THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES r M U LLYON: ITS HISTORY, SCENERY AND ANTIQUITIES; NARRATIVES OF SHIPWRECKS ON ITS COAST; ITS AGRICULTURE, FISHERIES, AND MINING ; TALES OF THE DAYS OF WRECKING AND SMUGGLING ; LONGEVITY OF ITS INHABITANTS; NAMES OF PLACES, THEIR TRUE CORNISH RENDERINGS AND SIGNIFICATIONS, &C., &C., &C. Predannack Cross, page 18. " Remember that whilst we are searching for the history of by -gone days the scenes before our eyes vanish and are forgotten. Stereotype then, as it were, the present, and afterwards trace back to the earliest times." Carnival! Register. BY E. G. HARVEY, B.A., VICAR. T R U RO : W. LAKE, PRINCES STREET. LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & Co., STATIONERS' HALL COURT. I875- DA TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD ROBARTES, WHOSE READY SYMPATHY AND GENEROUS AID HAVE EVER BEEN EXTENDED TO ALL GOOD WORKS IN THE PARISH OF MULLYON, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE, WITH PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR. 766969 TABLE OF CONTENTS, PAGE. INTRODUCTION i RAMBLE, No. i 5 CHARACTERS, RELIGION, &c 10 ANCIENT REMAINS 16 RAMBLE, No. 2 19 MULLYON CHURCH 22 RAMBLE, No. 3 31 THE PILCHARD FISHERY 33 THE CRAB FISHERY 38 THE SOAP ROCK 40 WRECKING AND SMUGGLING 44 WRECKS ON THE COAST 53 PRECAUTIONS AGAINST WRECKS 66 NARRATIVES OF WRECKS 68 LAUNCH OF THE LIFEBOAT 74 NARRATIVES OF WRECKS CONTINUED 76 THE OLD CORNISH LANGUAGE 95 NAMES OF FARMS, &c., AND THEIR SIGNIFICATION 101 LONGEVITY OF INHABITANTS ...in LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CAVE AT PORTHPYG facing Title page. PREDANNACK CROSS Title page. MAP facing page i. INTERIOR OF MULLYON CHURCH 22. WRECK OF THE JONKHEER 70. REMAINS OF ANCIENT CHAPEL 112. ERRATA ET CORRIGENDA. Page 3. Eleventh line from bottom, for "is" read "are." 39. Second line from bottom, "the curving valley" (quasi 'guris.') This etymology is doubtful, see page 109. 62. Second line, for " Mansbury's " read " ManbyV' 96. Eighth line from bottom, for " daw " read " dau, dou." 97. Seventh line from bottom, for " dew gain " read " deugain." 97. Second line from bottom, for " 19 by 15 + 4" read " 18 by 15 + 3 ;" and strike out " 18 " at end of the line. 98. Fifteenth line from bottom, for " cyfodd" read "cyfododd." 98. Sixth line from bottom, for " San " read " Lan." Boundary Lines meet in< tiie centre of M U L L Y O N . HE Parish of Mullyon, lying in Meneag, in the Archdeaconry of Cornwall, and in the Deanery and Hundred of Kirrier, is bounded on the North by Cury and Gunwalloe, on the East by Ruan Major and Grade, on the South by Landewednack, and on the West by the Sea. It covers 4,786 acres of land, of which 1,700 are arable, 1,200 pasture, and the rest commons, crofts, and public roads. The gross estimated rental is ,3,475, the rateable value .3,086 ; and the population, by the the census of 1871, numbered 695. The tithes are commuted at .535, of which ^225 are vicarial, and ^310 impropriated. The patronage of the living is in the Bishop of Exeter. In the valuation of Pope Nicholas, which was made during the reign of Edward the First, in the years 1288 to 1291, appears the following: TAXACIO DE ECCUAR' ARCHI D' CORNUB' Decanatus de Kere (Kirrier). Taxacio. Decim. Ecclia Sci Mellani ,800 84 In the Valor Ecclesiasticus, temp. Henry VIII., it is entered as Melyan, and in legal documents, temp. Elizabeth, as Mullyan. S. Mellion, in the East of Cornwall, is also spoken of as S. Mellanus. 2 Mullyon. The name is variously given in our parish register as St. Mullyon, Mullyon, S. Mullian, Mullian, Mullyan, Mulion, St. Mullion, and Mullion. In the registry, at Exeter, it is now given as Mullyon ; hence I, as " Vicar of Mullyon," have adopted this form. S. Mellonus is called S. Malo by Usher ; and Dr. Oliver decides that Mellonus, Malo and Meen are identical, and seeing that we have S. Male's Moor in the parish to this day, I would rather suppose that S. Malo, a Briton by birth, gave the name to this parish, than go out of my way to seek, as some have done, in the Persian language, for a word resembling ' Mullyon,' and meaning ' smooth,' particularly as there is nothing smooth about us either by sea or on land than trace it to the plant ' Mullen,' which really grows in much greater abundance in the surrounding parishes than with us, or, than place myself under the patronage of St. Melanie or Melina, an obscure saint in the Roman calendar, who lived principally in Rome, Carthage, and Jerusalem, and who never, as far as is known, attempted a visit to these shores. But more of this by-and-bye, when I come to speak of the church and its dedication. Excepting what is ecclesiastical, the history of Mullyon is somewhat scanty. There is evidence of the Manor of Predannack being held by the family of Serjeaux.* Richard, of that ilk, M.P. for the county of Cornwall, in the time of Richard the Second, possessed it, and he dying without issue, it fell to his sisters as co-heiresses. The youngest of the three carried it in marriage to Vere, Earl of Oxford. Sir Richard Robartes was seized of the manor of Predannack Wartha, and Predannack Wollas, in the i yth James the First, 1619. Part of the latter now belongs to Sir R. R. Vyvyan, Bart., but the rest of the manor is the property of Lord Robartes. From the Calendars of Pro- ceedings in Chancery, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth we abstract the fol- lowing : " John Hodge, alias Richards, plaintiff, Robert Richards and Stephen John, defendants, concerning a tenement called Trenant (Trenance), in the parish of Mullyan, the inheritance of Richard Boscawen, and by him devised to Richard Hodge alias Richards, plaintiff's father." Vol. n, p. 45. H.h. 16. * See appendix A. Mullyon. 3 Trenance is now in the possession of Lord Robartes. Again, " Michael Tresagher, alias Tresaugher, generosus, and Anna, his wife, sold lands in Vounder, Trewoone, and the Church Town of Mullyon, all in this parish, to William Peres, alias Pryske." 25 Eliz., 1582. Vounder now belongs to Viscount Falmouth. Indeed, Lord Robartes and Viscount Falmouth are the principal land owners of the parish, smaller portions belonging respectively to Sir R. R. Vyvyan, C. H. Hawkins, Esq., Messrs. J. B. Kempthorne, and Peter Williams. As regards the soil the greater part of the parish rests on a bed of serpentine, and strangers are wont to form large ideas of the vastness of our riches when we tell them that we not only build our houses, but even pave our roads with serpentine, but northward of a line drawn from the centre of Polurrian Cove to Clahar Garden, the slate formation presents itself, which may be traced northward along the coast till it meets the granite spur of Tregoning Hill, at Trewavas Cliffs. There are two patches of hornblende, also, one extending from Polurrian Cove, near which are traces of ochre and iron-stone, to Porthmellin and the stream that runs into it, being separated from the slate at the former place by a well marked vein of conglomerate, and extending inland to the neighbourhood of Church Town. Another mass of hornblende will be found between Predannack and the sea. Then there is the Soap Rock (so called from its being unctuous to the touch) in the valley of Gue Greze traversing the serpentine in large veins. Particulars of the raising of this peculiar formation is given below. " Native," or pure malleable copper has from time to time been found in large lumps or veins in the interstices of the serpentinic rock, mostly in the valley just north of Predannack Wartha where mining was once carried on at a great cost. One mass of native copper was sent from this to the Exhibition of 1851, weighing 15 cwt "The metal bore the appearance of having been poured in a melted state into the crevices of the rocks, it was for the most part flattened, and branched at the edges ; it had the lustre of a new copper coin, and had here and there adhering" to its side portions of steatite of a beautiful grass green." The cost of boring the solid serpentine was not however defrayed by the occasional " find" of a beautiful 4 Mtttlyon. branched and glistening tree of bright and lustrous copper, and the mining operations were necessarily given up. The principal crops raised in Mullyon are wheat, barley, oats, turnips and mangolds. These last do so remarkably well that it is almost a wonder that some speculative genius is not tempted to grow beet for the sugar manufac- ture. As in West Cornwall generally all kinds of vegetables are early, while the harvests are late and " catchy." The lobster and crab fisheries in the spring, and the pilchard seine fishery in the autumn, give employment to a large number of the inhabitants. RAMBLES THROUGH THE PARISH. RAMBLE NO. I. ULLYON, within its comparatively small area, presents almost every variety of scenery that may be found within these latitudes. From the bare uncultivated heath whose silence is only broken by the distant murmur of the sea, you may descend by short and easy steps to the deep and thickly wooded dell, whose sombre recesses are enlivened by the perpetual babbling of its noisy brook. From the placid quiet of the homestead and well cultivated farm you may pass at once out upon the imposing grandeur of the high beetling cliff, whose weather beaten tops and cragged sides tell tales of anything but peaceful elements ; and a meditative ramble along the productive cwms may be varied within a very short distance by an equally interesting stroll on one of the many sandy beaches of our brine-washed coves. Are you for a tramp, good reader, across the breezy guns " Oh, who will o'er the downs with me." Then come along, let us start from the Vicarage ; but first let me put a biscuit or two in my pocket, my little flask of schnaps, and my pocket compass. " Why the last ?" do you say. Well, it may not be necessary, but I've lost myself before now in a sudden fog on the downs when I should have been glad to have had it with me. But come along, down through the meadows to the southward along the now nearly obliterated church path,* across the * This unfortunately is not the only church path in the parish that is being gradually lost sight of. The direct path across the valley to Cury by Newton and Gwills is fast disappearing. The church path to La Floudre and that through Park Venton, and Gweal an Drea, in Tremenhehe, though one of the best and most frequented in the parish, is not marked in the parish map. The present generation do not think the appoint- 6 Mullyon. stream, and up through Garrow farm the rough (arrow) bit of land is it not rightly named ? and so out upon the down. Flat is it not, this high table land ? Not much depth of soil ? No ; they have a suicidal plan here of scarifying the surface to that extent that there is not much chance of any soil collecting ; the moment any does make its appearance it is carefully shaved off with a shovel to burn on their open hearths. The true Cornish heath, erica vagans, is not so plentiful here as in some other parts of the downs ; but the pretty waxen little tetralix is common enough. That large pool away to the left is Hal Kymbro the Britons but why so called I can't say. It is not often you get a winter here sufficiently severe for the ice to bear; yet, in February, 1870, I had the pleasure of a good run on the pattens to the wonder and amaze of the villagers who had never seen a pair of skates before. That church tower right a-head, with only three pinnacles, is S. Ruan Major; its fourth pinnacle was injured during a thunder storm, on the 7th Sunday after Trinity, 26th July, 1868. Mullyon church was struck by lightning during the same storm and part of the parapet of its tower sent whizzing down through the roof. The electric fluid also entered at the west end, and running up the northern row of arches, made its exit at the east window, knocking off a portion of one of the pillars, and covering the chancel with bits of stone and plaster. This happily occurred between the services, when the church was empty. But S. Ruan's pinnacle was rendered so unsafe that the parishioners, to avoid accidents, thrust its remains bodily over a much simpler course, you will say, than restoring the pinnacle. They seem to be of your opinion. But here we are at Hervan Gutter. Here it was that the ghost of Thomas Flavel, former vicar of Mullyon and rector of Ruan, himself a famous exorcist, was laid by a brother cleric, of whom Flavel had said, " When he comes I must go." And here, at the entrance to the lane, on the right, are the remains of a tumulus which was opened under the direction of W. C Borlase, Esq., on nth November, 1871. We were present at the opening, and have preserved parts of an earthen urn, men! of Churchwardens whose duty it is among other things to look after the church paths -necessary. Whether the children will by-and-bye be of the same opinion, or will thank their forefathers for neglecting their interests, is dubious. The roadway from La Floudre to Trenance Vean, which once formed part of the old road to the Lizard, has only lately been blocked. A Ramble. 7 of very rough manufacture, which contained relics of calcined bones and charcoal. But let us away again over the downs to Jolly Town a jovial place indeed ! Can you imagine anything more dreary or desolate ? Look every way, can you see even a shrub ? Here is an attempt at grass to be sure, but whatever could have induced the first settler to fix on such a spot ? There is positively no road by which to approach the cot, and in winter the down all round you is ankle deep in mud and water. It is a nice airy situation indeed, and if you are fond of solitude this is the spot for you, just the place of which you might predicate that it was about " five miles from anywhere." We might now run down that valley to Gue Greze, and the Soap rock, but we will leave that for another day, and pass on to Predannack Head. What a glorious prospect ! The rocky Vellan headland to your left, and in front of you the whole stretch of Mount's Bay Tol Pedn, or Old Land's End, reaching far out into the horizon, S.' Buryan church tower (Castle Treryn and Lamorna Cove are easily distinguishable with a glass), Chapel Carn Bre (640 feet), not looking as if it really were 20 miles off, Newlyn, Penzance, in the extreme hollow of the bay, the sands of Eastern Green backed by Castle- an-Dinas (735 feet), the Mount the Mount, of course, for there is no other Mount to a Cornishman the rugged rocks of Cuddan, the granite cliffs at Trewavas, Tregoning Hill (596 feet), the three mile stretch of sandy beach from Porthleven to Pedngwinnion, and then that glorious reach of alter- nate lofty cliff and sandy cove terminating with the Gull Rock, and with Mullyon Island almost at your feet. There are few, if any, pictures, even in the romantic district of Meneag to equal this. When your eye has satisfied itself we'll saunter on along the edge of the cliff to Mullyon Cove or Porthmellin. But think, as you gaze upon this now placid scene, what miserable shipwrecks have occurred, what numerous lives have been lost on this, by nature, inhospitable coast, before and beneath you. And again, what contraband cargoes have been run, and, for all we know, what desperate encounters have taken place on these solemn, silent, awe-inspiring rocks. That perpendicular bluff at Men-y-Grib, about two miles off, witnessed, in the dead of night, the instantaneous perishing of four and twenty precious souls. 8 Mullyon. Nearer, that old grey mass that lifts its lofty head in pinnacles between Polurrian and Henscath, saw fifteen more swept to destruction, not leaving one to tell the tale how or why they came there. Here below is Canavas, and the Chair, the Rinyard and Vro sand, where, before now, hundreds, perhaps thousands, of kegs, that never saw the customs, have been landed. But proceed. Mullyon Island Enys Pruen, as it was formerly called, has oft been likened to a huge beast reclining in the sea. For myself, it requires a stretch of imagination to discover the similarity ; but, if there be at all a likeness, it is to be seen from hence. And here is the Gull rock, with its sheer seaward face, Do you note how the gulls and the puffins and the cor- morants hold each their appropriated portions of the rock ? Well ! that matter was only definitely settled about five years ago, and then only after a dreadful war of twelve hours' duration, the din of which reached even to Church Town. How long the present pacific arrangements shall last quien sabe! Now, over this bit of down and then descend into the Cove. Here is the house which contains our lifeboat a noble boat she is, and the largest on our Cornish coast ; but I will tell you more about her by and bye. Here lie our seine boats, and there, the crabbers' ; but come down to this narrow cleft in the hill, and through the natural tunnel out on the sands of Forth Pyg. " Mullyon Cove," says the late Dean Alford in the November number, 1868, of Good Words (which also contains several pretty little sketches by the lamented Dean), " Mullyon Cove is vast in extent and unites in itself, in its various parts, almost all the characteristics of Cornish coast scenery. It is rather an assemblage of subjects than a subject in itself. . . By threading a curious chink in a rock to the South you open upon a lovely beach of yellow sand, with any amount of variously grouped rocks for a foreground, and, if you please, a noble cave to arch your picture." But that is not the cave we shall visit presently. It is just now three-quarter ebb spring tide, and we could not have a better opportunity for penetrating this much neglected ogo. Comparisons are often made between Mullyon Cove and Kynance- " comparisons are odious " but they are not to be compared, they are in their formation and character so very different. I should say that where Kynance is pretty, Mullyon Cove is grand ; but we will be content to admire Mullyon. 9 both, each in its several characteristics, and without prejudice or jealousy, for we can but remember that all the beauties of Kynance also lie in the parish of Mullyon. Do you know Italy? Have you seen the slopes of Vesuvius? Does this black brown mass of serpentinic formation at all remind you of a layer of lava ? A Cornishman would say it was not unlike " slag " from the smelting house cooled down, and cracked in all directions in the cooling. But here is the entrance to the cave, and here is the old fisher- man, Sam Kitchens, with his bundle of furze and tar-dipped torch to lighten up its innermost recesses. As you go in, notice that bit of timber high above your head, and jammed so tightly between the rocks. That is a portion of the barque Chinchas that became a total wreck on the Loe Bar, in 1859. It was washed over here, and has been firmly held there ever since. This cave, or ogo, says Mr. Johns, " is a striking object when seen externally, yet the view from within is yet more so impenetrable gloom above brilliant light streaming in through the fissures, but revealing nothing behind the smoothest of all possible sands little pools of water, so still that not even a sunbeam is seen to dance on them richly dark walls, so polished as to reflect the light with a splendour scarcely to be endured the blue sea, with its curled edging of snow-white lace St. Michael's Mount, the fabled ' tower in the sea,' in the distance." But Sam is lighting up ; let us go in. Eh ! what does he look like behind the smoke, and the flames flickering and dancing about him and on the polished sides of this huge cleft ? This must be seen to be appreciated. No description could convey its weirdness to the imagination. Stay now, and admire it as you please, but take care that you are not caught by the returning tide. CHARACTER, RELIGION, &c. E have not many records, of the character of the earlier inhabitants of Mullyon, yet of the date, particularly in Cornwall, when " Saints were many and sins were few," we may, in some measure, judge by the relics that have come down to us. They, the men of those times, were probably of that independent spirit and uncertain temperament so often now observable in Cornishmen hospitable and affable, volatile and capricious, unstable, yet sympathetic ; sometimes, nevertheless, possessing the curt, treacherous qualities of your true Celt. As to the character of the present inhabitants, it will hardly become me to say anything here further than what would be on all hands allowed, that one would not expect to find among the dwellers in a parish which is wholly agri- cultural, the mental capacity or quickness of intellect observable in the occu- piers of a mining district, while a greater amount of cautious, yet timid reticence, may easily be detected. I cannot, however, refrain from saying, that during a residence of ten years among a people, who, from whatever cause, simply hate the Church, and who look upon the Parson as a sort of Ecclesiastical Policeman, I have personally met with respectful civility and attention, particularly from the labourers and fishermen ; the exceptions have been where simple ignorance of their own ignorance, or the virulence of an unreasoning prejudice has led others astray to unbecoming words and actions. Of the religious persuasions I may be permitted to state, as facts, that the majority of the present parishioners affect that form which is known as " The United Methodist Free ;" and there are also a large number of " Wesleyan Character of Inhabitants. 1 1 Methodists," each of these bodies having commodious preaching houses of their own. The number of Churchmen is few. No fault of theirs, indeed ; and I would hope none of mine. But this is not remarkable when, within the memory of those living in the parish now, there was but one Curate, and not one resident Incumbent, in charge of three parishes. Then there are also a few " good home Christians," as they call themselves, who never go to any place of worship. Baptisms are administered indiscriminately in the church, at the preaching houses, and in private. Marriages are performed in the parish church, and before the Registrar, in Helston ; and there is but one burial-ground the Church-yard for all. But to return to the former subject the character and general bearing of the inhabitants. I will quote the works of two celebrated men, one of whom wrote in the year 1817, the other in 1872 ; and when I mention the fact that both are ministers of the Anabaptist persuasion, a religious denomination that is not represented in Mullyon, though, therefore, as might be supposed, view- ing matters through the same medium, it will be admitted that their judgment will be unbiassed, and their conclusions independent and possibly without prejudice. My first authority is the Rev. G. C. Smith, of Penzance, formerly an officer in the Royal Navy (British Boatswain), and I quote from a work of his, published in 1817, entitled, "The Wreckers, or a Tour of Benevolence from S. Michael's Mount to the Lizard Point." He speaks particularly of the village of Predannack. " Our friends, in H , have lately begun preaching here, but they " want help ; this is a most excellent station for an itinerant ; it lies in the " parish of Mullyon, about four miles from the Lizard. There is no preach- " ing whatever in this village, and there are some who cannot walk far out " of it. The neighbourhood is sadly infested with the wreckers. When " the news of a wreck flies round the coast, thousands of people are " instantly collected near the fatal spot ; pick-axes, hatchets, crow-bars, and " ropes, are their usual implements for breaking up and and carrying off what- " ever they can. The moment the vessel touches the shore she is considered " fair plunder, and men, women, and children are working on her to break 1 2 Mullyon. " her up, night and day. The precipices they descend, the rocks they climb, " and the billows they buffet, to seize the floating fragments, are the most " frightful and alarming I ever beheld ; the hardships they endure (especially " the women) in winter to save all they can, are almost incredible. Should a " vessel, laden with wine or spirits, approach the shore, she brings certain " death and ruin, to many, with her. The rage and fighting to stave in " the casks and bear away the spoil, in kettles and all manner of vessels, is " brutal and shocking. To drunkenness and fighting, succeed fatigue, sleep, " cold, wet, suffocation, death, and what ? an eternity ! Last winter we had " some dreadful scenes of this description. A few in this neighbourhood, it " seems, having a little more light than others, scrupled to visit a wreck that " came on shore last winter, on a Lord's day, lest it should be breaking the " Sabbath ; but they gathered all their implements into a public house, and " waited until the clock struck twelve at midnight, therefore, they rushed " forth, all checks of conscience being removed. Imagine to yourself, 500 ' little children in a parish, brought up every winter in this way, and en- " couraged, both by precept and example, to pursue this horrid system." Now, I imagine that some of the above should be taken cum grano sails ; as, for instance, 500 is a large number of children to allot to a parish whose total population is not known to have exceeded 800 ; but then it should also be remembered that he wrote from what he saw. My next authority had not that advantage. The Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, in his periodical, The Sword and Trowel, of April ist (ominous date!), 1872, writes sheltering himself, how- ever, with the preface, " a correspondent says," " If I were asked to select the Cornish parish which contains, in relation to its population, the largest number of intelligent people, I should at once turn to Mullion." So that in a generation the depraved wretches of the Rev. Smith have become the highly intelligent of the Rev. Spurgeon. This would argue some force of character truly, and if the latter eminent divine really means what he says, and is not poking fun at us in his wonted comical fashion ; or, even if his words were strictly true, Mullyon folk would, indeed, be an exceptional race. The commonly accepted theory is that the bucolic mind does not, as a rule, possess such quick perceptive powers as that of the working miner or the artizan. . " Cognomina." 13 But, in sober sense, I suppose there is about as much real truth in the words of one of these historians as there is in those of the other ; and for my own part I cannot help saying that while wrecking has ceased among us, and drunkenness is rare, our people are not free from the two chief faults for which Cornish folk have made themselves conspicuous in Parliamentary re- turns and courts of law ; and at the same time marks of an intelligence so superior to the rest of their fellow county men are so faint, that I for one have failed, during a residence of ten years, to observe them. A number of families seemed to have remained pretty much in the same spot for generations, and Surnames which occur in the parish registers as far back as they go, viz., 1598, may be traced down to the present time, such as Carter, Curtys, Harrey, Kempthorne, Tonken, Triggs, and many others, while Mullyon Folk have always been noted for their love of Classical and Scriptural words as Christian names. Abraham, Aserath, Demetrius, Dionysius, Erasmus, Hannibal, Hercules (which having been modified into Herklous, now crops up as Archelaus), Isa, Jeremiah, Joel, Renatus, Selina, Theophilus, Thyrza, &c., are still in use. George, Thomas, and Williams, are so plentiful at present as surnames, that some sobriquet is often added to distinguish the individual. This is the more necessary when the Christian, as well as the surname, is the same. There are now no less than six or seven Thomas, Thomases living in the parish. This leads me to mention some curious cognomens I find in the registers. In the Register of Burials, in the year 1762, appear the following entries : John James, alias Gilley, March 5. John James, alias Cazoose, July 9. John James, alias Casouse the younger, September 3. Now, doubtless, all these three aliases are local ; they are taken from the place of abode of each individual. There are several of this nature in our Registers, thus : Grace, daughter of Peter Mundy (alias Foss), September 8th, 1765. Edward, son of Edward and Mary James (alias Tangey), November 4, 1804. Grace Harris (alias Ellis), April 3, 1805. Foss meaning the ditch ; Tangey being a place so named near Carminow, Tangey meaning under the hedge ; and Ellis hal-las the green moor. So John James, alias Gilley, is John James, of the grove, celli ; and Casous points 14 Mullyon. to the district lying in S. Keverne parish, between Crousa Downs and the Black Head, the inhabitants of which locality are to this day known as the Casousers, and hence these Jameses are known to have come. Such a custom was common enough in Tonkin's time, while also " nick- names " were no less frequent than they are now. Here is a list of the present nicknames of the inhabitants of the several parishes in Meneag, Meneag itself being the name locally applied and not by reason of any ecclesiastical or civil arrangement to the whole of the promontory which is bounded on the north by Helford Creek and. the Loe. LANDEWEDNACK, OR LIZARD . . . . ONIONS. GRADE GEESE. S. RUAN DUCKS. S. KEVERNE ROMANS. S. ANTHONY .. PIGS. MANACCAN SWEETS. S. MAWGAN .. OWLS. S. MARTYN KITES. CURY .. .. CROWS. GUNWALLOE JACKDAWS. MULLYON GULLS. These give rise to many a harmless joke or repartee, which often act as lubrication to conversational machinery. Thus, a Lizard man, thinking to "roast" a Mullyon neighbour, remarked to the company, "Wisht people they are over to Mullyon, I was over there the other day and they was looking wisht, sure 'nuff, the gulls was quite wearisome and sad they was looking they'd fairly got tears in their eyes they had." "Iss ! an no wonder, I should think,'' retorted the Mullyon man, " when they'd got a Lizard onion before their eyes." A " foreigner," by which is meant an " up-the-country man," had better be careful how he meddles with these sobriquets. It would hardly be safe for such an one to ask a S. Ives man what they commonly did with hakes, for instance, in that picturesque little town. But now as to the meaning of this word Casous. " The Lizard " I believe simply to signify ;< The Lazar's abode," as well here as Lezardrieux (Lizard- on-the-Trieux), on the opposite coast of Brittany, at Wymondham in Norfolk, and at Lizarea Wartha, and Wollas, in Gvvendron parish. " Casouthers." "Now when that dreadful disease, the leprosy, was introduced into Europe, towards the end of the 1 2th century, by the returning - Crusaders, those who were affected by it were subject to certain regulations. They were obliged to live in communities apart from the people, the only trade they were permitted to follow was that of rope-making, and they were known by the name of " Lazars," in allusion to Lazarus, the beggar, full of sores, of the parable. The horror inspired by the leper has, in Brittany, survived the leprosy, and has attached itself to that of rope-making, which was peculiar to lepers. Rope makers are to this day looked upon with contempt and called " kakous," or " cagous,"* that is, persons dwelling apart." Now, the Welsh word for those set apart as hateful to be avoided, is "casaus." Borlase, in his Cornish vocabulary, gives "casaus" as "odious," but says the word is Armoric. " Casadow " is used in the old Cornish Drama with a similar signification. And here we have a certain community living in Lizard district spoken of with contempt to this very day (whether rightly or wrongly, with justice or from mere tradition, is another matter), as " casousers." I think the inference as to the origin and meaning of the word is plain. Certain it is that from whatever cause, whether it be owing to the perpetu- ally salt moistness of the atmosphere, or whether it be something in the water due to the volcanic origin of the subsoil, that skin affections, of an ephemeral character, truly, but whether contagious, or not, is still a moot point, are pre- valent throughout the whole of the district. Query. Was ever the well in Park Ventou, on Tremenhehe farm, the water of which was always formerly used, as tradition says, for baptisms, re- sorted to as the well of S. Meen was, in Brittany, for the cure of such diseases ? * Jephson's walking tour in Brittany, in which see also account of the tragic ceremonies with which the poor leper was " declared " and cut off from social intercourse. ANCIENT REMAINS. |N what is now called Clahar Garden estate, one of the farms belonging to Lord Robartes, the name of which would probably be more cor- rectly rendered Claiar Cairn, or Cleyar Cam, a Barrow, thirty-six feet in diameter, was removed some time ago, for the purpose of agriculture, in which, surrounded by an outer circle of stones, four urns were discovered, varying from a foot to four inches in height. One of these urns, which were all of a coarse make, and ruddy brown hue, contained ashes, while a quantity of ashes were also found scattered in the vicinity of the other three. A number of flints were also dug up at the same spot. There is a plan of the cairn and also a good engraving of the urns given in Mr. Borlase's "Nsenia Cornubise," p. 223, et seq. At Angrouse, Mr. Peter Williams, the proprietor, has of late reclaimed and brought under cultivation a considerable portion of the " Morrops," i.e., croft and pasture land on the edge of the cliffs. While this was being effected the workmen came upon a pile of stones, thirty-five feet in diameter, and between three and four feet high. The centre of this pile was considerably lower than its outer edge, and near the western part of this, covered with layers of flat stones, was found a pit about four feet by two, and two feet deep, cut in the solid rock. Herein were discovered a number of calcined bones, the remains of an urn, of which some portions bore the marks of fire ; a bronze dagger, about 6% inches in length, with three pivots; and a globular bit of mundic, about i^ inches in diameter. It has been supposed that this last was used as a " strike-a-light " for the funeral pyre. Tumuli. - 1 7 Another tumulus was afterwards opened on this estate, also on the cliff, and about 400 yards from the former. This, however, was entirely of earth, about thirty feet across and four feet high. In the centre, under a thin flat stone, was found an urn, with its mouth upwards, and filled with ashes and burnt human bones. On Predannack Downs a third mound has lately been searched. On the nth of November, 1871, the present writer formed one of a party in its ex- ploration. It is situated at the entrance from the Downs to Hervan Lane on its southern side. " The Tumulus, in this instance," I quote " Nsenia Cor- nubiae," p. 240, " was about four feet in height, and had a diameter of forty- two feet. It was surrounded by a ring of stones set on edge, but otherwise was entirely composed of earth. At a depth of scarcely three feet, in the exact centre, the pickaxe struck into a substance much harder than the rest of the mound. This turned out to be a bed of white clay common to the country around, which had been artificially heaped up as a protection to a quantity of calcined bones and ashes. This deposit on being uncovered presented a most curious appearance. There being no covering stone the fibres and roots from the surface had found their way to the bones. These had been originally contained in a small urn, but the roots had caused them to expand and to burst this vessel. The conglomerate when removed measured about nine inches in thickness, by one foot six inches in diameter ; it had much the appearance, and quite the consistency of hard Cavendish tobacco ; and round the edges of the mass were found adhering Ihe small broken fragments of the vessel, which to the otherwise unprotected ashes had served the pur- pose of a kist. The urn must have been of the cylindrical shape, about seven inches high. It was carelessly baked, but ornamented with the chevron pattern." Later in the same day we visited two other tumuli, on the rising ground to the northward, across Hayl Kymbro, but found they had been already opened and their contents removed. The small stones of which these mounds are formed still shew the effects of the action of fire. Near these tumuli, in a N. W. direction, are many remains of robins still plainly visible. 1 8 Mullyon. PREDANNACK CROSS. This ancient monument is to be found near the village of Predannack Wartha, in the south corner of a field, through which the church path runs to Mullyon. Itself, a block of granite, it stands on a pedestal a foot in thick- ness, and four feet by three feet two inches "oblong square." The shaft of the cross is ten inches thick, and one foot, two inches, broad ; the diameter of its circular head being two feet across. The height from pedestal to the top is five feet four inches. A broad raised Cross, with ends expanded, is shewn on the Western face, and on the reverse a narrow incised one appears, surrounded by an incised circle. In the year 1852 it was found that accident or wanton hands had removed the cross from its socket, and it was discovered, lying face downward, in a neighbouring ditch. Thereupon, some good people, unwilling that the sacred symbol should long lie thus neglected, formed a party of volunteers, who, fur- nished with ropes and levers, proceed to the spot, and with a hearty yet reverent good-will, hauled out the ancient relic from its ignominious position, and once more set it upright in its former place, firmly securing it in its socket with metal wedges. ANCIENT CHAPEL AT PREDANNACK. This once stood in what is now the farm yard of the manor. There is no record of its dimensions, and the remains of a benatura and some pieces of window mullion, are hardly sufficient to fix its date. Within a few yards is a plot of ground called Jarine (dzharn, a garden), now an orchard, which was formerly a burial ground, and there is a legend connected with it which would have suited the pages of Sir Henry Spelrnan, in his " History and Fate of Sacrilege." It is said, and commonly believed, that if ever the ground in this enclosure is disturbed, some member of the occupants of the estate dies before the year is out. As a fact, it was last broken in the year 1820, and the same year a Mullyon man was murdered on his way home from Helston. Long ago, and yet, perhaps, within a century, three men, who were lepers, escaping shipwreck, found their way to Predannack ; two of them died of disease and exposure, and were buried in one corner of Jarine. The other recovered, having taken care, it is said, always to sleep among the sheep. Antiquities. 19 A curious little relic, whether connected in any way with the old chapel it is impossible to say, was picked up in the Morryps, by Mr. John Thomas, the present occupier of Predannack. One day, in 1871, as he was taking shelter under a large rock from a passing shower, his eye lighted on a bit of metal at his feet, and on taking it up he discovered it to be a small signet or seal of bronze, bearing in its centre the monogram, K.H.C.,. surmounted by a cross, having a bifurcated base, and the legend running round it VANGIES TOI " Jesus avenge thee." ANCIENT CHAPEL AT TRENANCE. There is a tradition which points to an old chapel that once stood in the valley leading down to Porthmellin, just below the present farm house at Tre- nance Veor, but there are now no remains of it to be found, and its very site is almost forgotten. The spiritual needs of the people of Mullyon must have been well looked after at one time with these three chapels, besides the parish church, that is if all, as is possible, existed together. And there was then but one form of religion. The reflection can hardly be avoided : how sad it is that Church and Preaching House are not at one in worship now in this dear old Cornish land of ours. The frequenters and upholders of both Church and Preaching House surely mean the same thing to live a Godly and a Christian life, to speak the truth in love, to discountenance sin and lawlessness at all hazards, and, if needs be, patiently suffer for the truth's sake. Until such a happy state shall again be realised, our boasted motto " One and all " must be a reproach to us rather than a ground of boasting. ANCIENT CHAPEL AT CLAHAR GARDEN. RAMBLE NO. 2. On our way hither we will- take another ramble, leaving the Church-town by the South-eastern road, which joins the direct road from Helston to the Lizard at Penhayl, on past Vounder farm-house to the Cairn. Here, in this quarry, you see the beginning of the true serpentine, which extends hence eastward and southward for about four miles. Mount the rising ground at the back of the quarry, and, provided the atmospheric conditions are at all 20 Mullyon. favourable, you shall not behold so fine a prospect, so extensive and varied a land-and-sea view, for many and many a mile. I have been on this spot in company with those who have travelled far in the East Indies and in the West, in Australia, the Pacific, and the Mediterranean, and who have con- fessed that this panorama equalled any thing of a like nature they ever beheld. One summer evening I was here with a dear friend who had resided long in Switzerland and the Tyrol. It happened to be a more than ordinarily glorious sunset. " I've seen the sun rise," said he, " often from the Righi ; I've seen him set from many a peak in many a plain, but I never before saw anything to equal this." Now let us go on through the hamlet of Meaver, and the farmyard of Clahar, towards Fenton Ariance ; but first I wish you to look at a very curious formation which Arch'laus Harry, one of our notabilities, laid bare, not long ago, whilst quarrying we shall find it in the next field, to the eastward. Note though, in passing, what we have here in the stile a twenty- eight pounder ! how came it here, in the name of all that's warlike ? What an ignominious position for such a noble weapon ! Could you not write an ode to it or on it ? Well, here is this bit of rock, and if you compare it in posi- tion with its surroundings does it not look for all the world like the mouth of an extinct volcano. Can you not imagine those perpendicular strise, as smooth as if wrought by a huge planing tool, to have been formed by the continuous upward rush of flame and detritus ? Serpentine is supposed to be of volcanic origin, I believe. Now let us down through the fields and lanes towards the silver spring farm Venton Ariance. Why, here are signs of trees too actually a decent sized and wide-spreading oak Be not surprised ; Goonhilly was once a forest, and the massive old oak seats in Mullyon church were grown at Kynance. Further down the valley, and cross the stream that comes down from Clahar water, notice the growth of those splendid ferns the hart's tongue must be some of them four feet long if they are an inch, and this lovely and thickly wooded cwm, along which runs our road to Helston. Would you imagine that you are scarcely more than a mile from the sea. Just across is a field called " Tretharrap," a name that has long puzzled the etymologists, and the readers of " Notes and Queries." These trees would, most of them, in winter, present to you a remarkable appearance, for, in proof Ancient Chapel. of the continuous moistness of the atmosphere, the lichens hang from their every branch and twig, as if they were provided with a coat of fur, or, as depen- dant rime. I have gathered it three inches long from off the boughs. But here we are at Clahar Garden. With permission from Mr. Thomas (for all the foot-paths are long ago obliterated), we will cross over the hillock on which the cairn and tumuli before described were found, and down into the wood where the remains of the old chapel are still to be seen. Here it is, with the trees and ivy growing up through its remaining bit of wall close to a small tributary to the stream which taking its rise on Goonhilly, finds its exit to the sea at Poljew. Some have supposed this chapel to have been dedicated to S. Clare, but why S. Clare is connected with this chapel is not very evident, except on the supposition that Clare and Clahar are synonymous, and this is by no means clear. St. Malo's Moor is not very far off, only just a little further down the valley, at Chypons. The external dimensions of the chapel are : Length, 21 feet; breadth, 14 feet. The walls are 2 feet 3 inches thick. There are signs of an entrance on the South side, 3 feet wide, and about four feet from the Eastern end; and of another in the north, 8 feet from the western end ; but its width it is now impossible to calculate. The building is rapidly falling to pieces, and before long will be but a mere heap of stones. I may mention here another small relic which I found in the church whilst removing some of the rotten flooring. It was lying on the sandy surface beneath (together with a few human bones, and two or three lead pencils, really sticks of soft lead, three and four inches long, and rather less than a quarter of an inch in diameter), and it consisted of a small ink or colour bottle, of an unmistakeably ancient glass, with the neck and mouth inverted after the fashion of our modern pocket ink-holders. MULLYON CHURCH. |ELAN, or S. Melanus, was, we have seen the name always formerly given in the law reports and in ecclesiastical returns to this parish, and I think, upon a little consideration, we shall conclude, together with Alban Butler, Oliver, and others, in identifying S. Melanus with S. Malo, the individual in whose memory this Church was dedicated, and whose name takes now with us the form " Mullyon." S. Malo, it would appear, was a man of many aliasses as Mellonus or Melanus, Melanius, Melan, Melonius Britannus, Mellion, Maclovius, Maclou Machutus, Mahut, Menvennus, Mawes and Meen perhaps some others also. He is to be found in our English Church Kalendar as Machutus on the i5th November, although we keep our parish feast at Mullyon on the 6th of that month the orientation of the body of the Church, after allowing for differ- ence of compass " Variation " agrees with the latter date and curiously enough the feast of S. Melan* is observed at Rennes, in Brittany, also on the 6th of November, although in the Roman Kalendar his name occurs on the 6th of January. The history of S. Malo, according to Ussher, Colgan, Alban Butler and others, runs thus : He was born early in the sixth century of rich and noble parents, in the valley of Llan Carvan, in Glamorganshire, and was baptized by S. Brendan, then Abbat of a monastery in South Wales. While yet a youth he was sent to be educated into Ireland, where he made rapid progress * Legenda Sanctorum of Bishop Grandison speak of Melanius as King of Cornwall. Thus in the legend of S. Mylor " Sanctus Melorus Meliani Cornubise Regis filius, &c." Muttyon Church. 23 in learning and virtue. Being ordained priest, he was soon after elected Bishop by the suffrages of the people ; but he declined that dignity and retired in company with his cousin-german S. Sampson, a Cornishman, into Brittany. Here he put himself under the direction of a recluse of the name of Aron, at whose request he went and preached to the heathen on the opposite Coast, and whom he afterward succeeded in the government of the monastery near Aleth. About the year 541 he was elected Bishop of this city, and here he remained until his enemies, roused to jealousy by his reputation and virtues, thrust him out of his Episcopal throne. During his exile many were induced by his holy example to imitate the purity of his life, and others were moved by his exhortations to shun the dangers of the troubled ocean of this world in the retirement of a life of meditation. He was permitted once more to return to the scene of his episcopal labours, and to reward his persecutors with for- giveness and his benediction. Being overtaken by a mortal sickness he gave up his soul to his Maker, lying on sack cloth and ashes, about the year 570. John, surnamed de la Grille, Bishop of Aleth, in 1150 removed the seat of his see to the island on which the monastery of S. S. Aron and Malo stood. Thither the remains of the latter were translated, Aleth was deserted of its inhabitants, and thenceforward the town which soon sprung up and covered the island, took his name S. Malo. The probability of Mullyon being none other than S. Malo is heightened by the fact of the frequent intercourse which, without doubt, existed about that time between the inhabitants of this part of Cornwall and those who dwelt in the north of Brittany ; and while many of our parishes preserve the names of Saints of Irish extraction, almost all those which skirt Mount's Bay are dedicated to persons who under similar circumstances to S. Malo retired into Brittany, particularly that part of it which is now called 'Cotes du Nord' thus S. Paul near Penzance, is not the Apostle Paul but S. Pol, Bishop of Leon, a native of Cornwall, and, like S. Malo, cousin-german of S. Sampson, Bishop of Dol. 1 i. Butler's lives. Vol. i. p. 341., and Oliver's Monast : Sup: notes. 24 Mullyon. Madron, is S. Paternus, or Madiern (Welsh Padern, see below under Cury). Dr. Oliver after collating several authorities concludes that Madron, or as he is locally called Madderne (or as in Chancery Proceedings Temp. Eliz. Madderen-) is none other than S. Paterne Bishop of Avranches in 6th century. Gulval is S. Gudwal who was born in Wales, was Abbat of Plecis, came into Cornwall, afterwards crossed to Brittany, succeeded S. Malo in the Bishopric of Aleth, and died about the beginning of the 7th century. 2 Breage, S. Breaca, according to Borlase and Leland an Irish disciple of S. Patrick ; but it should be remembered that S. Brieuc or Brioc, a man of illustrious extraction, a native of Great Britain, most probably of Corn- wall, crossed to Brittany when he was about 20 years of age, A.D. 429, was there ordained priest, returned to his own country, converted his parents, and with their aid built a famous Church called Grandellan. The Monastery of S. Brieuc in Brittany was erected into a Bishopric, A.D. 844.3 Gunwalloe, S, Winwolaus, or Guingualoc, of noble Welsh extraction, educated by S. Budoc (who was also a British Abbot) in the monastery of Lande- vedneck in Brittany, of which he was afterwards the Abbot. He died A.D. 529.4 Cury, S. Corentin, as a young man passed several years in the forest of Ploe- Madiern=The Parish of S. Madern. He was the first Bishop of Quimper in Brittany.s Landewednack, "Grullo, count of Cornuailles, in which the Abbey of Lande- vedneck is situated in the Diocese of Quimper-Corentinus, gave the lands and was at the expense of the foundation of this famous monastery." 6 And we have here 'The Lizard' answering to Lezardrieux (The Lizard on the Trieux) in north Brittany, and this parish of Mullyon, Melan, or Malo. Again S. Mellion Church (S. Melanus, Oliver) near Southill in east Cornwall, is dedicated to S. Melan or Malo, Southill Church being dedicated to his companion and cousin-german S. Sampson ; and here in Mullyon we have in 2. Butler, Vol. i. p. 752. _3. Butler, Vol. i. p. 549. 4. Oliver, p. 439, and Butler, Vol. i. p. 293. 5. Oliver, Sup: p. 37. 6. Butler, Vol. n. p. 1034. The Church. 2 5 Clahar garden estate, and near the remains of the ancient chapel, two fields that are called 'S. Male's moor' to this day, and on the same estate (let this go for what it may be worth) two other fields named ' Sampson's crofts.' The Church is a plain building of the latter part of the i5th century, but possessing many interesting features. It consists of nave, chancel, N. and S. aisles, Western Tower, and S. Porch, of which the following are the dimen- sions internally : . Length of Nave 42 feet. Width of Do. 17 feet. Length of Chancel 14 feet. Width of Do 17 feet. Length of N. Aisle 53 feet 10 in. Width of Do. 12 feet 4 in. Length of S. Aisle 54 feet 9 in. Width of Do. ...... 10 feet 6 in. Height of nave and aisles to ridge 24 feet and 22 feet. Height of Tower from base to top of parapet 42 feet. Internal measurement of Tower n feet x 7 feet 10. External ditto 16 feet x 15 feet. S. Porch 7 ft. 8 wide x 9 ft. deep. The Sacrarium was rebuilt eastwards to the depth of 7 feet 6 inches by Rev. F. Gregory, in 1840. The present structure evidently occupies the site of a much older church, probably one of the i2th century. The dripstone moulding, with its charac- teristic terminations, which is built into the present later tower, is of this date ; as also are the remains of a polished purbeck marble memorial slab, with a raised floriated cross upon it, which now lies in the floor of the N. aisle. Some portions of Early English window jambs, that have lately turned up, the crucifix built into the tower over the lower western window, the abaci of the Tower arch, and the fact that the Tower itself is of a different orientation to the nave and chancel all go to point to an earlier edifice. This indeed appears to have been the history of almost all our Cornish parish churches D 26 Mullyon, rebuilt in the i$th century on older sites, and retaining in many places rem- nants of the former building of a first pointed, and in some cases, a Norman type. Of the present Church at Mullyon the nave and S. aisle appear to be the earlist portions, the N. aisle being added probably not long before the Tower was built. The pillars which separate the latter from the nave (there are 6 on either side) are of better stone and better workmanship than the southern row, and the arches are somewhat loftier. A portion of the S. wall, that between the porch and the priest's door was rebuilt in 1691. The Tower, built by Robert Luddre, in 1500, is a massive structure of three stages, having a good newel staircase in the N. W. corner. Composed as it is of large blocks of granite and hornblende, it is curious to notice how infinitely better the latter has stood the wear and tear of the weather than the former, which is commonly supposed to be the most durable of building material. The Tower is curiously enough built on to, against, and not into or with the western walls of the W., N. and S. aisles. It contains four bells, which were, replacing older ones, cast at Hayle Foundry, in 1828, Peter Willey and Hanibal Shepherd being Church Wardens. Extract from Parish Book " 1828 to Lady Day, 1829, To 4 new bells and clappers, stocking, &c. ...^187 16 ij^ " Received for old bells and iron 171 18 3 15 17 io>^ The windows, with the exception of the Eastern windows of the aisles, which are four-light eliptic-headed, and the upper tower lights, are poor and without tracery. The roof of both nave and aisles is of the common Cornish cradle pattern, with carved principals, bosses and wall-plates. On the N. wall-plate of the chancel will be found this legend in raised letters " too robert : luifcre op' rfirtt a.to. milto.ccwc." and on the wall-plate of the south chancel aisle, the following in ruder type "|)oc opufii factttm fait an? Homini. ffiJD" The Church. 27 The old oak seats whose beauty is now more appreciable since they were set up in their proper places, and relieved of their encumbrances of rotting deal by the present Vicar in 1870, are probably unique, being "carved in a manner much superior to those in any other church in the West of Cornwall." Slight. Tradition speaks of their having been wrought from timber grown on what are now Goonhilly and Kynance Downs. If this were the case it will have been from the last remnants of the Nemaean wood, in close proximity to which S. Rumon had as long ago as the 9th century, built his oratory and cell- These seats were probably carved about the time that the roof was made, and they shew signs of having been designed and wrought by four different hands. The treatment of some is very bold, and many are in a very good state of preservation, even after the lapse of 400 years ; the features of some of the figures being as sharp and distinct as on the day on which they were cut. Besides a number of very bold initial letters, and the usual emblems of the crucifixion, may be found in the medallions of the bench ends the heads of Herod and his men of war, of Judas Iscariot, Pontius Pilatus, and his wife Juditha, the mockers at the crucifixion, the soldiers asleep at the tomb, &c. &c. ; and in addition, as was not unfrequently the case with the old carvers at the instiga- tion of the secular doubtless caricatures of some of the regular clergy, and of those in minor orders. And not the least interesting portion of this wood work is to be found in the almost Italian form of some of the designs, remark- able as it is for its thus early appearance in Cornwall. A great number of these bench ends were rescued from destruction and decay in 1870, but rumour speaks of a good deal of pilfering that has been committed, even of late years. The present writer has himself seen a modern photograph of one, whom it is not necessary here to name, leaning on a chair, which contingent circumstances lead him to conclude could have had no other origin than the old carved bench ends from Mullyon church. At the same time that the remaining seats were cleansed from the accumu- lated filth of years, and set up in their original places, the lower portion of the rood screen was discovered under the rotten deal pews in the N. aisle. This also has been restored to its former position, and it is hoped that, however much it has suffered from its burial, it may be allowed to remain in its present 28 Mnllyon. position and state, unaltered beautiful even as a wreck, and a token and remembrancer of times when men had a care for God's house as for their own. Mr. Blight, in his "Churches of West Cornwall," gives a woodcut of " two figures carved in wood, each having one hand raised to bless. One of these, evidently intended for S. Clare, stands at the entrance of an ecclesias- tical structure and holds a monstrance in her right hand. These carvings formed part of the roodscreen." This was written .previous to the discovery of the roodscreen mentioned above, which is of an earlier date and a totally different character. It may be meant for S. Clare, but it has no connexion with the ancient chapel or the estate named Clahar Garden, for this last is simply the modern rendering of Cleyr Cam. They appear to me to be panels of an old chest, perhaps the old church chest, and they now form a front to the Litany stool. The whole of the carved work in Mullyon Church will be interesting, not only to the architect and the antiquarian, but also to any devout Christian who will not think anything too good to be dedicated to his Master's service ; and nothing now should be left undone to preserve these interesting relics from further decay. Some idea may be formed of the internal state of the Church a few years ago, when the writer states that with his own hands he carted out fifteen wheelbarrow loads of perfectly rotten snuff-like wood, while in 1870 removing the deal sleeping pews which hid the old oak seats. That they should have, in a short time, reached this state of decay, is not wonderful, when the western doorway was built up, the north door was built up, the priest's door was built up, and there was not a window that could let in the air, and the only kind of ventilation the place had was when the Church was opened for service on Sundays. A parishioner was lately heard to make the remark to a stranger, " Our Church now do smill sa sweet as a rose," leaving the impression on the auditor that there was a time when it did not. At one period it was moreover necessary to protect ones feet by India-rubber goloshes or iron pattens from the frequent pools of water lying in the alleys between the pews. But now we have changed all that. Deo gratias ! The Church. 29 In the Porch there exist the remains of a plain Benatura, or holy water Stoup, the well-worn stone front of which tells a tale of a time when people were wont to come to church on other occasions than that of funerals only. Immediately opposite to the 4-centred internal archway of the porch is the Devil's door in the north wall ; so called, as legends say, from the ancient custom of opening this door at the time of Baptism to allow of a speedy retreat of the evil spirit to his northern abodes of darkness. The staircase of the Rood loft has disappeared, but the entrance doorway to the staircase, as well as the exit above, and the aperture through the north wall of the nave, were all brought to light during the reparations of 1870. It was in this doorway that the marble memorial slab was discovered, being turned face inward, and built up into the opening, even as the remains of the church- yard cross, to be mentioned below, was found buried with its head downwards, as if some of our predecessors had, in their mistaken piety, endeavoured to obliterate or hide out of sight, every symbol of our salvation. There is in the sacrarium wall a modest and well cut brass inscription to the memory of Thomas Flavel, a former Vicar, who held the living for 48 years ; and there are also two " superior " mural tablets to successors. The following is a copy of Flavel's monument : Thomce Flavel Clerici Joh : Flavel: S: T: D : Fil: Com Sommerseten Nati Schola Tivert Dev Educati Col : S : Trinitatus Oxon Alumni A : M: ( Mullianemis Vicar ii Ecclce < Ruani Majoris Rectoris ( E : D : Petri Exon Prebend : Hie Deponuntur Exuvice Anno atatis sues LXXVII Et Dot Nostrijes : Chi : 1682. ' Earth take thine Earth, my Sin. let Satan havet The World my goods, my Soul: my God, who gavet For from these four : Earth ; Satan ; World and God My flesh ; my Sin, my Goods, my Soul I had. 30 Mullyon. The following is on an incised slate now lying in the North Aisle : J< Here lyeth the Body of Robert Priske who died ye 26th day of March in the yeare of our Lord God 1699. JEtes suse 62 yeares. My sun is set My glas is run My Life is spent My days are don Neither witt nor virtue can preuail Death takes no quarter gives no Bail Yet I doe hope to see ye day When death's strong power shall away Tho' now I lye here in ye dust Yet surely rise again I must To meet my Sauiour in ye skey Goe reader goe prepare to dye. The Windows at one time must have contained a considerable quantity of stained glass, if they were not wholly filled with it. The few remnants that were left have been carefully collected, and now go to form (missing portions having been supplied) a beautiful subject The presentation of their costly gifts by the Eastern Magi. This has been placed in a new window of stone work in the East end of the Chancel. The subject, which has been artistically handled, was entrusted to Messrs. Beer and Driffield, of Exeter. The Sacrarium and chancel floor have lately been relaid with floriated encaustic tiles from the manufactory of Mr. W. Godwin, of Lugwardine Works, Hereford. The head and arms of the old Churchyard Cross were discovered in 1870, turned upside down and inserted in the line of kerb stone which marks the path outside the Western Lych gate. This ancient relic has also been pre- served and set up on an appropriate shaft and base, in the usual position, S.E. of the Porch, it bears the following inscription. TO HIM WHO RAISED THIS CROSS AND TO ALL FAITHFUL PEOPLE PARDON AND PEACE GRANT O LORD AMEN. * Within the last few years, besides the internal wcrk already mentioned, the Nave, Chancel, and S. Aisle roofs have been entirely re-slated, and new lead Its Vicars. 31 gutters laid down, the bells have been newly set up and the tower repaired and re-pointed, but much is still required to be done, and funds are sorely needed. It seems more than a pity that the present inhabitants (none of whom, with two or three exceptions, have contributed to the work of keeping their Church from falling to utter decay) should decline not only to meet the current expenses incident to the usual Church Services, but even to keep their Church- yard, their only burial-ground, in decent order. LIST OF VICARS OF MULLYON. ROBERT LUDDRE, sometime Provost of Glasney College, Penryn, and who built Mullyon Tower and Church roofs. He is entered in the Valor Eccksias- ticus of Bp. Vesey as Vicar 3rd June 1536 ALEXANDER DAW, was Vicar in 1549 THOMAS FLAVEL, was Vicar for 48 years, having been instituted in 1634, and dying. 1682 WILLIAM TONKEN, died 1720 JOHN WILLS 1750 HUGH TONKEN, of Trenance, in this Parish, Rector of Lidford, in Devon, 1747. Vicar of this Parish, and Chaplain on board H. M. Ship ' Vanguard ' in Plymouth Sound 1755 died 1760 NICHOLAS CARKEET, 1780 RICHARD VIVIAN, sometime fellow of Exeter College, Oxford, resigned 1797 ROOPE ILBERT 1798 THOMAS ASH died 1812 EDWARD WARNEFORD resigned 1831 THOMAS LOVELL BLUETT died 1834 FRANCIS GREGORY 1853 HENRY BAWDEN BULLOCKE resigned 1865 EDMUND GEORGE HARVEY For extracts from Churchwardens' Books see Appendix B. RAMBLE No. 3. EAVING Church Town by the foot-path that leads to Le Frowder, and on past Merres in the direction of Polurrian, we pass along a narrow lane, in which the rare fern Lanceolatum is to be found. Asplenium Marinum reaches a very luxuriant growth in the neighbouring cliffs, and about the Cove flourish the Golden Samphire, the Lady's Finger, and the Tree Mallow. For a complete botanical list of the whole peninsula of the Meneag this district of Leguminosse, I cannot do better than refer the reader to " A week at the Lizard " of the Rev. C. A. Johns, as also for a catalogue of birds observed, both of which are compiled with evident care. In the vicinity of Polurrian Cove, on either side and on the edge of the cliffs, the remains of many a storm-lost mariner have found a last resting place, for it is only of a comparatively recent date a little more than half a century (by an Act of Parliament brought in by the late Mr. Davies Gilbert) that greater care has been manifested for the bodies of the wreck-drowned, by their being interred in the Parish Burial Grounds. Ascend the hill to the southward and we come upon another deserted mine Huel Fenwick. This shaft was dug to the depth of about 30 fathoms, an engine erected, the "bob " of which was " heaved " on 7th December, 1853, but in the following year, no ore making its appearance, the " concern was knocked." Miners, however, still hold to the belief that good copper is to be found not very far off. On further, past the hoar rock carrag luz the flag staff, and the coast- guard look-out, and hence you look down upon our principal fishing ground. Pilchard Fishery. 33 Here it is, and on the adjoining head of Henscath, that the Huer stands in the months of Autumn, watching with anxious eye for the approach of a " school " of fish, or to direct the boats below whilst " shooting a seine." PILCHARD FISHERY. The pilchard fishery here, although on no extensive scale, has been at most times attended with fair profits to the adventurers, excepting in the seasons between 1859 and 1864, during which period not a single fish was taken. There are now eight seines employed, of which five are the property of Messrs. Bolitho, Coulson, and Co. ; Edward Batten, Esq., owns one ; and Messrs. Trahair and Co., of Newlyn, keep two seines. The season commences usually about the beginning of September, and continues on till late in December, the summer fishery having been discontinued many years ago. The autumn fishery was commenced in 1823, and has been carried on ever since. The Mullyon Farmers also once speculated with a seine, but relin- quished their venture in 1832. The mode of enclosing the pilchard has been so often and so minutely described, that it is unnecessary for me to repeat it here. I would, however, for an elaborate and succinct account of the Fisheries of Mounts Bay, refer to a series of papers which appeared in the Royal Cornwall Gazette of February and March, 1850, under the well- known initials, R. Q. C. The manner of paying the men employed is curious, and should be noted. With us at Mullyon, it is at present, thus : Each Huer receives 1 7 shillings per week and every twentieth dozen of the fish. The shooters, or those who pay out the net, get los. 6d., and the crew gs. per week ; and these last together divide amongst them one quarter part of the whole catch, which is thus appor- tioned : the two shooters, a share and half a share each ; the master of the cock boat and the bowman, a share and a quarter each ; and the remainder of the crew, a share a piece. In addition to this, the shooters receive two pence each ; and the master of the cockboat and the bowman, one penny each on every hogshead of the owners' share of the fish. There is an error in " A Week at the Lizard " which requires correction. The Author says, p. 37, third edition, " Experienced hands can detect a shoal many miles from the shore, by the difference of colour produced in the water, 34 Mullyon. as well as by unusual flights of sea birds. The excitement now becomes very great ; labourers are summoned from the harvest fields ; women finish off their household work in haste, and all are in eager anticipation of a catch on a grand scale. The seine boats are hauled down, manned and loaded with their nets in all haste, and proceed to the particular spot where experience has taught the fishermen they will stand the best chance of ' shooting the seine ' with advantage." Few fish would be caught if this plan were adopted. The fact is, as is well known, men and nets, in the boats, afloat, are kept in constant readiness to " shoot " at a moment's notice. I have known but six minutes to have elapsed between the huer's first sighting the fish and the completion of the process of shooting the seine and enclosing them. This occurred to a seine of Messrs. Bolitho's, 28th September, 1866. Two or three words in connection with the Pilchard fishery seem to demand more attention than has yet been given them as regards their meaning " Huer," not hewer as it is sometimes wrongly spelt, is evidently from the Norman French, and signifies one whose business it is to cry or raise an alarm. Seine is, doubtless, derived originally from the Greek. Thus, S. Matthew, chap, xiii, v. 47, " The kingdom of Heaven is like unto a net " sagene so in the Vulgate, " Sagena " Anglo-saxon segne, now scan or more correctly " seine," pronounced as the name of the French river ; but what is " Heva," the cry that is used on the approach of a shoal of fish and the shooting of a seine ? Is it a mere exclamation of joy a sort of lo ! Hymen ! lo ! Bacche ! &c., or can it be in any way deduced from the following fantastic legend, which is given by Bernardin de Saint Pierre ? He is writing of Havre, his native place, of the river Seine and of Cap Le Heve. " The Seine, the daughter of Bacchus and nymph of Ceres, had followed into the land of the Gauls the goddess of wheat, where she was seeking all the earth over for her daughter Proserpine. When Ceres had terminated her wanderings, the Seine begged of her as a reward for her services, the meadows through which the river at present flows. The goddess consented, and granted moreover that wine should grow wherever the daughter of Bacchus planted her feet. She left then the Seine upon these shores, and gave her as her com- 35 panion and follower the nymph HeVa, who was bidden to watch beside her for fear she might be carried away by some god of the sea, as her daughter Proserpine had been by the god of Hades. One day, while the Seine was amusing herself on the sands, in quest of shells, and when she fled with loud cries before the blue sea waves, which sometimes wetted her feet, Heva, her companion, discovered under the water the white locks, the empurpled visage, and the azure robe of Neptune. The god had come from the Orcades after a great earthquake, and was traversing the shores of the ocean, examining with his trident whether their foundations had been shattered. On seeing him, Heva shrieked loudly, and at her warning cry, the Seine immediately fled towards the meadows. But the sea-god had also descried the nymph of Ceres, and moved by her brightness and charming mien, he drove his sea-horses in swift pursuit. Just as he was on the point of overtaking her, she cried upon Bacchus her father, and Ceres her mistress. Both heard her ; and as Neptune stretched forth his arm to seize her, all the body of the Seine dissolved into water ; her green veil and vestments, which the winds fluttered before her, were changed into emerald waves, she was transformed into a river of the same colour, which still finds a pleasure in winding through the scenes she had loved in her days of nymphood : but what is best worthy of notice is, that Neptune, despite the metamorphosis, never ceased to love her, as is also said of the river Alphaeus with regard to the fountain Arethusa. But, if the god of ocean has preserved his passion for the Seine, the Seine still cherishes her antipathy to him. Twice a day he pursues her with awful roar ; and each time the Seine flies from him into the green inlands, ascending towards her source, contrary to the natural course of rivers, and separates her green from the cerulean billows of the ocean." ' Heva died of sorrow, for the loss of her mistress. But the Nereids, to reward her for her fidelity, raised to her memory, on the shore, a tomb of black and white stones, which are visible from a great distance. By a celestial artifice, they also enclosed in them an echo, that Heva, after her death, might both by sight and hearing forewarn the sailors of the danger of the sea. This tomb is yonder precipitous mountain, composed of funereal strata of black and white stones. It still bears the name of HeVa." 36 Mullyon. I fear the above suggested derivation is, however, rather ingenious than probable. "Heva" would be more simply evolved from the Celtic " Helfa" a draught of fishes, Our neighbours at Cadgwith and the Lizard, cry " Hubba " ; but we, with S. Ives folk (and they are most likely to be correct) shout " Heva ! " The pages of The Mullyon Gull record an incident connected with the Mullyon pilchard fishery, thus : Oral qui laborat. How THE PARSON CAUGHT HIS FISH ON CHRISTMAS DAY. A TRUE STORY. "AH on ye shores of Mullyon Cove, When sumer dales ben gon, 'Tis iollie to spye ye pilcharde bryghte Y sparklinge in ye sonne. " OLD SONG. On Christmas morn, in sixty-nine, Not late, tho' left i'the lurch, The Parson, he, with his Quiristers three, Was on his way to Church. " Look out ! look out ! my Quiristers ! Look out ! look out !" quoth he, " For the people all run to find out the fun Whatever it may be." " Here's Peter running down the lane Here's Ritchie, Sam, and John,"- " Heva ! heva !" they all cry out, " Come, lev' us all be gone." " We can't all go," the Parson said " I may not go with ye, I've others, sure, in bulk to cure, Than the fishes o' the sea." " We may'nt all go," the Parson said " Ye're fishermen, and cry Heva ! heva ! when pilchards come, But a fisher of men am I." " Or at qui labor at." 37 " Therefore, good John, while at my work, Busy as I shall be, While ye're afloat, and I'm at Church, I will remember ye." They hied them down unto the cove Let those rejoice that win, For full seines three were shot i' the sea, And the pilchards were therein. " There's heaps o' pilchurs now," cries Tom, " There's a passel o' pilchurs now, There's hunderds o' hos-geads in William's net, And tummals under our bow." " As purty a sight as ever I seed," Said John, " of a Christmas day, But hark to me a minute, my dears, And mind what I do say The passon goin' to Church this morn, Said he'd remember we ; So now, to kip things straight, say I, Lev' us remember he." And then they took of the pilchards bright In baskets to the town, And at the Vicarage door they laid Their glitt'ring burden down. " Well done ! well done ! my fishers bold !" The Parson then did say, " 'Tis well you see, both for you and me To labour and to pray." Now let us descend once more to Porthmellin, the spot " distinguished by its coves, rocks, island, and sandy shore for ever white with ocean foam." But first endeavour to take in and comprehend the scene before you the 38 Mullyon. stern and rugged cliffs, the glass-green and pellucid waters, the island peace- fully reclining on its watery bed, and the ever varying lights and shadows hovering and playing over all. "Some time before small pox was extirpated," quoth the sage Professor Diogenes Teufelsdroch, " there came a new malady of the spiritual sort on Europe : I mean the epidemic, now endemical, of view-hunting. Poets of old date, being privileged with senses, had also enjoyed external nature ; but chiefly as we enjoy the chrystal cup which holds good or bad liquor for us ; that is to say, in silence or with slight incidental commentary ; never, as I compute, till after the Sorrows of Werter, was there man found who would say : Come, let us make a description ! Having drunk the liquor, let us eat the glass ! Of which endemic the Jenner is unhappily still to seek." Who could attempt a description of Mullyon Cove after this ? Let us go down and take a boat, and on your way note that peculiar throw-down of stones, some of them as square cut as if with a tool for building. How came they there in such fantastic array ? We will take a cruise along under the cliffs, for until you have viewed these from the sea you can scarce be said to have really seen them. As we row along I will tell you what our crabbers do. CRAB FISHERY. Those are the buoys of their store pots, just inside the island, wherein they stow the fish till called for. The crab and lobster fishing begins about the 2ist March, provided the weather be suitable, and lasts till Michaelmas ; each boat has from 40 to 50 pots, which cost on an average 303. a dozen. The bait they use is all manner of fish, which they either catch in trammels made for the purpose, or purchase of passing boats engaged on the hook-and- line fishery. They do not scruple to use the best of fish for bait. Turbot, brill, surmullet, and salmon, together with coarser sorts, are all cut up for bait. For it is a mistake to suppose that these crustacese are, as is nevertheless com- monly supposed, undainty feeders. They turn up their noses at stale fish, as we should ; nay, they are even more particular, more fastidious, as one might say, in their tastes. Should you have a good fresh fish on Saturday and, not requiring the whole of it for bait, took some on shore and preserved it Crab Fishery. 39 with as much scrupulous care as you would for your own eating, on the Monday a craw-fish disdains to look at it, a crab will not touch it, and a lobster, if very hungry, might persuade himself to taste it, but it it is just as possible that you would find him sitting on the outside of the pot, contemplating it, and debating in his own mind whether it would agree with him or not. The crabber visits his pots every day when the state of the sea will allow him, at neap tides on the slack of ebb, and at springs on the flood slack ; and every day, or every other day at the furthest, he changes his bait. First he visits his string of pots that are nearest the shore, in 10 fathoms water ; then the others, until he arrives at his fourth or fifth string, in 20 fathoms. Loss of pots is often occasioned by passing vessels or a gale of wind. Fish are only occasionally otherwise lost, unless indeed a store pot breaks loose. One of our men had missed a pot on an occasion, but recovered it after several days, when he found a small bag attached to it, and in the bag two sixpences, the remaining honesty of the dishonest plunderer had thus compelled him to make some kind of compensation to the owner. The fish are seldom brought on shore unless bespoke ; but a smack, either from Scilly or Lundy calls every nine or ten days in the season, and takes the whole catch, with others from other places, to Southampton. Four or five dozen ot fish per boat is the supply this smack may reckon upon at each visit. Prices vary very much ; but last year 145. a dozen was given for lobsters. 265. a dozen for crabs and crawfish, and 25. 6d. a dozen for she crabs. I hope you have been admiring the cliffs all this time, for after we have been down a little further off Pigeon ogo and the Rill, I mean to come back to Gue Greze, where I have something else to speak of; but I may tell you here that except the granite uprearing at Tol y Pedn, on the other side of Mounts Bay, you may look in vain for a more splendid bit of cliff between this and the Orkneys. Is the motion of the boat rather much for your comfort? Then let us ashore. This is Gue Greze the curving valley, and here is the soap rock, or, rather, the spot where it was, there is not much remaining. 40 Mullyon. THE SOAPY ROCK. The principal ingredients for the manufactory of porcelain, it was long ago known, were to be found in this county, where lead and tin for the glazing, and the best description of clays, lay close along side one another. The valuable properties of the Soap Rock do not seem to have been fully appreciated, even if known, until the middle of the i8th century; but after the discovery of it in this spot, by Mr. R. Chaffers, in 1755, greater quantities appear to have been raised here, at Gue Greze, or " Corez Cove " as it was then called, than in any other part of Cornwall. Mr. Richard Chaffers, who was a native of Liverpool, and a contemporary of Josiah Wedgwood, having obtained permission from several land proprietors to quarry or bore for soap rock, made a journey into Cornwall in the year 1755 or thereabouts. After varied attempts, attended with varied success, he at length discovered in this valley a larger quantity of clay than he had found elsewhere, and a cargo of this was speedily shipped for Liverpool. Here, Chaffers, by his perseverance and chemical skill and knowledge, soon succeeded in producing from the soapy clay such excellent specimens of china ware, as fairly to win from the great Wedgwood himself the acknowledgement that he had met with a formidable rival ; " Mr. Chaffers," said he, " beats us in all his colours, and can produce for two guineas what I cannot for five." Chaffers lived for ten years after this, during which time the works were con- tinued here for a supply of the Kaolin, and he was enabled to mature his operations on his important discovery ; but on his demise, his principal assis- tant, Podmore, having died just before him, commenced the breaking up of this branch of the ceramic art that he had brought so near perfection. At Mullyon, Mr. Chaffers's foreman of the works was one Gavregan Teppit (whose burial is recorded in our register, 4th June, 1785, "aged about 70 ;" and whose daughter was married to the then Vicar of Mullyon), and several letters of this man to his master are still extant. From these, it may be learnt that in 1756 Teppit had sent "eight tuns and fourteen hundred of sopey-rock to Hail," to be shipped for Liverpool : and so during the years following, the work of raising and sending off the clay was continued, save, perhaps, in the depth of winter. In 1759, he writes, "We have the finest parcel of clay that The Soapy Rock. 41 was ever seen in Paradock. There was a man down in October who said he would give any money for such a parcel." In 1762 they "could raise half a tun a day." In the last three months of 1763 he sends off 32 tons ; and in his last letter to Mr. Richard Chaffers, dated 28th November, 1765, there is an account of all monies received and paid by him up to that date. It must have been in the following December that Mr. Richard Chaffers died, for Teppit's next letter, towards the end of January, 1766, is written to Mr. Hannibal Chaffers, saying he has 20 tons to weigh off, and that there was a very good vein in sight. He also describes some copper works which they had come across, very rich, and bringing ^96 a ton. The -last of his letters is dated December, 1767, when the soap rock works were still being car- ried on. Mr. Christian, co-executor of Mr. R. Chaffers, with Mr. Hannibal, is spoken of as producing large china vases of equal quality with the oriental The lease of this mine of soap rock in Gue Greze was sold in 1775 to the Worcester Porcelain Company, for ,500. The value of the clay had been about ,20 a ton ; the lord's dues being \ upon every ton when weighed off. In the extracts from the Duesbury papers (Art Journal, 1862, p. 4) we find that Richard Holdship, on leaving Worcester a few years after his bankruptcy, offered his services at Derby, and that he was enabled at that time (1764) to offer soap rock at fair prices to the Derby works. For much of the preceding account I am indebted to Mr. G. A. Howitt ; and for a graphic description of Chaffers' journey into Cornwall, and for more minute particulars connected with the works at this spot, I would refer to " Marks and Monograms on Pottery and Porcelain, by W. Chaffers, London, 1874. Mr. J. B. Kempthorne, the present proprietor of Polhormon, in this parish, has enabled me to add the following with respect to other contemporaneous works on Predannack Downs, which will show, in some measure, how Hold- ship was in a position to offer the soap rock at Derby. About the year 1760 Mr. John Thorneloe, one of the partners in the Worcester works, visited Mullyon, staying for some weeks in the house of Mr. Renatus Kempthorne, and accompanied him on the first raising of the soap 42 Mullyon. rock, at Dorose, on Predannack Downs. Thorneloe took with him three boxes, samples of the clay, from which three sets of china were manufactured. From 1760 to 1770 the Worcester company, Richard Holdship being, during portion of that time, one of the partners, worked the quarry (which may still be seen) by a grant, or simple written agreement. They then, with the assistance of Mr. R. Kempthorne, obtained a lease, of which an extract is here given. " Grant of indenture bearing date i January, 1770, by and from Geo. Hunt, of Lanhydrock, in the county of Cornwall, Esq., to John Wall, William Davis, Benjamin Blayney, and Renatus Kempthorne, of the parish of Mullion, in the county of Cornwall, gentlemen, of free liberty and authority to dig in a certain vein or lode of mineral earth commonly called soapy rock, on Pre- dannack Common, in the parish of Mullion, to break and carry off at their will for the term of 2 1 years from the date of the said lease, for the yearly rent of 10 guineas, and in case of raising a larger quantity than ten tons of the said mineral earth in any one year, then subject to the payment of 21 shillings for each ton exceeding 10 tons that should be raised, &c., &c." One of the sets of porcelain above mentioned is now in possession of Mr. J. B. Kempthorne, and it is quite unique in character and manufacture. Chaffers's lease of the other works must have been a long one, for when it was purchased by the Worcester Company, in 1775, there were still 17 years unexpired, and the mine had already been worked for 20 years. And now to continue our ramble, let us ascend the hill to the right, and walk along the edge of the cliff to the Rill and Kynance Cove. Soon after we reach the summit, we are just over Pigeon Hugo Poethon ogo, the boiling cave and may look down a sheer perpendicular rock of dark serpentine to a depth of 250 feet below, where the water never recedes from the base, and where, as the name implies, it is almost never at rest. This portion of the cliff, and that onwards to what is called The ffotse, are most interesting, precipi- tous, and rugged, washed and lashed as they are by the tempests of winter into every fantastic and inconceivable form. The view from the Rill itself across Mount's Bay is fine, though inferior to that from Pedn Predannack ; but from this point you may well appreciate the Kynance Cove. 43 hopeless state of any vessel becoming embayed in a south-westerly or south south-westerly gale. From the southern side of the Rill we get the most charming view of Kynance Cove Kynance with all its varied loveliness, which has so often inspired the pen of the word painter, and the pencil of the artist ; whose romantic rocks and sands, and coves and caves, have so frequently been en- larged upon from the time of Charles Littleton, Dean of Exeter, and Dr. Borlase, to the two-penny guide book of the present day, that they can need no further description here. Moreover, is not Kynance known to every one of a host of " Tourists," who drives the twelve miles out from Helston in the morning with the intention of " doing the Lizard," and having devoted the whole of three hours to his arduous task, drives his uninteresting twelve miles back again with the satis- faction, we must fairly suppose, of "having done the Lizard." Don't disturb him, his ignorance to him is bliss. In most cases you will find it a thankless office if you undertake to suggest to a " tourist " any other plan than that he has himself worked out by the aid of Murray, or Black, and the Helston 'bus. I have known of some who have meekly " done the Lizard " remaining, by reason of the weather, during their allotted three hours, within the four walls of the by no means capacious parlour of the Lizard Hotel. Thus much I may say, that Mr. Johns in " A week at the Lizard," though he has fallen into sundry inaccuracies regarding other portions of the coast, is generally correct at Kynance ; that is, after making due allowance for the change that is constantly being wrought on the softer portions of the rock by the unintermittent washing of the sea. And I cannot refrain from repeating here what I have elsewhere begged you to remember, that the beauties of Kynance lie in Mullyon and not " at the Lizard." WRECKING AND SMUGGLING. WRITER in the October number of Meliora for 1865, in an article on "Cornwall and the Cornish," says, that in the last century, before. the preaching of the Wesleys (who, as a certain witty cleric has observed, taught west country folk to " alter " their sins), " If a Cornish- man said his prayers at all he would pray for a good wreck, and he would not scruple, by false signals and other means, to bring about such a catastrophe. And as to smuggling, that was considered a virtue. The revenue officers were esteemed public enemies. When Lord Exmouth's brother, Capt. Pellew, was sent to Falmouth to put down smuggling, he found some of his own officers running a contraband cargo of wine, in broad daylight, and in open port. One noted smuggler built himself a fortress, and armed it with long range guns, and one day when Capt. Pellew approached the stronghold more closely than was agreeable to its occupant, the fort opened fire upon the ship, and a sharp engagement followed, in which the aggressor happily was worsted." On the 4th April 1786, the Happy-go-lucky, an armed lugger of 14 guns, commanded by a notorious smuggler, Welland, a Dover man, was surprised at anchor off Mullyon, by the revenue cutters Hawk and Lark, and captured after a chase to the westward, and a desperate fight, in which Welland was killed. Osier's Life of Lord Exmouth, p. 386. That a coast like this of Mullyon, with all its natural facilities for carrying on contraband operations, should not have been a favourite locality for " making a run," is hardly credible ; but that blood shedding was as frequent as in The Smuggling " Service" 45 many other parts is not likely, partly by reason of the smugglers taking greater care to avoid the others as much as possible, and partly because the revenue men, owing to the smallness of their force, would often, as a matter of prudence, keep out of the way until " the business " was completed. I think it a mistake to pre-suppose such an invariable desperateness of character in those who took part in smuggling transactions as one finds so commonly attributed to them. Many and many a smuggler was otherwise a good, quiet, harmless creature enough, and who probably thought that in assisting to "run" a cargo or two he was hurting nobody. That the amount of smuggling that was carried on has ever been exaggerated I do not think. During the last century, and the early part of this, it is said, that there was hardly a family in these parts that was not more or less concerned in the trade ; and men living may even now, so far from considering it a disgrace, be heard to speak proudly of the day when they were engaged "in the smuggling service" Intimidation by a show of front or force often prevented an actual skirmish, and of this the following story affords a double example : " Many years ago," writes the Rev. Francis Gregory, a former vicar of this parish, " a Mount's Bay boat, commanded by a man nick-named ' Billy of Praow,' ran ashore at Mullyon Cove with a cargo of French brandy. The Hecate, gun-brig, was then stationed in Mount's Bay, and suspecting what was going on, despatched a boat to take possession of the smuggler. The crew of the latter, being taken by surprise, made little or no resistance, and abandoned their prize. The country people, however, being informed of the fact, collected in large numbers, broke into the armoury of Volunteers or Militiamen, at Trenance, furnished themselves with weapons and ammunition, went down to the cliffs, and firing upon the captors from behind the rocks, compelled them in turn to relinquish their booty, and to return to their ship. Many of the most respectable persons in the parish engaged in this lawless enterprise, and though they were threatened with prosecution, the matter was hushed up." At another time two brothers, residing at Trenance, were suddenly aroused in the middle of the night, and called upon to assist in landing a cargo. One of them, either in a fit of nervousness, or from unwillingness to engage in the 46 Mullyon. hazardous undertaking, found himself powerless to get on his clothing, and so retired to bed again. The other, and he who called him, were both drowned whilst engaged in their expedition. Another story runs thus : A Mullyon man who had often crossed the channel and back in the capacity of spotsman (that is, one who has charge of the cargo, and determines the precise spot on the coast where it is to be landed), and who was known to have made many successful trips, was engaged on another ; but on this occasion, the preventive men getting wind of his departure for France, determined to use every effort towards capturing him on his return, and to this end the revenue cutter was employed for some time in cruising off the Mullyon coast, while the land force was augmented by relays from far and near. He had employed a Mount's Bay boat for his voyage, and one fine evening, spite of the strict look-out that was being kept, he quietly landed his cargo of kegs at the foot of the cliffs, at a spot called The Chair, between Mullyon Cove and Predannack Head. He then sent off the boat with two hands, while he himself, and another of his men, went to meet their " friends " at Predannack, whom they found in the act of lighting a large fire, the common signal employed in such cases, to warn him of the presence and vigilance of " the enemy." To their astonishment he told them that " Cousin Jacky," which was the slang for " the Cognac," was, so far, safe on the rocks at the Chair. No time was then lost by the party in repairing thither, and on their arrival, so quietly was everything done, that they actually heard the thump of the bow of the revenue cutter's gig as she ran into their own retreating and empty boat. As quickly as possible they laid hold of and carried away as many kegs as they were able, depositing them, pro tern, in the adit of a deserted mine shaft, leaving the remainder on the rocks to take their chance. Meanwhile, the preventive gig had carried off the smuggler boat, and, taking the two men on board, made her fast to the cutter, and then returned to the cliffs to search for the precious cargo ; but in vain ; although the gig's men had actually landed within a hundred yards of the remaining kegs, they were not sufficiently wide awake to discover them, and so they pulled back to the cutter for the night after a fruitless errand. The smuggling party now returned to the Chair and shouldered all but two of the remaining kegs, these " Cousin Jack." 47 last having somehow broken from their moorings ; and while they were taking the others up over the cliff, the morning had sufficiently broken to enable them to see the revenue cutter lying off in the roads at anchor, with their own boat made fast to her astern. Information was then forwarded to other " friends " in Church town to the effect, that, although almost the whole cargo had been safely landed, there were yet two casks that might be recovered. Whereupon a fishing boat was sent out from the Cove, which, under the pre- text of " whiffing," slowly passed down along under the Chair, and in a very short time had the rest of "Cousin Jack" on board. They had hardly got the two kegs comfortably stowed, when by came the Revenue cutter's gig again, this time engaged in " creeping " or dragging the bottom, in the hope of lighting upon some portion of the suspected cargo. The fishermen's whole attention was of course absorbed in their fishing. " What luck, lads ?" cried one of the coast guard, "What luck?" "Why fish is very slight this mornin', very slight," was the reply, and, with a sort of malicious self-satisfaction, was added, " but we don't seem to be doin' so bad, neither." Not many hours after, the original spotsman (the whole of his smuggled cargo being by this time " safe ") found his way once more to the cliffs, and falling in with some of the supernumerary coast guard force, who had been brought thither for the express purpose of taking him flagrante ddicto, quoth he, " You may go home again now boys, if you mind to, I won't keep 'ee here no longer." The said spotsman was not, however, always so fortunate. On one occasion he was shot by one of his own people. This was by a mistake, of course. He had come upon him suddenly in the dark and failed to immediately respond to the challenge, whereupon the other fired at what he supposed to be one of "the enemy." It resulted only in the loss of a thumb. They seem to have managed things in a very comfortable way in those times. Seldom any punishment is mentioned upon detection saving the com- pulsory loss of the goods. Four men were once thus caught by the captain of a revenue cutter, with their boat full of tubs of contraband spirit One of the men cried so bitterly, imploring the Captain not to rob him of what he had paid for, begging him to restore some of it for the sake of his wife and 48 Mullyon. children, that the Captain took pity on him, and allowed him to carry off three of the kegs. When they reached the shore, and others were consulting how they might best divide the three tubs between four men, " Stop a bit/' says Joe, " 'Tis none of it yours, my dears, 'tis all mine. You didn't cry none any ef 'ee. The captain gave it to me for crying." Another time, a boat's crew of four were ordered along-side the cutter, in Mount's Bay, and the captain discovering they had contraband with them, remarked to the younger of the party, " You, my fine fellow, will do for a man-of-war, and you three," addressing the others, "-will go to prison." "All right, sir," replied one of them, " I've been in more French prisons than you've been in parish churches, I'll wage." I have alluded to the fact that wrecking and smuggling were all but universal among the inhabitants. The writer in Meliora would have us believe that the former was practised by everybody, without exception. " It is related," he says, " that a Cornish clergyman found himself one Sunday morning being suddenly deserted by his congregation in the middle of his sermon, and that on ascertaining the cause to be news of a wreck, he cried out to his retreating flock to give him time only to divest himself of his robes that they might all start fair." And as to smuggling, another writer in Household Words observes, so universal in some parts was the interest in this lawless pursuit, that if the parson did not always hold the lantern on the rock during a landing, he was about the only man in the parish who had not some share in almost every venture. But it is possible to paint the blackest too black. And as to the Preventive Service, at the time of which I write, when the whole force from Porthleven to the Lizard consisted of one officer and six men what was it probable so small a force could effect against the mass of the population ? Sometimes the preventive men were themselves prevented now by the hospitality of the natives and many is the " run " that has been made while officer and men have been busily engaged in discussing the good cheer of which they had been judiciously invited to partake and now by the application of a persuasive force such as that which happened to an old and well-known coastguard's man Smuggling. 49 who was gently bound hands and feet together and carefully deposited in a ditch while the smugglers' men were engaged in their lawless proceedings. There is a strange wild spot near Mullyon Cove called the Vro Sand, at which place the coastguard officer then stationed at Mullyon Lieutenant Drew had reason to suppose that on a certain night an attempt would be made to ensure a successful " run." The weather was favourable as far as wind and sea were concerned, and mother moon being out of sight, the night was as dark as pitch. As the Lieutenant, accompanied by one of his men, was carefully watching the suspected spot, he suddenly came upon a party of smug- glers awaiting the arrival of their vessel. On the sudden approach of the coastguard the men dispersed into the darkness, discharging a random shot or two by way of a welcome. Escaping this danger (although one shot came so unpleasantly close as to whistle past between Lieutenant Drew and the coastguards-man at his side), they descended the cliff, and after a short inspection of the sandy cove, discovered a rope suspiciously attached to a rock and running out into the sea. If there had been any doubt before of the meaning of the armed party on the top of the cliff, there could be none now. The preventive men naturally began to haul in the line, and soon appeared a tub of spirits attached, then another and another until no less than a hundred were drawn to shore. And now rockets were sent up and pistols fired to summon the remainder of the coastguard force, and answering shots soon announced the arrival of the several patrols One of the smuggling party had not gone off with the others, and this was none other than " the spotsman," a well-known inhabitant of Mullyon, and who had made many a successful voyage before. Perhaps he had concluded, like Will Watch, that this should be his last, not doubting but that his usual luck would attend him ; but he was to be disappointed as well as to have his courage severely tried. He narrowly escaped detection as the Lieutenant and his man were on their way down the cliff, for the coastguards-man's little dog had found him and would have, doubtless, given tongue, and told a tale, if he had not quickly and judiciously caressed the creature. And now, with the momentary chance of being discovered, he had the mortification of watching G 50 Mullyon. from behind a rock the capture of his cargo for which he had risked so much the hauling in of keg after keg, the assembling of the coastguard force, and, whilst he dared not stir one foot himself nor utter a sound, of hearing their congratulations one to another, and possibly of seeing the chalking of the broad arrow on each of his cherished tubs. Soon after, however, he managed to elude observation, crept up the cliff and proceeded on his homeward way " Unfriended, melancholy, slow." Some of his companions, however, previous to the discovery, had managed to secure a portion of the goods. Crowds had collected on the following morn- ing on the top of the cliff to witness the labour of hauling up the tubs ; and a solemn silence reigned among them while the coastguards-men, as if perform- ing mystic ceremonies, struggled to and fro and up the rocky gorge bending beneath the weight of their spirituous burdens. Among the spectators the smuggling interest was well represented they had come to take " a last, a long, and sad farewell " of the precious kegs so shortly to be consigned to the dark recesses of the Gweek Custom House. It must have been a time of brisk trade for Mullyon when two landings were attempted in the course of a fortnight. At the first of these, as we have seen, the smugglers fled on the approach of the coastguard, leaving their goods to their fate ; and, at the next, two preventive men finding themselves in the midst of a run, seized each man another with his burden, while a third smug- gler drop'd his load and fled. So that the capture this time consisted of two men and six tubs. A former chief boatman of coastguard, once stationed at Mullyon, Mr. Williams, has informed me that he has had as many as 800 tubs of contraband spirit in his charge at one time. * At the last known attempt to effect a landing on the Mullyon coast Lieut. Drew and a party of his men were on guard one night on Angrowse cliffs, when they came upon a party who had settled themselves snugly behind a hedge. No satisfactory replies being forthcoming to the challenge of the coastguard, * For an interesting account of the capture of a single smuggler by this same Coastguards-man, see Hon. Grantley Berkely's " My Life and Recollections," Vol. i. The smuggler was engaged at about 2 o'clock, on a moonless tho' starlight night, in hauling up some sunken kegs, about three miles from shore, when this officer, by steadily sweeping the bay with his glass, and assisted by the reflection on the water of one bright star only, eventually " spotted " his man, and then quietly awaited his return to the beach. Wrecking. 5 1 an order was given to search their persons, and as the search was proceeding the whole country round was suddenly illuminated with one great flash of light. The expected vessel had received her warning and made off, having dropt her cargo overboard. This was afterwards " crept " up by the Mullyon preventive men, assisted by the crew of the Penzance Revenue Cutters. So ended the last recorded smuggling transaction between Mullyon and the French port of Roscoff. Many of the houses in Mullyon have still, though they have long ceased to be used for such purposes, cupboards with false backs and bottoms, secret shafts alongside of the staircases, small chambers in the thicknesses of the walls, or wells underneath a double flooring, wherein contraband goods were wont to be deposited. Of " wrecking" proper, by which I mean alluring a ship to her destruction, many is the day since such villany has been resorted to, but of the .more moderate form of wrecking that of appropriating to oneself whatsoever bit of flotsam or jetsam one comes across, or even of stripping off portions of a partially broken hull, this is not so rare now when an opportunity offers itself. " A century ago," says Cyrus Redding, " in the superstitious days when, according to vulgar belief, the clergyman of the parish had his familiar spirit, the plunder of wrecks might have been made a charge with greater justice, but the very rumour now that any man had been guilty of such atrocity, would expel him from society in Cornwall, and from the county itself." Our shores are now too well guarded for much plunder of this nature to be committed, as I have heard it said more than once " The coastguards-men and the police are the only persons who stand a chance of picking up anything worth anything after a wreck." That a wreck, especially if no lives be lost, is still looked upon as a sort of God- send to the neighbourhood, is evident from the amount of envy and jealousy which shews itself in those who do not happen to reside in the immediate vicinity, as Pope sings : " Then full against his Cornish lands they roar, And two rich shipwrecks bless the lucky shore." When the "North Britain" went on shore near the Mount, in Dec., 1868, I heard it remarked in Mullyon " Pity she went so far into the bay. What do 5 2 Mullyon. they in to Penzance want of a wreck in there? If she'd come in here she might have done some good ! " Feelings of this nature are not, I apprehend, confined to these parts. There is, after all, a good deal of human nature, as Artemus Ward remarks, about mankind in general. Instances, however, are not wanting to shew that while the dwellers on our coasts would not scruple to appropriate portions of wrecked timber and the like, no kind of dishonesty is felt or intended. After the wreck of the Jonkheer, detailed below, some fishermen Jackson and Jones, from Penberth Cove, on the opposite side of the bay, while employed in fishing up blocks of tin which had formed part of the ship's cargo, found, among other things, a small box containing coins and bank notes, to the value of ^1,000 and upwards. They immediately brought the box and its contents ashore and handed them up to the authorities, who, I must say, did not display a great amount of wisdom on the circumstance. The men claimed, and afterwards received, their salvage portion of course, but from the time they brought the box on shore, though not before, as long as they were engaged in their work at the sunken wreck, they were accompanied by a coastguards-man whenever they went afloat were placed under strict supervision as a reward for their honesty ! Such shortsighted policy is not calculated to render the coastguard popular among those who still look upon them with a certain amount of dislike. Such a course of action is no incentive to honest dealing, but rather the contrary. WRECKS. LIST OF WRECKS. Date. NAMES. Locality. Drowned. 4) O *j! 1803 Tulv. No account of wreck i 1809 Jan No account of wreck 8 1809. Nov.... Barque, "Cunningham" Polurrian 1 8 1 o. Aug No account of wreck 10 1 8 1 < Tulv Dutch Barque The Vraddan... 1817. Jan. 7 18^2 Aue . French brig, " L'Hammican " ... Barque Gunwalloe The Rill 13 3 1833. Feb.... Smack '..... Vounder Nean. 1833. Oct Smack Vraddan 1838. June 20 " Neapolitan " Carrag luz 15 ii 1839. Apr. 22 18^9. Aug... " Penrice Castle " and 2 others Brigantine Polurrian Kynance 5 1840. June... Smack The Vraddan... i i 54 Mullyon. Date. NAMES. Locality. Drowned. 6 i 6 13 5 4 24 3 21 15 8 pf s 1847. Oct. 1 1 1858. Sept. 1 7 1858. Sept.22 1862. Jan. ii 1862. Jan. 22 1862. Dec. 12 1 865. April 1 7 1867. Jan. 6 1867. Mar. 26 1867. Oct. 22 1868. Jan. 21 1869. Feb. 9 1 869. April 2 2 1871. Jan. 27 1873. Mar. i 1874. Dec. 8 Finland barque, " Iris " Poljew I I I I 3 *5 4 7 "Glencoe" and " Mary" Polurrian "Chester" At sea "Dollard" The Rill "Padre" Poljew " Arwenack " Deserted " John Mc'Intyre " Gue Greze "Margaret," "Cherub," and) "Ebbw Vale" J Meres Ledges.. Men y Grib . . . Polurrian "Jonkheer" "Achilles" " Maria Louisa " Mullyon Island. (?) Mullyon Isld. Predannack Hd. Deserted " Calcutta's " boat "Remedy" French brig,"Berthe & Leontine" "Boyne" Meres Ledges... Church Cove . . . "Diana" It will be remarked that out of all these not one vessel that ever touched the shore got off again, save the John Mc"Intyre, and she was of set purpose thrust in, and was floated again under very favourably exceptional circum- stances. Wrecks. 55 In July, 1815, a Dutch barque, laden with a cargo of tea, came in during a thick fog so near the cliffs that the crew deserted her, most of them leaving in the ship's boat, and so came on shore. The vessel, striking on the Vraddan, went to pieces, and the shores were soon covered with the scattered cargo. Hence, she is commonly spoken of as "the tea wreck." 1832. A barque came on shore between Kynance Cove and the Rill, laden with coffee. So known as " the coffee wreck." 1833. February. A smack becoming embayed, the captain beached her to save life. She came on shore at Forth Pyg, under Vounder Nean, stood nearly whole for several days, and then broke up. 1833. October. A smack belonging to Padstow, laden with coals, "The Bellamy," struck on the Vraddan, and then came on to the Vro Cove. There she lay during several tides, while unsuccessful attempts were made to get her off. She went to pieces. All hands saved. 1838. June 30. A Neapolitan barque, of slender build, of about 300 tons, with a cargo of salt, came in during the night under Carrag Luz, on the southern part of Polurrian. The wind had been blowing a strong gale from S.S.W., and a thick fog had prevailed all the preceding day, and through the night. The first sign of a wreck was the discovery, in the early morning, by a couple of our villagers, that Polurrian Cove was one mass of wreckage. All on board had perished, and this is therefore known among us as " the dead wreck." All hands (supposed to have been 15) drowned, n of these were buried in Mullyon churchyard. 1839. April 22. Three small vessels were discovered under Henscath, or between that and the Flag-staff. The Penrice Castle, of Port Talbot, laden with coal, Capt. Macnamara, and two other brigantines, laden with slate. One of these last ran into the Penrice Castle, which vessel came ashore at Pedn y Ke, the other under Carrag Luz, and the third struck on the rocks at Polglas, under Merres Hedge. All three soon went to pieces. No lives lost. 1839. August i. With an E.S.E. breeze a brigantine was lying to just inside the Lizard Head, when the wind suddenly veered round to S.W., and brought 56 Mullyon. her on shore at Par-an-heol, between Kynance Cove and the Rill. Sup- posed cargo, salt. All hands, 5, drowned. 1840. (?) June. A smack struck on the Vraddan, and went down. One man washed off and drowned, and on September 1 7, the body of a man was found at Pedny K.6, in a very decomposed state ; had been in the water many weeks. 1847. October IT. A Finland barque, the Ins, Captain Kyllen, laden with wheat, came in during the night on Kinsale Rock, Poljew. Part of the crew climbed up the rock by sticking their knives into the interstices, there re- maining till the tide had ebbed sufficiently to allow them to gain terra firma. The vessel shortly broke up 6 drowned, and 6 saved. 1857. August. Richard George and Frank Harris, two Mullyon fishermen, were out looking after their crab-pots, off Pigeon Hugo, in foggy weather, when they observed a very large vessel, with studding sails set, running in before a light S.S.W. wind, right in the direction of the cliffs. She passed their boat, and shortly came to a dead stand, a little further in. Henry George and Samuel Kitchens, two other Mullyon fishermen, were, at this time, in their crabbing-boat, at moorings, just off Vellan Head, and, hearing a gun fire, made for the spot whence the report proceeded, soon falling in with the vessel. S. Kitchens was taken on board. She proved to be If. M.S. Exmouth. " Where are we ? " demanded the Captain. Kitchens told him, and advised what was to be done, but then, there she lay, with Pengersick point on her starboard bow, for a couple of hours, bumping on the sand. Auxiliary steam having been meanwhile got up, Kitchens piloted the ship out of danger, and then, having received a certificate of the service he had rendered, left again in his own boat. Three months elapsed, and as he had heard of nothing in the shape of re- muneration, he thought it would be as well to remind the authorities of the circumstance; so, after consultation with the coastguard-officer, he had to appear before the Inspecting-Commander, to relate his story and produce his certificate. Eventually he received $ (!) as a reward for having extricated one of Her Majesty's ships of war from a position of very great danger. The " Glencoe " and the " Mary." 5 7 She left her anchor and 1 5 fathoms of chain behind her, together with a portion of her false keel and copper sheathing. So close indeed had she lain to the cliff that any one of the crew might have jumped off her spanker boom on to the rocks. WRECKS OF THE "GLENCOE" AND THE "MARY." A number of wind-bound vessels were lying at anchor in Mullyon Roads on 1 7th September, 1858, when the wind, which had been for some time easterly, suddenly shifted and soon blew a gale on to the land. Many of these vessels hardly escaped being embayed, but all save two manged to weather the Lizard. One of these, a brig, named the " Glencoe," of Whitby, was observed by the coastguard and others on the cliffs, about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, to be dragging her anchor, and before long she was stranded amid the breakers on Polurrian sands ; and as wave after wave broke clean over her, the hull being almost completely enveloped in the surf, the crew betook themselves to the rigging. The Rocket Apparatus for the establishment of a communication between a stranded vessel and the shore was at that time unknown at Mullyon, and in this emergency it occurred to Lieut. Drew, of the coastguard, that it might be possible to fire a light fishing-line across to the wreck by means of an ordinary signal rocket ; but the attempt was unsuccessful, by reason of the distance of the vessel from the shore. The coastguard's boat was then sent for by land with the idea that in her it might be possible, later in the afternoon, to reach the vessel, as from the position in which she was lying, she acted as a kind of breakwater ; moreover, the tide was on the ebb, and there was every hope of rescuing the crew if the vessel held together long enough. In the dusk of the evening it was discovered that the other vessel was gradually nearing the cliff, on the northern side of the sandy beach. The majority of the spectators now made a rush in the direction of this vessel, and the shrieks from the crew of the brig, who fancied themselves thus deserted, were heard above the storm. It was first thought when this vessel, the "Mary," of Bridgwater, struck the rocks on Polbream Point, that she was deserted, as no one could be seen on board. She had parted her chain cable near the anchor, and came in dragging the remaining chain along the bottom. Soon H 58 Mullyon. after she struck, the men emerged from below, and as she was nearer the low cliff than the Glencoe was to the shore, a line was, after one unsuccessful effort, thrown across her by means of a signal-rocket. A larger rope was then attached and was being haul'd out, when the shore end slipped, and would have escaped altogether had not a Mullyon man, John Mundy, dashed into the waves at the risk of his life and recovered it. A temporary sling of rope was then constructed by Mr. Williams, chief boatman, coastguard, and in it one of the crew was safely hauled on shore ; a second man, the captain, was next brought in; but the third, a large, heavily-built man, when about half way between the vessel and the cliff, lost his hold on the ropes and fell. In falling, however, his feet became entangled in the sling, which presently so twisted itself around the warp, that it could not be moved either backwards or forwards ; and there the poor fellow hung suspended by one leg, now hoisted high, mid-air, now dipped into the foaming water beneath, as the vessel rolled from one side to another and alternately tightened and slackened the warp. " Haul the man in ! " cries Mr. Williams, " Haul ! you can but pull the life out of him ; he'll be killed there if he isn't dead already " ; and with a long pull and a strong pull of many hands, they haul'd the poor body in battered and bruised to be sure, but still alive ! With every care, he was tenderly carried to the Old Inn, where, happily, it was found that no bones were broken. He had, most fortunately, not struck the rocks in either of his rapid descents. There were no others left on board but one poor boy, whom the crew had in vain tried to persuade to precede them. As this last came in, he was to be descried in the dim twilight still clinging to one of the masts. Another sling was quickly rigged up and sent out to him, but he still refused, from fright, doubtless, to move ; then with a sudden crash and a swirl the masts fell over, the vessel broke up, and the poor lad, calling piteously on his mother, was en- gulphed amid the roar of the waters. His body was afterwards recovered and buried in Mullyon churchyard, Sept. 2oth. The crew did not know his name or place of abode, he had only joined them a week before at Bridgwater, and went by the name of Frederick. All this time the poor fellows on board the Gkncoe were still in her rigging, doubtful whether they should escape with their lives ; while the sea had been The " Glencoe " and the " Mary." 59 breaking over them for hours, and there seemed no prospect of relief. The vessel had lifted in a little towards the northern part of the beach, and, one signal rocket remaining, it was fired just about the time of low water, but this also fell short. The crew then supposing the tide had turned, and fearing the vessel would break up with its return, determined upon a desperate effort. One of them, with a line lashed round him, jumped overboard in the hopes of taking it on shore. They had taken the precaution to have a second line attached to him, so that in case of failure, they might haul him on board again ; but the brave fellow, by dint of great energy and determination, ap- proached the beach, while the men there formed a chain of hands, and venturing out into the surf, secured him and his line, just as he was becoming entangled in the wreckage of the other vessel. Communication being thus established, all the crew came on shore in safety, though sadly benumbed and exhausted by their eight hours exposure to wind and waves, between 1 2 and i at night. Part of the cargo of coal was saved ; the damaged hull remained on the beach for some time, and gradually broke, or was broken, up. FOUNDERING OF THE " CHESTER." On the night of the 22nd of the same month, two coastguard men Cotton and Sterling observed a boat, with four hands on board, making in for Mullyon Cove. Knowing the danger the boat would be exposed to in the heavy surf that was then breaking on the beach, they beckoned them off the shore, and caused them to understand that they were to wait for a signal from them to attempt a landing. The rule with us is to wait outside the surf until we see " the third big wave " break on Treguin (a rock on the northern point of Mullyon island,) and then " to pull for dear life" and come in on the back of the breaker ; and, so these poor fellows, following the sig- nalled instructions of the coastguard, came in. As they jumped on to the shingle " That's all right " cried one of them. We'll hope he meant the same as two of his comrades, who fell on their knees and returned their silent thanks to the Almighty for their deliverance. They reported that their vessel, a schooner, called the Chester, Capt. F. Miners, of Plymouth, had been caught 60 Mullyon. by the storm in the bay, and having carried away her canvas, had become un- manageable. That she had foundered on the Boa Shoal, a sand-bank to the southward of Mullyon island, and that they had only time to escape in their boat when they saw the vessel go down. On the Saturday following, sails, spars, rigging, &c., were found floating in a large mass, and were warped on shore. WRECK OF THE "BOLLARD." On the nth January, 1862, at 7.30 a.m., the Dutch brig the Dollard, laden with wheat, from Trieste for Falmouth, struck on the cliffs near The Rill, at a spot called by fishermen " The Pound." One of the crew saved himself by jumping on to a rock and clambering the cliff, whence he made his way to Kynance Farm. The captain, his son, and four seamen perished, and the vessel went to pieces in ten minutes. Near the place where she struck is a a cave or " ogo," the access to which is so low that it rarely opens sufficiently to allow the passage of a boat. But about a month after this wreck, some fishermen, in very still weather, effected an entrance into the cave, the bottom of which is always filled with water, and there they found portions of the masts and spars of the unfortunate Dollard, which had been knocking about in this subterranean chaldron ever since she broke up. Only one of the bodies of the six drowned men was recovered, and this was buried in Mullyon churchyard. WRECK OF THE " PADRE." On the 22nd January, 1862, the Austrian barque Padre, 400 tons, Captain Andrea Bogdanovich, with a cargo of wheat, from Trieste, in a gale from S.S.W. , was blown on to the rocks at Poljew, at 6.30 a.m. The captain, his bride, an infant, and 10 of the crew perished, and the vessel went to pieces immediately. Four men, Italians, were saved. They first reached Kinsale Rock. Thence two men were rescued by Goldsack, a coastguard's-man, allowing him- self to be lowered over cliff by a rope, and so securing his men ; another was caught by another coastguard's-man, by means of a boat hook ; and the fourth was saved by Henry George, a Mullyon fisherman. Had they remained on Kinsale Rock until the tide had ebbed, they might all have walked on shore ; The " Padre." 61 but of this, they could not possibly have been aware. Goldsack and George received the Humane Society's medal for their heroic conduct. 13 persons were drowned at this wreck, and the body of the child only was recovered and buried in Mullyon. On the day of the sale of the timber, &c. , from the wreck of the Padre, the whole of Poljew beach was thickly lined with persons of all classes, who had assembled, either as intending purchasers at, or witnesses of the sale. Sud denly, at about half flood, and without any kind of warning, a huge tidal wave came sweeping up the length and breadth of the Cove, carrying all before it, masts, spars, piles of broken timber, stores and other portions of the wreck, and most of the people as well. A horse and cart were capsized and drawn along for some distance, and two men found themselves transported up as far as the bridge. No further damage was done beyond the numerous wettings and the bruises that accrued to some of the less fortunate ones. One old lady was, however, taken out seaward, but was happily arrested by a mass of wreckage and brought safely ashore again on the return wave. WRECK OF THE "ARWENACK." On Friday, i2th December, 1862, the Arwenack, of Truro, with a cargo of copper-ore from Devoran, for South Wales, lost her sails in Mount's Bay during a gale from S.S.W. The men, five 'in number, taking to the boat, were cap- sized and drowned off Polurrian. This occurred during the night. The vessel herself was washed in to Gunwalloe Cove, where she broke up. Her sails, &c., were brought in to Mullyon Cove on the following Sunday morning. 5 hands drowned, i buried in Mullyon churchyard. ROCKET APPARATUS. After the wreck of the Padre, mention was made on the back of the Coast guard Casualty Report to the Board of Trade, of the great need of rocket- apparatus for this station, and subsequent events have shewn, not only how great was the need, but also how very great has been the value of that simple invention. Lord, then Mr. Robartes, on hearing of the report, sent his steward to make enquiries whether a lifeboat would not prove equally bene- ficial ; but the reply returned from the parish then was, that " a lifeboat would 62 Mullyon. be useless, unless the rocks at the entrance of the Cove were cleared out." A Mansbury's rocket apparatus, with its car, was therefore sent to Mullyon station in the year 1862, and it has since been the means of saving at least 30 lives. THE "JOHN MC'lNTYRE." On the i yth April, 1865, ti\z John Mc'Intyre, a large screw steamer, an iron boat, bound for S. Wales, struck, in a fog, slightly, as it was thought, on a rock off the Lizard, and the captain not apprehending danger, did not wait to over- haul. It was soon evident, however, that she had sprung a considerable leak, as a quantity of water had found its way into her in a very short time. The captain, knowing the coast, then determined to beach his vessel on one of the sandy coves under Mullyon, but before he could execute his idea, the water was gaining upon her so rapidly, that he was compelled, although the weather was far from foul, to act promptly ; he, with a boldness which deserved success, therefore turned her, at full speed, into the narrow cleft in the cliffs at Gue Greze. As she rushed in and partly up the little beach, she split a rock asunder as if it had been clay, and there she lay comfortably " shored up." Some weeks elapsed before the attempts to float her again were successful, during which time the weather, fortunately, continued fair, and the wind off shore, and eventually, partly by stopping the leak with bags full of clay, and partly with empty tar barrels, the water being pumped out of her, she was again brought to float, and in that state was towed over the bay to Penzance, where her damages were temporarily patched previous to her going into dry dock elsewhere. All on board had, of course, been landed in safety when she first came in, and all articles of value were at the same time secured. WRECKS OF THE " CHERUB," THE " MARGARET," AND THE " EBBW VALE." The storm which visited Mount's Bay on the night of Friday, 4th January, 1867, and throughout the following day, was one of the severest which had been experienced on this coast for a number of years. It commenced by blowing hard from the eastward, and so prevented a large number of coasting vessels from weathering the Lizard. These, as is commonly the case under The " Cherub " and the " Margaret." 63 such circumstances, had come to anchor in Mullyon roads, the only anchorage that is at all safe in the neighbourhood, but at the same time, one which is always to be used with caution, as the wind often makes a sudden shift to S. or S.W., and thereby renders the position of such vessels one of imminent peril. This was the case on the evening of the 5th January, and towards mid- night, it was blowing a whole gale from S.W. Many of the vessels had weighed or slipped their anchors, and got out of the bay ; but two of them, the Cherub, of Swansea, and the Margaret, of Teignmouth, in an attempt to escape, had come into collision, one man, George Mudge, belonging to the Margaret, getting on board the Cherub at the time. The Margaret again dropped anchor, and those on board the Cherub finding her unmanageable, and seeing she must be driven in against the cliffs, took to their boat, and by good fortune, being carried in on the top of a breaker to the sandy beach at Polurrian, and jumping out just as she took ground, landed themselves without a bruise. They then groped their way about for some time, and at last descried lights in the cottage windows at La Frowder, whence they were accompanied by some of the fishermen to Church Town. Daybreak on the following morning Sunday, the Festival of the Epiphany discovered the shore and base of the cliffs strewn for miles with debris of wreckage, but five vessels were still in the roads, all anchored within a mile of the land, and therefore still in danger. The Cherub had, of course, disap- peared, having broken up during the night. There was no lifeboat at Mullyon then, so messengers were sent off to Porthleven, and the " Agar Robartes " was got ready, and being drawn by six powerful horses, passed through the streets of Helston just about the time that people were going to church. A large number of Helston folk, hitherto ignorant of the scene on the coast, followed the lifeboat, meanwhile, hundreds of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Mullyon had assembled on the cliffs. It was a glorious morning, the sun was shining in all his brightness, and a light balmy breeze was coming in from the westward, but there was a tre- mendous sea still running, the effect of the long continued storm. And there was the Margaret, rolling and pitching heavily, right under Angrowse cliffs, and within a cable's length of them, with her four remaining hands on board. 64 Mullyon. Would the lifeboat arrive before she met her fate, for sooner or later, smashed she must be, as all on shore foresaw ? Her anchor was dragging, and the tide was on the ebb. The coastguards-men, with the rocket apparatus, had been on the ground since 7.30 in the morning, but at that time the vessel was out of reach of the rocket line. Several rockets had been fired, but all failed of falling over the vessel ; and some hours must elapse after the departure of the messenger, before the Porthleven lifeboat could be drawn over 12 miles of very hilly country to reach the spot. " Is there any gentleman who will go or send for the Lizard Lifeboat ?" asked the chief boatman of the coastguard (why she had not^been sent for in the first case, is incomprehensible, excepting on the ground that Porthleven being the coastguard station, it seemed natural to look there for assistance.) Hardly were the words spoken, when Mr. J. B. Kempthorne (the Vicar had told his churchwarden there would be no ser- vice held in Church that morning, and therefore he was free to go) started off on horseback " bare ridge," as he was, for the Lizard. " Tell them not to wait to pick up their crew," shouted the coastguard, " Send the boat at once, we will man her ; " for at that time there was no lifeboat at Cadgwith as now, and part of the Lizard boat's crew resided there. It should be mentioned, however, as a fact, reflecting very great credit on the hon. secretary and the crew of the Lizard lifeboat, that within forty minutes of their receiving Mr. Kempthorne's message, the boat with her coxswain and crew were in Mullyon Church Town, having come round more than six miles from their boat house, Still the doomed craft held on, heaving and pitching more heavily than ever, as the tide began to run more swiftly. Why the poor men on board made no kind of effort to save themselves, seemed a mystery. They could easily have estab- lished a communication with those on shore ; a barrel, a spar, an oar, anything that would float with a light line attached, would have drifted in before the wind, to the spot where several persons were standing on a ledge of rocks below the cliff; but although all kinds of signs and gestures were made by these and others (Geo. Mudge, their old shipmate, among the number,) they contented them- selves by remaining with their arms folded over the bulwark of the vessel, as if, which seems incredible, unconscious of the danger they were in, or of the pro- bable fate that awaited them. They did make one attempt by throwing a ladder The " Margaret." 65 over-board, on which they essayed to come ashore, but finding it would not float them all, they clambered back into the vessel again, relying, it is sup- posed, for assistance, which could not yet be afforded them. None but a life- boat could possibly have lived in or worked her way out through the tremen- dous surf, and the anxiety of the assembled crowd was becoming intense, as eager eyes were cast now in direction of Poljew, now towards Polurrian in search of the expected aid. It could not last like this very much longer, the water under the ship's bottom was getting shallower and shallower, and she still dragged. Ah ! it's all over with her ; after a larger wave than usual, down she went, bumping her stern post on the hard rock beneath her cable parted, she gave one plunge forward, heeled over and came broadside on, split open length- ways, and let out her cargo of coals, which blackened the water for a moment, broke in two a-midships and disappeared, all this, occupying scarcely more time than it has taken to detail it. Then appeared an indescribable mass of broken spars, masts, and cordage, being tumbled about in the waves, and a piece of the stern with deck attached, and one man clinging to it. The other three were seen no more. This man crawled up to the uppermost part of this fragment of the wreck several times between the intervals of the breaking waves, but only to be hurled down again as each successive wave came on. So close was he to those who had collected under cliff, that amid the thundering of the sea, they could hear him calling on them to throw him a line. A line was thrown, and a rocket fired, but without success ; and to attempt to cross the boiling channel which separated them from him, would have been utter destruction. In the interval, between two breakers, he let go his hold, ran along a short ridge of par- tially covered rock, and committed himself to the seething foam. It was evident that the force of the sea had already half beaten the life out of him, and that he could not swim. He struggled for a few moments amidst the broken spars and rigging that was washing about, and then sank ! " Alas ! poor fellow ! he's gone too !" murmured the crowd. But no ! There he is again, carried out by the undercurrent some 30 yards to the left, still struggling for dear life. He sinks again. " Dear soul ! how hard he fights ! He deserved to be saved too ! But he's gone now." No ; again ; not yet ! He now appears at 66 Mullyon. the other end of the channel, and to the right of the spot where he first was, still living, still battling with the sea and the broken fragments of the wreck. He sinks once more, " It's all over with him now," and many began to turn from the sickening scene, when yet once more he appears, being carried back again by the return wave to the very spot where he was at first. " Fire him a line !" and the rocket is once again off on its would-be merciful errand. " He's caught it !" and a hand is raised above the water, grasping a line, as much as to say " I have it ! Haul in ! ". But alas, it was not the line merely a bit of the vessel's cordage, which to him was useless. A huge wave followed, which lifted him head and shoulders out of water, when a recoil caught him and hurled him against the rocks. Two days after, a body was picked up about half a mile to the southward, with the skull broken in it was that of the ill- fated captain of the Margaret, who had to-day, so long and yet so vainly, battled with the unsparing elements. Of the other vessels, two, that were anchored further off from the shore, managed to get away during the morning ; but the fifth still lay at anchor, without a sign of life on board. It was concluded, as was afterwards proved to have been the case, that she had been deserted, her crew having been taken off by another vessel. She, too, broke her moorings, and coming ashore on . Sunday evening, was soon, though iron built, pounded to bits on the very spot where the Margaret was wrecked, and where the Cherub had broken up on the previous morning and night. She proved to have been the Ebbw Vale, of Swansea. Returning to Mullyon Church Town, we found there both the lifeboats that had been summoned. They had arrived only just in time to be told that they were too late. " Something must be done," was the general feeling, " to prevent the re- currence of so sad a catastrophe," and the expression of this feeling found vent in the public meeting that ensued. PUBLIC MEETING AT MULLYON. On Monday the i4th of January, 1867, a meeting of the parishioners of Mullyon, convened by the Vicar, was held, for the purpose of considering, in reference to the recent wrecks and loss of life in the immediate neighbour- Public Meeting. 67 hood, the necessity of endeavouring at once to secure a lifeboat to be stationed at Mullyon. In spite of the extreme severity of the weather, the meeting was well attended by the farmers and fishermen of the parish, and the following resolutions were unanimously carried as expressive of the opinion of those assembled. i. " That in consequence of the numerous wrecks that occur upon the immediate coast, it is incumbent upon the inhabitants of the neighbourhood to adopt some more efficient means than have hitherto been available for the preservation of life and property." 2. " That as Mullyon Roads is the only anchorage in Mount's Bay for vessels bound eastwards during the prevalence of easterly winds, yet as vessels so seeking shelter there are, nevertheless, liable to be placed in imminent danger by reason of a sudden shift of wind to the S. or S. W. (an occurrence far from infrequent), the best, if not the only, effectual relief in such cases would be by means of a lifeboat stationed at Mullyon." 3. "That it is equally desirable that a simultaneous effort be made, either by application to Government, or by other means, to form a harbour of refuge at Mullyon Cove by filling up what is termed " The Gap " the narrow shallow channel between the Island and the main or by placing a floating breakwater there." The following facts were elicited in the course of the meeting from the mouths of residents, coastguards, fishermen, and crabbers : That, had the stretch of water inside the island and between it and the cove been so pro- tected, there would then exist a harbour into which all the vessels recently wrecked in Mount's Bay might have run with safety. That it is hardly a rare occurrence for as many as two hundred sail to be seen at anchor in Mullyon Roads waiting for " a start," and that many of these are often caught by a sudden change of wind. That if so caught, as things are at present, there can be little hope for the lives of their crews. That on this part of the coast so violent are the storms, and so great their force, that a vessel commonly goes to pieces within ten minutes of her striking the rocks ; and but little, if anything, can be done for the crew when once she gets into the surf. That of all spots in Mount's Bay, Mullyon is that which most needs a lifeboat. 68 Mullyon. The meeting terminated by requesting the undernamed gentlemen to form a committee for the purpose of carrying into effect its resolutions : The Vicar, Rev. E. G. Harvey ; Mr. J. B. Kempthorne, Polhormon ; Mr. William Nicholas ; Mr. John Thomas, Predannack ; Mr. Joseph Thomas, Colroger ; Mr. Thomas Shepherd, Tremenhehe ; and Mr. Peter Williams, Angrowse. This committee immediately put themselves into communication with the Royal National Life Boat Institution ; the result of which was an offer on the part of the Institution of a lifeboat which had been subscribed for by the Wesleyan Methodists, in memory of the Rev. Daniel J. Draper, who unfortu- nately perished on the occasion of the foundering of the London, in the Bay of Biscay, in the year 1 866, and who was a native of Cornwall ; his friends being desirous that the lifeboat should be placed on that coast. Lord Robartes, with his accustomed liberality, speedily granted the ground for the boat house, and also promised pecuniary assistance for the needs of the branch. Nothing then remained but to build the house and await the arrival of the boat. " March 15, 1867. We have had between 400 and 500 vessels anchoring in our Roads during the last few days. All, I am glad to say, have got away safely ; but yesterday two large barques were in a very critical position for some hours. Had it come on to blow there would have been no chance of escape for them." WRECK OF THE " JONKHEER MEESTER VAN DE WALL." About ii o'clock, on the evening of 25th March, 1867, the Vicar was sitting alone in his dining room, reading, the other members of the family having retired to rest, and, little heeding the storm without, was deeply en- gaged with the contents of the book before him. Suddenly he started to his feet. He heard, or fancied that he heard, a prolonged shrieking wail, as of many voices. Immediately unfastening the window shutters, and throwing up the sash, he listened long and anxiously. The wind, which was blowing a gale, swept right in from the sea, and its howling among the trees, together with the thundering of the surf upon the shore, distant hardly more than half mile from the vicarage, were all that could be heard. No cry ; no blue light, The "Jonkheer." 69 nor signal of distress. The Vicar closed the window, and concluding that the sound he had heard was nothing but the wailing of the storm, he retired for the night. The following morning early he was aroused by tidings that a large vessel had gone ashore during the night, and that a number of persons had been drowned. The coastguards-man on watch had come up to the village about 3 o'clock, a.m., with the alarm that he had seen a large, barque dangerously near the cliffs ; so the rocket apparatus was at once got out and carried down to Poljew Cove (there was no life boat station at Mullyon then), on past Poljew towards Gunwalloe, but nothing was to be seen of any vessel. Meanwhile, some of the villagers had gone along the cliff tops between Polurrian and Poljew, and there they descried parts of a wreck; and, at length, clambering about the rocks under cliff, the sole survivor of the unfortunate vessel's com- pany, a Greek sailor. He was so bruised and benumbed, that at the moment, he could have given no very intelligible account of the wreck, even if the coast- guard could have understood the little English he was master of. Soon the stern of the vessel was found washed in between two ledges of rocks on the southern side of Poljew Cove, and near it the bodies of two females, with nothing but the remnants of their night dresses about them ; then the body of another female was discovered, and later in the day those of a sailor and an infant were picked up. These were all taken and laid in the tower of Mullyon Church to await a coroner's inquest. About 9 o'clock, the Greek sailor having had a dry suit of clothes provided him, and some refreshment given him, the Vicar went to see what he could learn from him concerning the ship and her cargo, &c. The man seemed but little inclined to be communicative, and his ordinary language, a mixture of Greek and Italian, was difficult to be interpreted. He said he had joined the ship at Batavia, but he did not know her name nor the name of the captain ! He had slightly injured his right arm in clambering up the cliff, but beyond a few bruises, was otherwise uninjured. He had on him a lady's gold watch and chain which was difficult to account for in the case of a common sailor like himself. There were five and twenty souls on board at the time of the yo Mullyon. wreck, and this was the third time that he had been wrecked, being the only one saved on each occasion. The vessel must have sailed in right against the cliffs between Poljew and Polurrian, striking her keel on Men y Grib rocks, having her back broken upon them, and then slipping out and subsiding in deeper water, with the exception of the stern portion, which was broken off and washed into Poljew. At the time she struck he said that he and two other sailors were forward on the jib-boom, all three sprang off it on to the face of the cliff, two being by the next wave sucked backed into the sea and drowned. He himself held on, managed to scale the cliff in the darkness, and then wandered about till he was found by the coast-guard and villagers. Of the women washed ashore one was the body of a large person, probably Dutch, and about fifty years of age, having nothing on at the time but two stockings, and these both on the left leg. This person proved afterwards to be S. W., of whom more anon. She was a passenger from Batavia, in charge of a gentleman on board. Another, aged about 23, dark hair and finely formed features, with but drawers and stockings on, a gold clasp ring, and a gold heart-shaped black enamelled locket enclosing miniature photograph of a young gentleman. She was found to be J. B., fiance'e of Herr M., of Utrecht, to whom she was shortly to be married. The third, a short, bright haired young woman, S. G., who passed on board for the Captain's wife. She had been confined on board about three weeks previously ; and the drowned infant was her child. It had on, when picked up, its little night-dress and cap, and a coral necklace. This was all the information that the sailor was able or willing to afford. Along the shores coffee in the berry was washing in in very large quantities, as the waves completed their destruction of the ship, and piles of sugar baskets tubular affairs, 6 feet long by two feet in diameter, composed of split bamboo, bound with cane, and lined with dry leaves were to be seen lying about at the waters edge in every direction. The inquest was held on Wednesday, at the Old Inn, by Mr. Roscorla, county coroner. The Greek sailor was examined through Giacomo Carlo Bilestreri, of Penzance, interpreter. He said, "my name is Georgio Buffani ; I was seaman on board the ship which belonged to Dordrecht. I joined the The " Jonkheer." 71 ship at Batavia, but I do not know the name of the ship, or the name of the Captain." On his being shewn, however, the official list of Dutch East India- men, he pointed to one built 1854," the Kosmopoliet, Captain Konig. "We sailed," said he, "from Batavia for Rotterdam on 25th November last, with a cargo of coffee, spice, and sugar, there was a quantity of tin also on board as ballast. The vessel's crew consisted of 20 men, all told, and there were 6 passengers, viz., 3 ladies, 2 gentlemen, and an English lad. Oft the African coast two of the sailors, Englishmen, died, and a third was left at St. Helena, sick. On Saturday last we were off Falmouth, which port we might have entered but did not,; on Monday, 6 a.m., we were abreast of the Lizard, wind, S.W. to S.S.W. We then came under the land in Mount's Bay, and were tacking about all day, but could not get out" [A vessel had been observed by the Mousehole pilots, on Monday afternoon, endeavouring to get off the eastern land, and about 4 o'clock was seen to ' miss stays ' more than once off Mullion Island. She had no signal flying, but it was thought unless she was ably manned she would have great difficulty in rounding the Lizard.] " We hoisted no signal When the vessel struck every one was on deck, and the Captain cried bitterly. In 20 minutes the vessel broke up. I was on the jib- boom, with two other sailors, and managed to save myself by jumping to the cliff, the others were caught by the sea," Jury returned verdict " Accidentally drowned." Just after the inquest, W. Broad, Esq., of Falmouth, Dutch Consul, arrived, bringing with him two Captains of Dutch East Indiamen, then lying at Falmouth. One of them asked at once, " Is it Klaas Lammerts' ?" On being told that the Kosmopoliet was the name of the wrecked ship, he said, " He did not believe it, for the Kosmopoliet would hardly be due for a fortnight It must be Klaas Lammerts* vessel, he thought." The Vicar, who had now joined them, exhibited a bit of flannel he had picked up, with " 6, K.L. ; " marked upon it- " Ah ! " said he, "It must be so ! It must be t\\& Jonkheer." But she had been returned Kosmo- poliet at the inquest, on the evidence of the Greek sailor, so there the matter rested. On the Friday following, however, when Mr Broad and this Dutch Captain again visited Mullyon, the first thing handed them was a parchment which had 7 2 Mullyon. been picked up, meanwhile, and this was none other than the Masonic diploma of Klaas von Lammerts. Here then was no room for doubt. The ship was identified as the Jonkheer Meestet -van de Wall van Puttershoek, Captain Klaas von Lammerts, 650 tons register, homeward bound from the East Indies, with a Cargo of sugar, coffee, spices, and some Banca tin. The value of the ship and cargo would be between ^40,000 and ^50,000. The week following the Vicar received a letter from Mrs. C. S., of Man- chester, stating that one of the passengers by the ill-fated Jonkheer was her sister, Mrs. S. W., 49 years of age, a widow, who had been in India as a governess for 20 years, that her husband had died 9 years ago, and that she was now returning to England, having accumulated a small fortune. From .St. Helena, where the vessel had touched on igth January, her sister had written to her informing her of her being on the passage home. Mrs. S. also made such inquiries as were natural under the circumstances, to which a reply was returned that her sister's remains had been, with others, decently interred in Mullyon churchyard. Ten more bodies were afterwards recovered and buried. Tons of coffee were collected and carted away to Penzance, only to prove a ruinous speculation to the purchasers, the salt water had rendered it quite useless. Messrs Jackson and Jones, of Penberth Cove, were engaged to re- cover the sunken tin, which they did by means of water glasses and long tongs, at a remuneration of ^15 per ton. It was found lying with the anchors, chain cables, &c., of the ship, in 6-fathom water. While this work was proceeding, Mr Nicholas, the Consulary agent, at Mullyon, called, one morning, on the Vicar, and asked his company to the Cove, to be present at the opening of a small box, seemingly containing treasure, which Messrs Jackson had fished up. It was a tin box, about a foot square, and contained valuables to the amount of ^1200 or ^1300. The Vicar made an inventory of the contents, a list of which is here given. CONTENTS OF BOX Bag 119 two and half guldens, 86 guldens, jo ten gulden notes, 3 twenty-five gulden notes, 3 Victoria sovereigns, 5 small pieces silver coin, 2 gold bracelets, 2 brooches, 3 pairs gold earrings, string of beads. The "JonMieer." 73 i two hundred gulden note, Java bank. i forty gulden note, Amsterdam bank. i seven thousand gulden bill of exchange, in the name Herr A. van D., Rotterdam bank. i seven thousand gulden bill of exchange, in the name S. W., Rotterdam bank. "A Will," by which S. W., leaves all her property to her sister, C. S. English new Testament, and pocket book. It contained Mrs. S. W.'s will and property. The discovery of this treasure having been mentioned in the newspapers, another claimant to it, besides Mrs. S., appears on the scene no less a person than Mrs. W.'s husband supposed to have been dead 9 years ! It appeared that he had separated from her before she went to India, and that he had mysteriously disappeared. Messrs Jackson and Jones received, as was their due, one third of this property ; and, after the law expenses had been paid by Mrs S., and Mrs. W.'s husband, as to the ownership of the remaining two thirds, there was not much left for either to enjoy. The sum of ^5 had been offered by Widow Klaas von Lammerts, of Rue de Plank, Dordrecht, for the recovery of her husband's body, but it was never identified among those washed in. Cane, bamboo, and wreckage continued to cover every sandy beach for a long time after the wreck. Coffee bags, laid down as mats, may be now seen on many a cottage lime- ash floor ; sugar baskets, split and fastened to stakes, to protect garden ground, may still be found in many parts of the parish, and this is about all that remains of the i\\-ia.tedfon&/ieer The almost unaccountable behaviour of this vessel, on the afternoon pre- vious to the wreck, caused grave suspicions in the minds of those on shore that there was mutiny or extreme disorder of some kind on board, but of this nothing certain could be ascertained. There is, also, a discrepancy in the accounts as to the time of the occur- rence of the wreck, which has never been solved satisfactorily. The coast- guard's-man arrived at Mullyon Churchtown about 3 o'clock, a.m., saying he had seen a large vessel in danger. That was when the tide had ebbed for four hours. When the villagers went down to the coast they found coffee, and walked over portions of the wreck, which was lying right up at high water J 74 Mtillyon. mark. The vessel, then, must have struck before or, at least about, the time of high water, and that was_ at eleven o'clock the previous evening. Was then, after all, the sound, which so startled the Vicar, the last despair- ing cry of the poor drowning wretches just as the vessel was breaking up? One saved, 24 drowned 15 buried in Mullyon Churchyard. The following letters shortly after appeared : TO THE EDITOR OF THE WESTERN MORNING NEWS. SIR, Upwards of 50 human lives have been lost during the past three months, through lack of a secure anchorage in Mount's Bay for embayed or distressed vessels. Property in ships and cargoes to the amount of many thousands (80,000 is probably within the mark) has also been sacrificed from the same cause, and in the same short time. Now, an expenditure of 15,000 would, I am credibly informed, render the Cove at Mullyon a safe harbourage at all states of tide for 20 or 30 vessels. If this be so, and still no provision be made against such awful shipwrecks as have occurred in Mount's Bay this winter, there will surely be great shortsightedness, to say the least of it, somewhere. Yours truly, Mullyon Vicarage, soth March, 1867. E. G. HARVEY. TO THE EDITOR OF THE WEST BRITON. SIR, It seems to be a question how many lives must be lost, and what number of vessels wrecked, before any steps are to be taken to provide a place of safety. It Is a very melancholy sight to witness so many human bodies cast on our shore, a prey to the birds and fishes, without an effort being made to prevent such occurrences. Possibly about 20,000 would be all that is required to fill up the gap between Mullyon island and the shore, and extend an arm to the west of the island, which, I venture to say, would be of more use in saving life and property, than the same amount expended any- where else in England for such a purpose. As for property saved from wrecks, I have been told it is not worth anything to the owners ; very often they are brought into debt, and I have every reason to believe it. The valuable cargo of coffee of the Dutch ship Jonkheer bids fair to bring its owners into debt. Look at the expensive management- -the coastguard, the customs, the police, and their helps are enough to make a wreck of any wreck. Mullyon, April isth, 1867. A. LAUNCH OF THE. MULLYON LIFEBOAT. Tuesday, the loth of September, 1867, was the occasion of great festivity at Penzance. There was the opening of the new Public Buildings, the launch of the Mullyon lifeboat, and a lifeboat regatta to follow. Upwards of 10,000 persons were present on the Western Esplanade to witness the launch. The hon. secretary, the committee, and crew had driven over in a four-horse omni- bus. After addresses, made by the Rev. E. Nye, the Methodist district chairman; Mr. Lewis, the secretary to the ' institution ; and others, the boat was formally handed over ; and bearing the name Daniel J. Draper, was at once launched, being welcomed and received by the other five lifeboats, the The Lifeboat. 75 crews tossing their oars and cheering lustily. On the i3th she was brought over from Penzance to her own station, and then exercised under command of Capt. J. R. Ward, R.N., one of the institution's inspectors. The Mullyon lifeboat was built in 1867, by Messrs. Forrett, of Limehou%e ; she is constructed of mahogany, and measures 33 feet in length, by 8 feet 6 inches beam, thus being, with the exception of the Falmouth boat, which is precisely the same size, the largest of the lifeboats on the Cornish coast. She rows 10 oars, and her draught of water is about 23 inches. She is self-righting, and her 6 escape valves admit of her clearing her deck of water almost instantaneously. The following is the inscription on a marble tablet in the gable of the boat house : THIS LIFEBOAT ESTABLISHMENT WAS ERECTED IN MEMORY OF THE LATE REV. DANIEL J.- DRAPER, WHO PERISHED FROM THE FOUNDERING OF THE STEAM SHIP " LONDON," IN. THE BAY OF BISCAY, ON THE IITH JANUARY, 1 866, AND WAS PRESENTED TO THE ROYAL NATIONAL LIFEBOAT INSTITUTION, BY WESLEYAN METHODISTS, THROUGH THE MEDIUM OF THE " METHODIST RECORDER " NEWSPAPER, CONDUCTED BY THE REV. LUKE WISEMAN AND MR. THOMAS SMITH, 1867- C. H. COOKE, ESQ., F.R.LB.A., HON. ARCHITECT. IMPROVEMENT OF THE COVE. About this time, extensive operations were carried on at Porthmellin, by way of widening the entrance and improving the beach as a launching and landing 76 Mullyon. place ; through the instrumentality of the Lifeboat Institution, a large quantity of obstructive rocks were blown up and removed from the former, while from the latter, the fresh-water stream which had hitherto denuded the shingle of sand, was diverted by means of an artificial water-course of stone erected for the purpose on the north side of the Cove. The result has been a success, not only as regards the lifeboat and her movements, but also as giving in- creased accommodation for fishing boats, and what is of even greater consequence, as securing greater safety to all whilst launching or beaching during rough weather. WRECK OF THE "ACHILLES." The lifeboat had occupied her allotted station for a little more than a month, when evidence only too palpable was afforded of the wisdom which dictated the selection of the coast of Mullyon as the scene of her labours. The London newspapers of 23rd October, 1867, contained the following para- graph : Mullyon, Tuesday, 22nd October, 3.30 a.m. " I have much gratification (says the Rev. E. G. Harvey) in reporting the first and successful service of the Daniel J. Draper. At 10 o'clock last night, during foul weather and a thick fog, the alarm was given that a vessel was in distress off Polarrian Cove. The lifeboat was thereupon promptly launched, and was, fortunately, the means of saving three of the men from the stranded vessel. The coastguard men, who had been the first to observe her, had, meanwhile, been able to save the remaining 15 men, by means of the rocket apparatus. The ship was the Achilles, of Glasgow, Capt. David Kinnear, bound from Miramichi to London, with a cargo of timber. Other vessels are reported to be in danger, so it is possible that the services of the lifeboat may again be called into requisition." Our coxswain offered to take out a warp to seaward, so as to prevent the ship being lifted further in on to the beach, but this was declined by the cap- tain. The following day, he was advised to throw overboard his deck cargo, but he contented himself with removing such valuables as he was able, together with sails, &c., and sent for tug steamers. He was told they would be useless unless he cleared his deck but probably he was a Scotchman. The tugs The " Maria Louisa." 77 came and tugged in vain, the vessel was immoveable, and there she lay partially embedded in the sand for weeks, as the wind continued for a long period to blow off shore, and the sea was comparatively calm. She gradually went to pieces, however, while the greater part of her cargo was secured and sold by auction on the spot. WRECK OF THE "MARIA LOUISA." The next catastrophe on my list is one which presents as great a contrast as may be. Tuesday, 2ist January, 1868. Once more a terribly wild and stormy night, followed by a morning as severe. A complete hurricane was blowing, only to be equalled by the terrific gale of 1865. The wind roaring as if it had never blown before, carried up with it flakes of sea foam far in land, and the sea itself was lashed into a scene of frightful grandeur the waves plunging against and leaping up the bold precipices of the cliffs, and the spray being carried well aloft whenever a submerged rock or point of land obstructed the progress of the furious element. To hold one's own to stand against the the force of the wind without support, was a sheer impossibility ; and on the cliff, if you had hold of a rock for shelter, it was all you could do to prevent your being blown away from that. In the midst of this howling storm, a smack of about 80 or 90 tons was discovered about a couple of miles N.W. of Mullyon Island. To have attempted to launch the lifeboat in such tremendous billows as were now thundering in at the Cove, and in the teeth of such a gale, would have been but folly ; but the rocket apparatus was, after great difficulty, brought down to the shore. The devoted little craft came driving along under close reefed mainsail and storm jib, half buried in the masses of> wave upon wave through which she was being impelled. A terrible sight to see a frail thing like this rushing on to inevitable destruction. No human form could be descried on board of her, yet on she came until she seemed to be driven half under water by some invisible power to her final goal. Three tremendous seas followed one upon the other with terrible fury, and there she struck, even while sinking, upon Treguin, a rock on the northern part of the island. In less than two minutes no remains of her were to be seen . Yet shortly after- wards, on the beach at Polurrian, were found a bit of stern piece with 78 Mv.llyon. "A., PADSTOW" painted upon it; a basket containing a Guernsey frock, and sundry bits of linen ; a blanket and a blue worsted stocking. These were the relics left to the owners the widows and orphans of the little company of the Maria Louisa of Padstow. All hands 3 drowned, 2 buried in Mullyon churchyard. THE " CALCUTTA'S " LIFEBOAT. On February 9th, 1869, at 9 o'clock a.m., during a gale from S.W., a ship's lifeboat, about 2 : 8 feet long, was discovered on the beach at Pedn y Ke> between Polurrian and Porthmellin, with her bows stove in, but otherwise un- injured ; there were several bags of clothing found with her, and a lifebuoy attached bearing the name Calcutta, London. The tidings which reached us during the few days following only partially solved the mysterious appear- ance of this boat. It appeared that on Sunday, the 7th, the Calcutta, a full-rigged iron ship of 2,000 tons, having on board some 250 miles of telegraph cable for the Persian Gulf, with 52 hands as crew, and 12 perons in charge of the cable; when about 150 miles S.W. of the Lizard, came in collision with the barque Emma, of Memel, bound from Cardiff for Barcelona, with 500 tons of coal on board. The Emma sank within three minutes of the collision, and her mate, the cook and two boys were hauled on board the Calcutta, the Cap- tain and six men were drowned, going down with the vessel. The Calcutta herself was also seriously damaged, and it was soon found that water was gaining upon them, spite of the steam pumps that were kept constantly at work. The Captain having headed her towards the western coast, held on his course as well as he could, her steering gear having become disabled, but ordered the boats to be got in readiness. The next day, the crew considering the vessel was in a sinking condition, demanded of the- Captain what he in- tended doing. He replied that he would hold on for a couple of hours longer, and then he would see what could be done. At 2 o'clock he called all aft, and three vessels being seen to leeward, some determined to put off to them in the boats. Fifteen men then got into one of the boats under command of the third mate, and another boat took 8 men more. This second boat came in on the shore between Penzance and Marazion the same night, about 10 o'clock, and the men landed, having no notion where they were. Those in the The " Calcutta." 79 first boat were picked up about 4 in the afternoon, just off the Wolf Rock, by a Greek vessel, the Crissophigi, and with the exception of two, who were drowned in the attempt to get on board the Greek ship, were landed that night at Falmouth. About two hours after, the lifeboat, with 21 hands on board, left the ship. Whilst she was being lowered, the mate was knocked into the ship's hold, where he lay as if dead. The last boat, which was the Cap- tain's gig, was then lowered with 13 hands, he insisting on doing this himself. The rope slipped out of his hands, and the boat throwing out her living cargo into the sea, was herself smashed against the side of the vessel, and thus 10 more were drowned, the Captain himself among the number. Eight hands only were now left on board, an insufficient number un- doubtedly to work the ship. They were taken off on the morning of the Qth, and landed at Falmouth. As a specimen of the work that is commonly performed by our Cornish lifeboats, I quote the following from the columns of the Western Morning News : The Rev. F. C. Jackson, Hon. Secretary of the Cadgwith lifeboat branch, thus describes the success of the Cadgwith lifeboat : He says " There was a terrible sea running on our beach, and the coxswain and crew were told that it was risking life to launch the boat in such a surf, yet they embarked and went out in the teeth of the storm. Before them lay, some seven or nine miles distant, this helpless and then unknown hulk, with inverted ensign flying. On nearing the wreck, so glad Avere the crew of the Calcutta to see our boat, and in it the prospect of escape, that they hailed with cheers her arrival. They needed no persuasion to induce them to quit the vessel, imprisoned as they had been without means of escape, should the ship founder as was momentarily anticipated by the crew. It was no easy matter to go alongside the Calcutta; bits of wire rigging were hanging all round her, which it was impossible to cut, had the boat been driven by the sea among it. I know not how the boat of the Terrible managed, but we must bear in mind that they did their work twenty-two hours after the lifeboat, during which time the weather had im- proved, and the ship had drifted twenty miles to the eastward. Besides, they had not that great moral difficulty to contend with, viz. : the fact of no help being near should any accident happen. There was no desire on the part of 8o Mullyon. the crew to save anything but life, and though some of those who quitted the Calcutta wished to bring off their luggage, our coxswain, not knowing how many men might crowd in, steadfastly refused, not wishing to hamper our boat in so heavy a sea, and so strong a gale. Neither would he allow any one to board the ship, though it was said by the saved that there was plenty of every- thing on board, if the crew would like to take it. The crew of the Western Commercial Traveller lifeboat has added another feather to that glorious cap of valour which belongs, of right and might, to those gallant men who, all round the coasts of England, do deeds of bravery and self-devotion under the kind and benevolent direction of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution." The Rev. P. Vyvyan Robinson, Hon. Secretary of the Lizard Lifeboat, writes : "Early on Tuesday morning, I was informed that a large ship was in distress six miles off the Lizard Lighthouse. There was some delay in getting things ready to launch, for the Lifeboat had to be brought from Polpeer to Church Cove, and the crew had to be collected from some distance When all was ready, I was told that the Cadgwith boat had been gone some time, but I decided to send out the boat, as from the great size of the vessel, it was probable that she might contain more persons than could be brought off by one boat, in one trip. The launch was easily affected about 9.30 a.m., and and we watched the course of the boat under sail through the heavy water with the naked eye, and with glasses, until through the deep haze, she and the vessel were lost to sight. I give you the details, therefore, from the coxswain's narrative. He said, " We steered S.E. by S. and soon met with a tremendous sea, two waves in succession broke over the boat, swamping us all, and only the drogue saved us. About five miles from land, our sailing being slow, from the drogue being out, we sighted the ship right ahead, and reached her about two hours and a half after leaving the shore. We went round her twice and shouted loudly, but there was no reply ; so thinking her abandoned, and ap- parently in a sinking state, we resolved to make for Falmouth Harbour. The sea was still very heavy, continually sweeping the boat, but she behaved most gallantly, and the drogue kept her straight. In about two hours of very smart sailing, we sighted land, which eventually proved to be Pendennis Castle. Soon after, we reached Gerrans Bay, and then tacked and reached the entrance The " Calcutta:' 81 of the Harbour. Here our sails became useless, and while we were vainly struggling to row in against the wind and tide, a tug came out and took us in. We landed at 8 p.m., and were most kindly cared for by Mr. Webber, the chairman of the Falmouth lifeboat.' One cannot but admire the energy, perseverance, skill, and endurance shewn by the crew, and the wonderful apti- tude of the boat for such perilous work. The men were out more than ten hours, frequently drenched by the sweeping waves, with no refreshment of any kind, and yet their confidence in the boat and themselves never wavered. Surely such men and such vessels will, under God, do anything that should be expected from mortal strength and skill.'/ Three steam tugs now put out from Falmouth in search of the Calcutta, and one of these, the Dandy, fell in with her and made an attempt to take her in tow, but her tow rope being of insufficient strength to bear the strain of its unwieldy burden, and in such a heavy sea, she was obliged to abandon her. H.M.S. Terrible, paddle-wheel steamer, had also been sent out in search of the Calcutta, but had overshot her while she continued to drift up channel. On the report of the Dandy as to her whereabouts, the Terrible again put out on the hunt after the derelict, and at length, on the morning of the loth, came upon her about 10 miles off the Eddystone. But derelict she was no longer. They found Glyn, the Plymouth pilot on board, though alone. The bold fellow had resolved to take charge of her as well as he could by himself, while his cutter returned to Plymouth with the tidings. The Terrible then, after much difficulty in clearing the wreck of her encumbering gear, took her in tow, and after encountering some danger at the entrance of the Sound, by reason of the loss of the Calcutta's rudder, at length anchored her inside the Breakwater. The value of the vessel with her cargo was estimated at ^250,000, and after she had been well overhauled, strong opinions were expressed on the course taken by the ship's company in leaving her ; although she was much damaged, there was no sufficient reason for abandoning the ship. But all this time, what has become of the 2 1 who left her in her lifeboat ? As no tidings of them came to hand, it was supposed that they had been taken on board some outward-bound vessel, and that they had deserted the lifeboat, particularly as her rowlocks shewed little signs of having been long used we K 82 Mullyon. should be sure to hear something of them in a few days. But days passing by and no tidings arriving, the opinion gained ground that few were the tidings that would ever be told. A month after (March 5th,) the body of a man, much mutilated, was found floating off Predannack head. Another month passed, and on the 8th of April, there was washed ashore at Polurrian, the body of a young man. his clothes and all about him sound, while the poor head, bereft of flesh and hair ; was completely bleached. The state of suspense in which the relatives of these poor fellows were all this time placed, was pitiable in the extreme ; and the Vicar was in almost daily receipt of letters revealing their heart-rending anxiety, their fearful doubt, their tenacious hope against hope. " Unless we obtain certain evidence of their loss, we cannot but cherish a hope of their safety." " I hope you will perse- vere in your endeavours to solve this sad mystery." " Did you ever know so large a number lost, or so many to be so long sanded." " Do you not think it remarkable that, while two of the crew of the gig had come ashore, no positive evidence of even one of the lifeboat has been found, though they were 21 to 10 in the gig." " We are still sanguine, tho' as time creeps on and we get no tidings, our hopes seem to decrease." " Anything that would lead to identification would set our minds at rest." were words that reached him. On the 1 4th of April, more than two months after the lifeboat had left her ship, some human remains, in an undescribable state, came into Forth Mellin- The .Vicar took some specimens of the rotting clothing, and found one portion marked " E.D." (He had been supplied previously with the list of the names of those who left the Calcutta in her lifeboat.) He communicated with the father of Evan Davis, who identified these relics as having belonged to his son- But the matter was not yet settled. The surviving mate declared that Evan Davis was lost out of the Captain's gig, and was not one of the company of the lifeboat. After much further correspondence, however, the Vicar received the following letter from Davis' father : " I have had information from two young men from this neighbourhood, who were among the last in the Calcutta. My son was seen by both leaving in the lifeboat with another from this neigh- bourhood. This settles for ever the fate of the 21." The Parson at a Wreck. 83 And nothing further has come to light concerning them. It is supposed that the boat must have capsized just outside, or that she struck on Mullyon Island, when all were probably drowned at once, then buried in the sand below for many weeks, when the sea began gradually to give up their remains. 21 drowned, 4 buried in Mullyon Churchyard. THE PARSON'S WORK AT A WRECK. When I have spoken to an inland friend of the labours that accrue to the Parson at and after a wreck, it has been often asked me, with some expression of surprise, "What can there be for you, particularly, to do on such an occasion?" The fact is that the Parson's work, at such a time is always anxious, often arduous, especially if he be the Hon. Secretary to a Lifeboat Branch, as is the case with the three most southerly situated clergymen in England. I need not here speak of his lifeboat work, nor need I but allude to the manner in which he will, by personal example and influence, exert himself at the actual time of a wreck ; but, and it is as well to draw attention to the fact, the relatives and friends of the shipwrecked mariner on these shores, know well that within some short distance of the spot there will be the resident parochial clergyman, a man of education, and one, presumably from his office, possessed of more than ordinary feelings of humanity and Christian charity. To him, therefore, they address their early enquiries concerning their loved ones ; to him they express their griefs or their hopes ; and, feeling they can do so with greater freedom than they could to the owners of the vessel,- the customs' officers, or the receivers of wreck, to him they look for sympathy and advice ; and he, on his part, can but feel it his duty, in every way, to sympathise with the survivors, to condole with the bereaved, and to use his best efforts in endeavouring to identify the remains, however mutilated, of every poor battered body that is washed on shore, or found afloat. This last, being no one's official work, he finds himself, as it were, morally compelled to do all he can ; to carefully inspect the body of every drowned person, and to take notes of clothing, hair, marks, or anything by means of which the deceased may be recognised. Thus it happens, as in the case of the 2 1 of the Calcutta's boat, that his voluntary labours are the means of ascertaining the fate of many whose actual end would otherwise have remained doubtful. 84 Mitllyon. Again, the parson, in the course of this correspondence, becomes often the depository of heartrending narratives, the details of which, probably, remain unknown to the officials, as, for instance, in the case of the Boyne, when he is begged by a widowed mother, who has, but recently, lost her husband at sea, to be particular in his watch for the remains of her son, her only son, who was her only earthly means of support ; or when he is requested to give all possible information to, and accompany in their daily search on the spot, the relatives of an unfortunate apprentice lad, who, although he had escaped drowning after falling overboard in a gale off the Cape of Good Hope, comes close home to meet his death. The parson has his reward, doubtless, as he pictures to himself, weeks, perhaps, after all traces of the ship and her cargo have disappeared, the reception, by the grieving relatives, of some such communication, from him- self, as the following which is a true copy " I had, my dear Madam, the melancholy satisfaction of committing to our hallowed ground, and with our accustomed rites, the remains of your poor drowned brother, having been enabled to identify the body by the symbols you described as marked on his left arm viz., a cross, anchor and heart, with the initials ' A.S.L.'" Or again, when the bodies are washed in soon after the striking of the ship, and they await the coroner's inquest, or their removal to a distance for burial, the parson, on a remote coast like this, from his necessarily frequent visits to the remains, seems, to himself at least, to have almost known them personally when alive, and their peaceful countenances are imprinted on his mental yision, for a long time afterwards, with a distinctness beyond that of many a well- known friend. But the frequent occurrence of these scenes do not increase his love for the sea. He comes, at times, to look upon that vast element, particularly when lashed into fury in a storm, as a huge and greedy monster, that will, if it have the opportunity, lick and lap you to destruction within its insatiable maw, or beat the life-breath out of you by hurling you against its iron barriers. WRECK OF THE "REMEDY." On the 22nd of April, 1869, tne schooner Remedy, 140 tons register, be- longing to Mr. C. Holt, of Whitstable, Kent, Captain J. Bonchar, with a cargo Fatal Accident to Fishing Boat. 85 of coals, from Cardiff for Caen, went ashore near Predannack Point. The master and crew saved themselves without assistance, and the vessel soon went to pieces. WRECK OF THE " BERTHE AND LEONTINE." On the 27th of January, 1871, the Captain of .Berthe and Leontine, French brig, being in a fog to the southward of Mullyon Island, fancied he was in danger of foundering, and, with his crew of five men, left his vessel in their boat, by which they reached Kynance Cove, and safely landed. The vessel was found lifted by the waves on to a ledge or terrace of rock, near Men te heul, where the receding tide left her in a perfectly upright position, with her masts, sails, and rigging all in perfect order. . She was soon cleared of all valuables, and then left to the mercy of the sea. The result need hardly be mentioned. FATAL ACCIDENT TO A MULLYON FISHING-BOAT. A sad accident, by which four lives were lost, occurred to a Mullyon fishing- boat, on Friday, April iQth, 1872. which, while it cast a deep gloom over the whole of the little community among whom the unfortunate deceased resided, and while it rendered desolate the home of one poor woman, already a widow, also deprived another mother of five children of their chief comforter and means of support. William Mundy, a man whose life had been spent in the fishery along this dangerous coast, and therefore an experienced boatman, together with two of his sons and another young man, left Mullyon Cove on the Friday morning, in his open fishing-boat, for Porthleven, in order to fetch some nets which were awaiting him there. The morning was fine, with a moderate breeze from N.N.E., and the water, therefore, comparatively smooth over the greater part of their course. They had proceeded to within a mile of the pier at Porthleven, when, standing in on her last tack, the boat was observed by some persons on the shore, suddenly to lose way, and in a few moments to disappear altogether. That those on board were aware of their danger was evident, for they were engaged in lowering the sail when the boat sank. Immediately, on the first symptom of disablement, three boats were urged out with all speed to the spot, under oars and canvas, reaching the 86 Mullyon. scene of the catastrophe in less than ten minutes ; but, alas ! nothing what- ever was to be seen either of the boat or of the men. From the shore, by the aid of a telescope, one poor fellow was seen to struggle on the surface for about two minutes, but all were lost. A hat, a coat, a bag, a pair of oars, and a boat's bucket were found floating about, the last of these being the only thing by which the unhappy craft could be identified. The hat was sent on to Mullyon at once by a passing boat, which also brought the sad intelligence that the men were drowned. The hat was recognised as belonging to one of the party, but as a hat might easily have been blown off without further accident, and as the day was so fine, and Mundy such a well-known experienced hand, many at Mullyon refused to credit the story of his boat's having sunk. The return of messengers, however, later in the afternoon, confirmed the sad truth of the first report All were drowned. Various were the conjectures as to the cause of the boat's sinking, but of these the most probable would seem to be that the "step" of the mast giving way, a plank was thus forced out of the boat's bottom, and thus, without capsizing, she gradually filled and sank, and taking with her her unfortunate occupants. The names of the poor fellows were William Mundy, aged 58 ; his sons, Joel, 25, and Henry, 13 ; and a friend, John Henry Williams, aged 20. The last- named young man, who was a carpenter at Mullyon, living with a widowed step-mother, was shortly to have been married a pitiable case enough ! but poor Mundy's fate is even more distressing. The brave coxswain of the Daniel J. Draper Mullyon Lifeboat, deservedly respected by all with whom he came in contact, who, in his occupation as fisherman along this rugged coast, had lived a life of peril, had often braved the storm and saved the lives of others, thus under a bright sky and in a smooth sea, together with two of his sons, at length yields up his life to the element he so long had battled. The bodies of the three men were found in about two to six weeks after the accident, and their remains interred in Mullyon Churchyard ; the poor little boy never appeared again. The Vicar set on foot a subscription on behalf of Mundy's widow and his remaining children, and, chiefly by the aid of the Royal National Lifeboat Wolf Rock Lighthouse. 87 Institution, the subscribers to the Mullyon Lifeboat, and other Wesleyan friends, he was enabled to collect about ^100 for them. One of the younger children was also placed in the Orphan Home, at Brixham. THE WOLF ROCK LIGHTHOUSE. We had held great hopes of the efficacy of the splendid new light in the Wolf Rock in warning homeward bound vessels from this great natural ' trap' of Mount's Bay, which lies ever open to engulph the unwary. This lighthouse, which is erected on a rock of peculiar formation, was opened for the first time on the ist January, 1871. There was once an attempt made to fix on the top of this rock the huge figure of a wolf in copper, whose open mouth, receiving the winter's blast, should terrify or warn the sailor of his peril. This Chinese phantasy soon succumbed to the first south-wester, and is now replaced by one of the finest lights on the coast. The rock itself, situated 8 miles from the Land's End and 22 from the Lizard, is a pillar of almost basaltic origin, shooting up from beneath in the form of a pinnacle, since within a radius of a cable's length you at once get 30 fathoms of water all round. There was a very good model of the lighthouse exhibited at the International Museum, South Ken- sington, in 1873. Its height above water is about 100 feet, the light shewing an alternate red and white flash with the interval of a minute. We see it, though 23 miles distant, from our Vicarage windows, any night when the weather is not positively hazy, and doubtless it has been the means of warning many from the dangers of this rugged coast ; but not all, unfortunately. THE WRECK OF THE " BOYNE." At Trenance farm, Mullyon, at 5.45, on the morning of the ist of March, 1873, Thomas Jacka, the farmer, was just arousing himself from his slumber, when, happening to cast a cursory glance toward his window, he beheld a rocket-signal of distress shooting across the wintry sky. Hastily throwing about him a few articles of clothing, he hurried out towards the edge of the cliff, which at this point rises some 200 feet above the level of the sea, and through the dim light of the early morning, now rendered more obscure than usual by a thick fog and driving rain, he fancied he could perceive in the distance to the northward a vessel on the rocks. He hurried back to inform his cousin, who 88 Mullyon. rapidly dressed, and both of them with all speed proceeded along the coast in the direction of the ship, passing on their way, as they needs must, the deep valley, at the mouth of which lies Polurrian Cove. Ascending the opposite hill, and going on for about a quarter of a mile along the edge of the cliff, they saw at a spot called the " Merres Ledges " (itself the scene of many a former wreck) a large barque on the rocks, about fifteen fathoms from the cliff, lying broadside on to the sea and partly covered with the waves. Then hearing the cries of those on board, for they could not as yet, owing to the thickness of the weather, discover any human form, Jacka immediately hastened to the Church Town to give the alarm, calling first on Mr. White, the chief boatman of the coastguard, and next on Samuel Mundy, the second coxswain of the life- boat. It was now more than a quarter past six o'clock, and the unfortunate vessel had been bumping and grinding on the rocks where she first had struck for more than an hour. White got out the rocket apparatus and called together his staff of assistants, and Mundy, sending messengers to collect his crew, hastened to the Vicarage to speak the Hon. Secretary, and then ran off to Mullyon Cove to launch the lifeboat. Hurrying with all speed to the scene of the wreck, White planted his ap- paratus on the most available spot on the top of the cliff, at about 150 yards from the vessel. She was now lying partially dismasted on her port side, which was partly under water, the other portion of the ship being every now and then submerged in the advancing breakers. At this moment there were seven men observed on different parts of the vessel, three of whom were suddenly swept off by a huge wave. One of these poor fellows, who afterwards turned out to be the Captain, was seen for some time swimming about by the aid of a life-buoy, but the other two quickly disappeared. The rocket was fired and its rope fell among the four remaining men, the vessel now showing signs of rapidly breaking up. The rope was caught by one of the men, and he alone slowly hauled out the double line. The block of this got jammed, and the line itself twisted when the cry of " The Lifeboat " echoed along the cliff. The poor fellow then gave up his attempt to make use of the rocket line, which was now so twisted that those on shore could no longer work it. Dropping into the sea. it was eagerly seized by the man in the life-buoy, who The "Boyne." 89 having seen the rocket fired, had attempted to get near the vessel. In his attempt he was carried in by the waves between the vessel and the rocks, and now he endeavoured to haul himself in by the rope, hand over hand, to the cliff. He was beckoned off, making his way as he was to certain destruction, but he took no heed of the kindly warning. Had he kept further away he would undoubtedly have been picked up by the lifeboat, but slipping his hold on the rope, he fell once more into the surging waters, and although a line was thrown to him from the top of the cliff, and he seemed to catch it for a moment, he quickly sank to rise no more. While this was going on, the lifeboat had anchored about 60 yards to wind- ward of the vessel, which had now broken in two, fore and aft ; and while the lifeboat was dropping down to near the wreck, two out of the four that remained of the unfortunate crew were washed off, one of them hanging for some consider- able time over the leeward side of the vessel ; but from his position he could not be seen by those on board the lifeboat, and therefore no attempt was made by her to come between the vessel and the cliff to save him. The poor fellows themselves were so utterly benumbed and exhausted by their long exposure to the terrible waves, that they seemed incapable of doing anything to save them- selves. On the first opportunity Sam Mundy threw the leaded-cane line to one of the two remaining unfortunates, but it fouled ; another line was immediately thrown and caught, the man who caught it twisting it around his 'arm and his body, and then, to the astonishment and horror of the lifeboat's crew, also round one of his legs and the rail of the ship. Another line was at once thrown to the other man. He caught it, and was engaged in fastening it round himself when a breaker washed him off his hold on to the sloping deck of the vessel, and under her wheel, where getting jammed by the force of the breakers, he lost his hold of the line, was carried off by the succeeding wave, and drowned. The stern portion of the vessel, on which the only survivor now stood, parted from the rest of the ship, it rolled over, and he too disap- peared in the greedy waves. The attention of those on shore was now directed to a small boat, which had not before been seen, coming in from seaward, the occupants of which L go Mullyon. pulled straight in to Mullyon Cove. These were three of the crew of the wrecked vessel, Griffiths, Parsons, and Wilkinson, with an apprentice lad, Davidson,* on board. They had seen the lifeboat putting out, and naturally concluded that the spot whence she was launched was one where they could land. The interest of the lifeboat's crew, and indeed of all the spectators, had been hitherto so absorbed in the illfated vessel herself, that this boat had not been noticed until she was close in shore. The little party were in a most exhausted state, after battling with the waves, and alternately pulling and bailing out their small craft ; but after getting into dry clothing, which was sent them from the Vicarage, and being otherwise cared for, they were able to give the following particulars of the sad disaster. They said their vessel was an iron-built barque, named The Boyne, of Scarborough, belonging to Messrs. Tyndall and Co., 617 tons register, John Whelan, master, with a crew of 19 all told. She was just 120 days home from Samarang, bound to Falmouth for orders, having a valuable cargo of 900 tons of sugar. All had gone well with them up to the time of her striking. On 28th February, at 4 p.m., they had sighted the Scillies, and a little later the Wolf %>ck Light, which was then on her port bow. At 7.30 the Lizard Lights were seen. At 8 o'clock all hands were called to shorten sail, and the ship was kept close to the wind. At 11.30 the ship was put on the port tack, the Lizard then bearing E.N.E. 15 miles on the starboard quarter. At one a.m., and again at 2.30, soundings were taken ; at 3 o'clock she was put on the starboard tack, wind W.S.W., blowing half a gale, weather thick and hazy, no light visible. At 4.15 the master went below, leaving the deck in charge of the second officer. At about 5 a.m. a crash arising from the bowsprit was the first warning of anything being wrong, and a moment afterwards, the vessel running at about 9 or 10 knots at the time, suddenly struck on the rocks, and was immediately thrown round broad- side on to the waves in a perfectly helpless state. So utterly unaware was every one on board of approaching danger that some were comfortably pre- paring breakfast, all expecting to be in Falmouth Harbour soon after daybreak. * It may be mentioned here as a curious coincidence that the apprentice lad, Davidson, one of the saved, was on his next voyage again wrecked off the Coast of Cornwall, Island of Jamaica^ and again rescued, being thus twice wrecked and twice saved within a twelve month, off " the Coast of Cornwall ;" and that the Captain of The Boyne was the last of three brothers who had met their deaths by drowning. The "Boyne." . 91 The Captain seemed to realize his position at once. They had sailed right against Mullyon Cliffs, when they had imagined they were well clear of the Lizard, and making in for Falmouth. He ordered the boats at once to be lower- ed, and these three men and the boy had managed to get into the boat that had brought them ashore after she had been let down from the windward side of the vessel. They stayed alongside for some time endeavouring to persuade the Captain to join them, but he refused, and told them they had better pull away for the land, his last words being ' Good luck to you.' What happened to the other boats no one knew, and they were never seen by anyone after- wards. These four then pulled about, hoping to find Falmouth, when at last they saw the lifeboat in the distance, and then they made for the shore where they had seen her come out. They had saved their own lives, but otherwise had lost their all, and in a few hours they had sufficiently recovered to visit the scene of the wreck. They had had courage and fortitude sufficient to trust their lives in the small boat in which they left the vessel, but the scene before them now broke them down, and they fairly wept at the sight of it. All signs of their comrades had disappeared, and with them the whole of the cargo, save the empty sugar baskets which were floating about in hun- dreds. The fore part of the ship still held together, but the deck and linings had been twisted and thrown about in all directions, rigging, tackles, spars, and other gear having been broken up and washed away by the receding tide. And thus the master, both mates, and 12 of the crew were lost, adding 15 more souls to the sad list of ' the drowned at Mullyon.' The body of the Captain was soon after washed in, and being recognised by friends was removed for burial, just after the coroner's inquest, to Hull ; and the bodies of seven of the crew (amongst which were identified those of two apprentices, John Clark and Alexander Lowe Grahame) were washed ashore at various intervals, and buried in Mullyon Churchyard. A Boaid of Trade Inquiry as to the cause of the disaster was afterwards instituted at the earnest request of a relation of Grahame's, the result being the delivery of the following opinion : " It appeared to the Court that the fatal mistake the master made, was tacking to the northward at 11.30 on the night of 28th February." 92 Mullyon. 15 drowned 7 buried in Mullyon Churchyard. The following letter appeared in a Plymouth newspaper, on i4th March, 1873:- TO THE EDITOR OF THE WESTERN MORNING NEWS. SIR, The ineffective look-out kept on board vessels, especially in the channel or near the coast, is becoming more and more notorious, and those on shore have often to bear the blame which is really due to those on board. The Barque Boyne, wrecked here on the ist instant is, I fear, another instance of this kind. It was a dirty night, but nothing like a gale blowing, and the barque Boyne having already sighted the Wolf Light and the Lizard on the previous evening, instead of getting into Falmouth, whither she was bound, at 5.20 a.m. strikes against our cliffs and shortly becomes a total wreck, with a loss of 15 lives. True, she was not observed from the shore by any one till more than an hour after she struck. No fault of the Coastguard watchman surely, when it is considered that he has to guard no less than seven miles of such a coast as this, taking at least four hours at this time of the year to walk or rather scramble over his beat. On this occasion the watchman had not long before passed the very spot where this wreck occurred. And at the inquest held here yesterday the evidence of independent witnesses established the fact very clearly that the coastguard had done their duty both on watch and with the rocket apparatus, and that the crew of the Life- boat had done all that men could do to rescue the drowning. But ! one watchman, or even as there are often, two to guard such a coast as this in thick weather? Would this be a sufficient coastguard anywhere out of Cornwall ? Five years ago I gave my opinion of this matter to a Commanding Inspector of Coastguards, and received as a reply, that I was not in a position to form an opinion. Perhaps not, I have a strong one, never- theless. And if these lines should happen to meet' the eye of any captain or master of a vessel, let me entreat him, for his own sake and for the sake of his crew, to keep a good look-out, for, in a storm a quarter of an hour will often suffice, if he should find himself on our cliffs, to smash his vessel to bits, and to drown every soul on board. In six years and a quarter there have been nine wrecks, with a loss of sixty-nine lives, under Mullyon cliffs, on a bit of coast line not more than a mile and a half in length, and more than a hundred lives lost out of thirteen wrecks in ten years. Yours yuly, E. G. HARVEY, March 8, 1873. Vicar of Mullyon and Hon. Sec. Mullyon Lifeboat Branch. TELEGRAPH. In May, 1873, a memorial influentially signed, was forwarded to the Post Office authorities in the hope of securing telegraphic communication to Mull- yon, but without success. It is to be hoped, however, that such extension will not be much longer delayed. The telegraph of this " bright little tight little island " of ours can never be considered at all complete until there is direct communication from one coastguard station to another, or from lifeboat branch to lifeboat branch along the whole coast. Our memorial and the result will be found in the Appendix. WRECK OF THE " DIANA." The Austrian barque Diana* of Piccolo Lossini, 535 tons register, Captain * Although this wreck did not occur on the coasts of this parish, I have been so repeatedly urged to insert it among the others that I could not well refuse to admit this account of it. The "Diana." 93 Bonifacio Cattarinich, laden with wheat, left Falmouth for Dublin early on Tuesday morning, 8th December, 1874, weather thick and stormy. En- countering the full force of a southwesterly gale about eight miles S.W. off the Wolf Rock Lighthouse, she had some of her canvas blown away, which ren- dered it necessary for her to return to Falmouth to refit. The attempt to clear the Lizard, however, failed, and at 3.30 she was on the sands and in the surf in Gunwalloe Church Cove. At about three o'clock she was seen in the haze off Mullyon Cliffs, a very heavy and awkward sea running into Mount's Bay at the time. The rocket apparatus was got out, and the Lifeboat's crew were soon ready, when the vessel, which had been lost sight of for a few minutes, owing to the thickness of the mist, was again seen off Mullyon Island, where from some cause she was compelled to wear ship; this made her fate more speedy of accomplishment, and it was now only a question on what particular spot she would come on shore, that it might not be against the cliffs was the hope of all. It was a sad, yet awfully splendid sight to witness the fine ship proudly rushing along in her wild career through and over the whitened waves, under and almost close to the lofty cliffs, nearer and nearer at every moment, to swift and inevitable destruction." And the poor souls on board ! How many ? Will they escape ? Be drowned ? Or killed against the rocks ? Heaven help them ! A signal gun is fired. Ah ! no need for that now! It seems like mockery to us who know from an only too long and sad experience the nature of the impending catastrophe. About four minutes and she nears Poljew, but, clearing this, she strikes on the sand at Church Cove, where she lies stern on to the breakers, which soon deluge her in foam. The rocket apparatus is planted and a line fired, but it misses her. A second is fired. " Well done Philip Angel !" It falls right between her main and mizen masts, but becoming entangled in the rigging does not reach the deck, and before they can secure it a third line is fired which falls across the poop. This is easily caught, and by it the hawser hauled out, and immediately is the cradle sent out on its errand of mercy. It brings in first the Captain's wife, and then the Captain, who was so exhausted as to require support on his way to the nearest farm house ; after that the crew in couples to the number of 12 were taken off, until the mate alone was left, and then he too is hauled 94 Mullyon. to shore in safety amid the grateful cheers of the assembled spectators. The crew, who had left their all on board, were clothed temporarily by the fisher- men and villagers of the neighbourhood ; and then taken for the night, some to Gunwalloe fishing village and some to Mullyon Churchtown, where they were made as comfortable as circumstances would allow. The Coastguard men and their assistants, under command of Mr. Harris, officer of Coastguard, Mullyon, deserve all praise for their prompt and ener- getic behaviour with the rocket apparatus. The rapidity with which it was brought to bear on the unfortunate ship's company, and the complete success which attended their efforts, were matters of sincere congratulation to all. The Diana lay perfectly upright across the Cove for some weeks afterwards, and while her cargo was being taken out, which was done without difficulty as she was often left dry by the receding tide, hopes were entertained of her being once more floated off, and she was purchased as she lay for ^300 ; but heavy weather coming on about the middle of January her starboard bilge gave in first of all, and in about a week her remains were to be seen arranged in piles along the beach awaiting the arrival of the auctioneer. THE OLD CORNISH LANGUAGE. F all the varied dialects of the ancient Celtic or Gaelic tongue, such as is the Welsh, Irish, Manx, Armoric, or Cornish, the latter seems to have been the purest. In early times the Cornish more nearly approximated the Welsh in construction ; but later, by reason doubtless of the more frequent intercourse which existed between the inhabitants of the coasts of Cornwall and Brittany, the Cornish and the Armoric were more nearly allied in grammar and pronounciation. This will be seen by comparing the Apostles' Creed as given below in Cornish of different dates, with the Welsh and Armoric versions. Of these three dialects the Cornish has always been held the most elegant and expressive, as Carew says, " It is not so unpleasing in sound with throat letters" as the Welsh. Professor Max Miiller in his "Chips" Vol. 3, /. 257, writes " It (the Cornish) seems to have been a melodious, and yet by no means an effeminate language, and Scawen places it in this respect above most of the Celtic dialects. ' Cornish/ he says, ' is not to be gutterally pronounced as the Welsh for the most part is, nor mutteringly as the Armorick, nor whin- ingly as the Irish (which two latter qualities seem to have been contracted from their servitude) but must be lively and manly spoken like other primitive tongues.' " That Cornish should have died out sooner than its kindred Welsh or Armoric, although they are fast following its fate, is not surprising when the comparatively limited territory in which, and the smallness of the population among whom it obtained, are considered ; but other causes in its speedy dis- appearance as a living tongue may be found in the carelessness of the Cornish 9 6 Mullyon. to resist Anglo-Saxon innovations, in this respect at least differing from their Welsh cousins, and to a neglect of the invention of printing, and the conse- quent non-existence of a church service, catechisms, &c., in the vulgar (Cornish) tongue, neither of which were so lost sight of in Brittany. One would be sorry to see the old Mousehole fishwoman, Dolly Pentreath, altogether removed from the pedestal on which Mr. Daines Barrington placed her in 1768, as being " the last person who spoke Cornish fluently ;" but it is certain she was by no means the last. There is still extant a letter written in Cornish by a Mousehole fisherman in 1776, who says in it, that he learnt the language as a boy ; and that when at sea with his father and others he did not hear a word of English for a week together.* Cornish was understood and spoken by many on to the beginning of the present century. In 1790 according to Pryce, Cornish was still spoken in the West, and the Matthews' of Nevvlyn, one of whom died in 1800, are known to have spoken it more fluently than Dolly Pentreath. It lingers even now in a multitude of words commonly used by our agricultural labourers and fishermen ; I remember as a child myself being taught by tradition, orally of course, to count, and say the Lord's Prayer in Cornish, and I dare say there is many a youngster in Newlyn at the present moment who can score in Cornish as readily as he can in English. Here are the numerals by way of comparison in WELSH, CORNISH, AND BREZONEC. I un un or unan unn or unan 2 daw masc. dew masc. daow masc. 11 dwy fern. dui fern. diow fern. 3 tri m. tri m. tri m. tair/ teir/ teir/ 4 pedwar m. peswar m. pevar m. pedair/ pedar/ peder/ 5 pymp pymp pemp 6 chwech wheh c'houec'h *Quarterly Review, July, 1867, p. 40. The Old Cornish Language. 97 WELSH. CORNISH, AND BREZONEC. 7 saith seyth seiz 8 wyth eyth eiz 9 naw naw nao IO deg dec dek 1 1 un-ar-ddeg unnec unnek 12 deu-ddeg dewthec daouzek 13 tri-ar-ddeg trithec trizek 14 pedwar-ar-ddeg peswarthec pevarzek 15 pymtheg pymthec pemzek 16 un-ar-bymtheg whethec c'houezek i7 dau-ar-bymtheg seythec seitek 18 tri-ar,bymtheg eythec triouec'h or dau naw 19 pedwar-ar-bymtheg nawnthec naontek 20 ugain ugans uguent 30 deg-ar-hugain dec warn ugans dek war hugi 40 dew gain dew ugans daow uguent 5 / deg-a'-deugain ( hanner cant hanter cans hanter cant 100 cant cans cant Please note how the Cornish steadily marches through the 'teens' without being like the Welsh reduced to express 19 by 15 + 4 and 2 x 9; or 18, by 3 x 6 as the Brezonec. M Mullyon. WELSH. CORNISH. From the Welsh Book of Common Prayer. In the orthography of the Cornish Drama, adapted from Williams' Gerlyver Cernewec. CREDO. CREDO 'R APOSTOLION. CREGYANS A'N ABESTELETH. i. Credaf yn nuw Dad Holl-gyf- i. Cresaf yn Dew an Tas Olgal- oethog, Creawdwr nef a daear : losec, gwrear a'n nef, ha'n nor : 2. Ac yn Jesu Grist ei un Mab ef, ein Harglwydd ni ; 3. Yr hwn a gaed trwy yr Yspryd Glan, A aned o Fair Forwyn, 4. A ddi'oddefodd dan Pontius Pilatus, a groeshoeliwyd, a fu farw, ac a gladdwyd ; 5. A ddisgynodd i uffern ; y trydydd dydd y cyfodd, o feirw ; 6. A esgynodd i'r nefoedd, Ac y mae yn eistedd ar ddeheulaw Dduw Dad Holl-gyfoethog ; 7. Oddi yno y daw i farnu byw a meirw. 8. Credaf yn yr Yspryd Glan ; 9. Yr Eglwys San Gatholig ; Cummun y Saint ; 10. Maddeuant Pechodau ; n. Adgyfodiad y Cnawd, 12. A'r Bywyd tragywyddol. Amen. 2. Hag yn Jhesu Gryst y yn mab ef, agan Arluth ny ; 3. Neb a ve deny thys dre an Spyrys Sans, genys a'n Werches Vary, 4. A wodhevys yn dan Pontius Pilatus, a ve crowsys, marow hag ancledys, 5. Ef a dhyescynnas the iffarn an tressa dyth ef a dhedhoras dheworth an marow ; 6. Hag a escynnas the'n nef ; hag yma ow sedhe' war dorn dychow an Tas Olgallosec ; 7. Alena ef a dhue the vrusy bew ha marow. 8. Cresaf yn Spyrys Sans ; 9. An Eglos Sans, dres an bys, cowethyans an Sansow ; 10. Dewyllans pechasow ; Dedhoryans an corf; 12. Ha'n bewnans hep dyweth. Amen. The Cornish Language. 99 CORNISH. BREZONEC. " 'As formerly used in all the Cornish Churches." From the "Catekismou Leon," published with authority GILBERT. Some wards however seem doubtful. of the Bishop of Kemper and Leon, 186^. CREDO. GRECIANS A'N ABESTELY. SYMBOLEN AN EBESTEL. 1. Me agris aez en Du, an Tas allogogack, wresser a heu hag doar, 2. Hag en Jesu Chrest, ys nuell mab agan Arluth, 3. Neb ve concevijis ryb an. hairon Sperres, genjis ay an Voz Mareea, 4. Cothaff orthaff Pontius Pilat, ve crowsye, maraws hag bethens, 5. Of deskynas en the Iffran hag an trysa journa ef sevye arte thort an maraws, 6. Ef askynnas en the neuf : hag setvah wor an dighow dome ay Du, as Tas allogollogack, 7. Ag en a ef fyth dos the judgge ar beaw hag au maraws. 8. Me agris an benegas spines, 9. An Hairon Catholic Eglos, an Communion ay Sans. 10. An givyans ay peags. 11. An sevyans ay an corfe 12. Hag an bewe regnaveffere Amen. 1. Me agred e Doue an Tad oll-galloudec, Crouer d'an ee ha d'an douar ; 2. Hag e Jesus Christ he Vab unic, hon Antrou ; 3. Pehini zo bet concevet eus ar Speret-Santel, ganet gant ar Verc'hez glorius* Van ; 4. En deus gouzanvet dindan Pong Pilat ; a zo bet crudfiet, maro ha sebeliet ; 5. A zo bet diskennet d'an ifernou, ha ressuscitet an trede deiz a varo da veo ; 6. A zo bet pignet en eevou, hag azezet en tu deou da Zoue an Tad oll-galloudec ; 7. Ac'hano e teui da varn ar re veo hag ar re varo. 8. Me a gred er Speret-Santel ; 9. An His Santel catholic , Communion ar Zent ; 10. Remission ar pec'hejou ; n. Resurrection ar c'hic ; 12. Ar vuez eternel. Evellen bezel gret. * (Note ecclesiastical) Cool interpolation ! ioo Mullyon. NAMES, SPELLING, &C. To be able to spell correctly argues a writer of more or less education. Correct spelling is not without its inconveniences ; but then, correct spelling should be regarded and used rather with the view of pointing out and sustaining the original or actual meaning of the word than as a guide to pronunciation. This, which holds true of all languages more or less, is especially the case with English, and as to Cornish names of persons and places, I think, with the learned author of " The History of Pclperro" p. 49, that on the whole, "the oral transmission of a name is generally to be trusted before documentary evidence." But caution must be used even here " Men an vawr" 'I he big rock has been corrupted, both orally and in the Ordnance and other maps, into " Man of war rocks ;" " Men eglos " Church rock has degraded to " The manacles." and " Pen y cwm guig " metamorphosed into "Penny come quick!" &c., &c. Those connected with the Ordnance Surveys, and the good people who assisted the Tithe Commissioners to draw out the apportionments are responsible for the continuance of many an error of this nature. And this is the more to be regretted, because with a very little trouble they might have ascertained the real names, and stereotyped them as it were, whereas we now have over and over again unnecessary stumbling blocks opposing us in getting at the meaning of an old Cornish name, by the wild way in which we find it spelt in the public maps, &c. Thus in the Mullyon tithe apportionment, the word " carrag " a rock is spelt in no less than eight different ways ; " gweal " afield shares the same fate; "Ian men hayl " a stony moor indosure appears as "Lummun Hal ;" "Tal an vean" little hill as "Tallen Vaughen ;" and " Men dour " watery stone as " Man down ! " &c. The best method then of arriving at the meaning of any old Cornish name is, for the most part, to divest oneself as far as possible of any preconceived notions as to its spelling, and to take an opportunity of listening personally to the pronuncia- tion of the word by the inhabitants. Few, I suppose, would follow in the wake of the wiseacre who took Polurrian, a cove, to be Eolerion, the headland of Ptolemy, and not many a stranger, unless he happen to be a Celt, would find it easy, even after having heard it from the mouth of a native, to give it The Old Cornish Language. the true pronunciation ; but once thus having heard it, if you have any knowledge at all of the language, the true word and its meaning occur to you immediately, Polyrhian boundary pool. Should you desire any confirmation of the correctness of your rendering, visit the spot yourself, as I have done in almost every one of the cases given below, and see if it fits. Here in the case before us, down the length of the valley to the Cove's mouth and out beyond, you may trace the large vein of conglomerate the boundary which separates the slate on the North side from the hornblende on the South. It is almost needless to add that you are safer with natural peculiarities than with artificial, the former being less liable to change. NAMES OF FARMS, TENEMENTS, FIELDS, &C., IN MULLYON. As GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. NAFREGO, called also locally FRECAS Lan frechiau Fruit trees enclosure Menewoon Men y gun, or Men y Stony Down gwon Dorm on Pla Dor men plat, or Doar maen plat Flatstone field Park Wollas Pare wollas Lower field TREMENHEHE TRE MEN HYR Long stone dwelling Park an Hall Pare an hal, or hayl The moor field Geveladre Gweal an dre Homer field Parketh Pare eithin Furze field Park Blendw ? ? Park en Venton Pare an fen ten Spring, or well field Gilley meadow Celli Grove Redannack Redanick Ferny MERES MOR ROS The sea valley Enskellaw Pare an scelli The bat's field Park Enshaft Pare an saf ty Tree-stem hovel field Dor Here Dor hyr Long land iO2 Mullyon. AS GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- , TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. Park Landridge Pare Ian trig Dwelling enclosure field Morrop Mor ryp Beside the sea The Keen Ryne The channel of a stream SHETA ? SETHAR Gulls' (abode) LA FLOUDER LAN FROWDIAU Springs, or small water- falls enclosure Belhere ? Beler Watercress Arrow Garow Rough (place) Goss Gardens Cors Sedge TREGELLES TRE GOLLAS Ruined dwelling HALLAS VEAN HAL GLAS VEAN Little green moor GWEELE AN CABBIN GWEAL AN KE BIHAN Little enclosed field PARK VENTON SAH PARC AN FEN TEN SAW Spring-in-the-cleft field THE WEETH GWYTH The high, conspicuous place TRENANCE VEAN TRE NANS VEAN Little dwelling in the valley Bellurian Pol yrhian Boundary Pool Park Jarne Pare dzharn Garden field Crick Mawgan Creeg mor gan Stony mound by the sea Park Shoel Pare is hal Field below the moor Pednan vounder Pen an vounder The head of the lane Trenoweth Tre nowyth New dwelling Meixers ? GREAT TRENANCE TRE NANSVEUR,Or VEOR Great dwelling in the valley Park Kistall Pare castel Castle field Park Loar Pare luar Garden field Tallen Vaughen Tal an vean Little hill-top Park Emmet ? Park Mellon Pare melin Mill field Crigg ear Creegiau Hillocks Names of Farms, 103 As GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. GARRO GAROW Rough Pearn Gweal ? Higher Keine Cein Ridge (of a hill) Park Bush Pare bos, or bus Fodder field Park Creame Pare grean Gravel field Park Mage Pare mes Plain, open field Ghost field Cors Sedge Park Jairn Pare Dzharn Garden field ENNIS ENVS Island Pasty Pans PREDANNACK WARTHA PREDANICK WARTHA Higher ferny (spot) Croft an creeg Croft an creeg Stony mound croft Burrow Croft Cuckoo Rose Cog y ros Cuekoo valley Park Bean Parcbihan,bean orvean Little field Park Mere Pare meur, or veor Big field Davere Dor veor, or veur Large land Park menor Pare mener, meneth Mountain field Dor Cairn Dor earn Rocky land Dor Couth Dor coth Old land Dor Woll Dor Wollas Lower land Goon Vean Gun Vean Little down Carne Lyer Carn lyha, or leir Smallest cairn j Vuldo ? Herlam Hyr Ian Long enclosure Well Gooth Gweal coid Plantation field Lummun Hal Lan men hal Stony moor enclosure Lana Mars Lan an merch Horses enclosure Kullore Cul oar Narrow land * Gobben Gobben Fruitful * The richest bit of ground on a farm is frequently termed "Gobben." The root is " gober" a reward, recompense, that which pays for cultivation. 1 04 Mullyon. As GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. Croft Noweth Croft Nowyth New Croft Park Vro Pare Vro, or Bro Country field Well Kerens Gweal Cerynys Dear, loved, field Daroose Dor ros The valley land Man down (!) Men dour Watery stone Gobben Higgo Gobben ogo Cave in the rich field Park Hedrass Pare an dreis Bramble field Shafty Croft Saf ty Croft Tree-stem hovel field Well Vrouse Gweal bras Rich field Sevan Park Pare Sevi Strawberry Park Monop ? Moirop Mor ryp By the sea The Praze Pras Meadow Tregwinning Tre gwenyn Bees' abode Bongey ? Bougey Boudzhi Cow-house Barr Croft Bar C. Hilltop C. Creigullow Creeg culow Rocky hilltops Halkimbra Hal cymro Briton's moor He wan? Hervan ? TREVITHO TRE BEDHOW The place of graves Geu Orchard Ceow Orchard Orchard fields Park Woon Pare gun Down, moor, field Lapego ? Lafrego locally called Frecas Lan frechiau Fruit trees enclosure Park Grosise Pare crows ys Under-cross field Penhale Pen hal Head of the moor CLAHAR GARDEN Cleyr earn Bright rocks (heap of) Park Hebye Park Hebyr Carrick Here Carrag hyr Long rock Park Cairn Pare earn Rock (heap of) field Park Vabyn Names of Farms, &c. 105 AS GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. St. Maloes Moor Sampson's Croft Cheponds Chyponds Remeal Renuel Tshyi, or chy pons >? Tre Mihal, or Mael Bridge house 11 Michaels' dwelling Venton Vidon Castle Cover NEWTON PFenten Fydhyn ? gover The trusted well Rivulet New Town Saxon Lean Loch TREWOON Har Strick Lyn leauch TRE GUN ? Calf s pool Dwelling on the down Gual Dallar Gweal dall Blind field Kin Her FENTON ARIANCE Ceyn hyr FENTEN ARHANS Long ridge Silver well VOUNDER VOUNDER The Lane Park Grow Park Dray Park Dry Tees Pare grow Pare derow ? Gravel, or sandy field Oaks' field 11 MEAVER MEA' VEOR Great meadow Park Parrack Karrack Park an Joppa TREWITHNOE Park an leddan ? Pare prathac Carrag ? TIRETH NOWYTH Pare an ledan Meadowy field Rocks New, or bare land The broad field KYNANCE PRISKE KE' NANS PRYSC The shut in, enclosed valley Underwood Tubbon Vineyard Tretharrap Moor POLHORMON Tubn ? POL OAR MEN A clod Earth stone pool N io6 Mullyon. As GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. Calebna Calenia Wood dove's (abode) Calebred ,, Bosweddaen for Rose- widden Ros gwydn White valley Park Scheta for Sheba Pare sciber Barn field Loreer Luar hyr Long garden ANGROWSE AN CROWS The Cross Lenogar Lan ogo Cave enclosure Park Bullas Pare Pilez Bare, bald field Park Creaze Pare crs The middle, central field Pare Scawen Pare Scawen Elder tree field Dor Hare Dor hyr Long land Sparnon Spern gun Thorny down ~* Park Brougey Pare Boudzhi Cow house field Park Wavan Pare gvvavan Wintry field Dor Main Dor myin Stony land Lidgia Lidzhu Ashes, remains of anything burnt Crook Main Cruc myin Stony burrow, or mound Park Minish Pare minys Little field DOMAINE DOR MYIN Stony land COLROGER Col roger Roger's ridge TRESPRISEN TRE SPRIDION Spirit, or haunted dwelling Park Crigar Pare crigow Hillocky field Park Ebsar ? TERE BEAN TYR BEAN Small land MEVER CREASE MEAVEOR CRES Middle Meaveor Park Scheba Pare sciber Barn field Park Nithen Pare an eithin Furzy field , Park Woon Pare gun Down field PREDANNACK WOLLAS PREDANICK WOLLAS Lower Predannack Names of Farms, 107 AS GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. Pedn menon Pedn maen Rocky head Casky Lallah ? Coskd le lowarn Foxes' sleeping place Park an Vave Dor Boobah ? Dor boba Blockhead's land Penonack Pen on ick Ash tree head Pentinick Pen denick Hilly head Loga Stoggoth Loga stoc coth Heap of old tree trunks Vea Ddan ? Venton Vyvyan Fenten Vyvyan Vyvyans well Menor Gwidden Men y gwydn White stone Deager ? Dege' Tenth, Tithe Dearger Belowley Pel lo le Distant pool place Vraddan Bradn Crow's or Choughs Jolly Town ? Diawl Towan Devil's Down It will be seen that I am unable to interpret all these names, and some of the renderings are doubtful ; but how full of poetry they, many of them, are ! For example, ' Let us away by Le Flouder and Schetas to Polurrian and Pedn y Ke,' onj past Carrag luz, Porthmellin and the Vro to Creeg Morgan,' which fully rendered into English will run thus, ' Let us away by the water springs and the sea bird's home, on past the hoary rock, the mill cove and the brow, to the stony hillocks by the sea.' NAMES OF HEADLANDS, COVES, &C. AS GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. Poljew Many Grib Menuel Lew gabm Poldu Mn y grib Men hewel Lo cabm Black pool Rock like a comb The conspicuous rock Crooked pool io8 Mullyon. As GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING. SIGNIFICATION. * Innis Enys The Island Polglaze Pol glas Green pool Higgo mesul Ogo? PCave Polbream Pol bream Bream (fish) pool Polurrian Pol yrhian Edge, margin, boundary pool Pedna Quay Pedn y Ke' The enclosed head Carrick gloose Carrag luz The grey rock Henscarth Hen Scath Old boat Scorvan, the Ear Scovarn The ear (rock) Porth Mellin Porth Mellin Mill Cove Porpig Porth Pyg, or Peg Beak, or small cove Vounder Nean Vounder an Ean Lamb's path Innis Pruen Enys Bronnow The Island of round, breast like protuberances Tregwin Tre gwyn The white spot Tol dew Toldu Black hole Lappen Kean Ladn ceyn Broad ridge, or head t The Vroe Vro, or Bro The hill, brow, &c. The Rinyard Ryniau Stream channels The Chair Canavas Kd nab os | The hollow or bight of knowing, or by which you may know. Main tail Men te heul Sunny Rock Pedn Predannack Pen Predanick Predannack Head The Vradden Bradn The crows>or chough's rock Called also "Uncle Issy's garden," one Israel Odger having cultivated a small plot on the top of this rock some 150 years ago. t About 100 years ago, a man of the name of Uren climbed the Gull Rock without the aid of ropes, &c. He was ever afterwards called " Old Vro." } "The tell tale'bight." Our fishermen know by the appearance of the water in Canavas what is its state at their landing place in the Cove. If it be rough in Canavas, they will have rough landing at the Cove, and vice -versa. Names of Headlands, 109 AS GIVEN IN THE TlTHE APPOR- TIONMENT. THE TRUE CORNISH SPELLING, SIGNIFICATION. Park a bihan Pare an vean, or byan Little field Ugethawr Ogo dour Watery cave Polhorneck Pol cornick Corner pool Georges Cove Vellan Head Velen Yellow Pengersick Pen corsick Sedgy head Gersick an awn Gersick an awn Sedgy river Hugo pons Ogo pons Bridge cave Gue Greze Gew corez, or cors Sedgy valley Pigeon Hugo Bigeon,or Poethonogo Dirty, or boiling cave The Horse An ors The bear The Pound The Rill Par an oel Pare an heul Sunny sand Ky nance Kenans The enclosed or hedged- in valley Here are a few names of places in Mullyon strung together after the manner of the late Rev. Le Grice's " Lappior Jem," who is represented as singing to his companion " Shalal-a-shackets," a somewhat similar strain commencing : Vel-an-drakya, Cracka, Cudner Truzmenhale, Chun, Crowz an wra, &c. NOMINA MULLYONIANA. Mullyon, Dor men Plat, Nafrego Men y gwiddn, Loar, Vea Ddan Troon Halkymbro, Gobben Huggo Gweal an Cabbin, Vro, Vraddan. no Mullyon. Lana Mars, Jarine, Gual Dallah Venton Vyvyan, Park Wavan Gew, Calebna, Casky Lallah Pedn an Vounder, Creeg Mawgan. Logga Stoggoth, Pradannack wartha, Vuldo, Lidgia, Polurrian, Pare an Venton Sah, Dor Boobah, Praze, Grosize, Chypons, Sevan. Most persons east of the Tamar might easily suppose this to be "Persian " or any other language. EXTRACTS FROM THE REGISTER OF BURIALS, MULLYON. URIALS in Mullyon Churchyard during a period of 50 years, viz.: from i January, 1813 to 31 December, 1862, inclusive. Under the age of 5 years 148 Between 5 years old and 10 . I0 11 X 5 11 15 ii 2 11 20 25 25 30 11 30 11 35 11 35 11 40 40 45 11 45 5 5 11 55 55 60 60 65 65 70 7 75 :i 75 11 80 80 85 11 85 90 11 9 95 11 95 ioo 25 22 39 14 23 20 21 *5 28 31 35 46 48 39 29 14 2 And there were 20 buried whose ages were not known. It will be seen then that the greater number of persons (exclusive of infants under 5 years old) dying in that 50 years, attained the age of 75 and upwards ; the next greatest number reached 70 and upwards, and the next 80 and ii2 Mullyon. upwards. The same number as this last died between 20 and 25, and the next largest number lived to between 85 and 90 years. I have made similar computations for the same period of years from the register books of the other parishes in Meneag, but none shew so lengthy an average life as this of the parishioners of Mullyon. In 1873 I buried an old lady who before she died declared she had reached the advanced age of 101. Her baptismal certificate proves her to have been at least 99 when she died. The population of Mullyon in 1861 was 679. The total number of burials in 50 years, 653. Between 3rd September, 1868 and 26th September, 1869 there was, besides that of an infant of three weeks old, but one death in the parish. Of the different portions of the year the month of May would seem to be the most fatal at Mullyon, April, February, March, January, December, June, October, July, September following in the order given, while August and November are the healthiest. APPENDIX A. PEDIGREES, HISTORICAL JOTTINGS, &C. Inquisitio W post mortem at Truro, i6th September, 8th Henry VI (1429) on John Petyt, armiger, who held in the manor of Predannack Wartha by gift of John Petyt, late lord of Trenerth, knight, &c., &c Said John died 23rd July, and John Petyt, the son, was aged 30. Inquisit. Bk. of Henry VI, John Petyt held Predannek, formerly held by the Bishop of Exeter. Inquisit. post mort 28th October, 34 Henry VI, (1455) on John Petyt, armiger. Said John held parcel of manor of Predannack Wartha by gift of John Petyt, knight, late lord of Trenerth, to Michael Petyt and Amicia his wife, &c., of whom said John in writ named was heir, viz. : the son of John, the son of said Michasl and Amicia, held of the King in puro socagio as of his castle of Launceston, as of Duchy of Cornwall, &c Said John died xoth June, and John his son was then aged 28 years and more. Ped : Fin : 17 Edward I, No. 6, Michael le Petyt, Qu : John le Petyt, def : lands in Trenerth, Predanek wartha, &c. In the year 1297, King Edward I imprisoned many of the Cornish clergy at Launceston, for refusing to pay the taxes. This refusal was made on the strength of the famous Bull of Pope Boniface VIII " Clerices laicos "- which forbad the taxation of the clergy. Among those thus imprisoned was John le Petit, parson of the Church of S. Melan in KirrierX 2 ) 1 Harleian Society Ed. of Heraldic Visit : of Cornwall in 1620, Ed : by Drake and Vivian. 2 Prynne, Records pp. 700 and 713. o Mullyon. TABLE I. PEDIGREE OF LE PETYT. John le Petyt=Alice, Dr. of Mirabel Durhall. living in 1284. John=Laure ? living in 1302. I I John=Isabel, dr. and coh. of Richard Heligan Joan (who died 1326) by Margaret dr. of Sir Roger Prideaux. John= Johanna, dr. and coh. of Sir d. 1363, lord of Trenerth. I Oliver Carminow. Michl=Amicia, dr. of Sir John Bloyce, by Margaret, aged 30 at father's death I dr. and hs. of Sir John Tynten. in 1363. of Ardevora in Philleigh, died 23 July, 1429. John=Margaret, dr. and hs. of John Rejoryk, by Isabel, dr. and hs. of Thomas Goviley, and so got Ardevora. John=Margaret, dr. of Ralph Trenowith. of Ardevora, died 10 June, 1455, he was 30 in 1429. Ann who was 28 at his father's death, 1455. John=Jane, dr. of W. Anthorne (Antron) Michael=Thomasin Leigh. I Eleanor=John Bevil. Dau. =Grenville. Dau.=Sayer. Jane=l. Th. Treyanion. 2. John Killigrew Uecanus et capitulum ecclesiae bead Petri, Exon. : finem fecerunt cum Rege per vigenti libras pro licentia ingrediendi unam acram terrse in Rossewyk in Pengarreg et advocationem ecclesiae Sancti Melani in Kirrier et pro licentia appropriandi ecclesiam antedictam "W Rossewyk (Ros gwic) is the manor ex- tending over Landewednack, Ruan Minor, and Grade. & " De nona garbarum vellerum et agnorum parochiae ecclesiae Sancti Melani taxata ad VIII libras et sic rendita Johanni Rous, Nicholas Rogers, Roger Trenans et Johanni Petit, De quintadecima vero nihil."(3) 1 Rotularum Orig : Abb : (Exchequer) I, p. 171. 2 Davies Gilbert, II, p. 358. 3 Inquisitiones nonarum (i.e., the ninth sheaf, lamb and fleece granted to Edward III for the war in 1340), P- 343- Pedigrees, &c. 115 Of neighbouring parishes Grade paid ^3, the two Ruans and Gunwalloe 4 35. 4d. each, &c. The John Petit here mentioned is Sir John, who married Johanna, daughter of Sir Oliver Carminow, and who died 1363. TABLE II. PEDIGREE OF DE CERISIS, DE CERISEAUX, SERJEAULX, SERGEAUX OF PRADANNACK IN MUI.LVON, COLQUITE IN S. MABYN, KILLIGARTH IN TALLAND. Richard de Cerisis, d. 1307 John=Johanna? 1299. (obt. vita patris) I Lucy=John Trelawriey. Richard=Margaret, wid. of Jas. Peverel (born 1301). I (she died 1349). John=Elizabeth, dr. of Sir (Sir) Richard=(i) Elizabeth, dr. of Sir and (2) in 1373, Philippa, dr. of died 1388) W. Champernon, and (died 1393) W. de Rodrugan. wid. of Wm. Polglas (she died 1398). Richard Earl of Arundel. Elizabeth^ Sir Wm. Marney Philippa=(i) Sir Robert Passeley (born 1375). of Essex, d. 1414 (died 1420) (2)Wm. Swinborn I Johanna, Richard had Predannack, (born 1374) Helston, Penryn, &c. (died 1396) I Alice=(i) Guy S. Aubyn, sheriff, 1399. ? youngest. (2) Richard de Vere, nth Earl of Oxford, who hence gets Predannack. (John, Earl of Oxford still held the ARMS As quartered by Tredinnick Argent, estates in 1463). a saltire, sable, between twelve cherries (3) Nicholas Throwley. gules. (C. S. Gilbert, II., p. 263, plate xxii.) Collected chiefly from Record Commission publications and County Histories, &c. n6 Mullyon. TABLE III. PEDIGREE OF KEMPTHORNE. The family name, which was anciently written Ley, originated from an estate so called in the parish of Beer Ferrers, in Devon. In the reign of Edward III, a younger son of Ley, of Ley, seated himself at Kempthorne, in the parish of Clawton near Holdsworthy, and so became designated by the name of Kemp- thorne, alias Ley. From this house descended John Kempthorne alias Ley, of Tonacombe (i) in Moor- winstow. A younger branch of the family settled in Mullyon, as will be seen from the extracts given below from the Registers of this parish. The Kempthornes have long possessed several good estates, and have furnished the British navy with some excellent officers. Samuel, and his brother, Edward Kempthorne, were living in Mullyon, in i6th century. Renatus (md. i64i)=Elizabeth Heckinge. Renatus (bn. i643)=Loveday (?) I Renatus (bn. 1674) -Jane, dr. of Richard Tonken of Mullyon. Renatus (bn. i7o6)=Elizabetl Tyacke. Charles Worth= of S. Ives, des. from the De Worths of Devon. - Prudence Keigwin, dan. of Rev. John Keigwin, isth in direct descent from King Edward I. See Table IV. ( 2 ) William = -Eliza- Edward = M arearet m(bn. i75o)=Catherin (bn. 1738) ( 3 )Wi beth Good- ridge. lliam (bn. 1744 settled at Carminow in Cury. 1 Triggian, i of Chy- J vorloe in i Cury. Jo : Worth, see Table IV (4) James=Eleanor Sandys. (5) John and others. John = Susanna Kempthorne. John Buckingham = Charlotte Thomas, of Polhormon, Mullyon, Churchwarden, 1875. Have issue. ARMS Ley and Kempthorne quarterly. Ley, Three lions' heads proper, with cJievron noir on a field argent. Kempthorne, Three thorn trees proper, on a field argent. CREST Dove with olive branch, A Lion sejant. MOTTO Ley, " Vicendo Victus ;" Kempthorne, " Karenza wkelas Karenza." Collected from Gilbert's Historical Survey of Cornwall, the Mullyon Registers, &c. NOTES TO TABLE III. (1). From Tonacombe house descended John Kempthorne, Attorney-at-law and horse officer in the service of Charles I. His youngest son, John, entered the navy and became a very successful commander, and was particularly victorious in his engagements with the Corsairs of Algiers, and for his valour and conduct therein he received the honour of Knighthood from Charles II, 30th April, 1670. After many great and important services, he successfully rose to the rank of rear-admiral of the red and vice-admiral of the blue, and on 26th November, 1675, was appointed Commissioner of the Navy at Portsmouth, where he died 19th October, 1679. Pedigrees, 6S CTTt^OVS TOVTOUS (TWf.KO.mXJ'f. IwttVVr/S 'OlKOVO/JiOS MeXavtoKos, avyp KaA^Sovios, $av//,awv TT)V re rrdvv 0eiav aprjTrjv TTJV TT)S TrapOevov MowS^s, /ecu rrjv rov TOVTOV acnriXov Ko^oTfjTa., ry r/fjiepa TOV pLTfl 7Tl TOIS tKOO"l CTCt T7/S a w t, ft. INDEX. PAGE. Aliases and Nicknames , 13, 14 Ancient Remains 16 Cairn, The, and view thence 16 Casouthers, Lazars, &c 16 Chaffers, Mr. R , 41 Chapel at Clahar Garden .. .' 19 ,, Predannack 18 ,, Trenance , 19 Character of Inhabitants '. 10 China Clay Works 41 Copper Mines , 3, 32 Cornish Language, The , 95 " Cousin Jack " 47 Crab Fishery 38 Creed, The Apostles', in Cornish, &c 98 Crops 4 Doing, the Lizard 43 Extiiouth, The, in a scrape 56 Fatal Accident to a Mullyon Fishing Boat 85 Flavel, Rev. Thomas 6, 29,31 "Heva" 35 Holy Well, or Fenten Sans 15 Improvement of Mullyon Cove 75 Inscription on Churchyard Cross T 30 Flavel's Monument 29 Lifeboat House 75 ,, Priske's Monument 30 Jolly Town 7, 107 130 Index, PAGE Lifeboat, the " Agar Robartes," at Mullyon G3 Cadgwith, Service of 79 " Daniel J. Draper," Launch of 74 }i ,, Service of 76 Lizard, The, Service of ... 80 Longevity of Inhabitants Ill Mount's Bay . r 7 Mullyon Church 22 Cove 7, 8, 37 Etymology of 2,22 Geology of 3 Island 8 ,. Statistics 2 Mundy, William 85 Names of Farms, &c., in Mullyon 101 Numerals, the Cornish 96 Parson, How lie caught his fish 36 ,, His work at a Wreck 83 Pilchard Fishery, the 33 Predannack Cross 18 Population 112 Public Meeting at Mullyon 66 Rocket Apparatus, The 61 Run of goods at the Chair .,. 46 theVro 49 Scenery 5, 7, 9 Seal, ancient, found at Predannack 19 S. Breaca 24 B.Clare 21, 28 S. Corentin (Cury) 24 S. Gudwal (Gulval) ib. S. Guingaloc (Gunwalloe) ib. S. Malo 2, 22 S. Melanus, &c 22 S. Melina 2 S. Pol (Paul) 23 S. Sampson ib. Smith, Rev. G. C 11 Soap Rock, The 40 Index. 131 PAGE Spurgeon, Rev. C. H 21 Smuggling 44 Surnames, Classical and Scriptural 13 Telegraph Memorial 92 Tumuli, at Angrowse 16 Predannack Downs ,. 17 Vicars of Mullyon, List of 31 Wolf Rock Lighthouse, The 87 Wreck of the Achilles 76 the Arwenack 61 ., the Berthe and Leontine 85 the Boyne 87 the Calcutta's Boat 78 ,, the Cherub, the Mary, and the Ebbw Vale 62 the Chester 59 the Dollard 60 ,, the Diana 92 the Glencoe and the Mary 57 the Jonkheer 68 the John Me Intyre 62 the Maria Louisa 77 the Padre 60 the Remedy 84 Wrecking 51 Wrecks, List of 53 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD ROBARTES . 4 copies. TUB RIGHT HONOURABLE VISCOUNT FALMOUTH. THE RIGHT HONOURABLE EARL MOUNT EDGCUMBE. THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD ELIOT. THE RIGHT REVEREND THE LORD BISHOP OF EXETER . . 4 copies. ' THE RIGHT REVEREND THE LORD BISHOP OF WINCHESTER 4 **- THE VERY REVEREND THE DEAN OF EXETER. THE VENERABLE THE ARCHDEACON OF CORNWALL SIR RICHARD R. VYVYAN, BART.. Tretawarren. SIR JOHN ST. AUBYN, BART., M.P. JOHN TREMAYNE, ESQ., M.P. A. YOUNG, ESQ.. M.P. THE REVEREND PREBENDARY R. H. BARNES. THE REVEREND PREBENDARY R. W. BARNES * copies. THE REVEREND PREBENDARY HEDGELAND. THE REVEREND DR. CAMPION, Queen* College, Cambridge . . 2 copies. THE REVEREND C W. BOASE, Exeter College, Oxford. PROFESSOR J. a BLACKIE, University of Edinburgh. PROFESSOR LEONARD H. COURTENAY. Lincoln's In* .. .. 2 copiex. Anderton, E. D., Falmouth. Bolitho, T. S.. Pemance. Aston, Mrs. Bolitho, W., Jim. St. Aubyn, Rev. A. H. Moksworth, Clffsoance. Borlase, Rev. W. Bancks, Joseph, Broxboume. Borrow, H., Tntro . 4 copies. Barfaam, OKH<~C I M.D., Tntro. Borrow, Rev. H. J. . . . . 2 copies. Batten, Edward, Penzaace. Brinton, Geo., Southampton .. 4 copies*. Babbage, W. P., Tntro, Britton, Rev. T. H. Beaton, J., Tring. Broad, R. R., Sen., Falmeuth. Berry, Rev. A. Broad, W., Berry, J., London, Brougham, Rev. M. N. Belts, Miss Annie. Burch, Arthur, Exeter. Bbdcwcn, Miss, Richmond. Bloxsome, Rev. W. H. Bloxsome, John, Dursley. Boaden, Thomas, Cury. Boase, George, London. Bolitho, J. Bedford, Penzance. Bull, Lieut,-CoL Builocke, Rev. H., Jim. BuDocke, Gustavus. CaldweU, James, Dumbarton. Cams-Wilson, E. S., Penmount z copies. Rev. O. w . i 3 4 List of Subscribers. Carlyon, E. T., Triiro. Carlyon, John, ,, Chappell, Rev. W. P. Chilcott, J. G., Trttro. Church, Rev. G. L. Christoe, W. H., Truro. Clapin, Rev. A. C. Clough, C. B., Chester. Cock, F. H. , Truro .. . . 2 copies. Collins, J. H., Cornwall Library, The Coulson, James W., Penzance. Courtney, W. P., H.M. Customs, London. Crotch, W. D., Richmond. Gumming, Mrs., Exmouth. Dale, William, Helston. Davey, R., Bochym. Davey, S., Davys, H., Penzance. Dix, Rev. E. Dix, W. G., Truro. Dixon, Rev. A. Dobell, Robert, Royal Hotel, Truro. Du Boulay, Rev. H. H. Edmonds, George, Stamford. Edmonds, O., ,, Edwards, G., Mullyon. Evans, J. Bowie, Hereford. 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