BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 JOURNAL OF THOMAS BOYLSTON ADAMS SECRETARY TO THE UNITED STATES LEGATION AT BERLIN EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY By VICTOR HUGO PALTSITS KEEPER OF MANUSCRIPTS NJEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY 1916 BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 JOURNAL OF THOMAS BOYLSTON ADAMS SECRETARY TO THE UNITED STATES LEGATION AT BERLIN EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY By victor HUGO PALTSITS KEEPER OF MANUSCRIPTS THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY 1916 Reprinted January 1916 FROM THE 5ULLETIN OF ThE NeW YoRK PuBLIC LIBRARY OF November 1915 ■Of---- 326078 *-*oC ,. „ M^^ £^^ %J^ "^.u^^ il^..* -^^-^ ^^-^^.^^ ^ ^ ^ e^sMJ^a OA^^^^^^ rr^^J^^- FACSIMILE PAGE FROM THE ADAMS JOURNAL (Original size) BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 JOURNAL OF THOMAS BOYLSTON ADAMS SECRETARY TO THE UNITED STATES LEGATION AT BERLIN Edited from the Original Manuscript in The New York Public Library By Victor Hugo Paltsits, Keeper of Manuscripts INTRODUCTION npHE habit of keeping a daily journal or diary was enjoined upon ■*■ his children by John Adams. In 1778, when his son John Quincy was eleven years old and with him at Passy, in the environs of Paris, he provided him with a blank book in which to keep "a. diary of the Events" that happened to him, of the objects that he saw, and of the persons with whom he conversed from day to day.^ These three features characterize the present journal of Thomas Boylston Adams. It is now printed for the first time from the original manuscript in The New York Public Library. The Library bought it in July of this year from Dr. Charles R. Eastman, the palaeontologist, who had pur- chased it from an acquaintance whilst a student at Harvard College. The journal is written in a small, limp, leather-bound book, measuring about 7 by 4^ inches, and fills 74 pages. President John Adams and Abigail (Smith) Adams had five children, three sons and two daughters, of whom Thomas Boylston, born at Quincy, Mass., on September 15, 1772, was the youngest. He was unmarried when he accompanied his brother John Quincy Adams, only five years his elder, to the Prussian court at Berlin. On May 16, 1805, he married Ann Harod, daughter of Joseph and Ann Harod, of Haverhill, Mass., who survived him many years. They had seven children, four sons and three daughters. One of his sons died while lieutenant of artillery, in the United States Army, and another son died in the navy on Perry's Expedition, in 1853. Thomas Boylston Adams was a graduate of Harvard in the class of 1790. About the time of his marriage he held the office of Memoirs of John Quincy Adams, I: 8. [3: 4 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Representative from Quincy in the legislature of Massachusetts; from 1809-1811, he was Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Massa- chusetts. He died on March 12, 1832, at the age of 59 years and six months.^ On June 1, 1797, President John Adams commissioned his son John Quincy Adams as "Minister Plenipotentiary for the United States of America at the Court of His Majesty the King of Prussia." The son was then at The Hague, where he had been nearly four years, and his brother, Thomas Boylston, had just returned from Paris to accompany him to London, in expectation of setting out from there to Lisbon, whither Washington had transferred the elder Adams. ^ On June 30th, the brothers left The Hague. The course via London was chosen because John Quincy Adams was to fulfil a matrimonial engage- ment into which he had entered with Louisa Catherine Johnson, the second daughter of the United States Minister at London, Joshua John- son, and his wife Catherine. This marriage took place in the church of the parish of All Hallows Barking, on July 26, 1797.^ But on his arrival in London, John Quincy Adams learned that another change of destina- tion was in store for him. Washington had closed his second term as president on March 4th, and John Adams had taken his place in the chief magistracy of the Nation. In the beginning there was a certain feeling of delicacy with respect to the continuance of the new president's sons in the diplomatic service and it is evident that President Adams consulted Washington for his advice. Washington gave it as his "decided opinion"'* that John Quincy Adams was "the most valuable public character we have abroad, and that there remains no doubt in my mind that he will prove himself to be the ablest of our diplomatic corps." He told him that the country "would sustain a loss" if, on account of an "over delicacy" on the part of President Adams, the "talents and worth" of the son were to be ignored. President Adams sent in the nomination of his son on May 20th. The senate tabled the nomination and, when taken up again three days later, debates arose and it was again tabled. When considered anew a week later, an attempt was made to prevent confirmation on the ground that it was "unnecessary to establish a permanent Minister at the Court of Prussia." That motion was withdrawn and then a motion to postpone the nomination until March 10, 1798, was defeated. Other attempts to block the confirmation failed.^ 1 Adams, A. N. Genealogical History of Henry Adams, of Braintree, Mass. (1898), p. 407- 423-424. 2 Writings of J. Q. Adams, ed. by Ford, New York, 1913, vol. II; p. 177; Memoirs, I: 193, 195. ^ Memoirs, I: 199. * Memoirs, I: 193-194. <^ Memoirs, I: 195-197, 199. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 5 John Adams had become convinced that the Nation should not be deprived of the services of his sons simply because he was for the time at the helm of the government. John Quincy Adams had shown particular aversion to serving under his father and had made his senti- ments known to his father and mother in a "formal declaration," yet had been persuaded to waive his opposition. In a letter to his mother, written from London, on July 29th, he said. "I have broken a resolu- tion that I had deliberately formed, and that I still think was right and proper; but I must say that I never acted more reluctantly, and that the tenure by which I am hereafter to hold an office is of such a nature as will take from me all the satisfaction which I have enjoyed hitherto in considering myself as a public servant. It has indeed totally dis- concerted all my arrangements taken in consequence of my previous appointment to Lisbon, and will be very inconvenient to me personally, but these are not circumstances of the sHghtest objection. On the contrary, they have been among the most powerful motives to induce the sacrifice of my resolution, and the determination to go upon the new mission. I am now waiting here only for the necessary papers, which I expect from day to day."^ He received his commission and instructions on September 22, by General Marshall.^ These instructions were to guide him in arranging a renewal of the treaty of amity and commerce with Prussia "for another term of ten years;"^ to seek an alteration with respect to attack by privateers and "the principle that free ships should make free goods," a principle which "the United States have adopted in all their treaties (except that with Great Britain), and which they sincerely desire might become universal.""* The reason why the government of the United States recommended the abandon- ing of this principle was the attitude of the belligerents in the European war. It was "found that neither its obligation by the pretended modern law of nations, nor the solemn stipulations of treaties, secured its observation." On July 17th, the secretary of state wrote John Quincy Adams with regard to it and stated that it had been "made the sport of events"; that "under such circumstances it appeared to the President desirable to avoid renewing an obligation which would probably be enforced when our interest should require its dissolution, and be con- tinued [sic for discontinued] when we could derive some advantage from its observance."^ 1 Writings, ed. by Ford, vol. II, p. 192-193. 2 Ibid, 216. The instructions were dated July 15, 1797. ^ The treaty concluded on September 10, 1785, for ten years, had expired. A new treaty of amity and commerce was concluded on July 11, 1799, and ratified by President Adams on February 19, 1800. *Ibid, 188-191; Memoirs, I: 197. 5 Writings of J. Q. Adams, ed. by Ford. vol. II, p. 189. A third duty of Adams was to renew, if possible, the treaty which Franklin had negotiated with Sweden, in 1783, for fifteen years. — Memoirs, I: 199. 5 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY The Adams party embarked from Gravesend, on October 18th, and anchored at Hamburg at noon of the 26th. Two days later, John Ouincy Adams was apprised that Frederick William II, to whose court he was accredited, was not expected to live.-' The party started from Hamburg on November 2d. They had gone only some twenty-seven miles to Lauenburg, when the post chaise in which the younger Adams travelled, broke down. On November 6th, they reached Biizow and found "the only inn had only one vacant apartment," so "the gentlemen . . . took their lodgings for the night in the common bar room." When they arrived at the gates of Berlin, they were "questioned" by "a dapper lieutenant, who did not know, until one of his private soldiers explained to him, who the United States of America were." Presently, they took up quarters at the Hotel de Russie, otherwise called the Soleil d'Or.^ A few days later, on the morning of November 16th, the Prussian monarch expired at Potsdam. His son, Frederick William III, and the beautiful Crown Princess Louise, now ascended the throne. Adams was left without diplomatic standing, yet, through the good offices of the Prussian ministers of state, he was given an audience by the new king, on the morning of December 5th. On July 5, 1798, he had another private audience with the king, when he delivered his new credential letter.^ The population of Berlin in the year of the accession of Frederick William III was 183, 000. '^ The new king was simple and conscientious in the fulfilment of his obligations as monarch, as well as exemplary in his family life. But he was lacking in the more important administrative abilities, so that corrupt officials sought to ensnare him as they had his father. He scented the evil thereof and tried to create a better standard of conscience among the servants of the state, yet with little success. The nobility looked with disdain upon the burgher class, as though they had been created merely to be bantered and abused. The arrogance of the military classes had become almost unbearable. Young officers in particular, misbehaved themselves in pubHc, insulting the wives and daughters of the citizens, even those of the higher official class. The citizens were dared to make complaint and when they brought charges, the courts-martial favored the military offenders. Among the citizenry, art, science and intelligence took root, whilst the nobility interested themselves more and more in landed estates or participated in the vapidity and vacuity of court life. The nobility I Memoirs, I: 200-201; Writings, II: 221, 232. ^Ibid, I: 202-203. s Writings of J. Q. Adams, ed. by Ford, vol. II, p. 229-231, 237. ^A description of Berlin and an account of its customs in 1796-1798, by W. Quanter, is in the Mittheilungen des Vereins fiir die Geschichte Berlins, 1896, nos. 8-10. A monograph on the Prussian court in 1798, by Dr. Paul Bailleu, is in Heft XXXIV of the Schriften of the same society. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 7 yet held the highest places of honor in the service of the state; but the superior spiritual energy of the citizenry already had begun to make itself felt, for to the burgher class belonged nearly all of the scholars and artists, as well as the wealthiest manufacturers and merchants. Their growing strength in spirit and money opposed the raw might of privilege of the nobility.-' Into this environment came John Ouincy Adams, Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States, and his brother, Thomas Boylston^Adams, Secretary of Legation. The journal of the latter was to its writer "as little edifying as any book" with which he was acquainted, and his life of "no variety." John Quincy Adams closed the year bemoaning the fact that scarcely one evening in the month was free from "some engagement in company," and he added: "This kind of hfe, so contrary to that which my inclination would dictate, is unavoidable. The year has not in any respect been a profitable one to me."^ THE JOURNAL January 1798 M. P* Writing all the morning; at 2 o'Clock went and dined at the Ville de Paris.^ Met nobody that I knew. Came off early and stopped at Casino'* where I met my friend Baron de Rothkirch who introduced me there, and put me in train to be balloted for as a member. Secretary of Saxony there M. Helbig^ Sent cards to some of the foreign Ministers and Secretaries, but made no personal visits. Evening upon my return home found a letter from my friend Ouincy,^ which I little expected. He has made his peace with me by it, and I commenced a reply in form. Tu 2. At home all day; weather vexatiously bad. W. 3. Walk before dinner in the park.^ Weather as usual. Evening at home. Th. 4. Long walk — Evening at home. F. 5. At home till evening; then went with my brother^ to a ball at the 1 Streckfuss, Adolf. 500 Jahre Berliner Geschichfe. Berlin, 1900, p. 461-463. J ^Memoirs, I: 225. y^ 3 The \'ine de Paris was one of the first class hotels of Berlin, located on the Bruderstrass&r^t is also written "Stadt Paris" and "City of Paris." ^_' ^ The Casino was a suite of rooms appropriated for reading the newspapers, journals, etc., and also for dining, card-playing and billiards. It was supported by annual subscriptions upon a liberal footing. Strangers were given full privileges upon introduction by a member. Such places were common in all German towns and, in fact, all over the Continent. They were essentially like the modern gentleman's club. — Reeves, Henry. Journal. .. 1805-6, p. 164-165. ^ He was secretary of the Saxon legation at Berlin. ^Josiah Quincy who was born in 1772 and was president of Harvard College for many years. ' The Tiergarten, the largest park near Berlin, laid out by order of Frederick the Great. . ,, *John Quincy Adams. The details given here of the ball are much fuller than the account of J. Q. A. in Memoirs, I: 215. 8 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Minister of State Heinitz's/ where a numerous party were collected. Their Majesty's the King^ and Queen ^ — the H. Prince of Orange & the Princess. The king's two brothers'* & Prince Augustus;^ and all the nobility, Ministry & Ambassadors. A great number of military Officers, and several Strangers. The Royal family were generally very gracious & affable, tho' somewhat stiff with commoners. The Queen is remarkably beautiful & engaging — She danced much & quite in the present English style. The king likewise danced; the party indeed was made for the Queen & Royal family; it was less formal by much than I should have expected. The Ball finished before 10 o'clock. Among the foreign Envoys whose names I knew were the Russian, Count Panin,^ the Imperial Prince Reuss,'' the French M. Calliart ^ the English, Lord Elgin ^ and the Saxon Count Sinzindorf f ^° & the Palatine, Baron de Posch.^^ The Russian, Prince Subof f ^^ Prince Radziwill,^^ & Prince Charles of Nassau Weilbourg, were also of the party. The latter, who is said to be but 20 years of age, is a very monster in point of size. Met my friend the Baron Rothkirch. Le Marquis de Llano ^"^ was mecontent as usual. Rec*^ a letter from J. Quincy Esq"" of a late date. Sa. 6. Walk; writing most of the day.^^ S. 7 Walk. J. Q. A[dams] dined with the Minister of State Struenzi.^^ Ev^ [Evening] Cassino. M 8 Walk before dinner though not so long as usual. Tu. 9. Met his Majesty in the park returning from his customary walk: his brother the prince Henry was close behind him attended by an Officer — passed both without saluting them. Quer. Was this proper? Dined at M. Schicklers ^^ — our Banker; met there considerable Company, most of whom were strangers to me. Sat at table next a friendly old Gentle- man who conversed freely & pleasantly enough. Young Swiss officer, asked me which was the strongest party in America, i. e. the most numerous; the American party, said L Yes; but I mean, whether the English or french be the strongest. For example, of what party is your President — What's his name? Adams — Oui. Of the American party, said I — Yes but you dont ^ Friedrich Anton, Freiherr von Heynitz, who died in 1802. =" Friedrich Wilhelm III, born August 3, 1770, son and successor of Friedrich Wilhelm II, who died on November 16, 1797. 3 The celebrated, beautiful and unfortunate Luise Auguste Wilhelmine Amalie, Princess of Mecklenburg- Strelitz, who was married to Friedrich Wilhelm in 1793, when he was crown prince of Prussia. She was born on March 10, 1776, and died on July 19, 1810. * Prince Heinrich and Prince Wilhelm. ' Prince Augustus was the youngest son of Prince Ferdinand. * Count Panin, Russian minister at Berlin. The title was created by Catherine II and the line is now extinct. ' Perhaps Prince Heinrich XXV. * The French minister at Berlin who preceded Sieyes. ' English minister at Berlin. ^0 General Friedrich August, Graf von Zinzendorf, Saxon minister at Berlin, 1777-1799. Died in 1806. " Franz Carl, Freiherr von Posch. The title was created in 1793 and is now extinct. " Also Zuboff , a Russian general. 13 Prince Anton Heinrich Radziwill, who married in 1796 the Princess Luise of Prussia, sister of Prince Louis Ferdinand. He died in 1833. ^* Marques de los Llanos. 1= On this evening J. Q. Adams attended a ball given by the Baron von Alvensleben. — Memoirs, I: 215. 1* Karl August von Struensee, who became Prussian minister of state in 1791 and died in 1804. " One of the house of Schickler or Schiickler, makers of arms at Spandau, and bankers at Berlin. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 9 understand me. Here his attention was taken of f by some person speaking to him, and I was glad to be relieved from further explanation. He knew not how much he embarrassed me. Speaking of his own Country he said — "I wish Sir, that the Swiss Cantons were as far removed from France as you are — If they subject my nation to their will, I am firmly resolved to go to America." I thought favorably of the young man for this display of independence. After return from dinner went to the play, & saw der Spieler a German piece of which I understood but little, thin house. — Weather extremely cold. Wed 10*^ Took a long walk in town, in search of skaits — bought a pair, but found no ice. Evening at a ball at the Count Arnim's ^ — the Royal family and all the Court there. Made acquaintance with M"" Garlike Sec^ to the English legation. The ladies were uncommonly brilliant. Came off early. Th 11. Sallied out this morn^ in search of Ice for skaiting found some very good upon the side of the River.^ Skaited an hour or two almost alone. Evening at home. Fri. 12"" Received notice in form of my admission to the Casino, and paid the fees for the first Class of members. Skaiting again; Ev^ [Evening] a little while at the Casino. Sat 13*^ Went upon the ice — great numbers of people there. Ev^ at home. Sun 14*^ Rainy day — at home.^ Mon IS**" Short walk — Evening at Prince Ferdinand's"* by invitation to supper — Introduced by the Baron de Geertz ^ to the prince & by Count Sidow^ to the princess; by Mile Haagen'' to the Landgrave, & by the [blank space-\ to Prince Augustus. Met B[aron] Rothkirch, and passed the evening more satisfactorily than I had anticipated. M. de Sidow made a party of whist for me with the Mad. de Bredow himself & another Count. Stayed — supper & conversed with the two Chamberlains. R[Othkirch] introduced me to Mad the Countess Goltz,^ a fine woman. Tu 16*^^ Walked a little & home all day after. Wed 17*^ Walk of some length — troubled with Rhumatism Ev^ at the Grand Marechal Count Podewils ^ at a splendid ball, like all the rest very tiresome to me. Think it would suit me better to stay at home. Met the usual company. Home at 10^^ quite tired & cross. iGraf Friedrich Wilhelm von Arnim, b. 1739; d. 1801. The title was conferred on him by Friedrich Wilhelm II, of Prussia, in 1786. 2 The Spree. *J. Q. Adams spent this Sunday night at a court ball and supper, and played whist with ^Madame de Lutzow, Mile de Hagen and Count von Moltke. — Memoirs, I: 215. * Prince Ferdinand (b. 1730; d. 1813) was Grand Master of the Order of Malta within the Prussian dominions and resided at the Palace of the Order of Malta. His princess was a daughter of the Margrave of Brandenburg-Schwedt, a cousin of Friedrich Wilhelm II of Prussia. ^ Johann Eustachius von Schlitz, called Gorz. * Also spelled Sydow. ' Perhaps Albertine Ernestine Luise vom Hagen, b. 1779; d. 1852; m. von Motz. * She was perhaps the wife of Count Leopold Heinrich von der Goltz. In 1806 there were as many as twenty-one counts, barons, etc., of this family in the Prussian service. ^ He was grand marshal of the king's court. 10 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Thurs IS^i^ Walk before dinner; Ev^ at the play.^ Rl. f^^ there. Fri. 19*'' Walk as yesterday. Ev^ home. Sat. 20*'' Walk, put letters into the post office, and went to several shops with my brother.^ Sun 2P* Walk in the park — fine day; Ev^ at home. Mon 22^^ Long walk to get rid of rhumatism, very lame. Tu 23*^ Kept house all day on ace* of my lameness. Wed 24 All day at home; even^ at Prince Ferdinand's. Mrs. A[dams] went for the first time. Made acquaintance with M*" the Captain Knoblauch Charge d'aff. of Denmark Played with M. de Sidow M. de Geertz & a channoine or Dom-herr von Posen. Ret^ before supper. Madame Parrella,'* Mad de Goltz were of the party — The princess Louise & her Prince Radziwill were there some part of the Ev^. Mile Neal, dame d'honneur to the princess Louise is a pretty woman. Letters from America via England. Thurs 25 Home till night, then at a ball at the Countess de Haack's ^ — Danced with M" A[dams] the first dance — came off early, & somewhat discontented at the loss of time — Garlike introduced me to Mile Neal, & Mile de Wartensleben. Frid 26*'' Walked after dinner under the trees, though still a cripple. Stopped little while at Casino. Sat. 27*'' Vacant Sun 28*'' Dined at V[ille] de P[aris] sat next one of the young women — very chatty — an English woman there and her husband from Bergen in Norway. Baron Rothkirch; Chev: de la Motte, conversation with them. I talk too much after drinking a bottle of Chatteau margot; must amend. Ret^ [Returning] home stopped a moment at Casino. Mon. 29*'' Walk; less lame than of late. Tues 30*''^ Walk; found the ice would bear; hired Skeats and exercised for half an hour; met a man who rivaled me. Complimented each other, as usual in such cases — "You skeat well Sir." "And so do you Sir." Wed 31^* Change of weather, thaw — skeated again notwithstanding, but was driven off by the rain. Ev^ little time at Casino. Thurs P* February Bad weather, at home. Fri — 2^ M*" Jeffrey from England, last from Hamburg called upon us — Dined with him at the Ville de Paris; introduced to his travelling companion M. Parain a f rench emigrant — Introduced Jeffrey at Casino. Satur 2>^ Walk in the park — M^ J[ef frey] dined with us. 1 The play was Palmira, Princess of Persia, a German translation of an Italian opera, with magnificent scenery, pretty good music and tolerable performers. — Adams, J. Q. Memoirs, I: 216. - Royal family. * John Quincy Adams. * Wife of Marquis Parella, Sardinian minister at Berlin. ^ Also von Hacke. * J. Q. Adams attended a ball on this evening at General Kunheim's, where "more than five hundred persons" were present. It was held in honor of the general's sixty-sixth birthday and fiftieth anniversary of service in the army. — Memoirs, I: 216. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 H Sund 4* Walk — dined at home — afterwards called on J[effrey] at the V[ille] de P[aris] — went to the play, but found no places — came off & played a game of whist at the V[ille] de P[aris] with J[effrey] M. Parain & Baron Rothkirch. Mon 5'^ M"" J[effrey] called to take leave of us. Even^ at Prince Ferdinands — party of whist with Mile de Haagen ^ & others. Tues 6^^ Walk — Even^ at home. Wed 7*'' Walk before dinner — Even^ at Count Zinzindorff's — Tea & Cards — played Cassino for the first time with Mad: de Haugwitz ^ — Mad: de Knoblesdorf f ^ & M. [blank] Conversed with Mile La Comtesse Neal a charming girl. Thurs S**" Walk — Evening some time at Casino. Frid 9*^^ Walk — Bill'ds [Billiards] at Casino with the chambellon.'* Satur 10* At home all day — very busy writing. Sun 11* Walk. Mond 12* Received a letter from my mother ^ of 3 Jan^ and began an answer to it. Ev^ Casino. Tues 13* Short walk. Wed 14* Walk — Ev^ Casino Thurs 15* As yesterday — finished my letter to my mother and sent it off. Friday 16* Walk — purchased a sword — Rec"^ letter from Ross. Saturd 17* Walk — Ev^ at Casino — M'- Belsches Sund 18* Short walk in the park — fine day — Evening at Prince Ferdinand's — Introduced to the Princess Louise & to Prince Radziwil — The young Countess Neal was very gracious — Played whist with Baron Geertz — a polish Count & M Mond 19* Walk of some length — Ev^ short time at Casino Tues 20* Dined at M*" Schicklers with a large Company — Ev^ Billds [Billiards] at Casino with the Count. Wed 21. Walk — passed the day as usual. Thurs 22 Walk — Ev^ at a Ball at the Minister Finckensteins ^ danced with Mile Neal. Came off early. Frid 23"^ Skeated this morning, but the thaw has begun. Satur 24* Short walk — park very wet. Sund 25* A letter to the Sec^ of State '' was found this morn^ in the street by a soldier, and after being carried to several places was at last taken to Lord Elgins, the British Minister, and by him or some of his family, directed to be brought to us. Upon investigating the affair it appears that our German Serv* had entrusted this letter with some others to one of his acquaint- ^ Correctly vom Plagen. 2 Wife of Count Heinrich Christian Curt von Haugwitz. third Prussian minister of state. 3 Wife of Gen. Alexander Friedrich von Knobelsdorf, who became field marshal in 1798 and died in 1799. * Chamberlain. ° Abigail Adams, wife of President John Adams. * Karl Wilhelm, Graf Finck von Finckenstein, who died in 1800. He was the oldest and principal Prussian minister of state. ' Timothy Pickering. 12 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY ance to take to the post office, about a fortnight ago — and paid him the postage for one of the packets — The fellow kept the letter & the money, until this morning, when he either lost or threw the letter in the street. Frederic brought the fellow to us and he confessed the whole matter, apparently much terrified with the menace which Fred, undertook to make of sending him to Jail — He was perhaps of the two not the most culpable. Walk — Ev^ at Casino, Billds [Billiards] with M. de Knoblauch & le Comte de Luttichau.-^ Monday 2G^ As usual — walk — Casino &'^^ Tuesday 27*^ As yesterday — no variety — my journal is as little edify- ing as any book I know of. Wed 28*'' Long walk in town — Dined at the Ville de Paris. Met there Baron Rotkirch. Ev^ at Casino. Thursday P* March. Walk — fine day. Frid 2^ Charming weather — long walk — everybody out. Ev^ Casino — Billds [Billiards] with Rotkirch & Liittichau. Satur 3*^ Ev^ Ball at Prince Ferdinand's — very pleasant. I danced with Mile Dorville Mile Neal & Mile de Molck.^ Sund 4 Short walk — Ev^ Casino & home — Began a letter to my father.^ Mon 5. As. yesterday. Tues 6 Ev^ at the Grand Maitre de Dorville's '^ — Party & Supper & Ball — Danced with La jeune Comtesse Neal. Wed 7. Walk, Casino after dinner — Billds [Billiards] with Liittichau. Thurs 8. Walk — fine day — Ev^ at D'" Browns, where we drank tea & passed the time very pleasantly — quite in the English stile. Company Mile Neal Mesdes' Bruhl,^ Mile Bishopswerder;^ Lord Gower M"" Belsches, & the D" family who are very sociable & well bred — the youngest daughter is very handsome — the other two by no means plain — hope to be better acquainted there. Frid 9 Walk — Ev^ at Casino Satur 10 As yesterday. Sund 11 Walk on the left side of the park, which is laid out with more taste than the other, but very few people prefer at this season taste to comfort, of course few walk there. Ev^ home tho' a little while at Casino. Mond 12 Stormy disagreeable, snowy weather — walked nevertheless in Park — Ev^ at D"" Browns with INI" A[dams] pleasant time — Lord Gower took leave for England — Miss Isabella is a charming girl. M"" A[dams] came — read newspapers & then took us off. Tuesday \Z^^ Walk — Ev^ Casino — billds [billiards] with Liittichau & Whist with M. Helbig — & Darville^ & Knovikoff.^ 1 Perhaps Count Christian Friedrich Tonne von Liittichau, b. 1748. 2 Of the well-known family of von Moltke. * President John Adams. * Louis de Dorville who was "Oberhofmeister der Konigin Elisabeth Christine." He died in 1801. ' The name is von Briihl. ^ Daughter of Johann Rudolph von Bischofswerder. ' Dorville. * Novikoff in other places in this journal. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 13 Wed 14*^ Young Brown ^ called on me & we took a walk together — Ev^ at Casino some time. Thurs 15'^ Walk alone — fine day — Ev^ at D*" Brown's — met Lord Foulkstone there; introduced to him — passed the time pleasantly. Frid 16*^ Called at 10. this morning upon young Brown who took me to see the riding Schools^ — they are kept in a very handsome style. The schools adjoin the king's Stables which are very spacious & well filled with horses. Saw the cavalry exercise in riding — Ev^ Casino. Saturd 17 Walk — Ev^ Casino. Sun 18 As yesterday. Mond 19 M*" A[dams] has had a violent rhumatism in his right arm for several days past, which has prevented him from writing & consequently has given me a respit. He went to the princess Henry's this ev^ & M" A[dams] with self went to D'' Brown's. pleasant girls — M"" Garlike — Mile Bishopswerder. Tues 20 Walk — afternoon Casino. Wed 21 Engaged for some days in reading Martens's Droit de Gens'^ — Walk — Evs Casino. Thurs 22 Bad weather — walked in park — Casino. Frid 23 Walked great part of the way to Charlottenburg with young Brown — Ev^ Casino. Satur 24 The Baron Schultz Minister of Sweden died on Thursday — Walking met Brown on horseback — returned with him — Ev^ Casino. Sun. 25*'^ Walk met B[rown] Ev^ at his house. Mon 26. Took a ride to Charlottenburg on horseback with Brown Tues 27, Walk. Evening at Casino — Mile Neal drank tea at our's. Wed 28^^^ As yesterday — W^ent to the play with B[rown] Hyeronimus Knicker"^ — laughable Comedy rather buffoon — Miss B[ruhl]S & Neal. Thurs 29 Walk before dinner — Ev^ play with Belches — Rothkirch called at D"" Browns, ladies out, Friday 30. Walk — Ev^ Casino. Satur 31 Long walk — bad cold — Casino, Sund P* April Snowed last night & to day — walk cold worse. Mile Neal drank tea with M" A[dams]. Mond: 2. Kept house all day — cold extremely severe quite sick. Tues 3. Cold still very bad; went to Casino for an hour. Wed. 4 Took a long walk which was of service to the cold. Thursd 5 Walk — Casino Met B[rown] on horseback. Frid 6'^ Called on Brown to go with him to the riding school, but being good friday the school was not open — took a ride to Charlottenburg with B[rown] & Belsches. * William Brown. 2 The royal riding academy founded in 1718. * Martens, Georg Friedrich von. Precis du Droit des Gens moderne de I'Europe. Gottingen, 1789. 2 vols. 8°. 'A German operetta by Karl Ditters von Dittersdorf, first published in 1792, and brought out again ' A uerman operetta oy Karl JJitters von JJitt« with alterations by Christian August Vulpius in 1793. 14 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Afternoon at a Concert held at the Opera house — the death of Jesus ^ — Music said to be fine — superb ■ — I went to see the hall, but saw it not. Took leave early and went to D"" Brown's. The Countess Briihl's there. Saturd. 7. Called at Casino; met Rotkirch — took a walk with him & then went to dine at the City of Paris ^ — after dinner at the Catholic Church,^ built in imitation of the Rotunda at Rome — Walk under the trees — Casino — Adventure with Mile Neal. Sund. 8. Walk — Ev^ with Brown & Belsches. Made an acquaintance or two. Mond 9. Went out to Charlottenburg in a Berlin Waggon with young Brown. Met there the young ladies & Mile Bruhl's — The old folks came afterwards — passed a pleasant forenoon with them. Even^ at their house in town M" A[dams] & Neal. Tuesd 10 Walk — Ev^ Casino. Wed 11 As yesterday — Mile Neal drank tea with M^' A[dams]. Thurs 12 Walk — and after dinner another in the Garden of Bellevue — the Country seat of Prince Ferdinand with M. the Chamberlain Katte, whom I take to be an idiot — after tea at Casino — Bill'ds [Billiards]. Frid 13 Called on Brown — Dentist there — employed him — Walk — met Rothkirch & Brown on horse back — Even^ at Casino & home M*"® Brown & Isabella — M"" Richards. Satur 14 Went with Brown to the riding master, engaged for the month to begin Monday next — called at several places — Walk after in Park; started several sorts of game. Casino — Billds [Billiards] with Helbig. Sun 15 Walk with Brown — Evening Play with the Brown family — Play called new Sunday child, in German neusontagskind^ Mond 16 Took my first lesson at the Royal riding Accademy — Ploen, Ritmeister. This School has existed since 1718, and is supported at the King's expence. Walk afterwards — passed the evening at D"" Browns Countess Bruhl & Neal — Dust insufferable. Tuesday 17 Second lesson at eight precisely — several Scholars or learners — the Abbe Comte de Busy is one. Walk before & after dinner — Helbig — Luttichau &'=^ Wed 18 Walk — Casino. Thurs 19 Verry long walk with Comte de Luttichau — wafers at the tents — Third lesson this morning — violent pain in my head, which all my exercise did not remove — half an hour at D'' Browns. Frid 20 Head ach still — The Miss Browns drank tea with M" Adams — young B[rown] came afterwards. 1 Der Tod Jesu, a "Passions-Cantata," composed by Karl Heinrich Graun to words by Ramler. One of the few great oratorios of the second half of the eighteenth century, first executed on March 26, 1755 in the Cathedral of Berlin, and repeated annually for more than a century thereafter during Passion Week. 2 The Hotel Ville de Paris. 2 The Catholic church of St. Hedwig, begfun by Biiring and Le Gay in 1747 and finished by Bouman, the elder, in 1773. It was modelled after the Pantheon at Rome. * This German operetta by Wenzel Mueller was first presented in 1793 at Vienna. The libretto was adapted by Joachim Perinet. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 15 Saturday 21 Pain in my head still continues; kept house & at night took an emetic. Sunday 22^^ Not yet well — Rhumatism in my head & other parts — walk after dinner in the garden of Bellevue. Monday 23d Head still much affected — confident it is the rheumatism. Tues 24'*^ Went to riding school notwithstanding the pain in my head — not much the worse for it. M""^ Brown & Bell drank tea with us. Wed 25*^ Walk in park — Ev^ Casino & D"- Brown's. Thurs 2G^ Riding school — the pain in my head less violent, but not removed — Company to tea. Took a ride with young Brown — He rode an horse, which I think to purchase, like him very well. Friday 27'*' School this morning — Ride — called several times upon M. von Quast to finish the bargain for his horse — could not see him. Saturday 28*^ Called on Quast — gone out — called on Baron Roth- kirch who went with me to buy a saddle — Ride on my horse to Charlottenburg where drank tea with the Miss Browns & Countess Briihls family. Ret"^ to D"" B[rown]S but did not stay [toj supper. Sunday 29*^ Rode out with young Brown to see a lake about 6 miles from town — could not find it — excessively warm — Returning overtook a smart shower. Dined for first time at D'' Browns, D"" at Pottsdam.^ Ev^ Comedy — der baum der diana ^ the piece, fine music — Supp'd at same place — Delivered to M"" Richards the money to pay for my horse. Mond: 30*^ Riding School — Ev^ took a delightful tour on horseback with B[rown] Jun*" through several neighboring villages — Return'd by Tem- plehof — Evening at Casino — Put my horse to a new stable. Tues P* May Dined at M"" Shickler's with considerable company, most of the old club — Rode after dinner to Charlottenburg & returned to supper at D"" Browns — I grow too intimate there. Wed 2'^ Went to the review of troops this morning — about 15,000 Infantry who made a formidable & handsome appearance — the General Mollendorf f •^ is commander in chief. Took a long ride by myself afterwards — Evening some time at Casino. Thurs 3*^ Riding school — Rode by myself after dinner on return found M" Brown & the young ladies at our house — attended them home & supp'd there — Mile Neal. Frid 4'^ School again somewhat advanced. Short walk before dinner, & ride to Charlottenburg after drank tea & returned with D"" & W" Brown — Casino. Saturd 5*^ Ride by myself after dinner. Evening at D"" Browns with M" Adams. 1 Dr. Brown, of Potsdam, an Englishman, was physician to Queen Louise and the royal family. Cf. Reeves, Henry. Jotirnal, p. 177-178. -This operetta was composed by \'incenzo Martini (^lartin y Soler), with Italian libretto by Lorenzo da Ponte. The German version by Christian Gottlob Neefe appeared in 1795, and there was an earlier German translation by Ferdinand Eberl in 1787. » Field Marshal Wichard Joachim Heinrich von Mollendorff, b. 1724; d. 1816. 15 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Sun 6'^' Weather vastly pleasant for near a fortnight past, though very warm and intolerably dusty. Afternoon at Casino — Billds [Billiards] with Liittichau & Helbig. Mon 7^^ Riding school at 7 this morn^, first there — Ride towards night alone — Miss Brown's Miss Estorf f & M"" Garlike at our house — Went home and stayed supper with them. Tuesday 8'^ At School again little past 7. Young Bodoin there. Ride before dinner — afternoon Casino & Count Zinzendorffs at a tea — came off soon & went to D' Browns — young Countess Briihl — M""^ Cohen & her son Johnny. Wed 9*^ Not well yesterday or to day — Took a ride to Charlottenburg after dinner with Brown Jun"" — Return overtook M" Brown & the young ones — saw them home & came off. Dined at V[ille] de P[aris] with Rotkirch. Thurs 10''' Attended a special review of the Infantry — the king was very early upon the ground — great crowd of people and uncomfortably dusty — much gratified. Frid 1 1*'' Review of Cavalry this morn^ — Gens d'armes & Huzzar's — fine troupes — Review began at 5^ and was over at 7. went afterwards to riding school. Rode my own horse, which is grown somewhat too frisky for want of riding. Ev^ Casino & home. Satur 12*^ Ride alone of some length — Ev^ Casino & D'" Browns — M-- Garlike M"" Courtois, Miss Briihls 8i^^ Sun 13'^ Did not ride to day, but took a walk of some length — Casino. Mond 14 Walk again — at School this morning. Ev^ at D*" Browns with Countess Neal & M""^ Adams — I stayed supper. Tues 15 Riding School again — Took a long solitary ride between 1 & 3 — too hot. Wed 16 Out this morning at a review of Infantry — five Regiments out — Manoeuvres well performed — very dusty. Evening the Miss Browns with us, attended them home & stayed supper. Thurs 17. Walk before dinner — excessively hot — Rothkirch at D'' Browns — rode with W" [Browm to Charlottenburg; passed an hour at Count Briihl's ^ — Letters from America. Frid 18 Out at 5}^ to see the exercise of Cavalry — 3 Regiments besides the Hussa's — somewhat amused & gratified. Met Rothkirch & von Quast — Had a narrow escape from a disagreeable accident, by losing my left stirrup. Saturd 19 Dined at M"" Shicklers with a company mostly composed of french emigrants — The Abbe de Balliviere — M^ de Brizac chamberlain of the King of Naples — a Swedish Nobleman Baron d'Armfeld — An Officer of Prince de Conde's Army M de Rouville M"" Taylor an Englishman & one or two others — After coming away from dinner turned to my left & then to my right hand, which took me directly out of town & caused me two hours walking before I could find the way in again — extremely fatigued & worried ' Count Karl Adolph von Briihl. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 17 by the exercise which I was in no condition to bear — find myself quite ill — most unfortunately at this time. Called on Brown & he went with me to buy a sabre — purchased an enamel'd ring and disposed of it. Sund 20 Passed a very sleepless & unpleasant night, owing to indisposi- tion anxiety & fatigue — Rose at 8, did little all day — young B[row]n called — ■ Took a gentle sleep from 5 till 10 & then went to bed — Slept soundly all night notwithstanding. Mond 21 Up at 4^^ and off at 5 to see the review^ — came on the ground when the Cavalry just began their manoeuvres — stayed till it began to rain and threatened more, then came off the field leaving everybody there — got partly wet, but comparatively escaped very well — others were soaked — after dinner called on B[rown] and went with him to see a very useful acquaintance — who told me a secret respecting myself, which I shall not readily forget. Ev^ Miss Br°ns [Browns] at our house. Tuesday 22 Again at Review ^ — liked it better than yesterday Troops perform their evolutions to perfection, though as a soldier I pretend to know nothing of the matter. Returned in good season, called on B[rown] Jun"" & after upon G[arlike]. Wednes 23 Last day of the Review,^ out with my brother in a carriage — weather excessively cold & uncomfortable. Manoeuvres very sensible though rather unintelligible to me — returned by the encampment of the Dragoon's, Regiment of Prince Louis (Ferdinand) Evening at Thurs 24 Introduced at Court, Ball & Supper — came off early with Belsches, very glad when the ceremony was over. The king observed to me — "vous avez ete ici tout cet hyver?" Oui — The Queen — How long have you been at Berlin? Je suis arrive avec mon frere il y a six mois — "Vous vous plaisez ici?" "Infiniment." Prince Henry — Avez vous ete longtems ici ? Environ six mois, mon Seigneur — Prince Charles of Nassau — spoke to me of my uniform enquired how many troops we have upon foot — &''^ Being now one of the initiated I may follow the fashions if agreeable — Court held, first time at the old Pallace. Frid 25 Rode alone before dinner to Charlottenburg and afternoon with young Brown — drank tea there. Satur 26 At home till Ev^ very busy in writing, then at Casino — Bill'^^ [Billiards] with an Englishman — Helbig & Liittichau. Sund 27 Took a ride — Ev^ at D'" Brown's — Baron Rothkirch — MlleEstoff^&'=^ Mond 28 Writing all day very hard Ev^ at D"" B[rown]S with M""" A[dams] after taking a ride with young B[rown] to Charlotbu^. Tues 29 Busy again writing — Ev^ rode with D"" & Brown Jun*". 1 J. Q. Adams states that the review on this day lasted until "between ten and eleven" in the forenoon and that there were five regiments of cavalry and ten regiments of infantry, totalling 26,000 men. — Memoirs, I: 216. 2 According to J. Q. Adams the "reviews and manoeuvres" were finished on this day between nine and ten o'clock in the morning. — Memoirs, I: 217. * No record of this day's review is given in the printed Memoirs of J. Q. Adams. * Estorff. 18 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Wed 30 Paid one month's keeping for my horse Rode to Charlotten- burg with B[rown] Jun"" visited Count Briihl — Company Mad"" Ritezel ^ — Munchhausen — Mile Kale ^ — Mad"" de Berg ^ & her daughter — Mile Neal & Baron Alvensleben — Ret^ with D"" B[rown]. Thurs 31 Engaged all the morning packing up for removal to our new lodgings in the Beren Strass"^ — went & dined there — rode before & after dinner. Friday l^^ June Trying to get settled, in my new apartments — find them very hot — being exposed all the afternoon to the Sun. Took a ride in the evening to Charlottenburg — Two of the Miss Browns gone to stay there — The rest go tomorrow. Satur 2^ Very hot weather — Rode in the even^ to Charlotten^ — Met the young Countess Briihls there waiting the arrival of the Browns, who came out shortly — Heard from Countess Mary Bruhl ^ that a M^ Pirponchet had arrived and entered the prussian service here, and that he was quartered at Charlottenburg, as a subaltern in the garde du corps. Sun 3<^ J. O. A[dams] dined out to day; stayed & dined with M" A[dams] and in the evening went on my nag to Charlott met there M' Richards for the first time — M. Constantini the Italian master — the Briihl's &^^ Mond 4*'' M"" & M""^ A[dams] went to the princess Henry's & self to Chariot^ The Browns & Briihls as usual. Tuesd 5*^ Up this morning at 4 o'Clock; took a walk in the park and afterwards a ride — Gained nothing by my early rising, as was obliged to sleep in the middle of the day — Passed the ev^ [evening] at Bellevue, Chateau Ferdinand — Walk in the garden with a Swedish Count de Thune, whom I never saw before, but who was very chatty — Made a party of whist with him, M"" de Grovestein a Dutch gentleman & Madmoiselle [blank space] terriblement laide^ — Came off as the company went to supper. Wed 6^^ Made up for lost time by sleeping till 9 — which is two hours too late, at least. Ev^ Casino & afterwards a ride — steered clear of Charlot- tenburg for once. Thursday 7*^ Writing very closely till dinner time. Ev^ at a Ball given by M"" Cohen ^ to the beautiful Miss Arnstein a Jewess from Vienna — Com- pany not too large and the Ball Room spacious, but the weather very hot ■ — Danced with M" Hesse Miss Frederica Zeinert & M" Miller — At supper placed next M. Zeinert & made her acquaintance Company chiefly foreigners & strangers — French & Swedish Colony — English & Dutchmen rather numerous — M^ Jaret a boy traveller, quite a brute in behavior — Broke up at 3. 1 The well-known Baroness Riedesel, wife of Baron Friedrich Adolph von Riedesel. '■* Perhaps the daughter of Friedrich Georg von Kail. s Frau von Bergh was a sister of Eleonore, Countess von Neal and was "Hofdame" to the Prin- cess Heinrich. * Behrenstrasse. 5 Maria Sophia von Briihl, daughter of Count Karl Adolph von Briihl and his wife Sophia Gomm. * Frightfully homely. ' Member of the rich Jewish banking house of Cohn at Berlin. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 19 Frid 8"* Up very late this morning and did little business all day — Casino. Satur 9'^ At home till even^ — then rode to Chariot^ — saw the Brown's. Called on Perponchet & met with him Mess" Fagel, Borrele, Grovestein, and another Dutchman — who all came to town in a waggon — P[erponchet] rode on horseback — talked over old affairs and learnt several incidents more or less scandalous of our Hague acquaintance. Sund lO*'^ Rode out with D*" & W[illiam] Brown to dine at Chariot^ with them — Met M"" Cohen & family there, afternoon called on Pirponchet at the Guard, found him on duty — He is Jungcr in the garde du corps — but expects an Officers grade in a few weeks, from a new organization to take place in the Regiment. Ref^ home at 10. Mond 11*'' Rode before dinner — Ev^ presented at the Court of the Princess Henry ^ for the first time — she is a very antique piece of furniture as are most of the female Courtiers whom I saw there — they somewhat resemble as many Chinese Mandarine figures; the palsied head & hand — the tottering knee & the trembling voice, bespeak age & infirmity, which all the glare of rouge or the lustre of jewels cannot conceal. Came off directly after the Princess was seated at her partie — Went to Casino — passed the even^ & supped there. Tuesd 12'*^ Passed the evening at Prince Ferdinands — Played with Count Wartensleben ^ & others whom I knew not, lost a great deal of money at the infernal game of whist. Came home before supper. Wed 13*^ Went towards 2 o'Clock & took a solitary ride — Ev^ rode to Charlottenburg with B[rown] Jun"". Thurs 14-^'^ Rode with B[rown] Jun"" in a new direction — came at length to Charlottenburg, but only to the gate. Friday 15 Began Arschenholtz [sic] history of the 7 years war in Ger- man^ Day as usual — rode to Ch^ [Charlottenburg] met J arret a proper John, rode home with him. Satur 16. After dinner at Casino, met Jaret & M de Brisac — rode after- wards to Cha [Charlottenburg] with B[rown] round by the Artillery Barracks. Supp'd there. Sund 17 Short walk before dinner — Ev^ rode out with D"" B[rown] to Charl^. Met the Baron Alvensleben "* coming away with M. Richards — The Briihl's there — Supp'd. Mon 18. After dinner at Casino — Jaret — Billds [Billiards] with Novikof f — at 12 N' wth m' n — gh b — r v — a — v} ■ Tues 19 Rose at 6>4 and went to see the Artillery exercise — very accurate in their fire — Ev^ took a solitary ride. Wed 20 Rode in the afternoon to Charlottenburg. 1 She was a princess of Hesse-Cassel and about seventy years old. — Adams, J. Q. Memoirs, I: 209. 2 He was perhaps Count Friedrich Ludwig von Wartensleben who married Anna Auguste, Countess von Fleming. »Archenholz, Tohann Wilhelm von. Geschichte des siehenjdhvigen Krieges in Deutschland von 1756 bis 1763. Mannheim, 1793. 2 vols. 8°. * Count Philip Karl von Alvensleben. ° With my neighbor vis-a-vis. 20 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Thurs 21. Stopp'd a little time at Casino, rode afterwards. Frid 22 Afternoon at Casino — Billds [Billiards] with D'Orville, Novi- koff & Jarrat; supp'd there. Satur 23 Letters from America to the 7^^ May — Ev^ rode to Ch^ [Charlottenburg]. Simd 24 Busy times with me, writing constantly — Casino afternoon met Littichau, returned from the Country. Mon 25. Rode before & after dinner — A company from Charlotte of the Browns, Bruhls & Pirponchet made a ride of some length, on the way to Spandau, very fine view of the Spree. Tuesday 26 Writing all day — Rode at night. Wednes. 27 Rode afternoon to Pancho,^ a small village about 2^ miles from Berlin. Thursd 28 Past the day as usual. Frid 29 Took a ride towards night. Satur 30 Walk towards night, met B[rown] Jun & Jarrat. Sund the P*^ July After dinner at Charlottenburg — grow vastly inti- mate there without knowing it myself — Jarrat smoaked me & tried hard to be quizical, but he did not succeed — took a ride near Spandau. Mond 2^ After dinner at Casino — supp'd there; came home after the rain ceased & found myself quite ill. Tuesd 3^^ Passed a bad night, feverish & know not why — not well, but took a ride to drive off the bluedevils, to Chariot^ came home a little better.^ Wed 4*^ Somewhat better to day — Dined at home and remembered the day; a very sober 4*^ however — afternoon at Casino. Thursd 5**^ J Q A[dams] had his audience of reception to day at Char- lottenburg.^ M. Citoyen Sieyes likewise had his. We dined at a Country seat of M'' Schickler at a villiage called Strahlo ^ — Company numerous and all strangers — Mad""^ Kraie of Leipsig was the most interesting lady, though there were several others; one who is a widdowed virgin, very rich. Frid 6*'' At 9 this morning went by invitation to the pallace ^ to see the ceremony of the homage or oath of allegiance taken by the people — The burgers from different parts of the Country and deputies from the several States assembled & took the oath &'=^ About 70, or 80,000 people were collected ^ Pankow. 2 J. O. Adams was informed on this day by Count von Finckenstein that the king "had fixed on Thursday [July Sth] at half -past ten in the forenoon" to give him an audience for the delivery of his letters of credence. — -Memoirs, I: 218. ^J. Q. Adams says that he "entered the palace as the clock struck half-past ten," and adds: "Three other Ministers were appointed at the same time — the new French Minister Sieyes, the Comte de Schall, from the Elector of Bavaria, and the Commandeur de Maisonneuve, from Malta." After his interview with the king, Adams went to arrange for an audience with the queen, whereupon he returned to Berlin "and soon after went out to dine with Mr. Schickler, at Strahlau, about three English miles from Berlin," on the river Spree. There were about thirty-five persons at table, mostly strangers to the Adamses. — Memoirs, I: 219. * The village of Stralau. 5 The events of this ceremony are described by J. Q. Adams, thus: "Between nine and ten this morning went to the royal palace, into the hall called the White Hall, on the third story. We were early. At about ten the King went in procession with his Generals and Ministers to the Dom Church, and heard a sermon. At about twelve he returned, escorted as before, entered the hall, and ascended a throne prepared in it for him. . . In a box at the right, all the foreign Ministers and their Secretaries. . . The Minister de Reck began by a speech addressed to the deputies, which was answered by the president of the deputation, Arnim von Suckow." — A/^)"0!>.j, I: 219-220; also Writings, ed. by Ford, vol. II: 332-335. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 21 as Spectators — The Diplomacy & strangers were admitted to see the homage of the deputies — Several addresses were made; one by Minister de Reck ^ — which was answered by the President of the deputation Arnim. They were said to be very loyal. Afternoon at Charlottenburg &''^ Citizen Sieyes & Secretary Otto^ were present at the ceremony, and appeared to have all eyes turned upon them. The deputies &'^^ were assembled in the White Hall of the palace — His Majesty came in, preceded by the Ministers of State & followed by the young Princes Si"^ He retired after the business was over in the same order. While the addresses were reading the king stood on his throne and seemed to be perfectly composed — The oath of homage was repeated by the deputies with a small display of fervor, but in general it was a vapid & insipid spectacle, at least to an American. Satur 7'^ Ball this evening at Court ;^ went & danced with Countess M. Briihl & Mile de Molck "* — passed a tolerable pleasant time — stayed supper. Sund 8'^ Concert & Te Deum at the Opera House; went for the sake of seeing the building; found it handsome — no relish for the music — D"" Brown & family there — went afterwards to Chariot^ with them, & Jarrett, quite cross about my horse, which has undertaken to be wicked & unmanage- able. Took a ride before dinner — adventure of the raspberries &'^^ Mond 9*^ Rode alone to Charl^ on the right side of the River — Horse went very quiet. Tuesd lO**" Took a long ride on the Pottsdam road, and had a fresh battle with my horse. Wed. 11 Ride afternoon Ch^ — Jarrett there. Thurs 12 Rode with Billy Brown to Ch^ and went upon the River with him in his boat. Frid 13 Afternoon at Ch^ M" Adams there. Satur 14 At Casino met Jarrett & M"" Kent,^ his traveling Tutor; went & drank tea with them at their lodgings. Sun 15 Went to Charl^ on the right side of the River made a long ride. Mon 16 To Ch^ with young Brown; the D"" accompanied us thence to Pi^ickelsdorf ^ an island in the River Havel about 4 m. e7 from Ch^ where we met the young ladies & M Perponcher. The situation very pleasant, commands a view of the River and the town of Spandau. The turnpike began to day on the Chariot^ road. Tues 17. M" A[dams] extremely ill last night ^ — sent for D'' Brown from Ch^ He thinks she must miscarry — poor little woman; how she suffers ! Matrimony these are thy fruits ! Bitter Bitter, M" Brown came to see her. 1 Eberhard Friedrich Christopli Ludwig von der Recke. He died in 1816. 2 He was secretary to the French legation. ' Just before the court ball, J. Q. Adams was given an audience by the queen. The ball was held in the ballroom or "White Hall," where the homage had been paid the king on the preceding day. — Memoirs, I: 221. * Moltke. ^ Kent was a clergyman, who accompanied Jarrett upon his travels. The latter seems to have been the son of a wealthy Jamaica planter. — Adams, J. Q. Memoirs, I: 221. ' Pichelsdorf. ' English miles. * Mrs. John Quincy Adams was Louisa Catherine Johnson, second daughter of Joshua and Catherine Johnson. She was married to Adams on July 26, 1797, in the church of the parish of AH Hallows Barking, London. — Memoirs, I: 199. Her father was United States Consul at London. 22 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Ev^ at Bellevue — Princess &*^^ very inquisitive concerning M" A[dams] told them all I knew & more too. Party with Geertz,^ Grovestein & two other Gent" unknown one of them said to be M. de Haagen^ — came off before supper. Wed IS*'* M" A[dams] yet very ill; went to Charl^ in the evening. Dined at D"" B[rown]S in town; walk in the park before dinner. Thurs 19 Called at Casino; M"" J[arrett] & K[ent] — Ev^ at Chariot^ Frid 20 M" A[dams] somewhat better. Satur 21 Day as usual. Sund 22 Afternoon took a cart & went with Jarrett to Ch^. Mon 23 Rode to Ch^ by the way of Tempelhof, where there was a larger collection of people, met to keep harvest home^ Mess" K[ent] & J[arrett] at D^ B[row]ns. Letters from home of 12 June — unpleasant news for my brother.'* Tues 24 Called on J[arrett] after dinner and went with him to Casino — Bill'ds [Billiards] — returned & took tea at his lodgings. Wed 25 Ride towards night. Thurs 26 Heard of M'' Childs an American gentleman being at V[ille] de P[aris] went & dined there; conversation with M de Quast — Introduced myself to C[hilds] and attended him to see my brother — after tea a walk. Frid 27 Before dinner at Casino — Jarrett — M"" Childs D^ & W" Brown & M'" Richard dined with us. Rode after with W° to Poeckelsdorf,^ where we met the B[row]n & B[ruh]l families; Perponcher & Jarrett. To me not a pleasant party. Satur 28 Rode towards night to Ch^ supped there. Sund 29 Made arrangements for M"" Childs to go with Mess" Kent & Jarrett to Ch^ — rode out horseback — pleasant dinner 14 persons — passed the evening there. Rode home with D^ Brown. Agreed to take lesson on tuesday in fencing, of a french soldier, in Pr[ussian] service. Mond 30. Casino met Jar* afternoon rode with W" Brown to Pancho, to visit Mile Bishoffswerder — not home — went through Shoenhausen to Ch^^ — Miss B[rown] observes — "So I hear you are going away? Alas yes! No help f or't. To part from her will cost a pang — But — Fencing teacher disappointed me. Tuesd 31 Towards Ev^ rode out with W° Brown to Charlottenburg; D'" Br: was sent for by the Queen — W" & self rode express, 20 minutes to town. Wednes the P* of August. Took first lesson in fencing — Went out and took a bath in the river, above the king's garden — first time I have bathed for two or three years in a cold bath. Rode to town with D"" B[row]n — pleasant conversation. 1 Gorz. ^ Correctly vom Hagen. » Erntefest. * Evidently referring to the opposition in Congress to the confirmation of Adams as minister pleni- potentiary at Berlin. 5 Pichelsdorf. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 23 Thurs 2, Bathed again this even^ — appearance of a very heavy storm came up, and it grew so extremely dark that I was persuaded to stay the night at Ch^ — This morn^ 2 lesson in fencing. Frid 3 Up at 4^ & off at 5^ with W"" — fine morning — lesson in german, but nodded very soon over it — Out again at night with B[rown] Jun*" Company — M'' Hamilton an English Gentleman just arrived — pleasant evening, Saturd 4 Dined at V[ille] de Paris; weather excessively hot — M*" Childs wanted me to make a party to Freyenwald with him & two Italian's, strangers to both of us — hesitated whether I should go or not, and finally concluded I would not. Wrote him a note to that effect. Passed the even^ and supp'd at Bellevue walked in the garden with Baron Geertz & an officer of the Gens d'armes — M"" Sloper an Englishman was there and was very chatty — seems to be a favorite of P. R. & A — rather a rattler, but impudent enough to bear himself through. Walked home with him. Sund 5. Fine shower blew up about 11 o'Clock, which cleared the air & lay'd the dust — considerable thunder — the weather has been intensely hot during the past week, this shower is very grateful — 3^ lesson this morn^. Mon 6 At home the morning — Sat off for Pottsdam at }i 5. in company with W" Brown ^ — M"" & M" A[dams] Miss I[sabella] Brown & M"" Childs were in one carriage & Mess" Kent, Jarrat & Hamilton in another. Stopped % an hour at Zeilendorf^ and went the other stage, half way in }i hour; arrived at Henschels Inn ^ an hour sooner than the carriages — Made the necessary arrangements for the night, Supp'd & passed a pleasant evening. Slept in a room with B" Tues 7. Our whole company sat out in Carriages to visit the different palaces &'^^ at 11 o'Clock - — Stopped V^ at the gallery of Paintings which took us nearly two hours to go through — thence to Sans Souci '^ palace the former residence of Fred: II — saw his library & study with the table on which he used to write — The appartments generally handsome; some of them elegant — paintings scattered about in many of them — Saw the grave stone's of 11 dogs, which belonged to old Fritz — the Monarch himself should have been buryed by their side, if his dying injunction has been obeyed — from hence we proceeded to a prospect or Summer house, which commands a very extensive view of the Town of P[Otsdam] the River Havel & the adjacent Country — Artificial ruins at some distance — in the midst of a thick copse of trees produce a pleasant effect. Next to the New Palace,^ built by Fr II immediately at the close of his 7 years war — very shabby externally, resem- bling more an hospital than a palace — Some handsome rooms — spacious but not elegant — Thence to the Marble Palace ^ situated upon the River — Built 1 Thomas B. Adams and William Brown went on horseback. It was "about five in the afternoon." Hamilton was "a young man, going to pass some time at Gottingen." — Adams, J. Q. Memoirs, I: 221. 2 Zehlendorf. »This "Gasthaus" was known as the Sign of the Hermit. On October 10, 1799, J. Q. Adams lodged there. — Memoirs, I: 239. * Sans Souci, the celebrated palace at Potsdam created by Frederick the Great after the Silesian war, as a place of repose. It was built by the architect Knobelsdorf, 1745-1747. = This palace was erected in the style of Palladio by order of Frederick the Great, 1764-1769. « The Marmorpalais built for Friedrich Wilhelm II and finished by Friedrich Wilhelm IV. 24 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY on a small scale but wonderfully neat & rich — the grotto ^ & the hermitage belonging to this palace & the grounds about it are worth seeing more than anything else — Here our labors came to an end, and we returned to town about 5 o'clock heartily fatigued & very hungry.^ After dinner young B[rown] sat off for Charlottenburg & I attended his sister to visit Count & Countess Luzey an old acquaintance of my father — The remainder of even^ at home. Wed 8 Walked with the ladies to see the Soldiers manoeuvre — well performed — they are learning a new exercise; or a trifling variation from the old, which is rather vexatious to them because it is not thought to be an improvement — Weather very warm — Took a game of Bill'ds [Billiards] with M"" Childs — A shower attended with thunder came on while we were out & cooled the air — Dined at 3, and went afterwards to see the manufactory of arms — saw the operation of putting in a britch pin performed & boring a touch-hole — the barrels are made at Spandau — The specimens of guns, which we saw are very heavy weighing upon an average — 12 to 13 pounds weight — well made — they cost about a guinea a piece. Company concluded to stay the night — game of whist. Thurs 9 Settled our bill — (a stout one) and prepared for being off — Took leave of Mess""^ Jarret & Kent & at 11 got under weigh for town ■ — rode slowly the first stage, but found it extravagantly hot. Stopped >4 an hour at Zeilendorf ^ & made our servant ride my horse — the second stage — Six persons in my brothers Carriage — Reached home at 2 — went and dined with Childs at the V[ille] de P[aris] and after dinner went with him & three other persons to the Royal Accademy of Sciences, presided by the Marquis de Luchesini,"^ and heard the reading of two discourses — One his- torical — the other de I'influence des femme sur les Gouvernemens et les Etats — by M. le vi-comte de Goyon a f rench Emigrant — was highly pleased with it — M'' Erman pronounced the first — Called at D"" Browns & drank tea — M^ Hamilton there — went afterwards with him to the Casino. Frid 10 At home till 6>4 — then went to Casino with M^ Childs — Billds [Billiards] — Ev^ tea & cards at Count Zinzindorfs — Whist with his Excellency the ci-devant Avoyer Steiger^ of Berne — La Barron de Reck & M"" de Grovestein — Lost — Come home & found the young Countess Neal at our house. Satur 11 Made up my mind to accompany M"" Childs to Dresden. Went out to Charlottenburg, found Miss F Briihl there; walk on the terrass until the family returned — Supped and had a very dark & dangerous ride home on account of the road. 1 The quaint house on the Spree, built in 1650 by Memhardt. 2 J. Q. Adams gives some observations concerning the visit that are complementary to this account. — Memoirs, I: 221-222. * Zehlendorf. * Hieronymus (or Girolamo), Marchese von Lucchesini, b. 1752; d. 1825. He was of an old patrician house of Lucca and came to Prussia in 1780. = He had been a Swiss magistrate and belonged to the old patrician house of Steiger, of Bern, Switzerland. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 25 Sund 12 Mess" Childs & Hamilton dined with us — Went to Charlotten- burg & took leave of the family. Returned early & packed up my trunk. Mond 13 Sent off my trunk to the V[ille] de Paris and mounted my horse at 9 o'clock — sat off from the V[ille] de P[aris] at 10^ — passed the Carrier without question. Rode about 4 Eng miles & then took to the carriage with Childs on ace* of the intense heat — Reached first stage 3 G. Miles Mittehvalde ^ between 1 & 2 o'Clock; bought a cloth & halter for my horse & proceeded about 3 for Baruth 3 miles — at neither of these places could any Oats be had for my horse — nothing but chopp't straw & rye, of which he would scarcely eat any — The Post Master at this Stage was a brute — a hog. Made the next stage to Luckau 3 miles, at night & arrived at a pretty good Inn or Wirtz- haiis about 6 o'Clock on Tues 14 Found here some oats for my horse; rubb'd him down myself — saw him fed &'^^ — sat off with three horses hence, & with a surly, grumbling postilion Schwager^ because we diminished the number of our horses — made the next stage 2 miles to Sonnenwalde in 4 j^ hours — dined at the tavern kept by a civil intelligent man in comparison. Off at 2 ^^ o'Clock for Elster- werder^ 3 miles — long stage; very hot, and my horse very troublesome — got in at 8 ^, and took measures with the post Master, a clever fellow, for leaving my horse with him until Thursday — made a bargain to have him sent on — took a cold cut — & off at 9 ^ for Grossen Hayn 2 miles, which we came to at 1 in the morn^ — just as a violent thunder gust came on — laid myself down upon a sopha & slept soundly until the horses were ready to start — off at 2 j^ and made this stage in four hours; good roads and good horses — good natured postilion. 4 miles and yet by much the shortest stage we have had. Wed 15 As we approached the town of Dresden, which is situated at the foot of a long hill, we had a fine view of the surrounding banks of the Elbe — the fortress of Konigstein is a very conspicious object — the grounds in the neighborhood well cultivated & interspersed with vineyards — arrived about 6 ^ at the gates, & at the Hotel de Baviere at 7. The rooms & chambers all full, but as a favor to M'' Childs the people offered him a small room for a temporary accommodation, which we accepted. Breakfasted — dressed &'^* — • M"" C[hilds] heard that some of his acquaintance were just gone on a party to Freybourg & he sat off in about 2 hours from our arrival to join them. Dined at Table d'hote with three or four gentlemen — strangers — walked a little afterwards & then came home slept most of the afternoon. Ev^ rec'^ a call from M"" Kent, who arrived about 5 this evening, & could with much difficulty find lodgings — passed an hour very pleasantly — slept in a nut- shell of a room, but very comfortably — weather much cooler. Thurs 16 Called after breakfast upon Mess" Kent & Jarrett sauntered about till dinner time; my horse arrived about 11 o'Clock — got a stable for him — dined at T[able] d'h[6te] again with K[ent] & J[arrett] — & the same ^ Mittenwalde. - These terms are synonymous. "To detail the cheating tricks and impertinence of wagenmeisters, schwagers, Sac, would be a long and thankless task." — Reeve, Henry. Journal of a Residence at Vienna and Berlin in 1805-6, p. 203. * Elsterwerda. 26 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY gentlemen as I met before — conversed freely with them — Afternoon billds [billiards] with J[arrett] walk on the Terrass upon the River, formerly the gardens belonging to Count Briihl's summer house which was razed by the soldiers of Fred: II after taking the town. It commands a fine prospect of the river & neighborhood. Walk after on the Ramparts &^^ & then to the Neu Stadt across the long 15 arch stone bridge — & by the Equestrian Statue of The late Elector, Augustus king of Poland — returned & took tea with K[ent] & J[arrett]. Frid 17 M*" Childs returned last night & lodged in a chamber contiguous to me — called on him this morning & wrote all the forenoon — Dined at T[able] d'h[6te] — & after dinner went to see the public library & collection of porcelain — both objects of curiosity; rain prevented our seeing anything more — returned & passed the even^ at my chamber with the rest of the gentlemen. Satur 18 Called on Mess" K[ent] & J[arrett] and went with them to see the Cabinet of Antiques — a very superb collection, and contains a few»models which for beauty & elegance, expression & grace, carry with them infallible proofs of their origin — I remarked particularly a priestess of Diana — for drapery & expression — Three figures the finding of which first occasioned the discovery of the Herculaneum ^ — One of them a female figure remark- able for the fineness of its drapery — A fragment — the body and arm of a man, most exquisite workmanship — Venus's innumerable, but none very good. These are all the most prominent objects. Several young men were scattered about the gallery, taking sketches as Scholars. Returned & dined at T[able] d h[6te]. afterwards took a ride out towards the baths — M*" Elliot called & offered to present me at Court to morrow if I liked — declined — Walk towards night to see the baths — Passed Ev^ at home. Sund 19 Called upon Childs & went with him to the parade — saw a part of the regiment of the Electors guards — went thence to the catholic church and heard the famous music — The Elector, Electress & daughter — Princes Anthony & Maximilian — & the Electors Sister, Princess Elizabeth were present — Walk afterwards — dined at Table d'hote and went afterwards to the Lincks-bath where we met a collection of the ugliest women I ever saw — Childs agreed to meet us there but failed, and we discovered the cause of it, which gave us some room for remark — Crossed the river with M"" Kent and returned to his lodgings. Mond 20 Sat off with Messieurs Kent & Jarrett to visit the Fortress of Konigstein, 3 G M. from Dresden — passed through Pyrna^ & ordered dinner there — overtook on the road a Company of Poles bound on the same errand as ourselves; reached the Fortress at 10 ^ and went over it; heard the interesting particulars of its history, which was interpreted to us by one of the Polish gentlemen; made acquaintance with them & found them very clever ^ These three statues were found at Herculaneum in 1706. 2 Pirna. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 27 — Lillienstein a rock at about an E M — distance from the Fortress is still higher, but more accessable — The Elbe is very interesting at this place, and our party joined an equal number of the poles to descend it in a boat, by which we had a fair view of its lofty banks, which on one side are entirely of huge rocks — passed the ruins of two robber Castles — Dined at Pyrna about 4 Yz and took leave of our fellow passengers, whom we found to be inhabitants of Wilna in Lithuania, one of them D"" of Medicine a very intelligent & agreeable young man. Returned by 9 to Dresden. Tuesday 2P* Went with K[ent] & J[arrett] to the picture gallery both before & after dinner — found it exceed my expectations in point of number & arrangement, but not in the quality & merit of the paintings. Walk about town, & towards night took a ride upon my horse of about 5 E. M. to the foot of some very high hills. Returned to tea at K[ent] & J[arrett]S. Wed 22 Took breakfast with Mess""^ K[ent] & J[arrett] — and sat off for Tharand a valley upon the banks of the Weiseritz. Stopped at a tea house for M'". Childs to get breakfast — then at a place called Potz-Chappel, where we mounted a hill which commands a fine prospect of the surrounding Country. Passed the valley of Plauen & arrived about 10 o'Clock at Tharand. Ascended a Mountain upon the left bank of the River, the access to which is much facilitated as well as rendered pleasant by a foot path made at the expence of a Company who frequent the place. It is serpentine & extends from top to bottom with seats as resting places at convenient distances. We were joined by M*" C[hild]S party consisting of a Russian Lady and her companion M"" C[hild]S friend — a Russian gentleman & a son of the Rus" lady — After dinner we visited the ruins of a robber Castle and ascended the Right side of the river, where the mountain is still higher than the other, and the walk arranged in a similar style — A buste of Gessner the poet is placed at the center of the hill and a small pavillion at the top. The view from hence is one of the finest I ever saw. Made all our observations from the summit and as soon as we descended prepared to be off for Freyburg. Took leave of the company at 5 and after a rough & tiresome ride of 4 hours arrived at the Golden Star^ in the town of F[reybur]g. Thurs 23 Up at 6 and obtained of Mess" Schmidt & Charpentier — Directors or Overseers of the mines, the usual permit for seeing the works and then proceeded to the Ciirfurst or Electors mine where we were received by the head man or superintendant, and after equiping ourselves in Miners cloths we took our departure Jarrett & self with the Conductor to visit the inmost recesses of the subterranean cells — We descended only half the depth of the mine 250 Ells or 500 feet — passed through the veins — saw the workmen employed and reascended to light in about two hours from the time of entry. Saw the machines for extracting the water & the ore and the several processes to pre- pare the ore to be received at the Smelting or Amalgamating house and then went to see it there in its several stages of purification & separation, but for want of a proper interpreter we understood very little of the process. Returned 28 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY to Freyburg to dinner and at 5 o'Clock sat off for Dresden where we arrived safely at 10 5^. Frid 24 Rec'^ a letter from my brother from Berlin enclosing one from M"" Pitcairn — Engaged till dinner time in answering J. Q. A[dam]S letter, and at dinner met Mess'^^ Taylor & Bassett, who have just returned from a tour through Bohemia — After dinner went to see the Cabinet of natural history, minerology Si""^ at which we passed nearly three hours — Took a walk afterwards with Mess""® Kent & Taylor in the gardens of Prince Anthony and Moshinski ^ — the latter famous as having been chosen by the K of P[russia] Fred II for one of his parrallells — some of the works are still visible, indeed — wherever you turn your eyes in the neighborhood of this town there are traces of this Monarch little favorable to his character — though as a Con- queror he might exercise severities, yet he would have appeared more amiable to posterity had he exercised more forbearance. Returned and took tea at M"" Kents lodgings. Satur 25 Went with Mess" K[ent], J[arrett] and Foster, a young English- man lately arrived to see the Electors hunting seat at Moritzburg — 2 G M from town. The weather was unfavorable for walking and we therefore lost in a great degree the object of our tour — Went on board the hrig which is moored in a small lake, which serves as a fishing pond to the Elector. The See Shiff as she is called, is certainly not a model in the art of naval architec- ture, but the Cabin affords a shelter from the Sun & rain and a room for the Elector and his suite to dine in. There is a sort of palace here and a small chateau arranged by the Electors favorite Count Marcolini — a pheasantry and pleasure grounds, which the wind & rain prevented our seeing to advantage — Dined at an Inn near the palace where we met two Englishmen who joined at their own solicitation, our mess — Returned to town about 5 j^ little satisfied with our jaunt. Drank tea & passed the Ev^ with K[ent] & J[arrett]. Sund 26 Childs called on me — went together to see the Lutheran church & thence to the Chappel, where I saw a young lady from Hamburg ( Mile Vidal) whom I had seen there last fall. Called on M'" Foster at the Hotel de Pologne — dined at T[able] d'h[6te] & sat next Mons*" de Leg ^ — who charged me with his comp^ for M de Posch at Berlin — A french-wine-merchant came in while we were at dinner — just from Prague where he had experienced some embarassment from the Custom-house officers on ace* of suspicions entertained against him &''^ M"" Basset who had heard a little of the history before, said that the man was a little equivocal, perhaps. His appearance is that of a jolly Bacchus and answers very well to his trade. After dinner accompanied Mess'^ Kent & Jarrett to Poelnitz ^ — crossed the River upon a sort of Pontoon bridge — ascended the Boertzberg"* a very high hill, which took us 50 minutes to reach its top. The prospect from its summit is very 1 Evidently of the house of Mosczenski, also Moschinski. 2 Legge. 3 Pilnitz. * Borsberg or Porsberg. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 29 extensive and in perfectly clear sky more than 100 vilages fall under the eye; the weather was unfortunately rainy and obscure, so that we lost the best part of the view, though we saw enough to convince us of the properties it really possesses. Descended by a route not levelled like the usual foot path & less circuitous — The Elector who principally resides here in Summer takes this walk regularly three times a week. Saw the Chateau where the famous con- ferences ^ were held between the Emperor of Germany & the King of Prussia — Returned to town, drank tea & passed the evening with Mess" K[ent,] J[arrett] Basset & Taylor. The latter set off tomorrow for Freyburg. Mond 27 Went to the Diplomatic Society or Casino resembling very much ours at Berlin; sauntered till dinner time, and after dinner, went to see the Green Gewelbe ^ or Electoral Treasure of Gold, Silver & precious stones — marble pearl ^.""^ a part of the plate used at the ceremony of the Coronation of the Emperor of Germany, which is always sent for that purpose to Francfort on the Main — The Elector of Saxony as Treasurer of the Empire has the keeping of it. We were dazzled with the splendor of so much nominal wealth in so small a compass. Ev^ as usual — Took leave of my friends. Tues 28 Up at 6 and after paying off called on M'' Childs to take leave. Off at a little before 9. Took the Leipzig road by way of a change & after paying the toll, discovered my error — struck across through a bye road & soon got into the right one. Weather threatening rain & actually dropping a little. Jogg'd on to Grossen hayn & came to the Inn about 12 yi. dined — fed my horse & proceeded at 2 ^4 to Elsterwerda, where I came at 4 ;^ — Post Master tolerably civil & the old hostler very much so — The post arrived with several passengers at 9 — Claimed my seat & had to pay Beer Geld ^ to Postilion for the two first stages, so that I saved not a farthing by using my own equi- page. Started at 10. with a dull prospect for the night; took a seat by the side of an Hamburger, who bothered me very soon with his questions, to which I could make but short answers. Slept some, tho' at the risk of falling out of the Cart Coach — Came at 5 ^^ to Sonnenwalde, where after providing at the Tavern for my horse took some coffee for self. Wed 29 Mounted my horse and went on to Luckau — got in an hour before the post. Put up at the tavern where the host would give me no chamber, saying he had none, which was a lie, for when the post came in he found a chamber for the passengers — Dined sparingly for a good reason & as I since learn, paid just double for my dinner, to what was paid by my traveling com- panions & for exactly the same fare — so much for my bad German, or rather for being a stranger. Started a-fresh at 12 ^ — One of the passengers who had possessed himself of my seat, made no offer to resign it to me and rather than make disturbance, took up with a seat with the driver — we had proceeded but a short distance before the said polite gentleman discovered that some of his luggage was missing & he was obliged to return for it — As my seat thereby became vacant, I made no scruple to replacing myself in it, in prefer- iln 1791. 2 Grune Gewolbe or cabinet of jewels. * A "tip" or gratuity. 30 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY ence to being jolted unmercifully in front with Schwager} The man soon returned with his package & very acrimoniously as well as sour-lookingly apostrophized. Und mein plats wider hesetztf Ja, said I — the place was first mine — without more words he very quietly took the seat he bef or[e] occupied and was I am very sure sufficiently punished for his intended usurpation by the bone breaking jolts he received. Came to Baruth at 7 ^ and got something quite clever to eat at Post Masters. Fed my horse with oats brought from Elsterwerda & at 9 ^^, started for Mittenwalde — Night unpleasantly cold & the stage extraordinarily tedious — came about day break to the town. The under Officer who examined us was more sleeping than awake and satisfied his curiosity with the names of about half the passengers. A timely shower had much damped his curiosity. My horse fared hard here, for the rascally Postilion who had my oats in his sack instead of delivering them over at the last stage to his comrad, appropriated them to his own use — the discovery of which very much irritated my nerves & darkened the complexion of my language — I could have eaten the fellows heart if I could have come at it. The last stage begins with Thursd 30 After breakfasting upon coffee at 5 ^ started for Berlin and had a most uncomfortable ride on account of the wind — reached post office at 11 3^ and after due examination of baggage, came home at 12 and found M"" & M" A[dams] in good health. Drest myself & layed [sic] down — called soon after to dinner, but preferred sleeping — which I did till 9, when I got up and went to supper. Frid 31 Forenoon at home, after called at D*" Browns & saw M'' Richard, Brown's Sen"" & Jun"" drank tea there — M^ Metcalf. Satur P* September. After dinner went in carriage with M" A[dams] to Charlottenburg. Met the family in good health — Miss Briihl's there. Came home early on ace* of the roads. Sund 2 Rode out about 2 >^ to Charl^ with D"" & W™ [Brownj M-" Gar- like joined us. Dined & passed the Ev^ — had a very dark uncomfortable time on my return to town. Mond 3. Went towards even^ with Brown Jun"" to purchase a hat — Gave Rx T^ — for one. Returned & walked with B[rown] near to the tents. Tuesd 4 Rode out with B[rown] Jun"" to Ch^ found there Mess" Richards & Courtois — walked a long time on the terrass — Supp'd and then had a little hop in commemoration of M" B[rown]S birth day. I lodged there. Wed 5 Afternoon at Casino — At 6 went out with B[rown] in their peasants cart; dull ride. Spoke a Cart driver to call for me at 9, he failed and I was obliged to stay the night. Had a fine game of romps with the girls. Thurs 6 Walked in to town between 7 & 8. At home 'till 2 ^ then went into town with B[rown] to buy some articles — Afternoon went with D'' & W. B[rown] to Pancko ^ to see Mile Bishof f swerder — met there Mad la Comtesse ^ Postillion. 2 Rix Thaler. * Pankow. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 31 Pannin — Mad Rochammont — the Countess Graf fski — Sister to Mile B ^ Mile E Zeinert and Mad. B — the mother. Mess" Musquits ^ & Annadia — M"" Garlike who introduced me to Countess Pannin — Stayed an hour & then returned & passed the ev^ at D"" Browns — M'' D there English Consul at Memmel — Backgammon with him. Frid: 7 Went into town before dinner with W™ Brown called at Petra's book-store & bought a book — Evg^ at Casino & at D"" Brown's; took leave of Billy.3 Satur 8*^ At home till 6 in the even^ then at Casino — Billds [Billiards] with Count Podewills. Sun 9*'' Forenoon at home — afternoon at Ch^ at M"" Cohen's where were the Browns and M"" Richard — home in good season. Mond: 10 Walk in the park before dinner & afternoon at Ch^. Called after return on M"" Richards. Tues 11 At home till night, then at Casino — walk about town & under the Linden. Wed: 12 Dined at Ch^ upon Venison. Mad""^ & Mile Bishoffswerder there. Mad"^ Countess H^ Briihl & Mary. Home in season. Thurs 13 At home very busy till evening — then at Casino — Heard of M'' Welsh's arrival."^ Frid 14 As yesterday — wrote to my mother. Satur. 15 My birth day^ — Nothing remarkable to distinguish it from the other days of the year. M"" Richards dined with us & I took a ride to Ch^ afterwards — gone but 2 hours — Ev^ at home. Sund 16*'' Ev^ at Bellevue, but came off early with M""^ Adams. Mond 17*^ Out before 6 this morning to see the Manoeuvres which were clever enough, rode home with M de Sievers — afternoon at Charlotten- burg & ev^ at Casino — Billds [Billiards] with Novikof f . Tues 18*^ Manoeuvres again to day; far the prettiest of any — battle — Ev^ Casino. Wed 19*^ Evening at Charl^ — walk in the Kings garden, belonging to the palace — very pretty — the B[row]ns & Briihls. Called at the Countess, who is recovering from a severe ague & fever. Thurs: 20 Fine day — dined early & went out soon after to Ch^ — Countess Briihl at M" Browns. Walk again in the Palace garden with the young ones. Frid 2P* Ev^ at the Play — Opera — der hamn der diana — which have seen once or twice before. Music very pretty. Met Novikof f there. Satur 22*^ Went again to the play — not much amused — met Ouast there — he has been ill with the ague — afterwards at Casino — Billds [Bil- liards] with Novikoff. ^ Perhaps Briihl. 2 Evidently of the family of JMuschwitz. 3 William Brown. * Thomas Welsh, son of Dr. Thomas Welsh. He succeeded Thomas B. Adams in the post of secretary to the Legation. ^He was born on September 15, 1772. 32 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Snnd 23'^ Went out in a peasants Cart to Charl^ with M. Richard — dined there — returned same way & had an uncomfortable ride, on account of the dust raised by the carriages returning from the Pottsdam Reviews, Mon 24 M"" Richard's dined with us — sat late after dinner — took a short ride nevertheless — Ev^ M"" Garlike — called on us — passed it myself with M" A[dams] M"" A[dams] at Princess Henry's. Tues 25 After dinner rode to Ch^ — found the young ladies the Briihls & Courtois in the palace garden. Stayed late — Rained a little — went to Casino as soon as my horse was disposed of & met M"" Coesmar Russian Lega- tion Sec^ — talked a good deal. Wed 26 After dinner at Casino — Ev^ Bellevue — whist with Minister Heinitz, Baron Geertz & M*" Foster — lost — and was angry — the third time within a few months & almost every time I have played, that I lose by the cursed ignorant negligence of my partner — Cards will not suit my temper at this rate. Thurs 27 Went out with Mess" Foster & Garlike on horseback to Ch^ and dined there with M"" & M" A[dams] Stayed till 7 >4 & then ret^ with F[Oster]. Frid 28. Went into town & did some, errands — after dinner went out to Charlottenburg — walked to hunt out the young ladies in Palace garden — found and ref^ with them to tea at Countess Briihl's — Perponcher took leave of them — & ret<^ to town about 8 >4 — went to Casino; met Foster there and went with him to Burghers — saw what was to be seen, and did what was to be done — home late. Satur 29 M"" T[homas] Welsh arrived last evening and breakfasted with us this morning — Spent the day in packing up and preparing to be off — Mess" Welsh & Richards dined with us — Introduced W[elsh] to Casino — Garlike called & said good bye — Went with M" A[dams] to the Accademy exhibition of paintings — saw Foster there Before going to bed wrote a note to M" Brown. Sunday 30*'' Called at 4 ^ — went to Post office in carriage & arrived there in good season — 5 ^ before we started — Three fellow travellers at setting out; took up another at Schoneberg — which completed our number for the first seats — behind were three other persons — serv*' to the other passen- gers &''^ At Zeilendorf,^ the half way house, found that one of the passengers, old kanfnian Laurent spoke french — and on the road to P[Otsda]m; another Captain Meyer, this discovery was a considerable relief — Student Matthy's and the other passenger spoke only German — upon arrival at Potsdam went with M. Laurent to a Gasthaus/ and took breakfast — joined by the three Students of Halle, two of whom travel in the bye waggon — met here a finical, petit maitre,^ whom I knew by his monkyish appearance at once, having seen him often in Holland at the dancing assemblies — he is an officer in the regi- ment of Waldeck — spoke to him — he recollected me — but we dont know 1 Zehlendorf. 2 Inn. 3 A fop. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 33 each others names — he was very civil & seemed quite happy to meet an old acquaintance, though we never before spoke to each other. Started a fresh and had a very tedious ride — dined poorly — supped at Treuenbreitzen ^ upon potatoes, very fine — well served & neat house, about 12 ^ arrived at Portsdorf^ where we changed Waggons with one that arrived soon after us, full of passengers from Halle; most of them Students. Monday P' October Off at 2 J^ and slept most of the way to the next Post hause at [Original blank] near Wittemberg — very good breakfast served by a very tidy & pretty waiting maid — arrived at Dessau 12 3^ — dined at the golden Ring with the rest of the passengers, who were off at 1 ^ — Took a walk about town, and in the park — thence to the burying ground, which is quite a curiosity; as all the bodies are placed in cells built with brick & plaistered inside — against a wall with inscriptions upon the top or on a square plate of white composition, in likeness of marble. There are here two Rivers — the Elbe & the Molde both considerably large; the latter empties itself into the former at a short distance from the town. Tuesd 2^ Up at 8 — Rainy wxather — kept house & dined at 12 ^ at Table d'Hote. Consulted the Kallender and find that the Post waggon for Brunswic goes tomorrow at 12 — This town is the residence of a Saxon prince whose titles are as follows — Leopold Frederic Franz — Fiirst von Anhalt — Herzog zu Sachsen — Engern und Westphalien — Graf zu Asca- nen, Herr zu Zerbst, Bernburg; &''^ &'=^ &*'^ The town of Dessau is situated upon the river Molde which falls into the Elbe a little below it. Tried very hard to amuse myself, but did not succeed. Short walk towards night. Wed 3^^ Up 5 >4 & of f 7 ^ for Worlitz — breakfasted there after a very cold ride — Went to the Prince's Pallace & overran it in a little time; making few remarks & seeing little worthy of them — The place altogether; house & garden is professedly in the English Stile — I was pleased with both, but my deliberate opinion is, that they neither pay the time, expence, or trouble, of going out of one's way to see them. In the house noticed a painting, (quite large) of a bathing scene of females, in which they are surprised by a male intruder — rather well than otherwise, for any body to have done — Extremely so for a lady and princess. The library of the Prince contains many of the best Authors, A & M ^ & in several languages — it is but a small cabinet however & contains a vast number of busts in relief of all the great men A & M. Hurried through the house and garden in the idea of getting back [tO] Dessau before 12. The grounds are actually handsomly laid out, and the style may be English. I saw only a few of the temples &" but in other places I have seen as good. The Host at the Inn, asked me of what nation I was. Told him American — He said, he had been there — In North America, said I ? Yes! Three times in Boston Philad^ & N York — He rattled over fifty questions in a minute — spoke one or two words of french & as many of English, and continued by telling me I spoke fine German — From a question Treuenbrietzen, a Prussian town. ■ Postorf. Ancient and modern. 34 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY or two he asked, I thought he could not have been in America, but when I came to tell my v.d.p. of the circumstance, he put it at once beyond a doubt that the man was a traveller upon Alaps but neither by sea or land, for he says to every person that goes there if he can find them out, that he has been in their Country — He is no favorite with my vallet. Upon return, applied for a seat in the stage for Magdeburg, but found it only went 2 miles & then waited for the stage of tomorrow — concluded to stay the night at Dessau & annoyed myself extremely. Took a walk in the park & ogled a couple of young girls, who returned it with interest, but though I thought myself invited, I dared not speak to them, for one reason only, namely lest they should not understand me — Ev^ by self. Thursday 4*'' Paid a very heavy bill; cursed and quit the Golden Ring at 7 o'clock in the morning with the appearance of bad weather — but as my carriage was close felt little concern on that account, and rather than have stayed another day in the place, I would have braved storms tempests & even ordinary post waggons. The weather cleared up fine about 11 o'Clock, and over a good road we travelled at the rate of a G. M. in five quarters of an hour. Arrived at Gnadaii, a neat little town or village, inhabited by Moravians or Heerenhilttcrs. The tavern is one of the cleanest & most decent I have yet seen — perhaps it claims the first place. Dined comfortably in company with a fellow traveller and spoke a great deal of bad German — proud however of being able to make myself understood. Started again at 2 ^ and came to the Gate of Magdeburg, at 4 ^, detained there & with the examination of baggage ^ of an hour. Came to the K[ing] of Prussia Hotel & took a Vallet de place, who like the one at Dessau spoke only german. The day's ride has been comparatively very pleasant, though lonely — The road at this season is in fine order, and through a Country covered with villages and land which has the credit of being very rich. Saw much appearance of industry & cultivation. At Gnadau there is a steel manufactory. Went to the play & saw, a piece translated from the french of Huber, called Offnen Fehde and an after piece of Kotzebue called der man von viert- zig Jahr which I think to be taken from the man of feeling very exactly. The theatre is really very pretty; upon a small scale, but very nicely arranged; especially the Pitt. The Actors were very tolerable; Company very thin, but one beautiful girl in the number. Returned to Supper quite satisfied with first impressions. Frid: 5* After breakfast took a walk to the parade first where I saw a poor soldier who was to run the Gauntlet ten times through a file of 200 of his comrads. He heard his sentence read without emotion & took 400 of his 2,000 lashes without a groan. I could bear to see no more. Thence, went to the Dome or Dome Church — a very large & ancient Gothic building — venerable for its antiquity as well as for the curiosities it contains. To me the most remark- able, though not the most ancient — are the 16 paintings, representing the sufferings & crucifiction of Christ, by Lucas Kraner. They are nearly or quite 300 years old & the colours are yet perfectly fresh. The Groupe of BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 35 Christ & the 12, equals for expression of countenance & propriety (according to my idea of design) the best painting I ever saw. This Church is of all the curiosities I have seen in Germany — the most remarkable, as a monument of art & antiquity. Walked round the princesses Walde upon the margin of the Elbe & crossed over a bridge to the Citadel — a state prison, where LaFayette & his suite were confined 3 months^ previous to their being transported to Olmutz.^ Returning saw a number of mills, anchored in the River with the appurtenances. Magd:^ is a considerable manufacturing town & its vicinity to Leipsig gives it the benefit of the fair's at that place; of one of which this is the season. Dined at T[able] d'hote — paid my Bill — (very reasonable) and sat off at 3 for Brunswick in a chaise — arrived at 8 at a miserable house where was obliged to pass the night. Saturday 6*^ Up at 4 ^ & off at 5 ^, had rather an uncomfortable ride; roads not very good to Helmstadt. My old man would have his way, which was to avoid going through the town, and as one of his horses was lame, I did not insist upon it. Overtook a female traveller, in a chaise like mine, alone & going to Brunswick. Postilions proposed our joining company that one of them might return, but the lady was old & uninviting. I therefore declined. We were compelled to dine together however, but my purpose of riding alone was thereby the more confirmed. The turnpike is very miserable, my carriage almost without springs, which made the afternoon ride intoler- able. Arrived at Brunswick at 4 — The old man took me as usual to a very unpromising Hotel called deiitschen Jiaiis in the Jimgfer Strasse, where after discharging him — dressed and took a walk upon the Ramparts & returned through the Pallace garden. Supp'd at the Hotel d'Angleterre very well for II Giiten groschen. Sund 7^^ Walked about town — dined at H[Otel] d'Ang^ find nobody going to Hamburg — Ev^ at the play saw a piece translated from the f rench Visitandines called in German, die Urselinerinnen'^ and [an] after piece called the Stammbaum or geneological tree — Supp'd at Hotel d'Ang. Mond 8*^ Ordered a Carriage & Post horses and was off precisely at 10 o'clock — rode all day & reached Celle or Zelle at 7 }^ — detained two hours and was imposed on by Waggon master & postilion — -.got off about 9 and did not reach the next stage of 2 ^ M till 2 — kept about an hour & then off. Tuesd 9 — Had made but a few roods from the Post house before the Postilion made a signal and two men appeared at the side of the waggon & the Post" turned to me and begged permission to take them up. I did not like, but could not refuse it — they got in & sat very quietly out side — the first stop we made found they spoke french — & that one of them was an Emigrant, the other a student at some University — Took them along in this manner » In 1792. - Olmiitz, where Lafayette was confined until 1797. ^ Magdeburg. * Les \'isitandines, a comic opera, composed by Francois Devienne, with libretto by Louis Benoit, first produced in the original in 1792. The German version, under the title of Die Ursulinerinnen, was made by Heinrich Gottlieb Schmieder and was first performed at Hamburg in May, 1798. S6 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY two long stages & was much obliged to them for their company — as they turned out to be above the common run and had conversation enough for the occasion — a most tedious road & vexatious beyond bearing — Made the last stage 3 M alone; as the gentlemen chose to go forward while I stopped for fresh horses — Met at Stage house a Gentleman & two ladies just arrived, belonging to Berlin but coming from Munich going on to Harburg ^ — got off about 3 }i and reached the Konig von Schzveden at 8. The Carriage and four had arrived before me, but the walkers had not come in — Supp'd & retired to my room — The Pedestrians came in soon after with an old peasant whom they hired as a guide, having lost their road & strayed wide from the direct way. Wed lO^'' Up at 6 & off at 7. in the boat for Hamburg, which was crowded with goods & passengers — nearly 3 hours before we got on shore at Hamburg — A waterman took my trunk on his shoulder & we tried to get in at the K[ing] of Engl"^ but found it full — went & found a chamber at the Oher Geselschaft near the Exchange — Dressed took a vallet de Place & went to call upon Pitcairn, who was out — went on Change & met a number of my old dutch acquaintances Clerks in the house, which M"" Beeldemaker has established here — M*" Havart — M"" Rogers — Childs — introduced to M*" Brush of New York — Dined with Childs at a Table d'hote and afterwards called on Pitcairn, where was a considerable company of the old Senators & Merchants of the town Sir James Crauford the Eng Minister — M"" Pop, Schramm After the company was off — went with Rogers & Pitcairn to the f rench play — Saw some fine acting & dancing — Returned to supper at P[itcairn]S & found Childs there — Home little before 12. Thursd 1 V^ Called on M^ Havart at the K[ing] of Engl<^ He sent for M"" Bicker Carton, who came in soon after — very glad to see him — Called on Pitcairn & got some things out of my trunk — Returned home & then to Havarts who took me in company with an old Countryman of his to dine at the Dutch Cof fe [sic] house out of town — Met there a company of 12 clever Dutchmen — had a fine dinner & passed a very pleasant time — Returned in time for the f r [French] Play — went & saw the School for Mothers &''^ pretty well performed — Met Childs & Brush — Supped with them at K[ing] of E[ngland]. Frid 12 Dined with Pitcairn & Rogers — Play at night, returned to supper & found Childs there — stayed late. Satur: 13 Went with Mess" Rogers & Childs on board a number of vessels bound to America — like Capt" Jenkins' as well as any — Capt" Hef ron in the three friends has a clumsy but convenient vessel, unarmed. Dined at Pitcairns & passed the evening there — Met M*" Robinson an En^m** [Englishman]. Sund 14 Went in a carriage with R[Ogers] & C[hilds] — to dine at the seat of M'' Muir, an English merchant about 8 miles from town — Stopped at old M*" Parish's, saw him & met there Sir James Craufurd & his lady — Harburg, a Prussian town six miles south of Hamburg. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 37 Went on to Muirs and waited till 5 o'Clock for dinner, M. M[iiir] being out on a hunting party — Too late to dine if we resolved to go to town, we chose rather to stay the night. Played whist — slept in a Cott. Mond 15 Returned to town & breakfasted at P[itcairn]S — Home & wrote letters — Upon Exchange could not find Capt Jenkins — Met several acquaintances — went with the Brushes & dined at Hotel d'Angleterre. Several Dutchmen — Havart Bicker,^ Myn Hccr Persoon. Saw the Irish man Hamil- ton at table, whom I knew in Holland — Went to Brushes room & met an invitation there from a West Indian from S* Croix by the name of Coppy.^ Went to the play — saw Don Juan or la fete de St Pierre^ performed with Am.broise ou voila ma journee '^ — Supp'd with the aforesaid Coppy and never was so completely bored in my life. Home at 1 o'Clock. Tues 16 Driving about town & upon Change — Dined with the Brushe's & Childs at T[able] d'hote — afterwards played Billds [Billiards] with B[rush] Senior & beat him. Supp'd at the Hotel d'Angleterre with them. Wed 17 Called at the Globe Tavern for Capt*" Jenkins but he was out — met Rogers there & went with him to P[itcairn]S wrote a letter to my Brother — called on M'" Muir, then at Change — At 3 went & dined at Pitcairns with Childs — the Brushes & Rogers — Passed the Even^ there. Thurs 18. According to appointment I met Capt" Jenkins at his lodgings & went with him & several other Capt^ viz Capt" Palmer, Gardner, Hefferon on board the Alexander Hamilton — Capt" Clarke — Got some Red Herring & Porter &'^^ the Capt himself came soon after & treated us very handsomely — I engaged a passage on board him & chose my birth. From his went on board the three friends Capt Hefferon — drank wine there & then on board the America — where we were joined by the Brushes — From thence on shore & to Change — Dined at Konig von England with Brush Jun"" found him to be a member of * B K — Billds [Billiards] till 8 — then till 10 at their rooms. Frid 19 Dined at Kaisers hof with Brrush] Jun"" Billds [Billiards] after- wards, then with him & Childs at K[6nig] V[On] E[ngland], where we played little Lu & learnt a lesson from it. Stayed late. Satur 20 Called & took breakfast with Brush Sen"" and went with him on board the Alex'" Hamilton — Capt" Clarke was not on board — return'd and dressed for an excursion to M"" Parishes at Nine Stadten took up Childs after a tedious waiting & sat off about 2 o'Clock dined at 3 ^ and sat off to return by 4 ^ — just saved our distance, and got in before Gates close. Went to Pitcairns & met there M. Alex"" Lameth, M*" Polard & Childs Rogers & M"" Rob- inson came in after — some pleasant conversation with Lameth — stayed late. • Sund 21 Brush Sen"" called — went & took leave of Childs — Dined at Kaisers Hoff with B[rush] Jun"" and played Billds [Billiards] after — thence to the play — The Deserter — & the choice of Paris. Suppd at Hotel d'Angle- terre with B[rush] Jun''. * Havart and Bicker Carton. - Coppee. ^ Perhaps Mozart's Don Juan. * A musical comedy composed by Nicolas Dalayrac, with libretto by J. M. Boutet, called Monvel. It was first performed at Paris in 1793. 38 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY Mond 22 Called on the B[rushe]S & then at Pitcairns — thence to Change — Capt" Clarke introduced me to M"" Fowler my fellow passenger & he took me to a shop where I bought a Matrass & covering. Dined at Pitcairn's and went to the play afterwards — La Gouvernante ^ & le prisonnier^ — Supp'd again at Hotel d'Angleterre with B[rush] S"" Tues 23^ Paid for my Bedding &^^ Dined with M' Fowler at the Hotel d'Angleterre — Evening with Brush Jun'' at an house of entertainment. Wednes 24 Dined with a considerable company at M"" George Smiths a Scotchman by birth, though long settled in this Country as a merchant. Met there a Capf" Clarke & M"" Marcou. Very handsome dinner — M"" Smith invited young B[rush] & self & M"" Flannigin to hunt with him tomorrow — agreed to meet at his house 7 o'Clock. Supp'd at King of England with Brush's & Pitcairn. Thurs 25 Called at the K[6nig] V[on] Eng[landt] at 7 ^ — there met Brush & Flannigin, thence to M"" Smiths where we took breakfast & about 8 ^^ were off for the hunt — nearly 1 1 before we reached the ground — found our dog good for nothing & let him go off with the waggon. Started a hare; in less than an hour had seen three — I got the first shot, & Brush the 2'^, neither stopp'd his game. M*" Smith got several Shots, but missed them all. We had a fine day & a long walk, which gave us good appetites, for a fine dinner which was ready for us upon arrival at M"" John Smiths — Schoenfeld is the name of the vilage where he lives in a very handsome st3de. A M'" Viotti an Italian musician lives there at present. Several of M"" Smith's Captains were there and Mess" Pitcairn & Brush Sen"" came in just as we had done dinner, which occasioned some embarrassment, though they got some dinner & excellent wine. Off early for town & reached it in good season — drank tea at M"" Smiths — played Billds [Billiards] with Brush & supp'd with Flannigin. Frid 26*'' Forenoon at Pitcairns answering letters — Dined at K[6nig] V[on] Engl[andt] & after dinner played Billds with the Brush's & a M*" Gorman Eng[lish] Merch* settled at Leghorn, with whom we afterwards supp'd at the Restaurateur Girards — Elegant supper &'''' but after conversation begun to flag — singing was introduced & spoiled all the pleasure of the evening — Satur 27*'' Morning rose late & went to Pitcairns wrote to my Father to go by Jenkins — Went to Change — thence returned to dine with Pitcairn upon Salt fish — Met there M'' Proud an American & M*" Rhea an Eng[lish] Gent"" Came away with B[rush] Jun"" and played Bil'ds [Billiards] — supp^ with him. Sun 28*'' Hired an horse & went out to Schoenveld to see M"" Smith — Found him at home and was very pleasantly received by him — took some refreshment and returned to M"" Parishes where stayed half an hour & then came to town — waited the return of the hunters & dined with them at Girrards — Billds [Billiards] afterwards. Mon 29th Dined at K[onig] V[on] Eng[landt] and went after to French play — saw Rico performed by Marshall very laughable, came away after ' La Gouvernante, composed by Ferdinando Giuseppe Bertoni. 2 Le Prisonnier, composed by Pierre Antoine Domenique della Maria, first performed in 1798. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 39 first piece was over, went to Patriotic Coffee house & met there Mess*"^ Brush Sen & Smith — played Billds [Billiards] with the latter — home early. Tues 30*^ Breakfasted with the Brushes and called on Pitcairn after- wards — read the Eng[lish] papers — M"" Proud. 'Change — Dined at K[Onig] V[on] Eng*^ and had a drinking Siege of it — Supp'd at the new Hotel and came off late. Wednes 3P* Walk upon the Jungfersteeg with the Brushes & Flannigin — Dined at Pitcairns with Mess" A Lameth — C. Noailles — Robinson & Flannigin. Heard a deal of interesting conversation, but remember little. Thursday P' [November] Fast day in Hamburg — This day a year I left this place for Berlin — Weather very delightful & many people taking advan- tage of it. Gates of the town & Coffee houses shut. Walked upon the Jung- fernsteg till dinner time at the K[6nig] V[On] E[nglandt] Company small, but chiefly of one sett — Champagne sat them all agog — Afternoon & even^ with B[rush] Jun"" at several places. Frid 2 Dined with Pitcairn — Ev^ French play — Ambroise ^ — after- wards with Gorman[,] Pitcairn & a M"" Dawson at the Patriotic.^ Billds [Billiards] — Satur 3 Running about all the morning — Dined at K[6nig] V[on] Eng[landt] — and remainder of day & ev^ with Brush's. Sund 4 Called on M"" George Smith — been gone a little time. Took Pitcairn's horse & got out of the gate at 11 — Fine day — reached M"" G Smiths at 12, small Music party of which M'' Viotti ^ was the chief performer. Signior & Signiora Righini ^ the second — the last sung very well — Con- siderable company — returned to town and spent the even^ at Pitcairns — Mess""^ Brush & Fowler. Mond 5 Day fixed for departure, but put off till Wednesday — Dined at M"" J. Brush room with Mess" Waters of Cork — Flannigin, Berns & Pitcairn — stayed the ev^. Tuesd 6 From Change went with M'' Riemer & dined at Caffe Chinois with a number of Englishmen — Rhodes & Yates — Spent Ev^ at B Coffee- house with the Brushe's. Wednes 7 Gave an introductory letter to M*" Waters going to Berlin — Dined at Girrards with M"" Dawson and went to see Le vieiix Celihataire at the fr[ench] play.^ Thursd 8 At Pitcairns in the morning on change invited to dine at young J Parish, with Pitcairn & the Brushes M. La Borde — Ev^ [Evening] old P ^ The same piece he had heard before. ^ Coffee-house. ^ Jean Baptiste Viotti, the father of the modern school of violin-playing, b. 1753; d. 1824. After a successful career in London, where he became leader at the King's Theatre, he was forced to leave England in 1798, on account of suspicion that he was encouraging hostile schemes against the French Directory. He went to Schonfeldz, a village near Hamburg. ■• Vincenzo Righini, b. at Bologna in 1756; d. there in 1812. He came to Berlin from JNIainz in 1793, as successor to Alessandri, conductor at the Italian opera. His wife was Henriette Kneisel, born at Stettin in 1767; d. at Berlin in 1801. They were married in 1793. She was "a charming blonde, and according to Gerber, a singer of great expression." — Grove's Diet, of Music, IV: 101. ^ This play was written by Jean Frangois Collin d'Harleville. It was adapted in German by Ludwig Ferdinand Huber as "Der alte Junggeselle" (Leipzig, 1797). 40 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY [Parish?] came in with news — Whist at Pitc: [Pitcairn's] Lameth there — he had dined out & was very talkative — plausible but not solid. Frid 9 Writing all the forenoon; dined at Konig v. Eng[landt] with B[rush] Jun"" and passed the ev^ with him. Satur 10 Bought a very fine German Flute. Dined at Pitcairns on Salt Fish — Capt" Edwards & M"" Robinson — Ev^ with S Brush. Sund 11 At my lodgings all the forenoon — dined at the Chineese Coffee house, with Mess" Rocquette & Matthys — Ev^ with Mess""' Brush. Mond 12 Dined again at Chineese in a company of 8 persons — Ev^ M"" Brush Jun"" Tues 13 Met Capt" Trevet upon Change — just in from Boston; very favorable accounts. Dined at K[6nig] V[on] Eng[landt] after dinner B. Coffee- house and after a supper at C[hinese] C[offee house] with Faving.^ Flannigin got unruly & quarrelsome — home late. Wed 14 M"" Fowler called on me before I was up to say the wind was fair — took breakfast called on F[lannigin] and went to the water for a boat, took leave of the Brushes — Flannigin & Amadon Paid of f at the Obergesell- schaft sent off my baggage & called to take leave of Pitcairn — He accom- panied me to Lilburns where took a cut with Capt Palmer & left in a boat for Gluckstadt at 2 — Got down after rather an uncomfortable passage & on board the Ship Alexander Hamilton at 2 in the morning of Thurs 15 Captain got on board at 9 and put the Ship under weigh — went down a few miles & then were obliged to come to Anchor — Ev^ a vessel, the Harriet Capt" Martin from Baltimore came along side and we sent out jolly boat a board to ask for news — the Capt & a passenger came & passed the ev^ with us — Gave us a Baltimore paper of 28 Sepf — 38 days passage. Frid 16 Good wind and we got under weigh at 8 from Biish where we lay & went down to Cuxhaven where we came to anchor at 12 on account of the wind being unfavorable to go north ab^ [about] Spoke a vessel 10 weeks from New York, loaded with Cotton &''^ Sent the boat a shore with the mate to get some articles at Cuxhaven. Satur 17 Wind quite a head — after dinner the Capt*" & self went on shore at Cuxhaven & purchased several necessary articles — two Turkeys &''^ and returned just at dusk on board. Sund 18 Stormy day — wind to the westward — read most of the day — predicted a fair wind, which actually set in about 8 at night — prepared to take benefit of it early in morn^ Mond 19 The people were stiring by 5 and got the Ship under weigh by 7 in the morn^ with a fine wind from the Eastward — Got up and wrote to my Brother & Sister & to Pitcairn which sent by the Pilot who left us at 11 o'clock — Passed several vessels which sailed before us — and about 12 were off Heiligoland, whence our voyage begun as of the 20*^ — Passed a vessel, said English which had got upon a shoal and was surrounded by Blank- Perhaps written erroneously for Flannigin. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 41 aneese boats — We left Heil°land on our left and all the vessels that come out very soon were out of sight as we sailed much superior to any of them — Had fine breeze all day & felt ourselves quite happy. Tues 20 Wind strong in the night — vessel made 1 1 knots for four hours together. At 12 o'Clock we had 252 miles on the log book in the last 24 hours. Weather very fine but sharp air — snowed some part of the day — wind tolerably fair — Ev^ Cards — Appetite rather slim to day — stomach squeamish; took a nap after dinner & recovered. Wednes 21 Calm weather & not so cold as yesterday — very slight wind — a fresh breeze came on in the evening. Thurs 22*^ Good wind, a sail in sight supposed a lugger — made more sail and lost sight of her in about 2 hours — At night a very fresh breeze — Capt went on deck & cried out directly A light ! Ho ! All hands up on deck — Took in sail and tried hard to weather the light, which proved to be on one of the Orkney Islands — With day light we could have gone directly through these Islands, but as it was nine at night the Capt" made for the passage between the Orkney & Shetland Isles — Stood off all night & on Friday 23 Discovered two of the Shetland Islands — Fair & Foul, the latter of which at 12 oClock was by observation 54 miles off — Fair wind and fine weather though somewhat cold & snowy. Saturd 24 Got through the passage very fortunately — wind early a head and during the whole day boisterous almost tempestuous weather — No sickness — Sunday 25 Contrary wind all day and towards night very fresh. Mond 26 Bad wind — one of our 6 shilling sterling Turkey's got over board — the Mate & Will the apprentice let down Jolly boat & went for it ■ — recoverd her. Tues 27 Strong wind & nearly a head all day. Some of our crew sick — M*" F[lannigin]S servl Wed 28 Head wind again — since we left the Orkney's we have not had an hour of fair wind — Reading good part of the day; Faublas is some- what bewitching. Thurs 29 The same old story of bad wind & a head — Capf" complains much of his Crew — scarcely an abled bodied seaman on board — the Mate excepted. Frid 30 Constant gales; no possibility of keeping ones feet — obliged to eat on the floor. Saturd 1 December Passed a very uncomfortable night — not a wink of sleep till morn^ — up late, wind continues in the same dismal quarter — Capf anxious. At 9 in the evening the wind shifted in our favour, and continued through the night, but came round early in the morn^ of Sund 2 and begun to blow a violent gale through the whole day. Hard labour for the sailors — most all the sails handed — Sea mountains high & often some of it a board — Capt very anxious for fear of being blown upon 42 THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY the Irish Coast — Put Ship about two or three times in the course of the day. Everything giving way in the Cabin and no comfort in eating. For myself, I was not terrified though it was the first Gale I had every experienced, M*" F[lannigin] was gloomy & tried hard to make me so, but I thought it would be time when we were on the rocks to look dismal. The Gale abated with the setting Sun & we had a much better night than was expected. Mon 3 Fine wind & weather — Spent all day on Deck & took care of the surviving fowls. 13 of our stock perished in the gale of yesterday — we must be soon reduced to salt provisions took exercise & dined well. Tues 4 Tolerable pleasant day wind not over hard — but contrary. Wed 5 By log book wind E B S, E N E. N E. & North. Thurs 6'^ Heavy gales from N B W W N W. West & S W. Frid 7'^ Wind S W B W. S W. W S W. West — N W B W.^ Sat S^^ Head wind all day — towards night very heavy — Salt Fish dinner always bring on a gale of wind says the Capt. Sund 9'^ The Slings of the main yard gave way last night, an Accident, which might have been fatal to some of the Crew had it happened by day — Wind to day S.W. & W.S.W. Mon 10*^ Passed some hours very much in pain with the tooth ach — last night, relieved myself towards morning — Wind E.N.E. Tuesd 1 V^ Fine wind — the Ship goes from 9 to 11 knots an hour. Wed 12 — Thurs 13. Frid 14. Wind continued favorable & we made about 600 miles in the course of it. Satur 15 Head wind — Capt" thought we were on the outward bank of Newfoundland — tried for soundings, but did not find them — Salt fish. Sun 16 Made little progress today wind W b S. W N W &'=^ but by our sea journal we had a run of 60 or 70 knots from 1 to 10 oClock at night. Mon 17 Head wind — Tues 18 Same. Wed 19 Same — Thurs 20 Same. Frid 21 We are upon the Southernmost extremity of the Banks of New- foundland — Wind variable from N.W. to N. lay our course part of the time. About 4 }^ oClock a sail hove in sight bearing down towards us. Capt determined to speak her — Loaded one of the labord guns — I charged 5 Pistols being all the effective small arms we have on board — Got out my Tin case of papers &''^ in }i of an hour from the time of discovery, the vessel was within hailing distance & we found her to be the Ship Heyram Capt Whitwell, 14 days from Boston bound to Liverpool — His observation was in 50-odd E[nglish] L[eagues]. ours in 50. 30. Satur 22 Wind N & N b W. pretty strong. 1 While Thomas B. Adams was at sea and found this brief entry of winds as his only record of interest, his brother John Quincy Adams recorded in his diary that he had called upon the Prussian minister of state, Count von Haugwitz, by appointment, and adds: "He told me he had a double regret in having been obliged to delay so long an answer to my application for permission to export arms; and at last the answer is not such as he could wish. The permission cannot be granted, because the King's own troops will want all that the manufacture can produce for a year to come." — Memoirs, I: 223. BERLIN AND THE PRUSSIAN COURT IN 1798 43 Sund 23 Forenoon very calm, after dinner a clever breeze sprung up from the Southw^ard & continued till 10 o'Clock at night. Lay our course till 2 on Monday 24 Wind a head & very strong from the Southward & West*^ made however some progress. Tuesd 25 Christmas day — One of the heaviest gales of wind from the N E b N that we have had since we are out. A tremendous Sea running & the Ship steering right before the wind for fear of loosing her masts if we lay our course. The Sailors stole some apples from the Caboose last night & the Capt" to punish them refused their allowance of meat & bread for Christmas, but the Sailors had the laugh upon him when it turned out that none of us could have any dinner cooked on ace* of the Sea that was runing — About 2 o'Clock the watch on deck discovered the wreck of a large vessel at a considerable dis- tance from us — could distinguish nothing in particular. Towards night the gale abated & the Sea fell, so that we got somewhat to eat. 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