II 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 DAVIS 
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 J. Dewey Long 
 
<Tt Dewey Long 
 
KING'S SERIES IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 HANDBOOK 
 
 IN 
 
 WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 FOR TEACHERS AND NORMAL SCHOOLS 
 BY 
 
 CHARLES A. KING 
 
 DIRECTOR OF MANUAL TRAINING 
 EASTERN HIGH SCHOOL, BAY CITY, MICHIGAN 
 
 NEW YORK : CINCINNATI : CHICAGO 
 
 AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY 
 
KING'S SERIES IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 ELEMENTS OF WOODWORK 
 ELEMENTS OF CONSTRUCTION 
 CONSTRUCTIVE CARPENTRY 
 INSIDE FINISHING 
 HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 COPYRIGHT, 11)11, BY 
 CHARLES A. KING. 
 
 ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL, LONDON 
 w. P. i 
 
PREFACE TO THE SERIES 
 
 THIS series consists of five volumes, four of which are intended 
 as textbooks for pupils in manual-training, industrial, trade, tech- 
 nical, or normal schools. The fifth book of the series, the " Hand- 
 Ix)ok in Woodwork and Carpentry," is for the use of teachers anc 
 of normal students who expect to teach the subjects treated in the 
 other four volumes. 
 
 Of the pupils' volumes, the first two, " Elements of Woodwork ' 
 and " Elements of Construction," are adapted to the needs of stu 
 dents in manual-training schools, or in any institution in whicl 
 elementary woodwork is taught, whether as purely educationa 
 handwork, or as preparatory to a high, or trade, school course ii 
 carpentry or vocational training. 
 
 The volumes " Constructive Carpentry " and " Inside Finish 
 ing" are planned with special reference to the students of tech 
 nical, industrial, or trade schools, who have passed through th< 
 work of the first two volumes, or their equivalent. The subject 
 treated are those which will be of greatest value" to both the pr,c 
 spective and the finished workman. 
 
 For the many teachers who are obliged to follow a require< 
 course, but who are allowed to introduce supplementary o 
 optional models under certain conditions, and for others wh 
 have more liberty and are able to make such changes as the; 
 see fit, this series will be found perfectly adaptable, regardles 
 of the grades taught. To accomplish this, the material has beei 
 arranged by topics, which may be used by the teacher irrespectiv 
 of the sequence, as each topic has to the greatest extent possibl 
 been treated independently. 
 
vi PREFACE TO THE SERIES 
 
 The author is indebted to Dr. George A. Hubbell, Ph.D., now 
 President of the Lincoln Memorial University, for encouragement 
 and advice in preparing for and planning the series, and to 
 George R. Swain, Principal of the Eastern High School of Bay 
 City, Michigan, for valuable aid in revising the manuscript. 
 
 Acknowledgment is due various educational and trade periodi- 
 cals, and the publications of the United States Departments of 
 Education and of Forestry, for the helpful suggestions that the 
 author has gleaned from their pages. 
 
 CHARLES A. KING. 
 BAY CITY, MICHIGAN. 
 
PREFACE TO HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 AND NORMAL SCHOOLS 
 
 THE matter contained in this .volume is arranged with special 
 reference to its value to the teacher of manual training, wood- 
 work, or carpentry, and to the normal student preparing to teach 
 these subjects. To the latter, it offers many suggestions for the 
 discussion of equipment and courses, and of conditions that 
 exist in the classroom. It gives also a preview of some of the 
 obstacles met in leading pupils in the way of manual righteous- 
 ness, and suggests methods of surmounting these obstacles. 
 
 The contents of Chapters I and II, although separated into 
 manual training and carpentry, may be applied to the teaching 
 of either subject or both. A few items mentioned in Chapter II, 
 however, may be omitted in teaching a class in educational manual 
 training, as they apply entirely to carpentry or joinery. It would 
 be unwise, for example, to spend time upon the steel square, 
 estimating, or extended practice in sawfiling, as these are subjects 
 for the prospective workman. 
 
 While the Suggestive Courses are courses in woodwork, the 
 hints and discussions may be easily adapted to the teaching of 
 any branch of handwork, since classroom conditions vary no more 
 in the different branches of manual training than in the different 
 branches of academic studies. 
 
 The sketches of models are intended to be only suggestive 
 as to dimensions and degree of difficulty, leaving it to the student 
 to work out details and to make any changes that his taste may 
 dictate. 
 
 In the courses are included some of tire standard models which 
 have been in use in manual-training schools for years, but many 
 of the models have been designed and worked out in the class- 
 room in preparation for this particular work. 
 
 vii 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CHAPTER I. TEACHING HINTS : MANUAL TRAINING. Exercises in 
 the joints ; Value of large models ; Sequence of tools ; New tools ; 
 Importance of the model; Individual work; Selection of models; 
 Working drawings ; Stock cutting ....... 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. TEACHING HINTS : CARPENTRY AND JOINERY. Relation 
 of Chapters I and II ; Theory ; Joints and exercises ; Construction ; 
 The blackboard ; Treatment of facts ; Written exercises ; Position ; 
 Shingling ; Arithmetic ; The steel square ; Advanced class ; Use of 
 tools ; Tendencies to be guarded against ; Smoothing and sand- 
 papering ; Sa willing ; Gluing ; Estimating 10 
 
 CHAPTER III. EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES. The equipment ; Econom- 
 ical equipment ; Comparison of tools ; Care of equipment ; Sup- 
 plies ; Lists of equipment 21 
 
 CHAPTER IV. SUGGESTIVE COURSES. Grading of exercises ; Time 
 necessary for completion ; Use of outlined courses ; Research and 
 written exercises : Tests and examinations ; References to other 
 volumes ; Suggestive courses in manual training ; Suggestive trade 
 courses in carpentry ......... 40 
 
 CHAPTER V. SPECIAL TEACHING HINTS AND SUGGESTIVE DESIGNS. 
 
 New subjects ; Stock cutting ; Making the model ; Tendencies to 
 be corrected ; Suggestive designs : 
 
 1. Plant label 11. Rule 
 
 2. Key tag 12. Plant stand. Octagonal 
 
 3. Wedge 13. Tool rack 
 
 4. Flower stick 14. Bench hook 
 
 5. Sandpaper block 15. Cutting board 
 
 6. Pencil sharpener 16. Sand shovel 
 
 7. Silk winder 17. Disli drainer 
 
 8. Fishline winder 18. Coat hanger 
 
 9. Hat rack 10. Key rack 
 10. Table mat 20. Blotting pad 
 
 ix 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 21. 
 
 Bracket shelf 
 
 34. Picture frame 
 
 
 22. 
 23. 
 
 Pen tray 
 Plant stand Halved 
 
 35. Folding towel rack 
 36. Letter box 
 
 
 24. 
 
 Bird house 
 
 37. Foot rest 
 
 
 25. 
 
 Glove box 
 
 38. Toilet case 
 
 
 26. 
 
 27. 
 28. 
 29. 
 
 Rod towel rack 
 Corner shelf 
 Wall pocket 
 Sleeve board 
 
 39. Drawing board 
 40. T square 
 41. Dovetailed bookrack 
 42. Plate rack 
 
 
 30. 
 
 Cart 
 
 43. Screen frame 
 
 
 31. 
 
 Towel roller 
 
 44. Bookcase 
 
 
 32. 
 
 Knife box 
 
 45. Table 
 
 
 33. 
 
 Paper knife 
 
 46. Detail of table . 
 
 56 
 
 TTER VI. ANSWERS TO ARITHMETIC QUESTIONS IN "ELEMENTS OF 
 CONSTRUCTION" AND IN "INSIDE FINISHING" ..... 
 
 ax 
 
 120 
 127 
 
HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 TEACHING HINTS. MANUAL TRAINING 
 
 Exercises in the joints. Students in the sixth, seventh, 
 eighth, and ninth grades of manual-training work do 
 not need to follow the exercises in the joints given in 
 " Elements of Construction" so closely as does the stu- 
 dent of carpentry. The manual-training student should, 
 however, learn the principles of construction of the joints, 
 together with something of then- application and use, and 
 the reasons why one particular type of joint is better 
 adapted to certain uses than are .others. He should also 
 master the tool processes required in making a model 
 containing the form of construction illustrated by an 
 exercise, before he undertakes to make the model itself. 
 
 This method is far better than to allow a student to 
 destroy what would be a valuable model, or to finish it by 
 means of less accurate work than the exercises in the in- 
 volved joints would make possible. As he gains skill, 
 the student will of course be able to dispense more and 
 more with this preliminary work. 
 
 In many schools, the students make models of increas- 
 ing difficulty, but much of the work so done is of little 
 value except as an exercise. In some instances, the model 
 
 l 
 
2 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 may be named and may be a useful article, but often it 
 requires quite a stretch of imagination to believe that tjie 
 time spent upon some particular piece of carefully finished 
 work has been spent in the best possible way. The 
 author is convinced by his own work among the students 
 of the above grades, that the time spent in drill and 
 in making a few simple exercises is better invested, pro- 
 vided a definite result is accomplished, the application 
 of which is apparent in making a practicable piece of 
 construction. 
 
 Value of large models. Work upon large models not 
 only interests students more than does work upon small 
 ones, but promotes concentration, a more thoughtful study 
 of details, and care in the use of tools. Judgment also may 
 be developed better by working upon large models than 
 upon many of those used commonly in the grades; this 
 work requires, however, more oversight and a broader 
 knowledge upon the part of the teacher. 
 
 Sequence of tools. Why any one sequence of tools or 
 exercises should be strenuously insisted upon, the author 
 has never been able to discover. There is bound to be a 
 certain amount of awkwardness in beginning to use any 
 new type of tool, which is overcome as the student 
 gains experience and confidence in himself in the use of 
 tools in general. There is no occult reason, for instance, 
 why the use of the jack plane should precede that of the 
 bitbrace, or vice versa, since the beginning and learning 
 processes have to be passed through in either case, and 
 neither depends upon the other. 
 
 The amount of skill necessary to use the jack plane well 
 is unquestionably greater than that necessary to do as 
 good work in boring a hole, but as a rule the jack plane 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 3 
 
 is one of the first tools used. This sequence is as it should 
 be, because the jack plane ordinarily will be used more than 
 the bitbrace; this is not, however, a psychological reason, 
 but one depending solely upon the exigencies of the work. 
 If " logical sequence" were followed, the bitbrace should 
 be used first; but this would require that a series of ab- 
 stract models be made, and in general the devotees of 
 logical sequence are radical upon the question of making 
 anything that cannot be given a name, whether or not it 
 will ever be used. 
 
 The block plane is one of the hardest tools to use effec- 
 tively, but in the courses in which sequence is considered of 
 so much importance, it comes, like the jack plane, quite 
 near the beginning of the work, and for the same rea- 
 son, that the work requires it; if logical sequence were 
 carried out, both these tools should come after the bit- 
 brace, the hammer, and a number of other tools that are 
 easier to use than are the planes. The block plane causes 
 more trouble than do most other tools, because of the 
 splitting off of the corners when planing across end wood. 
 This difficulty is overcome by some teachers by block- 
 planing in a bench hook, which acts as a jack board 
 or shooting board, by which the splitting off of chips is 
 prevented and the work planed square at the same time, 
 regardless of the amount of skill possessed by the student. 
 
 Although this process is entirely mechanical, many 
 teachers who apply methods of this sort at every oppor- 
 tunity wax enthusiastic over the advantages of the pos- 
 session of skill, and the beauties of making the hand 
 perform the desires of the brain. 
 
 The writer is satisfied that more is gained by teaching the 
 most direct methods of obtaining results, than by teaching 
 
4 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 those that make unnecessary labor simply for the sake of 
 practice, which seems the only reason for the existence of 
 certain methods followed by some teachers. The student 
 will learn incidentally to use tools in all necessary ways and 
 under all conditions, the important considerations being 
 that he should (1) comprehend the importance of ac- 
 curacy, (2) acquire the ability to control the tool, and 
 (3) understand the principle upon which it operates. 
 These in general may be as well taught while using the 
 tool in one way as in another; after the student has 
 attained a reasonable degree of proficiency, the tool may 
 be used for any purpose within its scope. 
 
 Some of the school methods of using tools and of obtain- 
 ing results are not, unfortunately, those employed by me- 
 chanics, who by their years of experience learn to use 
 tools intuitively and in the easiest and most effective 
 manner. To this statement, teachers who believe that 
 there is some occult principle involved in the particular 
 methods and sequence in the use of tools that they practice, 
 and in the course of models that they follow, will probably 
 find objection, but the writer contends that there is noth- 
 ing educational in teaching a method that is wrong, and 
 some methods taught will certainly not stand comparison 
 with those of mechanics in grace and ease of motion, effi- 
 ciency, or speed. The best results may not be obtained 
 at first, but in a short time, if correct methods of work are 
 instilled into the pupils from the beginning, there will be 
 better progress. 
 
 New tools. If, in the course of making a new model, 
 a new tool is to be used,, or a new process performed, it 
 should be made the occasion of practice before being ap- 
 plied to the model in hand. The size and the combina- 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 5 
 
 tion of constructive elements should be the basis of the 
 progression, rather than the inventing of models that 
 demand the use of tools in a certain sequence. After 
 the student has learned to use the commonest tools well, 
 he will have little trouble with the tools that are used only 
 occasionally. 
 
 Importance of the model. - - This must not be con- 
 strued as meaning that the model is the important thing. 
 It is of little importance, except as it may indicate the care, 
 thought, and progress of the student who performs the 
 work. The model should be considered by the teacher 
 simply as the means of interesting the pupil, and of giving 
 him an incentive to perform the processes that involve the 
 use of certain tools. The student, however, looks upon 
 the model as the chief end of the work, a conception, 
 which, unfortunately, seems prevalent among nearly all 
 those also who are not directly connected with school 
 work, despite all that has been written and said upon the 
 end and aim of manual training since its inception. 
 
 Individual work. It is not the plan of " Elements 
 of Woodwork" to lay out a course or a series of models 
 for the use of students from their earliest ventures into 
 manual training, as no course can be planned which is 
 the best for all students. A student with natural aptitude 
 for tool work will complete easily a model that another 
 of the same class may not be able to make at all; thus the 
 naturally skillful student loses the opportunity for advance- 
 ment and development. 
 
 Many teachers have not the inclination, and others have 
 not the technical knowledge, to do well the individual 
 work that is necessary if each student's work is planned 
 so that he can work to the best advantage. To do indi- 
 
6 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 vidual work so that each student may receive the best 
 results, even though the student is naturally " handy " 
 and likes to work with tools, requires that the teacher 
 shall have a broader knowledge than can be acquired by 
 a short course at a teachers' training school. The instruc- 
 tion of a poorly prepared teacher, if he departs from the 
 course with which he is familiar, results almost invariably 
 in work which is not built upon correct principles of con- 
 struction. It is not reasonable to expect, as a rule, that 
 a teacher can secure from his class better work than he 
 can do himself; thus the results are false ideas of construc- 
 tion and poor and inaccurate methods. 
 
 Again, in many schools where the teachers realize their 
 dependence upon one particular series of models, there is 
 an ironbound course through which all students are re- 
 quired to go, model after model, in the same sequence, 
 regardless of the different degrees of natural ability that 
 must exist. In consequence, the development of the in- 
 dividual student's natural abilities is but little assisted, 
 and the opportunity of promoting his originality and 
 initiative is too often ignored entirely. This statement 
 may seem severe in its reflections upon some teachers, and 
 it is so, intentionally; but it applies only to those who are 
 deliberately managing their classes to make their work 
 easier, regardless of the effect upon their students, and who 
 could do better if they chose to take the trouble, and 
 to those who, with a slight smattering of knowledge, try to 
 teach manual training because positions in this work are 
 obtained with less difficulty, and often are better paid, 
 than are those in the ordinary branches of academic 
 work. The statement does not apply, however, to teachers 
 who are in the employ of a school board whose only ideal of 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 7 
 
 manual training is that the students shall make some- 
 thing that will please the eye of the board, and of the 
 occasional visitor, in order to prove that their school 
 system is up to date, and who require the teacher to 
 handle with a meager equipment, and in rooms poorly 
 lighted and ventilated, a tilass so large that it is impossible 
 to conduct it properly. The teacher of manual training 
 who has to work under these conditions is obliged to follow 
 a more or less rigid course, since the students must be 
 handled as a whole to the greatest extent possible. 
 
 To do acceptable individual work in the grades, a teacher 
 should not have more than twenty in one class; in high 
 schools, and in technical and industrial schools, where the 
 students are older and, in most cases, have had elementary 
 work, the classes may be larger, a competent teacher 
 being able to handle as many as thirty with satisfactory 
 results. In a large class students may be divided into 
 squads, each of which works upon a model suited to its 
 ability, thereby making it possible to do more nearly 
 individual work. In order to arrange the squads to best 
 advantage, time, judgment, and a thorough knowledge 
 of each pupil's capacity is, of course, necessary. 
 
 Selection of models. A well-equipped manual- training 
 room should have blueprints or drawings of a large num- 
 ber of different designs and models, suitable for the various 
 grades taught, as a reserve upon which to call when the 
 original ideas of the students are not forthcoming or are 
 too elaborate to answer the purpose. 
 
 Many suggestions for models may be procured from 
 published bulletins of various schools, and from stores 
 dealing in supplies for manual-training schools, though 
 much skill is necessary upon the part of the teacher to 
 
8 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TKACIIKHS 
 
 obtain original ideas from the students, based upon the 
 suggestions secured from these sources. 
 
 To assist in the development of original ideas, the teacher 
 should persuade the student to design continually; not only 
 for his own work, but to stimulate his creative faculties. 
 The teacher should suggest only, aiding the student to 
 keep within the bounds of difficulty, and always insisting 
 upon the utmost simplicity of design and construction. 
 The model the student selects should be one that he will 
 feel is worthy of his best energies, but not so difficult that 
 it cannot be made well, nor so intricate or large that he 
 will become tired of it before its completion. 
 
 In the ability to advise in the selection of work for his 
 pupils, and in discriminating between individuals, lie the 
 most important qualifications of the manual-training 
 teacher; and the most difficult part of this aspect of his 
 work is selecting that which will bring out the various 
 forms or shapes, and which will include the use of different 
 tools to furnish change of exercise for the muscles in the 
 several positions in which tools must be used. There 
 should be frequent alternations of straight and curved 
 lines, that the student may learn to know and to detect 
 true form and the laws that govern it, and that he may 
 receive such training of the eye as will enable him to 
 detect any deviation from the desired form. 
 
 Working drawings. Before beginning work upon a 
 model, each student should make a working drawing of 
 it, not only to familiarize himself with the details, but that 
 he may receive a drill in making working drawings and 
 working from them, which will be of great practical use to 
 him, and that he may learn the value of drawing as a 
 means of expression. 
 
IX WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 9 
 
 If the student originates a design, he may need help in 
 putting all that is necessary upon paper, but if he is work- 
 ing from a model already made, he should be required to 
 work with as little assistance as possible. 
 
 Stock cutting. A stock list should be made out for 
 every model, each student working from the plan that he 
 has drawn. After the stock list has been made out, and 
 passed upon by the teacher, the student should lay out 
 the pieces as they are to be cut from the board, but the 
 cutting should not begin until the teacher has approved of 
 the method of getting out the pieces; otherwise much 
 valuable material may be wasted. 
 
 Many teachers prepare the pieces from which the models 
 are to be made, before the class meets. This method has 
 economy to recommend it, both of material and of the time 
 spent in cutting the stock in class, but with much of the 
 work, these advantages will not compensate for the loss 
 of the drill received by the student in planning the most 
 economical way of cutting his own material. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 TEACHING HINTS. CARPENTRY AND JOINERY 
 
 IT will be noticed that the third volume of the series, 
 " Constructive Carpentry/' deals with the working of rough 
 lumber, or construction. It is a quite prevalent belief that 
 because rough lumber is handled, the work must neces- 
 sarily be rough, and therefore require little skill. On the 
 contrary, the utmost skill, and the greatest knowledge, is 
 required in the framing of a building, as a framer should 
 understand all parts of a structure, and have knowledge of 
 as many different kinds of work as possible. 
 
 Relation of Chapters I and II. - - The subjects dis- 
 cussed in the previous chapter may be applied with equal 
 force to the teaching of carpentry, since the future work- 
 man will pass over much the same ground in his elementary 
 work as does the student of manual training. 
 
 Theory. Every student in carpentry should be re- 
 quired to look up in the various books and periodicals 
 to which he has access, the theoretical aspects of each 
 topic outlined in the textbook. These books of reference 
 should be listed by the teacher, who should familiarize 
 himself with the matter in them and catalogue the parts 
 that he needs, before assigning subjects to the students 
 for study. 
 
 Joints and exercises. In " Elements of Construction" 
 the exercises in joints form an important part of the work 
 
 10 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 11 
 
 laid out for the student who intends to complete the course 
 in carpentry, since they illustrate the different forms of 
 construction. The teacher should see that each pupil 
 acquires a thorough knowledge of the principles and the 
 uses of each tool, and at intervals should assign a written 
 exercise reviewing the work passed over. 
 
 It is not necessary that every student should work out 
 every problem, but each member of the class should solve 
 different ones according to his ability and needs. The con- 
 struction and use of each tool should, however, be illus- 
 trated to the whole class, and its accompanying exercises 
 explained in such a way that each student may be able to 
 give an intelligent demonstration of the same. The joints 
 and the use of the tools involved, should also be made the 
 subjects of written exercises, the writing of which will aid 
 the student in expressing himself intelligently. 
 
 Besides making the joints, one or more supplementary 
 models should be made which will include as far as possible 
 the principles of construction illustrated by the preceding 
 exercises. As in the manual-training classes, the student 
 should design his own supplementary models, assisted by 
 the teacher. 
 
 If the teacher thinks it advisable, the exercises may be 
 entirely dispensed with in the work of individuals who have 
 a high degree of natural aptitude in the use of tools, and 
 the supplementary work may be substituted. The extent 
 to which this may be done depends much upon the teacher's 
 judgment and tact, since the students generally do not 
 enjoy the exercises so much as the work to which they lead, 
 and unless the teacher feels that the reasons for this sort of 
 discrimination are exceedingly well founded and apparent, 
 a great difference should not be made. As the class in 
 
12 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR. TEACHERS 
 
 carpentry in an industrial school consists often of students 
 of a wide range of ages, the above difference in the work 
 frequently may be carried out with profit to the individuals. 
 
 Construction. At the proper place in the course, 
 the students should build a flight of stairs, making them 
 one quarter or one half size. This model flight should 
 contain all the section posts, and the different sections 
 should be constructed by various methods. 
 
 In teaching the construction of a frame building, a model 
 should be built upon a small scale, as in stair building, 
 several students working upon it. One as large as prac- 
 ticable may be built the first time, and the same material 
 used by successive classes; the next house may be made 
 somewhat smaller in its dimensions, if desired, but if the 
 same material is used in different parts of the house, 
 some of the longer pieces will have to be made new each 
 time, and as there is always a demand for small pieces in 
 a manual-training class, there will not be much waste. 
 Another satisfactory method is to require each student 
 to build a small house, using the scale of 3" to 1', which 
 allows a 2" x 4" piece to be \" x 1", and in measuring the 
 lengths of pieces, the scale of 1" to 1'. This is also good 
 practice for the student in working from one scale to another. 
 
 The house built should contain all the problems used in 
 building a house with square angles, a house with an 
 ell or addition upon the side or back joined to the main 
 house with a valley in the roof, and hips upon the corners 
 of the main house, as described in Topic 53 E, " Construc- 
 tive Carpentry," will contain the most essential framing 
 problems that the carpenter has to solve. 
 
 The blackboard. Abundance of blackboard space is 
 an essential part of the equipment of a room in which 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 13 
 
 carpentry, and in fact any form of tool work, is taught; 
 and it should be used freely in demonstrations by means of 
 diagrams, since the students should become familiar with 
 methods of sketching and with working from sketches, 
 and also should acquire facility in explaining their own 
 thoughts graphically, as this is an important part of the 
 training of a workman. 
 
 Treatment of facts. Facts in manual training, as in 
 any other subject, should be impressed upon the student 
 by comparisons, frequent reviews, tests, and examinations. 
 Skill in the use of the gauge, ripsaw, cutting-off saw, and the 
 planes should be acquired by continuous drill upon waste 
 pieces of wood. After control of the planes has been 
 gained, the student should be required to put his smooth- 
 ing plane in order and to smooth a piece of hard, cross- 
 grained wood to a surface, planing either way of the grain. 
 This will impress upon him the fact that although a piece 
 of wood may be ever so knurly or crossgrained, it is 
 possible to plane it perfectly smooth, if the work is done 
 skillfully. 
 
 The teacher should require the students to locate, upon 
 buildings within easy reach of the school, different forms 
 of construction, such as finish and details, and should ex- 
 plain these forms to the class by diagrams, making the 
 exercise the basis of instruction upon various applications 
 of the same principle. 
 
 As little as possible should be told the students; instead, 
 by drawing out what they have previously learned, and 
 by applying it, the teacher should make them find answers 
 to their own questions. 
 
 Written exercises. - - The course in carpentry should be 
 so arranged that the written exercises may be required 
 
14 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 at times which will not interfere seriously with similar 
 duties of the students in other departments of the school, 
 and at regular stated periods, in order that the student 
 may plan for a definite amount of work to be done 
 each week. The teacher should be careful not to load the 
 students intermittently, as that has a bad effect upon all 
 of their school work. Frequent short written exercises, 
 submitted weekly, are better than long tedious essays, 
 which the average student will slight to the greatest extent 
 possible. The material included under the different topics 
 will offer numerous suggestions for outside reading and 
 research, which the teacher may require of the student. 
 
 Each student should have a notebook devoted entirely 
 to carpentry, in which should be placed all notes, written 
 exercises, and such information as may be gathered from 
 discussions in the class room. Sketches of details of con- 
 struction should be neatly drawn. These notebooks should 
 be kept in the schoolroom, and frequently examined by 
 the teacher and corrected by the pupils. 
 
 Position. - - The teacher should insist upon each stu- 
 dent's maintaining a proper position while at work at 
 the bench, as bad habits acquired at this time are apt to be 
 lasting, with the result that there are many round-should- 
 ered or otherwise deformed workmen. The student should 
 acquire the habit of bending from the hips instead of from 
 the shoulders; this will assist in preserving an erect 
 carriage, while if the other habit is acquired, he will be 
 permanently round-shouldered and hollow-chested before 
 middle age. 
 
 The majority of the students will sit down if there is the 
 slightest excuse for so doing; the teacher should prevent 
 this, as it is a great incentive to laziness and to careless 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 15 
 
 habits of work. Drawing and certain kinds of small 
 work may sometimes be performed more advantageously 
 in a sitting position, but aside from drawing there is little 
 work in this series which the student can do as well while 
 sitting. 
 
 Students generally are apt to assume awkward positions 
 of the feet when first attempting bench work, but if the 
 teacher sees to it that this habit is remedied, the student 
 will in a short time naturally take the position in which he 
 can work to the best advantage. 
 
 Shingling. In teaching shingling, it is necessary to 
 have a model roof upon which to work; this should in- 
 clude at least two hips, a valley, and a gable, in order to 
 illustrate the different methods of shingling the various 
 parts of a roof. 
 
 Arithmetic. - - The questions in arithmetic should be 
 divided into lessons of convenient length, and assigned to 
 students at regular stated intervals; they should be so 
 planned as not to conflict with their regular work in math- 
 ematics. In the solution of these problems, the shortest 
 and most practical methods should be used, the student 
 being allowed to use his own methods, provided they are 
 sound and can be demonstrated, even though they may 
 not be found in the textbook in use in the school. 
 
 In practical work the workman falls into short cuts of 
 doing any arithmetic that may be necessary, though of 
 course the methods he uses have to be sound in order to 
 give correct results; it is to develop facility in using 
 figures in the most economical way, therefore, that these 
 questions in arithmetic are given. 
 
 The phraseology in stating the questions is that used 
 by carpenters in speaking of their work; the explanatory 
 
16 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 notes accompanying the questions and the glossary in 
 " Constructive Carpentry " will be found of assistance. 
 
 If necessary, square and cube root may be taught from 
 any good textbook; in fractions, however, the student 
 should have had, before entering the work, sufficient in- 
 struction to give him a good working knowledge of this 
 subject, the questions being intended simply to famil- 
 iarize him with the daily problems of the carpenter. The 
 use of tables of circumferences and areas of circles also 
 should be taught, but as these are published in so many 
 manufacturers' catalogues and in other easily accessible 
 places, they are not made a part of this series. Formu- 
 las may be taught by the use of algebraic symbols, which 
 are not at all difficult to master, as any student having 
 the above-mentioned knowledge of arithmetic, and know- 
 ing how to work square root, can by a little application 
 solve the formulas given in this book, and also those 
 published in trade papers. 
 
 The steel square. - - This part of the work requires the 
 closest application and the most comprehensive knowledge 
 of construction. A thorough drill in the use of the steel 
 square should be given in the different problems, which will 
 demand the construction of model roofs, working to the 
 scale of 1" to 1', as previously described. Applying this 
 method, a roof 18' x 30' would be 18" x 30" at the outside 
 of the plate, which is a convenient size for this purpose. 
 
 There are other ways of obtaining pitches, angles, 
 and lengths of rafters, easier in some instances than those 
 taught in this series, and many carpenters have a rule for 
 each separate pitch ; but this is confusing to a class, there- 
 fore the formulas given in " Constructive Carpentry " are 
 adaptable to roofs of all pitches and dimensions. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 17 
 
 Advanced class. The teacher of the advanced class 
 should take his students to visit buildings in various stages 
 of construction, and should repeat the visit periodically 
 as the work progresses, requiring the students to hand in 
 written exercises treating of the foundations, framing, 
 finishing, painting, heating, etc. The pupils should notice v 
 also the progress of the building in a given time, the num- 
 ber of men employed, the peculiarities of construction or 
 arrangement, and any feature which is out of the ordinary, 
 or which is intended to adapt the building to some special 
 purpose. 
 
 The class may all write upon the same subject, or each 
 one may take a special part. When the papers are read 
 before the class, encourage criticism and discussion. 
 
 Use of tools. As soon as the class begins upon its first 
 work, the use of each tool, its construction, and any new 
 process or materials should be made the subject of a short 
 talk and demonstration; this, in fact, should be the pro- 
 gram when any new tool is used for the first time, using 
 the topics in " Elements of Woodwork" or " Elements of 
 Construction " as the basis of such an exercise. The 
 teacher should also guide the pupils to further research 
 upon the subject of tools. The methods of using and 
 adjusting tools for different woods and for the various 
 kinds of work should be discussed fully, each student being 
 required to follow the teacher step by step with his own 
 tools, as far as it is practicable to do so. 
 
 Tendencies to be guarded against. - - The teacher will 
 save himself much trouble, and insure better work upon the 
 part of the class, if he insists upon the use of the knife in 
 marking all places where a close fit is desired. Most 
 students will use the pencil in places where only a knife 
 
18 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 should be used; consequently, it is wise to take the pencils 
 away from all the students when they are doing work which 
 requires accuracy, as it is the most peaceable way to pre- 
 vent their use. It takes time, and often involves as well the 
 destruction of considerable work, before the class realizes 
 that there is but one point which is accurate, and that the 
 slightest deviation from that point results in poor work. 
 The indiscriminate use of the pencil also should be pre- 
 vented, or it will in many places cause a decided blemish. 
 Many students will not hesitate to draw their pencils 
 across the surface of a nicely smoothed and sandpapered 
 piece of wood, but are surprised to discover that perhaps 
 they may have to work half an hour to resmooth the wood 
 and remove the results of the thoughtlessness of a second. 
 The best way is to bar the use of the lead pencil as much 
 as possible. 
 
 Another peculiar characteristic of students in general, is 
 that they will not use a plane, if a rasp, sandpaper, spoke- 
 shave, or any other tool can be made to answer. The 
 majority will at first prefer to work with a piece of sand- 
 paper for half an hour, when a couple of minutes' work with 
 a smoothing plane followed by sandpaper will accomplish 
 the desired result in a much easier and more satisfactory 
 manner. Therefore the teacher should watch to see that 
 the plane is used and all necessary cutting done, and 
 should inspect the work carefully, before the scraper or 
 sandpaper is allowed to touch it, as the surface of a piece 
 of wood filled with the grit from sandpaper will quickly 
 dull the edge of any tool that touches it afterward. 
 
 Smoothing and sandpapering. Sandpaper should be 
 torn into pieces of convenient size, say about one eighth of 
 a sheet, and kept by the teacher, who should give it out 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 19 
 
 as it is needed, requiring that all worn pieces should be 
 returned to him. In this way the teacher may keep track 
 of the entire supply, and be sure that none is used before 
 the work is ready for it. After the class has learned the 
 danger of using sandpaper indiscriminately, such vigilance 
 will be unnecessary. 
 
 Most students in working upon a model that cannot be 
 smoothed after it is put together, will need to be watched 
 carefully, or the model will have to be taken apart before 
 it can be smoothed. The best results are obtained by an 
 ironbound rule that two pieces shall not be fastened to- 
 gether until the teacher has said that they are ready. Do 
 not hesitate to require that an entire model shall be de- 
 stroyed in order to enforce a matter of this sort; this may 
 have to be done once in a while, but rarely twice with 
 members of the same class. 
 
 Saw filing. Saw filing should extend throughout the 
 entire course after the first lessons, and as much oppor- 
 tunity as possible should be given for each student to 
 obtain experience, as a sufficient degree of skill can be 
 acquired only by careful practice. The students should 
 be encouraged to bring saws from home, or those of their 
 neighbors, since where all the students use the same 
 equipment of saws, it is hardly fair that these should be 
 kept in order by any one but an expert. 
 
 Gluing. Set apart one place in the shop for gluing. 
 Keep handscrews and clamps there, and insist that all 
 gluing shall be done in that place, otherwise glue will be 
 dropped and smeared in all parts of the shop. Do not allow 
 glue to be used so near the end of the class period that the 
 work cannot be done properly, as some students will get 
 the glue on, and, if the bell rings, will go off and leave it, 
 
20 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS. 
 
 thus destroying the work, if the teacher does not discover 
 it in time to correct the matter. 
 
 Estimating. - - The teacher should select a small, simple 
 house for the students to estimate upon. He should 
 either secure a copy of the original plans, make a set him- 
 self, or have the students make a set as part of their 
 mechanical drawing work. These plans should be used in 
 taking off quantities. 
 
 If possible, a copy of the original stock bill and esti- 
 mates should be secured, as they may be used for com- 
 parison with the work of the students. If this is not possi- 
 ble, the teacher should make a stock bill and estimate the 
 cost, using the data given in " Inside Finishing," Chapter 
 VII, and the local prices. 
 
 A careful study and review of this work is essential, all 
 the class working upon the same house. 
 
 Estimating of small details, cases, or any convenient 
 pieces of work should be practiced through the entire 
 course in carpentry. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES 
 
 The equipment. -- The equipment for the woodwork, 
 or carpenter's, shop consists of a complete set of the usual 
 cutting tools for each boy, which he should be required to 
 keep in order and at all times ready for use or inspection. 
 This method of equipping a shop requires that each bench 
 should have a set of drawers or a closet in which the 
 tools of each student may be kept under lock and key. 
 
 Aside from the cutting tools, are the try-square, ruk, 
 hammer, etc., which need no special care. In some schools 
 these are included in each student's equipment, but in 
 others there is one set of these for each bench, which is 
 used by all the students who use the bench, the edge tools 
 being kept guardedly for each individual student. 
 
 Besides the bench equiqment, there should be a set of 
 tools for general use, which should include all the different 
 sizes of bits, chisels, etc., and other tools which will be used 
 only occasionally. These should be kept in racks which 
 they will just fill, so that the teacher may with a glance 
 detect a vacant space, and hold the class until the missing 
 tool is in its place. 
 
 Economical equipment. In schdols where it is neces- 
 sary to use economy in purchasing the equipment, there 
 may be a set of tools for each bench, which will be used 
 by all the classes. This method of equipping a shop should 
 
 21 
 
22 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 be avoided if it is possible, as it is far better that each 
 student should have his own tools, for which he may be 
 held responsible, which is practicable to but a limited ex- 
 tent, if all classes use the same equipment. 
 
 Comparisons of tools. We will discuss here the rea- 
 sons why certain forms of tools have been recommended 
 instead of others. 
 
 The iron planes are listed because they are easier to ad- 
 just and to use. A wooden plane is heavy and clumsy, 
 and for young students especially unsuitable, as their 
 hands are not large enough to grasp and to control it 
 properly. Another advantage of iron planes is that they 
 are kept in order more easily, as the face holds its shape 
 under conditions which would cause enough change to the 
 face of a wooden plane to require its re jointing. An iron 
 plane also lies down, or " hugs the wood" closer than does 
 a wooden plane, and is for that reason preferred by many. 
 Equally as good work may be done with one type of plane 
 as with the other. 
 
 The knuckle-joint block plane is better designed than 
 are some other forms, because the lever that keeps the iron 
 in place is more positive in its action, and holds the 
 iron more firmly. If the plane falls from the bench, or is 
 dropped, the grip, or the top of the cap lever, is not so 
 apt to break as if it were of one piece of light cast iron. 
 
 If some manufacturer should make a form of gauge 
 which had no graduations upon it, he would find a ready 
 sale for it among manual- training schools, because unless 
 the scratcher .is exactly opposite the beginning of the grad- 
 uations, the entire rule is inaccurate. However accurately 
 the point may be placed originally, it will be out of place 
 after the gauge has been in use a short time and different 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 23 
 
 students have endeavored to satisfy their curiosity regard- 
 ing its construction. 
 
 The form of bitbrace in which the jaws are tightened by 
 a thumb-screw instead of by a grip nut is best adapted to 
 the use of manual-training classes, for the reason that the 
 only part to be lost is the screw that sets up the jaws. In 
 the common form of brace, that which grips the bit by 
 the tightening of a grip nut which forces the jaws together 
 until the bit is held firmly, there are three parts, which 
 are apt to be lost by the attempts of the students to study 
 the tool's construction. Bitbraces of small swing should 
 be selected, as they are better adapted to the small bits 
 that are generally used in manual-training classes, though 
 there should be two or more braces of the larger sizes for 
 occasional use. 
 
 In purchasing try-squares, secure, if possible, those upon 
 which there are no graduations, because the average stu- 
 dent will use his try-square as a rule, which is awkward, 
 especially after the tool has been in use a considerable 
 time, when it is much more difficult to read the marks 
 than when it is new, and at all times it is more difficult 
 than to read a rule. 
 
 A 24' ' straight rule is better than a folding rule for sev- 
 eral reasons; the chief of which is, perhaps, that it is 
 not easy for the student to drop a straight rule into his 
 pocket and carry it off. Neither is there the temptation 
 with a straight rule, that there is with a four- or two-fold 
 rule, to see how far it can be bent without breaking, nor is 
 it so apt to be broken by falling open on the floor and 
 being stepped upon. 
 
 The type of auger bit known as the " Jennings " is per- 
 haps the most satisfactory for the use of manual-training 
 
24 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 schools, as the shape of its worm, its cutters, and the 
 smoothness of the finish of the twist, in the best makes, 
 all aid in making it smooth-running and clean-cutting. 
 The cheaper grades of the tool are not satisfactory in 
 finish or in ease of working, nor will they stand boring 
 more than a very few holes in oak or in other hard woods. 
 
 The bell-faced claw hammer is more satisfactory than the 
 older flat-faced pattern. Its face being slightly convex, it 
 is not so apt to bruise the wood badly if the nail is missed, 
 and in outside finishing and in common work the nail may 
 be driven a little below the surface of the wood without 
 the use of a nail set. In general, the older pattern has not 
 the long neck of the bell-faced hammer, which extends 
 upon the handle far enough to be valuable in strengthen- 
 ing the connection between them, and which allows a 
 much greater strain upon the handle in pulling a nail than 
 if the neck were not a part of the head. More skill is 
 required in using a bell-faced hammer than one of the 
 flat-faced type. 
 
 For a manual-training class, the divisions of the edges of 
 the steel square are not important, as the use of the tool 
 will be that of a large try-square, but if ihe class is studying 
 roof construction, it will be of great advantage if the 
 squares have the octagon, brace, and lumber measures on 
 them, and still more advantageous if one edge is divided 
 into 12ths of an inch which will be used as a scale of I" to 
 1', in laying out the angles and lengths of rafters, braces, 
 and other parts of a building. 
 
 Countersinks that may be taken apart and sharpened 
 are preferred by most workmen. The teacher should be 
 careful that the students do not use a wooden countersink 
 upon metal, as it will be destroyed. The lightning counter- 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 25 
 
 sink is made to stand any metal but tempered steel, and 
 works well upon wood. 
 
 The turning or frame saws are to be preferred to the com- 
 pass saws for cutting curves, because they are not nearly so 
 liable to catch in the wood and break. They can be turned 
 around a very much smaller curve than can the compass 
 saw, though of course they are not so efficient for some 
 purposes. 
 
 In regard to the 10" and 12" handscrews, often it would 
 be better for a great deal of the work if smaller handscrews 
 could be used, but they would soon be broken, as the stu- 
 dents almost invariably apply all the strength that they can, 
 which breaks the screws or jaws if they become cramped. 
 
 The size of cabinet scrapers mentioned will be found gen- 
 erally satisfactory. If much larger, the scraper will be 
 clumsy, and if more than \" smaller, the tool will be too 
 small to be grasped easily. 
 
 In selecting a workbench, it is well to bear in mind that 
 if there is iron in its top, the edges of the tools frequently 
 will come in contact with it. -Benches for the use of 
 manual-training classes have been designed with a piece of 
 iron at the head of the bench, extending across the entire 
 width of the top. This is part of a device to hold a piece 
 of wood between a " dog," which fits into holes in this 
 iron, and the jaws of the vise, either the whole or a part 
 of which may be elevated to hold the other edge of the piece 
 that is to be clamped between them. While this is a 
 very good idea, as it furnishes an efficient substitute for a 
 tail screw, it is not a success for the use of students, as 
 many of them have not the judgment necessary to perform 
 their work and at the same time keep the edges of their 
 tools away from the iron. It seems unavoidable that the 
 
26 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 iron jaws of the modern quick-action vises should be there, 
 hence all that can be done is to guard against allowing the 
 edges of the tools to come in contact with them; however, 
 as the vises are upon the edge of the bench, this is not so 
 difficult to prevent. 
 
 In ordering an equipment, it is wise to include in the 
 order a few of the small adjusting screws and other parts 
 that are likely to become lost or broken; for instance, the 
 screws of wing compasses, bevels, saw handles, throat and 
 adjusting screws, and levers of block planes; also knobs, 
 handles, and their screws, for the iron bench planes, shoes 
 for gauges, cutters, caps, and set screws for spokeshaves, 
 chisel handles, etc. 
 
 In selecting tools, it is well to be sure that they are 
 uniform in design, for if there are several different styles 
 of tools, the problem of keeping them in repair becomes 
 more serious. 
 
 Care of equipment. Usually the teacher himself is 
 obliged to keep the tools in order at first, if more than one 
 class uses them, as it takes time for the new student to 
 realize that nothing is gained, and a great deal lost, by 
 working with dull tools. Each beginner will have to be 
 watched carefully until he discovers that it is to his ad- 
 vantage to keep his tools in order, and will voluntarily 
 take time to sharpen them. 
 
 While the class as a whole should see the demonstration 
 of tool sharpening, it will be necessary in most cases to 
 give individual instruction, otherwise the tools will rarely 
 be in condition to do satisfactory work. Unless the teacher 
 constantly guards against it, the older classes will be 
 obliged to do most of the sharpening, as the members of 
 the beginning class will not do it unless they are made to. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 27 
 
 At all events, the equipment should be kept continually 
 in the highest state of efficiency. 
 
 Teachers of the languages and of mathematics and 
 sciences spend much of their time outside of school in 
 correcting papers, and generally think that the teacher of 
 manual training has much more leisure time than they 
 have; but if the latter keeps ahead of his work, and sees 
 that his tools are in perfect condition, there will be little 
 reason to envy him on this score. 
 
 In the care of tools it is well to have stated times for 
 giving the entire equipment a thorough overhauling in 
 order to be sure that the adjusting mechanism is working 
 as it should, and that the cutters are ground and sharpened 
 properly. The frequency of these times depends upon 
 the faculty of the teacher to impart to his pupils the in- 
 clination and the ability to care for their own tools. If a 
 school has been equipped upon the basis of the strictest 
 economy, and all classes have to use the same edge tools, it 
 is not wise to depend upon the students to keep all the 
 tools in good order. Unless the' teacher gives them his 
 personal attention frequently, the temptation to use tools 
 that have been sharpened by others will prove irresistible 
 to many students. This is discouraging to a boy who 
 would naturally keep his tools in good order, and he him- 
 self is apt to fall into the same bad habit. Of course this 
 may be prevented to a certain extent, but unless there is an 
 individual equipment of cutting tools for each student, the 
 teacher may be sure that there is more or less of this bor- 
 rowing being done all the time, and he should be careful, 
 in his endeavors to prevent it, not to develop a system of 
 "nagging." 
 
 It is the custom of some teachers to send all tools that 
 
28 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 need grinding, and saws that need filing, to a shop where 
 the work is done by an expert. One reason for doing this 
 is that the teacher does not have the time to do it as it 
 should be done. Another reason is, that unless the grind- 
 stone is run by power, it will need some one to turn it, 
 and even with power, the grinding of tools on a grindstone 
 is tedious work at best. Despite the fact that there is a 
 strong prejudice against using an emery wheel for the 
 purpose of grinding edge tools, it is the usual method in 
 furniture and other woodworking shops, as the work may 
 be done in much less time. It is true that the temper of a 
 tool may be started, but the fact that edge tools are being 
 sharpened continually in this way is proof that it is simply 
 a matter of skill. Therefore, the writer recommends the 
 use of a 6" or 8" emery wheel, which may be driven by a 
 small motor if there is no other power in the shop. 
 
 While the manual-training teacher need not be ashamed 
 to admit that he does not know how to file a saw properly, 
 since he will find plenty of good company among journey- 
 men woodworkers, many of whom habitually send their 
 saws to a saw filer, every teacher of woodwork, however, should 
 be an expert in grinding, whetting, or oilstoning, in fitting 
 a cap iron to a plane cutter, and in doing any of the adjust- 
 ing necessary to keep his entire outfit in perfect condition. 
 Moreover, he should be able to do it in the time which the 
 average teacher ordinarily can give to that part of his 
 work. 
 
 If there is but one equipment of edge tools to be used by 
 all classes, it will be difficult to know of all losses and 
 breakages of tools, unless the teacher makes an inspection 
 of tools before each class leaves the room, which is imprac- 
 ticable on account of the time required, and at the same 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 29 
 
 time unsatisfactory, because, even then, the source of 
 the damage can rarely be located with certainty. 
 
 Constant care is necessary to insure that the benches and 
 other fittings are not defaced, either carelessly or deliber- 
 ately, as the possession of a sharp tool is, to most boys, a 
 temptation to use it, and a few will be apt to cut the first 
 piece of wood that they see, without much regard for the 
 ethics of their action. 
 
 Supplies. - - There is but one exact way of estimating 
 the material necessary to provide for the work of a class 
 during a specified time, and that is to plan a series of 
 models, and require each student to make them one after 
 the other. It is then an easy matter to calculate how 
 many reproductions of a certain model will be made, and 
 the dimensions and the amount of material necessary to 
 make them, allowing 20 or 25 per cent more than is actually 
 necessary for pieces destroyed and for waste. This method, 
 which has definiteness to recommend it, is used entirely by 
 some teachers, but there is one important objection against 
 it, it restricts individual work", which will prevent the 
 progressive teacher from using it to more than a limited 
 extent. 
 
 A teacher should plan his courses so that the first few 
 models will be made by all his students, but as soon as 
 a moderate degree of facility has been gained in the use 
 of the more essential tools, the individual work should 
 ommence. The material for these models may be 
 calculated fairly accurately, and by selecting a course of 
 problems from this book, a satisfactory variety may be 
 obtained which will require material of certain dimen- 
 sions kept -in stock by almost any lumber dealer. 
 
 The models herein described are planned with special 
 
30 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 reference to individual work, and if a supply of boards of 
 the required kinds and thicknesses is ordered, it will be 
 possible to cut the dimensions desired. The width and the 
 length of the boards may be in a general way estimated, so 
 that they may be cut with the least possible waste. 
 
 The different kinds and thicknesses of boards necessary 
 to do any of the work in the courses hereafter described, 
 except that in the trade courses, are as follows: 
 
 Poplar, pine, or basswood, |", \" , f", I"-, If", for towel roller. 
 Black gum, I"; cherry may be substituted for gumwood, if desired. 
 Cherry, J", *", |". 
 Maple, I". 
 
 Oak, i", I", f"; II", for table top and rails; If" for feet for screen 
 frame; 3" X 3" for table legs. 
 
 In giving an order, poplar, pine, and basswood may be 
 ordered as substitutes for each other, the poplar in general 
 giving the best results, as it takes a better finish than either 
 of the other woods. The material for the larger models 
 the plate rack, screen frame, etc. may be furnished 
 by the boys themselves, so that the teacher need not in- 
 clude this material in his estimate. As a matter of fact, 
 if individual work is the rule, generally there will be but 
 two or three of either of the large models made by any 
 class, as it will be found that the mass of the students 
 will work to better advantage upon the smaller models, or 
 that they will want to make some model not included in 
 these courses, in which case it is wise to allow each student 
 to furnish his own material. 
 
 it is a matter of principle with some teachers and schools 
 not to allow the pupils to pay for any material, that they 
 may use. There are various reasons advanced to uphold 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 31 
 
 this policy, but the writer has heard none which he feels 
 has as much weight as the reasons which may be advanced 
 for requiring the student to pay for the material that he 
 uses in making a large piece of work. This does not mean 
 that there should be a penurious administration of the 
 financial side of manual training, but that the student 
 who makes a model in which the material may cost any con- 
 siderable amount, or which may have a real intrinsic value, 
 should pay for the material of which it is made. This is not 
 for the purpose of saving expense to the school, although 
 that is the natural result, but for the benefit derived by the 
 student in receiving tangible evidence of the purchasing 
 value of money, frequently the first real experience of 
 the sort which some of the pupils may have. The average 
 student will feel very differently toward economizing the 
 material which he has bought and paid for, at some mill, 
 than he will if he has obtained the same pieces from the 
 lumber rack of the manual-training department, especially 
 if, through carelessness, he destroys a piece and has to 
 purchase another. 
 
 The writer has noticed frequently that a boy who was 
 actually indifferent while at work upon the routine work 
 at the beginning of the course, becomes alert and interested 
 as soon as he has selected a model, and has bought and 
 paid for the material of which it is to be made. There is 
 rarely any need of cautioning a boy who has purchased his 
 own material, in regard to the necessity of laying out his 
 work carefully in order to avoid the possibility of cutting 
 the material to waste. 
 
 The foregoing does not mean that small models and 
 exercises, in which the value of the stock used is nominal, 
 should be paid for by the student. 
 
32 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 In ordering, the teacher should use judgment in selecting 
 the grades of lumber; for instance, the best grade of a 
 certain kind of lumber may cost ten cents per foot, and 
 another grade of the same kind of wood may cost but six 
 cents. The difference may be due to extra large dimen- 
 sions, or to the presence of a few blemishes, which may be 
 cut around. As there are so many opportunities for using 
 small pieces in a manual-training shop, most of the pieces 
 from which blemishes have been cut may be used for other 
 purposes. 
 
 It is a true saying that the best is the cheapest, but like 
 many other generalities, it does not apply in every case, 
 as the majority of people find it necessary to be governed 
 in their purchases by considerations of economy as well as 
 by those of quality. In the above instance, it will be 
 cheaper to buy the six cent lumber, as there will be noth- 
 ing like the difference in the cost of the boards cut to waste. 
 Although quartered oak costs about twice as much as plain 
 oak, the latter, by many teachers, is never considered. 
 Much of the work of a manual-training school, however, 
 may be done quite as satisfactorily with plain as with 
 quartered oak. 
 
 The teacher should not feel obliged to use the exact 
 kinds of wood specified in the various courses, but should 
 give the preference to the kinds most easily obtained in his 
 locality, if they are suitable. 
 
 Both hot and cold glue should be purchased. Though 
 there is no doubt that the former holds better than the lat- 
 ter, there is not enough difference to justify the statement 
 that cold glue is worthless, which has been made by dif- 
 ferent writers upon the subject. A good grade of hot 
 glue should be used if the best results are desired, but still, 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 33 
 
 on account of its always being ready for use, cold glue may 
 be used advantageously in many places where the strength 
 of the joint does not depend entirely upon the glue. 
 
 In purchasing volatile, liquid finishing materials, it is 
 best not to order too large quantities at a time; several 
 small orders at different times will insure fresh goods, 
 and thus greater efficiency. Since these liquids deteriorate 
 rapidly if the can or bottle is left open (which is certain 
 to happen if the students handle it without the closest 
 supervision), it is a good plan for the teacher to keep the 
 large cans away from the students, and to supervise per- 
 sonally the pouring into smaller receptacles of a sufficient 
 amount for the use of each class, taking care that any 
 residue is returned to its can and the brushes thoroughly 
 cleaned before the class is dismissed. 
 
 There are many ready-mixed stains and wax finishes 
 upon the market, and these are in general better for the use 
 of manual-training classes than any which can be mixed, 
 as they are sold in convenient form and for every conceiv- 
 able purpose. 
 
 In purchasing shellac, care should be taken to secure 
 a satisfactory article. Certain manufacturers, in putting 
 up shellac, use some adulterant, which prevents its harden- 
 ing properly. This can be known only by testing. Pure 
 shellac and alcohol, spread thinly, will set perfectly in a 
 few minutes, but the kind above mentioned will require 
 a longer time to set; in fact, finger marks will be left upon 
 it the next day, unless handled carefully, and it will be 
 very little harder a year after its application. 
 
 Pure shellac and alcohol, which should be specified in 
 ordering, has an appearance similar to coffee and cream, 
 while the objectionable kind has a peculiar oily appearance. 
 
34 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 After an opportunity for one comparison in appearance 
 and in behavior under a brush, the difference will be 
 evident. 
 
 The most reliable shellac is that which is cut by the 
 teacher himself. This may be done by dissolving gum 
 shellac in alcohol. Break up gum shellac into fine pieces, 
 or use flake shellac; put the pieces into a jug or glass jar, 
 and cover them with alcohol; set this away, and shake it 
 occasionally. Grain alcohol, or the best grade of wood 
 alcohol, may be used; either will give satisfactory results. 
 Fresh gum shellac should be secured for this purpose, or it 
 will not cut properly. Test a small sample before pur- 
 chasing, unless it is guaranteed. 
 
 A suitable brush for stains and filling may be bought 
 at a very low price, as it makes little difference if the work 
 is not done so smoothly as shellacking, for the spreading of 
 which an expensive brush is necessary, which should be 
 well taken care of, if the best results are desired. A 
 teacher can make six of each kind of brush last three or 
 four years by giving his personal attention to caring for 
 them; on the other hand, a gross of each may be de- 
 stroyed in the same time if he leaves their care entirely to 
 his students. 
 
 Some little care should be exercised in the selection of 
 the supply of screws and nails. The assortment of nails 
 should include some of every size from 3d. fine to 20d. 
 common, and from half inch to lOd. finish. Likewise, 
 screws suitable for the needs of the course should be or- 
 dered, and, in addition, one or two dozen each of several 
 larger sizes, and a few boxes of assorted smaller screws. 
 There should also be a small assortment of screw hooks and 
 eyes, carpet tacks, and similar articles, as the manual-train- 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 35 
 
 ing teacher frequently is called upon to accommodate 
 others, and there is often a demand for various kinds of 
 odds and ends in doing jobs around the shop. 
 
 Lists of equipment. - - The following outfit is suitable 
 for the benches of a school where the individual equipment 
 is to be purchased, and is for the use of twenty-four students 
 at one time. 
 
 Individual Outfit for Twenty-four Students 
 
 24 benches, fitted with drawers, racks, and closets for tools. 
 24 outfits of tools, each consisting of : 
 
 1-15" iron jack plane. 1-1" socket firmer chisel. 
 
 1-7" iron knuckle-joint block plane. 1 gauge. 
 
 1-J" socket firmer chisel. 1-12" backsaw. 
 
 1-V' socket firmer chisel. 1-20" cutting-off saw. 
 
 1-f" socket firmer chisel. 1-24" ripsaw. 
 
 NOTE. For mature students of carpentry, instead of the two 
 last-mentioned saws, a 22" panel saw, a 26" ripsaw, and a 26" cutting- 
 off saw should be provided in addition to the backsaw. 
 
 -8" swing bitbrace. 1 bench brush. 
 
 -12 oz. bell-faced claw hammer. 1 bench hook. 
 
 -2 \" hickory mallet. 1-24" straight rule. 
 
 -6" screw driver. 1-}" auger bit. 
 
 -6" bevel. 1-f" auger bit. 
 
 1-6" try-square. \-\" auger bit. 
 
 1 pr. 6" wing dividers. 1-f" auger bit. 
 
 1-8" X 2" X 1" oilstone. 1-1" auger bit. 
 1 self-righting oil can. 
 
 The above is a satisfactory equipment for students 
 taking the carpenter's trade course, and for most of the 
 work the students may be called upon to do if the school 
 is part of an institution in which they are expected to aid 
 in keeping the buildings in repair. 
 
36 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 For a manual-training school, some of the tools above 
 mentioned will be found unnecessary for the individual 
 equipment, but they should be a part of the general or 
 rack equipment of the shop. In such a school, in which a 
 satisfactory but an economical outfit is desired, the follow- 
 ing list of tools will be found suitable. 
 
 Outfit of Common Tools for Each Bench 
 
 1-20" cutting-off saw. 1 bench brush. 
 
 1-24" ripsaw. 1 bench hook. 
 
 1-12" backsaw. 1-6" screw driver. 
 
 1-24" straight rule. 1 oilstone. 
 
 1 gauge. 1 self-righting oil can. 
 
 1-6" try-square. 1 bitbrace. 8" swing. 
 1-12 oz. hammer. 
 
 Individual Outfit of Edge Tools 
 
 1-15" iron jack plane. 
 
 1-7" iron knuckle-joint block plane. 
 
 1 each, i", i", I", 1" socket firmer chisels. 
 
 l_each, i" , I", V, I", 1" auger bits. 
 
 General or Rack Equipment 
 
 (These tools are suitable to accompany either of the above described 
 bench outfits.) 
 
 3-24" iron jointers. 2-12" try-squares. 
 
 8-10" iron smoothing planes. 6 framing squares. 
 
 NOTE. Edges of framing squares should be divided into 4ths, Sths, 
 12ths, 16ths. (For manual training, two will be enough.) 
 
 6-4" screw drivers. 2-12" bevels. 
 
 4-8" screw drivers. 8-6" bevels. (Omit for carpentry.) 
 
 2-12" screw drivers. 8-6" wing dividers. (Omit for 
 
 12 hickory mallets, 2|" face. carpentry.) 
 
 6 gauges. 2-10" wing dividers. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 37 
 
 1-12" wing divider. 1 glass cutter. 
 
 G slip stones. Assorted sizes and l-A" department tool stamp. 
 
 shapes. 1 set T y steel letters. 
 
 3-26" cutting-olf saws. 8 points. 1 set re" steel figures. 
 
 2 sets auger bits. 1-30" level. 
 
 1 doz. each, #3, 4, 5, 6, 7, German 1-12" iron level. 
 
 bits. 3 doz. nail sets. Cup point. As- 
 1 each, 3" and 2" expansion bits. sorted, mostly small. 
 
 6 wooden countersinks. 1 doz. peg-awl hafts. 
 
 G lightning countersinks. 6 doz. awls for above hafts. 
 
 1 set socket firmer chisels. |" to 1-10" swing, ratchet brace. 
 
 2". 1 doz. 3^"X 5" cabinet scrapers. 
 
 6-18" turn-saw frames. (Omit for 1 doz. iron spokeshaves. 
 
 carpentry.) 1 doz. sloyd knives. 
 
 Blades for above saws. 1 hack-saw frame. 
 
 6-16" compass saws. 1 doz. hack-saw blades. 
 
 6 clamps; to open 3' 6". 2-10" drawshaves. 
 
 6-14" hand screws. 1 iron routing plane. 
 
 1 doz. 12" hand screws. 1-9" iron rabbet plane. 
 
 1 doz. 10" hand screws. \-\" wood bead plane. 
 
 1 doz. each, 6" and 4" slim taper 1 set f" match planes. 
 
 files. 1 set \" match planes. 
 
 1 doz. 12" half round cabinet 1 iron tongue and groove plane. 
 
 files. 1 breast drill. 
 
 1 doz. flat bastard mill files; single 2 doz. twist drills, assorted from 
 
 cut. I" to \". 
 
 G bit files. 3 each, !",i",J",f",l",H", gouges. 
 
 1 each, 8" and 12" monkey 3 each, J", |", f", 1", center bits. 
 
 wrenches. 24 drawing kits. 
 
 3-G" button pliers. 24 pencil compasses. 
 
 1 each, 8" and 10" button pliers. 2-3" hatchets. 
 
 3-6" end-cutting nippers. 1 grindstone. 
 
 In a school where strictest economy is necessary, the 
 equipment of tools on the following page will be found 
 sufficient for a class of twenty-four boys to do all the work 
 planned in these courses. 
 
38 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Many teachers prefer an equipment similar to the fol 
 lowing, there being fewer tools to care for and to keep ir 
 order, as it eventually falls upon the teacher to see that al 
 the tools are in the best possible condition for a new class 
 
 Economical Bench Equipment for Twenty-four Pupils 
 
 24 benches. 24 bench brushes. 
 
 24-15" iron jack planes. 24-6" try-squares. 
 24-7" iron knuckle-joint block 24-12" backsaws. 
 
 planes. 24 bench hooks. 
 
 24-1" socket firmer chisels. 24 drawing kits. 
 
 24 gauges. 24 pencil compasses. 
 24-24" straight rules. 
 
 General Tools for Rack Equipment 
 
 6-20" cutting-off saws. 10 points. 2 doz. assorted twist drills, \" t< 
 
 6-24" ripsaws. 6 points. \" . For bitbrace. 
 
 4-10" iron smoothing planes. 1-J" wood bead plane. 
 
 1-24" iron jointer. 1-f" dado plane. 
 
 1-12" try-square. 1-9" iron rabbett plane. 
 
 1 framing square. (6, for the Car- 1-10" drawshave. 
 
 penter's course. 6 sloyd knives. 
 
 12-12 oz. hammers. 6 iron spokeshaves. 
 
 3-4" screw drivers. 6-3}" X 5" cabinet scrapers. 
 
 6-6" screw drivers. 6 peg-awl hafts. 
 
 2-8" screw drivers. 3 doz. awls for above hafts. 
 
 1-12" screw driver. 1 doz. nail sets. Cup pointed 
 3 oilstones. Small size. 
 
 3 self-righting oil cans. 1-18" level. 
 
 4-6" wing dividers. l-iV" steel department stamp. 
 
 6-8" swing bitbraces. 1 set \" figures. . 
 
 2-6" swing bitbraces. 1 glass cutter. 
 
 1-10" ratchet bitbrace. 2-6" button pliers. 
 
 1 set auger bits. 2-6" end-cutting nippers. 
 
 6 each, J", f ", |", f, 1", auger bits. 1-8" monkey wrench. 
 
 6 each, # 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, German bits. \ doz. 8" flat bastard mill files 
 
 Single cut. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 39 
 
 1 doz. 12" half round cabinet files. 6 each, I", J", f", J", f ', socket 
 
 1 doz. 4" slim taper files. firmer chisels. 
 
 1 doz. 6" slim taper files. 3 wooden countersinks. 
 
 4 clamps. To open 3' 6". 1 lightning countersinks. 
 
 3-14" hand screws. 2 slip stones. 
 
 6-12" hand screws. 3 each, ", f ', 1", 1J", gouges. 
 
 6-10" hand screws. 2 each, J", ", f", 1", center bits. 
 
 3-18" turning saw frames with 6-6" bevels. 
 
 blades. (Omit for carpentry.) 1-3" hatchet. 
 
 3-16" compass saws. 8-2^" hickory mallets. 
 
 1 set socket firmer chisels, J" to 2". 1 grindstone. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 SUGGESTIVE COURSES 
 
 Grading of exercises. - - In preparing the following 
 courses, it has been the intention to suggest a series of 
 models which will lead the student from the simple to the 
 complex in gradual steps. For reasons that have been 
 previously discussed, the writer realizes the futility of 
 endeavoring to arrange a course which may be completed 
 by a series of exercises as perfectly graded as is possible 
 for instance, in piano practice. He has therefore been 
 governed by the size and the importance of the models, 
 and by the difficulties involved in combining the various 
 forms of construction, rather than by the questionable 
 basis of one tool being more difficult to use than another. 
 
 Time necessary for completion. In regard to the time 
 necessary to complete the various courses, there is a wide 
 difference in the amount of work that may be accom- 
 plished by different classes. These courses are planned to 
 give ample work for the exceptionally capable student; 
 consequently the conscientious teacher need not feel that 
 he is doing less than he should, if his class does not 
 accomplish all that is laid out. 
 
 Use of outlined courses. It is not expected that the 
 outlines will be followed implicitly, as no course can be 
 devised which is the best for each one of any class, but 
 they should each be considered simply as an indication of 
 the grade of work that the average student should be able 
 
 40 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 41 
 
 to perform at each step in his progress. They may also 
 be used by the teacher in selecting work for his classes, and 
 as a basis for comparison when a new model is being con- 
 sidered, in this way aiding the teacher to decide whether a 
 certain model that some student may wish to make is suit- 
 able for that particular student to undertake at that time. 
 
 In fact, the courses are, in general, adapted to the more 
 mature student of the normal schools, and, in connection 
 with the rest of this handbook are intended primarily for 
 the use of prospective teachers of manual training in pre- 
 paring for their future work. 
 
 Some of the sketches illustrating the models of the 
 courses, instead of being working or scaled drawings, 
 are made in perspective, the student being given only 
 enough to suggest the size. It is desirable that the student 
 should not follow the design closely; therefore the details 
 are suggestive only, and each student should be required 
 to design the details of every model that he makes, being 
 guided by the teacher. 
 
 To reiterate and to emphasize previous statements, 
 the courses should by no means prevent the teacher from 
 departing from them as individual cases may make it ad- 
 visable, or from substituting others that he may deem 
 better suited to his special work. The models mentioned 
 are suggestive only of the approximate degree of difficulty 
 that should govern the selection of the work of the average 
 student. 
 
 A regular course to be followed under all conditions 
 seriously hinders the development of many students, 
 who should be encouraged, instead, to design their own 
 work to the greatest extent possible. If necessary, models 
 made by the teacher or by other students may be used as 
 
42 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 motives or suggestions, and each student required to make 
 a working drawing of the model, changing or improving 
 the design, instead of making a simple copy, and construct- 
 ing his own model from the drawing. 
 
 The use of the arithmetic given in " Elements of Con- 
 struction" may, in the manual-training classes, be optional 
 with the teacher. 
 
 Research and written exercises. In using " Elementary 
 Woodwork" and " Elements of Construction" as the basis 
 of the work of classes in the carpenter's trade courses, 
 research and written exercises should be required upon 
 topics and exercises which treat of construction, the allied 
 trades, and the use, strength, and durability of materials. 
 An entire chapter upon tools, materials, or other subjects 
 generally, should not be assigned for study at one time, 
 as, in most cases, if the proper amount of research is de- 
 voted to the subject and it is written up as it should be, 
 there will be too much work for one assignment. Each 
 teacher will have to decide for himself the matter which 
 should be discussed and the time which may be allowed 
 for it. 
 
 Tests and examinations. Periodic verbal or written 
 tests should be given, reviewing the work performed since 
 the preceding test; there should also be an examination at 
 the end of the term or semester, covering the more impor- 
 tant points of theory and practice. 
 
 The written exercises should, if possible, be arranged so 
 that they will come at frequent intervals, during the whole 
 term, and should be kept as nearly as possible parallel with 
 the bench exercises. Class exercises may be performed by 
 as many students as can work together to advantage, or 
 by as few as the teacher may desire. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 43 
 
 References to other volumes. In the following outlines 
 of suggestive courses, special care has been exercised to 
 use no unfamiliar term, and to mention no subject nor 
 process which is not fully described in one of the volumes 
 of the series. These volumes are indicated by the use of 
 letters; for instance, the work of the manual- training 
 classes, and of the first year of the trade classes, is taken 
 from " Elements of Woodwork" and from " Elements of 
 Construction," the former being indicated by the letter 
 W, and the latter by the letter C. The work of the sec- 
 ond year trade classes is taken from " Constructive Car- 
 pentry," which is indicated by the letters CC, and from 
 " Inside Finishing," to which reference is made by the 
 letters IF. These letters indicate the book, and the ac- 
 companying number indicates the topic in which the item 
 mentioned will be found. If no letters appear, the sketch 
 will be found in this volume. 
 
44 
 
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 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
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CHAPTER V 
 SPECIAL TEACHING HINTS AND SUGGESTIVE DESIGNS 
 
 New subjects. The models hereafter described indi- 
 cate the approximate progression of difficulty rather than 
 the exact sequence of work that should be followed. 
 Each teacher, far better than any one else, should be able 
 to select the models best suited to the needs of his own 
 classes; therefore the subjects for description and demon- 
 stration should be decided when the model is selected, 
 and should include, except as review may seem necessary, 
 only the new tools and materials or processes introduced. 
 
 It will not be wise to go through the entire list of new 
 subjects at the beginning of the work upon the model. 
 If taken up at this time, very little of it will be fixed 
 sufficiently in the minds of the students to be of value to 
 them when they reach the different stages of the work. 
 A short talk at the beginning of the work each day, as a 
 new tool is taken up, will produce better results. 
 
 Stock cutting. - - The materials for the first few models 
 of any course should be prepared by the teacher before the 
 class arrives. After it is evident that the students have 
 learned the necessity for making an allowance for work- 
 ing and for cutting, as well as to minimize waste and 
 blemishes, they should be allowed to cut from the board, 
 having first made sure that there are no scraps from which 
 
 56 
 
WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 57 
 
 the desired pieces may be cut. The teacher should watch 
 this part of the work very carefully, as within it lies the 
 greatest possibilities of economy or waste. In order that 
 the students may be given a broader experience in stock 
 cutting than is possible in cutting only one or two pieces at 
 a time, they may get out the stock from which several 
 models of the same kind are to be made, taking turns in 
 doing this, that all the class may have the benefit of the 
 exercise. This may be carried out successfully by allowing 
 the advanced students to prepare the stock for the work of 
 the beginning classes. 
 
 In general, the material required for the following 
 models may be cut from the regular stock thicknesses. 
 This saves a great deal of time, and there is no real benefit 
 gained by requiring that the student should plane every- 
 thing to its three dimensions. Usually material that has 
 been cared for properly during the time it has been season- 
 ing will be as fair, or " out of wind/' as it is possible for 
 any student or workman to make it; but if its face is not 
 true, which may be proven by the method indicated in 
 "Elements of Woodwork," 30 D, or in "Elements of Con- 
 struction," 4 D, it should be made so by using the jack plane 
 sharpened carefully and set to cut very fine, after which the 
 piece should be gauged to an even thickness and planed to 
 the gauge marks. This will result in a piece a little thinner 
 than actually .required, and if this difference is so great 
 as to destroy the piece for its purpose, it should be dis- 
 carded. Many young teachers regard the dimensions 
 given upon a drawing as immutable, and they will re- 
 peatedly discard material that is a trifle smaller than called 
 for, or will cut stock badly to waste in order to secure 
 
58 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 the desired size. There are certain dimensions that can- 
 not be changed after the work is planned, and others 
 that need not be observed so carefully ; in making the dis- 
 tinction, the teacher has an -opportunity to give a demon- 
 stration of the necessity for exercising economy and 
 judgment. 
 
 In commercial work it is generally the custom to get 
 out all the material called for by the stock list, or all 
 that will be required to finish the work to a certain stage. 
 In school work this custom cannot be followed so closely 
 as in practical life since, if a large article, or a model re- 
 quiring a number of pieces, is being made, the work is apt 
 to be in progress for several months before the last piece 
 will be needed. If all the material were cut at once, some 
 of it certainly would be lost or appropriated by another 
 student, unless the teacher assumed the unnecessary bur- 
 den of giving his personal attention to seeing that all the 
 pieces of the different models under construction were ac- 
 curately accounted for at each lesson, or of keeping them 
 under lock and key. 
 
 Making the model. When the actual work upon the 
 model has commenced, the teacher should be continually 
 upon the alert to prevent the students from cutting off too 
 much wood, thereby making the model undersize; the 
 tendency to do this will be more apparent upon the parts of 
 the work in which the tools work the easiest, as, for in- 
 stance, in planing the sides and the edges. It is obviously 
 more difficult to obtain a square and true end than to 
 obtain equally good results upon side and edge wood. The 
 use of the bench hook as a jack board or shooting board 
 (see page 3) should not be encouraged ; it is a method of 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 59 
 
 obtaining results rarely used by workmen, though much 
 used in the manual-training work of the grades, but the 
 methods described in " Elements of Woodwork," 44 B, or 
 in "Elements of Construction," 18 B, have stood the test of 
 many generations. A mechanic sometimes will use the 
 jack board if he has many ends to block plane; say, for 
 instance, in making mitered picture frames. " Any fool," as 
 a workman once said, "can make a joint with a jack board." 
 It should be the aim of the teacher to develop the skill 
 which will permit the student to make a good joint by 
 his own unassisted efforts, as a workman has to do. 
 
 The difficulty of making a good joint upon end wood 
 is not due entirely to the fact that it is more difficult to 
 cut end wood than side wood, but largely to the fact that 
 the average student persists in cutting a shaving about 
 four times as thick as he should, and in continuing his 
 exertions after the plane is badly in need of sharpening. 
 As Solomon said, " If the iron be blunt, and he do not whet 
 the edge, then must he put to 'more strength ; but wisdom 
 is profitable to direct." (Eccl. x. 10.) After the students 
 have obtained a reasonable degree of skill in the use of 
 their tools, as satisfactory results may be obtained upon 
 end as upon side wood, if the tools are properly sharpened 
 and adjusted. 
 
 Tendencies to be corrected. If there is one thing 
 more than another, in teaching tool work, in which the 
 novice should be guided and watched, it is in the use of sand- 
 paper, largely because it seems the simplest thing in the 
 world to rub a piece of sandpaper over a piece of wood. 
 The average student has an irresistible tendency to use 
 sandpaper for any and all purposes, and no amount of 
 
60 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 reasoning or instruction will change this tendency until by 
 experience he learns that he injures more work than he 
 improves, and that the use of sandpaper before all the 
 cutting is done results in dulling the edge tools which are 
 used after it. It is the custom of some teachers, during 
 this stage of the class work, to keep a supply of sand- 
 paper torn to a convenient size, say one eighth of a sheet, 
 and to give a piece to each student as he needs it, requiring 
 that each piece shall be returned to him after it is used. 
 This prevents stray pieces from being used without the 
 teacher's knowledge. 
 
 Never allow a student to sandpaper across the grain. 
 In sandpapering a flat surface, no matter how small, 
 always use a block ; the smaller the surface, the more 
 need of a block. 
 
 The teacher should guard against the tendency of the 
 students to use the spokeshave for every conceivable 
 purpose. Its use should be kept within its legitimate 
 field, that of truing curved surfaces, and never used for 
 making a cylinder, nor in any other place where a plane 
 may be used as well. 
 
 Files and rasps, in respect to the disposition of the students 
 to use them for other than their legitimate uses, belong 
 in the same category as do sandpaper and spokeshaves. 
 Very few students have the moral stamina to resist the 
 temptation to use a rasp or a file in place of the block- 
 plane, if the latter does not work easily. . The 'best way 
 to prevent the use of these tools in places where others 
 should be used is to keep them out of the way. The 
 spokeshave, contrary to the custom of many teachers, 
 should not .be a part of the regular bench equipment, 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 61 
 
 but a part of the rack or general equipment, in which 
 place the teacher may easily prevent its wrong use. 
 
 SUGGESTIVE DESIGNS 
 
 As has already been stated, the students should not be 
 allowed to use the following designs for the purpose of 
 copying them, but only as suggestions ; they are intended 
 simply as the basis from which the students may develop 
 their own designs. 
 
 References to the four volumes of the series are made, 
 as in the " Suggestive Courses for Study/ ' by letters (see 
 page 43). 
 
 Fig. i. Plant Label. 
 
 New subjects : l Ripsaw and cutting-off saw (will be 
 used only in rough cutting the material) . Back- 
 saw. Gauge. Knife (cutting and whittling). 
 Rule, Try-square. Jack plane. Block plane. 
 
 Wood: Poplar (whitewood), pine, or basswood. Its 
 native area, method of growth, and manipula- 
 tion. (See W., Chaps. 1, 2.) 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. From material dressed two sides to desired 
 
 thickness, cut a piece \" longer and \" 
 
 wider than required dimensions. 
 Exercises. 
 1. A. Prove best or face side (broad surface) to make sure it is out 
 
 of wind. 
 
 1 The items under this heading are intended for discussion and dem- 
 onstration on the part of the teacher, and for drill on the part of the 
 students. Each teacher should decide for himself whether the sequence 
 of the subjects is best suited to his needs, and if not, should rearrange 
 it accordingly. 
 
 FIG./ 
 
62 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 B. Mark the figure " 1 " on face side, near the face, or best edge, and 
 
 plane edge straight and square with face side ; use jack plane. 
 
 C. Unless it is necessary to plane the face side to make the piece 
 
 out of wind (which will rarely be the case on a model of this 
 size), do not plane the face side until all the edges are done. 
 
 2. A. Mark the figure "2" on the face side near the best end (at 
 
 right angles with the grain). 
 
 B. Mark with knife and try-square the line to which the end will 
 
 be cut off. 
 
 C. Cut off with backsaw; leave a very little for block-planing. 
 
 D. Block-plane exactly to line, and test with try-square to be sure 
 
 that the end is square with both the face side and the edge. 
 
 3. 'Measure desired length from end 2, and square across the face side 
 
 with a pencil. 
 
 4. A. Mark the figure "4" near the other edge (the back edge) on 
 
 the face side. 
 
 B. Mark the required distance with the gauge. (Drill on waste 
 
 piece.) 
 
 C. With the jack plane, plane edge 4 down to the required line, 
 
 and straight and square with the face side. 
 
 5. Point the label, being sure that the point is on the center line, and 
 
 that the obtuse angles are exactly opposite each other. The point 
 should not be brought to a feather edge, as it will be broken 
 easily in handling, and it will be very difficult to work to an exact 
 length ; leave the point something less than -fa" across it. Do 
 not measure it, but be guided by the eye. 
 
 6. Plane both sides. 
 
 7. A. This model should not be sandpapered, as a small piece is diffi- 
 
 cult to hold for sandpapering. 
 
 B. This model may be used also as a whittling exercise. 
 
 C. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 Fig. 2. Key Tag. 
 
 New subjects : Bits ; auger, center. Spokeshave. Chisel used for 
 
 paring. Compasses. 
 Wood: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 63 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1, 2, 3, 4. Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 5. With compasses, mark round end on face side. 
 
 6. Bore \" hole at center of round end. . Use 
 
 auger or center bit. To do this without 
 splitting the piece, place it in the vise, 
 face side up, and slightly compressed at 
 right angles with the grain. Do not bore 
 , entirely through from face side, as the 
 pit is apt to tear the wood badly when it 
 comes through the back; turn piece over 
 when the center is definitely marked on 
 the back and bore from that side. 
 
 7. Plane sides. 
 
 8. Do not use sandpaper. 
 
 F/&Z 
 
 9. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 Fig. 3. Wedge. 
 
 New subject : Bevel square. 
 
 Wood : Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Prepare piece 3" longer than required, so that 
 
 sufficient wood to grasp while at'work up- 
 on the model, which will be too small to 
 be handled easily. Get piece out of I" 
 stock \" wider than required. 
 
 C. Mark face side. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Plane both edges straight and square with face 
 
 side. Do not block-plane either end. 
 
 2. Hold in vise and plane to a wedge, which may 
 
 be cut off to one of required dimensions. 
 Make point of wedge on the center line of 
 the edge by planing from both sides. 
 
 3. Round thin edge of wedge. Do not make a 
 
 feather edge ; see Fig. 1, Ex. 5. 
 
 will be 
 
 /7G.J 
 
64 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 4. A. Measure from round end the desired length ; mark with knife. 
 
 B. Transfer to all four sides. 
 
 C. Lay out bevel corners with light knife lines. Set bevel to 
 
 angle of 45 by setting the tongue of the bevel to the same 
 figures upon both sides of the angle of a steel or framing 
 square. See C., Topic 58 D. 
 
 D. Cut off with backsaw to length. Leave marks on the wood. 
 
 5. Bevel corners to required angle, which has been described in Ex. 4, 
 
 above. Cut down on the bench hook with the knife. 
 
 6. A. Block plane butt edge of wedge to knife marks, or trim with 
 
 knife if preferred. 
 B. Omit sandpapering. 
 
 7. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 Fig. 4. Flower Stick. 
 Wood: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Cut piece from material at least I" larger in square, and 
 \" longer than required dimensions. 
 
 _ 
 i 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Plane one side straight and true, and mark it for the face, or " 1." 
 
 B. Plane one adjoining side square with it, and mark it "2." 
 
 C. With a gauge sharpened to make a fine line, gauge from this 
 
 side across the face, and mark the line which indicates the 
 face corner of the other side. 
 
 D. Plane the third side to this line, and square with the face ; 
 
 mark it "3." 
 
 E. Using the gauge without changing the set of it, mark the edges 
 
 of side " 4 " upon sides 2 and 3. 
 
 F. Plane side 4 to these marks. 
 
 2. A. Mark and finish top end. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 65 
 
 B. Lay out decorative notches with fine knife lines, and with the 
 utmost accuracy cut to them with a sharp knife or a chisel. 
 
 3. Point stick according to dimensions. Be sure that the students 
 
 do not cut off this end until this stage has been reached. Leave 
 point as described in Ex. 5, Fig. 1. 
 
 4. Omit sandpapering. 
 
 5. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 Fig. 5. Sandpaper Block. 
 
 New subject: Sandpaper; its manufacture; its use and abuse; its 
 
 effect upon edge tools. 
 Wood : Same as in Fig. 1. 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 Exercises. 
 1, 2. Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 3. A. Measure desired length from end 2, and mark with knife, work- 
 
 ing from face edge or edge 1. Mark this end "3." The edge 
 parallel to edge 1 should be marked "4." 
 
 B. Square across edges 1 and 4 from 
 
 this mark, and connect the lines 
 across the back side (the poorer 
 broad surface), using the knife 
 for all lines. 
 
 C. With the backsaw, cut off the 
 
 wood beyond mark 3, as near 
 the mark as possible, and leave 
 the mark on the wood. 
 
 D. Finish to the knife mark with 
 
 the block plane. 
 
 4. A. With a fine gauge, mark upon the 
 
 face the required distance of 
 edge 4 from edge 1. 
 
 B. With the jack plane, work edge 4 down to mark, and square 
 
 with face side. 
 
 C. Plane sides. 
 
 D. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 5. A. Cut or tear a sheet of No. 1 sandpaper into eight equal parts. 
 
 FIG. 5 
 
66 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 B. Fold it, not tack it, around a block of wood about 2" x 3" and 
 sandpaper all six faces with it. Be sure that the corners 
 of the model are not rounded off, but that they are perfectly 
 square, and that true edges and sides are maintained. 
 
 Fig. 6. Pencil Sharpener. 
 
 New subjects: Hand screws (See W., Topics 59, 66, and C., Topic 33). 
 
 Glue (See W. , Topic 65) . Gluing (See W. , Topic 66) . 
 
 Gluing with a caul. Shellac (See W., Topic 71). 
 
 Wood : Cherry, or any hard-grained wood. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. With a sharp lead pencil, draw a line the length 
 
 of the piece in the center of the face side. 
 
 2. A. Lay off on the center line the distance 
 
 between the wide and the narrow points of 
 the model. 
 
 B. Lay off from these points, one half of the 
 
 wide and narrow dimensions each side of 
 the center line. 
 
 C. Draw semicircle, and straight lines indicating 
 
 taper. 
 
 D. Plane to taper lines. 
 
 E. Round the end. 
 
 F. Plane sides. 
 
 3. Same as Ex. 5, Fig. 5. 
 
 4. A. Cut a piece of sandpaper the desired length, and about \" 
 
 wider than the widest part of the wood. 
 
 B. Glue it in place. Use a caul, which is a piece of -wood for the 
 
 purpose of pressing the sandpaper close to the piece to which 
 it is to be glued ; hold it there by the pressure of a hand 
 screw until the glue has hardened. The caul should be some- 
 what larger than the piece of sandpaper. 
 
 C. After the glue has become hard, trim the sandpaper flush with 
 
 the sides of the piece of wood to which it is glued. 
 
 D. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 5. A. Finish model with white shellac, spread very thin. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 67 
 
 B. After the first coat is hard, sandpaper it lightly with 00 sand- 
 
 paper. 
 
 C. Apply second coat of thin shellac. 
 
 D. After second coat is hard, rub it with 00 sandpaper and with 
 
 boiled or sweet oil. 
 
 E. Polish with a soft cloth. (In rubbing finish with sandpaper, do 
 
 not rub it with a block ; use a felt pad, or the hand. Other- 
 wise the sandpaper will cut through the finish.) 
 
 Fig. 7. Silk Winder. 
 
 New subjects : Grain of hard wood ; comparison with other woods ; 
 
 method of growth ; area of growth. Files and rasps ; their use 
 
 and abuse. 
 
 Wood: Cherry, or any close-grained hard wood. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. From material dressed two sides to the required thickness, cut 
 
 piece 1" wider, and 2|" 
 
 longer than desired 
 
 dimensions (to allow 
 
 wood enough to grasp). 
 Exercises. 
 1,2. Same as Ex. land 2, Fig. 1. 
 
 3. Same as Ex. 4, Fig. 1. 
 
 4. A. With a sharp knife, mark 
 
 length on end 3, but do 
 not cut it off. 
 
 B. Lay out notches upon all 
 
 four sides, using the /=/G 7 -^ T& u 
 
 bevel set to angle of 45. 
 
 C. Cut notches on three sides, with backsaw, which should run 
 
 very lightly, and just clear marks. 
 
 D. With a sharp chisel, pare very lightly to marks. 
 
 E. Finish with a fine file, keeping inside angles and all corners 
 
 clean and sharp. 
 
 5. A. Cut end 3 with a backsaw, making notches as in Ex. 4 B above 
 B. Plane sides. 
 
68 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 6. Same as Ex. 5, Fig. 5. 
 
 7. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 8. Same as Ex. 5, Fig. 6. 
 
 Fig. 8. Fishline Winder. 
 
 Wood : Either hard or soft. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. From material dressed two sides to the desired thickness, cut 
 
 piece y longer and " wider than required. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1, 2. Same as in Fig. 1. 
 3, 4. Same as in Fig. 5. 
 5. A. Locate center of f " holes. 
 
 B. Place piece in vise as in Fig. 2, Ex. 6. 
 
 C. Bore holes with center or auger bit. If a " Forstner " bit is avail- 
 
 able, it should be used instead of either of the others, as it is 
 less liable to split the wood. (This bit is not 
 suitable for the general use of a class, as it is 
 very easily dulled, and it is almost impos- 
 sible to sharpen it.) If this bit is used, B 
 may be omitted, as the model should be held 
 with a hand screw closely against another 
 piece, so that the bit may bore through with- 
 out tearing the wood of the back side. 
 
 6. Finish the holes in the ends of the model 
 
 and cut out the waist, or the middle of the 
 edges. Use a sharp knife. 
 
 7. Plane sides first. 
 
 8. Sandpaper the model. 
 9. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 10. Shellac the model. Two coats rubbed down with oil. 
 (Exercises 8 and 10 may be omitted if desired.) 
 
 Fig. g. Hatrack. 
 
 New s.ubjects : Bradawl. Studding in plaster partitions. Wood stains 
 (See C. C., Topic 24 B.) Chamfering. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 69 
 
 Wood : Any wood desired. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1,2. Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 3, 4. Same as in Fig. 5. 
 
 5. A. Make pencil lines upon face, edges, and ends, in- 
 
 dicating the angles of the chamfer. Do not 
 use a gauge for this purpose, as the scratches 
 will show after the chamfer has been made. 
 
 B. Chamfer ends first, using the block plane. 
 
 C. Chamfer the edges, using the jack plane. 
 
 6. A. Mark location of hooks. If a screw hook simi- 
 
 lar to the one shown in the illustration is 
 used, mark the location of the screw. If a 
 hook which is fastened on with screws is pre- 
 ferred, mark the location of the screw holes. 
 
 B. Bore holes with suitable bradawl. 
 
 C. Locate and bore \" holes through which the 
 
 rack will be fastened to the wall. These 
 need not come under the hook, as shown hi 
 in the illustration, unless desired, but they 
 should be placed 16" to centers, as that 
 distance will allow the screws to enter the 
 studs of a plaster partition. 
 
 7. A. Plane sides of model. 
 B. Sandpaper model. 
 
 8. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 9. The model may be either stained or finished in 
 
 the natural wood. If the former, it may receive 
 either a wax or a shellac finish. If oak or other 
 hard, open-grained wood is used, it may be 
 See W., Topic 69. 
 
 filled if desired. 
 
 Fig. 10. Table Mat. 
 
 New subjects : Frame saw. Compass saw. Direction of grain to ob- 
 tain maximum strength. Different forms of bitbraces. 
 Wood : Poplar, or oak. 
 
70 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Cut piece about A" larger each way than required dimensions, 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Locate the center by diagonals, without planing the edges. 
 
 B. Draw circle of required diameter. 
 
 C. Before sawing, space off on the diagonals the centers of the 
 
 holes as indicated. 
 
 2. A. Place piece in vise to prevent splitting while boring holes. See 
 
 Ex. 6, Fig. 2. Be sure that sufficient pressure is not exerted 
 
 to split the piece by buckling. 
 B. Bore the holes as indicated. (If the line of centers of these 
 
 holes is parallel with the grain, the piece will be apt to split.) 
 
 3. With the compass 
 saw, or preferably 
 with the frame saw, 
 cut the circle, about 
 i" outside of the 
 line. Place the 
 piece in the vise, 
 the flat surfaces 
 parallel with the 
 
 vise jaws, the grain 
 running at angle of 
 about 45 with the 
 surface of the 
 bench. This will 
 minimize the dan- 
 ger of splitting 
 while sawing, which 
 will be almost cer- 
 tain to happen if the grain is parallel with the bench top. If 
 the grain stands vertically, the same result will be attained. 
 The saw must run very lightly, or the piece will be apt to split, 
 regardless of all precautions. 
 
 Finish edge to exact dimensions by spokeshave and wood file. Be 
 sure that the contour of a perfect circle is maintained. 
 
 f=i&/0 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 71 
 
 5. Smooth both sides with jack plane. The model will be found a 
 
 somewhat awkward shape to hold ; to make neat work possible, 
 a form may be made by making two pins somewhat smaller than 
 the outside hole, and setting them in a piece of scrap wood 
 large enough to support the entire model in such a way that 
 two of the holes will fit over them. Allow the pins to project 
 above the scrap piece a little less than the thickness of the 
 model. Place the model over these pins, and plane both sides in 
 the usual way. 
 
 6. Sandpaper both sides and edges. Maintain correct corners. 
 
 7. Inspect for defects and remedy them. 
 
 8. Stain and finish to taste. 
 
 Fig. n. Rule. 
 
 Wood : Maple, or any close-grained hard wood. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1, 2. Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 3, 4. Same as in Fig. 5, except that in planing the edges, especial care 
 must be used that they are perfectly straight. It is better to be 
 guided entirely by the eye in this, but if necessary, a steel straight- 
 edge may be used for the final test. In work requiring such a 
 degree of accuracy as this, the tools should be in perfect order, 
 and so adjusted that they will take the thinnest possible shaving. 
 
 - i i ' l ' l ' l ' l ' l ' i - i - i i i ' l 
 
 f\ 6\ H <9 9 <0\ //\ 
 
 FIG.lt. 
 
 5. In making the graduations, do not allow the students to lay 
 
 out one inch at a time. Instead, lay out all the inch gradua- 
 tions at once, then the half inch, then the quarter inch, and 
 eighths if desired. Insist upon absolute accuracy. 
 
 6. If the wood is straight grained, the rule may be planed upon 
 
 both sides. If this cannot be done well, the students may 
 sandpaper the sides to a smooth surface. If care is used in 
 selecting the wood for this model, this may be done satisfactorily. 
 
72 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 7 . Finish with two coats of shellac, rubbed down in oil. See Fig. 6, Ex. 5. 
 
 8. If a set of r V sharp steel figures is available, the inches may 
 
 be marked before the rule is shellacked ; otherwise the figures 
 
 should be made 
 very carefully 
 with black draw- 
 ing ink after the 
 model has been 
 rubbed with oil 
 and polished. 
 
 Fig. 12. Plant Stand. 
 
 Octagonal. 
 New subjects : Laying 
 
 out an octagon. 
 
 Nailing. Nails. 
 
 Hammer. 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working 
 
 drawing. 
 
 B. From $" pop- 
 lar, cut rough 
 square |" larg- 
 er than re- 
 quired. 
 
 C. Make the piece for the foot long enough for all four pieces. 
 Exercises. 
 1. A. Plane edge 1. See Fig. 1. 
 
 B. Lay out square accurately with a pencil. 
 
 C. Draw diagonals from corner to corner across the face of the 
 
 square, and set the compasses at one half of their length, 
 measuring from either corner to the center. With the cor- 
 ners as centers, draw arcs as indicated ; their intersection 
 with the edges of the square will give the angles of an 
 octagon. 
 
 D. Connect these points across the angle. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 73 
 
 : : :D 
 
 :':O 
 
 ;BD 
 
 2. A. With block plane, make ends 2 and 
 
 3 square with face edge and side, 
 planing toward edge 4, as the 
 chips will be cut off. See Fig. 1. 
 B. Cut off corners diagonally with the 
 grain, and complete the octagon. 
 
 3. Plane both sides. 
 
 ' "* 
 
 4. Sandpaper both sides and edges. . j 
 
 5. A. Plane four sides of the piece pre- V^ 
 
 pared for the feet. U 
 
 B. Cut them to length. Place them r! 
 
 together, and block-plane each * | 
 
 end of the four at once. > 
 
 C. Sandpaper the feet. aj 
 
 6. A. Nail the feet in their places, locat- . | jl 
 
 ing them accurately. Use 1" *JJ 
 brads. \l 
 
 B. Set the nails. p 
 
 7. Inspect carefully for defects, and *^J 
 
 remedy them as far as possible. ( | 
 
 8. A. Shellac one coat. w 
 
 B. Color putty to match. \ijjj 
 
 C. Proceed with sandpaper and sec-, M 
 
 ond coat in the usual way. 
 
 Fig. 13. Tool Rack. 
 
 Wood : Pine, poplar,, or basswood. 
 
 Preparatory : Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1, 2. Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 3, 4. Same as in Fig. 5. 
 
 5. Space and bore holes, as indicated. 
 
 6. Cut ends to shape indicated, and 
 
 bore holes for screws. 
 
 7. Sandpaper. 
 
 8. Inspect for defects. 
 
 9. Shellac finish if desired, or model may be left unfinished. 
 
 
 
74 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Fig. 14. Bench Hook. See C., Topic 81. 
 
 New subjects : Relation of dimensions to grain. German bits. Coun- 
 tersink. Screwdriver. 
 Wood : Basswood. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Cut one piece \" wider and 2^" longer than required to include 
 
 all three pieces. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1, 2. Same as in Fig. 1. 
 3, 4. Same as in Fig. 5. 
 5. Cut from each end of above piece, one piece 3" long, or \" longer than 
 
 r 33 - ^ required for 
 
 short pieces. 
 6. Cut one of 
 above pieces 
 to the width 
 of the nar- 
 rower short 
 piece. Cut 
 out a blemish, 
 
 if there is one that can be removed in this way. 
 A. Smooth the largest piece of the three upon both sides, but do 
 
 not sandpaper. 
 
 Mark with the exact location of the blocks of each end on 
 opposite sides. The distance between the vertical faces of 
 the short pieces should come in the middle of the length of 
 the large piece, leaving an indefinite distance at each end. 
 8. A. Bore and countersink screw holes in small pieces. Make the 
 holes large enough to allow the screws to slip through easily. 
 Hold the different pieces in their permanent positions by means 
 of hand screws, and drive screws into the large piece to mark 
 the holes there. 
 Remove pieces. 
 
 Spread glue thinly on the bottom of one of the small pieces. 
 Do not use enough glue to squeeze out, or it will make un- 
 necessary work in cleaning it off. 
 
 7. 
 
 9. 
 
 B. 
 
 B. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 75 
 
 B. Place screws in holes as in Ex. 8, A and B, and turn them in. If 
 
 the screws do not bring the pieces to a joint, apply hand 
 
 screws until the glue sets. Be sure that the piece is exactly 
 
 in its position. Repeat the operation with the other piece. 
 
 10. Consider the three pieces as one and treat them as in Exs. 1, 2, 
 
 3, 4, above, except that the vertical distance between the two short 
 
 pieces should be the basis of the extreme length. This model 
 
 should be neither sandpapered nor finished. Enough of these 
 
 models should be made to keep the shop supplied with bench hooks. 
 
 Fig. 15. Cutting Board. 
 New subject: The ellipse. 
 Wood: Poplar. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. The teacher may make a pasteboard pattern a little larger than 
 
 the required model, which will do to mark for rough cutting, 
 
 but the students should lay out the ellipse to exactly the 
 right dimensions. This model should be cut from a board 
 which is good on both sides, as both sides will be used. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Lay out the ellipse by trammel method, as follows : lay out or cut 
 
76 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 notches from C (or the corner of a piece of card or thin wood) 
 the distance C-l, which is equal to one half of the minor axis 
 of the ellipse, and the distance (7-2, which is equal to one half of 
 the major axis. Place 1 on the major axis, and 2 on the minor 
 axis, and C will indicate a point upon the circumference of the 
 ellipse. Each time the positions of 1 and 2 are changed upon the 
 axes, C locates another point on the circumference. These points 
 should be close ^enough together to allow a freehand line to be 
 drawn through them, which will be the desired form of the 
 ellipse. 
 
 2. A. Saw to about " larger than desired. 
 
 B. Finish to exact size and shape with spokeshave and wood file. 
 
 Make the edges square before they are rounded; otherwise 
 they will be apt to have irregularities. 
 
 C. Round the edges. 
 
 3. Plane and sandpaper both sides and edges. 
 
 4. Inspect for defects. 
 
 5. Shellac finish if desired, but it is unnecessary. 
 
 Fig. 1 6. Sand Shovel. 
 
 New subjects: Clinch nails. Stock lists. Three planes of projection. 
 
 See C., Chap. 4. 
 Wood : Poplar, oak, or maple. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut blade of shovel from poplar, " longer and \" wider than 
 
 required. 
 
 D. Cut back cleat of shovel from \" poplar, making allowance 
 
 for working. 
 
 E. Cut the handle from I" hard wood, I" longer than necessary. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Apply Ex. 1, 2 of Fig. 1, and Ex. 3, 4 of Fig. 5, to the blade of 
 
 the shovel. Do not taper it. 
 B. Plane and sandpaper the best side only. 
 
 2. Make back cleat of required dimensions, not cutting it to length. 
 
 3. A. Using I" tinned trunk, clout, or clinch nails, fasten the blade 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 77 
 
 4. 
 
 to the cleat. Bore holes with a bradawl to insure that the 
 nail will not split either piece of wood. Allow the ends of 
 the cleat to project beyond the edges of the blade. Clinch 
 the nails neatly on the top of the cleat, and be sure that no 
 nail comes in the middle of the cleat, as it will interfere with 
 fitting the handle. 
 
 B. Cut the ends of the cleat off flush with the edge of the blade, 
 
 and touch lightly with the block plane. 
 
 C. Bevel the ends of the cleats. 
 
 Lay the blade under side up on the bench, holding the cleat 
 against the edge, and taper it down to ^ at the thin edge. Use 
 
 the jack plane, and guard against planing the heads of the clinch 
 nails, which should be set a little under the surface of the wood. 
 
 5. A. Using the jack plane, square the handle to the required dimen- 
 
 sions, leaving the piece the full length. 
 
 B. Plane the corners until the piece is an accurate octagon the 
 
 entire length. 
 
 C. Plane each one of the eight corners off, and make the stick 
 
 round. Set the plane to cut very fine in doing this, and in 
 finishing it, the block plane may be used if very light touches 
 are necessary, and if the cut does not tear the wood. 
 Guard against the use of the spokeshave for this purpose, as 
 it will result in making the piece too small. Do not depend 
 upon sandpaper to round the handle, as it will not do it. 
 
 D. Sandpaper the handle. 
 
 6. A. Cut the end of the handle to fit the angle of the blade. 
 B. Make a notch in the cleat, which will fit the handle. 
 
78 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 C. Sandpaper the back end of blade and cleat, after they have 
 
 been planed flush with a block plane. 
 7. A. With 1" and l\" clinch nails, fasten the blade to the handle. 
 
 B. Fasten the cleat and the blade to the handle with 1" or If" 
 
 clinch nails. 
 
 C. Bore holes carefully with a bradawl or small German bit. 
 
 In making this model, the utmost care will be necessary in 
 guarding against splitting the wood, especially in the handle. 
 
 8. Sandpaper the bottom and the edges of the blade. 
 
 9. A. Cut the handle to required length. 
 
 B. Round the end of the handle, and sandpaper it. 
 10. Inspect for blemishes, and correct them. 
 A model of this nature need not be finished. 
 
 Fig. 17. Dish Drainer. 
 
 New subject: Driving nails to give maximum grip. 
 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Get out slats \" longer and " wider than required. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 T 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 j 
 
 ] . 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 *-K 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 | 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 --t 
 
 r 
 
 ,1. 
 
 '*-/' 
 
 ^/J^, 
 
 
 >*/!"- 
 
 / '" 
 
 
 
 
 
 D. Cut cleats with the same allowance for working. 
 
 As a matter of economy, the slats for as many of these as will 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 79 
 
 be made should be ripped upon a circular saw at the mill, 
 because it will be almost impossible to split these by hand 
 without allowing the saw to catch, which will generally re- 
 sult in splitting the board and destroying stock. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Plane one edge of all cleats. 
 
 2. Place them together, planed edge all one way, and block plane one end. 
 
 3. Keep them all together, saw to length, and block plane the other end. 
 
 4. A. With a gauge, mark to width, one at a time. 
 
 B. Plane to gauge mark, one at a time. (It is not necessary that 
 these edges should be planed perfectly square.) 
 
 5. Plane both sides and sandpaper. 
 
 6. A. Make cleats to desired size. 
 B. Plane and sandpaper. 
 
 7. A. Nail slats on the cleats, using f " brads. Drive them slanting. 
 
 B. Set the nails a little below the surface ; hold against a piece of 
 
 flat iron to clinch the nails, if they are driven through. 
 
 C. Inspect for defects. 
 Finishing unnecessary. 
 
 Fig. 18. Coat Hanger. See C., Topic 82. 
 
 New subject : Laying out curves by points. 
 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Same as Exs. 1, 2 of Fig. 1 and Exs. 3, 4 of Fig. 5. 
 
 2. A. Lay out points as indicated, by intersection of lines. 
 
 B. Draw curve ; with elbow resting on bench and forearm as 
 radius, a pencil held in the fingers will approximate the 
 correct curve. 
 
 3. With compass, or with frame saw, cut to curved lines, allowing 
 
 about -J" for working. Keep the saw square with the face of the 
 piece, and use the try-square frequently to insure accuracy. 
 
 4. With spokeshave, make inside of curve true and square with sides. 
 
 5. With spokeshave, round the top to given dimensions ; be sure that 
 
 the corners of the curved edges are clean and sharp, and that 
 no lumps are visible. 
 
80 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 6. Plane the sides, and sandpaper the model all around. In this 
 lies a fruitful source of trouble, as the majority of the students 
 
 
 
 Ject/onatfl 
 
 will round the corners, thus destroying the character and the 
 grace of the curves. 
 
 7. Inspect for defects. 
 
 8. Finish in the natural wood, with two coats of shellac rubbed in oil. 
 (The teacher should guard against the tendency to make the model 
 
 too small, which is more apparent in this than in many other 
 models.) 
 
 Fig. 19. Key Rack. 
 
 New subject : \V ood carving. 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 Preparatory. As in Fig. 1. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Same as Exs. 1, 2 of Fig. 1 and Ex. 4 of Fig. 5. 
 
 2. Plane smooth, but do not sandpaper. 
 
 ---V--1 
 
 Jecf/onal/t 
 
 3. Draw simple design for carving. 
 
 (The teacher should be sure that the carving tools are in perfect con- 
 dition, as these, above others, require the attention of an expert.) 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 81 
 
 4. Drill in carving upon a piece of waste wood, making the design to be 
 
 carved. Be careful that the cuts are riot too deep ; ordinarily a cut 
 I" deep is sufficient for this kind of carving. Use a No. 11 veining 
 gouge, a No. 2 skew chisel, and a chip carving knife for this 
 work. 
 
 5. Locate holes for screw hooks and screw eyes and bore them with 
 
 a bradawl. 
 
 6. Sandpaper. Use a block and keep the sandpaper well under 
 
 control, so as not to destroy the sharp edges of the carving. 
 Under no condition allow the sandpaper to touch a cut made 
 by a carving tool. 
 
 7. Inspect for defects. 
 
 8. Stain and finish to suit the taste. 
 
 Fig. 20. Blotting Pad. 
 Wood : Cherry. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut both pad and top of required thickness, making an allow- 
 
 ance for working. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Lay out pad, or under piece wit^i rough edges, and work one 
 
 half of it to desired shape. Work from one straight edge. 
 B. Cut to length, and make other half symmetrical. 
 
 2. Plane to required 
 
 width. Bore 
 holes for round- 
 headed brass 
 screws. 
 
 3. Make top to fit 
 
 pad. 
 
 4. With a suitable 
 
 gouge, cut the finger holes in the sides. If students are below 
 the seventh grade, this model may be made of soft wood. 
 
 5. Inspect for defects. 
 
 6. Stain, and shellac or wax to suit taste. 
 
82 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Fig. 21. Bracket Shelf. 
 Wood: Poplar. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut the shelf and back j 
 
 wider and " longer than desired. 
 
 D. Cut bracket by pattern, for the sake of economy. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Same as Exs. 1, 2 of Fig. 1 and Exs. 3, 4 of Fig. 5, applied to the 
 
 shelf only. 
 
 2. Lay out back with pencil and work carefully to lines. 
 
 3. Plane and sandpaper the shelf and the back. 
 
 4. Using l\" brads, nail the shelf to the back, being sure that they 
 
 are square with each other. 
 
 5. Make bracket in accordance with original design. 
 
 6. A. Fit bracket to both shelf and back. Fit the end wood first. 
 B. Plane and sandpaper it. 
 
 Fasten in place with brads, and with glue used sparingly. 
 
 Set nails. 
 
 Stain. 
 
 Putty nail holes. 
 
 Inspect for defects. 
 
 Shellac or wax finish. 
 
 7. 
 
 C. 
 A. 
 B. 
 C. 
 D. 
 
 Fig. 22. Pen Tray. 
 
 New subjects : Inside and outside gouges. 
 Wood : Cherry, or gumwood. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 83 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1, Same as Exs. 1, 2 of Fig. 1 and Exs. 3, 4 of Fig. 5. 
 
 2. Plane top and bottom. 
 3 Lay out recess in tray. 
 
 4. With an outside gouge of somewhat smaller curve than that required, 
 cut the re- 
 cess. Be 
 sure that 
 the edge of 
 recess 
 clean 
 
 the 
 
 is 
 
 and true 
 
 5. Sandpaper recess and top of 
 
 ners and true edges 
 are preserved. 
 
 6. Inspect for defects. 
 
 7. Finish with shellac, 
 
 rubbed in oil. 
 
 Fig. 23. Plant Stand. 
 Halved. 
 
 New subject : The halved 
 or lock joint. 
 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 
 Preparatory: Cut two 
 pieces as required, 
 making allowance 
 for working. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Make pieces of form 
 
 and dimension re- 
 quired. 
 
 2. Mark the cuts for the 
 
 lock joint. Be sure 
 
 piece. Be sure that the sharp cor- 
 
 that they are made small enough to insure a tight fit, but not 
 small enough to bruise the wood in pressing the joint together. 
 
84 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 In doing this, do not measure with a rule to obtain the marks, but 
 mark directly from the pieces which are to come together. 
 Use the gauge for the depth mark. Square down for sides of the cul 
 
 3. A. Make the cuts with the backsaw. Be sure to cut inside of tl . 
 
 lines, but leave the lines on the wood. 
 
 B. If too tight, do not chisel by guess, but make an accurate 
 
 knife mark to receive the edge of the chisel in making the cut. 
 
 C. Inspect for defects. 
 
 4. Stain or shellac to suit taste. 
 
 Fig. 24. Bird House. 
 
 New subjects: Use of steel square in laying out gable. 
 
 composition and uses. 
 Wood : Pine, or poplar. 
 
 Paint; its 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut all pieces, making allowance for working. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Cut the ends with half pitch gable ; make edges square, 
 stand vertically. 
 
 A. Cut door in one end. 
 
 B. Plane outside of end. 
 
 A. Make sides of desired dimensions. 
 
 Grain to 
 
 2, 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 85 
 
 B. Plane the outsides. 
 
 4. A. Nail sides to ends. 
 
 B. Bevel upper edges to same pitch as the roof. 
 
 C. Plane the bottom of the ends and sides flush. 
 
 D. Sandpaper ends and sides. 
 
 5. A. Make bottom of the desired size. 
 
 B. Fit the ends and sides of the house to the bottom. 
 
 C. Nail the bottom on to the ends and sides of the house with 1|" 
 
 brads. 
 
 6. A. Cut both roof pieces to desired size. Plane outsides. 
 
 B. Nail the narrow roof board in its place. 
 
 C. Be sure that the tops of the gable and the top edge of the roof 
 
 board are exactly in line, or the other piece will not fit closely. 
 
 D. Nail the wide roof board in its place. 
 
 E. Smooth joint at ridge of roof, and sandpaper both roof boards 
 
 and their edges. 
 
 7. Make and fit chimney, and nail to its place. 
 
 8. Inspect for imperfect work, and correct defects. 
 
 9. Paint the house with two coats to suit. 
 
 Fig. 25. Glove Box. 
 
 New subject : Use of the miter box. 
 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut all pieces, making usual allowance for working. Cut the 
 
 top from a piece of straight-grained, soft wood, which will 
 make the carving easier. The triangular pieces that hold 
 the top in place should not be cut until the work is ready for 
 them. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Work pieces of the rim to required size by usual method. 
 B. Plane and sandpaper both sides of each piece. 
 
 2. Nail the pieces together ; the ends between the sides. Use f " 
 
 brads, and place the poorest side inside of the box/ 
 
 3. Finish the outside of the ends with sandpaper. Be careful not to 
 
86 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 
 i 
 
 rack the box in doing this. Do not sandpaper the top or bottom 
 edges of the rim. 
 
 A. Make the bottom of the box " longer and " wider than the 
 
 rim of the box. Measure from 
 the rim itself; do not take the 
 dimensions from the stock list. 
 B. The top, or the best side, should 
 receive a quarter round on all 
 edges. Be sure that the round 
 is true, and that it does not 
 extend on far enough to pre- 
 vent the rim from fitting the 
 bottom perfectly. 
 f'W. i* C. Plane and sandpaper the bottom. 
 
 D. Fit the rim to the bottom of the 
 
 box. It is important that 
 there should be a perfect joint 
 upon the outside, to insure 
 which, see C., Topic 84 C. 
 
 E. Be sure that the rim of the box 
 
 is square, and nail the bottom 
 to it with f" brads. 
 
 5. A. The dimensions of the top should 
 be ascertained in the same way 
 as those of the bottom. 
 B. Round all edges to make a 
 i thumb molding, or round 
 
 them under so that they 
 suggest the form of the 
 thumb when held with the 
 ball up. Insist upon the cor- 
 rect contour of the curves of 
 both the top and bottom. 
 C. Plane both sides of the top. Do not sandpaper. 
 
 6. Select a simple design for carving. Draw it carefully with a hard 
 
 pencil, and with tools in good order, proceed to cut the design. 
 
 7. See Ex. 6, Fig. 19. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 87 
 
 8. A. Cut triangular pieces from a piece f" wide. Make the cuts 
 as indicated in Fig. 25 A. Sandpaper them. 
 
 B. Find their exact location by laying the top bottom-side up on the 
 
 bench ; place the rim in its place upon the top while in this posi- 
 tion. Mark the two sides of the angle of each corner with a 
 sharp knife. Remove the 
 rim, and measure the 
 thickness of the rim in 
 from these marks. 
 
 C. Fasten the triangular blocks 
 
 in their places, using glue 
 very sparingly. 
 
 9. Plane top of rim to fit the un- 
 der side of the cover. 
 
 10. Inspect for defects. 
 
 11. Stain, color putty, shellac, or 
 
 wax to suit taste. 
 
 ' ! Jf 
 
 Fig. 26. Rod Towel Rack. 
 
 Wood : Poplar, or oak. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut out ends. To do this eco- 
 
 nomically, an approximate 
 pattern should be made. 
 
 D. Get out squares for the rods, 
 
 |" larger than required. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1 . Lay out the exact size and shape 
 
 of the ends, and work to the 
 lines. Keep the edges square 
 with the sides. 
 
 2. A. Locate and bore holes for 
 
 rods, boring right and left, 
 and only halfway through 
 the ends. 
 
 S 
 
 O 
 
88 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 B. Bore the holes in the ends to receive the screws. 
 
 3. A. Plane the rods to the required size. See Fig. 16, Ex. 5, B and C. 
 B. Cut them to required length. Be sure that the rods are no 
 
 smaller than they should be. 
 
 4. Plane and sandpaper the ends. 
 
 5. With a small stick, cover the sides of the holes sparingly with glue. 
 
 6. Put all the rods in at once; be sure that the ends are square 
 
 with them, both vertically and horizontally, when the rack is put 
 away for the glue to set. 
 
 7. Examine for defects, and remedy them. 
 
 8. Stain and finish to suit taste. 
 
 Fig. 27. Comer Shelf. 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Select a board of the desired 
 
 thickness, and of a width 
 at least equal to the ra- 
 dius of the arc of the front 
 of the shelf. 
 
 D. With a steel square, mark 
 
 the two back edges of the 
 shelf, so that the grain 
 will be parallel with the 
 chord of the front arc. 
 Hold the square as though 
 cutting an angle of 45, 
 its angle indicating the 
 center of the front arc. 
 
 E. Cut one piece of a size which 
 
 /> '& 27 
 
 will include the two back pieces with allowance for working 
 Exercises. 
 1. A. With compasses, draw the curve of the front of the shelf, anc 
 
 saw \" larger. 
 B. With the spokeshave, work the edge of the shelf to correct line, 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 89 
 
 2. Plane the back edges of the shelf square with each other and with 
 
 the face side. 
 
 3. A. Plane both top and bottom sides of the shelf. 
 
 B. With the spokeshave, take a few light shavings from each of the 
 corners of the front edge. 
 
 C. Sandpaper these corners to the form shown in the sketch. 
 
 4. A. Make backs of required dimensions. 
 B. Plane and sandpaper. 
 
 5. Nail backs in place. Set nails. 
 
 6. Remedy defects. 
 
 7. Stain, color putty for nail holes, and finish to suit taste. 
 
 Fig. 28. Wall Pocket. 
 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 
 Preparatory : Same as hi Fig. 1. Apply to each piece. 
 
 A. Make stock list. 
 
 B. Cut pieces for carvings first. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Work all pieces to required dimensions and form, designing 
 original details where possible. 
 
90 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 2. Plane pieces which are to be carved. 
 
 3. Draw' simple design for carving, and proceed to cut both pieces. 
 
 4. A. Plane and sandpaper the end, partition, and bottom pieces. 
 B. Sandpaper carved front and back. 
 
 5. Nail together with f " brads. Set nails. 
 
 6. Remedy defects. 
 
 7. Stain and finish. Color putty for nail holes. 
 
 Fig. 29. Sleeve Board. 
 
 New subjects: Wedged pin. Scribing (See C. C. Topic 79). Scraper. 
 
 Wood: Oak and poplar. 
 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut all pieces as needed. Make allowance for working. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Make base of required dimensions. 
 
 B. Bore holes for pins of standards. 
 
 C. With a round file, make the holes a little longer on the under 
 
 side of the bottom, to allow the wedge to expand the pin. 
 
 D. Plane top and bottom sides of the base. 
 
 2. Make standards, with pins which fit the holes of the base closely. 
 
 Do not cut the tops of the standards off. Leave pins a little 
 longer than required. The standards should be long enough to 
 allow several attempts at fitting the shoulder, if necessary. 
 
 3. A. Place the pins of the standards in their holes, and see if the shoul- 
 
 ders fit the back perfectly ; if they do not, proceed as follows : 
 
 B. " Scribing." Push the pin into the hole until the shoulder stops 
 
 against the back. 
 
 C. Lay a scraper, or piece of wood a little thicker than the greatest 
 
 opening of the joint, upon the bottom close to the standard. 
 
 D. Make a knife mark around the standard, being guided by the 
 
 thickness of the piece described in C above. See Fig. 29 A. 
 
 E. With a sharp chisel, cut exactly to these marks, being sure that 
 
 the wood of the inside of the shoulder is shorter than at the 
 surface. If this is done accurately, a perfect joint will result. 
 
 F. Repeat this process with the other standard. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 G. Mark the center of 
 the holes in the 
 standards which 
 are to receive 
 the skeins of 
 the axle. Bore 
 them partially 
 through. 
 
 H. Make the tops of 
 the standards of 
 the desired form. 
 I. With the hacksaw, 
 make a cut the 
 entire length of 
 the pin of each 
 standard, in the 
 center of the 
 pin, and at right 
 angles with the 
 width of the 
 standard. This 
 is to receive the 
 wedge. 
 
 J. Plane, scrape, and 
 sandpaper the 
 standards. 
 
 4. A. Make the axle of 
 oak. The shoul- 
 ders and skeins 
 must fit the 
 standards. These 
 must be held in 
 place tempora- 
 rily while the axle 
 is being fitted. 
 
 B. Plane, scrape, and 
 sandpaper. 
 
92 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 5. A. Make sleeve board of the required size and form. 
 
 B. Plane and sandpaper. 
 
 C. Fasten the axle to the sleeve board by the method indicated. 
 
 6. Scrape and sandpaper the top side of the bottom, and round the 
 top corner. 
 
 7. A. Enter the skeins of the axle in the standards, and put the pins 
 
 of the standards through the holes in the base. 
 B. Fasten the standards permanently by wedges, which will force 
 the pins to fill the elongated holes. Use glue sparingly. A 
 wedge used for this purpose must be placed at right angles 
 with the grain surrounding the hole which contains the pin. 
 Generally it should be of the same kind of wood. 
 
 8. Plane the ends of the pins flush with the underside of the bottom. It 
 
 is unnecessary to do anything more to this side. 
 
 9. Make the two pieces for the support of poplar. 
 
 10. Remedy defects. 
 
 11. Shellac all but the poplar sleeve board, which will be covered 
 
 with cloth before it is used. 
 
 Fig. 30. Cart. 
 
 Wood : Poplar, maple, or oak. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut a piece \" wider than height of rim, and long enough to in- 
 
 clude the four pieces. 
 
 D. Cut bottom \" longer and \" wider than desired. 
 
 E. Get out pieces for the wheels \" larger than required. 
 
 F. Hard wood for the axle, \" wider and \" longer than required. 
 
 G. Maple or oak for tongue, I" larger in square, and I" longer than 
 
 required. 
 H. Make piece for cross handle long enough to grasp while working 
 
 it down to dimensions. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Same as Exs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 in Fig. 1, applied to each piece of the 
 
 rim. 
 
 2. Plane these pieces on both sides. The poorer side will go inside of 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 93 
 
 the box, and should be sandpapered before the rim is nailed 
 together. Guard against sandpapering the ends of either piece. 
 3. A. Nail the rim together, the short ends between the sides. 
 
 Use four 1|" brads to each corner. 
 
 B. Plane the bottom of the rim perfectly straight to fit the bottom 
 of the body. See C., Topic 84 C. 
 
 4. A. Plane one edge of the bottom straight. 
 
 B. Plane and sandpaper the best side. 
 
 C. Nail planed edge to the bottom, the best side on the inside of 
 
 the body. The grain should extend lengthwise. 
 
 D. Be sure that the rim is square, and nail the bottom all around. 
 
 5. A. Plane the edges of the bottom flush with the rim. 
 
 B. Make the ends of the rim and the ends of the sides flush. 
 
 6. A. Mark the wheels to the exact size; in sawing, leave \" for 
 
 working. 
 
 B. Bore holes for skein; be sure that they are square with the 
 
 sides of the wheel. 
 
 C. Smooth edge line with spokeshave and wood file. 
 
 D. Plane and sandpaper the sides of the wheels, but not the 
 
 edges. 
 
94 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 7. Work the axle to required dimensions. Be especially careful that 
 
 the skeins are made accurately. This will be the most difficult 
 part of the work. 
 
 8. Fasten the axle to the box by means of screws through the 
 
 bottom. 
 
 9. A. Work the tongue to required dimensions. 
 
 B. Fit it to the axle and body. 
 
 C. Bore the hole for the cross handle. 
 
 D. Make the handle round, and cut to length. Fasten it in place. 
 
 10. A. Remove wheels from the body. 
 
 B. Plane the top of the rim, and sandpaper it. 
 
 C. Sandpaper the outside of the rim. 
 
 D. Fasten the tongue in its place. 
 
 11. Put on the wheels. Make and fit the linchpin. 
 
 12. Remedy defects. 
 
 13. Smooth sharp and ragged corners by touching them lightly with 
 
 sandpaper. 
 
 14. Finish with shellac, if any finish is desired. 
 
 This model sometimes is made in the lower grades by using \" 
 and \" material. 
 
 Fig. 31. Towel Roller. 
 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut piece for the back, one piece for the two brackets, and one 
 
 for the roller, I" larger than required. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Make the back of desired shape and size. 
 
 2. A. Make brackets of size indicated, but of original detail. 
 
 B. Bore holes in the brackets to make them right and left. Cut 
 
 the groove in the right-hand bracket, which allows the roller 
 to enter. 
 
 C. Bore screw holes in the back for the brackets. 
 
 D. Fasten the brackets on temporarily. 
 
 3. A. Remove brackets from the back. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 95 
 
 B. Plane both sides of the back. 
 
 C. Draw design for carving. 
 
 D. Put tools in order and cut the design. 
 
 4. A. Sandpaper the face side of the back, and both sides of the 
 
 brackets. 
 B. Fasten brackets on permanently. Use glue sparingly. 
 
 5. A. Work roller to the required size, and perfectly round. Use 
 
 smoothing or block plane to finish it. Cut to exact length. 
 B. Mark size of pin on end to fit holes in bracket. 
 
 C. Locate shoulders. Wind a piece of straight-edged paper around 
 the roller, the straight edge just touching the point which 
 indicates the shoulder. Mark around the roller by the edge 
 of the paper. Cut the shoulder with a backsaw, as far as 
 the pin described in B. Finish the pin with a knife or with a 
 sharp chisel. 
 
 Remedy defects. 
 
 Sandpaper the roller. 
 
 Stain, shellac, or wax to suit taste. 
 
 Fig. 32. Knife Box. 
 
 New subjects : Squaring by diagonals (See W., Topic 88 E.). Grooving 
 
 or housing. 
 Wood ; Pine, or poplar. 
 
96 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Preparatory: After the working draw- 
 ing and stock list have been 
 made, cut all pieces as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Work sides and ends to required 
 
 dimensions. 
 
 2. Make halved cuts at ends of sides 
 
 to receive the ends. 
 
 3. Cut grooves in the center of the 
 
 insides of the ends to receive the 
 ends of the handle or partition. 
 To insure a good fit, these 
 grooves should be made a little 
 smaller, not a measurable dis- 
 tance, but enough smaller to 
 make it necessary to use a little 
 force to push the partition into 
 its place. Mark by the piece 
 which is to fit in, remembering 
 that it will be a little thinner 
 after it has been planed on 
 both sides. 
 
 4. A. Plane these pieces on both sides 
 
 and sandpaper the insides. 
 B. Nail them together, using 1" 
 and 1J" brads. Nail the 
 corners both ways. Be sure 
 that the grooves are on the 
 inside, and that the box is 
 square when this part of the 
 work is completed. Square 
 by diagonals, and tack on 
 a small piece to hold it 
 square. See W., Topic 34 B. 
 
 5. A. Make the bottom 1" longer 
 
 and I" wider than the rim 
 of the box. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 97 
 
 B. Plane the edge to a quarter round. Maintain a good full curve. 
 
 See Fig. 25, Ex. 4 B. 
 
 C. Plane and sandpaper. 
 
 6. Plane the bottom of the rim to fit the bottom of the box. 
 
 7. Nail the bottom to the rim of the box. 
 
 8. Plane the top of the rim, and sandpaper it. 
 
 Remove the ragged edges by touching it 
 lightly with sandpaper. 
 
 9. A. Cut the partition to just the right length 
 
 to fill the grooves prepared for it. 
 
 B. Make original design for the handle. 
 
 C. Plane sides and sandpaper. 
 
 D. Finish edges accurately to desired form. 
 
 E. Fasten in place with glue and 1" brads. 
 
 Use glue sparingly. 
 
 10. Remedy defects. 
 
 11. Stain and finish as desired. Color putty for 
 
 the nail holes. 
 
 Fig. 33. Paper Knife. 
 
 Wood : Maple. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Plane to exact width. Both edges straight 
 
 and square. 
 
 2. A. Draw the shape of the knife. 
 
 B. Bore holes in handle ; cut out between them. 
 
 C. Shape the outside of the knife to lines. 
 
 3. With a sharp knife, or outside gouge of the 
 
 same curve, cut the curve at the end of the 
 handle where it joins the blade. Guard 
 against cutting too deep. 
 
 4. With rasp and smoothing plane, work the 
 
 blade down to the required thickness, finish- 
 ing one side first, but not making the edge 
 sharp. Be sure that the contour of the , ~ 9 , 
 
 ends of the handle is accurately preserved. 
 
 C 
 
 ^3^\ 
 
 s 
 
 N X 
 
 K X^ 
 
 
 H X 
 
 [K x ' 
 
 
 N M > 
 
 h 
 
 N H 
 
 
 [K x 
 
 
 K Xi 
 
 
 x x| 
 
 
 X X 
 
 
98 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 5. Secure a piece of pasteboard, or thin wood, of a thickness equal to 
 
 the amount of wood cut away in Ex. 4. Place this under the blade 
 to give it stiffness, while the other side of the blade is being 
 worked down to make it of the proper thickness. Make both 
 sides of the blade free of inequalities. 
 
 6. A. Work the blade down to a sharp edge, which must be in the 
 
 center of the thickness of the blade. 
 B. Plane and scrape the handle, and the blade if necessary. 
 
 7. With a hard, sharp pencil, lay out a simple design for carving. 
 One or both sides may be carved. Make shallow cuts, as the 
 
 figures will have to be small. 
 
 8. Remedy defects. 
 
 9. Finish with two coats of shellac, and oil. Natural color. 
 
 Fig. 34. Picture Frame. 
 
 New subject : Cutting a rabbet. 
 Wood : Cherry, or poplar. 
 
 Preparatory: Decide size of frame. 
 all pieces. 
 
 Preparatory of Fig. 1, applied to 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 99 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1 . Work the pieces of the frame to required size. 
 
 2. Make lock joints. See C., Topic 61. 
 
 3. Cut rabbets in back of opening. 
 
 4. A. Smooth and sandpaper the edges, being careful not to touch 
 
 the wood at the joint. 
 B. Glue together. Use the glue sparingly. 
 
 Be sure that the face of the frame is out of wind when the frame 
 is set away for the glue to harden. 
 
 5. A. With a smoothing plane, plane the face and the back. 
 
 B. Scrape the face and the back, and make both ready for 
 the sandpaper. In both of the above, smooth the back 
 first, as that will minimize the danger of scratching the 
 face. 
 
 6. With a hard pencil, draw a simple carving design. 
 
 7. See that tools are perfectly sharp, and cut design. 
 
 8. Make the back to required dimensions. 
 
 9. Sandpaper frame, and plane and sandpaper the back. 
 
 10. Remedy defects. 
 
 11. Finish as desired. 
 
 12. Fasten the back on temporarily with small brads. 
 
 Fig- 35- Folding Towel Rack. 
 
 Wood : Poplar. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1, applied to all pieces. Make stock list. 
 
 The brackets should be included in one piece. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Make and finish back of size and shape required. Be sure that the 
 
 chamfer is the same on all sides. 
 
 2. Bore holes in the back for the pins of the bracket. 
 
 3. A. Lay out a shoulder and pin on each end of the piece prepared 
 
 for the brackets, or standards. 
 
 B. Cut each shoulder, and fit it to the back. Brackets fitted to 
 back by the same method used in Fig. 28, Exs. 2 and 3, 
 omitting F, G, H, and I of Ex. 3. 
 
 4. A. Make the brackets of the required shape and size. 
 
 B. Bore the holes for the pin which supports the arms, about $" 
 
100 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 deep. Be sure that the holes are made in the sides of the 
 bracket that face each other. 
 
 5. Make the arms of the required size and shape, so that when they 
 
 are in their places, there will be no play. 
 
 6. Bore the holes in the arms for the pin upon which they swing. 
 These should be bored with the utmost accuracy, so that 
 
 the arm will swing horizontally. Finish top of standard or 
 bracket. 
 
 7. Make the pin upon which the arm swings to pass just through 
 
 the hole, not a tight fit, but loose enough to allow the arm to 
 move. 
 
 8. See Fig. 28, Ex. 1 C. 
 
 9. Plane and sandpaper everything except the back and the edges of 
 
 the back. 
 
 10. A. Pass the pin through the arms and into the holes made to 
 
 receive them in the brackets or standards. 
 B. See Fig. 28, Ex. 7 B. 
 
 11. A. See Fig. 28, Ex. 8. 
 
 B. Sandpaper the edges and the chamfer. 
 
 C. Inspect for defects and remedy. 
 
 12. Stain and finish as desired. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 Fig. 36. Letter Box. 
 
 New subjects : Cutting in hinges. Hinges. 
 
 101 
 
 Wood : Poplar, or oak. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1, applied to all pieces. Make stock list. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Make all pieces of the required shape and size. Original designs 
 preferred. 
 
102 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Do not bevel the top of the header, or the piece which is above 
 the door. 
 
 2. A. Plane and sandpaper all pieces. 
 
 B. Fasten them in their places with 1" brads, and with glue used 
 sparingly. Hold sides in place while nailing through the back 
 into them. 
 
 3. After the header is in place, bevel the top to the same pitch as the 
 
 top of the sides. 
 
 4. A. Make the top of size and shape required. 
 
 B. Bevel the top edge to fit the back. 
 
 C. Nail it in its place. Be sure that the nails through the back into 
 
 the top are not long enough to interfere in cutting the letter hole. 
 
 D. Cut the letter hole. Nail through the back into the top. 
 
 5. A. Make bracket of required size, and of original design. 
 B. Fasten it in its place with glue and nails. 
 
 G. A. Make the door to fit closely between the bottom and header. 
 B. Cut the thickness of the hinges in the edges of the sides. This 
 gives more wood in the door to receive the screws. If the 
 door does not swing exactly in its place, the hinges may be 
 moved a little by placing the screw to one side of the hole in 
 one side of the hinge, so that it will push the hinge in the 
 direction desired. 
 
 7. Inspect for defects, and remedy. 
 
 8. Stain and finish as desired. 
 
 Fig. 37. Foot Rest. See C, Topic 83. 
 
 Wood : Oak, ash, or elm. Poplar or basswood top, if it is not uphol- 
 stered. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1, applied to each piece as it is wanted. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Make each piece of required dimensions. 
 
 B. Do not block-plane either end of the legs. 
 
 C. Plane all sides of each piece. 
 
 2. A. Cut the notches for the halved and locked joints. 
 
 Measure directly from the pieces which are to make the joint, 
 
 not from dimensions taken by the rule. 
 B. With a sharp gauge, make the depth cuts of all pieces. Take 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 103 
 
 out \" from each piece which is to form the joint. (The work- 
 man always tries to make all marks that are alike with one 
 setting of the gauge. This is, in general, the method which 
 should be followed.) 
 
 These marks should be made a trifle smaller than actually desired, * 
 to insure a close fit, but not so close that the pieces will be 
 bruised in bringing the joint together. 
 3. Scrape and sandpaper all the pieces, and glue them together. 
 
 4. If an upholstered top is desired, the top board may be of any 
 
 wood, which may be nailed to the end rails. If a top of the same 
 wood as the rest is wanted, it may be fastened by screws through 
 the end rails, or by one of the methods of doweling explained in 
 C, Topic 69 C. 
 
 5. Remedy defects. 
 
 6. Stain and finish as desired. 
 
 7. If the top is to be upholstered, the filling of the cushion should be 
 
 put in place and held there by a coarse cover, before the model 
 is finished, after which the leather or cloth may be fitted and 
 fastened by ornamental upholstery nails. 
 
 Fig. 38. Toilet Case. 
 
 New subjects : Moldings. Bead plane. Clamps. 
 Wood : Poplar, elm, or butternut. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1, applied to cutting each piece as it is 
 wanted. 
 
104 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Mark face side, and plane one edge of the stiles square with 
 it. Leave ends longer than required. 
 
 r#: 
 
 v/r-1 
 
 fc5i 
 
 /^ 
 
 ^/ 
 
 ft/! 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 c 
 i 
 
 
 
 ETj 
 
 cd 
 
 ::^ 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 ? 
 
 / ^ x" 
 
 
 
 
 
 //^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 
 
 
 
 / ^<y 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ^-^.A 
 
 r 
 
 
 Jil 
 
 /? 
 
 
 LL 
 
 
 -"*' 
 
 i 
 
 B. Mark face side and plane one edge of the top rail, and one 
 edge each of the middle and bottom rails. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 105 
 
 C. Mark with knife, cut, and block-plane one end of each rail to 
 
 make a square joint against one of the stiles. 
 
 D. Mark with a knife, cut, and block-plane the three rails to exact 
 
 length required, so that the other end of them will make a 
 square joint against the other stile. 
 
 E. Plane the other edge of the middle and bottom rails. 
 
 F. Make the joints of the frame with two f " dowels. See C, Topic 
 
 69 A. 
 
 Allow the stiles to project indefinitely beyond the top and 
 bottom rails, being sure that enough is allowed at the bottom 
 for the piece that projects below. 
 
 2. Glue frame together. Keep faces of rails and stiles flush by using 
 
 hand screws. Hold together by clamps until the glue has set. 
 
 3. A. Plane the face and the back of frame roughly, to remove glue. 
 
 B. Plane the edges. 
 
 C. Cut the top ends of the stile off flush with the top of the top 
 
 rail, and square it to receive the cap. 
 
 D. Cut bottom of the stiles off to the required length and block 
 
 plane. 
 
 E. Cut the rabbet in the middle and bottom rails, and the stiles 
 
 to receive the back of the brush case. 
 
 F. Smooth the face of the frame. Sandpaper. See W, Topic 68 D. 
 
 4. A. Make the top shelf of given dimensions. Plane and sandpaper. 
 B. Fasten it to the back with screws. Be sure that it is square 
 
 with the face of the back. 
 
 5. A. Make the bottom shelf of the given dimensions. 
 B. Plane and sandpaper it. 
 
 6. A. Make the brackets of the given dimensions, and from original 
 
 design. 
 
 B. Fit them to the back and top shelf. The top of the brackets 
 should be grooved into the under side of the top shelf, if 
 the best job is desired, but it will be satisfactory to some if 
 the shelf rests squarely upon the top of the brackets, and is 
 nailed with 1 \" brads. However, if the brackets are fitted 
 squarely against the top shelf, the workmanlike way to fasten 
 them is to make a doweled joint, by one of the methods ex- 
 plained in C, Topic 69 C. 
 
106 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 C. Cut the grooves in the brackets for the bottom shelves. 
 
 D. Fasten the brackets and the lower shelf together with glue and 
 
 a hand screw, and to the frame with screws through the back. 
 The joint with the top shelf should be made at the same 
 tune. 
 
 7. A. With a \" bead plane, make the glass beads, and plane them all 
 
 to a uniform width and thickness. Cut the beads with a 
 bead plane, as shown in Fig. 38 A. Saw them, as indicated, 
 plane, and sandpaper. (Drill upon a scrap in the use of the 
 bead plane. The pressure should be exerted lightly in the 
 direction indicated by the arrow.) 
 
 B. Miter glass beads in the frame, flush with the face, and nail it 
 with f" brads. 
 
 8. A. Make the cap of the desired dimensions. 
 
 B. Plane and sandpaper. 
 
 C. Nail it in place, or fasten it by dowels if preferred. 
 
 9. Miter a small molding under it. (May be secured at any mill.) 
 
 10. Cut the back to the required size, and nail it in its place. 
 
 11. Make the flap of suitable size to fit its opening closely. 
 
 12. Cut in the hinges. Use the gauge to obtain the depth of the cu1 
 
 for the thickness of the hinge, which should all be cut out oJ 
 the flap. 
 
 13. Smooth and sandpaper the flap. 
 
 14. Put the hinges in the flap so that a little more than half of the 
 
 round of the hinge will project beyond its face. 
 
 15. A. By careful measurement with the dividers or compasses, fine 
 
 the centers of the screw in the underside of the top. 
 B. By manipulating the screw holes to one side or the other oJ 
 the center line, the hinge may be pushed in or out or end- 
 ways, to make the flap hang just as it should. 
 
 16. Cut strips to hold the mirror in from the back, or cut a backboarc 
 
 of \" material to cover the entire back. This latter is prefer 
 able, though not shown on the sketch. 
 
 17. Inspect carefully, and remedy defects. 
 
 18. Stain and finish as desired. 
 
 19. Secure a suitable flat hook, and place on the under edge of th< 
 
 flap. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 107 
 
 Fig. 39. Drawing Board. See C, Topic 86. 
 
 New subjects : Gluing a wide board. Warping of a wide board. Its 
 
 effect minimized. Traverse planing. 
 Wood : Pine and maple, or oak. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. 
 
 B. Make stock list. 
 
 C. Cut pieces for the board, not over 3|" wide, which will make 
 
 the desired width after jointing and finishing. 
 
 D. Cut cleat from maple or oak. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Joint the pieces together. Read carefully C, Topic 86 A. See 
 
 also C, Topic 54. 
 
 Use I" dowels. Mark for them by the method shown in C, Fig. 
 110. 
 
108 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 2. A. Glue the board together. Put the glue in the dowel holes 
 
 not on the dowels, and along the entire length of both sidei 
 of the joint. Use clamps to bring the joints up, and hole 
 them while the glue is setting. , 
 
 B. If the board is not perfectly straight across its face when th< 
 clamps are on, make it straight with hand screws and straight 
 edges. 
 
 3. A. Scrape off the surplus glue from each side of the board, am 
 
 traverse plane the back side; that is, plane it crossways diago 
 nally to straighten it. Plane it lengthways to make it smooth 
 B. Joint one edge of the board, and cut it roughly to the desire< 
 size. 
 
 4. A. In the cleats, bore holes of a size that will allow a 1" No. ! 
 
 screw to slip through without catching. These holes shoul< 
 be placed so that the screws will not enter a joint in^th 
 board. 
 
 B. The holes should be elongated upon the side of the cleat whicl 
 comes next to the board, to allow the board to shrink an< 
 swell, and still hold it straight. 
 Do not glue the cleat to the board. 
 
 5. A. Traverse plane the top. 
 
 B. Plane it lengthways. Make it perfectly straight and smooth. 
 
 6. A. Joint the edges perfectly straight, and make the board exactl; 
 
 square. 
 
 B. Prove it by measuring the diagonals. 
 
 C. Sandpaper crossways, -diagonally, and lengthways. 
 
 7. Remedy defects. 
 
 8. Shellac finish, if any finish is desired. 
 
 Fig. 40. T Square. See C, Topic 87. 
 
 New subject : Making a straight edge. See C, Topic 50. 
 
 Wood : Maple, or mahogany. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1, applied to each piece. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Make the head of required shape and size. Be sure that the edg 
 
 is perfectly straight and square. 
 
 2. Make the tongue straight and parallel. See C, Topic 50. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 109 
 
 3. A. Plane, scrape, and sandpaper the head and the tongue. 
 B. Bore a |" hole in the tongue. See Fig. 2, Ex. 6. 
 
 . T 
 
 JL 
 
 4. A. Glue the tongue to the head at an exact right angle. While 
 
 the glue is setting, hold it in place with a hand screw, which 
 must bear evenly over all the joint. 
 
 B. After the glue has set, put five f " No. 3 flathead bright screws 
 
 through the tongue into the head. 
 
 C. Remedy defects. 
 
 5. Finish with two coats of shellac, rubbed in oil. 
 
 A more elaborate piece of work may be made by gluing a narrow 
 strip of ebony or white holly on the working edge of the head, 
 and on each edge of the tongue. 
 
 Fig. 41. Dovetailed Bookrack. See C, Topic 92. 
 
 New subject : Dovetailing. 
 Wood : Oak, or poplar. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 A. Make working drawing. Cut a piece long enough to include 
 
 all three pieces, with a working allowance of 3". 
 Exercises. 
 I. A. Plane one edge straight, and both ends square with the face 
 
 side and edge. 
 
 B. From each end cut one piece f" longer than is required for the 
 
 end of the book rack. This allows for the possibility that the 
 first attempt at dovetailing may not be successful. 
 
110 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 2. Block-plane each 
 
 end of the remain- 
 ing piece square 
 with the face side 
 and edge. This is 
 long enough to 
 allow the student 
 to make one un- 
 successful at- 
 tempt at dovetailing upon each end, and still keep his work up tc 
 size. It should be a matter of pride to the student to finish this 
 model as much larger than required as possible, as it is an evi- 
 dence of skillful work. 
 
 3. See C, Topic 78. Remember that all ends to be joined should 
 
 be squared and gauged at once. The back edges of the pieces 
 have not been planed yet to their exact dimensions ; conse- 
 quently, in laying out the dovetails, the line to which the pieces 
 are to be dressed must be marked, and the dovetails planned 
 to be the same distance from each edge, after the model is 
 finished. Do not try the pieces together more than is necessary, 
 as it makes the joints loose. 
 
 4. After the joints are satisfactorily completed, cut the ends tc 
 
 conform to an original design, and plane the bottom to width. 
 
 5. A. Plane and sandpaper the inside of the ends and the bottom, 
 
 being careful that as little as possible is taken off of the pins 
 of the latter, as this tends to make the joint loose. The 
 plane cut should begin at the bottom of the pins. 
 
 6. Using glue sparingly, so that it will not squeeze out on the in- 
 
 side, put the pieces together; use a hammer very judiciously 
 upon a piece of scrap wood, to prevent bruising and to minimize 
 the danger of splitting the end. 
 Be sure that the ends stand perfectly square with the bottom. 
 
 7. After the glue is set, plane (scrape, if oak is used) and sandpaper 
 
 the outside of the bookrack. Be sure that the plane is carried 
 from the ends on to the piece, instead of the reverse, or the wood 
 will be broken off the same as in injudicious block-planing. 
 
 8. A. Smooth edges of the bottom and the ends, 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 111 
 
 B. Inspect for blemishes, and correct them. 
 9. Stain and finish as desired. 
 
 Fig. 42. Plate Rack. 
 
 New subjects : Wedged construction. Router plane. 
 
 Wood : Oak, elm, or cherry. 
 
 Preparatory: Same as in Fig. 1, applied to all pieces. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Work ends to desired shape. Do not plane the ends. 
 
 B. Select the best sides for the outsides, and lay out carefully the 
 
 exact location of the grooves which are to receive the shelves. 
 Be sure that the grooves are a little smaller than the thick- 
 ness of the shelves. Mark with a knife. 
 
 C. Locate the mortises through which the tenons of the shelves 
 
 lEMflsr 
 o 
 
 * 
 
 _^- 
 
 .u 
 
 -J'^- 
 
 are to pass, and from the lines denoting the grooves, square 
 across the edges of the piece to the outside. Knife lines 
 should now be made across the top and bottom of the mortise, 
 but not across the rest of the outside of the end, as they 
 will show when the piece is finished. The top and bottom 
 of the mortises on the outside of the end must be exactly 
 square with the corresponding lines of the grooves on the 
 inside. 
 
112 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 D. Cut the mortises nearly through from the outside, beginning 
 
 by boring with a bit about I" less in diameter than the 
 thickness of the shelf. Be sure that the wood in the mortises 
 is cut away so that the tenons which extend through will 
 bear only upon the inside and outside of the ends. See 
 C, Topic 90 A. 
 
 E. Cut the grooves in the inside of the end \" deep. Do not 
 
 allow them to extend within V' of the front edge of either 
 piece. 
 Use a router plane to insure accurate depth to each groove. 
 
 F. Cut the rabbets to receive the backboards in the inside corners 
 
 of the ends. 
 
 2. A. Cut shelves to the required width and length, including tenons. 
 
 B. Block-plane the ends square with the edge and sides. 
 
 C. Mark sides of the tenons on the ends of the shelves by laying 
 
 their ends against the mortises in the ends of the rack into 
 which they are to fit with the front edges of the shelves in 
 their exact relation with the front edge of the ends. Number 
 the shelves and mortises so that the pieces may be returned 
 to the places for which they are fitted. Mark with a knife, 
 and saw a little outside of the marks, to allow for smooth- 
 ing the edges of the tenons. 
 
 3. A. Lay the shelves together with edges and ends flush. 
 
 B. Hold them with hand screws. 
 
 C. Measure the required distance between the insides of the ends 
 
 of the plate rack, and lay it off equidistant from the ends of 
 the shelves. 
 
 D. Make the knife line by a try-square across the front edges of 
 
 the shelves as they are held in one bunch. This is impor- 
 tant, as it is necessary that all the shelves should be exactly 
 the same length between the lines which indicate the shoul- 
 ders, or the visible part of the connection between the shelf 
 and the end. 
 
 E. With a backsaw, make the cut for the shoulder, square with 
 
 the face edge, and to a depth of V' from it. See C, Fig. 139. 
 
 F. Take off the hand screws. Measure about //' beyond the 
 
 shoulder of each end of each shelf, from which point make 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 113 
 
 a line from the front to the back of the shelf. This line, 
 where it does not cross a tenon, indicates the end of the shelf 
 that rests against the bottom of the groove. 
 
 G. Cut carefully to this line with a saw, ano! no more finishing 
 will be needed. 
 
 4. A. Plane shelves and ends. 
 
 B. Cut grooves in shelves between the ends. Use a gouge for 
 this purpose. 
 
 5. A. Mark holes in the tenons for wedges. 
 
 B. Make the outside of the holes in the tenons of the same slant as 
 
 the wedge that it is to receive; the inside of the holes, or the 
 side nearest the base of the tenons, should be about \" inside 
 of the ends when they are in place. See section. This is to 
 allow the force of the wedge to pull the shoulder of the shelf 
 against the end, to assist which, the part of the shelf which 
 enters the groove is ^" less than the depth of the groove. 
 
 C. Make the wedges about three times as long as they should be, 
 
 so that they may be fitted, and afterward cut off to their 
 correct length. 
 
 6. Fit the tenons to the mortises for which they have been cut. If 
 
 they are too tight, take a little from the mortise, being very 
 careful that no more is taken off than will allow the tenon to 
 come through snugly. 
 
 7. Plane, scrape, and sandpaper all pieces. 
 
 8. A. Set up case permanently. Use glue on the shoulders only. 
 
 B. Hold joints together with clamps until wedges are fitted. 
 
 C. After the wedges are fitted, they should be cut off so that they 
 
 will project about I" above and below the shelf. 
 
 D. Sandpaper wedges. 
 
 E. Place a little glue on the end of the rack where the wedge will 
 
 cover it, not enough to squeeze out, and drive the wedge 
 into its permanent place. 
 
 9. Fit back rails, smooth, scrape, and' sandpaper, and nail them in 
 
 their places from the back. 
 
 10. Examine for defects and remedy them. 
 
 11. Stain and finish as desired. If it is thought best to fill this 
 
 model, see W, Topic 69. 
 
114 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Fig. 43. Screen Frame. 
 New subject: Mortise joint. 
 Wood: Oak. 
 Preparatory. 
 
 Same as in Fig. 1. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. Make stiles and rails of size required ; use straight stock. 
 
 2. A. Lay stiles side by side, inside edges up and faces together. 
 
 Mark the ends of mortises with sharp pencil. 
 
 B. Lay rails edge to edge, face side up, and measure length between 
 shoulders, which should be equidistant from the ends of the 
 piece. Square all around the piece with sharp knife. 
 3. A. Working from the face side with a mortise gauge, mark the two 
 
 edges and the end of the tenon. 
 B. Without changing the set of the gauge, lay out the sides of 
 
 the mortises on the stiles. 
 
 (If a single gauge instead of a mortise gauge is used, make 
 the first scratch on all tenons and mortises without changing 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 115 
 
 the set. Then change for the second cut, and make it all 
 around.) 
 
 Be sure that no scratches are carried beyond the shoulders of 
 the rails nor the ends of the mortise, or they will show on 
 the finished work. 
 C. Cut mortises and tenons as in C, Topic 65. 
 
 4. 1" above the bottom mortise, and the same distance below the top 
 
 mortise, bore a f" hole to receive a brass curtain rod or a dowel. 
 
 5. Cut a tenon |" thick, 1|" wide, and $" long upon the end of each 
 
 stile. 
 
 6. A. Glue the frame together ; be sure that it is out of wind when 
 
 it is stood away for the glue to set, or it will be permanently 
 twisted. 
 B. Plane, scrape, and sandpaper both sides of the frame. 
 
 7. A. Make the feet of the size and shape required. 
 
 B. Cut the mortise to receive the tenon of the frame stiles. 
 
 C. Plane, scrape, and sandpaper. 
 
 D. Glue the foot to the frame. Be sure that each is square with 
 
 the stile to which it is glued. 
 
 8. A. Make braces to original design. 
 
 B. Fit them to their places. 
 
 C. Mark for, and bore f" holes for dowels for the frame, and cor- 
 
 responding holes in the braces. 
 
 D. Bore holes in the feet for screws, which hold the bottom of 
 
 the braces. Plane, scrape, and sandpaper. 
 
 E. If a straight angle is used like the sketch, glue angle blocks on 
 
 them to receive the hand screw which will hold them in place 
 while the glue is setting. See C, Topic 70. 
 
 F. After the glue on the angle blocks has set, fit dowels. Use 
 
 glue on the joints sparingly, and hold in place by screws 
 through the feet, and by hand screws at the top. 
 
 G. After the glue has set, remove hand screws and take off 
 
 angles carefully, or the brace will be damaged. 
 H. Clean off the glue, and inspect for blemishes. 
 
 9. Stain and finish to suit taste. 
 
 The opening may be filled with a solid panel, covered with 
 cloth, or by a silk curtain, if preferred. 
 
116 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 Fig. 44. Bookcase. 
 Wood: Oak. 
 
 Preparatory: Make working drawing and stock list. Cut all pieces 
 to required dimensions, making allowance for working. 
 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. Make ends of desired shape and size. Do not waste time ii 
 
 block-planing bottom of ends, as they rest on the floor. 
 B. Same as Ex. 1 B of Fig. 42. 
 
 Complete the model by the same exercises and progression a; 
 described in Fig. 42. The only important adaptations nee 
 essary will be in Ex. 1 E, in which the grooves should bi 
 made &" deep. In Ex. 3 F, ^" should be made \". 
 
 Ex. 3 G should read: cut from the front and back edge 
 to the tenons with a saw, and cut out the space between thi 
 tenons with a frame or turning saw. Begin this cut wit! 
 a hole made by an auger bit large enough to start the saw. 
 
 Fig. 45. Table. Fig. 46. Detail. 
 
 New subject : Draw boring. See W, Topic 65 C. 
 
 Wood : Oak. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 
 
 117 
 
 Preparatory: Make working drawing and stock list. Cut necessary 
 pieces, making usual allowance for working. 
 
 In cutting the material for the top, 1|" boards may be used, 
 or thicker material, if desired. 
 
 The appearance of thickness may be secured without the 
 expense or the weight of using the thicker stock, as follows : 
 Cut the material for the top from I" stock, and glue 
 it in the ordinary way, making a doweled glue joint. Cut 
 the top to its required size roughly, and straighten the under 
 side across the ends by traverse planing. Glue pieces 
 
 about 5" wide and as long as the top on the under side of 
 the top, flush with the edges. Cut pieces 5" long, and enough 
 in width to fill in between these edge pieces, and glue them 
 flush with the end of the top. The whole may now be treated 
 as though the entire top were glued of thick material. 
 Exercises. 
 
 1. A. The legs and rails should be made of solid oak. Allow a 
 tenon of about 2J" on the end of each rail to enter the legs. 
 B. Cut shoulders and tenons on the ends of each rail, marking 
 them by the mortise gauge. 
 
118 
 
 KING'S HANDBOOK FOR TEACHERS 
 
 C. Set the head of the mortise gauge back, the amount of sinkagi 
 required between the face of the legs and the face of th< 
 rails, and mark the tenons on the legs. In doing this, bi 
 careful that the best sides of the legs are kept on the outside 
 
 2. A. Cut the tenons with a ripsaw, and the shoulders with a backsaw 
 B. Miter the ends of the tenons so they will clear each other ii 
 
 the mortise. 
 
 3. A. With a ripsaw, make a cut to the lines of the mortises of eacl 
 
 side of each leg, making the cut upon the inside of the lines 
 to maintain the size of the mortise. 
 B. Trim out the corners, bottom, and sides of the mortise, workinj 
 
 carefully to the lines. 
 
 C. Fit the rails in their places. Mark all joints for future identi 
 fication. 
 
 4. A. Draw bore the joint. See W, Topic 65 C. 
 
 B. Make the pins of required length, and round the top ove 
 carefully. If it is desired to save a little work, the dra^ 
 boring may be done from the inside, in which case the end 
 of the pins will not show on the outside. 
 
 5. Plane, scrape, and sandpaper all pieces ; leave no sharp o 
 
 ragged corners. The corners of the legs should be rounde 
 quite perceptibly. 
 
 6. A. Glue end rails and legs together. Pin them. 
 
 B. Glue side rails and legs together, and drive the pins in thei 
 places. Drive the pins so that their rounded tops wi 
 just project beyond the surface of the leg, if the pegs ar 
 driven from the outside. 
 
IN WOODWORK AND CARPENTRY 119 
 
 7. A. Place the boards of the top together and match the figure of 
 
 grain. If possible, the grain of the boards should run in the 
 direction easiest planed from that side. This is not so im- 
 portant as it is that the figure should match well. 
 
 B. Joint edges. See C, Topic 54 and Topic 69 A, for instruc- 
 
 tions in jointing and doweling. The dowels should be 
 placed not more than 15" to centers. 
 
 C. Glue the top, using clamps. Put the glue in the dowel holes 
 
 and along the whole length of the joint. See W, Topic 66. 
 
 D. Cut top to approximate size. (If piece is to be glued on to 
 
 make the top appear thicker, refer to preparatory instruc- 
 tions of this model.) 
 
 E. Make top of required dimensions. 
 
 F. Joint the tops of the legs and rails straight and true. 
 
 G. Straighten under side of the top, and fit it and the legs and 
 
 rails to each other. 
 
 8. Fasten the top on by method indicated in C, Fig. 46, A or B. 
 
 The latter method is to be preferred, as it allows the top to 
 shrink and swell without danger of opening the joints. 
 
 9. A. Traverse plane the top. Take a very light shaving. 
 
 B. Plane lengthways with jack plane. 
 
 C. Traverse lightly with jointer if necessary, and make the top 
 
 straight in all directions. 
 
 D. Smooth with finely adjusted smoothing plane. 
 
 E. Scrape with a sharp scraper ; remove all grain marks, and be 
 
 careful not to dig a hole which can be felt in passing the hand 
 over the top. 
 
 F. Sandpaper lengthways. Do this very thoroughly, being sure 
 
 that the sandpaper does not slip off of the corners. 
 
 G. Give the corners a perceptible round ; do this accurately, or 
 
 it will look worse than if it were not done at all. 
 
 10. Inspect for defects, and remedy them. 
 
 11. Stain and finish as desired. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 ANSWERS TO ARITHMETIC QUESTIONS 
 I. Elements of Construction, Chapter V 
 
 4. iV- 
 
 6. N. side, 20'. S. side, 79' 6". E. and W. sides, 17' 7|' 
 
 5. 221". 
 
 22. 349' nearly. 37. 20 sq. yd. 
 
 7. 7349.38 sq. 
 
 ft. 23. 970'. 38. 375'. 
 
 13. f. 
 
 24. 14" x 28" glass. 39. 55^ cu. yd. 
 
 14. 17 pieces. 
 
 25. 5" to each piece. 40. 0.91. 
 
 17. 231 cu. in. 
 
 26. 1505.56". 41. $17.44. 
 
 18. 1 gal. 
 
 31. 2976" B. M. 44. 1485". 
 
 19. 14' B. M. 
 
 34. 2160 cu. in. 45. 308'. 
 
 20. 250'. 
 
 35. 1 bu. 46. 8 Ib. weights. 
 
 21. 50,244". 
 
 36. 280' B. M. 47. $ 10. 
 
 48. A 
 
 received $6.89. B received $5.51. 
 
 50. The latter two are the cheaper. Saved $ .62. 
 
 51. 45'. 
 
 53. 67i'. 59. 10. 
 
 52. $66.82. 
 
 58. 10?. 60. 14.546'. 
 
 61. 
 
 2 ends 18" long x 12" wide x f" thick, 
 
 
 2 sides 25|" long x 12|" wide x ]" thick, 
 
 
 1 top 19|" long x 25i" w j ( i e x |" thick, 
 
 
 1 bottom 19|" long x 25$" wide x f " thick. 
 
 62. 150'. 
 
 64. A's pay should be raised to 11? per hour. 
 
 63. . 
 
 65. B's pay should be cut down to 7.3? per hour. 
 
 66. 18'. 
 
 70. 14? per hour. 74. 8.87'. 
 
 67. 20,124.2 Ib. 
 
 71. 7'. 75. $97.60. 
 
 68. 74f. 
 
 72. Neither ; a catch question. 76. 402'. $18.76. 
 
 69. Lost, $1.31f. 73. 1512 cu. ft. 77. Made $16.66. 
 
 78. Thejournei 
 
 fman mechanic would be 15? per hour the cheaper. 
 
 79. 2 sides 6' 2" long x 12" wide x 1" thick, 
 
 2 ends 2' 0" long x 12" wide x 1 " thick, 
 
 1 top 2' 2" long x 6' 2" wide x 1" thick, 
 
 1 bottom 2' 2" long x 6' 2" wide x 1 " thick. 
 
 120 
 
ANSWERS 121 
 
 80. 491'. 82. 251'. 84. 4". 86. 2470'. 88. 10''. 
 
 81. lO.i'. 83.49''. 85. Four 7-lb. weights. 87. 13|'. 89. 37},'. 
 90. 87.15. 91. B receives 2.00. C receives $1.60. 
 
 92. 2<i rafters. 93. 410'. 94. 20.11'. 95. 38'. 
 
 96. His duty as foreman requires that he should report the case, also the pro- 
 
 tection of his own reputation. A's financial loss is $ of the money 
 paid for the labor. 
 
 97. 24i'. 98> ni/. 99. 17*'. 100. 15'. 101. 14,000 shingles. 
 102. 125'. 103. 61.35. 104. Nothing; a catch question. 
 
 105. 1946 people. 108. 21J'. 112. 31.36 Ib. 
 
 106. 14'. 110. 30 days. 113. $24.62. 
 
 107. 10$'. HI- 7840 shingles. 114. 17.21'. 
 118. A receives $4.80. B receives $4.20. 119. 900'. 
 
 120. 24 double periods. 121. 640 ft. of rails. 2560 ft. of boards. 
 
 122. 675 people. 126. B paid 7 ^ per hour. 
 
 123. 209,350 Ib. 127. $7.20. 128. 2516. 
 
 129. 2 stiles 6' 8" x 4" x 1|", 
 
 1 top rail 2'0"x4"xl|", 
 
 1 middle rail 2' 0" x 6" x H", 
 
 1 bottom rail 2'0" x 7" x 1|". 
 
 130. 8.89'. 135. A. 139. 142.6 cu. yd. 
 
 131 / 88 1 cu. yd. 136. 10?-. 140. 50 rafters 2 x 6 x 14' long. 
 
 132. $11.11. 137. 36'. 141. $38.22. 
 
 133. 6336 laths. 138. 17^'. 142. 38 Ib. 
 
 143. $13.047. 144. 25 students @ 8^ per hour. 
 
 145. 10 pieces 1". 1 piece f " left. 
 
 146. 9.197'. 149. 12" x 24" glass. 
 
 147. A f , B | of the work. 150. Four 6-lb. weights. 
 
 148. 425'. 151. 1512 tiles. 
 
 154. 87.24. 155. A received 80 ^. B received 64 0. 156. 4'. 
 
 157. 1320' long. 160. 16' 3" nearly. 163. 840'. 166. 1|". 
 
 158. 108,900'. 161. 154'. 164. 7500'. 167. f". 
 
 159. 99.03 Ib. 162. 7'. 165. 1". 168. |". 
 
 169. B's work causes a loss of 20^. 
 
 170. -8200. 175. 2". 180. Yes. 
 
 171. 820.16. 176. 9762 laths. 181. 204f. 
 
 172. 790'. 177. 41". 182. 12 hr. 
 
 173. $35.55. 178. 10'. 183. 5'6|". 
 
 174. 42.66 Ib. 179. 120 per hour. 184. 640'. 
 
 185. 16,128'. Nine 14 x 30 4 It. windows. 
 186. 355 cu. yd. 187. $44.375. 188. 42' B. M. 
 
122 
 
 ANSWERS 
 
 189. 
 
 10' 6". 196. $28.50. 
 
 203. 130 per hour. 
 
 190. 
 
 $38.52. '197. A, 100 per hour. 
 
 204. 8?,0 per hour. 
 
 191. 
 
 80 per hour. 198. 47 layers. 
 
 205. 100 per hour. 
 
 192. 
 
 180 per hour. 199. DO 0-lb. weights. 
 
 206. $340. 
 
 193. 
 
 144'. 200. $27.30. 
 
 207. $12,000. 
 
 194. 
 
 $1.40. 201. The last. 40. 
 
 208. 3'7f nearly. 
 
 195. 
 
 $14.74. 202. 80 per hour. 
 
 209. 71.09 cu. ft. 
 
 210. 
 
 6' x 6'. 211. A receives $ 1.46. B receives $1.34. C receives $ 1. 10. 
 
 212. 
 
 $7.50. 214. 142 hours. 
 
 216. $25.60. 
 
 213. 
 
 $9.16f. 215. 80 per hour. 
 
 217. 810 per hour. 
 
 218. A receives 80 per hour. B receives 120 per hour. 
 
 219. 
 
 2000'. 220. $ 128. 221. of the work. 
 
 222. 91'. 223. $5.33. 
 
 224. A should receive $ 13.33. B should receive $6.67. 
 
 225. 
 
 A should receive $5. B should receive 
 
 $4.17. C should receive 
 
 
 $2.50. D should receive $8.33. 
 
 
 226. 
 
 A's time is 200 cheaper. 227. 
 
 $32.12. 
 
 229. 
 
 10' 4". 234. 2 V. 
 
 239. 11 hr. 
 
 230. 
 
 12 per hour. 235. -fa. 
 
 240. 3 per hour. 
 
 231. 
 
 80. 236. T V 
 
 241. 88.00. 
 
 232. 
 
 | of a foot. 237. 101 '8|". 
 
 242. ^ profit. 
 
 233. 
 
 |f of afoot. 238. -80.20. 
 
 243. 854.02. 
 
 244. 
 
 $10,000. $20,000. $13,333. $21,666.67. 
 
 8 15,000. 
 
 
 245. 2 tops 4' x 3' x I", 
 
 
 12 legs 2()i" x 2' x 3", 
 6 rails 3' 8" x 5" x 1", 
 ' 6 rails 2' 8" x 5" x 1". 
 246. 83'. 247. B 8^0 per hour. C. 6^0 per hour. 
 
 248. B's table cost 100 more. C's table cost 360 more. 
 
 249. A's table brings 160 profit. B's table, cost = price. C's table, causes 
 
 200 loss. 
 
 250. 6' 6" in sight. 252. $2610. 254. 81.15. 256. 40. 
 
 251. $25.19. 253. $105.55. 255. 100. 257. $2.49. 
 
 258. 21 hr. 259. 6f hr. 
 
 260. 2 sides 2' Of " x 7" x |", 
 
 2 ends l'3i"x 7" x 1", 
 
 1 top I'5i"x2'6|"x I", 
 
 1 top l'5"x 2'6f'x|". 
 
 261. 12J'. 265. $10.29. 272. $45. 
 
 262. $3.60. 266. 41 hr. 273. 50. 
 
 263. $32.40. 269. $1.05. 
 
 264. 8". 271. $945. 
 
ANSWERS 
 
 123 
 
 274. 
 
 275. 
 278. 
 
 279. 
 
 286. 
 287. 
 
 295. 
 296. 
 297. 
 
 A receives 10 <f> per hour. 
 
 hour. 
 
 $3220.67. 276. 14' 2 T y '. 
 
 B receives 7 ? per hour. 
 
 hour. 
 75?. 280. 10 hr. 281. 
 
 284. A does ^ 
 
 285. A's share, $12. 
 ($8.25 hr. 288. 12'. 
 
 708.6 Ib. 290. I960'. 2* 
 
 294. 3 stiles 18" x 3" 
 
 2 rails 42" x 3" 
 
 3 inuntins 12" x 3" 
 
 4 panels 13" x 9 
 
 298. $8.125. 
 
 B receives 5^ per hour. C receives 10 fi per 
 
 277. 11.85hr. 
 C receives 7$? per hour. D receives 6? per 
 
 37.825 da. work. 
 20 men. 
 
 $8.40. 
 
 per hour. 282. 5 T 5 T da. 283. 24 da. 
 per day. B does ^ per day. 
 B's share, $8. 
 
 291. 825'. 293. $5.25. 
 
 292. 17$ Ib. 
 x|", 
 xf", 
 x|", 
 x|". 
 
 302. 800'. 305. $4.80. 
 
 299. 56'. 303. $4.80. 
 
 300. 424'. 304. $1.70. 
 
 II. Inside Finishing, Chapter VIII 
 
 1. 
 2. 
 3. 
 4. 
 
 18. 
 19. 
 
 29. 
 30. 
 31. 
 32. 
 33. 
 42 
 43. 
 44. 
 46. 
 47. 
 48 
 
 22%. 
 1-8%. 
 $15.66. 
 Ratio, $. 
 
 $3. 
 
 10%. 
 
 92$?. 
 
 10%. 
 
 10. 
 
 11. 
 
 13. 
 14. 
 
 70%. 
 | loss. 
 $286.87$. 
 9A hr. 
 
 16. 10% loss. 
 
 16. 7,2? per hour. 
 
 17. A's pay reduced 20%. B's pay raised 33$ %. 
 
 22. $129.41. 25. 41.52+%. 
 
 24. 835.00. 
 
 27. 12? per hour. 28. A lays 977'+. B lays 1220'+. 
 
 A receives $16.50. B receives $7.35. C receives $3.15. 
 
 25.2 da. 
 $1.20. 
 
 A's pay reduced 20%. 
 
 20. $122.50. 
 
 21. $1.26|. 
 
 $42. 
 
 6 students. 
 
 32,233 sq. ft. 
 
 13$ da. 
 
 A receives $2.88. 
 
 $ 146.65. 
 
 20%. 
 
 864 sci. ft. 
 
 53f hr. 
 
 720 sq. ft. 
 
 34. 
 35. 
 37. 
 38. 
 
 40 and 50. 
 30f. 46$. 
 
 6J%- 
 
 *2$%- 
 
 99}f. 
 
 39. .02f%. 
 41. 39 squares. 
 
 B receives $2.40. 
 49. $16. <H><;. 
 178.88; 
 $133. 
 
 14?%. 
 
 22 men. 
 
 50. 
 51. 
 52. 
 53. 
 
 C receives $ 1.92. D receives $ 1.44. 
 
 54. 29%. 
 
 55. 18,937 sq. ft. 
 
 58. $31.54. 
 
 59. llihr. 
 
 60. 20%. 
 
124 
 
 ANSWERS 
 
 61. 3.70 da. 63. -$58.80. 
 
 62. 80%. 64. 751.08 sq. ft. 
 
 65. A receives -$10.40. Others receive $'29.00. 
 
 67. 
 
 70. 
 71. 
 72. 
 73. 
 74. 
 75. 
 76. 
 78. 
 79. 
 80. 
 81. 
 82. 
 83. 
 84. 
 85. 
 87. 
 88. 
 89. 
 90. 
 91. 
 
 147. 
 148. 
 149. 
 
 156. 10'. 
 
 162. 
 163. 
 164. 
 
 Made 11.7%. 92! .$20.50. 
 
 37$%. 93. -$390. 
 
 35.34 sq.ft. 94. 98.46%. 
 
 30% waste. 95. 92.3%. 
 
 A is 4.6% cheaper. 96. 7 %. 
 
 lOf %. 97. 140 sq. ft. 
 
 1800 Ib. 
 
 19.23 cu. ft. 
 
 170%. 
 
 787$ sq. ft. 
 
 2325 bricks. 
 
 12 ft. high. 
 15,129 bricks. 
 .$50.00. 
 
 291 sq . ft. 
 47' 0". 
 
 821.275 sq. ft. 
 24 hr. 
 
 3f%. 
 
 ll T 8 3%gaiii. 
 
 98. 10' x 14'. 
 
 99. 20 sq.ft. 
 100. $300. 
 
 102. $22.50. 
 
 103. $345.00. 
 
 104. 7.9%. 
 
 105. 144 sq. ft. 
 
 106. 14' x 10' 3"+. 
 
 107. 1293 cu. ft. 
 
 108. 5240 bricks. 
 
 109. 1.50+ sq. ft. 
 
 110. 1580 sq. in. 
 
 111. 25.75+ sq. ft. 
 
 112. 98 T. 
 
 113. 0531 sq. ft. 
 
 114. -$17.77. 
 
 115. 1.29% loss. 
 
 145: 210; 512; 1728; 5832; 27,000. 
 
 146. 27; 144; 512; 1728; 5832; 27,000. 
 30 ; 9 ; 25 ; 0400. 150. 2 ; 3 ; 7 ; 9. 
 
 27 ; 125 ; 729 ; 5205. 151. 2 ; 2 ; 3 orders. 
 5; 12$; 18; 24$;. 40. 152. 1; 1; 1; 1 order. 
 
 153. 2 ; 3 ; 4 ; 5 ; 7 ; 9 ; 10. 
 
 154. 25; 27.71+; 72.00+ ; 113.872+ ; 438.88+. 
 
 155. 3.1+ ; 4.79+; 18 nearly. 70.14. 
 
 157. 40'. 158. 20'. 159. 20.00' nearly. 
 
 161. Either 7 iV or 7 f" rise. 
 Of". 165. 12' 0" long. 
 
 12' 0" long. 166. 40.31'. 
 
 Hi" w jde. 167. 26.49 square. 
 
 171. 7-|" or 7f" rise; 10/y or !) r y run. 
 
 172. llty or 10 T y wide. 
 
 116. 78i%. 
 
 117. 10% loss. 
 120. 58|%. 
 
 122. 7 t per hour. 
 
 123. 2484'. 
 
 124. A is 91^ cheaper, 
 
 126. 48%. 
 
 127. 3.7%. 
 
 128. 30 %+ left. 
 
 129. 1452.77'. 
 
 130. |%. 
 
 132. 19 T y/ . 
 
 133. 60f%. 
 
 134. 28.8%. 
 
 135. 13.3%. 
 
 136. 11.25%. 
 
 138. -$ 137.73 profit. 
 
 139. 18. 5% nearly. 
 
 140. 120f. 
 
 141. 38 r \% profit. 
 
 142. $30.60. 
 
 143. 4; 8; 12. 
 
 144. 9; 81; 400; 025. 
 
 160. 7 T y rise 
 
 168. 00'. 
 
 169. 33.3'. 
 
 170. 03.5'. 
 
ANSWERS 
 
 125 
 
 173. 27" fall. 
 174. T y pitch. 
 175. 6 2 y'fall. 
 
 177. 415.475". 
 178. 14.6'. 
 179. 165.13 sq. ft. 
 
 181. 3450 sq. ft. 
 182. 5875.2 gal. 
 183. 3331.374 gal. 
 
 176. 72.256". 
 
 180. 25 circles. 
 
 184. 1396.115 sq. ft. 
 
 185. a. 2; b. 2 ; c. 25 
 
 ; d. 20; e. 20 ; /. 3; g. 4; 
 
 h. 4 ; i. 10 ; j. 4 ; k. 2 ; I. 5 ; 
 
 TO. 7 ; n. 1 ; o. 
 
 4; p. 13; q. 5 ; r. 6; s. 4; 
 
 t. 46 ; u. 2 ; v. 3 ; w. 33. 
 
 186. a. 77 ; 6. 18 ; c. 
 
 144 ; d. 30 ; e. 60 ; /. 288 ; 
 
 g. 126; ft. 48 ; i. 40; j. 48 ; 
 
 A;. 55; Z. 16; in. 90; w. 21. 
 
 187. a. 
 
 3; b. 8; c. 4; d. 7; e. 5; /. 3; g. 4. 
 
 188. a. 
 
 36 ; 6. 54 ; c. 120 ; d. 3 ; e, 
 
 ,3;/. 5; g.B. 
 
 189. 118,400'. 
 
 198. 38.485 sq. ft. 
 
 207. 38' x 50'. 
 
 190. 810 cu. ft. 
 
 199. 20' diameter. 
 
 208. 62' 8". 
 
 191. 200 sq. ft. 
 
 200. 49.48 sq. ft. 
 
 209. 40'. 
 
 192. 192 sq. ft. 
 
 201. 2.513'. 
 
 210. 80.061. 
 
 193. 812| sq. ft. 
 
 202. 20,106.24 sq. ft. 
 
 211. 10'. 
 
 194. 120.83 sq. ft. 
 
 203. 472 pupils. 
 
 212. 90 T. 
 
 195. 2122 sq. ft. 
 
 204. 482,348.76 cu. ft. 
 
 213. 19 sq. ft. nearly. 
 
 196. 28.27 ft. 
 
 205. 12,058.02 sq. ft. 
 
 214. 27' x 34'. 
 
 197. 12' 6". 
 
 206. 1253.64. 
 
 215. 16| ft. 
 
 216. 
 
 6" x 8" will have 4 sq. in. 
 
 more area. 
 
 217. 48 sq. in. 
 
 237. There will be no ridge. 257. 12' 7f". 
 
 218. 6'4f". 
 
 238. 3' long. 
 
 258. 4H". 
 
 219. 12' 7"+. 
 
 239. 3'4f"long. 
 
 259. 12' 4". 
 
 220. ft". 
 
 240. T V' shorter. 
 
 260. 16'. 
 
 221. 16.97". 
 
 241. 14' 1" long. 
 
 261. 13' 11". 
 
 222. 7. 14 'nearly. 
 
 242. 14" rise/ 
 
 262. 14'5J. 
 
 223. 9 'A}" nearly. 
 
 243. 31 r yiong. 
 
 263. 15' 7". 
 
 224. 12.07 ft. nearly. 
 
 244. 20' 10" long. 
 
 264. 15' 5^". 
 
 225. 10'3"+. 
 
 245. 21' 9-1" long. 
 
 265. 15' 4}". 
 
 226. 13'7J"+. 
 
 246. 19' 6" long.' 
 
 266. 15' 7$". 
 
 227. 14' rise. 
 
 247. 28 1 f "long. 
 
 267. li" shorter. 
 
 228. 16,720 shingles. 
 
 248. l T y shorter. 
 
 268. 2' 10" shorter. 
 
 229. * 44.10. 
 
 249. 12' long. 
 
 269. 2' 5i" shorter. 
 
 230. 113.60. 
 
 250. 18' long. 
 
 270. 14 r y shorter. 
 
 231. 20' 6". 
 
 251 24 'long. 
 
 271. 10' 5". 
 
 232. 42 rafters. 
 
 252. 3' long. 
 
 272. 10' 10". 
 
 233. 17 ft. 
 
 253. 4' long. 
 
 273. 4jj" shorter. 
 
 234. 1(1' run, 10' 8" rise. 254. 6' long. 
 
 274. 12289. 
 
 235. 20'. 
 
 255. 14' 5" long. 
 
 275. $55. 
 
 236. 16' 3". 
 
 256. 15' 7|". 
 
 276. $81. 
 
 
 277. 45 bu. liine ; 157| bu 
 
 . sand. 
 
126 
 
 ANSWERS 
 
 278. $107.79. 
 
 279. 73 bu. lime ; 202 bu. sand. 
 
 280. 146 studs. 
 
 287. 13,685'. 
 
 294. $45.33. 
 
 301. $2533. 
 
 281. $1.92. 
 
 288. .$20.08. 
 
 295. $7. 
 
 302. 814.76. 
 
 282. 2104'. 
 
 289. $45.00. 
 
 296. $0.62. 
 
 303. 45 gal. 
 
 283. 2314'. 
 
 290. $27.00. 
 
 297. $34.10. 
 
 304. 8126. 
 
 284. 400 sq.ft. 
 
 291. $14.06. 
 
 298. $66.88. 
 
 305. 16$ gal. 
 
 285. 427 sq. ft. 
 
 292. $50.75. 
 
 299. $03.04. 
 
 306. $16.75. 
 
 286. 12,820'. 
 
 293. $56.70. 
 
 300. $9.33. 
 
 307. $30.70. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Accuracy, importance of , 4, 18. 
 
 Adjusting mechanism, overhauling of, 
 27. 
 
 Adjusting parts, ordering of, 26. 
 
 Administration, of finances, 31. 
 
 Advanced class, work of, 17 ; preparing 
 of stock by, 57. 
 
 Alcohol and shellac, 33. 
 
 Algebraic symbols, in formulas, 16. 
 
 Allowance for working and cutting, 56. 
 
 Arithmetic, questions in, how to as- 
 sign, 15 ; use of, in manual-training 
 classes, 42. 
 
 Auger bit, described, 23; for equip- 
 ment, 35-38. 
 
 Awls, for hafts, see Equipment lists, 
 37, 38. 
 
 Backsaw, for equipment, 35, 36, 38 ; 
 new subject (fig. 1), 61. 
 
 Basswood, for models, 30, 61. 
 
 Bastard mill files, flat, for equipment, 
 37, 38. 
 
 Bead plane, for equipment, 37, 38 ; 
 new subject (fig. 38), 103. 
 
 Beginning classes, cutting of stock for, 
 57. 
 
 Bench, position at, 14 ; selection of, 25 ; 
 equipment for, 21, 35, 36, 37 ; work, 
 see Suggestive Courses, 44-54. 
 
 Bench hook, use of, 3, 58 ; for equip- 
 ment, 35, 36,38; how to make, 74. 
 
 Bevel, for equipment, 35, 36, 39. 
 
 Bevel square, new subject (fig. 3), 63. 
 
 Bird house, how to make, 84. 
 
 Bit, auger, described, 23 ; for equip- 
 ment, 35-38 ; new subject (fig. 2), 62. 
 
 Bit files, for equipment, 37. 
 
 Bitbrace, use of, 2, 3 ; description of, 
 23 ; for equipment, 35, 36, 38 ; 
 different forms of, new subject (fig. 
 10), 69. 
 
 Bits, center, for equipment, 37, 39; 
 
 new subject (fig. 2), 62. 
 Bits, expansion, for equipment, 37. 
 Bits for general use, 21. 
 Bits, German, for equipment, 37, 38 ; 
 
 new subject (fig. 14), 74. 
 Blackboard, use of, 12. 
 Black gum, for models, 30. 
 Blades, for turn-saw frames, 37; 
 
 hack-saw, 37. 
 
 Blemishes, in lumber, 32, 56. 
 Block plane, use of, 3 ; new subject 
 
 (fig. 1), 61; iron knucklejoint, for 
 
 equipment, 22, 35, 36, 38. 
 Blotting pad, how to make, 81. 
 Blueprints, 7. 
 
 Boards, kinds and thicknesses of, 30. 
 Bookcase, how to make, 116. 
 Bookrack, dovetailed, how to make, 
 
 109. 
 
 Borrowing, of tools, 27. 
 Bracket shelf, how to make, 82. 
 Bradawl, new subject (fig. 9), 68. 
 Breast drill, for equipment, 37. 
 Brush, for stains and filling, described, 
 
 34; for equipment, 35, 36, 38. 
 Button pliers, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Cabinet files, for equipment, 37, 39. 
 
 Cabinet scrapers, description of, 25 ; 
 for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Cap iron, 28. 
 
 Carpentry, teaching hints on, 10-20 ; 
 course, equipment for, 35; sugges- 
 tive trade courses in, 52-54. 
 
 Carpet tacks, 34. 
 
 Cart, how to make, 92. 
 
 Carving, wood, new subject (fig. 19), 80. 
 
 Caul, gluing with, new subject (fig. 6), 
 66. 
 
 Center bits, for equipment, 37,39. 
 
 Chamfering, new subject (fig. 9), 68. 
 
 127 
 
128 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Cherry, for models, 30. 
 
 Chisel, for paring, new subject (fig. 2), 
 62. 
 
 Chisels, for equipment, 21, 35, 36, 37, 
 38, 39. 
 
 Circles, areas of, 16. 
 
 Clamps, for equipment, 37, 39 ; new 
 subject (fig. 38), 103. 
 
 Class, size of, 7 ; in construction, ad- 
 vanced, 17. 
 
 Clinch nails, new subject (fig. 16), 76. 
 
 Coat hanger, how to make, 79. 
 
 Commercial work, material for, 58. 
 
 Comparison of tools, 22-26. 
 
 Compass saws, for equipment, 37, 39 ; 
 new subject (fig. 10), 69. 
 
 Compasses, new subject (fig. 2), 62. 
 
 Construction, in carpentry, 12, 13 ; 
 advanced class in, 17 ; wedged, new 
 subject (fig. 42), 110. 
 
 Corner shelf, how to make, 88. 
 
 Countersinks, described, 24 ; for 
 equipment, 37, 39 ; new subject 
 (fig. 10), 74. 
 
 Course, one, for all students, 6, 41. 
 
 Courses, planning of, 29 ; time nec- 
 essary for completion of, 40 ; use of, 
 outlined, 40 ; in manual training, 
 44-51 ; in carpentry, 52-54. 
 
 Criticism, in class, 17. 
 
 Crossgrained wood, planing of, 13. 
 
 Cube root, 16. 
 
 Curves, laying out of, new subject 
 (fig. 18), 79. 
 
 Cutting board, how to make, 75. 
 
 Cutting-off saw, use of, 13; for 
 equipment, 35, 36, 37, 38 ; new sub- 
 ject (fig. 1), 61. 
 
 Dado plane, for equipment, 38. 
 
 Defacement of tools, 29. 
 
 Demonstration of tools, 11, 17. 
 
 Design, simplicity of, 8 ; original, 
 6, 8, 9, 42. 
 
 Designs, suggestive, 61-119. 
 
 Diagonals, squaring by, new subject 
 (fig. 32), 95. 
 
 Diagrams, blackboard, 13. 
 
 Dimensions, how they should be re- 
 garded, 57. 
 
 Direct method, advantage of, 4. 
 
 Discussion, class, 17. 
 Dish drainer, how to make, 78. 
 "Dog," used on workbench, 25. 
 Dovetailed bookrack, how to make, 
 
 109. 
 Draw boring, new subject (fig. 45) , 
 
 116. 
 
 Drawing board, how to make, 106 
 Drawing kits, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 Drawings, working, 8, 42; perspective, 
 
 41. 
 
 Drawshaves, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 Drill, class, 2, 9, 13. 
 
 Economy, in cutting material, 9, 57; 
 
 in using figures, 15 ; in purchasing 
 
 material, 32. 
 Edge tools, for individual student, 
 
 21 ; effect of sandpaper upon, new 
 
 subject (fig. 5), 65. 
 Ellipse, new subject (fig. 15), 75. 
 Emery wheel, use of, 28. 
 End wood, making joint upon, 59. 
 Equipment, complete, for carpenter's 
 
 shop, 21 ; economical, 21 ; care of, 26; 
 
 lists of, 35-39. 
 
 Estimating, how to teach, 20. 
 Examinations, 42. 
 Exercises, in the joints, 1, 10; written, 
 
 11, 13, 17, 42; grading of, 40. 
 Expansion bits, for equipment, 37. 
 
 Facts, treatment of, 13. 
 
 Figures, steel, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Files, for equipment, 37, 38, 39; 
 
 use of, 60; new subject .(fig. 7), 
 
 67. 
 
 Filling, brushes for, 34. 
 Finishing materials, liquid, 33. 
 Fishline winder, how to make, 68. 
 Flower stick, how to make, 64. 
 Foot rest, how to make, 102. 
 Form, true, how to know, 8. 
 Formulas, use of algebraic symbols in, 
 
 16. 
 
 Fractions, 16. 
 
 Frame building, construction of, 12. 
 Frame saw, new subject (fig. 10), 69; 
 
 see also, 25. 
 Framing squares, for equipment, 36, 
 
 38. 
 
INDEX 
 
 129 
 
 Gable, laying out of, new subject (fig. 
 24), 84. 
 
 Gauge, use of, 13 ; description of, 22 ; 
 for equipment, 35, 36, 38 ; new sub- 
 ject (fig. 1), 61. 
 
 German bits, for equipment, 37, 38 ; 
 new subject (fig. 14), 74. 
 
 Glass cutter, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Glove box, how to make, 85. 
 
 Glue, hot and cold, 32 ; new subject 
 (fig. 6) ,66. 
 
 (lining, special place for, 19; new sub- 
 ject (fig. 6), 66; (fig. 39), 106. 
 
 Gouges, for equipment, 37, 39; inside 
 and outside, new subject (fig. 22), 
 82. 
 
 Grading of exercises, 40. 
 
 Graduations, on gauge, 22 ; on try- 
 squares, 23. 
 
 Grain, sandpapering across, 60 ; of 
 hard wood, new subject (fig. 7), 67; 
 direction of, new subject (fig. 10), 
 69 ; relation of dimensions to, new 
 subject (fig. 14), 74. 
 
 Grinding of tools, 28. 
 
 Grindstone, for equipment, 37, 39. 
 
 Grip of nails, new subject (fig. 17), 
 78. 
 
 Gripnut, in bitbrace, 23. 
 
 Grooving, new subject (fig. 32), 95. 
 
 Hack-saw frame, for equipment, 37. 
 Hafts, peg-awl, for equipment, 37, 
 
 38. 
 Hammer, for equipment, 21, 35, 36, 
 
 38 ; bell-faced claw, description of, 
 
 24. 
 Handscrews, use of, in gluing, 19 ; 
 
 description of, 25 ; for equipment, 
 
 37, 39 ; new subject (fig. 6), 66. 
 Hard wood, grain of, new subject 
 
 (fig. 7), 67, 
 
 Hatchets, for equipment, 37, 39. 
 Hatrack, how to make, 68. 
 Hinges, new subject (fig. 36), 101. 
 Housing, new subject (fig. 32), 95. 
 
 Incentive, model as, 5. 
 Individual equipment of tools, 35, 36. 
 Individual work, how to provide for, 
 5,8, 11,29,30,31,41. 
 
 Iron jointers, for equipment, 36, 38. 
 Iron planes, 22 ; see also Equipment, 
 
 lists of, 35-39. 
 Iron tongue and groove plane, for 
 
 equipment, 37. 
 
 Jack board, use of bench hook as, 3, 
 
 58 ; use of, in block planing, 59. 
 Jack plane, use of, 2, 57 ; for equip- 
 ment, 35, 36, 38; new subject (fig. 
 
 1), 61. 
 
 " Jennings" auger bit, 23. 
 Joint, how to make, 59. 
 
 Dovetail (fig. 41), 109. 
 
 Doweled (fig. 37), 103. 
 
 Draw bored (fig. 45), 116. 
 
 Draw wedged (fig. 42), 110. 
 
 Glued (fig. 39), 106. 
 
 Halved (fig. 23), 83, (fig. 37), 102. 
 
 Housed (fig. 32), 95. 
 
 Mitered (fig. 38), 105. 
 
 Mortise and tenon (fig. 43), 113. 
 
 Notched (fig. 16), 77. 
 Joints, exercises in, 1, 11. 
 
 Key rack, how to make, 80. 
 Key tag, how to make, 62. 
 Knife box, how to make, 95. 
 Knife, paper, how to make, 97. 
 Knife, use of, in marking, 17; new sub- 
 ject (fig. 1), 61. 
 Knives, sloyd, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Laziness, how to prevent, 14. 
 
 Letter box, how to make, 101. 
 
 Letters, steel, for equipment, 37. 
 
 Level, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Lines, straight and curVed, alterna- 
 tions of, 8. 
 
 List, stock, for. each model, 9; new 
 subject (fig. 16), 76. 
 
 Lists of equipment, 35-39. 
 
 Lumber, grades of, 32. 
 
 Mallet, for equipment, 35^ 36, 39. 
 Manual training, suggestive courses in, 
 
 44-51. 
 
 Maple, for models, 30. 
 Marking, use of knife in, 17. 
 Match planes, for equipment, 37. 
 Material, purchase of, 30, 31. 
 
130 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Miter box, use of, new subject (fig. 
 25), 85. 
 
 Model, preliminary work upon, 1, 4, 8 ; 
 importance of the, 5 ; stock cutting 
 for, 9 ; smoothing of, 19; making the, 
 58. 
 
 Models, value of large, 2 ; sequence of, 
 6; selection of, 7, 41, 56; sup- 
 plementary, 1 1 ; material for, 29 ; 
 value of small, 30 ; use of, in sug- 
 gestive courses, 41 ; cutting stock 
 for, 57 ; undersize, 58. 
 
 Moldings, new subject (fig. 38), 103. 
 
 Monkey wrench, for equipment, 37, 
 38. 
 
 Mortise joint, new subject (fig. 43), 
 113. 
 
 Mortises (fig. 42), 113. 
 
 Nail sets, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Nails, purchase of, 34 ; clinch, new 
 subject (fig. 16), 76; maximum 
 grip of, new subje'ct (fig. 17), 78. 
 
 New subjects, 56 ; see also figs. 146. 
 
 New tools, 5. 
 
 Nippers, end-cutting, for equipment, 
 37, 38. 
 
 Notebook, carpentry, 14. 
 
 Oak, for models, 30; plain, 32; 
 
 quartered, 32. 
 Octagon plant stand, 73. 
 Oil can, for equipment, 35, 36, 38. 
 Oilstone, for equipment, 35, 36, 38. 
 Oilstoning, 28. 
 
 Originality of design, 6, 8, 9, 42. 
 "Out of wind," 57. 
 
 Paint, new subject (fig. 24), 84. 
 
 Paper knife, how to make, 97. 
 
 Pen tray, how to make, 82. 
 
 Pencil, indiscriminate use of, 17, IS. 
 
 Pencil compasses, for equipment, 37, 
 
 38. 
 
 Pencil sharpener, how to make, GO. 
 Perspective drawings, 41. 
 Phraseology, in arithmetic, 15. 
 Picture frame, how to make, 98. 
 Picture frames, mitered, 59. 
 Pine, for models, 30; new subject 
 
 (fig. 1), 61. 
 
 Pitches, of roofs, 16. 
 
 Plane, block, 3, 61 (new subject, fig. 1). 
 
 Dado, for equipment, 3<s. 
 
 Iron, description of, 22 ; for equip- 
 ment, 32, 35, 36, 38. 
 
 Jack, 2, 57, 61 (new subject, fig. 1); 
 for equipment, 35, 36, 38. 
 
 Router, new subject (fig. 42), 110. 
 
 Smoothing, 13, 18. 
 
 Wood bead, for equipment, 37, 3S. 
 
 Wooden, 22. 
 Planes of projection, new subject 
 
 (fig. 16), 76. 
 Planing, traverse, new subject (fig. 
 
 38), 106. 
 
 Plant label, how to make, 61. 
 Plant stand, how to make: octagonal, 
 
 73; halved, 83. 
 Plate rack, how to make, 110. 
 Poplar, for models, 30. 
 Position, at bench, 14. 
 Preliminary work, on models, 1 ; see 
 
 also figs. 1-45. 
 Principles, of tools, 4, 11. 
 Projection, three planes of new sub- 
 ject (fig. 16), 76. 
 
 Rabbet, cutting a, new subject (fig. 34), 
 98. 
 
 Rabbet plane, iron, for equipment, 
 37, 38. 
 
 Racks, equipment for, 21, 36, 3S. 
 
 Rasps, use of, 18, 60 ; new subject (fig. 
 7), 67. 
 
 Ratchet brace, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Reference books, use of, 10. 
 
 References to other volumes, explained, 
 43. 
 
 Research, upon tools, 17 ; in carpen- 
 try course, 42. 
 
 Review, 11. 
 
 Ripsaw, use of, 13; for equipment 
 35, 36, 38; new subject (fig. 1), 01. 
 
 Roofs, shingling of, 15 ; construction 
 of, 10. 
 
 Router plane, new subject (fig. 42), 
 110. 
 
 Routing plane 1 , for equipment, 37. 
 
 Rule, for equipment, 21, 35, 30, 3s ; 
 straight, 23; folding, 23; new sub- 
 ject (fig. 1), 61 ; how to make, 71. 
 
INDEX 
 
 131 
 
 Sand shovel, how to make, 76. 
 
 Sandpaper, use of, 18, 59; new sub- 
 ject (fig. 5), 69. 
 
 Sandpaper block, use of, 60; how to 
 make, <>">. 
 
 Saw, back, for equipment, 35, 36, 38 ; 
 new subject (fig. 1), 61. 
 Compass, for cutting curves, 25 ; for 
 equipment, 37, 39 ; new subject 
 (fig. 10), 69. 
 
 Cutting-off, use of, 13; for equip- 
 ment, 35, 36, 37, 38 ; new subject 
 (fig. 1), 61. 
 
 Frame, new subject (fig. 10), 69. 
 Rip, use of, 13 ; for equipment, 35, 
 36, 38; new subject (fig. 1), 61. 
 Turning (or frame), description of, 
 25 ; for equipment, 37, 39 ; new 
 subject (fig. 10), 69. 
 
 Saw filing, 19. 
 
 Scale, use of, in construction, 12. 
 
 Scraper, use of, 18; new subject (fig. 
 29), 90. 
 
 Scrapers, cabinet, 25. 
 
 Scratcher, on gauge, 22. 
 
 Screen frame, how to make, 113. 
 
 Screwdriver, for equipment, 35, 36, 38; 
 new subject (fig. 14), 74. 
 
 Screws, miscellaneous, for equipment, 
 26 ; purchase of, 34. 
 
 Scribing, new subject (fig. 29), 90. 
 Selection of models, 7, 41, 56. 
 
 Sequence, of tools, 2 ; of work, 56. 
 
 Sharpening of tools, 26. 
 
 Shelf, bracket, how to make, 82; cor- 
 ner, 88. 
 
 Shellac, how to purchase, 33, 34; 
 new subject (fig. 6), 66. 
 
 Shingling, 15. 
 
 Shooting board, 3, 58. 
 
 Silk winder, how to make, 67. 
 
 Sketches, blackboard, 13 ; see also 
 " Drawings." 
 
 Sleeve board, how to make, 90. 
 
 Slip stones, for equipment, 37, 39. 
 
 Smoothing and sandpapering, 18. 
 
 Smoothing plane, use of, 18 ; for equip- 
 ment, 36, 38. 
 
 Spokeshave, use of, 18, 60 ; for equip- 
 ment, 37, 38 ; new subject (fig. 2), 62. 
 
 Square root, 16. 
 
 Squaring by diagonals, new subject (fig. 
 32), 95. 
 
 Stains, how to purchase, 33, 34 ; new 
 subject (fig. 9), 68. 
 
 Stairs, flight of, 12. 
 
 Stamp, steel department, for equip- 
 ment, 37, 38. 
 
 Steel square, use of, 16 ; divisions of, 
 24 ; in laying out of gable, new sub- 
 ject (fig. 24), 84. 
 
 Stock bill, making of, 20. 
 
 Stock cutting, 9, 56. 
 
 Stock lists, new subject (fig. 16), 76. 
 
 Straight edge, new subject (fig. 40), 
 108. 
 
 Studding, in plaster partitions, new 
 subject (fig. 9), 68. 
 
 Subjects, new, for description and 
 demonstration, 56. 
 
 Suggestions, for models, 7, 8, 41, 42. 
 
 Supplies, estimating for, 29. 
 
 T square, how to make, 108. 
 
 Table, how to make! 116. 
 
 Table mat, how to make, 69. 
 
 Tables of circumferences and areas, 
 16. 
 
 Tacks, carpet, 34. 
 
 Taper files, for equipment, 37, 39. 
 
 Teacher, in relation to class, 6 ; his 
 qare of tools, 27. 
 
 Teaching hints, special, 56-61. 
 
 Tendencies to be guarded against, 17, 
 59. 
 
 Tenons (fig. 42), 113. 
 
 Tests and examinations, 42. 
 
 Theory, in study of carpentry, 10 ; 
 and practice, 42 ; talks upon, 44, 
 note. 
 
 Thumb-screw, in bitbrace, 23. 
 
 Time for completion of courses, 40; 
 see also " Suggestive Courses," 44-54. 
 
 Toilet case, how to make, 103. 
 
 Tool rack, how to make, 72. 
 
 Tool work, see "Courses in Carpentry," 
 52-54. 
 
 Tools, sequence of, 2 ; new, 4 ; con- 
 struction and use of, 11, 17: com- 
 parison of, 22 ; sharpening of, 26 ; 
 losses and breakages of, 28 ; lists of, 
 for equipment, 35-39. 
 
132 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Towel rack, how to make: rod, S7 ; 
 folding, 99. 
 
 Towel roller, how to make, 54. 
 
 Traverse planing, new subject (fig. 
 39), 106. 
 
 Try-square, description of, 23 ; for 
 equipment, 21, 35, 36, 38 ; new sub- 
 ject (fig. 1), 61. 
 
 Turn-saw frames, for equipment, 37, 
 39. 
 
 Twist drills, for equipment, 37, 38. 
 
 Undersize models, 58. 
 Vises, on workbench, 26. 
 
 Wall pocket, how to make, 89. 
 Warping, new subject (fig. 39), 106. 
 Waste, allowance for, in supplies, 29 ; 
 
 in stock cutting, 31, 56. 
 Wax finishes, 33. 
 
 Wedge, how to make, 63. 
 
 Wedged construction, new subject (fig. 
 
 42), 110. 
 
 Wedged pin, new subject (fig. 29), 90. 
 Whetting, 2S. 
 
 Whittling, new subject (fig. 1), 61. 
 Wind, out of, 57. 
 Wing dividers, for equipment, 35, 36, 
 
 37, 3S. 
 Wood carving, new subject (fig. 19), 
 
 80. 
 Wood, hard, new subject (fig. 7), 67; 
 
 kinds of, see Cherry, Oak, etc. 
 Wood stains, new subject (fig. 9), 
 
 68. 
 Work, individual, 5, 8, 11, 29, 30, 31, 
 
 41. 
 
 Workbench, for equipment, 25. 
 Working drawings, 8, 42. 
 Written exercises, 11, 13, 17, 42. 
 Written work, topics for, see " Sugges- 
 tive Courses," 44-54. 
 
VOCATIONAL EDUCATION 
 
 By JOHN M. GILLETTE, Professor of Sociology in the 
 State University of North Dakota 
 
 $1.00 
 
 IN this volume is presented for teachers, superintendents, 
 and teachers' reading circles an illuminating discussion of 
 the present general movement for vocational education. 
 By this phrase is meant not only industrial education; but all 
 the training courses needed to meet the practical demands of 
 life. 
 
 ^[ The author explains at some length the principles, de- 
 mands, and methods of vocational education; he states the 
 grounds upon which hopes of success may reasonably rest; 
 he indicates some actual results gained by schools conducted 
 on more practical lines ; and he points out others which 
 would follow upon the reorganization of our educational sys- 
 tem in general. 
 
 ^j The vocationalizing of the schools has regard to the con- 
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 tended to give him suitable training for his niche in life, to 
 show him how he can make the most of himself and in what 
 line he can prove himself most productive to society At 
 the same time, this scheme of education does not ignore the 
 informational, the cultural, and the disciplinary aspects it 
 insists that the individual be fitted for good citizenship. 
 ^f The introduction of vocational education into the public 
 school system of the United States, with the curriculum ad- 
 apted to the chief kinds of occupation belonging to each com- 
 munity, will mean greater development and power for the 
 country. From vocational education, introduced to meet the 
 differing community needs, will result greater efficiency and 
 better appreciation of the schools, increased attendance of 
 pupils, greater compensation for teachers, greater productive- 
 ness, higher wages, and improved society. 
 
 AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY 
 
 (208) 
 
DESCRIPTIVE 
 CATALOGUE OF HIGH 
 SCHOOL AND COLLEGE 
 
 TEXT-BOOKS 
 
 Published Complete and in Sections 
 
 WE issue a Catalogue of High School and College Text- 
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 ^[ For the convenience of teachers this Catalogue is also 
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