il D A T O U R C AROUND T|HE WORLD W o E GEORGE E. RAUM "2 L I B RARY OF Till: UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 01 FT OK liYi'SS/i'/tS NO. c*r , / has cut its way through the solid mountain of rock, five hundred feet deep, by means of what is called glacier mills; these are boulders moved and hurled around by rapid currents with such velo- city as in the course of time to cut immense basins in the rock. These excavations, besides formation of shell and fragments of rock showing impressions of vegetable petrifaction', illustrate the successive epochs of the globe, when the northern hemis- phere was buried under a mass of ice, with only an occasional oasis inhabited by animal life long since extinct. Another point radiating from Interlachen is A TOUR Lauterbrunnen, which means many fountains, and derives its name from the number of streams some twenty in all which fall from the high moun- tains into the depths of the valley below. The principal of these are the Falls of Staubach, drop- ping a distance of 1,100 feet in an unbroken line. The scene from below is surpassingly grand; per- pendicular rocks resembling giant castles with their glittering turrets and white-bannered walls ; towering above these the Jungfraii, the Monch, and the Eiger, some 13,000 feet high, losing their hoary heads in the eternal clouds. Bern, the capital of Switzerland, is on the river Aar, with a population of 36,000. The town is old and quaint, with narrow streets, min- iature and grotesque figures surmounting its fountains, and sidewalks under the projections of the second stories of the houses. Bern takes its name from baren the German for bear an animal which the aboriginal tribes formerly worshipped. The chief sight of this city is the bear pit, a gov- ernment institution, where a number of these animals are kept for the amusement of the public. Fribourg is noted for its fine Suspension bridge, and its Cathedral, over the entrance of which is an alto-relievo, in stone, of the Last Judgment; the devil is here represented weighing down the balance on the side of the righteous, in order that Justice may add a preponderance in the opposite scale. Within the sacred edifice is AROUND THE WORLD. 137 an organ noted for the purity and strength of its compass. Lake Geneva or Leman is the largest of the Swiss lakes, being 55 miles long and from 2 to 9 in width. Its waters are clear, and of a beautiful deep blue, its banks, bordered with the high mountain range of Savoy on one side, con- trasting strongly with the vine-covered slopes of the opposite shore. Midway up the lake is Lausanne, on an eleva- tion which commands a fine view. Further on is Vevay embosomed in vineyards ; and at the eastern extremity is Montreux, noted for its mild climate, and as the scene of Rousseau's " Nou- velle Heloise." Near by on a small island is the celebrated Castle of Chillon, which Byron's poem has immortalized. Here Bonnivard was confined for six years ; the chain which bound him to the stone pillar of his donjon, being still in its place. ** Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls ; A thousand feet in depth below Its massy waters meet and flow ; Below the surface of the lake The dark vault lies. " From Montreux we embarked by steamer for Geneva at the opposite extremity of this romantic lake. 138 A TOUR Geneva sits enthroned a queen on the shore of this beautiful sheet of water. The city is di- vided by the river Rhone which is spanned by some of the finest bridges in Europe. On a small island in the river is a bronze monument to Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who was a native of Geneva ; and there is also to be seen an elabo- rately designed monument to the Duke of Bruns- wick, who left his entire fortune to this city. Geneva is celebrated for its manufacture of watches, gold ornaments, and exquisite wood- carvings. Among the many places of interest one should not fail to visit are, the Cathedral in which Calvin preached for thirty years ; the villa of Lord Byron ; Ferney, the residence of Vol- taire ; and the chateau and grave of Madame de Stael. It was in this chateau she held her intel- lectual court where Shelley and Byron were wont to join the brilliant galaxy that surrounded her. AROUND THE WORLD. 139 CHAPTER XII. CHAMOUNI : MER DE GLACE : TETE NOIR : GORGE OF TRIENT : SIMPLON PASS : STRESSA : LAKE MAG- GIORE : LAKE LUGANO : BELLAGIO : LAKE COMO : COMO : ST. GOTHARD TUNNEL I BASLE. CHAMOUNI, a small village in Savoy, is at the foot of Mont Blanc, three thousand feet above the level of the sea. It was here, among her native mountains, that the familiar strains of her village airs lured poor Linda's wandering feet to peace and rest. In the village we found mules and guides, and climbing the mountains over a narrow, precipitous trail, reached Montanvert. Here we dismounted, and securing the services of an additional guide, proceeded on foot to cross the Mer-de-Glace or Sea of Ice. We had not gone far when a blinding snow-storm overtook us, which added to the perils of our undertaking ; underfoot a sea of ice, its surface broken by innumerable crevices, 300 feet in depth, yawning to engulf us at every step ; around us an impenetrable shroud of mist and snow; above, fathomless, illimitable space. For over two hours we groped our uncertain way I4O A TOUR across this trackless waste of frozen waters, and at last reached the opposite shore. Here we de- scended a series of steps called the Mauvais Pas, roughly hewn on the side of an almost perpen- dicular rock from whose eminence we could look down thousands of feet beneath us. At the Chapeau, a mountain station, we found our mules awaiting to convey us to the valley below. By private conveyance we passed through the romantic vale of Chamouni ; over the Tete Noire, a wild and rugged mountain pass ; and descending into the valley of the Rhone, arrived at the Gorge of Trient. This is a stupendous rent in the rock, six hundred feet in height, and extending a dis- tance of several miles ; at the base of the chasm flows a rapid torrent emanating from distant glaciers, which rushes madly on its way, boiling and seething, over boulders and jutting crags that intercept its course. Leaving Brieg by diligence, we crossed the Alps by the Simplon Pass over the military road made by Bonaparte for the passage of his troops. Arriving at the Fifth Refuge, one of the stations instituted as places of shelter for the wayfarer, we exchanged our carriage for a sleigh, as recent snow-storms had rendered the roads otherwise im- passable. For a distance of 20 miles we traversed vast plains of snow, and penetrated deep chasms cut through fallen avalanches, then resuming our AROUND THE WORLD. 141 former mode of conveyance, began the descent through the Gorge of Gondo awful in its sub- limity and emerging from rocky tunnels, amid scenes of wild and rugged grandeur, we were sud- denly transferred into the vine-clad slopes and balmy air of sunny Italy. Stressa, on Lake Maggiore, is situated just opposite the Borromean Islands, the property of Count Borromeo. On Isola Bella, the most beau- tiful of these little islands, is his palace : the bare rock having been metamorphosed into a scene of enchantment. This fairy creation is a series of ten terraces adorned with statues, obelisks, and vases, and here in sight of Alpine snows, tropical flowers bloom, and tea, indigo, citron, and mag- nolia thrive luxuriantly. Sailing through Lake Maggiore, and then tak- ing a carriage, we drove over a delightful road to Lugano, a small village nestling on the banks of the lake under the beetling shadow of Mt. St. Salvador. After a short sojourn here, we sailed through Lugano, the smallest and one of the prettiest of the Italian lakes, and continued our journey to Bellagio on the banks of Lake Como. Bellagio, on a small peninsula formed by the three arms of Lake Como, commands from its eminence views of unsurpassed beauty, but a more extended range is obtained from the villa Serbel- loni, on the heights above. Embowered in a rich luxuriance of tropical growth, this pretty little 142 A TOUR villa is almost concealed from view, but from its secluded elevation are obtained glimpses of the panorama of mountain and lake so vividly por- trayed by Claude Melnotte : " A deep vale shut in by Alpine hills from the rude world, near a clear lake margined by fruits of gold and whisper- ing myrtles." Lake Como, 30 miles long and 2^ wide, is set like a precious gem in the midst of ever-green hills ; along its shores are picturesque villas, and romantic ruins, standing out from a dark back- ground of foliage ; here the Villa d'Este, the fair casket that once enshrined Tasso's beautiful Leo- nora, and later the peaceful refuge of the unhappy Caroline of Brunswick ; there, the Villa Taglioni, the lovely home of the famous dans f use t and again the Villa Carlotta, filled with the master- pieces of Canova and Thorwaldsen. Como, at the southern extremity of the lake, has a population of 25,000, and is defended by double walls and environed by hills. The city has four gates, one of which leads to Milan and is a grand specimen of architectural beauty. In front of the Cathedral are statues of the elder and younger Pliny, the latter having been born here A. D. 62. Taking rail from Como to Basle the road passes through the finest of the Italian and Swiss scenery, skirts Lakes Como, Lugano, Lucerne, Zug, and Zurich, and enters the Alps through the AROUND THE WORLD. 143 St. Gothard Tunnel. This, the most wonderful piece of engineering in the world, penetrates the mountain like a cork-screw, making four complete loops within a distance of twenty miles in order to attain the requisite elevation, when it emerges into daylight only to enter again the main tunnel which is nine miles in length. On the opposite side the road winds around cliffs, through rocky gorges, and crosses chasms of fearful depth, pre- senting a scene of surpassing grandeur. CHAPTER XIIL FREIBURG : STRASBURG : BADEN BADEN I HEIDELBERG : FRANKFORT : MAYENCE : THE RHINE : COLOGNE : AIX- LA-CHAPELLE : METZ I RHEIMS : DIJON : MACON : LYONS. FROM Basle to Freiburg where in the latter city is a monument to Berthold Swartz, the monk who, it is claimed, in 1320, invented gunpowder, the rail follows the Rhine, and skirts the Black Forest so intimately associated with the legends of Germany. Strasburg, the principal city of the German provinces of Alsace and Loraine, has a population of 105,000 and is noted chiefly for its wonderful clock, and its manufacture of pates-de-foie-gras; 144 A TOUR this well-known delicacy is composed of geese- livers unnaturally enlarged by a process of ex- cessive feeding. A singular sight is that of the great storks standing beside, or building their nests on the chimneys of many housetops. It was in Strasburg that Guttenberg first used type, and gave to the world one of the most useful of inventions. The city, while in possession of the French, was bombarded by the Prussians, in August and Sep- tember, 1871, from Kehl, the batteries being placed out of sight of the French, and under the direction of an officer stationed on a high steeple, who communicated by telegraph to the distant trenches. The Cathedral which has a spire 470 feet in height, the highest in the world, contains the cele- brated astronomical clock made by Schwilgue in 1838-1842 to replace a similar one of great an- tiquity. At the hour of 12 the cock crows, the twelve apostles appear, and other puppets are set in motion. In the Church of St. Thomas is a fine monu- ment to Marshal Saxe, and in glass cases are the bodies of the Duke of Nassau and his daughter, preserved for 400 years. Baden-Baden, the famous German watering- place, is in a valley on the northern extremity of the Black Forest Along the banks of the river Oos are shaded avenues for public resort, leading to AROUND THE WORLD. 145 the Trinkhalle whose waters are sought by in- valids affected with gout and rheumatism, and to the Conversations Haus formerly the gambling hall, but now a place of rendezvous, where people meet to chat and drink beer, while listening to strains of music discoursed by a fine band outside. A most delightful excursion from Baden- Baden is, by carriage, to the Merkur Tower, situ- ated on the mountain top in the midst of the Black Forest, from which is obtained an extended view of the forest and adjacent mountains. En route one passes the New Castle founded 1,100 years ago, at present the summer residence of the Grand Duke, the picturesque ruins of an old Roman castle, and further on the fantastic Felsen, or rocks, . in form somewhat resembling pulpits, where legend avers an angel once discoursed from one of them, the devil from the other ; which of the two succeeded in obtaining the greater num- ber of disciples, tradition revealeth not. Heidelberg, so celebrated for its Castle and University, is situated on the Neckar, and has a population of 25,000. The Castle is on an eleva- tion commanding a fine view of town and river ; it is partly a ruin, half palace and half fortress, and is surrounded by charming grounds. In its cellar is shown the great Heidelberg Tun, with a capacity equivalent to the measure of 283,000 bottles of wine : in order to realize the size of this monster cask, one must climb to its top, by means of a 146 A TOUR ladder, and standing upon its broad surface look downward to the stone floor beneath. In the same room is a wooden effigy of the court fool Porkes, who never went to bed sober, his mod- erate allowance being 18 bottles per diem. The Church of the Holy Ghost is an old and quaint structure, and is divided by a partition through the middle, which separates the Protest- ant from the Catholic services, held under the same roof. On the opposite side of the river from Heidel- berg is a building where, once a week, the stu- dents repair to settle their quarrels by means of duels fought with swords. These duels are as much an institution of the University as is the scholastic course, and "honorable scars " thus ob- tained are the object of the students' fondest am- bition. In order that these wounds may be worn In open view upon the face, the body is protected by padding, while the eyes are shielded by iron goggles ; a surgeon is, of course, in attendance, whose duty it is to prevent the combat from re- sulting seriously. Frankfort-on-the-Maine, with a population of 138,000, was formerly a free city of Germany, but was annexed to the Kingdom of Prussia, October 8th, 1866. It is a very ancient city, having in 794 been the residence of Charlemagne. At present it is chiefly noted for its large banking houses, and the great wealth of its citizens ; it is AROUND THE WORLD. 147 the native place of the original Rothschild-, the house in Jew street still standing where the fa- mous banker was born. The present Baron Rothschild is the king of bankers, and the banker of kings. The principal public monuments are those of Guttenberg, Schiller, and Goethe, the latter being born here August 28th, 1749. In a private villa is a statue of faultless marble, by Danneker, representing Ariadne seated on a tiger one of the most perfect productions of modern art. The Rhine ranks first among European rivers in variety and beauty of scenery, and in the his- torical associations and traditional reminiscences which haunt its shores. From Mayence to Co- logne it winds with rapid current among high hills crowned with ruined castles, the river's sloping banks covered with luxuriant vineyards. On the right bank is the Castle of Johannisberg sur- rounded by the vines which produce the most celebrated of the Rhine wines distinguished for their delicate bouquet. Beyond, are the vine- yards of Steinberg and Rudesheim, from the former of which is obtained wine noted for its body, warmth, and peculiar aroma, while from the latter, planted as far back as the reign of Charlemagne, is produced a wine which, although less expensive, is almost equal in quality to the Steinberg. Bingen on the Rhine is best known from the 148 A TOUR beautiful poem bearing that title : opposite is the ruin of Bishop Hatto's Castle of Ehrenfels, and on an island in the river is the Mouse Tower where the wicked Bishop sought refuge when pursued by the rats. Besides these points of in- terest are, the Castle of Rheinstein, where is buried Prince Frederick of Prussia; Pfalz, where Louis le Debonnaire retired, weary of the cares of empire, to end his days on a barren rock in the river; the Lorelei Rock where the syren sat and sang, and combed her golden locks, luring the en- tranced boatmen to destruction ; the Castle and Fortress of Reinfels, an imposing ruin ; the Castle of the Two Brothers whose unnatural love for their beautiful sister culminated in a fatal combat ; the Castle Stolzenfels, the property of the King of Prussia ; the Fort of Ehrenbreitstein, opposite Coblentz, so strongly fortified that it is styled the Gibraltar of Germany ; Brohl, a small village, celebrated for its tufa stone used by the Romans for coffins on account of its property of absorp- tion, and from which is derived the name of sarcophagus or flesh consumer; the Castle of Rolandseck, built by Roland, a nephew of Charle- magne, that he might overlook the convent to which his bride had retired from the world ; and Drachenfels, commandingly situated on the high- est hill-top, once the fortress and watch-tower of the robbers of the Rhine. Cologne, the capital of the province, and the AROUND THE WORLD. 149 third city of importance in the empire, has a pop- ulation of 145,000. It is as celebrated for its filthy streets and bad odors, as for the superior article of cologne-water manufactured here by the Farina firm. In its public squares are bronze statues of Frederick William III., Frederick Wil- liam IV., and the present Emperor William. The Cathedral, a magnificent specimen of Gothic architecture, was commenced in 1248 and only completed in 1880. Behind the high altar is the Chapel of the Magi, or three kings, who came from the East to worship, and bring offer- ings to the Infant Christ; the remains of these three wise men Caspar, Melchior, and Bal- thasar, are, here inclosed in a casket of solid gold, studded with precious stones, (valued at $2,OOO,- ooo), their skulls, which are exposed to view, bearing crowns of diamonds. In the church treasury are three links of the chain with which St. Peter was bound, and a bone of St. Matthew, and in the aisle is a plain slab covering the heart of Marie de Medici. In St. Peter's church is the font where Ru- bens, a native of Cologne, was baptized ; and here also is his celebrated painting of St. Peter's cruci- fixion, head downwards considered by himself his chef d 'ceuvre. The Church of St. Ursula enshrines the bones of that saint, with those of her 11,000 virgins, who were murdered on this spot by the Huns in I5O A TOUR 450 A. D. on account of their refusal to break their vows of chastity; the warlls of the church are covered with their ghastly relics, arranged in hideous display. Another of its treasures is one of the six porphyry jars, which it is claimed, was the means used by the Saviour in the per- formance of His first miracle of changing water into wine, at the marriage feast of Cana. Aix-la-Chapelle is celebrated as having for- merly been the city where the earlier sovereigns of France and Germany were crowned ; it is noted for its highly medicinal waters and received its name from the chapel erected by Charlemagne for his place of sepulture. The present Cathedral which adjoins the chapel, is one of the oldest in Europe, and is un- surpassed in the value of the relics it contains, which were presented to Charlemagne by the Grand Patriarch of Jerusalem. These consist of the white gown of the Virgin; the swathing clothes of the Infant Christ; a cloth on which lay the body of John the Baptist ; the leathern girdle of Jesus ; part of the rope with which He was bound ; one of the nails that fastened Him to the Cross; a fragment of the reed with which they mocked Him; bones of the twelve apostles; and the pulpit from which St. Bernard preached the second cru- sade. Here, encased in a golden coffin, are the remains of Charlemagne ; and also the marble coronation chair in which he was found, sitting AROUND THE WORLD. 151 erect, with the crown, sceptre, and orb of his im- perial state, when his tomb was opened by Otho III., in 997. This same chair, crown, orb, and sceptre, were used at the coronation of successive emperors of Germany, for centuries afterward. The Rath-haus stands on the site of the palace where Charlemagne was born, 742 ; and contains an ancient hall beautifully frescoed with scenes from the emperor's life, and another, called the Great Hall, used for the coronation ceremonies of emperors, for the assemblage of the Diets, and for other important celebrations. In this hall is a magnificent stained-glass window representing a life-size portrait of the present Em- peror, William I. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Metz the rail fol- lows, part of the way, the Moselle river, whose scenery much resembles that of the Rhine ; and from this district is produced the famous Moselle wine. Metz, on the Moselle river, with a population of 54,000 is one of the most strongly fortified towns in Europe. Four miles distant the battles of Vionville and Gravelotte were fought August 1 6th and i8th, 1870. Metz has always borne the name of the Virgin Fortress, and can easily be defended against six times the number of its gar- rison ; but on the 27th of October, 1870, the whole French army under Marshal Bazaine, cap- itulated ; and 3 marshals, 66 generals, 6,000 of* I$2 A TOUR ficers, and 173,000 troops surrendered themselves prisoners of war to the Germans. From Metz to Rheims we traversed the great Champagne district, stopping at Epernay, where are the extensive cellars of Moet and Chandon. The ancient city of Rheims is noted not only for its world-renowned wines of Champagne, but for its having been the city where have been crowned nearly all the kings of France since Philip Augustus. It was here that the virgin hand of Joan of Arc caused the crown of reunited France to be placed on the head of Charles VII. In Rheims are the celebrated champagne vaults of T. Roederer & Co. These excavations, which extend half a mile underground to the depth of 1 20 feet, are cut out of the solid rock; and \vere once stone quarries which yielded a white, chalk-like substance hardening on being exposed to the air. Traversing the Burgundy district, we stopped at Dijon and Macon, the exporting centre of the Burgundy wines. The strength and flavor of these wines is partly owing to the soil on which the grape is grown a reddish strata of earth overlaying a white chalky rock. The wine is both red and white in color, of a heavy body, and far superior to the ordinary claret wines ; but very little of the finer qualities are exported, the French preferring to retain this their favorite bev- AROUND THE WORLD. 153 erage in their own country even at the high rates demanded for it. Lyons at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, has a population of 343,000. It is the second city in France in point of size and popula- tion, and is the centre of extensive manufactures. It is of great antiquity, having been the capital of Celtic Gaul, and in modern times had its share in the great revolution, and was the chief scene of the Jacobite excesses. It was here that Bulwer laid the first scenes of his popular play The Lady of Lyons. Lyons is the great manufacturing mart for silks and velvets, and although it has 30,000 weavers of these fabrics, there are no large fac- tories, the work being done by small establish- ments, in each of which, only from eight to twelve men are employed. Jacquard, the inventor of the loom, was born here. A fine view of the city and suburban land- scape is to be obtained from the tower of the Church of Notre Dame on the heights of Four- vieres. On this height is the Hospice de 1'An- tiqueille built on the site of the palace in which the Roman emperors Claudius, Germanicus, and Caligula were born ; and in the Museum is a bronze tablet on which is carved a speech which Claudius delivered before the Roman Senate, A. D. 48. Near here is the Church of St. Iranee, erected on the spot where Septimus Severus, in 154 A TOUR the year 202 caused the massacre of 20,000 Christians who had assembled for prayer. In the Hotel de Ville, the Revolutionary tri- bunal consisting of Couthon, Fondee, and Collot d'Herbois sat in council, after the siege of Lyons. The latter of these who was their leader, had, when an actor, been hissed from the stage, and mad- dened at the insult swore to be revenged. When the opportunity presented itself, he wreaked a ter- rible vengeance for his fancied wrongs ; the citi- zens were killed at the rate of 100 a day ; the knife of the guillotine working too slowly for the satisfying of his cruel impatience, fifty human beings at a time, were tied together and shot as they stood, with grape and canister. After 2,000 had been butchered in this manner, the city was razed to the ground. From Lyons we now turned our faces towards Paris ; where after a brief sojourn we started forth again on our travels, with Spain as our point of destination. AROUND THE WORLD. 155 CHAPTER XIV. ORLEANS: BLOIS: TOURS: POITIERS: BORDEAUX: BAY- ONNE: BIARRITZ: BURGOS: VALLADOLID: MADRID: ESCURIAL : CORDOVA : SEVILLE : GRANADA : MAL- AGA : GIBRALTAR. ORLEANS one of the most ancient cities of France, has a population of 52,000. In 1429 this city was besieged by the English for six months ; but in the following year Joan of Arc, in full armor, bearing a sacred banner, entered the city at the head of a very small force, bringing sup- plies to the besieged. In opposition to the judg- ment of the French commanders, she crossed the Loire in boats, accompanied only by a chosen number of men, and attacked the Bastile des Tour- nelles. Although pierced by an arrow, she waved her banner, scaled the walls and carried the fort. Hence her name of Maid of Orleans. The city has a fine Cathedral, and an eques- trian statue of Joan of Arc. Blois on the river Loire, was the native city of Louis XII., Peter the Divine, and Papin, in- ventor of the steam engine. The old castle over- looking the river, was once the palace of Francis L, and of Charles IX. In it is a room where 156 A TOUR Catherine de Medici consulted the stars and con- cocted her most diabolical plots ; foremost among these was the cold-blooded murder of the Duke of Guise ; when, at her instigation, her son Henry III. placed daggers in the hands of his at- tendants to stab him as he entered the chamber. Napoleon I. dated his last imperial decree at Blois to which place he had previously dispatched the empress with the young king of Rome and the remnant of his court. Tours, the principal city of Touraine, has a population of 48,000. It was near here, in 732, that the battle took place between the Christians under Charles Martel and the Mohammedans under Abder Rahman, which resulted in the death-blow to the Koran in the West. Poitiers is chiefly noted as having given the name to the famous battle fought near by, be- tween King John and the Black Prince, which resulted in the defeat and captivity of the former. Bordeaux the second sea-port town of France, is on the Garonne, 60 miles from its mouth, and has a population of 216,000. It has a quay 3 miles long, surpassed by few in Europe. The city is particularly celebrated for its extensive trade in claret wine, of which it exports large quantities to foreign ports. Among its most re- markable edifices are the ruins of an old Roman palace ; a fine theatre built by Louis XIV.; and St. Michael's Church; in a cave of the tower, are AROUND THE WORLD. 157 a large number of wonderfully life-like bodies standing upright against the walls ; their preser- vation being attributed to the nature of the soil in which they had been buried 400 years before. Bayonne is situated at the junction of the Nive and Adour rivers, on the high-road to Spain ; and is one of the most strongly fortified towns of France. Its citadel is considered the best work of Vauban the engineer. From Bayonne the bayonet derives its name ; it was invented in the i/th century, originating from the incident of a regiment short of ammunition, defending itself against the Spaniards by means of long knives which they stuck in the barrels of their muskets. Biarritz on the Bay of Biscay, 8 miles from Bayonne, is a fashionable watering-place, and was a favorite resort of the Emperor Napoleon III.; its mild climate rendering a sojourn here attrac- tive during the fall and winter months. The shore is rugged and wild, with cliffs from thirty to forty feet in height. After crossing the Spanish frontier at Irun, where a most thorough search is made by the custom-house officials, the first city of importance reached is Burgos, the former capital of the king- dom of Castile. It is situated 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, and contains 30,000 inhabi- tants. The streets are narrow and dirty, and the houses high and inclosed in glass verandas. At intervals of 1 5 minutes throughout the night, the 158 A TOUR voice of the watchman may be heard in loud tones announcing the hour and the state of the weather. The ladies still adhere to the picturesque lace mantilla, and the graceful fan ; while the men in- variably envelope themselves in the voluminous folds of their mantles. Before being admitted into a house, the stranger is first jealously scanned through a grating in the outer door ; a custom having its origin in a time of general insecurity. The small donkey, the only beast of burden seen on the streets, is often so heavily laden as to be scarcely observable under his bulky load. Burgos is celebrated as the birthplace and tomb of the Cid, a Moorish name meaning uncon- querable. This celebrated Spanish hero was a great warrior, whose deeds have been recorded in prose and verse by writers of all countries and periods for the last eight centuries. Even after his death he is said to have won a great victory ; his followers having secured his corpse to his fa- vorite horse, conducted him to the battle-field, where the foe, having heard of the death of the great leader, were appalled at sight of the ghastly apparition, and, conquered by their own super- stitious terrors, fled ignominiously from the field. Valladolid . the ancient capital of Spain, is at the confluence of the Pisuerga and Esgueva rivers, and has a population of 52,000. It was here that Christopher Columbus, who gave a continent to the world died, May 2Oth, 1506 in a small AROUND THE WORLD. 159 dimly-lighted room, in a narrow street of the poorer quarter of the town. Valladolid was the birthplace of Philip II. and in the Cathedral one of the finest in Spain were married, in 1469, Ferdinand and Isabella. Madrid, the capital of Spain, is in the centre of the kingdom, in a barren, rocky plain 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. Owing to its situation, the city is exposed to cold winds and the climate is particularly unhealthy. Madrid has 400,000 inhabitants and though of very an- cient origin, has, owing to its handsome buildings and wide streets, a modern appearance. . The most conspicuous public ornaments are, the statues of Spain's gifted sons, Murillo the artist, and Cervantes the author of Don Quixote ; and of Philip IV. on horseback surrounded by the early kings ; besides the fountains of Neptune and Sibyl. The Park, of an afternoon is thronged with the elite driving out in their elegant equi- pages, among them that of the Royal family, in which is the little Infanta accompanied by her at- tendants. The Royal Palace is an immense structure built of granite, and covering, with its surround- ings, 80 acres of ground. Favored with invita- tions from the Palace we attended the Christening of the Royal Infant of Spain. The ceremony was performed in the Royal Chapel by a Car- dinal, assisted by the highest dignitaries of the 160 A TOUR Church ; and was attended by members of the Royal household and cabinet, generals of the army, and foreign ambassadors in full uniform, wearing their numerous decorations. In the Royal Picture Gallery are several hun- dred paintings, among them those of Velasquez, master of the Spanish school, whose best work is the portrait of ^Esop ; here also are many of Mu- rillo's original works the Conception, and the Infant St. John being among the finest. Of the productions of modern Spanish artists are, the Bell of Huesca, the Death of Lucrezia Borgia, Defending the Pass, and the Death of Seneca. In the Naval Museum are the compass of Co- lumbus and the original chart with which he demonstrated his discovery of a new continent. The armory contains the swords and coats of mail of Columbus, Ferdinand, and Cortez, besides those of Boabdil and other Moorish kings. The Amphitheatre where bull-fights take place is built of stone and brick, with a capacity for seat- ing 16,500 people; this barbarous entertainment being held Sunday afternoons from the hours of 2 to 5. The bull-fight which we witnessed was an especially grand affair given in celebration of the birth of the Royal child. At the hour specified, the streets were thronged, and the vast building crowded to its utmost. The entertainment was inaugurated by a grand procession entering the arena, composed of all who were to take part, AROUND THE WORLD. l6l dressed in gay and fantastic costumes, glittering with gold and silver. After saluting the king and audience, two heralds advanced from among them and received from the governor the large iron key with which they proceeded to open the gates separating the arena from the inclosure in which the restive animals were confined. One at a time the bulls were admitted. The animal entered the circle, evidently bewildered at the novelty of his situation, and evincing no sign of his natural belli- cose propensity. Then came the matadores who, flourishing their blood-red mantles in his face, and launching their bandarillos or barbed arrows into his sides, soon succeeded into goading him into mad fury. With a low roar like the sound of distant thunder, the bull rushed upon his assail- ants, who, to escape his attack, performed mar- vellous feats of agility, now dodging from beneath his very horns, and again casting themselves on the ground in his path, that unable to make so sudden a halt in his mad career the animal should pass him by ; and more wonderful than all quickly planting a spear in the ground, by its aid vaulting clear over the beast to the opposite side. Next the Picadors, or mounted men, entered upon the scene, bearing long spears, their sole mode of defence against the furious onslaught of the now thoroughly aroused and pain-maddened bull. Then the hideous interest of the spectacle became intensified. The wretched horses, with 162 A TOUR one eye bandaged in order that they might not be fully conscious of their peril, vainly essayed to elude the repeated attacks of the bull, flying wildly around the ring, their entrails protruding from their bleeding wounds and trailing in the dust as they ran. By this time the bull, having overcome his assailants, and being thoroughly ex- hausted from loss of blood, stood at bay with re- laxing muscles but undaunted eye, as a matador entered the arena for the final scene of the bar- barous sport the Blow of Mercy. He ap- proached on foot, and armed only with a sharp dagger, confronted the bull, and as the animal lowered his head for a last attack, the daring mat- ador plunged the blade into his neck adroitly and instantaneously severing the main artery. On this occasion, these fearful scenes were re- peated until no less than six bulls and seven horses had been killed and several men wounded. The present king and queen, although much averse to bull-fights, are compelled to sanction and even yield to the requirements of custom and prejudice, and attend these national exhibitions. The Escurial, 40 miles from Madrid, is an im- mense granite building comprising palace, tomb, and convent. It is one of the wonders of Spain, and was built by Philip II. as a royal vault for kings and mothers of kings. Over the entrance are large statues of David, Solomon, Jehosha- phat, Hezekiah, Manasseh, and Josiah. The palace AROUND THE WORLD. 163 apartments are hung with the finest of modern Spanish tapestry, the chapel contains pulpits of the most exquisite Mexican onyx, and over the altar is the largest round topaz in the world. The vault beneath, whose steps and walls are of por- phyry and polished stones, is of a circular form, the granite coffins arranged on shelves in chrono- logical order bearing the names of the occupants engraved in gilt letters, several vacant places awaiting the living. Outside this receptacle for dead royalty, but still within the church, lies all that remains of the young and lovely Mercedes, first wife of Alfonso, who having been denied the motherhood of a son, is debarred the honors of sepulture within the precincts of the royal circle. Cordova, with a population of 50,000, was once the principal city, and capital of the Moors, and contained at one time 1,000,000 inhabitants, and 300 mosques. It was the birthplace of the two Senecas, and of Lucan the poet. The Cathedral, formerly a mosque, still retains its Moorish style of architecture, and is exceed- ingly beautiful and picturesque. It has 850 pil- lars of jasper, porphyry, and every variety of marble ; the arches and ceilings are of the most exquisite mosaic, and everywhere are fine carv- ings inscribed with quotations from the Koran. In the south end of the edifice is the Zancarron, or Moorish sanctuary of octagon shape, highly 1 64 A TOUR ornamented, and canopied with a scallop shell cut from a solid block of marble 1 5 feet in breadth. In Cordova is manufactured a preserve made from the orange-blossom some 200 blossoms being required to the pound, which is delicate in flavor, and grateful to the taste. The great in- dustry of the place is the pickling of olives ; the process being to soak the fruit in a brine impreg- nated with anise-seed and bay leaves. Seville, on the Guadalquivir, is claimed to have been founded by Hercules, captured by Caesar, and subsequently in 711, by the Moors. It was at one time the centre of science and art, but declined rapidly after having been conquered by the Christians. Seville was the birthplace of the Emperors Trajan and Theodosius ; also of Magellan the famous navigator, Las Casas the defender of the Indians, and Lope de Vega the father of Spanish comedy. It was here in 1480 the Inquisition was established; the Square still existing, where the grand tribunal met, passed judgment, and dispatched their victims. The streets are crooked, and some of them barely six feet in width ; the Plazas are bordered with palm and date-trees, and the surrounding country is luxuriant with growth of olive and orange, cac- tus and aloe. The Alcazar or Palace, of Moslem architec- ture, was the residence of the Moorish and Catho- lic kings of Spain. On one side of the court once AROUND THE WORLD. 165 stood the throne before which were yearly brought one hundred of the most beautiful virgins of Seville, from among whom the Moorish monarch might select his wives. Opening from the op- posite side is the Hall of Ambassadors, where Don Pedro not only killed his own brother, but also the former King of Granada, Abu Said, to whom he had promised protection, and whom, after feasting and flattering, he assassinated and robbed of his jewels; among the latter was the heart-shaped ruby which he afterwards presented to the Black Prince, and is now conspicuous in the crown of England. On the floor above is the private chapel where Ferdinand and Isabella gave audi- ence to Christopher Columbus. Adjoining the beautiful gardens of the Palace are immense baths, where Maria de Padilla and her attendants dis- ported in the presence of the king. In the Cathedral are many of Murillo's finest works ; and a slab on the floor marks the spot where is buried Ferdinand son of Columbus, the body of the great discoverer having been re- moved to Havana. Adjoining the church is a library containing the log-book of Columbus, with charts indicating his route and the distance trav- elled each day ; also a history of the world with his marginal notes and corrections. In the Bourse, or Exchange, are the archives of Spanish South America, with the correspond- ence of Cortez and Pizarro. 1 66 A TOUR Among other places are, the studio, and house where Murillo died ; that called the House of Pontius Pilate, a fac-simile of the one in Jeru- salem; and the home of Figaro, the barber of Sev- ille, the scene and subject of one of the prettiest of modern operas. At the Escuela de Bailes, or Dance-hall, we witnessed the Spanish Fandango danced in all its originality and boldness. Granada is in a beautiful plain on the banks of the Darro near the snow-capped range of the Sierra Nevada. Its present population is 76,000, not one-tenth of what it was when taken from the Moors by Ferdinand and Isabella. The Alhambra, or acropolis of Granada, is on the top of a high hill overlooking the city. It was built 600 years ago by the Moors ; is sur- rounded by walls and towers, and was at one time capable of accommodating 40,000 soldiers. This palace was to them a terrestrial paradise, and it was here they made their last stand for empire in Spain. Though somewhat faded and damaged by the ravages of time and war, it still retains much of its former grandeur; and resembles more an abode fitted for fabled queens of Love and Beauty, than a human habitation. Its ceil- ings are of honey-combed stalactite, of blue, red, and gold, and inlaid with mother-of-pearl; the walls of stucco resemble fine lace-work of various intricate designs inscribed with quotations from AROUND THE WORLD. l6/ the Koran ; and the floors and columns are of ala- baster and marble. The most beautiful and in- teresting apartments of the palace are, the Hall of Ambassadors where Ferdinand and Isabella re- ceived Columbus, prior to his departure for the great voyage of discovery; beneath it, the dun- geon, and the balcony from which Boabdil when a child was lowered in a basket, by his mother, and sent beyond reach of his cruel father ; the Repose Room where the Sultan rested with his Sultana after the bath, listening to strains of music from the balconies above ; the Toilet-room, in one corner of which is a perforated marble slab in the floor, over whose ascending perfumes the Sultana stood while her attendants ministered to her toilet; the Hall of Two Sisters, whence the royal couple is- sued their orders ; the Hall of Justice where the nobles received sentence ; the Court of Lions, so called from its fountain supported by twelve huge lions, surrounded by 136 marble pillars; and the Hall of Abencerrages where Boabdil killed thirty-six of the tribe of that name ; the marble fountain flowing with their blood. This massacre was caused by a report made by some of the rival tribe Zegri, to Boabdil, that his beau- tiful queen was seen in the garden in the embrace of the chief of the Abencerrages. The queen, dreading the king's vengeful wrath appealed for protection to four Christian knights, who came, disguised as Moors, vanquished the Zegri in a I 68 A TOUR hand-to-hand fight, and compelled them to con- fess their villainous plot in the presence of the king and assembled people. In the Tower of Comares is the room in which Washington Irving wrote his fine description of the Alhambra. The Generalife, on an adjacent hill was the summer palace of the Moorish kings, and in it are portraits of Moslem and Christian sovereigns. In the terraced gardens of this palace are sparkling fountains, and perpetual bloom of oleander, pome- granate, lime and orange. From an elevated rock called the Seat of the Moor, can be seen the bridge where Columbus was overtaken by the king's messenger, while he was on his way, disappointed and dejected, to submit his disdained projects to the Court of France. Near by is the point called the Last Sigh of the Moor, whence Boabdil looked back and wept at the city he had lost, and was re- proved by his mother's sarcasm : " you do well to weep as a woman over what you could not defend as a man." The chief object of interest in the town itself is the Cathedral whose highly ornamented interior contains the magnificent marble tombs of Ferdi- nand and Isabella, and those of their daughter, Jane the Demented, and her husband Philip I. In the Treasury is the sword of Ferdinand, and the flag he carried at the siege of Granada : also Isabella's crown and sceptre, and the golden AROUND THE WORLD. 169 casket which once contained the jewels she caused to be sold to enable Columbus to sail on his voy- age of discovery. The Convent of Cartouja, two miles from Granada was once the abode of an order of monks who were allowed to speak only once a week ; and if by chance they met one another they crossed themselves piously, with the adjuration : "brother we must die!" This order has been suppressed ; but the edifice still exists in good condition. The Chapel walls are of a variety of exquisite marbles brought from the Snow moun- tains, the doors and cabinets are of ebony, ivory, and tortoise shell ; and set in the altar are two immense agates three feet each, in circumference. Malaga, a seaport town of Andalusia, founded by the Carthagenians, and successively under the rule of the Romans, Goths, and Moors, is situated on a mountain-girded bay ; and above the town towers the ruin of an old Roman castle. Malaga is celebrated for its grapes, figs, oranges, lemons, raisins, wine, and olive oil, which are exported in large quantities to the United States. The man- ufacture of olive oil is most primitive in its process ; the fruit is picked in December, when very ripe, and crushed between two large stones turned by a cow or mule ; it is next placed in straw baskets and the oil forced out by heavy pressure, after which it is poured into large jars to settle and refine. 170 A TOUR Gibraltar, an English possession on a penin- sula in the extreme south of Spain, contains a population of 25,000, of whom 6,000 belong to the army. The Rock so celebrated as the strongest fort- ress in the world, rises above the town 1,400 feet and extends to the end of the peninsula, a dis- tance of four miles. Heavily mounted with guns on solid fortifications, its strongest side is that facing Spain. Within the solid rock have been cut to a great height, roads and galleries; while nothing is visible from the exterior but the port- holes through which the muzzles of the guns protrude. On the top is the signal station from which is a fine view of sea and land. On the side of the hill, midway between the fort and the town, is St. Michael's stalactite cave ; and near by, numerous monkeys infest the crevices of the rock, and leap, with chatter and grimace from cliff to cliff. The Rock, which overlooks the bay, is a thorn in the side of Spain, and serves England as a coaling station for its India-bound steamers; it by no means commands the strait, however, as at this point it is 13 miles wide, and the guns could not carry half that distance. Ten miles from Gibraltar, are the extensive Cork forests of Spain, where the bark is annually gathered and shipped in large quantities to all parts of the world. AROUND THE WORLD. From Gibraltar we crossed the strait and after an exceedingly rough passage reached the north- ern shores of Africa. CHAPTER XV. TANGIERS : ORAN : BLIDAH : ALGIERS : MARSEILLES ! CHATEAU D'lF : TOULON : NICE : MONACO. TANGIERS, a seaport town of Morocco, has a population of 10,000. It presents from the sea a beautiful aspect, its white houses rising in ter- races, one above another ; but a closer proximity shows the city in a disgustingly filthy condition ; its narrow streets swarming with beggars, ragged, crippled and diseased. The women are enveloped in a voluminous, shapeless, white garment, their faces, with the ex- ception of one eye, completely concealed from view. The men, who are very dark of com- plexion, wear loose white burnooses, between the opening folds of which is occasionally seen the gleam of their silver mounted daggers ; their bare legs terminating in yellow leather slippers, and their heads incased in a red fez, over which is wound the many folds of the conventional white turban. A TOUR The bazaar shops are generally about ten feet square; here the Moor sits cross-legged, sur- rounded by his wares, and transacts business from the door; the chief article of commodity being that fine grade of leather which takes its name from the country. The city contains three mosques, before enter- ing any one of which the Moor must first wash his feet in a stone trough at the threshold. From the top of each minaret, at sunrise, noon, and sunset, a flag is raised, and the faithful called by voice to prayer. The Prison is simply a dungeon with a dirt floor, light and communication being obtained only through an aperture in the door. The prisoners are not only chained and beaten unmer- cifully, but are left by the government to starve, unless food or money is furnished them by private charities. The Market-place is an open space outside of the city walls which on market days is a scene of great activity and bustle ; hundreds of camels and donkeys loaded with dates and other articles of merchandise from the interior, are grouped around ; the camels kneeling while their owners relieve them of their burthens, and spread their wares on the ground before them. In the midst of this motley throng, wild, half-naked men from the Atlas mountains religious fanatics dance their uncouth measures, writhing, and foaming at AROUND THE WORLD. 173 the mouth, while they strike their closely-shaved heads with sharp instruments, cutting, bruising, and mangling them to a mass of bleeding, quiver- ing flesh, apparently unconscious of the self-in- flicted pain. Here the snake-charmers ply their singular avocation, displaying their perfect con- trol over the movements of the huge reptiles to the sound of their peculiar instruments. A portion of the market-place is devoted to- the sale of slaves; the auctioneer standing in the midst of the wretched creatures, cries in a loud voice for the highest bidder ; after the auction, those re- maining unsold are driven through the streets to be sold for whatever price they may bring. A man who wields a wonderful degree of power in Morocco without being absolutely in of- ficial authority, is the Prince Hadj Abdes Salem, or the " Saint," as he is called, a direct descendant of Mohammed, who is not only worshipped by the people, but to whom even the Emperor of Mor- occo must kneel for permission before assuming office. In person he is a man of apparently 45 years of age, weighing some 250 Ibs., and so dark of complexion as to be almost black ; in dress he is plain, distinguished from other Moors only by the green fez which indicates a descendant of Mo- hammed. The Saint has a decided partiality for the English and Americans, perhaps induced by the influence of his American wife, who visit- ing the country as governess to an English 174 A TOUR family, charmed the Moslem by her beauty and grace, and consented to accept the dubious honor of being his favorite wife. In the suburbs she dwells in her own private residence, while in the town is the prince's harem, consisting of several hundred women, which is jealously guarded by a large number from among his many thousand slaves. A cordial invitation was extended us by the prince to attend a nine days' boar hunt, escorted by his suite and attendants numbering some 2,000 men ; the slaves attending the hunt in the capacity of beaters. Only the ladies of our party were admitted into the harems. One of these is worthy of de- scription. The entrance was through a court- yard whose gates were guarded by black eunuchs. The reception-room was a fair example of the oriental style j the walls were hung in draperies of silk and gold tissues ; the floor covered with costly Persian rugs ; while scattered around were cushions and divans of rare stuffs and inviting shape, suggestive of ease and repose ; and over all the reflection of the vast mirrors lent additional brilliancy to the scene. Here reclining in various graceful attitudes, were the beauties of the harem; fair Georgians, lovely Circassians and dark-eyed Persians, gorgeously apparelled, and decked in resplendent jewels. Refreshments tea, sherbets, and comfits were served in delicate porcelain, AROUND THE WORLD. 1/5 by kneeling slaves, incense burned and highly- aromatic perfumes proffered. At Tangiers we took steamer coasting along the African shore ; and after touching at various ports of minor importance in Morocco, we landed at Oran in Algeria. Oran, the capital of the province of the same name, contains some 50,000 inhabitants, and is almost surrounded by high hills on the summits of which are strong fortifications whence mag- nificent views are obtained of the harbor and ad- jacent country. The rail from Oran to Algiers, 260 miles, tra- verses a fertile and productive valley 20 miles in width, and one is surprised at the richness of the soil, and the luxuriant growth of vegetation ; here, in the month of December, the climate resembles that of spring ; and the large vineyards, recently planted, promise great future revenues to France. Blidah lies at the foot of the Atlas mountains, its streets gradually sloping for miles into the Metidja plain. Although located in the fairest portion of Algeria, with a mild and balmy cli- mate, and tropical growth of vegetation, snow covers the mountain peaks which overlook the city. In the Tivoli Gardens, where the band of African Chasseurs discourses fine music, throngs of the military and citizens resort in the cool of the evening to saunter among the groves of date, palm and banana. 176 A TOUR The French purchase many of their horses for cavalry service in Blidah ; the stables containing several hundred of the finest animals of pure Arabian stock. They are constantly bought from the Arabs who obtain as high as from $500 to $1,500 apiece, according to color, the sorrel being most highly esteemed. The Gorge of Chiffa, ten miles from Blidah by carriage, is a rent in the Atlas mountains, through which flows the river of the same name ; it is wild and rugged, and is considered the finest mountain scenery of all Algeria. In a narrow ravine leading from the Gorge is the Monkey brook, where innumerable apes and monkeys leap from rock to rock and from branch to branch uttering their discordant accents. Al- though permitting a near proximity, these animals are difficult to capture owing to their intuitive suspicion of mankind ; their less wary progeny alone falling sometimes in the snares laid to en- trap them. Algiers, the capital of Algeria, has a popu- lation of 60,000. Its white, flat-roofed houses, rising one above another on the sloping hill-side, present a singularly oriental aspect. This city was for many years the terror of the civilized world ; it was the headquarters of pirates whose ravages extended over the Mediterranean ; Chris- tians of all nationalities being captured by them and cast into slavery. The modern part of the AROUND THE WORLD. 1 77 city is that nearest the sea, it has wide streets with handsome buildings the second stories projecting over the sidewalks and arcades roofed with glass, offering shelter in inclement weather. The Boulevard de la Republique is a mag- nificent avenue built sixty feet above the water level, on arches of stone masonry, and extends several miles along the bay. It is inclosed on one side by the principal mosques, hotels and public squares, and on the other by a balustrade with occasional openings from which steps or roads lead down to the water's edge. The. old or Arab part of the town is on the rise of the hill, above the modern or French por- tion ; the streets which are very narrow and crooked, form an intricate net-work, their pre- cipitous ascent broken by a series of stone stairs, the Rue de la Kasba being simply a continuation of 497 steps. The houses, which are very high, project from the upper story, almost meeting mid-air. Bordering these streets are the native shops, mere niches in the walls, where business is transacted ; the barber shops and cafes presenting the greatest interest to seekers of novelty. On the street one is struck by the variety of costumes, the Jew with fez, dark colored jacket, red sash, and blue stockings; the Moor in white turban, embroid- ered jacket, full, short trousers, and white stock- ings ; bare-legged Arabs wrapped in white bur- nooses; negroes, black as ebony, from Nubia; the A TOUR Greek, Spaniard and Maltese ; with the French and native soldiers in their gay uniforms, all jostle one another in the busy thoroughfares. The Place Bresson is a lovely square filled with tropical plants ; the Place du Gouvernement has in its centre an equestrian statue of the Duke of Orleans ; and the Place d'Armes, the former place of execution, is celebrated as being the spot where St. Geronimo was buried alive. The Kasba or citadel, once the palace of the Deys, stands on the summit of the hill over- looking the city. It was here that, in 1827, the Dey struck the French consul in the face with his fan, an insult which cost him his empire and led to the conquest of the city by the French. Of the several mosques in Algiers, the Old and the New Mosques are the finest in external architecture. In accordance with the simplicity of the Moslem form of worship, their interior consists of bare white walls, divided into naves by columns which are wrapped about with matting to the height of some three feet; the floors are covered with prayer-rugs; lamps are suspended from the ceilings, and the Mihrat, a niche in the wall, indicates the direction in which Mecca lies. On Friday which is the Mohammedan Sabbath the Moslem repairs to the Mosque, and after his preliminary ablutions, enters with uncovered feet, and prostrates himself upon the ground, touching his forehead frequently to the floor, invariably AROUND THE WORLD. 179 turning his face towards Mecca, and apparently lost to the outward world. Overlooking the Jardin Marengo is a mosque and koubba combined, which enshrines the tomb of the saint Aba-er- Rahman, surrounded by those of pashas and deys ; lights are kept continually burning on this tomb, which is hung around with flags, ostrich eggs and other offerings from the faithful. On a brow of the hill overlooking the sea is the handsome church of Notre Dame d'Afrique ; the interior of whose walls are covered with wooden crutches, and with waxen imitations of hearts, heads, and limbs, as offerings to its tute- lary saint for having effected miraculous cures of disease in each respective portion of the human body. Every Sunday afternoon the priest, fol- lowed by the devout, marches in procession to a projecting point overhanging the sea, and per- forms the service for the dead over that vast grave. Directly below the church, on the sands of the beach, a weird religious ceremony takes place once a week, at sunrise. A sect composed of various nationalities Jew, Arab, Moor, and Ne- gro assemble here with their priest to perform their singular rites, which are supposed to effect miraculous cures. The afflicted each bring with them a chicken, which is offered to the priest, who adroitly cuts its throat in a manner to preserve 180 A TOUR the blood ; with this he anoints the parts affected, muttering the while certain incantations or exor- cisms ; after which the subjects proceed to bathe in the cleansing waters of the sea whence they are supposed to issue purified. The Ai'ssaoui is another sect of fanatics, some- what similar to the Dervishes, composed of Arabs, Kabyles, and Negroes, and derives its name from its founder Sidi-Mahomet-Ben-A'issa. Their religious rites, which are now rarely per- mitted by the French authorities on account of the barbarity exercised, take place under roof, ac- companied by the primitive, monotonous sounds of drums beaten by the hand. Working them- selves up to the required pitch of nervous excite- ment, the fanatics rush with an unearthly yell into the ring, and execute a frantic dance, their bodies swaying and writhing with the violence of their emotions, while they utter growls similar to those of beasts of prey. Among the ceremonies we witnessed were the ordeals of walking barefooted on red-hot irons, the burning flesh impregnating the air with its sickening odor; holding live coals in their mouths ; beating their bare breasts with great stones ; standing on the sharp edges of swords, running steel blades through their cheeks, tongues, and bodies ; and eating live scorpions, and the leaves of the prickly pear. Three miles from Algiers is the Jardin d'Es- sai an extensive farm, with beautiful avenues AROUND THE WORLD. l8l of bamboo, palm, date, banana, and magnolia, where are raised large numbers of ostriches. These birds which are of white, black, and grey plumage, are caught on the desert with some diffi- culty ; in order to capture one of them, the speed of ten swift horses stationed at certain intervals, is required to run it down. The ostrich averages 2OO Ibs., is valued at about $300, and lives to the age of 40 years. Between this garden and the city is the Arab cemetery where every Friday afternoon the women assemble to pray upon the graves of their dead. On the road we passed caravans of camels, heavily laden with fruit and various merchandise, on their way to and from the city. From Algiers we crossed the Mediterranean, passing between the islands of Majorca and Min- orca, and landed on the southern coast of France. Marseilles is the great commercial seaport of France on the Mediterranean, and has a popula- tion of 325,000. It was founded by the Phoeni- cians 600 years B. C., and in its vicinity is the battlefield where Hannibal and his Carthagenians on their march upon Rome encountered the Ro- man legions. The quays of Marseilles are magnificent, and its harbor the finest in France, accommodating hundreds of vessels, and is so arranged as to al- low of the entrance of but one at a time. The streets are wide and clean, the principal of which 1 82 A TOUR are bordered with trees and handsome buildings; the Prado, a lovely shaded avenue, several miles in length, being a favorite drive of an afternoon. Its principal edifices are, the Church of Notre Dame de la Garde, located on an eminence, the Palais de Longchamps; the Cathedral, and the Bourse. The Chateau d'lf on a rocky island in the bay, five miles from Marseilles, was the scene of Dumas' greatest work of fiction the Count of Monte Cristo. The water surrounding the island is deep and rough but it is accessible by sail boat in fair weather. On the wall of a prison cell are still visible the mathematical calculations of the abbe Ferrier. The size of his small donjon cell barely measures the length of the narrow bed that concealed the aperture in the wall, which he made at cost of such peril and sleepless vigils, thus enabling the wretched prisoner to com- municate with Edmond Dantes. A point on the battlement, reached by stone steps, is shown where the living sewn up in a bag was thrown into the sea in place of the dead man ; and a rock two miles distant is seen where Dantes first placed foot after making his almost miraculous escape. The Chateau d'lf is also notable as the tem- porary place of confinement of the man of the Iron Mask, whose identity is to this day en- shrouded in mystery, and of other better known, but perhaps less distinguished prisoners. AROUND THE WORLD. 183 From Marseilles to Nice, the railroad passes through Toulon, the great naval arsenal of France on the Mediterranean, which is strongly fortified, and now considered impregnable. Toulon was taken by the English in August 1793; but as 5,OOO troops were inadequate to garrison such ex- tensive works, the important pass of Ollioules on the west was left unguarded, and was entered by 50,000 mad Republicans reeking with the gore of the inhabitants of Marseilles and Lyons, who killed all whom they met whether friend or foe. Six thousand were massacred by order of the Committee of Public Safety, of which Robes- pierre was at the head, notwithstanding the pro- testations of the French general, Du Gommier, and those of his lieutenant Bonaparte. It was at Toulon that Napoleon for the first time in command, had an opportunity of display- ing his military genius, and so planted his bat- teries on the heights as to command all the forts held by the enemy. A few miles beyond Toulon, on the coast, is the village of St. Raphael where Napoleon em- barked for Elba in 1814, the beginning and clos- ing of his wonderful career taking place in such near proximity. Cannes, delightfully situated on a bay of the same name, is a winter resort noted for its mild climate. It has many lovely villas, and pleasant Walks and drives in every direction. I 84 A TOUR Nice, on the Mediterranean, with a resident population of 54,000, is a favorite resort on ac- count of its perfect climate. Some of its streets and buildings may compare favorably with those of Paris, while the Promenade des Anglais, which faces the sea, is thronged every afternoon with the elite and fashion of the place. It was in Nice that Massina was born, 1758, and Garibaldi in 1807. A marble cross commem- orates the visit, in 1538, of Pope Paul III., who came to effect a reconciliation between Francis I. of France and Charles V. of Germany, and a monument is also erected in honor of the visit of Pope Pius VII. in 1814. A charming drive in the suburbs of the city leads to the Franciscan monastery, the road pass- ing through an old Roman amphitheatre and near many lovely villas. In Nice a specialty is made of bonbons made of the real petals of the violet, orange, and rose, coated with sugar in such manner as to retain their natural fragrance. Monaco, the smallest sovereign principality in Europe, being only one mile in width, and having an army of only 72 men, projects into the Medi- terranean from the south-eastern corner of France, and is protected from the winds of the north, by a spur of the Alps which rises behind it like a vast amphitheatre. On one of the peninsulas is the town of AROUND THE WORLD. 185 Monaco and the palace of Prince Grimaldi, while on the opposite point is Monte Carlo, the famous gambling place of Europe, which the prince rents to a French company for a fabulous sum. On the top of the mountain stand romantic ruins of old Roman towers, further down, magni- ficent gardens, filled with palm and date trees, beautiful flowers, and a luxuriance of other tropical growth, while below, the blue curves of the bay, combine to render the scene a most charming one. The Casino is a magnificent harmony of frescoes, gildings, mirrors, and paintings. The Concert room seats I,OOO people, and is free to the habitues of the place, who congregate there daily to listen to the strains of the finest string band in Europe. The Gambling rooms, three in number, open one into the other, and contain seven tables for the game which begins at 12 M. and closes at 11:30 P. M. No one is permitted here under sixteen years of age, but in singular contrast is tot- tering old age and blooming youth, dazzling beauty and frivolous fashion, nobles, plebeians, actresses, and demi-mondaines, all intent upon the game ; money flowing lavishly, fortunes made and lost in a few hours. The Cornice road, which extends from Nice to Spezia, runs parallel with the railway skirting the shores of the Mediterranean, passing near a num- ber of small villages and places of resort, one of the most attractive of which is San Remo. I 86 A TOUR CHAPTER XVI. GENOA: TURIN: MILAN: VERONA: VENICE: BOLOGNA: FLORENCE: CARRARA: PISA. GENOA, is a city of 162,000 inhabitants, built on and between hills overlooking the bay. Its streets are very narrow, especially in the old quarter, and its houses, many of which are of marble, rise to a great height, having as many as eight and ten stories. As a rule the exterior of the houses are stuccoed, painted red or yellow, and frescoed from top to bottom, while the roofs being flat and filled with plants and shrubs serve as a promenade for the owners. Genoa is especially noted as having been the native city of Columbus, who was born here in 1436. His statue adorns a square in the city, and represents him leaning on an anchor, America kneeling at his feet, and surrounding him figures typical of Wisdom, Strength, Geography and Re- ligion. The city is celebrated for its delicate filagree work in gold and silver, and is a great manufac- turing place for silks and velvets. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, a portion of which was a heathen temple of worship in olden AROUND THE WORLD. l8/ times, is built of black and white marble in hori- zontal stripes, and is adorned with handsome columns, and grotesque figures representing ani- mals. In the treasury of this church is the Sacro Catino, the dish from which it is said Christ ate the Last Supper. It is of dark green glass, ten inches across and four deep, and was kept in the Temple until Caesarea was taken by the combined armies of Pisa and Genoa, when the latter took it as their share of the booty. So great was the veneration in which this dish was held, the Jews loaned 5,000,000 francs $1,000,000 on it, and when on exhibition once a year, it was attached by a strong chain which was held by a priest, and was guarded by twelve noblemen. The Church of the Annunciation has the finest interior of any in Genoa, being finished in a great variety of marbles, its ceiling and dome frescoed to represent scenes from the Old and New Testa- ments. The palaces of Genoa are of marble with an open court inclosed in pillars ; the entrance doors or gates are frequently forty feet high, and sur- mounted by the coat-of-arms of the owner, and both exteriorly and interiorly, they are dingy, damp, cold, and prison-like. The principal of these are the Pallavicini, Doria, Brignoli, and Doria-Torsi palaces, in all of which are fine paint- ings, while the ducal palace, formerly the resi- dence of the Doges, is now used for public offices. 188 A TOUR The Campo Santo, or Cemetery, three miles from Genoa, is on the side of a hill, and is justly celebrated for its many magnificent monuments ; these, the best works of Villa, Benetti, and Mor- eno, are cut from the purest white marble ; their originality of design and delicacy of execution, being truly wonderful. The humble graves of the poor offer a striking contrast, being simply mounds of earth surmounted by lanterns. Seven miles from Genoa is the villa of Count Pallavicini, in the grounds of which are a great variety of plants and trees, miniature mosques, pagodas, and temples, with numerous jets of water, leaping up here and there at most unex- pected turns, and a stalactite grotto in which is a small lake, winding through to an opening on the opposite side, where a scene of unexpected beauty greets the eye. Turin, on the river Po, with a population of 193,000, differing from other Italian towns, is well built, with streets running at right angles, and houses massive and substantial, its several squares containing many fine monuments. In the Piazza Castello stands the old castle of the dukes of Savoy, also the present palace, adjoining, which is the Royal Armory, noted for its fine display of arms. In the chapel of St. Sinode attached to the Cathedral, is preserved the winding sheet of the Saviour. From Turin, there is a magnificent view of the AROUND THE WORLD. 189 Alps, and from this point rail is taken to lorea, thence stage and horse to the Hospice at the summit of the great St. Bernard. Milan, the capital of Lombardy, with a popu- lation of 261,000 and noted for its manufacture of silk and velvet, is the finest and most modern- built city in Italy, full of activity and thrift, and free from those evidences of decline visible in other Italian cities. It is nearly circular in form, and seven miles around, with thirteen gates of massive proportions, the finest of these being the Porta della Pace, on the Simplon road ; it is of marble ornamented with statues, and surmounted by the bronze figure of Peace in a chariot drawn by six horses. Within the city are the well-preserved remains of an ancient Roman arena, sufficiently large to accommodate 30,000 spectators. Here Napoleon witnessed a regatta in 1807, water having been in- troduced into it by artificial means. The Duomo, or Cathedral of Milan, the finest in Italy, is one of the most beautiful existing specimens of Gothic architecture. It is con- structed of white marble, from the quarries of Gandolia, which was bequeathed to the Cathedral by Gian Galleazzo, and is in the form of the Latin cross, 477x183 feet, surmounted by hundreds of spires and 4,000 statues. The interior, with its double aisles, lofty arches, and clustered pillars ninety feet high, and eight in diameter, is very A TOUR imposing, and beneath the dome are the remains of St. Charles Borromeo, who was archbishop of Milan in the 1 6th century. On the wall of the Refectory in the Dominican Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, is Leonardo da Vinci's fresco of the Last Supper. This, one of his first works 30 feet in length by 15 in height, occupied sixteen years of his life. Though greatly damaged by dampness, age, and violence the monks having cut a door through the feet of the principal figure, and Napoleon having used the room for a stable it is still considered the finest painting in the world. In the Church of St. Ambrogio where the German emperors received the crown of Lom- bardy, they claim to have the Brazen Serpent made by Moses in the Wilderness. The Biblioteca Ambrosiana comprises 175,000 volumes-, and 20,000 MSS. among which are, a note-book of Leonardo da Vinci ; a lost oration of Cicero ; translations from Homer, Josephus, and Livy ; and the correspondence of Cardinal Bembo and Lucrezia Borgia, with a lock of her hair. In the centre of the Piazza della Scala a public square, is a monument, in Carrara marble, of Leonardo da Vinci surrounded by his pupils. Facing this stands the famous Teatro della Scala, which contains six tiers of boxes seating 4,000 people, and whose acoustic properties are superior to those of any other theatre in the world. AROUND THE WORLD. IQI In the Monumental Cemetery is the Crema- tion house, containing furnaces and all other neces- sary appliances for the incinerary rites. The body is placed on an iron slide and pushed into an oven which after being rendered air-tight, is brought to intense heat by means of brush twigs, but two hours being required to reduce the body to ashes. Verona, on the river Adige, with a population of 67,000, was once the capital of the kingdom of Italy, and afterwards that of quite a large territory governed successively by the Scaligers and Vi- contis. It was near here Marius fought his famous battle against the Cimbri ; here Theodoric the Great won the victory over Odoacer; and in the 1 3th and I4th centuries transpired the conten- tions between the Capuletti and Montecchi, which Shakespeare has immortalized in his story of the loves of Romeo and Juliet. Verona is celebrated as having given birth to Julius Caesar Scaliger, Caius Secundus, Pliny the elder, whose tragic death occurred at Vesuvius, and Paul Cagliari, surnamed Veronese. The principal objects of interest in the city are, the old Roman amphitheatre, which seated 25,000 per- sons, and is in a perfect state of preservation : the Church of Zanzenone, in which are the statue of the black African bishop St. Zeno, and the tomb of Guiseppi della Scala to whom Dante refers. The Palazzo del Consiglio is a< IQ2 A TOUR of Catullus Fracastorio, poet and astronomer, Pliny and other sons of Verona. In a public thoroughfare yet stand, as they have for 500 years, the tombs of the Scaligers, the old lords of Verona ; while still to be seen are the houses of the Montagues and Capu- lets the latter bearing the armorial crest of the Capulet bonnet: here Juliet's room and balcony are pointed out, and her grave is shown in a re- mote part of the city. The play of Romeo and Juliet was produced by Shakespeare in 1596, but the original author of the story, a fact not gener- ally known, was Luigi da Porta, a gentleman of Vicenza, who died in 1529. Venice, the queen of the Adriatic, was founded in 462, by the inhabitants of Aquilera, who fled to the shallow lagunes for safety, when Italy was in- vaded by Attila. It is built on 117 islands on a bay in the Gulf of Venice, intersected by 150 narrow canals which are spanned by 380 short bridges. As there are few or no sidewalks, the mode of conveyance used either for business or pleasure is the gondola a long narrow boat rowed by two men who stand erect one at the bow and the other at the stern, propelling it with grace and skill. These boats, which hold from two to six persons, are painted black by legal ordinance which was established to prevent the growing rivalry of extravagance. They are comfortably and luxuriously appointed, but in bad weather a AROUND THE WORLD. 193 wooden covering is thrown over that portion occupied by passengers, which with its gloomy trappings gives it the appearance of a hearse. The city is chiefly noted for its glass manu- factures and wood carvings, and contains many fine churches and palaces built mostly after the Byzantine-Moorish style, while many of its towers and houses, on account of their sunken founda- tions, lean almost as much as the Tower of Pisa % The city by daylight is unattractive, as the houses; are mouldy and out of repair, but by moonlight it is exceedingly beautiful, showing the light, open style of architecture to advantage. Gliding over the glassy surface of the canals, with music pulsing in the air, and the sheen of the moonlight casting a glamour over the scene, is enchanting and attractive for a time, but after a few weeks* stay the novelty wears off, and the fact of being dependent upon a gondola and gondolier gives, one a sense of infinite helplessness ; for as some- one has said : " Venice is a paradise for cripples^ as a man has little use for his legs." The Grand Canal which is two and a half miles in length, three hundred feet in width, and six in depth, runs through the heart of the city in the form of the letter S. On it are situated most of the fine buildings, and mid-way it is spanned by the famous Ponte di Rialto a marble bridge bordered on either side by shops which connects the two large islands of Rialto and San Marco. 13 IQ4 A TOUR The Piazza di San Marco is the principal square in the city, where the band plays in the evening, and all Venice promenades from 7 to 9. At 2 P. M. when the clock strikes the hour hun- dreds of pigeons fly from all directions to its centre to be fed, an old lady having bequeathed her fortune for this purpose. Around this square are the principal cafes, shops, and public buildings, including St. Mark's Church, and the palaces of the Doge and the King. At the water-front are two granite columns from Syria, on one of which is the statue of St. Theodore, the protector of the Republic, standing on an alligator, and on the other the Lion of St. Mark, with one foot on the Bible and another on a ball ; between these two columns public executions formerly took place. St. Mark's Church standing at the head of the Square, was founded in 828 to receive the re- mains of St. Mark brought from Alexandria, Egypt, and is of the Gothic and Oriental styles. In front of the church are the three staffs which formerly bore the flags of Candia, Cyprus, and Morea, and above the main entrance are the four famous bronze horses of Chian origin. These horses were taken to Constantinople by Theodo- sius, from thence they were removed by the Vene- tians, in 1206, when they plundered the capital of the Eastern Empire; they were afterwards car- ried to Paris by Napoleon, and subsequently restored to Venice. The pulpits and walls of the AROUND THE WORLD. 195 church are of costly marble decorated with Bibli- cal illustrations in glass mosaic, and of its 500 pillars of alabaster and stone, the four centre ones supporting the canopy over the relics of St. Mark, are said to have been brought from the Temple of Solomon. The altar of the baptistry is formed of a granite slab on which, it is said, Jesus stood when he preached to the inhabitants of Tyre, and near the central portal is a red marble block in- serted in the floor marking the spot where Pope Alexander III. was reconciled to the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, July 23d, 1177. To the left and right of the church are the bell and clock towers, up the former of which Napo- leon rode apparently in imitation of the feat per- formed by Peter the Great in Copenhagen; while the latter contains a large and complicated clock with two life-size bronze figures of men which strike the hour with sledge hammers. The Doge's Palace, on the east side of St. Mark's Square, is built of red and white marble, in the Oriental style, and is supported on the Square and water-front sides by colonnades. It is en- tered by the Giant Staircase, which derives its name from the gigantic statues of Mars and Nep- tune ; besides these are those of Adam and Eve, while ranged around the corridor are busts of celebrated Venetians ; here the doge, Marino Fa- liero, was beheaded for plotting against the Republic. 196 A TOUR At the head of the Giant Staircase is The Lion's Mouth a small hole in the wall formerly covered with a lion's head, in the mouth of which informers were wont to place anonymous commu- nications warning the authorities against suspected conspiracies ; this means was not infrequently taken advantage of to gratify personal animosity, and many an innocent victim was arrested and sentenced to death. Ascending the stairs one enters the Library, which contains the first book printed in Venice, in 1469, and the will of Marco Polo, dated 1324. The Hall of the Great Council is a vast apart- ment, its walls and ceiling covered with frescoes, at one end of which is Tintoretto's painting on canvas of Paradise, 84x33^ feet in size, while bordering the walls are the portraits of the 72 doges, that of Marino Faliero being obliterated. When the patricians governed Venice, plebeians had no vote or voice in state affairs : from the 1500 patricians, 300 senators were chosen; from the senators, a council of 10, who elected from their number a doge, and by secret ballot these IO chose a council of 3, who judged all political criminals, and from whose sentence there was no appeal : these met at night in the Dark Room, masked, and unknown to each other or even to the Doge. In the vestibule leading into this apartment was another Lion's Mouth in which the patricians deposited their accusations signed with AROUND THE WORLD. 197 their own names unlike those of the plebeians. The Chamber of the Council of Three is of dark wood, imparting a gloomy aspect in keeping with the mystery of their transactions : in closets in this room were kept their masks and gowns, and secret passages connected it with the prison. Mystery and darkness likewise enshrouded all dealings with the suspected. The accused was arrested in the secrecy of night and conveyed in a gondola to the water door of the prison, where he was confined in a donjon cell, until taken across the Bridge of Sighs to receive sentence in the Chamber of the Council of Three, which sentence invariably meant a horrible death. " I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs ; A palace and a prison on each hand.'' The Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, is a covered passage, divided by a lengthwise parti- tion, one small window admitting light within, and permitting to the condemned a last glimpse of the outer world he was quitting forever. At the entrance of the Arsenal are the four marble lions brought from Piraeus in 1687, and within it, is a model of the Bucentaur the Doge's gilded barge used at the annual cere- monial of his marriage with the Adriatic when the nuptial ring dropped into its waves consum- mated the poetic rites. 198 A TOUR In the private palace of Treves are the colossal marble statues of Hector and Ajax, the last works of the great Canova. Of the other objects of general interest in Venice are, the house of Shy- lock, the " Merchant of Venice," situated in the Jews' quarter near the Grand Canal ; that of Cristoforo Moro, the original of Shakespeare's Othello ; the house of Desdemona, now a part of the Grand Hotel ; the house of Lucrezia Borgia, now a museum ; and the palace occupied by Lord Byron while writing his beautiful description of Venice. The Church of Santa Maria di Frari, mag- nificently adorned with a variety of marbles, contains the beautiful monuments to Titian and Canova, and a most peculiar one to the Doge Giovanni Pessaro, consisting of four gigantic Nu- bians in black marble, their drapery of a strongly contrasting white marble, bearing on their heads sacks of India coffee. While in Venice we witnessed a grand illu- mination on land and water, given in honor of a visit from the English fleet. An immense barge gay with colored lights, and flags of all nations, and bearing a fine band of music, was drawn by smaller boats, and followed by hundreds of illu- minated gondolas, through the canals. These latter were bordered by brilliantly-lighted build- ings, while colored rockets sped like meteors through the air. AROUND THE WORLD. 199 Taking rail from Venice in a southerly direc- tion, we stopped at Bologna, celebrated for its manufacture of sausages ; crossed the Apennines range, having a succession of beautiful views, and passed through Pistoria, where pistols were origi- nally manufactured, and whence they took their name ; and near here Cataline was defeated and slain. Florence, in the province of Tuscany, on both banks of the Arno, has a population of 170,000. It has been immortalized by Byron and Rogers, and revered as the birthplace of Dante, Petrarch, Boccaccio, Galileo, Michael Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Benvenuto Cellini, and Andraea del Sarto. In the Piazza della Signoria stands the Pal- azzo Vecchio, formerly the residence of the su- perior magistrate, near which is the Fountain of Neptune on the site where the reformer, Savona- rola, suffered martyrdom ; and under the Loggia di Lanzi are fine sculptures of the Rape of the Sabines by Giovanni di Bologna ; Perseus, by Benvenuto Cellini ; the Rape of Polixena ; and the Dying Ajax. Florence is noted for her large collections of the fine arts ; and for the manufacture of mosaics, which are composed of colored stones blended with such artistic skill as to resemble the most delicate painting. The Uffizi Gallery, one of the largest and most valuable collections existing, contains Titian's 200 A TOUR Venus Reposing ; the Mater Dolorosa by Sasso- ferrato ; and the marble statues of the Venus di Medici, found in Hadrian's villa during the reign of the Medici; the Wrestlers; the Young Ath- lete ; and the Dancing Faun ; besides a vase cut from a single block of Lapis Lazuli 14 inches in diameter ; and a mosaic table, which required the labor of fifteen years, and is valued at $200,000. The Pitti Palace the residence of the king when in Florence, has a collection of 500 paint- ings by old masters ; the most celebrated of these are Raphael's Madonna della Seggiola, or Ma- donna of the chair ; Titian's Magdalene ; Murillo's Madonna and Child ; and a painting representing Diogenes in the act of throwing away his cup on seeing a boy drink from his hand : besides these are Canova's sculptured Venus, and other fine marbles. In the Academy of Fine Arts are Michael An- gelo's colossal statue of David ; and a fair collec- tion of paintings by modern artists ; while in the National Museum formerly the State prison are Michael Angelo's Leda and the Swan ; and Gio- vanni di Bologna's Mercury in bronze. The Tribuna dedicated to the memory of Galileo contains his statue in marble; also, in a glass case, one of his fingers ; and his telescope and other astronomical instruments. On the walls are three beautiful frescoes representing scenes in the life of this great astronomer; one depicting AROUND THE WORLD. 2OI him in the Cathedral at Pisa swinging the lamp from which he originated the theory of the pen- dulum ; another, his demonstration of the power of the telescope before the Doge and Council of Ten ; and the last representing him as blind with one hand resting on the globe, the other pointing heavenward as he demonstrates to his pupils the motion of the heavenly bodies. The house in which Dante was born is still extant ; and in that of Michael Angelo, the illus- trious Italian painter, sculptor, and architect, born in 1474 and died in 1564 are his manu- scripts, swords, canes, designs, and his portrait by himself. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, built of black and white marbles, has the largest dome in the World, and served as a model for that of St. Peter; its campanile or bell-tower designed by Giotto, rises to a height of 275 feet; and near it are the statues of the two architects Arnolfo and Brunelleschi, while not far off is the Seat of Dante where the poet contemplated the beauties of the Cathedral. The Baptistry, built after the model of the Pantheon at Rome, from material taken from the temple of Mars, contains Ghilberti's celebrated bronze doors representing scenes from the Old and New Testaments, which Michael Angelo de- clared worthy of being the gates of Paradise. The Church of Santa Croce is the favorite 202 A TOUR burial-place; and contains" the tombs of, and fine monuments to Dante, Galileo and Michael Angelo Buonarrotti. Over the entrance are the letters I. H. S. anglicized Jesus Saviour of Men placed there by St. Bernadino of Sienna; who, reproving one of his flock for the manufacture of playing cards, suggested the substitution of these letters for the usual characters. The unique novelty of the inscription pleased the popular fancy and the sale of his cards realized him a fortune. In the Church of Ognisanti is the tomb of the discoverer Amerigo Vespucci marked only by a simple slab ; and in the Church of San Lorenzo is the Medicean Chapel, originally intended for the Holy Sepulchre, which the Tuscans intended stealing from Jerusalem, but failed in the attempt. The Chapel contains some magnificent mosaics and frescoes ; the walls are inlaid with valuable marbles and precious stones, with armorial bear- ings the very perfection of mosaic art. Here are the tombs of Guiliano and Lorenzo di Medici, and of other members of that wicked race. The Cascine is the Hyde Park of Florence, deriving its name from the dairy houses of the Grand Duke ; here the fashion of the city congre- gate of an afternoon, for the society of Florence makes no further requirements than an attend- ance at the Opera, and an equipage in the Cascine. Carrara is celebrated for its perfect white AROUND THE WORLD. 203 marble, which is used exclusively for statuary. The quarries, of which there are several, are on the side of a mountain overlooking the town, and give employment to about 6,000 men. The marble having been blasted, the huge blocks are carried by rail down the mountain side and hauled by ten or more oxen to the mills where they are sawed into more portable size. In the town are several fine studios of which Pietro Lazzerini's is the best known. Pisa, an ancient and much decayed city, is on the Arno, five miles from its mouth, and contains 50,000 inhabitants. The Leaning Tower, 183 feet in height, is built of white marble, and con- sists of eight stories, with outside galleries, which project seven feet, with an interior ascent of 294 stone steps. The topmost story overhangs the base on one side 14 feet, and underneath this point Galileo is said to have studied the principles of gravity. This tower was erected by Bonanno of Pisa, in 1174, and has probably taken its present inclination from the sinking of the earth at its foundation, although the Pisans claim it to have been produced by a miracle of architectural skill. The Cathedral which is composed of a variety of marbles has several old paintings and fine statues, while in the nave is suspended the large bronze lamp, the swinging of which first suggested to Galileo the theory of the pendulum. The Baptistry situated opposite the Cathedral 204 A TOUR is an immense circular building 160 feet in height surmounted by a cupola ; its interior is rich in marbles and mosaics, and contains a pulpit of exquisite workmanship. The Campo Santo is the most ancient burial ground of any in Italy, and the earth in this in- closure was brought from Jerusalem in 50 galleys in the year 1228. In the Piazza di Cavalieri is the Torre della Fame, or Tower of Fame, celebrated by Dante's description, and near this is the palace Lanfranchi where Lord Byron dwelt with the Countess Guicioli, and wrote his Werner and Don Juan. A small insignificant-looking house in the via Forbesas bears a marble slab with the inscription : "Galileo Galilei was born here February i8th, 1564." This eminent astronomer and inventor of the telescope, undertook in Rome, to demonstrate the theory of the Solar System discovered by Copernicus, but his theories being in advance of the unenlightened age in which he lived, aroused the ire of the priest-ridden people, and he was thrown into prison and compelled to deny his principles ; on his release, however, he exclaimed : " eppur si muove" "but it does move after all." The rail from Pisa to Rome passes through Leghorn, celebrated for its manufacture of straw hats, and in sight of the small island where Gari- baldi is buried, and of that of Elba, the scene of Napoleon's first exile. AROUND THE WORLD. 20$ CHAPTER XVII. ROME, ITS ENVIRONS. ROME is the most celebrated of European cities, famous in both ancient and modern history. It was once the capital of the most powerful nation of antiquity, and later the ecclesiastical capital of Christendom, and the place of residence of the Pope; since 1871 it has become the capital of United Italy and the city where the king holds his court. Rome is situated on both banks of the Tiber, 1 6 miles from its mouth, and has a population of 250,000. It once boasted 4,000,000 inhabitants, and its area encompassed seven hills, several of which are now marked but by ruins and decay. The origin of the city is involved in mystery, but the generally conceived idea is that it was founded 753 years B. C. by Romulus and Remus who, as the legend runs, were found on the banks of the river by a she-wolf, which had come to drink of the stream, carried them into her den hard by and suckled them. The Palatine Hill was first settled by a Greek colony under Evander 2,000 years B. C. and was afterwards the site of the city founded by Romu- 206 A TOUR lus, who inclosed it with a square wall, which gave it the name of Roma quadrata. Just outside of this wall was the sacred boundary over which Remus leaped in token of his contempt, and thereby incurring his brother's resentment was slain by him. At the beginning of the Empire Augustus built the first palace on the Palatine, to which were subsequently added those of Tiberius, Caligula, Domitian, and Septimus Severus, and consolidated into one is called the Palace of the Caesars. Among the ruins of this palace is the temple of Jupiter Stator where the Lares and Penates, or household gods, were enshrined ; where Nero condemned St. Paul to death, and where Cicero delivered his first scathing denunciation against Catiline ; and in the palace of Domitian is an amphitheatre where foot-races and other sports took place. Near by is the Circus Maximus, the scene of the rape of the Sabines by the Romans. The Capitoline Hill was the citadel of ancient Rome. It was betrayed by Tarpeia, the daugh- ter of the warden of the gates, to the Sabines, who entered the city, and after a time reigned jointly with the Romans. It was in this citadel that were kept the sacred geese whose cackling, on the ap- proach of the Gauls, aroused the garrison and thus saved Rome ; and it was from the Tarpeian Rock that the Roman commander Marcus Man- AROUND THE WORLD. 2O/ lius on this occasion, hurled the enemy headlong down the precipice. The Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus adjoins the Senate-chamber upon the steps of which Rienzi the last of the Tribunes fell beneath the daggers of the populace while attempting his escape. The Capitoline Museum, in front of which there is a fine equestrian statue of Marcus Aure- lius, and also of the twin heroes of the mythologi- cal era, Castor and Pollux, contains the following celebrated statuary : The Dying Gladiator, the Faun of Praxiteles, the Venus of the Capitol, Romulus and Remus nursed by the wolf, heroic figures of Julius and Augustus Caesar, busts of other Roman Emperors, besides a beautiful ancient mosaic of Pliny's Doves. The Roman Forum, which occupies the low land between the Palatine and Capitoline hills, was formerly the market-place and general place of assembly; here was the scene of important social, religious, and political events, and here were grouped the finest buildings of ancient Rome. The Forum is crossed by the Via Sacra, or Sacred Way, over which the household gods were carried from the Palatine to the Temple of Jupiter on the Capitoline, and where returning victors marched in triumphal procession. Its ruins comprise the temples of the Sun, of Saturn, Concord, Janus, Castor and Pollux, Faustina, and Vespasian ; the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods, 208 A TOUR the column of Phocus, the Basilicas Julia and Con- stantine, the house of Julius Caesar, the Tabula- rium or House of Records, and the arcltes of Septimus Severus, Constantine, and Titus. The Arch of Titus has on one side a bas-relief of this Emperor returning in triumphal procession from Jerusalem, while on the other is a representa- tion of the seven-branched candlestick, and through this arch it is said Josephus marched, a prisoner, with other captives. The Forum was the scene of the death of Vir- ginia, and the ruins of the shop where Virginius snatched the knife to save his daughter's honor, is still extant. Here is the rostrum where Mark Antony made his oration over the dead body of Julius Caesar, the spot where it was burnt and the ashes buried ; also the rostrum from which Cicero discoursed, and where, after his death, his head and hands were exposed to public gaze. In the centre of the Forurn once stood a column on which was enscribed the distance from Rome, of every important city in the world ; hence the expression used : "that all roads lead to Rome." In close proximity to the Forum is the Ma- mertine Prison an underground donjon where Saint Peter and Saint Paul were confined, and in it is a spring of water which is said, gushed forth to enable Saint Peter to baptize his converted jailers. The Colosseum, a vast amphitheatre was AROUND THE WORLD. 209 commenced by Vespasian and finished by Titus, A. D. 80. It is 157 feet high, 1,900 in circum- ference, and was built by 60,000 captive Jews, who were engaged ten years in its construction. It once seated 87,000 spectators, the seats rising in tiers one above another ; the Emperor's box occupied a prominent position, and on either side of it sat the Senators and the Vestal Virgins. Beneath are subterranean passages and chambers where both men and beasts were confined, and whence they were brought into the arena by means of elevators. After the close of the gladiatorial sports, water was let in by means of aqueducts, and galleys introduced for the pur- pose of representations of naval engagements. At the inauguration of the Colosseum, the festivi- ties of which lasted 100 days, 5,000 wild beasts and 10,000 captives were slain and many Chris- tian martyrs perished. The Golden House of Nero, so called from its magnificence and splendor, and which was inlaid with gold and mother-of-pearl, still shows on its walls the remains of exquisite frescoes, a design from which was adopted by Napoleon for the standard of his army. In the portico stood a colossal bronze statue of Nero 120 feet in height, the mutilated remains of which are now to be seen in the capitol. It is said to have been for the purpose of enlarging the grounds around his palace that Nero caused a portion of Rome to be 14 210 A TOUR burned : his name was so obnoxious to the people on account of his many crimes, that after his death his palace was partly buried under ground, and on top of it Titus built his magnificent and extensive baths. The Castle of St. Angelo, formerly the mau- soleum of Hadrian, and the tomb of subsequent emperors to the time of Septimus Severus, was during the middle ages converted into a fortress and prison. In its donjon cells were confined and tortured Galileo and Beatrice Cenci, and the square opposite was the scene of the execution of that unfortunate girl. The Castle is now con- nected with the Vatican by a covered passage, and here the popes take refuge in times of trouble. The Baths of Caracalla, a -superb ruin, were built by that emperor in 212, and covered 140,- OOO square yards. They consisted of swimming, hot, and steam baths, with an accommodation for 1, 600 bathers, and were surrounded by pleasure grounds and stadium or course for foot-races. Among these ruins were found the marble group of the Farnese Bull. The Vatican, the residence of the Pope, is the largest palace in the world, having 5,000 apart- ments and 20 Courts. The Sistine chapel con- tains the Last Judgment, by Michael Angelo a painting 60 feet in height by 30 in length. The Library has 120,000 volumes and manuscripts, besides many fine vases, and the largest block of AROUND THE WORLD. 211 malachite known. The Gallery of Sculpture and Painting is considered one of the most complete and valuable in existence, and comprises among its statuary the Apollo Belvidere, the Laocoon, Ariadne, and Cleopatra ; among the paintings are Raphael's Transfiguration, the Communion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino ; the Baptism of Constantine, and the Crucifixion of St. Peter, by Guido Reni. In the Museum are, a Roman chariot, an iron grating used for cremation, the porphyry sarcophagus of the daughter and wife of Constantine, and the Pope's state carriage, containing his arm-chair, and a seat for his Prime Minister. Of the other palaces of Rome are, the Royal the residence of the King; the Barberini, in which are the portraits of Guido's Beatrice Cenci, and Raphael's Fornarina ; the Spada where is the marble statue of Pompey formerly in the Sen- ate-chamber at the base of which " great Caesar fell ;" the Borghese, with a valuable collection of old and rare paintings ; the Rospigliosi, which contains Guido's fresco of Aurora strewing flowers before Apollo in his chariot of the Sun ; the Far- nese, once the residence of Pope Paul III.; and the Borghese villa, in which are the statues of Pauline Borghese, by Canova, David with his sling, and Daphne being transformed into a laurel tree. St. Peter's, the great marvel of ecclesiastical architecture, is built on the site of the Basilica 212 A TOUR erected by Constantine upon that of the Circus of Nero, and on the very spot consecrated by the blood of the martyrs slaughtered by order of that tyrant. The present edifice was begun during the reign of Pope Julius in 1506, and completed at a cost of $6o,OOO,OOO, the architects being Bra- mante and Michael Angelo. It is built of white traverstine stone, in the form of a Latin cross, is 607 feet in length, 448 in height, and covers 8 acres of ground. At its entrance are the eques- trian statues of Constantine and Charlemagne, and its dome is surmounted by a ball capable of hold- ing sixteen people. In the interior are 46 altars and 400 statues of saints and popes, while the dome and walls are covered with beautiful mar- bles and glass mosaic pictures. In the centre of the church is a bronze baldachino over the re- mains of St. Peter and St. Paul ; at the extreme end is the gilded tribune containing the chair of St. Peter, while his statue in bronze is an object of great veneration to the devout, whose kisses, through successive generations, have considerably reduced the proportions of the toe. In the Sa- cristy are the robes of the pope 14 in number and the crown and mitre of St. Peter, with which, on rare occasions, his statue is adorned. St. Paul's, next to St. Peter's, is the most magnificent church in Rome. It is rich in varie- gated marbles, malachite altars, oriental alabaster pillars, besides 80 granite columns, and 261 mo- AROUND THE WORLD. 213 saic medallions of the popes, from St. Peter to Leo XIII. Of the remaining 365 churches in Rome, may be mentioned that of St. John Lateran, where the coronation of the popes take place, and in whose Baptistry Charlemagne was crowned. It was in its font that Constantine was baptized, and Rienzi bathed, for which sacrilegious act he was excommunicated by the Church. In a building opposite is the Scala Santa or Holy Staircase, supposed to be those of Pilate's house which Christ was compelled to ascend to receive sentence. On the steps are spots of His blood which are reverently kissed by those who following His footsteps, ascend on their knees. Down this stairway, contrary to usage, Luther walked, in defiance of the superstitious reverence of the Catholics. The Pantheon as its name signifies was formerly a Pagan temple, in niches of which once stood statues of gods and goddesses, now a mau- soleum for the late King Victor Emanuel II., and for Raphael the artist ; once the scene of the dei- fication of heroes, and again that of the canoniza- tion of martyrs. The Church of Santa Maria dei Angeli, built on the site of the Baths of Diocletian, contains several fine paintings, and an ancient sun meridian on the pavement. The Church of St. Peter-in-chains has Michael 214 A TOUR Angelo's statue of Moses, and contains the chains which once bound St. Peter. In the Church of St. Maria della Concezione is Guido Reni's famous painting of St. Michael, and in its vaults are the remains of 4,000 departed Capuchin monks whose skeletons are ranged in hideous and ghastly attitudes. The Church of St. Sebastiana is over the Cata- combs where St. Sebastian is buried, and contains one of the arrows with which he was pierced, and a stone bearing a footprint of Christ. Among other points of interest in Rome are the Temple of Vesta where the Vestal Virgins guarded the sacred fire, the Mausoleum of Au- gustus now a circus, the Theatre of Marcellus now the palace of the Orsini, the Temples of Juno and Minerva, the Portico of Octavia, the Baths of Agrippa and of Diocletian, the Temple of Fortune, the Theatre and Senate-hall of Pompey the place where Caesar fell, the Villa of Sallust, the Aqueduct of Nero, the Column of Marcus Aure- lius, the Obelisk of Augustus Caesar, the houses of Rienzi, Beatrice Cenci, and Tasso, in the latter of which the poet died, the Fountain of Treve, the Forums of Augustus, Nerva, Domitian, and Tra- jan, the latter containing the column from which Napoleon modelled the Column Vendome, and the remains of the Sublician Bridge which was defended by Horatio alone. While in Rome we were especially favored by AROUND THE WORLD. 215 an audience with his holiness Pope Leo XIII. The stipulated written requirements of toilet were, for gentlemen, full dress, for ladies, black, with lace mantillas of the same sombre hue covering the head. Arriving at the Vatican we passed the Swiss Guard, in their gay striped uniforms, and were ushered by attendants in red satin and knee- breeches through several apartments until we reached the one in which we were left to await the entrance of the Pope. As he entered, surrounded by his cardinals, all present knelt, comformably to etiquette, while he passed around the circle laying his hand in blessing upon the bowed head of each of his visitors. The more devout kissing his foot and the hem of his garment. Pope Leo XIII. is. a man of 70, tall, slender, and very frail, so weak as to be unable to walk without assistance. We also witnessed the Carnival in Rome which begins several days before the commence- ment of Lent. The balconies on the Corso were decorated with bright-colored bunting, and thronged with grotesquely-costumed masquerad- ers. Certain days are allotted for the throwing of flowers and confetti, but horse- racing down the Corso being now abandoned, this festival has lost much of its zest, and though mask balls take place every night, and other amusements are indulged in, the Carnival is altogether inferior to that of many other cities. 2l6 A TOUR The Appian way, which extends from Rome to Brindisi, was first made in 312 B. C, by Appius Claudius. It was bordered with temples, villas, and tombs, for it was the custom of the Romans to bury their dead on either side of the principal roads leading from the city. The monuments yet remaining are the Columbraria, or Pagan Sepul- chre, which is an underground chamber with niches in the walls where were placed the cin- erary urns ; the tomb of the Scipios, and that of Caecelia Metella, daughter of Crassus. On the Via Appia are also the Circus Maximus, where the chariot races occurred, and the aqueducts of Claudius and Marcia. Tivoli is a Sabine town nestling at the foot of the mountains. Near it are the romantic villages of Santangelo and Monticelli, and en route from Rome are passed the camping ground of Hanni- bal; Palatio, where Lucretia killed herself, un- able to survive her dishonor, and Gabbi, which was taken by the Romans under Tarquin through the artifices of his son Sextus. Hadrian's Villa, on the slopes of Tivoli, once covered an area of several square miles. Its mag- nificent grounds unequalled in the Roman Em- pire, were designed by Hadrian to combine models of all that had most pleased him during his travels ; accordingly they comprised palaces, temples, theatres, circuses, and many of the finest specimens of statuary. This mundane paradise AROUND THE WORLD. was destroyed by the Goths in the 6th century, and many of the finest of the antique statues were uncovered from beneath these ruins. CHAPTER XVIII. NAPLES : VESUVIUS : HERCULANEUM : POMPEII : CAS- TELLAMARE : SORRENTO : CAPRI : CASERTA : BRIN- DISI. NAPLES, which was founded by a Greek colony 1 ,000 years B. C., has 450,000 inhabitants, and though prettily situated on the curves of the bay which bears the same name, is not so fascinating that one would wish to "see Naples and die." Approaching from the sea, the city at a distance, stretching lazily down to the blue waters, with the old fortress of St. Elmo towering in the back- ground and mighty Vesuvius standing sentinel, as it has stood since the beginning of time, is ex- tremely picturesque, but on closer view the pleas- ing illusion is dispelled. The streets, with few exceptions, are narrow and filthy ; the houses are of several stories and swarming with occupants many families huddled under one roof poor, ragged, and uncleanly. The Neapolitans as a class are apparently de- void of feeling, as is evidenced by their cruelty to 218 A TOUR their beasts of burden ; a characteristic feature being their country wagons loaded with from twenty to thirty people and drawn by one poor, staggering animal. A strange sight witnessed on the streets of Naples is a funeral procession. The coffin the corpse often exposed to view is borne on an open bier by monks of the order of Misericorde concealed underneath the velvet pall, while pre- ceding and following it are others bearing lighted candles, and completely enveloped in white gar- ments in which are small openings for the eyes. This city is celebrated for its manufacture of corals, shell, and maccaroni ; the latter is a favor- ite article of diet with the lazzaroni who may be seen swallowing it by the yard, as they lounge about the streets. The fashionable drive extends for several miles along the bay, and is bordered on one side by the National Park ; here large crowds congregate in the cool of the evening to admire the views and enjoy the refreshing breeze from the sea. In Naples are the fine marble statue of Dante, and the equestrian figures, in bronze, of Charles III. and of Ferdinand I. The Royal Palace is of no special interest, but adjoining it is the Theatre of San Carlo, at the entrance of which are the bronze horses pre- sented by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia. AROUND THE WORLD. 219 The Castle of St. Elmo is built on a high hill overlooking the city. It was erected by Robert the Wise in 1343, and its numerous historic remin- iscences of love and daring render it an object of interest to the romantically inclined. The Cathedral is supposed to occupy the site of the Temple of Apollo, and contains the tombs of Charles I. of Anjou, and of Charles Martel and his wife Clementina of Hapsburg. The Grotto of Posilippo is an old Roman tun- nel 750 yards long and 60 feet high, on the road between Naples and Puteoli. Over the entrance of this tunnel is the tomb of Virgil a chamber containing IO niches for cinerary urns, that of Virgil having once, it is said, occupied the centre of the sepulchre. The National Museum of Naples is interesting and extensive, comprising large collections of paintings, mosaics, statues, frescoes, and inscrip- tions, many of which were found in the excava- tions made in Herculaneum and Pompeii. Here are the Farnese Bull, considered one of the finest groups of ancient art ; the Psyche of Capua which inspired Bulwer's conception of lone ; the Dancing Faun ; a mosaic pavement bearing the figure of a dog, from the house of Glaucus; shop- signs from Pompeii ; and the marble pillar, which stood in its forum, upon which is a bronze plate that once served as a bulletin board ; also the re- mains of fruit, milk, loaves of bread, a variety of 22O A TOUR household utensils, and a Roman calendar on a square block of marble, each side embracing the period of three months. Taking a conveyance with three horses, from Naples we drove a distance of 6 miles to Hercu- laneum. This town, which with Pompeii was overwhelmed by an eruption of Vesuvius, unlike the latter was buried under lava, to the depth of 80 feet, which in cooling acquired the consistency of stone, rendering excavations virtually imprac- ticable ; so far the principal building unearthed is the theatre which once seated 10,000 people. From Herculaneum we commenced the ascent of Vesuvius, the road winding for five miles up the mountain in the midst of a vast stretch of lava in its various stages of induration. At the foot of the cone a chain-railway ascends almost perpen- dicularly a distance of one mile ; from here we were borne in chairs on the shoulders of excited Neapolitans to the crater. At this point the ground was a mass of steaming, yellow sulphur ; sulphurous clouds, with their asphyxiating fumes, hovered around, wavering and dispersing here and there before the violence of the ascending flame. Up from the seething cauldron of the crater, red- hot stones and liquid lava were thrown with incredible force high in air ; and far below, from the very bowels of the earth, issued low, rumbling, ominous sounds, all uniting in one vivid concep- tion of hell. AROUND THE WORLD. 221 Pompeii, which contained 40,000 inhabitants, was overwhelmed A. D. 79, by an eruption of Vesuvius, and remained buried under the ashes for 1,700 years. Walking through this dead city, its silent streets, which are well paved, though worn in deep ruts by the wheels of chariots, its sidewalks bordered with straight lines of houses and shops in a surprising state of preservation, one almost expects to meet the inhabitants at every turn. Here are public buildings the Forum with its temples and basilicas; theatres for tragedy and comedy ; shops, with their fixtures and utensils; baths, fountains, the Temple of Isis, houses of pleasure with the frescoes still visible upon their walls; private residences from the cot- tage of the poor to the mansion of the patrician, including those of Arbaces the Egyptian, Glaucus the tragic poet, lone, and Sallust, and the Villa of Diomedes the wealthy, an edifice twelve stories in height, in whose cellars 17 human bodies were found in various attitudes showing their efforts to escape. Leading from the Herculaneum Gate is the Street of Tombs lined on either side by sepul- chral monuments. Castellamare occupies the site of Stabia, which was destroyed by an earthquake A. D. 79 : from here we witnessed the strange and fearful sight of a river of red-hot lava rolling slowly down the sides of Vesuvius. 222 A TOUR The drive from here to Sorrento is a delightful one, skirting the blue shores of the bay, winding along the base of the mountains, crossing ravines and passing picturesque villages. Sorrento, with a fine view of Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples, is celebrated as the birthplace of Tasso 1544- Here the Tarantella is danced in all its original grace and vivacity by the peasants in their picturesque costumes. The Island of Capri, ten miles from Sorrento, is 1980 feet above the level of the sea, and is chiefly noted for its Blue Grotto. This is an in- terior space 160x80 feet in extent, and 40 feet in height above the water, which is 8 fathoms deep. It is entered by an aperture only three feet high ingress being impossible during high tide and the visitor is compelled to recline in the boat as it passes tinder the low portal. The Grotto is lighted only from the opening, and the reflection from the deep-blue water gives a weird and indes- cribable effect to the scene. Brindisi, once the great seaport town of the Romans on the Adriatic, is the terminus of the Via Appia, and is noted as the place where Caesar beseiged Pompey, and where Virgil died 19 B. C. Taking steamer of the Peninsular and Oriental Line, at Brindisi, we skirted the shores of Albania and Greece, passing the islands of Corfu, Kepha- lonia, and Crete, arriving, after a three days' sail, on the coast of Africa AROUND THE WORLD. 223 CHAPTER XIX. ALEXANDRIA : CAIRO I HELIOPOLIS I PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH : THE NILE I TEL-EL-KEBIR : PORT SAID. ALEXANDRIA, situated on a peninsula between Lake Mareotis and the sea, was founded by Alex- ander the Great, 332 B. C. It was once celebrated for its library of 700,000 volumes, which was established by Ptolemy Philadelphus, 284 B. C., and partly destroyed by Julius Caesar ; also for its lighthouse Pharos, the seventh wonder of the world. It was in Alexandria the Christian religion first took root, and here St. Mark preached the Gospel. One of the few relics of antiquity yet remain- ing is Pompey's Pillar a red granite column 100 feet high, on which is a Greek inscription showing that it was erected by Publius, prefect of Egypt, in honor of Diocletian who besieged and took Alexandria, 296 A. D. Its population numbered at one time 500,000, but the present census shows only 212,000 inhabi- tants. The city has many fine streets and build- ings, but the heart of it is in ruins, having been burned by Arabi's soldiers on evacuating, and the 224 A TOUR fortifications surrounding the city were dismantled by the English in the late bombardment. The rail from Alexandria to Cairo a distance of 131 miles runs parallel with the canal and wagon road, and affords scenes of varied interest: here groups of natives scantily clothed ; there caravans laden with merchandise ; and frequently an immense camel, a buffalo, and a tiny donkey yoked together to a primitive wooden plough, or employed turning a sakieh a wheel upon which are fastened earthen jugs to dip up water for irrigating purposes. Again at short distances is seen the shadoof, a long pole balanced on an up- right one, at one end of which is a weight, and on the other a vessel which is lowered into the water and raised filled ; and a still more primitive mode of irrigation is that of men dipping up the water in mat baskets and pouring it over the earth, while others direct its course with their bare feet, as described in the Bible. Cairo, founded by the Arabs, is situated near the right bank of the Nile, and has a population of 350,000. It is the largest city in Africa, and the residence of the Khedive, and next to Con- stantinople the most important city of the Mo- hammedan world. Cairo is built on low ground, partly surrounded by low, rugged, and barren hills. Many of its streets are wide, well paved, and bordered with tropical trees, and its hundreds of mosques and AROUND THE WORLD. 225 minarets viewed from an eminence, combine to make a picture of Oriental beauty : but the pas- sage-ways of the older, native portion of the city are narrow, dirty, and crowded, and it is both dif- ficult and disagreeable to thread one's way through its swarms of debased humanity. On the streets of Cairo one sees Oriental life in its native aspect ; the various sects and ranks arrayed in their distinctive garbs, the ladies of the harems attended by the inevitable black eunuchs richly dressed and be-jewelled, with thin gauze covering their faces below the eyes, and their finger-nails stained with the red henna; the fat Turk astride a small donkey whose deafening bray protests, to the extent of its no small ability, against the thickly falling blows of the urchin who follows on behind for that purpose ; hundreds of camels moaning under their heavy loads; the water-carriers selling water from their dirty goat- skins ; the oil dealers with their primitive jars, recalling so vividly the story of the Forty Thieves ; and the grand official in his equipage before which run two bare-legged Arabs in gold- embroidered jackets, loose white trousers, and red fez, with long sticks in their hands, shouting, in loud tones, a command to clear the way for the high and mighty Somebody ; all of which gives a suggestion of out-door life at Cairo, and recalls at every turn vivid scenes from the Arabian Nights. 15 226 A TOUR The people as a class, are filthy, ignorant, and mendicant, and owing to the combined influences of indolence and cowardice, the men mutilate themselves in order to avoid being drafted into the army. The turban is held in high favor by the Egyptian, especially by the fellahs : it con- sists of a light, white material wound around the fez, and is always of sufficient length to be con- verted into a shroud. The women are partial to jewelry, often wearing rings in their noses. They carry their infants astride their left shoulder or hip, and the children, not being allowed to brush the flies from their faces owing to some religious prejudice, are consequently generally blind or sore- The bazaars occupy several squares of the nar- rowest streets which are roofed over with straw mats and palm-leaves effectually excluding the glare and heat of the sun. The shops are two feet above the level of the street, and are from five to ten feet square, each one having its own specialty, and the aggregate presenting an array of almost every commodity desired. The Citadel stands on a high hill, and com- mands a fine view of the city. It is surrounded by a wall, and in its inclosure is the palace of the pasha, and the magnificent mosque of Mohammed AH, built of Oriental alabaster, and the finest in Egypt. Within the citadel is Joseph's Well a square shaft 15 feet across and 280 deep cut in AROUND THE WORLD. 22/ the solid rock, at the bottom of which donkeys are kept at work forcing the water to the top. This well is supposed to be the work of the ancient Egyptians and was discovered by the Sultan Saladin while erecting the citadel, who called it Yusef or Joseph after himself. It was from the outer wall of this citadel that occurred the memorable leap of the mameluke Emin Bey, who being entrapped, with 300 of his comrades, by Mohammed Ali, and seeing them all perish before his eyes, urged his horse over the precipice to the frightful depths below, and thus effected his escape. The Mosque of Sultan Hassan is considered the finest existing specimen of Arabian architec- ture, and its high dome and lofty minarets present a majestic appearance. It is said the Sultan was so much pleased with its construction that he caused the hands of the architect to be cut off to prevent him from designing another like it. The Mosque of Tayloon, the most ancient in Cairo, is partly in ruins and according to one legend occupies the spot where Abraham sacri- ficed the goat in place of his son Isaac, and is called Kal-at-el-Rebsh or Castle of the Goat. Another legend points out this spot as being the place where Noah's ark ran aground on the loth of Moharrem which is the first month of the Arabian year, and observed as a great festival in this country. 228 A TOUR The Palace of Shoobra, in whose court there is a small lake around which are ranged divans where the Sultan and his suite were wont to lounge, sipping their coffee and smoking their nargileh, was the summer residence of Mohammed Ali. It is four miles beyond the city precincts, and is reached by a beautiful avenue shaded on either side by the flowering acacia. This is the favorite drive of the people of Cairo, and on a Sunday af- ternoon the Khedive may be seen there in royal state, escorted by a mounted guard. The tombs of the Mamelukes and Caliphs at the foot of the citadel resemble miniature mos- ques, and are not only picturesque in appearance but are interesting from their historic associa- tions. Old Cairo, which is a short distance from the new city, and now almost a mass of ruins, is built on the site of new Babylon, which was founded by the Babylonians in the year 525 B. C. The Jewish Synagogue is claimed by the Jews to have been the place where Elijah once ap- peared, and where Moses prayed for the cessation of the seventh plague of lightning and hail. In a niche, within this edifice, guarded with jealous care is a scroll of the Thorah said to be written by the hand of Ezra. The old Coptic Church contains some very ancient pictures, and carvings in wood and ivory, and is built over a subterranean cave in which AROUND THE WORLD. 22Q Joseph and Mary with the Infant Jesus dwelt for a time on reaching Egypt after the Flight. The Boolak Museum has the finest collection of Egyptian antiquities in the world, comprising sarcophagi, mummies, hieroglyphics, statues, sphinxes, ornaments and other relics found in the tombs and temples of the ancient Egyptians. Among the objects most noted are the mummy of Rameses II. supposed to be the Pharaoh of the Exodus, and the Village Sheik a wooden statue said to be thousands of years old. In a granite sarcophagus lie the remains of Mariette Bey, who devoted his life to unearthing these relics. The island of Rhodda is in the Nile, directly opposite ancient Cairo, and contains the Nilo- m eter a graduated stone pillar 40 feet high, covered with measures indicating the rise and fall of the river, and is placed in a well some 20 feet square, and 50 deep. The minimum tide of the river is 32 feet; 40 feet is considered the desirable medium ; and the maximum of 42 entails incal- culable destruction. In August when the Nile is sufficiently high for irrigating purposes, the embankment of the river is cut, and the ceremony attended with great rejoicing and festivities. On the upper end of the island of Rhodda is located the spot where Moses was found in the bulrushes by Pharaoh's daughter. The Howling Dervishes comprise a religious sect who meet in their temple every Friday the 230 A TOUR Mohammedan Sabbath for the celebration of their religious rites. Forming a circle around the priest, they frantically sway their bodies back and forth to the frightful accompaniment of their howls and wails, and the beating of tabors, a species of drum. Many of these are old men, half-clad, with long white hair waving with the motion of their swaying bodies. The Kieswah is a Holy Carpet which Cairo sends to the Kaaba at Mecca, once a year. This is conveyed on th'e back of a camel, and escorted by thousands of pilgrims; who, on their return, deeming themselves prepared to die, prostrate themselves on the ground, to be trampled under foot by a horse ridden by the Sheik ; and blessed is the man whose injuries are the most severe. The ancient city of Heliopolis an hour's drive from Cairo, is marked only by a single obelisk of red granite, 70 feet in height, supposed to be the oldest extant. Near this are the Tree and Well of the Virgin, where the Holy Family first rested after their Flight into Egypt. In this neighborhood grew the celebrated Balsam shrub, the balm of which is said to have been presented to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba. The Pyramids of Gizeh, a drive of an hour and a half from Cairo, are nine in number, and surrounded by ruins of temples and tombs partly buried beneath the sands of centuries. These AROUND THE WORLD. 231 monuments, which are supposed to be the tombs of early Egyptian kings, are built of enormous stone blocks, and were originally covered with white marble casings. Of this number three are of immense proportions, the largest being classed among the seven wonders of the world. Cheops, the largest of these pyramids is 820 feet across its base on each of its four sides ; and 470 feet in height, not including 15 feet already lost from the apex, which leaves a flat surface of 1 20 square yards. The interior is entered by a small opening 48 feet from the ground ; first through a long descending inclined passage of polished granite at an angle of 26 degrees which afterwards ascends as abruptly, and leads to the King's Chamber. This room is the largest in the pyramid, being 19 feet high, 17 wide, and 34 long; and is of polished granite. In it is a stone sarcophagus which is supposed to have contained the mummy of a king, or ancient records. On each side of this room are air-tubes for purposes of ventilation ; and above it are five small cham- bers difficult of access. At the end of the Great Hall which is 155 feet long and 28 high, is a pas- sage leading to the Queen's Chamber ; and a shaft 150 feet deep, known as the well, which descends to the lower passage, and connects with a sub- terranean chamber. The difficult ascent of this pyramid we accomplished with the aid of four Bedouin Arabs, each; one at each hand, above, 232 A TOUR to pull, and two others below, to push. The descent was scarcely less perilous : with a strong rope about our waists, held by one of our Bed- ouins while the others lent support, we jumped from block to block, scarcely daring to look be- low, lest a misstep should hurl us into Eternity. An exploration of the interior of the pyramid though attended by less danger, is accompanied by a far greater degree of discomfort, owing to the foul air, heat, and darkness. While many scientists believe these to have been constructed as mausolea for the Pharaohs, others contend they were built before the flood, for astronomical purposes, or as receptacles for historical archives. These gigantic structures will yet, in all probability yield up to the world the secrets of past ages, for in exploring Cheops soundings in its interior developed the fact of the existence of chambers yet unrevealed. The Sphinx, the oldest and most famous monument in the world, supposed to have existed 2,000 years before the pyramids, is the recumbent form of a lion with the head of a man hewn from the natural lime stone rock. It measures 128 feet in length; 66 feet from the paws to the crown of the head; the ears are 4^ feet long; the nose 5 feet 7 inches ; the mouth 7 feet 7 inches in width ; and the extreme breadth of face 13 feet 8 inches. Investigation developed the existence of two wells within the body partially filled in with sand, AROUND THE WORLD. 233 and from the top of the head a shaft descending a depth of six feet in which the priests probably concealed themselves in order to work upon the superstitious fears of the credulous with mys- terious and oracular enunciations. The Sphinx was the deity of the ancient Egyptians ; and offerings were made before an altar between its paws ; the smoke of their sacri- ficial fires issuing from its nostrils. This silent figure, defying time, immovable as the fixed stars ; enthroned amid these desert wastes for thousands of years, has witnessed the rise and fall of na- tions; mighty cities springing from nothingness, wielding their powerful sceptres, and descending into the abyss of oblivion ; has gazed undaunted into the face of Osiris, the Sun-king, and looked down upon the countless myriads of grovelling humanity who have passed away forever. The Temple of the Sphinx and a mausoleum recently discovered by Campbell the explorer, lie near by, buried to the depth of 100 feet in the sand ; and surrounding them on all sides are partially exhumed tombs and temples. Leaving Cairo by boat for a three weeks' trip up the Nile, we made our first landing at Badra- chin, and mounting donkeys set out to visit the ruins of the far-famed ancient city of Memphis, once the capital of Lower Egypt and one of the greatest cities of antiquity. These ruins retain but few vestiges of past grandeur ; the most con- 234 A TOUR spicuous object of interest being the Serapeum the tomb of the sacred Bulls Apis which contains 24 gigantic sarcophagi, of granite and black marble, each 1 1 feet high and 1 8 feet long, highly polished and inscribed with hiero- glyphics. Above this tomb once stood the temple in which the sacred bulls were worshipped. The Egyptians believed that the soul of Osiris, after his death, became incarnated in the body of a bull, born of a virgin cow, which they called Apis ; this animal was distinguished by certain marks required also in his successors ; these con- sisted of a triangular white spot on the forehead, the figure of an eagle on the back, a white cres- cent on the right side, and a sacred scarabaeus or beetle under the tongue. To the god Apis were assigned a temple, two chapels, and a court for exercise, and his food was served in vessels of gold. On attaining the age of 25 years he was drowned by the priests in the sacred cistern ; and his body carefully embalmed and placed in one of the sarcophagi in the Serapeum, when the whole country was thrown into mourning until a suc- cessor had been announced. Among the other ruins of Memphis are immense prostrate stone figures of Rameses II. and those of his wife and daughter, the pyramids of Sakkara, and the tombs of Onas and Ti. Returning to the Nile we sailed past the False Pyramid, the villages of Wasta and Fesh- AROUND THE WORLD. 235 neh, and the mountain Gebel-el-Dayr, on the summit of which stands a Coptic convent, and landed at Minieh which contains a fine palace, and the extensive sugar factory belonging to the Khedive. Further up the river are the tombs of Beni- Hassan, chambers cut in the solid rock far up the hill, and supposed to be the oldest tombs of the kind in Egypt. These are ornamented with figures of animals, fish, and birds, and designs representing the life and customs of ancient times, in all of which the imperishable red and blue are almost as distinct as when painted thousands of years ago. One tomb is dedicated to Pasht the Egyptian Diana ; in another is the Grecian Doric column unique in Egypt; and beneath all are pits where numerous mummies were found. A few miles beyond are the ruins of Antino- opolis a city built by the Emperor Hadrian to commemorate the death of his beautiful favorite Antinous who drowned himself in the Nile ; and along the river for twelve miles are the celebrated Crocodile mummy-pits, cut in the rock of Mount Gebel-abou-faydah. Assioot, the metropolis of Upper Egypt stands on the site of ancient Lycopolis or city of wolves, a place noted for the worship of these animals. It is the terminus of the railway from Cairo ; is the residence of a pasha, has a fine palace, mosque and bazaar, and was once the principal slave 236 A TOUR market in Egypt. From the mountain in the rear of the town is a fine view of the valley of the Nile, and numberless tombs extend under the hill below. The ruins of Abydos are situated six miles back of Girgeh at the base of the Libyan mountains. They at one time ranked next to those of Thebes, and owed their importance to the fact that the god Osiris was buried here ; and wealthy Egyptians from all parts of the country desired to have their bodies lie in the sacred dust which their god had hallowed. The prin- cipal ruins yet remaining are the Temple of Setee I., the Temple of Rameses II., and the Necropolis. Here, in the Temple of Osiris, the Tablet of Abydos or list of Pharaohs was found, which is now one of the most valuable objects in the British Museum. Keneh is a place of considerable importance ; chiefly noted for its porous jugs, and dates. From here we made an excursion across the river to the Temple of Denderah, one of the finest and best preserved on the Nile, dedicated to the god- dess Hathor the Egyptian Venus; the ceil- ing which is carved with the signs of the zodiac, is supported by 24 massive pillars with beautiful capitals ; the outer wall has the cartouch and figure of Cleopatra with that of her son the young Caesarion by Julius Caesar ; while on the portico, erected by the Emperor Tiberius, is the AROUND THE WORLD. 237 name of that monarch with those of Claudius, Nero, Caligula, Caesar and Ptolemy. Luxor, a place of debarkation, is a small Arab village on the site, and in the midst of one of the finest ruins of Thebes. It was here at the Consul's house we witnessed the Egyptian Nautch or muscle dance, rendered by the native women to perfection. Thebes extended for seven miles on both sides of the river. It was the most celebrated and the most magnificent of all the ancient cap- itals of Egypt, and was the capital of the king- dom of the Pharaohs when in the zenith of their power. Looking upon these ruins of a long past grandeur these palaces, temples, and tombs of extinct races, one gathers a faint conception of the customs and habits of its people. The Temple of Luxor 800 feet long by 200 broad, has yet many magnificent columns stand- ing, and at the main entrance are three colossal statues of kings. In front of these once stood two granite obelisks ; one of which was presented to Louis Philippe, and now stands in the Place de la Concorde, Paris ; while the one remaining, bears less evidence of the ravages of time than any other in the world. The ruins of Karnak a portion of Thebes comprise a vast collection of palaces, temples, obelisks, and columns from 80 to 100 feet high, and avenues of sphinxes surpassing in grandeur and extent all other ruins on the Nile. 238 A TOUR On the opposite side of the river, extending back eight miles, and strewing the plain where once stood the western portion of Thebes, yet re- main the ruins of the temples of Medeenet Haboo, Koorneh, and the palace-temple Memnonium or Rameseum. Near the latter is the prostrate colossal figure of Rameses II., weighing 1,000 tons and measuring 63 feet around the shoulders, the largest statue ever hewn from a solid block of granite. This king, supposed to be the Pharaoh of the Exodus, after having conquered the then known world, in order to perpetuate his memory, built the Rameseum as a lasting memorial of his greatness and glory. The Colossi are two sitting figures in stone, 60 feet high, well preserved, and in all probability, statues of Amenophis II. or III., and once guarded here the entrance of the Temple-palace of this Pharaoh, " who knew not Joseph." One of these known as the vocal Memnon was celebrated for the musical sounds said to issue from the statue when touched by the first rays of the morning sun ; and the religious and poetic version is that it represents Memnon, a king of Egypt, who was killed by Achilles at the siege of Troy, and the dew-drops which appear in the morning are the tears which Aurora sheds for her son. In a desolate valley in the heart of the Libyan Mountains are situated the Tombs of the Kings excavated in the solid rock, some of which are 470 AROUND THE WORLD. 239 feet deep, and extend for half a mile into the mountain, the walls and ceilings being decorated with carvings and paintings representing every phase of Egyptian life. The finest of these are the tomb of Setee L, father of Rameses II. , in which was found a beautiful alabaster sar- cophagus ; the tomb of Rameses III. in which are the paintings of the famous harpists ; those of Rameses IV., Rameses VI., and Rameses IX., and that of the rich priest Assef: while others contained the mummified bodies of animals of various kinds. , Returning to Luxor, where our steamer was awaiting us, after an exploring tour which occu- pied three days, we continued up the river to Esna. Here is a palace of Mohammed Ali, and in the centre of the town the portico of the Temple of Keneph with its 24 columns 19 feet in circumfer- ence and 65 feet in height, whose capitals repre- sent the doum palm, the vine, and the papyrus. Of the temple which is entirely covered up, this portion alone has been excavated, and is one of the most beautiful and well preserved on the Nile. Edfoo is the next place of importance reached, and its temple one of the grandest monuments of Egypt. Its entire length is 440x200 feet ; it was built by Ptolomaeus Philometer, 180 B. C. and was dedicated to the god Horhat, and to Athor, his mother, the Egyptian Venus. In one cham- 240 A TOUR her, beautifully ornamented with carvings, is a grey granite monolith in which was kept the sacred hawk. At Gebel Silsileh are the quarries from which the ancient kings of Egypt procured the stones for erecting the mammoth structures at Luxor, Kar- nak, and Medeenet Haboo ; and here where the river is very narrow, a chain was thrown across by an ancient king to arrest navigation. The Temple of Kom Omboo, 1 8 miles further up, is fast going to decay and falling into the river. It comprises two temples, one dedicated to Light and the other to Darkness, the latter conse- crated to the crocodile god Sebek ; the tank is still to be seen where the sacred crocodile bathed, and the brick terrace where he sunned himself. Besides this animal, cats, wolves, and birds were worshipped by the ancient Egyptians, as is proved by the numbers found mummified in the surround- ing caves. Asswan is the border town between Egypt and Nubia, and the terminus of navigation for the large Nile steamers. In its bazaars are to be pur- chased the skins of serpents and wild beasts, ele- phants' tusks, ostrich eggs and plumes, and various other articles peculiar to the country. Here the Nubian, black as night, first makes his appearance, his naked body shining with oil, and hair grotesquely arranged. The wardrobe of many of the women consists of but a leathern AROUND THE WORLD 24! girdle fringed out and ornamented with shells, while their kinky hair is worn plaited in multitu- dinous small braids. The childrens' attire is of an even more primitive description a ring in the right nostril, and three or four in each ear, to complete which elaborate costume a cord is some- times worn around the waist. The Nubians, as a race, are less corrupt than the Egyptians, and decidedly more dignified, frank and cheerful. In the river opposite Asswan is the island of Elephantine, where there are ruins of temples and statues, and also of a Nilometer. In the mountains beyond are the famous granite quarries from which were wrought the colossal statue of Rameses, and the obelisks now at Heliopolis, Alexandria, Constantinople, Paris, London, and New York. A monolith 100 feet long and twelve feet square at the base is still here, never having been removed from the quarry, and like its mates is of a light red color sprinkled with green, very hard and susceptible of the high- est polish. The great problem to the inquiring mind is the means used by the ancients in cutting into this adamantine material; from a thorough ex- amination and from the numbers of partly-hewn blocks abandoned on account of the rock having split in a contrary direction, it is reasonable to suppose that holes were cut in line, plugged with wood and soaked with water which, expanding 16 242 A TOUR these wedges, divided the rock and accomplished with long and tedious labor the work which modern machinery achieves with so much ease. The first Nile cataract, seven miles above Asswan, is a series of rapids down which the Nubian boys float or shoot on logs, to amuse spectators, after which they vociferously demand b&ckskecsk a gift of money. The Island of Philae in Nubia, above the first cataract, is by far the most picturesque spot on the Nile. It is surrounded by wild and rocky scenery, while the island itself is covered with rich verdure, -and groves of palm and acacia, in- termingle with beautiful ruins. These consist of the Temple of Isis, Pharaoh's Bed, formerly the Temple of Osiris, and the Temple of Athor. Philae was the last stronghold of the Egyptian faith, and here Osiris, Isis, and Horus were worshipped 60 years after the Egyptian religion was abolished by Theodosius. This was the terminus of our trip up the Nile, and from here we turned our faces towards Cairo and lazily floated down the river. The rail from Cairo to Port Said, a distance of 150 miles, follows the Sweetwater canal which supplies the stations, and towns on the Suez canal with drinking-water, and runs through that Land of Goshen so fertile in olden times, but now a barren and sandy desert. The principal places of importance passed are Belbeis and Bordein, AROUND THE WORLD. 243 near the latter of which are the remains of the ancient city of Bubastis in the Coptic language Pi-Beseth the city of which Ezekiel prophesied that it should go into captivity, and its young men fall by the sword. Tel-el-Kebir passed en route, is a dirty Arab village of no importance, but rendered notable as the scene of the decisive battle of the recent Egyptian war fought on September I3th, 1882, when Arabi was vanquished by the English, and his army of 30,000 men destroyed and taken prisoners. In taking steamer from Port Said to cross the Mediterranean for a sixteen hours' sail to Jaffa, we left with regret this ancient and interesting coun- try strewn with colossal ruins which speak so plainly of a past and powerful nation ; for, to see the palaces and monuments of Egypt is to see the Egyptians as they lived and moved before the eyes of Abraham and Moses, to see the temples and tombs of Egypt is to see the Egyptians in the most solemn moments of their lives. 244 A TOUR CHAPTER XX. JAFFA : LATROON : JERUSALEM : SOLOMON'S POOLS I HEBRON : BETHLEHEM : MAR SABA : THE DEAD SEA : RIVER JORDAN : JERICHO. PALESTINE is a long strip of land bordering the Mediterranean, and is bounded on the east by the river Jordan. It is nowhere over 50 miles in breadth, and from Dan to Beersheba 180 miles in length. The country is hilly and mountain- ous, and with the exception of a few green val- leys is rocky and barren. Only from Jaffa to Jerusalem, and Baalbec to Beyrout, are wheels available, and what here are called roads are sim- ply rocky paths which only a sure-footed horse and experienced rider can travel. This is the ancient Canaan or Palestine, so called by the Israelites who were expelled thence, three tribes of which, Reuben, Gad, and Man- nasseh having territory assigned to them east of the Jordan. In the time of Moses they num- bered over 2,000,000, but the present population is probably only 700,000, who are mostly Arabs, Turks, Mohammedans, Druses, Jews, Armenians, Greeks, Syrians, and Latins. Jaffa, the ancient Joppa, has a population of AROUND THE WORLD. 245 8,OOO, and tradition says was first founded by Japhet, son of Noah. It is the principal seaport town of Palestine, and has the worst harbor in the world; the rugged and projecting rocks rendering a landing dangerous at all times and impossible in stormy weather. Here Andromeda was chained to the rock un- til rescued by Perseus from the devouring mon- ster; here Noah built his ark, and Jonah em- barked for Tarshish instead of going by Divine command to Nineveh, and on which voy- age he was swallowed by the whale : here Solo- mon received the cedars of Lebanon from Hiram, king of Tyre for building his temple, and here Peter recalled Tabitha to life (Acts, IX. 36-41). Here also is the house of "one Simon the tanner," where Peter on the house-top saw the vision of animals let down in a sheet from heaven (Acts, X. 5-16). Jaffa was taken by Napoleon in 1799 after an obstinate and bloody siege, and it is said that previous to his retreat across the desert he caused 1,200 Turkish prisoners to be cruelly put to death. At Jaffa we made a contract for a tour of 30 days or more through Palestine and Syria, and selected three tents, a dragoman (Antonio Mac- louf), a cook, waiter, and six muleteers, besides 3 good riding-horses and seven mules for transpor- tation. 246 A TOUR From Jaffa to Jerusalem we passed en route Lydda, in the plain of Sharon where St. George killed the Dragon ; Ramleh with its ancient tower, where were buried 40 Christian martyrs, and where we first met victims of that scourge of the East leprosy, in the various stages of the loathsome disease: the locality where Samson caught his 300 foxes and tied brands to their tails to burn his enemies' grain fields, and stopped for the night at Latroon in the valley of Ajalon, where Joshua commanded the sun and moon to stand still (Joshua, X. 12). Next day we visited the village near by, where the penitent thief was born, and the cave where the two thieves lived while committing their rob- beries, and entered into the land of the tribe of Benjamin, passed Kirjathjearim, Job's Well, the site of the house of Abinadab, where the Ark of the Covenant was kept (I. Samuel, VII. 12), the town of Ain-Karim, where St. John the Baptist was born, and where the Virgin visited her cousin Elizabeth (Luke, I. 39-60) ; the site of Emmaus, where Christ appeared to Cleopas (Luke, XXIV. 13-31); looked upon the two hills where the army of Saul and that of the Phil- istines confronted each other ; and picked up a pebble from the stream which flows between, at the identical place where tradition says David selected the stone with which he killed the giant Goliath. AROUND THE WORLD. 247 After passing the site of ancient Gezer, which one of the Pharaohs of Egypt took from the Canaanites and gave to his daughter the wife of Solomon (I. Kings, IX. 16), we saw the moun- tains of Moab in the distance, and those " round about Jerusalem ;" and riding through the Valley of Gihon, in which Solomon was anointed king over Israel, we entered the Holy City through the Jaffa Gate. Jerusalem which is called, even by the Mo- hammedans, the Blessed City, is situated on a sloping hill surrounded by a stone wall 3 miles in circumference, which is 40 feet high and some 3 feet in thickness. It has 34 towers, and is entered by 7 gates that of Damascus on the north, of St. Stephen on the east, Jaffa on the west, and Zion and Dung on the south; the latter being low and crooked, was anciently called the Needle's Eye, hence the saying: " It is harder for the rich man to enter the kingdom of Heaven, than for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle," while Herod's and the Golden Gate, have long since been walled up. Jerusalem has a population of 36,000 inhabitants, one-third of which is Moham- medan, one-third Jew, and the remainder Copt, Assyrian, Persian, Syrian, Greek, and Latin. The streets, some of which are arched over, are narrow and filthy, and the houses and shops shabby and neglected. This is Jerusalem the Golden, the city that men call the perfection of 248 A TOUR beauty, which apart from its historical as- sociation appears not worth possessing, even with- out the trouble of conquest. On the high ground to the north overlooking Jerusalem is the point from which Titus made his attack ; here is the grotto where Jeremiah wrote his lamentations; and the tombs of the kings and judges : these are many in number, cut in the solid rock, their entrances being closed by means of large round stones which fitted into grooves and required great strength to remove. On the west is the Valley of Hinnon, with the upper and lower pools of Gihon. On the south in the valley is the Fountain of the Virgin, and the Pool of Siloam ; beyond, is the Hill of Scandal where King Solomon had his immense harem, and the Potter's Field or Field of Blood, where Judas after betraying Jesus went and hanged himself: and in a cave close by, the apostles concealed themselves during Christ's imprisonment and crucifixion. On the east rises the Mount of Olives from the sutrmiit of which Christ ascended to Heaven, and close by is the cave in which He taught His dis- ciples the Lord's Prayer. At the base of this mountain is the Tomb of the Virgin, with her husband Joseph, and those of her father and mother, Joachim and Anna. Near the spot where St. Stephen was stoned to death, is the Garden of Gethsemane, where AROUND THE WORLD. 249 Judas betrayed Christ with a kiss, and close by the Grotto of the Agony, where the Saviour en- dured his agony and bloody sweat. Between Jerusalem and the Mount of Olives lies the Valley of Jehoshaphat, through which flows the brook Kedron ; and here among thous- ands of Jewish tombs are those of St. James, Jehoshaphat, Zachariah, and Absalom, cut in the rock, the latter being ornamented with Doric columns, and partially buried beneath small stones thrown by the Jews in token of contempt for his conduct. Mount Zion on which a portion of Jerusalem is built is a large hill, and on it, just outside of the Zion Gate, is the tomb of David over which the Mohammedans have erected a small mosque : here in the house of the High-Priest Caiaphas is the room said to have been the scene of the Last Sup- per ; on this mount is also the spot where Christ appeared to his Apostles after the resurrection, and where the Holy Ghost descended upon them on the day of Pentecost. In an Armenian church just within the Gate of Zion, is kept the stone on which the cock crew when Peter denied his Lord ; and its altar is formed of a large circular stone 6 inches thick, and 1 5 feet in circumference, which the angel rolled away from the door of the Sepulchre. The Mosque of Omar, the Mohammedan Holy of Holies, is of octagon form, and is situated on 250 A TOUR Mount Moriah. It is on the foundation walls of the Temple of Solomon, and with its grounds covers an area 1,500 feet long by 1,000 broad. This has been considered by the Jews the most sacred ground in Jerusalem since the time of David; it was then used as threshing floors, for which he paid 50 shekels of silver. The Mosque, which is rich in gilding and glass mosaic windows, has beneath its dome the Holy Rock, 57 feet long by 43 wide, rising 6^ feet above the ground, on which consistent with Biblical authority, Abra- ham was on the point of sacrificing Isaac. On this Rock is the impression of Mohammed's foot, which he left when taking his flight from earth, also that of the angel Gabriel's hand as he restrained it from accompanying the prophet in his ascension. In a cavern beneath the Rock are preserved two hairs of Mohammed's beard, and here are shown shrines indicating the places where once prayed Abraham, Elijah, David, Jesus, and Mohammed. In the grounds inclosing the mosque is a small temple where David and Saul sat in judg- ment; and another shows where once stood Solo- mon's throne. In a subterranean passage are some of the original walls and arches of the Temple, and in another, containing 3,000 pillars, were the stables of this wise son of David. Outside the walls, where still remain some of the original stones of the Temple, is the Jews' AROUND THE WORLD. 25 1 Wailing Place, where every Friday men, women, and children of that dejected and outcast race as- semble to read their testament, to bring their written prayers, which they insert in the crevices of the wall, and with hands outstretched upon the stones worn smooth by their kisses, to weep and wail in piteous accents over the destruction of their Temple. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was built by St. Helena, mother of the Emperor Constan- tine, about the year 325 A. D, and not only covers the supposed site of Calvary but those of every incident connected with the Passion and sepulture of the Saviour. The exterior of the church is shabby and fast going to decay, while the interior, owing to the jealousy and unwillingness of either of the Christian sects to allow the other to keep the edifice in repair, presents a dingy appearance, lamps, ostrich eggs, cheap pictures and other gew- gaws being the sole ornaments of its walls and altars. In consequence of the antagonism existing among the various Christian sects, a Turkish guard of IOO soldiers is constantly on duty to keep the peace, and they are frequently bribed by one sect to persecute another. Owing to this state of affairs, each sect, except the Protestants, has a separate chapel or altar near the Holy Sepulchre, and one is not allowed to trespass upon 252 A TOUR the premises of the other. Occasionally may be seen the Greeks and Latins with their backs turned on each other holding their different forms of worship at the same time. On entering the edifice the first thing notice- able is a marble slab which covers the Stone of Unction where the body of Jesus was laid and anointed for the grave, and near it is a circular railing inclosing the spot where Mary and Martha stood during the ceremony. In the centre of the church is the rotunda directly beneath which is the Holy Sepulchre inclosed in a square temple of yellow marble, 1 5 feet high and 1 2 feet square ; this is divided into two chambers ; the first one containing the stone where the angel sat guarding the entrance to the tomb, and the other the Sep- ulchre. Surrounding this are large wax-candles, each sect providing one, and besides these are 40 gold and silver hanging-lamps presented by dif- ferent sovereigns, which are kept continually burning. On either side of this small temple are holes through which, during the Easter celebrations of the Greeks and Latins, which occur one month apart, flames are seen to issue ; attributing to this manifestation a miraculous origin, the devotees in their eagerness to secure a portion of the Holy Fire, as they consider it, rush forward frantically, trampling one another underfoot and converting this holy place into a veritable pandemonium. AROUND THE WORLD. 253 Opening from the rotunda is a cavern in the natural rock, claimed to be the tombs of Nicode- mus and of Joseph of Arimathea, where they laid the body of Jesus immediately after the cruci- fixion. Various shrines in the church indicate the spots where Christ was imprisoned, put in the stocks, and crowned with thorns, also the site and a remnant of the flagellation column, and the place where the soldiers cast lots for His vestments. A colored marble slab on the floor marks the spot where the Saviour stood when He appeared to Mary Magdelene, and a star inserted a few yards further off is where Mary received this manifestation ; besides a place shown where Jesus also appeared to His mother after His resurrection. Ascending a flight of steps to the upper part of the church is Calvary, or Golgotha the place of a skull, where are two shrines ; that of the Latins showing where Christ was nailed to the Cross, and that of the Greeks, a hole in the rock where the Cross was raised, as well as the rent made by the earthquake. A few steps below the church level is the Chapel of St. Helena, where in 350 A. D. she explored and found the True Cross. In a Greek chapel is a globe inserted in the floor, marking the centre of the earth ; close to which is the tomb of Adam, whose resting-place at the foot of Calvary is said to have been revealed by an angel. 254 . A TOUR In the Sacristy are the spurs, sword and neck- lace of Godfrey de Bouillon, and near it is his tomb and that of his brother Baldwin. On Holy Thursday we witnessed in the church of the Holy Sepulchre, the ceremony of the Washing of Feet by the Latin High-priest; in remembrance of our Saviour's washing of the feet of His twelve apostles. On Good Friday, to commemorate the last scenes of the Passion, the Latins have a life-size wax-figure of Christ which is borne through the Via Dolorosa or Way of Sorrow the proces- sion pausing at each station held sacred in His passage to the scene of the crucifixion. The Via Dolorosa commences at the Tower of Antonio where Christ first took up the cross ; then passes under the Ecce Homo arch, from which Pilate said " Behold the Man ;" past the site of the house of St. Veronica, who, witnessing the Saviour's suffering, offered Him a handkerchief upon which was left the impression of His face in blood ; and other shrines indicating, by impres- sions left upon the stone wall, the places where Christ in falling under the weight of the cross, struck His face or arm. Further on is the house of the Wandering Jew, where stopping to rest, Jesus was told by him to " move on," in reply to which, according to tradition, the Saviour said : "Move thou on likewise;" and ever since, the Jew has been moving on, permitted neither to AROUND THE WORLD. 255 rest nor die ; which legend suggested to Eugene Sue the motive for his celebrated novel. Arriving at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the procession proceeds to offer prayers at the various shrines ; after which they perform the ceremony of the crucifixion. The effigy is nailed to the cross, and lifted into position in the so- called identical hole where once stood the original cross ; when appropriate ceremonies and prayers ensue, after which the cross is lowered, the body placed on the stone of unction and anointed, and finally laid in the Sepulchre. These religious ceremonies we witnessed under the protection of our Consul, attended by his guard together'with our own ; for so great is the fanatical excitement of, the Christians, that one's very life is endangered by their demonstra- tions. From Jerusalem to Hebron, southward, a dis- tance of 20 miles over the most rocky road im- aginable, we first passed the Magician's Well where the Star of Bethlehem was reflected in the water to direct the Wise Men ; then Rachel's tomb near the village called after Benjamin (Gen. XXXV. 19), and Abraham's oak, under which his tent was pitched when he was commanded by God to sacrifice Isaac. Hebron which, next to Damascus, is the oldest city in the world, contains about 5> oo m ~ habitants; here Abraham bought from Ephron 256 A TOUR the Hittite, the cave and field of Machpelah ; and under a large Mohammedan mosque which neither Christian nor Jew is allowed to enter, lie buried Abraham and Sarah his wife ; Isaac, Rebecca and Leah ; and the Mohammedans claim Joseph also. From here, proceeding northeast, we passed the immense Pools and Gardens of Solomon, where he once had a summer palace (Ecc. II. 5-6), and went through the village of Etam where Samson was bound with cords, and after break- ing them killed 1,000 Philistines with the jaw- bone of an ass (Judges, XV). Bethlehem, the City of David, situated on the knob of a mountain, surrounded by valleys and picturesque views, is one of the prettiest and most interesting spots in Palestine. The Church of the Nativity covers the grotto stable where Christ was born ; the spot being marked by a silver star inserted in the floor. The first one placed there having been stolen, the Greeks and Latins contended for the honor of providing a substitute ; which contention afforded a pretext for the inauguration of the Crimean war. Another grotto is where the angel appeared to Joseph in a dream bidding him take the young child and its mother, and flee into Egypt ; in the Milk grotto the Holy Family took refuge ; in an- other St. Jerome lived and died ; and in still an- AROUND THE WORLD. 257 other, 2O,OOO of the Innocents were thrown after the massacre ordered by Herod. This church, built by St. Helena, is said to be the oldest in the world, and was of great mag- nificence when Baldwin was crowned here, King of Jerusalem ; the ceiling is composed of beams of cedar from the forest of Lebanon, and its walls still show traces of the golden mosaic which once adorned it. Leaving Bethlehem we passed David's Well, the water of which he so thirsted after (II. Samuel, XXIII. 15-16) ; crossed the field of Boaz where Ruth gathered the sheaves (Ruth, II), and where the shepherds watched their flocks by night (Luke, 11); stopped for lunch at the grotto where the angel appeared to the shepherds, announcing the birth of the Saviour; and camped for the night at Mar-Saba. This locality is noted for its convent cut in the solid rock, which is occupied by dirty Greek monks who are never allowed to look upon the face of a woman, and who pass their days guard- ing the tomb of their Saint Saba. Leaving camp early in the morning we rode four hours through the wilderness of Judea; passing the ruined castle where John the Baptist was beheaded, and the valley in which were the warm baths where Herod bathed for his illness, and reached the Dead Sea. This sheet of water which is 46 miles in length 17 258 A TOUR and 1 1 in breadth, is of a dark-green color and so bitter and briny that no living creature can exist in it, though birds, contrary to the general belief are frequently seen flying over it. It is situated 1,300 feet below the level of the ocean, and its specific gravity is so great that in bathing one finds it impossible to sink. The Dead Sea is inclosed by mountains not less than 2,000 feet high, and at its head is Mount Neba, while on its shores, now desolate and devoid of all life and vegetation, once stood the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah. It may not be inappropriate, although some- what anticipating events, to recount here an inci- dent of a second visit to the Dead Sea which I made alone. Mounting my thoroughbred Arab horse I was conducted by an Arab attendant to a Bedouin village an assemblage of tents where the sheik resided. Each tribe, inhabiting a certain dis- trict, is governed by a sheik, and in order to obtain permission to pass through their territory, tribute money is exacted, when they furnish an escort to the neighboring tribe, who in turn enact similar proceedings. After some deliberation and delay, the sheik furnished me a guard armed with a gun, a brace of pistols, and a sword, and mounted on a thor- oughbred mare as swift as the wind, which he rode without bridle and with such perfect control AROUND THE WORLD. 259 as to be able to turn her in an instant, to gallop her up and down almost perpendicular ascents, while he shouted at the top of his voice, waving on high his gun and sword, and often crossing blades with other Arabs whom he met. Finally reaching the shores of the sea, the question arose in my mind how I was to obtain a bath without leaving all my effects at the mercy of the Bedouin, whose manifestations such as reloading his gun, examining his ammunition, and whetting his sword were anything but reassuring. Such was my situation in the desert, alone, and twelve miles from any human being of my own race. Finally I bethought me of a ruse. As well as I could make myself understood by means of signs, I in- timated to my companion my misgivings as to the safety of the contemplated plunge : and finally after some difficulty, succeeded in persuading him to precede me into the water. Once in, I kept a position between him and the shore, in order to be master of the situation, and seizing the opportun- ity when he had swam out some distance, I step- ped out, and as quickly as possible resumed my clothing and arms. On my return trip, the Bedouin's appearance and demonstrations being anything but agreeable, I kept him in advance of me until we reached the precincts of the next tribe when I will- ingly exchanged him for another guard, con- gratulating myself for the narrow escape from 260 A TOUR the danger into which a spirit of adventure had led me. From the Dead Sea we followed the course of the river Jordan for an hour, lunching and bathing at the traditional spot where Christ was baptized by John the Baptist (Matt. III). Here the river is about 50 yards wide, quite deep and muddy, with a current running at the velocity of 8 miles an hour : the banks are low, marshy, and treacher- ous ; a fact which we well recall from the circum- stance of the partial loss of our lunch, and the narrow escape of our sumpter horse, who, poor beast, suffering from heat and thirst, ventured to the edge of the stream, and losing his foothold came near being carried away by the swift cur- rent. This is supposed to be the place where the Israelites crossed ; where Elijah divided the waters, and passing over ascended in a chariot of fire to Heaven, and where Elisha on whom the mantle of Elijah had fallen, smote the waters and again divided them. During Easter Monday after Passion Week Christian Pilgrims from all parts of the world come, mounted on horses, donkeys, and camels, to bathe in the Jordan at this spot. This motley throng composed of every sect and nationality, men, women, and children in every variety of costume, shouting and wrangling in every known language under the sun, present a most novel and AROUND THE WORLD. 261 animated scene of the cosmopolitan life of the East. Crossing the plain of the Jordan where the heat is intense, we camped at the site of ancient Jericho at the foot of the high mountain where Christ, after his forty days fast, was tempted by the devil (Matt. IV. 8-12) ; and above the Foun- tain of Elisha whose waters he healed and con- verted from bitter to sweet (II. Kings, II 21-23). Jericho was built by Herod, and it was here he died : and near it was the tree climbed by Zac- cheus to enable him to view Jesus as he passed through the vast concourse of people (Luke, XIX. 1-5). Here also grew the famous Balsam shrubs which possessed the virtue of healing wounds, presented by Mark Antony to Cleopatra, and which she caused to be removed to Heliopolis when she sold the ground to Herod. From Jericho we crossed the brook Cherith, passed the cave where Elisha was fed by the ravens, the place where the she-bears lurked to tear the "forty and two wicked children" (II. Kings, II. 24), and lunched among the ruins of the Samaritan inn: afterwards passing the spot where a certain man fell among thieves (Luke, X. 30-36) we reached Bethany, where we de- scended into the tomb of Lazarus, and visited the ruins of the house of Mary and Martha (John, XL). From Bethany we followed the road by which Christ made his triumphal entry into Jerusalem, 262 A TOUR passing the site of the fig-tree which he cursed (Mark, XL) ; the field which henceforth pro- duced but stones ; and camped on the Mount of Olives from which point is obtained a magnificent view of the Holy City. CHAPTER XXL SINJEL : NABLOUS : SAMARIA : JEZREEL : NAZARETH : THE SEA OF GALILEE : TIBERIAS I CAPERNAUM : DAN : CdESAREA PHILIPPI : DAMASCUS I BAALBEC : BEYROUT. LEAVING Jerusalem for the north we crossed the hill of Neby Samwil the Biblical Mizpah where Saul was elected the first king of Israel ; de- scended to the village and pool of Gibeon where Solomon asked of God wisdom to govern his people ; passed Ramah where Samuel was born and Beira where Joseph and Mary missed Jesus, after a day's journey. We stopped for rest and refreshment at Bethel where Jacob with his head on a stone dreamed of a ladder that reached to heaven, and saw angels ascending and descending thereon ; and camped for the night at Sinjel near the Robbers' Fountain. From here we passed through Shiloh where the Ark of the Covenant rested for 300 years ; AROUND THE WORLD. 263 and where Eli fell down and broke his neck ; fur- ther on the well of Haran where Jacob first met Rachel (Gen. XXIX.) ; Joseph's tomb where he was buried after being brought up out of Egypt (Josh. XXIV. 32); and the well which Jacob dug after buying the land of the sons of Hamor for 100 pieces of silver, and where Jesus sat talking to the woman of Samaria (John, IV. 5-3 1). Nablous or Shechem one of the cities of refuge whose history dates back 4,000 years, is situated in a beautiful valley at the foot of Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim, between which Moses commanded Joshua to read the laws before the congregation of Israel. Here Abraham first pitched his tent in Canaan ; here Simeon and Levi murdered the male population to revenge the dishonor of their sister Dinah ; and here Re- hoboam was proclaimed king over Israel. The inhabitants, who are Samaritans number- ing about 1,000, believe only in the Pentateuch or first five books of Moses ; they claim to be the true Jews ; and in their synagogue show the celebrated Samaritan Codex said to be 4,000 years old. On the top of Mount Gerizim where the twelve stones of the tribes of Israel were set up, traditions say that Abraham met Mel- chisedec ; and that here also he prepared to sac- rifice his son. On this mountain during the months of April and May the Samaritans en- 264 A TOUR camp, and on the traditional spot offer up a burnt sacrifice of a ram. After leaving Nablous we rode through a fer- tile and well-cultivated valley to Samaria, and camped on the ruins of Ahab's Ivory Palace which stands on the top of a lone hill 300 feet above the level of the plain, with expansive views in every direction. Here are the remains of Herod's noble colonnade of which about 100 of the granite columns yet stand ; and it was on this site that once stood the great temple of Baal. The city was besieged during the reign of Ahab, who married the notorious Jezebel, by the king of Damascus ; and the suffering of the inhabitants during the three years' siege, was one of the most frightful on record ; it is recounted among other horrors that mothers actually boiled their dis- membered infants for food. The siege was finally raised, as predicted by Elisha the prophet (II Kings, VI. 24-33 ; VII. 1-20). From Samaria we visited the site of Dothan where Elisha dwelt ; and near by the pit into which Joseph was cast by his brethren ; thence to Jenin and through the plain of Esdraelon which is environed by the hills of Samaria, those of Galilee and of Gilboa, and Mount Carmel. This plain which is 20 miles long by 12 wide was the scene of the great battles of Palestine. It was here, near the river Kishon that the battle was fought between the armies of Baruk and AROUND THE WORLD. 265 Jabin ; when Sisera, general of the army of the latter fled on foot to the tent of Jael, who after inviting him in to rest and giving him drink, drove a nail into his temple ; here also Joshua, Benhadad, Saul, Gideon, Tamerlane, Tancred, Coeur de Lion, Saladin, and Napoleon have fought bloody battles and added pages of history to this already celebrated spot. At night we camped at Jezreel the capital of Ahab and the wicked Jezebel, the scene first of their crimes, and later of their retribution (I Kings, XXI.), and from here we passed the Fountain of Gideon, where he encamped his army previous to the attack on Shunem (Judges, VII). It was in Shunem that Elijah restored the child of the Shunamite to life ; from this town we rode around the mountain of Little Hermon to Nain, where Jesus resuscitated the widow's son (Luke, VII. 1 1-16), and beyond, to Endor where we visited the cave in which lived the witch whom Saul consulted before going into battle (I Samuel XXVIII. 7-15). After thus diverging, we returned, and con- tinued through the plain of Esdraelon, stopping at Debiereh the home of the prophetess Deborah ; and ascended Mount Tabor, the scene of the Transfiguration, which rises like a cone in the midst of the plain, whence is obtained a magnifi- cent view of the adjacent country. Nazareth, the scene of the Annunciation and 266 A TOUR the home of the Saviour during his boyhood's years, contains a population of 6,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the side of a hill overlooking a lovely valley ; but its streets, like those of all Eastern cities are narrow, crooked and filthy. At the entrance of the town is the Fountain of the Virgin where Mary was in the habit of drawing water, and which the Greeks claim was the scene of the Annunciation ; while to-day as then, it is the favorite resort of the Nazarene maidens, who assemble here to fill their jugs which they carry away gracefully poised on their heads. The Church of the Annunciation where the Latins claim the angel appeared to the Virgin, is built over the house of the Holy Family which is divided into three small underground apart- ments ; a broken column indicating the spot where the angel appeared, and a cross where the Virgin stood while receiving his message. A church also covers the site of the carpenter shop where Jesus and Joseph worked at their trade: another incloses an immense rock on which Christ and his disciples ate; and the synagogue is shown from which Jesus was driven while preaching. In Nazareth as elsewhere throughout the country, the sites of holy places are covered by churches of the Latins or Greeks, each sect often claiming a different locality for the identical asso- ciation, and building thereon a commemorative church. AROUND THE WORLD. 26/ From Nazareth to Tiberius, we passed Gath Hepher ; and Cana of Galilee where Christ per- formed his first miracle excepting those recorded in the rejected books; and here we visited an old church in which are two huge earthen pots which are claimed to be the identical ones used at the marriage feast (John, II. 1-12). Passing Lubieh and Beth-arbel, we stopped for our mid-day repast on the summit of Horn- Hattin or Mount of Beatitudes where Christ preached His famous sermon on the Mount (Matt V. VI. VII). Here the last great battle of the Crusade of 1187 was fought, the Sultan Saladin completely exterminating the army of the Chris- tians. The Sea of Galilee, or Lake of Tiberius, is 14 miles in length and 6 in breadth, and of the many cities that once clustered along its shores only a few scattering villages now remain. While Jose- phus describes its surface covered with vessels, and naval conflicts taking place upon its waters, it is now as quiet as the grave, with only a few rude fishing boats with their drowsy occupants, break- ing the monotony of the scene. After the expulsion of Jesus from Nazareth He dwelt upon the banks of the Sea of Galilee, and consequently nearly every foot of its shore is consecrated ground. Here He passed three of the most eventful years of His life : here He chose His apostles, while the multitudes followed Him, 268 A TOUR and here He performed his most noted mira- cles. The town of Tiberias on the borders of the sea, was built by Herod Antipas and named after the Roman emperor. It once extended for two miles along the shore from the site of the present town to the natural hot baths, which are still extant; but it is now confined to a very small area. Its walls are in many places in a ruinous condition, and the place looks quaint and old. On the water's edge is a small convent built on the site of Peter's house and near which it is said the miraculous draught of fishes took place (John, XXI. 1-15 and Luke V. 1-12). The inhabitants of Tiberias are mostly Jews who believe the Messiah will yet come and estab- lish his throne at Safed. Taking one of the small fishing-boats on the Sea of Galilee which ply at the rate of two miles an hour, giving rise to the irreverent but very suggestive remark of an impatient American " it was no wonder Christ got out and walked," we passed Magdala, the village where Mary Magdalene was born ; the place where the miracle of the Loaves and Fishes was performed (John, VI. 1-22); Bethsaida, where are yet to be seen large columns and stone ruins lying in every direction ; and camped for the night on the site of ancient Capernaum, at the upper end of this beautiful sheet of water so teeming with his- AROUND THE WORLD. 269 torical interest Capernaum commands the finest situation on the Sea of Galilee, and its extensive ruins show it to have been a -place of great importance. For the first time since our sojourn in the Holy Land we were impressed with the solemnity of our surroundings : here the desecrating hand of man has not marred the effect of association by the rearing of shrines and churches, but Nature alone chants the solemn requiem : here no Eblis of contention and rivalry exists, but the spirit of peace and holiness broods like the dove over the quiet scene. Continuing north we passed in view of Safed on the summit of the mountain, which is identified as " the city set on a hill that cannot be hid," crossed the rocky highlands of Napthalie, where we met large caravans, one of them alone number- ing 500 camels, and continuing up the valley of the Jordan, camped for the night at the waters of Merom, surrounded by about 100,000 Bedouin Arabs, with their large herds of buffaloes. This is the strongest tribe in Syria ; in time of war mounting 10,000 men on blooded mares, and 90,000 on camels. Riding around the Great Marsh, and passing by Beth-Rehob, we crossed an old Roman bridge and halted for lunch at Dan just above a large spring of clear water, one of the sources of the Jordan. Dan is the ancient Laish which the children of Dan took, and named after 2/0 A TOUR their father, and is situated on the northern bor- der of Palestine as Beersheba is on the southern ; hence the saying: "from Dan to Beersheba." From here we rode to Caesarea Philippi, where we camped for the night near another source of the Jordan whose waters rise in a cavern formerly dedicated to the god Pan. It was in Caesarea Philippi, that Jesus delegated to Peter the keys of Heaven, saying: "Thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will build my church " (Matt. XVI. 18-19). On the roofs of the village houses are struc- tures, resembling birds' nests, formed of branches and leaves, and supported by poles at either corner, in which the inhabitants sleep in summer to avoid the heat and insects. From Caesarea Philippi we ascended the rough slopes of Hermon, and visited the ruined castle of Banias standing on a height of 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, supposed to have been built in the time of the Herods; and com- manded by Josephus. Further on we passed the village of Medjee Eshshems whose inhabitants are Druses ; Beit- Jenn on the banks of a tributary of the Parphar and at the foot of high and rugged rocks in which are cut numbers of tombs, and camped for the night at Kafr-Hauwar, where is the reputed tomb of Nimrod, the mighty hunter. Damascus, the oldest and most Oriental city AROUND THE WORLD. 2/1 in the world, was founded by Uz, the grandson of Noah ; dates back over 4,000 years ; and now contains 175,000 inhabitants. It is situated in a fertile and well-watered valley between the rivers Pharpar and Abana; this oasis of the desert being claimed by some to be the site of the Gar- den of Eden. From the heights of Salihneh, before entering the city, there is a magnificent view of Damascus with its many domes and towering minarets. It was from this point that Mohammed, when a camel driver, first viewed the city, and refused to enter, saying : " Man can have but one Paradise, and my Paradise is fixed above." In Damascus one sees the Arab and Turk in their original state, free from the taint of Eu- ropean civilization ; and business transacted as it was thousands of years ago. The interior of many of the houses are richly furnished, and have large courts filled with flowers and sparkling fountains. In the narrow and tortuous streets may be heard to this day, men relating the story of Joseph and his brethren, and the adventures of Haroun Al Raschid ; as centuries ago the blind Bard of the seven cities went from place to place reciting his undying epics. The bazaars far surpass those of Cairo and Constantinople in cleanliness, variety and beauty of display. The merchants are richly dressed in gay-colored attire, and sit cross-legged on 272 A TOUR Turkish rugs among their wares; here are dis- played all the various products of the Orient spices and perfumes from Arabia ; dates from Nubia; ivory and ostrich plumes from Egypt; tobacco from Latakia ; satins from Aleppo ; rich fabrics from India; silks from China; pearls from Ceylon, and steel blades and brazen ornaments, manufactures of Damascus The city is divided into sections, separating Mohammedans, Jews and Christians, by iron gates which are closed at nightfall and in times of disturbance. The Mohammedans bear a great antipathy towards the followers of Christ ; and in 1860 massacred all the Christians in the city ex- cepting those who effected their escape to their stronghold. Damascus is noted for its cafes, and for its manufactories of silks and jewels ; and is a great centre for the fitting out of caravans for the Bedouin districts ; whence they return laden with rugs, skins and other articles of traffic. The Great Mosque, one of the finest of all the Mohammedan places of worship^is built on the site of an ancient temple, many of the columns of which are still standing. It has two courts and three minarets and in its centre stands a gilt iron cage, in which they claim is the head of John the Baptist. In the cemetery are the tombs of Mohammed's numerous family ; and that of St. George, the tu- telary saint of England. AROUND THE WORLD. 2/3 In the city are: ''the street called Straight;'* the house of Judas where Saul was taken ; the house of Ananias and Sapphira whom the Lord destroyed for their perjury: the Leper's hospital on the site where once stood Naaman's house ; and the wall from which Saul was lowered in a basket. A short distance beyond the city gates is the spot where Saul on his way from Jerusalem to Damascus, to persecute the Chris- tians, saw the Divine light and was converted (Acts, IX.). From Damascus we followed the Abana river to the Fountain of Fijeh, where tradition says Balaam watered his ass; passed the town of Columns, and camped at the village of Suk, lo- cated at the base of a steep mountain, on top of which we visited the ruins of an old marble temple said to have been built on the spot where Cain killed his brother, and beyond, about 30 yards, covered by a shrine, is the reputed tomb of Abel. Making an early start the following morning, we passed over a road and along an aqueduct cut in the solid rock by the Romans 164 years B. C. Further on we reached the town of Abi- lene, where there are tombs cut high up in the rocks ; then Bludan the summer residence of the consuls of Damascus ; and passing Yafufeh, and the tomb of Seth, we arrived at Baalbec after having been ten hours in the saddle. 18 2/4 A TOUR The ruins of Baalbec are among the finest on earth ; their magnificence and magnitude of columns and blocks of stone having been for cen- turies the wonder and admiration of the world. These ruins are 900 feet long by 500 wide, built on an artificial platform raised thirty feet above the plain, and have immense vaults under- neath, the foundation blocks being bevelled and fitted together similarly to those in the Temple at Jerusalem. Owing to the discovery of Jewish architecture amid the Doric, Tuscan, and Corin- thian ruins, it is considered by many archaeolo- gists to have been the House of the Forest of Le- banon which Solomon built for his Egyptian wife, and which is not improbable from the fact that his successors were idolaters ; and this his dwelling place was consecrated to the worship of Baal, or the sun ; Baalbec of the Syrians having the same meaning as Heliopolis of the Greeks City of the Sun. On the immense foundation where rise these ruins, several stone blocks of which measure 63 feet long, 15 wide, and 13 deep, stood two or more temples of immense magnitude : the Temple of the Sun was surrounded by Corinthian columns 80 feet high, and 22 in circumference, only six of which remain standing : the Temple of Jupiter is yet comparatively intact, and is about 230 feet long by 125 feet broad: many of its columns .are crowned by magnificently-carved capitals, of AROUND THE WORLD. 275 such extent as would compare with the size of a cottage. A mile distant, in the quarries, there yet remains a huge block of stone partially hewn, measuring 70 feet long, 17 wide, and 14 thick, and of sufficient area to allow of two wagons being driven on it abreast. Viewing these relics of long past eras the question is naturally suggested as to the means employed to elevate these huge masses to their designated positions at a period when the science of engineering was still in its incipiency. From Baalbec we rode through the valley between Anti- Lebanon and Lebanon proper, and traversed the country to which the spies were sent by the Children of Israel to explore, and who returning, brought with them immense bunches of grapes as evidence of the richness of the land. On the road to Estura, where we proposed camping for the night, we visited the tomb of Noah, which is 70 yards long, and inclosed in a Mohammedan shrine. On the following day, we crossed the moun- tains of Lebanon, stopping for rest and refresh- ment under its famous cedars, after which we resumed our route reaching, in the evening, Beyrout, a town of 100,000 inhabitants, on the sea-coast; its hotels, banks, and shops recalling us once more to the essentials of civilization. 2/6 A TOUR CHAPTER XXII. LARNICA I RHODES : SMYRNA : EPHESUS : PIRAEUS I ATHENS : ITS ENVIRONS. LEAVING Beyrout by an Austrian Lloyd steamer, we had a most delightful trip through the Medi- terranean, and the Grecian Archipelago, sailing amid the beautiful islands so celebrated in historic and classic lore, and landed on the island of Cy- prus, one of the first places where Christianity was established, and where Paul and Barnabas preached. We went ashore at Larnica, a small town inhabited by Greeks, and spent the day rambling about the place. Here we visited the Greek church which contains the tomb of Lazarus, who having moved here after his resurrection from the dead, became the first Christian bishop of Cyprus. This was also the birthplace of Zeno, who founded the sect of Stoics and taught at Athens the doc- trine that men should be free from all passion or emotion. Rhodes on an island of the same name and so called from its abundance of roses, is a most favored spot. It is situated on a hill which slopes down to a miniature bay, and has a delightful AROUND THE WORLD. 2// climate. Rhodes is chiefly renowned for the Colossus which once spanned the bay at its en- trance. This was the figure of a man in brass 105 feet in height, his extended legs forming an arch- way through which the small crafts of the period could readily pass, and was classed as the 6th wonder of the world. It was built 290 B. C. and was destroyed by an earthquake, the fragments being sold by the 6th caliph to a Jew who loaded 900 camels with 800 Ibs. each. Rhodes was also distinguished in ancient times for its liberty, learning, and valor, and in modern times for its defences conducted by the knights of St. John; the Rue des Chevaliers or street of the knights yet containing many old houses on which are sculptured in stone the armorial bearings of the knights. From here we entered the Archipelago passing the site of Halicarnassus where stood the Mauso- leum of Mausolus, king of Caria, erected by Artemisia, his wife and sister, 350 B. C. and reckoned the 5th wonder of the world ; Symi, noted for its corals and sponges and the expert- ness of its male and female divers ; Patmos, where St. John wrote the Revelations, having been banished there by the Emperor Domitian for preaching the Gospel of Christ; Samos, celebrated in classic literature as the birthplace of Juno and Pythagoras, and for a long time the home of Herodotus, who here compiled the greater portion OF 278 A TOUR of his history ; and Scio, which we saw partly in ruins, having been recently visited by a fearful earthquake, and under whose fallen walls yet lay buried the remains of hundreds of human beings. Smyrna, which stands foremost among the cities of Asia Minor, has a population of 160,000, and is supposed to have been founded by Alex- ander the Great. It is the only city of the Seven Churches addressed by the apostle St. John, which has retained its importance down to the present time, and is also one of the seven cities that lay claim to having given birth to Homer : " Seven Grecian cities strove for Homer dead. Through which the living Homer begged his bread." Its inhabitants have erected a temple near the grotto where it is said he conceived his immortal epic, the Iliad. On Mount Pagus, a hill overlooking Smyrna are the ruins of an old castle, near which is the spot where Polycarp the first bishop of the city was burnt at the stake, and near by is his tomb. The principal export of this city is figs, and cara- vans daily import the indigenous products of Asia Minor. A two hours' trip from Smyrna, by rail, brought us to the ruins of Ephesus once one of the most remarkable cities of the world, whose AROUND THE WORLD. 279 origin was attributed to the Amazons ; and es- pecially noted for the Temple of Diana, the 3d wonder of the world. This temple which was 425 feet in length, and 225 in breadth, the whole supported by 127 superb columns, each the gift of a king, was built 552 years B. C. Its erection required an incredible number of workmen ; the most skilful painters and sculptors being employed in the decorations of the edifice. The statue of Diana was of ebony ; and legend avers was a gift direct from Jupiter to the Ephesians. This temple was burned by Herostratus, who sought thus to acquire a meritricious fame; the event oc- curring on the very day of the birth of Alexander the Great, 356 B. C. At Ephesus are also the ruins of the great theatre which seated 60,000 people, and into which Demetrius with his fellow craftsmen drew Gaius and Aristarchus Paul's companions shouting : " Great is Diana of the Ephesians !'" (Acts XIX 21-41.) Here also are the ruins of the school of Tyrannous ; the Agora, or market- place ; the Odeum, and the Stadium which seated 75,000 people; the Gymnasium; the old Aqueduct, 40 columns of which still remain, and on the top of several we saw storks standing guard over their curious nests; the cemetery with numbers of stone sarcophagi ; the prison of St. Paul, on an eleva- tion; the tombs of St. Luke and St. John, and the baptismal font of the latter. In the side of the 280 A TOUR hill of Prion, is the cave of the Seven Sleepers, where the seven young men slept for over 200 years. Near Ephesus, flows the river Meander from whose tortuous course is derived the word meander. It was in this city that Apollo and his sister Diana were born ; here Syrinx was changed into a reed, and here also the god Pan dwelt in the caves of the hill of Coressus ; here roamed the Amazons, and here their contests with Bacchus and Hercules ; and here also, is claimed the na- tivity of Homer. Ephesus was visited by successive celebrities of the different eras Alcibiades, Lysander, Agesilaus, Alexander the Great, Hannibal, An- tiochus, Scipio, Lucullus, Sulla, Pompey, Brutus, Cassius, Cicero and Augustus. Here Antony administered justice; and leav- ing his seat in court followed Cleopatra as she passed the door. Later he sailed with her from this port, in a galley ornamented with gold and silken sails rowed by black slaves and filled with beautiful dancing girls, and winged Cupids; while they made love in the midst of perfumed breezes, to the sound of voluptuous strains of music and the dipping of silver oars. Returning to Smyrna we crossed the Archi- pelago to Piraeus, once the great sea-port of Greece and seven miles from Athens. Athens, the capital of Greece, with a popula- AROUND THE WORLD. 28l tion of 64,000 owes its celebrity to its record of past grandeur, its numerous ruins of architectural and sculptural art, and its historical landmarks of many ages. Of the modern city, the Palace, the Academy of Science, and the Museum are its finest build- ings ; the latter contains a fine collection of old Grecian statues, among which is that of Minerva, modelled after the lost masterpiece, the Palladium, which the Greeks had stolen from Troy and placed in the Parthenon ; besides quantities of arms, gold plate, ornaments, and coin found in the tomb of Agamemnon. The public gardens and open air theatres of Athens are numerous and well patronized, and often combine arenic and dramatic performances. The Acropolis or Citadel crowns the summit of a rocky hill which rises abruptly to a height of 150 feet from the plain in the midst of the city, and has been a fortress from the earliest ages. The Acropolis which was the pride of Greece, the per- fection of art, and the envy of the world had four distinctive features the Fortress of the city ; the Sacred Shrine for sacrificial offerings ; the Treas- ury ; and the Museum of Art. It was entered by the Propylaea a massive marble gate-way of the Doric order, and was approached on either side by steps between which the chariots drove up on the natural rock. To the right of the en- trance stands the Temple of Victory without 282 A TOUR Wings ; and on the left is the Pinacotheca which now serves as a museum for the statues, inscrip- tions, and other antiquities found in the Acropo- lis. The Parthenon a temple dedicated to Min- erva, was built during the time of Pericles 436 years B. C. at a cost of $3,000,000. It was of white marble, 230 feet long by 100 wide; the walls were surrounded by 48 marble columns of the Doric order 34 feet high most of which are yet standing ; while on the faade still remains a portion of the celebrated frieze supposed to have been the work of Phidias representing the faces of the gods, the ceremonies of the temple, and chariot and horse races. In the centre of the temple stood the colossal statue of Minerva, 60 feet high, and covered with gold and ivory ; and in its vaults was kept the public treasure. To the west stands the temple of the Erec- thium dedicated to the joint worship of Minerva and Neptune who disputed for the guardianship of Athens ; the preference being adjudged to that deity who should confer the most useful gift to man. Neptune struck the ground with his tri- dent and forthwith a horse sprang to life ; but Minerva caused an olive-tree to grow out of the earth the emblem of peace and plenty ; and to her was given the coveted prize ; when she called the city Athena, after her own name in Greek. The portico of the temple is supported by six AROUND THE WORLD. 283 beautiful marble figures or Caryatides, women of Caria, who were condemned to support the temple on their heads, for joining Xerxes against their own countrymen, the Athenians. Its Ionic columns are the finest type of that style of archi- tecture existing; and in its inclosure were en- tombed the remains of Cecrops. Below the Acropolis were the temple and the theatre of Dionysus, or Bacchus ; the latter built 500 years B. C. and in a wonderful state of pre- servation. The stage, orchestra and seats are of marble ; the front row of arm-chairs being re- served for the priests of the temples, each having the name of the owner inscribed upon it. The Temple of Theseus surrounded by a colon- nade was erected to receive the remains of that hero, who, in order to abolish the ceremony of the sacrifice of seven Athenian maidens and as many youths, sent annually as tribute to Minos, king of Crete, to satisfy the rapacity of Minotaur a monster con- fined in the Labyrinth, went himself as one of the allotted victims, to Crete. Here having been cast into the Labyrinth, he sought the monster, and slew him, and finding his way out by means of a ball of thread given him for the purpose by Ariadne, the king's daughter, fled with her from the island. In the temple are preserved the code of laws of Solon written on tablets of stone ; and the mar- ble bas-relief of the soldier of Marathon who 284 A TOUR bringing back the glad tidings of success expired with the word ''Victory " upon his lips. Other objects of interest in Athens are, the Stadium, an immense amphitheatre built in the side of the hill where the games and chariot races were celebrated annually; the Odeum of Hero- des Atticus, a well-preserved Roman theatre ; the Temple of Jupiter of which there remain only 1 6 Corinthian columns, 60 feet in height, one of which lies prostrate, broken into singularly sym- metrical sections from the effects of an earthquake ; the arch of Hadrian which divides old Athens, the city of Theseus, from new Athens, the city of Hadrian ; the Lantern of Diogenes, also known as the monument of Lysicrates, a circular building of white marble, and the only one remaining of a series that ornamented the street of Tripods ; the Tower of the Winds, an octagonal-shaped water- clock, each of its sides facing the points of the Athenian compass, and the Bema, or stone pulpit from which Themistocles, Pericles, Alcibiades, and Demosthenes addressed the people. On Mars hill that god was tried for the mur- der of the son of Neptune by the Areopagus which was the highest judicial court of Athens : and here Socrates was tried for theism, found guilty, and sentenced to death : close by is his dungeon-prison, cut in the solid rock, where he drank the hemlock, and where it is said he was buried 398 B. C. AROUND THE WORLD. 285 It was from Mars hill that St. Paul preached to the Athenians, saying : " for as I passed by and beheld your devotions, I found an altar with this inscription ' to the unknown godJ Whom therefore ye ignorantly worship, Him declare I unto you." On Mount Lycabettus is a small Greek chapel dedicated to St. George, and on the Hill of the Muses is a marble monument to Philopappus; both points affording fine views of the city, and of the Plain of Marathon. The most interesting excursion from Athens is by carriage to Megara, a drive of four hours or more. En route the first point of interest is the Tem- ple of Apollo in the Daphne pass. Here Daphne who had bestowed her love upon the Ocean, was walking, when seen and pursued by the enamored Apollo, and unable to reach her lover was trans- formed by Jupiter into a laurel-tree at the moment the god was about to embrace her, whereupon he plucked a branch therefrom and entwined it about his head ; hence the origin of the laurel wreath. From here we continued along the Sacred Way to Eleusis, where are the ruins of the tem- ples of Ceres and Proserpine, in which the cele- brated Mysteries were held. It was in Eleusis that Euclid, the great mathematician, was born, and from here, on a distant hill is visible the point 286 A TOUR called the Seat of Xerxes from which he witnessed the destruction of his fleet in the battle of Sala- mis. At Megara we found crowds of Greeks assem- bled to celebrate the festival of Easter Tuesday. On the village green, with the sunny skies overhead, and frequent glimpses of the blue waters of the bay seen through the intervening foliage, the peasants dressed in their fanciful and beautiful costumes, the rich ornaments of which are frequently in- herited through successive generations held this their high festival with national games, dances, and music. After enjoying this gay and picturesque scene for several hours, we retraced our way to Athens, thence to Piraeus whence we embarked for Con- stantinople. CHAPTER XXIII. THE DARDANELLES : SEA OF MARMORA : CONSTANTINO- PLE : THE GOLDEN HORN : THE BOSPHORUS : THE BLACK SEA : BUDA-PESTH I THE DANUBE. SAILING through the Archipelago, we passed the island of Mitylene, the ancient Lesbos, which once rivalled Athens in learning and art, and where the " burning Sappho loved and sang ;" and the island of Tenedos where the Greeks concealed them- AROUND THE WORLD. 28/ selves when they pretended to abandon the siege of Troy. From here entering the Dardanelles, or Helles- pont, we passed the site of ancient Troy ; the tombs of Ajax, Hector, and Achilles ; the harbor in which the fleet of Agamemnon lay at anchor ; and Abydos, at the narrowest part of the channel where Xerxes, with an army of 5,000,000 men, consumed seven days and nights in crossing, and which Leander nightly swam to visit his beloved Hero : a feat which Lord Byron successfully imi- tated. After entering the Sea of Marmora we passed Mount Olympus in Asia Minor, at the foot of which is Brusa, the ancient capital of Turkey; and further on was Nicaea where the first Ecumenical Council was held. This was presided over by Constantine, and was convened for the purpose of compiling the New Testament ; when certain books were retained and others rejected by bal- lot; A. D. 325. Constantinople, as known in a general way embraces four cities, namely : Stamboul, or Con- stantinople proper, Galata, Pera, and Scutari ; these are located on three approximating penin- sulas, and are separated by the Sea of Marmora, the Golden Horn, and the Bosphorus. Their ag- gregate population numbers 1,000,000 inhabitants comprising almost every nationality. The nobles and public officials are covetous and corrupt, 288 A TOUR often selling offices to the highest bidder; and the lower classes are ignorant and fanatical; peace- ful enough habitually, but dangerous when their passions are aroused by their priests. The city occupies one of the finest natural situations in the world ; and as approached from the sea is very beautiful, exhibiting to view a multitude of domes, minarets and palaces, with a background of the foliage of the cypress-trees which shade the extensive cemeteries beyond the walls. Its interior is a perfect labyrinth of wind- ing, steep, and dirty streets ; many of them un- named, and all swarming with dogs often as many as from 50 to 100 in a single block who lie basking on the pavement all day to the great discomfort of pedestrians who must either walk around or step over the lazy canines. These for- lorn-looking brutes are owned by no one; dividing themselves into gangs, they inhabit certain self- apportioned districts, going every morning from house to house in search of food, thus monopo- lizing the office of public scavengers. This sys- tematic division of territory by these canines is something curious to the observer of animal char- acteristics ; peaceably inclined towards their fel- lows as long as they confine themselves to their own districts, woe to him who oversteps the boundary of his neighbor's province, for from that moment he is a doomed dog. That portion of the city known as Stamboul AROUND THE WORLD. 289 the ancient Byzantium, is on a tongue of land be- tween the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn. It was founded in 656 B. C. by Byzas, a Greek from Megara, who consulting the Oracle of Apollo at Delphi was commanded to build his city on this favorable site opposite Scutari. It was taken and rebuilt by Constantine A. D. 328, who made it the capital of the Roman Em- pire, from which time it has borne his name ; and since then, through numerous sieges has been captured only twice; first in 1204 by the Cru- saders and lastly by the Turks in 1453 under Mohammed II., who slaughtered the Christians that had taken refuge in the Church of St. So- phia, and left the mark of his sword, and blood- stained hand on one of its pillars. The city is surrounded by a wall which though 1 5 centuries old, is fairly well preserved ; that portion on the west, or land side, being very strong and protected by the Seven Towers, a fortress and prison on whose walls are carved the names of many a doomed captive. It was at this point the Russian army made its attack in the late war, and outside of the gates the treaty of peace was signed. The Acropolis, in which is the Seraglio, is situated on the extreme point of the peninsula and was for many centuries the imperial and min- isterial residence ; it is shut in by lofty walls with gates and towers nearly 3 miles in circumference, 19 2QO A TOUR and is entered by the Sublime Porte a gate once guarded by 50 sentinels from which the government of the Ottoman Empire takes its name. Within the enclosure is the throne of the sultan, who, unseen, gave audience to his min- isters ; and here also is the harem prison through whose mysterious underground passages many a disgraced favorite was hurried to her doom be- neath the silent waters of the Bosphorus. Outside of the Gate to the right, is the stone block where State offenders were decapitated ; on crosses over the Gate, their heads were publicly exposed ; and on another stone to the left, their skulls were broken previous to burial. The Mosque of St. Sophia which was built by the Emperor Justinian in 538 for a Christian church, is the finest Mohammedan mosque in existence, and compares favorably in size and grandeur with St. Peter's at Rome. This mosque which, it is said, employed the labor of 10,000 workmen for 7 years, is in the form of a Latin cross surmounted by an immense dome surrounded by eight smaller ones and four minarets ; and is 270 feet long, 243 wide, and 200 high. Of its 170 columns of marble, granite and porphyry taken from various heathen temples, are those from the Temple of the Sun at Baalbec, those from the Temple of Diana at Ephesus, and others from the temples of Heliopolis and of Athens. On the walls are yet faintly discerned the figure of AROUND THE WORLD. 291 Christ, and Christian symbols, painted over with the names of the Mohammedan prophets in Arabic characters 30 feet in length. The Mosque of Soliman the Magnificent, was built in 1560 by that sultan, to imitate and rival that of St. Sophia ; and in his tomb which adjoins it, is a model of the Kaaba at Mecca. Near this mosque was the Slave Market ; the grated pens, yet to be seen, where the unfortunate slaves were displayed for sale. The Mosque of Sultan Achmed ranks next in magnificence and is the only one that boasts of six minarets, which is the greatest number al- lowed ; the Kaaba at Mecca having seven, conse- quently all others are restricted to a less num- ber. Of the remaining mosques each vieing with the other in magnificence are those of Mo- hammed II. and of Benjazid; the latter giving shelter to thousands of pigeons which being held sacred are fed at public expense. The finest of the mausolea of the sultans is that of Mahmoud; the tomb within it, which is of great size, is covered with black velvet richly em- broidered in silver with Arabic characters and other Oriental designs, and inclosed by a silver railing ; at its head are costly camel's-hair shawls and the sultan's fez, in which is a magnificent diamond ornament. The Hippodrome Square, formerly a Greek 292 A TOUR circus, contains the Obelisk of Theodosius brought from Heliopolis ; the Pillar of Constantine and the Serpentine Column ; the latter consisting of three twisted bronze serpents brought from Del- phi where it supported the tripod which the vic- torious Greeks dedicated to Apollo after the great Persian war when the army of Xerxes was defeated. It was in this Square that Justinian's great general, Belisarius, was eulogized for his suc- cess and conquest, and after having become old and blind, was suffered to be led by a child, and beg his daily bread at the foot of the very monuments his valor had preserved. Near this are the Burnt Column once surmounted by the bronze statue of Apollo, and the Thousand and One Columns an underground cistern built by Constantine, whose grave lies neglected in the most wretched and filthy part of the city. Galata and Pera on the northern peninsula between the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus are those sections of Constantinople inhabited chiefly by the Franks, or Europeans, and here are the headquarters of all the foreign ambassadors. On the shore of the Bosphorus is the immense white Palace and harem of the present sultan who rejoices in the possession of 150 wives. Every Friday at noon the sultan can be seen on his way to the mosque, escorted by his ministers, 20 gen- erals, a large staff of officers in dazzling uniforms, and 5,000 troops ; with a suite of attendants, state AROUND THE WORLD. 293 carriages and led saddle-horses. All this display for one man to pass 20 minutes in prayer ! The Dervishes, a religious sect of the Moham- medans, are divided into two orders the Dancing, and the Howling. The former, wearing tall, pointed hats and full skirts, with outstretched arms, maintain an incessant spinning motion, often revolving at the rate of fifty times a minute until the mind becomes so disassociated from the body, that they enter into a state of trance. The Howl- ing Dervishes observe the same ceremonies here, as those already described in Cairo, with the ad- dition of walking over the prostrate bodies of persons of all ranks and ages, who believe in this means of effecting cures of the diseases that afflict mankind. Scutari, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, contains a fine summer palace of the sultan, with beautiful grounds, kiosks, and large cages con- taining fine specimens of tigers, lions and other wild animals. Near by is the hospital where Flor- ence Nightingale nursed the sick and wounded soldiers of the Crimea : and the English cemetery containing the graves of 25,000 victims of this war. In the Turkish cemetery beyond, is a monu- ment to the horse which was ridden by the mes- senger who was sent to announce the taking of Constantinople to Mohammed II. in 1453, and which fell dead immediately after. The government 294 A TOUR employs a Dervish priest to place a sack of oats on the grave each night, and as by morning it has disappeared, the superstitious regard the fact as evidence of the horse's acceptance of the tribute. On the north of the city is the Golden Horn, an arm of the sea, so-called from the abundance of fish found in its waters by the first settlers, which yielded them an immense revenue. One of the favorite excursions from the city is to sail up the Golden Horn, passing the ruined palace of Belisarius, to the Sweet Waters the popular resort of the Turkish ladies ; for this purpose the caique is most in vogue, a long, narrow, pointed boat, somewhat resembling a canoe, in the bottom of which its occupant is required to sit upright, and perfectly motionless, with the alternative of an impromptu plunge into the water. Leaving Constantinople we sailed through the Bosphorus passing numbers of palaces and mosques which border its shores ; the Castle of Asia, and the Castle of Europe, the latter built by Mohammed II., and from which he shot marble cannon balls when besieging Constantinople. Therapia is a pretty summer resort of the ambassadors and wealthy citizens ; and the spot where Medea landed with Jason on his return from Colchis after the Argonautic expedition. Crossing the Black Sea we took a direct course to Buda-Pesth the capital of Hungary, situated on both banks of the Danube, with a population of AROUND THE WORLD. 295 308,000. Buda on the right bank contains the Royal palace in the midst of beautiful terraced gardens, with a stern-looking old castle guarding the heights above ; and Pesth, on the left bank connected with Buda by several bridges, is a modern-built city, with wide streets containing several statues, and is celebrated for its Tokay wines and immense flour mills. From here we took steamer on the Danube a twelve hours' sail to Vienna, passing en route Presburg, Komorn, Gran, and other points of in- terest, but being wide and muddy, with low banks, the river does not compare here in point of scenery with that already described. CHAPTER XXIV. CARLSBAD: HOMBURG: WIESBADEN: EMS: BOULOGNE: AGINCOURT AND CRESSY: ST. OMER: AMIENS: DIEPPE. HAVING by this time traversed the length and breadth of Europe, with the most interesting por- tions of Morocco, Algeria, Egypt, Syria, and Turkey, and deeming it inadvisable during the summer months to continue our travels through the Red Sea and under the Equator, we concluded to while away the intermediate time visiting the 296 A TOUR most noted and frequented watering-places of Europe. Carlsbad or Charles bath has a permanent population of 8,000, and is located in a ravine in the mountains of Bohemia. During the season, from April to October, there are often as many as 40,000 visitors from all parts of the world, who come, not as votaries to the altars of Fashion, but as worshippers at the shrine of Hygeia. The mountains and hills environing Carlsbad are intersected by beautiful and romantic walks, where invalids seek in healthful exercise an ef- ficient adjunct to the medicinal effects of the waters. Owing to the oppressive atmosphere of the valley, visitors, as a rule, seek the cool shelter of the many pretty villas which dot the hill slopes surrounding it. The Springs, 9 in number, lo- cated along a stream in the bottom of the ra- vine, take their name from the Emperor Charles IV. who discovered them while hunting, his dog chancing to fall into one, and emerging scalded by the natural heat of the water: the Emperor, afterwards returning here, was benefited by the baths which he took for wounds received in battle. The principal of these Springs are the Miihl- brun, and the Sprudel, whose waters are 165 de- grees Fahrenheit, and contain sulphate, carbonate of soda, lime and potash, considered highly bene- AROUND THE WORLD. 297 ficial for rheumatism, liver, and kidney diseases. Every morning from six to eight, while the band plays, crowds of visitors may be seen strolling towards the springs carrying their small glasses, and taking their places in line, to await their turn to be served from the medicinal waters. Homburg, one of the most famous watering places of Germany, is 15 miles from Frankfort, and is situated on a commanding elevation. The Kursaal is decidedly the handsomest building of its kind in the Empire ; its theatre, concert, and ball-rooms, together with the exten- sive grounds and promenades surrounding it, combine to render it a delightful place of resort. The springs, four in number, are beneficial for rheumatism and skin diseases; while the large park in which they are situated, laid out in flower- bordered walks, and the conservatories filled with orange-trees and other tropical plants, add much to the attractions of the place. Wiesbaden, with a population of 50,000 is the capital of the Grand Duchy of Nassau in Prussia, and the residence of the Grand Duke ; it is beautifully situated in the midst of gardens, or- chards, and handsome villas. The springs, numbering 30, which are alkaline, and of a high temperature, were known to the Romans ; and are frequented during the season, by at least 30,000 people. Its Kursaal which is devoted to reading-rooms, restaurant, and formerly 298 A TOUR to gambling -halls, is in the midst of a park con- taining a beautiful little lake on the margin of which are tables and chairs where visitors retire after dinner to sip their coffee, while listening to a fine band of music. Ems, another fashionable place of resort much frequented by Germans and Russians, is situated on both banks of the river Lahn, in a long narrow valley shut in on both sides by steep wooded hills, and has a population of 6,000. It has a fine Kursaal and a covered colonnade for promenading in inclement weather besides many shaded walks. It was here the Emperor then King William gave Benedetti his final answer July, 1870 which led to the Franco-Prussian war. Boulogne derives its importance from its prox- imity to the shores of England, and is a fashion- able watering-place much frequented by English visitors for its surf bathing. On one side of the harbor is the circular basin excavated by Napoleon to contain the flat-bottomed boats intended to convey his army of invasion to England. Not far from Boulogne are the celebrated battle-fields of Agincourt and Cressy ; in connec- tion with the latter of which is noted the incident of the brave blind king of Bohemia anxious to participate in the battle, insisting upon being led by two knights into the thickest of the fight, where he fell covered with wounds. His standard was presented to the Black Prince after the Eng- AROUND THE WORLD. 299 lish victory, who adopted for his own, the crest it bore, three ostrich plumes with the motto Ich Dzen, I serve, which has been borne ever since by the successive Princes of Wales. The town of St. Omer, one of the oldest in France, is situated in this vicinity. It contains the ruins of a monastery, whose founder, Omer, assuming the cowl at the death of his wife, de- voted his large possessions to this purpose ; for which deed he was afterwards canonized. His descendant Geoffrey de St. Omer was one of the founders of the order of Knights Templar in the time of the Crusades. Amiens, on the Somme, has in its Cathedral a head which the inhabitants claim as that of John the Baptist. Dieppe is another popular bathing resort par- ticularly frequented by the French people, and is situated on the coast of Normandy in northern France. CHAPTER XXV. PARIS : BRINDISI : PORT SAID : SUEZ CANAL : RED SEA : ADEN I INDIAN OCEAN : COLOMBO : KANDY. AFTER equipping ourselves in Paris with medi- cines, clothing, and other requirements necessary for travel through hot, unhealthy, and dangerous 300 A TOUR countries, we took rail direct for Brindisi, and from there, steamer for Port Said at the head of the Suez Canal. The Suez Canal from Port Said to Suez, a distance of 100 miles, is a water highway extend- ing through a number of lakes and ancient canals, and connects the waters of the Mediter- ranean with those of the Red Sea. The project of constructing this canal was entertained by both Napoleon I. and Mohammed Ali ; but it was re- served for Vicomte Ferdinand de Lesseps of France to bring it to a successful issue. He first conceived the idea while in quarantine at Alex- andria, in 1831 ; in 1859 a company was formed of 21,000 Frenchmen, inaugurated by Prince Jer- ome, who took shares when the entire capital of 200,000,000 francs, $40,000,000, was sub- scribed ; and in 1869, the work being completed, the canal was opened with great festivities under the auspices of the Empress Eugenie, the Em- peror of Austria, the Crown Prince of Prussia, and other guests of the Khedive. The Canal is 26 feet deep, and 72 feet wide, and while being navigable for the largest steamers and iron-clads, sidings are necessary to enable them to pass one another. This route has short- ened the trip from London to Bombay by 5,000 miles, or 24 days, and proves such a benefit to the English especially, as two-thirds of the vessels passing through it carry the English flag AROUND THE WORLD. 301 that in 1875 she secured, out of the 400,000 shares, 176,602 shares of the stock. The canal alternately passes through miles of sandy desert, and large, bitter, and salt lakes ; while the great, ungainly dredging machines are kept constantly at work clearing the channel, on which the im- mense naval vessels of the English government are frequently seen going to or from India. The rate of speed allowed steamers on this canal, is six miles an hour, and even this washes away the banks considerably, and fills up the channel. The principal towns passed are Daphne the Tahpannes of the Bible, and Kantara, formerly called Meses. This town, one of the most ancient in the world, is the spot where the Asian tribes entered to settle Egypt, and was the birthplace of Horus the oldest of the Egyptian deities like the Greek Apollo, typical of the Sun. Further on is Ismailia, on the shore of Lake Timsah, now a healthy and thriving town of 3,000 inhabitants, on a spot where a few years ago no living thing could exist. Suez, with a population of 13,000, is on the gulf of the same name near the Red Sea. It owes its importance to its being a station on the route of pilgrimages to Mecca ; and also for vessels ply- ing between European ports and India. Four miles below the town on the African shore are the mountains Gebel Attakah, or Mountains of De- liverance at which point tradition locates the 302 A TOUR spot where Moses crossed the Red Sea with the Children of Israel. Our guide at this place who spoke with the assurance of a contemporary in- formed us it was not Pharaoh, but a horde of Bedouin Arabs who then, as to-day, lived by attacking travellers on the desert that followed the Israelites for the purpose of plunder : Moses being acquainted with the rapid rise and fall of the water, selected a favorable time to effect a cross- ing, while the Bedouins, ignorant of such matters, were in their wake when the returning tide over- took them and they were drowned. As a proof of his assertion the guide contended that had the pursuing party been Pharaoh's host, his chariots would undoubtedly have been found afterwards. However much our guide's account may differ from Biblical records, the fact is incontestable that Napoleon once narrowly escaped sharing the same fate as that of the pursuers of the Israelites. On the Asiatic coast further south, on the Red Sea we saw the Wells of Moses, dug by the Chil- dren of Israel after reaching the shore in safety; and further on at the extreme end of the peninsula, is Mount Sinai where it is said Moses received from God the Ten Commandments. The intense heat of the Red Sea, swept by the hot desert winds of either shore, now began to make itself felt, and our steamer keeping in view the coast of Hedjaz Jemen in Arabia, we passed Jeddah, the sea-port for Mecca and Medina. This latter city, AROUND THE WORLD. 303 only second in the veneration of the Mohamme- dans, contains the remains of the Prophet in a silver coffin beneath a marble slab, over which .a fine mosque is erected. It was hither the Prophet fled from Mecca, a distance of 240 miles, when the skeptical, deaf to his teachings, rose up against him, and from this flight, or Hegira, dates the Mohammedan era. Mecca, the birthplace of Mo- hammed, and the Rome of Islam, is 65 miles from Jeddah. Its natural position hemmed in by hills, its passes guarded by Arab sentinels, and the fanati- cism of its inhabitants, render it almost impossi- ble of access to Christians. Mr. Keane, an Englishman, led by a spirit of adventure, accomplished the perilous feat of ef- fecting an entrance, disguised as a Mussulman, into this city : but being detected, he was stoned in the streets and escaped by almost a miracle. The following account may prove interesting to those who, like ourselves, have been debarred the privilege of entering the sacred precincts. " Mecca," says Mr. Keane, " is a walled city, situated in a narrow, sandy valley, inclosed by rocky eminences from 200 to 500 feet high. The valley is scarcely 600 yards broad, narrowing southward to about 300 where it is almost blocked by the Beit-Ullah God's House the great mosque enshrining the famous Kaaba. The entire building forms a rectangle 250 yards long by 200 broad, the north side of which is formed by four 304 A TOUR rows of pillars, the other three, of three rows each, arched over, and so disposed, that each group of four supports a small cupola, making in all 152 of these structures along its four sides. The oldest pillars are hewn out of the neighboring rocks ; the others consisting of marble, granite, and porphyry, are mostly offerings of the faithful, and include some from the most ancient temples of Syria and Egypt. Within the mosque is the Kaaba, a small, massive building about 40 feet in height. Tradition associates this unpretending and curious little structure with a multitude of marvels and legends. On the north side is a door- way leading over steps inlaid with gold and silver, to the inner sanctuary, in one corner of which lies the famous Black Stone which they claim was a gift from God to Abraham, but which is evidently a meteoric for- mation descended, if not from heaven, at least from the interplanetary space. To the west of the Kaaba is the Golden Channel carrying off from the flat roof the rain-water which is reputed to be endowed with miraculous properties." Continuing through the Red Sea we passed Mocha noted for its finely-flavored coffee, and Aden, located on a rocky, volcanic soil, serving England as a coaling station, and as a guard to the Red Sea. In our sail through the Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean, the Southern Cross, seen only in these latitudes, shone brightly in the heavens above us by night, and nearing India we AROUND THE WORLD. 305 passed the Maldive Islands, which are coral reefs formed by the labor of millions of in- sects with small lakes in their midst, fringed by rows of palm-trees. On approaching the island of Ceylon, our at- tention was first attracted to the peculiar boat used by the natives. It is about 20 feet long, 20 inches wide, and 3 feet deep, with a balance log the same length of the boat, 10 to 20 feet off one side, and attached to it by bamboo poles ; this out-rigger, as it is called, is always kept to wind- ward, and when a breeze springs up, one, two, or three men, will sit on it in order to balance the boat, and in speaking of a storm they call it a one, two, or three man breeze according to the number of men on the outrigger ; these boats sail at the rate of 10 miles an hour, and venture 20 miles out to sea in the severest storm. Ceylon is a pear-shaped island at the extreme south of India and has a population of 2,500,000. Its government is entirely separate from that of India, and the governor is appointed by the British Crown. It is almost connected with India by a rocky reef called Adam's Bridge, so named from the Mohammedan legend that on his expul- sion from the Garden of Eden Adam passed over this singular causeway into Ceylon. By the Brahmans the Island is called the Resplendent ; by the Buddhists, a Pearl upon the brow of India; by the Chinese, the Island of Jewels, and by the 306 A TOUR Greeks, the Land of the Hyacinth and the Ruby. It was to Ceylon the ships of Solomon came for gold, silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks ; and Fable has also contributed to its fame by locating it as the place where Sindbad of the Arabian Nights was wrecked. Near a marine mountain of lodestone his ship fell asunder, and the nails and every iron thing about it flew to the lodestone : even to this day, native boats are constructed without the use of iron. The island is filled with the richest and rank- est of tropical growth ; wild elephants and other large animals abound, and the spices, ivory, and precious stones such as cat's-eye, sapphires, pearls, and rubies found here are world-re- nowned. Ceylon, though the stronghold of Buddhism, contains many followers of the Christian, Mo- hammedan, and Hindu faiths, while Polyandry, which allows- of a plurality of husbands, is largely practised here. Colombo, which was named by the Portu- guese after Columbus, has a population of 98,000. It extends about 4 miles along the coast and is divided into the European quarter, and the black, or native, town. Here one sees the Singhalese chiefly as servants the men wearing skirts, and their long hair in a knot at the back of the head held by a high comb, giving them a resemblance AROUND THE WORLD. 307 to women ; the Parsees as merchants ; the Tamils as laborers, and the Moors as retail dealers ; while upon the Coolies, or lower classes, devolves the menial duties : these latter wear only a cloth about their loins, and oil their bodies until they shine like polished ebony. The natives as a rule are clean in their personal habits, but their mouths are invariably discolored from betel chewing. This consists of a compound of the leaves of the betel, some lime, and the sliced nuts of the Areca palm, which quenches thirst without being intoxicating in its effects, while it possesses strong tonic properties. This mixture, on being chewed, imparts a blood-like hue to the mouth, and has been used by the natives, both here and in India from time immemorial. There are palms in great variety around Col- ombo, but the cocoanut is the most plentiful, and yields many of the necessities of life : its fruit furnishes food ; its shell drinking- vessels ; its milk palm wine and sugar; its stems material for building, and its leaves, roofs, matting, baskets, and paper. We drove through the European quarter, and along the beach, seeing nothing particularly no- ticeable beyond the cinnamon gardens, which are cultivated for the bark of this shrub. In the native quarter we visited a Buddhist temple in which is a gilded, recumbent figure of Buddha, measuring 80 feet in length, with angels 308 A TOUR with drawn swords, keeping watch over him. A poetic feature of the Buddhist religion is the floral sacrifice, and in this temple we first saw, among a great variety of lovely flowers offered at the shrine of Buddha, the sacred lotus. Driving 3 miles out of town, through the rankest of tropical vegetation, we called on Arabi Pasha, who was exiled here after the battle of Tel- el-Kebir in Egypt, and is now a State prisoner of the English. Arabi is a man of large frame and mild countenance, speaking some French, and but a little English. He received us with native grace and hospitality, offering us refreshments and tobacco, and rendering our visit an altogether pleasant one. From Colombo we took the rail 75 miles to Kandy the ancient capital of Ceylon situated in the interior of the island. The entire route af- forded a varied and grand panorama, winding through vales and among hills, combining Alpine grandeur with tropical luxuriance. Kandy though only a small village is beauti- fully situated on the shores of a miniature artifi- cial lake. It has lovely walks and drives, and handsome villas dot the hill-sides which environ the lake : on the margin of which is the palace of the late king of Ceylon and a fine Buddhist tem- ple enshrining a tooth of Buddha, an object of great veneration, and exposed to the view of wor- shippers only on rare occasions. AROUND THE WORLD. 309 Near Kandy we visited large plantations of tea and coffee, and saw growing the clove-tree from whose flower-bud the spice is named ; the nutmeg, the outer covering of which is the mace : also the vanilla, cocoa, rubber, and ban- yan trees, and clumps of gigantic bamboos. Here we saw almost every variety of the palm ; the Travellers' one stem of which, when cut, yields a quart of the purest drinking water ; the Palmyra, from the sap of which a wine is pro- duced, and the Taliput, whose single leaf measures 10x14 feet, and will shelter 15 men. It blooms but once in 100 years, and has a flower, which we were fortunate enough to see, measuring twelve feet in circumference, and of a yellowish color. Returning to Colombo, we took steamer to the extreme southern point of India, landing at Tu- ticorin. CHAPTER XXVI. INDIA : ITS HISTORY : ITS RELIGIONS : BRAHMANISM : BUDDHISM : HINDUISM : MOHAMMEDANISM : THE JAINS : THE PARSEES : CASTE. INDIA, the vast Asiatic possession of Great Britain, stretching 2,000 miles from north to south, and nearly as many from east to west, has 310 A TOUR an area of 1,490,000 square miles; and embraces almost every variety of climate ; with high moun- tains, low marshes, densely-populated and unin- habited regions, immense rivers, and jungles in- fested by the most formidable of wild beasts. Its chief official is the Viceroy, who resides at its capital, Calcutta, and under him are native independent princes, lieutenant-governors, and agents who pre- side over states and districts. The population of India at the present time numbers 250,000,000 of people of different re- ligious sects, and speaking many languages and dialects. As this country is the mother of the oldest religions known, it will not be amiss to give here some details of its history and religious creeds, as derived from other authors, and from our own observation. The early non-Aryan races of India, divided into three great groups, are the Thibeto-Birmans, the Kolarians, and the Dravidians. The Thibeto-Birmans occupy the Himalayas, and include many mountain tribes, akin in feature and in tongue to the Chinese. The Kolarians, supposed to have come in through the mountain passes, are now scattered in every direction, their chief tribes being the Sontals and Khands. The Dravidians who also came through the mountain passes, forced their way on in a com- pact phalanx, and found a secure resting-place in AROUND THE WORLD. 311 the south. They attained a high state of cultiva- tion long before the Aryan invasion ; their chief languages, polished and cultivated, are the Tel- ugu melodious as Italian : the Tamil rich in its literature ; the Canarese and the Malayan. The Aryans or nobles is the wide-spread Indo-European race whose western branch ex- tends over Greece, Italy, Germany, and England. They, in turn, entered India by the northwest passes, speaking the stately Sanscrit, driving the inferior hordes before them, and finding a perma- nent home in the great river plains. They soon asserted their supremacy over the earlier people, as Brahmans and Rajputs ; they established Caste and gave to the East the two giant religious sys- tems of Brahmanism and Buddhism ; their lan- guages were the Sanscrit and Pali with their branches Panjabi, Sindhi, Hindi, Bengali, Mar- hatti and Singali. The Greeks invaded India 327 B. C. under Alexander the Great ; but left no permanent set- tlement, though the Greek type of sculpture long survived in Indian art. Scythian influences and a Scythian era also marked the annals of India from 57 B. C. downwards; and some of the Rajput tribes are traced back to them. The next wave of conquest was that of the Mohammedans, who entered India in the iith century, and made successive conquests. They brought with them their native Arabic; and 312 A TOUR Arabic inscriptions adorn the magnificent mos- ques, halls, palaces and tombs, which they erected chiefly in the I7th century. Brahmanism, the religion of the Aryans which found its earliest exposition in the hymns of the Vedas, and its development in the institutions of Manu, was originally monotheistic. The Rig- Veda, usually placed 1400 B. C. consists of a series of hymns addressed to the bright friendly gods. Divas literally the shining ones, the great powers of Nature, the father- heaven, the mother-earth, the encompassing sky. Brahma, the creator, has no separate existence in these hymns; Vishnu, the preserver, is but slightly known ; and Siva, the destroyer, appears as Rudra the god of tempest. The potent prayer was called Brahma, and he who offered it was called Brahman. Already, in the Vedas, sacrifices are enjoined ; the man-sacrifice, and the great horse- sacrifice of 600 animals that was substituted for it. Thus, by degrees, sprang up the four great Castes; the Brahmans, or priests, sprung from the mouth of Brahma, and distinguished by a sacred cord about their bodies ; the Kshatriyas, or war- riors, now called Rajputs, taken from his arms; the Vaisyas, or husbandmen from his thighs and beneath these, the Sudras, or servile class, the slaves of black descent issued from his feet. After a long struggle between the priestly and warrior castes, the former prevailed and es- AROUND THE WORLD. 313 tablished their supremacy as the makers of San- scrit literature ; and the priests and teachers of the people. The Brahman's life was one of dis- cipline ; study occupied his early years ; then marriage and family life ; next seclusion and de- votion ; and lastly mendicancy, asceticism and absorption. Throughout life he practised strict abstinence, recognizing the transitory vanity of human life. " What is the world ?" says a Brahman sage : " It is even as the bough of a tree on which a bird rests for a night, and in the morning flies away." Self-culture, self-restraint, was the ideal life. Hence amidst all the changes of history the Brah- man in India, refined in feature, tall and slender, has calmly ruled. Brahmanism in its growth and spread is strikingly illustrated by the teachings of Christianity regarding the lapse of man from a pure and simple faith from the knowledge of God into idolatry and superstition : " knowing God they glorified him not as God, but became vain in their imaginations." Brahma, the Crea- tor, became a mere abstract name ; Vishnu, the Preserver received 10 avatars or incarnations Rama and Krishna being the chief; and Siva, the Destroyer and Reproducer, became the embodi- ment of wrath and lust. The most prominent doctrine of philosophical Brahmanism became the transmigration of souls ; ending with absorption in the Supreme Being. 3 14 A TOUR Buddhism, now the religion in a degraded form of one-third of the human race, had its ori- gin in India, whence it has long been exiled. Its founder was Gautama son of a prince of the Sak- yan clan, born 623 B. C. a hundred miles north of Benares. After his student and married life he re- tired when 30 years old to a cave near Gaya in the Patna district, and this epoch in his life is called his Great Renunciation. But instead of finding peace in his fasting and seclusion, he reached a crisis of despair, passed through a con- flict with the powers of darkness, and emerged with new light and knowledge, to be henceforth known as Buddha the Enlightened, and this era that of the Enlightenment. Now he began to live and preach a new life of love and kindness among men, condemning Caste, proclaiming the equality of men, and setting be- fore them Nirvana, that is, cessation, not of exist- ence, but of sin and sorrow as their final goal. He began his public teaching at the age of 36, and for 40 years he labored. His last words were : " Work out your own salvation with diligence, keep your minds upon my teaching, all things change, but this changes not. I desire to depart, I desire Nirvana, the eternal rest." The date of his death is 543 B. C. Buddhism was a missionary religion and it spread as a gospel throughout India. Its apostle was Asoka, grandson of Chandra Gupta, and king AROUND THE WORLD. 315 of Maghada, whose edict in Pali inscriptions indi- cate the humanity and kindness of the teachings which the system promulgated. The son of Asoka became a Buddhist mission- ary to Ceylon, and the systems spread as the Topes and Caves of early Buddhism indicate. But it borrowed much from Brahmanism : namely, the doctrine of transmigration, the practice of ascet- icism, and the recognition of a priestly order. Relics of Buddha were cherished and adored and shrines built over them ; images of the Saint him- self were multiplied, and became objects of wor- ship. But in process of time Brahmanism triumphed over its rival. Buddhism lacked a personal god, it was a form of atheism ; it failed to recognize the doctrine of the expiation of human sin by sacri- fice ; and here the Brahmans had the advantage, and in time regained their influence and their su- premacy. By the loth century of the Christian era, Buddhism was in India an exiled religion, rinding its home in Thibet and Ceylon, in China, and in Burmah. It has since degenerated into an elaborate ritualism akin to Romanism, with the image of Buddha in place of the crucifix; the god- dess of Mercy for the Virgin; a shaven, robed and celibate priesthood; altar and lights; rosary and penance; monks and nuns; purgatory and hell, and in Thibet a pope. Hinduism is the modern development in India, 316 A TOUR of the religion of the Brahmans, modified by Buddhist teachings ; and here again we find only degeneracy from the primitive standards. The Brahmans or priests themselves have in many places degenerated, and are self-indulgent, gross, immoral, worldly-minded men. Caste with all its tyranny prevails. Women are immured in igno- rance, and doomed to slavery : married in child- hood as early as the age of ten if the child- husband dies she is a widow for life, doomed to drudgery and neglect. The temples are adorned with revolting and obscene sculptures and frescoes, the images of idolatry are hideous, and the objects of adoration countless. Vishnuism, or the worship of Vishnu and his many incarnations, and Sivaism or the worship of Siva, form in the present day, the very heart and soul of Hinduism. The old idolatry of ser- pents, trees, and stones, borrowed perhaps from the non-Aryan tribes has been adopted into the system, and the Linga bedaubed with oil and red ochre is the popular idol. The Puranas are the writings that form the basis of modern Hinduism, and they disclose Phallic worship in all its loathsomeness. The chief daily ceremony in all temples, after washing and decorating the idol, and burning lights and incense before it, consists in offering it food rice, sweetmeats, flowers, and grain. The smallest village has its own peculiar symbols of AROUND THE WORLD. 317 worship, which are often merely rough blocks of stone. Mohammedanism first appeared in India about the nth century, and gained a permanent foot- ing by the conquest of the Moslems. In the i/th century its sway was universal in north India. It proclaimed the doctrine : " there is but one God and Mohammed is His Prophet;" and it built its giant mosques in the great cities, and made many converts. The Mohammedan population to-day numbers 45,000,000. The Jains, a small, but very ancient sect, are akin to the Buddhists, but have an independent origin. They are a very wealthy community dis- tinguished by the beauty and costliness of their temples, and the multiplicity of their hospitals, especially those for diseased and decrepit animals. They lay great stress upon the doctrine of the transmigration of souls, and actually strain the water which they would drink, brush the seat upon which they would sit, or the path upon which they would walk lest they should unwittingly crush an insect. Their distinctive feature is saint worship, and their most important holy place of pilgrimage is Mount Abu. The Parsees are of Persian origin and are settled chiefly in Bombay where they have be- come wealthy and prosperous. They hold the tenets of Zoroaster, and worship the four elements, fire, air, earth and water. The Supreme Being 318 A TOUR called Ormuzd is, with them, not self-existing but derived. Their scriptures are the Zend-Avesta, which contains the doctrines of Zoroaster. The religious and social system of India, is everywhere based on the institution of Caste which was originally introduced, as before men- tioned, to uphold the political supremacy of the fair Aryan intruders over the dark aborigines ; but before its introduction a considerable inter- mixture had already taken place except perhaps among the very highest classes of the Aryan con- querors. The indigenous elements being by far the most numerous, the Aryans were thus threat- ened with ultimate absorption ; and in fact had become in many places largely assimilated with the native. They could be saved from extinction only by checking further alliances ; marriage with the dark races was accordingly forbidden, and a definite grade assigned to each shade of color which had already been developed. Hence Caste, originally meant color, and had therefore an eth- nical value. But once established, the institution gradually acquired an indefinite development, and the four original castes, already mentioned, have in the course of ages expanded into minute sub- divisions almost innumerable. The last census returns give 2,500 main di- visions ; and in Madras alone, nearly 4,000 minor distinctions. The consequence is, that every child is born in a caste, and must follow the oc- AROUND THE WORLD. 319 cupation of its father, neither rising above nor fall- ing below it, hence in the domestic provinces, it re- quires a dozen men to accomplish the work of one ordinary servant ; the punker-boy can do nothing else but pull the punker or swinging fan, which is an invariable feature of Indian life ; the man who makes the fire cannot remove the ashes, or the one who makes the bed, sweep the room ; while the Brahman feels himself defiled if he comes in contact with the Sudra, and immediately seeks through prayer to rid himself of the pollu- tion. CHAPTER XXVII. TUTICORIN : MADURA : TRICHINOPOLY : SERINGHAM : TANJORE : CHILLAMBARAM : MADRAS. TRAVEL in India is for the most part attended by discomforts ; the government bungalow or rest-house is often only a place of shelter, and the hotels are little better, even in the largest cities, and one is compelled to provide himself not only with a servant, but with bedding, and often with provisions. The railroad officials are mostly natives ; and one may travel for days on some of the lines without seeing a white face. The first-class cars are but few, and in them are separate compartments for men and women. 320 A TOUR To resume the course of our travels : after landing at Tuticorin a wretched, dirty town in the extreme south of India celebrated only for its pearl-fisheries, we took rail to traverse the country in its entire length and breadth. At Madura we first saw the masterpieces of Dravidian architecture for which the Madras presidency is famous ; and which, in their num- ber, their extent, and the elaborateness of their workmanship astonish and almost bewilder the beholder. The Dravidians offered their labor to their gods, and reared immense temples to their worship. These temples, though differing in size and magnificence, are similar in their component parts. The most conspicuous feature from the exterior are the Gopuras or pyramidal gate- ways, towering from 150 to 300 feet high; elaborately carved with grotesque figures in stone of their gods, which are from 6 to 10 feet each in height, painted in every color imaginable, and in various attitudes ; some having as many as 20 heads and arms. These figures are symbolical of the gods they represent; rising one above the other in diminishing tiers, some ten to fifteen, over the arched gateway ; the summit crowned by an im- mense head with open mouth, great teeth and eyes, grinning down upon the inferior gods with Satanic mien. The Vimana, or adytum, is a square, sur- AROUND THE WORLD. 321 mounted by a pyramidal roof overlaid with gold ; here in a dark cubical cell, the idol with its altar is immured, and a lamp is kept dimly burning night and day. Around the Vimana, and leading up to it, usually from the four points of the com- pass, are the Mantapas, or huge stone porches, richly carved : besides these, are the Hall of a Thousand Pillars, all of which are of elaborately carved stone from 10 to 40 feet high, supporting a flat roof; and the Sacred Tank surrounded with corridors, and with flights of steps leading down into the water. All these gates, halls, courts, and shrine, centred around, and leading to the ady- tum, form the monster temples of South India covering from 30 to 40 acres, and called Pago- das. The pagoda or' temple of Siva in Madura, to which the above general description applies, covers 20 acres, and though not the largest, is one of the most interesting and best preserved in In- dia. It dates from the 3d century B. C. and is dedicated jointly to Menakshi, the fish-eyed god- dess and to Siva. Entering the Temple we passed through a succession of 9 gopuras, and along corridors used for bazaars, where the principal articles sold were paints and oil, essentials of their religious rites, and entered the hall of a Thousand Pillars, one of which is subdivided into 24 smaller ones, and all are elaborately carved in stone ; one of 322 A TOUR these pillars represents the Devil holding a woman by the hand in the act of leading her into tempta- tion ; and boys are taught, as a religious duty to spit in his face. In one of the courts was the sacred tank filled with dirty water in which the worshippers were busily engaged cleansing them- selves from their sins; and continuing on we passed through halls and apartments whare the columns represented men on horseback hewn out of the solid blocks of granite. In this temple there are three different statues of the Bull sacred to Siva, besides many other idols, and all are covered with oil and besmeared with red ochre which impreg- nates the atmosphere with a disagreeable odor. In the centre of the main hall of worship was an immense live elephant painted in many colors and used in their religious processions in transporting the idol. It chanced to be a fete day when we visited the temple, and we found it crowded with the natives. The men, nude except for the loin cloth, bore on their foreheads in painted characters token of their caste, and of the special idols of their worship : while the women profusely decked with ornaments ear, nose, finger, and toe-rings, bracelets and anklets, necklaces and diadems of glass and tinsel had their faces and bodies en- tirely besmeared with yellow paint. A prominent building in Madura, now partly in ruins, is the palace of Tirumala, one of the AROUND THE WORLD. 323 greatest rulers of the province, built by him in 1623. The Throne-room or Hall of Audience is of a peculiar style of architecture, the ceiling con- sisting of several domes supported by massive pillars. A lovely drive of three miles beyond the city, shaded with banyan trees meeting overhead, leads to the Teppu-Kulam a large, sacred tank con- taining in its centre a small island upon which is a temple ; once a year it is illuminated, and the idol placed in a boat and rowed on the waters with the pomp and circumstance of their religious rites. Continuing by rail to Trichinopoly Junction where we passed the night, we drove next morn- ing a distance of 3 miles to Trichinopoly Fort, the main feature of which town is the rock fortress from which it takes its name. It rises abruptly 500 feet above the level of the sea, and towers 250 feet over the town ; while half-way up the rock, and built against it, is a temple dedicated to Siva. A three mile drive northward from Trichino- poly brought us to the famous Dravidian temples of Seringham, the largest in all India, built on an island formed by the branches of the Cavery river. The greatest of these pagodas is seven miles in circumference ; and includes many bazaars and streets of Brahmans' houses, more resembling a walled town than a temple. In its centre shrine 324 A TOUR we saw the Golden Idol one of whose glittering eyes, abstracted in the last century by a French deserter, proved to be a diamond of almost match- less purity : it was subsequently purchased by Count OrlofT and presented by him to his royal mistress Catherine. This gem known as the Orloff diamond, now figures as the most conspicu- ous ornament in the imperial sceptre of Russia. While this temple differs but little from the general description already given of the Indian pagodas, the wonderful carvings in its Column Hall are worthy of special notice. Its pillars, formed from a single block of granite, are sculp- tured into grotesque, gigantic figures of men in the act of spearing tigers, others mounted on rearing horses, and some of these animals hold in the mouth a loose stone ball : all indicating a wonderful degree of skill. Here we happened to witness a religious pro- cession entering the temple ; this comprised first, a band of music consisting of various kinds of queer native instruments ; next the elephants, im- mense beasts, their foreheads, ears, and trunks painted red, white, and yellow, and their bodies covered with rich trappings and large ringing bells ; these followed by white horses and an en- thusiastic crowd of worshippers. We enquired with interest the object of this ceremonial, and were informed it was the occasion of the elephant's bath. AROUND THE WORLD. 325 Tanjore is 3 hours by rail from Trichinopoly, and has a population of 52,000. Here we visited the palace of the Rajah, two forts, and a church, built by the Protestant missionary Schwartz, in which his remains lie buried. In the great Pagoda is the colossal bull Mundi, sacred to Siva: it is in a recumbent pos- ture, formed of stone which is saturated with oil, and is 15 feet in length and 12 in height. Within the court is the temple of Soubramanya, an ex- quisite piece of architecture ; while the corridor surrounding it is filled with hundreds of Linga shrines. On the way to Chillambaram a town of 40,000 inhabitants, and the very hot-bed of idola- try, we travelled with vast numbers of the natives, on their way to worship at the temples. On reach- ing our destination we experienced an adventure full of thrilling interest. Disappointed in not see- ing at the station the customary bungalow, we found ourselves isolated amid a curious crowd of non-English-speaking natives, and evening clos- ing in upon us. After some moments of anxiety we were fortunate enough to discover a converted heathen who by means of signs and the few English words he knew, conveyed to us the wel- come information of the residence of an English missionary a few miles beyond the town. Procur- ing for us a rough grain-cart drawn by two bul- locks, the only mode of conveyance to be found, 326 A TOUR he accompanied us as a guide, and we set forth for the house of the missionary to beg hospitality for the night. On our way through the town we saw the two temples combined in one, of Siva and Parvati, enclosed by a high wall : and notwithstanding the protestations of our guide determined to enter. He, for reasons best known to himself, refused to accompany us, but promising to meet us with the cart at another gateway, sent a native who could not speak a word of English as his substitute. In the former temple we saw the sacred image of the Dancing Siva, besides some fine carvings, and a chain cut from the solid stone connecting two pillars. We were in the very heart of the temple, examining these interesting objects when a crowd of natives surrounded us, gathering by hundreds as we moved, and pressing us on all sides, with threatening accents and menacing ges- tures. In the midst of our bewilderment we per- ceived that our guide had deserted us. Leading us on from shrine to shrine, and finally forcing us into a dark chamber, the priests compelled us to comprehend by means of the words " gold " and "three thousand," their demand for a large sum of money. Notwithstanding the exigencies of the situation, acquiescence in their requirements was a virtual impossibility as we were totally unprepared for such excessive extortion. AROUND THE WORLD. 327 Followed by the excited mob closing in upon us and blocking our way at every step we at- tempted to make our escape, while the gathering darkness, and an utter ignorance of the modes of egress filled us with terrible forebodings. In this emergency, an " angel in disguise " in the form of a small native boy to whom we had previously shown some small act of charity, crept through the crowd, and gave us an almost imperceptible signal which our sharpened wits readily inter- preted into an invitation to follow him, which we managed to accomplish with much difficulty through devious and tortuous ways, until we reached our conveyance and awaiting guide; and set forth with all the speed of which our bullocks were capable, to our haven of safety and rest, where the missionary and his good wife gave us most hospitable welcome. Madras, the capital of the Presidency of the same name, is a city of 400,000 inhabitants, and extends a distance of 2 miles along the coast of the Bay of Bengal. It is the third city of importance in India, but its harbor is a dangerous one owing to the high surf; and its climate is wretched on account of the cyclones and typhoons which pre- vail from October to January. The main thoroughfares are Mount Road lead- ing to Fort St. George, and Mowbray Road which is a fine avenue of banyan trees. The principal statues of the city are the equestrian one of Sir 328 A TOUR Thomas Munro, a marble one of Lord Cornwallis, and one of General Neil ; and near the city is the suburb of St. Thome the traditional site of the martyrdom of the apostle St. Thomas. From Madras to Bombay, by rail, the trip con- sumes 36 hours, and along the route we were continually passing pagodas and small villages, in the latter of which were immense elephants and horses made of stone, and painted in a variety of colors, standing in rows before some shrine, await- ing the convenience of the gods. The route passes through the independent State of Hyderabad, governed by the great Nizam, whose capital is Hyderabad near the old capital of Golconda. In the southern part of this territory, we traversed the Kistnah Valley, where are the famous Partial and Kollur diamond fields, where the Great Mogul, the Orloff, the Koh-i-noor, the Pitt or Regent, and many other historical and . magnificent gems were found. The rough stones yielded by these mines were formerly cut and pol- ished in the town of Golconda, about 100 miles further north, and from this circumstance the diamonds were popularly supposed to be produced at or near Golconda which is not a diamond- bearing district. Beyond the State of Hyderabad is Poonah, prettily situated, and a great resort for the Gov- ernment officials and residents of Bombay; and further on we arrived at the Bor Ghat mean- AROUND THE WORLD. 329 ing steps, which are immense wash-outs of land 2,000 feet deep. Here the mountains are precipi- tately scarped, and the railway wends its way around precipices and in zig-zags from the summit to the ravine below. At Lanowlee station, ponies are taken six miles to the celebrated Karli caves or Buddhist tem- ples which date about /8 B. C. and whose interior walls are formed of huge statues of elephants and other figures cut in the solid rock. In its centre is the Dagoba, a dome on a circular drum sur- mounted by a Chattar, or umbrella, light being thrown upon it by a horseshoe-shaped window in the side of the cave. CHAPTER XXVIII. BOMBAY: SURAT: BARODA : AHMEDABAD IJEYPOOR: AM- BER : DELHI : AGRA : CAWNPORE : LUCKNOW. BOMBAY *fair haven, as the name signifies is the capital of the Bombay Presidency. It is built upon a chain of islands branching out south- ward from the mainland ; and incloses a splendid harbor of 40 square miles, one of the largest in the world. The fort was ceded by the Portu- guese in 1 66 1, to Charles II., who relinquished it to the East India Company in 1668 for an an- 330 A TOUR ntial rent of \o. in gold. Owing to the increased growth of Indian cotton, and to the opening of the Suez Canal, it has rapidly advanced, and has a greater future before it than any other city in India, if not Asia. The population of Bombay is 750,000. Of these 400,000 are Hindus, 150,000 Moham- medans, 50,000 Parsees, and the remainder Jains, Eurasians, and Europeans. The variety of nationality and costume, is perhaps more striking here than elsewhere in India; crowds of coolies, or laborers, with their dark, shiny skins, turbaned heads and the strip of cloth around their loins ; native women, graceful in figure and feature, arrayed in many colors crimson, yellow, orange, green, and blue and decked in jewelry; Parsees in white gar- ments, and dark, towering, mitre-shaped hats; and Mohammedans, proud and stately ; all bust- ling along through the native streets beneath the tropical sun. The native town, which stretches northward several miles, is mostly the business quarter ; and here are also the bazaars, temples, mosques, and shrines ; while the houses are painted in every imaginable color, and often exquisitely carved and ornamented. Between the Apollo Bunder, a quay, and the old fort, are the finest European buildings in the city, consisting of the High Court, Tower, Li- AROUND THE WORLD. 331 brary, University, Sailors' Home, Post Office, and Watson's Hotel, all built of stone, brick, and iron, and creditable to any European city. Here also are erected, the white marble statue of Queen Victoria, and the bronze equestrian one of the Prince of Wales. On the Green of an evening, from 5 to 6 P. M. the band plays ; and for five miles along the beach, Europeans, and the rich native Baboos, or gentlemen, drive their fine teams with a great display of liveried servants. Malabar Hill the favorite suburban residence of the wealthy, is a lofty ridge, 500 feet high, stretching, as a separate promontory for two miles out to sea, in a southwesterly direction, and from it are obtained glorious views of the city and ocean. On the summit of this hill are the Towers of Silence five mysterious stone receptacles for the Parsee dead, which are located in a garden of flowers. These towers, which are painted white, are about 100 feet high, and 150 in circumfer- ence ; and all around their upper edge and cover- ing the trees in the neighborhood, sit thousands of large vultures, waiting to devour the dead de- posited there. As the Parsees, although claiming to be mon- otheists, worship the four elements, they will not contaminate earth by burial, or fire by cremation, consequently they give their dead as prey to the vultures. When a funeral takes place the mourners 33^ A TOUR stop in the garden of flowers ; the corpse is then silently conveyed by the bearers to the tower, and laid uncovered at the top of one of these stone receptacles ; and scarcely have they departed leaving their funeral garments behind, when the vultures swoop down upon the inanimate remains, and in half an hour's time not a vestige is left but the bones, which drop through the grating into a well at the bottom of the tower, upon which is a layer of charcoal which prevents them from defiling the earth. Another curious sight in Bombay is the Pan- jrapul, a hospital for diseased and decrepid an- imals. This has been founded, and is mainly sup- ported by the Jains, with whom tenderness for animal life is a distinguishing tenet, induced by their belief that life whether it be in man, an- imal, or vegetable product, is identical. In the Panjrapul all sick, maimed or helpless animals are treated free of charge from the mammoth elephant to the tiniest insect ; and we saw numbers of buffaloes, cows, monkeys, birds and other animals there for treatment. The Caves of Elephanta are on an island 6 miles from Bombay, which we reached by a steam launch. A stone pathway and many steps led us to the famous caves which are Brahman temples hewn out of the solid rock. Three massive columns divide the entrance and support a huge overhanging cliff, mantled with verdure, on which AROUND THE WORLD. 333 grow trees with hanging bird's nests. The cave is 130 feet deep and equally wide, hollowed out of trap-rock with huge pillars left to support the roof. Just within the entrance is a colossal figure of the Hindu trinity : Brahma, the creator, in the centre; Vishnu, the preserver, on the left, and Siva, the destroyer, on the right ; besides various other images cut in the walls. From Bombay we took the rail directly north, passing through Surat, one of the first English settlements in India. Here there are many cot- ton factories, and the immense tombs of the gov- ernors of the English and Dutch mills. At Baroda, a curiously built native city with streets crossing one above the other, we visited the Gaikwar's palace, and were shown his gold and silver cannons their carriages covered with the same material. We also inspected his collec- tion of wild animals, and visited the square stone arena, where are given the tiger and elephant fights with which he entertains his European guests with the most extraordinary magnificence. In Ahmedabad we went to see the Jain temple a splendid structure with many spires and elaborate carving. The interior walls and the floors are of a variety of polished marbles, while the images in niches around the temple and in the centre are of the purest alabaster covered with gold and quantities of precious stones and having large pearls and diamonds for eyes. 334 A TOUR As we drove through the town there were numbers of wild apes on the housetops, gates and fences; and in the streets, going from house to house, begging for food which they are seldom re- fused, and all along the line of rail, for two days, we saw hundreds of these animals, many of them as large as a lad of 12, sitting by the roadside look- ing at the passing train. At noon we reached Mount Abu, the Mecca of the Jains ; on the sum- mit of which are some of their finest temples in India. Jeypoor, the capital of Rajpootana, is a walled city containing 150,000 inhabitants. It being the province of a native prince, no European or white man is allowed within the limits of the city with- out a pass from the Maharajah. Presenting a letter of introduction from Sir Richard Temple, late governor of Bombay, to the English political agent, we received a permit from His Highness to visit the city, palace, and old capital Amber; and were given a special escort with staff of office. The streets of Jeypoor are 40 yards wide, and run at right angles; at the main crossings of which, are the market-places, with fountains, and temples having two stone elephants at each en- trance. The houses are stuccoed, painted pink, and ornamented with barbaric frescoing. The palace of the Maharajah is in the centre of the city, painted yellow, and occupies with its grounds two square miles. It is five stones high, and has AROUND THE WORLD. 335, many fine apartments, some being of marble ; while the garden comprising 70 acres, is filled with fountains, and at its extremity is a lake where there are immense turtles and crocodiles 14 feet in length. We were also shown the Maharajah's extensive collection of birds and wild animals among which were white pea-fowls, and the finest specimens of tigers in India ; several having just been caught in the jungle two miles distant from the palace, from the roof of which these animals are plainly visible in all their native freedom and ferocity. Amber, the ancient capital, is six miles from Jeypoor, and hither the Maharajah sent us, with an escort of several attendants, on one of his State elephants, the largest we had ever seen ; decked with showy trappings and richly caparisoned how- dah, its tusks ornamented with burnished bands. The mahout, a native who guided his course, sat on his neck ; and so perfect was his control of the huge beast that at a word of command he would kneel, in order to facilitate our mounting and dis- mounting ; notwithstanding which a ladder was necessary to enable us to ascend or descend his sides. In this novel manner we wended our way along the edge of the jungle where large apes sporting among the overhanging branches of the trees grinned down upon us, in such close prox- imity that we instinctively grasped our hats in the not unfounded fear of having them snatched away. 336 A TOUR After passing many ancient temples and shrines we arrived at Amber which retains of its former magnificence only the ruins of its fine palace, which is situated on a high hill overlook- ing the native town, and a beautiful little lake. Delhi whose ancient wealth and grandeur has been described by Moore, in the departure of Lalla Rookh from her father's capital to Cash- mere where she went to meet her betrothed, the king of Bucharia, is situated on the Jumna river, and dates from 1400 B. C. It has been destroyed seven times, but its extent and magnificence can somewhat be imagined when one beholds its temples, columns, and tombs strewn thickly over an area of 45 square miles. It was governed in turn by Hindus, Mohammedans, Tartars, Af- ghans, and Moguls ; and its treasures rifled by each successive conqueror ; but many of its finest buildings yet stand, in a remarkable state of pre- servation, as monuments of its past grandeur. The city of to-day, whose population numbers 155,000 was built by Shah Jehan in 1637, wno m ~ herited the great wealth and genius of his grand- father Akbar the Great. The city wall, which is of red sandstone, is five miles in circumference, and has eight gates ; the citadel is inclosed within an- other wall one mile and a half in circumference, entered by the Delhi and Lahore gates, and com- prises the fort, palace and other fine buildings. Entering the fort by the Lahore gate called the AROUND THE WORLD. 337 king's umbrella from its splendid Gothic arch, we first visited the Diwan-i-Am or hall of public audience a large apartment open at three sides, and supported by rows of red sandstone pillars formerly adorned with gilding and stucco work. Behind the throne is a doorway by which the Emperor entered from his private apartments; and the wall is covered with mosaic pictures in precious stones, of some of the most beautiful fruits, birds, flowers, and animals of Hindostan. These were executed, as Avas also the work in the palace by Austin de Bordeaux, who after defraud- ing several of the princes of Europe by means of false gems which he fabricated with great skill, sought refuge at the court of Shah Jehan, where he was in great favor with the Emperor, and made a large fortune. Next we saw the Motee Musjeed or Pearl Mosque built of marble and so called from its pearl-like whiteness and beauty. The palace of Shah Jehan is a beautiful struc- ture of the purest marble raised on a terrace four feet high, with floors, walls, and supports of the same material inlaid with gold, silver, and precious stones. The top of the building is surmounted by four marble pavilions with gilt cupolas, and the ceiling was originally completely covered with silver filigree; but in 1759 the Mahrattas, under Sedasheo Bhad, after the capture of the city, possessed themselves of it and caused it to 338 A TOUR be melted into coin the value of the same being estimated at $850,000. At one end of the build- ing are the baths of the Shah, and those of the ladies of the harem, decorated in extravagant style; and these are connected, by a stream of water, run- ning through the building in a shallow trough cut in the marble floor, with their repose and sleeping apartments. These latter surpass even the baths in richness, and have open-work marble screens through which the ladies of the harem could look upon the outer world. Adjoining them is a small apartment on whose walls are golden representations of the sun and moon, and of a pair of balances before which the Emperor paused for prayer before entering court, and asked that he might deal justice in his judgments. The Diwan-i-Khas or Hall of private Audi- ence particularly set apart for the reception of the nobles, is by far the finest and most interesting apartment in the building. It is a quadrangle of moderate dimensions and constructed entirely of the purest of white marble, with massive pillars of the same material, the whole of which are richly ornamented with flowers of inlaid mosaic work of different colored stones, and with gildings ; and on the side looking out upon the river, there is a marble balustrade chastely carved in intricate designs of perforated work. In the centre of this hall once stood the famous Peacock throne, so called from its four peacocks, two AROUND THE WORLD. 339 above and one on each side, with expanded tails, which with their bodies were so inlaid with sap- phires, rubies, emeralds, pearls, and other precious stones of appropriate color, as to impart a won- derful resemblance to the real bird. The throne itself was an oblong platform 6x4 feet; it stood on six massive feet which like the body were of solid gold inlaid with emeralds, rubies, and dia- monds. It was surmounted by a canopy of gold, supported by twelve pillars all richly emblazoned with costly gems, and a fringe of pearls orna- mented its outer edge. Between the two topmost peacocks stood the life-size figure of a parrot, said to have been carved from a single emerald. On each side of this throne was a chattar, or umbrella, one of the Oriental emblems of royalty : they were formed of crimson velvet richly em- broidered and fringed, like the canopy, with pearls : the handles were eight feet in length, of solid gold, and studded with diamonds. The cost of this superb work of art has been estimated at $30,000,000. The Peacock throne with nearly all the treas- ure in the imperial city, was carried off by Nadir Shah the Persian conqueror, who in 1739 having defeated at Karnaul the reigning emperor, Mo- hammed Shah grandson of Shah Jehan marched with that sovereign, a captive in his train, to Delhi. The inhabitants enraged on beholding this, rashly attacked the Persian guard ; 340 A TOUR whereupon Nadir Shah ordered a general mas- sacre, and caused the eyes of the dethroned monarch to be put out. The city has never recovered from the work of destruction to which it was then doomed. In one end of this famous Audience Hall, is yet distinctly visible in golden Persian characters, these words : " if there is a paradise upon earth, it is this it is this !" The principal mosque of Delhi is the Jumma Musjeed, or Friday mosque, built on a rocky eminence considerably elevated above the ground, 200x120 feet, and surmounted by 3 cupolas of white marble with gilt spires ; while the main building with lofty minarets and extensive court, is built of red sandstone. Here on the 1 2th of November, we witnessed the Mohurrum a great festival of the Mohammedan Shiah Sect, when they paraded gilt representations of the tomb of Hussien, grand-son of Mohammed, through the streets, after which they buried them with great ceremony. The Kutab Minar, a fluted column 240 feet high, iiofeet in circumference at the base, and gradually diminishing in a series of 5 stories like the joints of a telescope, to 30 feet in circumfer- ence at the summit, is built of stuccoed stone, and handsomely carved with the 99 names of the Al- mighty, in Arabic letters. It is supposed to have been built by the Hindus, and subsequently con- AROUND THE WORLD. 34! verted into a minaret by the Mohammedans. It is said to have been the highest column standing alone in the world, before the erection of the Washington monument, and is one of the gigan- tic reminders of old Delhi. Near by, and almost adjoining the Kutab Minar, is Aladdin's Gate a majestic arch, beau- tifully carved and built for the entrance of a pal- ace ; while connected with it are the remains of a mosque built of red sandstone from the ruins of eleven Hindu temples whose site was once on this spot. In the midst of this ruin stands the enig- matical iron pillar, weighing about 17 tons, and 60 feet in length but now only 22 feet above the ground. It is supposed to be of Brahmanical origin, and legend gives it the symbolical signifi- cance of the strength and subsequent downfall of the city. From here we stopped at a tank filled with water, to witness a performance of the na- tives ; who jump into it, from the roofs of the neighboring houses, feet foremost, to a depth of some fifty feet, falling with the dull thud of an in- animate body; after which, in a state of exhaus- tion, they come to beg an anna two and a half cents from the bystander. We then drove to the Lat of Fyroz Shah a monolith of red sandstone upon which is an in- scription in Pali indicating that it was erected by Asoka; then to the tomb of Humayun, Akbar's 342 A TOUR father, a tyrant of great cruelty and patron of thuggism, which is of colossal size, built of red sandstone, and required 16 years in its con- struction; and further on to the tomb of a cer- tain king of Delhi who was so partial to cherry brandy that he consumed it at the rate of a glass an hour, until it was the cause of his untimely death. But more affecting than all these grand tombs built of stone, with towering domes and hand- somely-carved marble screens and porticos, is the grave of the lovely daughter of Shah Jehan, who remained faithful to him when his son had caused his imprisonment. It is simply a sodded mound, bearing on the headstone the following inscription in Arabic : " Let no rich canopy cover my grave : this grass is the most appropriate cov- ering for the poor in spirit." From here we returned to the city of Delhi and drove through its chatik or main street, where are the bazaars and principal shops. It was here, in the late mutiny of 1857, that Captain Hodson, an English officer exposed to public view the bodies of the two sons of Behadar Shah the last, and aged king of Delhi whom, after their surrender, he had caused without trial, to be shot. Agra, formerly the seat of government of the northwest provinces, is a scattering city situated on the river Jumna. The fort, which is one of AROUND THE WORLD. 343 the finest in India, is of red sandstone, with walls 40 feet high, and comprises many fine buildings. It Vas built by Akbar the Great, who had three wives, a Christian, a Hindu and a Mohammedan. He built a church for the first, a temple for the second, and a mosque for the third, declaring his determination to be on the safe side. Within the fort, we visited the palace of Akbar ; the public and private Judgment Halls ; the throne of Je- hanjeer where this sovereign sat to witness the elephant and tiger fights in the arena below; the palace of Shah Jehan where he was imprisoned by his son, and the very room in which he died ; also the Sultana's bath-room with walls and ceil- ings formed of thousands of pieces of convex mirrors casting innumerable reflections.; the Pil- lared Hall where the sultan and sultanas played hide and seek ; and the dungeons beneath it where the ladies of the harem, falling into dis- favor, were hung, and their bodies washed into the river through an underground passage. We drove across the Jumna over a bridge of boats, to see the tomb of It-mad-ud-Daulah the prime minister to Jehanjeer. He came from Persia a poor man, his sole possession the ox upon which he rode ; and subsequently became a great favorite with his sovereign, who married his daughter, and loaded him with benefits, and placed this magnificent tomb over his remains. The Taj- Mahal, erected by Shah Jehan, as a 344 A TOUR mausoleum for his favorite wife, whose title was Begum Muntaz Mahal, is by far the most beautiful structure in Agra, if not in the world, and might well be reckoned as one of the Wonders. It was commenced in 1630 and is said to have occupied 20,000 workmen for 17 years, at a cost of about $60,000,000. It is in a beauti- ful garden 2 miles from Agra, on the bank of the Jumna, rising from a double platform ; the first of red sandstone some 20 feet high and 1,000 broad; the second of marble 15 feet high and 300 square, at the corners of which stand 4 marble minarets, 1 80 feet high each. In the centre of this platform reared high in air, stands the Taj with giant arches and clustering domes. Its base is a square of 186 feet, its height is 200 feet, and it is built of the purest white marble with Arabic inscriptions traced over the entrances. On either side of it are mosques, the one facing Mecca de- signed for worship, the other serving only to complete the unity of appearance. Within the mausoleum are the remains of Shah Jehan and his favorite wife Taj, the pet name of the Begum Muntaz in whose honor it was named. One characteristic of the Tartars was their tomb-building propensity; and each Mogul in turn built a tomb for himself. The symmetry of outline, the imposing and dazzling effect of the materials used, as well as the delicate inlaid work, and the intricate marble AROUND THE WORLD. 345 carvings, render the Taj an object that must be seen by both daylight and moonlight in order fully to realize its perfect beauty and finish. All parts of the Orient have contributed their treas- ures to the embellishment of this marvellous mau- soleum : Jeypoor its white marble ; the Nar- budda its rock-spar and yellow marble ; Charkoh its black marble ; China its crystal ; the Punjab its jasper ; Bagdad its carnelian ; Thibet its tur- quoise ; Yemen its agate ; Ceylon its sapphires ; Arabia its coral ; the Bundelkund its garnets ; Punnah its diamonds ; Gwalior its lodestone ; Villate its chalcedony ; and Persia its onyx and amethyst. Many of the most valuable of these precious stones have been rifled from their set- tings by the Jats and Europeans; and conse- quently a guard is now kept constantly on watch day and night. What is huge and massive is usually associated in the mind with what is rough and ponderous; but here is the majesty of a giant building combined with the lightness and delicacy of a costly jewel-casket. The tomb of Akbar the Great, is 8 miles from Agra, near Secundra, in a court a quarter of a mile square, with a heavy fortress-like wall surrounding it. It is 30 feet square and 100 high ; rising in terraces of pyramidal form with cloisters, galleries and domes, to the height of 5 stories. The body of Akbar is interred in the vault beneath ; but on the extreme top, in the 346 A TOUR centre of the building, is his white marble tomb, with the 99 names of the Almighty beautifully in- scribed upon it in Arabic characters ; and at its head stands a marble urn upon which once was placed there by his grandson Shah Jehan the great gem known as the Koh-i-noor diamond, now the centre ornament in the crown of England. Cawnpore, situated on the Ganges, is a busy, populous town, with cotton factories, flour mills and leather works ; but its principal interest cen- tres in the monuments and commemorative spots which testify to the hardships and cruelty that prevailed during the mutiny of 1857. Of these is a well, which is now covered over and sur- mounted by the marble statue of an angel, with drooping wings, leaning against a cross ; her arms folded over her breast, and in her hands two palm-leaves emblematical of martyrdom and victory. On the pedestal is the following inscrip- tion : " Sacred to the perpetual memory of a great com- pany of Christian people, chiefly women and children, who, near this spot were cruelly massacred by the fol- lowers of the rebel Nana Dhoondopunt of Bithoor; and cast, the dying with the dead, into the well below on the 1 5th day of July, 1857." A memorial church, a short distance away, stands in the midst of what was Wheeler's in- trenchment ; where that general, gathering to- AROUND THE WORLD. 347 gether the 330 women and children, surrounded and guarded them with 250 soldiers and 300 citi- zens, the balance of his army having mutinied ; and when at length this worn-out band, reduced by sickness and death, yielding to the treacherous promises of the Nana Sahib of safe conduct down the river, surrendered, they were cruelly mas- sacred at the Suttee Chaore a temple now marking the spot on the banks of the Ganges. Lucknow the capital of Oude, is a city of 262,000 inhabitants, situated on the banks of the river Goomti, a tributary of the Ganges. Like Cawnpore it was the scene of much suffering and bloodshed during the great mutiny. It was in the Residency here that in 1857, 2,200 souls consisting of 1,000 European residents with their families sought refuge; and that 1,000 soldiers under the English general, Sir Henry Lawrence, kept a large army of Sepoys at bay for six months. The building is a large three-story house, with towers and thick walls, standing on an ele- vation in the midst of extensive grounds. We descended into the vast cellars where the women and children had found refuge ; shot and shell having left their traces on every side. The , tombs of Lawrence and other brave men are within the grounds, bearing touching epitaphs commemorative of the events attending their deaths. The house is a ruin and a melancholy 343 A TOUR spectacle ; but Nature has mantled the spot with verdure, and the gardens are blooming with flowers. Lucknow has some very grand and imposing buildings, especially those in the fort; among which are, the Imaun Barra an old palace and several mosques and gates crowned with domes, of a very pleasing style of architecture. Among the most important buildings which we visited are the Kaisar Bagh with its large grounds and Turkish pavilion ; the Chattar Man- zie, surmounted by a gilt umbrella, the emblem of ancient royalty; the Hooseinbad or Palace of Light ; and the Dilkusha palace where Henry Havelock died. The Martiniere College is an immense building styled a second Versailles. It was built by a Frenchman named Martin who came out to In- dia a private soldier, and after having become a general, with a large fortune, built this edifice for his private residence. At the Elephant Stables, 3 miles from Luck- now, the English government keeps 100 of the largest of these animals, which are used on state occasions, or in time of war for transporting can- non. The obedience of these huge brutes who salaam, or salute, and lie prostrate at the word of command, is proof of their remarkable intelligence and docility. AROUND THE WORLD. 349 CHAPTER XXIX. BENARES : THE GANGES : SERAMPORE : DARJEELING : CALCUTTA ITS ENVIRONS. BENARES, the sacred city of the Hindus, located on the west bank of the mighty Ganges, has a population of 208,000. It dates from 1200 B. C. and was frequently alluded to in early Sanscrit literature. What Jerusalem is to the Jew ; what Rome is to the Latin ; what Mecca is to the Mo- hammedan, Benares is to the Hindu. It contains 1,400 temples, over 3,000 shrines, 300 mosques, and 25,000 Brahmans, or priests. Its chief source of revenue is obtained from the offerings of the horde of pilgrims who resort there daily to worship at the shrines. In Benares one sees what Hinduism practically is, idolatry of the basest description ; the worship of Vishnu, the preserver, and of Siva, the de- stroyer, being represented by numberless idols and symbols of the most revolting character. Here Brahmanism and Caste hold sway, and Hin- duism has acquired a stony compactness and solidity almost impenetrable. The sanctity of Benares its temples, reservoirs, wells and 350 A TOUR streams has been famed for thousands of years ; and it is the aim of every good Hindu to visit it once annually ; and if possible, when sick, to be conveyed there either to seek life or to find death within the sacred precincts. In the holy Kasi, or Benares, each native Hindu prince owns his private palace which he occupies during his sojourn. The Brahmans, or priests, are among the richest of her citizens, their wealth being derived from the offerings of the pilgrims ; and although some of them are intelligent, they are usually worldly and immoral. Idolatry seems to have a charm for the masses, the persuasive teachings of their priests having for them a singular fascination ; and their zeal and earnest observance of their rites might well teach a lesson to those who claim the light of a Revealed religion. We traversed on foot the narrow dirty streets and bazaars of Benares, inspecting the brass wares, toys, and embroideries for which this city is celebrated ; and at every few steps were brought to a sudden halt by some sacred bull these animals being permitted to wander at ran- dom whithersoever they please, even into houses and shops, demolishing stands of eatables with perfect impunity. But filthier by far than the streets, are many of the temples and shrines filled with live sacred animals, such as bulls, dogs, monkeys, serpents, doves and pigeons ; and idols AROUND THE WORLD. 351 besmeared with oil and ochre, which with the food offered to the latter, as well as to the more appreciative live stock, combine to create an al- most unbearable stench. Each temple, shrine, well, and idol of Benares, has its distinctive legend, which is invariably extravagant. The Golden Temple is dedicated to Siva, the presiding deity of Benares, and is considered the holiest of all the places in the city ; while the symbol of the god is a plain Linga of uncarved stone. In the Temple of Ampura, all beggars are fed daily. The goddess Ampura is their divinity of love and beauty ; and her charms are enhanced by ornaments of gold and silver. In one shrine of this temple is an idol representing the sun seated in a chariot drawn by seven horses; in another is Gauri Shanker; in another Hanoo- man the monkey-god ; and in yet another Ga- nesh, with his elephant trunk. The Temple of Bhaironath enshrines a god who is the protector of Benares. The idol is of stone with a face of silver, and head encircled with garlands; he has four hands, and is armed with a stone bludgeon. Behind him is the image of a dog, on which the deity is sup- posed to ride. Before the temple sits a priest with a chowry or switch of peacock feathers in- flicting gentle punishment upon the worshippers who offer themselves for chastisement. In this 352 A TOUR temple there congregate numbers of dogs which are fed daily by men appointed for the purpose. Near by is the Temple of Sukreswar a creative god ; that of Sitla, the goddess presiding over small-pox; and the Temple of Naugrah dedicated to the planets in which every Hindu must inaugurate each important religious cere- mony. In the Temple of Ganesh is its god painted red, with three eyes, a silver head, and an ele- phant's trunk ; while at his feet is the figure of a rat on which the god is supposed to ride. The Trilochan Temple which is devoted to Siva has at its entrance a marble bull ; while the paintings on the wall represent hell with the river of death in the foreground, and figures in it en- deavoring to make their way to the opposite shore. The Temple of Kameshwar is dedicated to the god of wishes, whose prerogative it is to grant the desires of his worshippers ; and as the wants of mankind are legion, it is not surprising that Kameshwar has a host of devotees. The Nepaulese Temple occupies one of the most conspicuous places in the city, and from a distance presents a handsome appearance ; but on a closer examination, it is found to be defiled with carvings of an obscene character. At the extreme end of the city, and near the river's bank, is the Durga Kund or monkey temple, so called from the hundreds of brown AROUND THE WORLD. 353 monkeys, sacred to Durga, who inhabit the temple, bathe in the tank, and rear their young in a hollow tamarind tree near by. Here every Tuesday morning sacrifices of goats and buffaloes take place ; and the ground around is saturated with the blood of these animals. The Wells of Fate, Knowledge, Salvation, of the Moon, and of Hindu mythology, are as full of curious legends as they are of putrid water from which emanate the most noisome smells. Op- posite the Nepaulese Temple is a Well whose waters are so pestilent that the effluvium pollutes the air around ; but notwithstanding this fact the sick and aged, believing in its miraculous proper- ties of imparting health and longevity, bathe in this well and even drink its waters. Lepers, the very sight of whom is sickening, and those suffer- ing from other contagious diseases, bathe in com- mon, an act which is calculated to shorten life rather than to prolong it. One of the oldest and most interesting houses in Benares is the Manmandil, the whole top of which is covered with huge astronomical instru- ments built of stone, which excite the wonder of all scientific men. Here are instruments used for taking the sun's altitude and zenith ; for ascer- taining its greatest declination ; its distance at noon ; its ascensions ; the latitudes, and for find- ing the degrees of azimuth of a planet or star; and here also is an equinoctial stone. 23 354 A TOUR The great sight of Benares is its river front in the early morning, when the rays of sunrise flood the city with brightness, and its inhabitants bathe in their sacred river, the Ganges. Seated on the deck of a dinghy with four men to row, we floated slowly along with the lazy tide, watching the panorama of humanity at its devotions. Men, women, and children of all ages were crowding the ghats, or steps, leading down into the water, performing their ablutions in the yellow tide as a daily act of refreshment, of purification, and of religion; worshipping the river, basking in the sun, filling vessels with the sacred water for purifying purposes at home ; and finally repairing to the Brahmans seated on the banks of the river under large palm-leaf umbrellas, in order to have the distinctive marks of their castes painted upon their shiny foreheads ; for which service they de- posited a coin in the grasping hands of the offici- ating priests. Bordering one side of the river, the temples and palaces rose, one above another on the steep bank, and several of the largest of these, having been undermined by the water, had partially sunk into the river. The Dasaaswameah Ghat or steps, is one of the five chief points of pilgrimage in the city. It derives its name from dasa, ten, aswa, a horse, and meah a sacrifice ; for here, according to Hindu tradition, Brahma offered a sacrifice of ten horses. AROUND THE WORLD. 355 On this spot have been erected ten commem- orative shrines, each containing an idol. Here we saw several of the religious devotees called Fakirs, who live upon charity, and obtain a reputation for sanctity by abstinence, by severe penances, by anointing their greasy bodies and faces with ashes allowing their hair to grow until the long shaggy locks touch the ground and by assuming an upstretched position of the right arm, which is retained until the limb becomes immovably fixed in that attitude. At the Burning Ghat, are several slabs set up on end called Suttee, which mark the spots where widows have been burnt alive on the funeral pyre of their husbands ; but this custom was prohibited by the English government in 1829. The word Suttee means " chaste " or faithful woman ; and these memorials are held as objects of great ven- eration. At this place most of the cremating cere- monies take place, and we saw seven bodies consumed in one day. When a Hindu is about to die, he is laid upon the ground to breathe his last ; and a few hours later, the body is placed on a bamboo litter with simply a covering of thin cloth, and borne through the streets on the shoul- ders of four men, chanting, to the river side. Arrived at the banks of the Ganges, the corpse is laid on a pyre of wood, and more wood piled over it. The nearest relative of the deceased, 356 A TOUR after having his face and head shaved, and a bath in the river, receives from a dom one of the lowest Caste a lighted torch which, after walk- ing around the pile five times, he applies to the wood, and within an hour or so the body is re- duced to ashes, and cast into the river. Unlike almost every other people under the sun, the Hindus evince no respect for their fellow- beings after the spirit has departed from its frail tenement ; but go through the last rites with a seeming indifference strange to behold. Leaving these repulsive scenes, the depression to which they had given rise was changed for a sense of the poetic and beautiful, as we saw float- ing past us the tiny boat with flower-encircled lights, freighted with the fate of the Indian maiden, who by the continuance of the flame tests the fi- delity of her lover. Further on we reached the Mosque of Aurung- Zeb, the bigot and persecutor, who imprisoned his father Shah Jehan, murdered his brothers, and imposed a tax upon all who were not of the Mo- hammedan faith. Its minarets tower over the city, and from the top of one of these, we ob- tained a magnificent view. Benares is not only the centre of Hinduism, but also the cradle of Buddhism. After six years of asceticism and solitude at Gaya, a town 50 miles south of Benares, Buddha having experienced his temptation and his enlightenment under the Bo- AROUND THE WORLD. 357 tree, made his way to this city, affirming: " I am going to give light to those enshrouded in dark- ness ; and to open the gates of immortality to men." The place where he taught, once called the Deer-park, now Sarnath, lies four miles north of Benares, and is marked by a large tope a pile of brick and stone resembling an im- mense bee-hive, about 120 feet high, and 90 feet in diameter at the base. It is handsomely carved, and has eight niches around it intended as recep- tacles for life-size statues of Buddha, and is sup- posed to contain a relic of this great Reformer. Continuing from here by rail, we stopped at Serampore, which we visited to see the temple and great idol Juggernaut a hideous figure with an immense head and big eyes. Outside of the temple is the car of Juggernaut, one of the largest in India, being 60 feet high, covered with images and paintings and mounted on 16 broad wheels. On top of this the idol Juggernaut is placed and drawn through the streets in their religious pro- cessions ; on which occasions the fanatics throw themselves on the ground before it, to be crushed beneath the wheels, notwithstanding the efforts of the English government to suppress this bar- barous custom. From here we took a boat to the opposite side of the Ganges, and visited Barrackpoor, a pretty suburban village, and a great resort for Europeans. In the centre of a large garden here, stands the A TOUR summer residence of the Viceroy of India, and in this section is cultivated the poppy, the opium from which having been extracted is shipped from Calcutta to China. Darjeeling, appropriately called " the city above the clouds," is prettily located in the Him- alaya Mountains 8,000 feet above the level of the sea. It is surrounded by the highest peaks of the range, 12 of them within line of vision from this point, each being over 20,000 feet high. Mt. Everest, the highest in the world, 29,002 feet ; Kinchinjinga, 28,156; and Chamalari, 27,200 feet, all located in Nepaul and Thibet, stand out like sentinels with their snowy caps, and present a scene of grandeur unequalled on the globe. Here is seen the thickest crust of the earth's surface 5^ miles; casting the eyes from the snowy peaks above the clouds to the great ra- vines below clad in rankest tropical vegetation, one is filled with awe at beholding these sublime con- trasts of nature. Here are seen a variety of people the Ne- paulese, with intelligent and pleasing counte- nances, active and brave to a degree, but whose country Europeans can only view from a distance ; the Bootiers with almond-shaped eyes, high cheek-bones, and wearing the queue, who make use of a praying machine a toy resembling a child's large-sized rattle in which, on yards of paper, their prayers are inscribed ; this they re- AROUND THE WORLD. 359 volve while repeating the formula, which may be translated "Oh, the Jewel on the Lotus!" re- ferring to Buddha; and again other sects who rarely wash themselves, but coat their faces with tar to preserve their sight, and as a protection from the cold. The modes of conveyance used here are palan- quins a kind of box open at either side and of sufficient length to allow one to recline, borne by four coolies; and dandies a sort of recumbent chair on two poles carried on the shoulders of the natives. From Darjeeling to Calcutta the distance is 250 miles, and going thither we first took a min- iature narrow-guage railroad down the mountain, whose grade was a fall of one in every eighteen inches, and having many loops and reverse stations. The train rounded the spurs of the high knobs, crossing bridges over deep ravines and roaring torrents, passing through luxuriant tropi- cal vegetation, tree ferns, rhododendrons, flowering creepers and plantations of tea and chinchona, all rendering it one of the most beautiful railroad trips of our experience. At the foot of the mountain, we passed through ten miles of the densest jungle in India > infested with great numbers of wild elephants and tigers, and stopped at a small station where the gov- ernment employs men to entrap the former for mili- tary purposes. These animals are first driven into 360 A TOUR corrals by means of decoy elephants, after which the latter with heavy chains held in their trunks, advance upon the strangers and beat them into submission. Calcutta, the capital of India, is situated on the Hoogly mouth of the Ganges, 100 miles from the Bay of Bengal, and with its suburbs, has a population of 795,000. Its mid-day sun is hot and treacherous, and the evenings and nights are foggy and cool, producing so unhealthy a climate that its deleterious effects have won for it the title of " the city of pale faces." Old Court-house street, and Chowringhee Road are the principal thoroughfares, on which are situated the finest residences and shops; while between the latter and the river, is the Maidan a large common, with several fine statues, among which is the handsome equestrian one of Sir James Outram. Here between the hours of 5 and 6 P. M. may be seen hundreds of Europeans and natives driving out with from two to six attendants each, attired in garments more gaudy than cleanly ; and congregating around the stand in the lovely Eden garden where the band discourses sweet strains. Government House, the residence of the Vice- roy, is an imposing building in the centre of the city, painted a bright yellow, and surrounded by extensive grounds. In it is the Council-room, with the portraits of Hastings and other English AROUND THE WORLD. 361 notables on its walls, and where the fate of thous- ands of lives have hung in the balance. The High Court, Great Eastern Hotel, and Post Office, are among the finest buildings in the city ; and near the latter was the famous Black Hole, when on the iQth of June, 1756, 146 Euro- peans were imprisoned by the Nawab and Mahratta cavalry, in a room 18 feet square, and 123 of the number smothered to death. In Calcutta we witnessed the opening of the great Exposition, under the auspices of the Vice- roy, Lord Ripon, and the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, and attended by the native princes of India, who had come from all parts of the Em- pire. The display was on an extensive scale, the chief point of interest centring in the Oriental departments ; here were to be seen the thrones, jewels, howdahs and trappings used in state ceremonials, besides other valuables loaned by the native princes for this occasion ; the section devoted to Burmese exhibits being particularly interesting. Caligat which gave the name to Calcutta, is a native village four miles south of the city, on a former bed of the Ganges, amid tanks of stag- nant water and tropical vegetation. The legend runs that when the corpse of the goddess Kali, wife of Siva, was cut in pieces by order of the gods, one of her fingers fell here, and a temple was raised on the spot. 362 A TOUR The streets near which the temple stands, are full of shops for the sale of charms, pictures, and images of idols ; and on arriving at the place of worship, we found sacrifices already taking place, and the ground saturated with blood. This ceremony occurs every Tuesday and Saturday mornings, when great numbers of goats and buf- faloes are killed ; these animals are held by the hind legs, their heads fastened in a vise and severed from the body, the blood being caught in a vessel and poured over the tongue of the idol. The Zoological Garden contains some fine specimens of animals, and is well worthy a visit. The Botanical Gardens, 3 miles from the city, cover 300 acres and combine the natural and the artificial in perfect harmony. Besides many rare specimens of trees and plants, the avenues are bordered with various species of palms ; while in the centre of the grounds is a Banyan tree, the largest known, whose hundreds of descending branches have taken root and cover a circumference of 900 feet, capable of affording shelter for 3,000 men. Opposite the Gardens, on the east bank of the river, is the palace of the ex-king of Oude who is confined here, a state prisoner, having been de- posed for attempting to poison the British agent. He maintains a harem of 600 women, and has a fine Snakery and Zoological collection. Here, as in many other parts of India, we saw the man- AROUND THE WORLD. 363 ceuvring of pigeons which is a great delight and pastime of the natives. These birds, flying in open air by the thousands, were made to separate into sections, deploy, form circles, and manoeuvre like an army of soldiers, obeying strictly the com- mands of a native who, standing on an eminence, waves a flag and shouts at the top of his voice. Leaving Calcutta by steamer for Rangoon, we sailed down the difficult Hoogly mouth of the Ganges; while "west stretched the great delta with its thousand mouths, its intricate net-work of countless channels and backwaters, and its almost impenetrable coast-region, covered with dense jungles, and still the prey of wild beasts, terrific cyclones and deadly exhalations. Here land and water still struggle for the mastery, while unbridled nature laughs at the feeble efforts of man to tame the jarring elements." CHAPTER XXX. RANGOON : MOULMEIN I MERGUIN ARCHIPELAGO : PE- NANG: MALACCA: SINGAPORE. RANGOON in British Burmah, located on the Ir- rawaddy river, 28 miles from its mouth, is sur- rounded by low paddy fields from which is pro- duced large quantities of rice, shipped to all parts 364 A TOUR of the world. This town has a population of 60,000, composed of Europeans, Chinese, and Burmese, the latter being of light yellow com- plexion, slight in size, quiet in manner, dressing neatly, and given to wearing flowers in their hair. In the centre of the town rises a terraced hill from 250 to 300 feet high, surrounded by a moat that can be crossed only by drawbridges, and beyond this is a lake. On top of this hill is the Golden Pagoda, rising to a height of 300 feet, which is the tallest and one of the most remark- able in the Buddhist world, and is visible 7 miles off before reaching Rangoon ; its gilded spire which towers up far above the dark foliage shin- ing in the bright sunlight like a fiery meteor. It is shaped like a bell, and surmounted by a gilded hitee or umbrella, from the edge of which hang hundreds of small bells which are rung by the breeze. At the base of the Pagoda are numbers of small temples and shrines, beautifully carved and gilded and adorned with colored glass, con- taining colossal figures in brass and marble of Buddha, in both sitting and reclining postures; while the entrances are guarded by stone images of elephants, dogs, and other animals, some of which are 60 feet in height. Above Rangoon 200 miles, on the Irrawaddy, is Mandalay, the capital of Burmah, where is kept a sacred white elephant which ranks next to royalty. This animal has a palace of its own, a AROUND THE WORLD. 365 personal chamberlain and 30 courtiers ; besides 4 golden umbrellas, emblem of royalty, and large real and landed estates. Moulmein which is near the mouth of the Salwin river, and on the Gulf of Martaban, is surrounded by hilly islands ; the town itself amounts to little, but from the base of its principal pagoda, similar to the one described in Rangoon, standing on a hill 300 feet high, is one of the most beautiful and expansive views of numbers of islands and knobs, the summits of which are crowned with Buddhist shrines. A most interesting sight to us in Moulmein was that of from 60 to 70 immense elephants at work in the lumber yards and saw-mills carrying huge logs from the river, adjusting them properly under the saw to be cut ; afterwards carrying the long timbers well balanced with their tusks and trunks, and piling them together at a distance beyond, using both head and feet to arrange them in exact uniformity ; every action betoken- ing their wonderful brute intelligence. From here, sailing along the coast of British Burmah, we passed through the Merguin archi- pelago, many of whose islands not only abound in rich tin mines, but have rock caves in which are found the bird-nests that furnish the delicate and expensive soup so much prized by the Chi- nese. At Penang a town of 50,000 inhabitants situ- 366 A TOUR ated on an island of the same name, off the coast of Lower Siam, we went ashore and spent the day visiting its bazaars, and driving two miles beyond the town to a lovely cascade nestled among the hills. Two days later, we anchored at Malacca, a small town of no special importance, except as a stopping place for steamers on the Malacca coast ; and the following day we steamed into Singapore harbor at the extreme south of the Malay Penin- sula. Singapore on an island at the south of Mal- acca, and only one degree from the Equator, is the capital of the English Strait Settlements. It has a population of 56,000, and abounds in beautiful gar- dens of tropical flowers and plants ; and notwith- standing its proximity to the Equator, its sea- breeze renders it more desirable for a residence than other places further north. Here we re- mained several days to pass a warm New Year's, and to witness the out-door sports participated in by both the native and European population. From its fort, crowning the summit of a high hill, is obtained a magnificent view of the beautiful miniature harbor and adjacent islands. On this peninsula, but more particularly in Siam, is found the white elephant which is more of a dirty pink color than white, a phenomenon supposed to be caused by disease a species of leprosy ; besides these, the rhinoceros, hippopota- AROUND THE WORLD. 367 mus and other wild animals abound ; here also are seen birds of brilliant plumage and butterflies of gorgeous hues and unusual size, while in the forests are teak, eaglewood, gum-trees, gutta- percha, bamboo, dye-woods, cardamom, vanilla, and all the spices of a tropical region. CHAPTER XXXI. SAIGON : CHINA SEA : CANTON I HONG-KONG : STRAITS OF. FORMOSA : YELLOW SEA. TAKING the French steamer from Singapore, a four days' sail brought us to Saigon, the French settlement in Cochin China, where our vessel re- mained two days unloading arms and provisions for the army in preparation for the threatened war in Tonquin between France and China. Saigon located 40 miles from the mouth of the Saigon river, is a place of 90,000 inhabitants. It is in the midst of low rice-fields, where both heat and mosquitoes are almost intolerable, and is surrounded by several native villages of consider- able size. Tonquin, though a part of Anam, is under the protection of China; and its occupation by the French will not only give them possession of its 368 A TOUR mines, but will enable them to penetrate into the interior of China. Five days continuous travel over the danger- ous China Sea, and along the coast of Anam, brought us to Hong-Kong, or Victoria, where we immediately took advantage of the night boat going up the Pearl River to Canton. The steamer, a small one, was manned by English officers, and the cabin was provided with fire-arms to be used in case of an uprising or attack from the Chinese. This occurrence is not an unusual thing, owing to the hatred of the natives to foreigners occasioned by difficulties with the English, which incited them to burn the European quarter, destroy mis- sion churches, and threaten the lives of strangers who enter the city walls; a sentiment which is greatly aggravated by the present war in Ton- quin. Arriving at Canton early in the morning, we immediately sent for Ah Cum, a Chinese guide, to conduct us through the city: and procuring chairs, borne each on the shoulders of China- men, the usual mode of conveyance, we set forth single file through the narrow streets on a tour of inspection. Canton is the pride of China from its being the largest, best preserved, and most flourishing city of the Empire. It is situated on the Pearl river, 90 miles from Hong-Kong, and has a pop- ulation of 1,300,000 60,000 of whom live in AROUND THE WORLD. 369 boats on the river. The city is surrounded by walls 20 feet thick and 40 feet high, entered by 1 8 gates, while a large portion of it extends even beyond the walls. The interior of the city is di- vided into districts which are separated by gates that can be closed at an instant's warning in case of trouble. We first visited that portion of Canton built on the island of Sha-Mien, where reside the consuls and foreign population ; then crossed to the native city and passed through its crowded, narrow streets, which are from 4 to 8 feet in width, and often covered over above ; these present a strange but rather picturesque appearance, from the array of board signs, ten feet in length, painted in characters in gold, black, and red indicative of the name and occupation of the in- mate or proprietor; they are hung perpendicu- larly and fastened only by a hook at the top, which in windy weather must render pedestrianism somewhat dangerous. While threading our way through these winding streets, we were followed by large crowds of excited Chinese who, by their threatening gestures and language, showed that we were not at all welcome in their midst, and decided us to make our tour of inspection a hasty one, as at each halt we made on quitting our chairs they pressed upon us more closely and in larger numbers than we found agreeable. The shops, bordering either side of the way, are 24 3/0 A TOUR small and entirely open at the front, often dis- playing handsome goods and a variety of manu- factures. Here we saw the workers in Jade stone, tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, wood, glass, silver and ivory. We also saw the feathers of the kingfisher set into jewelry in imitation of enamel ; paintings on rice paper, embroideries in silk ; opium dens, restaurants in which dog's, rat's and cat's meat is sold, and the establishments peculiar to that edible, in which we procured the gelatine from which the bird's nest soup is made. This delicacy, in its natural state, is suggestively repul- sive; but after undergoing certain processes of cleansing and clarifying, assumes more inviting appearance, and is sold at the rate of $10 per Ib. We next visited the Temple of Longevity ; the Flowery Pagoda, 9 stories high ; the Temple of 500 Buddhas, filled with as many gilt images of Buddha and his followers ; the Temple of the Five Genii, where in front of each image was a stone, said to be the remains of a ram on which the spirit rode to the city ; and the Temple of Confucius, which the Emperor of China visits once annually. In the older portion of Canton is the palace of the Tartar General, around which were native sentinels bearing primitive-looking shields made of painted straw : here also, is the Examination Hall with its thousands of stalls or small rooms for students ; and the Prison, where we saw num- AROUND THE WORLD. 371 bers of men with cassques a large square wooden yoke fastened around their necks, permitting of no possibility of rest to the wearer ; some loaded down with heavy chains, by means of which the body was held in unnatural positions ; and others undergoing various torturing punishments. In the Execution ground, where on an average 365 criminals are despatched yearly, we saw several barrels full of human heads lately severed from the body, and 3 crosses used in crucifying. Taking a boat we crossed the river to the island of Ho-Nan, another portion of the city, to see its temple, where are kept sacred pigs ; to visit the tea-firing and ginger-preserving es- tablishments ; and the Flowery boats, whose in- teriors are finished in marble, and are used exclus- ively for pleasure parties. On the delta of the Pearl or Canton river 250,000 people are said to pass their entire lives on the water. The Sampan, a small boat which serves as their floating home, is fitted up with shrines and a few household articles, and it is a common occurrence to see women, with infants strapped to their backs, rowing them. As soon as a male child is born, a life preserver, in the form of a gourd, is fastened around its neck, as a pre- caution in case of its falling into the water ; but with a girl no such measure is taken, as the life of female infants is held of little or no value. As soon as a child can walk it is put to the helm or 372 A TOUR oar, while the mother manages the sails, which are made of matting. The Chinese fishermen are probably the most venturesome in the world, and are often seen in small boats 300 miles out at sea, wearing in bad weather strange-looking cloaks made of rice-straw and cocoanut-fibre, with straw hats the size of umbrellas. Their boats, both large and small, invariably have two big eyes painted on the prow, and upon being interrogated upon the significance of this, they make answer : " No got eye, how can see ?" The Chinese as a nation, though dirty and superstitious, are industrious and apt; having for thousands of years known many devices which foreigners penetrating the country have appropri- ated and introduced at home as original inven- tions. The upper classes are reserved and observ- ing ; the height of a Chinaman's ambition being to possess a tiny-footed wife. While the women are rarely permitted on the streets, we had the opportunity of seeing several whose feet measured about 4 inches in length ; but the standard of perfection we were told is 2^ inches. The density of the Chinese population ren- ders them conservative, and opposed to improve- ments of any kind that might be substituted for manual labor ; and their history shows one straight unbroken line of a nation unparalleled in many respects by any other. Wheresoever a Chinaman may die his bones are in course of time AROUND THE WORLD. 373 taken to China for final interment ; and their opposition to having a limb amputated, even in the worst state of fracture, is that a cripple is un- able to make a living, and paupers are not tolerated among them. The Chinese religion partakes largely of idolatry ; the Dragon and the Tiger figuring ex- tensively in their mythological legends. Though Buddhism constitutes a large part of their religion, ancestral worship is probably more general ; one of the rites of which consists in sending paper clothes, money, and written prayers to their fore- fathers through the medium of fire and ascending smoke. This latter religion, the most ancient in China, was revised and elevated by Confucius 525 B. C., whose teachings of duty and morality, in public as in private life, from the Emperor to the serf, have endeared him to the people, and whose laws, among which is the Golden Rule : " Do unto others as you would they should do unto you," have come down to us as the essence of honor and of happiness, and have been incorpor- ated into the Christian religion. Hong-Kong, the most eastern of the British possessions, with a mixed population of 250,000, composed of Europeans, Americans, Chinese, Hindus, Burmese, Malays, and Polynesians, is situated on an island at the mouth of the Pearl river. The city is built at the base of a high hill on which are many beautiful residences with 374 A TOUR shady and winding walks, affording fine views of the large harbor. Hong-Kong unfortunately lies within the limits of the cyclones, during one of which, in 1874, 1,000 houses were demolished, hundreds of vessels wrecked, and vast numbers of lives lost. Here we passed several days, visit- ing its public gardens, witnessing the drill of the English military, and, by means of chairs, borne by four coolies each, ascended the Peak to the Flag-staff point to obtain a view of the surround- ing landscape. On leaving Hong- Kong we were accompanied by our Consul, Col. Mosby, in his private boat flying the U. S. flag, as far as our steamer, the "Takachio," of the Mitsu Bishi line, and after a five days' sail along the coast of China, through the Strait of Formosa and the Yellow Sea we reached Japan, and anchored in the beautiful harbor of Nagasaki. CHAPTER XXXII. NAGASAKI : INLAND SEA : KOBE : HIOGO : OTSU : LAKE BIWAKO : KIOTO : OSAKA : YEDDO : KAMAKURA : YOKOHAMA, NAGASAKI, the extreme southwestern Treaty- port of Japan, is a place of 30,000 inhabitants: it occupies a commanding position at the head of a AROUND THE WORLD. 375 romantic inlet which forms a magnificent land- locked harbor ; and the houses built on the side of a hill, rising like an amphitheatre, combine to render it one of the most beautiful places of the Empire. At the entrance of the harbor is the rocky island of Papenberg, from whose summit thou- sands of Christian martyrs were hurled into the sea at the close of the i6th century. A portion of the city is built on the artificial island of De- shima, where the Dutch resided, and monopolized the trade of Japan for 200 years. Leaving Nagasaki our steamer passed through the narrow strait of Shi'monoseki, and into the Inland Sea of Japan. This sea whose 3,000 islands of every conceivable size and form, many of which are crowned with a shrine, dot the surface of the waters, presents a scene of rare beauty, and has justly won the reputation of affording the most delightful sea-voyage in the world. At Kobe which is the foreign port of the adjacent city of Hiogo, we passed the day riding in yinrikiskas a small two- wheeled conveyance drawn by a native seeing both towns and visiting the bazaars. Here our consul procured for us special passports to visit Osaka, Kioto, Otsu, and other places in the interior, beyond the Treaty limits. Starting early in the morning we went the entire length of the railroad to Otsu, which is 376 A TOUR situated on Lake Biwako. This lake is the largest in Japan, being 50 miles in length, and 20 in breadth, inclosed by hills on every side. In this section is raised the finest tea in the Empire ; almost exclusively used by the Mikado, who sends a detachment of soldiers yearly to guard it en route to his capital. While camphor and sulphur form some of the exports of the country, tea is its principal source of revenue. The shrub from which it is derived grows about 3 feet high, having a small smooth leaf, and is cultivated in small patches, by the natives. The Japanese manufacture of porcelain ware, and their work in wood, ivory, mother of pearl and bronze, are of great delicacy and finish, and probably excel those of every other country. Kioto, called the City of Temples, was the ancient religious capital of Japan, and contains over 100 Shinto, and 900 Buddhist temples, be- sides numbers of shrines, tombs and palaces. The city, which has a population of 300,000, covers a large area of ground, and while the tem- ples and tea-houses or restaurants are generally built on the hill-side, the city is on the low ground, and extends along the banks of the river Yodo. The houses are, as a rule, from one to one and a half stories high, and are built of light wood or bamboo, with thin paper walls which keep out AROUND THE WORLD. 3/7 neither cold nor heat, and are generally of such transparent texture, that by candle-light the movements of the occupants are distinctly visible from the outside. The walls and partitions are nothing more than sliding screens of paper, which afford but slight shelter from the wind ; and strict privacy is out of the question as an intruder may enter from any quarter. At night the streets present a singular appear- ance, each house being lighted by a square paper lantern bearing the number of the house, and the names of the occupants. Every individual, after dark, is compelled to carry a paper lantern in his hand or attached to his Jinrikisha, and these often igniting, with the frail combustible materials of the buildings, cause frequent conflagrations. The winters in Japan are severe, and the natives have a cold and pinched appearance, braziers being the only means by which they warm themselves. We visited the Temple of Gion, with its red- painted gates, on each side of which were sentinel figures with terrifying expression ; and the Chionin Temple, probably the most imposing, with tier upon tier of stone steps leading up to it. At the uppermost shrine stands the old Kioto bell, and surrounding it are the tombs of the Shoguns, or former military rulers of the country. The Temple of Kurodani, with its terraced ceme- tery of curious tombs of bronze and stone, was a sight well worth a visit. The Temple of Sanjus- A TOUR angendo or 33,333 idols, now contains, how- ever, about 1,500 life-size wooden-gilt images, and in a shrine to the left is the wooden figure of Dai-Butsu, or Great Buddha, 60 feet in height, and seated on the lotus flower; a former one of bronze having been melted down and coined into money. The Temple of Noshi Honganji belongs to the Monto sect, and is considered the largest in Japan ; it is adorned with gilded panels, paint- ings, and carved wood. At the Kitano Temple we saw numbers of people, young and old, racing madly around the building; a hundred rounds being their allotted penance imposed by the priest, who presented them at each circuit with a bamboo stick as evidence of the accomplishment of their duty. The Minizuka is a monument of stone built over the ears and noses of the enemy killed by the Japanese in the Corean war. The Golden Temple, in the garden of which is a large cedar tree trained to resemble a full-rigged ship, and the Imperial Palace, are other objects of interest in Kioto. At dusk we visited several tea-houses to test the native beverage and to witness the singing and dancing of the Japanese girls; and at night went to the Bazaar quarter, where the shops were brilliantly illuminated, and various kinds of amuse- ments in progress. In one theatre we witnessed the cleverest of acrobatic performances. In a concert hall a girl- AROUND THE WORLD. 379 performer was seated on a circular, revolving plat- form, and as her song ended, a sudden rotation of the section she occupied removed her from view, and substituted another in her place. Occasionally as the performance progressed the appreciation of one or other among the audience was manifested by the throwing of a handkerchief or scarf to the favorite singer, who responded by descending into the auditorium and spending a few moments in conversation with her admirer. At the Drama theatre the stage not only occupied one end of the building, but extended along the sides of the walls. Here we also wit- nessed some curious native customs. In lieu of our modern calcium lights, a supernumerary held a long pole at the end of which was a candle serving to light up the hideous facial ex- pression of the actor ; in place of our elegantly appointed stage, the performer was followed about by a man carrying a low stool ready for use ; in- stead of the shifting of scenes, a change was indicated by the striking together of two wooden blocks ; and when in tragedy, the hero of a piece died, a black cloth was held before him while he rose and left the stage, his nether extremities being plainly visible below it. The orchestra was composed of men playing on native instruments, while others chanted with great emphasis the argument of the play. The audience occupied cushions on the floor, which was divided off by 380 A TOUR low partitions, with small braziers before them. The Japanese play begins in the morning and lasts until the midnight following ; the price of admission being only from 5 to 10 cents. Osaka, which has a population of 280,000, and next to Yeddo, the largest city of the Em- pire, is called the Queen City, or Venice of the East, from its 3,500 bridges, and the manner in which it is intersected by canals. On the Ajikawa river, which flows through the centre of the city, is located its strong Castle surrounded by walls and moats, and erected in 1538 by the famous Shogun Tai-Ko-Sama. Returning from here by the same route to Kobe we resumed the steamer for a trip of 36 hours' duration to Yokohama, and from thence by rail to Yeddo. Tokio, or Yeddo, the present capital of Japan and the residence of the Mikado or Emperor, is situated on the Todagawa or Ogava River, and covers an area of 36 square miles, with a popula- tion of 600,000 inhabitants. Its general appear- ance is that of other Japanese cities, with the ex- ception of one or two streets on which are modern-built houses and horse-cars, showing the inroad of European civilization, which has been in- troduced since this city has become a Treaty-port. The Castle occupies a commanding position on a hill, and has 3 massive walls, one beyond the other, with a moat filled with water outside of AROUND THE WORLD. 381 each. Within the inclosure is the Fukiage, or Imperial garden, which covers several acres ; and here stood the Imperial palace, destroyed in 1855 by a conflagration, which burnt 5,000 houses in Yeddo. From this point we had the best view of the city, stretching with its suburban towns and numerous temples far and wide. We next visited a palace of one of the Daimios, which the present Mikado occupies until the re- building of the Imperial residence ; and the ancient temple of Imanuon one of the most vene- rated and frequented in Japan. On either side of its entrance were two large idols, before which were hung numbers of sandals, the offerings of those whose diseased feet had been miraculously cured ; while clinging to their faces and bodies were numberless spit-balls which were nothing less than written prayers thrown at the idol ; the superstitious belief being that if they adhered, their prayers were accepted, but if otherwise, that they were rejected. Within the temple is a wooden idol whose features are worn smooth by the manipulations of the devotees, who believing in its curative powers, touch first the seat of their own affliction and then the corresponding portion of the idol. Surrounding the temple are various shows, which give it more the appearance of a place of amusement than of worship, and a garden filled with plants trained in the form of men and animals, a peculiarity of Japanese horticulture. 382 A TOUR At Yueno, a suburban town of Yeddo, is a park overlooking the lake, containing a bronze statue of Buddha; and here are buried the five wives of the Shoguns, in tombs richly ornamented in lacquer and wood carvings, and surrounded bv stone lanterns. Tn the Zoological Gardens and Museums near by are specimens of animals and of Japanese art; and birds of fine plumage, among the most won- derful of which are cocks, of the game species, with tail feathers measuring 30 feet in length. Surrounding the Senga Kuyi, or Hill Spring temple, is the celebrated cemetery where are buried the 47 Ronins whose devotion and patriot- ism form a prominent part of Japanese history. The temples and tombs of Shiba, with prob- ably the exception of those at Nikko, are con- sidered the finest in Japan ; and though small in size, are remarkable for their richness and fine carving. These temples which are entirely of wood, have highly polished black lacquered floors, with walls and shrines of the same material in gold and red ; the ceilings are in arabesques of remarkable beauty ; and the wood carvings of birds and animals are truly wonderful. Outside of, and surrounding each temple, are numbers of stone and bronze lanterns 5 feet in height, which are conspicuous adjuncts of the Japanese form of worship. Returning to Yokohama, we took Jinrikishas AROUND THE WORLD. 383 drawn by two natives each, in tandem style, and travelled 15 miles into the country, going at the rate of 5 miles an hour, passing through small villages and rice-fields, with Mount Fujiyama, the sacred landmark of Japan towering before us, to the town of Kamakura, which was the capital of Japan in the I2th century. Near this village, among the trees, is the colossal bronze statue of Dia-Butsu, or Great Buddha ; this figure is over 100 feet in height, represented, as usual, seated upon a lotus flower, and within it is a shrine. Tourists ascend it from the outside by means of a ladder; the thumb alone being of sufficient size to offer a convenient seat. This statue was cast over 600 years ago, and yet stands as a mon- ument of the past. Returning by the same route and conveyance to Yokohama we passed several days in the latter city making purchases of old Satsuma china, and wooden panels with figures of mother-of-pearl and ivory; and at night visited the tea-houses which are its principal attractions. Much has been said of the beauty of Japan, of the elegance of its temples and of the polite- ness of the people Although they have but little to learn of agricultural science, the land showing evidences of a high degree of cultivation, and while here and there one sees pretty bits of scenery, Japan does not compare on the whole with many other countries in point of landscape. 384 A TOUR The religion which was almost entirely Buddhist is rapidly merging into Shinto the religion of the court, and the temples although rich in wood- carving and polished lacquer are small in dimen- sions, and not as grand and imposing as those of India and British Burmah. The rich and pic- turesque native costume is rapidly changing into that of the European ; which the Japanese adopt, together with an imitation of foreign manners, and often with ludicrous effect ; while the carry- ing of two swords a long one for defense, and a short one for hari-kari, or self-disembowel- ment has become almost obsolete. In the time of the Daimios, or feudal lords, a title which now no longer exists, the Japanese were exceedingly polite and obsequious, the lower grades prostrating themselves when addressing a superior, and serving them on bended knee ; but the innovations introduced with the advent of the foreign element have to some ex'te'nt modified the distinctions of rank ; and the lower classes have, in the reaction, become indifferent and self- assertive. Leaving Yokohama by the Steamship Oceanic, of the Occidental and Oriental line, we were 17 days crossing the Pacific Ocean, a distance of 4,600 miles to San Francisco. The most notable occurrence of the voyage was the crossing of the line, or 180 parallel of longitude from Greenwich, from which our steamer AROUND THE WORLD. 385 reckoned ; but as we had been travelling from west to east, we had gained about 24 hours, and in order to have the day of the week and month correspond to that of San Francisco, were com- pelled to insert an extra day ; thus giving us two Sundays in succession, both dating February loth, 1884. CHAPTER XXXIII. SAN FRANCISCO : NAPA VALLEY : PETRIFIED FOREST ! GEYSERS : SANTA CRUZ : MONTEREY : SANTA BAR- BARA : LOS ANGELES I MARIPOSA BIG TREES : YOSEM- ITE VALLEY : CALAVERAS BIG TREES : SACRAMENTO : VIRGINIA CITY : LAKE TAHOE : PUGET SOUND : PORTLAND I COLUMBIA RIVER : YELLOWSTONE PARK I SALT LAKE CITY ! MT. OF THE HOLY CROSS : PIKE*S PEAK : DENVER : GREENBRIAR WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS: LEXINGTON: NATURAL BRIDGE : LURAY: CHARLESTOWN : HARPERS FERRY. SAN FRANCISCO, the extreme western city of the United States of America, and the most im- portant place on the Pacific coast, has a popula- tion of 250,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the end of a narrow peninsula six miles wide, one side of which is washed by the Pacific Ocean, and the other by the Bay of San Francisco, one of the finest harbors in the world, where the 25 386 A TOUR combined fleets of the globe might ride at anchor in safety and with abundance of room. The Golden Gate, which is the only entrance for vessels to pass into this harbor, is a narrow strait of deep water one mile in width, and the forts on either side so completely command it that the entrance of a ship could readily be pre- vented. The narrowness of this passage, cut through high hills, and the great depth of water, give it an artificial appearance, and it is supposed by many to have been caused by earthquakes, which are of frequent occurrence in this section. The city is built on a number of sand hills, many of its streets being so steep that it is im- possible to drive up the ascent with horses ; but its system of surface railroads, propelled by cable or wire ropes laid underground, is not only very general but complete in every detail, ascending and descending the steepest grades with rapidity and safety. San Francisco is said to be one of the wealthiest cities in the world in proportion to its population and age, having been incorporated in 1850. Those who have been successful on this coast, whether in gold or silver mines, rail- roads or real estate, have as a general thing, located here, and built palatial residences, many of which have cost millions of dollars ; while its public buildings, theatres, and hotels compare favorably with those of any on the globe. AROUND THE WORLD. 387 The main artery and business thoroughfare of the city is Market street, along which are located the principal stores and public buildings, includ- ing the Palace Hotel, the largest caravansary in the world, accommodating over 2,000 guests ; the Baldwin Hotel, comprising the prettiest theatre in the city ; and the Odd Fellows' and City Halls, besides many other imposing structures. Driving through this broad and busy thor- oughfare, we stopped at Woodward's Gardens, the finest public resort of the kind on this coast, comprising within its beautiful grounds statuary, miniature lakes, and tropical plants ; while its art gallery, conservatories, museums, aquarium, sealery, aviary, and zoological collections are as complete in detail as any on this continent. Continuing from here to the Golden Gate Park with its magnificent conservatory, we drove through its broad avenues, thronged with stylish equipages, to the beach, where from the Cliff House verandah we were entertained watching the sea-lions upon the adjacent rocks, some lying full length sunning their huge proportions, others gambolling in the water and uttering sounds resembling the barking of dogs. In the centre of the city is the Chinese quar- ter, where crowded into four squares are some 40,000 Celestials ; and in visiting its Joss-houses, theatres, and opium-dens, one gets a good idea of the habits and customs of this race of people. 388 A TOUR The city is healthy, owing to the strong southerly winds ; and although the summer fogs are objectionable, the climate is so equable that a light over-coat is comfortable the year round. The suburban towns of Oakland, Alameda, Saucelito, and San Rafael are on the opposite side of the bay, connected with San Francisco by ferry, and contain many handsome resi- dences. Taking boat and rail a distance of 100 miles north, and passing through the beautiful and pro- ductive Napa Valley, where are located the Soda, and White Sulphur Springs, we stopped at Calis- toga, and drove 5 miles to the Petrified Forest, in which are some 100 prostrate petrified trees ; then staging for several hours over mountains and through romantic ravines, we arrived at the Devil's Canon, where are located the Geyser Springs. These wonders of nature in the midst of a ravine, consist of a series of boiling and cold springs of black, yellow, white, and red water ; some of which bubble up and send forth steam, hot water and gravel high in the air. The favorite and most accessible sea-side resorts are Santa Cruz and Monterey ; the former having magnificent surf-bathing, while the latter has an extensive and delightful hotel called the Del Monte, situated in the midst of a large park, containing a thick growth of cedars and tropical plants and flowers, with artificial lakes AROUND THE WORLD. 389 and fountains. Here are to be found entertain- ments of every conceivable variety lawn-tennis, croquet, bowling, boating, and driving the most popular road being a twelve-mile drive that inter- sects the forest and skirts the coast, affording magnificent views of the ocean. One of the principal attractions of Del Monte is the four im- mense swimming-tanks inclosed under a glass roof, and filled with salt water heated at different temperatures to accommodate all ages and both sexes. Leaving Monterey by steamer we followed the coast a distance of 275 miles south to Santa Barbara, a town of 6,000 inhabitants, lying in a sheltered nook, shut in by high mountain ranges, and enjoying a dry and mild climate. Its popu- lation is largely composed of people from the Eastern States seeking health and a warm climate, and the place has a select and refined society. Continuing our journey by steamer 75 miles further south we arrived at Los Angeles, or " city of Angels," a prosperous and flourishing town, and whose suburban places of resort such as Santa Monica, Pasadena, and Sierra Madre Villa located among the vineyards, orange, lemon and olive groves, which thrive luxuriantly in this section, render a winter sojourn delightful, and are fre- quented by large numbers of Eastern visitors. Returning north from Los Angeles by rail we stopped at Madeira, where we took stage, and 390 A TOUR after a long day's ride over the mountains arrived at Clark's station. Near this are the Mariposa Big Trees, a species of red cedar, probably the largest in the world. The greatest of these monsters of the forest which is now fallen is said to have measured 90 feet in circumference, and 400 feet in height, with bark about four feet in thickness ; the Monarch, one of the tallest standing, is nearly 300 feet high ; and the Wyoming is of such size as to allow of a six- horse stage passing through an archway formed by a hole cut in the trunk of the tree. Resuming our journey by stage, the following day at noon we reached the great Yosemite Val- ley, and halted at Inspiration Point to view the grand and wonderful scene before us. This val- ley is 6 miles long by J^ wide, with rocks tower- ing up on every side almost perpendicularly from 3,000 to 6,OOO feet in height; with torrents and river cascades falling from their summits, and al- most lost in spray before reaching the valley below. After locating ourselves at Hutching's Hotel, we procured both mules and guide, and spent three days riding up the precipitous trails to the various points for views ; the finest of which are obtained from Glacier Point, Clouds' Rest, Sen- tinel Dome, The Three Brothers and El Capitan ; while the Yosemite, Bridal Veil, Nevada, and Vernal Falls, are the grandest and most beautiful features of the Yosemite. AROUND THE WORLD. 391 Mirror Lake at the end of the Valley whose placid waters reflect the precipitous foliage- crowned mountains which border it, well repaid an early visit, when to its usual beauty was added that of the sun rising in slow majesty above the mountain tops and mirroring itself in the calm waters at their base. Leaving the Yosemite by stage over another route we visited the Calaveras Grove of Big Trees, similar to those just mentioned, the prin- cipal feature, however, being one which it took five men with pump-augers 25 days to cut down, and the surface of whose stump has been con- verted into a ball-room where 32 couples have danced at one time. Resuming the rail again at Stockton passing on the way Sacramento, the capital of California, numerous placer gold-mines where whole moun- tains were being washed away by means of hy- draulic power, the beautiful Blue Canon with its numerous points of interest, and after rounding Cape Horn, from whose dizzy heights one gazes down awe struck into the depths below, we reached Reno. Here changing trains, we passed through Carson, the capital of Nevada, and ascended the mountain to the great silver quartz mining dis- trict of Virginia City. By special invitation from one of the " Bo- nanza kings " we visited the Consolidated Virginia 392 A TOUR and California mines. Ladies as well as gentle- men donning the ordinary flannel outfit worn by miners, and each carrying a lantern, we stepped upon the cage or elevator, and sped with the rapidity of lightning down to the 1,600 foot level. Here we saw some of the richest silver quartz de- posits ever discovered ; and miners stripped to the waist, the perspiration streaming from every pore, working in relays ; the heat being so intense that it is impossible for them to continue their labor unremittingly for any length of time. The tunnels in these subterranean regions extend in every direction, and are lighted with thousands of candles, which 'with the railroads, drills and other machinery at work, present the animated appear- ance of an underground city. From, here we visited Lake Tahoe, a lovely body of deep clear water, 25 miles in length, and 10 in width, located among the snow-capped peaks in the Sierra Nevada mountains 6,000 feet above the sea level, where we spent the time delightfully, hunting, rowing, and fishing. Returning to San Francisco we took rail and stage to Portland, Oregon, stopping en route at Sissons, at the foot of Mt. Shasta, and thence through the romantic Puget Sound, sailing among its many islands. We then continued through the Columbia River, which teems with salmon and other fine fish, and on either side of which are rocky cliffs and beautiful cascades to the Dalles ; AROUND THE WORLD. 393 where we joined the Northern Pacific R. R. and journeyed east as far as Livingston, where a branch railway and stage a distance of 60 miles south, brought us to the National Yellowstone Park, in the northwest corner of Wyoming Territory. This Park which comprises 3,575 square miles, and is more than 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, embraces not only the grandest of scenery but the most marvellous freaks of nature ; here are probably 50 geysers that throw a column of water to a height of from 50 to 250 feet each, and 5,000 springs depositing lime and silica, around their borders in elaborate ornamentation and in a variety of colors. The Yellowstone Lake with an altitude of 7,800 feet, sends forth the river of the same name, which after making a number of beautiful falls, cuts its way for 20 miles through the almost solid rock called the Grand Canon, which is 1,500 feet deep, and only 500 yards wide ; and remarkable for the variety of tints in its formation. The mountain range which hems in this val- ley on every side rises to a height of 12,000 feet, and its numerous mud volcanoes show that this entire region was at a comparatively recent period the scene of remarkable volcanic activity. Continuing our journey southward we stopped at Salt Lake City, or Zion, prettily situated near a lake of the same name, and on a gradual slope bordering the River Jordan. This is the 394 A TOUR residence and headquarters of the President and Saints who govern the Mormon world, uphold polygamy, and exact the payment of tithes as in olden times. While the Mormons as a class are very ignorant, the city is rapidly growing, owing to its charming situation, good climate, and adja- cent rich mines. Its great Tabernacle seating 15,000 people, with dome-shaped roof, and containing an im- mense organ, together with the Temple and As- sembly Hall stand out as prominent landmarks of the place. Proceeding from here along the Denver and Rio Grande R. R. we saw in the distance the Mountain of the Holy Cross, so called from a ra- vine about 40 feet deep at its summit, forming a perfect cross, which is filled with snow the year round, and is so prominent as to be visible So miles distant. We passed through the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, a narrow defile with perpendicular walls of rock on each side, rising to a height of 3,OOO feet ; while the railroad bed and bridges are suspended from the rock above, so as to enable the trains to pass over and along the rushing tor- rents that flow through it. Further on we passed Pike's Peak, 14,300 feet high, the mountain which created such great excitement several years ago, on account of its gold deposits; and at the foot of which are the Garden of the Gods, a curious up- AROUND THE WORLD. 395 heaval and washing of rocks ; and Manitou Springs, where are to be found both soda and iron waters ; and which is so much frequented as to be called the "Saratoga of the Far West." At Denver, the capital of Colorado, which is a well-built city with 50,000 inhabitants, we stopped over a day, and then continued our jour- ney, changing cars at Council Bluffs after crossing the Missouri River, and at Davenport viewed the Mississippi, called from its great length the "Father of Rivers." Chicago, situated on Lake Michigan in Illi- nois, with a population of 600,000 and the most important city of the West, is noted for its mag- nificent business houses, and fine residences, which are not surpassed anywhere in the world. The enterprise of its people is proverbial ; as was evidenced by the quickness and solidity with which the city was rebuilt, when destroyed by the great fire of 1871, which consumed 17,450 build- ings, covering an area of 3^ square miles. Chicago is centrally located in the United States, has numerous fine hotels, and is a great railroad centre ; these advantages have caused it to be selected of late years as a place of assembly for national delegations. Its parks and boulevards, especially those bordering on the lake, are partic- ularly fine ; and here the driving can be seen of an afternoon while enjoying the refreshing breeze from the water. 396 A TOUR From Chicago we journeyed east, passing through Indianapolis, the capital of Indiana; crossed the Ohio River at Louisville, and passed through the Blue grass regions of Kentucky, to the Greenbriar White Sulphur Springs of West Virginia. This fashionable resort is located in a basin surrounded by mountains ; the Springs and large Hotel being situated in the centre of the grounds and completely encircled by cottages, while morning, noon, and night, there is a round of gaiety, and dancing to the strains of a delight- ful band of music. At Lexington we stopped to visit the two great colleges of the South ; the Virginia Military Institute, and the Washington-Lee University; and to see the graves of Virginia's two noblest sons and greatest generals, Robert E. Lee and T. J. (Stonewall) Jackson. In a memorial chapel, in the grounds of the Washington-Lee University, is a life-size recumbent figure of Gen. Lee dressed in full uniform, with his sword beside him, cut from the purest of white marble ; a magnificent piece of work, and a life-like portrait. The Natural Bridge of Virginia is a sight well worth travelling thousands of miles to see. It is a solid arch of rock 200 feet high and 90 feet wide affording a safe roadway over a deep chasm which cannot be crossed for miles above or below; while beneath the bridge flows a rippling stream of water ; and this with the surrounding beauties AROUND THE WORLD. 397 of nature are illuminated at night with calcium lights and colored lanterns, producing a most beautiful effect. Near here is Appomattox, the scene of the surrender of Gen. R. E. Lee, with his Confederate army, to Gen. U. S. Grant, commanding the United States forces April 9th, 1865, which vir- tually terminated the civil war that had lasted for over four years. At Luray where we found a magnificent hotel most charmingly situated amid mountain scenery, we visited the famous Luray Cavern, which ex- tends several miles under ground, and is divided into sections or compartments, called the Hall of Giants, the Theatre, the Ball-room, Pluto's Chasm, and Skeleton Gulch, while the electric lights shining through the transparent lime formations of stalagmite and stalactite present a fairy-like scene, and are named, and perfect representations of, the Ghost, the Fish- market, the Saracens Tent, the Organ, the Bird's-nest, the Tower of Babel and Cinderella leaving the ball. Charlestown, the county seat of Jefferson, West Virginia, is noted as the place where John Brown and his six surviving associates were tried, con- demned for treason and insurrection, and hung December 2nd, 1859. Eight miles beyond is Harper's Ferry, located at the junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, with high mountains on every side, which 398 A TOUR with the canal boats, and trains of cars continually passing, combine to form a scene of picturesque grandeur. It was here that John Brown and his comrades at dead of night seized the U. S. Arsenal and other buildings with their contents ; and after taking from their beds the most promi- nent citizens of the neighborhood, held them as hostages, expecting the black slaves to uprise and flock to their standard, in the attempt to gain their freedom. This bold and daring plot proved a complete failure, caused much excitement, and cost many lives ; but was undoubtedly the pre- lude to the late Civil War of 1861-1865, which occasioned so much bloodshed, and was the means of abolishing slavery in the United States. CHAPTER XXXIV. WASHINGTON: BALTIMORE: ANNAPOLIS: PHILADELPHIA: NEW YORK: LONG BRANCH: CONEY ISLAND: BROOK- LYN : HUDSON RIVER : WEST POINT : CATSKILL MTS.: ALBANY: SARATOGA: LAKE GEORGE: NIAGARA FALLS: ST. LAWRENCE RIVER: MONTREAL: QUEBEC: WHITE MTS.: BOSTON : PROVIDENCE : NEWPORT. WASHINGTON CITY, the capital of the United States of America, with a population of 150,000, is situated in an undulating plain on the banks of AROUND THE WORLD. 399 the Potomac river. It is to-day one of the finest cities in the world, and with its broad streets paved with asphaltum, and bordered with grass plots, and at every short distance a heroic statue in bronze or marble of some statesman or general, bids fair at no distant day to be unsurpassed by any city on the globe. The monuments in Washington are so numer- ous that it would fill a volume alone to describe them ; the principal ones, however, are the Washington Monument, a four-sided shaft of white marble, 465 feet high, the highest in the world, costing over one million dollars ; the Naval Monument, erected to the memory of sea- men who fell in the war of 1861-5, a magnificent marble group ; while those of Generals Jackson, Scott, Thomas, and McPherson, mounted on horseback, with those of Presidents Washington and Lincoln, and Admiral Farragut, standing on high pedestals, are a few of the finest, located at the intersection of the streets. The Capitol building, whose corner-stone was laid by Gen. Washington in 1793, stands on a terraced hill 90 feet high, environed by beautiful grounds, and is the most imposing structure of its kind in the world. It is built of white marble and freestone, measures 750 feet in length, and covers an area of 3 ^ acres ; its magnificent dome surmounted by the Statue of Liberty, the grand- est feature of this vast structure, being visible for 400 A TOUR many miles away. At the main and central en- trance of the building, where the Presidents take the oath of office, is the colossal marble statue of Washington ; on either side are figures symbolical of Peace and War, and the bronze doors designed by Rodgers and cast by Muller, of Munich, weigh 20,000 pounds, and are a marvel of work- manship and beauty. In the rotunda are eight large paintings with figures, heroic size, illustrating scenes in American history, viz.: Columbus discovering America, the Baptism of Pocahontas, De Soto discovering the Mississippi, the Surrender of Cornwallis, Signing the Declaration of Independence, and the Resig- nation of Washington ; above and extending all around the dome is the celebrated fresco, which stands out like an alto-relievo of marble figures, and on the ceiling is a group of 63 portraits covering a space of 6,000 feet. The National Statuary Hall, semi-circular in form, is surrounded by 24 columns of variegated green breccia or pudding-stone taken from the quarries near the city ; and here are statues of statesmen and warriors, each State being allowed to send figures of two of its most prominent men : among whom are Washington, Jefferson, Hamil- ton, Allen, Green, Livingston, and Lincoln. In other parts of the building are portraits of presi- dents and statesmen, besides paintings of the settlement of California, and Perry's victory on AROUND THE WORLD. 40! Lake Champlain ; while the Marble Room, ex- travagant in its decoration, the Supreme Court, and the Library of Congress are all well worth an inspection. In one wing of the Capitol is the Senate Chamber, arid at the other end the House of Representatives, where the Congress of the United States meets in session from December to March to make its laws; the gayest and most fash- ionable season of the Capitol is during the session. Other important buildings at Washington are the Executive Mansion, usually called the White House, the residence of the President of the United States, the Treasury, State, War, Navy, and Pension buildings, Post Office and Agricul- tural Departments, all magnificent structures built of granite, which well repaid an interior investi- gation ; and the Botanical Gardens, Smithsonian Institute, Naval Observatory, and Navy Yard we visited in turn, deriving from each both pleasure and information. The Corcoran Gallery, a large brick and brown stone building, contains a varied and valu- able collection, comprising among its statuary the Greek Slave, by Powers, and the Dying Napoleon, by Vela ; and among the 200 paintings, many of which are gems, is the Procession of the Holy Bull Apis, in an Egyptian Temple, by a modern artist. The Soldiers' Home for disabled veterans, located in a park of 500 acres, is reached through a beautiful drive, the principal resort of an afternoon. 26 402 A TOUR Georgetown and Alexandria are pretty subur- ban towns in close proximity to Washington ; in the former is Oak Hill Cemetery, where are the monuments of many eminent men, and the aqueduct which carries the water of the Chesa- peake and Ohio Canal across the Potomac river ; while in the latter is Christ Church, containing the pews number 59 and 46, which were once occupied by Washington and Lee. Across the Potomac, on the Virginia side, is Arlington, the magnificent residence of General Lee before the war of 1861, and 15 miles further down the river is Mt. Vernon, where Washington lived and now lies buried. At Baltimore, called the Monumental City from the number of its fine monuments, we drove through its natural and beautiful Druid Hill Park, and viewed its fine Washington and Battle Monu- ments ; then taking boat down the Patapsco river, made a brief visit to Annapolis, which con- tains the U. S. Naval Academy with its well laid out grounds. Philadelphia, a city of 900,000 inhabitants, located on the Schuylkill river, was founded by William Penn, who came over from England in 1682 with a colony of Quakers, and purchased this site from the Indians for $2,500. Here the first Continental Congress assembled in 1774, and the Declaration of Independence was issued July 4th, 1776; here the Convention which AROUND THE WORLD. 403 framed the Constitution of the Republic as- sembled in 1787; and here was the seat of gov- ernment of the United States until 1800, when it was removed to Washington. The city, which is 22 miles long by 8 wide, covers an area of 130 square miles, and has more buildings than any other city in America. Its manufacturing interests are very large, and while the streets as a general thing are narrow, it boasts of one of the finest parks in the world ; among its principal buildings are Independ- ence Hall, where July 4th, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was read and adopted ; the new City Hall, the Masonic Temple, and the Penn- sylvania Railroad depot. New York city, the commercial metropolis of the United States, and the most important city of the Western Hemisphere, occupies the entire surface of Manhattan Island, and a considerable district of the mainland. It is bounded on the west by the Hudson river, on the east by the East river, and on the south by New York Bay, which opens into the Atlantic Ocean. Its location for a city is an admirable one, surrounded on all sides by water of sufficient depth for vessels of the largest draught, and its population, which is rapidly increasing, numbers now over 1,250,000 inhabitants. The site of New York was discovered by Ver- razzani, a Florentine, in 1524, but was visited 404 A TOUR later by Sir Henry Hudson, an Englishman, in the employ of the Dutch East India Co., who landed here Sept. 3rd, 1609, and claimed this as well as the surrounding country for Holland, by right of discovery. In 1614, a Dutch colony settled the extreme end of the Island, or lower part of the city, now known as Bowling Green, and called it New Amsterdam, but in 1664 it was captured by the British under the Duke of York, since which time it has borne the name of New York City. Broadway and Fifth Avenue are its principal shopping and residence streets, running almost the entire length of the Island in the centre of the city. Starting from the extreme southern end of the Island called the Battery where is located Castle Garden, a large building where all emigrants are landed, we found ourselves in the commercial and financial part of the city surrounded on every side by colossal and imposing buildings, several rising to a height of fifteen stories, with domes and spires even towering above this, and some of them marking the sites where once stood houses occupied by Cornwallis, Howe, Clinton, Arnold and Washington, when the colonies were strug- gling for independence. One of the finest buildings in the city is the Produce Exchange, built of brick and iron, occu- pying an entire square on Whitehall Street, and covering the site of the house where died Robert Fulton, the inventor of the first steamboat " The AROUND THE WORLD. 405 Clermont," which plied on the Hudson river in 1807. At the intersection of Broad and Wall streets, the great banking centre, is the U. S. Sub-trea- sury, built of white marble, in front of which is a bronze statue of Washington, marking the spot where the old Federal Hall once stood, and the first President delivered his inaugural address. On Broadway at the head of Wall street, stands Trinity Church, an old and rich corpora- tion, dating back to 1696, built of brown stone, in the Gothic style, with a spire 284 feet high, from the top of which is obtained a magnificent view, and in its graveyard lie buried Hamilton, Fulton, Lawrence, and other distinguished men. Continu- ing up Broadway, crowded with hundreds of ve- hicles and a surging tide of humanity, we passed some of the finest structures of the city, and paused at old St. Paul's church, in front of which rest the remains of General Montgomery, killed in 1775 in the assault upon Quebec. The City Hall, situated in the centre of a park, around and near which are located the lead- ing newspaper buildings and lawyers' offices, may be termed the legal and literary centre ; and in the Governor's room, on the second story of the City Hall, are the chair in which Washington sat when inaugurated President of the United States, ajid the desk on which he wrote his first message to Congress. In close vicinity are the Post Office, 406 A TOUR built of granite, at a cost of $12,000,000, and the Times and Tribune newspaper buildings, magnifi- cent structures towering up to a formidable height The great East River Bridge, connecting New York and Brooklyn, the New York entrance being at the City Hall Park is the largest sus- pension bridge in existence, and a gigantic and remarkable piece of engineering, deserving to be styled one of the seven wonders of the modern world. The length of this bridge measures 5, 989 feet; the central span, which crosses the river from tower to tower, is 1,595 feet; while the approach and span from the New York side measures 2,493, and that from the Brooklyn side 1,901 feet. The towers on either side, built of granite, rise to a height of 278 feet above high water, and support the four cables of steel, each of which measures 16 inches in diameter and contains 5,282 galvanized wires, to which the bridge is swung. The floor of the span is 135 feet above high- water mark, thus enabling the tallest ships to pass under it; and it is 85 feet in width, allowing a wide promenade for foot-passengers, two railroad tracks, and two roadways for vehicles. This stupendous triumph of engineering was planned by Col. John A. Roebling, and com- menced under his directions in January, 1870, and completed by his son, Washington Roebling, and opened to traffic May 23, 1883; having been AROUND THE WORLD. 407 about 13 years in process of building, at a cost of $15,000,000. Continuing up the city we passed through the Five Points, the London Petticoat Lane, viewing its depravity and wretchedness, and near which is the Tombs or city prison, covering an entire block, built of dark granite in the Egyptian style, where many notorious criminals have been confined. Union Square, which contains bronze monu- ments of Washington, Lafayette, and Lincoln, is surrounded by fine buildings, and is in the centre of the great shopping district which extends up and down Broadway for many blocks. Madison Square, where Broadway, Fifth Avenue, and Twenty-third street intersect one another, is the hotel and theatre centre, and in the very heart of New York city. Proceeding up Broadway we passed the prin- cipal theatres, including Wallack's, Daly's, the Casino, and Metropolitan Opera House ; and hotels and apartment houses many stories high. On Fifth Avenue, the principal street for driv- ing to the Park, are located the Union League and other fine clubs, the Catholic Cathedral, St. Thomas' Episcopal, and Dr. Hall's Presbyterian, churches, and the palatial residences of Stewart, Gould, Astor, and Vanderbilt, the millionaire princes of New York. Central Park, probably the finest in the world, extends from 59th to I loth Streets, and embraces 408 A TOUR 843 acres. It contains numbers of small lakes, magnificent fountains, lovely drives, romantic rambles, rock caverns, and rustic arbors. Here stands the Obelisk presented to New York by the Khedive of Egypt, the hieroglyphics on one side showing it to have been hewn during the reign of Thothmes III., while on the other are in- scribed the victories of Rameses II. Here also are bronze statues of Shakespeare, Scott, Burns, Webster, Goethe, Morse, and Hal- leek ; and various groups add to the embellish- ment of this enchanting spot. In one part of the grounds are the Zoological Gardens, with an interesting collection of animals, birds, and reptiles ; and in another the Metro- politan Museum of Art, comprising a fine collec- tion of statuary and paintings. Within the Park of an afternoon is a constant throng of fine and stylish equipages, and on Har- lem Lane may be seen some of the fastest trotters on record. Among a few of the other points of interest in the city ma)' be mentioned, High Bridge, by which the Croton River water is carried over Harlem River to be distributed in the city mains; Madison Avenue with its superb residences and lofty churches; the Lenox and Astor Libraries; the Academy of Design ; and on Blackwells Island in the East River .the massive structures of the Penitentiary, Asylums, and Hospitals. AROUND THE WORLD. 409 Convenient to New York are many summer resorts which can be reached in an hour or more either by water or rail. The principal of these is Long Branch, where there is fine surf bathing and a fashionable drive which extends for several miles along the beach. The hotels are large and numerous, and the cot- tages, many of which are built in the Queen Anne style of architecture, are environed by beautiful gardens, and well-kept lawns. Coney Island being the most accessible sea- side resort to New York, is the most popular with the masses, and here on a summer's day may be seen from 50,000 to 100,000 persons sporting in the waves, or enjoying the various amusements and attractions of the place. The Hotels are on a very large scale, a truly unique one being built in the form of an ele- phant, 175 feet high, containing 30 rooms, and a hall 92 by 38 feet. Entering a door at a toe on the left hind leg, one ascends numbers of stairs, and traverses various sections of the beast's anatomy, and finally emerges in the gilded how- dah on its back, from which there is a fine view of water and landscape. Jersey City and Newark are suburban towns, with a population of about 140,000 each, and Brooklyn, the third largest city in the United States, with a population of 600,000, is directly opposite New York and connected with the latter 410 A TOUR city by the East River bridge. We drove over this obtaining a fine view of the harbor, and reaching Brooklyn continued through its avenues of brown stone houses to Prospect Park, contain- ing 550 acres, and thence to Greenwood cemetery, where are many rich and handsome tombs and monuments. Taking boat from New York we sailed up the beautiful and romantic Hudson River, the Rhine of America, whose banks teem with legends and historic interest. We first passed the spot where Burr killed Hamilton in a duel ; then Forts Lee and Washing- ton of Revolutionary fame ; Mt. St. Vincent, once the home of Forrest the actor ; Yonkers, where lived Mary Phillips, Washington's first love ; Tappan, where Major Andre was imprisoned and executed ; Irvington, which contains " Sunny- side " the late residence of Washington Irving ; Tarrytown, where Andre was arrested, where Irving lies buried, and the scene of the author's happiest fancies, including "Sleepy Hollow;" Sing Sing, with its gloomy state prison ; Croton Point, above which the water of the Croton river is conveyed to New York by the great Croton Aqueduct 40 miles long, with 16 tunnels, and 24 bridges ; and Caldwell's Landing, where it is said the famous pirate, Capt. Kidd, buried his treasure. Here we reached the Highlands, and passed rapidly by Thunder Mountain, with its beautiful AROUND THE WORLD. 41 I cascade ; Anthony's Nose, a rocky promontory ; the picturesque lona Island, a favorite picnic re- sort ; Sugar-loaf Mountain at the foot of which is Beverly House, where Arnold was breakfasting when he heard of the capture of Andre ; and Cranston's Hotel, one of the favorite summer re- sorts, commanding a fine view of the river and mountain. We landed at West Point, by far the most charming spot on the Hudson, where is located the U. S. Military Academy, including an exten- sive parade ground where the cadets are instructed in infantry, artillery, and cavalry drill. On one side are the residences of the com- manding general, officers and professors, together with the barracks, mess-hall, chapel and observ- atory; and on the other side are the forts contain- ing the heavy artillery, which command the river, and from which point are obtained glorious views in all directions. Continuing our interesting trip up the Hudson we landed at Catskill, and there took rail and stage up the Catskill Mountains. About midway up the mountain in a secluded dell is pointed out the spot where Rip Van Winkle took his famous sleep ; and near the summit are two mag- nificent hotels, the Kaaterskill, and Mountain House, from both of which one looks down upon a far-spreading panorama with the Hudson River running through it like a silver thread. 412 A TOUR Albany, the capital of New York State is, next to Jamestown in Virginia, the oldest settlement in the country, having been a Dutch trading point in 1614. It is built on a hill sloping towards the river, on the summit of which is Capitol Square, and the finest public buildings of the city. Saratoga, a place of 10,000 inhabitants, is celebrated for its famous mineral springs, which attract annually some 50,000 people from all parts of the globe. It has altogether some 25 springs, containing iron, sulphur and magnesia; the Congress and Hathorn, with large propor- tions of carbonic-acid gas, being, however, the most popular. Besides a few fine residences, here are some of the grandest hotels in the country which are crowded to their utmost during July and August, the racing season, and on whose wide verandahs, during the hours that the bands play, the ladies may be seen arrayed in elegant costumes and wearing costly jewels. From here we visited that lovely sheet of water, Lake George, stopping at Fort William Henry, and Rodgers Rock ; thence by boat, and stage to the historic spot of Ticonderoga, and after doing the Adirondack Mountains, and skirting numerous beautiful lakes we arrived at Niagara. The Niagara Falls, are formed by the Niagara River which drains Lake Erie, and falls perpen- dicularly 1 68 feet over a rock formation, of horse- AROUND THE WORLD. 413 shoe shape 4,750 feet wide. In the centre of the river, and on the brink of the precipice, is Goat Island, which is reached by a bridge ; from this point the venturesome, enveloped in water-proofs and accompanied by a guide, go under the Falls, and through the Cave of the Winds, where on a sunshiny day one stands in the centre of a perfect rainbow circle. At night when the colored cal- cium lights are thrown upon the cataracts, the ef- fect is most wonderful, the red light resembling a sea of blood. It is estimated that no less than 100,000,000 gallons of water per hour pass over the falls, which with the whirlpool rapids, and the beautiful suspension bridge below, combine to make a scene of unsurpassed grandeur, which grows upon one the more it is seen. We passed from here by rail through Lock- port, so called from its numerous canal locks, and afterwards taking steamer on the St. Lawrence River, sailed among the Thousand Islands, shooting the rapids, and landing at Montreal in Canada. This is the largest city and commercial emporium of British America, and contains in its public square a marble statue of Queen Victoria. Quebec, the oldest and most interesting city in Canada, is on the north bank of the St. Law- rence 300 miles from its mouth. The old town is surrounded by walls three miles in extent, and the Citadel covering 40 acres, and crowning the sum- mit of a rock hill, is styled the Gibraltar of America. 414 A TOUR Along the edge of the cliff and 200 feet above the river is Dufferin Terrace, ^ of a mile long, overlooking the St. Lawrence and the city ; while in the vicinity are appropriate monuments erected to the memory of the gallant Wolf and Montcalm. Continuing our journey we skirted the shores of Lake Champlain, and stopped at the Profile, Crawford, and Glen Houses, in the White Moun- tains, to see their various features of interest, and enjoy the fine mountain views ; and ascended Mt. Washington 6,293 feet high, by a railway similar to the one up the Rigi. Boston with a population of 400,000 is situated principally on a peninsular extending into Massa- chusetts Bay. It was here that on March 5, 1770, the Boston Massacre occurred when the soldiers fired upon the citizens, killing and wound- ing many people, and here on Dec. 16, 1773, the tea was thrown overboard into the harbor, which was one of the opening scenes of the Revolution- ary War. The business streets of the city, unlike most in America are crooked and narrow, but in the resi- dence and newer portion they are wide and straight, and contain some fine churches and public buildings. The Common, a park of 50 acres in the heart of the city, is not only historic, but the principal pleasure-ground, and near its celebrated Frog AROUND THE WORLD. 415 pond, is erected the Soldiers Monument, 90 feet high, with four statues of heroic size at its base ; while in the Public Gardens adjoining are the statues of Washington, Everett, and Sumner. The Bunker Hill Monument, on the site of the old fort at Breed Hill, is a square obelisk of Quincy granite, 220 feet high, and commemorates the battle fought on that spot June 17, 1/75. The buildings of greatest interest in Boston are Faneuil Hall of Revolutionary fame ; the State House, with its collection of statuary, paint- ings and historic relics ; Memorial Hall, and Music Hall, the latter one of the finest in America, con- taining the second largest organ in the world. At Cambridge, a suburb of Boston, is located the Harvard University, founded by the Rev. John Harvard in 1638, and one of the oldest and richest institutions of learning in America. After leaving Boston we stopped at Provi- dence, the capital of Rhode Island, founded in 1636 by Roger Williams, who had been banished from Massachusetts on account of his religious beliefs. Here are Brown University, an old institution of learning, and the City Hall, one of the finest buildings of the kind in New England, which was erected at a cost of $1,000,000. Newport, the queen sea-side resort of the East, is on Narragansett Bay, 5 miles from the ocean. It has limited hotel accommodations, and its beach is not as fine as that at Long Branch. It 41 6 A TOUR is principally the resort of wealthy New Yorkers, who have built magnificent and substantial houses which they call cottages. The season here con- tinues later than at other resorts, for in Septem- ber when business men have returned to the cities, a round of gaieties is inaugurated which renders this month probably the most enjoyable of the season. Here taking one of the magnificent Sound steamers, we sailed through Long Island Sound and down the East River under the great Sus- pension Bridge, passing near Bedloe's Island, where Bartholdi's bronze Statue of Liberty, a gift from the people of France to the people of the United States is about to be erected. This is the colossal figure of a woman bearing a torch in her up-lifted hand, which with its pedestal when completed will stand 300 feet high, the tallest statue in the world, and with its electric light throwing countless rays many miles out to sea, will serve as a beacon of welcome to the stranger from foreign shores. Viewing from the harbor the marvels of engin- eering skill, and the gigantic structures completed during our absence, we noted with pride the advancement and enterprise of our own people compared with those of many other countries, and hailed with joy our return to New York after a two years' tour, in which we had made the entire circuit of the globe. INDEX. PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Abbey Cambuskenneth, Scotland, 12 " Uryburgh, n 16 " Melrose, 16 " Muckross, Ireland, 5 " Stoneleigh, England, 34 Abbotsford, Scotland, 16 Abilene, Syria, 273 Abo, Finland, 23,000 Russia, Abydos (Ruins), Egypt, 26 Abydos, Asia Minor, 1,000 Turkey, 287 Aden, 5,000 Arabia, 34 Agra, 138,000 India, 342 Ahmadabad, Ain-Karim, 117,000 Syria, 333 246 Aix-la-Chapelle, Albany, N. Y., 86,000 95,000 Germany, U. S. A. 150 412 Alexandria, 212,000 Egypt, 223 Algiers, 60 ooo Algeria, 176 Alpnach, 1,000 Switzerland, 133 Altdorf. 3,000 '' 132 Amber, 3,000 India, 335 Amiens, 67,000 France, 299 Amsterdam, 327,000 Holland, 61 Annapolis, Md., 7,000 U. S. A., 402 Antinoopolis, Egypt. 235 Antwerp, 163,000 Belgium, 58 Appomattox, Va., I, OOO U. S. A., 397 Assioot, 28,000 Egypt, 235 Asswan, 5,000 * 240 Athens, 64,000 Greece, 280 Aussee, 1,000 Austria, 121 Ayr, 18,000 Scotland, 8 Baalbec (Ruins), Syria, 274 Baden-Baden, 11,000 Germany, 144 Badrachin Balloch-Pier, Egypt, Scotland, 2 33 IO Baltimore, Md., 332,000 U. S. A., 402 Bantry, Baroda, 3,000 140,000 Ireland, India. 3 333 Barrackpoor, 1O.COO u 357 27 INDEX. PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY Basle, 45,000 Switzerland, Batrichgarden, 1,000 Bavaria, Bayonne, 28,000 France, Beira, Syria, Beit Jenn, Belbeis, Egypt, Belfast, 208,000 Ireland, Bellagio, 3,000 Italy, Benares, 208,000 India, Beni-Hassan, Egypt. Berlin, 1,123,000 Germany, Bern, 36,000 Switzerland, Bethany, 2,000 Syria, Bethel, 1,000 " Bethlehem, 5,000 it Bethsaida, u Bettws-y-coed,, 3,000 Wales, Beyrout, 100,000 Syria, Biarritz, 5,000 France, Big Trees, (Mariposa), Cal., U. S. A., Big Trees, (Calaveras,) Cal., Bingen, ... 8,000 Germany, Black Forest, " Blidah, 12,000 Algeria, Blois, 21,000 France, Bludan, Syria, Blue Grotto, Italy, Bologna, 112,000 Bombay, 750,000 India, Bordeaux, 216,000 ranee, Bordein, Egypt. Bor Ghat, India, Bosphorus, Boston, Mass., 375 000 Turkey, U. S. A., Boulogne, 40.000 France, Bowness, 3,000 England, Brahmanism, India, Bremen, 113,000 Germany, Brieg, 1,000 Switzerland, Brienz, 1,000 k < Brighton, 1 10,000 England, Brindisi, 14,000 Italy, Brixlegg, Tyrol, 1,000 Austria, Brohl, 3,000 Germany, Brooklyn, N. Y., 600,000 U. S. A., Brusa, 10,000 Turkey, Brussels, 171 ooo | Belgium, Bubastis, - - Egypt, Buda-Pesth, Hungary, 308,000 Austria, INDEX. 419 PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Buddhism, India, 3 J 4 Burgos, 30,000 Spain, Bushy Park, England, 3 Caesarea Philippi, 1,000 Syria, 270 Cairo, 350,000 Egypt, 224 Calcutta, 795,000 India, 360 Caligat, 20,000 Callander, 3,000 Scotland, ii Cambridge, Mass., 6,000 U. S. A., 415 Cana, 1,000 Syria, 267 Canal, Gotha, Sweden, 66 " Suez, Egypt, 300 Cannes, 10,000 France, Canon, Arkansas, Col., U. S. A., 394 " Blue, Cal., 39 1 " Yellowstone. Wym'g., Canton, 1,300,000 ti China, 1 Cape Horn, Cal., U. S. A., Capernaum, Syria, 268 Carlisle, 31,000 England, 37 Carlsbad, Bohemia, 8,000 Austria, 296 Carrara, 24,000 Italy, 202 Carson, Nev. 7,000 U. S. A. , 391 Castellamare, 19,000 Italy, 221 Caste, India, 3*8 Castle Aggershuus, Norway, 68 Asia, Turkey, 294 Banias, Syria, 270 Blarney, Ireland, 2 Carisbrooke, Isle of Wight, 39 Cardross,- Scotland, 10 Chillon, Switzerland, 137 Conway, Wales, 39 Dumbarton, Scotland, 10 Dunluce, Ireland, 6 Drachenfels, Germany, 148 Edinburgh, Scotland, 13 Ehrenfels, Germany, 148 Ehrenbreitstein, " 148 Europe, Turkey, 294 Johannisberg, Kenilworth, Germany, England, Kronborg, Denmark, 65 Munkholm, Norway, 70 Pfalz, Germany, 148 Reinfels, " 148 Rheinstein, " 148 Rolandseck, " 148 Roslin, Scotland, 15 420 INDEX. PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY Castle Stirling, - Scotland, ' ' Stolzenfels, Germany, " Two Brothers, < < " Warwick, England, " Windsor, < Cataract, Nile, Caves, Karli, Egypt, India, " Luray, Va., - U. S. A., Cawnpore, 125,000 India, Chamouni, 3,OOO France, Charlestown, W. Va., 2,OOO U. S. A., Charlottenburg, 26,OOO Germany, Chatsworth Hall, England, Chateau d'lf, - France, Chester, .... Chicago, Ills., 37,OOO 6OO,OOO England, U. S. A., Chillanibaram, - 40,000 India, Christiania, - IOO,OOO Norway, Clarks, Cal , ... U. S. A., Coblentz, 32,OOO Germany, Colombo, - - - - 98,OOO I'd of Ceylon, Cologne, 145,000 Germany, Como, .... 25,000 Italy, Coney Island, N. Y., U. S. A, Constantinople, 1,000,000 Turkey, Constance, 14,000 Germany, Conway, .... 3,000 Wales, Copenhagen, 236,000 Denmark, Cordova, - 150,000 Spain. Cork, - ... 79,000 Ireland, Cork Forests, ... Spain, Cornice Road, France, Coventry, 42,000 England, Cowes, ... Crystal Palace, 6,000 Is. of Wight, England, Damascus, 175,000 Syria, Dan, tt Daphne, Egypt. Daphne-Pass, - Greece, Dardanelles, Turkey, Darjeeling, - 10,000 India, Dead Sea Syria, Delhi, .... 155,000 India, Denver, Colo., 50,000 U. S. A, Dieppe, - - - * - 21,000 France, Dijon, .... 48,000 << Dothan, .... Syria, Dresden, Saxony, Dublin, - I - - 1 221,000 340,000 / Germany, Ireland, INDEX. 4 2I PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Durham, - ... 150 ooo England, 37 Edfoo, --.- Edinburgh, - 2,000 230,000 Egypt, Scotland, 239 13 Eleusis, 2.OOO Greece, 285 Elsinore, - 9,000 Denmark, 65 Emmaus, Syria, 246 Ems, 6,000 Germany, 298 Endor, - ... 1,000 Syria, 265 Epernay, 16,000 France, *52 Ephesus (Ruins), Asia Min'r, Turkey, 278 Escurial, 2,000 Spain, 162 Esdraelon Plain, Syria, 264 Esna, 7,000 Egypt, 239 Estura, - I, OOO Syria, 275 Etam, 1,000 " 256 Feshneh, Egypt, 234 Ffestiniog, - I, OOO Wales, 39 Florence, 170,000 Italy, 199 Fontainebleau, 12,000 France, 52 Fountain of Elisha, Syria, 261 Fijeh, Frankfort-on-the-Maine, 138,000 < < Germany, 273 146 Freiburg, ... 37,000 " H3 Freibourg, - 11,000 Switzerland, 136 Gabbi, - --- 1,000 Italy, 216 Gap of Dunloe, Ireland, 4 Garden of the Gods, Col., U. S. A., 394 Gebel Silsileh, E gyp f 240 Geneva, - ... 47,000 Switzerland, 138 Genoa, .... 162,000 Italy, 1 86 Geysers, California, - U. S. A, 388 " Yellowstone, ti 398 Gezer, .... Syria, 247 Giants Causeway, Ireland, 6 Gibraltar, - 25,000 Spain, 170 Giesbach Falls, Switzerland, 134 Girgeh, - 2,000 Egypt, 236 Gizeh, - - - - 230 Glasgow, - 5I2,OOO Scotland, 7 Glengariff, - Ireland, 3 Gmiinclen, 2,000 Austria, 122 Golconda, 100,000 India, 328 Golden Horn, - Turkey, 294 Gorge of ChifTa, Algeria, I 7 6 " Gondo, Italy, 141 " Trient, - Switzerland, I4O Gottenburg, Granada, 75,000 76,000 Sweden, Spain, 66 1 66 Greenwich, ... 40,000 England, 3i 4 22 INDEX. PLACE Grindelwald, POPULATION 3,000 COUNTRY Switzerland, Guys Cliff, England, Gyswyl, - 2,000 Switzerland, Hadden Hall, England, Halicarnassus, Asia Minor, Turkey, Hallstadt, 2,000 Austria, Hamor, - 1,000 Norway, Hamburg, 290,000 Germany, Hammerfest, 2,000 Norway, Hampton Court, England, Haran, Syria, Harpers Ferry, W. Va. , 3,000 U. S. A. Havre, -.-.-..-- 93,000 France, Hawthornden, Scotland, Hebron, - 5,000 Syria, Heidelberg, 25,000 Germany, Heliopolis, - Hellespont, Egypt, Turkey, Helsingfors, Finland, 34,000 Russia, Herculaneum, - Italy, Hinduism, India, Hiogo, 41,000 Japan, Homburg, 9,000 Germany, Hong Kong (Victoria), 250,000 China, Hyderabad, - 200,000 India, India, History and Religion, Indianapolis, Ind., 80,000 U. S. A., Innsbruck, Tyrol, 17,000 Austria, Interlachen, IO,OOO Switzerland, Inversnaid, Scotland, Irun, 3,000 Spain, lorea, Italy, Ischl, 2,000 Austria, Island, Bedloe's, N. Y., U. S. A., Borromean, Italy, Capri, < Ceylon, G't Britain, Coney, N. Y., U. S. A., Cyprus, G't Britain, Elba, Italy, Elephantine, Egypt, Hong -Kong, Maldire, China, G't Britain, Mitylene, Turkey, Patmos, Pen an g, G't Britain, Philse, Egypt, Rhodda, < Rhodes, Turkey, INDEX. 423 PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Island, Samos, Turkey, 277 " Scio, " 278 ' ' Symi, " 277 " Tenedos, 286 Ismailia, 3,OOO Egypt, 301 Jaffa, (Joppa\ 8,OOO Syria, 244 Jains, India, eddah, IO,OOO Arabia, 302 enin, Syria, 264 ericho, - " 261 ersey City, N. J., - 125,000 U. S. A., 409 erusalem, 36,000 Syria, 247 eypoor, Jezreel, Jonkoping, - Kafr Hauwar, - 150,000 l6,OOO 1,000 India, Syria, Sweden, Syria, 1 270 Kamakura, 7,000 Japan, 3*3 Kandy, 18,000 Ceylon, Kantara, Egypt, 301 Karli Caves, India, 329 Karnak (Ruins) Egypt, 2 37 Keneh, 3,000 236 Kenilworth, 4,000 England, Keswick, 3,000 " 3*7 Kew Gardens, 29 ECillarney, 5,000 Ireland, 4 Kioto, 300,000 Japan, 376 Kirjathjearim, - Syria, 246 Kistnah Valley, India, 328 Kobe, 10,000 Japan, 375 Kom Omboo, Egypt, 240 Konigssee, Bavaria, 124 Lake Biwako, Japan, 376 Brienz, Switzerland, Champlain, N. Y., - U. S. A.. 414 Como, Italy, 142 Derwentwater, England, 37 Geneva, - Switzerland, 137 George, N, Y., U. S. A., 412 Grassmere, Killarney, England, Ireland, 37 4 Lucerne, Switzerland, 132 Lugano, Italy, 141 Maggiore, " 141 Merom, Syria, 269 Rydalwater, England, 37 Sarnen, Switzerland. Tahoe, Cal., U. S. A., 392 ' Thirlmere, England, 37 424 INDEX. PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY Lake Thun, Switzerland, Tiberias, Syria, Traun, Austria, Windermere, England, Zug, Switzerland, Zurich, Yellowstone, U. S. A., Lancaster, - 21,000 England, Lanowlee, 1,000 India, Larnica, - 15,000 Cyprus, Latroon, Syria, Lausanne, - 27,000 Switzerland, Lauterbrunnen, 2,000 < Leamington, 23,000 England, Leghorn, 98,000 Italy, Lexington, Va., 3,000 U. S. A., Linz, 30,000 Austria, Liverpool, - 553.000 England, Livingston, 3,000 U. S. A., Llandudno, 1,000 Wales, Loch Katrine, - Scotland, " Lomond, it Lock port, N. Y., 14,000 U. S. A., London, - ... 4,000,000 England, Long Branch, N. J., Lorelei Rock, ... 7,000 U. S. A. Germany, Los Angeles, Gala., 30,000 U. S. A. Louisville, Ky., 125,000 U. S. A. Lucerne, - 15.000 Switzerland, Lucknow, 262,000 India, Lugano, - 6,000 Italy, Luray, Va., ... 1,000 U. S. A. Luxor, - 2,000 Egypt. Lydda, .... o Syria, Lyons, - 343,000 France, Macon, - ... 18,000 France, Madeira, Gala., 1,000 U. S. A. Madras, - 406,000 India, Madrid, - - -; . - 400,000 Spain, Madura, - - - 52,000 India, Megara, - 4,000 Greece, Magdala, - 1,000 Syria, Magicians Well, tt Malaga, - - 116,000 Spain, Malacca, .... 15,000 Malacca, Malmais-on, - 3,000 France, Manchester, ... 342,000 England, Mandalay - 90,000 Burmah, Manitou Springs, Col., - 1,000 U. S. A. INDEX. 425 PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Mar Saba, ... Syria, 2 57 Marseilles. ... 325,000 France, 181 Matlock Baths, - 5,000 England, 38 Mauvais-Pas, - France, 140 Mayence, - 62,000 Germany, 147 Mecca, - 30,000 Arabia, 302 Medina, .... 20,000 i 302 Medjee Eshshems, - 1,000 Syria, 270 Meissen, Saxony, Germany, 108 Melrose, 3,000 Scotland, 16 Memphis, (Ruins,) - Egypt, 2 33 Mer-de-Glace, France, Merguin Archipelago, 365 Metz, ... - 54,000 Germany, ICJ Milan, - 261,000 Italy, 189 Minieh, ... 11,000 Egypt, 235 Mocha, 10,000 Arabia, 304 Mohammedanism, - 3*7 Monaco, - ... 3.000 Monaco, 184 Monkey-brook, Algeria, 176 Montanvert, ... France, Monte Carlo, Monterey, Gala., 1,000 1,000 Monaco, U. S. A., ii Montreal, ... 50,000 Canada, 413 Montreux, - 2,000 Switzerland, Moscow, 600,000 Russia, 83 Moulmein, 54,000 Br. Burmah, 365 Mount Abu, - India, Mount Beatitudes, Syria, 267 1 Blanc, - France, 139 ' Chamalari, - Thibet, 358 ' Eiger, - Switzerland, 135 Ebal, Syria, 263 1 Everest, Thibet, 358 ' Gerizim, Syria, 263 ' Hermon, ii 270 ' Holy Cross, Col., - U. S. A., 394 ' Kinchinjinga, - Thibet, 358 * Loser, Austria, 121 ' Olives, Syria, 2 4 8 ' Olympus, Asia Minor, 1 Pike's Peak, Turkey, U. S. A., 287 394 4 Rigi, - Switzerland, ' Shasta, Cal , U. S. A., 392 4 Sinai, Arabia, 302 ' Tabor, Syria, 2b 5 Vesuvius, Italy, 220 ' Washington, Vt., - U. S. A. 414 ' Wetterhorn, Switzerland, 426 INDEX. PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY Mountains, Adirondack, U. S. A., " Anti-Lebanon, Syria, Catskill, U. S. A., " Lebanon, Syria, " Little Hermon, White, U. S. A., Munich, 23O,OOO Bavaria, Mustad, Norway, Nablous, (Shechem), 1,000 Syria, Nagasaki, 30,OOO Japan, Nain, Syria, Napa Valley, Cal., U. S. A., Naples, 45O,OOO Italy, Natural Bridge, Va., U. S. A., Nazareth, 6,000 Syria, New Castle-on-Tyne, 145,000 England, Newport, 10,000 Isle of Wight, Newport, R. I., 17,000 U. S. A., New York, N. Y., - 1,250,000 Niagara Falls, N. Y., - 6,000 " Nice, 54,000 France, Niccea. Asia Minor, Turkey, Obersee, Bavaria, Ocean Atlantic, " Indian, " Pacific. - Oran, 50,000 Algeria, Orleans, 52,000 France, Osaka, 280,000 Japan, Otsu, 18,000 | Oxford, 40,000 England, Palatio, Italy, Palestine, Paris, 2,225,000 France, Parsees, India, Pass, Brunig, Switzerland, " Daphne, Greece, " Semmering, 1 ' Simplon, Austria, Switzerland, " St. Gothard, 14 Penang, Penrith, 50,000 10,000 Sts. Malacca, England, Pesth,(see Buda), Hungary, Austria, Peterhof, 8,000 Russia, Petrified forest, Cal. , - U. S. A., Philae, (Ruins), Nubia, Philadelphia, Penn., 900,000 U. S. A., Piraeus, 21,000 Greece, Pisa, 50,000 Italy, INDEX. 427 PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Pistoria, 3,000 Italy, 199 Plain of Esdraelon, Syria, 264 Poitiers, 34,000 France, I 5 6 Pompeii, (Ruins), Italy, 221 Pools of Solomon, - Syria, 2 5 6 Poonah, 91,000 India, 328 Portmadoc, 1,000 Wales, 39 Portrush, 1,000 Ireland, Port Said, - 4,000 Egypt, 242 Portsmouth, 128,000 England, 39 Portland, Oregon, - 40,000 U. S. A., 392 Potsdam, 49,000 Germany, 102 Prague, Bohemia, - 250,000 Austria, 109 Providence, R. L, 110,000 U. S. A., 415 Pyramids of Gizeh, Egypt, 230 Quebec, 35> 000 Canada, 413 Queenstown, 10,000 Ireland, I Rachel's Tomb, Syria, 255 Ramah, ' 262 Ramleh, 3,000 < 246 Rangoon, - 132,000 Br. Burmah, 363 Reno, Nev., 5,000 U. S. A., 391 Rheims, 82,000 France, 152 Rhodes, 20,000 I'd of Rhodes, 276 Rhyl, 5,000 Wales, 39 River Abana, Syria, 273 Canton, (see Pearl), China, 368 Clyde, Scotland, 7 Columbia, U. S. A., 39 2 Danube, Austria, 114 Ganges, - India, 354 Hudson, U. S. A., 410 Jordan, - Syria, 260 Kishon, 264 Mississippi, U. S. A. , 395 Moselle, France, I5 1 Nile, Pearl, (see Canton,) Egypt, China, Rhine, - - - Germany, H7 St. Lawrence, - Canada, 4i3 Thames, England, 3 1 Rome, - 250,000 Italy, 205 Roslin Chapel, Rotterdam, - 153.000 Scotland, Holland, g Rouen, - 105,000 France, 4i Rowsley, - 1,000 England, 38 Sachseln, 1,000 Switzerland, 133 Sacramento, Gala., 30,000 U. S. A., : 39i Safed, - 5,000 ' Syria, 269 428 INDEX. PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Saigon, - 9O,OOO Co. China, 367 Salt Lake City, Utah, - 30,000 U. S. A. 393 Salzburg, - - - - 20,000 Austria, 122 Samaria, I.OOO Syria, 264 Samaritans Inn, 26l San Francisco, Gala., 250,000 U. S. A. 385 Santa Barbara, " - 6,OOO 389 Santa Cruz, Cala., 10,000 388 San Remo, 8,000 Italy. I8 5 Saratoga, N. Y., - 10,000 U. S. A. 412 Schaffhausen, 11,000 Switzerland, I 3 I Scheveningen, Schonbrunn, 8,000 Holland, Austria, 60 120 Sea, Arabian, - 34 " Black, 294 " China, - 368 " Dead, 257 " Galilee, - 267 " Inland, ?7c " Marmora, 287 " Mediterranean, - 181 " Red, 302 " Yellow, 374 Sebastopol, 11,000 Russia, ** 7 96 Secundra, .... 20,000 India, 345 Serampore, - 10,000 M 357 Seringham, ... 20,000 3 2 3 Seville, .... 134,000 Spain, 164 Sevres, .... 2,000 France, 54 Shechem, (Nablous,) I ,OOO Syria, 263 Sheffield, .-.- Shiloh, .... 285,000 England, 38 Syria, 262 Shrewsbury, 25,000 England, 39 Shunem, Singapore, Sinjel, - I,OOO 97,000 Syria, 265 Stsof M'lacca, 366 Syria, 262 Sissons, Cal., U. S. A. 392 Smyrna, Asia Minor, 160,000 Turkey, 278 Sorrento, 20,000 Italy, 222 Sound, Long Island, U. S. A., 416 " Puget, 392 Southampton, - 60,000 England, 40 Spezia, 24,000 Italy, 185 Sphinx, Egypt, 232 Saint Bernard, Italy, 189 " Cloud, 5,000 France, 53 " Denis, 35, 54 " Germain, 17,000 54 " Gothard Tunnel, Switzerland, 143 INDEX. 429 PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Saint Omer, 22,000 France, 299 " Petersburg, 668,000 Russia, 77 " Raphael, - PVance, Stirling, 13,000 Scotland, ii Stockholm, 174,000 Sweden, 7 1 Strait Formosa, 374 " Gibraltar, 171 " Malacca, " Shimonoseki, 375 Strasburg, 105,000 Germany, H3 Stratford-on-Avon, 8,000 England, 35 Stressa, 2,000 Italy, 141 Stonachlacher, - Scotland, ii Suez, 13,000 Egypt, 301 Suk, Syria, 273 Sumt, 100,000 India, 333 Tangiers, 10,000 Morocco, 171 Taniore,- - 52,000 India, 325 Tel-el-Kebir, - Egypt, 243 Tells Chapel, * Switzerland, '33 Tete Noire, < 140 Thebes (Ruins), The Hague, 118,000 Egypt. Holland, 237 bo Therapia, Turkey, 294 Tiberias, 3,000 Syria, 208 Tivoli, 8,000 Italy, 216 Tokio (Yeddo), 600,000 Japan, 380 Tomb of Noah, Syria, 275 Tonquin, Co. China, Toulon, 71,000 France, I8 3 Tours, - 48,000 H 156 Trichinopoly, 77,000 India, 3 2 3 Trolhatta Falls, - Norway, 67 Trondhjem, 23,000 n 69 Trossachs, Scotland, ii Troy, (Ruins), Asia Minor, 1 urkey, 287 Turin, - 193,000 Italy, 1 88 Tuticorin, - 10,000 India, 320 Upsala, --.. 16,000 Sweden, 73 Valladolid, .... 52,000 Spain, 158 Valley of Gihon, - Syria, 247 Venice, - ... 130,000 Italy, 192 Verona, - 76,000 " 191 Versailes, - 50,000 France, 50 Vevay, - - - - 8,000 Switzerland, 137 Vienna, - ... 1,000.000 Austria, 114 Vilvorde, ... 7,000 Belgium, 58 Virginia City, Nev. 12,000 U. S A Vitznau, - Switzerland, 133 430 INDEX. PLACE POPULATION COUNTRY PAGE Warsaw, Poland, 337ooo Russia, 96 Warwick, 12,000 England, 32 Washington, D. C., - 150,000 U. Si A, 398 Wasta, ---- Waterloo, - ... I,OOO 2,000 Egypt, Belgium, 234 57 Wiesbaden, - 50,000 Germany, 297 West Point, N. Y., - 2,000 U. S. A, 411 White Sulphur Springs, W.V. Windsor Castle, ii England, 396 28 Yafufeh, .... 3,000 Syria, 2 73 Yeddo, (Tokio,) - 600,000 Japan, 380 Yellowstone Park, U. S. A., 393 Yokohama, 64,000 Japan, 383 York, Yosemite Valley, 55ooo England, U. S. A., 37 390 Zaandam, - 13,000 Holland, 61 Zug, .... 5,000 Switzerland, 132 Zurich, - ... 22,000 it 131 William S. Gottsbergcrs Publications. ANTON CIULIO BARRILI. CEORG EBERS. Continued. A Whimsical Wooing, from the Italian by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 25 cts., cloth, 50 cts. The Devil's Portrait, from the Italian by Evelyn Wodehouse, one vol. paper, 40 cts., cloth, 75 cts. The Eleventh Command- ment, from the Italian by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. LA MARCHESA COLOMBI. The Wane of an Ideal, from the Italian by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. Mme SOPHIE COTTIN. Matilda, Princess of England, from the French by Jennie W. Raum, two vols. paper, $1.00, cloth, $1.75 per set. Mme AUGUSTUS CRAVEN. Eliane, from the French by Lady Georgiana Fullerton, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. FELIX DAMN. Felicitas, from the German by Mary J. Saftord, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. CEORC EBERS. An Egyptian Princess, From the German by Eleanor Grove ; authorized edition, revised, cor- rected, and enlarged from the latest German edition, two vols. paper, 80 cts., cloth. $1.50 per set. A Question, from the German by Mary J. Safford; authorized edi- tion,' one vol. paper, 40 cts., cloth, 75 cts. A Word, Only a Word, from the German by Mary J. Safford, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. Homo Sum, from the German by Clara Bell; authorized edition, one vol. paper, 40 cts., cloth, 75 cts. Serapis, from the German by Clara Bell ; authorized edition, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. The Burgomaster's Wife, from the German by Mary J. Safford, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth. 75 cts. The Emperor, from the German, by Clara Bell ; authorized edi- tion, two vols. paper, 80 cts., cloth, $1.50 per set. The Sisters, from the German by Clara Bell; authorized edition, one vol. paper, 40 cts., cloth. 75 cts. Uarda, from the German by Clara Bell; authorized edition, revised, corrected, and enlarged from the latest German edition, two vols. paper, 80 cts., clotti, $1.50 per set. Ebers' Romances, 12 vols. in half calf extra, Matthews' bind- ing, in neat case, $24.00. ERNST ECKSTEIN. Prusias, from the German by Clara Bell, two vols. paper, $1.00. cloth, $1.75 per set. Quintus Claudius, from the German by Clara Bell, two vols. paper, $1.00, cloth, $1.75 per set. The Will, from the German by Clara Bell, two vols. paper, $1.00, cloth, $1.75 per set. William S. Gottsberger s Publications. B. PEREZ CALDOS. Gloria, from the Spanish by Clara Bell, two vols. paper, $1.00, cloth, $1.75 per set. Mariaiicla, from the Spanish by j Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 50 cts. cloth, 90 cts. Trafalgar, from the Spanish by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 50 cts. cloth, 90 cts. ROBERT HAMERLINC. Aspasia, from the German by Mary J. Saftord, two vols. paper, $1.00, cloth, $1.75 per set. LE'I'LA-HANOUM. A Tragedy at Constantino- ple, from the French by Gen. R. E. Colston, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. W. VON HILLERN. A Graveyard Flower, from the German by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 40 cts., cloth, 75 cts. Ernestine, from the German by S. Baring Gould, two vols. paper, 80 cts., cloth, $1.50. Higher Than The Church, from the German, by Mary J. Safford, one vol. paper, 25 cts. cloth, 50 cts. The Hour Will Come, from the German, by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 40 cts., cloth, 75 cts. S. REYNOLDS HOLE. A Book About Roses. How to grow and show them ! one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. C. H. LEWES. Raiithorpe, one vol. paper. 40 cts. cloth, 75 cts. OSSIP SCHUBIN. Our Own Set, from the German by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 56 cts. cloth, 90 cts. GEORGE TAYLOR. Antinous, from the German by Mary J. Safford, one vol. paper, 50 cts., cloth, 90 cts. Clytia, from the German by Mary J. Safford, one vol. paper, 5octs, cloth, 90 cts. CARL VOSMAER. The Amazon, from the Dutch by E. J. Irving, one vol. paper, 40 cts., cloth, 75 cts. ADOLF WILBRANDT. Fridoiin's Mystical Mar- riage, from the German, by Clara Bell, one vol. paper, 5octs. cloth, 90 cts. Henry Irving, a short account of his public life. Paper, with frontispiece, 50 cts., cloth, with four illustrations, $1.25. A Practical Method for Learning Spanish, by A. Ramos Diaz de Villegas, in one volume, 121110. Price 75 cents. A. Method for the Idiomatic Study of German, by Otto Kuphal, Ph. D. Part One. Lessons, Exercises, and Vocabulary, large lamo. 536 pages. Price $2.25. RETURN TO the circulation desk of any University of California Library or to the NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station University of California Richmond, CA 94804-4698 ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 2-month loans may be renewed by calling (415)642-6233 1-year loans may be recharged by bringing books to NRLF Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date DUE AS STAMPED BELOW JUL 1 8 1989 MAY1H991 JUN 2 21334 0923 T