ftUstiK 
 
 AL 
 
 v:-!;;.«<k.-.;T>; 
 
 r±6«el wimm moore 
 
 KEPT DURING A TOUR TO THE 
 
 WEST INDIES AND SOUTH AMERICA, £w-*i4-,( 
 IN 1863-64. 
 
 tUM> 
 
 NOTES FROM THE DIARY OF HER HUSBAND; 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 HIS MEMOIR, 
 
 GEORGE TRUMAN, M.D. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA : 
 T. ELLWOOD ZELL, PUBLISHER, 
 
 Nos. 17 & 19 S. Sixth St. 
 
 1867.
 
 SHERMAN ft; CO., PRINTERS. 

 
 LIBRARY 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIF( 
 SANTA BARBARA 
 
 Mt 
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAOE 
 
 The Voyage — Nassau, 9 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Havana — Slaves and Slave-ships — Churches — Vehicles, . 21 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Matanzas — Cave of Bellamar, 41 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Negro Amusements — Trip to Manito — Private Hospi- 
 tality, 52 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Voyage to St. Thomas — Slavery — Corals, ... 59 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Religious Meetings — Santa Cruz — Insurrections in the 
 
 Islands, 82
 
 VI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Frederickstadt — St. Croix — Vice and Immorality, . . 103 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Beauty of the Roads — Coolies — Bassin, or Christiau- 
 
 stadt — Visit to the Governor, 115 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Schools — Sugar-Grinding — Drives — Visiting Plantations 
 — Mount Washington — Moui t Victory — Harbor — 
 Streets — Markets — Birds — Game, .... 126 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Departure — St. Thomas — Trip to Barbadoes, . . . 145 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Barbadoes — St. Vincent — Landing at Demerara — Drives 
 
 — Departure, . . . . . . . .158 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Return to Barbadoes — Description of the Country — Kind- 
 ness and Hospitality — Friends' Burying-grounds — 
 Religious Meetings, ....... 174 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 St. Vincent — Grenada — Trinidad — Coolies, . , . 192
 
 CONTENTS. vii 
 
 CHAPTEK XIV. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Barbadoes — St. Vincent — Burial at Sea — Martinique — 
 Dominica — Guadeloupe — Antigua — St. Kitt's — Re- 
 turn to St. Thomas, 204 
 
 CHAPTEK XV. 
 
 Farewell-rThe Return Home, 220 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Conclusion, 228 
 
 Memoir op John Wilson Moore, M.D., . . . 253
 
 JOURNAL 
 
 RACHEL WILSON MOORE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Voyage — Nassau. 
 
 Having been absent during the summer of 
 1863 for the purpose of improving impaired 
 health of myself, when, on returning from the 
 Catskill Mountains, instead of being benefited, 
 fever, cough, and lassitude took hold of the 
 system to that extent that we believed nothing 
 short of going to a warmer climate, before the 
 commencement of winter, would prove availing. 
 
 After making all necessary arrangements for 
 the voyage, we took passage from the port of New 
 York the fourth of twelfth mo., 1863, on board the 
 
 2
 
 10 JOURNAL. 
 
 Corsica, Captain Lemesurier commander, at ten 
 o'clock, on second day. Many of our friends 
 accompanied us to the ship, remaining with us 
 several hours, under feelings of great solemnity, 
 anticipating sad forebodings as to my ever re- 
 turning to my native land. We parted from each 
 other prayerfully, desiring we might be per- 
 mitted to meet again. The weather was now 
 extremely cold, and, having no fire on board the 
 ship, save in the furnace under the boilers, we 
 endured much suffering from the cold; and, as I 
 was ill, and very weak, shivering continued for 
 many hours, notwithstanding the steward made 
 applications of hot water by placing bottles and 
 pitchers around me. My dear husband was under 
 great concern and fear, lest we should not reach 
 the island of Cuba without my enduring a severe 
 illness, striving every way in his power to warm 
 me, and alleviate my cough, which was now ex- 
 treme. For myself, I thought it very doubtful 
 whether I ever reached Havana ; but we strove 
 to put our confidence and trust in that God, who 
 suffers " not a sparrow to fall to the ground with- 
 out His providence." 
 
 "While thus revolving in our minds the many 
 sad events that were transpiring in our native
 
 REBELS ON BOARD. 11 
 
 land, that we were leaving, filling our hearts with 
 sorrow, we heard a great noise in a state-room 
 opposite our door, amounting to a scuffle. We 
 opened the door, and discovered several men in 
 the state-room, with one or two police officers 
 with them, denouncing them as spies and rebels; 
 at the same time demanding papers which they 
 had in their possession, relative to the affairs of 
 our Government, which the men denied. Their 
 persons and trunks were searched, but finding 
 none, they were ordered to take off their boots, 
 which one of them offered to do, provided one of 
 the officers would promise to put them on, which 
 the officers knew would be no easy task, and 
 would not make the promise. One of those 
 rebels then said to an officer, " Come, go with 
 me; why should not you and I be friends?" 
 when they all voluntarily went to the bar, and 
 there drank themselves good friends. The officers 
 left the ship, and the rebels returned to make 
 themselves merry over their success, relating to 
 a large number in the cabin, in our hearing, how 
 they had wheedled the officers out of their plan, 
 from taking them from the ship, or getting any 
 of their papers, through the influence of liquor, 
 as well as politeness ; one of them saying, " There
 
 12 JOURNAL. 
 
 is more contained in the version of the Irishman, 
 in getting on with a bad job, than one would 
 suppose, 'It is not so much in good looks as in 
 winning ways,' " saying, " My winning ways have 
 saved us to-day." 
 
 The same evening, leaving our moorings oppo- 
 site Jersey City, we set sail on our voyage, passing 
 through the Narrows, where we beheld the great 
 amount of shipping, which is to be seen at all 
 times in the Bay of New York. • At the hour of 
 ten at night, we endeavored to compose ourselves 
 to sleep, after solemnly commending our lives 
 and our all to Him who rules the winds and the 
 waves, and slept tolerably well. I still continued 
 very sick with fever, cough, and oppression. 
 
 My dear husband went on deck in the morning, 
 but finding it very cold, could not remain long. 
 We now began to feel somewhat sea-sick, which 
 continued most of the voyage. 
 
 Our ship's company was composed of a very 
 great mixture of blockade-runners, secessionists, 
 and but very few loyal men and woman. The 
 only exceptions w T e found were George Gardner 
 and wife, of Boston. There was amongst them 
 a T. W. Whitney, of Matanzas, whose offers of 
 kindness bespoke the gentleman, but whose sym-
 
 PASSENGERS. 13 
 
 pathies were evidently enlisted with the South. 
 There were many women on hoard with chil- 
 dren, from England and the Southern States, 
 who were going to rejoin their husbands at the 
 island of Nassau, as well as many of them at 
 Cuba; saying they had not seen their husbands 
 since the commencement of the war, but that 
 they were entirely satisfied to have been so long 
 absent from them, they never having been in 
 such lucrative business before. I innocently in- 
 quired what that business could be, when they 
 would answer, "Blockade-running; it is the best 
 of all business," and seemed highly delighted. 
 
 In the great variety we had on board, there 
 was a young German girl, by the name of Jo- 
 sephine , whom, if one could judge by her 
 
 looks, might be about twenty-five, but she may 
 have been somewhat older. She was travelling 
 alone, highly educated, said she understood ten 
 different languages, and appeared to be a profi- 
 cient in each, of which she gave an example. 
 She was indeed a prodigy, a philosopher, as well 
 as an exception to womankind. As we were 
 much alone together, and I admired her for her 
 learning, as well as for her agreeable manners, I 
 desired her to give me a short account of her
 
 14 J U 11 N A L. 
 
 history. She appeared to have been bred in high 
 life. She told me her father resided in one of the 
 large cities in Germany ; that she had no mother ; 
 her father was advanced in years, and she, if I 
 rightly remember, was the only daughter. She 
 had one brother living in .New York city. I 
 asked the question, how she could leave her 
 father, and native land, and all other dear friends 
 and early associations, and come to a land of 
 strangers, rather than remain with her aged pa- 
 rent, to soothe and comfort him in his declining 
 years ? Her answer was, " That is best known 
 to myself." I took it for granted that a dis- 
 appointment, or some love affair, the same cause 
 that has taken many a young girl to a convent, 
 brought her over sea and land, to seek a foreign 
 home, in almost entire isolation, — telling me she 
 came on from Germany to New York, I think, 
 about three years previous to the time of our 
 meeting. On her arrival, she went immediately 
 to the house of her brother, where she had not 
 been long before she took up a newspaper con- 
 taining many advertisements of farms for sale. 
 She saw one that struck her forcibly, as the spot 
 for her, above all others, in Potter County, Pa., 
 the extreme northern part of the State, in the
 
 PASSENGERS. 15 
 
 midst of a primeval forest, several miles distant 
 from any habitation, which she afterward pur- 
 chased. After seeing the advertisement, she in- 
 quired of her brother what train of cars she should 
 take to proceed thitherward, and the following 
 day took all she possessed and pressed onward. 
 She found the agent, without any difficulty, on the 
 spot, and purchased the farm at once, containing 
 one hundred acres, and in a short time after- 
 ward, made another purchase adjoining, on 
 which was a tenant-house and some cleared land. 
 She got some one to assist her in procuring per- 
 sons to work on the farm, while she took the 
 entire management of the whole. She found no 
 difficulty in procuring a friend, companion, and 
 domestic, from a farm-house, several miles dis- 
 tant, — herself and the young woman performing 
 all the duties of the house, being its only inmates. 
 She told me she was educating her in the best 
 manner, and that she already knew several differ- 
 ent languages. That, as they lived in so much 
 isolation, they had plenty of time for all the 
 duties they had to perform, having no company. 
 I asked her if they did not feel timid. Her an- 
 swer was, "No, that she did not want to injure 
 any one, and she was sure they did not wish to
 
 16 JOURNAL. 
 
 injure her." They spent much of their time 
 riding on horseback; that they sometimes met 
 men riding out, but avoided them as wolves of 
 the forest. She said she still continued to live 
 there, with much pleasure, and never expected 
 to leave it. I queried with her why she was 
 leaving it to go to Havana to spend the winter, if 
 isolation was so delightful ? She replied, she had 
 very intimate friends on the island of Cuba, who 
 had sent for her to come and spend the winter 
 with them ; that she had brought her companion 
 with her, and left her at her brother's, in New 
 York, until she should return. I desired her to 
 give me her address; she requested mine in re- 
 turn, while each extended a kind invitation to 
 interchange visits. We saw her leave the ship 
 with one of her friends, on her arrival at Havana. 
 I presume if the history of many who have 
 gone to convents, or other places of great isola- 
 tion, was unfolded, the cause would not prove 
 unlike that which led this German heroine to 
 sacrifice all she held near and dear on earth, to 
 fly from scenes of disappointment and sorrow, 
 and, not unfrequently, of slander, that goes forth 
 like a whirlwind, causing many an innocent 
 maiden to pine her life away in obscurity, and in
 
 NASSAU. 17 
 
 her timidity to seek for peace alone in some quiet 
 vale, apart from the world; while he who has 
 deceived her is walking erect, with infamy in his 
 soul, and the "brand of Cain upon his forehead." 
 In the broad sunlight he wends his way to the 
 homes of others, innocents like her. When will 
 society become so far reformed as to look on 
 both sexes impartially; when public opinion 
 shall tend to the great principle of justice and 
 right, rather than that of fashion or of caste ? 
 
 I give my views on this subject, as I have 
 mingled much with all classes of society for 
 many long years, and have found in ".life among 
 the lowly " less immorality, more virtue and 
 truth, than I have among the rich and great. 
 After stating that all the warm pulsations of my 
 soul beat in unison and deep sympathy with these 
 injured ones, the sands of time will have passed 
 from my glass, before I shall cease to lay a soft 
 hand gently on the heads of this class, which I 
 could only desire may rest as dew upon the 
 flowers. 
 
 On fourth day afternoon we began to feel a 
 milder climate, and to experience its refreshing 
 influence, especially myself, who up to this time 
 had been confined mostly to my state-room. On
 
 18 JOURNAL. 
 
 fifth day, the seventh of the month, we expe- 
 rienced a spring-like atmosphere. In the after- 
 noon a steamer was discovered making after us, 
 and as she gained upon us, fired a blank car- 
 tridge, warning us to come to and wait her coming 
 up, which Captain Lemesurier did, much to his 
 mortification and chagrin, not knowing but it 
 might be a pirate ship, as many infested the seas 
 at that time. The steamer proved to be a rebel 
 war vessel, who, on finding ours to be her Bri- 
 tannic Majesty's mail steamer Corsica, bound for 
 Havana, passed on, leaving us to follow, calling 
 upon us, as she passed, for newspapers, to which 
 we replied in the negative. She detained us 
 about one hour. On sixth day morning we were 
 in quite a warm latitude, the thermometer being 
 seventy-six to eighty. 
 
 We now saw the island of Nassau in the dis- 
 tance, and about nine o'clock in the morning 
 attempted to enter the harbor, but found it too 
 rough, surrounded with rocks, so that the water 
 was thrown up a great distance. The waves beat 
 with violence against the rocks, giving it a terrific 
 appearance. The captain concluded to go to the 
 opposite side, it being to the windward, where we 
 found a better anchorage. We laid there during
 
 NASSAU. 19 
 
 the night, and discharged the cargo and most of 
 the passengers designed for that place. They 
 were placed on board a lighter at night, which 
 looked very fearful to us left behind. The sea 
 being very tempestuous, many thought they 
 would not reach the shore. The storm raged 
 considerably through the night, driving a ship on 
 shore, where we saw her in the morning, high 
 and dry, being a total wreck. I felt like condol- 
 ing with those on the wreck, as well as with 
 the owners of the wrecked steamer, but was told 
 I might give myself no concern on that head, as 
 it was often done intentionally, to get the insur- 
 ance on vessel and cargo, but if so, the passengers 
 had to suffer. It required four or five schooners 
 and a small steamer to take away the freight and 
 passengers that landed here. 
 
 On the ninth of the month we continued our 
 course round the island, and came in front of the 
 principal town, and sent the remainder of the 
 passengers in lighters on shore. It was rather a 
 fearful operation getting the women and the aged 
 off the steamer. They were let down in an arm- 
 chair, by means of a tackle ; numbering in all 
 ninety souls, as pure secessionists as ever rebelled 
 against any government. This island, Providence,
 
 20 JOURNAL. 
 
 as it is called, is a small, barren, rocky island, 
 grown over with underbrush, without culture of 
 any kind, and depending on the States for every 
 article of subsistence. It is now the depot for 
 blockade-runners and Southern sympathizers, and 
 a brisk trade is carried on between this island 
 and the South. The town of Nassau is a small 
 place, having one large hotel, a few government 
 buildings, and private residences. A mulatto 
 man, our informant, gave us reliable information 
 concerning the condition of the island previous 
 to the war ; that it was of little account until the 
 brisk trade commenced with the South, of block- 
 ade-running. We concluded it could not be a 
 desirable place for invalids, or residence for any, 
 except such as are engaged in contraband trade. 
 We left our anchorage about two o'clock p.m., 
 taking on board numbers of passengers from 
 Nassau; and we steamed our way for Havana.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Havana — Slaves and Slave-Ships — Churches — 
 Vehicles. 
 
 We reached Havana on the morning of the 
 fourteenth of twelfth mo., 1863, at eight o'clock, 
 a. m. Among the passengers were an English 
 gentleman and wife, with whom we became in- 
 timately acquainted, we both going to the same 
 hotel in Havana, where we spent a mouth. The 
 steamer came to anchor in the harbor, about one 
 mile from the landing, to which we were conveyed 
 in small boats, at one dollar apiece. On coming 
 to anchor we were boarded by the custom-house 
 officers, and runners from the different hotels, 
 offering us their accommodations, and taking 
 charge of our baggage. The harbor is a fine one, 
 of basin shape, the entrance to which is through 
 narrows, on the point of which stands Moro 
 Castle on a high bluff. It is an extensive and 
 formidable structure, and would seem to defy 
 the assault of an enemy; but modern warfare 
 
 3
 
 22 JOURNAL. 
 
 sets at nought every superstructure of ancient 
 defence. 
 
 After completing custom-house duties, we 
 walked up to Alany's Hotel, a few blocks off', and 
 which stands in Plaza de Francisco, exposed to 
 the view of the harbor. It constitutes a block, 
 so built as to have a court-yard in the centre, 
 accessible through a large doorway, and stone 
 steps to the second story, where you land on a 
 wide piazza. The lower story is occupied as 
 stores, or eating and drinking saloons. The 
 house has been kept for eighteen years by a lady 
 from Philadelphia — an elegant woman, of worth 
 and acquirements. Her hotel is said to be the 
 best kept of any in Havana, and is resorted to 
 by the first class boarders. , Our friends, George 
 Gardner and wife, from Boston, who had been 
 our shipmates from New York, together with the 
 English gentleman and wife, from Canada, were 
 our companions here, as well as George Bernado 
 and wife, from Philadelphia, making it highly 
 agreeable, while our stay was prolonged one 
 month, waiting for a steamer to take us to St. 
 Thomas. 
 
 The bay or harbor is surrounded by hills, and 
 is a complete basin, on one side of which stands
 
 HAVANA. 23 
 
 the city, forming the segment of a circle. The 
 shipping is arranged along the wharves, bow 
 foremost, so as to occupy the smallest possible 
 space, in front of which is erected a long shed, 
 extending from one end of the town to the other, 
 for the accommodation of loading and unloading 
 vessels, and there merchants meet in the morn- 
 ing to transact business. The hours for business 
 are from six to nine o'clock, after which breakfast 
 and custom-house operations. On these wharves 
 may be seen large numbers of slaves, continually 
 loading and unloading vessels. The city looks 
 quite pretty from the harbor ; but on entering it 
 the stranger is struck with its jail-like appear- 
 ance, every house of much account being guarded 
 with iron-grated doors and windows; also, large 
 massive iron doors, which open into court-yards, 
 that lead to dwellings and stores. The lower 
 stories are chiefly occupied as storehouses or 
 places of business of some kind. The streets are 
 narrow, with foot-pavements from two to three 
 feet wide, mostly of round stone. Some of the 
 streets are paved with square blocks of granite, 
 and mostly kept clean, so that you walk in the 
 middle of the street as common as sidewalks. 
 The lower part of the city is in a wretched con-
 
 24 JOURNAL. 
 
 dition, scarcely fit for decent people to pass 
 through, being tilled with groggeries, gambling 
 places, and filth ; for my own part, I felt afraid 
 to pass through any of those miserable streets, 
 which was proved to a demonstration by one of 
 our boarders. 
 
 There are a few places in the city somewhat 
 attractive. The Governor's Plaza is an open 
 space, ornamented with trees and shrubbery, that 
 affords a pleasant retreat, where, every evening 
 at eight o'clock, the citizens are entertained with 
 a band of music. Outside of the city proper the 
 houses are more expensive, streets wider, and 
 open areas more numerous. There the elite of 
 the city are seen driving every evening, from five 
 o'clock, along the Pasio del Ysabel, Casse del 
 Plado, Campa del Marie, up the Tacon. These 
 siaras are where the aristocracy of the city re- 
 side, and where is found grandeur and squalid 
 poverty intermingled to the greatest extent we 
 ever beheld. Here is seen an elegant mansion, 
 according to their architecture, with its fine gar- 
 den and beautiful grounds, and alongside a mis- 
 erable shanty, with groggeries, and squalid 
 poverty, in the greatest filth and degradation ; 
 most of the latter native Cubans, who with the
 
 SLAVERY. 25 
 
 Spaniards are always at variance. The Cubans 
 are allowed none of the privileges or rights 
 claimed exclusively by the Spaniards. All the 
 fine buildings here, as well as in the city proper, 
 are barricaded with iron bars, as we concluded, 
 to guard against insurrections, as I was satisfied 
 would eventually come upon the people of that 
 island, if they continued to enslave and oppress 
 both colored and whites. 
 
 Having travelled through all the Southern 
 States when slavery existed, we never saw it in 
 so horrible a form as on the island of Cuba. 
 We did not visit the calaboose, at Havana. 
 We daily saw passing our boarding-house a large 
 number of slaves, heavily loaded with irons, and 
 chained together, going into different parts of 
 the city, to labor on public works ; such as re- 
 pairing pavements, cleaning out sewers, or any- 
 thing else of the most menial character. As all 
 are chained together, one could make no move 
 unless all moved, which must have given them 
 in their irons the most excruciating pain. We 
 saw them down in deep sewers, amid mud and 
 filth, not only performing labor, daily, in those 
 wretched ditches, but taking their meals (if they 
 might be so called), surrounded with this stench. 
 
 3*
 
 26 JOURNAL. 
 
 My heart bled for them, and I queried with some 
 of the inhabitants, to know what their crime had 
 been, that brought them to this condition. They 
 answered very indifferently , that they did not 
 know, perhaps for some misdemeanor. I replied, 
 " Do you suppose a people can prosper, while 
 oppressing their fellow creatures to the extent 
 they are here ?" Their only answer was, " You 
 must be very careful what you say, as no one 
 dares speak on the subject." But I was made to 
 cry out in the agony of my spirit, " How long, 
 oh Lord, holy and true, wilt thou suffer this mys- 
 tery of iniquity to be going on in the land, under 
 the high profession of serving Thee ?" As the 
 priests were continually parading the streets in 
 their long robes, in going to mass, and other re- 
 ligious exercises, and were they the ministers ot 
 Christ, we believed, would do all in their power 
 to turn the captivity of this deeply oppressed 
 people, which would be as easy for them as that 
 of the water-courses, as their power and influence 
 is unlimited. 
 
 As we were riding out one evening, on the 
 Pasio, in the finest part of the city, in company 
 with our friends, G. Bernado and wife, of Phila- 
 delphia, we passed a gang of slaves, apparently
 
 SLAVE-SHIPS. 27 
 
 in great wretchedness, with a driver behind them 
 with an uplifted whip. They were probably be- 
 ing driven out to a plantation. "We saw them 
 every day while on the island, always under great 
 oppression, and were informed by a gentleman 
 from one of our Eastern States, that he had re- 
 cently returned from a visit to a slave-ship, which 
 had just come in with eleven hundred slaves on 
 board, valued at eleven hundred thousand dollars. 
 He was invited by a friend of his, residing in 
 Havana, to go with him to witness the enormity 
 of the slave-trade. 
 
 I will give the relation, as nearly as I can, in his 
 own words. " They went," he says, " in the dark- 
 ness of the night, to a certain point on the island, 
 where slave-ships generally unload their cargoes" 
 — it being an isolated spot. "We there saw a 
 large number of planters on the shore waiting for 
 the arrival of the anticipated slave-ship. We wait- 
 ed there for several hours, in the darkness of the 
 night, until at last she made her appearance. 
 On reaching her moorings, the cargo was hurried 
 out of the ship, with all the rapidity possible, and 
 placed upon the shore, many of them, poor mis- 
 erable creatures, not being able to stand. I 
 had heard of the horrors of the slave-trade, but
 
 28 JOURNAL. 
 
 the sight of these poor creatures, torn from their 
 native land, in their filth and degradation, beg- 
 gars all description — few of them having the 
 appearance of human beings. After the ship 
 was cleared of its inmates, the gentleman who 
 had invited me to go with him, insisted on my 
 going on board the ship, which I did, and never 
 can I forget the horrid spectacle that met my 
 vision. The ship, from stem to stern, was a mass 
 of filth and noxious vapor ; it looked as if all the 
 excrements accumulated on the passage, were 
 there deposited, during a voyage of ninety days. 
 I queried to know how it was possible, eleven 
 hundred could be stowed into that ship? His 
 answer was, 'I will show you,' pointing to that 
 part between decks, where seats were formed 
 like stairs, and in every part where they could be 
 placed, in the same way. I said, ' They cannot 
 all be seated here,' when he replied, ' They 
 could not, except as they are made to fit each 
 between the limbs of the other, having just room 
 to crawl from their seats to a certain spot, nigh 
 at hand, too horrible to reflect upon.' ISTever 
 could I have contemplated so revolting a sight. 
 
 " "We hastened away from the ship as rapidly 
 as possible, fearing to remain many minutes in so
 
 SLAVE-SHIPS. 29 
 
 noisome a place. We returned to the shore, and 
 there found an auction going on. The many 
 planters, who had been waiting for the arrival of 
 the ship, were now making purchases of such as 
 suited them best. 
 
 " In the course of an hour or two, all were 
 gone, not a vestige being left of the blackened 
 crime and shameful exhibition we had been wit- 
 nesses to. The ship was then towed out into the 
 sea and scuttled ; which is the custom with the 
 owners of slave-ships after discharging their car- 
 goes, so that no trace shall be seen that such a 
 ship has brought a cargo of slaves to the island. 
 I queried with a gentleman how it could be al- 
 lowed, as it was contrary to the laws of Spain, 
 as well as all other civilized countries. He said 
 the people there got along easily with that; as 
 money will do anything. So many doubloons 
 handed the Captain-General, and all will be right ; 
 which has since been confirmed by a Cuban in 
 my own house." 
 
 Now, if this information be incorrect, the pres- 
 ent Governor has nothing to do but deny it ; 
 but we were informed the same thing, from 
 several other sources, in Havana. We give the 
 statements as our informants gave them to us.
 
 30 JOURNAL. 
 
 The Eastern gentleman also told us that not long 
 after this he was again invited by his friend to 
 visit another slave-ship, which contained seven 
 hundred slaves. The horrors of the scene, and 
 exhibition of cupidity and crime, both with slave- 
 dealers and planters, was much the same as the 
 first, the ship being scuttled as the former. 
 
 On retiring at night, after those horrible rela- 
 tions during the evening, sleep departed from 
 my eyes, and my spirits almost died within me. 
 Soon after the morning's dawn, I told my hus- 
 band we must go and see the American consul ; 
 having relinquished the proposal I had made to 
 him, to pay a visit to the Governor, my husband 
 feeling he was not willing to risk the conse- 
 quences that might arise from an interview on 
 this subject. 
 
 We arose, breakfasted, and paid him a visit. 
 I opened my mind to him on the subject, my 
 husband consenting. He gave us the most im- 
 perative counsel, not to breathe a word on the 
 subject to any one; saying, "You may get into 
 difficulties from which you may not be able to 
 extricate yourselves, as Catholicism reigns su- 
 preme on this island, and no Protestant is tole- 
 rated in any way;" stating a case of two young
 
 INTOLERANCE. 31 
 
 men who came from England, a few years since, 
 for the purpose of obtaining liberty to establish 
 a Protestant church, which they were totally de- 
 nied, and threatened, if they did not leave the 
 island ; which they were willing to do, after dis- 
 tributing a few Protestant tracts; for this' crime 
 they were arrested and thrown into prison, where 
 they remained a long time awaiting their trial ; 
 after which they were condemned to several 
 years' imprisonment; this, coming to the ears 
 of the English government, measures were im- 
 mediately taken with the Spanish government 
 for their release, which might otherwise have 
 terminated in a war between the two countries. 
 They were released, however, only by banish- 
 ment forever from the island on pain of death. 
 
 This interview with the American consul con- 
 firmed more fully the danger there was in saying 
 or doing anything that might give offence to this 
 hierarchy. 
 
 Previous to visiting the American consul, we 
 had requested of our landlady to hold a religious 
 meeting in her house, at the earnest solicitation 
 of many of the boarders, which she readily 
 granted, saying it would give her too great sat-
 
 32 JOURNAL. 
 
 isfaction, not having attended a religious meet- 
 ing for eighteen years. 
 
 After the notices had been put up in different 
 parts of the house, a Southern man came to my 
 husband, and informed him that the holding of 
 such a meeting might involve us in much diffi- 
 culty, being entirely contrary to law; which gave 
 us much concern, not so much on my own ac- 
 count as on that of my husband, who did not feel 
 prepared, as he said, to suffer martyrdom on that 
 island, or subject us to the persecuting spirit that 
 prevailed there. Our landlady thought it an un- 
 necessary alarm altogether, and insisted on the 
 meeting's being held; but we thought it most 
 prudent, as well as many others, to take down 
 the notices, to the disappointment of those who 
 came from without, as well as within the house. 
 Soon after, we were informed that one or more 
 officers were waiting below for us to commence 
 the meeting, when we were to have been taken 
 immediately to prison. And this was no sham 
 for intimidation, but a reality, under the in- 
 fluence of Catholic rule. We were afterwards 
 told by the American consul, that if five persons 
 should hold a Protestant prayer-meeting in one 
 of their chambers, and should it be found out by
 
 SLAVERY. 33 
 
 the authorities, it would subject them to incar- 
 ceration in a prison. 
 
 We were informed there was scarcely a day or 
 night in which murders and robberies are not 
 committed, but are seldom reported. One indi- 
 vidual, as near as I can now remember, who had 
 used some measures to assist a slave to leave the 
 island, was unmercifully garroted, and the body 
 left suspended, hanging in the air for some con- 
 siderable time, as an example for others; — not 
 forgetting to punish the great crime of restoring 
 a stolen man to his freedom, while murderers 
 were permitted to go at large. This case we did 
 not see ourselves, but a friend of ours from New 
 York, one of our own Society, gave us the in- 
 formation, being a fellow-boarder with us. 
 
 I might go on enumerating enormities prac- 
 tised on the oppressed ; but one feature more in 
 the horrid system must suffice. Another of our 
 fellow-passengers, and boarder at the same hotel, 
 from Chicago, rode out with his sick son, in the 
 interior, to visit the plantations. On his return, 
 he told us he had beheld the most horrid sight he 
 ever saw, — men, women, and children, in great 
 numbers, on sugar plantations, in the most abject 
 
 4
 
 34 JOURNAL. 
 
 and cruel condition of slavery. It was the sugar- 
 making season, and they were pressed or driven 
 to that extent, that it seemed as if they could 
 exist but a short time under such oppressive 
 labor. As he made no profession of being an 
 Abolitionist, they let him into some secrets, 
 which they otherwise would not — such as the 
 number of hours they were compelled to labor 
 out of the twenty-four. They told him that 
 eighteen hours were what they generally re- 
 quired of them; but when hard driven for their 
 sugars to be in readiness for customers, they 
 did require twenty, sometimes twenty-two hours' 
 labor of them. May we not ask ourselves, while 
 reading this narration, whether we could endure 
 such toil, and that, too, without any compensa- 
 tion — save a salt herring and a small quantity of 
 Indian meal per day, leaving out clothing, as 
 what is given them is not worthy of the name ? 
 Should not every human being set their faces 
 against such an infamous system, let it be where 
 it may? crying out against it as the sum total of 
 all villanies, while the people where it exists 
 seem as indifferent to it as if it were some ^reat 
 boon conferred upon them. I believed, when 
 there, the time was near at hand when a change
 
 SLAVERY. 35 
 
 must be wrought, as their measure of iniquity 
 seemed nearly full. 
 
 One more instance of barbarity must be re- 
 corded, on a poor girl, a child's nurse, at one of 
 the boarding-houses. The mother of the child 
 was not living. The father procured this young 
 nurse. In some way the infant received a slight 
 injury. When it was known to the landlady, 
 she told the girl the father should hear of it. 
 The girl begged her on her knees not to do it, 
 saying, "My master will whip me to death!" 
 But the cruel woman was inexorable; told her 
 she was in fault; that she would be as good as 
 her word. The poor frantic young girl, well 
 knowing the consequence, retired quickly to the 
 third story of the building, then jumped from one 
 of the windows to the street, falling on the stone 
 pavement. She was taken up and cared for, but 
 life was nearly extinct. We heard no more of 
 the case, as it was not thought of much account, 
 such enormities being of frequent occurrence. 
 It brought to mind the truthful lines of a cele- 
 brated author : 
 
 " Vice is a monster of such hideous mien, 
 As, to be hated, needs but to be seen ; 
 But seen too oft, familiar with its face, 
 We first endure, then pity, then embrace."
 
 36 JOURNAL. 
 
 So it has ever been with those who have not had 
 moral or religious principle to direct them. But 
 the barbarism connected with slavery seems too 
 vile and cruel for any possessed of humanity to 
 view it in this light. But so it is; and to me it is 
 a problem I have never been able to solve, how 
 well-disposed people could ever have held their 
 fellow-creatures in bondage, at any period of 
 time. 
 
 I will now speak about the most common 
 vehicles used on the island as pleasure carriages. 
 They are called vol&ntes, for one or two horses; 
 there are a few barouches, and some coaches. It 
 is curious to see how they harness and fix their 
 little horses to these vol&ntes; the driver always 
 rides on one of the horse's backs, at least ten feet 
 from the dasher of the carriage, and when two 
 horses are used, one is placed between the shafts 
 and the other on the off" side, which is ridden by 
 the driver; and what appears very singular to us, 
 most of these horses have their tails plaited, and 
 tied to one side of the saddle. The horses are 
 small, and their gait a sort of shuffling pace, 
 which they drive at the rate of six miles an hour. 
 
 The houses are built of stone and roughcast, 
 from one to three stories. The floors are of brick
 
 MARKETS. 37 
 
 or stone, all through the houses, making a fine 
 resort for scorpions, centipedes, roaches, darning- 
 needles, and all sorts of poisonous vermin, of 
 which there is a great abundance on the island. 
 Oxen and small horses are the beasts of burden, 
 as well as donkeys, travelling the streets continu- 
 ally, loaded with cane-tops, baskets of fruits and 
 vegetables, to such an extent that the legs of the 
 donkey are scarcely seen. Oranges and bananas 
 were in abundance, pineapples not so plenty. 
 It is not common for ladies to walk in the street, 
 neither is it considered safe ; but our republican 
 habits could not be circumscribed by such arbi- 
 trary rales; so on the sixteenth we took a walk 
 through the town to the market, where we saw a 
 miserable collection of meats, vegetables, and fish 
 of various kinds; the people looked at us with 
 astonishment, and made their remarks as we 
 passed along; but not understanding them, we 
 took no notice of them. 
 
 17th. We took a ride this evening, at the in- 
 vitation of George Bernado and wife, along the 
 Siara, and through the Tacon, and by the way 
 of Gordon House. It afforded us a fine oppor- 
 tunity to see the best part of the city. We had 
 a day or two before taken a volante, and rode 
 
 4*
 
 38 JOURNAL. 
 
 along the Tacon and back. The vehicle was very 
 uncomfortable for two people, and the driver not 
 understanding our language, made it anything 
 but desirable to be driven about without know- 
 ing anything. 
 
 18th. The thermometer is 72° in the morning, 
 and 76° at noon, and it rained all day; we kept 
 close house, hearing sad relations of slavery and 
 its effects, and the cruelties that are practised 
 upon them. 
 
 19th. The Evening Star arrived from New 
 York, bound to New Orleans, in which George 
 Bernado and wife, and others, are going to that 
 city. The Corsica also sails to New York; by 
 her we sent letters to our friends. 
 
 Atmosphere cool; thermometer, 71° to 75°. 
 
 We have made a visit to the friends to whom 
 we brought letters, Burnham & Co., and others, 
 in Merchant Street. Burnham is an elderly gen- 
 tleman, reserved and dignified. He has politely 
 offered to forward all our letters sent to him. 
 F. Bussing, 37 Merchant Street, just retiring from 
 business, we found very agreeable. He sailed 
 with us to St. Thomas, with his family, on their 
 way to Germany. "With this gentleman we felt 
 easy and familiar, and conversed freely on all
 
 CATHEDRAL. 39 
 
 subjects. The Evening Star brought us no letters 
 from home. 
 
 20th. First day, morning. Felt the importance 
 of our position ; and the prayerful aspiration of 
 the soul to the throne of grace is for light and 
 strength to do the will of Him whom we desire 
 to serve. Yet feeling poor, stripped, and naked, 
 without ability to think a good thought, unless 
 thou, Lord, inspire us. 
 
 We visited the Cathedral, in company with 
 some of the boarders, at the time of Mass, and sat 
 quietly with them during their devotions, which 
 consisted mostly in falling down on their knees, 
 on the stone floor, before images, which were 
 erected in all parts, reminding us of some of the 
 sayings of Paul, relative to the inscription on the 
 altar of the Athenians, — " To the unknown God." 
 After they had dispersed, we visited different 
 parts of the enormous edifice, as well as the tomb 
 of Columbus, situated in one end of the building. 
 It is said his remains are here deposited. The 
 inscription being in Spanish, we were unable to 
 decipher it. His memory is still sacred to the 
 Spaniards. "We then took cars, and rode seve- 
 ral miles out on the Siara, and back to Campo
 
 40 JOURNAL. 
 
 cle Marti; from thence walked through the city 
 to our hotel. 
 
 There is some regard paid by many to the day 
 of the week. There is no law regulating the 
 enforcement of the observance of the Sabbath; 
 hence we see trade and business going on as 
 usual, and the public conveyances running as on 
 other days. Card-playing, drinking, &c, consti- 
 tute the recreation. 
 
 21st. Morning cool ; thermometer 68° ; cloudy. 
 
 22d. Thermometer 68° ; atmosphere warmer. 
 The Eagle, from New York, has arrived, bring- 
 ing the widow and family of the late Nicholas 
 Biddle, of Philadelphia. They came to our hotel, 
 but she being out of health did not remain long; 
 we not ascertaining which way they turned their 
 course.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Matanzas — Cave of Bellamar. 
 
 23d. Rose at four o'clock in the morning, and, 
 in company with George Gardner and wife, took 
 cars for Matanzas, a distance of sixty miles, to 
 visit the Cave of Bellamar, where we arrived at 
 nine o'clock, and took breakfast at Hubhel's 
 Hotel, who (Hubbel) is a Philadelphian, and 
 seemed gratified at seeing some of his towns- 
 men ; taking great pains to furnish our plates 
 with the choicest pieces. 
 
 Here we met Captain Barnes and T. W. Whit- 
 ney, the latter our old shipmate from New York 
 to Havana, and the former an intimate friend of 
 my dear husband's for many years, he having 
 been their family physician. In company with 
 the Gardners, each taking a voldnte, and the other 
 above-named friends in another, with drivers on 
 the horses making a great noise, we set forward. 
 The road, for some distance towards the cave, is 
 very beautiful, being on the sea-side, after which
 
 42 JOURNAL. 
 
 we begin to ascend a mountain of rocks, over 
 which the horses are actually forced up by the 
 violence of the drivers. On either side of the 
 road, as we passed, tall trees of cocoanuts and 
 bananas might be seen, the fruits hanging in 
 great profusion ; a sight extremely beautiful and 
 picturesque. I had seen them in pictures, when 
 a child, but little thought I should ever stand on 
 the soil where they grow, and where I might 
 have had the liberty of plucking them from the 
 boughs. 
 
 I felt very doubtful, as well as my husband, 
 whether we should reach the summit in safety, 
 the voldntes often appearing as if they would 
 fall backward. At last we gained the top, and, 
 after driving one mile over a terribly rough road, 
 came to the Cave de Bellamar.* This beautiful 
 cave is owned by Manuel Santos Parga. It was 
 discovered on the 17th of April, 1861, while 
 breaking limestone in the neighborhood. One 
 of his workmen felt his lever sinking through a 
 hole, which proved to be a deep well. Parga's 
 curiosity was aroused ; he descended, and to his 
 amazement he saw a splendid cavern. He set 
 immediately to work, and so well did he succeed 
 
 * From Guia de la Cueva de Bellamar.
 
 CAVE OF BELLAMAR. 43 
 
 in his new discovery that, before one year had 
 elapsed, he gave to the admiring public the won- 
 ders of his subterranean domain. The cave has 
 been called Bellamar, as there is a summer re- 
 treat near by of that name. The entrance to the 
 cave is one mile distant from the junction of the 
 two roads and two hundred yards from the Parga 
 House, in which the visitors' register is found, as 
 well as a large assortment of fine specimens of 
 stalactites and stalagmites for sale. The guides 
 arc well provided with lamps and tapers. In the 
 principal apartments are fixed lights, or chande- 
 liers, burning with great brilliancy. Good paths 
 have been opened, bridges thrown over, and steps 
 placed wherever the passage recpuired it. The 
 first hall, called the Gothic Temple, is of unique 
 and severe beauty, and brings to mind the solemn 
 naves of ancient cathedrals. As the visitors go 
 down this hall, nine hundred feet long by two 
 hundred and forty wide, there are several large 
 pillars, which reach the ceiling of the lofty vault, 
 the largest of which is sixty feet high, varying in 
 its width from twenty-one to nine feet, and bears 
 the name of the Mantle of Columbus. Stately 
 are its capacious folds, and at the foot many 
 figures may be seen resembling statuary, like
 
 44 JOURNAL. 
 
 men lying on the ground, prostrate in deep ado- 
 ration ; these are called the Twelve Apostles. 
 
 The farther we descended, the heat became 
 more oppressive, although we had doffed above 
 all the clothing we could spare, so that our friend 
 George Gardner proposed returning, thinking 
 he would not be able to breathe long there. My 
 dear husband urged him onward, and we all 
 found we soon became accustomed to the atmos- 
 phere. Opposite to the Mantle of Columbus, in 
 the other end of the Gothic Temple, stands a 
 niche, called the Altar, decorated with stones, 
 not unlike images, shaped by an awkward hand. 
 At the foot of the Altar, on a prominent stone, 
 the guardian of the Cave, a rude statue, raises its 
 solemn head, turned towards the entrance. There 
 are two openings in the Gothic Temple, through 
 which the hall is left, to enter the subterranean 
 passages ; both are in front of the traveller as he 
 descends. Following the itinerary of the guides, 
 the left one is chosen, and he finds himself in the 
 Gallery of the Fountain, two thousand four 
 hundred feet long. The crystallizations of the 
 Gothic Temple are white, somewhat tinged with 
 brown. As soon as we enter the Gallery of the 
 Fountain, we see on either side the most delicate
 
 CAVE OF BELLAMAE. 45 
 
 work, of a shining white, representing the most 
 beautiful scalloped embroidery. Just in the cen- 
 tre of the Gallery the spring is seen which gives 
 it the name of the Fountain ; the water fills a 
 basin, white as marble, and is pure and agreeable 
 to the palate. There we all slaked our thirst, 
 and some of us, I think, bathed our faces it. 
 Close by the fountain the passage is covered by 
 the most beautiful stalactites, forming the closet 
 of the " Indian Maiden." After this, the traveller 
 is shown a fine arch, called the " Devil's Gorge," 
 bound on one side by a large stalactite called the 
 " Organ," which very much resembles that musi- 
 cal instrument. A few yards beyond the " Gorge," 
 the stalactites and stalagmites mingle together in 
 such a manner that they form a mass of trans- 
 parent alabaster. Some of these are of the most 
 fantastic shapes, clear as crystal. Lights are 
 placed behind them to show them off. Among 
 them, the Sepulchre is found. But the most re- 
 markable is the Embroidered Petticoat; this is, 
 indeed, one of the jewels of the Bellamar Cave. 
 It is a most beautiful, bell-shaped, hollow stalac- 
 tite, as smooth as marble, several feet in height. 
 Near the bottom, a symmetrical edge, six inches 
 wide, made up of large crystals, adds much to its 
 
 5
 
 46 - JOURNAL. 
 
 beauty. The " Sofa " forms also an interesting 
 group of these stalactites. 
 
 As we wandered through the Cave, we came to 
 the end of the Gallery of the Fountain, but only 
 to see new and greater wonders, each one calling 
 out " Look here !" while in a moment we heard 
 the sound, " See there! how grand, how magnifi- 
 cent !" The Hall of the Benediction, so called by 
 one of the reverend bishops, who pronounced it 
 blessed, in a fit of enthusiasm, being a chamber 
 of surpassing beauty. It is forty-two feet long, 
 twenty-four wide, and thirty-six high. The floor, 
 the walls, the vault, are of dazzling white, form- 
 ing an aerial vista of stalactites, covered with crys- 
 tallizations; these hang from the vaults, which are 
 ornamented with alabaster curtains. One of the 
 pendant stalactites has the name of Don Hosmo's 
 Lamp. A gentleman wished to purchase it for a 
 large sum, but the owner said, " ISTo ; let the vis- 
 itors enjoy the grand sight." One of the most 
 striking objects in the Hall of the Benediction is 
 the Mantle of the Virgin, — a massive stalactite, 
 which falls like a transparent cascade, with a 
 splendid border, the surface being slightly undu- 
 lated, while the square facets shine like precious 
 stones. Under the Mantle of the Virgin is a pure
 
 CAVE OF BELLAMAR. 47 
 
 stream of water, the source of which is still a 
 mystery; it is called the Mysterious Spring. An 
 attempt has been made to discover a passage to 
 it, but all efforts proved unavailing; while thus 
 exploring for a passage, the lights soon were ex- 
 tinguished, and the horror was greatly increased 
 on finding the matches were wet: lost in the 
 dark cavities, they thought of their last hour. 
 Happily, the wife of the proprietor became 
 alarmed at her husband's delay, and sent in her 
 servants to search for him. The lost ones were 
 found in the most pitiable condition ; they had 
 been for eighteen hours in much suffering, both 
 physical and mental. We next passed to the Gal- 
 lery of the Lake, remarkable for the appearance 
 of a snow-drift. Although at the end of this 
 gallery the Lake of Dahlias is found, it is not 
 accessible for visitors, as the flowers are under 
 water. In another part of the cave is Hatney 
 Gallery, named for a famous Indian chief, in 
 the early history of the island. 
 
 Next, a chamber, called " The Closet of the 
 Beautiful Matanceras," near which are many 
 others, too numerous to mention. The readers 
 must go and see for themselves, taking this book 
 with them for a guide. The depth of this cave
 
 48 JOURNAL. 
 
 is three hundred and sixty feet. The ground is 
 dry, but always of a hot temperature; fossil shells 
 cover some portions of the vaults; a large amount 
 of filagree work may be seen in many parts, so 
 fanciful, as fit models for the artist. Gothic 
 chapels, with many hues of the rose and violet, 
 with gold color, may be seen. 
 
 On coming again to the light of day, we felt 
 much chilliness; but wrapping ourselves in our 
 warm shawls, we turned our faces towards the 
 city of Matanzas, of which we had a fine view. 
 We purchased some beautiful specimens, as well 
 as had some presented. Our kind friend, Captain 
 Barnes, oifered to take mine to Philadelphia, on 
 board of his ship, to which we readily acceded. 
 "We had seen some parts of the country, which is 
 beautiful as it meets the eye of the beholder. The 
 highlands of Lacumbre, which conceal the val- 
 ley Yumuri ; the Abra, a deep ravine, where the 
 Yumuri River calmly flows ; Simpson Hill, with 
 villas scattered about its lap ; the city gracefully 
 laid out on wavy ground ; at a distance the pan 
 of Matanzas : all contribute to form a picture 
 worthy of the blue sky that pours on it the bright- 
 ness of its tropical tints. The excursion required 
 three hours.
 
 CAVE OF BELLAMAR. 49 
 
 M. Porga does not cease to work, in order to 
 bring out new beauties, that he may offer new gal- 
 leries and halls to the public, sufficient to gratify 
 the most devoted lover of the beautiful in nature. 
 He is said to be a man of great worth, which his 
 indomitable perseverance stamps on his charac- 
 ter; the traveller finds him always ready to show 
 his gorgeous treasures, but allows no one to de- 
 face their beauty. The entrance fee to the Bel- 
 laniar Cave is one dollar, guides and lights in- 
 cluded. A good saddle horse (or what the owner 
 calls good) may be hired for four dollars and 
 twenty-five cents; a voldnte, with a pair of 
 horses, for eight dollars and fifty cents ; we may 
 use them for three or four hours, but the excur- 
 sion is often accomplished in two and a half or 
 three hours. 
 
 We have visited many caves in the United 
 States and in Europe, but never saw one in all 
 our wanderings of so much interest, as well as 
 surpassing beauty, as this. I could have wan- 
 dered and explored its subterranean vaults for a 
 much longer time, without the least feeling of 
 weariness. The grandeur of the scene will, I 
 trust, ever remain fresh in mind, calling up vivid 
 remembrances of bygone days, when those we 
 
 5*
 
 50 JOURNAL. 
 
 held near and dear were grouped together with 
 us, a happy band! now sleeping in the silent halls 
 of death ! For a few brief moments let us pause 
 and reflect what sad changes have been meted 
 out to the writer of this work since that period ; 
 but this is a world of continued change, and the 
 last final change must come ere long. The prin- 
 cipal sources of activity are taken away, when 
 those we have so dearly loved are removed from 
 us, those who continually animated us to renewed 
 exertion, and sweetened all the toils of life; who 
 dispersed the clouds as they gathered by the sun- 
 shine in their souls ! but for the loss of such, 
 where can we find consolation, and refnge for the 
 troubled spirit, save in the bosom of religion? 
 This only can warm and fill the heart! which 
 trials and bereavements soften, and confirm more 
 fully, that this is not our abiding-place. I often 
 wonder that travellers are not more devout, more 
 contemplative on the works of creation and Prov- 
 idence ; the opportunity is so great for reflection 
 and the enlargement of the mind. In the words 
 of a Scripture writer, " They that go down to the 
 sea in ships, that sail on great waters, these see 
 the works of the Lord and His wonders in the 
 deeps."
 
 CAVEOFBELLAMAR. 51 
 
 We again took the cars for Havana, and ar- 
 rived in time for tea, at eight o'clock, — our fel- 
 low-boarders all desirous to know how we en- 
 joyed the trip, many of them saying, "We must 
 go too," seeming in ecstacies at our recital. 
 
 Our trip gave us a good opportunity for seeing 
 the country, which is mostly level, covered with 
 palm trees and orange groves. The soil is of a 
 bluish color, and looked poor. The plantations 
 seemed neglected. The palm is a tree of great 
 beauty and height, and seemed to look down 
 with indignation on the slave-worn soil below. 
 We saw but few sugar estates; but little grass; 
 indeed, the whole district we should call misera- 
 ble, so that we had to wonder from whence came 
 the oranges, pineapples, and bananas, that we saw 
 in the city.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Negro Amusements — Trip to Manito — Private 
 Hospitality. 
 
 25th. Christmas-day is holiday; great com- 
 motion through the night, celebrating the advent 
 of Christ. It is very warm; thermometer at 12 
 o'clock, 76° ; my dear husband not well to-day. 
 
 We had heard much said as to the amusements 
 of the slaves and free people of color, at Christ- 
 mas. "We did not know what it was ; but when 
 the time came, I saw them hasteniug with their 
 work, at the hotel, and offered to assist them ; 
 other ladies seeing me do so, also came forward, 
 and we soon despatched their work. In one hour 
 after we were called to see them, in the open 
 square in front of our house, painted in the most 
 fantastic manner, nearly destitute of clothing, 
 performing all kinds of pantomime antics, and 
 debasing themselves in various ways, while ut- 
 tering deafening screams at the top of their 
 voices ; the white people laughed and made merry
 
 NEGRO AMUSEMENTS. 53 
 
 over their degradation. It reminded us of " Sam- 
 son when he was brought out of prison to make 
 sport for the Philistines, finding afterwards he 
 had strength sufficient, he proved the death of 
 them all;" which will be no wonder, should it 
 be fulfilled to the letter. I told the spectators we 
 should set our faces against all such debasing ex- 
 hibitions, and impress upon them, the colored 
 people, their manhood; that they were account- 
 able beings, and possessed a higher nature than 
 merely low and animal passions; that I felt it 
 was wrong to remain to witness that, which to 
 some seemed a pleasure, as it might be an en- 
 couragement to them to go on. My dear husband 
 and self retired to our own room ; soon all the 
 boarders left the stand on the balcony, and the 
 poor ones forsook their folly. I felt I had done 
 right, and retired that night to rest in peace. 
 
 Near this time, Lady Madden, a New Yorker 
 like myself, had invited us to her house to break- 
 fast, at eleven o'clock. She sent a splendid 
 volante, with a driver, to take us thither. She 
 is a very polite, agreeable woman, as was Lady 
 Bell, and many others I have cause to remember. 
 I hope we may meet again. Mary Kelly, one of 
 our boarders, went with us. She too is from New
 
 54 JOUHNAL. 
 
 York. We rode out on the Siaro, where Lady 
 Madden lives, in one of the finest dwellings, bar- 
 ricaded, like all the rest, with iron gratings, her 
 husband remaining out on the plantation, many 
 miles distant, with a large number of slaves. 
 
 On our arrival she went with us to visit a 
 neighbor, who had attached to the grounds 
 around her mansion the most tasteful garden and 
 pleasure-grounds we had ever seen in any coun- 
 try, being laid out with much care; with fine 
 gravel walks in all directions ; with lakes, foun- 
 tains, and cascades, at almost every turn. She is 
 a woman of more than eighty years. The avenue 
 to the house is of great width, bordered with 
 palm, cocoanut, and cactus trees, with other va- 
 rieties, all in primal beauty. The cactus, being 
 in flower, gave the lawn a splendid appearance. 
 Every variety of shrub and flower, brought there 
 from foreign lands, embellished her grounds, and 
 she told us, through an interpreter, they had been 
 planted by her own hands; but we presumed 
 under her supervision, while some others per- 
 formed the labor. She is naturally a genius, 
 being a native Cuban, speaking no other lan- 
 guage ; she has taken up the art of drawing, 
 painting, working in wax, stuffing birds, polishing
 
 PRIVATE RESIDENCES. 55 
 
 the different varieties of wood growing on the 
 island, which quite astonished us. The paintings 
 were exquisite, as were all her other perform- 
 ances; and, if I rightly remember, a large portion 
 of her best had been executed in her old age; all 
 having been learned without a teacher. One of 
 the lakes on the premises was of sufficient size 
 to keep a boat-house on its bank, for pleasure ex- 
 cursions, much the same as in the environs of 
 Paris, as well as at the palace of Versailles. On 
 the borders of the largest lake were numerous 
 waterfowl, and two large aviaries, filled with al- 
 most every variety of birds, also a dove-house, 
 of the most curious architecture. Many aged 
 people of color were about the premises, who, we 
 presumed, had performed much of the labor. 
 She then conducted us into her house, where 
 was a chapel, crucifix, and everything for per- 
 forming Catholic devotions. She offered us sev- 
 eral beautiful specimens of different articles in 
 her house, as presents, we having spoken highly 
 of her genius, but we declined, and were told, on 
 our return, that it is merely done for etiquette, it 
 being the custom of the people of the island. We 
 received, however, some of her fine specimens of 
 flowers, and some beautiful cocoanuts, just taken
 
 56 JOURNAL. 
 
 from the tree, of which there were many on her 
 premises. We then returned to breakfast with 
 Lady Madden, where we met a few of her 
 friends, who had also been invited. After we 
 had breakfasted, which might have been be- 
 tween one and two o'clock, we returned to our 
 hotel, she sending us in her vol&nte. 
 
 The women on this island go without hats or 
 bonnets ; most of them have a thin veil over 
 their faces, thrown back on their shoulders. 
 The wealthy dress very richly. 
 
 We shall ever remember Lady Madden's kind- 
 ness to us strangers with feelings of gratitude. 
 
 On our return, our friends, George and Eliza 
 Gardner, we found were preparing to sail for 
 Cadiz, in a Spanish man-of-war, with one thou- 
 sand troops, destined for St. Domingo. 
 
 31st. Took the omnibus, at the Plaza, with 
 Alphonsio Peletee as guide, for the railroad 
 depot, to take us to Manito, twelve miles from 
 the city. The country through which we passed 
 presented a much better appearance of cultiva- 
 tion than that at Matanzas. It is more hilly, and 
 far more picturesque. On this road we saw the 
 pineapple growing, for the first time, which is 
 the green top of the fruit, planted in hills like
 
 MANITO. 57 
 
 cabbage, which shoot forth new leaves, and the 
 fruit grows in the centre, one apple only to each 
 plant. 
 
 Manito is on high ground, and much more 
 healthy than at Havana. It is here many citizens 
 flee to escape the epidemics often occurring in 
 the city. 
 
 First mo. 1st, 1864. — This day is kept as a holi- 
 day; all work suspended; stores mostly closed, but 
 inside the clerks are playing cards and drinking. 
 
 We have been here (Havana), over three weeks, 
 and the time now seems long. We strive to be 
 patient and watchful, but feel our leanness and 
 poverty. Oh that our Heavenly Father would 
 illuminate our hearts, and give us to see and 
 practise His divine will. In looking over our 
 lives we cannot say that we know anything as 
 we ought, save by His holy workings in our souls, 
 teaching us what is good, and warning us to 
 avoid the wrong. May His grace fill our hearts, 
 so that we may know no other will than that 
 which flows from His holy fountain of truth. 
 
 2d. Quite cool this morning; wind and rain. 
 We called on the English consul to-day, to engage 
 our passage to St. Thomas, but were told our pas- 
 sage could not be paid until the steamer arrived. 
 
 6
 
 58 JOURNAL. 
 
 The Morning Star readied here yesterday, by 
 which we received two Tribunes, of the twenty- 
 sixth ult., from "W. C: B., New York. 
 
 3d. Morning clear; thermometer 72°. My 
 cough still continues; my dear husband is untir- 
 ing in trying to alleviate it, but at times it seems 
 uncontrollable. 
 
 5th. Quite warm the last few days ; thermome- 
 ter ranging from 72° to 79°. The people here 
 are mostly secessionists, or their sympathizers. 
 We are now luxuriating on oranges, at ten cents 
 a dozen; bananas are also plenty, but pineapples 
 are scarce this season ; we buy them at sixteen 
 and twenty cents apiece. 
 
 6th. The Columbia left for New York. This 
 is the King's day, or negro holiday, as they term 
 it. They dress up fantastically, and go about the 
 streets singing and dancing to the sound of a 
 drum; but we turned from it with disgust, know- 
 ing it was only their degraded condition that 
 made them enjoy it. The Clyde arrived about 
 five o'clock, and my dear husband went on board 
 to engage our passage to St. Thomas. The fare 
 was one hundred and twenty dollars each; state- 
 rooms 12 and 13,
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Voyage to St. Thomas — Slavery — Corals. 
 
 7th. We called on Bumham & Co., and di- 
 rected all letters sent for us to be forwarded to 
 St. Thomas. Much regret was expressed by our 
 hostess, and many of the boarders, at our de- 
 parture, expecting we were to remain the winter. 
 We went on board at five o'clock p.m. We felf 
 under great discouragement, hearing of this 
 steamer not being seaworthy, and of her unclean- 
 ly condition; but, as passengers continued to 
 come on board, our confidence increased. We 
 were very glad to leave the intolerant and oppres- 
 sive spirit that prevailed on the island ; but dear 
 friends, whose acquaintance we had formed there, 
 we did feel a regret to part from. We slept well, 
 and at seven o'clock next morning, on the eighth, 
 weighed anchor and steamed our way out of the 
 harbor, taking our course for St. Thomas. The 
 sea was calm, although the wind was ahead, and 
 we glided along the coast at nine knots. As we
 
 60 JOURNAL. 
 
 passed through the Narrows, and rounded Moro 
 Castle, the city of Havana looked far more beau- 
 tiful than we had seen it before. 
 
 Moro Castle is erected on a rock of great ex- 
 tent, out in the sea. We were told by our ship- 
 mate, Whitney, from Matanzas, that a large num- 
 ber of cells were excavated in the rock, below 
 the structure, where criminals were placed, and 
 few, if any, ever came out that were there im- 
 mured; which we could readily give credit to, 
 from what came under our own observation. I 
 omitted to say, in the proper place, that just in 
 front of our hotel was an old cathedral, where 
 we were told all the instruments of torture were 
 kept, that were in use during the Spanish Inquisi- 
 tion, and were still used for certain crimes, which 
 we were not slow to believe, as Catholicism gov- 
 erns every movement and measure; indeed, all 
 the power of life and death is in their hands. 
 We had mingled with Catholic priests in France, 
 and found them social and polite; but not so on 
 this island, as they were passing us daily, in their 
 long robes and cowls, without turning their heads 
 or looking at us, probably having knowledge of 
 our being Protestants ; that of itself would brand 
 us with heresy.
 
 PASSENGERS. 61 
 
 After getting fully under way, they began to 
 clean up, and in the course of the day got things 
 comfortable. The captain and officers were 
 social, and the passengers familiar; our fare was 
 good, and everything done to make us comfort- 
 able, but we were both sea-sick. The French 
 minister, with his young wife, from Mexico, was 
 on board ; he is at least sixty years of age, con- 
 siderably bowed, and quiet in his habits; his- 
 wife was a young girl of seventeen. He told me 
 he had watched her as a school-girl, from early 
 childhood. She was rather dull and unsocial; 
 she had an attendant with her, of whom she 
 made a companion. She was quite an heiress; 
 her father having recently died, left her, as we 
 were told on board the ship, the sum of seven 
 hundred thousand dollars. On hearing this, we 
 did not so much wonder he wanted to marry her, 
 but were somewhat surprised at her choice. 
 Their manoeuvring for the first twenty-four hours 
 out, created much merriment among the pas- 
 sengers. We had all been forewarned by the 
 steward that not one of our port-hole windows 
 should be left open at night, as the sea was run- 
 ning pretty high, and would, without doubt, cause 
 the water to clash into the state-rooms. He even 
 
 6*
 
 62 JOURNAL. 
 
 went round himself and locked every window, 
 but, by* some means or other, the minister and 
 his wife got theirs open; soon after which we 
 shipped a sea, they having all the benefit of it in 
 their berths, giving everything in their state- 
 room a drenching. The stewardess was called 
 up in great haste, as the minister and wife were 
 dripping, and knew not what to do. Everything 
 had to be removed from their state-room, and it 
 was a long time before anything could be pro- 
 cured to prepare them another bed, but the inci- 
 dent caused merriment enough for the rest of 
 the passage. 
 
 We found there was much to learn on ship- 
 board, and all the variety of characters to be 
 met with, but we enjoyed it much after all. F. 
 Busang, wife, and child, returning to Germany; 
 George Branaman, wife, and child, from Lancas- 
 ter County, Pennsylvania, and many others ; Dr. 
 Falls, Hicks, the rebel spy, and Howland, wife, 
 and two daughters, from New York, sympa- 
 thizers with Hicks ; this party, with some others, 
 constituted our ship's company. The only good 
 Union man on board, we believe, was George 
 Armond,with his son, from Chicago. Our course 
 lay along the Island of Cuba, which we kept in 
 sight most of its length.
 
 ST. DOMINGO. 63 
 
 10th. Sea rough; wind, southeast. It is first 
 day ; nearly all ot the passengers sick. » 
 
 11th. We are now opposite St. Domingo, and 
 where the Spaniards are warring against them, to 
 subdue them to the Spanish yoke. 
 
 This government, a few years ago, was treach- 
 erously given up to the Spanish Crown, by the 
 Governor ; the Spaniards, failing to comply with 
 the articles of agreement, the Dominicans, white 
 and black, have declared for independence ; and 
 now a most destructive war is raging. 
 
 13th. We passed in sight of numerous small 
 islands, also, Porto Rico, which is mountainous and 
 quite extensive, and entered the beautiful harbor 
 of St. Thomas, on fourth day, the thirteenth of 
 first mo., 1864, about two o'clock p.m., being five 
 days and seven hours performing the trip, a dis- 
 tance of seven hundred miles. The town is called 
 Charlotte Amelia, and stands on the north part 
 of the basin, on an amphitheatre of hills, rising 
 principally from the main street, which is the 
 place of business. The houses are built on the 
 side of the hill, and overlook each other, so that 
 the back streets are on a level with the tops of 
 the houses on the street below. Few of the 
 houses have window-sashes. Santa Anna resides
 
 64 JOURNAL. 
 
 here, and has a fine large house in the western 
 part of ihe town. The island is poor, estates not 
 cultivated, because the produce will not pay ex- 
 penses. Labor is high, and employment in the city 
 more congenial to the people of color. The cli- 
 mate is mild and their wants few, and they prefer 
 living on the little they can obtain to working on 
 the plantations; hence, you see such great numbers 
 of women selling a few oranges, bananas, potatoes, 
 and other fruits and vegetables all day with active 
 industry. In the evening the streets are lined 
 with men, women, boys, and girls, of all colors, 
 walking for recreation, dressed in white, with flag 
 handkerchiefs around their heads, gowns trailing 
 in dust, shoes down at heel, making a dreadful 
 clatter as they walk ; they talk loud, and are dis- 
 turbing to more quiet and retiring people. The 
 first night of our arrival, we supposed there was 
 a riot in the streets from the tumult heard, but 
 on inquiry in the morning, as to the cause, were 
 told it was their custom to perambulate the 
 streets every night, which they keep up until near 
 morning. No one appeared to take cognizance 
 of their conduct, as it seemed to us they were 
 continually under fearful apprehension. 
 
 We had a letter of introduction to Robert
 
 THE GOVERNOR. 65 
 
 Swift, which was delivered, and he, with his 
 daughter, called on us at the Commercial Hotel, 
 where we put up. Giles W. Smith, the Vice- 
 Consul, and the wife of the Consul (he being sick), 
 having heard through some of their friends of our 
 being there, soon called upon us and offered their 
 services. He very politely introduced us to the 
 Governor of the island and other gentlemen, in 
 order to facilitate our prospect to hold a meeting 
 in that place. 
 
 The Governor, whose name is Rachae, is a very 
 agreeable and polite man, granted freely all we 
 asked relative to holding meetings in the houses, 
 or in the public squares. His dwelling stands on a 
 beautiful slope fronting the sea, but like all places, 
 at least most we have ever seen, where slavery 
 once existed, looked out of order, not well kept, 
 while the grounds were overgrown with weeds ; 
 but his warm and generous heart more than pre- 
 ponderated against the neglected grounds and 
 careless appearance around his otherwise beauti- 
 ful home. 
 
 The great number of ships, continually riding 
 at anchor in the harbor, adds much to the beauty 
 of the natural scenery, which in itself is magnifi- 
 cent. The shipping hails from every clime, whose
 
 66 JOURNAL. 
 
 inmates do much to enliven the hilarity of the 
 winter season during their stay, although here 
 they have no winter in their year. Our winter 
 months are chosen as the most fitting time for 
 strangers to tarry on this or any other of the 
 West India Islands, in consequence of yellow 
 fever and other contagions, prevailing when the 
 weather is warm or mild in Northern latitudes. 
 This island is subject to dreadful hurricanes, 
 which not unfrequently demolish houses, as well 
 as contribute to the loss of many lives. "When, 
 and by whom, St. Thomas was first settled, cannot 
 be traced with any certainty. That its safe and 
 commodious harbor early attracted the first navi- 
 gators of the Caribbean Sea, especially the Dutch, 
 as a port of refuge, or place of repair and re- 
 freshment, there can be little doubt. About that 
 time some of the English settled at St. Croix. In 
 1625, some individuals took up their abode at St. 
 Thomas, the superiority of the harbor over any 
 other of the Caribbees, confirmed the supposition. 
 The first settlers fled from Crab Island, to escape 
 death from the hands of the merciless Spaniards, 
 who made a descent on that island, sparing neither 
 aged women or children, wherever found. Those 
 who found refuge on the Island of St. Thomas,
 
 TOWERS. 67 
 
 were saved from a cruel death, only by commit- 
 ting their frail little bark to the mercy of the 
 winds and waves, not knowing whither they went. 
 Here they found there had been a settlement, as 
 oranges, citrons, 4imes, and bananas w r ere growing 
 in abundance. 
 
 There are on all of these islands an infinite 
 number of beautiful land and sea birds. On this 
 island there is but little good soil, w T hich, no 
 doubt, prevented its being thickly settled for a 
 long series of years. It is the general opinion of 
 the inhabitants of St. Thomas, that the island 
 was at one time possessed by the Buccaneers. 
 Three old towers are within the walls of Fort 
 Christian, and two others on hills north and 
 east of the town, which gave rise to this idea. 
 The romantic names of Black Beard and also 
 Beard's Castles have been given to the towers on 
 the hills, being so pointed out to strangers that 
 visit the island. They form a part of the pic- 
 turesque panorama of the surrounding scenery 
 on entering the harbor, with their bold outline 
 against the sky, with the lights streaming through 
 their embrasures ; the imagination is readily at 
 work, busy filling up a view of this pleasing ef- 
 fect upon the mind. The tower within Fort
 
 68 JOURNAL. 
 
 Christian, according to tradition on the island, 
 was there when the Danes took possession of it, 
 but it must have been built by the Dutch in 1667. 
 Some now say they were built by the Danes 
 after they formed in a colony, and were in peace- 
 able possession of the island. Gorgen Iverson 
 was the first Governor, despatched by the Golden 
 Crown. A company was formed called the Dan- 
 ish West India and Guinea Company. On the 
 sixteenth of March, 1667, they published that the 
 directors, six in number, with at least two thou- 
 sand rix dollars invested in the company, and one 
 hundred rix dollars should constitute a share- 
 holder. They now began to make their laws. 
 Every person who speaks Danish is bound to at- 
 tend church every.Sabbath when the drum beats, 
 or, on failure, to pay a fine of twenty-five pounds 
 of tobacco. So, we see the law of force prevailed 
 even among those isolated people, who had suf- 
 fered greatly from others, as soon as the power 
 passed into their own hands. Every householder 
 was bound to encourage his servants to be pious, 
 and have morning and evening prayers. I think 
 this last must have been a more difficult task 
 than handing over the tobacco. Another of their 
 laws was, when the drum beats, every man should
 
 WAR. 69 
 
 apprise his neighbor, that all might be in readi- 
 ness in case of invasion. If in the night, he must 
 fire a random shot, as also his neighbor, or suffer 
 a severe penalty. But really I cannot see that we 
 have made any considerable advance on this point 
 for two hundred years ; as now, the laws relating 
 to war, offensive or defensive, are much the same 
 as in that early day. Genius, in bringing out in- 
 ventions for carrying on war and taking life, is a 
 thousand-fold more effective. Calling to mind 
 the question of one of the inspired, to the people 
 of his day, " Shall the sword devour forever!" 
 
 " Shall strife and war forever reign, 
 And God's fair earth be stained 
 "With life's blood of the robust youths, 
 To deeds of slaughter trained ? 
 
 " And vengeful passion fire the soul, 
 
 "Where God's pure love should dwell ; 
 And earth outdo, in sin and shame, 
 The clergy's fabled hell ? 
 
 " While cripples hobble o'er the earth, 
 Aided by crutch, or cane, 
 And all the skies seem clothed in black, 
 Mourning the early slain ?
 
 70 JOURNAL. 
 
 " And pauper houses e'er be crammed 
 With victims made by war, 
 And crimes that follow in its train, 
 Which all the pure abhor ? 
 
 " And courts and prisons still remain, 
 To crush the erring soul, 
 That should be washed at wisdom's fount, 
 And by our love made whole ? 
 
 " And man deprave his fellow-man, 
 In hoarding filthy pelf, 
 And strong ones crush the poor and weak, 
 In greedy gain for self? 
 
 " And debts by millions multiplied, 
 Poor toilers to enslave, 
 And change by force the honest few 
 To murderer, thief, or knave ?" 
 
 The highly gifted Franklin tells us, there never 
 was a good war, or a bad peace. 
 
 Take away the sword; states can be saved 
 without it. — E. Bulwer Lytton. 
 
 War is entirely inefficient towards redressing 
 wrong. — A. L. 
 
 I hold war the greatest of human crimes. — Lord 
 Brougham. 
 
 War suspends every idea of justice and human- 
 ity. — M. Wicker.
 
 LABORING CLASSES. 71 
 
 "War, a damnable profession, a trade of barbar- 
 ism. — Charles Sumner. 
 
 " If we believe in the universal brotherhood, 
 and acknowledge the Divine law, of love to God 
 and man, as embodying our whole Christian duty, 
 we cannot go to war, or encourage others to en- 
 gage in it." 
 
 But I have digressed far from my subject-mat- 
 ter, relating to our introduction to the Governor 
 of the Island of St. Thomas. 
 
 "We are told by every one with whom we con- 
 versed, that the laboring class is so idle that they 
 cannot be induced to work, except a little at a 
 time; that when they earn a few dollars, they will 
 take a rest until it is spent, and then work again ; 
 that great inducements had been offered them to 
 work on the plantations, but they could not be 
 induced to do so. Laboring men, who work 
 about the wharves at loading and unloading ves- 
 sels, can do tolerably well as to earning a liveli- 
 hood, at certain periods; but when the hurry 
 is over, they have nothing to do, and small 
 pieces of land have been offered them, at a mod- 
 erate rent, but they will not work it, when they 
 might obtain ready sale for their fruits and vege- 
 tables. They cannot be induced to leave the city.
 
 72 JOURNAL. 
 
 Hence St. Thomas is dependent on other islands 
 for vegetables, and all other articles of food, — 
 principally St. John and Tortola. This state- 
 ment we found to be incorrect, both from infor- 
 mation derived from respectable white men, as 
 well as colored, although our 'informants had 
 not intended to give us wrong impressions. As 
 the liberation of the slaves was not done volun- 
 tarily, but through insurrection, they have never 
 been looked upon, as far as we could learn, as 
 free people, save by the Governor of the island, 
 and there appears a disposition still to keep them 
 in bondage. The small prices offered them for 
 labor on the plantations, which are exceedingly 
 hard to cultivate, being mostly rocky hillsides, 
 or on the tops of what we should call mountains, 
 where there is a little table-land, is not sufficient 
 to procure them a subsistence. As a consequence, 
 feeling themselves despised, and most of them in 
 abject poverty, they seemed to care little how 
 they obtained their living, whether by plunder 
 or otherwise, although there are many exceptions 
 to this rule. The country is so unproductive, the 
 planters care little whether it is cultivated or not, 
 — merchandise and other business being far 
 more profitable.
 
 COLORED PEOPLE. 73 
 
 After ascending one of the heights, on our 
 return, on a very hot morning, we met a number 
 of old colored people, bowed with age, leaning on 
 their staffs, endeavoring to ascend the mountain- 
 top, saying they were going there to work, for 
 which they would receive a few pennies. They 
 were wretchedly clad, and in great degradation. 
 "We stopped them, and had some conversation 
 with them, and gave them a little money, while 
 we deeply deplored their condition. All this, we 
 were satisfied, might have been otherwise, and 
 they elevated to feel their manhood and woman- 
 hood, had justice and truth, which are the habi- 
 tation and throne of the Almighty, been the 
 guiding star of the people who had long held 
 them in bondage. Of misery and wretchedness 
 we have seen a great amount, as well as on the 
 island we had just left, where oppression and 
 violence reign. There is ever wasting and de- 
 struction, and we were satisfied while there, that 
 if the present course continues to the freed 
 people, insurrections, with all their horrors, will 
 be the result, as oppression is said to make " the 
 wise man mad." So wretched and miserable a 
 class of colored people, as we saw everywhere on 
 this island, we had never seen before, and de- 
 
 7*
 
 74 JOURNAL. 
 
 moralization seemed to us without a parallel. 
 One lady, who lived opposite our hotel, from one 
 of the New England States, who had been re- 
 siding there for a long time, with her husband, 
 whose health was impaired, told us they could 
 but wonder that God had not sunk the island in 
 the bottom of the sea, long before, in consequence 
 of the wickedness and immoralit}' of the people. 
 But we wish it to be understood, that we found 
 exceptions to this general rule, as there are some 
 worthy and excellent people on the island. We 
 need not ask what has brought about this state 
 of things. The judgment of every thinking in- 
 dividual must be convinced that the curse of 
 slavery is at the bottom of it all; that its deadly 
 fangs are more to be dreaded than the most poi- 
 sonous viper. The coils of the anaconda or boa 
 constrictor are but its fit emblems, when twined 
 around the souls and bodies of the defenceless. 
 All kinds of animals have been tamed but man; 
 his tongue is described as full of deadly poison, 
 but that is merely the outspeaking of his soul, 
 or rather his animal nature, as soul he has but 
 little, for that is his humanity, and he who can 
 bind and oppress his fellow-man, laying upon
 
 A SLAVEHOLDER. 75 
 
 him heavy burdens, has but little humanity in 
 his breast. 
 
 In company one evening with a man from 
 Porto Rico (which we did not learn until just be- 
 fore he left), we had a long conversation on the 
 subject of slavery. He not wishing we should 
 know where he belonged, told us he knew much 
 of the condition of slavery on that island; telling 
 how well the system prospered; that the slaves 
 were as happy as birds; that they were fed on 
 the best of food, such as the planters eat; and 
 laid up a great deal of money; that five men, in 
 a few years, accumulated three thousand dollars 
 apiece, which their master held in trust, they not 
 wishing to purchase their freedom with it. They 
 had wives and children on the plantation, who 
 were happy as they ; but some contagion making 
 its appearance on the island, the five men fell 
 victims to the disease. The money the owner of 
 the slaves had held, he made use of in supplying 
 their places with other slaves. We asked, if that 
 was a correct statement, whether he thought it 
 was just in the man, and why he had not given 
 their families their liberty, if he retained the 
 money? His answer was, " They would not have 
 their freedom," saying, "a woman in advanced
 
 76 JOURNAL. 
 
 age was offered her freedom, and would not ac- 
 cept it, at the time, saying, ' Massa, what does I 
 want of freedom? You's alles been so good to 
 me. !No, I will not leave you ; I wants no free- 
 dom; you may keep all my money.'" We told 
 him, admitting all he said to be true, which was 
 entirely unnatural, "Did it not plainly show, that 
 by being downtrodden and oppressed, they had 
 become greatly degraded, and that the cupidity 
 of the white man had subverted the laws of God, 
 for which the day of retribution was at hand?" 
 He said, "Madam, I think it is time for me to 
 go," and soon bowed himself out, giving us 
 sufficient evidence, before he left, that he was the 
 very man who had perpetrated the foul deed, and 
 given so vivid a description of the blessings of 
 slavery, which he had been narrating. 
 
 15th. Took a walk around the hill, and pro- 
 cured some pieces of coral, which is very cheap 
 about this island, and abundant in the ocean. 
 We walked for a long way on the sea-side, before 
 arriving at the spot where a great variety of 
 corals are sold. The colored people dive in order 
 to procure them, and mostly pry them from the 
 rocks. When first taken from the water, they 
 are stone color, but on being exposed to rain and
 
 CORALS. 77 
 
 sun, they become bleached to the whiteness of 
 alabaster, Avhile many of the beautiful shells, pro- 
 cured in the same way, or washed up on the 
 shores, are transparent as glass, and of pure 
 whiteness. There are many coral reefs, extend- 
 ing out in the sea. After bringing the corals to 
 the shore, the most delicate of many varieties of 
 all fantastic figures found among them are re- 
 moved to the dwellings of the divers, where 
 scaffolds are erected, on which they are spread, 
 and exposed to rain and sun until of dazzling 
 whiteness; the coarser and less delicate, for 
 bleaching, are left on the shore. It is a splendid 
 sight to look over the many varieties, and take 
 account of their perfect symmetry, of every im- 
 aginable shape. The Queen of Conchs is a shell 
 of surpassing beauty. One was brought us, just 
 as it was taken from the ocean, with the inhabi- 
 tant and rightful owner of the tenement just 
 within the door, which is ever ajar. We pur- 
 chased it, dwelling and all, and I soon set myself 
 to work to eject the occupant, but he was a great 
 deal stronger than we supposed, and resisted the 
 invaders of his right, even unto death, letting us 
 know that "his house was his castle," for as soon 
 as I touched the skin of the animal, he darted
 
 78 JOURNAL. 
 
 like lightning into the deepest recesses of his 
 stronghold, from whence no entreaties, or threat- 
 enings, would drive him forward, save by plung- 
 ing tenement and its occupant in hot water; so 
 that, with all our skill set to work, we at last had 
 to resort to hanging ; a hard fate, but the only re- 
 sort left; and this was done by bending a strong 
 wire, so as to penetrate into the interior of the ani- 
 mal's dwelling, which caught him in the trap; 
 but I think he hung suspended for twenty-four 
 hours, before he let go his hold on life, which he 
 clung to with the greatest tenacity. This animal 
 is near the size of a man's hand; they are often 
 used for the table, but I should dispense with 
 them for food, if all are as hard to procure as 
 this one. We had them on our table ; they are 
 like the hard part of a clam. This shell is of 
 unusual beauty, having the tints of the rainbow. 
 We purchased many other varieties, which we 
 brought back with us to the United States, being 
 highly prized, and of much value here. They 
 are as much admired by our numerous friends as 
 by ourselves, and have tended to beguile many 
 tedious hours of loneliness and solitude, since my 
 return ; feeling even now, while preparing this 
 work for the perusal of others, that I seem to be
 
 REFLECTIONS. 79 
 
 living the time over again; but not with the 
 same enlivening pleasure, as when I wandered 
 over that, and many other islands, in company 
 with my loved and honored husband, whose 
 sweet counsel is heard no more on earth ; his re- 
 deemed spirit having gone to "that land where 
 angels only dwell, and years have no ending." 
 His cheerfulness ever contributed to keep off en- 
 nui, or depression, even when I was an invalid. 
 Having an eye for the beautiful in nature, he saw 
 new charms in every scene, as well on the "beau- 
 tiful sea" as in the enchanting verdure of the 
 landscape of those tropical isles, saying, with an 
 inspired poet of the Seasons, "'These, as they 
 change, Almighty Father! these are but the 
 varied God ! ' Not only is the rolling year full 
 of Thee, but Thou art ever present, ever felt; and 
 Thy glory on the broad bosom of the ocean, as in 
 the shadowy vale ! Thy goodness and Thy love 
 are unconfined. Thou pourest Thy sunbeams 
 o'er this world of ours, while we poor thought- 
 less mortals go plodding on, boasting ourselves 
 of to-morrow, not giving ourselves time (at least 
 many of us), to reflect, that to-morrow's sun to 
 us may never rise." 
 
 I must not fail to remark that visitors, who
 
 80 JOURNAL. 
 
 take up their abode at this very excellent hotel, 
 each couple have a steady waiter appointed, on 
 whom they can call at all times for everything 
 they wish, whether at table, in the drawing-room, 
 or their own chamber, which we found a great 
 luxury. The name of our attendant was John 
 Shilling, a kind-hearted, generous fellow, ever 
 ready to wait on us with the nicest fruits of the 
 season, as well as choice viands at the table. 
 
 My dear husband and self were delighted with 
 his attentions, often giving him some extra coins. 
 ~No one, who has not found himself far from his 
 own dear native land, entirely among strangers, can 
 realize the pleasure of having a kind heart to feel 
 for, and willing hand to perform many little kind 
 offices, so frequently needful. We found many 
 other people of color on that island kind, polite, 
 and gentlemanly, many who were merchants and 
 shopkeepers of different kinds, merchant tailors, 
 and others engaged in different employments, the 
 same as the whites ; but caste is quite as observa- 
 ble here as in our own prejudiced country. In 
 front of our hotel was what is called by some the 
 Emancipation Garden. I presume the land was 
 purchased by the freed people, many of whom 
 are now rich, as we heard little or nothing said
 
 MOONLIGHT. 81 
 
 about it by the whites. It consists of a large area 
 of ground, inclosed with a nice picket fence, on 
 the border of the sea, grounds laid out with much 
 good taste, containing a great variety of exotic 
 plants and shrubs, with many ornamental trees, 
 covered with flowers of exquisite beauty as well as 
 odoriferous perfumes. There we found the ipe- 
 cacuanha tree, from which we procured some of 
 the pods, of great size, containing the seeds from 
 which this drug is made; together with a host 
 of flowers and plants of primal beauty. At this 
 hotel we had a grand view of the sea and harbor 
 from the spacious balcony in the front of our 
 house, where we might sit at all times and enjoy 
 the sea-breezes, and spend our evenings in that 
 charming spot when the full-orbed moon was 
 pouring forth its light and shadows. It was a 
 scene of surpassing beauty! The shadows of 
 moonlight are exquisitely beautiful in any land, 
 but it seemed to shine on this beautiful island 
 with more than usual brightness.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Keligious Meetings— Santa Cruz — Insurrections in 
 the Islands. 
 
 17th. Fine day; though there is no calculating 
 on the weather; showers spring up suddenly even 
 when least expected. The thermometer ranges 
 from 72° to 80°, yet we do not feel the heat, when 
 out of the sun, so oppressive, owing to constant 
 breezes. Feeling our minds drawn to hold a 
 meeting among the people, the proprietor of the 
 hotel kindly offered his saloon, which was capa- 
 ble of seating a large number, and in the evening 
 was well filled with white and colored, large 
 numbers being on the balcony, and in passage- 
 ways. The hour appointed was 7J o'clock, and 
 after perfect quiet was enjoined, the company 
 was addressed for half an hour on the nature of 
 true and vital religion — giving a brief synopsis 
 of the faith of the Society of Friends, and what 
 constituted a call to the Gospel ministry, which 
 was proved satisfactorily, as we thought, to every
 
 RELIGIOUS MEETINGS. 83 
 
 unprejudiced mind, great numbers coming for- 
 ward to acknowledge their entire approval. 
 
 I had, at the commencement of the discourse, 
 told them how rejoiced we felt, on leaving the 
 land of slavery in Cuba, to find ourselves on 
 free soil, where there was freedom of speech, 
 freedom of thought, freedom of the press, and 
 where all classes of men stood upright, realiz- 
 ing their manhood, under the sacred boon of 
 liberty; and mentally cried out as we set our 
 foot on what we considered free soil, "All hail 
 to the land of the free !" Then stated it was 
 slavery and oppression that had involved the 
 greatest country in the world, our own United 
 States of America, in the calamitous war now 
 upon us. But we had not expected to find a 
 vestige of it on that island, or a sympathizer with 
 its friends, among them ; saying, with the excep- 
 tion of that foul blot, slavery, in the United States, 
 its benign laws excelled all others on the globe. 
 From this, Hicks and his friends took umbrage, 
 and deserted their post, all the rest remaining 
 quiet, trying to draw nearer and nearer to our 
 standing-place. At the conclusion, a meeting 
 was announced for the day following, at four 
 o'clock, at Cocoanut Square.
 
 84 JOURNAL. 
 
 "We went according to appointment, and met a 
 very large number of all classes and colors, and 
 I had not stood long on a platform erected for 
 the purpose, before it commenced raining fast ; 
 we were under the necessity of dispersing, as we 
 were in the open air, but first announced a meet- 
 ing at the same hour the day following, at the 
 same place, nineteenth of the month, third day. 
 
 The following day we again met the people ; 
 numbers having increased, the square was liter- 
 ally crowded. We trust counsel and advice was 
 held forth suited to their conditions, and at the 
 same time directing their attention to the gift 
 within, that would teach them their duty to their 
 God, and to each other; holding out the great 
 importance to the white people of making use of 
 every means in their power for the elevation and 
 enlightenment of the emancipated ; telling them 
 no country could prosper under oppression ; de- 
 siring them to turn their attention to the proper 
 means of furnishing them with suitable labor; 
 stating the statistics of what was being done in 
 the United States by the hands of laborers in the 
 improvement of our country, and cultivation of 
 our soil, some parts of it as sterile as theirs, 
 which had to give way under the hand of indus-
 
 RELIGIOUS MEETINGS. 85 
 
 try, and was made now to blossom as the rose ; 
 the iron bands of our railroads, uniting together 
 North and South, East and West; that we had 
 observed much labor needful to be performed 
 on that island, which would greatly tend to ele- 
 vate, and work a wonderful change among them; 
 so that instead of the colored people perambulat- 
 ing the streets, both day and night, in idleness 
 and immorality, they would find that industry, 
 sobriety, and temperance, was the road to wealth 
 and distinction, and would prepare all classes to 
 become good citizens. No fear would then be 
 entertained of insurrectionary movements. 
 
 After an hour spent in giving advice of this 
 kind, we thought it best to close the opportunity, 
 all parties appearing well satisfied, shaking hands 
 until we were weary. We took a walk around 
 the town this morning, and ascended one of the 
 high hills, on which several families of the Levy's 
 reside. One of them, seeing us strolling along, 
 invited us into his house, and showed us great 
 kindness. We continued our walk along the street 
 at the side of the Governor's residence. We re- 
 gretted to see it so much neglected, both garden 
 and grounds about his house. We passed along 
 and were joined by an elderly citizen, who con- 
 
 8*
 
 86 JOURNAL. 
 
 ducted us around the bills into the lower part of 
 the town, and along the street that leads into the 
 main street near our hotel. It was a pleasant 
 walk, and gave us an opportunity of seeing much 
 we had not seen before. We bad previously 
 walked to the western extremity, where the 
 poorer classes of colored reside ; they are crowded 
 together in small houses, but for the most part, 
 cleanly fbr the class, most of whom were decently 
 clad. 
 
 On the morning of the twentieth, at five o'clock, 
 Captain "Watlington called to inform us he would 
 be readv to sail for Santa Cruz at nine o'clock, 
 but that Brenaman and JBidwell, our fellow-pas- 
 sengers from Havana, had disappointed him, by 
 taking passage with Captain James. He seemed 
 much incensed, but according to their representa- 
 tion, without cause. He kept putting us off, from 
 hour to hour, until four o'clock, soon after which 
 we were conducted on board by the clerk and 
 waiter, and weighing anchor, got under way a 
 little before five o'clock. The passage was six 
 hours and a few minutes. I soon became ex- 
 tremely seasick, not being used to a sailing ves- 
 sel, and continued so the whole distance of sixty 
 miles.
 
 SANTA CRUZ. 87 
 
 At eleven o'clock p. m. we landed, but the cus- 
 tom-house officer would not let us take anything 
 away, and were conducted to the Widow Foster's, 
 on Ocean Street, near the sea. "We went imme- 
 diately to our chamber, which was poor and badly 
 furnished. 
 
 After breakfast, informed the hostess we had 
 a letter for Eliza Arestrop, and if we liked her 
 apartments, thought we would reside with her. 
 We found everything more to our wishes at her 
 house, more comforts and more suitable com- 
 pany, and soon had our baggage brought over. 
 Dr. Joseph Shippen, mother and sister, Newton 
 Baldwin, and ourselves, constituted the company. 
 
 21st. We feel like being at home. Delivered 
 our letters of introduction to E. Fry and mother, 
 from our own city, Eliza Arestrop, William 
 Wood, I. A. Corea, and widow of Dr. Smith. 
 Dr. Shippen introduced us to, a person by the 
 name of Dunlap, a grocer, or shipchandler on 
 the wharf, whose store was the coffee-house, a 
 place of resort for Americans. Our board is 
 ten dollars each a week. We breakfast at eight 
 o'clock, dine at two o'clock, and sup at seven 
 o'clock. Our dinners were abundant, but break- 
 fast and tea ordinary. They seldom had butter
 
 88 JOURNAL. 
 
 on any of the islands that we could eat; but the 
 landlady tries to please, and sets a good table. 
 We felt satisfied she did all in her power to make 
 us comfortable. She is now aged, and is one of 
 the aristocracy of the island. 
 
 22d. The people have heard of the meeting 
 that was held at St. Thomas, and were very solic- 
 itous we should hold meetings here, and our 
 hostess has kindly offered her parlor and dining- 
 room for the purpose. 
 
 Before announcing our wishes, we concluded 
 to call on the Judge, and know his will, so that 
 we need not trespass on the laws of the land. 
 We found him a true democrat; knew no dis- 
 tinction of color. " All classes of citizens are 
 placed," said he, " upon the same footing." He 
 gave his entire approbation to our holding meet- 
 ings, when and where we pleased, and even 
 suggested the yard of Eliza Arestrop as being 
 very suitable to hold a quiet meeting. Prelimi- 
 naries being all arranged, word was given out 
 that a meeting would be held in the parlors of 
 Eliza Arestrop, at seven and a half o'clock, on 
 first day evening, the twenty-fourth instant, if 
 we might judge by the expression of the people, 
 to much satisfaction. A large number gathered,
 
 INSURRECTION. 89 
 
 but some were highly indignant at remarks that 
 were made, as at St. Thomas, relative to emanci- 
 pation, telling us, after the meeting, that they 
 were liberated only through insurrection, and 
 would still be far better off in slavery, at that 
 time; that it had only tended to make them a set 
 of lazy, lounging loafers, and had deprived them, 
 the whites, of their property, which the govern- 
 ment of Denmark had no right to do ; that be- 
 fore emancipation was proclaimed they were a 
 happy people; but since, the most aristocratic 
 among them have been reduced to poverty. 
 They censured the Governor very highly, who 
 made the proclamation, and said he would have 
 lost his life, in consequence of the indignation 
 of the people, had he not fled from the island ; 
 giving us a synopsis of the horrors of the scene 
 during the time the insurrectionists were peram- 
 bulating that town, as well as others on the 
 island, which was horrible in the extreme. 
 
 The three islands, St. Thomas, St. John, and 
 St. Croix, as we have seen, were successively col- 
 onized by the Danes; supplied with slaves, im- 
 ported by the Danish West India and Guiana 
 Company, from the coast of Africa. This sup- 
 ply was, at a very early period in the history
 
 90 JOURNAL. 
 
 of the colonies, greater than at the present 
 time. A very large number were of the most 
 savage character. ' When all the islands had 
 been supplied, they numbered together over 
 thirty-one thousand. To subdue them to bond- 
 age, and compel them to labor, led to the most 
 rigorous measures. Life and limb were often 
 sacrificed, that order might be maintained, and 
 refractory spirits overcome. At first, almost un- 
 limited power was held by masters over them. 
 By degrees, the government restricted this power, 
 and as civilization advanced placed the slaves 
 under more humane laws. But little, however, 
 had been done to bring them under the hallowed 
 influence of Christianity, except by pious colo- 
 nists. That the islands reaped a great advantage 
 from the improved character of these slaves, 
 there can be no doubt. After this, there were 
 certain laws enacted, relative to the bondage of 
 children; that at the age of twelve years it 
 should entirely cease. It produced little or no 
 demonstrations of joy when this was made 
 known; discontent was rather manifested, and 
 soon an insurrection was plotted. They felt 
 more anxious than ever for the sweets of free- 
 dom. As their concerted plan was adopted,
 
 INSURRECTION. 91 
 
 great numbers joining with them, it astonished 
 the people it had not been more extensively di- 
 vulged. But few, if any, of the planters or 
 citizens had the least knowledge of its existence; 
 it was known, however, to some officers of the 
 government, and warnings had been written from 
 Tortola. 
 
 Seventh month second, ushered in the Sabbath 
 morning of the commencement of the insurrec- 
 tion, with its usual quietness and peace. To- 
 wards evening a commotion was visible, but few 
 felt any uneasiness. Simultaneously, alarms rang 
 out from many estates, at the given signal, and 
 as these alarms spread out from every part of 
 the island, consternation and uproar, tumult and 
 terror, spread on all sides; fear, in its most bitter 
 form, seized upon the minds of the inhabitants 
 of Frederickstadt and the estates contiguous, and 
 many rushed immediately to the shipping lying 
 in the harbor. Some of the inhabitants applied 
 to the authorities to resist with military force, 
 but were refused. The night was one of horror; 
 terror conjectured the worst consequences, but 
 no violence was offered during the night to per- 
 sons or property, as its sleepless hours passed. 
 A message was despatched, with all haste, to
 
 92 JOURNAL. 
 
 Governor Vail Scholter, informing him of the 
 insurrection, and requesting his immediate pres- 
 ence. At eight o'clock, on the morning of the 
 third, about two thousand negroes came into the 
 town, armed with various weapons. They went 
 directly to the fort,* and demanded their free- 
 dom, but were told that no one there had au- 
 thority to grant their request. 
 
 Their number had now increased to . three 
 thousand, and their passions becoming greatly 
 inflamed, they proceeded to the destruction of 
 property. The police offices and judge's house 
 were completely sacked, and documents of great 
 importance destroyed, or scattered to the four 
 winds. They now became more violent, and de- 
 clared if their freedom was not proclaimed by 
 four o'clock, they would burn the town, which 
 
 * This fort is a formidable structure, standing on the border 
 of the sea, in the town of Frederickstadt, where a large num- 
 ber of soldiers are stationed ; but, in this case, they could do 
 nothing. The people were desperate ; being driven to mad- 
 ness. I could but picture to my mind's eye their oppressed 
 condition to be our own, we cannot tell what measures we 
 might resort to, to gain our liberty, which, with many, is 
 dearer than life itself. In their fury they tore up the whip- 
 ping-post, which same thing we could have done, and attach no 
 blame to them for so doing.
 
 FREEDOM PROCLAIMED. 93 
 
 they had entirely in their possession, since the 
 commencement of the insurrection. The very 
 worst consequences were apprehended, if they 
 should be resisted. A citizen, whom we know 
 well, who fled to the fort for protection, impru- 
 dently made some remarks, which exasperated 
 them. They immediately proceeded to his house 
 and store, and laid everything waste. The Gov- 
 ernor soon arrived and entered the fort; a great 
 crowd of negroes had now gathered around the 
 walls. Intense anxiety prevailed on every hand; 
 the commander of the fort repeatedly asked 
 for orders. At length, to the amazement of 
 the officers and citizens, freedom was proclaim- 
 ed from the ramparts, by the Governor, to all 
 slaves in the Danish "West India Islands, which 
 the slaves could not believe. The third night 
 a band of negroes attempted to enter the town, 
 about ten o'clock. Efforts were made to pre- 
 vent them; they were ordered back by the of- 
 ficers; not obeying, a blank cartridge was fired; 
 still pressing on in the most daring and dis- 
 orderly manner, grape-shot was at length poured 
 in their ranks, killing several, and wounding 
 many. One of the inhabitants told us she saw 
 from the ship on which she had been placed, 
 
 9
 
 94 JOURNAL. 
 
 fragments of bodies flying in the air, when they 
 were fired on. They all now fled, and gave up 
 their attempt upon the place. The following 
 night was one of greater horror than those pre- 
 vious. Fires were everywhere visible, lighting 
 up the very heavens. They had the entire pos- 
 session of the island, except the fort. Most of 
 the women and children had been conveyed to 
 the shipping in the harbor. It was expected the 
 slaves would plunder all the houses, and murder 
 the inhabitants. In the country, however, the 
 greatest disorder prevailed, and on many estates 
 destruction was the result. 
 
 On the morning of the fourth the startling in- 
 telligence was announced of the insurrection of 
 St. Thomas, and they were compelled to proclaim 
 freedom at once, in the public streets, at the 
 drum-head. A crowd of women and boys fol- 
 lowed the drum, and shouted and danced inerriry. 
 It was received on the plantations in the most 
 quiet manner, and all continued their work. 
 
 This was the case, too, at St. Croix; but they 
 were afterward under great alarm at the latter 
 place, requesting the militia from St. Thomas to 
 come on, and sent to Porto Rico for Spanish 
 troops, as well as to an English man-of-war lying
 
 INSURRECTION. 95 
 
 in the harbor of St. Thomas. Troops went on, 
 and found them in great disorder, but were not 
 marched out, — the Governor having gone on 
 with them from St. Thomas. The next day, 
 without the orders of the Governor, they were 
 marched out, and the insurrection was quelled; 
 but not until all the troops were procured 
 from the two islands, as well as Spanish troops, 
 numbering five hundred infantry, with a division 
 of sappers aud miners, and two pieces of ord- 
 nance. 
 
 / The island now presented the most desolate 
 appearance; great destruction of property and 
 loss of life. The Governor immediately left the 
 island for Denmark. That the slaves did not do 
 greater violence, is the wonder of the greater part 
 of the inhabitants, both in the destruction of 
 property and sacrifice of the lives of the people, 
 as they held at their mercy all that was possessed 
 on the island, and had in their hands abundant 
 means to inflame their passions, to promote 
 rapine and murder. A good degree of order 
 aud quiet was eventually effected by the Spanish 
 troops. Finding the emancipated slaves were 
 many of them not inclined to labor on the plan-
 
 96 JOURNAL. 
 
 tations for the small pittance of from four to ten 
 cents a day, with one salt herring and a quart of 
 meal, the planters considered this the great diffi- 
 culty to be overcome. 
 
 This is where the difficulty lies in all the West 
 India Islands. The owners of the plantations are 
 not willing to pay the people for their labor, let 
 them toil hard as they may. Twenty cents per 
 day would insure laborers sufficient to do all the 
 work, without the importation of Coolies, whom 
 they impose on to the greatest extent. There 
 would be no cry, " The people are idle," were it 
 not that covetousness and cupidity bring about 
 this state of things. They had been receiving 
 the labor and life's blood of that poor oppressed 
 people, without any remuneration save the salt 
 herring and, as they told us, musty corn-meal. 
 No wonder the people would not work, although 
 we advised them to labor for the smallest pit- 
 tance, rather than live in idleness. The same cry 
 of idleness and indifference to labor is at this 
 time being proclaimed by planters in the South, 
 in our own country, but with no more truth 
 than in the West Indies. The labor of the freed 
 people is coveted in the still would-be Slave 
 States, without any more compensation than be-
 
 SLAVERY. 97 
 
 fore they were proclaimed free; and this iniqui- 
 tous practice is being resorted to wherever the 
 people of color, once in bondage, and being 
 ignorant of their rights, are too defenceless to 
 stand up like men. But we have a Congress of 
 invincibles, who seem bound to protect them at 
 all hazards. 
 
 I heard a thrilling lecture not long since, de- 
 livered by General O. 0. Howard. His remarks 
 on the cruelty of the planters towards this " rob- 
 bed and spoiled people," gave full confirmation 
 of their daily tragical and cruel treatment, even 
 at this late period of their emancipation. The 
 same cause will ever produce like effect in any 
 country. What a blessing it would prove to all 
 classes, on those islands, if some like those al- 
 luded to in our country, stood up boldly for the 
 rights of the defenceless, regardless of fear or 
 favor; free from covetousness and undue love 
 of money, which is said to be the root of all 
 evil. 
 
 On the twenty-ninth of seventh mo., 1849, or- 
 dinances were passed to compel all to resume 
 work, and restrain laborers from leaving the es- 
 tates ; with many other stringent laws imposed 
 upon them; but it did not prove successful. 
 
 9*
 
 98 JOURNAL. 
 
 The people had got a taste of freedom, and 
 thought they were free, and would not consent to 
 be again enslaved. The government of Denmark 
 paid one hundred dollars per head for every slave 
 that had been emancipated on the island ; many 
 believed it to be ruined ; others hoped all would 
 yet be well. At St. Thomas the most cruel meas- 
 ures were resorted to, to compel them to work. 
 The heart sickened at the constant use of the 
 whipping-post; but the people thought that bet- 
 ter than to allow those to stand up as men, whose 
 elevation and manhood it was then in their power 
 to promote, and who should have acted as a 
 father to his child when not able to walk alone. 
 Another Governor, by the name of Hansen, was 
 sent over, who was to act for the three islands, St. 
 Thomas, St. Croix, and St. John. He found the 
 ordinance, passed by the people, did not work 
 well, and accordingly they all again assembled, 
 and by mutual consent, with the sanction of the 
 Governor, passed laws, which were sanctioned 
 by the Danish government, which, we think, are 
 as oppressive as the first ; and when found to be 
 less so, by the planters or their agents, as far as 
 we ascertained by the slaves themselves, they fell 
 back upon the old code, if unsuccessful with the
 
 WAGES. 99 
 
 latter. Heavy penalties were annexed to their 
 slightest omission of duties. Their first engage- 
 ment is for a year, together with all their children 
 included, between the ages of five and fifteen 
 years, and other relatives who are remaining with 
 them. The contract is made in writing; the use 
 of a house, or dwelling-rooms, built and repaired 
 by the estate, but to be kept in order by the 
 laborers. The use of a piece of ground thirty 
 feet square, for a first-class and second-class la- 
 borer. If it be standing ground, which we think 
 is that of the poorest quality, fifty feet. Third- 
 class laborers are not entitled to any, but it may 
 be allowed by the employer. Wages at the rate 
 of fifteen cents per day to every first-class labor- 
 er; second-class, ten cents; third-class, five cents 
 only. When the usual allowance of meal and 
 herring has been furnished, full weekly allowance 
 shall be taken by the employer, for five cents a 
 day, or twenty-five cents a week. No attach- 
 ment of wages, for private debts, to be allowed ; 
 not more than two-thirds to be deducted for 
 debts on the estate, unless otherwise ordered by 
 the magistrate. 
 
 Let me, for a moment, take time to be allowed 
 to ask the question, Are these freed people, to
 
 100 JOURNAL. 
 
 whom liberty was proclaimed by the Governors 
 of the islands, and sanctioned by the King of 
 Denmark? If so, why those oppressive laws 
 over the weak and hitherto downtrodden slaves? 
 If this is freedom, who could desire it? But it 
 is working in the "West Indies just as it will in 
 our Southern States, — as insurrections will break 
 out everywhere under the same treatment and 
 discipline. The late insurrection at Jamaica is 
 but an example of what the other islands will be. 
 We are well acquainted with the houses or 
 dwelling-rooms of which they speak, being small 
 stone huts, with ground floor, and one or two 
 little contracted windows. The piece of ground 
 is generally in front, which they (the slaves) told 
 us was trampled down so hard they could not 
 cultivate it; and some that had the fifty feet, in 
 the interior, told us, as soon as they had brought 
 it to a state capable of producing, the employers 
 said they would give them other plots, requiring 
 theirs for very particular uses. The third-class 
 laborers are not entitled to any. Now, if this 
 class be the most inefficient, and the least able to 
 procure subsistence by their labor, what are they 
 to do? The five cents per day merely pays for 
 the meal and herring ; how are they to procure
 
 WAGES. 101 
 
 clothing, or any of the necessaries of life ? What 
 are they to do when sick? We saw no pro- 
 vision made for them anywhere, except at St. 
 Thomas, and we presume very little was done for 
 them there. "What has the first-class laborer left 
 after he has paid twenty-five cents per week out of 
 his fifteen cents per day? He has but fifty cents 
 for his week's work, for the clothing of himself 
 and family, and, it may be, sick and aged among 
 them, who must endure great privation and suf- 
 fering as a consequence. And the second-class 
 laborer is still worse off, — the herring and meal 
 of itself absorbing just half his wages. What 
 tyranny! what usurpation ! They talk of redress 
 for grievances through the magistrate, or judge; 
 but they are not allowed to leave the plantations ; 
 and if they were, supposing the magistrate takes 
 part with the planters, where are they to find 
 redress? In consequence of this, large numbers 
 of them will not work on the plantations; they 
 had rather spend their time in almost any other 
 way to procure a subsistence, as the labor is ex- 
 cessively hard, under a tropical sun, and after all, 
 they receive next to nothing for it, — the proprie- 
 tors of the soil then, as at this time, designing to 
 make their labor as remunerative to themselves, 
 
 ""BESBE"-
 
 102 JOURNAL. 
 
 as when in slavery. The sick, infirm, and aged 
 persons, shall be attended to where they are 
 domiciled, by their nearest relatives. No pa- 
 rents, or children of such infirm persons, shall 
 remove from an estate, leaving them behind, 
 without making provision for them to the owner 
 or magistrate. I ask, in the name of humanity, 
 how they are to make it? Could any law be 
 more oppressive? But would not all our South- 
 ern, as well as Northern, advocates of this unjust 
 system, willingly do the same thing, and bring 
 about a second advent of the horrible and inhu- 
 man system of slavery, of which poverty of lan- 
 guage is not capable of setting forth to the full? 
 We must be on the spot. to realize its cruelty; 
 we must mingle and enlist our sympathies in the 
 cause of the oppressed, before we can know what 
 they suffer. For all this we had a fair opportu- 
 nity, eighteen months since, of many long months' 
 sojourn on most of the West India Islands.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Frederickstadt — St. Croix — Vice and Immorality. 
 
 The town of Frederickstadt is prettily situated 
 on the sea. When the easterly winds prevail 
 that hlow over the island, the sea, for two or three 
 miles out, is calm like a river ; but when north 
 and west winds prevail, it is difficult for vessels 
 to ride at anchor near the shore, the sea at times 
 being tremendous. The main street is along the 
 seaside, and open to it, half a mile long, sparsely 
 built on, a few blocks, and then an occasional 
 house. The streets running from the sea east are 
 mostly built upon. The houses are built with 
 stone basements, and wood above, making a two- 
 story building; a few are three-stories. They 
 are so constructed as to let the air pass con- 
 stantly through every apartment; a few have 
 glass windows ; some Venetian blinds or shutters. 
 There is very little business done here. There 
 is an arsenal and fort, post-office, and residence 
 of the judge, whose name is Sallow, a Dane by 
 birth, and who speaks broken English.' We
 
 104 JOURNAL. 
 
 found him liberal, and disposed to recognize the 
 liberty and equality of men. 
 
 The people are mostly poor, and the lower 
 class in a wretched condition ; in consequence of 
 having no labor to perform, their habits have be- 
 come idle and vicious. But the whites are con- 
 sidered far more in fault than the liberated slaves, 
 as firstly the tendency of slavery is always down- 
 ward, and its every feature calculated to produce 
 vice and immorality, equally among the whites 
 as the people of color, as the term morality is 
 scarcely recognized on the islands. What has 
 done all this but slavery ? Slavery in its first and 
 second advent. 
 
 We spent ten weeks on this Island of St. Croix, 
 and should we bring before the view of the reader 
 all the misery, wretchedness, and debauchery we 
 have seen during our lives, it could bear no com- 
 parison to what we saw on the Island of St. Croix 
 alone. Although we were told in Havana, where 
 slavery exists in its worst form, that we would 
 find St. Croix a delightful and quiet retreat for 
 invalids, and as I was one who required such a 
 spot, my song was on our arrival, "All hail to 
 the land of the free !" 
 
 We" soon found the tone of our impressions
 
 FREDERICKSTADT. 105 
 
 and feelings were greatly changed ; that instead 
 of its being quiet, it is nothing short of confu- 
 sion, both night and day, with quarrels, swearing, 
 whipping children without mercy ; husbands and 
 wives fighting, the screams almost continually 
 being heard of one class or other, as if Bedlam 
 had broken loose, and the inmates were having a 
 jubilee, — all which is to be attributed entirely to 
 the great injustice of the whites, in not being 
 willing to pay them for their labor. A great 
 part of the islands lie uncultivated because of 
 this. As a consequence they run into all kinds 
 of excesses. The better class among them especi- 
 ally mechanics, do rise, aud break through every 
 obstruction, considerable numbers of them being 
 very well off and respectable. We were often 
 kept awake until a late hour of the night by these 
 sounds. We concluded if this was considered a 
 fine place for invalids (except the delightful at- 
 mosphere), they must have stronger nerves than 
 ours for such endurance. Until we found this 
 course of things was perpetual, we could but 
 think every night there must be an uprising. It 
 was nothing unusual for us, when we sat down 
 to our meals, to have a serious alarm before we 
 got half through, either from the street or small 
 
 10
 
 106 JOURNAL. 
 
 houses near us. Not unfrequently has myself, or 
 dear husband, left our meals to go and see what 
 was the matter, to remonstrate against their con- 
 duct, and pour oil on the troubled waters. Daily 
 we walked the streets of Frederickstadt, endeav- 
 oring to exert all our influence for the benefit of 
 both whites and colored, holding meetings among 
 them whenever we could procure a building, for 
 the purpose of giving them counsel on morality 
 and industry, and for which they seemed very 
 grateful, saying they would work if they were 
 paid for it; that twenty cents per day would 
 satisfy all their demands, and they could live on 
 that; which was confirmed by an agent on one of 
 the plantations, as well as by many others. 
 
 The land being exceedingly rich and produc- 
 tive, with an ordinary amount of labor, the whole 
 island under cultivation, would pour into the laps 
 of all classes, millions of the staples. They now 
 continually complain of having such small yields 
 from their great plantations, or estates as they 
 call them. " Short crops " is the household lam- 
 entation everywhere; but why? was our oft-re- 
 peated interrogation. When the invariable an- 
 swer was, " The people are idle ; they will not 
 work." We ever had a ready answer, that their
 
 FREDERICKSTADT. 107 
 
 statement had been proved incorrect, as we found 
 they all wished to work, but they expected to be 
 paid for it, which the owners of estates would 
 not do. As a consequence, their land is not half 
 tilled on this island, and that portion which is, 
 but very poorly. Hence the idleness, poverty, 
 and wretchedness of the people, great immorali- 
 ties following in their train. 
 
 We not unfrequently, in our ramblings, made 
 our calculations, what an enormous income would 
 arise from the right kind of culture in charge of 
 men who should enlist all their energies in such 
 an enterprise, making it a company concern, al- 
 lowing each laborer an interest in the laudable 
 engagement, as Horace Greeley once did, and 
 perhaps now does, with his journeymen printers. 
 All then would be equally interested, all anxious 
 to see how much they could accomplish, being 
 ambitious to rise. Such a philanthropic measure 
 would do more towards the elevation of the peo- 
 ple of those islands, both white and colored, than 
 all the missionaries or clergy that have been 
 paid for their services among them for the last 
 two hundred years. The people demand justice, 
 but it is not granted ; and the clergy can only tell
 
 108 JOURNAL. 
 
 them to submit to their degradation in silence; 
 but this they will not do. 
 
 We felt it our duty to labor with the whites, 
 rather than the people of color, relative to the 
 state of society, as well as the impoverished con- 
 dition of that island, and all others we visited ; 
 which we greatly desired might prove useful to 
 them, as the remedy lies almost exclusively with 
 the whites, whose avarice and cupidity are too 
 conspicuous not to speak for itself. It stands 
 out on every hand, seen by each passer-by. The 
 change so much desired, if ever effected, we felt 
 assured must be commenced and entered into by 
 them. 
 
 The weather was very hot at midday, and my 
 weak state would not admit of my being out 
 much at that time. I arose at an early hour, and 
 went over different parts of the town. The col- 
 ored people, of the class before described, had 
 crawled out from their hiding-places, from old 
 dilapidated shanties, cellars, or hovels, of which 
 there is a goodly number. The exhibition daily 
 presented was appalling. Their clothing was a 
 mass of rags, dirty and filthy in every respect ; 
 some of the children in a state of nudity, and most 
 of them but little better off. Their practices in the
 
 DEGRADATION OF THE PEOPLE. 109 
 
 centre of the streets too revolting to set forth, 
 and which often prevented me from inviting my 
 dear husband to walk out with me in the morn- 
 ing. As usual, they were always wrangling and 
 bringing accusations against each other, while I 
 oft used efforts to calm the fury of their tempers, 
 and was sometimes successful. I saw at a short 
 distance, and heard one morning the impreca- 
 tions of a woman to a man in her shanty, who, 
 she said, had stolen some of her little earnings. 
 She rushed out of her wretched abode to call a 
 policeman, the man declaring he was innocent. 
 I begged her to wait a little, and make further 
 investigation, that she might find her mistake. 
 She listened to me, and we heard no more of that 
 case ; she may, however, have stated the case to 
 the police. We were convinced daily, that if the 
 right kind of influence was exerted over this 
 downtrodden class, they might yet be brought 
 out of their degradation, notwithstanding the 
 curse of slavery is upon them as well as the 
 whites. Paying them an equivalent for their 
 labor, and furnishing them with plenty of it, 
 would do much towards a radical change. This 
 is a foul blot on all the inhabitants of those 
 islands, and some are repenting having done so 
 
 10*
 
 110 JOURNAL. 
 
 little to promote the moral condition of the peo- 
 ple. Sordid covetousness, and a determination 
 to force the freed people to work for a pittance, 
 has induced them to import Coolies, to starve out 
 their own native-born citizens. 
 
 We often remarked while on this island, where 
 every facility was at hand for producing all the 
 staples cultivated there, what wonders might be 
 brought about, not only in the state of society, 
 but in accumulation of wealth, if the laborers 
 were paid as they should be. 
 
 We were informed colored people were often 
 decoyed from other islands, to their great chagrin 
 and discomfort, paying them no more than they 
 do their own people, with which they are greatly 
 dissatisfied. This intelligence we had from a 
 man on the plantation where a large number had 
 recently been brought from Barbadoes. He told 
 us all were dissatisfied ; they thought they were 
 going to Demarara, where they would receive 
 better pay, until they arrived at St. Croix. They 
 all meant to return to Barbadoes if possible, say- 
 ing they were decoyed and brought on to that 
 island. 
 
 The costume of the people of color is perfectly 
 grotesque. The dress of the women is a very short 
 petticoat, extending a little below the knees, with
 
 COSTUME. Ill 
 
 a kind of tunic outside, bare ankles, feet without 
 shoes, hair arranged in all manner of ways; those 
 pretty, will wear a gown over the petticoat, tucked 
 up in some curious style, quite knee high, with 
 bare limbs and feet like the first, but with the 
 addition of a Madras handkerchief on their heads. 
 It being a favorite walk on the sea-shore in front 
 of the fort, we oft repaired thither after the rays 
 of a burning tropical sun had sunk in the west, 
 leaving the atmosphere cool and balmy. Here 
 we always found a large number of the class 
 above described, in the kind of costume spoken 
 of; they seemed delighted to make an exhibi- 
 tion before the soldiers, and we thought they 
 were well pleased in their turn, as they soon 
 struck up their music, with which the colored 
 women seemed enchanted, and commenced a 
 kind of dance. 
 
 The grounds around the fort are laid out with 
 considerable taste, and form a pleasant prome- 
 nade for all classes in the cool of the day or even- 
 ing. The beauty of this spot is seldom sur- 
 passed. An inlet is on one side of the fort, ex- 
 tending a considerable distance into the country; 
 it might well be called an arm of the sea. It is a 
 great place for ablutions, and numbers of women
 
 112 JOURNAL. 
 
 may be seen at all hours of the day, standing 
 knee deep in the water washing clothes, not bat- 
 tling them with a stick as when performing the 
 same kind of labor on the shore. After they 
 presume them sufficiently cleansed, they are 
 hung on bushes, of which there is a plentiful 
 supply around this charming spot. A kind of 
 ornamental tree we never saw except on this and 
 other West India islands, is very beautiful ; the 
 leaves are of a living green at all seasons of the 
 year, while immense quantities of pods hang from 
 the trees, something like that of the honey locust, 
 but ten times larger, and beautiful in color, being 
 a rich yellow. There is a great variety of flow- 
 ering trees, but some of those of much beauty, 
 umbrageous, and charming in form, were proven 
 to be so poisonous, that we feared to touch or 
 even walk under them. Beauty, even in its ap- 
 parently mildest form, is not always to be ap- 
 proached in safety. 
 
 The climate is delightful, the temperature rang- 
 ing from seventy to eighty-four degrees ; but fre- 
 quent showers occur, making calculation for clear 
 weather quite uncertain, and preparation for 
 changes always necessary. At this season there is 
 but little fruit, and indeed it is much neglected on
 
 MEETINGS. 113 
 
 tlie island generalty. The East End, or Christian- 
 stadt, is much the largest place, and does most of 
 the business of the island. The Governor resides 
 there, courts are held, and the bank and public 
 buildings mostly are there. It is surrounded on 
 the south by high hills or mountains, on the west 
 by the sea. The surroundings are poor, and the 
 attraction for strangers much less than at Fred- 
 erickstadt. 
 
 24th. First day ; is observed as a day of rest ; 
 some of our boarders went to church. We ob- 
 served the people looked tolerably decent to-day, 
 which bespeaks well of the day, if only to effect 
 a day of clearing up. We held our meeting in 
 the two parlors, which were well filled. The 
 people did not seem to consider that true wor- 
 ship was to be performed in quiet, secret intro- 
 version of soul; they kept unsettled for some 
 time. At length they were called to stillness, as 
 the true preparation for acceptable worship ; then 
 was unfolded the nature of the Gospel in all its 
 essentials. The audience seemed very attentive. 
 The nature of the new birth was clearly ex- 
 plained, and what it would do for all who knew 
 it, and listened to the voice of God in the soul ; 
 it would redeem them from all vice and injus-
 
 114 JOURNAL. 
 
 tice, and teach them to do to others as they would 
 others should do to them ; it would put an end to 
 wars and fighting, and all manner of evil in the 
 world ; make good fathers, good mothers, good 
 sons, and good daughters, and constitute the 
 beginning of that kingdom on earth where dwell- 
 eth righteousness, &c. Also, the duty that de- 
 volved on the strong, to help to bear the infirm- 
 ities of the weak ; exhorting the poor to industry 
 and frugality, and to go out on plantations and till 
 the soil, rather than live in idleness and rags. 
 The meeting closed to satisfaction. 
 
 Desires were expressed for us to hold another 
 meeting, but my health being delicate, my dear 
 husband could not consent, and it was postponed 
 for the present; a very kind townsman offering 
 us his house, when we felt like it.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Beauty of the Koads — Coolies — Bassin, or Christian- 
 stadt — Visit to the Governor. 
 
 22d. We took a carriage for two hours, for 
 which we paid four dollars, and rode to Ham's 
 Bluff, a point of land overlooking the sea; it is 
 about four miles from our home. "We invited 
 the mother of Dr. Shippen, and young Baldwin, 
 an invalid, to go with us, making an agreeable 
 addition to our company. It was a most charm- 
 ing ride, the whole distance on the sea-shore, and 
 like all the other roads on the island, of unpar- 
 alleled beauty and excellence. Indeed, we had 
 never seen such in any country. They are com- 
 posed of white gravel and sand, which seems as 
 hard as flint, while they are smooth as a house- 
 floor ; very broad, with a row of cocoanut palm, 
 or other ornamental trees, on either side. We 
 passed many plantations, or, as they call them, 
 estates, each one having a fancy name ; all culti- 
 vating sugar-cane upon them. Here we saw
 
 116 JOURNAL. 
 
 large numbers of laborers on the plantations, en- 
 gaged, some in cutting, some in planting, and 
 some in digging holes to put out cane. We saw 
 many Coolies engaged at work, whose appearance 
 was very repulsive, being at their work in a state 
 of nudity, with the exception of a piece of cotton 
 cloth, put round the body ; while women as well 
 as men are engaged in labor on the same spot. 
 Their labor appeared to be very hard, especially 
 where they were digging holes for planting. 
 The hoes are very heavy, and they seem to think 
 it needful to raise them above their heads before 
 striking them in the ground, which made the 
 labor much more oppressive. The cane crop 
 this year will be a failure on many estates, owing 
 to the great drought on the island, but we think 
 for want of proper cultivation as well. 
 
 A short distance from the sea rise, for many 
 miles around, a large number of conical hills, 
 forming an amphitheatre of surpassing beauty. 
 They are planted with cane, which is of a vivid 
 green, and are accessible on all sides by terraces 
 formed quite around them. They look splendid 
 in the extreme. We saw large numbers of wo- 
 men and children pulling out the weeds and 
 grass among the cane; many of the women
 
 WOMEN AT LABOR. 117 
 
 bowed with age. The labor on those hills was 
 much harder than where we had seen them at 
 work below. If we happened to be out near 
 nightfall, we saw the aged women coming in 
 with heavy loads of grass, weeds, or sticks, on 
 their backs, which they told us they had been a 
 long distance to gather, and would bring them 
 but three or four cents a bundle in the town. 
 Many of them had large elephanta feet and 
 limbs, swollen very much, resembling an ele- 
 phant's. Our hearts were deeply moved at the 
 sight. They were wretchedly clad, hungry, 
 and destitute of every comfort in life. We, of 
 course, did minister to their necessities, and turn- 
 ed from them with feelings of deep sorrow, in 
 that " Man's inhumanity to man makes countless 
 thousands mourn." 
 
 Next morning, my dear husband received a 
 letter from the judge, requesting an interview. 
 He did so, calling on him at twelve o'clock, and 
 was informed that the Governor had heard there 
 was a lady preaching doctrines on religion, equal 
 rights, politics, and morality, that were setting 
 the people crazy. He desired to know w T ho she 
 was, and what she was preaching, and whether 
 in the open air, or in houses; and requested we 
 
 11
 
 118 JOURNAL. 
 
 would state, in a letter to him, the necessary re- 
 ply, which my husband did, as follows. We then 
 queried whether this request was to place a pro- 
 hibition on our holding any other meeting, and 
 was answered, "Wo ! we might act as we thought 
 best on the subject, — no restriction was imposed." 
 "We then queried whether we had not best sus- 
 pend holding any other meeting until we saw the 
 Governor, which we would do early in the next 
 week, and was answered, " Use your own pleas- 
 ure." Here follows a copy of the letter sent to 
 the judge, which he was to send to the Governor. 
 
 Frederickstadt, 1st mo. 28th, 1864. 
 Kespected Judge : 
 
 It is with pleasure we respond to the request thou hast made. 
 The name of my wife is Kachel Wilson Moore. She has held 
 two meetings only, with thy approval, but none in the open 
 air, as thou suggested would be proper and convenient. Both 
 were held in the parlors at our boarding-house. She is a min- 
 ister of the Society of Friends in Philadelphia, State of Penn- 
 sylvania ; for the evidence of which we have a certificate, 
 signed by a number of Friends of Green Street Monthly Meet- 
 ing, where we belong. Our preachers do not premeditate what 
 they shall say, but speak as they feel impressed by the Holy 
 Spirit. The subjects on which they discourse is to direct man- 
 kind to the gift of God, within themselves, which teaches 
 what is right and what is wrong, agreeably to the Apostolic 
 declaration, "A measure, or manifestation of the Spirit, is
 
 LETTERS FROM HOME. 119 
 
 given to every man to profit withal." In the illustration of this 
 principle of truth, she alluded to the benign laws and happy 
 government that exists here, as we supposed, when our feet 
 first pressed your soil ; and what course, in her opinion, might 
 be adopted, in a social point of view, to benefit every class. 
 We expect to visit Christianstadt, on second day (Monday), 
 next, or one day early in the week, when we will be gratified 
 to call on the Governor, and show him who we are, and of our 
 standing at home ; and in the meantime, I take pleasure in 
 referring to my friend, Adam McCutchin, who is personally 
 acquainted with me. 
 
 Very respectfully, thy friend, 
 
 J. Wilson Moore. 
 
 Second month 1st, 1864. We have received 
 twelve or thirteen letters from our friends at 
 home; the latest date was twelfth month 16th, 
 1863. We hailed the package with much joy, 
 and although we received the intelligence of 
 many dear friends' departure, amongst whom 
 were Samuel Myers, William Parrish, Hannah 
 Jones, William George, J. Bunting, and Charles 
 Shoemaker, yet we also learned of many gratify- 
 ing incidents that were taking place, and that 
 our own concerns were going on satisfactorily. 
 
 We are situated very comfortably, with com- 
 panions of good, sound principles, and kind as- 
 sociates, and spend our time reading, writing, 
 walking about, and in social conversation.
 
 120 JOURNAL. 
 
 The day looks fine. We have taken a carriage, 
 for seven dollars, and are going to Bassin, or 
 Christianstadt, accompanied by Eliza Arestrop. 
 It is upwards of two hours' ride. 
 
 We arrived about eleven o'clock, and went to 
 Charles and Anne Hallison's, granddaughter of 
 Eliza Arestrop, who had invited us previously, 
 when we visited the East End, to come to their 
 house. We were very kindly entertained, and 
 soon joined by her mother, Mary Jane Stackman, 
 and husband, Judge John Stackman, who we 
 found very agreeable persons. They kindly in- 
 vited us to make them a visit. We soon called 
 on our friend Adam McCutchin, who introduced 
 his daughter Kate, and enjoined her to entertain 
 us, should he not be present. We were to call at 
 one o'clock, to visit the Governor. He offered 
 us, in the way of funds, anything we wanted, at 
 the same time told my dear husband he would 
 introduce him to the manager of the bank, if he 
 desired it. They accordingly went to the bank, 
 and made arrangements for an exchange in gold. 
 
 At the time appointed, we called on the Gov- 
 ernor. He told us, but gave it little credit from 
 the first, what he had heard, which was a very 
 incorrect story. After much conversation be-
 
 VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR. 121 
 
 tween us, on the topics of religion and political 
 economy, &c, I asked him whether he wished us 
 not to hold any meetings. He replied, by no means 
 would he restrain us; that we were at liberty to 
 do as we wished; he only thought it would be 
 best not to hold them in the open air, lest an un- 
 governable crowd should get together; that he 
 thought any advice relative to laborers not get- 
 ting sufficient pay for their work might do them 
 more harm than good ; that they lived here un- 
 der different conditions from what they do in 
 the United States, and that the price of labor 
 must be regulated by circumstances. Yet he 
 would not interfere with our entire freedom. He 
 knew no distinction of caste ; all were citizens, 
 and to be treated alike. I asked him if he 
 thought from seven to fifteen cents a day, for 
 labor, could elevate a man in self-respect? To 
 which he replied, he did not. I then asked him 
 if he did not think measures should be taken to 
 bring about a change? To which he assented, 
 but believed it would be a very difficult thing to 
 accomplish, as the owners of lands would not be 
 willing. I replied then, " Their condition is de- 
 plorable," relating many circumstances of the 
 great degradation and want; that there was no 
 11*
 
 122 JOURNAL. 
 
 provision for the sick and aged ; that they were 
 wandering about the streets begging, without 
 any of the comforts of life. To which he re- 
 plied, he knew there was a vast amount of wrong 
 being done on the island, which ought to be 
 righted, but he did not see how it was to be done. 
 I told him it was as plain as the rays of the sun 
 what was to be done. Let the people be well 
 paid for their labor; let them all have literary ad- 
 vantages ; try to elevate them, and lift them out 
 of their degradation ; which would effect a radi- 
 cal change over that island, as well as all the 
 rest. But it was plain to see, he feared his popu- 
 larity, although he seemed a most kind and gen- 
 tlemanly man; very aftable in his manners, and 
 entirely accessible. It seemed, indeed, as if we 
 had access to his heart, and felt the warmth of 
 its genial influence responding to all we advanced 
 as being right. We took leave with the kindest 
 feelings. 
 
 We then went to Adam McCutchin's, and were 
 introduced to another daughter, Jane, older than 
 Kate. They had both been educated at Burling- 
 ton, New Jersey, at Bishop Doane's Institution. 
 
 We then took a ride in Judge Stackman's car- 
 riage, which was kindly brought up for our use,
 
 BASSIN OR CHRISTIANSTADT. 123 
 
 and rode around the town, comparing its situa- 
 tion with the West End, and came to the conclu- 
 sion that the West End was by far the most de- 
 sirable for invalids. The country was richer and 
 finer, walks and rides more beautiful, and a 
 greater variety; streets wider and more airy. 
 Indeed, everything to make a residence desira- 
 ble was vastly more attainable at the West End. 
 
 After a collation at Charles Hallison's, we took 
 our carriage for the West End, one hour after the 
 time ordered, but we had not progressed over a 
 mile out of town before a wheel became fastened, 
 and we had to return to town and get it fixed, 
 which could not be effected before the morninar. 
 It being too far for Eliza and myself to walk to 
 the Judge's, and Eliza having a cousin, Francis 
 Armstrong, and Augusta, his wife, near by, con- 
 cluded to go there, and tell of our dilemma. 
 They kindly offered us every accommodation we 
 desired, and Ave spent a very agreeable evening, 
 and had a refreshing sleep under their hospita- 
 ble roof. After a breakfast at eight o'clock, our 
 carriage being ready, we again started at nine 
 o'clock for home, which we reached at eleven 
 o'clock A. M. 
 
 The road is magnificent, is called the King's
 
 124 JOURNAL. 
 
 highway, and is macadamized, and smooth as a 
 floor. This road is fifteen miles in length, or 
 rather is a splendid street, with a row of palm or 
 cocoanut trees on each side, except occasionally 
 a little break. It winds around the mountains, 
 and the drive is charming. Sugar-cane planta- 
 tions are continually in sight, and gangs of labor- 
 ers at work. As we passed along, our thoughts 
 were often turned to the multiplied blessings 
 showered on this as well as the other islands by 
 the great and good Father; but how poor the 
 returns ! We were informed by an agent that 
 many plantations are thrown out for want of 
 laborers, and property is much depreciated since 
 emancipation. 
 
 Third month, 1st. — We are to lose our friends 
 the Shippens, as they have taken board at Eliza- 
 beth Brady's. We are sorry to part with them; 
 they are very agreeable companions. Their 
 place is supplied by Dr. Henderson and wife, of 
 Springfield, JSTew Jersey. He came on account 
 of a bronchial difficulty. 
 
 We took a ride in a carriage we hired for one 
 dollar and twenty-five cents. The horse is one 
 of those poor little creatures that requires the con- 
 stant application of a whip. We rebelled against
 
 DRIVES. 125 
 
 such an animal, and the owner promised us a 
 better one in future. 
 
 Second month, 4th, 1864.— This is the fifth 
 of the week, and the day has been passed in 
 dressmaking, as the weather is warm, and my 
 clothing on hand not at all suitable for this tem- 
 perature. The thermometer now stands seventy- 
 six degrees, and windy. 
 
 We saw large fields of sugar-cane in the val- 
 leys, and grass and shrubbery covering the moun- 
 tain-tops. The ride was beautiful, and scenery 
 romantic, fine mansions on every plantation, with 
 their small cabins and sugar-house, and other 
 buildings for preparing the sugar for market. 
 Since the emancipation, in 1848, many laborers 
 have left the plantations, and congregated in the 
 town, constituting a population of poverty, dis- 
 tress, and wretchedness.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Schools — Sugar Grinding — Drives — Visits to Planta- 
 tions — Mount Washington — Mount Victory — Har- 
 bor of Frederickstadt — Streets — Markets — Birds — 
 Game. 
 
 There are a few schools on the island, that were 
 instituted long before emancipation, where chil- 
 dren of all classes, without distinction of color, 
 may attend school for a limited time. One of the 
 teachers told us that few of them could read or 
 write so that it could be understood when they 
 left the school, which is at an early age. We also 
 visited some paying-schools, where white and 
 colored attend. The sum demanded for schooling 
 is not large ; if it were, the parents would not be 
 able to pay it. Neither of the requisites, books, 
 paper, or anything else, is furnished them. I 
 think I counted as many as eight or ten looking 
 over one old torn book ; they of course make but 
 little advance. On leaving them we felt it right 
 to give them means to procure books, and had a
 
 RELIGIOUS MEETINGS. 127 
 
 very satisfactory opportunity with a large number 
 of scholars. 
 
 Marriages take place between whites and na- 
 tives, and although there exists a feeling of aris- 
 tocracy with some, yet we think caste is fast pass- 
 ing away. 
 
 We passed by Negro Bay Estate, which former- 
 ly belonged to the Titcun family ; also, Beck's 
 Grove, on which Sallie Irving's money is placed, 
 of which my dear husband long had the charge, 
 being her trustee. 
 
 Second month, 7th. — We have applied to the 
 Moravian minister here to let us use his school- 
 house on first day afternoon, to hold a meeting, 
 but he did not seem willing, excusing himself 
 by informing us he had not heard from the su- 
 perintendent, who had charge of such things. 
 We held a meeting in the parlors of Eliza Are- 
 strop this evening, when quite a respectable con- 
 gregation assembled at seven and a half o'clock. 
 The subject of silent worship was brought into 
 view, and the meeting ended well. 
 
 Second and third days spent in answering let- 
 ters. The wind is high, thermometer at noon 
 eighty-one degrees ; only seven degrees between 
 the thermometer in the shade and that in the
 
 128 JOURNAL. 
 
 sun, and even where the sun is very oppressive, 
 I have not discovered more than ten to twelve 
 degrees difference. 
 
 10th. It blew and rained hard in the night. 
 Thermometer seventy degrees; at noon eighty, 
 and in the sun ninety. We find the thermome- 
 ter in shade and sun varies at the same time of 
 day from ten to twelve degrees ; whilst exceed- 
 ingly oppressive in the sun, it will be comfortable 
 in the shade, owing to the breezes that prevail 
 east and southeast. 
 
 We visited this morning, at ten o'clock, the 
 sugar-grinding on the estate called the Two 
 
 Brothers, belonging to . They grind by 
 
 a windmill, with two large upright cylinders, 
 about eighteen inches in diameter, and three feet 
 high. They throw in an armful of cane at a 
 time; it is crushed, and the juice flows into a 
 trough, and is conveyed by a conductor into the 
 boiling-house into large boilers containing two 
 hundred and fifty gallons each, four of which 
 when boiled makes about one hogshead of sugar. 
 The scum or refuse is put into large vats with 
 water, and afterwards finally made into rum. 
 The sugar, when boiled, is put into coolers, 
 where it granulates ; the stalks are taken to a
 
 SUGAR-BOILING. 129 
 
 shed, and used as fuel to boil the sugar. We 
 were of the opinion that the stalks, if put into 
 vats and steeped in water, would impregnate 
 the water sufficiently to make vinegar, after which 
 the cane could be used for fuel. The manager 
 told us they never did that. 
 
 Our ride yesterday afternoon, one hour and 
 a quarter, was by La Grange and Prosperity, 
 through a valley, and along a stream of water to 
 Oxford, about five miles and back. All the es- 
 tates we passed had the appearance of decay. 
 
 11th. In a conversation that took place with 
 R. G. Knight, a friend of Henderson's, a planter 
 of wealth and influence, we were informed that 
 there was a legislative council on that island, and 
 they had the power to legislate for themselves, 
 and that the members were elected every three 
 years, and that all who paid their taxes, and pos- 
 sessed a certain amount of property, had the 
 right of franchise, without distinction of color; 
 that Bassin had five electors, three of whom were 
 colored, elected about two weeks since; West 
 End had three electors. That a distinction of 
 color did exist to a certain extent, particularly 
 between the English ; the Danes made no differ- 
 ence ; they married and intermarried, and thought 
 
 12
 
 130 JOUKNAL. 
 
 it all right. We were talking with one of the elec- 
 tors of the "West End, and asked him in his own 
 case would he associate with one of his colored 
 colleagues in a social capacity? He answered 
 that he had not, but did not say he would not. 
 He stated that Governor Sharston had tried 
 to do away caste, but had failed in his efforts, 
 though they mixed in all business affairs, in 
 meetings, &c. 
 
 On the sixteenth, we held a meeting at the 
 house of the gentleman (a Creole) who some time 
 previous had extended an invitation to us. It 
 was well attended and satisfactory. The end of 
 man's creation, and his duty to our beneficent 
 Creator, and to each other, were brought into 
 view, and it ended well, in which all honor and 
 praise is due to the Author of all good. 
 
 On the thirteenth, we had taken a lovely ride 
 to Mount Washington, then up the mountain to 
 an estate called Prosperity, a most sequestered 
 spot. The prospect could not be surpassed in 
 beauty, only the grounds suffered for want of 
 proper cultivation. 
 
 On the seventeenth, we informed E. Arestrop, 
 our hostess, that as several of our friends had 
 gone to take lodgings with E, Brady, we thought
 
 DECAY OF ESTATES. 131 
 
 we should like to be with them, which we af- 
 terward regretted, as E. Brady's house became 
 greatly crowded, and we had plenty of room and 
 pretty comfortable fare at E. Arestrop's. Soon 
 after this we received letters from our friends. 
 None can realize the pleasure it affords, save 
 those who are far away from friends and kindred, 
 in a laud of strangers. 
 
 Second month, 19th. — To-day we rode out to 
 an estate called Hannah's Rest, where were some 
 of my dear husband's friends boarding. All the 
 estates are going down, and the once costly man- 
 sions decay for want of care as well as cultiva- 
 tion, while twenty cents per day for labor would 
 make all to blossom as the rose, and yield an 
 hundred-fold. "We were told ofttimes that no 
 freemen, emancipated as they are, were allowed 
 to hire or purchase an acre of land to show what 
 free labor and industry could do ; and the same 
 statement was confirmed by a merchant at St. 
 Thomas, saying at the same time the Islanders 
 would never consent to that. I queried with him 
 to know if that was justice; he did not care to 
 answer, and soon took leave, after our giving our 
 views on the subject without reserve. 
 
 To-day, three o'clock, some of our friends from
 
 132 JOURNAL. 
 
 Bassin called on us, and we enjoyed the inter- 
 view much, as well as the visitors. Oh ! how 
 watchful we should be, both in going out and 
 coming in before the people. We require our 
 faith and patience oft renewed in the arm of Om- 
 nipotence. Oh ! for a closer " walk with God." 
 
 On the twentieth, our hearts more buoyant, for 
 which we feel thankful. We rose early this 
 morn, to take a walk out, and saw wretchedness 
 in all its horrors ; many begging us for a penny ; 
 others for a stiver, saying, "We are starving;" 
 some showing us their elephantic feet and limbs, 
 swollen to a dreadful extent, not unfrequently 
 with sores upon them resembling cancers. It 
 must have been a hard heart to turn from such 
 objects of pity, without relieving them for the 
 time being, at least. This was of every-day oc- 
 currence, if we walked out. Another distressing 
 feature presented at all times in the streets, and 
 not unfrequently at our boarding-places, was 
 young colored girls with white infants, or chil- 
 dren that could walk and talk. On my asking if 
 they were married, the answer was always in 
 the negative. " To whom, then, do these children 
 belong?" The return was quick as thought, 
 " To such a gentleman down town, on a planta-
 
 NEGRO DEGRADATION. 133 
 
 tion, gone to Denmark, England," or somewhere 
 else. Some of them, whose children could talk, 
 would say to the poor child of shame, " Tell this 
 lady and gentleman your papa's name," which 
 prudence forbids our giving. Now, this is no 
 sham ; but may be seen at all hours of the day. 
 On one of those walks we saw a terrible piece of 
 deformity, with one little being by the hand, and 
 another in her arms. On coming up to her I 
 thought how cruel the white woman was that 
 gave her such a charge, as it looked as if she 
 would have hard work to take care of herself. It 
 had been raining, and she was draggled to the 
 knees. I inquired whose children they were. 
 " Mine, madam," was the answer. "Art thou mar- 
 ried?" I asked. She replied, "No, ma'am; their 
 father," so and so. "We came to the conclusion, 
 after seeing that woman, the lowest could find a 
 mate. "What are we to think of the state of so- 
 ciety where such enormities prevail everywhere? 
 It caused our spirits to die within us at what we 
 saw and heard. Marriages, we were told, seldom 
 occur among any class, while the streets are lined 
 with children. This is much the case on all the 
 islands, — being the direful result of slavery, and 
 like our Southern planters, the whites disapprove 
 12*
 
 134 JOURNAL. 
 
 of amalgamation. We even told them we should 
 like to see precept and example agree better than 
 it did there. It is a remarkable fact that the chil- 
 dren of a white father, as far as our observation 
 went, are generally white, or nearly so ; but when 
 the mother is white and father colored, the chil- 
 dren generally are very dark. Now, we gave no 
 counsel as to union between the races, viewing it 
 as a matter of taste ; if an honorable marriage 
 takes place, we felt we had no business with the 
 subject; but did feel if girls of color were suited 
 for the mates of white men, they were suited for 
 their brides as well ; and he must be one of the 
 low and degraded of the earth who could act 
 otherwise. Now, I know this will be termed in- 
 delicate to treat on this subject at such length, 
 but how are we to find a remedy, save in out- 
 spoken truths? 
 
 We rode out every day to different estates, and 
 once called on an overseer, a Dane, who, with his 
 wife, gave us much useful information relative to 
 what could be done, would the owners pay twen- 
 ty cents per day. They do not like the Coolies. 
 He told us great difficulty was created by com- 
 pelling the laborers to remain such a length of 
 time on certain plantations, saying, "They should
 
 SCHOOLS. 135 
 
 be well paid, and never detained against their 
 will." He spoke of the schools as of but little 
 account. Children may attend them until ten 
 years of age, but gave the same version of their 
 acquirements as others had done, that few, when 
 they left school, could read or write ; so they are 
 growing up in ignorance as well as bad habits. 
 He told us people would have more self-respect 
 if educated; that most who came there from 
 Barbadoes could read and write. 
 
 21st. First day. I attended a Swedenborgian 
 meeting. They are a little company, the master 
 of which was the kind man who invited us to 
 hold a meeting in his commodious parlor, when 
 we could obtain a place nowhere else. I felt it a 
 duty, and gave them, at the close, some suitable 
 counsel, which was kindly received. We have 
 ardently desired to attend strictly to the point- 
 ings of truth, long having felt a strong desire to 
 visit these islands; but was so ill when leaving 
 home, I did not expect to attend one meeting, 
 only as way has opened for it in the truth. As 
 the people made the appointments, in every in- 
 stance, we attended them, to the peace of our 
 own minds, and, we trust, the counsel left with all 
 classes will not be forgotten, but like "bread cast
 
 136 JOURNAL. 
 
 on the waters, will be found after many days." 
 Our abolition views and feelings were repulsive 
 to some; while to others nothing could have 
 been more encouraging. 
 
 Yesterday, twenty-third, spent some time writ- 
 ing our friends, and the day following took a 
 ride to Mount Victory, but our horse did not 
 prove adequate to the trip, and we had to return. 
 This island exceeds all others for charming walks 
 and drives, leaving out the sad sights seen in all 
 directions; of poor old bowed men and women 
 returning from work, with heavy loads of grass, 
 or little sticks, from some far-off spot in the in- 
 terior, where they had been procured by hard 
 labor, for which three, or at most, four cents, are 
 all they get for them. It is against the law for a 
 slave to cut a stick large enough for a cane, or 
 to pull a bunch of grass. We often saw them 
 gathering sticks and thorns to cook their meals 
 with, and we were told they made soup from the 
 wild cactus, which is abundant on the islands. 
 The natives told us their having been compelled 
 to go so much among them with their bare feet, 
 had produced elephantiasis in their feet and 
 limbs, although my dear husband said there was 
 another cause.
 
 SEA-SHORE. 137 
 
 We have now been mostly in our chamber for 
 several days; the wind having been southeast, 
 quite cool, and a great draught in our room, we 
 find it quite uncomfortable. Towards evening we 
 went on the plaza, for a short time, but found it 
 too cool, and soon after had cough and pain in 
 the side, but after using the restoratives pre- 
 scribed by my dear husband, I began to improve, 
 and it was not long before I was nearly as well as 
 ever, as the weather changed and became mild. 
 We often rambled on the sea-shore, and gathered 
 shells and other curiosities. We brought a large 
 quantity with us to the United States, which, with 
 many West India fruits preserved in glass jars, 
 have been highly interesting to our friends and 
 others who have visited us. 
 
 We have some of our friends here from St. 
 Thomas, on whom we called to-day. 
 
 29th. We took a ride along the sea about five 
 miles. The road is much as if prepared for cars 
 to run on, — so smooth and level ; trees of various 
 kinds, very beautiful. What a sad reflection, 
 that where our good Father has scattered His 
 blessings with so liberal a hand, that all should 
 have been prostituted to the curse of slavery! 
 On our way back we passed many graves, near
 
 138 JOURNAL. 
 
 the bank, along the sea-shore. We could scarcely 
 conjecture why the inhabitants chose that spot, 
 but were told the graves were made there before 
 they began to have grounds appropriated for that 
 purpose only. Some of them had an air of gran- 
 deur, with splendid ornamental trees waving over 
 them. Some said families find rest there, but it 
 seemed to us of little importance any way. We 
 visited an estate at La Grange, on our return from 
 Ham's Bluff", where sugar-making was going on ; 
 but it has been described, and needs no further 
 comment. The syrup is called "sling," and is 
 used in the place of butter. 
 
 The day is fine; thermometer from seventy- 
 five to eighty. We now begin to long for the 
 comforts of home. Near this time a fellow-com- 
 panion arrived from New York, who appeared in 
 the last stage of consumption, son of J. Shotwell. 
 He remained with us while we stayed on the 
 island, and after we left took passage for New 
 York, in company with Dr. Henderson and wife, 
 from New Jersey, but died on the passage home. 
 His remains were, however, not committed to 
 the watery elements, as is generally the case, but 
 carried into his native city, where his friends 
 could have the sad satisfaction of seeing the life-
 
 MOUNT VICTORY. 139 
 
 less remains deposited in the home of his child- 
 hood, before laying it away in one of the silent 
 halls of death. lie was an interesting young 
 man, and gained the love and good-will of all 
 who knew him. Such is human life; "in the 
 morning the flower flourisheth, and groweth up; 
 in the evening it is cut down and withereth." 
 
 "We have held two meetings at the house of 
 Elizabeth Brady, our hostess, a very kind woman. 
 
 Third month, 8th. We took another ride to 
 Mount Victory, and were highly delighted with 
 the beautiful scenery. The cone-like hills rising 
 in the distance, covered with rich foliage, gave 
 them a splendid appearance. The horses here 
 are small and poorly kept, but sometimes they 
 become quite unmanageable, as we proved more 
 than once, — coming near losing our lives, as we 
 were riding out, on two occasions ; we were only 
 saved after the horse had run for a considerable 
 distance, and seemed bent on diving into the sea. 
 By means few would have thought of, my dear 
 husband succeeded in changing his course, and 
 ran him into a stack of sugar-cane stalks, which 
 some laborers and the proprietor seeing, ran to 
 our assistance and saved our lives. We after-
 
 140 JOURNAL. 
 
 ward had another narrow escape, but not so 
 alarming as the first. 
 
 As we rode along, we passed fields of sugar- 
 cane, reaching, in many places, the very summit 
 of the hills, six to seven hundred feet above the 
 ocean. Along this enchanting road we travel on. 
 Leaving Sprat's Hall on the left, we ascend a 
 long winding hill to Mount Victory. The estate 
 is owned by William Moore, and is the country 
 residence of his family in the summer. The 
 mansion is placed in a valley, surrounded by 
 high hills, on which you look from every quarter, 
 covered with sugar-cane, or planted in grass. 
 Leaving this estate, we passed Rose Hill, on 
 which a windmill is situated, on a little peak of 
 a mountain ; and passing by, we soon came on 
 the Annaly Estate, which is large, and sold not 
 long since for forty thousand dollars. Here we 
 turn short to the right, and pass around a cooper- 
 shop, and take the Mahogany Road, by another 
 estate of William Moore, called Oxford, and 
 managed by McGivan, who treated us kindly. 
 He said Moore owned twelve estates on the 
 island, and makes about three thousand hogs- 
 heads of sugar annually from the estates. We 
 here have a fine view of the sea and lagoon, with
 
 TREES. 141 
 
 numerous spurs of hills interlocking each other, 
 rising one above the other, presenting a variety of 
 separate mounds, beautifully cultivated with cane, 
 or fields of grass, on which cattle and sheep and 
 mules graze in great numbers. The road is ser- 
 pentine, and descends for miles on a gentle slope, 
 and shaded with filbert trees, sapodillas, and 
 tamarinds, and several other trees of the forest. 
 Near this spot, a man of color procured a cocoa- 
 nut flower, very beautiful, which I preserved, and 
 now have in my home; also the bread fruits, and 
 many others. After leaving this beautiful land- 
 scape, we pass along Jolly Hill and La Grange, 
 owned by Colonel Logans, and coming in by the 
 seaside, we took the left to Frederickstadt, one 
 mile. 
 
 Third month, 14th. — Nothing has occurred of 
 sufficient importance to note since last date. I 
 now resume my journal by stating that we have, 
 within the last week, sent off many letters by 
 G. W. Smith and J. Milligan, who expect to be, 
 by first of fourth month, in ISTew York. 
 
 Frederickstadt is situated on the east margin 
 of the sea; its harbor is protected by Ham's 
 Bluff on the north, and a point of land projecting 
 into the sea on the south, on which is a lagoon of 
 
 13
 
 142 JOURNAL. 
 
 two miles in extent, without any apparent inlet 
 or outlet into the sea; the water is soft and looks 
 muddy, forming a white foam, like soapsuds, as 
 it flows toward the shore. This neck of land is 
 overgrown with all kinds of shrubbery. The 
 bay is as placid as a river, except when west- 
 wardly winds prevail ; it then becomes rough and 
 insecure. There are three schooners that trade 
 regularly between this place and St. Thomas ; 
 they are the West End Packet, Captain James ; 
 the Maggie, Captain Watlington ; and Starlight, 
 Captain Golder; of which there is little choice, 
 — our party preferring one, another party the 
 other, and so on. 
 
 The buildings are constructed with stone base- 
 ments, and frame dwellings above, having large 
 windows, chiefly without sashes or glass. Some 
 have Venitian blinds, others close shutters, to keep 
 out the storms. The houses are mostly white- 
 washed. The streets run at right angles. We oc- 
 cupy a house fronting a flower garden above Bay 
 Street. The market is near, but very poor, either 
 for meats, vegetables, or fruits. The poorest 
 meats we ever saw are offered in these markets. 
 Poultry does not appear to have been fattened at 
 all. Vegetables and fruits scarce, and of the
 
 DECAY OF ESTATES. 143 
 
 most inferior quality, orange groves having been 
 cut down, as we were told, to prevent the laborers 
 from selling them. As an evidence, one of our 
 boarders, being an invalid, passing some orange 
 trees on a plantation, inquired of a colored man 
 near if he could have half a dozen of those 
 oranges. After receiving them he gave the man 
 fifty cents ; the owner heard of it and took the 
 amount off the man's wages, nearly covering the 
 labor of a week. 
 
 This state of things, and want of supplies, is 
 attributed to emancipation. We told them it 
 was deeper than that, — the system of slavery be- 
 fore emancipation, and now in its second advent. 
 
 The old inhabitants had lived extravagantly, 
 and involved themselves in debt, from which 
 they were unable to extricate themselves. Many 
 of them dying, their estates were sold, and be- 
 came the property of foreign creditors, and were 
 given over to attorneys and managers. It being 
 no longer desirable to keep up those costly man- 
 sions, all that could be gleaned was sent away to 
 remunerate the proprietors ; the consequence is, 
 the estates are going down, owners are weary of 
 them, throw them into market, and they are 
 purchased by the attorneys and managers, many 
 of them Irish, who cannot afford to make the
 
 144 JOURNAL. 
 
 necessary outlay to restore them to their former 
 beauty. We believe the time will come when 
 every man, irrespective of color, will occupy his 
 own estate, and sit under his vine and fig tree, 
 where none can make him afraid. 
 
 Birds are very scarce on this island ; no deer, 
 squirrels, rabbits, or game of any description, ex- 
 cept a few quails. We are more convinced every 
 day that it will require a great length of time to 
 bring this people out of their degradation. 
 
 Third month, 28th, second day morning. — The 
 weather is boisterous and stormy, and the wind 
 blows tremendously; wind east-southeast. This 
 is a holiday. A party came from St. Thomas to 
 enjoy a festival, or picnic. The rain must have 
 interfered considerably with their hilarity, not- 
 withstanding it was to take place on Prospect 
 Estate. We visited Edward Hart and wife, from 
 New York, last night, who have taken board 
 with the Widow Foster. It seemed quite home- 
 like to mingle with people from my native State. 
 We met with a gentleman there who had ex- 
 plored the cave on the estate of Elizabeth Brady. 
 It was found to contain several different apart- 
 ments, and the ceilings were covered with forma- 
 tions of coral of a very curious variety. We 
 brought home some specimens with us.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Departure — St. Thomas — Trip to Barbadoes. 
 
 Third month, 30th, 1864. — Feeling as if our 
 time was nigh at hand for leaving the island, the 
 object for which we were induced to come being, 
 as far as appearances indicate, pretty well estab- 
 lished, we left this beautiful island in the morn- 
 ing, about eleven o'clock, without much regret, 
 in the schooner Maggie, under the command of 
 Captain Watlington, for St. Thomas. We were 
 seven hours and forty minutes performing the 
 trip. 
 
 I felt gratified at the prospect of paying visits 
 to other islands, but on leaving this could use 
 the words of Cowper : " With all thy faults I 
 love thee still." So charmingly beautiful, the 
 day so calm, so lovely, and so bright, seemed 
 like "the bridal of the earth and sky." "We re- 
 mained on the deck of our little vessel until I 
 
 13*
 
 146 JOURNAL. 
 
 became seasick, but recovered towards evening 
 to see the silver orbed moon and brilliant stars 
 walk forth in their beauty. I had watched the 
 broad hills we had left, until nothing but the 
 gray outlines remained, overhung with fleecy 
 clouds, tinged with purple and gold ; and now, 
 in the shadows of evening, we disembarked from 
 our little boat, and were again on soil our feet 
 had pressed before. All seemed glad to see us 
 with whom we had formed acquaintance. On 
 repairing to our hotel found it full, and we 
 sought a resting-place at one nigh at hand, for a 
 short time, waiting for the arrival of an English 
 steamer to take us to Barbadoes. We had left 
 most of our baggage in care of the housekeeper 
 of our hotel before we left this island. "We now 
 gathered all together, not expecting to make 
 another stop there. We added some more fine 
 specimens of coral to our already accumulated 
 stock, and put all in order, ready for our trip to 
 Barbadoes. I must not omit saying that we were 
 pleased with our accommodations at the latter 
 hotel, kept by an Englishman named Bonelli, the 
 fare good and house well kept. 
 
 I omitted stating the day before our departure 
 the Episcopal minister made a formal call on us.
 
 SUGGESTIONS. 147 
 
 He appeared a kind, affable, and agreeable man. 
 We had much conversation together on various 
 subjects, all calculated, we hope, to make a good 
 impression. Before we parted I told him there 
 was one thing I wished to enjoin upon him, and 
 as he was a professed minister of the Gospel, I 
 thought he must feel the force of the proposition, 
 which was the great importance of holding lec- 
 tures every evening during the week for the ad- 
 vancement of moral culture. We had travelled 
 much in the United States, Europe, and many 
 other places, but in all our lives before, condens- 
 ing the whole of the immoralities we had ever 
 seen, they would poorly compare with the Danish 
 Islands, especially St. Croix, adding, " Would it 
 not be a feasible measure, as well as greatly to 
 the improvement of all classes, to assemble with 
 the better class of people on the island, and 
 make this proposition, setting forth how the. 
 immoralities looked to the people visiting their 
 island." His answer was, "Madam, if you will 
 find out the better class, and let me know, I will 
 try to do it; I should not know where to find 
 them. I have been here so long," naming the 
 time, " but I do not think I shall remain much 
 longer." I believe I rightly remember his words,
 
 148 JOURNAL. 
 
 which, I think, was responded to by one of the 
 Islanders. Notwithstanding, there had been one 
 hundred members confirmed by a bishop from 
 Barbadoes, some two weeks previous, in the same 
 church in which he presided. 
 
 The English steamer expected to-night, fourth 
 month, 2d. The steamer Shannon arrived last 
 night, and fired her salute-gun at six o'clock. 
 
 Fourth month, 3d. This morning my dear hus- 
 band went on board the Thames to take our 
 state-rooms for Barbadoes. The steward told 
 him he could not give us a state-room until the 
 passengers of the Shannon were accommodated, 
 on account of its being another English steamer. 
 
 At nine o'clock next morning, the Thames fired 
 her signal-gun, and the passengers understood 
 that in one hour she would sail. We went on 
 board at once, and took a state-room outside, and 
 near the ladies' drawing-room ; it was small, but 
 cool, and we got on very well. About ten o'clock 
 a.m., we weighed anchor and left the port of St. 
 Thomas for Barbadoes. The day was fine ; sea 
 calm; wind ahead, making the atmosphere de- 
 lightful and cool. Passed St. John's, and the 
 Sugar-loaf Rock, that stands elevated and alone 
 in the sea, St. John's, Tortola, and St. Croix,
 
 CARIBEE ISLANDS. 149 
 
 not far distant, whose beautiful mountain-peaks 
 kept in sight until about four o'clock, when the 
 mist that hung over them closed them from our 
 view. 
 
 These Caribee Islands are of great beauty, 
 and are covered with verdure; all accounts well 
 correspond as to their productiveness and fertil- 
 ity. It is wonderful to see so many of them, in 
 the midst of the sea, but fit habitations for man. 
 "What blessings are scattered around us every- 
 where ! as every clime has its multiplied advan- 
 tages. These islands may well be called "gems 
 of the ocean," — so fraught with beauty and love- 
 liness. "We remained on deck as long as our eyes 
 felt like watching the surging waves of the broad 
 ocean. The stars looked down upon us in silent 
 grandeur, telling mysterious tales of spheres equal 
 as well as far more wonderful and magnificent 
 than our own; proclaiming with silent though 
 imposing eloquence the same Almighty Power 
 that made us what we are; made mankind as well, 
 each to perform a special mission, while harmony 
 was the crown of all; the latter with capacities of 
 mind for penetrating into the vast expanse of the 
 solar system. Through science, worlds and sys- 
 tems of worlds have, of latter time, been brought
 
 150 JOURNAL. 
 
 into view, unknown to man, save by tlie wonder- 
 ful power of genius furnished by their Great 
 Original. The astronomer points his telescope 
 to the heavens, and penetrates the fields of blue 
 ether, revealing to man the wonders of other 
 worlds ; though " no larger in appearance than 
 the diamond that glitters on a lady's ring, it is 
 really a mighty globe." We indulged in these 
 reflections until the time for rest called us to 
 our state-room, where all looked very comforta- 
 ble for shipboard. We committed ourselves to 
 " tired nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep," after 
 looking over in what manner we had spent the 
 day just gone from us; ever bearing in mind the 
 importance of doing the work of each day, as it 
 passes, that " no follies we may have to lament," 
 or that " we have lost a day." 
 
 We arose next morning before day, in order to 
 see the sun rise. It is a sublime sight to see the 
 sun rise, or set, at sea, appearing as if it rose out 
 of, or set in, the ocean's broad bosom. The sur- 
 rounding scenery is beautiful. 
 
 A nice warm breakfast, and then to our writ- 
 ing quietly on deck, where we saw much that 
 was interesting. 
 
 Our passengers were about thirty in number,
 
 ST. kitt's. 151 
 
 chiefly Islanders and English, and were mostly 
 Southern sympathizers. "We got along very well, 
 and enjoyed the trip much; our gentlemanly 
 captain, a most affable and agreeable person, 
 adding to our comfort, whose kindness we never 
 can forget. 
 
 The morning of the sixth brought us opposite 
 the harbor of St. Kitt's, or St. Christopher's, so 
 called by some. The country looked mountain- 
 ous, with beautiful lowland skirting the margin 
 of the sea. It was cultivated with sugar-cane ; 
 and deep green foliage was seen from the gorges. 
 Small cottages were numerously placed on vari- 
 ous estates, for the accommodation of laborers, 
 but we saw no splendid establishments for the 
 aristocracy. 
 
 We anchored about six and a half o'clock, oppo- 
 site the town of Basitar, where a number of pas- 
 sengers were added to our list, amongst whom 
 was the Archbishop Gibbs, of the Episcopal 
 Church, going to visit some of his parishes. He 
 looked like a genteel English Friend, dressing 
 in a plain frock coat, large hat, white cravat, 
 &c. Here we procured some grapes, that were 
 brought on board by colored men. They were 
 not quite ripe, but answered better than nothing.
 
 152 JOURNAL. 
 
 The Bishop informed us that St. Kitt's was one of 
 the most fertile and productive of the British 
 Islands; that their treasury was full; and that 
 their laborers were paid from ten cents to one 
 shilling a day. The fields looked green and 
 beautiful, and the hilltops were clothed with ver- 
 dure to their summits. The town is small, and 
 wore the appearance of age and neglect; the 
 architecture much the same as at St. Croix. 
 
 We passed the Island of Nevis, which is sepa- 
 rated by a strait of about one mile wide. It 
 resembles St. Kitt's in appearance; mountain 
 rising above mountain ; one overtopping all the 
 rest, hiding the peak from our view. Passing 
 these beautiful works of the Great Creator, our 
 admiration was not merely confined thereto, but 
 often had we to look from Nature's works to Na- 
 ture's God. We passed another solitary rock in 
 the sea, projecting sixty or one hundred feet 
 above the water. Not far distant was the Island 
 of Monserrat, which we passed without stopping. 
 It presented to our view a conglomeration of 
 rocks, rising into mountains, with occasional 
 peaks, covered with shrubbery. We saw very 
 little cultivation, but were told a few estates were 
 cultivated on it. It is here Joseph Sturge had
 
 ANTIGUA. 153 
 
 estates, a celebrated English philanthropist. We 
 were told one of his heirs had lately been on a 
 visit to them. Off this island we saw a shoal of 
 whales, and were informed that several vessels 
 had been employed in the trade from one of the 
 islands. 
 
 About three o'clock, we anchored in the har- 
 bor of Antigua, called English Harbor. It is a 
 small harbor, but well protected from storms. 
 There is no town here ; merely a landing-place, 
 and machine shops, and barracks for soldiers. 
 As we passed along the coast we saw very little 
 culture; a ridge of hills extending along the 
 island, some distance from the coast, behind 
 which, we were informed, some few estates lie. 
 We passed Guadaloupe about twelve o'clock at 
 night, without having any opportunity of see- 
 ing what it was like. Here we left the mail at 
 Point-a-Pitre. 
 
 Moonlight over these islands adds greatly to 
 the interest as we pass onward. Sitting on the 
 deck of our noble steamer, with shadows resting 
 on both land and sea, the sight was often too 
 grand to tempt us to go below, so that we sat in 
 the moonlight until a late hour at night ; some- 
 times in contemplation, or prayerfully desiring 
 
 14
 
 154 JOURNAL. 
 
 that we might be led about and instructed 
 by Him who knows what is best for us; who 
 will direct all our steps, as we look to Him as our 
 polar star. The seed of Divine life has been 
 planted in the Eden of every soul. " We have 
 all been without sin there, until iniquity has been 
 found in us." It is taking the government in 
 our own hands, that has driven so many out of 
 Eden! For although the seed sown may not 
 vegetate early and bear fruit, if it is not trodden 
 down and crushed, the sunlight of truth will 
 ripen it into a full development of its power, — 
 evincing that it is " world-wide, as well as world- 
 old, in its growth," and even beyond; as "before 
 the mountains were brought forth, or the hills 
 were formed," this same principle, or heavenly 
 seed, was with the divine Eternal One, as cer- 
 tainly as the day and time in which we live. My 
 contemplations often wandered off in this direc- 
 tion, as I mused in the moonlight, on the "beau- 
 tiful sea," beside the object of my happiest 
 earthly hopes ; but, alas, now no more beside me, 
 but encircled in the icy arms of death. Severe 
 has been the blow, although directed in wisdom ; 
 but well do I know Thou only, oh Lord, canst 
 healing bring ! Thou only can calm the troubled
 
 DOMINICA. 155 
 
 spirit! and cause my poor soul to cling closer to 
 Thee, in entire resignation and holy confidence, 
 " that Thou doest all things well." 
 
 At five and a half o'clock came to the Island of 
 Dominica, another French island, which, like its 
 fellow, presents a ridge of hills with barren tops. 
 A plantation without improvements was accident- 
 ally seen along the coast. We left the mail at the 
 town at Prince Rupert, which lies under high 
 hills of irregular formation. There a number of 
 boatmen came alongside with fruit, as oranges, 
 bananas, shaddocks ; also, potatoes and eggs. 
 Their violent gesticulations and unknown gib- 
 berish, made a scene of confusion, and French- 
 manlike, it seemed as if every minute it would 
 terminate in a violent battle ; but fortunately it 
 passed off without any harm being done. The day 
 continued fine, sea delightful, and temperature 
 very agreeable, and we pursued our voyage with 
 renewed feelings of hope that all things would 
 go on favorably. 
 
 About ten o'clock a. m. we came to the town of 
 St. Pierre, in Martinico, where we left the mail. 
 The town looks old and dilapidated for want of 
 paint. There are no fine houses seen from ship- 
 board, but shade trees are in great abundance.
 
 156 JOURNAL. 
 
 This is a French island, and presents a better ap- 
 pearance than any we have passed. It is also 
 mountainous, with deep gorges between them, 
 interlocking each other, and forming a channel 
 for the water that trickles down the mountains. 
 Beneath these a strip of lowland is spread out, on 
 which numerous small cottages for laborers are 
 placed, and fields of cane are cultivated in small 
 patches, presenting a picturesque scene, that is 
 highly pleasing to the sight. The mountains 
 back rise in magnificent grandeur, and are cov- 
 ered with shrubbery and stately trees of the 
 forest. We are told Port Royal stands on the 
 east side of the island, and is the seat of govern- 
 ment and chief place of trade. The land slopes 
 off to the south, with undulating hills, without 
 much appearance of improvement. Small cot- 
 tages are seen in various directions, but it would 
 seem as if this part of the island had not attracted 
 much attention. 
 
 As we leave Martinico on the south, with a 
 rock elevated fifty feet above the sea, we see as in 
 a mist the Island of St. Lucia, and steering south- 
 east, in a few hours had a view of its mountains 
 and valleys. There is nothing in the prospect 
 that strikes us as possessing anything different
 
 ST. LUCIA. 157 
 
 from the other islands, except its barren condi- 
 tion. We see but little culture, and no estates 
 furnished with mansions and cottages; neither 
 windmills or other factory for preparing sugar. 
 The mountains are covered with shrubbery. We 
 entered the harbor, on which stands Castries, the 
 seaport. It is a small place and has but little 
 interest. A fortress is on the top of one of the 
 hills to the south. A few houses are scattered 
 about the hills, — these are the residences of the 
 grandees of the place. 
 
 Leaving our mail, we took a backward direc- 
 tion, and rounded the northwest end of the island, 
 and directed our course on the east side to Bar- 
 badoes. Night closed upon us soon after leaving 
 the harbor. This is an English possession, and 
 of little value, having very little exports or cul- 
 tivation. The day has been pleasant, although 
 the thermometer is from eighty to eighty-six de- 
 grees. There was a fair wind, which rendered 
 the atmosphere highly delightful. 
 
 Mght closing upon us, and taking a retrospec- 
 tive glance of life, felt nothing but poverty of 
 spirit. A prayerful desire to be furnished with a 
 measure of Divine love was the silent interces- 
 sion of the soul. 
 
 14*
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Barbadoes — St. Vincent — Landing at Demerara — 
 Drives — Departure. 
 
 The night was passed in sweet sleep, and on 
 waking found ourselves near the south end of 
 Barbadoes. As we approached we discovered a 
 ridge of hills running the length of the island, 
 and forming the backbone, with here and there 
 a copse of cocoanut trees, crowning the topmost 
 peaks. The land from the sea rises in a succes- 
 sion of small hills, thickly dotted with small 
 cottages, and cultivated with sugar-cane, which 
 the planters were engaged in grinding, chiefly by 
 windmills. There is very little woodland seen ; 
 every spot capable of cultivation is put into sugar- 
 cane. 
 
 We reached the harbor" of Bridgetown about 
 eiffht and a half o'clock. The town stands on 
 the bay, and extends for a mile along the margin 
 of the sea. The houses look poor, but as we 
 pass onward present a more inviting appearance.
 
 REFLECTIONS. 159 
 
 It contains twenty-six thousand inhabitants, and 
 is the capital of the island. 
 
 Here we parted with most of the passengers, 
 and much of the cargo, and remained until twelve 
 o'clock, when we weighed anchor and proceeded 
 on our voyage to Demerara, with about twenty 
 passengers, most of whom resided there. The 
 day was fine, sky clear, thermometer eighty-six 
 degrees, with southeast wind, which prevented 
 our feeling the excess of the heat. About four 
 o'clock we lost sight of land for the first time 
 since leaving St. Thomas. 
 
 Let us pause to reflect on the majesty of the 
 Almighty power who has created this scene, and 
 given genius to man, to enable him to construct 
 the vast machinery to plough the ocean, and nav- 
 igate the bark to distant climes, bringing the in- 
 habitants into unity and social intercourse one 
 with another, extending arts, science, and civili- 
 zation over the habitable world. May we, the 
 workmanship of His hands, properly appreciate 
 these blessings, and render all thankfulness to 
 the great Author. " Thus doth our spirit mag- 
 nify Thy adorable name, and crave light and 
 knowledge to perform the end of our creation." 
 Night closed upon us soon after six o'clock, and
 
 160 JOURNAL. 
 
 the sea becoming rather rough, we retired to our 
 state-room to think over the occurrences of the 
 day, and examine our hearts, whether in the 
 sight of Him, who created us for His glory, we 
 have spent the time agreeably to His divine will ; 
 then committing our spirits to Him who gave 
 them, we quietly sank to sleep. 
 
 We awoke as we entered the harbor of St. 
 Vincent, about five o'clock. The sea was a little 
 rough, wind southeast, thermometer eighty ; felt 
 summer clothing very agreeable. 
 
 Fourth month, 6th. — Another day has passed ; 
 our sail has been smooth and agreeable, nothing 
 occurring to break in upon the tranquillity of the 
 scene. We changed our state-room for one larger, 
 but much more exposed ; it being in the middle 
 of the deck, we felt the jar of the engine; still 
 the change was for the better. The morning 
 was fine, the thermometer was eighty degrees, 
 wind southeast; there are a few flying clouds, 
 but no land to be seen. 
 
 One of our passengers, a kind and humane 
 man, gave us a very interesting account of his 
 experience with the freedmen. Some nine years 
 since he went out into the interior and procured 
 a large tract of laud, requiring great labor and
 
 THE FREEDMEN. 161 
 
 toil to bring under a state of cultivation ; suc- 
 ceeding in hiring for a fair price, if I mistake not, 
 three hundred colored men with their families. 
 Few if any of the number had been legally mar- 
 ried. He told them this must be the first step to 
 their elevation ; this was done, and the rites of 
 marriage were from that time looked on as sa- 
 cred. He set all to work, either on the planta- 
 tions, or in the erection of tenements for their 
 abodes, which, rude and humble as they were, 
 were their homes, and no doubt for the first time 
 caused them to feel their manhood. They had 
 the assurance that their lives had fallen in pleas- 
 ant places, with a good man, who took them by the 
 hand to help them out of their degradation. He 
 was a Moses unto them, delivering them from the 
 bondage of corruption, and the cupidity of ungodly 
 men, and they confided in him as a father. His 
 name is Barlow. We seemed drawn to him, in 
 nearness of spirit, at our first introduction, with 
 strong desire to accept his kind invitation to pay 
 him a visit, and " see for yourselves," quoting his 
 words, " how the free labor system works." As his 
 home was sixty miles in the interior, we thought 
 it not practicable. Since our return we regretted 
 much we could not pay the visit. This true phi-
 
 162 JOURNAL. 
 
 lanthropist and Christian told us all went wil- 
 lingly to work — little or no remonstrance had 
 been required ; the proceeds of their labor paid 
 well. He was their minister, and had built a 
 chapel on the estate. The same in regard to 
 schools; he. had been the principal for many 
 years ; he placed a high value on their literary 
 improvement ; in short, it was evident to us that 
 he was the man to lay the foundation for a reform 
 in all slave countries, which, when others see, 
 they may feel disposed to go and do likewise. 
 Much may be done in this way toward advancing 
 the great millennium day, " when the kingdoms 
 of this world shall become the kingdom of our 
 Lord and of his Christ;" this being His power 
 working in the hearts of his children in bringing 
 forth good fruits. All effort then to do His will 
 in our duty to our brother, white or black, is so 
 far advancing Christ's peaceable kingdom of 
 righteousness, peace, and joy in the Holy Spirit! 
 This knowledge of what one man is doing, raised 
 the inquiry in our minds, If so much is being 
 done by one towards the elevation of the down- 
 trodden, should a community engage alike in 
 this cause, might not every abuse of power be 
 restrained, while all would alike stand upright ?
 
 THE FREEDMEN. 163 
 
 This Christian man told ns, " He had not felt at 
 liberty to unite himself with any professing body 
 for twenty-six years, all appearing to him more 
 or less sectarian. He said he believed in but one 
 church, and that the church of Christ ; that its 
 members were scattered the world over; that 
 Christianity is to be applied to daily life, having 
 nothing to do with sects or creeds ;" saying, " I 
 can subscribe to many of the tenets held by all, 
 but to none of their dogmas or prejudices." His 
 life seemed devoted to the improvement and ele- 
 vation of the emancipated, both mentally and 
 physically. From what we could judge, nothing 
 he can do for that people is left undone. On his 
 domain all are well paid. Each man can earn 
 from twelve to fifteen dollars per month, the labor 
 being performed by tasks, which requires seven 
 hours. A man may, if disposed, complete two of 
 these per day, worth one dollar. All cannot per- 
 form the same amount of labor. Women work 
 in the fields : they earn almost as much as the 
 men, but they are mostly employed as house- 
 keepers and waiters. Large numbers of the la- 
 borers have houses and lots of their own, while 
 emigrants and others less thriving, have houses 
 found them, with as much land as they can culti-
 
 164 JOURNAL. 
 
 vate. Their medical attendance is gratis, as well 
 as the privilege of schools. All emigrants are 
 well paid by the employers ; some of them have 
 been with them a long time. 
 
 Nine o'clock. Sea-water light green, then it 
 became muddy; at ten o'clock we descried a 
 steamer to the south, also a brig. Saw with a 
 glass the flag-ship. The tide being low, we 
 steered on for an hour below the mouth of the 
 River Demerara. "We crossed the bar about three 
 o'clock, and came to anchor opposite George- 
 town, about four o'clock. 
 
 Little did we think, on leaving home, we should 
 have extended our wanderings so far, and being 
 about to land, with prayerful hearts, and in good 
 health, looked forward to leaving the steamer. It 
 was amusing to hear the crowing of fowls, cack- 
 ling of chickens, and quacking of ducks from 
 our deck, a goodly number always being carried, 
 as if they really knew we had reached our desti- 
 nation, and they joined in hilarity with those on 
 board. It seemed as if those in charge of clear- 
 ing up and putting all to rights, moved every- 
 thing capable of transit, while water was thrown 
 in every direction, scrubbing, dashing over every 
 part above us, so that it was not safe to venture
 
 DEMERARA. 165 
 
 on deck, unless one required a general ablution. 
 We had first-rate fare on this trip, and our gen- 
 tlemanly captain, and his amiable and engaging 
 manners, will long live in our remembrance. 
 His name is Hole, of the steamer Thames. We 
 hope we have not seen this worthy man for the 
 last time. We had no sea-sickness since leaving 
 Barbadoes, for which we felt very thankful. 
 
 The pilot informed us that the business part of 
 the city, called Water Street, had recently been 
 destroyed by fire. On first day, the third, it com- 
 menced, whilst church was in session, and was 
 not entirely extinguished until next day. The 
 destruction was very great, estimated at three 
 millions of dollars. 
 
 We landed about four o'clock, after much dif- 
 ficulty, which arose from the turbulence and bad 
 temper of the boatmen, who are more violent on 
 these islands, as they come out with their boats, 
 than any other class of people with whom we 
 have met. Each seemed determined to get all the 
 passengers in his boat. Their conduct amounted 
 to desperation. We were afraid to go with them, 
 and told them we would not, unless they would 
 be quiet. The captain forbade them coming on 
 deck, when one of those in whose boat we thought 
 
 15
 
 166 JOURNAL. 
 
 we should go, jumped on to the stairs, as if to 
 come up; that moment the fourth officer had 
 taken me by the arm to assist me down the stairs, 
 while my dear husband was just behind us, with 
 some of our baggage. The officer gave the man 
 on the stairs a shove, which we feared would 
 make trouble, throwing him back into his boat. 
 He got up instantly, and with his iist or some in- 
 strument, knocked the officer down with great 
 force; at the same time my dear husband was 
 thrown with violence against the boat, producing 
 considerable injury to his face. I fully believe he 
 would have been overboard, and might have been 
 drowned, had I not sprung and caught him as he 
 was going into the water. 
 
 He soon recovered, however, and we were 
 seated together in safety, and we left the pell- 
 mell host behind, after several of this class of 
 boatmen had received a few showers of water 
 on their heads, from the ship. 
 
 Took a carriage for Hamilton Hotel, which 
 was full to overflowing, as was every other public 
 house in the city, in consequence of the late fire, 
 which was still burning. 
 
 "We should have had no accommodations here, 
 had we taken no for an answer. My dear hus-
 
 ACCOMMODATIONS. 167 
 
 band proposed we should look further. I told 
 him I would see what I could do. I went to the 
 landlady and asked her if we could rest in an 
 upper hall, on the sofa, until dinner; she said we 
 might. In an hour she came up, when I began 
 to feel myself quite at home. I told her I wanted 
 to go up stairs with her; she said, well, and we 
 went into every room that would admit us ; but 
 all were to be filled that night. At last I spied a 
 little door some distance off, to which 1 stepped, 
 and said, "Is this occupied?" She answered, "I 
 don't think it will be to-night; but it is for only 
 one person." "Oh!" said I, "it is sufficient for 
 us." When I told my dear husband he laughed 
 heartily at my perseverance, as well as contriv- 
 ance. 
 
 The people in this warm climate are not so 
 fastidious as in our country; they are glad to 
 get accommodations in almost any way. For 
 ourselves we thought it a great favor to get a 
 single bed in a room almost without furniture, 
 while I eked it out with chairs; although we paid 
 the same as if it had been a fine large room. 
 
 I procured some beautiful specimens of quartz, 
 and other curiosities, several curious nests of 
 South American wasps, which now are highly
 
 168 JOURNAL. 
 
 valued, and grace one of my cabinets. They are 
 of singular construction, showing that the great 
 power of genius is not confined to the human 
 mind. The intelligence of many animals is won- 
 derful, and none more so in the construction of 
 dwellings than the bee family. One of these 
 dwellings is two stories high, constructed of 
 bark, so closely inlaid as to form walls twice the 
 thickness of heavy pasteboard, and curiously 
 wrought, with cells in the upper and lower 
 stories, showing much artistic skill, being beauti- 
 fully mottled, and smooth as glass. A door of 
 entrance is above the first, so as to escape to the 
 second in case of invasion from below ; or, as one 
 observed, who was examining it, perhaps it was 
 appropriated to all the children in the stately 
 mansion. 
 
 The birds here are of surpassing beauty, but 
 as our curiosities had already accumulated to a 
 great amount for travellers, we had to forego the 
 pleasure of procuring a collection of birds and 
 shining insects. "We procured one charming 
 bird, called the cock of the rock, being gold 
 color, with a splendid comb. It is, I think, about 
 the size of a goldfinch. 
 
 Our kind host invited us to take a ride through
 
 PLANTS. 169 
 
 the burnt district, which we did. The fire has 
 consumed a large portion of the business part of 
 the town. In our ride we saw the situation of 
 the place and public buildings. The town is laid 
 out in sectional streets, crossing each other at 
 right angles, with a canal running through the 
 centre, ornamented on its banks with oleanders. 
 The houses stand apart, two or three stories high, 
 receding a little from the street, and having gar- 
 dens front and back. They are built light and 
 airy, and the streets being wide and near the sea, 
 a fine breeze is generally felt, carrying off the 
 heat, so that in reality we do not feel it so sensi- 
 bly as our own summer heat ; the thermometer 
 is from eighty to eighty-five degrees in the shade. 
 In one of our rambles we took a walk through 
 a very beautiful public garden. The exotics here, 
 as well as in all other warm countries, grow to 
 much greater size and perfection than with us ; 
 the same species seem like other plants of mam- 
 moth growth. Many fine specimens of roses 
 grow to good-sized trees, and cactus from thirty 
 to sixty feet in height. We saw in many places 
 oleanders quite as large as many of our fruit 
 trees; indeed, there appeared few in that splen- 
 did garden that could be rightly called flowering 
 
 15*
 
 170 JOURNAL. 
 
 plants or shrubbery ; no winter being there, they 
 grow on from age to age without any interrup- 
 tion. Not unfrequently the seeds from different 
 trees, more particularly the cactus, are carried by 
 the wind to other trees, and find entrance in every 
 cavity that can be found, where they vegetate 
 and take root, and other trees branch out not at 
 all of the same species. It is something like our 
 mode of grafting, only this is self-performing, 
 and that with seeds rather than shoots. "We saw 
 plenty of them thus growing, and on our depar- 
 ture our kind hostess filled a small basket with 
 these plants, and we carried them to Barbadoes 
 on our return there, intending to take them to 
 the United States. 
 
 At this place we met some New Yorkers, and 
 greeted each other with much delight; and 
 although we had never been acquainted before, 
 the very fact of being citizens of the same place, 
 and a knowledge of each other's families, brought 
 us together in feeling. The time passed very 
 pleasantly while in this city. 
 
 Next morning we arose, and in company with 
 a very agreeable young Englishman, w T ho, as well 
 as ourselves, was exploring the country, rode out 
 and spent most of the day. On returning, we
 
 SUGAR ESTATES. 171 
 
 took a narrow way, which is often inundated with 
 water waist deep, making it necessary to travel 
 about in boats. Vigilance, Belfield, &c, are all 
 miserable-looking places — dirty within, not a ray 
 of comfort about them. There is much marshy, 
 low land along the railroad, covered with rush 
 or bushes, whilst higher up were seen cane and 
 cotton fields. The improvements all stand back, 
 so that we saw only one or two during the ride. 
 We are told the dwellings are plain, but the fix- 
 tures for sugar-making are fine. One estate has 
 made twenty-five thousand hogsheads of sugar in 
 a year, and cleared sixty thousand dollars. We 
 saw other estates, not so large, but fine and pro- 
 ductive; they are drained by dykes running from 
 the sea to the interior, as we could see. The 
 whole country is flat, and subject to floods. It is 
 rich and productive, but destructive to health 
 and morals. 
 
 We are told it is a fair sample of the country 
 of Demerara, though some parts of British 
 Guiana are better, and in the mountainous re- 
 gions fine timber and stone are in abundance, 
 and gold has recently been discovered, and likely 
 to be profitable. 
 
 The population of British Guiana is about one
 
 172 JOURNAL. 
 
 hundred and sixty thousand. Many of the col- 
 ored are in a very demoralized condition, living 
 in idleness and immorality. From all the in- 
 formation we received here, as well as from what 
 we saw, they are greatly debased for want of 
 schools and incentives to elevation. We saw 
 many of the Coolies, as well as natives, working 
 in the water waist deep. The country about 
 looked terrible, as if a malaria might have pre- 
 vailed there. This place, as well as the other 
 islands we visited, might be entirely changed if 
 the interests of colored and whites were consid- 
 ered, as there are great facilities here for im- 
 provement. With all their disadvantages, some 
 of the most intelligent informed us that since 
 emancipation their exports had been far greater 
 than during the whole term of the existence of 
 slavery, and might have been greatly enhanced 
 by the culture of cotton and rice, had not the 
 English Government placed all the staples grown 
 on free soil on a par with those of Cuba, Porto 
 Rico, and other slave-grown labor. They thought 
 it very unjust, and petitioned the general gov- 
 ernment for protection, praying that the duties 
 on their exports might be removed, as they found 
 there was no inducement to raise many of their
 
 JOHN BRIGHT. 173 
 
 commodities while the duties were so heavy on 
 them. John Bright and others advocated their 
 cause, hut were compelled to give it up, after 
 having made many enemies. What a Christian 
 philanthropist is that noble-souled man, John 
 Bright! His large humanity extends to all; 
 his spirit is world-wide and Godlike, and his 
 good name, like some in our own land, will go 
 down to posterity encircled with a halo of sun- 
 light, as one of the friends of human kind, and 
 saviours of his race ! He knows no distinction 
 of labor or caste, but is ever pleading for the 
 rights of all. I hope to be permitted to live to 
 see and press the hand so often raised in his elo- 
 quent pleadings for suffering humanity ! 
 
 We now returned home, riding much of the 
 way on the seaside, visiting the Arsenal, and 
 many other public places. We arrived in time 
 for dinner at six o'clock. 
 
 After we had taken a good dinner we took a 
 carriage and drove round to some parts of the 
 city not before visited, and saw more of their 
 public buildings and works.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Eeturn to Barbadoes — Appearance of the Country — 
 Kindness and Hospitality — Friends' Burial-grounds 
 — Keligious Meetings. 
 
 We had advanced now far in fourth month, 
 1864, and were fearful of meeting excessively 
 warm weather on the islands we were yet to 
 visit. Accordingly, as soon as the steamer was 
 in readiness, we once more embarked on the 
 Thames, with much regret, as we felt our stay 
 had been quite too short. We took leave of our 
 kind host and hostess with feelings of near re- 
 gard, hoping we might meet them again in time. 
 If not, we can say to all our friends whose faces 
 may be turned thitherward, try to find their good 
 house. 
 
 That night the wind was high and the sea 
 boisterous ; we both were extremely seasick, and 
 retired to our state-room, but not to sleep. 
 When morning came, we found ourselves better. 
 A good breakfast being set, we went down to
 
 BARBADOES. 175 
 
 the table, but soon feeling extremely sick, I re- 
 sumed my berth as soon as possible, where I 
 remained most of the passage until we made 
 port, and dropped anchor oft' the Island of Bar- 
 badoes. 
 
 "We went on shore with Captain "Williams, and 
 felt a great deliverance in not having to en- 
 counter those ill-bred boatmen. We took lodg- 
 ings at Hoad's Hotel, where we were nicely 
 accommodated, the proprietor and wife being 
 equally kind as at Demerara. 
 
 We took a walk the same evening to one of 
 their markets, the owners being people of color. 
 The meats and vegetables, as well as fruits, 
 seemed quite indifferent to us. We made some 
 purchases of fruits, strolled about for awhile, and 
 returned to our hotel, rather favorably impressed 
 with the condition of the freed people. They 
 seemed more civilized, and we did not hear the 
 wrangling and fighting as on the Danish Islands. 
 We found an overwhelming population of this 
 class; far too many for the cultivation of the 
 island. 
 
 Fourth month, 11th; second day. We have 
 taken three walks over the city, and find it a 
 considerable place ; the houses are compact, two
 
 176 JOURNAL. 
 
 and three stories, built of stone and plastered; 
 the streets are irregular and macadamized with 
 limestone, so that the reflection from the white 
 surface is trying to the eyes, and when it rains, a 
 white, sticky mud adheres to the feet and clothes. 
 The principal streets are Broad, Swan, High, 
 James, and Milk Streets. It contains about nine- 
 teen thousand inhabitants; the island, one hun- 
 dred and sixty thousand. Colored people are 
 the most numerous. The pure blacks are of the 
 lower class; the mulatto takes a middle rank. 
 Some fill conspicuous stations, as merchants, me- 
 chanics, and municipal officers. There are a 
 number of churches, hospitals, schools, &c, but 
 little provision for the poor and destitute. 
 
 "We attended the "Wesleyan meeting last even- 
 ing. There was a respectable assemblage of 
 people, white, mulatto, and black. The black 
 generally took the galleries. There were among 
 the mixture some almost white. There might 
 have been four hundred composing the congre- 
 gation. 
 
 We find the people kind and accommodating. 
 Have done some shopping; the stores good and 
 assortment general. The thermometer in shade, 
 eighty-five; in sun, ninety, at one o'clock p.m.
 
 friends' burial-ground. 177 
 
 There was a little rain this morning. We 
 went to the Wesleyan mission-house, which 
 stands on the lot once occupied by " Friends " for 
 their meeting-house and burial-grounds. The 
 dwelling is supposed to be a part of the meeting- 
 house. It seemed very solemn to us to walk over 
 the grounds where repose the ashes of those once 
 in communion with us, and, as the expansive 
 trees waved over the place where their remains 
 are deposited, it seemed almost like a funeral 
 dirge to their memory. No mark is visible to 
 give any account of their names, the stones hav- 
 ing been laid a considerable distance below the 
 surface. A very interesting account was given 
 us of the Friends who once lived there, and we 
 could but attribute to their influence the better 
 condition of the people, both colored and white. 
 Although they have long since passed away, it 
 seemed to us that the Scripture text would apply, 
 " They being dead, yet speak; " " Go and do thou 
 likewise," — the condition of all classes on this 
 island being in advance of all others we have yet 
 visited. The burial-ground is situated on James 
 Street, above Lucas. It was sold, we were in- 
 formed, by a Friend, named Gordon, who was 
 
 16
 
 178 JOURNAL. 
 
 the last relic of Quakerism here, bj what au- 
 thority we did not learn. 
 
 In the evening we went to the mission-house, 
 by invitation, and took a cup of tea with the 
 minister and his wife, Henry and Clarissa Hurd. 
 He was engaged in church service, but returned 
 to tea, and we found him a most agreeable, inter- 
 esting and intelligent man, and his wife a noble- 
 souled Christian, and highly gifted woman. She 
 has, for many years, been in the habit of going 
 about in different parts of the city, administering 
 to the wants, both spiritual and temporal, of the 
 "weary and heavy laden." I never saw any one 
 who appeared more entirely in her place; both 
 day and night is she going about among them, 
 as a missionary of mercy and love. Long will 
 the memory of that dear family be precious to 
 me, and it was equally so to my husband. 
 
 We met there numbers of distinguished per- 
 sons from the islands; among them Anthony 
 G. Ward, who was a minister of the Methodist 
 persuasion, though he appeared more like a 
 Friend, We found him a young man of great 
 worth, and we felt no disposition to say he was 
 not in his place. He extended to us an invita-
 
 LABORING CLASSES. 179 
 
 tion to attend his meeting, twelve miles distant, 
 at Sprightstown, on the following sixth day. 
 
 We rode out on the island, and in the south- 
 east part found the city quite extensive, with fine 
 improvements, the residences of merchants and 
 wealthy persons, of both colors. Along some of 
 the streets are small one-story dwelling-houses, 
 the abodes of the colored and laboring classes, 
 chiefly owned by themselves, and would cost two 
 or three hundred dollars to build, and rent from 
 five to twelve dollars a month. The laboring 
 class look comfortable and well clad; quite as 
 well as with us, if not superior to many in our 
 obscure streets. They have some pride of charac- 
 ter, and look to elevation through their conduct. 
 The country houses are fine and the estates rich. 
 
 We passed through the military garrison, 
 which consists of fine buildings and extensive 
 parade-grounds. We saw some soldiers parad- 
 ing, and others exercising their arms, &c. I felt 
 sad, that the object of man's creation should be 
 so perverted as to be trained to killing his brother 
 man. We were highly delighted with the ride, 
 and have to acknowledge we have seen nothing 
 so civilized and comfortable since leaving the 
 United States. The island is level and well
 
 180 JOURNAL. 
 
 adapted to agricultural purposes. A small river 
 runs into the sea at this end of the city. 
 
 12th. Fair morning; thermometer eighty-four; 
 nice breeze. Rose at five o'clock, and took a 
 ride eight miles, to the Harrington Estate. We 
 found the manager very civil, highly intelligent, 
 and well posted in American affairs. It was a 
 delightful ride, along the south side of a beauti- 
 ful valley, handsomely cultivated with fields of 
 cane, iu different stages of growth. This, is the 
 sugar-making season, and most of the cane being 
 fit, we saw the laborers cutting it down and cart- 
 ing the stalks to the mill, where other hands were 
 employed, grinding, boiling, distilling, &c. We 
 were told this estate yields from three to four 
 hundred hogsheads of sugar annually, unless 
 drought, or other mishap befalls it. Their works 
 are propelled by steam; and here we saw a 
 steam-plough of fourteen-horse-power, and was 
 told it operated well. The agent is an intelligent 
 man, and understood the cause of our war better 
 than any Englishman with whom we have ever 
 conversed. The country is sufficiently rolling 
 for all purposes of drainage. The roads are cut 
 through limestone, which forms the foundation, 
 and is kept in repair by sand, gravel, and some
 
 LABORING CLASSES. 181 
 
 other material placed upon it as occasion re- 
 quires. We observed, in every direction, cot- 
 tages dotted over the country, in close proxim- 
 ity, and in many places forming small villages ; 
 these are the houses of laborers ; some belong to 
 the estate, and are rented ; others are owned by 
 the occupants. The number of laborers con- 
 stantly employed here is not more than fifty to 
 one hundred on a plantation ; at the time of crop- 
 ping they require many more, and hire by the 
 day, giving two to four shillings, according to 
 the work they do. The laboring population is 
 much more numerous on these islands than is 
 necessary, — hence emigration must take place, at 
 some future time, to a great extent. The climate 
 being warm, and their wants few, they make 
 little answer, and, no doubt, will remain as long 
 as they can procure the necessaries of life. 
 There is very little forest here ; mahogany, wild 
 fig, tamarinds, &c, abound. We were told the 
 maguey tree has a powerful preserving quality, 
 and will preserve meat for a long time. It is 
 used in hospitals at Demerara for this purpose, 
 with good effect. There are a few fields of cot- 
 ton, but it does not look flourishing, owing to the 
 cane absorbing the general attention. 
 
 16*
 
 182 JOURNAL. 
 
 13th. We had an appointed meeting this even- 
 ing in the Wesleyan meeting-house, on James 
 Street, near the milk market, at the invitation of 
 the minister, Henry Hurd — the house one hun- 
 dred and eight feet long by sixty wide, with gal- 
 leries on three sides. It was filled to overflowing, 
 and the yard was also crowded, — the largest as- 
 semblage known there for a long time. The 
 meeting was given up to us to be held according 
 to our form, and after a suitable time the text 
 was brought into view — "Who shall ascend into 
 Heaven to bring Christ down from above," &c.,I 
 think understanding^ and clearly to most minds, 
 from the expression after the close of the meet- 
 ing. They were called to the power of Christ 
 within themselves ; there they would find their 
 duty opened in the clearness, and required neither 
 men or books to reveal it. The people sat still 
 some time after the announcement that the meet- 
 ing had closed, and did not move until we passed 
 away. We made no arrangement for any of the 
 meetings, but an announcement was made that a 
 meeting would be held at Bethel Chapel the fol- 
 lowing evening, at which we would be present. 
 
 14th. We rose early and took a walk down 
 town, along Cheapside Street, and passed many
 
 RELIGIOUS MEETINGS. 183 
 
 very neat and comfortable dwellings, the resi- 
 dences of the rich citizens. Their houses are 
 surrounded with flowering trees and shrubbery — 
 the oleander grows here from twenty to thirty 
 feet high, and the flowers are also very large. 
 The lots go down to the seaside. We passed one 
 mansion that had an arbor of bamboo, leading 
 from the porter's lodge to the circle before the 
 door; its appearance was quite pretty. 
 
 Thermometer eighty to eighty-two degrees; 
 gentle breeze ; feels quite pleasant in the shade. 
 We are to take tea at William Heath's this even- 
 ing, and attend the Bethel meeting. We are 
 informed by him that there is great poverty 
 amongst the laboring classes; they would work 
 if they could get anything to do, but the popula- 
 tion is too great for the wants of the island, and 
 hundreds must perish if rain does not favor the 
 crops; there are thousands that waken in the 
 morning and know not where they can get a 
 meal, yet as we pass about making our observa- 
 tion, this class generally look comfortable. The 
 greatest destitution is in the country. 
 
 15th. We attended Bethel meeting last even- 
 ing ; W. Heath, the* pastor, is a man of kind feel- 
 ings, with whom we took tea, — going from his
 
 184 JOURNAL. 
 
 house to the meeting, which was full to overflow- 
 ing, this being the largest audience we have met 
 here or elsewhere for a long time. The assem- 
 blage was composed of both colored and white. 
 The former were well dressed, the females wear- 
 ing white turbans around their heads. All be- 
 came quiet, and after a time the text was ex- 
 plained — " Necessity is laid upon me, and woe is 
 unto me if I preach not the Gospel," calling the 
 attention of the people to practical righteousness, 
 good fruits, &c. The people were attentive, and 
 seemed satisfied with what they heard. The 
 destitute claimed our attention, the kind minister 
 offering to distribute whatever we had to bestow. 
 "We expect to go to Sprightstown to attend a 
 meeting there this afternoon. 
 
 16th. We took the omnibus at four o'clock for 
 Sprightstown — Anthony G. Ward, Methodist 
 pastor, who had appointed a meeting for us. We 
 arrived in good time, took tea at the parsonage, 
 and went to meeting at seven and a half o'clock, 
 where were assembled a large audience of white, 
 colored, and black, — many more whites than I 
 expected to see there. The meeting was given 
 up entirely to us, and condticted after our own 
 order. After sitting quiet for twenty minutes,
 
 friends' burial-ground. 185 
 
 during which great stillness was observed, the 
 subject was opened relating to the nature of that 
 worship which is acceptable in the Divine sight, 
 " God is a spirit," &c. The Christian religion is 
 simple and easily to be understood, — love to God 
 and love to man. The text was enlarged upon, 
 and allusion made to the new birth through which 
 true righteousness is to be attained. The people 
 were exhorted to refrain from intemperance and 
 all manner of evil, and come home to the gift nigh 
 in the heart. They were remarkably still, and lis- 
 tened attentively for an hour. The minister ob- 
 served afterwards that it was remarkable, for they 
 generally became restive after half an hour's dis- 
 course. The meeting ended satisfactorily, many 
 expressing their desire for us to hold another. 
 
 We lodged with our young friend Ward, and 
 took breakfast. We rose early and attempted to 
 visit a graveyard once used by Friends, who had 
 a meeting-house here ; but it began to rain, and 
 I thought best to return. My dear husband con- 
 tinued on for half a mile to the Episcopal Church, 
 at the upper end of Sprightstown, which, with 
 the burial-ground, is inclosed with a substantial 
 stone wall. He was taken to the old part of the 
 yard, and there was a tomb, with a flat stone
 
 186 JOURNAL. 
 
 lying on the top, the inscription nearly obliter- 
 ated. The only words he could make out were 
 John W., 1673. There were two other graves 
 with marble sides, head and foot, without any 
 inscription. There stands near the church an old- 
 looking marmee tree, and growing near there is 
 a jessamine, with purple and white flowers. Near 
 the gateway is the tomb of Benjamin Collins, 
 M.D., who w r as a reputed Friend, and practised 
 medicine in Sprightstown. Inscribed on the 
 tombstone is the following: Benjamin Collins, 
 M.D., who departed this life April 26th, 1826, 
 aged 68 years. 
 
 This tribute of grateful remembrance is paid 
 by his affectionate wife: 
 
 " Generous, cheerful, and in friendship true, 
 He calmly paid the debt to Nature due; 
 Blessed son of Genius, whose capacious mind, 
 Open to Science, to no branch confined, 
 He dauntless skilled Botanic's art to trace, 
 The many plants that do this island grace; 
 His country's boast, for talents found so rare, 
 Who knew him best will heave a sigh sincere." 
 
 We do not find any Friends residing on this 
 island. The hand of time hath wrought great 
 changes in this, as well as the other graveyard
 
 A SLAVER. 187 
 
 we visited. The ruin seemed to us deep and im- 
 pressive. 
 
 The country through which we passed was a 
 tine agricultural district, containing many hand- 
 some estates. Numerous little cottages line the 
 road for many miles, and great numbers of chil- 
 dren were running about, and seemed very happy. 
 
 A friend from Philadelphia, G. W. Loud, called 
 upon us, and invited us to tea at Joseph Drum- 
 mett's, in company with Henry Paclgham, a min- 
 ister, and his wife, T. J. Cummins, a magistrate, 
 with many others, white and colored. Henry 
 Padgham is about sailing to England ; he preached 
 at St. James Church his farewell discourse when 
 we attended. 
 
 This morning Dr. Hurd preached, on Faith and 
 Hope, a good logical discourse. 
 
 18th. Called this morning on Trowbridge, the 
 American Consul, and a banker named Carpen- 
 ter, and some others. Found it very warm, and 
 soon returned to our lodgings. These visits were 
 made preparatory to our leaving for Trinidad. 
 
 An incident related by the magistrate above 
 alluded to must not be omitted. "There had 
 been a suspicious-looking vessel sailing about 
 in the harbor for a considerable time ; the cap-
 
 188 JOURNAL. 
 
 tain and some of the men on board would fre- 
 quently come on shore, especially in the evening, 
 and mingle with the people of color ; they being 
 white men, it created surprise. At last it came 
 out that they wished to take some emigrants to 
 a certain island, where they would receive large 
 wages and superior accommodations for them- 
 selves and families. As soon as this was made 
 known the colored people were advised to be- 
 ware ; but they told a fair story, and said a writ- 
 ten contract should be made with every family 
 to carry out all they had promised. The colored 
 people were still advised to be very cautious, as 
 all might not be right; contracts, however, were 
 made out, some money, perhaps, paid to each. 
 A large number were thus entrapped, probably 
 sufficient to fill the vessel. All looked very fair, 
 and they were told she would not sail until a 
 certain period, and they would have sufficient 
 time to prepare everything they wished to take 
 with them. Soon after this the crew came to 
 shore one night with a number of boats, made a 
 hasty call at each dwelling, told the people it was 
 an imperative command from the captain that all 
 should be on board that night, as he would sail 
 very early in the morning. They accordingly,
 
 A SLAVER. 189 
 
 having all confidence in the captain, made ready 
 as soon as possible, and went on board. As soon 
 as they were all snugly settled on the vessel the 
 captain gave orders to put her under way. The 
 people immediately became much alarmed, but 
 they were ordered to be quiet, and. no notice 
 taken of their complaints. They now saw they 
 were decoyed, and that the vessel was actually a 
 slaver. One man said — ' I will not go ; put me 
 on shore.' They ordered him below, and told 
 him he had contracted to go, and should go. He 
 instantly jumped overboard, and being a good 
 swimmer, reached the pier from which he started, 
 and ran up into the town with great speed. Stop- 
 ping near this magistrate's house to give the 
 alarm, he told us he was awakened in great sur- 
 prise by the cries of the people of color. He 
 went out to see what was the matter, and found 
 them crying bitterly that their fathers and friends 
 had all been carried into slavery, which we feared 
 might be true. Information was conveyed as quick 
 as possible to the Governor. He immediately sent 
 out small vessels in all directions, if possible to 
 overtake them and bring the people back. It 
 was of no avail. They returned to bring the sad 
 tidings to their friends, who were inconsolable at 
 
 17
 
 190 JOURNAL. 
 
 the loss." We remained on the island near two 
 weeks, but nothing had been heard from them 
 previous to our leaving. 
 
 Is it not clear to every thinking mind, that so 
 long as slavery exists under the Spanish gov- 
 ernment, that free people are liable to be kid- 
 napped at any hour ? The presumption was when 
 we were in Barbadoes, that they had been taken 
 to the Island of Cuba, and there sold as slaves. 
 Would it not be well for the friends of the slave 
 everywhere to look about and see what we have 
 to do? that we maybe instrumental in " unbind- 
 ing every heavy burden, and letting the oppressed 
 go free." 
 
 We took leave of this magistrate, and the 
 friends that we met there, with feelings of in- 
 terest and sympathy not soon to be forgotten, 
 many of them desiring us to forward our like- 
 nesses after our return. Great numbers called 
 on us previous to our leaving the island, many of 
 them requiring aid, which it was our pleasure to 
 bestow. We then bade a long, and perhaps last 
 farewell to them all, having spent our time most 
 agreeably, receiving great kindness and atten- 
 tion, which we have much desired to reciprocate 
 at our own home.
 
 FLYING-FISH. 191 
 
 On this island only, we saw an abundance of 
 flying-fish, which the Islanders consider a great 
 delicacy. We found them quite palatable, but 
 have seen no fish on any of the islands, or in 
 South America, to compare with our own, al- 
 though we had no cause to complain of our 
 fare on this island. No island, of all we visited, 
 had so much the appearance of freedom. The 
 great difficulty seems an overgrown population. 
 We could say with the lecturer on this subject, 
 that little elevation could be arrived at until 
 the people had the opportunity to bring out their 
 talent for enterprise and perseverance, which, we 
 believe, many would evince were the means put 
 in their power. Great care should be taken in 
 the proper selection of a home in some distant 
 land, to which they would be willing to' emi- 
 grate, as most who might feel inclined to do so, 
 are like children, always having been under the 
 control of others. Much would be required to 
 make them comfortable, until they were in cir- 
 cumstances to care for themselves, and they 
 would be in great danger of being abducted by 
 the cupidity of the whites to some slave market, 
 if not protected by the English government. A 
 large number of English families reside here.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 St. Vincent — Grenada — Trinidad — Coolies. 
 
 Fourth month, 20th. — We again embarked on 
 board the Thames with our gentlemanly captain, 
 who seemed to us like an old friend. We ar- 
 rived at St. George's, on the Island of St. Yin- 
 cent, in the night. We had but an obscure view 
 of the harbor and its surroundings. Continuing 
 on our route, we reached Grenada about seven 
 o'clock a.m., and landing, spent the day in that 
 uninteresting town called St. George's, on the 
 Isle of Grenada. 
 
 We first made our way up a very high hill to 
 a poor hotel. We went through the town and 
 visited the fortifications. The town is built on a 
 hill, and is either ascending or descending in all 
 directions. Houses old and poor, and trade next 
 to nothing. We went into half a dozen stores to 
 purchase shoestrings, but could find none for 
 sale. Had it not been for the kindness of an 
 apothecary, we should not have been able to pro-
 
 TRINIDAD. 193 
 
 cure them ; he induced a shoe merchant to take 
 them out of a pair of shoes and let me have 
 them. 
 
 There is a vacant square in the centre used as 
 a market-place, around which the stores are 
 placed. We went on hoard our steamer at five 
 o'clock, but did not leave until eight o'clock. It 
 is here the family of Captain Hole reside; his wife 
 came on board at St. Vincent ; we spent the day 
 at his home whilst the ship was loading. The 
 hills look very barren, covered with shrubbery 
 of a wild leafless aspect. A few fine houses 
 are situated on high hills, overlooking the town. 
 The captain's family occupy one of these. 
 
 Continuing on our voyage we reached the Port 
 of Spain, in the Island of Trinidad, at seven and 
 a half o'clock, on sixth day, fourth month, 22d, 
 1864. On landing, we proceeded to Mary 
 O'Brien's hotel. She is a colored woman, and 
 her house is thought the best in the town. One 
 of her daughters is married to a white man, who 
 looked very respectable, and they live well. Her 
 son is a distinguished ornithologist, and has a 
 vast collection of birds from all the different 
 islands, as well as from South America. We 
 felt interested in this family. 
 
 17*
 
 194 JOURNAL. 
 
 After breakfast we took a carriage and drove 
 through the town and its environs. The streets 
 run at right angles. King Street, being the 
 principal street, is very wide, with four rows of 
 shade trees and a fountain of surpassing beauty. 
 The houses are built two stories, and have stores 
 in the basement, and dwellings above, with ve- 
 randas in front of them. This is the general 
 style of building on these islands. In our ride 
 we called at the Mission House, and were met by 
 the minister, Dr. Hosford, with a letter from Min- 
 ister Iiurd. He had been apprised of our coming, 
 and he and his family received us with every 
 kindness. They told us how glad they would 
 be to make way for us to hold a meeting there, 
 and said they had made an appointment for us to 
 do so that evening, when they should expect a 
 full attendance, and desired us to take the con- 
 trol of the meeting, and hold it in our own way. 
 What an example of liberality, and how will it 
 compare with our tour in Europe a few years 
 since! The children of the Lord know each 
 other in spirit in every clime, being taught of 
 Him. They sympathize with each other in en- 
 tertaining strangers, believing it possible, in the 
 words of Scripture, that in doing this, they may
 
 TRINIDAD. 195 
 
 sometimes " entertain angels unawares." We 
 accepted the kind invitation for the meeting; 
 and having been invited to tea, after it was over 
 went directly to the meeting. Notwithstanding 
 the time was short, the meeting was crowded 
 to overflowing with all classes. After a solemn 
 pause, they were addressed from the text, "Ver- 
 ily, I perceive God is no respecter of persons," 
 &c. ; and applying it to every class and nation, 
 opened the means of salvation through obedience 
 to the power of God in the heart. Those in high 
 standing were exhorted to remember those of 
 low degree, by lifting the heavy weight from 
 their shoulders, and speaking in the expressive 
 language of conduct, "Rise up and walk." The 
 people were told if they wished to improve their 
 island and the condition of the lower classes, 
 they must do all in their power to educate and en- 
 courage morality and industry. While this class 
 were exhorted to do all in their power for their 
 own elevation, it was but too evident that a vast 
 amount was to be done by those called the higher 
 classes. After the meeting the people seemed 
 riveted to their seats, having to be told more than 
 once that the services of meeting were over. We 
 returned to the Mission House, many accompa-
 
 196 JOURNAL. 
 
 nying us there. It was evident a chord of feeling 
 had been touched that produced a general vibra- 
 tion. This kind minister waited on us to our 
 lodgings, and spent an hour in friendly and in- 
 teresting conversation. 
 
 On taking leave of him, he said, " I hope to 
 visit the United States, and should I come to 
 Philadelphia, your house would be the one I 
 should seek." "We told him that would be ex- 
 tremely gratifying to us, and wished him to make 
 our house his home. We then retired for the 
 night, in humble thankfulness for the " privilege 
 of breaking bread among the multitude, who 
 were hungering and thirsting for the bread of 
 life." 
 
 I omitted to say, in coming from Barbadoes to 
 Trinidad, we met some most agreeable persons, 
 John Clairmont and wife, with their little daugh- 
 ter. His wife had known me in New York, 
 years ago, and our meeting was highly pleasing. 
 Her husband, an English gentleman, made him- 
 self very agreeable. An invitation was extended 
 to make them a visit, a few miles out of the city, 
 which we did. 
 
 The meeting with this lovely young woman 
 carried me back to my earlier life, when she
 
 OLD ACQUAINTANCES. 197 
 
 knew me in my dear native land, where I used 
 oft to mingle in sweet fellowship with warm con- 
 genial hearts. But where are they now? Gone! 
 many of them forever gone from earthly vision ! 
 But, although we see them here no more, or en- 
 joy their sweet companionship, we may behold 
 them in mental vision, translated from earth to 
 heaven, like so many bright gems added to the 
 Father's crown, while we feel bound to them 
 by mystic bands, that even death cannot sever. 
 This lovely young creature had left every kin- 
 dred tie, and all the endearments of home, leaving 
 behind her a fond and loving mother, and came 
 to a land of strangers to reside. I felt great 
 sympathy for her, still in her youth, sweet and 
 lovely. Her husband, a most polite and accom- 
 plished gentleman, appeared to leave nothing un- 
 done to promote her happiness ; but it was too 
 evident that the want of a mother's loving coun- 
 sel was felt. It seemed as if she could have ex- 
 claimed, in the beautiful lines of the poet, — 
 
 " Backward, turn backward, oh Time, in your flight! 
 Make me a child again, just for to-night. 
 Mother, come back from the echoless shore I 
 Take me again to your heart, as of yore.
 
 198 JOURNAL. 
 
 Kiss from my forehead the furrows of care, 
 And smooth the brown locks, once ringlets so fair. 
 Slumber's soft calm o'er my heavy lids creep, — 
 Bock me to sleep, mother, rock me to sleep. 
 
 " Come, let your brown hair, just lighted with gold, 
 Fall on my shoulders again, as of old ; 
 Let it drop over my forehead to-night, 
 Shading my faint eyes away from the light ; 
 For, with its sunny edge shadows once more, 
 Happy will linger the visions of yore ; 
 Lovingly soft, its bright billows sweep, — 
 Kock me to sleep, mother, rock me to sleep." 
 
 THE ANSWEK. 
 
 " My child, my child, thou art weary to-night ; 
 Thy spirit is sad, and dim is the light ; 
 Thou longest again for my loving care, 
 For my kiss on thy lips, for my hand on thy hair ; 
 But angels around thee their loving watch keep ; 
 And angels, my child, will rock thee to sleep. 
 
 " Thou shouldst not weary, my child, by the way ; 
 But watch for the light of that brighter day. 
 Count not thy trials or efforts in vain ; 
 They will bring the light of thy childhood again. 
 Tire not of sowing, for others to reap; 
 For angels, my child, will rock thee to sleep. 
 
 " Nearer thee now, than in days that are flown ; 
 Purer the lovelight encircling thy home ;
 
 OLD ACQUAINTANCES. 199 
 
 Far more enduring the watch for to-night, 
 Than e'en a mother's presence, away from this light. 
 Soon the dark shadows will linger no more, 
 Nor come, at thy call, from the opening door; 
 But know thou, my child, that angels watch keep ; 
 And soon, very soon, will rock thee to sleep." 
 ****** 
 
 What seemed an additional weight of care on 
 the mind of this young creature was, they had 
 one darling little girl, a rosebud of six years, the 
 pride and sunbeam of the household, whom they 
 were going to take to England to be educated, 
 and leave her with her husband's family, prob- 
 ably for many years, — schools, such as they 
 thought suitable, could not be found on the 
 island. They were to embark in a short time. 
 We parted from them with much regret, and 
 could but hope we might meet again. 
 
 During the time of our stay with them they 
 drove us through different parts of the island. 
 We went out on the savanna, a beautiful spot, 
 where stands a neat cottage, which had been 
 built, not long before, for the reception of the 
 Prince of Wales. 
 
 I omitted to mention that Conrad F. Stoll- 
 meyer called upon us, soon after our arrival on
 
 200 JOURNAL. 
 
 the island. He married a daughter of Jacob 
 Snyder, of Philadelphia. He heard of us from 
 the manager of the London and Colonial Bank, 
 in Trinidad, and on mentioning our names to his 
 wife, she recollected that my dear husband had 
 attended her mother in her illness, in years gone 
 by. She requested her husband to call on us, 
 which he did. He informed us that he had 
 edited a newspaper in Philadelphia, some years 
 since, advocating Abolition views, and received 
 much reproach in consequence; that he was in 
 Philadelphia at the time the Pennsylvania Hall 
 was burned, &c. We found him a very communi- 
 cative man, and highly intelligent; presuming 
 from what we heard, that he was president of the 
 Pitch Lake Company, and engaged in a general 
 commission business. A very pressing invitation 
 was sent by the wife to take tea with them the 
 next evening, which we accepted. 
 
 That day we had driven through a mountain- 
 ous country, along Maraval Valley, the wild- 
 est and most picturesque scenery we beheld on 
 any of the islands. This valley has a reser- 
 voir, that supplies the town with water. We 
 fulfilled our promise with the Stollmeyers, and 
 took tea with them. We spent a couple of hours
 
 COOLIES. 201 
 
 very agreeably, and found them highly interest- 
 ing people, and were conducted to our lodgings 
 by father and son, who promised to see us on 
 board of the steamer next morning. They ac- 
 cordingly called, and having engaged a boat for 
 our use, we were placed on board in good 
 time. Our visit to this interesting family will 
 long be held in remembrance. They gave us 
 some beautiful specimens of minerals, and nut- 
 megs, cinnamon, and vanilla beans, all produc- 
 tions of the island. Since our return we have 
 been in correspondence with them. 
 
 The people on this island, proprietors of plan- 
 tations, brought over large numbers of Coolies, 
 many years ago, but of whom they now appear 
 to be heartily sick, — many of them being im- 
 moral in their habits and extremely idle. We 
 saw them in considerable numbers lounging care- 
 lessly about under the trees, appearing to do 
 nothing for their own support. The Islanders 
 would be glad to encourage emigration from the 
 United States, as a great portion of their island 
 is uncultivated. It is thought the example of 
 the Coolies has had a very deleterious eifect upon 
 the people of color, and they wish to rid them- 
 selves of them, if possible. The population of 
 
 18
 
 202 JOURNAL. 
 
 colored people does not seem sufficient to culti- 
 vate that island, which is the cause of their de- 
 sire to promote emigration. "We heard of no 
 unkind treatment to the freed people, and saw 
 less degradation than on any other island we vis- 
 ited, except Barbadoes. The Port of Spain is 
 rather a clean and pretty city for the West In- 
 dies. Main Street, with four rows of trees, and 
 fountains, with a cathedral at the upper end 
 standing in the centre, makes quite a handsome 
 appearance. The houses are two stories, with 
 stores below, dwellings above; with verandas, 
 which make them cool and pleasant. There is a 
 square, with trees and walks, opposite the public 
 buildings, and the citizens' dwellings are scat- 
 tered throughout the city and environs. The 
 Governor's house forms a place of attraction. 
 It is a large and pretty building. The Ice House 
 is a place of great note for anything desired in 
 the way of delicacies. The proprietor told us 
 the ice business alone would be a poor concern, 
 but when connected with other things, it is made 
 to answer a good purpose. We saw but little of 
 the improvements of the island. 
 
 Pitch Lake is a place of attraction ; a large 
 collection of asphaltum is constantly collecting;
 
 PORT OF SPAIN. 203 
 
 in many places it is hard enough to bear a horse 
 and rider, in others there is water flowing. The 
 pitch is in a fluid state. 
 
 The staples here, as on the other islands, are 
 sugar, molasses, and rum. Some cotton and 
 coffee are raised, but sugar is the great staple.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Barbadoes — St. Vincent — Burial at Sea — Martinique 
 — Dominica — Guadaloupe — Antigua — St. Kitt's — Re- 
 turn to St. Thomas. 
 
 Fourth month, 24th, 1864. On first clay morn- 
 ing, at six o'clock, we left for the ship, and got 
 under way for St. Thomas about eight o'clock 
 a. m., directing our course west to Grenada, 
 reaching the town about five o'clock. The cap- 
 tain visited his family, whilst the ship remained 
 at anchor until twelve o'clock, when we again 
 got under way. 
 
 The harbor is surrounded with high hills, and 
 has in front a rock, on which stands a fortifica- 
 tion that shuts the harbor out from view of the 
 sea, making it as clear as a river. It is a very 
 mountainous island, with little appearance of cul- 
 ture along the sea-coast. Through the interior 
 sugar, cocoa, and cotton are cultivated. 
 
 As in most other places, the poor colored man 
 is here in degradation , held up as lazy and worth- 
 less, and always spoken of as little above the
 
 INTOLERANCE. 205 
 
 brutes, and only fit for servants, — views we could 
 not entertain. In our conversations with the 
 whites and mulattoes, who were as intolerant of 
 color as the whites, we constantly maintained 
 that the treatment they received from the higher 
 classes, as they called themselves, tended to de- 
 grade them in their own estimation, and although 
 there were many exceptions to this rule, yet they 
 must acknowledge their habits and want of self- 
 respect kept them in a wretched and degraded 
 state, and that the conduct of the whites towards 
 them, tended to establish it; while kindness and 
 Christian counsel and assistance would promote 
 different feelings, and induce them to rise in the 
 scale of human existence. 
 
 Many were the conversations we had with the 
 would-be lords of the Caribees against the course 
 they were pursuing towards them. A man and 
 his wife, who came on board at Grenada, under- 
 took to defend them, saying they were an idle, 
 worthless set of beings; that it was force only 
 that induced them to labor, and they would 
 never be anything else but degraded. We told 
 them we believed it under their present system. 
 He then said, " You do not suppose we get 
 along here without whipping, do you ? If you 
 
 18*
 
 206 JOURNAL. 
 
 do, you are greatly mistaken ?" I told him I did 
 not suppose that barbarity was still practised ; he 
 said it is, and on other islands too, and it's all 
 right. He then turned to me and said, "Are you 
 writing a book?" I said, I can scarcely answer 
 that question. He then said, " Do you suppose 
 you are capable of giving a correct account of 
 the West India Islands the little time you have 
 been on them?" Without answering his ques- 
 tion, I asked him if he thought, had he been six 
 months in the United States, and a close observer 
 of all that he saw or heard, whether he would 
 consider himself possessed of sufficient informa- 
 tion to write a book ? His answer was " I don't 
 know." I told him I thought it was very easy 
 to know. I then reminded him of one of their 
 countrywomen, Harriet Martineau, who went fly- 
 ing through the United States a few years ago, 
 and with telegraphic speed, and it appears she 
 was able to write a book, and thought she had 
 become thoroughly conversant with the manners 
 and customs of the people of the United States, 
 and every incident connected therewith, and I 
 think the time was very short she spent in Amer- 
 ica. They soon left us, and we saw no more of 
 them.
 
 THE VOYAGE. 207 
 
 We arrived at St. Vincent at six o'clock a. m. ; 
 we did not land at this time, the steamer only re- 
 maining long enough to change the mail. Leav- 
 ing about seven o'clock, we directed our course to 
 Barbadoes, in the harbor of which we arrived at 
 seven o'clock p. m., but did not go ashore. 
 
 We had been extremely seasick nearly all the 
 passage from Trinidad to this port, which makes 
 one feel wretchedly, and not unfrequently calls 
 forth the exclamation, " Oh ! if I ever reach land 
 again, this will be my last sea-voyage." Such a 
 conclusion is often like writing in the sand; and 
 when again seated on deck, with interesting com- 
 pany of a moonlight evening, and the sea calm 
 and beautiful, we more often say, "What a lux- 
 ury ! how charming a moonlight evening at sea!" 
 
 Fourth month, 25th, 1864. — A fine shower of 
 rain fell through the night, which refreshed the 
 atmosphere. Here we were joined by an acces- 
 sion of passengers, among the number our young 
 friend A. G. Ward, the minister at Sprightstown, 
 on his return to England. By him we received a 
 note from Clarissa Hurd, whose delicate health 
 prevented her from coming on board, as was an- 
 ticipated, to bid us farewell. 
 
 We had on the ship a number of sick soldiers,
 
 208 JOURNAL. 
 
 whom we had brought on from one of the other 
 islands. It was soon ascertained one of them 
 was likely to die. That evening young Ward 
 was summoned to his bedside. He told us on 
 his return the man seemed entirely tranquil, and 
 desired to go home, then saying, "I expect to 
 meet my wife in Heaven;" he said but little 
 more before he closed his eyes in death. His 
 remains were then wrapped in a tarred sail-cloth, 
 and next morning at eight o'clock preparations 
 were made for the funeral. Everything was re- 
 moved from the lower deck near the wheel- 
 house ; a bier was placed upon the platform that 
 overhangs the sea, on which the remains were 
 deposited, with the English colors thrown over 
 it. All the sailors were dressed in their best 
 attire — I think in white. It was truly a most 
 solemn and imposing scene. The passengers 
 stood around, all who were able to come on 
 deck, where sorrow could be seen on every face. 
 Our humane and dignified captain read the 
 church service in a most impressive manner, and 
 when he came to that part of the service, "We 
 commit dust to dust, and ashes to ashes," he 
 changed the words, by saying, " We commit this 
 body to the deep," when some of the officers that
 
 BURIAL AT SEA. 209 
 
 stood near the bier gently allowed it to slide 
 noiselessly from its place, without even removing 
 the colors. A dash was heard in the sea — the 
 waves had swallowed up the lifeless remains — 
 the sea had received its dead, aud all was over! 
 I cast my eyes around over the passengers and 
 sailors, and believed there was not one in whose 
 eye the tear did not gather; all were made to 
 feel that this man, too, was their brother. It 
 was with some difficulty the tender-spirited com- 
 mander could read the service, he seemed to feel 
 so deeply the solemnity of the occasion. For my- 
 self, I had often heard of " burials at sea," but 
 none can form an adequate conception of the 
 solemnity that comes over every mind when the 
 sad scene is carried out in their midst. We are 
 led to reflect on the short life of man, the termi- 
 nation of all his designs and hopes, the silence 
 that now reigns over him, who a little while ago 
 was so busy and so gay. The end of all things 
 here is vividly portrayed on such an occasion. 
 Home and friends the lone one hoped soon to 
 meet ; all had to be given up ; the mandate of 
 Death had gone forth, and would not be denied. 
 I rejoiced in spirit to find that his hopes were 
 fixed on that higher life beyond the narrow con-
 
 210 JOURNAL. 
 
 fines of the grave ; that his spirit would witness 
 a transition to that blest abode where angels 
 only dwell, and years have no ending ! There 
 we will leave this solemn scene. 
 
 26th. Leaving Barbadoes and its harbor about 
 three o'clock p.m., we passed on to Castries, the 
 town of entry to St. Lucia, at six o'clock p.m., 
 and after a short trip passed St. Pierre, in Mar- 
 tinique, about twelve o'clock at night. It is one 
 of the French islands, and said to be in a better 
 state of cultivation than most of the English 
 ones. Thence to the Island of Dominica, which 
 is a small place, by five o'clock a.m. ; thence to 
 Bastaire, on the Island of Guadaloupe, which is 
 also held by the French, by ten o'clock. It is 
 an old-looking place, standing on the harbor, 
 with a boulevard and ornamental trees, giving 
 it an airy and pleasant appearance. The country 
 is hilly, but we saw in passing along the coast 
 more of cultivation than in some of the other 
 islands. We came again to the English harbor 
 of Antigua at five o'clock p.m. "We passed St. 
 Kitt's at six o'clock p.m., and landed our friend 
 Ward at twelve o'clock at night. 
 
 Continuing our passage, we arrived in the har- 
 bor of St. Thomas at three o'clock p.m., having
 
 ST. THOMAS. 211 
 
 been extremely sick during the passage from 
 Trinidad. We now bade adieu to our kind Cap- 
 tain Hole and crew of the Thames, with whom 
 we had been agreeably associated for one month 
 among the Caribee Islands and South America. 
 
 We found here our faithful boatman, as on 
 former occasions, ready to take us on shore, and 
 went directly to the Commercial. Our landlord 
 had been apprised of our coming, and had a 
 room ready for us. Our old waiter, John Shil- 
 ling, we found here, as well as the kind colored 
 housekeeper, Martina. We remained at this 
 place until the vessel was ready to sail for Ber- 
 muda. Finding Captain Watlington at this port, 
 he gave us an account of some of our fellow- 
 boarders at Santa Cruz, who had gone on to the 
 United States, — among these Dr. Henderson and 
 wife from New Jersey, and Shotwell from New 
 York, of whom we have spoken. 
 
 The day following our arrival numbers of our 
 fellow-boarders came on from Santa Cruz to 
 St. Thomas; among them Breneman, wife and 
 daughter, from Pennsylvania, Dr. Shippen, 
 mother and sister, from Philadelphia, with a 
 highly respectable colored man in attendance, 
 all waiting for a passage to the United States.
 
 212 JOURNAL. 
 
 Some of them sailed before our steamer was 
 ready, and others followed after us. 
 
 As we were detained on the island awaiting 
 the steamer, we concluded one morning to ascend 
 its highest peak. It required two hours for us 
 to walk up. On the way we stopped many times 
 to admire beautiful shrubs, wild flowers, and or- 
 namental trees that skirted either side of the 
 road. To our surprise we saw on many of the 
 trees huge protuberances, some of them of great 
 size, one being two feet in diameter. They re- 
 sembled a black bag. Some were suspended 
 from the trees, others snugly fastened among the 
 limbs, and others again were near the roots of 
 the trees. We could not imagine what they 
 were, as we had never seen anything of the kind 
 before. Each of us having a stick, we thought 
 we would give one near the foot of the tree a 
 little strike, when lo and behold ! out jumped an 
 innumerable army of ants, like grasshoppers for 
 multitude, as they could not be numbered. They 
 ran to and fro, and seemed disposed to make war 
 upon us, as we had attacked their strong citadel, 
 and fearing their anger we hastened from them 
 with much speed. 
 
 The mountain which we ascended I think must
 
 ANTS. 213 
 
 be many thousand feet above the principal part 
 of the town. On the top of the highest peak we 
 found a splendid dwelling, the habitation of some 
 of the aristocracy who have passed away. The 
 place looked as if little interest was manifested 
 in keeping it in order ; every part seemed dilapi- 
 dated. We wandered about some time among: 
 the rocky cliffs. We saw no one about save an 
 old colored cook; but on descending met several 
 young men on horseback going up the declivity. 
 The aged woman told us they had rented the 
 premises for a retreat during the hottest part of 
 the season, when liberated from business. It is 
 considered a great feat for strangers to ascend to 
 the top. In our descent we were very careful 
 not to place ourselves in battle array with the 
 army of ants we met in ascending. 
 
 It reminded us of the army of ants we saw in 
 Cuba, six miles out of Havana, where we went 
 on an excursion with a friend from the British 
 Provinces. Those were far more docile; for 
 although we disturbed their repose in their quiet 
 resting-place, they seemed entirely harmless, com- 
 ing out a living army, walking with nice precis- 
 ion Indian file, each with a complete umbrella 
 over his head. This seems almost an incredible 
 
 19
 
 214 JOURNAL. 
 
 relation, but has been given with strict regard to 
 truth. 
 
 We called each other to the novel scene, and 
 examined carefully of what the umbrellas con- 
 sisted, and found them to be a piece of delicate 
 leaf over every head. These were the large 
 black ants. Does it not wonderfully illustrate 
 the wise provision made by the Creator for all his 
 creatures, giving even the little emmet tribe suf- 
 ficient reason, or instinct, to build houses and 
 shield themselves from the tropical sun, as well 
 as to provide sustenance to sustain life ? 
 
 We are still waiting here for a vessel to sail to 
 Bermuda, and the people were desirous we should 
 be present at another of their meetings; we have 
 concluded to assemble with them at Cocoanut 
 Square. 
 
 There was a great concourse of people gath- 
 ered, from white to ebony. After a solemn pause 
 the subject was illustrated — "He is a free man 
 whom the truth makes free, and all are slaves 
 beside," desiring the people to reflect how this 
 text should be applied; and now that the chains 
 of bodily servitude had been broken, did they 
 sufficiently appreciate the sacred boon of liberty, 
 or did they abuse it by habits of intemperance,
 
 A SERMON. 215 
 
 idleness, and debauchery? Although this was 
 the result of the slave system, and they were 
 laboring under great disadvantages, yet all peo- 
 ple had it in their power to be moral, and 
 refrain from habits of intemperance; that I 
 noticed in the first story of our hotel, on one 
 side a place of business, a tailor shop, where 
 many were industriously engaged, with little in- 
 termission, from early morn to darksome night, 
 accumulating substance against a time of need; 
 while on the other side was a miserable grog- 
 shop, where drinking, carousing, and swearing, 
 was the programme for each succeeding day. 
 We saw them staggering from the door into the 
 streets, ready for any kind of violence that might 
 come in their way. 
 
 I also interrogated the whites whether they 
 had used the sacred boon of freedom as God had 
 ordained? Had they set an example for the 
 people of color worthy of imitation ? Had those 
 high in the scale of human existence reached out 
 a friendly hand for their help ? Had they lifted 
 the heavy burden from their shoulders and said, 
 Arise and stand upon your feet ? It was found 
 this had not been the case, but they had allowed 
 the downtrodden to continue in their degrada-
 
 216 JOURNAL. 
 
 tion, without much feeling on the subject. The 
 meeting closed under a feeling of much solem- 
 nity; many came to take us by the hand, and 
 express their gratitude. 
 
 Before leaving the island we paid a visit to E.. 
 Swift and daughter, and to the American consul 
 and wife. 
 
 The steamer for Bermuda did not arrive until 
 the tenth. "We went on board and found but 
 few passengers, and were well accommodated. 
 There was a sick gentleman on board, a resident 
 of St. Thomas. Our steamer is called the Alpha, 
 Captain Hunter. We weighed anchor at three 
 and a half o'clock, and after getting out of the 
 harbor, directed our course northward, with a 
 fair wind from southeast. We glided along, at 
 the rate of nine knots, for our destined port, 
 Bermuda, passing several small, barren islands 
 along the main Island of St. Thomas, until night 
 appeared, and we again retiring endeavored to 
 crave the protection of Him who suffereth not a 
 sparrow to fall to the ground without His notice, 
 and, resigning ourselves to His almighty care, 
 sank to rest. 
 
 Our passengers consisted of Isabella Grinnell, 
 wife of Robert Grinnell, of the firm of Grinnell
 
 BERMUDA. 217 
 
 & Minturn, now in the army ; a young man from 
 St. Thomas, one of our company, whom we 
 found a very agreeable person, was on his way to 
 Philadelphia to consult a surgeon in reference to 
 a diseased jaw. He paid us a visit at our own 
 house, during his stay in this city. Weather was 
 fine on our voyage, but sea rough, and we were 
 both very seasick. We spoke the ship Rio, go- 
 ing to Baltimore. 
 
 14th. Rained hard through the day and night. 
 It was quite cool, requiring a change of clothing; 
 our latitude 28° 30' ; wind southeast. Both are 
 so seasick, we made up our minds we would 
 have enough of the sea, if we reached home 
 once more. 
 
 Wind continues fair, temperature cool, and 
 steering forward on our way, we expect to get 
 into harbor by twelve o'clock. Took a pilot 
 about eleven o'clock. 
 
 The day is damp and foggy. As we ap- 
 proach St. George, Bermuda, we discovered a 
 group of islands, green and beautiful, but with- 
 out culture. We enter the harbor of St. George 
 through a narrow frith, and coming to anchor 
 about twelve o'clock m., landed in a small 
 boat, and making our way up to Hayward's Ho* 
 
 19*
 
 218 JOURNAL. 
 
 tel, found we could not be accommodated, and 
 were referred to the other hotel, which looked 
 dark and uncomfortable. Meeting with some 
 of the boarders, who looked like blockade-run- 
 ners, we felt glad when told we could not be 
 accommodated, as they also were full. My 
 dear husband went in pursuit of a carriage to 
 convey us to Hamilton. As a favor, procured 
 one sufficiently large to take ourselves and bag- 
 • gage. Stopping at the post-office, we received 
 several letters from our friends, giving us much 
 intelligence, our friends generally well, with one 
 or two exceptions, and anxiously looking for our 
 return. 
 
 We soon ascertained that Thomas W. Godet, 
 who resides near Hamilton, was doing business 
 in this place. We made ourselves known to him, 
 and he immediately urged our acceptance of a 
 visit to his mother. Our ride was along the 
 margin of the sea, — oleanders, in great beauty, 
 skirting the road on either side. We rode about 
 twelve miles to the house of his mother. We 
 found her a most kind and hospitable woman, 
 who, with her three lovely daughters and the 
 promising young man who accompanied us, with 
 two little boys, did all in their power to make it 
 agreeable to us.
 
 BERMUDA. 219 
 
 We also visited her daughter and husband, by 
 the name of Darrell, on the opposite side of the 
 island, son of Chief Justice Darrell, at whose 
 house we visited, — a fine location, not far from 
 Hamilton. We spent one week with our friends 
 on this island. 
 
 19th. Spent one day at Elizabeth Aletta 
 Doyle's, who lives in a fine house on the south 
 side, on a high hill, a half mile off. 
 
 20th. Thermometer 70°; windy and a little 
 rain. Visited the Cove, and spent the evening 
 at Dr. Gilbert's, very agreeably. 
 
 21st. We were taken to the lighthouse by Dr. 
 Harvey, and after returning, occupied the re- 
 mainder of the day in getting our baggage on 
 board the Henrietta, preparatory to sailing to- 
 morrow morning.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Farewell — The Kettjrn Home. 
 
 22d. First day. We took leave of our friends 
 in the most affectionate manner, the young man 
 accompanjdng us to the boat, and remaining with 
 us most of the day, as we did not sail before next 
 morning at twelve o'clock. The passengers be- 
 ing all on board, the wind north and dead ahead, 
 and tide against us, we could not pass the bar 
 before morning. In the evening we held a very 
 satisfactory meeting on board. The subject of 
 practical righteousness was illustrated. We re- 
 tired to rest and slept soundly. 
 
 Our cargo consisted of potatoes, tomatoes, 
 and onions, creating a great heat and unpleasant 
 odor, making many very sick. 
 
 We had been on board one week previous to 
 sailing, in order to choose our state-rooms, when 
 there is no doubt I contracted disease from the 
 bad odor of the vessel, it being appropriated to
 
 ILLNESS ON BOARD. 221 
 
 carrying vegetables. It was the only vessel in 
 which we could procure a passage. 
 
 Soon after I was on board I was attacked with 
 bilious fever, and was extremely ill during the 
 whole of the passage, so that my dear husband 
 thought my recovery very doubtful. There had 
 been much said in the hearing of myself and hus- 
 band relative to committing corpses to the sea, 
 which gave him great concern, so much so, that he 
 afterward told me his spirit almost died within 
 him. I did not recover from the fever for many 
 long months after my return home. 
 
 On leaving Bermuda we passed numerous 
 little islands in the bay and over the shoals that 
 obstruct the channel, passing the lighthouse on 
 one side and the dockyard on the other. It 
 is situated on Ireland Island. These works are 
 extensive, and constitute the great attraction of 
 visitors, having cost the government an immense 
 amount of money, and consist of a magnifi- 
 cent dockyard and penitentiary for convicts. 
 They are now mostly abandoned and kept for 
 the repair of government steamers, and a barracks 
 for soldiers. Fine specimens of agate are found 
 around this dockyard. 
 
 Necessity compelled us to go round the island,
 
 222 JOURNAL. 
 
 and passing the Georgetown Heights and fort, we 
 landed our pilot, and continued our course on the 
 west side of the island, passing the lighthouse 
 on our right, took our course northward for New 
 York. 
 
 The wind was gentle, and the sea calm, so that 
 on third day, the twenty-fourth, at four o'clock, 
 the lighthouse was still visible. 
 
 30th. Second day. Now eight days since we 
 came on board. Nothing remarkable has taken 
 place, save the very general sickness of the pas- 
 sengers, and variable weather, head winds, stiff 
 breezes, rough sea, &c, &c, I myself being very 
 ill most of the trip. Thermometer leaving Ber- 
 muda, seventy-two ; to-day it is sixty-eight. 
 
 The Island of Bermuda, or rather, the princi- 
 pal one among them, where we spent most of 
 our time during our stay, looks fertile and ap- 
 pears well adapted to the cultivation of grain, 
 vegetables, and fruits. To our surprise, very 
 little is cultivated, except a few kinds of vege- 
 tables, which they carry to New York as some of 
 the earliest of the season. We felt satisfied if 
 any encouragement was given to induce the freed 
 people to industry, by allowing them to cultivate 
 as much land as their capabilities would admit,
 
 THE FREEDMEN. 223 
 
 it would be but a short time before plenty would 
 crown their labors, which might be dispensed to 
 every part of the island. They now depend 
 on the United States, or Europe, for most of 
 their supplies. "We saw great tracts of country 
 entirely uncultivated, grown over with a very in- 
 ferior kind of cedar, while great numbers of the 
 freed people remained in idleness and degrada- 
 tion. This ought not so to be. All might be 
 made comfortable, thriving, and happy, if the 
 right course was pursued by those who have it 
 in their power. We saw clearly the cause of the 
 poverty-stricken condition of the island. None 
 need wonder that so many young men seek other 
 homes, while no inducements are held out for 
 them to remain, — no business of any account 
 being done there, and the folly of caste was too 
 apparent. This will have to be laid aside. Peo- 
 ple must be valued for their worth and virtues. 
 The American people have had to learn hard 
 lessons on this subject; many of them written in 
 letters of blood. I hope it will not be so on any 
 of the islands, but it seemed to us the measure 
 of iniquity was, on some we visited, wellnigh 
 full. 
 
 We passed a bark off St. George's Bluffs,
 
 224 JOURNAL. 
 
 going to Bermuda, in which our fellow boarder 
 Shotwell, and Dr. Henderson, took passage a 
 month since. On board poor Shotwell died. 
 
 31st. Quite cool ; mercury 62° ; fine breeze. 
 The day turned out fine, the wind favorable, and 
 we made good sail, and saw land at five and a 
 half o'clock p. m., and took pilot about six o'clock 
 p. m. The wind soon died away, and we moved 
 moderately through the night; nevertheless, it 
 brought us to the Hook at six o'clock. Ther- 
 mometer 67°, and prospect of a fine day. 
 
 We rose in time to see Staten Island in all its 
 gayety and beauty. The green hills, fine dwell- 
 ings and improved grounds, were in such striking 
 contrast to what we had seen, that I had to re- 
 mark, after all, we have seen nothing half equal- 
 ling the beauty now before us. 
 
 We soon took the pilot on board, and next the 
 harbor-master, and arrived at Pier 27, foot of 
 Vesey Street, about six o'clock a. m., where we 
 had to wait for the custom-house oflicer until past 
 one o'clock p. m. After being released by him, 
 took carriage, and had our baggage and effects 
 taken to the station for Philadelphia, at the foot 
 of Camden Street Wharf, and at four o'clock 
 found ourselves on the railroad for Philadelphia,
 
 HOME. 225 
 
 where we arrived at eight and a half o'clock p.m. 
 Found our house all prepared for our reception, 
 and friends to receive us, and with thankful 
 hearts rejoiced in our safe arrival at our own 
 home, amidst our many dear friends. 
 
 My own health, after leaving the ship, became 
 better; but my dear husband's continued good, 
 never being confined to his bed a day during our 
 travels. I subjoin a letter written by him to our 
 hostess at St. Croix. 
 
 Philadelphia, Sixth mo. 4th, 1864. 
 Elizabeth Brady. 
 
 Esteemed Friend : It was a very pleasant morning on 
 the first of June, that we entered the Narrows in the Bay of 
 New York, Staten Island on the left and Long Island on the 
 right, commanding the narrow frith over which is mounted a 
 number of large implements of defence, calculated to hurl death 
 and destruction to any who dare attempt to invade our country. 
 As we looked over the beautiful hills and elegant mansions that 
 are scattered all over the island, I was ready to cry out, " Never 
 have I seen in foreign lands anything to compare to the beauty 
 of the scene before me. ' ' Truly, it is a magnificent sight of hills 
 and vales, splendid mansions, green fields and highly culti- 
 vated, with lawns, with copses of trees and shrubbery taste- 
 fully intertwined, giving grace and beauty to the splendid 
 mansions that adorn the island. Then on entering New York, 
 at the foot of Vesey Slip, where a market is held for the better 
 accommodation of shippers and farmers' craft, we see a great 
 
 20
 
 226 JOURNAL. 
 
 variety of meats and vegetables of the finest kinds, which 
 filled my soul with gratitude to the Author of all good for giv- 
 ing us a fruitful country, and inspiring our yeomanry with 
 industry and management to plant and reap such abundant 
 harvests. It is here we have the best of beef, mutton, veal, 
 pork, and poultry of every kind, potatoes, turnips, cabbage, 
 salad, peas, beans, asparagus, beets, radishes, tomatoes, and in- 
 numerable other vegetables that abound on every man's table. 
 There are all the fruits of the season, as strawberries, cher- 
 ries, apples, gooseberries, and other garden fruits, besides your 
 tropical fruits, far excelling anything we could get except in 
 Havana, such as oranges, lemons, bananas, pineapples, &c. 
 Thou may ask where are the sapodillas, sugar-apples, alligator 
 pears, water-lemons, &c. These tasteless things we leave for 
 islanders to luxuriate upon. Again contemplate with won- 
 der and admiration the city of New York, second to none 
 in magnificence and grandeur, containing over a million of 
 inhabitants, grown up to importance within two centuries, 
 and now tied to every part of the country by iron rails, on 
 which run with steaming swiftness innumerable cars, con- 
 veying men of business and pleasure through richly cultivated 
 countries, on which abounds wheat, corn, oats, grass, and all 
 kinds of produce fit for the consumption of man and beasts, 
 and you have but a faint picture of what we have returned to 
 enjoy. Nowhere is there to be found on this habitable earth 
 (that we have seen), so much to make man happy, with free- 
 dom of thought and liberty of action (with the exception of 
 one dark spot south), as this "land of freedom and of the 
 brave." 
 
 It is with deep concern that I state that my dear wife, on 
 leaving Bermuda, had on shipboard quite a smart attack of
 
 LETTER. 227 
 
 bilious fever ; as she recovered from it, and crossed the Gulf 
 Stream, she had a chill succeeded by fever and cough, which 
 caused my spirit to sink within me, though we live in hopes of 
 its only being temporary. 
 
 We have learned since arriving in New York, that Shotwell 
 died on his passage from Bermuda to New York, and that his 
 remains were conveyed to his friends. 
 
 "We left Bermuda on the twenty-second of fifth month, and 
 arrived on the first of sixth month, making our passage in ten 
 days, experiencing high winds and calms, turbulent and quiet 
 sea, sea-sickness and many deprivations, but our captain made 
 it as easy and comfortable as he could. We had on board fif- 
 teen passengers, and our cargo consisted of potatoes, onions, 
 tomatoes, and a few other vegetables. The odor was extremely 
 unpleasant, but we got along as well as the time, conveniences, 
 and circumstances would admit. Our best regards salute all 
 who may like to hear from us, including friend Dunlap, whose 
 kindness we shall always remember with gratitude, in which 
 my dear wife unites. And now adieu. 
 
 Thy friend, 
 
 J. Wilson Moore.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Conclusion. 
 
 Having returned to our friends and to our na- 
 tive land, from whom we had long been separated, 
 we found the ravages of war on the decrease; al- 
 though not yet terminated, everything appeared 
 far more favorable than when we left the coun- 
 try. At that time rebellion was rife in all the 
 South, and found many sympathizers in the North 
 and West. The Union people, the lovers of free- 
 dom, were very sanguine as to the result, not- 
 withstanding the horizon at many different times 
 was dark and portending, attended with the thun- 
 der of cannon and roar of artillery, and the loss 
 of great numbers of valuable lives, which caused 
 the spirits of many to die within them, not see- 
 ing what the end might be. But the masses of 
 the people felt assured they had a veteran at the 
 head of government, the friend of humanity, a 
 "good man and a just," who, with the Divine
 
 REFLECTIONS. 229 
 
 blessing, was capable of guiding the ship of state 
 to the peaceful and honorable port he and they 
 had ever kept full in view, until rebellion should 
 be crushed and made to " appear odious," even 
 to its perpetrators, while the fetters of the bonds- 
 men should be broken, and the oppressed and 
 downtrodden suffered to go free. All we, who 
 were anxiously watching for the dawn of that 
 day, were made to rejoice and give glory to Him 
 who can turn the " captivity of his people," by 
 instrumental means, when the intelligence reached 
 us, and went forth to all the inhabitants of the 
 land, proclaiming freedom the length and breadth 
 thereof, through our noble-souled President, Abra- 
 ham Lincoln. Our prayers and thanksgiving went 
 up to Heaven ! with high praises to Him who liv- 
 eth forever and ever, in that His arm had been 
 raised for the deliverance of the oppressed. 
 
 This proclamation brought about a wonderful 
 era in the history of the world. Above all is the 
 record, written in letters of gold, on the tablet 
 of the souls of the four millions proclaimed free ! 
 with " a Moses at their head, fleeing from the op- 
 pression of Pharaoh!" This proclamation called 
 them out of their graves to such a resurrection 
 as the world never saw; not all the annals of 
 
 20*
 
 230 JOURNAL. 
 
 history can furnish a parallel with it. Must we 
 not believe then that nothing short of a High 
 Hand and Outstretched Arm could have effected 
 a miracle of so great magnitude, so fraught with 
 justice and humanity, of these having been dead 
 to the world, but now called to come forth, to 
 stand up like men, and " lay aside their grave- 
 clothes." Large numbers of them had escaped 
 from the tyranny of their oppressors since the 
 commencement of the war, the natural result 
 that might have been anticipated by their short- 
 sighted oppressors as the sequel of their rebel- 
 lion. Numbers of them went, too, into the Union 
 army, and stood up like men, side by side, with 
 their white brethren, discharging, as the latter 
 say, their duties faithfully. Who can doubt the 
 working of miracles in the case of this people? 
 The child of liberty once carried through the 
 streets in effigy, in the city of Boston, placed in 
 a coffin covered with a black pall ! followed by 
 its mourning friends, who saw it deposited in the 
 grave yawning to receive it, scarcely supposing 
 it possible it could ever know a resurrection, 
 with public sentiment crying out on every hand, 
 " Crucify it, crucify it, it is not fit to live." God's 
 ways are higher than man's ways, and His
 
 REFLECTIONS. 231 
 
 thoughts higher than man's thoughts, oft bring- 
 ing about His own purposes, through the very 
 means man has designed for their overthrow. 
 For many long years was that holy child of lib- 
 erty entombed ! Few dared to raise a voice that 
 it would ever rise again. The African slave-trade 
 brought so much gain to the craftsman, that not 
 a dog dared to raise his tongue against it, while 
 its proceeds were bringing great wealth to the 
 North as well as South. England was being rich 
 through that channel, so that " the carpenter en- 
 couraged the goldsmith, and he that smoothed 
 with the hammer, him that smote the anvil," 
 until it was ready for the soldering, when they 
 fastened it with chains, with handcuffs and gags, 
 that it should not be moved. All this was done 
 in the open light of day, while the people stood 
 aghast and looked on in silence. Those were 
 dark days ! days in which the spirit of Antichrist 
 had great power, like the dragon of old, whose 
 tail drew the third part of professing Christen- 
 dom ; but his power could not continue ; it was 
 in the hands of the people, and for them to say 
 whether it should be crushed. 
 
 Who were to be pioneers in the great work ? 
 was the question that oft arose, but very quietly,
 
 232 JOURNAL. 
 
 among the friends of freedom. Perhaps Maria 
 Child was the first who wrote a work on the 
 subject when it was agitated. Her book was 
 able and full of truth, but the people were afraid 
 to read it ; it was sufficient to place the mark of 
 Cain on any one who had such a volume in his 
 house. Elias Hicks, one of the apostles of this 
 age, bore a strong testimony against this great 
 evil, not partaking of the unrequited labor of 
 slavery for a long feeries of years, and on his 
 deathbed, when past speaking, motioned to those 
 around him to remove some covering from his 
 bed that contained cotton brought from the Slave 
 States. Many others in the Society of Friends 
 have refrained, as well as he, from the use of 
 slave-grown labor. About this time Benjamin 
 Lundy, true to the cause, commenced the work, 
 but in great weakness, finding few who felt will- 
 ing to engage actively with him in it. At last 
 he determined on going to a foreign land with a 
 large number of the people of color, and there 
 by kindness and industry, under the hallowed 
 influence of freedom, show to the world what 
 could be done by this people under circumstances 
 favorable to liberty and equal rights. He de- 
 signed to give his whole soul to the work as a
 
 REFLECTIONS. 233 
 
 letter from him, now in my possession, will show; 
 but he did not live to perfect his philanthropic 
 and Christian enterprise. He saw it was out of 
 his power to carry out his project in this pro- 
 fessed " land of the free and home of the 
 brave." 
 
 Near this time William Lloyd Garrison, one of 
 the invincibles, came forward and enlisted in the 
 cause. He commenced to edit a paper on the 
 subject, under the most unfavorable circum- 
 stances, being poor himself, and occupying a 
 small house and shop. In order to write for his 
 paper he had to resort to a little retired closet 
 adjoining his small shop, where his labors were 
 continued until he had the paper ready for the 
 press, and when it came out it caused so great an 
 excitement that nothing but his life could pay the 
 penalty. He was accordingly dragged through 
 the streets of Boston with a rope around his 
 neck, after giving him a coat of tar and feathers, 
 and every other indignity that could be offered 
 him ; but it did not deprive him of life, as the 
 poor deluded people supposed it would. 
 
 A higher life was before him, and he, like all 
 other reformers, saw his course was up the rugged 
 Alpine rocks, with footprints marked with blood;
 
 234 JOURNAL. 
 
 but for all this he did not slacken his hand. His 
 noble soul, being the embodiment of freedom 
 and right, still stood forth undaunted, publishing 
 his paper amid showers of invective and abuse, 
 simply following that voice that leads its votaries 
 by a way they know not, until they are brought 
 to " a good land and a large, where there are 
 springs and pools of water." This has been ful- 
 filled to the letter with the pioneers of liberty! 
 
 We can trace that little band, who first enlisted 
 in this cause, from stage to stage as they pro- 
 gressed — 
 
 " Brave and undaunted in their Master's cause, 
 Bold in contending for Messiah's laws." 
 
 That was a day that tried men's souls ; " but the 
 friends of the holy child that had been put in the 
 sepulchre saw by the light of Bethlehem's star 
 that in God's own time it must have a resurrec- 
 tion ;" that its birth was in Divinity, undying in 
 its very nature ; that neither death, hell, or the 
 grave could hold it ; that angels watched over to 
 guard it until "death and hell should deliver up 
 its dead," having power to burst the bands of 
 death, to feel its new life, though " crucified in 
 spiritual Sodom in Egypt," where this divine life 
 and birth in all ages has met with a like fate. 
 The little band continued to increase. The
 
 REFLECTIONS. 235 
 
 darkness that had hung over the land seemed to 
 portend the dawning of a better day. They felt, 
 as they braved the rough sea of life and encoun- 
 tered all that the enemies of freedom could heap 
 upon them, so much greater would be their joy 
 when that port, long looked-for, should be gained. 
 These labored on amid floods of calumny that 
 were cast out of the mouth of the dragon, with- 
 out fear or dismay, no difficulties being too great 
 for them to encounter, no mob violence deterring 
 them from going steadily forward in the work. 
 
 Among these were both men and women, who 
 braved the current of public opinion. They had, 
 with heavy hearts, gone round the broken walls 
 of freedom like some in olden time. They saw 
 the gates, too, were burned with fire, while few 
 had yet come to the work ; the cry of those, like 
 Sanballat and Tobias, going forth on every hand, 
 that all their efforts to build the walls were so 
 weak and vain, that a "fox running thereon 
 would prostrate it to the ground." They heeded 
 not such discouraging views, although they often 
 encountered Foxes " no better than Herod." 
 They continued to work on, regardless of being 
 stigmatized as fanatics. They found it needful, 
 while building the walls, as Kehemiah did, to
 
 236 JOURNAL. 
 
 hold " the weapons of defence in one hand while 
 they built with the other," which weapons were 
 love to God and man. 
 
 Many of these might truly be called saviours 
 of their race, having thrown their whole souls in 
 the work. 
 
 Among these was the intrepid Lucretia Mott, 
 the persevering and whole-souled Esther Moore, 
 and a host of others, who engaged in the same 
 cause with them. Not fearing to be found at the 
 burning of Pennsylvania Hall, where an Aboli- 
 tion meeting was then being held, or where mobs 
 were gathered as they held their meetings at other 
 places ; or in court rooms, where poor downcast 
 fugitives were to be tried and condemned for en- 
 deavoring to gain their liberty. "Who can wonder 
 that war came? This last was considered a sin 
 of the deepest dye, and worthy of death. These 
 noble women followed them in the dark recesses 
 where they were oft secreted for a sham trial, 
 and in almost every instance sent back again 
 into slavery. These friends of humanity re- 
 mained by their side, striving to pour balm into 
 their afflicted hearts, telling them a better day was 
 coming, — little thinking this better day would 
 come in this generation. The writer of this has
 
 REFLECTIONS. 237 
 
 been present with them on such occasions. These 
 were called fools, as well as madmen, while their 
 souls glowed with the light of God's spirit. Not 
 only was this work progressing amid the tumult 
 and noise in the North, but it was carried on in 
 the far sunny South : 
 
 " Ordained to be the pride of lands, 
 Whose joyous spring should bloom as Eden, 
 And rivers sweep o'er golden sands." 
 
 But not without the risk of life or limb ; as 
 where freedom lies buried, all iniquity abounds. 
 No one who ventured there could indulge the 
 fond belief that he should return unscathed. To 
 this general rule there were exceptions; those 
 who would not harm the head of any one, and 
 whose kindness to the writer of this article will 
 never be forgotten. They were the opponents 
 of slavery — lawyers and judges — but they were 
 weak. Judge Bullock, of New Orleans, among 
 these, and lawyer Hen nan, both eminent in their 
 profession, were exceedingly kind to me after 
 my return from the calaboose, where I went with 
 my friends from the North and in company with 
 the mother of lawyer Hennan. We saw there 
 barbarities too shocking for humanity to perpe- 
 
 21
 
 238 JOURNAL. 
 
 trate, and which I shall ever regret were not 
 made public on my return; but it will not do to 
 look back, the great work is now before us. 
 
 The subject of emancipation found its way to 
 our legislative halls at an early day of the Aboli- 
 tion movement; but was found needful to bring 
 it before Congress or the Senate with great care, 
 as the slaveholders were sanguine in the belief 
 that the child of liberty had been buried so deep, 
 and " watch so strictly kept," that no legislative 
 action could penetrate the dark recesses where 
 they had laid the body, and where the seal of 
 compromise had been placed upon the stone at 
 the mouth of the sepulchre. 
 
 We see a parallel case with poor benighted 
 Cuba, as well as all the other islands where sla- 
 very now exists. They are all wallowing in 
 blood, dirt, and filth, while Catholicism and 
 priestcraft reign supreme, and the priests are 
 daily seen going to their devotions in long robes. 
 But God is just, and his justice will not forever 
 slumber. We oft asked each other the question, 
 are these ministers of Christ, who like the Apos- 
 tle Paul, felt that "necessity was laid upon him, 
 and woe would be unto him if he preached not 
 the Gospel ?" If they were ministers of the Word
 
 REFLECTIONS. 239 
 
 of God would they not be "preaching liberty to 
 the captives, and the opening of the prison house 
 to those that are bound?" and make it their 
 business to leave nothing undone to " unbind 
 heavy burdens, and let the oppressed go free ?" 
 to break every yoke, to inquire " of the Divine 
 oracle what they should do to be saved?" and 
 bring to mind the law of God, violated in their 
 hearts, both past and present, in holding the lives 
 of their fellow-creatures in the same way the}' 
 held their cattle, having no more regard for their 
 feelings of affection one for another, " than the 
 beasts that perish." 
 
 John Quincy Adams was the man for that day 
 and hour, but he could only bring in his views in 
 the most cautious manner possible, as it appeared 
 very likely his life would pay the penalty if he 
 persevered to any considerable extent. Not long 
 after this, other speeches were made, touching 
 the cause of freedom, but with caution, as all 
 knew that death, or the most violent measures, 
 would be used against any one who dared to 
 come forth bold!j T , and place the enormous crime 
 in its proper light. 
 
 The life of a Lovejoy was at that time sacri- 
 ficed on the altar of slavery. Many others met
 
 240 JOURNAL. 
 
 with the same fate, while our modest though 
 noble-souled Sumner, came out against the giant 
 cause, in strains of deeply inspired eloquence, at 
 different periods of the crusade, for which the 
 strongest invective was poured out upon him. 
 He heeded it not ; he knew the " cause was holy, 
 as well as the ground on which he stood." He 
 made many good and well-timed speeches on the 
 subject, calling the system " barbarous." Not 
 only Sumner stood forth, in those days of peril, 
 undaunted. Stevens well knew that " noble 
 ends required noble means" to carry them out. 
 These sons of the morning saw the bright light, 
 — the star of immortal glory, — high up in heav- 
 en, while God's work and image was being 
 desecrated before " the shrine of Moloch," and 
 galling fetters were on the American citizen, 
 whose cry has ever been, " Am I not a man and 
 brother?" Thaddeus Stevens has, for a long 
 series of years, been one of those whole-souled, 
 outspoken men ; he has stood as the champion of 
 liberty, advocating the cause of justice and hu- 
 manity, " firm as the Rock of Gibraltar." For 
 many years has this subject been treated in Con- 
 gress with much ability and zeal, and even at 
 this time the aged veteran is standing forth in
 
 REFLECTIONS. 241 
 
 our legislative halls, as in the vigor of youth, and 
 with strength of mind as in early manhood. I 
 have been watching his movements during the 
 past winter and have found him truly great. 
 
 If prayer will prove effective in holding him 
 to the warm hearts of the friends of justice and 
 right, he will still live on, pleading the cause of 
 injured innocence. But should the slender 
 thread of life, in the providence of God, be cut 
 asunder, may his mantle fall on one or many 
 spirits worthy to plead the cause he has so long 
 and so ably advocated. 
 
 Truly this is a wonderful age in which we of 
 this generation live, — an age of soul-stirring and 
 thrilling incidents^— ^an age of great discovery in 
 the arts and sciences. The submarine telegraph 
 being the topmost round on the ladder yet 
 reached, — daily bringing the occurrences and in- 
 cidents of foreign lands in connection with our 
 own; wonderfully calculated to promote peace 
 and happiness in every clime. Much more might 
 be said of science and the arts, but the present 
 must suffice. This is an age, too, of light and 
 shadow, which have been signally intermingled 
 in the cause of justice and the equal rights of 
 all; an age in which the most unusual course 
 
 21*
 
 242 JOURNAL. 
 
 has been pursued. In the passage of laws by our 
 last Congress, histor} 7 cannot furnish a parallel. 
 Little necessity has been felt for the co-operation 
 of the successor of our late dearly loved and 
 lamented President, whose spirit, as it winged 
 its flight to a higher sphere, seemed to rest on 
 many he left behind, whose light has shone, 
 since his departure, with greater lustre, seeming 
 to have caught the same inspiration as his mantle 
 fell. 
 
 His speech in Independence Hall, in our city 
 of Philadelphia, is now brought to mind, as he 
 was going on to Washington, before his inaugur- 
 ation : "If he was favored, after he was placed in 
 office, to lift the heavy burdens from the shoul- 
 ders of the oppressed, he should feel himself the 
 happiest of men ; but should he be unsuccessful 
 in his efforts to do this, he would much rather 
 suffer death on that spot." This was the whole- 
 souled man, and happy instrument in the hand of 
 God, in " proclaiming liberty thoughout the land, 
 to all the inhabitants thereof;" in unbinding 
 heavy burdens; and he was the man for that 
 "hour," — the right man in the right place — 
 letting the oppressed go free. Sad indeed is the 
 retrospect, and our hearts sicken ;it the thought,
 
 REFLECTIONS. 243 
 
 that his useful and valuable life was sacrificed to 
 pay the penalty for his devotion to the cause of 
 humanity. He was assassinated the spring fol- 
 lowing our return from the West Indies, at the 
 close of the late calamitous war, by those who 
 should have honored and reverenced him as the 
 deliverer of this great nation from the thral- 
 dom of slavery, without the shedding of a single 
 drop of blood. Had he lived, his deep and think- 
 ing mind would have kept those who called 
 themselves the " chivalry," so much in check, 
 that long ere this, in all probability, they would 
 have been sutficiently humbled to have come 
 back into the Union, with a sense of their folly 
 and madness in promoting rebellion, in order to 
 subdue the North, and carry their abominable 
 idol of slavery over its fair domain. But with 
 the encouragement received from our present in- 
 cumbent, they have tried in vain to throw off the 
 shame and mortification of their doings, he hav- 
 ing acted in concert with them in their wild 
 schemes again to bring about slavery in its 
 second advent; to bind fetters on the emancipa- 
 ted, or compel our government to pay a price for 
 them ; either of which would be unreasonable 
 and monstrous.
 
 244 JOURNAL. 
 
 Some of the States lately in rebellion have 
 concluded that " discretion is the better part of 
 valor," and are now submitting to the benign 
 laws enacted during the past winter by the late 
 Congress. Such a Congress, in the absence of a 
 President, as will astonish the world in all com- 
 ing time with its history. Such a Congress as 
 the fathers of the Revolution, great as they were, 
 were, in the estimation of the writer, weak in 
 comparison with the one just passed. Such a 
 Congress as has carried death and destruction to 
 slavery, by the powerful arm of legislation. 
 Their thrilling words of justice and humanity 
 have pierced the vitals of the rebels of the 
 South, as well as their sympathizers of the North, 
 like a " well-directed arrow from a bow." Such 
 a Congress as has caused the very ground on 
 which they stand to feel its shock, as of an earth- 
 quake, ready to swallow them up. Indeed, a vol- 
 canic shock has been felt by them, during the 
 last eventful session, while large numbers of 
 them felt its force in the speeches held forth, 
 with undaunted courage, by the venerable Stev- 
 ens, by a Sumner, a Howard, a Wilson, a 
 Wade, and a Butler, as well as our own William 
 D. Kelley, and many others who stood firm and
 
 REFLECTIONS. 245 
 
 unwavering in the cause of justice and right. 
 We love to linger over speeches so full of soul 
 that not one dark spot dims their lustre. 
 
 But how is it with the poor, fallen South ? 
 Those who said, not long since, the " man of 
 color had no rights that the white man was 
 bound to respect," which I readily admit to be 
 true while they deprive them of their God-given 
 rights. A change has come over their dreams ; 
 and the change is so great in their tone of feel- 
 .ing as to solicit the vote of the colored man, in 
 order to restore a lost reputation, and place them 
 where they were six years ago. Some of the 
 States have elected colored municipal officers, in- 
 stead of the whites ; the colored being now 
 eligible for any office in the gift of the people. 
 Even the most sanguine Abolitionist could not 
 have believed it possible that such a change 
 would have come over this nation in five short 
 years. Had any one prophesied such a state of 
 things would have been brought about in this 
 country, we should have said, perhaps, as one of 
 old, " If the Lord should make windows in heav- 
 en, might this thing be." But we see " with 
 God all things are possible;" that he has opened 
 the windows of heaven, and has poured out one
 
 246 JOURNAL. 
 
 of the greatest blessings upon this nation, while 
 he has ordained that the " transgressions of the 
 wicked shall correct them, and their backslidings 
 reprove them, — -justice and mercy being the habi- 
 tation of his throne." And now, at the time I 
 am writing, comes the intelligence from our State 
 Legislature, that all prohibition is removed rela- 
 tive to allowing colored persons to ride in our 
 city cars. For all which we praise and magnify 
 the great Being who " turns the captivity of his 
 people as the streams of the south." 
 
 I have written the foregoing article, not only 
 to diffuse correct information in some parts of 
 our own country, but think this work may find 
 its way in the "West Indies, and, possibly, in 
 South America; greatly desiring that it should 
 reach slave-land, on the Island of Cuba. They 
 will see what oppression and tj'ranny have done 
 for all lands, sooner or later. The sum of all 
 villanies is now in the zenith of its power on 
 that island. But it has but a short race to run ; 
 the sands in the glass are but few, and the meas- 
 ure of iniquity wellnigh full, as we saw it in 
 mental vision when there, and have oft seen it 
 since. The day of retribution is at hand, as they 
 that " bow not in mercy will bow in judgment."
 
 REFLECTIONS. 247 
 
 The "Babylon" slavery is destined to fall, and 
 it will there as certainly as it has in this land ; 
 and "great has been the fall," desolating the 
 Southern States with blood and carnage. Now, 
 poverty and famine are staring the people of the 
 South in the face; they are merely preserved 
 from starvation by begging from the Union 
 people of the North, against whom they have 
 been fighting. 
 
 The deluded slaveholders have brought them- 
 selves to poverty and disgrace, through cupidity 
 and wicked devices, to continue those they had so 
 long oppressed in perpetual slavery. Let this 
 condition of things be a warning to all who still 
 cling to the barbarous system. Remember a day 
 of retribution is at hand, when the judgments of 
 an offended God will be poured out upon all 
 those, while they will be the authors of their own 
 destruction, as this is the portion of the wicked. 
 Turn then from the evil of your ways and doings, 
 if happily you may find forgiveness through sin- 
 cere repentance. 
 
 Well may a lamentation be made over the 
 cities where slavery still reigns, as it was over 
 Jerusalem : " How oft would I have gathered 
 thee as a hen gathers her chickens under her
 
 248 JOURNAL. 
 
 wings, but thou wouldst not," therefore is thy 
 house left unto thee desolate, and the things that 
 belong to thy peace hidden from thine eyes. At 
 thy fall, as of Babylon of old, many will stand 
 afar off to see the smoke of thy burning, " weep- 
 ing and wailing, saying, Alas ! alas ! for this great 
 city," and the profitable traffic in slaves, which 
 has made so many rich through the abundance of 
 her slave labor, for no man buyeth her merchan- 
 dise any more. But all nations have partaken of 
 the wine she has mingled, flavored with the odor 
 of the sighs and groans heard on plantations un- 
 der the lash, from the den of the calaboose, in 
 painful separations, or on board slavers as they 
 pursued their course over the trackless ocean, 
 freighted with human flesh, with God's image in 
 their souls, to be offered for sale to monsters in 
 human shape, to men who heed God's law no 
 more than they "glorifying themselves and liv- 
 ing luxuriously," saying in their hearts, "I sit as 
 a queen, I am no widow, I shall see no sorrow." 
 " Therefore shall her plagues come in one day, 
 death, mourning, and famine, for strong is the 
 Lord God that judgeth her." " The fruits thy 
 soul lusted after are departed from thee, all that is 
 dainty and goodly has departed from thee;" and
 
 REFLECTIONS. 249 
 
 thy nefarious traffic in slaves has departed from 
 thee, which was thy great revenue. Many will cry 
 out, "Alas! for that great city, that was clothed 
 in fine linen, purple, and scarlet, and decked 
 with gold and precious stones, and pearls," pro- 
 cured by the slave trade, " for in one hour is so 
 great riches come to nought." As of old, many 
 will " cast dust on their heads, weeping and wail- 
 ing," while the " light of a candle shall be no more 
 seen in thee," lighted up by the abomination of 
 slavery; "neither the voice of the bridegroom, 
 nor that of the bride," decked with the proceeds 
 arising from twenty to twenty-two hours of un- 
 requited toil from the poor, hard-driven, down- 
 trodden slaves, while their sighs went up to 
 Heaven, with every passing gale, in prayer deep 
 and low for deliverance from the barbarism of 
 those who required this of them; the air being 
 tainted with the pestilential breath of slavery, 
 from sea to sea, and from the rivers to the very 
 ends of the earth. But thanks be to the great 
 Author of all good, in that our land is now the 
 land of liberty, and America an asylum for the 
 oppressed. 
 
 May we now and ever adopt this motto, 
 
 All hail to the Land of the Free ! 
 22
 
 MEMOIR 
 
 DOCTOR JOHN WILSON MOORE. 
 
 GEORGE TRUMAN, M.D.
 
 DOCTOR JOHN WILSON MOORE. 
 
 The memory of those with whom we have had 
 frequent intercourse, and whose qualities of mind 
 endeared them to us, seem to call after their de- 
 parture from our midst, for some proof that, in 
 their labors and walk in life, we remembered and 
 honored them because of their devotion to truth ; 
 to their endeavors for the improvement of their 
 race ; to their warm charities dispensed with lib- 
 eral hand ; to the general good which, like a light, 
 shone continually about them, giving proof that 
 they were way-marks for others, — "As a city, set 
 upon a hill, which cannot be hid." 
 
 It is with such feelings that we portray the life 
 of Doctor John Wilson Moore, believing that a 
 recurrence to some of the circumstances con- 
 nected with his earthly pilgrimage, may be the 
 means of promoting like action in others. 
 
 He was born in Talbot County, on the Eastern 
 22*
 
 254 M EMOIR. 
 
 Shore of Maryland, twelfth month, 17th, 1789. 
 His parents were Robert and Mary "Wilson Moore. 
 His father emigrated in 1783 from Ireland in his 
 younger life, and settled in that part of Mary- 
 land. Having been bred a physician, he engaged 
 in the practice of his profession in the neighbor- 
 hood of Easton, where the subject of our memoir 
 passed his earlier life. There was nothing strik- 
 ingly peculiar that marked the period of his 
 youth other than a sweet and an amiable disposi- 
 tion, which endeared him to those of every class 
 with whom he mingled. 
 
 In 1807 he entered the Pennsylvania Hospital, 
 in Philadelphia, as a pupil of medicine ; it being 
 the custom at that time to receive such, for in- 
 struction in that institution. During tins noviti- 
 ate he pursued his studies, attending to the duties 
 assigned him in the hospital, as well as the usual 
 courses of lectures at the University, where he 
 graduated with honor about the year 1812. Af- 
 ter this he was appointed one of the resident 
 physicians of the hospital. From this period his 
 professional success realized his expectations. 
 Naturally of an affable disposition, the bedside 
 of the sick tended to improve it; and few among 
 his fellow-practitioners exhibited more of that
 
 MEMOIR. 255 
 
 tender regard and kindly interest which so much 
 attracts the patient, and induce almost unlimited 
 confidence. 
 
 In consequence of this he became a favorite in 
 many families as a " beloved physician." His 
 politeness seemed peculiarly his own. It was not 
 imitation, but grew out of an innate sense of the 
 proprieties of demeanor in the sick chamber, and 
 in social intercourse, which ever made his pres- 
 ence agreeable. It was the politeness of the true 
 Christian, and showed itself equally the same to 
 all, no matter what their position in life. This 
 maimer attached him to many from the belief of 
 its sincerity, and of its growth out of a pure heart ; 
 hence, every one was made easy in his presence, 
 and was prepared to look to him as counsellor 
 and friend. 
 
 In the year 1813 (tenth month, 6th), he mar- 
 ried Mary Lewis, the daughter of Mordecai and 
 Hannah Lewis, of Philadelphia. After this event 
 they established their residence in Spruce Street, 
 near Third, where they remained up to fhe year 
 1864, about fifty years. A few years after his mar- 
 riage, his devotion to his professional duties ap- 
 peared to have an undermining effect upon his 
 constitution, and evidences were apparent of pul-
 
 256 MEMOIR. 
 
 monary disease. Believing that he might re- 
 move this by proper treatment, he temporarily 
 surrendered his practice, and leaving his home, 
 commenced a system of horseback-riding, and 
 exposure to the free air of the country — by which 
 judicious course in a few months, a change was 
 effected, with his entire recovery; when he re- 
 turned to his family and friends renewedly pre- 
 pared to encounter the anxieties of medical life. 
 This recovery appeared permanent from that time, 
 as we hear no more of a similar condition of his 
 system. His practice continued to increase largely 
 from this period, and we find him closely atten- 
 tive to its various duties, ever keeping in view 
 the necessity of his standing constantly ready to 
 meet the calls of those who might need his aid or 
 counsel. His honorable care in this respect, was 
 met by a corresponding feeling of regard from 
 those in charge, as many testimonials of their 
 esteem and appreciation of his skill were fur- 
 nished from time to time, showing how deeply he 
 had impressed their minds by his truly Christian 
 regard, as well as for his matured abilities in his 
 profession. 
 
 In the year 1816, in her sixtieth year, his 
 mother, Mary Moore, departed this life. The
 
 MEMOIR. 257 
 
 impress of the purity and loveliness of this amia- 
 ble woman was evidently largely visible in the 
 character of the son. She was one who was held 
 in high esteem among her friends and neighbors, 
 as is evinced by testimonials to her worth and 
 excellence, both from her monthly and quarterly 
 meetings, as well as from those who were not of 
 the Society of Friends. She was a minister in 
 the Society for about nine years ; her first ap- 
 pearance occurring about her fifty-first year. In 
 this, her calling, she appeared to be highly ap- 
 preciated, giving evidence that she was led by a 
 Spirit which was qualified to dispense in due sea- 
 son the consolations of that Gospel which ever 
 promotes the growth, comfort, and edification of 
 all who may come within the outspreading of its 
 life and power. 
 
 During the period between the years 1825 and 
 1827, his mind was deeply impressed with the 
 difficulties which were then growing in the So- 
 ciety of Friends, and which seemed sooner or 
 later, to look towards a surrender of that relig- 
 ious freedom which had so conspicuously marked 
 the Society from its rise, or an entire separation 
 from the discordant elements which were then 
 assuming power and dictation. 
 
 Having been early grounded in the simple
 
 258 MEMOIR. 
 
 faith of the Society, with the enjoyment of its 
 enlarged freedom, he was not disposed to surren- 
 der that liberty, nor that faith which had been 
 his blessed reliance, without a straggle, or to enter 
 upon doubtful disputations on doctrines hereto- 
 fore unknown to the body of Friends, or to em- 
 brace opinions simply because they were fostered 
 and forced upon timid minds, by those whom 
 their confidence had placed in authority in the 
 church. 
 
 Trusting in the moving principle of Divine 
 Truth in the soul, he clung closely to it, and 
 awaited its direction, nothing doubting but that 
 there would be a safe and an abiding place found 
 for all those who would, in humility, look for the 
 overturning hand of Him who seemed now ready 
 to cleanse His tabernacle, and to separate the dead 
 opinionist from the living child who could only 
 look to the one Head, the Holy and True Father, 
 for daily support and right instruction. At this 
 time we therefore find him in connection with 
 the many Friends, who felt themselves bound to 
 the testimony which their fathers had borne, in 
 connection with their own individual experiences 
 of the manifestations of that inward light, which 
 lighteth every man that cometh into the world ; 
 and which they believed stood separate and apart
 
 MEMOIR. 259 
 
 from any conventional rule or words of doctrine, 
 many of which were now brought forward as 
 truth which had been unknown, or unheard of in 
 the Society, as a bond of union. 
 
 His extended sympathy in the direction he 
 now took, with his firmness in counsel and gen- 
 eral aid, were useful and encouraging, and tended 
 to strengthen many in the position they felt them- 
 selves bound to maintain before the world. 
 
 In these movements he never failed, or gave 
 evidence through life that he had mistaken his 
 true position, but on the contrary, he appeared to 
 grow in this grace, and in this saving knowledge, 
 often imparting to his friends in social intercourse 
 and otherwise, his faith and firm dependence 
 thereon, being enabled at times to add strength 
 to others from the clearness of the impressions 
 made upon his understanding. 
 
 In his services among Friends as a member 
 concerned for the health and welfare of the So- 
 ciety, he was faithful to his convictions, and, when 
 questions of interest and importance were under 
 examination he ever showed himself ready to 
 look at things with an eye to the right advance- 
 ment of the church, and the strength and comfort 
 of all. In expression he was courteous and con-
 
 260 MEMOIR. 
 
 ciliatory, and often showed that he was moved by 
 true wisdom in the formation of his judgment. 
 
 When it was proposed in 1833 to divide the 
 Monthly Meeting of Friends of Philadelphia, held 
 on Cherry Street, for the establishment of another 
 Monthly Meeting at Xinth and Spruce Streets, 
 our beloved friend was prominent in the move- 
 ment, and aided the measure to its accomplish- 
 ment. His connection with this meeting con- 
 tinued for a number of years. 
 
 In first month, 1855, his wife, Mary Lewis, de- 
 parted this life; a woman of quiet and retiring 
 spirit. The sanctuary of home was her delight, 
 there, she mainly worshipped, and exhibited the 
 kindness of her heart by her attentions to their 
 relatives and friends. This close retirement of 
 his wife had in some measure an influence upon 
 her husband, and although at this period he may 
 have mingled less in general society than might 
 have seemed desirable to some ; yet, his useful- 
 ness in many directions was in nowise diminished, 
 while those familiar with him, were often enabled 
 to realize the force and value of his exemplary 
 life, and to enjoy the loving genialities of his 
 mind. 
 
 By his marriage with Mary Lewis they had 
 one child — a daughter, who claimed and received
 
 MEMOIR. 261 
 
 the parental love aud interest in its fulness. In 
 the year 1833 she was married to Joshua Jen- 
 kins, of Philadelphia, by which connection, a 
 grandson was added to their family circle. Dur- 
 ing the infancy of this grandchild, she sickened 
 and died, to the solemn grief of her husband 
 and parents, and of all who stood connected with 
 her, whether in the near family relation, or in 
 that of friendship. With all, she was honored 
 and loved, and her departure from the midst of 
 her friends was felt to be a deep and weighty 
 bereavement. This great sorrow falling upon 
 our beloved friend and his companion, was sub- 
 mitted to by them with much Christian philo- 
 sophy; while time, the healer of many breaches, 
 brought with it calmness and resignation, with a 
 firmer position upon that Rock, from which, no 
 storm or tempest can remove. 
 
 On the 17th of seventh month, 1856, he en- 
 tered into the marriage covenant with Rachel 
 Wilson Barker, of Poughkeepsie, New York, a 
 Friend and Minister, well known to the Society, 
 and greatly esteemed. Joining her husband at 
 his residence in Philadelphia, she became a 
 member of the Monthly Meeting of Friends, of 
 Philadelphia, held on Spruce Street. This mar- 
 
 23
 
 262 MEMOIR. 
 
 riage appeared to afford much satisfaction to 
 both, although it induced considerable change in 
 his general course of life. The religious engage- 
 ments of his wife, led her frequently from home in 
 their fulfilment, in which services he felt bound 
 to assist, and afford her all the aid his sympa- 
 thetic mind could extend. On sueh an occasion 
 in 1858 he accompanied her through parts of 
 Illinois, Michigan, Upper and Lower Canada and 
 of New York, the journey occupying several 
 months in its accomplishment. The exposure 
 incident to this journey had an injurious effect 
 upon his health, and we find him returning an 
 invalid, from which he did not recover until after 
 a severe illness, being placed at times in a very 
 critical condition. In this season of trial he 
 manifested great composure, feeling at times the 
 supporting power of that Presence, which alone 
 is able to preserve in the deepest privations and 
 conflicts. Recovering from this serious illness, 
 he entered, as had been his wont, into the 
 various duties devolving upon him as the head 
 of a family, and assisting his beloved companion 
 in the fulfilment of her religious engagements ; 
 largely devoting himself with her, to the ameli- 
 oration of the condition of the many poor who
 
 MEMOIR. 263 
 
 had ever found in him a firm, liberal and sym- 
 pathizing friend. 
 
 In 1857 circumstances occurred which led 
 them to believe it would be best to remove their 
 certificates from Spruce Street Monthly Meeting, 
 and connect themselves with Green Street 
 Monthly Meeting, of Philadelphia. This was 
 effected to their satisfaction, and he continued a 
 member of that Meeting the remainder of his 
 life. 
 
 Some time after this removal, believing it would 
 be right, they made a visit to Great Britain, 
 travelling through England, Scotland, Ireland, 
 and through parts of Germany and France. Dur- 
 ing this journey, although much enjoyment was 
 experienced in the examination of the scenery 
 and objects of interest which those countries 
 afford, yet our beloved friend had often to 
 wade through many deep and weighty trials 
 of mind, in witnessing that disposition among 
 Friends of England and Ireland, that he had 
 so often to deplore in his own city and country, 
 during the period of the disagreements which 
 grew up in the Society, and culminated in a sep- 
 aration in 1827. 
 
 His endeared companion felt her mind, at 
 times, drawn to meet with Friends in their
 
 264 MEMOIR. 
 
 places of worship, and with others, and, when 
 there, to open np truths and testimonies dear to 
 her, and helieved to he in consonance with the 
 well-known doctrines and principles of the So- 
 ciety of Friends, as proclaimed and spread he- 
 fore the people of her own country. 
 
 The attendance of the meetings of Friends 
 was opposed, and measures taken to thwart those 
 which might he proposed to he held among those 
 not of the Society. These mistaken and misdi- 
 rected efforts of zeal sorely tried and afflicted his 
 tender spirit; hut perceiving the supporting power 
 of Infinite Goodness still near and mindful of 
 them, he was encouraged to hold up the hands of 
 his tried companion in that which she had un- 
 dertaken, and we find them returning from their 
 tour with renewed health, and with peace of 
 mind, to the joy of their many friends at home. 
 
 The condition of the people of color often 
 brought him into much exercise of mind, and in 
 company with his wife, he was found engaged 
 religiously and otherwise, in the endeavor to 
 ameliorate and improve their position as citizens 
 of our common country; their rights, as such, 
 he deeming valid and as sacred as those claimed 
 by the white inhabitants. 
 
 In 1850, in company with his wife, he visited
 
 MEMOIR. 265 
 
 the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada. In 
 the Lower Province he located a school, a few 
 miles from Chatham, near the " King's High- 
 way," for the children of the colored people, 
 refugees from Southern slavery, who are largely 
 settled in that section of the country. 
 
 The settlement of this school grew out of the 
 earnest concern and interest felt hy his second 
 mother, Esther Moore, for this deeply injured 
 race, who, claiming the right, had fled from 
 slavery to this place of safety, where, under the 
 protection and guidance of the Colonial laws, 
 they had the opportunity to develop themselves 
 into useful and intelligent citizens. To aid this, 
 she had bequeathed an endowment for a school, 
 whicli our beloved friend hastened to carry into 
 effect, and was enabled to accomplish it to his 
 entire satisfaction. 
 
 In 1861, the settlement and school were again 
 visited, and the school found in a favorable con- 
 dition, giving promise of present and future 
 good. His interest in its welfare continued un- 
 abated during the remainder of his life. 
 
 Esther Moore, the second wife of his father, 
 was a woman of most excellent qualities, loving 
 in spirit; her generous heart was often touched 
 
 23*
 
 266 MEMOIR. 
 
 with tenderness for the suffering classes of her 
 race, and, so far as she was able, labored earn- 
 estly for their advancement into higher positions 
 of intelligence and usefulness. For the colored 
 people, especially, she worked steadfastly and 
 faithfully. Endowed with considerable ability 
 to express herself, she was not wanting in making 
 known to her friends and others what was agita- 
 ting her own mind in behalf of the suffering and 
 the dumb. Through a long life she never failed 
 to manifest her zeal ; and, as above stated, in re- 
 gard to the colored school in Canada, she left 
 that as a memorial of the deep convictions of 
 duty which had, through good and evil report, 
 in season and out of season, been stirring her in- 
 ward life to plead the cause of these poor, and to 
 induce other minds to perform an equal part 
 with her in lifting them up to a position of 
 equality, before the law, with their fellow- 
 citizens. 
 
 During the early part of the war of the Rebel- 
 lion, in the winter of 1862-3, his wife, suffering 
 severely from laryngeal disease, it was deemed 
 advisable for her to pass the winter months in a 
 wanner and less variable climate. With this 
 view a voyage was undertaken to the West In-
 
 MEMOIR. 2G7 
 
 dies, where they remained until the opening of 
 the following summer. 
 
 During their absence they visited several of 
 the Islands, — Cuba, St. Thomas, Santa Cruz, 
 Barbadoes, Trinidad, extending their visit to 
 Demerara, in British Guiana. In these several 
 visits they occasionally had meetings with the 
 colored inhabitants, which appear, from their 
 accounts, to have been acceptable services, and 
 brought, in the effort, comfort to themselves. In 
 this visit an opportunity was had, upon the Brit- 
 ish and Danish Islands, to investigate the con- 
 dition of the freed people; and although they 
 did not find them, in all places, as far advanced 
 as they had anticipated, nor the prejudices of the 
 white inhabitants sufficiently removed to render 
 them full justice and care, as to educational and 
 other measures in which their pecuniary inter- 
 ests were involved, yet the evidence was conclu- 
 sive that freedom to them had been, and would 
 continue to be, as it has ever been to all people, 
 a great blessing. 
 
 On their return they found our country still 
 engaged in the same fearful and deadly strife. 
 Designing men throughout the cotton-growing 
 States had determined, if possible, to dismember
 
 268 MEMOIR. 
 
 the government, or overthrow it, and a war of 
 rebellion of the most heinous character was 
 being enacted for that purpose mainly, and to es- 
 tablish the system of slavery, as a permanency, 
 throughout the nation. The effort, however, 
 failed, after a struggle of four long and bloody 
 years, in which many terrible battles were fought. 
 Thousands were slain in these sanguinary con- 
 flicts, and many severely injured. The whole 
 land mourned during these awful struggles, be- 
 cause of these deeds of death and sacrifice of so 
 many valuable lives. In the spring of 1865, 
 every effort on the part of the slaveholders hav- 
 ing failed, their country reduced to almost abject 
 destitution, they surrendered at discretion, and 
 with this, slavery, for which they had risked so 
 much, against which a moral warfare had been 
 waged for many years, fell forever. 
 
 During these fearful and deadly conflicts our 
 beloved friend was often found in weighty 
 thoughtfulness. The principles which governed 
 his own mind, and which he believed to be in 
 harmony with the great Teacher of Nazareth, he 
 discovered were mainly unknown or unheeded 
 by the people around him. He who came to 
 preach peace, and not a sword; freedom, and not
 
 MEMOIR. 269 
 
 slavery ; although owned as a leader, and regard- 
 ed as a Saviour, was, nevertheless, forgotten in 
 the present trial. Those who claimed to be His 
 disciples hesitated not to engage in the fiercest 
 battles, and to encourage all to follow in their 
 footsteps. These great and appalling movements 
 among his countrymen gave our dear friend 
 anxious and earnest concern. His love of coun- 
 try was sincere. Freedom was dear to him. 
 But the love of those great principles of eternal 
 truth, infused into his soul by the all-wise Author 
 of his being, was above and beyond all other 
 things, and in this he found realized to himself 
 that which could embrace all as brethren. In 
 this, too, he was responding to the fundamental 
 testimonies of his own religious society ; and for 
 the preservation of these, his spirit yearned that 
 they might be appreciated, upheld, and main- 
 tained. 
 
 The many wounded, and sufferers from dis- 
 ease, that were brought from the armies and 
 battle-fields, and were placed in the military hos- 
 pitals in and around the city of Philadelphia, 
 largely excited his commiseration, and we find 
 him exerting himself, in company with his be- 
 loved companion, for their relief and comfort.
 
 270 MEMOIR. 
 
 The tenderness of his spirit, and the loving man- 
 ner through which his sympathies were accus- 
 tomed to flow out towards the afflicted by 
 disease, enabled him to approach these injured 
 men, to the gladdening of their hearts, and the 
 infusing of a belief, that, although separated 
 from their families and friends, they were not 
 forgotten in the hour of their desolation and 
 distress. 
 
 In the proclamation of emancipation put forth 
 by President Lincoln, he was deeply interested. 
 His sympathy for the poor slave had ever been 
 earnest; the breaking of his shackles, a subject 
 of many prayers ; and now, as these were about 
 being answered, and the freedom of the bond- 
 man prospectively secured, it afforded him a pure 
 and a holy joy. This proclamation produced a 
 new era, with a new adaptation of language, and 
 new themes for thought and labor in our coun- 
 try. The " freedman," as now called, stood out 
 before the people, claiming help and asking for 
 education and all the appliances which liberty, 
 in her own right, could give, and which, being 
 theirs, might enable them to take their places in 
 tli is their new birth as citizens of our common 
 country. In all this our beloved friend brought
 
 MEMOIR. 271 
 
 his wisdom and his means liberally into use. 
 We find him promoting "Freedmen's Associa- 
 tions," designed to help these poor in any and 
 every way which, after judicious investigation, 
 seemed to promise success. 
 
 To the free people of color in our city he ever 
 extended help and encouragement. For the 
 breaking down of the odious feeling of caste he 
 labored faithfully; calling, at times, under con- 
 cern, upon those having charge of the passenger 
 railways, in respect to the cruel treatment exer- 
 cised toward them, by excluding them from par- 
 ticipating in the common use and benefit of the 
 cars. He felt the evil and inconsistency of this ; 
 for while we were professing to rejoice in the 
 downfall of slavery, we were, in an assumed en- 
 lightened community, acting counter in a petty 
 and puerile manner towards this deeply injured 
 people. 
 
 After his return from the West Indies, he 
 purchased a dwelling-house and grounds, in Ger- 
 mantown, to which they removed in 1864. It 
 was with some reluctance that he left his old 
 mansion, in Spruce Street, which he had occu- 
 pied so many years, and where he had passed 
 hours of joy, as well as some of sorrow. But
 
 272 MEMOIR. 
 
 circumstances of health seemed to point to the 
 necessity of the change, and when it was accom- 
 plished, he appeared to enjoy it as a variation 
 from close city life. He could now engage oc- 
 casionally in gardening, which he appeared to 
 enjoy with zest and cheerfulness, believing it 
 would be valuable as a promoter of health. 
 However this may have been for a time, we find 
 him in the early part of the summer of 1865, 
 seriously and alarmingly attacked by disease, 
 which, iu its characteristics, resembled a chronic 
 affection, which had been a distress to him, oc- 
 casionally, for many years. This fact led his 
 anxious friends to believe that he might again 
 recover, as he had at times previous ; but in this 
 all were disappointed. His sickness was often 
 deeply distressing, and towards the close, attend- 
 ed with extreme pain, all which, however, he 
 bore with Christian patience and fortitude, giv- 
 ing the clearest assurance that his peace with his 
 Heavenly Father was made, saying, " I see noth- 
 ing in my way like a cloud, and had I my time 
 to live over again, I do not know that I should 
 be likely to improve it." Saying further, "If I 
 ever missed my way, or found I was wrong, re- 
 pentance has always brought forgiveness." His
 
 MEMOIR. • 273 
 
 bedside was a school of instruction in witnessing 
 the meekness of his spirit. His close was calm 
 and peaceful, — his countenance beaming with 
 love and sweetness. Thus he departed, we trust 
 to enter that habitation which has been prepared 
 for all those who have sought, found, and hon- 
 ored the one eternal principle on which all life is 
 based. 
 
 In thus presenting the character and labors 
 through life of our beloved friend, it will be no- 
 ticed that no remarkably striking event is delin- 
 eated in which to show any peculiar trait or bent 
 of his mind, further than his large benevolence; 
 his amiableness of manners ; his devotion to 
 principles which he had embraced from convic- 
 tion ; his watchful guardianship of those under 
 his care; his attention in sustaining and encour- 
 aging faithfulness to religious duties ; his sympa- 
 thy with the afflicted and suffering, and efforts 
 to relieve ; his patience and fortitude when un- 
 der trial, with his firm dependence on the Divine 
 guidance in all his movements; and his final re- 
 liance upon that all'disposing Power in the clos- 
 ing hours of his existence. All these may seem 
 to be traits of character that are common to 
 many; yet, when the aggregate is presented, 
 24
 
 •J74 MEMOIR. 
 
 they form a whole life admirably fitted to show 
 the working of that inner sense of truth and 
 government, which alone flows from the Foun- 
 tain of all wisdom and knowledge, and qualifies 
 man to become a true servant in the dispensing 
 of blessings on the pathway in which he is called 
 to tread. We cannot doubt that, in thus fulfilling 
 his mission on earth, the blessedness of a higher 
 and a more glorious life is his, — the invitation 
 being extended to all such laborers, " Come, 
 ye blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom 
 prepared for you, from the foundation of the 
 world." 
 
 He departed this life on the twenty-fifth day 
 of the sixth month, 1865, in the seventy-sixth 
 year of his age, and was interred in Friends' 
 Bu rial-ground, at Fair Hill. Previous to which, 
 a large number of his friends and neighbors 
 were gathered in a solemn meeting, and testi- 
 monies delivered therein, showing the operation 
 of the Divine principle as reflected in his life 
 and conversation, with a call for others to be 
 found equally faithful to manifested duty. 
 
 Philadelphia, Twelfth month, 1st, 1865.
 
 &5S~ 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 Santa Barbara 
 
 THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW. 
 
 
 H ■ 
 
 RETD OC 19833 4 
 
 OCT2710E3 
 
 Seriei I
 
 HBWWFACUJTV, 
 
 3 1205 00405 8366 
 
 ur SOUTHERN BE«{j: 
 
 , n 
 
 i. .v'.a \ J Vi
 
 . ■i. ■•;■:,:■.