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Zhe flftotber of an Emperor 
 
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 Cincinnati, ©bio 
 
 1901 
 
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 COPYRIGHT, 1901 
 "'' MARY MoARTHUR TUTTLE 
 
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 
 
Emperor Wilhelm, by W. Carnphausen. 
 By permission of Berlin Photographic 
 Company, New York. 
 
 91640 
 
THE EMPEROR'S TABLE. 
 
 By permission of the Photographer. 
 J. F. Stiehm, Berlin. 
 
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Hutbor's preface 
 
 T^HE permission to make the drawings contained in this collec- 
 tion, was procured by my husband, through the Hon. Nicholas 
 Fish, who was the American Secretary of Legation during the 
 years of our residence in Berlin. Mr. Fish secured from the Hof- 
 marshallant the rare opportunity which the original letter given 
 opposite explains. 
 
 Through the position of my husband as Berlin correspondent 
 of The London Daily News and American historian of Prussia, I 
 was accorded every- facility while making these sketches in the 
 Charlottenburg and Monbijou palaces. As they are the only 
 sketches of the kind I know of, the} 7 will be of interest, I trust, 
 even to advanced students in Prussian history. 
 
 The excellent sales and pleasant reception of this short study 
 
 of the life of Queen Louise justifies me in bringing out a second 
 
 edition, with some additional "Reprints" from travel and life on 
 
 the Continent. 
 
 M. McA. T. 
 
 Hm,SBORO, Ohio, September, 1901. 
 
The Cradle of Queen Louise. 
 Sketch by Mary McArthur Tattle 
 
UN; • ir / 
 
 OF 
 
 ■ 
 
 Zbc flfcotbet of an Emperor 
 
 Chapter I 
 
 ON a windy March morning in 1776, in the old city of Hanover, 
 Germany, a beautiful princess was born. She had large blue 
 eyes and golden hair. 
 
 The cradle in which they rocked her, when she was large enough 
 to be taken from her mother's arms, was a curiously-designed little 
 affair of dark, rich wood, lined with green silk. The " sky-blue," 
 the baby color of the present age, seems not to have been sought 
 for among her belongings. Her home was in a dark, narrow 
 street, busy with the traffic of an old German city. Her father 
 was not made governor-general of the city until after her birth. 
 To be sure, her aunt was the wife of George III of England, and 
 both she and the king were very partial to the father of our young 
 princess. 
 
 When only six years old, and the golden hair was beginning to 
 turn a trifle brown, she and her sisters were taken out of the house 
 very suddenly one da} T , and when they returned from their walk, 
 they were told that their aunt, the Princess Charlotte, would remain 
 with them for the present ; that their mother had been called away. 
 
 " O, why does mamma stay away so long?" exclaimed Louise, 
 after her absence had become unendurable to her. 
 
 "Be quiet, my child," said her aunt Charlotte, "you shall soon 
 go to Darmstadt, and then you will find out all about it." 
 
 It was some time after the children arrived at Darmstadt that 
 the grand duchess, their grandmother, had the courage to tell them 
 that their mother was dead, and that "Aunt Charlotte" was to be- 
 come mamma to them. But alas! Mamma Charlotte also died 
 
6 Gbe flftotbcr of an JEmperor 
 
 shortly after her marriage, and Prince Karl, robbed thus twice of 
 home ties and domestic life, decided to leave his children perma- 
 nently with their maternal grandmother in Darmstadt. 
 
 Around the castle at Darmstadt, in which the grand duchess 
 lived, there was a royal old garden, long avenues of trees, grot- 
 toes, rustic seats under widespreading trees. Here the children 
 pla3'ed, and one day little Louise wandered very near a seat where 
 a tall, slender man was sitting. He held his head erect — in fact, a 
 little thrown back, so that his long, flaxen hair and blue eyes were 
 in the full blaze of the sunlight. To the child he looked very beau- 
 tiful, and she continued to wander around and about the seat, and 
 finally came so near she could see him writing a line, ever}' now 
 and then, on a blank book, which was opened wide, tying on a 
 rustic table which stood in front of this seat. 
 
 This poet, this thinker, scarcely noticed the shadow of the little 
 figure moving so quickly about him. Schiller was intent upon his 
 great drama of " Don Carlos," and all unaware that his future 
 queen played near him, and that one day she would sorrow like a 
 sister because of his death. 
 
 Between the year of Louise's birth, 1776, and the year 1790, 
 which we are now approaching in her history, many great events 
 happened that were comparatively unknown to her. The Assem- 
 bly of the States-General at Versailles, and the storming of the 
 Bastile, doubtless she heard of, but that the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence in America was of the same date as her birth she prob- 
 ably never knew. The Confederation of States, the Constitution, 
 Washington's Inauguration, meant very little to a young German 
 princess. But the crowning of a German monarch, which event 
 was near at hand, signified much of interest and joy. 
 
 The Grand Duchess of Hesse-Darmstadt was a woman of prac- 
 tical mind, and the young princesses of Mecklenburg were receiving 
 a most substantial education under her roof. She promised them, 
 if they were obedient, she would allow them to go to Frankfort to 
 witness the coronation of the Emperor. Leopold II, of Austria, 
 would be crowned at Frankfort-on-the-Main. It was the year 1790, 
 and Louise was fourteen years old. 
 
 As she sat, one day, working on a pair of shoes which her 
 
^fe&^fe^w- 
 

 
 
Gbe d&otbet of an Bmperov 7 
 
 grandma said " she must finish before she could go " (these were 
 the same shoes which, Prince Metternich tells us, she wore at the 
 coronation ball of Francis II, two years later, the evening he danced 
 with her), she looked up with a beaming smile and said to the 
 grand duchess : " O grandma, possibly the beautiful French Queen, 
 Marie Antoinette, will attend the coronation of the Emperor. I 
 should rather see her than any one on earth." 
 
 "O no, my child; that is quite impossible! France is full of 
 excitement, and the king and queen could not leave Paris." 
 
 The two young princesses started in company with their Han- 
 overian relatives, in September, for Frankfort-on-the-Main. Such 
 an occasion in the old capital naturally aroused the wildest enthusi- 
 asm. According to custom, and that the festivities should be con- 
 ducted with proper order and dignity, the city was divided into as 
 many parts as there were electors. Much pomp and rivalry were 
 displayed, the different representatives of the various courts vying 
 with one another. The elector of Hanover held his court in that 
 portion of the city known as the Rossmarkt and Grossen Hirsch- 
 graben. One of the handsome houses in that part of the city be- 
 longed to the mother of the distinguished poet, Goethe. This was 
 not the first coronation Frau Rathin had witnessed, nor would it 
 be the last. She wrote to a friend that she was "a prisoner in the 
 house, waiting for the officers to come and tell her whom she 
 should entertain. But," continues she, " I have always something 
 to do. My son sends me books and papers in abundance." 
 
 When it was decided that the two young Darmstadt princesses 
 were to be her guests, she was delighted. Her place for witness- 
 ing the ceremony was in a window in the Romer, near the clock, 
 assigned to her out of compliment to her husband's memory, who 
 had been one of the chief magistrates of Frankfort-on-the-Main. 
 Yes, this cheerful, gay, winning " Frau Rathin," as she was called, 
 was in a great glee over the arrival of her young guests. 
 
 After returning from the exciting scene of the coronation, she 
 and the young princesses went up the highly-polished old stairway 
 in her house, which leads to many rooms, and to an alcove which 
 Goethe, her distinguished son, especially cared for. There the 
 Frau Rathin sat down, almost out of breath from the fatigue and 
 
8 Cbe /footber ot an Emperor 
 
 excitement of the day, and looked around on the table for a letter 
 from Wolfgang; "for he certainly has written," she exclaimed, 
 "now that he has failed to come." Finding no letter from her 
 son, whom she justly idolized, she quieted down for awhile from 
 her usual hilarity. 
 
 The young princesses stood at the window, which overlooks 
 the old plastered court-yard, and said they wanted a drink of water. 
 " Shall we not go," said Louise, "and pump it for ourselves?" and 
 away they ran, escaping the notice of Frau Rathin, but alas! not 
 of their governess, who spied the young creatures at their sport 
 and flew after them in a rage. This provoked the dear, old, good- 
 natured Frau Goethe to such a degree that she exclaimed : " Shame 
 on you! I shall lock you up in this room before you shall disturb 
 the dear, young creatures. Are they not bound down enough by 
 court etiquette when with the grand duchess ? When they are in 
 my house they shall do as they please !" 
 
 The Emperor Leopold II of Austria lived only two years after 
 his coronation. His crown was placed upon the head of his son, 
 Francis II, and once again the old capital was alive with festivity. 
 A description of this occasion was written by Goethe in his usual 
 wealth of diction and local color. 
 
 Louise and her sisters were allowed once more to go to Frank- 
 fort-on-the-Main, and afterward to attend the ball at Coblentz, in 
 honor of the coronation. Prince Metternich writes in his memoirs : 
 "I opened the ball with the young Princess. Louise of Mecklen- 
 burg, who, afterward, as Queen of Prussia, was distinguished for 
 her beauty and noble qualities. She is said to have worn shoes on 
 this occasion, made by her own hands." The hair was arranged 
 in a most distinguished style, which certainly increased the splen- 
 dor of her face. Her full, rosy lips, and large, sympathetic eyes 
 attracted admiration throughout her entire life, not only from roy- 
 alty, but from all who looked upon her ; and her magnificent figure, 
 commanding and self-poised, was truly that of a queen. 
 
 The winter of this same year — 1792-1793 — brought an invitation 
 to the young princesses to meet Frederick William II of Prussia at 
 Mainz, where his army was encamped. Goethe tells us that he 
 happened to be in camp at this time, and it was partly for his 
 

 Original Sketches by Mary McArthur Turtle 
 Copyright owned by the Open Court Maga- 
 zine Co., Chicago, and loaned for this work 
 
Gbe d&otbet of an Emperor 9 
 
 pleasure that a promenade was arranged for the princesses. When 
 the hour came for their arrival, he says, " I flew to my tent, buckled 
 myself in, and, by peeping through, witnessed the promenade of 
 the royal party." In the excitement and confusion of war-scenes, 
 which all were accustomed to, these young creatures seemed like 
 angels going to and fro among the tents. The Crown Prince Fred- 
 erick and his brother, Ludwig, were equally impressed by them, 
 and found it no effort to fall in love with them. " She must be the 
 one, or no one on earth," said the crown prince in regard to Louise ; 
 and, sure enough, on Christmas-day, 1793, Louise gave to Prince 
 Frederick William, in the White Hall of the palace at Berlin, a 
 pledge for life ; and the tears which filled her large, blue eyes in 
 that hour testified to her sincerity. Happy beyond expression 
 was this young royal pair, realizing little but their own attachment. 
 The reign of terror, which alarmed France, all Europe agitated — 
 these facts had little significance to them just now. 
 
 One of the first presents Louise received from her husband 
 was a small phaeton. She greatly preferred to drive out in it, in- 
 stead of ordering the royal carriage with the eight spanned and 
 the body-guards. This simplicity of taste rather shocked the la- 
 dies in waiting. The prince and princess were altogether " too 
 modest to suit them." ("My single phaeton and iron bedstead," 
 said the late Emperor William, " are hereditary privileges. I have 
 the tastes of my mother.") 
 
 The 3-oung royal pair became greatly beloved by the people, 
 and many anecdotes are preserved in which they are said to have 
 always had the poor at heart One morning a count and a shoe- 
 maker happened to be waiting in the anteroom at the same time. 
 "Let the shoemaker come in first," said the crown princess, "he 
 has less time than the count." 
 
 It was an age of luxury and display. There was little left of 
 true religion — although literature flourished, and poets like Jean 
 Paul, and even Geothe, sometimes, used the beauty of their art in 
 writing about the superiority of the crown princess. At the early 
 age of twenty-six, Frederick William, the crown prince, will be the 
 king. Noble aims and a noble bearing, much reserve of manner 
 and speech, characterized him as crown prince. 
 
io Cbe /Ifcotber of an Bmpcror 
 
 Chapter II 
 
 THE news reached Berlin on a bitter morning in January, 1793, 
 just about one year previous to the wedding in the palace, 
 that the King of France had been executed. The following October 
 the beautiful Queen of France, Marie Antoinette, followed her hus- 
 band on the scaffold. " O, what a revolution!" says Edmund 
 Burke; "and what a heart I must have to contemplate, without 
 emotion, that elevation and that fall! Little did I dream that I 
 should have lived to see such disaster fallen upon her in a nation of 
 gallant men, in a nation of men of honor and of cavaliers." 
 
 The terrible news from France alarmed every crowned head in 
 Europe, and our young crown prince and princess were so saddened 
 by the revolutionary state of affairs that they staid quietly in 
 their palace, and seemed to have little heart for the elegance about 
 them ; indeed, court etiquette and court festivities were very irk- 
 some to them. 
 
 On the 10th of March, which was the birthday of the crown 
 princess, the king desired to celebrate it in a manner which would 
 convince Louise of his real affection for her. For a gift he pre- 
 sented her with a palace at Oranienburg, and then, turning to her, 
 he said, "Louise, have you still a wish in your heart?" 
 
 She looked at him with that wonderful charm of countenance 
 which was peculiar to her, and said, "Yes, a handful of money for 
 the poor." 
 
 " That depends," said the king, "upon how large the handful is 
 to be." 
 
 "As large as the heart of the best of kings," was Louise's 
 prompt reply. 
 
 She walked through the markets, leaning on the arm of the 
 crown prince, and distributed money right and left ; and the poor 
 old women and the ragged children were overjoyed, not alone with 
 their money, but with the sight of the beautiful crown princess. 
 
TZbe dbotber of an Bmp^rot 
 
 As this was in March, she may have worn this very leghorn bon- 
 net which is kept among her relics. She is now only seventeen 
 years old, full of simplicity, beauty, and unostentatious in every 
 way. Both she and the crown prince are truly beloved by the peo- 
 ple over whom they will reign in course of time. 
 
 The Emperor Francis II of Austria was weak and vacillating, 
 as was also our Prussian King Frederick William II. He and the 
 Emperor Francis were anxious to see the French Republic over- 
 thrown ; but they were also interested in conquests of their own- 
 in other words, they had "two irons in the fire," and were not 
 very successful in looking after either. 
 
 Our Prussian king has only three more years to live. If he 
 could have known this, like most mortals, he would have made 
 different plans. He determined, however, in the early months of 
 1795, to sign the Treaty of Basle, which, in a way, meant peace with 
 France. This agreement between France and Prussia was "the 
 first of the Treaties of Basle." Prussia ceded to France the German 
 possessions on the left bank of the Rhine, under certain conditions 
 which afterwards caused much trouble; for although Frederick 
 William II died two years later, yet the pernicious acts of his reign 
 left a difficult situation for his son Frederick William III and 
 Queen Louise. 
 
 The policy of the Austrian Emperor Francis II had differed 
 somewhat from that of the Prussian King in relation to France. 
 But a month previous to the death of Frederick William II the 
 Treaty of Campo Formio was signed after lengthy discussion. 
 
i2 £bc /Hbotber of an Bmpcror 
 
 Chapter III 
 
 r T is the beginning of a new century. Frederick William III 
 *■ and Queen Louise have reigned four years. By the reconstitu- 
 tion of February 9, 1801 (peace of Luneville), the free cities of 
 Germany were reduced to six, while the reconstitution of Germany 
 in 1803, accepted by the Diet of Ratisbon, broke down the fabric 
 of the old Holy Roman Empire. No more coronations at Frank- 
 fort-on-the-Main, few more festivities. This great change in the 
 affairs of Francis II, Emperor of Austria, naturally affected the 
 convictions of our Prussian King. It is a curious fact in history 
 that the eventful year of 1797, in which his father died, and the 
 Emperor Francis II signed the Treaty of Campo Formio, was the 
 same year in which the late Emperor William was born. Could 
 his discouraged parents have had the inspiration which his achieve- 
 ments brought to the Fatherland in 1871, how much of the gloom 
 settling about them could have been dispelled, and how much glory- 
 re-established, if not actually, yet prospectively! If they had 
 known that William, their son, would rise up, like a giant, to cre- 
 ate a new German Empire, what pride of heart would have pos- 
 sessed them ! But they only knew that they were facing a new 
 century full of alarm and danger! 
 
 It was the policy of Frederick William III to keep Prussia neu- 
 tral — to play the part of indifference, possibty. He was tired out 
 with the continuous fermentation of European politics; for he had 
 known little else from his } r outh on, and he was a man of domestic 
 habits, satisfied with the joys of his home life and his beloved 
 queen. He was a man of excellent personal qualities; not very 
 energetic, however, or ambitious, nor especially clear in judgment 
 or intelligence. But Louise, his wife, was not only energetic, but 
 ambitious, and with a just pride and appreciation for the ancestors 
 of her husband, and the true dignity of the house of the Hohen- 
 zollerns. Prussia took no part in the coalition of Austria and Rus. 
 
Queen Louise by Gustav Richter. 
 
 By permission of The Berlin Photographic 
 
 Company, New York. 
 
S: 
 
 ■»• 
 
 X 
 
The private Chapel of Frederick William III and 
 Queen Louise in the Charlottenburg Palace. 
 
 Sketch by Mary McArthur Tuttle. 
 
 [The King and Queen were Protestants. * Without interference in religious be- 
 lief, a religious spirit was encouraged by the Government. The Evangelical 
 Union was founded in 1817 as a testimonial of reconciliation between the Luther- 
 ans and the Reformed Churcnes— it being the Third Centennial celebration of 
 the Reformation. King Frederick William III used all his influence to accom- 
 plish this!] 
 
Gbe dfcotber of an Bmperot 13 
 
 sia in 1805, who were more than ever determined to lessen the 
 power of Bonaparte, who was proclaimed Emperor of the French, 
 May 18, 1804. Louise warns the king of this weak policy. He 
 simply agrees to give up Cleves to France, and Anspach to Bavaria, 
 and take possession of Hanover under certain provisions. In, two 
 short months from this time, " Prussia was obliged definitely to ac- 
 cept Hanover by a supplementary treaty ;" a fact which provoked 
 England, who was Prussia's friend. The people grew very restless 
 under this policy. The death of William Pitt, January 23, 1806, 
 and the succession of Lord Grenville and Fox to office, convinced 
 Napoleon that he had better negotiate for peace with England, so, 
 as a "peace offering," he compelled Prussia to restore Hanover to 
 England. This aroused Frederick William III, and war was inev- 
 itable. He rose to meet France, when he must meet her, with no 
 allies but Saxony, Weimar, and Russia (whose aid was not to be 
 had at a moment's warning). Dangerous times for Prussia to as- 
 sert herself. But the king will no longer keep quiet. Louise 
 accompanied the king to the camp at Weimar. The da}- before the 
 battle of Jena she returned to Berlin. Before she could reach the 
 city, a messenger overtook her, saying, "All was lost!" After the 
 battle of Jena, October 14, 1806, Napoleon soon felt himself master 
 of Germany. On October 27th he entered Berlin through the 
 Brandenburg gate in triumph. The Chariot of Victory, which 
 surmounts the gate he had taken down as a trophy, and sent to 
 Paris; also the sword of Frederick the Great. Frederick William 
 III fled to Ciistrin, where he joined the queen, they having parted 
 on the morning of the battle of Jena. From Ciistrin they took 
 up their flight to Kdnigsburg. From this far-off outpost of their 
 kingdom they soon learned that all was lost. " Thus I see," 
 exclaimed Louise, "an edifice destroyed in a da}-, on the erection 
 of which great men have labored for two centuries." 
 
 In December of this same year, 1806, the queen was very ill 
 with typhus. On the night of the 2 2d the news came that the 
 French were near at hand. A terrible storm was raging, but not- 
 withstanding all obstacles of the elements and of physical condi- 
 tion, the queen declared that "she would rather fall into the hands 
 of God than the hands of that man," and arrangements must be 
 
i 4 Zbe /fcotber ot an Bmpcror 
 
 made to take up the flight to Memel. This was not accomplished 
 until the 3d of January. Three days and nights were spent on that 
 awful journey, " now in the waves of the sea, now in ice, the nights 
 in the most wretched hovels." 
 
 The sufferings of the royal family were great indeed ; for Napo- 
 leon had not only been the man of war, but had showed himself to 
 be a man devoid of nobility in all the details of his conduct in Berlin. 
 
 In July, 1807, the Emperor of Russia, Alexander, and Napoleon 
 met on a raft in the river Niemen. There they agreed upon terms 
 of peace. Alexander pleaded for Prussia, but Napoleon was arro- 
 gantly unreasonable. Alexander told Frederick William perhaps 
 the presence of the queen would soften Napoleon's feelings, and so 
 the proud queen, the beautiful woman whom he had slandered, 
 had to wait at Tilsit for an interview — to meet Napoleon, the man 
 for whom she had untold bitterness in her heart. He, w T ith char- 
 acteristic abruptness, not caring for her crushed pride nor her days 
 of exile, said, " How could you think of making war upon me ?" 
 
 Scarcely able to control her voice, she replied, "Sire, we were 
 mistaken in our resources, in our calculations." 
 
 "And you trusted in Frederick's fame, and deceived yourselves?" 
 said Napoleon. 
 
 The queen allowed her ingenuous countenance to beam on Na- 
 poleon as she again answered him : 
 
 "Sire, in the strength of the great Fredrick's fame, we may be 
 excused for having been mistaken with respect to our power and 
 means at our command, if, indeed, we have been entirely mistaken." 
 
 One of the famous artists of Germany has represented her in 
 this dignified moment, as she descends the stairs to meet Napoleon. 
 Napoleon was impressed. He told Talleyrand : " I knew I should see 
 a beautiful woman, and a queen with dignified manners, but I 
 found the most admirable queen and, at the same time, the most 
 interesting woman I have ever seen." She wore, on this occasion, 
 a white crepe dress, richly embroidered in silk, which attracted 
 Napoleon's eye. 
 
 "Is it crepe? India gauze?" said he, touching the fine material. 
 
 "Shall we speak of such light things at a moment like this?" 
 said Louise. 
 
Portrait of Queen Louise about the time of the 
 meeting with Xapoleon at Tilsit. 
 
ZZfTTT^, 
 
 The bed room In the Chariot ten burg Palace occupied by 
 Napoleon, which Queen Louise refused to enter again 
 
 The room in the Charlottenburg Palace made ready 
 for Queen Louise after Napoleon's departure. 
 
 Sketch by Mary Me A Tutt'e. 
 
£be /tootber of an Smperoc 15 
 
 Napoleon turned a deaf ear to her pleadings for her country, 
 their throne, and their children, for he cared nothing for her 
 crushed pride nor her days of exile. Never in his career did he 
 show less heart than in that interview at Tilsit. 
 
 The ro}-al ones returned to their sad abode at Konigsburg, the 
 onry place left them on Prussian soil, where they had already en- 
 dured so much exposure. 
 
 '■Let us be stead}- and patient, and wait, and God will help us," 
 said the king. But not until 1809 were they helped back to their 
 kingdom. 
 
 The room in the Charlottenburg Palace, occupied by Napoleon 
 in his arrogance and ruthlessness, while the royal family was in 
 exile, was ordered to be rehung, and all made new, and even then 
 the queen would not enter it. Another room, with white muslin 
 and pink silk draperies, and the bed, with a green satin quilted 
 comforter thrown over it, is still shown to visitors as the room she 
 afterward called "her own." 
 
 Louise was anxious to visit her father's house the following 
 year. There she died, like a queen, beautiful, beloved, angelic 
 even to the last hours. 
 
 She had said during her life she did not care to belong to the 
 spirited, highly intellectual heroines who spend their lives outside 
 of woman's sphere. She felt herself drawn, not so much to the 
 character of Sophia Charlotte, her great predecessor on the throne 
 of Prussia, as to the wife of the great Elector, the pious Louise of 
 Orange. Even the similarity in name was a pleasure to her. But 
 her own account of herself is possibly not so true a picture of her 
 as we get from other sources. Prince Metternich, who danced 
 with her at the ball of Coblentz, says, in his "Memoirs:" "Eleven 
 years had passed since I had seen the queen. I found her sur- 
 rounded by a true halo of beauty and dignity. Queen Louise was 
 endowed with the rarest qualities. She did not excel in what is 
 commonly called esprit, but she possessed a refined tact and 
 strength of mind, for the exercise of which, in a few years, she had 
 onfy too many opportunities. It would be difficult to describe the 
 dignity and grace of her bearing or the impression of sweetness 
 and tenderness her manners made." 
 
16 Cbe dfcotbcr of an Emperor 
 
 But the beautiful Louise, whom we have admired as a child, as 
 a young girl or a crown princess of seventeen, and as a queen, is 
 now about to leave the world, a broken-hearted woman, not know- 
 ing even that her struggles and her forbearance would stand as a 
 saintly example to the nation. It is the year 1810, and she is 
 dying. The splendid victory at Leipsic has not yet been won, 
 nor has the Te Deum over the decisive battle at Waterloo been sung. 
 
 The women of Berlin, three years after her death, gave their 
 gold ornaments for the benefit of their country, and received, in 
 place of them, iron in like patterns, which are shown as sacred 
 relics in Germany to this day. 
 
 The mausoleum at Charlottenburg contains the splendid recum- 
 bent figures of Frederick William III and Queen Louise. They 
 were sculptured by Rauch, in whom the queen had found genius for 
 art while he was serving as a page in the palace. She sent him 
 to Italy to study. Canova and Thorwaldsen encouraged him. 
 After the queen's death, Frederick William III gave Rauch an 
 order for these tombs. More exquisite art is seldom found, either 
 among ancient or modern productions. 
 
 Reprinted from the Western Christian Advocate, Cincinnati, by courtesy 
 of Jennings & Pye, Publishers. 
 
The recumbent statues of King Frederick William III 
 and Queen Louise : Charlottenburg Mausoleum. 
 
Last, the Prussian trumpet blew: 
 Thro' the long-tormented air 
 Heaven flash'd a sudden jubilant ray, 
 And down we swept and charged and overthrew. 
 ********* 
 
 In that world's-earthquake, Waterloo! 
 
 -Tennyson's Ode on the Death of the 
 Duke of Wellington. 
 
from rbe Baltic to the Bt>riattc. 
 
 W> hesitated quite awhile before deciding to expend the neces- 
 sary amount for a trip from Berlin to Danzig. The historical interest 
 of Marienburg, through which we would pass on our return, and the re- 
 puted picturesqueness of Danzig we hoped would compensate us, how- 
 ever, for the time and money. At an early hour one September morning 
 we drove across the busiest portion of Berlin (the most unknown to 
 the traveler), to take our train at the ost bahn. I had seen this 
 portion cf the city only once before, when v/e started to visit the 
 country cf the Wends, the original people in all the region of the 
 Baltic. 
 
 The tedious stretch of sand broken here and there by a peasant's 
 house with red tile roof was the same we traversed so often in leaving 
 Berlin for other neighboring towns and cities. This inevitable 
 '•plain of Moab" which discouraged Frederick the Great's French 
 gardeners. How such a thriving, populous city as Berlin has ever 
 asserted itself in the sand, is a problem. V/e passed Bismarck's es- 
 tate in Pomerania ^P^'f^isJ' and one of the party reflected 
 upon the great statesman, the largest factor in German political life; 
 while the other remembered the sad and dejected royal pair which 
 were driven by Napoleon's lury to take this same route to Memel. 
 The lovely Queen Louise and Frederick William III when there 
 with their royal children, prayed that the tyrant's hand might be 
 stayed, and they brought back to their rightful kingdom. Alas! 
 death claimed the beautiful queen before the peace for which she 
 prayed was restored to Prussia. But in her son, the present Em- 
 peror, ther3 has been perpetuated the spirit of his mother. 
 Prussia's high position to-day has been secured not altogether by the 
 might of her great army, ,or the tremendous genius of her great 
 
JProm tbe Baltic to the BOriattc. 
 
 statesmen, nor the ambition of her kings, but by the growth of senti- 
 ment during the reigns of Frederick William III, and IV., and by 
 the precept Queen Louise instilled into her sons during those dark 
 and sorrowful days of exile: "My sons, let the spirit of Frederick 
 the Great animate you." 
 
 Slofinberg and CfliiTin were passed, and finally the blue Baltic 
 and Danzig were in sight. We had almost looked for amber- 
 colored water, so long had we associated the beautiful display of 
 amber jewels in the Berlin shop windows with the Baltic, from which 
 it is taken. Even Homer refers to the Baltic as the resting place of 
 amber, its bed being laid with the sunny stone. 
 
 A multitude of ship-masts rose from the coast, and from beyond 
 the pointed gables of the old city, lessened in altitude as the vista 
 lengthened. This first glimpse was a more fascinating picture than 
 we were afterward able to find Yet the hotel helped the precon- 
 ceived idea that Danzig was really a second Nuremberg, 
 
 The broad stone steps, or stairway, which started from the 
 portecorhere, were whitened by ashes, as one so often sees them in 
 Germany — a pretty state of things for a lady descending in a black 
 dress. The room we were to occupy was an immense ball-room, 
 utilized in quiet times for a bed room. Two candles burned in their 
 tall candlesticks on the center table, and by the light of the twilight 
 we could see across the street some beautiful and curious carvings 
 in the opposite gabled houses. The price paid for accommodations 
 was large enough to have enabled us to see castles in the air, and 
 to have our ball-room illuminated by chandeliers until morning. We 
 concluded they seldom had guests in this hotel, and therefore made 
 heavy profits when some did come along. 
 
 That evening we wandered around the old crooked streets — paved 
 in cobble-stones, which wore our shoes almost in pieces — until we 
 were glad to pause in front of the great old ted-brick cathedral. 
 Its towers cut the big yellow moon in two at every angle we could 
 see them. We raised our eyes to take in the tremendous 
 
M McA. T 
 
 The Louise Island. 
 
 Thier Garten, Berlin. 
 
ffrom tbe Baltic to tbe Striatic. 
 
 dimensions of the cathedral, and the ornamentations of some of the 
 best houses, until we suddenly remembered that it was nearing mid- 
 night, and that we had been in actual service at sight-seeing and 
 traveling since an early hour that morning, so we returned to our 
 ball-room and two candles. The next morning, we imagined, we 
 would have a great treat in hunting up old carved furniture, for which 
 Danzig, we had been told by our German friends, was equal to Augs- 
 burg ; but the antiquarians had left no place unexplored. No trace 
 of massive-legged table or curiously-carved chairs was to be found, 
 save in the Museum and the Rathhaus (Council Hall). The stair- 
 way of the Council Hall remains indeed a monument to the ingenious 
 designer and skillful carver, and the judge's chair is most curious. 
 
 A fine old convent has been turned into a museum. Its hreuz- 
 ga'ngCy or cross-passages, gave the place a most mysterious, se 
 questered air, and they are gradually collecting some great pictures 
 and treasures within its walls. But the Rathhaus, in its architec- 
 ture, surpasses everything in Danzig, excepting, perhaps, its fine old 
 gateways. 
 
 The most distinguished houses in Danzig have on either side of 
 the entrance, at a distance of five feet, immense stones hewn out of 
 solid rock. They are nine feet, probably, in circumferance. A 
 chain is attached, which is given a graceful swing before being 
 fastened again to either side of the front door, about as high up as 
 the brass knocker. As these big round stones grow smaller in 
 perspective, they give a peculiarity to a street. They seem to be 
 peculiar to Danzig, unless one or two dwellings in Edinburgh have 
 them. The big stone, the large chains, the tremendous brass 
 knockers, and the innumerable windows in the six stories of the 
 pointed gables, suggest aristocratic dwellings, and surpass the houses 
 in Nuremberg. 
 
 An important political meeting at Stettin, which my husband de- 
 sired to attend defeated our intention of seeing Marienburg on our 
 return to Berlin. Marienburg is a place few foreigners find out, but 
 
ifxom tbc JBaltic to tfoe Bortatic. 
 
 Lubke. in his "History of Art," represents the architecture of the 
 palace occupied by the knights, or crusaders, for two centuries, as 
 one of the most exquisite ruins in all Germany. Thorn and 
 Konigsbarg were also homes for this order of knights. 
 
 The following day at noon it was rather refreshing to drive into so 
 modern and gay a place as Berlin, and forget that so many people 
 must exist in places like Danzig. Mediaeval life seems still to en- 
 wrap them there as in a garment. Their eyes are closed to any 
 modern idea or project. 
 
 Berlin contains all that is new and progressive in northern Germany. 
 That day as v/e sat in the garden of the "Thiergarten Hotel," eating de- 
 licious salmon, the old emperor drove by in his open carriage, with 
 his faithful jager. He was still a subject for curiosity, as it was so 
 soon after the attempt had been made to assassinate him, June 7, 
 1878. When he was fired on he drove in this same open carriage 
 with this same faithful jdger. The sight of the emperor re- 
 called the previous months which had been so full of politcal stir 
 in Europe. The session of the Berlin Congress, and the occupation 
 of Bosnia by the Austrians had taken place. 
 
 To describe Berlin to those who have not visited it, is simply tell- 
 ing, generally, the size of palaces, the number of art collections, the 
 width of streets, the squares occupied by statues, the places of 
 amusement — but even when these objects and interests are put in 
 writing they leave little impression until the place is seen. But there 
 is another aspect of the great Prussian capital. It is a wonderful 
 place just now, attracting so many foreign students to its university, 
 the best musical talent to its conservatories, and the first military 
 genius within its walls. No matter what branch of study one may 
 choose, the instruction and illustration is right at hand. To the stu- 
 dent of politics it is a most fruitful field, not only because distinguish- 
 ed statesmen frequent its streets every day, but because grave prob- 
 lems in political science are discussed in the Reichstag or taught in 
 the University. The student of physics or of natural sciences can 
 
ink 
 
I UNIV 
 
 3from tbe SSalttc to tbe BDriattc. 
 
 work under Helmholz and others ; the student of music can secure 
 Joachim or Clara Schumann, or the student of art Knaus or Rich- 
 ter. Berlin has no pulpit orator. The Dom is more frequented be- 
 cause of its tombs than for any living influence it extends. It con- 
 tains the coffins of Frederick William, the great elector, and Fred- 
 erick I, king of Prussia. The Mendelssohn choir chants its anthems, 
 and the Emperor and Empress bow at its communion table ; but St. 
 Hedwig's church is better attended. The American Chapel, built by 
 the efforts of Mr. Whright, an American minister to the Prussian 
 court, a devout Methodist, is still occupied and attended by travelers 
 of the American- English type. 
 
 The annual exhibition of pictures in the academy, the many fine 
 concerts, the treasures in the old Museum, the Royal Library, the 
 palaces, and the lovely drives along -'Unter den Linden," are only 
 mentioned to show what Berlin does contain in the way of sights and 
 pleasures. This Unter den Linden, the street so well known, was 
 planned by Frederick William, in the seventeenth century, and is now 
 worn by many royal carriages and busy, hurrying crowds. The street 
 about the opera house is crowded every morning by the eager buyers 
 of tickets, which must be secured in the morning. 
 
 Surely life in Berlin can be made very attractive, but after a long 
 residence there I am convinced that it has little religious spirit. The 
 climate is depressing, the expense of living great. Potsdam, Sans 
 Souci, Charlottenburg, and many other places in the suburbs, are, 
 historically, most interesting. 
 
 It is more compensating in Europe to go from place to place with 
 some special work or subject in view than to go for mere sight-see- 
 ing. Your special work will bring you nearer the people. If your 
 landlady asks you what it is, and you take the trouble to tell her, she 
 or some of her friends will at once see that you know all their ac- 
 quaintances who are engaged in the same line of inquiry, and while 
 the new acquaintances may not be; ^socially or intellectually your 
 
from tbc JBalttc to tbe aouatic. 
 
 ideals, yet their conversation will help you in the. language and give 
 you many opportunities. 
 
 Dresden I only know through hard work in the galleries, although 
 all its sights are familiar — the Schloss, Green Vaults, with their im- 
 mense treasures, the Military Museum, Museum of Natural History, 
 the Grand Opera House, the Frauenkirche, Japanese Palace, cafes, 
 coinages and statues ; yet the picture gallery, with its priceless "Ma- 
 donna di San Sisto" of Raphael, is to most travelers the starting 
 point of interest and the essence of Dresden life. 
 
 From eight o'clock in the morning until four o'clock in the after- 
 noon faithful copyists labor in the gallery. The price received for 
 their work scarcely keeps them from starving. Togo in among them 
 for a time and work and feel as they do, enlarges one's sympathies, 
 and teaches one to love the masterpieces of the great artists. To 
 the uninitiated in such matters it may be well to explain that before 
 the permission is given to copy a picture in any of the European 
 galleries, a good deal of red tape must be looked after, especially 
 in Germany. The director demands a specimen of the applicant's 
 work, which must be a study from nature, either figure or landscape 
 or still life. It is with considerable trepidation that the office of the 
 "Herr Director" is entered. If the applicant is successful, he or 
 she comes out with an elaborate paper containing the agreement, the 
 name of picture to be copied, the number, room, &c, with the di- 
 rector's name and the seal attatched. One of the gallerie diener, 
 as they are called in Germany, takes you under his care, arranges 
 an easel, a piece of carpet, a rest-stick and table. You are recog- 
 nized among the copyists, and the hat of every gallerie diener is 
 raised at your approach or departure. When you have finished, the 
 inspector is allowed to criticise your work. You must pay the 
 diener who has waited upon you some trink geld, or a fee, as we 
 would express it. At noon you can eat your cold lunch, in com- 
 pany with the other copyists, in front of a Raphael or a Correggio, a 
 Titian or a Rubens, scrutinize its merits or laugh at its blunders, or 
 
tfrom tbe Baltic to tbe HDiiatic. 
 
 speculate on the old master's methods of using their pigments, with- 
 out being amenable to any code. An artist's life is a life of independ- 
 ence of thought, at least. Many of these copyists spend their afternoons 
 in sketching, thus establishing their originality and emancipating 
 themselves from servile observance of other men's methods. In 
 company with these plodding, intelligent artists, I have spent many 
 delightful hours sketching in the "Alt Market," or the Zwinger, or 
 at Sans Souci or Charlottenburg. * 
 
 I have often wondered if the little Greek church in the suburbs of 
 Dresden was as attractive to all travelers as to me. It is surrounded 
 on one side by golden wheat fields, with red poppies and dark blue 
 corn flov/ers growing among it. Its gilded dome, semi-domes, and 
 minarets, shine like blazing lights against the dark blue sky. The 
 style is such pure Byzantine and the inside so perfect in its appoint- 
 ments, and yet so simple ; the service conducted in so solemn and 
 devout a spirit, there seems to be much to impress the looker-on. 
 There are no seats. On one side stand the women and on the other 
 side the men, and before the altar the patriarch, or priest. The 
 service is short, consisting almost entirely of singing by the men and 
 boys, without the aid of an instrument. When the plate is passed 
 for the collection it contains a roll of bread. Every Russian is obliged 
 to take the sacrament once a year ; the priests take it every Sunday, 
 and the congregation at will. Their belief that the Holy Ghost pro- 
 ceeds from the Father, and not from the Father and Son, seems to be 
 the most essential difference in creed between the English Church 
 and the Greek. 
 
 A summer in the Harz Mountains, taking in Weimar and Eisenach, 
 and the "Wartburg." is a charming experience. To find out that 
 one can live in this age in so interesting a retreat as Weimar, for 
 
 * My husband had left me in Dresden during the summer of 1878 while he 
 went to Servia and Bosnia— a trip afforded him from the London Daily News 
 (for which he was the Berlin correspondent,) out of courtesy for his able work 
 during the Berlin Congress See page XXVI, Biographical Sketch, History of 
 Prussia; Vol. IV. 
 
from the Baltic to tbe Bortatic. 
 
 twenty dollars a month, gives back some of the simplicity to Ger- 
 man life. 
 
 To a student of Goethe, Schiller, Wielind and Herder, no spot 
 offers more pleasure than the quiet, old streets and groves and 
 houses of V/eimar. A mere drive through the park, passing Goethe's 
 summer house and on out to "Tiefert," where the Grand Duchess 
 Amelia held her little court, and the open air theater attracted a 
 charming coterie to listen to Goethe or Schiller in some 
 representation, re-awakens the genius of the times and arouses the 
 appetite of the traveler for more acquaintance with the place. The 
 next drive or stroll through the park will prove that every stone con- 
 tains some rhyme, and every bench some association with those 
 great men. There is a line to Frau Von Stein in the garden of 
 Goethe's country house, an elegy engraved on the stone as one 
 ascends to the Roman house in the park. The front approach to 
 this house is not so attractive, but the back is a fascinating place. 
 It contains on the first floor an open room with round table and 
 benches, where the Duke and his poets sat for hours, looking over 
 the old stone steps into the park. A short stroll from there brings 
 one to the large open space, in the middle of the park, which was 
 laid out by Goethe, and represents precisely the dimensions of St. 
 Peter's in Rome. The immense ground plot of that church is here 
 to be recognized more definftely than when one stands under its 
 dome. 
 
 The grand ducal palace at Weimar contains one unique room, 
 while all the others are handsome. The one which differs from 
 similar palatial apartments is frescoed with scenes from the works of 
 Weimar's great poets. The halls are silent and one longs to see 
 little fat Karl August step out of a saal or the Duchess Amelia 
 greet Goethe or Schiller on the stairway as in days of yore. Mr. 
 Lewis, in his life of Goethe, portrays such scenes with a graphic pen. 
 
 In 1832 the house in the Goethe-platz was left vacant by its great 
 occupant. Its art treasurers, its library, its various collections, 
 
fxom tbe Baltic to tbe Botiatic. 
 
 (showing how comprehensive Goethe's mind was, and how many 
 things he had investigated), were abandoned, as all human efforts 
 must be abandoned, when the silent messenger calls the soul into 
 the presence of its Great Creator, If self-denial is required of those 
 on earth who hope to enter into His rest, then who can answer for 
 Goethe ? But surely the choir of angels in "Faust" sing beautifully 
 of it. 
 
 This house still stands as he left it, and is shown every Friday 
 afternoon to visitors. It has been occupied by his nephew for 
 years. 
 
 The church in which Lucas Cranach's great picture is to be 
 seen, and in which Herder preached, is a cold, heartless structure 
 to a stranger, but its very stones and walls must respond to the 
 prayers of the old inhabitants. The brunnen or town well, in front 
 of Lucas Cranach's house, when surrounded by a crowd of peasants 
 offers a genre picture for an artist. The picture gallery is new and 
 good. A large fresco representing Weimar celebrities is in the 
 front entrance. Bettina Von Arnim is the only woman in the group. 
 Perhaps her correspondence, which is by many considered spurious, 
 will make the artist regret that he has given her so important a posi- 
 tion in this fresco. To take an early breakfast in a pension 
 overlooking some historic grounds, then spend the morning in the 
 gallery and the afternoon in the park, and the evening at the concert, 
 is about the happiest program one can follow in a small German 
 town. 
 
 Eisenach, the capital of Saxe-Weimar, a town of 10,000 inhabi- 
 tants, will always remain associated with Martin Luther. It is the 
 principal town in the Thuringian forest. The old "Wartburg," one 
 and a half miles south of the town, is famous for its architecture and 
 history. Martin Luther, the Elector of Saxony, who rescued him, 
 and earlier the saintly Elizabeth and her cruel husband, are only a 
 few names which are associated with it. Of course the story of 
 
from the asaittc to tbc lunatic. 
 
 the Elector of Saxony rescuing Luther, after the Diet of Worms, is 
 well known. Yet who can resist dwelling upon this bold character 
 of the period. After the Pope's excommunication Luther defies all 
 threats and starts out on his return journey, with the Emperor's 
 promise of a safe conduct ; the decree for arrest follows closely 
 every step. What a picture ! to have these armed knights attack 
 him and carry him prisoner to the old Wartburg. Then to discover 
 afterward that a friend's hand, and not an enemy's had done this 
 thing. There he remained ten months, and there still remain the 
 traces on the wall of the ink he threw at the devil. Perhaps the 
 chapel where he preached on Sundays, is a more becoming and 
 decorous place to associate him with than this little room, always 
 pointed out by the sensational guide. 
 
 The Wartburg has been so beautifully renovated of late, (at the 
 expense of the government.) it is really worth a second visit to those 
 who may have seen it years ago. The banquet hall is certainly 
 superb, and the St. Elizabethengang, with its beautiful frescoes and 
 long narrow proportions, almost enables one to see the good woman 
 walking up and down with her prayer-book, in deep meditation, before 
 starting out through the forest with her attendants, laden with 
 provisions for the poor. It is told that once, when her liege- 
 lord met her, and inquired what she had there (he had strictly 
 forbidden her taking things to the poor), she, with legendary faith, 
 opened the bundle and forthwith the bread became roses. 
 
 Taking your faithful donkey which has brought you up the hill, and 
 your Wartburg album collection of photographs, you find yourself 
 soon wandering through the lovely and fantastic Annathal, and 
 finally resting near the depot at Eisenach. There the untiring finger 
 of your old guide points to Fritz Reuter's house, and at last to his 
 own little bill, which he has carefully prepared and which he expects 
 you as carefully to pay. Never goes money from your pocket more 
 liberally. 
 
 The Harz Mountains, their legends and songs, have been so often 
 
tfrom tbe Baltic to tbe BOrfatic. 
 
 written of there is danger of stupid repetition if one goes over the 
 ground. — Reprinted from The Chautauquan, Meadtnlle, Pa., by 
 courtesy of Theodore L. Flood, editor and publisher. 
 
L£ 
 
 
from tbe Baltic to tbe astatic. 
 
 [Concluded.] 
 
 Travelers are like conchologists, vying with one another in picking 
 up different shells, and herein lies the unending interest of their rec- 
 ord. 
 
 In the roundabout route from the Baltic to the Adriatic and 
 Mediterranean, Cassel, the electorate in former years of Hesse-Cas- 
 sel, afforded a most suggestive visit. To be sure, its history is not 
 altogether pleasant to an American, for the fact that the old elector 
 hired his troops to England to fight us during the Revolutionary war, 
 is a not a savory bit of German history. Even Frederick the Great 
 saw the meanness of it, for when he heard they were to take their 
 route to England by Prussian roads, he sent word, "if they did so, he 
 would levy a cattle tax on them." Perhaps some of the money paid 
 by England at that time was laid up in the public treasury and ex- 
 pended afterward upon the extravagant ornamentation of the grounds 
 of the elector's summer residence, "Wilhelmshohe." The palace is 
 in itself one of the most magnificent in Europe. Above the cascades in 
 front of it is the highest fountain on the continent. "One stream, 
 twelve inches in diameter, is thrown to the height of two hundred feet. 
 The colossal Hercules which crowned the summit of this artificial 
 grandeur was thirty feet high, and the cascades are nine hundred feet 
 long. The whole arrangement is said to have kept two thousand 
 men engaged for fourteen years, and to have cost over ten million 
 dollars !" Jerome Napoleon occupied this palace of Wilhelmshohe 
 when he was king of Westphalia. 
 
 A walk of three miles under the straight and narrow road shaded 
 by lime trees, leads one back to Cassel, after this visit to Wilhelms- 
 hohe. The town is beautifully situated on either side of the river 
 Fulda, and has a population of thirty-tv/o thousand. The beautiful 
 
from Ibe Baltic to tbc BDrtatic. 
 
 Terrace overlooking the auegarten, crowned by its new picture gallery, 
 offers as delightful promenades as the celebrated Dresden Terrace. 
 The strains of sweet music coming up from the auegarten (meadow) 
 while one is looking at the beautiful Rembrandts and Van Dykes in 
 the gallery, give the enchantment which one never fails to find in a 
 German town. Napoleon carried away many of the most valuable 
 pictures from the Cassel gallery —but it is redeemed from the num- 
 ber of horrible Jordaens and Teniers by possessing the "pearl of Rem- 
 brandts," a portrait of "Saskia," his wife. 
 
 Chemical products, snuff included, are manufactured in Cassel, 
 and it is quite a wide-awake business place — the old town preserved 
 for picturesque effect, and the new town building up for enterprising 
 manufacturers. 
 
 Leaving Cassel any day at one o'clock, one can reach Coblenz at 
 half-past seven in the evening, and the Bellevue Hotel will shelter 
 one delightfully for the night, provided a room on the hof, or court, 
 is not given. Four hundred feet above the river at Coblenz stands 
 the old fortress of "Ehrenbreitstein." How fine its old gray stone 
 and its commanding situation is ! No wonder Auerbach, the novel- 
 ist, in his "Villa on the Rhine," devoted so many pages to Ehren- 
 breitstein, the Gibraltar of the Rhine. "It cost the government five 
 million dollars. With four hundred cannon, and capacity to store 
 provisions for ten years for eight thousand men in its magazine," well 
 may it scorn attacks "as a tempest scorns a chain." 
 
 Instead of driving up to see this monstrous fortress, one may pre- 
 fer to wander into St. Castor's Church in the early morning, and, 
 like a devout Catholic, kneel and pray. It may be more restful to 
 thus "commune with one's own heart and be still," than to keep up 
 a perpetual sight-seeing. Charlemagne divided his empire among 
 his grandchildren in this very church. It dates to the ninth century, 
 and is one of the best specimens of Lombard architecture in all the 
 Rhine provinces. Coming out in the morning about ten o'clock, the 
 sun will light up the severe outlines of the great old Ehrenbreitstein 
 
ffrom tbe Jfialttc to tbe Bortatic. 
 
 across the river. Luther's celebrated hymn, u Ein feste Burg ist 
 unser Gott" (A mighty fortress is our God), comes inevitably to the 
 mind. 
 
 We left Coblenz at ten o'clock on the steamer "Lurlei" for Mainz. 
 This romantic name for our boat, the waters we were plying, St. 
 Castor's Church on the left, and Ehrenbreitstein on the right, 
 brought a strange combination of war, romance and religion to the 
 mind. The only prosaic moment which seized me was in passing 
 the Lurlei Felsen on the Rhine — when, instead of remembering 
 Lurlei, I exclaimed to my companion, "Oh ! here is where they 
 catch fine salmon !" Rheinstein was to my mind the most beauti- 
 ful and picturesque castle of all, and being owned by the Crown 
 Prince is kept in becoming repair. The "panorama des Rheim" 
 is a troublesome little companion, for it leaves one not a moment for 
 calm enjoyment and forgetfulness, constantly pointing out the places of 
 interest and crowding their history and romance upon one. 
 
 The Dom at Mainz is a curious study for an architect — combining 
 as it does so many styles and containing such curious old tombs. 
 
 Frankfort, the birthplace of Goethe, and the native place of the 
 Rothchilds family, has too much history to detail in an article like 
 this. When it was a free city it had, and it still retains, I be- 
 lieve, the reputation of being the commercial capital of that part of 
 Germany. 
 
 Goethe preferred little Weimar for the development of his poet- 
 ical life. His father's stately house in Frankfort, still to be seen, 
 was not equal to his own in Weimar. 
 
 But let us leave the Main and the Rhine and look up Nuremburg 
 and Munich before we follow our southern course to the Adriatic. 
 An erratic journey this, but have we not found some shells which the 
 other conchologists overlooked ? 
 
 Nuremberg S2ems to have lost more in population than any Ger- 
 man city we know of. Having once numbered 100,000, it now 
 claims only 55,000. It is a curious fact that Nuremberg toys which 
 
from tbc Baltic to the HC»riattc. 
 
 were so celebrated formerly have been surpassed In this country, and 
 now American manufactures in this line are taken to Nuremburg 
 and actually sold as German toys. This was told me by a gentle- 
 man interested in the trade. Buy a lead pencil in Nuremburg if 
 you want a good article very cheap — perhaps you can learn to draw 
 or sketch with one, being inspired by the memory of Albert Durer. 
 
 Nuremberg is Bavaria's second largest city, and attracts more 
 foreigners or visitors than Munich, perhaps, yet to the mind of the 
 Bavarian, Munich is Bavaria, as to the Frenchman, Paris is France, 
 and to the Prussian, Berlin is Prussia ! No traveler can be con- 
 tented, however, without some time in Nuremberg, although I dare 
 say many go away disappointed. The old stone houses with their 
 carved gables, the walls and turrets, St. Sebald Church, and the 
 fortress where Gustavus Adolphus with his immense army was be- 
 sieged by Wallenstein, are things which never grow tedious to the 
 memory. In this fortress now they keep the instruments of torture 
 used in the middle ages to extract secrets from the criminal or the 
 innocent, as it might chance to be. A German in Berlin laughingly 
 told me when I described the rusty torturous things, that they were 
 all of recent manufacture, and were not the genuine articles at all ! 
 But new or old, genuine or reproduced, they make one shudder as 
 does Fox's "Book of Martyrs." I know of no church in Germany 
 more worthy of study than St. Sebald's. in it one finds a curious 
 old gold lamp, which swings from the ceiling about half way down 
 one aisle of the church. It is called die ewige la mp$ because it has 
 been always burning since the twelfth century. It is related of one 
 of Nuremberg's respectable old citizens that he was returning in the 
 darkness to his home, and finally almost despaired of finding his 
 way, when a faint light from the St. Sebald's Church enabled him to 
 arrive in safety at his own door. He gave a fund to the church 
 afterward for the purpose of keeping there a perpetual light. When 
 the Protestants took St. Sebald's, as they did so many Catholic 
 churches in Germany after the Reformation, the interest on this 
 
ffrom tbe ^Baltic to tbe Borlatic. 
 
 money which the old man gave had still to be used in this way ac- 
 cording to his will. So die ewige lampe still swings and gives its 
 dim light to the passer-by at night. Our American Consul told 
 a characteristic story of an American girl and her mother, whom he 
 was escorting about Nuremberg. They were in St. Sebald's Church, 
 and he related the story of the lamp as they stood near it. Under- 
 neath stands a little set of steps which the old sexton ascends to 
 trim the lamp. "Oh! ' said this precocious American girl, "I shall 
 blow it out, and then their tradition that it has never been out will be 
 upset." So she climbed the steps fast, and as she was about to do 
 this atrocious thing our Consul pulled her back, and said she would 
 be in custody in an hour, and he would not help her out. The 
 mother merely laughed, and evidently saw nothing wrong about the 
 performance. It is just such smart acts on the part of American 
 girls abroad which induced a man like Henry James to write novels 
 about them. The fine, intelligent, self-poised girls travel unnoticed, 
 while the "Daisy Millers" causes the opinion so often entertained 
 about all American girls by foreigners, that they are "an emancipated 
 set" to still exist in a large degree. 
 
 It was our good fortune while in Munich to board with most 
 agreeable people. The Herr Geheimrath (privy counselor) had re- 
 tired from active life of one kind, to enjoy the privilege of being an 
 antiquarian and art critic. He had his house full of most valuable 
 and curious treasures. The study of ceramics was his hobby, and all 
 kinds of porcelain, and earthenwares of the rarest kinds were stand- 
 ing around on his desk, on cabinets and on the floor. He edited 
 Dir Wartburg, a paper which was the organ of Munchener Alter- 
 tJi i im-Verein, and wrote weekly articles Ueber den Standpunkt 
 utiserer heutigen Kit ad. His wife was formerly the hof singerin 
 (court singer) at the royal opera in Munich, but was then too old to 
 continue Every Saturday evening she would give a home concert, 
 and would sing the lovely aria from the "Freischutz," or Schumann's 
 songs 
 
ffrcm the JSaltic to tbe BMl;Uic. 
 
 St. Petersburg never looked whiter from snow than did Munich 
 that winter. The galleries were cold, but the new and old Pinakothek 
 were too rich to be forsaken. Fortunately the new building was just 
 across the street from the Herr GeheimratW a. If it had only been 
 the old Pinakothek I found myself continually saying, for who cares 
 for Kaulbachs. and modern German art, compared with the rich 
 Van Dykes, the Rubens, the Durers, and the old Byzantine school ? 
 I should say the Munich gallery is superior to the Dresden in num- 
 bers, but not in gems But they have fine specimens from the 
 Spanish, the Italian, and German schools. 
 
 The Glyptothek is Munich's boast. There is a stately grandeur 
 in this building that suggests Greece and her art. On a frosty 
 morning, to wander out beyond the Propylasum and enter through 
 the great bronze door of the Glyptothek one feels like a mouse 
 entering a marble quarry. I presume there is no such collection 
 of originals in any country but Italy. Ghiberti, Michaei Angelo, 
 Benvenuti, Peter Vischer, Thorwaldsen. Canova. Rauch. Schwan- 
 thaler, are all represented by original works. But it needs a warm 
 climate to make such a collection of statuary altogether attractive 
 
 Going from Germany to Italy, one takes the "Brenner Pass," 
 generally, over the Alps — the oldest way known, and used by Hanni- 
 bal. After winding around the side of these snowy peaks, and being 
 blinded by the mists enveloping the landscape, trembling with ad- 
 miration or fear, as the case may be, a glimpse of sunny Italy is 
 most encouraging. 
 
 To reach the Adriatic and Venice is enough earthly joy for some 
 souls. Elizabeth Barrett Browning felt so ; and all people feel so, 
 perhaps; Henry James, W. D. Howells, M. Taine and others give 
 themselves up to Venice, and write about her until she becomes 
 identified with their reputation. Fantastic, capricious Venice — 
 "Bride of the Adriatic." 
 
 Now comes Verona. Juliet's tomb is a deception — a modern 
 
fvom tbe jBaltic to tbe Boriattc. 
 
 invention; but the house of Juliet's parents (the Capuletti), an 
 old palace, stands as it did in the days when Shakespeare represents 
 its banqueting halls and good cheer. 
 
 You will be surprised to hear that the Italian gentlemen wore fur 
 on their coats. They were, I imagine, traveled gentlemen, for the 
 genuine Italian, whether count or beggar, has a cloak thrown over 
 his shoulder in bewitching folds. When he pulls his large felt hat 
 over his splendid eyes so that it casts a dark shadow on his 
 mysterious face, and stands in the sunshine, he looks picturesque 
 indeed. Verona is more Italian in appearance than Florence. 
 
 The principal street in Florence runs along either side of the river 
 Arno, and is crowded for some distance with little picture and jewelry 
 shops but farther on toward the ca seine, or park, the street widens, and 
 is enriched with handsome buildings, most of which are hotels. This 
 drive to the cascine and the grand hotel was made when Victor 
 Emmanuel allowed the impression to exist that Florence would re- 
 main the capital of Italy. This drive is thronged with carriages 
 about four o'clock in the afternoon. It was here I remember to 
 have had the carriage of the Medici family pointed out to me. 
 Within sat two ladies with dark lustrous eyes, jet hair, and a great 
 deal of lemon color on their bonnets. The livery was also lemon 
 color, and the carriage contained the coat of arms on a lemon-col- 
 ored panel. The Italians are very partial to this shade of yellow. 
 The beds are draped with material of this same intense hue — very 
 becoming to brunettes, but ruinous, as the young ladies would say, 
 to blondes. 
 
 Every one knows of the old Palazzo Vecchio, which rises away 
 above every object in the city of Florence. Its walls are so thick 
 that in them there are places for concealment — little cells — and in 
 one of these the great reformer of Florence, Savonarola, was kept 
 until they burned him at the stake in front of the palace. 
 
 "Santa Croce" is the name of the church which contains the 
 tombs of Michael Angelo, Alfieri, Galileo, and Machiaveili. Byron, 
 
if rem the 3Caltic to the aeriattc. 
 
 moved with this idea, writes : 
 
 "In Saula Oroce's holy precincts lie 
 
 A.shes which make it holier, dust which is 
 Even in itself an immortality." 
 
 Every American goes to Power's studio naturally proud of the 
 Greek Slave. Next to the Venus of Milo it seems the loveliest 
 study in marble of the female figure But "our lady of Milo," as 
 Hawthorne calls her— because of her classic grandeur — seems to 
 scorn modern ar f . 
 
 The Baptistery in Florence is a curious octagonal church, built in 
 the twelfth century, and has the celebrated bronze doors by Ghiberti, 
 representing twelve eventful scenes from the Bible. Those to the 
 south are beautiful enough, said Michael Angelo, to be the Gates of 
 Paradise. 
 
 As often as we had reflected upon Rome and her seven hills, on ar- 
 riving there the hills seemed to be a new revelation to us, and the 
 rapid driving of the Italians up and down the steep and narrow streets 
 bewildered us not a little. We found ourselves on the way from the de- 
 pot constantly asking, can this be Rome? Everything looks so new. 
 The houses are light sandstone.iike the buildings in Paris. We were in- 
 formed that this portion of Rome was calculated to mislead us, and 
 that some of the hotels in Rome were quite like Paris and New York 
 houses : modern in every respect. 
 
 The next morning, instead of beginning with the classic portion of 
 
 Rome the Forum, the Coliseum, and the Palace of the Cassars — 
 
 we drove to St. Peters. There we spent four hours wandering 
 around, finally witnessing a procession of Priests and Cardinals in 
 their gorgeous robes. They entered from the right, just this side of 
 the bronze statue of St. Peter. 
 
 The interior of this great edifice is in white and gold, and now and 
 then there are wonderful colors coming from side Chapels with the 
 gems- and the paintings about the altars. There are grand propor- 
 tions in this church, perfect simplicity, and the pure light of heaven 
 
2from tbe Baltic to tbe BDtiatic. 
 
 sends a beam upon a golden dove above St. Peter's tomb, which 
 radiates in a thousand streams of light over the marble pavement. 
 
 it is almost necessary to find a niche in the base of some pillar 
 and sit there awhile before plunging into the immensky of this superb 
 building, just as a bird gets ready before darting into space. But 
 after all, the feeling of immensity which St. Peter's gives is not so 
 grateful to the religious sense as the Gothic style of architecture af- 
 fords with its stained glass windows and deep recesses, 
 
 "Its long drawn ai.sies and fretted vaults." 
 The Renaissance did much, but it did not do all ! 
 
 Few ruins impressed me so much in Rome, or suggested the 
 ancient glory than the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. The mag- 
 nificence of this building must have been unparallelled. It is said 
 to have accommodated sixteen hundred bathers at once. What 
 would the old Romans have thought of the buildings of the present 
 generation which fall down or burn up without much warning. 
 
 The different arches and columns of Rome constitute one of its 
 most attractive features. Let those who enjoy them climb their 
 steps or strain their eyes to decipher in a scorching Italian sun the 
 dates, the seven golden candlesticks, the shew bread, and Aaron's rod 
 on Titus's arch, for example. The Roman Forum near by, the old 
 landmarks of ancient Rome fasten the attention for days, and to wan- 
 der through the Capitoline Museum come to the Stanza del Fauno, 
 the room where Rienzi stood and exhorted the people to recover 
 their ancient rights and the basement below where St. Paul was im- 
 prisoned is, indeed, the realization of great thoughts. 
 
 We saw King Humbert and the Queen in a procession where they 
 were driving to gratify the people, and we again saw the King unat- 
 tended driving with his brother through the grounds of the Borghese 
 Villa. The Carnival was forbidden that year in Rome, but there 
 were out-croppings of it on the streets. The tinseled finery and hum- 
 bug of it seem so incongruous in ancient classic Rome. 
 
 The Pantheon is too important in its history for any fragmentary 
 
tfrom tbe JBalttc to tbe Borlattc. 
 
 writing, but I have always liked the following paragraph from James 
 Freeman Clarke concerning it : "The Romans in this church, or 
 temple, worshipped their own gods, while they allowed the Jews, 
 when in Rome, to worship their Jewish god, and the Egyptians to 
 worship the gods of Egypt, and when they admitted the people of a 
 conquered state to become citizens of Rome their gods were admit- 
 ted with them ; but in both cases the new citizens occupied a subor- 
 dinate position to the old settlers. The old worship of Rome was 
 free from idolatry. Jupiter, Juno, and the others were not repre- 
 sented by idols. But there was an impassable gulf between the old 
 Roman religion and modern Roman thought, and Christianity came 
 to the Roman world not as a new theory but as a new life, and now 
 her churches stand by the side of the ruins of the Temple of Vesta 
 and the old empty Pantheon." — Reprinted from The Chautau- 
 quan, Meadville, Pa., by courtesy of Theodore L. Flood, editor 
 and publisher. 
 
Tbome Xife in (Sermanp. 
 
 1874-1878. 
 
 Housekeeping in Germany is reduced to a science : a knowledge 
 of principles gained by experiment and experience. Personal and 
 domestic expenditures are better regulated than in America, for the 
 theories of consumption of capital and consumption of labor are more 
 generally studied. This is especially true in the large cities where 
 the houses are built to accommodate several families. Even the 
 basement rooms are occupied which are built haif above ground 
 and half below. The porter and his family live comfortably in these 
 rooms, which are oftentimes cheerful and cozy. They are ever 
 ready to serve and oblige the "herrschaften" above. The massive 
 front door opens to the touch of a bell attached to a rubber tube and 
 bell, which is secured in the basement of the front room where the 
 cheerful wife of the porter usually sits. This front door is massive 
 and ornamental The plate glass is protected by wrought iron in 
 elegant aresbesque patterns around the monogram of the owner, 
 while the panels of wood below are handsomely carved. The greater 
 number of houses are built of brick, stuccoed, which oftentimes re- 
 sembles stone to such a degree that strangers at first sight are mis- 
 led. Invariably on the inside of the door one sees in large German 
 letters: "Bitte die thiir leise zu zumachen." People going in and 
 out naturally read this request, and while so occupied let the door 
 slam the louder. There are seven to eight and sometimes fourteen 
 rooms on each floor of these apartment houses. If you are a for- 
 eigner examining them with a view to renting one, the -'portier frau" 
 will accompany you around exclaiming: "how comfortable it all is !" 
 
fjome Xife in 0ermang. 
 
 There is a salon or drawing room in the front, a large, finely propor- 
 tioned oblong room with bay window, frescoed ceiling, well papered 
 walls, inlaid floor Sometimes there are two rooms front or even 
 more, according to the expense of the building, as a wide frontage 
 presupposes much wealth. If. however, there are only two rooms 
 front one is the library, usually with a small balcony attached. The 
 dining room opens from the drawing room and is aiso oblong with 
 an alcove and bay window overlooking the court. The portier frau 
 always explains as she throws open the folding doors between the 
 drawing room and dining room, "how splendid they look during a 
 dinner party." Next you follow your guide through a long narrow 
 hall, passing bed rooms, bath room, and kitchen. The bed rooms 
 are much smaller in Germany than in the American house, although 
 modem innovations in large cities have brought them up to handsome 
 proportion. But the genuine German, no matter how distinguished, 
 even the great Goethe himself, preferred the small sleeping apart- 
 ment opening into a large room which is for ventilation — direct drafts 
 being considered most detrimental to health. Mr. Lewis in his biog- 
 raphy of Gcethe never fails to express astonishment at the small dark 
 room in which the great man slept and finally died In the hand- 
 some old house at Weimar the spacious reception rooms and com- 
 modious dining room contrast strangely to the Englishman's mind, 
 with the contracted bed room. The theory, however, is all right — 
 for the German regards the bed room as merely a place for repose, 
 and instead of sitting in a bed room, as is oftentimes a habit with 
 other people — the sitting room is attached to the bed room. But as 
 1 have already said, in the modern German cities there is no longer 
 so much discrepancy between bed room and salon. 
 
 The severest comment I ever heard upon the former, ways, was 
 made by a disaffected German who came to this country at the time 
 the Hon. Karl Schurz did, but who was not so successful and con- 
 sequently a little embittered with everything — he remarked : "That 
 Berlin houses reminded him with their swell fronts and elegant draw- 
 
Home %\u in (Bermatig. 
 
 ing rooms of the fashion of wearing embroidered chemisettes when 
 the rest of the toilet was mean and contemptible." 
 
 The system by which these houses are rented or occupied is worth 
 our attention since it has become to be a matter of great expense, 
 even in America, for a single house to be occupied by one family. 
 A man who owns an apartment house worth 60,000 thalerswill occu- 
 py the parterre wohunng, or the first floor, while the basement, as 
 we have already explained, will belong to the porter. The bel etage 
 or second floor, as in Paris, is considered the choice apartment and 
 rents high, while the third and fourth bring good prices. It is a good 
 investment, for although the taxes are heavy, yet the outlays for 
 water and gas are met by the renter. 
 
 As to the housekeeping in one of these apartments or wohunngs — 
 the windows being in casement style are easily kept clean, but are 
 difficult to drape. The floors are beautifully inlaid in different col- 
 ored woods and waxed. A characteristic German drawing room 
 will be furnished about as follows : Grand piano, or upright, if pre- 
 ferred ; Smyrna rugs, carved table, sofa and chairs. The table re- 
 moved from the sofa only far enough to allow a stout matron to pass 
 in for her seat in one corner, which is her prerogative, especially if 
 she is a titled lady. The chairs are arranged around the table, all agree- 
 ing to color and form. It would be unjust here not to say that the 
 modern fads for bric-a-brac, for elegant Oriental hangings, tapestries, 
 and unique furniture has penetrated the German mind as it has the 
 English and American, and the revival of house decoration is appre- 
 ciated in Germany by those who have the means to investigate the 
 subject, but the house we describe is "pre-assthetical" and stands 
 for German taste which will compare favorably with the American 
 house before the highly assthetic fever developed. The dress circle 
 of Smyrna rug, sofa table and chairs, is the center of attraction, yet 
 the opposite walls and corners are not neglected. Pedestals with 
 choice bits from the antique or a lady's writing desk with delicate 
 note paper ready for her use, an embroidered chair for her service, 
 
tyomc TLifc in (Beriming. 
 
 a rich robe for her feet, make up the accessories. If good pictures 
 cannot be purchased the German, generally speaking, prefers blank 
 walls. Steel engravings from the old masters are frequently found, 
 but seldom oil paintings or water colors unless they be of intrinsic 
 value. In this particular Americans can learn much from foreign- 
 ers. Oftentimes the wood work of an American house, its rugs and 
 carpets, its furniture, its silver, china and glass, will all be decidedly 
 above its pictures in value. 
 
 The arrangement of the Teutonic lady's drawing room is so nation- 
 al that the palace and the poor man's house has the link of resem- 
 blance ; for no m?tter how inferior the sofa, the table, or the chairs, 
 they will be placed in relation the one to the other, as we have de- 
 scribed. This impresses the foreigner as being a bit dull, and the 
 American or English woman living in Germany avoids all proximity 
 of sofa and chairs. 
 
 The gemiithlichkeit, which may be translated into various words 
 in our language, such as friendliness, good nature, kindheartedness, 
 snugness, something comfortable or even lackadaisical, shows itself 
 during a Kaffee Klatsch, to as great a degree as elsewhere. The 
 hour of four o'clock is given almost invariably to a sip of coffee and 
 good conversation. If there have been special invitations twenty or 
 more women appear with fine work or knitting. The table is spread 
 with spotless damask, upon which the Kaffee is served. The silver 
 urn is covered with a quilted hood to keep it warm — flanked on either 
 side by baskets of cakes. Here the sipping and the knitting and the 
 gossiping begin. It is the honr sans-sonci for women — where all the 
 ingenuousness and cleverness of the German mind appears. On 
 such an occasion I remember to have heard a German say — "but 
 how strange the way the Americans pay their physicians Here it 
 is so much a year whether their services are needed or not. Some 
 years it happens to be sure that a large family will have much sick- 
 ness, but the doctor asks no more than if there had been no sickness. 
 Fifty thalers is the usual amount for a small family. And in Amer- 
 
,,*i 
 
 ^ 
 
 f)ome TLite in Germans 
 
 ica how do you suppose they reckon a doctor's visit? And then 
 Germany has professional nurses even in the smallest places — but 
 there it is not so." Among the books in a German library, unless it 
 be the home of a gelehtre, who, of course — owns a large share of 
 books — the standard German authors are to be found — Goethe, Schil- 
 ler, Wyland, Heine. Schlegel's translations of Shakespeare, Hum- 
 bolt's travels, Hegel and Strauss perchance if the paternal mind is 
 a trifle unorthodox — but Martin Luther is the great guide to relig- 
 ious thought among the Protestants. 
 
 The dining room contains an alcove with bay windows in the apart- 
 ment house, and there the lady of the house sits much of her time 
 engaged in sewing or reading or giving directions to the maid. This 
 room has in addition to the dining table and chairs, a sofa, some 
 upholstered chairs and two closed cabinets for damask, glass, silver 
 and china. The bed rooms have two mahogany bedsteads, and the 
 making of the bed is a mystery to a foreigner. Feathers below and 
 above, piilows hid during the day under the covers, and finally a white 
 fringed spread thrown over the entire mountain in such a manner 
 that it is impossible to distinguish head from foot. Even the Queen's 
 bed room in the Charlottenburg palace shows this same manner of 
 bed. Of late the sense of the beautiful has brought to light in the 
 shop windows silk quilted spreads and lace coverings, with corre- 
 sponding materials for the bureau. A German lady said to me : 
 "How do the American women make up their beds ? ! must come 
 and learn. But," added she, "I should think they would perish under 
 such thin covers." The bed room floor in Germany is usually 
 painted with yellow ochre and varnished. Small rugs before each 
 piece of furniture. A table with candle, matches, water carafe, is 
 invariably there. During the Philadelphia Exposition a German 
 traveling in this ■ ountry wrote ba< k to friends in Berlin: "How 
 exasperating it is to be lodged in rooms with only a gas jet in the 
 center of the ceiling and to awaken mornings with white walls staring 
 one in the face— oh ! for a candle and tinted walls." 
 
1bomc itte In (BermantJ. 
 
 The kitchen is the German's women pride, and what wonder with 
 its shining rows of brass and copper cooking utensils hanging so 
 orderly against the gray wall, and the beautiful white porcelain oven, 
 brass-doored and brass. knobbed. It is not surprising that "the gra- 
 cious lady," as she is called, likes to take a seat there mornings and 
 talk over the menu for the day with •'Frederika," then unlock the 
 pantry door and survey the clean shelves, all dressed up in white 
 paper, loaded with groceries and confectioneries. What women's 
 heart would remain ungrateful at the sight of such supplies, such a 
 kitchen and so capable a girl as white-capped, white-aproned Fred- 
 erika ? It is indeed an ideal picture, but one often and often seen 
 in Germany. 
 
 Next to the Dutch stove, the German oven is probably the most 
 economical. As regards temperature, if well regulated they are 
 rather satisfactory. They are made of brick covered with porcelain 
 tiles and are built in with the wail of the house. The cost is about 
 seventy.five dollars for those finished in the plain white or cream- 
 colored tiles. Sometimes, however, as in old Nuremberg, the 
 majolica tiles are highly artistic and decorative. In the Gewerbe 
 Museum, of Berlin, there is a collection of old Nuremberg tiles very 
 curious and beautiful. These ovens are usually built in the corner 
 of rooms, oftentimes seven feet high. The fire is located in a fur- 
 nace near the bottom and the heat traverses the structure from side 
 to side along winding passages before reaching the top, where a pipe 
 conveys it when comparatively cold into a flue in the wall. The 
 heated mass of brick continues to warm the room after the fuel is 
 burned. The same quantity of fuel consumed in a German oven in a 
 day would not burn longer than three hours in an open grate. In 
 Northern Germany the poorer classes burn turf and charcoal, while 
 the well-to-do use turf to mix with stone-coal. Previous to the 
 introduction of furnaces wagons of turf were brought to the apartment 
 houses at a very early hour — the horses were unhitched and taken 
 away. The attic rooms of these apartment houses are divided into 
 
Home %nc in Gctmang. 
 
 compartments for storage. Up these long flights of back stairway 
 one could see the sturdy peasant women aged oftentimes carrying 
 basketfull after basketful! of turf to store away for the "herrschaf- 
 ten." 
 
 The fire in German ovens must be lighted one hour before the 
 rooms can be made comfortable. Whiie the fires are beginning to 
 burn the floors are. being polished, which takes the hour which would 
 be given in England or America to the cooking of an elaborate 
 breakfast. If our Continental friends, however, prefer polished floors 
 to gladden their sight on rising, to heavy beafsteaks to warm their 
 stomachs, what reason have we to criticise ? Frederika is lighting 
 not the kitchen fire, but a little spirit lamp underneath the "coffee 
 machine," or boiler, and carrying in the fresh rolls and eggs which 
 she has just received from the baker's wife at the back door, and 
 in ten minutes she will formally announce to the gnadigen herrn and 
 the gnadnige\ frau (gracious lord and gracious lady) that l '-fruh- 
 stuck ist ferfyig" (breakfast is ready). The gnadiger herr will 
 appear wrapped up in a heavy morning vrapper (made of gray cloth, 
 trimmed in mazarine blue) with newspaper in hand, and the gnad- 
 ige frav, will take her seat at the table where the coffee is sending up 
 its smoke She looks, in her morning cap and white apron, surely 
 as healthy as her English sisters, and much more so than the beau- 
 tiful but frail American woman, who sts eating her mutton chops and 
 warm muffins. Who shall settle the question if doctors disagree ? 
 Continental Europe has existed on coffee, eggs and cold bread and 
 never had dyspepsia, while England and America have grown fat or 
 nervous on the beefsteak and muffins. 
 
 The tradition of the German washing must not be overthrown ; vet 
 after a long residence in Germany, and an experience of years in 
 keeping house in a German apartment, I learned to regard the ''grosse 
 wasche" as a necessary development there of the apartment system of 
 keeping house. For instance, there is one common wash-room, and 
 one drying-room ; the family in the parterre ivohung engage it the 
 
Dome mtc in <3crmang. 
 
 first two days in the week, then it belongs to the family on the oppo- 
 site side of the house, so that weekly occupancy is out of the ques- 
 tion. But a foreigner can escape this egregious imposition by send- 
 ing the washing out of the house every week and waiting patiently 
 for it to return in ten days. 
 
 I was asked repeatedly by my German lady friends, "Where is 
 your chest of linen ?" meaning a carved cedar chest containing a 
 wedding dowry of linen, enough to last through four generations, 
 which is quite the thing to be inspected by one's intimate friends 
 even more than the trousseau. How should an American woman 
 answer such a question, or place herself in the favorable estimation 
 of her good German friends again after shocking their education and 
 hereditary taste, by confessing that her house linen and damask 
 were only sufficient for one or two years. There is a sense of pride 
 in the great washing of Germany, little dreamed of by the general 
 observer. 
 
 A cook, house-girl, or kinderm'dchen, and a butler (dien&r) are 
 the usual number of domestics employed by a well-to-do German 
 family where there are children. If there are no children, a cook 
 and diener are sufficient help, even in a large city. In the country 
 one girl is enough. She is Jack-of-all-trades," and gets poor pay 
 and less praise for her proficiency. Her rosy cheeks are only found 
 admirable by some wandering artist, who makes a hasty sketch of 
 her carrying water from the village fountain. Among people who 
 keep up any social style a diener in livery is indispensable He 
 opens the door, serves at the table, sets the table, polishes the floors, 
 does the errands, carries the invitation, walks behind the ladies when 
 they go out, or sits on the box with the coachman when they are 
 driving. Above all, he keeps Freoerika in a good humor by polish- 
 ing the doors of her oven, and sipping coffee with her while the 
 herrschaften are sipping theirs. The wages of this diener are not 
 large compared to American ideas ; he receives, according to his 
 ability, per month, twenty thalers, ten thalers, five, or even two and 
 
"fcome Xite in Germans- 
 
 a half, if he is young, and has never served outside a restaurant. In 
 addition to his wages, he gets good food, or the equivalent in money, 
 which he generally prefers, for he can then eat with the family of the 
 porter below. A domestic must understand his or her work distinctly 
 before entering into an engagement. Each must have a book in 
 which the employer can read the date of birth place of birth, the 
 occupation of the parents, the character of the employe, the recom- 
 mendation or condemnation of the last employer. This book is 
 kept by the lady of the house as long as the servant remains in her 
 service, and when leaving, if the person has been faithful, she is 
 expected to have a good recommendation in the book. There are 
 two classes of cooks in Germany — the finished cook [die fertige 
 kochin), and the cock who is willing to do any kind of work. Die 
 fertige kochin is an educated queen in her department, and like every 
 autocrat, her power renders her unaccountable for her actions. She 
 prefers to do the marketing, and is in league with all the grocers and 
 butchers. This coalition of butchers, bakers, grocers, and cooks in 
 Germany is a confederacy which threatens the hausfrau, the 
 baroness and royal household alike. Socialism ! And who feels it 
 more than the helpless woman with her account books before her 
 knowing there is no remedy if the cook says, "Meat has risen, and 
 the butcher would not take less." An unending task in a European 
 kitchen is dish washing, for six dozen piates in serving the dinner 
 there, go no farther than one dozen in the ordinary American way. 
 The diener is expected to help the cook in this work, and once a 
 week a schauer frau (scouring woman, or woman inspector), comes 
 to help. It is a distracting day in the wirthschaft, and serves as a 
 weekly reminder of what is to come before Christmas and Easter. 
 This schauer frau comes early in the morning, tears down all the 
 kitchen utensils, takes off the brass oven doors, sets all the copper 
 kettles and tin ware in a row, and goes to work scouring them as 
 bright as we would think necessary for a spring cleaning. Then she 
 washes the windows, scrubs the floors, and returns with her fifteen 
 
t>ome life in tfevinang. 
 
 silver groschen in the evening as contented as a woman in America 
 would be with a dollar. Christmas and Easter are the seasons above 
 all other times of the year for thorough cleaning. Then the floors 
 are so highly polished, and the brass knobs and doors of the porce- 
 lain ovens made so brilliant that the servants go round in felt slippers 
 and old gloves, for fear of dimming the luster before the dawn of 
 the sacred days. Christmas is an expensive season for the herr- 
 8ehaften — so many presents expected: the cook, the diener, the 
 porter and the portier /raw, the lamp lighter, the gas man, the 
 butcher, the baker, and candlestick-maker, and above all, the letter 
 carrier. Eight and five dollars are small amounts for the cook and 
 diener. But we must remember the cook's small wages during the 
 year (from five to twelve dollars is the usual monthly wages), before 
 pronouncing the Christmas gift too much. 
 
 Feiertage, or holidays for the domestic in Germany, are great 
 annoyance to the domestic life. They are so impcrtunant in their 
 demands, and so obstinately disagreeable if not gratified, that it is 
 better for the family to go to the restaurant for dinner and "eat bitter 
 herbs where there is peace," than to remain at home for "a stalled 
 ox," with angry servants to serve it. While they demand so much 
 for themselves, they are easily disappointed if the herrschaftea do 
 not celebrate every birthday of their own. The extra work is no 
 consideration ; they show pleasure when extra company is expected. 
 Bouquets are placed on the coffee table by the plate of the member 
 of the family whose birthday has arrived , a cake, with the number 
 of candles to indicate the age of the person is found burning, and 
 Frederika and August have broad smiles on their faces as they come 
 in and rattle off some poetry which they have committed to memory 
 for the occasion, wishing the person whose birthday they are cele- 
 brating gliick and hell. 
 
 Dinner parties are the most frequent and most formal entertain- 
 ments in Germany. They are stereotyped, but the type belongs 
 purely to Germany. When the ladies enter the room, after the in- 
 
t>ome Uife in Oermang 
 
 troductions they are invited to be seated on the sofa and chairs of 
 the "dress-circle" which we have described. The gentlemen stand 
 around the fair ones, bending or breaking their backs in the effort to 
 talk, or the more unconcerned stand off in groups, until the hostess 
 assigns the ladies they are to escort to the table. The seat on the 
 sofa is the seat of honor, and if a lady of inferior rank has arrived 
 first and occupied that place, she rises immediately and resigns it 
 on seeing her superior enter the room ; so that a captain's wife will 
 offer the seat to a major's wife, and a major's wife to a general's 
 wife, and so on. The white-gloved diener throws open the doors of 
 the dining-room ten minutes after the arrival of the guests, and the 
 guests have the privilege of speaking to each other at the table if an 
 introduction has failed in any case in the salon. The dinner is 
 served entirely from the buffet ; the snowy damask, flov/ers and glass, 
 elegant porcelain on the table are all the guests have to feast their 
 eyes upon. The meats are all carved in the kitchen, and handed 
 around by the butler. A good menu resembles the French taste and 
 order somewhat, although a discerning eye will detect the German 
 element in the following : 
 
 Bouillon (consomme). 
 
 Caviar (caviare). 
 
 Salmon du Rhin. 
 
 Pouiets Santes aux Truffes. 
 
 Pate de Foie Gras. 
 
 Filet de Boeuf Garni, Remouladen Sauce. 
 
 Rehbraten, ) . , _ 
 
 Petit Pois, \ Salad Com P° tes - 
 
 Butter und Kase und Radieschen, mit Pumbernickel. 
 Cafe and Fruits. 
 
 There is much leisure, much conversation, and much "toasting," 
 at a German dinner. Instead of the ladies retiring when the cigars 
 and coffee are served, as they do in England, the gentlemen and 
 
1bome lite in Germans. 
 
 ladies leave the table at the same time, and upon entering the salon 
 each guest goes to the host and hostess and offers his or her hand, 
 saying in the most gracious manner, "gesegnete malzcit" (a gracious 
 meal). The guests all shake hands with each other and repeat the 
 same, and then the gentlemen go into the library to smoke, and 
 coffee is taken to them, as it is also brought to the ladies in the 
 salon. The German hostess does not dress for her dinner parties as 
 much as the English women. She is never decollete — generally 
 appears in light or black silk, square neck and half sleeves, with long 
 white gloves. When the hour of departure comes, the diener goes 
 down to the street corner, orders a droschke (cab) for those who 
 have not private carriages, for one mark (twenty-five cents), the old 
 kutcher will drive away the happy or weary guest, and the diener 
 returns with a bright countenance and full pocket, having received 
 from each guest in the corridor beiow enough "five silver groschens" 
 to take Frederika to many concerts. And so goes life in the "Vater- 
 land." — Reprinted from The Chautauquan, Meadville, Pa., by 
 courtesy of Theodore L. Flood, editor and publisher. 
 
Jit, jtL*u**^X fr*4u*s 
 
1877 
 
 The Vender of Fruits and Vegetables. 
 
(3erman*Hmerican IboueefceepinQ. 
 
 I received a letter from Germany the other day, written by a young 
 American woman who was recently married to a German officer. 
 They live in a city of about the population of Rochester, N. Y., only 
 distinguished from other places of its size in possessing an old 
 cathedral, a water-cure (Bade Anstalt), and being a military post. 
 These distinguishing features have nothing to do, however, with the 
 part of her letter which I desire to reflect upon. She writes : 
 
 "I am so fortunately situated in domestic matters; I have really 
 no care, the madchen is so competent and so willing, it is a real 
 pleasure to keep house." 
 
 Just before the arrival of this letter I had patiently listened for two 
 hours to the just and lamentable complaints of an American house- 
 keeper. 
 
 "Six years ago the Empress of Germany announced that she would 
 henceforth decorate with a golden cross every female servant who 
 had passed forty years of her life in the same family. The Empress 
 has been called upon to bestow this mark of her royal favor 893 
 times. Can any other country make such a remarkable showing ? 
 In America house-maids are apt to reckon their terms of continuous 
 service by weeks and months instead of years. The beginning of 
 reform in this matter is anxiously awaited by millions of worried 
 households." 
 
 One of our distinguished diplomats and scholars, who served in 
 Germany as United States minister, brought back with him a Ger- 
 man diener, or butler. Karl did well for a season ; maintained his 
 respectful bearing toward the herrschaften and their guests until 
 finally he announced he was "discontented," and the reason for his 
 
<3cvmans:2lmcucan IbouecUccptnfl. 
 
 desire to change places was that the herrschaften did not entertain 
 as grandly in this country as they did in Germany, and that the 
 guests were not such fine ladies and gentlemen — they did not give 
 trink-gelt (civility money). But the most heartfelt reason was, he 
 was lonely. He missed music, he missed gemuthlichkeit, and fine 
 and high titles by which to call the ladies and gentlemen. And then 
 the fosttage — Karl also missed. 
 
 On these festtige in Germany a butler or maid has as good a 
 chance to go to a picture gallery, or a pottery, or a museum, or a 
 concert, as gentlefoiks ; and does not the knowledge and pleasure 
 gained at such places make them more cheerful, and intelligent, and 
 competent to look at work not as a drudgery, but as something in 
 which the whole human family is engaged in one way or another ? 
 Said an observing maid to me after an afternoon in a picture gal- 
 gery ; "How can those poor artists sit all day long with their feet 
 on the stone floor and copy pictures ? They look so tired I was 
 glad I was not one of them!" After a visit to the Konigliche 
 Porzellm Manufactur, in Charlottenburg, I remember once having 
 asked "Martha" if she knew how much labor it required to manu- 
 facture a cup and saucer ; and I proceeded to tell her how the 
 feldspar found in the various tanks of water, each time running 
 through a sieve, then now they pass it between heavy weights so 
 that it comes out in great sheets of pliable putty, which are laid over 
 moulds, just as a piece of dough is laid over a pie-pan. When these 
 forms are taken off, they are carefully finished in every indentation 
 by skilful workmen, who have delecate tools for the purpose. After- 
 ward they take these forms, cups, saucers, plates, vegetable dishes. 
 as they may be, and bake them in ovens for sixteen hours the first 
 time, and after they are taken out they are glazed and baked again, 
 and then if the ware is to be painted it must be baked again ; and 
 if gilded, still again. I ended this elaborate description all out of 
 breath, for it required as much command of the German language 
 as I had. The attentive girl, however, relieved my excitement by 
 

<3erman*Hmerican Dousefceeptng. 
 
 saying: "Yes; I have been out there, gnadige frau, and seen it 
 all, and this is why I try to be so careful with china." In the four 
 years this good girl had lived with us she had rarely broken a piece. 
 I could but think how unlike the answer "Biddy" in America would 
 have given, that "the kitchen floor was hard on china." I have 
 known these servant girls as much interested in the collections of 
 laces in the museums, especially the specimens made by poor peas- 
 ant women in different centuries, as any high-born lady, and much 
 more capable or reproducing specimens of this industry. The cos- 
 tumes of the peasants and the costumes of the kings and queens, 
 and the furniture used by the latter, will attract crowds by the hour 
 in European museums. But who ever sees any but the intelligent 
 and rich walking about in the Metropolitan Museum of New York, 
 or the Academy in Boston. We do not care to interest those we 
 employ ; only care to see that they work well and as many hours as 
 possible. "There remains," says a writer on duties of contract, 
 ••outside of their actual service, or of any assumption of authority on 
 our side, really limitless fields for the exercise of our natural influence 
 as their immediate superiors and friends." 
 
 If the foreign emigrants would inform themselves "how this com- 
 plex American machinery actually works" as Mr Bryce expresses 
 it, it would be well for them. But it is only by rumor of higher wages, 
 plenty of ground, liberty of action, that a certain class of foreigners 
 are attracted to our shores. If they could be instructed as to what 
 they are really to expect, that for instance domestics will find a dull 
 gray kitchen, a heavy breakfast to cook, no open market with bench- 
 es where they can loiter and talk with the market women under their 
 red umbrellas, and watch the lads go by. Nothing but a long day 
 and a longer evening in an uninteresting environment, with different 
 food and different duties. 
 
 I recently asked a Swede, a beautiful girl, if she did not find her- 
 self fortunately situated in America ? -Not at all, if I can do no 
 better — my native land is far happier, where father smokes even- 
 ings and mother knits." 
 
<3erman=Bmertcan t>oueelieeptnfl. 
 
 There was no sympathy extended in that household to the domes- 
 tics. 
 
 "The drawbacks to a system of exquisite equipoise" is ignorance and 
 unbelief on the part of those who serve, and a want of interest and 
 sympathy on the part of those who employ. Their traditions are 
 set aside. Like John Chinaman who has to learn that we even turn 
 the screw the opposite way to the way in which he had been drilled. 
 Generally speaking they are disappointed in their duties, saddened and 
 discouraged. Wages are higher, so is the price of food. But with 
 no money to return on they condense their lives into deafening 
 factories, and talk over strikes. If they could be made to believe 
 as Matthew Arnold expresses it, "that those who live in America 
 on incomes below three hundred dollars have a better life than the 
 same people in Europe, for they have the great West before them, 
 they have fruits to eat and clothes to wear and that the_ future of 
 these great United States are of incalcuable value to them as to the 
 native born element — "The country," as Mr. Arnold says "part of 
 whose religion is to glorify the average man." A country, we may 
 add, where healthful competition exists and no narrowing of individ- 
 ual effort as yet appears, how much happier service they might ren- 
 der. — Reprinted from The Chautauquan, Meadville, Pa., by 
 courtesy of Theodore L. Flood, editor and publisher. 
 
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flDen&elssobn's <Sra\>e. 
 
 The accompanying pen and ink sketch representing the graves of 
 Felix Mendelssohn and that of his sister Fanny, because of their ex- 
 treme simplicity, will surprise many as they astonished me when on 
 a Sunday afternoon we wandered out in search of the resting plac e 
 of him whose songs need no words We had both imagined some 
 lofty monument would mark the spot, and in order to find it, it would 
 only be necessary to inquire of some one in the vicinity. Pursuing 
 this plan, to our utter amazement we only received an ignorant stare 
 from plebeian and patrician. Finally, being told by an old gentleman, 
 "if we would go beyond the Canal-strasse in the direction of the 
 Belle-alliance Platz down the Schoneberger Ufer through a narrow 
 street," we would come to a gate opening into a cemetery, which 
 we must pass through, before reaching a smaller cemetery, in which 
 Mendelssohn was buried. After many efforts we roused the old por- 
 ter who kept the key to the latter gate. We walked rapidly in, ex- 
 pecting to see something In monumental art worthy of the name, 
 but the artless old porter pointed to a grave in the corner, and there, 
 overshadowed by some trees, stood the plain slabs with the names 
 of Felix, Fanny and August, Mendelssohn. 
 
 A curious sense of the Congruous came over us while standing 
 by the simple stones and recalling the solemn and appropriate 
 demonstration at the time of Felix Mendelssohn's death, made in 
 every city and town where his genius had been known. Was it 
 true that there in this small, unknown graveyard they had left him ? 
 Was it to yonder small gate the four horses in black accoutrements 
 drew the carriage containing the coffin covered with palm branches, 
 laurel wreaths and flowers ? And did the great choirs and orches- 
 tras of the city pass through with the grand choral, 'Jesus my trust," 
 
/ftenDelssobn'g <3tav>e. 
 
 preceded by all Germany's musicians, the clergy, the officers, pro- 
 fessors, officers of the army, and the immense throng of admirers ? 
 
 Felix Mendelssohn's character wanted no principle of the genuine 
 Christian. Never was feeling more sacred and and profound, ex- 
 pressed in harmonious strain than he expressed in his great oratorio 
 of "St. Paul" and "Elijah," nor can the praise of God be more 
 grandly heard on earth than the double chorus of his XLII. Psalm 
 when well rendered, or again, when with his pious heart he wished 
 to show the triumph at the creation of light over darkness, which 
 ends with a beautiful duet, "Therefore I sing thy everlasting praise, 
 thou faithful God. 
 
 We are told that Mendelssohn spent his last days laboring over 
 a new oratorio — "Christ." It was commenced during his stay in 
 Italy, and while rambling among the mountains of Switzerland he is 
 said to dave been inspired with the theme for his work, which he 
 hoped to make his best. Never was wealth used more wisely and 
 religiously than his. Not only did he clothe the naked and feed the 
 hungry, but every one who came near him with aspirations for an 
 ennobling life he advanced. He undertook a tremendous amount of 
 labor in giving concerts in Leipzig, the proceeds of which were de- 
 voted to the statue of Bach. At first he undertook to erect such a 
 monument out of his own means, "saying that it was only right that 
 John Sebastian Bach, who had labored so usefully and with such 
 distinguished honor as cantor at the Thomas school at Leipzig, 
 should have a monument in the streets of the city in which he had 
 lived, as an immortal spirit of harmony." At these concerts he 
 allowed only Bach's music to be produced, intending in this way, he 
 said, to make the rising generations of musicians more familiar with 
 the works of one to whom he felt under the greatest weight of obli- 
 gation, and whom he is said to have resembled in the severity of 
 his studies as well as the loftiness of his aims. But this is the ex- 
 pression of Mendelssohn's best friends : adverse criticism has much 
 to say, and while his motives were pure and his compositions genu- 
 
/foen&etesobn'e Grave. 
 
 ine and vivacious, yet in sublime combinations and serious themes 
 Bach and Beethoven can alone be compared. 
 
 Every winter in Berlin the oratorios of "Elijah" and "St. Paul" 
 are given in the Sing-Academie. This old music hall is a place of 
 memorial scenes, the directorship of which Mendelssohn once ap- 
 plied for, at the earnest solicitation of his friends, and was refused. 
 The enthusiastic audiences which now assembles there to hear his 
 music seem to be as forgetful of this as they are ignorant of the 
 little secluded grave-yard in the outskirts of the city where his im- 
 mense throng of friends and admirers left him twenty years ago. 
 
 In beautiful imitation of his noble efforts for Bach's monument 
 an appropriation of the money secured by the rendering of his great 
 oratorios should be used to his own memory, an idea which occurs 
 to the mind of strangers in Berlin, but unfortunately net to the 
 citizens. 
 
 Only two years ago the Berliners raised a monument to Goethe, 
 and Alexander and Wilhelm von Humboldt have just been recog- 
 nized in this way. "Tegel," the grand old home of Alexander, is 
 seldom seen by visitors, that is to say, it is not frequented by the 
 traveler as Potsdam and Charlottenburg. An interesting place, and 
 an interesting master it had, "who had trod many lands, known many 
 deeds, probed many hearts, beginning with his own, and was far in 
 readiness for God." His grave is just beyond the house, at the 
 end of an avenue. His home has been inherited by a niece, and is 
 kept up in all the elegance of former years, The grounds are very 
 handsome, so densely covered in places with magnificent old trees 
 along avenues stretching beyond the house and grave. These forest 
 trees are very rare in this low sandy region. After driving for miles 
 through barren land wtth only occasional forests of stiff pines, to 
 come suddenly upon trees which somewhat resemble our American 
 oak, bestows a happy home-like feeling to the American who has 
 wandered from primeval forests. 
 
 The house at "Tegel" is built in the most rigid style, relieved on 
 
Aendel06Obn'0 ©rave. 
 
 the outside by niches filled with good pieces of statuary. Within 
 every room is painfully neat — the formality with which the furniture 
 is placed shows evidence that the owner had no children. It is an 
 attempt at an Italian Villa, but seems too cold and formal for such a 
 climate as Berlin. There is certainly taste displayed and cultivation 
 evinced in the selection of many things. The library is filled with 
 books, principally works of Humboldt and Voltaire. On the tables 
 are large portfolios containing maps and cartoons. The desk with 
 the pen and inkstand remain just as he left them. Indeed, there is 
 only a suggestion here and there, that the niece is living and owning 
 the place — so still and so orderly are the rooms, and so undisturbed 
 hang the red apples by the house — and the house seems as 
 silent as the stately avenue of oaks that leads to the grave. Hum- 
 boldt left a handsome fortune to this niece, for he lived and died a 
 bachelor. 
 
 He owned many valuable pieces of statuary, The original of 
 Thorwaldsen's Venus was purchased by Humboldt with much price, 
 it is said, and placed in his collection with other rare pieces found at 
 various places in his travels. Among other curious possessions a 
 mutilated old fountain from Pompeii stands in the hall, The floors 
 are tiles, as one generally finds in Germany, and the salle which 
 contains the finest statuary suggests Goethe's line's in "Mignon." 
 "Und Marmor Bilder steben and dehen mich an." 
 
 What is there in the make up of literary men which prompts them 
 so often to isolate themselves in some far off country place ? 
 The explanation which is generally given is, that their time being so 
 precious they can not be interrupted ; their ideas will not grow and 
 flourish in the midst of the talkative world. Emerson tells of the 
 literary man who declared "the solitary river was not solitary enough ; 
 the sun and moon put him out, When he bought a house the 
 first thing he did was to plant trees. He could not enough conceal 
 himself." 'Tis worse, and tragic, Emerson goes on to remark, that 
 no man is fit for society who has fine traits. "At a distance he is 
 
/focnfcelssobn's ©cave. 
 
 admired, but bring him hand to hand, he is a cripple." "But people 
 are to be taken in small doses." "Solitude is impracticable and so- 
 ciety fatal." If more authors and literary people would live as Goethe, 
 as Macaulay, as Madame de Stael, as the recent German novelist, 
 Berthold Auerbach, in the midst of their friends or foes as they may 
 chance to be, hearing the arguments for and against them, would 
 it not be better. Goethe wanted to hear all that could be said of 
 him, that he might the more cleverly understand what he was, what 
 he was writing for, and where his lessons were to be honored. 
 
 Berthold Auerbach was in hearty sympathy with all about him, 
 seeing his friends once a week through special invitation, as well as 
 whenever they called, and observing his birthdays with a childlike 
 interest. One day, we found him at home seated by a 
 table which was covered with flowers, fruits, and presents of various 
 kinds. We at once knew that it was his birthday, and expressed a 
 regret that we had not come in with an offering. "Oh, that does 
 not matter, so you bring yourselves ; the presents are only from 
 those who did not come ; they can not take the place of the absent 
 ones, but they signify love ! and love is what we live for !" Franz 
 Liszt is another German who, although so old. and one would think 
 exhausted from the voice of praise and adoration, retains an intense 
 longing for his friends and society, and they for him. When he 
 reaches Weimar in the summer, after his winter in Pesth, everyone 
 knows or feels his presence. The Berliners even rejoice that he 
 is the nearer to them. We are glad that Longfellow and Buchanan 
 Read and Healy, and a host of Americans have felt his magic 
 friendship, and watched "his Saturn fingers so full of knots." His 
 Sixth Rhapsodie is sufficiently great to have given him a world-wide 
 reputation. Wagner, Liszt, Auerbach, Knaus and many other 
 artists, musicians and writers of Germany, show that it is possible to 
 live for one's friends, while living also for fame. But, alas ! in 
 America, reputation and success are coupled with such secluded 
 habits and such insatiable work that the personal influence of our 
 
/ISendeleeobn'd ©rave. 
 
 literary and scientific men is lost in a large measure. The wife of 
 one of our distinguished poets, in speaking of the state of society in 
 New York City, said there had not been h^d for years what one 
 could call a literary coterie ; that Bryant during his lifetime could 
 have held a salon but for the fact that personally he was too cold and 
 indifferent to devote his liesure hours to the light and easy-going 
 talk of the hour. She went on to say that had one lamented one 
 lived, he with his warm and generou6 nature, his wide and untiring 
 interest in others, he could have been the center, the heart and soul 
 of such a circle. — Reprinted from The Chautauqua n t Meadville, 
 Pa., by courtesy of Theodore L. Flood, editor and publisher. 
 
£be flDotber of an Emperor- 
 
 5econJ> EMtion. Clotb. 50 pages, price, postpaid $1.00. 
 
 It is a source uf gratification to all lovers of a better literature to 
 note that, in a brief time, the charming biographical sketch first 
 printed in our columns, and afterward attractively published in 
 booklet form by Jennings & Pye, "The Mother of an Emperor" 
 (Queen Louise of Prussia), by Mrs. Mary McArthurTuttle, has come 
 to its second edition. There are entertaining supplementary arti- 
 cles in the book, reprinted from the Chautauquan. Their titles, 
 •'From the Baltic to the Adriatic," Home Life in Germany," "Ger- 
 man-American Housekeeping," and Mendelssohn's Grave," will in- 
 dicate the variety and interest of the writing. The book is well 
 supplied with half tones and with unique pen and pencil drawings, 
 by Mrs. Tuttle, who adds the skill of artist to that of litterateur.— 
 The Western Christian Advocate, Nov. 6, 1901. 
 
 " Here is the result of painstaking labor, united with skill, in tell- 
 ing a charming story in a charming style. Its vividness is also in- 
 creased by sketches from the author's deft pencil. Her success in 
 bringing the distant and the past into the living present is worthy 
 of more general imitation in this day when so much energy is ex- 
 pended by ambitious authorship in telling dreams. The faces and 
 facts of the past can be brought to a beautiful resurrection when 
 touched by the breath of genius." — Hillsboro Gazette, 1901. 
 
 "Mrs. Tuttle has made a readable and graceful story of the life of 
 the Queen from the most favorable standpoint. The original draw- 
 ings are numerous and each one a gem. Mrs. Tuttle has few equals 
 in such work. As writer on Art and Color she is well known. She 
 explains in her preface why this book was prepared, and it is a 
 credit not only to her own taste but to the neat manner of publish- 
 ing. Her husband, the late Professor Tuttle, wrote the History 
 of Prussia, and was a man of deep research and unbiased judgment. 
 — The Dispatch, 1901. 
 
 "Mrs. Tuttle is the widow of Herbert Tuttle, A. M., L. H. D.. late 
 professor at Cornell University, and author of the History of Prus- 
 sia, (Houghton, Mifflin & Co.) The National Cyclopedia of Amer- 
 ican Biography gives a lengthy notice of both Professor and Mrs. 
 Tattle's work as artist and writer."— Australian Federation, 1901. 
 
cthiv nv CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, 
 
 lOrn-4,'23 
 
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