THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ANNALS , OF LOWER DEESIDE BEING A TOPOGRAPHICAL, PROPRIETARY ECCLESIASTICAL, AND ANTIQUARIAN HISTORY OF X)urris, Drumoafc, anb Qulter JOHN A. HENDERSON AUTHOR OF "THE HISTORY OF BANCHORY-DEVENICK" ABERDEEN : D. WYLLIE & SON 1892 Hd INTRODUCTION. THE history of the larger number of our Scottish parishes has not hitherto received the attention its importance deserves. There is abundant material of great value awaiting collection which is of more than parochial or local interest. In course of time many of the documents and traditions which are now avail- able will be lost or forgotten, and with them will pass away the record of much that not only has a charm for the antiquarian, but no little interest and value both for the historian of our country, and for the delineator of the character and manners of our countrymen in the days of old. These considerations, together with a liking for the subject, have induced the author to prepare and submit to the public the following Annals of Loiver Deeside, embracing the parishes of Durris, Drumoak, and Culter. It is hoped that, while material exists, others of antiquarian taste, with greater ability and more time at their disposal, may enter this interest- ing field of research, and give to the country the benefit of their investigations. In consequence of the scarcity of published matter bearing upon the district treated of, the 593379 ENGLISH LOCAL viii Introduction. writer has had to rely for information chiefly upon the title deeds and charters of estates, manuscripts, legal prints, and Presbytery and Kirk Session records, all of which were ungrudgingly placed at his disposal on application, and many extracts from which now appear for the first time. Where ma- terial has been taken from published works, it has invariably been acknowledged, and references have been given. The Kirk Session records of these parishes ex- tend to twenty-nine large volumes, the examination of which alone is no slight task ; but they throw so much light upon the old forms of ecclesiastical dis- cipline, and the habits and state of the people of the last two centuries, that the labour has been amply repaid by the results obtained. Readers of exclusively antiquarian taste may be inclined to think that the transactions of The Maryculter Club, which are here published for the first time, scarcely harmonize with the general character and aim of the work, but the extracts disclose such a striking contrast between the social state of half a century ago and that of to-day, that they may not prove uninteresting to the general reader. Antiquarian students may also bear in mind that these extracts are of an interest that will increase with the passage of years, for future Introduction. ix writers of parochial history will no doubt regard them as important helps in the description of local social life in an age that will stand in a more antique relation to them than it does to us. In addition to the acknowledgments made jn the body of the work, cordial thanks are tendered to the many gentlemen who have kindly given access to their title deeds and other documents, to Kirk Sessions for their ready permission to use their records, and specially to the Rev. William Lawrence, M.A., minister of Banchory-Devenick, for revising the proof sheets as the work passed through the press. The greatest care has been exercised to ensure perfect accuracy in all dates and statements, so that the work might be authoritative in its own depart- ment ; and the author expresses the hope that the pleasure of readers in perusing the book may be as great as his in preparing it. JOHN A. HENDERSON. AVONDALE, CULTS, ABERDEEN, March, 1892. CONTENTS. PARISH OF DURRIS. Page DURRIS, i Originally a hunting forest, i. In the possession of the Cumin Family, i. Succession of the Fraser Family and notices regarding their des- cendants, 2-14. Bought by Anthony Mactier, 14. Bought by Dr. James Young, 15. Bought by Henry Robert Baird, 16. Description of Mansion House and Policies, 16, 17. Anti- quarian finds and traditional lore, 18-21. HOGGS OF BLAIRYDRINE, -22 Notices of the Family and descendants, 22-24. PARISH CHURCH, .25 Early history, 25-27. Description of Communion Utensils, 28. Notices of Ministers, 28-32. Ex- tracts from Ecclesiastical Records, 32-34. PARISH OF DRUMOAK. DRUMOAK, 35 Boundaries, &c., 35. Antiquities, 36. Super- stitious Customs, 37. Case of Body-snatching, 38-42. xii Contents, Page ESTATE OF DRUM, 43 Originally a Hunting Forest, 43. Wauchopes of Culter Royal Foresters, 43. Bestowed by Robert -the Bruce upon William de Irwine or Irvine, 43. Notices regarding the Irvine Family, 44.-63. Des- cription of Castle, 63-65. ESTATE OF LEYS, 65 Early Notices of the Family of Burnett, 65, 66. Made Foresters of Drum, 66. Lands made into the Barony of Leys, 67. Notices of the Family, 67-69. Description of Crathes Castle, 69, 70. Extracts from Barony Court Book, 70-73. ESTATE OF PARK, - 73 Park reserved by Robert I., and subsequently granted to Walter Moigne, thereafter to Alex- ander Irvine, and afterwards to Patrick Duff, 73. Notices respecting subsequent Proprietors, 74, 75- PARISH CHURCH, 75 Notices respecting titular Saint, 75, 76. Church Confirmed to See of Aberdeen, 76. History of the Parish Churches, 77-82. Notices of Minis- ters, 82-89. Extracts from Kirk Session Re- cords, 89-106. PARISH OF PETERCULTER. PETERCULTER, - 107 Early History, 107. Notices regarding Pre- historic Remains and Antiquities, 108-110. Legends, &c., 110-115. Contents. xiii Page ESTATE OF CULTER, - 115 Owned by Alan the Durward, 115. Succession of the Cumin Family and notices regarding them, 116-120. Succession of the Duffs, and notices respecting them, 120-124. DRUM PROPERTY, - - 125 Notices regarding Anguston, Kennerty, Linn, and Leuchar, 125, 126. ESTATE OF COUNTESSWELLS, - 126 Early notices regarding Countesswells, Gardin, and Brutherfield, 126. Acquired by John Leith, 126. Succession of the Burnetts, there- after of the Sandilands, 127. Property bought by Alexander Livingston, thereafter by James Burnett, 128. Bought by James Gammell, 129. CULTER PAPER WORKS, - 129 Origin of Works, 129. Changes of Proprietors, &c., 130. SCHOOLMASTERS, - 131 William Forbes, author of "The Dominie Depos'd," 132. Selections from the Poem, 134. George Skene Keith, 135. PARISH CHURCH, - 135 Description of Communion Utensils, Sic., 136, Notices regarding Ministers, 137-144. Extracts from Session Records, 145-151. xiv Contents, PARISH OF MARYCULTER. Page MARYCULTER, - 152 Origin of Parish, 152. History of the Knights Templars and Knights Hospitallers, and their connection with it, 152-165. Notices regarding Graveyards, 165. Legend regarding Godfrey Wedderburn, 167-176, ESTATE OF MARYCULTER, - 176 Notices regarding the Estate and Fishings, 176. Erected into a Barony, 177. Acquired by the Menzies Family, 177. Bought by the Gordons of Fy vie, 177. ESTATE OF ALTRIES, - 179 Notices regarding the Property and its Proprie- tors the Kinloch Family, 179, 180. ESTATE OF KINGCAUSIE, - 180 Acquired by the Irvine Family, 180. Succession of the Boswell Family, 182. ESTATE OF BLAIRS, . - 184 Acquired by Gilbert Menzies of Findon, 184. Notices regarding the Menzies Family, 186-189. Notices respecting Books and Paintings, 189-195. Notices regarding the College, 195. ESTATE OF AUCHLUNIES, - 195 Acquired by the Family of Collinson or Collison, 196. Acquired by James Brand, merchant, Cullen, thereafter by Patrick Souper, 199. No- tices regarding subsequent Proprietors, 200-201. Contents. xv Page ESTATE OF HEATHCOT, - 201 Sold off Auchlunies to Thomas Gordon of Prem- nay, 201. Succession of Lady Mary Banner- man, 201. Notices regarding subsequent Pro- prietors, &c., 201-203, PARISH CHURCH, - 203 Early Notices regarding the Old Church, 203-206. Description of the New Church and its Pulpit, Windows, and Communion Plate, 206. Notices respecting Ministers, 206-210. Notices regard- ing Session Records, 211, 212. MARYCULTER CLUB, - 212 Notices regarding Origin and Rules, 212-216. List of Members with their Club Titles, 216- 219. Extract Minutes, 220-247. POPULATION STATISTICS, - - 248 ANNALS OF LOWER DEESIDE. DURRIS. DURRIS, or Dores, in early times was a hunting forest, with a castle or hunting seat of considerable strength. It was occupied for a time by Alexander III., and the earliest mention of it occurs in the Chamberlain Rolls of that period, when certain sums of money were paid for repairs and alterations of the vessels and bridge at the house of Durris. Whether the bridge was of wood or stone is not recorded, but the connection in which it is mentioned suggests the probability of its having been a drawbridge for the castle, which would appear to have been moated. When Edward I. overran Scotland, and had almost the whole of it in subjection, he gave the keepership of the forest of Durris to his faithful allies the Cumin family, for in the mandate of B 2 Durris. Edward, in 1292, the Earl of Buchan is mentioned as holding that office. 1 In July, 1296, the English King, in the course of his march through Scotland, visited the castle, where certain of the barons of the district paid him homage. The downfall of the Cumin family, during the reign of Robert the Bruce, led, not only to the forfeiture of the various offices held by them, but also to the confiscation of the greater portions of their extensive properties, and it is upon record in Robertson's Index of Scottish Charters* that Durris was in the hands of the Crown in 1 308. Many writers and eminent antiquarians have fallen into the mistake of supposing that Sir Alexander Eraser, who married the sister of Robert the Bruce, and who acted as Lord Chamberlain of Scotland during the greater part of the reign of that King, was the first proprietor of Durris. A minute examination of the various authorities shews that the first owner, who had a direct grant from the Crown, was William Eraser, second son of Sir Alexander Eraser the Chamberlain. He married Margaret Moray, daughter of Sir Andrew Moray of Bothwell, and the title of his charter from David II. runs thus: "To William Eraser, and Margaret Murray, his spouse, of the thanedom of Durris and thanedom of Collie [Cowie], whilk thanedom of Collie was Alexander Eraser's, his father, with the lands of Eskyltuh, Essintuly, in 1. Rotuli Sco'.ise, I. p. 10. 2. Robertson's Index, p. 68, No. 8. Durtis. 3 Kincardine." 1 From this it is manifest that, although Cowie had belonged to Sir Alexander Fraser the Chamberlain, Durris did not do so, and no mention of it occurs in the list of the many possessions of that Knight. William Fraser's career was an eventful one. Associating himself with his father-in-law, the brave Sir Andrew Moray, Sir William Douglas, and the other Scottish leaders who maintained the struggle against English domination, he took part in the various engagements and exploits which culminated in the surprise and capture of Edinburgh Castle in April, I34I. 2 Six weeks later, King David, with his Queen, returned from France and landed at Inverbervie. 3 Soon after his arrival he is said to have held his Court at Perth, and there to have bestowed lands and other rewards upon those who had signalized themselves in his cause and service, or whose parents had lost their lives at Dupplin, Halidon Hill, or in the other conflicts which had taken place during the preceding decade. 4 William Fraser, whose claims under these categories were so conspicuous (his father Sir Alexander Fraser was killed at the battle of Dupplin), obtained a grant of the thanages of Durris and Cowie as before mentioned, but 1. Robertson's Ittdex, p. 60, No. 14. 2. Fordun, Gesta Annalia, cap. clx. 3- Ibid. 4. Erasers of Philorth, I., p. 100. 4 Durris. unfortunately the charter by which these pos- sessions were conferred is no longer extant, the title of it in Robertson's Index being all that remains. 1 It is believed that from the hand of his Sovereign he at the same time received the honour of knighthood, to which rank his title in a charter to one of his sons, and in the notice of his death shows that he attained. In all likelihood he served in the earlier expeditions of David II. into the Northern Counties of England, at least he took part in the disastrous campaign of 1346, which ended in the defeat of the Scotch at Durham, in which battle he was slain. 2 His widow survived for many years, for, fourteen years later, an entry in the Chamberlain Rolls shews her in receipt of a pension from the lands of the thanage of Cowie. 3 Sir William Fraser left two sons : Alexander who succeeded him in Cowie and Durris, and John who, in 1373, had a charter from Robert II. of the land of Wester Essyntuly, which formerly belonged to John de Dalgarnock, and had been resigned by him into the hands of the King, to be held of the King by the said John .Fraser and his heirs for payment of one silver penny yearly, in name of blench farm, at the Castle-hill of Durris. 4 The premature death of Sir William Fraser left his sons in minority, and the thanages of Cowie and 1. Robertson's Index, p. 60, No. 14. 2. Scotichronicon, lib. XIV., cap. iii. 3. Chamberlain Rolls, I., p. 280. 4. Reg. Mag. Sig., Roll II., No. 17. Durris. 5 Durris were in the hands of the Crown, in ward, as the hereditary estates of the eldest son, Alexander, till he attained majority. He appears to have been in full possession in 1 367, and two years later David II. granted him the whole royal lands of the thanage of Durris, erecting them into a free barony, to be held from the Crown by him and his heirs for three attendances each year at the Head Court of the Sheriffdom of Kincardine, and the service of an archer in the royal army. 1 He must have been ennobled about the same time, for, though not styled "Miles" in the charter of Durris, he bore that rank in the following year but one, at the coronation of Robert II. He was also appointed Sheriff of Aberdeen, in which capacity his name appears in the Chamberlain Rolls of 1369^ when Philip de Dunbreck made a payment as his lieutenant in that office which he held till 1399. On the 26th of March, 1371, he was one of the barons who attended the coronation of Robert II., and on the following day did homage to the King and affirmed in Parliament the order of the succession to the Crown. Ten years later he attended another Parliament, when a second and more precise settlement of the succession was enacted. 3 In 1375 he married Johanna, younger daughter of William, Earl of Ross, and, in June of the same 1. Reg. Mag. Sig., Lib. I., No. 229. 2. Chamberlain Rolls I., p. 506. 3. Acts of Parliament, I., pp. 181, 185. 6 Durris. year, Sir Walter de Leslie, Dominus de Ross, who had married the elder daughter, granted him a charter to about fifteen estates, which comprised portions of the parishes of Fraserburgh, Rathen, Pitsligo, Aberdour, Tyrie, and Strichen. These lands constituted the lordship of Philorth, from which he afterwards took his title. In the following year he granted to his brother John, who, as before stated, had acquired Wester Essintuly, the lands of Auchinshogill, Plady, Loncardy, 1 and others which formed part of the Philorth property. In 1387-8 John was designed of Forglen, which had come into his possession by a grant from the Abbot of Arbroath. 2 The estates bestowed by Sir Alexander Fraser were unquestionably part of those he had acquired through his marriage, and it seems for some years to have been doubtful how far it was in his power to dispose of such property, for in 1385 he gave to his brother John a letter of obligation, to the effect that he should have the whole lands of the barony of Durris in compensation, if by any legal process he should be ejected from the lands that he had granted to him. No such eviction, however, occurred, and John Fraser retained these estates, which, by the terms of the charter of 1 376, were to be held by him and his heirs as feudatories of Sir Alexander and his successors, for the delivery of a 1. Antiquities, Aberdeen and Banff, I., p. 470. 2. Ibid, p. 511. Durris, 7 pair of gilt spurs at the manor place of Philorth on each feast of Pentecost. 1 In 1388 Sir Alexander Eraser accompanied the heroic James, second Earl of Douglas, on his expedition into Northumberland, and was present at the battle of Otterburn, at which the latter was slain. Lady Johanna Ross died before 1400, as in that year a second wife appears upon the scene, in the person of Elizabeth de Hamilton, who is under- stood to have been of the family of Cadzow, ancestors of the ducal house of Hamilton. On the 2Oth of September, of the year mentioned, Sir Alexander Eraser, with the consent of the said Elizabeth de Hamilton, granted a charter to his son, Alexander Eraser, of " all the lands of the two Kynclonyes, of Balcharn, and of Balfuthachy, with their pertinents in the barony of Durrys," 2 to be held under himself and Elizabeth de Hamilton or the survivor, and under the heirs of the second marriage ; but, failing such heirs, he granted him the whole barony of Durris. In the confirmation of that charter by Robert III. in the same year, 3 and also in a second confirmation of it by James I., 4 the Alexander Eraser to whom it was granted is called the natural son (filto naturali} of his father, the granter, but the charter itself does not contain 1. Frasersof Philorth, I., p. 116. 2. Antiquities, Aberdeen and Banff, III., p. 362. 3. Ibid, p. 362. 4. Ibid, p. 365. 8 Durris. that expression, and was given " Alexandra Fraser, filio meo dilecto"' 1 As there was no issue of the second marriage, this Alexander Fraser obtained the whole lands of the barony, in terms of the charter, and was the first to take his distinctive title from the estate of Durris. Sir Alexander Fraser of Durris, and the first of Philorth, died in or before 1411, as, in October of that year, William, his only son by the first marriage, appears as Dominus de Philorth, arid in possession of the family estates. In 1404 he married Eleanor Douglas, of the Earl of Douglas's family, who had a pension granted her by the Countess of Mar and the Garioch. 2 Within the next year he received the honour of knighthood, and doubtless had considerable influence in the North. Whether he was implicated in the rebellion of Donald, Lord of the Isles, which ended abruptly in the battle of Harlaw in 1411, cannot be accurately stated, but it is significant that in October of that year he sold certain lands to Lord Forbes; that two years later he was obliged to make a further sacrifice of his estates ; and that on the loth October, 1413, he agreed to sell the, whole lands of Cowie and Durris (reserving the life-rent interest of his stepmother, Lady Elizabeth de Hamilton, who was infeft in them) " for 1. Antiquities, Aberdeen and Banff, III., p. 362. 2. Ibid, p. 576. Durris. 9 euirmare " to William de Hay, Lord of Errol and Constable of Scotland, for " a soume of sylure " before-hand in his " mykle mistre" [great necessity] to him "payit." 1 This last transaction is somewhat perplexing ; for if, as before stated, the lands of Durris had effectually passed to the natural son, Alexander Fraser, it is difficult to explain how William Fraser of Philorth could have had any patrimonial interest in them. Prior and subsequent charters, however, as well as the fact that in the Crown charter, granted to Errol two years afterwards, Durris is excluded, give ground for the conclusion that his title to that property was bad. It may be that the legal rights of Alexander Fraser were not operative till the death of Lady Hamilton, and, as she survived her husband for several years, William Fraser may have taken advantage of this to endeavour to usurp his kinsman's possession. In 1430 James I. confirmed a charter of the lands to Alexander Fraser, who is believed to have been succeeded by a son, also named Alexander, as in 1491 Sasine was granted in favour of William Fraser, who is designed as son and heir of Alexander Fraser, his father, in the lordship of Durris. Three years later the Bishop of Brechin raised an action before the Lords of Council, setting forth that "William Fresale" withheld from him I. Antiquities, Aberdeen and Banff, III, p. 364. io Durris. and the Kirk of Brechin " the secund teynd of his relief of the lands of Durris," which was claimed as belonging to that Bishopric. 1 In 1527 a bond of manrent was granted by William Fraser of Ouchterdurris, son and heir of William Fraser of Durris, to Sir Alexander Irvine of Drum, and to Alexander Irvine of Forglen, his son and heir. 2 In 1609 the proprietor seems to have been on bad terms with his neighbours, the Hoggs of Blairydrine, for in June of that year Hogg com- plained to the Privy Council that " Fraser and others to the number of fifty all armed lay in wait on purpose to slay him." Not getting the legal satisfaction expected, Hogg, in the following month, accompanied by several dependants and friends, went to the house in Aberdeen in which the Frasers were residing, " and pressed violently to enter therein," which they would have succeeded in doing had they not " been stayed by some good people." On the following day the Frasers, in passing to Old Aberdeen, were followed by the same band "with drawn swords and with bent hagbuts and pistolletes," but mischief was prevented through the pursuers being "stopped by the magistrates at the port." 3 In 1615-16 Alexander Fraser, then laird, and his son, Robert, acquired from Sir Alexander Fraser, 1. Acta. Dom. Con., p. 355 2. Antiquities, Aberdeen and Banff, III., p. 306. 3. Privy Council Register, VIII., pp. 332-3 Durris. 1 1 eighth Lord of Philorth, the lands of Cairnbulg and Invernorth, which formed portions of the original lordship of Philorth, 1 but shortly after- wards, the purchasers, who appear to have got into embarrassed circumstances, sold these possessions to Andrew Fraser of Muchal, in contravention of the conditions under which they had been acquired. Before the middle of the seventeenth century Durris also had passed into the hands of the representative of the Muchal family, who had been raised to the rank of " Lord Fraser." 2 During the wars of the Covenanters, Forbes of Leslie, whom Spalding describes as a "gryte Covenanter," occupied the Castle of Durris, and, fearing that his house might be plundered by the Royalists, he had part of his effects hidden or carried away to a place of greater security. As anticipated, the castle was soon afterwards attacked by the Gordons, who, in the absence of better fare, " g a t good beir and aill, bruk wp girnellis and book [baked] bannokis at good fyres, and drank mirrellie vpone the lairdis best drink, syne careit away with thame alss mekill victuall as thay could beir, quhilk they culd not get eitin and distroyit." 3 This was in 1639. Five 'years later the place was again visited by the soldiery, at the instance of Robert Irving, for the purpose of preventing the capture and removal of the " girnellis," which, 1. Jervise's Epitaphs, II., p. 58. 2. Frasers of Philorth, II., p. 144. 3. Spalding's Trubles, I., p. 188. 1 2 Durris. as they -contained " auchtein scoir bollis," would have tested the strength as well as stimulated the cupidity of the attacking party. Ten soldiers were left in charge, who seem to have been quite comfortable, having had ample " nolt and scheip and vther commodeties." But it was upon Sunday, 1 7th March, 1645, that Durris suffered most severely, for the Marquis of Montrose, then on his march southward, plundering and burning the lands and houses of such of the Covenanters as lay in his route, set fire to " the place, lauche bigging, and haill cornes, and spolzeit the haill ground [of Durris] ofhorss, nolt, scheip, and vther goodis." 1 In 1669 Sir Alexander Fraser, a descendant of the old family of Fraser, had a charter of con- firmation of Durris, upon the resignation of Lord Fraser before mentioned. Sir Alexander was educated at Aberdeen, and, qualifying as a Doctor, became the physician and one of the favourites of Charles II. 2 He acted as guide to that King in his expedition to Scotland in 1650, but on the 27th September of that year he, and several others described as " profaine, scandalous, malignant, and disaffected persons," were ordered by the Com- mittee of Estates to remove from the Court, within twenty-four hours, under pain of imprisonment. 3 Having amassed considerable wealth he was enabled to purchase the estate of Durris from 1. Spalding's Trubles, II., p. 458. 2. Memoirs of the Duffs, p. 140. 3. Anderson's Scottish Nation, II., p. 266. Durris. \ 3 Lord Fraser. He was much attached to the district, the air of which " he was wont to compare to that of Windsor, then reckoned the finest in England." He was twice married, and by his first wife, Elizabeth Dochty, had two sons and a daughter. The younger of his sons, Charles, translated Plutarch's Lives, and is supposed to have been the author of The Turkish Spy. 1 By his second wife, Mary Carey, he had a son and a daughter, the former of whom became Sir Peter Fraser, and was the last Fraser of Durris. By formal deed, dated I5th March, 1754, Sir Peter Fraser's widow, then designed as " Dame Ann Fraiser alias Heron," mortified twelve hundred pounds to be applied as follows: One hundred pounds to the Kirk Session of Durris on behalf of the poor ; Fifty pounds to the Kirk Session of Strachan for a like object ; Four hundred pounds to the Royal Infirmary, Aberdeen ; One hundred pounds to the Managers of St. Paul's Chapel ; Five hundred pounds to eight decayed gentlewomen of Aberdeen ; and Fifty pounds to poor house- holders of Aberdeen. By the same deed she altered the conditions of a legacy bequeathed under a previous settlement to Lady Henrietta Gordon, in respect that, Lady Henrietta having gone into a Popish monastery, there was risk of the money being " applied to superstitious uses." Sir Peter Fraser's daughter and heiress, Carey, I. Memorials Angus and Mearns, I., p. 162. 14 Durris. a maid of honour to Catherine, Queen of Charles II., married the celebrated general, Charles Mor- daunt, Earl of Peterborough and Monmouth, by whom she had an only daughter, Henrietta Mor- daunt, who became the wife of Alexander, second Duke of Gordon ; and by this means the estate of Durris eventually passed to that ducal house. 1 Immediately on the estate becoming the patri- mony of the Gordon family, extensive improve- ments were inaugurated, and have been continued ever since. The wife of the second Duke of Gordon was noted for her intellectual vigour and activity, and it was largely through her influence that an improved mode of husbandry was intro- duced into the district, and a great deal of plant- ing was undertaken. In the end of last century the estate was held under a long lease by John Innes of Leuchars, near Elgin, who was for many years sheriff-substi- tute of Kincardineshire, and died roth May, 1852, in his eightieth year. He was the father of the well-known literary antiquary and Professor of History in the University of Edinburgh, Cosmo Innes, who was born at Durris House. On the entail of the estate being transferred, under an Act of Parliament, to property in the im- mediate neighbourhood of Gordon Castle, Durris was sold in 1834 to Anthony Mactier, who was for some time a successful merchant in Madras. He I. Memorials Angus and Mearns, I., p. 162. Durris. 1 5 married Maria, daughter of Alexander Binny of St. Andrews, and died on 5th August, 1854, aged eighty-one. His son, Alexander, who succeeded, sold the estate in 1871 to Dr. James Young of Kelly, paraffin oil manufacturer, for the sum of Three hundred thousand pounds. Dr. Young was entirely a self-made man. Being born of parents in the humble ranks of life, his education had no attention, and while little more than a child he was apprenticed to the joinery trade in his native city of Glasgow. While yet a boy he became interested in the study of chemistry, and, when his slender means permitted, attended the chemical classes in the Andersonian University, which were then under the charge of Thomas Graham, who afterwards became Professor of Chemistry in the London University, and sub- sequently Master of the Mint. When Graham removed to London he carried his pupil along with him as his class-assistant. Some years were spent by Young in the laboratory of the London University, and he then removed to Liverpool, where he assumed the post of manager of certain chemical works. From Liverpool he migrated to Manchester as one of the chiefs of departments in the branch there of the St. Rollox works. When he quitted this situation, it was to proceed to Derbyshire for the purpose of working a petroleum spring, and of conducting certain experiments in the manufacture of artificial oil. These, in 1851, were crowned by complete success in the discovery 1 6 Durris. of paraffin, which has made the name of Young famous throughout the civilized world. From this, and subsequent discoveries, he became the possessor of great wealth, and was thereby enabled to purchase the estates of Kelly and Durris. He continued his chemical studies to the last, and did much to encourage the advancement of the science of chemistry. His bequests to the An- dersonian University, and the almost romantic in- terest which he took in Dr. Livingstone, are well known. He died at an advanced age on I3th May, 1883. In 1890 the property was acquired, through private purchase, by Henry Robert Baird, son of the late William Baird of Elie, in Fifeshire. The mansion house, which is built entirely of granite, is partly old and partly modern. The date of the oldest portion cannot be ascertained with certainty, but it possibly is the whole, or a part, of a mansion which had been built after the burning of the castle by Montrose in 1645, as before described. The first portion of the modern house bears the date of 1 824, and extensive additions were made to it between the years 1835 and 1838. The oldest portion is in the Scottish baronial style of architecture, and is connected with the new part by a spacious interjecting wing. This new part consists of a substantial square block, with a massive and lofty portico, and is surrounded by a low wall with ornamental iron railing. The mansion occupies a picturesque position over- Durris. 17 looking a precipitous bank of Durris dell, and commands an excellent view. It seems probable that the site of the old castle was at a distance from the present mansion house, and on an eminence near the river, which for many centuries has been known as "the Castle Hill." The policies, which extend to upwards of two hundred acres, have been laid out with great taste, and at much expense. The shrubs and ornamental trees are such as to at once attract the attention, and command the admiration even of those who are familiar with the grounds of some of the finest residential seats in the country. The shootings and fishings are very valuable, and in connection with the latter it may be stated that a salmon hatchery has been erected, where upwards of eight hundred thousand fry are now annually hatched. Upon the Castle Hill, close to the river and near to the bridge of Park, stands an octagonal tower, about eighty feet high, which was erected in 1825 by the Duke of Gordon, to commemorate his coming into possession of the estate as the heir of entail to the Earl of Peterborough after protracted litigation. Till well into the present century, educational matters in the parish seem to have received little attention. At a visitation by the Presbytery on 2Oth June, 1677, it was reported "that as yet they hade not a schoolmaster, but were to have one C 1 8 Durris. shortlie, and that the setled maintinance was four bollis meall from the heritors and two peackis meall payable by everie tennant possessor of a pleugh of land within the parochin." 1 As recently as 1807, when the population numbered upwards of seven hundred, only twenty scholars were in attendance, fifteen of whom took English only, five Writing and Arithmetic, and two Latin. The parish is somewhat meagre both in antiquarian remains and in traditional lore. There are, however, several tumuli or cairns of stones partly overgrown with heather and whins. 2 Others have entirely disappeared through the agricultural improvements of the present century. About 1832, a farmer, in trenching out the foundation of some old houses and dykes on his farm, found a number of small copper and silver coins, but none of them in a good state of preservation. From their general appearance they were supposed to be Danish. 3 About 1841, during the removal of stones for building purposes, several copper coins were found on the surface of the ground on Cairnmonearn. They were of the size and thickness of wafers, and appeared to be Scots pennies of the reign of Mary and Francis ; having a compound F and M on one side, with a lion rampant and crown upon the other, and the motto Veritas Vicit, " truth hath con- 1. Presbytery Records. 2. Statistical Account of Kincardineshire, p. 172. 3. Ibid. Durris. 19 quered." 1 At the 'Spital Croft, a reputed seat of the Knights Templars,* lying to the south-east of the church, an old bronze pot was found some years ago, which, during Dr. Young's proprietorship, was carefully preserved at Durris House. It held about half-a-gallon, and was similar in form to the old-fashioned broth or kail pot of Scotland, having three feet to rest upon, and two ears for fixing the bow or handle to. 2 After the great flood of 1829, the minister, the Rev. Robert Copland, in removing a cairn by the side of the Dee, came upon some bones, partly charred, and a number of sharp flint stones of different sizes. Subsequently, at a depth of about three feet, there was discovered a large trench, or grave, upwards of seven feet long, built with stones on the sides, and covered with three very large blocks. It contained human bones mixed with charcoal, and it was observed that part of a skull, contrary to the usual mode of interment, was placed at the east end of the grave. In the " Proceedings of the Society of Anti- quaries of Scotland" for the year 1880, it is stated 1. Anderson's Black Book of Kincardincshire. 2. Memorials, Angus and Mearns, I., p. 163. *The Knights of St. John of Jerusalem had a settlement at " the Castletoune of Durris," and in 1540 Sir Walter Lyndesay, Lord of St. John's and Preceptor of Torphichen, granted a charter of the Templar land there to John Maky, son of William Maky, who had previously held it. The proprietor of Durris afterwards acquired the property. 2O Durris. that : " On the Garrol farm, in the corner of a fir wood and near the main road, at the highest point as it looks towards Strachan, is a stone circle of sixty feet internal diameter .... Going down the valley westerly we come to Esslie farm, South. In the open plain, and in the midst of a field, is a compound circle of a remarkable character. It is slightly raised above the average of the ground, that is, the base appears as if raised a couple of feet The circle most prominent is the outer one of three, the smallest being much dilapidated, and separate from the other, i.e, not concentric. There is a trace of two lines of small stones coming from these two smaller circles and leading to each end of the lying stone, which is at the south. Outside the complete circle there is evidence of a fourth, from one standing-stone remaining." A space of seven or eight feet having been laid bare, " there were found certain black marks on the hard ground, and along with them small pieces of bone. The dark marks, in some places quite black, extended so as to be the length of a not tall human being in three cases ; a fourth was uncertain. There seem to have been three or four bodies laid so as to form a circle, within which were no black marks or bones." The chief tradition of the parish is one regarding a freebooter, called Red Beard, who is said to have lived along with his confederates in a cave on the hill ofCraigbeg (now known as Craiglug), where a spring-well called Red Beard's Well perpetuates Durris. 2 1 his title. Beyond his systematic levying of black- mail, and his dexterity in cattle-lifting, there is nothing related of him. " As in most parts of the country superstition had a firm footing in Durris in olden times ; and, according to story, it was fostered there by a pedagogue who played upon the credulity of his neighbours by occasionally personating his Satanic Majesty ! On one occasion he appeared among the rafters of the church at an evening meeting in the guise of a horned ox, with glaring eyes, and nearly terrified the people out of their wits. Mr. Reid, minister of Banchory-Ternan, being in the locality at the time, was asked to go to the kirk to lay Satan ; and it is said that, upon seeing the parson, who was remarkable for strength of body as well as of mind, ' horney' bawled out : ' What are you doin' here, Rob Reid, Wi' your hard heid? ' To which Mr. Reid naively replied : ' Whether my heid be hard or saft Come you doon, Or I'll crack your croon'." 1 A person who committed suicide by hanging is buried in the parish churchyard, but on the north side of the church, and, agreeably to an ancient be- lief, that it would be highly improper to take the i i. Jervise's Epitaphs t I. p. 106. 22 Durris. corpse of a suicide through the gateway in the usual way, it was taken over the wall. 1 THE HOGGS OF BLAIRYDRINE. THE date when this family settled in the Parish of Durris is uncertain, but early in the fifteenth cen- tury they were on terms of intimacy and friendship with the Keiths of Inverugy and Cowie. On 20th March, 1478-9, the Lords Auditors of Causes and Complaints decreed that Andrew Hogg should possess the lease and tack for life of the lands of Strabrok, granted to him by Sir William Keith, and by Sir Gilbert, his son. 2 On 23rd June, 1562, "Monane Hog" is designed as "in Blerdryne, " 3 and it is said that he received a grant of the property through the Earl Marischal, "for having courteously entertained (when but a farmer there,) King James V., travelling through that country in disguise." 4 The family speedily took up a prominent position in the district, for in certain proceedings which took place before the Privy Council in 1609, they are thus described " Miniane Hog of Bleri- dryne, Miniane and Johnne Hogis his son, William 1. Logan's M.S. Notes. 2. Antiquities Aberdeen and Banff, II., p. 401. 3. Ibid, IV., p. 598. 4. Antiquities Aberdeen and Banff, I., p. 638. Hoggs of Blairydrine. 23 Hog in Woodend, James Hog in Knappach, William Hog his son, Archibald Hog in Balbrydie, and Andrew Hog in Boig." 1 These parties had been on unfriendly terms with Thomas Fraser in " Pitcowteis," against whom, in February, 1606-7, it was complained that "on I2th August last, he and his accomplices armed with jacks, spears, swords, and gauntlets, and also with hagbuts and pistolets, came to Hog's dwelling-house of Blarydryne at night and ' dernit ' themselves all that night about his house, on purpose to slay him." 2 Monan Hog, Junior, married Jean Lindsay, and it was probably a son who married Ann Douglass, daughter to John Douglass of Tilwhilly. Certain it is that the son of the latter couple, James Hogg, who married " Margaret Skene, the only daughter of Robert Skene of Raemore," and thus succeeded to that estate, sold the lands of Blairydrine. He was born in 1661, and died in 1706, as appears from the inscription on his tombstone in the churchyard of Banchory-Ternan, on which are cut the Hogg armorial bearings impaled with those of Skene. One of the descendants of the family was Rev. Dr. James Hogg, of Skene, who died in November, 1823, aged seventy-two years. Another descend- ant was James Hogg, schoolmaster of Banchory- Devenick, 1726-71, whose son, George Hogg, was a merchant in Aberdeen, and afterwards became 1. Privy Council Register, VII., p. 319. 2. Ibid. 24 Dutris. proprietor of the estate of Shannaburn in Mary- culter parish. He built a school in Banchory- Devenick which went by the name of Hogg's School, and besides leaving a considerable sum for its support, he bequeathed One thousand pounds for educational purposes in Aberdeen. Another descendant, who had been in very humble circumstances in early youth, tending cattle on the hill of Cairnshea, went to London and entered into mercantile business there. He was thus enabled, in 1787, to leave to his native parish of Durris the sum of Five hundred pounds in the three per cent. Consols, the annual income from which he directed should be applied thus : " Five pounds to the schoolmaster; One pound to the kirk- session for their trouble in managing the fund ; Ten shillings to the session-clerk for keeping the books ; Ten shillings to the herds around the hill of Cairn- shea, to make a midsummer fire on that hill, and the balance about Nine pounds to poor house- holders not on the poor's roll." 1 The conditions attaching to this peculiar bequest are still carefully carried out, the kindling of the bonfire on mid- summer night affording much amusement to the youths of the district. I. Statistical Account of Kincardineshire, p. 177. Parish Church. 25 PARISH CHURCH. (St. Conga!, Abbot.) THE Church, which is rated in the Old Taxation at Ten merks, was for long a rectory in the Diocese of St. Andrews. 1 After the Reformation it was attached to the Presbytery of Fordoun ; but in 1717 it was annexed to that of Aberdeen, in which it still is. 2 The first parish church must have been erected at a very early period, as it is recorded in the Minutes of Visitations by the Presbytery of the Mearns, of date 2Oth June, 1677, that the fabric was " under great decay." The minister of the period, Rev. John Reid, was then instructed to approach the heritors on the subject, and nine years later it was reported to the Presbytery " that a new manse and church had been built by the heritors," and that the latter was to be maintained by them. Regard- ing this church, which was superseded by the pre- sent erection in 1822, an interesting narrative is given in Logan's MS. Notes on ChurcJies, preserved in the Advocates' Library, Aberdeen. After a brief reference to the origin of the name, the author pro- ceeds : " The Kirk of Durris is one of the few re- maining old structures long and narrow. On two of the peat stones are the letters A ' 3 ir ,. r 1. Jervise's Epitaphs, I., p. 104. 2. Presbytery Records. 26 Durris. and on another the date 1587, which shows that the church was either built or repaired by Sir A. Fraser, to whom the estate belonged. Upon the lintel of the eastmost window are the words MEMENTO MORI. All the windows and doors, square outside, are circular-headed and splayed inside, except the small one over the central door. The north wall is strengthened by massy inclined buttresses, and the external dimensions are 84 feet by 23. Inside it is 78-3 by 183. The east-end, which is separated from the part appropriated for worship by a wooden partition, and is called an aisle, was the burial-place of the ancient family of Fraser, long the possessors of Durris. In the north wall is a monument com- memorating some of these lairds, before which is a raised pavement. On the wall above are suspended the remains of a funereal achievement,* formed of woollen cloth. There is also preserved here part of the family pew, very well carved. In each end is a gallery lighted by a gable window. Access to the western is obtained by a *A " funeral achievement," or hatchment, was the term applied to the coat of arms of a deceased person, usually placed on the front of a house, in a church, or on a hearse at funerals, by which the fact of the death and the rank of the deceased might be known ; the whole being distinguished in such a manner as to indicate whether the deceased person was male or female, married or un- married, &c. The one here referred to had, in all likelihood, consisted of the arms of the Frasers of Durris. ^Parish Church. 27 stone stair outside ; to the eastern by a wooden staircase carried up in the Fraser's aisle. The church was 'pointed' in 1768, since which time it has been ' harled.' The belfry with a harp, perhaps in allusion to the psalmist praising the Lord with that instrument, is curious. There is an inscription on the pediment. An article which was used for holding the sand-glass is preserved in the church. It is formed [ ] of iron and has been carefully tinned." In 1609 the Elders were " Thomas Fraser of Durris, Robert Fraser, his brother, Thomas Fraser in Petcoutenis, James Fraser, Alexander Robertson, Adam Ramsay, Johne Scrogy, Alexander Myln in Caladrum, Alexander Myln in Maines of Durris, Alexander Doiglas in Lochtoun, Alexander Nauchtie, Archebald Dunbar, Thomas Hoig, Gilbert Collie, and Thomas Watson." 1 In 1677 it was reported to the Presbytery that there was no " mortified money belonging to the church for pious uses," and that the only " utensils and vessels dedicated for the administration of the Lord's Supper and Baptism " were " two cups of tinne, and one basin of tinne." 2 In the View of the Diocese of Aberdeen it is stated that " Durris Church has two silver chalices and one silver patten, gifted by Mr. Fraser, late 1. Presbytery Records. 2. Register of Visitations. 28 Durris. Schoolmaster there." These communion utensils, which are still in use, bear the following inscription: GIVEN TO THE CHURCH OF DURRIS BY MR. THO FRAISER, CHAPLINE AND JUDGE ADVOCAT ABOARD THE ENGLISH ADMIRALL. OBIT IN THE STRAITS OF GIBRALTERR YE 1 9 OF FEBY 1694. There are also two electro-plated communion flagons used, bearing the inscription : DURRIS, 1879. As already stated, the present church was erected in 1822, and was opened for divine service on 1 7th November of that year. 1 It is seated for 550 worshippers, and is a plain structure, but pleasantly situated. The bell bears the inscription : IOHN MO WAT. OLD ABD; FE 1/65 IN USUM ECCLESI/E DE DURRIS SABATA PANGO, FUNERA PLANGO [John Mowat, Old Aberdeen, made me in 1765, for the use of the church of Durris. Sabbaths I pro- claim, funerals I toll.] MINISTERS. 1420. Hugh Wells, Rector. He also acted as I. Session Records. Ministers. 29 Vicar of Nigg, but was excommunicated by the Bishop for seizing, as belonging to his vicarage, the tithe of fish caught in the river Dee. In 1430, on acknowledging his fault, he was absolved and re- instated. 1 1480. John Kyd, Vicar. 3 1487. William Crychtoune, Vicar. 3 1513. Alexander Galloway, Prebendary. 4 1568. George Fraser, Minister. 5 He entered at Lammas, and held a salary of 8. 6s. 8d. It is understood that he was a relative of the Frasers of Durris. 1574. Archibald Hogg, Minister. He was possibly a relative of the Hoggs of Blairydrine. 8 I 595- James Irving or Irvine, son of Alexander Irving of Beltie, admitted during this year. In 1599, he had " Kinarny " also in charge. 7 1 60 1. Alexander Youngson, translated from Skene, and admitted this year. The congregation complained to the Presbytery that he was non- resident with them, and only came and preached on alternate Sundays. Of date 1 5th January, 1602, he was ordained to " mak his residence at the kirk 1. Macfarlane's Transcript, p. 32. 2. Antiquities, Aberdeen and Banff, III., p. 361. 3. Ibid. 4. Fasti Aberdonenses, p. 72. 5. Collections, Aberdeen and Banff, p. 226. 6. Jervise's Epitaphs, I., p. 104, and Scott's Fasti, VI., p. 498. 7. Scott's Fasti, VI., p. 498. 30 Durris. at Witsondaye." His stipend was 11. 2s. 2fd. sterling. 1 16 William Youngson, Minister. 1655. William Reid. He was elected one of the Ministers of Edinburgh in 1662, but declined acceptance. 1676. John Reid, formerly Schoolmaster of Banchory-Ternan, appointed successor. He took an active part in fomenting the rebellion of 1715, for which, and for contumacy, he was deposed in the following year. He died prior to 2nd April, 1728.2 1717. Robert Melvill, son of the Rev. Francis Melvill, Minister of Arbuthnott, thereafter one of the Ministers of Aberdeen, was licensed by the Aber- deen Presbytery in June, 1716, and was ordained 3ist January following. He acted as Clerk to the Presbytery, and, in his absence, on 28th February, 1747, the manse was broken into by five notorious robbers, led by James Davidson,* who carried off 1. Presbytery Records, &c. 2. Scott's Fasti, VI., p. 499, and Register of Visitations of Presbytery. * The career of this notorious robber, who was a native of Brechin, deserves notice. While a youth he became a private soldier, but deserting, joined the rebel army of Prince Charles. After Culloden he seems to have taken to thieving on an extensive scale, manses and school-houses receiving a special share of attention. In the beginning of February, 1747, he and his con- federates robbed the Manse of Kinnell of Twenty-four pounds, the Manse of Farnell of Ten pounds and the Minister's watch, and the House of Kinnaird of silver and other articles to the value of Ministers. 3 1 many valuable effects, including Session ?nd Pres- bytery records. For this, and other grave offences, Davidson was afterwards executed and hung in chains. Mr. Melvill, who died on 29th May, 1758, was twice married : first, to Isabella Fordyce, daughter of Provost George Fordyce, of Aberdeen, who died in 1719, and secondly to Janet Greig, who died in 1752. Two sons, Francis and John, were the founders of a great mercantile firm in Amsterdam. 1 1759. Alexander Leslie, son of James Leslie, I. Dingwall Fordyce, I., p. 1015, Black Calendar of Aberdeen, Presbytery and Session Records. Fifteen pounds. These robberies were the work of one night. On the following day the Manse of Fettercairn was visited, but the Minister defended it gallantly and for some time kept Davidson a prisoner, but he was released by his associates, who terminated, the exploits of the day by burning the school-house. On the 28th of the same month the Manse of Durris was broken into and every- thing valuable carried off. The Minister at the time was unfortunately from home, otherwise the depredators would have had some trouble with him, as he was a very powerful man. They next robbed Mr. Harper, the Schoolmaster of Durris, of Thirty-five pounds. Other thefts followed, in the perpetration of one of which Davidson was apprehended. The sentence that he should be "executed and thereafter hung in chains" seems to have been not uncommon in the case of great robbers. His exploits attracted much attention at the time, and the "Aberdeen Journal," in noticing the apprehension, calls him "the famous Mr. Davidson." It may be of interest to add that one of the volumes stolen out of Durris Manse was " Ye Presbytrie Buik of Aberdeen begun ye 20 day of October 1598 and continued to 14 June 1610." The book ultimately fell into the hands of the Faculty of Advocates, Edinburgh, and was carefully preserved in their Library till June, 1891, when it was delivered up to its original owners, the Presbytery of Aberdeen. 32 Durris. Minister of St. Fergus, licensed by the Presbytery of Deer, was ordained on 5th April. He was translated to Fordoun on loth October, 1771, and died there, I5th September, 1807, in his 74th year. 1 1772. William Strachan, ordained on pth April. 2 1823. Robert Copland, ordained by the Pres- bytery of Fordyce, 22nd July, 1814, as a Missionary at Enzie, was inducted at Durris on 3