ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/architecturaldraOOhickrich ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS By I. P. HI CKS. A. comprelTLensive treatise on archiitectural drawing for building meclnan.ic», showing the learner how to proceed step by step in every detail of the work:. DAVID WILLIAMS, 232 to 238 William Street, New York. 1897. i^^^ CONTENTS Drawing Instruments, . Kive Room Cottage, .... Drawing the Kloor F*lans, Dravs^ing the Elevations, Drawing the Details, Tracing Drawings, DraA^ving a Stone and. F^rame D>A^elling, Lesson in Oiatlining, Hints on. Planning, . . . . Stair Work, .... Kramin^g IPlans and Elevations, Architectural Perspective, DraAiving Perspective Figures, Use of Hight Lines, Eoreshorteniiig, . . . , . Carpenters Tool Chest in Perspective, Elevations in Perspective, PAGE. 1 8 12 12 24 32 36 S5 55 57 64 73 75 T8 82 86 PRKKACB. The pages which comprise this work have been prepared with a great deal of care, in the belief that there is need of a thorough treatise on architectural drawing for me- chanics, showing the learner how to proceed step by step in every detail of the work. The examples given as lessons in drawing embrace a wide range of work, and it has been the aim of the author to select only such figures for practice as are most likely to meet the wants of working mechanics. The popularity with which Hicks' Build- ers' Guide has been received has brought many letters of inquiry which have been convincing proof of the wants and needs of mechanics for a work of this kind. No pains have been spared to make it practical for those who desire to profit by self instruction. Every subject treated has been made plain and easy to comprehend, and it is believed the work will prove the keynote to success for those desiring instruction in this branch of the building trade. To one seeking information of a practical nature, the selection and arrangement of the matter within these pages cannot fail to supply the student with a fund of knowledge not easily obtained in any other work. Thanking the readers for their many kind and favorable expressions of the work as published serially in the columns of Carpen- try and Building, it is now condensed into convenient space for guidance and instruc- tion, and is committed to their use, trusting that it will be favorably received. The Author. Omaha, Neb., 1897. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS. The subject of architectural drawing is one of no small interest to the practical mechanic in whatever branch of the building trade he may be engaged. Carpenters, contractors and builders are often called upon to furnish plans, especially of medium and low cost buildings which are not considered of suffi- cient importance to warrant employing the services of a professional architect. It is in connection with this class of work that a practical knowledge of drawing is particu- larly valuable to the building mechanic, for he who understands drawing sufficiently to take a rough sketch of a floor plan and draw it up in practical shape, presenting the corre- sponding elevation with the details necessary to carry out the design in a comprehensive manner, is the man who, as a rule, readily secures and retains the public confidence. The one who understands and can make the working drawings for buildings has a decided advantage over a competitor possessing little or no skill as a draftsman. The ability to 1 draw up a plan after the manner of an archi- tect has the effect to gain for the draftsman the favor and confidence of his patrons in a way that seems to assure them he under- stands his business, and therefore is the more competent to do the work. Thus in cases where competency is required the lowest bid- der does not always stand the best chance in the race for a job. This, and the fact that a knowledge of drawing is necessary to enable workmen to take a set of architects' plans and work from them understandingly, has brought about a desire on the part of many to learn the art of drawing. A brief and comprehensive treatise on the subject, giving the practical instructions necessary to carry the work to a successful issue, has long been felt to be desirable. Many books and articles have been written on the subject, but for the most part they have been far from meeting the wants of car- penters and contractors engaged in the gen- eral building trade. Many have been disap- ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS, pointed in books, partly because they have not been as practical as could be wished, but more especially because the readers failed to put into practice the principles and ideas which the books illustrated and described. In order to obtain the full benefit from a work of instruction on any subject, it is neces- sary to verify what is taught by practice, and this is assuredly the fact in regard to draw- ing. Practice is the most essential point toward the ' advancement and success of the draftsman in the art of drawing, and without it the best books and articles are likely to prove a failure. It will not answer to merely read the instructions and to look at the exam- ples given ; a few ideas may be gained by this course, but to acquire the art and be- come proficient in it will require practice. It is the only successful method to pursue, and, therefore, I say to those who are seek- ing instructions in drawing, take up the rule, pen and pencil and begin practice at once by making the drawings given in connection herewith as lessons in drawing. It is not necessary to illustrate and describe all the tools and appliances used in drafting, as this has been done time and again, until every carpenter and contractor is familiar with them ; therefore, I will only describe a few of the most essential tools and appliances used in practice. A drawing board, i6 x 24 inches, will be large enough for convenience in making the drawings given as lessons, and also large enough for many other purposes. For be it known that a large drawing board for small work is more or less inconvenient and undesirable. In my opinion it is better to have two or three sizes to meet the vary- ing requirements of large and small work. Drawing boards should be made of soft wood, with all angles right angles, so that the T square will work properly from any one of its four sides. The T square is an in- dispensable tool in the draftsman's outfit, and it is very desirable to have several sizes. A 20-inch blade will meet the requirements of these lessons, but in practice much longer blades will often be required. The cost of a good T square, 20-inch blade, is not great — say about $1 — and in selecting one I would suggest Deane's patent adjustable head. Triangles are very handy and convenient to use in connection with the T square and can be employed to advantage in many ways. Triangles may be had for 25 to 75 cents each, according to size. In the way of other tools I would recom- mend a small case of German silver instru- ments of a good quality, containing 4^ -inch dividers, with pen and pencil points and DRAWING INSTRUMENTS. 8 lengthening bar, drawing pen and protractor, the cost of which does not need to exceed $4, although the draftsman can, if he desires, procure a $15 set of instruments. Drawing rales are among the necessities that go to make up the draftsman's outfit, and of these he should have several at his disposal. The architect's triangular scale is the king of all rules for setting off the scale measurements of drawings, after which they may be finished by drawing the lines with the aid of the T square, triangles, common rules or straight edges. I do not advocate a general use of the triangular scale with which to draw lines, for the reason that it is a costly rule, very finely and accurately marked, and to make a general use of it in drawing lines would have a tendency to obscure the fine divisions of the rule and thus impair its use- fulness in setting off accurate measurements. The rule should never be used in drawing ink lines, but can be used for drawing the pencil lines necessarily required in outlining a plan, if it is desirable to do so. These remarks are more especially to warn the draftsman against the indiscreet use of a costly rule, which might soon impair its use- fulness or spoil it entirely. The cost of tri angular scales is from $1.50 to $5. They are made in 12 inch and 24-inch lengths, the 1 2 -inch length being the one in general use. Thus, it will be seen that the draftsman's outfit for drawing need not cost more than $7 to $10. The drawing boards, T squares, triangles and straight edges he can make for himself, thus confining the expense to the case of instruments, the triangular scale and common rules. The author began practicing with a 15 cent outfit,, consisting of a common rale and lead pencil. By the aid of triangles which I made myself, I was enabled to square drawings from the rule, draw the horizontal and plumb lines and finish up the drawing comparatively easy. I merely mention this so beginners will not get the idea that a costly outfit of tools is required ; but to all who can afford it I would say do not retard your progress in drawing by trying to get along without the necessary tools, as it is a waste of time and poor economy. In reference to the triangalar scale, it is necessary that the draftsman should become familiar with the different scales represented. This necessity will not be felt so much in copying the drawings here given as lessons as in the making of original drawings. In this the draftsman will soon discover that mental calculations are constantly coming up, and to compute the distances and set them off readily and accurately on the drawing re- ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. quires a thorough knowledge of the drafting scales. Before proceeding with the instruc- tions in drawing we will give a brief descrip- tion of the triangular scale and its uses. By- referring to Fig. I the shape of the triangular scale will be plainly seen. In shape an end section presents the form of an equilateral triangle, traversed lengthwise with a semi- circular groove. This particular shape gives the rule six planes or surfaces, on which the different scales are marked. The shape of the rule permits of the marking being plainly visible to the draftsman, and is specially adapted for making the scale meas- urements of drawings with the great- est accuracy. On the six planes of the rule are marked 1 1 scales, which we will take in their regular order. First one plane is graduated to six- teenths, which, of course, can be used in drafting to represent the scale of 1-16 inch to the foot. The other ten scales are marked on the remaining five planes in pairs and in the following order, 3-32, 3-16, }i, %, ^, %, ^, I inch, lyi inches and 3 inches, to the foot. Placing the rule in position for drawing or setting off measurements we very naturally use the opposite edge from the one facing us. This will be plainly seen by taking a rule and placing it in the position of Fig. i, which will bring the scales of 3-32 and 3-16 in proper position by which to draw lines and set off measurements on the drawing. When in this position the scale of 3-32 inch to the foot will be found figured on the plane from left to right and the scale of 3-16 inch to the foot, which is a multiple of 3-32, will be found fig- ured from right to left, in the semicircular groove just above the plane. The scales each have at their starting point 3-32 and 3-16 respectively, graduated to sixths and twelfths, for setting of fractional parts of a foot, as in representing inches. l^jUgj^^^^jUlf / f / ? §IIMaMmMMMluliMIMiliUUMUMIiMiUi n iiiiniRinE Fig. 1.— Broken View of a Triangular Scale. Referring to Fig. i we find the following scales shown : At the left end, top plane, i }4 inches to the foot ; right end, same plane, 3 inches to the foot ; left end, bottom plane, }4 inch to the foot and right end, same plane, I inch to the foot. Thus it will be plainly seen that the larger scales are just twice the smaller, and being represented on the same planes the graduations of the smaller scale represent halves of the larger scale and thu DRAWING INSTRUMENTS. work in harmony when properly understood and applied. It will be noticed that the fig- ures of the ^-inch and i-inch scales appear wrong side up, but when the rule is turned end for end, as it should be used in drawing by these scales, the figures will appear right and as follows : The ^-inch scale will be found figured from right to left on the plane and the i-inch scale figured from left to right just above the plane in the semicircular groove. Thus in setting off distances by the inch scale, if }4 foot was wanted the drafts- man could readily locate it by the divisions of the J^-inch scale figured on the plane. All the other scales on the rule are figured in like manner. The scales being figured dif- ferently and in opposite directions the liabil- ity of making mistakes or getting the scales mixed is avoided. In setting off measurements from any of the scales always start from the figure o of the desired scale for even feet, and if a frac- tional part of a foot is wanted, count off such part on the fine divisions of the scale and start from this point, then the figures on the scale will represent the feet and inches. For example, the J^ -inch scale has 3^ inch gradu- ated as follows : i. The long lines divide the scale into fourths, which represent 3 inches. 2. The next longest lines divide the scale into twelfths, which represent inches. 3. The short lines divide the scale into twenty - fourths, which represent }4 inches. Thus by this scale the draftsman can carry his scale measurements to a point indicating j4 inches. Now if it were required to set off 6 fest 9 inches by the scale, count off 9 inches from the o mark on the scale, which will be the third long line to the right, then start from this point with the measurement and follow the scale marked on the plane to the left to 6, which will give the measurement of 6 feet 9 inches. Proceed in like manner in setting off measurements by any of the scales found on the rule. It is not necessary to de- scribe the graduations of all the scales, as to understand the working of one is sufficient to enable the draftsman to readily become famil- iar with the divisions of them all as they all embody the same principle, and it is just as easy to draw by one scale as the other, with the exception of cases where the fine scales bring lines so close together that they cannot be drawn distinctly. We will only describe the graduations of the 3 -inch and X-iiich scales to show the contrast and what it is possible to accomplish with the scales. The 3 -inch scale will be found graduated as follows : i. The long lines divide the scale into twelfths, which 6 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. represent inches. 2. The next longest lines divide the scale into twenty-fourths, which represent half inches. 3. The next longest lines divide the scale into forty-eighths, which represent quarter inches. 4. The short lines divide the scale into ninety-sixths, which represent eighth inches. Thus by the y Fig. 2.— Crown Molding and Fascia Drawn to a Scale of 3 Inches to the Foot. scale of 3 inches to the foot the draftsman can carry his scale measurements to a point indicating the eighth part of an inch, which is as fine as required in ordinary practice. Referring now to the J^-inch scale, which is the one generally used in making elevation drawings, we find it graduated as follows : The long line divides the scale into halves, which represent 6 inches ; the next longest lines divide the scale into quarters, which represent 3 inches ; the short lines and finest divisions of the scale divide it into twelfths and represent inches. Thus by this scale the draftsman can carry his scale measurements to a point indicating the inches in elevation drawings, which is about as fine as it is possi- ble to draw the lines. The architects' trian- gular scale is calculated for fine work, and with it the finest of calculations in drawing can be made. As previously shown, the fine divisions of the ^-inch scale graduated to Fig. 3.— Crown Molding and Fascia Drawn to a Scale of )4, Inch to the Foot. twelfths make it possible in drawing by the scale to represent an inch on the plan. By the division of % inch into 1 2 parts an inch would represent 48 parts ; hence one of these parts is really the forty -eighth part of an inch, and comes very nearly, if not quite, being finer than the ordinary draftsman can distinctly draw the lines. Thus it will be seen that in drawing elevations great care will be necessary to keep all parts in accord- ance with the scale. For example, to repre- sent the fascia and crown molding of a cor- nice in its usually limited space requires some DRAWING INSTRUMENTS. fine work. The space usaally required for the fascia and crown molding of a cor - nice on the average dwelling is from 5 to 7 inches. In this case we will call it 6 inches to make it easy for beginners. According to the scale, 6 inches would be represented by }i inch in the drawing. Now we have only }i inch space in which to draw the lines necessary to represent the fascia and crown molding, and as each member of the fascia and molding requires a line to properly show its profile, it would require at least five paral- lel lines to represent a very plain fascia and crown molding. To draw all these lines in the allotted space is about as fine work as the average draftsman is capable of doing. For example, we will draw the fascia and mold- ing on a scale of 3 inches to the foot in order to distinctly show the different members. Referring to Fig. 2 it will be seen that it requires i }4 inch space to show the profile of fascia and molding. To show all these lines in an elevation in the small space of }i inch is no small task, and this is only one example out of inany that arise in architectural draw- ing. Fig. 3 represents the fascia and molding drawn to J^-inch scale. In drawing eleva- tions occasionally a line is left out and slight deviations are sometimes made. This is the reason details drawn to larger scales are necessary, in order that the workmen may be enabled to carry out the design to the true meaning and intent of the architect. In making the elevations to the ^-inch scale the draftsman should work to the scale and keep the proper proportions as much as pos- sible, and such parts as cannot be properly shown in the elevations should be represented in the details drawn to larger scales. A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE. In the selection of examples to serve as lessons in drawing we have chosen for the subject the plan of a five-room cottage of medium cost. This selection has been made in view of the fact that the architectural draw- ing of medium and low cost dwellings is much sought after by the average mechanic. To acquire the art of making these drawings in a practical manner the learner must be shown how to proceed step by step. To look at a finished drawing the learner may get but a faint idea of the actual work and method of procedure. The full benefit of lessons in drawing can only be fully demon- strated by showing some of the work in dif- ferent stages of completion, with a proper description of the method of proceeding from start to finish, and requiring the learner to exercise his skill and talent by duplicating the work. The art can never be successfully acquired without practice, and these lessons have been especially designed to supply the much needed practice. It has been the practice of Carpentry and Building to present floor plans to a scale of I -1 6 inch to the foot and elevations y^ inch to the foot. These scales are almost too fine for practical architectural drawing, yet for publication purposes they are more con- venient than the larger scales. Should the floor plans and elevations accompanying these lessons appear to the 1-16 and ^ inch scales, it is specially requested that in the course of practice the draftsman draw the floor plans to ^ or ^ scale and the eleva- tions to }{ scale, as by so doing he will ac- quire the art of drawing in a more thorough manner, because he will be compelled to make calculations for himself, and the art of calculating goes hand in hand with drawing. No one can successfully make drawings with- ®ut calculations. The division and propor- tioning of the scale to different parts of the drawing are continually going on ; therefore to enlarge the drawings to ^ inch scale will in reality give the draftsman better practice than would be derived by copying them line for line by the smaller scales. After the drawings have been successfully made to the ^-inch scale it would be well for the drafts- A FIVE-BOOM COTTAGE. a a 1 B A [ CELLAR 13'x 21' u? m ] s * "1 Fig. 4.— Method of Drawing Foun- dation Plan.— Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. ' Fig. 5.— The Foundation Plan Completed. W Fipr. (>.— Portion of Front of Main Floor Plan, Showing "Windows, Doors, etc.— Scale, H Inch to the Foot. Fig. 7.— Front of Main Floor Plan Drawn to a Scale of 1-16 Inch to the Foot. 10 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. man to draw them to the ^-inch scale, as it will have a tendency to increase his accuracy in measuring and proportioning drawings, while at the same time it will extend his capabilities as a draftsman. The first practice in drawing should be executed with a pencil, and it is quite as well not to attempt the use of ink until the learner has acquired a fair knowledge of pencil draw- ing. In the selection of pencils never choose soft ones, as they will not hold a point fit for drafting, and the crumbling of the lead is sure to work into the paper, giving the draw- ing a dirty, grimy appearance. A hard pencil is best, as with it fine clean lines can be made. In making a drawing the outlines are the first consideration and should be made very light, so that in case an error occurs it can be easily erased. It is very likely, and more than probable, that beginners will make some miscalculations, and in drawing lines they are likely to draw past the stopping points or cross lines running on other angles and representing some other part of plan or design. It is necessary that the draftsman watch the work closely and acquire the art of starting and stopping at exactly the right point. This is one important feature in re- gard to drawing and a very essential one in re- gard to pen drawing. After the outlines have been correctly drawn the work can then be traced of redrawn, making the lines plain and distinct and completing the drawing through- out in a permanent manner. In regard to paper, it is unnecessary to have any particu- lar kind, as any good quality, with a hard, smooth surface will answer for ordinary prac- tice, although drawing paper is preferable. Having now given a general idea of the essential points in drafting we will proceed with some examples for practice, beginning with the foundation plan of a dwelling. The foundation plan is the plan of the cellar walls, foundation walls, piers, etc., and is usually very easily made.. The starting point in outlining a drawing in nearly all cases should be at the front left hand corner as at A, Fig. 4. The draftsman should work around the plan from left to right, although it is not necessary to adhere strictly to this rule. For example, the draftsman has sev- eral calculations to make in outlining the plan, particularly the front, which forms many angles. Starting at A, draw the lines to B, representing the front, then from A draw the lines representing the left side, rear and right side as A C D B, which completes the outline of the foundation wall. The next step is to set off the thickness of the walls, draw the inside lines and partition walls of A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE. 11 the cellar, if any are required. The inside lines of Fig. 4 are so plain and easily under- stood that an explanation is unnecessary. In drawing the inside lines the main point to ob- serve is to first draw all the lines representing the cross walls, making due allowance for thickness of walls, so that when the side wall lines are drawn the foundation walls will be complete. As a finished drawing does not show the method of proceeding as well as one partially finished, we will leave Fig. 4 in its present form showing the draftsman how to start, how to proceed and how to calcu- late the thickness of walls in order to locate the starting and stopping points in drawing the lines. Referring to Fig. 4 it will bo seen that to complete the walls all that is necessary is to draw the lines representing the side walls. We will now proceed to fin- ish by locating and setting off the chimney, piers, and girder under floor joists, cellar window frames, cellar stairs and piers for porches. This being done the drawing has the appearance of Fig. 5 and completes the foundation plan. Girders under floor joists are generally represented by dotted lines, as shown. Our floor plan and front elevation show two chimneys, but as one is intended to start from brackets on the partition wall only one will appear on foundation plan as drawn. Great care should be given to locating chim- neys, so that they can be built plumb from their foundation to the finish. In many large cities there is an ordinance prohibiting the building of crooked chimneys in any form. In order to explain a few points in regard to doors, windows, etc., we will present a portion of the front wall of the floor plan drawn to a scale of j{ inch to the foot. Re- ferring to Fig. 6, windows are usually de- signated by two lines drawn through the opening, as shown at W ; outside doors are represented by one line usually drawn on the outside wall line, as shown at D. The way a door is intended to swing is designated by a line drawn on an angle, as shown. Inside doorways are represented by open spaces in the partitions with no lines across. The angle lines are frequently used when the draftsman wishes to specifically indicate which way the doors shall swing. Arches are indicated by dotted lines across the opening, as shown at the bay window. Fig. 6. They are also usually marked " arch," as shown. To contrast the difference between an architect's working scale drawing and one as usually prepared for publication, the reader is referred to Fig. 7, which shows the front wall of the floor plan drawn to a scale of 1-16 inch to the foot. 12 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. DRAWING THE FLOOR PLANS, As the draftsman has now been given an explanation of the primary principles and method of drawing plans, we will presume he is ready to advance another step in the art, and we will proceed to the floor plan in full. Referring to Fig. 8, first draw the outside wall line, set off the thickness of walls, locate the joining partition walls, and draw the lines, as shown. Having the wall lines drawn, the next step is to locate the doors, windows, chimneys, etc., which are repre- sented by the short marks across the parti- tions. It will be noticed that in drawing the partition lines they have been drawn across the door openings, and also some of the lines cross at the junction of partitions where they ought not to. The advantage of drawing them this way in outlining will be plainly seen, for by having the outlines of all the partitions in sight the draftsman is better able to make calculations and locate doors, windows and chimneys in the most desirable manner. It should be remembered, how- ever, that the outlines are to be drawn lightly with a pencil, then when we are ready to fin- ish we can easily erase all superfluous lines, thus showing just where to start and stop when drawing permanently with the pencil or pen. This can be done a great deal easier and quicker than to make all the calculations before drawing the outlines ; besides there are often several doors and partitions in suc- cession to cause confusion in locating exactly the points of starting and stopping. We will now take Pig. 8, and erasing the lines across the door openings and joining partition walls will finish permanently, when it will have the appearance of Fig. 9. By comparing Fig. 8 with Fig. 9 the draftsman will be able to note the change that has taken place in the lines better than words can ex- press it. In addition to the change made by the openings we have drawn a few more lines, finishing the stairs, sink, etc. , and indi- cating the shelves in pantry and closets, making the plan complete. In Fig. 10 is shown the method of drawing the roof plan. The inside lines represent the outside line of wall plate and should be drawn first. Next set off the width of the cornice and draw the outside lines. Locate the hips, valleys, ridges and chimneys and finish complete, as shown. DRAWING THE ELEVATIONS. In the usual course of architectural draw- ing the elevations come next, and very natu- rally they are the most complicated of all to make and appear as an insurmountable diffi- A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE. 18 I I. D D [ I I. I I I I T r D 1 g I I Fig. 8.— Method of Outlining the Floor Plan.— Scale, J6 Inch to the Foot. 14 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Fig. 9.— Appearance of Floor Plan when Completed.— Scale, % Inch to the Foot. A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE 15 Fig. 10.— Showing Method of Drawing the Roof Plan.— Scale, H Inch to the Foot. 16 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. culty to beginners in the practice of drawing. As a rule, all things become easy or compara- tively so when we know how to proceed, and with proper instructions we hope those who desire will be able to readily master the difficulties usually met with. We will now start on the outlines of the front elevation, Fig. II. Some may prefer to start from bottom of the foundation and build up, but we have found it more practical in drawing elevations to take the bottom Une of the sill as a starting point from which to make the required calculations. It is always easier to calculate hights in an elevation from bottom of sill up, especially frame buildings, and for the hight of foundation it is no trouble to calculate from the bottom of the sill to any hight it is. desired the foundation should show above the ground line. Hence we will take the bottom line of sill as a starting point and draw the line A B. Set off on line A B the width of front gable, as A C. Calculate the entire hight from bottom of sill to top of roof line, as shown by the scratch marks D, E and F, and draw the perpendicular lines A D, C E and B F, representing the main comers, but do not draw them quite to the point D, E and F, as these were calculated to the top of roof line, and the lines of the cor- nice must come below these points. It is easier and more practical to finish drawings from the top down, and when the lines rep- resenting the cornice are drawn they will in- tersect the perpendicular lines of the main corners in the elevation. This will be read- ily seen by comparing the unfinished work of Fig. II with the finished part of Fig. 12. It will be noticed that if the perpendicular lines were drawn full to the scratch marks we would have to cross these lines to finish the cornice, which, of course, would not be a proper thing to do. For convenience in out- lining, the lines can be drawn lightly with a pencil and in full to the points D, E, F, and the part where the lines cross can be erased before finishing. This is a good way to do, as it shows the draftsman just where to start and stop when inking or tracing the drawing permanently. The points D, E, F are also the points from which to calculate the roof elevation, the amount for projection being added on at the bottom, as shown. After drawing the outline of roof locate and draw the outline of the chimneys. The latter can always be readily located from the floor plan. For example, the front chimney passes out the roof by the side of the left wall plate, while the kitchen chimney passes out the roof about 7 feet from the outside line of the right wall plate, which locates it where shown. A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE. 17 Chimneys that do not come out the highest portion of a roof should always be con- structed somewhat taller than the ordinary chimney to insure them a good draft, and also for the protection of the roof against fire. It sometimes happens that roofs affect the draft of chimneys, hence the top of a chimney should be nearly as high as the roof through which it passes. Observe that the front chimney top is about on a level with the front gable roof and the kitchen chimney a little above the comb of the main roof. Chimneys which extend above the roof much more than the ordinary hight should have an anchor rod put in, as shown. The next step is to set off the width and hight of bay win- dow from bottom of sill to lower edge of fascia. Set off width of crown molding and fascia, pitch of roof, and draw the lines as shown. Next set off the outlines of the small win- dow in the gable. In setting off the outlines of a window or door compute the extreme width and length, including casings, sill and cap, and draw the outside lines as shown. It is more practical to finish a frame from the outside, working toward the center, than any other way. The drawing of doors and win- dows will be more fully illustrated and ex- plained in the details. The next step will be to outline the porch, which in all cases should be done before drawing the outlines of any doors or windows that appear under cover of the porch, because it very often happens that a portion of a door or window frame is partially concealed from view by some portion of the porch ; hence the only proper method is to draw the porch first. Then, when the frames are drawn it will be plainly seen just what portion, if any, of them will be hid from view, and there will be no occasion for crossing lines. In most cases the bottom of the porch frieze hides the view of the head casings of frames that ap- pear under cover of the porch. This feature is noticeable in almost every elevation of house design, and there seems to be no avail- able remedy for it. The only plan would be to make the porches higher, and this cannot always be done for lack of space, and, again, extremely high porches look out of propor tion and are equally as bad, if not worse, than hiding the head casings with the porch frieze. In the elevation the porch frieze covers the head casing, as will be plainly seen by referring to Fig. 12, which shows the work in a more finished state. The next step will be to set off the hight of foundation. Draw the ground line, space off the number of risers required and draw porch steps. 18 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Czz] Fig. 11.— Method of Outlining Front Elevation.— Scale, % Inch Fig. 12.— The Front Elevation Partially Finished.— Scale, % Inch to the Foot. to the Foot. A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE. 19 Fig. 13.— Appearance of Front Elevation when Completed.— Scale ^ Inch to the Foot. FijT. 14.— Sectional View of Framing and Foundation.— Scale, 14 Inch to the Foot. 30 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. The three parallel lines full length indicate the base and water table, which extend around the elevation on a line with the porch, as shown. Trusting that a fair idea has now been given of the method of outlining and starting the elevation, we will next proceed to carry the work on to a more advanced stage of completion. Having made the outlines as in Fig. II, proceed by drawing the gutter on the roof and finish off the hips. Next draw the lines representing the crown molding and fascia of the main cornice. Draw the gable ornaments, then the line representing bottom of frieze, and finish corner casings down to water table line, as shown. Next finish the attic window. The bay window will be next in order. Finish the lines of the crown mold- ing, fascia and frieze. Draw the corner and middle casings down to water table line. Set off and draw window sills and finish by drawing window casings, sash and panels tinder windows. Next we will take the porch and front door. Draw the lines representing the crown molding, frieze and columns, and finish the door frame, as shown. We will omit some of the details of the porch and bay window finish in this drawing, leaving the balance of the work for the drawing as it will appear when finished. It is better for beginners to see the work at different stages of comple- tion, as it gives far better ideas of the method of proceeding. The next step will be to show the work in a finished state by taking Fig, 12 as we have just left it and proceeding step by step to the finish, when it will have the appearance of Fig. 13. In finishing begin at the top and work down. Chimneys are usually the up- permost portions of drawings, although there are many exceptions in this particular. In this case finish the chimneys down to the roof line to represent the brick. It is not necessary to accurately scale every course of brick unless the chimney is of some special artistic design, in which case it would be necessary to have a detail drawing of it show- ing its entire construction. On common chimneys the size and total hight are ob- served in the drawing, the architect puts in a few lines to indicate the brick, and that usually finishes a chimney. We will now finish the roof. Begin at the top and make parallel lines to represent the roof. It is not necessary to scale the lines to represent the exact number of courses of shingles. It is usually understood and specified that the shingles shall be laid a stated amount to the weather. If there are any belt courses of A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE. 21 ornamental shingles, then there should be a detail of the roof drawn to a suitable scale. Next finish bay window and porch roofs and finish down to the foundation, putting in the brackets and all ornamental finish, as shown. The siding comes next, and should be spaced according to the scale as nearly as practicable what it is to be laid to the weather. If pos- sible always space to come out even at bottom and top of frames. In drawing the lines con- siderable care will have to be given the work in order not to draw across casing lines, porch columns and other parts of the finish. Drawing the siding lines is good practice ; it aids very much to insure accuracy in starting and stopping at just the right points. The next and last step is to finish the foundation down to the ground line. In this case we have drawn the foundation of stone, ' which is usually represented by somewhat irregular lines, as shown. We have now finished the front elevation, giving it the general appearance of Fig. 13. We present in the next illustration, which is Fig. 14, a sectional view of the house, showing the size of timber, manner of fram- ing, hight of cellar, hight of foundation above grade, hight of main story and attic. This drawing is so plain and easily understood that only a brief description is necessary. Taking A as a starting point, draw the bot- tom line of sill, then computing the hight of cellar and hight of frame to top of plate, draw the outside wall line from bottom of cellar to top of plate. Set off and draw out- line of rafter from the plate. Next set off thickness of timbers and draw in the follow- ing order : Sill, outside wall studding, rafter, ceihng joist and collar beam. Set off the thickness of the cellar wall with proper foot- ing, hight above groimd line, and draw the lines as shown. Mark the hights of cellar, ceiling, attic and of headers to window open- ings, as shown in the outside wall. The front elevation was given at considerable length, showing every detail from start to finish, but we do not intend to go into the matter so thoroughly in regard to the side elevation. We have given the method of proceeding, and now present Fig. 15, showing the side elevation as it would appear in a finished state, hoping that those of the readers who may be considered as students in drafting will accept it as an example for practice and draw it to the best of their ability after the manner described in connection with the front elevation. To aid the draftsman in making the side elevation we have just a little in the way of information to offer. After having the paper 22 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. S ■ I ' ' I' i !| ' 1 I , i , I . I , I , I . I , I , I . I . I . I . < . t . 1 . 1 . I . I . i ^& Rg, 15.— Appearance of Side (Right) Elevation Completed.— Scale, % Inch to the Foot. A FIVE-ROOM COTTAGE. 23 fastened on the drawing board place the front elevation on it and to the right, so that the T-square will reach across both drawings. The result of this is that it establishes the hights for many parts of the side elevation and they can be transferred without making so many measurements. For example : The hights of porch, bay window, foundation, roof, chimneys and many other parts will all appear the same whether we look at the front elevation or the side elevation and consequently certain parts may be more accurately transferred in the manner above described. DRAWING DETAILS OF A MODERATE COST COTTAGE. The next lessons for practice will be with the details, which are portions of the eleva- tions drawn to larger scales to aid the me- chanic in carrying out the design, and are usually such parts as cannot be properly shown in the elevation. Some of these de- tails will serve as the very best of lessons for practice, therefore it is to be hoped that the learner will give his best attention to the in- structions that follow. We will now consider the details of a window frame for a two-light window, 24 X $6, casings to be 5 inches wide, with molded head casing and cap, scale }4 inch to the foot. Referring to Fig. 16 we first draw the outlines, then set off the thick- ness of the sill, width of molded cap and the casing lines. The parallel line which extends around the inside of the frame next to the casing line represents the blind stop, and at the bottom of the frame it is the subsill. Next set off the thickness of sash, as shown. The two narrow inside lines represent the glass and putty lines. The division line of the sash extends across the frame from the blind stop lines. We have left Fig. 16 partially finished in order to show more clearly the manner of proceeding. It will be noticed that the per- pendicular lines of the sash have been omit- ted. This has been done in order to show that after the outlines of the frame are made the next thing in order is to draw all the hori- zontal lines, or at least all that can be con- veniently drawn, finishing the perpendicular lines last. Fig. 17 shows the frame as it appears in a finished state. It would be im- possible to correctly represent all the lines of this drawing in an elevation drawn to X-inch scale, and in elevation drawings the fine lines are usually left out. The blind stop lines are frequently drawn, but not necessarily re- quired in the elevations. In Fig. 1 7 we have drawn all the lines to show how a frame and window should appear when correctly com- pleted. Fig. 18 represents the front door and frame partially drawn. Fig. 19 shows the work finished. The drawings indicate so plainly the method of proceeding and being similar to what has already been described, with reference to Figs. 16 and 17, that further de- scription is unnecessary. 2i DRAWING DETAILS OF A MODERATE COST COTTAGE. yig-. 16.— Outline Indicating Method of Draw- ing Window and Frame.— Scale, }4 Inch to the Foot. Fig. 17.— The Window and Frame Completed —Scale, 3^ Inch to tUe Foot. 36 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Fig. 18.— Method of Drawins: Front Door and Frame. Fig. 19.— The Door and Frame Completed. Scale, \'i Inch to the Foot, DRAWING DETAILS OF A MODERATE COST COTTAGE. 27 A detail of the bay window drawn to a scale of ^-inch to the foot is shown in Fig. 20 of the engravings. The description and method of drawing the bay window was so thoroughly explained in connection with the front elevation that by comparing Fig. 20 with Fig's. II and 12 the draftsman will readily understand the course to be pursued. A vertical sectional view drawn to JE^^-inch scale, which will serve as an example for practice, is shown in Fig. 21. We will not give any prescribed method in drawing this figure, believing that it is just as well sometimes for the student to study the drawing and work out the method of pro- cedure for himself. In explanation of the meaning of some of the lines we will say that the outside space represents the middle or comer casings, the second space the outside window casings, third space the sheeting, fourth space the studding, the fifth space the plastering and the sixth space the inside cas- ing. The sections representing the headers, head casings, sills, etc., are plain and easily understood. Fig. 22 represents a horizontal section, drawn to a scale of i inch to the foot, and shows very plainly the sections of the work through the bay window. In the en- graving M C indicates the middle casing, O C the outside casing, B the blind stop, J the jamb and I C the inside casing. The other parts are fully explained by the word- ing. Fig. 23 is a detail of porch finish, drawn to a scale of i inch to the foot, and is so plain that little description will suffice. The ornaments in the frieze and comer bracket are simply open spaces. The par- ticular point in this drawing, to which it is desired to call the attention of the draftsman, is the side and face views of the cornice bracket and the manner of showing the dif- ference in appearance. Figs. 24 and 25 are details of the main cornice and of the work in the front gable, drawn to a scale of i inch to the foot, and need no further explanation. They will serve as examples for practice in drawing details. A detail of the inside finish, drawn to a scale of i^ inches to the foot and showing the face and sections of base, plinth block, casing and comer block, is presented in Fig. 26. We have now completed the details of our house plan, but before concluding our lessons in drawing we wish to give a few examples for practice, to represent a class of work that has not been shown. Fig. 27 rep- resents the shingling of a gable with round and octagon butt shingles, drawn to a scale of }4 inch to the foot. To execute such de- signs on a small scale is a very difficult task. ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. ^\N U\N\VS-N^ |-^Vnv. I^xsn- |ix.-~-\\-. f-^^s. I ^^;^^^^^~ /-^;;sr~t^v |-J;^»>^:^.^ | ■""S^- ■^-^^^^yc^-^ h^\^ h^^*^ l^ssSNv- |».\v |^-\\\\v |\\^ ^-y ( s-N-^^-xx,V i^^^^rj; h- h^^- h - h- •^^^sN\\" KV!x Jl Fig. 30.— Detail of Bay Window.— Scale, M Inch to the Foot. Fig. 21.— Vertical Section of Bay Window, Showing Gen- eral Construction.— Scale, J4 Inch to the Foot. DRAWING DETAILS OF A MODERATE COST COTTAGE. 29 The method of dfawing may be described as follows : After making the outlines of the finish down to the space required for shin- gles, space and draw lightly the lines repre- senting the courses. Then, for the round butts, draw lines to use as centers in describ- ing the circular lines, as shown by dotted lines in the engraving. For the octagon butts draw lines representing the depth of the octagon cut, as shown by dotted lines, M.C. Pig. 22.— Horizontal Section of Bay Window, Showing Casings and General Construction.— Scale, 1 Inch to the Foot. and finish as indicated, drawing the perpen- dicular lines last. After this has been done erase the superfluous pencil marks and trace the drawing permanently. A more expedi- tious and, perhaps, a better method to pursue with such work is to make patterns showing the profile of the bottom line of courses, as shown by Figs. 28 and 29. These patterns can be made of thin sheet brass, or even of cardboard, and will be found a great help in regard to speed as well as in keeping the work uniform. There are many small pat- terns of this kind that can be made to do good service in the way of helps and aids in drafting. Fig. 30 shows an octagon plan of a bay window, and Fig. 31 the elevation, drawn to a scale of % inch to the foot. Figs. 30 and 31 have been presented with a view of show- ing how to give a drawing the octagon ap- pearance. This bay window is of the same general style as the square one previously shown, with but few exceptions. In this it will be seen that the window sill miters around the comers and the corner casings extend from frieze to sill and from sill to water table, instead of extending from frieze to water table, as shown in Fig. 20. It will be noticed that the side rail of the sash on the side windows does not show on the side next to the middle window. The reason for this is obvious when the plan is properly considered. Looking at an octagon bay window squarely from the front the casings of the frame hide this portion of the sash. In representing the brackets the draftsman has a regular picnic, and it is no small task to do the work properly. As will be seen by referring to the elevation, we have three views of the brackets. Directly in front we LlBn^ UNIVERSITY Of „.T:Tr_,„i ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Pigr. 24.— Detail of Main Cornice.— Scale, 1 Inch to the Foot. Figr. 23.— Detail of Porch Finish.— Scale, 1 Inch to the Foot. DRAWING DETAILS OF A MODERATE COST COTTAGE. 81 Pigr. 25.— Detail of Gable Finish— Scale, 1 Inch to the Foot. Fig. 26.— Detail of Inside Finish, Showingr Faces and Sections of Base Board, Plinth Block, Casing and Corner Block.— Scale, IJ^g Inches to the Foot. 32 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. get a face view, while next to either side we get kind of a half -face and half -side view. To the extreme right or left corner we would get a full side view of the bracket were it not for the fact that it is partially- concealed by one of the side brackets. This drawing shows that there is a great study in architectural drawing and that much depends upon the judgment and skill of the drafts- man. In fact, there are many things that come up in drafting that are very difficult to represent on paper. The draftsman has to form an idea of how the drawing should look to represent certain things ; then study how to draw them, and lastly and most essen- tially, practice the art. TRACING DRAWINGS. We will now give a few instructions in regard to tracing drawings with ink. First, the draftsman wants a rule specially pre- pared for the work. Any common rule can be prepared for the purpose in a few min- utes. Fig. 32 shows the shape of rule as used with the drawing pen, the same to be used with the beveled edge down. The idea of this is to prevent the rule touching the paper at the very edge of the ink line. When the rule and ink line touch the paper at exactly the same point, it is very difficult to move the rule without making blots. The rule slightly beveled and used in the manner above described is a sure preventive to blot- ting the work if anything like ordinary care is exercised. In regard to the position of the pen it should be held with the flat side of one of the nibs to the rule, and very nearly in a perpendicular position. The ink commonly employed is Higgins' American drawing ink, prepared ready for use. This ink dries quickly, the lines can be made very close together, and the rule moved around over the paper almost as fast as desired. The draftsman seldom has to wait more than a few seconds for the ink to dry. In regard to filling the pen, there is a quill with each bottle of ink designed for the pur- pose. Our advice is to pay no attention to the quill method of filling the pen. It is too slow and bothersome. Dip the pen right in the ink, and then with a piece of cloth lightly wipe off any ink that remains on the outside of the nibs of the pen, as it would come in contact with the rule and otherwise might cause trouble. Always try the pen on a piece of paper before starting a line to see if it is working properly. On account of the quick drying qualities of the ink it frequently dries on the pen, thus stopping the flow of ink. DRAWING DETAILS OF A MODERATE COST COTTAGE. 33 Fig. 27.— Method of Drawing Ornamental Shingles in Gables.— Scale, J^ Inch to the Foot. 34 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Fig. 28.— Pattern for Shingle Work. Fig. 29.— Another Shingle Pattern. fsWV'.'VA'.VV'uikj^v, ^ Fig. .'^2.- Shape of Rule for Use in Inking Drawings. ^ ^ Figs. 30 and 31.— Plan and Elevation of Octagon Bay Window.— Scale, M Inch to the Foot. DRAWING DETAILS OE A MODERATE COST COTTAGE. This is particularly bothersome, especially in making very fine lines, and the nibs of the pen have to be frequently wiped off and adjusted. Therefore we repeat, be sure the pen is working right every time before you start a line, and then know just where you want to stop the line when you start it. This is about all there is of inking and drawing. Remember to make all drawings lightly with the pencil first, then ink the same lines over. If any superfluous pencil marks remain they can be easily erased with a rubber, which will have no effect on the ink lines. To ink a drawing on architects' tracing paper, place the paper, which is transparent, over the pencil drawing, and the lines will show plain enough to be easily traced. We have now passed through a full descrip- tion of the manner and method of making architectural drawings. The subject is one of such wide range and the work that comes up from time to time so varied that perhaps no definite rules can be laid down that will meet the requirements in all cases. No two architects would be likely to pursue exactly the same course, yet they would arrive at the same results. To illustrate and describe all phases of the art would make a book seem- ingly without end. In these instructions in drawing we have given the draftsman the principles, method of starting and his course of procedure to the finish. By faithful prac- tice and study of the art he will steadily im- prove, acquire the proper use of the tools and better judgment as to the methods of pro- ceeding in difficult cases. These points must necessarily be left to the judgment of the draftsman as they come up from time to time. Experience and practice will prove of valuable service in the art, and gain for him a knowledge of drafting that can be acquired in no other way. Therefore let him bear in mind that suc- cess in the art depends largely upon a faith- ful adherence to the simple words of study and practice. DRAWING A STONE AND FRAME DWELLING With a view to bringing out new phases of the subject, we next choose for consideration a large two-story stone and frame residence, with tower, octagon and round corners, as well as many other features calculated to produce a wide range of work and give the student the largest amount of study and prac- tice possible to obtain from a single example. The basement and outside stone walls of the building are to be i8 inches thick up to the sscond floor, except the partitions of the basement, which may be 8 -inch brick walls. All outside and partition walls of the frame part are to be of the common 4-inch stud- ding, which, with the lath and plastering, makes about a 6-inch wall. The difference in the thickness of the stone walls and the frame partition walls causes a little study in the laying out of the rooms, in order to pre- vent the offsets in the walls making undesira- ble corners in the rooms. In preparing the floor plans shown in Figs, 33 and 34, the draftsman will see how easy it would be for 86 this feature to show itself, and yet by a little study in the way of planning it will be noted how easily it has been avoided. The study of planning and designing goes hand in hand with the drawing, and if one is to draw prac- tical plans every detail of the work must be thoroughly studied. The first consideration in starting the work is the number of rooms to be provided, and the size or an approximation thereto, as it is not always possible to deterniine just how a plan will work out on the start. Draw the outlines in pencil so as to take in the desired number of rooms ; then study how to divide them in the best possible manner for light, heat, size and general convenience. It will frequently happen that the general outline will need to be extended at some points and contracted or drawn in at other places ; hence the outlines and general arrangement are the first points to consider. After these have been pencil-sketched and the plan has assumed a tangible form, it can then be per- DRAWING A STONE AND FRAME DWELLING. 37 Fig. 33 First Floor. Fig. 34.— Second Floor. Scale, l-lt> luch to the Foot. 38 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Kg. 35.— Foundation. Fig. 36.— Roof Plan. Scale, 1-16 Inclj to the Foot, DRAWING A STONE AND FRAME DWELLING. manently drawn. The first-floor plan is usually the first consideration, and from it the other plans are correspondingly arranged and drawn. The first-floor plan represented in Fig. 33 shows a few points not covered in previous work. For example, the burners for lighting are represented by a small circle and cross, indicating that the building is to be lighted by gas or electricity. The circles and crosses in the middle of the rooms are center lights from the ceilings, and those in the bedrooms are side lights from the partition, these being usually arranged about 5 feet apart to accom- modate a dressing case, thus giving a light on either side. The boiler in the kitchen for supplying the house with hot water is shown near the chimney. In this connection atten- tion is directed to the location of the bath- room on the second floor. It will be found directly over the kitchen, making the connec- tions short and direct — a special feature of the plumbing that should always be consid- ered. It lessens the labor and expense, while giving better service generally, to locate bath- rooms as near as practicable to the water supply. The house is arranged for steam or hot water heating and the little rectangular spaces in the different rooms represent the lo- cation of the radiators. By comparing the first and second floor plans with the base- ment plan the general arrangement of the pipes will be seen. A special feature of this plan is in locat- ing the radiators so that as many lines of pipe as possible may be carried parallel with each other to the different rooms. This results in a con- siderable saving of time and money, as well as obviates the necessity of a great deal of joist cutting, which is often the case where the pipes are widely scattered. In the parlor, on the first-floor plan is shown the method of representing a fire place and mantel. The small circles at Fipr. 37. — Section Showing Hights of Stories, Windows, &c.— Scale, a Inch to the Foot. 40 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. the outside of plan represent the down spouts or conductors for carrying the water from the gutters on the roof. The basement plan, Fig- 35, shows the general arrangement of the laundry, boiler room, coal bins, etc. The dotted lines outside of the plan show the outside dimensions of the foundation wall. The outside lines to the left and front show the size of the wall over all, which is 36 X 45 feet. The next set of Hnes shows the different divisions or the lengths of the wall from angle to angle. The total of the different divisions must equal the extreme length of wall on each side respectively. The drawing sets this forth so plainly that further description is unnecessary. It is obvious that by this method of drawing a plan a mistake in measurement is almost im- possible. The roof plan is shown in Fig. 36, the dot- ted lines indicating the wall plate and the outside lines the projection of the cornice. The other lines represent the hips, valleys and ridges, and are easily understood from the drawings. It will be observed that the octagon end of the left gable is finished square from the roof plates, having large brackets to support the projecting comers, thus giving a wider range and diversity of work, so that the draftsman may have a bet- ter chance to exercise his skill and talent in the art of drawing. A sectional view showing the hights of stories, hights of windows above the floor, lengths of windows, etc. , is presented in Fig. 37 of the engravings. The heavy shading or diagonal Hnes indicate the principal sections of the wall up to the top of the second story. Different sections should be drawn at varied angles, so as to show them more distinctly. This will be found especially valuable in rep- resenting members which join in close con- nection, as shown at A of the engraving. W T represents the water table, W the main wall, S sill, and J the jamb of frame and sub- sill. The hight or length of a window is represented by the distance between sill or subsill and head jamb, as shown. For exam- ple, take the first floor. We find the hight of story 10 feet between floor and ceiling ; to the top of lower jamb or subsill i foot 8 inches ; hight of window, 6 feet 6 inches. In making the ordinary calculations for win- dows, 6 inches in length is usually allowed for the sash and 4 inches for width ; 3 inches are allowed for bottom rail, i inch for meeting rail and 2 inches for top rail, making a total of 6 inches to be added to the length of glass. The side rails are 2 inches, making 4 inches in width to be added to the glass measure DRAWING A STONE AND FRAME DWELLING. 41 Fig. 38.— Front Elevation, Showing Method of Shading, &c.— Scale, H Inch to the Foot. 42 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOE MECHANICS. Thus a two-light 24 x 36 window will require an opening, exclusive of the jambs or frame, 2 feet 4 inches by 6 feet 6 inches. These figures are presented in order to give a httle information as to the manner of calculation. The frame part of the building starts from the second floor, and the general arrange- ment and construction will be readily under- stood from the drawing. In making the drawing, first draw the outside perpendicular wall line from bottom to top ; then set off the thickness of walls, and proceed to draw the joist lines, floor and plaster lines, divi- sion lines of the different members and sec- tions, and hights of windows and ceilings, leaving the section shading for the last. In figuring a drawing, as in setting off the hights, make the figures before inking the line, which will leave them plain and dis- tinct. The sectional drawing must correspond with the elevation as regards the hights of windows, sections, etc. It does not make any material difference which is prepared first if proper calculations are made. By making the sectional drawing first the pro- portioning of the windows to the hights of stories is much easier, because it shows the exact position of the windows as regards the hights on the inside, while the elevation shows the general arrangement and appear- ance on the outside. Generally the elevation is drawn first and the section drawn to correspond, as it is not always easy to tell from the section just the hight at which a window will look best in the elevation, and a few inches difference on the inside is immaterial ; but it must be borne in mind that the section and elevation must correspond, no matter which is made first. The best way for the draftsman is to make both the section and the elevation at the same time, on the same sheet and in the same line. Leave room to the left of the elevation for the sectional drawing and sketch the elevation ; then sketch the sec- tional drawing and they will -be in proper shape for comparison. Any changes in the planning and proportioning for improve- ment in general arrangement and appear- ance can be readily seen and made before the inking and finishing of the dravv^ings. The front elevation of the design is pre- sented in Fig. 38, and, as in a former por- tion of this work, the manner of sketching and finishing an elevation step by step has been shown, we will not repeat the details at this time, but submit the elevation as an ex- ample for practice, calling attention only to the features worthy of note. Working draw- Of DRAWING A STONE AND FRAME DWELLING. 43 ings do not necessarily require anything more than plain lines ; but as drawings for pub- lication are frequently embellished with more or less shading to give the design an artistic appearance, attention will be directed to a few points on shading. Shading is not one of the necessary requirements, but by proper shading a more pleasing effect to the eye can be produced, and the draftsman who can dis- play the most artistic skill, combined with other qualifications, is most likely to meet with success. Therefore it is hoped that the few ideas which may be presented will prove but the starting of work which the readers will carry out much better than here indi- cated. We will give the ideas, but the man- ner of best presenting them in drawing can only be acquired by study and practice. The starting point of the elevation is taken on the line A B, which is the bottom line of the stone base or water table. The stone below this line may be considered the founda- tion walls, and the shading is represented by somewhat irregular diagonal lines — a com- mon way of representing stone foundations. The block stone above the water table is shaded with diagonal parallel lines, every stone not being shaded, but taking them in an order that prominently distinguishes the corners and openings of the building and obviating the plainness in appearance which would otherwise result. The slightly irreg- ularly curved lines on the corners shown from course to course of the stone indicate that the stone are rock faced. If the stone were square faced the corners would be rep- resented by a straight line. In the windows the deep black shading represents the glass, while the scallops ex- tending through the windows in a somewhat diagonal manner indicate lace curtains. The two windows to the left in the drawing do not show the right side sash rail, for the rea- son that this portion of the wall is an octagon corner, and in a direct front view this por- tion of the sash is hidden. The roof, how- ever, on this octagon end has been framed similar to a square or plain gable roof, and the projecting corners are supported by large curved brackets, as shown in the elevation. It will be noticed that the roof of the tower is cross lined and appears finer toward the outlines, so as to indicate circular construc- tion. Having now briefly referred to a few points on shading, it is suggested that the draftsman increase his knowledge in this particular direction by closely studying archi- tectural designs as presented in first-class architectural journals. Referring now to Fig. 39, the right side ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Fig. 39.— Side (Right) Elevation, Showing Parts of the Work in Different Stages of Completion.— Scale, ^ Inch to the Foot. DRAWING A STONE AND FRAME DWELLING. 46 elevation, we will show the several parts of the work in different stages of completion, believing this to be the best method of clearly indicating the plan of procedure. As before stated, the design should be first sketched in pencil, in doing which it is often necessary or convenient, at least, to make some superfluous lines or marks to aid in setting off different parts of the work, but which are not required in the finished draw- ing. These lines are often necessary in making calculations, and in order to show their usefulness and distinction all such will be represented as dotted lines in Fig. 39. It should be borne in mind that all the work is first sketched in pencil, while in the com.- pleted drawing only the lines required arc inked, after which the superfluous lines, rep- resented as dotted lines, may be erased. By closely following the sketch step by step the draftsman will soon become familiar with this work, as a portion of every part, both in a finished and unfinished state, will be shown. The starting point is from the line A B, the bottom line of the stone water table. After this has been drawn set off the hight of the foundation above grade and draw the ground line, as shown. Next set off the angles shown in the plan on the line A B ; compute the hight at the top of rafter or roof at the wall plates and draw thok plumb lines of the corners. As the cornice extends below the top of these lines, the portion which extends through the cornice lines is indicated by dotted lines. The tops of these lines, as shown by C, D, E, F, G, are the points from which to make the calculations for the eleva- tion of the roof, and after establishing these points compute the hights of roof at the essential points and draw the general profile of the roof in outline, taking the gables, ridges, hips, valleys and cornice lines. Next outline the finials, cresting, chimneys and gutters. The dotted plumb line showing center of tower and the portion of dotted hip line joining at D plainly indicate that it is necessary to locate this point in order to correctly represent the roof. By comparing Fig. 39 with the first-floor plan it will be seen that the dotted plumb line virtually repre- sents one of the main corners of the plan, but the tower being built out on this comer from the second floor would of course hide the line from view, consequently it should not appear in the finished work. Attention has been called to this simply as one case perhaps out of hundreds where the drawing of temporary lines will aid in making calcu- lations and completing the permanent draw- ing. After these temporary lines have served xiesE THE UNIVERSITY Or 46 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. their purpose they should be erased before inkirig or finishing the work. The dotted Hnes shown in the drawing of the front chim- ney and finial on the tower indicate their use- fulness again in shaping and setting off the different parts of the work. The next step is to locate and outline the upper windows. First find the proper hight for bottom of sill and draw the line which will represent the bottom line of frames. Locate the windows on this linj and set off the thickness of the sill. Next set off and draw the size of the opening, allowing for thickness of subsill in the hight. Set off the width of casings, cap, etc., and draw the lines finishing the frame, as shown in the upper right corner of the elevation. The manner of drawing the sash in the frame is plainly shown by comparing the finished win- dow with the unfinished one in the double frame at the left. This method of setting off and drawing frames will be found easier and better than the one set forth in an earlier part of this work, as the draftsman is not obliged to make calculations so far in advance of the work. The method referred to is the outlining and drawing of frames, and shown in Fig. 1 1 of a previous article. The next step in the progress of the work is the outlining of the porches, -second-story base, first-story frames and so on down to the ground line. Having the building now thoroughly out- lined, we will proceed to finish portions of the different parts, so that the learner can see more readily just how to proceed. We will not go through with the finishing step by step, as we believe that the work, as shown in Fig. 39, is presented so plainly that further description is unnecessary. It will be sufScient to say that in finishing begin at the top and work down, which avoids to a great extent rubbing the tools and hands over the finished work, and will aid very much to keep the drawings looking neat and clean. A LESSON IN OUTLINING. For a lesson in outlining which will present a few new features in drawing the attention of the student is directed to Fig. 40, repre- senting in outline the left side elevation. It will be noticed that this view of the plan presents an octagon end from the ground line to the eaves, finished with a square gable, the projecting corners being supported by large brackets. This is a form frequently met with in practice, and will therefore serve as a valuable lesson to those who wish to make a special study of the art of drawing. Begin- ners are liable to grasp the idea that an eleva- tion showing an octagon design should be represented by drawing the side lines of the octagon on a slight angle, as shown by the dotted lines next to the ground line. If this were the case, then all the parallel lines on these sides would necessarily have to be drawn on the same angle from the ground line to the starting of the roof. Such a course as this -would give the drawing a rather crooked appearance. It should be re- membered that all horizontal lines shown in a direct face view of an octagon elevation are 47 to be drawn straight across all sides, as shown. The miter lines shown so distinctly in the perpendicular lines representing the corners plainly indicate the portion of the elevation having the octagon form. We do not consider it necessary to give more than a brief description of outlining this elevation, believing it best to leave the greater portion for the study and practice of the learner. First draw the base line, set off the corners and then draw the perpendicular lines of the corners. Calculate the hight to the eaves and draw the bottom line of roof — not the cornice line, but the shingle line, for example. Next compute the hights of roof, gables, etc. , and draw the outline of the roof. Locate and sketch the chimneys, then the cresting, finials, etc. It will be noticed that a comparatively small portion of the front chimney is visible in this elevation, for the reason that as viewed from the left side the roof hides a portion of the chimney. The same is also true of the tower, only a small portion of the top and the finial being visible from the left side elevation. 48 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. \ 7 \ 7 I I I I ( ( VI7 ] r "I Fig. 40.— Side (Left) Elevation in GJeneral Outline.— Scale, H Inch to the Foot. A LESSON IN OUTLINING. 49 These points serve to show- that the plan and corresponding elevations have to be carefully studied and watched during the entire prog- ress of the work. In the sketch is shown a portion of the cresting, fin- ished, in order that the diflEer- ence in the views from the right and left sides of the same may be dis- tinctly seen, as in one view the tower appears in front of the cresting and the other show s x«„ Ai ^^ -1 « -o T. ov what would be rig. 41.— Detail of Porch, Showing Method of Drawing the Different the expoScd por- Members.-Scale, % Inch to the ,^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ O O cresting. These points will be plainly seen by comparing Figs. 39 and 40. In outlining the gutter the lower portion is represented by dotted lines, because in the finishing the . short perpendicular lines representing the small brackets should be drawn before draw* ing the horizontal lines between the brackets. This is plainly shown in Fig. 39. After outlining the roof the next in order will be the cornice, such as the molding, frieze, etc. Some advantage can be taken by drawing the parallel cornice lines at the same time the eave line is drawn, as they are in close connection, and all that is necessary is to make proper calculations in doing the work. The next step is to draw the base and water table lines which mark the division of the two stories so distinctly in this drawing. Next calculate the hight of windows to the bottom of sills and draw the lines which are to represent the bottom line of windows. From these lines set off and draw outlines of windows, as shown. We think now that the details of outlin- ing have been made sufficiently plain to enable any one to go to work understand- ingly and complete the drawing. "We would recommend that as a lesson for prac- tice nothing could be better than for the learner to complete the imfinished work 50 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. shown in Figs. 39 and 40 in a manner similar to the work shown by Fig. 38, using a scale of not less than ^ inch to the foot. Fig. 41 shows a portion of the porch finished in de- tail to the scale of yi inch to the foot. First draw the base and floor lines, then two per- pendicular lines representing the column. Set off the hight from floor to bottom of frieze and draw the bottom line of porch frieze finish, which will give good starting points for all future calculations. From the bottom line of frieze finish the different parts may be readily set off to top of roof. From the floor set off the hight of the railing and draw horizontal lines first, spacing and filling in as shown. The turned portion of porch column may be easily drawn by spacing and setting off the hights of the different mem- bers, as shown. The sectional parts show the general construction of the work. The spin- dles are ball turned and set between square upright pieces, as shown. For general prac- tice we would suggest that such details be made on a scale of ^ inch to i inch to the foot. We have now passed through the sev- eral parts of the work of making a set of plans which bring to notice a very wide range of work in the art of drawing, and if the learner has thoroughly mastered the work thus far he is qualified for further advancement. DESIGN FOR STORE FRONT. It is hardly necessary to go into all the details of outlining the elevation, section and plan of the store front, as we believe suffi- cient has been said upon the subject to enable the learner to study the work which will now be presented and to master it without other suggestions than a few brief instructions. The knowledge gained by the practice and experience of working out the several parts of the drawing for oneself will be far more beneficial to the learner than to have men- tioned every little detail, many of which have been thoroughly explained in connection with other drawings. We will, for the most part, take up such portions of the work as possess new features. A special feature to which we wish to call attention is the corresponding lines of width and hights in the plan of the front and sectional view as compared with the elevation. The drawing. Fig. 42, is a combination of the plan of front, sectional view of the walls, etc.^ and the elevation, and it shows plainer than words can describe the relation one part bears to the other. It 51 shows very plainly how to draw the elevation in accordance with the plan "of front and to carry up with the greatest degree of accuracy and convenience the section corresponding with the hights shown in the elevation. By this method mistakes and discrepancies in the different parts closely connected are avoided. In order that the learner may start aright, it may be stated that the sidewalk line in the drawing is the most favorable starting point, and it will be found easy to make calculations from this line in any direc- tion necessary to complete the work. The sidewalk line is the base line of the eleva- tion, therefore set off on this line the width of the building and square down sufficiently to draw the plan of the front. Draw the outline of the front and the thickness of the wall ; then set off the doors, windows, col- umns, etc., as shown in the plan. The dot- ted plumb lines show how to carry up the front in accordance with the plan. The loca- tion of the second-story windows, as a matter of fact, necessarily has to be in accordance 53 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. DESIGN FOR STORE FRONT. 53 with the front of the second-floor plan. The circular dotted line on the left corner of the plan of the front has been drawn to show how to get the required projection of the oriel window, built out from the second floor. i^ hMNH PARLOR ASITTING ROOM ii'x 13' Ay 10 ex 13 -^^ - fcHI=1 Fig. 43.— Plan of Second Floor, Showing Special Features of Planning - Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. This is plainly indicated by the long dotted plumb line. The starting of the support to the projecting window is from a point plumb over the center of the octagon comer in the plan. This, of course, makes the outside scroll appear more elongated than the inside scroll. The window being round and start- ing on the side of an octagon corner accounts for this appearance, and a little study of the plan and elevation will make this point clear to the mind. By comparing the elevation with Fig. 43, the second-floor plan, it will be observed that either a direct front view or a direct side view of the plan would show us three win- dows or part of three windows in either a front or side elevation. In the front eleva- tion there is in reality more of the outside window shown than is in strict accord with the second-floor plan. This point will serve to impress upon the mind of the draftsman that it will often require his closest attention in comparing drawings and his best judg- ment in executing the work to keep the pro- portions in accordance with the point of view taken of the plan and elevation. Of the sec- tion showing bights of ceilings, etc. ^ very lit- tle need be said. It should be sketched with the elevation as a guide to correspond with hights of windows, floors, etc. The first-floor hight shows a section of the store front sash. A section in line of the doors would be slightly different, as double transoms have 64 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. been provided in order to lessen the hight of the doors, as shown. This store front is designed with heavy cut stone columns from base to the I-beam. From the top of the I-beam the columns are continued with block stone to the cornice line and a stone coping is run across at the bot- tom of the second-story windows. The oriel window, tower and cornice is of frame con- struction, although the same design can be executed in sheet metal on a wooden frame work. The body of the work is to be of brick, as are also the arches over the win- dows. The caps to the windows are to be galvanized iron. There are no brick lines drawn in the elevation, as these will be left for the practice of those who wish to still further carry out the design and improve upon it. HINTS ON PLANNING. We will now gfive a few hints in regard to planning, a feature which should also com- mand the attention of good draftsmen. Small and irregular shaped rooms should be avoided. All rooms should have square cor- ners if possible ; projecting corners and re- cesses should not appear in a plan unless caused by a chimney or a bay window. There is nothing nicer than plain, square cornered rooms, especially when it comes to the carpeting and furnishing. Octagon cor- ners should generally be avoided ; also three- cornered closets across the comers of rooms. A much better way for such closets is to allow a little more room in a hall or some other part and build the closet out from the room, as shown on the floor plan. Fig. 43, This circular form gives a much better shaped closet by avoiding the sharp comers, giving more room and leaving the rooms with all square corners. There is also plenty of room left in the hall. Long and narrow halls should be avoided, also steep and crooked stairs. The architect and designer should plan to reach as nearly as possible all the rooms on 55 each floor from the main hall and to use all the room to the best possible advantage. In the floor plan is shown the method of marking where transom frames are used in the interior ; thus 2' 8" x 6' 8" T 12" means that the transom to be used should be 12 inches in hight. The elevation shows the method usually employed in mark- ing size of windows and the figures give the glass measure. STAIR WORK. We will next touch upon the subject of planning, laying out and drawing stairs. Everybody knows that many a time too little room is left for the stairs, and the result is steep and awkward stairways in what are supposed to be the better class of houses. Much of this is due to ignorance or careless- ness on the part of the designer to make a few figures. It is too often left in this way : ' ' I guess so much for stairs will be plenty. ' ' The best way is to figure it and make sure that there is plenty of room. For the benefit of those who are young in the work of plan- 56 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. ning w^ will show by sketches how to deter- mine the amount of room required, and also give an easy method by which to solve the problem by figures. Referring to Fig. 44, which represents a straight flight of stairs, we find the rise as given from floor to floor to be 10 feet. By computing the risers at 8 inches we find that it takes 15 to reach the top floor. It will be seen that we calculate space for only 14 steps, as the fifteenth lands on the floor. Next we calculate the run required for 14 steps. These we have estimated at 10 inches each, making the run 11 feet 8 inches, as shown. The rise and run of stairs are always taken as laid out on the string board, the projec- tion of the step for nosing and molding, as shown at the bottom step, not being counted. From the top of the third riser to the ceiling is 7 feet. Plumb over the third riser, and facing it, we have located the header, giving 7 feet head room for the stairs. From this header we count the number of steps back, allow for thickness of riser, an inch or so for work room, and we have the distance between headers, or the length of the well hole, as it is sometimes called. In this case it is 10 feet 3 inches. The sketch shows very plainly how to figure the stairs with a certainty as to the room required, and the same general plan will hold good in any case. The sketch shows an easy pitch. Stairs are frequently run much steeper, but for good work we advise plenty of room for easy stairs. If it is desired to figure it without a draft, commence at the foot of the stairs, proceeding as follows : First Fig:. 44.— Diagram Showing Method of Drawing and Calculating for Stairs.— Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. find the number of risers required, then de- cide upon the amount of head room wanted and see how many risers can be deducted from the hight of the ceiling and leave this room. The space required for steps up to this point will be one step less than the number of risers, and all that is necessary is to count the HINTS ON PLANNING. 57 steps, lay them off on the floor and start the header plumb over the back edge of the last step, or as nearly so as practical. Fig. 45 shows the method of laying out and drawing the plan of winding and platform stairs with a portion of the fram- ing for the floor joists, headers, etc. To find the exact floor space required for the stairs, lay off the run of each step according to actual scale measurement, as shown. It Fip. 45.— Method of Drawing, Calculating and Framing for Winding Stairs.— Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. is customary to place three steps as winders in stairs of the average width ; sometimes four steps are placed in the winders, but we would not recommend more than three and never more than four steps in the winders. The space required for the winders is usually taken as a square, the sides of which equal the width of the stairs. For example, if the stairs are 3}^ feet wide, the space required for the winders will he ^}4 feet square. The same rule holds good in regard to platforms. As regards the framing for the headers, it is safe to say that a header could be placed flush with the side of the square and third winder, and leave plenty of head room in ordinary dwellings having 9 to 10 foot ceilings, as shown by dotted lines extending across flush with the first post. This would leave room enough on the fioor above for a small closet. If this was not desired, or if for any reason this ar- rangement should not give head room enough, the short header and joists indicated by the dotted lines may be omitted and the frame work put in as shown. From 6 to 10 inches is usually allowed between the string board and the headers for stairs with a rail, or " open stairs," as they are frequently called. At the landing it is only necessary to allow 2 or 3 inches between the header and the last riser. This sketch is given to impress upon the mind of the draftsman the importance of good calculation in connection with drawing plans, and that a scale drawing is the best and most effective way to show the calculations. FRAMING PLANS AND ELEVATIONS. We will now turn to a few drawings show- ing the method of indicating framing plans. Fig. 46 represents the plan of a farm barn 58 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. with large floor space, driveway running through the building, stable room for five horses, granary and passageways. This plan is well arranged for an addition or an annex to the right, such as a cow stable, for exam- ple, which would be handy to both hay and grain, and would be considerably removed from the horse stable, which is a feature generally desired. It is hardly necessary to show in detail the manner of drawing the sketches presented on this subject. The drawings are plain and easily understood and will serve as good examples for practice, particularly Fig. 47, which shows just where to start and stop the pen without crossing lines which should not be crossed in repre- senting the work properly. This figure shows the general framing plan of the sills = IZ zz = = = 1 1 LJ -1 m FLOOR SPACE is'e'x 32' BIN BIN BIN PASSAGE BIN 1_ _| \ HAY 1 f i PASSAGE \ > Pig. 46. - Floor Plan of Baru —Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. Fig. 47.— Method of Drawing Floor Framing Plan.— Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. and floor joists. It is desirable in stables to have the floor run lengthwise behind the horses, with a double floor in the stalls, the top floor running lengthwise of them. In the driveway it is desirable for the floor to run crosswise, as it is not as slippery to the horses' feet when pulling in loads. It also makes a stronger floor. This we trust will be sufficient reason for the plan of the joists presented in Fig. 47. The plan shows the joists resting on top of the sills and girders, which is a better and stronger method than framing them in, besides being easier and HINTS ON PLANNING. pSE L/fi^- OI' THB UNIVERSITY 59 / / \ s K / ^ N / / \ \. 4x4 6x6 1 CD X 4x4 / \. n> 6x8 ■ Fig. 48.— Method of Drawing the Right Side Elevation of Frame.— Scale, ^ Inch to the Foot. 60 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Fig. 49.— Method of Framing Left End Bent.— Scale, % Inch to the Foot. HINTS ON PLANNING. 61 quicker. A little study of the framing plan, Fig. 47, will be sufficient to show the drafts- man just how to proceed to draw a similar plan. The framing of the right side elevation of the building is shown in Fig. 48 of the illus- trations. The particular part to which atten- tion is invited is the starting and stopping of the lines at just the right points in drawing the plates and rafters. As previously stated, the first thing is to pencil sketch all work ; then with well guarded movements one can tell just where to start and stop the pen. Suppose, for instance. Fig. 48 is pencil sketched, and we are to ink it. First take the sill lines, then the top ridge line, and after that the outside rafter and post lines. This will give the outline of the entire figure. As the rafters are joined by means of a ridge board and rest on top of the purlin and main plates, while at the same time extending below the main plate, it is necessary to next draw the rafters. First draw the ends, then the length lines, after which the roof can be finished by drawing the lower lines of the ridge board and the plate lines as they would appear between the rafters, thus showing just where to start and stop the short lines. The short lines running perpendicularly from the main plate to the purlin plate show the portion of the purlin posts exposed to view at the side of the rafters on account of the posts being thicker. Next draw the main post lines, girt lines, door posts, headers and braces in the order named. A little practice in this kind of work is the best experience, and as the work progresses step by step the best ways and means of accomplishing cer- tain results will come to light and appear plainer and plainer as the draftsman gains in the knowledge of his profession. The elevation of the left end bent is shown in Fig. 49, which is self explanatory. A few figures are included to give an idea of mark- ing sizes of timber used. The elevation of the next bent, which shows some changes in the framing, is represented in Fig. 50. This being an inside bent, it is not necessary that the tie girts, to which it is usual to nail the siding, should be in the frame ; in fact, they would only be in the way, so for this reason they are omitted. The purlin girt is left out because it would be in the way of operating a hay fork if one was desired. As this bent is the one directly in front of the horses and next to the barn floor it is necessary that it should be boarded up about 3 feet high. For this purpose tie girts are put in and studded underneath, as shown. It would now appear that the subject of architectural drawing had been considered TTT., "''THE Ty^ UNIVERSITY s£iUFORN\' 32 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Fig. 60 —Method of Framing and Drawing Middle Bent.— Scale, % Inch to the Foot. HINTS ON PLANNING. 63 witli sufficient clearness to enable the student to proceed understandingly in ordinary prac- tice and make the working plans so often required in the building trade. In conclusion, it may be well to say to those who wish to improve themselves in this subject : study the plans, elevations and details of the buildings that appear from time to time in architectural journals. Many of them show specimens of the finest archi- tectural work, which will s^rve as the very best of lessons for study and practice. Study the work ; study how to improve upon it ; study the best manner to proceed, and then try a hand at executing the work by making a few drawings for practice. Very small curves, scrolls and ornaments can be best made with a very fine writing pen, as the drawing pen is not adapted to the short and crooked lines forming the curves of molded surfaces, brackets and small orna- ments appearing in elevations. ARCHITECTURAL PERSPECTIVE. We have now treated the subject of archi- tectural drawing somewhat extensively, going into the details of the various parts of the work in a concise and thorough manner. Actual working drawings to scale measure- ments have been a special feature of the work as one of the principal points of value to the mechanic. Working drawings are what mechanics necessarily require from which to work, and they must always be drawn full size or to some convenient scale. Working drawings show but one side of an object, but if it be required to show more, then a separate drawing is necessary for each side. In preparing elevations of buildings, we have front, right, left and rear elevations, each being represented separately in the working drawings. Perspective drawing is a far more difficult subject to understand and master than the making of working drawings. As a rule, the mechanic has little demand for perspective drawings, as they are not to work from, and he who can make the floor plans, front and side elevations, sections ^nd details in a cred- 64 itable manner is master of the art of archi- tectural drawing so far as his work is likely to require a knowledge of drawing. So many inquiries, however, in regard to perspective have been received that it is deemed best to give in brief the objects and principles of perspective for the benefit of those who may desire to take up the subject. Perspective refers to the appearance of ob- jects as influenced by the position and dis- tance from the eye. Perspective drawings give the appearance from one point of view ; and is an art required more particularly in picture making. In perspective we do not see the size of objects as they really are, but as they seem to be from a given point of view. The perspective view of an object requires that the object be placed in an oblique position to the direct line of vision or point of sight from which it is viewed. For example, the perspective view of a house is obtained by placing the plan in an oblique position to the principal line of vision. In architectural perspective the plan is usually placed on an angle of 45 degrees with the ARCHITECTURAL PERSPECTIVE. 65 point of sight, A building so placed will show two sides to the draftsman, but will not show either side as it really is, but as it seems to be from the point of sight. By placing objects obliquely to the principal line of vis- ion they not only appear smaller, but their shape also appears changed — that is, the gen- eral outline and appearance seem to take on a different form. There is a science of main- taining a proportional scale in representing the appearance of objects in perspective. It is not the intention to enter into the work of perspective m an exhaustive man- ner, but to give a few simple diagrams which will illustrate the principles in a way to be easily understood by the student. Many of the intricacies of perspective drawing can with proper diagrams and explanations be made easy of comprehension to the average mechanic. We will, before proceeding fur- ther, explain a few of the terms and points used in the work. Referring to Fig, 51, let H L represent the horizontal line and P L V the principal line of vision. In a perspective diagram these two lines are always present, and invariably bear the same geometric re- lation to each other. The first indicates the level of the eye, the second is the direct line of vision and extends from the eye of the spectator to the horizontal line, and at right angles to it. The length of these lines is variable according to the requirements of the objects to be placed in perspective. The P L V is drawn vertical in order to represent it, but it should be remembered that it is a horizontal line — extending from the eye of the spectator. S P is the station point, which is sometimes called the point of sight, and represents the position of the eye in the dia- gram. When this point is determined — that is, its distance from the horizontal line — it decides the limits of the drawing, for all other points in the diagram are determined by the position of the station point, C V is the center of vision, and is the point in the horizontal line directly opposite the station point. V P is the vanishing point, which may be any point in a diagram where two or more really parallel lines meet, but which, on account of retreating, appear to converge. There may be two or more vanishing points in a diagram, according to the number of planes of the object to be drawn and its posi- tion from the station point. All horizontal retreating lines have their vanishing points in the horizontal line, but their positions are variable, depending upon the position of the retreating lines of the ob • ject to be drawn. The P L V is a horizontal line retreating from the eye at the station 66 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. point on an angle of 90 degrees, and its van- ishing point is therefore the center of vision. It is plain that all parallel retreating lines converge to a common point, and all lines and as we do not wish to weary the student with a labyrinth of lines and points at the beginning of the subject, we will proceed with the diagram and explain the other points MP Fig. 51.— Geometrical Drawing and Perspective of a Door.— Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. parallel to the P L V which retreat at an angle of 90 degrees find a common point in the center of vision, which is the vanishing point for all such lines. We have now explained a few of the prin- cipal points required in perspective, but other points will come up as the work advances, as they come up from time to time. Take for the first lesson in perspective a plain four- panel door, which is about as easy to make as anything in the line of architectural work. Referring to Fig. 51, first draw the horizon- tal line, which represents the level of the eye, and from a point near the center draw ARCHITECTURAL PERSPECTIVE. 67 at right angles the principal line of vision. On this line determine the station point. This may be assumed at any convenient dis- tance from the horizontal line, but when once fixed the other points are dependent upon its position. Next draw the ground line. This line may be fixed according to the judgment of the draftsman, but very naturally in viewing objects on level ground, the ground line would be from 4^ to 5 ^ feet below the level of the eye or the horizontal line. Now, make the geometrical drawing of the door as shown at A. Draw the door on a scale of 3-16 inch to the foot and 3x7 feet in size for convenience. This brings the top of door I }4 feet above the horizontal line. Proceed to outline the door in perspective by drawing from some convenient point on the ground line the first upright line of the door, which remains unchanged by perspective, as at B. Next draw the retreating lines of the top and bottom of the door, and also the top and bottom lines of the panels, to the vanish- ing point V P, as shown. A door placed obliquely to the P L V would be foreshort- ened in width, because the real width would not be seen owing to its oblique position. In order to determine the amount the door would be foreshortened, it is necessary to establish a measuring point, which is done as follows : Measure out from C V on the hori- zontal line a distance equal to that from C V to S P, or take the compasses, and, with the distance from C V to S P as a radius, strike a semicircle, and the points where it cuts the horizontal line will be the measuring points. In this example only one measuring point is required, as shown at M P. Having now established what is termed a measuring point, it will next be shown how the fore- shortening of the door is determined. Take the actual width of the door A according to scale and set off this distance on the ground line from the first upright line of the door B, as shown by G S. This measurement is called a geometric scale. From the end of this scale at S draw a line to the measuring point M P, and the place where the line crosses the retreating ground line of the door, as at D, will be the point from which to draw the vertical line, which will establish the perspective width of the door. All the other perspective widths are found in the same manner by setting off from G on the geometric scale the actual scale measure- ments, as, for example, the width of the stiles and panels, arid from these points draw lines to the measuring point, as shown. These lines crossing the retreating ground line de- termine the perspective widths of the stiles 68 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. and panels. The horizontal dotted lines show how the hights are transferred from the geometrical drawing to the perspective. For the benefit of the learner it would be well for him to draw the perspective of the truly astonishing, and a few carefully made drawings showing different perspective views will soon give the student an idea of the proper manner* of proceeding and lay the foundation for further advancement. As the Fig. 52.— Dlaffram Showing Difference in Appearance of Objects Placed in Varying Positions. Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. door in different positions, as it will furnish a very good lesson for practice. The door can be placed entirely below the horizontal line or above it, and to the right or left of the principal line of vision, at any distance de- sired. The change of appearance through the variation of the position of the door is same general rule applies with the door in any perspective position, it is recommended that the position be changed and the effects thereof studied until the student is a thorough master of this simple illustration of perspect- ive. The difference in the appearance of objects ARCHITECTURAL PERSPECTIVE. 69 placed in various perspective positions is shown in Fig. 52, by contrasting the per- spective view of the post B, which is to the left of P L V and which Extends above the H L, with the perspective view of the post A, which is to the right of the P L V and which has its top below the H L. In this diagram there are two measuring points, the reason for which is that one perspective is to the left of the P L V and the other to the right, which requires that each view shall have its own measuring point, as shown. These two posts are so placed that all retreat- ing lines are parallel to the P L V, therefore but one vanishing point is required for both. When objects are placed in this position they .are said to be in parallel perspective. The post B extends above H L, which is the level of the eye, consequently we cannot see the plane which represents the top of it. All that can be seen of B in its position from the station point are the two sides, as shown. The post A is much shorter than B, and its top falls below the H L ; therefore we are able to see two sides and the plane which represents its top. By going further and supposing A to be a transparent figure and representing by dotted lines those which we could not see in an opaque object, we are able to correctly outline every plane in the figure — the four sides, top and bottom, as shown. The principles and methods of draw- ing Fig. 52 are essentially the same as those of the previous diagram and need no further explanation. For the purpose of showing the same ob- jects in a different position of perspective, and so that but one measuring point will be required, another diagram is given represent- ing both posts to the right of the P L V, as shown in Fig. 53. The explanation of the two preceding diagrams will enable the learner to readily comprehend the ideas pre- sented in Fig. 53, as the principles are the same as already delineated. We will now leave these diagrams to the practice of the student, recommending that they be made larger than here given, and that the object to be placed in perspective be disposed in different positions until the principles in- volved are thoroughly understood. We have thus far only considered objects in such positions that the retreating lines were parallel with the P L V, which is on an angle of 90 degrees and therefore made the center of vision — the vanishing point for all retreating lines. If an object is turned either to the right or left, as indicated in Fig. 54, then the retreating lines are not parallel to the P L V, and the center of vision is no ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. longer the vanishing point. When an object is placed at an angle to the P L V it removes the vanishing point from the center of vision and requires one at the right and left of the center of vision to enable the draftsman to correctly represent the retreating lines. The latter still remain horizontal, consequently their vanishing points will be found in the horizontal line, their positions depending upon the amount the object is turned from the ground line. When an object is turned at an angle from the S P it is said to be in angular perspective. Referring now to Fig. 54, let it be required to draw a figure, for example, 2 feet square and 3 feet high in angular per- spective, turning the figure at an angle of 45 degrees with the station point. First draw the H L and the P L V, as in the preceding dia- grams. Determine the S P, and with it as a radius describe the semicircle, as shown. Measure off on the semicircle the degree representing the angle at which it is desired to have the lines retreat. Now, as pre- viously shown, a line drawn from the S P at an angle of 90 degrees finds at its intersec- tion with the H L a vanishing point for itself and all lines parallel to it ; so a line drawn from the S P at any angle in intersecting the H L finds a vanishing point for all lines running in that direction. Hence the lines directed from S P at a angle of 45 degrees in intersecting the H L determine the vanish- ing points, as shown. It will also be ob- Fig. 53.— Showinff Diflfereut Positions of Perspective, and that only one Measuring Point is Required for Objects Drawn in Similar Positions.— Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. served that lines drawn from the S P at an angle of 45 degrees strike the measuring points. This may be proven by taking C V ARCHITECTURAL PERSPECTIVE. 71 as a center and S P as a radius and striking- the circle, as shown in this and the preced- ing diagrams. If the object to be drawn is turned at any other angle than 45 degrees, distance from C V, as shown, letting A rep- resent the geometrical size of the bottom of the figure and also the angle at which it is turned from the ground line and station Fljr. 64. DiagTjtm Showing Vanishingr and Measuring Points when the Object is Turned at an Ang\e of 45" with the Station Point.— Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. then the vanishing points and measuring points no longer occupy the same positions, but this point will be explained in the next illustration of perspective. To complete Fig. 54, draw the ground line at some convienient point. To place the entire figure in per- spective, draw from the ground line at some convenient distance from the P L V the first perpendicular line which remains unchanged by perspective, as shown by B C . Next 72 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. draw the retreating ground lines from B' to the vanishing points, then the retreating lines of the top from C to the vanishing points, all as shown. Next set off on the ground line the geometric scale from B' in order to determine the foreshortening of the retreating sides. The scale taken is the actual scale measurement of one of the sides of the square A, and it is laid off on the ground line from B' in both directions be- cause there are two retreating sides. From the end of these scales draw the remaining two retreating ground lines to the vanishing points, and the points of crossing the first retreating ground lines will be the points from which to raise the perpendicular lines, which will determine the perspective width of the figure. The remaining top retreating lines complete the figure and wiU be easily understood from the diagram. The learner should observe the reduction that takes place in the size of objects when placed in perspective positions, and that the per- spective view changes as the object is moved either to the right or left of the P L V. An object may also be drawn partly in the P L V, as will be shown in the next diagram. DRAWING PERSPECTIVE FIGURES. We will now take up a figure which shows the changes occurring when an object is placed at some angle other than 45 degrees with the station point, and follow it up in a way to involve more of the principles and points which necessarily have to be consid- ered in architectural perspective. The pre- vious diagrams of perspective have been made to illustrate very plain objects, in order that the learner might the more readily be- come familiar with the points and principles involved. The next step is showing in a practical manner a method of drawing the perspective outlines of a plain building. This structure is not a figure with a square base, like the previous one, but is longer than it is wide, and being placed with the end at an angle of 60 degrees with the sta- tion point, there is more involved than in any of the previous perspective figures. Re- ferring to Fig. 55, draw the H L and the P L V, and fix the station point. C V is the center of vision in the horizontal line. With S P as a center draw the semicircle and set ofE a point which will represent the degree of the angle at which it is desired the end shall retreat. In this case it is made 60 de- grees ; therefore a line drawn from S P at an angle of 60 degrees will, at the intersection of the horizontal line, find a vanishing point for all lines running in that direction. A line drawn at right angles to the one of 60 degrees will, at the intersection of the hori- zontal line, find a vanishing point for all lines running in that direction. As V P i and V P 2 must each have a measuring point, the next thing in order is to locate them. This may be done by taking V P i for a center with S P as a radius and striking the arc shown by dotted line, cutting the H L and establishing M P 2, as shown. Take V P 2 for a center with S P as a radius and strike the arc, cutting the H L, locating M P i, as shown. Next draw the ground line and then the nearest upright corner which remains unchanged by perspective. In this case the corner is made in the P L V, .so all that is necessary is to set off the hight on this line, as shown at A. Now draw the retreating lines to the vanishing points, V P i and V P 2, 74 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. VP3I SP- Flg. 55.— Diagram Showing Change of Vanishing and Measuring Points when the not at an Angle of 45° with the Station Point; also Method of Obtaining the Points for Koof Lines.— Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. Object is Vanishing DRAWING PERSPECTIVE FIGURES. 76 Next comes the foreshortening of the sides. The plan shows the geometrical size of the ground plan and the angle at which it is turned from the ground line. Take the ac- tual scale measurements from the plan and set them off on the ground line, the width to the right of the P L V and the length to the left. These are the geometric scales, and are represented in the diagram by G S and G S'. From the end of these scales draw lines to the measuring points, M P i and M P 2, as shown. The points of crossing the retreating ground lines will be the points from which to draw the two remaining up- right corners of the figure. In developing the roof lines first set off the hight of roof, which in this case is assumed to be as repre- sented by A B. The hights should be set off according to the scale of the geometrical ele- vations, and which will be explained more fully in another diagram by means of a hight line. The roof being on an inclination causes a portion of the roof lines to retreat upward at an inclination, consequently we must find a vanishing point for them. As we have as- sumed the hight of roof to be A B, draw a line from B to V P 2. Find the center of the gable, which may be done by drawing a line from the center of the end geometrical scale to M P I and raising the vertical dotted line from the crossing of the retreating end ground line. The intersection of the verti- cal dotted line at C on the line B V P 2 will be the point through which to draw a line from A, which will at its junction with a per- pendicular line raised from V P 2 find a van- ishing point for the upwardly inclined lines of the roof. This point is V P 3. We now draw the further inclined retreating roof line to V P 3, and then the horizontal retreating line from C to V P i, which represents the ridge line. We now have one more point to consider — the inclination of the roof line on the further side of the gable, which is downward, hence we must look downward for a vanishing point for all lines running in that direction. To determine this point measure down from V P 2 the distance V P 2 is from V P 3, establishing V P 4. A line drawn from C to V P 4 will cut the top of the post on the further comer of the gable and thus com- plete the figure. USE OF HIGHT LINES. A striking illustration of the effect of plac- ing an object in various perspective positions and the use of hight lines or vertical scales is presented in Fig. 56. In the design A and B represent the geometrical size of a frame, 76 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. as, for example, a transom, A showing it standing on end and B resting on its side. C, D, E, F and G are of the same size as A and B, but represent the object in different lying flat on the picture plane, which is the surface on which the drawing is made. G is a perspective of the frame standing on the long side in an upright position. It is of MP2 Fig. 56.— Diagram Showing Effect of Different Perspective Positions and the Use of a Hight Line or Vertical Scale.— Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. perspective positions. C and D represent perspective views of the object standing on the narrow end. C and D are both the same size, but C being more distant than D ap- pears smaller. E and F show different per- spectives of the frame as it would appear the same size as the other perspectives, but its appearance, as influenced by position and distance from the eye, is greatly changed from the other figures, as may be seen from an inspection of the drawing. The effect of different positions is shown very forcibly by DRAWING PERSPECTIVE FIGURES. 77 C, D, E, F and G. It is also obvious that objects, however placed, have the same vanishing points when their lines and planes are parallel. The ground line is usually assumed to be the lower edge of the picture plane, all hori- zontal scales being measured in this line, and it is simpler to have the nearest edge of the object touch this line, as shown by D and E. When objects touch this line they are in the extreme foreground. When ob- jects do not touch this line, but instead are drawn back of it, as C, F and G, the scales are still set off on the ground line or plane of measures, as it is sometimes called, and transferred, as will be shown by reference to the diagram. This is necessary in order to preserve the actual proportions of the differ- ent parts to each other. To make the dia- gram draw the H L, the P L V and the ground line in the usual manner, also fix the station point and the measuring points, as shown. Now, it will be observed that C is set back a considerable distance from the ground line. This distance is assumed when it is not definitely known. In this case the distance is assumed to be V H, and a line drawn from H to M P I will, in crossing the retreating ground line, determine the per- spective distance from the ground line from which to start the outline of C. In order to determine the hight it is necessary to have a vertical scale, which is represented by V S. Oh this line set off the actual hight of the object as taken from A, and draw the line from S to the V P, which will determine the perspective hight of C. The perspective width is determined by setting off on the ground line the actual scale width of A, as H I, and drawing the line from I to M P I, as shown. The outline of D is drawn in ex- actly the same manner, the only difference being the position, which is such that its nearest line touches the ground line. E and F are drawn in like manner, but the object lying flat on the picture plane without any hight being represented no vertical scale is needed. G, which is a perspective of B in an upright position, requires a vertical scale, as represented by V^ SI We have now illus- trated the use of the hight line or vertical scale and shown that all distances, however remote or small, may be kept proportional and deter- mined by the horizontal and vertical scales. FORESHORTENING. It has been shown that perspective reduces and foreshortens objects, and it now remains to present another method of producing the same result in the reduction and foreshorten- ing of objects placed in perspective positions, in order that the student may have a choice of methods and be able to use that which will best serve the purpose. For example, take plan A of Fig. 56 and proceed to place it in a perspective position as if it were the floor plan of a frame or the outside sills. Refer- ring to Fig. 57, draw the horizontal line and the P L V. Fix the station point and ground line by assuming some convenient distances, as shown. Next place the plan A at an angle of 45 degrees with the P L V and make the corner D the same distance above the horizontal line as it is from S on the ground line below. The vanishing points are found by run- ning parallel with the sides of the plan A, starting from the S P and continuing until the horizontal line is intersected, as shown by V P I and V P 2. This method of find- 78 ing the vanishing points for all horizontal lines is very simple, and is practically the same as the method giveii in connection with previous figures. To many, perhaps, this method will present some advantages, as it does not matter to what angle the plan A is placed with the P L V, for the vanish- ing points will be found in exactly the same way as already described. In this case the vanishing points are equally distant from C on the horizontal line, but if the plan A was turned at some other angle, then the vanish- ing points would not be equidistant from C. They would still be found somewhere in the horizontal line, but further removed toward and from the center, according to the angle at which the plan is placed. The measuring points and the geometric scale G S for the foreshortening of the retreating sides of the object have been thoroughly explained in the previous figures. They have been drawn in this figure to show that the two methods produce like results when closely followed. Draw the perspective B, using the geometric FORESHOR TENING. 79 rig. 57.— Diagrram Showingr Another Method of ForeshorteninK in Pei-spective and that the Same Result is Produced when the Principles are Accurately Observed.— Scale, 3-16 Inch to the Foot. 80 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. scales and measuring points to determine the foreshortening of the retreating sides, as shown by the first method. We will now proceed to show the second method of foreshortening. Draw lines from the corners of the plan A toward the S P and from the points of intersection with the hori- zontal line drop lines perpendicularly to the ground line. The intersection of these lines with the retreating ground lines will deter- mine the perspective widths of the retreating side of the object, and which will be seen to produce exactly the same result as the former method. There is a line called the picture plane line, shown in the sketch by P P L. This runs parallel with the horizontal line, and by the second method of foreshortening it may be assumed at any convenient distance from the plan when it is not required to make the foreshortening correspond with another method. In this case the picture plane line and the horizontal line are regarded as coin- ciding in order to produce the same effect in the foreshortening. The second method has the advantage that the plan A can be changed to any position and brought very close to the picture plane line if desired. The closer it is brought to this line the less the reduction in the perspective figure. Imagine the plan A brought down until the picture plane line coincides with the horizontal line, and they become one and the same ; then it is easy to see that perpendicular lines drawn from the picture plane line would increase to a consid- erable extent the size of the perspective fig- ure B. Thus far the perspective D has been considered without regard to hight. It is reasonable to suppose that if perspective reduces an object in length and width the hight must also in some cases be reduced in order that the figure may be kept propor- tional. For this purpose we must establish a hight line, which is done in the following manner : Run lines parallel with the side of the plan to intersect the picture plane line and from the intersection draw perpendicular lines to the ground line, which will establish the lines on which to set off the hight of the drawing. These lines are called hight lines. In Fig. 57 we have produced a hight line for each side of the object, but in this drawing only one hight line is required. Two hight lines have been given, to show that it does not matter to which side the hight line is produced, as the result is the same. Assum- ing that the object has a certain hight, set it off on the hight lines, as H T or H' T', and the lines drawn from the vanishing points through the points T and T' will establish the perspective hight, as shown. It will be seen FORESHORTENING. 81 by referring to the drawing that the real hight of the perspective figure has been con- siderably lessened from the actual hight of the object, as set off on the hight lines. We have now established the use of a hight line and a second method of foreshortening the retreating sides of objects in perspective. In our last drawing we combined the two meth- ods to show that each produced the same result when certain points were observed ; but if the points referred to were not ob- served, then the result would be vastly differ- ent. The latter method has a very decided advantage over the former in the manner of producing the perspective, as the actual proportions of the objects to be placed in perspective may be retained with a much less reduction than usually follows by the former method. We will now pro- ceed to some drawings which will set forth the advantages of the second method of foreshortening and maintaining the ac- tual proportions in producing perspective . figures. CARPENTERS' TOOL CHEST IN PERSPECTIVE. If the student has thoroughly learned the principles that have been set forth in the preceding figures he should now be able to more readily grasp the ideas of perspective, and not be at all discouraged as the lines in- crease in number with the more complicated figures. We will take for the next exam- ple a carpenters' tool chest, which is a plain, easy figure, with length, width and hight, and an object which will bring into use the best method of making perspective drawings. Referring to Fig. 58, we will produce a per- spective figure in accordance with a plan, side and end elevations. Draw the horizon- tal line and P L V, and find the vanishing points as previously given. The ground line and picture plane line are then assumed at convenient distances. Draw the plan to the actual geometric scale of the chest, and at an angle of 45 degrees with the P L V, as shown. The two outer lines represent the base and size of the top, the two inner lines represent the size of the panel in the top. Next lay off on the inside base line the exact location of the stiles of the panels for the 82 side and end of the chest. These are repre- sented by arrow-pointed marks, as shown. The marks for determining the perspective size of the top panel have been transferred to the outside line of the base, as the same line represents the h\\\ size of the top. The hight line is drawn by running parallel with the plan to picture plane line, and from this intersection perpendicular to the ground line, as shown. Next draw the retreating ground lines. Set off the hight on the hight line according to the actual scale of the ele- vations and draw the retreating line of the top and end through this point to the P L V, which will establish the perspective hight in full. The perspective hights of the different members are determined by setting off the actual scale of the elevation on the diagonal line across the end of chest and drawing lines from the vanishing point through the points set off on the diagonal line to the P L V. The reason for this method of proceeding will be made plain in the next drawing, prepared especially for the explanation. The per- spective widths are determined by drawing CARPENTERS' TOOL CHEST IN PERSPECTIVE, 83 Pig. 5«.— Practical Application of tbe Best Method of Produeintr a Perspective Figure.— Scale, % Inch to the Foot. 84 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. lines toward tlie S P until they intersect the picture plane line, and from this point then drop to the perspective figure on which it is desired to establish the proportional perspec- tive widths. The diagram is very plain, and if carefully studied will convey to the mind of the student the method of establishing perspective distances better than any further description can do. In Fig. 59 is represented a partial sketch of Fig. 58, representing the end of the chest in perspective in open Hnes without shading, in order to show more clearly the use of the hight line and the scale. The hight line is found by running parallel with the side of the plan to the picture plane line and from this point perpendicular to the ground line. The perspective hight is found by setting off on the hight line the actual scale hight of the elevation, as A B, and drawing a line from the vanishing point through the point B to the P L V, or central line of vision, as shown. This establishes the full perspective hight, but as there are several different members which go to make this hight we must have some means whereby we can set off the hight of each member respectively. It is plain to be seen that we cannot start from A on the ground line, and if we were to start from the retreating ground line at C and set off the hights according to the actual bights of the elevation scale it would make the drawing all Fig. 59.— Diagram Showing the Use of Hight Lines and Scales.— Scale, % Inch to the Foot. out of proportion. The cause of this is ap- parent, as the hight line A B reduces the CARPENTERS' TOOL CHEST IN PERSPECTIVE. 86 hight of the perspective from that of the ele- .vation the distance from A to C, so that the actual hight of the perspective is the distance C B. Thus the scale of the perspective is reduced, and in order to set o£E proportional hights on the hight line C B we must work out a proportional scale or adopt another method whereby we can use the elevation scale. It is a very difficult matter to work out a scale for a perspective drawing that would exactly correspond with the elevation scale, and even when 'the scale is found it might be a very difficult one by which to draw, on account of the small divisions it is often necessary to make to carry out the pro- portion of the different parts to each other. For example, take Fig. 59, and with an ele- vation scale of ^ inch to the foot, the scale of the perspective would be a little less than 1^ inch to the foot, which would be found a very inconvenient scale by which to transfer hights from the elevation to the perspective. The method of figuring out the scale is as follows : Take the scale of the elevation in six- teenths for the third term, which is 8 ; for the second term take the actual hight of the perspective in sixteenths on the hight line from C to B, which is ^j4, and for the first term take the scale hight of the elevation in sixteenths, which is 1 3. We now have a math- ematical expression, as follows : 13 : 9)^ :: 8 : to the scale required. The operation is easy — gj4 X8-*-i3 = 5 11-13 sixteenths of an inch to the foot, the scale of the perspec- tive drawing by which the hights would have to be, established if set off on the line from C to B. Such scales are not practical, and only tend to worry and confuse the mind of the stu- dent. A very simple and practical method of setting off the hights of different members is by means of a scale line, which may be easily drawn after the full perspective hight has been determined. Take the actual scale hight of the elevation, which is shown in the perspective by A B, and set it off from S to L, intersecting the retreating ground line. This line we will call the scale line, and the hight of the different members may be set off on this line according to the eleva- tion scale without any complications of fig- ures and changing of scales. The distances are set off on this line as indicated by the arrow points, and lines drawn from the van- ishing point through these points to the P L V will establish the perspective hights of all the different members to the finest point it is possible to obtain and in the most prac- tical manner. ELEVATIONS IN PERSPECTIVE. In previous lessons the principles of per- spective drawing have been pretty clearly set forth, so that now the mind of the stu- dent should be thoroughly imbued with the subject and ready for the introduction of fig- ures which will lead him to the very point he has sought to obtain — the making of per- spective elevations. From experience we know this to be the most desired part upon which those interested in drawing are seek- ing specific instructions, and that it would be very difficult to successfully instruct be- ginners in the art by means of a few com- plicated figures only partially explained. Hence the student has been advanced step by step to a point where he can readily grasp the principles of perspective in its most complicated forms and master the work which has been the object of his study. There remains only a few more points to be explained, and these for the most part will be the methods of locating and finding the vanishing points for roof lines, as it is here the beginner will experience the great- est difficulties. When the roof vanishing' 86 points are located they determine the direc- tion of the roof lines, and by observing the scale on the hight line the actual propor- tions are maintained and the whole work soon becomes as easy as plain geometrical drawing. We will take for an example the making of a perspective elevation from the floor plan, front and side elevations, which are represented in Figs. 60, 61 and 62. These figures are the plain geometrical drawings, and will be readily understood. The first step is to draw the floor plan at the angle it is desired to place the perspec- tive ; in this case 45 degrees, as indicated in Fig. 6;^. After drawing the plan at the angle required, draw the picture plane line, which may be assumed a short distance be- low the plan. The greater the distance below the plan the greater will be the re- duction in the perspective, as will be seen by reference to Fig. 6^. Next establish the ground line a sufficient distance below the picture plane line to admit of drawing the perspective between the two lines. We now assume the horizontal line and station point ELEVATIONS IN PERSPECTIVE. 87 and determine the vanishing points for the horizontal Hnes the same as described in connection with previous figures. In this drawing the horizontal line has been as- FiK. 60.— Floor Plan.— Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. sumed 8 feet above the ground line, and the station point or point of sight has been fixed 80 feet from the picture plane line down- ward on the line P L V. In this drawing the lines for determining the vanishing points have not been carried out to their full length, as it would make the drawing un- necessarily large ; hence we give the above figures, which will enable the learner to read- ily find the vanishing points without further instructions. The direction of the vanishing points is so plainly indicated that it is hardly possible to mistake their terminations. H L is the hight line, which has been produced the same as described in connection with Figs. 57 and 58. Set off the full hight of the gable on the hight line, as taken from Fig. 61, and represented in Fig. 6^ by H L ; then a line drawn from L' to the right hand vanish- ing point will cut the top of the gable in the perspective figure and determine its perspec- tive hight. Just where the point of gable will touch this line may be determined by drawing the dotted line from the center of the gable cornice line toward the station point to the intersection of the picture plane line, thence perpendicularly to D. A line from D to the left vanishing point represents the ridge line. The points of the rear end of gable may be located in the same manner that point D was found. Set off on the hight line the hight from ground line to the eaves, as H A, and a line from A to the right van- ishing point will cut the lower corners of the front gable and locate C and B, A line from 88 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. C extended through. D will, on intersecting a perpendicular line from the right vanishing point, determine the vanishing point for the upwardly inclined lines of the gable cornice ; likewise a line from D extended downward through B will locate the vanishing point for the downward lines. H' A' is the hight H A transferred to rep- resent the hight from the retreating ground line to the eaves by the same method as was shown by Fig. 59. This line is used for set- ting off the hights of different members from the retreating ground line to the eaves. A change in the location of this line will some- times produce changes in the perspective, and the student should use considerable care in placing the position of this line. It is best to keep it as near the principal line of vision as possible. By observing this line closely it will aid very much in determining the proportional hights of different members and is as accurate as any method of which I have knowledge. The dotted lines drawn from the plan toward the picture plane line and from this intersection perpendicularly to the perspective show clearly how the chim- ney, door and window frames and the vari- ous other parts are located and proportioned in the perspective elevation. There is an- other little point which may be explained in regard to obtaining the hip lines of the porch roof in the perspective figure. The line III locates the outside corner of hip, then line I 2 on the plan represents the plan of hip, and following the line 222 locate the termination of the hip against the building in the perspective figure, as shown. Fig. 61.— Front Elevation.— Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. Enough has now been explained to enable the learner to study out for himself any other portion of the work, and there is no better way to do it than to practice on simi- lar drawings made to >^ or ^ inch scale. A very convenient scale to work out perspec- tives is J^ inch to the foot, and a better pro- portion for the perspective figures will result ELEVATIONS IN PERSPECTIVE. 89 by making the station point 80 feet from the horizontal line. With one more diagram to make plain the method of determining roof lines and van- ishing points, we will bring the subject to a close. In this illustration, Fig. 64, the dia- gram is made open in order to avoid too Fig. 62.— Side (Left) Elevation.— Scale, 1-16 Inch to the Foot. many lines and to show more clearly the exact manner of locating the points necessary for producing the perspective. This figure is similar to Fig. 63, and shows the extension of the lines to the vanishing points and also the manner of determining the amount of cornice projection. The plan has a line drawn around it representing the width of the cornice, and the two dotted lines from the opposite corners of the plan show plainly how the cornice projections are determined in the perspective. The picture plane line, the ground line, the horizontal line and the vanishing points for the horizontal lines are made in the usual manner. The station point has been fixed at 80 feet from the picture plane line, as in the previ- ous figure. H L represents the hight line, on which set off the full hight of the gable H L, according to the elevation, Fig. 61, and draw the line L V P 2. Set off on the hight line the distance from the ground to top of plate, as H T, and a line drawn from this point to V P 2 will cut the corners of the gable on the wall line, as shown at A and B. The line A, V P i represents the plate on the wall line. The line L V P 2 cuts the ridge of the roof on the plane of the wall line of the gable, and the peak of the gable is located by carrying the dotted line from the center of the plan into the per- spective, locating the point C. The point D is located in the same manner, and repre- sents the peak of the gable at the outer edge of the cornice. A line from D to V P i rep- resents the ridge line, as shown. The roof vanishing points will be found somewhere in a perpendicular line directly above and 90 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. below the vanishing point for the horizontal lines of the gable. A line from A drawn through C and extended to intersect the perpendicular line through V P 2 will estab- lish the vanishing point V P 3 for the up- ward inclined lines of the roof. A line from C drawn through B and extended will at the intersection of the same perpendicular line establish V P 4 for the downward inclined lines of the roof. The dotted lines carried into the perspective from the plan show plainly the location of the points on the rear gable, and the dotted lines along the eaves and up the gable show the wall lines and width of cornice. Fig. 64 represents a plain roof, and no doubt the learner will often meet with roofs more complicated, but the same principles if closely observed will enable him to solve the problems as they may come up from time to time. If the roof is in any way complicated it is best to draw a plan of the roof in the floor plan from which one is making the perspective, then the different points in the roof may be easily carried into the perspec- tive and correctly located. This will bring to mind the best methods of finding the essential points far better than any other way within our knowledge and experience. In making perspective drawings, it is not necessary that all the lines that are made for the purpose of locating the required points be regarded as permanent lines, for they may be drawn with a pencil, and in fin- ishing the drawing only those lines need be inked which represent the real perspective figure. If by accident a line is inked which is not desired, the best way to erase it is with a small piece of sandpaper folded over the end of a small flat stick cut off at an angle of about 60 degrees. Ink marks can be very effectually removed in this manner without injuring the drawing. It is also best to go over the part erased with a good rubber eraser after the sandpaper application, as it will leave a better surface upon which to draw other lines if any are to be made. For making real fine lines it is often necessary to point the drafting pen, as it is probable that one-half of the drawing pens as they come from the manufacturer will not make a very fine line, and it is impossi- ble to make fine lines with a pen not prop- erly pointed. The points of the pen should be so fine that they can barely be distin- guished when looking directly at them. If one can see the points like the point of a saw tooth that has been in contact with a nail, then he cannot make fine lines with V J it* |S I 1 ' 1 '1 92 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. the pen in any event. Ordinarily it is only a few minutes' work to fix the pen, which can be done by screwing the nibs together, holding the pen between finger and thumb and applying it to an oil stone in a kind of circular manner, bearing only lightly on the stone and constantly turning the pen to bring the nibs up to a finely rounded point. They cannot be too sharp, and if properly pointed they will not cut the paper. Some- times it is necessary to try them two or three times before just the right kind of a point is obtained. Architectural drawing is a great study, and one which practically has no end, for a person can spend a lifetime in the profes- sion and learn something new to the very last. The chance for improvement and the advancement of new ideas is always open, and none can expect to know everything there is pertaining to this interesting and useful profession. We hope that those who are seeking information on the subject dis- cussed in this work will not be disappointed and give up in despair if their first efforts to follow the instructions do not prove alto- gether satisfactory. Remember that pa- tience and perseverance are necessary requirements for those who follow the pro- fession. Beginners in the art of drawing will be likely to be more or less discouraged at the time required to make the drawings, especially if they have other work and can only devote spare time to the study. Bear in mind that architectural drawing is a kind of work that cannot be rushed through like sawing off a board. It is work that has to be done with judgment, care and precision. If one has but little time to devote to the study do not try to do too much at once ; a little work of this kind well done will prove of more lasting benefit than a larger amount poorly executed. There is scarcely any- thing to be learned of drawing from a haphazard and hasty way of working. Start right, even if it does seem slow at first. Be content with the satisfaction of knowing that you are working in a way to gain the best results. Speed and proficiency will come from practice and experience, and in a short time one will find that he can do twice as much work in a given time as he could at the start, and do it better. We would not advise any one to work too long at a time at draw- ing ; when tired and weary of it lay it aside for a while. When the draftsman tires of the work he grows careless and in- different ; his mind will be wandering from the work and poor results are most sure to follow. ELEVATIONS IN PERSPECTIVE. 93 VP3, Fig. 64.— Diagram Showing Method of Obtaining Roof Vanishing Points and Determining Perspective Proportions of Cornice,— Scale, 1-32 Inch to the Foot. 94 ARCHITECTURAL DRAWING FOR MECHANICS. Architecture is a study of itself, and the successful architect should have nothing to divert his attention from his work, as it re- quires undivided attention, and to accom- plish the best results he should not work too many hours a day, but be able to work some- what at his pleasure, say from six to eight hours a day. It is wearisome to the mind to work continuously at it without proper rest.- Architectural drawing is a profession which seems to grow in demand and one that still commands a good remuneration for the time consumed in the work. The present rates for architectural services are based as fol- lows : For drawing plans, from i}4 to 2^ per cent, of the cost of construction, and 5 per cent, for personal superintendence. It will be readily seen from this that an archi- tect would receive for drawing plans for a $2,000 residence from $35 to $50, and for plans and personal superintendence $100. Considering that such plans could be pre- pared in three or four days, and that the personal superintendence is only occasional visits of a few hours each in looking over and inspecting the work as it progresses, it is a pretty fair consideration for services rendered. Yet it is not a higher price than a skillful architect and superintendent should have for such services. There is plenty of encouragement for young architects. The work is pleasant, light and profitable. Re- member that there is always room at the top, that the demand for skilled workmen is constantly increasing and that it is the class of unskilled workmen who are the most un- employed. This should be an incentive to every student, professional man and trades- man to aspire to higher qualifications and attainments in his particular line of business. Skill and talent combined with practice and experience is the one essential qualification which leads to success. We trust that the instructions we have given in this work will serve the purpose for which they were intended and give a start to those seeking information that will event- ually bring them to a thorough understand- ing and successful issue on the subject set forth. X^ OF THE r UNIVERSITY r) o o O c O THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE TA«. 29%'49„;^, ^"^m i^i> 2]-,o. ■^1