, from which an extensive reef projects about 5 miles to the northward and west- ward ; between this reef and other reefs, projecting 5 or 6 miles from the land on the north side of the bay, is the proper channel, about 5 miles broad. From Elephant Island, the south side of the bay is barred by a reef, which extends from the island to the main land on the west side of the bay. Between Elephant Island and the reefs which project to the North and N. Westward of it, there is a narrow channel with various depths. The bank of soundings extends but a small distance to seaward ; and after getting bottom the water shoals fast in running into the bay ; the bottom is rocky, with usually very irregular soundings, re- quiring care in a large ship. A ship bound into this bay should keep boats a-head sounding, as the sands are said to shift with the tides, which are irregular. Outside the entrance, the general depths are from 5 to 7 fathoms, and in some places only 4| and 4^ fathoms at low water about 3 leagues distance from it, and nearly on the meridian of the east end of Elephant Island ; a little more to the westward, there are from 6 to 8 fathoms. When a ship has steered in, about mid-channel between Elephant Island and the northern shore, the point, which is of a reddish colour, at the entrance of English River will be perceived ; she may then steer towards it ; the depths will be irregular, decreasing to 3 DELAGOA BAY. 253 and 3^ fatboms, when past the Island Shefean, which is on the north side of the chan- nel, about 2^ leagues outside of the river's entrance. A reef surrounds this islaixl, pro- jecting- farthest from theN.E. j)art, to the eastward and norlliward. Wlien tlie en- trance of the river is approaclied, Point iVIawhone, on the south side, must be avoided, as an extensive bank projects from it to the eastward and nortliward ; anrl from the same point, a bank extends along the western shore of the river; Point llewbiin, the north point of tlie entrance, must therefore be approached nearest in entering this river, where the depths are 3 and 4 fathoms at low water between the points, increasing to 7 and 8 fathoms about 2 miles inside. Ships may anchor at discretion, 1 or 2 miles Anchoragi^. within the entrance, or farther up, where the depths are 8, 9, and 10 fathoms, to the distance of 4 or 5 miles from the outer point of the river. There is a good watering place on the southern shore, opposite to the anchorage; and a little above Point Tal- loqueen, a long sandy point on the same side, there is a small rivulet, where the Por- tuguese have a resident ; opposite to the point on the other side of the river the ruins of the Portuguese fort are visible. Sailing into or out of Delagoa Bay, the shoals will generally be seen in clear weather from the mast-head ; but it is advisable to keep a boat a-head sounding, as tlie sets of tide are not regular, and there are often strong ripplings. The depths above mentioned are at low water spring tides ; the bar of the river, which is outside the entrance, is shoaler than any other part of the channel, having only 2,j and 3 fathoms on some places at low water; ships ought therefore to cross it with the flow- ing tide. English River extends a great way into the country, and is the only one navigable English and for ships of moderate size; for although several other rivers fall into this l)ay, the °'''''' i^'^^"- shallow water on their bars prevents vessels of burden from entering them. The largest of these is Manice River, called River King George by Captain Owen, situated on the north side of the bay, opposite the Island Shefean, and Mapoota River, at tiie southern part of the bay, where the water is very shoal. Capt. D. Inverarity, in 1802, observed the lat. 25° 58' S., at the anchorage of Eng- Engiui, River.; lish river, and made it by lunar observations in Ion. 32° 41' E. Captain Owen made the Factory Flag Staff in lat. 25° 58^' S., Ion. 32° 37' E. Variation 28° 7' W. High water at 5 hours 15 minutes, on full and change of the moon, and the rise of tide 12 Tides, feet at the Portuguese Factory. At Shefean Island, 4 hours 40 ihinutes was the time of high water. A considerable trade was formerly carried on at these rivers for elephants' teeth; but few English ships, except wiialers, now visit this bay. Although the Portuguese still retain a little intercourse with the natives, ships which trade here ought not to place much confidence in them, particularly if boats are sent a great distance up the rivers with goods to barter; for in such cases, tlie natives have been known to attack them, and massacre the crews. Elephants' teeth are procured in barter for India goods, and coarse stuffs of various kinds. The bay abounds with fish, and inland the country is fertile, producing grain ; Supplies, bullocks, sheep, poultry, and other supplies may be procured, and also fruits, among which pine apples and water melons are the chief. Sugar canes are also cultivated by the natives. This bay is much frecjuented by southern whalers, who kill here the black whale ; but it is a very unhealthy place, being subject to jungle fevers, which proved fatal to many of the officers and men, while employed on the arduous survey of this place in H.M. ships Leven and Barracoota, under the command of Captain Owen ; and some of the whalers have been disabled by the loss 264 CAPE CORRIENTES. — COAST TOWARDS MOZAMBIQUE. Cape Corri- entes. Inhampura River and shoals. of nearly all tbeir people at this pestiferous bay.* The country inland is moun- tainous, but low where it fronts the sea, adjacent to the rivers. On the coast to eastward of Delagoa Bay is Lagoa River, the entrance of which is in lat. 25° 20' S., Ion. 33° 13' E. by the survey. CAPE CORRIENTES,t small rock, in lat. 24° 7' S., Ion. 35° 30'E., by the chronometers from Cape of Good Hope, bears about trtie N. 57° E. from Delagoa Bay, distant about 68 leagues. The coast between them is slightly concave, and has several rivers, the largest of which is Inhampura, in lat. 25° 11' S., Ion. 33° 32' E., about 24 leagues from the Cape; and Gold River, a few leagues farther westward. Inhampura Shoals extend from lat. 25° 12' to 25° 10' S., and from Ion. 33° 39', the south extreme, to Ion. 33° 46' E., the north extremity, according to the survey. Cape Corrientes has a hill over it, which may be seen 10 or 12 leagues: the coast about it is clear of danger, with deep water, the edge of the bank of soundings not extending above 3 or 4 miles off shore. COAST OF AFRICA, FROM CAPE CORRIENTES TO MOZAMBIQUE. Inhamban Bav and River. FROM Cape Corrientes to Cape Wilberforce, the distance is 5 leagues N.E. ; the coast then runs in a northerly direction about 8 miles to Inhamban Bay. INHAMBAN BAY is formed by the curved line of reefs which extend in a northerly directioa from the south-eastern entrance point of Inhamban River. The Bay does not appear to have been yet minutely examined, but a few depths from 7 to 23 fathoms are given in it. The south-eastern point of this bay is sandy, with a sand hill over it, called Barrow Hill, in lat. 23° 45' S., Ion. 35° 3.3' E. From this point the coast turns sharp round to the westward, and, at 3 miles' distance, forms the low point at the entrance of Inhamban River, oft" wiiich point a reef of heavy breakers extends in a northerly direction, to the distance of about 7 miles. This reef forms the western side of the bay, the anchorage being about 3 miles to the northward of Barrow Hill, in 7 or 8 fathoms. Current. * The unhealthy season prevails from the beginning of September until the end of April, during which period, ships visiting this place wiU be liable to the pestilential scourge, particularly if the people are employed on shore, or sent up in any of the rivers, to trade in the boats with the natives ; and above all, if they sleep on the damp ground, from whence issue the poisonous miasmata during the night, in the proximity of the low mangrove swamps, near the banks of the rivers. t Current Cape ; the current generally setting round it to tbe S.W. and afterwards along the coast of Natal. CAPE ST. SEBASTIAN. — CIIULAWAN. 255 Between the low points which form the entrance of the river, the distance is about 5 miles, but it is almost barred up with low sandy islands and banks; the channel is near the north-western shore round the nortli point of the reef before mentioned, having variable depths from 2 to 12 fathoms; but it is narrow, and not frequented except by small vessels. Inhan)ban Town, in lat. 23° 51' S., Ion. 35° 25' E., by inhamhin Captain Owen, is on the eastern siiore, about 8 miles up the river, where some trade ^'"'"' is carried on by the Portuguese in slaves, &c., having here a resident, and a few troops for his protection ; ivory may be procured here. Between the sandy point and Cape Corrientes, the current sets strong to the southward great part of the year. Current. whicii will oblige a ship to anchor near the shore, if the wind fail in steering to the northward. The coast from Inhamban River extends nearly true North to Cape St. Sebastian ; coa»ti.. Ca,jc between them there are several rivers of suiall size, not navigable; the first, called St. *'«'*'"'"• French River, about 12 or 13 leagues to tiie northward of Inhamban, and another farther North, called Robber's River. This part of the coast has in general a sterile appearance, with sand points at the entrance of the rivers, and is high in some places, particularly to the northward of the river last mentioned. A headland, named Cape Cape Lady Lady Gray, by Captain Owen, is situated in lat. 22° 55' S., Ion. 35° 41' E. ^'^^■ CAPE ST. SEBASTIAN is in lat. 22° 4' S., Ion. 35° 32' E., by the survey; the cnpes,. land over it, being of considerable height, may be seen at 10 or 12 leagues' distance. coatt'oT"" In approaching it, the land appears highest to the South, and there are no soundings Sofaia. at a greater distance than 2 or 3 miles from the shore. From this Cape the land trends to the westward, forming a bay, barred up with shoals between the Cape and the Bazarouta Islands, and the whole of tiie coast of Sofaia from hence to Luabo River, the southernmost branch of the Cuama, is low and woody, with a sandy beacii in most places. Just beyond the Cape are the Bazarouta Islands, extending in a chain to the Bazarouta northward, and appearing like one island in coming from the southward. Cape '*"'^' Bazarouta, the northern extremity of these islands, is in lat. 21° 31' S., Ion. 35° 33' E., by the survey, having a reef projecting from it, which is covered at high water; a large cove is formed on the west side of the North island, and called Punga Bay, Punga Bay. where a ship might find shelter from easterly, southerly, and westerly winds, and procure wood and water : it has from 7 to 9 fathoms water in it, but is lined by shoal banks on each side. The entrance is from the North, a little nearer to the north point of the Great Bazarouta or northernmost island, than to the main land opposite. There is no passage between these islands for ships. In hauling in for the land to the northward of Bazarouta Islands, the soundings decrease regularly on the bank, from 15 fathoms soft to 8 fathoms sand, about 4 leagues from the shore : but ships running for the land to the southward of Sofaia must be careful of several dangerous shoals, covered at half-tide, stretching far out shoaUnear from the coast, and lying directly in the way of ships coming from the .southward, and bound into Sofaia with a westerly wind. One of these, called Inverarity Shoal, is in lat. 20° 42' S., Ion. 35° 10' E., by Captain Owen's survey, and nearly 3t^ leagues from the land, having been discovered by Captain D. Inverarity, in 1802, who made it in Ion. 35° 38' E., by lunar observations. CHULAVVAN, or Holy Island, appears to be joined to the main land, and its Chuiawan. north point is in lat. 20° 38' S., Ion. 34° 53' E., by the survey, it being 5 or miles in 256 SOFALA RIVER. len"'tl), low, and covered with trees. In 1802, the ship India anchored here in 7 fathoms water, with the island bearing from S. 17° W., to N. 84° W., distant 2 or 3 miles, and the mainland bearing from S. 12° W. to N. 6G° W. : several shoals pro- jecting from the points of the island, and others detached from it, seem to render any navigable passage impossible, except for boats.* sofau River. SOFALA RIVER is distant from Cape Bazarouta about 29 leagues to the N. by W., and cannot be entered by vessels of great burden with safety, there being only 12 or 14 feet water on the bar at low tide, and the entrance is intricate. High water Tides. at 4 hours, and the rise of tide on the springs, marked 22 feet on the chart of the survey, which perhaps is only at times, with a particular high flowingof the tide. From the anchorage under the Island Chulawan, the India steered along shore in from 12 to 5 fathoms water, until abreast of Sofala, and there anchored in 5 fathoms at low water, the flagstaff bearing N. 33° W., Matto Grosso N. 54° VV., extremes of Sofala Bay from N. 53° W. to N. 35° W., Ponta de Zemba N. 8° W., and the extremes of land from N. 6° W., to W. 16° S., off the flagstaff about 4 miles, Matto Grosso 5 miles, and off Ponta de Zemba 4^ miles. The point of land, on which the fort is situated is insulated at high water, and the fort is in lat. 20° 11' S., Ion. 34° 46' E., by Captain Owen's survey ;t the village, consisting only of a few huts, lies near the fort on the north side of the river. The Island Inhancata, at the mouth of the river, appears as part of the main, being separated from it on the south side by a small channel, fit only for boats. In moderate weather, at high water spring tides, a vessel Sofala Bar. drawing under 14 feet may pass over Sofala Bar. The channel at present is between Sofala Spit or Sand, and Matto Grosso Sand, on the south side of the former. Matto Grosso Sand, on which the sea breaks at a quarter ebb, bears from the point of this nameS.S.E. ^ E., 1 or 1^ miles, and joins to the point. Ships ought not to enter this place without a pilot, or it will be necessary to buoy the tails of the sands, the channel being narrow, and deficient of proper land marks to guide a stranger. A Portuguese resident, with a party of men, are stationed at Sofala ; there are also some merchants, who procure ivory, slaves, &c. and some gold, for the ship that comes annually from Mozambique. Bullocks and poultry may be purchased from natives on J moderate terms, but the reverse, if procured from the Europeans. Luabo River. About 30 Icagucs E.N.E. of Sofala, in lat. 18° 57' S., Ion. 36° 1' E., the entrance of Luabo River is situated, which is the southern mouth of the Zambesi or Great Cuama River. In this extent of coast, the land is low near the shore, with sandy plains ; and several small rivers fall into the sea on this part of the coast of Sofala, which is safe to approach, the soundings being regular toward the shore. From Luabo River, the coast extends about 7 leagues E. by S., then turns again to E.N.E., which space comprehends the several entrances of the Zambesi River. The coast here becomes more elevated, with some red patches, where there is an inlet called India Cove, from whence a sandy plain extends to the northward 4 or 5 leagues. Luabo Shoals extend from the mouth of the river of this name, a considerable distance, to the * Ships touching on different parts of the East coast of Africa, whicli are little frequented, ought to be careful in landing with their boats, for the natives have reason to be prejudiced against Europeans ; French and English vessels, after enticing the natives on board, have carried them away and sold them as slaves. At Sofala, and other places on the coast where Portuguese reside, a guard is placed on board of any vessel that may touch there, to prevent illicit trade ; but, by gaining the favour of the commandant, trade may be carried on at most of these places. They are all under the Mozambique Government, and all the coasting vessels ^ belong to that port. t Captain Inverarity made it in lat. 20° 15' S., Ion. 34° 45' E., by lunar observations in 1802. QUILLIMANE RIVEU, 257 eastward, forming bars to the months of the Zambesi ; the Elephant Slioals, in lat. 18° Eieph.m 56' S,, being about 3 or 4 miles oft' shore, are the outermost of these dangers. ®''°*'* QUILLIMANE RIVER, S.W. point, terminates the sandy plain, mentioned Quiiiim»ne above, and the entrance of this river, which is the northern branch of the Zambesi, is '""' t mile in width between Stahorse or Hippopotamus I'oiiit, on the west sidf, and Point Tangalane on the east. This river is said to be 180 leagues in length, and about (j leagues up, on the northern shore, the first Portuguese factory was constructed ; in consequence of the undulations of the river, the distance to Senna, the principal settle- ment, in lat. 17° 30' S., Ion. 35° 44' E.,* is more than GO leagues. The tlagstaff" on Point Tangalane is in lat. 18° 1^' S., Ion. 37° 1^' E., by the survey, but the entrance is not easily known, the land on each side being low, with coco-nut trees ; on the southern point, there is a small sand hill. There is generally a considerable swell on the bar, which has H fathoms on it at low water, and the tide rises 1(J feet on the springs; high water at 4 hours 15 minutes. Inside the river, the depths are 4 to 12 Tides. fathoms in the entrance, between the points, and from 1^ to 6 fathoms from thence to the town, having Various shoal banks in this space, and the Island Pequena about 4 miles inside the mouth of the river. About 3 or 4 leagues up, fresh water may l)e had Fresh waici. from a stream on the north shore. A shoal bank projects to seaward in a S.E. direction from each point of the entrance, contracting the channel on the bar, which is formed by the union of these banks about 3 miles outside the river's mouth. Being bound in, steer for Point Tangalane, on which Directions, the fjagstafl", or a few coco-nut trees may be perceived, bearing about N.N.W., and the river's mouth will be seen open to the left. The best bearing to cross over the bar, by Capt. Owen's survey, appears to be to keep the centre of the opening, bearing N.N. W., and steer direct for it with this bearing preserved, until within the points of the entrance. The breakers run very high in bad weather on the tails of the sands, and it is proper to keep in mid-channel between them. Observing the set of the tide, with the precaution of keeping a boat a-head, a stranger may enter the river, and keeping the N. Eastern shore aboard, proceed to Quillimane Town, which is about 4 leagues from Quiiiimane the bar at the entrance, on the northern bank of the river, in lat. 17° 52' S., Ion. 37° 1' E. by the survey of Capt. Owen. Variation 17° West, in 1820. When southerly winds prevail, it is prutlent to anchor in the road to the southward of Outer an- Seahorse Point, in 4 or 5 fathoms at low water, about :i miles off shore, which point '''""^e- may be known by sandy spots to the southward. In the opposite monsoon, the anchorage should be to the northward of the entrance of the river, as the winds fre- quently blow strong in both monsoons, and the current runs along shore with the wind. From tiiis river, the Portuguese export slaves, elephants' teeth, and some gold. About42 leagues north-eastward from Quillimane Hiver,the riverQuizungois situated, Quiiungo in lat. 17° 2' S., where trade is carried on by boats from JNlozainbique : between these, there are other rivers of smaller size. From the Bazarouta Islands, near Cape St. Sebastian, the Paracel, or Bank of Sofala, extends along the coast to the Premeira Sofai. B.nk. Islands. The soundings on this bank are mostly regular; but it has some dangers, the chief of which are David Shoals, the centre in lat. 17° 31' S., Ion. 38° 32' E., by the D«Tid sho.is. survey. Capt. David Inverarity, who discovered the.se shoals, says, about 12 leagues to the south-westward of Fogo, and 7 leagues from the main, in about lat. 17° 39' S., Ion. 38° 27' E., there is a rocky bank, which" the India, in 1802, crossed over in 6 fathoms * By Captain Owen's officers, who went up to Senna, and fell a sacrifice to the pestilential fever. 2 L 258 PREMEIRA AND ANGOXA ISLANDS. Premeira Islands. Foffo Island. De Sylva Bank. Epidendron Island. Macalonga Point. Mama Bank. Angoxa Islands. Caldeira. rocks, with several discoloured spots to the northward of her, which appeared much shoaler. This bank is a little outside the verge of soundings, and is probably very dangerous. When on it, the land was not seen from the mast-head. Many whales of the black kind are seen ; and the land may be generally discerned in 20 fathoms water. The winds on the coast of Sofala, prevail from South and S.E. ; but in December, January, and February, the northerly monsoon extends along this coast ; the current frequently sets to the southward, and at other times, it is very changeable. THE PREMEIRA ISLANDS (Ilhas Premeiras, or First Islands) lie adjacent to the coast, and are the southernmost of the long chain of islands extending along the district of Angoxa ; they are named Fogo, Casuarina, and Epidendron. They are small, and surrounded by reefs with passages between them. Fogo, or Fire Island, is nearly opposite Qnizungo River, in lat. 17° 14' S., Ion. 38° 55' £., named by the Portuguese from a light-house on it, which was formerly kept burning from the 1st of July, to the end of October. This is the southernmost of the Premeiras, and may be seen about 5 leagues from the deck, with breakers projecting from it about a mile or rather more. About H leagues W. S. W. of Fogo, there is a sand called De Sylva Bank, between which and that island a ship may pass in 14 and 15 fathoms, taking care to keep nearer to the island than to the bank. There is another channel between Fogo and the Crown Bank, which is 3^ miles E. N. E. of it, with the same depth of water as the former; and farther eastward, a third passage between the bank now mentioned and Casuarina Island, having in it 14 and 15 fathoms water. Casuarina Island is about 4^ leagues E. by N. from Fogo, and is very low : and a little farther in the same direction Epidendron Island is situated in lat. 17° 4' S., Ion. 39° 10' E., also low, called sometimes Flat Island, and Palm Trees Island. This chain of islands and banks is about 3 leagues distant from the main land and parallel to it, with a channel of 8 or 9 fathoms, navigable for ships ; but opposite to Epidendron Island, the channel is contracted to 4 miles width by Macalonga Point, projecting to the south-eastward in lat. 16° 5.9' S. In passing through this channel, inside the islands, a ship ought to keep much nearer to them than to the main, and will then have about 8, 9, and 10 fathoms water in passing through ; but to the eastward of Casuarina and Epidendron Islands, at 3 to 5 leagues' distance, there is no ground with 60 fathoms line. About 9 leagues E. by N. i N. of Epidendron Island, is a sandy island, in lat. 16° 47' S., Ion. 39° 34' E., called Moma Bank; and in the intervarthere are some reefs with breakers, between which and the bank there is a passage, and another with 8 and 10 fathoms water between the reefs and the island. These islands are all surrounded by extensive reefs. THE ANGOXA, or ANGOZHA ISLANDS, are three in number, with two reefs of breakers between the two easternmost of them. They lie parallel to the coast, about the same distance from it as the Premeira Islands : ships may pass between them, also between them and the coast, in 8 or 10 fathoms soft ground, by keeping nearer the islands than to the main ; but it would be imprudent to run tlirough these channels in the night. Caldeira, the westernmost of the Angoxa Islands, is in lat. 16° 39' S., Ion. 39° 46' E. The island to the eastward of Caldeira, has been named by Captain Owen, Hurd Island, between which and Mafamale Island, are the MOGINCALE SHOAL. 259 two dangers before mentioned, and wliicli are called Michael Reef and Walker Bank, and these two seem to be only sand banks, or reefs above water. Mafaraale Island* is the easternmost of the Angoxa Islands, and situated in lat. Mafamaic. 16° 20' S., Ion. 40° 4' E., by Captain Owen's survey. Captain Huddart, 2(M\ August, 1784, made it in lat. 16° 21' S., and 22^ miles East from Europa Island, in three days' run, by chronometer; a reef surrounds the island, projecting farthest to the eastward. All these islands are small, none of them more than 2 or 3 miles in extent, and usually surrounded by reefs. To the N.W. of Mafamaic, in lat. 16° 16' S., Ion. 39° 57' E., lies the entrance of Angoxa River, the bar of which is very shallow, but frequented by tlie boats of Mozambique. To the north-eastward of Mafamale, about 5 leagues, in lat. 16° 8'S.,lon. 40° 12' E., lies the Bank or Shoal of St. Antonio, nearly covered at higii water, between which si. Antonio and the land there is a channel; passing through, a ship should not approach the °^' coast nearer than 7 fiithoms, nor deepen more tiian 1 1 fathoms in the offing. About 6 or 8 leagues to the jN.E. of St. Antonio Shoal, at the distance of 5 or 6 a dangerous miles from the shore, there is a dangerous rock, on which the sea does not break at high water ; to avoid which, a ship ought to keep in 20 fathoms water, or more, in passing along the coast at this place : tliis danger is probably what is called Huddart Huddart Shoal, by Captain Owen, situated in lat. 15° 47' S., Ion. 40° 28' E., and he found ^'""' from 3^ to 5 fathoms water passing between it and the main. MOGINCALE SHOAL, situated about 2 leagues from the high part of the coast Mogincaic of the same name, renders the preceding caution more necessary, as the sea breaks on ^''°*'' it at low water spring tides, but there are 2 or 3 fathoms on it at high water. Captain Owen makes its northern part in lat. 15° 33|^' S., and the South part in lat. 15°36'S. The Scarborough, 22nd June, 1735, in 16 fathoms hard sand, saw breakers on this shoal bearing from N.E. i N. to N.E., distant about 2 leagues; she steered out S.E., and observed in lat. 15° 37' S. extremes of the land from N. by E. ^ E. to W. by N. ^ N., the breakers then bearing N.W. by W., no ground 30 fathoms, and distant from the shore 6^ or 7 leagues. This shoal appears also to have been seen in the ship Duke of York, bound from England to Mozambique in 1723, by the following extract from her journal. "August 6th, 1723, at 10 a.m., saw breakers on the Firebrass Shoal, extending across it ; and it is above 2 miles in length, in the form of a triangle, the outer point projecting about 2 leagues from the shore, and lies in lat. 15° 30' S. The best mark for this shoal is an opening bearing W. by S. from it, like the entrance of a river, there being no other opening in the land of a similar kind, between lat. 15° and 16° S. The land abreast of the shoal is rather higher than to the southward, interspersed with patches of trees, of black aspect, when contrasted with the sandy coast. When to the N.E. of this shoal, several palm trees on an island called Mafalane Movya, will appear as part of the main ; and to the northward of this island there is a sandy beach 4 or 5 leagues in length, ending at Bajone Point, which is the South point of Mokaniba River. Along this beach called Movinxes, there are tall trees, resembling pines when viewed from sea." Between Mogincale and Mokamba River, the coast should not be approached nearer than 16 * Called also Mafamede and Matamede, is, like most of these isles, merely a covering of sand over a coral base, not more than eight feet above the level of the sea, yet it is clothed with a grove of stately casuarina trees, some measuring about 10 feet in circumference, and most of them as straight as the common fir, without a branch for 30 or 40 feet above the ground, and many of them 150 feet high, rendering them visible from the mast-head at 5 or 6 leagues' distance. 2 l2 260 BAJONE SHOAL — PORT MOKAMBA — MOZAMBIQUE HARBOUR. Other Shoals, fiitlioms, on accouiit of aiiotlier shoal of small extent, said to have 3 fathoms water upon it, and distant about 3 leagues from the shore; probably the rocky shoal on which the Firebrass struck, having only 10 feet water upon it, situated in about lat, lo° 30' S. Captain Owen has given the name of Barracouta Reef to a danger in this lat. 15°30'S., Ion. 40° 33' E., which projects about 2 miles from Barracouta Point in the same latitude. Bajone Shoal BAJONE SHOAL, in lat. 15° 20' S., Ion. 40° 42' E., by the survey, lies about 6 or and Point. - ^jipg E.N.E. from Barracouta Point, and 4 miles off the main-land abreast, and is dangerous, though there is a passage inside of it for small vessels. Bajone Point, in lat. 15° lO'S., Ion. 40° 45' E., is a projecting head-land, forming the south point of MokambaBay. Mokauiba Bay. This bay has very deep water in the centre, and apparently also on its northern shore, but its southern shore is lined with reefs. Off its north point, called Point Sunkool, are the Sunkool reefs, or coral flats of Mozambique, which e.vtend eastward from the point to St. Jago Island, and from thence in a northerly direction to the island of Mozambique. Port Mo. PORT MOKAMBA, is at the head of Mokamba Bay, about 7 miles N.N. W. of kamba. Point Bajone. Its entrance, which is upwards of a mile wide, is in lat. 15"" 6' S. Point Mudge, the outer south entrance point, has a reef projecting from it 1^ miles to the eastward ; it is proper, therefore, to keep nearest to the northern side of the bay in approaching the entrance of the port, and to borrow towards the north point, called Mokamba Point, which is steep to. About 2 miles inside Point Mudge, on the southern shore, is a second point, called by Captain Owen, Point William. This point is foul, and has a detached rocky patch off it at the distance of more than half a mile. The port, which opens inside of Point William, is a spacious circular basin, with various depths, from 18 to 4 or 5 fathoms in some places, where ships may lie land locked ; but there are some shoals near the shore, and at the S.W. part of the harbour, fronting the river Tamonia. Captain Owen gives the following directions for entering the port: — Keep the Sunkool shore on board, or bring Mokamba Peak to bear W. by N. and steer for it until Point William is brought mid-channel, between Points Mudge and Mokamba, about S.W.^ W. Steer then on this course for Point William until mid- way between the three points, and then W. by rV. ^ N., until fairly within the harbour. The peak of Mokamba is on the north shore, nearly half a league within the point of that name, and is perhaps 2,000 feet high. From Mafamale to Mogincale Point, the distance is about 18 leagues; from that Point to Mokamba Bay about 9 leagues, and from thence to the entrance of Mozam- bique Harbour 3 leagues. St. Jago Bank. The bank that extends from the North point of Mokamba Bay to St. Jago, and Mo- zambique, is called St. Jago, and is steep to, composed of rocks, very dangerous, and the sea breaks on it in bad weather. Mozambique MOZAMBIQUE HARBOUR is one of the best on the east coast of Africa ; the arbour. j^nd arouud is mostly low near the sea with topes of coco-nut trees in several places. The two islands, St. Jago and St. George, lie to the southward of the entrance of the harbour. Cabeceira Shoal extends round the point of the same name, bounding the channel on the north side. Between 2 and 3 miles N.E. of the point, and near the northern extremity of this shoal, there is a small low island, called Arbores, or Tree MOZAMBIQUE HARBOUR. 261 Island, with two smaller islets above a mile to the southward. The island of Mozam- bique, on which the city stands, is about 1;^ miles long, very narrow, and placed like a break-water, nearly midway between the entrance points of the inlet ; within the island is the harbour, under the fort and town. St. Jago Bank, already mentioned, extends from that island to Mozambique Island, and from thence to the western shore. To sail into the harbour from the offing', steer for tiie is]an» Bay. ward of Point Maunhane, and is a little more tlian a mile wide, with soundings of 35 and 30 fathoms. The north point of the entrance is in lat. 12° 50' 8., Ion. 40° 33' E., being bold to approach, and the land on the south side, which is all high, may also be approached within a quarter of a mile. This bay seems not to have been known to Europeans until it was explored in 1824, by Captain Vidal, and the other officers under Captain Owen, and their survey marks it as an excellent harbour, opening within the entrance into a large oblong basin about 8 miles in lengtii. North and South, and 4 or 5 miles in breadth, with depths mostly from 18 to 7 fathoms, decreasing towards the edges of the reefs and banks that front the surrounding shores of the bay. The course into the entrance is W. by N. ^ N., and when witiiin the points or heads which form it, a ship may haul either to the northward or southward, and anchor completely land-locked in 10 or 12 fathoms, as may be preferred, in either the north or south arm of this spacious harbour. About 2^ miles to the N.E. of Point Maunhane lies a bank of soundings, where anchorage may be got in 9 to 12 fathoms. AREEMBA POINT, in lat. 12° 38' S., Ion. 40° 39' E., distant 6^ leagues from ^'^^^'^^^ Point Maunhane, may be considered the southern boundary of the Querimba Islands, as the first of these, called Quipao, is united vvith the south extreme of Areemba Point by a reef, which forms a cove or small harbour at the west side of Quipao, with from 5 or 6, to 4 and 3 fathoms water. On the north side of Areemba Point, betwixt it and the chain of reefs and islands to the northward, there is a passage of 5 to 3 fathoms into a harbour formed inside of the reef and Island Quizeeva, having the Fort of Areemba on the main land at the southern part of this inlet or harbour. THE ASWATADA or QUERIMBA ISLANDS form a chain, extending ^;,;;7^'|,'/' along the coast from Point Areemba to Cape Delgado. A ship in coasting along, uisncis. * ought to keep 5 or 6 leagues from the main, or rather more in some places, as several of the islands and reefs extend from it nearly that distance, and no soundings are in general to be had at 1^ or 2 miles' distance from the edges of the reefs. The following remarks are by Captain Owen : — " The outer coast line of the Aswatada Islands and reefs, and the course from Cape Delgado to Cape Maunhane, or Devil's Point, is true South 45 leagues; in this dis- tance there are eighteen or nineteen openings through the outer reefs into a still greater number of secure ports or convenient anchorages." " The general character of these islands and their reefs is, that the sea faces are very steep, having rarely any practical soundings even alongside them : but no sooner has a vessel passed within the imaginary line between their extremities to seaward^ than soundings may be expected, and generally in reasonable and convenient depths." " The dominion of the Portuguese seems to be acknowledged by the natives as far as lat. 11°S., but not to the northward of that, where the whole coast is subject to Seuheli chiefs or to Arab usurpation." " The Aswatada Isles are generally low, but some have a diversified surface of hill and dale, and many are mere coralets. They were most of them in high cultivation 2 M 266 ASWATADA ISLANDS. Querimba. Ibo Island. Anchorage. Tides, Matemo Island. Mahatoo. Coast from Ibo to Cape Del;;ado. .Shanga anchorage. about a hundred years ago, but having been so long open to Arab andMalgash depredation, they have returned to tlieir pristine wilderness state ; they are conse- quently in general well wooded and easily seen from seaward. But as no soundings are to be had to give notice of approach to them, it would seldom be safeto try to make them by night. Indeed this observation applies generally along the coast from Maleenda to Mozambique with a few exceptions. The outer coral reefs of Aswatada do almost all of them dry at low water, or at half-tide, liiie those of Cape Delgado." The larger islands of this group are situated between lat. 12° 10' S., and 12° 27' S., and to these, rather than those farther North towards Cape Delgado, the name of Querimba Islands belongs. That called Querimba, which gives name to the whole, is in lat. 12° 26° S., Ion. 40° 39' E., being about 3^ miles in length, with a fort near the north point of the island, which is in lat. 12° 23f'S. Ibo, on which the capital of the same name is situated, in lat. 12° 20' S., is nearly separated into two islands by a deep inlet from the N.W., and the south part of the Island of Ibo is called Quirambo, this part being joined to the north point of Querimba by islets and rocks. To the North of Ibo there is a channel with 6 and 7 fathoms water, leading to anchorage inside the reefs ; this channel is bounded on the south side by a reef projecting from Ibo, and on the north side by Corea de St. Gonzalo reef, which has another smaller channel between it and the reef that projects from the south end of Matemo. The reefs may be perceived by discoloured water, and outside of them a ship may anchor in a case of necessity, and also ofl' the edge of the reef joining Ibo and Querimba, in calms. The anchorage at Ibo is partly exposed to easterly winds, where large ships would not find sufficient depths of water, and seems only proper for small ships drawing 14 or 15 feet, which might find good shelter by anchoring inside of Ibo reefs. It is high water about 4 hours on full and change of the moon. This, and the other islands, to the southward, are mostly connected by reefs. Matemo Island, in lat. 12° 13' S., its centre bearing ti-ue North from Ibo, has a channel within it, with from 3| to 7 fathoms water, and passages both to the North and South, between its surrounding reef and the adjacent reefs, with 7 and 10 fathoms water in them. Mahatoo Island, in lat. 11° 59' S., the next to the northward of Matemo, has also a jjassage for small vessels inside, between it and the isles or reefs fronting Pangane Point on the main. From Ibo Island, the numerous islands and reefs fronting the coast extend nearly true North to Cape Delgado, and the coast in some places has various undulations, forming large bays, with some safe harbours inside the islands and reefs. The whole of the coast is generally low, with many small islands and reefs fronting it ; a ship should, therefore, preserve an offing of 5 or 6 leagues in sailing along, to avoid the dangers which lie scattered in this space; more particularly as the land can only be seen at a small distance. The country vessels pass inside the islands and reefs, in sailing from one place to another. About 10 leagues to the northward of Ibo, in lat. 11° 50' S., there is anchorage between the main land and the isles and reefs of Mattos and Shanga, which may be entered eitlier from the northward, or southward, there being two channels, with depths of 14 to 9 fathoms in the southern one, between the main land reef projecting from Point Peguin, and those mentioned above.* * The Margaret, of Calcutta, Captain Georgeson, from the Cape of Good Hope, bound to Zanzibar, April 2nd, 1819, struck and bilged on a reef in lat. 11° 27' S., Ion. 40° 42' E. At 4 p.m.. Mast Island was seen bearing N. I E., hauled up N,E. by N. : at 6 abreast of Mast Island about 3 or 4 miles' distance, saw a reef I CAPE DELGADO — MONGHOVV RIVER. 267 CAPE DELGADO, in lat. 10° 41' S., Ion. 40° 40' E., by Captain Owen's survey, Cape Ddg.do. being rather a low point, is not easily distinguished from the islands to the southward, the nearest of which, Tikomadjy Island, is distant from the cape about 4 miles. As the cape land on the south side, stretches westerly about two leagues, and then rounds to the southward, a safe bay or harbour is formed on the west side of the Island of Bay. Tikomadjy. The channel into this bay is formed between the island and the land of the cape, with depths from '30 fathoms at tiie entrance, to 7 or fathoms inside : the course in isW. by IN. ^ N. and W. ^ N.,and mid-channel is the best track, as a reef projects from the cape, and another from the north part of the island ; when round the latter, haul to the S.W . and anchor near the west point of the reef that projects from the island ; or in northerly winds, a ship may anchor in the N. Western part of the bay in 5 or 6 fathoms, about 5 miles W. S. W. of the cape, opposite to Minenene River. Tonchy Fort is 3 or 4 miles to the westward of Cape Delgado, in the northern part of the bay. A reef projects from the cape into the sea, and from hence the land takes a northerly Reer. direction to Mizimbaty Island in lat. 10° 20' S., and becomes higher in several places than to the southward of the cape, with indentations in the coast, which is lined by reefs at a considerable distance from it in a N.W. direction nearly to Lindy River. About half-way between Cape Delgado and Keelwa, near Lindy River, there is a remarkable mountain, with three elevated hummocks on it of a hemispherical form. From the North point of Mizimbaty Island, other smaller islands extend in a north-westerly direc- tion, about 6 miles parallel to the coast, chained together by reefs. MONGHOW RIVER, entrance in lat. 10° 7' S., Ion. 40° 2' E., is about a quarter of Monghow a mile wide between the sands and reefs at the entrance, rather difficult of access, with '''""' from 14 to 7 fathoms in the fair channel; this place is not easily distinguished. If a vessel intend to touch here, the entrance is seen from the northward, and when within Directions. 2 miles of it, the Mushroom Rocks, three in number, will be perceived on the reef outside the river's mouth on the western side of the channel, appearing like the wreck of a ship; bring them to bear S.S.VV., and steer for them, till they are distant about half a mile ; and pass between a third and a half mile to the eastward of them, when the river will be seen open to the S.S. Westward, and then continue to steer up in mid- channel. A ship may anchor in it, and warp up if the wind be light or baffling; then Anchorage, moor above the village of Monghow, which is a little within the eastern point of the river; or she may go higher up, where there is more room, and be land-locked. The depths in the river are mostly from 8 to 12 fathoms up to the anchorage; and it is high water at 4f hours on full and change of the moon. Wood is easily procured, but Tides, water with difficulty. The Arabs trade to this place for ivory, and slaves are sent from hence to Quiloa. projecting from the N.E. end of it, about 3 miles in a N.E. direction, hauled up N. E. ^^ N. At 7| saw breakers on the starboard bow, immediately struck on a reef, which at day-light was found to extend in shore as far as the eye could discern, and outside the ship in an easterly direction about 4 miles, then stretching to the northward. From the wreck. Mast Island (which we had passed the preceding evening) bore about S.W. by W. 10 or 12 miles, another island N.W. J N. about the same distance, and the main land to the westward about 7 or 8 leagues. Captain Georgeson says, that from lat. 12j° S., the land should not be approached nearer than just to see it in clear weather, until in the latitude of Cape Delgado ; from hence to lat. 7° 47' S. is safe. The crew of the Margaret coasted along in the boats to Zanzibar, where they arrived 14th April, or nine days after leaving the wreck, having experienced much embarrassment by falling in with reefs, sand banks, and islands, on several of which they got a little fresh water. The Arab Governor of Zanzibar treated them with great hospitalitj', furnished them with a house, provision of the best quality procurable, and after- wards gave them a passage to Bombay in one of his own Dows, free of expense. 2 M 2 268 LINDY RIVER — KEELWA HARBOURS, Lindy River. LIN DY RIVER, in lat. 9° 59' S., Ion. 39° 45' E. (the Fort), by the survey, about 5 or G lea"'ues from Monghow, and 22 leagues to the N.W. of Cape Delagdo, is large, easy of access, with several villages on its banks, the principal of which is Lindy, with its fort on the western side, w here the river contracts to about half a mile ; from 2 miles' width, to 3 miles outside in the entrance. The southern shore ought not to be approached close; mid-channel is the best track, when a little inside of Point Querimba, w iiich is the outer point on the north side of the river. The depths are 40 fathoms, no ground between the outer heads at the entrance, decreasing quickly to 8, 5, and 4 fathoms, at 2 or 2^ miles from the narrow part opposite to the village of Lindy. By Captain Owen's survey, this appears to be an excellent harbour ; wood, water, and other necessary supplies may be easily procured ; and the watering place is a little out- side of Lindy, on the opposite shore, in a creek near Esmant village. Capt. Owen says, " there is good anchorage in the outer bay wherever soundings may be had, and about a mile North of Point Esmant, is a very good stopping place in 4 or 5 fathoms." Tides. It is high water at 4| hours on full and change of the moon, and the rise of tide is 12 feet. Variation 16° W. in 1824. From Lindy River to Keelwa, the coast extends about N. bv VV. 18 leagues, having some indentations, among which are Masoonga River in lat. 9° 45' S., Ion. 39° 47' E., and Kisoohara River in lat. 9° 26' S., Ion. 39° 39' E. Keelwa Harbours. Northern Channel. Ukjera Reef. KEELWA or KEERW A, sometimes called QUILOA, HARBOURS, are formed by the island of this name, which appears like two islands when seen from the offing ; it is 4 miles in extent from North to South, and on the N.W. end the town and fort of Keelwa are situated, in lat. 8" 57' S., Ion. 39° 34' E. There are two passages into this port, which form two harbours, one to the northward and one to the southward of the island, having from 20 to 8 or 10 fathoms in the latter, and from 30 to 12 fathoms in the former, either of which may be chosen as circumstances require. Ships entering the northern harbour, the channel to which is about half a mile wide between the reefs at the entrance, usually anchor at the N.W. part of the island, abreast of the fort and town ; those which come by the South channel, anchor to the southward of the island, in 9 or 10 fathoms in the southern harbour.* A bank of shoal water extends from the N.W. point of the island to the peninsula of the main land, having only 1 and H fathoms on it at low water, but small vessels may pass over it at high water, from the north to the south harbour, as the tide rises 8 or 9 feet. Two spacious inlets or arms of the sea extend inland ; one from the North harbour in a N.W. direction, and the other from the south harbour, in a South direction, both having in them several islets and shoals, with depths of water sufficient for ships of any size to a considerable dis- tance upward, where they both separate into small i)ranches or rivers. Two peninsulas are formed between the inlets and the sea, Keelwa Island almost filling up the space between the extremities of these peninsulas. The island is nearly surrounded by a reef, and the points which form the entrances leading to the harbours have reefs projecting from them. The reef called Ukyera Reef, projecting from the north entrance point of the northern harbour, extends about 5 miles to seaward in an easterly direction, and is quite steep on its east and south sides. It has many spots on it always dry, on some of which are trees, and the entire surface of the reef, which is very extensive, is either dry or awash at low water ordinary tides. This point, called by Capt. Owen Cape Keelwa, is readily known, being low and sandy, with several trees near it on the inner * Or when inside of Soonga Manara Point, they may haul to the southward and keep near the eastern side of the inlet or gulf, and pass about mid-channel between Isle Morice to the westward and the eastern shore, then anchor in 5 to 8 or 10 fathoms to the southward of that island, land-locked if necessary ; but a great reef projects from the island in a northerly direction. KEELWA HARBOURS. 269 part of the reef. The south entrance point of the southern harbour, is also low, but distinguished by a pagoda on it, which at a considerable distance appears like a vessel under sail ; it is called Soonga Manara, or Pagoda Point, and is situated in lat. 9° 2' S., Ion. 39° 37' E., by Captain Owen's survey. To the northward of Ports Keelwa there are several hills inland, called by Capt. Owen the Vidal or Ganghera Hills, but all the coast about this harbour is low, covered with mangroves, which, retaining the mud, make banks and islands, rendering it unhealthy. Water and Supplies. provisions may be procured at this place, but few ships touch here at present. The natives have in general been considered unfriendly to strangers. High water at 4 hours Tides. 45 minutes. Variation 14° & W. in 1824. Captain Owen calls the northern harbour of Keelwa Port Beaver, and the southern one Port Nisus, from the circumstance of Captain Beaver, of H.M.S. Nisus, being the first Englishman who visited this place ; his visit occurred in 1811. Respecting the name Quiloa, Capt. Owen remarks, that " by its literal enunciation to some Arab pilots, they took the Baracouta to Tikhvh'y instead of Keelwa, from which it must be seen how important it is not only to give true names but the true pronunciation of them." He gives the following directions for the ports. " Coming from the northward the sea board of Ukyera Reef is as easily distinguishable Directions by by day as the shores of the land, and it may be coasted as close as convenient. No c«pt. o-ren. soundings will be had near it until approaching its south point, which has soundings more than half a mile on its S. E., and nearly half a league from the shore of Cape Keelwa; this is a convenient spot for anchorage sometimes in the northern monsoon, when there is not day enough to enter the ports." " Easterly winds prevail here in the form of strong sea-breezes most of the year, and generally occasion a considerable swell from sea-ward, so that if the wind fall light and be from sea, and a ship be embayed here, it is sometimes a difficult and anxious work to get out ; this consideration gives more importance to the only ground, just named, where a vessel can possibly anchor." "To enter Port Beaver, bring the fort just on with the north extreme of Point Philip po,t Bea»er. (the N. E. point of Keelwa Island) about West, until the cliffs of Cape Keelwa be shut in behind its S. E. extreme point, or be in one with it ; then steer W.N.W. for the second break in the shore, North of Point Emerika (the South point of the northern peninsula) : this with open eyes will lead clear through the narrows, until the castle islet, which is off the fort, be shut in behind Point Emerika, when a ship may steer in mid-channel towards the fort." "There is a small shoal on the north part of Philip Reef, and another on the south part of Cape Keelwa Reef, which form the narrows, where the channel is not more than a quarter of a mile wide. Strangers had better place a boat on the edge of each of these shoals for marks, and when within the narrows, the cliff being open to the West of the N.W. Point of Philip, a ship may steer as she will, the North shore of Keelwa Island being clean almost to the town, as is also Point Emerika; but the shores on the east side of this point are foul, except near the North Cliff. A vessel when inside may choose her anchorage, but the most convenient depths are North of the fort." " To enter Port Nisus, the channel between the reefs off Fishery Point (the S. E. point pon Nisus. of Keelwa Island) and Pagoda Point is three-quarters of a mile wide. Enter at half tide or low water, and the way will be clearly seen. The most convenient anchorage is about midway from the south shore of Keelwa Island, between it and Pactolus Bank, but vessels sometimes haul close within Pagoda Point, and anchor between it and Morice Island." 270 MONFEA ISLAND — LATHAM ISLE —ZANZIBAR. " Tf a ship (k'sire to enter in the southern monsoon or from the southward she should make the hind about Kohanga or Kishoohara to the southward, where the shore is very clean and land high and bold ; and coast the reefs northward and enter by eye, or when Fishery Point bears W, by N. she may steer for it until Morice Island bears S.S.W. and then proceed as before." Monfca. MONFEA ISLAND extends from lat. 8° 2' S., to Point Moresby, the North ex- treme in lat. 7° 38' S., Ion. 39° 57' E. ; it is narrow, and the first large island to the northward of Keelwa, but between them a chain of islands and reefs extend along the coast at the distance of 5 to 6^ leagues, with a channel inside for small vessels. Monfea is also fronted by a reef along its eastern side, and by islands and shoals on the inside, between it and the main. There is anchorage on its South and West sides, be- twixt the reef which extends from it, and the adjacent group of islands and shoals. Care is requisite in approaching the southern part of the island, on account of exten- sive and steep coral reefs. The island is said to be fertile, and to afford water and provisions. Between Monfea and Zanzibar, there are several islands near the main, and a pas- Point Ponna. sagc aloDg the coast, inside of most of them, fit for small vessels. Point Ponna in lat. 7° 1' S., Ion. 39° 37' E., is a projecting part of the land, nearly opposite to Latham Isle, from which point the coast takes a N. Westerly direction for 21 leagues, forming the Bight of Zanzibar. Latham Isle. Zanzibar. Directions. LATHAM ISLE, in lat. 6° 54' S., Ion. 39° 59' E., by Captain Owen's survey, and in lat. 6° 59' S., Ion. 39° 50' E., by Captain Moresby's observations in 1822, in tl.M.S. Menai, bears nearly true North, 44 miles distant from the north end of Monfea, and is a low sandy island, less than a quarter of a mile in extent, with a rocky projection from the eastern part, and usually high breakers on the rocks around. A bank of soundings from 5 to 15 fathoms extends about 2|^ miles to the northward of the isle, and to the eastward about H miles, with from 6 to 10 fathoms on that part, but half a mile from the isle on the west side, there are 28 and 30 fathoms. This isle was discovered by the East India Company's Ship, Latham, December 8th, 1758, and is marked in her journal to be about 14 feet above water, in lat. 7° S. Captain Owen states it to be about 10 feet elevated above high water mark, formed of coral, and its surface is ren- dered flat by the dung of the numerous sea fowl which resort to it. Except on the S.W. side, it is difficult of access. Variation 13° 5' W. near it in 1824. ZANZIBAR, called ZUNGBAUR by the Arabs, the largest island on this part of the coast, has a considerable trade carried on by the Arabs from Muscat,* who also trade to most of the harbours on the east coast of Africa, for ivory. The east side of the island is lined by a reef, and on the western side are several small islands and shoals between it and the main land ; reefs also project from the north and south ex- tremities of the principal island. A ship intending to touch at this place, should steer for the north part of the island, and when off the N.W. end, two islands will be perceived near each other within the northern point, the southernmost of which, called Tumbat or Tombette, is largest, being of considerable extent North and South ; the other, called Moina— Moina, is small, and lies close to the North point of Tumbat : if it be late in the evening, she may Zanzibar is tributary to the Imaum of Muscat, who keeps an Arab Governor there. I ZANZIBAR. . 271 anchor near the west side of Tumbat, in muddy ground, from 17 to 20 fathoms. In running along the west side of Tumbat, the soundings are reguhir, at the distance of 1 or 2 miles from the shore, and tlie course about S.8.W. and S. by \V., but about 2,;|; or 3 miles to the westward of its north end, there are overfalls of I) or 10 fathoms. From the N.W. end of Zanzibar, called Sandy Point, or Point Ooswamemby, a bank is said to extend in a S.W. direction about H miles from the shore, having on it 7 fathoms, fine sand ; when past this bank, there are regular soundings along the western shore to the three islands situated to the northward of the town. Outside of these, a ship may anchor, or go into the inner harbour at once ; the dangers are generally visible, particu- larly at low water ; and although the pilots use no marks to carry ships into the harbour, the following directions may be of utility. When you come near the easternmost of these three islands, called Chapany, or French Island, you will see the bank extending from it, which is partly dry at low water, and by projecting nearly half-way across, towards the Zanzibar shore, makes the channel very narrow. There is also a bank projecting a small distance from the main island, and forming an elbow along that shore. When you come near this bank, the south point of Zanzibar Town will be open with the eastern island; on this south point there are three remarkable coco-nut trees,* and a white house near them. Keep the second or middle tree on with the white house, and you will be in the best water, 8 and 9 fathoms. When the three islands before mentioned are in one, you are abreast the bank, and will have 6 fathoms, one or two casts ; when the islands appear open of each other, you are past the shoal part of it, and may then steer for the south point of Zanzibar, leaving an elbow of a bank near the shore on your larboard hand, and anchor within a mile of the town in 7 fathoms mud. The south point of Zanzibar will then bear S. by W. | W, with a small island a little open; the flag-staff on the Fort, or Governor's House, S. | E. ; the fresh water river E. by N. 4 miles, having a single coco-nut tree on the summit of the hill, a little open to the left of it; Chapany Island, from which projects the bank, N.E. ^ N., and the second island having the N.W. end of Zanzibar just open of it, N. | E. The reef environing the islands is mostly dry at low water; and at high water only navigable by boats. In running along the S.W. part of Zanzibar, the western side of the channel is bounded with reefs extending about North and South, which are nearly dry at low water. There is a village and some fishermen's huts near the N.W. part of the island ; and the town is composed of few houses, the dwelling-places being in general huts constructed of mat, which are very neat. The island in sailing along has a beautiful appearance, and is every where woody. The channel to the westward of Changoo, the north-westernmost of the three islands, seems safe, by passing that island on the west side at a little more than half a mile distance, and as a reef extends nearly 1 J miles S. by W. of it, give the reef a berth, by keeping rather more than mid-channel toward Bawy Island to the S. Westward, and when abreast of this island, or on the transit line between its north end and Zanzibar Fort, or the middle of the town, steer on this transit line for the anchorage abreast the Fort and Town. Water may be procured in Fresh Water River, but it must be filled on the falling wa.cr. * These marks, given by Captain Bissell, were not visible when Captain Moresby was here in 1822, wlio observes, in his directions for this place, that the eye is the best pilot. He also found the island marked as Tree Island, in the plans of Zanzibar, does not now exist, the sea having undermined the coral rock which formed it, and finally reduced it to sand, where at low water it forms a bank, called Harp Shell Bank by Captain Moresby, from the numerous and beautiful sheOs found on the reefs surrounding it. the SouCh Channel 272 ZANZIBAR. tide, being brackish at high water.* The casics are rolled a considerable distance from the beach, filled from the stream, and taken off on the flood. Water may also be got from a well about a quarter of a mile round the south point of the island, to which the boats may make three or four trips daily. From religious motives, the natives will not permit European ships to receive a supply of water from the wells about the town. Supplies. This place abounds with refreshments, bullocks, goats, poultry, rice, dholl, coco-nut oil, &c. with a great variety of delicious fruits. The Governor makes a monopoly of the sale of these articles, charging exorbitantly for them; the inhabitants, when per- mitted, sell their articles more reasonably. They go always armed, and appear timid, except when a considerable number are together. The foregoing remarks relative to Zanzibar are mostly from the observations of Captain Bissell, taken in H.M. ships Leopard and Orestes, in February, 1799; which ships touched here for refreshments in their passage to the Red Sea, after having en- deavoured in vain to beat up along the coast against the N.E. monsoon. They arrived the 19th of February, and sailed the 5th of March ; and after passing along the coast from hence to Ras Jar d'Afoon, arrived in Aden Road the 1 1th of April. Captain Moresby employed four boats constantly for eight days, in forming a survey of the channels and harbour of Zanzibar, for which he gives the following instructions. Directions for On upproachiug Zanzibar from the southward, after passing Latham Isle to the westward, a point will be seen bearing S.VV. by W., and farther North, land rising into two mounts, then the southern part of Zanzibar, and the islands that skirt the West; the reefs are discernible all the way, and with a good look out, it is impossible to run into danger. When the islands are passed, and open clear of the southern part of Zanzibar, He Passe, or Choomby, will be seen, having two small rocks off its S.E. end called the Twins; at the same time, Ukomby Isles, which are two small islands, called also Walnut and Nut Islands, will be seen to the eastward, situated on an ex- tensive bank : Bawy, or Turtle Island, with the three islands that form the harbour of Zanzibar, in a clear day, being likewise in sight from the mast-head : having cleared He Passe, there are four channels by which a ship may proceed to the anchorage off the town. At low water all of them are safe, and may be adopted at discretion, as the banks and reefs show themselves, and are then steep to ; but at half-tide, the Menai Channel is the best. To go through this channel, double He Passe at half a mile distance : when the North exti'eme bears East, and the town just on with the south point, steer N.N.E. in from 15 to 18 fathoms, at which time French Island will be seen from the mast-head, nearly on with the point of the town. On this course the soundings will decrease gradually to 9 or 8 fathoms, until Nut or Walnut Islands are in one. With Bluff Point bearing S.E., a patch of black rocks off Rocky Point E. by N. |N.,the Town Point N.N.E. i E. nearly on with French Island, the Middle Ground, if at half tide, will be seen a wash, or at high tide the shoal water over it right * Captain Owen observes, that the crews of all vessels, after having watered here, have been subject to dysenteries and fever; which applies more particularly to the river water, as that procured by digging, or from wells, does not appear to possess the same deleterious property. Europeans not seasoned to the climate, ought not to sleep on shore, if it can possibly be avoided. Captain Bissell made the anchorage in lat. 6° 6' S., Ion. 39° 33' E. North end of the island in lat. 5° 40' S., Ion. 39° 46' E. ; and the South end in lat. 6° 28' S., Ion. 39° 46' E. (a). Captain Smee, in the Ternate, Bombay cruizer, in 1811, made the town in Ion. 39° 0' E. by sun and moon. Captain Moresby, of H.M.S. Menai, made French Island, near the anchorage, in Ion. 39° Ij-' E. by lunar observations, and in 38° 57 J' E. by chronometers, in 9 days' run measured from Johanna. (a) Which is too much to the eastward. ZANZIBAR, 273 a-liead about half a mile distant, and Menai Bank will appear on the starboard-how, about a quarter of a mile, liaul up N.E. by E. keeping- liocky Point on the starboard- bow, on which course there are from 7 to {) fatiioms until Rocky I'oint bears E. by S., three quarters or half a mile distant, then a ship will be past all danger, and may steer for Town Point, Middle Island being nearly on with it. The Imogene frigate went out by the Soutii passage, February 7th, 1831, which afforded the following observations, made by Captain Hart, in command of that ship. Dircaionsby " Being half-tide, when all the shoals were visible, weighed at A.m. from our anchorage ^"P' """ to the nortinvard of the town, off the Imaum's j)alace, having a native pilot, with no farther guide than his eye. Passed between French Island and the main of Zanzibar, but too close to the sand spit projecting from the former, upon which iiad one cast of less than three fathoms, and the next six fathoms. Afterward, hauled up a little to avoid the shoal that fronts the shore of the main island, then steered south-westward for the shipping off the town, passing close to them, and soon approached a dry sand bank which was visible before we weighed. This sand l)ank bounds tiie western side of a very narrow passage named Imogene Channel, to distinguish it from that named Menai Channel by Captain Moresby." " When close to the sand-bank, bearing West, saw from the deck tlie shoal that bounds the east side of the channel, the width of which did not appear above twice or thrice the length of the ship. Rocky Point exhibits a white cliff more conspicuous than the rocks, and ought to be called White Cliff Point; it bore S.E. by S. when in 10 fathoms water in the ciiannel, steering S. S. W. When the western sand-bank bears N.W. it is on with Bawy Island, by which this island may be known ; and the eastern shoal is on with Isle Passe, bearing S.E. by S., and White Cliff Point then bearing E. by S., in 6 and 7 fathoms water, steering S.S.W. i W. The eastern shoal is on with Bluff Point, bearing S.E., the White Cliff will then bear East and be in a line with part of the same shoal, and Zanibar Town Point will bear N. by E. .^ E., the depth of water 10 fathoms." " When the north part of Isle Passe is on with the south part of Nut Island, if enter- ing from the southward. White Cliff Point will appear bearing N.E. The north point of Isle Passe and White Cliff Point are in one bearing, N.E. f N., ^^ alnut Island then bearing East, will be 1^ points of the compass open with a high con- spicuous clump of trees on Zanibar, and Kwaly Island will bear S. E. ^ 8. The high clump of trees bears E.N.E. ^ N. in a line with the 3 fathoms shoal. Isle Passe then bearing North, Walnut Island N.E. |- N., and a small round island E. by S., which shoal appeared to have less than one fathom water on it." " Approaching from southward, the south part of Zanzibar, bearing N. N.W. 5 leagues, may be known by a high top of trees, appearing separate and higher than the others; and Kwaly Island will be known when it bears North 10 or 12 miles, by a white sandy point, and a little round island then appearing to the eastward of it, the south point of Zanzibar bearing E. by N. When Kwaly Island bears N.E. ^ N. it may be known by the little round island appearing off its northern point, with another small flat island to the northward of the round island, about 5 times its length, the south point of Zanzibar bearing East." " The pilots trust to the eye, the shoals being visible at half-tide, and at all other times from the mast-head. The Imogene entered by the north passage in the N.E. monsoon, and could not obtain a pilot. The country vessels, large and small, enter or depart by the southern passage, according to the season.'" " To pass between French Island and Zanzibar from the anchorage before the Fort, To sail out to fj », 'he northward. 274 ZANZIBAR. ill proceeding out by the northern passage, the best time to weigh is at half-ebb, when all dangers are visible; a course N.E. by E. a little easterly, will skirt the Flats about a iniisket-shot, extending from the mouth of the river; or when the two flag- stafis are in one, and a large white house on with the curtain between the two north- ernmost towns of the Fort, a ship is in the fair channel in 6 and 7 fathoms water : keep tiiese on until the three islands, French, Middle, and Changoo, are in one, then the Longsand Spit extending from French Island will be abreast, round which gradually haul, to avoid a flat stretching from the river Araousi ; and when this is passed, a ship may steer North, having 8 fatlioms, gradually increasing over a bottom of mud." Captain Owen's survey made the Town Fort in lat. 0° 9^' S., Ion. 39° 14^' E. North Point in lat. 5° 42f' S., Ion. 39° 20^' E. Ras Kizimkaz or South point in lat. 6° 27|' S., Ion. 39° 33' E. Chuaka or East point in lat. 6° 3f' S., Ion. 39° 31' E. Tides. High water at 4 hours 45 minutes on full and change of moon. Rise of tide 9 or 10 feet. Variation 11° 7' W. in 1823. The following are Captain Owen's directions for the anchorage: — Directions by " In the N.E. iiionsoon a ship may round the north point of the island at any con- apt, wen. venient distance, and leaving Moina Moina full a mile or more to the southward, until the western coast of Tumbat is all open ; she may then coast that island at a mile dis- tance, more or less, and will carry from 16 to 20 fathoms, except in crossing Tumbat West Bank, should she be far enough for that. Rounding Ooswamemby in like manner, she will carry soundings all down the western coast from 24 fathoms, de- creasing gradually to the southward. She may now enter either by English Pass within all the islets, or by the Great North Pass between Changoo and Bawy Islands. If by the former, the reefs will always be clearly seen at half- tide, and she may haul in for Cliff Point, which is full a mile E.N.E. of Chapany Islet, until she be in from 7 to 9 fathoms. She may then steer by the eye, keeping about three times as far from Chapany Islet as from the main shore. When the three northern islands are in one, she will be in the narrowest part of the channel, and must then haul out to the west- ward, so as to get mid-channel between Chapany and the Zanzibar shore, when the former bears N.N.W. She may then choose her berth at pleasure at any convenient distance off Point Shangany." " In the southern monsoon, it is better to make the land about Point Ponna, from which steer North or N. by W. to make Kizimkaz ; thence steer for Kwaly Island, and round it, and Choomby, at a convenient distance ; steer for the rocky capes Maja or Chakwany, until Choomby bears S. ^ W., and Chakwany from E. by N. to E.N.E. ; then steer N. ^ E. with Chapany just shut in with Shangany, and when Chakwany bears E.S.E. steer as convenient for any required berth ; observing, in coming in or going out, that if the Little Larkbree* sand is seen, it will be a sure guide, the channel being between it and the Maja Bank. The Little Larkbree may be approached by the lead." After leaving Zanzibar for Pemba, having run eight miles N. E. f E. from the former. Captain Moresby, in the Menai, suddenly struck soundings in 14 fathoms, and had afterward from 6| to 13 fathoms uneven ground, steering E. by N. 6 miles, the north point of Zanzibar bearing S. 26° W., and the east point S. 3° E. off shore about 10 miles, then suddenly lost soundings in steering out E.S.E. y ^ ^ This little sand-bank is generally dry, and is situated 4 miles true North of Choomby Island and 1| miles true West of Chakwany Point. Larkbree, according to Captain Owen, was the name of the Arab Governor. PEMBA — MOMBAS. 275 PEMBA, called KEDDREE, or UL HUTHERA (Green Island), by the natives, Pmu. extends 12 or 13 leagues, nearly N. by E. and S. by W. The Point Kegomatchv, N.W. point being in lat. 4° -Oi' S., Ion. 39° 44' E. The south end in lat. 5° 2U' S., Ion. 39° 42' E., by Captain Owen's survey. This island is low, well wooded and fertile ; rice is cultivated and carried to Zanzibar: the eastern shore is nearly straight in a N. N. E. and S.S.W. direction, and is lined by a reef, requiring caution when near it in the night ; the western shore is irregular and deeply indented in its outline, having a chain of islands and reefs fronting it, by which several bays and iiarbours are formed. The chief of these, Chakehak Bay,* is inside Mesal Island, in lat. 5° 15' chaiehakBay. S., from whence a channel leads to Port Cockburn, situated on the north side of a long narrow peninsula that sejjarates them. Port Campbell is in lat. 5° 4' S., having ivts Cock. also a channel leading from the former harbours, which channel extends inside the cam m'i chain of islands and reefs nearly to the N.W. end of Pemba, and there are several gaps in the chain, also affording a passage to the harbours inside the islands and reefs. There is a channel betwixt Pemba and the main, but it is contracted by reefs on each side, for, opposite to this island, a chain of reefs and islets project 2 or 2^ leagues from the main land in some places, very steep to. In August, 1822, Captain Moresby, after departing from Zanzibar, passed in the Menai on the west side of Pemba, between it and the main, and made the Western Reefs in Ion. 39° 34' E. When within 3 or 4 miles of the island, he steered N. N. E. ^ E. in an open channel, on a line with the reefs, until the north end of Pemba bore S. 20° E., and got no soundings with the deep sea lead ; but, at this time the man in the chains got ground 7 fathoms, when the ship was immediately hove to, and no soundings obtained with 80 fathoms of line : probably they had passed rapidly over a small bank. The current in the channel appeared to run with great force, violently agitating the sea ; and the western side of Pemba was found to be fortified by coral reefs, interspersed with islands, and whenever a sand bank intervenes there is gene- rally good anchorage. On the western side of the N.W. point, a ship may anchor opposite to a small sandy bay, but a reef of 2 miles' extent to the N. E. must be avoided. High water at Mesal Island, at 4^ hours on full and change of moon; Tides, rise 12 feet, MOMBAS ISLAND lies about 16 leagues to the northward of Pemba Island, Mombas. and is about 3 miles long from North to South, and about H miles broad, nearly filling the large basin formed by the main land, and having a channel on each side leading to the interior ports. The main entrance is about 1^ miles wide between the outer reefs, which, together with the south end of the island, form the outer bay or road, which has in general from 6 to 9 fathoms depth of water, with some deep holes of from 18 to 35 fathoms, and a shoal patch with less than 4 fathoms. This road is convenient in the northern monsoon, the water being generally smooth, but in the southern monsoon a considerable swell sets in. The channel on the eastern side of Mombas Island, and which leads past the city, terminates at the north end of the island in the harbour called Port Owen Tudor by Captain Owen, at the head of which are the entrances of several rivers. The western channel does not continue round the N.W. end of the island, but bending suddenly due West, opens into the larger harbour of Port Reitz. * Captain Owen calls this, Masai Ul-Chak Chak, a fine port, affording good and secure anchorage ; the island is also very fertile, abounding in excellent ship timber and refreshments. 2 N 2 276 OWVOMBO AND KILLEEFY RIV£RS PORT MALEENDA. The City, Castle, and Fort, are on the east side of the island, a little within the north-eastern channel, where ships may procure refreshments: fresh water may be n-ot from wells in difterent parts, more particularly about a mile above the city on the eastern shore, and the anchorage is safe. Between the two reefs which form the entrance, the depths are from 6 to 10 fathoms, continuing nearly the same to the city, and deepening afterwards along the east side of the island ; on the south side of the island, between it and the south reef, the depths are rather greater, and this part may be called the Southern Harbour. Mombas Island and the contiguous land are low and woody ; a pillar on the east end of the island, or the flag-staff of the fort, may be perceived in passing, but the city is obscured by trees: there are three remarkable hummocks to the northward of this place, called the hummocks of Mombas, by which it may be easily known. By Captain Owen's survey, the entrance of the harbour is in lat. 4° 3' S., the fort in lat. 4° 4' S., Ion. 39° 43' E. Variation 1 1° W. in 1824. High Tides. water at 4 hours on full and change ; rise of tide 1 1 feet. The port, although safe inside, is rather difficult of access, on account of extensive reefs, and the natives are not always friendly to Europeans. Since the Arabs and natives expelled the Portuguese from the ports on this part of the coast, few European vessels touch at any of them. Zanzibar is preferable to other ports on this coast, if a sliip be in want of water or other refreshments ; there is less chance of treachery, it being under the government of Muscat, and more civilized. owyombo,or OWYOMBO, or CHENEE RIVER, in lat. 3° 37' S., bears true N. by E. from chcnee River. Mombas, distaut about 9 leagues, having soundings of ten fathoms close to the entrance ; and a reef steep to lines the shore between these places. Kiiieefy River. KILLEEFY, orQUILIFE RIVER, is situated in lat. 3° 39' S., Ion. 39° 53' E., and the shore becomes dangerous a little to the N. E. of this river. Port Maieenda. PORT MALEENDA was surveycd in 1823 by the officers under Capt. Owen, and is formed by Leopard Reef on the outside, and the other reefs contiguous to the main, having depths of 4 to 8 and 9 fathoms ; there is no town marked on the plan Leopard Reef, engravcd froui the survey. Leopard Reef, in lat. 3° 16' S., lies about 7 leagues N. E. from the entrance of Killeefy River, where H.M.S. Leopard was 6 hours aground, and nearly lost, loth Feb. 1799. Steering S.W. by W. and W.S.VV. the land was seen at 3 A.M., sounded in 13 fathoms, and afterwards struck, in hauling out to sout-east- ward. After floating at 9 a.m., she anchored in 17 fathoms fine white sand, a little to the south-eastward of the reef, and observed at noon in lat. 3° 18' S., the southern extreme of the land then bore W. by S., the northern extreme supposed to be the South Point of Formo.sa Bay, N. by E. 6 leagues, and an island having a pagoda,* or sea mark on it, N.W. by N. distant 5 miles. This reef extended about N. N. E. and S. S.W., having high breakers on the shoal parts, and terminated at the main. All the shore in sight to the westward seemed to be bounded by other reefs, parallel to that mentioned, and were nearly dry. The Pagoda is called by Captain Owen, Vasco da Gama's Pillar, and according to * This is called Gomany Pagoda by Captain Smee, who made a running survey of the coast in 1811, and states it to be on a point of the main ; he places the Leopard Reef in lat. 3° 15' S., and says that a ridge of high land is in one with the reef bearing W. by N. ^ N. Killeefy River he made in lat. 3° 26' S., and de- scribes it to be large, with a bold shore near it, without soundings. Giber reefs near it. FORMOSA BAY — LAMOO — PATTA. 277 him is built on the north end of a flat peninsular rock, which is about a quarter of a mile long- from N. N. E. to S. S.W., and loO yards wide. Inside the rocky peninsula is a small cove, and between the point wiiich forms the western side of this cove and the main is another cove — both coves are open to the North and N. E. The Pillar is in lat. 3° 13' S., Ion. 40° 1 1' E. FORMOSA BAY is about .0 leagues in breadth, and 3 or 4 leagues deep, having Formosa B.y. various soundings from 25 to 8 and (> fath9ms ; the southern point of this bay, called Ras Gomany, is in lat. 3° 0' S., Ion. 40° 19' E., by the survey ; and the North point is in lat. 2° 39' S., Ion. 40° 40' E., having detached reefs fronting it, to the distance of 4 miles, with depths of 14 and 16 fathoms near them ; and there are also reefs in theS.W. part of the bay 3 and 4 miles off shore, in the stream of 8 fatiioms. From the North point of Formosa Bay, the coast extends in a N. E. direction, about The coast 11 leagues, to Patta ; all the land being rather low, and to the southward of Patta Ba^to'plnr there is a chain of five islands covered with trees. LAMOO TOWN and CASTLE, in lat. 2° 16' S., Ion. 40° 56' E., is situated about Lamoo. 3 leagues to the S.W. of Patta on the east side of Lamoo Island, which is separated from Manda Island by an arm of the sea, forming a secure harbour for small vessels, although the entrance is intricate. Lamoo Bay, formed by Manda and Lamoo Islands to the northward and westward, and the main land to the south-westward, has a depth of water from 4 to 10 fathoms, the usual anchorage off the harbour entrance being sheltered to the East and N. E. by Ras Kattow, the south point of Manda Island and its reefs, and to the North, West, and S.W. by the shores of Lamoo Island and the main. In the outer part of the bay, about 2 miles S. S.W. of Kattow Point, is a 2| fathom patch, called Kattow Knoll, and between 6 and 7 miles S.W. of the coast is the islet of Kinyeeka. To enter Lamoo Bay, Captain Owen observes: " In the northern monsoon, round Ras Kattow Capt. owen-s by the lead in a convenient depth, over 5 fothoms, and do not come under that or 4^, ''"''"'°"'- until the point bear E. byS. about a mile off shore, where anchor. The channel into the river is narrow, a ship desirous of entering should sound it, and place boats or marks on the shoal points." "With the southern monsoon the islet of Kinyeeka may be passed, on either side, when a ship may steer for Sheila Castle, which is near the S. E. point of Lamoo Island, or the eastern sand-hill off Lamoo Island, or rather leaving them one point on the star- board bow, until Ras Kattow bear E. by S. (as before), a full mile off the shore of Manda, where she may anchor, where the whole bay is safe from Kinyeeka Islet or rock to the bar flat, half a mile off the south shore of Manda. The spit W. by N. of Ras Kattow, near three quarters of a mile from its shore, requires caution ; it has 2^ fathoms, and Sheila Castle bears N. 36° E. from it." PATTA, in lat. 2° 9' S., Ion. 41° 2' E., is built on a mud flat, which according to Patta. Captain Owen is overflowed at high water, having a boat channel through it to the town. The Bay is protected by extensive reefs, which stretch along shore at the dis- tance of 2 and 2^ leagues from the land, having narrow passages between some of them. The middle passage has from 7 to 3 fathoms water in it, and was frequented by English ships formerly, when they traded to this place for cowries, ivory, &c. The Portuguese used the channel that lies 4 miles more to the westward ; to the eastward 27S PATTA. there is a winding channel with 3 fathoms water on the bar, said to be dangerous* from April to the latter end of August. The following description and directions are taken from the remarks of Captain Owen : — Paita Bay. Patta Bav IS bouudcd on the N. £. by the reefs and sands of Seewy, on the S.W. by Manda Island, and to sea-ward by the Pesarly, Eyaya, and other reefs. The shores of the bay are all very low, but the S. E. shore of Manda Island has sand-hills of moderate elevation, its eastern point being a bluff headland, faced by a sand flat w hich extends towards the w^estern rocks of Eyaya. The island of Kizingaty, which lies 2 miles E. S. E. of the town of Patta, is 2 miles in length from East to West, its southern face presenting a remarkable feature, being defended by a barrier of rocks a little separated from the shore. Patta East cliffs, which are 2 miles farther to the eastward, and Patta Middle cliffs, which are between the two, also present a similar structure. Pesarly outer rocks have some heads which never cover with the tide. These rocks are very bold, and extend about 1^ miles from N. E. to S.W. The Eyaya reefs con- sist of two patches which have some rocks always shewing above water, and are joined by a rocky ledge which is always covered. The northern Eyaya is 2 miles West of the South Pesarly Rock and the southern Eyaya 2J miles farther, and nearly in the same direction. Two miles S. by W. of the North Eyaya is the outer dry rock and reef of Patta, which is a circular patch of half a mile in diameter, steep on all sides and having a deep channel nearly 3 quarters of a mile wide between it and the flats of Eyaya. The outer 4 fathoms banks are more than half a league S. by E. and S. E. by S. from the outer Patta rock, and the Manda 6 fathoms bank, a league S. S. W. ^ W. from it. capt. Owens " Comiug from the northward with the N. E. monsoon, Seewy Reef may be coasted in from 12 to 14 fathoms, or keeping Kwyhoo Peak nothing to the eastward of N. E. by N. until the western extremity of Patta East cliffs opens to the southward of Seewy Reef. The reef may then be coasted at a convenient distance and at a convenient depth by the lead." " If you desire to avoid the middle patch of 3j fathoms, by passing to the eastward of it, the western extreme of Patta East cliff bears N.W. by N. from it and the channel between it, and the S.W. end of Seewy sand is clear half a mile wide. But it may by many be preferred to sound on this middle patch ; the passage between it and the North Pesarly rocks is well open within or to the northward of the North Pesarly ; a ship may steer as she will and choose any berth in Patta Bay, taking care to avoid the 1^ fa- thoms knoll ; or steer for the eastern cliffs of Kizingaty Island from any part of the pass or channel between Pesarly and Seewy reefs, until the north rocks of Eyaya are on with the east bluff head or sand-hills upon Manda Islands, S.W. by W. | W., with the southern rocks of Eyaya well open to the northward of the northern rocks. She may then steer W. S.W, for Albatross iVIangrove Island ; and anchor anywhere between the flat, which extends near half a mile South of Kizingaty cliffs and the North rocks of Eyaya: this part of Patta Bay is called Khor Eyaya; a reef extends two cables' lengths N. E. from the North rocks of Eyaya." * The Ternate went in by this channel in 1811, and came out by the middle channel, where not more than 2 or 2|- fathoms could be found. The chief of Patta endeavoured to deceive Captain Smee, although he had a letter from the Bombay Government ; and after several days' delay, with some apprehension for the safety of his vessel, he was forced to leave this unfriendly place without obtaining any supplies. tlirt'clions. ii^ KWYHOO BAY — DUN DAS ISLANDS. 279 " If a ship in the northern monsoon desire to enter Patta Bay by the channel, South of Pesarly rocks, she may coast that ledge as close as convenient, and haul into the bay, round the south end, steering for the east end of Kizingaty, until the northern Eyaya be on with the east bluff, and sand-hill of Manda, as before directed, and she may pass over or on either side of the middle patch of 3i fathoms, which is in this pass, likewise about mid-way, and in the same line as the southern Pesarly rocks and northern Eyaya rocks," " There is another channel which had better not be attempted by strangers, between the Eastern shores of Manda and the southern rocks of Eyaya." " If in the southern monsoon a ship be sailing into Patta Bay, after rounding Ras Kattow or the south part of Manda Island, she may steer N.E. by N. for the outer reef of Patta, and coast that on either side as convenient, then steer for the Pesarly rocks until the town of Patta be open to the north of the northern Eyaya rocks, bearing N.W. by N., when she may steer for the east end of Kizingaty, and proceed as before directed." The soundings are 30 and 32 fathoms about 5 or 6 miles outside the reefs, and 9 or 10 fathoms close to them. Inside, near the inner edges, the general depths are from 5 to 7 fathoms, shoaling towards the island. The proper anchorage is within the reefs, about 8 miles to the westward of the eastern channel, near Kizingaty Island, which lies to the East of Patta, in lat. 2° 8' S. It is high water at 4| hours, on full and Tides. change of the moon ; rise of tide, 9 to 11 feet. Variation 10° W. in 1824. KWYHOO BAY or ROAD is an anchorage at the entrance of a large inlet about Kwyhoo Bay. 3 or 4 leagues N.E. of Patta. The entrance of the inlet is about G miles wide between Seewy Point to the S.VV, and the South Point of Kwyhoo Island to the N.E. The inlet about 2 miles within the entrance is divided into two branches by the land or islands of Fazy. The South end of Kwyhoo Island projects to the S.W. in a long narrow point, having a ledge of rocks, and beyond the rocks a bank stretching off it between 3 and 4 miles in the same direction. These are called by Capt. Owen, Boteler's Ledge and Bank, between which and the N.E. end of the Seewy Reefs, is the entrance to Kwyhoo Bay. The bay has from 4 to 8 fathoms water, with the Seewy Flats, which stretch across the western branch of the inlet, forming its north-western boundary. Kwyhoo Island is faced by high sand-hills, and near its S.W. end is a remark- able peak, upwards of 200 feet above the sea, according to Capt. Owen. From this peak the island narrows into the long projecting point before mentioned. Of Kwyhoo Bay, Capt. Owen remarks that " a ship stopping but a day or two will in the southern monsoon find the best anchorage under Seewy Reef on the West. But without the chart or a pilot ships in general should not try it ; and it may be as well to mention that the chart will be a better guide than most of the pilots to be had here." THE DUNDAS ISLANDS is the name given by Captain Owen to the chain of coastfrom islands fronting the coast from Kwyhoo, in 2° S. nearly to the equator. They are gene- |"„>;^,'°° '° ^' rally narrow, having their length parallel with the shore, from which they are rarely distant more than 2 miles, and hence may sometimes be mistaken for the main land ; there are reefs stretching out from, and uniting many of the islands, with fine bays or harbours among them. From lat. 1° 2' S., to 0° 22' S., a coral bank extends along the 280 DURNfORD PORT KEEAMA ISLAND, irregular chain of islands that fronts the coast; the outer edge of which is about 4 and 5 miles from the shore, and is steep to, the depth decreasing from 20 to 13 fathoms at one cast in standing on it, when a ship should immediatel}' tack. Durnford Port. Port Foott. Port Owen Johnes. Tides. DURNFORD PORT and RIVER are situated about the centre of that interval of coast which is fronted by the Dundas Islands. The remarkable hilly peninsula of Boorgal is in the N.E. side, and between the ledge of rocks extending from the South point (called Foott Point), of this peninsula, and the opposite ledge, which terminates the reefs lining the S.W. shore, is the entrance channel to the port. It is about a quarter of a mile wide, with 5 and 6 fathoms water, and from 3 to 9 or 10 fathoms higher up towards the entrance of the river. There are some habitations on the western side, the largest village being 6 miles from the entrance. The sand-heads on each side of the entrance dry at spring tides; the eastern sand- head lies about half a mile W. by N. from the South point (Foott Point), of Boorgal Peninsula, and the western one about a mile from the same point in the same direc- tion. There is a small island on the western sand bank called Joyce Island, and on a point higher up some ruins, opposite which on the eastern side is Deep Water Point. About 2 miles higher up the river on its western shore is Point Henderson, and off it Duncan Island. There is a 2j fathoms patch, about half a mile inside the eastern sand-head which should be passed to the westward. Ships therefore may steer in between the entrance ledges of rocks on a W.N.W. course, until Point Hen- derson just touches, and is about to open with Deep Water Point bearing nearly N.W. f N., which is the mark for clearing the patch ; and when the centre of Joyce Island is brought to bear West, keep in mid-channel. Between Foott Point and the eastern sand-head, there is a very snug little anchorage and harbour in the northern monsoon ; Capt. Owen has named it Port Foott. Round the north-eastern point of Boorgal is a deep bay, called by Capt. Owen Port Owen Johnes, and described by him as " a commodious harbour still in use by the coasting craft." About 4 leagues N.E. of Durnford there is another river, between the entrance of which and Toola Island, there appears to be an anchorage, and 4 leagues further, the River of Shamba, fronted by the long narrow island of Thooala, which shelters the anchorage. The South Point (called by Capt. Owen Point Foott), of Boorgal Peninsula, is in lat. 1° 13' S., Ion. 41° 54' E. High water at 4| hours on full and change, rise of tide 12 feet. Variation 10° 5' W. in 1825. Keeama and Kismayoo Islands. KEEAMA, or CUAMA ISLAND, in lat. 0° 44' S., may be known by two remarkable trees on it, seen at a considerable distance; and 4 or 5 miles more to the north-eastward lies Kismayoo Island, having on it three white patches, and within these islands and the others to the S.W. there is an inner passage for small vessels having various soundings, from 7 to 2 or 1|- fathoms sandy bottom. Kismayoo Island has a village on the N.W. side, and near to its south point in lat. 0° 40' S., there is a channel nearly a mile wide, with from 4 to 6 fathoms, leading to a spacious bay or harbour, where ships may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms close to the S.W. part of that island, or inside the rocky islets that project from the north point of Keeama, and which bound the south side of the entrance. This anchorage, by Capt. Owen's D^DALUS SHOAL — GOVIND RIVER. 281 survey appears to be the best for large vessels of any of the inlets or harbours to the northward of Port Durnford. Dj3EDALUS shoal, consisting of several rocky patches, about 4 leagues S.S.W. Dicdaius from Joob River, on which H. M. S. Dicdalus struck, in standing out from the shore; ^'"'*'- she had from It) to 10, 0, and 4 fathoms, then struck three times very hard, and by the swell running higli, she was lifted over the rocks, plainly seen along-side, into 14 fathoms water. This danger is in lat. 0° 24' S., Ion. 42° 30' E., by the survey, and 4 or 5 miles off shore, near some islands which form a bay witiiin tiiem ; when the ship struck, the body of these islands bore W. ^ S., distant 4 or 5 miles. The coast hereabout is low, with sand-hills facing the sea in many places, and the surf runs high upon the shore, except where it is sheltered by islands or projecting headlands. GOVIND or WOWVEENDA PaVER, called Joob or Juba, by the Arabs, covind ui»cr also Rogues River, or Rio dos Fuegos, on the coast of Ajan ; the entrance is ^^Jf'" situated in lat. 0° 14' S., Ion. 42° 39' E.,* by Captain Owen's survey. Juba Town is composed of a few huts, situated on an eminence about a mile inside the river's entrance, which has a bar on which the surf beats high. It is high water at 4^ hours, on full and change of moon, and the tide rises 9 or 10 feet. Variation 8° W. Tides. in 1825. Boats may pass over the bar at high water during the fair season, but the perfidy of the natives should deter European ships from visiting this place. H. M. ships The Natives Leopard and Daedalus being very short of water, anchored here in December, 1798, ECopeam. expecting to procure a supply of this necessary article, or other refreshments; two boats upset in the surf, and although the natives at first appeared in a supplicating manner, they soon collected in numbers from behind the sand-hills, assaulted with their spears the boat's crew, and killed Lieut. Mears with several of the men. Ex- cepting those that were killed, and two that were taken and made captives,! the remainder of the crews were chased by the savages along the beach 8 or 9 miles' distance to the southward, and taken up after sunset, in a small bay, by one of the boats that followed them along the beach. It was off the three islands which form this small bay that the Daedalus struck on the coral shoal, after having run down to pick up the boat containing the men who escaped the massacre. In the latter part of November, December, January, and part of February, the Cmnu and currents set along this coast to the south-westward, frequently 2 miles an hour, and "'"'^'• the wind prevailed generally fresh at E.S. E., veering two or three points at times. These ships continued to beat close to the coast during the time mentioned above, between lat. 1° N. and 1° S. Had they stood out into the open ocean, they would have got out of the strong current, which runs along the coast in soundings, and have been able to beat up to the Red Sea against the monsoon. Between Zanzibar and the equator, the current in March began to set to the north-eastward. That the above-named ships, under Admiral Blanket, would have effected their passage had tiiey steered out from the land, may be reasonably inferred by the follow- ing brief notice of a passage in one of the king's ships. * Captain Smee made it in Ion. 1° 24' West of Brava, by chronometer, or in Ion. 42° 4 G' E. t When the Leopard and Dsedalus were at Zanzibar procuring water and provisions, intelligence was received by the Arab coasting vessels, that there were two Europeans alive at Juba, and on the returning passage up the coast toward the Red Sea, the former ships anchored off Rogues River, and with great difficulty recovered these two men, after giving the savages arms, ammunition, and other things, to obtain their release. 2 o 282 BRAVA — MUKDEESHA. H.M.S, Imogene, Captain H. Hart, sailed from Zanzibar February 7th, 1834, and with E. N. E. winds reached the equator on the 15th, close to the coast of Africa. From hence with northerly, N. E. and variable winds, she stood to the eastward on the south side of the equator till in Ion. 58° E., where she crossed it on the 27th, and with N. E. winds steered to the northward, being within 50 leagues of Socotra on the 12th March. The winds continued between N. E. and North until she arrived at Bombay, March 29th. COAST OF AFRICA, FROM THE EQUATOR TO RAS JAR D'AFOON WITH THE ISLAND OF SOCOTRA. Coast from Goviad River to Brava. Brava. Tides. Coast from Brava to Muk- lieesha. Mukdeesba. FROM the entrance of Govind River, to the town of Brava, the coast extends nearly N. E. by E. the distance about 38 leagues. This part of it is usually rather low and sandy, with a high surf beating against the shore, but the soundings along it are more regular than on the coast of Zanzibar, and ships may approach it in many places within 2 or 3 miles of the shore. BRAVA, in lat. T 1' N., Ion. 44° 3' E.,* by captain Owen's survey, is a town close to the sea, belonging to the Arabs, and seems well built ; close to it lie several small islets or rocks, which break off the sea, and about a mile to the southward of the town on a small peninsula, there is a pagoda or tower, resembling a lighthouse. Inside the outer islets, called Barrette Rocks, the country boats lie sheltered in 3 to 2J fathoms water : ships may anchor outside in 7 or 8 fathoms water, or in greater depth, but the road is exposed to a heavy swell, which rolls in with winds from seaward. Cattle and goats were seen to the southward of this place, and on other parts of the coast, but none were observed at Govind River, although they appeared in abundance 15 or 16 leagues to the southward of that place. The tide rises 8 feet, and it is high water on full and change at 4h, 30m. About 10 leagues to the S.W. of Brava, there are several high white sand patches near the shore. Variation 10° W. in 1824. From Brava, tlie coast extends nearly E. N. E. about 34 leagues to Mukdeesha. Between them, the coast is bold to approach, sterile, sandy, destitute of trees, with a few islands near it in some parts ; but it abounds with cattle and goats, and has on it the towns of Torra, Mongoova, Marka, Jillip, Horealy, Denan, and Gezeerat, the latter is in lat. 1° 53' N., Ion. 45° 1' E., and nearest to Mukdeesha. MUKDEESHA, or MAGADOXA, in lat. 2° 2' N., Ion. 45° 24' E. by Captain Owen's survey, is the principal town on this part of the coast of Africa, Captain Smee, of the Ternate Bombay Cruizer, made it in Ion. 44° 10' E. by mean of lunar observations and chronometer. WARSHEK POINT — TERN ATE SHOAL — RAS ASOOAD. 283 easily known by three or four remarkable mosques or minarets, resembling towers, but which are tombs for the dead ; there is also to the eastward of the town, a large copse of trees, but no river. A reef of coral rocks fronts the town, extending 3 or 4 miles to the eastward, within which is a narrow channel with 10 or 12 feet water at low spring tides, and having a sandy beach inside : no ground at the distance of 3 or 4 miles from the shore. Variation 9° W. in 1824. In 1700, the Albemarle Conduct of uk- anchored in 30 fathoms to the eastward of Mukdeesha, in sight of the town. She ^»'''"''- sent a boat on shore, which was seized by the natives, and they fired on the long-boat, whilst endeavouring to open a communication with them. The inhabitants of these towns, like those of Juba, may be considered hostile to Europeans. WARSHEK POINT is in lat. 2° 30' N., Ion. 40° 7' E., N. E. of which a reef \yarshck stretches full a league S.S.W. i W. from the rocky beach of the point next to the ^'°'"'- N.E. of Warshek, and to the S.W. the shore is skirted by rocky reefs for nearly 3 leagues. Upwards of 2 miles from the shore lies the dangerous shoal of Warshek, inside of which the Leven passed in 1825 without seeing it or having any indication of it until announced by the lead ; but when clear of it breakers were seen, and it is supposed there must be less than 3 fathoms water on it, as the Leven passed over in 3J. Immediately to the westward of this shoal commences the VVARSHEK warshck Rc«f. REEF, which fronts the shore for 6 or 7 leagues at half a league off. The Leven coasted this reef from a quarter to half a mile outside, sounding with upwards of 40 fathoms. The shores inside the reefs are rocky. From Mukdeesha to Ras Asooad, or Aswad, the distance is about 71 leagues, and coasttoihu- the general direction of the coast about N.E. by E., the variation being: 7° W. in "ofi'Mst- 1824 "-"'■ To the northward of Mukdeesha about 4 leagues, a chain of hills extends from thence several leagues farther in that direction, and there is a bay, with white sand- hills, and a range of small islands, steep to, near the shore. Farther to the eastward there is another bay with white sand-hills, and a bank lines the shore along this part gj,„t. of the coast, having on it very irregular soundings. A ship in standing on the edge of this bank should tack immediately after getting soundings, for the depth decreases suddenly from 40 to 10, 5, and 3 fathoms coral, in some places. The whole of the coast is in general a sandy soil, rather low and sterile. The prevailing winds in winds and March are from S.E. and E.S.E., the current then changes, and sets afterward to the E.N. Eastvvard. Currents. TERNATE SHOAL, in lat. 3° 15' N., projects about 2 or 3 miles from the shore, Xemate si.oai. which the ship of this name nearly ran upon in 1811 ; she had soundings of 18 and 20 fathoms near it on the outside, and the sea breaking upon the shoal first pointed it out ; this danger stretches out from a point of low land, otherwise destitute of any distinguishing marks. Between Ternate Shoal and Ras Asooad, the coast is mostly low with soundings close to the shore ; the entrance of the doubtful River Doara is supposed to be in Ooara River, about lat. 4° N., but no indication of a river appeared to Captain Smee in this situa- tion, although cattle and natives were seen from the ship when sailing near the coast. RAS ASOOAD, or ASWAD, or Black Point, in lat. 4° 30' N., Ion. 48° 1' E., Ra, Asooad. by the survey of Captain Owen, who describes it as a point of low black cliffs projected 2 o 2 284 RAS AWATH— RAS-UL-KHYLE— RAS MABBER — RAS HAFOON. from sand-hills over the beach into the sea; it has low land near it to the southward, but the elevated land of Ul Hherab lies to the northward, which may be seen at the distance of 9 or 10 leagues. The Ternate had soundings of 20 and 30 fathoms in coasting along near the shore in this part. Kas Awath. RAS AWATH, in lat. 5° 33' N., Ion. 48° 40' E., is about 24 leagues N.E. by N. from Ras Asooad, and fronted by a reef; the coast forms a small concavity between these headlands, with soundings of 20 to 40 fathoms, 2 or 3 leagues off shore. Some hills extend from Ras Awath a little way to the northward, and afterwards the coast becomes low with sand-hills in some places, and taking a direction about N.N.E., with soundings within a few miles' distance of 18 to 10 fathoms, and from 23 to 40 fathoms at 3 or 4 leagues' distance. Ras-ui-Khyie. RAS-UL-KHYLE, or MORO COBIR POINT, i.e. Serpent's Head, in lat. 7° 43^' N., Ion. 49° 45' E., by the survey, is formed of three distinct cliff points, and is the south extreme of Negro Bay. The land to the southward is moderately high, but the coast of Hazine* to the northward of Ras-ul-Khyle, is low and rocky to a great extent. From Ras Asooad to this place, the land is generally sterile, of an even appearance when seen at a considerable distance, but is little frequented by Euro- peans. Captain Owen describes the Leven, in hauling off shore for the night, to have struck soundings on a 6 fathom knoll when the northern point of Ras-ul-Khyle bore S.W. by W. ^ W. about (5 miles. The water shoaled from 19 to 6^ fathoms, then deepening regularly to 26 fathoms on the edge of the bank 8 miles E. ^ S. from off the northern point of Ras-ul-Khyle. Circumstances did not admit of a close examination of the soundings near this point, but he thinks it merits further attention, although the pilot was not aware of anv danger on this part of the coast. Variation 6° W. near Ras-ul-Khyle, in 1824. RasMabber. RAS MABBER, or CAPE STAND-OFF, in lat. 9° 29' N., Ion. 50° 50' E., by Capt. Owen's survey, is fronted by a reef, and the contiguous land is usually rather low. The name of the cape indicates the customary practice of the Arab coasters, bound to the northward, who always run out from this point with the southerly monsoon, in order to round Ras Hafoon, and avoid the dangerous intervening deep bay, a needful precaution, as will soon be perceived. According to Captain Owen, Ras Mabber has good anchorage in 6 fathoms on its northern side, the coasters frequently stopping there for water. About 8 leagues to the southward, there is a projecting point of land, between which and the former a concavity is formed, which should not be entered, being imperfectly known : soundings do not extend far from the shore. Ra. Hafoon, or RAS HAFOON, or CAPE ORFUI (eastern extreme), in lat. 10° 28' N., Ion. CapeOrfm. ^jo 22' g^ by Captain Owen's survey, or 4 miles East of Ras Jar d'Afoon, is a penin- sula 300 feet above the sea, joined to the main land by a low and narrow sandy isthmus which extends 3 leagues East and West, forming a deep bay, with good anchorage on either side according to the season. During the northern monsoon. Supplies. the Arab coasters lie in the southern bay, where wood, water, and refreshments may be procured. The peninsula is also said to abound with cattle, sheep, camels, and * Hazine is the name given to this coast by the Arabs, signifying '* Rough Ground," which descriptive term has been corrupted by Europeans into Ajan, Azon, and Azamea. Southward of Ras-ul-Khyle is Sef^ Tweel, " The Bald," or " declining shore," and after that Herab, or " Mountainous country." RAS JAR D'AFOOX, OR CAPE GUARDAFUI. 285 horses. It is under the dominion of a Somanli, who resides a few leagues in shore of Cape Delgado. To the south-westward of tliis cape, there is a |)art of the land his^h and flat liiie a barn, which appears at a distance separated from the Cape land, the space between them being low ; and the flat land called Barn Hill, is in lat. 10^ 17' N* Barn hiii B.y, Several ships bound to the Red Sea, with provisions and necessaries, and some oVfui."' ^"'"' with water for the troops employed on the expedition to Egypt, got into the bay to the southward of Ras Hafoon, in 1800 and 1801. One of these, a ship belonging to Bengal, got into this bay in the night, and was lost ; the commander, Captain Baird, and the crew, were supposed to have perished. The Jehanghire, and other ships from Bombay, also got into this bay in the night, when steering to make the land ship, e,ni.»,e.i about Ras Hafoon, and with great difliculty got clear of it, by carrying a press of sail. '■' i^e nigiu. The Mornington, June 21st, 1801, at sunset had the land bearing from S.VV. by W. to N. by W., distant 7 or 8 leagues ; steering N. by E. and N. by E. J E., at 1 1 p.m., shoaled the water, and hauled out E. by S. ; at 1 a.m., the land was seen a-head E. by S., wore and stood W.S.W. 6 miles, then tacked and lay up E. S. E. with the wind at South. When day-light appeared, -found we had entered a deep bay, the eastern extremity of it, Ras Hafoon, bearing E. N. E. These examples are sufficient to evince the propriety of ships steering for this part of the coast being cautious in thick weather, or during the night. In rounding Ras Hafoon, the three projecting headlands of which it is formed may be perceived, stretching nearly North and .South, about 2^ leagues; the middle of these stretches farthest out, and is the easternmost point of Africa. The land about the cape is even, without any mark, excepting the low space between it and Barn Hill. The soundings about 3 miles off", are 40 fathoms; variation 4° 4' West in v.riaiion. 1824. In lat. 10° 34' N. is situated Hor Hardea, an inlet on the north side of the isthmus Hor Hardta. of Ras Hafoon. The pilot of the Leven stated this port to have 7 fathoms in its entrance, and 12 fathoms within it, with deep water close to its shores; also tiiat the inlet extends several miles inland and is very spacious : he had himself never been in it, but described its position as it is placed on the Chart. " There is reason to believe, however," adds Captain Owen, " that it may be 2 or 3 leagues nearer to Ras Banna, although we fancied that we saw the beach clearly every where as delineated on the chart, yet it is possible that a narrow entrance may have escaped observation at the distance we were off" shore. The man who was then our interpreter, says now (in 1834) that he has since been in this port, and he confirms this description of it." RAS JAR D'AFOONf or CAPE GUARDAFUI, the north -eastern most pro- Rasjar montory of Africa, is about 30 leagues North of Ras Hafoon ; the coast between them cf ^'^^"^'^ forming two large bays, which are separated nearly mid-way by the bluff' headland of dafui. Ras Banna, in lat. 11° 12' N. There are soundings of from 40 to 60 fathoms within Ras Banna. 2 leagues of the shore, between Capes Hafoon and Jar d'Afoon. The land around Ras Jar d'Afoon is higher than the other headlands on the East coast of Africa, and to the southw^ard of the cape there is a high mountain that may * Lat. by Captain Owen 10° 15' N. Summit 800 feet high. t Captain Owen has given this name to the projecting part of the land that is in lat. 11° 41 J' N. and 7^ miles to the southward of Ras Jar d'Afoon ; and to the latter he has given the name of Has Asser, but it may- be preferable to continue the name of Jar d'Afoon, or Guardafui, to the north-eastern extremity of Africa, as hitherto marked by geographers. 28G SOCOTRA ISLAND. Position of Ras Jar d'Afoon. Tamareed, or Hadeboo Bay. Supplies. be seen a great distance. Between them the land is craggy at the top, with some low, even land underneath, which appears separated from it, and forms like double land. From hence the declivity towards the cape forms several notches, at regular distances, which appear like steps, and make the cape easily known. The shores around it are bold; tlie Blenheim, in 1710, had 15 fathoms fine white sand with the outer point of Ras Jar d'Afoon bearing South, distant 4 miles; and the Susannah got close to the cape, into 10 fathoms, in the night. Variation near the cape 4° 6' \V. in 18-24. This cape is in lat. 11° 50' N., Ion. 51° 29' E., by mean of many lunar observations and chronometers: several persons have made it 21° 25^' West of Bombay, by chrono- meters, but Captain Smee, in 1811, made it 21° 29' W. from Bombay, which would place it 3g- miles more to the West, or in Ion. 51° 25|^' E. Captain Owen's survey of this coast places the extremity of the cape in lat. 1 1° 49' N., Ion. 51° 18' E., or 8 or 10 miles more West than its position by other authorities ; and the whole of the longitudes given by this otficer are farther to the westward than those previously laid down. SOCOTRA, or SOKTRA ISLAND, extends nearly East and West 71 miles, and its greatest breadth is 22 miles, according to the excellent survey, in 1834, by Captain Haines and Lieutenant Wellsted, of the Indian Navy, from which the following description and directions have been chiefly furnished. It is generally composed of high mountainous land and granite peaks, and excepting a few of the headlands that have projecting reefs, the shores of the island are bold to approach, with soundings at a considerable distance in some places. There are several anchoring places, which may be used according to the prevailing monsoon ; but those affording shelter during the easterly monsoon, on the S.W. side of the island, having few inhabitants, refresh- ments, or good water, are not convenient for ships. Tamareed, or Hadeboo Bay, on the north side of the island, where the chief resides, also called by the Arabs Bunder Beeland, or the Town Anchorage, is 10 leagues distant from Ras R'dresser, the East Cape ; it is the most eligible place for getting refreshments, Tamareed being the principal town, but the anchorage is indiffe- rent.* This place is known by a point of sand, that forms the eastern anchorage, about 1 or l^ miles off shore, in 10 to 13 fathoms sand and coral, with the town South or S. by W. On the north coast, in coming from the eastward towards Tamareed Bay, two white sand-hills may be perceived, the westernmost of which is much the larger, and about 4 miles to the westward of it is the town, over which are high craggy granite peaks, resembling chimnies, visible 7 leagues off. When the bay is approached in the S.W. monsoon, the coast should be kept a-board from the east end of the island, as the wind blows in gusts off the high land. No ground is got with 100 fathoms line within 3 or 4 miles of the coast from the east point of the island to Ras Howlaf, which is about 5 miles to the E. N. E. of Tamareed, but to the westward of that headland, and fronting the bay, the bank extends farther off shore, with gradual soundings from 5 to 20 fathoms, the town bearing south-westerly, with high land over it, in notches like chimnies. Bullocks, goats, sheep, and fish may be procured here at reasonable prices, and good water, which runs from the mountains into a sandy valley * On the 9th of October, 1701, the Discovery, Indiaman, anchored in 6 fathoms sandy bottom, with the town of Tamareed bearing S.S.W. distant 1 mile, the easternmost point E. by N. J N. 3 leagues, and the western part of the island in sight W.N.W. distant 8 leagues. Variation about f of a point westerly at that time. SOCOTRA ISLAND. 287 Nativci. Pus!t!oiis by C'spt. Owen. Ras Kuurma. KntliOdb Bay, Ras Kadarmar. among date trees, about a quarter of a mile from the town. Captain Tait, of H.M.S. Grampus, made the anchorage in lat. 12°39'N. Captain Haines' survey makes the town in lat. 12° 39' N., Ion. 54° 6^' E., or 18° 49' West of Bombay. The natives are poor, and have been usually hospitable to strangers: rice is an essential article to barter with them for refreshments. Good aloes may be procured, and at times, dragon's blood in small quantities, grapes, water-melons, pumpkins, oranges, and plantains may be got in March and April, and plenty of dates in June. Captain Owen touched at Socotra, in H.M.S. Leven, during his survey of the eastern coast of Africa, and gives the geographical position of the following places, which differ considerably from the longitudes by the survey of Capt. Haines, of the Indian Navy. Captain Owen places Ras Shaaeb, called also Ras Rarby, the west jioint in lat. 12° 30' N., Ion. 53° 8^' E. The east point in lat. 12° 31^' N., Ion. 54° 32:^' E. Tamareed Town in lat. 12° 30|' N., Ion. 53° 46' E. Pyramid Rock in lat. 12° 44f' N., Ion. 53° 27' E., and the N. E. point of Gollonsier Road in lat. 12° 43' N., Ion. 53° 23A' E. Ras Kourma, in lat. 12° 38' N., Ion. 53° 5G' E., by the survey of Captain Haines. The eastern low point of Kourma Bay is about 3 leagues to the westward of Tamareed, and may be known by a few rising sand-hills near it : a reef projects off it, about 300 yards, and along the shore to Ras Tahal, about two miles to the eastward. The small bay and village of Kathoob are about 3^ miles to the eastward of Ras Kourma ; which bay is more sheltered from the westerly monsoon than that of Tamareed. Ras Kadarmar, in lat. 12° 42' N., Ion. 53° 43' E., bearing W. N.W. | W. from Ras Kourma, distant 4^ leagues, terminates in a low point from a bluff close to it, and forms the western boundary of Gubet Kourma, a large bay, which affords tolerable shelter in 5 or 6 fathoms sand and shells, by anchoring in its eastern part under Ras Kourma, with the point bearing N. E. by E., about half a mile offshore ; but the west side of the bay is a lee shore in the easterly monsoon ; the bottom is mostly sandy and rocky, but the depths decrease gradually to the low coast surrounding the bay ; about 5 or 6 miles inland the country becomes mountainous. Ras Bashuree, distant 4^ miles VV, by N. from Ras Kadarmar, and the coast for 2 miles farther west to Ras Summaree, is the most northerly part of Socotra, where the mountains are nearly 2,000 feet high, and almost perpendicular from the coast line in some places, with a rocky beach along the shore. A pyramidal rock nearly 150 feet high, is joined to Ras Bashuree by a narrow neck of land about 50 yards in length : from which rock soundings begin to extend again, a considerable way out from the coast to the westward ; but from Ras Kadarmar to Ras Bashuree, although there are soundings near the shore, none are found at 3 or 4 miles' distance. Ras Gollonsier, about 4 miles to the westward of Ras Bashuree, and forming the eastern point of Gollonsier Bay, may be known by four small granite peaks on it, and by the hills near them being in some places covered with sand. Between Ras Gol- lonsier, and Ras Summaree, the coast is fronted by a shoal extending midway between the capes a mile off shore, dry at low water in some parts, with patches of 2 fathoms near its edge, to which the soundings gradually decrease. Gollonsier Bay, which affords anchorage in the N. E. monsoon, is formed by the GoiionsicrB.i) bluff cape Ras Bedoo to the westward, and Ras Gollonsier to the eastward. It is the anchorage used by the Arabs, and it possesses many advantages over that called Watering Bay by Europeans. The town or village of Gollonsier, about a mile to the southward of the cape, is small, not containing 200 inhabitants, but Captain Haines procured a plentiful supply of wood and water, sheep and goats ; a few fowls, beans, Ras Bashuree. Ras Gollon- sier. 288 SOCOTRA ISLAND. Tides. Has Bedoo. Shaacb Bay. Hills. Ras Shaaeb. Tides. Bunder Nea. Ras Kattannie. and pumpkins were also obtained, but no bullocks. The Mosque is ia lat. 12° 41^' N., Ion. 53° :U^' E. The best anciiorage is in 4 fathoms low water, with the northern granite peak on Ras GoUonsier JN. E. by E. | E., the Mosque S. E. by E. off' the sandy beach or best landing place 800 yards. High water at 7 hours 20 minutes oh full and change of moon. Rise and fall of tide 8 feet, and the flood sets to the eastward. This bay affords no shelter from the westerly monsoon. Ras Bedoo, in lat. 12° 39' N., Ion. 53° 28i' E., terminating in a bluff" about 300 feet high from the Gibbal Maallee mountains, forms the north-eastern boundary of Gubet Shaaeb, a tine bay, having regular soundings all over it, without any danger a quarter of a mile from the shore. To the northward of Ras Bedoo, no soundings were got at the distance of a mile, but to the westward of it, soundings of 20 to 34 fathoms extend several miles, rocky bottom, and good fishing ground. Shaaeb Bay is 4 or 4^ miles in extent, between Ras Bedoo and Ras Shaaeb, afford- ing good shelter from the N.E. monsoon, but completely exposed to the S.W. Although the water in this bay is smooth in the N. E. monsoon, strong gusts of wind at the phases of the moon sometimes blow from the high land, raising the water as a whirlwind from the surface of the sea, requiring great caution when under sail. The best anchorage is in JO fathoms with the points of the bay N. ^ E., and S.W. by \V. ^ VV., off" some mangrove trees, close to which is a lagoon of salt water, rising and falling with the tide at the beach of the sea, although they are separated by a bank of sand 400 yards in breadth. The lagoon is in lut. 12° 35' N., Ion. 53° 28' E., and a mile to the north-eastward of the small village Marthiuh Gibboose, where some good water is obtained from wells ; the village consists of a few huts only, and the whole population of the bay probably may be about 150 persons, who live in caverns, or natural excavations. About 2| miles eastward of Ras Shaaeb are two remarkable hills, like ears, 1,488 feet high from the surface of the sea, which are visible from the S.W. side of the island; these bearing S.W. by S., are the best mark for the anchorage, and Ras Shaaeb W.S.W. in 10 fathoms, about three quarters of a mile oft" shore, in a soft white sandy bottom, where the water is smooth during the north-easterly monsoon. Ras Shaaeb, the western cape of Socotra, in lat. 12° 33' N., Ion. 53° 23' E., is the termination of the sloping side of a high mountain ; a reef extends from the cape about 300 yards. The coast from hence extends nearly S. E. by E. 11 miles in a direct line with a sandy beach, terminating at a sand-hill ; and at this part forming a bay, from which to Ras Kattannie the coast is rocky and precipitous, having 4, 5, and 6 fathoms water a few yards from it. The soundings along this part of the coast are usually sand and rocks, without danger, but about a mile from it, a 6^ fathoms bank extends parallel to the shore, for the greater part of this distance; which bank is not above half a mile in breadth, having 8 and 9 fathoms inside of it, and the same depths outside, with regular soundings to 20 and 25 fathoms water, about 5 or 6 miles off" shore. The ebb tide along this side of the island runs S. E. 1 mile per hour; rise and fall 7 feet on the springs ; high water at 7 hours on full and change of moon, very irregular. This part of the coast affords shelter from N. E. and North winds, and there is anchorage inside the narrow bank mentioned, in a little bay at the sand-hill, called Gubet Nea, or Bunder Nea, with 3 and 4 fathoms water very close to the shore, at the northern end of the rocky cliff's, where there is a small village. Ras Kattannie, in lat. 12° 22^' N., Ion. 53° 37' E., is a beautiful perpendicular head- land, elevated 1,455 feet above the sea, and has the same aspect when viewed either from eastward or westward. A chain of mountains called Gibbul Kueirah, nearly of SOCOTRA ISLAND, 289 equal height, extends from it o miles to the eastward, and tiie same chain continu''s Coa.notiiB nearly to the east end of the island, excepting a few passes througii the chain, by wliich """"''• the inhabitants go to Tamareed. Tiiis chain in most parts rises like a perpendicular wall from the low land, intercepted between its base and tiie sea, whicii belt is from two to four miles broad, and called JNowkad by the natives. This low land affords good pasturage for their numerous sheep and goats ; but the people were found to be Nuire.. very timid, always retreating with part of their flocks to the mountains, when Captain Haines, or his officers, wished to communicate with them : but having a native of the island on board, a conference was effected, and a good supply of sheep and milk was obtained from these harmless, and apparently honest people. The M'hole coast between Ras Kaltannie and Ras Fellingk is bold to approach, with Co«?t iwewwn soundings of 12 to 20 fathoms, extending from 4 to 12 miles off, and decreasing ni'/Hid "l\"' regularly towards the shore, although in some places there are overfalls of 2 and 3 '■"«''■ fathoms. On this side of the island, several reservoirs receive the drainage from the mountains, the water obtained by digging wells being brackish. One of tliese reser- Re«r»oiri. voirs, called Waddee Fellingk by the natives, is supplied by a fine stream of fresii water running through tiie low land, the reservoir or basin being separated from the sea by a bank of shingle : this reservoir is 3 leagues to the westward of Ras Fellingk, at the place where the sandy beach terminates in rocky cliffs facing the sea, and extend- ing eastward along the Fellingk shore. Here, during the fair season, a ship might easily pi'ocure a supply of fresh water, by anchoring in 7 fathoms; also sheep, if caution is taken to communicate with a few of the inhabitants ; otherwise they will retreat to the hills. Ras F'ellingk, about 18 leagues to the eastward of Ras Kattannie, and about G miles Kai Feiiingk. S.W. by W. ^ W. of Ras R'dresser, forms in a bluff cape, when viewed from the west- ward ; but on a near approach, a low point is perceived to project from it nearly a mile, between which and Ras R'dresser the coast forms a bay, with regular soundings, decreasing gradually to the shore. Bunder R'dresser is an anchorage formed to the south-westward of Ras R'dresser, Bundtr 'o H'limsur. where a vessel might anchor in 9 fathoms sand and rocks, in tolerably smooth water, during the N.E. monsoon, with the outer small patch of rocks on the detached reefs off R'dresser, bearing E.f S., the low point N.E. ^ E., and the high bluff of Momee W, i N. The channel formed between the detached reef and that projecting from the point, has depths of 7 to 9 fathoms, but being less than half a mile wide, with rapid currents or tides causing strong ripplings, it would be imprudent to pass through it, except with a strong leading wind in a case of emergency, particularly as there is no ground at 90 fathoms to the north-eastward of this intricate channel at the distance of half a mile from the shore of R'dresser. Ras R'dresser, in lat. 12° 34' N., Ion. 54° 35' E., is the extremity or low eastern cape of Ras Rdr^ser. Socotra, forming in twosmall rocky points,which are nearly a mile distant, bearing North and South of each other. A reef projects a quarter of a mile from both, and at the dis- tance of If miles to the eastward and northward you have 120 fathoms water, so as to prevent the lead from being a safe guide, in approaching this extremity of the island from the eastward, north-eastward, and northward. About a mile S.E. of the cape is a detached shoal, some of the rocks of which are above water, and between which and the shore reefs there is a channel, with from to 9 fathoms water. In the same direc- tion, at 8 miles' distance, there are 54 fathoms water, gradually decreasing to 30 and 2fc» fathoms, about a mile off tiie rocks. Ras Momee (Socotrean), or Ras Mutlar (Arabic), Cape East, in lat. 12° 34' N., R». Momce. 2 i> 290 SOCOTRA ISLAND. Bunder Fekah. Ras Dome. Ras Hamme. dara. Khore Gur- reah. Bunder Gurreah. Ras Deham- merie. Bunder Debenee. lon.54°3U' E., is a remarkable bluff mountain, 1,920 feet high, sometimes, from its form, called the Dolphin's Nose. It is the termination of the high chain that ex- tends the whole length of the island, and is seen in clear weather at a considerable distance, when the low extreme of Ras R'dresser, about 4 miles farther East, is not visible. Bunder Fekah, about 2 miles to the westward of the north point of Ras R'dresser, is a bay formed on the west side of a small sandy point, from which point a reef projects half a mile. This place forms a small anchorage, protected by the reef from easterly winds, where the small vessels from Cutch, or other places, stop to procure water in April and May on their pilgrimage toJuddah. Water is got from a well near the village, or from a spring which issues between the two eastern sand-hills. The best anchorage is with Momee Bluff S. 58° W., the outer break of the reef N. 42° E., Ras Dome N. 74° W. in about 12 fathoms. In approaching this anchorage, caution is requisite, for the sea does not shew the reef by breaking upon it, unless with a strong wind or heavy swell, and close to it there are 5 fathoms water, but 400 yards off no bottom at 60 fathoms. The village is small, the number of inhabitants probably amounting only to about 50 or 60, who are poor, timid, and inoffensive, some of them living in huts, or in excavations. Ras Dome,* bearing W.N.VV. ^ W., about 8 miles from the eastern point of Bunder Fekah Bay, is a sharp projecting cape, about 250 feet high, forming only a small con- cavity of the coast line; to the eastward of which scarcely a shrub is seen, except at the sand-hills mentioned as a watering place, where there are a few trees ; but to the westward of Ras Dome, both the hills and valleys appear verdant, interspersed with small villages which are inhabited by 20 or 30 poor people, who live on their flocks and fish, and supply good sheep or bullocks at a fair price. Ras Hammedara bears W. by N. ^N. distant 6 miles from Ras Dome, between which are the three date groves of Thouerah, Cloyef, and Tamerah, with a fine fresh water pool near Cloyef. The coast in this space is safe to approach, the bank of soundings projecting only from |^ to f of a mile from it: but JN.E. from the low point of Ras Hammedara, distant half a mile off shore, there is a rocky shoal nearly dry ; with a narrow channel of 5 to 7 fathoms between it and the shore reef that pro- jects 300 yards from the point. Khore Gurreah, a small creek between Ras Hammedara and Ras Dehammerie, is salt at the entrance, where it will not admit a boat, being nearly filled up : but inland, it unites with a fresh water stream, having its source several miles in the interior, with numerous date trees growing on its banks. Bunder Gurreah, a small bay formed by the projection of Ras Dehammerie, where a vessel might anchor in 6 to 10 fathoms water, sand and rocks, from :]; to ^ a mile off shore, with the extreme point of the cape bearing N.W. by N., or N.N.W"., where she would be well sheltered from the S.W. monsoon. Ras Dehammerie, a narrow low projecting headland, ^ to ^^ of a mile in breadth, bearing from the extreme eastern point of Ras Howlaf, E.S.E. ^ E., distant 11,434 yards, has on it two remarkable hillocks, by which it may easily be known, the north- ernmost about 130 feet high. On each side of this cape there is a small anchoring place, that on the eastern side called Bunder Gurreah, already mentioned ; and the western one, called Bunder Uebenee. No soundings with 280 fathoms line were got at the distance off of a mile North from Ras Dehammerie, nor is any obtained until * This name is applied on the chart to a point nearly 2 miles farther East than the one here described. 80C0TRA ISLAND. 291 within a few hundred yards of it. Close to the extreme point there is a rock, and a rocky spit of 2^ fathoms projects from a small rocky point to the S.W. of tlic former. A vessel might anchor to the S.W. of the same spit in 3 or 3^ fathoms, close in shore, with the point bearing E. N. E., but the bottom is coral rock, and the anchorage of Bunder Debenee seems not calculated for large vessels. Bunder Deleeshe, or Deleeche Bay, is formed between Ras Dehammerieand a ^lall Bunder point near Ras Howlaf, on which point there are the ruins of a little mosque or tomb : "'^'"'^''e. across this bay soundings extend a considerable distance from the shore, which is safe to approach, and it aflbrds the best shelter of any of the anchorages on the coast of Socotra during the S.W. monsoon. In the centre of the coast line there is a sand- hill, with a creek half a mile to the westward, called Khore Deleeshe, salt and Khore shoal at the entrance, and like Gurreah, united to a fine fresh water stream inland, iJ«'''"i"- with date trees on its banks. The sand-hill bearing S. or S. by E. is a good mark for the best anchorage in 7, 8, or 9 fathoms water, from a quarter to half a mile off shore. Ras Howlaf, before mentioned in describing Tamareed Bay, is nearly 3 miles N.W. Ras Howiaf. by W. of the ruined mosque already mentioned, and bears from the mosque of Tama- reed, N. E. by E. ^ E., distant nearly 5 miles. It consists of a low projecting cape, rising gradually towards the interior, and forming undulating sand hillocks, covered with a prickly bush : fronting the sea, it has small rocky points, with intervening sand beaches. The anchorage on the western side of Ras Howlaf is rather preferable to that of Tamareed Bay, yet with the wind at E. N.E., a considerable swell rolled in, but not so much as abreast of the town, where there was a breaking sea at the same time : neither was landing so difficult as in other parts of Tamareed Bay. The places affording shelter for ships are thus described by Captain Haines : — " Socotra has no points where a vessel could ride safely in all winds ; and it is only on I'lacMof opposite sides of the island that good shelter is found from the prevailing monsoon. '•'<'''"• There are, however, several bays and anchorages, sheltered from East and E. N.E. winds ; of which are Gubet Kourma, GoUonsier, Shaaeb, Bunder Nea, Bunder R'dresser ; also Bunder Fekah, and Tamareed, with the wind at East, if well in. For N. E. winds all these mentioned are tolerable, excluding Tamareed ; also, if close to the southern shores of the island, the anchorage may be tolerable in N. E. winds." " During the S.W. monsoon, a vessel may find shelter from the sea in all the bays on the north side of the island, between Ras Kadarmar and its eastern extremity ; these are Kourma, Kathoob, Tamareed, Deleshe, Gureah, and Fekah ; but, as the wind blows in violent gusts from the mountains, good ground tackling is necessary, the anchorage being usually on a narrow bank of sand or rocky bottom, which has a steep declivity to the northward out of soundings. Of all these anchorages. Bunder Deleeshe is the only one which the natives call perfectly safe during the S.W. monsoon, and where there is very smooth water." "The winds considered most dangerous along the north side of the island, by the winds and natives, are expected between the beginning of November and January, when, at the ''^'"'"''■ setting in of the N. E. monsoon, the squalls blow violently several days from N. N. E. with rain, and a high sea, rendering it almost impossible for anchors to hold. Captain Haines experienced one of these northerly gales so late as the 23rd February, 1834, while surveying on the south coast of the island." " From February to May is the fine weather season, when the anchorages on the northern coast are considered safe." " In June, July, and August, the natives say, the wind blows constantly in violent gusts from the hills on the north coast ; while at the low belt of Nowkad on the south 2 p 2 292 ABDUL KOORY ISLAND— SALT'S WHITE ROCKS. coast, the wind is more steady and less violent, with, however, a tremendous sea and surf." •' In these months rain foils in showers, but mnch less than the quantity that descends with tlie squalls of November, December, and January." " In September, October, and part of November, light land and sea breezes are expe- rienced ; and late in November the wind becomes gradually more settled from the northward."* .,ijgs " The tides are very irregular, sometimes running 16 hours in one direction, and at other times only 6 hours, depending much on the strength of the winds. The flood sets to the westward on the south coast, and to the eastward on the north coast ; and the ebb in opposite directions. The times of high water vary between 7 hours 20 minutes, and 8 hours 40 minutes in diflerent parts. The rise and fall from 6 to 8 feet. Currents around the island are chiefly dependent on the winds. Between the Arabian Currents. coast and Socotra, a W. S.W. current, of 40 miles per day, was experienced in January; and in March an easterly one of about 30 miles." Abdul Koory. ABDUL KOORY, or ABDUL-CURIA, ISLAND, mid-way between the west end of Socotra and Ras Jar d'Afoon, is a high rugged island, about 6 leagues in extent East and West, but narrow, with two hills near the centre, giving it the appear- ance of separate islands when seen at a great distance. It is inhabited by people miserably poor, having little food and indifferent water. The Ternate saw a bay or concavity on the west side of the island, but no soundings were obtained by this ship within 3 miles of the southern coast, in passing along. Captain Owen, nevertheless, has laid down soundings of 19 to 58 fathoms along this side of the island ; and he anchored in H. M. S. Leven, in a fine bay, formed by a narrow isthmus of sand-hills, with a coral bottom, which bay is directly at the western point of the high mountain on the south side ; but this place affords no refreshments for ships, although above 60 persons contrived to exist upon its barren soil. He places the west point in lat. 12° 12i' N., Ion. 52° 8' E., and the N. E. point in lat. 12° 11^' N., Ion. 52° 2.3' E. Other navigators make it farther to the eastward. High water here at 4^ hours ; Tides. I'ise of tide 8 feet on full and change of moon. Salt's White SALTS WHITE ROCKS have probably often been seen and mistaken for the Rocks. large island described above, although the real existence of this rocky islet was not known to navigators till Mr. Salt, returning from his embassy to Abyssinia, in the Marian, saw it at 1 1 a.m., 7th July, 1810, about 4 miles distant, when passing between it and Abdul Koory ; it then appeared to be a high white rock, about 5 or 6 leagues to the northward of the island, in about lat. 12° 27' N., by Mr. Salt's description. Cap- tain Owen's survey makes it in lat. 12° 23' N., Ion. 52° 9' E., or 6 leagues N.W. from t lie eastern point of Abd-ul-Curia. Captain J. Parkin of H.M.S. Bacchus, 15th of April, 1817, near 2 p.m. passed between the island of Abdul Koory, and the westernmost Brother, and in rounding the N. E. end of the former about 2 miles' distance, crossed over a shoal, having on it from 27 to 10 fathoms water: a strong current was then setting from the westward, and the wind being easterly, the sea broke into the gun-ports, although the weather was moderate. After passing the N. E. end of Abdul-Koory at 2 p.m. steered by compass N.W. * This description of the winds is chiefly from the report of the natives. THE BROTHERS — SABOYNA ROCKS. 293 by W. 23 miles, then saw High White Peaked Rocks bearing N. E. J E., distant 6 miles ; they were perfectly white, forming in five peaks, with a black rock fronting the sea when viewed in the bearing mentioned above, and may be discerned 7 or 8 leagues. THE BROTHERS, are two barren islands, the westernmost called Sumhah, in lat. The Broih.r.. 12° 6' N., being 6 miles in length ; and they are situated nearly W. N.W. and E. S. E. from each other, distant 8 miles, and 7 or 8 leagues from the western part of Socotra. The eastern one called Derzee or Duraja by the Arabs, is smallest, and bears North when on a transit line with the western end of Socotra. Soundings extend from the S.W. part of Socotra nearly to Derzee, and also to the southward and south-westward of them ; but at a small distance from Sumhah to the northward and westward there are no soundings at 140 fathoms. The Surat Castle, in 1805, was said to have got into 6 fathoms coral rocks in Pajsagebc attempting to pass between the Brothers, with strong ripplings and a turbulent swell, "•««"''"^"'- produced by the current, which made it prudent to relinquisli the attempt. But Capt. Haines in exploring the channel, found from 18 to 20 fathoms regular soundings, sand and rocky bottom, without any appearance of shoal water near, or in the passage between the islands, which is 7 miles wide. SABOYNA ROCKS, bear N.W. by W., 10 miles distant from Ras Shaaeb, the s»i.oyna west end, and 13^ miles W. i S. from Ras Bedoo, the N.W. point of Socotra. They resemble two ships under sail, when seen at 8 leagues' distance, being wiiite, and of considerable height. By Captain Owen's survey, they are in lat. 12° 40' N., Ion. 53° 2' E. The channel between them and Socotra is safe, with no soundings except near Socotra, or close to the Saboynas, which have 18 to 26 fathoms water very close to them, and to the distance of a mile from them. COAST OF AFRICA, FROM RAS JAR D'AFOON TO THE STRAITS OF BAB-EL-MANDEB. FROM RAS JAR D'AFOON, or CAPE GUARDAFUI, the coast extends 8^ d-ll^J" or 9 leagues W. N.W. to Ras Met, in lat 11° 55' N. by Captain Owen's survey ; the wardrthe'Rcd land fronting the sea, high and steep from the former cape, then it is a low barren Sea. plain, for 4 or 5 leagues to Cape Felix, but inland the country is mountainous. Between these capes, soundings are usually got within 2, 3, and 4 miles of the shore. Admiral Beaulieu, in August, KJIJ), anchored in six fathoms rocky ground, about four leagues West of Ras Jar d'Afoon, opposite to some green shrubs, very uncommon on the coast. Water was found by digging one or two feet deep, at first sweet, but J^Jj^yP'"' 294 RAS MET — RAS FELUK. after filling a short time, it became very salt, obliging them to dig in more than seventy different places, to obtain 22 tons of water, which, with 30 men sent on shore for the purpose, was done in 4 hours, the soil being sand. They had before anchored in 9 fathoms a little to the westward of Ras Jar d'Afoon. There are three headlands between this cape and Cape Felix, and a little to the east of the 2nd point or headland, the Arabia Merchant's boat landed 2nd June, 1705, where they found straggling huts in three places, forming small villages, the inhabi- Naiives. tants of which were friendly,* and bartered some fish, their chief food, for tobacco, beads, knives, &c. and they shewed a watering-place to the boat's crew. On the following day the boat landed, with suitable articles to purchase vi-hat could be got, farther westward ; she returned with 8 sheep and lambs, all with black heads, having also in a former voyage procured sheep here with the same marks. iteMet. RAS MET, or LOW POIJNT, situated about 5 leagues to the eastward of Cape Felix, projects considerably, forming a deep bay on each side, with a shoal spit extend- ing from the point, which ought to have a berth in passing. The Marian, at midnight 29th September, 1809, ha^ 10 fathoms water on this shoal. Mount Felix bearing W. by S. ^ S., distant about 5 leagues. On the 3rd of June, 1705, the Arabia Merchant, steering for this low point about W. N.VV. running along shore in 8 fathoms water, discerned the white sandy ground under the bottom when to the eastward of the point. In the bay between Low Point and Cape Felix, regular soundings extend 4 or 5 miles off shore, with anchorage in 8 fathoms sand about a mile from it ; the surrounding coast is low near the sea. Current. Dr. Vinceut, in his observations on this part of the coast, noticed by Mr. Salt in his voyage to Abyssinia, states, that the current runs out of this gulph during the wane of the moon, and into it during her increase, which seems to agree with the remarks of some navigators. But after the 1st of August, the current sets generally strong along the coast to the westward nearly to Zeyla Bay, often at the rate of 2J miles or 3 miles an hour near the shore. Ra. Feiuk.or RAS FELUK,t or CAPE FELIX, in about lat. 21° 0' N., Ion. 50° 46' E., or 42 Cape Felix. mlles west of Ras Jar d'Afoon by chronometer, is a high steep cliff of regular shape, projecting far into the sea, and the circumjacent land being low, gives it the appear- ance of an island, whether viewed from the eastward or westward ; it may be seen at 15 leagues' distance in clear weather, and there is very deep water within a quarter of a mile of it on the outside. Probably an It will bc sceu froui the following remarks, taken from original journals, that Mount Felix is probably insulated by an arm of the sea. Captain Saris, in 1612, states, that on the west side of Cape Felix, there is a Above a century back, it appears by the journals of the Company's ships, that the native Somaulees of this coast, were of the negro cast, as they are at present ; but at that time, they frequently came oiF in their canoes to ships passing along the coast, with fish, fishing lines, and sometimes a few goats, or fowls. From what httle we know of them at present, they are less friendly, and not to be trusted ; the crew of a ship, which was recently wrecked in the deep bay on the south side of Cape Orfui, mostly all perished by hunger, or by the inhumanity of the natives, in attempting to pass through this desert country toward Zeyla. And even in the beginning of the 18th century, a French ship's boat had 7 men killed by the natives in landing on this coast ; but in this instance they had landed before, and given umbrage to these Africans. t It is called also Mount Felix, and Mr. Salt observes, that it might with more propriety be called Mount Elephant, from the Arabic " Ras-el-Feel," which is its true name, being the Elephas Mons, also, of the Romans. Island. RAS GOREE— iMETTE ISLAND. 295 passage so wide, that three ships may go abreast witlioiit danger up to a town, where he got plenty of wood and water ; it is situated between iSlouut Felix and a low wmcr sandy point to the westward. The Arabia Merchant's journal, 4th June, 1705, describes a low saudy point, or spit, to bear W. by S. 3 leagues distant from Mount Felix, betwixt which tliere is a bay with fresh water, and inhabitants, as they were informed by tlie natives. The Discovery, from Mocha, 1st of October, 1701, sent her boat in shore, and the officer saw an inlet or river, about 2 miles to the West of Mount Felix, w ith the tide running out of it, but the water was salt. He was informed by one of the natives, through a linguist whom he had in the boat, that there was a tank of fresh water by the side of the river, and that they had goats and fowls for sale, but the officer did not put confidence in this information. The officer represented Mount Felix to be surrounded by the sea, he having gone round it, 2 leagues to the east- ward ; and in the journal of one of the following days, it is stated that al)Out 4 leagues to the west of the Mount, he saw the break in the shore, where there runs a quantity of water out of the sea, which vomited itself on the east side of Mount Felix. RAS GOREE, or CAPE ST. PETER, in about lat. 11° .37' N., distant about 10 Ras oorc. or 17 leagues W.S.W. of Mount Felix, seems to be the 4th headland from the latter, ^l"''^'""' the first being a low sandy spit, about 3 leagues to the westward of the Mount, with soundings between them from 14 to 6 fathoms near the shore, on which account the lead should be kept going until clear of the low sandy spit or point, and the shore ought not to be approached nearer than 2 or 3 miles. The next headland is about 4 leagues farther West, in a bay ; the third headland is about 12 leagues from Mount Felix, the coast between them forming a concavity, being low to the distance of 5 leagues from the latter, then high for 5 or 6 leagues, terminating in a plain of mid- dling height, which extends about 2 leagues W. by S. From the west end of this plain to Ras Goree, distant about 6 leagues, the coast is high, fronting a chain of rugged mountains ; and about 2 leagues to the eastward of this cape, there is a white patch like a small sandy bay,* having to the westward a small river. METTE ISLAND, in lat. 11° 21' N., Ion. 48° 58' E., or 2° 30' West of Ras Jar Motu uund. d'Afoon by chronometer, bears about W. by S. from Cape St. Peter, distant 20 or 21 leagues : the coast between them forms a bight, is moderately elevated, and very uneven. — Inland, there are high mountains, and in lat. 11° 18' N. about 7 or 8 leagues to the eastward of this island, close to the sea, in a bight, there is a Somaulee village : the soundings extend several miles from the shore. About 3 leagues eastward from Mette Island, there is a peninsula of moderate height, covered with hummocks, which appear separated. Between this peninsula and the island there is a bight, the shore of which is not high, but the ridge of moun- tains continues inland. The island is of middling height, the highest hill on it re- * It was probably near this place where a Portuguese frigate was wrecked in a bight near Cape St. Peter, in July, 1801, and part of the crew taken up by the Mornington. The Discovery, on the 18th of September, 1701, anchored in 12 fathoms white sand, about 12 leagues to the westward of Mount Felix, where some of the natives spoke Arabic, who informed the Discovery's ])cople that two Surat ships had been lost there, another captured by the pirates, and that they had no refreshments excepting a little salt fish. 29G AIS ISLAND — SOMAULEE — BERBERA. Ais, or Burnt Island. Fresli water. senibling a cap or bonnet : the interior of it, and all the coast adjacent, appears arid and sterile. AIS, or BURNT ISLAND,* called also Bird Island, or White Island, in lat. 11° l4'N.,t Ion. 47° 24' E., or 4° 4' West of Ras Jar d'Afoon, by chronometers, and distant 27 or 28 leagues to the West of Mette Island, is a high barren rock of white aspect, being covered with bird's dung. The coast between it and Mette Island is moderately elevated, with soundings near it, and the channel between Ais Island and the main, is about 3 leagues wide, free from danger, with depths of 14 and 15 fathoms. Captain Thomas, of the Cecilia, landed on this island in 1801, and found a spring of Mater on its southern part near the centre of the island ; the water oozes out of the crevices of the rock, forming a small pool at the foot of the precipice, and with very little trouble a ship in want of water might obtain a supply, as there is good anchor- age in sandy bottom opposite to the spot, and from thence round the east point of the island, so that a ship may anchor in safety, and avoid the strong westerly gales. There was also found a remarkable cove, or rather a natural dock, sufficiently large to admit a ship of .300 tons in security, by clinching the ends of a cable through the holes of the rock, and the remains of 2 clinches of cables were really affixed to the rock at this time. There appears to be no danger near the island, except at the western point, where a reef projects out about a cable's length, with a sunken rock, having over it only 12 feet water. Somaulee Vil- lage. SOMAULEE VILLAGE, is in lat. 11° £/ N., about 3 leagues to the south- westward of Burnt Island, and here the soundings do not extend far from the coast, which, from this place, begins to take a more southerly direction, about W.S.W., and is high craggy double land: and about 16 or 18 leagues westward from Burnt Island, the coast trends still more to the southward of West, the land continuing high, craggy and double, destitute of soundings excepting near the shore. About half-way between Burnt Island and Berbera, there is a projecting headland called Ras Kurrum. Berbera. BERBERA, in about lat. 10° 22' N., Ion. 45° 10' E.| is situated at the bottom of one of the most considerable bays on this coast, bounded on the N.E. side by a pro- jecting headland encircled by a reef This place, although little known to Euro- peans, is frequented by trading vessels from the coast of Arabia and the adjacent parts, and it is said to afford good shelter, particularly to small vessels, but the natives ought not to be trusted. § Caravans pass between this port and the interior of Abyssinia, to the westward and N.W. * About a century ago Lakorgee was the name applied to it by the Moors. In lat. 11° 12' N. about 7 leagues East of Burnt Island, the Phcenix and other ships, anchored about 3 miles off shore in 12 fathoms, where they lay a few days to repair the damage sustained by strong westerly gales, while beating up toward the Red Sea, in July, 1801. t Mr. G. Rose, Master of H.M.S. Pandora, made it in lat. 11° 22' N., Ion. 47° 21' E., in March, 1827. : Mr. Rose, of H.M.S. Pandora, made it in lat. 10° 26|' N., Ion. 45° 4^' E., in 1827. § The propriety of this caution, given in the India Directory many years previously, was unfortunately verified by the English brig Marianne, belonging to Mauritius, haxang been attacked by some of the Soomah tribe natives of Berbera, in 1825, where several of her crew were murdered, the vessel plundered and burnt. The ZEYLA. 297 From Berbera the coast extends westerly, ciirvincf to the northward towartls Kurrum Sheik, a headhuul, in about hit. 11°N., supposed to be fronted by slioals, having several bays or inlets between it and the former place, very little known. From Knrrum Slieik, tlie coast again turns more to the westward, for a considerable distance, then north-westward to the eastern point and islands of Zeyla Bay, being low in some parts close to the sea, with soundings near the shore ; but about half-way between Berbera and Zeyla there is a high mount near the coast, called Mount El mas. ZEYLA, in lat. 11° 17' N., about Ion. 43° 5' E., is a town of some importance, zcjinTown having a trade with Mocha and the neighbouring parts. 11. M. ship Sheerness, ■""* ^'^' warped within some of the shoals of Zeyla Bay, and anchored near the town in 1800; having an Arab on board from Mocha as linguist, a treaty was made with the Chief of Zeyla, to supply sheep for the troops then at Mocha in transports, going on the expedition to Egypt, sheep being plentiful and cheap at Zeyla. The coast around this bay is low, fronted by extensive shoals to the North and IV.W. about 3 leagues' distance from Zeyla ; the island hat, or Sheik Deeni, being at tliis distance in a northerly direction, with a shoal surrounding it. The Island Sadduckdeen lies about mid-way between it and Zeyla, and there are other similar isles to the westward of these near tlie shore. The anchorage for large ships at Zeyla is about 3 or 4 miles Anchoiagi-. N.N. Eastward of the town, to the eastward of the Island Sadduckdeen, in 4^ or 5 fathoms water, and the fair channel is to the eastward of all the islands. The sound- ings here extend a considerable distance out from the coast. A ship touching here for i-efreshments ought to be guarded against treachery, Naiites. for the inhabitants of the whole of this coast to Ras Jar d'Afoon, and round to the southward, have had little intercourse with European navigators during a long- period, and are thought to be less friendly at present than they were upwards of a century ago, when European ships frequently obtained some refreshments in coasting along. At that time, English ships bound to the Red Sea often Kept near the coast of Ancicm rouic Africa, till they got to the Straits of Bab-el-mandeb, and even in June and July, made '"'''* their passage by this route. The Arabia Merchant kept along the coast from Ras Jar d'Afoon, passed in sight of the islands in Zeyla Bay, and on the 16th of June, 170-3, steering betwixt N.W. and North, in sight of the Abyssinian coast, very low land, with smoke in .several places, got into 8 fathoms water, steered then North, with some hummocks seen a-head, which were on the main land, but mistaken for the islands at the entrance of Shoai Co»6i lo the Straits, when at 5 I'.u., the ship grounded about 4 or 5 miles oflsliore about lat. zejia.°" 11° 38' N., the soundings were very uneven, difl'ering 2 and 3 fathoms at a cast. She hove off at midnight, by an anchor laid out for that purpose, entered the Straits on the 20th, but having mostly N.W. winds and a strong ciu-rent setting out of the Straits, she did not reach Mocha till the 27th of June. The Greenwich, 0th April, 1724, was in lat. 22° S., carried steady winds between S.W. and S.E. through the Mozambique channel, passed to the West of Comoro at 8 leagues" distance on the 12th, crossed the equator with southerly winds 18th, rounded Ras Jar d'Afoon 28th, and arrived at Mocha on the 6th of May. The captain, the mate, and the other survivors, escaped to the trading dows which were at anchor near them, and were carried to Mocha, and from thence to Madras, where they arrived 2nd June, 1S25, in the American . brig Ann, Captain Millet. 2q 298 RED SEA. From the northern extremity of Zeyla Bay, the coast extends in a northerly and north-easterly direction to Ras Bir, having the Island Missah or Oboe close to it in lat. 12° N. ; Ras Bir is the easternmost promontory of the coast in this part, situated in abont lat. 12° 17' N., from whence it takes a northerly direction 5 or 6 leagues to the entrance of the Straits. This part of the coast is mostly steep, there being 25 and 27 fathoms water within half a mile of the shore in some places. Although formerly ships kept along the African coast nearly to the entrance of the Red Sea, it is now the practice to stretch off from it at Burnt Island for the coast of Arabia about Cape Aden, or Cape Arimora. RED SEA. Although the Red Sea forms no part of the ordinary route of our East India ships, its immediate connection with the Indian Ocean has always been considered a sufficient reason for including it in the Directory, and the further claim which it now has of constituting an important link in the chain of our mail communication with India, renders its insertion the more imperative. The notice of the Red Sea given in the former editions of this work was, from the scantiness of our information, necessarily brief and imperfect ; but full directions by Captains Moresby and Elwon, of the Indian Navy, to accompany their four-sheet Chart of this Sea, having recently been published by the East India Company, we are now enabled by the liberal permission of the Honourable Court of Directors to give these valuable Directions verbatim. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE RED SEA. BY R. MORESBY AND T. ELWON, Esqrs., COMMANDERS INDIAN NAVY. INTRODUCTION. The Directions for the Southern part of the Red Sea, from the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb to Jiddah, have been extracted from the memoir written by the late Commander Thomas Elwon, of the East India Company's Ship Benares, to accompany his portion of the survey. For the part north of Jiddah, the directions were written by Commander Robert Moresby, of the East India Company's ship Palimrus, by whom that part of the survey was executed. The names in the Arabic character on the Chart were written by Mr. Rassam, a gentleman who accompanied Colonel Chesney to England as interpreter. The longitudes have been determined by chronometric measure- ments from Bombay to MacuUa, MacuUa to Mocha, and from Mocha to Jiddah, made during the years 1829, 30, ,31, 32, 33, and 34, an abstract of which is given by Capt. Moresby — Bombay being considered in 72° 54' 36". The trigonometrical survey of India, based upon the longitude of Madras, which is considered to be 80° 17' 21",* placed the longitude of Bombay about three minutes more west, viz. 72° 51' 15". * Recent observations make it in 80° 14' 0", which, if confirmed, will of course affect the position of Bombay, as well as all those places depending upon it. RED SEA. 299 ABSTRACT OF CHRONOMETRIC MEASUREMENTS. FROM UOMUAY APOLLO TIER TO MACULLA. o I If Falinurus' Watches in 1830 -f ^** ~^ 29 L 2ri 2nd 23 54 30 r 1st 23 43 Ditto ditto in 1832 ' ""'' 23 50 23 45 30 23 44 45 1 3rd I 4th Mean diff. of longitude between Bombay and MacuUa 23° 46' 7". FROM BOMBAY APOLLO PIER TO MOCHA. r 1st 29 35 24 Benares' Watches in 1829 i 2nd 29 31 34 L 3rd 29 37 2 Ditto ditto in 1831 1st 29 38 9 1st 29 37 31 Ditto ditto in 1831 { 2nd 29 39 6 3rd 29 37 6 1st 29 33 23 2nd 29 41 16 Benares' Watches in 1834 ( ",*', ^9 39 15 [ 2nd 29 40 15 Mean diff. of longitude between Bombay and Mocha, 29° 37' 18". Falinurus' Watches in 1832 { f 1«' Falinurus' Watches in 1 832 < .," FROM MACULLA TO MOCHA. t 5 50 45 nd 5 51 30 O ' /' Mean diff. of longitude between MacuUa and Mocha 5 51 7 Ditto ditto Maculla and Bombay 23 46 7 Diff. of longitude between Bombay and Mocha 29 37 14 FROM MACULLA TO JIDDAU. j- 1st , Falinurus' Watches in 1829 { 2nd. L 3rd . r 1st 1 2nd 1st Ditto ditto in 1830 \ ^ij^^j Ditto ditto in 1832 \ ,^^^ 1st 2nd Diff. of longitude between Maculla and Jiddah 9° 52' 30". 9 52 9 53 15 9 51 46 9 53 46 9 51 16 9 53 45 9 51 45 FROM MOCHA TO JIDDAH. Igt 4 3 1 Benares' Watches in 1829 j ,, > ' ' 3 59 17 1st 4 3 39 2 Q 2 f Is Ditto ditto in 1831 j ^^^ ^ 2 33 300 RED SEA. Mean diff. of longitude between Mocha and Jiddah 4 2 7 Ditto ditto Mocha and Maculla 5 51 7 Diff. of longitude between Maculla and Jiddah 9 53 14 Mean diff. of longitude between Maculla and Jiddah 9 52 52 Ditto ditto Maculla and Bombay 23 46 7 33 38 59 Making Jiddah in 39° 15' 37" East longitude from Greenwich, allowing Bombay to be in 72° 54' 36". SAILING DIRECTIONS. Bab-el-man- iieh Straits, Perim Island. Perim Har- bour. Shoal Bank. Little Strait. Fisherman's Kock. -\nch0ra2e. Zee Hill and Shoal. Mocha. Supplies. FROM THE STRAITS OF BAB-EL-MANDEB TO MOCHA. THE STRAITS OF BAB-EL-MANDEB are 14i miles wide at the entrance, between Bab-el-mandeb Cape and the opposite point or volcanic peak, called Jibbel Seajarn. Near the former cape is Perim Island, which divides the two Straits at the entrance, the larger being about 1 1 miles wide. Perim is a bare rocky island, about 4^ miles long by 2 broad, rising 230 feet above the level of the sea, and without fresh water or inhabitants. On its S.W. side is a good harbour nearly half a mile broad, with an entrance half a mile wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms water, and a muddy bottom. The harbour forms in two branches, and that to the N.W. appears the best : there might be some difficulty in getting out of this place in southerly winds, and it might be found necessary to warp to the southernmost point of the island, to clear the west side of the entrance. A bank extends off the north part of Perim half a mile, with 4 and 5 fathoms on its outer edge ; it commences at the N.E. part of the island, gradually increasing to the north, and from thence slopes away to the island, and ceases on the N.W. part. The narrowest part of the Little Strait is nearly 14 miles wide, from the N.E. part of Perim Island to FISHERMAN ROCK, called also Pilot Island or Oyster Rock, on account of the abundance of excellent oysters found on it. From Fisherman Rock to the lower cape of Bab-el-mandeb to the North, is all shoal water in rocky patches, but there are 11 fathoms a little without this rock, gradually increasing to the centre of the channel, where there are 12, 16, and 17 fathoms hard sand, and 7 and 5 fathoms close to the island of Perim. There are also 6 and 7 fathoms water Ln a small bight to the south-eastward of the Fisherman Rock, at the ter- mination of the reef off that island. Ships may anchor under Bab-el-mandeb Cape in 6|- fathoms water, with the cape bearing S. by W., (true), and the extremes of Perim Island from S. 15° W. to S. 12° E. (true). From Perim Island 16 J miles N. 1J° E. (tme) is ZEE HILL, and 40 miles N. 14° W. (true) is the town of Mocha. Zee Hill is a small but remarkable peak of rocky land like a gunner's quoin, close to the beach ; there is no other like it, hereabouts, the land being low, with high hills in the interior ; this hill has shoal water running off it, with 5 fathoms on its outer edge, which continues to some distance southward. At 4 and 5 miles to the southward of Zee Hill, are 2 reefs with 3 fathoms between them and the shore ; the latter has 2 fathoms on it, and there are 5 or 6 fathoms close to their outer edge. The soundings along the coast are tolerably regular, and the lead is a sufficient guide in approaching it. MOCHA. TTie town of Mocha is enclosed by a wall with several forts and towers, occupying a space about half a mile square ; many of the buildings within it are in ruins or in a state of great decay. The houses gene- rally are large and built with stone : there are also several mosques with lofty minarets, and the whole being whitened with chunam has an imposing effect when seen from sea. It has several batteries towards the sea, namely, the centre or jetty battery, a little north of which, opposite the old factory, is a five-gun battery ; and beyond that is the north fort, on a sandy spit to the N.W. of the town. The south fort is in a ruinous state upon a sandy beach to the S.W. of the town. This place has an extensive bazaar, and is well supplied with beef, Abyssinian sheep, fruits, and vegetables ; very good bread may also be had, but there is no biscuit. The water is brackish and dear. RED SEA. 301 MOCHA ROADS lie to the westward of the town, and the depth is moderate, from 3 to G fathoms ; but Mocha Ro»d«. there are three shoal rocky patches which should be avoided in saihng in or out, and in anchoring. One of these lies one mile due West from the south port ; it is about half a cable length over, has 2 fathoms on its shoalest part, and from 3 to G fathoms close to it : the other is nearly 'J miles to the S.W., is about the same size, has 2^ fathoms on it, and 4 fathoms close to it ; between it and the shore are 7 and G fathoms. The third lies about 3 quarters of a mile W. by S. (true) from the north fort, is a cable length over, with 2} fathoms as the least water, and 3^ fathoms between it and the fort. Variation 6° 30' W. in 1831. DIRECTIONS FOR APPROACHING MOCHA FROM THE SOUTHWARD AND ANCHORING IN THE ROADS, SHIPS having entered the Straits of Bab-el-mandeb and passed Perim Island, should steer along the Arabian coast about N. by W. ^ \V. or N.N.W. {true), keeping without the dejjth of 12 fathoms, in order to avoid a shoal said to exist between Cape Bab-el-mandeb and Zee Hill, but which the surveyors could not discover, and also to keep clear of the sand and rocky banks which project from Mocha Roads. When the mosque bears E. 15° N, (true), a ship will be oft" the westernmost part of Mocha sands, and may haul to tlie N.E., keeping along the edge of the bank and anchor in G or 7 fathoms, with tlie north fort bearing true East, distant 2 or 2| miles ; or run in with this true bearing of the north fort, and anchor in 5 or 4 fathoms with the south ruined fort bearing S. 20^ E. (true). Vessels drawing only 13 feet may stand closer in and anchor in 3 fathoms. The north fort bearing East, carries a vessel pretty close to the north part of the northern rocky patch on the outer banks. DIRECTIONS FOR PASSING INSIDU THE BANKS. After passing Zee Hill (before described) keep along the coast in 7 or 6 fathoms, and when the north fort bears N. 35° E. (true), steer for it, or keep it a little more to the North to make sure of passing on the inside of the 2^ fathoms patch, before the south ruined fort and mosque are in one. This course will lead between the south ruined fort and a 2 fathoms patch West of it in 3 fatlioms : in this depth is the most convenient anchorage West of the jetty, between the northern rocky patch and shore reef. This inner anchorage is only half a mile wide. Of the high land within Mocha, there is a remarkable piece of table-land called Jibbel Nar or Barn, which when on with the mosque at Mocha, bears East ; to the southward of this and to the S.E. of Mocha, is another remarkable part of the highest land, appearing as if covered with ruins, and named South Peak. Perim Islaiul to Mocha. Anchorage in Mochu OuliT Road. Anchorage in Mocha Iiiiifr Road. High land within Mocha. COAST OF AFRICA, FROM JIBBEL SEAJARN TO RAS BILLOOL. THE S.W. point of the Straits of Bab-el-mandeb is distinguished by a peaked hill named Jibbel Seajarn, and to the eastward of it about 6 miles, are six small volcanic islands called THE BROTHERS. The north- Tlie Brothfri. ernmost of these, named the High Brother, has 29 fathoms close to it, and is about 9 miles South of Perim Island, the Large Strait lying between them. N. 3S° W. (true), distant 17 miles from the point of Jibbel Seajarn, is DOOMAIRAH ISLAND, h'ing at a Doomairah short distance from the Abyssinian Coast. Two small rocks, about 7 feet above water, lie N. 27° W. (true) Island, from Jibbel Seajarn, at about IJ miles from shore; 20 fathoms are near to them, and an irregular channel between them and the main : between these rocks and Doomairah Island the soundings along the coast appear to be regular. Doomairah Island is about half a mile square and of great height, running up to a remarkable sharp peak in the centre, called Jibbel Doomairah. The island is but a short distance from the main land, from which it is separated by a narrow channel of 5 fathoms ; there is a small rocky island nearly joining it to the eastward, and a rocky shoal of 2| fathoms about a mile from it to the northward. To the N.W. of the island, and beyond the shoal just mentioned, the coast forms a small bight which extends afterwards to the North and N.W. to a low sandy and swampy cape called RAS SINTUAR, in which space the soundings gradually decrease lias Similar, to the shore. At about 7 miles from Doomairah Island a reef commences near the shore and runs to N.N.W. and N.W., Ueef. terminating in a point formed by its western edge at the distance of 5 miles North of lias Sintuar. The point of this reef is called RAS MACAWA. It extends about 4^ miles East (true) of Has Sintuar, and has on its Ras .Macawa. western edge several islands forming the east side of the eastern channel into Assab Bay, fit only for very small craft. The soundings appear pretty regular in approaching the east side of this reef to 5 fathoms on its edge, and to the depth of 30 fathoms from 4 to 4J miles otf it. ASSAB BAY. — This bay is nearly 16 miles in length and upwards of 5 miles in width in the broadest part, but there are many small and low islands in the entrance forming small channels into it, from half a mile to one mile in breadth. It is bounded to the S.E. and East, by a bank of islands extending off the coast, which Ras Macawa is the extreme, and which has already been described, and by others which bound it the N.E. and North, the largest of which, called DARMAISAH, lies within the bay, and is nearly 20 miles circumference, very low, and partly covered with jungle. To the northward of Darmabah and westward of on in Dnnnahali of UlanJ. 302 RED SEA. R«er. Jnerat Dil- cose, and Jeserat Farl- Enlrancc to Assab Bav. A\'ood and water. ^unna[il)o.ir Island. lUs Billool. Blllool Bay. Description of the land in the Jibbcl Seajarn. Jibbel Doo- mairab. Jibbel Abboo- loo. Beach Hum- mock. Jibbel jMarsnb. High Saddle. First and Small Peaks. Haycock Hill. Ras Billool. Cap Hill. Booby Hill. Barn Hill and Chimney Peak. Ras Macawa, is a reef extending W. by N. h N. (true) about 7 miles, with an island on and near each end ; that to the East called JESERAT DILCOSE, and the one on the west end about 2 miles long, covered with wood, JESERAT FARTMAR. — This reef is about 3 miles wide, and forms with the north side of Jeserat Darmabah one of the principal channels into the bay ; its entrance is between Ras Macawa and Jeserat Dilcose, the depth bein"- from 10 to 6 fathoms. The channel to the S.E. of Darmabah is very narrow, and has at the most 2 fathoms. There is a small bank of 5 and 6 fathoms lying about 4 miles N. 18° E. (true) of Ras Macawa (a low woody island before spoken of), with 12 fathoms to the S.W. of it, gradually decreasing to 6 fathoms off the eastern part of the north shoal that extends from Jeserat Dilcose leading into Assab Bay between it and Ras Macawa. There is also a 2-fathom shoal one mile West (true) of Jeserat Fartmar : and another shoal is said to be to the North of that Island. The best entrance into Assab Bay is between the 2-fathom shoal off Jeserat Fartmar and the opposite projecting cape of the coast called Ras Loomar, distant about 2| miles. Steer from thence to the South, passing to the eastward of two small sandy islands surrounded by a reef, lying off a small bight in the coast to the southward of the cape, and leaving all the other islands to the eastward. The soundings inside the bay are 6 and 7 fathoms, mud. Wood may be procured on the islands, but water is scarce and brackish, and only to be found at three welb a little to the South of Ras Loomar. Off the north part of Ras Loomar is a high pyramidal rocky island, small in circumference, bounded on the S.E. and West by a bank extending three-quarters of a mile from it, with a narrow channel between it and the shore, with 5 and 6 fathoms water in it ; it is called SUNNAHBOAR, and is in lat. 13° 4' N. Fourteen miles N. 47° W. (true) from Sunnahboar Island is RAS BILLOOL. The soundings are regular along this part of the coast and the little reef off it, till within 5 miles of the cape, where it is more indented with some low sandy islands on a reef which extends about one mile otF shore, and terminates at the N.E. part of the cape. The land of Ras Billool is rather high, with an oblong hill jutting out to the North about 2 miles, which forms a square cape with a bay on its west side. There is little or no reef off the north side of the cape or on its western side. I3ILL00L BAY is upwards of 7 miles broad East and West, and 3 miles deep. Two miles S.W. of the inner part of the cape is a small island surrounded by a shoal on the S.E. and West, having between it and the coast 5 fathoms. There is also a bank to the W.N.W. of the cape, distant from it 3^ miles. It is of circular form, 2 miles broad, and has mostly 2 fathoms on it : there is apparently a channel between it and the main about 2 miles broad, as the soundings inside the bank were 10 and 11 fathoms mud, and 12 on its east side. In the outer part of the bay there are 16 and 14 fathoms very gradually decreasing inward. This bay affords excellent protection from southerly winds, but is quite open and exposed to those from the North. Neither village nor inhabitant was seen in the neighbourhood ; but the pilot said that there is a small village called Billool, about 2 miles in shore on the eastern side of the bay, and that there is a trade from this place to Mocha. The appearance of the land from the Straits to this place is high, rugged, and mountainous towards the interior, quite barren, and decreasing in several ranges towards the coast, where there are several remarkable and detached hills of great elevation ; those that were visited were rocky, and had a covering of coarse, granular, black and lightish brown earth, intermixed with iron-stone, which on Ras Billool had considerable effect upon the needle of the compass. JIBBEL SEAJARN, as before mentioned, is a peaked hill of the haycock shape, situated upon a point of land forming the western side of the large Strait of Bab-el-mandeb, at the entrance of the Red Sea. JIBBEL HADDALLY is a remarkable lump on the nearest range of hills, 15 miles to the westward of Jibbel Seajarn. JIBBEL DOOMAIRAH, already described, is on the island of that name, off Ras Doomairah; it is called by Captain Court, the Premenas. JIBBEL ABBOOLOO is a small piece of table-land in the near range of hills, about 14 miles W.S.W. of Doomairah Island. BEACH HUMMOCK is the larger of two conical hills to the south-west of Assab Bay ; JIBBEL MARSUB, or SMALL SADDLE, so called from its resemblance, is 3 miles to the south- westward of Ras Loomar, the north point of entrance to Assab Bay. HIGH SADDLE is 9 or 10 miles in a direction nearly West of the Small Saddle, and resembles it in some views, but is much more towering, being part of a higher range. FIRST and SMALL PEAKS are two remarkable hills or pyramids between the Saddles ; and HAYCOCK HILL is of a similar shape, but situated 3 miles to the W.S.W. of the high small island of Sunnahboar, near the coast, and already mentioned. RAS BILLOOL is an oblong hill, rather high, and jutting out to the North. CAP HILL is a small round hiU in the south part of Billool Bay ; and 3 miles W.S.W. of it is another hill, resembUng Paps, and called BOOBY HILL. 26 miles West of Ras Billool there are two remarkable elevations upon a range and near each other, which we have called BARN HILL and CHIMNEY PEAK, from their resemblance thereto. Further to the N.W. the land is high and mountainous, but was only seen occasionally, in consequence of hazy weather. RED SEA. 303 THE ISLANDS AND ROCKS BETWEEN RAS BILLOOL AND JIBBEL ZOOGUR, INCLUDING THE MAH-HEB-BAKAH GROUP AND HARNISH ISLANDS. THE first of these is a small rocky island of considerable heiplit, called SAYEIi, lying G miles N. by E. (true) from Ras Billool ; about 5 miles E.N.E. (true) of Saycl is a similar white rocky island, called IIAHHEE. About N. I W. (true), 5 miles from Sayel, is a small but high rocky island, and at 3 miles N.E. by N. from it is a similar one; these are the south-westernmost of a group of five, called the MAH-I1E15-I5AKAH ISLANDS. The three northernmost of these islands (the centre one of wliich resembles a haycock) are higher than the other two, and are near each other, with deep water between them. About N.N.E. (true) 7 miles from the north-eastern- most of the Mah-heb-bakah Islands, lies the S.W. end of GREAT HARNISH ISLAND, in lat. 13° 39' N. and Ion. 42° 44' E. From thence it extends about 10 miles N.E. ^ N. and is three miles in breadth at the broadest part ; the highest part is near the centre, which forms in some views a remarkable bluff. There is a good deal of grass in the valleys, and plenty of antelopes. The west side of this island is steep, having no bottom at 100 fathoms close to, in some places ; but along the eastern side the soundings are tolerably regular, affording anchorage from northerly winds. One of these anchorages has a depth of 11 or 12 fathoms near the N.E. end of the island, witii a small island called the Haycock, bearing North ; here the bottom is sand and rock : but the best is near the S.W. end of the island, in IG fathoms sand, with Double Peak Island to the East. ISLANDS AND ROCKS ADJACENT TO GREAT HARNISH ISLANDS. SULE HARNISH ISLANDS, three in number, connected by a reef, are about 2^ miles from the S.E. part of Great Harnish, with a good channel between, there being 20 fathoms close to these islands, the same on the edge of the Great Harnish sandy bay anchorage, and 23 in mid-channel, deepening to 30 south of the S.E. part of Great Harnish. 'I'hey are of considerable height : the northern one is very steep, with two small peaks close together, from whence we called it Double Peak Island ; the southernmost is nearly 2 miles long and 1 broad, and is high and rugged, and hence its name. To the eastward of these islands, from 1 to 2 miles, is ROUND ISLAND, and ROCK ISLAND, with channels of 22 and 25 fathoms between : the former is rather high and rocky ; the latter consists of low black rugged rocks, and 2| miles to the eastward of it is a rock above water. ROUND and QUOIN ISLANDS, so named from their shape, are Ij to 2 miles from the centre of the eastern side of Great Harnisb, with a channel of 26 fathoms along Great Harnish, but there were no soundings taken between them. The remains of a crater were found on Round Island : two miles S.W. of it, and half a mile from Harnish, are some black rocks above water, with 9 fathoms rocks near them on the East, 12 and 17 half a mile off, and 27 between them and Round Island. HAYCOCK is off the north part of Harnish, separated from it by a narrow channel of 9 and 10 fathoms ; it resembles a haycock from the South, but on passing close to the eastward of it the inside appears to be hollowed out like a saucer. ADDAR EYLE, or Sugar-loaf, are two small pyramidal rocks of some height, one mile east of the Haycock, with a channel of 35 fathoms between; they are of the same colour as the latter island : and MOOSHEDGERAH is a low small island 3 miles East from the north part of Great Harnish. Besides these, there is a rock above water, at 2 miles, and another at 4J miles off the south part of Harnish, and a cluster of rocks awash and a httle above water G miles to the vt-estward of the south point of Harnish, or 6 miles N.N.W. of the Haycock Island, forming the N.E. part of the Mah-heb-bakah Islands, with good channels between. LITTLE HARNISH ISLAND is about 4 miles North of Great Harnish, with a good channel of 35 to 40 fathoms between them. It is of an oblong shape, of great height, with a remarkable piece of land on the summit of the east end, resembling a thumb or a small peak in the act of falling off the top of tiic land, when observed from Great Harnish Island, and hence we have named it TUMBLE-DOWN PE.VK. This island is upwards of 7 miles in circumference, very rugged, with grass in some parts, and a few antelopes. On the N.E. and East, about half a mile from it, are some rocky islands, a part of them connected to the north part of Little Harnish by sunken rocks, but there is a narrow channel of 15 or IG fathoms between them on this side, and on the other side is deep water. SayrI Island. Ilarbuc Island. i"M;ili-l>ib. bakali IsUndi. Grcsi IIarni>li I&land. Anclioragi-5. Iljvcock I^Li'nd. Double Peat Ulaiid. .'iulc llarniili Islands. Round anr) Rock Islands. Round and (^uoui Islands, Haycock Island Chan- nel. Addar £ylr. Mooshedgcrali. Rocks above water. Little Harnisli Island. Tumble-down Peak. JIBBEL ZOOGUR. — About 2 miles to the northward of Little Harnish is the south end of Jibbel Zoogur, with Jibbel Zoognr. a good channel of 36 and 37 fathoms, mud, between them. Zoogur is by far the highest island in this sea, and may perhaps be considered a small mountain ; it is 28 miles in circumference, and nearly 9 miles long from South to North, composed of a series of lofty hills of barren aspect, which in some views appear as sharp peaks, but on running along by the east side of the island they assumed the appearance of the inner side of a funnel. The highest peak in the island is about 3 miles to the north of an anchorage in the western bay, inside of Sandy Peak Highest IVak. Island, hereafter described. The only apparent good anchorage about tliis island is in the two small sandy bights on the S.W. part of it, .Anchorages. 304 RED SEA. Sandy Peak Island, High Island. Anchorages. the easternmost of which is the largest, though perhaps the least commodious, as the smaller one appears to be that used by the native boats, where there are a few stragghng huts and some trees. These anchorages are in the bottom of a small bay, in breadth two miles and depth one, formed by Sandy Peak Island on the West, which is separated from a point of Zoogur, between which is a channel of 70 yards width, with 7 fathoms from side to side. Across the entrance of the bay the soundings are 30 to 36 fathoms, with an irregular decrease, there being 9 fathoms at a short distance from the shore reef in the western bight, and 9, 13, and 15 fathoms in the eastern. From the situation of this bay, it affords good protection from a northern sea. As there is no protection on the Arabian coast opposite Zoogur, it may be as well to say something more of its north side, where the Palinurus anchored against strong South winds, in March, 1831. On the N.E. part of the island is a sandy spit, and 1 mile north of it is a small island, called High Island : the soundings between them is 17 fathoms sand, near the spit, increasing to 24 near the North Island. In this space the ship anchored in 22 fathoms mud ; but to avoid being too near the small island, it would be better to anchor more to the westward, where there are 15 fathoms near the shore reef, and 24 and 30 at half a mile from it. The most eligible place, in cases of emergency, appears to be on the N.W. part of Zoogur, where there are 7 to 10 fathoms close in, and 23 fathoms at half a mile off. On the north side of the island the wind blew in severe gusts off the high land, but the water was quite smooth. Good water may be obtained about 1 1 miles to the northward of the bay formed by Sandy Peak Island (where they anchored in 9 fathoms sand) by digging a hole in the sand, which is black ; but it is difficult to get it off in casks over the rugged reef, with which the shore is lined. Wood may also be had on the north and south parts ■ of the island, and grass in some of the valleys, where antelopes were found. There are no people constantly residing on this island, but it is resorted to by fishing-boats from Maculla, for a cargo of the Red Sea productions, amongst which are sharks' fins, salted fish, and turtle. Tongue Island. TONGUE ISLAND, so called from its shape, is more than 2 miles from the S.W. end of Zoogur, with a small island and some sunken rocks near its east side, and 34 fathoms between them in a small bight. These rocks are a part of the reef which extends in patches from the N.E. end of the island to the small island close to it on the S.E. There is a small island about a mile W. by N. from Sandy Peak Island. ABOO EYLE ISLANDS are off the N.E. part of Zoogur, and are of considerable height. High Island is the westernmost of them, and is rather flat at top ; the other three are close together. The westernmost we have called Quoin Island, and the easternmost Pile or Lump Island. The N.E. point of Zoogur is in lat. 14° 5' N. and Ion. 42= 481' E. Good fresh water. Wood. Aboo Eylc Islands. Quoin and Pile Islands. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE GROUP OF ISLANDS AND ROCKS EXTENDING BETWEEN RAS BILLOOL AND JIBBEL ZOOGUR. THE islands comprising this group are mostly volcanic hills of a dark and barren aspect, with rocky eminences in fanciful or romantic shapes, covered with a loose granular black, brown, or sandy coloured earth and ashes, or strewed with pieces of sharp rock. The principal, as before stated, are the Zoogur and Harnish Islands, which are surrounded by many small ones of various heights, to which appropriate names have been given, according to their different shapes. In some of the largest the remains of craters are very evident, having all the appearance of being originally high peaked islands, reduced to the present saucer shape by internal explosions ; and the neighbouring smaller islands and rocks to the E.S.E., South, and S.W. of Harnish, being of similar formation, leads to a belief that they have been formed by the same means. No sunken patches were discovered between any of this group from Has Billool to Zoogur, all the dangers being above water, so that vessels running either up or down this sea can pass through any of these channels during the day with safety ; but it may be advisable not to attempt to pass through the smallest ones beneath the north-easternmost of the Mah- heb-bakah Islands, or through the 9 fathoms channel between the north part of Harnish and Haycock Islands off it, for fear of baffling winds. Mersa Fed- jerah. iVIousa. Good water. Cocha and Sh'haree. Good water. Goobut-el- Hamar. THE COA.ST OF YEMEN FROM MOCHA TO LOHEIA WITH THE ISLANDS FORMING THE INNER CHANNEL AND OTHERS, ACROSS THE OUTER REEF TO THAT PLACE, WITH THE ZEBAYER ISLANDS AND JIBBEL TEER. ABOUT N. i E., 16 miles from Mocha, is MERSA FEDJERAH, fit only for boats in less than 4 fathoms, to the south of which the coast projects a little, and in some degree breaks off the swell in southerly winds. Between Mocha and this place the soundings are regular. Seven miles further north is the village of MOUSA, where good water may be obtained ; it may be known by a small white mosque on its point. To the north of Mousa 4| miles is the village of COCHA. Sh'haree is also a small village where good water may be procured : it is about 9 miles N.N.W. from Mousa, and may be known by a small white mosque on a cape about H mile to the N.W. of it, called Goobut-el-Hamar. The soundings being regular along the coast from Mersa Fedjerah, a vessel in want of water may anchor in any convenient depth off the said places to obtain it. About RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. 30: 11 J miles N.W. (true) from Sh'haree and 41 miles N. by W. (true) from Mocha, is RAS MILTANAH, and »o the North of it, to the distance of 2 miles, three small rocky jiatclies on whicli the sea breaks. This cape is in lat. 14° 0' N., the east side of Jibbel Zoogur being IG miles West of it, the soundings deepening gradually from the coast, and the deepest water between is 39 fathoms. Three small pyramidal hills, called the THREE SISTERS, or JIBBEL MOUSA, are near the coast between Mersa Fedjerah and Mousa. Seven miles North of Ras Miltanah is RAS ZEBEED, oft" which is a small shoal on which the sea breaks, and about 1 mile to the N.E. of it is an excellent sjjring of fresh water, emptying itself into the sea. The rushes about its mouth are easily distinguishable from the anchorage off it in 4§ fathoms, and there are also some trees and bushes in its neighbourhood by which it may be known. Jibbel Zoogur Peak bears from this anchorage S. 74° W. (true) ; and it is to be observed that this being an open coast, if there is any surf on the beach it will be difficult, and even dangerous, to attemjit gettin" water here at such times. N. 5° W. (true), distant 7J miles fi-om Ras Zebeed, is KEDF OCRAISH BLUFF f N.N.W. I W. (tnie). 23 miles from this bluff, and N. 17° W. (true), distant 37 miles from Ras Miltanah, is a long projecting point of land called RAS MEJARMLA. This is the N.W. point of an inlet of the sea running in to S.S.E. about 10 miles, called CORE GOULA- FUGGER, near the extremity of which is a small sand-hill, in form of a haycock, ciUled KEDF MUCKYESH, seen in clear weather when approaching Ras Mojarmla from the southward. At the distance of 3 J and 7 miles S. by E. and S. by E. | E. (true) from Ras Mejarmla, are two shoal patches of 1 and 2 fathoms, about 1 and 1^ miles from the coast, with 4 fathoms near them; and at 7h miles S.W. by S. (true) is a patch of.") fathoms, with 28 fathoms close outside and 1 5 within it. Two miles West of the cape is a shoal of 2 to 4 fathoms about 3 miles in length N. by E. and S. by W., and a mile broad, with 12 fathoms close to its outside ; between it and the cape are 9 to 4 fathoms. The north part of the cape or Ras Mejarmla is about 3 miles wide, and 2 miles East of it, on the east side of Core Goulafugger, at a place called SHOORAME, about a mile or more inland, over a beach of soft sand, are some wells of good water. To the North of the cape is anchorage against southerly winds in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms, and within, to the S.E. of the cape, against all winds, in about 3 fathoms ; but there may be some difficulty in getting out against those from the north-westward. About N. J W., distant 14J miles from Ras Mejarmla, is RAS JEDDERE, the coast between them forming a bight in which the soundings are tolerably regular, with the exception of two patches of 2 fathoms each at 4 and 6 miles North of the former, and the reefs off Hodeidah, which extend about 2 miles to the West of it. Uos Millnnah. Tlirec Sistere, or Jibhrl IMuusa. Fresh water. Keiir.Ocraish Blufl-. K»i Mejarmla. CoreGuiilBfuu- per. Keilf Muck- yesli. Shoorame. goud water. Ila* Jedilere. HODEIDAH is about Hi miles N. by E. (true) of Ras Mejarmla, and about 5 miles south-eastward of Ras Hodeidah. Jeddere. It is a large fortified town with lofty buildings, but not so extensive as Mocha. It is one of the coffee ports, and has a considerable bazaar, fro'm whence supplies may be j)rocured. There is said to be plenty Supplies, of good water, which the natives will bring off in their boats. Vessels may anchor in 4 fathoms, just to the Anchorage, westward of some small patches of reefs in the roads, for which a good look-out is necessary, as the water does not always break upon them. Between 2 and 3 miles to the southward of the town a shoal siiit runs off more than a mile, with 1 fathom on its extremity. Hcdeidah is in lat. 14° 47' N., and Ion. 42° 59' E. About 2 miles West of Ras Jeddere is a patch of 2 fathoms, with 3 fathoms near to it to the N.W., and mid- way between it and the cape is a rock. Four miles further North is Ras Keteeb, the extremity of a pomt or Ras Keieol.. tongue of land, forming a bay or inlet to the south-east. East of this cape about 2 miles is a low island on a reef, extending 1^ miles from shore ; and nearly 6 miles North of the cape is another projecting cape, without a name, forming between them a bay in which the depths are irregular. N.W. by N., distant 18 mdes from Ras Jeddere, is RAS EL BAYATH, and S.E. from it 5 miles is RAS ESSAH. To the eastward of the latter Ras el n.iy.,ih. is a bay of the same name, where a ship may anchor in 8 to 5 fathoms, sheltered from northerly winds, but she Ras Essah. must quit it on the ai)pearance of the wind coming from the southward or westward. From Ras el Bayath round Ras Essah, the shore is bordered by a reef, steep-to ; and nearly 4 miles S. by W. from the former is a low island or sand-bank called RASHER, surrounded with a reef, and with 14 fathoms between it and the main. Uashcr. From Ras el Bayath the coast turns N.E. § N. (true) about 9 miles to a sharp point of land named RAS Ras Arafar. ARAFAR, forming between them a bay called Camaran, the north point of which, Jibbel Maharsene, is a piece jibbel-Mahar- of high land, having below it a mosque. Twenty miles North of Ras Arafar stands the town of LOHL A ; sene. the coast forms a bay to the S.E. of the former, and from thence an irregular shore up to the latter, fronted aU the way with a reef, which 5 miles south of Loheia extends 2J miles from shore. CAMARAN ISLAND.— The S.E. point of this island lies nearly H miles N.W. of Ras el Bayath; it Camaran extends from thence in a N. by E. direction above 11 miles, and is from 2 to 4 miles broad. The island is W»>>d- composed of hard rock intermixed with sand, and in some parts earth capable of cultivation ; there are some spots on which date trees flourish. The island is generally low, but towards the South there are some elevated parts forming small hills, and on the North it is swamp and jungle. Including Camaran, there are seven small vQlages upon this island, mostly consisting of a few miserable huts belonging to fishermen employed m its neighbourhood on the pearl banks, turtle islands, &c. Excepting a small portion of its east side, the is and is bordered by a reef, which, off its S E. point, extends little more than a mile towards Ras el Bayath. whereby the entrance to Camaran Bay is reduced to a breadth of 700 yards. There are 4 to G fathoms on the edge of the island reef, and ia the channel 8 to 11 fathoms mud, the greatest depth being towards the cape. In 2 n Inner Channel to Loheia. 306 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. A nchorage of? Camaran Town and in Cainu- ran Bay. Anchorapo off .Muckrani. Muckrain Reef. Sandy Island. Dangerous Shoal. Bank of Rocks and Sand. Good Channel. ■El Bother Island. Ockbane Island. Good Channel. approachin'^ this entrance from the southward, pass inside the little island Rasher, keeping in about 15 fathoms alono' by the coast reef ; keep a look-out for the sandy point of Bayath, and haul round it as requisite for the entrance. There is good anchorage in the small bay of Camaran, near the S.E. part of the island, in 7 fathoms mud, with the fort bearing S. 40° W. (true), distant about 200 fathoms, and the town S. 70° W. (true) ; but large vessels had better anchor outside in the e.xtensive and remarkable fine bay formed by the island and adjacent coast before mentioned, where are regular soundings and moderate depths : here wood and water may be procured on the island. There is anchorage off the west side of the island in 4 fathoms, opposite Muckram village, known by a few date trees and a small white mosque to the south of it. The reef extends a mile off this part, with a small sandy island on it one mile N.W. of the village. Three miles N.W. of Muckram is a small sandy island, with a reef half a mile off its west side, and a httle way only off the east end, and has a channel on each side of it. Four miles to the West of Muckram is a dangerous shoal, lying in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, in length 4 miles, with 2 and 2^ fathoms near its centre, and 4, 5, and 6 on each end, rocks and sand. There are .30 and 35 fathoms close to the south end of this shoal, 32 at its north end, and 35 fathoms just within it. Without the above-mentioned shoal, at the distance of 9 miles to the West of Muckram village, is a bank of rocks and sand, with 4 fathoms on its shoalest part ; it is about 3 miles long. North and South, and has 30 fathoms near it on all sides. The discoloured water on these shoals may generally be seen. There is a good channel between Camaran Island and the inner shoal to the westward of it, where the breadth is about 3 miles, and between Camaran reef and the small island 3 miles to the N.W. of Muckram, 1| miles wide. The depths running up from the southward are G and 10 fathoms near the island reef and 19 in mid-channel ; from thence a decrease towards the south end of the inner shoal; but proceeding to sea from the anchorage off Muckram, the depths increase gradually to the north end of the shoal, where there are 35 fathoms. In the channel between Muckram and the island to the N.W. of it, the depths are irregular, 12 and 7 fathoms in mid-channel, and 5 on either side of it ; and afterwards 16 and 17 fathoms between Camaran and El Bother, next to be described. From the inner to the outer shoal, passing both from its north and south points, there is a gut of deep water, there being 35 and 40 fathoms near the western side of the inner shoal, and 22 on the eastern side of the outer one, between their south points ; and between their north points, 39 fathoms near the inner and 28 near the outer. Should a vessel get between these, a course about N. by W. (true) for the bluff on the south part of Ockbane Island will carry her through. EL BOTHER, about 3 miles to the north-westward of Camaran, is a low sandy island, about 3 miles in length. East and West, surrounded by a reef, which extends off the south side 1^ miles, with 5 or 6 fathoms on its edge, rocks and sand. There is a good channel on either side of this island ; that between it and Camaran is 2 and 3 miles wide, with from 10 to 23 fathoms, being bounded on the south by Camaran and the small island to the N.W. of Muckram, and on the north by the reef off the south side of El Bother. Three mUes N.W. of El Bother is a patch of 7 fathoms, and IJ miles N.E. of its east end is a patch of 1 fathom. About 4 miles west of El Bother is the south end of OCKBANE ISLAND, which extends thence in a N.W. direction about 4^ miles. It is low and sandy in the centre, with a hill on its N.W. end, and a bluff on the South. There are deep soundings on the East and South sides, and a reef runs along the West side about half a mile off the island, and continues round the North end, where it extends 2^ miles off, and is steep-to, having 23 fathoms near to its West edge and 8 and 15 fathoms on the edge of the reef at the North end, decreasing towards the island. There is a good channel to the South of Ockbane and El Bother into Camaran, and there is also a channel between it and El Bother to Loheia. Any of these channels may be used by keeping a look-out for the patches, which may be seen, excepting in hazy thick weather. Cadamons Seggeer and Kebeer Islands. CADAMON SEGGEER and CADAMON KEBEER are two low sandy islands to the E.N.E. (true) of Ockbane and North of El Bother. A reef extends from the latter nearly 1^ miles W.S.W., with 5 fathoms on its end, and there is also a 3 fathoms patch about 2 miles West of the island. Three miles N.W. (true) of Cadamon Seggeer lies another shoal, about 2^ mUes in length, in a N.N.W. direction, having 3 fathoms rocks and sand on it, and 24 fathoms near both sides. Humreek Island. Shab-el- Bunjam. Bo warred, Gooban, and Goosee Islands. HUMREEK ISLAND, 5 miles to the S.W. of Loheia, is about 2 miles East and West, and 1^ miles wide. This island is low and sandy, with a fishing village on it, but no water, that article being supplied from Loheia. In the centre of the N.E. and West sides are two small white mosques, one of which is used as a mark for the anchorage at Loheia. Between the easternmost point of the island and the extensive reef off the coast the inner channel is not three-quarters of a mile broad. Four and five miles S. by E. (true) of Humreek Island are two small shoals, called SHAB EL BUNJAM ; and 9 miles south-easterly of it is another small shoal. They lie from 2 to 3 miles off the coast, and may be seen by a good look-out and passed on either side, though it would be as well to pass to the westward of them in going from Camaran Bay through the inner channel to Loheia, or the contrary. North a little westerly 3| miles from Humbreek, and about 7 miles West of Loheia, is the island BOWAR- RED, and to the westward of it four others, forming the North side of a channel from Loheia to seaward, and the contrary. These islands are GOOBAN, GOOSEE, ENTOOKFASH, and KOTAMA. Bowarred, RED SKA. — EAST SIDE — ISLANDS. 307 Gooban, and Goosee, are low and small, with channels between thera : that between Gooban and Goosee is verj- narrow, and has from 3 to 4 fathoms : between Howarred and Gooban is a channel of G and 7 fatlioms. KN- TOOKFASH lies in an east direction, G miles in length, and is a low sandy plain, with a hill upon its western end, from which a reef extends 3 miles to N.N.W. (true) with 8 fathoms on its extremity. Antelopes are plentiful, but there is no fresh water on the island ; there are two or three huts, occu|)ied by fishermen, who are employed procuring turtle. Between this island and the small islands Gooban and Goosee, off its eastern end, there is good anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms. The reef on the south side of Entookfash extends more than a mile off shore, and there is also a bank, with from 2 to 1 12 fathoms on it. and black rocks above water, from 2 to 3 miles South of the hill, and a channel between them and the island reef, and from it an outlet to the North of Kotama and reef. KOTAMA ISLAND, in lat. 15° 41' N., Ion. 42° 21' E., is about 21 miles to the West of Loheia, 4 to the W.S.W. (true) of Entookfash, and 8 miles N.N.W. of Ockbane. It is about 3 miles in length North and South, and Ig miles (true) in breadth ; the land upon it is rather high, and there is a hut or two, but no water nor inhabitant. There is also a small square building of coral, containing a grave. This island has a deep water channel on its eastern side, and the other sides are bordered by a bank of sand and coral of irregular soundings, from 14 to 4 and 2 fathoms near the shore on the West side, from whence it extends 2J miles, and thence to the southward upwards of 5 miles, also with irregular soundings from 8 to 26 fathoms. This bank forms the South extremity of the outermost extensive bank on the Arabian side of the sea. Entookrnsh KlunJ. Good Anchor- age. Kotama Kland. Deep-water cliatinel. LOHEIA town is built of coral, and has some large houses ; it is surrounded by a wall with several forts Loheia and towers adjacent. The principal is a fort on a hill which commands the town and neighbourhood, but it is in a ruined state. The anchorage off this place is in a gut in the coast reef, which runs u|) to the town in a north-easterly direction, where small boats anchor. The entrance is N. 74°. E. (true) of the white house or mosque on Humreek Island, or the first high tower a little to the North of Loheia fort on with the northernmost of two small mounds bearing in one N. 32°E. (true). A ship cannot go far inside the entrance, and would then be nearly 3 miles from the town ; it has also some dangerous patches, and therefore cannot be recommended for general use. There is an excellent bazaar in the town, generally well supplied with cattle and poultry, excepting during the Ramadan, when the market is not so well attended ; flour, onions, and sweet potatoes, may be had here, but neither rice nor biscuit. The water is good, but distant from the town, from whence it is brought in jars on camels. Loheia is in latitude 15° 42' N., and longitude 42° 44' E. The distant land within Loheia is high and mountainous, and seldom seen. Behind the town are a few hills, but the highest, upon which the fort stands, is not more than 150 feet above the level of the sea. Sugar Loaf is the northernmost of two small peaks to the eastward of Loheia. Jibbel Kushah is an oblong piece of land to the S.E. of Loheia, appearing somewhat like a barn. There is a narrow rocky reef about ly miles to the West of Loheia. about 2 miles in length North and South, and two rocky patches about a mile to the westward of it, with 3J and 4 fathoms near them. Sugar. Loaf ond Jibbel Kushah. DIRECTIONS FOR PROCEEDING FROM THE SOUTHWARD THROUGH THE CHANNEL CLOSE TO THE WEST SIDE OF CAMARAN, TOWARDS LOHEIA. Having passed Rasher in 24 fathoms, or about 3 miles to the westward of it, steer about North, keeping about one mile from Camaran ; and after passing that part of the island reef one mile westward of Muckram village (the outer part of which bears nearly South of the small island 3 miles to the N.W. (true) of it), steer to the north-eastward between that island and Camaran reef, where will be found 12 and 7 fathoms in mid-channel. Having passed the said small sandy island, the depths will increase to 16 and 17 fathoms in mid-channel between El Bother and Camaran Island ; then, if going round the North end of Camaran, go no nearer than 14 fathoms, as 10 fathoms are near the reef which extends from it about a mile ; but if going to Loheia, beware of a one fathom patch about 1| miles to the northward of the east end of El Bother, and steer direct for the nsirrow channel at the east end of Humreek Island. ZEBAYER ISLANDS. JIBBEL ZEBAYER, the easternmost island, and largest of the group, is 8 miles in circumference and Jibbel- Zebajer. nearly 3 miles in length North and South ; it is about 600 feet high, and has three remarkable hills, one form- ing a cone on its South, and another forming a barn on its North, having between them the third or centre hill, in latitude 15° 3^' N., and longitude 42° 18' E. From this island N. by E. i E. (true), distant 3 miles, are some low rocks awash, with breakers near them to the West, and deep water to the South and East. The second island, or Centre Peak, is about a mile in length, lying to the S.W., (true) of Jibbel Zebayer, having between them a channel half a mile wide, with 19 fathoms black sand in the centre. Centre Peak liiland. SABA or the third island, lies N.W. by W. (true) of Jibbel Zebayer, having a channel between half a mile Sabs Island. 2 K 2 308 RED SEA. — EASr SIDE. Connected Island. Haycock Island. Saddle Island, Table Peak, and Rugged Island. Quoin Rock. Jibbel Teer. the other is not so high, {true) of Saba, distant 1^ miles, are breakers, with a cheinnel between h d with regular soundings of 7 to 12 fathoms black sand, and no bottom at 26 fathoms at a short distance to th s'w Tins island is about half a mile over, and nearly round, consisting of a sandy plain, with two remarkable hills on it: the largest, when approaching it from the eastward, appears like a barn but both have craters. To the N.N,'" them and the island. CONNECTED ISLAND is a most extraordinary high rugged-topped rock, to the S.W. (true) of Saba Island nhniit half a mile and connected with it by a reef, and is therefore considered as one island in numbering them. The fourth, or SADDLE ISLAND, the fifth, or TABLE PEAK, the sixth, or RUGGED ISLAND, and the seventh, or HAYCOCK ISLAND, are each above half a mile in length and of moderate height. Saddle Island Table Peak, and Rugged Island, are all on one rocky bank, which extends from them one mile to S.E. (true) ' vphere there is a rock above water called Low Island ; and one mile to the eastward of Low Island are the breakers before spoken of, 1 j miles to the N.N.W. {true) of Saba. There is deep water between these breakers and Low Island, and also between them and the low rocks awash N.E. by N. {true) 3 miles from Jibbel Zebayer. Between Saddle Island and Table Peak there are 3 and 4 fathoms across the bank, and between Table Peak and Ruo-o-ed Island there are 6, 9, and 17 fathoms, rocks and sand. N. W. by W. one mile from Saddle Island is a small rock, with deep water between it and Table Peak ; and a low black island bears S.S.W. {true) half a mile, with 5 fathoms between it and Saddle Island. There are also 5 fathoms between Saddle Island and the rock on the extremity of the bank to the S. E. of it. QUOIN ROCK forms the northern extremity of Zebayer group ; it is a conical rock or small island, bearing from Jibbel Zebayer N. 40° W. {true) distant 10 miles. Between it and Haycock Island no ground was found at 35 fathoms, and there is deep water close to the rock. JIBBEL TEER lies W. J N. {true) distant 28 miles from Ockbane, and N.W. | N. {true) 34 miles from Jibbel Zebayer, in latitude 15° 32' 30" N., and longitude 41° 55' 30" E. This island is nearly of a circular shape, being about li miles from North to South, and 1| miles broad, with 50 and 60 fathoms close to it. Its perpendicular hein-ht is 900 feet above the level of the sea f from the base it has a gradual ascent for half a mile, where a range of hills, about 100 yards high, commence and terminate in a steep rocky bluff on the south end of the island. From the top of this range is another gradual ascent to the peaks, which are also about 100 yards in height. The larn-est peak is of a brown colour, and the other forms a beautiful cone when seen from the South and West. They appear to be of volcanic origin, and smoke at the present time issues from some of the craters and bases of the peaks. There is a small sandy patch on the western side where landing may be eflfected, but there is no anchorage. In crossing from the reef off the north end of Ockbane for this island, 8 fathoms were found on the tail of Kotama reef; 16 miles from Ockbane, 38 fathoms ; and shortly after no bottom at 150 fathoms. There are three names for this island ; the Indians call it Jibbel Teer, or hill of birds ; the El Shoo- rees of Sohar near Muscat, Jibbel Dokhan, or hill of smoke ; and the Arabs and Abyssinians, Jibbel Sebain, or hill without anchorage. Ras Mussalirib. Ras Shamah. Gurnah-Shur- nah. Gheesan Town, Gheesan Anchorage. THE COAST OF YEMBO, FROM LOHEIA TO RAS TOORFAH, WITH THE ISLANDS ON THE OUTER REEF, FORMING WITH THE COAST THE INNER CHANNEL, AND OTHERS ACROSS THE OUTER REEF, WITH ANCHORAGES, TO 17° 14' OF NORTH LATITUDE. From Loheia the coast turns N.E. by N. {true) about 9 miles, forming a slight bay between ; it then turns to the North 8 leagues to RAS MUSSAHRIB, in lat. 16° 14' N., and Ion. 42° 47J'E., forming a slight curve inward ; the whole space being bordered by a reef somewhat less than a mile in breadth, excepting in the vicinitv of the Ras, where a shoal patch extends 2 miles off. From Ras Mussahrib the coast bends about N. by W. i W. a distance of 40 miles, forming a bight with sinuosities to RAS SHAMAH, a projecting point, in lat. 16° 52' N., Ion. 42° 34' E., 3 miles S.E. of which is GURNAH SHURNAH, a bushy point, the reef bordering the shore all the way to the latter place, about half a mile wide. The coast nearly the whole space from Loheia is covered with jungle, without village, hut, or inhabitant. The town of GHEESAN is to the northward of Ras Shamah, and has a few square stone buildings, but the principal part of it consists of grass huts, which are mostly round, with pyramidal tops. It has a large fort, greatly decayed, and there is a small bazaar, scantily supplied with such dry provisions as the natives use, but none for ships. Water is very scarce. The population of Gheesan is about 400, employed chiefly in the pearl fishery, &c. on the banks in its neigh- bourhood. The anchorage is in 7 fathoms about 2 miles off shore, with the fort bearing N. 76° E. {true). There is a sunken sandy patch of 2 fathoms in the line of 6 fathoms soundings \\ miles to the S.W. {true) of the rocky point of the land, that is, about half a mile South of the town. The fort bears about N. 35° E {true) from this patch, distant about IJ miles, and a small white mosque in the town is in line with a remarkable rock on a hill behind it. The shore reef projects considerably about Gheesan, and the soundings are irregular inside the depth of 7 and 6 fathoms ; but there is a place in 3^ and 4 fathoms about a mile off shore, at a short distance from a rocky spot, forming an inner anchorage for small boats off the town. The Palinurus anchored in 4J fathoms RED SEA. — EAST SIDE — ISLANDS. 309 sand off the town, the fort bearing E.N.E. i E., and Has Shamah S. 30° E. (true). Ghecsan hills cannot be mistaken ; they are close behind the town, and have no other high land near them. Eight miles N.W. } W. (true) from Ras Shamah is the East end of FERAFER ISLAND, which is 24 miles F""!"'^' '''-nd in length W.N. W., narrow, low, and sandy. CORE ABOO-SABAH is a bight or arm of the sea, about 14 Core.Aboo. miles deep, running into the coast North of Ferafer Island : the inner and eastern part of it is shallow, but in the southern and western part is good anchorage of 6 and 7 fathoms, formed by a narrow neci^ of land, the South part of whicfi is called RAS TOORFAH. This Ras, or cape, extends within a mile, or little more, of the west part of Ferafer Island, having a good channel of 8 and 10 fathoms between. A little way North, within the Ras, is a small island, to the southward of which is 6 fathoms water, in a small bight for boats. To the E.N.E. of Ferafer Island the coast forms another bight, called GURNAH-WATAH, with a depth of G to Gornali-Wauli 8 fathoms in the outer part of it. sabiih. Good Aiiclior- of "«'= .. Ras 1 oorfali. RAS TOORFAH is in lat. 16° 59^ N., and Ion. 42° 23y E. The coast from thence runs nearly North a distance of 27 miles to Shab el Aboo Looker, where it forms a small bight, 7 miles South of which is Shab el Kebbeer. Here the coast reef extends nearly 2 miles from shore, decreasing in breadth both to the North and South ; but from Ras Toorfah 15 miles northward there is no coast reef. Having described the coast, we shall return to the southward, and commence with HAMMAR ISLAND, about 4 miles N.W. (true) of Loheia, is low, about 2^ miles in length N.E. and S.W., and three-quarters of a mile wide, having a fishing-hut or two on its western side. There is a small bight in the reef off its N.E. part, affording anchorage for small boats. There is little reef on the east and west sides, but it extends off the S.W. part nearly a mile towards the eastern psirt of Bowarred Island ; therefore, when passing between it and Bowarred, keep nearest to the latter island. Firewood may be had for cutting on Hammar, but no water. West from Hammar 9 miles, and about 3 miles North of the centre of Entookfash, is the low sandy island TULLOWAIN, with a Lttle rise on the eastern part, and surrounded by a reef extending from it nearly a mile. North-eastward G miles from Hammar is a small island near the coast reef, and North of it one mile is a rocky patch. Another rocky patch lies 3J miles East of Hammar. Five miles N.W. J W. (true) of Hammar Island is the low sandy island DORAMA, and nearly 3 miles N.N.E. (true) from it is ADJUAH ISLAND, its south end being the highest part ; and 3^ miles further N. by E. (true) is ZOORBAT ISLAND, upwards of a mile in length, and very narrow, niese tlu-ee islands are on the eastern edge of a narrow shoal bank, with 4 or 5 fathoms close to the eastward of it. E. by S. of Zoorbat, about 3^ miles, is a small sand-bank or island, called DYER ISLAND, and to the S.S.E. of it are two others of the same description, occupying a space of 2 or 3 miles, and each of them surrounded by a reef. There is a narrow passage of 6 or 7 fathoms between Dyer Island and the other two, but it is best to pass either to the East or West of them. At 6 miles to S.W. (true) of Zoorbat, and to the West of Adjuah, are the two BEREE ISLANDS, small and low, with a fisherman's hut on the North end of the inner one ; they are surrounded by reefs, and have 1 7 fathoms between them. North-easterly 3 and 4| miles from Zoorbat Island are the islands JUREB and RUCKLE, two low sandy spots, with reefs off them, extending 1 mile to the westward ; and 1 mile S.W. of Jurab is a small rocky patch. To the N.W. of Ruckle, about 2J and 3 miles, are the low sandy islands ZUDGE and ZOHA, situated on an extensive bank of irregular soundings ; 1 mile to the North of Zudge is a 2 fathoms patch, and 3^ miles in the same direction from it is an extensive 1 fathom bank. SHAB NUSSEEB is a shoal about 2 miles long, nearly dry in some parts, and has a small patch above water about 2 miles East of Jurab. Shab-el. Aboo Looker. Sbiib el Keb- beer. Hammar Island. Tnllowain Mind. Dorama, Ad- jiiab, and Zoor- bat Islands. Dyer Island. Berce Islands. Jurab and Hiickle Islands. Zudge and Zoha Island's. Shab-Nusseeb. BAACE is a small island, situate on the South end of the innermost part of the Outer Reef, and has a patch Baace Island, of 1 fathom half a mile South of it, and also a patch 2 miles W. N.W. (tnif) from it, on a point of the reef about 3 miles East from Zudge ; S.W. (true) of the last-mentioned patch about half a mile is another, having a channel of 13 fathoms between them. Baace is about 5 miles off the coast reef, wliich is here the breadth of the Inner Channel, with a depth of 5 to 12 fathoms. From Baace the inner edge of the Outer Reef runs about 14 miles North a little westerly to a point on which there are 5 fathoms about 4 J miles off Ras Mussabrib, but the channel is only 2\ miles wide between it and the reef that extends about 2 miles off the Ras. N. by W. (true) of Baace, distant Gi and 8i miles, are the islands ABOO-SHEDGER and GORAB, and about 2 miles S.W. of the latter is ABOO "SHAD" GUTHERBAN and HAWROOF arc two small islands, lying a little to the North of Baace. All these are low sandy islands, situated on the inner part of the Outer Reef, between which, and also to the northward of them, are many dangerous patches, rendering it unsafe to attempt to pass over the reef in this neighbourhood. LOBAN ISLAND lies North, at the distance of 10 miles from Kotama Island before described, in lat. 15° 52' Loban Island. N., Ion. 42° 21' E. This island is composed of coral rock with a layer of soft earth and sand on the top; Aboo-Shcdgcr, Gorab, Guther- ban, and Haw- root' Islands. 310 RED SEA. EAST SIDE ISLANDS. it is low and of inconsiderable dimensions, the water having made passages through the lowest part, and part of the sides arc broken down. The reef upon which it is situated extends a quarter of a mile off the North end, and nearly "2 miles from the South end, with 18 fathoms close to. South of the island 41 miles is the North end of a shoal, with 8 fathoms on it, from whence it extends southward. There are' 25 and 30 fathoms between. Toag Ibland. TOAG ISLAND lies about N. f E. (true), distant 9^ miles from Gorab Island and 4 miles from the coast reef, with deep water all round it, and may be passed on either side ; it is about 4 miles North of the North point of the reef before mentioned, 4^ miles to the westward of Ras Mussahrib. Ashig Island. About N.N.W. {tnie) 4 miles from Toag is ASHIG ISLAND, with two others lying in the same direction at three-quarters and 2 miles from it. These islands are on a narrow bank, which extends about 7 miles N. by W. (true) of Ashig, and 1^ miles to the South of it, the North part having from 2 to 5 fathoms on it. Between this bank and the coast reef the channel is from 4 to 5 miles wide, with 8 to 10 or 12 fathoms in it, but, like Toag, it may be passed on either side. Dihrct-Jaflree About N. by W. (true) 12 miles from the north end of the last-mentioned bank is the little island DAHRET Mand. JAFFREE, with 10 fathoms all round it, and 2 or 3 miles to the N.W. (true) of it, the islands JAFFREE and Jaffrec anil GUTHIER, situate on a bank, with 2 fathoms between them. These are also about 5 miles from the coast reef, GuthiVr and may be passed on either side, there being 10 fathoms within, and 25 to 30 on their outside. ''*• The inner edge of the Outer Reef, from abreast of Ras Mussahrib, forms a bight with deep water to the S.W. and then extends North to lat. 16° 23' N. It thence turns to the westward very irregularly 13 miles, and then to the southward in the same irregular manner to the parallel of 15° 52' N., thence E. and N.E. (true) to Baace Omel-Ham- Island, having several islands and patches on it, but no clear channel. Of these islands the first is OMEL niatii Inland. HAMMATH, at the distance of 5J miles W. by S. (true) of Toag, and about 1| miles on the Outer Reef. It is a small coral island, with another small island North of it, a patch l-J miles to the East, and another to the N. E. El Bother EL BOTHER is a high remarkable rock, about 5 miles S.W. (true) of Omel Hammath, with five small rocky Rock. islands from North to West. TOKAILLAH ISLANDS are two in number, which are also high and rocky, lokaillah situated to the N.W. (true) of El Bother ; the smaller, distant 1 mile from it, is of triangular shape, and nearly 1 J miles long and three-quarters of a mile in the broadest part. The larger island is more of a horse-shoe shape, and upwards of 5 mil^s in circumference ; it has a small village, a mosque, and some wells of brackish water. (iibel-Jingand GIBEL JING and MUFFIAGANE are two small, high, and rocky islands, S.W. (ie) of it is DORAKER ISLAND, with 30 fathoms near its S.E. side. ABOO SROOGAR is near its N.E. end, and has 24 fathoms near its east side. This is a very small island, composed of madripore, cracked and broken into numerous pieces, forming deep clefts, through some of which the water passes, while others are filled with sand and earth, where some jungle trees have sprung up. The bank from thence extends about 5 miles westward, with 16 fathoms on its extremity, but on some parts it is very shallow. The other three islands lie to the N.N.W. (true) of Sale Shertef. About 2 miles E.N.E. of Aboo Shoogar is a patch of 13 fathoms, and 30 fathoms to the eastward of it. Dahret-Simer Island. Muzzaguf Island. Dahret-Jafi'ree, Jaffree and Guthier Islands. Amnah-Omcl, Curra, and Omel- Currip Islands. Jeseerat Hubber. Sale-Shertef, Duraker, and Abuo-Slioogar Islands. 312 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE — ISLANDS. Sliuorali Island and bank. Gurab Bank and Island, N.W. by N. (true), distant 11 miles from Jeseerat Hubber and 2 J miles to the westward of Ras Toorfah, is SHOORAH ISLAND, which forms the extent of this part of the inner channel, with regular decreasing soundings from the island to the Ras, near which are 7 fathoms. Shoorah is a small and low island, situated upon the eastern end of a bank of rocks and sand, extending to W.N.W. nearly 7 miles, with soundings of 2 to 12 fathoms on it. This bank lies in a direction with GORAB BANK, and between them there is a channel of deep water 3 miles \ride. GORAB ISLAND lies W.N.W. J W. (true), distant 13^ miles from Shoorah, and near the west end of the bank just mentioned ; it is rather high, and little more than half a mile in length, with a small black rock off its north end. Gorab Bank is about 5 miles long and 3 broad, with irregular soundings of 9 to 20 fathoms, on rocks and sand. Theran Island. THERAN ISLAND is 9| miles N.N.W. J W. (true) from Shoorah, at 7 miles off the coast, and is on the west side of the Inner Channel. The highest part forms a steep bluff to the westward, which is 60 feet above the level of the sea, and has 25 fathoms pretty close to it ; a small bank extends off the north side of the island, with bad holding ground. This island lies E.N.E. (true) 0^ miles from Gorab, and there is a good deep channel between it and Gorab Bank. Farsan Islands. Description of marks, anchor- ages, and land of Farsan. Jihbel-Cassar, Jibbel-Mara- bah, and Jibbel Munihak. Jibhel-Momed. Jibbel-Deesan. Jibbel- Suffer. Remarkable Bluff. Channel near the east end of Far>an- Kebt-er. Coolatn Island. Haffer Island. Aboo-Shoory Island. THE FARSAN ISLANDS are the largest all along this coast, and are situated upon the extensive banks west of Gheesan. They are two in number, but may be considered as forming one island, being connected by a sandy spit of shoal water, across which camels frequently pass from one to the other. On the east side of this spit is CORE HASSIEFF. and on the west side, CORE BUCKARRAH. They are of very irregular shape, and will be better understood by the chart than by any written description. The westernmost is FARSAN KEBEER, 31 miles in lena;th N.W. f W., extending from lat. 16° 35'N., Ion. 42° 13' E., to lat. 16°54'N., Ion. 41°47'E. FARSAN SEGGEER is on its N.E. side, 18 miles in length, and extends to lat. 17° r J N. Although their whole breadth is only 12 miles' they measure round their edges 130 miles. The S.E. point lies 26 miles S.W. J W. (true) from Gheesan, and N.W. by N. (true) 6^ miles from Simer Island, before described. The land of Farsan is of considerable height, interspersed with some plains and valleys. The hilly parts are coral rock, the most remarkable of which is Jibbel Cassar, a small round hill. East of Tibtah Bay ; Jibbel Marabah, a table hummock, on an island near Farsan, about 5 miles N.E. (true) of Tibtah Bay. Jibbel Munthak, 11 miles N.W. (true) of the last-mentioned, is a high island, lying in an East and West direction, having on its North side the entrance to Core Suggeed. Jibbel Moraed is a high hill, like a quoin, on the easternmost point of an island of that name, off the northern part of Farsan : Jibbel Deesan, a high hummock on the south part of an island of the same name, off the N.W. part of Farsan Kebeer, and forms the S.W. side of the entrance to Core Buckarrah. Jibbel Suffer is an elevated part of the island to the northward, with a tree on its top, and is to the south-westward of Sale Abado Island. Remarkable Bluff is of quoin-shape on some bearings, and from the southward appears like a hummock with a peak in the centre ; it is situated on the western part of the south end of the island, on the east side of the eastern entrance to Goomah Bay ; there are also three remark- able tiees two miles South of Jibbel Cassar. About midway between the S.E. point of the Farsan Kebeer and Marabath Island, and near to Farsan, is the island GOMARREE, situated on the west side of a channel, through which vessels may pass from Gheesan to the south-westward and contrary. Half a mile East of Gomarree is a two-fathoms patch, and further eastward are three other patches in the entrance of the channel, which, throughout, is about 2 miles wide. The shoals are numerous in this neighbourhood and about Farsan Island, and tlie eye must be the principal guide to a vessel entering either way. The surveyors seldom had much difficulty in seeing the reefs. Vessels having occasion to enter this channel from the south-westward must avoid a bank that extends to the South of the S.E. point of Farsan Kebeer 2t miles, which from thence turns round to N.E., with 3 to 2 fathoms on it ; and also of the little island Hindea'h, to the East of this bank, and 3 miles S.E. by E. | E. (true) from the S.E. point of Farsan. One mile S. by E. (true) of Hindeah is a small island, surrounded by a shoal, and S.E. (true) of it 1 mile is a patch of 1 to 5 fathoms. Due East from the S.E. point of Farsan, rather more than 3 miles, is the island COOLAM, with several small islands and rocks to the South, West, and North, at 1|, 2, and 3 miles' distance, on a bank that forms the east and south sides of the above channel. Off the bank, due West of the south end of Coolam, is a rocky patch in the channel, having 10 fathoms between it and the bank, and 15 fathoms on its western edge. To the N. E. (true) of Goomaree is HAFFER, a small rocky island, and a cluster of small rocky islands on the edge of the rocky bank, which extends about 5 miles to the East of Farsan, and forms the north side of the channel eastward just mentioned. The northernmost of this cluster is called ABOO SHOORY Island, and about half a mile to the N. E. of it is a bank of rocks and sand, with 3 to 15 fathoms on it ; and between the south end of this bank and Aboo Shoory, there is no ground at 40 fathoms. The bank extends nearly 4 miles N.E. and is 11 miles wide. bah'Tsl'and"*' - ^^^^^}^ MARABAH ISLAND lies to the northward of Haffer, and near a projecting point of Farsan Kebeer ; it is about half a mile long, composed of rocks, and is the highest island in this neighbourhood. It RED SEA. — EAST SIDE — ISLANDS. 313 has a flat top or hummock of the barn shape, is surrounded by a {jroup of small low islands, and appears from the northward as if part of Farsan Island. JIBBEL ABDOOLAD is a small rocky island to the North of Marabah, and is also surrounded by a group Jibbtl Abdoo. of smaller islands ; it may easily be distinguished by a knob or remarkable bUiff on its south end. This island '"'' '»land. and group are situated upon a bank off the Farsan coast, which extends from Marabah, and forms a tongue or point, 3 or 4 miles northward of Abdoolad Island, having between it and Farsan a bight of deep soundings. MUNTHAK ISLAND, mentioned above, in lat. 1G° 49' Nortli, is about .3 miles in length, East and West, Mumhak and 1 mile broad at the east end, tapering to the West, where it is only half a mile broad ; it is high, and com- Inland, posed of coral. To the South of Munthak is CORE HASSIEFF, running idiout 8 miles into Farsan Kebeer ; Core Hasticff. it has from 5 to 8 fathoms depth, but is narrow and full of shoal patches ; there arc also some rocky islands on the west side of it, and two small rocky islands IJ miles east of Munthak Island, which forms the east side of the entrance. A dangerous rocky spit runs nearly 3 miles to the North of these islands, being the extremity of the reefs on the north part of Farsan Kebeer. CORE SUGGEED is to the west of Munthak Island. This is an excellent harbour, of more than a mile Core Suggecd. extent, with 9 to 12 fathoms. Here is a small village and a grove of date trees on its north side, in which are many wells of good water. The houses are small and built of coral, and are mostly in ruins ; and there are no supplies to be obtained besides water. The anchorage is defended from all winds and sea ; the entrance to it is a quarter of a mile broad, bounded on the South by Munthak Island, and on the North by five small islands, off the westernmost of which there is a rocky spit, extending to the S.W. half a mile into the bay, which must be avoided. There are some dangerous patches East, E.N.E., and N.E. (true) of Munthak Island, distant from 3J to 4 miles, forming a rocky spit. A line from Dthabuck Island to the highest part of Munthak, or Munthak bearing S. 42° W. (true) will clear them. The northernmost of the islands forming the entrance to Core Seggeer, bears S. 78° W. (true) from the point of the spit. Having entered the bay and cleared the spit running off the westernmost island steer up to the N.W., and anchor off the grove of trees, in 12 fathoms mud. N.E. (true), distant o miles from the N.E. point of Munthak Island, is the island DTHABUCK ; and S.E., 1 mile from it, is a patch of 2 fathoms : W.S.W. (true), 2^ and 3 miles from this island, are too rocky patches. N.W. ;|N. 7 miles from Dthabuck and S.S.W. (true) from Gorab, distant 6 miles, is the httle island SALE ABADO. Dthabuck and Sale Abado are small coral rocks, of a round shape, and from 10 to 15 or 20 feet Island. high, spreading out at the top with a sharp circumference, and falling in considerably towards the base. They are called by some Pie Islands. A bank extends from Farsan Seggeed to the eastward of Sale Abado, con- sisting of shoal water and groups cf small rocky islands. JESEERAT HACKB.\NE, the northernmost and Jeseerat largest of these islands, is 7 miles to the N.W. (true) of Sale Abado, and 7^ miles West of Gorab Island. It forms a narrow stripe half a mile broad and 2 miles long, with two small islands off its north end. The bank extends 7 or 8 miles to the N.W. of it, with shallow irregular soundings. Between Jeseerat Hackbane and Gorab is a channel of deep water, 4 miles broad. Dthabuck Island. Sale .\bndo Hni:kbaiie Inland. RAS RUSSEEB, the North point of Farsan Seggeer, is in lat. 17° 1 J' N., Ion. 41° 53' E. W.N.W. (true) from Ras Russeeb, distant 4J miles, is the East end of JIBBEL MOMED Island, which is 2 miles long and 1 mile broad ; the eastern part forms a high quoin-shaped hill, the other parts low groimd of sand and coral. 1'he island is nearly surrounded by a gut of deep water, of 15 to 20 fathoms mud. A bank runs off its North end, with 3 to 8 fathoms on it, and at 3J miles North of the eastern part of the island there is a patch of 2 fathoms. Ras Iliissetb. Jibbcl Moniid Island. KHYNAH ISLAND is 5^ miles W.S.W. J W. (true) of Jibbel Momed ; it is a low triangular island of sand and coral, 1 mile broad, surrounded by five small islands, two of which are off its north end, and on the West a larger one ; one on the S.W. and one on the S.E. They are all surrounded by a coral reef, which is connected with the bank that runs to the westward, from the north end of Farsan Seggeer. N. by W. (true), 8 miles from Khynah, is the small rocky island MUTTERHANE ; and N. and N. by W., 7 and 8 miles from Jibbel Momed, are four shallow rocky patches, with 1 1 and 1 8 fathoms near them. Between these patches and Mutterhane is a bank of irregular soundings, 3g miles wide, stretching 3 or 4 miles north- ward, with 35 and 40 fathoms near its edges. W.N.W. J W. (true), 5J miles from Khynah, is a small rocky island, with a reef round it, called DAHRET MUTTERHA'NE. and to the North of it, 2| miles, is a rocky bank of 20 to 25 fathoms, and no bottom at 40 and GO fathoms near it. S.S.E. (true), about 3 miles from Khynah, is the north point of JESEERAT DEESAN ISLAND, whose western edge extends 4j miles southward; it is of triangular form, nearly 15 miles in circumference, and is generally flat near the sea, rising gradually towards the centre, having at its south part a remarkably high hill. The S.E. part of Jeseerat Deesan is connected, by a bank of shallow soundings, with the N.W. point of Farsan 2 S Khynah Island. Muitcrbane and Dahrec Mulierhanc Islands. Jeseerat Dee- ndu IblaiiU. 314 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE — ISLANDS. Triangular Island. Core Buck- arrab. Anchorage, Sayel village. Fresh water, Sarso and Sinde Sarso Islands, Button Rock. Umal Bisran Island. Shoal Bank. Zelfeef Island and Bank. Low sandy Islands. Selwan Island. Goomah Island. Core Goomah. Kebeer, and there are two small rocky islands between them, and a larger on the S.E. part of Deesan, with a small boat's channel to the westward of it. The banks oiF the east side have some dangerous rocks, but the other sides have deep water. A small island lies off its north end, with deep water between them. On the south side of the island are the remains of a vUlage, consisting of about one hundred houses, built of rough stones without cement, and near it a cemetery, containing about one thousand Mussulman graves, and a tomb, enclosed by a wall. This place is said to have been inhabited fifty years ago. Neither wood nor water were found. S.W., 3 miles from Ras Russeeb, and 4 miles S.S.E. (true) from Jibbel Momed, is a triangular island, 5 or 6 miles in circumference, on the South edge of the bank that extends westward from Ras Russeeb to Khynah Island, having 16 fathoms to the southward of it; and about mid- way between this island and Jibbel Momed is an island, about a mile in length, and three small ones due west of it, all low coral islands. On the south edge of this bank, and 4 miles to the westward of the Triangular Island, is a patch of one fathom. It is about 2 J miles from the N.E. side of Jeseerat Deesan, and there is deep water close to the southward of it. Five miles East of Ras Farsan Kebeer is the N.W. part of Farsan Seggeed, where there is a small village, called KEFTIB, on the highest part of the land. Between these is the entrance to CORE BUCKARRAH, formed by the Farsan Islands, and runs in to the S.E. about 14 miles. The outer entrance is between Khynah Island and Jeseerat Deesan. There are irregular soundings of 4 to 8 fathoms in the innermost half, and the outer part has deep water. It is not advisable for ships to run entirely up, as some parts of it are so narrow that they would have to warp a considerable way out against a north-westerly wind. The bank which con- nects Jeseerat Deesan with Ras Farsan extends 4 or 5 miles within the Ras, on the edge of which a ship may anchor in 16 to 18 to 20 fathoms, 1 J or 2 miles eastward of the Ras. At 2^ miles eastward of the Ras, and on the edge of the bank, is a small patch, with three feet water on it ; and about 4^ miles S.E. of the Ras, is the village of SAYEL. There are two or three wells of very good water just within the narrowest part of the Core, close to the beach, on the western side. The N.W. part of Farsan Kebeer is high and rocky. S.W. by S. (true) distant 8 miles from Khynah, is the north end of SARSO ISLAND, extending thence about 5 miles to the S.E. ; and to the eastward, and parallel to it, another island, called Sinde Sarso ; they are two nar- row coral islands, about a ^ and 5 of a mile broad, and both of considerable height, the outer one being 160 feet about the level of the sea, with sharp points of coral above the surface. The channel between them has from 14 to 20 fathoms in the middle, but is narrow and blocked up at the S.E. end by small islands and shoal water. It affords good protection from southerly winds, but it is not advisable to anchor in it with northerly winds, as there would be some difficulty in getting out. These islands are situated on the eastern verge of extensive shoal water, called Shaab Farsan, which extends about 10 miles to the westward, and 18 miles to the N.W. There is a small rocky islet close to the West of Sarso, about a mile from its N.W. point, which, from its singular appearance, is called CAPE ISLAND, or BUTTON ROCK, appearing like a button standing on its shank. E. by S. about 6 miles from Sarso, is the island UMAL BISRAN, about 5 miles round, rather high, with a valley in the centre, into which the salt water flows ; it abounds with wood, but there is no fresh water. It is about a mile distant from Farsan Kebeer, and N.W. of it, from 1^ to 2| miles, is a bank with 1 to 2 fathoms water on it. Nearly 3 miles South of Umal Bisran is the north part of ZELFEEF ISLAND, of about 7^ miles in length £md 2 miles broad ; the land is high, and a small cove runs up into the N.W. part of the island, from which fresh water may be procured, but with some difficulty ; wood may also be cut here, and antelopes are to be found. Zelfeef is situated on the same bank with Umal Bisran and the shoal North of it, which bank extends to the S.E., and includes Doomsook and Goomah Islands, hereafter described. There is a deep channel between this bank and Farsan, from 3 to 4 miles wide, and also a deep channel between it and the outer bank or reef, called Shab Farsan. To the S.W. (true) of Zelfeef, on the reef, is a chain of low sandy islands in a S.E. direction, with very shallow water about them. S.E. (true) from Zelfeef li miles, and on the inner edge of the same bank, is the island SELWAN, about 2 miles in length, high, and of coral formation, having shallow water on the S.W. and deep on the N.E. side. E. by S. 7 1 miles from Selwan, is the island GOOMAH, having three high coral islands between, and on the same bank. Goomah Island is of circular shape and 9 miles round, with a deep gut or small core on its South side, and a rocky spit extending nearly a mile off its north end, with 9 fathoms close to it, and less water towards the main. This island is at the end of the deep-water channel, is of considerable elevation on its south part, and has a remarkable sand-hill on its North end, to the eastward of which is a small fishing village ; the inhabitants are in a wretched state. There are some wells of brackish water, but no cattle or other supplies. There is a very good bay on the north part of the island, called CORE GOOMAH, affording protection from all winds. It is formed by a bight in the south part of Farsan Kebeer Island, is 7 mUes in length. East and West, and at the narrowest part is IJ miles broad, and the same distance from the North end of the rocky spit, on the north side of Goomah, and the main. The deepest water is on the N.E. side of Goomah, where in the centre are 18 fathoms. The rocky spit bears from the sand-hill N. 30° E. (true). At the N.E. part of the bay is a well of fresh RED SEA. — EAST SIDE — ISLANDS. 315 water, but it is very scarce. Farsan village is about 2 miles to the North of it. In this part of Core Goomah is TIBTAH BAY ; it is only a small merza for boats. Jibbel Cussar, bearing B. 4" S., is the leading mark Tibtali Bay. for the harbour. Supplies of any kind are not procurable here. Nearly 3 miles S.S.E. (true) from Goomali is DOOMSOOK ISLAND, situated on the same shallow bank. Doomsook This island is high, about 7 miles in circumference, with a core in it of 15 and 20 fathoms mud, which nearly Island, divides it in two : there is no fresh water, but plenty of antelopes. To the southward of Doomsook are two circular banks, in the centre of the deep channel : the least water found on them is 6 fathoms, sand and rocks. DOHARAB is a low sandy island, about 2 miles in length. North and South, in hit. 16° 18^' N., and Ion. 41° 59' E., is surrounded by a reef nearly 2 miles wide, with G to 14 fathoms close to it. Five miles from its west side there are 25 fathoms, and 9 miles further West there is no bottom at 160 fathoms. The island is of triangular form, and has a small islet close to its N.E. side. Six miles N.W. by N. from Doharab, is another island of similar size, called MURRAK, and 2 miles further, in the same direction, is the little island DOWASSELA, both situated on a reef, which extends two miles South and West of Murrak, and 1 mile to the East of it, including another little island North of Murrack. There is a channel between the reefs which surround this island and Doharab, 2^ miles wide, with 1 1 to 1 7 fathoms in it. Murrak is about 6 miles within or N.E. of the depth of 24 fathoms, and 9 miles further S.W. there is no bottom at 160 fathoms. There appears to be no safe channel across the Outer Reef between Dowassela and its N.W. extremity, in lat. 17" 3^' N., a distance of 16 leagues. There are several small islands and patches on it, now to be partially described. This part of the Outer Reef is called Shaab Farsan. Four miles N.E. (trve) of Murrack, in a line between that island and Doomsook, are the two little islands, OMEL ZAHUL and MAHAMAH, situated near the inner edge of the Outer Reef, about a mile apart, with 6 fathoms between them. To the W.S.W. (true) of Zelfeef, about 7 miles, is another small island near the middle of the reef. There are also three small sandy islands lying to the S.W. of Sarso, one distant 3 miles, the other two 6 miles. The water is very shoal on Shaab Farsan, in their neighbourhood. Six mUes W. a little S. from the north end of Sarso, are DITHAHAYER and HARNEESH ISLANDS, close together, and both small and sandy. N.W. by N. from these, and 10 mUes W.N.W. (true) from the north end of Sarso, is SALE MACOWA ISLAND, surrounded by a shallow bank, and several rocks to the eastward of it. This is the northernmost island on Shaab Farsan, and from it to the extremity of the bank are numerous dangerous rocky patches. Doharab Island. Murrak and Dowassela Islands. Omel Zahul and Mabainali Islands. Dithahayer and Ilarnecsli Islands. Sale Macowa Island. THE COAST OF ARABIA, EROM RAS TOORFAH TO COOMFIDAH, WITH THE OPPOSITE ISLANDS AND SHOALS UPON THE INNER EDGE OF THE OUTER REEF, FORMING THE INNER CHANNEL. From RAS TOORFAH the coast runs N. J W. 27 miles to SHAB EL ABOO LOOKER, 7 miles to the South of which is SHAB EL KEBEER, a part of the coast reef, the centre of which projects IJ miles from the shore, and gradually tapers away to the North and South. There are 4 fathoms close to the edge of the reef. From Shab El Aboo Looker, the coast turns to N.W. 8 or 9 miles to CORE EL ETWID, which runs ei Etwid. a short distance into the coast, and has 2^ and 2 fathoms on it. There is a long shoal off the entrance, with 3 fathoms inside, and there is a 1| fathom patch of rocks 2 miles W. by N. of the entrance, and 1 mile off the coast, with 5 fathoms just outside it. The village of Etwid is 5 or 6 miles inland. Jibbel Etwid, a very Jibbel Etwid. remarkable peak on this part of the coast, is to the N.E. of Core El Etwid, and will easily be known, as it appears quite unconnected with the range of hills in the neighbourhood, and is much nearer to the coast. Eight mUes N.W. (true) from El Etwid is GEEASS, off which is a long reef about 1 mile from the coast, Geeass. with 2 and 3 fathoms within it; and nearly 4 miles West of this place is a patch of rocks, with 4^ fathoms on it. About 9 miles further is EL MAJIS, a Bedouin village, well peopled, off which the coast reef projects nearly El Majis. 3 quarters of a mile, forming the little CORE EL MUCKERAH to the North. Between Geeass and El ei Muckerab Majis, at 3i and 6i miles from the former, are SHOOKAKE and COOTOOF EL MUSSAREE. WIDAN is 12 miles N.W. (true) of El Majis ; at this place a narrow neck of land projects from the coast, forming a semicircular bay, three-quarters of a mile broad, affording good protection from southerly winds only ; the depths within are 3 and 4 fathoms : seen from the westward, this point of land has the appearance of an island. There are no buildings nor fresh water, but cattle are plentiful. There is a high hill close to the sea, on the northern part of Widan anchorage, called Jibbel Buggarah. Jibbel Ruckerbut Chuddore, is a high hill forming a cape to the southward of Widan anchorage. Jibbel Hooseniel Maijis is the southern extreme of the range of hills just described ; its northern part is conical, with a fort on it. Jibbel Widan lies East of Jibbel Buggarah ; the centre, or highest part, forms a small peak. From Theran Island to Widan, there is anchorage all along the coast, and the names of places are as already enumerated, and as given in the chart ; there are said to be many small villages along this part of the coast a few mUes inland. W.Pf-.W. (true) 5 miles from Widan is KOTUMBLE ISLAND, situated about 2 miles from the main. It is 2 S 2 Widan ancbor- age. Jibbel Bug. garah. Jibbel Rucker- but Chuddore. Jibbel Hoose- niel Marjis. Jibbel Widan. Anchorages. Kotumble Island. 316 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. about half a mile in length, and forms a rugged peak, like a quoin, four or five hundred feet high, with a steep ascent on its north side, the only part accessible. The top of it is only a few yards in length, and very narrow, formin" a perpendicular declivity to the South and West : on the East it forms a steep slope. The character of the rocks found on the island is volcanic ; but there is no volcano now, nor is there any a])pearance of any eruption having taken place for many years. There are 12 fathoms between Kotumble and the main. About 3 miles S. by E. from Kotumble, and 3^ miles westerly from Widan. is a patch, with 30 fathoms to the northward of it. Cussar. El Wussim, South Anchorage. El Wussim, North Anchorage. Aboo Lcif and Assore Islands. Dahban. El Burk. Good anchor- age. Nahood. Jibbel Tuse Sharra. Jibbel Tuse Yemtnenere. Shifting Peak. Ernege. Ome Kergane. Jafofe. Good anchor- age. Bojamar. Halli Point. CUSSAR is a small Bedouain village, 7 miles N. 41° W. (true) from Widan point, and north 3 miles of Ko- tumble ; here are the ruins of a brick-built fort, but no supplies can be procured. At 4 and 7 miles N.W. from Cassar lie the South and North roadsteads of EL WUSSIM, both affording good anchorage and protection, but it would be difficult to get out from the former in southerly winds. The latter has a bar of sand across the entrance, which connects the shore reef to the shoal on the north part of the entrance. The least water found on the bar is 2 J fathoms; within it there are 6 and 7 fathoms mud. The remarkable hummocks between these anchorages wilf direct to either of them : these are three steep and lofty hills, in one, when bearing East, the anchorage Ipng to the South and North of them. The outer or westernmost hill is called Wussim ; the inner one the third hummock, and the centre one the fourth. N. 17° W. {true), distant 5 miles from El Wussim North, and close to the shore, is ABOO LELF ISLAND; and 3 miles N.W. \ W. {true) from it, another island, called ASSORE, about a mile from the coast : the former, a small quoin, separated from the shore by a narrow shallow channel ; the latter, a low wooded island, and both surrounded with reefs forming good anchorages. The reef extends westward 2 miles from Aboo Lelf, from whence it bends to the S.E., forming an inlet 1| miles deep to N.N.W. opposite Dahban, in which it is not advisable to anchor with southerly winds. The reefs above Assore Island, and to the northward of it, extend about 3 miles from the coast, and form inlets to the South and North of that island, with good anchorages, which will be better understood by looking at the chart than by any description that can be given. The same may be said of El Burk, about 4 miles to the north of Assore Island. This Core, or inlet, runs into the land to the North, and the west side of the entrance is partly formed by the coast-reef, extending southward from a projecting part of the coast. Here a vessel may find good shelter from all vi'inds. In the entrance is a shoal patch, the least water found on which is 4 fathoms ; within are 5 fathoms mud. There are some wells of good water near the shore, where are some date trees ; and there are the remains of a strong-built wall of unhewn stone, but no houses. The Shifting Peak, bearing N. 86° E. {true), leads to the entrance of this Core. NAHOOD is a good Core, 3 miles to the North of El Burk ; at its entrance Jibbel Tuse Sharm bears N. 65° E. {true). In the neighbourhood of Merser Nahood and El Burk, the range of hills converges towards the coast, the tops resembling the roof of a barn. Amongst these, there are two larger than the rest, called by the natives, Jibbel Tuse Sharm and Jibbel Tuse Yemmenere, or the woman's breasts. From El Burk they appear in the northernmost part of the range of hills, and then -will be better known by having to the southward a detached piece of land, shewing more like a barn than either of them. Shifting Peak is in the second highest range of mountains to the westward of Napood hills, and is very conspi- cuous when seen from the northward. Opposite Nahood the Inner Channel is \\ miles wide between the coast reef and a bank which extends eastward from Jeseeral Mogid, hereafter described. About 1 1 miles further northward is ERNEGE, a small Core formed in the coast reef, with 6 or 8 fathoms water. Here are no houses nor huts to be seen, nor can fresh water be procured. Between Nahood and Ernege is a bank lying parallel to the coast, called OME KERGANE, forming the west side of the Inner Channel, which is little more than a mile wide. The north end of this rocky bank is 3 miles South of Ernege ; it thence extends 6 miles southward, and is 1| to 2 miles wide. Its north part is rocky, shallow, and uneven ; on the south part the water is somewhat deeper. Within this bank there is no coast reef, and the mid-channel depth is about 20 fathoms, but there are two shallow patches at the north end of it. Four miles to the northward of Ernege is JAFOFE, the coast between forming a point, from which a reef extends southward 2 miles, with 2 fathoms on it, within which are 9 to 6 fathoms in Ernege anchorage. Between this reef and Ome Kergane is a patch, with 2^ fathoms on it. From the last-mentioned point of land to Halli point it is 7| miles N.W. {true), the coast between forming a bay, with good anchorage in 5, 7, and 8 fathoms, well sheltered from N. and E. winds, but the coast is bordered with a reef. On the east side of the bay, besides Jafofe before mentioned, is BOJAMAR, nearly East from the point ; there is neither house nor hut at either of these places. The Point of HALLI is bordered with an extensive reef, and some patches ; the anchorage off this point, in 6 or 7 fathoms, is rather exposed. There are no houses to be seen, but a town or village is said to be not far inland. RED SEA. — EASI SIDE — ISLANDS. 317 Ras tl .\boo Kalbe. Serome. Undareh. Rns Abboo Mutnah. Mircasser. Mooljamarree and Ummiis- secfah Islands, N.W. by N. (true), 8 miles from Halli Point, is a projecting point of land, called RAS EL ABOO KALBE ; the reef, about mid-way between, extending 2 miles from shore, with 4 fathoms close to it. Five miles to tlie northward of the point is Serome, and 4 miles further is Undareh, off which Jibbel Halli bears N. 88" E. (true). SEROME has a small anchorage for boats. The anchorage at UNDAREH is formed by a shoal of the same name, the South part of which has patches that are dangerous. The safest channel, in or out, is to the northward of the reef; and if going out through the South entrance, run 3 or 4 miles to the southward of the anchorage before hauling to the westward. The depth at the anchorage is about 7 fathoms. Upwards of 3 miles N.W. (true) is RAS ABBOO MUTNAH. MERCASSER is about 4 miles N. by W. (true) from Ras Abboo Mutnah, and nearly 11 miles S. 18° E. of Coomfidah. This place has good protection from southerly winds, but there are some small jiatchcs in the entrance to the anchorage. The place will be known by the MOOLGAMARREE ISLANDS, which are in its neighbourhood, and have anchorage all round them. Si.\ miles N.N.W. (true) of them is UMMUSSEEFAH ISLAND ; they are all low sandy islands, covered vcith bushes, and there are some rocky patches in their neighbourhood, easy to be discerned. The best channel is between the islands and the main : or you may pass between the islands, avoiding the rocky shoals South of them, and a rocky patch off the northernmost one. COOMFIDAH is a small town, surrounded by a wall, and is under the Turkish government : it has two Coomfidah. forts towards the sea, and to the southward, without the walls, is a mosque, \nth a minaret. It has a small bazaar, which affords sufficient for the consumption of the place ; but by waiting a few days, supplies of cattle may be obtained from the interior. The best water on the coast is to be had here, and as quickly as the ships' boats can carry it off: it is brought down in mussucks, on camels, alongside the boats, and the casks filled. In July and August, good grapes are also to be had. The anchorage is formed by a low bushy island, off the port, which is surrounded by a reef, easy to be Anchorage, seen, and may be approached close in luffing up to fetch the anchorage. There is a small shoal to the North of the island, and the best channel is between it and the island reef, where there are 7 and 8 fathoms. There is a narrow channel, of 5 or 6 fathoms, to the eastward of the island, used by boats : it is formed by the island reef and a rocky spit off the town. There is also a shallow channel of about 2 fathoms to the North of the small shoal in the entrance, but it is rocky, and not to be recommended. There is good, well-sheltered anchorage in 2| fathoms, mud, with the North fort bearing E. 25" N. and the South fort E. 15° S. The remarkable mountam, Gose Abool Ire, bears E. 7° 30' N. from this anchorage. Jibbel Halli JIBBEL HALLI mountain is to the S.E. (true) of Coomfidah, in the nearest range of hills : it is a very remarkable, pyramidal piece of land, when seen from that place and to the North of it ; but in proceeding south- ward it quickly alters, and at Undareh it appears an oblong hill, with its northern part rounded off abruptly. Having completed the description of the coast, from Ras Toorfah as far as Coomfidali, we shall return to the southward, and commence a description of the islands, rocks, and shoals, on and near the -inner edge of the outer reef, which may be considered as forming the western side of the Inner Channel. The first is a patch of 2 fathoms, lying N. 42° W. (true) 7| miles from Thcran Island and 1 1 miles from shore ; 18 fathoms are close within it. West about 2 miles from this patch is another, a rocky patch, of 2 to 4 fathoms, with 30 fathoms between them ; and about 2 miles further N.W. a rocky patch, 2-' miles over, with 3 or 4 fathoms on it, and IS close to the westward of it. W.N.W. (true) 22 miles from Theran Island is the south end of MUMMARLE SEGGEER, a narrow coral reef, over which the sea breaks in some parts, extending about 10 miles N.N.W., with a rock about 15 or 20 feet above water at the north end, called MUTBAR- HANE. E. 14° S. 13 miles from Mutbarhane is a 3 fathoms' patch, with 33 and 3G fathoms close to it; this is 13 miles from shore. One mile South of Mummarle Seggeer is a rocky patch, with 47 fathoms between, and from 3J to 5 miles East of its south end are three rocky patches. Five miles N. by E. (tnie) from Mutbarhane is the east end of MUMMARLE KEBEER, extending W. by N. 9 miles, of a triangular form, being 5 miles wide at the west end, in a N.E. direction ; it is full of patches, with deep water between them. This shoal lies 13 miles from shore, south-westward of Muckerah. S. 18° W. (true) 10 miles from Kotumble Island, and the same distance from Widan (the nearest shore), is a rocky reef, about H miles long; and to the S.E. of it, 1 mile, a rocky patch, with 19 fathoms between them : there is no ground at 30 fathoms at 1 mile within. To the southward of the latter, 2 miles, is a 4 fathoms' patch. SIMMER ISLAND, in latitude 17° 47' 30" N., longitude 41° 28' E., lies W. by S. (true) distant 19 miles from simmer Island. Widan. This island is IJ miles in length. East and West, and half a mile wide: it is very low, composed of coral and sand, and principally covered with decayed wood. The soundings are deep around it ; and if anchorage is required, it may be conveniently obtained either upon, or on the western edge of, the shoal to the N. and N.E. (true) of it. There are two small rocky ])atches 3i miles S.E. (true) of the island. There is a shoal to the N. and N.E. (true) of Simmer Island, 5 miles in length and nearly 3 miles broad ; the soundings obtained on it are from 3 to 19 fathoms; but there may be spots with less. On its western edge are 13 fathoms, mud. Patches N.W. of Theran. Mummarle Seggeer. Mutbarhane. Mummarle Kebeer. 318 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. Jeseeral Mo- gid Island. Hadarah Bank and Islands. Gad Hadarah Island. Ul Gereef Bank. Jeserat Goolna Island. gradually increasing to the N.W. This shoal commences about IJ miles N.E. of the island, and there is no bottom at 50 fathoms midway between them. N.E. (true) 6 miles from the island, is a rocky patch. JESEERAL MOGID, in latitude 18° 13'30"N., longitude 41° 24' E., is a low sandy island, with a large reef round it, which is joined to a bank of rocks and sand that forms the inner channel, before spoken of. Ten miles S.E. by S. (true) from Mogid is a rocky patch, on the south end of the aforesaid bank; and about 3 quarters of a mile S.E. (true) from it is a patch of 7 fathoms, at the distance of 4 miles from the coast reef, having 30 fathoms and upwards between. From the rocky patch, the east edge of the bank extends North 12 miles, narrowing the inner channel from 4 to 1^ mUes opposite Nahood, where the bank terminates. The south end of the bank is narrow ; but opposite Mogid its breadth increases suddenly, the eastern edge extending nearly 6 miles from that island. The depths on it are various and irregular, from 2 to 30 fathoms, the former being found 3i miles E.N.E. (true) from the island ; and there are 4 fathoms 2 miles North of the rocky patch, with 26 fathoms between. West of the south end of this bank, about 2} mUes, is a rocky bank, 3 miles long, with 4 to 13 fathoms on it. About 2 miles North of Jeseeral Mogid bank is the south end of Ome Kergane bank, already described. North of Jeseeral Mogid, 7 miles, and nearly 4 miles West of Ome Kergane bank, is the S.E. end of a half- moon-shaped rocky bank, on which the HADARAH ISLANDS are situated, and which extends from thence N.W. and N. about 7 miles. The Hadarah Islands are low and sandy, and covered with bushes, giving name to the bank on which they are situated. GAD HADARAH is a low sandy island, with an extensive reef lying N.W. and S.E. (true), having a channel between it and the north end of Hadarah bank, with 14 to 23 fathoms water. Nearly 3 miles East of Gad Hadarah is a similar island, on a reef that extends N.W. from it a short distance. Nearly 2 mUes E.S.E. from this island is a patch of 2 fathoms, and half a mUe S. by W., another of 1 and 3 fathoms, with a channel of 1 7 fathoms between ; and 2 miles East of the S.E. of Hadarah Island, is a patch of 1 fathom. UL GEREEF is an extensive rocky bank, full of dangerous patches, upwards of 8 miles in length. North and South, and 4 miles in breadth ; it lies 5 or 6 miles S.W. of the Hadaraii bank and 8 miles to the W.N.W. of Jeseeral Mogid. JESERAT GOOTNA lies about 9 miles W.N.W. (true) from the Hadarah Islands : its south point is in lat. 18° 271' N., from whence it extends nearly 5 miles North, and is nearly 2 miles wide in the broadest part. It is a low coral island, with bushes, and is surrounded by a reef which extends off nearly 3 miles to the S.E., with some large rocks above water, like small islands. The soundings to the eastward of it are 30 and 35 fathoms, mud, decreasing gradually to the coast. The other sides have deep water. Jibbel Sabyar JIBBEL SABYAR is 2 miles North of Jeserat Gootna, and is about 2 miles square and 60 feet high. Island. sloping a Uttle at the top, towards its rugged sides. On its western side is a village of fishermen's huts. Ferandeer N. by W. i W. (true) nearly 5 miles from Jibbel Sabyar, are the FERANDEER ISLANDS, which are two Islands. small oblong, irregular, table-topped, black rocks, about 40 feet high, situated upon the outer reefs ; and Dubarah N.N.W. (true), about 5 miles from these rocks, is the low sandy island DUBARAH. '*'*■"'• Between the Ferandeer Islands and Jibbel Sabyar, between Jibbel Sabyar and Jeseerat Gootna, and between the latter and Ul Gereef Bank, there are said to be intricate channels, leading to the West and S.W. to sea, passing between sand-banks and dangerous patches of sunken rocks ; but the pilot refused to take the sur- veying ship. By a single glance at the chart, it will be readily seen that there is not any safe or proper channel that ships could attempt. Rocky Shoals. Due East from Ferandeer, about 6 miles, or nearly in mid-channel, is the south end of some rocky shoals, which extend to the northward about 4 miles, the north part being about 3 mUes off the coast : they are in broken ridges, having some parts above water; and to the West of these, 2 and 3 mUes, are three rocky patches. Three or four mUes to the S.W. of Undareh, are some dry reefs, to the N.E. of which is UNDA- Undarch Reef. REH REEF, which shelters the anchorage. The Moolgamaree and Ummusseefah Islands, and neighbouring patches, have been before mentioned : all these patches are easUy discerned. N.E., 2 miles from Ummusseefah Island, is a rocky patch, with 15 fathoms between ; and from 1 to 3 mUes West, and W. by S. from Coomfidah Island, are three rocky patches. There are also several patches and low islands extending 4 miles to the South of Coomfidah : some of these are about a mUe from shore, with from 6 to 12 fathoms between them and the coast reef. RED SEA. — EAST SIDE — ISLANDS. 319 THE COAST OF THE HEDJAZ FROM COOMFIDAH TO LEET, WITH THE ISLANDS AND SHOALS ON THE INNER EDGE OF THE OUTER REEF, FORMING THE INNER CHANNEL. From Coomfidah the coast runs north and north-westerly to Has Mutweer, a distance of 13 miles N.N.W., Ras Muiweer. having several rocky patches and low islands between, at 1 to 2 miles from the coast. At 9 to 12 miles from Coomfidah are some patches in mid-channel, and to the westward of it. S.W. (true) about IrJ miles from Raa Mutweer is the north end of a reef, which extends 2 J mUes S.S.E., having two small islands upon it; and the coast reef runs off west 2 miles from the Ras, forming a point with 6 fathoms at its extremity, whence it runs North and joins the coast. Between this and the reef last mentioned is a channel, a mUe wide, with 5 and 6 fathoms on it ; the channel to the westward of the reef, between it and the Farrar Islands, is 4 miles wide, with 12 fathoms on it, and at Coomfidah it is 8 miles wide, with 18 to 20 fathoms. The south end of the FARRAR ISLANDS is in latitude 19°17'N. distant 5 J miles from the coast; they Farrar IslancU. thence extend 13 miles in a N.N.W. (true) direction, and are all low sandy islands, with a few bushes, situated in the eastern edge of the outer reefs, and form the western boundary of the Inner Channel. To the southward of these islands the edge of the reef is marked by rocks and rocky patches, with 18 to 20 fathoms close to it. The CUFFEEL ISLANDS are next to the Farrars, and are of a similar description, and similarly situated on the Cufieel Islands, inner edge of the bank ; they form a segment of a circle from W.N.W. to N. by W. (true), 9 miles. From Ras Mutweer to Ras Mahasin it is 21 miles N.W. by N. (true) ; this is a long point or tongue of land Ras Mahasin. running out to N. W., and is 5 miles N.E. by N. (true) from the North extreme of the CufFeel Islands. The coast between these places runs North and N.W. from Ras Mutweer about 11 miles to DOGAR. At this place Dogar. there is good anchorage in 5 fathoms to the eastward of a small patch which forms the roadstead. Here are a Anchorage, few huts, and the inhabitants are civil, but no fresh water to be obtained. Two reefs lie to the West and South of Dogar, extending about 5 miles S. S.E. (true) with some small islands on them; they are from 1 to 2 miles off shore, and there are 6 and 7 fathoms between them and the coast reef. Some patches lie N.N. W. of them, and from these others extend westward, with 6 to 8 fathoms between them to near mid-channel, where there are two small islands, with 12 fathoms close to the S.W. of them; these are about 2 miles S.W. (true) of Ras Ras Zoogabe. Zoogabe. There is a reef to the North of these islands. N. by W. 2^ (true) miles from them, and S. by E. 2^ miles from Ras Mahasin, is a small island with a reef running west 1 mile from it. The channel is to the Ras Mahasin. westward of all these islands and reefs, is nearly 4 miles wide, and has from 12 to 9 and 17 fathoms on it. It is 7 mUes from Ras Mahasin to that of El Hummar, a tongue of land running southward, and with ei Hummar. the former forms a bight or bay in the coast, bordered throughout with a reef. In the mouth of this bay is an island, about 3 mUes long North and South ; and reefs and patches, with channels between them, extending from its North end to the north point of the bay. There are also reefs and patches on the east side of the island in the bay ; and off its south end and west side there are numerous reefs and rocky patches, with deep- water chEuinels between, extending across the channel to Serrane Island, a distance of 5 miles. SERRANE ISLAND is high with an irregular top, about 7 miles long and 1 broad; it is surrounded by a Serrane Island, broad reef of madrepores, and some patches on the S.E. part, which forms the inner boundary of the outer reefs. It consists of madrepores and sand, and is not inhabited, there being neither water nor wood. There are some patches to the S.E. of it on the edge of the reef, which here bends to the South, and joins the CufFeel Islands. There are 19 fathoms close to the N.E. of Serrane, and S.E. (true) of it is a patch close to the reef, between which and another to the N. E. of it about a mUe (of those before spoken of) is the best channel. From the east end of Serrane, the edge of the reef, studded with patches and rocks, runs N.N.W. (true) about 10 mUes to the S.E. end of JENNARBET ISLAND, about 2 miles in length, very narrow, and sur- jennarbet rounded by a reef; a similar island, about half its length, lies to the N.E. of it, also surrounded by a reef, both Island, are low and bushy. N.W. ^ N., 8 (true) mUes from Ras el Hummar, is RAS EL ASKAR, and 5| mUes further on the same bearing is GiUargin, the coast being bordered with a coral reef throughout the whole extent. About W.N.W. (true) 2 mUes from Ras el Hummar, and about mid-channel, is a small island, surrounded with a shoal, with 15 fathoms on its S.W. side, and a patch about a mile to the westward of it. About -} and 1^ mUes N. by W. (true) from this small island are two others, of a similar description ; and between the northernmost and the smaU island N.E. of Jennarbet is a small island, also surrounded with a reef, having a channel between, with 15 fathoms on it. Off the N.E. side of the small island eastward of Jennarbet are two small islands, with reefs round them. The outer reef hereabout approaches nearer to the coast than it does farther southward. An extensive reef between forms two channels ; that nearest the coast, the narrowest, being in one part, opposite Ras el Askar, only 400 yards broad, with a depth of 5 fathoms. RAS EL ASKAR may be known by having trees on its Ras el Askar. points, there being no others on the shore near it. 320 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. Inner and Outer Chan- neU. Directions for the Inner Channel. Gillargin. Raker. Shab Wulthar. Anchorages at Leet. Aga Island. Leet Town. Jibbel Dogger. Jibbel Shager. Gose Abole Ire. From Jennar- bet north-west- ward. Aboolaad Island. This Inner Channel is considered the safest, as the shoals can be much better seen than in the outer one, althou"-h the outer one is almost always used when the wind is to the westward, as by going through the inner one, they would, in all probability, have to tack to clear the coast, and regain the centre of the channel. In i^oino' through either of these channels it requires a good look-out, and coming from the southwcird, the extensive reef in patches that separates the channels vi'iU be seen, and the sand-bank on the South part of it ; these will be a good guide to judge your distance from the patches forming the West side of the Outer Channel, on which the least water found was 3 fathoms. If o-oing through the Inner Channel, pass in between the sand-bank just mentioned and an island S.E. of it, taking care to avoid a shoal of 2 fathoms in this channel about half a mile off the island, with 13 fathoms close to it ; or pass inside the island, keeping a good look-out for the patches off them, where the least water found was 3 fathoms. The clusters of patches forming the two channels of Ras el Askar have deep water between, and on many of them there are 2, 3, and 4 fathoms. GILLARGIN has good anchorage in 10, 9, or 8 fathoms, mud : going in from the N.W., after passing Shab el Muthar, hereafter mentioned, steer for the point of the reef off the entrance, and leave all the sunken patches that are visible on the left hand in passing them. At this place there is neither house nor hut. RAKER lies N.W. ^ N. (true) about 8^ miles firom the point of Gillargin, the coast betvpeen forming a bight, bordered with a coral reef, in which are several patches of 3 and 4 fathoms with 20 and 24 between them. Raker will be known by the high sand-hills close to the beach to the eastward of it : it has good anchorage formed in a bight of the coast reef, in 4 fathoms, mud, well protected. The reef here extends nearly 2 miles from the coast, and there are some rocky patches off the entrance, and also an extensive shoal in patches from S. by E. to S.W. (true) of it, called SHAB MULTHAR, nearly a mile off the coast reef ; and there are other patches S. and S.E. (true) of it. It is 13 miles N.W. by W. and N.W. by N. from Raker to Leet, and for more than half the distance the coast reef extends more than 2 miles off, after which its breadth decreases to about half a mile, with some patches off it, and 6 to 10 fathoms at a short distance from it. The anchorages of LEET are formed and sheltered by patches, the largest of which is fuU 3 miles to the south-westward. A vessel going to Raker, and being just outside this patch, should first steer out about S. 40° E. (true) for 7 miles, taking care not to get into less than 14 fathoms, to avoid the extensive patches off the shore reef; and when to the South of these, a S. 80° E. (true) course for 5 or 6 miles will carry her to the entrance of Raker ; but the soundings are very irregular, from 12 to 5 fathoms, rocks. LEET. — The inner anchorage is small, but is well protected by the two reefs off it, between which is the best entrance : the depths are from 4 to 6 fathoms, mud. In leaving this place, if going to the southward of the eastern patch, it will be necessary to luff close round its point to the south-westward, to avoid many dan- gerous patches off the shore reef. The best anchorage in the outer road is to the S.S.W. (true) of Aga Island, where there is 10, 12, and 14 fathoms water, mud. About H miles to the S.W. (tt-ue) of Leet is an extensive reef of innumerable patches, with a channel on either side of it. AGA ISLAND is to the West of Leet anchorage, and is a small sandy island. The town of Leet consists chiefly of huts with a few mud buildings, and is situated to the S.E. of the inner anchorage, about 1 mile from the beach. Fresh water can be procured at that distance, but other supplies are very scarce. DESCRIPTION of the interior land between Leet and Coomfidah. — Jibbel Dogger is a most remarkable piece of land, on the highest range of mountains to the northward of Coomfidah : in that direction it runs off to a peak, but its North extremity forms more like a quoin, the thickest part of which is to the north. Jibbel Shager, or South Peak, is a remarkable piece of land, on the second range to the N.W. of Jibbel Dogar. GOSE ABOLE IRE is in the highest range of mountains to the Eastward of Coomfidah ; its northern brow forms a high mound until well to the southward, where it becomes rugged : its south brow has a small but conspicuous peak. This mountain may be seen to the northward of Ras el Askar. Having completed the description of the coast and reefs as far as Leet, we will return to Jennarbet Island, and continue the inner edge of the outer reef. From Jennarbet the reef runs in a curve to N.W. and N. about 6 miles, and there forms a large round reef, with two patches on it, bearing N.W. by N. from the east end of that island. It there forms the N.W. end of the West channel off Ras el Askar, having in it 12 fathoms. From this part the reef turns away N.W. by W. (true) 6 or 7 miles, having rocky patches close to its edge, and from thence W.N.W. and W.N.W. \ W. (trtte) to its north extremity, where there is a rocky patch 10 miles S.W. by W. from Aga Island. All along this space there are many rocky patches, and deep water on the edge of the reef, but no passage through to seaward. About 3 mUes within the edge of the reef is ABOOLAAD Island, in lat. 19° 58' N. nearly 12 miles S.S.W. i W. (true) from Leet anchorage. JIBBEL ABOOLAAD, or ABOOLAAD Island, is 2i miles long, in a N.W. and S.E. direction, three RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. 321 quarters of a mile broad, and 250 to 300 feet liigh, and surrounded by a sandy plain. It is quite barren, and destitute of water : branches of coral are observable sticking; out of its higjliest parts. There is a small port for fishing boats on the west side ; and beyond it, breaking reefs in that direction as far as can be seen from the top of the island. There are also several rocky patches near the edge of the reef to the northward of the island. Having completed the Inner Channel, so far as Leet and the N.W. end of the Outer Reef, we will return to the southward and commence with the Patches, Shabs, and Islands, on and near the outer edge of the outer reef, observing that the Chart must be the princii)al guide as to th.cir position, as many of them arc without names. Thirteen miles West from Mummarle Segger, heretofore described, and N. 10° E. (true), 9 miles from Mutterhane rocks, is a shoal patch, with 90 fathoms close to the west side. N.N.E. (true) 2.^ miles from this patch is the South end of a long shoal, with 5 and 4 fathoms, extending 8 miles North, 1 J miles wide, with 12 to 5 fathoms on its north end, which is about 9 mUes West of Mutbarhanc. About 2 miles S.E. of this is another long shoal. There are 5 patches, of 3 to 5 fathoms, lying from 7 to l.'j miles to the northward of the extremity of the dangerous patches on the N.W. part of Shab Farsan. S.E. J S. to S. j E. of Simmer Island, from 9 to 15 miles, are several rocky patches with deep water near them ; and about S.W. ^ S. from the same island, 24 to 26 miles, is a cluster of rocky patches, and some with 2 and 3 fathoms on them ; and to the westward of these, from 3 to 7 miles, are others, with 3 to 4 fathoms on them. S.W., 22 miles from Simmer Island, are two rocky patches, with no bottom, at 25 fathoms between them ; and 130 fathoms, mud, at 2 miles to the N.E. On the same bearing, 14 miles from Simmer Island, is another patch ; and other clusters lie S.W. by W. and W.S.W., at 10 to 15 miles from the same island. S. 76° W. (true) distant 27 miles from Simmer Island, is the southernmost of the Wussaleat Islands, in latitude 17° 40' N., and long. 41° 0' E., the other lies North 2 miles from it, both low and sandy, with the remains of an old hut on one of them : they are situated upon a sand and coral bank 4 miles in length, and nearly 2 in breadth. These are the first islands met with near the outer edge of the reef, to the northward of Shab Farsan. S.W. 5J miles from the south island, is a rocky patch, called SHAB EL JUK- MAH, and 3 miles S. by E. of the island is a 2-fathoms patch, with 28 fathoms between. Shab El Jurmah is within 5 miles of the edge of the reef. West 5 miles from the north Wussaleat Island is a dangerous rocky patch. W. by N. 14 miles from Simmer Island is DAHRET SIMMER Island, surrounded by a reef, with 7 fathoms close to the North of it. At 2| miles S.W. is a rocky shoal 2 miles long, with 1 fathom on it, and 20 fathoms close to its north end ; and W. by N. 1^ miles is a similar shoal of 1 fathom. S. 64° W. (true), 9 miles from Dahret Simmer is a rocky shoal, also one 1§ miles North of the island, and 4 miles N. by E. is another, having a channel between, with IS to 25 fathoms. At 10 miles N.E. by N. from the same island is a rocky shoal, with 6 fathoms on its South end : and 4| miles N.W. | W. from the island is a large rocky shoal, which has 2 fathoms on it and no bottom, with 105 fathoms of line close to its east side ; N. by E. from it, about 2 miles, is another shoal about 2 miles long N.N.W. ; between these there are 42 fathoms, and W. by N. from the latter 11 miles is a rocky patch, with 38 fathoms between them: W. by N. | N. 3^ miles farther is a cluster of rocks, with 115 and 118 fathoms to the West, and 30 and 40 fathoms to the East, of them. The 118 fathoms just mentioned is close to the eastward of an extensive shoal of sharp pointed rocks, with deep water between them, and no bottom, at 50 fathoms close to the west side. From Dahret Simmer to the easternmost of two small sandy Islands, called DAHRET MERAY, it is N.W. by N. 13 miles; this is surrounded by a reef, the other is 2 miles further West, and there is a rocky patch between them. There are also patches of rocks to the southward of both, and 4 miles S.M'. of the westernmost is the shoal of sharp pointed rocks just spoken of. E. by N. -^ N. 6 miles from the eastern Dahrat Meray, and S.W. ^ W. 14 miles from Jeseeral Mogid, is a rocky shoal about 3 miles long in the latter direction, with 6 to 14 fathoms on its west end ; and N.E. and S.W. of it, distant 3 miles each way, are two rocky patches, with 28 fathoms between, and no bottom at 50 fathoms to the North of the north-westernmost. From the eastern Dahrat Meray to Zuggak is 12 miles N. 84° W. and S. 50° E. (true), 3 miles from it is DAH- RET ABOO MUSSALAH. The latter is a very small sand-bank or island — the former is something larger, and either a sand-bank or a small sandy island ; they are both low, and have not a bush upon them. Between these two islands is the north part of SHAB MARASS, on which the water breaks ; it extends from thence 8 or 9 miles to the southward, and is from half to three quarters of a mile broad ; there are some parts where it may be crossed, but the south end breaks, and has 15 fathoms close to its east side : farther North, there is no bottom at 50 fathoms. From three quarters of a mile to one mile and a half to the N.E. of the north point of Shab Marass are two small breaking patches ; the southernmost, called SHAB URBEED, has 109 fathoms alongside of it. Between the N.W. point of Shab Marass and Zuggak Island is a one-fathom patch, and to the W.N.W. of Zuggak, from 1 to 1^ miles, is also a sunken patch of 1 fathom : on the western part, close to Zuggak, there are 115 fathoms. S.W. by W., at 3 and 5 miles from Zuggak, are two patches of rocks, and S.W. J S., 4 miles from it, is another. Between W. by N. and S.W. by W. of the breakers on the south end of Shab Marass, at 5, 6^, and S| miles' distance, are five rocky patches, and at 9 miles on the latter bearing is a patch of 5 fathoms. There is also a patch S. by W. 5 miles from the same breakers. 2t Various namc- U'SB Rocky Slioals and Patches. Wussaleat Islands. ShabclJurmali. Dahret Simmer Island. Diihrct Meray Island. Zuggak and Dahret Aboo MussaUih Islands. Shab Marass. Shab Urbeed. 322 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. Shab AlH. El Elhallah. Eloom, Mu. prabeah, and Sabecah Islands. Dorish Island. Aboo Dahrah, and Gebarah Islands. Aboo Sayel. Abbool Gul- lour. Sharbane Island. SHAB ALLI is a long breaking reef 8 miles N.E. by E. of Zuggak, and there is another breaking patch 5J miles W. by N. from it. N.N.E. of the latter, 2^ miles, is a reef; and N.E. of the former, 2 miles, is another, with 14 fathoms close to the northward of it, and no bottom with 35 fathoms to the East of it. From Zuggak to El Elhallah it is N.N.W. 10 miles, and thence to Eloom N.N.E. 3 miles; MUGRABEAH lies about midway between, and East of it about 2 miles is SABEEAH. The first of these is a sand-bank ; the other three are small low islands of coral and sand, with no ground at 45 and 80 fathoms in their vicinity. To the N.E. of these islands a low sand-bank and two reefs were seen from the mast-head, and beyond them nothing but shoals. DOllISH is a low sandy island, with bushes on it, upon a coral reef, with no bottom at 40 fathoms close to the S.E. of it. N.E. by E. I E. about 9 miles from Dorish is Aboo Dahrah, and 4| miles E. by S. from it is Gebarah, both small islands, and surrounded with shoals and rocky dangers, wliich preclude the possibility of a passage. From Dorish to the South end of Aboo Sayel it is 8 miles N.N.E.; this is a narrow perpendicular reef of breakers extending 5 or 6 miles northward, and to the eastward of it 6 or 7 miles are other dangerous reefs. N.N.W. about 9 miles from the same island is Abbool GuUour, a narrow breaking reef, about 3 miles in length, N.W. and S.E. To the northward of this last is SHARBANE ISLAND, 13 mdes N. J W. of Dorish. Sharbane is a small low island composed of sand and coral, with some bushes on it, and the remains of a fisher- man's hut built of stones. It is in lat. 18° 43' N., Ion. 40° 43' E. Mooskka. Island. Tedgar Island. Doshaggea Island. Shaker Island. Shab Harass. Ring Reef. Marrar-but-el Khyle Shoals. Shab Umbar- rack. MOOSKKA ISLAND is about 8 miles north of Sharbane, and 5 miles farther North is Tedgar. Mooskka is a small low island, situated upon a coral reef, and no bottom at 50 fathoms close to it. Tedgar is also a small low island with some bushes upon it, and a long reef oft' its south end : there is no bottom at 50 fathoms between it and Mooskka. There is a breaking reef 8 miles N.W. of Tedgar, another at 4 miles N. by E. from it, and a third at 2 miles to the N.E. Doshaggea is a small low island, E. by S. ^ S., distant 6 miles from Tedgar. N.W. by N., distant 26 miles from Dorish, is SHAKER Island, in lat. 18°52l'N., longitude 40° 30' E. This is a small, low sandy island, with some bushes upon it, situated on a coral reef, and there is no ground at 120 fathoms close to its north point ; half a mile to the westward of it is the north end of SHAB MARASS, a breaking shoal, which extends 2i miles S.S.W. : there is no ground at 70 fathoms between them. Five miles N. by W. from Shaker is a ring reef of coral of about 2 miles across, with water breaking aU round the edges, and apparently deep water inside. N.N.W. 2g miles from this is the East end of a narrow breaking reef, which extends about 3| miles W.N.W. ; and 4 miles >f.W. by W. ^ W. is a breaking patch in latitude 19° N. This cluster is called the MARRAR-BUT-EL KHYLE Shoals. Thirteen miles W. by N. of the ring reef, also in the parallel of 19° N., is a breaking patch called SHAB UMBARRACK, which forms the outer part of the reefs in this neighbourhood. Eleven miles N. 10° W. (true) from Shab Umbarrack is a small shoal, with 1 fathom on it, and no ground at 145 fathoms close to it; and about 3 miles N.E. of it is a breaking coral reef, 4 miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E. Shab Assugga. Jebbarrab and Dahnac Islands. Shab el Mul- thar, el Maha- thun, and el Jebbarah. Shabs Amar, Shyir Assabar, and El Girb. Mutatoo, Do- harah, Alur. mah, and Jed- dere Islands. Shab Assubb. Shab Genab. Shabs Soolaim and Shubbuck. SHAB ASSUGGA is a low rocky coral island on a reef, lying about N.N.W. 7 or 8 miles from the breaking coral reef last-mentioned, and near the outer edge of the reefs having no ground at 105 fathoms close to it. N.N.W. 4 miles from Shab Assugga is JEBBARRAH, a low coral island with no bottom at 105 fathoms close to it. DAHNAC is a low coral island surrounded by a reef, and no bottom close to, at 130 fathoms ; it lies 5 miles N. by W. J W. from Jebbarah, and both are surrounded by reefs. Two miles N.W. of Jebbarah is SHAB EL MULTHAR, and at the same distance N.E. is SHAB EL MAHATHUN, with a small sand-bank on it, and 4 miles N.E. is SHAB EL JEBBARAH. One mile and a half S.E. of Dahnac is a shoal patch, at the same distance N.E. is a breaking patch, and to the N. by W. 2J miles, is a half moon reef called SHAB AMAR, with 6 and 8 fathoms off its eastern verge. N. ^ E. 5^ miles is SHAB SHYIR, and one mile N.W. of it is SHAB ASSABAR, to the N.E. of which, 1^ miles, is another ; and N.E. by N. from Dahnac 5 miles, is SHAB EL GIRB. Within or to the eastward of this cluster, it appears from the mast-head, full of shoals. N.N.W. A W. 16 miles from Dahnac is MUTATOO ISLAND, close to which there is no bottom at 130 fathoms ; and N. ^ E. from it Sj miles is Doharah, E. by N. from which 2 miles is Murmah. Jeddere is 2 miles E.N.E. of Mutatoo : these are four small sand and coral islands of little elevation above the sea : there is a small breaking patch half a mile N.W. of Mutatoo, and another S^ miles from Jeddere Island, the latter one called SHAB ASSUBB. From 2| to 5 miles from Doharah Island, and to the N. ^ E. of it, there are several patches ; the outermost and largest is called SHAB GENAB ; and between them and Aboolaad Island, before described, and to the N.E. of MURMAH ISLAND, are many sunken patches and two long breaking reefs, one named SHAB SOOLAIM, and the other SHAB SHUBBUCK, with deep water close to them. Mutatoo is in lat. 19° 45' N„ Ion. 40" 1' E., and on it are the remains of a fisherman's hut, and a considerable number of graves. RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. — JIDDAH. 323 THE COAST OF THE HEDJAZ FROM LEET TO JIDDAH, WITH THE REEFS AND SHOALS LYING OFF AND NEAR TO THE COAST. W. J N. from Leet, distant 8 miles, is the East point of SHAB EL JEFFINE, which extends from thence in SImb cl Jeffine. a W.N.W. direction, parallel to the long island, JESEERAT KISHRAN, in jiatchcs to between Summar and Kishran. The soundings are mud about the east point of this Shab, and a vessel can anchor on the inner part of its point, just to the soutlivvard of the discoloured water. A good mark for it is the second peak. SUMMAR is on the eastern side of the shoal, forming Kishran ancliorage, and has G fathoms mud. This Summar. anchorage is preferable to Kishran, which has a rocky bar at its entrance, with 2| fathoms on it ; the bar ajipears Kishran. to connect the coast reef off Kishran with a shoal to the eastward of it, b)' which the anchorage is formed, with 5 and 6 fathoms (mud) in it. In a S.W. wind, a heavy swell rolls into this place, and the surf breaks on the bar. Tower Hill bears N. 12°E. (true) from the entrance. MERKAT is 11 mUes N.W. J W. from Kishran : the anchorage is just to the South of the shoals off it, and Merkat. affords a little shelter from westerly winds. Marram is 8 miles N.W. ^ W. from Merkat, and W. \ S. from Marram. Tower Hill : the anchorage is bad, there being straggling rocks in it. A vessel wishing to stop here had better anchor outside the rocks off it. Abbooshoke is 34 miles N. 36° W. (true) from Marram : this place has excellent Abbooslioke. anchorage in 6 fathoms, but the entrance is very narrow between the reefs off it ; Jibbel Abbooshoke bears from this place N. 76° E. (true). Between Marram and Abbooshoke is Shedger, Amare, Soedah, Abboodoodah, Rug- guan, Shaybah, Bahair, Muctar Redgmah, Gooss, and Mustubbud. Three miles to the northward of Abbooshoke is GEEDAN, where there is anchorage, tolerably sheltered, in 4 fathoms, from westerly winds, but open to the Gcedan. southward. JIBBEL ABBOOSHOKE bears N. 87° E. (true) from this anchorage : it is a small two-knobbed hill, about 12 miles from the coast. Merser Goofs is only a small bight in the coast reef, about 8 miles to the S.E. Mcrser Goofs, of Geedan : the anchorage is in 11 fathoms, on rocky bottom, but affords no shelter. SAMAMA is 22 miles Saraama. N.N.W. from Geedan, and 14 miles to the southward of Jiddah. In the roads, Jiddah Senam peak is a little open to the northward of the Saddle. The anchorage affords tolerable shelter in 9 fathoms, mud. From Samama the coast trends about N. by W. J W. nearly 5 miles ; it then turns in north-eastward 1 h miles, and then suddenly to N. by W. 2 miles ; forming a low, sharp point, called lias ul Uswud, from which Jiddah bears Jiddah. N.N.E. 8 miles, and from Jiddah the coast trends N.W. § W. 3 miles to Ras Gahaize. Between these project- ing points the coast forms a bay, bordered with a reef, and in which are several others, forming various channels and anchorages. S.W. H miles from Ras ul Uswud is the little island JESEERAT GORAB, situated on the shore reef. DESCRIPTION of the Interior. — Jibbel Sardeeah is a remarkable peak on the highest part of the land in the Jibbel Sar- distant range to the N.E. of Marram : and a httle to the eastward of it is a peak, still more remarkable, by which dccah. it may be known. Sugar Loaf is a peaked mountain, its top forming three small peaks to the eastward of Kishran : it is in one with Sugar Loaf. Jibbel Sardeeah and Tower Hill. Tower Hill. — The range of hills from the northward converge towards the coast between Marram and Tower Hill. Kishran, and the Tower Hill is a httle inside the extreme of the range at Marram : it is a remarkable piece of broken land, not unhke a tower ; but off Kishran, and to the S.E. of it, it forms with a double rugged top, and appears much larger in this last direction: the piece of land outside of it forms two round hills. First and Second Peaks are South of Tower Hill : these at Marram are the highest peaks on two sloping mountains, like quoins : they both form with two peaks each. At Kishran there- is a peak on the second range, called West Peak : it is between the first peak and Tower West Peak. Hill ; and the second peak in this direction forms a round mo\md on the high land to the right of the first peak, with a peaked elevation on each side of it. JIDDAH is one of the most considerable places in the Red Sea ; it is in the province of the Hedjaz, jiddah. situated in a low, sandy, and extensive plain, in front of a range of hills 10 miles distant from the sea : the land further in the interior being considerably higher and mountainous. The town, with its minarets, being white, has an imposing effect from the sea ; it is enclosed by a wall half a mile square, \vith small towers at intervals, and the angles towards the sea are commanded by two forts, with about 10 embrasures each, but there are few guns mounted. In the North fort is a house, generally occupied by the officer in command of the troops ; the south forms in two octagons joined ; and in the northern part of it, which is the smallest octagon, stands the flag- staff. There are three entrances to the town on the sea side, of which the centre and only public one is that at the 2 t2 324 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. — JIDDAH, Jidda!) Harbour. jetty, but the others are allowed to be used occasionally. There is also a gate on each of the other sides ; that on the South is seldom opened ; the northern one is common to all ; but to the East is the Mecca gate, through which none but the professors of Islamism are allowed to pass. On the north side are three wind- mills, near which is an extensive tomb, asserted to be that of our mother Eve, and said to be fifty cubits long by twelve broad. The streets of this place are generally very narrow and irregular, and the houses are mostly composed of madrepore. There is an extensive bazaar, tolerably well supplied, and there is a bazaar- master, but strangers are charged exorbitantly. The only scarce article is biscuit. There is nothing considerable produced at Jiddah or in its vicinity as an article of trade, but from Suez they receive the most useful European The highest mosque in the town is in latitude 21° 28' 20" N., longitude 39° 15' 37" E., or 4° 1' 45" W. of Mocha. JIDDAH HARBOUR is, perhaps, the most extraordinary of any so called, as to its figure, and is so well protected from all seas thai there is comparatively smooth water whatever winds may blow. It lies in a North and South direction, the utmost breadth being 780 yards ; the narrowest part, facing the town, 340 yards, and the entrance to it, properly called the gateway, is 250 yards. This space is part of a streak or narrow channel, of irregular soundings, extending along the coast reef, which is bounded on the North by Ras el Gahaize, to the South by Ras el Uswud, and to the West by many breaking reefs, small islands, and sunken rocks, which have deep channels between them. The reefs to the westward of the harbour form in three clusters, containing innumerable patches, and running in a line parallel with the coast, stretching towards the two capes, whose dis- tance apart is 10 miles. On the south-western part of the outermost cluster of these reefs, and distant from them half a mile, is a dangerous patch of IJ and 2 fathoms, called Marrueeah; and 8 miles to the westward of the town is the outer extremity of a bank of rocks and sand, with shoal patches on it, which is the westernmost danger off this part, and is hereafter fully described. The tides are so influenced by the winds that it is impossible to establish a correct period for the time of high water. In December and January, when the place was surveyed, the greatest rise or fall on the springs was about two feet ; but in the hot months, during the northerly winds, when many of the banks are dry, there is less water by about three feet than during the southerly winds in the cold season. North Hill. Oomarrar. Sugar Loaf. Saddle Hill. Sonnam. Mosque. Flag.staff. Eastern Tower. DESCRIPTION OF THE HILLS, MINARET, AND OTHER MARKS USED IN THE DIRECTIONS FOR THIS PLACE. North Hill is a high hummock beliind the northern extreme of the near range of hills. Oomarrar is a rugged hill at the north extremity of the near range of hills ; it has something of the quoin shape, with its bluff to the N.W. ; when in one with the former hill, it bears S. 41° W. (true). Jibbel Yemeneer, or Sugar Loaf, so called from its resemblance thereto, when in one with the mosque, bears N. 74° E. (true). Jibbel Addar, or Saddle Hill, is the highest land about Jiddah, and in the centre of the range ; it is sunk in the middle with a North and South brow; the North is in one with the admiral's house on the N.W. extremity of the town, bearing E. 4° 30' N. (true). Sonnam is a small peak on the highest part of the near high land, on the south side of the bay, in one with Ras El Uswud and the Moosmaree reef, bears N. 80° E. (true). The Moosmaree is a breaking patch nearly 5 miles from the shore reef, and the same distance from the rocky bank, Marrueeah, bearing S.W. close to the West of Moosmaree ; there is no bottom at 120 fathoms. There are many mosques or minarets, but the most conspicuous one in the centre of the town is the one used, and when in one with the flag-staff, bears N. 52° E. (true). The flag-staff is planted in the fort at the S.W. angle of the town. The fort forms in two octagons, in the northernmost of which stands the flag-staff; the other part is called the South Octagon, and the centre of it is on with the mosque when in the middle of the inner gateway off the Berry reef. The Eastern Tower is a low white building on the S. E. extremity of the town wall, and is not much higher than it; when it is in one with the Sugar Loaf, it bears N. 72° E. (true). DESCRIPTION OF THE DANGERS, WITH THE MARKS FOR AVOIDING THEM. Rocky Bank. Thk westernmost, or Rocky Bank, is the outermost danger ; its centre is 7 miles S. 74° W. (true) from the great mosque. It is 2 miles in extent. North and South, and East and West about three miles. There are five rocky patches on it, namely, Ulfogarnee, Abboolyahood, and Abboolhodere ; they are in a line E. 24° S. (true), with channels from 9 to 17 fathoms between them. On the Ulfogarnee, the westernmost, there are 8 fathoms, on the centre one 2^, and on the easternmost 6 fathoms. The other two patches are the Aboo Nuckla and Ul RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. — JIDDAH. 325 Wustaxnee, which lie to the South of the otlier three nearly one mile, leaving a good channel between, with from 13 to 35 fathoms. On the first are 2| fathoms ; on the latter, 1 J fathoms in the hot season. JIDDAH HILL, N. 81° E., or the mosque just open to the right of the Sugar Loaf, bearing N. 74° E. (true), leads across the bank between the patches. The mosque just open to the North of the north brow of the Saddle, leads on the northernmost patches, but clearing open to the south of it just clears them ; or the Admiral's house on with the north brow of the Saddle, bearing .Marks. N. 85° E. (true), leads just clear of the bank to the northward. SADDLE HILL, N. 78° E. (true), or Sugar Loaf N. 69° E. (true), leads clear of the bank to the southward, and Oomarrar Hill, N. 31° E., clears it to the eastward. Oomarrar N. 30° E., or Moosmaree S. 30° W. (true) is the fair channel course to the eastward of the bank, and westward of the Marrueeali. The first or outer cluster of reefs consists of breaking patches, except the MARRUEEAH, which is a sunken Marrueali. patch of H and 2 fathoms, distant half a mile N. 50° W. (true) from the centre of the largest of the breaking patches on the south part of this line, called the Shaabaiic ; or it is S. 40° E. (true), upwards of 2,', miles from the Ul Wustarnee above mentioned. The eastern side of this line of reefs is connected by many sunken patches to p,rst or Outtr the second cluster. The northernmost patch of this range is called the Ghaham Reef, and from it the mosque cluster of bears N. 68° E. (true), distant 4,^ miles. The south extremities of this reef and of the second, stretch towards Ras Reefs- Ul Uswud, and form the northern boundary of the south channel. There is also a channel between the Mar- rueeali 1 J fathoms patch, and the breaking Shaabane reefs ; and when Oomarrar bears N. 23° E. (true), steering for it will conduct between the patches and carry the vessel a little to the westward of the outer gateway in the second cluster of reefs. The mark to clear Ghaham, the north end of the first or outer line of reefs, is the Eastern Tower on with the Sugar Loaf. The second or centre cluster of reefs, in which is the Outer Gateway, is more extensive than tlie former, and Second or Cen- is also in patches, with many channels between them ; but that preferred is through the Gateway, which is 270 yards broad, from which the flag-staff bears N. 58° E. (true) distant 3 miles. This Gateway is formed on the north side by the southernmost and largest of the Fellaha breaking shoals, with a sunken patch on its eastern end, with deep water between it and the large shoal, and on the south by dangerous sunken patches. When in the centre of this entrance a patch will bear (tnie) E. 40° S. distant 300 yards, which, with the other sunken patches on the south side, is to be avoided by passing along at about 100 yards from FELLAHA large breaking reef. After passing its south point, the course along it will be about N. 55° E. (true). There is a channel between the northern extremity of this second cluster of reefs and the coast reef oiF lias el Gahaize, and from thence to the South to the Inner Gateway. There is also a channel between the southern extremity of this second cluster of reefs, called Shab Marmood, and the coast reef off Ras el Uswud, and thence to the northward to the Inner Gateway. These two channels are constantly used by the buggalows : the Benares has been through them both. The entrance through the northern channel is similar to the Outer Gateway : that through the South chsuinel is half a mile wide throughout ; but there are overfalls in both. Ire Cluster of Reefs. Outer Gate- way. Third or Inner Cluster of Reefs. MARKS for the SECOND or CENTRE LINE of REEFS.— For the Outer Gateway, is the Mosque Sailing Marks, on with the outer angle of the Flag-staff Tower. For the South Channel, the North brow of the Saddle N. 71° E. (true) leads in clear of the south ends of the first and second clusters of reefs ; and having rounded Shab Mahmood, steer N. 8° E. (true) for the Inner Gateway. The third harbour, or inner cluster of reefs, in which is the Inner Gateway. This has channels for buggalows and small boats towards its north and south ends, and in tlie centre of the reef is the inner or Double Gateway, as it may be called, for it is formed by four shoals, the two outermost of which are breaking reefs ; that on the South is Abboo Harreet, and that on the north Beahree. Three hun- dred yards from them further in is Berry breaking reef, with a sunken patch off it on the northern side of the Gateway, and a sunken patch lies on the so\ith side, both of which may be seen by a good look-out. This entrance is 250 yards wide, and the flag-staff bears from it N. 60° E. (true), it is the only entrance in the cluster for ships. When in the centre of the Inner Gateway there are two patches of 1 and 2 fathoms, in a line with the Eastern Tower, bearing N. 66° E. (true) ; the nearest is only 500 yards from the entrance, and is off the end of Berry, as already mentioned, and not more than 70 yards from it. The second is a rock of 1 fathom, half a mile, or 1,000 yards off; it lies off the eastern side of Berry, and the passage is between them, lufiing round Berry reef to run up into the harbour ; the distance between them is not above 400 yards. There is also a third small patch, bearing from the Gateway N. 6P E. (true), distant 1,200 yards ; and a little to the North of this is a shoal 500 yards long, with 1 fathom on it. The MARKS for the THIRD or HARBOUR REEF.— The flag-staff a little open North of the Minaret Sailing Marks, leads to the Inner Gateway. For clearing the Berry sunken patch, the flag-staff 20 yards, or half a ship's length, open to the North of the Minaret, or the Minaret and the centre of the south octagon in one ; but the 326 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. — JIDDAH. Minaret must not be brought on with the southern extreme of the octagon, as that is on with the shoal that forms the southern part of the Gateway. BRIEF DIRECTIONS FOR APPROACHING AND ENTERING THE HARBOUR. On approaching within 30 miles of JIDDAH, the Saddle Hill will be seen, if the weather is clear ; when its north brow bears N. 81° E. (true) you will be off the harbour. In running up, get sight of the Moos- maree, but do not bring it to the westward of S. 7° W. (true) until you are sure of the above bearing of the Saddle. When the Mosque is on with the Sugar Loaf you may steer for them across the Rocky Bank between the shoals, which are easy to be seen. When clear of this bank, the course wiU be about East (true), 2 miles, which will take you to the GHAHAM breaking reef, and at 150 yards North of it, the Outer Gateway bears E. 4° S. (true), distant 1^ miles. On approaching it keep the Fellaha breaking reef on board, to clear the patches on the south side of the channel, one of which bears E. 4° S. (true) from the entrance, distant only 300 yards ; therefore, after passing the south point of Fellaha breaking reef, haul more to the northward to avoid them, but take care also to be clear of a sunken patch near the east end of Fellaha breaking reef. A true course N. 55° E. one mile should carry a ship along the large breaking reef, and the sunken patch oiF its east end, to the Inner Gateway. To avoid the patches within it, bear away to the eastward the moment you are within the narrow outer part of the Gateway, and the course wiU be about true N. 72° E., and bring the Flag- staff about 20 yards, or half a ship's length, open to the North of the Minaret before you reach the nearest shoal (the Berry sunken patch), keeping it on your larboard hand, and a sunken patch will be on your star- board hand, which forms the south side of the Channel of Berry. If the wind is at N.W., luff as close as you can with safety round the Berry sunken patch, close on the end of the Berry reef, as it is steep to and easy to be seen, and keep along the edge of the Berry reef to avoid the sunken rock 400 yards to the eastward of it, and the other two patches which are near the shore reef on the eastern side of the channel. But if the wind is southerly, the course up the harbour, after passing the Berry sunken patch, will be by compass about N.N.E., and ships may anchor with the Mosque from E. 12° N. to E. 12° S., in from 3| to 5, 6, and 7 fathoms. The latter bearing of the Mosque is where native ships always lie, and is the most convenient for boats going to the shore ; but it is just to the North of the narrowest part of the harbour. EXTRA REMARKS. If after getting off the Moosmaree reef you prefer passing within the outer rocky bank, refer to the description of that bank in the preceding account of it. Or, if it be found convenient to go through the South Channel, or only through its entrance, for anchorage, see the description of the Second Cluster of reefs, and remarks at the end of it. TO PASS THROUGH THE NORTH TURRUCK, COOZERMERE CHANNEL. Cooiermere The following directions are added for passing into the north of the second cluster of reefs, in case there Cliannel. should be a necessity for so doing; but there are alarming overfalls and patches in it, and a vessel would pro- bably be longer in clearing the reefs by going that way than by going through the second Gateway. Run in with the Mosque bearing S. 75° E. (true), or with JIBBEL WIDRI (a black conical hill to the left of Tennam Peak) on with the Admiral's house. Either of these marks will CEirry her in between GUTTAL OMUL HALLALA, DERGOEG, and RAS EL MUGGULAT REEFS. Having passed through these, haul a little to the South, about S. 50° E. (true), which will carry her through the Gateway formed by GUTTAL COOZERMERE and TOWWELAH reef towards ABOO HUMROON shoal; and when mid- way between the latter two, haul up about S. 18° E. (true), and keep a good look-out for a shoal patch, which should then be about half a point on the starboard bow, and which is in a line of S. 87° W. (true) from the great Mosque. Having passed this patch, steer true S. 8° E. for the Inner Gateway, and proceed in from thence, as already directed in coming from the southward. CONCLUSION. When off the Harbour of Jiddah, if in want of a pilot, make the signal with one or more guns, as necessary, and they will come out. In running in they are mostly guided by the eye, for the channels are so narrow, that the marks will be found of little use, except in approaching the place ; and towards noon is the best time for going in, as, owing to the transparency of the water, the sunken rocks then appear as a dark green shadow on the surface, but which rocks cannot be discovered until upon or close to them, when the sun is low to the east\vard, and there is much glare, or in thick, hazy, or cloudy weather. RED SEA.— EAST SIDE. 327 CONTINUATION OF THE OUTER REEFS FROM LEET TO JIDDAH. About 21 mUes S.S.W. (true) of SHAB EL JEFFINE anchorage, and about S.W. 7 miles from Kishran anchorage, there are some rocky patches with deep water close to them. The GAD AMAZE is the outer- GaJ Amaze, most cluster of breaking reefs, upwards of 2 miles in extent, in latitude 20*^ 15' N. They arc about IG miles S.W. by W. (true) from Marram; and between them and the north-western extremity of the extensive Outer reefs to the southward, there is an open channel leading in to the coast, towards Kishran and Leet. There are numerous shoals between Gad Amaze and Marram, and extending to the E.S. Eastward towards the coast at Merkat. The SHEDGER REEFS lie about 5 to 7 miles from the coast, with a channel between. Sbedgcr Retfs. Ten miles to the north-westward of these is the GUTTAH EL ABBOODOODA ; and to the N.W. of it Guttah el Ab. is the GUTTAH EL RUGGUAN and TOWEEL RUGGUAN, the last of which is a remarkable reef, two boodooda and miles long, and the farthest from the shore, being 7 miles oflf; so that, like Gad Amaze, it may be frequently 7u"n''i{eefs ^" seen by vessels proceeding up or down the sea. The ABBOOSHOKE reefs are about 16 miles north-westward of Guttah el Abboodooda ; and in this space, besides the Rugguan shoals just mentioned, are the BAHAIR, GUTTAH EL SHAYBAH, MUG- GERADEEB, GUTTAH EL GOOFS, and MUSTUBBUD reefs and patches. Between the reefs in this space there are channels, but very difficult ones, and the shoals are so numerous, that they may be considered as forming a connected line of shoals, and ships ought not to attempt to cross them. At 11 and 13 miles farther is the GUTTAH GEEDAN and GUTTAH TUTTEFAH reef; and in this space is an open channel to the coast — the latter is only 4 miles off shore. N.W., about 6 miles from Guttah Tuttefah reef, is the ULEUSSER ELYEMMARNEER, and in this space is an open channel to the coast. From Uleusser Elyemmarneer to Uleusser Shamier is about 4 miles N.N.W. (true), and to the northward of the latter, 2 miles, is a cluster of three or four, called Cobane. These are all breaking shoals, at five to nine miles from the shore, with deep channels between ; the Benares having worked among them, and between them and the shore. N. by W., about 4 miles from Cobane, is a reef called URGO GORAB, with no bottom at 120 fathoms close to the westward of it; and 4i miles farther is another reef, called MOOSMAREE, lying nearly 5 miles westward of the Coast reef ; there is no bottom at 1 20 fathoms close to the westward of it. These are both breaking reefs, and require particular attention when proceeding to or from Jiddah. Abbooshoke Reefs. lialuir, Gutuli el Shaybah, Muggcradceb, Gutlah el Goofs, and Musiubbud Reefs and Patches. Guttat) Gecdan and Guttab Tuttefah Reefs. Uleusser Ely- emmarneer Reef. Uleusser Sha- mier and Co- bane Reefs. THE INNER CHANNEL, FROM CAMARAN ISLAND TO LEET. The Inner Channel, from Camaran to Leet, is bounded on the western side by numerous islands, rocks, and rocky patches, profusely scattered on and about the inner edge of the Outer Reef, and on the eastern side by the coast, which is bordered by a reef nearly throughout the whole extent, in which are several breaks, and some of them form secure anchorages. The south end commences at Camaran, where it is only 700 yards wide between Camaran reef and Ras el Bayath, and is nearest to the latter ; from thence its breadth increases to about 2 miles, until at the narrow part between Humreek Island and the Coast reef South of Loheia : the patches at 4 to 6 miles southward of Humreek may be passed on either side. The channel from Loheia increases in breadth to 2 mUes or more, until opposite RAS MUSSAHRIB, where it is rather less than two miles : the soundings are moderate, and will be best understood by looking at tiie chart. Passing Ras Mussahrib, it increases in breadth to 4 miles between Toag Island and the coast, and also within ASHIG ISLAND reef, beyond the north end of which it is 10 miles wide, and so continues until be- tween DAHRET JAFFREE and the Coast reef, where the breadth is reduced to less than 5 miles, and further on to less than 4 miles, between Omel Currip and the Coast reef oflt Gheesan, and so continues as far as Ras Toorfah. Between SHOORAH and the main the breadth of the channel is little more than 2 miles ; but after passing THERAN, where its breadth is 7 miles, it increases to 10 and 12^ miles, till abreast of ABOO LELF Island it is again contracted to 4 miles, between the south end of the reef extending from JESEERAL MOGID Island and a projecting reef from the shore; and 9 miles farther it is only IJ miles wide, between the north end of that reef and the reef off NAHOOD. Farther on, between the bank called OiME KERGANE and the Coast reef between Nahood and Ernege, the channel is little more than a mile wide. The patch off the north end of that bank may be passed on either side, and a course steered to pass at 1 J or 2 miles to the West of Halli point and Ras el Aboo Kalbe. Hereabout are some reefs nearly in mid-channel, which may be passed on either side, as most convenient, always observing to keep a good look-out. If it be deemed advisable to pass to the east- ward of these reefs, it will be best to sail through Undareh Roads, as good anchorage will be found there, if 328 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. necessary. Having passed Undareh and Ras Abboo Mutnah, the best channel northward is between the Moolgamarree and Ummusseefah Islands and the main to abreast of Coomfidah ; or if more convenient to pass between these islands, care must be taken to avoid the rocky shoals in their vicinity. At Coomfidah tlie channel is 8 miles broad, with IS and 20 fathoms water. A course may be steered from abreast of Coomfidah, about N.W. } N. (true), towards the south end of the Farrar Islands, observing that the inner edge of the Outer Reef to the southward of the islands is marked by rocks and rocky patches, with deep water close to. By passing near this edge, the patches lying about 3 miles to the south-eastward of the islands will be avoided. The Farrar and Cuifeel Islands mark the west edge of the channel, and may be passed at a moderate distance ; and, should it be necessary, good anchorage may be found at Dogar. Having passed the CUFFEEL ISLANDS, reefs and rocky patches continue to mark the edge of the Outer Reef to abreast of Serrane Island, oflf the east end of which are two patches ; between these patches is the best channel, about one mile wide, and from thence, still by the edge of the reef about N.N.W. {true), to the S.E. end of JENNERBET, and the small island to the East of it. Beyond these begins an extensive reef, near the middle, forming two channels, that near the coast being about 400 yards wide, with 5 fathoms in it. This is considered to be the best ; but the western one is wider. Either may be used, as most convenient, according to the direction of the wind ; but a strict look-out for the shoal patches is absolutely necessary, particularly in the western channel. Oft" Gillargin the channel is two miles broad ; and at this place good anchorage may be had, if necessary. From hence to Leet the coast is entirely bordered by a reef; and there are several patches scattered about in mid-channel, leaving a clear space of only 2 miles between them and the Outer Reef. RAKER has a good anchorage, which may be taken if necessary. Directions for it, and also for Leet, will be found in page 320. Eliza Slioals. Guttah Degaize. Shab ul Kebeer. A boo Farhra- mish. Aboo Murda- fer, or northern Ebza Reef. Inner Channel between the Eliza Reefs and shore. Anchorage. Sherm Oub- lioor. THE COAST OF ARABIA FROiAl JIDDAH TO TIRAHN ISLAND, AND THENCE TO RAS MAHOMMED, From Ras Gahaize the coast runs northward, about 11 miles to SHERM OUBHOOR, which runs in north- eastward 5 miles. At 4 miles North of the Ras the coast reef ceases, and the shore is bold, there being no bottom at 70 fathoms, within a mile of it. From Sherm Oubhoor the coast turns to N.W. and N.N.W. {true) 14 miles to RAS DAHLIMAR, and thence N. J W. 6 mUes to RAS HARTEBAH, in lat. 22° 0' N. and longitude 39° 0' E. N.N.W. i W. {true), 9 miles from Ras Gahaize, is the S.E. point of the Eliza Shoals, from whence the inner or eastern edge trends about N.N.W. ^ W. and N.W. by N. about 21 miles to abreast of Ras Hartebah, form- ing the west side of a deep channel, of 2 to 3 miles wide, between it and the coast. From 5 to 6 miles about W.S.W. (true) from Ras Hartebah, and on the inner edge of these shoals, is a large patch of reefs and deep water, called GUTTAH DEGAIZE. About 10 miles W.S.W. westerly from the S.E. point, is the S.W. point of this extensive bank, in latitude 21° 37^' N., and bearing W.N.W. (true) 15 miles from Ras Gahaize. About 3 miles N.W. from this point, and on the western edge, is a reef about 3 miles in length in the same direction, called SHAB UL KEBEER, with no bottom at 70 fathoms close to its west side. All the S.W. and south part of these shoals have breaking rocky reefs, with deep water close to them. Reefs and shallow patches extend also to the N. by W. from Shab ul Kebeer, and about N.W. by N., 11 or 12 miles from it, also on the edge of the bank, is another reef, in a north and south direction, called ABOO FARHRAMISH, near which is good anchorage, in lat. about 21° 52' N. From hence the west edge of the shoal takes a north direction to its N.W. point, where there is a reef called ABOO IVIURDAFER, where there is good anchorage, sheltered from N.W. winds. This is the northern Ehza Reef; its west end is in latitude 22° 2'N., and longitude 38°4S'E., from whence it extends 3 or 4 miles in a N.E. by E. ^ E. (true) direction, in a narrow line. A ship from the northward, if a good look-out be kept, may with safety take advantage of the Inner Channel already mentioned, between the Eliza Reefs and the low sandy coast fronting them, it being from 2 to 3 miles wide, with no bottom at 60 and 70 fathoms, and both sides bold to. Should night come on before a ship is through this channel, she may haul a little to the westward, and anchor as most convenient under the lee of any of the reefs, keeping in mind that the range of reefs which form the west side of this channel, where anchor- age may be had, terminate in latitude 21° 46' N., when two remarkable hills with peaks on them, called the Sisters, which form the northernmost high land near the coast, bear about E. or E. by S. To the southward of this, 6 miles, are only a few patches, which do not afford good anchorage from N.W. winds. The northern entrance to this channel lies close to the west end of the northern Eliza Reefs, ABOO MURDAFER. A course S. 65° E. 8 (true) miles, with soundings from 20 to 40 fathoms, will lead into the channel ; when you have no soundings, a course may be thus steered close along shore, to the reefs of Jiddah. In passing close along the coast, the Inlet, called in tlie old charts Charles River, but by the Arabs, Sherm Oubhoor, will be observed, which is in an extensive inlet of the sea. The entrance is narrow, and so it continues some distance up, with soundings from 18 to 25 fathoms in it, and then widens into some beautiful bays: but it would not be prudent to anchor here, it being difficult to quit with a light land-wind, if there is any swell at the entrance, which is generally the case after hard N.W. winds. In other respects, vessels may lie quite land-locked RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. 329 inside, \vith scarcely space to swing, except in the upper part, which is distant from Jiddah Mosque 14 miles. From Ras Hartebah the coast trends N.N.E. J E. 21 miles to RAS MALUK, a low sandy point, forming between them various Merzas of considerable extent, but difficult to approach, on account of the numerous reefs and shoals with which all this part of the coast is bordered, extending from 6 to 8 miles from shore ; there are, however, some channels among them. A channel lies close to the west side of HEYGA, a low sandy island, which is 3 miles N. by E. (true) of lias Hartebah, and it leads out again into a large channel 5 miles to the northward of HARAMIL, which is a similar low island, where these reefs terminate, at 9 miles to the westward of Ras Mahluk. Haramil Island is low and sandy, and covered with bushes, in latitude 22° 15' N., Ion. 39° 3' E. About 5 miles N. by W. (true) from Ras Mahluk, is RAS UL KHOOR.MAH, also low and sandy, forming on its south side a bight in the coast full of shoals : and about 3 miles to the North of it, the coast reef which began at Ras Dahlimar terminates. From Ras ul Khoormah about 12 miles N. | W. (true) is MERZA DENEB, Merza Deneb. where good anchorage may be had in 7 to 10 fathoms. From hence the coast takes a N.W. by N. direction, and at the distance of 8 miles is SHERM RHABUC. All this part of the coast is a low sandy desert. N. 20° E. from the west end of the Northern Eliza Reef, at the distance of 19 miles, and N. 59° W. (true), from Haramil I. 8 miles, in lat. 22° 19' N., and Ion. 38° 55' E., is the south end of a large reef called SHAB Shab Nazer NAZER, on the N.E. side of which there is indifferent anchorage. From this reef, N. 19° E. (true), to the '^'='^''- distance of 23 miles, numerous reefs exist on a bank of soundings, with passages and anchorages among them : their western edge preserves nearly a straight line, and there is no bottom at 40 or 50 fathoms outside them. This bank of reefs is from 2 to 5 miles broad, and a little to the westward of their northern end, in lat. 22° 38' N., and long. 38° 58' E., lies a large reef called ABOO SAHAIN, under which there is good anchorage from Aboo Sahain. N.W. winds. The S.E. part of this bank of reefs is about 1^ miles from the N.W. part of the reef; West of Ras Mahluk, but off Ras ul Khoormah, the channel is 5 miles wide, decreasing again to Ij^ miles, as Sherm Rhabuc is approached. There is a rocky shoal about mid-channel, oft' Ras ul Khoormah, but in all other parts no bottom at 40 and 50 fathoms. There is also a patch about 2 miles to the S.E. of Shab Nazar. SHERM RHABUC, in lat. 22° 23^' N., and Ion. 39° 4' E., is a capacious inlet, affording excellent anchorage inside its entrance in 8 to 12 fathoms, perfectly sheltered from all winds, and easy of ingress and egress when N.W. winds are blowing. This is a sacred spot to Mussulmen pilgrims, who here disrobe and put on the white garb of pilgrims. At this point of Rhabuc, wood, water, and other supplies may be obtained at a cheap rate, but the Bedouin Arabs are not to be implicitly trusted. An extensive date grove and several villages are situated about 5 miles, inland. In the interior of the country there is a range of mountains, of which the most conspicuous and nearest is a double bluff hill with precipitous sides, called Jibbel Rahab : it is in lat. 22° 32' 30" N., and Ion. 39° 29'30"E. West from Sherm Rhabuc about 10 miles is the east end of a large reef, about 3 miles in extent N.W. by W., called SHAB UL ABBEAT, with no bottom at 30 and 40 fathoms near it; and 9 miles W.N.W. (true), from the N.W. end of this reef are 4 small shoals lying close together, called SHAB COMSAH ; they are in lat. 22° 47' N.. and Ion. 38° 42' E., and there is no bottom at 40 fathoms close to the eastward of them. At 3 miles E. by N. from them is a rocky patch, with no bottom at 50 fathoms near it. From Sherm Rhabuc 15 miles N.W. by W. is SHERM UL KHURRAR, and here again begins the coast reef; and 8 miles further N.N.W. is a low sandy point called Ras Mustoorah. Ras Delaidelah is about 5 miles from Ras Mustoorah in the same direction, the coast between forming a bight, in which is an island on a reef, and many rocky patches ; there is also a bight full of rocks to the northward of this Ras. From Ras Delaidelah 14 miles N.N.W. (true), is Ras ul Kheehum, and 13 miles further in a N.N.W. ^ W. direction is a low sandy point called Ras Abbiat, the coast throughout the whole extent bordered by a coral reef, with shoal water and rocky patches, running off from 4 to 7 miles from shore, and no bottom at 30 fathoms close outside. North from Shab Comsah in latitude 23° 2|'N., lies a small reef, on the west side of a bank of soundings of 15 to 25 fathoms ; this is the outer reef of a large cluster called GUTTAH UL KHURRAR, which lies to the eastward of 31° 41' E. Ion. There are passages and anchorages among these reefs, also a safe channel near the shore, with no bottom at 30 and 40 fathoms. The outer boundary of the Khurrar Reefs lies 9, 10, and 11 miles from the main land, which is low near the sea ; they extend from lat. 22° 48' to lat. 23° 5|' N. About 5 miles N.N.W. (true) from Ras Abbiat is SHERM BRAICKHAH, running nearly 3 miles inland E.N.E., at the head of which are the ruins of a fortified town. Here is good anchorage for small vessels, and stock is procurable, but the natives are not to be trusted ; in fact the whole tract of coast from Ras Hartebah to this place is inhabited by the Hurrub Bedouins, a tribe whose character is proverbial throughout the sea for ferocity and treachery, so that it is dangerous to land upon it. N.W. } N. (true), 38 miles from Sherm Braickhah is the entrance to Yembo, the coast between bending in a little, and bordered throughout with a coral reef. At the distance of 6 miles from the former is RAS 2 U Slierm Rliabuc. Jibbel Rahab. Shabul Abbeat. Shab Comsah. Sherm ul Khur- rar. Guttah ul Khurrar. Sherm Braick- hali. 330 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. Ras Madges. ATTIAH, and 8 miles further RAS MADGES, to the southward of which is good anchorage, in a bight of the coast reef. North from the outer Khurrar reef are the numerous shore reefs before mentioned ; a N.N.W. line from the outer Khurrar reef leads from 3 to 6 miles to the westward of these reefs, to latitude 23° 27' N., and longitude 38° 28' E., in whicli situation there is a small reef, the southern one of a group extending 18 miles to the north- ward, to latitude 23° 45' N. ; they have soundings and indifferent anchorage among them, but no soundings on their outside. Their inner edge is from 2 to 3 miles off the coast reef, and their N.W. extremity extends to longitude 38° 21' E. full 11 mUes W. by S. (true) from Ras Attiah. About 3 miles W.S.W. from Ras Abbiat is a reef with 7 fathoms on it, and no bottom at 40 and 50 fathoms near to it. About 17 miles westward of Ras Abbiat, in lat. 23° 30' N. and Ion. 38° 18' E., is the S.E. end of a large Shab Suflamy. reef called SHAB SUFLAMY, extending thence 3 miles N.N.W. (true), having no bottom at 100 fathoms close to the southward. Jibbel Soubah bears from it S. 75°E. (true), distant 46 miles. .Tilibel Soubah. JIBBEL SOUBAH is a remarkably high mountain near the sea, of about 4,500 feet elevation, and higher than any other hills between Jiddah and Yembo ; it can be seen at the distance of 40 miles. The upper part forms a convex line, with two small peaks near the centre ; it is in lat. 23° 18' N., and Ion. 39° 8' E. A range of very high land extends some distance to the N.N. Eastward of Soubah, and has several remarkable peaks on it ; but these are seldom seen far at sea, unless the atmosphere is very clear. About N.W. by W. (true) 13 miles from the last-mentioned reef, Shab Suflamy, and 27 miles southward of Yembo, in latitude 23° 38' N., and longitude 38° 6' E., is the Thetis Reef, a small and dangerous reef, having no bottom at 120 fathoms very near to it. This reef was discovered in the Honourable Company's cruiser Thetis, in lS-29. About 7 miles N. by W. ^ W. (true) from the Thetis Reef is the south-easternmost of a cluster of shoals, called SHAB SUBBAH, or the Seven Reefs, in latitude 23° 45' N. ; they thence extend about 9 miles N.W. by N. to latitude 23° 53' N., and are about 2 miles wide, their western boundary being in longitude 37° 58' E. These are the most dangerous reefs on this part of the coast, as they lie so far from the land, and there is no bottom at 100 fathoms at a short distance to the westward of them. Besides these there are several reefs and rocky patches lying from 5 to 9 miles off shore, between Ras Madges and Yembo, with deep water between them. The outermost of these is in latitude 23° 50' N., longitude 38° 13' E. The northernmost called GUPREAR is in latitude 24° 2' N., longitude 38° 2|' E., and bears from Yembo entrance S. 52° W. (true) 5^ miles: there is good anchorage in N.W. winds at this reef. Four miles to the westward of Guprear is another small reef, and W.N.W. (true) 6| miles from Guprear is another with 7 fathoms near, and no bottom at 70 fathoms to the eastward of it. Another small reef lies S. by W. about 3 miles from Yembo. These are the only dangers in approaching Yembo, and they are easily avoided ; by a good look-out, a vessel may stand close to them without fear. Thetis Reef. Sh.ib Subbah, or Seven Reefs, Guprear Reef. Veil) bo. Rudduah IVIountains. Slierm Yembo. YEMBO, the Port of Medina, is governed by a Turkish Effendi, and garrisoned by a few troops from Egypt. It is situated on a low sandy shore, and on the northern side of a capacious inlet of the sea. The entrance of the harbour lies in latitude 24° 4'30"N., and longitude 38° 6'E. The high houses and mosque can be seen 1 3 miles distant, and the approach to it is not dangerous ; there are no soundings close to the entrance, which is 300 yards across, and a vessel can only enter with a fair wind. A patch of rocks bounds the southern side of the entrance, and extends a little distance to the N.W. on which the N.W. swell breaks very heavily, making the harbour difficult to quit when N.W. winds have been blowing; and the land wind in the morning is scarcely sufficient to carry a vessel out against the swell. This endangers a vessel being drifted en the rocks, should the land wind fail and the boats be unable to tow the vessel against the swell. This was the case with the Honourable Company's surveying brig Palinurus, and she narrowly escaped being wrecked. After entering the inlet it widens considerably, and forms a capacious harbour, with 4 to 6 fathoms in it ; there is a conspicuous white tomb in the low sandy point forming the northern side of the harbour, and there is a small sandy island, covered with bushes, having a sheik's tomb near its east end, on the broad bank of the reef forming the south side. There is a remarkable range of high table mountains to the N.E. of Yembo, called the RUDDUAH MOUNTAINS, which are by measurement 6,000 feet high ; the N.W. brow bears from Yembo N. 18° E. (true) distant 31 miles; the S.E. brow N. 23°44'E. distant 31 1- miles. Yembo affords a good and cheap supply of excellent fresh water, which is kept in covered or vaulted tanks, in and near the town ; its price about 300 gallons for one dollar. Wood is scarce ; sheep in abundance, at 1^ dollars each ; a few bullocks, fowls, fruit, and vegetables are to be obtained. The only dangers on ap- proaching Yembo have already been described. SHERM YEMBO, a capacious harbour and inlet of the sea. N. 53° W. (true) from the port of Yembo ; the entrance hes in latitude 24° 9'N., and longitude 37° 59' E. It is a safe and commodious harbour, being easy of ingress and egress for the largest ship ; the soundings are from 20 fathoms at its entrance, decreasing to 10 RED SEA. — EAST SIDE. 881 and 8 fathoms a little way in, from whence it branches off in several arm?, the northern one to the distance of five miles inland. The coast about Sherm Ycmbo is a low, sandy shore, and clear of dangers, having no sounil- ings till near CAPE BAREEDY, off which, distant 8 miles S. 47'^ E. are several reefs, with anchorages and passages between them. Soundings from 13 to 25 fathoms extend to the south-eastward of these reefs ; the land opposite forms a deep bay. There are no soundings any distance to the westward of the reef off Bareedy, and none at Cape Bareedy, 100 yards from the narrow reef bounding the shore. CAPE BAREEDY is a moderately elevated promontory, forming a convex curve to the westward, about seven miles in breadth. Several points form on this cape, all having different names by the natives, I shall there- fore take the centre and most southern part of this promontory for Cape Bareedy, which lies in latitude 24° 16' N. and longitude 37° 38' E. ; the face of the shore is bounded by steep cliffs, and there are no soundings close to them. The dangers to the south-eastward have been described ; there are none to the south-westward or West. Inland to the North and north-eastward of Cape Bareedy there is a remarkable range of broken hills, of moderate elevation; the northern and western one, called Sugar-Loaf, bears from Bareedy N. 1°W. distant 17 miles; the southern and eastern one, called Scragged Hill, bears from Bareedy N. 30° E. ("'' ""'' T"""- parallelogram, half a mile long, and between three and four hundred yards wide, formed principally of coral rocks, of no considerable height, and in great decay. Nearly one-half of the island is occupied by tanks, and a burial-ground ; and on the inner half is the town, which is crowded with habitations to the water's edge. The most considerable buildings are the mosques, the Doholah's and Banyan's houses, and a few warehouses, which are built of coral rocks : one of the mosques has two domes, and another has a place like a belfry. There is also a stone-built bazaar, where jowari, dates, tobacco, beef, mutton, and fowls, and occasionally fish, are to be procured ; and also a few brinjals, or fruit of the egg plant, and bhindis [bamiyah] , but these vegetables are seldom to be had. The trade is entirely carried on by small buggalows, principally to Mocha and Jiddah, but it is not considerable. In approaching this island 7 or 8 fathoms will be found close to the reef that extends oflf it, and 5 and 6 Massowah fathoms off the reefs on the north side of the entrance ; but the reef extends further off the island than it Harbour, does off the north side, where there is a small white mosque. The anchorage lies in a W.S.W. direction, Anchorage, and the soundings in mid-channel are 7 and 8 fathoms, mud ; the entrance is 250 yards across, and the broadest part of the harbour 450 yards between the reefs ; the anchor should, therefore, be let go in mid- channel. A light is burnt during the night on the east end of the island, and sometimes also on the jetty. The Benares has two or three times run in with north winds, by standing in a little northward of the harbour, and having got close to the coast, run along it to the South in 9 or 10 fathoms, rounding the point at the north side of the entrance, as close as the reef admits, on the east end of which there are 4 fathoms, rocks. There is no anchorage in this neighbourhood that can at all compare with Massowah, excepting one, which is a mile and a quarter North of it, and called CORE DAHALEAH. This forms an anchorage consi- derably larger than that of Mossowah, the entrance being a quarter of a mile broad, from a rocky spit extending a quarter of a mile to the North from the south side of the harbour, to the reef on the north side. The anchorage is nearly a mile North and South, and one mile broad, with soundings of 5 and G fathoms, mud. There is a rock above water on the spit, extending off the north side of the entrance, and G fathoms close to the shore reefs. Between the harbours of Massowah and Dahaleah, is a piece of land little more than a mile square, con- nected with the main by a low neck of land, a quarter of a mile broad, probably at times isolated, and apparently better adapted for a town than the small island of Massowah. Water would be quite as conveniently obtained as at present. The highlands seen from Massowah are Dissee Peak, on the highest part of that island ; GEEDAN PEAK, which is a small peak on the centre of a mountain South of MASSOWAH, and is the highest land near the coast, to the westward of Dissee Island. Near Hill is a piece of land 3-^ miles W.S.W. of Massowah anchorage, with a bluff on the south part, like the end of a barn. Round Hill, to the W.N.W. of Massowah, has a small quoin on its round top, and shows well six miles North of Massowah. North Hill is a remarkable peak on the west end of the highest outer land seen from Massowah, and distant therefrom 40 miles. From Core Dahaleah the coast runs N. by W., about 10 miles, to lias Hurub, and fi-om thence N.N.W. | W. Ras Humb. (true) 18 miles, to a part of the coast called MITHAHACT ; it then runs N. by W. 10 miles, to Coobach. Withaliaci ami Mithahact and its neighbourhood is low and sandy, bordered in some parts by low jungle, backed by salt-water Coobach. swamps, where the natives procure salt, beyond which are ranges of low barren sand-hills. The coast is bordered by a reef from Dahaleah to Coobach, where it terminates ; its breadth varies from 1 to 2 miles from the shore, and on some parts of it anchorage may be obtained on mud. From Coobach the coast runs 16 miles N. by W. ^ W. (true) to Mersa Ebrahim ; the coast between is sandy, bordered with jungle, and behind it a water-course, with high banks of soft sand. 344 RED SEA. — DHALAC ISLANDS. Moghady, Oucan, and Salina Ulandi. Hutteetao and Tor Islands. Soober and Mustarrailla Islands. THE EASTERN AND NORTHERN ISLANDS UPON THE DHALAC BANK. MOGHADY is the south-easternmost island on the Dhalac Bank, in latitude 15° 32J' N., and longitude 40° 55' E. It is a high rocky island, about 1| miles in length. North and South, andnearly a mile wide. About 1 mile to the West of it is OUCAN, also a high rocky island, about 3^ miles long E.N.E. and W.S.W., and 1 mile broad. Salma is a high rocky island, about 2 miles long, E. by N., and W. by S., and above a mile wide : it lies 3 miles N. by W. (true) from Oucan, and has a narrow reef on its north side. HUTTEETAO is 3^ miles West of Salraa. This is a high rocky island, about 2 miles long North and South, and 1 mile broad, with a reef on its east side ; and about 2J miles West of its north end is Tor Island, also high and rocky, about 2 miles long, E. by N. and W. by S., and 1 mile broad. SOOBER is 2^ miles North of Salma. This is a small high sandy island, with a reef extending a mile to the North and West ; and to the west of Soober, 2^ miles, is Mustarmilla, also a small high sandy island, with a reef extending a mile to the N.E. Dahret Segaria, Segarla, Ruc- kah, -.mA Ra- juma Islands. DAHRET SEGARLA lies about 2^ miles N. by W. of Soober. This is a low sandy and bushy island, about 1 mile long, East and West, with a reef extending a mile from its north side ; and 2^ miles N.N.W. from this island, is Segaria Island, about 3 miles long. East and West, and 1 mile wide : this is a low sandy and bushy island, with a bank of shoal water, extending 1| miles off its north side, and 1 mile S.E. from its eastern end. About 2 miles S.W. of Segaria is RUCKAH, a low sandy and coral island, with a blutF of bushes on its east end ; and 1| miles West of Ruckah is Rajuma Island, and 1 J miles to the South of it is another small island. Billhaha, Dul- deah, and Dul- goof Islands. BILLHAHA, a low sandy island, nearly 4 miles N.N.W. of the north end of Segaria, is situated upon a dangerous shoal, which extends 5 miles N.E. from the island, and 1 mile south from it. About 7 miles W. ^ N. {true) from Billhaha is Duldeah, a small, low, sandy island, surrounded with shoal water, which extends 2 miles South of the island. E.S.E. 2^ miles from Duldeah, is a shoal rocky patch. Dulgoof lies 2| miles W. by N. of Duldeah ; this is also a small, low, sandy island, with a few bushes on it ; and a reef extending to the N.E. and E., 2 miles. Howateb and Howateb Ke- beer Islands, &c. Gurreet, Dul- gold, and Jer- malko Islands. Derome Island. Denafaree Island. Shab Alii. Dulkoss and Sale Arabee Islands. HOWATEB and HOWATEB KEBEER are two low, sandy, bushy islands, 4 and 4|- miles to the north- eastward of Dulgoof. Shoal water extends upwards of a mile to the East of Howateb Kebeer, and a 3-fathom shoal lies half a mile off its S.W. part. At 5 and 6 miles to the eastward of it are two rocky patches of 2 and 3 fathoms ; and N.E. by E. 9 miles from it, is a shoal rocky patch, with 14 fathoms close to it : this patch is in lat. 15° 59' N., and Ion. 40° 48' E. GURREET is 4 miles S.W. and DULGOLD is 5 miles South of Dulgoof Island; they are low, sandy islands, situated upon a bank of shoal water, about 3 miles apart. Senach is a low, sandy island, 3^ miles S.E. by E. (true) of Dulgold, and 4 miles West of Rajumah. JERMALKO is a small island surrounded by a reef, lying W. by S. 4j miles from Senach. DEROME lies 7 miles W.N.W. from Dulgoof. It is a small, low, sandy island, situated upon the centre of a bank of shoal water 6 miles long, which extends E.S.E. and W.S.W. 3 miles from it. DENAFAREE is a small, but high rocky island, lying 3 miles South of Derome ; it is situated upon a bank of rocks which extends 1 mile to the N.E. and 2 miles to the S.W. of it. N.E. by N. (true), 3| miles from Derome, is a shoal, rocky patch. There is deep water round and between all the islands and their reefs that Jiave been described, but vessels coming in from the eastward must be careful to avoid a dangerous shoal bank called the SHAB ALLI : its southern end lies about three mUes from Soober, and it thence extends N.N.W. about 10 miles, approaching within 2 miles of Dahret Segaria, with 9 to 15 fathoms close to its west edge. It is in its widest part about 2 miles, but the bank on which it is situated is about 9 miles in breadth, having 1 7 fathoms close to its eastern edge : it has several patches, and various depths on it, which, as well as the depths between the islands, will be best understood by looking at the Chart. DULKOSS, or SAYEEN Island, 4 miles west of Denafaree, is 2 miles long, rather high and rocky, and surrounded by shoal water on Dhalac reef; S.S.E. 4^ miles from Dulkoss, and 8^ miles W. by N. from Jermalko, is Sale Arabee, a small high rocky island of coral formation, lying 9^ miles East of Doobelloo village on Dhalac, and surrounded with shoal water on Dhalac reef, rocky patch, and another lies North of the island, 2i miles N.N.E. ^ E. (true) I3 miles from it, is a small RED SEA. — DHALAC ISLANDS. 345 W. J S. (true), 5 miles from Jermalko, and S.E. by E. ((rue), 4 miles from Sale Arabee, is a small island with a reef round it, and a rocky patch 2^ miles N. by E. of it. N.W. G miles from Derome is Dulfeedo, a low sandy and coral island, nearly 2 miles long, N.E. and S.W., Dulfcedo and and 1:\- miles wide: a bank of shoal water extends from it to E.S.E., upwards of 3 miles. S.S.W. 3 miles Dulangcbart from it, and W. by N. (true) GJ miles from Derome, is DULANGEBART, a low sandy island, li miles long. Is'*"''*- surrounded by a reef which extends 3 miles E.S.E. from it. MURSATABAN, a low sandy island, l^ miles long, East and West, lies West, 6 J miles from Dulangebart ; and to the N.N.W. of it, one mile, is the soutli end of Dulhalura, which thence extends N.N.W. 3 miles, and is one mile broad. This is a low sandy island, surrounded by shoal water : it has a fishing village on it, and there are two small sand-banks between it and Mursataban. S. by W. li and S. by E. (true) 2 miles from Mursataban are the Agrub Islands, low and sandy; and IJ miles S. by E. (true) from the easternmost is Dahret Dulkoss Island, also low and sandy. Mursataban, and Dulhalum Islands. Agrub and Dahret Dul- koss. SALE SEGUN is a high coral and barren island, upwards of 2 miles off Ras Goosum, and nearly 4 miles Sale Segun. West of Dulkoss : it is narrow at the base, and spreads out at the top, and situated near the eastern edge of the bank which forms the west side of the channel to Doobelloo anchorage. I ERWA is a moderately high, flat coral island, about 12 miles in circumference, separated from Dhalac by a very narrow channel for small boats, and has a few fishermen's huts on it. On its western side is a gut, with 3 to 6 fathoms in it, leading to the anchorage for vessels visiting Doobelloo, which is of an oval shape, formed in the reef about 2 miles S.E. of the town. The narrow entrance to this place begins about 1.', miles South of Sale Segun, and the coast reef must be kept close to in order to avoid the shoal part of the banks to the eastward : the channel is extremely narrow, and to the N.E. of Doobelloo there is very little more than 1 fathom in it, and that on rocks. On the South side of the island is a large space of 5 or G fathoms' depth. The rush of water in and out of this gut is of considerable force. Three miles S.W. of Marsataban are DURGOMAN SEGGEER and DURGOMAN KEBEER. The former is a low sandy island, the latter high and rocky, with wood on the S.E. part of it. They lie about 1,' miles off the N.E. point of Dhalac, and have shoal water all about them. About a mile West of the north end of Dulhulum, is the S.E. end of NORA ISLAND, which extends 11 miles N.N.W., and is 6 miles at the widest part, nearly of triangular shape, of about 32 miles in circiimference : it is a low sand and coral island, with a few spots of date trees. There are three fishermen's villages on it ; one on the S.W. part, bearing the same name as the island, another on the S.E. part, and the third on the N.W. part, in a deep bay, where good water may be procured. This island is situated upon a bank of 1 and 2 fathoms, by which it is connected to the N.E. part of Dhalac. UNTOENTORE, about 16 miles to the N.E., is upon the same bank, and also several islands to the N.W. and West of Nora, so that there is no channel for ships across the Dhalac Bank to the southward of Untoentore Island. DILLADEAH, W.S.W. 3 miles from S.E. point of Nora ; Durafroos and Bettah, about 3 miles S.S.W. and W.S.W. from its S.W. point ; and Sale Nora, about a mile from the west part of the island, are all small rocky islands, situated near the edge of the shoal bank of Nora, with deep water at a mile S.W. and West of them. GESERAT ASKAR, SALE HADASSEE, NORA HADASSEE, DAHRET. ENTVEDOOL, and DUHULUM, are all situated upon, and some of them near the edge of the shoal bank of Nora, off the N.W. and north part of that island, from 2 to 6 miles. Some of them are low, sandy islands, and others rather high and rocky, with bushes. Eight miles East of the S.E. part of Nora Island is the Island Dulfeedo, already described ; and between, but rather nearer to Nora, are several low sandy islands or banks, without names. W.N.W. 5 miles from Dulfeedo, and 1| miles off the east side of Nora, is Mahoon, a low sand and coral island, of about 8 miles' circumference. Nahelej is a long, low, sand and coral island, about 2 miles wide in the broadest part, and 8 miles long : it is off the N.E. part of Nora, its south point being about a mile to the North of the west end of Mahoon, from whence if extends to N.N.E. About 7 miles East of its north end is a 4-fathoms patch, with 14 fathoms near it. North, li miles from the north end of Nahelej, is DAHRET GOOBARREE, a low coral island, about a mile in length, and, hke the two former, is situated upon the shoal bank of Nora. Three miles W. by N. from its north end is a 2-fathoras patch of rocks, with 8 and 9 fathoms near it. About 2 miles to the N.E. of this island is that of GUBBEHOO, a low sand and coral island, with a few bushes on it ; it is about 2 miles in length. North and South, and has a bight on its east side. It is situated upon and near the N.E. extremity of Nora shoal bank, or reef, which extends about a mile beyond its N.E. end. UNTOENTORE is the north-easternmost of this range of islands, although it is separated bv a narrow 2 Y Erwa Island. Doobelloo Anchorage. DurgomanSeg- geer and Dur- goman Kebeer Islands. Nora Island. Good Water. No Channel for Ships. Alahoon and Nahelej Is- lands. Dahret Goo- liarree and Gubbehoo Is lands. Untoentore Island. B46 RED SEA. — DHALAC ISLANDS. Harnieel. Sale Harnieel and Inteusnoo Islands. Romea Island and Shoats. Usbob Island. Hukally Island. channel between the reefs, of 6 to 8 fathoms. It is a low, bushy, sand and coral island, with several shoals to the westward of it : namely, one N.W. by N. (true) 3 and 4 miles, with 4 fathoms on it ; one to the West 3^ miles, very shoal ; and a 2-fathoms patch, W.S.W. (true) 2| miles : this island, though small, has shoal water extending from it to the S.W. (true) 2| miles, and the 2-fathoms patch is half a mile from the extreme end of it. Untoentore Island is in latitude 16° 21' N., and longitude 40° 17^' E. HARMEEL is the north-easternmost island on the Dhalac Bank ; its eastern point in latitude 19° 324' N., longitude 40° 15i' E., bears N. by W., distant 12 miles from Untoentore Island; it extends about 5 miles to S.VV. and South, and is upwards of 13 miles in circumference. It is a low, woody, sand and cored island, with a deep bight on its north side, forming a shallow salt lake. About 2 miles East of its south end is a sand-bank called SALE HARMEEL, and about 2 miles West of its south point is Inteusnoo, a small, low, woody, sand and coral island, surrounded by a reef. These islands are situated upon a sand and coral bank, 8 miles square, upon which the soundings are very irregular, from 1 to 15 fathoms : the S.E. point of this bank, with 3 and 4 fathoms on it, extends to within 4 miles North of Untoentore Island. ROMEA is about 5 miles West of Harmeel, and is a very small island, composed of sand and coral, and covered with wood. Between it and the bank of Harmeel is a channel 2 miles wide, with 17 and 19 fathoms; and to the W.N.W. of the island, 6 and 8 miles, are two dangerous rocky patches ; the first with 4, the other with 1 fathom on it, on which the water breaks in blowing weather. There is also a breaking patch, 8 miles W.S.W. (true) from it : it is also surrounded by several other banks of 2 and 4 fathoms, but there is deep water near the island ; and, in fine weather, the bank may generally be seen. USBOB is a small, low, bushy, coral island, 1^ miles South of Inteusnoo, with a channel of 16 and 17 fathoms between them. It is surrounded by a bank, and there is a sand and coral bank one mile West of it, which is 7 miles long, and 4 miles broad ; its north part is within 2 miles of the parallel of Romea Island, and there are patches of 2 fathoms on it, but a deep water channel between it and Usbob. HUKALLY is a low, bushy, sand and coral island, 5 miles South of Usbob, and 7 miles West of Untoen- tore : a reef runs nearly 2 miles W.S.W. from it, and a 7-fathoms patch lies 3 miles S.W. by S. from the island. Sale Amber. Suratoo and Wooster Is- lands. Tunnum. Jerome and Jurmtudda Is- lands. Tookfash and Ommarlee Is- lands. SALE AMBER is 4 miles West of Hukally, and is a smaU woody island ; and 4 J miles to the West of it is SURATOO. This island has some small peaked hills upon it, and is one of the highest and largest on these banks, being 13 miles in circumference, and nearly divided into two by a small inlet on its north side, which forms a lake of salt water. The island is principally composed of coral rock, and only affords a supply of fire- wood. Wooster is 2^ miles West of Suratoo, is 1^ miles long, and rather high, being composed of coral rock : there are small rocky islets lying to the eastward of its north and south ends, and a 2-fathoms patch between it and Suratoo. Suratoo and Wooster are situated upon a sand and coral bank, 10 miles long East and West, and from 3 to 4 miles broad, with from 8 to 10 fathoms on the east part of it, which extends to E.S.E. from Suratoo : there are 5 to 7 fathoms between it and Wooster, both to the East and West of the 2-fathoms patch, and no bottom at 50 fathoms close to the South of Suratoo. N. by W. (true), 3 miles from Suratoo, is a patch of 2 and 3 fathoms on the S.E. part of a bank, which extends thence to the North 3^ miles, where there are 3 fathoms, and West 5 miles, where there are 1 1 fathoms, and 45 fathoms close to. W.S.W. (true), 3 miles from Wooster, is TUNNUM Island, about Ig miles in circumference, and rather high : SALE TUNNUM is smaller, but has a remarkable small peak on it ; and there are other rocky islets lying to the West and N.W. of Tunnum, and a rocky patch of 2 fathoms and less lying 3| miles S. by W. (true) from it. S. by E. (true), 5 miles from Tunnum, is a little island called Jerome : and South, 9\ miles from it, is another of the same description, called Jurmtudda ; these are all situated upon one bank, whose length. North and South, is 1 1 1 miles, and breadth. West of Jurmtudda, 9 miles. TOOKFASH is 5 miles S. by E. of Jerome, is a low sandy island, with a 2-fathoms shoal 2 miles N.E. by N. (true) from it. Ommarlee is 5 miles W. by S. from Tookfash, and is a small low bushy island of sandy formation ; to the westward of which, 3^ miles, is Sale Badeera, a small, low, rocky island. Aboo Sherrj'er, Dahret, and MuUuk, are three small sandy islands, from 3^ to 5| miles to the northward of Sale Badeera : the first two are low coral islands covered with wood, and there is a 2-fathoms channel between. A sandy spit runs off the south end of Aboo Sherryer, and to the eastward of it, 1 and 3 miles, are two rocky patches ; another to the West about 1 mile, and one midway between this island and Ommarlee. Mulluk is a low sandy island, with some bushes, separated from the others by a narrow channel of 6 and 7 fathoms in the centre, and shoal water extends to the North of the island, nearly 3 miles. About 3 miles South of Sale Badeera is Bura- doo, a low triangular island, 3J miles in circumference, with a few dome trees on it. S.E. 1|^ miles from Buradoo is Dohul, a low, quadrilateral island, 9 miles in circumference, with some dome trees on it. A small RED SEA. — DHALAC ISLANDS, 347 mosque and village, with about 100 inhabitants, are on the N.W. side, and near the trees. On tlie east side of the island are three or four wells of fresh water during the rains, but brackish in the dry season ; they barely afford sufficient for the inhabitants, who are fishermen. Dahrel is about I, J miles West of Dohul, and is a low sandy island, with a few bushes on it, lying nearly 3 miles to tiic N.W. of Uahrel : the two latter islands border the east side of the inner channel. The whole of the above islands are situated upon one bank of very irregular soundings, from 12 to 1 fathom, as will be seen by the chart. Its south extremity is 2 miles south of Dohul, and from thence to the north extremity of the reef off MuUuk, it occupies a space of 17 miles ; and its breadth, from the reef to the N.E. of Tookfash to the western side, is 14 miles ; but there appears to be a ciiannel between Tookfash and Ommarlee, of 8 or 9 fathoms. About 7 miles N.E. of Tookfash, and 11 miles West of the north part of Nora Island, is Entadell, a Enuidell and sandy and rocky island, with a shoal patch three-quarters of a mile to the West of it, and a 14-fathoms channel Omer Salt- between it and Nora. Omer Sale is 4 miles S.S.E. from it, and 5^ miles from the westernmost part of Nora, Islanils. on its parallel ; this is also a sandy and rocky island, and has a 3-fathoms shoal 1 mile N.W. (true) of it, and a 20-fathoms channel between it and Nora. To the West and S.W. of the latter is SALE RABAH, consisting of high rocks, and GAD ENTOGAELUF, a low sand-bank. ENTOGAELUF, HADBARO SEGGEER, and HADBARO KEBEER, are three low sandy islands, from 7 to S miles West of the S.W. point of Nora, and are situated upon a shoal rocky bank. S.W. (true), 1^ miles from the southernmost, is a dangerous rocky patch of 1 fathom. To the S.S.E. of the latter islands, from 4 to 7 miles, are the little islands Dalbahout, Dulkoos, Dahret Dubanet, and Dillathum, all lying to the S.S.W. of Nora, and W.N.W. of the N.W. point of Dhalac. Dalla- thum, heretofore described, lies oft' that point of Dhalac ; the others lie on two sand and coral banks, with a channel of 12 to 14 fathoms between them, about 3 or 4 miles N.E. by N. from Derridgerree, hereafter described. West 14^ miles from Romea, and N.N.W. (true), nearly 12 miles from Suratoo, is HOWALEE HUTTOOB ; Howak-e Hut- and S.W. by W. | W. (trve), 6 J miles from it, is HOWALEE SHOORAH : these are two small coral islands toob.and Ho«. situated upon a sand and coral bank, 16 miles long E. by N. and W. by S., and from 3 to 4 miles broad, ■'jl^e S'loorah About 4^ miles East (true) of Howalee Shoorah is a patch of 2 fathoms, and 4 miles W.S.W. (true) from the same island are some rocky patches above water : there are 27 fathoms at half a mile North of Howalee Huttoob. S.W. I S. (true), 10 miles from Howalee Shoorah, is the island KADDO, a narrow island 2 miles long in an Kaddo Island, east and west direction, and rather high, with a rocky islet off its west end. This island is situated near the north end of a sandy and rocky bank, which running S.E. J S. (true) forms a deep channel on the east side of Harrat : the bank is about 3 miles wide, and the most dangerous ])art discovered is the south end, where there are only 2 fathoms, this is about 9 miles West of Jerome Island. This bank extends 11 miles to the S.E., and 4 miles N.N.W. (true) of Kaddo, has 8 fathoms on its north end, and 2G fathoms close to it. The north end of Harrat Island bears S.S.W. (true) 10 miles from Kaddo. ABOO RUBAH is a small coral island of a wedge shape, with small rocks off the N.E. and S.W. ends : it Aboo Rubah lies 10 miles W.S.W. J W. (true) from Howalee Shoorah, and N.N.W. (true) 7^ miles from Kaddo. Island. DESCRIPTION OF THE SOUTHERN AND WESTERN ISLANDS UPON THE DHALAC BANK, FORMING ] HE SOUTHERN CHANNEL TO MASSOWAH ; AND THE COAST AND ADJACENT ISLANDS FROM THENCE TO SUAKIN. Bolhcssoo Islands. We have already stated that Moghady is the south-easternmost island on the Dhalac Bank, and that Oucun is to the westward of it. The next to the westward is DULGROSE Island, lying 2 miles W. by S. (true) from Dulgrosc, Ma- Oucan : this is a high rocky island of triangular shape, surrounded by a reef, and 1 j miles S. by W. from it is ^}l'\^'' ""'' MASHILGAR, a small but high rocky island, also surrounded by a reef. S.W. ^ W. (true), 4 miles from " """" Mashilgar, is the low sandy island of Bolhessoo, about a mile in length, with a 4-fathoms rockv bank about half a mile to the N.W. of it. This little island is in lat. 15^ 25' N., and Ion. 40° 43' E., and with RAS UNDUDDAH, from which it is distant 24 miles N. by E. ^ E. (true), forms the south entrance of the inner channel. Omer Sarridge bears from it S.S.W. J W. (true) 22 miles, and Howakel nearly S.W. by W. 23 miles. N. 64° W. (true), 13 miles from Bolhessoo, is SALE AMBER, a low sandy island with a reef round it. Sale Amber. lying 5 miles S.S.E. (true) from the S.E. point of Dhalac Island. N.E. by N. (true) 3^ miles from Sale Amber, is HOWATE, with a reef round it ; and N.E., North, and N.N.W. (true) from 2 to 4 miles from it, are OMES Howaie. NYUL, DURAKAH EL BAH, and DURAKAH EL BAHAR, aU low sandy islands, lying off the east end of Dhalac. W. } N. (true), 4 miles from Sale Amber, is the east end of Moosmaree Island, extending thence 2i miles Moosmarec 2 Y 2 Island. 348 RED SEA. — DHALAC ISLANDS. Shummar Island. Dhalac Island. Fresh Water. Gool) ut So- gera. Nokerah Island. Enteurah Island. Sale Bayuice. W. by N., and half a mile broad : it is high and rocky, about 4 miles South of the S.E. extremity of Dhalac, and is situated on the eastern part of a dangerous and extensive rocky spit that runs out E. by S. from theS.W. part of Dhalac Island. This island is surrounded by a cluster of rocky islets forming arches, with the water passing through them. Upon the same reef, 9 miles further to the westward, and about the centre of the south part of Dhalac, are several small rocky islets and rocks above water ; and besides these, at 8 miles further westward, there are some little rocky islands in the anchorage at the S.W. part of Dhalac. About 16 miles W. ^ N. (true) from Moosmaree is the east end of SHUMMAR Island, extending thence W. by N. 2i^ miles, and three-quarters of a mile wide, surrounded by a reef. This Island lies about 3 miles from the S.W. part of Dhalac, and 5 miles E.N.E. (true) from the island at the north point of Hurtow land, and forming therewith the narrowest part of the south entrance of the inner channel. N.W. (true), 7^ miles from Shummar Island, is the little island Enteurah, surrounded with a reef, and here- after described. DHALAC Island is 120 miles in circumference, and of extraordinary shape: its south side is 23 miles long, and its greatest breadth is 18 miles. It is principally composed of coral rock, interspersed with spots affording a supply of good grass in the rainy season. The" only beasts seen on the island are asses, goats, sheep, and antelopes ; the latter are numerous. The number of towns or villages are seven, namely : Doobelloo, Derboshat, Salat, Dhalac Kebeer, at the S.W. part of the island, Goobanee, Cumbeeber, and Memlah. DOOBELLOO, on the eastern side, has the principal trade and best appearance of any of the villages : most of the houses are built of coral and gatched, others are built of loose stones ; the outer walls 10 feet high with sloping grass tops, the plastered houses having square tops ; there are also some huts made of coarse grass. The principal Sheikh of the island resides at Derboshat, and the others of the different villages are subservient to him. The trade of Doobelloo is principally with Loheia and Gheesan ; from thence they import jowari and dates, and give in return the produce of the pearl banks, such as fish, sharks' fins, the horny part of shell fish, turtle, and pearls. They preserve their water in tanks, which are filled during the rainy season : there are also a number of wells about 2 miles to the N.W. of Dhalac Kebeer, near the beach, surrounded by an embankment forming an irregular figure, about 200 feet across in the broadest part. During the rains there are also a number of fresh water pools upon the island. There are four mosques at Dhalac Kebeer, two of which have domes, and two burial-grounds. GOOB UT SOGERA is an extraordinary formed place in the western side of Dhalac ; the entrance to it is about 5 or 6 miles to the N.N.W. (true) of Dhalac Kebeer. The passage is very narrow, with 6, 7, and 8 fathoms in it, increasing quickly to deeper water on rounding the point of Dhalac ; and a vessel should anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms near Cockloft Island, at the inner part of the passage, as further in the core there is no ground at 42 and 32 fathoms ; and there are 27 to 20 fathoms near the south extremity of it, where there are three small cores of 5, 6, and 11 fathoms, the easternmost of which has mud, the other two, rocky bottom. The westernmost of these cores is the most convenient for boats obliged to procure water at Dhalac, which must be transported in mussucks, and the ship should anchor a little without this small core in 20 fathoms, to expedite the watering. The tide runs with rapidity in the entrance to this place, and a ship with its assistance may get in or out with little difficulty ; otherwise with a fair wind only, for there is no room to work through. The rise and fall of the tides in this core, according to Capt. Court, is 9 feet. The north side of the passage to Goob ut Sogera is formed by the island NOKERAH, which is nearly 6 miles in circumference, and of middling height, composed principally of coral rock, but interspersed with small valleys, and low spots of good grass and a few dome trees on different parts of the island : there is also a village built of madrepore without cement, and with grass tops, containing about 100 inhabitants. Goats and good water can be procured ; the latter is on the eastern side of the island, about half a mile from the beach, over a rugged road ; it is therefore necessary to carry it to the boat in mussucks. Although there is always suflJcient for the inhabitants, a ship could not be certain of procuring water here in the dry seasons. There are three or four small islands on the N.W. side, and two on the East : the western one on the East is a high remarkable islet or rock, called Cockloft Island : it stands as it were upon a pivot, the lower part being washed off or worn away to that degree that it must soon fall, and is connected by shoal water to Nokerah, where the boats go for water. From the small island East of it shoal water projects half a mile to the South into the core, with 42 fathoms close to it. Three and a half miles to the S.W. of the entrance to Goob ut Sogera is the little low sandy island ENTEURAH before-mentioned, surrounded by a reef, and a little to the southward of it Dhalac reef extends 2^ miles from the shore, leaving a passage between it and Enteurah reef, nearly 2 miles wide, with from 6 to 1 3 fathoms in it, sand and mud, with deep water close to the north and south parts of the passage. SALE BAYUICE is a small, low, black, rocky islet close to Dhalac Island, bearing S. 68° E. (true), about 3i^ miles from Enteurah, and the reef projects from it to the West 2 miles, and turns in sharply again on its south side to the coast ; from thence to the S.W. part of Dhalac there is no reef, and there are 45 fathoms on RED SEA. — DHALAC ISLANDS. 349 mud, close to the shore, and to the projecting ])art of the reef off Sale Bayuice ; the soundings are very irregular, from 15 to 4 futhoms, rocks, and 2 fathoms a little further on it. The land forms a small bight off the village of Dhalac Kchcer, which is fronted by the reef that extends AnchornKcoH' along the south part of the island, and close to it the vfater is very deep. There are several small islands on Ulmlac Kibeer. the reef off this place, and vessels venture to anchor hero ; but it is not advisable for a ship to attempt it, as with a southerly wind it is a lee shore, and the bottom, excepting near the beach, in shoal water, is hard rock. INDUBBEE ISLAND is about ]A miles N.W. (trne) of Nokerah Island, and is connected with it and Imlubbee and Dhalac by shoal water : it is nearly 1 mile square, of middling height, barren and rocky, and no good anchorage !">;"'''' Islands, off it. TERRAH ISLAND is smaller than Indubbee, is of triangular form, and separated from it by a small shoal channel. On the East and North of Indubbee are three rocky islets. GUNDABELEE ISLAND is 1 mile West (