A TRAVELER'S MAIL BAG 
 
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IRONWOOD TREES IN KAPIOLAWI PARK 
 
 HONOLULU 
 
A TRAVELER'S 
 MAIL BAG 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF 
 
 THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 AND CALIFORNIA 
 
 
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 ♦ ♦♦ 
 
 
 LETTERS FROM MRS. JOHN E. BAIRD, 
 FEBRUARY TO AUGUST, 1914 
 
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 PHILADELPHIA 
 
 PRIVATELY PUBLISHED 
 
 1915 
 
3^7 
 
 Copyright, 1915, by 
 Mrs. John E. Baird 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
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 • • • 
 
 • • • • • • • « 
 
 PRESS OF WM. F. FELL CO. 
 PHILADELPHIA 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Through the Paradise of the Pacific 7 
 
 A Few First Impressions 7 
 
 A Visit to Hilo on Island Hawaii 10 
 
 Further Greetings from Honolulu 16 
 
 Next Day — Moving Day 20 
 
 A Chronicle of Some of the Things that Make Time Fly in Hono- 
 lulu 30 
 
 An "Uninspired" Letter. . . 38 
 
 Easter Sunday 47 
 
 Another Epistle from the " Paradise of the Pacific" 57 
 
 Honolulu, May Fourteenth , 63 
 
 A Letter Written at Sea 71 
 
 During Our Stay in California jy 
 
 San Francisco 77 
 
 Anniversary Day and Sunday 78 
 
 Monday 80 
 
 Wednesday 83 
 
 Thursday 84 
 
 Friday 86 
 
 Los Altos 87 
 
 Sunday in Yosemite 89 
 
 Lakeport, Lake Co 98 
 
 Through the " Redwoods" 98 
 
 Northern Part of the State 1 1 1 
 
 Lake Tahoe and Sacramento 114 
 
 Southern California 1 19 
 
 M9281' 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 Ironwood Trees in Kapiolani Park, Honolulu. . .Frontispiece 
 
 St. Andrews Cathedral, Honolulu 32 
 
 Four American Citizens, Native Residents of Honolulu. ... 56 
 
 Moanalua Park, Honolulu 66 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE 
 PACIFIC 
 
 A FEW FIRST IMPRESSIONS 
 
 EARLY in the morning we were on deck for our first 
 sight of the Islands. We were impressed with the 
 "barren" and "unpopulated" appearance of them, 
 until, after several hours, we sighted Honolulu in the dis- 
 tance. The city proper lies along the shore, with only 
 scattered buildings on the mountain side, so that the 
 perspective does not remind us of the Mediterranean 
 ports, — except the boys swimming and diving for coins! — 
 and when we learn that the ship will dock, it not only 
 delights us, but quite convinces us that no comparison 
 is to be made between this and the ports so much better 
 known to tourists, for of all those we have previously 
 visited, Colon and Constantinople are the only ones that 
 have docked our ship. 
 
 The color of the sea is the first thing we notice, for 
 though not so blue as that around the Bahamas, it is a 
 beautiful, clear, vivid blue. 
 
 Our ship, the "Matsonia," being the handsomest 
 Matson S. S. Co. boat ever having entered this port, and 
 not only being on her maiden trip, but also having on board 
 her owner, Captain Matson, there were thousands at the 
 wharf to meet her. All whistles in town shrilled their 
 greeting, and all the boats in the harbor gave salutes of 
 welcome, so that for two hours there was much excitement. 
 
 We were met by Bishop Restarick and received a very 
 cordial welcome. There were with him three native girls 
 [7] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 from the school who had made for us wreaths of colored 
 reaper arid :";ma;ilp ? ' ;, a: native vine. We each received 
 one from each" girl arid felt very much "decorated" by 
 the time we reached the automobile the Bishop had pro- 
 vided for us. They all, and we, quickly jumped in and 
 escaped from the crowd, making our way along the boule- 
 vard through part of the beautiful city down to Moana 
 Hotel at Waikiki Beach. This short ride was quite 
 enough to satisfy us that we had come to the right spot 
 to find real beauty of tropical growth and also a charming 
 climate. 
 
 We were given a lovely suite in the Moana Cottage, 
 first floor, facing the sea. Our sitting room is a veranda, 
 inclosed with wire netting only. There we have a desk, 
 couch, table, Morris chair, rocker, and desk chair, with 
 room for others. On one side of this porch-room is a 
 lovely stream of water that falls from the mountain and 
 runs into the sea. The front faces the boulevard, and 
 beyond that the sea. On the other side is the porch 
 entrance to the cottage. We sleep with the door that 
 leads to it from the bedroom wide open, and four windows 
 also open, thus managing to sleep out-of-doors with all 
 house comforts. 
 
 The little stream beside the cottage of which I spoke, 
 bordered as it is by palms and a variety of plants with 
 effective foliage, offers a scene of beauty to which we turn 
 again and again, never tiring of it. 
 
 We are so glad to be away from the hotel, thus insuring 
 greater quiet, while at the same time it is very near us, — 
 just across the street, — and is a very fine hotel. We take 
 all meals there and are free to spend all the time there we 
 wish, enjoying all its privileges, but we much prefer the 
 quiet and atmosphere of homelikeness which the life at 
 the cottage makes possible, so spend most of our time 
 
 [8] 
 
A FEW FIRST IMPRESSIONS 
 
 right here — and if we are not rested when we leave here, 
 then it is not "rest" we need, but a cure for indolence! 
 
 The hotel and all its cottages are full, and I can't help 
 feeling sorry for all the people who, in consequence, have 
 to stay in the city proper and miss all the charm of this 
 "suburban" life — though we are only twenty-five minutes 
 from town by trolley, and much less by auto. 
 
 Sea bathing here is excellent. As this is only our 
 second day, we haven't tried it yet, but we surely will 
 enjoy it on our return from Hilo, where we go tomorrow 
 (Thursday), returning Monday morning. 
 
 There are mountains everywhere in sight, and "Dia- 
 mond Head" is very near. 
 
 Yesterday we called at the Bishop's home — while his 
 wife was out here calling on us! He (the Bishop) showed 
 us part of the house, the Cathedral, and the Girls' School. 
 They have a beautiful plant and are doing a wonderful 
 work. Of twelve Protestant churches on the Islands we 
 have six, and of six in the city, we have three. In each 
 of the three, services are held in several languages each 
 Sunday. When trying to secure funds for a new church 
 for the Chinese recently a woman who earns two dollars 
 a week pledged and paid thirty dollars; a man who sells 
 peanuts for a living pledged and paid fifty dollars; as 
 all did proportionately well, they got their church! — 
 this only to show how eager these foreign peoples are for 
 our beautiful service, and how they appreciate and re- 
 spond to efforts to secure it for them. They are very 
 attentive to church services and active in the work. 
 The intelligent faces of the girls in the school, and their 
 loving admiration of the Bishop and what he has been 
 instrumental in doing for them, interested us greatly. 
 One girl, eight years of age, half Irish, half Chinese, was 
 brought here by the Bishop when he returned from the 
 
 I9l 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 convention last fall. The Ladies' Aid Society of a church 
 in Chestnut Hill persuaded him to take her, they paying 
 all expenses. When he asked her yesterday if she would 
 like to have us take her back to Philadelphia with us she 
 cuddled against his arm and said: "No, please, Bishop." 
 She is loved by all who know her. The girls in this school 
 make everything they wear, do all the housework, play 
 outdoors an hour and a half daily, and do the studying 
 required to complete a full high school course. Their 
 training fits them to become fine teachers, business wo- 
 men, or wives. A druggist told us yesterday he could 
 never find more efficient stenographers than the two he 
 now has from this school. 
 
 We are interested to see many of the same plants and 
 trees here as those we have seen in the West Indies and 
 the South; also rice, the cultivation of which is a Chinese 
 industry here. 
 
 The scenic effects are strikingly beautiful, and are so 
 numerous that I am already at a loss to choose among 
 them for my camera. If I took all I see that I should like to 
 preserve I should break the bank buying and printing films! 
 
 We feel now that there isn't a place in the world where 
 we would rather stay, and we wish all our loved family 
 and friends could share with us this wonderful beauty and 
 this wonderful climate. We are very glad to have been 
 able to make arrangements to remain here until March 
 nth; the time will be all too short — but a happy thought 
 is that we leave here only to go back to more real beauty 
 in our own California. 
 
 A VISIT TO HILO ON ISLAND HAWAII 
 We had a fine trip over on the Matsonia, and there, 
 as here, she was received with all the honors the town could 
 
A VISIT TO HILO ON ISLAND HAWAII 
 
 bestow. Captain Matson is well known on these islands, 
 and all appreciate the fact that his fine boats have done 
 much toward promoting their progress. 
 
 The boat did not dock at Hilo, but there is a very fine 
 breakwater being made now, and when that is finished, 
 Hilo will become, it is prophesied, second in importance 
 to none of the cities of the Pacific Islands. 
 
 We were taken ashore in launches over a smooth sea. 
 We were reminded of Jaffa when we saw the rocks in the 
 water, but these are not so large and they do not affect 
 the landing. 
 
 As has usually been our good fortune, we had fine 
 weather for our entire trip (our stay there lasting from 
 Friday morning at eight to Sunday afternoon at five), 
 and that was particularly fortunate, because over there 
 they have many rains — in fact, many rainy days, a 
 peculiarity that makes it much less desirable than Hono- 
 lulu. 
 
 At a quarter of nine we were off in a small Ford car 
 (concerning which let me say in passing to those that have, 
 or contemplate having, one, that they are certainly a 
 joy for endurance; and comfortable, too, if only they 
 would not insist upon riding through the air instead of 
 staying on the road!). We seriously objected to taking so 
 small a car for the trip, but preferred being alone, and the 
 large cars were all in demand because of the unusual 
 crowd, there being two ships in at one time. 
 
 Upon being assured, however, that the car was "a 
 dandy!" we started off, with a chauffeur that "knew 
 everything about an auto" — but little about plants, 
 roads, or even English, though, even without having 
 read "Pollyanna," he had the "smile that won't come off," 
 and acknowledged his ignorance rather than "bluff" us. 
 He proved to be a real expert at the wheel, and such riding 
 [u] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 over ditches, through fields, and along a stretch of so- 
 called road that was nearly as crude and rocky as the 
 road from Jericho to Jerusalem! It made us later appre- 
 ciate the really fine road to the crater. 
 
 We went first to Rainbow Falls to see the rainbow on 
 the water; then out to an old cave which we understood 
 was to be another Falls (but our English did not agree!). 
 After riding over that awful stretch of rocks for miles, 
 when we finally got there we said, "no going into the cave 
 for us!" It is interesting to study the lava formation that 
 produced these caves, but the descent into them is down 
 a miserable ladder into utter darkness, and once down, 
 the walking is very slippery, and unless one tied a rope at 
 the entrance to pull his way back he might be lost forever. 
 
 The ride out to the Volcano Hotel at Kilauea is over a 
 thirty-one mile stretch of good road, through sugar-cane 
 plantations, woods, and plantation camps. These " camps " 
 are groups of cheap-looking but good frame houses or 
 bungalows, tenanted mostly by Japanese, for the planta- 
 tion labor is largely Japanese. 
 
 The natural growth of woods is very attractive and 
 really wonderful, considering the rocky or lava formation 
 of the ground, with so little "soil" — in high winds large 
 trees are easily blown over, root and all. The bread-fruit 
 trees, the mango, banana, algeroba, and koa are beautiful, 
 and the abundance of tree ferns and ground vines taken 
 altogether certainly make a picture to be long remembered. 
 
 We really suffered disappointment at finding that the 
 Kilauea crater is not active. Nothing to be seen but 
 smoke, and the awful hole, six hundred feet below the 
 great lava plain around it, and from which its walls drop 
 in sheer precipices. The circumference of the crater is 
 nearly eight miles, and it incloses an area of 2650 acres. 
 Near the center of this great pit is a smaller one, 1000 
 
 [12] 
 
A VISIT TO HILO ON ISLAND HAWAII 
 
 feet in diameter. This crater can be approached within 
 a few rods by riding over a splendid road (seven miles in 
 length) from the Volcano Hotel. 
 
 We did not waste time trying to find scorched post-card 
 pictures of the crater, and think that those who did suc- 
 ceed in finding them must have had a good match-box 
 somewhere, for we failed to see any sign of fire and feel 
 sure the smoke was not hot enough to be luminous! 
 
 Lunch at the Volcano Hotel was only fair. Most of 
 the tourists stay up there over night, but we preferred 
 coming back to Hilo, and arrived at the Hilo Hotel at 
 seven o'clock, so burned that we were very far from com- 
 fortable! — but that is a small consideration compared 
 with the pleasure we had. We must get black sooner 
 or later, so this was as good a time as any. 
 
 In the evening Rev. Fenton-Smith called. He had 
 had a letter from Bishop Restarick asking him to "show 
 us around." He made our entire visit there very enjoy- 
 able, giving up a much-desired fishing party to spend 
 Saturday with us, showing us the wondrous beauties 
 along the new Hilo railroad, the thirty miles of which cost 
 four millions of dollars to construct. It is built on, over, 
 and through the mountains on the coast, and passes 
 through scenery nearly equal in beauty to that of the 
 Amalfi Drive in Italy. Sublime gorges, rustic scenes, 
 mountain torrents foaming over fringed cliffs, pass in 
 picturesque succession, arousing our enthusiastic ad- 
 miration. 
 
 The number and the length of flumes carrying stripped 
 cane from fields to mill was an interesting sight. This 
 excellent method of transportation could not be used 
 except for the unusually large rainfall there, but it is a 
 great time and money saver. The cane is carried miles 
 without any labor except to place it in the flume at the 
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THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 starting-point, and to guide it where there is much of a 
 bend in the flume. The force of the water and the speed 
 with which it carries the cane are quite remarkable. 
 
 At the terminus of our trip on this railroad we were met 
 by Rev. Mr. Cullen, who took us in his automobile to 
 his home for lunch, a courtesy which we very greatly 
 enjoyed. We are glad to write that we saw peach blossoms 
 in February! Judging from the press weather reports, 
 the folks at home would be glad to say the same thing — 
 if they will come to this haven of all that is desirable in 
 scenic beauty and in climate they can. 
 
 It is interesting, and we think pitiable, to see the results 
 of the sugar monopolies on Island Hawaii. They have 
 left no ground available even for vegetable gardens. The 
 hope of the people is that since the tariff has been taken 
 off of sugar Cuba will do more of the business and these 
 islands less, and perhaps these baneful monopolies will 
 not always exist. 
 
 We were glad to have the opportunity of going to Paloa 
 to see a large mill where flooring, window-sashes, crates, 
 picture-frames, railroad-ties, etc., are made from the 
 beautiful koa wood, which is so hard. When polished, 
 it looks the equal in beauty and value of mahogany. 
 Among the 200 employees here, there are represented 14 
 different nations, and under Colonel Samuel Johnson all 
 are so loyal, as well as efficient, that at the time of the 
 great fire, when all of the mill was burned to the ground, 
 the men came and volunteered to clear the site of debris 
 and prepare it for the new buildings while the owners and 
 superintendent were away raising capital to rebuild — 
 for there was no insurance. They offered to do this for 
 mere "grub money," and that was only eight dollars a 
 month! — this merely to show that within this people that 
 we are so apt to look down upon are large, noble hearts, 
 
 [14] 
 
A VISIT TO HILO ON ISLAND HAWAII 
 
 and surely the more I see of the Chinese and Japanese 
 who are here, the more I truly admire them and their fine 
 traits of character. They are so cleanly, so ambitious, 
 so anxious for learning! they all educate their children, 
 and many men and women themselves attend night school. 
 Though the average family has only from six to ten chil- 
 dren, there are some I know of that have seventeen; 
 and some up to twenty-three, and yet they are all properly 
 cared for. I have yet to see on one of them a ragged or 
 soiled garment or an untidy head. They seem far superior 
 in this respect to our own poorer classes. I think there is 
 very little charity work called for among them — they 
 usually manage to supply their own needs. 
 
 Holy Apostles Church at Hilo was practically built 
 by Mr. George C. Thomas, of Philadelphia, for when he 
 was appealed to for help, and the situation with its great 
 need was made plain to him, he secured enough money to 
 build the church and it was called after his own parish. 
 The interior of the church is very attractive. Its rector 
 did all the wood carving, and the wood is polished koa, 
 which makes it so very clean and cool looking. They 
 have a fine rectory and a parish house. The rector, Mr. 
 Fenton-Smith, besides his wood carving, does very nice 
 oil painting, plays a violin, and sings quite well; isn't 
 that a combination for a clergyman? I had much fun 
 with him about his being single — he says he is coming to 
 Philadelphia to look for a wife, so readers, beware! 
 
 The Island of Hawaii is twice the size of all the rest of 
 the islands combined, having an area of 4015 square miles; 
 the population is about 60,000. English is understood 
 and spoken by all young people and by most of the older 
 ones. Hilo population is about 7500, located on the 
 eastern side of the Island. Like all the other islands of 
 this group, it is of volcanic origin, and is the youngest; 
 
 [15] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 it is also the only one of the group in which the volcanic 
 forces that made them are not yet become extinct. The 
 Island rises from the sea in three peaks; maximum eleva- 
 tion is 13,825 — Mauna Kea, which is the highest peak in 
 the Pacific Ocean, average ascent per mile would be a 
 little more than 400 feet. We saw snow on mountain 
 summits, while the average temperature at the sea-coast 
 is 70 to 8o°. 
 
 There are not many full-blood Hawaiians and very 
 few native grass huts. Japanese make up half of the 
 population. 
 
 As this is to go with the steamer tomorrow, I will 
 leave you at Honolulu, we having made the return trip 
 very comfortably in twelve hours from Hilo. We feel 
 that even though the volcano is not active, it paid to take 
 the Hilo trip. 
 
 We are so well and enjoy this climate and country so 
 much that we have decided to remain here until the spring. 
 
 FURTHER GREETINGS FROM HONOLULU 
 As I have been writing for two hours getting ready to 
 mail papers, programs, letters, photographs, and so on, 
 until I now have 28 pieces ready for the next mail, I 
 cannot truthfully say that I am inspired to write manu- 
 script, but I will, nevertheless, for a little while, attempt 
 to give an idea of some things I have seen here during the 
 "Mid-Pacific Carnival" week. I must first say that all 
 of the program for one week was carried through by us 
 on schedule time, and that means much when it implies 
 sitting for long periods of time at a stretch on boards with- 
 out a rest for the back! We had season tickets which 
 gave us seats next to the Governor's section, and that 
 meant having the sun on our backs instead of shining in 
 
 [ 16] 
 
FURTHER GREETINGS FROM HONOLULU 
 
 our faces; being in front of the open-air stages, rather than 
 to the side, or in back of them; and less crowding — as 
 well as the chance to see that the Governor and the old 
 Hawaiian Queen behaved themselves as should such 
 dignitaries! By the way, I am promised an opportunity 
 to meet the Queen and see her home. I can't help but 
 wonder if she knows where dear old Philly is on the map, 
 and whether she will make some silly speech, such as did 
 one dear man here the other day. We were being shown 
 through his beautiful home, and I remarked (as his friend 
 asked me to do after hearing me say so) that he bore a 
 striking resemblance to my father. He at once said, 
 "That must have been a long time ago!" Now what did 
 he mean? And what did a gentleman mean yesterday 
 when, as we were talking with him, he said I looked so 
 happy; of course I replied, "I am happy every minute"; 
 then he said: "It must agree with you here, and you look 
 young too," and then went on to say that, apart from all 
 the other benefits received here, the return of youth was 
 noticeable? It had been illustrated by old race horses 
 brought here lame and useless that, with care and time, 
 went back on the track and gained honors. Now tell 
 me, please, were we so decrepit looking? or was he merely 
 admiring our "youthful" skin, unspoiled with powder 
 or paste, and not yet so black as native skins? He was 
 a Boston man, though he has been here most of his life: 
 well, he is very nice to talk with, so I have forgiven him ! 
 
 The bands have worked day and night and have done 
 well (one is playing now on the beach within my hearing 
 while I write, so should I put a few bars of music down, 
 please don't wonder, for I nearly have a case of "band- 
 music-on-the-brain"!), but nevertheless here's hoping 
 that after tomorrow's parade and ball I don't hear a band 
 for a long time, for that isn't my kind of music. 
 [17] 2 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 On Punch-bowl crater (extinct) there was a pyrotechnic 
 display representing an active volcano. It was so real 
 as nearly to make observers shudder, and while all re- 
 marked the beauty of the display, some exclaimed that 
 if it were half so real as it looked, all would be running 
 (I wonder where?) instead of sitting quietly enjoying the 
 scene. It was even so realistically arranged that the lava 
 could be seen flowing down the side of the mountain, but 
 we, being recipients of special tickets, instead of running, 
 sat comfortably on the roof-garden of Young's hotel to 
 see this terror-suggesting spectacle. 
 
 Next evening we went to Moihili Park to witness 
 another pyrotechnic display, and it proved a wonder, 
 indeed, to all who saw it. Mr. John H. Wilson, of Los 
 Angeles, was entirely responsible for this exhibit. A 
 trapeze performer, a fiery automaton with red shoes, gave 
 a very realistic horizontal bar exhibition of the muscle 
 grind, back swing, and giant swing, until, through excess 
 zeal, he shook himself to pieces. 
 
 The bengolio, or balloon, was also perfect: after rising 
 several hundred feet it emitted samples of all colors of the 
 rainbow, shooting stars, gold dust, silver, small change, 
 etc. After ascending what seemed a mile or more over 
 our heads it turned in an instant as though it had caught 
 up a wireless message to return home, and went off to 
 sea toward China, where it was made. 
 
 The pigeon house was another marvel. After seeing 
 the house in all its beauty there darted from it two pigeons 
 (fire, of course), one from either side. Each went about 
 50 yards, and after staying there quite a little while, 
 deliberately made a straight flight back to the house, both 
 reaching it at the same time. Nor was this enough; they 
 again came out, made the same flight to and fro, and then 
 the house disappeared. 
 
 [18] 
 
FURTHER GREETINGS FROM HONOLULU 
 
 A Sioux Indian chief in full war regalia, with bow and 
 arrow, took long aim at a snow owl (fire) sitting on a stump 
 a hundred yards away; he drew his bow, let fly his arrow, 
 and killed the owl first shot. It could not have been a 
 nicer feat of archery had they been alive. 
 
 The rockets were wonderful, — quite beyond description. 
 
 A silver cascade with molten star dust falling over a 
 clifF into the sea, accompanied by the sound of the wild 
 roar of the breakers, was gorgeous — it reminded us of 
 Niagara. 
 
 The bombardment and capture of Adrianople, a spec- 
 tacular picture of war with some very realistic features, 
 was wonderfully clever. The city, with its towers and 
 minarets, was outlined against the background, and guns 
 played hot and fast from two directions. Their heavy 
 detonations could be heard for miles and shook all the 
 grounds where we were. The word "Aloha" (which 
 means many things here, according as it is used, as: 
 greetings, welcome, I love you, good-by, and others) 
 stood out prominently, and finally burst into silver, gold, 
 and crimson. 
 
 This magnificent exhibition lasted an hour or more, and 
 was exceedingly entertaining. It was so real that when I 
 was telling some one the next day of the pigeon house and 
 spoke of the flight of the pigeons, she gasped and ex- 
 claimed, "Poor dear little animals!" — then it was time for 
 all to have a good laugh! 
 
 For the benefit of any who may not think of this as a 
 real city, let me say that on this night of fireworks we saw 
 iooo automobiles — for we had first to find our own, and 
 then sit in line to wait our turn to get out of line on to the 
 road. It made us think that when we see the cars waiting 
 outside the Academy at home, we will remember how few 
 are there in comparison and wait patiently, for we had to 
 
 [19] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 wait here the better part of an hour. I know that before 
 I came here I had no idea of the size of this city, the pro- 
 gressive spirit, wealth, and number of its citizens, so I 
 note these little things in passing in case any of my readers 
 may feel as I had felt concerning Honolulu. 
 
 We were favored that night, as for every part of the 
 program, with perfect weather. Though it is usually 
 fine weather here, we are liable, in the midst of a fine day, 
 to have a heavy shower — it doesn't last long at any time, 
 and proves only a blessing by settling the dust, refreshing 
 vegetation, etc. ; but for the entire week of the Carnival the 
 showers were at night, when we were — as all should be — in 
 bed. 
 
 NEXT DAY— MOVING DAY 
 I wrote yesterday until I was threatened with writer's 
 cramp, and now, after having packed this morning and 
 having had the excitement of getting into our own home, 
 I cannot say that I feel like writing, but I do feel like 
 telling you all of this darling home. Are you interested 
 in the "help" question? I will first introduce that part 
 of the household to you. The cook is a man who at one 
 time worked in Bishop Restarick's home, so he comes 
 highly recommended, and, judging by our first meal, — 
 lunch, — he is very efficient. The maid (both are Jap- 
 anese) is nearly pretty, is sixteen, though we all agree she 
 looks quite over twenty; she is dainty and very clean 
 and fresh looking, and after the way she helped me pack 
 and served lunch I am quite happy in the feeling that 
 again we are very fortunate in so soon having obtained 
 help that seems so unusually satisfactory. They were 
 secured for us by our good friends, whose beautiful home 
 we have, Mr. and Mrs. McGrew, — she is the Bishop's 
 daughter. They have done everything for our comfort 
 
 [20] 
 
NEXT DAY MOVING DAY 
 
 in leaving us this home, taking with them, when they went, 
 simply their clothing, leaving us all silver, linens, and 
 everything to make a "home" complete, even to a canary 
 bird and chickens and 32 beautiful ferns — and here's 
 hoping that I won't forget my new job of watering them 
 and caring for the canary! 
 
 I suppose you are wishing to know about the home, so 
 I will attempt to tell you: The furniture is mostly ma- 
 hogany indoors, while the porches are furnished in wicker. 
 As we enter there is first a porch inclosed in vines and 
 growing plants; on it are a chair-swing, chairs, and table. 
 From the porch we pass into the parlor, or living room, 
 which contains a piano, desk, lovely chairs of all shapes, 
 a music cabinet, center table, and a couch which is really 
 a davenport. From one side of this room we walk out 
 on to the "lanai," which is a living room inclosed in wire 
 screen and with sliding windows. It is really a continua- 
 tion of the front porch, but is furnished with rug, tables, 
 ferns, tea service, rockers, and a couch which is really 
 as wide as a bed in case one wishes to sleep outdoors. 
 
 By-the-way, I didn't tell you the names I must pro- 
 nounce daily now — the man is "Watanobe," the maid is 
 "Kuma." Now to return to the plan of the house: 
 Leading from another side of the parlor is the dining room, 
 prettily furnished with all possible things that a bride is 
 likely to receive (for this couple were only married in 
 October) — sets of silver, silver dishes, vases, etc., cut glass 
 in abundance, chafing dish, electric toasters, silver tea 
 service, and lovely china. From another side of the living 
 room we enter one of the bed-rooms; it is furnished in oak 
 with double bed, bureau, dressing table, and chairs. From 
 this room we go into the front bed-room, furnished in 
 mahogany, with the same pieces as the other plus a 
 chiffonier. This room has a door onto the porch, and win- 
 [21] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 dows form the whole front and side. Now do you wonder 
 I hate to stay in stuffy cities? Also the house stands on 
 a hill, so we can see Diamond Head Mountain toward the 
 sea; the sea too is in sight, though quite far away; from 
 the back of the house mountains can be seen all around. 
 
 There is a nice pantry; the kitchen has a beauty gas- 
 range and all conveniences. An outside porch is back of 
 the kitchen, and there is a separate house in the yard for 
 the maid, containing her room and the laundry. There 
 is a garage where we will store trunks, for we do not keep 
 our car and man, but rent them by a monthly agreement 
 which gives us exclusive use. The man is white, good- 
 looking and clean, and careful. In the large yard around 
 the house we have trees and plants and a hibiscus hedge. 
 A gardener will come regularly to attend to all of that, 
 and the cook will care for the chickens. Now if there is 
 aught else you would like to know just ask me! We feel 
 quite bride and groom like, and never were so happy in 
 our lives: but here's hoping the ideal home conditions 
 will last, for the Japanese people are very touchy and 
 liable to leave in a minute without notice, though there 
 are always plenty more! The maid will, I believe, be a 
 jewel. She has unpacked my trunk and fixed my room 
 very neatly, and has laid out my clothes to wear to the 
 military ball tonight. She will keep all gloves and shoes 
 cleaned, do all mending, in fact, wait on us generally — 
 and won't dear Lover be glad not to hook up dresses for 
 a while ! We have lovely closet room and a large bath-room. 
 We couldn't be more cozy or comfortable. 
 
 Well, I think I started out to tell you of the Carnival. 
 I did not suppose I should get off" onto the Baird house- 
 keeping carnival, but believing that these details would 
 interest, I have stopped to give them, and will now proceed 
 with the other or real Carnival. 
 
 [22] 
 
NEXT DAY MOVING DAY 
 
 Another very interesting feature was a fern and hi- 
 biscus show. There were hundreds of varieties of the 
 latter, and they are surely beautiful. I could not attempt 
 descriptions except to say that they are of all colors, and 
 that the double ones are equal in attractiveness to a full- 
 blown American Beauty rose — if red, there are double ones 
 in other colors — and some single ones are so lily-like as to 
 be a great surprise when one comes upon them; in none 
 of them, however, is there much fragrance. 
 
 The Oriental play, "The Mayor of Tokio," in a flowery 
 open-air theater in Oahu College grounds, was so fine 
 that it is to be repeated later in the opera house. The 
 lighting device was charming in effect: electric bulbs in 
 Japanese lanterns — thousands of them. The music was 
 exceptionally well rendered, not only by the orchestra, 
 but by soloists and chorus as well. The costumes were 
 all Japanese, except for such characters as represented 
 people from the States, and the color schemes were very 
 artistic. This spectacular performance had thousands 
 of witnesses. 
 
 Such a wonderful climate will have me developing 
 climat-itis of the brain! — not too hot nor too cold to sit 
 outdoors for hours at night, and glorious stars showering 
 their beauty down upon us and the scenes before us, and 
 while we have had many showers at night and between 
 times to lay the dust and cool the atmosphere, there was 
 not one shower while a carnival performance was going 
 on. I defy any one to live here a week, or less, and not 
 wish to stay forever! 
 
 We witnessed another particularly interesting per- 
 formance, again in the open, only this one was in the sun- 
 shine: "The Wooing of Umi and Piikea," a native 
 Hawaiian story of the fifteenth century. As the plot 
 of the story was laid on both the Island of Maui and on 
 [23] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 this one, and the final ceremony was here, they played it as 
 the original was enacted and all arrived in canoes, landing 
 on the beach, which was right beside the grandstands. 
 Not much can be said about the costumes, — except for 
 two famous feather capes — but a great deal might be 
 said about the masculine physiques which were quite 
 conspicuous! The women are too corpulent to attract 
 much attention, due to the rather indolent lives they lead, 
 while their love of sports is largely responsible for the 
 finely developed, muscular men. The entire setting was 
 unlike anything any of us had ever seen, and, of course, 
 there was no speech except in the Hawaiian tongue. The 
 Hula dances interested many, and because they are so 
 much spoken of I was glad to see them; but now 
 I shall look more charitably upon the tango and the 
 turkey trot, for such a wiggle as these were I never im- 
 agined. They were done by women only, and each one 
 by herself. 
 
 We went to a masked ball (unmasked) and saw a 
 thousand or more participants competing for the prizes, 
 and were we not surprised when one of the only two persons 
 present who knew us asked us to act as judges? Knowing 
 how impartially we would be able to decide, we consented, 
 but the worst was yet to come — imagine the color of my 
 face when the other one of the "only two" asked me to 
 go up on the stage and present the prizes to the winners! 
 Well, it did no good to insist that some one better known 
 should have that honor, so I left the gallery and went the 
 length of that enormous room and was boosted (the steps 
 had been removed to make more room for the dancers) 
 up on the platform, and did the stunt, and was lifted 
 down — I haven't dared ask if the dear souls injured their 
 backs managing my 190 pounds! But I found out that 
 it is much less embarrassing to be conspicuous in large 
 
 [24] 
 
NEXT DAY MOVING DAY 
 
 crowds than among a few, and that to know but few in 
 such a crowd makes it easier than to know many. 
 
 The water carnival in the harbor was an occasion never 
 to be forgotten, for many reasons. The harbor was a 
 fairy land with lighted boats and Japanese lanterns by the 
 thousands. The boats paraded past all the grandstands, 
 and some were particularly clever and artistic: one launch 
 had a string of lanterns revolving lengthwise of the boat; 
 the "pirate'' boat was so real that I did not enjoy their 
 yells and shots! The color effects, with the lights, the 
 flags, etc., were lovely, but the boats carrying bands were 
 not so popular, though well decorated, for they used little 
 discretion in keeping at a distance from each other, so 
 that at one time there were three bands on the water and 
 one on shore, all playing within hearing. Now do you say 
 I like music ? yes, I do, but not bands, though all of them 
 here play well. After the boats went back to their several 
 docks there was another pyrotechnic display. It was 
 quite similar to the one I have already told you about, 
 but they introduced one real novelty: an elephant stand- 
 ing in front of a water trough into which his keeper was 
 pumping water; after the dear animal had his "full and 
 plenty" he raised his trunk and showered his keeper until 
 he was washed away. Now one could hardly realize 
 this without seeing it, for each detail was just as clear as a 
 picture, and one had to remind himself that he was looking 
 at fireworks. 
 
 The attack upon Constantinople was also very fine. 
 The noise from the guns certainly made one think of the 
 horrors of war. 
 
 Next we witnessed the swimming races. They were 
 quite exciting to us, and more so to the people who knew 
 the contestants. San Francisco did herself credit, and 
 in one or more instances broke world records. There 
 [25] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 was one Hawaiian man who heretofore had carried off 
 all honors given here, for these native men, if trained, are 
 real athletes. The short races, those up to 225 yards, 
 were soon run and finished, but when it came to 880 yards 
 and a mile, it was quite another matter. It was interest- 
 ing to watch the different characteristics: some start off 
 boldly but drop out; some go on deliberately until the 
 end, etc. One of the contestants was a one-legged man. 
 He didn't even use crutches when out of the water, but 
 hopped around. We sat in the sun on benches for three 
 hours to see these races, so you may well imagine they 
 were worth while and were well managed. 
 
 We were home only one hour for lunch between this 
 morning's races and the one o'clock start in our car, for a 
 good corner from which to see the flower parade com- 
 fortably, without having to sit in the sun on one of those 
 awful backless boards that were made of no soft material, 
 I can assure you! I might as well tell jokes on myself 
 as on the other fellow: I started to read while waiting 
 this hour and a half, but the combined effect of the heat, 
 late hours, and the present quiet time made me so sleepy 
 that I put back my head and dozed off, thinking that no 
 one here would know me. On Monday I was asked, 
 "How did you enjoy your sleep out-of-doors on Satur- 
 day?" and soon discovered that at least four people who 
 knew us had seen me, so no more sleeps in public for me, 
 thank you! 
 
 The flower parade was quite good. Many of the floats 
 were designed to suggest some kind of business — such as a 
 man dressed entirely in blown-up auto tires — or some olden 
 time scene or native custom. Each Island was repre- 
 sented by a procession of mounted men and women, a 
 queen leading. Some of the private autos taking part 
 in this parade were decorated with natural flowers, but 
 
 [26] 
 
NEXT DAY — MOVING DAY 
 
 they showed the effect of the heat and sun so much that 
 those using artificial flowers really made the best appear- 
 ance. 
 
 After a six o'clock dinner on this same day we went 
 out again at seven to see the Japanese lantern parade, 
 which was very effective indeed. The best float was a 
 light-house with a real revolving light. Those near the 
 starting-point, however, are the only ones who saw it, 
 for the horse drawing it balked, seeming to prefer to soar 
 toward heaven rather than to remain on earth with vile 
 creatures and such nonsense as a "parade"! so he had 
 to be taken away home; but he was not thrashed, though 
 I confess I was wishing I could get out and give him a 
 lesson in obedience! 
 
 It is a pleasure to see people enter into things with such 
 enthusiasm as they do here — everybody either participated 
 or looked on during these festivities. It was beautiful 
 to see fathers hold children up in, and above, a crowd for 
 hours at a time. It interested me to see that there were 
 as many Japanese and Chinese on the grandstands as there 
 were white people or Hawaiians. These two nationalities 
 are very nice in their family life, especially the Chinese, 
 but I shall have more to say of that in some future letter. 
 
 On the last day of the carnival there was a military 
 parade, but as it was moving day for me, I sent my hus- 
 band to represent our large family. He said they made a 
 very good showing. There are, I believe, 8000 here now, 
 and more coming all the time — for these Japanese must be 
 watched! In the afternoon, when moving was pretty 
 well over, I left a maid unpacking and we went off to see 
 the tournament between different regiments. This was 
 wonderfully good — a marvel to those who had never seen 
 such a tournament, and a creditable showing to those who 
 were able to compare this one with others. The riding 
 [27] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 feats were very skilful; men rode four horses at one time, 
 having two feet on two horses and controlling the other 
 two, and while doing this even did jumping exercises, etc. 
 
 The artillery display was noisy, but it demonstrated to 
 what quick action men and horses could be trained. It 
 fascinated me to watch them place the guns, drive the 
 horses away, and turn the guns on the objective point, 
 all in an incredibly short period of time. In the "Tug 
 of War," or test of strength and grip of the hands, the 
 colored contestants were successful once and the white 
 men once. The jumping test was the means of giving us 
 all a good laugh, for though many of the men scaled that 
 eleven-foot fence in an instant, others were slow and 
 laughably awkward. The bridge that was constructed 
 in a few minutes was much stronger and looked better 
 than many county and state bridges I have seen made of 
 wood. The artillery wagons, many horses, and men went 
 over it to show its strength; then, after a sham battle, 
 one-half of the men, while still playing their guns on the 
 enemy, went over the bridge and blew it up behind them. 
 That noise must have shaken the earth, and helped one to 
 realize how awful must be the real thing. 
 
 That evening at nine o'clock, having received one of 
 their special engraved invitations, we went to the military 
 ball and enjoyed seeing the variety of uniforms mingling 
 with men's evening suits and ladies' fancy dresses. The 
 color effect was very remarkable, as you can readily imag- 
 ine when you try to picture 2000 people in one room. 
 We saw enough to satisfy two non-dancing, staid old 
 folks, who already had carnivalitis, and left at ten forty- 
 five, feeling that though we had thoroughly enjoyed every 
 feature of the carnival (except the band music), we were 
 not sorry that it had finished today — just in time for us 
 really to enjoy home life in our new home that we had just 
 
 [28I 
 
NEXT DAY MOVING DAY 
 
 entered. As we have now been in our home five days, 
 I believe you will be interested to know that the help are 
 quite satisfactory, though I do wish they knew more 
 English, for they always say "yes," and I never know 
 whether they understand or not. For instance, if you 
 had asked to have lemonade made and served to guests 
 in the evening, two of whom were to be dinner guests, 
 and when you are called to dinner there is the lemonade on 
 the table, how would you feel? But mistakes are less 
 embarrassing because everybody here understands and 
 excuses. The cook is really very fine, and so economical 
 that I hardly need to buy any food at all! We feel al- 
 ready that we could live better here on the same money 
 that it costs us in the States for half the time; in other 
 words, could live a whole year here for about what half 
 a year would cost at home. We have all fresh vegetables, 
 and have had them for lunch and dinner now for five 
 days, and still have some left, at a cost of eighty-five cents! 
 and as for the help, I can't discover yet what they eat. 
 The fish and lobster are delightful; we have had as de- 
 licious squab and steak as one could wish to eat, and we 
 get four squabs for ninety cents, where they are ninety 
 cents and a dollar a pair at home. 
 
 I am constantly more enthusiastic — in fact, we are, for 
 John sings Honolulu praises daily. He never looked or 
 felt so well; has to have all trousers made smaller, and 
 glories over me by saying he weighs the same as I do now 
 and will weigh less. Our golf is doing us both good. I 
 too find my clothes getting a little loose — and here's 
 hoping I lose a lot, though I am so well now I don't 
 mind carrying the weight. 
 
 If you can't realize how perfect it is here from my 
 descriptions, just come see and we will show you the time 
 of your life ! 
 [29] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 A CHRONICLE OF SOME OF THE THINGS THAT 
 MAKE TIME FLY IN HONOLULU 
 
 If you should ask me about the heat here and how we 
 stand it, I should say at once, do not credit the "120 in 
 the shade" story that a friend of mine repeats, for it 
 never applies to this wonderful climate, which never goes 
 below 57, and never goes above 85. Our experience has 
 been, too, that there is always a breeze except before a 
 shower, so either breeze or shower keeps one comfortable 
 all the time. We know neither cold nor heat — except 
 at golf some days it is hot in the valley. We sleep under 
 a blanket every night; we wear white clothes and shoes 
 nearly all the time, and enjoy them so much that we feel 
 sorry for those at home buried in overshoes, furs, and rain- 
 coats; those things are put out of sight here. . And as for 
 sleeping! it is wonderful how we trust all mankind and go 
 off to dreamland with no doors shut except the screens; 
 in fact, I know of no way to lock up this house, so we 
 "while living in Rome do as the Romans do" and have no 
 fear. Two-thirds of my large bed-room has windows in 
 place of walls, and there are two outside doors besides, 
 so you can readily imagine how we revel in fresh air and 
 would dislike living where we must be shut in. According 
 to the home papers — which we get here only twelve days 
 old — we have much to be thankful for in having escaped 
 this "mild" winter there, and nearly hourly we say, 
 "What if the home folks could see us living out-of-doors 
 and enjoying the blessed sunshine and even temperature!" 
 Indeed, we are truly thankful. 
 
 The golf links are the most difficult we have seen any- 
 where, but the scenery while playing surpasses that of 
 any links we know of. In one direction the sea, with 
 numerous boats, large and small, coming and going; and 
 
 [30] 
 
HOW TIME FLIES IN HONOLULU 
 
 from each of the other three sides mountains towering 
 above us. Some days climbing these mountains is hard, 
 especially if there is no breeze, and because of this previ- 
 ous exertion we never play more than eleven holes — usually 
 only ten. As hill climbing is recommended for "cor- 
 pulent people," we do it with a grin, and even in so short 
 a time have discovered slight progress in "reduction"; 
 we are hoping for more evident results before we leave. 
 Should you presume to ask how well we play, I could only 
 reply we do not "play" — we "exercise." However, 
 though I never handled a club before I came here, I keep 
 up with my husband and we play about alike. My 
 seemingly weak wrists, and really weak ankles, seem to 
 keep me off of the road called success, but I keep on trying 
 and may become quite proficient some day. 
 
 As for my kodak, it is surely a great pleasure for us, and 
 at times quite an exciting pastime, for I, like the children, 
 long to see the result the minute I have pressed the bulb — 
 and I have to wait the better part of two days before I 
 can see how many failures I have made, and, incidentally, 
 how many successes I may have scored. Mr. Perkins, 
 the photographer who does my developing, kindly tells 
 me my errors and how to avoid them, so I am learning 
 something each week, but still have so much to learn I 
 feel I know nothing as yet. I find time and interior ex- 
 posures very difficult and very fascinating. 
 
 Since we left the beach and came to our dear little 
 home we are too far away to do sea-bathing and golf 
 without giving up the entire day to it. As there are so 
 many other things to do, we have decided that two or 
 three times a week we will go direct from golf and have 
 our swim. We tried this plan last week for the first time. 
 We leave here at nine and return at one, having played 
 golf, motored about ten miles (to and from), and been in 
 [31] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 the sea for half an hour. For the benefit of those who re- 
 member how my "gude mon" used to dislike surf-bathing, 
 let me say that he really enjoys it while holding on to me, 
 and is now going to take swimming lessons from a native 
 man. It does me good to see people grow young instead 
 of old, and enter into the interests of outdoor life, for that 
 is a good road to health and happiness. 
 
 I am sorry if, in my enthusiasm over this country, I 
 repeat myself and weary you with twice-told tales, but 
 I can't possibly remember what I have written and sent 
 off! The flowers are very attractive, though there are not 
 so many varieties of those best known to us in the States. 
 The Bougainvillea in brick-red, scarlet, and purple is strik- 
 ingly beautiful, growing as it does in massive vines that 
 spread out forming arbors and covering buildings. It is 
 frequently grown to cover old buildings, and the result is 
 that the unsightly is covered and concealed by the flowers. 
 The hibiscus hedges are gorgeous, and the hundreds of va- 
 rieties of these flowers keep one continually surprised, for 
 there is always a new one to be seen; the double ones are 
 equal to roses. Roses themselves are not such a success 
 because of the Japanese beetle. There are nice roses, of 
 course, but they are not so plentiful because they require 
 so much more care. We are getting pansies, sweet peas, 
 asters, African (red) daisies, lilies, chrysanthemums, carna- 
 tions, and other kinds too numerous to mention, and all 
 very reasonable in price, too. I can keep three or four 
 vases full for fifty or seventy-five cents or a dollar a week. 
 
 We enjoyed very much a visit to Koko Head Mountain 
 wireless station. Two of the experts tried to explain that 
 intricate subject to us, but I feel sure I shall never be able 
 truthfully to say I understand it. 
 
 I can't remember whether I have told about seeing the 
 process of sugar making from the field to the bags in the 
 
 [32] 
 
ST. ANDREWS CATHEDRAL 
 
 HONOLULU 
 
HOW TIME FLIES IN HONOLULU 
 
 storehouses. The one mill we visited puts out 60,000 tons 
 a year at #65 a ton. Nine rollers crush the cane, put out 
 the part that becomes sugar, and so squeeze the pulp that 
 it is dry enough to be used for fuel to run the engines. 
 After my visit I can't see any warrant for the awful stones 
 that are heard about sugar being the dirtiest product put 
 on the market, for everything is done by machinery, all 
 of which looks, and is, clean; a human hand never touches 
 it in all its processes of manufacture. 
 
 I suppose that I should tell that I volunteered to do 
 some Lenten work, and as a result I am now singing alto 
 in the Cathedral choir. The organist and leader is a 
 young Englishman, Mr. Carter, who has sung or played 
 in cathedral choirs all his life. He is a good organist and 
 does very well with the voluntary choir. In the morning 
 it has about thirty singers; in the evening there is a joint 
 Chinese, Hawaiian, and Cathedral choir of about fifty 
 voices. We are to sing "The Crucifixion" on Good 
 Friday, and "Worthy is the Lamb" for the Easter an- 
 them. I feel quite at home doing choir work again, and 
 am so glad I can help a little. The choir members have 
 been, and are, beautifully attentive to me. The sweet 
 girls from the Priory school, especially, lavish attentions 
 upon me, and I sit in choir with one of them on either side 
 of me. The alto soloist is quite a noted singer — a Mrs. 
 Anderson; she has a truly beautiful voice. The new pipe 
 organ was used today for the first time, and was a great 
 treat to both choir and congregation after having only a 
 small organ for many weeks. 
 
 We were so glad to find here Rev. and Mrs. William 
 Reese Scott. He is chaplain out at Fort Shafter. He was 
 for years at Media, and knows so many we know. He has 
 been away from Philadelphia only five years, and has 
 been here only two months. They have called and soon 
 
 [33] 3 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 we are to entertain them here and be entertained there. 
 He is a very good preacher, and preaches at the Cathedral 
 every Wednesday evening during Lent; they are charm- 
 ing people to know. 
 
 It is surprising to us on the ground, and hardly con- 
 ceivable to those who do not know Honolulu, the num- 
 ber of automobiles there are here — certainly no less than 
 a thousand, and more coming in on every steamer. Well, 
 I can't see how people get along without one; I am sure 
 I wouldn't wish to try, for though the trolley service is 
 good, it is not overfrequent, to say the least, and there 
 are hilly distances to cover; we use ours constantly. 
 During our stay of more than a month now we have had a 
 car rented by the week, a Cadillac, with exclusive use of 
 car and man; we have had it out day and night, for long 
 runs and short ones, and haven't yet had a puncture or 
 trouble of any kind (I hold my hand on my wooden head 
 while I write!). We think that a very creditable record. 
 I should add that we get it very cheap, too, as compared 
 with anything we have ever had before, at home or 
 abroad. 
 
 I had the privilege of being invited as a guest of Mrs. 
 Restarick's to a native reception given out at the Country 
 Club. The decorations were beautiful beyond descrip- 
 tion. The gowns of the receiving party were designed 
 and ordered by the man who was responsible for the dec- 
 orations. Mrs. Shingle (don't worry, they never meet!), 
 the hostess, is one of five sisters, all very well married; 
 they are half white (one looks more so than I do just now!). 
 One is a princess, being the wife of the adopted son of the 
 present ex-queen. There were hundreds present, and I 
 met so many that my feeble brain was threatened with a 
 brain storm — names are a bugbear to me, and here I al- 
 ready have hundreds to remember. 
 
 [34] 
 
HOW TIME FLIES IN HONOLULU 
 
 And now you will wish to know about my birthday; 
 but you will remember that "February twenty-fifth" 
 this year was Ash Wednesday, so no festivities that day. 
 On the evening before Mr. and Mrs. McGrew dined with 
 us; our next-door neighbors, Mr. Butolph and his mother, 
 called at eight, and as it was just about time to cut the 
 birthday cake, they joined us for cake and cream. We 
 had quite a jolly time over the cake without candles! 
 They all spent the evening with us and left their congratu- 
 lations and best wishes. Having been in our home only 
 one day, I think we did very well. John asked the cook 
 to make the cake, so that was a surprise to me, and it was 
 a very pretty one. My gift was one that was purchased 
 at Grand Canyon — four Mexican opals, unmounted. 
 They are truly beautiful, and considered something quite 
 special because of special colors they contain. These you 
 may see after Caldwell's have done their artistic work of 
 setting them. As for the real day, — Ash Wednesday, — 
 we enjoyed every minute of it and did not lose many 
 minutes. First we went to the ten o'clock service at the 
 Cathedral — a fine service, a sermon by the Bishop, a fine 
 congregation. We were home only forty minutes at 
 lunch time, and left again to take the Bishop and a lady 
 singer to Schofield Barracks for service in the chapel there 
 — a fine attendance and a lovely service. Home two hours 
 at dinner time, then to the evening service at the Cathedral. 
 Rev. Mr. Scott preached on "Habit." He thoroughly 
 masters his sermons, and holds the attention of old and 
 young. After service I had my first rehearsal with the 
 choir. I have to remember that I am singing alto, but 
 I do love it better than soprano, and am so glad they 
 needed me on that side, though I am to help the sopranos 
 with the " Crucifixion." We are having a quiet and happy 
 Lenten season, and are so glad not to be touring round, as 
 [3Sl 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 we have been other years. We are enjoying lectures on 
 Thursday mornings on India, given by Dr. Staley, the 
 daughter of the first Bishop to Honolulu. I am taking a 
 few notes, and will give them to you at some future writ- 
 ing. It is a very interesting subject, and I am sorry 
 Elmendorf is lecturing in Philadelphia now, for I had 
 hoped to hear him on India. 
 
 The longer we stay here, the more we enjoy it, and con- 
 sider it ideal. We have very few mosquitos, no flies — 
 seasons of plenty of ants, but they are least annoying; 
 in fact, nothing to mar the pleasure of the outdoor life 
 or comforts of home either. 
 
 Some one has asked me how much it is a word for cable 
 to Philadelphia. Thinking others may be interested, I 
 will answer here that it is forty-seven cents per word: 
 thirty-five cents to San Francisco and twelve from there 
 to Philadelphia. 
 
 Does some one wonder what we have to eat? Well, I 
 could easier tell you what we haven't. There are water- 
 melons, strawberries, tomatoes, celery, cauliflower, string- 
 beans, new potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, spinach, 
 Chinese cabbage (very delicious) and our cabbage, taro 
 (roots of which are used as a potato or for making the 
 famous native poi, taro tops (used as spinach is), new peas, 
 lima beans, alligator pears, lettuce, fresh figs, wonderful 
 pineapple, beets, corn on cob, native oranges, artichokes 
 — sorry I didn't put fruits by themselves, but I am just 
 putting them down as I think of them, and I can't think 
 of them all by any means. All I have mentioned are fresh 
 goods of very best quality, and most of them grown on 
 these islands. Now do you think we live on vegetables 
 only? Well, I think not! There are live chickens and 
 squabs killed when you wish them; the best fish I ever 
 ate in my life: red snapper and Kumm, especially fine, 
 
 [36] 
 
HOW TIME FLIES IN HONOLULU 
 
 but very expensive because the Japanese control all the 
 deep-sea fishing. We use beef killed on this Island, very 
 good lamb — in fact I can*t think of anything we can get 
 at home and can't get here. Best leg of lamb is twenty 
 cents a pound; best tenderloin steak, twenty-five cents; 
 but chickens raised here are fifty cents a pound, and those 
 from the coast are forty, so what we save on meats we 
 spend on fowl, but it takes but little of either, for I can't 
 tell yet what the help eat — except rice and jelly. 
 
 How I wish you could hear my "Pigeon-English"! 
 "Two stop dinner" — that means guests, of course. 
 "Pau," finished, all ready, that is all. I can't write it, 
 but I talk it. I was amused when the maid wished 
 clothes'-line. She could not say it my way, so she took 
 out John's coat on hanger and pointed to the wire loop 
 and then to the coat, and said "dirty clothes." I said 
 immediately, "clothes'-line and pins," and she smiled the 
 smile that won't come off because I was so quick to under- 
 stand. We really get along beautifully, considering how 
 little English they speak, though the cook writes it quite 
 well, and spells correctly on his order lists for store and 
 market. But I must not allow myself to enthuse too 
 much about the help; they are very good and we are very 
 happy, but in the twinkling of an eye I may be doing 
 "chief cook and bottle-washing job" myself, for, as per 
 experience of others, I look hourly for an eruption of the 
 kitchen crater and then, Oh joy!! But "sufficient unto 
 the day is the evil thereof." 
 
 I should tell you that this (as you think it) little town 
 has all electric fire equipment, several ice plants, electric 
 light plants, and hundreds of other things that you 
 wouldn't believe possible until your see it. 
 
 It is now time to go out to a lecture, and this must get 
 off in the mail tomorrow, so farewell! until I write again. 
 [37] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 All keep as well and as happy as we do and you will be 
 very fortunate. 
 
 We are enjoying our Lenten season, and I am deeply 
 impressed by the never-ceasing activity of the Bishop and 
 his workers. They stick everlastingly at it. One dear 
 teacher tells me she hasn't any day or evening out of the 
 seven for herself. 
 
 Do come to Honolulu, and do try to come while we are 
 here! 
 
 Goodnight, and "Mizpah!" 
 
 AN "UNINSPIRED" LETTER 
 Besides lack of inspiration, this letter has back of it, I 
 fear, a little of what is known in the States as plain "lazi- 
 ness," though here it is called the "Hawaiian tempera- 
 ment" — lack of ambition. To show how some Hawaiians 
 live in ease and comfort I heard this story the other day, 
 which I think will bear repeating for the benefit of the 
 overcareful, precise, ambitiously correct Philadelphian. 
 A California lady came here with letters of introduction 
 to two gentlemen, who, though not born here, but in the 
 States, have lived here so long that they conform to 
 the customs of the people. Evidently the first one to 
 whom she presented her letter received her nicely at 
 his store, and learning that the second letter was ad- 
 dressed to a good friend of his, he graciously offered to 
 take the lady out to the home of his friend on the Sunday 
 following. She accepted his courtesy and they drove out 
 there and were cordially received by the gentleman of the 
 house on the lawn, and lo and behold! he was attired in 
 pajamas, and entertained them thus all the afternoon, and 
 never once suggested but that he was correctly dressed! 
 Needless to say, the lady was surprised; she also felt morti- 
 
 [38] 
 
AN ''UNINSPIRED'' LETTER 
 
 fied, but her escort did not seem to think it at all out of 
 the way, and informed her that his friend was simply- 
 enjoying the freedom and pleasure of his beach home. 
 Now I know this story to be true, but I do not know of any 
 like case, either from hearsay or personal observation, so 
 don't think that all here live in that much ease and com- 
 fort, and I am quite sure we will never come to it. 
 
 And here is another true story, told by a teacher in a 
 Chinese mission school: the teacher, after giving and ex- 
 plaining new words, asks each child to write a sentence 
 using the new word correctly. This day's new word was 
 "trestle," and one of the sentences read: "A good father 
 trestles his children while they go to school." When 
 the teacher insisted that it was not correctly used, the 
 child, quite indignant, insisted that she knew it was right 
 because the dictionary says trestle means support, "and 
 I know our father trestles us !" 
 
 Have I asked in any of my letters why Honolulu is the 
 richest city in the world? Answer: It has a Diamond 
 Head (mountain), a Pearl harbor, a Koko Head (moun- 
 tain), and a Punch-bowl (a crater). And now I will see if 
 I can write any sense. 
 
 I am in love (isn't that strange?) with — my Japanese 
 maid! I told you once that she is "nearly pretty"; 
 since I know her better, and also in accordance with the 
 expressions of some of my callers, I now leave off the 
 "nearly." Besides I was always taught that "pretty is 
 that pretty does," and that surely applies to this dear 
 sixteen-year-old. She says " I have four sisters and 
 brothers, two stop home, two stop school; she go home 
 Sundays and little sister call out: 'Mama, Kuma come, 
 come quick!'" She had worked only four months be- 
 fore coming to me, and I had feared I would have trouble, 
 but she is a wonder. She hunts work to do, insists upon 
 [39] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 doing up all table-cloths, and steals away with my fine 
 waists to do up. When I tell her she is "too young to 
 do much laundry," all she says is, "I like iron too (very) 
 much," and she does it beautifully. She is all smiles, and 
 so smart that I nearly envy her her ability to mimic and 
 to learn. She does all mending, and after I have worn a 
 dress she steals it out to her little house, and when I see 
 it next it is beautifully pressed. She is so clean — never 
 wears an apron, yet never has a spot. And such silence! 
 with two servants one could hardly believe it possible; 
 they speak in a whisper and work the same way. I often, 
 in my thought, compare them with noisy "Katie" or 
 "Mary" — isn't it strange? They wash up every dish 
 and pan before they eat any meal themselves, and except 
 rice, I can't see what they eat. The most fun I have had 
 for a long time was when I asked them if I might take 
 their pictures: "Yes, yes, tank you! tank you, tank you, 
 yes, yes!" and then the chatter in Japanese while I was 
 focusing, etc. It was rich to see and hear, and I am 
 hoping I secured fine pictures. Watanobe was quite abashed 
 because he had "no hat, no coat, they stop home." 
 In other words, he had come in the morning without hat 
 and coat. He is economy personified; he says: "Gas 
 stove cost too much, wood more better." "Why, Wat- 
 anobe?" "Wood cost seven eight dollar, gas ten dollar, 
 I tink." "Yes, but wood more trouble." "Oh no, more 
 better, more cheap, wood." When I didn't comply with 
 the first request to buy canned tomatoes, I received the 
 second request, so I asked: "Why you like can tomatoes?" 
 "Oh, more cheap, more cheap; fresh tomatoes more dear." 
 You may remember we live on top of a hill. The post- 
 man told Watanobe to tell us to put a letter-box down 
 front, but instead of telling us he made a wooden one him- 
 self out of a box and placed it down at the entrance. As 
 
 [40] 
 
AN ''UNINSPIRED'' LETTER 
 
 for his cooking — it is fine, though he declares "he no good 
 cook." But when I tell you that in more than a month 
 now we have not had the same dessert or salad twice, 
 and every one of them has been delicious, to say nothing 
 of all the rest of the cooked food, you will believe me when 
 I say we think ourselves most fortunate and happy to 
 have gotten him. He is married and lives at home, and 
 receives from us seven dollars a week. Kuma lives in a 
 little cottage back of ours and receives five per week. 
 
 As I sit on this lanai (porch) and write, with the beau- 
 tiful breezes blowing around me, I can but wonder how 
 you would like to have such climate there. Really, I 
 fear we will be two restless, miserable creatures if ever 
 closed in between brick walls and dirty streets again. 
 We are about ready to sing a song: "Honolulu forever!'' 
 and are looking at houses and lots already, so all who love 
 us would better plan to follow us to this " Paradise of the 
 Pacific," for it is the only place to live! 
 
 I have finished crocheting a navy blue tie for John, and 
 am now well started on a lavender one. I have issued 
 orders that he have his fat chin sliced some, so as not to 
 stain the new silk ties. As he weighs much less, he shows 
 he is making an effort to comply with my orders. He is so 
 well that he has to pinch himself to see how pain feels, and 
 so brown, that instead of looking like a United States man, 
 he looks like a native Hawaiian. I should be loath to 
 remark this, for I am not very white and emaciated look- 
 ing myself, and I too have to be reminded that nine months 
 ago I was "condemned to die." 
 
 I think I am a model wife, don't you? Why? Well, 
 because I am at home trying to write, while I have sent 
 my good husband out riding with two ladies! The fact 
 is that with golf, sea-bathing, candy making, two after- 
 noons a week as a Lenten offering for the Priory girls, 
 [41] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 "At home" every Thursday afternoon, and taking Priory 
 teachers, missionaries, etc., out riding, I can't keep up 
 with my writing, which is nearly sufficient to keep a sec- 
 retary busy. So today I said, "You go and do the honors 
 as host and ask the teachers to excuse the hostess," but 
 to show what a busy lady I am, I have to be dressed and 
 ready when John comes at five to go with him to make two 
 calls that are overdue now. 
 
 Our Thursday afternoons are very pleasant. We have 
 had twenty-one callers this first month, and for strangers 
 in town I think that is rather proving that we are not 
 "strangers!" Of course, that does not include those call- 
 ing on other days than Thursdays. In the month we have 
 had guests for two luncheons and four dinners; this num- 
 ber is small because we are avoiding any merry-making in 
 Lent. So far we have been invited out to only two dinners, 
 but people understand that we prefer not to be until after 
 Easter. 
 
 We are surely enjoying our Lenten season, and find it 
 such a contrast to the ones spent traveling! The ser- 
 vices and sermons are very much to our liking, and the 
 longer we know Bishop Restarick and Canon Ault, the 
 more we realize what a strenuous life of sacrifice they lead, 
 and how much of the wonderful success of the work here 
 is due to their untiring efforts and their love of the people. 
 Their wives are nice, helpful women too. I do enjoy my 
 choir work very much — haven't missed a service since I 
 started, and find singing alto much more interesting than 
 soprano. I have been asked to join the choral, but have 
 declined. 
 
 Do let me ask you to enlighten people who are under any 
 impression other than that Honolulu is part of the U. S. A. 
 It is a standing joke here what the States people say and 
 write about it — even in letters from Washington, and 
 
 [42] 
 
AN ''UNINSPIRED' > LETTER 
 
 from many people well versed in history, etc. And never 
 allow any one to think of the people here except as clean, 
 wholesome, educated, and progressive. I have just 
 learned that there is an automobile here for every six of 
 the white population. The newspapers here keep us in 
 touch with daily news from all parts of the world. 
 
 It is a good thing I didn't start to send this in diary 
 form this winter, for two reasons: not only would I have 
 failed to get it off promptly, but each day brings so much 
 that is the same as another that it would be uninteresting 
 matter to send home, though I do keep up my diary for 
 myself. 
 
 When I told you of the things that use up my time, I 
 didn't include my kodak, and I can tell you I spend many 
 hours experimenting with that, but I begin to feel en- 
 couraged now and believe I will learn eventually. 
 
 I want to say here that I answer (by a photo usually) 
 each letter received, so that if you do not receive my 
 answer you will know that either yours or mine has gone 
 astray. And should you have noticed a San Francisco 
 postmark on letters, I will explain that we did not run 
 up there in the car to mail them, but were merely too late 
 at the post-office for a ship's mail and took them down to 
 the mail bag on the ship. 
 
 I am hoping our Easter cards will be attractive and en- 
 joyed. I have not seen the finished work yet, but we 
 spent hours trying to get suitable pictures, and being an 
 amateur, it so happened that either focus, light, or back- 
 ground was always wrong; but at last we accepted, and 
 had finished, 150 in these two styles. 
 
 So that you may know how active we are, I might say 
 that I rise at six thirty to six forty-five every day and sel- 
 dom rest during the day. John rises at seven, or seven 
 fifteen (whenever I call him), and does find time for naps, 
 [43] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 but he doesn't look after household duties, crochet, kodak, 
 read something every day besides daily papers, and write 
 diary, etc. I can't remember to record all my mail, but 
 I have a record of over 200 pieces sent out so far, and that 
 does not include Hayes Home or choir postals or Easter 
 cards. I still must write to each recipient of a magazine, 
 and now I must rewrite my lecture on Palestine because 
 I have been asked to give it here and have not my manu- 
 script (my! how many times I wish for things in that house 
 trunk that was packed to be sent to California and is still 
 with Fidelity storage!). Today's isn't the only ride I 
 will have to forego. 
 
 I have been asked in a letter what tithes the people here 
 pay to Uncle Sam. Though I am not prepared to make a 
 technical reply, I might just say that all the government 
 here is under the United States and the same rulings are 
 in force. All tariff is, of course, an income to the United 
 States, and taxes are paid — even the income tax. 
 
 I was also asked why there are so many Orientals (Jap- 
 anese and Chinese) here. The question of labor for the 
 cane plantations first brought them, and now there are 
 at least fifteen nationalities here. The Porto Ricans 
 and Filipinos are considered a menace because so unlike 
 the cleanly, honest, quiet Oriental home-seeker. As to 
 the answer to the question : "Are many of them Christians ?" 
 I am sorry I cannot give any authentic figures, so will not 
 attempt any definite answer, but will say that our own 
 church alone has eleven congregations in Honolulu, and 
 there are many others among other denominations. Our 
 Bishop considers the Chinese the most religious people 
 here. They are doing a wonderful work among their own 
 people: are just now building a new church, because they 
 have outgrown their old one. They give of time and money 
 freely, and are very faithful in attendance at services. 
 
AN ''UNINSPIRED'' LETTER 
 
 Though there are some heathen temples here, there can't 
 be many, for I haven't seen one yet — and surely if "Chris- 
 tianity" is to be judged by a life of honesty and industry, 
 I should think there is a great deal of it among the Ori- 
 entals. I am hoping to give a lecture on Honolulu next 
 fall, and if I do, I shall try to have some data along this 
 as well as other lines which I haven't now. 
 
 We are still struggling with the technicalities of golf, 
 and fully understand why it is said to be the hardest of 
 games to learn. We have each had one lesson, and I am 
 soon to have my second, and hope to learn some day how 
 to avoid the earth and the air and send a ball in the right 
 direction. There is one thing to be said in our favor — we 
 haven't either one of us yet lost a ball that was not found 
 with a little hunting. 
 
 John has had his first two swimming lessons from men — 
 and I can't say how many from me; all I can say is, if 
 any of you want to do Lenten penance, just try to teach 
 a man to swim who says he can't get his feet up! But I 
 "cheer up," for he will do it, I believe, before Lent is over, 
 and he enjoys the water so much that it is worth while, 
 though he be slow to have confidence in himself. I ex- 
 pect to be quite muscular soon, but am not sorry he weighs 
 less! 
 
 We saw a twelve-inch gun the other day that requires 
 twenty-five men to handle it. 
 
 We have been to a lecture on the care of tuberculosis, in 
 which Dr. Sinclair, the lecturer, shows that this disease 
 takes a toll of 200,000 annually in the United States — 
 10,000 in New York city alone; and here an average of 
 one a day — entirely among the Orientals, who leave their 
 out-of-door lives and homes, and, coming here, try to 
 adapt themselves to our mode of living, which, with their 
 large families, makes it necessary to crowd into small, 
 [45] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 badly ventilated places to live. The death-rate from 
 tuberculosis here is more than 50 per cent, greater than 
 that from any other disease. But I should tell you that 
 I have seen but one funeral in nearly two months. I 
 think that speaks well for the climate and the life here. 
 
 From the way I have rambled on, I fear you will think 
 I have a brain storm or nervous prostration; I haven't 
 either, but am just chatting as I would if I could talk with 
 you. 
 
 I think I told you I had taken pictures of my "loved 
 ones," the Japanese pair that run this household. Now I 
 can tell you that they turned out fairly well. The two 
 dear souls have Sunny Jim's laugh, or the "smile that 
 won't come off," and again I have had a "tank you, tank 
 you" from them. Two friends happened in today, just 
 in time to see Kuma, "the short of it," trying to hook 
 up the gown of Mrs., "the long of it," and were enjoying 
 the way I bent my knees and the intensity of her interest 
 in her work, when I discovered them all ready for a 
 laugh — which we had after the little jewel had left the 
 room. 
 
 I think I have told you how cheap food is here; now I 
 must tell you of this week's experience: I was down at 
 market and suddenly spied watermelons, so set my heart 
 on having one at once. Fortunately, I asked the price, 
 and I nearly fell down when told: "One dollar half." 
 When I turned and asked some one if the man had meant 
 "a half dollar," he said, "No, they never go below #1.50 
 here because of a certain bug that destroys the vine and 
 makes it nearly impossible to grow them." You may say 
 you have seen them cost that much at home; well, so have 
 I, but not one so round and small that it would go into a 
 half-peck measure! I need hardly tell you that I very 
 quickly decided that watermelon was not good for us, and 
 
 [46] 
 
EASTER SUNDAY IN HONOLULU 
 
 that we would much prefer a dessert made by the "dear 
 Jap " anyway ! How is that for economy ? We are getting 
 fresh asparagus from the Pacific coast now, and find it 
 quite good, though never like that grown in the East. 
 And have I told you what delicious lobsters we get? 
 Certainly just as fine as in Maine, and quite inexpensive: 
 we can get two for seventy or eighty cents. 
 
 We do enjoy the home mail, and always feel relieved 
 after reading that all is well on both sides of the house. 
 We are sorry for every one who had to brave the hard, 
 bad weather, and doubly so for those who suffered any 
 injuries or even discomforts because of it, and we are 
 truly thankful to have been able to escape it. We have 
 had four mails in and four out this week; how does that 
 read to any one who may think we are isolated or far 
 from home? 
 
 And now, that my readers may not be subjected to 
 "brain storm," and that this may not have to go as a 
 package, rather than a letter, and that I may keep some- 
 thing to tell you next time, I will say "Mizpah" and good- 
 night! 
 
 EASTER SUNDAY 
 With a heart full of Easter joy I greet you today, hoping 
 that you have had the perfect day there that we have had 
 here, and that you enjoyed as fine service or services as 
 we have. Our morning service crowded the Cathedral 
 at eleven. Chairs had to be put in every available place. 
 And I should tell you that that congregation was composed 
 of only whites and English-speaking people (the Chinese 
 having their own church and service, and the Hawaiians 
 having their separate service in the Cathedral at nine 
 fifteen) and I am not saying how many worshiped in the 
 two early communion services, but heard the Bishop say 
 [47] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 that people thronged to these early services — I say, when 
 one sees or knows of all this evidence of a spirit of worship, 
 it is impossible not to be stirred and inspired. And now, 
 before I can write further, I must put away my work and 
 go out to see the children's three o'clock service in the 
 Cathedral. At that time all the Sunday schools under 
 the Bishop's care have a procession into the Cathedral 
 and there present their Easter offerings, and how happy 
 they are! and how they have worked to earn pennies! 
 They have not been above doing anything if it be honor- 
 able, to earn something for their mite boxes. The whole- 
 hearted, sincere, and happy disposition of the people here 
 is very inspiring, and might well be a lesson to thousands 
 in other places. 
 
 Now we have returned from the children's service and 
 feel that we might go the world over and never see such 
 a sight elsewhere! Each Sunday school marched to the 
 Cathedral with its banners flying, and were seated as they 
 arrived until they finally filled the entire Cathedral. 
 Then the joint choirs of the several missions and all the 
 clergy came in and filled the entire chancel, having to use 
 extra chairs. They then had their usual service of carols, 
 evening prayer, and sermon, after which one member of 
 each mission responded to the roll call of the missions and 
 went forward to the altar, bringing with him or her a white 
 bag distinctly marked with the name of the mission and 
 the amount of the Lenten offering which it contained. 
 Last year's Sunday School offering from the Islands to our 
 Board of Missions was one thousand dollars. They are 
 hoping for more this year, but will not know the amount 
 for a couple of weeks yet. Then there were carols and 
 hymns, and each school marched up and down the aisles, 
 out into the Cathedral close, and back into the church 
 to finish the service. I could never begin to describe the 
 
 [48] 
 
EASTER SUNDAY IN HONOLULU 
 
 scene so that you could have any idea of its unique quality 
 and picturesque setting. There were about 800 children, 
 and they represented about twenty different nationalities, 
 those standing out most prominently being the Koreans, 
 Japanese, Chinese, Hawaiians, and whites. This service 
 is considered quite remarkable, and numbers of people go 
 to see it each year, having to stand or to sit on chairs in 
 the vestibule to see it at all. I took several pictures of it, 
 but do not anticipate any phenomenal success, for moving 
 objects are not easily taken at best. I am hoping for 
 some good ones, however. 
 
 This evening the Knight Templars will come to the 
 service in a body, and again the church will be crowded. 
 I should think the clergy would take great satisfaction in 
 their work here, for the people respond so well. This 
 morning's collections were fourteen hundred dollars, and 
 they hope by the close of the day to have twenty-five 
 hundred, so that the last payment may be made on the 
 ten thousand dollar organ just finished. Bishop Restarick 
 is so beloved and respected that people say of him: "If 
 he asks for anything, he gets it." He surely is a plunger, 
 never ceasing day or night, and his delight in the work 
 done at the Priory is wonderful. He feels a personal 
 interest in every one of those ninety boarders, and seems 
 to love each one. To see his face when he whispered to 
 me this morning before service that the Priory girls had 
 an Easter offering this year of a hundred and forty-one 
 dollars, as against eighty-six last year, would have cheered 
 any heart; he is so proud of their love for, and devotion 
 to, the work of the church. These girls are of all ages 
 from five to twenty. I can't myself see how any one could 
 help loving them, they are so sweet and lovable! They 
 are of all the national mixtures you can imagine. I 
 think I told you of the one here from Chestnut Hill — 
 [49] 4 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 half Chinese, half Irish. Bishop brought her from New 
 York to California alone last fall, then he and his wife 
 brought her here. She is a dear, and the pet of all who 
 know her, but afraid of us for fear we will take her home 
 again. 
 
 My, how I rattle on and change the subject every other 
 line! but my mind works faster than my hand. 
 
 Now I want to say a little about the Lenten season. I 
 cannot tell of all the services, but every day there was one 
 at 8.45 a. M. and 5.10 P. M. A children's service at four 
 on Fridays. Every morning the Priory girls and the 
 Iolani School (boys) came in procession and filled the ^^^ 
 greater part of the Cathedral. The girls wear veils made^* 
 of white muslin held on over the front of the head with an 
 elastic, and they do look so sweet! I wore one myself 
 on Good Friday because I sang for the three-hour service 
 with the Priory girls' choir, and they wear no other vest- 
 ment than these veils. Several remarked how well the 
 old married woman looked in her veil! Having men- 
 tioned the subject, I want to tell you here about that beau- 
 tiful and inspiring three-hour service. The Cathedral 
 was filled, and a third of the number were men — just think 
 of that for a service from twelve to three! The Bishop 
 gave ten-minute talks on all of the different last words of 
 Christ before His crucifixion, and applied them to the 
 present. He tells us that he had many letters thanking 
 him for the helpful service. / surely enjoyed that three 
 hours — so much so that I was not conscious of its being 
 longer than any other service. 
 
 I am much impressed with the general spirit of this city 
 during Holy Week. There seemed a cessation of all social 
 functions during the entire week, and a marked demonstra- 
 tion of their regard for Good Friday, most of the business 
 places being closed at noon. Another thing that inter- 
 
 [ 50 ] 
 
EASTER SUNDAY IN HONOLULU 
 
 ested me was the noonday services during Holy Week: 
 they were held on the roof garden of the largest hotel, and 
 were well attended by men and women. Our Bishop 
 preached on Monday, and the clergy of other denomina- 
 tions pn the other days. The services consisted of music 
 and good sermons, all of them on the "last words" and 
 the "last acts." I must not tire you, but I have been so 
 greatly impressed. by the general observance of Lent here 
 that I can't help t^tflfcing about it. I haven't told you, I 
 think, that on eacnWednesday evening Chaplain William 
 Reese Scott, who was at one time at Media, preached at 
 the Cathedral and seems to be thought of as the best 
 preacher here. He is not only a fine preacher, but a fine 
 pastor as well to these army men, and a charming man 
 personally. 
 
 If you want to know about the music, you ought not to 
 ask a choir member! But I will tell you what some others 
 said, as several spoke to me expressing an opinion; all 
 seemed to agree that the "Crucifixion," which we sang 
 on Wednesday night, was better rendered than on any 
 previous year, and that the Easter music was "beauti- 
 fully sung." Perhaps I haven't told you what we sang: 
 "Worthy is the Lamb," from Haydn's Messiah; Wood- 
 ward's Communion service; and Harwood's Te Deum in 
 A flat. The choir is entirely volunteer, but they have 
 some very good talent, among them being a contralto 
 trained abroad. She trained expecting to sing in grand 
 opera, but a lawyer came along, and though in five years 
 he saw her only five times, he never would take "no" for 
 an answer, so he met her in Switzerland without waiting 
 for the letter that was to bring her final answer, and which 
 said "wo," and as a woman has the privilege of changing 
 her no to yes, they were married there and came here to 
 live. She is a darling! She was calling here one day and 
 l5i] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 told John that she and I being the two married ladies in 
 the choir, should be the staid and dignified ones, but in- 
 stead of that we were like two girls together. She has a 
 truly beautiful voice. I have already been asked to re- 
 main in the choir until we leave, and to become a per- 
 manent member of it when we return here to live. There 
 is one trained and very sweet voice among the men, but 
 most of them are quite good. One of them said to John 
 the other day: "I saw you in church yesterday." John 
 replied, "Yes, I am usually or always there, for my wife 
 sings in the choir." He exclaimed, "Indeed, so do I. 
 Is your wife the lady with glasses?" You can draw your 
 own conclusion from this as to the number of glasses worn 
 in the choir! 
 
 Now I must tell you more of our happy Easter, for not 
 only did we enjoy the church services that I have told 
 you about, but as usual I was a pet, and received many 
 things I must tell you about. First I must tell you that 
 I presented "Hubby" with a lavender tie I had crocheted, 
 and he wore it with his full white suit, and looked a picture 
 — but that is not strange, for he always looks so lovely in 
 white clothes that I am sorry his Philadelphia family and 
 friends cannot see him in them. This was tie number two 
 since coming here, so you see I have no idle moments. 
 Now back to my presents: I received two boxes from 
 Philadelphia containing five presents, and we both re- 
 ceived many cards from home, and some from here. And 
 as for flowers: there was one bunch of violets, one bunch 
 of African daisies, three dozen pink carnations, two dozen 
 yellow chrysanthemums, and last, but not least, I re- 
 ceived from a gentleman a darling tiny straw hat, trimmed 
 and in a bandbox, and under the hat a little pasteboard 
 house. When he presented it he said I would excuse 
 slang if he said that he knew that I had had a house under 
 
 [52] 
 
EASTER SUNDAY IN HONOLULU 
 
 my bonnet for some time. Lest you may not understand 
 his meaning, I will right here explain that he is a friend 
 who has acted as broker for his friend, Mr. Davies, and us, 
 in selling us the new beach home of his friend. Now isn't 
 that a happy thing for me to be able to write? We are 
 walking on air with joy at the prospect of most of the 
 future being spent here, going home each fall to visit. 
 How does this read to those of my friends who wrote me: 
 "You can love Honolulu all you like, just so you don't 
 love it better than Philadelphia " (well, I do all right, and 
 who would not?), or the ones who said: "Some day you 
 will want to be living there !" Yes, you both and all 
 prophesied very well, and I have yet to know of any one 
 seeing the beauties here without wishing to remain. Just 
 this morning I overheard in the bath-house: "Oh, Jessie, 
 isn't it wonderful here? Wouldn't you like to stay for- 
 ever?" and the reply: "Yes, by Jove, all my life!" And 
 they only came in on the ship this morning and leave to- 
 night for the Orient. 
 
 As for the new home, I might say a great deal, but time 
 forbids; enough to say for the present that the house was 
 finished just before last Christmas, that it is furnished, 
 except with linens, and that it is one of the very few most 
 desirable lots on the beach. We can step off our lawn 
 into the sea, and from the road entrance we have a beauti- 
 ful lawn well covered with palms. The property was not 
 for sale, but the owner is going to England for a year, and 
 as they have a very fine town residence, and their sugar 
 business has had such a slump, he said to his friend, and 
 ours, "You can offer your friends my beach home!" We are 
 being congratulated in all directions on being able to se- 
 cure that property, and as to the beautiful reception 
 given us ever since we arrived, it is now very much accen- 
 tuated — since it is known that we are to become residents. 
 [S3] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 We feel as though we had known the people here for years, 
 and already have many very good friends. We now antic- 
 ipate going into our home on the twenty-third of this 
 month, having been offered the use of table linen and bed 
 linen by two friends until our home box reaches here early 
 in May. The house is furnished with everything else we 
 need. I do wish you all might see this object of our pres- 
 ent excitement and surplus joy. I can only hope that we 
 can persuade many home people to come here to visit — 
 or, better still, to stay. 
 
 You will be interested to know that Kuma is still a rare 
 jewel; she is a most lovable creature, and very enthusi- 
 astic about the new home. She says: "Yes? Too nice" 
 (too always meaning very), "too nice; Mister too much 
 money. Waikiki, nice, too nice. ,, And could you have 
 seen her face and heard her joyful: "Too much flowers !" 
 each time a bunch arrived on Saturday, it would have 
 done you good. 
 
 Watanobe is only to be with me until we move to the 
 beach. He is not kind to Kuma, and as he offered to leave, 
 I said "All right." I have engaged Mrs. Davies' cook, a very 
 fine man (a Jap), so no trouble, but everybody " 'appy." 
 
 I was much interested to see flags hung at some door- 
 ways, Japanese people and their children wearing a 
 piece of crepe, and all the Japanese stores closed on Sat- 
 urday, just when they might have done much business, 
 being the day before Easter — all because of the death of 
 the Empress of Japan, thus showing that they are still 
 loyal to the country they wouldn't go back to live in, 
 and I admire them for it. 
 
 Do you home-keepers know about a jam or preserve 
 made of rhubarb, with orange and orange peel sliced 
 through it? I had never heard of it, and we think it very 
 good. That is only one of many things I have eaten and 
 
 [54] 
 
EASTER SUNDAY IN HONOLULU 
 
 liked that I had never seen prepared in the same way be- 
 fore. We haven't had a dish yet that we have not en- 
 joyed. 
 
 I was amused at what Mrs. Davies told me today about 
 her — and my — new cook. When I asked if he had any 
 peculiarities that I should know, she said, "He is very 
 fond of making good things, and you may think him 
 extravagant with milk and eggs and cream; if you do, 
 just tell him so, and after that, when you order something 
 made, he may ask you, as he often does me, "rich man's 
 or poor man's style?" 
 
 Some one has asked how far we are from home. I will 
 reply here, for the benefit of any other wondering one 
 who may not know: we are a little over 5000 miles, it 
 being about 2100 from here to San Francisco. 
 
 Any one writing us before, or on, May 15th can send 
 it here, Kalia Road, Waikiki; after that it will be safer 
 to send all mail to the Philadelphia office. Our summer 
 address seems very uncertain. Since the box of linen and 
 silver is coming here so that we can use our home and then 
 rent it until our return, we feel more inclined to give up 
 the idea of having a home in California this summer, but 
 rather think we will motor for three months, seeing 
 Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, and the entire state of California. 
 
 If my record is true, it looks as though I haven't written 
 one of these letters since March 25th. I am sorry if I 
 have been so delinquent, but I must confess I can't 
 promise to mend my ways in the future, for I believe that 
 from now on, since Lent is over, and since it is known that 
 we are residents of Honolulu, we will be very busy folks 
 every day, so never look for more than a photo acknowl- 
 edging your individual letters. 
 
 For tomorrow I have accepted a luncheon invitation, 
 and in the evening we are going to the opera house to hear 
 ISSl 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 a violin recital. For Wednesday evening we have some 
 guests that we are taking out to the Country Club to a 
 dance, and we find the special attraction to be a demon- 
 stration of the new dances by a man expert, rather than 
 the dancing itself. On Thursday afternoon I go to a re- 
 ception as a guest of honor. On Friday we take the 
 Bishop and Canon Ault on an all-day automobile trip 
 around this Island, and on Saturday I have invited two 
 guests to dinner and two others to join us in the evening 
 to go to see an exhibition by an artist of colored slides of 
 pictures he has taken on the Island. Now I haven't put 
 down in this outline the golf, swimming, and other inci- 
 dentals, but just given you an idea of the way a part of 
 the time is occupied. I have just now come from quite 
 an American party, where we saw hundreds of children 
 rolling eggs on one of the fine lawns here. It was at the 
 home of Ex-Governor Frear, and I said "American," be- 
 cause the Frears first saw this egg-rolling ceremony in our 
 city of Washington on the White House lawn, and they 
 came home inspired to give to all the first- and second- 
 grade school children of Honolulu the chance to have such 
 a party on Easter Monday of each year. And there we 
 saw playing all together, as one people, many classes and 
 kinds of children: Koreans, Japanese, Chinese, Portu- 
 guese, Hawaiians, and whites. It is beautiful to me to 
 see them mingle. The hostess and others had dyed eggs 
 for children who had none, and seemed to make more fuss 
 over them than over the well-to-do ones. It is the beau- 
 tiful spirit of no class distinction that makes one admire 
 the people here — there seem to be a place and room for 
 every one. As there are so many intermarriages, it is 
 the usual thing to ask a child what he is. To this question 
 the other day one of them answered me: "I am half 
 Hawaiian, half Chinese, and half White" — you see there 
 
 [56] 
 
6 6 c « C 
 
ANOTHER EPISTLE FROM HONOLULU 
 
 is more to the people here than you ever knew of when you 
 went to school! I still continue to respect, admire, and 
 like the Chinese people; they have traits of character 
 that we would do well to copy. 
 
 You may remember that I asked you why rjonolulu is 
 the richest country in the world, and if you recall the 
 answer, just add to it that it has an Emerald sea. 
 
 I have been asked if my good husband has become an 
 expert on the surf board as Jack in "One Month in Hono- 
 lulu,'" which I sent many of my readers. I wish to say 
 that we have neither of us yet ventured to display our 
 avoirdupois on surf boards, but are quite content to en- 
 joy the surfing in canoes. If I have mentioned the candy 
 making that I have been doing during Lent for the Lenten 
 offering of the Junior Auxiliary of the Priory, I should 
 tell you that we cleared somewhere between twenty-five 
 and thirty dollars, and had the work been better known? 
 much more could have been realized. 
 
 Now I must cease my chatter to avoid brain storm for 
 us both. You are all very good to read my epistles and 
 to say such nice things about them. Greetings and love 
 to all! 
 
 ANOTHER EPISTLE FROM THE "PARADISE OF 
 THE PACIFIC' 
 I have always maintained that I needed inspiration to 
 write these home letters, but now that I know they have 
 been called "classics," "works of art," "marvels of liter- 
 ature" (all by those who love me and know I need en- 
 couragement), and are passed to unknown friends to read, 
 I quake with fear, for I have always been conscious of the 
 errors and of the hasty writing, and now, with my mind 
 and heart so full of this our own home, I am sure I can't 
 
 [S7l 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 write sense — but I can, and do, ask you one and all to 
 come over and see for yourselves the beauty of these 
 Islands and of this beach home. 
 
 While I write now I sit on one of our lanais, hearing the 
 sea beat against our sea wall, and looking up I can see at 
 a glance the beautiful sapphire and emerald sea (there 
 being many shades and colors of water due to the several 
 channels, and the effect of the sun upon them), and our 
 wonderful Hau tree that is at least three hundred years 
 old. Part of it covers our boat house and one of the large 
 bath-houses, and on the sea front a lanai of 50 x 20 feet, 
 where we have a table, chairs, a hammock, and plenty of 
 room for dances, if only we were trained in that art. Nor 
 is this all, for it forms a bower or hedge for about fifty 
 feet on one side of our lot; and we also have a lesser one 
 on the other side of us, so we do well when trying to de- 
 cide on a name for our "estate" to consider the Hawaiian 
 name, "Hau oli," meaning joyful or gladness, and so 
 strikingly including and calling attention to the Hau 
 tree. We have not finally decided upon this name, but 
 fear we cannot ask for suggestions, for we prefer using 
 a Hawaiian name, and think few away from here would 
 be an authority on this strange but rather pretty lan- 
 guage. 
 
 But I think I started to tell you what I can see from 
 where I am sitting to write, and, as usual, I branched off. 
 I will just add that it being so near the sea you might con- 
 clude that our lawn was of sand; instead we have beau- 
 tiful grass, and many ferns in tubs, and cocoanut palms 
 growing — but it is too nice to describe, so I must not at- 
 tempt it any further. And now you will wish to know 
 about the house. Well, that too is too much for me to 
 give a graphic description of: the rooms (nine and three 
 baths) are all large, with so many windows that there is 
 
 [58] 
 
ANOTHER EPISTLE FROM HONOLULU 
 
 little wall space for pictures or furniture. All woodwork 
 is white, and all papers light in tone — a more cheerful 
 house, or one with more windows and chances for air and 
 "view," could not be built. The main front entrance is 
 back from the road about ioo feet, that space being cov- 
 ered with lawn, trees, flowers, and palms. On one side is 
 the entrance to the kitchen, and on the other side, and on 
 the sea front, are entrances to the lanais that open into 
 the den, the dining-room, and the hallway leading up- 
 stairs. There are sleeping porches upstairs sufficient to 
 start a hospital — I will reserve them for my Philadelphia 
 friends and family, and for those who cannot sleep out- 
 side I can make several very comfortable bedrooms in- 
 doors. The first floor is quite comfortably furnished, and 
 two of the bedrooms are, but we will have to make quite 
 a number of changes when we return here in January. 
 The Davies, the previous owners, have a very fine town 
 home, so never felt any necessity for furnishing this com- 
 pletely, and some of the things they did have were not 
 included in our purchase. But we are very comfortable 
 even now, and the house is in order, and clean and fresh 
 looking, which is not surprising when you remember that 
 it was built last fall and tenanted only since last De- 
 cember. This lot has been owned by the Davies family 
 for many, many years, and originally had a native grass 
 house upon it. The depth of the whole property is more 
 than 500 feet; it is in two lots, one being on the other side 
 of the road; there we have a small cottage for a home for 
 the chauffeur, another cottage with three rooms for ser- 
 vants, a garage with room for two cars, and a laundry, and 
 you can't imagine how happy I am not to have all these 
 buildings on our front lot, as most people are compelled 
 to do. We are receiving congratulations all the time — 
 first, for having decided that we wished to have a home 
 [59] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 here, and secondly, for having been able to buy this most 
 desirable location and new house, and from people of such 
 wealth that they had no good reason for selling and had 
 not placed the property on the market at all. It was all 
 due to our good friend Mr. Butolph, an Ohio man whose 
 mother is visiting him here. Because of my admiration 
 for, and attentions to, his mother we have come to know 
 him quite well; he is the kind of man who can answer 
 every question you ask him, and yet never says "I," and 
 is always good company. Unfortunately for him and 
 for some nice girl he hasn't a "better half," and though 
 his dear mother has been making him annual visits of 
 several months at a time, I fear that when she leaves here 
 on May 6th she will probably never return, for she is 
 seventy-five years of age. Up to two weeks ago she 
 seemed not more than fifty, but since then has broken 
 very much and now is very frail. She is loved by all who 
 know her. They lived next door to our other home, so 
 I saw her quite frequently. 
 
 Now I will begin my chat again, though I know I shall 
 soon be interrupted, for I am expecting several in to after- 
 noon tea any minute — but that is the way I have to do all 
 my writing, just a little at a time — and there goes the 
 bell now! * * * Seventy-four hours later is my first 
 chance to continue this. Such a busy day I have had! 
 interviewing telephone men, plumbers, electricians, and 
 servants. Have, besides, had nearly two hours at golf, 
 did some shopping, had lunch, read a bunch of mail, and 
 dressed, then went out to be one of four receiving at a re- 
 ception given in honor of "the four." I did not get in 
 until nearly six, and have some one coming at seven- 
 thirty, so if this goes ofF in tomorrow's ship, as it should, 
 I shall feel I have accomplished something in telling you a 
 little. 
 
 [60] 
 
ANOTHER EPISTLE FROM HONOLULU 
 
 Each hour, day, and month make us more happy to 
 know that we have the privilege of anticipating being resi- 
 dents of Honolulu, and since we are in our home, we rather 
 think it a shame to leave here in June. Just now I am 
 writing on the lanai under the Hau tree, the sea splashing 
 at my feet, and the sun setting over my shoulder, and 
 what more could one ask for? 
 
 As most of you know Watanobe, I must tell you that he 
 proved to have a bad temper, which though never mani- 
 fested to me, was displayed to Kuma to the extent of abuse, 
 so he is "pau" (finished), and I have Mrs. Davies' cook. 
 He is an excellent cook and a very agreeable man. As 
 neither he nor Kuma was willing to run this house with- 
 out another helper, I have his wife, so now I must re- 
 member to say Nishi and his wife Shiyo, and Kuma, and 
 the gardener, Shumida. When I learn all these names I 
 shall feel that I am becoming a linguist; and since I man- 
 age a husband and four servants, — in fact, five, including 
 the chauffeur, — I think I am quite an important creature, 
 needing much grace. So far, however, none of them has 
 given me trouble, but rather, on the contrary, they save 
 me much: when I have to hunt in my own kitchen for 
 things I realize how much I depend upon the helpers 
 there. But though I haven't much to do out there, I can 
 do it when necessary; for instance, last week I cooked two 
 meals in one day, between the time that one cook went 
 and the other came, and my husband is still with me, and 
 didn't call in a physician, but kindly announced to some 
 one that I can always do well all that I attempt — even 
 cooking; now isn't he kind? And yesterday I did, as I 
 have done each Sunday (but will not have to do again since 
 I have an extra girl), got one meal for us, and, in addition 
 to that, I served afternoon tea to several, for one of the 
 beauties of this location is that we can make others who 
 [61] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 haven't a beach home, and are busy all the week, feel that 
 they can enjoy with us the beauties and comfort of our 
 sea front and lanais. 
 
 Well, it's no use now to try to finish this up in a sensible 
 way: before my seven-thirty caller left three others ar- 
 rived. I enjoy seeing people as much as I do writing, 
 but am sorry that it is impossible to do both at the same 
 time. Now it is lunch time; then dress to go out to the 
 Ladies' Guild meeting at the church, and home in time 
 to be ready for any callers that may come, for Tuesday is 
 our "day" for this district; then we are to have two dinner 
 guests — and the ship sails this afternoon, so off this must 
 go, regardless! With it go our heartfelt wishes that you 
 may all be as well and happy as we, and that you can live 
 out-of-doors as we can here. We are slowly improving 
 in golf, but in our moments of discouragement are told 
 that it takes years of practice, so we still hope to play 
 well some time. As for swimming: now we get out of 
 bed, don bathing suits, and skip down-stairs and into the 
 sea and watch the sun rise. 
 
 Another bunch of mail today leaves us glad that all at 
 home are well and that people there were glad to receive 
 the Easter cards, and that those who received the photo- 
 graphs, one and all, seem to agree that we look the part 
 of "very well." I feel quite slighted, for all are so truth- 
 ful that they say John looks thinner, but never such a 
 word do they give to encourage and flatter rne. Well, 
 never mind, health is better than a sylph-like figure! 
 Do save your pennies and come to see us and this haven 
 of rest and joy. Aloha! 
 
 62 
 
HONOLULU, MAY FOURTEENTH 
 
 HONOLULU, MAY FOURTEENTH 
 
 Now are you wondering why the change from pencil to 
 pen ? My supply did not last indefinitely, and when I sent 
 away for some more, my good friend sent me this, as no 
 duplicate of mine could be found. I am sure you will be 
 glad to see the ink — and so am I if my fountain-pen will 
 come off the strike it has been on for a couple of weeks — 
 it is worse than some of the army mules! 
 
 Where shall I start this ? What do you wish I would tell 
 you? My mind. and heart hold too much I should like to 
 share with you ever to write the half of it. Just tonight 
 I can think of but three important subjects, so I better 
 clear my system of them first: Today Mrs. Restarick 
 gave a large reception in my honor. Their home was 
 beautifully decorated — first with lovely flowers, many of 
 them sent by people who were unable to be present; and 
 secondly by lovely gowns far beyond my describing. 
 Many of the ladies I had met once or twice perhaps and 
 could not recall all the names; others were there whom I 
 knew so well that they made a joke of it: "To meet Mrs. 
 John E. Baird"; and many were there whom I had never 
 met, and concerning all three sets I can only reiterate that 
 I never expect to see in any city, large or small, so many 
 lovable, charming people, and if any of my readers have 
 ever heard me say (as I know I have said) that I didn't 
 wish to know army and navy people, let me take it all 
 back, for here I have met such charming people of both 
 these sets that I am prepared to say that I do wish to 
 know them and consider it a privilege. 
 
 One of the receiving party today was Mrs. Moore, wife 
 of the well-known Admiral, and next week we are to dine 
 at the home of Captain Phisterer — isn't that an awful 
 name? But he couldn't help it, and his wife couldn't 
 [63] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 help loving such a man in spite of his name. We have the 
 honor of knowing the two new generals here, General 
 Carter and General Edwards, and they are charming 
 men. 
 
 As usual I have branched off from my story of today, 
 but there isn't much more that can be written except that 
 I, or we, stood for three hours hearing, pronouncing, and 
 trying to remember names, and if I haven't a "brain 
 storm" in the near future it will be solely because I have 
 so little respect for Mr. Thaw, the seeming originator of 
 them; and should you ask me about now how I feel, I 
 should reply: "All feet tonight, thank you," but very 
 light hearted and thankful to be considered a resident of 
 adorable Honolulu — and isn't it lovely when good, plain, 
 sensible people come to us and thank us for so quickly 
 learning to love their city, and insist that they, and not we, 
 are to be congratulated? This from some could have 
 no weight, but from those who have said it we take it as 
 a compliment and thank them. 
 
 Are you growing anxious to know what is number two 
 on my list of "three"? Tomorrow morning we leave the 
 house at seven thirty to go down to meet the boat from 
 the coast, because we learn that it has, as two of its pass- 
 engers, Mr. and Mrs. Pancoast of Germantown. As I 
 know them quite well; we feel that we are going to meet 
 friends from home, as well as being able to show to a part 
 of Philadelphia some of the wonders of this Island. We 
 will first bring them to the Cathedral, where the boys' 
 and the girls' schools meet at eight forty-five for morning 
 prayer (and a sight worth seeing that is!); then the Bishop 
 will join us in our car, and we will proceed to show the 
 guests the mission work being done in this city under our 
 Bishop's direction. We repair here for lunch at twelve, 
 and at one thirty start off again to show them some of the 
 
 [64] 
 
MAY FOURTEENTH 
 
 scenery and other wonders here. Mrs. Restarick will be 
 with us for lunch and the afternoon. 
 
 And now to the third point, my brethren: On Saturday 
 we leave, at three o'clock, with the Bishop and one of his 
 dear teachers whom I have invited to join us, for the 
 Island of Maui. It is a six-hour boat trip on one of the 
 fine Inter Island line of boats. We are due to arrive at 
 Lahaina at nine o'clock. There a motor is to await us to 
 carry us to Wailuku, where is to be found the best hotel 
 the Island affords — it is a twenty-five-mile run and we 
 hope to make it by ten thirty. Sunday we are to go with 
 the Bishop on all his rounds of services and confirmations, 
 and accept the hospitality of different people whose friends 
 have written them that we were coming. On Monday 
 we motor all day in the mountains, returning to our boat 
 before she sails at midnight, landing us here again at 
 seven Tuesday morning. Now that doesn't read "ex- 
 citing" at all, but it is to me the realization of a dream 
 I have had ever since coming here. At least a week, or 
 perhaps two, should be given to this trip, but I haven't 
 been willing to close up shop for so long a time and depart 
 from our haven of joy and rest without seeing Maui, so 
 when the Bishop suggested this short trip I hailed it with 
 delight and am crazy to go. All plans are made, and I am 
 leaving three lovely teachers to run the house, with the 
 help of my wonderfully competent corps of servants, and 
 these teachers are ready to devour me for thinking of giv- 
 ing them such a lovely treat. 
 
 Little did I suppose when I started this letter and told 
 you what we were going to do, that I shouldn't get it off 
 until I could tell you what we did do. I find that the 
 motto, "Well begun is half done," does not apply to these 
 letters. They are so long in the waiting that I may tell 
 the same tale twice in one letter without knowing it — 
 [65] 5 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 and there is no telling how far I may get now, for very- 
 soon I must dress to go out to dinner, even if no other in- 
 terruption occurs. But I will make one more attempt, so 
 you can never say I did not try to write. My fountain 
 pen isn't working well, and I find this isn't copying well, 
 so I hardly know what to do, though I know it is a poor 
 mechanic that blames his tools, but good or bad has noth- 
 ing to do with it when a fountain pen won't feed. 
 
 I have received ten more callers this afternoon, and am 
 wondering how I shall succeed in returning all the calls 
 that these charming people are so generous in making. 
 It keeps me busy, but I do enjoy them all, and I feel so 
 well acquainted here now, but I am wondering how well 
 I will have remembered all their names when I return. 
 
 We met our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Pancoast, last Fri- 
 day, according to the program I outlined to you, and they 
 were quite overwhelmed at seeing familiar faces on the 
 dock. The good husband confessed to having advised 
 the good wife not to take it too seriously for fear we might 
 be down there only to meet some one else, but we were 
 not, and the sight of them seemed to take us home for a 
 day. I can't begin to tell all we did on that day from 
 eight until five, when their boat sailed, but it was enough, 
 so that they have the Honolulu fever and feel that they 
 would like to come back to live. They have promised to 
 come back for a week on their return in November, and 
 Mrs. Restarick will entertain them, as we will not be here 
 at that time. 
 
 Now I must tell of our trip to Maui, the second largest 
 of these islands. Time forbids my writing in detail, but 
 you will be interested to know that the natives, their 
 homes, the towns, and scenery over there are exactly 
 what I had expected to see here, and though I enjoyed every 
 minute, I come back thankful to be a resident of Honolulu! 
 
 [66] 
 
c c c c c 
 
HONOLULU, MAY FOURTEENTH 
 
 The scenery on Maui is wonderful, in some respects sur- 
 passing that of Oahu (this Island), for there are wonder- 
 ful and truly beautiful cascades and rapids, and one valley 
 is unlike anything we have ever seen, and is a never-to-be- 
 forgotten picture. We hope in the future to go over and 
 spend some time there. 
 
 Mt. Haleakala is 10,000 feet in height, and is more 
 beautiful than we saw it, for we had a rainy visit. 
 
 As an illustration of native life, let me tell you that next 
 door to the place where we had tea there lives, in a three- 
 room house, a family of twelve grown people and fourteen 
 children. Only two of the family were earning, and yet, 
 in spite of everything, they were all happy. They live 
 principally on raw fish and poi, the latter being beaten 
 from the native vegetable, taro. 
 
 I also had the pleasure of meeting one happy-looking, 
 cheerful mother of twenty- three children; another of 
 seventeen, and there are many that have nine and twelve. 
 
 We enjoyed three confirmation services (the Bishop had 
 a fourth), and found very interesting the clergy, the 
 churches, the choirs, and the congregations. All of the 
 attendants were cleanly and neatly dressed, most of the 
 women wearing holokus, our "Mother Hubbard." 
 
 The more I see of the Hawaiians, the more I respect 
 and even admire them. So much for a brief account of a 
 brief visit to Maui. 
 
 We came home at seven Tuesday morning. In the 
 afternoon I received ten callers and did some writing. 
 At seven we left to have dinner out at Fort Ruger with 
 Captain Phisterer. Needless to say, we had a very en- 
 joyable evening. We met there General Davis (retired), 
 who is loved in these islands and well known elsewhere. 
 
 Now from today (Thursday) until Sunday I am to be a 
 trained nurse, for we have brought here from the hospital 
 [67] 
 
THROUGH THE PARADISE OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 Miss Davis, the Bishop's secretary, who underwent an 
 operation nine days ago. She is not helpless, but weak 
 and needing quiet, good rest, food, and air, and freedom 
 from hospital environment. We can give her all she can 
 possibly use of all these right here in our cozy home. She 
 has the first floor bedroom and bath, and will enjoy it be- 
 cause she boards in town, away from the sight and sound 
 of the sea, and does enjoy the life at the beach. 
 
 I remind you that we leave here on June third, and are 
 very loath to do so, but we anticipate a lovely summer of 
 three months in an auto seeing California, and then the 
 trip eastward that will lead us to family and friends, and 
 we are so continually reminded in the mail of the welcome 
 that awaits us there that we shall be very glad to welcome 
 ourselves back in Philadelphia. But — I very much fear that 
 we will talk Honolulu so much that the same ones who wel- 
 come us home will gladly help us to go away again, for I feel 
 sure we will never again be content with an indoor life. 
 
 Our last two weeks here will be crowded, for apart from 
 all our outside engagements, we are giving two luncheons 
 and three dinners in the next week, though with such fine 
 help that won't be hard. 
 
 My lovely, good-natured cook only smiled on me when 
 I told him this morning I wanted 300 jumbles made be- 
 fore twelve o'clock, and he made them, and twenty-five 
 more, and on time, and never a word except to say: "I 
 use planty eggs, sugar, and flour for so many." Did we 
 eat them all in one meal? Dear me, no; I took them to 
 the grounds where the Priory girls were having their 
 annual picnic, and their surprise and enjoyment, in addi- 
 tion to their love for me, made us very happy; they cer- 
 tainly are a dear lot of girls. 
 
 Everything is wonderfully beautiful now (though that is 
 nothing new), for there are many flowering trees here, 
 
 [68 1 
 
HONOLULU, MAY FOURTEENTH 
 
 several of which are in full bloom now: there is the plu- 
 meria, royal poinciana, golden shower, pink shower, 
 jacaranda, and others — such sights one must come here 
 to see. 
 
 The convention of this diocese opens here on May 30th. 
 We are much interested in it, and sorry we shall not be 
 here through the whole session. 
 
 Our love, and Mizpah to all! 
 
 69 
 
A LETTER WRITTEN AT SEA 
 
 THE first thing I must tell you is that we are still, 
 or again, a bride and groom, the only difference 
 being that originally they couldn't catch us, and 
 today they did! 
 
 Well, we have started, but I can't begin to paint for 
 you with anything like distinct outlines the picture of our 
 sailing, for the departure of any large passenger boat 
 from Honolulu has elements of picturesqueness never to 
 be seen perhaps in any other port, and certainly it is a 
 sight never to be forgotten, and if the "Bairds" are not 
 sailing, as they were on this boat, there are sure to be other 
 "celebrities"! 
 
 The custom of putting leis around the necks of depart- 
 ing friends is a truly beautiful one. These wreaths are 
 made, not of paper alone, but of colored paper in combina- 
 tion with real leaves and fresh flowers, and the color scheme 
 is a marvel, especially when the different colors and shades 
 are so many that it is impossible to count them. 
 
 The confetti ribbons of all colors are also beautifully 
 effective as they are thrown by the passengers to the friends 
 left behind: those on the deck catch one end, the other 
 being held by the passenger on board, and the ship stands 
 bound by these multicolored cords until she begins to 
 move, when these thousands of ribbon papers snap apart 
 with a curious sound. 
 
 Another pretty custom is that of the passengers throwing 
 back to their friends the flower leis that had been given 
 them. It is quite a feat to throw them so that they hit 
 the one aimed at, instead of falling on some one else or 
 into the water. 
 
 [7i] 
 
A LETTER WRITTEN AT SEA 
 
 The day on which we started was perfect, though it is 
 hardly necessary to remark this — those who are so for- 
 tunate as to know beautiful Honolulu and its wonderful 
 climate know that all days are " perfect " there. 
 
 As to the numbers that throng to see a ship sail — it 
 would be nearly impossible to count them; but I feel sure 
 you would be interested to know that between forty and 
 fifty came to say "Aloha," and to bring flowers and 
 parting gifts to this "bride and groom," and though this 
 bride can't see others ofF without using a handkerchief, 
 there seemed no opportunity for it when departing on 
 this trip, for, what with hand-shaking, kissing, receiving 
 of gifts, and last, but not least, posing for pictures, there 
 was no time. Some of the pictures were taken on my 
 camera and I am so anxious to see what I looked like that 
 I fear this dear short one week, or rather, six days, will 
 seem very long to wait. 
 
 I cannot tell you much about the throng that saw us off, 
 for you know so few of them, but I can say that, as you 
 may recall, three girls of the Priory met us with the Bishop 
 four months ago, and three were excused from school to 
 see us off. Though I may not have written much about 
 them, I am free to confess that these ioo girls and their 
 future have a great hold upon my heart. I am glad that 
 I have been enabled to be much to them in four short 
 months, and I hope to be more to them for the rest of 
 my life. It is in dear Honolulu that I have learned to 
 love and admire Hawaiian, Chinese, and Japanese, and 
 all the girls in the Priory are mixtures of these and other 
 races and peoples, many of them being half white; and 
 if I told you about Irene Davison, who started on March 
 nth to leave the Islands for the first time to go alone to 
 St. Luke's Hospital, San Francisco, to become a trained 
 nurse, you will be glad to know that another of the girls, 
 
 [72] 
 
A LETTER WRITTEN AT SEA 
 
 Rose Cummings, leaves Honolulu as soon as she graduates 
 this month, to go and be with Irene and learn the same 
 profession. My heart is very full of interests among 
 individuals in our new home, and since to help the one, 
 rather than the masses, has always been my ambition, 
 I feel that I have been sent here to do a real work, and I 
 hope to do much and prove my appreciation of a new lease 
 on life and health. 
 
 I think I started to tell you about some who saw us off, 
 but quickly became engrossed in my favorite subject, 
 the "Priory girls," and branched off — I simply wish to 
 add that the dear Bishop and his wife were surely there. 
 
 Another thing that pleased us greatly was the sight of 
 the visiting clergy and their wives, who were there from 
 the other islands attending Convocation, for though we 
 had seen their work and been much interested in it, and 
 had entertained them at luncheon in our home, we could 
 not fail to be surprised to see them at the ship. 
 
 Our trip promises to be a fine one, and it seemed very 
 nice to be known by name to the officers and stewards. 
 Our beautiful room is all we could wish, and the food seems 
 better even than on the former trip. We know quite 
 a number on board, but I am so delinquent with my 
 writing, and so tired after my strenuous life of the last 
 few weeks, that I feel few will see me much, for I do need 
 a rest and can get it here, if anywhere, and as we leave 
 San Francisco two days after our arrival there, to start 
 on our motoring trip, we wish to be in good condition. 
 Our first trip is to be into Yosemite Valley, and we are 
 taking with us a dear friend who works day and night 
 and has not had a vacation in six years, and has always 
 longed to see the Valley, so that gives us great joy — the 
 being able to share our pleasures. We never ride out 
 alone, but can always find some one who is glad to go, 
 [73] 
 
A LETTER WRITTEN AT SEA 
 
 and in that way our car is a blessing as well as a pleasure. 
 It has interested me to discover that many not so for- 
 tunate as to be able to travel labor under the impression 
 that those who do travel do so for such selfish reasons as to 
 avoid all philanthropic work and seek personal pleasure 
 only. The truth is that any one inclined to do for others 
 has a much broader field when traveling, for they can 
 scatter seeds that may spring up and grow in many parts 
 of the world, while the work at home is apt to run in too 
 much the same channel, and to make and allow recipients 
 to depend on others, to their own weakening. 
 
 **************** 
 
 Today, June 4th, high sea awnings are up. Some are 
 sick on board, but most seem very well and enjoying the 
 sea. This is a very steady boat, and the officers are all 
 very pleasant. I am still lazy, but am getting some writ- 
 ing and reading done. 
 
 I wrote you last that I had taken Miss Davis from the 
 hospital to stay with us three days, so you will be inter- 
 ested to know that she liked Dr. Baird and her home and 
 care so well that Doctor had her stay eleven days, or up 
 to June 1st, and she gained much and was very happy. We 
 arranged for her to spend the next two weeks in two nice 
 homes, and then she hopes to be strong enough to go back 
 to the Bishop's office. She was a very nice patient. 
 
 I managed to return all my calls except those made the 
 last ten days, and it was understood that I could not do 
 that while I was being a doctor, a nurse, and a home- 
 keeper, as well as a packer; but with luncheons and dinners, 
 several of each, I was able to show my appreciation of all 
 hospitality we had enjoyed, so I believe I leave in good re- 
 pute, and I know that many strong friendships await our 
 return. 
 
 [74] 
 
A LETTER WRITTEN AT SEA 
 
 I have, I believe, won the hearts of my fine cook and his 
 wife, so that they have promised sure to return to us in 
 January. With them at the engine and me at the helm 
 it is not hard to keep house, but a joy; in fact, we have had 
 so much real pleasure out of our home that I fear hotel life 
 again will be nearly unbearable. 
 
 175 1 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 WE HAVE arrived and are well. I just wish to 
 add a few lines and get this off. Some forty 
 pieces of mail awaited us here; I had written 
 thirty-one letters besides this one in my six days on the 
 ship, and now I am in debt again! But it is the kind of 
 debt that doesn't get one into jail, and is, I find, often 
 excused by lenient family and friends. 
 
 One friend met us on our arrival. As the boat was 
 coming in I was where I could not be seen from the wharf, 
 but this perfectly good American said she knew there was 
 only one American flag in the hands of any passenger, and 
 she knew that one would be "Elizabeth" — and it was. 
 
 Our room here is a bower of flowers: American Beauty 
 roses, azaleas, sweet peas — my! but I'm a fortunate girl. 
 However, all the attention I receive only helps make me 
 more careful to be thoughtful of others, so don't think I 
 am being spoiled. Just for fun I am going to quote from 
 one letter of greeting that came from Honolulu on our 
 arrival here: "I hope there are those in San Francisco 
 to welcome your coming somewhere nearly as much as 
 your going will be mourned here" — now isn't that "going 
 some" for only four months' acquaintance and friendship? 
 
 It is cold here, while you are baking; and the sight of 
 furs and ulsters makes us long for dear Honolulu, where 
 one never shivers and never bakes. 
 
 The Yosemite Valley roads are not yet open to private 
 cars, so we do not leave here until Saturday, the thirteenth. 
 We are anticipating a wonderful trip, and will be glad to 
 leave this cold. 
 [77] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 My "few lines" seem to be increasing to a second letter; 
 but you know how I enjoy telling you everything, both 
 foolish and sensible, and that reminds me that, for the 
 benefit of those who have been writing thusly: "You look 
 immense !" "you look so thin!" "you certainly aren't 
 any thinner" — I wish to put you all right by saying that 
 I have not gained a pound, but am, I believe, just ten 
 pounds lighter than when I left home, so see? But just 
 remember that in photos much depends upon the focus 
 and upon the white clothes worn. 
 
 Our anniversary day will be passed without a "real 
 party," for we will be at Stockton, and perhaps on the 
 road a part of the day. But a friend is making this trip 
 with us, and we will talk of the subject and eat to its 
 honor. As to my usual gift from my Lover, this year it is 
 our new home, and I feel that is a rather special gift 
 for a "three-year-old." We will enjoy it together, and 
 "anniversary" means more in that word "together" 
 than it could be made to mean by any individual gifts 
 and thoughts. 
 
 Today we have had Irene Davison, the Honolulu girl 
 who came here to study nursing, out riding, and tomorrow 
 she is coming here to see us and our pictures. 
 
 It won't be long now until we are in your midst, for the 
 summer will fly so fast, and so will the fall. 
 
 While I am writing now John is out at a Brotherhood 
 meeting and luncheon. 
 
 Tata, and Mizpah! 
 
 ANNIVERSARY DAY AND SUNDAY 
 We left San Francisco at nine twenty yesterday, and 
 it was warmer when we left than we had ever known that 
 city to be — but that doesn't mean torrid at all! 
 
 [78] 
 
ANNIVERSARY DAY AND SUNDAY 
 
 The regular ferries do not carry autos or teams any 
 more except after nine in the evening, so we went across 
 the Bay on a freight boat, and were the better part of an 
 hour getting across; that is, from the time we got on the 
 boat until we get off — the actual crossing took just some- 
 what more than a half-hour. To those who are accus- 
 tomed to crossing the Delaware in three minutes, the 
 crossing of the Bay here always seems like a boat trip, for 
 the fastest time that a ferry makes is eighteen minutes, 
 but at night it is worth while, for San Francisco, with its 
 numerous hills and myriads of lights, makes a beautiful 
 picture. 
 
 We stopped to see the California Nursery yesterday. 
 We had a letter to the wife of the Superintendent. They 
 took us among the magnolias that are — and have been for 
 a year — boxed ready to send over to the fair grounds. 
 They had already shipped the palms, each weighing 50,000 
 pounds (no, I am not mistaken!). They were planted in 
 boxes and stood upright on freight cars. We were given 
 photographs of them, and will show you how they looked. 
 Of course, we saw many plants, but as this is quite an off 
 season, we could not see anything at its best. Mr. and 
 Mrs. Eberle were very kind, and we enjoyed it all, and 
 have an invitation to spend a whole day there some time. 
 This nursery is at Niles, and there we found a very good 
 lunch in a very nice small hotel before starting for Stock- 
 ton. The day was hot, and we had one puncture. We 
 are not over-enthusiastic about the car or the man, though 
 he understands his car, so we feel safe. We expect to do 
 a lot of map reading and try not to miss anything. 
 
 We have come through a part of the state where Olga 
 had spent girlhood summers; though she had not seen it 
 for twenty-three years, she remembered many points of 
 interest and told some reminiscences, one of which was 
 [79] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 about their enjoyment of swimming until a water-snake 
 appeared — then no more of that sport. Another was 
 when she and a group of girls helped themselves to cherries 
 off of a tree, she eating as she picked, and the others all 
 saving theirs in their hats, until a wagon stopped outside 
 the fence of this detached farm, and the farmer ordered 
 every hat emptied into his cart, and threatened to take 
 them before a constable, but only looked lovingly on this 
 dear innocent child who apparently hadn't stolen any 
 cherries, while she was glorying in the fact that she had 
 hers where she couldn't give them up! 
 
 Our rooms in this hotel — The Stockton — are very nice. 
 The food is quite good, and here we stay until tomorrow 
 morning. We went to "our" church at eleven and en- 
 joyed a good sermon. The distance to the church was 
 three blocks, so we decided to walk it. It proved so hot 
 that we stood in danger of melting. The heat seemed to 
 rise from the pavement and hit us in the face. Once 
 back again, we remained in until three and then went to 
 ride to get cooled off. We started to Lodi, fifteen miles 
 away, and had two punctures in an amazingly short space 
 of time, wasted an hour, and returned to the hotel quite 
 discouraged, for we knew the worst was yet to come. We 
 had a "heart to heart talk" with our man, and gave him 
 cash for new and thorough equipment, and were promised 
 "no more trouble." 
 
 MONDAY 
 Left Stockton at seven fifty-five, planning to reach our 
 destination, the Park, late in the afternoon, but alas! we 
 had not figured on mountain driving, fording streams 
 (eleven, large and small), meeting teams and cars on roads 
 built for one car only, hot engine, etc., etc. — so at two 
 o'clock we stopped at Coulterville hotel for lunch, and 
 
 [80] 
 
THE MAIL BAG MONDAY 
 
 there we heard the joyful ( ?) news that the Park road would 
 not open to cars until Wednesday, but that if we wished 
 to run farther and so be nearer our goal we could do so 
 by staying all night at McCauley's — "a large house, good 
 enough for anybody." That seemed quite cheerful, for 
 though where we were was "plenty large," it was not 
 "good enough for anybody, " and didn't appeal to these 
 "bodies" at all, so we decided at once in favor of "Mc- 
 Cauley's." When we reached there at five o'clock our 
 hearts went down to the depths, for what did we see but a 
 rude hut, with two untidy-looking women lounging on 
 the porch and dogs barking in the yard. But as this is a 
 part of one's experiences in motoring, we begged for ac- 
 commodations for the night — there was nowhere else to 
 go. The dear lady didn't enthuse a bit, but said no, she 
 didn't take boarders except to accommodate folks some- 
 times, and as she had just rented her best room, she could 
 only fix us up something if we would be content with 
 what she could arrange. Of course we said: "Oh, yes, 
 anything will do." One couch in the parlor became a 
 bed, and we got one bedroom — the man slept in the car — 
 and let me tell you that dirt was more plentiful in that 
 house than anything else. I truly believe I never saw 
 so much filth in so small space in my life. But the beds 
 were made up for us specially and seemed quite clean, so 
 we slept. The food was quite fair, and she washed the 
 table-cloth and napkins after we got there. At seven 
 fifteen she called us in to dinner, on a wet but ironed 
 table-cloth. The napkins made one think of wash-rags 
 as they were put to the lips, but they were clean, and that 
 was much to be thankful for. There were flies and 
 mosquitos enough to populate a town, which we were 
 told would all go to bed at nine, and to our great surprise 
 they did! 
 [81] 6 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 So much for the lady who had thought that all of Cali- 
 fornia was like the southern part — she has surely "had her 
 eyes opened." When touring, it is quite a dangerous 
 condition to have one's mind trained to require cleanliness 
 and good food. 
 
 Though we had been, and were being, told that the 
 Park roads would not be opened to cars until Wednesday, 
 I insisted upon going from the dear McCauley palace 
 straight to the gates, and felt sure we could persuade the 
 Major to open them to us after telling him where we had 
 spent one night, and would have to spend another if he 
 didn't let us through, so at nine thirty we were off, and 
 after riding until noon over thirty per cent, grades on a 
 single road with an occasional team to pass, we reached the 
 gate, and there we had our aspiration to be the first car 
 through crushed when we were told that nineteen had been 
 admitted that morning because some of them had been 
 there days without food or beds. At twelve forty, after 
 testing the car-brakes, etc., we drove into the famous 
 Yosemite Valley. 
 
 Upon entering we were handed so many pamphlets of 
 instructions and rules and regulations that must be en- 
 forced that we weren't sure we would not be jailed be- 
 fore night. When told we would be restricted in speed 
 to an average of six miles an hour, we made up our minds 
 to an unpleasant "crawl"; but when we saw the road and 
 its grade, we became quite reconciled, and there was so 
 much to see that we lowered the top and sat content to 
 take in at leisure the sight of the wonders that surrounded 
 us on every side, and only quote here what we have said 
 to each other, so that you will not expect me — poor me — 
 ever to describe what we see here: "One could never 
 say there is no God while gazing at all this," and, "As 
 for words, they fail me, I can only think." 
 
 [82] 
 
THE MAIL BAG WEDNESDAY 
 
 We passed Bridal Veil and Cascade Falls, and many- 
 peaks of importance that we were unable to name, but 
 quite able to see and to admire. We soon decided that 
 we would not stop at any of the many camps, but try to 
 get into the Sentinel Hotel — "try," because we had soon 
 learned that many excursions and thousands of people had 
 entered on the trains and nearly all available space was 
 taken. With our usual good fortune we were just in ad- 
 vance of another train-load, and secured very comfort- 
 able rooms, not in the main building, but in one of the 
 cottages just across the road. As they extended their 
 dining-room by using a lanai (they all laugh because I 
 won't say "porch"), I put in a plea that we might eat out 
 there, and so we do, continually hearing, as we dine, the 
 rush of the waters of the Merced River, and being able to 
 gaze upon Yosemite Falls. It is a wonderful setting — 
 quite too fine to be congruous with the ordering and eat- 
 ing of just plain meat and potatoes, canned vegetables, and 
 pie! But even these are of good quality, and are truly 
 relished after such walks and rides. Upon our arrival we 
 had tea served on the lanai outside of our rooms, because 
 we had had no luncheon except jumbles, figs, and nuts, 
 which the blessed lunch kit had guarded for us. That 
 evening we merely took a stroll in the direction of the 
 falls and retired early in good beds, in clean rooms, and 
 sent up praises and thanksgivings that we had not waited 
 for "Wednesday"! 
 
 WEDNESDAY 
 We all had a good night, and didn't hurry getting started 
 out, but at nine thirty went off to walk to Mirror Lake. 
 It is scheduled as five miles there and return, and we all 
 felt quite ambitious to walk it, but we hadn't included in 
 our calculations the heat and dust and lazy muscles, so 
 [83] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 Olga was the only one of us who actually carried out the 
 original contract, and she returned with swollen hands 
 and feet and joined us in declaring the distance must be 
 more than "five miles." Following this strenuous -at- 
 tempt, after a rest and lunch, we all indulged ourselves 
 in doing as we pleased all afternoon. As for me, I wrote 
 until I saw double! 
 
 Each evening we walk, so this evening we went through 
 the art studios, shops, etc., and then retired early, having 
 spent a very pleasant day. 
 
 THURSDAY 
 
 I proudly write the day of the week, thus proving to 
 myself that I know it, for it is a difficult thing to keep 
 track of in a life like this. 
 
 Lest you may be wondering how I think this Valley 
 compares with Yellowstone Park or Grand Canyon, let 
 me say right here that each one is so distinctively different 
 that there is no way of making any possible comparison. 
 This is decidedly different in size, colorings, and scenic 
 effects, but it is no less interesting and beautiful. One 
 should not suppose for one minute that, having seen one, 
 he had seen all, but should certainly see all three to be 
 able to enjoy them by contrast. 
 
 Today we have been quite active, for we were called at 
 five forty-five, were over at breakfast at six thirty, and 
 were ready at seven to start off in the mountain wagon 
 to see Mirror Lake by sunrise. It is so named because of 
 the wonderfully clear reflections in it of Mt. Watkins, of 
 the trees surrounding it — in fact, of everything in the 
 vicinity. We drove on from there to Happy Isles, where 
 we saw the Merced River in a boiling condition, a sight 
 never to be forgotten. Even to those of us who had seen 
 
 [84] 
 
THE MAL BAG THURSDAY 
 
 Niagara this seemed a new and wonderful sight. These 
 islands are within walking distance of the hotel, and many- 
 go there picnicking, enjoying their meals in the woods and 
 beside this awful rush of waters. We left the stage here 
 and started on the trail that leads to Glacier Point. Our 
 objective was Vernal Falls, which was said to be only 
 three-quarters of a mile distant. By the time we had 
 climbed half way we felt we had done a good mile, but on 
 we went, taking frequent rests by the wayside, until 
 presently we felt the cooling air from the falls and knew 
 we were near. Then we heard the distant sound of them, 
 and then, Oh, then, we saw them! And such a sight! It 
 is only one more of tr^e many that must be seen to be 
 appreciated and understood, for it is surely beyond de- 
 scription. Our walk back was down hill, and the "three- 
 quarters of a mile" seemed a more truthful and accurate 
 estimate. 
 
 We then went down to the foot of Yosemite Falls, from 
 where we could see them so much more vividly than from 
 the hotel. It is unusually beautiful just now — indeed, 
 that is true of all the falls here now, for they had a few 
 very hot days and the water overflowed the river. 
 
 We returned to the hotel at eleven to rest until twelve 
 o'clock lunch, which we ate as though we hadn't seen 
 food for days. In the afternoon I wrote while the rest 
 did as they pleased, and everybody was perfectly happy. 
 
 Between three and four I saw the stage arrive from 
 Big Trees, but paid no attention to its passengers. In a 
 half-hour, however, I discovered charming, darling "Mrs. 
 Shearman," whom I had met first in Honolulu and again 
 on the ship coming up, so she and her friend have become 
 members of our party for the rest of our stay here. 
 
 In the evening we all visited several studios, seeing 
 what I consider real art, for if there is anything that makes 
 [8 S ] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 fine, inspiring pictures, it is the trees, falls, and mountains 
 of Yosemite. 
 
 The air is "lovely," and it was not very hot today. It is 
 surprising the number of people there are here. Every 
 possible available space is used — I hear a couple now com- 
 plaining that the two had tried to sleep last night on a 
 single bed and had had no sleep, and insisting upon a 
 mattress on the floor if no other room can be found. The 
 stages leave just as full as they come or the Valley wouldn't 
 hold the people. It is remarkable how many come in by 
 auto, a large number of them bringing their own camp- 
 ing outfit. Some of them are quite comfortably fixed, 
 but we prefer the house and its conveniences. When 
 taking these stage rides (no private car can be used in the 
 Valley), one surely sees human nature and has a chance to 
 study character! It is very interesting, but it inclines 
 one to choose his own company! 
 
 FRIDAY 
 
 Today, except for a nice walk early in the morning, 
 when we went off to the Indian Village to take pictures 
 and found every soul but one away picking berries (and 
 that dear soul — a man — doing the family washing), we 
 have done just as we pleased — a game, a walk for Olga, 
 and yours truly swinging the pen. Rain has fallen in 
 showers, so we are glad we had no definite plans and feel 
 sorry for those who are out on the trails. 
 
 I have had fairly good luck with my pictures, but am 
 mailing Mr. Pilsbury's photo cards instead — no time for 
 reprints of mine, and he has many that I can't get — because 
 I am too old to ride a donkey. Isn't it awful for such a 
 young child to have to make such an acknowledgment? 
 
 Mizpah, till next time! 
 
 [86] 
 
LOS ALTOS, CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ALTOS 
 
 July 4 
 
 Though I know I should write the "ancient history" 
 of the past two weeks, I am going to start out with the 
 things of the present, and tell you of our day in the 
 country today. We picked up Dr. Spencer and her friend 
 this morning and left at seven fifty, in the car, for a thirty- 
 five mile run into the finest part of this state that we have 
 seen yet. You may know how fine I think it when I tell 
 you I am willing to acknowledge that it compares favor- 
 ably with Honolulu as to scenery. We came straight to 
 Doctor's bungalow and twenty-acre farm that she has 
 provided for her "old age." It is located on top of a hill, 
 which is itself nearly surrounded with hills and yet has a 
 view of the Bay. The first thing we did after opening 
 the house was to get out into the orchard, and there we 
 picked apricots and inspected peach trees and other fruit 
 trees, and then, while Doctor strayed off on other in- 
 spections, we prepared apricots for preserves and pared 
 apples for "real apple sauce." After lunch we got some 
 beautiful plums ready for the preserving kettle, and Doc- 
 tor thinks us very industrious guests, but we are simply 
 having the time of our lives. She has just brought in 
 elderberries and is surely preparing for "some" work, but 
 it is so beautifully cool and pleasant here that work be- 
 comes fun. Black oaks shade the whole yard and house. 
 She had said before we came that I could spend the day 
 in the hammock, but I say never! in this beautiful place. 
 
 We go back to the hotel tonight to attend to some pack- 
 ing, etc., and return here tomorrow to take the two dear 
 ladies home. They, being both physicians, have no time 
 but week-ends — and not always that — to enjoy this spot, 
 but they are anticipating a happy future here. 
 
 I 87] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 Back in San Francisco! Couldn't get my mind on writ- 
 ing down there today — was having too good a time. We 
 were all so busy with our woman's work that my poor hus- 
 band looked lonely, so we all had a laughable, enjoyable 
 game, and then we played until time to start back. Made 
 the run in two hours, reaching here at seven thirty. The 
 weather was perfect, and many picnic parties took ad- 
 vantage of it, and how thankful we are we didn't even have 
 a puncture! We passed a number of cars stalled on the 
 road, some of which looked as though they might stay 
 there indefinitely. 
 
 I said my mind was not on writing this afternoon: did 
 you therefore infer that it is this evening? You are quite 
 mistaken if you did — the only thing in my mind now is a 
 desire to sleep. After a day spent out-of-doors I am never 
 normal mentally at night. This is one of the times, how- 
 ever, when I must not look at the bed, but instead at this 
 book, for I shall have no time for writing tomorrow, and 
 we leave Monday morning early for a three weeks' auto 
 trip north, in this state, and on up to Grant's Pass, Oregon, 
 returning via Red Bluff, Sacramento, and Lake Tahoe, and 
 we are anticipating a lovely trip through a lovely country. 
 
 And now back to Yosemite Valley, to try to give you 
 an idea of some of the wonders we saw in our second week 
 there ! 
 
 I am not certain, but am under the impression that I 
 closed the last letter on June 19, so I will start with — 
 
 June 20 
 Olga left at seven o'clock to join a party going on mule 
 back to Glacier Point, going up by the long trail and re- 
 turning by the short one. When I tell you that the latter 
 is less than half the length of the former, you will not be 
 surprised to know that she was glad to walk half of the 
 
SUNDAY IN YOSEMITE 
 
 way down, rather than get dizzy on her mule and roll all 
 the way down! She surely is the right kind to take such 
 trips (while this old lady stays on the level and off of 
 mules), for she came home at six o'clock just as fresh as 
 when she went off. We contented ourselves with two 
 short walks, then the " scribe " got busy for a few hours, and 
 at one thirty started off on a coaching trip to new Inspira- 
 tion Point, which is 4930 feet above sea level, showing that 
 in two hours we had climbed 1000 feet. The road was 
 narrow, but not very rocky nor dangerous, and we nearly 
 coasted down and enjoyed every minute of the trip. Had 
 a lovely view of El Capitan and the lone pine that grows 
 on the side near the top. The actual rainbow on Bridal 
 Veil Falls was one sight never to be forgotten; it lasted 
 about a half-hour. The meadow, and Merced River be- 
 low us, were beautiful. The peaks known as "The Three 
 Graces," "Sentinel Rock," and above it "The Dome" 
 and "The Three Brothers," are very interesting and 
 distinctive, no two being alike. 
 
 In the evening, after a short walk, we all decided that — 
 "To bed, to bed, Thou sleepy head" was a quotation aptly 
 applied to ourselves, so we obeyed its injunction and were 
 soon in dreamland. 
 
 SUNDAY IN YOSEMITE 
 Until we entered the dear little chapel at eleven there 
 was nothing to remind one that this day was different in 
 any respect from any other day, but every seat was filled 
 and there had been advertised only a service of "quiet 
 hour," in other words, "Quaker Meeting"; Mr. Allen, a 
 minister of the "Friends" was the preacher. It was a 
 pleasant surprise that they did not have any "wait until 
 the Spirit moves" meeting, but were moved to conduct a 
 [89] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 pleasing service, opened with a prayer, read two lessons, 
 sang several hymns and a solo. The address was by Mr. 
 Allen on the subject of Peace. I think every one felt 
 better for having attended that service, which was the 
 only one in the Valley. The interior, exterior, seats, and 
 all furnishings of this unique little chapel were made from 
 wood cut in the Valley. A white sheet covered the altar, 
 and the collection box was a piece from the limb of a tree 
 with a square place dug out of the center, that forming a 
 basket or box, and this was nailed on to an ax-handle. 
 The real simplicity made one appreciate that effort and not 
 money had made it possible for us to have that service. 
 
 I spent the afternoon back of my pen. I must tell you 
 a thrilling story I have heard. It is a really true one, and 
 not one to amuse you either: Some time ago, during an 
 electric storm in the mountains here, seven animals, horses 
 and mules, were instantly killed, and though their riders 
 were all on their backs at the time, not one of them even 
 received a shock. Now I hear some one asking, How 
 could that be? I remind you, please, that the animals 
 were all shod, and that fact and Providential interference 
 are the only known ways of accounting for such a marvel. 
 
 Perhaps you are laboring under the impression that 
 " tourists " are lazy — retire early and rise late. Let me 
 enlighten you by telling you that today again did we rise 
 at five forty and have breakfast at six twenty; now when 
 have you done so well? Yes, I left by stage at seven for 
 another view and attempt at some pictures of Mirror 
 Lake, and this time I was in time to see the sun rise, and 
 it was wonderful! I took with me Miss Anderson, of 
 Philadelphia, and enjoyed being the first one to show her 
 the wonders there and at Happy Isles, and she did ap- 
 preciate everything to the full. 
 
 [90] 
 
SUNDAY IN YOSEMITE 
 
 Not wishing to take the Vernal Falls trip a second time, 
 I coaxed a driver to bring me back without waiting for 
 the walkers, so I returned at nine thirty, and though I was 
 not expected before the regular trip at eleven, I found 
 my husband waiting for me on the porch, and he only said 
 he thought I might get back sooner. Isn't it nice to be 
 waited for? 
 
 After getting some mail off we visited the Jorgenson 
 studio, and came back in time for a rest before having an 
 early lunch, for today we are to leave at twelve thirty for 
 Glacier Point — and Oh, my! could you have seen me hop 
 out into the road and climb the hub, spokes, and tire of 
 that front wheel and slip into the seat by the driver, you 
 would not think me so ancient, or, what is worse, so cor- 
 pulent. It did not take Olga long to be seated beside 
 me, for we had agreed that we must have that seat in 
 order to be able to see all and ask all the questions we 
 wished to ask — and what we said had to go, even though 
 others had had the same plans. We quietly said to our- 
 selves, "If they want to get ahead of the Baird party they 
 must keep moving !" 
 
 Had we gone up the side of the mountain, our trip would 
 have been four miles, but by the stage route it is twenty- 
 six miles, over rough, narrow, and steep-grade roads. In 
 that many miles and in seven and a half hours we climbed 
 nearly 4000 feet. We had four horses to do the pulling, 
 and the dust was the worst I have ever seen. I held one of 
 my husband's handkerchiefs over my nose and mouth for 
 the entire trip. We forded some small streams, and we 
 went "bumpity bump!" all the time, but consider it one 
 of the finest trips we have ever taken. The wild flowers, 
 scenery, forest, snow-capped mountain (in fact, we rode 
 right beside snow, and one week before the road had been 
 impassable because of snow), lights and shadows, and 
 
 [91] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 falls — all kept our interest constantly absorbed. We 
 were cold and hungry when we arrived at our destina- 
 tion, nor, should I forget to say, tired as well: we were 
 very tired, but nevertheless we would advise any one to 
 take the same trip if unable to ride up on mule back. 
 
 Wild lilacs, forget-me-nots, azaleas, dogwood, and other 
 flowers added greatly to the color effect. There were also 
 wild-cherry trees and many "snow plants," which, in 
 general form, remind one of our hyacinth, but they are 
 deep scarlet in color. 
 
 There was much fun over "Widow's Tears Falls," just 
 a small quantity of water falling slowly, and so named be- 
 cause they dry up in six weeks! 
 
 We saw three wild deer. It seems sad to see so many 
 crooked and fallen young trees; this is due entirely to the 
 heavy snows. 
 
 Now, are we not good travelers to endure all this hard 
 trip and not feel the effect of the unusual elevation — 7214 
 feet? We think we are, and I think I was a tin soldier 
 to sleep, as I did, uncomplainingly on a bed with only a 
 thin pad thrown over its spiral springs. Though scraping 
 my shin bones on the spring every time I moved, I lay 
 there feeling sorry for others, since we each at least had a 
 bed, and I supposed it was the best that dear little hotel 
 could furnish, and any way it was worth paying some 
 penalty — the privilege of being up there at all. When I 
 spoke of conditions to the others of our party in the morn- 
 ing, I was surprised that they could not understand what 
 I was talking about, as they had found their little beds 
 entirely comfortable. Later it was discovered that they 
 had each had a mattress on their springs, but that my 
 mattress had been taken off to make a bed on the floor for 
 some people who had come up to that little doll house 
 without making reservations. Then I felt like a martyr, 
 
 [92] 
 
SUNDAY IN YOSEMITE 
 
 or a real Christian, at having shared my bed with a 
 stranger! 
 
 You must be tired reading through so many pages of 
 trash hunting for some sense and some points of interest, 
 but you know it is my style to tell it all. 
 
 We rose at four forty-five (yes, it's true!) to see the sun 
 rise and cast its glow upon these snow-capped mountains, 
 but, alas! it didn't "cast," but just rose, so we and many 
 were disappointed. Olga was the only one of us who did 
 not slip back to bed for another "ten winks"; she had 
 breakfast at six and walked off to Sentinel Dome, going 
 another thousand feet higher — too much walking for us! 
 I got out and took some pictures, and we walked out to, 
 but not onto, the overhanging rock. At noon we lunched 
 and went immediately after, in stages, to Wawona, an- 
 other twenty-six miles, with the same driver and horses — 
 just as dusty but an hour less time, as we were going down 
 and not up. We arrived at five fifty, well ready to wash, 
 dress, dine, and retire. This is the first real-looking 
 "hotel" since we left the city, and it seemed good to see 
 it. The approach to it is over a covered bridge that 
 seemed quite quaint and "old fashioned." We found the 
 South Fork of the Merced River beautiful. I think I 
 haven't told you that we sent our car out the way we 
 came in and around to Wawona to meet us — cars are not 
 permitted on the stage roads. We did not see much here 
 because it meant more long walks to do so. There is 
 nothing very unusual to see, and after the Valley one 
 needs some great attraction to move him to special effort. 
 
 Have I told you that "Yosemite" means Great Grizzly? 
 That is said to have been the name of the Indian chief 
 who was here when the Valley was discovered. There are 
 none of the original tribes in the Valley now, and few of any 
 tribe. 
 [93] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 The next morning we started off in the stages at nine 
 fifteen for an all-day trip to the Mariposa Big Trees. We 
 ascended 3000 feet in nine miles, so I need not tell you 
 that those four horses walked every step of the way there. 
 They took us to see one of the finest bits of scenery in the 
 world, but Oh, my! how a lover of autos hates to have to 
 pity horses! This grove has 600 sequoias in it, and very 
 ancient ones they are — of course, only the old ones are 
 counted in the 600. The "Grizzly Giant" is the only one 
 inclosed in wire fencing — this because of crazy souvenir 
 hunters. It is 224 feet high, and is over six thousand 
 years old — the oldest living thing in the world. It is esti- 
 mated to contain a million feet of timber. The tree called 
 "Columbia" stands 327 feet high. The one known as 
 "The Fallen Monarch" is lying on one side, and is wide 
 enough to have had a stage and eight horses driven onto it 
 and stand there with comfort. We walked on it its whole 
 length. The "telescope" tree is a marvel: it has been 
 burned at the base (as many of these large trees have) and 
 on up through the center without changing the shape of 
 it, and as you stand on the ground under it and look up 
 through it you can see the sky out of the top of it — yet it 
 is still alive. All stages drive right through "California" 
 or "Wawona" trees; it seems a wonderful thing to be 
 able to do. We have seen the same thing done in the 
 state of Washington. 
 
 This grove was discovered in 1857 by Galen Clark, and 
 though many of the trees have been partially or wholly 
 destroyed, none of it has been done since 1 857. It is very sur- 
 prising to see a tree with nearly the whole trunk destroyed 
 and yet the upper part thriving and bearing new branches. 
 The first tree seen by Mr. Clark is marked by what the 
 driver calls a "monument": a rude heap or mound of 
 stones said to have been placed there by Mr. Clark. 
 
 [94] 
 
SUNDAY IN YOSEMITE 
 
 "Mariposa" means "butterfly," I believe. 
 
 The knots or burl of the sequoias are used to make 
 souvenirs, and these can be purchased at the old Cabin. 
 
 All the trees of the 600 are named after cities, states, 
 or prominent people. When we discovered "Hawaiian 
 Islands," we gave three cheers, but when we spied "Hono- 
 lulu," there was an awful roar from the Baird party! 
 Of course the others think that we are Hawaiians born, 
 but we did cheer for "Philadelphia" too. 
 
 We saw growing wild roses, iris, Indian plant, azalea, and 
 the beautiful manzanita, a plant that has a red bud, then, 
 after the flower, an ornamental berry; it is indeed beautiful. 
 Many of the trees have a beautiful light-green moss growing 
 over them, and it adds much beauty to the tree with its dark- 
 colored wood. " Faithful Couple " is a curious tree. These 
 trees grow as one for the first hundred feet, and then be- 
 come two separate trunks, each bearing its own branches. 
 
 On the following day we rose at six o'clock and left at 
 eight in our car for a 106-mile run to Merced on our way 
 back to San Francisco. We stopped on the way to see 
 Sugar Pine Mill, and were greatly interested to see it in 
 operation. They employ 700 men, and flume the lumber 
 sixty-five miles to Madera. The Superintendent con- 
 siders the Chinese the most dependable and efficient labor 
 he hires. In six months of each year they produce 
 40,000,000 feet of lumber, all of sugar pine. It is fasci- 
 nating to see the machinery handle those massive trees 
 more easily than I could lift a suit-case. 
 
 On the mountain road coming down out of the Sierras 
 we had to make room for many teams, many of them hav- 
 ing as many as ten mules and two horses pulling two or 
 three wagons together: that method means one driver 
 instead of two or more, but the blessed animals are still 
 afraid of autos and we pitied them. 
 
 [95 1 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 We stopped for lunch at a town called "Coarse Gold/' 
 but we saw only "coarse food/' and had to leave without 
 any kind of gold at all. It was a hard, hot trip, but 
 through beautiful scenery. We stopped for the night at 
 Merced and were comfortable. 
 
 As we had but a short run of seventy-one miles the next 
 morning, we did not hurry our starting, but left at ten. 
 We had a state road, and on the level, so found it much 
 easier riding. Our way this day lay through orchard and 
 vineyard districts, and we saw apricots growing in wonder- 
 ful plenty. In the evening we enjoyed an hour on the 
 roof-garden of the Stockton Hotel. 
 
 We left Stockton the next morning at nine o'clock for 
 San Francisco, coming over the Dublin Grade route, and 
 through plenty of heat, and arrived here at two o'clock, 
 where, as usual, we find quantities of mail — including an 
 anniversary gift. 
 
 June 28, Sunday, I took as a real day of rest, and did 
 nothing except to write some after dinner. John went to 
 the Cathedral for a five o'clock service and met several 
 whom he knew. 
 
 Monday Mr. Shelby, a Brotherhood man, called and 
 took up most of the morning. At one thirty we started 
 ofF to go out to the Exposition grounds, to be present at 
 the ground breaking for the Pennsylvania (no, not "Hono- 
 lulu"!) building. And let me tell you things look like 
 business out there, and the grounds will be beautiful. 
 We cannot say we felt at home, notwithstanding our er- 
 rand, for we didn't see a familiar face except one, who is 
 connected with our Academy of Fine Arts and is in charge 
 of the Arts Building at the Exposition. The speeches at 
 this ceremony were all brief and very good. The two 
 men sent out by Governor Tener are the same, I believe, 
 who have had the commission for the other fairs. They 
 
 [96] 
 
SUNDAY IN YOSEMITE 
 
 each made pleasing addresses — especially pleasing when 
 Mr. King announced that the "bell" is coming. One of 
 the speakers said he had always understood that to make 
 a good speech you must get up, speak up, and shut up, 
 but that it is mighty hard to do the latter when speaking 
 of Pennsylvania and California. 
 
 Another California man said that though he was ex- 
 pected to speak about California, he was going to speak 
 about Pennsylvania, for without that state there would be 
 no California, for Pennsylvania was, and is, the mother of 
 the flag that hangs over us — the mother of liberty, of the 
 bell, of expositions, and of baseball. The last name, of 
 course, brought forth a roar of applause. 
 
 There was a direct wire from Pennsylvania, and while 
 the addresses were being made a message of greeting was 
 received and read from Governor Tener. 
 
 A lady soloist sang very sweetly. She was the picture 
 of my friend A. J. A., so we doubly enjoyed her. Our 
 building is to hold no exhibits except the bell, but is to be 
 for the pleasure and reception of any that may wish to 
 enter its doors — and just now I remember that no doubt 
 you have read all this in the papers, while as I wrote I 
 thought I was telling you home news from a foreign shore! 
 
 And now I must give you the latest news, and that right 
 quick, for I too must learn that having spoken up, I must 
 shut up: We have ordered our car, and it is to be delivered 
 in Philadelphia on September 15: a Peerless limousine, a 
 seven-passenger, six-cylinder, forty-eight horse-power car, 
 and a beauty. We are very happy to have taken another 
 step toward home and dear Honolulu. 
 
 97) 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 LAKEPORT, LAKE CO. 
 
 I was not able to get this off before leaving San Francisco 
 on Monday morning. When one is packing for a three 
 weeks' motor trip it takes time and thought. I haven't 
 the ambition and enduring qualities that I have down 
 "home," and that makes a difference with my writing. 
 
 I think I haven't told you anything about the car we 
 are using. It is a Stearns, and not an easy rider, but a 
 sixty-horse power, a chain drive, and a wonder for moun- 
 tain work. The man is a wonderful driver. Everybody 
 who sees him drive remarks about his ability, and we are 
 just as safe with him as when in a hotel. He is always 
 neat and clean, and is a gentleman. He is an Eastern 
 man, and has driven nearly every good car that is made. 
 This is his own car. His home now is in Pasadena. We 
 secured him through a friend. 
 
 We are surely driving through beautiful country on this 
 trip, but I will tell you about that in the next. I am writ- 
 ing now beside an open window at seven forty p. M., gaz- 
 ing out at mountains and this beautiful and very large 
 Clear Lake. My! I wish you were all here to see for your- 
 selves. 
 
 Our Aloha now to all, with a "Mizpah!" 
 
 THROUGH THE "REDWOODS" 
 I am merely beginning this here, for we leave at eight 
 in the morning. You may or may not believe that 
 "well begun is half done." I don't always think it is 
 half done, but I realize it is a means toward that end. 
 
 And now I should like to tell you what we have seen 
 the past week, but I can't — it is far beyond my ability 
 to describe, but I can at least tell you where we have been. 
 
 [98] 
 
THROUGH THE "REDWOODS" 
 
 First let me say that since June 13 th we have had only 
 four punctures, and those occurred the first two days near 
 Stockton. That may not mean so much to you as to us, 
 but the roads have been so rough that even though we 
 started from Stockton with four new tires, and have not 
 yet run their guarantee, — 3500 miles, — we think they have 
 done very well indeed. 
 
 We first crossed the Bay to Sausalito, and traced our 
 road by the map, first seeing the beautiful hills over there, 
 and soon coming quite near to beautiful Mt. Tamalpais, 
 which you no doubt remember hearing me talk about 
 before. Then on, over and around the hills, until we 
 reached Santa Rosa for lunch. We went to an Italian 
 restaurant that we had heard good reports of, and en- 
 joyed some fresh young chicken — nothing else looked to 
 be a "prize winner"! 
 
 In this district there are many hop fields — they are 
 the only ones we recall having seen in this country. The 
 sight of them carried us back in memory to England and 
 the ride from Brighton Beach to Tunbridge Wells. Here 
 they are poled only four or five feet, and it seems to me 
 that the English ones were very much higher. 
 
 It is interesting to see the fine farming done by the 
 Italian-Swiss colonies. They keep the soil in perfect 
 condition, and grow principally grapes and hay, but also 
 other products in small quantities. 
 
 We came into Cloverdale expecting to spend the night 
 there at a good resort hotel, but they could not take us, 
 and suggested that we go on to Ukiah to the Palace Hotel. 
 They themselves phoned for accommodations, and found 
 they could give us "suites with bath," so we cheered up 
 and started ofF for another thirty miles. On city streets 
 or state highways that distance would have meant very 
 little, but on the road we were going over it meant that we 
 [99] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 did not arrive until seven forty-five. The sight of the 
 "Palace" made us faint at heart! The manager looked 
 clean, but was so very corpulent that we were reminded 
 of the saying: "Nobody loves a fat man," and when we 
 entered we felt that, dusty as the car was, we would do 
 better to sleep in it. But we were shown to our rooms, 
 going to them on stairs from which one could have lifted 
 the dirt with a tablespoon, and, alas! the rooms were little 
 better, but the beds seemed clean, and we were so tired 
 that we agreed to remain. One room had a window with 
 the curtain, or shade, drawn. When I insisted upon the 
 boy raising it to give us air, he did so reluctantly, for it 
 opened into the hallway only. In the bureau drawer were 
 a bottle of whisky and a horse-shoe, and back of the door 
 a trunk, so that we expected a caller any time in the night. 
 We had the whisky removed and were told that the owner 
 of the trunk was in Europe. And now let me lead you to 
 the dining-room: The linoleum on the floor was so mouldy 
 that the sight and smell of it made us feel sick as we en- 
 tered, and when we saw the food, we quickly forgot that 
 we had just said that we were starved — and this is what 
 we were to have for two meals! Be assured I dieted and 
 my husband ate carefully. I think it useless to describe 
 further this awful "Palace," but must tell you that I saw 
 the beds we had occupied being made up next morning 
 with our sheets not even taken off to be shaken, but an 
 attempt made to smooth out the wrinkles. I felt like 
 putting up signs along the road: "Avoid the dirt and 
 don't stop at 'the Palace' at Ukiah!" You remember 
 what I told you of McCauley's ? Their house was quite 
 cleanly as compared with this. 
 
 On this day, long to be remembered, we had made 125 
 miles. We were repaid for arriving late by seeing the 
 glory of the sunset over the mountains. 
 
 [100] 
 
THROUGH THE ''REDWOODS'' 
 
 The Russian River formed a pleasant part of the land- 
 scape on our way from Ukiah to Lake County to see the 
 lakes. We saw Blue Lake while we were yet miles away 
 from its banks. When we reached them we drove quite 
 all around it until we found a resort where there is a small 
 hotel, and swimming, boating, and outdoor games. It 
 was too early for lunch, so we did not sample the food, but 
 on to Laurel Dell, the second "blue lake," then another 
 twelve miles to Lakeport on Clear Lake, and this is a beau- 
 tiful sight to behold. All of the ride was beautiful, but 
 this lake seemed a fitting climax, and the sight of its 
 beauty made us decide to remain here overnight, though 
 it was then only one o'clock. The Garnett Hotel here 
 is small, but it has good rooms and good food, which was 
 most refreshing after what we had endured the night be- 
 fore. One place on the lake is called Willow Point. 
 There one can enjoy the full view of the water and be 
 entirely in the shade — and how we did enjoy it! 
 
 A small boy here, about seven years of age, interested 
 me greatly. He finally was persuaded to get into a boat 
 and let me take his picture, and I hope by this means I 
 can show him to you. He was intent on trying to fish, and 
 after getting ideas and instructions from me he announced 
 that he had for bait a piece of peach. When I told him 
 he could do nothing with that, he solved the problem by 
 saying he could use flies, and he knew where he could get 
 any number, for a tent near by had lots of them about the 
 food. When I left he was still trying to catch flies to fish 
 with. 
 
 When we started on the next morning we had the pleas- 
 ure of riding on the shore of this clear lake for three miles, 
 and then for a while in sight of the upper lake. As the 
 hills rise apparently right out of these lakes, they present 
 a very attractive picture. 
 [ioi] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 Our roads were good but narrow to Whittier Springs, a 
 health resort where there is a fine hotel. We did not wish 
 to tarry, so we saw only the buildings and the broad out- 
 look from them and rode on, through beautiful scenery, 
 fording the Dutch River several times. We passed many 
 teams and cars on the narrow roads. We saw two deer 
 on our way. At two twenty we arrived at "Willets," 
 but found the dining-room closed until six p. m. The 
 eight-hour labor law is hard on hotels and those who 
 would use them at their convenience — so this day we 
 went lunchless. 
 
 The next morning, which was July 9th, we rose at five 
 forty in order to get an early start for an eighty-six mile 
 run over and around the Mendocino Mountains. We 
 made only nineteen miles the first two hours — you can 
 judge of the roads from that! We had to back down a 
 hill quite a ways to let one team pass. It was a fine man 
 who made it possible to use these mountain roads at all, 
 but all who ride over them wish he had made them wider. 
 
 A good part of the ride this day was through a lumber- 
 ing district, and we saw many men at work and saw their 
 camps, and felt glad we did not have to stay in so isolated 
 a place. Many of the mountain peaks were snow-capped. 
 We followed the "Eel" River for many miles. It is well 
 named; though so small, it is very pretty because so well 
 wooded. The colors and shadows on the mountains were 
 perfect, and it keeps one busy trying to see all that is 
 well worth seeing. We saw two more deer; stopped at 
 Bell Springs for water, came through Harris, and then on 
 to Fort Seward. Here we stopped, having a letter in- 
 troducing us to the lady who is managing the beautiful 
 hotel. Here too, we met several friends of Dr. Spencer, 
 so we felt quite at home and were well cared for. It had 
 been a hard ride all day, and we were thankful to find good 
 
 [ 102] 
 
THROUGH THE "REDWOODS" 
 
 food and rooms. All rooms are small, so we insure ventila- 
 tion by each using a room to himself. 
 
 We were up the next morning at six fifteen to make an 
 early start again for another long hard run. We took 
 some pictures before leaving, and we met here Mayor 
 Mott, of Oakland. 
 
 We came through the Humboldt County redwood groves 
 and found them quite wonderful in size, age, color, and 
 beauty. Some of them seemed surely ioo feet at the 
 base, and most of them taller than my eye could measure. 
 Just offhand I should suppose that they would measure 
 fifty feet at base, and some 225 feet in height. One of 
 these beauties was responsible for a three-quarter-hour 
 delay, for it had just been felled — to make room for the 
 state highway — and lay right across our road. We 
 watched the men saw it in two places and roll the middle 
 piece off the road — rather I should say "crow-bar" it out 
 of the way. We hadn't gone far when we came upon a 
 steam hoist that filled the whole road, and we had to wait 
 for them to get out of the way. Every hour lost means 
 that much later arrival at our destination. These roads 
 are very narrow and precipitous — grades very steep. An- 
 other delay was caused by the crossing of the river at Rio- 
 dell on a ferry operated by a man pushing it along on a 
 cable. Our car is so heavy, and these boats so weak look- 
 ing, that we are always glad when we reach the other side 
 in safety. 
 
 We made calls on some of Dr. Spencer's friends on our 
 way to Eureka, stopping for this purpose at Alton, Hydes- 
 ville, and Fortuna, and arrived at Eureka at six fifteen 
 p. M. after a very fine and interesting day. 
 
 Eureka is a foggy Bay city — or, I should rather say, 
 "town." We went out early in the morning to visit the 
 "stump house." You will not understand that unless I 
 [ 103 ] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 explain that this is a curio house, being the interior of part 
 of a redwood tree. It is quite spacious, with its full- 
 sized doors and high ceilings. You would need to be told 
 that you were not in any regular room. In here are speci- 
 mens of burl that have been cut from the redwoods. One 
 slab is about 3x8 feet, and so beautifully marked that 
 it looks more like a painting than a piece of wood. Do 
 you know that these burls are only knots, or formations 
 that grow on the side of the trunk, just as a branch might 
 have grown? The wood of them is usually distinctively 
 marked, such as some we have seen in which the grain of 
 the wood looks like fern leaves, every marking of the leaf 
 showing. At the stump house they have very curious 
 pieces: one shows two figures face to face as though talk- 
 ing; it is named "The Neighbors"; another is a perfect 
 fox; two pieces are a perfectly shaped pair of eyes; an- 
 other is a perfect form of a human limb — and they even 
 have a shoe and sock on it! Outside, hanging on another 
 stump, is a burl dressed as a boy and called the "Watch- 
 man." It is quite realistic and exceedingly interesting. 
 In a special room there are articles for sale made from 
 burl, and some fine pictures of the trees. If you wish to 
 see the burl frames and pictures I bought you must go to 
 Honolulu, for we sent them there direct. They alone 
 are worth a visit down there, and then, incidentally, you 
 could see us and the home that shelters the pictures — and 
 yours truly. 
 
 After the visit to the stump house we rode out to the 
 park, and it is lovely; the redwoods are so stately and 
 fine and the lake is charming. In it were some swans that 
 entertained us, hoping we would throw them food. 
 There is a real zoo here, and picnic grounds. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. McMurray, friends of Dr. Spencer's, called 
 in the afternoon, and their call was a real pleasure to us. 
 
 [ 104] 
 
THROUGH THE ''REDWOODS'' 
 
 The next day being Sunday, we went to Christ Church 
 at eleven and enjoyed a very pleasant service. The con- 
 gregation was small. The preacher has a more powerful 
 voice than he is a powerful preacher. 
 
 We made two calls in the afternoon, and I got off 
 twenty-five pieces of mail. 
 
 The climate of Eureka is not unlike that of San Fran- 
 cisco: cool, or cold, damp, and foggy. They say they 
 have had an unusual amount of damp weather this year. 
 As much as we dislike real hot weather, we prefer that 
 to fog and damp. 
 
 We left Eureka at nine Monday morning for one of the 
 most beautiful drives we have ever seen. We came over a 
 narrow but good road to Orick, where we lunched. "Mad 
 River" was very pretty from sections of our way, but for 
 the most part the road lay along the coast front; however, 
 it was high above the beach, so that we could look out 
 over the sea for miles, and when it turns away from the 
 sea, it is only to lead into a beautiful, heavily wooded 
 forest, and though surrounded by heavy timber, we could 
 still hear the rush and roar of the sea; then, in an instant, 
 we were out again gazing into its blue deeps. Another 
 attraction was the beautiful lagoons along the coast. 
 We also saw beautiful wild flowers — mustard, in great 
 abundance, roses, azaleas, and white daisies, and a host of 
 blackberries. 
 
 Once, upon looking down on the beach, I was much sur- 
 prised to see a perfect evergreen tree growing in sand, and 
 practically surrounded by salt water, for there was a 
 lagoon back of it. 
 
 The rock formations were beautiful, too; many of them 
 remind one of the Seal rocks in the Bay at San Francisco. 
 
 Many of the wagons that passed us were filled with 
 Indian families, and they always respond to a smile and 
 [105] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 a greeting. These Indians speak English, and are not 
 blanketed or painted, though they are full bloods. I 
 believe there is a large reservation on the mountain near 
 Orick. 
 
 The ferns along this route are even more superb than 
 those of Fern Forest on the Island of Hawaii. Though 
 there are not so many tree ferns, the variety is greater, 
 and they seem more thriving, standing so erect and such 
 beautiful green, some of them standing six feet in height 
 — and all this, mark you! within sight or sound of the sea. 
 We are charmed with the day's ride and its varied ob- 
 jects of interest. 
 
 Much of this beauty will be missed by those who tour 
 California in the future, for they will likely go over the 
 new and beautiful state highway. If they do they surely 
 will ride in more comfort and safety, but will miss much 
 as well as see much. And when I say "safety," I should 
 tell you that we drove miles today through places where 
 not even a dog could have passed us safely. You may be 
 sure we were always glad not to see a team or car on those 
 sections of the road. The grades are steep, and often the 
 ascent, or descent, is on a sharp curve. Believe me, if we 
 didn't have such an expert at the wheel we would never 
 do such riding, for it is hazardous. But teams along the 
 way, when we do meet them, certainly do make a way for 
 the cars, and always take the outside without being asked. 
 I have seen some of them in places over which I should re- 
 fuse ever to drive a pair of horses, but so far none have 
 come to grief, and no horses have done more than shy at 
 our car. 
 
 I wish I could tell you how picturesque many of the old 
 blown-over stumps are, entirely covered with beautiful 
 growing fern. And again very often a new tree is to be 
 seen growing out of an old stump. In many instances 
 
 [106] 
 
THROUGH THE ''REDWOODS'* 
 
 these seem quite wonderful, for the stump is either out 
 of the ground and you fail to see what the new tree is 
 thriving on, or it is still standing where it always did, but 
 is all burned from the ground, only the upper part of it 
 being alive at all. I have seen the new trees standing out 
 in any and all directions, but many of them exactly in the 
 middle of the stump. I feel sure they will present a very 
 artistic appearance when full grown. 
 
 We crossed the Klamath River in one of those weak- 
 looking things called a ferry. The river was quite swift, 
 and but for the launch that towed us and the cable that 
 kept us in position I should much prefer being excused 
 from crossing this river in a car. But don't be afraid, for 
 by the time you take this trip (and it is paying little com- 
 pliment to my descriptive powers if you are not scared) 
 the bridges that are now under construction will carry 
 you across securely. 
 
 We reached Crescent City by night, having made 102 
 miles that day. The last four miles we had the pleasure 
 of riding on the beach, and the smooth riding was a joy 
 after so much narrow and rocky road. 
 
 This city is named from its position on the Bay. 
 
 Our man was very tired after such a strenuous day, and 
 we were all glad there was nothing in this country town 
 exciting enough to prevent our resting all the morning — 
 just enjoying the sight and air of the sea. In the after- 
 noon we went out fourteen miles to Smith River Valley 
 to see some more redwoods and the Smith River. The 
 trees are always there, but the water in the river is affected 
 by seasons, and at this time of the year there is little water 
 to be seen. The day was clear and beautiful, but the 
 wind was beyond measure. 
 
 We saw today some more curious mail boxes. There 
 are in use for these boxes tin cans, half-gallon measures, 
 [107] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 wooden boxes, and today we saw a very ingenious one: 
 it is an exact model of the owner's bungalow, and looks 
 like a bird house. As the stages carrying the mails are high, 
 and the driver expected not to leave his seat, the boxes must 
 be placed high — sometimes they are hung from a tree. 
 
 We left Crescent City at half-past eight in the morning 
 for a ninety-six mile drive to Grant's Pass, Oregon. Our 
 way lay along the usual narrow mountain roads until we 
 passed the state line, when we soon found that Oregon 
 has wider but more dusty roads. 
 
 We crossed the line two miles north of Monumental 
 (one house). It seems so strange to me to see so many 
 "towns" on the map in large print, and when we look for 
 the town we find it has only one house, and sometimes even 
 that should hardly be designated by the name of "house." 
 
 There was more low brush than timber along this part 
 of the way, but there is always something to attract — 
 this time it was the rivers we saw: South River, Rock 
 Creek, Applegate River, and the well-known and always 
 beautiful Rogue River. There was nothing else of special 
 note except the awful heat on our arrival at Grant's Pass 
 at six thirty in the evening. 
 
 Josephine Hotel here was clean and quite good, and 
 on the European plan — pay for only what we eat and get 
 better food ! 
 
 But if the heat on arrival was great, what shall I say 
 of the next day, when the mercury stood at no° in the 
 shade! And we were taken so by surprise, for we had 
 thought of Oregon as cool, when not cold, but, alas! not 
 so today. It was the hottest the residents ever remember, 
 and surely they will never forget it. 
 
 We had some callers and then drove out to Tokay 
 Heights to see Mr. and Mrs. McKibbon, friends of 
 Olga's whom I have known for nine years through cor- 
 
 [108] 
 
THROUGH THE "REDWOODS'* 
 
 respondence about them and their travels, and they had 
 heard as much about us. We were all very glad to meet 
 face to face. They have just built a new home, and have 
 twenty-eight acres in orchard and almonds. We spent a 
 very pleasant afternoon, and before we left they decided 
 to take their car and two guests and go with us the next 
 morning, which was very, very pleasant for us, for they 
 knew the way and the points of interest. 
 
 So we left Grant's Pass at eight forty-five the next morn- 
 ing, the McKibbon car in the lead. One of their guests 
 was Professor Hull, originally of Kansas City, and now 
 supervisor of public schools in the West. He is a charm- 
 ing man and a very jolly companion. 
 
 Savage Rapids in the everywhere beautiful Rogue River 
 were very attractive. We rode through Sams Valley in 
 awful heat, and after a sixty-seven mile run reached Pros- 
 pect Park, where it is "always cool." Alas! today was a 
 shining exception. It did cool off for the evening, how- 
 ever. From here we walked quite a mile — we all agreed, 
 though the sign-board said y^ mile — down and up grade 
 to see Mill Creek Falls. It was well worth the trip, for 
 they are truly beautiful. The fall is 240 feet. One of 
 the sugar pines along this walk measures thirty-one feet in 
 circumference. We killed a real rattle-snake having 
 seven rattles. The hotel here was small but unusually 
 clean, and served good food well cooked, and all of that 
 cannot be said of most of the hotels encountered on this 
 trip. The bedrooms were amusingly plain: the wash- 
 stand was a bench, the pitcher and basin were of enamel- 
 ware, the bureau was a little table with a glass 6x8 
 inches hung above it. But everything was very clean and 
 we rested nicely. 
 
 In the morning, July 18, we left Prospect at seven forty- 
 five, with a long hard pull of ninety-eight miles ahead of 
 [109] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 us. The first thirty-five miles took us to an elevation of 
 7200 feet, through beautiful forests, to Crater Lake, one 
 of the greatest wonders of the world. The water in this 
 crater has been sounded to a depth of 1996 feet, but the 
 actual depth is not known, so far as I could learn. The 
 water is so blue that the beautiful blue sky above seems 
 all faded out. It is 1000 feet from the rim down to the 
 water. Had there been anywhere to sleep but in tents, 
 we would have stayed overnight here, for I was very 
 anxious to get out on that water in a boat. There are two 
 little islands in the lake: one with its rugged point is 
 called Phantom Ship — this scene is far beyond my powers 
 of description, you must see it! If you can't see the orig- 
 inal, do slip down to Honolulu and see the oil painting of 
 it that we purchased. We had an excellent trout lunch 
 up here. The lake is in a National Forest, so it will al- 
 ways be protected, and a fine hotel is being built. They 
 are constructing a fine state highway through here, and it 
 is very sad to see the noble old trees being felled to make 
 way for it. 
 
 On going out of the Park we had to pass an enormous 
 steam shovel, and had it not been situated just as it was, 
 where there was an opportunity for us to climb around it 
 in the woods, we would have lost several hours waiting 
 for it. 
 
 The dust is so thick on the Oregon roads that we need 
 use no horn — the dust accompanying us is a signal that 
 can be seen for a mile. We can hardly see each other in 
 the car at times — and how we dread to pass a team, or 
 another car, for we never think of the dust we are giving 
 them, but only of what we are taking from them! 
 
 Finally we passed the crest and began coming down, so 
 that at Fort Klamath we were only 4172 feet up. The 
 way lay through Wood River Valley, and we saw much 
 
 [no] 
 
NORTHERN PART OF THE STATE 
 
 snow on the distant mountains, but it didn't cool us off 
 any. 
 
 We drove for miles on the road above Klamath Lake, 
 and pulled into Klamath Falls, at the White Pelican Hotel, 
 at five thirty, nearly roasted, and covered with dust al- 
 most beyond recognition, but quite happy to have seen 
 what we had this day of nature's beauties. 
 
 The hotel here is all that could be asked, and as it was 
 too hot on Sunday to wear any unnecessary clothing, we 
 had meals served in our rooms and slept and wrote untib 
 fortunately, by evening it cooled off. 
 
 We leave here for Shasta Springs, RedblufF, Lake Ta- 
 hoe, and Sacramento, and expect to get into San Francisco 
 about the thirtieth. 
 
 Good-night to you all. Mizpah ! 
 
 NORTHERN PART OF THE STATE 
 According to the records, I have not written you since 
 July 20th, at which time I left you at Klamath Falls, 
 where there are no "falls"; where the beautiful Klamath 
 Lake is miles away, and where the river of that name is 
 also far distant. We went there for fishing, but as we did 
 not care to drive thirty miles each day to reach water, we 
 had no fishing. Now, on July 21, I take you with us for 
 a 112-mile run to Shasta Springs, a resort well known 
 throughout the state. 
 
 When we left the White Pelican Hotel we saw Mt. Shasta 
 75 miles away, and we seldom lost sight of it for a whole 
 day at any time. It is beautiful to watch, noticing how 
 different those huge masses of rock look from different 
 angles, and how different the snow looks at different times 
 as it lies cuddled in all the crevices and covering the actual 
 top of the mountain, 
 [ml 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 We had the pleasure of again riding through a sugar- 
 pine forest. The trees are beautiful, though none so large 
 as the redwoods. 
 
 Again I must speak of the contrast between nature as it 
 is seen in its age and beauty in the north of this state, and 
 the likewise beautiful, but altogether cultivated, condi- 
 tions in the south — of course, you recall that we are again 
 back in California. 
 
 The range of Siskiyou Mountains is very attractive to look 
 upon; several peaks are snow-covered. We rode through 
 plenty of grasshoppers all day. They even flew into the 
 car, kissing and caressing us in a quite too friendly way. 
 
 The hotel at Shasta Springs is run on the cottage sys- 
 tem, with one main dining-room; it is a very popular 
 house as a resort. 
 
 We left at nine fifteen the next morning, thinking that 
 our short run for the day (seventy-one miles) could 
 easily be accomplished, but we foolishly clung to a very 
 fine piece of road, even paying five dollars toll to drive 
 over it, only to come, after sixteen miles of it, to a locked 
 gate to find that we were riding on private property lead- 
 ing to summer residences on the river front. So back we 
 had to go, charging up to "P. L." thirty-two miles. By 
 this time we were growing excited, for we had learned that 
 the road we must travel was the worst in the state, and 
 that meant to us something more than the annoyance of 
 the bad road, as we had found that in such conditions we 
 could make at the best only eight or nine miles an hour. 
 But on we went, and we made our 108 miles by seven 
 thirty. 
 
 We tried to come by way of the town of "Baird," but 
 the road was closed. We were going to claim the owner- 
 ship of all we saw, though that would not have been much 
 besides the State fish hatchery. 
 
 [112] 
 
NORTHERN PART OF THE STATE 
 
 We followed the Sacramento River all day, and found 
 it of real beauty in many places. Castlecrag Mountain 
 is well named, and makes a picture in the landscape that 
 can be seen for miles around. At La Moine there is a very 
 large timber mill, but we did not stop. At Kennett we 
 had to cross the river on one of those toy ferries and made 
 a poor landing in sand. While the others worked with 
 the car and the sand "the photographer" took what 
 proved to be a beautiful picture — she took it under diffi- 
 culties, too! 
 
 Our roads this day were very rocky, dusty, and narrow 
 — so narrow that they looked like scratches on the sides 
 of the mountains as we rode over and around them all the 
 way. The road was the worst, truly — so bad that we 
 decided to continue our way to Lake Tahoe by train. 
 
 We saw Mt. Shasta in the distance several times dur- 
 ing the day. We reached Redding at seven thirty, and 
 found there a fairly good hotel — and we surely were ready 
 for food and bed, though we always have food with us in 
 the lunch kit, so never suffer for that. Don't infer from 
 this that we do not enjoy motoring and seeing the scenery 
 we could not see from a train: we do, but we like fairly 
 good roads. 
 
 We left Redding in the morning (July 23) on the eight 
 thirty-five train : having sent the car on to meet us at Lake 
 Tahoe. 
 
 Though we came through a very hot valley on a hot day, 
 we were entirely comfortable. Instead of having to go 
 into Sacramento, as we had anticipated, our genial con- 
 ductor so arranged tickets and baggage that we changed 
 trains at Roseville and thus arrived at the Tavern at 
 Lake Tahoe at nine that evening instead of eight next 
 morning, as planned out by the hotel clerk — a not always 
 efficient bureau of information. 
 [113] 8 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 Our day's ride was through rich and interesting ranch 
 (farm) lands — one ranch has 59,000 acres. It was given 
 by Governor Stanford to Stanford University. They 
 grow nearly everything, and it is quite an asset to the 
 University. 
 
 A great many hops are grown in this district — one ranch 
 has 614 acres in hops. 
 
 We did not ride through the town of Oroville, but were 
 much interested in the accounts of the unusual combina- 
 tions of soil there: it is not only very rich in gold, having 
 large mines, but very rich also in olives and oranges. 
 
 Our train crossed the Yuba, Bear, and Feather Rivers, 
 but the water is always very low in summer. Three 
 miles from Truckee (which is the station where the change 
 is made from the main line to the small train for Tahoe) 
 is Donner Lake, three miles long and one wide. It has 
 historical interest as well as beauty. 
 
 Though we were hours on the way, we enjoyed the trip 
 and found the change of riding on tracks instead of rocks 
 very pleasant. 
 
 LAKE TAHOE AND SACRAMENTO 
 A daily account of this part of the trip might be tire- 
 some reading, for in resorts one is apt to walk, talk, eat, 
 sleep, and be merry, each day being about the same as 
 every other, so I will bulk our days spent here — and I 
 might write all day and not then be able to express to you 
 my fascination for all of the real beauty which everywhere 
 surrounds this lake district. 
 
 After spending the first night at the Tavern, which, by 
 the way, is a very fine house, we took a trip the next morn- 
 ing nearly around the Lake, stopping at all the resorts to 
 take on or leave passengers. Except Tallac and Glen- 
 brook, these resorts are all built principally of tents with 
 
 [114] 
 
LAKE TAHOE AND SACRAMENTO 
 
 a tiny hotel, but there are so many who prefer an out-of- 
 door life that these places are quite as popular as the 
 larger ones. There are plenty of fishing, boating, swim- 
 ming, mountain climbing, and trail riding, and every- 
 body seems to forget care and enjoy everything that comes. 
 Trout fishing is a great attraction, and the fish is at such a 
 premium that a good catch means dollars and cents as 
 well as sport, for they can be sold for from thirty to sixty 
 cents a pound, and in San Francisco at any price the dealer 
 asks. I should say that in two or three hours we only 
 caught two, but we were quite proud of even that when we 
 found a professional fisherman who only had four in two 
 hours' more time — the fish were either scarce or are getting 
 too wise. As we were eating trout at the hotel we shipped 
 ours to Dr. Spencer in San Francisco, and she can't say 
 enough in praise of the fishermen who caught such de- 
 licious fish. I should judge they weighed five or seven 
 pounds, and the use of the boat and man to manage it only 
 cost us three dollars, so that is cheap sport, isn't it? 
 Later on I have another fish story to tell you. 
 
 We stayed at Glenbrook until our car reached us, and 
 then went back over the mountains to the Tavern. 
 
 Lake Tahoe is well known throughout the country. It 
 is a mountain lake twenty-four miles long and thirteen 
 across. It has been sounded to a depth of 2000 feet. At 
 Rubicon Point the elevation above the sea is 6240 feet, 
 and the mountains rise up above and around the water for 
 thousands of feet. The lake lies in a depression of the 
 Sierras, and the state line runs nearly through the middle, 
 so while we were at Glenbrook we were in Nevada, while 
 at the Tavern we were in California. Carson City is 
 only fifteen miles from the lake, and Reno about thirty- 
 five. In the region of Tahoe are more than 100 streams 
 that feed this lake; the rivers are Truckee, Upper Truckee, 
 
 ["Si 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 American, and Yuba. They are all famous for their 
 beauty and for the trout fishing. 
 
 Tahoe was first seen by a white man, J. C. Fremont, in 
 February, 1844. The name Tahoe is Indian, and means 
 Big, or High, Water. On its surface are sharply con- 
 trasted colors. The best description of it would be a ring 
 of emerald with a heart of blue, for that is just what one 
 sees as he looks upon it — and then such wonderful 
 shades and variations at sunset and sunrise! To my 
 mind the white snow on the surrounding mountain-tops 
 helps very much to make the striking contrasts. The 
 mountain sides are green, and surely beautiful in their ir- 
 regularity of height and form. 
 
 Truckee is fifteen miles from the lake, and the Tahoe 
 transportation train runs along by the side of the Truckee 
 River for most of the way. The varieties of trout to be 
 found in these streams are the Rainbow, Eastern brook, 
 Loch Leven, and Mackinaw. We used copper lines 
 trolling for them; I saw no fly fishing at all. There are 
 many residences around the lake, and it is a very popular 
 California resort in summer, but in winter it is quite a 
 different place. Then the snow falls as high as fourteen 
 feet; caretakers have to be left there to shovel the snow 
 off the roofs (and they are quite welcome to the job!), or 
 the frame structures could not stand the weight. 
 
 The grounds at Glenbrook and the Tavern are veritable 
 gardens and exceedingly attractive. "Shakespeare Rock" 
 is just another of those freaks of rock formation, but this 
 likeness is certainly very striking and impressed me as 
 being at least as good as any we saw at Stratford, England. 
 Emerald Bay is truly well named, and the little island of 
 rock in it adds not a little to its beauty. 
 
 We did not see our car again until the fourth day after 
 we had left it. He claimed he had bad luck as soon as the 
 
 [116] 
 
LAKE TAHOE AND SACRAMENTO 
 
 "Baird luck" left him. He weighs seven pounds less 
 than when he left home. He is welcome to his work. 
 While driving is hard, to me it would be just as hard sit- 
 ting around waiting for orders to move on. 
 
 We saw a few Indians, but they are very scarce there 
 now — where the white man enters the red man seems to 
 leave. There is an unusual number of beautiful gulls this 
 year, and I admire them very much. 
 
 One evening we heard a lecture on Egypt by a clergy- 
 man who doesn't happen to know more about his sub- 
 ject than we do — and that isn't giving him much credit. 
 
 We visited an exhibit of Indian basket-work, and found 
 an interesting collection. Can you imagine a single basket 
 selling for #1500 or #3000? Yes, they do, and people buy 
 them, too — but not these people ! We saw a seventy-nine- 
 year-old squaw working, and she does the finest kind of 
 work. I couldn't even make a good guess what she weighs, 
 but surely not under 400. She has wonderful black hair 
 and looks only about fifty years old, but her history is well 
 known, and seventy-nine for her age is authentic. I can't 
 show her to you, as she doesn't stand for kodaks. She 
 earns good money and has too much pride. 
 
 And now we are leaving the lake in our car, and I wish 
 I might actually take you over that road to get the views. 
 While surrounded by lovely pine and fir trees, as you rode 
 you would look out upon that sheet of green and blue, 
 with the mountains seeming to burst out of its midst. 
 And while riding over the summits and seeing beyond for 
 miles, and below for thousands of feet, you will be awed 
 not only by the marvelous beauty, but also by the knowl- 
 edge that there is not room for another car to pass, and 
 yet there may be one any minute around one of the many 
 curves. I took this ride twice and enjoyed it; would you 
 be willing to take it once after reading this attempt at a 
 1 117] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 thrilling story ? You would if I were along. I would see 
 to it that you never let fear spoil your pleasure in seeing 
 nature in all its beauty. 
 
 Now (July 29th) we are in Sacramento, the capital of 
 this beautiful state. You may be interested to know that 
 its streets and frame residences, with their lawns and gar- 
 dens around them, made me think of Cleveland. It is 
 a much prettier city than I had expected to see. The 
 Capitol building and grounds cover ten squares. The 
 building itself is old, having been erected in 1860-70, at 
 a cost of three million. It is, however, in good condition. 
 The two " houses " are quite pretty. Over the desk in one 
 hangs a full-sized picture of Lincoln, in the other, one of 
 Washington. There are other paintings and portraits. 
 On entering one sees the famous statue of Queen Isabella of 
 Spain which has some interesting incidents connected with 
 it: it was carved by an American in Florence, Italy (the 
 home of much beautiful art), and shipped to New York. 
 When it was being unloaded from the ship the pulley 
 broke and it landed in New York Bay, and remained there 
 for three months — it weighs five tons. It was finally 
 raised and brought here, and, so far as I know, only one 
 finger was broken by its accident. It is cut from a single 
 piece of marble, and is really very artistic. There are 
 many relics of flags in cases — some from the Spanish- 
 American war, and some from the Civil war — only one that 
 actually got to the front because of the distance and lack 
 of means of transportation for the army. The view of the 
 gardens and city from the tower is very attractive. The 
 capitol grounds are lovely; they have orange, lemon, 
 grape-fruit, and hundreds of other trees; beautiful ole- 
 anders, flowering bushes and flowers, and all in fine con- 
 dition. The population of the city was given me as 
 75,000. We enjoyed a visit to the Crocker Art Gallery. 
 
 [118 J 
 
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 This is a private collection of foreign and ancient artists, 
 and one feels quite out of this country at seeing some of 
 the works of Murillo, Raphael, Leonardo, and others. 
 Also while in the city we called on Bishop Moreland, but 
 found they were all away. One day we went out to old 
 Fort Sutter, which is now only a relic of times gone by. 
 Here are preserved some of the things that were sent around 
 the Horn and were the first of their kind to reach this state. 
 Among them are a printing press and a fire engine. There 
 is an ox cart two hundred years old. General Sutter was 
 Spanish. The first gold found in the state was found on 
 his ranch at Coloma in 1848. 
 
 And now we leave this city, having seen what we did in 
 a very limited time on a very hot day. 
 
 We went by electric train to San Francisco. The train 
 crosses the Sacramento River on a ferry. The ride is a 
 pretty one, but too hot through Sacramento Valley to 
 make it by motor, so again we sent the car on ahead. 
 
 En route I inquired what the tanks in the distance were, 
 and learned that they are Standard Oil tanks in a small 
 town called Pittsburg, so you see we seemed quite near 
 home for a little while. 
 
 Once more we are in San Francisco, and here I had a 
 busy time from Friday until Tuesday morning, when we 
 left for the south. Each trip required different packing 
 and a general fixing up, etc., and we had to decline invita- 
 tions and devote ourselves to it. However, we did call on 
 Bishop and Mrs. Nichols, returning a call made on us in 
 June. 
 
 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 August 4 
 On our way south, and there is little so far worth not- 
 ing. We made 115 miles the first day, and spent the night 
 [119] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 at Del Monte, that beautiful hotel that is a small world of 
 comfort and beauty, surrounded by 125 acres of trees, 
 lawns, and flowers. There are here 1366 varieties of plant 
 life; ninety varieties of roses — it is all too lovely to de- 
 scribe. You must see it for yourself. Monte is Spanish 
 for forest, and if you can picture to yourself a forest with 
 the ground covered with grass and flowers, then this is well 
 named. 
 
 The next day, before continuing out way south, we took 
 the famous seventeen-mile drive along the coast, and a 
 beautiful rocky coast it is, while the shore line is rather 
 thickly wooded with cypress trees, some of them quite 
 freaks of nature, such as the Ostrich, the Ghost tree, and 
 others. This Monterey Bay is noted for its natural beauty. 
 
 We covered 149 miles the second day, and reached 
 Paso Robles at seven forty-five, glad to eat and sleep. 
 The hotel here is a "has-been," but still people come here 
 for medicinal baths and treatment. 
 
 We left early next morning for Santa Barbara, over 161 
 miles of mountains, rough roads, pitches, and grades, but 
 we were for hours along the Santa Barbara Bay. 
 
 What would you think of two men who see what they 
 think looks like a sugar beet factory, and then insist that 
 the string and lima beans that are growing in great abun- 
 dance for miles are beets? But this non-farmer was not 
 convinced, and had the laugh on her husband and the 
 smart chauffeur who claims to have done gardening. And 
 what would you think ? wel , not having seen the beets or 
 beans, you can't think intelligently at all, can you ? 
 
 We came through Gaviota Pass, a hard trip, but the 
 beauty of the way, and later of the Bay, well paid for its 
 hardship — and then there was a fine hotel waiting to re- 
 ceive us at the end, and in it a clerk who had been six 
 years in the Bellevue in Philadelphia — and that reminds 
 
 [ 120] 
 
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 me I didn't tell you that at Redding the room clerk is a 
 Mr. Baird from Pennsylvania, and at Del Monte the 
 clerk is pleased to be able to claim Philadelphia as his 
 home. But I am not saying how many times we find 
 those who have been in Honolulu and congratulate us 
 upon being able to make our home there. Yes, I love 
 Philadelphia, but not enough to be willing to exclude Hon- 
 olulu from my heart, and I think you will soon find out 
 that the other member of this family has the fever also, 
 for in one instance I went to a chiropodist whom we each 
 patronize and he remarked: "Your husband is crazy 
 about Honolulu, isn't he?" At another time a manicure 
 said to me: "Your husband enjoys talking about Hono- 
 lulu, doesn't he?" When I say innocently, "Does he?" 
 they reply: "Oh my, yes!" Now tell me, how did I get 
 from Santa Barbara to Honolulu so quickly and suddenly ? 
 Well, now I'll quit my wandering and get back to August 
 7th, en route to Los Angeles — another hard drive. It 
 seems very difficult to overcome disappointment over the 
 roads of southern California, for out of and into each city, 
 for twenty-five or fifty miles, one rides over such beau- 
 tiful boulevards that when he strikes a road that could 
 really be thought of as a fairly good one, it seems very bad. 
 The wonder to me is that one does not jolt surplus flesh 
 off in such driving — but I suppose one ought to be thank- 
 ful not to jolt it on, and be quiet. 
 
 Have I told you that in this state there are 330,000 
 acres of land planted in grapes — 70,000 acres in wine 
 grapes; 110,000 acres in raisins; and 50,000 acres in table 
 grapes ? How little we think of the land required and of 
 the labor it takes when we eat the product of the farmers' 
 toils! 
 
 If disappointments make a crown for us, I expect a 
 jeweled crown as the result of having suffered this sum- 
 [121] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 mer's keen disappointment over six different people who 
 were to have shared our pleasures with us, but at the last 
 had circumstances arise that made it impossible. Had we 
 been able to foresee all this, we might have summered in 
 Honolulu, but who could tell? and we have had each 
 other, but have felt so selfish in a big empty car, and we 
 might have made many vacations brighter in Honolulu 
 by sharing our beautiful home. But I believe all is as 
 it should have been, and we have thoroughly enjoyed 
 the short summer that has rushed away from us so 
 rapidly. 
 
 I think I will "bulk" the record of our stay in Los 
 Angeles, and so not weary you with excess of detail. Our 
 first day we spent in again enjoying Pasadena and the 
 lovely Busch Gardens, riding through "Bairdstown" 
 and Park, and a drive to the Beaches, where they have a 
 "Venice" as one of their attractions, and to make the 
 name significant, they have a canal with gondolas on it 
 carrying passengers between resorts. 
 
 It is very cool down here — which reminds me, please 
 don't be influenced by any one to avoid southern Cali- 
 fornia in the summer on account of supposed heat and 
 dust; this is our second summer here, and we have not 
 been troubled with either in the south; plenty of both in 
 the north — here we have been glad to wear top-coats and 
 use a lap-robe in the car. While in the north, with all its 
 richness of natural beauty, one is apt to think of the south 
 as only artificial, but once here in the south, it is impossible 
 not to think it very attractive and really beautiful — it 
 rather fascinates one. 
 
 On Sunday we went to the Protestant Cathedral, but 
 were not much impressed with Dean McCormick's sermon 
 on "Washing the Hands to the Elbows." Perhaps you 
 will think that some of the "jewels" in that "crown" will 
 
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SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 be missing when I tell you that I sent off thirty pieces of 
 mail on this Sunday. Sunday seems the one day when 
 nothing calls me hither and thither, and I can always ac- 
 complish a great deal more — and anyway, I clear my 
 conscience of holding unanswered letters. 
 
 Today we left at eight thirty for a trip to Riverside, 
 sixty-five miles from here, reaching there at eleven forty- 
 five. We were entertained at luncheon (I suppose you 
 know the difference between "lunch" and "luncheon" 
 — the one is 50 cents, the other #1.50; difference, #1.00) 
 by my newly found and charming friend, Mrs. Shearman, 
 whom I met in Honolulu (there it goes again, but I can't 
 talk or think without it!). She had invited Canon Pot- 
 wine and his wife (of Honolulu!) to meet us, so we had a 
 jolly time talking of "Home Sweet Home" and our inter- 
 ests there. From there we drove to Redlands and up on 
 Smiley Heights, returning to Los Angeles at seven forty- 
 five, having enjoyed a beautiful and happy day. 
 
 Now I must tell of our trip to Mt. Lowe: We went first 
 in Pacific Electric cars to the foot of Echo Mountain in 
 Rubio Canyon, then up in a cable train (length of track, 
 300 feet; direct ascent, 1325 feet; steepest grade, 62 
 per cent.) to the summit of Echo Mountain; from here we 
 had another electric train to the summit (no, not so, but 
 to 5000 elevation; "summit" is 6000 feet, the last 1000 
 done on donkeys, and we did not do it!) of Mt. Lowe. 
 This trip is quite worth while if it were only to see the 
 engineering that was done to build the road. It crosses 
 eighteen bridges, has 125 curves in its twenty-five miles 
 of length; the longest piece of straight track between 
 curves is 225 feet. But the "engineering" is not the 
 whole reward for the trip : the scenery is beautiful, and the 
 outlook inspiring, extending for miles in all directions on 
 a clear day. We were unfortunate enough to have some 
 [123] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 fog, but we could, nevertheless, see and enjoy much. The 
 canyons are quite varied in both colors and formation; 
 spruce and live oaks are in abundance. The trip is an 
 all-day one, but there is a "tavern" (hotel) where one 
 may break the day by lunch and rest. 
 
 Now to San Diego by train, for we have decided not to 
 motor down! This way, leaving Los Angeles at three 
 o'clock, we are in San Diego at six thirty p. m. The ride 
 is not especially attractive, except in those parts of it 
 where the track follows along by the sea. The popula- 
 tion of San Diego is estimated at 90,000 — it has doubled 
 one and a half times in the last four years. There are 128 
 miles of graded streets; 149 miles of cement sidewalks. 
 It has one 1400-acre park and numerous smaller ones. 
 It has a natural harbor of twenty-two square miles, and 
 expects to become a great center since the opening of the 
 canal. It contains forty-eight churches and fifty-five 
 saloons — the saloons are closed every Sunday, and from 
 midnight until six o'clock in the morning every other day 
 in the week. The city was founded in 1867, so is still in 
 its youth, but is more progressive than almost any other 
 city in the country. This is largely due to the interest 
 taken in it by John D. Spreckles. His holdings are so 
 large here as to give currency to the story that a tourist 
 once asked a citizen: "Who owns that electric line?" 
 The reply was, "John D. Spreckles." Walking a little 
 further he asked, "Who owns that hotel over there?" 
 "John D. Spreckles." Passing a striking looking block 
 the question was again asked, "Who owns this block of 
 buildings?" Upon receiving again the reply, "John D. 
 Spreckles," he fell silent, until looking out upon the sea 
 he asked, "Who owns that ocean?" The one questioned 
 smilingly admitted, "God owns that!" "Well," was the 
 rejoinder, "why doesn't John D. Spreckles get it away 
 
 [124] 
 
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 from Him?" But this implication does not represent the 
 feeling of the people who live there: they respect him and 
 thank him for " boosting " the city. His father left him 
 five millions, so he had a good start, and he has added 
 greatly to it. His yacht is in the Bay here now, and it is 
 a " dream!" It is said to have cost #300,000, and it has 
 a crew of thirty all the time, so you can imagine the cost 
 of its upkeep — and most of this fortune was made in 
 sugar. 
 
 And now let me take you for a rest (before starting with 
 you sight-seeing) over to Coronado, where we are stay- 
 ing. It is the finest suburb of San Diego. It is just 
 across the Bay, and though situated on a peninsula, is 
 readily accessible by ferry. Because of the early establish- 
 ment of this charmingly beautiful hotel, Del Coronado, 
 the town has grown wonderfully since it was started in 
 1887; it now has a population of 3500. The principal at- 
 tractions are: The sight of the sea and the bay at the 
 same time, with a sandy stretch between, known as "Silver 
 Strand" — This is a very fine hotel (Spreckles owns it!); 
 and the famous tent city along the beach, which has be- 
 tween 3000 and 4000 tenants. These tents are more pop- 
 ular than houses, and are nicely equipped for housekeep- 
 ing. They rent by the week, the month, or the season. 
 Tent city has its own attractions: a dancing pavilion, a 
 swimming pool, and the usual resort sports. It is a 
 great sight on Sunday when, in addition to its own resi- 
 dents, are gathered there thousands of San Diego people 
 out for the day. 
 
 The climate here is not like that of Honolulu, but is the 
 closest second we have seen, the difference being largely 
 due to fogs and heavy air night and morning, and if we 
 had not seen our beautiful home first, we would very 
 likely have become future residents of San Diego, or of 
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DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 Coronado — the latter, I think. This hotel employs a 
 man whose business it is to arrange comforts and pleasures 
 for the guests. They try to have some special event each 
 day or evening. There is polo twice a week. There are 
 golf links, but they have no turf, because of the dry cli- 
 mate here — we do not care to play from a cement tee to a 
 mud green, and walk after our balls through mud and 
 stickers after having played on the perfect links of Hono- 
 lulu, so our dream of playing golf here proved to be a 
 "dream" only and we have wakened! 
 
 The palm court around which this house is built forms 
 a picture never to be forgotten. There is a bird cage, 
 about four by ten feet and ten feet high, in which there 
 are thirty or more canaries, and this proves a great at- 
 traction for the children and for grown-ups as well. In 
 the garden are several kinds of palms, hibiscus, vines, 
 flowers, shrubbery, and beautiful flower-beds, while all 
 around the house, in every direction, are gardens of artis- 
 tically arranged flowers and plants. It is the only place 
 that could ever be compared with Del Monte, except that 
 it has not the old trees nor the acreage. I love it here 
 more each day, and rather dread the thought of soon 
 going away from it to live between brick and stone walls, 
 to walk on dirty city streets, and, above all, horrors! to 
 wear dark clothes and black shoes. I often think that if 
 only large cities could have every one dressed in white 
 life would be more cheerful and bright for those who are 
 unfortunate, are in sorrow, or in ill health. It certainly 
 clears one's mental atmosphere and brightens his en- 
 vironment to see white and bright colors about him, and 
 I have noticed that where it is worn the working-people 
 seem brighter and more cheerful. 
 
 How I rattle on, giving my impressions and thoughts, 
 seemingly forgetting that you have other things to do and 
 
 [126I 
 
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 to think about. But my readers know the one back of 
 the pencil, and I fancy I can hear them say: "Poor dear, 
 she can't help it; she was always a talker, and when she 
 can't do it verbally, down it goes on paper!" so you see 
 you can't have a rest from me, even when I am thousands 
 of miles away. 
 
 On the ocean side of the house here, known as Ocean 
 Terrace, there is a dancing floor built over the sand, 
 and it is a pretty sight to watch the gay colors dis- 
 played there in the afternoon, while some dance and 
 others are seated at tables for tea, and, in addition to 
 this gay display, there are the beautiful colors of the 
 sea right in front. 
 
 At last we have visited an olive-oil factory and olive 
 cannery. Though it is not in operation at this season of 
 the year, we were, nevertheless, shown the process in de- 
 tail, and I have decided against olives in my poor stomach 
 since I know that it is true that they go through a lye 
 solution. And should you think for a moment that olives 
 are naturally salty, let me tell you that it is because they 
 are naturally so flat in taste after this lye solution has re- 
 moved the excess bitter that they are put into brine to 
 make them palatable, and yet so many who cannot learn 
 to eat them say, if only they were not salty they would be 
 fine. One ton of olives makes thirty-five gallons of oil, 
 and the pulp is used for fuel. When you see the "Old 
 Mission" brand, just remember that we have seen the 
 factory and know the proprietors, who are very dear 
 friends of the Bishop's secretary, Miss Davis, whom you 
 will remember that we had at our home after her opera- 
 tion in Honolulu. You will be interested to know that 
 she says that in her weak condition she felt "abused" in 
 the other two homes where she was entertained after we 
 left, because they did not know how to take the care of 
 [127] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 her that she had received while with us — this was due, in 
 one case, to not enough quiet, and in the other to a feel- 
 ing on her part that she must not appear stupid, but brace 
 up, and / know you can't do that all the time when so 
 weak. Then, too, the other homes were miles from the 
 beach, and she loved that, and the quiet of our home. 
 When the Bishop found that she was not in condition to 
 return to her desk, he insisted that she come home for 
 the summer, and she came, and now looks like another 
 person. She is to be with us at The Stewart in San Fran- 
 cisco next Tuesday, and we are to see her off on the ship 
 next Wednesday. When we called on her here, — and 
 she didn't even know where we were, — you should have 
 heard her shout of joy: "Oh! it is Mr. and Mrs. Baird, 
 how happy I am to see you!" You might have supposed 
 we had known her all her life. She is a charming girl, 
 and much beloved here as well as in Honolulu. 
 
 We have very much enjoyed seeing the old Spanish resi- 
 dence now known as "The Marriage Place of Ramona," 
 because of the reference made to it in Helen Hunt Jack- 
 son's story, "Ramona." The exterior of the house is 
 most unattractive, and it is a great surprise, upon enter- 
 ing, to see before you a court garden, such as the old 
 Spanish and other ancient European houses had. The 
 house is in cloister style, the rooms being built around 
 the court. There are collected here many curios and 
 relics, and, of course, things for sale. There is a family in 
 charge, and the grounds are in beautiful condition. 
 
 Our ride out on Point Loma was quite a revelation of 
 the beautiful setting of San Diego and Coronado. The 
 view from up there is almost unlimited, and one can ap- 
 preciate the real beauty of the harbor, with its Fort Rose- 
 crans, its coaling station, Ballast Point, Quarantine Sta- 
 tion, the sea, and, beyond, the silver strand, which is the 
 
 [128] 
 
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 stretch of sand having the $14,000 boulevard across it, 
 so that the trip to Mexico can be made that way. 
 
 On Point Loma there is a very extensive Theosophical 
 Society settlement, with five college buildings, homes, 
 library, and large ranch lands. 
 
 The wireless station on the Point is said to have the 
 record for the longest distance message, the distance being 
 7000 miles. 
 
 On our first Sunday here we went over to San Diego to 
 St. Paul's Church, which was built by Bishop Restarick 
 in the beginning of his first work here, thirty-one years 
 ago. You may not know that he started the church here 
 and had been with it twenty years when called to the 
 Bishopric of Honolulu, or really of the Hawaiian Islands. 
 We enjoyed the service, and met the rector, Mr. Barnes, 
 who is the Bishop's successor. 
 
 We thoroughly enjoyed a lecture given one evening by 
 a representative of the Santa Fe railroad, on the Yosemite 
 and the Grand Canyon. I was very glad to learn that 
 these lectures are to be given also in the East; perhaps 
 they will help to lead people not to go to Europe sight- 
 seeing all their lives and fail to see marvels in their own 
 country, such as cannot be duplicated anywhere in the 
 world. The more I see of the ignorance of our American 
 people about their own country, and hear them boast of 
 the number of times they have crossed the Atlantic, the 
 more I feel the need of advertising or of some effort being 
 made to induce eastern people to cross the continent, in- 
 stead of the ocean. The same thing applies to our knowl- 
 edge of Honolulu; as, for instance, we ourselves, who were 
 ignorant enough of real conditions there, to go expecting 
 to see merely some black people and some scenery! 
 Since becoming enlightened ourselves, we have been 
 amused at the remarks in many of the letters from our 
 [ 129 ] 9 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 home city; for instance this: "Surprised, John, to hear 
 that you are going to live among the Hottentots, but there 
 is no accounting for tastes!" Though that is the most 
 ridiculous speech of all, there are many other comments 
 that are very amusing to those who have come to know 
 this heavenly country. The people out here all do know 
 something of it, and most of them deplore the fact that 
 they can't live there. Only this morning we heard that 
 when Mr. Van Rensaleer, of Philadelphia, was asked 
 where he thought was the best place in the world to live, 
 he replied, "Honolulu" — and you all know how he has 
 traveled, having opportunity to see the whole world, 
 practically. Here I am off "boosting" again! but "out 
 of the abundance of the heart the mouth speaketh!" 
 
 We had a nice auto trip out to one of the many sea- 
 shore resorts, called La Jolla (Hoya), where there are 
 some natural caves washed out by the sea. An old German 
 decided to make an entrance to them from the land, so 
 seven men spent seven months making stairs through 
 limestone to accomplish this result. The depth of the 
 stairway is 80 feet, and there are 136 steps. This cave is 
 seventy-nine feet long. The other caves have to be en- 
 tered by boat, or else only at very low tide. 
 
 The natural markings in the rocks here are very inter- 
 esting: the shape of a fish can be plainly traced, also a 
 sheep, an alligator, an oyster, a face and head, and other 
 things not so distinctly outlined. Besides this, the rock 
 shows beautiful shadings of color, a result of the vege- 
 table and mineral strata, which, I believe, it is considered 
 quite phenomenal to find lying so close to each other. 
 
 And now for a real fish story — they were not caught 
 with a silver hook either! We went out (just we two and 
 no more, except the captain) eighteen miles south of here. 
 We were then out to the Coronado Islands, which lie 
 
 [ 130 1 
 
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 in Mexican waters. Our boat was a gasoline launch, 
 twenty-nine feet long, which at her best made only nine 
 miles an hour. We used no bait except the silver-like 
 pieces of metal used to attract; all the work was done by 
 two rods and by trolling, and we landed nineteen fish, 
 weighing 150 pounds, in about four hours. The largest 
 single one weighed twenty pounds; the others weighed 
 sixteen pounds, twelve, eight, and less. They were 
 fighters, too, and it took some time to land them in the 
 boat after we had a strike. The marvel is, first: how 
 much weight and force can be borne by the frail-looking 
 rods, and, second, why fishermen catching thirty-five and 
 fifty pound tuna and other such fish are not pulled out of 
 the boat by them, for if one is half a sport, he won't let 
 go, no matter how hard they pull, and I know that several 
 times I had to brace my feet, as heavy as I am — though 
 I have long since found out that weight of body does not 
 necessarily imply strength. Our catch included barra- 
 cuda, yellow tail, two kinds of bass, and albacore — all 
 strange to you, I think, except bass. We came home quite 
 willing to be met at the wharf by inquiring strangers who 
 came down to ask: "Did you have any luck?" "Yes, 
 just a little, though none of the coveted tuna." When 
 they were all hung up for view, as per the picture you have 
 seen, we were the recipients of all kinds of congratulations, 
 I assure you. If you have asked who is our friend in the 
 picture shading her eyes, I will here inform you she is the 
 dutiful helpmate of the captain, and you should see her 
 beaming face on the dock as she calls out: "Can I help 
 you, dearie?" and then see her as she catches the rope, 
 loops and ties it, and starts in like a man to fix things up. 
 
 A boatman's life isn't all fun, and long hours fall to 
 their lot. This one told me how he had been promised 
 by a Jap fisherman that if he was around when he came 
 [131] 
 
DURING OUR STAY IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 in he could buy some live sardines for Tuna bait; so 
 the poor man, though he did not get through to go to bed 
 until ten thirty, not sleeping until eleven, got up at 2 
 A. m. to be at the appointed place, and then, after waiting 
 a long time, when the other boat came in he was informed 
 that there were none for sale! When he could get back 
 home it was time to fix up his boat ready for an early 
 start, for some people go out before six in the morning. 
 
 These islands I have mentioned are only one and two 
 miles long, and are uninhabited except by seals, pelicans, 
 and gulls, but the unusual strata in their formation, the 
 natural amber found there, and these live animals, make 
 the islands places of great beauty. 
 
 We were very sorry not to know people here so as to 
 share with them our spoils. We decided to ship them to 
 San Francisco to two friends there, and to Riverside to 
 another friend there, but we were dissuaded from doing 
 so by the hotel men, who assured us that, because of poor 
 packing facilities, they could not be put up so as to carry; 
 hence they, and not our friends, reaped the benefit of our 
 sport — except for the barracuda, which we ate broiled 
 for dinner, and a bass for breakfast, and some we sent to 
 an acquaintance in San Diego. 
 
 And now we are taking you to Mexico — yes, it is per- 
 fectly safe, and you will be glad you went, for it is a very 
 pleasant ride by auto to the little town of Tia Juana, which 
 is not much larger than the Custom House and Inspection 
 Office that you must pass to get across the border. There 
 they inspect for firearms by a Mexican, and for goods pur- 
 chased by United States customs officers, who are rigid 
 and strict in enforcing the rule that no one person shall 
 carry out more than one dollar's worth free. When your 
 purchase is more than the "dollar," you forfeit that and 
 pay duty on the whole amount. But they were very 
 
 [132I 
 
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 
 
 civil, and I had no possible trouble — though I did not 
 buy a whole lot. 
 
 You are told by Americans that there are seventy-three 
 inhabitants here, and by natives that there are 300. 
 They boast four restaurants and thirteen saloons. 
 
 Now, in concluding this letter, I am concluding the 
 series, and cannot say when, if ever, I shall be writing you 
 another travel letter. 
 
 We plan to leave Coronado August 24th, to leave San 
 Francisco August 31st. We stop on our way east in 
 Boise, Idaho, to visit Bishop Funsten; in Cheyenne, 
 Wyoming, to visit Bishop Thomas; in Chicago, to visit 
 various friends and rest; in Cleveland, to visit; and to 
 reach the Philadelphia home on September 15th — and 
 so, at the close of our nearly eight months' trip together, 
 I thank you for your interest. Mizpah! 
 
 [133] 
 
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