35 1197 B35 UC-NRLF SB 2fl3 THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID TYKE; THE HISTORY OF PHOENICIA, PALESTINE SYRIA, to .VXD THE FINAL & CAPTIVITY OF ISRAEL AND JITDAH, R. B. BEMENT, AUTHOR OP SEVERAL WOSK3 UPON ANCIENT HISTORY, PROPHESY, &C, ALTO^S T , ILLINOIS : ED BY PARKS & ENNIS, AT THE TELEGRAPH JOB OFFICE. i s G s . : ^^ TYSE; PHCENICIA, PALESTINE 1 SYRIA, AND TZS SIHAL CAPTIVITY OF ISRAEL AND JUDAH, BY R.- B. BEMENT, 4.TJTBOB OF SEVERAL WORKS UPON ANCIENT HISTORY, PBOPHBST, *0, ALTOJST, ILLINOIS: FBINTED BY PASKS & ENJNIS, TELEGRAPH BOOK AND JOB OFFICE. 1358. PREFACE. THIS work is one of a series of small works, upon the history of all the . nations referred to in the Sacred Scripture. Having visited the places described, for the purpose of qualify- ing myself for Public Lecturing, I have devoted most of my timo to that employment, and could only devote the leisure moments to writing. Knowing that the country, and not the author, was the subject of interest to the reader, I have said but little of myself my feelings, or the incidents by the way except when the same would illustrate the subject of the history or the Bible. I have aimed at accuracy, but, in some instances, writing from memory, may have erred a trifle in figures and measurement. With what- ever of good or ill it may possess, I trust it will be useful to the reader; while it affords me time to prepare a larger and more thorough work upon the history of those lands, so intimately blended with the teachings of the Sacred Scriptures. K. B. BEMENT. INVOCATION ^O CHEONOS. Aged Father,, author of ril*fc$$&trial things, Lay by thy Scythe and fcl'd'thjjr weary wings ; To me relate the scenes that tfaou hast viewed in youth Of man'a past history, relive the simple truth. When from the Ark the nations spread abroad, And some retained, and .some forsook, the worship of their God, Who peopled this, and who that part of the laud? Who, hating toil, continued iong^a roving band? : Why reared they oft such stupendous piles, -, On Indus', or Euphrates' ba ; nksor Moero's Isles? Why Pyramids erected and Celestial observations took,. And in their chambers reduced the heavens to book? What wars, rapines, and bloody scenes of strife, Where rival interest clashed, or-angry fueds were rift, What Law, what error, around them did entwine; Why did their customs crush-fche human race divine? Thou answerest well, the truthidoth on me shine? With one consent for their own, they left the law divitsj 'Tis truth from God, conducts as to the light, He who regards it not must roam in eidtess nighfc. With cheerful hope, then to'iny task I go; Not for reward, nor honors here belowj But trust, that as toothers I the truth impart, God's truth will bless, and cheer iny weary heart EARLY HISTORY OF THE DIFFERENT RACES OF HEN, WHO HAVE DWELT IN PALESTINE. While Sidon, a grand son of Ham, was building the kingdom of Sidonia, subsequently called Phoenicia, the other descendants of Canaan, migrated lurther southward and spread over the country called Palestine. ; When Abraham entered that land the Canaanites were few in number, and the country but thinly settled. He dwelt at Hebron; formed an alliance with some of the natives; rose to be a king, and abounded in wealth, in servants, cattle and munitions of war; but after his death, we do not find that Isaac retained the kingdom, or was pre-eminently rich. The Philistines, who dwelt upon the south-west border of Israel, were a distinct race of people from that of the Canaanites. They originated from the shepherd stock, on the plains of the far east, near India. Their religion was that of the east of Assyria. They were ultimately exterminated by the descendants of Jacob. About eighteen hundred years before Christ, the descendants of Abraham were scattered abroad. Ishmael migrated to Arabia Petra. Esau following him, married his daughter, and became merged in the same stock, called Edomites. Abraham's six sons by his second marriage, removed to the far East. Some writers suppose they went to India, and were the ancestors of the Bramans; but it is much more probable that the east to which they went, was on the borders of the Gulf of Ormus, and the Persian Gulf in the eastern part of modern Arabia, and that the inhabitants of the kingdom of Muscat are their descendants. Jacob and his children retired into Egypt for nearly four hun- dred years. During that period the Canaanites largely increased in numbers had made great progress in the knowledge of agricul- ture and the arts, and had built many cities. They had formed a number of loosely confederated States, called the tribes of Canaan- ites, among which were the Amorites, descendants of the special friends of Abraham, the Jebuzites, who dwelt at the hill, subsequent- ly called Jerusalem, the Hivite and Hitites, the Gibebnites and Girgashites, It is at this day impossible to define, with accuracy the locality of all these tribes, The Girgashites dwelt on the east of the Jordon and the Galilee. The splendid ruins of Girash, in Syria, are supposed to occupy the site of one of their ancient cities. EARLY HISTORY OP CANAAN. About 1450 years B. C. Joshua and the Israelites crossed the Jor- dan, and began the couquest of the land of Canaan. While engaged in the work of extermination and division of the land, which occupied about four hundred years, they were ruled by Judges. Their form of government vibrated between anarchy, mobocracy, democracy and military despotism. They were manifestly an ignorant people, conducting agricultural pursuits in a very rude manner, and almost entirely unacquainted with arts, manufactures and commerce, until the time of Solomon. The most important cities of Israel and Judah, with their history and present condition, are described in a separate article. The Phoenicians had fallen into Idolatry. Their principal deity was called by themselves Malcarth; by the Greeks, Hurculese; but by the Israelites and Syrians, Baal. Who and what was the Tyrian God? Idolatry seldom, if ever, springs up at once in all its deform- ity. It begins with the adoration of some departed hero, some hu- man passion, or some lofty thought. The idea embodied in an image, is the symbol of thought. Ultimately the idea degenerates with the multitude into blind, stupid, unmeaning worshipof the idol. The Phoenicians were engaged in manufactures and commerce. The spirit of these enterprises had made them weal'thy, intelligent and brave. This was their Deity. Baal was the spirit of com- mercial enterprise. Hurculese had wrought many wonders and labors. This was the mythology of successful Phoenician adventure. To this God they erected altars, and offered incense in groves, on hills and in sacred places; but until the time of Solomon and Hiram they had no temples. Israel also worshiped in tabernacles, and in a building erected over the same at Nob, called the house of the Lord. It was this house, not the temple at Jerusalem, for whose destruction Isaiah mourned. Isaiah, LXV: 11. The arrangement between Solomon and Hiram to build the tem- ple at Jerusalem was indeed a pious one. It was in accordance with the Divine command, to build a house unto the Lord. But [7] kXV>XX/-N^X/ 1 in addition to this, there Was another motive. Solomon was a good man, and inspired, but not pre-eminently good. His peculiarity was that ha was a wise man. The only true method of studying the character of Solomon, is in the light o: statesman and political economist. When the Lord asked him to choose what he would have, he did not select pre-eminent goodness, but he stated in substance that as he was king over the people, he desired to know how as a statesman he could best advance their interest. Here was his true character and the proper place to study political economy is at the Solomon, whose political principles were from heaven, that in a narrow mountain district, his people, though they ffiigh possibly maintain existence, could not by agriculture alone become wealthy and powerful. His neighbors, the Phoenicians, on a na rower strip of land, had become rich and prosperous, by manufac- tures and commerce. Israel must be initiated into all these departments of enterprise. But as yet his people possessed not the requisite knowledge and Skill Solomon's men and Hiram's men are now seen working together on Mount Lebanon, hewing timber and removing it t Tyre Israel was thus learning the art of working in wood, i farming and building; they also quarried stone together. Israel became entered apprentice masons to the Sidonians. Next they unitedly build floats at the port of Tyre, and convey the material to Joppa. Israel is being taught navigation, and the art of ship building. Thus was the spirit of commerce infused into Israel. We soon after see them engaged in foreign enterprise. "And kin g Solomon made a navy of ships in Eziongeber, which is beside Eloth on the shore of the Eed Sea, in the land of Edom. And Hiram sent in the navy his servants ship-men, that had knowledge Of the sea, with the servants of Solomon." 1 Kings ix: 26, 27. Of the structure of Solomon's temple, nothing definite is now known, except what is recorded in the Sacred Scriptures. Solomon was a courteous gentleman, and disposed to return favor for favor. Having finished the holy temple and his own house, he assisted Hiram of Tyre, to build a temple on the Island, in front of that city, for the worship of the Tyrian God of commerce. He also married the daughter of Hiram. [8] In company with Phoenicians he desired to extend and protect the caravan trade to the Euphrates and the Indus, if not to China. This inland commerce embraced then just what we now call the British East India trade, a trade that has made every nation rich that controlled it. But from Phoenicia and Israel, the caravans must pass through the Territory of the Syrians, whose capital was Damascus. It became therefore necessary to interest that people in these enterprises. One of their States lay between Lebanon and Ante-Lebanon, then called Hamoth, but subsequently Coebosyria. To facilitate and protect that, through that district the temple and city of Baalbec were erected, of which a description is given on another page. Under the protection of this Baal of commerce, the caravans passed through the mountain district, and found their way to the plains of Damascus. Here they were met by the great Tyrian Desert, which they must cross. In the center of that Desert was a fountain of water, around which stood some stately palms. Here Solomon and his confederates built the city of Tadmore or Palmyra, here the cara- vans could find shelter, refreshment and repose, "For Solomon built Baalath and Tadmore in the wilderness." 1 Kings, ix: 18. Commerce next to the direct preaching of the gospel, is, and ever has been, the great power to sheath the sword and prevent war, and promote the peace, happiness and prosperty, of all parties in- terested therein. The exchange of nations, is the wealth and prosperity of nations. It may need regulating, but its moral power can not well be dispensed with. When a nation manufac- tures and produces all it needs, and has no exchange with others, it must of necessity deteriorate, become foolish, conceited, stagnant and ripe, to be destroyed. Their isolation is the provocative cause of war, while exchange promotes mutual interest and mutual good will. Solomon, by Divine wisdom saw all this, and profited by it. What were the results? First peace with all nations. The name of Solomon signifies peace, and in his reign there was no war. Not only the three confederates, Israel, Phoenicia and Syria, but all the wide world, were lulled into profound tranquility. The second result was prosperity. Wealth as a consequence of exchange, poured into the lap of all these nations, for Solomon made gold and silver abound in Jerusalem, like the stones of the streets. Phoenicia was not less prosperous, and Damascus grew in treasure. Had not Solomon given an apparent sanction to idolatry, his temple build- ing for the benefit of commerce might not have been censurable. In the temple erected by Solomon, in Jerusalem, we are told he caused to be wrought upon the pillars, Lilys, Pomegranates and Net-work. From Egypt, Palestine may be visited by three different routes. The first, and by far the most fatiguing and most dangerous, with Borne interesting advantage, is the one traversed by the Israelites under Moses, by the Eed Sea, Mount Sinai, and Petra. By this route we can enter Canaan, by way of Hebron, or, going further east, come in by the Dead Sea and the Jordan. The second route is by the short Desert of Suez, called in Scrip- ture Shur. This is the route traveled unnumbered times by hostile armies, invading or retreating from Egypt. This leads us past the ruins of Eaphia, famous for the great bat- tle between Ptolemy and Antiochus the great, which occurred about 217 B. C. From the ruins of Eaphia we enter Palestine, at Gaza, in the south-west. The third is the quickest, and by far the least fatiguing route. We can take a steamer at Alexandria, cross the great sea diagon- ally, and land at Beyroot, in Syria, and thus enter Palestine from the north. This being the route of our travel, the scenery and history will be described somewhat in the order of succession from this point. Beyroot is now the most important sea-port on the eastern side of the Mediterranean, as Smyrna is on the north-east. It is a town of perhaps twenty-five thousand inhabitants; Syrians, Druzes, Arabs, Christians, and Jews. It is the head-quarters of the Syrian Mission. It is doing a thriving business in Syrian commerce, and has absorbed almost entirely the trade that once flourished at Tyre, Sidon, Cesarea, and other ports. The harbor at Beyroot is toler- ably good, and the city presents a fine appearance from the sea. Her police regulations are, in some respects, needlessly vexatious. Although every human being on board the steamer La Bey was in good health, there was a legal presumption, that as she had come from a port in Egypt, her passengers might have the plague. On this account a strict, and in most cases a useless, quarantine 2 [10] is maintained. All must go in a place of close confinement, not so comfortable as the cells in the prison-houses of this country. Forty- eight hours we were required to remain here upon a p'allet of straw; our food being passed to us through a grated door. At the close of this penance we were required to pay the rent of our involuntary place of abode, with enormous charges for every item of comfort we were permitted to enjoy, and a fee to the physician for not being sick. There may be seasons when these sanitary measures are needful, but ordinarily they are enforced for no other purpose than to favor a few officials who subsist upon what they can extort from travelers, and the government winks at this extortion. The following description of Beyroot and its environs, is taken from a missionary paper : As you approach Beyroot in the steamer from the west, the mountain range stretching far to the north and south, presents the appearance only of immense, rugged masses of naked, whitish rock, severed by deep, wild ravines, and running precipitously into the very sea. It is this whitish appearance which gives to it its name of Lebanon, which signifies, in the Hebrew, the White Motfn- tain. Nor, when you have landed, do you perceive, except in the confined plain of Beyroot, any more signs of cultivation or of in- habitants; the steep, bare, rocky rampart, rises up before you as far as the eye can reach, gaining a frequent elevation of ten thou- sand feet, and sometimes piercing into the region of eternal snows. When you start for the summit, however, you find, to your delight, that it is not an uninterrupted ascent that you are obliged to make, but you are meeting with a constant succession of valleys, higher and still higher up, and mostly running parallel with the coast. These valleys teem with villages; for in the east people do not live in scattered houses, but ten, twenty, or more families cluster to- gether and form a village or town. By means of terraces, con- structed with great labor and covered with soil, almost every avail- able foot of land is brought under a high state of cultivation. The numerous population, as may well be supposed, is hardy, industri- ous and brave. As this cultivation is carried on almost to the very summit of the mountain, a great variety of productions, as well as of climate, is found within the narrow range of thirty miles from the coast. Figs, grapes, olives, the mulberry, flocks and herds abound. During the greater part of the year, the mulberry tree clothe the prospects in every direction with a most delightful ver- dure. The culture of silk, of which immense quantities are thus raised, is one of the chief employments of the inhabitants. Bey- root is pleasantly situated, on the western side of a large bay, in 33 49 north latitude. Its houses are built of mud, and of a soft sandy crumbling stone; and are dark, damp and inconvenient. The streets are narrow, gloomy, and laid with stones, which rather serves as stepping-stones in wet weather, than answer for a pave- ment. One-third of the population, which numbers not far from twenty thousand, and is increasing, reside in the gardens and or- chards which surround the city, and give to its environs an aspect of great verdure and beauty. It is in these environs, on the hills to the south of the city, that the houses of the missionaries are situated. The prospects which they command is very grand. To the north the eye takes the whole bay, to the point near Nahhar Ibraheem. To the right the mighty wall of Lebanon rises in indes- cribable majesty, with one of its loftiest summits, Jebel Sunnin, in full view, lo is to the north of this summit, a distance of six or eight hours, that is to say of fifteen or twenty miles, that the cele- brated cedar grove of Lebanon is to be found. Abeih is about fif- teen miles south from Beyroot. It is delightfully situated, in a valley, about half way up one of the highest parts of Mount Leb- anon. From a hill back of it, in the direction of Bhamboom, higher up the same valley, twenty-one villages may be counted. Sidon, at a short distance, has a noble appearance, standing out boldly into the sea, on rather high ground, and embosomed in trees. It contains not far from six thousand inhabitants. The houses on the eastern side, which are distinguished for their size and height, are built directly on the wall, so as to constitute a part of it. At this point the mountains, which are of a much lower elevation than further north, begin to recede from the coast, and leave a narrow plain, which just before reaching Tyre, a distance of about thirty miles, has become a mile in width. A road not a broad carriage road like those in this country, but a narrow, rocky path, along which often only a single line of don- keys or horses can pick their way inclining slightly towards the south, leads from Sidon to Hashbeiya. In passing along this road, you leave Mount Lebanon; cross the Leontes, which flows through a valley of great fertility and indescribable beauty, about ten miles in width, and more than a hundred in length, lying between the peaks of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon; pass over a narrow [12] range of hills, which separates the valley of the Leontes from that of the Jordan, and begin to ascend the southern extremity of Mount Hermon. Here is Hashbeiya, overhanging a narrow glen, which, coming down from the mountain, enters the valley just be- low the point where a copious fountain pours forth one of the streams of the Jordan. The city contains about six thousand in- habitants, mostly mechanics and petty merchants. The inhabi- tants of Mount Lebanon are more than 200.000, all of the Arab race, and speaking a language which is used by 60,000,000 people. From Beyroot our company moved southward on mules and camels about five miles, and the sky being clear, we encamped in the open air under a grove of mulberry, although at a short distance was a khan where we might have found shelter. The next day we pushed on toward Sidon. On our right rolled the waves of the wide, wide sea, dashing furiously upon the sandy beach. On our left were the spurs of Mount Lebanon, now ap- proaching quite to the sea, compelling us to ride along the beach, and at times in the water. Now again the hills and mountains recede further from the shore, the intervening space furnishing plains for the cultivation of grain. Up the mountain slopes were to be seen, pastures, and flocks of Syrian sheep ; vineyards, and orchards with various kinds of fruit. Here and there, villages adorned the hillsides, which at a distance appeared attractive, but a nearer approach diminished their beauty. In the afternoon we entered the famous city of Sidon, and took np our lodgings in the khan, which is said once to have been a French factory. Like some large buildings in the East, it is in the form of a hollow square, with a fountain in the center. It is about a hundred. and fifty feet in extent on each side. This khan was erected about a hundred and fifty years ago, by the famous Emir or prince of the Druzes, Fakhr Ed Din who was a great patron of European commerce. The modern town of Saida is not on the pre- cise spot of the ancient city. It is upon elevated ground, and com- mands a fine view of the sea. It contains about five thousand in- habitants, who are industrious, and enjoying a moderate degree of prosperity, but their agriculture and silk manufacturing is not [13] conducted with either skill or economy. The harbor where once the proud ships rode in safety, is so shallow from the sand washed up by the sea, that only a few small crafts can come into port. Her products are chiefly sent to the greater market at Beyroot. In the rear of the site of the ancient city, are a number of ancient tombs, but on the locality itself there are few objects of interest, except an occasional broken piece of architecture, indicating its former exis- tance. Dr. Eobinson thus accurately describes this place and its vicinity. "The beauty of Saida consists in its gardens and its orch- ards, of fruit trees which fill the plain and extend to the foot of the mountains. The city, and tract around it, are abundantly supplied with wa- ter by aqueducts and channels, which conduct it from the Awly and other small streams, as they issue from the mountains. The environs exhibit everywhere a luxuriant verdure. The fruits of Saida are esteemed the finest of the country, among them are pomegranates, apricots, figs, almonds, oranges, lemons, and plums, which grow in such abundance, as to furnish annually several ship-loads for export." Several important prophesies relate to Sidon, which its history has verified. Isaiah says, of her future destiny, "Be thou ashamed O Zidon, for the sea hath spoken, the strength of the sea saying, I travail not, nor bring forth children." The absence of commerce from her harbor, is a fair comment on this passage. Ezekiel, in the xxvm chapter 22d and 23d verses, thus prophesies against Sidon: "Thus, saith the Lord God, I am against thee, O Zidon, and I will be glorified in the midst of thee for I will send into her pestilence, and blood into her streets, and the wounded shall be judged in the midst of her, by the sword upon every side." Sidon, in common with all Phoenicia, and many other countries, became tributary to Babylon, about 575 B. C., and in the fall of that empire, passed under the dominion of the Persians in 538. The Persian government, unstable at home, was often severe and oppressive upon its dependencies. About 352, one Ochus, also called Artaxerxes the third, sat on the throne. He was ambitious to subdue a revolt that had been started in Egypt. Tired of the arbitrary and uncertain administration of the Persian monarch, the Phoenicians revolted, just as Ochus was about engaging in the Egyptian expedition. The route of his army was directly through Phoenicia. An alliance was formed between the Egyptians and the Phoenicians to resist the Persians. [14] Nectantebus wns at that time the king of Egypt. He had in his service one Mentor, a distinguished general, a native of the Isle of Ehodes, whom he sent with four thousand troops to Sidon. The Phoenician and Egyptian army met those of Ochus, composed of Syrian and Lician forces on the confines of Syria, and defeated the royal troops, driving them entirely out of Phcenecia. Persia was,*at the same time, engaged in a war with a revolted province in Asia Minor. Just about the same time, the inhabitants of the Isle of Cyprus, which had been tributary to Persia, rebelled, thus throwing upon Ochus three wars at once. Ochus now set out in person to conquer Egypt, expecting, of course, that the first struggle would be in Phoenicia, where his gene- rals had lately been defeated. He entered the land with an army of 300,000 foot, and 30,000 horsemen. Meritor was at Sidon with the Egyptian and Grecian allies, in all only a few thousand men. Alarmed at the approach of so great an army, he immediately planned to surrender treacherously the city and people into the hands of the enemy. Tennes, the then king of Sidon, engaged in the same treason, having received a promise of great reward. The Sidonians, not suspecting treachery, prepared for defense as Ochus approached. They burned their own ships, the better to stimulate their men to fight by cutting off all hope of retreat a device often practiced, but never with good results. When in the midst of the struggle the Sidonians found themselves betrayed, many of them shut them- selves up in their houses, which were set on fire, and they were burned with all their treasures. Forty thousand men, besides wo- men and children perished in this way. When Ochus had gained possession of Sidon, having no further use for king Tennes, he put him to death, as he deserved. Thus we see how little of honesty, or truth, remains in the breast of the conqueror when his ends are accomplished. The king of Sidon merited his fate, but not at the hand of the Persian. At that time Sidon was very rich. The gold and silver being melted, mingled^with the ashes of the desolate city. These cinders, Ochus sold to purchasers, who sifted out the precious metals. All Phoenicia terrified at the fate of Sidon, and the treachery of its king, submitted to the Persians. About twenty years after these events, Alexander the great passed triumphantly along this coast. Sidon had partially regained her [15] former glory. She opened her gates and received the Macedonian hero, who treated her kindly at the time that his terrible wrath fell so heav^y upon Tyre. About sixty -five years before the birth of Christ, all Phoenicia and Syria became subject to the Eomans, under whose favor, Sidon became again an opulent city, whose flourishing trade continued until some centuries after the Christian era. It is noted in the New Testament, for the visits of Jesus Christ and the apostle Paul. Centuries rolled on, when the Crusade wars raged between Christians of the west and Saracens of the East. Sidon was alter- nately in the possession of the opposite parties, each of whom strove to desolate the city. From about fourteen hundred to seventeen hundred it remained in ruins, and of litle note, until FakhrEd Din revived its ancient commerce, committing its trade chiefly into the hands of the French, and built for their benefit the khan already described. In 1791, Pasha Jezzar expelled the French, since which time the commerce of Sidon has been but the limited Caravan trade of the Syrian Arabs. TYRE. Another days travel of twenty-five miles brought us across the Leontes, on whose bank we encamped near the ruins of Tyre. The modern town of Sur answers to Tyre, although not on the same spot. It is a place of about one thousand inhabitants, who subsist by agriculture, the cultivation and preservation of fruits, and by fishing. Their trade and commerce is gone. The ancient city'is desolate, according to the word of the Lord, by Ezekiel. A portion of the ruins of Tyre are submerged in the sea. Out of the deep rise masses resembling castles, towers, and chimneys, whose base have been inundated by the action' of the water. Other portions of the once harbor are now filled with sand, lying high and dry above the sea. A part of the ruins are upon dry land, surrounded by the surf-beaten sands. In one place there re- mains part of an arched-building, which, if restored, would make a grand hall. This may have been the famous temple of Hercules, reared by Solomon and Hiram for the worship of that deity, and partially destroyed some seven hundred years afterward, by Alex- ander the Great. Many fragments of the rich architecture lie strown around; among others, caps, pillars, and cornices, with an [16] f occasional mutilated specimen of that peculiar and enigmatical work, the Lily, the Pomegranate, and the Net- work. THE FOUNTAINS. Eas El Ain is a place worthy of notice. Far in the rear of Tyre, in some unknown arcana, is a fountain of water which is conveyed by invisible channels into this vicinity, and discharges into three cisterns or reservoirs on the south of Tyre. One of these is about three hundred yards from the sea, and the others a little further distant. The one, first named, is of an octagonal form, and is sixty feet in diameter. It is about twenty-seven feet above the ground. The water within, is more than forty feet deep. The material of this cistern is gravel and cement, so compact as to make it appear like one entire vessel of rock. Into this cistern, as well as the other two, so large a quantity of water pours, that the aqueduct leading from them not only supplies the city, but also propels four mills for grinding corn. This aqueduct leads northward about three miles, then, near a small mount, on which stands a mosque, turning westward it passes into the town. When, by whom, or in what manner this mysterious aqueduct, with its secret supplies, was constructed, is now unknown. Tradition refers them to Solo- mon, king of Israel; but Maundrell thinks this can not be true. He says that "they could not be built till since Alexander's time, because the aqueduct which conveys the water hence to Tyre, is carried over the neck of land by which Alexander, in his famous siege of this place, joined the city to the continent. And as the cisterns can not well be imagined to be more ancient than the aqueduct, so we may be sure that the aqueduct can not be older than the ground it stands upon." This argument is not en- tirely conclusive; the cisterns and fountain, with their secret chan- nel, may be older than the aqueduct, the water being conveyed into the city by some other means. Again, it is not absolutely certain that the point of the peninsula, over which the aqueduct passes, is precisely the one constructed by Alexander. By whomsoever constructed, such a secret supply of water would have been of great utility in the long and terrible seiges of Tyre, by Shallmanesser and Nebuchadnezer. THE LADDER OF TYKE. South of Tyre, a spur of mountains approach near the sea, form- ing an abrupt elevation, called by the Romans, from its white chalky [17] appearance, Promontorium Album. No natural road could have passed this point, but, by the patient labor of man; broad steps have been cut in the solid rock, leading up to the top of the emi- nence. They are called the Ladder of Tyre, and are said to have been constructed by the soldiers of Alexander while besieging this city. This elevated point commands a fine view southward of the lands of,Israel, and northward of the plains of Phoenicia, with the mountains of Lebanon in the rear. JEAN DE ACEE AND MOUNT CAEMEL. Some thirty -five miles, or one and a half day's ride south of Tyre, stands the town of Acre, on the north of the Bay Acre, called by the natives Keifa. It is naturally well adapted to become a strong fortress, which has been improved by art: It has ever been deemed a place of great military importance, and a key to that part of Pal- estine. A city was built here about 280 B. C. by the Sc!eneids3, called Ptolemais, which name it retained until the Mohamedan domain in Palestine. For a time the court of Syria resided in this city. Here reigned the elder Syrian Cleopatra. Under Turkish rule it has enjoyed a share of Syrian commerce, but has experienced many of the misfortunes attendant upon war. In November, 1840, the English, then at war with Mahomet Ali, blew up the town, dashed to pieces mosques, houses, and walls, and almost instantane- ously slew two thousand of the Pasha's soldiers. The city is in process of repair, but still has a shattered appearance. Acre prob- ably contains above 10,000 inhabitants, employed in mercantile pursuits, manufacturing cotton, preparing oil, fishing and begging. Passing around to the head of the bay to the east of the town, we cross the river Belus, a small stream, perhaps fifty yards broad; then moving southward along the coast, after some two hours' ride, we crossed the river Kishon, near its outlet into the sea. This stream, so distinguished in the song of Deborah, drains all the west part of the valley of Esdrselon. At times it is a mighty flood, and sweeps away every thing in its course at other times it is but an insigni- ficant rill. It is called by the Arabs Nahor Morkato, or the stream of blood, in allusion to the slaughter of the priests of Baal by Elijah at this place. 3 [18] Immediately south of the Kishon, we meet a range of mountains, which bound the great valley on the south, and terminates abruptly at the sea coast by a premonitory called MOUNT CARMEL. Here Elijah bowed himself and prayed for rain, while his servant went and looked towards the sea, until a cloud no bigger than a man's hand appeared, and gave assurance of an abundance of rain. At its base was the test between the prophets of Baal and the one lone prophet of the God of Israel. This was not the Carmel of David's adventure with Nabal and Abigal. Carmel is crowned with a monastery said to have cost one hundred thousand dollars, where a number of monks spend their time in cultivating grapes, in en- tertaining travelers, and in devotion. It is claimed that the altar of worship stands upon the exact spot where the prophet Elijah knelt and prayed. The top of Carmel is barren, while the sides are adorned with vineyards and olive trees. Toward the sea the moun- tain terminates abruptly, giving a contour to the whole mountain resembling a human head facing the sea; and thus by its barren tops and bushy sides, verifying the name Carmel, or bald head. Passing from the mountains and journeying along the coast south- ward, about two days' journey, brought us to the ruins of C^SAREA. Along the rugged coast of Israel anciently stood a stronghold or fortress, above it was a tower, said to have been built by one Strata, hence sometimes called Strato's tower. This place fell in the terri- tory of the tribe of Mannessah, and was the chief port of the king- dom of Israel. Under Herod it received the name of Caesarea, in honor of Augustus Caesar. To this place Paul was sent to escape the Jews. Here he delivered his great speech before king Agrippa. From this port he sailed a prisoner to Rome. Csesarea was deso- lated in the time of the Crusade war, since which it has been a place of little importance; large masses of ruins still remain, as tombstones of the ancient city. Little of interest, except these ruins, now remains at Csesarea. It is called by the Arabs Kairsar- ich. [19] JOPPA. (JAFFA.) Another day's ride brought us to this renowned place, once the port of Judea. In the Greek mythology Joppa was connected with the fate of Andromedea. The Jews had a tradition that upon this coast were found the bones of the great fish that swallowed Jonah. The city is called Jaffa. It is situated upon an elevation command- ing a view of the harbor and the sea. The slope of the hill descends from the sea, and the whole city is surrounded by a wall. The in- habitants, who are about six thousand in number, are engaged in agriculture, the manufacture of olive oil, wine, and raisins. Great quantities of oranges and melons are raised in this vicinity. For several miles in the rear of Joppa the face of the country is level, and abounds with groves of fruit trees and well cultivated fields. Just at the foot of the hills is a narrow border of land, covered with large, black boulders of rock. A tradition exists among the natives to this effect; that in ancient times, the prophet Elijah caused a great famine, and when the drouth was at the extremest severity he came to Joppa. Here he begged of the inhabitants a watermelon to quench his thirst; but they being offended at him for causing the drouth, refused his request. For this inhospitality, he became en- raged, cursed the whole field, and turned all their melons into hardheads. By the action of the sea, the harbor and the coast are filled with sand, to such a degree that large vessels cannot approach it. For this reason the commerce of Joppa is very limited, and its ancient importance lost. A missionary establishment purely for agricultural improvement has been established at Jaffa, which is exerting a very beneficial in- fluence upon the country. Leaving Jaffa we rode along amid luxuriant groves and well cultivated fields for several miles; at length passing Elijah's Water Melons, we began to ascend the hills. Traveling nearly east, alternately ascending and descending and crossing several small rivulets, we encamped at Eamla, supposed by some writers to be the Emaus of the Bible. Next morning we passed the foot of the hill on whose side stands an old edifice which is reputed to have been the tomb of Samuel. [20] How exciting and peculiar are the emotions on beholding that city whose varied history is so intimately blended with things sacred and profane a place of piety, devotion and holy worship a place of murders, treason and rebellion of the bloody wars of Jews, Babylonians, Persians, Syrians, Egyptians, Eomans, Mahomedans and Crusaders. But our emotions cannot be written, they must be experienced to be known, and the greater our acquaintance with the history of these events, the more lively are our emotions on be- holding this sacred place. On approaching the city, we were in- formed that before entering we must submit to a rigid quarantine of five days; so for the time, we turned our attention to other objects of interest, among which were the cities of Bethlehem and Hebron, and the temple. We may safely infer that this secret passage from the Temple to the country was known to the kings and high-priests of Judah, although a secret to others, and that by this way Zedeki- ah made his escape when the city was so closely beseiged by the King of Babylon. BETHLEHEM. Journeying from Joppa toward Jerusalem, we passed quite to the north of this place. On an elevation, our attention was directed to a group of buildings seen in the distance, which we were told was the city of David. Subsequently we visited this place and Hebron. Passing along through a valley, shaded by two round- topped hills, we came suddenly in view of Bethlehem, situated upon the top of a hill in front of us. .The light of the declining day shone directly upon the hill-side, giving it an attractive ap- pearance. Toiling up the hill-side, we entered the city, and repos- ed for the night. I was, for a time, absorbed in the solemn reflec- tion, that from the hill-top went forth He that was the light of the world, whose light is yet to enlighten the Gentiles to the end of the earth. At an early hour in the morning, I was up to view the landscape. All around were hills and dales, forcibly reminding us of the Bible appellation, the hill country of Judea. As the early light of the morning, streaming from beyond the Dead Sea, and over the hills, fell upon the town, it seemed to be shrouded in a mantle of glory, [21] while the vales beneath our feet were still wrapped in the shadows of night. I felt more forcibly the impressions of the preceding evening, that this was the city of light the light separating from darkness, for the light shineth in darkness, and the darkness com- prehendeth it not. On every hand are mountains, with iuterven- ing fertile valleys, which" give to the surrounding country the name Ephrata, signifying bread, equivalent to goodness. How beautiful the variegated prospect; how expressive its name! Beth- lehem, light of the Lord; Ephrata, goodness, Bread of Eternal Life. Were not these names prophetic? From this hill, among these valleys, was to proceed He that was the Light of Eternal Wisdom, the Light of the World, and the goodness of the Lord in giving us the Bread of Eternal Life. He was full of grace and Truth. Bethlehem is situated upon a hill, seven or eight miles, a little west of south, from Jerusalem, and contains about four thousand inhabitants, mostly Christians, Latins, Greeks, and Armenians. It is, indeed, a city set on a hill that cannot be hid; but its elevated position prevents it from having a natural supply of water. That indispensable element of life is brought to Bethlehem, as well as Jerusalem, by aqueducts from pools in the mountains south-east of this place, on our route to Hebron. The principal objects of curi- osity are the tomb of Eachel, probably genuine, and the alleged convent of the nativity, probably a pious fraud. The incidents in the history of Bethlehem, though few, are ex- ceedingly interesting. Here the little lad Benjamin was born. Here Rachel died, and was buried in the tomb still bearing her name. In the partition of 'the country, this vicinity fell to the tribe of Judah, and the cityj||ras called Bethlehem. To this place returned ISTaomi with her faithful daughter Ruth, from Moab, where she and her family had been driven by famine. Here dwelt Boaz and Jesse. In the vale below David tended his little flock, while his elder brethren were defending the country against the Philis- tines. From these hill-sides came forth the lion and the bear to devour his sheep. Here the valiant boy defended his charge, and this nerved his arm and his mind for his future career, in govern- ing, defending and instructing his people. It was in Bethlehem that a certain Levite, of Mount Ephraim. went to recover his runaway wife, with whom, on his return, he met with such rough treatment [22] from the inhospitable Benjaminites, out of which grew a civil war, which well nigh exterminated the offending tribe. Here the Savior of the world made his first appearance. Here the light of angels' wings shone out on that night, and the songs of heaven broke through the arch above, and re-echoed among these hills and vales: Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace and good will to men. Over this hill stood the star, that guided the wise men of the east to the cradle of Him who was the Wisdom of God. Here, incited by jealousy, Herod caused the slaughter of the babes, whose terrible fate is poetically described as disturbing the slumbers of Eachel in her tomb; for in Eamah was there a voice heard Eachel mourning for her children, and would not be com- forted because they were not. THE POOLS. South-east of Bethlehem we come to a narrow, stony valley, hemmed in between ragged, rocky hills. On the side of the hill which overhangs the valley is a reservoir, or fountain of water, hid- den in the bowels of the mountains. The water first issues through an orifice, and, running a few yards, drops into a stone chamber beautifully arched above. The chamber is forty-five feet long, and twenty-four feet wide. Another singular room is in connection with this. From these fountains the water pursues a subterranean course about three hundred feet south-east to the first pool, from thence connecting with the second and third. These pools are in the hill-side, having natural rocky bottoms, and are built of ce- ment of great strength and durability. There are steps for des- cending into the pools. The first, or upper pool, is three hundred and eighty feet long; at the east end, two hundred and thirty-six feet; and at the west end, two hundred and twenty feet wide, and twenty-five feet deep. Descending the hill irregularly, some two hundred feet, we come to the second pool, which is four hundred and ninety -three feet, at the east end two hundred and fifty, and at the west one hundred and sixty feet wide, and thirty-nine feet deep.* Some two hundred and forty feet further to the south-east, *The tomb of Moses is unknown, but the traveler slakes his thirst at the well of Jacob. The gorgeous palace of the wisest of mon- [23] and a few feet lower, stands the third pool, which is five hundred and eighty-two feet long, and at the east end two hundred and seven feet, and at the west one hundred and forty-eight feet wide, and fifty feet deep. These great reservoirs supply with water the cities of Bethlehem and Jerusalem although many miles distant. Tradition refers their construction to King Solomon. I have been unable to find any thing in the Bible to confirm that tra- dition. HEBRON. This ancient city of the Israelites was situated about fifteen miles south by south-west of Jerusalem, and about eight miles south of Bethlehem. Leaving the city of David, the narrow road leads us occasionally in sight of ruined towns and khans, and a few modern villages. Alternately descending and ascending the hills, we arrive at an elevation which furnishes an extensive prospect. archs, with the cedar, and gold, and ivory, and even the Temple of Jerusalem, hallowed by the visible glory of the Deity himself, are gone; but Solomon's reservoirs are as perfect as ever. Of the ancient architecture of the holy city, not one stone is left upon another; but the pool of Bethesda commands the pilgrim's rever- ence to the present day. The columns of Persepolis are mouldering into the dust; but its cisterns and aquaducts remain to challenge our admiration. The golden house of Nero is a mass of ruins, but the Aqua Claudia still pours into Rome its limpid streams. The temple of the Sun at Tadmor in the wilderness has fallen; but its fountains sparkles as freely in his rays as when thousands of wor- shippers thronge4 its lofty colonades. It may be that London will share the fate of Babylon, and nothing be left to mark its site, save the mounds of crumbling brickwork; but the Thames will continue to flow as it does now. -And if any work of art should still rise over the deep ocean of time, we may well believe that it will be neither palace nor temple, but some vast reservoir. And if the light of any should still flash through the mist of antiquity, it will probably be that of the man who, in his day, sought the happiness of his fellow men rather than glory, and linked his memory to some great work of national utility and benevolence. This is the glory which outlives all other, and shines with undying lustre from generation to generation, im- parting to its work something of its own immortality, and in some degree rescuing therefrom the ordinary monuments of historical tradition of more magnificence. Buffalo Christian Advocate. [24] Far away to the west we behold the fertile plains of ancient Phil- listia, and part of the famous valley of Sharon. Beyond this we catch glimpses of the Great Sea. To the south of us rise the mountains of Northern Arabia, the habitation of Esau and Ishmael. Behind us, but not visible, are Bethlehem and Jerusalem. To the east, rise the irregular mountains that separate us from the Dead Sea. Here Abraham may have stood when he saw over these peaks the column of smoke ascending like a furnace from the des- truction of Sodom. Directly in front of us is a valley narrowing towards the south. This is the Eschol of the time of Joshua, and from this vicinity were borne grapes by the two faithful spies to the camp of Israel, which could not have been far south of Hebron. Down the steps we descend into the valley, still adorned with vine- yards, which overhang the terraces along the sides. Here are also cultivated many other kinds of fruit, such as olives, figs, pome- grantes, apricots and quinces. Among the peculiar attractions -of eastern thoroughfares, are the frequent artificial pools of water, to quench the thirst of man and beast, as well as to supply aqueducts which conduct the limpid stream to distant cities and villages. Among other objects of interest on this route about two miles from Hebron is a majestic oak, about twenty-two feet in diameter, called by the Arabs, Sindian, by Jews and Monks, the tree of Abraham. It must have been near this spot that Abraham sat in his tent door when he beheld the approach of his three guests, but it acquires great credulity to believe that the Patriarch ever saw this tree. Hebron is situated partly in and upon the sides of the valley. The most important present objects of curiosity here, are the pools, situated between the hills, serving for irrigation, as well as refresh- ment; and the tomb of Abraham. This is at the highest part of the city, and at the base of the hills that surround it. It is care- fully guarded by Mahometan soldiersj^nd neither Jew nor Chris- tian can examine it except at some yards distance. The eight courses of stones adorned with pilasters, have a very ancient ap- pearance, and this may indeed be the place where Isaac and Ishmael buried their father Abraham. It would seem miraculous i although quite possible, that the tomb of Abraham should have remained unto this day, when we recollect how many wars and de- solating armies, both ancient and modern, have revolutionized the whole of Palestine. The history of Hebron is quite interesting. It /* [25] is probably the oldest city of the Israelites, and derived its name from Eber, or the home of the Hebrews. From the Bible we learn the following facts. At onetime it was called Kiijathbarba. "New Hebron was built seven years before Zoan in Egypt." Numbers xinth chapter, 23d verse. "Then Abraham removed his tent, and came and dwelt in the plain of Mamre, which is in Hebron, and built there an altar unto the Lord." Genesis, xinth chapter, 23d verse. "Here Sarah died and was buried, and Abraham came to weep for her." Genesis 23. Here Isaac and Eebeckah, Jacob and Leah, were also buried. David reigned seven years in Hebron before he reigned in Jerusalem. 1st Kings, nd chapter, 9th verse. Since the time of the Christian era, Hebron and its vicinity has been a place of some interest. During the Crusade wars in 1192, a great battle was fought in the plain, not far from Hebron, between Kichard Cceur de Leon, leader of the Crusaders, and Saladan (Sahihsed Din,) Prince of the Saracens. Here, then, in this valley, was the first permanent home of the great head and father of the faithful. JERUSALEM. Of this renowned city, the capital of the chosen people, whose various fortunes are so intimately blended with the history of the world and the Bible, so many writers have spoken, that little re- mains to be said that would not be mere repetition. The first intimation of this locality is in the life of Abraham, who left Beer- sheba, and by three days journey arrived at Mount Moriah, there to offer up his son Isaac in obedience to the divine command. It is supposed by many that Mount Moriah was the hill upon which the temple was subsequently erected, but there are good reasons for believing that the hill about seven miles west of Jerusalem, near which stands the tomb of Samuel, was the Moriah of Abraham's time. When Abraham was returning from the battle of the kings, at this place, then called Salem, he met Melchisedec, king of Salem, priest of the most high God. During the life of Isaac and Jacob, no allusion is made to this place. When the Israelites returned 4 [26] from Egypt and entered the land of Canaan, this hill, and others in its vicinity, were occupied by the Jehpites, and the place was called Jehus, which was also the title of its king. Although Joshua de- feated its king (Josh. 12th chap. v. 10th,) and the Judges again obtained a victory over the inhabitants, and burned their city; (Judges 1st, 8th, v.,) the Israelites did not gain possession of it tin til the time of David and Joab, who slew the people and captured the south-west part, and called it the hill of Sion and the city of David, (II Samuel, 5th chap. 7th v.) The native inhabitants may have been greatly reduced at that time, but it does not appear that they were exterminated, or that the temple hill came into posses- sion of Israel until some years subsequently. When the pestilence was upon the city, by reason of David's sin in numbering the people, he bought the hill of Aranna, the Jehusite, and built an alter there- on, which is believed to be the identical spot where Solomon built the temple, II Samuel, ch. 24th, v. 16th to 25th). The locality was within the territory of the tribe of Benjamin. The name of the city is a combination of the Canaanitish word Jehus, war, or war- rior, and the sweetly flowing Hebrew word, Salem, which signifies peace. It thus becomes prophetic, and a type that the war, quarrel, or alienation between God and man shall terminate in peace through the Prince of Peace, who brought in reconciliation. Jerusalem stands embossed upon several hills, with valleys tra- versing the interior as well as surrounding the city on three sides, south-west, south and south-east. The hill on the east or north- east part of the city, called temple mount, is crowned with the Mosque of Omar, and, until quite recently, was inaccessible to any but the followers of the false v prophet. Its elevation above the level of the sea 2280 feet. Eastward it descends rapidly into the valley of the Jehosaphat, somewhat abruptly westward into the city. Southward more moderately toward the foot of Siloam, and northward it extends gradually into a plain from which flows the Hedron, rounding the north-east corner, thence southward on the east of the city, between it and the Mount of Olives. The hill of Zion on the south-west in a commanding position, is a little higher. The valleys Geherii, called Tophet, are in the south- west and south of the city, and join the Kedron at the south-east angle. [27] Jerusalem is surrounded on all sides with still higher mountains, giving an imposing appearance to the scenery, and justifying the language of David : "As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord campeth around about his saints." The most conspi- cuous of these is Mount Olivet. It is directly east of the city over the Kedron rises abruptly to the height of two thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. On the summit stands the convent of the Ascension, where it is asserted Christ ascended to heaven in the presence of his disciples. The tracks of his feet im- pressed in the rock are shown in the Convent, but the careful observer can easily detect the chiseling in the rock, revealing that the miraculous impressions are among the pious frauds with which the east abounds. From the east side of Olivet the Dead Sea may be seen in tho distance. Between Olivet and the Kedron are the remains of many tombs, supposed by travelers to be those of the prophets, or other distinguished persons of antiquity. In the north-west part ol the city the famous Convent of the Cross and the Sepulchre, where many ceremonies are daily performed, which to my apprehension have nothing to do with the religion of the divine Redeemer, who is said here to have expiated the sins of the world. Dr. Robinson has given great attention to the question w T hether this be or be not the very spot of the crucifixion ; and after reading carefully all the evidence on the other side, I am convinced that the Dr. is correct that it is not the locality of our Lord's suffering and death, and that the place is now unknown. Jerusalem was captured and destroyed by Nebuchadnezar about 588 years B. C., rebuilt by Nehemiah about 400 B. C.,and again destroyed by the Romans 70 A. D., since which time its various fortunes have been involved in those of Pagans, Mahomedans, Christians, Crusaders, Turks and Infidels. It is now under the control of the Turkish government. The history of the city and country in the wars of Syria and Egypt for the three centuries preceding the birth of Christ are fully given in my history of the Kingdom of Brass. Jerusalem contains about 20, 000 inhabitants, Christians, Jews and Mahometans. Although there are ruins of many ancient unoccu- pied buildings, there is probably little or nothing remaining which existed in the time of Christ, except a few large hewn stones that inclose a court of the Temple grounds, the pool of Siloam, and a small portion of the western wall near the Jafier gate, where stand* [28] the tower of Hippacus. The circumference of Jerusalem is about two and a half miles. The cite of the city is difficult of access, and in modern times would be a most unfavorable location, but in ancient times the great object in selecting a locality was a point among rocks and precipices, inaccessible and very easy of defense against an invading foe. Now, safety and prosperity depends upon treaty, civilization and the interests of commercial exchange, not upon rocks and walls. This exhibits an evidence of moral and social improvements tending to a universal fraternity in the family of man. Jerusalem that was, is in bondage with his children until this day, but the Jerusalem that is from above, is peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ, and the children of that Jerusalem are free. (Galatians, 4th ch. 25th, 26th verses.)* The famous Mosque of Omar now occupies the site of the once sacred Temple of Solomon. From its inclosure, until quite recent- ly, both Christians and Jews were carefully excluded. Some years ago, Mr. Catherwood succeeded in disguise in gaining access to this sacred edifice. He explored the basement, which he found com- posed of large stone, which he thinks constituted the basement of the ancient temple. At one corner he discovered an arch, from *The Mount of Olives, near Jerusalem, has been purchased by a Madame Polack, the widow of a wealthy banker, of the Hebrew persuasion, at Konigsberg, in Prussia. This lady intends to beauti- fy the place and improve the whole place, at her sole expense. The first thing she has done is to plant the Whole area with a grove of oiive trees, and thus to restore it to the original state from which it derives its name. The olive tree thrives well in that locality, and though it takes many years before arriving at a state of matu- rity, and sixteen years before bearing any fruit at all, it requires but little or no tending, and will last for several hundred years. At the recent annual meeting of the British Society, the chair- man, Sir Culling E. Eardly, mentioned the fact that a railroad is about to be established from the Mediterranean to Jerusalem, with the sanction of the Turkish and British governments, and that it is likely that the material of the line from Balaklava to Sebastopool will be transferred for the purpose. which a dark subterraneous passage extended under the city. He had not the facilities to explore this channel very far. Sometime in the year 1853, a sportsmap, on the west of Jerusalem, shot a bird, which, flying near the ground, disappeared ; the hunter's dog also dropped out of sight; the hunter explored, and discovered a sub- terranean passage, extending under the city- it was cut in the solid rock, and the chips of the quarrying were still lying in the sides of the passage. Subsequently to this, Meacie, a German, but now a citizen of the United States, explored more extensively this secret channel, and found it had many branches, leading to several spacious apartments, in which he found many relics, among others the bones of a camel. He thinks these excavations were made by the Canaanites, but that they were unknown to the Israelites. Still more recent research has traced these channels to the arch beneath the Mosque of Omar. There can now be no doubt but that these channels and vaults were known to Solomon, if, indeed, he did not himself order their construction, and, perhaps, from this source obtained materials for the walls of the city and the temple. We may safely infer that this secret passage from the Temple to the country was known to the kings and high-priests of Judah, although a secret to others, and that by this way Zedeki- ah made his escape when the city was so closely beseiged by the King of Babylon. NABLOUS. From Jerusalem to Sebastee, the ancient Samaria is about thirty miles northward. Leaving the north-west angle of Jerusalem, our route led along a rugged, rocky, barren way, for a time, then de- clined into a more fertile and better district. After about two hours' ride, we halted upon the hill side west of the road to rest a few moments. This is the supposed site of Gibeon. From this place the Gibeonites came forth to Jericho and Ai, to make a treaty craftily with Joshua. It was for this treaty of peace that the five confederated tribes of Canaanites united in war against Gibeon. Here came forth Joshua from Gilgal to defend his confederates. At our feet and west of us, spreads out the Valley of Agalon, where was fought the great battle of deliverance, and the wondrous mira- cle was wrought in the sight of Israel, for the sun stood still upon [30] Gibeon, and the moon in the Valley of Agalon. At that time this hill top was crowned with a great city. It was here that the in- hospitable inhabitants so roughly treated the Levite returning from Bethlehem with his wife, out of which border -ruffian ism sprang a war, that we 11 nigh exterminated the tribe of Benjamin, who were so unwise and unjust as to wink at the atrocity of their brethren- Here was the birth-place, residence and royal court of Saul, the son of Kish. The opposite of this valley was probably the Mich- mash where Jonathan and his armor-bearer went over and discom- fit ted the Philistines, while his cowardly father remained in the city. On this hill side David hung seven of the descendants of Saul, to pacify the Gibeonites. It was near the pool of this city where the twelve servants of David, under pretence of play, caught and slew the twelve servants of Ishbosheth, followed by the assassination of Asahed and Abner. It was on this hill side that the Lord first appeared to Solomon. This city stood in the northern extremity of the tribe of Benjamin. Leaving this locality, so full of interesting associations, we hastened on, and passed the site of Bethhoron, the upper and the lower. Through the valley of Ajalon, and near the pool of this city, ran anciently the great thoroughfare from Jerusalem to the sea, which, though more circuitous, here finds an easier path through the mountains into the valley of the Sharon, and thus to the sea coast. Pursuing our way we passed many little villages and numerous ruins, filled with jackalls, and occasionally passing barren, sterile regions, and yet at times faHing into green and beautiful valleys, aboun ding in water-springs, we at length halted at THE WELL OF SAMARIA. This is the parcel of ground said to be given by Jacob to his son Joseph. The evidence of that gift seems to be but imperfectly recorded ; the few facts seem to be these : here dwelt Shechera, son of King Homer, who, with his father, his brethren and his people, were slain in consequence of the affair with Dinah. Here came the boy Joseph, to hunt for his brethren, who kept their sheep in this vicinity. From- the city of Sychar, now Nablous, once came a woman to draw water. Here she met the Divine Master. Here He poured forth that water of eternal life, of which, if one drink> he shall never thirst. [31] Mount Ebal and Mount G-erizim lift their high heads in full view. Upon the top of the latter stood the pagan temple, erected one hundred years B. C. and dedicated to Antiochus Epiphanese. Here the Samaritans assembled for worship, while the Jews say that at Jerusalem alone ought men to worship God. The Master now taught that the place is not on this mountain^ nor at Jerusalem, but in spirit, for God is a Spirit, and they that worship Him must worship Him, in spirit and in truth. This well is inclosed with a broken wall, and surrounded with shrubbery. It is nearly ten feet in diameter, and about an hundred feet deep. Its mouth is partially covered with slabs of stone ; the water is not now used. The hills in the vicinity abound in springs and supplies of water. When, or by whom this well was dug, is quite uncertain. Tradition refers it to Jacob, but the old Testa- ment gives no evidence that he constructed it. It was probably built within a city of Sechem, by the Amorites, before Jacob's day. From Jacob's Well we moved westward along a gradually ascend- ing valley, exceedingly rich and beautiful, adorned with a great profusion of fields and gardens, while the lower sides of the hills are crowned with groves of vines, pomegranites, mulberry and olive. The fertility of this valley is probably unsurpassed in any part of Palestine. The loveliness and attractiveness of the scene is greatly heightened by contrast with the ragged, sterile mountain tops that overhang this garden of paradise. Leaving Nablous, the ancient city of Sychar, on our right; we continued to ascend the valley, and encamped at the foot of Ebal. Directly in front of us, on the east, by south, rose East Gerizim. These two mountains rise to the height of one thousand feet above the valley, and two thousand seven hundred feet above the level of the Mediterranean Sea. How exceedingly interesting the events that transpire here. In this valley, led by Joshua, the whole host of Israel encamped. On this spot an altar of stone was erected, and covered with plaster, upon which was written the laws and commandments of Moses. The tribes divide six of them ascend the sides of Girizim on the south-east, emblem of the source of light, while the other six climb the dizzy heights of Ebalin, the north-west, the token of darkness and death. The law of Moses is read unto them. And as the blessings upon the faithful are pronounced, the voice of the Eastern tribes echo through the valley, and re-echo from Ebal's height, [32] saying, ""We will serve the Lord all these things we will do." Then the curses are read, and Ebal responds to Gerizim, "Even so let it he. All these woes be ours if we keep not the law of our God." For this reason one of these mountains has been called the Mount of Blessings, and the other the Mount of Cursings. How terribly has the obedience and its attendant blessings been surpassed by the disobedience and calamities resulting therefrom, which have fallen heavily upon the descendants of those who, upon that day, stood on these mountain sides. Upon the top of Mount Gerizim stood Gothem, when with a loud voice, he hailed the men of Shechem, in this valle} T , and gave them the parable of the trees, holding a consultation for the election of a king. In this valley of Shechem before me, occurred the wars be- tween Alimeleck and the men of Shechem. Nablous is a town of about six thousand inhabitants. They are the most robber-like and ungovernable people in all Palestine. "We avoided the inhabitants and did not enter the town. Its name is the Arabic of Neapolis, one of the titles of Yespatian, the father of Titus, who destroyed Jerusalem in the year seventy. In a Samari- tan synagogue is a copy of the pentateuch, which tradition asserts to be as old as the day of Moses. As we did not see this manu- script, I will give a description from another writer : It proved to be a large roll, kept in a brass cover, and adorned with various costly coverings of crimson silk, and embroidered in letters of gold. We examined the manuscript with all the care we could, and noticed, besides its antiquity, that it was written in columns of about five, by fourteen inches, and three of these to what may be termed a page. We were permitted to touch the valuable manuscript, to look as closely as we chose at the various peculiarities it possesses the color of the ink, the size, shape, and character of the alphabet, the arrangement of the words and sentences, &c., and, in short, to enter upon any examination which our time or our wishes allowed us. The old rabbi was very obliging in every way, and in answer to our inquiries as to the probable age of the manuscript before us, did not scruple to declare that it belonged to the period of Moses. This was more than we could credit, though we entertained no sort of doubt that the Samaritan Pentateuch is of an age that en- titles it to the very great consideration of JBiblical questions. [33] MOUNT TABOE. The modern name of this mountain is Gibelet Tor. It stands on the north side of the plain, and north-west of little Hermon. It is in a conical form, and rises gracefully to the giddy height (un- estimated by some) of three thousand feet. Its sides are adorned with vegetation and groves of fruit trees, but the mountain now is entirely uninhabited by human beings. The summit is crowned with the remains of strong fortifications; for Tabor, in her time, has been a great military fortress, and upon and arouud it has been fought many a battle. Now, no voice of trumpet, nor clash of arms, nor tread of hos- tile force, breaks the solitude of this retired spot. From its sum- mit we have perhaps the grandest prospect in the world. Before us lay the far spreading valley of Gezrael, narrowing away to the north-west. On the opposite side, the broken ridges of Gilboa and the moun- tains of Ephraim, almost to Jerusalem, could be seen. In the north-west, we could distinctly discern the bald head of Carmel, standing sentry at the sea. North of us, range upon range stretch- ed away to the Lebanon, with its snow-capped peaks. Eastward lay the Jordan and the little hills before us, and beyond it the ranges of Gilead. In the north-east, distinctly visible, lay the sea of Tiberius, and not far from us stood the little Hermon, famous for its sweet and refreshing dews. Each of the objects before us is the memento of thrilling histori- cal events, and as we grasp them all from one point, the entire history of the country, like the Kishon at our feet, seems to pass in panoramic view before us; and Tabor, called by the natives Gebelet Tor, is not the least important among them. Here Barak, encouraged by the presence of the prophetess Deborah, smote the hosts of Galin^ under the command of Sisara, overturned his nine hundred chariots of iron, and scattered the hosts of his foes like the forest leaves before the winter's blas. From this mountain side Sisara fled on foot, and, being decoyed, was slain by the woman Gail, the wife of the Kenite, for whose defeat and assassination Deborah and Barak sung a song of triumph. Upon this Mount, of whose glory and beauty David has sung, other scenes than these have transpired. Somewhere upon this mountain-top our Lord and Master unfold- ed the glory of His spiritual nature in the transfiguration, to tho 5 amazement of the chosen three, when his garments became white as no fuller on earth could white them, and his face shone with the radiance of the sun. The plain below us has been the battle field of all ages and races. Here Saul and Jonathan contended with the Philistines. Here the Jews, under Judas Macabus, strove against their persecutors. Here, oft did the Eomans fight against both Jews and Syrians. Here, in later times, the gallant Kleber and Napoleon defeated the vastly superior forces of the great Turkish army. Dr. Clark thus speaks of this great battle-field : " It has been a chosen place for encampment in every contest carried on in this country, from the days of Nebuchadnezzar, King of Asyria, (in the history of whose war with Arphaxed it is men- tioned as the great plain of Esdulom,) until the disastrous march of Napoleon Bonaparte from Egypt into Syria. Jews, Gentiles, Saracens, Christian Crusaders, and Anti-Christian, Frenchmen, Egyptians, Persians, Druses, Turks and Arabs, war- riors of every nation that is under heaven, have pitched their tents upon the plain of Esdulom, and have beheld the various banners of their nations wet with the dews of Tabor and Hermon." Well might Armaggeddon become the representative of all future strifes, and battle to the end of time. GALILEE. Bidding adieu to the vale of Gezrael, about twelve miles, or four hours' ride over hills and dales, rich in associations of historical events of the early conflicts and the Crusade wars, we issue out of the mountains into the basin of the Galilee, and repaired to the town of Tiberius, now Tuberich, on the shore of the sea. In 1837, the town was nearly destroyed by an earthquake. It now contains little of interest, except the recollection of what has anciently been performed here and in the vicinity, so long the residence and so often the visiting place of the Lord. The sea of Galilee, also called Tiberius, is a sheet of water varying from five to ten miles wide, and, perhaps, eighteen feet long, of an irregular oval shape. It is supplied by the Jordan, which, rising far in the mountains in the north, and passing through Lake Merome, discharges into this sea, and, running directly through it, issues out on the south, and continues its course to the Dead Sea. The interval, or level land around this sea, is but a narrow strip, [35] the mountains often projecting quite to the water's edge. The cities that anciently adorned this region were, chiefly Capernaum, Chorasin, Bethsaida, and Tiberius, while Nazareth was situated a little in the rear among the mountains. On the east of the sea, we behold a broken country, through whose passes ran the caravan route, extending to Damascus, in Syria. From thence came the mighty armies of Benhadad and Hazael, and afterwards of Shallmenesser, Senacherib and Nebu- ^hadnezzar, to invade and desolate Israel and Judah. THE YALLEY OE THE JORDAN. This is one of the most remarkable geological portions of the earth. The general course of the river is directly southward, re- ceiving small tributaries from the west, and occasionally larger ones from the east. At times the river flows gently along, spreads out wide, and is fordable at least during a portion of the year ; at other places it is at least from a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet wide, with a deep, swift current, sweeping everything before it; occasionally descending cataracts. On the west are the mountains of Israel and Judah. On the east are the ranges of Gilead, and the ruins of ancient cities. Here was the scene of Absolem's death. Here was the Eaimoth Gilead, at whose siege Ahab received his mortal wound. Gilgal and the quarries are in this valley. Jericho and Ai are in the south part of it, separated from Jerusalem by the mountains of the wilderness, distinguished for being the haunt of robbers, and thus appropriately furnishing the theme for our Lord's parable of a man going from Jerusalem down to Jericho and falling among thieves and robbers. According to the observation of Col. Lynch, the Dead Sea lies 4000 feet below Jerusalem, and 1300 feet below the Mediterranean, and is, consequently, the lowest spot on the surface of the earth. The water contains sulphur and other salts, held in solution. All the waters of the Jordan flowing into thia sea are disposed of by evaporation, and return in the clouds to sup- ply the springs and fountains. Had the Jordan continued its course in the same direction, it would have terminated in the east arm of the Eed Sea, and thus become connected with the ocean. But the mountains of Edom are elevated between, and prevent the stream from flowing further. [36] There is a most remarkable valley called by the Arabs, Algor, extending in a direct line from the Dead Sea to the Eed Sea, more than two-thirds of the way. From a short distance a small stream now runs northward into the Dead Sea ; but Algor has unmistakable evidences of being the deserted channel of a large stream, whose waters once flowed south- ward. The mountains of Bdom are evidently of a volcanic and eruptive origin. Connecting these facts together, and associating them to- gether with the account of the destruction of Sodom and Gomorah, and the cities of the plain, I cannot resist the conclusion that the Jordan once found its way through northern Arabia to the sea, and that on the day when Lot went out of Sodom, while the Lord rained fire and brimstone on the devoted cities, there was a great earth- quake connected with a volcanic eruption, in which the earth typed, the mountains of northern Arabia were heaped up to their present elevation, carrying up the bed of the stream with them, while the plains above descended to the level of the Dead Sea. This would account for the ancient fertility and subsequent barrenness of Arabia Petra. SYRIA. This country is believed to have been first peopled by the descend- ants of Aram the fifth, and youngest son of Shem, but the original occupants of the soil were removed and their places supplied by Assyrians in the time of Shalmanaser. Syria proper lies between the north part of the Mediterranian sea on the west and the Euphra- tus, on the east, between the mountain. chain of Taums and Amanus on the north, and Arabia Palestine and Prenicia on the south and south-west. Its length from North to South was about three hun- dred miles, and, from East to West, about a hundred and eighty miles; in all not quite as large as the State of New York, but a much more extensive country, all its borders were sometimes in- NOTE. From a geographical necessity, all flowing streams must terminate ultimately in water containing salt or other saline mat- ter, whether it be the ocean or an island sea or lake. NOTE 2. The Dead Sea is, in many respects, situated similarly with that of Salt Lake, on this continent. Both are cut off from communication with other waters; both have mountains on the west, between them and the great sea, not far distant. [37] eluded in the general name Syria. This country seems at times to have been formed of four confederate States, Hobah, Hamoth, Damascus and G-eshur, at other times all were blended into one government until it was finally absorbed into the great Assyrian Empire, about the same time that Samaria ceased to be a king- dom. The most important cities of Syria were Damascus, Antioc Aphonia, Sebucia and Helbon. About the time of Solomon, king of Israel, Syria must have shared largely in the commerce of that day and abounded in riches. The most remarkable ruins in Syria are Palmyra or Tadmore in the wilderness, and Balbeck between Lebanon and ante Lebanon. DAMASCUS EL SHAM. After days of wearisome travel from Galilee and the Jordan in a north-easterly direction, over an uneven route, diversified by barren wastes, and fertile plains, variegated hills and fruitful groves, through Syrian villages and Arab encampments, we ascend- ed a little swell of ground, and halting in the shade of an orchard of figs, our eyes were greeted with a view of Damascus, the city of beauty, which we soon after entered by the south gate. What solemn thoughts crowd upon one's mind as he approaches the cap- ital of ancient Syria. It was to this city Saul was journeying, when a light, far surpassing the brightness of the sun, surprised him, and for a time arrested his progress, until the object of his visit was changed from one of cruel persecution to a desire to be restored to his sight, that he might preach Jesus whom before he persecuted. It was from this city that afterwards he escaped through a window by being let down the wall in a basket, the gate being guarded to apprehend him. Damascus was a city in the days of Abraham it had been subject to Talmmath, bat it became the capital of a separate kingdom in the time of David. It was de- molished in the time of Tiglathpillasser according to the prophesy of Isaiah, but revived again under the Babylonian authority. It [38] was at one time the store-house of the Persians. Their treasures, with the city, were captured by Alexander of Macedon. Their successors built Appanna and Antioch, and thus diminished some- what of the prosperity of Damascus. Yet it is so favorably situ- ated for the great caravan trade, that it has continued to flourish and is still prosperous. Below the city is still to be seen a part of the most ancient wall, evincing that Damascus was once much larger than at present. The modern wall does not enclose all of the inhabitants, but many splendid buildings are without the enclosure. The streets of Da- mascus are often narrow and muddy. The walls of the buildings, though often lofty, are of unburnt brick and of a dirty and uninvit- ing appearance. The doors are low and narrow, but within one often finds splendid apartments, where every luxury ministers to the sense, and intoxicates with excess of pleasure. The Syrian name of this city is El Sham, but by the Arabs it is called Demeesk, the terminating syllable being added by the western natives. The following, from an unknown author, is substantially a correct history and description of the ancient home of the Benha- dads. "The city of Damascus we find mentioned in Gen., 15 chap., 2d verse, as the place of Abram's Steward, Elitha; and it must have been, therefore, one of the earliest cities in the world, and is one of the very few, that with the exception of a short period of Assyrian domination, have maintained a flourishing existence in all ages. It is situated in east longitude, 36 deg. 25 min., and north latitude 33 deg. 27 min.; on the north-west of an extensive and remarkably level plain, which is open eastward beyond the reach of vision, but is bounded in every other direction by mountains, the nearest of which, those of Salekie to the north-west, are not quiet two miles from the city. These hills give rise to the River Banacly, and to various rivulets which afford the city an abundant supply of water, and render its district one of the most pleasant and fertile of western Asia. The district within a circumference of from twenty to twenty -five miles, is covered with well watered gardens and orchards, in the midst of which stands the town itself." It thus appears as a vast wood, and its almost innumerable pub- lic buildings, including an extensive citadel and a vast number of mosques, with their domes and minarets, give it a fine appearance, as viewed from the neighboring hills; but on approaching over the [39] level plain, the plantations by which it is environed, shade it entire- ly from view. Its finest building is a grand mosque of the Corinthian order, said to have been built as a cathedral church by the emperor Tele- machus. It was dedicated to St. John of Damascus, and is still called the mosque of St. John the Baptist, by the Turks, who be- lieve that in the latter days Jesus shall descend thereon, and from its summit require the adhesion of all his followers to the Moslem faith. The city is surrounded by an old wall of sun-dried brick ? strengthened with towers; but this wall has fallen to decay, and the town has so greatly extended beyond its limits, that the num- ber of houses without the wall greatly exceeds that within. The houses in the city have flat roofs, while those in the suburbs have domes. Damascus is said to contain five hundred mansions, en- titled to be called palaces, and the general splendor is much extoll- ed in the east. But little of this is visible in the streets, which, in general, pre- sent walls of mud or sun-dried brick, which fill the narrow streets with dust in dry weather, and render them perfect quagmires when it rains. The houses themselves are built of the same materials, although stone might be easily obtained from the adjoining moun- tains. These streets present scarcely any windows, and only low an^ mean looking doors; but these often conduct to large interior courts^ paved with marble, refreshed by gushing fountains, and surround- ed by apartments ornamented and furnished in the best and rich- est oriental taste. The thirsty Arabs, from the desert, regard Damascus with rap- ture, and are never tired of expatiating on the freshness and ver- dure of its orchards, the variety of its fruits, and, more than all, its numerous streams, and the clearness of its rills and fountains. There is a tradition, that Mahomet, coming to the city, viewed it with great admiration from the mountain Salhie, and then turned away, refusing to approach, with the remark that there was but one paradise designed for man, and he was determined that his should not be in this world; but there is no historical foundation for this story. Damascus is about six miles in circumference, and its population is estimated, by Mr. Buckingham, at 143,000, of which 90,000 are native Syrian Arabs, 10,000 Turks, 15,000 Jews, and 25,000 Christians. But Mr. Kichardson does not estimate the [40] Christian population at more than 12,000. Damascus is the rendez- vous of many thousand pilgrims, who proceed to Mecca in one great body every year, and many of whom make a considerable stay before the caravan departs, and most of whom unite commer- cial with religious objects, loading their beasts with the produce of their own countries, which they dispose of on the road, bringing back, in the same manner, the products of India, received from Jeddo, the port of Mecca. This has contributed greatly to the pros- perity of Damascus, which is, also, the emporium of an extensive caravan trade with parts of the Mediterranean on the west, and with Bagdad on the east. Damascus has obtained fame for some of its manufactures. The fine temper of its sword-blades has long been proverbial. This reputation has, however, of late years much declined; but the Damascans still excel in the art of inlaying metals with gold. The manufacture of the kind of silk called "Damask" originated here. It would seem from the 1st Kings, xi: 23d and 24th, that Damas- cus first became in the time of David or Solomon, the capitol of an independent kingdom, which afterwards, as the "kingdom of Syria," was engaged in various wars with the Jews. It was ultimately annexed to the empire of Assyria, and after- wards with the rest of western Asia, passed to the Greeks, then to the Eomans, and at last to the Arabians, under whom Damascus became the capitol of the Caliphate, when Moamiyah, its governor, assumed that office in opposition to Ali. It underwent many changes during the disorder of the middle ages, and was finally conquered, along with all Syria, by the Sultan Selim. In the late war between the Porte and the Pacha of Egypt, Damascus was taken by the troops of the latter, under his son Ibrahim Pacha, and it still remains subject to his authority, having been ceded to him by the treaty of peace, in 1833. The inhabitants of Damascus have the reputation of being the most haughty and intolerent people of Turkey; but the measures of Mahomet Ali, have already tended greatly to subdue, or control, their former spirit. APPAMA AND SELETJCIA, On the west coast of Syria, and north of Phoenicia, were built by the Selucidso, between 250 and 150 B. C. [41] HEBRON, Famous for its wine and wool, is supposed to occupy the sit* of the modern city of Aleppo. ANTIOCH. In the army of Alexander the Great, was a general by the name of Antiochus. He had a son whose name was Seleucus, sometimes called Nicator, the conqueror. In the army of the great Macedo- nian, this Seleucus had the command of all the elephants. After the death of his father, he rose to distinction, and, in the partition of Alexander's empire, he became king of Syria. In honor of his father he built a city, calling it, after his name, Antioch. Others afterwards added something to the original city, until it became for beauty and splendor, the third city of the world. The capitol was removed from Damascus, by its founder, and established in this city, where it remained many generations^ Of the several kings, who reigned in this city, an account will be given in the history of Alexander and his successors. Antioch was situated in the north- west part of Syria, on the Orontes river, about twenty miles from its mouth, and about five miles above the famous Daphne. It was founded about 290 B. C. In 1735, A.D., it suffered severely from the shock of an earthquake, and is now in a state of desolation. Antioch was situated among the mountains, and the scenery is grand in the extreme in the immediate vicinity of the city. Here the disciples were first called Christians. Daphne was a grove of cypress and bay trees, surrounding a number of sparkling fountains. In and around this grove were splendid edifices, and, among others, a temple of Apollo and Diana. Daphne was the great pleasurable resort of the grandies of Syria, in olden times. The temple is now in ruins, and to these rural gods none are BO poor as to do reverence. The worshipers are gone, the altars no more smoke with incense, and their divinities are left alone in their glory. [42] BALBECK. With elated spirits our little band of reserve bade adieu to Da- mascus, the beautiful, and, facing westward, commenced our jour- ney, while our thoughts, outstriping our speed, flew away to our far home, beyond the rolling sea. We followed up the stream a short distance, and then, bearing over to the left, made our way over a hilly country, with intervening valleys and rivulets of cool, refresh- ing water. Occasionally we passed small villages, in the midst of gardens and groves of fruit trees. At night, having traveled, as we suppos- ed, about twenty-five miles, we halted, and made our encampment near a small stream, and in sight of a village containing a mosque and convent. We were strongly tempted to visit the convent, and throw our- selves upon its hospitality, where we should probably have been kindly received, but finally 'con eluded to spend the night in our own tent. The camels were soon secured, and with the broken limbs of tihe bay-tree a fire was soon kindled, and our evening's repast pre- pared. A number of men and boys, from the village, visited us, whose friendly appearance gave us a sense of security. From them we learned that the village was called El Dous. A guard was stationed for the night, and soon most of us, stretch- ed upon our blankets, were in a profound sleep. At an early hour the next morning, we were under way, and that day crossed the chain of Anti-Lebanon. Our route was almost entirely through an uninhabited region, except that twice a traveling company of Arabs crossed our path. In some places the mountains were rag- ged, barren, bold and picturesque; large eagles were seen flying from crag to crag, uttering their wild scream, which echoed through the solitudes of those rough places of creation. The second night, we encamped on the west of Anti-Lebanon, and in the plain of Celo-Syria; and on the third day, bearing much more to the north, we approached, late in the afternoon, a bluff or rising ground, and again encamped by the side of a stream. Now we were in the midst of an inhabited and cultivated district, but, having become quite accustomed to bivouac, we, as usual, preferred the open air, as the weather was calm and mild. The next morning, we ascended a gentle elevation, and before us stood, in bold relief, [43] THE ETJINS OF BALBECK. ? On this plain once stood a city, called by the native inhabitants Balbeck, which may signify the city of the Lord, (Baal,) or the city of the Sun. By the Greeks it was called Tlehopolis, which also signifies the city of the Sun. It is probable that, among others, the sun was the principal deity worshiped here; hence the name of the city and temple. There are no inhabitants on the exact site of the ancient city, but in the immediate vicinity is a village; here, also, is a mosque and a convent, where bigoted devotees per- form their senseless devotions. The remains of three temples are still to be seen among the ruins, two of which are of Grecian architecture, and were undoubtedly erected after the time of the Grecian invasion in the east. They are far gone to decay. The mQst splendid ruin, at Balbeck, is the old temple which .bears the name of the city. The edifice was eight hundred feet long and five hundred feet wide, and would accommodate many thousand worshipers at a time. The roof was a large flat stone, reposing upon the walls, and upon pillars in the interior. On this roof, in time of the crusade wars, stood twenty thousand Turkish soldiers, and successfully re- sisted the invading Christians below. This roof, and the beautiful lintel over the east door, were broken and shattered by an earth- quake in 1722. A wedge-form piece of the lintel still hangs sus- pended over the door. Part of the wall of the temple is composed of hard sand-stone, so perfectly polished and adjusted to each other that it would be difficult to insert a fine-knife blade between tho pieces. A part of the old wall, that once surrounded the city, still re- mains. Some writers suppose it was never completed. At a quar- ry, not far distant, lies a huge stone lion, and, near it, another, in an unfinished state. It is inferred that these images were intended to be placed upon the corners of the walls of the city this, how- ever, is only conjecture. In the wall now standing, are three of the largest stone' ever known to have been used in building. They repose indirectly one upon the other, and are severally ten feet in horizontal diameter, fourteen feet in perpendicular height, and sixty-eight feet in length. By what mighty power they were ever placed in their present condition, is more than I can conjecture. It was in the temple of Balbeck, that I studied to advantage the atyle of architecture of the days of king Solomon for thera is [44] no room to doubt that this temple was erected by order of that mon- arch, and that Balbeck was Balwiatte of the Bible. On the caps and pillars, in the adornings of cornices, and on lin tels of doors, in the solid stone, are carved lilys, whose expanded petals are often a foot or eighteen inches in length, wrought with exquisite skill; the cap of the pillars, also, are wrought pomegran- ates, similar to those noticed in Tadmore, and described in another article. In-wrought and binding, the whole is a carved net-work. These three elements of the work of Solomon the lily, the pome- granate, and the net-work abound at Balbeck and Tadmore, and are symbols, whose signification belongs to the great science of em- blems. The lily signifies peace, purity, or freedom from war; the pomegranate is the emblem of fruitfulness, of plenty; and the net- work of unity or brotherly love. In these temples there are an enigma, whose meaning must be found in the life and times of king Solomon. The holy temple at Jerusalem, for the Israelites the temple to Herculese, in Tyre, for the Phoenicians and the tem- ples of Balbeck and Tadmore, for the Syrians were erected, not only for religious worship, but to facilitate the commercial enter- prise of those times. By the spirit of commerce and adventure, Solomon and Hiram secured the co-operation of tjie Syrians, and extended trade through the world. The first result of their enter- prise was an universal peace; hence the Z%, in the temples of their erecting. The second result was, that all nations were enriched by this commerce; and "Solomon made gold and silver to abound in the streets of Jerusalem," hence the pomegranate. To accomplish these enterprises, the Israelites, under Solomon, the Phcenecians, under Hiram, and the Syrians, under .Resin, were bound together in one bundle of fraternal regard. The glory and beauty of Bal- beck fully justify the descriptions given by the early authors. Arabian writers speak of Balbeck as "the wonder of Syria." One of them says: "Balbeck is a city of three days' journey from Damascus, where are wonderful structures and magnificent vestiges of antiquity, and palaces with marble columns, such as in the whole world are no- where else to be seen." Every one who has seen the ruins, which here present themselves to the travelers' eye, will not think the Arabian writer has used much exaggeration in his language. On the south-west of the city, is situated in a charming plain, on the west foot of Anti- [45] Lebanon, lie the ruins of a very ancient temple, together with the remains of some other edifices, and, among the rest, a truly mag- nificent palace. These ancient structures have now been converted into a castle or fort. Among these ruins is a rotunda, or pile of buildings, surrounded with pillars of the Corinthian order, which support a cornice that runs all around the structure the whole ex- ecuted in a style of great elegance, but now in a very dilapidated condition. It is for the most part of marble, and, though round on the outside, is an octagon within. It is adorned with eight arches, supported by eight Corinthian columns, each of one single piece. But the Greeks, who now live here, and who use this rotunda as a church, have spoiled the beauty of the inside, by daubing it over with plaster. Leaving this, the visitor arrives at a large and very lofty pile of buildings, which bear the appearance of having been added in later times. Through this pile one passes into a noble iarched walk, or portico, one hundred and fifty paces long, which leads to the temple. This building, which has resisted no less the corroding tooth of time, than the destructive madness of superstitious man, is yet in a good state of preservation. It is an oblong square its length, on the outside, one hundred and ninety-two feet, and its breadth ninety. The pronaos consisted of fifty-four feet, of the one hun- dred and ninety-two, but is now tumbled down, and the pillars, which supported it are crumbled to pieces. The whole body of this temple, as it now stands, is surrounded by a noble portico, support- ed by pillars, of the Corinthian order, six feet three inches in dia- meter, and about fifty-four feet in height, and each of the three stones a piece. Their distance from each other, and from the walls of the tem- ple, is nine feet. There are fourteen of them on each side of the temple, and eight at each end, and containing the corner pillars in each number. The architrave and cornice, which are supported all around by these pillars, are exquisitely carved. [46] HISTOKY OF PHOENICIA. Now, let us rest awhile. Here we are on Mount Lebanon. We will repose in this grove, and, like Omar, lean against a cedar, which spreads its branches over our heads. Perhaps this is the grove, and this the cedar, where the Hirams, king of Tyre, and the widow's son, rested themselves, when wearied with giving directions to the work- men, who were here preparing timber, to send to Jerusalem, for the Temple. What a fine place to .slide the timber down the mountain! What a noble bay spreads out before us to receive the floats, where the placid waters are ready to bear them southward to Joppa, from thence to be taken by land to Jerusalem, the city of Peace. How blest was Solomon in having such a friend and ally, and such a for- est in which to obtain building materials! How peaceful those times, not like those that preceded, or that succeded, the three great Master Masons. Before us is spread out the whole of that far-famed land, ancient Phosnicia. Its length from north to south is about 120 miles, and its breadth about 20 miles. Phoenicia had four prominent cities. In the extreme north on a little island, stood ARAB; about 18 miles south was, and still is, TRIPOLIS; still farther south was BERYTUS (now Beyroot;) and yet, still farther, SIDON; and at the extreme southern point was TYRE, of great renown. Between these were other small cities, so that the whole land was like one continuous city, filled with active, bustling, living beings. Much of the early history of this, like every other country, is involved in uncertainty and fabulous traditions, so much so that it is rather a matter of curiosity than useful knowledge; but out of this confusion, some facts of re- liable history can be gathered. Along this rugged coast, now spread out before us, the blessed Master once walked and preached the word, to "City full and forest waste," when he retired from the scoffing Jews. Matthew xv: 21. The old patriarch Ham, the son of Noah, after the flood, with his wife and sons, started from the foot of Mount Ararat (like mod- ern emigrants going to Oregon) to seek their fortune. Cush went to the land of Havila, and from him sprang the Chaldeans and the Babylonians. Mizraim remained with his father; Ham settled on the banks of the Nile, but, by some unknown track, found his way to Ethiopia, to scorch his skull in the torrid zone; while Cjnaan stopped here, at the foot of Mount Lebanon, to build factories, and cities, and vessels. [4T] It should seem that the wife of Ham was of the family of Cain, and not Seth. The genealogies of the Phoenicians run back to t:ie first man through that line, although they do hot mention the flood. The oldest son of Canaan was Sidon, an enterprising lad, who, in his youth, loved to play in the mud. He built several mud-houses, and dug a trench around them, to protect himself from his neigh- bors and the wild blasts. This, ultimately, grew into the famous city of Sidon, on the sea side. After a time, Sidon sent out two companies of emigrants, one of which planted Arad, on the north, and the other T} T re, on the south. From these three, a colony planted Tripolis, which signifies "from three cities." Tyre soon outstripped the others, and became the great metro- politan city of western Asia. This pre-emimence she maintained, until the subjugation of all that land by Alexander the Great, about three hundred and thirty years before the Christian era. On account of power and glory the amount of her manufactor- ies the multitude of her colonies the extent of her commerce the bravery of her defence and the terribleress of her fall Tyre deserves more than a passing notice on the page of history. At the southern point of Phoenicia, the sea rounded up into the land, forming a beautiful bay, about a mile and a half broad. In the opening of this bay, toward the sea, was an island about half a mile in diameter, and about the same distance from the main land on each side, and a mile from the land directly toward the conti- nent. Tyre was originally built upon the main land, with the no- ble bay in front of it. It was surrounded by a high, strong wall. Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon, besieged this city, and after thir- teen years of labor and toil he succeeded in taking the city, about the year 580 B. C. During this long siege, the inhabitants were occupied in building a wall and houses upon the island, to which they removed with all the treasures. Nebuchadnezzar gained nothing but vexation by all this great enterprise. (Consult Ezekiel xxix: 18.) It does not appear that the Tyrians ever submitted to the govern- ment of the Babylonians, although they may have paid tribute for the sake of peace.* All the rest of Phoenicia became part of the empire of the east, and, with Babylon itself, passed into the Persian empire, when Cyrus the Great came to the throne, about 536 B. C.; *Tyre paid tribute to Babylon and Persia, from 580 B. C. to 510 B.C., under Darius, when she became again independent. [48] in which condition they continued, either as dependent provinces or confederate allies, until Alexander over-ran the whole land, about 330 before the Christian era. The history of Phoenicia may be divided into two parts. First, that which preceeded second, that which succeeded -the siege of Old Tyre by Nebuchadnezzar; or old Tyre and New Tyre. Both parts are fall of interesting events. Phoenicia was a confederation of States, very much like the United States, united for all foreign purposes, but each prominent city an independent State for all in- ternal regulations, governed usually by a king instead of a gover- nor, who was, more or less, controlled by a Council coresponding to a modern State Legislature. It was under this most happy form of confederate government, that Phoenicia maintained her unity and independence, and rose to so great prosperity. The events worthy of particular comment in the early history of Phoenicia, before the siege, are: 1. Sending letters and science into Greece by Cadmus, about the time of Joshua in Israel. 2. The reign of Hiram, the friend of David and Solomon, and the building of the temple. 3. The reign of Ithobal, the father of Jezebel, wife- of Ahab, in the time of Elijah,' the prophet. 4. The flight of Dido to Africa, to plant Carthage. 5. The reign of Ithobal II, who was killed at the siege of Old Tyre by Nebuchadnezzar. Each will be taken up in order. There was a king in Phoenicia, whose name was Agenor, and who had many sons and daughters. His eldest son's name was Phoenix, from whom came the name of the whole country of Europa. The daughter of Agenor was stolen, and carried into Crete. From her sprang the name of Europe, as applied by the Phoenicians to all west of themselves. Cadmus, brother of Europa, was sent to hunt for her, but, not succeeding in finding her, he passed over into Greece, then a barbarous country. Not "daring to return, he built a city in Greece, calling it Cadmum, which was afterwards changed to Thebes. Cadmus introduced the use of letters, and written language, among the barbarians. From this arose all the classical science, the lite- rature, and the philosophy of learned Greece; and for this Phoeni- cian kindness the Greeks afterward repaid their instructors, by over-running their land with armies, and desolating their cities, often drenching their streets with human blood. Such is the jua- tice of this world! [49] The frequent intercourse of Cadmus with the Egyptians, had rendered him familiar with the wisdom of that land of early sci- ence. Apolodorus gives this mythe as follows: "Agenor and Belus were the sons of Neptune by Lybia, daugh- ter of Epaphus. Belus remained in Egypt, and married the daugh- ter of Nilus, who gave birth to Egyptus and Danaus. Agenor emi- grated to Phoenicia, and' became the father of a numerous race ; .he married Telephe, by whom he had Europa, Phoenicis, Cadmus, Cilix, Electra,and Thasus. Agenor had also other wives and other children. Europa was stolen by Jupiter, transformed into a bull, and carried to Crete. Agenor, being extremely grieved at the loss of his daughter, sent his son Cadmus, with a large sum of money in quest of her, but as "he did not find her, and dared not return without her, he resolved to go and settle elsewhere. With this de- sign, having fitted out a small fleet, he put to sea, and landed in Thrace, where he was so fortunate as to discover a gold mine on Mount Pangesus. "Being enriched with metal, and in a condition to pursue his en- terprise, he was advised by the Oracle of Delphos to leave Thrace and proceed to Bceotia. He obeyed the Oracle, and went thither and founded a kingdom, and built a city called Cadmum after- wards called Thebes." This is a mixture of truth and fable. Let us try to separate the true elements, and find out the facts. Agenor was the king of Phoenicia, and Belus was Sesostris, the king of Egypt. They are called sons of Neptune, because they traveled by sea as well as by land. They were not brethren, ex- cept in arms and deeds of war, but were related by marriage. Telephe, the wife of Agenor, was the sister of that Pharaoh, who was drowned in the Eed Sea, and to Sesostris, the Belus of the le- gend. Egyptus and Danaus were not the sons, but the younger brothers of Sesostris, and cousins of Cadmus. Agenor and Belus are called the sons of Neptune by Lybia, because they, together, went over the sea, to conquer that country which lies in the north of Africa, and west of Egypt. This expedition was in progress at the time that Moses was working miracles in Egypt, before Pharaoh, the father of Sesostris. On their return, each went to his own kingdom. 7 [50] Tempestous times those must have been when king Agenor reigned in Phoenicia. Moses ha'd just left Egypt, with the twelve tribes of Israel. The old Pharaoh was dead; his eldest son had perished with the first born; and Sesostris, the second son, had re- turned from Lybia. He committed the care of the home govern- ment to his younger brothers, Egyptus and Danaus, and, with a new army, commenced ravaging Asia. He subdued the Philistines, depressed the Canaanites, and marched victoriously to Persia, and perhaps, to the Indus. At the same time, the Greeks, then uncivilized, with the inhabi- tants of the islands between Europe and Asia, were roving about, committing depredations upon their neighbors. Some of these law- less free-booters, coming to Phoenicia to sell cattle and horses and purchase a few Tyrian wares, beheld the beautiful daughter of king Agenor. Mischief was at once on foot, as it always is when lawful matrimony is restrained for lov