FABENS Facts About Santo ^omingo Applicable to the Present Crisis -• FACTS SANTO DOMINGO applicable to tl)c present €xbx5. A^ ADDRESS DELIVEEED BEFOEE THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL SOCIETY AT NEW TORK, APRIL 3, 1862, JOSEPH WAEEEN FABENS. ILLrSTRATED BY THE OXLY COMPLETE MAP OF SANTO DOMINGO AND IIAYTI THAT IIA9 YET APPEARED. iSL.V YORK: GEORGE r. PUTNAM, 5 32 BROADWAY WASHINGTON, I). C. : FRANCK TAYLOR. 18G2. JOHN F. TROT^, TniNTEE AND STEEEOTYPEn, 50 Greene street. LIDRARY . ,, . UNIVERSITY OF CALIFO \M O I SANTA BARBARA F3 SANTO DOMINGO. INTRODUCTORY HISTORICAL REMARKS. The Island of Santo Domingo is the New World's classic land. Nothing in the records of remote antiquity fascinates us like the wonderful story of its discovery and first occupation by the white man. Every page of its early history is alive v>'ith stirring incidents and pregnant adventures, the strivings, achieve- ments, failures, sufl'erings, and sorrows of hold spirits and soaring intellects ; and, over all, magnifying their shadowy proportions, softening, too, their harsher outlines, lies the dim mist of cen- turies. Here was the chosen and cherished home of Columbus. Here the great discoverer enjoyed, for a time, the sweet fruition of those hopes which had been his only solace during years of wandering, anxiety, and many disappointments. For this he had been, as Irving says, " exposed to continual scoffs and indig- nities, being ridiculed by the light and ignorant as a mere dreamer, and stigmatized by the illiberal as an adventurer." For this, according to Clemencin, a Spanish writer, "he had waited in the corners of ante-chambers, confounded in the crowd of im- portunate applicants, melancholy and dejected in the midst of the general rejoicing." For this, one day, a stranger in a strange land, weary with travel and sad at heart, holding his little boy by the hand, he had stopped at the gate of the convent of Santa Maria de Rabida, and asked for bread and water for his child. But all this time, without a home, without money, and without friends, he bore about with him, smouldering in his bosom, the wealth of the great faith and hope which was here to be realized. 4 SANTO DOMINGO. Here he established the first white colony on this side of the Atlantic, introducing also horses, cattle, and domestic animals of all kinds, grain, seeds of various plants, vines, sugar-canes, and many European grafts and saplings. " There was something wonderfully grand," says the historian, " in the idea of thus in- troducing new races of animals and plants, of building cities, extending colonies, and sowing the seeds of civilization and of enlightened empire in this beautiful but savage world. It struck the minds of learned and classical men with admiration, filling them with pleasant dreams and reveries, and seeming to realize the poetical pictures of the olden time," " Columbus," says old Peter Martyr, who describes so graphic- ally events at this period, " has begun to build a city, as he has lately written to me, and to sow our seeds and propagate our animals. Who of us shall now speak with wonder of Saturn, Ceres, and Triptolemus, travelling about the earth to spread new inventions among mankind ? Or of the Phconicians, who built Tyre or Sidon ? Or of the Tyrians themselves, whose roving desires led them to migrate into foreign lands, to build new cities, and establish new communities T' The theatre of the drama was worthy of the stirring events therein enacted. Glowing descriptions of its palmy groves, its lofty but luxuriant mountains, its pictured landscapes of rich smiling valleys and broad sweeping plains, its majestic rivers, flowing through aromatic forests to secure and spacious bays and harbors, its mines of gold and silver and precious stones, its numerous and beautiful birds, its abundant fishes, its manifold and delicious fruits, its fragrant flowers of perpetual bloom, its soft and voluptuous climate, the cordiality and gentleness of its simple-minded inhabitants ; these went back to Spain, thrilling the public heart from Cordova to Barcelona and the shores of the little port of Palos, and, radiating thence, caused the pulse of enterprise throughout Europe to beat with liveliest throbs. Enthusiasts and adventurers flocked from all sides to visit these new-found regions of wealth and enchantment. Hidalgos of the highest rank, favorite officers of the royal household, Andalusian cavaliers, fresh and glowing with martial zeal from the Moorish INTRODUCTORY HISTORICAL REMARKS. 5 wars, pale students from the cloister, devoutly anxious to extend the dominions of the Church, together with traders, husbandmen, miners, mechanics, and servants, thronged the outward-bound ships and caravels. As we look back through the intervening centuries upon this crowd of actors, by the light of our later knowledge and experience, they pass before us with proud and stately tread ; but with remorse, and the sorrow which is often allied to greatness and enthusiasm, imprinted on their faces. Many were their misconceptions and terrible the mistakes and crimes which they committed ; but swift and righteous was the retribution, Columbus is ever the central figure of the group. With all his religious fervor and lofty purposes, he appears to have been wanting in a broad and earnest sympathy with his kind, and to have fallen into deplorable errors, till at length we are heart-rent at beholding him carried in chains from that land which but a few years previous had worshipped him as a god. Yet those chains, heavy and degrading as they were, which, his son Fernando tells us, were kept ever after hanging in his cabi- net, and which he desired might be buried with him in his grave, were as nothing to the heaviness and bitter disappointment which weighed upon his soul. Far more inexcusable were the cruelties and indignities perpetrated by his companions and followers, and thorough and complete was the Almighty's vengeance. The simple-minded, long-suffering natives, on whom they delighted to place intolerable burdens, were taken from them to those mansions " where the wicked cease from troubling and the weary are at rest." The land withered beneath their iron rule. Their cities fell in ruins, the lizard and centipede crawled over decay- ing rafters and among noisome weeds in the corridors of their once splendid palaces. Their fields were abandoned for want of labor, and the wilderness came back to repossess the site of the garden. They perished from no visible calamity, but, as a recent writer expresses it, from an internal gnawing — a kind of dry rot. There is something inexpressibly sad and touching in the final exodus of the remnant of this haughty race, when, in 1795, having ceded the island to France, they gathered up the remains of their great admiral, and, bidding adieu to the land b SANTO DOMINGO. which he so loved and they had so cursed with political and social misrule, " westward took their solitary way." If the active life of Columbus was roimded by sorrow, as Shakespeare tells us all our lives "'arc rounded by a sleep," so the island that was his best beloved — the Benjamin around which clustered the affec- tions of his declining years — after three centuries of occupation by the Spaniards, centuries of oppression, bloodshed, and crudest wrongs, during which the bones of its once numerous people checkered the greensward from Cape Tiburon to Engano, re- turned again to its former condition of savage innocence, of rude plenty, and the semblance of patriarchal repose. To-da}', on the same picturesque stage, amid the same bright surroundings of tropical enchantment, a new drama is being enacted, a drama of far greater significance than the old, in the events of which we are especially interested. In the west end of the island, in that comparatively small portion of its territory now known as Hayti, a free black republic exists, which is not a failure. In Santo Domingo proper, restored again voluntarily to the rule of Spain, but, as I shall hereinafter state more in detail, under very different auspices from the former, with the moral and political equality of the races guaranteed, and the fairest promise of a most liberal and enlightened policy of government, we are invited to try on an extensive scale the oft-discussed experiment of free black labor in the tropics. It is not likely that we shall disregard the invitation. The emergencies of the new era, on which, as a people, we have already entered, forbid the supposition. On the contrary, it is more than probable that we shall at once embrace the opportunity here offered us of solving one of the great industrial })roblems of the age. Apart from the story of Santo Domingo, I find but little information of an accurate character prevailing with regard to the island. Let us cast a glance at its geographical position and topographical character, and consider a few facts relative to its climate, soil, and productions. I shall pass by the rose-tinted descriptions of those magniloquent adventurers who found here cataracts of wild honey flowing over precipices veined with gold, and saw on every side the wealth of Ophir and the aromatic GEOGRAPHICAL TOSITION, 7 spices of the Moluccas^ and give only the well-authenticated facts of reliable residents and travellers, combined with the results of my own observation. It will be seen that the land is to-day as rich, and the field of labor as inviting, as when, according to some of the old writers, Hispaniola exported twenty- five millions of gold per annum, and the magnificent palaces erected by Charles V. at Madrid and Toledo were said to have been built of the sugar of its production. Geogeaphical Positiox. The Island of Santo Domingo lies between the eighteenth and twentieth parallels of north latitude, reaching ouite up to these limits in a large portion of its boundaries, overrunning them, even, in one point southward, and extends from near the third to near the ninth parallel of longitude east from Washington. It lies midway between the fine islands of Cuba and Porto Kico, and its relative position in the great Archipelago of the West Indies, as well as toward our own shores, and the coasts of Cen- tral America and the Spanish Main, is peculiarly advantageous and commanding. It may be said to lie on the western con- fines of the north-east trade-winds. The seas in its immediate neighborhood are remarkably free from dangers, while its bold headlands and lofty inland mountains afford well-marked beacons to the navigator. Hence the native Indians had given to it the name of Hayti, or Highland — and Quisqueya, or Mother of Lands. Columbus made it his head-quarters, not merely because his dearest hopes were centred in its welfire, but because it was a convenient stopping-place fur him in his voyages of discovery amongst the other islands, and to the Main. " It was," says Valverde, "as a centre, whence sailed all the expeditions by which was discovered, conquered, and settled, the fourth part of the v.'orld, we may say half the globe. For these and olher mo- tives it was distinguished from the first by the family name of Spain, as if it were the heart of the country, from which its peo- ple overflowed upon the other innumerable isles and the vast continent, proceeding even to the ocean of the Pacific, and the Southern seas." 8 SANTO DOMINGO. " Its situation/' says the old Padre Charlevoix, '' relative to the other islands and Costa Firma, could not be more advan- tageous, for it is surrounded by them, as it were, and may be said to be placed in the centre of this great Archipelago to exercise jurisdiction over them. The other three great Antilles of Sota- vento, namely Cuba, Porto Kico, and Jamaica, appear particularly disposed to recognize this superiority, and their own subordina- tion, for toward each of these three islands it extends a cape or point. Cape Tiburon, which forms its southwest extremity, is not more than thirty leagues from Jamaica, and, according to Oviedo, only twenty-five. Point Espada is distant from Porto Kico but eighteen leagues, and it is but twelve leagues from San Nicholas to the coast of Cuba. No other position," observes this writer, "will enable Spain to establish a solid footing in these waters, for none is so capable to maintain the respect and supe- riority of the nation, as well in the islands and continents which she possesses, as in those which foreigners have usurped in these dominions. Its location to windward, the great number and convenience of its ports, its contiguity to Cuba and Porto Rico, with other advantages, render it the centre of navigation and key of New Spain. To whatever part our fleets and squadrons may sail, they are allured hither by safe roadsteads, abundant sup- plies, and secure seas, whether voyaging to or from Europe, or returning from the Indies, or navigating from whatever motive in the waters of this Archipelago." Topographical Description. The surface of Santo Domingo is exceedingly broken and diversified. Ilills and mountains rise in massive and irregular piles in all directions, but they look down on smiling valleys and broad plains where majestic rivers flow through dense forests, and past lands of the richest 2)asturage. Two principal ranges of mountains run in nearly parallel lines through almost the entire area of the island, observing a general direction from east to west. They lie at an average distance of some ten leagues from the coast. These ranges have many spurs and auxiliary chains, as it were, taking quite eccentric paths, and agreeably diversify- TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. if ing the aspect of the intervening country. It is owing, perhaps, in part to this great topographical feature, that an impression prevails in some minds that the wooded and arable land of Santo Domingo is somewhat limited^ but a closer investigation will dis- pel the erroneous idea. " This is the reason," says the author^ofjf"^ a recent work entitled " The Gold Fields of Santo Domingo," ^ (which contains some very interesting facts, particularly those concerning the geology and mineral resources of the country,) " why, on approaching the island, it appears rugged and moun- tainous beyond all description, impressing the spectator with the belief that it is a mountainous waste, utterly destitute of any agricultural susceptibilities, while it is, in fact, thickly inter- spersed with the richest valleys, plains, slopes, and savannas, where the vegetable kingdom perennially reproduces itself in a thousand forms, and in riotous profusion, the mountains themselves being covered with the darkest forests and the greenest foliage, to their very tops." M. Moreau de St. Mery, in his carefully prepared work on Santo Domingo, thus alludes to the fertility and hidden resources of these mountain ranges : " If we may judge of them," he says, " by the stoutness of the trees and the thickness of their foliage, they must be extremely fertile. Some of them, however, have a rugged and sterile appearance, but this is almost always the effect of some mine, of which there are many in these mountains, of various sorts and various fecundity. The mountains of the Span- ish part are high enough to attract the rains that furnish the water with which the Spanish part is more amply supplied than the French. It is they that preserve that perpetual verdure, that coolness so delightful in a hot climate, and the enlivening beauty of all the vegetable creation." In Irving's " Columbus" we have the following description, made up from the papers of the great Admiral himself. Speak- ing of the magical ellect of the island's first appearance, as it rose upon his vision from tropic seas, green and distinct in the pure air, and beneath the serenity of the deep blue sky, he says : " Un- der these advantages the beautiful island of Hayti revealed itself to the eye as they approached. Its mountains were higher and 10 SANTO DOMINGO. more rocky than those of the other islands, but the rocks rose from among rich forests. The mountains swept down into luxu- riant plains and green savannas, while the appearance of culti- vated fields, of numerous fires at night and columns of smoke by day, showed it to be populous." And again, of the north coast he says : " It was lofty and mountainous, but with green savannas and long, sweeping plains. At one place they caught a view up a rich and smiling valley, that ran far into the interior, between two mountains, and appeared to be in a high state of cultivation. The coast abounded with fish, some of which leaped even into their boats. They cast their nets, therefore, and caught great quantities. The notes of the bird which they mistook for the nightingale, and several others to which they were accustomed, reminded them strongly of the groves of their distant Andalusia. They fancied the features of the surrounding country resembled those of the more beautiful provinces of Spain, and in conse- quence the Admiral named the island Hispaniola." The slopes and plains of the south side, intersected as they are by frequent rivers, which afford special facilities for communi- cation with the coast, offer perhaps the best field for immediate colonization. This portion of the country is well divided into wood, tillage, and pasture lands. From the boundary line with llayti to the city of Santo Domingo, there is a succession of these lesser plains and valleys, possessing a salubrious climate, a soil of great productiveness, and a most desirable location. Both Valverde and Moreau spciik particularly of these inviting tracts, and make some interesting statements as to their extent and agricultural capacity. " The valley of Nclba, which is the westernmost of these southern slopes," says Moreau, '• contains about seven hundred square miles. The Neiba River and some mountainous parts separate it on the east from the plains of Azua and Bani, and to the west it is bounded by the river of Dames, and the lake of Henriquilla. It is extremely fertile, and well adapted to com- merce, on account of the largeness of its river. The chase there is both useful and agreeable. The birds multiply exceedingly TOrOGRAPIIICAL DESCRIPTION. 11 fast. This seems to he the cliosen spot of the flamingoes and pheasants, which keep in flocks, and are found in every part of the plain, particularly in the watering-places. This plain," adds Moreau, who seems to have quite a predilection for the sugar culture, " would be a commodious and eligible situation for more than a hundred and fifty sugar manuflictories or plantations ; an opening to which would be very easy by means of this great river that has long been the boundary of the French possessions." Notwithstanding its excellent position, and the abundant fertility of its soil, it is to-day little better than a desert. At the old port of Azua there were formerly shipped large quantities of excellent sugar, raised in the immediate neighbor- hood. This valley contains about 1,300 square miles. Accord- ing to Moreau, the su