di UC-NRLF CNJ m MEM©litIAM Mary J. L. McDonald Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/diaryofmyeuropeaOOfleiriGh DIARY OF MY EUROPEAN TRIP By DELIA STERN FLEISHACKER NEW YORK PUBLISHERS' Printing Company 1903 IW MEMORIAM I These ideas and impressions have been jotted down during the wee small hours after each day's travel. They may be faulty, and of no interest to any one but my dear children, to whom they are most lovingly dedicated by their mother. DELIA STERN FLEISHACKER. October Second, Nineteen Hundred. 984131. CONTENTS 4 Page I. San Francisco to Gibraltar — On the Mediterranean, 1-5 II. Naples and Vesuvius— Dead and Live Cities, 7-20 III. The Eternal City— Florence— Milan — Genoa — Nice — Monte Carlo — "The Bride of the Adriatic," . . 21-35 IV. The Blue Danube — Austria's Mag- nificent Capital, .... 37-40 V. Munich — Ober - Ammergau and the Passion-Play — Thrifty Nuremberg- ^ ERs and their Ancient (?) Curios, . 41-49 VI. Carlsbad — "On to Berlin" — The Rhine, 51-59 VII. The Paradise of Europe, Switzer- land, 61-66 VIII. Incomparable Paris — Versailles — London— Home Again, . . . 67-74 30iar^ of Mv European Crip> X900 I N Sunday, March the fourth, nine- teen hundred, at 8 o'clock a. m., I left San Francisco in company with my beloved sons, Mortimer and Herbert and Louis, en route for Europe. My dear boys accom- panied me as far as Truckee. In the face of the Sierra Nevada Mountains we bade each other farewell. In company with my friend, Mrs. T., I continued eastward. After a very pleasant but uneventful jour- ney of four days, we arrived in New York City, where I was greeted by my beloved children — Emma, Blanche, Sigmund, and Frank. I remained there fourteen days. minx^ of ^^ CButopran Wnp, 1900 On March the twenty-fourth I sailed, in company with my children and grand- child (the Rosenbaums), on the Steamer " Trave," on our way to Italy. The Atlan- tic Ocean was calm and lovely. We ar- rived •' ;'at, . the Island St. Miguel Friday, March, the thirtieth, and at St. Vincent, Portugal,: Sunday, April first. We enjoyed simply seeing land. On Monday, April sec- ond, we arrived at Gibraltar. At lo o'clock A. M., we went ashore in a tender. The first thing upon entering the harbor that attracts one is the wonderful mammoth rock. This Rock of Gibraltar extends into the sea. After getting on terra Jirma we hired a wagon and drove to the tele- graph office. I sent a telegram to my dar- ling children in San Francisco for the nominal sum of four shillings — one dollar in our coin. I also received a telegram at Gibraltar from my children Blanche and Frank, handed to me on the steamer as we arrived. After going to the post- office to mail letters to all our dear ones SDiari? of ^^ European ^tip, 1900 in America, we started to see the sights of Gibraltar. It has only twenty-eight thou- sand inhabitants. It is a very hilly city with very narrow streets. All the houses are built of stone. Many of these houses, being built upon the steep side hills, look as though they would topple over. Eng- lish as well as Spanish soldiers are plentiful here; the English dressed in bright red coats and crazy-looking little patent-leather black caps perched on one side of their heads. Some are dressed in Highland cos- tumes, short plaid skirts and bare legs, while the Spanish soldiers look very poorly, dressed in brown linen, queerly made uni- forms. Gibraltar is what it is intended to be, a perfect fortification. There is a market- place called the " Jews' Market." It seems more like an auction-place. It is plenti- fully stocked with fruits and flowers. Very inferior, however, to the sight of a Califor- nian, are these products. People of all na- tionalities seem to congregate at the mar- 3 SDiar^ of ^^ European ^tip, 1900 ket-place, some dressed in picturesque cos- tumes. It seemed that all who were not soldiers wanted to sell something to the passengers. The Moors went about trying to sell funny-looking copper coins. I bought a dozen fresh eggs from a Turk in regal costume for eight pence — 16 cents. Without hearing a joke, and even without seeing any prominent noses amongst us, he said, ''I'm a Yahuda"; this being proba- bly a trick of his trade — to be of any relig- ion the occasion might warrant. I bought a money-pouch from an African. Very small donkeys do all the hauling of very big loads strapped on either side of them in huge baskets. Many Spanish women run about here, some quite pretty, but wearing neither shoes, stockings, nor hats. Altogether, we spent a few pleasant hours looking at a queer, pretty little city, and a very funny, mixed-up lot of people. We said: "Good-bye, Gibraltar." On the second day out of Gibraltar we passed from the Atlantic Ocean into the 4 2Diai:^ of £$^ (European W^tip, 1900 Mediterranean Sea, so the ship's officers planned a surprise. While the passengers were at dinner the decks were dressed in gala attire. Flags of all nations enclosed the sides of the vessel, and at 9 o'clock a grand ball commenced. The water of the Mediterranean Sea being less deep than that of the Atlantic Ocean, caused a plung- ing and rocking for the entire evening. The dancing people,' however, kept upon their feet and danced to the music of a fine German ship's band. Wednesday, April fourth, is a calm, lovely day. We are glid- ing along with a number of small islands in sight. To-morrow, Thursday, at 6 a. m., we shall arrive at Naples, and this will termi- nate our ocean voyage. Thus far, we have met very many pleas- ant people. The irony of fate is peculiar. Some people with whom we became ac- quainted left us at Gibraltar, to travel through Africa, etc. ; others of our number are residents of Africa, just getting away from there to do Italy, France, etc. 5 II IDNIGHT, April fifth, we ar- rived at the beautiful city of Naples. Early in the morning a tender carried as many pas- sengers at a time as such a miser- able, small boat could take. The Italians, however, provided amusement for us. A little band of strolling singers were making a musical noise — girls playing gui- tars, mandolins, and tambourines, the men playing violins, etc. It was very inferior music for Italy. We probably had no right to expect grand opera for the miser- able, paltry, few pennies every one dropped into their tambourines. Arriving at Na- ples, and having to go to the custom-house, a trying time awaited us to get our trunks. Oh, what a crazy, excitable mob these Italians are! They really do not know the word tranquillity. Such howl- 7 2E>iar^ of ^^ Curopean ^rip^ 1900 ing, pushing and fussing, and opening our trunks ! After being told that a box of cigars was the only contrabrand goods, and Sigmund being willing to pay duty upon them, we were allowed to depart. We drove to the Grand Hotel, and grand it is, indeed, overlooking on one side the beautiful mountains and hills that are dotted with fine palaces. Some smaller houses are to be seen, but all built of stone or marble. Great domes abound on the hillsides. On the other side lies the beautiful Bay of Naples. A wonderful panorama is before the eye, reminding one of past ages as well as of present enterprise. Sight-seeing now commenced. We drove through the city of Naples, to get to the old cloister of St. Martin's. It rests on the very mountain top and overlooks Mount Vesuvius, the Bay of Naples, and the entire city. Such a wonderful sight was before us, and far be- low us appeared a sight of fairy-land which is almost indescribable. At this ancient monastery we saw the skiff of Ferdinand 8 SDiar^ of ^^ CBuropean Wxip, 1900 the Second, magnificently carved, the very ship he came on to be crowned in 1700. Grand old pictures, bronzes, and wonderful majolicas are exhibited here. The monks who lived in this monastery years ago are all buried around this marvellous building. The Neapolitan people keep all these won- ders in fine condition, and take great pride in showing them to tourists. A visit to the Museum Neapolitan is one of the great events while at Naples. Nowhere can one see quite as many ancient marble statues, busts, bronzes, mosaics, and art-glass won- ders as here. Ancient cooking utensils are quaint and in great variety. Naples is a beautiful city, and the aristocracy is great. However, the democracy is of the poorest. Although the poor people live in big houses, they have only a few dark rooms with no rear outlet, no light, only that which creeps in through the entrance. Hence these poor creatures have to perform many duties in the streets and doorways, such as nourishing their offspring, combing and 9 2Diar^ of ^^ (European tE^rip, 1900 washing them, mending, and fondling their not overly clean children, all in very close proximity to their little fruit-stands, where they sell oranges, dried fruits, nuts, and vari- ous other things, all very inferior in quality and very dirty-looking at best. While driv- ing through the suburbs one sees miles of spaghetti hanging in the dusty road to dry in the sun. The same is later enjoyed by all as very delicious food. Naples is a fine camping-ground, as it leads to many wonderful places, and is the nearest and best outlet for sight-seeing in Italy. From Naples we went, on April nth, to see the great, the wonderful Vesu- vius. After a ride of three and a half hours by carriage, one takes a twelve-minutes' ride on probably the shortest and straight- est cable-car in the world. The height being varied from over three to four thou- sand feet to the top, it was indeed very dangerous looking. When reaching this pinnacle one is rarely satisfied, but wishes to see the crater itself of this destructive Wiu^ of ^1^ dDuropean ^tip^ 1900 fire- and smoke-spitting volcano. Three men are needed to carry one person in a chair to the very top. It is a dreadful sight to look into this mammoth cavern or opening that spits forth fire, smoke, and lava, and we were obliged to cover our heads with our carriage blankets, and then were nearly strangled by the fumes. We may have had a bad day. It can, however, never be anything but gruesome on the pinnacle of this mount. It is majestic, but fearful, and when thinking of the destruc- tion this monster has caused, one leaves the mountain with the wish never to look upon its like again, yet satisfied that one has faced the danger and it is past. Som.e hardy people climb the eminence, but many give out and are thankful to pay one of the guides to be permitted to hang on to a strap fastened about their waists, and be thus carried upwards. Going down is a slippery business. The guides have to slide along on the steep, soft mountain side. Everything seems black and sooty, and the II SDiati? of ^^ European ^rip, 1900 grandeur of Vesuvius is enhanced by see- ing it at a distance, and particularly at sun- set. Returning to Naples, we viewed again the marble houses, many having, in American parlance. Dago clothes hanging from the windows, and it really seemed like sacrilege to see the red and yellow shirts and garments hanging from marble build- ings occupied by these poor, dirty Nea- politans, whose greatest delight seems to be to eat raw onions and cheese grated into their soup — cheese, in fact, in any way and at every meal — and one sees cheeseshops where they sell the article from the size of an apple up to the size of a small wagon-wheel. April twelfth, we left Naples for the beautiful town of Sorrento, by way of Cas- tellamare. After leaving the train at Cas- tellamare, we expected to take a carriage at once for our destination. Here, however, we allowed ourselves to be fooled by one of those Italian rogues who came to us with a Cook & Co. badge pinned on his coat, and, 2r>iar^ of ^^ (I];uropean Wxip^ 1900 telling us to step for a few minutes into the cafe, and taking our hand-bags away from us, we had to follow. Many carriages were waiting, but this rascal told us he would provide us with a safe conveyance and good driver, while we would take a cup of good coffee before taking this long ride. In a very few minutes the car- riages all disappeared, and I became suspi- cious and asked my children what we were waiting for. The rascal at last could keep us no longer, after offering us all kinds of his musty cakes, for which we had to pay him good, clean money. He finally got us an old rattletrap and off we started, paying him in advance. I kept complaining and had my suspicions, and spoke of them. When we had gone a few blocks from the station the rascally driver told us his horse was lame and he could go no farther, and across the wayside there was a man who had the right to drive people to Sorrento, if we would pay him two dollars more. So the imitation Cook's agent sold us his 13 Wm^ of ^^ CBuropean ^rip, 1900 coffee, and sold us into the bargain, in spite of our being smart Americans. After driv- ing through a picturesque little village called Meta, having about eight thousand inhabitants, we soon entered Sorrento and drove to the Grand Hotel Tramentano, owned by Signer Tramentano, a perfect palace, where the great Italian poet Tasso was born. We drank our coffee in the very room where he first saw the light of day. Many of these hotels are situated on an abrupt hill rising from the sea, and have magnificent gardens, or rather groves, of orange and lemon trees. They have pri- vate stairs descending to the sea, where there are small bathing- rooms. The view is magnificent. These orange and lemon trees are growing there without cultivation, just as our oak and fir trees grow. Sor- rento is famous for its beautiful wood-carv- ing establishments ; also marqueterie, inlaid goods, and silk manufacture. All these Roman colorings are as nothing compared to the glorious view where castles and huge 14 SDiar^ of ^^ European tETap, 1900 mountains seem to commingle, and look as though ready to dip together into the sea and slide along into the placid blue waters. On April fourteenth we drove from Sor- rento to the greatest of all wonders, the dead and resurrected city of Pompeii. The entrance to the ruins is quite near to the railroad station and to the new and living town. After going into a little tavern for luncheon, one procures guides, and, after paying a small entrance fee, goes into a small museum where can be seen many of the victims of that terrible calamity. Pompeii existed before Christ. The wall of the town proves of even greater antiq- uity. Being situated near the sea, on an ancient volcanic eminence, it was of great importance, being near the navigable river Sarnus. The sea and river were sepa- rated by convulsions. In 63 B.C. a great earthquake destroyed part of the town, which was then rebuilt in much greater splendor, and w^hat one sees now proves that the ancients were finer artists than 15 SDiat^ of !3p^ Curopran ^np, 1900 any living in this age. The magnificence of their paintings and inlaid marbles, their monuments and their beautiful statues, is astonishing. Oh, the beauty of it all! Their rooms still show the beautiful mo- saic flooring; their walls covered with paintings of divine maidens in picturesque poses with lutes or water-jugs. It is mar- vellous to think that all this art splendor could remain buried for ages, and then only be discovered by chance by well-diggers when looking for water. We have seen one room, with the walls gorgeously painted, which had been discovered only three years ago. Many of the valuables and fine statues have been removed to the museum at Naples by the authorities, who feared their destruction by the elements. The en- tire city of Pompeii is naturally roofless — no doors, no windows, no domes left, only side walls and marble pillars still standing, ex- cepting where the authorities have covered some of the most valuable paintings to pre- serve them ; for these Neapolitans are very i6 SDtai:^ of ^^ European tCrip^ 1900 proud of these antiquities. At the Httle mu- seum near the entrance of the dead city, one sees wonderful sights. The human beings are all under glass covering. It seems as though one could still see their agony by the manner of their position and by the cramping of their limbs and the death struggle depicted upon their faces, with only a thin veil of lava covering them in the natural position in which they were found. The most noticeable are a very young woman, with a golden chain upon her neck; a mother and daughter closely coiled together asleep; a young woman, soon to become a mother, apparently strug- gling for life. Many animals are preserved here — donkeys, dogs, and all manner of house animals. This dead city, with its many streets, cannot be traversed in a short time by those who are not good pedestrians, as it is up-hill through a grove. So those who wish to employ the guides with chairs can avail themselves of this comfort. Two men carry one person. Here Emma and I 17 SDiarf of £p^ European Xl^vip^ 1900 were carried upward through the narrow streets until we reached some of the places of importance; then we started to walk. The first place of note we visited was the Forum. Many of the streets of Pompeii are still named, such as the Street of Mer- cury, Street of Fortune, etc. Then one goes through the Herculaneum gate to the Street of Tombs. Pompeii must have used few vehicles, and these must have been very small, as the streets, in most in- stances, are too narrow for anything but donkey-carts. After visiting the Forum, one goes to the Temple of Jupiter, the Ma- cellum, a hall that was utilized for the sale of provisions, etc. All the walls are still decorated with different kinds of edibles, to show what the place was used for. There are steps everywhere leading into under- ground rooms and cells. There are em- blems to designate what each house that was not a palace was utilized for. Men carrying wine jars show that wine was here sold, etc. Near the Forum is the great The- i8 SDiar^ of !^^ CDuropean Wtip^ 1900 atre and Temple of Isis. The Amphithe- atre had a space for twenty thousand spec- tators on the ground floor alone. There are hundreds of houses, with inscriptions still on them, where once lived great orators, statesmen, kings, princes, and gladiators. Tombs are seen in great number. There are no signs of windows having been built in the houses. A small court to each house is found, and the light and air must have come from these and the domes. It is easy to distinguish the rooms by the fine paint- ings on the walls still standing, such as reclining nude figures of beautiful maid- ens in the sleeping-rooms, also musical instruments touched by beautiful youths and maidens. It is almost impossible to describe this wonderful dead city. One must see it to believe it all. The streets have stone pavings, and in many places beautiful mosaic floorings are still pre- served in all their lovely colorings. Many high columns of marble and unbroken walls are still standing. In leaving the dead city 19 2Diar^ of ^^ CBuropean tKtipt 1900 and turning into the new and living town, one breathes a prayer that these people may not suffer the fate of those who lived so near to them ages before ; for the de- structive old Vesuvius is still there. On April twenty-first we arrived at Rome and stopped at Grand Hotel Quiri- nal. Then commenced sight-seeing in ear- nest. Ill iOME, the Eternal City, the cap- ital of Italy, contains 400,000 inhabitants, is situated on the Tiber River, and with its Corso diich runs a mile long, and its sub- lime works of art and its picturesque hills, is the most wonderful city in the world, for here surely are to be seen the chief monuments of antiquity. The more modern (the northern) part of the city seems to be the strangers' quar- ters. We first visited the great and wonder- ful St. Peter's, the building of which was started more than four hundred years ago, and is still unfinished. The church is situated on a semicircular eminence, and its approach looks like a village. Hun- dreds of life-size statues are on the outside rotunda. Millions of dollars have been ex- pended here for grandeur that the Catholic H>iar^ of ^^ CBuropean tBtip, 1900 world has paid for. The Interior is marvel- lous, so very many different altars and eac/i^ more gorgeous than its neighbor. Such colossal statues of all saints, as well as all important biblical subjects ! The one I considered the most wonderful is situated to the right of the largest altar, and is " the Madonna and Christ Child." I have been told that many years were spent in seeking a marble that had a roseate coloring, and having at last obtained this it was used in forming the face of the Madonna and the face and toes of the Christ Child. This pinkish tint gives a life-like appearance and is wonderful. This is the only statue having such a roseate coloring. On the day of our visit to St. Peter's, we received the Pope's benediction. The Pope was carried by many men into the church. He was preceded by twenty-eight chamber- lains, with great flourish of trumpets and banners. Thousands of people suffered the torture of standing for hours in a dense crowd, awaiting his Eminence, the silly 22 SDiar^ of £p^ C^uropean tE^rip, 1900 writer of these lines amongst the number. Then we were at last rewarded by seeing an aged little man standing upon a high throne chair, with the fingers of his right hand extended towards the populace, as though throwing his blessings amongst them, a huge emerald ring blazing upon his index finger. His vestments of white satin were heavily embroidered in gold ; also the small white satin skull-cap upon his rever- ential head. Ten thousand pilgrims came from all over Europe to receive this bless- ing. Many people held their children to- wards the Pope, also all kinds of articles, rosaries. Bibles, etc., for the benediction. The Pope, at this time over ninety years old, rarely gives these public benedictions, as he is quite feeble. The Pope lives at the Vatican, and is always carried through the vast corridors from his apartments into St. Peter's Church. The great and won- derful Vatican, who can describe it? It is the largest palace in the world, and ad- joins St. Peter's Church. The Vatican has 23 SDiar^ of ^^ European Wtip, 1900 twenty courts, and eleven thousand halls and rooms. Many artists make their stu- dios here, copying the wonderful pictures. I saw the greatest living mosaic painter of the world painting a hundred-thousand- dollar mosaic for the Emperor of Russia. He gave me his autograph, and his name is Companiti Musaicista, Studio Vatican. The hall that made the greatest impres- sion upon me is where " The Creation " is, painted by Raphael and one corner -of the work finished by Michael Angelo. " The Creation " is an inspiration that can never be duplicated: the glory and holiness of the Lord Almighty, represented sitting upon a great heavenly throne surrounded by a wonderful dark nothingness; then gradually comes Heaven, and farther on earth and water; then living, creeping things, semi-darkness ; then a burst of light ; then Paradise and Adam; then it seems as though the Lord just wafted Eve into the arms of Adam. Cain, Abel, the tree of knowledge, the serpent, the throwing 24 SDiat^ of £0^ CDuropean W^xip, 1900 out from Paradise, the killing of Abel, the Deluge — in fact, the entire biblical pano- rama is represented here in beautiful life- like coloring. There are so many of these halls with wonderful paintings — in fact, the Vatican abounds in wonders and it would take months to see it all thoroughly. Even upon entering, one is surprised at the pomp and show. The soldiers and guards are dressed so picturesquely: long, light-blue coats with red collars, knee-breeches, yel- iow-and-black striped stockings, red-and- gold banded hats, shoes with huge silver buckles, an immense musket carried by these tallest of men, finishes a description of the singular costumes of these Swiss Guards, which were originally designed by Michael Angelo. After visiting the Vatican, one starts in to see some of the many other wonders of this most wonderful city. The Burgo Norvo is situated one square from St. Pe- ter's Church. We drove daily past the fa- mous tower Dore de MelHsia, where Nero 25 - s>iar^ of ^^ European ^rip, 1900 fiddled while Rome was burning. We vis- ited the great St. Paul's Church. It is called by many as grand as St. Peter's. We also saw the different museums and other picture galleries. However, to see all the important palaces and wonders it would indeed take many months, and even a few years to do all intelligently. There are seven bridges over the Tiber, and the aqueducts are marvels of architecture. We were warned by some of our fellow- passengers who lived in Rome not to drink w^ater while sojourning there, but I found the water so pure, and after hear- ing how the water was brought in from the Sabine Mountains, fifty-three miles away, I had no further fears in regard to drinking it. Wishing to see the least favorable part of Rome, we drove to the Ghetto, which I found the very poorest and worst of the many such places I have visited. It lies way down among the sand dunes, and one junk-shop seemed close up to its neigh- 26 SDiar^ of ^^ €ntopun ^rip, 1900 bor, also a few old-clothes shops, invariably guarded by some very old woman. One of these particularly attracted my attention, as she seemed a veritable Mrs. Noah, so old and bent was she. She had one child in her arms and a number clinging" about h^r skirts. I asked the driver to stop and beckoned her to come to the wagon, and asked her if she was a Yehuda (Jewish). She nearly jumped into the wagon, and gave me a Roman fright, shouting: "It's Pasach " (Easter), and ran away to bring me some matzos (Easter crackers). It was like an iron-pitted plate, so black, heavy, and leady. I gave her some coins, and then she held her various grandchildren into the carriage; they also received some money. Then she resorted to a regular Italian trick: she took from her pocket a small whistle and blew it, whereupon about ten ragged urchins came scampering from I know not where, but all surrounding our wagon and begging for money. We gave them some copper coins, but seeing the mob increase, my 27 mm^ of £p^ (II;uvopean XE^tip^ 1900 children begged me to desist and drive on, as we would surely get into trouble, and it was quite a job to rid ourselves of these poor creatures, as they clung to the wagon until the driver threatened them with the whip. These people appeared so poor and unfortunate it gave one a heartache to just look at them. Now comes the Pantheon to be seen. It is one of the best-preserved old buildings, built in the year 27 B.C. Great excavations are now in progress, revealing Roman works and buildings, etc. Then we visited the vast Colosseum, Rome's greatest marvel. It was founded by Vespasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives completing the work in a.d. 80. Ten thousand men and five thousand beasts were slain at its inaugura- tion. Wonderful fights of gladiators were then witnessed. In the fourteenth and fif- teenth centuries its fine masonry was pil- laged to build wonderful palaces. One can still see where the bronze and steel was dug out and stolen, and of this material the 28 SDiar^ of ^^ (I];uropran tETrip^ 1900 nobles made use to fashion their homes and war implements. The Colosseum is 156 feet high, with arena 279 by 174 feet, and one feels a sorrow to see it thus partly de- molished. ^The Colonna Palace, the Villa Borghese Medici, Raphael's villa, where one sees Canova's painting of Pauline Bona- parte and many other wonderful pictures, also interest one immensely. We went through the Quirinal Palace, the former home of the Pope, now occupied by King Humbert and Queen Margharita. It is all frescoed by Raphael. The apartments of Napoleon are still in fine condition. Rome is great and wonderful, and I would take great delight in seeing it again and the beautiful country surrounding Rome. We also saw Tivoli, founded five centuries before Rome. It is a primitive-looking country, where many paper mills are in operation in very primitive style. After seeing so very much, the desire came to me to go again to the Forum, and stand where Mark Antony delivered his famous 29 2r>iar^ of £ia^ European ^rtp, 1900 funeral oration, before saying farewell to the Holy City of Rome. After leaving Rome I felt that nothing very great could be found elsewhere, yet many beautiful scenes and places came to our vision. From Rome we went, on May fifth, to the beautiful city of Florence, situ- ated on the lovely river Arno. We saw in the Palace Pitti many beautiful pictures painted by Murillo, Raphael, and Michael Angelo, as well as Titian's beautiful works; all wonderful, and things one never can see in America. Florence is indeed a lovely city, and a city of flowers and fine art. We spent some happy days here among art and artists, and visited Santa Cruz Pantheon, the best museum of the fourteenth century. Michael Angelo is buried here ; also Ros- sini, Machiavelli, and Amerigo Vespucci, all in wonderful sepulchres. From Florence we travelled to Milan, where my son-in-law met his dear friend of years' standing, the Count Salis, a very in- teresting old nobleman who, although an 30 Wm^ of ^p (I];uropean XH^tip^ 1900 Italian by birth, is, as well, a German by education, and to the dear old Count we are greatly indebted for many enjoyable days in Milan, which we visited three times. We enjoyed tile Italian lakes greatly. Leav- ing Milan we went to Lake Como, Caden- abia Bellagia and Menagia, where one gets a grand view of the Swiss Alps. The town of Como is a pretty place and has many silk factories. Here, right at the edge of the beautiful lake, we bought some lovely silk couch-covers and souvenirs. One sees so many lovely places here, such as Verona — the home and birthplace of Shakespeare's lovely heroine in his play of "Romeo and Juliet" — where the home of Juliet is still pointed out. Here, at the cor- ner of Lake Lecco and Lake Como, we visited the Villa Serbolini, where one hears the legend of the Countess Serbolini, who threw her lover into a cistern that emptied into the lake, and only after her death was this tragedy discovered. At Cadenabia we saw the Duchess of Sachsen Meinigen take 31 a>iai:^ of ^^ Curopean ^rip, 1900 a gondola ride with her ladies-in-waiting. Her palace is just at the lake side. Her gondola, as well as all her attendants, were decorated in white and green colors. This unique livery looked most charming upon the lovely Italian lake. Now, again, we returned to Milan, and from thence we went to Genoa, where we saw all things of interest, the most important being their wonderful Campo Santo. No home for the departed can compare with this home of the dead. Entire histories are worked into the wonderful monuments and tombs. Most pathetic pictures in marble are seen here — so life-like. Parents stretching out arms towards their children, husbands and wives bidding each other farewell. Their homes are pictured in marble of the most beautiful workmanship. Genoa is a fine seaport, but one is easily satisfied to go back to Milan, as we soon did. On May fifth we went to Nice. It being past the season of gaiety and floral festivals, it seemed a dull place, with 32 SDiarp of {ipr ([I;uropean tE^ript 1900 dozens of empty hotels and boarding- houses. It is a nice little town, however, and in its season very gay. We had now a jol- lier visit in storg for our party, as we went to Monte Carlo, which is situated on a most picturesque eminence. Here we found a number of Americans, some of our friends amongst them, which made it very pleas- ant. Our curiosity naturally led us first to the Casino, the great gaming-place of Monte Carlo. We watched with great in- terest the raking-in of money by the game- sters, as well as looking upon the rakes. The bankers use small rakes to gather in the coin upon the long tables. It is in- teresting to watch the faces of the lucky as well as the unlucky players. Many of these are women, and some very flashy, bejewelled ones at that. Naturally, we wanted to feel how it is to stake money at the greatest gambling-place in the world. So we gave them some of our good American dollars. Before being admitted into the gambling-room, one has to go to the office 33 SDiar^ of ^^ (European W^tip, 1900 and have his name, age, and place of resi- dence registered, as many poor victims, after losing their last dollars, from sheer desperation commit suicide, and the au- thorities do not wish to have these poor people upon their hands, and at once can communicate with the relatives, in order to rid themselves of all trouble. Now, for the third time, we went to Milan and dear old Count Salis, and after a few days we started for beautiful Venice, with its elegant marble palaces and its wonder- ful street-canals, and its queer, funny men, called hookers, who start the lovely gon- dolas with their long iron hooks. Omni- bus-boats are used here just as omnibuses are used in America. These boat 'busses are patronized principally by the w^orking people to convey them to their work or places of business. Venice has very many lace and silk manufacturies. One goes to see the wonderful St. Mark's Place, where for a thousand years thousands of pigeons have been kept by the municipality. They 34 SDiar^ of ^^ (I];uropean tE^rip^ 1900 are fed daily and cared for on this public square, where old people as well as children stand about and sell little packages of corn for a few centissimos, and nearly all travel- lers avail themselves of this pleasure to feed the pigeons. When holding a few kernels of corn in the hand many flock about one and eat from the hand, and others perch upon one's shoulder and about one's person, awaiting their turn to receive a few kernels. So tame are these little creatures that it is perfectly delightful to watch them. At Venice we visited the palace of the Doges, the great galleries and stone prisons of torture. We walked over the famous " Bridge of Sighs," and also rode in a gon- dola under it, and peered into the canal, almost thinking we could see the poor vic- tims of ages gone by who were thrown into these waters from their stone prison above. 35 IV ROM Venice we started, bidding farewell to beautiful Italy with many regrets, and wishing at some future day to have the great pleasure of revisiting that sunny clime with all its marvellous antiquities, its beautiful art as well as its creeping horrors and places of torture of the dark ages. Every new place while trav- elling is fraught with interest and pleasure, so, while regretting what is left behind, it is but natural to look for the beacon-light ahead with renewed interest and expecta- tion, our destination being Austria, where we could expect to enjoy the language and spend gulden in place of lires, and exchange the sights of the holy cities for the more lively and naughty ones, for so I compare Vienna to Rome. After leaving Venice we started for the little village of Villach, not 37 Diar^ of ^^ European XBtip, 1900 wishing to travel far into the night and thereby lose the view of the Semerich Mountains, which are well worth going slow for and breaking our journey in two. Be- sides the sight of the beautiful snow-capped mountains, we enjoyed a night of primitive experience by stopping at a little wayside inn called Hotel Mosser Willach, the best the town afforded, where my precious granddaughter made me feel like a child again by tumbling me under the high feath- er-beds, and asking me to listen to the tread of the wooden shoes ; and, when our bit of candle burnt low, began asking me if I heard the ghosts walking at our chamber door and if I would please get up and pick up the big feather bed that had fallen near the door, as she had lost her covering, which, by the way, the little rascal had thrown there to test my courage. However, the beautiful morning came none too soon, and when we walked into the well-scrubbed and sanded bar and din- ing-room combined, of the inn, we were 38 SDiat^ of £p^ European tE^rip, 1900 very well rewarded by getting such a break- fast of home-cured shinken (ham), new-laid eggs and pancakes, that we forgot all about the night undej^ feathers, or the morning rub with coarse sack towelling, etc. The next night we were on " easy street," for we were housed at the famous Hotel Bristol, the resort of many of the nobility, where wooden shoes and feather covering are unknown. Vienna is situated on the famous blue Danube. Although Vienna was once a Celtic village and later a Ro- man fort, it is to-day a wonderful pleasure- loving city, with its beautiful Prater, its immense forest park, where all the fashion- able world goes to dine and listen to the wonderful concerts given by the Cappellen band. Here people go to sup and dine and almost forget home life during the summer months, as they live almost entirely in the open air, and in fact that is the case nearly all over Germany, as well as in the greater part of Europe, where the streets are much used as restaurants. A beautiful drive 39 SDiar^ of £p^ European ^rip, 1900 from Vienna brings one to the lovely subur- ban spot Schonbrun, the imperial residence. Here Napoleon the Great had his residence and his headquarters, and here his son died in the year 1832. Now we turn back to Vienna and can well see how proud the Austrians can be of their capital. Vienna has one million four hundred thousand in- habitants. It is a great art centre and a most wonderful city. The bronzes are be- coming each year more favored, also the manufacture of beautiful leather goods is greatly adding to their commerce. One cannot forget, while thinking of the many good things on earth, that the Vienna con- fections (Wiener Backwerk) are world fa- mous, and Vienna should really be termed the father of all bakeries, for nowhere does one find quite such good things in that line as in the beautiful city on the blue Danube, which, by the way, is not blue at all, but rather a muddy-looking gray-blue, but after all a noble stream. 40 V N May the fifth we arrived at the fine German city of Munich, the great capital of Bavaria, with its three hundred and fifty thou- sand inhabitants. It is situated on the River Isar. We visited the Pitti Palace, which is in imitation of the Pitti Palace in Florence, and after having seen the original palace one is not quite so much enthused to see an imitation. There are a number of beautiful things to be seen in Mu- nich, such as the gallery of famous beautiful women (Schoenheits Gallerie) and many places of interest, not forgetting the won- derful beer stuben, for nowhere in Germany does one find such pure and excellent beer as in Munich ; even their babies seem to thrive on beer, for the Mianchner kindle are said to be fattened on beer. After a week's stay in the famous beer-drinking 41 SDiar^ of ^v €ntoptmx ^tip, 1900 atmosphere, we started for the picturesque little village of Ober-Ammergau, which nestles at the foot of the Bavarian High- lands. A railway runs along the shores of the beautiful Lake of Starnberg, the same in which the young King Ludwig the Second lost his life. While riding along, one sees the mountain range of the Alps. The ordi- nary population is about fourteen hundred inhabitants, but in 1890 more than two hun- dred thousand people visited this quaint lit- tle village, and in 1900 many more visitors were there. All came to see the famous Passion-Play produced, the same being played only once in ten years, and played only by the villagers themselves. Men, women, and children are here trained for ten years, all looking forward to this great performance which brings the important revenue of the lives of these peasants, who have vowed to play, and dedicate themselves religiously once in ten years to this mam- moth enterprise. It is remarkable,^upon en- 42 2r>iar^ of ^^ European tE^rip, 1900 tering the village, to see men and boys going about with their hair hanging below their shoulders, and invariably blond hair, all left to grow, in i^rder to personate properly the different characters in the Passion-Play. The play is indeed a marvel. Men, women, and children, to the number of seven hun- dred and more, take part, and as many as seven hundred at one time enter upon the stage; this being the scene where Christ enters Jerusalem riding upon a donkey, and the multitude cheering and marching with him. The auditorium is under cover and contains seats for four thousand peo- ple. The stage, however, is left open, and gives this solemn drama a great natural- ness. The hundreds of women who come upon the stage are all ordinary peasant- women ; some few fine-looking, but mostly all coarse-looking rustics with sunburnt arms and necks, and quite clumsy, showing large hands and feet, but possessing good voices. The Passion-Play begins at 8 o'clock in the morning and, excepting an 43 SDiar^ of ®^ Cutopean ®rip^ 1900 intermission for the noon-meal hour, lasts until six in the evening". It is a realistic performance, particularly the Lord's Sup- per and the Crucifixion, which create quite a feeling. The accommodations are very primitive, and tourists generally leave the little mountain village the morning after the play, to make room for the next comers. From Ober-Ammergau we re- turned to Munich, and then we started for the quaint old city of Nuremberg. It has one hundred and forty thousand inhabi- tants, many of these living in old mediaeval houses, with high towers and fine, ancient- looking windows. One of its important sights to see is the old Burg, the first castle built in Nuremberg, and built on a rock that formed a place of refuge for its first knights and warriors. Here exists the Tiefer Brunnen (the deep well), where the sight-seeing traveller sees a bucket let down hundreds of feet, with a lighted candle in- side the bucket to show the real depth of the well. Here foreigners are permitted to 44 H>iar^ of ^^ CButopean ^rip^ 1900 buy curios fashioned out of pewter, sup- posedly during the seventeenth century. It nearly became mv fate to be hoaxed, also. Admiring a fine pewter jug, engraved with the name and station Hans Shaunberger, burgermeister of Nuremberg two hundred and fifty years previous, I naturally wanted to buy such an antique jug for my collec- tion. I was wondering how the Nurem- bergers could possess so little enthusiasm as to let such an heirloom, that once graced the home of their beloved burgermeister, be carried away by Americans. My suspi- cions being aroused, I asked the woman who has charge of the antiquities if she could not get me a mate of the jug, as I liked such ornaments in pairs, and w^ould like to buy a second one to match. She said : " Oh ! The Americans all admire this pattern, it is so beautiful ; that is why we sell this kind of jug so often, and it will be some days before I can procure another one." I enjoyed a good laugh and told my son-in-law that I thought I would let the 45 2Diar^ of £0^ European ^rip^ 1900 Nurembergers keep their heirlooms or let some other foolish American be made happy by thinking that he had added a genuine art piece to his curio cabinet, and again I mentally added: ''Where igno- rance is bliss, it's folly to be wise." Nuremberg is noted for its various toy factories, and seems the great centre of trade between north and south Germany. The great wall that encircles this romantic town has seventy-five towers of masonry, and its moat, that has now run dry, has a stone bulkhead and runs through a great part of this picturesque city. Nuremberg has many beautiful public monuments, such as the monument of Hans Sachs, the cobbler poet; the little Goose Man, etc. Near the beautiful Frauen Kirche stands the foun- tain of virtue, with the many female forms spouting water constantly. After a lovely visit in Nuremberg and also the adjacent town of Fiirth, where we left a goodly amount of American money, buying ivories for which this little city is noted, we started 46 sr>tar^ of ^^ (Buropean tZTrip, 1900 for a visit to my son-in-law's old boyhood home, the little village of Wambach. From there we travelled to Frankfort-on-the- Main. This was a free city from 1356 to 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is beautiful, and more like an American than a German city. It contains great wealth, as so many millionaires live here in palaces. We visited the house where the great poet Goethe w^as born, and where he wrote his wonderful " Werther." This house is now the city's property and is kept in splendid condition for the benefit of visitors. The Palm Garden is the pride of the Frankforters. It is a park garden where the residents spend much of their time. Beautiful illuminations and fine concerts induce people to sit there after- noons and also to take evening meals there. It impressed me greatly that home life in Germany during the summer months was an indifferent sort of life, as the hospitality of the Germans in many cities means sim- ply an invitation to meet them at such-and- 47 SE>tat^ of ^^ Curopran ^xip, 1900 such a garden and sup with them, and very often after the invitation has been accepted and one is told that all the members of their families, and even some good friends are going to meet them, the hospitable Teuton will not quarrel with his American friends if they choose to pay the bills, but will sim- ply smile, order more beer, and say : " Oh ! you Americans are so liberal." In Frankfort there is really very much to see. The Zoological Garden is beautiful. We visited the Ghetto, driving through the Yudengasse where the Rothschild family originated. We saw the old Stamm house, where the greatest financiers of the world first saw the light of day ; also the old syna- gogue. In these quarters the persecuted Jews lived from 1462 until 1806. Here the gates closed and were chained in the even- ing and no Jew was permitted outside. The Zeil is the finest street in Frankfort. They have a fine opera-house and many important buildings. After enjoying a pleasant time and visiting our American 48 miut^ of ^^ European XE^tip, 1900 friends, Mrs. Frank L. and Mrs. John L., who both Hve in palaces, we started for the third time for Nuremberg and from there we started, June twenty-first, for the won- derful Kurplatz Carlsbad. 49 VI ARLSBAD has indeed no equal as a watering-place. Its numer- ous mineral springs are world- famous and health - restoring. Sixty thousand guests are sup- posed to visit this little city annu- ally. Here one meets kings, queens, princes, and nobles of both high and low degree, all seeking lost health like other poor mortals. The waters are considered a panacea for liver, kidney, and most all stomach complaints. The Moor baths are considered so beneficial for rheumatics and kindred ailments. Nowhere does one see more pomp and display of jewel-bedecked and finely-clad humanity than at Carlsbad, and yet nowhere does one live so simply. People go early in the morning for their cure, walking to the spring designated by their physician with cup in hand, or at- 51 SDtar^ of 05^ Cuvopran W^tip, 1900 tached to a leather strap generally worn around the shoulder. One sees a very or- derly crowd awaiting in line their turn to be served with the healing fluid. After drinking, people walk up and down the colonnade until the amount of water one is to drink is finished. Then one goes to one of the numerous bake-shops and selects some of the small rolls of bread according to fancy, or as has been ordered by one's physician. These rolls are invariably put into a pink paper bag, and then one also buys a portion of boiled ham (shinken), ac- cording to the doctor's instructions. With these, people start to walk to the many beautiful gardens or cafes situated from half a mile to three or more miles distant. Here one is served by fine-looking young women with coffee or tea, but always in the open air. There are no street-cars in Carls- bad, so walking is a necessity, and the park- like roadway helps one to enjoy the exercise, and whets one's appetite. Carlsbad is in- deed a very gay place and amusements of 52 2Diar^ of ^^ (l];uropean ^rip^ 1900 various kinds are to be found there. Con- certs twice during the day and in the eve- ning, at which several hundred musicians play at once, most beautifully, in the open air. Then one can go to the races, the the- atre, besides enjoying lovely mountain and valley drives, always landing in the after- noon at some famous garden for coffee. It is indeed an ideal life. Then the numerous small shops are very enticing and people of all nationalities are seen shopping; from stylishly dressed dames from the fashion centres of Europe to the queer-looking Polish Israelites from all parts of Russia as well. Many of these are a wonder to look at, with their black corkscrew curls at either side of the face, and golden ear- and finger- rings, and long frock coats, for I do not want to forget that these curly dudes are men, in spite of their curls and jewels. A legend tells us that Charles the Second dis- covered the spot now called after him Carls- bad. While he was out hunting he became separated from his companions in riding 53 2r>iar^ of ^^ CDuropcan Wnp^ 1900 through the forest after a stag which was fleeing from him and he was pursuing. He saw the deer disappear, then appear and jump from a high rock. This same rock is now famous and called the " Hir- shen Sprung" (''Stag's Leap"). Such an amount of steam was arising from the place that Charles left his steed and started to look for the cause, as well as for his fleeing deer. When descending the declivity, what was his surprise to see the deer float- ing in a pool ot hot water; the poor deer, however, was completely cooked, having jumped into what is now known as the greatest health-giving and most impor- tant spring, the " Sprudel." Carlsbad has lovely mountain passes where those who are unable to walk go up in pony car- riages or on donkeys. There are vari- ous fine hotels here, the most famous be- ing run by the brothers Pupp, who own a great part of this town. The Hotel Sa- voy is also very fine and has an oriental air about it, service and all. One leaves Carls- 54 SDiar^ of ^^ Cutopean ^rip, 1900 bad with the feeHng of having been greatly benefited by its waters, and many think that in order to keep well they must return there every year or two. We left Carlsbad with some dear friends for the lovely little Kur place, called Shandau, on the River Elba, where we visited the beautiful moun- tain spots, the Bastai, the Brant, etc. Then we started for the great city of Ber- lin, the capital of Prussia and of Germany, which contains over one million and a half inhabitants, and is situated on the Spree, a fine river, and a fine city to go on a spree for those so inclined. The finest part of the city is Unter den Linden, a very wide avenue over one mile long, and lined on either side with linden trees. There are a number of palaces on this avenue, also a great number of fine statues and fine stores and elegant hotels. With its great population, an endless stream of people seem to be rushing and going at all hours. From Berlin we went to Potsdam, the lit- tle town with its military air. It is situated 55 2Diar^ of 9^^ dEuroptan ^rip, 1900 sixteen miles from Berlin. The lakes of the Havel are grand. At Potsdam one sees the San Souci palace, built by Frederick the Great, the royal palace built in 1660, and the new palace built in 1750, a most wonderful building containing a marble salon, with its walls and ceiling made into most beautiful designs from minerals and shells formed into all kinds of marine ani- mals and coral-beds. Potsdam has fifty thousand inhabitants. The little city is always very gay, as the present ruler, the Emperor of Germany, lives here from April until December of each year. The Crown Prince has now a palace of his own. He is but eighteen years old, but his father, the Emperor, some few months ago presented him with this lovely palace. From Berlin we went to Dresden, a most artistic city with three hundred and forty thousand inhabitants. The River Elba runs beautifully along this fine city. The Elba is crossed by two mammoth stone bridges. One of the finest possessions of 56 2Diar^ of 90^ Cutopean tErip^ 1900 Dresden is its beautiful museum. It con- tains, at this date, two thousand four hun- dred fine paintings, and many valuable engravings. Very many English and American families are living in Dresden and having their children educated there because it offers so much in the line of amusement and culture ; besides, the cost of living is less there than elsewhere. From Dresden w^e returned to Berlin, and thence to the picturesque little city of Eisenach, situated in the Thuringen Wald (Turien- gen Forest). The town is built in the very heart of the forest, and dozens of hotels and pensions are just in the midst of these woods, where a lovely little stream winds right along its centre. Here we saw the famous Wacht Burg (the Watch Tower) where Martin Luther found a place of refuge, and here he rewrote the Bible. We saw the room in which he wrote ; the ink- spots are still to be seen where he threw the ink-well against the wall. Here is a most picturesque spot to enjoy rural life in 57 SDiat^ of ^^ European XILtip, 1900 a health-giving atmosphere. A noted in- stitute for speech impediments as well as other schools are here established. From Eisennach we travelled to the town of Elt- ville. Here we got to the world's famous river Rhine in all its beauty. On a glori- ous day we embarked up the Rhine and enjoyed the many beautiful stopping-places*, not forgetting the much - sung poetical town of Bingen — yes, " The Bingen on the Rhine " ; thence returning and again view- ing the lovely old castles, and going up this noble river to Mayence. This city is the birthplace of Gutenberg, the inventor of printing. We saw the house where he was born and where the first printing-office was established. This inventor of printing is much more spoken of and his memory more revered in the Old than in the New World. Mayence has sixty-eight thousand inhabitants, and was a French town for twenty-two years, or from 1792 to 1814. It then became Hessian. It also possesses many fine monuments. From Mayence 58 SE>iat^ of ^^ ([];ui[:opean tlTrip^ 1900 we returned to Nuremberg for the fourth time. After bidding our friends and rela- tives a Jinal gooa-bye, we started for the Paradise of Europe, Switzerland. r** 59 VII N July thirty-first, we arrived at the mountainous town of FHmms. The Wald House FHmms is the only large hotel, there being a number of smaller taverns and pensions to choose from. Here we took what is called a *' Nach Kur" (after cure), after our Carls- bad cure. Here one takes a Luft Kur (air cure). About all they have to offer here is air. I greatly resented this, as I felt that when one could live and breathe in a sublime place like Interlacken, it was a loss of time to go up to this mountain re- sort, but it did not last too long. We were near the pretty village of Richenau, where we could look at the head of the great river Rhine, and at Timminz Walderstein on the Walder See, and also had a glorious view 6i 2Diar^ of Wv €nvoptmx ^rip, 1900 of the beautiful Alps and the fertile valley below. On August fourteenth we started for the most picturesque city of Lucerne. On our way thither we stopped at one of the prin- cipal educational cities of Switzerland, the city of Zurich. Its greatest beauty is its lake. Lake Zurich, like all Swiss lakes, is a beautiful silvery sheet of water in the heart of the city. The great educational building is the polytechnic, situated on an eminence affording a fine view of the town and a fine mountain range and valley scenery. Our hotel, the Bauer Au Lac, is built right on the very edge of Lake Zurich. We started for Lucerne, knowing well what pleasure was in store for us, for everywhere one hears that Lucerne is the queen city of Switzerland. Lucerne, like all these other Swiss cities, has its beautiful lake — Lake Lucerne, where one can take a fine boat- ride right in sight of the numerous fine ho- tels that are built also at the edge of this broad, beautiful, deep lake. The first thing 62 mm^ of ^^ €nxoptm ^tip, 1900 one is supposed to go to see, is its famous lion of Lucerne, which is carved in the rock, where it was hewn in commemoration of a battle where thousands of Swiss sol- diers perished. Here the women took part in the battle and came out victorious, and this lion was carved in honor of their vic- tory. Back of this rock is a wonderful Gletcher Garden (a glacier), where huge millstones are still lying deep down the embankment where perhaps thousands of years ago they had been hurled, and where snow and ice must have had its home. Many lovely drives are to be taken from Lucerne, and one of the finest places to visit is the Brienzen See (lake). Then there are so many suburban towns to go to, like Oxenstein and numerous other pen- sions, where tourists enjoy the fine moun- tain air. Above all lovely places to see, first in number comes that sublime moun- tain scene, the Fier Wald Stetter See. My impression is that nothing can rival that glorious sheet of water. While viewing 63 SDiat^ of ^^ (Buropean ®rip, 1900 this lovely lake one drives through a tunnel hewn right through the heart of the great Swiss mountains. Coming down this pic- turesque drive one gets to the William Tell chapel (cappelle). Here a great painting is enshrined showing where Tell threw his enemy into the seething lake, and this chapel was built at the edge of the lake to commemorate this deed. One leaves Lu- cerne with many regrets, and I, for one, just begged for a few days more, so en-^ chanted was I ; but time was altogether too short, considering what was yet to be seen, and our itinerary had to be followed. From Lucerne we travelled to Geneva, also a lovely city and picturesque, as is every place belonging to Switzerland. One would be disappointed to get to a Swiss city and not see a lovely lake. So here again I admired Lake Geneva, which dif- fers from the other lakes, as it lies in the centre of the city, where one crosses over a fine bridge to get from one side of the street to the other. At the head of the 64 Diat^ of ^1^ CEutopean tlDnp^ 1900 town a queer sight shows itself; for the River Rhone commingles with the lake, and the two different colors of the water, and the movement of both, gave me a fancy as though the lake and the river were hav- ing a jolly little battle with each other. I cannot tell myself even anything new when I say that Geneva is famous for its numer- ous watch factories; for I well remember the joy I had when receiving my first watch and was told it was one of Geneva's famous watches, and, by the way, I am so many years young now that I have worn out sev- eral Swiss watches, and that means a lot of years young, for they do wear so long and well. One sees streets nearly all utilized for watch manufactories, also other jewelry is made here. Many lapidaries are employed here, as the cutting of precious stones is an important business here. Geneva is a very ancient city. We were shown the house where Calvin was born and here Cal- vinism had its birth. The great and world- renowned Red Cross Society also had its 65 2l>iar^ of ^^ Cl;uropran ®ript 1900 birth in Geneva, where first a small num- ber banded together for this noble work of helping one's fellow-men, and this banding together has broadened humanity, and Gen- eva, with all its other great things, has done wonders for humanitarianism. Now we must bid " Au revoir " to beautiful Switzer- land, and get well primed, for we are going, guess where? Well, to the city of cities, I think — to the great, the only Paris, for here all comparison with other cities must end. 66 VIII ARIS is not like the Holy City, far from it, for it is the worldly, naughty city, but it is Paris. The nucleus of the city seemed to me to be the grand-opera house, as from there all streets seem to go round and round. Napoleon III. did won- ders in beautifying Paris. The opera-house itself is a creation of loveliness. I had the delight of being shown through this mon- ster building by a Parisian gentleman, who took great pride in showing me all the wonderful architecture. A small lake is at one of the lower entrances, also a beautiful fountain. Its huge marble pillars, holding monster statuary; its galleries with onyx balustrades; the retiring balconies, and wonderful colonnade and foyer where hun- dreds of people promenade between acts ; all and everything is exclusive, and must be 67 2r>iar^ of ^^ European tCrtp^ 1900 seen, not when going to the opera, but only when going to see the opera-house. There is the Bois de Boulogne, where hundreds of carriages are constantly going and coming. Then we enjoyed the Exposition of 1900, besides the many marvels to be seen at all times; some very good, some fair, but many very, very bad. For the feminine world, how charming to see its great shops, and its Rue de la Paix, with all the glitter and show. That seems worth while alone to visit Paris for. The tomb of Napoleon is one of the many interesting sights to be- hold, near the Hotel des Invalides. Here is a great dome structure, all marble and gold, with great art windows. One enters by ascending broad stone steps into a mar- ble vestibule. Then a great sight meets the eye. In the centre of this dome build- ing is another rotunda, with vast bronze railings, then deep down, to be reached only by a flight of broad marble steps, lies the tomb of the erstwhile conqueror, the mon- arch Napoleon. Connected by a great 6S SDiar^ of ^^ European tETrip, 1900 garden is the famous old palace, the " Hotel des Invalides," in which wonderful paint- ings are harbored ; also great war relics and many famous souvenirs. Then one sees the fine palace, the Louvre, where the greatest French rulers, as well as the great disturbers of France, the great rebels, held their sway, and where so many outrages and death sentences were concocted. To- day, however, it is a jolly, a peace-lov- ing, beautiful Paris, where one loves to dwell and from which one sorrows to depart. No one omits while at Paris to visit the lovely and historical city of Versailles. We chose a lovely, balmy day, and one upon which we were assured the wonderful foun- tains would play. On our way thither we got a fine view of the picturesque town of St. Cloud (Sin Clew). The first beautiful attraction is the view one gets of the won- derful gardens and terraces and fine an- tique statues surrounding the marble ba- sins. Some of these are seen spouting 69 SDiar^ of ^^ European ^tip, 1900 water as high as seventy-five feet. Just be- yond the lovely park one sees the two fa- mous Trianons. These wonderful palaces were built by Louis XIV. The larger pal- ace was built as a retreat for Louis XIV. Although the larger Trianon has so many grand possessions and most wonderful an- tiquities, such as war relics, pictures, and statues, my interest seemed to lead me again to the little Trianon, the small palace, for here the beautiful Marie Antoinette was married to Louis XVI. She spent much of her time, and most of her joys and sorrows came to her, here. Here, in Octo- ber, 1789, she was nearly assassinated. I spent a goodly time looking at her bridal chamber, and I involuntarily caressed and passed my hands lovingly over her silken coverlets, and her numerous personal be- longings, and a pity came over me to think that so beautiful a woman and queen should have lived so greatly admired, and finally such a fate should overtake this famous woman and ruler — to be guillotined. Pre- 70 SDiar^ of ^^ CBuropean HTrip^ 1900 viously the famous Marie Theresa also in- habited the beautiful palace. Aside from the lovely gardens, park, and palaces, Versailles is not a place of much importance at this date. From Versailles back to Paris, our way leads to the biggest city in the world, the famous, great London. Life is too short to write up London, for its streets have no end, and its people are an ever-moving multitude. When one has travelled over a great part of the world and thinks one has seen nearly all, one stands still, awe- inspired, before the great, the wonderful Westminster Abbey, the silent home of so much past glory, so much past wisdom, and so much past misery. Here one comes face to face with it all, as well as with past treachery. While standing at the tomb of the Immortal Bard, the great Shakespeare, one realizes how the glory of the world passes away. How very haughty and royal lies the great Elizabeth upon her marble tomb, as well as her unfortunate kins- 71 2r>iar^ of ^^ (European ®ript 1900 woman, Marie, Queen of Scots. One sees hosts of the great men here hewn in mar- ble — Byron, Tennyson, Longfellow, of the modern centuries. Then walking upon the tombs of much past greatness, one's skin creeps. Then the way leads into the crypts of the ancient dead. Here a musty chill meets you. One feels ill at ease until getting back into the life and miserly bit of London sunshine. Sir Walter Scott's presence brings so many reminiscences, and the numerous Henrys and their respec- tive consorts make a sad impression. Eng- land has much indeed in its Westminster Abbey. Naturally, before leaving London, a visit must be made to that historical home of torture, London Tower. Here one needs strength and fortitude to climb the gruesome heights. The long, winding, worn stone steps take you into dismal chambers where implements of war as well as implements of torture are exhibited. The once famous Queen Elizabeth sits on her palfrey, in all her war accoutrements, 72 Wiwc^ of ^^ European ^rip^ 1900 as once she rode. The spears and thumb- screws, great and small things, all are still to be seen. The mysterious torture-cham- bers are still in evidence, and a feeling of relief comes when leaving this all behind and getting out into the London of to-day, where the good, old, kind-hearted Queen Victoria rules. London's greatness, in- cluding its Hyde Park, and all its numer- ous wonders, can no longer work a spell upon us, for the ship will soon weigh anchor, and we are thinking of our beloved America and our precious dear ones who are anxiously awaiting us. All the foregoing has been a nice diver- sion, and these notes will surely bring, in the days to come, a pleasant reminiscence. There may be other worlds, there surely are many other cities that we could not visit, but what has been seen has given great delight and inspired a wish to see more. Good-bye, old England ! The bells are ringing for the dear ones and Home, Sweet Home! 73 SDiar)? of ^^ CDuropcan Wtip^ 1900 On October sixteenth, nineteen hun- dred, the new century, our happiness was completed, for we returned to our floral- bedecked State of California, where our marvellous Golden Gate, with its placid Pacific, beckons a welcome to the entire Orient. In our beloved San Francisco our reunion was celebrated, and the ver- dict went forth that, after seeing so much, there is no lovelier nor better clime in existence. In God's own country one loves to dwell, Why seek for more where all proves well ? ■>K" ^- 74 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY BERKELEY Return to desk from which borrowed. This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. icmiiD^'y^r m 'i4i8n' 6W\ JAN 4 196- LD 21-100m-7,'52(A2528sl6)476