iiii,ii;;!;;i!)M!:i;t,;;'>!'!isi; 
 
 ^tUkUiUlM
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 CAFTAll?? WILS©N,
 
 A 
 
 MISSIONARY VOYAGE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 SOUTHERN PACIFIC OCEAN, 
 
 PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1 / QSj 1 /OTj 1/98, 
 
 IN THE 
 
 SHIP DUFF, 
 
 COMMA:.nCD BY 
 
 C.\PTAIN JAMES WILSON, 
 
 COMPILED 
 
 FROM JOURXALS OF THE OFFICERS AND THE MISSIONARIES; 
 
 AND ILLUSTRATED WITH 
 
 5i3ap2;, Cl)avt0, auD dittos, 
 
 Diawn by Mr. William Wilson, and engraved by the mod eminent Aicifts. 
 
 WITH 
 
 A PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE 
 
 OM THE 
 
 GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY OF THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS ; 
 
 AND AN 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 INCLUDING DETAILS NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED, OF 
 
 THE NATURAL AND CIVIL STATE OF OTAHEITE-. 
 
 BY A. COMMITTEE APPOIXTED FOR THE PURPOSE 
 
 By the D'ncfiors of the Mijfionary Society. 
 
 PUr.LISHED FOR THE aENEFlT OF THE SOCIETY. 
 
 LONDON: 
 PRINTED FOR T. CHAPMAN, NO. 151, FLEET-STREET, 
 
 BV T. CILLET, S At ISBU R Y- S<VU ARE.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 r g ^ 
 
 HE impatience of our brethren to gratify the curiofity cf the 
 public, muft plead our cxcufe that the following papers are ar- 
 ranged in a lefs lucid order than we could have wifhed. In collefting 
 from the public and private journals, we have defired to preferve the 
 language of the relator, which, if not themoft polifl\ed> may notwith- 
 ftanding be the moft affe»!:ling. The body of. the journal is. the com- 
 pofition of Mr. William Wilfon, from the. Captain's papers, his own, 
 and the Miflionaries' reports. As there was a neceffity of filling up 
 fome chapters from the journals of the Miffionarics thcmfehcs, there 
 will fometimes be. obferved a change of perfona, according as indivi- 
 duals, or the body, are introduced, fpcaking; but this defeat it ir 
 hoped our readers will pardon. It was deemed improper to alter cuf- 
 tomary maritime phrafes for the fake of grammatical accuracy, \^''c 
 Ihall be truly happy, if tlie information here detailed fhall produce 
 fome powerful. impreflionoa the minds of o\;r countrj'men ; interefl 
 them more tenderly in behalf of tke wretched hcatlien ; and excit. 
 fuitabic efforts to repair the mifcries w"hich Europeans liavc in part.- 
 occafioned, as well as to refcue from deftnK^lion of body and foul a 
 gentle race of fellow-men, who have toward our own nation cfpecially, - 
 expreffed the moil affcdionate attachment. 
 
 475759 
 
 MB SCTi
 
 TO 
 
 THE KING. 
 
 — ^- -«-:t-«)< 
 
 SIRE, 
 
 To whoin can the Miflionary Society fo 
 properly dedicate thefe firft-truits of their labours as to 
 Your Majesty, by whofc order the voyages of difcovery 
 were firfl undertakert, which have brought into view the 
 numerous iflands difpcrfed over the PacifiiC^ Ocean ? The 
 reports made concerning them attraAec;! the general at- 
 tention of European nations; and Your Majesty's fub- 
 jciSts felt themfelves peculiarly intereftecl, whether their 
 views led them to confider thefe difco\'crics as tending 
 to enlarge the bounds of fcience, or as opening a field of 
 commercial fpeculation. A nobler objecl-, Sire, has en- 
 gaged the attention of the Miffionary Society, who, be- 
 lieving CHRISTIANITY to be the greateft blcffingever 
 imparted to mankind, de/ired to communicate that incfti- 
 mablc gift, with all its happy eflfe<51;s, to thefe unenlight- 
 ened regions. 
 
 a a
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 On landing among thefe iflanders, our compaiIion& 
 were more powerfully excited to find their population 
 greatly dimini{lied:pand, through the prevalence of vice, 
 tending to utter extinction. On this account tve conceive 
 it to be our duty to make the moft vigorous efforts, in 
 dependence on tlie blefling of Almighty God, for the 
 amelioration of their wretched eftate; 
 
 Perfuaded of Your Majesty's gracious approbation 
 of our labours, and encouraged by the moft aufpicious 
 commencements, we have determined on rcnewed ex- 
 ertions. Whatever beneficial confequences may refult 
 from the attempt, we fliall be happy to afcribe them; 
 under GOD, to Your Majesty's government as their 
 origin ; and we embrace this public occaiion of offering 
 the dutiful homage of 
 
 Your Majesty's 
 
 Moft refpec^ful and loyal fubje(5ls, 
 
 a HE DIRECTORS OF THE MISSIONARY SOCIETY.
 
 PRINTS. 
 
 General Map ^'■> f"^^ t'g'' * 
 
 Harbour of Rio Janeiro 3C> 
 
 Miflionary SelUcincnt at Matavai 7<> 
 
 View of 1 aloo Harbour 8'^ 
 
 Ifiand of Tbngataboo 9^i 
 
 Gambier's Illancls " '^ 
 
 Marquefas Iflands 1-7 
 
 liland of Otaheite 182 
 
 Great Moral of Oberea 204 
 
 Morai and Ark of the Eatooa at Attahooroo 20& 
 
 Fiatookas of Futtafaihe .-..., 27D 
 
 Fcejee Iflands ^8 1 
 
 DiifF's Group 291
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 »••»?■•« 
 
 Page 
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE i 
 
 Hl/ioflcal Aixount of Otahe'tte — v'li 
 
 IJlmids connected with Ofahc'ite — — xxx\ i 
 
 Tonga fahoo, and the IJlands cowieSIed with it ■ xlv 
 
 Ohittahoo, and the other IJlands called the Marquefas — Ixxi 
 
 Instructions to Captain Wilfon lxxx\i 
 
 »••♦(-•« 
 
 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 hitroduiiion — Appointment of Mi/Jio7ianes and Sliifs Crew — 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Embarkation. Departure from the River — Sta-y at Tortfmouth — ' 5 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Voyage from Fortfmozith to St. Jago— Occurrences there IS 
 
 CHAPTER rr. 
 
 Run fo Rio Jj}uiro— ^.Reception, and Ohfn'afions — — 20
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V, 
 
 Page 
 
 Departure from Rio Janeiro — A/rival at Otaheits • — ■ sg, 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Occurrences on landing at Otahette, and diirmg the frjl Vijit in 
 that IJland — — — — — 5Q 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Sliort Voyage to Elmeo, and Return to Otahelte — — . _^ 82 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Dlvtfon of the Ml/fionarles — Voyage to Tongataloa — gi 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Occurrences during thefrji V'tfit to Tongatahoo . — — g5 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Voyage to the Mar quefas — Dtfcoverks made — H2 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 Occurrences at the Mar quefas — — — 127 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Return from the Mar quefas to Otahe'rte — TranfaSilons durhig our 
 Jhfence — -m i-. — — — — 143
 
 CONTENTS. 
 CHAPTER Xril. 
 
 Page 
 Tranfaci'wns during our Stay at Otahette — Survey to a/certain the 
 Population of the IJland — — — — . — 177 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 TranfaSlhns at OtaheUe to our final Departure — • — — 213 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Return to Tongataboo — Occurrences durhig our Ahfence — — 223 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Defer tpi'ion of Tongataboo — — — — — 2C8 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 TratfaSllom at Tongataboo during the Ship's Stay — . — 27; 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Paffage from Tongataboo to China — — - — > — 281 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Occurrences at China, and Voyage home — — — 305
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 INTRODUCTION — -— 313 
 
 Skct. 1. Face of the Cotiniry at Oiaheitt — — '- — 315 
 
 II, Government — B.an\s in Society — Property • 318 
 
 III. Inhabitants — Men, Jf'owen, Children — Abodes — 327 
 
 IV. Deities of Otaheite — — — — 333 
 V. Prie/ihood and Sacrifices — • — — — 336 
 
 VI. Singular Cuftoms — — — — — -340 
 
 VII. Amufements — — — • — — 352 
 VIII. Cookerv — — — — — —356 
 
 IX. Birds — — — — _ _ 363 
 
 X. FifJiery — — — _____ 365 
 
 XI. Trees and ShruhS — > — — — 36q 
 
 XII. Canoes — — — — — — 36/ 
 
 XIII. Difeafes — — —_.___ 331 
 
 XIV. Comparative State — — — — 383 
 Articles of Faith drawn np by the MiJJionaries — — ' — 387
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE ; 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A GEOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 
 
 OF TilE 
 
 ISLANDS WHERE MISSIONARIES HAVE SETTLED. 
 
 AND OF OTHERS WITH WHICH THEY ARE COXNECTED. 
 
 THE relation which geographical knowledge bears to miffionary 
 exertion is as obvious as it is important. Itfincerc and enlight- 
 ened Chrirtians had been attentive to the magnitude, the population, 
 and the moral and religious ftate of the countries which arc Hill dcfti- 
 tute of the gofpel, it feems impoffible that they fhould ever have re- 
 mitted their labours for the converfion of the heathen. A deficiency 
 of information upon thefc interefting fubjedls is not merely to be la- 
 mented as an occafion of fatal negligence ; it is alfo to be guarded 
 againft as a caufe of error, and of failure, in the conduft of miffionary 
 efforts. If thefeare excited only by cafual difcovcries of the wretched 
 condition in which fomc detached parts of the heathen world exift, 
 other nations are liable to be difrcgarded, which, in a variety of re- 
 fpefts, might be preferable objedts of evangelical miffions. 
 
 For the rcafons which determined the Miffionary Society at London 
 to commence its operations with a voyage to the Pacific Ocean, wc 
 refer the reader to a well-known Memoir, which was publicly delivered 
 v/hcn the Society was formed in September 1/9.5, and is annexed to 
 aa imprcffion of the Sermons that were preached on the occafion 
 That decifion having been made, the utmoft diligence was ufcd to 
 coUedl into a dliliudl and comprchcnfivc view, the informarion that 
 
 b
 
 a PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 was fcattcrcd through numerous printed volumes, or was attainable hy 
 means of manufcript and verbal communications, rcfpefting thole 
 Iflands which it appeared pradllcable to villt in the projc(5tcd voyage. 
 An extenfive compilation of' this nature was put into the hands of the 
 miflionaries ; and feveral maps were conftruiled, to illuftratc the geo- 
 graphical details, as well as to affift the intended navigation ; the ma- 
 terials from which thefe were formed having till then remained imcon- 
 nc<5tcd, or been exhibited only upon a minute general fcalc. 
 
 By an abridgment of the accounts thus compiled, it is attempted, 
 in this preliminary difcourfe, to gratify perfons who may wifli for a 
 compendium of the principal information to be derived from former 
 voyages refpccfting the three iflands to which our mifTionaries have 
 happily gained accefs. Thefe places are defcribed in the fame order 
 in which they were vifited by Captain Wilfon ; and to the account 
 of each is fubjoincd a brief defcriptlon of other iflands with which 
 a habitual intercourfe is maintained from thence ; and to which we 
 may therefore hope the ufefulnefs of our brethren will gradually be 
 extended.* A few general remarks upon the Pacific Ocean, and the 
 countries fituated within its limits, appear neceiTaiy both to introduce 
 and to conclude the whole. 
 
 This ocean, which covers almoft half the globe, v/^as vinknovvn to 
 Europeans at the commencement of the fixteenth century, having 
 been firft {ccn from the iflhmus that connects the continents called 
 North and South America, on the 25th of September ]513, by a. 
 Spaniard named Bafco Nunez de Balboa. Its weftern boundary had 
 been approached by the Portuguefe only two years earlier, Francifco 
 Serranno having difcovered the Molucca iflands immediately after the 
 conqucft of Malacca by the celebrated Albuquerque. To flimulate 
 exertion, and to preclude contention in the rival- difcovcrers from Spain; 
 
 * The general chart of Captain Wilfon's track is neceflarily upon too imall a fcale to afford 
 a fuitable rcprcfimtation of thefe iflands ; but they are ail delineated, an inch to a degree, in 
 enc of the above-mentioned maps, which has been publiflied for the benefit of the Miflionary 
 Society, and is fold by Mr. Faden, Charing Crofs, and Mr. Chapman, I'lcct Street, price 
 JOb, Cd. plain, or lis. coloured.
 
 I'RKLIMINARY DISCOURSE. iii 
 
 and Portugal, Pope Alexander the Sixth configiicd to the dominion of 
 thefe two nations all heathen countries that fliould be dirco\cred by 
 them; and allotted to each one half of the globe, commencing from 
 the wellern limits of Brazil in South America, of which province the 
 Portugucfe had prcvioufly obtained poflcffion. The imj)erfc6tion of 
 geographical fcicncc at that time left it doubtful to xvhkh of thefc 
 hemifphcres the Moluccas belonged ; and the precious fpices peculiar 
 to thofc fmall iflands rendered the decifion important. To afcertain 
 this was the purpofe of the fiiit voyage acrofs the Pacific Ocean. It 
 was planned and executed by Hernando de Magalhanes, who had 
 ferved under Albuquerque at Malacca ; but having been ill rewarded 
 by the court of Portugal, he withdrew to Spain, from whence he failed 
 with five lliips under his command on the 21(1 of September ISIQ. 
 He wintered in South America, and, in the October following, difco- 
 veredthe ftrait which has fince borne his name. He entered the 
 great South Sea on the 2Stli of November 1520; and having ad- 
 vanced northward to the tropic of Capricorn, proceeded in a north- 
 wcfb courfe with fuch cafe and rapidity, that he judged the vaft ocean 
 he was traverfing worthy to be called the Pacific. It is well known, 
 that the prevailing winds between the tropics follow the path of the 
 fun, where they are not diverted from it by heights of land ; and the 
 incomparable breadth of this ocean affords an uninterrupted paflage to 
 thofc cafterly currents of air, which, on account of the advantages that 
 navigators derive from their regularity, are called the trade winds. 
 Magalhanes having croffed the equator too foon to meet with the fer- 
 tile iflands of the fouthcrn tropic, found no place of refrefliment till 
 the 0th of March 1521, when he dlfcovered a range of fmall iflands in 
 the longitude of 14(5 degrees cufl: from Greenwich, and extending 
 from 13 to 20i degrees of north latitude. He named them Ladrones, 
 on account of the thievifh dlfpofition of the natives, which has fince 
 been found univerfal in the Pacific Ocean. Procecdins; weftward he 
 difcovered on the lOth of the fame month, one of the iflands which 
 have fmce been called the Philippines. They form the northernmoft 
 
 b 2
 
 k PRELnNIINAKt DISCOURSE. 
 
 part of the grand archipelago which borders the coall of Afia, ex- 
 tending from 19 degrees north latitude and 122 degrees call; longitude, 
 louth-wcflward to Malacca, and fouth-eaftward to New Guinea. At 
 a fmall ifland of this group Magalhanes finifhed his courfe, being 
 killed in an encounter with the natives on the 27th of April. Some 
 of his fliips afterward reached the Moluccas, the objeft of their pur- 
 fuit; which are fituated araidfl more extenfive illands, in the ift de- 
 gree of north latitude, and in ]2;i degrees eaft longitude. One fhip 
 only of the fquadron, named the Vidory, with a crew of no more than 
 thirty perfons, under the command of Sebaftian Cano, returned by 
 the Eaft Indies and the Cape of Good Hope to Europe, having ac'- 
 compliihed the firfl circumnavigation of the world within a period cf 
 three years. 
 
 Having, by a fketch of this voya^ge, paid a tribute to the memory 
 of Magalhanes, who condu6led an unequalled enterpriffi with the 
 utmoft fortitude and fkill, we can only notice fucceeding navigators 
 in connexion with the iflands to be defcribed. In pointing out the 
 fituations of thefe, their latitude muft be underftood to be fouthward 
 from the equator, if not otherwife exprcffed ; and their longitude is 
 reckoned caftward and wefi;ward from the obfcrvatory at Greenwich 
 toward its anti-meridian. 
 
 The want of a proper gifidc for the pronunciation of names ufcd 
 by the South- Sea iflanders, and the diverfity of modes in which they 
 have been fpclled by w-rlters and compilers of voyages, have long 
 been fubjedis of complaint. The remedy has become difficult in 
 proportion to the extent of the evil. The variety of journals from 
 which extracts are given in the narrative of Captain Wilfon's voyage, 
 has fruftratcd, in a great mcafure, the endeavours that were ufed to 
 adopt an uniform and diftinft orthography throughout the volume. 
 Whether the attempt made for that purpofc, in compiling the prc- 
 fcnt introductory difcourfe, is more fuccefsful, mull be left to the 
 decifion of the reader. His attention is rcquciled to the following 
 mlcs of pronunciation, in which the genius of the language that is
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. r 
 
 common to the places defcribcd, and the cflabUlhcd orthography of 
 thofe names which have become moft tamihar, have been reciprocally 
 confultcd. 
 
 ill. When afmgle vowel forms or clofes a fyllablc, 
 a is founded as in father ; 
 e as in equal; 
 
 as in open ; 
 
 K as in dui\. 
 
 2dly. When two vowels come together, 
 
 ae has the fame found v^-ith the adverb ay\ 
 at is founded as mfa'il; 
 ail as in autumn ; 
 
 c'l has the found of / long ; for which this improper diphthong 
 has, from the firft, been fubllituted in names that are now 
 become too flxmiliar to be altered, as in Otahette, E'lnieo,. 
 
 HuaJie'nte, &c. 
 CO is founded as in the adverb too, for a fimilar reafon ; 
 OH as in our; and 
 
 oe has the fame found with oy in Engiifli words, as joy, Szc. 
 
 All other combinations of vowels are to be pronounced, according 
 to the preceding rules, in diftin(5l iyllables. 
 
 3dly. When any fmgle vowel is followed, in the fame fyllablc, by 
 a confonant, it has its lliortcft found ; as in matter, gift, otter, 
 upward. 
 
 ■4thly. Every confonant, fmgle vowel, or diphthong, uniformly re- 
 tains a diftintt and appropriate found, fubjedl to the preceding 
 rules. The letters w and^' are therefore ufed only as confonants; 
 g is always hard ; and th is always founded as in think. The e is 
 never mute. Thus Otaheile is to be pronounced fo as to rhyme 
 with the adjed;ivc mighty. 
 
 stilly. That fy liable on which the llrongeft emphafis ii to bc. 
 placcd is marked as a long f) liable (fo Tongatahoo, Ohtttahoo) 
 when the words firft occur : but this diftindion, agreeably to
 
 vi- PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 Rule 4th, indicates no other change in the found of the vowels 
 
 over which it is placed. 
 It appears ncccffary farther to remark, that, as the differtations 
 which form the Appendix of this volume, contain a copious defcrip- 
 tion of the natural and cWil ftate of Otaheitc, nothing relative to that 
 ifland is requifite here, but a hiftory of tranfadlions that occurred previ- 
 ous to the -voyage of the Duff. A prior perufal of the differtations will 
 therefore te ufeful to thofe of our readers who defire to have in vicv»' 
 tlie circumllanccs and eftablillied cuftoms of the natives, while they 
 purfuc the hiftory. It may alfo affift to underffand the brief tlcfcrip- 
 tions here given of the other iflands, in which, to avoid tautology, the 
 points wherein they vary from Otaheite are principally infiftcd on. 
 The concifenefs that was indifpenfable, precluded obfervations which 
 naturally refult from the various fa^ts that are mentioned in the fol- 
 lowing account ; but we hope that this deficiency will be fupplied 
 by the refle<5lions of our ferious readers. From a comparifon between 
 the feveral parts of this volume, it will probably be acknowledged, 
 in general, that additional demonfi:ration is afforded to fome v-ery im- 
 portant truths : fuch arc — the infufficiency of every natural enjoyment 
 to eftablifh the real welfare of mankind ; the tendency of an unre- 
 ftrained gratification of appetites and paffions to produce horrid and 
 deftrudivc crimes ; the advantages for which the moft civilized na- 
 tions arc in reality indebted to the gofpel ; and the far greater blef- 
 fmgs that arc derived from the fame fource by them who enter into 
 the fpirit and power of chriflianity.
 
 PRFXIMINAIIY DISCOURSE. vil 
 
 Hi/lor'ical Jccount of Otalie'ite. 
 
 FREQUENT as the intcrcourfc of Europeans with the natives of 
 this illand has been for the lall thirty years, it Is uncertain whether 
 any interview between them had occurred at an earher period. While 
 the identity of various iilands \ ifited by modern navigators, with the 
 early difcoverles of the Spaniards, has beai indubitably proAcd, it is 
 barely probable that Otaheitc was feen by Pedro Fernandez dc Quiros 
 in lOoO. He had failed with two Ihlps from Lima in Peru, to fearch 
 for a continent, which he fuppofed to exilt in the neighbourhood of 
 feveral iflands that had been difcovered by him in a voyage performed 
 eleven years before. For this purpofe he proceeded fouthward to the 
 27th degree of latitude ; but meeting only with a few low iflands, he 
 returned into the latitude of his former difcoverles, and on his Avay 
 fell in with jm illand, 1 1th February, which, on account of the curve 
 defcribed by its fliores, he named Sagittarla. His fmaller vclltl an- 
 chored in a bay on the fouth coaft ; but the boats were prevented 
 landing by the furf which beat upon the reefs. A young man, named 
 Franclfco Ponce, fwam with much hazard to a rock, where the iflanders 
 met and carefled him ; others of the Spaniards, imitating the fplrlted 
 example of Ponce,, were equally well received. When they fwam back, 
 to the boats, they were accompanied by feveral of the natives, who,- 
 after having fome prefents made to them, returned, well pleafed, to 
 their comrades on fliore. The next dc^ the Spaniards, having hauled 
 their boats over the reef, landed, widiout feeing any of the inhabi- 
 tants ; they proceeded through a thick w'ood (in which they found a 
 morae, and eredled a crucifix) toward a bay upon the oppofite fide of 
 the ifland. They could obtain no frefli water in a plain which they 
 fearched for it ; but refrefhed themfelves with the milk of cocoa-nuts, 
 which grew there abundantly. Loaded with this fniit, they returned.
 
 Tlit PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE, 
 
 to the laii'-ling-place, in water up to their knees, along the meadctr, 
 over which the tide had flowed ; they rc-embarked however without 
 difficulty, a paflage through the reef having been found for the boats ; 
 and a very aged woman, whom they had met in the woods, willingly 
 accompanied them to the fhips, where flie was clothed and fed. When 
 fhe was fent back to fliore, fhe dire<5ted the Spaniards to fome of her 
 countrymen, who were occupied with their canoes. The iflanders be- 
 haved amicably; and fome of them, with their chief, ventured to go off 
 M'ith feveral Spaniards in the boat ; but being fuddenly alarmed, they 
 leaped into the fea, except the chief, who was detained by force till they 
 reached Quiros's fhip. They could not perfuadc him to go on board ;• 
 and therefore, having made him fome prcfents, fent back the boat with 
 him. The few Spaniards who remained onfhore had been furroundcd, 
 and threatened, by more than a hundred of the natives, armed with 
 fpcars and clubs. Upon the fafe return of the chief, a pcrfed; recon- 
 ciliation took place; and they parted very amicably, the natives pro- 
 ceeding toward a fmall iflet. They are defcribed as of a mulatto 
 colour, well made, and defiiitute of clothing, except the women, who 
 were covered from the waift downward with cloth made of bark. 
 
 Q.uiros coafted this ifland to the north-wefl the following day, and 
 at noon obferved the latitude to be 17° 4o'. This coincides with the 
 wcftern fide of Otaheitc ; but the filence of Quiros refj^eding the 
 ifland of Eimeo, which would have been in fight from thence, is 
 perfc<^Uy imaccountable, and in\-ol\es the identity ol' Otahcite with 
 the Sagittaria of Quiros in much doubt. On the other hand, the 
 place where the Spaniards landed, agrees very well witli the ifihmus 
 by which the two pcninfulas of Otaheitc are conncO-ted. The pre- 
 ceding account will enable our readers to form their own fentiments 
 upon a fubjeil of which different judgments have been adopted by re- 
 fpc6tabl-e geographers. 
 
 Captain Wall is, in his Majefly's fhip Dolphin, difcovercd Otalieite 
 on the ]C)thof.[une l/fV;. The veffel being clofl; to the fouth-cuft 
 Guti of the ifland, \^•as furrounded by a great number of canoes, with
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. ii 
 
 more than eight hundred people on board : they, in gcfKra!, hchvLVcA 
 amicably, excepting that they Hole every thing they could fcizc. 
 Thcfc pra entices brought on a flight fkirmifli, b\it peace was foon ap- 
 parently eftablilhcd. Captain Wallis fucceedcd in getting to wind- 
 ward of the ifland during the night, and the next day failed along the 
 callern coall. On the following he anchored near the north-cafteru 
 fliore : and his boats being employed in founding, were attacked by 
 the iflanders, one of whom was killed, and another wounded in the 
 conteil. Traffic was notwithftanding fpccdily reftored. The native 
 women ufed the moft fliamelcfs enticements to induce the failors to 
 land, but they had the precaution not to quit their boats ; and fomc 
 fmall cafivs, which they cntruftcd to the iHandcrs to procure frelTi 
 water, were ftolcn by tlicm. 
 
 Captain Wallis having weighed anchor on the 23d, diicovcred the 
 bay which is formed by the coaft of Mattavae, tlK northcrnmoft dif- 
 tridl of the ifland. Having doubled its north-caftcrn cape, fincc called 
 Point Venus, the Dolphin llruck upon a coral rock which is detached 
 from the reef that borders the coaft. The fhip remained immoveable 
 almoft an hour, and was then unexpcftedly relieved by a breeze which 
 fprung up from the Ihorc. The native?, in many hundred canoes, 
 waited around to fee the event, which was likclv to have been attended 
 with the entire dcflruftion of the crew. They anchored, however, 
 foon afterward in the bav, and the veiTcl was found to have received 
 little damage. The following day, while warping nearer to the fhorc, 
 they were attacked bv a multitude of lar2;e canoes, and fliowcrs of 
 heaA-y lloncs w^erc poured in every direcfion upon the fliip. The 
 iflanders renewed the aflault, even when they had been repulfed by the 
 great guns ; bv;t after repeated experience of their dcftrudive effects, 
 they difpcrfcd, and fled to the mountains. 
 
 The fliip having been moored abrcalt of the ri\er of Mattavae, 
 lieutenant Furneaux landed, and without oppofition cretlcd a Britilh 
 pendant on the fhorc, and formally took pofleflion of the ifland in tl;e 
 naruc of his own fovcreign. Tliis is a ceremony which has been con- 
 
 c
 
 X PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 continued frotn the period when it was fuppofed that the, pope had a 
 right to difpofe of all countries inhabited by heathens. Whatever idea 
 ■the inlanders formed of this tranfadlion, they did not fuffcr the flag to 
 remain till the following day. Oammo, who at that time governed 
 the larger peninfula of Otahcite in behalf of his fon Temarre, caufed 
 it to be taken away during the night ; and it was ufed long after as 
 a kind of drefs which conftitutes the badge of royalty. The next 
 morning a party of failors were compelled by the natives to retire from 
 the river, to which they had been fcnt for frcfli water ; but the crowd 
 being difperfed by the fhip's guns, and many of their canoes being 
 demolifhed by way of punifliment, they gave up their attempts at 
 refiftance, and from that time became peaceable and docile. Oammo 
 retired from the fcene, probably left the Englifli fliould revenge upon 
 his perfon the affaults they had fuftained. His confort Oberea (or 
 Poorea) had been feparated from him after the birth of Temarre, ap- 
 parently on account of her reludlance to deftroy the child. Her au- 
 thority was not diminifhed by their feparation, and fhe exercifed it in 
 affording the moft hofpitable reception to Captain Wallis and his 
 people, many of whom were much reduced by illnefs. Thefe were 
 ftationed on fhore, and a regular traffic was eftabliflied for frefli provi- 
 fions. It was however, foon interrupted, and great inconvenience 
 produced, by the licentious intercourfe of the crew with the female 
 iflanders. This was unlikely to be checked by Oberea, whofe charac- 
 ter for fenfuality exceeded even the ufual ftandard at Otaheite, At this 
 time flic cohabited with Toopaea, who had fled from his native place, 
 Ulietea, and had been appointed chief prieft at this ifland. He excelled 
 all the South-Sea illanders that have been known, for information and 
 fagacity ; and diftinguifhed himfelf very early by his inquifitive difpo- 
 fition, and his aptnefs to imitate the manners of the Englifli. An 
 elderly man, of inferior rank, named Owhau, hkewife rendered hini- 
 fclf remarkable and ufeful, by his friendly attention to the navigators, 
 and the prudence with which he negotiated between them and his 
 countrymen. Under his guidance Mr. Gore made fome progrefs into
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. rU 
 
 the interior of the illand ; and v\ hen provifions became fcarce at Mat- 
 tavac. Ovvhau procured them from other diftrld?. Ample fupphcs 
 having been o'btained, and the health of the fliip"? company being 
 rc-eftablllhed, Captain Wallis failed on the 27th of July. He requited 
 the hofpitality of Oberca with a variety of prefents ; among which 
 were turkies, a gander and goofe, and a cat ; with many iron utenfils, 
 which the natives were eager to obtain, having learned the ufe of them 
 from a neighbouring low ifland, named Tappoohoe, where a Dutch 
 fhip, belonging to Roggewein's fquadron, had been wrecked forty-fue 
 years before. 
 
 Early in April, 1/08, Otahcite was again vifited by Europeans. 
 M. de Bougainville, in the Boudeufe frigate, accompanied by a ftorc- 
 Ihip, coafted this ifland to the eallward, as Wallis had done ; but 
 was deterred from doubling Point Venus, by the appearance of the reef 
 which enclofes it. A timid caution, which moft of the French navi- 
 gators have betrayed when at fea, expofed M. de Bougainville to the 
 inconvenience of anchoring within a reef on the windward fide of the 
 ifland. He was amicably received by Orette, chief of Pledea, the 
 diflri(5l v\ here the fliips were moored. This pcrfon's brother, Outooroo, 
 attached himfelf to the commander immediately upon his arrival, and 
 afterward accompanied him to France. The father of thcfe young 
 men, Owahou, and fome other principal people of the dlftricl:, ob- 
 je6led, however, to the fick perfons being landed from the fliips, till 
 an aflAirance was given that they would not remain many days. 
 
 M. de Bougainville was foon vifited by Tootaha, youngcft brother 
 of Oammo, who prefided over the wefternmoft diftrids of the ifland. 
 He was accompanied by fcvcral others of the royal family, whole 
 fuperior fliature difliinguilhed them from the reft of the company. It 
 does not appear that Oammo, or Oberca, wliofc ufual relidcnce was at 
 the fouthernmofl; part of the larger peninfula, Aifited Hcdta during 
 the ftay of the French, which lafted only eight days. It was appa- 
 rently rendered the more pacific, in confequencc of the experience the 
 Iflanders had derived from Captain Wallls's viflt, whom they fuppofed 
 
 c2
 
 xli PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 to have come from the fame country as M. de Bougahiville. They 
 iuppUcd abundance of provifions, and willingly affiftcd the v/orking 
 parties from the fhips, but availed themfelves of ev.ery opjjortunity to 
 pilfer. Scnfuality feems to have been pratflifed with ftill greater in- 
 decency than before, and feveral murders were privately committed 
 by the French failors, notwithilanding the hofpitality with which 
 they were entertained. A woman who had failed from France with 
 the crew, difguifed in man's apparel, was detected by the natives upon 
 her landing. Accuflomed to fee the foxes clothed alike, they imme- 
 diately perceived the difference of her fhape ; but they conceived mean 
 ideas of European beauty from her countenance. 
 
 The French vcITels failed 14th April, after the lofs of fcveral an- 
 chors, their cables having been cut afunder by the coral rock. Within 
 a few weeks afterwards M. de Bougainville found that feveral people 
 on board, and Outooroo himfelf, were infected with the venereal dif- 
 eafe. Captain Wallis feems to have been peculiarly attentive to the 
 ftate of his fliip's company, and pofitively aflerts that they were en- 
 tirely free. from every lymptom of this diforder fix months before, and 
 flill longer after their vifit at Otaheite. The accounts of the illanders 
 Tefpedling their previous knowledge of the complaint, are confufcd 
 and contradidiory. The prefent exiflcnce, and the general prevalence 
 of the evil, are but too obvious ; and it concurs with other dreadful 
 efFedls of fenfuality, to threaten the entire depopulation of this beauti- 
 ful ifland, if it be not feafonably averted by the happy influence of the 
 gofpel. 
 
 Subfequent to M. de Bougainville's departure, a revolution occurred 
 in the government of Otaheite, the efFed:s of which proved to be per- 
 manent and important. The whole ifland at that time acknowledged 
 the fovereignty of Temiirre. The fmaller peninfula, called Teiarraboo, 
 was governed by an elderly man named Wahcadooa, dillantly related 
 to the king. The larger peninfula has ufually been diflributed intO' 
 three principal governments, each of which included feveral fubov- 
 dinato diflri(its : they were then fubjc(5l to three brothers, Oammo>
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xiit 
 
 Tootaha, cinJ Happac ; the latter prcfiding over the northern and 
 caftcrn diftridls, which arc collcdively named Tepirreonoo. Tootaha, 
 w ho polTcflcd confidcrablc talents, and was aftuatcd by a reftlcfs am- 
 bition, confptrcd with Waheadooa to wrcfl the government of the 
 ifland from Oammo and Oberea ; and to transfer the royal dignity 
 from their fbn to Otoo, the fon of Hiippae, during whofc minority 
 the condudl of public affairs was to be committed to Tootaha, This 
 plot could not elude the penetration of Toopaca ; and he ufed all his 
 intcreft with Oberea to fruftrate it in time, by putting Tootaha ta 
 death. He did not, however, prevail with her to confent to fo violent 
 a meafurc ; and when he found the cxplofion ready to burft, he fled 
 to the interior mountains for his pcrfonal fafcty. Waheadooa, ftimu- 
 lated by the dcfire of becoming wholly independent of the larger 
 peninfula, paffed the iffhmus with his army, and defeated that which- 
 Oammo had colleftcd to oppofc him. Tootaha, at the fame time, 
 with the forces of Attahooroo and Tcttaha, attacked from the weft- 
 ward the dirtricft of Pappara, Oammo's rcfidence ; and carried off, 
 from the great morae at that place to another in Attahooroo, the 
 peculiar enfigns of the regal and facerdotal offices. The grand cere- 
 monies which are attended with human facrifices, were therefore per- 
 formed at the morae of Attahooroo for many years after that event. 
 This diftri<5l being one of the largcft and moft fertile in the ifland, and 
 conftantly gaining ftrength by affording proteftion to fugitives from 
 other quarters, was too powcrfvil to be fpeedily dilpofleffcd of its ac- 
 qtiifitions. Tootaha had cftablilhed himfclf in the regency, and rcfidcd 
 at Oparre, the hereditary dlftridl of the new fovereign Otoo, when 
 Lieutenant Cook, in the Endeavour, anchored in the adjacent bay of 
 Mattavac, 12th April, 17O9. His objeds were to obferve the ap- 
 proaching tranflt of the planet Venus over the difk of the fun, and to 
 renew the fcarch whi<;h Quiros had fct on foot in the laft century, for 
 a continent fuppofcd to exifl in the fouthern part of the Pacific Ocean. 
 The Endeavour was immediately vifitcd by crowds of the natives, 
 among whom Owhau was recognifcd by Mr, Gore and others who had
 
 xiv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 failed ^yitIl Wallis. His affiflance was again found ufeful in the traffic 
 which commenced, under proper regulations, with his countrymen ; 
 and in appeafmg their refentment, when it was excited by the death 
 «f one of them, too haftily inflidied in confequcnce of their thefts. A 
 imall fort was erected near the northernmoft point of the illand, which 
 now received the name of Point Venus, on account of the obferva- 
 tions that were made upon that planet the 3d of June. At the fame 
 time a party was fent to the neighbouring ifland of Eimeo, to obferve 
 the traniit from thence. Lieutenant Cook afterwards made a furvey 
 of Otaheite, in which he was accompanied by Mr. (now Sir Jofeph) 
 Banks, who had failed in the Endeavour with a view to the advance- 
 ment of natural hiftory. They met with Waheadooa and his fon, 
 then about thirteen years of age, at Teiarraboo, and found that penin- 
 fula in a flourifliing condition. Its inhabitants boafhed of their mili- 
 tary prowefs and fuccefs ; of which they poffeffed many trophies, and 
 among others, the turkey-cock and the goofe which Captain Wallis 
 had given to Oberea. The Englifli were every where holpitably 
 treated, excepting the depredations which they fuffered from the 
 thievifh genius of the natives. The fame lewdnefs was perpetrated as 
 on former occafions ; and, to avoid loathfome repetitions, we fliall 
 generally omit to mention it in future. Thcfe practices at times in- 
 terrupted the harmony which ufually fiibfilled between the navigators 
 and the iflandcrs ; but it was almoft wholly deftroyed previous to 
 their fcparation. Two marines having dcferted from the fhip, Cook 
 ventured to confine Tootaha and feveral other principal perfons till 
 the dcfcr-ters fliould be brought back. The natives by way of reta- 
 liation fcized upon fome Englilhmen ; but being ordered by Tootalia 
 to furrcnder them and the defertcrs to the commander, he in return 
 feleafcd his royal captives, and their fricndfliip was apparently re- 
 newed. Among the- principal acquaintance formed by the Englilh in 
 this voyage, befldc thofe already mentioned, were Potatto, a chief of 
 Attahooroo, and Tooboorac Tamaede of Mattavac ; both of whom 
 were dctc<5ted in thefts, although among thc>mofl: rcfpcdablc pfcrfons
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xv 
 
 in tho ifland. Toopaca, having loft his influence by the revolution, 
 and being deicrted by Oberea for a younger gallant, left Otahcitc in 
 tlie Endeavour, 12th July, and died at Batavia, on the paffage of the 
 fliip to Europe. 
 
 Tootaha had obtained a great quantity of curious and ufcful articles 
 from his European guefts, and he availed himfelf of thcfe acquifitions 
 to inrreafe his influence over the chiefs of the larger peninfula. He 
 fuccceded in pcrfuading them to unite their forces againft Tciarraboo, 
 which he wiihed to reduce to its former ftate of fubjefhion. Wahea- 
 dooa, who fought only to enjoy peaceably the independence he had 
 eftablifhed, pleaded the fcrvices he had rendered to Tootaha, as an ar- 
 gument to divert him from his hoftlle defigns, which Waheadooa had 
 learned, and was j^repared to refift. The military pride and ambition 
 «f the regent urged him to perfifk in his attempt; and, having equipped 
 a fleet of war canoes, he failed toward the fmaller peninfula, and en- 
 gaged the naval force of Waheadooa, with nearly equal lofs on each 
 fide. Tootaha retind, with a determination to try his fuccefs by 
 land. His brother Happae difapproved of this meafure, and rernaincd 
 at Oparre ; but Tootaha obliged Otoo, who always dlflikcd fighting, 
 to accompany the army. It engaged that of Waheadooa at the ifth- 
 mus, and was totally routed : Tootaha and Tooboorae Tamaede were 
 killed on the fpot ; Orette and many others feverely wounded ; and 
 Otoo efcaped with a few of his friends, to the fummits of the moun- 
 tains, where his father and family had taken refuge upon being informed 
 of the defeat. Waheadooa marched direviHy to Mattavae and Oparre, 
 laying wafte all the coi;ntry, as is ufual in their wars ; but he fent rea- 
 fonable propofals of peace to Happae and Otoo, who readily accepted 
 them. The latter, having then arrived at maturity, afl"umed the ad- 
 minlftratlon of the government, with the affiftance of his father's 
 advice. He had two fifters, one of whom remained unmarried, and 
 being older than he, might have put in a prior claim to the fove- 
 rengnty, but (lie waved her riglit in his favour. Of three brothers, 
 the cldcft was ten year? ycungei thaa OtOO ; he was then a very
 
 xvl PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 aftive and intelligent boy, and has fincc become we'l known under 
 the name of Orapeia : the next brother, Wcidooa, was fix years 
 3'ounger than he : the youngeft, Tcppahoo, then an Infant, has ever 
 fmce remained in obfcurity, on account of his deficiency of lntcllc<ft. 
 
 \Vaheadooa did not long furvive his triumphs ; and his name and 
 government devolved without oppofition upon his Ion. A Spanifh 
 vcflcl, faid to have been commanded by Don Juan de Langara, vifitcd 
 Teiarraboo about March 1773. Sh.e remained ten days at anchor in 
 a harbour formed by reefs, at the fovith-call end of the ifland, and 
 called by the natives Owhac-oorooa. Four of the fl^ip's company were 
 publicly executed there ; and a fifth efcaped the fame fate by flight. 
 He was the f rfl European who became a refident at Otaheite, and 
 was kindlv treated by the natives, to whofe manners he entirely coa- 
 formcd. Young Waheadooa made him one of his principal compa- 
 nions and counfcllors. 
 
 Captain Cook vifited this ifland the following Auguft, in the Rcfo- 
 lution, accompanied by Captain Furneaux in the Adventure. Thefc 
 vcffcls were in much danger near the place where the Spaniards had 
 anchored, the Refolutlon ftriking repeatedly on the adjacent reef. On 
 the 17th of Auguft they anchored in a bay on the northern coaft of 
 Teiarraboo, -calkd Oweitapeha. The Englifla were difappointcd of 
 obtaining provifions, as was faid, by the influence of the young chief's 
 Spanifli advifcr, who carefully avoided intcrcourfe with them. They 
 iiained intelligence from an iflander named Tooahou, who had attended 
 Cook in part of his fur\-ey during the former vifit. The map of 
 Otaheite, which had then been engraved, being fhewn to this man, 
 he readily comprehended it, and pointed out by name the difhrids that 
 were marked upon it. It may be proper here to obferve, that the 
 number and the names of thefc divifions vary at dlfterent periods ; a 
 fliftricH; being fometimes fubdividcd into feveral by the chiefs, in order 
 
 to difl:ribute the land among their friends. 
 
 V/ahcadooa did not vifit his acquaintance, Captain Cook, ti!l the 
 
 23d, and the latter failed the tuilowing day from Owcitapha ; but
 
 PRELfMINARY DISCOURSE. xvii 
 
 left behind Lieutenant Pickcrfgill to purchafe hogs, vshich the natives 
 were permitted to bring when almoft too late. The young chief dif- 
 covered feme ingenuity mingled with boyifti weaknefs, and prefided 
 at the market with great propriety. Mr. Pickerfgill proceeded from 
 thence in a boat to Hedea, where he was kindly entertained by Orette, 
 and his brother Taroore. Neither of them made any incjuiry after 
 Outooroo, although they fuppofed him to have gone with M. de 
 Bougainville to the (time country from whence Cook came. Toopaca 
 alfo feemed to be nearly forgotten ; but Sir Jofcph Banks, and others 
 of the Englilh, who had been moft converfant with the iflanders, were 
 every where inquired after. The boat rejoined the fhips at Hedea, and 
 they proceeded to Mattavac, where they anchored 25th Auguft, 
 
 Otoo, who was on the Ihore furrounded by a multitude gazing at 
 the fliips, did not wait to receive the Englifli, but hurried in terror 
 over the hill which divides Mattavae from Oparre, where he refided. 
 Cook vifited him there the next day, and with difficulty prevailed 
 upon him to venture on board the Ihips on the following. Thefc 
 diftridls had not recovered from the effefts of the war with Telarraboo, 
 and provifions were fcarce. Potatoo in fome meafure fupplicd the de- 
 ficiency from Attahooroo. Otoo expreffed much regret at the depar- 
 ture of the veflels, which occurred ifl September, 
 
 Captain Cook rcvifited Mattavae 22(1 April I J 74, having in the 
 mean time repeatedly entered the antardlic circle in the fruitlefs fearch 
 after a fouthern continent, which was the principal object of this 
 voyage. On his laft departure from Otaheite^ he had been accompa- 
 nied from the Society Illands, by a young man of rank and fome abi- 
 lities, named Hete-hete. By his advice, red feathers had been pro- 
 cured at the Friendly Ifknds ; and they were found to be the moli 
 valuable article of trade at Otaheite. The northern diftridls had alfo 
 xecovered their ufual prolpcrity fmce the former vifit of the Rcfolution, 
 and at this time fupplied abundantly the wants of the navigators. 
 They found much relief from bilious complaints by the ufc of the cvc 
 fruit, which, from its external appearance, has been always called an 
 
 d
 
 xvifi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 apple, although it has a ftone rcfcmbliug that of a peach. During the 
 Hay of Captain Cook, which was prolonged in order to repair his fhip, 
 a fleet of large war canoes aflembled in the bay, for the purpofe of 
 attacking the neighbouring illand of Eimeo. The chief of that coun- 
 try, Motooaro, had married a filler of Otoo, and being expelled by his 
 uncle Maheine, he had taken refuge with his brother-in-law\ The 
 weflern diftrlds having united ^vith thofe of Tepirreonoo to maintain 
 the caufe of Motooaro, Towha, who was then chief of Tettaha, was 
 appointed to the command of the combined fleet. He polTcfled great 
 courage and talents, was advanced in years, and was highly refpedled. 
 His diftricl furnifhcd forty-four large canoes toward the fleet ; that of 
 Attahooroo one hundred and fixty ; and Mattavae, probably in confe- 
 quence of its late devaftation, only ten. Teiarraboo alfo was expeded 
 to fend a quota for this expedition ; yet both Otoo and Towha, al- 
 though jealous of each other, entreated Cook to afliffc them in at- 
 tacking that peninfula. The number of fmall canoes employed to 
 tranfport provifions, and defigncd to bring back the bodies of thofe 
 who might be killed, equalled that of the lare^cr canoes employed in 
 fighting. From the multitude of people embarked in this fleet. Cap- 
 tain Cook computed that the whole ifland might contain more than 
 two hundred thoufand inhabitants. Subfequent navigators have even 
 exceeded this calculation ; but it appears that at prcfcnt there is not a 
 tenth part of that number of people in Otaheitc. Unlimited fenfuality, 
 with the general contamination, and Infant murders, attendant upon 
 it, have, without doubt, drcadfvilly diminiflied the population. 
 
 Amidft the confufion occafioned by fo great a concaurie of the 
 natives, fome daring thefts were committed ; and the feverity which 
 was confequently cxcrcifed, alarmed tlic timidity of Otoo. One of 
 his elder relations, named Te, became uft^ful as a meflcnger and 
 mediator between the young king and his formidable guefts. Oamrao 
 and Obcrca vifitcd them from Pappara ; and the latter, though greatly 
 declined in dignity, and advancing in years, difcovercd no abatement 
 of lewdncfs. The ifianders exhibited a mock fca-fight, and the Englifli
 
 PRnLIMINARV DISCOUUSE. xix 
 
 fomc fireworks, for tJicir mutual entertainment ; and they parted very 
 amicably on the Mth of May. IlJte-hcte, who liad connec^ted him- 
 fclf with a family at Mattavae, took a paflage in the fliip to {cc his 
 friends at Ulictca. Of various animals \%hich had been left at Ota- 
 hcltc by the Rcfblution nine motilhs before, the only fpccies likely to 
 multiply were t^oats and cats. The expedition to Ki'oieo proved fuc- 
 cefsful in reftoring Motooaro to a temporary pofTellion of the fovc- 
 Tcipaty of that illand. 
 
 Teiarraboo was Ihortly after revifited by the Spaniards, in two fliips 
 from Lima, which anchored in Oweitapeha bay. The commander 
 died there, and was burled on Ihorc, near a crofs which they had 
 created, and infcribcd -vtith, " C/iri/hs v'lncit,'' and " Cnrolus 3. 
 *' imperat. 17 74." They alfo conftrucflcd, of materials which they 
 had brought for the purpofe from Peru, a wooden houfc, confiftlng of 
 two apartments, with loop-holes in the walls, which admitted air, and 
 might be ufcd for defence with mufquetry. Two priefts, with an 
 attendant upon each, remained at this habitation when the fliips de- 
 parted, and were peacefully and rcfpedfuUy treated by the natives ; 
 but it does not appear that they had much converfation with them. 
 One o( their attendants, however, frequently travelled in the ifland, 
 and became familiar with the language of the inhabitants. He told 
 them many llanderous flories of the Englilh, and allured them that 
 his countrymen had lallen in with Cook's vcffel and dcllroycd it, •with 
 the whole crew. 
 
 Four of the iflanders had fiiilcd in the Spanlfli fhips to Lima, and 
 two of them died there. Tlic furvivors ^vcrc brought back by the 
 fame ve-flels ten month? afterward, and the priells and their attendants 
 were taken away. A bull and a ram, \\\X.\\ fome goats, dogs, and 
 Spanlfli fwine, were landed ; imd the houfc and crols were left Hand- 
 ing, and carefully prefcrvcd by the natives. Thofe who had vifitcd 
 Peru returned wholly to their former courfe of life: one of them 
 retained fome common Spanllh phrafes ; the other lud the appearance 
 of being deranged in mind.
 
 XX PRELIMINART DISCOURSE. 
 
 Captain Cook once more revifited Otaheite in the Rerolutlon, ac- 
 companied by Captain Clerke in the Difcovcry, on their way to the 
 north-weft coaft of America, in \777. They anchored at Oweitapciia- 
 on the 1 3th of Auguft, and found Tciarraboo at that time fubje6t to a 
 boy twelve years old, brother to tht: former Waheadooa, who had 
 died almoft two years betore. 
 
 When the Rcfolution and Adventure left Otaheite in 1 773, a native 
 of the neighbouring ifland Huaheine, named Omae, had accompanied 
 Captain Furneaux from the latter place, and proceeded to England in 
 the Adventure, after parting with the Refolution. He returned from 
 th-encc with Captain Cook on his third voyage. This young man was 
 not of the higher rank among his countrymen, nor were his talents of 
 a fuperior caft. In England great attention was paid to him by fomc 
 of the nobility, but it was chiefly directed to his amufcment, and 
 tended rather to augment than to diminifli his habitual profligacy. 
 One friend of human kind, Mr. Granville Sharp, took great pains to 
 inftruft him in reading and writing, and to imprcfs his mind with 
 ideas of morality and religion. Omae was fufceptible o^ convidion.by 
 familiar arguments on the latter fubjc6ls, and had made luch progref« 
 by application to the former, that he wrote from the Cape of Good 
 Hope a letter to Dr. Solandcr (who had accompanied Sir Jofeph 
 Banks in 1 769) in Otahcitean words cxprcflcd by Engllfh characters. 
 Having vifited the Friendly iflands prcvioufly to his arrival at Otaheite,, 
 lie had procured a garment richly adorned with red and yellow fea- 
 thers, which he defigned to prcfent to.Otoo. This he delivered to 
 young Waheadooa, requefting him to tranfmit it to Otoo, in the hope- 
 of ingratiating himfelf at once with both of the fovereigns in the ifland 
 ■where he intended to fettle. The prize was, however, too valuable to 
 pafs through the hands of the young chief, who deemed a very fmall 
 part of the feathers fufficicnt to be fent to the monarch of the larger 
 pcninfula. 
 
 The fhips proceeded toMattavac, and anchored there on.thc 2-5th of 
 Auguft : a friendly interview immediately took place Avith Otoe and
 
 rRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxi 
 
 his family, which remained in the fame ftatc as formerly. Captain 
 Cook delivered into his charge an Engllfti bull, three cows, a horfc, a 
 marc, and fomc flieep, which had been conveyed from England with 
 very great trouble, in the hope of rendering cflcntial fcrvicc to thcfc 
 hofpitable iflandcrs. The Spanifli bull had been tranfported from 
 Teiarraboo to Mattavac on the way to Bolabola : the fo\ creign of that, 
 ifland having fcnt an cmiflary, who pretended to infpiration, to procure 
 the bull from Wahcadooa. Captain Cook arriving in time to ftop its- 
 progrefs, committed this animal alfo, which was of a capital breed, to 
 the cuftody of Otoo. Various domeftic fowls were hkcwife left witli 
 him, and garden-feeds planted in ibme ground cleared for the purpofe. 
 Otoo had befulcs in his pofleffion the gander that had been given ten years 
 before by Captain Wallis to Obcrca. This lady had died fmce the 
 former vifits of the Refolution. The body of Te, the king's uncle, 
 and minifter of ftatc, who had then been dead four months, was ftill. 
 prefcrvcd from putrefa<R:ion. Ilete-hetc had arrived at Mattavac but 
 a.fhort time before hisEnglifh friends, to whom he fbewcd an unabated 
 attachment ; but he declined the ufc of fomc clothing which they had. 
 brought out as a prefent to him. Omiic having a6led as imprudently 
 in the difpofal of his property at this place as at Teiarraboo, the deficn 
 of eftablifhing him at Otaheite was rclinquiflied. 
 
 Intelligence being received from Eimeo, tliat Maheine had again, 
 revolted from. Motooaro, and had oblicced him to take refuse in the 
 mountains, Otoo carneftly entreated Captain Cook to take an active 
 part in the quarrel, but he prudently declined to interfere. Human 
 facrifices were offered at Attahooroo to infurc fuccefs to the expedi- 
 tion, and Towha and Potatto again conduded the fleet belonging to 
 tbeir ditlritils to attack Maheine. They found him, however, i'o well 
 prepared to receive them, that, after repeatedly apphjing to Otoo for 
 reinforcements, _ without procuring any, they concluded a. peace on 
 terms which were advantageous to the rcvoltcrs. There, had been a. 
 great diverfity of fentiment among the chiefs on the fubjccl of this 
 e:ipedition, and the blame of its unfavovirablc ilfuc was imputed by
 
 x\ii rRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 feme to the hartincfj of Towha, and by others to Otoo's delay in aug- 
 ' menthig the fleet. Thcjealoufy which had always fubfifted between 
 thcfe great men was excited to ilich a degree, that Towha vowed re- 
 venge againft Otoo, and was only prevented from executing it by the 
 menaces of Captain Cook. The latter quitted Mattavae on the 2Qth 
 of September 1 777> and for the firft time vifited Eimeo. Some thefts 
 which the natives of that ifland committed, \Aerc punifhed by him 
 with unprecedented feverity. He returned no more, being killed at 
 the Sandwich Iflands on the llth of February' 17 79. 
 
 Previous to that e\ent Otoo efpoufed Iddea, the elder fifiier of Mo- 
 tooaro, with whom he thus became doubly connected by marriage. 
 The firffc child flic bore to him was immediately fufFocated, that they 
 might preferse their rank in the arreoe fbciety ; but a fecond being 
 horn was prefcrved, and in confequence the title and fovereign dignity 
 of Otoo immediately devolved upon his infant fon. The father re- 
 tained his former power as regent, and in the condud: of it he was 
 greatly affifted by his intelligent and active confort. He has fmce 
 been called by various names fucceffively ; but, to avoid confufion, we 
 fliall only ufe that of Pomarre, by which he has been known during 
 the laft fix years. 
 
 Towha feems to have fuppreffed his refentmcnt till the ufual length 
 f)f time between Captain Cook's vifits at Otahcite had elapfed ; he 
 then united the forces of Tettaha and Attahooroo with Maheinc 
 againil; thofe of Oparre and the eaflern dillrldis. The conteft was 
 frequently renewed, and ufually terminated to the advantage of Towha. 
 Pomarre's war canoes being nearly deftroyed, his ad\-erfaries purfucd 
 their fucccfs by land, and laid wafle Oj)arre and Mattavae. They at 
 length fuffercd a fevere check by the death of Maheine, who was killed 
 in battle by the hand of Weidooa, Pomarre's younger brother. This 
 cataflrophe appears to have prevented the renewal of hollilities at Ota- 
 hcite ; but the party of Motooaro was not powerful enough to eflablilh 
 him as the fueeefl'or ot Maheinc, whofe adopted fon, Tareamoodoa, 
 f;btaiucd at his death the lovercigntv ot Eimeo. Durinsj; thefe incur-
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxiii 
 
 fions moft of the cattle that had been left at Opii-rrc, and had mcreafcd 
 there, were dc{lro}'cd ; fcveral cows and a difabled bull, were carried ;n 
 triumph to Eimco, and prel'erved there. 
 
 Eleven years had nearly paffed without any intcrcourfc between 
 Europe and Otaheite ; every inftrumcnt of iron had been expended ; 
 and the loathfome difeafe, which, if not derived from Europeans, had 
 certainly been incrcafcd by their hcentious condudl, had made dread- 
 ful havock among the iflandcrs of both fexcs. At that late period an 
 Englifh vefl'el arrived at Otaheite, fcemingly with as httle of defign on 
 the one part, as of expectation on the other. A fhip called the Lady 
 Penrhyn, on board of which was Lieutenant Watts, who had failed 
 with Cook, was employed in tranfporting convids to Port Jacklbn, 
 at the firft formation of the fettlcment in New South Wales. Be- 
 ing bound from thence to China for a cargo homeward, Ihe took a 
 courfc far to the caftward ; and as the crew was extremely reduced by 
 fcur\T, it was determined to flop at Otaheite for rcfreflimcnts. Upon 
 anchoring at Mattavae on the loth of July 1/88, Lieutenant Watts 
 was immediately rccognifcd by Moanna, an elderly chief ol that diilritt. 
 Pomarre, who no longer refided in tliat neighbourhood, arrived four 
 days afterward, probably from Teiarraboo, bringing with him a por- 
 trait of Captain Cook, which Mr. Webber had painted at his rcqucft 
 during the laft voyage. Veracity having been thought needlcfs by Eu- 
 ropeans in their tranfaftions with the illandcrs, it was judged proper at 
 that time to conceal the death of Captain Cook, and to make prcfcnts 
 in his name to Pom.^rre. This idle deception proved afterward highly 
 detrimental. 
 
 Iron vitcnfils were fought by the iflandero with the utmofl avidity ; 
 while fome red feathers, which had been brought from Port Jackfon, 
 bore no price with them. The ring of an anchor, which M. de Bou- 
 gainville had loft ten years before at Hedea, was produced by Pomarre, 
 who requcfted to have it forged into fmall adzes. The utmoft abun- 
 dance of animal and vegetable food was fupplied in exchange for Eu- 
 ropean articles ; and bclides the original produdlons of the ifland.
 
 :ixlv PrxELLMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 pumpkins and capficums, cats and goats, v/cre offered for falc. It was 
 obkrvcd, that the women ot'the higher clafs were more cautious than 
 formerly of promifcuous intercourfe, probably in confcquence of what 
 they had fuffered from difeafe. Pomarre was importunate with Mr. 
 ^Vatts to affift him in punifliing and lubduing the people of Eimeo. 
 He complained greatly of the long abfence of the Englifh, and of the 
 fhortnefs of their prefcnt ftay, which was only for a fortnight. Hcte- 
 hete, who was at Mattavae, begged to be taken to Ulietea ; but Po- 
 marre being unwilling to part with him, he was obliged to remain. 
 
 An event approached which iffued in an important change of the 
 condition of Otaheite. The information which had been received by 
 the former voyages of the great utility of the bread-fruit, induced the 
 merchants and planters of the BritilTi Well Indian illands to rcqucft 
 that means might be ufed to tranfplant it thither. For this benevo- 
 lent purpofc a fliip was commiffioned by his Majefty, which was 
 named the Bounty ; and Lieutenant Bligh, who had failed as mafler 
 with Captain Cook, was appointed to condud: her to Otaheite, where 
 the plants might be mofh eafily and abundantly procured. He ar- 
 rived at Mattavae on the 20th of Od.ober 1/88, hardly more than 
 three months after Lieutenant Watts's departure. Happae and Ora- 
 peia were found there, and the latter was peculiarly anxious to prevent 
 his countrymen from pradlfmg their ufual thefts. The frame of Cap- 
 tain Cook's pldlure, which had fuffered fome damage by its removals, 
 was brought to be mended ; and on the 28th Pomarre arrived with 
 Iddea from a diftric^ of Tciarraboo, where he had taken up his reli- 
 dence. Weidooa, who had gained great credit by his prowcfs in battle, 
 but was cxccffivcly addidicd to the intoxicating liiquor of the ava root, 
 and a chief of Mattavae, named Poeno, were generally of the vifiting 
 parties. A garden was planted near the houfes belonging to the latter 
 and to Moanna. Potatto and Orettc, and his kinfmen, renewed their 
 frlendfliip with the Englifh- The young fovereign, who was about fix 
 years old, was only to be accoffed from the oppofite fide of the river at 
 Oparre. The Englifh were required to make their Ihoulders bare when
 
 rRELIMINARY DISCOIJRSE. xxv 
 
 in his prefcncc ; but they coinpromlCcd this ceremony by uncovering 
 their heads. He was accompanied by a younger brother and a filler, 
 bcfidc whom Iddea had alfo a female infant by Pomarre ; yet (he co- 
 habited openly at that time with one of his fervants, and has done fo 
 ever fnicc. Teppahoo, an uncle of Pomarre, had deftroyed eight 
 children, in order to preferve his rank as an arrcoe. He rcfided at 
 Tcttaha as chief of that diilricft, Towlia being dead. The wife of die 
 latter, Wanno-oora furvived him, and \^ as much rcfpedlcd. 
 
 Lieutenant Bligh having made very handfome, prefcnts from the 
 king of Great-Britain to Pomarre, informed him that the moil ac- 
 ceptable return would be a large quantity of the young bread-fruit 
 plants, and that he would oblige him by carrying them in liis cabin 
 for King George ; which was immediately confented to. Pomarre ex- 
 prcfTed little concern about the lofs of the cattle, bvit m\ich defirc to be 
 revenged upon the people of Eimeo : and he was gratified with two 
 mufkcts, a pair of pillols, and a confiderable ftock of ammunition. He 
 had not fufficient fortitude to ufe thcfc articles himfelf : but Hetc- 
 hete, who remained with him, was a good markfman ; and although 
 it is not cuftomary for the females of Otaheite to go to battle, Iddea, 
 whofe perfonal flrength and courage were unufually great, had learned 
 to ufe a mufket with fomc dexterity. 
 
 Oberreroa, the mother of Pomarre, came from the fmall illands of 
 Tethuroa, and vifitcd the Bounty with difficulty, being old and corpu- 
 lent. She fecms to have been a native ot Ulietea, from w hence fbme of 
 her relations, who were chiefs in that ifland, came to Mattavae at this 
 time. One of them brought an ewe, which Captain Cook had left at 
 Ulietea, and which was then almoft deftroyed by the mange. Another, 
 who was at that time called Tootaha, feems to be the -fame pcrfon 
 fince known by the name of Mannc-mannc, the brother of Oberreroa, 
 and heir apparent to the fovereignty of Ulietea and Otaha, but by of- 
 fice a prieft. Befide the llicep, which fliortly died, a bull was procured 
 from Hcdea, and a cow from Tettahu ; and both were committed to
 
 xxvi PREUiMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 the charge of Pomarre, from whom the former had been obtained by 
 a perfon pretending to be infpired. 
 
 On Chriftmas-day the Bounty was removed to a reef harbour on the 
 coaft of Oparre, the bay of Mattavae having become dangerous through 
 the variable and violent winds which are common at that feafon. 
 Nearly eight hundred pots of bread-fruit plants were then taken on 
 board, and upwards of one thoufand plants were afterward added, 
 together with fome of the eve, eheya, rS.tta, oraya, tou, and matte trees ; 
 and the te, yappc, and pea roots. The length of time employed in 
 coUeding thcfe, was attended Avith the defertion of feveral among the 
 feamen, who were purfued to Tcthuroa by Orapeia, and at length were 
 feized at Tettaha. The fliip's cable was cut nearly through, evidently 
 with the dcfign of letting the fhip drive on Ihore in tempeffcuous wea- 
 ther. This is faid to have been done by Weidooa, on account of an 
 officer to whom he was attached, and who had been put in confine- 
 ment on board. The thefts of the inhabitants likewifc increafed with 
 the delay, but the chiefs exerted themfelves to bring them to punifh- 
 ment. Some maize had been planted iince the arrival of the Bounty, 
 which ripened before fhe failed. Captain Cook's picture, which had, 
 by Pomarre's rcquefl, been kept on board the fhip, was then delivered 
 again to him, with the date of the fliip's arrival and departure re- 
 corded upon the back of the pidure, which has ever fmce been prac- 
 tifed by commanders of Englifli men of war. The Bounty was un- 
 moored the 4th of April, l/SQ, having remained at Otaheite more 
 than five months. 
 
 The fituation of Pomarre was evidently at that t'fmc neither com- 
 fortable nor fecure. He earneflly dcfired Captain Bligh to take him- 
 felf and Iddea to Britain. Hcte-hete equally wiflied to go in the fhip, 
 A coolnefs then fubfiflcd between Pomarre and Orapeia, which was 
 fuppofcd to have arifen from a difagreement of their wives. Shortly 
 after the departure of the fhip a revolution took place at Eimeo, by 
 which Motooaro's authority was eflabliflicd. Tareamoodoa took re-
 
 PRKLIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxvii 
 
 fixgc in Attahooroo, and was afterward entertained by Temarrc at Pap- 
 para, where he remained in a private ftatinn. 
 
 The Bounty returned to Mattavac on the 0th of June, having in 
 the mean time been feizcd by twenty-five of the crew, -vrho had mu- 
 tinied, and turned adrift Lieutenant BUgh, and eighteen officers and 
 fcamen, in the Launch belonging to the fliip. Fletcher Chriflian, the 
 mafter's mate, a young man of rcfpcClablc connexions and good ta- 
 lents, was chofen to command the mutineers. He had perfuaded them 
 *to go to Toobouac, a fmall ifland ninety leagues to the f()uthward of 
 Otaheite ; preferring it to the latter, as being lefs expofed to vifits 
 from Europeans. Having fo\md Toobouac dellitutc of animal provi- 
 fions, he brought the fhip again to Otaheite, to procure fbme ftock 
 for the fettlemcnt which he intended to make. He availed himfelf, 
 for this purpofe, of the fic^lion which had been hitherto fupportcd rc- 
 fpe<R:ing Captain Cook ; aflerting that they had met with him, and 
 that he had fcnt the fliip back for all the live ftock that could be 
 fpared, in order to form a fettlemcnt at a place which Captain Bligh 
 had difcovered in his courfe toward the Friendly Iflands. The inha- 
 bitants gave credit to his ftory, and vied with each other wJio Ihould 
 furnifli moft for the fervice of Captain Cook ; fo that by the l6th of 
 June, four hundred and fixty hogs, fifty goats, and great quantities of 
 fowls, dogs, and cats were colledcd. The bull and cow, which had 
 been committed to the charge of Pomarre by Captain Bligh, were 
 alfo taken away ; but the former died on the paffage, from the falls 
 he received. Eleven female Otaheiteans failed with the mutineers ; 
 and it was foon found that thirteen male natives, among whom was 
 Hcte-hetc, had concealed thcmfclves in the fliip. When informed of 
 the real deftination of the veflcl, and of the great improbability there 
 was that they would ever return to their own country, they difcovered 
 no diflatisfaftion ; but adhered cheerfully and faithfully to the muti- 
 neers during their fruitlcfs attempts to eftablifli thcmfclves at Too- 
 bouac. 
 
 Subfequent to the fccond departure of the Bounty from Otaheite. 
 
 c 2
 
 ^xviii. PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 a Swcdifh armed veffcl, coinmanded by J. H. Cox, arrived there. 
 Captain Cox was received by Pomarre and Iddca with their ufual 
 hofpitaUty ; and in return made them prcfcnts, among which were 
 fome more fire-arms and ammunition, a hand-law, and an union jack. 
 The latter became a fubftitute for Captain Wallis's pendant, as the 
 enfign of royalty. A fhrewd and adllvc fellow, named Brown, a na- 
 tive of England or North America, was left by Captain Cox upon the 
 ifland, in confequence of a quarrel between him and his fliipmates, in 
 which he had maimed one of them. This man attaclicd hlmfclf t<T 
 Pomarre, with whom he went to rcfidc at a diftrift of Teiarraboo, 
 where the latter had fome private property. He had taken up his 
 abode there, apparently with a view to Increafe his political influence, 
 in hope that the fmaller peninfula might at length be brought under 
 the dominion of his fon. 
 
 A majority of the mutineers having determined, contrary to Fletcher 
 Chrlftlan's inclination, upon returning from Toobouae to Otaheite, 
 the Bounty was anchored a third time at Mattavac, on the 22d of 
 September l/SQ. Sixteen of the fliip's company then landed, with 
 their proportion of the property and arms that were on board. The 
 reft failed iiiddcnly in the night with Chriftian, and have never fmce 
 been heard of. Thirty-five of the iflanders, including men, women, 
 and children, accompanied them. His profelTed defign was to fettle in 
 fome u,ninhabltcd ifland, out of the ufual tracks of European fhlps. 
 Among the people who remained at Otaheite, were feveral who had 
 not been aftlve In the mutiny ; and fome who had wifhcd to accom- 
 pany Captain Ellgh in the boat, but were detained by the reft, as they 
 could not conveniently be fparcd. They were hofpitably received by 
 their old friends at Mattavae and Oparrc, and lands were affigncd for 
 their ufc in thcfe diftrl<fli, which they preferred to others wdiere they 
 were Icfs acquainted. 
 
 The more ingenious and induftrious among them employed thcm- 
 felvcs in the conftru^lion of a fchooncr, about the fize of the paffage- 
 lK)ats between London and Gravefend. It was difiicult to find, and
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 XXIX 
 
 to convey from the mountains, timber fuitcd to their purpofe ; and fttll 
 more fo, to fubflitutc fuch articles as were to be obtaijicd in the 
 country, for the necelfary iron-work, pitch, and rigging. The natives, 
 although they pilfered other things, never ftole their tools, but aflillcd 
 them occafionally in the laborious parts of their work ; and were lefs 
 furpifcd at their fkill, thi\n at their perfcverance in fuch an under- 
 taking. It was hardly to be expelled, that the whole of the party who 
 had engaged in it, would adhere to each other till it was completed. 
 One of them, named Churchill, who had been mafter at arms in the 
 Ihip, and was very aftive in the mutiny, accepted an invitation to live 
 with Waheadooa, who was fovcreign of Teiarraboo at the time that 
 Cook laft vifited that peninfula. Another, named Thompfon, one of 
 the moft ignorant and brutal of the crew, accompanied him ; but they 
 very fliortly difagreed. Waheadooa died foon afterward, -without chil- 
 dren; and Churchill, having been his tayo, fuccccded to his property 
 and dignity, according to the cftabllflied cuftom of the country. 
 Thompfon was excited by envy of Churchill's preferment, and by re- 
 venge for fome tricks he had played him, to take an opportunity of 
 fhooting Iiim. The natives rofc to punifh the murder of their new 
 fcvereign, and ftoned Thompfon to death. A boy of four years old, 
 who was nephew of the late Waheadooa, and Ion of the chief of 
 Weiooroo, was acknowledged as the fucccifor of his imclc, whofe 
 name devolved upon him, as it had before done upon Churchill. 
 
 Pomarre was anxious that the reft of the Enghfli lliould remain 
 \mconnc<?l:ed with Teiarraboo ; but confented th;it fome of them Ihould 
 take up their refidence at Pappara with Temarre, who continued to 
 be on terms of friendihip with him. They had all been conftantly 
 and plcntitully fupplied with provifions by Pomarrc's orders, and he 
 at length requcftcd in return their affiftancc to attack Eimeo, where 
 another infurrc^lion was formed againft Motooaro. They declined to 
 go thither, but cleaned for him the arms which Captain Bligh and 
 Captain Cox had given him. Hete-hete, who remained at Otaheite 
 when the Bounty failed, and a few other natives who had learned to
 
 XXX PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 ufe thorn, eafily turned the fcale of vl6lory againft the infurgents, aiul 
 confirmed Motooaro in the peaceable poffeflion of his rights. 
 
 A few months afterwards the wellcrn diftrlds of Attahooroo and 
 Tettaha (where Teppahoo had died, and his fucceffor Tetowha was 
 inimical to Otoo) invaded both Oparre and Puppara, through jealoufy 
 of the growing power of the royal family. On this occafion the mu- 
 tineers thought it necelTary, for their own fafety, to arm on the fide 
 of their friends. Their fchooner having at length been launched, 
 rie;ged, and provided with every thing necellary, they failed with a 
 fleet of war canoes from the north-caftern diflrifts againft Attahooroo; 
 which was likewife attacked from the quarter of Pappara by Tcmarre 
 and the Englilh people reliding with him. Potatto, Tetow^ha, and 
 their adherents, took refuge in the mountains, and in a fliort time 
 obtained peace by fubmitting to Otoo's authority. They alfo furren- 
 dered to him the royal maro, w^hich was carried in triumph to the 
 morae at Oparre, after having remained at Attahooroo twenty-one 
 years. Tetowha, who was a young man of remarkable comelinefs, 
 died foon afterwards, and an uncle of Pomarre's was appointed in his 
 iiead. Potatto, through the interceffion of the Englifh, was allowed 
 to retain his authority in Attahooroo. After paying a vifit to Motoo- 
 aro, with whom fome of them refided from that time, they laid up 
 the fchooner at Mattavae during the tempeftuous feafon, which ufually 
 prevails between November and March. 
 
 Early in 1 79 1 the ceremony took place of invefting Otoo with the 
 royal garment, on which occafion Captain Cox's flag was fent entirely 
 round the ifland in token of the young chief's fupremacy. It was 
 admitted to pafs through Ticarraboo, from fear of Pomarre's Englifli 
 allies, rather than from wlUingncfs to fubmit to him. He thdicfore 
 propofed to them to affift his own and Temarre's people, in com- 
 pelling the inhabitants of that peninfula to abfolute fubmifllon. The 
 chief part of the mutineers having agreed to the propofal, they again 
 launched and provided their fchooner, failed from Mattavae 2lfl: 
 March, leaving only four of their number there, and reached Pappara
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. :<sxi 
 
 on the 2Jth. In the mean time the Pandora frigate, commanded by 
 Captain Edwards, which had been fcnt from England, on licaring of 
 the mutiny in the Bounty, arrived at Otahclte, and anchored at Mat- 
 tavae on the 23d. The Englilhrncn who had recnaincd there, went 
 on board the fame day, and were immediately put into confinement. 
 Lieutenants Corner and Hayward, the latter of whom had failed in 
 the Bounty, and accompanied Cajitaln Bllgh in the launch, were dif- 
 patched with two of the Pandora's boats, to purfue the fchooner. The 
 mutineers had hardly anchored at Pappara, when a mciTcngcr, whom 
 Hete-hete had fent by land, informed them of what had befallen their 
 comrades ; upoii which they immediately failed again, with three 
 others who lived at Pappara, leaving behind only one of their party, 
 and Brown whom they had met there. The former walked all night 
 toward Mattavae, and furrendercd himfelf on board the fhip the next 
 day; when alfo the boats returned thither, not having been able to 
 overtake the fchooner, which had fteered for the fouth-callernmolt 
 point of the ifland. She, however, returned to Pappara on the 27th, 
 and fix of the inutineers went up to the hills within the country ; the 
 other three were kept in confinement that night and the next day by 
 the orders of Temarrc, who likewife feized the fchooner. In the night 
 of the 28th they efcaped, by Brown's affiftance, to the weflern coaft, 
 and reached, by daybreak, a boat with w hich Lieutenant Corner had 
 come from the lliip the preceding day in purfuit of them. He left 
 them, with the boat, in the charge of a petty officer, and afcendcd 
 the heights, guided by Orapeia, to difcover the retreat of the reft. 
 Lieutenant Haj/ward having proceeded by water to Pappara, and 
 fearched for them in vain, was Informed the next forenoon, that they 
 were coming down to furrcndcr themfelves, wdaich they did, laying 
 down their arms as they approached his party; and Mr. Hayward fent 
 Information to Lieutenant Corner, who was defcending after them 
 into the valley. 
 
 During the whole time of the mutineers' continuance at Otahelte, 
 Pomarre had remained at Tciarraboo, but upon the arrival of the
 
 ssxii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 Pandora, he repaired with his family to Oparrc. He had tlicn, in ud- 
 ditiou to Iddca, taken to wife her younger fifter, Wcircdc ; but was 
 ilill equally influenced by the advice of the former. He readily co- 
 operated with the Britifli officers in their meafurcs for fecuring the 
 mutineers, and was anxious to prevent bad confequences from the"rc-> 
 fcntmcnt of families with which they had formed connexions. Few 
 of thefe appear to have been highly refpectablc ; but one inllance oc- 
 curred of a very affed:ing nature. A midlhipman, who had been ac- 
 tive in the m.utiny, had lived with the daughter of a perfon of property 
 at Mattavae, and ilie had borne a child to him. His imprilbnment 
 and removal afflided her to fuch a degree as to bring on a decline that 
 terminated in her death. Her infant was left to the care of a fiflcr, 
 who cheriflied it with the utmoft tendernefs. Three daughters and a 
 fon Avere left by others of the mutineers. 
 
 Notwithftanding the mournfvd interviews that daily took place on 
 board, between the Englifhmen, who were kept in irons, and the native 
 women with whom they had lived, the ufual courfc of fcftivity, amufc- 
 ments, and debaucheries, was uninterrupted during the continuance 
 of the fliip at Otaheite. She failed on the 8th of May, accompanied 
 by the fchooner which the mutineers had built, under the command 
 of a petty officer from the Pandora. Brown, who had never been on 
 friendly terms with the mutineers, came away in the lliip ; and Hete- 
 hcte went in her to Bolabola, his native ifland. Pomarre and his wives 
 were alfo flill dcfirous of quitting the ifland, but their departure was 
 flrongly oppofcd by Orapeia and other chiefs, whofe perfuafions pre- 
 vailed. 
 
 Of the fourteen people who were feized at Otaheite, and taken 
 away in the Pandora, four were drowned when the Ihip was call: away 
 on her return ; the reft were prefcrved in boats, and brought to 
 trial in England. Four of them were acquitted, as having had no 
 concern in the mutiny ; and were moflly provided for in Greenwich 
 Hofpital. Another was difcharged, his convidion not having been 
 legally conduced. T'wo were pardoned, and have fincc been cnj-
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxili 
 
 ployed in the navy. The remaining three v/crc executed at Spit- 
 head. 
 
 At the clofe of the fame year Captain Vancouver, in a fliip named 
 the Difcovery, and Lieutenant Broughton, in the Chatham brig, ar- 
 rived at Otahcite. The vcffcls having been feparatcd on their paflbgc, 
 the Chatham firft reached that ifland, which was appointed for their 
 rendezvous. She anchored at Mattavae on the 27th of December 
 1791, and the Difcovery joined her three days later. Pomarrc was 
 then at Eimeo, but returned the following week with Motooaro, who 
 was much reduced in health, and died a fortnight afterward. Another 
 chief of the fame name, who was fovereign of Huaheine, but acknow- 
 ledged the fupremacy of Otoo, was at Mattavae when the fllips ar- 
 rived, and remained there while they flaid. Mannemanne, then 
 named Moure, although he had fucceeded Opoone in the fbvereignty 
 of Ulietea and Otaha, refidcd chiefly at Otahcite. The expedition 
 which had been meditated affainfl Tiearraboo had been carried into 
 cfFcd, and the younger brother of Otoo had been appointed chief of 
 that peninfula. Orapeia rcfided there as regent for his nephew, and 
 Weidooa at Oparre. Pomarre had fixed his abode at Eimeo, and the 
 inhabitants of that ifland became reconciled and attached to his go- 
 vernment, as regent for the davighter of the deceafed Motooaro. Po- 
 tatto remained likewife in amity and fubjecfiion. Happae was ftill 
 capable of atilivity, and was then treated with rcA'crence by his three 
 fons, who were alfo cordially attached to each other. They all be- 
 haved with their ufual hofpitality toward the Englifli; but they could 
 not dilTuade Pomarre from the moft immoderate ufe of fpirituous li- 
 quors, till his fufferings convinced him of the neceffity of temperance. 
 Some thefts, which were evidently encouraged by the chiefs, inter- 
 rupted the friendfhip that had prevailed ; and prevented the repetition 
 of a difplay of fireworks, with which they had been great4y delighted. 
 The veflTcls failed on the 2-lth of January 1792. 
 
 Shortly afterward a private fliip, named the Matilda, Captain 
 Weatherhcad, touched at Otahcite for rcfrelhments, having failed 
 
 f
 
 xxxir PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 from Port Jackfon upon the fouthcrn whale fiflicry. After a fort- 
 night's flay they departed, and on the 25th of February, the fliip 
 ■was wrecked upon an cxteiifive reef in 22 fouth latitude, 138 | weft 
 longitude. The captain and crew efcaped in their boats to Otahei.tc. ; 
 but upon landing again at that ifland, the inhabitants plundered them 
 of the articles they had faved from the wreck. This event became an 
 occafion of contention among the iflanders, and a part of the country 
 A\ as in confequence laid waftc by Pomarre. The Ihip's company were, 
 in other refpefts, well treated. A fmall veflel called the Prince Wil- 
 liam Henry, touching at Otahcite on the 20th of March, flayed only 
 three days. Some of the Matilda's people embarked in her, and pro- 
 ceeded to the north-weft coaft of America. 
 
 Captain Bligh having been again fent out, to accomplifh the purpofes 
 of his former voyage which had been fruftrated by the mutiny, ar- 
 rived at Otaheite on the 7th of April l 702, in a fhip named the Pro- 
 vidence, attended by a fmall veflel called the Affiftance, commanded 
 by Lieutenant Portlock. Pomarre refided at Oparre whilft the veftels 
 remained. Peace was reftored between the contending diflridls by 
 Captain Bligh's interference, and human facrifices w^ere offered on the 
 occafion. A fccond colled;ion of bread-fruit plants, &c. was made, 
 with which he failed after a ftay of three months. Hetehete, and one 
 of Pomarre's domeftics, accompanied him to the Weft-Indies, where 
 the former remained to take care of the plants ; the other came to 
 England, but did not long furvive his arrival. Several of the Matilda's 
 people who chofe to continue upon the ifland, attached themfclves to 
 different families, and lived in indolence and plenty. 
 
 The Daedalus ftorefhip, Captain New, had followed Captain 
 Vancouver from England to Nootka Sound, and was difpatched from 
 thence, with Lieutenant Hanfon on board, to Port Jackfon. In her 
 way thither ftie ftopped a fortnight at Otaheite, in February 17Q3. 
 The fhip's company were treated with the utmoft frlcndfhip ; and two 
 of the crew deferted, in order to fettle among the natives. One of 
 them was recovered by the contrivance of Orapcia, a^ ho advifed the
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxv 
 
 captain to detain him on board till the man fhould be lent back; and 
 having aisled his part fo well as to accompllfli the purpofc, he then 
 diverted himfelf at the cxpenfe of his friends. The other dcfcrtcr, 
 who was a Swede, was fuifcred to remain at Otahcltc, where he was 
 found hy Captain Willbn. Only one of the Matilda's crew chofc to 
 depart with the Daedalus. 
 
 No information refpeiiting this ifland having tranfplred between 
 the voyages of the Daedalus and the Duff, we refer to the narrative of 
 the latter for the intervening occurrences. Two private fliips, named 
 the Jenny and the Britannia, were at different periods at Otahcitc, but 
 neither the events nor the dates of their vifits are accurately known. 
 It is reported that feveral of the Matilda's crew left the ifland in one of 
 thefe veffels ; and that fome of them ventured acrofs the l*acific Ocean 
 in their boats, one of which is undcrilood to have reached Timor. 
 
 The numerous detached accounts, from which the preceding nar- 
 rative has been with ditficulty compiled, cannot but excite painful 
 fenfations in a fcrious mind. While, in fome refpedls, the pi-udencc 
 and humanity of our navigators are confpicuous, how much is it to 
 be lamented, that, in various important views, they appear to have 
 derived from the knowledge of chriftianity no advantage over the 
 heathen world! More damage than benefit certainly has refulted from 
 their intercourfe. The manners of the natives had become more de- 
 praved by means of the frequent vifits w hich occurred during the firft 
 ten years : and they had, in fome degree, evidently ameliorated during 
 an equal fpace of time, in which the ifland was wholly deferted by 
 Europeans. For ten years paft, nominal Chrlftians have almoft con- 
 ftantly rcfided there ; and the refult appears from the ftate in which 
 the inhabitants were found by Captain Wihbn. It is confolatory to 
 clofe this hifforical view of Otaheite with the arrival and fettlement of 
 feveral real Chriftians in that ifland, who have devoted their lives to 
 the purpofcs ot inftruAing the natives by their dodlrine and example in 
 the purity of the gofpel ; and of imparting to them the moft cffential 
 benefits of civilization, without the vices too often attendant upon it, 
 
 f 2
 
 sxxvi PiiELIiMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 IJlajids conns£led xvith Otahclie. 
 
 MOST of the iflands which maintain an intercourfe with Otaheite, 
 have been repeatedly mentioned in the preceding narrative. That 
 which more immediately depends upon it, is 
 
 Tethuroa, confifling of feveral fmall low iflets, enclofed in a reef 
 about ten leagues in circuit ; and fituatcd a little to the weftvvard of 
 north from Point Venus, at the diftance of eight leagues. It is the 
 property of the fovereign of Otaheite, who allows no bread-fruit to 
 be planted upon thefe fpots ; that the people who inhabit them, may 
 be obliged to brmg the fifli which abound there, to Oparre, to be ex- 
 changed for bread-fruit. The reef is inacceffible to large canoes, and 
 Pomarre has therefore made ufe of this place as a magazine for his 
 moll: valuable articles of property, not being expofed to the depredations 
 of a hoflile fleet. The iflets alfo abound with cocoa-nuts, which 
 flourifli fnoft upon the lowefl: places. They are ueforted to by the wan- 
 dering fociety of the arreoes, eipecially the women, and by the efl^eml- 
 nate clafs, with the purpofe of increafmg the delicacy of their ap- 
 pearance. The paflage is often diflicult and dangerous. The ftatcd 
 inhabitants have been reprefented as few; but the occafional concourfc 
 of people is fuch, that in the moft variable and tempeftuous feafon of 
 the year, one hundred canoes have been feen together upon this fpot. 
 The only ifland, bcfide Tethuroa, that is in abfolutc fubje<6lion to 
 Otaheite is Mai tea, which belongs to the chief of Teiarraboo, It ia 
 fituatcd to the call of that peninlula, at the diftance of more than 
 twenty leagues ; and being, though fraall, very lofty, is always ob- 
 fcrved by perfons who approach Otaheite from the eailward. It is 
 not above three miles in circuit, and the north fide is too fteep for 
 habitations; but the fouthcrn fide defcends more gradually, and has a 
 border of low land next the fea. This little ifland is very populous, 
 but lefs civilized than Otaheite, from whence it is vifitcd by a large
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxvii 
 
 war canoe during the variable winds, and pearls are procured in ex- 
 change for the iron work that can be fpared. To the eaftward it is 
 cnclofed by a coral reef. It is in latitude 17".'»3^ weft longitude 
 148*^ 12^. It is the only high ifland adjacent to the eaftward of 
 Otahcite, and maintains intercourfe with fomc of the low inlands 
 toward the north-eaft. 
 
 The iiland neareft to Otahcite is that called, by Captain Cook, 
 ElMEO, but more ufually named Morea by the natives. Its diftance 
 from the weftern coaft of Otahcite is about four leaijues. Its extent 
 has been varioufly reprefented, but is probably about ten milds frorrx 
 north to fouth, and half as much in breadth. It dlft'ers from 
 Otahcite in having land-locked harbours in fcveral parts of its coaft, 
 aud in being interfec^ed by fpacious valleys. It has a very narrow 
 border of low land next the fea, from whence the hills rife in fuddcn 
 acclivities ; but from the harbours on the northern fhore they afcend 
 gradually, and the lower hills appear to be the moft fertile parts. Its 
 hiftory has been interwoven with that of Otahcite, with which it 
 appears to be at prefent amicably and firmly connecled. The natives 
 are ftrongly addi<fled to theft ; and the females have been thought in- 
 ferior in beauty to thofc of any neighbouring ifland. The harbour of 
 Taloo, on the north coaft, which is thought moft eligible for veflcls, 
 is fituated in 1/° SoMatitude, in 150° weft longitude. Eimeo was 
 unavoidably feen by every navigator who has vifitcd Otaheite. Captain 
 Wallls named it the Duke of York's iiland. 
 
 The ifland neareft to the vveftward from Eimeo is Tapooamanoo, 
 which was difcovercd on the 28th of July l/Oj by Captain Wallis, 
 and called by him Sir Charles Saunders's iiland. I'c.is lituatcd in lati- 
 .tude l/'^28^ weft longitude IfiO" 40'. Its greateft extent is from 
 eaft to weft, about fix miles. Its centre rifes in a moimtain witH a 
 double peak ; but the greater part had a fertile appearance, and the 
 lower grounds abounded with cocoa-nut trees. The habitations Teemed 
 to be fmall, and not very numerous. Its government has uiually de- 
 pended upon that of Huahcinc, from whence it is diftant abcut four—
 
 sxxviii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 teen leagues, fouth by eaft. It is not known that Europeans ever landed 
 upon it. 
 
 HuAHEiNE (or Ahcine, which llgnifies woman) is the eaflern- 
 moft ifland of the group called the Society Iflands by Captain Cook, 
 who difcovered them in July 1769 ; and it is twenty-eight leagues to 
 the north-weft of Otaheite, being fituated in latitude 16° 43^, 150" "' 
 weft longitude. It has about feven leagues of circuit, and is divided 
 into two peninfulas by an ifthmus overflowed at high %vater : in other 
 parts of the ifland there are alfo fait lakes near the fea. It has a very 
 narrow ftripe of fertile low land next the flaore ; and the hills, vvhidi 
 are not nearly fo high as thofe of Otaheite, but more ftrongly marked 
 by volcanic fire, are in fome parts entirely cultivated. The produc- 
 tions are fimilar to thole of Otaheite, but earlier in their leafon. The 
 men are generally larger and more robuft : both fexes are Icfs timid 
 and lefs curious. They were n:iore daring in their thefts from the 
 Englifh, having never felt the force of their weapons of deftru6lion in. 
 the manner that the Otaheiteans btid done. 
 
 Huaheine was always \-ifited by Captain Cook on departing from 
 Otaheite. During his firft two voyages, the fovereign power over 
 Huaheine was A^efted in a friendly old man named Ore, who a6led as 
 resent for a boy named Tairetarea, He was not more than ten years 
 old m 1777, but Ore had then been obliged to refign the governm r-*-, 
 and no one feeming to fucceed him as regent, there was confequently 
 very little authority maintained. It has fince that time been vifited 
 by Lieutenant Watts, Captain Bligh, and Captain Edwards ; but no 
 farther information is afforded by their voyages refpedling the govern- 
 ment of the countr)^ In the clofe of 1701, it appears that the chiefs 
 of Huaheine, and of Tapooamanoo, acknowledged the fupremacy of 
 Otoo. The wars of Huaheine have always had a relation to the ifland 
 next to be mentioned. 
 
 Ulietea, or, more properly, Reiadea, is fituated feven Icag^ies 
 W. S. W. from Huaheine. It is wholly furroundcd by reefs, inter- 
 fpcrfed with fmall iflands, and forming feveral harbours. One of
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xxxix 
 
 thefe, upon the north-weftern coifl, is in latitude lO' 45' J, weft 
 longitude 151" 34' |. It is lefs populous and rcrtile than Huahcine, 
 although above twice its extent, and more rcfembling Otaheitc in its 
 appearance ; but, like the former, it has feNcral fait marfhcs or 
 lagoons. The inhabitants are in general fmaller and darker than thofe 
 of the preceding illands. Its importance in the duller to which it 
 belongs, is not now proportionate to its relative magnitude. A few 
 years before Captain Wallis's vifit to Otaheite, it was the moil emi- 
 nent of the group, and in ihitt alliance with the adjacent ifland of 
 Otaha, as v/cU as with Huahcine. Its decline appears to have origi- 
 nated in the feceffion of Otaha from this league. The fleets of 
 Huahcine and Ulietea were attacked by the fingle force of Bolabola. 
 The combat was likely to ilTue in favour of the united fleets, when 
 that of Otaha came up to affift Bolabola, and decided the victory by a 
 great flaughtcr of their opponents, who were already exhauftcd. They 
 purfued their advantage with fuch alacrity and fuccefs, that they con- 
 quered Huahcine, in an attack upon that illand two days after their 
 former engagement. Many inhabitants of both the fubjugated iflands 
 took refuge at Otaheite; and having obtained from thence a rein- 
 forcement of ten war canoes, they landed at Huaheine in the night, 
 and furprilcd their conquerors ; whom they partly dcftr'^yed, and 
 completely drove from that ifland. They could not, however, regain 
 the ground that had been loft at Ulietea. Its former fovcreign, Ooroo, 
 was permitted to return to his hereditary diftricft, Oopoa, at the fouth- 
 caftcrn point of the ifland ; but Toopaea and Omae, with many others, 
 were deprived of their polfeffions, and compelled to feek fupport in 
 other Illands, their property being feizcd by the vldoiious chiefs. The 
 latter foon quarrelled among themfelvcs. The people of Otaha claiming 
 an equal lliare of the fpoil, were attacked, and fubducd, by their for-, 
 mldable allies of Bolabola ; and a cliief from that ifland, named Oreo, 
 was appointed governor of Ulietea by the new fovcreign, Opoone. 
 Both thefe perfons were at Ulietea when Captain Cook vifited the 
 illand in l/Gg; and Oreo kept the fame power during his latter
 
 xl PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 voyages alfo ; but in that of 1/77, Ooroo, the former fovcrcign, had 
 removed to Huahehie ; and Ore, who had been regent of that ifland, 
 then refided at Ulietca. 
 
 At the death of Opoone his dominions were divided, and both 
 Ulietca and Otaha fell to the poffeffion of a brother of Iddea, now 
 known at Otaheite by the name of Mannemanne, who defigned that 
 at his own deceafe the Sovereignty of thefe iflands fhould revert to his 
 nephew Otoo. His authority does not, however, appear to have been 
 fufficient to fecure the reverfon, nor even the poffeffion of this dig- 
 nity ; of which he has lince been deprived ; either by his temporary 
 fubje<5ls, or by their neighbours of Bolabola. 
 
 The people of Ulietea behaved very fubmiffively to Cook upon his 
 firft viHt, apparently in the hope excited by Toopaea, that he would 
 refcue them from the yoke of Bolabola. He was alfo treated with 
 muc'h friendship by Oreo ; but the thefts which are cuflomary at thefe 
 iflands could not be prevented by the authority of the latter. The 
 mythology adopted by thefe poor heathens feems to be better under- 
 ftood here than in the other iflands, and even to be regularly taught 
 in its fcveral diftrifts. Both Toopaea and Mannemanne, after being 
 expelled from Ulietea, a6led as chief priefts at Otaheite. 
 
 Otaha is not more than two miles diftant from the northernmofl 
 point of the preceding illand ; and no paflage for fliipping has been 
 found through the reef which conncfts them. It is about half the 
 fize of Ulietea, which it refembles in its afpeft, but is ftill lefs fertile 
 or populous. Captain Cook vifited it in l/Og with his boats, in com- 
 pany with Opoone, who then principally rcfided here. In 1/73, 
 Lieutenant Pickerfgill went likcwife in a boat entirely round the ifland 
 to procure provifions ; but he was obliged to make rcprifals, in order 
 to recover his flock in trade v, hich had been ftolcn. The Englifh 
 were treated here with the fame tokens of refpc6t that the natives 
 Ihew to their own principal chiefs, in confequcnce of the account 
 which the latter had received from Toopaea. The clofe vicinity of 
 Ulietca has rendered it unncccffary for any fhip to anchor at Otalia.
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xU 
 
 Captain Edwards examined both thcfc iilands on the loth of May 
 1701, in his fcarch after Fktchcr Chrlftian and his companions. 
 
 BoLAJJoL.v (more ufually pronounced Hc>rabora) is fituated four 
 leagues N. W. of Otaha, to which it is inferior in extent; but the 
 reef with which it is furrounded is nearly full of iflets, much lartrer 
 than thofc which arc fcattercd amonti; the rocks that cnclofe Otaha 
 and Ulietea. It differs from thofe iilands, and from Huaheinc, in 
 having but one harbour on its coafl:; whereas the fliorcs of the others 
 being ftrongly indented, form like the coafts of Eimeo, numerous 
 places of flicker for fliipping. It is alfo diffinguiflicd by a very 
 lofty double-peaked mountain in its centre, and is more rude and 
 craggy than the rell of the Society ifles. Its callern fide has a barren 
 appearance ; the weftern is more fertile : a low border which fur- 
 rounds the whole, together with the iilands on the reef, are produc- 
 tive and populous. Its earlieft inhabitants arc faid to have been ma- 
 lefa(5lors banilhed from the neighbouring iflands. Their numbers 
 rapidly incrcafing, and their military prowefs rifing to great credit, 
 they cftablifhed their authority in both the iilands laft mentioned, 
 as well as in the two which are next to be defcribed. Their conquefls 
 acquired them fo much refpcft, that the fuppofed tutelary di-s Inity of 
 Bolabola, named Oora, or Oraa, had been adopted by the people of 
 Tciarraboo, in preference to two Imaginary deities, whom they for- 
 merly worfliipped. The Bolabolan warriors are punctured in a dirfe- 
 rcnt manner from thole of the more ealtern iilands. 
 
 Captain Cook did not land at Bolabola upon his firft or fceond 
 voyage. In 1777 he was prevented by contrary winds from anchoring 
 in the harbour, which is very fpacious ; and he landed in his boat, 
 to purchafc an anchor which had been loft by M. de BougainviUe at 
 Hedca, and had been conveyed from thence to Bolabola for the grati- 
 fication of Opoonc. That chief, although then very old and feeble, 
 was ftill univerfally ellecmed and feared. The ram which the Spa- 
 jaiards had left at Ovveitapeha, had alfo been ient to this diftant 
 |)lacc ; Captain Cook therefore prefented Opoone witli an cwc to 
 
 &
 
 xlii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 accompany it. That chief having died, probably daring the long 
 interval which elapfcd between the voyages of Cook and thofe of later 
 navigators, was fucceeded in his government of this and the following 
 iflands by his daughter. She was about twelve years old in 1774, and 
 had then been betrothed to a chief named Boba, who governed Otaha, 
 under Opoone, and was deligned to fucceed him in the fovereignty. 
 In 1791, when Captain Edwards vifited Bolabola to inquire after the 
 mutineers, a man, faid to be named Tatahoo, had the chief autho- 
 rity. The identity o( this perfbn with Boba is not rendered unlikely 
 by the difference of names, one title being feldom borne fo long a 
 time by the fame perfon. Thcfc four illands were named by Captain 
 Cook the Society Iflands, on account of the fhort dillances by 
 which they are feparated from each other. The licentious fociety 
 called Arreoe, extends both to this group and to Otaheite. The mem- 
 bers of it wander perpetually in great numbers from one ifland to an- 
 other, performing dances and plays, and indulging in every kind of 
 profligacy. 
 
 The fmall ifland of Maurooa lies about four leagues weft of the 
 northern part of Bolabola, to which it is fubjeft. It is wholly fur- 
 rounded by a reef, and its centre rifes in a high round hill. Its pro- 
 duclions and inhabitants are fimilar to thofe of the neighbouring 
 countries ; but it has not any harbour for fliipping. It is faid that 
 pearls are procured from this ifland by the people of Otaheite. 
 
 Toobae, confifting of fome very fmall low iflets, conncd:ed by a 
 reef, lies four or five leagues north of Bolabola ; to which it is fubfer- 
 vicnt, in a fimilar manner as Tethuroa, which it refembles, is to Ota- 
 heite. The ftated inhabitants arc only a few families ; but as the 
 coaft abounds with turtle, it is much refortcd to, not only by the So- 
 ciety iflanders, but by the natives of a low ifland to the eafliward, called 
 Papaa, which has not yet been fcen by Europeans. It is afl'erted that 
 their language is unintelligible to the natives of the Society ifles ; 
 which leads to the fuppofitlon that fomc colony has been formed there 
 of a different race from all the neighbouring iflanders. Two other
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xllii 
 
 fimilar aflcmblagcs of iflcts and reefs, which lie from thirty to forty 
 leagues more wcftward, arc known to the Society iflandcrs by the 
 names Mopeha and U^hcmiooa-oora. They were difcovcrcd by Captain 
 WalUs in 17O7, who called them Lord Howe's and Scilly iflands. 
 The latter are inhabited, the former are only occafionally frequented. 
 Both of them abound with cocoa-nut trees, turtle, the pearl-oyller, 
 and all kinds of filh con>mon to the climate. 
 
 To the eaflward of Otaheite are fcattercd numerous other iflands, 
 chiefly of the defcrlption of thofe lafl mentioned, and commonfy full 
 of people. Many of them were difcovercd by Qulros, Schouten and 
 Le Maire, Roggewein, Byron, Wallis, Carteret, Bougainville, Cook, 
 Edwards, Bligh, "Vancouver and Broughton : and fome arc now 
 added by Captain Wilfon. The intricacy and difficulty of the navi- 
 gation has procured them the titles of tiie Labyrinth, and the Dan- 
 gerous Archipelago. They have been found difpcrfcd from 14° to 27" 
 of latitude, and as far as 2.5° caftward from Otaheite. All the inha- 
 bitants appear to be of the fame race with the Society iflanders, but 
 are fomcwhat darker in their complexions, and more ferocious in their 
 manners. Many other Iflands, bcfidc thofe difcovered by Europeans, 
 have been defcribed by the natives of the Society ifles, as lying to the 
 caftward, fbuthward, and weftward of their group ; and feveral of 
 them are reprefented as lofty, fertile, and extenfive. An ifland, called 
 0//^/jtJ^, fituatcd in latitude 22° 27', 150° 47' weft longitude, was 
 difcovered by Captain Cook 13th Auguft 176Q, and rccognifed by 
 Toopaea, who was then on board the Endeavour. The fame perfon 
 laid down the pofitions of feventy-feven iflands, which were known 
 to him either by obfervation or report. Not far from Oheteroa is 
 Toobouai, already mentioned as the ifland where Fletcher Chriftian 
 attempted to form a fettlemcnt. It lies in latitude 23° 2i>', and 149° 
 23' weft longitude. Both thefe iflands are populous, although neither 
 of them is twenty miles in circuit. The former differs from the So- 
 ciety Iflands only in having no furrounding reef of coral. The latter 
 entirely refembles them in appearance; but the nati^•es arc more ledate
 
 xliv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 and lefs hofpifcablc. It was fs{k inhabited within a few pafl genera- 
 tions, by foine people who- had attempted ta go with a canoe from an, 
 ifland far to the weftward, toward aiiother with which they had cufto- 
 mary intercourfc, but were driven by tempeftuous weather upon Too- 
 bouai. Another canoe, in w hich was a chief of UHetea, an anccftor 
 of Iddea, paiTing from thence to Otaheite was hkewife driven upon 
 tliis ifland Ibme years later. He was admitted by thofe who had pre- 
 ceded him, to the chief authority at Toobouai ; and he divided the 
 countSy into three dillritfs, whic^i retain the names of Reiadea, Wa- 
 heine, and Taha, three of the Society iflcs. A tliird canoe alio drifted 
 hither, with the fkelctan of a man in it, which was recogniled by one 
 of the Otalieiteans w ho accompanied the nuitineers of the Bounty to 
 Toobouai, He had killed this man in one of the fea-fights betweert 
 Pomarre and Maheine, and was afterward obliged to efcape by fwim- 
 ming, leaving his canoe, with the corpfe in it, to the direction of the 
 winds and waves^ Accidents fmiilar to thefc are known to have oc- 
 curred in feveral other parts of this ocean. An inftanee is given by- 
 Captain Cook, of a canoe which, Ukewife in attempting the pafTage. 
 between Otaheite and Ulletea, was driven to. an. ifland called Wateooy 
 two hundred leagues diftant. Ol' twenty perfons, only foiir furvived 
 the famine and fatigue which they endured before they reached that, 
 place, where they were kindly received. Three of them were found- 
 there, and recognifed by Omae, in 17 77> when Captain Cook dilco- 
 vered the ifland, at Icaft twelve years after their arrival. It isfituated 
 in latitude 20° 1^ 158° 15' weft longitude. It is fmall, high, and po^- 
 pulous. There are feveral iflands in its neighbourhood, fome of whick 
 are fubjcA to Wateoo. All the inhabitants are of the fame race and 
 iiinguage with thofc already defcribed. 
 
 We may hope that the gofpel will- be fpread from Otaheite, by\ 
 means of its ufual intercourfe with other iflands, to - thofe of Maitea^, 
 Tethuroa, and Eimco, the four Society ifles, and the fmaller iflands. 
 dependent upon them. All thefc have fometimes been called the. 
 Society iflcs ; but the rcafon for v* hich fome of them wcxe fo named.
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. xW 
 
 hy Cook docs not apply to the reft. There is at tlie fame time fo- 
 ftrong a common refcmbluncc, and fo intimate a connexion among 
 the whole of this group, that it requires to be diftinguiflied by fonie 
 colle6live title. The name of liis prefent Majclty was given to Ota- 
 hcite by Captain Wallis ; but it has been fuperfeded, as all foreign 
 denominations fliould be, by that which the nativc3 themfelvcs give 
 to their country, lliey are not however known to give co/A'JZrjt? 
 titles to the groups of iflands inhabited by them. All thofe which. 
 have been defcribed were brought to notice, revifited, enriched -with 
 European articles of food and commerce, and at length have received 
 inflruftion in chriilianity, during the reign of his prefent Majefty : 
 whom may God prcferve! Other affemblages of iflands in the Pacific 
 Ocean have, for niuch Icfs important caufes, been named after Spaniili 
 monarchs ; as the Philippine and Caroline iilands. We fliall, there- 
 fore, ufc the liberty, when fpeaking of the whole group, to denominate 
 them the Georgian iflands. The direction wherein thoy lie renders' 
 the palfage to windward diiBcnlt and precarious;, and the diftind? 
 governments by which they arc mutually divided and oppofcd, muft. 
 be expctfled to retard, in fome meafure the progrefs of the gofpcl 
 through this clufter ; but we truft, through the divine bleffing, tlrat. 
 thefe obllacles will be furmountcd by the peculiar advantages attending^ 
 Qur numerous miffion at the principal ifland, the influence of whicli. 
 over the others has been already greatly increafcd.by its frequent in-- 
 tcrcourfe with the Englilli, 
 
 Geographical and hl/ioricaJ AccQunt of Tongatahao, and lhe,Ijiands\ 
 which are. conneSied xmth h. 
 
 TONGATABOO prcfents an afpcd: very different frem ttafi ofc 
 Otaheite.; to the weflward of which it is fituatcd, at a diftance of four • 
 hundred and eighty leagues, and of more than three hundred leagwca- 
 from Wateoo, the w^fternmofl of the iiflands before mentioned. It is
 
 xlvi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 about twenty leagues in circuit, and nearly triangular in its form. Its 
 northern fide is indented by a bay, which communicates with an 
 extenfive lagoon within the ifland. The weftern point of this inlet 
 was afcertained by Captain Cook to be in latitude 2 1 ° 8' ] 9", and 
 175^ 4' 42''' weft longitude. On this fide alfo an extenfive harbour is 
 formed by reefs and illands which cover its whole length. The ihore 
 is in this part low and fandy ; but afcends on the other fides of the 
 ifland, in a perpendicular coral rock, from feven to ten feet above the 
 lea at flood-tide, which rifes from three feet and a half to four feet 
 and three quarters. A reef that lies two miles N. W. by W. from 
 the northernmoft point of the ifland forms a road for flaipping ; but it 
 is far from being fecurc, the coral bank, which is the only anchoring- 
 ground, being very fleep, and extending only three cables' lengbh from 
 the fhore. The greater part of the coaft round the ifland is guarded 
 by fiat rocks about two hundred yards wide, and of greater extent to- 
 ward the fouth-eaftcrn point, near which is the moft elevated part of 
 the ifland, about one hundred feet high above the fea. The interior 
 is divcrfificd by many gentle rifmg grounds. The foil is loofc and 
 black to a confiderable depth, but intermixed with ftrata of rcddlfli 
 clay : it is chiefly very fertile, and in many parts highly cultivated ; 
 the plantations, in the midft of which the principal houfes are placed, 
 being alfo very neatly enclofcd. The vegetable productions are mofl:ly 
 fimilar to thofe of the places already defcribed, the cocoa-nut being 
 in greater perfection, the bread-fruit in lefs, than they are at the more 
 lofty Iflands. There are feveral plants at Tongataboo that were not 
 known at Otahcltc ; cfpeclally fhaddocks, and a new fpccies of the 
 Jcfults' bark, likely to equal that of Peru in medicinal virtue. It is 
 well furniflicd with trees, which grow very luxuriantly. Water is 
 fomcwhat fcarcc, and moftly brackllh. There were no dogs before 
 they were fupplied by Europeans. Of other animals there are the 
 fume kinds as at Otaheitc, and feveral fpecies of birds not common 
 to that ifland, particularly green parroquets with red feathers on their 
 heads. Some kinds of birds arc ufually tamed *nd fed by the inhabl-
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE^ xlvii 
 
 tants. There arc alfo bats in great numbers, and fomc of futh mag- 
 nitude, that the tips of their wings, when extended, are from three to 
 four feet apart. 
 
 This ifland was difcovered 27th January l0i3, by Abel Janfan 
 Tafman, a Dutch navigator. The inhabitants came unarmed on 
 board his fliips, vyithout the Icaft apparent dcfign or apprchenfion of 
 mifchief. They exchanged hogs, fowls, and fruits, for European 
 articles, which they alfo pilfered as they found opportunity ; but in 
 other rcfpefts they behaved in the moft courteous and friendly manner. 
 Tafman anchored in the roadftcad ; and fent his boats, to fearch for 
 frelTi water, into the bay already defcribed. To the former he gave 
 the ri^me of Van Dicmcn, and to the latter that of Maria, in honour 
 of the perfon then governor of the Dutch Eaft Indies and his lad , . 
 And elderly chief, who fcems at that time to have had the fovereign 
 authority, came repeatedly on board, fliewed the moft profound refpect 
 to his vifitors, and was highly gratified by the prefents which they 
 made to him. Among thcfe was a wooden bowl, probably the fame 
 that long afterwards was ufed by the fovereigns of Tongataboo as a 
 divining-cup, to convict pcrfons acculed of crimes ; and the fame 
 homage which is rendered to the fovereign when prefent, was paid 
 during his abfence to the bowl, as his reprefentative. 
 
 No weapons were feen by Tafman at Tongataboo ; which circum- 
 ftancc, as well as their unfufpicious conduct toward ftrangers fo for- 
 midably equipped, indicates that they had been accuftomcd to a ftatc 
 of general peace and fecurity. No quarrel occurred during this inter- 
 view ; and the Dutch, after having obtained abundance of provifions, 
 but very little water, proceeded to the adjacent iilands to the north- 
 ward. 
 
 Captain Cook, accompanied by Captain Fumcaux, vifited this 
 place in 1773, having prcvioufly fpcnt fbme days at the neighbouring 
 ifland of Eooa. They anchored in Van Dicmen road, Odober 3d; 
 and the inhabitants, who had met them half way between the iflands, 
 behaved with the fame confidence and kindnefs, that they had Ihcwn,
 
 xlvili PRELIMINAKY DISCOURSE. 
 
 one hundred and thirty years before, to Tafman. They fell ahb to the 
 fame practices of pilfering ; for which feme of them who were pecu- 
 liarly daring were punifhed, \Aithout betraying appearances of refent- 
 .ment. Hete-hete and Omae, who were on board the Ihips, were at 
 .firfb perplexed by a difference of dialed: ; as thefe iflanders made ufe of 
 the confonants f, k, and hard g, which are unknown at the Georgian 
 iflands ; but they feon perceived the identity of the radical language, 
 and became able to converfe fluently with the natives. 
 
 A man, named Attago, who had fome authority among his coun- 
 trymen, attached himfelf to Captain Cook, and rendered him eflcntial 
 fervices. He introduced the Englifli to an elderly chief of fuperior 
 rank, named Toobou, who likewife afted in a friendly manner, al- 
 though with a degree of referve. A perfon of much higher dignity 
 was alfo met with, named Latoo Lyibooloo, to whom homage was 
 paid by all ranks, although he appeared A'cry defedlive of intelle^l. 
 He bore the title of Areekee, which was applied to no other perfon 
 except Poulaho, then the fovereign chief, and fifth in defcent from 
 the perfon who reign<?d at the period of Tafman's vifit. The mother 
 of Libooloo, who lived at a diftant ifland of the fiime group, was 
 elder filler ot Poulaho's father ; and had this fon, and two daughters, 
 by a man wh<Lcame from the extcnfivc neighbouring iflands named 
 Fcjc. The members of this family were called Tammaha, and ranked 
 above Poulaho himfelf, notwithftanding his poffeffion of the fupremc 
 power, either on account of their mother's fcniority, or of fome pre- 
 eminent dignity of their foreign parent. One of the daughters rcfided 
 with their mother, the other at Tongataboo. Libooloo had alfo an 
 infant fon at Eooa, to whom extreme attention was paid. Poulaho 
 was then abfent from Tongataboo. 
 
 It became neccffary to prohibit the purchafe of curiofitics from the 
 iflanders, in arder to obtain adeqviatc fupplics of food : thefe were 
 afterwards abundantly furniflicd. Weapons of a xcry formidable na- 
 ture were then found among them, although they ufually went un- 
 armcd> Tlieir fpcars were barbed in a very dangerous manner, and
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. >lis 
 
 tlicir clubs' very curioufly carved. Some ot* their canoes were executed 
 in a ftylc far fuperior to thofc of Otaheite, the planks being fcathcr- 
 cdgcd, and lapped over, which prevented the water entciing, as 
 it continually docs into the others. They had lefs cloth, but more 
 matting than the Georgian iflandcrs : it was more neatly and beauti- 
 fully made, and was vxfed to cover their floors, as vfell as for drcfs. 
 Their bafket-work alfo difcovered much ingenuity, and their cloth was 
 glazed fo as to refift wet. The women were far Icfs immodeft ; but 
 the men were more generally addided to the pepper-root draxight, 
 here called kava. The fubmiffion paid to the chiefs, and the diftinc- 
 tion of private property were much greater here than at Otaheite. An 
 old drunken man, then thought to be a prieft, was refpedled as a pcrfon 
 of rank ; but fome images, found in the houfe where the dead were 
 interred, were evidently objctis of contempt rather than of worfhip ; 
 and no article of food was depofitcd in thofc places. Many of the 
 people were obfcrved to have loft their little fingers. Their mode of 
 falutation is by touching their nofes together ; and, unlike the Ota- 
 hcitcans, they ufe an cxpreffion of thankfulnefs for whatever they 
 receive, always lifting it over their heads. They were then little ac- 
 quainted with the value of iron, of which the only article found among 
 them was an awl, made from a nail. This had been brought from a 
 diftant ifland, w'here Captain Wallis had left it ; the articles which 
 Tafman gave them having been expended, and forgotten fmce his 
 voyage : the tradition of his vifit had nevcrthclefs been preferved, and 
 even its period was afcertained by them. 
 
 Captain Cook revifited Tongataboo in company with Captain Clerkc 
 in 1 777 ; and anchored on the l6th of June in Maria bay, the accefs 
 to which through the reef w^as found difficult. They had fpent a 
 confiderable time among the more northern iflands that are fiibjeft to 
 Tongataboo ; and were accompanied from thence by Poulaho, whofe 
 family name was found to be Futtafaihe, by which title his brother, 
 and his fon then under twelve years old, were ufually called. Poulaho 
 was Ihort, and extremely corpulent, about forty years old, and in his 
 
 h
 
 1 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 behaviour fenfible and fedate. His confbrt was daughter of an elderly 
 chief named Marewage. Her brother Fenou, who was then thirty 
 years of age, filled the office of comn)ander in chief; the raoft fre- 
 quent duties of which appeared to confift in the punifhment of cri- 
 minals. His authority, it w^as faid, extended to the conduft of the 
 fovereign himfelf Both the father and fon were thin and tall. Mare- 
 w^age had alfo another fon, named Tooboueitoa ; and a brother named 
 Toobou, much older than the chief of that name before mentioned. 
 All thefe perfons were highly reverenced by their countrymen ; and 
 they vied with each other in the profufion of entertainments which 
 they provided for their Engllfh guefts, to whom a houfe was affigned 
 at the wcftern ' point of the creek leading into the lagoon. In the 
 neighbourhood was obferved a curious caufeway, built of coral ftone 
 acrofs a morafs, with a kind of circus in its centre, apparently of very 
 ancient conftruftion. The country immediately around was unculti- 
 A^ated ; and the \a{k concourfe of people who came either to perform 
 in the entertainments exhibited to the Englifli, or to be fpeftators of 
 them, was produ6live of various inconveniences. Several thefts were 
 committed; but no ad; of violence, except on a goat that Captain 
 Cook had intended to leave there. He prcfented a bull and cow, a 
 horfe and mare, a ram and two ewesj with fome goats, to Poulaho 
 and Fcnou, who were the perfons moft likely to take care of them. 
 A couple of rabbits, which had been given to the latter, had already 
 bred ; and ibmc Otaheitcan dogs, which had been left in 1/73 with 
 Attago, had multiplied. Some of the animals having previoufly been 
 ilolen from Captain Cook, he had ventured to put the king and fe- 
 veral chiefs into confinement, till reftitution was made. The natives 
 aflembled in arms to releafe them, but by Poxilaho's order they de- 
 fifted ; and the animals being brought back, he and his nobles were 
 fet at liberty, without any diminution of their friendfliip, or even in- 
 terruption of their entertainments. At the clofe of thefe, fome offi- 
 cers, wandering over the ifland, were plundered both of the articles 
 they had taken for trade, and of their arms. On receiving this Intel-
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. li 
 
 licence,. Poulaho and the other chiefs prudently removed from the 
 ncighbovirhood, to avoid a fecond captivity ; but tlicy returned upon 
 being afl'urcd that no violence would be ufed, and they caufed the 
 things which had been ftolen to be rcftorcd. Captain Cook then \ i- 
 fited Mooa, a village fituated a league from the bay, upon the banks 
 of the inlet, where the chiefs have places of abode and elegant j)lanta- 
 tions. The boat and its contents were left unguarded on the bank, 
 by the dircftion of Poulaho, who engaged that nothing would be 
 flolen. The Ihips were found, upon their return, to have been like- 
 wife exempt from depredation, through the vigilance and authority of 
 Fenou : but a quarrel took place the following day between a working 
 party and fome of the natives, three of whom were confined and flog- 
 ged, and a fourth fliot through the neck with a ball by the ccntry. 
 The poor man narrowly efcaped death, and no meafurcs were taken 
 for revenge, cither by the chiefs or the common people. The king 
 dining on board feemcd highly pleafed with the pewter plates ; and 
 being prefentcd with one, faid that he would fubflitute it for the 
 bowl which had before fuftained the offices of chief juflice and vice- 
 roy. At another dinner, which was given on fliore by Captain Cook, 
 he invited, at Poulaho's defire, Mongoula Kaipa, the fifler of Latoo 
 Libooloo. The king had been accullomcd to abftain from eating in 
 her brother's prelence, without fliew ing him any other mark of re\c- 
 rence : but to her he paid the fame homage that he received from his 
 own fubjcifls, embracing her feet w ith his hands. 
 
 Captain Cook prolonged his flay till July 5, to obferve an cclipfc of 
 the fun ; and he was delayed I'everal days later for want of a favour- 
 able \vind to carry the fhips out of the harbour by a channel that he 
 had difcovered to the eaftward, which was fat'er than the northern 
 pallagc whereby they had entered the bay. During this time he rc- 
 viHted Mooa, and was prefent at a curious ccremonv called the nalchc. 
 On the nth of July they, with fome difficulty, cleared the reefs by 
 which the harbour is formed, and proceeded to E5oa. 
 
 It is not known that any other navigator vifited Tongataboo before 
 
 h2'
 
 m PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 the lafl day of 1/87, when M. de la Peroufc pafled it to the weft ward 
 without anchoring. He laid to, off the Ibuthern fliore ; and feven 
 or eight canoes having approached within twenty yards of the French 
 fhips, the natives leaped out of them, and fwam alongfidc with cocoa- 
 nuts in each hand, which they exchanged very honeftly for bits of 
 iron, nails, and fmall hatchets. They foon after went on board with 
 confidence and cheerfulnefs ; and a young man, who aflertcd that he 
 was the fon of Fenou, received feveral prefents wdth cries of joy. He 
 preffed them to land, and promifed abundance of provifions, which 
 their canoes were not capable of bringing off. The iflanders were 
 noify, but had no appearance of ferocity, although they brought fome 
 clubs in their boats. They had all loft two joints of their little fingers- 
 La Peroufe bore away, the evening of the following day, feeing no 
 profpcil of obtaining provifions without coming to an anchor. 
 
 Captain Edwards, in the Pandora, paid a vifit almoft equally tran- 
 fient to this ifland in the latter end of July 17QI, in fearch after the 
 mutineers of the Boimty. He obtained provifions, but could get no 
 water that was not brackifli. It was underftood that Fenou had then 
 lately died. 
 
 Meflrs. D'Entrecafteaux and Huon, in the French Hoops La Re- 
 cherche and L'Efperance, anchored at Tongataboo on the 3d of March 
 i 7Q3, and were very hofpitably entertained. They ftaid a week, but 
 the detail of their vifit has not tranfpircd. 
 
 No other European veflel is known to have touched at this ifland ; 
 for the account given by the Europeans who were found here by the 
 Duff, cannot be depended upon. It is not improbable that Tonga- 
 taboo might be vifited by the Spanilh navigators Malefpini and 
 Baftementc, who are faid to have difcovercd in this neighbourhood a 
 group of iflands, called the Babacos, about the fame time that the 
 French floops paffcd by. 
 
 The intcrcourfe of Europeans at Tongataboo having been fo much 
 lefs frequent than at Otaheite, it was with fomewhat lefs confidence 
 that a Biiffion was attempted at the former than at the latter place.
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. liil 
 
 The refult will appear from the relation of the voyage, which alfo 
 throws light upon feveral circumftances, for which preceding naviga- 
 tors could not account. The nature of the government of this ifland 
 is not yet wholly developed. Captain Cook was much at a lofs 
 refpcding it, and had fuppofed Fenou to be the fovereign, till he 
 became acquainted with Poulaho. When thefe two perfonages met, 
 the miftake Was immediately correded : but the dignity and power of 
 the commander in chief, which feem, like the fovereignty, to be here- 
 ditary, are fo great, that the apparent fuperiorlty of one above the 
 other mufl depend in a confiderable degree upon the perfonal qualities 
 of thofe who fill thefe ftations. Poulaho being dead, his fon Futtafaihe 
 fuccecded him in the fovereignty ; but he being a voluptuous man, 
 the government is chiefly conduced by Fenou Toogahouc, the prefcnt 
 commander in chief, who is faid to be a ne]>hew of the former. His 
 fuperiorlty as a warrior and as a man of bufmefs, gives a preponderance 
 to his authority. The influence of the royal family fcems alfo to 
 have been dim'niflied by a ci\il war, which Toogahoue had waged 
 with fuccefs. .The government here, as at Otaheite, is evidently in a 
 great meafure ariftocratical ; but the power of the chiefs is more de- 
 fpotic at Tongataboo, although exerclfed with lefs outrage to private 
 property. The officers of Hate here likewife maintain a kind of ge- 
 neral )urifdi(5tion : while at Otaheite every thing feems to be decided 
 cither by fuperior force, or by arbitration in the feparate dillricls; and 
 criminal punifhment is there unknown, except in the fele6tion ot ob- 
 noxious characters for occafional facrifices. Tlie latter feem to be of- 
 fered at Tongataboo much lefs frequently, and only upon lunereal oc- 
 cafions. Infant murders are here unknown ; as well as intant fuccef- 
 fion, and the fociety of arreoes, which appear to be principal caufes ot 
 that horrid cuftom in the Georgian iflands. The lafcivious pradices 
 which are almofl; univerflU ther^, feem to be ufually rcfl:rid;ed here to- 
 common proftltutes of the lovveft clafs. Polygamy is eftabliflied, but 
 adultery is punifhed with death. The neceffity of cultivation, and the 
 regard paid to private property, have rendered the people ot Tongataboo
 
 Viv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 more ingenious and induftrious: and being fcldom at war, they appear 
 to be remarkably tree, in general, from habits of fufpicion or revenge. 
 Their mufcular ftrength and activity are great ; although in fize they 
 are much exceeded by the chiefs of Otaheite, and of fome other 
 iflands. Intrepidity and dexterity are ftriking features of their general 
 ch arable r ; and thefe qualities naturally render thofc individuals who 
 are the moft depraved, peculiarly mifchievous. 
 
 Tongataboo, confidered in itfelf, is evidently defirable as the feat of 
 a miffion ; but its principal importance arifcs from the, extenlive and 
 intimate connexion that it has with other iflands. While moft ot 
 thofe which are difperfed over the Pacific Ocean arc independent of 
 each other, Tongataboo is the centre of government to a furprifing 
 number. The natives named more than one hundred and fifty of 
 thefe when Captain Cook was laft there; but feveral are uninhabited, 
 many of them very fmall, and fome were at that time independent of 
 their government, and even hoftile to it. Only fifteen of thefe are 
 lofty, and few are fo large as Tongataboo. Captairt' Cook explored 
 more than fixtv of the whole number, and other navisrators have dif- 
 covered many of the remaining iflands of this group. The dirediion 
 in which it chiefly extends being north and fouth, renders the com- 
 munication each way pra6licable during the trade wind ; and moft, 
 if not all the iflands, are regularly vifited by the fo^ereign or the com- 
 mander in chief. 
 
 It remains to give fome account of other remarkable iflands, which 
 have been difcovered in this neisrhbom-hood ; and firft of fuch as are 
 immediately fubjed; to Tongataboo. 
 
 The ifland of Eooa lies fouth-eaft of Tongataboo, from whence it 
 is diftant nearly four leagues. Its form approaches to an oval, with 
 its longeft diameter from north to fouth. Its eaftern fide is placed by 
 Captain Cook in 1 ;" 1*^ -lo' weft longitilde, and its fouthern extremity 
 in latitude 21*^ I'o'. It is about ten leasnies in circuit, and almoft as 
 high as the Iflc of Wight, being perceptible from a diftancc of twelve 
 leagues at fca. The fouth-eaftern coaft rifes immediately from the
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Iv 
 
 ica with great ineqiialitics ; but on the north-vvcft part arc vallcxs, 
 meadows, and plains, of confiderable extent. From tluit quarter the 
 ground afcends gradually to the higheft part, which then continues 
 nearly level. The foil on the heights is chiefly compofed of a {oft 
 iimdy flone, but in other parts is ufually a reddifli clay, of a great 
 depth. A deep valley, which is two hundred feet above the level of 
 the fea, confifts almoft wholly of coral rock, but is covered with trees. 
 The cultivated plantations chiefly border upon the coafls. There arc 
 fprings of fine water in various parts of the ifland, but none of them 
 arc conveniently accefliblc to fliipping. The bell anchorage was found 
 upon the north- weft fide, in latitude 2l" 20^ 30^^ on a gravelly bank 
 extending two miles from the land, with depths from twenty to thirty 
 fathom. Abreaft of it is a creek, which atTords convenient landing 
 for boats at all times of the tide. In its produce and inhabitants this 
 ifland rcfembles Tongataboo, except that it is not the ufual refidence 
 of any of the fupcrior chiefs, although feveral of them have property 
 at Eooa. It has, notwithftanding, greatly the advantage of Tonga- 
 taboo, for plealantnefs of lituation, as well as for goodnefs of frcfh 
 water ; and apparently muft exceed it in liilubrity. 
 
 The ifland was difcovered by Tafman, who did not land there ; nor 
 does it appear certain that any navigator befide Cook has been upon 
 it. He vifited Eooa in 1773, before he came to Tongataboo; and in 
 1777, after he left that place. At both times he rrtet with the moft 
 cordial reception, although he coukl not obtain th-e fame profufion of 
 fupplies that was laviflied upon the Englilh by the court of Tongata- 
 boo. A perfon named Taoofa, who exercifed the principal authority, 
 eatertained them with a public fpeftacle of dancing, boxing, wrefl:- 
 ling, &e. which, though upon a fmaller fcale than at the feat of go- 
 •vcrnmcnt, collected together a concourfe of people, and was produc- 
 tive, as ufual, ot fomc diforderly conducH:. The peaceable and affec- 
 tionate behaviour of the people, in general, was fuch as to induce him 
 to name thefc iflands, and the others which he vifited in the fame 
 group. The FRiEJfDLY Illands. To the anchorage at Eoca he gave
 
 Ivi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 the munc of Engllfli roud. He left a ram and two ewes upon this 
 
 illaiid. 
 
 The third ifland of this group which requires our notice is Ana- 
 aiooKA. It is fituated in latitude 20^^ 15', 174'' 3l' %veft longitude, 
 about eighteen leagues diftant from Tongataboo, which it refembles 
 in its afpe(5l. Its form is triangular, and none of its fides exceeds the 
 length of four miles. Its extent is alfb diminiflied by a large fait la- 
 soon, which almoft cuts off its fouth-eaftern angle from the reft. Its 
 coafts are furrounded by fmall iflets, fand-banks and reefs. A harbour 
 is formed by thefe on the fouth-weftern fide of the iJiand, with an- 
 chorage in ten and twelve fathom, the bottom coral fand. It is w-ell 
 fheltered, but no frefh wT.tcr is to be obtained near the fliorc. On the 
 north-wxlt fide are two coves, to which there are narrow patlages for 
 boats through the reef. Juft to the fouthward of thefe is a bank, free 
 from rocks, with twenty and twenty-five fathom depth, one or two 
 miles from fliore. The coaft rifes nearly perpendicular fifteen or twenty 
 feet from the fea, and the interior appears lc\cl, excepting fome fmall 
 hillocks, and a more confiderablc one toward the centre of the ifland. 
 it is fimilar to Tongataboo in foil and productions, but is lefs culti- 
 vated, even in proportion to its fize. It is however better furniflied 
 with water, there being a pond about three quarters of a mile from 
 the landing place on the north-weft fide, of half a mile in circuit. 
 The water is a little brackifli, but having in part anfwered the pur- 
 pofcs of navigators, their vifits to this ifland have been more frequent 
 than to thofe already mentioned; although the diftance from their 
 •fliips has rendered w^atering hazardous as w^cll as difticult. 
 
 Tafman anchored here on the 2.5th of January 10-13, and was 
 treated very kindly by the natives in general, and by a chief, whofc 
 prefence and authority probably rendered this vifit the more tranquil. 
 He gave to the ifland the name of Rotterdam, having called the for- 
 mer two Amfterdam and Middlcbvirg. Captain Cook firft arrived at 
 Anamooka on the 20th of June 1774 in the Rcfolution, having loft 
 the company of Captain Furncaux in the Adventure^ fubfequcnt to
 
 PRELIMINARy DISCOURSE. Ivii 
 
 their vifit to Tongataboo the prccoding year. He approached Ana- 
 mooka from the fouth-caftvvard, alter having doubled the low iflands 
 and llaoals lying in that direction, to the latitude of 20° 25^ Thefts 
 were more frequently committed here than at the fouthernmoft iflands 
 of the group ; the charadier of the women appeared alfo to be much 
 more licentious, and that of the men more daring. No farther mif- 
 chief than plunder was attempted, and this was leverely puniflicd by 
 their European guefts. None of the principal people were prcfcnt to re- 
 llrain the unruly ; but fome of the nativ es dillinguiflied themfelves by 
 the goodncfs of their conduft, and moft of them behaved well, except 
 when peculiar temptation inflamed their cupidity for the novelties of 
 which their vifitors were poflcflcd. The chaftifement inflidled upon 
 the offenders effcdually improved their behaviour before the departure 
 of the fliip, which took place on the 29th of June. 
 
 Captain Cook returned to this ifland in 1777j in company with 
 Captain Clcrkc ; and anchored in the road on the ifl: of May. A 
 perfon called Toobou then rcfided as chief, and another, named Taipa, 
 who alio ad:ed as principal officer in Poulaho's family, became very 
 ferviceable. He introduced to them Fenou, who reforted hither from 
 Tongataboo on being informed of their arrival. This great man pre- 
 vailed upon Captain Cook to fail to the iflands called Hapae, in pre- 
 ference to the former, which he meant to have immediately revifited. 
 They accordingly proceeded to Hapae on the 14 th of the fame month, 
 by which time the two fliips' companies feemed riearly to have drained 
 Anamooka of proviflons ; but on returning early in June, the flock 
 was found furprifmgly recruited. Thefts had been pradlifed during 
 their former flay, in a private manner, even by fome of the chiefs, 
 till they were compelled to make reflitution ; and on the return of 
 the veffels, when all the people of rank were abfent, ver}' little order 
 was obfervcd, Poulaho and Fenou arrived loon afterward, and \\ ithia 
 three days accompanied the na^■igators toward Tongataboo. 
 
 Lieutenant Bligh, in the Bounty, anchored at Anamooka on th^ 
 23d of April l/SQ. The natives, who immediately came along-lide
 
 Iviit PRELLMINAEY DISCOURSE, 
 
 with yams and cocoa-nuts In their canoes, did not offer to come on' 
 board till they had afked permilTion. The next day he was vifited 
 by Taipa, who was then old and lame, but retained the impreffion of 
 his intercourfe with the Engllfh twelve years before, in fuch a degree 
 that he pcrtcdly underftood their pronunciation of South-Sea words, 
 ' which no other perfon there was able to do. He informed them that 
 their old friends were then living at Tongataboo, and he offered a 
 large houfe for the ufe of the Englifh, fuppofing they would, as for- 
 merly, have had a party on fliore. Several things that were ftolen 
 were reftored by his influence. Some more daring robberies being 
 committed, and the natives crowding in large canoes from the neigh- 
 bouring iilands, Mr. Bligh thought it neceffary, on the 20th, when 
 the fliip was under fail, to confine fevcral of the chiefs, in order to re- 
 cover what had been loff. This meafure producing no other effed: 
 than extreme diflrefs in his prifoners, he difmiffed them with prefents, 
 and departed. Pine-apples, which had been planted in the iflands vi- 
 fited by Captain Cook, were found here at that time in a flourifliing 
 ftate. 
 
 Captain Edwards twice vifited Anamooka in 1791j having ap- 
 pointed this ifland for a place of rendezvous with the fchooner that 
 had attended him from Otaheitc, but afterward loft company of the 
 Pandora. He firft anchored here on the 2gth of June, and immedi- 
 ately dilpatchcd Lieutenant Hayward to inquire at the iflands of Ha- 
 pae and Fcje, after Fletcher Chriftian and his party, but without fuc- 
 cefs, excepting in their traffic for provifions. The licentioufnefs of 
 the women at Anamooka feems to have been greatly promoted by 
 European profligacy during this vifit ; and inftanccs of ferocity were 
 manifcftcd by the native men, which had till then been unknown ; 
 efpecially in one cafe, where Lieutenant Corner narrowly cfcaped 
 being murdered. They were, notwithftanding, very attentive to the 
 inftrudions. which the officers gave them on the cultivation of the 
 exotic plants, and tranfplanted the pine-apples immediately on re- 
 ceiving dircdions. Poulaho and one of the Toobous, who had met
 
 rRELlMINARY DISCOURSE. lit: 
 
 ■Captain Edwards at Anamook?., iiiilcd with him early in July to tlic 
 neighbouring ifland of Toofoa, v.hither they were going to collecl tri- 
 bute. On the 29th of that month he again anchored here, and being 
 ftill difappointcd of intelligence about the fchoonor, departed the 3d 
 of Auguft. 
 
 No fubfequcnt vlfit to this Ifland has been made known. The de- 
 tail already given is more than proportionate to the importance of the 
 place. It is ranked by the natives among the fmaller illands of their 
 archipelago, which contains thirty-five larger tha'n this. A difeafe of 
 the leprous kind, which feems to be common to all the illands of this 
 ocean, is faid to prevail more at y\namooka than in any other part of 
 this group. The venereal difcafc, which was certainly introduced 
 here by the Englifli, has alfo probably made a dreadful progrefs, in 
 confequencc of the unreftraincd debauchery prad:ifed by its lail vi- 
 fitors, who are acknowledged to have been greatly infected when they 
 arrived at this place from Otaheitc. Wood being an article procured 
 here by all the fliips, it is neceflary to mention the damage that has 
 been incurred in cutting a tree, called faitanoo by the natives, which 
 is a fpecies of pepper, and yields a milky juice that injures the eyes 
 and fkin of the Avorkmen. 
 
 The ifland mentioned above, named Toofoa, is fituated N. N. W. 
 from Anamooka, at a diftancc of ten leagues : it is obfcrvable from 
 thence by means of its height, and of a volcano at its fummit. 
 which almoft conflantly emitted fmoke, and fometimes threw up 
 ftones. Its Ihores are fleep, and covered with black fand. The rocks 
 are hollow, and in fome places of a columnar form. The mountain, 
 ■except in fpots that appear to have been recently burned, is co^'ercd 
 with verdure, flirubs, and trees. The coaft is about five leagues in 
 circuit. To the north-eaft of this ifland, and only two miles diftant. 
 is another of much lefs extent, but of thrice its height, which is called 
 Kao ; it is a mo\intainous rock, of a conical form. Both thefe were 
 difcovcred by Tafman, and have been fccn by every fubfequcnt navi- 
 gator of this group. Captain Cook paflcd between them^ and had no
 
 Ix PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 foundings in the channel by which they are feparated. Each ifland 
 was underftood to be inhabited, but no European had landed upon 
 either, at the time when the mutiny fuddenly occurred in the Bounty, 
 two days after the departure of that vefTel from Anamooka. Lieutenant 
 Bligh was forced into a boat with eighteen of his people, when ten. 
 jeaa;ues fouth-wcft from Toofoa. He attempted, therefore, to get 
 an immediate fupply of br6ad-fruit and water at that ifland, which, 
 as he underftood, afforded thofe articles. The next morning, 28th 
 April 1789-, they landed in a cove on the north-weft coaft, in latitude 
 1q" 41'. They climbed the heights, but obtained only fome cocoa- 
 nuts and plantains, and a few gallons of water from holes in the 
 rocks. The weather being too boifterous to proceed, they flieltered 
 themfelves by night in an adjacent cave. On the ift of May feveral 
 of the inhabitants brought them a fmall fupply, and retired peaceably 
 in the evening. The next day their number greatly increafed. Some 
 principal perfons alio came round the north fide of the ifland in ca- 
 noes, and among them one of the chiefs whom Lieutenant Bhgh had 
 threatened to carry from Anamooka, upon an occasion which has al- 
 ready been mentioned. They offered to accompany him to Tonga- 
 taboo when the weather fliould moderate ; but fome f)'mptoms ap- 
 pearing of a defign to obtain by force the articles that he could not 
 afford to barter with them, he determined to depart that evening, as 
 they were not inclined to retire. They had previoufly fold him fome 
 of their weapons, and they now allowed his people to carry their pro- 
 perty into the boat ; but they would not fuffer him to embark, and a- 
 conteft enfued, in which moft of the Englifli were wounded by ftones, 
 and one of them was killed. The reft efcaped, and bore away toward 
 New Holland ; from whence they reached the Eaft Indies in their 
 boat, enduring extreme hardftiip, but no farther lofs of lives. 
 
 This unhappy event furnifhes the only mftance of an European 
 being killed at any ifland of this group, notwithftanding the feverity, 
 and even the cruelty, which has frequently been exercifed tov^ard the. 
 natives, on account of the thefts committed by them. That their
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. hi 
 
 ea^crncfs to obtain our property is fuch as to endanger a fmall party 
 landing at any of the lels civilized iflands, is evident, not only from 
 Captain Bligh's experience, but alfo from that of a few people on 
 board the fchooner which had accompanied the Pandora from Otahcitc. 
 After parting company, as before mentioned, flie unfortunately came 
 to Toofoa inilead of Anamoolta, where Captiiin Edwards probably was 
 at the very time. They obtained fome water and provifions from the 
 natives ; but the latter attempted to fcizc the veflel, in which there 
 were only nine people. Thcfc, however, being amply provided with 
 fire-arms, fuccefsfully refiftcd the afl'ault of numbers vaflly fuperlor. 
 Few day^ could apparently have elapfed after this occurrence, when 
 the Pandora arrived at Toofoa with Poulaho on board. Lieutenant 
 Hayward, who had been there with Bligh, recollecled fome of their 
 former affailants. They fliunned his notice, and had perhaps more 
 reafon for doing fo than he knew, as at that time he. received no inteL- 
 ligence of the fchooner. 
 
 Hapae (fometimes pronounced Habci) has been mentioned as the 
 place to which Captain Cook accompanied Fenou and Taipa at the 
 defire of the former, from Anamooka in 1 777. It is reckoned by the 
 riatives as one of the more extenfive iflands of their group, but it con^ 
 fifls of four or more low iflets, fix or feven miles each in length, 
 which are joined together by a reef. They are not more than two or 
 three miles broad. That iflet which is moft cultivated is called Le- 
 fooga, or Lefooka ; and this alone exceeds Anamooka in the number 
 and extent of its plantations. At its fbuth-wcftern end is an artificial 
 mount fifty feet in diameter at the fummit, which is raifcd to the 
 height of forty feet above tlic reft of the ground. The Refolution and 
 Difcovery anchored abreaft of the reef that connects this ifland with 
 another to the north-eafi which is called Foa, in twenty-four fathom, 
 with a bottom of coral fand. A creek in- the fliore of Lefooga, three 
 quarters of a mile from the fhips, affoided coiwcnicnt landma; at all 
 times. Proper meaftires having been taken bv Fenou and Taipa, ail . 
 abundant fupply of provifions was obtained, and public diveriions wera
 
 ixii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 fplendidly exhibited ; but thefe chiefs were lefs careful to prevent the 
 theft of European articles. They left Captain Cook on the 22d of the - 
 fame month, requelling him to wait till they returned from Vavou, 
 which they reprcfented to be two days fail in their canoes to the north- 
 ward of Hapae. Finding it difficult to obtain fupplies in their ab- 
 sence, he removed on the 20th, fouthward of Lefooga, and fearched 
 in vain for a channel between the low iflands. That v.hich lies next 
 to Lefooga, in this direAion, is called Hoolaeva, and is deftitute of 
 cultivation, being ufed only for fifliing and catching turtle ; but an 
 artificial mount, fimilar to that in Lefooga, was obferved upon it. 
 Poulaho met the fliips before their departure, and accompanied them 
 on the 2Qth, in their paifagc among the fmall iflands and reefs, which 
 obltruci the navigation between Hapae and Anamooka. 
 
 Fran. Ant. Maurelle, a Spanifli difcoverer, was entangled in the 
 fame navigation in March 1/81, after having been very hofpitably en- 
 tertained at fome iflands immediately to the northward of Hapac. He 
 found a paffage with a depth of five fathom, between the latter and 
 the iflands to the weflward of it, which had been mifled by Captain 
 Cook. Meeting with frefli obftacles among thofe iflands which lie 
 diretlly north of Anamooka, he bore away toward Kao and Toofoa. 
 While amidft the iflands, he trafficked with the natives, who came 
 off to the fhip in their canoes. A perfon who was faid to be the chief 
 over forty-eight iflands, alfo came on board after fending prefents. He 
 promifed the fame public diverfions and contributions with which 
 the Englifli had been entertained, to induce Maurelle to land. The 
 moft fouthern point of the ifland, where this man is faid to haA'e re- 
 fidcd, is placed in the latitude of 19° 39^ The longitudes affigned by 
 Maurelle arc feveral degrees too far to the weftward, He did not fuf- 
 pe6t the iflands which he named Galvez, Gran Montana, and San 
 Chriilioval, to be thofe called by the natiACs Hapac, Kao, and Too- 
 foa ; and he left Anamooka and Tongataboo out of fight to the cafl- 
 ward, but faw the two fmall rocky iflands, Hoonga Tonga and Hoonga 
 Hapac, in latitude 20° 32', and named them Las Culcbras. He dif-
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. h\n 
 
 covered a danc;cro\is reef, extending two leagues, and leaving to the 
 Southward a channel, three leagues wide, between the reef and thofe 
 inlands. He alfo faw the high uninhabited fjiot, difcovered and named 
 Pylftaarts ifland by Tafman, in latitude 22^ 22^ 175° 5g' weft longi- 
 tude. This he called I^a Sola. 
 
 An ifland, lying in the latitude of 17° 57', l 75^ if/ r,Y' weft lon- 
 gitude, was the fiift that MuurcUe difcovered in approaching the 
 Friendly Iflands. He fell in with it 20th February 1/81, and named 
 it Amargura (Bitternefs), on account of his y^^;v difappointment 
 of obtaining refreflimcnts from it, no landing-place being found even 
 for boats, and the iiland itfelf having a fmgular appearance of barren- 
 nefs. Upon a confiderable mountain within it, not a tree was to be 
 feen. In July 1791 Captain Edwards coaftcd the north-wtll fide of 
 this ifland, and obferved the appearance of a tolerable landing-place in 
 that quarter. That part of the coaft was flat table land, without emi- 
 nence or indentation, and from the edge of the furface fmoke ifliied 
 along its whole extent. He called it Gardner's ifland. 
 
 An ifland called by the natives Lattai, in latitude IS*' 4/' 2(y\ 
 1740 4 8^ weft longitude, was difcovered by Maurelle the day after he 
 had pafl^ed the former. It confifts chiefly of a vaft conical mountain, 
 the fummit of which appeared to be burnt, but the fides were covered 
 with trees ; and it is furrounded with a lower border which is very 
 fertile, and affords frefti water. Many canoes came off, and the people 
 in them, among whom was the chief of the ifland, behaved with much 
 confidence and kindnefs, and fold cocoa-nuts and bananas to the Spa- 
 ,niards. Captain Edwards gave this place the name of Bickerton's 
 ifland. 
 
 Maurelle proceeded toward fbmc iflands fifteen leagues diftant, and 
 lying eaft-north-eaft from the preceding ; the appearance of which 
 promifed better anchorage, as well as more abundant rcfrefliments. 
 He was prevented by the w ind from reaching them till the 4th of 
 March, when, after pafling between fome fmaller elevated iflands on 
 the north-weft of the principal land, he anchored in a creek bordered .
 
 :kiv PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 with houfcs and plantations. In approaching this ftation, the flilp had 
 every day been furrounded by numerous canoes, laden with all kinds 
 of proA"ifions, in exchange for which the iflanders wanted to have tools, 
 but obtained only clothing, Maurelle having flrangely prohibited the 
 fale of iron. The natives vsere in general tall and robuft. The chief, 
 named Toobou, to whom they paid the moft profound refpe6l, was 
 advanced in age, and very corpulent. He treated Maurelle with the 
 fame profufc hofpitality that Cook had experienced at the more foxr- 
 thern iflands. Water was not, however, to be obtained fufficiently 
 nigh at hand, and that vvhich oozed into a pit dug by the Spaniards 
 proved too brackifh to be ufed. Maurelle therefore removed to a bay 
 two leagues from the former, and in doing fo lolt two anchors. Here 
 the fliip M^as perfed:ly fheltered, and good water was obtained clofe to 
 the fhore. The Spaniards were entertained with tlie ufual public di- 
 verfions, and being always on theif guard, the intercourfe on fliore 
 •was not interrupted by any contefl ; but the iflanders who came on 
 board flole every thing they could feize. They tore avsay the chain 
 of the rudder ; and after another had been fubftituted, one of the na- 
 tives was fliot dead in attempting to take that alfo. Maurelle failed 
 1 gth March, through a channel to the fouth-weft, which, as well as 
 that by which he entered, was found to be perfedlly commodious. He 
 places his anchorage in latitude 18° SC/, and he called it El Rtfiigio, 
 or the Refuse. 
 
 The largeft of thefe iflands is nearly equal in extent to Tongataboo, 
 and confiderably higher, although not mountainous. • It is highly 
 'fertile, and well cultivated, producing the fame fruits and roots as 
 <:lfewherc in thefe latitudes, and abounding more with the cloth-plant 
 than any of the Friendly Iflands. Maurelle named this group after 
 Don Martin dc Mayorga, then viceroy of Mexico ; and gives no in- 
 timation of the names ufed by the inhabitants. 
 
 Pt-roufc, who, in 1787, approached all the iflands 1 aft dcfcribcd, 
 iiut had no intercourfe with the natives, takes it for granted that 
 'they conftitute the country called by Cook Vavaoo, but pronounced
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixv 
 
 Vavou by the Friendly iflandcrs, and already fpolccn of as lying at 
 the diftancc of two days fail from Hapac. But this fpacc, according:; 
 to Captain Cook's calculation, muft exceed two hundred miles, which 
 is more than double the dillancc between Hapac and the iflands of 
 Mayorga. Captain Edwards alfo explored this clufter in July irOU 
 naming it Howe's iflands, and the anchorage Curtis's found. The 
 fliip was vifitcd by two pcrfcns, called Futtafaihe and Toobou. Cap- 
 tain Bligh, in the Providence, accompanied by Captain Portlock, in 
 the Aflillance, when returning with the bread-fruit from Otaheite, 
 laid to during the night, 3d Auguft 1/92, off thefc illands, and ob- 
 tained provifions, but did not land. Two fhips, which Maurelle under- 
 ftood to have been here prior to his voyage, might be thofe of Cook 
 and Clerke, which the natives had probably feen at Hapac. By what- 
 ever name thefe iflands ought to be diilinguiflied, they prefent a fa- 
 vov:rable and a confiderable objcdl for the attention of our miffiona- 
 ries. The longitude affigned to them by Captain Edwards is 173" 
 53' weft. 
 
 Neootabootaboo and Kootahe are feparated by a channel only 
 three miles broad, in which is a fmall ifland ; and are fituated in la- 
 titude 15° 55\ 173° 48' weft longitude. The former is the more ex- 
 tcnfivc, and is reckoned among the larger of the Fri'endly Iflands. It 
 is chiefly low, but has a confiderable hill in its centre. It is divided 
 into two unequal parts by a channel, w^hich, at the mouth, is three 
 lumdrcd yards wide. Kootahe is Axry lofty, of a conical form, be- 
 tween two and three miles in diameter, and lies north-eaft from the 
 former. Both are populoxis, fertile, and poflefl!ed of the fame animals 
 and vegetables as the iflands before defcribed. They were difcovered 
 by Schouten and Lemaire, 10th May lOlO. Their fliip anchored on 
 the north-weft fide of Kootahe, half a mile from the fhore, in fandy 
 ground, with twenty-five fathom ; but they lent a boat to the larger 
 ifland to fearch for a better ftation. The natives fwara around the 
 fliip, and bartered cocoa-nuts in abundance for nails and beads ; but 
 they endeavoured to feize the boat, and one of them u a^ fliot belorc 
 
 k
 
 txvi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 they defifted from the attempt. The chief of Neootabootaboo, who- 
 had the title of Latoo, came on board; and having invited the Dutch 
 to that ifland, they were proceeding thither, when a thoufand of the 
 natives fuddenly attacked the fliip from their canoes, but were repulfed 
 with much havoc by the cannon loaded with mufkct-balls. Schouten 
 departed on the 13th of the fame month. He gave the names of 
 Traitors' and Cocoa iflands to thele difcoveries, in confequencc of the 
 reception he met with. Captain Wallis fell in with them 13th Au- 
 guft 1 767, and called them Keppel's and Bofcavven's iflands. His 
 boat's crew examined Neootabootaboo, and found a place for anchor- 
 ing and landing, with frefh water, but inconveniently fituated. Cap- 
 tain Wallis exchanged fome nails for fowls, fruits, and one of their 
 clubs, and proceeded the next day to the weflward. The nails were 
 in Poulaho's pofleffion at Tongataboo, when Cook was there with 
 him. Peroufe faw Kootahe 20th December 1787, and having the 
 next day examined both the iflands, laid to on the following, in a 
 fandy bay upon the weft coaft of the larger divifion of Neootabootaboo. 
 The natives brought off the fineft cocoa-nuts he had ever feen, with 
 other vegetables, as well as fome fowls and a hog: they difcovered 
 no apprehenfion,. and traded very freely. They refembled the more 
 fbuthern iflanders in every thing, except that their looks indicated a 
 ferocity, like that which characflerizes their northern neighbours. 
 The French did not fliffer them to come on board, but punifhed the 
 moft trifling thefts with feverlty ; having been recently exafperated by 
 the mxirder of Captain de L'Angle and eleven, more perfons, at one 
 of the Navigators' iflands, which lie to the northward of thefe. A 
 rocky bank, two or three leagues north of Kootahe, was found in 
 ItJlO, with fourteen fathom water upon it. 
 
 An ifland was difcovered by Schouten and Lemairc the day after 
 they left the preceding, which they reckoned to be thirty IXitch 
 leagues more to the weflward. They judged it to be nearly of circular 
 form, and about two leagues from north to fouth ; but they exprcfs 
 fome vmccrtainty as to its extent. It is hilly, and covered with ver- 
 dure, abounding with cocoa-nut trees, and populous. A large village
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. kvii 
 
 laid clofe to the fliorc. Tlu'v called it Hope Ifland, from the profpcft 
 it afforded them of obtaining rcfrefliments. Of thefe they were nerer- 
 thclefs difappointcd, not being able to land for the furf, which every 
 where broke upon the coaft. Sending a boat to found, they found 
 from twenty to forty fathoms, two or three hundred yards from fhore, 
 with rocky bottom ; but there were no foundings a little further out. 
 The natives a<3:ed as at Kootahe, and feveral of them w^cre killed for 
 attempting to feize the boat. They brought off vegetables only. The 
 Dutch proceeded the fame day to the wertward. 
 
 Captain Edwards fell in Avith this inland 5th Augull 179I, when he 
 apparently meant to have vifited the former two, but was carried too 
 much to leeward. He places it in latitude 15° 53', 175^51' weft 
 longitude. In the account of his voyage, it is fpoken of as having 
 confiderable extent, and the houfes as being of much larger conftruc- 
 tion than at the other iflands of this archipelago. He named it Proby's 
 ifland, but underftood that the natives called it Onoo-afou. 
 
 This name, and the dlftance of this ifland from Hapae, accord with 
 the defcriptlon given to Cook, of the Vavou of the Friendly iflanders; 
 to w hied their term for an inhabited country, Wanoo, may have been 
 prefixed by the natives, as it is to the names of fcvcral iflands in this 
 ocean. Computing the extent of the ifland by it proportionate dlf- 
 tance from Kootahe, it muft be nine or ten Englifli miles in diameter, 
 according to Lemaire's ftatcment. Poulaho aflerted that it affords as 
 good anchorage as Tongataboo, and that it is larger, and has feveral 
 ftreams of frefh water. Vavou is in high eftlmation among the Friendly 
 Iflanders ; and was, in 1/77, the rcfidcnce of Latoo-llbooloo's mother 
 and fifter. A folemn mourning was alfo then celebrated at Tongata- 
 boo for a chief who had lately died at Vavou. 
 
 Two more iflands were difcovered by Schouten and Lemaire, the 
 fifth day after lea\ ing that laft defcrlbed. They defl:royed fome of the 
 natives at their firft interview, but were afterward liol'pltablv enter- 
 tained bv them, and procured everv kind of rcfrclhment in great 
 abundiuice. They were vifited by a pcifon bearing the title of Latoo*'
 
 Ixv-iii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 and by another flyled Areckee, who was therefore probably the foAC- 
 rcign of all the Friendly Iflands. He was treated by the other natives 
 with the utmofl; deference. They are rcprefentcd like thofe of the 
 more fouthern iflands in moft circumftances, except in being deftitute 
 of clothing, and the females being deformed, and pecnliarly immodeft. 
 The iflands are hilly, fertile, and populous. The extent of them is 
 not defcribed. The fliip anchored in a narrow roadflcad, on the fou- 
 thern fide of the principal ifland, two or three hundred yards from a 
 Itream of frefli water, in a depth of ten fathoms, with fandy bottom. 
 Clofe on the outfide of the fliip was a bank, dry at low water. They 
 place this anchorage in the latitude of 14° 55'' fouth. The iflands 
 were named Hoorn, after the Dutch port, where, the veflel had been 
 equipped ; and the road was called Concord, after the fliip's name. 
 
 If the Hope ifland of Schoutcn be Vavou, there feems little room 
 to doubt that Hoorn iflands are the country called Ha mo a by the 
 Friendly Iflanders, who defcribe it as being two days fail from Vavou., 
 to the northward of wefl:, and agreeing in other refpe^ls with Schou- 
 ten's Hoorn Iflands. They do not appear to have been vifited by any 
 ©ther navigator, except we may conceive them to be the two iflands 
 where Maurelle obtained refrefliments the 2lft and 22d of April 
 1781 ; which, therefore, he named Confolation Iflands. The figure 
 and afpcd: of thofe defcribed by him, and by Schouten and Lemaire, 
 perfedlly accord. Maurelle does not give the latitude in his narrative. 
 That upon his chart diflers from Schouten's by more than half a de- 
 gree ; but an error of that amount is not unlikely to have occurred in 
 Maurelle's reckoning. No other difcovery correfjionds with his, any 
 more than with Schouten's iflands. 
 
 Hamoa is rcprefentcd by the natives of Tongataboo as the largefl: 
 ifland of their archipelago ; and Poulaho, who had frequently refided 
 upon it, faid that it furniflied good water and abundant refrefliments, 
 and afl:orucd harbour for fliips. 
 
 The preceding account includes all the iflands hitherto difcovered 
 Tvhich have ufually been united under the fame government. There
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. h\x 
 
 are two more groups, containing countries of greater extent than any 
 yet delcribcd, with which the Friendly iflanders are known to liavc 
 communication. To thcfe, alio, our miffionaries may therefore be 
 able, through the Lord's blefling, to extend their labours from Ton- 
 gataboo. 
 
 The very confiderable duller, of which either the whole, or fomc 
 part, is called by the natives, FejE, lies within three days fail in a 
 canoe from that ifland. The more northern part of this numerous 
 group was difcovered by Tafman 6th February 1(5-4 3. Thefe iflands 
 and reefs are evidently the fame that were explored by the Duff, and 
 amidll which flie" met with the greatefh danger that attended her 
 voyage. They were named by Tafman Prince William's Iflcs, and 
 Heemlkirks Shoals. They reach northward to the latitude of 15^ 'dZ'. 
 Captain Bligh fell in with the eafternmoft of the Feje iflands, in 1 /S'* 
 weft longitude, the third day after his efcape from Toofoa in the 
 Bounty's launch ; and he paiTed through the midft of them in a north- 
 weftern courfe, which he could not have made in a fliip, there being 
 only four feet depth of water on one of the reefs which he crolfed. 
 In this direction, he found the group to extend four degrees vvcllward 
 from the fi^fl iflands ; and he law feveral that had from thirty to forty 
 leagues of coaft, and appeared fertile, being pleafmgly variegated with 
 hills and valleys. His defencelefs fituation obliged him to avoid 
 intereourfe with the inhabitants. On his return from Otahcite in the 
 Providence, 5th Augvift 1 7g2, he pafl^ed to the north of the firft iflands 
 he had difcovered in I789, and coafted, upon the fouth fide, fome of 
 thofe which had been difcovered by Tafman. After having crofled 
 his former track, he doubled the fouthcrnmoft ifland of the group, 
 in latitude 19° 15', 178" <'<?/? longitude, and proceeded, nth Auguft, 
 on his voyage, in a courfe to the northward of well. He landed no 
 where, and the iflanders in vain attempted to overtake the fliip with 
 their canoes, apparently v.ath hoftile dcfigns. 
 
 The moft wellern part of this group was difcovered by Captain 
 Barber, in the fnow Arthur, 26th April 1 794^ on his paflage from
 
 1-xK PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 Fort Jackfon to the north-weft coaft pf America. He faw fix of the 
 iflands, the largeft of which he places in latitude 17° 30', 175'' 15' 
 eaft longitude. He anchored in a bay on its weftern fide, and fome 
 natives who came off in a canoe were reludlant to come on board, and 
 feemed to be unaccuftomed to trade. The next day a number of canoes 
 attacked the fhip, and two of the crew were wounded by them with 
 arrov.'s. The favages attempted to board, but were repulfed with the 
 fhip's fwivels and fmall arms. The navigation on this, as on every 
 other fide of the group, was found to be intricate and dangerous. 
 
 It is uncertain whether thefe numerous and extenfive iilands are 
 •conne6ted together under a dlftind: government, or whether they are 
 independent of each other, or moftly fubjcdt to Tongataboo. It is 
 certain that at leaft fome of the principal iflands have been indepen- 
 dent of its government, and occafionally hoftile to it. They are alfo of 
 a diftind: race, fpeak a different language, and, befide fpears and clubs, 
 make ufe of bows and arrows in battle. In this they referable moft of 
 the iflanders who inhabit the larger countries to the weftward ; and 
 differ from all who have yet been difcovcred to the eaftward of this 
 ^roup. Many of the latter have bows and arrows, but they ufe them, 
 .as we do, only in fport : their miffile weapons in war being no other 
 than fpears and ftones. The intcrcourfe of Feje with Tongataboo does 
 not feem to have lafted many generations, but during the prefent cen- 
 tury it has been frequent. The Friendly iflanders regarded the people 
 of Feje as fuperior to themfelvcs, both in military prowefs, and in 
 mechanical ingenuity ; their weapons and clothing being wrought 
 in a more mallerly ftyle, and fome manufadlures, cfpecially that of 
 earthen veffels, being carried on at Feje, which arc not attempted 
 at Tongataboo- There alfo were dogs at Feje when there were 
 none at the Friendly Iflands, but they have been imported from 
 thence fince the latter group became known to the Englifh. The 
 ilature of the Fejeans is fuperior, their complexions are darker, and 
 their hair approaches to wo(>l. They, moreover, retain the praifhcc 
 .of eating the bodies of enemies whom they have killed, which is now
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxi 
 
 abhorred by all of tiic lighter race, except the inhabitants of New' 
 Zealand. 
 
 It is probable that the Fejeans are of the fame race that occupies 
 the moft extenfive iHands in this ocean. Their prevailing ferocity 
 renders the more weftern countries very dangerous of accefs; but it 
 may be hoped, that the fuperior civilization of Feje, and its intercourfe 
 with Tongataboo, to which it appears that at lead fomc part of this 
 group has lately been fubjcAed, may afford a favourable introduction 
 of our miffionaries among a nation of great extent, and in the utmoft 
 need of evangelical inftruftion. The only Europeans who arc known 
 to have landed at Feje, are Lieutenant Hay ward, and a man who at- 
 tended him thither, in a large canoe hired at Anamooka, for the pur- 
 pofe of fearching after Fletcher Chriftian. Their inquiry was fruitlcfs;, . 
 but feems to have been conduced without danger. 
 
 The other group which has intercoiirfe with the Friendly Iflands, 
 is that which was named by M. de Bougainville the Navigators' 
 Iflands. Thcfc are only ten in number, but fome of them are re- 
 markable for their extent, fertility, and population. They are fituated- 
 between 169° and 172° 30' weft longitude, and from latitude 13° 
 25', to an uncertain extent fouthward. They are all lofty, like the 
 Society Iflands, but are neither furroundcd with a low border, nor en- 
 dofed by reefs.' The eafternmoft iflands of the cluftcr feem to have 
 been firft difcovcred by Roggevvcin and Bauman in 1722. Another, 
 of fuperior magnitude, was added by Bougainville in 1/68; and the 
 two wefternmoft iflands, which are the moft confiderable, were difco- 
 vcred by Pcroufe in 1 787. Each of the latter is more than forty miles 
 in length. All thefe were vifited by Captain Edwards in 179I. Pe- 
 roufe was informed of three more to the fouthward, named Sheka, 
 Gflamo, and Ooera, which he could not fall in with. The native 
 names aflTigncd to the principal iflands by the two navigators, Peroulc 
 and Edwards, totally differ in every inftance. Pola and Oi*twHEi 
 are thofe which they refpe<R:ively give to the moft weftern iiland of 
 the group ; Oyolava and Oiiatooa to the next conliderablc ifland; .
 
 Ixxii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 Ma-66na and Ot-UTUela, to that which Bougainville difcovcrcd ; 
 Opoon and Toomanua, to the eafternmoil ifland. The name of 
 Tootooela, which is affigned by the people of Tongataboo to one of 
 the larger iflands known to them, agrees with the information received 
 by Captain Edwards^ It is notwithllanding difficult to conceive, how 
 Peroufe millook the name jof the very ifland, where the aflaffmation 
 of the French navigators, already mentioned, was perpetrated in De- 
 cember 178/. Some remains of their clothing were fecn there by 
 the Pandora's people in July 1791. At Otewhei the latter met with 
 a perfon related to Fenou, commander in chief of the Friendly Iflands. 
 He had lately had a finger cut off on account of the illnefs which if- 
 iiied in the death of that chief This circumftance demonftratcs that 
 feme intercourfe fubfifts between thcfc two groups. The inhabitants 
 of both have the fame language, and the fame general cuftoms, that 
 aris common to all the eaftern iflands of this ocean. The natives of 
 the Navigators' Iflands greatly exceed the Friendly iflandcrs in flature 
 and ftrength, and are marked by a ferocity of afped; and manners un- 
 known at Tongataboo. In fome .particular cuftoms they appear alfo 
 to differ confiderably. It is improbable that they fhould be fubjeft to 
 Tongataboo ; but the acquaintance they have with its inhabitants 
 may render this important group acccflible with fafety to our brethren, 
 in company with fomc of the Friendly Ifland chiefs, by whom they 
 are already highly cfteemcd. 
 
 Ohtttahoo, and other Iflands of the Group called the Marqttejas. 
 
 THIS group is known to extend from 8|° to 10|° of latitude, and 
 from 138J° to 140|° of weft longitude. The inhabited iflands, which 
 have been difcovered in it, arc eight in number. They rcfcmBle the 
 Navigators' Iflands in their afped; and their coafls. In mofl:, if not 
 in all of them, there are bays or coves which afTord harbour for fhip- 
 ping ; but acccfs to them is often made difficult by fuddcn fqualls
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxiii 
 
 of wind which break over the mountains and precipices. The natives 
 exceed, in general beauty, tliofc of the groups already defcribed ; 
 efpecially the females, who are not disfigured by punftures, although 
 the men are almoft entirely covered with thofe marks. The women 
 appear to be in greater and more general fubjc6lion at the Marquefas 
 than elfewhere. Both fexes are inferior in perfonal cleanlinefs to the 
 natives of Otaheite and Tongataboo, having lefs convenience for bath- 
 ing. They ufe lefs clothing ; and the chiefs are lefs diftinguifhed 
 from their fubje6ls, except by the profufion of ornaments with which 
 they are fomctimcs covered. The foil of thefe iflands, for the greater 
 part, is not fo fertile as in any of the preceding groups ; but the inha- 
 bitants are, probably in confequence of this deficiency, more a(5live 
 and vigorous than thofe of Otaheite. The bread-fruit attains here to 
 the higheft perfection ; but when it is out of feafon the want of it is 
 feverely felt, at leaft at Ohittahoo, where articles of food to be fubfti- 
 tuted for it are fcarce. The Marquefans refemble the Friendly iflanders 
 in paying a greater deference to age than the Otahciteans, and in being 
 exempt from the pradice of infant murders, and other evils produced 
 by the arreoe fociety. 
 
 Ohittahoo, which was felefted out of the group to be a mlf- 
 fionary flation bccaufe it was beft known to Europeans, is much 
 inferior in extent to feme of the neighbouring iflands, being only nine 
 miles long from north to fouth, and about feven leagues in circuit- 
 A narrow ridge of lofty hills runs through its whole length, and is 
 joined by other ridges, which gradually rife from the cliffs upon the 
 coafts. They are divided by deep, narrow, and fertile valleys, adorned 
 with trees, and watered by brooks and cafcades. On the wcflern fide 
 are feveral coves. That in which Europeans have ufually anchored, 
 is fituated under the higheft land in the country, in latitude Q*^ 55^ 3o", 
 1 30° 8' 4o" weft longitude. It bears fouth 15" eaft from the M'eft 
 end of a larger adjacent ifland, called Ohevahoa. The points that 
 lorm the harbour (of which that to the fouth ward is the higheft, arc 
 about a mile afundcr, and their diftance from the head of the harbour 
 
 1
 
 h%W PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 not much lels. The depth of the water is from thirty- foilr to twelve 
 fathoms, and the bottom clean fand. Two fandy coves within the 
 bay are feparated by a rocky point ; and each has a rivulet and habi- 
 tations in it. That on the northern beach bears the iame name with 
 the illand ; the other, which is nearly concealed among the trees, is 
 called Innamei. 
 
 Alvaro Mcndana de Neyra difcovered this ifland and the three which 
 lie neareft to it, in July 1595. He named them Las Marquesas dc 
 de Mendoca, in honour of Mendoca, Marquis of Canete, then viceroy 
 of Peru, who had difpatched Mendana from thence, with four fliips, 
 for the purpofe of occupying the iilands of Solomon, which had been 
 difcovered by the fame navigator twenty-eight years before. Being 
 very uncertain of the diftance of thofe iilands from Peru, he was pro- 
 ceeding in their latitude to fearch for them, when he difcovered the 
 fouthernmoft ifland of the Marquefas. On the 25th July he fent a 
 boat to examine Ohittahoo, which he called Santa Chriftina, and 
 having found, the harbour already defcribed, he named it Port Madre 
 de Dios. Manriquez, who commanded the boat, landed, and marched 
 v/ith twenty foldiers, by beat of dram, round the northern village ; 
 but the inhabitants- did not flir from their houfes till the party halted^ 
 and called to them ; when a^bout three hundred men and women 
 peaceably advanced. At the requeft of the Spaniards they brought 
 fevcral kinds of fruit, and fome water contained in cocoa-nut fhells. 
 The women, upon invitation, fat down among the foldiers ; but the 
 men were ordered to keep at a diftance, and to fetch more water in 
 fome jars which had been brought in the boat. They fecmed dif- 
 pofed to keep the jars; upon which Manriquez brutally fired amongft 
 them, and broke off their communication for that time. On the 
 28th, Mendana brought his fquadron to anchor in the harbour; and 
 mafs being performed on fhore, the natives filently attended to the 
 ceremony. After taking formal pofTclTion of the country in the namer' 
 of the King of Spain, he endeavoured to eftablifli a friendly intcr- 
 courfc with the people, and fowcd Indian corn in their prcfeiKc, 
 
 j(f
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ukv 
 
 When he returned on board, he left the command of tlic party yu 
 fliore to Manriquez, and a quarrel again foon took place ; one of the 
 foldicrs was wounded by a fpcar, and many of the natives were killed 
 by the fire-arms, with w hich they were purfued while retreating with 
 their w^omcn and children to the woods. From thence they vainly 
 attempted to annoy the invaders with lances and ftoncs, and after fome 
 days they made overtures of fubmiffion, and brought prefents of fruit 
 to the guards which had been placed at the principal avenues. A fa- 
 miliar intercourfe being renewed, fome of the iflanders and Spaniards 
 formed particular friendfliips ; and a man who became intimate with 
 Mendana's chaplain, went on board with him, difcorered great doci- 
 lity, and feemcd dillreffed when they departed. Having refitted one 
 of his velTcls, and erecStcd fome crofTes on the fliore, Mcndana failed 
 5th July; but terminated his voyage without accoinplifhing its objed:, 
 and died at an ifland which he difcovered 55" to the weftvvard of 
 Ohittahoo. 
 
 It does not appear that the Marquefas were again vifited by Euro- 
 peans till 1/74, w'hen Captain Cook went in fearch of thefc iflands, 
 in order to afcertain their longitude. After meeting with fome danger, 
 in attempting to turn into the harbour of Madre de Dios, he anchored 
 there Oth April. Several canoes had followed tlie fhip as fhe palTed 
 the fmall harbours on the fame coaft to the northward, and others 
 came off from fliore as fbon as flie was anchored. A heap of Ttoncs 
 was provided in each canoe ; but the iflanders finding their vifitors 
 peaceable, bartered with them in an amicable manner. Tliis intcr- 
 courfe was renewed more abundantly the following day, but they be- 
 trayed the fame propenfity to theft which every where prevails in the 
 Pacific Ocean ; and one of them having feized and got off" with an 
 iron ftanchion, w^as haftily fliot through the head by an officer on 
 board the Rcfolution. Hetc-hete, who was then in the fliip, flied 
 tears at feeing this adl of barbarity ; and Captain Cook took much 
 pains to reftore the familiarity which had been interrupted by it. 
 The iflanders aflTembled on fliore, armed with fpears and clubs, and 
 
 12
 
 Ixxvi PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 drew up under fome rocks on the north fide of the harbour. Cook 
 went to meet them with a party under arms ; and Hete-hete havuig 
 explained to them the wifhes of the EngUfli, the natives appeared fa- 
 tisfied, and condu(5led them to a brook, where water was obtained for 
 the fliip. A brifk trade for vegetables was carried on, and fome hogs 
 were purchafed. The prefence of Cook was, however, found necef- 
 fary to preferve the confidence of the natives, who afted precifely as 
 if the condu<El of the Spaniards, almoft two centuries before, had been 
 frefh in their remembrance. The women had been removed from 
 this harbour, but feveral were met with at one to the fouthward of 
 it, who difcovered no relu<5lance to the licentious familiarities of the 
 failors. Hete-hete was foon able to converfe fluently with the natives, 
 whofe dialed differs from that of Otaheite chiefly in not admitting 
 the found of r, and in having, like the Friendly iflanders, the hard con- 
 fonants unknown at the other group. They paid great attention to 
 _the information which he gave them of cuftoms in which his country- 
 men differed from them, and efpecially of the mode of producing fire 
 by the fridlion of dry wood. 
 
 A chief, named Honoo, and diflinguiflicd by the title of Heka-ae, 
 came with many attendants to the landing-place, and exchanged prc- 
 fents with Captain Cook; but could not be perfuaded to accompany 
 him on board. He w^as decorated with a great variety of orna- 
 ments, and wore a cloak, while the reft of the men had only the 
 maro round their loins. His looks and manner indicated much 
 good-nature and intelligence. The fupplies of provifions feemed to 
 increafe in confcqucnce of his vifit, and no farther conteft occurred ; 
 fome thefts, which were committed, being fuffered by Captain Cook 
 to pafs unnoticed, as his ftay was defigned to be fliort. He failed on 
 the nth April. 
 
 A French navigator, named Le Marchand, vifitcd the Marquefas 
 about the year l/Sy. Several veflels, chiefly American, engaged in 
 the fur trade, have alfo fmce touched here for provifions ; and the 
 commander of one of them, named Roberts, built a fmall AxfTcl at
 
 PKELIMINAUY DISCOURSE. Ixxvii 
 
 Port Madre dc Dios, with which he proceeded to the north-weft 
 coaft of America. It is reported that the people of Ohittahoo had 
 pcrfevcred in the prudent meafurc of keeping their women at a dif- 
 tancc from European vifitors ; and that, at this fcafon, a conteft was 
 excited on the account, in which the rcfpcdable chief, Honoo, was 
 killed by his brutal guefts. This circumftancc, which there is but too 
 much reafon to believe, may account for the very different condud: 
 obfcrvcd relative to the females of Ohittahoo, in fubfequcnt vifits at 
 this place. 
 
 The Dasdalus ftorefliip touched at this ifland on her way from 
 England to join Captain Vancouver, and anchored in Port Madre dc 
 Dios, 22d March 17Q2, in twenty-four fathom. Not being fuffi- 
 ciently flieltered. from the land wind, her cable parted early the next, 
 morning ; and while driving out of the bay, the fhip was found to 
 be on fire. In extinguifliing it, many pieces of rotten bedding were 
 thrown overboard, and the natives crowded round the Ihip to pick 
 them up. When the Daedalus regained her ftation, and had been 
 anchored clofer in fliore, it was obferved that the buoy of the anchor 
 from which they had been driven, had been purloined ; but a piece of 
 wood having been left by the natives in its ftead, tied to the buoy- 
 rope, directed them to recover the anchor. Lieutenant Hergefl:, who 
 failed as agent in the Daedalus, went in the afternoon to the place for 
 obtaining frefli water, which was at the diflance of a mile from the 
 fliip ; and finding the furf violent, he landed with only four men, in 
 order to fill two water cafks. The buckets ufed for this purpofe were 
 foon ftolen by the iflanders, who crowded round, without any perfon 
 of authority to reftrain them. They even fnatched Mr. Hergeft"s 
 fowling-piece out of his hand ; and there being but one mufket left 
 among the party, it was judged better to make good their retreat with 
 this, than to employ it vindicflively. On retiring to the Icng-boat, 
 they found that fome of the natives had, by diving, cut away the grap- 
 nel, with which it had been fecured. When they regained the boat, 
 they rowed clofe to the fhore, and fired a volley of mufkctoons and
 
 Ixxviii PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 i'mali arms over the heads of the cro"vs d. All hT\mediatcly fled to the 
 woods, except one man, who flood his ground, and threw ftones at 
 the boat's crew. This bravado was fuffered to pafs unpunillied, but 
 four cannon fliot were fired from the fiiip over the fouthern village, 
 which was not above a quarter of a mile dillant. This happily pro- 
 duced no worfc effe6l than to terrify the natives, who fled in every 
 direction to the mountains ; and about fun-fct one of them fvvam off 
 with a green bongh wrapped in white cloth, which he threw into the 
 fliip. Having thus difcharged his embafly of peace, he immediately 
 returned on fliore. 
 
 The next day, Mr. Hergcft repairing to the watering-place with an 
 armed party, was cheerfully aflifled by the iflanders to fill and roll the 
 cailLS, M'ith which they alfb fwam to the boats, and were fuitablv re- 
 warded for their labour. They could not ftill be reftraincd from pil- 
 fering on board, and a theodolite belonging to Mr. Gooch, an aflro- 
 nomer, was carried off, but feafonably recovered. 
 
 A chief named Too-ou, who had vifited the fliip when flie firft an- 
 chored, returned on the 24th with a prcfent of provifions ; and two 
 others, fome days afterward, brought the grapnel which had been cut 
 from the boat. They promifed alfo to procure the fowling-piece, but 
 came on board when the fhip was ready to fail, without fulfilling their 
 engagement. Mr. Hergefl having well rewarded thena for their for- 
 mer trouble, and being confident that they could have recovered his 
 gun, informed one of them that he fhould carry him away if it was 
 not fpecdily rcflored ; and accordingly placed a ccntincl over him in 
 the cabin. The refl of the natives fled in alarm ; but the fowling- 
 piece was obtained in half an hour. The prifoner \\ as then liberated, 
 greatly to his joy ; and prefcnts were made to him, and to another 
 principal pcrfon who had brought the gun on board. 
 
 71ic crowd of iflanders having incommoded the fliip's company in 
 their bufniefs, the colours were hoifted, to fignify that they m\ifl: not 
 come on board. The men fubmittcd to this prohibition ; but many 
 of the women pcrfiflcd in fvvimming to the Ihip, till muiTccts were
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxix 
 
 repeatedly fired over their heads, to deter them. Thefts were frequent 
 and darhig, and the chiefs fecmed to want cither authority or inclina' 
 tion to reprcfi them. One man, who had made off from the Ihip 
 with a bucket, was fhot unintentionally through the calf of his leg, 
 but no other damage was occafioiied. ^ 
 
 A good fupply of vegetables was obtained ; but few hogs could be 
 purchafed, and thofc at a rate unufually dear in the South- Sea 
 iflands. The harbour was accurately furvcyed before the Ihip failed, 
 but the fkctch given by Captain Cook was found to be fufficicntly 
 correal. 
 
 The Prince William Henry left Otaheite on the 20th March, the 
 fame day that the Dasdalus failed from Ohittahoo. She made a diredl 
 north-call: paflagc to this ifland, which is therefore demonftrated to be 
 pracl;icable, although not known to have been performed by any other 
 veffel. Her ftay was very tranfient, and her voyage from Britain to 
 the Sandwich iflands was fo rapid as to be accomplifhed in four 
 months. 
 
 Captain Brown, in the Butterworth, accompanied by two fmaller 
 private veffels, anchored in Port Mad re de Dies ift June 1 702, and 
 ftaid only two days, to take in frefh v>'ater. 
 
 The degree in which the manners of the people at Ohittahoo had 
 been corrupted, fiibfequent to Cook's voyage, was not known when • 
 the Duff left England ; and the difappointmcnt, occafioncd by this 
 change, appears to have produced the only inllance that occurred 
 among our miffionaries, of llirinking from the work in which they 
 were engaged. If the folitarj^ condition of a verj- promifmg young- 
 man, who had the fortitude to remain fmgly on his poft, fliould tend 
 to delay the progrefs of the gofpel at the Marquefas, it is hoped that 
 this deficiency will foon be amply fupplied. Obflacles, that are to be 
 apprehended from long-eftabliflied cufloms in the other groups, arc 
 here apparently not liable to oppofc the truth ; and we truil that a 
 foundation has already been kid, on which others may build with great 
 advantage.
 
 Ixxx PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 To the northward of this ifland, and feparated by a channel hardly- 
 above a league in breadth, is Ohevahoa, which extends fix leagues 
 north -eaft ward, and has a circuit of fifteen or fixteen leagues. It 
 is more fteep and craggy, efpecially toward the eaftern point, than 
 Ohittahoo; but its deep valleys, and the fides of the hills, are, like 
 thofe of the former ifland, clothed with trees and verdure. Mcndana, 
 who difcovered it on the Lord's day, named it on that account La 
 Dominica. He failed along the fouthern coaft, as Cook did after- 
 ward, without difcovering any harbour. This deficiency has pre- 
 vented any farther knowledge of the interior country. It appeared in 
 a much more advantageous light to the former navigator than it did 
 to the latter. The natives have always attended at Port Madre de 
 Dios, when European veflels have lain there ; and they refemble the 
 Inhabitants of that place, with whom they maintain friendly inter- 
 courfe. 
 
 Onateya, which was named San Pedro by Mendana, lies about five 
 leagues eaftward of Ohittahoo, and as much to the fouth of Ohevahoa. 
 it is about three leagues in circuit, moderately high, and pretty level ; 
 with extenfive woods, and pleafant plains. 
 
 The moft fouthern ifland of the group, ten leagues difl:ant from 
 Onatcya, was the firft that Mendana difcovered ; and he named it La 
 Magdclana, in allufion to the Romifli feflrival on which he fell in 
 with it, July 21, 1595. He coafted the fouthern fliore the following 
 day, and four hvmdrcd of the natives came off, fome in canoes, fomc 
 floating and fwimming, to the fliips. They offered cocoa-nuts, and 
 other fruits, to the Spaniards, and invited them to land. Forty of 
 the iflanders, with little perfuafion, went on board Mendana's vcffcl, 
 and were prefentcd with clothing ; but they attempted to fteal almofl: 
 every thing they faw, which foon produced a conteft. One of the 
 Spaniards was wounded by them with a ftone, and they fuffered fe- 
 verely from the fire-arms. The fquadron continuing under fail, they 
 fcnt after it a canoe, with Symbols of peace and friendfliip. This 
 ifland was judged to be fix leagues in circuit, and appeared populous
 
 PRELIMINARY DISC<?URSE. Iraxi 
 
 and fertile. Captain Cook, who faw if after leaving Ohittahoo, 
 reckoned it to be nearly in latitude 10" 25', 138'' 50' weft longitude. 
 Captain Brown, in the Buttcrworth, 27th May 1 7y2, difcovercd a 
 rock refembling a fhip, north -caft ward from' the fouth-eaft point of 
 this ifland, at the diftancc of five leagues. He did not anchor, but 
 laid to off the fouthern coaft till the 31 ft, and procured cocoa-nuts, 
 plantains, and bread-fruit, for nails, from the canoes which came 
 alongfidc, and by his boats from the inhabitants on fhorc. One of his 
 people fpent a night upon the ifland, and fwam off the next mornings 
 The natives are undcrftood to call this ifland Ohittatoa. 
 
 The only addition to the difcoveries of Mcndana, which was made 
 by Captain Cook's vifit to the Marquefas, is an ifland called by the 
 inhabitants Tebooa, and by Cook, Hood's ifland. It is fltuated in- 
 the latitude of Q^ 20', and at the diftancer of five leagues from the 
 eafternmoft point of Ohevahoa, nearly in the diredlion of N. N. W. 
 It has a bluff appearance, and is of inferior extent to moft others of 
 the group. 
 
 The fliips, which, at a later period, have proceeded to the north- 
 ward, after taking refrefliments at Ohittahoo, have made much more 
 important difcoveries in this cluftcr. It is faid that Captain Le 
 Marchand, m 1/89, was the firft who faw feveral iflands at no great 
 diftance to the north-weft of thofe which had fo long before, been 
 difcovercd. An American named Ingraham next obfer^ed them, and 
 fuppofed them to have been till then unknown, but did not land upon 
 them. The only information refpefting thefe iflands, that has hi- 
 therto been publiflacd, was obtained during the voyage of the Daedalus 
 ftorefliip, in which they were particularly explored. The pofi.tions of 
 the newly-difcovered iflands having been very incorredly laid down 
 by our countrymen who preceded Captain Wilfon, v,^c refer to his ac- 
 count and chart for their fituations, forms, and extent ; limiting our 
 prcfent notice to the circumftances which appear m the vifits tliat 
 were previoufly made to thefe iflands. 
 
 The fouthsrnmofl of the new Marquefas, Rooapoa, was called 
 
 nx
 
 kxxii PRELltllNARY DISCOURSE. 
 
 Trevennen's ifland by Lieutenant Hergeft, who exanrmed it 3lfl: 
 March 1702. In its centre are two rocky eminences of vait height, 
 and of lingular figure, with feveral iinaller peaks adjacent. Near the 
 fouth-callern point of the coaft is a rock refembhng a church with a 
 fpire. Several fmall bays are formed in the Ibuthern fide, the beft of 
 which is terminated by the fouth-wdlern point of the ifland; It was 
 named Friendly bay, from the condu6l of the inhabitants, of whom 
 more than a himdred peaceably furrounded the fliip with their canoes, 
 and bartered fruits for beads and other trifles. They ieemed to be 
 very numerous on fhorc, and the eaftcrn and fouthern fides of the 
 ifland to be very fertile. The natives exaftly refembled in appearance 
 thofe of the preceding ifles. 
 
 Due north from thence, and eight leagues diflant, is Nooaiieva, 
 called by Mr. Hergeft, Sir Henry Martin's illand, which is the moll 
 confiderable of the whole group, both for extent and fertility. The 
 fouth-eaflern cape, which he named Point Martin, forms, with the 
 coall: to the wcftward of it, a deep baj', well flickered, and bordered 
 by fandy beaches. At the head of the bay was obfcrved, either a 
 deep cove, or the mouth of a confiderable ftream. Two leagues far- 
 ther weftward is a fine harbour, with a fandy bottom, flioaling from 
 twenty- four fathoms to feven, within a quarter of a mile of the fhorc. 
 A ftream of excellent water runs into it, and it is well fheltered from 
 all winds. A beautiful plain extends for a mile and a half from the 
 beach. The country is populous, and well cultivated. The people 
 appeared to be lighter than thofe of Ohittahoo, and varied confiderably 
 from them in other rcfpe<Ss. More than one thouiand five hundred 
 were aflemblcd on the fhores of this harbour, which was named Port 
 Anna Maria. They received fome people who landed from the Dae- 
 dalus very hofpitably, and fcnt of all kinds of provifions to the fhip. 
 The wcftern fide of the ifland was lefs populous. 
 
 Captain Brown, In the Butter worth, landed at Nooaheva 3d June 
 17Q2, about two months after the Daedalus had been there ; and ex- 
 amined the north- wcftern part of the ifland, upon which fide likewise
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxxiii 
 
 very good harbours were found. The natives alfo behaved friendly 
 and refpcdfuUy, but being Grangers to white people, they were carnclt 
 to fee whether their flvin was of the fame colour under their clothing 
 as in their faces. Son.ie peculiar ceremonies feem to prevail here : a 
 woman, who, at the requeft of one of the Englifh, brought him fomc 
 frefli water to drink, would not deliver it to him till flic had pro- 
 nounced a long oration. 
 
 Early in February ] 70-3, the Daedalus re-\ifited this ifland on her 
 way from the north-weft coaft of America to New South Wales, and 
 anchored in Port Anna Maria. A friendly intercourfe was renewed, 
 but it was fuddenly broken off by a quarrel between one of the failors 
 and an iflandcr who had come on board. The latter ha^"ing ftruck the 
 Englifhman, was fhot by him after having leaped overboard. Upon- 
 this, a great number of war canoes were affembled, and the fhip was 
 attacked with ftones. Lieutenant Hanfon, who had fuccecded Mr. 
 Hcrgcfl in the Dccdalus, was obliged to quit the harbour, after re- 
 maining there two nights, and proceeded to obtain needful refrefli- 
 mcnts at Otaheite. 
 
 Eaflward from Nooahcva, at the diftance of fix or feven leagues^ 
 is RooAii5oGA, which was called by Lieutenant Hergeft Riou's 
 ifland. It is high and craggy, efpecially at the wefl end, but appears 
 more fertile than the fouthern iflands of the group. At this end is a 
 Ihelf of rocks, extending about a quarter of a mile from the fliore, 
 which was named after Captain New of the Daedalus. This part of 
 the ifland is deftitute of any harbour for fliipping, but on the fouthern 
 coaft there arc appearances of convenient anchorage in two bays. 
 Above one hundred natives aflcmbled in canoes round the Dasdalus 
 upon her firfl approach to the coaft, and bartered their provilians in a 
 very friendly manner. 
 
 It is probable that this grovip extends farther, both to the north- 
 weft and fouth-caft, than has yet been explored. Four uninhabited 
 iflands are all that have been difcovered belidc thofe already deicribcd. 
 Of thcfe, two, which are very fmall, are fituatcd wcfl by north froxa 
 
 m 2
 
 Ixxxi^Y PRELirvIINARY DISCOURSE; 
 
 Nooaheva, ten or twelve leagues diftant, the other two farther off to.. 
 the north-weft, in 7° 53'' fouth latitude. The largcft of thefe latter 
 is eight miles long and two broad. Upon its north-weftern fide is a 
 bay, affording good anchorage, frefh water, and cocoa-nuts. That fide 
 ©f the ifland has in general a fertile appearance, but the eaftern coafh 
 is barren. The fmaller ifland lies near the other toward the north- 
 eaft," and fome rocky iflets ate between them. Both the iflands are 
 high, and, though not inhabited, are occafionally vifited. They were 
 called Roberts's ifles, and -the two fmall ones before mentioned were 
 named after Lieutenant Hergcjl. 
 
 Mcndana underftood from the natives of Ohittahoo, that they 
 fometimes vifited, in a hoftlle m.anner, a country toward the fouth, 
 tlie inhabitants of which were black, and ufcd bows and arrows in 
 battle. From Captain Wilfon's particular inquiry on this fubjedl, it 
 appears, that if they had at that time any knowledge of fuch a people, 
 it has fince been wholly loft. It is more probable that the Spaniards 
 mifapprchended what was faid ; as that nation of the South-Sea 
 iflanders which correfponds to this dcfcription, is not known to extend 
 farther eaftward than Fcje, which is two thoufand four hundred miles 
 from the Marquefas.. 
 
 THE account that has been given of the numerous iflands con- 
 iiefted with thofe already occupied as miffionary ftatlons, fuflices to 
 illuftratc the extent to which, under the blefl[ing of our Lord, the 
 gofpcl may probably be dtffufed, from the three central places to which 
 it has been introduced. Were it poffible here to infert fimilar accounts 
 of all the countries which are fituated between thefe groups and the 
 coafts of Afia and New Soutli Wales, the apparent importance of our 
 efforts would be enhanced beyond what can be conceived from the 
 fpecimcn that is now furniilied. It muft not, however, be omitted, 
 that people of the fame race with the natives of the groups we ha's'c
 
 PRELIM INAPxY DISCOUKSEi Kxxv 
 
 dclcribcd, arc dirpcrfcd over tlic Ladronc and CaroUm illandi, whicli 
 lie" north of the equator, and extend from the 130th to the 175th de- 
 gree of eall longitude ; and they have reached from the latter group, 
 f>r from fomc intermediate places not yet difcovCred, to the Sand-\vich 
 iflands, which arc fituatcd between l-.5.'i^ and ] On" weft longitude, 
 and 19° and 22" north latitude. Crofling the equator, probably from 
 the more eaftern of the Caroline iflands, they have fpread over the 
 cluftcrs of which wc have given an accoimt, and from the Friendly 
 iflands have reached the large country of Ncuo Zealand, between 3 1*' 
 and 4 8° fouth latitude, and lOO'^ and 180° caft longitiade ; while from 
 Otahcite, or fome of the iflands fouth-eaft of it, they have made a 
 furprifuig ftretch to the folitary fpot called Eajfcr IJlaUd, in 27° fouth 
 latitude, and 1 10° weft longitude. The language and cuffcoms of this 
 widely fcattered nation have been traced to the coafts of the great 
 Afiatic iflands, Luzon and Borneo, and from thence to the peninfula 
 of Malacca, the Aurea Chcrfonefus, beyond which the geographical 
 knowledge of the ancients can hardly be faid to have extended. The 
 aflonifliing migrations of this race feem to ha^-e originated, like thofc 
 of the northern Europeans, from defigns of conqueft. Thefc they 
 carried into cfFedl on the coafts of the grand Afiatic archipelago, 
 driving the black natives of thofe very extenfivc iflands to the interior 
 mountains which they (till occupy as a diftind; and independent people. 
 But the migrations of the fairer race from the Ph'dippine iflands to the 
 Carolines, and farther caftward, have almoft to a certainty been occa- 
 floned by flrefs of weather, -whicli drove their canoes from ifland to 
 ifland, and from one group to another, that had not before been 
 peopled. Frequent incidents of this nature have been afccrtained, 
 and fome of them ha\"c been fpecified in our account of the iflands 
 connedted with Otahcite. The population of iflands fo widely fcat- 
 tered, cannot, for tlie greater part, be otherwife explained, cither upon 
 the ground of cfl:abliflied fa6l, or upon that of probable conjcdurc. 
 
 The original inhabitants of the great Afiatic iflands feem, likewife,' 
 before they were driven back from their coafts, to have made very
 
 kxxv'i PRELIMINArvY DISCOURSE. 
 
 confiderable emitrratlons, althouah not to dlflances To remote as thofe 
 to which their fupplanters have been difperfcd. The darker race has 
 fpread over tlie vafl countries of Nnv Holland and Nnv Guinea, with 
 the adjacent iflands of Nc'iv Britahi, Neiv Ireland, and houijiade, as 
 well as thofe oi Solomon, Santa Cruz*, Ne^v Caledonia, the chief part 
 ■ of the Neiv Hebrides, and the grovip called Feje. Like the natives of 
 Africa, whom in perfon they generally refemble, they are divided into 
 numerous tribes, and arc diftinguiflied by various languages ; yet 
 there is a ftriking famenefs in the cufloms even of thofe mofl re- 
 motely fcparated ; and they all dilFer eflcntially from the nation that 
 occupies the numerous fmallcr illands of this ocean. The former arc 
 ufually more favage, and of inferior llature ; but fome of their tribes 
 may, in thefe refpeifts, be compared, or even preferred, to the leaft 
 civilized colonies of their rivals. A New Zealauder can boaft little or 
 no advantage over his neighbour of New Caledonia ; and a Sandwich 
 iflander muft apparently yield the palm to an inhabitant of Feje. The 
 luperior hofpitality of the Otaheiteans, the Friendly iflanders, and the 
 Marquefans, invited our endeavours to promote their befl intercfts ; 
 and our election of that nation, and of thofe groups, has, tlirough the 
 bleffing of God, been juftificd by the trial which we have been enabled 
 to make. 
 
 All the iflands of this ocean prcfented frefli ground for miffionary 
 labour, excepting the Philippines, the Ladrones, and a few of the 
 Carolines, to which the Spaniards had gained prior accefs ; Japan. 
 once filled with converts to popery, but now without the fliadow of 
 chriftianity ; and the northern Kurik iflands, which are ftatedly vifited 
 by a Ruffian clergyman from Kamtfchatka. That pcninfula contains 
 the only glimmering ray of chriftianity that enlightens the AJiaiic 
 conjl of the Pacific Ocean, with the fole exception of the Roman Ca- 
 
 * The groups named by Mcnilana the Ifles of Solomor) and Santa Cruz,, are the fame that, in 
 page 293, of the frllowing narrative, are called Egmont Ifland, &c. and New Georgia ; 
 thofe nanios having been given to them by Captain Carteret and Lieutenant Shottland, whc 
 imagined ihcy were new ^ifooverics.
 
 PRELIMINARY DISCOURSE. Ixxxvli 
 
 tholics fccrctcd in the Chliicrc empire. The coaft of North America, 
 from Bchring's llraits to California, is involved in more than Egyptian 
 darknefs. Upon the lall-mentioncd penlnfula Spiiin has feveral mif- 
 fionary ftations, where benevolent and laborious efforts are made, at 
 leaft to civilize the mifcrablc inhabitants. From thence to the ifland 
 of Chiloc, in SoutJi America, it is to be feared that the Spanifh con- 
 quefts have led the natives rather to detcfc the name of chriftianity 
 than to comprehend its nature. Croffing this immenfe ocean to AVw.' 
 South Wales, at a dillancc of 135 degrees of longitude, we find the 
 gofpcl preached with purity and zeal to a herd of our own countiy- 
 men, wliofe vices reduce them below the mofi: abje6l clafs of the 
 heathen world around. May the dodlrine of the crofs triumph there 
 over the unparalleled obltacles it has to furmount; and may it advance 
 from fhorc to Ihore, till it covers the hemlfphere that is wafhcd by 
 the Pacific Ocean ! Let him who reads fay, " Amen, Lord Jefus ! 
 " Thy kingdom 'come ! Thy will be done in earth, as it is in 
 " heaven !" 
 
 P. S. On the general chart that defcribes Captain Wilfon's track, thofe countries of the 
 Pacific Ocean, which lie within, or fouthward of the tropics, are comprehended under the Ge- 
 neral name of Axstra.ua, after the example of foreign geographers. As they appear to be 
 divided between two diftlnft races of inhabitants, one of which almod wholly poflefles the 
 more extenfive countries fituateJ in the fouth-weftern part of the ocean, thefe are diftinguiflied 
 from the reft by the title of the Gienter Aullralia : the numerous I'mall ii^ajids inhabited by the 
 fairer race being included under that oi Leffer Auftralia. To the whole group, of which a part 
 was dlfcovered by Cook, and called by him the Friendly Ides, the title of Uniled Archipelago is 
 affigned upon the chart. The propriety of thefe innovations is fubmittcd to the judgment of 
 fuch among our readers as are accuftomed to geographical refeaFches.
 
 LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 TO 
 
 CAPTAIN WILSON, 
 
 FROM 
 
 THE DIRECTORS. 
 
 ^^ Aug. 5, 179O. 
 
 THE conftant proted:ion with which it has pleafed the Divine 
 Being to favour the concerns of the Miffionary Society, renders 
 It incumbent on us, before we enter on the immediate fubjedt of our 
 addrefs to you, to make a humble and undiffembled acknowledgment 
 of the gratitude which is due to Him, and to recognifc with thank- 
 fulnefs the frequent, and manifeft interpofitions of his hand in favour 
 of this inftitution. 
 
 Among many other occurrences which have appeared to us of a 
 nature peculiarly providential, and which we have confidered as the 
 proofs of the condefcending care with which it has pleafed the great 
 Head of the church to regard this undertaking, there has been none 
 that excited more thankfulnefs to his name, or occafioned more uni- 
 vcrfal fatisfadlion among ourfelves, than the circumflance of your 
 having been inclined to coufecrate yourfclf to the fervice ot God on this 
 intcrefting occafion. We trufl that the fame Being, from whom the 
 difpofition has proceeded, will impart the grace which is requifite to 
 accomplifh the arduous fervice, and infpire the wifdom which ii; 
 needful for the execution of its important duties. 
 
 Conneftcd with us in the diredlion of the affairs of the Society, 
 you are fully apprifed of the nature and dcfign of the expedition you 
 hase undertaken to condu6l. 
 
 n
 
 xc INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON, 
 
 You arc aware that it is not only in its nature fingular, and almoft 
 without a precedent, but that it is alfo one of the mofl honourable 
 and moft important fervices which can be confided to a human being. 
 The attention of the Chriftian world is very generally excited to the 
 objecT:, and devout interceffions are continually afcending like incenfc 
 to heaven for its fuccefs. Should it be favoured with the bleffing of 
 God, it may be the direft means of imparting divine light and eternal 
 life to great multitudes of immortal beings, and may form an asra of 
 diflinguifhed importance in the hiftory of human redemption. In this 
 view of the interefting nature of the bufinefs we are engaged in, it is 
 with peculiar fatisfa<flion and fmcere affection, that we, the Directors 
 of the inflitution, not only inveft you with the command of the fliip, 
 and with full and complete authority for the management of its con- 
 cerns in relation to the voyage ; but alfb commit to your care and 
 fuperintendence, during the fame period, the more important charge 
 of the miffion itfelf, and efpecially of thofe faithful brethren who ac- 
 company you therein. Dear to our Saviour, in whofe name they go 
 forth, thefe apoftolic men will have a ftrong intereft in your affeftions 
 alfo. Having forfaken their friends and their country for the love of 
 Chrift, and with the defire of fpreading the honours of his name 
 among the heathen, they wall feek in your kind attention an equiva- 
 lent for the endearing connexions they have rclinquiflied ; and you 
 will be defirous of extending towards them the wife fuperintendence 
 of a parent, and the affectionate fympathy of a brother. You will 
 eheer the fpirit that is liable to droop under the prcffure of its anxieties, 
 or adminifter the word of admonition to the difciple that is in danger 
 of erring. You will be among them the centre of union, to reconcile 
 their divifmns, and confirm their love : the univerfal friend, in whofc 
 bofom they Avill depofit their diverfificd cares. 
 
 As it is needful that you fhould be furniflicd with inftrudlions, 
 both with rcfpe&. to the voyage itfelf, and alfo with relation to the 
 eftabllfhment of the mifl!ion, it is our duty to dcfirc, that after having 
 received your cargo on board, an invoice \thereof you will be furniflicd
 
 INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xci 
 
 with, and alio the miffionarics who are to ac.-ompaiiy you, wliofe 
 names and occupations you wi'l have an account of, you will plcafe to 
 proceed with all pofTible difpatch to Portfmouth, in order to join the 
 Eaft India convoy nou- lying there, to which you are to attach your- 
 felf, and to ufe every exertion in your power to keep company with 
 It, as far as its courfe and yours are dcfigned to coincide. 
 
 In cafe the convoy Iliould ftop at Teneriffe, you will procure four 
 pipes of the beft wine in hogflicads, for which you will apply to the 
 houfe of Meff. Paiiley and Little, and reimburfc them for the amount 
 by your draft on the treafurer to the inftitution. You will endeavour 
 to procure from thence two or three bunches of dried grapes of the bcfl 
 kind, in order that the feeds may be planted when you arrive at the 
 place of your deltination ; alfo a few pecks, or even quarts, of the befl 
 feed wheat, togetlier with the feeds of fuch tropical fruits as you may 
 think it would be advantageous to take with you. You w^lll alfo en- 
 deavour to procure one ram flicep and two ewes, to be preferved for 
 the purpofe of breeding; alfo a male and female afs, for the fame 
 purpofe. You will alfo at this place probably have an opportunity of 
 giving your flaip's company and the paflengers feveral^ meals of frcfii 
 meat and vegetables; which, as it will promote their health and com.- 
 tort, we are well perfuaded will not efcape your attention. On taking 
 your departure from Teneriffe, we wifh you to confider the port of 
 Rio de Janeiro on the coaft of Brazil as your next objecl. At that 
 place you will be able to lay in a ftock of fugar very cheap, for the 
 vife of the fliip's company and mifllonaries ®n the <voyage, as well as 
 for the latter after they axe put on flioie ; as alfo tobacco, chocolatCj 
 cochineal-plant, and many other vegetable produdions ufcful for con- 
 fumptlon and cultivation at the fettlement. Here you will alio em- 
 brace the opportunity to procure a fupply of frefh meat, and other dc- 
 fu-able articles, for the refrcflimcnt of the fliip's company, at a rca- 
 fonable rate. , 
 
 From this port we wilh yovi to j^rocecd by the way of Cape Hon^ 
 to the ifland of Otahcite, there to put in execution the direiftioi}* 
 
 n 2
 
 xcii INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. 
 
 which will be here-after fuggeftcd, fo far as they may appear to you 
 eligible on your arrival. In the mean time, \vc think it material to 
 provide againft the probability of your meeting with a foul wind in 
 your attempt to double Cape Horn ; in which cafe, after having made 
 the firft attempt as clofe in with the land as you think confiftcnt with 
 the fafety of the fliip, we recommend you to fland to the fouthward 
 to the diftance of at leaft four or five degrees ; when, if you ftill find 
 the wind blowing fteadily againil: you, rather than lofe much time in 
 attempting to beat againft it, we advife you to bear up and run for 
 the Cape of Good Hope, where you will find thofe refrefl^iments which 
 by that time you will ftand in need of. 
 
 On your arrival in the South Seas, the deftincd fcene of your bene- 
 volent exertions,- the immediate profpcd; of the important fervice be- 
 fore you will imprefs your inind with peculiar weight, and you will 
 be anxious to fulfil, to the utmoil of your poAver, the engagement 
 you have undertaken. You will then recollc<ft, that the fphere of 
 your a<5livity is widely extended, and includes a confiderable number 
 of different iflands remotely fituated from each other ; you will be 
 reminded of the refblution of the general meeting, which was thus 
 exprefled : 
 
 " That a miflion be luidcrtaken to Otaheite, the Friendly Iflands, 
 " the Marqucfas, the Sandwich, and the Pelew Iflands, in a fliip be- 
 " longing to the Society, to be commanded by Captain Wilfon, as far 
 *' as may be pradticable and expedient." 
 
 This refolution embraces a plan of great extent and importance, and 
 proceeds from the laudable and benevolent defire of introducing the 
 knowledge of Chrift into as many different iflands as poflible ; you 
 will therefore confider this refolution as the rule of your conduifl, and 
 keep it in your remembrance in all your proceedings. It is not to be 
 departed from, without folid and important reafons ; for, as the gofpel 
 4)f Chrift is a bleffmg beyond the power of calculation to eftlmate, the 
 <kfirablncfs of fending it to as many iflands as poflTible is, in proportion 
 to its incftiraable value. We do not mean, however, to encourage
 
 INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xciii 
 
 you to adopt a fyftcm of miffionary cntcrprifc beyond the boundaries 
 of difcrction ; we do not lu-gc you to depart from the principles of 
 prudence and caution, which fo Important an occafion requires; nor 
 by attempting to introduce the ad\antages of Chriftianity in many 
 places, fo to divide your numbers as to ^vcaken your cft'orts too much 
 in each, and endanger your fuccefs in all. The refolution is not in- 
 tended to prevent a wife and dlfcrcet clrcumfpe^lion. It is indeed de- 
 firable to introduce the gofpel into fcveral iflands ; but it is nccefTary, 
 if poffiblc, to eftablifli it in one ; for if you concentrate your exertions, 
 and gain a folld eftablilhment in one place, it may become the germ 
 of other miffionary efforts, and be a facred leaven which may gradually 
 spread its beneficial influence through numerous and dlftant iflands of 
 the South Seas. Thus you will perceive, that although the refolution 
 by which you arc to endeavour to regulate your operations is of great 
 extent, and highly dcfirable to be accomplifhed, yet that it is limited by 
 the confiderations of pradlicabllity and expedience ; and of thefe you 
 will of neceffity be the bell: qualified to judge. 
 
 The queffcion refped:ing the practicability of vifiting fo many dlftant 
 iflands muft be decided by circumftances which it is impoffiblc for us 
 to anticipate ; and even to you, when in the South Seas, a miffiou 
 may appear to be pra6licable, which you may neverthelefs not think 
 it expedient to attempt. For inftance, the Pelew iflands are the lali 
 which, in the order of your voyage, you will have occafion to vifit. 
 The charafter of the natives furniflies a ftronsr inducement to eftablifli 
 a mifTion among them, and the attempt may aUb appear to be prac- 
 ticable : but would you think it expedient to take a few miflfionaries 
 from the iflands at a great dlftance to windward, at an uncertainty ot 
 the reception which a miffionary plan might meet with in the former? 
 Suppofe that, by a new chief having arilen with Icfs favourable dil- 
 pofitions than the father of Lee Boo, or through any other caufe, you 
 fhould be prevented froA leaving our brethren there, with perfect fa- 
 tisfa6lion to yourfclf and them, what would be the effcd; ? You could 
 not admit of the wafte of time and, expenditure of money v. hich it
 
 xciv IXSTR.UCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. 
 
 •would require to convey them to the iflands where your other millions 
 roay have been eftabhflied, e\en if your return thither againft the 
 trade wind was pra<Slcab]c ; and you would probably have no alterna- 
 tive but that of bringing them with you to their native land. The 
 fame reafoning may apply with rcfpeft to the Sandwich iflands. It 
 is extremely defirable that the blefllngs of the Chriftiau religion 
 fliould be extended to thofe populous regions ; but the indvibitable ac- 
 counts which we have lately received of the a61;ual flate of thofe iflands, 
 do not permit us to recommend the efi:ablifhment of a miffion among 
 them at prefent. A variety of other confiderations w ill occur to your 
 mind when you are to decide on what is practicable and expedient. If 
 you look over the inventory of the different articles which make up 
 your cargo, fupplled by the liberality of our friends, or furnifhed from 
 the funds of the inftitution, you will probably conclude that they are 
 much more adapted for the co-operation of a number of individuals in 
 one or two focieties, than for a diftrlbution among more. When you 
 confidcr the qualifications of the mlffionaries, you will perhaps be 
 Inclined to think, that remaining in one or two bodies, they may form 
 models of civilized fociety, fmall indeed, but tolerably complete. 
 There are fome amoHtg them who are adapted to be ufeful by the im- 
 proved ftate of their minds, and their fitnefs for taking the lead in re- 
 ligious fervices ; there are others who are neceflary on account of the 
 fkilfulncfs of their hands, and their knowledge of the ufeful arts : 
 thus there would be among them that mvitual dependence and ufe- 
 fulnefs which is the cement of the fecial order. If you fhould fepa- 
 rate them into feveral parties for various miffions, it would occur to 
 you that this order and connexion would be very much broken ; and 
 as every miffion fhould contain within itfclf a competent fund both of 
 -divine and human knowledge, you might perhaps find it impradicable 
 to arrange our mlffionaries into feveral parties, and yet preferve among 
 them thcfe indifpenfable requifites. Among our brethren who accom»' 
 pany you, we truft you will find fome who poflc/s a confidcrable ac- 
 .^ualntance with the dodlrincs of t^hriftianity in their foundation ai)d
 
 INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON, xcv 
 
 mutual dependence, and arc qualified for the defence and confirmation 
 of the gofpel ; but others of them have not perhaps a view of the 
 fubjcdl fufficicntly accurate and enlarged to fit them for the office of 
 teachers. Tlicy underfland indeed the dodrines of grace in the rnoft 
 precious fenfe, by experimental convidllon ; and having a general idea 
 of them, may be very ufcful to the heathen by means of their conver- 
 fation as well as their exemplary lives. But in every miffion, hovv^- 
 cver fmall, it is effential that there fhould be fome whofe minds have 
 acquired a maturity in divine things, and who are fcribes well in- 
 ftru6led in the kingdom of heaven. This it might be difficult for 
 you to accomplilh, on the plan of eftablilhing a number of ditferent 
 fcttlements. 
 
 If from thefe reafons, or others which may arife in your mind 
 vrhen you are amidft the fcene of ad;ion, you judge that the caufe of 
 Chrift among the heathen will be beft promoted by the eftablifhment 
 ef fewer miffions, wc fliall receive great fatisfadiion in finding that 
 you are able to vifit more iflands, with a view to the introdudion of 
 the gofpel among them at a future period. By means of fome of the 
 Europeans now probably refiding at Otahelte, who may be difpofed to 
 accompany you, your acccfs to the underftandings of the iflanders will 
 be facilitated ; you will eafily communicate to them the beneficial 
 plan you are projedling in their favour ; and. you may afcertaia how 
 far a miffion to any of them may be advifablc. This mode of proce- 
 dure is highly defirabic, as it may throw a confiderable light upon our 
 future path, and affifl: our judgment rcfpccfting the defigns of Provi- 
 dence toward thefe illands. It is the n:iore to be recommended, on 
 account of the great degree of probability there is of our revifiting 
 them, foon after the fafc return of our veflel from her prefent expedi- 
 tion ; as it is evident, that, with the affillance of a freight homeward, 
 the navigation to tholt feas may be hereafter undertaken at little com- 
 parative cxpenfe, and thus opportunities be afforded of frequent inter- 
 courfe with them. Submitting thefe confiderations to your attention, 
 we now think it neceiTary to offer you a few more obfervations, derived
 
 xcvi INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. 
 
 from the beft information we can obtain, and the beft judgment v.e 
 can at prefent form on the fubject : you will adhere to them or not, 
 as you may find it expedient when you arrive. 
 
 It is well known that Otaheite is the ifland on which the general 
 expeftation has been fixed, as the place where our fiiil niiffion is to 
 be attempted ; and we have no reafon to alter the opinion we at firft 
 ■entertained of the eligibility of this fpot : but as our obje6l is to in- 
 troduce the gofpel of Chrifl among the heathen, all partialities or pre- 
 -dilcdlions to particular places muft be made fubfervient to that end. 
 We conceive you will vifit that ifland before any other, and you will 
 doubtlefs have an early iiiteview with the chiefs. It muffc be left to 
 your own difcretion how far you will then untold to them the occafion 
 of your voyage. You will alfo probably foon be vifited by fome Eu- 
 ropeans, and will moft likely find means to conciliate their confidence, 
 without committing yourfelf to them any further than you may.deera 
 prudent. All your difcrimination may be requifite to fix on thofc 
 among them who are beft fuited to become your inflruments ; from 
 them you will learn the prefent ftate of this ifland, and perhaps of 
 ■thofe adjacent, as to produce, population, difpofition of the natives, 
 and political relations. You will however be on your guard againfl: 
 mifreprefentation, and by comparing different reports find out the 
 truth. You will alfo guard againfl treachery and furprife. You will 
 be cautious whom you admit on board ; efpecially you will not allow 
 the females, except the wives of the chiefs, and only a few at a time. 
 Neither would it be prudent to permit too many of the Englifli, if 
 remaining at Otaheite, to be on board at once. You will take an early 
 opportunity of vifiting the fmallcr peninfula, as it has been reprefented 
 by fome voyagers to be the mofl: fertile, w^cll cultivated, and abounding 
 with cotton and fugar-cane. Let the fhip run down to the adjacent 
 ifland of Eimeo, examine the harbours of Taloo and Avoitai, convcrfe 
 with the chiefs, learn the prefent Hate of that ifland, and the dilpo- 
 fition of the inhabitanss toward a fcttlement of fome of our brethren 
 among them.
 
 INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xcvii 
 
 After you have afcertaincd to 3'our fatisfadllon the kind of treatment 
 which the miffionarics arc Ukcly to experience at Otaheite, you will 
 be more capable of judging how to improve the remainder of your 
 voyage, tlian wc are at prefent. To affill you in the direction ot _\our 
 farther attempts, we recommend in your attentive perufal the papcr.< 
 which have been committed to you, containing a defcription and hif- 
 torical account of the illands that are conneded A\ith Otaheite, or in- 
 cluded in the groups called the Friendlv Iflands and the MarquefaN. 
 You will compare them on the grounds of immediate advantage and 
 future profpC(5ts. To this fubjecfl belongs the confideration ot the 
 fafety of our women, probability of introducing oiir improvements, 
 fupply of provifions, the products of the iflands in fugar, cotton, Tan- 
 dai-wood, &c. We are thus particular in fuggelling thefe obfcna- 
 tions to you, becaufe you are nuich better qualified than we can expcd. 
 any of the miflionaries to be, to decide on the moft eligible fpots for 
 our fettlement ; and it is a circumilance of fo much importance as to 
 claim your utmoft attention. You will doubtlefs on this fubjed hold 
 very frequent communications with the milTionaries, and efpecially 
 with the committee, ftating to them the grounds on which you may 
 prefer one fpot to another : as it would be peculiarly defirable to ob- 
 tain, if poflible, a perfect unanimity of the whole body as to the place 
 of fettlement ; and the objeflions of thofe who may happen to think 
 differently from yourfclf, or from the majoritv of their brethren, Ihouid 
 be attentively heard and maturely confidered. It is, however, very 
 difficult tor {o many perfons perferth' to coincide on any fubjecl ; and 
 we therefore place the power of decifion in a majority of the commit- 
 tee, provided that you, the prefldent, form one of that majority. As 
 we conclude that you poil'cfs a luperior judgment on this fubjecl to 
 any of them, it appears to us to be a regulation highly conducive to 
 their good, that no fettlement fliould be made without your approba- 
 tion. For the fake of relieving you from fome part of the refponhbi- 
 lity, we lodge in the fame committee, and iubjecfl to the fame rule, 
 the po\\cr of deciding whether there lliall be more miffions than one 
 
 o
 
 xcviii INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. 
 
 ellabliihcd, and where the fublcqucnt ones fliall be attempted. To 
 this committee belongs alfo, under the fame reftriAion, the control 
 over the articles, implements, and vitenfils, which make up the cargo 
 of the fliip ; and they, witii your concurrence, are to decide, when, 
 where, and in what proportions, thofe articles arc to be landed. In 
 
 ' cafe, however, of feveral miffions being attempted, for the fake of ftridl 
 and impartial juftice we appoint, that two of the committee fliall be 
 taken from thofe who remain at the firll fettlement, and two others 
 from thofe who are intended to be detached to any other : yourfelf, 
 being the prefident, and perfc6lly difuiterelled, will have the power of 
 adminiftering juftice toward both. It is however intended, that a 
 quantity of articles, fuitable for prefents to the chiefs of iflands which 
 you may vifit in your way to Canton, fliould remain on board, and 
 you muft have the power of deciding what articles, and what quantity 
 of each, fhall be referved for that purpofe. 
 
 To a number of ferious Chrillians, who are, en all occafions, feeking 
 divine dired.ion, it will no doubt occur, that the determination of any 
 queftion refpe<fling attempts to extend the gofpel is of fuch tranfcen- 
 
 ■ dent importance, as to require the moft folemn Invocation of Him 
 who hcareth prayer, for the interpofition of his wifdom to guide you 
 in judgment. An unanimity, or nearly fo, of the whole body, on 
 queftions fo interefling, and which are to be decided after a folemn 
 feafon of devotion appointed for that fpecial occafion, would afford 
 confiderable fatisfadlion to our minds, as a favourable intimation of the 
 divine fuperintendence. 
 
 In negotiating with the chiefs, you will explain to them the advan- 
 tages which will arife to them from our refidencc among them ; that 
 it may be the happy effcd; of their carncll dcfirc, and not of our foli- 
 citation. As an inducement to us to prefer their ifland, they mufl give 
 
 ■us a full title to the land we may have occafion for, guarantee to us the 
 fafety of our property from plunder, the enjoyment of our laws and 
 cufloms, and the undiflurbed exercifc of our religion. Inftead of ex- 
 citing the jealoufy of the chiefs by any importunity on our parts to
 
 INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. xcIk 
 
 continue with them, it would be more prudent to fliew a rcadincfs to 
 leave the iflund, and fix upon fomc other, that it may be undcrfl:o(jd 
 by them, tiiat our induct'meuts to vifit them liave not been to receive 
 advantages, but to confer them. On this pinciple, as well as for 
 other reafons, we recommend that the land fliould not be purchafed^ 
 but required, as the condition, of our remaining with them : and that . 
 the prefents we make fliould not be conildexcd as payments, but as 
 gratuities, the expreffions and pledges of our good will. If you fliould 
 determine to make a fettlemcnt at feveral ilTands, you and the com- 
 mittee will decide what number, and which individtials, fliould rdide 
 at each. If this fliould be the occaflon of difputes which you cannot 
 amicably terminate, we recommend your appealing to the decifion of 
 Divine Providence by a folemn and religious ufe of the ancient infti- 
 tution of drawing lots. 
 
 We have now finiflied the inflirudtions which appeared to us needful 
 to communicate with refpect to the miffion. The changes which may 
 have taken place in the ftate of the iflands fiiicc the laft accounts, 
 may make it ncceflary for you to depart from the advice which we 
 have now offered, and refbrt to expedients more congruous to the cir- 
 Gumfl:ances before you, and better fitted to fecure the great objedl. 
 
 On your arrival at Canton,, you will addrefs yourfelf to the fa<5lory 
 of the India Company, and in all refpecfls conform to the conditions 
 of the charter, a copy of which you will take with you. You will in 
 particular obferve the neccffity of your being there by the month of 
 December, or at latcft in the month of January 1/98, that you may 
 receive your cargo on board, and fail for Europe in the early part of 
 the fpring. Thus we fliall cherifli the hope of your fafe return foon 
 after the fucceeding midfummer. In the mean time you will doubt- 
 lefs embrace whatever opportunities occur of writing to us either from 
 Rio de Janeiro, or by the firfl fliip which fails from Canton ; and let 
 your difpatches be addreffed to Mr. Jofeph Hardcaftle, of London. 
 
 We have now only to commend you to the all-fufficicnt care and 
 protcdijon of Hira who holds the winds in his fill, and the waters in the
 
 o INSTRUCTIONS TO CAPTAIN WILSON. 
 
 lioUow of his hand. The throne of mercy will be addreilcd with im- 
 ccafmg lupplications in behalf of your fafcty, and the fuccefs of your 
 embafly. You are accompanied by the afFediionatc efteem of the ex- 
 cellent of the earth ; and miniftring fpirits, wc truft, will rccci\ e the 
 welcome charge to con-soy vou in fafety to the place of your deflina- 
 tlon. May they be glad fpe6lators of the formation of a Chrifllau 
 temple in thefe heathen lands, and thus be furnlflied with the fubjcc^ 
 M' a new foug to Him that fittcth upon the throne, and to the Lamb ! 
 
 Signed by Order of the Directors, 
 
 JoHX Love, Sccretar)-.
 
 FIRST 
 ISSIONARY VOYAGE, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Inirodu^mi — Appointment of Mijponanes and Ship's Crew. 
 
 THE (lifcovcrics made in the great fouthern fea by the voyages 
 undertaken at the command of his prefent majefty, George the 
 Third, excited wonderful attention, and brought, as it were, into 
 light a world till then almoll unknown. Iflands, it may be faid, 
 innumerable, were found to cover the bofom of the Pacific Ocean in 
 different groups ; fomc of them extenfive, and many full of inhabi- 
 tants, who difcovered, by the fimilarity of their language and reli- 
 gion, the fame original race ; though how they became difperfed 
 over three or four thoufand fquare miles, with no other vefTel than a 
 canoe, is truly marvellous. The preliminary account affords a clear 
 and concifc view of former voyages. This intcrcourfe with Europeans 
 communicated fomc advantages, but withal entailed upon them mifcry 
 and dlfeafcs, to which before they had been utter flrangers. The 
 perufal of the accounts of thefe repeated voyages could not but 
 awaken. In fuch countries as our own, various fpeculatlons, ac- 
 cording as men were differently affedlcd, The merchant confulered 
 
 B
 
 ■2 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE 
 
 It' they would afford any objcd; of commerce ; the naturaUll cagcrl}' 
 explored the peculiar fubjedl of his refearches ; and the aflronomcr 
 fought a ftation, from whence he might obfcrve the tranfit of Venus 
 Over the fun, and deduce from thence ufeful improvement in that 
 celeftial fciencc. But when, as Mr. King obfer\-es, thefc iflands were 
 found to produce little which would excite the cupidity of ambition, 
 or anfvver the fpeculations of the intereflcd, they were ready to be 
 abandoned to their primitive oblivion, unlefs occafionally vifitcd by a 
 ftraggling fhip ; and after proving the fuperior advantages of our iron 
 tools, and led to the total negled; of their own, their fituation would 
 have become ftill more deplorable than their original ftate. The iron 
 we bartered with them could not be repleniflied, nor repaired by 
 them, and muft foon become ufelefs ; they would have loft the habit 
 of ufmg and making their former tools of bone and Hone ; whilft the 
 ravages of the difcafes which Europeans had probably communicated, 
 threatened to fwcep them from the earth with the befom of deflruc- 
 tion. Reflexions on their unhappy fituation had dropped from the 
 pen of the hvimane, and pity had often fwelled the bofom of the 
 compaffionate : a few felt for them, not only as men, but as Chrif- 
 tians, and wifhed fome mode could be devifed of communicating to 
 them the knowledge of that ineftimablc book, compared with which 
 all befide is pompous ignorance, and all the treafures of the earth 
 lighter on the balance than vanity itfelf. The objeft had lain on 
 many a heart, and prayer had gone up on their behalf; a feeble effort 
 was difappointcd by the unfaithfulnefs of thofe dcfigned for the work. 
 
 Yet the idea was not wholly abandoned, though the profped: of 
 its accomplifhment was almoft defpaired of: a few of the faithful 
 minifters of Chriil, affociated on another occafion, fecmed, at the 
 fame time, to exprefs a faint wifh that fomcthing could be done for 
 the heathen. On communicating their thoughts to others of their 
 brethren, they found a cordial difpofition to co-operate ; and the 
 attempt at Sierra Leone, though inftitutcd with a particular view, 
 brought forth feme letters on millions, fuggcfting their pradicability,
 
 TO THE SOUTH-SEA. ISLANDS. n 
 
 and calling to the attempt. This coincidence of a rifuifr^ fpiiit of 
 mifTionary pnrfuits, though in its loweft embryo form, led to couvcrfe 
 on the fubjc(!il, and to confidcr how the work might be begun : two 
 or three individuals offered to open a fubfcription for the purpofc ; 
 and the adive minillcrs who diredled the Evangelical Magazine 
 refolved to hazard an advcrtifemcnt of their defign, and to invite the 
 concurrence of their brethren. From thcfc fmall beginnings arofe the 
 great increafe ; and the cloud, at firft no bigger than a man's hand. 
 difFufed itfelf over this land, and poured down its copious fhowers ot 
 bleflings on the illcs of the fouthcrn ocean. A miflionary fociety was 
 in confequence formed in England, and zcaloufly feconded by our 
 brethren in North Britain. 
 
 Their objcd w^as fnnple and noble ; " to deliver mankind from the 
 " greateil poffiblc portion of mifcry which befets them, and to confer 
 " upon them the moft abundant meafure of felicity which our nature 
 " is capable of enjoying." They were confcious this could only be 
 effedcd by the gofpel of the grace of God preached among all nations, 
 as far as their opportunities or abilities might extend. For this end 
 their meetings became frequent, and their plans matured for exe- 
 cution. 
 
 After a long and ferious confideration of the fubjeft, they deter- 
 mined to commence with the iflands of the fouthern ocean, as thefc, 
 for a long time paft, had excited particular attention. Their fituation 
 of mental ignorance and moral depravity ftrongly imprefled on our 
 minds the obligation we lay under to endeavour to call them from 
 darknefs into marvellous Yisht. The miferies and difeafes which their 
 intercourfe with Europeans had occafioned, fecmcd to upbraid our 
 neglcd: of repairing, if poffiblc, thefc injuries; but above all, wc 
 longed to fend to them the evcrlafting gofpel, the firft and moft dif- 
 tinguiflied of bleflings which Jehovah has beftowed on the children 
 of men. 
 
 We -were fcnfiblc fomc could not underftand our motives, and 
 others would fufpedl or mifuiterpret them ; but confcious of the 
 
 B 2
 
 1 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE 
 
 fimplicity and godly fmcerity which prompted us to the undertaking, 
 we perfevered undifmayed with difficulties, and, through the good 
 hand of our God over us for good, have fiicceeded beyond our moft 
 fanguine expedlations. 
 
 The various fteps in which we have proceeded are now before the 
 public, and fubmitted to the attention of thofe who would meditate 
 on the wondrous maze of Providence, and ■contemplate the great events 
 that Ipring from means apparently the moft inconfiderable. 
 
 On notifying our intentions to the public, we met a fpirit of zeal 
 and liberality highly encouraging; applications manifold were poured 
 In of candidates for the mlffion, with fubfcriptions adequate to the 
 undertaking. None but men the moft feledl for piety were to be 
 admitted. We were defirous to obtain fome pofleffed of literary 
 attainments, but elpecially to procure adepts in fuch ufeful arts and 
 occupations as would make us moft acceptable to the heathen in that 
 ftate of inferior civilization to which they were advanced. A fele<3: 
 committee of minifters, approved for evangelical principles and ability, 
 w^as appointed to examine the candidates, as to their views, capacity, 
 and knowledge in the myfteries of godlinefs. Many were reje<fled, 
 and only thofe received, who, after repeated and careful attention tO; 
 the fubjeft, by inquiries into their condud; and chara^cr, had the 
 ftrongeft recommendations from the minifters and congregations with' 
 whom they had been joined in communion, and of whofc intelligence- 
 and devotcdnefs to the work we had the fulleft evidence. Thirty 
 men, ftx women, and three children, were approved, and prefeatcd: 
 to the directors for the commencement of the miffion.
 
 TO THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 
 
 List of the Missionaries who embarked on board the Duff", 
 
 at B/ackwal/. 
 
 NO. NAMES. ACE. 
 
 1 Rev. James Fleet Cover 34 
 
 2 John Eyre 28 
 
 3 John JefFerfonj 30 
 
 4 Thomas Lewis 3 1 
 
 5 Mr. Henry Bicknell 29 1 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 Daniel Bowell 
 Benj. Broomhall 
 John Buchanan 
 James Cooper 
 
 10 John Cock 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 13 
 iA 
 15 
 IX) 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 23 
 2J, 
 
 William Crook. 
 
 Samuel Clode 
 John A. Gillham 
 Peter Hodges 
 William Henry 
 John Harris 
 Hudden 
 Samuel Harper- 
 Rowland HailcU 
 Seth Kelfo 
 Edward Main 
 
 Ifaac Nobbs 
 Henry Nort 
 Francis Oakes 
 
 22 
 20 
 31 
 28 
 23 
 21 
 
 35 
 22 
 
 29 
 23 
 
 39 
 
 20 
 
 27 
 48 
 24 
 
 24 
 22 
 
 OCCUPATIONS. 
 
 Ordained Miniilcr. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. and has attended the hofpi- 
 
 tals and difpenfaries, and un- 
 
 derftands printing. 
 Houfe carpenter, fawyxr, and 
 
 wheelwright. 
 Shopkeeper. 
 
 Buckle and harnefs maker. 
 Taylor. 
 Shoemaker. 
 Carpenter. 
 Gentleman's fcrvant, and fmce 
 
 tinworker. 
 Whitefmith and gardener; 
 Surgeon. 
 
 Smith and brazier. 
 Carpenter and joiner. 
 Cooper. 
 Butcher. 
 
 Cotton manufacturer. 
 Indian weaver. 
 Weaver. 
 Taylor (late of the royal artil- 
 
 lery). 
 Hatter. 
 Bricklayer. 
 Shoemaker.
 
 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE 
 
 KO, NAMES. 
 
 25 Mr. James Puckey 
 
 ■26 W^illiam Puckey 
 
 2 7 William Smith 
 
 28 William Shelly 
 
 29 George Vcefon 
 
 30 James Wilkinfon 
 
 AGE. 
 
 25 
 20 
 21 
 21 
 24 
 
 27 
 
 OCCUPATIONS. 
 
 Carpenter. 
 
 Carpenter. 
 
 Linen-draper. 
 
 Cabinet-maker. 
 
 Bricklayer. 
 
 Carpenter and joiner. 
 
 WOMEN. 
 
 31 Mrs. Mary Cover 3? 
 
 32 Elizabeth Eyre . 04 
 
 33 Elizabeth HalTel 29 
 
 34 Sarah Henry 23 
 
 85 Mary Hodges 25 
 
 30 _^— . Hudden — 
 
 Wife of J. F. Cover. 
 Wife of John Eyre. 
 Wife of Rowland Haffcll. 
 Wife of Wm. Henry. 
 Wife of P. Hodges. 
 Wife of — Hudden. 
 
 CHILDREN. 
 
 37 James Cover 
 
 38 Thomas Haffcll 
 
 39 Samuel Otoo Haffcll 
 
 12 Son of J. F. Cover. 
 2 . Son of Rowland Haffcll. 
 lO weeks. Do. 
 
 We wiflied our fele(!lion of mariners lliould be equally choice, and 
 laboured to procure fuch, and wxre not a little fucccfsful in this be- 
 half. Captain Wilfon and the firfl mate, his nephew, were perfons 
 in every view equal to the undertaking, and as hearty in the work 
 as the miffionaries themfelves. Many of the fliilors w-erc men of a 
 like mind ; about half were communicants ; and every man w'as eager 
 to beg admittance with us, under the profcffion of wifhing to be 
 inftrumental in fo bleffcd a fcrvice, and the hope that he fhould gain 
 benefit and edification to his own foul. 
 
 During the firff fix weeks tliat they were detained in harbour, one 
 of our body, who continued with them daily, and often miniffcred 
 unto them, declares he never heard the name of God blafphemcd, a
 
 TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 7 
 
 paflionatc word fpokcn, or faw an unbecoming adllon in any one of tl>e 
 mariners, many of whom joined in the cxcrcifes of prayer and praifc 
 with the moft cordial devotion, and none who were not on duty ever 
 abfented themfelves from the ftatcd hours of worftiip. Surrounded as 
 we were by king's lliips in the harbour, and often incrcafcd on the 
 quarter-deck by numerous vifitants, this excited no fmall meafurc of 
 furprife and wonder at its novelty. The fongs of Zion were daily 
 heard over the deep. — The real Chriftian in every fituation of life 
 poireffcs peculiar excellence : his religion will never intcrnipt the dif- 
 charge of his duties in fociety ; none will be found fo confcientioufly 
 diligent ; divine principle will do more than the moft rigid difcipline. 
 We appeal to fads that muft carry conviftion to every candid and 
 unprejudiced mind. 
 
 The preparations being completed, and all the ftores on board, a 
 folemn dcfignation of the miffionaries to their office was made, and the 
 evening preceding the embarkation the dircdlors met the miffionaries, 
 and celebrated their laft happy communion together, in the fulleft 
 confidence of fliortly meeting again in the prcfcnce of God and of the 
 Lyamb, and enjoying eternal felloAvlbip with Jefus the mediator, and 
 the fpirits of all juft men made perfed:. 
 
 The profecutlon of our voyage for the accompllfliment of the bene- 
 volent and evangelical purpofes of our Ibciety will be found to contain 
 a variety of events, interefting to the navigator, the naturalift, and the 
 politician ; but above all, \\ ill engage the peculiar attention of thofc 
 who glory in the name of Chriftian, and long to fee, what they fully 
 cxped:, the coming of the kingdom of the Lord, and of his Chrift, 
 when " the mountain of the Lord's houfe fliall be eftablifhed in the 
 " top of the mountains, and the nations fliall flow unto it." — The 
 •cry of the uiilvcrfal church is, that " the Lord would haftcn it in his 
 *' time !"
 
 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179^. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Embarkation.. — Departure from the River. — Stay at PorifmoufTu 
 
 THE preparations being completed, and the miffionaries ready for 
 embarkation, the directors of the fociety were very anxious for 
 the Duff's faiUng with the Eaft India convoy, which, at this time lay 
 at Spithead, waiting for a fair wind. They embarked in fight of many 
 ipecftators, and accompanied by relations, acquaintances, and ieveral of 
 the dired-ors, to whom, as refiding in London, had been committed 
 the Ciire of the outfit of the nriffion. Augufl: the 10th, 1 796, at fix 
 in the morning, we weighed anchor, and hoiftcd our miffionary flag 
 at the mizen top-gallant- mall head : three doves argent, on a purple 
 field, bearing olive-branches in their bills. The morning was ferene, 
 and a gentle breeze blew from the W. N. W. ; few veffels were 
 ftirring on the river ; all was ftill and quiet ; and it fcemed a favour- 
 able feafon for pleafing contemplation to thole whofe hearts, warmed 
 wath benevolence to their fellow men, and ardour for the extenlion 
 of the Redeemer's kingdom, had long carneftly defircd to fee a prof- 
 pcdl fo promifing as this their firfl attempt now afforded. With fatis- 
 faftion they beheld thofe, who at a future period were to a£t alone in 
 the caufe, not difpirited at leaving their native country and friends, nor 
 with the thoiight of what lay before them, but, on the contrary, re- 
 figning thcmfclves into the hands of Him whom they firmly believed 
 able to carry all his purpofcs into effedl. The hymn, " Jefus, at thy 
 " command — wc launch into the deep," &c. was fung by upwards 
 of an hundred voices, producing a pleafing and folemn fenfation. The 
 failors in the fliips we paffcd heard with filent aftoniflim'ent, and our 
 friends, who lined the banks of the river, waved their hands, and bid 
 iis a laft adieu.
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. p 
 
 The fplrlt wliich animated the lircthren for this undertaking ^vill 
 be bcft felt by a fliort cxtraft or two from their journals, all which 
 ipcak the fame language. 
 
 One fays, " When taking a profpeil;ive view of the great work 
 " before us, my fovil was conllraincd to cry out, Who is fufficient 
 " for thcfe things ? But I was enabled to derive comfort and encou- 
 " ragcment from the confidence, that He who holdetli the winds in 
 *' his fift, and the waters in the hollow of his hand, can prcfcrvc 
 " from every evil. To his providential care I was enabled to furren- 
 " der myfelf ; determined, through his Divine afliftancc, to be de- 
 " voted to the work of preaching the gofpel of Chrill: to the poor 
 " benighted inhabitants of the iflands of our dcftination." 
 
 Another writes, " I felt deeply when leaving my native country 
 *' and dear friends, whom I loved as my life ; but loving the Giver 
 " of life, I truft, more than all, I went with tears of joy." 
 
 At Woolwich a vafl concourfe of people had colle(fted on the fliore 
 to falute us as we paflcd. The breeze frcfliening, we arrived at 
 Gravefend before noon, and employed the remainder of the day in 
 clearing the decks, which were in a very lumbered condition, from 
 the cagernefs of a multitude of kind individuals from the neighbouring 
 towns, who, wifliing to contribute to the comfort of the miflionaries, 
 came on board, bringing various articles of rcfrefliment, and entreating 
 they might be received, till every part of the ftiip was crowded to a 
 very great degree. The mlffionaries' chefts and hammocks were alfo 
 to be arranged and flung, to prepare for paffing the firft night of their 
 novel fituation between the decks with as little inconvenience as pof- 
 fible. The Rev. Dr. Haweis, the Rev, Mr. Wilks, and the Rev. Mr. 
 Brookfbank, direflors of the fociety, had come on board at Black- 
 wall ; the two latter defigning to go down the channel ^^•ith their 
 brethren to Portfmouth, and the former to remain with them till 
 they fhould leave England. Captain Wilfon, Mr. HardcafUc, and 
 Mr. Fenn, came on board from London, and fettled with the crcw 
 for their river pay and their bounty. The articles were agreed to and 
 figncd, and the fliip cleared at the cuftom-houfe. 
 
 c
 
 10 
 
 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE 
 
 [170a 
 
 THE LIST OF THE DUFF'S CREW, 
 
 James Wilson, 
 
 1 William Wilfon, 
 
 2 Thomas Godfell, 
 
 3 James Falconer, 
 
 4 Thomas Robfon, 
 i) Stanton, 
 
 6 John Mlcklewright, 
 
 7 John Orange, 
 
 8 Benjamin Bond, 
 Q Robert Lawfon, 
 
 ] William Wells, 
 
 1 1 Mark Yates, 
 
 1 2 Francis Dadlon, 
 
 1 3 James Wilfon, 
 
 14 James Lucas, 
 
 1 5 John Wells, 
 lO Robert Green, 
 
 1 7 John Stephens. 
 
 18 Benjamin Bar, 
 
 19 William Tucker, 
 
 20 Samuel Templeman, 
 
 21 William Brown, 
 
 22 Samuel Hurft, 
 
 Commander. 
 Chief officer 
 Second ditto. 
 Third ditto. 
 Gunner. 
 Carpenter. 
 Steward. 
 Sail maker. 
 Cook. 
 Seaman. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Ordinary feaman. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 Apprentice. 
 Boy. 
 
 nth. A frefli gale fpringing up from the S. E. we juftly appre- 
 hended the Eaft-India fleet would fail ; but as they are often by 
 irarious caufcs detained, we flill refolved to pufli on with all poffible 
 expedition, and after a day of great adiivity in fettling all matters, as 
 conveniently as the time would afford, for our proceeding to fea, at 
 feven in the evening we weighed anchor, and turned down into the
 
 August.] TO THl]: SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. U 
 
 Lower Hope. Mr. Henry Cox now took an aftc<!^i onate leave, and 
 left us to purfiic our voyage. To this gentleman's ability and un- 
 wearied diligence we muft ever acknowledge ourP^lvcs indebted, both 
 in forwarding our departure, by removing many great dilliculties, 
 and by his care to provide all things comfortable for thofe who had 
 to perform fo long a voyage. 
 
 12th. At eight A. M. we weighed from the Hope Point with a 
 frefli gale at E, S. E. In plying down we were met by feme kind 
 friends from Shcernefi, bringing with them three ilieep, one hog, 
 and fome fov\ls for iea flock. At two P. M. anchored on Leigh fl^it ; 
 at nine got under wxigh, and at midnight came to a little below the 
 Nore. This day the dircdors on board, the Rev. Dr. Havveis, Mr. 
 Wilks, and Mr. Brookfbank, afTcmbled the miffionaries, and direded 
 them to ele6t by ballot four perfons, to conftltute a committee, agree- 
 ably to the printed inflruftions of the body of diredors. They re- 
 turned, as the refult of their proceedings, the following names, viz. 
 Rev. James Cover, John Eyre,. John Jefferfon, and Thomas Lewis, 
 who were confequently admitted to that office by the direelors. 
 
 Mr. Wilfon, as chief mate, being confidered as prefident in the 
 abfence of Captain Wilfon, who was to join us at Portfmouth, the 
 committee proceeded to eftablifli the following regulations, viz. 
 
 .Refolved, That the Rev. John Jefferfon fliould be confidered as the 
 miffionaries' fecretaiy, and William Smith his affiftant. 
 
 Refolved, That the Rev. Thomas Lewis fhould take upon him the 
 office of librarian, and William Smith be his affifiant. 
 
 Refolved, That John A. Gillham, furgeon, ffiould be refponfible 
 for the medical books and inftruments ; but every miiTionary may 
 equally claim to read them under the library regulations. 
 
 Refolved, That John Harris fliould take upon him the office of 
 miffionaries' lleward, and dlftrlbutc the provlfions, as delivered to 
 him by the ffiip's fteward, to the different mcffes. 
 
 Refolved, That each mefs fliall receive the articles and quantities^ 
 as under : 
 
 C 2
 
 12 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179O. 
 
 Tea, one pound per month each mefs for the men, one pound and 
 a quarter for the women. 
 
 Sugar, two pounds per week each mefs. 
 
 Butter, one pound and a half per week each mci«. 
 
 Chccfe, four pounds per week each mefs. 
 
 13th. Whid N. E. a hght breeze. At four A. M. weighed, and 
 ran through the Five Fathom channeL Faffing through the Downs 
 wc received the unpleafant information that the fleet had failed from 
 St. Helen's. At one P. M. we rounded the South Foreland, and 
 during the refl of the day had little wind. 
 
 14th. Calms and breezes from the weft ward alternately, fo that 
 wc made but little way. It being fabbath-day, the Rev. Dr. Hawcis 
 preached in the morning, the Rev. Mr. Brookfbank in the afternoon, 
 and the Rev. Mr. Wilks in the evening, on the quarter-deck. 
 
 15th. Calm until fix in the evening, when a breeze fprung up at 
 N. E. Beachy Head bearing N. W. by W. About nine P. M. one 
 of his Majefty's Hoops of war hailed and hiformed us that a French 
 lugger was cruifmg fomewhere near ; bid us keep a good look-out, 
 and hoift a light if we difcovcred her, whilft they ran in nearer the 
 fliore. Happily we efcaped all attack of the enemy. 
 
 iCth. At eight A. M. anchored at Spithead. The Eaft-India 
 fleet had failed five days before our arrival. In paffing St. Helen's 
 a fquadron under the command of Admiral Gardner was juft putting 
 to fca, and in company with them we probably might have gone 
 fafe from the enemy ; but in a matter fo important we could not Haf^ 
 tily form the refolutlon : for, uncertain how far they would go in our 
 track, if obliged to feparate from them too foon we fliould run the 
 rillc of being captured ; and not to hazard fo favourable a beginning-, 
 was thought a fufRcieat reafon for us to wait a better opportunity of 
 convoy. 
 
 At Spithead we were vifited immediately by the Rev. Mr. Griffin, 
 of Portiea, and other friends of the mlffi.on, who flaewcd us all the 
 moll fraternal affection, and furniflicd us during our flay with the mofi.
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. ]3 
 
 generous lupplics. Tlic Rev. Mr. Eyre, of Homcrton, and others 
 Ironi town, came alio on board. Captain Wilfon arrived and took 
 the command. 
 
 l/tli. Mrs. Hudden being affecfled by tlie Tea, as moll of us had 
 been at firlt, fell into I'uch a dcjedlion of mind as engaged us to fend 
 her on Ihorc at her requell : her hufband went with her, though 
 reluftantly ; a man of a meek and quiet fpirit, aiid n\ight have been 
 a ufeful member of our comnumity ; but the directors tliought it by 
 no means right to fcparate man and wife. 
 
 Our anxious inquiries after the next convoy led us to the port- 
 admiral ; and Dr. Haweit;, with Mr. William Wilfon, by his direc- 
 tion, went on board the Adamant, Captain Warre, who received us 
 ■with politencfs, and informed us he fliould fliortly fail with a conioy 
 for Lifbon and Gibraltar, and would readily take us imdcr his pro- 
 tcftion. With this the dirediors were acquainted, and ordered us to 
 "wait the opportunity. 
 
 But the delay began to weary our patience : we all longed for the 
 day of our departure ; and though entertained with the mofl; cordial 
 welcome by the brethren at Portfmouth and Gofport, we waited the 
 fignal from the Adamant with eager defire. 
 
 Yet the Hay was not unprofitable ; the fame gracious Hand which 
 conduced us tliithcr gave us caufe to acknowledge his loving-kind- 
 nefs ; fome good, we hope, refulted from the preaching of many of 
 the dire<5lors and other brethren w'ho vifited the Ihip, and from the 
 milTionaries at Portfea, Gofport, and its vicinity. A fpace was given 
 to thole who, if they had felt any change of mind, might have de- 
 parted from the work ; but all became more confirmed and united. 
 
 An ingenious clergyman of Portfmouth kindly furnillied Dr. Haweis 
 and Mr. Grcathced with a manufeript vocabulary of the Otaheiteaa 
 language, and an account of the country, which providentially he 
 had preferved from the mutineers who were feized by the Pandora, 
 and brought to Portfmouth for their trials which was of unfpeakablc 
 fcrvice. to the miffionarics, both for the help which it. aifordcd thcxn-
 
 14 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796. 
 
 to learn before their arrival much of this unknown tongue, and alfo 
 as giving the moft inviting and encouraging defcription of the natives, 
 and the cordial reception which they might expcft. 
 
 Here alfo were depofited in peace the remains of Mr. Cover's little 
 boy; wdio, in the lail ilagc of a confumption, earneftly wilhcd to 
 accompany his parents, though it was evident to every intelligent 
 medical man that he could have but a few days to live, and was hap- 
 pily releafed before their departure. 
 
 A multitude of friends alfo had this opportunity of teftifying their 
 regard for the miffion, and furniflicd us with many things that, in 
 our hafte to depart, had been forgotten, or, during our flay here, been 
 thought of for the comfort of the voyage. 
 
 The miffionaries, during this delay, had, according to the regula- 
 tions cltabliflaed, conftantly exercifed themfclves on board in rotation, 
 in preaching, prayer, and praife, which many attended ; they em- 
 ployed themfclves in reading and writing, efpecially refpefting the 
 objeds of their miffion ; and in one of their afl'emblies agreed to 
 tranfmit to the body of the direftors the following addrefs : 
 
 " Brethren, 
 *' We, the miffionaries, whom you, under the influences of our 
 " common Saviour, Lord, and Mafter, Jefus Chrift, the only begotten 
 " Son of the eternal Jehovah, have been inflrumental in bringing 
 " together, uniting in one body, and every w^ay furnifhing with all 
 " temporal neceffaries for the arduous undertaking we have in hand, 
 * cannot bid adieu to our native country, and dear brethren in 
 " Chrift, without laying before the diredors of ^the fociety (with the 
 " defire the fame may be communicated to all whom it may concern) 
 " our views and feelings upon our prefent fituation and future 
 ** profpcds. 
 
 " Having, through grace, overcome the difagreeablcnefs which wc 
 " at firfl experienced on our embarkation, arifmg from our little ac- 
 " quaintance with each other, change in our habitation, and manner
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 1 3 
 
 " of living, we find our minds compofcd and rcfigncd, and our 
 " hearts more clofcly united to each other in the bonds of love. 
 
 " On looking forward to the length of our voyage, and delibe- 
 " rating on all the dangers and difficulties which thofe who traverfc 
 " the bofbm of the mighty deep are expofed to, and tVequcntly meet 
 " with, we are by no means dlfcouraged ; but can cheerfully give 
 " ourfelves up unto Him, who holdcth the winds in his flft, and the 
 " waters in the hollow of his hand. 
 
 " When we extend our view acrofs the great Atlantic ocean, and 
 " contemplate the more extenfive Southern lea ; when, in our ima- 
 " ginatlon, we conceive ourfelves landed on our deftincd iflands, 
 " lurrounded by multitudes of the inhabitants, earneftly inquiring, 
 " ' From whence do you come ? and what is your errand ?' \vc 
 " anfwer, ' From a dillant fliore : the friends of God and human 
 " kind ; touched with compaffion at your unhappy ftate, as rcprc- 
 *' fented by our countrymen who formerly have \ ifited you ; moved 
 " by the Spirit of our God, we have forfaken relatives and friends, 
 " braved florms and tempells, to teach you the knowledge of Jefus, 
 ''' whom to know is eternal life.' Though Satan and all the hofl of 
 *' hell fhould be ftung with indignation and refentment at our bold- 
 " nefs in the Lord, and fire .the hearts of their deluded votaries with 
 •' all the fury and madnefs which brutal ignorance and favage cruelty 
 " are capable of; though our God, in whofc name we go — our Sa- 
 " viour, by whofe rich grace we are redeemed, fhould deliver us up 
 " to their rage, and permit our bodies to be afflkled, yea, perfe- 
 " cuted unto death ; yet, truffing in the falthfulnefs of the Moft 
 " High, the goodnefs of our caufe, the uprightnefs of our intentions, 
 *' the fervency of our afieelion for Chrifl our head, and the ele6b of 
 " God, our hearts remain undaunted ; and being, by Divine mercy, 
 *• enlifled under the banner of the great Captain of falvation, we are 
 " defirous to be ' accounted wortliy to fuffcr for his fake,' and to 
 " endure hardllilp as bccometh good foldiers of Chrifl.
 
 i6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179G. 
 
 *' Such, honoured brethren, and fathers in Chrift, are our prcfent 
 " fcehngs ; \vhich we hope, through your united prayers, and the 
 " l\ipply of the Spirit of Jcfus Chrift, our Lord and your Lord, our 
 ** God and your God, Ave fliall never, never lofe. 
 
 " To you, and all v^^ho have contributed towards our going forth, 
 " we render unfeigned thanks ; and our prayers are, that the Moft 
 " High God may grant you occafion to rejoice in Jefus Chrift on our 
 *' behalf; to whofe grace we humbly and heartily commend you, 
 " mofl refpedlfully and afFeilionatcly bidding you — Farewell ! 
 
 " By order of the miflionaries, 
 
 " John Jefferson, Secretary. 
 
 " On board tlie Duff, at Spithcad, 
 " the 2:)th of Auguft 1796." 
 
 After waiting with fomc impatience for our departure, the convoy- 
 having been detained by delays unknown to us, and, when aflembled, 
 by contrary winds, at laft the welcome fignal was made September 
 10th: at nine A. AI. the commodore and fleet began to weigh, and 
 by- ten were all under fail ; we alone were ftill at anchor, detained by- 
 one of our miftionarics. Early in the morning a boat had been dif- 
 patched on fhore for the time-keeper, and to bring off Mr. John 
 Harris, the abfent perfon ; but after waiting a confidcrablc time in 
 vain, the officer was obliged to return without him. We then im- 
 mediately proceeded after the fleet, which was ftcering for the 
 Needles ; bvit by the time wc had reached Cowes the fine S. E. gale 
 failed us, and veering to the weftward, the fignal was made to return ; 
 when we came to in our former fituation, Monkton fort bearing N. 
 by E. Mr. Harris now came on board ; he had been on a vifit to 
 Southampton, and having heard the fleet were failing, hired a boat 
 and followed us ; but it is probable, had the breeze continued, that 
 be would have been left behind. 
 
 We had now anchored, as it proved, for thirteen days more ; in 
 which time, and during tlic whole of our detention, we received the 
 
 o
 
 Skpt."] to the SOUTII-SEA islands. 17 
 
 moft obliging and unremitting kindncffcs -from the inhabitants of 
 Portfea, Gofport, Southampton, and other places ; nor were wc ncg- 
 lc(5tcd by our friends in London, many of whom came purpofcly to 
 vifit us, and thought themfclves amply repaid by witncffing the uni- 
 verfal harmony wjiich prevailed in the fliip : for, though the mif- 
 iionaries were moflly ftrangers to each other, their behaviour was fuch " 
 hs gave reafon to hope they would enjoy that peace and cordial good- 
 will among themfelves, fo eflcntlally neccflary to promote fuccefs in 
 the great work in which they we^re jointly engaged. At laft the 
 wifhed-for hour of departure arrived ; the fignal was made by the 
 Adamant to drop down to St. Helen's. Nothing could exceed the 
 beauty of the fcene; the day was remarkably fine; the convoy moving 
 on different tacks with their canvafs fpread, and paffing the various 
 {hips of war at anchor in the harbour. This being a flate holiday, 
 the forts and men of war began their ufual falutes whiht the convoy 
 was^under fail, which tended greatly to heighten the grandeur of the 
 fcene. On the turn of the tide they all cafl anchor, and waited fot 
 their final departure in the morning. 
 
 The Rev. Dr. Haweis had been daily on board, had often preached 
 to us, and lately celebrated a fweet and blefled communion with the 
 miffionaries and mariners ; he now took his forrowful, though joyful 
 leave of us, with an addrefs from Hebrews iii. 1 . : his heart appeared 
 to be full, yea overflowing with love ; while we parted with many 
 tears, probably to meet no more till we fliould be rc-aflembled around 
 the throne of God and of the Lamb.
 
 ]S FIRST MISSIONx\RY VOYAGE. [1796. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Voyage from Portfrnojith to St. Jago, and Occurrences there. 
 
 'E now %odk our final departure from Portfrnouth, and launched 
 forth on the great deep. The fignal for failing being given, 
 the mlffionarics came on deck, and every countenance feemed elated 
 ivlth joy at the thought of foon being employed in the great work. 
 
 At five^A. M. the commodore and the fleet, confilling of fifty- 
 feven fail of tranfports and Portugal traders, were under way, the Fly 
 floop of war bringing up the rear. At noon we were all in a fair 
 way without the Iflc of Wight; wind eafterly, thermometer 57, the 
 air cold. 
 
 25th. Proceeding with a fine gale, by eight o'clock on Sunday 
 morning we were off Falmouth, when the commodore made' the 
 fignal for the fleet to lie by. A boat from St. Maw's coming along- 
 fide, we difpatched letters to our friends of our fafety and health. 
 About noon a frigate came out of the harbour and joined us ; the Fly 
 floop at the fame time hauled her wind to the eaftward : the commo- 
 dore then made fail, and at fix P. M. the Land's End bore north, 
 diftant five leagues. This was the laft fight of Old England that 
 many on board were ever to have, and they, no doubt, felt much on 
 the occafion, though fcnfible it was not for thofe who had parted 
 with country and friends, and taken up the crofs, to look behind : 
 indeed, every man feemed fully fatisfied with his defl:Ination. 
 
 2f5th. Frefli gales from the N. E. quarter, accompanied with rain, 
 and a large eafterly fvvell, which caufing the fliip to roll, mofl: of the 
 brethren experienced the fca-ficknefs fevcrcly ; but remained, not- 
 withflanding, unfliakcn in their dcfirc to go on, bearing with Chrif- 
 tiari fortitude what they knew to be the general attendant on all new
 
 OcTOBF.R.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. ig 
 
 travellers by fea. At noon wc fell in with an Englifh frigate and a 
 two-decker cruifing, one of which fpoke our commodore. In croffiug 
 the Bay of Bifcay we had favourable winds, and being with the fleet, 
 it afforded us an opportunity of feeing, by comparifon with the con- 
 voy, how fine a (hip wc had got to perform our long voyage ; for 
 while others were crowding all fail, we coidd go a-hcad under our 
 topfails, the men of war carrying tl\c fame fail. This encouraged a 
 hope alfo, that in cafe of being chafed by an enemy, there might be a. 
 probability of effecting our efcape by means of failing. 
 
 On the 2Qth our fea-fick miffionaries who were recovering, devoted 
 part of the day to learning the Otaheitean language and other ufeful 
 ftudies, A hawk, this day, rcfted on our rigging, and was caught : 
 a miffionary remarked, " So might my poor foul, wandering from 
 *' its true home, be loll:, if not gracioully prevented by Divine 
 " mercy." 
 
 On the 30th, being in latitude 41° 50^ N. long. 11° 1 7' W. the 
 commodore made the fignal for the hcadmoft fliips to lie by ; the 
 wind at the time blowing fair for us, the captain thought we might 
 venture to make the bcft of our way, efpecially as the greatcft danger 
 was now over, and we could go but little farther without deviating 
 widely from our courfe : hoifting our enfign, therefore, to fignify our 
 intention, wc were anfwered by the commodore, and making all fail, 
 were followed bv a South-Sea whaler and two other vcffels. 
 
 The fleet foon dlfappeared, and the miffionaries held a particular 
 meeting of prayer and thankfgiving : praifmg God for pall mercies, 
 and confidering themfelves now deprived of human protcftion, they 
 gave themfelves up into the hands of the Lord, and committed them- 
 felves to his keeping and care, who hath promifcd, " when ye pafs 
 " through the waters I will be with you." 
 
 0(itober iff. The wind continued at N. E. and we failed before 
 it with a plcafant brec'/.e, about fix knots an hour. — How gracious is 
 God in favouring us with fuch wind and weather ! w c want nothing 
 but more gratitude and love. 
 
 D 2
 
 •20 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796. 
 
 2d. This being the Lord's day, Mr. JefFerfon preached in the 
 niorning, and with his other brethren adminiftered the communion 
 to the captain, miffionaries, and feamen. Surrounded now only with 
 fea and iky, we feemed to have taken our departure from the abodes 
 of the living, to be nearer the prefence of our heavenly Father ; and 
 drinking out of the ever-flowing fprings of his love, Ipent the day 
 in prayer and pralfe. 
 
 3d. The miffionaries in turn kept up the evening and morning 
 devotions, and through the day employed themfelves in fludy, or 
 thofe occupations they could purfue. The women and children bore 
 the voyage amazingly well ; except a little fea-ficknefs, all was per- 
 fectly pleafmg, and not a complaint to be heard. Wc faw a large 
 ihip, and took care to pafs to windward of her, left flie fliould prove 
 an enemy ; but the difplay of the American flag freed us from that 
 apprehenflon. 
 
 On the 0th a beautiful fun-rlfmg : we faw the ifland of Madeira^ 
 which Ihows high, and may be feen in clear weather when diftant 
 feventeen or eighteen leagues. This ifland, lying in the neighbour- 
 hood of Europe, and famous all over the world for its wines, is 
 largely defcribed by different authors ; therefore, had we even oppor- 
 tunity of making obfervations of our own, to infert them here would 
 be unnecefl!ary. 
 
 Mr. Cover and Mrs. Eyre were ftill afFecflcd with fea-ficknefs ; all 
 the reft were in perfed: health. We pafled Madeira, intending to 
 touch at St. Jago, the principal of the Cape de Verd iflands, there to 
 replenifti our water, and procure what refrcfliments the place could 
 fpeedily fupply. 
 
 The night of the 0th and the following day we had unfettled^ 
 fqually weather, the wind veering from N. E. to'S. E. and frequent 
 heavy fliowcrs of rain, with which we filled fome of our water-calTis. 
 On the 8th wc came in fight of Palma, one of the Canary iflands.. 
 On the lath, in lat. 23*^ N. wc faw a ftrange fail in the S. E. quar- 
 ter ; ftie fired a gun to leeward, to fignify fhc was a friend ; wc did
 
 October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 21 
 
 the fame : but as we drew nearer to lier they took the alarm, and 
 crowdhig what fail they could, ileercd from us. Dlftance run this laft 
 twenty-four hours one hundred and eighty-five miles. — 11th, crofled 
 the tropic of Cancer, and had fcveral fiying-fifli about us ; thefe were 
 a novel fight to many on board, and excited much furprife and ad- 
 miration. 
 
 12th. This day had been previoufly appointed for folemn humilia- 
 tion and falling, begging God to prepare us <x)r our work, and forgive 
 whatever his pure eyes had beheld amifs among us. Mr. Lewis 
 preached in the morning, Mr. Eyre in the evening ; the whole day 
 was fpent in devotion by the miflionaries, and proved a feafon ot 
 mercy and refrelhing from the prefence of the Lord. Proceeding faft 
 to the fouthward, on the 13th, about nine A. M. we faw Sal, which 
 is the northernmoft of the Cape de Verd ifles ; it has a fun-burnt 
 appearance, inforriuch that, as we failed along to the eallward, about 
 three miles off fliore, there was not a tree or green fpofe to be fecn. 
 At four P. M. Bona Villa came in fight ; it is hilly, and might be 
 fcen fevcn or eight leagues off, but for a thin white haze which is 
 common to all thefe illands, and has the effed, that when you think 
 the weather clear, you cannot fee the land till within two or three 
 leagues of it. This illand has a good harbour on its well fide, where, 
 as we failed along, we faw fome veffels at anchor. At eight in the 
 evening we took a departure from the S. W. end of Bona Villa, bear- 
 ing at that time E. S. E. fix miles : then, after running S. S. W. I W» 
 thirty-five miles, jull as the day dawned we faw the ille of Mayo, 
 and right a-head, dillant a mile or two, the dangerous rocks which 
 lie off its north end. 
 
 14th. The fea broke upon them with great violence ; had we kept 
 running on, we fliould jull have hit them; but a courfe S. by V/. I W. 
 from the weft fide of Bona Villa, will take a lliip near to the eaft 
 fide of Mayo, and lead clear of this lafl danger. Two Ihips, one 
 brig, and a fchooner, were lying in Mayo road, probably for cargoes of 
 fait, abundance of which is yearly lliipped from thefe illands.
 
 22 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179a. 
 
 With pleafant weather, all iliils fet, and a fine fair wind, by eleven 
 A. M, we iofl fight of Mayo, owing to the before-mentioned hazy 
 atmofpherc, for we were at no great dlflancc from it ; at the fame 
 time we could difcern St. Jago off the deck. At one P. M. pafled 
 the S. E. point, and half an hour after tacked clofe to Green Ifland ; 
 then made two fhort tacks, and came to with the fmall bower iu 
 eight fathoms, the fouth end of Green ifland bearing W. S. W. | W. 
 and the peaked mountain open about two fails breadth to the eaflward 
 of the flag-llaff on the fort. 
 
 Thus have we fafely reached the fa'lT: port for refrclliment, after a 
 voyage perfcftly pleafant, and juft three weeks fmcc wc left St. He- 
 len's. The Lord has fliewn as great favour indeed ; the wind hath 
 been fo fair, and the weather fo good, that divine fcrvice hath been 
 regularly and dally condud;ed without the leaft interruption. — How 
 great are his mercies! Such poor frefh- water failors as we were, needed 
 thefe gracious commencements, to prepare us for the vaft fpace which 
 yet remained. 
 
 As foon as the fails were furled the captain fent the firft mate with 
 his refpecis to the governor, to requeft leave of him to water and 
 purchafe refrefliments, which he very politely and readily granted. 
 The chief governor relides at St. Jago town inland, and the gentle- 
 man at Port Praya was his deputy. Refpccling live flock, vegetables, 
 &c. he iaid that none could be purchafed this evening ; but as the 
 news would quickly fprcad that a Ihip had arrived in the port, to- 
 morrow early the natives would refort within the walls of the fort, 
 where the market is ufually held ; and as each brings a part of what 
 he pofTefles, there is generally collected whatever the ifland affords. 
 This being the cafe, we could only go on with our watering, which 
 is here attended with niuch trouble, having to roll the cafks a quarter 
 of a mile over a hot foft fand, and take them off through a heavy 
 furf : befidcs, the water, after it is got, is brackilh. That for the ufc 
 of the fort is brought on affes or camels from a diflance of three or 
 four miles. ^
 
 October.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 23 
 
 The deputy-governor had long laboured under a dangerous com- 
 plaint, and though for fomc time pail in a v> ay of recovering, yet for 
 want of advice and medicines v\'as apprehenfivc of a relapfc. Dr. 
 Gillham being on lliorc, the cafe was made known, and his opinion 
 and advice agreeing with what had been told the governor before by 
 a furgcon of an Indiaman, gained confidence, and the doftor's fervices 
 were gladly accepted, who prefcribed for the governor and his lady, 
 who was alfo indifpofed ; and he vifited fomc poor fick natives. Their 
 difeafcs he chiefly found to be intcrmittents, difeafes of the liver, and 
 anafarca. He reports the place as very unhealthy, yet was informed 
 ot a perfon one hundred and ten years old. 
 
 15th. At daylight the pinnace was detached for another turn of 
 water, fomc of the miffionarics voluntarily lending their affiflance. 
 On her return the fhip's fteward was fent to trade for live ftock, &c. ; 
 a few of the miffionarics accompanied him to procure what things they 
 wanted for their own ufe : old clothes they found to be a ftaple ar- 
 ticle : however, we were in a meafure difappointed, for the market 
 was not as well furnifhed as we expecT:ed, owing, as the fort alleged, 
 to but few of the country people being yet apprifed of our arrival ; 
 therefore all we got for the cabin was, one turkey, fi\'e fowls, five 
 pigs, a quantity of oranges, and a quarter of a cafk of Madeira wine 
 for tho ufe of the miffionarics, which we procured from the captain 
 of an American brig that lay in the port. While we were on Ihurc 
 the governor treated us with the greatcft refped: and kindncfs, and 
 had Dr. Gillham, myfelf, and two of the brethren, to dine with him. 
 In return for his civility, Captain Wilfon fent him a cheefe and fome 
 tea and fugar, articles which he flood in need of, the regular fup])lies 
 from Lifbon having net arrived, though paft the ufual time. Our 
 water being completed, at five P. M. a gun was fired from tlie fhlp, a 
 flgnal for thofe who were on fliore to repair on board ; hoiflcd the 
 boats in, got under way, and by feven o'clock were clear ot the har- 
 bour :- thermometer "i']'', very fultry. St. Jago is the moft fruitlul 
 and the beft inhabited of all the Cape de Verd iflands, notwith-
 
 t24 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE • [1796. 
 
 ftanding it is very mountainous, and has in it a great deal of barren 
 land. The principal town is named after the ifland, and is fituated 
 in 15" N. iat. ; it ftands againft the -fide of two mountains, between 
 which there is a deep valley two hundred yards wide, that runs 
 within a fmall fpace of the fea. In that part of the valley next 
 the fea is a ftraggling ftreet with houfes on each fide, and a rivulet 
 of water in the bottom, emptying itfelf into a fine cove, or fandy 
 bay, where the fea is generally very fmooth, fo that fhips ride there 
 with great fafety. A fmall fort is erefted near the landing-place 
 of this bay, where a guard is conflantly kept, and near it is a bat- 
 tery mounted with a few fmall cannon, but incapable of refifting an 
 enemy. 
 
 Port Praya is a fmall bay, fituated about the middle of the fouth 
 fide of the ifland, in Iat. 14" 5 3' N. long. 23° 3o'W. ; it may be known 
 by the fouthernmoft hill on the ifland lying inland in the direftion 
 of weft from the port ; the hill is round and peaked at the top. Green 
 ifland may alfo be taken as a mark by which to know the harbour ; 
 it lies on the weft fide of 'the bay, is not very high, and has fteep 
 rocky fides. From this ifland to the weft point of the bay lie fui^ken 
 rocks, upon which the fea continually breaks : the two points which 
 form the entrance lie in the direction of W. S. W. and E. N. E. half 
 a league from each other. It is ufual for Eaft-Indiamen, Guinea 
 traders, and others bound to the fouthward, to touch here for refrcfli- 
 ments. " Bullocks," fays Captain Cook, muft be purchafcd with 
 " money ; the price is twelve Spanifli dollars a-head, weighing bc- 
 " tween two hundred and fifty and three hundred pounds. Other 
 " articles may be got from the natives in exchange for old clothes, 
 *' &c. ; but the fale of bullocks is granted to a company of mer- 
 " chants as their peculiar privilege, and they conftantly keep an agent 
 " rcfiding on the fpot." This may in general be true, but we could 
 find neither merchants nor agents, confequcntly got no bullocks ; 
 however, had our ftay been longer, it is probable fomc of then) 
 would have come to the fort.
 
 October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 25 
 
 Though our {lay was very fliort, our brethren on fliorc were not 
 inattentive to their firft objcd: ; we fliall juft mention, in the {Im- 
 pHcity of the language of tlie reporter, what paflcd on one occafion : 
 " I was meditating on the great goodnsfs of God to me an unworthy 
 " creature, and that ' whofoever is afraid or afliamed of his word 
 " before men, of him will the Son of Man be afhamed,' when I met 
 ** a native black man, who invited me to his houfc. My mind was 
 " greatly imprcffed with the ignorance and fuperftition I favv ; fo I 
 " went with him, and found him very friendly: he fpoke the Englifii 
 " language fufficiently to be underfcood ; I inquired what religion he 
 " was of; he told me he was a R,oman Catholic. After fpeaking a 
 " little of their mode and manner of worfhip, I told him freely I 
 " fearedihe was wrong; that God could not be worfhipped through 
 " the medium of images, pointing out the fevcral paiTages of God's 
 " word which forbad fuch worfliip ; and, bleiTcd be God, he appeared 
 " very much to give way to what I faid to him ; and I hope the Lord 
 " will convince him by his Spirit. Before parting from him, I dcfircd 
 " him to read over all the paflages I had pointed out to him, for he 
 ** had an old Bible, and could read a little : I begged him to compare 
 " the word of God with the fcntimcnts he had been taught, and to 
 *' pray to God without images fet before him, as they arc an abomi- 
 ". nation to the Lord ; and there can be but one true way of wor- 
 " fhipping him through Jefus Chrift, and him alone. Thus, after a 
 ** few more words, we parted, and I hope the labour will not be iu 
 " vain in the Lord."
 
 26 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Run to Rio Janeiro — Reception and Ohfervattons. 
 
 1 8th. Iff AVING completed the purpofe of our landing at Port 
 -*--*■ Praya, and afrefli taken our departure, at a little diflance 
 off the ifland a fine breeze fprang up, and continued from E. S. E. to 
 E. N. E. with hazy weather, then gradually declined to calms and 
 light airs alternately. Lat. go 30^ N. long. 23° W. at one P. M we 
 faw a fail to the weflward, and by five o'clock in the evening, the 
 variable light winds being mofl favourable to her, flae had got within 
 a mile of us ; then hoifling Englifh colours, fired a gun to bring us 
 to : we likewife fired and fliewcd our colours ; and obferving that Ihc 
 had the advantage of failing wc bore down to fpeak with her ; but 
 there being hardly any wind, it was dark before we came within hail r 
 their gun-portsr, fore and aft, were up, the between decks lighted,, and 
 the crew at their quarters. This formidable appearance damped the 
 fpirits of our peaceable pafTengers, who were now in fufpenfe whether 
 they fhould go to France or Otaheite ; for as flic was much our fupe- 
 rior in force, we mufl inevitably have fallen into their hands had thej 
 been enemies : but on hailing her our apprehenfions vanifhed ; her 
 name was the Jack Park, of Liverpool, bound to Africa ; fhe was a 
 letter of marque, and out of twenty-two velTels fhe had examined we 
 only were Englifh. 
 
 The obfcrvations of the mlffionaries, on this occaflon, are well 
 worth remarking: " Many fears began to arifc in our minds; but 
 " thanks be to God, we were enabled to caft our care upon Him^ 
 " and rcfign ourfelves to his bleffcd w ill ; knowing that whatever 
 " the Lord in his providence fhould fend us, we tmft fhall be for his 
 " own glory — the Lord is better to us than all our fears."
 
 October.] TO THE 30UTFI-SEA ISLANDS. 27 
 
 19th. " This morning at fun-rifing I was upon deck," fays W. P. 
 ■" and ftruck with the fccne prcfcntcd to my view. The fca was 
 ^' quite calm and fercnc, the fky was moft beautiful, and the fun 
 *' difcovering his difk out of variegated clouds : I never before faw 
 " any thing fo delightful. At a dillance were fomc watcr-fpouts 
 *' extending from the clouds to the fca, which formed a moft won- 
 *' derful objed : I thought of the beautiful words of the Pfalmift, 
 " ' They who go down to the fea in fliips, &c. they fee the works 
 " of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep'." 
 
 21ft. A heavy fquall came on when the miffionarics were engaged 
 between decks in evening prayer ; and the faip heeling on a fudden, 
 the lee fcuttle being open, the water ruflicd in like a torrent, and rather 
 alarmed them. " 1 caught up," fays W. H. " a gown of my wife's, 
 " the firft thing in the way, and held it in the fcuttle-hole till the 
 *' carpenter went over the fhip's fide and clofcd it tight, The fquall 
 " did not continue long, and we were enabled to fmg the praifes of 
 *•■ our Lord with enlarged hearts." 
 
 22d. A number of Iharks were playing round the Ihip ; w& 
 caught two, each about five feet long ; after being cut into pieces, 
 and the entrails taken out, the heads jumped about the deck for acon- 
 fiderable time. 
 
 27th. The weather became now very unfcttled, the winds va- 
 riable and fqually, attended with much thunder and lightning ; here 
 we alfo felt the power of a vertical fun, and, apprehcnfive of its 
 ilckening effe(?ls, put in practice thofe methods which eminent 
 voyagers have ufed fo fuccefsfully : we firft waflied between decks 
 ■quite clean, and when dry fumigated with tobacco and fulphur : at 
 fix every morning the hammocks were brought upon deck ; and thus 
 the berths, kept as clean as poffible, received the benefit of the frcfh 
 air. From the 18th to the 22d of the month we failed through a 
 part of the fea which in the night exhibits a brilliant appearance ; 
 all round the fhip, in her wake, and where the fqualls ruffle the fur- 
 face, being grandly illuminated. Some alTcrt this to be occafioncd 
 
 E 2
 
 1^ FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179K 
 
 by animalcules which thus glow in the dark, their lliining parts being 
 turned upwards by the turbulence of the waters. On the 27th, in 
 lat. 3*^ N. and long. 2S''. W. we got the frelh S. E. trade wind, the 
 falutary effects of which were gratefully received ; for, fcnfible whence 
 our bleffing comes, we had reafon to be thankful, that, after the late 
 weather, fo pernicious to European confkitutions, we were all pre* 
 ferved in good health. 
 
 2Qth. We faw a very remarkable flioal of porpoifes ; they rofe as 
 if difciplined in a flraight line extending about half a mile, making 
 fo fuddcn a noife and ruffle in the fea, that at firft fight we took them 
 to be breakers. About midnight we croffed the equator in long. 
 30° W. ; the variation by five fets of azimuths 5^ 25' W. 
 
 In thefe latitudes we naturally expedled to meet calms and burning 
 fens, inftead of which we have a delightful breeze, which carries us 
 along about nine knots an hour ; and the fun-beams being broken by 
 clouds and a haze, the heat hath not exceeded what we have often 
 felt in England. — How great is his mercy ! 
 
 31 ft. At fix A. M. faw the ifland of Fernando de Noronha, 
 bearing W. N. W. nine leagues ; then run S. S. W. forty-two miles, 
 and obferved in lat. 4° 31^ S. long, by account 32° I9' W. This 
 jfland, when it bore W. N. W. nine leagues, fliewed in detached 
 hills, the largeil: of which had the appearance of a church fteeple. 
 
 " This ifland," fays Antonio de Ulloa, " hath tv;o harbotirs, ca- 
 ** pable of receiving fhips of the greatell burden ; one is on the north 
 " fide, the other on the north-well ; the former is, in every refped:, 
 " the principal,, both for flicker, capacity, and the goodnefs of its 
 •* bottom ; but both are expofed to the north and wefl: ; but thefe 
 *' winds, particularly the north, are periodica], and of no long con- 
 *' tinuance." 
 
 November ill. After paffing this ifland the wind continued at S. E. 
 till in lat. 7° S. it became variable, fliifting almofl; every day from 
 about S. S. E. to E. and back by the eaftvvard to S. When there 
 wr.s northing in the wind, the Avcathcr was moll unfcttled and
 
 Nov.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 29 
 
 rainy ; when in the fuuthcrn quarter we had gencnilly fair weather, 
 though fometimes the fuuth-caftcrs were accompanied with a Uttle 
 rain. 
 
 The porter being cxhauftcd, the captain propofed to iflue half a 
 pint of Madeira wine to the miffionarics, which was thankfully 
 accepted. 
 
 2d. Caught tvvo Portuguefe men of war in a bucket ; they are. 
 beautiful pink-coloured bladders in the fliape of a curious Ihcll, and 
 put out innumerable arms like worms about a foot long, which, on 
 being touched, fling like nettles. They rife to the furface, and feud 
 before the wind like little fhips. 
 
 4th. We have to acknowledge the unfpeakable goodncfs of God 
 towards us ; it is fix weeks this day fince we left St. Helen's, and we 
 are all in health, ftrength^ and acfllvity ; and have enjoyed an uninter- 
 rupted favourable wind ever fincc we quitted our native fliore. 
 
 6th. Celebrated the communion on the quarter-deck, covered 
 with an awning to keep us from the fun — a very comfortable time — 
 enabled to rejoice in the Lord our ftrength and righteoufnefs : Oh, 
 may his kingdom fpread far and wide ! 
 
 7th. Met this evening to fend up our united prayers with our 
 brethren in England, for a blefling on this and all miffionary labours 
 throLighout the world : we began at half paft four, to corrcfpond witK 
 Gur brethren at feven o'clock, fuch being the difference of time. 
 
 9th. in lat. 18" 3(/ S. long. 3/"^ -lO^ W. we founded on the outer 
 part of the Abrolhos banks in eighteen fathoms; and while we were 
 •running fixteen leagues on a S. W. courfe had irregular foundings, 
 -viz. 18, 20, 22, 27, 38, IQ, !/» 30, 25, coarfe fand with reddlfli 
 ftoncs. At noon we obferved in lat. Kj'^ 15^ S.; our longitude by 
 lunar obfervation of Hva and moon 38° 30^, by account 38° 21' W. 
 From noon, with irregular foundings of nearly the fame depth, we ran 
 S. S. W. fourteen leagues farther, and could then find no bottom with, 
 fifty fathom of line. . Here we reckoned ourfelves to be in lat. I (f 5i^'S. 
 long. 38° 40'' W. and clear to the Ibuthward of the Aibroihos banks
 
 30 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE, [1796. 
 
 faw Efpirito Santo. We then ran S. by W. | W. fifty-one miles, 
 4nd obfervxd in 20^ -ll^ S. long, 3Q° W. ; afterwards running fourteen 
 hours upon a courfe, made good S. W. | W. one hundred and four 
 ■miles, we founded in fifteen fathoms, upon a bank (as wc fuppoie) 
 which hes off Cape Thome. 
 
 1 1th. At eight A. M. we faw the fcattcred iflands which lie to 
 the northward of Cape Frio. The weather being hazy we xiad no 
 obfervation. At half paft two Cape Frio bore N. | W. five miles. 
 It now fet in to rain very hard, wdth briilc gales from the N. E. ; in 
 confequence of which we put the lliip under a fnug fail, intending 
 to fpend the night betwixt the Cape and the entrance of Rio dc Ja- 
 neiro ; {landing in fhore to thirty fathoms, and off to forty-eight ; 
 ■a fandy bottom, 12th. At daylight we made fail and ran for the 
 harbour ; but the breeze failing, and the tide againft us, it was one 
 o'clock in the afternoon before we reached the entrance. When 
 nearly there, a pilot-boat came alongfide, in which was the head har- 
 bour-mafler, who took charge of the fliip. In running in we gave 
 the fort of Santa Cruz a berth of half a cable's length ; keeping 
 the Ifle de Cobras, which is ftrongly fortified, about two points 
 upon the larboard bow, till the Benedi(fline monaftery, which is large 
 and white, appeared clear of its north fide ; then hauling up towards 
 the fliipping, we came to with our fmall bower in feven fathoms 
 water, and moored with a kedge to the northward, the monaftery 
 bearing S. W. by S. and Iflc de Enchados N. by W. As foon as ^\c 
 had anchored, a gward-boat, with the proper officers, came alongfide^ 
 in order to prevent fmuggling, and watch that no perfon went from 
 the fhip unaccompanied by a foldier. It is remarked, that the go- 
 vernment in this colony ails towards flrangers w ith the moll jealous 
 cai::tion; the captain, obliged to land when we firfi: entered the port, 
 was attended with a military officer from fort Santa Cruz. This 
 evening fetting in witli heavy rain, thunder, and lightning, we ran 
 our cledric coiidudors to the mafl-hcads, a precaution ncccfiary 
 ivhen within the tropics.
 
 Nov.] TO TIIE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 31 
 
 13th. Being now fafcly nnoorcd, after a paffagc of five thoufand 
 miles, through the mod malignant climates, it is proper to paufe, 
 while we with grateful hearts adore the goodncfs of God, whofe 
 watchful providence has been confpicuoufly difplayed in our favour ; 
 preferv'ing us in health, and guiding us in fafety to a port where 
 we can procure whatever rcfrefhments we want forthc comfijrt of 
 the reft of our pafTage. Bcfides thefc motives, an additional caufc 
 for thankfulnefs is, that the hearts of the miffionarics fcem as much 
 as ever devoted to the Redeemer's fervice, and their jninds as ardently 
 intent as ever to promote his glory. 
 
 This day being the fabbath, the incumbent duties were obfcrved 
 in the fame manner as at fea ; the officer of the guard-boat attended, 
 conduding himfelf with much propriety, and at the clofe of the wor- 
 fhip cxpreffcd his approbation. His curiofity, however, was much- 
 excited, and he feemed quite at a lofs to know what kind of people w& 
 were ; but either through modeftv', or a fear of offending, declined 
 making any inquiries : afterwards, when more familiar, he faid that 
 he never before faw people behave fo peaceably and foberly on the firft 
 day after their arrival ; the reverfe, fvvearing, nolfe, and drunkcn- 
 nefs, being generally the pracflice. 
 
 ] 4th. Since the captain was on fhore on our firft arrival, no in- 
 dividual was allowed to go from the fhip till a further examination 
 by the fuperior officers, whofc villt we were obliged patiently to 
 wait ; and as the time of their coming was uncertain, we employed 
 the day on the neceffary duty of the Ihip till about four in the after- 
 jioon, when there came, in the mafter-attcndant's boat, fome mili- 
 tary officers, the chief juftice, a phyfician, the captain of a Ihip, 
 and an interpreter. Their bufmefs feemed to be trifling, repeating 
 only the queftions which had been put to the captain at the firft : 
 however, though their fcrivener was prefent, what they had now 
 done was not fufficient ; the captain, myfelf, and the fecond officer, 
 were ordered to attend at the viceroy's palace, there to anfwer to the 
 iame ftring of interrogations, viz. Whence wc came ? whither
 
 32 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [17^6. 
 
 bound ? the nature of our voyage ? and what political news we had 
 to communicate ? When the whole was noted, duplicates, written, 
 and figned by vis, we were informed that the papers would be fent 
 to Lilbon, and that fuch fcrutinies were the common pradlicc of the 
 colony. 
 
 This ceremony being over, we had leave to go on fliore when 
 w'e pleafed, themfelves taking care always to put a foldier in the boat 
 before flie put from alongfide ; and as foon as we landed, another 
 picked us up and followed us through the town, abiding clofe by us 
 till we returned again to the boat. From Monday till Saturday we 
 were employed refitting our rigging,, watering our fliip, and pro- 
 curing live ftock, wine, &c. for fea ftore ; feveral forts of feeds and 
 plants were alfo got on board, fuch as it was fuppofed might flourifli 
 and be ufeful at Otaheite. 
 
 On Saturday the 19th, at four in the morning, we unmoored, and 
 with the mafter-attendant on board took the fliip nearer to the har- 
 bour's mouth, that w^e might be in readinefs to embrace the firft 
 leading breeze to fail. 
 
 About noon the fea wind fet in with a thick fog ; in the afternoon 
 both boats were employed to bring from the fliore a variety of things 
 which were flill unavoidably there. 
 
 20th. At fevcn In the morning we weighed with a light breeze in 
 our fa\'our ; but by the time we got abreail: of fort Santa Cruz it 
 changed againft us: however, we kept plying tOswindward, and after 
 wc had made a few tacks, the mafter- attendant took his leave. At 
 three P. M.. we palTed between Razor ifland and Round ifland, when 
 a frefli breeze fpringing up, wc were very foon out of fight of land. 
 
 The city of Rio de Janeiro is at prefent the capital of Brazil, and, 
 ■fmcc the difcovery of the diamond mines in its vicinity, lias been the 
 refidcncc of the viceroy. It has for its defence cannon planted upon 
 the t(;p.s of the eminences, which command its entrance ; befides 
 three or four regular forts ; l^ut none of thcfe, taken fnigl}', can be 
 cftccmcd very ftrong, except Santa Cruz and Lozia, as they lie con- 

 
 Nov.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 33 
 
 fidcrably diftant from each other : therefore, though gutis may be fccii 
 whatever way you turn your eyes, yet the place is not in rcahty fb 
 well fortified as it appears to be. 
 
 The inhabitants are a mixture of Portuguefe, mulattoes, and ne- 
 groes, and their number in the city and fuburbs cannot exceed two 
 hundred thoufand. The churches, monafteries, convents, the vice- 
 roy's palace, the hofpital, and a few private houfes, have a good ap- 
 pearance. The flrccts are narrow, but ftraight and regular. Their 
 windows and the upper part of their doors being latticed with rods 
 laid acrofs each other, and clofe fhut all day, a flranger walking along, 
 and feeing their women and children peep through thcfe gratings, 
 might fuppofe their dwellings fo many prifons. 
 
 The go\ernment is fo flriclly cautious, that the inhabitants can have 
 no intcrcourfe whatever with ilrangcrs without leave firfl obtained 
 from the viceroy : a letter of credit which Captain Wilfon had, ad- 
 drefled to a refpedlable merchant, afforded one inftance. On receipt 
 of the letter he cxpreffcd his rcadinefs to advance what fums the cap- 
 tain might have occafion for, and to affift him in any other way; but 
 before he could oblige him, he faid, he mufl wait on the viceroy with 
 the letter. 
 
 This capital appears to exceed all popilli places in the parade of 
 y religion. At the corner of every ftreet is a figure of our Saviour and 
 the Virgin Mary placed in a niche, or kind of cupboard, with a cur- 
 tain and glafs window before it ; in the night, candles are lighted ; and 
 licre the people ftop to addrefs their devotions, and the whole night 
 long the voice of their chanting to thefe images may be heard. E^ en 
 the common beggar makes a trade of religion, by carrying a little 
 crucifix at his breafl, which 1 fuppofe he may buy for a pcnnv ; at 
 this the poorer fort crofs themfelves, and the beggar blcirmg them, 
 mufl be paid for his benediction as well as the pope. 
 
 The cftabliflicd port charges paid by all mcrchant-fhips are, on 
 etttcrlng 3/. 12^., and CiS. 6 J. a day while at anchor; bcfidl?s this, 
 foreign vcfTcls mufl pay an interpreter commillion for his bulTncfs 
 
 F
 
 U ' ?IRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796. 
 
 with go"^ ernnient, and on what he purchafes ; however, provifions arc 
 very cheap. Rum, which they make in the colony, is of a tolerable 
 quality; and their port wine, meliorated by palling through the tro- 
 pical climates, is allowed to excel in goodnefs. 
 
 On entering this port, after a long paflage acrofs the Atlantic ocean, 
 the vaftnefs of the profped fills the mind with the moft pleafmg fen- 
 fations. Faffing the narrow entrance between two lofty hills, the har- 
 bour fiiddenly widening flaews like an extenfive lake, where on diffe- 
 rent parts lie many fcattered illands. On the left, the city, with the 
 fortifications and whitewafhed walls, prefents itfelf ir^ a ftriking 
 manner, with fliipping at anchor, and boats bringing fupplies from 
 .every quarter. Beyond all, to the north-weft, as far as the eye can 
 reach, a range of lofty mountains ereft their rugged tops : in their 
 bofoms, perhaps, thoufands of human beings are doomedj in fearch 
 af gold and diamonds, to Ipend their days in mlfery. 
 
 The Ohfervations of the M'tfjionanes at their Entrance and Stay at 
 
 Rio Janeiro. 
 
 ON approaching the harbour the tops of the mountains were hid 
 in clouds, but the hills near the fliore covered with fruit-trees to their 
 rery tops. Several fortified Iflands w^ere around us ; and on the main 
 wc faw a magnificent aqucdurt of about fifty arches, extending from 
 one mountain to another. Here we began to obfervc marks of their 
 fupcrftltion, for the crofs was ereded on the tops of the hills, and on 
 their forts. On the Lord's day, the Portuguefe and Indians, who 
 were our attendants on board, looked on very attentively, and be- 
 haved very ferioufly, during our worfhipi though unacquainted with 
 the language ; w hilft thofe who remained in the boat, though it was 
 Sunday, amufed thcmfchcs ^\ ith cards.
 
 Nov.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. ' 35 
 
 A large party of us going on fliorc, \vc had leave to fee the town, 
 accompanied by two officers, who treated us with much civility. 
 On landing we were fhocked with the fight of a poor fla'\'e worn out 
 with difcafe and labour, advancing with feeble crawl to the water's 
 edge; and fliortly after beheld a fccnc difgufting to humanity, a 
 cargo of human beings expofed for fale, naked, in the market-place: 
 whilft others, in companies of fix or feven chained together, were 
 traverfing the ftrcets with burdens : w^ have fecn their mafters flog 
 them like horfes or dogs, fo that our eyes have been filled with tears 
 at the fight. When fliall this barbarous traffic come to an end ? 
 
 The flreets were full of fhops of every kind ; the druggiils' and 
 filverfmiths' made the noblefc appearance. We obfcrved a large refcr- 
 voir of water, with three fountains difcharging into it, very fweet, 
 and convenient for the fhipping. Peruvian bark was is. 5 J. per 
 pound, cochineal lo;-. We wifhed to procure fome of the cochineal 
 plants, but did not fucceed ; but we got various tropical feeds and 
 plants at a hofpitable cottager's, a little dillance from the city. 
 
 The viceroy's garden was beautifully interfperfed with oranges, 
 lemons, limes, and a number of other trees. There we faw a cro- 
 codile fpouting water, furrounded with curious fhell-work ; and in 
 another part, a boy holding a tortoifc, from whofe mouth IfTued a 
 copious flream. The view of the harbour from one of the terraces 
 Is magnificent. The fummcr-houfcs were adorned with beautiful 
 paintings reprefenting the working the diamond mines, and the 
 making fugar, rum, and other produce df the country. 
 
 We next vifited the palace. The colonel commandant and his lady 
 fliewed us the greatcfl polltenefs, and his lady was peculiarly atten-. 
 tivc to our wives ; and forry we were that we could make no acknow- 
 ledgments in return ; efpecially when we law their rooted fuperlli- 
 tions, beads and crucifixes hung about their necks ; and the crofs 
 and their faints were at the corner of every flreet, and before their 
 houfes : to thefe they bow and crofs themfelves as they pafs. Indeed 
 they feem funk in idolatry. The number of their prlcfts is immenfe.
 
 33 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i7()(5. 
 
 The town feemed not bigger than Briflol, and can hafdly contain 
 more than two hundred thoufand Inhabitants. 
 
 Our attention was arrefted by a grand proceflion of priefts, nuns, 
 mourners, &c. entering one of their cathedrals, which was hung with 
 black, and blazing with lamps. The prayers were chanted, and 
 choruffes fung, accompanied by a band of mufic. The fight afflicted 
 us ; to behold fuch external pomp of worflilp, and to difcover no 
 trace of the pure undefiled religion of Jefus. 
 
 They are very jealous of flrangers on account of their diamond 
 mines, where fo many miferable Africans are yearly facrificed. We 
 palTed the military hofpital, on a healthy fpot about a mile from the 
 city ; but I did not vifit it, fays the furgeon, left I might carry fome 
 infedion on board. Not far diftant, in a beautiful valley, is the 
 viceroy's magnificent chapel ; and they are now erecting a large cathe- 
 dral near it, where a multitude of flaves were employed ; and to fliare 
 in the merit of the work, they informed us feveral youths of opulent 
 families affifted, raifing a vaft fuperftrud:ure on a fandy foundation. 
 I retired to my cabin in the evening, praying that the Lord would 
 fend hither his precious gofpel with demonftration of his Spirit and 
 power. 
 
 Upon the whole, we had every reafon to be fatisfied with our re- 
 ception, and embraced the opportunity of a fliip failing for Europe t» 
 convey intelligence to our friends. 
 
 Though the following letter addrefled by the miflionaries to the, 
 directors has been publiflied, it properly and defcrvedly claims a part. 
 in this narrative ; and with it we fliall clofc the tranfad.ions at Rio 
 Janeiro,
 
 Nov.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 37 
 
 " On board the Du-F, in the harbour of Rio d'; Janeiro, 
 " (Joall of" Brazil, South-America, Nov. 16, ITijC. 
 
 " Dear and honoured Brethren, 
 
 " We think it our duty to inform you, we arrived at this place 
 " on Saturday, 12th inilant, after a paffage of fcvcii weeks and one 
 " day. We cannot fufficicntly acknowledge the great goodncfs of 
 " Almighty God, in the fignal bleffings we have been favoured with, 
 " iince our departure from our country and dear connexions therein.. 
 " We have not experienced one day of real bad weather fuice we were 
 " launched upon the bofom of the great deep : winds and waves, in 
 " the hands of our God, have been propitious. The fiery heat ot the 
 " fun, in paiTmg beneath its diredcft rays, hath been kindly checked 
 " by intervening clouds or cooling gales ; fo that we have crofled 
 " thus far through the burning zone, without feeling thofe inconve- 
 " niences that we were naturally led to expert. Our vifitations of 
 *' ficknefs have been partial and tranfient ; few having been affiltled, 
 '• and thofe, through divine goodnefs, fpeedily recovered : Mrs. Eyre 
 " excepted, who, through weaknefs and infirmity incident on age, 
 " has enjoyed but little health nnce our departure from England; 
 " however, from the time of our arrival in this harbour, flie appears 
 " greatly revived. The abundant fupply of every nccefl'ary, fur- 
 " nilhed by our liberal friends, hath not futfered us to feel the fmalleft 
 ** want. Our attention has been chiefly directed to the reading of the 
 " accounts of the iflands of the South Sea, and acquiring fome know- 
 " ledge of the Otaheitean language, from the providential means put 
 " into our hands; other fludies of a fcientlfic nature we have not 
 " been able to pay general application to. The worfliip of the Moft 
 •' High has been duly and conflantly attended, without any omiflion 
 " but when necefTity or prudence made it w arrantablc. Whate'^er 
 " fpiritual trials we individually have fuffered, moments of refrefh- 
 *' ment iiom God and our Saviour Jefus Chrifl have more than
 
 5S FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796. 
 
 " compcnfated. Harmony and concord continue among us as a body 
 " engaged in one common caufe. We look forward to what remains 
 •*' of our voyage and future operations with that concern our peculiar 
 " fituation demands. Our infufficiency we feel, and where our 
 " flrength lieth wc know. We humbly hope and truft that the hand 
 '" of God will continue with us, by his- Spirit to dire(fl us, and by 
 " his power to guard us. We give ourfelves up to God, through 
 " Jefus Chrift our Lord, and defire to lie placid in his arms. 
 
 *' Dear brethren, the vsliole body of miffionaries, as the heart of 
 " one man, prefent their Chriftian love to the body of dired:ors, the 
 " fociety, and all true lovers of Chrift and his Gofpel. We pray the 
 *' continuance of an intereft in your fervent prayers for us, and for 
 " our undertaking ; that w€ may acquit ourfelves as men, faithful 
 ■" to the caufe in which we. are engaged, and be rendered mighty 
 *' inftruments in the hands of God for the converfion of the heathens 
 *' of the South Sea : fo fliall iniquity ftop its mouth, the wife and 
 *' prudent in their own eyes be afhamed, and the mighty power of 
 " God be difplayed in the eyes of the world, by his choofmg the foolifli 
 *' things of the world to confound the wife, the weak things of the 
 *' world to confound the things which arc mighty ; the bafe things 
 *' of the world, and things which are defpifed, and things which are 
 *' not, to bring to nought things that are. 
 
 ** We remain, dear and honoured brethren, 
 
 " Your brethren in the gofpel of Jefus Chrift, 
 
 " The whole body of miffionaries. 
 
 ** John Jefferson, Sccretary.**^
 
 Nov.} TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 69 
 
 CHAPTER r. 
 
 Departure from Rio Ja?ictro, jill our Arrival at Otaheite. 
 
 WE now proceeded on our voyage, in hopes of effe^ling it by the 
 way of Cape Horn, which was our original intention. The 
 captain had laid in a frefli ftorc of fuch provifions as this place af- 
 forded, with fugar, wine, and whatever might be neccflary in the 
 long run before us. 
 
 20th. Lord's day. Brothers Eyre and Jefferfon preached. We 
 had bmt little wind, and drifted out with the tide. In leaving this 
 harbour, and again launching into the deep, we thought on all the 
 mercies of our God, who had dealt fo wonderfully with us, and 
 protected us hitherto in fafety through the pathlefs ocean : we could, 
 with humble dependence, trufl him for the future. 
 
 24th. We begin to find it colder as we run to the fouth ; the at- 
 mofphere, day and night, is free from clouds ; the breeze is mode- 
 rate ; we move as on a mill-pond, enjoying all the bleffings ol life. 
 O may the goodnefs of the Lord lead us to repentance, watchfulnefs, 
 and unfeigned love of the brethren ! Thefe favourable commence- 
 ments, however, foon changed ; he Ihall defcribe who felt them.. 
 " 20th. We had a very pleafant day, and this evening I was dc- 
 <' lighted to fee the fliip crowded down with fails, and going fwiftly 
 " before the wind with the ftarry heavens over us. About eleven 
 '• o'clock I was waked out of flcep, and much alarmed with the noife 
 " on deck. I hurried on my clothes, and ran up the ladder, and to 
 " my great furprife found the fhip under her bare poles. The iky, 
 " which had been fo ferene and bright, was covered with black 
 *' clouds ; the lightning came in flalbes fo quick and vivid, as took
 
 AO FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. [1796. 
 
 " away my cye-fight for a time. Blcflcd be God ! it did not laft 
 *' more than two hours, -vshcn the ftorm abated. See what the Lord 
 " can do ! ' Let all the earth fear the Lord ; let all the inhabitants 
 " thereof fland in awe of him. He gathereth the waters of the fca 
 *' together as an heap, he layeth up the depths as in his treafurc- 
 " houfe. Oh, how great is thy goodnefs, which thou haft laid up 
 ^' for them that fear thee !' 
 
 " Amldft the roaring of the fca 
 " My foul Hill hangs her all on thee ; 
 " Thy conftant love, thy faithful care, 
 *' Is all that fares me from dcfpair." 
 
 After being two months from England, and running fix thoufand 
 miles, this is the firft time we have experienced a contrary wind. 
 
 But to return to Mr. Wilfon's journal. 
 
 During the firft eight days nothing remarkable occurred. On the 
 29th we obferved in lat. 34" 50' S. long. 49° SC W. ; had a fine 
 breeze wefterly and clear weather ; towards the evening it veered to 
 the north, a gentle gale and a fmooth fca : but thcfe favourable cir- 
 cumftances we forefaw would be of fhort continuance : to the fouth- 
 ward black clouds were rifmg faft, and flying with great velocity over 
 our heads in a dircdlion quite contrary to the way the wind at prcfent 
 blew. This jarring of the elements we confidcred as a fure prog- 
 noftlc of an approaching ftorm ; therefore the captain ordered the 
 fmali fails to be taken in, alfo afmglc reef in the topfails. Still a gentle 
 gale continued as before till near midnight, when we were attacked 
 by a moft violent fquall, with a deluge of rain and fmart thunder and 
 lightning, the combined force of \\ hich obliged us to haul our forcfail 
 clofe up, and furl every other fail : happily it foon fubfidcd, but con- 
 tinued not long moderate ; a ftrong gale fet in at fouth, and the fca 
 running high all the following day, moft of the milTionarics were 
 Dgain ^ifitcd with the fea-ficknefs.
 
 Dec] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 41 
 
 December ift. The gale moderated, and the fea falling greatly, 
 a few of the fick recovered ; betwixt decks were cleared and dried, 
 the Ihip put in order, and preparations made to encounter fuch {lorms 
 as we might now expeft. The cow had fuffcred much in the late 
 gale from repeated falls ; and as no hay had been got at Rio Janicro, 
 on account of the rainy reafon, the little we brought from home was 
 now expended, therefore no alternative remained but to kill the poor 
 lean animal : this was done accordingly, but with relu<5lance, as her 
 milk had been very ferviceable to the women and children ; we found 
 her big with calf, which made her more regretted. In the courfe of 
 the night we experienced another fmart gale, which, though not quite 
 fo violent as the laft, was, like it, attended with rain, thunder, and 
 lightning. 
 
 2d. At daylight we had better weather, and the fea was rcmark- 
 'ably fmooth, but very much difcoloured, the caufc of which pheno- 
 menon is generally afcribcd to the outfet of the tide from the great 
 river of Rio de la Plata ; we founded, but found no bottom with one 
 himdred fathom of line. At noon our latitude, by obfcrvation, was 
 38' 3' S. long. 50° 15' W. Towards the clofe of the day the Iky- 
 again put on a gloomy afpecH:, and from a moderate breeze at S. by 
 W. the wind veered to S. W. by W. the gale incrcafing, and the 
 fea rifing very fall. 
 
 3d. In the morning the fea ran exceeding high, and the wind 
 blew a complete ftorm, which reduced us to a clofc-rcefed main-top- 
 fail and forefall. Several of our live flock died, either by the cold 
 or the fpray of the fea, lb that we were in danger of lofaig the 
 whole of this invaluable prefervative of health. Not only the greater 
 part of the miflionaries were fea-fick, but fome of our feamen alfo. 
 Mrs. Eyre, already exhaulled by continued illnefs, fecmcd unable 
 long to fullain thefe greater trials ; and refpe<^lng thofe who were 
 not fick, they, and likewife the crew, felt the uncomfortable effects 
 of fuch bad wxather. Being thus fituated. the captain was appre- 
 
 G
 
 42 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179^ 
 
 henilve that in pcrfevering in our endeavours to double Cape Horn^ 
 our raw, unfeafoned company of landmen, women, and children, 
 might tall vid:ims to the repeated ftorms and colder weather, which 
 we might expert to meet with in the attempt : alfo, after doing our 
 beft, the certainty of getting round, in our circumftances, was doubt- 
 ful, as in the cafe of Bligh and others, whofe efforts, after long 
 ftruggles, proved in vain. 
 
 Therefore the captain, after deliberately weighing thefe and the 
 connecRied circumftances, relinquiflied a plan, which to execute re- 
 quired a fliip's crew of hardy failors, unaccompanied by tender w^o- 
 men and children, and adopted the refolution of going the eaftern 
 pailage ; that is, to pafs a few degrees fbuth of the Cape of Good 
 Hope, to fail to the fouthward of the fouth cape of New Holland 
 and New Zealand, keeping in the track of the wellerly winds till 
 near the meridian of Otaheite, and then to fleer to the northward for 
 that ifland. 
 
 At noon we obferved in lat. 39° 2' S. long. 50° W. Immediately 
 afterwards we bore away^ fetting what fail the fliip could bear ; 
 and this we certainly had good reafon to do, coniidering that before 
 we could reach Otaheite by the flraighteft courfe, we muft run not 
 lefs than fourteen thoufand miles ; whereas, from our prefent flation, 
 to go by way of Cape Horn, the diftancc did not exceed feven thou- 
 sand miles ; and I am perfiiaded, that to fome on board, the dcfire 
 to fail round the world was more than a counterpoife to the difH- 
 cultics which might attend our paf?age round that cape. But fince it. 
 is proper, that in all cafes felf-gratification ought to give place ta 
 the beft devifed means of obtaining the principal ends of our employ- 
 ment, fo now all were fully iatisfied that the late adopted meafures 
 were for the btft. 
 
 The fea running tremendoufly high, we were apprehenfive of 
 being pooped by it, or othervvife receiving damage, therefore Ihaped 
 <j>ur courfe right before it, lleering N. E. by K. and E. N. E. till it
 
 Dec] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 43 
 
 gradually became fmoothcr. In the courfc of the firft four days wc 
 ran fix hundred and forty miles by our log, and were then detained 
 for a while by eaflerly winds. 
 
 But to particularize the various occurrences of fo long a paiTagc, 
 where the objcds which prefent themfelves have already been largely 
 treated of by men of ability and fkill in natural hillory, would 
 afford but little entertainment, and tedious repetitions of winds and 
 weather only tire the patience ; therefore fliall deem it fufficicnt to 
 notice briefly the progrefs we made from time to time. Our mifTionary 
 journals will fill the chafm. 
 
 December 5th. Our religious exercifes have hitherto not been 
 interrupted ; wc have maintained the regulated daily fervices between 
 decks when wc could not affemble on the quarter. Tliis day we met 
 our dear friends in England at their hour of prayer, and fent up our 
 petitions in union with tlieirs to the throne of grace for the fuccefs of 
 all mifTionary labours. 
 
 6th. Frefli breezes : ran eight or nine knots an hour. How great 
 are his mercies ! 
 
 8th. A great head fea ; faw feveral whales playing around ; foirc- 
 tlmes they approached very near, clofe under the item, when wc 
 could obferve them diftinftly, as they came to the furface to breathe, 
 throwing up the water to a a aft height with a tremendous noife. 
 We were flruck with awe and folemnlty — How wonderful and ma- 
 nifold are thy works, O God ! Heaven, earth, and fea, declare thy 
 glory : " Let every thing which hath breath praife the Lord." 
 
 The climate here, though advancing to the midft of fummer, ap- 
 peared to us cold as in England in the midfl of winter. 
 
 The gale ftill blew from the wefl with unabated violence: an awful 
 fea running mountains high ; the clouds hanging low, thick, and 
 gloomy ; the fliip fcudding before the wind with furprifmg eafe and 
 fwiftnefs, and fhipping Acry little water, confidcring the grcatnefs of 
 the fea. At thofe times we truly beheld the wonders of tlie Lord in 
 the great deep. The flilp fomctimcs feemed hid between two lofty 
 
 G 2
 
 44 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [irgS. 
 
 mountains of water, and then elevated to the immenfe fummit. Theic 
 fights of the marvellous w^orks of our God exalted our ideas of his 
 greatnefs and glory, and increafed our joy and praife ; alTurcd that this 
 awful God is our God, and all his divine perfections engaged in our 
 behalf. We have fometimes fat on the deck with facred pleafure and 
 compofure, viewing the towering billows on every fide, fome following 
 us with their foaming tops, and feeming to threaten our deftruftion ; 
 but inftead of doing us any harm, only pufhing us on the fafter to the 
 haven where we would be. We were unable to celebrate the Lord's 
 fupper through the agitation of the veflel, and turned our ufual fervice 
 into a meeting of prayer between decks; there confined from the fight 
 of the fun, and the fea making often a way over the fhip, the Lord 
 made up every want by vouchfafing his gracious prefencc — we could 
 adopt the language of the poet : 
 
 Thy flaining grace can cheer 
 
 The dungeon where we dwell ; 
 'Tis paradife if thou art there. 
 
 If thou depart 'tis hell. 
 
 Though by changing our courfe we fliall lengthen our voyage 
 {even thoufand miles, and have two hundred and eleven degrees of 
 longitude to run, yet the fpced with which we advance is amazing ; 
 in the laft two days, fince Friday at midnight, we have run by the 
 log near five hundred miles. The Lord is fending us about as he did 
 his Ifrael of old, and no doubt for wife ends. Could we have gone 
 round Cape Horn, we might probably have reached the place of our 
 dcftination much fooner : but we are fhort-fightcd creatures, and in 
 the beft hands ; let his will be done, who knows how moft fiifcly to 
 lead us through the deep as through a wildernefs. 
 
 The immenfe fhoals of fifhes around us have often amufcd and 
 aftpnilhed us ; fome larger marching in great pomp, followed by a train 
 of fmallcr, and approaching clofe to the fliip's fides ; the flying-filh
 
 Dec] to THE SOUTM-SJ' A ISLANDS. 45 
 
 rlfing like a flock ot' birds out oi" the water, and often fallnig on briard; 
 one fitlecn inches long flew dirccflly againft ovir bell, and vvas taken : 
 they were very good eating. Thoufands of birds alfo, about the fizc 
 of pigeons, flew around us. 
 
 20th, We rc-crofTcd the meridian of London, and began counting 
 our longitvidc eaflward ; and on the 24th that of tlie Cape of Good 
 Hope, in the latitude or track of 10"' 2o' S. with a fine gale wcfterly 
 driving us along at the rate of eight or nine miles an hour. 
 
 24th. Chriftmas eve : fpent, fays W. P. a comfortable evening 
 with my mefTmates, brother Shelly, brother Hodges and his wife ; 
 had a good cake of our own making, and a very nice difli of chocolate. 
 My mind was deeply imprcffcd with the remembrance of deareft ab- 
 fcnt friends whom I reprefented fitting round their fire-fide, and 
 faying, Ah, poor fouls, where are they now ! 
 
 25th. After a fcrmon from Ifaiah, ix. 0. the Lord's fuppcr wa§ 
 adminiftcred : blelTed be God, I found it a very comfortable feafbn. 
 
 20th. Fine weather and brilTc gales ; we failed two hundred and 
 forty miles the laft twenty-four hours. 
 
 29th. Obferved an cclipfc of the fun of about three hours con- 
 tinuance ; three parts being obfcurcd, it produced a perceptible dark- 
 nefs. 
 
 The miflionaries were now applying themfelves to the Otaheitean 
 language, the moft diligent giving pleafmg proofs of their defire and 
 aptncfs to acquire it. A part of each day was alfo appropriated to 
 reading the Rev. Mr, Grcatheed's account of the South-Sea iflands : 
 this they ftyled Miflionary Geography ; from thence deriving con- 
 fiderable knowledge : their minds alio became more excrcifcd, and a 
 difference of opinion gradually increafed concerning the propriety of 
 their feparating, and which group appeared the moft eligible and fafe 
 to fettle In : fome preferred the Friendly Ifles, others Otaheite. John 
 Harris alone was for the Marquefas ; he had long ago made that 
 choice, and flill remained unfliaken in his refolutlon, defiring only to 
 have one or two to accompany hini ; and for that purpofe was now
 
 46 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1796. 
 
 iifing his intcreft with the young men, few of whom as yet feemcd 
 inchned to fettle at the Marquefas. In confequence of the probabiUty 
 of fuch a fcparation taking place, a meeting of the whole body of 
 miffionaries was held, when after a long converfation, it was moved, 
 " That eight pcrfons and the chairman (the captain) be chofen to 
 " draw up a code of church government for the future condu6l of 
 " their little fociety, together with certain religious principles, to be 
 *•' figned by every individual." — Agreed. The fame day the following 
 perfons were chofen by ballot to compofe the committee: viz. Bowel), 
 Buchanan, Cover, Henry, Jefferfon, Lewis, Main, and Shelly. 
 
 At another meeting it was moved, " That two days in the week, 
 " Tuefdays and Thurfdays, an hour and half each, be appointed for 
 " the difcuffion of fome doctrinal part of God's word. The text of 
 " fcripture to be appointed by a moderator, chofen out of the body, 
 *' who fliall publicly declare the text at leaft two days before the time 
 *' of difcuffion ; the members to fpeak in rotation, and not to exceed 
 " a quarter of an hour each, and to divide the text under proper 
 " heads, which fliall be committed unto paper, and a copy Qf the 
 *' fame to be delivered to the moderator." — Agreed. Mr. Lewis 
 chofen firll moderator. The defign of this plan was to improve the 
 young men in the method of arranging their thoughts, and to excite 
 them to a more diligent fcarch into the fciptures. It was moved alfo, 
 at the fame meeting, " That Meflrs. Henry and Kelfo do, in conjunc- 
 " tiun with the ordained minifters, join in the regular difpenfation of 
 ** the word of God." — This was likewife agreed to. 
 
 Refpediing the health of both miffionaries and crew, wc may all 
 (two or three excepted) fay that we have enjoyed that bleffmg abun- 
 dantly. Mr. Clode was lately attacked with a fcvcre fever, and for 
 fome time delirious, but now in a way of recovery ; and Mr. Bucha- 
 nan, having fuffered continually by fea-ficknefs, was at prcfent brought 
 very low, and for fome days confined to his bed, by a painful colli vc 
 complaint, which long rcfiiled the power of medicine ; while, his get- 
 ting vvorfe c\ cry day increafcd the concern all on board felt, through
 
 Jan.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 47 
 
 fear of lofing this humble and devoted miffionary. But to our great 
 joy, December 29th, at the time when we thought hun expiring, he 
 obtained rehcf, and afterwards gradually recovered. His happy expe- 
 rience of God's love, and joy of hope through all his iUncfs, was a 
 lingular comfort and encouragement to all the brethren. 
 
 January ift, 1797. Little did we apprehend on this day laft year 
 what was the decree of the Lord concerning us. We have now failed 
 twelve thoufand miles. 
 
 Come, my foul, a year is gone. 
 And thyfelf may'll truly moan ; 
 Small the fruit to God is found. 
 Too much like the barren ground. 
 
 This new year may be my laft. 
 Former years are gone and paft ; 
 Come, my foul, arifc and pray, 
 Trim thy lamp this new-year's day. 
 
 2d. We were now making rapid advances towards the defired- 
 ifland ; but little remarkable occurred. — ^The aquatic birds, which had 
 daily vifited us in great numbers fmce wc came into this fea, feemed 
 now to have left us, fo tliat for fome days we hardly faw one of any 
 kind. Whales were playing round the fhip, and it is probable that, 
 had they been objcdls of our voyage, we might have caught fome of' 
 the many we faw. There were feveral of the brethren who took 
 great delight in (landing with harpoons in their hands, watching op- 
 portunities to -ftrike the porpoifes that were ufually fporting under the 
 bows, and one day Mr. Smith had the fuccefs to llrike one, the blub- 
 ber of which produced four gallons of good oil. 
 
 By the middle of January the committee of eight had nearly finlflied 
 the articles of faith and rules of church government. As yet no ferious 
 difference of fentimcnt had arifen among the miffionaries : one now
 
 48 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [17()7. 
 
 V.-' 
 
 commenced regarding thofe points of docflrine which have too often, 
 and with too great afperity, divided the church of the living God. 
 It had been the great objcdl with the dirediors to prevent as much us 
 poffible diverfity of opinion among the brethren, being confclous on 
 whichever fide the truth might be found in the abflrufer points of 
 theological tenets, that all difputes among the teachers themfelvcs 
 lliould be guarded with the greatcfl: precaution. 
 
 As the directors held the doftrinal articles of the church of England 
 in the fenfe ufually termed Calvinifiiic, and in correfpondence with 
 the opinion of their brethren in Scotland, contained in the Aficmbly's 
 catechifm ; it was an original decifion, that none fliould be fcnt out 
 as miffionarles, who did not make a clear and explicit confeffion of 
 their faith, agreeable to this rule. We had every rcafon to believe 
 that all the miffionarics were of one mind ; but it now appeared, on 
 the difcuffion, that two of the thirty had entertained principles diffe- 
 rent from the reft, which occafioned fomc debate. The general fenfe 
 of the body was, that it would be injurious to the work to continue 
 thofe as fellow-helpers whofe difference of fentiment from their bre- 
 thren might produce unhappy effects among the heathen. However, 
 after a variety of conferences on the fubjeft, conduced with the 
 grcateft calmnefs, the two who had differed from the reft, acknow- 
 ledged that they had received convlftion from the arguments of their 
 brethren, admitted the impropriety of their conduct, and were ac- 
 cordingly reftored to fellowfliip, and as much honoured and rcfpcded 
 as ever. We remark this as a moft happy trait of Chrlftian con- 
 fidence ; and none have fliewn thcmfelves more faithful to the caufe, 
 nor has the fmallcft difference fince arifcn between them on the fubjedl. 
 
 29th. Wc paffed the meridian of the fouth cape of New Holland ; 
 and on the 14th of February were thirty-two leagues to the fouth- 
 ward of the fouth cape of New Zealand. On the 15th wc were nearly 
 antipodes to our friends in London. The day following a fca broke 
 againft our ftcrn, d-%ed one of the windows to pieces, and fpoilcd 
 fcveral books in the cabin.
 
 Feb.] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 4() 
 
 i;th. We met with as heavy a ftorm from the caftward as any wc 
 had before experienced ; the fea around us ran mountalnoufly, and the 
 rain poured heavily upon us for about eight hours. HovveAcr, as wc 
 were all in good health, the cffctls of it were but little felt. This 
 was in lat. 31° 30'' S. and long. 209" 30'' E. 
 
 The fenfations of the miffionaries on this occafion their own journals 
 will bell tell. This was the mpfl fevere and awful llorm we had yet 
 experienced. The fea ran mountains high, but our little and incom- 
 parable bark, with which our God hath bleflcd us, lay to under her 
 main ftayfail, and mounted over the waves like a duck with feathers." 
 We were bleffed with a calm and ferene ftate of mind, and enabled 
 to caft our care upon God, which we did in a fweet prayer- meeting 
 between decks. In the evening the wind died away, and the lovely 
 ftars Ihewed their faces. Appointed Tuefday next to fign the articles, 
 and obferve a day of public thankfgiving for the fignal and wonderful 
 mercies we had received. 
 
 It is remarkable, that through the voyage the Lord has ufually fent 
 us moderate weather on the fabbath days, fo that our folemnities have 
 been feldom interrupted. 
 
 21ft. The articles of faith and rules of church government being 
 completed and approved by the whole of the brethreti, they, at a 
 meeting this day, figned the fame, and held a day of thankfgiving. 
 A fcparatlon becoming now more and more probable, they began 
 teaching each other the little handicraft arts they were mailers of, 
 fuppofmg fuch might be ferviceable when they parted. Dr. Gillham 
 gave like wife le^lures upon a prepared fkeleton of the human body, 
 and inilrudcd them in the ufe of the medicines. 
 
 This afternoon we experienced a remarkable interference of Divine 
 Providence in our favour. The pitch-kettle being placed on the fire 
 by the carpenter whilft calking the decks, the man who was left 
 in care of it fufFercd it to boil over : immediately it blazed up with 
 furprlfmg fury ; he had, however, the prefcnce of mind to lift it off 
 the fire, and prevent the dreaded conflagration. Though the caboufff 
 
 H
 
 50 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE, [i-79/^ 
 
 was fb dry, and the forefail hanging down over it, which muii have 
 inftantly communicated the flames to the rigging, through the good- 
 nefs of God no harm was done, and the fire put out in an inilant. 
 O,. the wonders of his care, who hath fald, " he that toucheth you, 
 " toucheth the apple of my eye." 
 
 Nincty-feven days had now pafl'ed fince \vc left Rio Janeiro, and 
 except one veflel which we met with a week after our departure, we 
 had not in all this time feen either Hiip or fliore, and had failed, b}r 
 our log, thirteen thoufand eight hundred and twenty miles, a greater 
 diftance probably than was ever before run without touching at any 
 place for refrefliment, or feeing land. But at length, tired with be- 
 holding only a vacant horizon, and the familiar objed:s the fea dailj 
 prefented to our view, all began, to look with eager expe6latibn of 
 defcrying a South-Sea ifland ; which, even in the minds of thofe 
 whofe reafon and intelligence informed them better, fancy had figured 
 as differing from all the lands or iflands on which they had ever fixed 
 their eyes before. However, the time was now arrived when this 
 curlofity was to be in part gratified. About feven in the morning 
 Toobouai was difcovered from the fore-yard by one of the fcamen, 
 bearing S. E. by E. eight or nine leagues off, Ihcwing at this dillance 
 like two feparate iflands-, but on our near approach the low land which, 
 connects the hills appeared.. The wind at N. E. being unfavourable,. 
 we flood towards the ifland, but the fun fet before we got fufficicntly 
 near to difccrn the natives ; neither did we fee any canoes. Tl^-e 
 wind at this time fhifting to E. by S. wc laid our courfe upon the 
 flarboard tack, and failing along the wcfhcrn fide pretty near the fliore, 
 though in the dufk of the evening, faw that a border of low land ran 
 from the fkirts of the hills, and upon It abundance of cocoa-nut and 
 other trees. The fea w^as breaking violently on the reefs, eipeclally to 
 Vhe N. E. where they extend a long way off. 
 
 It is now fourteen weeks fmce we lafl faw the land, which was Puo 
 Janeiro, and it mufl be confeflcd, it is very delightful to behold ; 
 though wc were not in any want of it, neither has our voyage been
 
 Feb.] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 5i 
 
 attended with any inconvenience. The Lord, in providence, has fup- 
 pHed Dur neceffities in a moft wonderful manner. Bleffcd be God, \vc 
 have not found the want of a drop of good water to quench our thirli, 
 nor bread, &c. to fatisfy our hunger, and here we are all the living 
 monuments of his mercy to praifc him. 
 
 The wind blew frcili from Toobouai, and the intention ot our 
 captain was not to go near this ifland ; but, for the fake ot iome who 
 were defirous of feeing it, we tacked to windward, and towards evening 
 ■got within a few miles of it : he thought it not prudent to land on 
 account of the natives being prejudiced againft the Englifla through 
 the mutineers of the lliip Bounty, who had deftroyed near a hundred 
 of them. But we trull to vifit them at fome future time, to remove 
 their prejudice with the glad tidings of the gofpel of peace. 
 
 A fine breeze continuing all the night, we faw no more of Toobouai. 
 
 This ifland was difcovered by Captain Cook in the year 1/77 ; and 
 upon it the unhappy Fletcher Chriftian, with his companions, the 
 mutineers of the Bounty, attempted a fcttlement in 1789. They had 
 with them fome of the natives of Otaheite, and live ftock of different 
 forts. Notwithftanding the oppofition they met with from the natives 
 on their firft arrival, they warped the fliip through the only opening 
 in the reef; then landing, chofe a fpot of ground, built a fort thereon, 
 and taking their live ftock on fliore, they intended, had the natives 
 proved friendly to their ftay, to have deftroycd the Bounty and fixed 
 themfelves there : but their own unruly conducfl alienated the natives 
 from them, who withheld their women, which they were ready to 
 feizc by violence : they excited the jealoufy of the chiefs by a friend- 
 ship formed with one of them in preference to the reft ; they were 
 difunited among themfelves, and many longed for Otaheite : they 
 refolved to leave Toobouai, and carry with them all the live ftock 
 which they had brought, the benefit of which the Toobouaians began 
 to underftand, and were unwilling to fee them again all colled:ed and 
 removed. This caufcd the firft brawl between the Otahcitean fcrvants, 
 
 H 2
 
 H» 
 
 52 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. [1797. 
 
 who were driving in the hogs, and the natives. Infolence and want of 
 gcntlenefs and conciUation, led to all the bloody confcquences which 
 cnfued. The natives were numerous, and fought with great courage, 
 forcing the mutineers to avail themfelves of a rifing ground, w here, 
 with their fuperior iliill, the advantage of fire-arms, and the aid of 
 the Otaheitcans, who fought bravely on this occaflon, they at laft 
 came off vidiorious, with only one or two of themfelves wounded, 
 whilfl the dead bodies of the Toobouaians covered the fpot, and were 
 afterwards thrown up in three or four heaps. Thus finding that no 
 peaceable fettlement was now to be obtained in this place, they re- 
 Ihipped the live ftock, abandoned their fort, and taking their friendly 
 chief on board with them, weighed anchor and fteered towards Ma- 
 taval bay in the ifland of Otaheite.. On their paflagc thither, it is 
 faid, Chrlflian became very melancholy, confining himfelf to the cabin, 
 and would hardly fpeak a word to any perfon ; lamenting, moll: pro- 
 bably, that the refolutions he had formed without deliberation, and 
 executed with rafh hade, had now Involved his own life and thofe 
 of his adherents in mlfery. As foon as they anchored in Matavai 
 bay at Otaheite, thofe who wlfhed to ftay there went on fhore ; but 
 nine of the nuitincers, and alfb fbme of the native men and women, 
 remained on board. With thefe, Chrlflian cutting the cable in the 
 night, put to fea, and fteerlng to the N. W. has never been heard of 
 fmce. 
 
 Here it may be proper, before we approach the deftlned ifland, to 
 notice the fleps which the brethren were taking, and what new regu- 
 lations were made previous to their arrival. Near feven mouths w ere 
 clapfcd fnice they embarked at Blackwall, during which time it is 
 rtafonable to fuppofe, that, being clofcly penned together in a flilp, 
 they were now become well acquainted v\ 1th each other's tempers 
 and dlfpofitlons, and that a fimilarity in thefe would naturally attract 
 peculiar regard and friendflilp. Several of the brethren having hinted 
 to the captain which group of illands they preferred, the fcniors, -vsho-
 
 l^B.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 53 
 
 had always declared tor Otahcitc, requeftcd tliat eaeh one fhould he 
 obliged, oil a day appointed, to fignify in writing the place to which 
 he wiflied to go, and fign the fame with his name. To this the cap- 
 tain replied, that they might do fo if they pleafcd ; but that he him- 
 fclf would adl as clofely agreeable to the difcretionary inflrucflions 
 given by the diredlors as future circumftanccs would allow. 
 
 By our progrefs to the caft, the monthly prayer-meetinjr had been 
 held on Tuefday morning, a quarter before feven, to correfpond with 
 our brethren at home, who met on Monday evening. A fpirit of 
 prayer and fupplication fcemed evidently poured out upon us in behalf 
 of the poor heathen ; every heart expanded with love, and glowed 
 with ardent defires to proclaim falvation to them through the blood 
 of the Lamb. 
 
 Having frequently difcuffcd the fubjeft of the Reparation of the bre- 
 thren among the three groups of iflands, the Marquefas, the Society, 
 and Friendly Iflands ; February 27th, being the day appointed, the 
 focicty met, and the bufinefs of the day was opened in the ufual man- 
 ner, when there appeared for each group as in the following lift : 
 
 OTAHEITE. 
 NO. NO. 
 
 1 Rev. J. F. Cover lo Mr. Wm. Henry 
 
 2 John Eyre 11 — P. Hodges 
 
 3 John Jefferfon 12 — R. Haffell 
 
 4 Thomas Lewis 13 — E. Main 
 
 5 Mr. H. Bicknell 14 — H. Nott 
 C B. Broomhall 15 — F. Oakes 
 
 7 J. Cock lO — J. Puckey 
 
 8 S. Clode 17 — Wm. Puckey 
 
 9 J. A. Gillham 1 8 — Wm. Smith ; 
 
 which, with five women and two children, make in all twenty-five 
 for Otaheite.
 
 54 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. " [1797. 
 
 TOXGA TABOO. SANTA CHRISTINA. 
 
 >'0. JS'O. 
 
 1 Mr. B. Bowell 1 Mr. J. Harris 
 
 2 — J. Buchanan 2 — Wm. Crook 
 ^ — James Cooper 
 
 -i — S. Harper 
 
 5 — S. Kclfo 
 
 — J. Nobbs 
 
 7 _ W. Shelly 
 
 8 — G. Veefon 
 
 9 — J. Wilkuifon 
 
 10 — — Gaulton (a .probationer. ) 
 
 The above bufinefs being fettled, the captain intimated to thofc 
 intended for Otaheite, that, as we were drawing near that ifland, it 
 would be proper for them to choofe their committee and prefidcnt. 
 This they accordingly proceeded to do ; Mr. Jefferfon was eledcd 
 prefident by a great majority, and MclT. Cover, Lewis, Henry, and 
 Broomhall, to compofe the committee. Mr. Cover was appointed 
 fecretary and ftore-keeper, and Lewis librarian. It was then agreed, 
 that the prefidcnt, fecretary, &c. fliould hold their office for fix 
 months, and that the committee fliould go out by rotation, one every 
 three months. [Matters being thus fettled, they began to encourage 
 each other to enter without fear upon their work, and by a zealous 
 and fteady perfeverance therein to manifeft themfelvcs worthy of the 
 high characters of miffionaries. 
 
 Our paflage from Toobouai was much longer than we cxpcfted, 
 owing to variable winds from the N. W. quarter and very unfettled 
 weather. 
 
 March 1 ft. From two o'clock in the afternoon till four it rained 
 cxccffivcly hard ; more than a tun of water was caught, which gave
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 5i 
 
 the mifilonaries afterwards an opportunity of wafliing their linen, 
 and putting it in order previous to tlicir landing. From four until 
 fevcn was an interval of fair weather; but now the clouds gathering 
 thick, and wearing a gloomy afpeft, a moll alarming night com- 
 menced : orders were given to furl every fail except the forcfail, and, 
 hauling it clofc, we lay to. The rain began heavier than before, ac- 
 companied, from nine till midnight, with fliarp vi\id lightning and 
 awful claps of thunder, which, on account of its nearncfs, fiiook the 
 Duff at every clap. The rain, attended with fqualls, continued till 
 three in the morning ; then abated. The fca was not high, neither 
 was the wind very violent ; neverthelefs the. darkncfs and conflidl of 
 the elements formed a night fo truly dlfmal, that all on board con- 
 feiTed they had never witneflcd the like before. We therefore, fay 
 the miffionaries-, took to the wings of faith, and fled to the God of 
 our mercies ; and when we had fung an hymn, committing ourfelves 
 to the protedlion of the Moft High, we retired to reft. The next 
 morning we returned our folemn and grateful tlianks for the protec- 
 tion of that night. 
 
 After the ftorm nothing material occurred till Saturday mornings 
 March 4th, when we beheld the long-wiilied-for ifland of Otaheite, 
 but at a great diftance. At noon the extremity of the Icfler peninfula 
 bore from N-. by W. to N. { W. twelve or fourteen leagues off : with 
 the wind at N. E. we ftood towards it until ten at night, then tacked 
 tlu-ee or four miles fouth of the reefs off Atahooroo, and ftandlng off 
 and on till daylight, fteered to go between the w eft end of the ifland 
 and Eimeo. 
 
 The captain has mentioned in converfation what we cannot wifh 
 fiiould be omitted, that the confllds he endured upon this near ap- 
 proach to the place of his deftination are not to be dcfcribed ; he felt 
 fomething of that travailing in birth which St. Paul mentions ; and 
 his anxiety refpeAing his brethren and their reception was a burden 
 almoft too heavy for him to bear — happily a gracious God quickly 
 delivered him out of all his fears.
 
 ^6 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE , [1797- 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Occurrences on landhig at Otahc'iic, and during t'lc Jirji T'lfit to that 
 
 JJland. 
 
 [Sunday, March 5, 1707.] 
 
 THE morning was pleafant, and with a gentle breeze we had by 
 feven o'clock got abrcaft of the diftrift of Atahooroo, whence 
 we faw feveral canoes putting otf and paddling towards us with great 
 fpeed ; at the fame time it fell calm, which being in their favoiar, we 
 foon counted feventy-four canoes around us, many of them double 
 ones, containing about twenty perfons each. Being fo numerous, we 
 endeavoured to keep them from crowding on board ; but in fpite of 
 all our efforts to prevent it, there were foon not lefs than one hun- 
 dred of them dancing and capering like frantic perfons about our 
 decks, crying, " Tayo! tayo!" and a few broken fentences of Englilh 
 were often repeated. They had no weapons of any kind among 
 them ; however, to keep them in awe, fome of the great guns were 
 ordered to be hoifted out of the hold, whilft they, as free from the 
 apprehcnfion as the intention of mifchief, cheerfully affifted to put 
 them on their carriages. When the firft ceremonies were over, we 
 began to view our new friends with an eye of inquiry : their wild dif- 
 ordcrly behaviour, ftrong fmell of the cocoa-nut oil, together with 
 the tricks of the arreoies, leflcned the favourable opinion we had 
 formed of them ; neither could wc fee aught of that elegance and 
 beauty in their women for which they have been fo greatly cele- 
 brated. This at iirft fecmed to depreciate them in the efljmation of 
 our brethren ; but the chccrfulnefs, good-nature, and generofity of 
 thcfc kind people foon removed the momentary prejudices. One very
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS, 57 
 
 old man, Manne Mannc, who called hlmfelf a pricrt: of the Eatooa, 
 •was very importunate to be tayo with the captain ; others, pretending 
 to be chiefs. Tingled out fuch as had the appearance of officers for their 
 tayos ; but as they neither exercilcd authority over the unruly, nor 
 bore the fmalleft mark of diftinftion, we thought proper to decline 
 their propoflils till we knew them and the nature of the engagement 
 better. At this they feemed aflonlfhed, but ftill more when they faw 
 our indifference about the hogs, fowls, and fruit, which they had 
 brought in abundance. We endeavoured to make them undcrftand, 
 but I think in vain, that this was the day of the Eatooa, and that in 
 it we diirft not trade : but their women repulfed, occafioned greater 
 wonder. They continued to go about the decks till the tranfports of 
 their joy gradually fubfided, when many of them left us of their own 
 accord, and others were driven away by the old man, and one named 
 Mauroa, who now exercifed a little authority. Thofe who remained 
 were chiefly arrcoies from Ulietea, in number about forty ; and being 
 brought to order, the brethren propofed having divine fervice upon the 
 ,quarter-deck. Mr. Cover officiated ; he perhaps was the firft that ever" 
 mentioned with reverence the Saviour's name to thefe poor heathens. 
 Such hymns were fclefted as had the mofl harmonious tunes ; firft, 
 " O'er the gloomy hills of darknefs ;" then, " Blow ye the trumpet, 
 " blow;" and at the conclufion, " Praifc God from whom all bleffings 
 *' flow." The text was from the firft epiftle general of John, chap, 
 iii. ver. 23. " God is love." The whole fervice lafted about an hour 
 and a quarter. During fermon and prayer the natives were quiet and 
 thoughtful ; but when the fmging ftruck up, they feemed charmed 
 and filled with amazement ; fometimes they w'ould talk and lautrh, 
 but a nod of the head brought them to order. Upon the whole, their 
 iinweariedncfs and quietnefs wxre aftonilhing ; and, indeed, all w ho 
 heard obferved a peculiar folcmnity and excellence in Mr. Covcr'^ 
 addrcfs on that day. 
 
 We had hitherto received very vmfatisfadory anfwers to our in- 
 quiries after the Matilda's crew ; but at laft faw two of them coming 
 
 I
 
 68 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 in a canoe : thefe were Swedes, drelTed in the teboota and maro as 
 the natives, and tattowed alfo about the legs and arms : having got 
 on board they were called into the cabin, and gave the following ac- 
 count of themfelves: — The youngefh, named Andrew Cornelius Lind, 
 about thirty years of age, a native of Stockholm, faid, that after the 
 lofs of the Matilda they took to the boats, and bearing down towards 
 Otaheite, landed on the 6th of March 17Q2, on the fouth fide of the 
 illand; they were immediately plundered of all they had, but after- 
 wards treated kindly by the natives. Since that, the captain and moft 
 of the crew had gone homeward by different methods : fix of them 
 decked one of their boats, and fct off towards New Holland ; but it 
 was improbable they would ever reach thither. The other, whofb 
 name is Peter Haggerftein, aged forty, a native of Elfuifors in Swedifh 
 Finland, was left here by Captain New of the Daedalus. They both 
 fpoke tolerably good Englifli, and being well acquainted with the Ota- 
 heitean tongue, we entertained a hope that they would prove of great 
 fervice. 
 
 From them we learnt, that the old man who was fo folicitous to 
 have the captain for a tayo, had formerly been king of Ulietea, was a 
 near relation of the royal family, and of confiderable confequence in 
 the iflands, being chief pricft over Otaheite and Eimeo. Upon this, 
 Manne Manne was invited into the cabin and treated kindly. He 
 now redoubled his importunities to gain the captain for his friend, 
 ■who defired him to wait till to-morrow, when he would confider of it. 
 The Swedes further informed us, that the former Otoo had transferred 
 his name and title of Earee rahie (or king) to his fon, and had now 
 affumed the name of Pomarrc : that in a contefl about twenty months 
 ago with Temarre, the chief of all the fouth fide of the greater penin- 
 fula, Pomarre's party prevailed, and fubjeded his adverfary to a Itate of 
 dcpendance, and foon after Tiaraboo was conquered ; and thus the 
 whole illand became fubjcd to him, or rather to his fon Otoo, and 
 has remained fo ever fmce. Motuara, the chief of Eimeo, being dead, 
 Pomarrc laid claim to the government of that illand ; and having only 
 
 i 
 
 1
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 59 
 
 the widow of the dcccafed to contend with, was, after a few fl<ir- 
 mifhcs, acknowledged as chief, or king. Thus was the power of Po- 
 marre and his fon Otoo fo greatly incrcafcd, that none dared any longer 
 to difputc their authority. 
 
 0th. About thirty of the natives, chiefly arreoies, intending to go to 
 Matavai, remained on board all the night, and part of the following 
 day, till we anchored in the bay ; as did the two Swedes ; and flept 
 on the deck. The miffionarics watched; all perfcd:ly quiet. At day- 
 break the old pricfl: awoke, and being impatient to fecure the tayofhip 
 with the captain, awoke him alfo. There was now no rcfufing him 
 any longer, as even good policy was on his fide ; therefore they ex- 
 changed names, and Manne Manne, wrapping a long piece of cloth 
 around the captain, and putting a teboota over his head, requefted 
 for himfclf a muiltet, fome fliot and gunpowder : but being told that 
 none of thefe were to fpare, and that he fliould be amply repaid for 
 what friendly offices he might do us, he fcemed fatisfied. All the 
 forenoon was employed in working up without the reefs of Oparre ; 
 but gaining little ground, at one P. M. we came to anchor in Matavai 
 bay, Point Venus bearing N. E. by E. and One Tree hill S. I W. 
 diftant from the beach about three quarters of a mile. We had not 
 been long at anchor, when all the arreoies, both men and women, 
 fprung into the water, and fwam to the lliore : their place, however, 
 was foon fupplied by others, who furroundcd the fhip with hogs, fruit, 
 and other articles : of thefe we took a little for prefent ufe ; but the 
 old prieft having promifed to fupply all our wants by next mornings 
 confequently little was done in the trading way. 
 
 Almoft the whole afternoon it rained hard till near four o'clock, 
 when we had fome intervals of fair weather ; then the captain, Manne 
 Manne, the two Swedes, with brother Cover, Henry, and a fc\v more 
 of the miffionaries, went on fliore in order to examine a large houfe 
 ftanding on the extremity of Point Venus. They called it E Fvvharrc 
 no Prltane (the Britifli Houfe), and faid it had been built by Pomarre 
 for Cajitain Bligh, who had faid he faould come back and refidc 
 
 1 2
 
 66 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 there. It is a large and fpacious building of an oblong figure, one 
 hundred and eight feet long and forty-eight wide. In the middle are- 
 four large wooden pillars about eighteen feet high, on which the 
 ridgc-trec is fupported. About three feet within the fides fland pillars 
 all round, about nine feet long, and fix feet diftant from each other. 
 On the top of thefe a plank is let down, which runs round' the whole~ 
 houfe; from theiice to the ridge large poles are fet up, and handfomely 
 bound round with fine matting about eighteen inches afunder : on this 
 the thatch is laid, of palm-tree leaves moft beautifully worked. About 
 one foot from thefe pillars, on the outfide, runs a fkreen of bamboo 
 all round, except about twenty feet in the middle on both fides. — 
 Thus hath the Lord appeared to fet before us an open door, which 
 we trufl none Ihall henceforth be able to fhut. 
 
 The chief of the diflriel (an old man name Pyteah) welcomed them 
 to the ifland, faid that the houfe was theirs, and fliould be cleared 
 for their reception the next day. He then fliewed them the pifture 
 of Captain Cook, upon the back of which were written the names of 
 his Majefly's fliips and their commanders who had vifited Matavai 
 iince that great navigator's time. The natives on fhore feemed tranf- 
 ported with the idea of men coming purpofely from Pretane to fettle 
 among them : this fet thofe miffionaries off who were to fix here, in 
 very high fpirits. 
 
 7th. Manne Manue was as good as his word, coming early along- 
 fide with three hogs, fome fowls, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a quan- 
 tity of their cloth ; the whole intended as a prefent for his tayo, the 
 captain. He made a long oration, defcriptive of all the fliips and 
 captains which had touched at Otahcite, with the names of the gods 
 of Ulietea ; but faid, that Otaheite had none but from him, acknow- 
 ledging the Brltifli God to be the bcfl, and that he fhould rcqucfl- 
 Otoo to worfliip him, and to order the people to do the fame. 
 
 Soon after Peter the Swede arrived from a diflant part of the ifland 
 with more fruit, and a remarkably large hog, the two fides of which, 
 exclufivc of the head and entrails, weighed three hundred and forty
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 6i 
 
 pounds ; it had on each fide of its mouth two large tufks ; for ufe it 
 was far too fat for us, and as many Tmall pigs were brought in the 
 courfc of the day, but little of it was eaten. 
 
 Maane Manne, the aged high-priell, had brought five of his wives 
 with him on board, not one of which exceeded fifteen years old, and 
 defired he might flccp in the cabin ; and, according to the cuftom of 
 the country, very cordially defircd Captain Wilfon, his tayo, to take, 
 his choice, and could hardly pcrluade himfclf he was fcrious in de- 
 clining the offer ; nor failed the next morning to inquire of them 
 which he had chofen. This brought on a convcrfation on the nature 
 of their cufloms ; the captain explained to the old priefl, how little 
 fuch a ftate of polygamy was fuited to happincfs ; that no womaa 
 could be cither fo attached, faithful, affectionate, or careful to pro- 
 mote domeftic felicity, as where the heart was fixed on ouc objed: 
 without a rival. The old priell did not at all relifli this dodrine, and 
 fiiid, fuch was not the cuflom of Otaheite ; but the ladies highly ap- 
 proved, and faid the Pritane cuftom was my ty, my ty, very good. 
 
 Miinne Manne was now very defirous for us to go to Eimeo with 
 the fhip, and there lan4-the miffionaries under his proted;ion, making 
 ufe of all his rhetoric to pcrfuade the captain, and bringing the two 
 Swedes, whom he feems to have much under his command, to prove 
 that Pomarre never aded honourably by the Englifh, or any othcr^ 
 after he had done with their forvices ; that thcmJelves had affifted him 
 in his wars, had been the principal inftruments of his fuccefs ; but, 
 fince his turn was ferved, he would hardly give them a fmall hog. 
 This, and all they urged, might have gained credit with us, as all the 
 late voyagers have related incidents which mark this chief's character 
 with felfilhnefs ; but, on the other fide, it might be inferred, that 
 thefe Swedes, after they had lent their affiftance, might be unreafon- 
 able, and even infolent in their demands, and by fuch condud render 
 it nccclfary for Pomarre to treat them with bare civility only. There- 
 fore, concluding them prejudiced, and the old pricft only arguing 
 from views of intercft, it was refolvcd. that as Otaheite was the raolt
 
 62 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 eligible ifland, the fettlement fliould firfl: be made there ; and the 
 friendfliip and protection of Pomarre and his fon Otoo be courted by 
 kindnefs and attachment to his interefl, to be cxprelTed and flievsn on 
 every occafion ; but never to take any part in their vi'ars, except as 
 mediators. — In the interval of fair vi-eather, betwixt daybreak and 
 eight o'clock, we purchafed a few things from the canoes alongfide, 
 merely to pleafe them ; for the liberality of our friends had left us no 
 other plea. 
 
 The rain beginning again as \-iolent as before, prevented the miffion- 
 aries landing till near eleven in the forenoon; when the captain, Mr. 
 Jeti'erfon (prefident), with a few more of the- miffionaries, went on 
 fhore, accompanied by Manne Manne and Peter. The natives had af- 
 fembled upon the beach to the number of four or five hundred, and 
 as the boat approached fome ran into the water, and laying hold of her 
 hauled her aground; then took the captain and miffionaries on their 
 backs, and carried them dry on fliore. They were received by the 
 young king (Otoo) and his wife Tetua, both carried on men's flioul- 
 ders; each took the captain by the hand, and in dumb lilence furveyed 
 him attentively, looking in his face and minutely examining every 
 part of his drefs : they beheld the brethren alfo with much the fame 
 curiofity. Tiie queen opened Mr. Cover's ffiirt at the breaft and 
 flceves, and feemed aftoniilied at fo clear a fight of the blue veins. 
 That this fliould be the cafe now, after fo many vifits from Europeans, 
 may furprife fome; but let fuch confider, that though the oldeft and 
 the middle-aged have been fully gratified in thefc rcfpeds, the yo\ing 
 ones have as yet fcen very little; for there could be but fmall differ- 
 ence between thcmfelvcs and the dark complexions of the naked 
 fliipwrccked fallors who had lately taken refuge amongft them. 
 
 The captain now informed the king, through Peter as interpreter, 
 that our only inducement tor leaving Pretane to come and vifit them 
 was to -do them good, by inrtruding them in the bell and moft ufeful 
 things; and for this end, fome good men of our number intended to 
 fettle among them ; requiring, on their part, the free gift of a piece
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 63 
 
 of land fufficicntly flocked with bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, and 
 fo large as to contain a garden and admit of houfcs being built upon 
 it; that this land fliould be their own ; that they would not, on any 
 account, intermeddle in their wars, nor employ their arms but for 
 felf-defence ; and at all times fliould live free and unmolcftcd among 
 them : to which if he confentcd, they would flay on the ifland; if 
 not, they would go elfewhere. Much pains were taken to make this 
 plain; but as Otoo appears to be a vacant-looking perfon, I doubt 
 whether he undcrllood the half of it, though he fignificd the large 
 houfe was our own, and we might take what land we pleafcd. 
 
 After this, Mannc Mannc flood up in the middle of the ring, and 
 made a long fpecch, pafTmg many encomiums on Pretane. When 
 all was over, the king, fllll holding the captain by the hand, led him 
 to the houfe, thence to the beach, and fo on ; till, tired, he requefled 
 to return on board. When arrived at the boat, Otoo dcfired to hear 
 the mufkets fired, and, to gratify him, the four they had were dif- 
 charged twice; with which compliment he feemed highly pleafed. 
 
 After dinner Otoo and his wife came off, each in a fmall canoe, with 
 only one man paddling : whilfl they went fevcral times round the 
 fhip, the queen was frequently baling her canoe w 1th a cocoa-nut fhell. 
 This may help to form an idea of what a queen is in Otahelte. 
 They would not venture on board, becaufe whercfoever they come is 
 deemed facred, none daring to enter there afterwards except their pro- 
 per domefllcs. 
 
 He appears tall and well made, about feventcen ; his queen hand- 
 fome and finely proportioned, about the fame age, and always carried 
 about, on fliore, on men's fhoulders. The king appears thoughtful, 
 fpeaks little, but furveys things with attention. The mlflionarics fup- 
 pofe Ibmething majelllc in his appearance, but the captain thought 
 him flupld, and to difcover little capacity. As he paddled round the 
 fliip he was offered the compliment of firing the great guns, but he 
 begged us not, as he was afraid, and the noife would hurt his ears.
 
 64 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1707. 
 
 Knowing there were women and children on board, they exprcUed 
 a wifli to fee them, and when they w'alked to the fliip's fide to lliew 
 themfelves, they fet up a cry of admiration and wonder. The llcy 
 darkening, they made towards fhore. We had lobfcd our fails to dry, 
 and before we could furl them there came on fuddenly a fmart fquall 
 from the N. E. attended with heavy rain, lightning, and thunder ; 
 while it lafted, the fhip drove about a cables length, from thirteen 
 fathoms into ten. 
 
 At a meeting of the committee it was rcfolved, that, as the houfc 
 was now clear, they fhould land this evening, in order to prepare for 
 the reception of the women; but the rain continuing, prevented. 
 
 8th. It rained hard all the morning till about nine o'clock, -when it 
 cleared up, and the miffionaries went on fliore with their chefts and 
 beds, and took poflcffion of their houfe. By the captain's defire, " I," 
 fays Mr. Wm. Wilfon, " followed to affift them in planning their 
 *' fcparate apartments. A vaft concourfe of the natives had gathered 
 '* on the beach, watching who fhould land in the pinnace; among 
 "them were Otoo and his wife, carried upon men's flioulders, as on 
 " the preceding day. This,^ I undcrftand, is always the cuftom 
 " when they go beyond the precincTts of their dwelling. The queen 
 " ufcd the fame freedoms with me as fhe had done the day before 
 " with Mr. Cover, and, when gratified, put my fhirt neck and 
 " fleeves again in order. With one holding each hand, I was led 
 " about for a confidcrable time, and might perhaps have been fo 
 " mofl of the dav, had I not intimated that I had bufniefs to do 
 *' within the houfe. He immediately walked with me to the door, 
 " but would not enter, becaufc the houfc would then become facrcd 
 " to himfelf 
 
 " However, before he let me go, he introduced a woman nanicd 
 " Whycrulde, the fifler of Iddcah, and alfo wife of Pomarrc : her 
 " Otoo wilhcd mc to take as a tayo. And confidering that I was 
 •" but a tranficnt vifjtor, who knew not how far a refufal might dif-
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTII-SFA ISLANDS. C)b 
 
 *' oblige him, I confcntcd to exchange names, and was Immediately 
 *' wrapped in cloth ; bcfides, in the courfe of the day, feveral hogs, 
 " both alive and ready drefled, were fent me as prcfents," 
 
 The lirft thing we fet about with the houfe was to clofe it quite 
 round with the thicker fort of bamboo, fixing a dot>r on each fide, and 
 by this means to keep the natives from crowding fo much upon us. 
 The feveral births or apartments were next planned, and partitions of 
 fmaller bamboo begun ; but in confequence of the great diftance the 
 natives had to go up the valley for thefe bamboos, the work went but 
 flowly on ; though one man ftripped his own houfe to fupply us. In 
 the arrangement, the married people had a part of one fide to thcm- 
 felves, and the finglc men the other fide : ail thefe apartments were 
 at one end, and chofen by lot. Next to them were marked out a 
 ftore-room, library, and a place for the doftor and his medicines. To 
 enclofe the whole, a partition went from fide to fide, with two lock 
 doors. The remaining fpace was left for a chapel, and into it the 
 outer doors opened. 
 
 Several of the arreoies of Ulietea having arrived here about the fame 
 time as we did with the fliip, they with their heivas made much the 
 fame flir in Matavai as a company of ftrolling players often do in the 
 fmall villages of our own country. Probably the hopes of pleafing 
 the Englifli ilrangers was alfo a fpur to their exertion, for either in 
 our fight or our hearing they were engaged the whole day in fomc 
 Iport or other. In the afternoon they colleded in great numbers 
 before the door of our houfe, and began a kind of box-fighting or 
 wreftling. Firft forming a ring, within it flood about a dozen of the 
 ftoutefl fellows, with their backs to the crowd and faces towards each 
 other. Then the game began with an a&. of defiance or challenge, 
 made by beating heavy flrokes with the flat hand upon the left arm 
 above the elbow, where this part was quite black with the repeated 
 ftrokes it had received. At lall one fteps forward to the centre of 
 the circle ; another, who thinks himfclf an equal match, advances 
 to meet him ; fometimcs only a fmart blow or tvro enfues before they 
 
 K
 
 66 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 fall back again into their places. At another time, after advancing 
 and gazing at each other for a while, one will fuddenly plump the top 
 of his head into the face of his opponent, and this caufing him to 
 retire in the dumps, fets all the crowd a-laughing. The worft of the 
 game is, when one gets an advantageous hold of his adverfary : a fe- 
 vere wreftling then takes place, and it is only at the expenfe of ftrength, 
 and blood, and hair, that they will fubmit to be parted. 
 
 Manne Manne fent ns in three hogs ready drefled for dinner, with 
 baked bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. He laid them on a large piece 
 of cloth, and invited us to fall to, but not before we had called upon 
 God to blefs it. We found it very good, though we had yet neither 
 difh, fpoon, knife, fork, table, nor chair. Innumerable prefents came 
 in from the various chiefs who were courting our friendfliip ; and wc 
 were all dreffed in Otaheite cloth. 
 
 During the day the houfe was crowded with natives, which made 
 it prudent to keep a guard over our property, though there appeared 
 no defign nor attempt at depredation. At the approach of evening 
 we commanded filence ; and, having fung an hymn, Mr. JefFerfon 
 offered up prayer to our Lord: during the fervice the natives behaved 
 very orderly and attentive. At night we requeflcd them to retire, and 
 return in the morning, which they did in the moil peaceable manner, 
 and we received not the leaft diflurbance from them. We then held 
 our ufual daily family worfhip ; and, having fupped on the plenty of 
 provifions which remained, we retired to rell, admiring the wondrous 
 providence of our God. Lord, thou haft been better to us than all 
 fears : grant us firmer faith in thy care, that we may be able to truft 
 thee more in a future day ! 
 
 How gracioufly has the Lord difplayed his arm for us fince leaving 
 our native fhores, in travcrfing a tracklefs ocean, and opening a door 
 in thefc heathen lands, we truft, to diffufe his everlafting gofpel here. 
 May the Lord make us burning and Ihining lights ! 
 
 The king held all uur hands, and fhook them, as did the queen, 
 examining our clothes very minutely, and took particular notice of
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 67 
 
 Mr. Lewis's umbrella, which, on his expanding it to (liew its ufc, 
 tliey both made figns not to Hit it over their heads, left it fliould, 
 according to their cuftoms, become thereby facred to their own ufc. 
 Their attention to us is lingularly engaging. 
 
 gth. This morning the natives came to our houfe before fevcn 
 o'clock, made a fire, boiled our water, and prepared the bread-fruit 
 and cocoa-nuts. The king and queen vifitcd us feveral times in the 
 courfe of the day. 
 
 This morning alfo Inna MadHa, the widow of Orecp'iah (brother 
 to Pomarre), lately deceafcd, paid us a vifit, accompanied by two 
 chief women. Oreepiah w as much attached to the Englilh ; and his 
 widow, fuppofmg us furry for his lofs, on entering the cabin burft 
 into tears, and continued this cxpreffion of grief till we all fympa- 
 thized with her. However, this did not laft long ; for they fooii 
 became cheerful, brcakfafted, and dined on board, as did Manne 
 Manne, and towards evening they all went on fliore ; but as no fuit- 
 able prcfents were j^et got out of the hold, they were defircd to renew 
 their vifit the next day, when fome things fliould be in readinefs for 
 them. Thefe, with the tayos of the crew and mlffionarlcs, filled all 
 parts of the flilp with hogs, fruit, and cloth. 
 
 Otoo paddled round the fliip in his canoe, as he had done the day 
 before, and calling out for fomething to eat, the captain fent him, 
 in one of our dlflics, half of a roaft pig, and fome bifcult, with which 
 he fet off for the fliorc, fecraingly much pleafed. 
 
 The bufinefs of the houfc did not go on to-day with much alacrity, 
 owing to the natives ilackenlng in their officloufnels, fo that we got 
 but few bamboos ; however, in the afternoon fome were dlfpatched, 
 taking my word, as an earee of the pahle (an officer of the flilp), 
 that they fliould be rewarded for their trouble ; accordingly in the 
 evening we had as many brought to the houfe as would keep us 
 employed all the following day. As on board, fo at the houfc, 
 numberlefs prefents were brought, confiftlng of live hogs, cocoa-nuts, 
 bread-fruit, and cloth, which are their ftaple articles; and bcfidos 
 
 K 2
 
 68 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. [1797. 
 
 thefe, more ready-drcfled meat was brought than the brethren and 
 the natives employed could confume. But in the midft of this pro- 
 fufion, fome were apprehcnfive of its being followed with inconve- 
 nience and embarraffments, and therefore wholly difapproved of 
 making tayos fo foon. 
 
 Whilft the bufinefs was going on afliore, the crew were employed 
 in weighing the anchor, warping farther up the bay, and mooring the 
 lliip with the two bowers. Peter, the Swede, alfo brought his canoe, 
 and fuch things as the miffionaries firft wanted were difpatched on 
 lliore. Thermometer 76^°. 
 
 10th. The wind eafterly, moderate and pleafant weather. The 
 people employed hoifting out of the hold and fending fundries afliore 
 on account of the million. 
 
 ^ To-day the captain landed for the purpofe of prefenting fome fhewy 
 dreffes to the young king and his wife. They met him at the beach 
 as ufual. Peter informed him of what was intended, and, fliewing 
 him the box which contained the treafure, dcfired Otoo to walk to- 
 wards his houfe, a temporary flied they had erefted for the purpofe of 
 being near our people. This was complied with ; and when they 
 came near, the captain, flopping under a tree, ordered them to form a 
 ring, and placing the box in the midll, Otoo was requefted to alight, 
 that the brethren might drefs him ; he replied. By and by, and gazed 
 fullenly for a confiderable time, till the patience of the captain was 
 pretty well exhaufted ; repeating the requeft and receiving no anfwer, 
 they opened the box, and on taking out the drefs for the queen, Ihe 
 inftantly alighted from the man's flioulder, and Otoo followed her 
 example. The fancy cap fitted her exceedingly well, and flie feemed 
 very proud of it, but it was only by unripping that the other articles 
 could be put upon her or Otoo. The captain told him that the carees 
 of Pretanc thought he was not yet fo ftout a man. Drcffed complete 
 in this gaudy attire, the furrounding crowd gazed upon them with 
 admiration. She, true to the foibles of her fcx, appeared delighted, 
 but Oloo thought little of them, faying an ax, a muilict, a knife, os
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 69 
 
 pair of fclflars were more valuable : which was faying more for him- 
 felf than wc cxpedcd, or that he had even fcnfe to do. 
 
 Juil as the ceremony was ended, Mannc Manne appeared before 
 the houfe, and calling the captain to him, clothed him in a 'Tahcitean 
 drefs, putting an elegant breaft-plate over all. They then walked 
 towards the Britifli houfe, where they found the work going on very 
 ■well ; and it being pad noon, the old prieft accompanied the captain 
 on board to dinner. 
 
 1 1th. The crew employed in fending fundries on fliorc on account 
 of the milTion. At the houfe they were very bufy fitting up the 
 apartments for the women, whom it was intended to land in the 
 afternoon. The brethren had informed the natives, that next day 
 being the day of the Eatooa, no work would be done, nor any thing 
 received ; therefore, on this account, they brought what provifions 
 might ferve till Monday, but were in rcahty fufficient to laft a week. 
 
 After dinner the pinnace was manned for the women and children, 
 and by the captain's defire I accompanied them on fliore. Vaft num- 
 bers of the natives crowded to the beach to gratify their curlofity, all 
 behaving with great refpc(fl and very peaceable. Otoo and his wife 
 kept for a while at a little diftance, feeming in doubt whether he 
 fhould approach the women ; but thinking it proper to falute him, he 
 was a little encouraged : however, he ftill kept filence, and all the way 
 as we walked to the houfe, gazed ftupidly, like another Cymon. 
 The houfe was furroiinded all the afternoon bv the natives, who 
 were much delighted with the two children, and fent often for thenn 
 and the women to flaew themfelves at the door. In the dufk of the 
 evening they all retired ; and this, the brethren remark, they have 
 iniiformly done fince they firft landed. Orders being likewile given 
 at the ihip for none of their canoes to come near on the Sunday, they 
 fupplied \is in the fame plentiful manner as they had done the mif- 
 fionarles. 
 
 As Mannc Manne had already dlftinguiflied himfelf as a very ufeful 
 man, befides bringing feveral hogs, fruit, &c. the captain, to recomr^
 
 70 riRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 pcnfc him in part, made him a handfome prefent, leaving it to him- 
 felf to enumejate the articles vhich he moft needed"; to do this he 
 was at no lofs, having great prcfence of mind on fuch occafions ; 
 therefore he run off a long lift of things which he wanted for a fmall 
 fchooner which he was building at Eimeo ; of thcfe fuch as we had 
 to Ipare were given to him. 
 
 As yet we have had no reafon to complain of any improper beha- 
 viour in the Otaheiteans, men or women. Neither have we loft a 
 fingle article to our knowledge, though many have unavoidably been 
 xnuch expofed. 
 
 The goodnefs and love of God to us fliould be graven on the tables 
 •of our hearts. After prayer the brethren retired to reft. 
 
 Before the Otaheiteans departed they were informed no work would 
 be done the next day, and they afked if it would be more devoted to 
 .prayer than the other days, and v/ere told it would. 
 
 The Sunday paffed very quietly, not one canoe coming near the 
 fliip ; and on fhore no interruption was attempted, the natives, with 
 the king and queen, attending, and conducting thcmfelves in peace 
 and good order. A difcuffion took place among the brethren con- 
 cerning the propriety of fpeaking to the natives upon the important 
 fubjed; of their miffion, when it was agreed that the prcfident 
 (Mr. Jefferfon) fliould addrefs them through the medium of Andrew 
 the Swede as interpreter. Accordingly, at three o'clock in the af- 
 ternoon, they met for this purpofe, feveral of the natives being prefent 
 both within and without the houfe ; and as foon as Andrew inter- 
 preted the firft fcntence, finding the difcourfe diredlcd to them, they 
 placed thcmfelves in attentive poftures. When they undcrftood a little 
 of what was faid, they put very pertinent queftions ; among others, 
 doubting whether we would beftow aught that could be eftcemed 
 a benefit equally on all. They afked, whether the n^eflage of the 
 Britifli God was to the toiitous as well as to the king and chiefs ? 
 They were anfwered in the affirmative ; and fiirthcr, Mr. Jefferfon, 
 pointing to his brethren, told them that they were the meifengcrs of
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 71 
 
 the only true God ; and that though all men had offended him, he 
 was, notwithllanding, a merciful God ; conferring on thofe who be- 
 lieved his word great bleffings in this life, and after death took them 
 to a ftate of eternal happinefs. Otoo was prcfent, but, according to 
 human judgment, his ftubborn, unteachable nature feems to be the 
 laft that any imprelTion can be made upon. We retired to reft, thank- 
 ful for the occurrences of the day, and for the promifmg profpedls be- 
 fore us through the providence of our God. 
 
 13th. Wind eafterly, and pleafant weather. The crew employed 
 in hoifting up goods, and fending various articles on fliore on account 
 of the miffion ; two of the brethren from each party dividing a large 
 cheft of books. 
 
 The natives had pcrfeftly uuderftood that the prohibition was but 
 for j'cfterday, for early in the morning feveral canoes were alongfidc, 
 and in one of them, with our conftant friend Manne Manne, came 
 feveral chiefs and their wives ; but the principal perfon to be intro- 
 duced at this time was the father of Pomarre, Otevv, formerly 
 Whappai, who is a very venerable looking man, aged about feventy, 
 his head covered with gray hairs, and his chin with a remarkable 
 white beard : his name had once been Otoo ; but, on the birth of his 
 fon, in compliance with the general cuftom, he changed it to Otew. 
 As ufual, he prefented the captain with a piece of cloth and a pig, 
 receiving in return, and on account of his rank, two axes, four pair 
 of fciffars, and four knives, two looking-glaffes and two old fliirts, 
 which was all he afked for ; and it appears that their requefts always 
 include the utmoft bounds of their expedlation ; fo that to add aught 
 more is quite fuperfluous and unneceffary. When breakfaft was ready, 
 moft of our vifitors went upon deck, feemingly through a fenfe of 
 good manners and a fear of offending, which we may fuppofe them 
 to have learnt from former vifitors, w ho, for their own fakes, might 
 have taught them thus much ; for it certainly Avould be very un com- 
 fortable to have them crowding at meals continually : but ^■Ianne 
 Manne had no fcruples, and, as if confcious of a right, placed himfelf
 
 72 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. [1797. 
 
 next his tayo at table, and being exceedingly fond of the tea and onr 
 bread and butter, played rather an epicurean part. In the forenoon 
 Otoo and the queen fent otf to beg leave of the captain to fend him 
 their prcfents ; to which ceremonial an anfvver was made in the affir- 
 mative ; and in confequence thereof we had them prefently along- 
 fide : the king's confilted of thirteen live hogs, and three ready 
 dreflcd ; the queen's was one dreffed, fix alive, and a bale of cloth ; 
 themfelves followed in a large double canoe, accompanied by Otoo's 
 younger brother, now prince of Tiaraboo. They would not come on 
 board, bvit cxpreffed a wifh for a great gun to be fired; and, to gratify 
 them, two were caffc loofe : Manne Manne took the match, and 
 though almoft blind with age, he boldly fired them off; with which 
 act of his own courage he was highly tranfported. Their ftay was 
 ihort ; for after they had paddled twice or thrice round the fliip, they 
 returned to the fhore. 
 
 About four in the afternoon Pomarre and his wife Iddeah, having 
 juft arrived from Tiaraboo, paid their firft vilit at the fliip ; befides 
 his ufual attendants a number of others had put themfelves in his 
 train. When alongfide he refufcd to come farther till the captain 
 fhewcd himfclf ; this being done, he immediately afccnded the fide, 
 and coming on to the quarter-deck, wrapped four pieces of cloth 
 round the captain as his own prefent ; then taking that off, repeated 
 the operation with the like quantity in the name of Iddeah. While 
 he was doing this, I thought joy evident in his countenance, and 
 was glad to find in him a piAure of good-nature very different from 
 the morofe figure which reprefents him in fome editions of Cook's 
 voyages ; and could not help thinking that his prcfcncc, which wc 
 now enjoyed, would afford pleafurc to thoufands in refined Europe, 
 who have heard fo much of the hofpitality and favour this prince' 
 of favages has always Ihewn to his vifitors. 
 
 The firft ceremonies over, he told the captain that he would fend 
 provifions and whatever we had occafion for while we ftaid at Ota- 
 hcitc. When icatcd in the cabin, he cj:prcffcd his regard for tl*«
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 73 
 
 Englifli, and called King George his friend. On this the interpreter 
 was defircd to inform him, that King George loved him, and that the 
 earees of Prctanc did the fame ; and that out of regard for him and his 
 people, they had fent this fliip with fome of the bell men, purpofcly 
 to do them good ; and then defired to know, whether he was pleafed 
 that part of our number fliould refide on his ifland. He immediately 
 anfwered in the affirmative. A piece of land for their ufc was next 
 mentioned to him ; to which, after a few words with his privy coun- 
 fellor Iddeah, he anfwered, that the whole diftrid of Matavai fliould 
 be given to the Englifli, to do with it what they pleafed ; obfcrving, 
 that Pyteah, the prcfcnt chief of the diftrid:, was a good old man ; 
 that it would be for the benefit of our people to permit him to hold his 
 refidence near to their dwelling-houfe ; and that he, according to or- 
 ders which fliould be given him, would enforce obedience from the 
 natives, and oblige them to bring whatever the Englifli wanted of the 
 produce of the difl:ri(fl. 
 
 Thefe mofl: important matters to us being fettled, as far as they could 
 be for the prefent, the chief thought it was time to inquire after enter- 
 tainments ; and firfl; iky-rockets, next the violin and dancing, and 
 laflly the bagpipe, which he humouroufly defcribed by putting a bun- 
 dle of cloth under his arm, and twifting his body like a Highland piper. 
 When we told them that we had none of thefe, they feemed rather de- 
 jefted ; therefore, to revive them a few tunes were played upon the 
 German flute by Mr. Bowcll and one of the feamen, though it plainly 
 appeared that more lively mufic would have pleafed them better. 
 
 Pomarre intimating a wifli to fleep on board, it was granted ; he 
 then allced leave for his wife and fcrvant, which was alfo complied 
 with. It may be proper to remark here, that Iddeah, though fl;ill con- 
 fidered as the wife of Pomarre, has not for a confiderable time coha- 
 bited with him, but wuth one of her toutous (or fervants), by Avhom 
 flie has had one child, and is again pregnant ; her younger fiflcr, 
 Why'reede, next cohabited with the chief, but left him through dif- 
 like for one of far inferior rank ; and his prefent wife is a very fl:out 
 
 L young
 
 74 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [lygT. 
 
 young woman, but of what condition we could not learn. However, 
 it is evidently clear, that they hefitate little about mixing with the 
 lower orders of the people ; but if iflue ihould be the confequencc of 
 thefe connexions, it is rarely the pride of rank futFers the poor infants 
 to live an hour after they are born. At fupper the chief devoured a 
 whole fowl, with the addition of about two pounds of pork, and drank 
 proportionally. 
 
 At the houfe all was peace and quietnefs with the natives, and 
 nothing particular is noticed in the miffionary journal, except a few 
 cxpreffions of diffatisfaftion concerning their brethren leaving them to 
 go to the Friendly Iflands. 
 
 To-day received as prefents twenty-two live hogs, and five ready 
 drefl'ed. 
 
 ]4th. This morning Manne Manne and feveral others came on 
 board, all behaving refpeftfully to Pomarre. The captain, ia order 
 to cultivate his friendfliip, made him a prefent of an excellent fingle- 
 cafed metal watch, with which he was very much pleafed ; obferving, 
 that none before ever made him a prefent of the kind. As we knew 
 him quite ignorant how to manage a watch, Peter (the Swede) was 
 dlrc£led to wind it up for him every day. Thermometer 76°. Pomarre, 
 his young wife, Iddcah, and the old prieft, brcakfafted and dined with 
 us. The tea juft fuited their taftc ; and at dinner the two chiefs 
 drank of the wine eagerly. The captain fliewing fome unwillingnefs 
 to indulge Manne Manne to a greater degree, he anfwcred to the 
 following purport : — that as he was going on fliore to facrifice a man 
 to the Eatooa, he took it to raife his courage. Exprefling our abhor- 
 rence of fo cruel a defign, he became filent ; and his friend: Peter de- 
 fired him never to mention any thing of the kind to us. 
 
 By a letter from Mr. JefFerfon (the prefident), it appears that the 
 apprehcnfions of thofe on fliore, both for their perfons and property, 
 are much increafed ; alfo their fufpicions of the profcfTed fricndfliip 
 of the natives, who, they hear, have formed the dcfign of rufhing upon 
 them and taking all away ; in confequencc of which they urge the ne-
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 75 
 
 ccffity of the whole body fetthng at this place. But for fuch fufpicions 
 there docs not appear the fliadow of fear ; nothing can be more peace- 
 ful, kind, and fubmiffivc, than the natives, aiTifling them readily in all 
 their preparations. Pomarre and Iddcah, in the afternoon, vifitcd the 
 houfc, and viewed the improvements made with wonder and delight. 
 They partook of a difli of tea with us ; one of his attendants poured 
 the tea from the cup to the faucer, and then held it to his mouth : this 
 is the way at every meal ; his dignity will not permit him to feed him- 
 felf. When he had finiflied, he requefhcd the faucer might be kept for 
 his future ufc, and that no woman might be permitted to touch it. We 
 were furprifcd to fee fo ftout a man, perhaps the largeft in the whole 
 ifland, fed like a cuckoo. 
 
 15th. Moderate breezes and pleafant weather ; employed on board 
 hoifling up goods, and landing them on account of the miffion. 
 Received ten butts of water by fwimming them off. Thermometer 70'^. 
 
 On fhore the brethren were bufied making a faw-pit, and fitting 
 up their apartments. Among the remarks of this day they fay, 
 " Several Otaheiteans vifited us as ufual, continuing to bring hogs, fruit, 
 " &c. Pomarre and his attendants were with us at family worfliip ; 
 " after which the prefnlent informed him of the nature of our miffion, 
 " to teach them our God and Saviour ; to learn them to read the 
 " fpeaking book of wifdom, and to in(lru(fl them in all ufeful arts ; 
 " which he applauded, as he had already done at the fliip, and faid it 
 " was my ty, my ty, veiy good; and added, that he would fend his fons 
 " for inflrudlion." 
 
 He came not near the fliip to-day, but returned his watch verj^ much 
 damaged, which we fuppofe to be the reafon why he abfented himfelf : 
 no doubt a hatchet would now have been efteemed a prefent of greater 
 worth, though the glitter of a watch pleafed him more at firft. 
 
 By another letter from the prefident it appears that the brethren 
 are ftill more afraid of the natives than before ; and this in confe- 
 quence of being told by the Swedes that an attack upon them is in- 
 tended Diortly to be made : they therefore requeft an ad<lition of arms 
 
 L 2
 
 76 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE ' [1797; 
 
 and ammunition, and farther urge the apparent neccflity of the 
 whole body remaining at Otaheite. The captain wrote a few lines 
 in anfwer, which brought Mr. JefFerfon on board ; when, in a con- 
 ference with the brethren intended for the Friendly Ifles and Mar- 
 quefas, he laid before them the grounds of their fears, and requefted 
 they would join them. To this they faid they could not give a dire(R: 
 reply, but defired to have till the following day to confider the matter. 
 This feems a mere bugbear and artifice of the Swedes. 
 
 16th. The brethren on board having debated the fubjcdt of yefler- 
 day, and concluding the above-mentioned fears groundlefs, and by no 
 means caufe fufficient for them to confine the whole effort of the fb- 
 ciety to one ifland, and thereby difappoint the hopes of many of its 
 valuable members at home ; they therefore returned their ultimate an- 
 fwer in the negative. 
 
 This being the day appointed by Pomarre for ceding in form the 
 diftridl of Matavai to the Englilh, the captain landed upon Point Ve- 
 nus ; was there received by the chief, and conduced near to the mif- 
 fionary houfc. Moft of the brethren from the fliip, and all on lliore, 
 were prcfent at this ceremony. Peter the Swede took, as ufual, the 
 office of interpreter. '• The fcene," fays Mr. Bowell, " was laid be- 
 *• fore the door of the millionary houfe, at fome dillance from which a 
 *• rope was flretched to keep off the crowd. Pomarre, Iddeah, Otoo, 
 -• his ^wife and brothers, went alfo without the rope. Manne Manne, 
 ^T who alone a6led the part of conveyancer, remained within with 
 " the captain and brethren. He then defired Peter to tell the captain 
 " all that he lliould fay, and began by prefacing his oration with towa, 
 " towa, hear ! in order to attradl general attention ; then went on enu- 
 " merating all the Eatooas of Otaheite, Eimeo, and the Society Ifles ; 
 " next the diftrids and their chiefs in regular order ; and laftly the 
 " fhips and their commanders, from Wallis, Bougainville, and Cook, 
 *' down to the Duff and her captain : concluding with the formal fur- 
 *' render of the dillridt of Matavai : obfcrvin?, that we might take 
 ** wliat houfcs, trees, fruit, hogs, &c. wc thought proper. This flrange
 
 March.] TO THE vSOUTII-SEA ISLANDS, 77 
 
 *' fpecch was delivered very deliberately by the old prieft, who, while 
 " he fpokc, fat in an odd poilure, half bent upon his heels, holding 
 " with one hand the rope, and frequently fcratching his head and 
 " rubbing his eyes with the other. Tliefe peculiarities were caught 
 " by his mimicking countrymen, who afterwards turned them into 
 " humurous pantomime." 
 
 A converfation now took place between the captain and Mannc 
 Manne, concerning the going to war with his enemies. Manne 
 Manne importuned the captain to aflift him againfl Ulietea, of which 
 he had been king, but was driven from it feveral years ago. Being 
 told that we had no orders to fight, except in our own defence, and 
 that other fliips might come with different inftruftions, and who 
 might have no objeftion to join him in fuch enterprifes, he replied, 
 that he might be dead before that might happen. " Well, then," 
 fays the captain, " your fon may aft in your place, and be reinftatcd 
 " in your kingdom." To this he anfwered fmartly, " I would rather 
 " fee it done with my own eyes." The brethren obferving his reluc- 
 tance to a pofitive denial upon this point, Mr. Cover fald, that they 
 would affift to finifli the veffel which he was building ; and when they 
 had learnt the language, would go to Ulietea and talk to the people 
 on the fubjcft. This for the prefent fatisfied him, and the bufmefs 
 ended ; Pomfirre, Otoo, and the other chiefs, fhaklng hands with the 
 captain and brethren. Thus a door feems opening for the gofpel at 
 Ulietea, whither fome of the brethren purpofe to go as foon as they 
 have the language. 
 
 17th. Wind eafterly, with moderate and pleafant weather. Set 
 up our rigging, and rafted alongfide fifteen butts of water, \\hich. 
 completed our ftock ; and as we propofed to fail in a day or two, feve- 
 ral articles w^ere fent on fliore to enable the brethren to go on witli 
 their work, with a quantity of nails, &c. for trade during our ab- 
 fence ; alfo tea, chcefe, and what elfe we could fpare of that nature. 
 
 None of the chiefs came near us to-day, and but few canoes. The 
 young king and Pomarre paid a vifit at the houfe, w hen Mr. Jeffcrfon 
 took occafion to fpcak to him concerning the education of his chiU
 
 78 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [irg?, 
 
 dreii ; reprcfentlng it as a matter of the grcateil importance both trt 
 them and the people of Otahcite ; and that he would be highly blame - 
 able to ncgled; the opportunity •which their coming afforded. The 
 chief's mind feemed irnpreffed with the truth of what was faid, and 
 he immediately fpoke to Otoo, avJio returned a .very unfavourable an- 
 fwer : " He did not want to learn Englifli." " I have a very bad 
 " opinion of Otoo," fays Mr. Jefferfon. And certainly appearances 
 arc much againfi; him ; however, we may reafonably hope^ that the 
 example ot our people, and the exhibition of arts which muft appear 
 wonderful ia their eyes, may in time excite in his mind a thiril: after 
 knowledge. They expreiled high delight on the garden engine .play- 
 ing, and.cafting water on the thatch of the houfe. Tiicrmometer 7 0|*'. 
 18th. Wind from N. E. to E. S. E. moderate and pleaCmt wea- 
 ther ; employed clearing the Ihip for fea. In the afternoon Pomarre 
 and Iddeah caqie on board,, accompanied by Manne Manne, and Peter 
 to interpret. A prefent of cloth was made the captain, and by a large 
 cheft which they had brought with them in the canoe, we could fee 
 what they expecfled ; but feigning not to underfland, as they handed 
 it up the fide, the captain inquired of the chief what he meant to do 
 with it. He feemed greatly perplexed how to anfwer this queftion, 
 till at laft he faid, that he only wanted the lock repaired. He was 
 then direcfled to take it on lliore to the blackfmith ; but this embar- 
 ralTed him more than before ; and feeing no other way to free him- 
 felf, he faid with a/mile, that it was intended to hold the prefent 
 which the captain might be pleafed to make to him and Iddeah ; and 
 rcquefted that it fliould be put into the cabin, to prevent his people 
 from feeing what he received. When fcated below, he was afked 
 what he would like to have ; but feeming at a lofs what to name, the 
 old prieft, whofe wits are always ready, helped him out : and firll 
 axes ahowroo, ahowroo, that is. twice ten, or ten for himfelf, and ten 
 for Iddeah ; then for .each five fliirts, tight looking-glafles, fix pair of 
 fchifiTars, fix knives, fifty nails, and five combs : bcfides thefe, were 
 added to his part, one caft-iron pot, one razor, and a blanket. The 
 jyhole was put into the chcfi:, and fccurcd by the lock, which was
 
 March.] TO THE SOXITII-SEA ISLANDS. 79 
 
 very good. He then acknowledged himfclf content ; but going aftcr- 
 •W'ards betwixt decks, where the brethren had feveral things lying 
 loofe, he craved tor fomething of all that he faw ; but as they knew 
 how well he had fared in the cabin, they gratified him with very little. 
 I have been thus particular, becaufc the incidents of this day do, in a 
 meaiiirc, charadlerize the chief. 
 
 The brethren intended for the Friendly Ifles, confidering that none 
 of the ordained mlnifters were to accompany them, chofe from their 
 number Mr. Seth Kelfo to be their paftor, and urged to thofe on Ihorc 
 the propriety of ordaining him and John Harris previous to their de- 
 parture. This they very readily confented to, and the next day, be- 
 ing Sunday, was appointed for that purpofe. Thermometer 70°. 
 
 19th. The fame orders being iffued as for lafl Sabbath, but two or 
 three canoes were off in the bay, and feeing that we took no notice of 
 them, they foon returned to the ftiore. To-day, at the miffionary 
 houfe, were ordained Seth Kelfo and John Harris, miniftcrs to the 
 places of their refpe(?llve dcftination. 
 
 The tranfacSIons of this day being fingular, a more full report can- 
 not but give fatisfatflion, and tend' to encourage greatly our hopes as 
 to the ultimate object of our miffion. 
 
 It havino; been made known that we Intended to addrefs the natives 
 this morning, numbers of them affembled early round our dwelling ; 
 among them was Pomarre and his fifler : he had been inquiring a day 
 or two before concerning our fpeaking to them, and faid, " he had' 
 " been dreaming about the book whicli fliould be fent him from the 
 *' Eatooa." 
 
 At ten o'clock we called the natives together under the cover of 
 Ibme fliady trees near our houfe ; and a long form being placed, Po- 
 marre was requeftcd to feat himfclf on it with the brethren, the reft 
 of the natives Handing or fitting in a circle round us. Mr. Cover then 
 addreffed them from the w^ords of St. John, '' God fo loved the 
 " world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that they who believe 
 " on him fliould not perifli, but have everlafling life ;" the Swede 
 interpreting fentcnce by fentence as he fpoke. The Otaheitcans were
 
 80 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797, 
 
 fileat and Iblemnly attentive. After fervlce Pomarre took brother 
 Co\"er by the hand, and pronounced the word of approbation, " My 
 " ty, my ty." Being afked, " If he had underftood what was faid ?" 
 he replied, " There were no fuch things before in Otaheite ; and they 
 " were not to be learned at once, but that he would wait the coming 
 " of (the Eatooa) God." Defirlng to know if he might be permitted 
 to attend again, he was told, yes. Being condudled into the houfe, 
 he and his wife dined with us, and departed. 
 
 About three o'clock the ordination folemnity of the brethren Kelfo 
 and Harris took place; they were fet apart for their work by the im- 
 pofition of hands of our ordained brethren. Brother Cover preached 
 the ordination fermon, and delivered the charge ; brother Jcfferfon 
 having jnade the inquiry of the candidates refpefting their call and ob- 
 jects, and brothers Lewis and Eyre prayed at the commencement and 
 end of the fervice. The communion doled the folemnity, which was 
 to us all a moft refrefliing and comfortable ordinance ; and for the 
 firft time the bread-fruit ot Otaheite was ufed as. the fymbol of the 
 broken body of our Lord, and received in commemoration of his dy- 
 ing love. 
 
 Manne Manne was prefent during the whole fervice, and very at- 
 tentive, particularly during the adminillration of the Lord's fupper ; 
 he placed himfclf in the circle with the brethren, and when they paf- 
 fed him he Ihifted his fituation farther on, ni hopes of partaking with 
 them. 
 
 20th. Pomarre, Iddeah, and all our Saturday's guefts, vifited us 
 again to-day, bringing more cloth and fome fowls for fea-ftock. They 
 ftaid dinner ; the chief, fed by his head man, ate heartily, and drank 
 a large fhare of a bottle of wine, evincing rather a covetous dcfire for 
 it, as he would hardly allow Manne Manne to have a glafs with him. 
 On the appearance of rain they took their leave, wifhing us a good 
 voyage, and exprcffing a hope of our fpeedy return. 
 
 As Peter the Swede had offered to go with us to the Friendly 
 Iflands, the captain confented, thinking that he might be fcrviceable 
 on forae occafions as interpreter. He purposed taking with him a
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 81 
 
 young woman named Tanno Manno, with whom he had tor fomc 
 time Hved as his wife, a man the mutineers had named Tom, and 
 a boy called Harraway. The two laft Mr. Crook, who had already 
 made great proficiency in the Otaheitean language, thought might 
 be great helps to him. On this account the C£\ptain permitted them 
 to go with us alfo. The natives underftood we were now about to 
 leave them for fome months, but the captain's intention was to lie a 
 few days at Eimeo, and, previous to fetting off for the Marqucfas, to 
 touch again in Matavai bay, when we might probably learn how the 
 natives were likely to behave during our abfence. Matters being thus 
 fettled, we took with us Mr, William Puckey, by trade a carpenter, 
 to examine Manne Manne's vcflel, and fee whether flie was worthy 
 their affiftance to finifli her. After dark in the evening a canoe came 
 alongfidc from Eimeo ; in her was a Swede named Jolin, whom we 
 had not feen before ; him his countryrnen reported to be in a flate of 
 infanity, and by his difcourfe we thought him a little fo. On his 
 part, he complained much of the treatment which he had received 
 from his lliipmates fmcc they landed ; and expreffed a defire to re- 
 turn to Europe. The captain, in anfwer, told him, that at prefent 
 he could not keep him on board ; that he was on the point of failing, 
 and would in a few months return ; in the mean while he might ftay 
 at the miffionary houfe, and if he behaved well he llaould have q 
 paflage with us : he is a native of Stockholm, about forty years old, 
 and feems much reduced by ficknefs. 
 
 On Mr. Puckey's coming on board, fome converfation paffed on 
 the propriety of the brethren's arming themfelves on fliore, and 
 keeping watch night and day; which thofe on board difapproved. 
 He replied to them very fatisfadlorily, that their intention in taking 
 arms was not to injure the natives, much lefs to plant the gofpel by 
 human power ; but merely as a means ordained of God for the pro- 
 tc<^ion of their perfons and property during the abfence of the fliip. 
 
 M
 
 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Short Voyage to Eimeo, and Return. 
 
 ABOUT an hour before daylight wc weighed, with a light air 
 from the S. E. which taking us but llowly out of the bay, the 
 natives perceiving the fails fet, hurried off in their canoes, eager to get 
 a few articles more before we departed. At feven A. M. a frefli gale 
 fpringing up from the N. E. attended with thunder and lightning, 
 we left them, and by ten o'clock were off the north-eaft part of 
 Eimeo, when it again fell little wind. We kept running along the 
 edge of the coral reefs towards Taloo harbour, and, at the diffcance of 
 half a cable's length off, had irregular foundings, viz. fix, eight, 
 twelve, and fourteen fathoms. The reef appeared to block up the 
 harbour till we were nearly abreaft of it, when a good entrance fhews 
 itfelf. With a light breeze" we run clofe up to the fouth-eaft corner 
 of the harbour, and let go our anchor in ten fathoms water, and 
 moored with the ftream cable to a remarkably large tree Avhich ftands 
 clofe to the water's edge ; the Steeple cliff at the head of the liarbour 
 bearing S. by E, 
 
 Taloo harbour is on the north fide of the ifland ; : the bottom fo 
 clear, that you difi:ln(ftly fee the coral, with its beautiful branches. 
 The mouth of the harbour is about a qviarter of a mile broad ; the 
 water of an amazing depth : this' led into a moft delightful bay, about 
 two miles wide and three deep. This bay is beautifully Surrounded 
 with trees ; not the Icaft agitation of the water is perceivable on the 
 beach, let the wind blow from what quarter it may, it is fo perfedly 
 land-locked. We lay under a mountain ten times as high as our 
 topg-allant-maft, and perpendicular. There is a fine frefh-water river 
 running up fomc miles, which a boat can afccnd a mile or two, and
 
 Mauch.J to the SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 85 
 
 " put in pradlicc ; and wc were allowed to return without molcfta- 
 " tion." 
 
 Soon after they got on hoard, a meeting of all the brethren was held 
 in the cabin, to debate on the propriety of taking fire-arms on fliore 
 with them at Tongataboo. Brother Kelfo opened the meeting in the 
 ufual manner; alter which the captain, as prefidcnt, informed them 
 of the reafons of being convened ; and, after a long conVerfation \ipon 
 the fubjed, there appeared, on a divifion — for taking mufkets to de- 
 fend their perfons and property, brothers Harper, Kelfo, Nobs, Shelly, 
 Vcefon, and Wilkinfon — againil it, Bowell, Buchanan, and Cooper. 
 
 Before the meeting broke up, there were fome remonftrances ad- 
 drefled to Meflrs. Harris and Crook, concerning their going to the 
 Marquefas in fo fmall a number ; to which they anfwered. That 
 having long fince made that place their choice, they were flill in the 
 fame mind, nor did they entertain a doubt of meeting with a favour- 
 able reception : and on this account they did not think it neccffary 
 for the fliip to revifit them, but would rather, if the propofal met 
 with the captain's approbation, that the fhip lliould firft go to the 
 Friendly Iflands, and then proceeding to the Marquefas, a vaft ex- 
 penfe of time would be faved, and the captain be enabled to Hay a 
 month or more to fee them fafely fettled. This propofal was appro\ed 
 and adopted as our future plan. 
 
 About thirty canoes, filled with men and women, kept paddling 
 around us all the day ; a great number, who had no canoes, but only 
 a log of wood, and fome nothing, diverted themfclves in the water 
 feveral hours together, and if a fmall trinket was thrown in, they 
 would dive fome fathoms after it, and w"ere in general furc to bring 
 it up. 
 
 The night was very dark, arid about eleven o'clock the watch faw 
 a naked native ftanding in the main chains ; and attempting to fcize 
 him, he leaped into the water, and made his elbape, taking with him. 
 » four yards of our eledric chain.
 
 50 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [17P7. 
 
 2 3d. Sent the boat to a creek for a turn of water, but when it 
 came we could not drhik it, by roafon of a bitternefs, imbibed pro- 
 bably from the trees and llirubs on its banks ; however, on the weft 
 fide, and not far from the head of the harbour, an excellent fpring 
 of water was found. The natives furrounded us as }efterdav, but 
 w 1th little to barter. 
 
 24th. Fine pleafant weather. Many natives from ditferent parts 
 of the ifland were to-day viewing the fhip wnth apparent admiration; 
 and perhaps it is no erroneous opinion to fuppofe that there never was 
 a ihip in thole parts fo ornamented with figures to attract their at- 
 t^^ntion. None appeared with arms, but all roguifhly Inclined, on 
 which account we would not fuffer one ot them to come upon our 
 decks ; but, notwithftandlng our precautions, they found means to 
 fteal the rudder out of the jolly boat lying along-fide. While we were 
 at dinner in the cabin a canoe came clofe under the ftern, and a tali 
 fellow, getting upon the back of the rudder, reached his hand up, 
 and fnatched away a book which lay juft within the cabin windows; 
 he then immediately fell back, and made a plunge in the water. This 
 we heard, and flarting up, infifted upon their putting the canoe along- 
 fide, but this they refufed to do, and began to fct off towards the 
 Ihore, as did all the reft that were near us. Thinking this aftion too 
 daring to be overlooked, and clemency, fo often extended, only an 
 excitement to greater depredations, a few fmall fliot were fired, which 
 made them take to the water, and fkulk behind the canoe. Two of 
 the feamen in our jolly-boat tried in vain to catch the offender, for he, 
 w ith the dexterity of a wild duck in the water, eluded all their at- 
 tempts to lay hold of him ; and it was only with the help of the pin- 
 nace, and frightening him with a niufket, that we caught him at 
 laft. When alongfide he trembled through fear of being put to 
 death, and ftn;ggled hard to get into the water again, but making a 
 rope faft round his body, he was hoifted on board, and laflicd vip to 
 tht rigging, iu fight of his coxjutrymcn, who ftood ranged along the
 
 March.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 87 
 
 beach in cxpeftation of feeing him punifhcd. As Peter was on fliorc 
 at this time, the dcHnquent was kept hound till he returned on board ; 
 in the mean while, the natives, obferving nothing was done to him, 
 came around us as before. Wiicn Peter arrived, he v\as dcfired to 
 tell the man in what light we coufidercd his offence, and that if he 
 or any other perfon was found to do the like again, they would cer- 
 tainly be feverely punlfhed ; and that the reafon why we let him go 
 at this time was merely becaufe we had not warned him of the con- 
 fequcnce before. To this he faid, he would not do fo again, and 
 took his leave with joy in his countenance. 
 
 The bad conduct of the captain's fteward had been often noted ; 
 though the miffionaries were relu6lant to complain. This had at laft 
 exhaulled the patience of the captain, who turned him out of the 
 cabin before the maft. This evening, going on fliore with others to 
 bathe, he fecreted himfelf, having contrived to get fome of his things 
 on fhore unknown to any but the Swede. This caufed us much 
 forrow of mind, as he had made, on coming on board, a profeffion 
 of godlinefs, thoiigh his conduft had very little adorned it. We 
 feared that this man, thus leaving the flaip and indulging in all the 
 abominable practices of the heathen, would prove a great reproach 
 and plague to us ; and fo we afterwards found it to be. 
 
 Having now finifhed the painting of the Ihip, and put her other- 
 wife in good order, the flream cable was ordered to be cafi: off from 
 the tree on ihore, and all things to be in readinefs for proceeding to 
 fca with the land breeze in the morning. Orders were given alfo, 
 that a good look-out fliould be kept during this night, as we had 
 Ibme reafon to apprehend that Me Ihould be vlfited by thieves in the 
 dark ; therefore two muflcets were placed in readinefs. As we ex- 
 petted, fo it proved ; for about one o'clock in the morning, when it 
 was very dark, a man was heard fwimming under the fhip's bows, 
 clofe to the cable, and perhaps with an intent to cut it ; a niuiket 
 was fired, which fct him off with great precipitancy towards t]\e 
 fliorc. .;.i '• vT. ' .
 
 88 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 25th. At fix A. M. with a hght air at S. S. E. we weighed and 
 flood out of Taloo harbour, which as we cleared we found the wind 
 more to the eaflvward. Several of the natives in their canoes followed 
 us quite out to fea, expreffing a greater defire to trade with us than 
 thej had done all the time we lay among them. 
 
 Concerning the people of this ifland, we learnt but little, not caring 
 to trufl ourfelves in fmall parties on fhore, for fear they lliould reta- 
 liate on us the vengeance which Captain Cook inflidled upon them 
 for flealing his goats. However, we obferved in thofe who came 
 alongfide, that they had not attained to that frank afeble behaviour 
 towards ftrangers, that the Otaheiteans have in general : neither were 
 they fo fkilful in bartering ; and in every point of civilization feemed 
 far behind that people : which difference I cannot otherwife account 
 for, than by fuppofmg them lefs vifited by Grangers from Ulietea and 
 the other iflands than Otaheite is. For it is certain that the vaft num- 
 ber of arreoies which refort to the latter place do not only, by virtue 
 of their privileges, oblige to the excrcife of hofpitality, the parent of 
 many focial qualities, but by their addrefs, knowledge of the iflands, 
 and various talents to pleafe, they contribute to inform the minds and 
 foften the manners of thofe they vifit. In their perfons they differ 
 nothing from the Otaheiteans, except it be in a Jewilh caft of coun- 
 tenance, which is here more general : and a greater proportion of their 
 women are of a low ftature, but equal in the fymmetry of features. 
 
 We faw but few canoes, and thofe were very indifferent ones both 
 in fize and goodnefs, nor were there any figns of their being poffcflcd 
 of many. 
 
 As for the ifland itfelf, it fceras to have fuffcrcd great convulfions 
 cither from earthquakes or other violent caufes. Mofl: of the hills 
 are high, pointed at their tops, with broken rugged fides, particularly 
 about Taloo harbour, from the entrance of which they have a very 
 ftriking appearance. The low grounds are covered with cocoa-nut, 
 bread-fruit, and other trees, all growing luxuriantly, and without care 
 «r culture. They have alfo all the roots, &c. in common with the
 
 Marcu.J to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 8Ci 
 
 other idands. And here the cows arc that Captain Cook lelt with 
 them, but they arc little attended to, as it is (aid that they are wild, and 
 that none of the natives dare approach them : there Is no bull. Wc 
 did Intend to have-landed in pursuit of the cows, and to have taken 
 them to Matavai ; but as all the chiefs were abfent, it was thought 
 prudent to rclimiuilli the plan lor tear of mifchief from the natives. 
 
 Towards evening; we faw Tetluiroa, low land, about twenty-four 
 miles from Otaheite. It confifts of fix or leven iilets very near each 
 other, not many feet above the level of the fca, covered with cocoa- 
 nuts, but no bread-fruit, which they are not allowed to cultivate. 
 It belongs to the King, but Manue Manne claims it. The natives, 
 about three thoufand, arc employed in filhing for the chiefs at Ota- 
 heite, and bring back bread-fruit and other things in exchange. 
 
 2()th. About four in the afternoon we tacked the fhip clofe in with 
 One Tree hill, hoillcd our colours, and fired a gun ; upon hearing of 
 which, MefTrs. Cover, Lewis, Henry, Gillham, and others came off 
 in a double canoe, and reported that all was well, that they had now 
 ao reafon to entertain apprehenfion of future mifchief from the na- 
 tives, who, they fay, ufually leave their houfe about fix o'clock in the 
 evening, and revifit them regularly at an early hour in the morning. 
 The chiefs alfo were behaving extremely well. Since we left them 
 they had made Manne Manne a cheft, which pleafed him. Pomarrc 
 had juft fet off to another diftrid, after promifing to be with them 
 again in a day or two. They were all in good health ; and refpeding 
 provifions, the natives continued to fupply them plentifully with all 
 that the ifland afforded. This pleafing intelligence could not fail to 
 fatisfy us, and alfo to reconcile them to the departure of their brethren. 
 Therefore we took leave of our friends, hoifled in the pinnace, and 
 made fail for the Friendly Iflands, after fending on lliorc materials fur 
 a flat-bottomed boat, to be built during our abfence. 
 
 Nothing could have exceeded the kindnefs and attention of the 
 natives; every day they attended our worfliip, and heard fui h addrcffcK 
 as we were able to make to them through an interpreter. This firft 
 
 N
 
 go FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE []7f>7. 
 
 experiment of the fiiip's abfencc had removed all the brethren's fears ; 
 and they faw us quit the harbour onl}^ with the tcndernefs of parting 
 frifends, who hoped again fhortly to meet and rejoice together ; wifhing 
 their miffionary brethren good fpeed in the fcveral places of their dcfri- 
 iiation ; yet not without many tears. 
 
 The wind being frclh to eaft, we filled our topfails, and left them far 
 aftern. The brethren, who had come off haftily in the canoe, impro- 
 \ idently came away without the paddles ; fcveral canoes being near, 
 they borrowed two, and feme loofe boards w ere in tlie canoe with 
 them ; with thefe they tried to pull her ahead in vain, the wind 
 blowing from that point to which they wanted to go. The crofs piece 
 of the canoe, it being a double one, gave way, the lafhing being 
 nearly cut through ; fo they paflcd a rope round the bottom, and fe- 
 cured it. They were, hov/evcr;, obliged to bear away beyond One 
 Tree hill, and travel home on foot, leaving the canoe and her cargo 
 to the care of the natives, who were very faithful, and brought heir 
 back the next day.
 
 Apiui..] to *rHE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 91 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Divjjion of thi MiJJ)onancs. — J'^oyage to Tongaiaboo. — OccurrSncts there 
 
 during thefrjl V'ljit. 
 
 WE muft now interrupt the account of the tranfaftions at Ota- 
 heitc, to follow our other brethren through the deep ; on the 
 ihlp's return they (hall be recorded. 
 
 The day following our departure from Matavai we pafTed to fhc 
 fouthward of the Society Iflands, in fight of Huaheinc, Ulictea, Otaha, 
 and Bdlabola ; then, with a fine fair wind and pleafant weather, 
 Ihaped our courfe for Palmerfton's ifland, which we intended to vifit, 
 as it lay directly in our way. Accordingly, on the firft of April, a 
 little before day, we faw it bearing weft, diftant about two leagues ; 
 then running nearer, hoifted out the pinnace and jolly-boat, and 
 attempted landing on the fouth-eafternmoft iflet ; but finding it im- 
 prafticable there, on account of the furf breaking high on every part 
 of the furrounding reef, we bore down to the next iflet, which is the 
 fouth-wefternmoft, and found it almoft as bad to land upon as that 
 which we had left. A fquall of wind and hea\y rain coming on, we 
 returned to the fhip, for fear any accident fliould happen to the boats. 
 About eight o'clock the weather cleared up, and we made a fecond 
 attempt, finding that by jeafon of the tide of ebb the furf had fallen 
 confiderably ; yet there appeared no place where wx could land the 
 boats with fafcty. Abundance of cocoa-nut trees covered the iflet, 
 and to get at them was our object ; therefore Otaheitean Tom, the 
 third mate, and one of the feamen, taking with them the end of a 
 line, leaped into the water and ventured into the furf, where, with 
 great difficulty, they efFeded a footing on the coral rocks which com- 
 pofe the reef, after getting their legs, arms, and different parts of 
 
 N 2
 
 92 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i.7g7- 
 
 their bouics, much cut with the iharp points of the coral. They had 
 ftill to walk near a quarter of a mile before they got to the dry beach, 
 lb that the fmall qviantity of cocoa-nuts which they could have brought 
 to the boat would not have been a recompcnce for the trouble of pro- 
 curing them ; but about half-ebb v/e obfcrved a fmall opening or 
 gutter in the reef, into which we rowed, and found it deep enough 
 for the boats to pafs clear over to the beach, where we could flep 
 out dry, and lie within fifty yards of the trees. We now applied 
 ourfelves to the obje6l in view, and foon fent both the boats offloaded 
 with cocoa-nuts, keeping the two Otaheiteans on fhore to climb the 
 trees, a tafk which they performed with much more cafe than we 
 could. The water had now fallen fo much, that on the return of the 
 boats they were obliged to lie at the outer edge of the reef, in a fmall 
 creek about ten yards wide and twenty long, and covered from the 
 force of the fea by the rocks projecling on each fide. They were 
 again loaded with cocoa-nuts, and grafs for the ufe of the goats ; and 
 it now being late in the evening wc returned on board, hoiftcd the 
 boats in, and made fail, having got in the courfc of the day five hun- 
 dred and thirty cocoa-nvits. 
 
 Palmerfton's ifland was difcovercd by Captain Cook on his fecond 
 voyage: it confifts of a group of fmall iflets, eight or nine in num- 
 ber, connefted together by a reef of coral rocks, and lying in a 
 dire<n:ion nearly circular. The iflet we landed upon is not a mile in 
 circuit, and at high water is not more than four or five feet above the 
 level of the fea. The foil is coral fand, with an upper ftratum of 
 blackifh mould produced from rotten vegetables. All the inner area 
 cf the irtct is covered with cocoa-nut trees, which decaying and falling 
 fucceffively form a thick underwood : without thefe, near to the 
 beach, are the wharra tree, and others of various forts. We faw 
 Taft numbers of men of war birds, tropic birds, and boobies. Among 
 the trees there was plenty of red crabs, dragging after them a IhcU 
 in form of a perriwinkle, but larger, being in diameter about two or 
 three inches; when they run along the ground they only put their
 
 Aprti..] to the SOUTII-SEA islands. g.'j 
 
 claws out, but when we touched them, they drew themichci wliolly 
 into their (hell. 
 
 We alfo faw the beautiful fubmarine grotto defcribed in Cook's 
 third voyage. " At one part of the reef which bounds the lake 
 *•' within, almoft even with the furfacc, there is a large bed of coral, 
 " which affords a moil enchanting profpeft. Its bafe, which is 
 " fixed to the fliore, extends fo far that it cannot be feen, fo that it 
 " appears to be fufpended in the water. The fea was then unruffled, 
 " and the refulgence of the fun expofed the various forts of coral in 
 *' the moft beautiful order ; fome parts luxuriantly branching into 
 '•' the water, others appearing in a vaft variety of figvires, and the 
 " whole heightened by fpangles of the richell colours, glowing from 
 " a number of large clams interfperfed in every part. Even this 
 " delightful fcene was greatly improved by the multitude of fifhes 
 " that gently glided along, feemingiy with the moft perfedl fecurity ; 
 " their colours were the moft ])eautiful that can be imagined, blue, 
 " yellow, black, red, &c. tar excelling any thing tliat ca-\ 'le pro- 
 " duced by art." This is the dcfcription which they give of this 
 grotto, and is nothing exaggerated, for it is certainly a great and 
 beautiful production of nature. We beheld it with pleafure, and 
 with them regretted, that a work fo aftonifhingly elegant lliould be 
 conceiiled in a place fo feldom explored by the human eye. 
 
 There are no traces of this ifland having ever been inhabited ; a 
 piece of a canoe lay upon the beach, probably the fame as was feen 
 by Gook's people, and which they conjecture might have drifted 
 from another ifland ; but as there are rats upon the ifland, which both 
 they and we faw, hence a query is fuggefted, how or by what Hieans 
 they could come to this place ? They fuppofe it might be in the 
 canoe, which is not at all likely, becaufe they afford hardly a place 
 of concealment for them ; and if there were men in the canoe, it is 
 very probable that they fuffered much from hunger, therefore it 
 would be abfurd to think they would not fcarch their canoe for every 
 hidden morfel ; or, finding a rat, to fuppofe they w^ould fpare it. It
 
 .Q4 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 is dsHibtlcfs more juft to conclude they were drifted here on feme 
 hollow tree or root, which being before their place of Ihelter, and torn 
 up by fomo tempcft, might be caft ujwn this fhore. 
 
 On \\'cdncfday the fifth of April we faw Savage ifland, but did 
 not get near it before dark. In paffing the north end we perceived 
 three lights, and on the well fide feven more ; by their motion we 
 fuppofed them to be on the water, and feeraingly in canoes a-fifhing. 
 The natives of this ifland fliewcd a ferocious and hoftlle difpofition to 
 Captain Cook and his people in 1774.. when he difcovered it; on 
 which accovmt he called it Savage ifland. His account of them fhews 
 the. danger of landing among any of thofe iflanders who have not 
 previoufly had intercourfe with Europeans ; alfo the abfolute neceflfity, 
 when obliged to land, of being able to repel them by force when at- 
 tacked. We ought to lay it down as a truth, that neither in places 
 already known, where the inhabitants have afted conflantly in a hoftlle 
 manner, nor yet in.new iflands which voyagers may dilcover, are the 
 natives to be trufted with the power of their lives ; for in general they 
 are fo tenacious of their territory and of their canoes, fo covetous of 
 all we poflefs, and under a perfuafion that all ftrangers are enemies, 
 that they will, either by force or cunning, aim at the lives of thofe 
 who are fb unhappy as to place any confidence in them, till fome 
 friendly intercourfe has been eftabliflaed. 
 
 We now fhaped our courfe for Tongataboo, and on our paflage 
 thither, fuch articles were forted out as it was thought the brethren 
 might with fome fafety take with them on their firft landing. On 
 Sunday the Qth, at ten A. M. we faw the land ; and at noon the 
 ifland of Eooa bore S. W. diftant feven or eight leagues. At half 
 paft four in the evening we tacked to the eaflward, the fmall ifland 
 of Eoo-aije bearing S. S. W. § W. diftant three miles, and then hove 
 to for the night, during which we had light winds and conflant rain. 
 At daylight, it continuing ftill dark and hazy, v^e could fee no land 
 until feven A. M. when it ceafed raining, and the weather gradually 
 clearing up, Eoo-aije bore W. and Eooa S. by W. ; the wind alfo
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. q5 
 
 veered in our favour from W. N. W. to N. by W. and frcfhenincr to a 
 brifk gale we flood in for the harbour of Tungataboo. The natives 
 of Eooa had obfervcd us the preceding day ; f(jr a canoe witli four 
 men, which muft lia\ e put off from that Ifland before da^Hght, was 
 now paddUng after the fliip. This circumftance gave us fomc plealure, 
 as it both evinced their defire for our articles, and a confidence in us. 
 
 Faffing to the northward of Eoo-aije, we ftecred W. S. W. to the 
 entrance, then W. by S. and W. up the harbour, followed by the 
 above canoe and fc\'eral others, which put off from the eaftern part 
 of the main ifland and the iflets th'at lie fcattered upon the reef. One 
 of the large failing kind, with about fixty perfons upon her platform, 
 kept clofe to windward of us, and proved hcrfelf the better failer by 
 running ahead with eafe, then flackening their flieet and failing aftern, 
 then running ahead again, andfo on; the fliip, at the fame time, going 
 i\x knots and a half by the log, topgallant-fails and ftayfails fet. It 
 appeared evident, that, had they chofen, they could have run at the 
 rate of feven knots and a half or eight knots an hour. 
 
 In failing into the harbour we kept the north reef on board, until 
 we came to the narrow channel which bends to the N. W. which 
 we got through after making two or three fhort tacks with the tide 
 flrong in our favour ; then running a little way further, paffma; Ma- 
 kahaa we hauled to the fouthward, and anchored in nine fathoms, on 
 a bottom of foft fand, about tiirec quarters of a mile from the fmal! 
 ifland of Pangimodoo, and moored with a flream anchor and cable to 
 the H. W. Once more, through a gracious Providence, fafe anchored ; 
 in ilio lia\cn where w:e w^ouid be...
 
 06 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE ^1707. 
 
 ~ CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Occurrences during the Jirjl Vifii to Tongcitihoo. 
 
 OUR Ibllowers were now all eager to come on board ; but though 
 we were willing to grant them every prudent indulgence, yet 
 they were too numerous to have free accefs : therefore about twenty 
 only were admitted ; and by placing fentrles along each fide of the 
 deck, we fucceeded in keeping the reft off, though very importunate 
 to be on board. The commodities they offered for barter confiftcd of 
 hogs, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, fpears, clubs (which none were 
 without), and various articles ingenioufly manufadlured ; but their 
 demands were fo high that but little was purchafed. Neither the 
 Swedes nor Otaheiteans could underftand what they faid more than 
 ourfelves, which not only incrcafed the difficulty of trading with fuch 
 fcrupulous dealers, but embarralTed us in no fmall degree to know- 
 how to fettle the more important bufmefs of the miffionaries. Alter 
 dinner, a chief named Futtafaihe was introduced to the captain, as a 
 perfon of great power in Tongataboo ; and indeed fuch he appeared : 
 he was about forty years of age, ftout and well proportioned, of an 
 open, free countenance, noble demeanour, and a gait ftately, or rather 
 pompous, for by it alone we fhould have taken him for a very great 
 man ; and by the attention with which he furveycd every objeft, he 
 appeared to poflefs an inquifitive mind. He talked a good deal in the 
 cabin, but all we could colled; from it was, that he was a great chief, 
 and that fome white men were on the ifland, and that he would 
 bring them with him on the following day. After the captain had 
 made him a prcfent of an ax, a looking-glafs, and fome other articles, 
 he took his leave ; and was hardly from the fliip when two Europeans 
 made their appearance ; they came alongfide without hcfitation, and
 
 Ai'RiL.J TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS 97 
 
 flipping on board with alacrity, gave us the unfpcakable plcafurc of 
 hearing our own language fpokcn by them ; a pleafure which proved 
 at once our neceffity of fuch inftruments, and our great diftancc from 
 home ; for in their countenance, one of them efj)ecially, there was fo 
 much of the villain marked, that in England a well-difpofcd perfon 
 would fliun them as he would a fvvindler or a pickpocket. However, 
 bad as they appeared to be, as they have to adl a part in future, 1 
 fliall infert their account of themfelvcs. One of them, named Benja- 
 min Ambler, fays, that he was born in the parifh of Shadvvell, Lon- 
 don ; and that his parents now keep a public-houfe in Cannon-Street. 
 He is a bold, talkative, prefuming fellow ; feems to fpeak the language 
 fluently, and fays that he learnt it with great facility. John Connelly 
 is a native of Cork in Ireland, by trade a cooper, and is far lei's talka- 
 tive than his comrade. Ambler fays that they left London in a fliip 
 called the Otter, in which they failed to America ; and there, for the 
 fake of better wages, left her to go in an American velfel bound to the 
 north-weft coafl on the fur trade. On their paffage outwards they 
 touched at the iilands of St. Paul and Amllerdam, where they made 
 fome flay, catching feals ; and proceeded thence to the Friendly 
 Iflands, in hopes of procuring rcfrefliments ; but having nothing but 
 old iron hoops to barter, the natives would not part with their hogs. 
 This induced thcfc two, and four more, to leave the fliip ; for their 
 fait provifions were lb bad as to be fcarcely eatable, and fo fcanty as 
 forced them upon a fliort allowance ; therefore, dreading their cafe 
 might foon be worfe, they requefled the captain to difcharge them. 
 This he accordingly did, and they landed upon Annamooka, where 
 another American vefTcl called foon afterwards, and being in w-ant ot 
 feamcn, engaged three of their number. An Irifliman named Morgan 
 remained at Annamooka, and they two had been about thirteen months 
 at Tongataboo. They are both young men, not exceeding the age 
 of thirty. 
 
 Ambler Informed us that Futtafaihe was a great chief, and prefided 
 over all the cailcrn part of the ifland ; but that there was an old man 
 
 e
 
 08 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGR [1797. 
 
 named Tibo Moomooe, of great power, and generally efteemed as 
 king over the ifland : at prcfent, they faid, he was in a bad {late of 
 health, for which rcafon he could not gratify his dcfire to come on 
 board when the Ihip firft carue to anchor ; but that he intended, if 
 poffible, to pay us a vifit on the morrow, or day following. From 
 their high praifes of this old chief, we underflood that humanity to 
 his people, and hofpltality to ftrangers, were predominant traits of his 
 character. This pleading account of the chiefs encouraged the captain 
 to mention to Ambler the purpofe of our vifit, the talents and charac- 
 ter of the miffionaries, their intentions of fervice and good-will towards 
 the natives, and to point out the certain benefits which the latter 
 would receive, if our people were fuffered to live unmolefted among 
 them ; at the fame time he requefted their opinion of men fettling at 
 this place with fuch views. To this he replied, that the natives would 
 certainly receive them gladly and treat them with kindnefs ; but re- 
 fpecfling property, they could give no affurance of its fafety. Connelly, 
 who feemed to fpeak with the greateft candour, exprcITcd the danger 
 their lives would be in if encumbered ^vith iron tools, they attempted 
 to defend themfelves from private robbers, which charadier might apply 
 to every, man on the ifland when fuch temptations lay in their way. 
 
 As for a houfe, they had no doubt but Tibo Moomooe would give 
 them one, and alfo prote<5l their perfons ; but were of opinion, that if 
 all the ten lived with one chief they would not be fo well fupplicd 
 with provifion as if they were to feparatc to different parts of the 
 ifland. This was nearly all that paflcd at this time, or indeed could, 
 until Tibo Moomooe was acquainted therewith ; for which purpofe 
 they now left us, firft promifuig to return in the morning with his 
 anfwer. 
 
 While this was paffing, a large double canoe approached, in which 
 were fevcral chiefs, who, either with a view of obliging us, or to Ihcw 
 their own arbitrary power, began driving the canoes from the fliip, 
 forcing them to the fliorc as faft as they could paddle ; fome had part 
 ©f their crews on board, and could not get fo quickly away, which the
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 99 
 
 cliiefs obferving, came at a great rate under the fhip's ftcni where they 
 lay, ran dircd; over one canoe, and, as we thought, would have hurt 
 the people, but by their dexterity in diving and fwimming they 
 cfcaped fate : the others iccmcd quite indifferent to what they had 
 done, and there being now nothing to obitru6t them, nor any farther 
 fport, they came alongfidc : one of them, a remarkably flout man, wc 
 were informed was admiral, or rather the navigator of their fleets, 
 when they go on expeditions to the other lllands ; another of note was 
 Feenou, who we luiderftood to be brother to him that was fo attached 
 to Captain Cook. Each of them received a prcfent, and in a fliort 
 time returned to the fliore, when the canoes again furrounded us to 
 trade, demanding for half a dozen cocoa-nuts what would purchafe a 
 hundred at Otahcite. On the approach of night they all left us very 
 quietly. 
 
 In the evening the captain and miffionarics held a meeting, where 
 it was agreed, that, if a favourable anfwer was received from Moo- 
 mooe, fome of the brethren fliould land as foon as poflible, to examine 
 the place, view the natives in their habitations, and fee how they were 
 likely to behave to them : after which they could more eafily deter- 
 mine what property it was fafe to take at firft, and aifo the propriety 
 of taking arms. 
 
 During the night heavy rain and fqualls of wind from the N. W. 
 
 nth. At daylight the large double canoe came alongfide again, 
 and in her fevcral of the chiefs who had vlfited us on the preceding 
 evening : thcfe brought two hogs and a few yams, I fuppofe, in 
 return for the prefent which they had received. They introduced 
 themfclves into the cabin without much ceremony, and fat quietly 
 while we brcakfalled : tea they refufed to take, but fome ate bifcuit 
 and butter with a feemingly good reliih. About ten o'clock in the 
 forenoon Ambler and Connelly came with a prefent of three hogs and 
 fome yams from Moom5oe, informing us that himfelf intended to 
 follow. Accordingly the venerable chief was very foon alongfidc, but 
 
 o 2
 
 lOo FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 was long before he dnri\ venture up the ladder, fearing he had not 
 ftrength fufficient for the tafk ; he at laft however made the trial, but 
 was fo exhauftcd thereby, that he was obliged to reft himfelf at the 
 gangway ; thence his attendants led him to the quarter-deck ladder, 
 where he again fat down, faying that he would not go before the cap- 
 tain till he was fliavcd : and to pleafe him in this, Mr. Harris began 
 the operation, and flnifhed it much to the fatisfacflion of this decent 
 cliief, who then faluted the captain, and entered the cabin, followed 
 by twenty-two attendant chiefs and fervants : thefe fquatted themfelv'es 
 tipon the floor, but the chief was placed in a chair, which he much 
 admired, thought he fat ealy in it, and, requcfting it as a prcfent, 
 had it immediately given to him. He attentively furveyed the cabin 
 and its furniture, expreffing his admiration of all he faw, and afklng 
 a number of very pertinent qucftions : as, of what wood were the 
 frames of the looking-glaflcs, fuppofmg apparently the whole to be 
 of a piece with the gilded outfide : the fame of the different coloured 
 painted woods. Nor did they feem to admire the beauty of the whole 
 more than the neatnefs of every part of the workmanfliip. They 
 examined minutely the jointing of the chairs and of the mahogany 
 table, and exprefled no fmall degree of aftonifhment at finding them- 
 felves fo far excelled ; for they cherifla an idea of being fuperlor to all 
 their neighbours. When told that the men we had brought to live 
 among them could teach them thofc arts, and alfo better things, they 
 feemed quite tranfported. This favourable opportunity the captain 
 improved, by mentioning every circumftance that could raife in their 
 minds an high idea of the miffionaries; interrogating Moomooe as to his 
 willingnefs for them to refide there, and alfo what provifion he would 
 make for them : to which he anfwered, that for the prcfent they 
 Ihould have a houfe near his own, until one more fuitable could be 
 provided ; they Ihould alfo have a piece of land for their ufe ; and he 
 would take care that neither their property nor perfons fliould be mo- 
 Icfted : adding, that, if they plcafed, they might go on llaore and exa-
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. lOl 
 
 mine the houfe, when, it' they did not hke the fituatlon, he would 
 order it to be removed to any fpot they preferred, for this he could 
 have done in a few hours. 
 
 For this purpofe I was fent in the pinnace, with Ambler and four 
 of the miffionaries, and landed about four miles to the weft ward 
 of where the fliip lay. The natives, as the boat approached, crowded 
 the fhore, apparently to gratify their curiofity only, for they all be- 
 haved peaceably, and futfered us to pafs along unmolefted. From 
 the beach we had to walk about half a mije, and when arrived at the 
 place, we found it furrounded by a fence of reeds fix feet high, 
 enclofmg three or four acres of ground : on which ftood five houfes, 
 two large and three fmall : the largeft, intended for the miffionaries^ 
 was thirty-fix feet long, twenty broad, roof fifteen feet high in the 
 middle, and floping to the fides till only four feet from the ground, 
 refling upon wood pillars, and open all round : the floor was raifed 
 about a foot, and covered with thick clean matting. On the infide 
 there hung to the crofs beams an anchor, about fix hundred weight : 
 they had made a Ihift to cut the ring out with hatchets, and fhared it 
 among the chiefs. It was of Englifli form, and probably the fame 
 Cook lofl in 1774, though Ambler informed us they had it from 
 Annamooka, where it v/as left by an American brig. 
 
 From this we pafTed to the other large houfe, which, we were told 
 by Ambler, was facred to the God of Pretane, and in this old Moo- 
 m5oe fleeps when indifpofed, in hopes to obtain a cure. On the floor 
 were four large conch-fhells, with which they alarm the country 
 In times of danger : and on the rafters w ere placed fpears, clubs, bows 
 and arrows, to receive from their imaginary deity, fupernatural virtue, 
 to render them fuccefsful againft their enemies. The whole of this 
 cnclofure, we underllood, was what the natives call an abey, of which 
 there are feveral ; it being their manner of laying out their dwellings, 
 and which is properly the freehold of the chiefs who occupy them. 
 
 Our bufinefs being done, we returned to the fliip, where we found 
 the natives taking their departure for the fliore. And in this interval
 
 i(!)2 riRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179;. 
 
 of rcll I'roni noire and tumult, the captain and miffionaries met to 
 v-onlult on what was now beft to be done. The latter had fecn the 
 houfe, appro\ed'of it, but thought the ground attached thereto too 
 fmall for their purpofcs of gardening and agricult\ire. Befides this 
 obje^ion, another and greater was, that Moomdoe, being an old man, 
 might foon die ; in which cafe, efpeciaily if they were efteemed 
 ufetul, a difpute might arife among the chiefs about whofe property 
 they Ihould be, or who fhould be their next prote6lor ; and were this 
 to happen before they had attained a knowledge of the language, they 
 would not only be in danger of being ftripped of their property, but 
 alfo of lofmg their'lives. A third objedlion was, that the chiefs mofl: 
 ufually refiding at Ahccfo, a place at the weft end of the ifland, and 
 drawing after them the greater part of the inhabitants, would in a 
 great meafurc fruftrate their ufefulnefs. Therefore it was only agreed 
 to go to this houfe, if they could do no better ; but firft to fend Ambler 
 early in the morning to Feenou Toogahowe, to propofe their refiding 
 wi,th him ; and, if he willingly embraced the offer, they would imme- 
 diately land with fuch part of their property only as they confidcrcd 
 it was abfolutely neceflary to take. 
 
 While Moomooe and the crowd of chiefs were in the cabin, they 
 regaled themfelves with a bowd of kava, which, though a delicious 
 treat to them, was fo difgufting to us, that we could not poffibly 
 go to dinner till they had finiflied, when it was near four in the af- 
 ternoon. 
 
 12th. By daybreak in the morning the canoes hurried off to the 
 fhip, endeavouring which fhould get ncareft, to trade. Among our 
 vifitors of note the firft was Futtaf aihe, who came early, bringing 
 Connelly with him, to fpeak to the captain to place five of the mif- 
 fionaries with him. But for the rcafons above mentioned, they would 
 not confcnt to live on this part of the ifland, nor to feparate, if poffible, 
 till they were better acquainted with the language and people : a 
 promifc to vifit him when they were fettled gave him but little fatis- 
 fad,ion.
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTM-bbA INLANDS. 103 
 
 At nine o'clock Ambler came off with T6o<7;aho\ve, who had already 
 agreed with the former to take all the brethren under his protcclion, 
 alio to give them a houfe, and the land attached to it, for their ufe. 
 Toogahowe, by Ambler's account, is the moft powerful chief in the 
 ifland ; is the grcatcft warrior, and in confequence thereof is not only 
 a terror to the chiefs of Tongataboo, but likewife to thofe of the 
 adjacent iflands, which he vifited not long ago in a hoftilc way, and 
 quickly brought them under fubjedlion. We were further informed 
 concerning him, that on the death of a certain chief, the widow of the 
 former Poulaho, rcfiding in Eooa, fent her fervant to poffefs the lands 
 which the dcceafed had occupied, and which now belonged by right 
 to her ; but before they arrived, Toogahowe had feized the property, 
 and refufed to deliver it up. The widow, who had many adherents, 
 proceeded to drive him off by force ; but the attempt failed on her part, 
 and gave Toogahowe a pretext for feizing all her poffeffions, and 
 driving her and her adherents from Tongataboo. Since that he has 
 held his neighbours in a flatc of fear ; infomucli that it is thought 
 when Moomooe dies he will be formally chofen into his place of 
 great chief, or king of the ifland. He is a flout man, and may be 
 about forty years of age ; is of a fullen, morofe countenance ; fpeaks 
 very little, but, when angry, bellows forth Avith a voice like the roaring 
 of a Hon. 
 
 As he came near to the fliip the natives readily made way for his 
 canoe, and behaved with fuch great awe in his prefence as tended to 
 confirm the account we had heard, and led us to confider him as the 
 rnofl: proper perfon under whofc protc<l:l.ion we might place the brethren 
 Ambler, as above mentioned, had already informed him of our defign ; 
 but for the fatisfadlion of the miffionaries, the captain, in their prefence, 
 with Ambler as interpreter, again recited every particular of our inten- 
 tions, and what we required of them ; obferving, that our fole induce- 
 ment to come fo far was to do them good, on which account we did 
 not think ourfelves under the leail obligation to them for permitting 
 us to fettle in their country, as was hinted the day before by Moomdoe;
 
 104 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179/. 
 
 but, oil the contrary, if they were unwllluig to receive our people on 
 the conditions mentioned, or were not defirous of their ftay, the cap- 
 tain's determination was, to depart in a friendly manner, without 
 landing a man. Toogahowe fecmed to underftand the greater part 
 of what was faid, and made anfwcr, that, if they chofe to land, they 
 might live there as they pleafed, and that nobody fliould hurt them ; 
 and in the afternoon he would fend a double canoe to take their things 
 on fhore. Howe^•er, though the chief comprehended what we deemed 
 fufficient for our prefent purpofc, it would be wrong to fuppofc, after 
 all our pains to make it plain, that he could have a conception of the 
 difmtereftcd views of the miflionarics, nor yet divcft himfclf of the 
 idea of conferring a favour, in receiving, and afterwards maintaining 
 them. 
 
 Ambler, with T5ogahowe, had not been long on board, when he 
 informed us of a dcfign, which, if ever put in execution, would 
 probably have ended the voyage, if not our lives, at this place. The 
 plot, he told us, was to attack the fliip, and at that moment every 
 man in eight large double canoes, and in many hundred fmgle ones, 
 were apprized of the intention, and prepared to joni as foon as the 
 attack commenced. This was alarming intelligence ; and though we 
 fufpeilcd it a forgery of Ambler's, yet it behoved us to credit it tiU 
 we had by fccret and expeditious means prepared to repel them. 
 Accordingly, tlie fmall arms were laid in rcadincfs, and the great 
 guns call loofe and loaded v.ith grape fhot, and every man at his 
 quarters. We then turned all the natives out of the Ihip, except 
 Toogahowe and his attendants, likewife ordered all the canoes from 
 alongfidc ; and they, obferving an unufual ftir upon the decks,- and 
 the guns levelled at them, obeyed rather hallily ; drawing up in a 
 range ahead and aftern of the fliip, where they lay in that manner a 
 confiderablc time, fcemingly in cxpcdlation of our firing a faliite to 
 divert them, as former navigators might perhaps have done. Finding 
 at laft that this was not what we intended, they wanted -to come 
 alongfidc again ; but only a few finglc ones were fuffercd to approach ;
 
 April.] TO THE SOUITI-SEA ISLANDS. 105 
 
 nor would wc ever after permit the double canoes alongfidc, nor to 
 make their rope fall to the fhip. 
 
 The truth of Ambler's information we could never learn. As for 
 the canoes lliccring off fo readily, and lying ahead and allcrn of the 
 fliip, as if no milchief had been intended, it 'is no proof of their 
 innocence, for cunning and indifference is the favage manner ot 
 ading till they arc openly dctcftcd. What offends them i.^ often of 
 fo trifling a nature, that, paffmg without our notice, their revenge 
 comes unexpected. It was faid that Feenou, who came in the large 
 double canoe when we firft anchored, was at the head of this plot ; 
 and his reafon for it, that he received nothing in return for a pig 
 which he brought us yefterday, which pig the captain had confi- 
 dered as a compenfation for what he received on his firft vifit : but 
 Feenou, when we faw him, flatly difowned ever having thought ot 
 doing us the leaft mifchicf ; however it gave us no fmall fatisfaclion 
 to fee the canoes difperfe, for they could not contain lels than three 
 thoufand men, each armed with a formidable club or fpcar ; fo that, 
 had they made a rufli upon our decks, where were only thirty undifci- 
 plincd men to oppofe them, they mufl have fucceeded. 
 
 Juft as this affair had fubfided, Moomooe called alongfidc with a 
 prefent of a few yams for the captain, requefting in return a glafs of 
 red wine, faying that what he drank the day before had been fervice- 
 ablc to him : a bottle was accordingly put into the canoe, and he im- 
 mediately left us. We were all much prejudiced in favour of this old 
 chief, and beheld with concern that he was hafting fall to that bourn 
 from whence no traveller returns. 
 
 Futtafaihc and Mytyle, two great chiefs, came down between decks.. 
 joined with us in our devotions, and followed all our attitudes in the 
 profoundeft filcnce. They would fain have engaged us to go with 
 them ; but at Ambler's perfuafion, and promife to learn us the km- 
 guage, we agreed to fix at his houfe. 
 
 In the afternoon the canoe came for the miflionaries' things, and 
 was immediately loaded ; Bowell, Buchanan, Gaulton, Harper, Shel- 
 
 p
 
 }oO FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [»7()7. 
 
 Icy, Vccfbn, and Wilkinfon, accompanied bv B. Ambler, embarked in 
 it, and proceeded weflward to a place called Ahecfo. A petty chief, 
 named Commabye, was ordered by Toogahowc to go with them and 
 iec that nothing was loft. Kelfo, Cooper, and Nobs, rcmaiaed on 
 board to prepare the reft of the things. 
 
 13th. This morning, finding the natives crowd about us as much. 
 as ever, and likely to be troublcfome, the ftream anchor was ordered 
 on board. A paffagc out of this harbour by the north was a defirablc 
 objed:, either in cafe of a ftrong eafterly wind or an attack from the 
 natiyes, when by cutting the cable an efcapc might be eftcfted : there- 
 fore tlic captain intended to go in fearch of it ; and accordingly wc 
 were under weigh by nine o'clock, and, with a fine breeze from the- 
 eaftward and clear weather, ftretchcd over towards the fmall ifiand of 
 Faftaa, into fix fathoms, broken ground ; then ftood towards Attataa, 
 foiulding as wc run along in twelyc, thirteen and fourteen fathoms, 
 until within two miles of the latter ifland, where, feeing the canoe 
 coming with fome of the brethren in her, we anchored in tViclve fa- 
 thoms, broken ground 
 
 About three o'clock in the afternoon flie got alongfidc ; three of the. 
 miffionarics were on board of her : they faid that Aheefo was farther 
 from the fliip than they at firft undcrltood it to be ; and the landing: 
 with goods was very bad, by reafon of a flat which runs from the 
 beach about half a mile, and over which they were obliged to wadc; 
 up to the knees ; and after they got to the beach had to go tunher 
 than a mile to reach the houfe ; difficulties which made the land-:ig: 
 of their things fo tedious, that fix hours were fully employed in, 
 houfing them fiife : this great trouble was in fome degree leflcned by 
 the natives. Their perfons were not molefted ; and though it was 
 dark not a fingle article of their property was loft. It was near one 
 in the morning before all was fafc, and the houfe loft to thcmfclves. 
 They then went to reft, refigning their pcrfbns and property into the 
 hands of their God ; and told us when they came next day, that they 
 rhcvcr flcpt founder in their lives. In the morning the natives providc(i
 
 AririT..] TO THE SOUTII-SLA fSLANDS. lOjT 
 
 a brcaktali ior them alter the nKuincr of tlic country. At nine j'clock 
 they fct off tor the ih\]), and, liaving the wind unfavourable, were 
 jull fix hours on their palTage. p\'cry thing was in readincfs ; there- 
 fore the canoe was immediately difpatchcd, leaving on board fufli- 
 cicnt for another ladlnc;. And that thev miaht have whatever was 
 thought for the prefeut neceflary, Buchanan and Nobs ftaid on board 
 to fee that fuch things were got in rcadinefs. 
 
 The cargo brought on fliorc was furrounded by a hundred pcrfons, 
 who alarmed brothers Harper and Kelfo ; but Mytyle ordered the 
 chcfts into a houfe near, and difmifled the people, threatening if any 
 man, during the night, approached toflcal, he fliould be put to death. 
 So the brethren lay down on mats, in perfect fecurity, till waked by 
 Mytyle, at one o'clock in the morning, to partake of an entertainment, 
 which h.c had provided, of filli, hot yams, cocoa-nuts, &c. 
 
 Before we weighed this morning a \v()man of rank paid us a vifit ; 
 flu; was attended by many chiefs, and a vaft number of females, who 
 were all officious in their care of the old lady, whofe amazing corpu- 
 lence rendered her coming on board rather difficult. After her there 
 came four llout fellows carrying a^bvuidlc of cloth, not quite fo large 
 but that two of them might have carried it with cafe ; this w-as prc- 
 fcntcd in form to the captain, who gave her in return fuch things as 
 fully fatisfied her. The fliip being under fail we could not be quite 
 fo attentive, to this great perfonagc, as, according to their ideas of 
 ceremony, they might expcd: ; however, any omiirion of ours they 
 found means to difpenfe with, by regaling thcmfclves in the cabin 
 over the kava bowl for about two hours, when Ihe was told that the 
 fhip had got a confidcrable diftance from her houfe : on this they 
 hafted into the canoe, and made fail for the fliorc. 
 
 The rcfpcd paid to this old lady, and to many of her fex in Tonga- 
 taboo, diftinguifhcs them from the i'ervilc condition to which females 
 are fiibjcfted in other fa\'age flatcs or tribes. Here they pofTcfs the 
 highcfl degrees of rank, and flipport it with a- dignity and firmnels 
 ei]ual to the men. 
 
 P 2
 
 108 FIKST JNIISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 Futtafaihe was on board mofl of the da)', and was ftill very impor- 
 tunate to have fome of the miffionaries with him. 
 
 Towards the evening the weather became dark and unfcttled, the- 
 
 wind alfo variable from the weftward, which, though not defirable 
 
 to us, was embraced by thofe who long for the night, that they may 
 
 put their dark -defigns in execution. About midnight a canoe with 
 
 four men was obferved lying a head ot the fliip, evidently for no good 
 
 purpofe, but, as we fufped:ed, to cut the cable, that the fliip might 
 
 drive upon the coral reef, which at this time was only a fhort half 
 
 mile aflern of us : however, as we had obferved them in time, we 
 
 determined to drive them off without firing fhot, and for that purpofe 
 
 the gunner and his watch mates laid a quantity of cocoa-nut hufks 
 
 upon the forecaftle. Prcfently, under cover of a fquall, they dropped 
 
 under the bow : without making the leaft noife for fear any of them 
 
 fliould get Into the water unfeen, and hurt the cable, a volley of the 
 
 hufks was poured on their heads, the fudden furprife of which caufed 
 
 them to leap into the water, fome fwimming one way and fome 
 
 another, whilft the canoe, totally deferted, drifted aflern : a mufket 
 
 was alfo fired over their heads, that they might know thofe infirru- 
 
 ments of terror were in readinefs by night as well as by day. As it 
 
 was very dark wc foon loft fight of the men, but thinking the canoe 
 
 would prove the circumftance to the chiefs, and lead to a difcovery 
 
 of the offenders, we therefore lowered the jolly-boat down and picked 
 
 her up. All the while it rained hard and blev/ frefh, and fometimes 
 
 wc could perceive the white furf breaking on the reef aftern; fo that, 
 
 had they fucceeded in their dcfign, which was doubtlefs to cut the 
 
 cable, then the fhip at Icaft muft have been lofl in confequencc of 
 
 their infatiable defirc for her lading. 
 
 14th. This difagreeable night was fucceeded by a morning altoge- 
 ther mild and pleafant ; and with a clear fky and gentle breeze wef- 
 tcrly, we got again under weigh in fearch of the northern pafTage, if 
 there was a faft one : and as Captain Cook, on entering in 1777> 
 flruck on rocks, and defcrlbcs the way they came as dangerous, wc
 
 Ai'uiL.J TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 109 
 
 explored farther to the weftv/ard. The wind veering to the north, 
 we had to ply, founding in ten, twelve, fourteen and fifteen fathoms, 
 broken ground ; an officer at the mail-head looking out for flioals : 
 on one fpot which fhewed white we had only fix fathoms. As wc 
 drew near to the outer reefs an eligible paffagc was obfcrvcd, for which 
 wc ftcered, and went fafc through, leaving only one of all the reefs 
 extending trom Attataa on our {larboard fide : this reef is of a trian- 
 gular form, and bears from FafFaa N.W. i N. ; and when clofe to it 
 on the inner fide, the north end of Attataa bears W. 35" S. and 
 Mallenooah E. 9" S. by the compafs ; and thence through the channel 
 the courfe is about W. N.W. 
 
 Confidering our diftance from the fbore, we expedbed to have but 
 few vifitors : on the contrary, feveral canoes followed us quite with- 
 out the reefs ; but, on account of laft night's adventure, none of them 
 were admitted on board except our conftant friend Futtafaihe, w ho 
 prefented the captain Avith a fine turtle : he expreffed great difappro- 
 bation of his countrymen's behaviour ; faid he knew the men, but as 
 they did not belong to the part of the ifland over which he prefided, 
 he could not punifli them. 
 
 Being now without all" the flioals, we ftcered towards the weft end, 
 to be nearer to the brethren, and at three in the afternoon the canoe 
 came alongfide ; Shelley and Cooper were in her. They reported all 
 was well ; that themfelves and thofe on fliorc w ere perfedlly content 
 with their fituation, and had abundant reafon to be thankful for the 
 favour which they experienced from the natives. The canoe was com- 
 pletely loaded with the laft of the things w^hich they had laid together 
 as fufficlent for their purpofes till our return ; but they altcrwards 
 thought a few boards might be of fervice in building a houfe more 
 fuitabic than that which they occupied ; as the canoe could not take 
 them, the captain agreed to wait till the next day : however, as they 
 had faws of every kind, there was no abfolute neceffity for the boards ; 
 and the Aveather being uncertain, we took an atFeClionate leave of the 
 brethren, promifing, notwithftauding, to w-ait till the following day
 
 110 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 it pollible, and for tlKit purpofe made iliort tacks without the reefs for 
 moll of the nitrht. The wind N. N.W. a frcfli eralc. 
 
 1 5 th. At four in the morning we reefed the topfails, and tacked 
 to the N. E. ; at fix tacked again to the wcllward. By this time tlic 
 wind had increafed to a hard gale, which forced us to relinquilh the 
 defign of llaying longer : our fituation had now become fo critical, 
 by the nmd blowing direct upon the reefs, that our concern was 
 how to clear the Ifland beft upon cither tack : to cfFed this, we kept 
 our ftretch t<)\vard^ the wcllward of the illand, and expeiiled to go 
 clear ot all danger ; but as we approached within three or four miles 
 ot the point, bearing then about three points of the compafs upon our 
 lee bow, wc faw heavy breakers ahead. In this cafe, to bear up in 
 hopes of a pailcigc between the reefs and the point, was rilking a dif- 
 appointment which muft inevitably prove fatal, as wc fliould then 
 have nc; (jffing to return ; therefore we tacked, to try if ^^e could 
 weather the north-eaft reefs, but foon perceived this to be impoflible. 
 The gale had increafed ib much, that we could hardly carry double- 
 reefed topfails, and we found the fliip was driving fail towards the 
 rects ; fo that by the time we were abreafl of Attataa, we faw plainly 
 that, except we could fetch the pailage we had found out the day be- 
 torc, nothing remained but fliipwreck. Providentially we juft wea- 
 thered the reef on the Avefl fide of the channel by two or three fhips 
 lengths, and running through with aiTurance were foon once again in 
 Jafcty, thankful for fo fignal a deliverance. 
 
 We were now in the harbour, but ha\ing no fufficient reafon to 
 anchor in fo hard a gale, which alfo blew fair for us to proceed to the 
 fouth-cail on our voyage, we fteercd for the eallern channel out of 
 the harbciur, and were once more alarmed with dancer : for in run- 
 ning through the narrow paffage betwixt Moonafai and Makkahah, 
 by not hauling to the caflward in time, we nearly ran upon the 
 rocks. This was occafioncd by the flying clouds through which the 
 fun brcjkc at intervals, and formed very dclufory appearances upon 
 the water. The captain was aloft looking out, and thought he iiivv a
 
 ArniL.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. ] i ^ 
 
 fhoal on the larboard bow ; !ic called tt) port the helm, but the 
 appearance vanllhing, he ordered it a-ftarboard. That inftant v/c 
 found ourfclvcs clofe to the Ice reef, and running direcflly for it. The 
 fiiip was Hill under the influence of the port helm, therefore we put 
 it hard down that way, and in a few fcconds flie was dole to the 
 wind on the {larboard tack, the reef fcarce twenty yards to leeward 
 of her, and about half a cable's length to run before wc muft heave 
 her in ftays, and upon her not mliring, her fafcty depended. The 
 crew exerted thcmfcivcs, got the niizen fet, and wc had the joy to 
 fee her come abou: on the other tack, check the current upon the Ice 
 bow, and foon afterwards clear of danger and in good fca-room ; 
 then ilecring betwixt Ebo-aije and Eooa, we proceeded to make the 
 beft of our way to the Marqucfas. Thus,. after perils the moll immi- 
 nent, and' providential deliverances the moil: evident, wc were pre- 
 ibrved in health fir the accomplifhment of the work appointed us to 
 db, and had planted a feed of divine truth which, we hope, will take 
 root and flourifli to the lateft cencrations.
 
 11 a FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179;. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 fhyage to the Marqiiefas. — Difcover'ies made. — Tranfai^ions at 
 
 Qhrljl'iana. 
 
 HAPPILY extricated from the dangers which furrouuded us in 
 Tongataboo harbour, and once more pafTed into the open fea, for 
 the firft five days we had favourable winds, which fliortencd our 
 dillance about eight hundred miles ; but afterwards, during moll of 
 the time that we were to the fouthwardof the tropic, we experienced 
 fucceffive gales from the eaftward, with high feas and raw cold 
 weather. The higheft latitude we Hood in was 39° "' S. where we. 
 expeftcd to find the winds prevail more wefterly, but there was not 
 the Icaft appearance of it ; only we had much worfe weather, and 
 the fliip w'as fuffering in her fails and rigging : therefore we tacked 
 to the northward into a more genial climate, and kept in about the 
 latitude 30° S. embracing every opportunity to get to the eaftward. 
 
 The cold weather affed;ed our Otaheiteans very much ; the boy 
 Harraway, however, kept up his fpirits ; Tanno Manoo alfo behaved 
 very well ; Ihe had got clear of her fea-ficknefs, and by conducting 
 herfelf in a modcft, affable, and obliging manner, was kindly treated 
 by all on board : fhe was alfo of a good natural underllanding, evi- 
 dently fufccptible of improvement, and always ready to communicate ; 
 and was of great fervice to Mr. Crook and others who were learn- 
 ing the language ; for by her means many of the fhibbolcths of the 
 Swedes' pronunciation were correti^cd, and better explanations givert 
 of the words. The captain gave her a warm week-day drefs, and a 
 ihewy morning gown and petticoat for the Sundays ; and as fhe 
 always kept hcrklf clean, when drefifed fhe made a very decent 
 appearance ; taking more pains to cover her breafts, and even to 
 keep her feet from being fcen, than moil of the ladies of England
 
 May.] to the SOUTH-SEA islands. in 
 
 have of late done. Tom was under tlic grcatcft apprchcnfioiis, and 
 %vas fully pcrfuadcd that he lliould die before he again reached Ota- 
 hcite : in one of the gales he afked the captain if the lliip would not 
 die : indeed, during moft of the paiTagc he was very low-fpiritcd, 
 and fuffcred more than the others from the cold. We could teach 
 him nothing, and could hardly perfuadc him to take any cxercife ; 
 •while Harraway became a very ufeful boy in the fhip, could \indcr- 
 ftandalmoft any thing that was faid, and would run to do ^vhat he 
 ■was defired with great readinefs. Crook taught him the alphabet ; 
 alfo to read feveral fliort words in the Otaheitean language, of which 
 he printed a few for the purpofe. Thus much I have thought fit to 
 mention concerning them, becaufe I think both Harraway and Tanno 
 Manoo are proofs that the Otahciteans taken young, and kept frorti 
 being held up as fhews by us like Omai, and from the infatuating 
 diverfions of their own ifland, arc capable of receiving Inftrudion. 
 However, thefe two were rather too old ; they had heard and be- 
 lieved the flories their countrymen arc ufed to relate ; and perhaps 
 all rcafoning whatever would be impoflible to remove the prejudices 
 inculcated by thole flories, till the Spirit of God gives convi(9;ion to 
 the confcience. 
 
 On the IQth of May the obfervcd diflancc of the fun and moon 
 gave the longitude 223° 5' E. ; the chronometer, at the fame time, 
 222" 49' E. On the 23d we dilcovcred land; at eight A. M. the 
 extremities of a low ifland bore from W. 25° S. to W. 32' S. diftant 
 about five leagues ; and a high hummock, at a great dittancc, bore 
 W. 3" S. ; and another higher W. 2" N. This being a new difcovery, 
 we tacked a little before noon, on purpofe to take a nearer view. 
 Latitude at noon 23° 8' S. long. 225° 40^ E. There being fcarcely 
 any wind, we made our approach but flowly, {o that night came on 
 before we got near ; therefore we fliortened fail, and lay by till the 
 morning. 
 
 24th. At daylight we flood tow^ards the land, and as wc drew
 
 114 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 near found it very low and in form of a crefcent, with a lagoon in 
 the middle, into which the fea broke in feveral parts of the fouth-weft 
 fide, though no opening appeared that would admit a boat. We 
 perceived that it was inhabited ; therefore, when within a mile of 
 the north-eaft fide, we hove the fhip to, and putting two feamen in 
 the jolly-boat, Mr. Wm. Wilfon and Mr. Falconer, with Peter and 
 Otaheitean Tom, who drcffed himfelf for the occafion in a piece of 
 his own new cloth, rowed towards the ihore intending to land 
 if the natives were friendly ; and as a means of ingratiating our- 
 felves into their favour, took beads, looking-glalTes, and iron tools ; 
 alfo fome Englifla coin, to leave as a tcflimony of our vifit. But on 
 our vipproach they collected thcmfelves in a body to oppofe our land- 
 ing. As they walked along the fliore, the women followed with fpears, 
 the only weapons we faw ; thefe they fhook in a threatening manner, 
 and made figns for us to be gone. Tom flood up, fhewed them his 
 fkin, his cloth, and tattou marks ; and fpoke to them in his lan- 
 guage, which they fcemcd not to underftand. Intent on their fafety 
 only, and the defence of the barren fpot they inhabited, they a<fted as 
 if we were known enemies, viewing us with little curiofity or afiio- 
 niflimcnt. Finding that all our manoeuvres to conciliate them had 
 no effeft, and that even to approach fufficiently near to give them 
 any thing would expofe us to a ftone or a fpear, and perhaps oblige us 
 to fire upon them, we returned to the fhip, and hoifting the boat up, 
 fleered for the higher ifland, which bears from this W. N.W. about 
 nine or ten leagues. 
 
 This was named Crefcent ifland, on account of its form ; it is fix 
 or feven miles in circumference, and lies in lat. 2 3^ 22' S. long, 
 225° 30' E. 
 
 There were many of the wharra trees upon it, and fome others of a 
 ufclefs kind. The fliore is grey coral fand and ftones thrown up by the 
 violence of the fea, forming a wall at the fouth-caft point about 
 twenty or thirty feet above the furfacc : on this point there were three
 
 May.] to thk soutii-sea Inlands. 115 
 
 piles of coral floncs ; two were biiilt round and fniall, and one fquarc, 
 the fides of which might be about twelve feet, and fix in height, with 
 a hole at one fide fccmingly to creep in at. 
 
 The natives whom we faw, were twenty-five in number, Including 
 three or four women carrying children at their backs ; and thcfc pro- 
 bably were all tliat arc on the ifland. They arc of a light copper colour 
 and of middling Itature ; there is a fimilarity in the accent of their lan- 
 guage to the other iflanders with whom we are acquainted, but the 
 daflfmg of the fca againft the Ihore prevented Tom from hearing {o 
 (Jiftinftly as to underftand them. 
 
 Some were quite naked, except a piece of cloth round their middle ; 
 
 others had a large piece of cloth thrown over their lliouldcrs, and 
 
 "reaching half way down the leg : one, who perhaps was the chief, 
 
 wore a piece of very white cloth round his head in form of a turban. 
 
 We could not perceive they wore any ornaments. 
 
 Upon what they fubfifted it was difficult to imagine, for they neither 
 have bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, or any fruit-tree, whatever ; nor could 
 we, with the whole ifland in view, fee one canoe wherewith to fifli ; 
 fo that they muft either be tranfient vifitors from the high ifland, or 
 if permanent fettlers, and in any degree fenfible of their fituation, 
 muft be miferably wretched indeed. 
 
 It was noon when we left Crcfcent ifland, and foon after we had a 
 frcfh breeze northerly, attended with fqualls and rain, which lafted 
 about an hour, then cleared up, and gradually declined to little wind ; 
 fo that for a while we made but little way. At three P. M. a gale 
 fprung up at E. S. E. and it again became hazy with rain. We 
 diredcd our courfe W. N.W. towards, an ifland with two high hills 
 that lie contiguous to each other, and are fo lofty as to be difcovered 
 when diftant fourteen or fifteen leagues. Thefe, for diftindtion's 
 fake, were named Duff's mountains. 
 
 When within three leagues, we faw a reef ahead, and the fea 
 breaking very high upon it : this obliged us to alter our courfe to 
 N. N.W. which we expcded would lead us clear of every danger 
 
 Q. 2
 
 116 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i797-. 
 
 which lay on the eaft fide of the illand ; but in this we were mif- 
 taketi ; tor after running thus about an hour we had a better view, 
 and it appeared that Duff's mountains were part of an ifland about 
 three leagues in length, with feveral of confiderable height and 
 extent to the fouth and fouth-eaft of it ; the whole forming a group 
 fi^'e or fix leagues long, lying in a direftlon nearly N. E. by N. and 
 S. W. by S. ; and a reef which lies off about three miles from the main 
 illand, and probably encircles the whole as a defenfive barrier, ex- 
 tended as far each way as we could fee with the eye. Upon this reef' 
 were feveral dry fpots, upon which clullers of trees grew, and ap- 
 peared like fo many fmall low iflands without the higher ones. It 
 was now the dulTc of the evening, and we had one of thofe half- 
 drowned fpots .-vliead, bearing N. W. by N. and others in fight beyond 
 it ; and uncertain what dangers more might lie in our way, it was 
 refolved to fpend the night within the fpace we already knew ; and 
 accordingly we hauled our wind to the N. E. under an ealy fail. The 
 natives on the north end of the illand had obferved our approach, 
 and they, to alarm their countrymen, as foon as it was dark made a. 
 large fire, which at times prefented a, very curious phenomenon, ap-^ 
 pearing like fix or feven detached lights, then -prefently joining fhewed 
 as if the fide of a mouritain was wholly in a blaze. This light, which 
 tliey kept burning till near daybreak, proved a real benefit to us as a. 
 guide ; for the night was very dark, with variable winds and fqualls 
 and heavy rain. 
 
 At fix in the morning the north part of the iflands bore N. W.. 
 diftant two or three leagues ; when, with a frefli gale from the N. E. 
 we fleered W. N .W. clofe to the reefs ; and From this ftation obferved 
 it to trend fouth about five miles, then to the S.W. farther than wc 
 could fee : thence v,e hauled towards the northernmoft part of the 
 reef, where was a fmall iflet, upon which, were affembled about fifty, 
 natives armed with ipears, and as wc paffed the place where they 
 fiiood, within a (juarter of a mile, we obferved boys taking ftones 
 off the beach, and making gcllures as if they would throw them
 
 jVUy.J to Tin: SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 117 
 
 at lis: the nica aJfo Ihcwing marks oi a hollilc dlfpofition, walked 
 along the fliorc to keep abreaft ot" the fhip, but as we left them fait 
 they retired bchuid the trees. Thcfe trees leemed to be of the fame 
 worthlefs kind as thole at Crefcent iflund ; the natives alfo, in colour, 
 feature, and drefs, exa<5lly the fame as thofc we faw there. We ob- 
 ferved no canoes, though it is moll probable they have Ibn-ie, as thefc 
 people mull have come from the high ifland either in a canoe or by 
 wading, which latter feems impracticable. The main ifland, and 
 thofe fcattcred about it, are, as before noticed, all high, and the 
 reef keeping the fea quite ftill about them, they prefent a \'iew ro- 
 mantic, wild, and barren : the valleys, how^ever, appear covered- with 
 ti'ees, but of what kind we could not perceive, though fomc faid 
 they could dillinguifh. cocoa-nut trees ; and it is certainly likely thej 
 fliovdd have the fruits and roots common to the other illands, and 
 mull have abundance of fifli. 
 
 The tops of the hills, to about half way down, are chiefly covered 
 with fun-bunit grafs ; and in fonie places there are fpots of rcddilh 
 foil as on the middle grounds of Otahcitc. 
 
 The group was named Gambler's illands, in compliment to the 
 "worthy admiral of that name, who, in his department, countenanced 
 our equipment. Duff's mountains, which lie in the centre, are in 
 lat. 23" 12' S. and in long. 225° E. 
 
 We had now got fufficient calling, and were in the way of the 
 trade-winds, therefore kept on our courfe to the northward ; all on 
 board in good health, and in no real want of any thing. But as the 
 palTage from the Friendly Kles had already, been longer than we ex- 
 pedied, the captain thought it ncccllary topulh on for the Marquefas; 
 and on this account, though we had rcalbn to fuppofe ourfelves in a 
 dangerous part of the ocean, we run. by night as. well as day; only 
 put the fliip under a proper fail for altering our courfe on any fudden 
 emergency. 
 
 20th. At hall pall five in the morning, jult as the day broke, 
 we thought wc law low land ahead, and Iceming to be very clofe,.
 
 118 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 wore lliip and llood from it about a quarter of an hour, then tacked 
 towards it again, when the day prefented to our view the imminent 
 danger we had efcapcd. "For that part which we were running for, 
 and many others, were even with the water's edge, the fea walhing 
 over them into the lagoon ; and it is very probable, that, had the 
 weather been hazy, or the day not fo near, we might have ftnack 
 before we either faw the rocks or heard the lea beat upon them, as it 
 made but little noife. The ifland is in length about feventeen miles 
 from eaffc to weft, and in breadth about eight or nine miles : and 
 upon the reef which enclofes the lagoon, there are fcveral clumps 
 of trees, but no cocoa-nut or other fruit-trees that we could fee, nor 
 any fign of inhabitants. This ifland, lying in lat. 2l" 30' S. by 
 obfervation, and in long. 224^ SO' E. by chronometer, is probably 
 the fame called Lord Hood's ifland by Captain Edwards, who dif- 
 covered it in the Pandora, 17th March 179I. We continued our 
 courfe, and in two or three hours were out of fight of it. In the 
 dufk of the evening of the following day we thought that we faw 
 high land on our lee beam ; but judging that to run down to put the 
 matter out of difpute would be taking us too mvxch to leeward, we 
 left it for fome future navigator to determine. However, if it really 
 be an ifland, it muft lie nearly in latitude 20"" 30'' S. and about the 
 longitude of 223° 18' E. 
 
 28th. At noon we obfer\-ed in latitude 18° 34' S. and about three 
 in the afternoon difcovered another low ifland bearing N, E. As it 
 is not laid down in any of the charts, and the wind at N. W. being 
 againft us, we kept our ftretch towards it, and as we drew near found 
 it a lagoon ifland, with patches of trees on different parts around it. 
 On the north -weft end cocoa-nuts were growing, and near them a 
 clump of lofty dark-coloured trees. Two clumps alfo of the fame 
 kind ftood at a little diftancc from each other on the fouth-caft part: 
 thefe laft we named Turk's Cap and Friar's Hood. 
 
 At half paft leven o'clock we tacked within a mile of the north 
 end, then took the topgallant-fails in, hauled the courles up, and
 
 Mat.] to the SOUTH-SEA islands. iiy 
 
 during the night made fliort tacks under the topfliils. In the morn- 
 ing, the 2yth, we found ourfelves farther off than we expe6lcd, 
 owing to the leewardly current ; and the wind clianging to N. N. E. 
 with our larboard tacks aboard we flood in, and at eight o'clock 
 had the fouth part of the ifland bearing E. i N. diftant three miles. 
 Shortly after it fell little wind, and we lowered the jolly-boat down, 
 rowed clofo to the fhore, and tried to effcd: a landing, but found it 
 imprafticable, on account of the high furf which beat upon the coral 
 rocks. Suppofmg we might find a better place, we >rowed along 
 fhore two or three miles, till we came to the fouth-eaflfide, but had the 
 mortification to find it every where the fame, therefore we returned 
 to the fhip. Obferved at noon in lat. 1 8° 24^ S. ; the extremes of 
 the ifland from N. m'' W. to N. 5f/' W. We had feen no figns of 
 inhabitants, and hav^ing loft hopes of finding a landing-place, the, 
 captain had determined to leave this ifland and proceed on our voyage 
 as fafl as the unfavourable winds we then had would permit. 
 
 In the courfe of the night we had pafled to windward of the ifland, 
 and at fix in the morning had the north-eaft end bearing S.W. by S. 
 and the fea being then fmooth encouraged a hope of procuring a 
 few cocoa-nuts for our people, and herbage for the goats. There- 
 fore we again fliaped our courfe towards it ; but, before we came 
 near it by four miles, it fell almoft calm ; fo that, as the lliip AN^ent 
 but flowly down, we hoifled the pinnace out, and I, with the third 
 officer and a boat's crew, with Peter and. Tom, fet off in her. 
 When w^e had got about a mile round the point, all in the boat 
 (except one man and myfelf, who were but indiffei'ent fwimmers) 
 got into the water and effected a landing, though the furf was 
 very high. From the edge of the reef they ' had to wTdk about a 
 furlong, vip to the knees in water, over a hard coral flat, before they 
 came to the trees : and w hile they were gone, I fliot three or four 
 man of war birds, and tried to catch fome of the beautiful fifli Aviiich 
 fwam without the furf, but they were too fhy of the bait. Sharks 
 of various fizes were very numerous.
 
 320- TIKST MISSIONARY VOYAGE []'j<i'i. 
 
 At noon they obfcrved at the ilaip in 18° \A' S. the north-weft end 
 bearing S. S. W. § W. a mile and a half; and an hour after, in 
 rounding .the point not more than a cable's length ofF.fliore, founded 
 with ninety fathoms of line, but found no bottom. 
 
 We had already hauled off a few cocoa-nuts ; but this method was 
 fo tedious, that all we could procure by it would not repay the trouble. 
 But juft about this time it was low water, and the furf fell remark- 
 ably, fo that by putting the boat's ftern to the rocks I ftepped out, 
 without fo much as wetting my feet. This both encouraged thofe on 
 Ihore to go on, and being obferved from the fhip, induced them to 
 fend the jolly-boat with more hands to affift us. And now we were 
 in hopes of getting a plentiful fupply without difficulty or danger ; 
 ignorant that it was poffible only at low water thus to pafs and repafs. 
 This we A^ ere to learn afterwards by unpleafant experieiice. 
 
 The land at this end of th^ ifland is about three fvirlongs in breadth; 
 upon it the only cocoa-nut trees groAv, and upon that fide next the 
 lagoon, confequently the fartheft off from us. The way to them, by 
 paffnig through the other trees, is alfo very rough and bad ; but by 
 fearching, we fovmd a pleafant road along the fide of a creek, leading 
 from the fea into the lagoon, and fufficient in depth to admit the 
 jolly-boat, when the tide was up. Therefore this was propofed as our 
 plan : to get as many nuts as poffible before four in the afternoon, and 
 then bring the boat in for them. 
 
 Accordingly, by that time we had got about three hundred ; but, 
 contrary to our expeftations, as the tide role the i'urf incrcafed to fo 
 great a degree as to render it almoft impoffiblc cither to get them or 
 ourfelvcs fafely through it. However, to put it to the trial, the jolly- 
 boat was brought abreaft of the creek, and by watching an opportu- 
 nity was rowed through the furf, but not without ftriking on the 
 rocks, by which we knew ther,e was no chance for the pinnace to get 
 in. As there were thirteen of us on Ihore, the fmall boat was infuffi- 
 cient to carry off the whole. To make it ftill worfe, we faw the wind 
 Tvas increafmg, and the fky becgme overcaft with dark clouds. There-
 
 !v1ay.] to the S0UTII-SK/\ islands. I'il 
 
 fore, being thus critically fituatcd, it was adopted as the mofl prudent 
 plan for thofe who could fwim but little to make the firft attempt in 
 the jolly-boat, and for the others to flay on fliore all night, and in 
 fwini off to the boats in the morning. Accordingly, four of our numbtvr 
 were pitched upon to make the effort, and they probably would have 
 Succeeded, had not two others, who thought themfehcs as bad fwim- 
 mers as any, jumped in, and thereby making the boat too deep, Ihc 
 grounded on the rocks, where the fea broke, and filling her, it was 
 •with difficulty they got back into fmooth water. This failure damped 
 dl our fpirits, as we were very anxious to have fome more hands on 
 board to work the fliip, Icfl.flie fliould be blown to leeward, and not 
 be able to get up to us again. Thus urged by neccffity, the third 
 officer, with two men, made a fecond attempt, and fucccedcd, but not 
 withovit being again half filled with water. When clear of the furf, 
 they rowed to the pinnace, and both returned to the fliip, to inform 
 the captain of the difagreeable news of myfclf and nine more, including 
 the two Otaheiteans, being left on the ifland. 
 
 Our fltuation on fhore was extremely uncomfortable and alarming; 
 however, to make the beft of it, after feeing the boats fafe off, wc 
 walked up to the large clump of trees, and being thinly clothed and 
 quite wet, we endeavoured to make a fire ; but after Otaheitean Tom 
 had tried two hours in vain for a light by fridlion, we were reduced 
 to the neceffity of paffing the night without a fire. About ten o'clock 
 it began to rain very hard, and continued till three in the morning, 
 when there was a fhort interval of fair weather, and then conftant rain 
 till near noon the next day. To all this wc were expofed, for the 
 trees afforded us fhelter only till the branches were completely wet, 
 and this was very foon ; fo that I was apprehenfivc of fc\ ers at leafl 
 being the confequence of this drenching ; but, to leffen its elfeds, 
 requcfled the men to walk about, and keep in motion, which they 
 did, and cheered each other by faying they fomctimes fliw the iTiip's 
 
 light. 
 
 R
 
 12'2 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 sift. At daybreak the lliip flood clofe in, and the captain, who 
 was very anxious for our fafety, fent the pinnace to try and get us off ; 
 but with concern we beheld the furf higher than on the preceding 
 night, which obliged us to remain and wait the opportunity low 
 water might afford, falling out on this day about one o'clock in the 
 afternoon. They accordingly put back to the fliip, and prefently 
 after came again to the edge of the furf, wdien one man leaped in and 
 got fafe to us w'ith a bottle of brandy, which was of great fervicc in 
 raifing the drooping fpirits of the people, who had fpent fb bad a 
 night, and had ftill a difficult tafk to perform. This done, the boat 
 put off again, and about ten o'clock returned with a ftagc made of 
 fir deals, with direftions from the captain to bring the boat to a 
 grapnel as clofe to the furf as they could wath fafety, and then, after 
 making a rope fall to the ftage, to veer it aflaore within our reach, 
 when we were to get upon it and be hauled through the furf, one or 
 two at a time, Mr. Falconer was in the boat, and did as dired:ed ; but 
 the back fweep of the fea prevented the ffage from even entering the 
 fxiri', fo that we were ftill in the fame fituation as before. Thus dif- 
 appointed, we walked along the fhorc, to try if any better place could 
 be difcovered, the boat following abreafl of xis ; but we found it alike 
 dangerous. At one place two of us tried to fwim off to the llage, but 
 were wafhed about, and nearly daflied to pieces againft the rocks, be- 
 fore the reft could help us ovit. 
 
 Low water was faft approaching, and nothing no wremaincd but a 
 chance of getting off at the place where I Hepped on fhore at the firfl^ 
 Wc accordingly returned thither, but were greatly difheartcned to find 
 it as bad as every other place : wc refolved, however, to watch till the 
 time of low water was over ; certain that if no opportunity offered 
 then, we mud content ourfclves where we were, and that perhaps for 
 months, as the fliip was now driving faft to leeward. Low water at 
 laft came, but the fea was ftill fo rough that Otahcitean Tom, Mr. 
 Crook, and fomc more, walked up in defpair towards the clump of
 
 May.] to the SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 123 
 
 trees, to try if poffiblc to procure fome dry wood, with which to get a 
 Hght and a fire, which they flood much in need of, being wet and cold^ 
 the wind blowing through their thin clothing. But, to our great joy, 
 they were fcarccly gone, when the fea at intervals became fmooth ; 
 one man got off to the flagc, and was hauled to the boat. We in- 
 llantly called them to us, and by embracing every opportunity, fwim- 
 niing to the llaec one by one, we at length got all fafc off. On trying 
 to haul the grapnel up, wc found it had fallen into the hollows of the 
 coral rocks, which obliged us to cut the rope and leave it behind. 
 Thefe hollows add greatly to the danger of fwimming off to the boats, 
 for if the fca forces up or retires fuddcnly, there is a riik of falling into 
 them and being hid under great flakes of the rock. The dread of this, 
 and of drowning in the furf, baniflicd from our thouirhts the fharks 
 which fwam thick about the place. We now row^cd towards the Ihip, 
 which had drifted about four miles to leeward. The captain was 
 overjoyed to fee us, as were all the crew. The boat was hoifted in, 
 and we made fail, fully determined ne^'er again to venture a landino- 
 upon one of thofc low half-drowned iflands, except obliged thereto by 
 want or other abfolute ncceffity. 
 
 This received the name of Serle's ifland, in compliment to a 2;en- 
 tlcman of that name now in the Tranfport office, and author of 
 Horse Solitaria: and other valuable works. The latitude of its centre 
 is 18" ] 8' S. long. 223° E. ; it is in length from S. E. to N. W. feven 
 or eight miles, and in breadth four or five ; it has a lagoon in die 
 middle, where wc obfer^-cd feveral fmall rocks above water. The reef 
 without and the lagoon within abound with fifli, feveral of which 
 were of the moft richly varied and beautiful coloiirs that can be con- 
 ceived. As Mr. Robfon walked by the fide of the lagoon in the nif ht. 
 he obferved thoufands of young fliarks fwimming clofe to the fliore. 
 Mullet are very plentiful, and when low water left part of the reef dr}-, 
 feveral fpotted eels iffued from holes, and on our approach reared 
 upon their tails, attempting to defend themfelves with open mouth. 
 The birds wxrc the fame as at the other low iflands ; and bcfides 
 
 R 3
 
 124 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 there was here a bird about the fizc and colour of a lark, which we 
 had not feen before ; and during the night we hccU-d one whiftle like 
 and equal to a blackbird : indeed, by their various notes, there was 
 reafon to fuppofe this place gave fhelter to may different fpecies, with 
 this peculiar feature, that they fung almoft all- the night long, though 
 it rained and was very dark. We faw fome rats, plenty of the red 
 (fliell) crab, and a kind of land lobfter, which even the OtoJieiteans 
 were ftrangers to. 
 
 The trees are various as at Palmerflon's ifland ; but the cocoa-nuts 
 are fcarce here, and only found on the north-wefl end : thofe whicb 
 form the clumps are peculiar : they grow about flxty feet high, with, 
 large trunks from 'four feet to four or five yards in circumference, 
 dividing about half way up into large branches, with a broad dark 
 green leaf. As the foil is very thin, many of thcle trees bad fallen, 
 their branches had taken root, and were again grown up to five or 
 fix trees as large as the old one. The wood appeared to be of no ufe 
 but to burn. Under flielter of this grove there was regularly built a 
 moral of flones, with one ftone at a little diftance placed upright : we 
 alfo found the remains of two or three huts> and a plain fpace, with 
 only one circular hut near the end. At one place clofe by thefc were 
 llrewed on the ground vaft quantities of clam fhells. All which 
 proved the ifland to have been once inhabited ; but whether the per- 
 fons had emigrated elfewhere, or become extinct, there was no 
 remaining evidence whereon to form a conjecture, as the latter is as- 
 probable as the former ; for it is likely they would be no more than 
 the crew of one canoe, who, by the number of clam fhells, mufb have 
 fubfifted here a confiderable time, perhaps till their canoe was rendered 
 fit to tranfport them to another ifland. It is likely alfo that the cocoa- 
 nut-trees, as they grew fo partially and fo near the moral, were of 
 their planting ; and by the few of thefc which had fallen in the ufual 
 manner, we Ivippofc it could not be more than fifty years fince they 
 were firft planted. 
 
 One circumftimcc here is very flriking, which is, that howevei
 
 May.] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 125 
 
 fmall in number the wretched refugees might have been, a morai, 
 or place of worfliip, was thought by tlicm indifpenfably neccflary ; 
 it proves, that, however tlieir ideas of fupernatural beings are be- 
 wildered, they ftill univerfally hold the fame tradition among them : 
 and notwithftanding the inhabitants of ditfcrent iflands give their pe- 
 culiar names to their guardian deity, the manner of worfhip being 
 every where the fame, proves the tradition originally to be from one 
 fource. 
 
 Concerning the formation of thefc low iflands the opinions of men 
 are various ; but whether fuch a rnafs of matter grows like a fhrub, 
 or be the work of millions of animalcules, is what I mull leave to the 
 learned. It appears, however, that in their pcrfeifl flate they come no 
 nearer to the furface than where the fea breaks upon them. The part 
 of this ifland that we were upon I fuppofe to have rifen about t\\ o or 
 three furlongs in breadth, and by the force of the fea againlt the outer 
 edge the parts projedling were broken off; thcfe, as the fea drove 
 them towards the lagoon, would ftrlke other parts and force them otT^ 
 and a heavy florm coming on would, with irrcfillible violence, drive 
 them up in a ridge at fome diftance from the fea-fida, and near to the 
 edge of the lagoon. This is evidently the cafe here. The firll ridge- 
 lies within one hundred yards of the lagoon, and about three furlongs 
 from the edge of the reef next the fea. The fecond ridge runs within 
 ten yards of the firft, and the furrow between is about ten or twelve 
 feet deep. The other ridges, of which there are many, are nearly 
 about the fame diftance, and the fiirrows the fame, differing only in 
 proportion as we may fuppofe the ftorm^s to have done which threw 
 them up : the'ife being compofed entirely of large coral ftones, prove 
 this to have been tlie cavafe ; and the ridges lying lengthwlfc in a di- 
 redlion about north and foiith, demonllrate that no other than gales 
 from the wcftward could have produced this effc6l on this fide of the 
 ifland : and it is known, that winds from that quarter, though not 
 exceffively llrong, raife a more hollow and heavy fwell than any other. 
 At prefcat, about a furlong fromthe outer edge of the reef, the floncs.
 
 126 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 after running over a flat of that breadth, form a fteep wall not Icfs 
 than eight or ten yards above the furface of the fea ; but CA'cn over 
 this height the ftones are driven, and fliooting a confiderable way in, 
 cover fome of the former ridges, and" form a gradual flope. Indeed it 
 is almoil: incredible w hat large lumps of folid coral lie thrown half way 
 up the deep wall above mentioned. I remarked no other part of the 
 ifland where fuch effed:s of ftorms were to be ieen ; in fome places 
 more towards the S. E. and w^here the land was not more than a fur- 
 long in width, it was low and covered with fine white coral fand, mixed 
 w ith rotten vegetables and leaves of trees that grow upon it : this in 
 general is the kind of foil ; even upon the large ttones this rotten mat- 
 ter and the coral fand are blown, and there the trees are more flou- 
 rifliing and abundant than in other places. 
 
 From this time nothing material occurred until wc made the Mar- 
 quelas. One of the Serle's Ifland party had a fever for three or four 
 days, but foon got the better of it, and was the only one that fvifFered 
 from that expedition. As we were trufting wholly to our time- 
 keeper, we found ourfelves, after fo long a.paflagc, contrary to our 
 expedtation, confiderably to the weflward, when \% e faw Santa Chrif- 
 tina on the -ith of June, a little before funrlfe in the morning, bearing 
 E. N. E. diflant nine leagues. Being thus to leeward of our port, we 
 kept plying till the afternoon of the following day, and took fe-veral 
 compafs bearings, to afccrtain the extent and relative fituatlon of the 
 iilands..
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 127 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Occurrences at the Marqnefas. 
 
 5th. TXTHEN wc had got within four miles of Rcfolution bay, we 
 ' ' faw two men paddling towards us in a fmall, wretched 
 canoe, which th cy kept above water by conftant bailing. Not knowing 
 their intention to come on board, nor conceiving them of any ufe if 
 there, we kept all fail fet, and paffed clofe by them with great velo- 
 city ; this they obfcrved, and being more anxious to come aboard than 
 wc imagined, one of them leaped into the water, caught a rope we 
 hove to him, and expertly hauled himfelf hand over hand to the quar- 
 ter-gallery, where we took him in quite naked. At firft he looked 
 round the cabin with furprife, but foon recovered himfelf and ran 
 upon deck. He was tattowed from head to foot, infomuch as nearly 
 to hide his natural colour ; he talked very fall;, and was tolerably under- 
 ftood both by Crook and the Otaheiteans : the earneftnefs which he ex- 
 preffcd was to induce us to tack and pick up his comrade, who he gave 
 us to underffcand was his father ; and that if we did not take him in, 
 it would be impoffible for him to reach the ifland in fo wretched a 
 canoe, as the wind blew ftrong. However, to eafe him of his fears, 
 we took the father on board and the canoe in tow, but flie foon 
 went to pieces, and drifted away, which feemed to give them little 
 concern. The wind, as we drew near the land, became variable and 
 fqually, and as we were ftretching towards St. Dominica, to avail our- 
 felvcs of a favourable flaw, the captain gave orders to tack towards 
 the bay. This both the natives oppofcd, and made figns, that by 
 keeping on the fame tack until wc ran farther, we fhould then fetch 
 the bay when we tacked. Their advice was taken, and anfwcring ac- 
 cordingly, was a proof of no fmall degree of nautical Ikill in tliem.
 
 128 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE {17^7. 
 
 We found it very difficult to work up the bay, by reafon of the 
 hea\-y gufts of wind from the mouiitaias ; however, by feven o'clock 
 we were clofe up, and let go our fmall bower anchor in fifteen fa- 
 thoms water ; veered out eighty fathom of cable as faft as we could, 
 but before it held we had dragged it into thirty-fi\'^ fathoms. Though 
 it was now dark two females fwam off, in hopes, no doubt, of a 
 fiivourable reception ; but finding they could not be admitted, they 
 kept fwimming about tRe fliip for near half an hour, calling out, in 
 a/- pitiful tone, Waheinc ! waheine ! that is. Woman ! or. We are wo- 
 men ! They then returned to the fhore in the fame manner as they 
 came : our two pilots alfo followed them, but not till they had ufed 
 all their arguments for the captain to allow them to fleep in the fhip ; 
 and, but for the fake of precedent, their requeft would have been 
 granted, as a reward for the implicit confidence they placed in us. 
 
 0th. " This morning w^e began unbending moft of our fails, and 
 ftripping the forcmaft, that the rigging might have a thorough over- 
 haul ; one of the llirouds we knew to be broken in the way of the 
 maft-hcad, and now found another gone on the fame fide ; fo that 
 had we not providentially been on the larboard tack when we expe- 
 rienced the fevered gales, we muft certainly have loll the foremaft, 
 which we could not replace in any of thefe parts. 
 
 Our firll vifitors from the fhore came early ; they were feven beau- 
 tiful young women, fwimming quite naked, except a few green leaves 
 tied round their middle : they kept playing round the fliip for three 
 hours, calling WahCiue ! until fcveral of the nati^ e men had got oa 
 "board ; one of whom being the chief of the ifland, requcfled that 
 his filler might be taken on board, which was complied with : flie 
 was of a fair complexion, inclining to a healthy yellow, with a tint 
 of red in licr check, was rather ftout, but polfeiring fuch fymme- 
 try of features, as did all her companions, that as models for the {la- 
 tuary and painter their equal can feldom be found. Our Otaheitean 
 girl, who was tolerably fair, and had a comely perfon, was notwith- 
 llanding greatly eclipfed by thefe women, and I believe, felt her
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 129 
 
 inferiority in no fmall degree ; however, flic was fupcrior in the 
 umiablenefs of her manners, and poflcfTed more of the foftnefs and 
 tender fceUng of the fex : flie was afliamed to fee a woman upon the 
 deck quite naked, and fupplied her with a complete drcfs of new 
 Otaheitean cloth, which fet her off" to great advantage, and encou- 
 raged thofe in the water, whofe numbers were now greatly incrcafed, 
 to importune fur admiffion ; and out of pity to them, as we faw they 
 would not return, we took them on board : but they were in a mcafure 
 difappointed, for they could not all fuccced fo well as the firft in get- 
 ting clothed ; nor did our mifchicvous goats even fuffer them to keep 
 their green leaves, but as they turned to avoid them they were at- 
 tacked on each fide alternately, and completely ftripped naked. 
 
 The chief alx)ve noticed is named Tenae, eldeil fon of Ilonoo the 
 reigning prince in Captain Cook's time; he came in a tolerably good 
 canoe, and introduced himfelf by prefenting the captain with a 
 fmooth flaff" about eidit feet lone, to the head of which a few locks 
 of human hair were neatly plaited ; and bcfides this, he gave a few 
 head and breaft ornaments. Obferving a muilcet on the quarter-deck, 
 he took it with care to the captain, and begged him " to put it to 
 " fleep." He received an axe, a looking-glafs, and neck-chain to 
 hang it to, alfo a pair of fcillars ; the latter, an article much prized 
 at the Friendly and Society iflcs, he was either indifferent about, or 
 totally ignorant of their ufe. Two of his brothers, w ho were prefent, 
 cxprefled not the leaft defire for any thing ; they all feemed to have 
 a thoughtful caft in their countenance, fuch as men acquire who are 
 Itruggling for fubfiftence and can hardly get it, though they would 
 frequently b'-eak out into mad fits of laughter, and talk as fall as their 
 tonsiues could <ro, and this the women did as well as the men. It 
 appeared that this was a very fcarce time wath them, for they kept 
 complaining they were hungry and begging for victuals all the while 
 they were on board ; to fome \vc gave a little, but they were too 
 numerous for us to fupply all : as for the women, they are in that 
 Hate of fubjedion, that, if they got any thing and could not conceal 
 
 s
 
 130 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE . [1797. 
 
 it, the men took it from them. Towards evening thofc who had no 
 canoes, and who were by far the greateft number, leaped all together 
 into the water and fwam on fhore. 
 
 Our intention of fettling two men among them being made known 
 to the chief, he fcemed highly delighted with the propofal, and faid 
 that he would give them a houfc and a ihare in all that himfelf had. 
 
 After this he went on fhore; I followed with Mr. Harris, Mr. Crook, 
 Peter, and Otaheitean Tom. Tenae received us upon the beach, and 
 conducing us a little way defired we would flop, as we thought, to 
 gratify the natives, for they formed a ring around us, thofe nearefl 
 the centre fitting, to let thofe behind look over their heads : Tenae's 
 fifler not following the example of the refl, he reproved her, which 
 brought tears from her eyes. This fhew continued about a quarter 
 of an hour. Afterwards we proceeded up the valley, accompanied by 
 the chief, his brother, and many of the young natives. The road 
 was very indifferent by reafon of tree roots that crofs it, and large 
 flones which lie in the way ; and being all up hill, we were pretty 
 well tired by the time we reached the chief's houfe, though we refted 
 thrice, at which times they brought excellent water in cocoa-nut 
 fhells from a rivulet that runs down the valley. The bread-fruit and 
 cocoa-nut trees, with a variety of other forts, afforded a comfortable 
 fhade from the heat of the fun. Tenae conducted us to one of his 
 befl houfes, intimating that it was for the ufe of the brethren, and 
 that they might occupy it as foon as they pleafed. To convey an 
 idea of what this and all their befl-bullt houfes are like, it is only 
 neccffary to Imagine one of our own of one flory high with a high 
 peaked roof; cut it length wife cxadily down the middle, you would 
 then have two of their houfes, only built of different materials. That 
 we now occupied was twenty-five feet long and fix wide, ten feet 
 high in the back part, and but four in front; at the corners four flout 
 flakes are driven into the earth, on which arc laid horizontal pieces, 
 and from thcfc laft to the ground are bamboos neatly ranged in per- 
 i)cndicular order, about half an inch diflant from each other ^ and
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 13} 
 
 •without them long blinds made with leaves are hung, which make the 
 infide very clofc and warm : the door is about the middle on the low 
 fide. They do not ufe the leaves of the wharra tree here for roofing, 
 as at Otaheite, but common broad leaves, which they lay fo thick as 
 to keep the water out ; but the greater part of their houfes are mife- 
 rable hovels. 
 
 The infide furniture confilled of a large floor mat from end to end, 
 feveral large calabaflies, fomc fifliing-tackle, and a few fpears ; at one 
 end the chief kept his ornaments, which he fliewed to us ; amongft 
 other things, he took out of two bamboo cafes, two bunches of fea- 
 thers of the tail of the tropic-bird, not lefs than a hundred in each 
 bunch, forming a beautiful and elegant ornament : upon thefe he 
 feemed to place a great value. 
 
 They made no offer of any thing to eat, except a few cocoa-nuts ; 
 nor did I fee that they had any other thing in ufe but thefe and the 
 four mahie. Hogs and fowls were walking about, but in no great 
 plenty ; indeed this appeared to be their fcarce feafon ; for when wc 
 firft landed one fellow ran to me and fluffed a piece of mahie into 
 my mouth, thinking, no doubt, that at this feafon of fcarcity he was 
 doing me a great kindnefs. However, in other refpedls, Tenae 
 treated us very well, and the people were evidently glad to fee us 
 among them. 
 
 On our return to the fliip, the captain met the two brethren in the 
 cabin, to know their fentiments of this place, and whether they were 
 flill in the fame mind to fettle upon it. Mr. Crook obferved, that he 
 was encouraged by the reception they had met with ; thought the 
 chief had behaved exceedingly well, and approved of the houfe afligncd 
 them, the place, and the people ; and concluded by faying, that 
 though there was not the fame plenty here as at the other iflands, he 
 had no objetT^ions to ftay, as he never before nor fince his engagement 
 liad comforts in view ; therefore the prefeiit flate of the ifland was 
 not fo great a difappointment to him. However, appearances gave 
 him rcafon to think that they had their plentiful fcafons here as well as 
 
 s 2
 
 ^52 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i797- 
 
 at the other iilands. Mr. Harris deUvered his fentiments with hefi'a- 
 tion, as if fear had taken poffeffion of his mind : his opinions wcre- 
 quite contrary to Crook's ; he difapproved of every thing, and judged 
 the fcene before him a folcmn one ; and, in Ihort, feemed entirely to 
 ha-\ e loft his firmnefs and ardour. However, as the kind reception by 
 the chief and his people had obviated every diredl objc6lion to tihem, 
 it was agreed to go on fhore the next day, take their beds with them, 
 and make a trial ; after which, if they thought it unfafc to ftay, and 
 afligned their reafons, they might tlien return on board, as no com- 
 pulfion was intended. 
 
 7th. It is remarked, that honefty is no virtue of a South -Sea 
 Iflander, efpeclally when our articles lie expofed to tempt him. The 
 natives here had not hitherto appeared folicitous to barter with us ; 
 but fome of them laft night had found means to lift the glafs cover off 
 one of our beft compaffes, flole away the card and needle, and fitted 
 the cover on as before. We fpoke to the chief and feveral others 
 about it, but found all our endeavours to recover It by mild means 
 ineffe<flual ; and, rather than ufe any other, the affair was dropped. 
 However, they feemed to be confclous of having done fomethlng 
 amlfs by their not coming to the fhlp till long after breakfaft, when 
 our decks were again crowded with both fexes in the fame naked ftat'c 
 as on the preceding day. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Crook landed with his bed and a few clothes ;: 
 I accompanied him, to fe^ how he was received. Mr. Harris declined 
 going, wlflilng to flay on board and pack up their things in fmall 
 parcels, for the convenience of carr}-ing them up the valley. The 
 chief's brother departed from the lliip with us, and Tenac himfelf 
 received us at the beach, and treated us with rcfpcd: and kindnefs, 
 as on the day before. We proceeded \ip the valley, followed by a 
 vaft concourfe of people, fome of whom carried the baggage, and 
 depofitcd it in the houfe affigned for the brethren ; but a fliort time 
 after it was removed, and ourfclves conduced to another houfe of 
 larger dimenfions, about a hundred yards diflant from the .firft. This
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 133 
 
 houfe flood on a fquarc platform raifcd with flones, having a wall 
 about fix feet high on the low efl fide (for they are all built on a decli- 
 vity) ; in the infidc was a kind of cfcutchcon in memory of Honoo, . 
 the chief's father ; it was very curioufly wrought w ith fmall reeds, 
 laid upright, oblique, and horizontal, and about eight feet in height, 
 forming a fide of a pyramid. There was a drum at each end, made 
 like thofe the Otaheitcans ufe, but much longer. Nearly adjoining, 
 and upon the fame platform, was another houfe, built on a fmall emi- 
 nence, leaving a fpace in front, w here were placed two rude figures of 
 men carved in wood, nearly the fizc of life ; behind thefe, againfi: the 
 fide of the houfe, were three other efcutchcons, ^^TOught in the fame 
 manner as the one above mentioned ; that in the middle, which was 
 the highcft, had the figure of a bird upon the top, and the reeds which 
 compofed the whole being ilained of various colours, produced a beau- 
 tiful and folemn efFe<51r. The houl'c had no door or opening of any 
 kind ; but as my curiofity was a good deal excited, I opened a hole in 
 the fide of it, to fee what it contained, and beheld a coffin fixed upon 
 two ftakes about a yard from the ground. Juft at this time Tenac 
 came up, and feeing he was not angry, I again opened the hole and 
 pointed to the coffin : he infi:antly cried Honoo ! and repeated it fcvcral 
 times, by which I knew it was his father, and thought him pleafed to 
 fee me notice the honours he had paid to- his memory. The coffin was 
 cylindrical, and bound about with A'arious coloured plaitirag made of 
 the fibres of the cocoa-nut. This fcpulchre, Crook's houfe, the trees, 
 and every thing within the platform, w-as taboo or facred, and mufl not 
 be approached by women. 
 
 1 left Otaheitean Tom to bear Crook company the firfl: night, and 
 then returned on board. In walking down the valley, I obferved that 
 it was well flocked with bread-fruit trees, but none of them were ripe; 
 cocoa-nuts were not fa plentiful : there were plantains, the ahee-nut, 
 and fome other fruits. Thefe are chiefly enclofed by fquare fences 
 of flones about fix feet high, witliin w'hich the ow"ner's houfe flands ; 
 but fome of the orchards are fo over-run with weeds, that they mark 
 more the divifion of property than induflry or labour.
 
 134 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 When the boat came for me, they brought as many of the natives 
 as fhe could contain, they avaiUng themlelves of that opportunity to 
 fave the trouble of fwimming. The chief's brother was with me, 
 and wiflied much to go on board ; but I refufed to take him, as it was 
 near dark : this hurt him fo much, that he llied tears as he walked 
 away. 
 
 8th. The weather ftill pleafant, but, as before, heavy gufts of wind 
 and rain from the mountains. 
 
 The natives crowded on board to-day, infomuch that with difficulty 
 we carried on our work at the rigging : the females were more nume- 
 rous, and all in the fame naked Hate as before, which induced our 
 people to beilow upon each a piece of Otaheitean cloth. It is proper 
 to obferve, that thefe women drefs decently on fliore ; bvit when they 
 have to fwim, as their cloth will not fland the water, they leave it 
 behind, and cover their nakcdnefs with a few leaves only. 
 
 In the forenoon the captain received a letter from Crook, wherein 
 he exprefles his perfeA fatisfa6tion with his new lodgings. As night 
 drew on, he fays, he was left to his rcpofe ; and after commending 
 himfelf to the care of the Almighty, he went to reft, laying his 
 clothes upon the ground near his hammock ; but to his furprife, when 
 he awoke in the morning, there were none of them to be fecn, and 
 he began to think he fhould haAe a bad report to give after the firft 
 night's trial : but before he had time to launch out into unjuft flir- 
 mifes, the chief came with every article carefully wrapt up in a 
 bundle. Soon after the letter, Tenae, Crook, and the chief's brother, 
 came on board ; they were fhcwn into the cabin, and every endeavour 
 made to treat them kindly. The captain made Tenae a prcfent of 
 an ornamented crown, which delighted him greatly ; he alfo gave him 
 a piece of cloth, a hammer, and fome gimlets ; but what moft took 
 his fancy was a large conch-fhcU ; for thcfc they barter eagerly, pigs 
 or any other thing ; one of them gave our cook a broad axe for a 
 conch : but it may with truth be faid, that they arc in fuch a ftate of 
 nature and ignorance, or rather ftupidity, that notwithftanding many 
 iron tools, &c. have been left among them, they have never yet thought
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 135 
 
 of employing their powers to learn their ufc : therefore they fct but 
 little value on what wc have, except they can flcal it, which always 
 enhances the worth of the article. Nails and tools they think nothing 
 of; cats and goats they fought after with fome folicitude, and got 
 fome of the former ; but of the latter we had only females on board. 
 The conch-fhclls they ufc when they go a-vifiting from one valley to 
 another, and as they gain the fummit of the hills, they blow them 
 with all their might, and take great delight and pride in liflening to 
 the long reverberating echoes. 
 
 Tenae was now more familiar than at his firft vlfit, and furveyed 
 the cabin with a degree of attention, but not with the penetration and 
 difcernment of the Friendly iflandcrs. Happening to touch the wire 
 of the cabin-bell, he was ftruck with af-onilhmcnt and favage wonder; 
 he rang the bell again and again, and puzzled hinifelf a quarter of an 
 hour to find whence the found proceeded. Tenae has a thoughtful 
 caft of countenance, and looks much like the chief and father of a vil- 
 lage, and to fee him thus employed raifcd our pity, to behold a man 
 on whom nature, perhaps, had beftowed talents capable of exploring 
 her myfteries, thus confounded with a rattle ; but, alas ! in thefe re- 
 gions, remote from all the paths of fcience, the talents and virtues of 
 infulated genius lie hid in darknefs, and, like the beauties of the rough 
 marble, want the fkill of the polilher to bring them forth. 
 
 It was not a little affecting alfo to fee our own feamen repairing the 
 rigging, attended by a group of the moft beautiful females, who were 
 employed to pafs the ball, or carry the tar-bucket, &c. ; and this they 
 did with the greateft afliduity, often befmearing themfelves with the 
 tar in the execution of their office. No fliip's company, without great 
 rcftraints from God's grace, could ever have refifted fuch temptations ; 
 and fome would have probably offended, if they had not been over- 
 awed by the jealoufy of the officers and by the good conduct of their 
 meflmatcs. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Godfell landed a cheft and feveral parcels for 
 tlie miffionarics, which were taken fafe up to the houfe, Tom and
 
 ]36 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 the boy Harraway ftaid on fliore this night, for the purpofe of ren- 
 dering Crook what fervice they could ; and in the e^ cning our vifitors 
 left us in good time, as ufual. 
 
 On the Qth the pinnace was fcnt on flaore again with more things. 
 Crook ftill refoiving to ftay, attached himfelf to the place, took to 
 eating the four mahie, and contented himfelf with the food the 
 ifland afforded, which is not of a very delicate kind ; for the mahie 
 being made in fmall quantities here, and cleanlincfs httle obfervcd in 
 the operation, it is not fo good as at Otaheite : but he fays that 
 ihey always ferve him firft of the bell they have ; and as he hopes 
 to get pork once or twice a week, and frcfh fifh as oft as he pleafes, he 
 thinks he may live contented without cafi:ing an eye to the luxuries of 
 Otaheite. Tenae had adopted him as his fon, an act they e\er after 
 hold as facred, eftecming him in the iame light as his other children ; 
 this they explained to Crook, who, from the pains previoufly taken to 
 learn the language, underftood almoll all they faid. The chief being 
 ■informed that Mr. Harris intended to ftay, defired Crook to invite him 
 ..on fhore ; but he could not be perfuaded, which was certainly doing 
 ■wrong, as he fliould have embraced every opportunity of learning the 
 ■real flatc of the ifland, and thence judge of the practicability of 
 fettling upon it, before the day came when he mull either go on 
 fliore or lca\'e Crook alone, without being able to allign iuch clear rea- 
 sons as landing in time might enable him to do. 
 
 loth. About two o'clock in the morning the moon was totally 
 ecllpfed ; but the roughnefs of the weather prevented our obferving it 
 with fufficicnt accuracy to be of any ufe. The wind at this time 
 came in very heavy gufts from the mountains, and jull as the eclipfe 
 ended our cable broke ; the beft bower was immediately let go, and 
 brought the Ihip up in forty fathoms water at the entrance of the bay. 
 
 1 1th, Sunday. The natives crowded off as ufual; but on being told 
 that the fliip was taboo for that day, they all fwam back to the fliore, 
 
 12th. The chief and liis brothers came on board with Otahejtcan 
 Tom, who informed us that the boy Harraway had left them and
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 137 
 
 gone to the other fide of the ifland ; and as he had fald nothing con- 
 cerning his intention, they thought he meant to remain, for which 
 Tom blamed him very much : but the captain, to try Tom's own 
 regard for his country, which he had conflantly praifcd to the fkies 
 fince we came here, ordered him to put his things into the canoe and 
 go on fhore alfo, afligning as the rcafon, his being privy to Harravvay's 
 elopement. The poor fellow declared his innocence, and with teaxs 
 in his eyes collected his trifles and put them into the canoe, and before 
 he went o\ er the fide fliook hands with all the crew, then put off with 
 a heart ready to break with fobbing and cr) ing : when he was gone a 
 little way, the captain called him back again, but it was fbmc time 
 before he became reconciled and cheerful. On the other hand, fcveral 
 of the Marquefans were continually plaguing the captain to take them 
 to Otaheite. 
 
 1 3th. While we were at dinner one of the natives ftole a pump- 
 bolt, and was making off with his prize, when Mr. Godfell detefted 
 liim, and with the help of the gunner prevented his cfcape. The reft 
 all jumped overboard, and made for the fliore. The thief we laflied 
 up by way of punifhmcnt, and ihewang him a loaded mufket, he 
 fully exped:cd to be fliot. A man of fomc confequence, who had 
 come in the fame canoe, brought the chief's fecond brother, with two 
 pigs and a plantain-leaf, to intercede for the offender, who was his 
 father ; thefc we refufed to accept. It was affe6ling to fee the fon 
 kifs and embrace his father, and take their laft farewell : however, 
 not to prolong the anguifli, we took up and difcharged the mullcet, 
 and then liberated the culprit. He could not at firft believe rhat he 
 was not Ihot ; but when fet free, and prefentcd to his fon, both of 
 them appeared fo overwhelmed with joy, that they could hardly trull: 
 their own eyes : dumb gratitude and confternatlon had deprived them 
 of the power of fpeech. We added a folemn "warning to them in 
 future againft fuch prad:ices, and fent them afhore with the pigs, 
 which we refufed to accept, that they might fee we had no ad\ antage 
 in our view. 
 
 T
 
 138 FIRST MI£SICr;AllY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 14th. This morning the wind Uew -with fuch violence that we 
 parted from otir beft bower ; and as the fhip was ftill unrigged we 
 were under the neceffity of either letting go another anchor, or drifting 
 to iea ; accordingly a Ipare anchor which we had in readinefs was let 
 go in fifty fathoms water, and one hundred and forty fathom of cable 
 \'eered out before the fhip brought up. We were now about a mile 
 and a half without the entrance of the bay, and the wind continuing 
 to blow as hard as ever, we became apprehenfive that the fhip might 
 be drove off the ifland, therefore manned the pinnace, and fet Mr. 
 Harris on fhore with all his things. The afternoon we employed in 
 putting the rigging in fome order, and bending the fails, as the captain 
 intended to work into the bay the next day if the weather permitted. 
 The latter part, of this day we had very hea\'y rain i but notwith- 
 ftanding the roughnefs of the weather, and the great diftance we lay 
 from the head of the bay, feveral of the natives fwam off to the fhip ; 
 but as we were fo very bufy, they were not admitted on board, only to 
 refl in Ae boats alongfide, and then return : fome took no reft at all, 
 but feeing by the others that the fhip was tabooed, they fwam back of 
 their own accord ; a great exertion, efpecially to the females, as the 
 diflance both ways could not be lefs than five miles. 
 
 15 th. Early this morning we hove up the anchor, and worked clofc 
 in to the head of the bay, having as much wind as our double-reefed 
 topfails would carrj', which makes the working in dangerous, as the 
 wind is fo variable, that fometimes when the fhip was clofe to the 
 rocks fhe would hardly come about. We anchored at noon in our 
 former flation, or rather nearer the fhore, but were drove without it 
 again. All the afternoon we were at work fweeping for our fmall 
 bower, and juft as it grew" dark we fwept the buoy-rope, and made a 
 nim-buoy faft till the next day. We alfo unbent the fails, that the job 
 at the rigging might be completed. 
 
 On the 1 6th we hoifted the long-boat out and got the anchor on. 
 board, but poftponed our fearch for the other till the rigging was put 
 in proper order. On Sunday the J 8th we again tabooed the fhip t
 
 June.] , TO THE. SOUTII-SFA ISLANDS. ijjj 
 
 indeed this was the only fucccfsful mode we had of keeping the 
 natives away. On Monday wc hauled the feinc at the head of die bay, 
 and caught about fix dozen fmall fifli. 
 
 20th. Mr. Harris and Crook came on board, and held a meeting 
 with the captain rcfpcding their ftay. Mr. Harris complained of the 
 poverty of the place, fald he could not cat the mahie, &c. Crook de- 
 clared his determination to flay, even though Mr. Harris fliiould leave 
 him. The refult was, that they both went on fliore to make further 
 trial before our departure. Several of the natives on board as ufual. 
 
 On the 22d a native ftole the cook's axe, and fettiiig off with his 
 canoe, was near the fliore before it was known ; when he faw the pin- 
 nace chafing him, he paddled to the rocks, hauled his canoe up, ran 
 into the bufhes, and fo got clear ofF. They had now become lb acflivc 
 in ftealing, that the failors had fcarce a knife left among them. To 
 remedy this, as foon as they came in the morning, each man chofe a 
 young lad as his ftorekceper, who followed his maftcr clofely all the 
 day, with his knife, marling fpike, &c. hung to his neck ; and this 
 faved them, for they always proved very faithful. 
 
 23d. The boats were fent to fweep for the befl: bower anchor, and 
 caught hold of it ; but trying to heave it up, the rope broke ; and night 
 approaching, it was left till next day. This evening wc obferved the 
 bay to be unufually agitated, for which we could aflign no caufe, as 
 the wind was eafterly, with moderate weather. 
 
 On the 2-4th, the fiflierman, whom we hauled in at the quarter- 
 gallery at our firfl coming, fwam oif at break of day, and informed us 
 that Mr. Harris had been on the beach all the night with his chcft, 
 and had been robbed of mofl of his things. This affair at firft trained 
 little credit ; for we could not fuppofe him fo imprudent as to bring; 
 his property down without fending notice, that a boat might be ready 
 to receive them. But, on difpatching the jolly-boat to know the 
 truth, we found it to be really the cafe. He had come down in the 
 dufk of the evening ; and as none I'rom the fliip were on fliorc, the 
 boats being emplov-cd at the anchor, and the fliip Iving too fur from 
 
 T 2
 
 140 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 the beach for him t© hail, he fpent an uncomfortabk night, fitting 
 upon his cheft : about four in the morning the natives, in order to 
 fteal his clothes, drove him off the chelt ; and, for fear they fhould 
 hurt his perfon, he fled to the adjacent hills. Mr. Falconer, who went 
 to bring him off, found him in a moffc pitiable plight, and like one out 
 of his fenfes. The furf was fb high that they could not land, and were 
 therefore obliged to haul the cheil and its owner off by means of a 
 rope. The reafons he gave for leaving his partner fo abruptly, befides 
 thofe already mentioned, were fuch as he might naturally ha\e ex- 
 pected : Tenae, it feems, wanted to treat them with an excurfion to 
 another valley, to which Crook readily agreed, but IMr. Harris would 
 not confent. The chief feeing this, and defirous of obliging him, not 
 confidering any«favour too great, left him his wife, to be treated as if 
 fhe were his own, till the chief came back again. Mr. Harris told 
 him that he did not want the woman ; however, flie looked up to him 
 as her hufband, and finding herfelf treated with total negleft, became 
 doubtful of his fex ; and acquainted fome of the other females with; 
 her fufpicion, who accordingly came in the night, when he flept, and 
 fatisfied themfelves concerning that point, but not in fuch a peaceable 
 way biit that they awoke him. Difcovering fo many ftrangers, he was 
 greatly terrified ; and, perceiving what they had been doing, was de- 
 termined to leave a place whore the people were lb abandoned and 
 given up to wickednefs : a caufe which fliould have excited a contrary 
 refolution. 
 
 To-day we put a new tow-line in the boat, and fwept the beft bower 
 anchor with it ; hove it vip with the long-boat, and got it once more 
 fate to the bows ; the rigging was alfo completed, and we began to 
 think of taking our departure. This was intimated to Crook, who 
 ftill remained fledfaft in his refolution to ftay in the ifland, dcfiring 
 only fuch implements of hufbandry, and other things, as might faci- 
 litate and extend his ufefulnefs among the people ; obferving, that his 
 happinefs would have been greatly increafcd had his devoted fituation 
 been with a friendly and agreeable affiflant, whofe converfation and
 
 June.] TO TOR SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. Jli 
 
 f)'inpathy might have comforted him in the time of trouble : but fmce 
 the Lord had ordered things othcrwilc, he thought that it better fuitcd 
 with his chara6ler and profeffion, to rcfign himfclf to God's fatherly 
 care, and rell in his promifes, than to quit a llation where a door of 
 ufefulnefs was fo evidently opened : and fhould his blefled Sa\iour 
 make him the honoured inllrument of preparing the way for fome of 
 his more able fervants, he Ihould at laft have the happincis to reflecl 
 that his life was not fpent in vain. 
 
 Crook is a young man of twenty-two, remarkably ferious and 
 fleady, always employed in the improvement of his mind, and applied 
 with great diligence to the attainment of the language. He alfo pof« 
 feffcs a very good genius, and I have no doubt will contrive many 
 things to benefit the poor creatures he lives with ; and as the ^'allcy 
 is capable of great improvement, 1 fhoiild not be furprifed to hear of 
 this and the iflands adjacent becoming very plentiful places by his 
 means. He has various kinds of garden-feeds, implements, medicines, 
 &c. ; an Encyclopedia, and other ufeful books. 
 
 20th. To-day the captain went on (liore for the fufl time, and 
 took with him Mr. Falconer. Their intention was, to afcend to the 
 fummit of the hills, and view the neighbouring ifles. They landed, 
 and were followed by a crowd of the natives, who were exceedingly 
 glad to behold the captain in their village. After taking a little re- 
 frelhment with Tenae at his houfe, the chief's fecond brother accom- 
 panied them up the mountains, which are fo fteep, that in many- 
 places they w^ere obliged to haul themfelves up by the branches of 
 trees that grow upon them. The captain did not reach the top, but 
 Mr. Falconer did : whence he had a view of Trevenen's ifland to the 
 weft, lliou's and Dominica to the north, to the eaft St. Pedro, and 
 Magdalcna to the fouth. The ridge at the llimmit of the mountain 
 is quite narrow, and everywhere covered with trees. The chief prefTcd 
 him much to fire his mufkct againll; Trevenen's ifland, and was highly 
 pleafed with his compliance. On their return, Tenae entertained them 
 with a roafted hog, but not being very fat, fome of the by-ftandcrs
 
 U2 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 obfcrved that it was not good ; which affedled the chief fo much, that 
 he walked afide in a pet, and was not reconciled till the captain faid it 
 was good ; and refufed to eat, except the captain came and fat beiide 
 him, which he accordingly did. In the evening they returned on 
 board, followed by Crook and the chief, who. came to take leave ; ac- 
 cordingly, after fcA'^cral articles were put in the canoe, we bad him an 
 afFedlionate farewell, and parted. His manly behaviour at this feafon 
 did him great credit ; the tears gliflencd in his eyes, but none fell ; 
 nor did he betray the leaft fign of fear to enter upon his work alone. 
 
 27th. At four in the morning we weighed, and flood out of the 
 bay W'ith a light air eafterly. At feven, hove to for a canoe which 
 was paddling hard after us ; in her was the chiefs brother and our 
 old fifhcrman, who had v/ept heartily the evening before on parting 
 with us, and partly becaufe the captain would not take him to 
 Otaheite : at prefent they brought a note from Crook, with a letter 
 for his fifter, and requefting fome foap which had been forgot. Ac- 
 cordingly the quantity before packed up for him was put in the canoe, 
 and a prefent of an axe given to each of the meffengers, who preferring 
 to go to Otaheite, left us very reluctantly. We now fliaped our courfe 
 for Trevenen's and Sir Henry Martin's iflands, intending to obferve 
 their relative fituation to Santa Chriftina, as we had rcafon to fuppofe 
 them erroneoufly marked in the fketch we had on board. 
 
 Concerning the cuftoms and manners of the people about Refolution 
 bay, we learnt but little befides what is already related in our daily 
 tranfa<51Ions ; for, except myfelf for a few hours on the firfl two days 
 after ovir arrival, and the captain and the third mate on the laft day of 
 our flay, no perfon was on fhore from the Ihip. But, finding this was 
 likely to be the cafe, I wrote a number of queries to Crook, whofe time 
 being likewlfe much taken up with his own affairs, he had not leifure 
 to make the ncceflary inquiries to anfwer them all. But, from his 
 knowledge of the language, I think that what he fays of a few may 
 be depended upon, and they arc as follow : 
 
 *' Their religious ceremonies refcmble thofc of the Society Iflands.
 
 Junk.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 143 
 
 " They have a moral in each diftridl, where the dead arc buried bc- 
 " neath a pavement of large flones, but witli fiich exceptions as in the 
 *' cafe of the chief Honoo. Tliey have a multitude of deities. Thofc 
 " moft frequently mentioned arc Opooamanne, Okeco, Oenamoe, 
 " Opee-peetyc, Onooko, Oetanow, Fatee-aitapoo, Onoctye ; but none 
 " who fcem fuperior to the reft, though the extent of my information 
 " is fmall on this head. Tliey only offer hogs in facrifices, and never 
 ''■ men. 
 
 " The chief Tenac prcfidcs over four diftrifts, Ohltahoo, Taheway, 
 ** and Innamci, all opening into Refolution bay, and Onopoho, the 
 '* adjoining valley to the fouth ward. He has four brothers.' Aeow- 
 " taytay, Natooafeedoo, Oheephee, and Moeneencc ; but none of 
 " them feem invcftcd with any authority ; and Tenac himfelf with 
 " Icfs than the Otahcitean chiefs. 
 
 " There is no regular government, eftabliflied law, or punilhments ; 
 " but cuftom is the general rule. 
 
 " As to their food and manners, like moft uncivilized nations, they 
 *' have no regular meals, but eat when they are hungr)% and here not 
 " In a great quantity at a time, this being their fcarcc feafon. When 
 *"• they have a hog, they cat of it five or fix times a day ; and when 
 ** without animal food, they ufe the roafted bread-fruit, fifh, mahie, 
 " pudding made of it and other vegetables, ahec-nvits, and a pafte 
 " made of a root refembling the yam ; and this they do often through 
 " the day. The women are not allowed to eat hog, and are probably 
 " under other prohibitions as at Otaheitc, and feem much more 
 " fervile to the men, and harfhly treated. They are employed in 
 " making cloth and matting, but not in cookery, except for them- 
 " felves. I have never obferved any of the men, from the chief to 
 " the toutou, at work, except a few old perfons making cords and 
 *' nets. The reft idle about, and balk in the fun, telling their ftories,. 
 " and beguiling the time. 
 
 " The chief is faid to have three wives; the youngeft is with him 
 " here, the others in different parts of the iftand. He has feveral
 
 144 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 "* children, fome of which Uve with him here, and the others with 
 " their mothers. Obferving a pregnant woman, I alkcd her how 
 *' many children Ihe had ; fhe replied, Three. I wiflied to know if 
 " they were by the feiiie man ; flie faid, Yes. I ailced further, if he 
 " had any other v.'ife ; flie fiiid, Nc Whence I am led to fuppofe, 
 " that, though Tenae has more wives than one, this is not ufual, and 
 " and may be the privilege of the chief. They feem to be very fond 
 " of their children ; and when I went up the valley I faw the men 
 " often dandling them upon their knees, exa<5lly as I have obferved an 
 " old grandfather with us in a country village. 
 
 " Their particular culloms I am not yet able to defcribc ; but I 
 " learn the fon mull not touch the clothes of the father, and mufl 
 " walk before him on the road ; and the father mull not touch any 
 " thing, nor eat vicluals which have paiTed over the head of th-. fan. 
 *' Before the age of puberty, the operation of flitting the prepuce is 
 " performed ; and all the men are tattoued, even to the very lips and 
 *' eyelids'. Their difeafes are few ; I have indeed hardly obferved 
 *' the appearance of any ; and they are as yet happily free from that 
 *' fatal malady which has made fuch ravages in the Society Iflands." 
 
 Refpefting the perfons, drefs, canoes, &c. of thefe people, we 
 found them exaftly as defcribed in Cook's Second Voyage, where he 
 fays, that " for fymmetry of fliapc and regular features, they perhaps 
 " furpafs all other nations. Not a fmgle deformed or ill-proportioned 
 " perfon was feen on the ifland ; all were ftrong, tall, well-limbed, 
 " and remarkably adlive. The men are from five feet ten inches high 
 ■" to fix feet ; their teeth are not fo good, nor are their eyes fo full, 
 *' as thofe of many other nations : their hair is of many colours, but 
 ■*' none red ; fomc have it long, but the moll general cuftom is to 
 *' wear it fhort, except a bunch on each fide of the crown, which they 
 " tie in a knot. Their countenances are plcafmg, open, and dilpldy 
 " much vivacity. They arc of a tawny complexion, which is rcn- 
 ** dered almoll black by the pundures of the whole body. They 
 " were entirely naked, eixcept a fmall piece of cloth round their waill
 
 Jx'NE.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 145 
 
 •' and loins. Thefe punClurcs were difpofcd with the utmoft rcgula- 
 " rity, fo that tlie marks on each leg, arm, and cheek, were in general 
 *' fimilar." 
 
 The women arc rather of low ftaturc, thouu;h well proportioned, 
 and their general colour inclining to brown. We obferved that fomc 
 who, on our firll arrival, were almoft as fair as Europeans, by coming 
 oti' to the fliip and cxpoiing themfelves to the fun, became afterwards 
 quite dark-coloured. But a few of thcfe were pundlured or tattoued. 
 The chief's fifter had fome parallel lines on her arms, others flight 
 punt^ures on the infide of their lips, and even upon their eyelids. 
 They wear a long narrow piece of cloth wrapped two or three times 
 round their waift, and the ends tucked up between their thighs : above 
 this is a broad piece of cloth, nearly as large as a llieet, tied at the 
 upper corners : they lay the knot over one fliouldcr, and the garment 
 hanging loofc reaches half way down the leg. 
 
 " Their canoes arc made of wood and the hark of a foft tree, which 
 " grows near the Tea, and is very proper for the purpofe ; their length 
 " is from fixteen to twenty feet, and about fixteen inches broad. The 
 " head and flern are formed out of two folid pieces of wood ; the for- 
 " mcr is curv^ed, and the latter ends in a point, which projects horizon- 
 " tally, and is decorated with a rude carved figure, having a faint rc- 
 " femblance to a human face. Some of the canoes have a latteen fail, 
 *' but they are generally rowed with paddles." However, except the 
 one Tcnac had hauled up on the beach, and two or three more, th« 
 refl were fo indifferent as hardly to fwim when there was a breeze of 
 wind. 
 
 The only tame fowls are cocks and hens, and their quadrupeds only 
 hogs ; but the woods are inhabited by fmall birds, whofe plumage is 
 exceedingly beautiful, and their notes fw'cetly varied. We left cats 
 and fhe-goats, and were forry we had no he-goat to give them, as they 
 were fo fond of thefe animals, that the chief took them and Crook 
 wherever he went. 
 
 2Sth. Before daybreak we faw fcveral lights upon Trcvenen"* 
 
 V
 
 146 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 ifland ; and as we run along the eaft fide in the morning we obfervcd 
 two or three fandy bays, whence fertile v^alleys run tow"ards the central 
 hills, which lafl are broken and rugged, rifing In feveral places into 
 lofty cones, that give the ifland a very curious appearance. From one 
 of the bays there came off a canoe with four men, who after a length 
 of time came alongfide, and got a few articles from us, for which 
 they had nothing to give in return, but, feeming afraid of us, put off" 
 immediately. Behind the north-eaft point a large double canoe lay, 
 with about twenty men in her : they kept clofe to the rocks ; w"e 
 hove the fliip to for them, but they alio feemed afraid, and kept 
 aloof. At this time we faw a fmgle canoe put off from a fine bay on 
 the north-weff fide ; this canoe was bviilt exa<51:ly like thofe at Santa 
 Chriftina, and had the fame kind of latteen fail : they came clofe to 
 the fliip and talked boldly, and when they faw Tanno Manoo upon 
 the deck, one of them flood up and made fome very lafcivious gcf- 
 tures. We invited them alongfide; where they at laft came, but had 
 loft their courage, for they trembled with fear all the while they fhaid. 
 From them we got the native names of the iflands, as marked in the 
 chart. They wiflied us to anchor in the bay, but this, we had no- 
 defirc to do ; fo we made them prefents and took ovir leave. They 
 were flout well-made men, differing nothing from thofe about Rcfo- 
 lution bay, except in being rather lefs tattoued ; their canoes, though 
 built after the fame fafhion, are neater and flronger ; their houfes alfo,. 
 as feen from the fhip, appeared to be luperior. The bay on the 
 north-wefl part of the ifland feems eligible for fliipplng, and rtiay be 
 diftinguifhed by a fmall but high iflet lying off it, and a beautiful and 
 regular row of cocoa-nut trees behind a fine white fandy beach. 
 
 From the north end of Trevencn's ifland we run N. by E. twenty- 
 four miles, to within a mile of the fouth-cafl point of Sir Henry 
 Martin's: ifland, which point is high and craggy : clofe to the wefl- 
 ward of it is Comptroller's bay, large, and fecurc iTom the reigning 
 winds. At the entrance, and near to Craggy point, there lies a fmall 
 rock above water, in appearance like a boat. At the head of the bay
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA IbLANDS. M7 
 
 we faw fbme houfes in a cove, a vaft number of inhabitants aflcmblcd 
 upon the beach, and feveral canoes hauled up near them. All the 
 valleys about this bay appeared fertile, many of the hills were covered 
 with trees, and the interior parts fecmed more habitable than at any 
 other of the Marquefas. Wcllward of Comptroller's bay lies Port 
 Anna Maria, where the D^dalus lay ; and befides thcfe, I think it 
 highly probable that there are other good anchoring-placcs about this 
 ifland. Captain New defcribes the inhabitants of thcfe iflands as a 
 handfbme race of people, and extremely holpitablc, which is certainly 
 greatly in favour of thofe who would fettle with miffionary views, 
 efpecially when the fuperior natural advantages of the ifland are taken 
 into the account. It being five o'clock in the afternoon when we got 
 off Craggy point, we bore up, and, running down the fouth fide, took 
 our departure for Otahcite, anxious to know in what circumftances wc 
 might find the brethren whom we had fettled there. 
 
 V 2
 
 J48 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE ri797. 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 Return from the Marqnefas to Otahe'itc, xv'iih the TranJaSi'tom idiich 
 had piijjed during our Ahjciics. 
 
 29tli. 
 
 HAVING bent our coiirfe for the Society Iflands, we proceeded" 
 on our voyage with a favourable gale. 
 
 July 3d, We fell in with Tiookea, a lagoon ifland, many of whiciv 
 lie fcattered about this part of the ocean, and render the navigation in 
 dark weather dangerous. We faw fmoke afcending in various parts, 
 one failing canoe in the lagoon, and two men following us along fhore-, 
 They appeared dark-coloured, had a piece of cloth tied round their 
 middle, and each carried a fpear in his hand. Cook vifited this place 
 en his fecond voyage. A lieutenant and the two Mr. Forfters landed : 
 the iflanders received them by touching nofes, a common mode of 
 falutation all over the South Sea. They found here various plants, 
 particularly a vegetable which the natives bruife and mix with Ihell- 
 fifh : this preparation they throw into the fea, where they perceive a 
 fhoal of fifh, and intoxicating them, they are caught on the furface of 
 the water, without any other trouble than that of taking them out :•■ 
 the name, they fay, which this plant bears among the natives is enow; 
 but here the Mr, Forfters have evidently miftakcn the quality of the 
 plant for its name : enow in the language of the Society Illands, 
 means bad, and is doubtlefs in this inftance ufed by the natives to in- 
 timate that the plant was noxious or poifonous. But this miftakc only 
 Ihews how eafy it. is to fall into others of a fimilar nature. 
 
 By obfervation at noon we made the centre of Tiookea in latitude 
 14" 30' S, and its longitude, by the chronometer, reduced from the 
 Marqucfas and afterwards back from Otahcitc, to be 140" 22' W. 
 which is 1° 12' W. of what Mr. Wales makes it. But had we not
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTII-SEyV ISLANDS. ug 
 
 made Otaheite very exaft by our chronometer, we fliould rather have 
 hccn filcnt than fuppofcd an error in ih good "an aiitliority as Mr. 
 Wales. However, to be certain of this point is of confequcnce, as 
 the longitude of Icveral others of the fmall ifiands is deduced from it, 
 and this is the- ifland a perfon would ehoofc to make firft in coming 
 trom the Marquefas. 
 
 Latitvidc obferved at noon 14° 29'; the fouth-wcft end of Tiookea; 
 bearing E. N. E. three miles ; and the extremes of an ifland to lee- 
 ward, called Oura, from W. 3° N. to W. 27'^ S. 
 
 For the other iflands we faw on our paflage, fee the chart. 
 
 0th. At fcven in the morning we faw the high land of Otaheite ; 
 and at noon, being clofe in, we ran between the Dolphin bank and 
 Point Venus rccf>. and came to anchor in Matavai bay in thirteen 
 fathoms water, and immediately moored fliip.. The nati\es crowded 
 off, all exceedingly glad to fee us ; the brethren followed in a flatr 
 bottomed boat, which they had been delired to build for the purpofc ■ 
 of paffing die fliallow entrance of the river with the goods. The 
 report they gave, was pleafing to us all. They had, in general, en- 
 joyed good hea'th.. Tiie natives had conftantly obferved the fame rt-r 
 fpeilful behaviour towards them as at firft, and had never failed a day 
 to fup{ ly them abundantly with all kinds of provifions. Rcfpetling.: 
 the purpofes of the mifTion, it was a point of which they could not; 
 as yet fay any thing more than that appearances were, encouraging. . 
 From the little experience they had gained of the people, they fup- 
 pofcd them teachable ; and though rooted in the traditions and pre- 
 judices of their anceftors, they hoped that a knowledge of the lanr 
 guage, and perfeverance in their duty, would have a great cffcA upon 
 the rifuig generation. Their example had already refrained the natural 
 levity of the natives, and overawed them ; fo that they feldom attempt- 
 to a<5l a heeya within their hearing; and when they come near on the 
 fabbath, they always .behave with decency. Their drefs and manners 
 abb exhibited great improvement on the fide of modefly. 
 
 However, in their own department, ther« had been fomc difference.
 
 150 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 -of opinion concerning their Interior regulations. Confiderlng their 
 fmall number, their committee and the office of prefident had been 
 (lillblvcd ; the of&ce of ftore-keeper, &c. had alfo been changed ; and 
 all public mcafures were debated, difapproved, or adopted, by the 
 body ; a majority fettling the matter. But their own journals will 
 gn'C the moft accurate ftatcmcnt of their proceedings during our 
 flbfence. 
 
 March 2(jth. The fhip quitted the bay of Matavai this day, and 
 -vvas foon out of fight. Our brethren who lail departed from the fliip 
 in a canoe had an unpleafant return, by reafon of the wind, and were 
 obliged to land at a diflance, but got to their companions in the 
 evening, and received their canoe and its contents fafe the next day. 
 
 27th. Brother Puckey informed the brethren refpefling Eimeo, 
 and the veffel he had gone thither to examine. He advifcd, that as 
 Mannc Manne and his people had been exceedingly friendly, they 
 fliould launch the veffel, and bring her to Matavai bay to be com- 
 pleted. Puckey and Cock were accordingly appointed to go to Eimeo 
 for this purpofc. A confultation was held refpetfling Micklewright ; 
 though all condemned his conduct, the majority prevailed, that, if he 
 profcffed repentance, he fliould be received. Some of the brethren 
 thought he ought to be wholly feparatcd from them as a hypocrite. 
 
 28th. A confiderabic prefent came from Pomarre and Iddeah of 
 all forts of provlfjons, ailuring us, when thefe were expended, they 
 would fend a conftant fupply. 
 
 29th. We are daily vifited by the king, queen, Iddeah, and many 
 of the natives. Some of the Otaheiteans, whom we have with us as 
 helpers, fpcak many Engllfli words, and are eager to be taught the art 
 of reading ; tlicy have already learnt moft of the charaders of the 
 alphabet, tiiough our ncceffary avocations have prevented us from 
 paying much attention to this point, or from employing ourfelvcs in
 
 April.] TO THE .SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 151 
 
 the acquifition of their hmt^uage. Wc have provifion in great abun- 
 dance : a gracious Providence evidently favours our dcfign. 
 
 3 J 11. Vifited by tlie king and queen; complained to them of the 
 dcftrudign occafioned by the rats. They fent in immediately lour 
 Gats. 
 
 April ift. Vifitcd by the king and queen, and Mawroa the hufband 
 of Pomarre's fiftcr, a man of good fenfe and great authority : he 
 brought a chefl: to be repaired, and rcquefted Wm. Puckey to be his 
 tayo : he hcfitated at firft, but, on the reprefentation of the Swede 
 how much he could fcrve us, he confentcd. 
 
 2d. Though multitudes of natives, with the king and queen, at- 
 tended ovir worfliip, for want of our interpreter wc were unable to 
 addrefs them ; but they looked on filent wliilft we preached and ad- 
 miniftered the Lord's fvipper. 
 
 3d.. Took three Otaheiteans to affift in our cookery and attend our 
 hogs. The king and queen brought a large prefent of cocoa-nuts to 
 brother Cover and his wife, defiring to become their adopted children, 
 and promiiing to regard them as their father and mother. Pomarre 
 and Iddeah brought a larger in the evening, and begged • them to re- 
 ceive the king and queen as their own progeny. The women croffcd 
 the river to vifit the garden and the country around; the king fol- 
 lowed them, and paid them every mark of attention, directing them 
 to the beft roads, and ordering his attendants to provide cocoa-nuts 
 for their rcfrcfliment. It is incredible to fee the quantity of provifions 
 poured in upon us ; we have not lefs than a waggon-load of fruits, 
 befides the multitudes of hogs and poultry. Surely the Lord hath 
 done this. 
 
 4th. At a quarter pad eight o'clock we affembled for our monthly, 
 prayer meeting ; were revived with the confideration of the thoufands 
 ot God's people who were remembering us, and at the fame throne of 
 grace praying for our fuccefs among the heathen. 
 
 5th. Our daily royal vifitors have taken up their abode of late at 
 Matavai, on purpofe to be near us, Pomarre brought a chair to be
 
 152 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE {179?. 
 
 repaired, which the captain had given him, with a mulket and tbwling- 
 piece : thefe we excufed oiirfelves from repairing, except the chair, till 
 tlic fmith had fet up his forge ; but he left them with us. Their huts 
 rery much refcmble a travelling camp of gypfies. 
 
 6th. Early this morning Otoo fent ten men to prepare wood for 
 creeling the blackfmith's fhop. Our brethren from Eimeo returned, 
 find made us the pleafuig report, that they had been very kindly 
 received by the natives, who never attempted to fteal any of our tools, 
 and were ready to give us every affifhance. Brother J. Puckcy, on the 
 Lord's day, had addrefl'ed them by Andrew ; they heard attentively, 
 and faid it was vcrjy good ; but it could be of no ufe to them to change 
 their religion, as the brethren would fo foon leave them and carry 
 away the book.. We aflured them we would return and teach 
 them again very foon. The natives replied, if any of the chiefs em- 
 braced our religion they fliould follow. 
 
 The ^eflel they had planked up, fo that fhe would be fit to come 
 over in a few davs. 
 
 Micklevvright's condu(?t was very diftrcffing to us ; none of our 
 remonftrances could keep him from the nati\es. 
 
 8th. One of the arreoies, the tayo of brother Henry, came to us 
 with his wife big with child : they were taking their leave of us, in 
 order, during their abfence, to deflroy the infant which fliould be born, 
 according to the ordinance of that diabolical fociety. We thought this 
 a proper opportunity to rcn-xonftrate with them againfl this horrid 
 cultom. The mother lelt with tendernefs, and appeared willing to 
 fpare the infant ; but the brutal chief continued obftinately bent on 
 his purpofe, though he acknowledged it a bloody a(5l, pleading the 
 eflabliflied cuftom, his lofs of all pri>ileges, and the difTolution of the 
 fociety, if this fhould become .general. We offered to build them a 
 houfe for the pregnant women, and take every child which fhould be 
 born into our immediate care. We threatened him, that fuch an un- 
 natural a6l would exclude him from our friendfhi.p for e\'er, and more, 
 that -the .Eataoa, our God, would certainly punifh him. He faid, if he
 
 AFRt]..] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. ii>3 
 
 law the arreoies deftroycd by the Eatooa for it, he would defift ; and 
 afked it" their forefathers were fuffcring for thcfc i>rud.iccs. Our bre- 
 thren failed not to open to him the wrath of God againfl all ung,i>dU- 
 nefs and unrightcoufnefs of men. On this he walked off dejedlcd, 
 but not apparently determined to dcfift from the evil or danger of his 
 ways. A few days afterwards he came, and promifed, if the child 
 were born alive, he would bring it to us ; and on another vifit after- 
 wards with his wife, renewed his promifc on forfeiture of our favour. 
 
 Manne Manne returned from Oparre with abundance of clothes 
 and provifion for all the brethren. We took the opportunity to inform, 
 Pomarre, that next day we fhould fpeak to them the parow no t' Ea- 
 tooa, the word of God ; and invited them to com.e, which they pro- 
 mifed. 
 
 gth. Brother Lewis preached from ThouJIialt not hll, to the king, 
 queen, Manne Manne, and a number of the natives, who heard with 
 ferious attention, and faid, " My ty te parow no Pretane, Imii tippe- 
 '* rahai mydide, ima pohhe roa tc taata : Good is the word of Britain, 
 " not to kill children, not to facrifice men." The high-pricll whif- 
 pering fomething, we afked him what he faid ; he anfwered, he told 
 the people to leave off their wicked ways. 
 
 Pomarre and Iddeah came at noon, and going into the married bre- 
 thren's apartment, found them converging with the arreoies on the evil 
 of deftroying infants. Iddeah was particularly addreffed on the fubje<5l, 
 as Ihc too was pregnant by a toutou who cohabited with her, and was 
 alfo of the arrcoie focietv. Pomarre and Iddeah had for fome time 
 ceafed to cohabit ; he had taken another wife, and flie one of her fer- 
 vants ; but they lived in the fame" ftate of friendfliip, and with oo lofs 
 of dignity. The brethren endeavoured to convince her of the drcad- 
 fulncfs of murder, in a mother efpecially. They promifed to receive 
 the child immediately, and it fliould be no trouble to her ; but fhe 
 was fuUen, and made no reply. They then addreffed Pomarre, and 
 entreated his interference in fuppreffmg fuch ads of inhumanity ; and 
 to give orders that no more human facrifices fliould be offered. Hc
 
 154 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 replied, he would ; faid, that Captain Codk told him it fliould not be 
 done ; but did not ftay long enough to inflru6l them. One of the 
 brethren then faid, that we were come for that exprefs purpofe, and 
 hoped he would hearken to our counfel ; pointing out all the danger 
 and difad vantage to themfelvcs ; and warning them, that if they de- 
 ipifcd our inflru6lions, and continued in their wicked practices, we 
 fhould leave them and go to another illand, where we could hope for 
 more attention, Pomarre was evidently affedled by what was faid, 
 and efpecially could not bear the thought of our leaving him ; and 
 promifed he would ufe all his authority to put an end to thefe prac- 
 tices. He indeed appears of a teachable difpofition and open to con- 
 viftion. Manne Manne came in during this converfation ; and we 
 told him freely, that if he offered any more human facrifices he would 
 utterly forfeit our friendfhip, and muft confider us as his enemies. He 
 replied, he certainly would not. On this we informed him, that our 
 Lord knew his heart, whether he was fmcere in his promifes. 
 
 We renewed our attempts with Iddeah, invited her to continue 
 with us, and fuffer our women to take care of her child ; that her 
 example would have the happiefl effecfts upon the nation ; and knowing 
 her eagernefs for European cloth, we promifed her three fliirts, and 
 any other articles, when the fhip arrived ; yea more, that we would 
 report her condud to Queen Charlotte and the Britifh earee ladies, to 
 whom nothing would more endear her; and that the next fliip would 
 affuredly bring her very valuable prefents. She faid the child was bafe 
 born ; had it been Pomarre's, it would have lived ; but that now they 
 were arreoies — and marched off with her paramour, who fat by and 
 heard with utter indifference. 
 
 In the afternoon we again addrefled the natives through the inter- 
 preter. We afked them if they underftood what we faid ; they an- 
 frtxred, Yes, and that it was very good. Among our auditors was 
 Mawroa, the hufband of Pomarre's fiftcr, widow of Motuaro, the late 
 chief of Eimijo. In converfation with us, he faid he was refblvcd to 
 throw away the gods that could neither hear, nor fee, nor fpcak, and
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 155 
 
 worfliip the Englifh God. He put feveral qucftions to us, particularly 
 w hcthcr it was not lawful for a man to have one wife ; we told him, 
 aflurcdly; it was an ordinance of our God: to which he replied, 
 " My ty, my ty, very good." 
 
 loth. A wet day. In the intervals of the lliowers went in queft 
 of a fituation for ercding new habitations, the prefcnt not having the 
 land fo good around them, and being a very fandy foil. We did not 
 fix, but the majority feemed defirous to build on the fpot which the 
 mutineers had chofen,. as having the advantages of foil, as well as the 
 callerly breezes from the mountain ; feveral waterfalls near formed a 
 meandering flreani through the valley ; the foot of the mountains 
 abounded in bread-fruit and cocoa-nut, and tlie land appeared fuited 
 for cultivation, being cleared of trees which had been burned down by 
 the mutineers ; with an opening to the weft, which let in a beautiful 
 view of Matavai bay, and a diftant profpe(n: of Eimeo. 
 
 12th. This day Iddeah appeared again in public, and Manne Mannc 
 communicated to us the affliftive intelligence that fhc had murdered 
 her new-born babe. It was therefore refolved by the brethren, that 
 no more prefents fhould be received from Iddeah; and that our marked 
 diitipprobation of her condud: fhould be flicwn whenever fhe came to 
 our houfe. Commenced a weekly lecflure; brother Henry fpoke from 
 " The Son of Man is come to feek and fave that which was loft :" 
 the king and many Otahciteans were prefcnt. 
 
 13th. Pomarre and Iddeah came with a vaft prefcnt of hogs and 
 vegetables, which were feparatcd into four parcels. We afked Pomarre 
 from whom they came ; we thankfully accepted his, but rcfufcd to 
 touch thofe which Iddeah offered, and affigned our rcafons, which 
 ^ ndrew communicated. She was highly offended ; faid fhe had a 
 right to do •^^•ith her children as flie pleafcd, and fhould obfenx the 
 <cuftoms of the country without minding our difpleafure ; and walked 
 off Avith her toutou, lea\ing the prefcnt behind : a nevv cheft yvhich 
 had been made for her, being her own materials, was given lier, and 
 Die carried it off \Aith her. Yet her unnatural crime did not utterly 
 
 X 2
 
 1^56 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 pafs unpunilhcd ; a dreadful nulk abfcefs brought her under the fur- 
 geon's knife, and repeated fharp rebukes ; yet her heart appeared flill 
 hardened. She is a bold daring fpirit, and much more warhke than 
 her hufband Pomarre. As we would not receive Iddeah's prefent, wc 
 wilhed Manne Manne to diftribute it to the natives, inftcad of which 
 he carried it ofFto.his own houfe. 
 
 Yet even this is but one among many unnatural crimes w^hich wc 
 dare not name, committed daily without the idea ' of fliame or guilt. 
 In various diftridis of the ifland there are men who drefs as women; 
 work with them at the cloth ; are confined to the fame provifions and 
 rule of eating and dreffing ; may not eat with the men, or of their 
 food, but have feparate plantations for their peculiar ufe. 
 
 It is remarkable, that with all thefe horrid vices fo predominant, in 
 our prefcnce they never fhew an attitude or commit an a6l unfeemly j 
 indeed they profefs hardly to know what we are, and fufped: w:e are 
 not Engliflimen, or like any others they have feen who have ever vi- 
 fited their ifland. 
 
 It may be worth a remark, that Iddeah had not been abfent from 
 our houfe two days before fh.e appeared as if nothing ailed her : with fo' 
 little inconvenience do the mofl painful operations of nature afFc<ft. 
 thofc of that happy climate. 
 
 14th. Manne Manne brought us more hogs, and one of our fbws- 
 ha\ing farrowed., we had now fifty-nine in the fly ; fo that we may 
 truly fay the good of the land is before us. Brother Jefferfon addreficd 
 the natives, with the king and queen ; fome of them looked fo fbed- 
 faflly at the minifler, as if eager to devour every word that was 
 fpoken. " My heart," fays W. Puckey, " was much engaged in 
 " fecret prayer for thefe poor fouls." 
 
 15th. Wanted plank for the blackfrnith's fhop ; told the king.. 
 
 He faid, Harry-mie, come along." I thought he had fbmc ready ;. 
 
 I w'ent with him and fix men ; he carried me up the valley, and 
 
 , fearching every houfe took what he liked : many of the people floutly 
 
 rcfifled, but his men would not leave a plank. I told the king, wtth
 
 ArriL.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. ibi 
 
 whom we cxerclfe the moft entire familiarity, that he was a thief. 
 " No," fays he, " it is the cuftom of Otahcite." 
 
 The king was carried on men's fhouldcrs, and through fuch dange- 
 rous places, that he ran the grcatcft rilTc of breaking his bones ; but 
 he muft not alight, as every place his foot touches becomes facred and 
 his own ground. At laft we arrived at a territory of his own ; when 
 alighting, he took a majeftic llride, and {talking on, " Puckcy," fa\s 
 he, " is this as King George walks ?" I told him. Yes. Having gone 
 about three miles I defired to return, though tlic king would have 
 gone fartlicr, notwithftanding the rain. He then gave me a hog, and 
 made the people from whom he had taken the plank carry it down to 
 our houfe. 
 
 I waited two hours, but the rain not abating, I pufhed homewards; 
 in crofllng the river I had like to have been carried away by the 
 ftream, and cried out; one of our fervants immediately plunged in, 
 and brought me fafe to land, thougtf drenched to the fkin as I had 
 been the whole day. 
 
 l6th. This day we thrice addreilcd the natives by our interpreter^ 
 and with their ufual attention ; but as foon as they retired, they fell, 
 like children, to their own light amufements. The Lord grant the 
 feed fown, may take firmer root in their hearts ! 
 
 17th. Having given in the plan of the flat-bottomed boat which 
 was to be built againft the captain's return, it was approved. Po- 
 marre, on application, ordered fix men to attend me : I had liberty 
 to c\it down whatever I chofe, and had not proceeded far before I found 
 an excellent poiirow tree, fufficient to build a veffel of any burden ; it 
 mofl refemblcs afli, but the wood is harder; it grows crooked, and is 
 very capital for timbers and knees. The natives with me defired me 
 not to do any thing, but only to mark where and how to cut, and. 
 they would do the work. 
 
 18th. Not able to work through pain in my back, my tayo and his- 
 wife coming, they delired to chamfer mc, which gave me great relief. 
 The Ihop being finllhed, and brother Hodges with Haflli at wofk.
 
 i58 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 the natives crowded round him, but vaftly frightened with the fparks 
 and hifling of the iron in water. Pomarre came, fupremely dehghted 
 with the bellows and forge, and catching the blackfmith in his arms, 
 all dirty as he was, joined nofes with him, and exprefled his high 
 fatisfadion. After work they were going to bathe themfelves in 
 the river, when the young king laid hold of an arm of each, and 
 went down with them to bathe. His queen, Tetua, followed, and faid 
 to Haffcll, " Harre no t'a-vy^e. Go into the water;" but they fignified 
 they wiflicd flie would leave them firft ; on this Ihe retired : as for 
 herfelf, flie often bathes at noon-day attended by twenty men, fcldom 
 ever having any women to wait on her. 
 
 20th. A native ftole a box for the fake of the nails ; we fcized and 
 confined him for three hours, and then liberated him, informins: him, 
 that, fliould any be caught in future, they fliould be more feverely 
 puniflied. Soon after Pomarre and Manne Manne brought a peace- 
 offering of a pig and plantain-leaf. The leaf we accepted, but we 
 faid we could not receive the pig, having forgiven the offence. 
 
 21ft. Two of 6ur brethren went v.ith three natives to procure 
 iTiore wood : we went up the valley ; it is al^out fcvxn miles long and 
 a quarter of a mile broad, with very little defccnt, which makes the 
 river meander flowly through it. It is covered with trees, except a 
 few verdant fpots from whence the wood is clcaretl. The mountains 
 on both fides are exceedingly high and perpendicular, covered with 
 fhnibs and trees, where parrots, parroqucts, and a kind of grey thrufli 
 which fmgs delightfully, build their neft. The natives arc numerous 
 and flourifliing ; they fee the fun but a few hours in the day, his 
 beams being intercepted by the mountains, and a light cool breeze 
 blows downward continually. They have fine plantations of yava and 
 cloth trees neatly enclofed ; and they have atl the other edibles in vaft 
 profufion, but are fo indolent, that they hardly are at the pains to gather 
 them. They cat when they are hungry, and flecp when they pleafe. 
 There were feveral infcfted with that horrible difeafe Europeans pro- 
 bably have left them, and fome with their limbs ready to drop joff.
 
 April.] TO Till: SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 159 
 
 Staying at a houfc till the reft returned, having made my feet fore, 
 the kind inhabitant prefcntcd mc his wife ; and though I cxcufcd 
 myfclf from that favour, he inftantly prepared a hog, w hich was ready 
 as foon as my companions came from the mountain ; Ashilft our hoft 
 himfelf would wait on his guefts. 
 
 At our return brotlier Henry was preaching to the natives ; and after 
 fervicc Mannc Mannc obferved, that " we gave them plenty of thcr 
 " word of God, but not of many other things." 
 
 22d, 23d. Nothing but the ufual fervices : read the articles of 
 rcliaiion we had flibfcribcd. 
 
 2'ltli. On a meeting of our fociety we agreed to new regulations, 
 abollfliing the committee of five ; and as each had his vote in our 
 deliberations, a fecretary only was thought necefTary, and a prelident, 
 to be chofen at each meeting. We drew up rules for every day's work ; 
 the bell to ring at fix; to be affcmblcd for prayer in half an hour; to 
 labour till ten at our various occupations ; to fpend from ten till three 
 in mental improvement ; from three till night at our ufual employ- 
 ment ; bell to ring at feven for prayer, and the journal to be read. 
 We then proceeded to divide our iron for traffic, and caft lots for the 
 watches. 
 
 27th. Purfuing our various employments, and daily attended by 
 the natives. Five of us went to Eimeo with Manne Manne to finiflt 
 his veffcl. The brethren at Eimeo were moft hofpitably entertained ; 
 but Micklewright, the fteward, having warped the Swede, and difin- 
 clined him to us, he made a variety of excufes for not interpreting to 
 the people as uliial. Having an addrefs tranflated, brother Cover de- 
 ■fircd to read it to them, which Manne Mannc approving, under the 
 fhade of a fprcading tree they fung, " Salvation, O the joyful found," 
 &c. and after prayer read the addrefs ; at the clofe of which Manne 
 Manne exclaimed, " Very good fellow!" and on afking the natives if 
 they underftood what was read, they replied, "Yes, it was very good." 
 They then crofled the bay, fully anfwering Cook's defcription. The face 
 of this ifland is very romantic : the land around it is like the ruins of a
 
 \6o FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [17017. 
 
 ■ftupcndoui fortification. The dillndt of Watawy is lefs mountaino'os 
 apd better cultivated than any at Otaheite ; the foil deep and good.-' 
 We retired to reft on feme Otaheite cloth laid on the boards of the 
 veird. Brothers Bicknell and Cock worked at thevcffel, whilft Cover, 
 with Andrew, with much difficulty was preparing a tranflated addrels; 
 obliged to omit many fcntences for want of words. Set off for Ota- 
 heite ; flept at Popo l»y in the canoe, very uncomfortably. The v/ind 
 increafmg, we were driven to leeward, and juft made Attahooroo. 
 Earneft to reach our houfe for the fabbath, wc fct off on foot, and left 
 tlic canoe on the fliorc. 
 
 On the way we viiited tlic tuppapow of Orapiah : he is in a fitting 
 . pofture, clothed in red cloth, under a flicd ; a native attending day 
 and night, and offering provifions to the mouth of the dead corpic, 
 v/hich not being received, he cats them himfelf. We reached home 
 after twelve o'clock, very much fatigued, not having ■ put off our 
 clothes fince wc left Matavai. 
 
 2Qth, 30th. Our brethren were aftively employed, fawing plank 
 for the boat. The natives are vaftly furprifed to fee us cut fo many 
 boards out of one tree, two being the moft they attempt : they are 
 ama7xd to obfervc the facility with which we work all our tools. 
 Gomg to the blackfmith's fhop, I obferved a chief peeping in ; I afked 
 him why he went not within ; he fald he was (mattow) frighted, and 
 angry with the fire for fpitting at him. As foon as the iron hiffes in 
 the water, or on the anvil, the natives fly. 
 
 Three of the brethren accompanied Pomarre in a journey through 
 the ifland, in order to make obfcrvations. 
 
 May iff. The king came with a mufket and four piftols to be 
 repaired and cleaned. . On confultation we demurred to the requefr ; 
 but as he had fent a hog and other things to the fmith, we ordered 
 one of the piftols to be done, and put off the reft for a while. 
 
 2d. 0\ir monthly prayer meeting. We ftiall tranfcribe a paffage 
 from one of the journals on this occafion, which others will feel with 
 fenfations of delight as we do: " O Lord, how greatly haft thou ho-
 
 May.] to the SOUTII-SExV islands. 1(31 
 
 " nourcd me, that thoufunds of thy dear children fhould be praying 
 " tor ;;/(•, a worm ! Lord, thou halt fct mc in a heathen land, but a 
 " land, if I may ih fpcak, flowing with milk and honey. O put more 
 " grace and gratitude into my poor cold heart, and grant that I may 
 " never with Jclhurun grow tat aiid kick." 
 
 3d. Employed on the boat. Vilited by the king and queen, who 
 fupply all our wants. Our hogs arc incrcalcd to fcA enty ; and wc 
 have entreated them to bring no more. One of our flicep brought a 
 fine young ram hunb, much wanted. 
 
 •Tth. Held a meeting preparatory to the communion. Brother 
 Lewis, as cldell minlllcr, after prayer, examined e\ery one with great 
 fidelity and tenderuel's, giving fuch exhortation and reproof as was 
 necefllvry. A happy opennels of mind and melting of heart pre- 
 vailed ; and f^-mptoms ©f genuine contrition for any paft improprieties 
 towards each other. This was the firft meeting of the kind we had 
 held, and it was truly profitable : we experienced fomething of the 
 healing and relVefliing pretence of God with us. Relbh ed fuch meeting 
 fliould be monthly. 
 
 /th. Vifited by a chief prlefl: from Papara, Temarrce, who is re- 
 puted equal to Mannc Mannc. He is called an Eatooa ; fomctlmes 
 Taata no t'Eatooa, the man of the Eatooa : he was drclTcd in a wrapper 
 ot Otaheitean cloth, and o\cr it an otTicer's coat doubled round him. 
 At his firft approach he appeared timid, and was invited in : he was 
 lilit juft feated when the cuckoo clock ftruck, and filled him with 
 aftonifliment and terror. Old Pvetea had brouirht the bird fomc 
 bread-fruit, obter^■lng it mull be ftar\ed if wc never (cd it. At break- 
 faft wc invited Temarrce to o\;r repaft ; but he firft held out his hand 
 with a bit ot plantain, and looked verv tblcmn,- which one of the na- 
 tives fiiid was an offering to the Eatooa, and we muft receive; when 
 weiiad taken it out of his hand, and laid it under the table ; he fat 
 down and made a heartN breakfaft. 
 
 Brother Co\cr read the tranflated addrefs to all thcje refpc<fled 
 guefls, the natives liflcning a\ ith attention, and particularly the prieft, 
 
 Y
 
 10'2 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 who fecmed to druik in every word, but appeared difpleafed when 
 urged to caft away their talfe gods ; and on hearing the names Je- 
 hovah and Jefus, he would turn and whifper. The people were 
 examined by the brethren if they underftood what was faid, and re- 
 peated a confiderable part of what had been delivered, and feemed 
 greatly pleafcd. 
 
 9th. Temarree accompanied the king and queen, and ftald to dine 
 with us. He is, we find, of the royal race, and fon of the famed 
 Oberca. He is the firft chief of the illand after Pomarre, by whom 
 he has been fubdued, and now lives in friendflTiip with him, and has 
 adopted his fon. He is alfo high in efteem as a prieft. His name of 
 Eatooa engaged our converfation. We told him the Eatooa could not 
 die, as he muft. A by-ftanding native faid, " that he mull: be a bad 
 " Eatooa Indeed ; for he had himfelf feen one of his kind kijled 
 " with a mufket; and that they were no gods who could be killed." 
 Thefe priefts pretend to great power, as forcerers, to kill and make 
 alive ; and the people are in much awe of them : but we fet their 
 power at nought. 
 
 12th. We received afflidlive intelligence that Micklewright and 
 the Swede had fired upon the inhabitants at Eimeo : this grieved and 
 alarmed us. We difpatched a letter to our brethren then with Po- 
 marre, adviling them of what had happened, and haftening their return. 
 With thefe men we determined to have no more intercourfe. 
 
 13th. The birth day of little Otoo Haffcll : but this name is lb 
 facred here, that every word into which Otoo enters is prohibited, and 
 may only be ufed in fpeaking of and to the king. 
 
 14th. The tayo of Puckey returned from Oparre, and brought a 
 prcfcnt : it being the Lord's day, he declined accepting it till the next 
 morning. Fewer natives attended the worfliip to-day than ufual. 
 
 15th. Our brethren returned in confequence of our letters, all but 
 brother Main, who llaid one night with Temarree : he joined us the 
 next day. 
 
 lOth. The account they give is, that they made the circuit of the
 
 May.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 163 
 
 greater pcninfula, and entered Tiaraboo, which Pomarrc rcprcfentcd 
 as of very difficult travelling; fo they returned by the fouth, and were 
 every where kindly received, and moft hofpitably entertained by Tc- 
 marree, who prevailed on brother Main to be his tayo, and gave him 
 and brother Clode each a double canoe, ihewing them all his {lores 
 and fire-arms which he got from the mutineers ; the guns, however, 
 by the policy of the Swedes, are all bent. Pomarre, and the king and 
 queen, would fain have detained them, not meaning themfclves to 
 return to Matavai till the fliip comes. Every evening and morning 
 the king, or fome of the people, reminded tliem of the paroxv, or 
 prayer, and joined with them attentively ; but fometimes the natives 
 were noify and interruptive : however, the brethren daily maintained 
 their worlhip, and on the fabbath retired, and enjoyed fwcet com- 
 munion with God. 
 
 Their fingularity of manners in this part of the ifland, which had 
 not been vifitcd by them, their finglng, and ailcing a blcffing on their 
 meals, excited furprife and laughter, though probably not the laugh of 
 contempt ; for every where they w^ ere treated fumptuoufly, and fomc- 
 tim(?s on a table, with plates, in the Englifli fafliion. We cannot omit 
 an obfervation here made by one of the brethren : " Yet all this kind- 
 *' ncfs is not the gofpcl : were wc as gods among them, we fhould be 
 ** wretched, if they believed not our meflage." 
 
 " A pricft, who pretended to great power in witchcraft, produced a 
 " rufh wrapped up in the form of a bird, and fhewed me," fays one of 
 the miffionaries, " how they worfliippcd their god by this inftrument, 
 " and intimated that it gave the divine refponfe as our bible. To a 
 *' curious perfon it would have been a feaft to examine, but my bowels 
 " yearned over their ignorance and idolatry. 
 
 " The fame prieft very kindly anointed my legs, which were much 
 " affecfled, with the juice of an herb, which gave me more relief before 
 " morning than all the applications I had made for three weeks before ; 
 " fo that they arc not deftitute of fome medical knowledge, probably 
 " the refult of experience." 
 
 Y 2
 
 i6i FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 PalTing into Tiaraboo, \vc Aifited Pomarre's youngcft fon at Mato- 
 wee, his diftrid:, the bcft cultivated and moft populous wc have feen. 
 We ftopped at Wyoteca, as Pomarre faid the next dlllricl was not 
 friendly to liim ; but we went ourfelves and returned, and met the 
 fame cl\ ilities every where. 
 
 On our return, brother Broomhall, through fatigue, and catching 
 cold, h;id one day a fliarp feverifli attack. One of the priefts told him^ 
 this ficknefs was infllfted upon him by the Otahcitc Eatooa, who 
 was angry, and would kill him. Broomhall faid he was not at all 
 afraid of their god, who was a bad god, or rather no god ; that our 
 Jehovah fent it, and would remove it the next day. The faying- 
 inllantly fprcad among the natives ; and Brother Broomhall began to 
 tear he had fpokcn too hallilv and unthinkingly of his fpcedy reco- 
 very, and that God might be diflionourcd if his illncfs increafed : he 
 therefore looked up carncflly to God in pravcr to heal him. The 
 priefl came to him again and again, as he turned in his bed, and 
 afked if he lliould be well to-]'norro\N ? He faid, he trufiied his God 
 would reilore him. lie had a refrcfliing night's flecp, and on the 
 morrow found himfclf recovered, and rofe. Many of the natives that 
 day queftioned him if he was well, and fecmed aftoniflied at his reco- 
 very. The prieft, among the reft, defircd to know if the Pretanec 
 God had fent away the ficknefs ; he iaid. Yes ; and took this occafion 
 to fpeak to him about their jiiperlHtions, and urged that the gods 
 w^hich he and his deluded follow ers worfliippcd were no gods ; but 
 the priell: infilled that they had gods, and a great many, and that 
 they prayed to the good ones to keep away the bad ones ; and if he 
 did not blefs the food, the bad gods would enter into the mtn and 
 kill them. Brother Broomhall replied, that they were under no ap- 
 prcheufion of the bad god entering their food, let him pray as much 
 'as he pleafed, he flaould eat without fear; but the prlelt i'aid, he did 
 not wifli to do lum harm, and walked off confounded. This circum- 
 ftance flicws we muft expect oppbfition when ^\c ha\e acquired the 
 language, and go forth among them to tellify that their deeds are evil. ■
 
 May.] to THE SOUllI-SEA ISLANDS. 1(35 
 
 O tliat wc may rejoice iu being counted worthy to fuffer lor Chnll's 
 name fake ! 
 
 The accounts of ibrmer navigators as to tiie popukmfncfs of the 
 country are greatly exaggerated. Wc tliink that not a iburtli part fo 
 many will be found as Captain Cook fuppofcs, perhaps not a tenth. 
 
 In this excurfion we vifitcd one chief, in whole houfe \\ere many 
 wooden gods, of different names: tlic god of the fun, and moon, and 
 ftars, of men, and \\ omen, and children, &c. They had each a fword, 
 axe, or hammer in their hands, which, the pricll faid, was to kill 
 thofe who offended them, unlcfs they offered a lacrifice or atonement 
 for their crime. When they offer any thing, \^ hethcr men or hogs, 
 or a canoe, they iliy, " Take this, and be not angry." — ^Yet to thefc 
 •wooden reprefcntati^'cs they fcemed to pay little refpeft. 
 
 15th. Held a very profitable meeting, to exprefs the feelings of 
 our minds refped;ing the work in which we arc engaged. Haffell and 
 Hodges Vvcnt to feck free fand at Oparre, but found none. E\ery houfe 
 offered them fowls, if they \\ ould lla\- the dreffnig ; and at Pomarrc's 
 a hog was immediately killed and dreffcd ; thej got twenty pine-apple 
 plants : and as they returned they were met ca cry \\ here by the people 
 A\ ith apples, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit ; and one man forced upon 
 them a baflvct containing a roafled fowl and bread-fruit, ^\hich they 
 brought home. " I took occafion," fays one of them, " to fpcak 
 " againll their intoxication with ya\a. Thcv laid it only made them 
 " dance, and tobacco did the fame. 1 %\ilh it nc\er had been brought 
 " iiere by us." 
 
 IQth — 23d. Se\eral fuccccding days arc onlv marked with ordinary 
 occurrences. Happily to-da^■ our filler Hcnrv incrcalcd our number 
 with u healthy female child, after a fafe and cafv deli\erv. Thus, 
 inllead of death making iroads among us, and in a climate fo different 
 from our nati\e ioil, not one of us is debilitated with diieaie. Surely 
 the defire of every heart is to devote all our Itrength to the glory of 
 the great Author of it. 
 
 2"th. The boat goes on briftly, and will foon be finiflied. Two
 
 ]66 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 of us went to examine the coral reef before the mouth of the river : 
 on the infide the depth is very irregular ; in fbme places the water is 
 two or three fathoms, in others a boat can fcarccly pafs. The bottom 
 is beautiful ; branching trees of coral, with fmell fifh of the moft beau- 
 tiful and vivid colours fwimming in the midft of them. Our canoe 
 upfet, but no danger enfiied. 
 
 28th. " This evening, after divine fervice, I walked," fays W. 
 Puckey, " with a native who had been fome time with us; and from 
 " the beautiful fcene of creation around us, I took occafion to dif- 
 *' courfe of Him who made all thefe things. He faid, The God of 
 " Pretanc made all things there, but not at Otaheite; that one of their 
 " gods reached up, and ftuck the ftars in the fky ; and that Mawwa, 
 " a being of enormous ftrength, holds the fun with ropes, fo that he 
 " may not go fafter than he pleafes. I endeavoured to undeceive him 
 " refpe<5ting thefe tales of their priefts ; and, pointing to the houfe at 
 " Oparre, told him they were no gods who were placed there, but the 
 " work of men's hands ; for there the three great gods, Ooroo, Tane, 
 ** and Taroa are, to whom they only facrifice in great extremities, 
 *' w^hen the priefts fay they are angry. I afked the young man, how 
 " they knew they were angrj-. He faid. By fpcaking to us. I afked 
 " how this was done ; he laughing faid, on thefe occafions, a pricft 
 " wrapped himfclf in a bundle of cloth, rolled up like a ball, and 
 " fpoke in a fharp, flirill, fqueaking voice, * I am angry; fetch mc 
 " hogs, kill a man, and my anger will be appeafcd.' I endeavoured to 
 " fhcw him the folly and knavery of the impofture, and regretted my 
 " want of words and language to make myfclf better underftood. 
 *' May the Lord haftcn the happy time, when the power of the gofpcl 
 '* fliall take root in the hearts of thefe benighted people!" 
 
 20th. Rcfolved, without delay, to ere6l a building for Mr. Lewis 
 to print a vocabulary and grammar ; and that each member have a 
 copy, and one be fent to the directors, 
 
 30th. Manne Manne fcnt his tayo, Mr. Cover, a prefcnt of a 
 •4oublc canoe, three goats, and about twenty fowls ; with thefe came
 
 May.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 1G7 
 
 a letter from Andrew, the Swede, diredied to Mr. Cover, wherein he 
 cxprcfl'cs a defire to have fume of the carpenters fent over to Eimeo, 
 to affill in finiiliing Munne Manne's veffel. We much fufpccft the 
 truth of what it contains, it is as follows : 
 
 " Sir, 
 
 " Upon tiic rcqueft of your friend Manne Manne, I mufl inform 
 " you, that he defires your brethren would come over to us as foon 
 *' as poffible ; and if no more than one can be fpared, that he would 
 " bring a faw along with him^ by means of which we may be able 
 " to proceed in finiiliing the veiTel, which, at tlie prefent time, is in 
 " danger of being b\irnt down to allies, on account of a fpite that Po- 
 " marre's wife has agalnft the old man and ine, and even yourfelves, 
 " for us telling her that flie was in the wrong in killing of her own 
 " child. She has ordered the people in almoft every dillri<5l of Eimeo 
 " to feizc upon the old man, and kill him, and us, and every one that 
 " fhould take his part. We were aflaulted the 8th of this month by 
 " an infurrediion of about three hundred men, belonging to our own 
 " place, that came on purpofe to infult us ; but wc being forewarned 
 " a few days ago of their intentions, they did not fucceed to their 
 " willi, as the fteward and I were on our guard ; and, as loon as they 
 " began to infult the old man, by firing a round or two amongll 
 " them they difpcrfed without the lofs of any life, or hurt, except one 
 " man that was wounded by me, at the firft onfet, with my cutlafs. 
 " They have now afked our pardon, and begged peace ; but are ftill 
 *' very miftruftful of them, as they have removed what little they have 
 " to a diftant part ; that we are under the neceffity of keeping a good 
 ■•* look-out at night, for fear of them fetting fire to the houfe, which 
 " they have threatened to do. So if you cannot fpare any of the bre- 
 " thren to come over, pleafe to fend word by the bearer of this what 
 " you think is beft to be done. And, if any one fhould come, I would 
 " advife them to bring fomething of defence with them, as tliat would 
 *' greatly add to the fecurity of ourfelves, as well as that of the veffel.
 
 iC8 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 " He lias llkewife fulfilled his promife to you, by fending you a pair 
 " of canoes, three goats, and fome fowls. He has alfo lent by the 
 " bearer two pieces of red cloth, which he ^\i flies you to get made 
 *•■ into an uniform coat, tvirncd up with black or blue, and to have it 
 -'•' done as foon as poffible, fo that the bearer of this may bring it back 
 " with him when he returns, -which will be fome timenn going round 
 " to Tiaraboo. 
 
 " For my own part, I am forrv I could not come o\ er to you, on 
 " account of the old man beina; afraid to ftav by himfelf amonsll: 
 " thofe troublefome neiirhbours of ours. We are ftill contented, and 
 " will be more comforted by hearing that you and your brethren enjoy 
 " good health, unity and concord amongfl; yourfehes, and peace w ith 
 " the natives. I have no more new s at prcfent, and therefore remain, 
 " with eflcem, }'our friend and wcll-wiflier, 
 
 (Signed) *' Andre\y Cornelius Lixd." 
 
 At a meeting of the brethren, where this letter was read, it was 
 thought vmfafe for any of them to go to Eimeo while there was a caule 
 of apprehenfion and danger. Neither could they at that time fjiare a 
 faw, as they were employed in much neceiTary work of their own. 
 But they agreed that the coat for Manne Manne fliould be made \\ith 
 all poffible difpatch. 
 
 We have ftrona; intimations 2;iyen us that Micklevyright and the 
 Swede intend to feize Manne Mannc's veflel as foon as flic is fit for fca, 
 and make for Port Jackfon. 
 
 This afternoon our boat being completed, with the help of the na- 
 tives, wc got her out of the houfe, and launched her into the rixer. 
 It is twenty-two feet long, fix broad, forty-fix inches at each end ; the 
 bottom lc\ cnteen ; height t^vo feet fix inches. Forty natives and two 
 or three brethren jumped in as ihe went off, and rowed down to the 
 lea : flic moAcs very fwiftly, confidering her flat bottom, draws only- 
 two inches of water, and Is about fix tons burden. 
 
 June ift. Held our preparation meeting for the Lord's fupper ;
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 1C9 
 
 brother JcfFcrfon, leader : a precious and profitable fcafon ; great open- 
 ncfs of heart. Where any grievance had fubfiftcd, each acknowledged 
 his fault, and cxprefTed tender mutual forgivcnefs ; and much bleffing 
 followed. 
 
 2d, 3d. Employed in fitting up a printer's fhop. Vifitcd by a 
 number of ftrangers, and by Whydooa, the younger brother of Po- 
 marrc, with his wife, a very elegant woman: fitted up a bedftead for' 
 him, with which he was highly gratified. 
 
 4th. Enjoyed the ordinance of the Lord's fupper. A large body 
 of natives aflembling round us, wc cnibraccd the opportunity of read- 
 ing to them an addrefs, tranflated by the Swede, which they faid they 
 underftood, exprelTcd thcmfelves pleafed, and fpoke of it to one an-- 
 other. 
 
 5th.. About fifty people crofi!ed the river, fent from Pomarre with 
 provifions, confiding of three hogs, bread-fruit, cocoa.-nut, and moun- 
 tain plantain, which each man carried at the ends of a pole pafTed. 
 over his fhoulder. 
 
 Gth. The monthly prayer-meeting at nine. How many holy hands . 
 arc lifted up for us ! 
 
 7th. The natives who live with us pilfer from us; one of thcni 
 this morning confefled, and impeached his companions. They charged 
 principally two pcrfons who had left us : thcfe were fent for, and one 
 of them being taken, owned the ftealing of a large axe, and a check 
 Ihirt. He was impriloncd, but the llolcn goods being brought back 
 by his friends, he was releafed with a reprimand ; a cleaver was alfb 
 found at Attahooroo, and brought back. The other thief being at the 
 ifland of Eimco, the natives fet off in a canoe to take him.. In the 
 evening I fpoke to the young man we had difcharged, reminded him 
 of the kindnefs we had fhewn him when ill, and his ingratitude ; he 
 faid, with tears in his eyes, he was a taata cno, a very bad man.' 
 
 gth. Dr. Gillham having his clothes ftolen while he was bathing, 
 three or four of us purfucd the thief; he fled. Hearing a drum, we 
 hailed to the place, and ha\-ing intelligence the thief was there, we 
 
 z.
 
 170 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 ruflied in, and fclzcd him finely drefled for dancing ; about a hundred 
 fled in a minute ; we begged them not to be frightened, as we only 
 wanted the thief, whom wc brought off, and chained to a pillar of the 
 houfe ; yet he contrived to go off with the padlock ; but being pur- 
 fued, it was recovered, and he was difmiffed. None ever think of re- 
 filling; yet, ftrangc to tell ! though they will run any rifk to ileal, 
 they fcarcely ever ufe what they get, but lay it up. Pomarrc and 
 Otoo have each more articles than any among vis, yet they produce 
 none, wear only a piece of cloth round them, and are ever craving for 
 more. 
 
 1 1th. Brother Co^-er baptized the infant daughter of brother Henry, 
 and preached a very judicious difcourfe on baptifm. Many of the 
 natives were prefent, and looked with wonder, as if inquiring, what 
 can thefe things mean ? They all expreffed great pleafure that a white 
 woman had produced a child among them, and are exceedingly fond 
 of the infant. Hearing a heeva the other fide of the river, we called 
 to them to defiil. Old Pyatea's wife came out, and faid they would 
 do fo no more, as it was the God of Pretane's day, and immediately 
 left off dancing. 
 
 We walked up the valley about a mile, where we have tlioughts of 
 ere6ting our new manfions ; fat down under a tree : the natives, men, 
 women, and children, flocked around us, and fat down ; we fung 
 an hymn, and went to prayer for the falvation of the heathen, in 
 which themfelves joined in attitude. " O how I antedate the time," 
 fays Puckey, " when I fliall be able to fpeak the language of thcfe 
 " poor heathen ! what opportunities fliall I then enjoy! O for more of 
 " the primitive zeal of God's faints to declare his truth !" 
 
 12th. This day the coat was fent to Eimeo for Manne Manne by 
 a man from Cornelius Lind, who waited for that purpofc. A letter 
 accompanied it in anfwcr to that we had rccci\ed.
 
 J-jNE.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 171 
 
 " Sir, Mataval, June \2ih. 
 
 " Your letter of the 1 0th vilt. I received on the 20th, with a canoe,- 
 ' three goats, and fevcral fowls, as a prefent from my tayo Manne 
 ' Manne ; for which you will make him my grateful acknowledg- 
 
 * meats, and ailurc him it w ill afford me pleafurc when I fliall be able 
 ' to render him a more fuitable return. Your requeft: that two of the 
 ' miffionaries might be fcnt to affill in finifliing the veffcl, I laid 
 ' before our body, and it was unanimoufly agreed, that in the prefent 
 ' ftatc of the fociety we could not part with any of the brethren, bc- 
 ■' caufe of the work neceffary to be done before the arrival of the Duff, 
 ' which we exped: in a few days ; and all the time we can fpare will 
 ' be needed for getting ready our letters for Europe. 
 
 " With refpcil to the infurre6lion you mention of the 8th ult. va- 
 ' rlous reports have reached our ears, \n hich give us great uneafmefs, as 
 ' we were informed you had killed two men. Knowing neither the 
 ' caufe which led to the perpetration of fuch an a6l, nor the confe- 
 ' quences which might rcfult from it, wc were induced to recall five 
 ' of our brethren who were on leave of abfence in the diflricl of Pa- 
 ' parra and Tiaraboo. We hope you. gave no caufe to the natives to 
 ' commence fuch an affault. If it. really originated in the breaft of 
 ' Iddeah from the part you took in reproving her for her crime, fear 
 ' not her difpleafure : the Lord who hatcth iniquity is able to deliver 
 
 * you out of her hand. You ailt our advice, what is beft to be done : 
 
 * we really know not how to counfcl you in this refpedl, but hope 
 ' your perfons by this time arc out of danger of Iddeah's refentment. 
 ' Should it continue on the caufe you fuggcft, we lliould afford you 
 ' protection under our roof- 
 
 " By the bearer we fend an uniform coat for Manne Manne, made of 
 ' the cloth fentus, and hope it will give him fitisfaClion. The brethren 
 ' join with me in grateful acknowledgments for all fervices ; and 
 
 " I. remain your fmccre friend, 
 
 " J. F. Cover." 
 
 Z2
 
 172 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 A fadl was reported to us this day, which, if tnie, was fhocking. 
 In one of Captain Cook's vifits he left a great monkey, who was 
 made a chief at Attahooroo ; he had a wife and thirty fervants, and 
 abundince of c\ cry thing : they called him Taata ooree harrai, the 
 great man dog. One day the woman feeing him catch the flies and 
 cat them, which they abominate, flie ran away into the mountains ; 
 the monkey and his toutous purfued, but being met by Temarre, who 
 was jealous of his authority, he knocked him down with a club, and 
 killed him. 
 
 One of our brethren this evening fitting in his birth writing, a 
 yovuig girl came in, and exprefled her furprife that we behaved fo 
 different to them from what all our countrymen had done. He told 
 her that fuch praftices were wicked, and that if we did fuch thing:? 
 our God would be angry. " Oh," faid fhe, " but T will come to you 
 " in the night, and then none can fee us." — He replied, " Nothing 
 " can be hid from our God ; the night to him is as bright as the day, 
 " and there is no darknefs or fhadow of death where any of the workers 
 " of wickcdnefs can hide thcmfclvcs. But, if you firft put away your 
 "evil cuftoms, then we flaould love vou." 
 
 14tli. Vifited by Mawroa, with a vafl fupply of vegetables; three 
 arrcoics accompanied him, amazingly fat, and tattoued all over. This 
 focicty is conllantly wandering about from ifland to ifland. They are 
 the fineft perlbns we have fccn, are faid to have each two or three 
 "wives, which they exchange with each other ; and inhumanly murder 
 •every infant that is born among them. Wherever they go they exer- 
 cife power to feize what they want from the inhabitants. They fmite 
 their hand on their breaft, and fay, " Harre, give," whenever they 
 covet any thing, and none dares deny them. They never work ; live 
 by plunder.; yet arc highly refpc6lcd, as none but perfons of rank are 
 admitted among them. This makes women fo fcarcc, and other horrid 
 vices fo common. May God haften the time of reformation ! 
 
 iGth. The weather has been imfcttled for two or three days. In 
 general we have had it delightful and pleafant ; and no hotter than
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 4 71 
 
 wc have felt in England. Wc have been able to work all day without 
 inconvenience. 
 
 IStlv. Opened the day as ufual, and enjoyed much of God's pre- 
 sence ; embraced the opportunity to addrcfs the natives in a wrlttcw 
 difcourfe. They aflured us that men, women, and children underftood 
 us, and faid, in Englifli, " Very nice, and very good;" repeating it 
 often, but defired we would put away the Prctane parow, and fpcak 
 to them in their own tongue, w hich we promifed them to do as fooix 
 as v\e fliould be able. And oh, that He may give us fome of thefc 
 fouls for our hire, who fent us hither ! We might have a hoft of con- 
 verts if, like many miffionaries, we would admit to baptifm thofe wh© 
 confefs our God and religion to be better than their own. But till we 
 fee them created anew in Chrift Jcfus, and turned truly from darknefs 
 to light, and from the power of Satan unto God, wc fliall not admit 
 them to the participation of our facred ordinances. 
 
 A brother took occafion to fpcak to Tappeoy, one of our affiftants, 
 and explain what Mr. Cover had preached in the morning, and told 
 him he had himfclf left father, and mother, and filter, and many 
 friends, to inform him about our God and Saviour Jcfus Chrill:, &c. 
 He liflencd with attention, and feemed much affcded, faying. Never 
 Encilifliimcn there before talked and adled as we did. 
 
 IQth. Got up the flag-flaft" forty feet high, rigged like a mail, but 
 had like to have lofl my life, fays W. Puckey, in procuring it from the 
 mountains, whither wc went. The natives climb like fquirrels. I fol- 
 lowed them till the rock became perpendicular, and I dreaded, when 
 I looked down, how to defcend again without being dafhcd in pieces. 
 I committed myfclf to God, and holding by little pits in the rocks 
 very flippery with rain, dcfcendcd trembling ; one hold failing, I mull 
 have gone headlong down the precipice ; indeed, without the help ot' 
 the natives, I never could have got down at all. I immediately offered 
 them all the fifli-hooks and beads about mc. One llranecr onh' ac- 
 ccpted a filh-hook ; the roll refufed to take any thing from me ; and 
 he who took tlie hook faid he would go and get the pole we wanted.
 
 174 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 A chief had a hog ready dreffed for us, and faid, any poles we 
 wiflied fliould be fent on Friday. As we came back we found the 
 riv^er much fwollen with rain, and were carried o\x'r in many places 
 by the natives. The valley was full of apple-trees loaded with fruit, 
 and hundreds lying on the ground neglc6led. 
 
 On the 24th feveral natives came from other diilridls where the 
 bread-fruit began to be fcarce, to gather fomc from the trees in Mata- 
 vai ; upon which thofe of the diflridl, confidering the brethren as pro- 
 prietors, came and complained to them ; faying, that except they pre- 
 vented it, there would be no fruit left. Accordingly two of our body 
 were difpatched to talk with them, and claimed their fole right to all 
 the produce of the trees. The ftrangers promifed to come no more, 
 only begged permiffion to take what they had got, which was granted > 
 and alfo a canoe lent them, the better to convey the fruit home. 
 
 The old chief, according to promife, brought us the poles, for which 
 a knife was given him, and fome red feathers, which greatly delighted 
 him. Went to Oparre in our boat for wood ; hofpitably entertained ; 
 vifitcd the moral, where the great god Ooroo refidcs ; reprefented by 
 an ugly piece of wood ; faw there feveral altars and fkuUs of men who 
 had been facrificed. One of the altars was forty-five feet long, fup- 
 ported on pillars of the bread-fruit tree about fcvcn feet high ; the 
 other about twelve feet fquare, and on the top an arched flied like the 
 tilt of a waggon ; here the wooden god was laid. One IkuU we ob- 
 ferved fplit acrofs, and in the midll: of the moral a fait pool with a 
 young turtle. — Oh ! when fhall all thcfe horrid fcenes be clofed, and 
 Chrift alone be exalted ? 
 
 2.''»th, Service as ufuaL The natives are Acry fond of being dreffed; 
 we have lent clothes to feveral, which at night they honeftly returned ; 
 but they have committed fomc petty thefts, and we hardly know what 
 to do with them: we are loth to punifli them, yet impunity emboldens 
 them in depredation. 
 
 A native coming into our apartments, a brother took occafion to 
 fpeak to him about God. He owned the Otaheitcan gods were enow,
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 175 
 
 bad, for they ate men, hogs, bread-fruit, &c. which the Pretane God 
 did not, and was " a good fellow," an Englifh term he had picked up. 
 He obferved alfo, that when we fpoke to the Pretane God the good 
 rain comes, and when we do not the good rain goes away, and the hot 
 fun fliines ; a heavy rain having fallen on two fucceffive fabbaths. 
 
 20th. A great quantity of bread-fruit was brought to-day to make 
 mahie, as the time approaches when ripe fruit will be fcarce in the 
 diitrift for two months. It is truly wonderful to fee how Providence 
 has furniflied this place : as foon as the bread-fruit fails in this diftriA 
 it is ripe in another, fo that we never want. Cocoa-nuts and plantain 
 we have all the year round ; as the evee apples get ripe on one tree, 
 young ones come on in another. Few trees ever lofe their leaves, and 
 are only deftitute of fruit for about two months. 
 
 27th. A prefent came from Pomarre for the two brethren who 
 work at the forge : a pair of good canoes, feven lobfters, a number of 
 fine fliells, feven or eight couple of fowls, two large hogs, with a 
 quantity of Otaheitean cloth ; and a meflage to come to him for more 
 whene^-er they wanted. 
 
 28th. A looking-glafs was ftolen by a female nativ'e from the 
 women's apartment ; we refolved to expel the man and his wife till it 
 was reflored. Held our monthly meeting before the communion in 
 great union of heart. 
 
 2gth. Had a ncft of fix young rabbits ; if they profper, the hills 
 will foon breed them in abundance. Met before the communion ; 
 happy unanimity prevailing among us, and unreilrained freedom of 
 communication. Paid a vifit to Oparre ; moll: hofpitably entertained 
 by Mawroa : he appears a fteady friend. About half the beautiful 
 valley in which he lives belongs to him ; went with him a-fifhing with 
 a fmall feine ; caught plenty of falmon-trout. 
 
 30th. Preparing letters for the return of the vefTel, and our ufual 
 employments. 
 
 July 111:. Otoo f nt a melTage, defiring us to difchargc certain per- 
 fons from the houfc, whom he dcfcribcd as great thieves ; at the lame
 
 176 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 time he nominated others, whom he wiflicd to recommend to us in 
 the capacity of fervants. Thefe the brethren knew to be the creatures 
 of Otoo, or, more properly, a part of his mifchicvous gang, and fa^v 
 clearly, and without unjuft fufpicion, that he wanted them in for no 
 other purpofe than to fteal with the greater facility ; therefore his mo.- 
 tion was rejected. Though it was true many things had been ftolcn, 
 yet we did not think the fervants guilty : but Otoo's having his own 
 men conftantly going about the diltrifts ftealing from the poor natives 
 whatever they fee, fufRciently characterizes them, and would deter 
 our people from keeping any of therr). about the houfe. 
 
 5th. A grand aflcmbly of arreoies vifited Pyeteah, and began their 
 fports on the other fide of the river ; many came over the river, and 
 heard brother Cover, forming, as ufual, a half-circle before him. 
 
 6th. A great fliout of the natives this morning, " Te pahee,. 
 •' Te pahec," brought us out of our houfe, and to our great joy the 
 white fails flione before us ; w^ent many of us on board, and rejoiced 
 with the captain In the perfedl health and fafety of all tlie crew\
 
 JuLT.] " TO THE SOUTII-S^A ISLANDS. 177 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Tranfaclmis during our Stay at OtuJwUe, and Survey to afcertahi ilif 
 
 Population of the IJland. 
 
 THE tranfaftions of this fccond vifit will dcfer\c 11 difclncl conii- 
 deratlon. The joy of meeting was great, bat the ftay of the 
 fliip being no longer neceffary, a fpeedy departure was announced, and 
 every preparation begun : among thefe was the difcharge of the re- 
 maining cargo, and thofe treafurcs of iron and ftcel that were to be 
 now finally divided between the miflionarics at the Friendly and 
 Society Illands. Accordingly, on the 0th of Julv, Mr. Harris being 
 landed with his property, in the evening the captain went on fhorc; 
 when a meeting was held, where the public iournal was read, and 
 various matters were difculfed concerning the proceedings of the fo- 
 cicty, and how they fliould divide the things in the fliip between 
 them and the party at Tongataboo : when it \n as agreed to choofe 
 two brethren to a(!:l in their behalf, and two for themfelves, under the 
 infpcdlion of the captain. 
 
 "th. This morning the four miffionaries appointed to di\ ide the 
 goods began their work; the captain fuperintended, and Mr. Jefferfon 
 afled as fecrctary, taking an account of the various articles which each 
 party received. This bufmefs, it was forcfeen, would coft much time 
 and trouble ; but as no other method could be devifed of giving all 
 parties fatisfadlion, the captain promifed to ftay till the firft of Augufl, 
 which would alfo give the brethren time to finifli their letters. The 
 captain obferves with pleafure, that the two brethren appointed to re- 
 prefent their brethren at Tongataboo were moll attentive to their intc- 
 reft, and rather a larger Ihare was allotted them than if two of them- 
 iclves had been prefent. 
 
 A A
 
 m FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 An invitation was fent to the wives of the miffionarics, w ho, agree- 
 ably thereto, dined and fpent the day on board : they expreffed much 
 plcafurc on finding us all in good health and fpirits, and left us in the ■ 
 evening highly delighted with their vifit. As for the natives, they 
 crowded on board, few coming empty-handed : many of them were 
 in the Englifh dreffcs which had been given them by the brethren ;. 
 and feveral of them fpoke many phrafes of broken Englilh, fuch as, 
 " Welcome again ; Glad to fee you, Captain Wilfon." 
 
 8th. Iddeah fent a meffenger this morning to know if flie might 
 come to our houfe. On confultation, we agreed that brother Cover 
 Ibould go and fpeak with her ; and that if fhe expreffed any concern 
 for her cruelty to her infant, and aflured us fhe would no more offend' 
 us with fuch conducT:, we fliould be glad to receive her. In this flic 
 acquiefced, though we have no great profped:- of a <:hange : fhe came, 
 however, under fuch profeflions, and drank tea with Mrs. Cover; and- 
 continuing with us till dark, returned much pleafed with her reception. 
 
 gth. To-day being Sunday, not one canoe was feen off in the bay,- 
 and the whole diflri6l appeared remarkably quiet. Mr. Cover and 
 Lewis came on board to a&. as chaplains for the day : the former 
 preached in the forenoon from the fecond eplflle of Peter, chap, iii, 
 ver. 18.; the latter in the afternoon from Philippians, chap. i. ver. 28. 
 
 10th. Andrew the Swede came from Eimeo, and prcfcnted the 
 captain with a fine turtle. Mawroa, a kind friend to us aiid the mif- 
 fionaries', brought a hog and a great quantity of bread-fruit ; his wife, 
 named Aowh, was with him ; fhe was formerly the wife of Motuara, 
 chief of Eimeo, is the real fifter of Pomarre, and mother of Tetua the 
 prefent queen, Otoo's wife : fhe is a very intelligent woman, and Maw- 
 roa himfclf is better acquainted with the iflands than any man we 
 have converfed with. Aowh informed us, that in the family of which 
 file was a branch, the reigning prince had been called Otoo ; which 
 name pafTcd to their firft-born, w hethcr male or female, the inflant it 
 was born ; the cuflom obliging the father ever after to take fome other 
 name. I mentioned before, tliat the grandfather of the prcfcnt Otoo
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 17D 
 
 changed his to Otey, his father to that of Tcina, and next to that of 
 Pomarre, and fon ; for having loll their royalty by the birth of their 
 child, they may change their names as oft as they pleafe, but cannot 
 before. Otey was the father of Pomarre, Orecpiah (lately deccafcd), 
 Whydooa, chief of Wapiawno, and Aowh. Wh}dooa is an arrcoic 
 of the firft rank, has a rough, difgufting look, and is much addided 
 to ava drinking ; he was amongft our vifitors of this day, and received 
 a prtfent : they were exceedingly glad to fee us, and exprefled much 
 iittachment 
 
 It has already been noticed, that fome of the brethren had made 
 a tovir of the ifland, and i'uppofcd the number of inhabitants on both 
 peninfulas to be about fifty thoufand : this fum, though lefs than a 
 -quarter of what Capt^-rn Cook calculated them at, was ftill thought 
 by us as greatly exceeding the population. Therefore Captain Willbn 
 agreed with Peter to afcompany me in a circuit of the ilkind, and to 
 try fome method of eilimating the number of people in each diftjict. 
 On Tucfday the 1 1th we accordingly fet off, having firft engaged a 
 4nan to convey us acrofs the numerous rivulets \\hich we muft ncccf- 
 farily pais, and two others to carr^^ my linen and what tilings Pqtex: 
 wanted. It was about noon when we landed near One Tree hill, and 
 began the journey eaftward through the interior of Matavai, where the 
 land is far from being clear of underwood; for the bcft roads are un- 
 pleafant by reafbn of the long grafs, which bears a bur called by the 
 natives peerce-peeree, and adhering to the flockings becomes painful: 
 the flies were alfo very troublefome. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut 
 trees abounded in perfedlion, and afforded an excellent fliadc from the 
 heat of the fun. In this diftrid: there are alfo the wild cotton trees, 
 fome of which were in bloom, , -but being of a very inferior kind made 
 no luxuriant lliew ; fome fpots were planted with ava and fugar-canc, 
 and in fome places the latter was growing wild. 
 
 The river of Matavai receives its fupplics from the lofty mountains 
 which hereabouts form the Interior of the ifland ; then running a 
 winding courfe down the valley, and through the low grounds oi 
 
 A a 2
 
 180 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i79r. 
 
 the diftricl:, panics clofe by the miffionary houfe, and dircmbogues at 
 the extremity of Point Venus. At the entrance from the fca it is lb 
 /hallow, that no reflel drawing above two or three teet water can enter 
 it ; nor can thev proceed farther up than a quarter of a mile. Wh«n 
 we came to its banks, Peter fliewed me the fpot where he displayed 
 his firfl" feats rn their wars, and which ultimately ended fo much in 
 favour of Pomarrc and his Ton Otoo. I defu-ed him to give me fome 
 account of them. He immediately complied ; but dwelt fo much 
 upon his own performances, as rendered it difficult for me to feparate 
 the cffentlals of the ftory from his frivolous boafting. 
 
 The' firft war, he laid, happened in 1793, when he had been but 
 iiAe months upon the ifland. It feems, that a chief named Whanno 
 had fucceeded in wrefting the diftritl of WhaplSwno from Whvdooa ; 
 and confcious that by this ufurpation he would offend Pomarre, he 
 prepared to attack him firft, but did not conduct his plans with fo 
 much fccrecy as to prevent his defigns coming to the knowledge of 
 Pomarrc. The latter, though not a warlike chief, prepared to oppele 
 Whanno with all his flrength. Peter and Andrew were engaged) 
 with the Jew, who was a good markfrnan, Whanno had to aflift him 
 almoft every chief on the north-eaft fide of the large peninfula. When 
 all was ready, the latter chief fent word to Pomarre of what he in- 
 tended ; and a day or two after entered Matavai with all his mem 
 Iddeah was at that time on fome bufinefs at the caftern part of the dif- 
 tri6t, and nearly fell into their hands ; they chafed her to the river, 
 ■where Pomarre's party flood ready to receive them. Iddeah got lafe 
 over, and placed herfelf in the front of the men ; when one of the 
 enemv, bolder than the reft, ran- acrols the flream, and aimed a flroke 
 at her ; and would, buti for Peter, who ftood clofe by, have effcfted 
 her death : he running to her aid, and feeing the man lift his clubj 
 wreftcd it out of his hands, chafed him back through the river; and 
 more of the party coming up, the man was killed. The body of 
 Whanno's troops had retired a little back; but one fkulking behind 
 a tree'was Ihot. This threw all the rcfl of Whanno's men into a
 
 July.] to TlUi: SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. I8i 
 
 panic ; they precipitately fled, and in great confurion ; two more were 
 flain in the chafe, from which Pomfirre returned vidtor. This fccurcd 
 to him the diftridls of Matavai, Oparre, and Tettaha, all he fecms 
 then to have been poflcifed of. Five or fix d;i}s after this lie rnuftercd 
 his men, now lluflieJ with fliccefs, and proceeded to Whapiawno. 
 Whanno and his men were afraid ; a running fight took place, one 
 woman was killed, but the warriors fled to the mountains. However, 
 in three days they came down and-renewed the combat, and ^^■Grc now 
 fevercly beaten, no lefs than twenty-five of their number being flain ; 
 which, confidering their fhyncfs to clofc in battle fincc the introduc- 
 tion of a few mufkets, was certainly a great number. This \ icRory 
 entirely cruflied Whanno, and by it all the northern fide of the penin- 
 fula, from Matavai to the ifthmus, became fubjedt to Pomarre and his 
 fon Otoo. Still they had powerful enemies who were meditating a 
 grand attack upon them ; thefc were Wyhcatua, king of Tiaraboo, 
 and Temarrc, chief over all the diftri6ls on the fouth fide from the 
 ifthmiis down to Attahooroo : over the latter diflrift was young 
 Towlia, who wiflied to remain neuter, but was forced by Pomarre to 
 join his party, thovigh he was more inclined to favour Temarrc, and 
 was afterwards charged with having lecretly concerted matters fb as to 
 gain him the battle. Tcmarre encouraged his men by telhnG; them 
 tlKit he had niulkets, pow^der^ ball, and white men, as well as his ad— 
 \erfary ; and that themfelves were more numerous than Otoo's party.. 
 The whites he had were Connor, an Iriflaman, and James Butcher, a 
 Scotchman, both of the Matilda's crew. Accordingly, about a month 
 after the battle of Whapiawno, thefe powerful advcrfaries met in the 
 diftrid: of Attahooroo ; but being afraid of each other in no fmall de- 
 gree, the firfl day was fpent and nothing done. In all their movements 
 they furroundcd the white men, trufting more in them than ever an 
 Afiatic did in his elephant. On the fecond day the onfet began ; but 
 in a fnort time Towha's men, who were in front, ran away, and afl 
 Pomarre's followed their example ; which was afterwards charged on 
 Towlia, as his preconcerted fchemc : Peter, Andrew, and the Jew,
 
 182 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i7Q7. 
 
 however, Hood their ground, and fliot four men. Butcher and 
 Connor were obliged to run for their lives, and Oammo, the father 
 of Temarre, was killed by a mu{I^:et fkot. Thefe advantages brouglit 
 their party back to affift them ; all their adverfaries fled, and a com- 
 plete vid:ory was gained for Pomarre, w^hom they found at a great 
 diftance from the fight, quite overcome with fear, and lying flat on 
 the ground, held faft by the roots of a tree. When they acquainted 
 him with their fuccefs he would hardly believe it, but continued to 
 lie like one out of his fenfes : fb little courage did this chief of the 
 victorious army poffefs. The routed party fled to the remoter diflriils; 
 fome took refuge in the hills ; one man in particular got up a very 
 dangerous precipice, and threw large ftones on his enemies below, 
 and kept his ftation till he knew their rage had fubfided. The con- 
 fequence of this battle was, that Temarre became fubjed; to the victors ; 
 was obliged to give to Otoo the great moral at Pappara : alfb every 
 other privilege of the fupreme chief. A houfe w^as built by Otoo" in 
 all his difliriifs, where fome of his fcrvants conflantly refide, and he 
 occafionally viflts : they reprefent his fovereignty, and none dare to 
 pafs them without ftripping, the fame as to himfclf. However, not- 
 withflanding thefe things, the power of Temarre was ftill vpry great ; 
 he -was left in pofleflion of all his ditlri6ls, and exercifes the ofiicc ot 
 chief prieft of the Eatooa on that flde of the ifland. 
 
 Towha being charged with treachery, was flrippcd of his diilriA, 
 and obliged to live as a private man in Pappara. Wyheatua had fled 
 •to Tiaraboo, where in a fliort time after he was defeated, and reduced 
 in a like manner as Towha to a private ftation, and Otoo's younger 
 brother made prince of his kingdom. 
 
 Pomarre being now in pofleflion of all Otahcitc, thought of re- 
 venging the injury the chief of Eimeo had formerly done by dcftroying 
 :his canoes and the houfcs of Matavai. With this intent he fent 
 Jhis party againft that ifland, where his filler Wyrcede Aowh made 
 ■fome refiftancc ; but fcvcn of her men being killed, fhe was obliged 
 to acknowledge the conqueror, and take up her refldcncc in Ota-
 
 JbLY.J TO TFTE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. ia3 
 
 hcitc. In her flcad Iddeah and Mannc Mannc were made chiefs of 
 the illand. 
 
 Thus Pomarre (the Otoo of Captain Cook), on whom, the favoiir 
 of the Englifh had drawn many enemies, and who at -different times 
 was fo chafed and flraitened by them, that, afraid of his life, he has 
 frequently entreated his visitors to take him off the ifland, had now, 
 at a \cry good time, extended his power far beyond all former example, 
 and that without either courage or talents for war comparable to his 
 enemies ; fo that I cannot but afcribc it to the providence of the Al- 
 mighty, who ordereth all things after the counlel of his own will, 
 and for the accornplilhmeut of his g'ory and gracious purpofes. In 
 whatever way thele -events are viewed, they certainly are much in fa- 
 vour of the miffion ; for it is clear, that thofe employed in it can pro- 
 ceed in their work with greater fafety than when the natives were con*- 
 tinuallv ensjaoced in war. 
 
 Leaving Matavai river, we came to the eaftern part of the diftricl 
 of Ma"-.! ai, called Teahonoo, over ^^hich Wyreede Aowh prcfides-. 
 She and her fecond hufband, Mawroa, were at Oparre, where they 
 alfo have a dwelling. Their houfe in this place is exceedingly neat 
 and clean ; before it is a platform of gravel ftoncs carefully lc\clk-d 
 and fmooth, and at the front of this a regular row of cocoa-nut trees ; 
 and by the fide of the houle a fine rivulet of frefh water runs from the 
 hills. The low land hereabouts is not more than a hvmdred yards wide. 
 Her fervants were buiy preparing a brown dye from the bark of a tree 
 called mohoo, which they broke fmall into a bowl of water, and let- 
 ting it lie till foftened, they bruifed it till the liquid became of the 
 colour they wanted. We next afcended a high hill called Tappahev, 
 which rans into the fea, and feparates Matavai from Wl^yripoo. The 
 hill is included in the former diftrlcl, a great ftone on the eaft fide 
 being fixed on for the boundary of each. 
 
 From Tappahey the fmall diftri(^t of Whyripoo extends near a mile, 
 the lliore ffraight, and the low ground about two himdrcd yards wide; 
 it has alfo a valley of fmall extent. We wallced about half way along
 
 184 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 it, and {lopped for a while at the houfe of Inna Madua, the widow of 
 Oreepiah. She was abfent, but her head fcrvant Aheine Eno received 
 me kindly, and would have drcffed fome filTi if I had promifed to 
 wait ; but wanting to go further, I declined his offer. This man 
 having a fhrcwd, Intelligent covuitenance, I defired Peter to communi- 
 cate to him the purpofc of our journey, and to afk how many perfons 
 he thought ufually rcfided in Whyripoo; affigning for our motive the 
 wilh of the carees of Pretane to render them fervice according to their 
 numbers : when he inftantly fuggefted a mode, which I afterwards 
 adopted. He faid that in Whyripoo there were four matteynas, and 
 to each matteyna there were ten tecs ; and by thefe he efllmated the 
 number of men, women, and children, to be about two hundred and 
 fifty. I dcfncd him to explain what a matteyna was, and what was a 
 tee. The former, he faid, was a principal houfe, dlllingulflied either 
 by a degree of rank in its ancient or prefent owner, or by a portion of 
 land being attached to it ; and fbmetimes on account of its central 
 fituation to a iew other houfes : that the matteyna fets up a tee (or 
 image) at the moral, which entitles it to the liberty of worfliipping 
 there ; and the other boufes in the department of the matteyna claim 
 a part in the fame privilege, .and are thence called tees : that In fbmc 
 matteynas there are eight or nine perfons in the family, in others but 
 two or three ; and that it frequently happens, that a matteyna or a 
 tee is totally deferted. Therefore, from this account, and what 1 
 afterwards faw of the thin population, I allaw but fix perfons to each 
 matteyna, and the fame to a tee, as the latter is often occupied by a 
 larger family than the former, and as both terms do fometimes apply 
 to the fame houfe ; confequently, as often as this occurs,, there will 
 vs 111 be an error of fix in excefs. 
 According to the above, the number in 
 
 "Whyripoo is — — Mat. 4x0= 24 
 
 Tees 40 X = 2-JO 
 
 204 fouls.
 
 July.} TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. i85 
 
 Aheine Eno, the name this man at prefent went by, means a bad 
 woman ; it fecms that his miftrcls Inna Madua was a character of 
 this kind, and had got this name from the natives ; but not hking it, 
 transferred the name- (though not the odium) to her fervant. Th.is 
 diltridl did belong to Whapiawno, but was lately prefentcd by Why- 
 dooa to hir; brother's widow. 
 
 The next projecting hill which obftruifled our paflage is called llow- 
 row-apiire ; it divides Whyripoo from Whapiawno : we paffed it by 
 the fca up to the ancles in water, and then had to walk round a bay 
 about a quarter ofa mile wide, when wc came to a fine border of low 
 land, which at this part; being the weft entrance of the diftrict, is 
 about a furlong and a half wide, in length coaftwife a mile and a half, 
 and at the eaft part not quite a furlong wide ; thence to the eaft end 
 of the diftridl the hills run clofe to the lea, and the road lies over rug- 
 geci fliarp rocks. There is a fine valley which opens about a mile eaft 
 of Row-row-apare, abounds with fruit-trees a confiderable way up, 
 and is inhabited. This is the only valley that runs quite acrofs the 
 ifland ; on the oppofite fide it opens into Papparu, a little weft of the 
 great morai. 
 
 Whydooa refides at the weft part of the low land ; and as it was too 
 late for me to reach another diftri6l, I propofed ftaying here for the 
 night. Both himfelf and his wife I knew were at the ftiip, but his 
 head man, or overfcer, very readily drcifcd a pig ; and after wc had 
 dined I to6k a walk through the diftrift, and Fctcr with me. The 
 houfes here were all neat and well-built, and there was brcad-ftuit in 
 abundance. We ftopped at one place where three houfes ftood, and in- 
 quired of the owner, how many matteynas were in the diftricl ; to 
 anfwcr this he took fomc fmall rods, and naming each matteyna as 
 he counted them into Peter's hand, made the whole number thirty- 
 two, including Whvripoo, for which he counted the fame as I had 
 got before ; therefore, deducing four, the number is twenty-eight". 
 In fomc, he iaid, were ten tees, in others nine, eight, and fcven ; and 
 made the fame obfervations on their being peopled as Ahcinc Er.o 
 
 B n
 
 186 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 had done : therefore, as I could not get the tees cxaftly, I counted as 
 under : viz. 
 
 Matt. 
 7 of 10 tees =701 Brought forward 2Gi 
 
 7 of 9 do. = 63 I 233 X 6 = 1498-1 ,-nr »i, r <•.% n • , , i 
 
 7 of 8 do. = 66 f 28 X 6 = 168/ = 1_^ thofc of the valley included. 
 
 7 of 7 do. = 4yJ „ , 
 
 18o0 men, women, and children. 
 
 Before we got back to Whydooa's houfe it was dark, and they had 
 all gone to reft but one man, who fliewed me to a new houfe, where, 
 for want of bed or bed-clothes, I flept on the ground, and fpent the 
 night very uncomfortably ; and might have fpent it worfe, had not 
 Peter, towards morning, lent me a blanket, which he had brought as 
 a neceflary article in travelling round Otaheite. 
 
 12th. At daybreak we proceeded on our journey, and paffing fe- 
 veral good houfes, came to the river, which is here three feet deep. 
 My man Charles took me on his llioulders, and carried me through 
 with great eafe. When we had gone a little farther we came to a 
 very bad road, having to walk over the ftones fallen from the rocky 
 cliffs which proje(5l here. One place was very dangerous ; it is called 
 Oratatahah. We had to afcend the cliff half way, and pafs along a 
 narrow path where was hardly room to fix the feet. Tlie rock is 
 quite perpendicular ; and, had we fallen, it was near twenty fathoms 
 above the fea, which beat violently againft the bafe. Here it is faid 
 Pbmarre once fell, but the tide being up at the time, wheif he found 
 he was going, he threw himfelf well off, and received but little harm. 
 When we had fafely paffed this fpot, we fat down on the rocks to 
 brcakfaft on the remains of Whyddoa's pig ; for it is the cuftom here,, 
 that whatever their hofpitality provides for ftrangcrs, the fragments of 
 it are always brought away. About nine o'clock we came to a fteep 
 rock which terminates Whapiawno, and forms the weft point of a 
 fmall bay. The eaftern point is called Owhoona. Betwixt the two 
 is a fmall diftridl called Wharoo-my, over which Wyreede Aowh pre- 
 fides ; it has a valley running up a little diftaacc ; it has but one mat-
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTIT-SEA ISLANDS. is/ 
 
 teyna and nine tecs, equal to fixty pcrfons. A little further eaft is 
 another fmall diftricl belonging td Manne Mannc, called Hc-wow ; 
 it has two matteynas ; in one there are feven tees, in the other four, 
 which makes the number of inhabitants feventy-eight. Mannc Mannc, 
 who has feveral of thefe cftates, was at Eimco, and the care of the 
 place was in the hands of Teboota, his head man, who was at this 
 time carrying on the building of a. large houfe for the old prieft. Te- 
 boota prcfuming on his mafher being tayo to tlie captain, infilled on my 
 ftaying to refrefh at his houfe, and immediately began drcffing a 
 couple of fowls and a young pig. In the interim the people ran from 
 every quarter of the dil"tri6t, in order to gratify their curiofity ; yet 
 when they had all got together and fat down, I could count no more 
 than thirty-five, which is certainly no fign of extraordinary population. 
 After receiving a good dinner from Teboota, and much kind treat- 
 ment, my followers packed up the fragments, and I paid our generous 
 hoft with a draft on the captain for a pair of fciflars ; and as they have 
 no doubt of the fpecified 'value of the paper, and have learnt how to 
 negotiate the notes, he feemed quite rich. What a comme;icement 
 of civilization ! 
 
 We next came to the fmall diftridl of Hahbawboonea, and paffing 
 a hill called Oteteawno, reached another almoft equally fmall, named 
 Honoowhyah. In the former are one matteyna and eight tees, equal 
 to fifty-four pcrfons. The latter has three matteynas, containing in 
 all twenty-eight tees, and one hundred and eighty-fix inhabitants. 
 
 The fliore along thefe two difl:ri(fts is a fandy beach, and bending a 
 little inward makes a curve. The low land on which the houfes arc 
 built forms m each place a kind of triangle, the interior corner of 
 each being joined to a valley, formed by fteep hills on each fide, 
 which are covered with trees to their fummits, and running in a 
 winding dire<5lion: they afford a view remarkably wild and romantic. 
 Rivulets of excellent water run through both difiriels, which, not- 
 wlthftanding, hardly defcrve to be mentioned for fertility. 
 
 Otoo has one of his regal houfes in Honoowhyah, and, in paffnig 
 
 B B 2
 
 188 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [irgr^ 
 
 it, my company was obliged to Iliip, Nearly cppofite is a fmall rock, 
 a little way advanced into the fea, -facred to the feet of Otoo ; for 
 none befides dares to rtand upon it ; and I think he deferves to fland 
 the ftatue of Folly, if ever he raifes his own living image there. In 
 walking along, about forty people came with great eagcrnels to gaze ; 
 had the place been populous, I think more would have come, 
 
 , Rounding another hill, we came to the diftriA of Nahnu Nahnoo : 
 it belongs to Pomarrc, and is much like thofe I had lately paffed in 
 appearaiice and population ; it has three matteynas and eighteen tees» 
 which makes the number of inhabitants one hundred and twenty-fix. 
 
 The next dividing hill is called Peepe-pee ; we walked round it 
 over fliarp rocks, which are a kind of bafaltes. A little further eaft- 
 ward there is a gentle flopc from the hills towards the beach, and upon 
 this Hope arc many cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, but no houfe or 
 inhabitant. After paffing this we camx to the diftrid: of Otyaree ; in. 
 the middle of it the low land is about a furlong wide, narrowing to- 
 wards the extremes. The fliore is a flat rock ; the coafl bending out 
 and in. I Hopped at a chief's hovxfe ; his name is Noe Noe ; and had 
 the following account : namely, two matteynas and tv/enty-two tees, 
 equal to one hundred and forty-four inhabitants. This chief had a 
 double canoe juft finiflaed ; it was the largeft I had feen, meafuring in 
 length fifty-eight feet, exclufive of a long board wliich runs over the 
 forepart; the ilern was twelve feet high, though a-midfliips only 
 three feet and a half. The tw:o were faflened together in 'the ufual 
 method by rafters, upon which a platform was made, where a houfe 
 was intended to be placed for the principal perlbns to fit or fleep in ; 
 and this I fuppofe is one of the larger war canoes, though not fuitcd 
 for expert manoeuvres. 
 
 Having done my bufinefs here, I intended to have gone a few miles 
 farther, but had not proceeded many yards when I met Poppo, the tayo 
 ofX)r. Gillham, who entreated me to flay all night at his houfe; 
 which offer I accepted, being rather fatigued with traAcUing over bad 
 loads all the day, Poppo w as very afliduous to entertain rae well. A
 
 JuLT.] TO THE SOUTIl-SEA ISLANDS. isg 
 
 pig was inftantly kiljcd, and a comfortable bed prepared. Here about 
 forty people coIlc(ited. Tlic fuppcr, which was very good, was fcrved 
 up with fait water. Before I werit to reft 1 made my kind hod and 
 his wife each a fmall prcfcnt, and in return they gave me tlie cloth 
 wliich compofed my bed, and alfo an upper garment. 
 
 ,13th. At daylight we renewed our journey. Poppo accompanied 
 us to the end of the diftrid:, which is at a hill called Annaboo : from 
 hence I firil got a fight of Tiaraboo, but flill at a confidcrable diftance 
 from It. The dillric^l wc were now come to is called Wahaw-heinah. 
 The low land is here about a qiiartcr of a mile broad, and the fame 
 in length ; bfehind are -lofty hills, forming two valleys, whence run 
 large rivulets of water, which, atter intcrfc(5ling the low ground in 
 feveral places, unite near the fea, and form a deep and rapid ftream. 
 In fording it my man Charles was up to the middle, {o that in rainy 
 weather it muft be impracticable to crofs at all. The coaft along the 
 diftrift bends in ; the beach is black coral fand, and on it the fea broke 
 ■ violently. 
 
 We flopped at a houfe as large as that of the miffionaries, where 
 were leveral natives, but none pofTclTed the intelligence we wanted ; 
 therefore one was difpatched to bring a proper pcrfon, who informed 
 us that in the diflridl were four chiefs, of whom Roorah was pririci- 
 pal'; each is over a matteyna ; two of thefe matteynas have elevca 
 tees each, one fifteen, and one fixteen ; the number of people is ac- 
 cordingly three hundred and forty-two. 
 
 Proceeding thence,, the next hill (or cliiF) we came to is called Boo- 
 te-awmoo, which diyides thoi latter difcridl from Hedeah, which laft 
 runs quite to the ifthmus. Off this place where wc now were, and 
 diftant about a mile from the Ihore, there lie tw^o fmall iflets ; the 
 wefternmoft is called Booroo, the other Wharre-arra-roo. From thefe 
 Charles informed me that a reef runs quite down to Matavai : it lies 
 abf)ut two miles off Ihore, and has in fome places only four and five 
 fathoms water upon it.
 
 igo FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 Turning the point of Boo-te-awmoo, the land bends •fouthward to- 
 wards the ifthmus. When we had got a little way we flopped at 
 Peter's friend's houfe : he was by tirade a fiflaerman, who fiipplied his 
 neighbours with fifh, and received from them canoes, hogs, fruits, 
 roots, and cloth. He had been on the reefs, and came in while we 
 flaid with fome lobPiiers and mullet, of which he gave us a part, 
 and I paid him with a pair of fciffars. At this houfe were about 
 twenty perfons colledled. Including the family. We left this place ; 
 and as I walked along the difi:rldl, I obfervcd more weeds and under- 
 wood than in any part of the road which I had pafled : fome places 
 of confiderablc length had nothing but long overgrown grafs, which 
 obllru<R;cd all pailage but by the fea-fide. The houfes vyxre thliily 
 fcattered, and as thinly inhabited; in moft of them they were building 
 canoes, but none of a large kind. They all had iron tools ; the hatchets 
 were taken off the helves, and fixed as adzes. I inquired for a Jione 
 hatchet, which will foon be a curiofity to themfclves ; but they had 
 none : alfo how long it took them to build a canoe with iron tools ; 
 they anfwered, about one moon. I then afked them how long they 
 formerly were in doing it with their flone hatchets : at this they 
 laughed heartily, and counted ten moons. When we had reached 
 nearly oppofite to Bougainville's harbour, the natives directed us to a 
 chief's houfe, where we found Inna Madua, who, fince the death' of 
 her hulband, is chief o^-er all Hedeah : though this was iiot her 
 dweliing-houfe, flie neverthelefs ailumed the command; and ordered 
 a dinner inftantly to be dreffed. In the interim the old chief gave U3 
 the name of every mattcyna in the diiirid, from Boo-te-awmoo to 
 the illhmus, as follows :
 
 July.] 
 
 TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 
 
 191 
 
 Matteynas. 
 
 Tea. 
 
 Matleynas. Tees. 
 
 Malleynas. 
 
 Teet. 
 
 Matleynii. 
 
 Tees. 
 
 Rah-ouicy 
 
 2 
 
 Attc-popu-te 3 
 
 Nooahnah 
 
 (i 
 
 3d Mattaheyaboo 6 
 
 Mattalicyaboo 
 
 2 
 
 'I'ootaluah 2 
 
 Toutc-tooah 
 
 3 
 
 Sd Ah-hotoo-tej 
 
 nah 6 
 
 Raa-oureycnia 
 
 1 
 
 A-hoU/o-tooahnah 2 
 
 Arce-tye 
 
 3 
 
 Wah-tcy 
 
 4 
 
 Wattaiow 
 
 1 
 
 Ah-hotoo-t'>ynali 2 
 
 2d Tahmatta-oura i\ 
 
 Atr-'-hoonoo 
 
 2 
 
 Atta-toutou 
 
 4 
 
 Tahmatta-oura 4 
 
 Attc-oumah 
 
 (i 
 
 Attc-to-aree 
 
 2 
 
 Attamayhowc 
 
 
 
 Atte-inah 4 
 
 Arra-\vh\ nah 
 
 12 
 
 4th Mattaheyaboo 2 
 
 Attclarrcc 
 
 1 
 
 Arroo-attomah 3 
 
 3d 'I'ahmatta-ourah " 
 
 ^ )-how])ay 
 
 4 
 
 Do. 
 
 1 
 
 2d Ah-hotoo-teynah2 
 
 4th do. 
 
 7 
 
 Attc-t" vce 
 
 4 
 
 Attc-hourah 
 
 2 
 
 Oroopah 2 
 
 Atte-houah 
 
 2 
 
 Ottowah 
 
 17 
 
 Attt;-tc-hcy 
 
 2 
 
 Attc-liayrcynah 3 
 
 To-e-orah-p,ah 
 
 -mooah ;) 
 
 
 — 
 
 8d Mattaheyabo 
 
 3 2 
 
 Ah-how-atouah (J 
 
 Atte-eynah 
 
 6 
 
 
 47 
 6 
 
 
 20 
 
 33 
 
 • 
 
 6; 
 
 
 
 ()' 
 
 ()' 
 
 
 6' 
 
 
 283 
 120 
 
 
 120 
 
 198 
 
 
 402 
 
 
 198' 
 
 
 
 
 4D2 
 
 
 
 
 1002 
 
 
 
 
 
 42 matteynas x by 6 = 
 
 2j2 
 
 Men, women, and chihlren 1254 
 
 This may be thought but a fmall number for fo large a dlfl:rl<fl, 
 efpecially when the magnitude of Captain Cook's and Lieutenant 
 Corner's eftimations is confidercd ; but according to the beft of my 
 judgment, after paffing through it, and paying every attention, I think 
 even this fmall number exceeds the truth ; and fiircly it is no argu- 
 ment in favour of great population, that at this houfc where 1 got the 
 account, no more than thirty people flaould be colle(H:ed at any time 
 while I ftaid, including Inna Madda's retinue, and thofe whom eager 
 euriofity brought to fee me.. 
 
 When we had dined, Peter informed me that it was too late to 
 proceed, as he knew of no good lodging-houfc but at too great a 
 diftancc ^ therefore we ftaid where wc wxre for the night. My bed 
 and Peter's was laid at one end of the houfe. Inna Madiia prefented 
 me with more cloth for iheeting, and I gave her in return a pair of 
 fciflars, a looking-glafs, and fomc trifles I had purpofely brought to 
 anfvv'cr fuch occafions. In this houle was an epitome of their general 
 employments : at one end women were pafting cloth together ; fome- 
 men were making finnet and lines, while ibme ilept, and others were 
 drinking ava : this laft they drink in an unfocial manner, by one, two,, 
 or three at a time, and out of a. fmall cocoa-nut flicU ; whereas at the:
 
 192 FIRST MISSIONAR.Y VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 Friendly Iflandsj one or two hundred form a rino:, and from a Iar2:e 
 bowl they Ihare nearly all alike ; but it fecms to be fo fcarce here, that 
 none except the earecs can be flav ilhl}- addi<5ted to it. This evening 
 1 learnt that, befides the members of the arrcoy fociety, it is the 
 common praiftice among all ranks to ftrangle infants the moment they 
 are born. A perpetrator of this horrid aft was among thofe whom 
 curiofity drew to vifit us: fhe was a good-looking woman, and efleemcd 
 by the natives a great beauty, which I fuppofe to be the inducement 
 that tempted her to murder her child ; for here the number of women 
 bearing no proportion to the men, thofe eftecmed handfbmc are 
 courted with great gifts, and get fo accuftomed to chano!;e their huf- 
 bands, to go with them from place to place, and run after the diver- 
 fions of the ifland, that rather than be debarred thefe pleifures, they 
 ftifle a parent's feelings, and murder their tender offspring. As no 
 odium whatever is attached to this imnatural deed, many hundreds 
 born into the world are never fuffered to fee the light. When either 
 father or mother are difpofed to fave the child, they fometimes fuc- 
 ceed, but not always ; for if the woman fays fhc will not rear the 
 cliild, the man in general fiabmits to her will : on the other hand, 
 when liic proves humane, and he is fleady to his cruel purpofe, the 
 infant is often fav^ed, for fhc orders matters fo that fome neighbours 
 fhall interpofe, and if the child is not inftantly put to death, they dare 
 not do it afterwards ; but the mofl infenfible become as fond of their 
 children as any refined people can be. I fhall only notice farther, that 
 both parties do oftener make up their minds to fave the male than the 
 female, which partiality accounts for the difproportion of tjic foxes, 
 and is none of the Icafl: caufcs of the thin popv.lation ; for the men 
 that are not wealthy in cloth, hogs, orEnglifh articles, wherewith to 
 purchafe a wife, miifl go without one ; and this leads them to prac- 
 tife the great crime of onanifm to an exccffive degree, and renders 
 them unfit to cohabit v/ith women : but all their vices of this nature 
 " are too fliocking to be related. When the arreoies deftroy their chil- 
 dren, they fay it is to retain the privileges of their fociety : but what 
 cxcufc can thofe make who arc not of their number ? It is faid of
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLAINDS. i^a 
 
 Gelon, king of Syracufe, that having conquered Cartliagc, lie made it 
 the chief article in the treaty of peace, that they fliould aboliih the 
 cuftom of facrificlng their children. And while humanity refled;s and 
 flmddcrs at the behaviour of the Otaheiteans, one can hardly help in- 
 dulging a wlfli that either the fword of a Gelon, or rather the fpirit 
 of the Prince of Peace, •were applied to oblige them to rclinquilh their 
 abominable and unnatural pradllccs. 
 
 l-4th. About fix in the morning -wc arofc, packed up our things, 
 and proceeded on our journey. Inna Madua accompanied us to her 
 proper dwelling, which lies near a mile farther on. Here I thought I 
 got a fight of an European garden; the plats of ava-ground were laid 
 out in fuch nice order : each bed formed regular parallelograms, 
 trenched two feet deep, and dlfpofed with a great degree of tafte ; the 
 whole cnclofcd v\ ith a fence of bamboo. Her houfc, which vras full 
 one hundred feet long, flood on the fea fide of the garden. At this 
 place we parted from her, and walked about twcj miles along an irre- 
 gular coaft, where the low hmd in moft places is very narrow, and 
 hardly a bread-fruit or cocoa-nut tree to be fcen. We then came to 
 another dangerous cliff called Pah-rah-tou-tea. As we paffed along 
 the fide next the fea, the footing was extremely narrow, and the figlit 
 below tremendous. Dcfccnding the oppofite fide, a valley opens, run- 
 ning betW'Cen lofty hills, with a triangular piece of low land near a fur- 
 long in length, and a river of confiderablc depth and breadth. Ciofc 
 to the fea the paffage is narrow ; there we forded, and afcended a 
 ftcep hill, from the fummitA:»f which we had the choice of two roads ;' 
 the inner one v\as much out of our way, and by the outer A\e mull 
 dcfccnd the cliffs : however, thinking this no ^\•orfe than tliofe we 
 had paffed already, wt took the latter, but prefently came to a moft 
 ularmlng place, about fix yards wide, where there appeared neither 
 place for hands nor feet. Here I was at firfl afraid, and had thought.^ 
 of going back ; but with the help of the Otaheiteans, Avho are ufcd to 
 this work, I got along fafe. Obfervlng an old man had followed us 
 fiom Inna Madua's houfe, Peter inquired what he wanted; lie an- 
 
 c c
 
 194 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 fwercd, that Inna's mother had ordered him to follow, and if I cave 
 any thing away in the diflrift, he was to feize it, and take it to her. 
 
 When we had got within a fhort mile of the ifthmus, in paffing a few 
 houfes, an aged woman, mother to the young man who carried my 
 linen, met ns, and, to exprefa her joy at feeing her fon, ftruck herfelf 
 fevcral times on the head with a fliark's tooth, till the blood flowed 
 plentifully down her breaft and flioulders, whilft the fon beheld it 
 with entire infenfibilitj-. I was not aware of this aiftion to prevent it, 
 but as Ihe continued it without mercy on herfelf I fpoke to them an- 
 grily, and obliged her to dcfill. The fon feeing that I was not pleafed 
 with what w^as done, obfer\ed coolly, that it was the cuftom of Ota- 
 heite. When we had gone about a furlong farther we put up for the 
 night, at a houfe which lately belonged to a woman with whom Peter 
 "had lived, but ihe. was now dead. She had been wife to Richard 
 Skinner, one of the unfortunate mutineers, who was loll in the Pan- 
 dora, and by him had two fine girls, who are now about fix or feven 
 years old ; they are of a fair mulatto complexion, and very' li\ ely and 
 talkative. Since the mother's death Peter has taken care of them ; 
 they were glad to fee him, and received each a fmall looking-glafs, as 
 did alfo the woman of the houfe. When we had refled a few minutes, 
 Peter informed them that fmce the fun was at fuch a height we had 
 not eaten any thing : this being known, it was impoffible to behold 
 with indifference the joy which thofe kind people expreff^d on having 
 an opportunity of entertaining me ; they inftantly drcflcd a couple of 
 fowls for my dinner, and a pig for the Otaheiteans and Peter ; for he 
 pretended, that, being obliged to comply with fome of their cuftoms, 
 he durft not eat in the houfe where I was. After enjoying a comfort- 
 able meal, as the cool of the evening by that time drew on, 1 got 
 Peter, who, as well as myfelf, was rather tired with the day's walk, 
 to accompany me to the top of one of the adjacent hills, on each fide 
 of which ran a deep valley. From the centre hills towards the fea, for. 
 a little diftance up, the hills abounded with cocoa-nuts and bread- 
 fruit, and the more, interior parts with mountain . plantain, tarro, and
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 1()5 
 
 a variety of other things, which they have rccourfc to when the low 
 land cannot llipply all their wants. Ailcing Peter what reafons they 
 gave tor not cultivating more of thofe articles on the low ground, as 
 it was evident they would grow as well, or better, there, he faid it 
 was on account of the havoc made by the arreoies, and thofe who ac- 
 company Otoo in his feaftings round the ifland ; at which times, 
 though they only ftay two or three days in a diflridt, they confume 
 and wantonly deflroy all the produce, and often the young plants, 
 leaving nothing for the fettled inhabitants of the place to fubfift on, 
 but what they derive from the mountains : on this account they fubmit 
 to the trouble of climbing almoll inacceffiblc places, rather than ex- 
 pofe much of the produce of their labour to thofe privileged robbers. 
 From this hill we alfo had a view of the coral reefs which lie intcr- 
 fpcrfcd along this coaft, fome of them a confiderable dillancc oft* 
 fliore : there are feveral openings, and probably anchorage within moft 
 of them ; but I apprehend the ground muft be rocky, and bad for 
 cables. Rcfpecfling the difl:ri6t itfelf, from Boo-te-awmoo to the place 
 where I now was, clofc to the ifthmus, it is little better than a wilder- 
 nefs of rank weeds and ufelcfs trees, and that even in places where the 
 low land might be rendered moft fertile and valuable, thou2;h it no 
 where exceeds two furlongs in width. In fome places where we \\ere 
 obliged to quit the fea-fide, travelling became exceedingly fatiguing, 
 on account of the long grafs, weeds, marflies, and numerous rivulets 
 of water : in others the hills project into the fea, and form broken and 
 dangerous precipices, fome of which I have noticed before. Befides 
 this, it merits the name of a defolate diftricl, from the few houfes it 
 contains, and its thin population. However, the place where I now 
 was might be deemed an exception ; it is about a mile long, and a 
 furlong wide ; and is better furnifhed with houfes, inhabitants, and 
 fruit-trees, than any place of equal fize in the diftrict. 
 
 When we returned to the houfe wc found a fervant whom Pomarrc 
 had fent to meet and condudl me to the place in Tiaraboo where 
 hJmfelf and retinue were preparing for a great fcafl ; but as this took 
 
 c c 2
 
 igS FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 me out of the way of my intended route, I fliould not liave confcntcd 
 to It, had not Peter frequently mentioned the precipices at the call 
 end oi the ifland as impaffablc by any but the natives ; who, though 
 even accuftomed to it, w^ere frequently dailied to pieces ; and that, 
 ■without running that rifk, the account I wanted could be equally well 
 got from the chiefs of the feveral diftridls, who would be with Po- 
 marre on the fouth fide of that peninfula. Therefore I agreed to ac- 
 company the man acrofs the ifthmus next morning. 
 
 15th, At daybreak we rofe. Peter then afked me whether I durfl 
 fleep in a houfe where there was a corpfe ; and fhewed me the fkull of 
 Richard Skinner's wife, wTappcd in cloth, hanging to the roof of the 
 houfe. It feems that flie died at Eimeo, and was there put upon a 
 tupapow till the body was dried ; the head was then cut off, and 
 brought to this place, where flie had pofTefTed feveral acres of ground. 
 
 Departing from hence, we afcended a hill, moderately high on the 
 Ptaheite fide, and walked about a mile over a fine piece of land, which 
 flopes gently from the middle clafs of hills to the iflhmus, and is all 
 along covered with a ftratum of rich brown mould, fitter for the pur- 
 pofcs of agriculture than any fpot on the ifland : a {cw trees are fcat- 
 tcrcd upon it ; but on large fpaces there is nothing but grafs and fern. 
 The iflhmus fecmed covered with trees quite acrofs; and beyond it, 
 on the Tiaraboo fide, the land for three or four miles appeared exactly 
 like that I was now upon, covered with fern, and level at top, but 
 broken, or rent as it were, into chafms or deep hollows, and rifing 
 with a gradual afceiit towards the lofty mountains which occupy the 
 middle and caflern divifions of Tiaraboo. At the fouth fide of the 
 iflhmus, where we defcended to crofs, a cove about fixty yards wide, 
 and of depth fufficient to admit a fhip, runs clofe up to the low neck: 
 it would be an excellent place for a fliip to moor in, if a fafe pafTagc 
 could ha found between the large flakes of coral which lie without it; 
 and I do not think this impoirible, though, except commerce were 
 brought thither, it would be unncccfTary. 
 
 Befidcs this cove, wc crofTed two more fliallow ones, and then en-
 
 July.] TO T[IE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. igf 
 
 tcrcd the firil: diftri6l ofTian-xboo, called Toa-howtow. Here the low 
 ground is lb murfny, that at every ftep wc funk almofl: knee-deep. It 
 is alfo covered wilh underwood, hut abounding in bread-fruit and 
 cocoa-nuts. Farther eallward the ground is more dry and hard ; and 
 wc fell in with a few lioufes, wlierc canoes were building; and the 
 women beating. cloth : they informed us that the diftri<fl contained 
 one mattcyna and thirteen tecs, which make eighty-four inhabitants. 
 The next diflri6t is Wyoo-roo ; the chief's name Vee-vee Roo-rah ; 
 it has fix mattcynas, containing forty tees, which make two hundred 
 and feventy-fix Inhabitants ; and with rcfpcct to the foil, fruits, &c. 
 is cxadlly like Toa-howtow : the low land in both is fcarce a furlong 
 wide, and the coaft waving.. 
 
 It now began raining hard, which obliged us to flop where was a 
 chief who knew Peter. His canoe was hauled upon the beach, and 
 the little houfe taken off it for him .and his wife to fleep in. And this is 
 their common pradtlce; fo tliat wherever they land, if in a large canoe, 
 they always have a houfe in readinefs. While we fat under an ad- 
 joining fhed, and the chief' and I were exchanging prcfcnts, a boy 
 picked my pocket, but finding himfelf difcovered, he dropt the booty;, 
 however, the chief was fo enraged, that he immediately went in pur- 
 fult of the boy, and intended to punlfh him feverely if he caught him. 
 
 The rain fvibfiding, we fct off again for Mattahwey, which was 
 the next dlftri6l, and where Pomarre was with his retinue. On our 
 way we were met by the young king, fon of Pomarre, and his be- - 
 trothcd wife, both carried upon men's flioulders ; he allied for an axe, 
 fciffars, &c. but I had none to fpare, therefore defired him to go to 
 the pahie (Ihip), and they fliould be given him. He alfo afked Peter 
 feveral queffcions concerning the places and people he had iecn on his 
 voyage with us. At laft we reached the head-quarters, which were 
 no more than a few canoe-houfes and temporary flieds, the beft of 
 which was occupied by Pomarre ; and to it I was conducted. As for 
 himfelf, they faid he was at a houfe farther on, bufied with his fer- 
 vants in preparing cloth, but that. a meflcnger was gone to inlorra him
 
 xgs FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 of my arrival. Accordingly he came in a fliort time, exprefled much 
 joy on feeing mc, and faluted nofcs ; he alfo inquired for the captain, 
 and mod on board. When I afked him his reafons for not going to 
 Mataviii, he anfwered, that at prefent he could not poffibly go, it 
 being a very bufy time with him, having to coUetl; canoes, cloth, 
 hogs, &c. to give away among the different chiefs and arreoies, who 
 would attend him to the great feaft at Pappara, which was to take 
 place in a few days, and for which all the ifland was looking up to 
 him. This excufe I had reafon to believe, for public care feemed en- 
 graven on his countenance. However, as he could not go himfelf, 
 he had fent his prime miniller Iddeah ; who, I told him, would not 
 receive fo many things as if he had gone himfelf. He faid, he did not 
 mind the things fo much as the captain's friendflaip. 
 
 I had dcfired Peter, that if a mawhoo came in our way, he fliould 
 point him out ; and here there happened to be one in Pomarre's train. 
 He was dreifed like a woman, and mimicked the voice and every 
 peculiarity of the fex. 1 afked Pomarre what he was, who anfwered, 
 " Taata, mawhoo," that is, a man, a mawhoo. As I fixed my eyes 
 upon the fellow, he hid his face : this I at firft conftrued into Ihame, 
 but found it afterwards to be a womanifli trick. 
 
 Thefe mawhoos chufe this vile way of life when young : putting 
 on the drefs of a w^oman, they follow the fame employments, are 
 under the fame prohibitions with refpecl to food, &c. and feek the 
 courtfhip of men the fame as women do, nay, are more jealous of the 
 men who cohabit with them, and always refufe to fleep with women. 
 We arc obliged here to draw a veil over other practices too horrible to 
 mention. Thefe mawhoos, being only fix or eight in number, are 
 kept by the principal chiefs. So deprav-ed arc thefe poor heathens, 
 that even their women do not defpifc thofe fellows, but form friend- 
 fliips with them. This one was tayo to Iddeah. 
 
 And here we arc furnillied with another impediment to population, 
 'and may afk how fuch a people can poffibly have a numerous progeny. 
 
 At this place mofl of the chiefs of Tiaraboo were aflcmbled ; their
 
 July.] 
 
 TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 
 
 ^99 
 
 canoes were hauled upon the beach, and before their huts vaft quanti- 
 ties of pro\ Ifions were hung upon ftakcs driven into the ground ; and 
 more were arriving from the neighbouring diflrids : all which was 
 perhaps no faint image of the ancient Hellefpont and Grecian camp. 
 From the dilFcrent chiel's I got an account of Tiaraboo, as follows : 
 
 
 
 
 
 Numli. 
 
 Names of Dl'iifls. Names of Chiefs. 
 
 
 Matt. 
 
 Tecs. 
 
 of Souls. 
 
 1 I'oa-how-towc — — — \ 
 
 Vee-ve-roo-rah 
 
 { 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 84 
 
 6 
 
 40 
 
 276 
 
 
 3 Mattahwey — 
 
 Mooee 
 
 
 6 
 
 1>'^ 
 
 270 
 
 t. f^tPfi hrin r 
 
 Pomarre 
 
 
 15 
 
 137 
 
 912 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 O P(-irTiifii"nTi ^-* , 1 . V 
 
 Iddcah 
 
 
 7 
 
 IK) 
 
 756 
 
 O 1 OljUUltlU ^"* • ' ■ > 
 
 9 VVy-yote — i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ,. ^ f Oncofthclc is on ^ 
 1 Eree-mcoo 1 eachiideofthe . 
 12 2d Erce-meoo | j„,ecding J 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tee-yc-a 
 
 
 1 
 
 51 
 
 o43 
 
 13 Haw-bouah • 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 14 Atte-ioutovi — — 
 
 Tee-teah-manoowah 
 
 3 
 
 65 
 
 403 
 
 15 Orrahnjroo — J 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 16 AUah-roah — is the name of the | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 diftrift and valley. The point ^ 
 is called v.)haitapeha — J 
 
 Manne Manne 
 
 
 o 
 
 16 
 
 I OS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 17 Owahie — A I'mall place in the 1 
 weft part of the above bay ■ — J 
 
 Ditto 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 18 Ah-hoo-c — 1 
 
 Pomarre and Taata"> 
 Douah-he J 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 216 
 
 
 Mare-taata-hah (for 
 
 } 
 
 
 
 
 of Towha) anc 
 Houatooah 
 
 4 
 
 47 
 
 "iQQ, 
 
 
 20 Owahelte 
 
 Orc-a-why 
 
 
 16 
 
 So 
 
 312 
 
 21 Tiira-wovv is not inhabited. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Men, ^ 
 
 ivomcn. and children 
 
 in 
 
 riara 
 
 30O, 
 
 4003 
 
 All the eaft part of Tiaraboo confifts of high rugged mountains, 
 which run to the fea-lide, and form ftecp cliffs that are extremely 
 dangerous to pafs : on this account the low land is narrow, and diftri- 
 buted partially ; but from Ohaitapeha bay, on the north fide, and 
 from oppofite to it on the fouth fide, down tow^ards the ifthmus, it runs 
 from half a furlong to a whole one in wudth, and where valleys are, it
 
 '100 FlPvST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 is in confequence wider. There were not many cotton trees to be feen, 
 and thofe few of no value : indeed, no part of this peninfula is com- 
 parable to the diilrifts of Mata^ai, Oparrc, and Attahooroo, in the 
 larger peninfula. 
 
 At night I fpread mv bed in the fame houfc where Peter, Pomarre, 
 and federal others lav ; but little reft could be had, as one or other 
 was talking all the night. Pomarre allced Peter many flirewd quef- 
 tions concerning the places and things he had feen on the voyage, and 
 more particularly about the natives of Tongataboo, as the red feathers, 
 and various manufactures from thence, have given them a high idea 
 of that people. Nothing grows on Otaheite but w hat they mentioned, 
 to know if they had the fame ; and whether they had good land, good 
 canoes, and fine women. They alfo inquired much about the Mar- 
 quefas, and fpoke of the people there as being as far inferior to them- 
 felves in civilization as they really are to Europeans. However, they 
 appeared highly delighted \\ itii the relation Peter gave them of thefc 
 countries : but when he fpoke of the wonderful things of Europe, 
 the}- at firft exprefted furprife ; but not being able to form conceptions 
 of the things he related, their pleafure quickly flackened : whereas 
 the people of the Friendly Iflands and Marquefas are in almoft all 
 things fimilar to themfcbcs ; alike in pcrfon, manners, and drefs; arc 
 tattoued, ha^ e canoes, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, as well 
 as they ; and without thefc articles, they admit of no country to be 
 really valuable, though they do not deny our fupcriority in every thing 
 elfe. At this time Pomarre and his retinue particularly regretted their 
 want of fhips, and knowledge to conduc!:!: them to foreign countries ; 
 and, addrcffing himfelf to me, faid, in a tone of concern, that they 
 were able to go no further than Ulietea or Huaheinc ; and that at the 
 riilc of being driven they knew not whither, to perifli : whereas we 
 could fall for many moons, and in the darkeft nights and flrongeft 
 gales, and after all could come exactly to Otaheite. Thefc were the 
 very ideas he exprcfled. In anfwer to which, I told hiin, that wc 
 once were in the fame predicament, and knew nothing; but that good
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 201 
 
 men broiiirht the fpcaking paper into our country, and taught us to 
 imdcrftaiul it, by nncans of which wc Icarat to know the true God, to 
 build and conduclil fhips, and to make axes, knives, fcilllirs, and the 
 various things which he faw wc poflcllcd : alfo that his tayo Captain 
 Cook had told the carees of Pretane, that neither the king of Otaheitc 
 nor his people underftood the fpeaking paper, nor how to do thefc 
 things. Therefore they had, out of real regard for him, fent the good 
 men at Matavai, to teach him, his children, and people, as we our- 
 fch cs were taught : that, as chief of the illand and regent for his ion, 
 it behoved him to fend his children and the natives to attend to their 
 inftrudions ; for, if they neglcdled the prefent opportunity, no more 
 good men would come to them, but they would remain in ignorance 
 for c^ er. 
 
 I believe he paid as much attention to this as lay in his power, and 
 fuid it was my ty (good), and fo went to flccp. 
 
 iGth. In the morning it rained very hard, which confined us to 
 our quarters till nine o'clock, when the chief and all his fervants fct 
 off to w^ork at the cloth ; and as I Intended to reft all this day, 1 fol- 
 lowed foon after, and found them bufied on large pieces of cloth, about 
 thirty yards long, and four broad ; they had them ftretched along the 
 ground, and doubling each, by laying others upon them, cemented 
 them with a paftc. Pomarre was as bufy as any. Here I faw the 
 mawhoo alfo, w ho wrought with "equal dexterity as the women. 
 
 At a proper time of day a fine roafl pig was brought for dinner, 
 part of which was given me, the rcil went to the chief; but I ob- 
 ferved thofe around him took fo large a fliare, that himfelf made but 
 a fcanty dinner: and this may be the reafon why his head man 
 brought viduals in the dark, on the two nights I flaid there. It fcemed 
 that the hogs wxrc not plentiful here, or they were keeping them till 
 the feaft. 
 
 1 7th. I rofe to take leave of Pomiirrc, and informed him of my 
 intention to return to the Ihip by the fouth fide of Otaheite nooe, and 
 ^vould therefore thank him for the ufc of a canoe. He immediately 
 
 v n
 
 202 mRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. [i-gr. 
 
 ordered one of the bell finglc ones, which Peter was to keep atcer our 
 arrival. at Matavai : he alio pvit in it two large hogs, and fcnt a man 
 to.Wyerc (the firft diftricl we fliould land at), to prepare another, f 
 had given him a pair of fciffars and what I could. fpare: and now he 
 begged a piece of cJoth, which the chief gave me where we flopped on 
 account of the, raiu ; haying got it, he caft his eye on. what I ufed as 
 a b.edi as if dcftrous of that ahb : but obferving his difpofition began to 
 work, I bad him farewell, not without- feeding on.the occaiion. He 
 w^as much afifefled, and faid, if poffible he would- come aad.fee the 
 captain, and , defjred me to. fpeak a good word for Iddeah, that Ihc 
 niight. receive opys (axes), paouties (fcilfars), &c. 
 
 Leaving. this pla.ce we, paddled to the weft ward, and having a ftrong 
 current in our favour were foon paft the ifthmus, and landed in the 
 firft diftri6l, called Wyere, over which Maahehanoo (a .woman) pre- 
 fixes as chief: to her the fou of T.owha is betrothed; they arc both 
 yoking,; perlnips fifteen years old ; he has the moft lively, piercing 
 crtiintenanigc. of any- youth Lfaw. 
 
 4,' Aipe-rfon named Tootahah, who is alfo dcfcended from the earees, . 
 lived here as guardian to Towha and Maahehanoo; he. feemcd well 
 acquainted with many of our cuftoms, and could fpeak feveraL Englifh 
 woids. Previous to bringing, a young. hog which they had prepared 
 for dinner, Xootahah drove four, ftukes in the ground, and m'cdving..a 
 tabic of boards upon then>, he fpread a piece of clean cloth, placed an 
 Engjifh. plate before me, and tried to apologize for not having a knife ■ 
 and fark, and fuch things as he, knew we had on board. Thus, for 
 the firft time, 1 dined in ftyle. among them.. After dinner they put a 
 pig into the canoe, agreeably to the order of Pomarre, and made, fbme 
 other prcfcnts, which I repaid as well as I. could, and left them. 
 
 This is a very good diftritSt; the low land is of various breadths, 
 33 twenty yards, a furlong,- and in fome places half a mile. Next 
 to it arc hills moderately high, forming valleys- of fmall extent ; and 
 beyond are the lofty craggy mountains, which are covered, with trees 
 to the fummit. The dillrid weftward of this is called Wyooreedc,
 
 JiLv.J TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. cros 
 
 and anlvvcrs the fame dcfcription : tlic hill which liparatcs thein is 
 called Ilooamo, where the land bends in; and a little further a point 
 runs off, and a quarter of" a mile without it is the fniall illand Otear- 
 rawah. Another fniall idet lies about a-mlle further along the coaft, 
 called Tahmow. 
 
 As it now began to rain liard, wc landed to take fliclter in the 
 houfes, which are here, as in other places, but thinly fcattered : when 
 it cleared up, Peter and I walked along the beach, while the toutous 
 paddled the canoe. Foot-paths interfected the low ground, but it was 
 bad walking on them, on account of tlie weeds and long grafs being 
 wet with the rain ; and the trees in fomc places {landing elofe to the 
 fca, obftrufted the way by the beach, and forced us again into the 
 canoe; and juft as it w^as dark we reached Attemonoo, afmall dilirid: 
 fituate between Wyooreede and Pappara, and there hauled up the 
 canoe. We thence walked to Temarre's houie at Pappara, and found 
 him quite intoxicated with ava. When they had brought lights I 
 laid my bed down, and being tired with the fatigues of the day, went 
 immediately to refl. 
 
 18th. Temarre had rifen early, and gone to a place comldcrably 
 to the weftward, to worfhip at a morai he had there, but left word to 
 drefs a pig for me. In the interim we applied to an intelligent elderly 
 chief for the number of matteynas and tees which we hadpaffed, who 
 counted them as follows, viz.. 
 
 
 'Matt. 
 
 Tees. 
 
 Inhabitants. 
 
 Wyere 
 
 32 
 
 42 
 
 444 
 
 Wyooreede 
 
 13 
 
 l6l 
 
 1044 
 
 Attemonoo 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 150 
 
 Pappara 
 
 17 
 
 157 
 
 1044 
 
 Aha-aheinah 
 
 8 
 
 105 
 
 C78 
 
 D D 2 
 
 Chiefs. 
 
 Maahehanoo. 
 
 [Tayredhy, wife of Tc- 
 [ marre. 
 Temarre. The above are 
 alfo under him, and he 
 is under Pomiirre, ot 
 . Otoo,
 
 204 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [,7y7. 
 
 After waiting till near eleven o'clock for breakfail, I found, on en- 
 quiry, that the hog they were dreffing was fo large as to require three 
 liours more to do it fufficiently ; therefore I was obliged to content 
 myfelf without breakfaft, and had but a faint hope of a dinner without 
 flaying all day for it. 
 
 The great moral of Oberea Hands on a point a little to the eaft- 
 ward : thither I went, to have a view of fo great a curiofity. Otoo 
 has one of his reprefentative houfes here ; and in paifnig it, fome of 
 his fcrvants, judging whither I was going, followed mc, and were very 
 afliduous in explaining every thing to mc. This morai is an enormous 
 pile of ftone-work, in form of a pyramid, on a parallelogram area ; it 
 has a flight often fleps quite round it, the firft of which, from the 
 ground, is fix feet high, the reft about five feet ; it is in length, at 
 the bafe, two hundred and fevcnty feet, width at ditto ninety-four 
 feet ; at the top it is one hundred and eighty feet long, and about fix 
 wide : the fteps are compofed partly of regular rows of fquared coral 
 flones about eighteen inches high, and partly with Ijlueifh-colourcd 
 pebble flones nearly quite round, of a hard texture, all about fix inches 
 diameter, and in their natural unhewn ftate : this is the outfide. The 
 infide, that is to fay, what compofes the folid mafs (for it has no hol- 
 low fpace), is compofed of flones of various kinds and fhapes. It is a 
 wonderful flrudrure ; and it mufl have coft them immenfe time and 
 pains to bring fuch a quantity of ftones together, and particularly to 
 fquare the coral of the fleps with the tools they had when it was 
 raifed; for it was before iron came among them : and as they were 
 ignorant of mortar, or cement, it required all the care they have taken 
 to fit the flones regularly to each other, that it might fland. When 
 Sir Jofcph Banks faw this place, there was on the centre of the fum- 
 mit a rcprefentation of a bird carved in wood, and clofe by it the 
 figure of a fifh carved in flonc ; but both are now gone, and the ftones 
 of the upper fleps are in many places fallen : the walls of the court 
 have alfo gone much to ruin> and the flat pavement is only in fome
 
 Jl I.Y.J TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 20j 
 
 places difccrniblc. The above gentleman, fpcaking of this court, fays, 
 " the pyramid conftitutcs one fide of a court, or fquarc, the fides of 
 " which woiti nearly equal ; and the whole was walled in and paved 
 " with ilat rtoncs : notwidillanding which pa\cment, fcveral plantains 
 " and treci, which the natives call etoa, grew within the cnclofure." 
 At prefent there is v.ithin this fquarc a houie, called the houfe of the 
 Eatooa, i:\ which a man conftantly rcfides. Sir Jofeph further fays, 
 " that at a fmall diflancc to the weftward of this edifice was another 
 *' paved fquarc, that contained feveral fmall ftagcs, called cwattas by 
 " the natives, which appeared to he altars whereon they placed the 
 " offerings to their gods;" and that he afterwards faw whole hogs 
 placed upon thefe ftagcs or altars. My guide led me to this fpot, 
 which appears alfo to have gone much to ruin : he fliew ed me the 
 altar, which is a heap of Hones, and how they lay their offering upon 
 it; he then went a few yards back, and laying hold of an upright 
 flonc, like a grave ftonc, he knelt with one knee, and looking up- 
 wards, began to call on the Eatooa, by crying, " Whooo, whooo ;" 
 and by afterwards making a whiffling noile, intimated it to be the 
 way in which the Eatooa anfwered them. 
 
 The grand moral formerly belonged to Oanimo and Obcrea, then 
 ■to their defcendant Temarre, and now, fince the conqueft, to Otoo. 
 
 It was paff noon when I got back to the houfe, and Temarre had 
 not returned from his worfliip ; and, worfe than that, there was no 
 profped: of any thing to eat : therefore I propofed to fet off, w hen 
 his wife entreated me to ffay a while longer. This being complied 
 with, they brought the hog fmoking hot, but nearly raw, though it 
 muff have been covered up at leaft four liours, which was owing to its 
 fize, being large enough to ferve forty men. Thus both I and my 
 companions fuffered by the exceffive kindnefs of our hoft. 
 
 When we had taken our leave, and walked about a mile along the 
 beach, we met Temarre on his way home ; and when Peter told him 
 that we had waited purpofely for him^ he feemed much afraid left I 
 lliould be angry, and aiked if 1 was not. On fatisfying him that I
 
 206 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE , [I7g7. 
 
 was not, he then inquired into the caufe of our vifit to Poniarrc, in a 
 way that befpoke jcaloufy, envy, and fear of that chief. After a little 
 conA'erfation we parted. Temarre is fuppofed to be poileiTed of the 
 Eatooa, and, in conformity to that fuppofition, fpeaks in fuch a way 
 that fcarcely any one can undcrftand him. This atfirfh made me think 
 that he ufed that peculiar language faid to be fpokcn by the priefts ; 
 but both the S\\'cdcs infift that the prlefts know no other than the 
 common language, and can always be underflood, except wlaen, for 
 the iidce 6f myfteriouih^fs, they utter their fpeeches in a finging tone; 
 and that even the young gii'Is can" make their fongs equally unintelli- 
 gible. It is alfo faid of this chief that he is now meditating revenge 
 on Pomarre, on account of the death of his father and his own defeat; 
 and in hope of obtaining fuccefs he has chofen Mr. Main for his tayo, 
 whom he has heard fpoken of as a military man, and to whom he has 
 made feveral great prefents. 
 
 ■We flopped at Pappara for the night in the houfc of my tayo Wy- 
 rcede : as I had not fccn her fmce my late arri^■al, Ihe expreffed much 
 joy on the occafion, ordered a pig to be inftantly drefled, and made 
 me a prefcnt of feveral things; among others, a quantity of human hair 
 made into fine fmnet. Here were a number of arreoies with their fe- 
 parate wives, who, by the attachment they fhcwed for their hufbands, 
 feeraed to dlfcountenance the affertion of promifcuous connexion, 
 with which they are charged. Their great numbers made the houfe, 
 which was one hundred and forty feet long, appear like a little village, 
 v/here each claimed the place on ^^ hich his mat was fpread ; and 
 almoft'all were employed in making mats, finnet, &c. As foon as it 
 -^as dark they brought lights, and danced and fung till near midnight, 
 and perhaps v\'ould have continued all the night, had I not begged 
 :.my tayo to caufe them to defift : for the drums appear not to difturb 
 their fleep ; but, when tired with dancing, they lie down, and a frclh 
 party rifes to the fport : and in this manner the arreoies ufually fpend 
 their nights, and thus they traiu the youths to the fame irregular 
 living.
 
 JutY.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 207 
 
 IQth. The morning being fine and clear, \vc walked to the end of 
 the diftri(5l, and croffing a little cove, entered on Ahaheinah. Tluj;. 
 point which, with the cove, feparates the two dilbidts, is called Aboo- 
 roo. Pappara is a diilriA of the middling clals ; for extent of low 
 land and fertility it is better than the north-eaftcrn diftrids, or thofc 
 ofTiaraboo; but inferior to thofc I afterwards came to, viz. ^^.ttar 
 hooroo and Oparrc : however, the low land fcems not to be two fur- 
 longs in width in any place. Ahaheinah has aflraight coaft ; in fc\eral 
 parts the hills projcd to the fea, leaving a- narrow beach or foot-path 
 at their bafc, and where there is low land it isno where above a hun- 
 dred yards wide. A hill called Weypah-toto feparates it from Mah- 
 raw, a fmall divifion of Attahooroo : here Captain Wcatherhead 
 landed in his boats after the iofs of the Matilda, and had his money 
 and clothes taken from him by the natives. 
 
 Attahooroo is divided into two or three departments, over which 
 chiefs fubordinate to Temarre prcfide.. In the account given me they 
 divided it only into tw^o parts, of which the.fouth-caft contains, fifteen 
 mattcynas and one hundred and fifty tees, and -the north part ten mat-» 
 teynas and ninety- three. tecs, including the valleys. Here the Ihorc 
 is waving, and forms a fegment of a circle as it bends round to Tct- 
 taha. The reef lies a confiderable way off, and witliin it the water is 
 fmooth and (hallow, and the bottom a fine white fand interfperfcd 
 with beautiful coral, which makes the rowing over it deliaihtful. 
 Here the illand puts on its raofi: beautiful appearance. A large border 
 of low ground is covered with cocoa, palms, and bread-fruit. Extcn- 
 fwe valleys run confidcrably in-land, and the fides of the hills, which 
 form them, are covered with fruit-trees, and their tops with graf^. 
 The lofty mountains in the higher region are alfo covered with trees, 
 or broken into awful precipices ; and by their vario.us fliapcs and dif- 
 tanccs, and the clouds, which hover over them all the dav. add a 
 fublime grandeur to the beauty of tlic fccne below. 
 
 We landed at a chief's houfe oppofite the great valley, and before 
 dinner fct off witli the chief to fee a.morai, where it was faid the ark.
 
 ■206 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 of the Eatooa was depofitcd. and which had been conjcclurcd by 
 fome vifitors to bear a fimilitudc in form to the ark of the covenant. 
 Though it was about noon, in the road wc went we felt little of the 
 ■heat of the fun : lofty bread-fruit trees afforded their pleafant fliadc ; 
 and, as there was' but little underwood, we felt no annoyance, except 
 from a few flies. Turmeric and ginger abounded, alfo the wild cotton 
 tree. • The morai ftands on the north fide of the valley, about a mile 
 or more from the beach : it is erecfled on level ground, enclofed with 
 a fquare wooden fence, each fide of which may meafiire thirty or forty 
 yards. About one half of the platform next the interior fide of the 
 iqviare is paAcd, and on this pavement, nearly in the middle, there 
 ilands an altar upon fixtecn wooden pillars, each eight feet high ; it 
 is forty feet long and feven feet wide : on the top of the pillars the 
 platform for the offerings is laid, with thick matting Xipon it, which 
 overhanging each fide, forms a deep fringe all around it. Upon this 
 matting are offerings of whole hogs, turtle, large fiili, plantains, young 
 cocoa-nuts, &c. the whole in a ftate of putrefa(5Hon, which fends an 
 offenfive fmell all round the place. A large fpace on one fide of the 
 fence was broken down, and a heap of rough ftones laid in the gap : 
 upon thefe flones, and in a line with the fence, were placed what they 
 call TEES ; thefe were boards from fix to feven feet hich, cut into 
 various fhapei. At a corner near this flood a houfc and two flieds, 
 where men conflantly attended. We entered the houfe, and found 
 at one end the little houfe, or ark of the Eatooa ; it was made exa6lly 
 like thofe they fet on their canoes, but fmallcr, being aboiit four feet 
 long, and three in height and breadth. As it contained nothing but 
 a few pieces of cloth, 1 inquired where they had hid the Eatooa: they 
 anfvvcred, that it had been taken in the morning to a fmall morai near 
 the water-fide, but that they would immediately bring it, w^hlch they 
 did in about half an hour. Though I had not viewed tills place 
 without feeling for the poor creatures, yet when they laid theif Eatooa 
 ■on the ground I could hardly reftrain a laugh. It was iu fhapc exadly 
 like a failor's 1-uimmock lalhcd up, and compofcd of two parts, the
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 209 
 
 larger one juft the fizc of the houfe, and tlic Icllcr, which was 
 hiflicd upon it, was about half that fi/c : at the ends were fdft- 
 cned little bunches of red and yellow feathers, the ofl'eiings of the 
 wealthy. They feeing nic fmlle, laughed heartily thcmfelvcs, but 
 feemingly only to pleafc me ; for it was from no idea of the infiguifi- 
 cancc of their Eatooa. I told them it was not, could not be a god, 
 becaufe it was nothing but the cloth and fmnct which thcmfelvcs had 
 made, and could no more hear, fpcak, nor do them good or harm, 
 than could the clot'n they wore. At this they fcemed rather perplexed, 
 but ftill affirmed that it was a great Eatooa ; and when he was ang_ry 
 tlieir trees bore no bread-fruit, and many ills came upon them ; bu-t 
 not a word in reference to a future ftate. I wanted much to fee what 
 was in the infidc ; but they fuid none but Mannc Mannc and a few 
 more durll open it. However, they told Peter that it contained no- 
 thing but red feathers, a young plantain, and a bunch of young cocoa- 
 nuts before they break the leaf. Several bread-fruit and ctoa trees 
 fland within the fame fquare. 
 
 On our way back we called to fee the body of Orcpiah, as prc- 
 fcrved in a tupapow : he had not been many nionths dead, and was 
 now in a perfedlly dry ftate. The man to whom the performance of 
 t"his operation was entrufted lived clofe by, and came near when he 
 faw us. He feemed quite willing to oblige me ; and alked if I would 
 like to fee the body unfiirouded ; for, as it lay, nothing could be 
 feen but the feet. Anfwering in the affirmative, he drew it out 
 upon the uncovered ftagc, and took feveral wrappers of cloth off it ; 
 and, laughing all the while, placed the corpfe in a fitting poflure. 
 The body had been opened, but the fkin every where elfe was un- 
 broken, and, adhering clofe to the bones, it appeared like a fkeleton 
 covered with oil-cloth. It had little or no fmell, and would, notwith- 
 llanding the heat of the climate, remain fo preferved a confiderable 
 time. The method they take for this is, to clear the body of the 
 entrails, brain, &c. ; then wafhing it well, they rub it daily outfide 
 and in with cocoa-nut oil, till the fleffi is quite dried up ; after which 
 
 E E
 
 210 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 they leave it to the all-dcilroying hand of Time. This tupapow was 
 conftrudled by driving four long iiakes in the ground, about fix feet 
 afunder, lengthv^afe, and four in breadth : befides, thcfe, two others, 
 not fo long by three feet, are driven On a line, and fix feet from the 
 former four : a ftage is then made at the height of the fliortefl two, 
 and the corpfe being laid at one end, a thatched roof is raifed upon the 
 four highefl ftakes, to fhelter it from the rain ; the vacant part of the 
 itage is to pull it upon, either for rubbing with the oil, or exhibiting 
 it to the friends and relations of the deceafed. On the adjoining trees, 
 plantains and bread-fruit hung for the ufe of the dead. I afked them, 
 where they thought his fpirit, or thinking part, had gone ? At this 
 they fmiled, and faid, " Harre po," that is, " Gone to the night." 
 
 A little before dark we reached the fvulher end of Attahooroo, and 
 put up at a little place which Manne Manne had given to Peter, who 
 ordered what he pleafed, and had it immediately ; and here we left 
 the canoe, as it blew too frefli to row it againft the eafterly wind. In 
 the morning we role early : a couple of fowls were ready drefl'ed, on 
 which v/e brcaktafted, and fet off with a hope of reaching the fhip, 
 if nothing occurred to prevent it. 
 
 We entered Tettaha by afcending a hill called Opcyhowe. The 
 diflrid: almoft throughovit is hilly, affording but little low land; ne- 
 verthclefs it is well inhabited, which may be owing to its fituation, 
 lying between the two bcft dlftiids in the ifland; though I apprehend 
 even its own produce is fufficicnt for the people who live upon it. ft 
 has twelve matteynas and one hundred and thirty tees. Pomarre is 
 the chief. The beft grove of cocoa-nut trees hereabouts, and a great 
 number of bread-fruit, are faid to have been planted by him and Id- 
 deah when they were young. We palTed one fpot where Pomarre 
 had lately a houfe, which contained a vaft quantity of his flores, and 
 had been malicioufly fet on fire and burnt to the ground. At a place 
 called Wcyto-weyte, which terrninates the diflrld, there is a houfe 
 three hundred and ninety-feven feet in length, and forty-eight wide: 
 twenty wooden pillars, each twenty-one feet high, fupport the middle
 
 Jar.Y.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. an 
 
 of the roof; and one hundred and twenty-four, each ten feet high, 
 fupport the fides or eaves of the roof: the rafters upon which the roof 
 is laid arc about fix niches thick, and placed twenty inches apart : a 
 wooden wall, or fence, enclofes the whole. Here it is faid, they on 
 great occafions hold fcafts for days together, when they almoft deflroy 
 all the hogs on the ifland. The next dillriA is Oparre, which is well 
 flored with provifions and inhabitants, haAing fixteen matteynas and 
 one hundred and ninety-nine tees, including two valleys. It has iilfo 
 a moral, but is faid to be inferior to that in Attahooroo ; therefore, 
 as it rained, I did not go to fee it. Being forced to take flicker in a 
 lioufe, I faw there a man, one of whofc legs was fwellcd to a fizc 
 little lefs than a man's body ; the other leg was of its natural fize, and 
 the pcrfon cheerful, and buficd in making a mat. One of Otoo's 
 boat-houfcs was adjoining ; it contained a war canoe fixty feet long, 
 which is a little larger than that at Otycarec ; and thefe two, and one 
 from Ulietca of a different conftruftion, were the only large ones I 
 faw in the courfe of my journey, though I faw fevcral of a middling 
 fize, yet not fo many as 1 c-xpei^led. 
 
 The laft difficulty was to get over Taharray, or One Tree hill. 33 
 the rain had made the afcent very flippery. From thence we walked 
 along the beach to the miffionary houfe, and got our clofmg account 
 troni Pytcali. Matavai has tweuty-fcven matteynas and one hundred 
 and ten tees, which makes eiaht hundred and twcntv-two jnhabi- 
 tants. Therefore the population is as follows : 
 
 E E 3
 
 212 
 
 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE 
 
 ■[1797. 
 
 Diftiias. 
 
 1 Whyripoo 
 
 2 Whapiawno 
 
 3 Wharoomy 
 
 4 Hewow — 
 Hahbahboonea 
 Honoowhyah 
 Nalinu Nahnoo 
 
 Ot 
 
 •yayree 
 
 Wha-ah-heinah — — 
 
 Hedeah — — 
 
 1 1 Part of Terrawow on this fide 
 
 ifthmus uninhabited. 
 
 12 Wy-eree — 
 
 1 3 Wyooreede ■ 
 
 14 Attemonoo ' 
 13 Pappara — — 
 
 16 Ahaheinah — — 
 
 17 Attahooroo - 
 
 18 Tettaha 
 
 19 Oparre ' 
 
 20 Matavai ■ 
 
 the 
 
 Prefiditig Chiefs. 
 
 Inna Madua — — 
 
 Wytouah 
 Wyreede Aowh 
 Manne Manne — 
 
 Otoo 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Poinarre — — 
 
 Noe Noe — 
 
 Roorah and three more 
 Inna Madua 
 
 Maahe-hanoo (female) 
 Tayreede (wife of Temarre) 
 
 Ditto — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto — — 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Pomarre — — 
 
 Ditto — — — 
 
 Matt. 
 
 Miflionaries 
 
 4 
 28 
 1 
 2 
 1 
 
 4 
 42 
 
 13 
 o 
 
 17 
 8 
 25 
 12 
 16 
 27 
 
 Tees. 
 
 6 
 238 
 
 9 
 11 
 
 8 
 23 
 13 
 22 
 53 
 167 
 
 42 
 161 
 
 24 
 157 
 105 
 243 
 130 
 199 
 110 
 
 Numb. 
 ot Souls. 
 
 Total of men, women, and children, in Otaheite 
 Ditto in Tiaraboo — ^— — ■ 
 
 Total on the whole ifland 
 
 26 1 
 
 1596 
 
 60 
 
 78 
 
 64 
 
 186 
 
 126 
 
 144 
 
 342 
 
 1254 
 
 444 
 1044 
 
 156 
 1044 
 
 678 
 1608 
 
 852 
 1230 
 
 822 
 
 12,042 
 4,008 
 
 16,050
 
 JuLv.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 213 
 
 CHAPTER, XIV. 
 TranfaSlions at Qtahc'itc till their Departure. 
 
 THE intention of writing thefc pages being chiefly to prcfervc 
 the circumllances of a voyage which from its nature and object 
 is intereftlng to many, I fliall with this view notice what occurrences 
 pafled at the Ihip during my abfence, alfo in the fiibfequent days of 
 our ftay ; and then take leave of Otaheite, v/ithout faying more on 
 their cuftoms and manners than what Hes interfperfed in the journal 
 already detailed, as all former navigators have enlarged on this fubjecl; 
 and if errors can now be corrected, it will certainly be beft done from 
 the letters of the miffionaries, whofe refidcnce among the natives for 
 fiA'C months gave them greatly the advantage over us at the (hip. 
 
 July 12th. It being the Rev. Mr. Lewis's turn to attend the boat 
 employed in landing the goods, he exprefTed a fear that the divifion of 
 them, after the departure of the fliip, would occafion fome uneafuiefs. 
 In the courfc of the day Mr. Cover and Henry waited upon the cap- 
 tain, and fpoke to the fame effe<5t, giving it as their opinion, that, to 
 prevent any thing dilligrceable happening, the moft prudent way would 
 be for them to make a divifion immediately ; but this being only a 
 propofal, the adoption of which the captain left entirely to themfelves, 
 it was no more fpoken of Mrs. Hodges and Mrs. Henry alfo vifited 
 us to-day ; and in the evening they all went ou fliore in the pinnace. 
 Landed the goods, and received from our friends the natives a plenti- 
 ful fupply of fruit, &c. 
 
 13th. To-day the captain and fix of the miffionaries examined the 
 diftrlc^ of Matavai for the purpofe of finding the moft eligible fpot on 
 which to build a houfe : but as there were feveral equally eligible, 
 no preference was given as yet to any.
 
 214 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179/. 
 
 I4th. The weather ferene and plcafant. Information was brought 
 to the fliip, that the young king had come to Matavai ; but a report 
 Spreading that he had facrificed a man, the miffionaries exprcflcd their 
 marked difapprobation of the horrid ad;, which lb terrified him, that 
 he was fetting off for Pappara, when the captain landed, and Itoppcd 
 him as ho and his queen ran along the beach. On being aikcd why- 
 he was going away fo foon, he anfwcred, that, as the miffionaries 
 were angry, he llippofed the captain was fo too. The captain told 
 him that it would be very wrong to facrifice a man : he denied the 
 facl. The captain entreated him to commit no fuch cruelty, and be- 
 fought him to return, promifuig that he would fend him a canoe, 
 which he had brought purpofely from Tongataboo. This both recon- 
 ciled and pleafed him : he accordingly took up his refidencc in Alata- 
 vai. Had Jie gone off in fear, there was no knowing what the con- 
 fequences might be, as he had only to lay the rahooc on the diftrids, 
 to cut off all our fupplies : a circumftance which, though not expe- 
 rienced by us, has been fevercly felt by fomc of their vifitors. 
 
 15th. Pieafant weather. The captain and the four appointed 
 miffionaries employed in dividing the goods ; the fcanien hoilling out 
 of the hold, and putting the Otaheitean divifion into the brethren's 
 boat. In the forenoon Otoo and his wife came alongfidc ; the Friendly 
 Jfland canoe was given to him, and after he had fiirveyed it near two 
 hours, he got into it, and went on fliore fecmingly much pleafed. 
 About four in the afternoon, Sam (the little cabin-boy) ran from tlie 
 ihip, fuppofcd to ha\c gone out at the cabin-window. This boy being 
 of a dwarfilh fizc, was apprehenfne of falling into want in his own 
 country ; therefore he preferred fettling where nakedncfs was no hard- 
 fliip, and the vegetable diet at leaft of the ifland could always be pro- 
 cured at eafc. He left behind him a few incoherent lines mentioning 
 his defign, wherein he likewife fays, that if he can dt) the miffionaries 
 no good, he will do them no harm. About the fame time the captain 
 had his dreffing-box with all his Ihaving utenfds {lolcn out of the 
 .cabin, and at firfl fuppofcd the boy concerned in the theft, but it after-
 
 JiTLY.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 21$ 
 
 wards proved lie was innocent. Tlicrmometcr 7 1 ". Received from 
 Mawrda. and iiis wife Wyrcede Aov/h, two finail pigs, with fruit, &cc. 
 alfo prefcnts from feveral others. 
 
 lOth. The day fine and plcafant. Mr. JcfFerfon and Kyrc chap- 
 lains for the day on board ; the former in the forenoon, the latter in 
 the afternoon. 
 
 17th. Fine weather. Landed fome goods, and received by the 
 return of the flat-bottomed boat two loads of ftone ballall. Iddeah. 
 having come to Matavai, fcnt to the fliip to know whether the capcain 
 was angry with her. The mcflcngcr was told that he was not ; and 
 as a token thereof, a plantain leaf was fent her. She then came on 
 board, bringing with her two large hogs and tw^o bundles of cloth : 
 one of each was her owm prcfent, the other that of Pomarrc. When 
 feated in the cabin, llie was aflccd the reafon why flie killed her 
 child : in anfwcr to which flic faid, that the man with whom flie co- 
 habited was a low man : had the child been Pomarre's, flie would 
 have fpared it ; but fince it was the cuflrcm of the earecs to murder all 
 bafe-born children, flie had only adlcd agreeably thereto. The father 
 of the child was fitting by her, without feeming in the Icaft angry ; 
 however, herfelf feemed rather hurt at the home qucftions that v^ere 
 put to her, and the converfation was turned: She then informed the 
 captain of the reafons of Pomarre's abfencc, which being abfolutely ne- 
 celfary, he had fent her to lee that his friend the captain wanted for 
 nothing the ifland could afford ; though,, perhaps the truer reafon was, 
 that he might lofe nothing by his abfencc that could be got from the 
 fliip. WTien (he had received feveral' prefcnts, the evening drawing on, 
 flie fet off to fee her Ion Otoo, but was hardly gone when he made his 
 appearance in a large double canoe, whooping and hallooing to the 
 feamen by name, and after playing a number of Ibolifh tricks, fet olF 
 to the fliorc. Thermometer 71*^. 
 
 1 8th. The weather plcalant. No natives on board, or canoes about 
 the flilp : the reafon of which novelty we fuppofe to he fome Jiveriions 
 given by Iddeah. Landed ibme goods, and received Uxo boat-loads of
 
 216 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 llonc ballaft. Doctor Glllham was in the boat to-day, and informed 
 the captain of his defire to return with him. In the afternoon, one 
 of the natives brought back the boy Sam, and received for this fervicc 
 a new fliirt; Mrs. Hodges accompanied them, to plead for the fugi- 
 tive. The carpenter employed calking the flaip's top-fidcs, which the 
 powerful elFedl of the tropical climate had rendered leaky. Thermo- 
 meter 72°. 
 
 igth. The weather fqually, with rain. The young king (Otoo) 
 fcnt a prefent of two hogs and fome cloth. One of his fcrvants alfb 
 brought the captain's drcffing-box ; they had traced the thief to 
 Oparre, where they .found the box complete, but the offender Iiad 
 cfcaped to .the mountains. By the jiicllcnger an axe was fcnt to Otoo. 
 I-ddeah, and the bafe fellow fhe cohabits with, dined on board, and 
 before fhe left iis^ «ceived all the red feathers we had, and likewife a 
 red uniform coat for Pomarre ; with which valuable prefents Ihe was 
 highly delighted. Received two boat-loads of ftone. • In the evening 
 a chief brought twenty fowls, for which he received an axe. Whilll 
 .at dinner a native requefted the fliip's harpoon, to llrike a large cavally 
 he had obferved : this he performed with great dexterity ; but the 
 wounded fifli having difengaged the harpoon, the man dived after it, 
 and brought up the cavally in his arms, weighing forty-five pounds, 
 for which the captain rewarded him, and fent tlie fifh on fliore to the 
 miffior^aries. 
 
 20th. The weather fqually, with heavy rain. Few of the natives 
 on board, occafioned partly by the weather, and partly by a fhooting- 
 match with bow and arrow, which Otoo had at Oparre. Received 
 three boats of ballaft. Thermometer 72 1". To-day I returned from 
 making a tour of the ifland. 
 
 2lf^. Weather as yefterday : the winds during the latter part 
 fqually from the N. W. with heavy rain ; which fo fwclled the river 
 of Matavai, that we with difficulty got one boat-load of ballaft. 
 
 Early in the morning Mawroa and his wife, who arc our moft 
 conflant vifitors, came, and brought with them a pig, bread-fruit.
 
 JuLv.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 2.17 
 
 cocoa-nuts, &c. : with tlicm came alfo three women, who, they faid, 
 were relations ; they Ukcwife brought each of them a prcfcnt. One 
 of them was full feventy years old, and fo infirm, and exhauftcd with 
 the fatigue of getting on board, that flie laid herfclf down on the cabin 
 floor, apparently about to expire ; but recovering a little, flic (laid on 
 board all the da}-, and went fafe away in the evening. Iddeah was 
 among this day's vifitors, and, in Ihort, the cabin was quite crowded 
 with them ; w liich would often be uncomfortable were they not care- 
 lul to fupply us with a plentiful table. Thermometer 72°. 
 
 22d. Wind eailerly ; modeiate and fine weather. Loofed fails to 
 dry, &c. Alter breakfaft the millionaries came off, but without fhones, 
 not being able to get them for the fwell of the river. Sent on fhore a 
 quantity of rod, bolt, and bar iron. To-day the captain gave Peter, 
 the Swede, two fpades and fome other articles, as he propofed ercdling 
 a houfe near to the miffionaries. My tayo Wyrcedc fcnt me a large 
 hog, as file had frequently done before. 
 
 23d. Fine pleafant weather, and a light air of wind eaflerly. Five 
 or fix falling canoes went out of the bay towards Tcthuroa. Thefe 
 are the only canoes of the failing kind that we obfcr\ cd on the ifland, 
 though fometimes they will crcd; a temporary mall to run before the 
 wind. Service on board by brothers Henry and Broomhall. 
 
 24th. Three of the company made an cxcurfion tor two days with 
 Peter the Swede, through Matavai, Oparre, Tettaha, and Attahooroo, 
 at which laft diltrltfl they flept. Every where they were received with 
 profufe hofpltallty, and had nine pigs roafted to entertain them at dif- 
 ferent places. 
 
 Moderate and pleafant w cathcr, with a few fliowers of rain. Landed 
 fundries, and received fome ballafl. Our vifitors were Iddeah and my 
 tayo Wyrecdc, with tlieir hufl)ands; their prefcnts amounted to three 
 hogs and a large quantity of bread-t'rult. The young king came off- 
 in his Tongataboo canoe, and paddled fevcral times round the fliip. 
 The captain gave him an uniform coat of handfome fcarlct, and en- 
 treated him to put it on, w-hich he in a fiiUen fit, with favage obfti- 
 nacy, refufcd to do.
 
 218 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 During the night we had much rain, thunder, and lightning. 
 
 25th. The firffc part ot" this day moderate and fair weather. In the 
 afternoon the wind veered to the weflward, and blew frefli, with heavy 
 rain for about an hour ; then cleared up, and fell calm : and thus it 
 generally happens when wcllerly, from which quarter it feldom blows 
 hard or long. The wives of the millionaries dined and drank tea on 
 board. Thermometer 71!'^. 
 
 26th. Gentle breezes and plcaiant weather. The captain and mif- 
 fionaries employed in dividing the goods. Received one boat-load of 
 ballaft. The natives on board diverting themfelves by leaping off the 
 topfail-yard into the water. Thermometer 73"^. 
 
 27th. Variable winds and pleafant weather. Received one boat- 
 load of ftones. 
 
 In the dufk of the evening, one of our fcamen, William Tuckcr> 
 made his efcape from the fhip. We had been apprized of his inten- 
 tion to ftay on the ifland, knew that mod of his clothes were on fhore, 
 and had thoughts of fecuring him when we were about to depart, not 
 thinking he would go till near the lafi: day. When we found him 
 gone, the boat was inftantly manned, to purfue and iearch for him. 
 I and the third mate went on this fervice : we landed at Point Venus, 
 informed the miffionaries, and the old chief Pyteah, of what had hap- 
 pened, and employed them alfo in the fearch, which proved in vain ; 
 for after examining every hovife in the diflrid: we were obliged to re- 
 turn as we went. The two Swedes (Peter and Andrew) had been 
 abfent all the evening, which gave us reafon to fiappofe them concerned 
 in the affair ; for jufi: as wc returned to the miilionary houfe, they 
 came in quite wet, faying that they had been a-fifhing, an employ- 
 ment we knew they never went upon at nights ; befides, their very 
 looks condemned them. All that we CQuld further do in this bufmcfs 
 was, to go to the huts of Otoo and Iddeah, and defire them to fend 
 men in purfuit of Tucker, which they promifed to do. And to crown 
 the difagrecablenefs of this day, juffc before wc fct off with the boat, 
 the ram which wc brouc;ht from Enjfland came into the houfe, and 
 'lied ; fuppofcd to have received fome injury from the natives, as he
 
 Juj-Y.;] TO THE SOUTM-SEA.. ISLANDS, a 19 
 
 was a little mirducvous among them. However, there arc (lill good 
 hopes of a breed, as one of the ewes had a line ram, which was now 
 grown up. 
 
 28th. Plcafant weather. This morning, when Andrew the Swede 
 came on board, he was immediat<.:ly put in confinement ; it appearing 
 evident that he had enticed Tucker from the fliip, and was endeavour- 
 ing to form a party which might prove dangerous to the mifhonarics: 
 therefore the captain refolvcd on taking him off the ifland. 
 
 Peter came on board alio, aud turning king's evidence, informed us 
 that a native named Matemoo had concealed Tucker in a thicket of 
 Matavai. 
 
 Iddeah was on board at the time, to whom we applied for -help, 
 which flic promifmg, landed, and fcnt off a band of Otoo's men to 
 fearch the thicket, affifted by a number of the miffionarics, with my- 
 felf and the gunner ; but all in vain : he was not to be found this day. 
 We heard that he had taken the road to Opirrc, and intended for At- 
 tahooroo ; and in confequence of this information. Smith, Main, and 
 Clode armed themfclves, and fct off in purfult of him ; as the captain 
 intended at all events to have him, that mifchief to the brethren mischt 
 be prevented, and likewife defertions be thereby difcouraged. Ther- 
 mometer 72°. 
 
 2gth. Moderate breezes eafterly, and pleafant weather. The cap- 
 tain and the four brethren employed dividing the goods, &c. No 
 further account of Tucker. At noon the three miffionaries returned 
 from a fruitlefs purfuit, much fatigued. Many of our friends the na- 
 tives on board to-day. Thermometer 73°. 
 
 30th. Pleafant w^eather. Mr. Jefferfon and Lewis chaplains for* 
 the day. 
 
 About ten at night a native paddled off", calling out as he approached 
 the fhip, " All's well." His bufinefs, it feemcd, was to communicate 
 fomething concerning Tucker ; but he w as fo ffupified with ava, that 
 he could not articulate a word. The coming of another canoe ex- 
 plained the matter. Iigi tliis laft were three of the miffionaricb, Idiicah, 
 
 r F 2
 
 220 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 two of Otoo's fervants, and Tucker, bound, who curfed Otoo heartily 
 for his treachery. It appears that Otoo had been privy to the whole 
 affair, and had himfclf daily fed Tucker. But the captain having 
 dropt an expreffion, in Iddcah's hearing, that if the fugitive was 
 not found he would take Otoo on board ; it fo terrified him, that 
 he fent a man to inform Tucker that he wanted him, and contrived 
 to have fome of the niiffionaries in ambufli near the beach, who feized 
 him as he came along, and put him into the canoe, but not without 
 a great ftruggle, and many curfes. When we liad got him on board, 
 he was put in confinement, till, wc fhould leave the ifland. As for 
 Iddeah, flae was at this time trembling; and being afked the reafon of 
 it, fhe faid, it was for fear Andrew fhould be let loofe, for he was a 
 bloody-minded man, and would wreak his vengeance on her, and the 
 other natives to whom the captain had Ihewn favour ; and that he 
 thought very little of running his knife into them. 
 - ~3lft. Fine pleafant weather. Maune Manne, who was fo attentive 
 and friendly on our firfi; vifit, did not till this morning fend his rcfpeits 
 and a prefent to his tayo the captain, and that himfelf would be with 
 us in a day or two. Iddeah and feveral others came with the ufLial 
 prefents of hogs, fruit, &c. 
 
 Augufl ift. Light breezes and pleafant weather. Bought two he- 
 goats to carry to the Friendly Iflands ; and received feveral prefents 
 from the natives. In the evening Manne Mannc arrived at Matavai 
 in the veflel he had juft built at Eimeo, and brought her alongfide for 
 the captain to view her: confidering her as their firfi cfiay, flie is a 
 wonderful performance. This day at noon we fired a gun, and loofcd 
 the ibre-topfail, as a fignal for failing; and received Dr. Gillham and 
 all his baggage on board. 
 
 2d. The firll part fhowers of rain, the middle and latter part fair 
 and pleafant weather ; the wind weflerly all the afternoon. Iddeah 
 prcfented the captain with a complete mourning drcfs ; and all the 
 other natives brought fomething with them. 
 
 To-day the divificn of the goods was finiflaed, having been a long 
 employment.
 
 AvGusT.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 221 
 
 3d. Plcafant weather, the wind variable. Sent on fhorc an addi- 
 tion of Imall arms, ammunition, &c. which makes their flock as 
 follows : two fwlvels, eight mufkcts, one blunderbufs, nmc piftols, 
 and nine fwords ; fifty-fix gun-flints, bcfides thofc iu ufe ; po\Tder, 
 ball, drum and fife. 
 
 The natives were now crowding the fhip more than ever, and many 
 of them were very importunate to go to Pretanc. Mawroa and his 
 wife my tayo Wyreede, Manne Manne, Iddeah, and the tayos of the 
 crew, laid us in a large fea-ftock of hogs, fowls, and fruit ; and in 
 return for their kindnefs received fuch things as were to them ufeful 
 and gratifying. Manne Manne was very urgent for fails, rope, an- 
 chor, &:c. for his velTel, none of which articles we had to fpare : on 
 which account, though the captain gave him his own cocked hat and 
 a variety of articles, he was ftill difcontented; faying, " Several people 
 " told me that you wanted Manne Manne, and now I am come, you 
 " give me nothing." An obfervation fmiilar to this he once made 
 to the miflTionaries : " You give me," fays he, " much parow (talk) 
 " and much prayers to the Eatooa, but very few axes, knives, fcif- 
 " fars, or cloth." The cafe is, that whatever he receives he imme- 
 diately diftributcs among his friends and dependants; fo that of all the 
 numerous prefents he had received, he had nothing now to fliew, ex- 
 cept a glazed hat, a pair of breeches, and an old black coa-t, which 
 he had fringed with red feathers. And this prodigal behaviour he 
 cxcufcs, by faying that, were he not to do fo, he flioiild never be a 
 , king, nor even remain a chief of any confequence. 
 
 Unmoored the fhip, and got all things clear and in readinefs for 
 failing on the following day. Mrs. Henry, Hodges, and Haflell, with 
 feveral of the miffionaries, came off to take leave of the captain, offi- 
 cers, and crew. Mr. Clode, unfettled in his mind, wlfhcd to go to 
 the Friendly Iflands : and, as the brethren left him at liberty to go or 
 flay, determining to go, fome unwrought iron and other articles were 
 taken on board again for his ufe ; but in the evening he changed his 
 mind again, and rcfolvtd to flay.
 
 222 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 ■4th. Light airs of wind. At eight A. M. we weighed anchor, 
 and flood out of Mata^■ai bay ; the wind variable and baffling. Great 
 numbers of natives crowded on board, to take leave of their refpedtivc 
 I'riends, and fee what they would further beftow ; for they pcffefs gc- 
 ncrofity and felfiflinefs in an alniofl: equal degree. Some at parting 
 \'\ith their tayos at one end of the Ihip v.'cpt bitterly, but by only 
 walking the length of the deck they became as cheerful as ever; and 
 when taxed with diffimulation, they laughingly obferved, that it was 
 the parow or cuftom of Otaheite to weep and cut themfclves on fuch 
 occafions, but the latter they omitted becaufe we had told them it was 
 bad. But as all their paffions or fits arc extremely flaort-lived, efpe- 
 cially that of grief, their prefent behaviour was only confiftent with 
 their general chara(fler and difpofition. 
 
 After hoifting the pinnace in we ftood off and on, waiting the 
 packets of letters, which were brought off at noon by Cover, Henry, 
 and federal others who had not taken leave. After iuch converfation 
 as the occafion fuggefted, wc took an affed:ionate farewell, and parted, 
 perhaps never to behold each other again in this life. 
 
 It was the purpofe of the miffionaries, as foon as the fliip failed, to 
 change their abode to a more eligible fpot, and to furround their pre- 
 mifes with a llrong wall, fufficient to protc6l them from any danger, 
 though, while they are united, none is to be apprehended, as they 
 have fufficient force to defend themfelvcs againft the whole ifland. 
 As foon as this is done, they purpofe building a veffel of one hundred 
 or one hundred and fifty tons, capable of vifiting all the iflands 
 around them ; for which they have materials of every kind, plenty 
 of timber, and able workmen. 
 
 We hope they will have widely diffufed the glad tidings of falva- 
 tion, with which they iire fent, by the time we may again vifit them.
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 223 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 Rc'iuni to Tojtgataioo. — Occurrences during our Ahfeiice. 
 
 HAVING pafled at a conflderal>Ie diftance Ibuthward of the So- 
 ciety Ifles on our former voyage, \vc now fhaped a dircft courfc 
 for them ; and by noon on the 5th of Auguft were but a Httlc way ofF 
 Huaheine, its extremities bearing from N. E. by N. to N. W. As 
 we rounded the fouth end a few canoes came off, in one of which 
 was a chief, with the ufual peace-offering, viz. a young pig and a 
 green branch. They came on board without hcfitation, and talked 
 with nearly the fame freedom as the Otaheiteans. A few hatchets, 
 knives, and looking-glaffes were diflributed among them ; after whiciv, 
 feeing that we difregarded their entreaties to anchor, they went into 
 their canoe and paddled away. 
 
 When to leeward of the ifland, more canoes came alonscfide : in one 
 of them was Connor, the Irifhman, one of the Matilda's crew. To 
 our aftonifhment, he had forgotten his native tongue, being able to 
 rccollcdl only a few words : and if he began a fentcnce in Englifh, he 
 was obliged to finifh it in the language of the iflands. Both he and 
 the natives begged hard for us to enter Owharre harbour ; but finding 
 that we were determined to make no ftay, he afked the captain if he 
 would take him home ; which was readily agreed to, as we had reafon, 
 from the conduft of his fhipmates at Otahcite, to fuppofe that fuch 
 as he would prove a hindrance to the miffion. Pie then begged the 
 captain to give hirrl time to take leave of his wife and child ; which 
 was alfo promifed him : for that purpofe, we hauled our wind to- 
 wards the entrance of Owharre harbour ; and when off there. Dr. 
 Gillham and I went on Ihore with him in the canoe, and, landing, 
 walked towards his houfc through a crowd of natives, which he cau-
 
 224 FIRST .MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 tioned us to beware of, leil, for the fake of our clothes, they fliould 
 fall upon us and do us mifchief : he alfo requefted we might not go 
 far from him. When he made known his intention, fome of the 
 women wept, and his wife was inuch call down, though he treated 
 her with much inditFcrence ; indeed, he had faid that he did not care 
 \hat became of her. But when he took the child in his arms, a moft 
 scautiful infant about eight or nine months old, the tears gliftened in 
 his eyes, and, expreffing his forrow, he feemed divided in his mind, 
 whether to ftay in a fituation where, by reafon of their wars, he faid, 
 his life was continually in jeopardy, or extricate himfelf, and leave his 
 beloved daughter to the mercy of the favages. However, as he ftill 
 intended the latter, he embarked in the canoe, and his wife and child 
 accompanied us. In the way, we alked her if fhe would part with 
 her child ; her reply was, " No, not for any thing." As feveral na- 
 tives and chiefs had collefted on board, it was fome time before Con- 
 nor's bufmcfs could be fettled ; which alfo gave him time to confider 
 more deliberately what to do. And, as he never let the child out of 
 his arms, his affeftlon preponderated, and he told the captain that he 
 found it impoffible for him to leave it ; which wc were all glad to 
 hear for the infant's fake. A few ufeful articles were then prefented 
 to him, and wc immediately wore fhip and made fail, whilll they re- 
 turned to the Ihore. 
 
 He fays, that the wars here are far more deftruftivc than at Ota- 
 heite, w here they will not ftand to fight ; here they are more coura- 
 geous, and both by pradlice and neceffity arc become far more fkilful. 
 He relates, that about two or three months before our vifit, the people 
 of Huahcine, (whom he is obliged to affiffc, or ftar\c) went againll the 
 ifland of Ulietca ; and in the firft battle, after many falling on both 
 fides, the latter was defeated, and forced to fly for fafcty to Borabora, 
 leaving the Huaheinc men mafters of the ifland ; but in a fliort time 
 fome of the viftorious band longing after their wives, returned to Hua- 
 heinc ; of which their enemies no fooner heard, than they came upon 
 thern with a fuperiority of numbers, killed about fifty of their befl: war-
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 22r> 
 
 Hors, and It was with p;rcat difficulty that Connor and a fcW more got 
 to their canoes, in which, by hard paddUng, they cfcapcd from the 
 purfuit of their enemies. Connor (hewed the mark of a wound on the 
 back, which had been deep, b\it was now healed ; by which I fuppofcd 
 it more than three months fmcc this affair happened. He favs, and I 
 believe truly, that there is no end to their wars ; and that to have 
 been once beaten was confidcred a$ a fufficient caufc for entering on 
 frcfti wars : for, notwithftanding their late misfortunes, they were pre- 
 paring for another attack. 
 
 Connor had not been more than five years among the iflands, in 
 which time he proves, that a man may, in all points, become a heathen, 
 and even forget his own language ; though he had fpcnt part of that 
 time with his fhipmatcs. He had alfo forgotten what time had clapfed 
 fmcc the wreck of the fhip, but fuppofed it to be eight years, which 
 was three years too much. Perhaps fomcthing might be faid in cxcufc 
 for him ; he never could read ; but had he poflelfcd only a fmall lliarc 
 of literature, it is likely abftraft or fpeculative ideas would fometimes 
 have arifen in his mind, to cxprcfs which, words of his native lan- 
 guage conne6lcd with fuch ideas would naturally and of neceflity 
 recur, that of the iflands being too penurious. Add to this, that the 
 remotenefs of his fituation from home might caufe him to give up 
 all thoughts of ever returning to his native country, and to think no 
 more of cultivating or retaining thofe qualities he had occafion for 
 there. 
 
 ( From Huaheine we fleered to go to the northward of Otaha ; but 
 as it was nearly calm we made little way ; and next day at noon were 
 no farther than between Otaha and Borabora, when Ave obfcrved in 
 16° 28' S. A few canoes came off from both iflands ; but as if*was 
 Sunday, agreeably to the rule wc had invariably followed, avc had no 
 intercourfe with them ; except giving a few knives and hatchets, for 
 which we took nothing in return. Neverthelefs, as we lay becalmed, 
 they hung about the fliip moft of the day ; and when leaving us, pro- 
 Hiifcd to return on the morrow. 
 
 G O
 
 22(5 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 7th. In the evening the wind came from the weflward, and 
 llretching on the larboard tack, we faw the fmall ifland of Toubai ; 
 which at midnight bore W. N, W. and Mouroa W. by S. ; and in 
 the courfe of the forenoon we paffed between the two, and north of 
 the latter, the wind at the time from S. W. by S. fqually, with thick 
 weather and conftant rain ; which continuing, we hauled the forefail 
 up, and run under an eafy fail for the night ; and next morning at 
 daylight faw Howe's ifland off the deck, bearing S. by W. 
 
 8th. Obfer^-ed at noon in latitude lO^ 45'' S.; at the fame time faw 
 the land bearing north, and fuppofed it to be the Scilly iflands, dif- 
 covered by Wallis. We now fliapcd a courfe for Palmerflon's iflands, 
 where we had fomc bufmefs to do ; and on the morning of the 1 2th 
 came in fight of them. Hoifting the pinnace out, we landed at the 
 fame iflet which we had formerly been upon, but by a better paflage 
 than before. This lies a little more to the northward. On this day 
 we finifhed what we intended ; got about fix hundred cocoa-nuts for 
 the fhip's ufe, and planted (which was our main bufmefs) thirty-four 
 bread-fruit trees, eighteen plantain and feveral evee apple-trees, of 
 which there were none before on the ifland : and if they flovirifh, as 
 there is fcarcc a doubt but they will, the benefit of them may be found 
 by fome poor cafl-away iflanders, or needy navigator. At this time 
 the tropic-birds were fitting on their eggs, and fo very tame, that, had 
 w^e pleafed, we might have caught many hundreds of them. 
 
 1.5th. Hazy weather prevented our feeing Savage ifland. On the 
 17th we came in fight of E5oa, and next day moored fhip in the 
 harbour of Tongataboo in nine fathoms and a half, on a bottom of 
 fine black fand, Makkahah ifland bearing N. N. E. i E. and Attataa 
 N.W. IW. 
 
 Before we had anchored, George Veefon, one of the mifTionaries, 
 came off, and informed us that the brethren were all well, Ifaac Nobs 
 excepted; and that, for rcafons judged moft' prudent, they had fcpa- 
 rated into fmall parties, and were now with different chiefs. Bowell 
 and Harper v/crc together with a chief named Vaarjce, who refides at
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 227 
 
 a place called Ardeo, Veefon with Mullccmar, a chief of the diftrid: 
 of Ahoge, thirty miles from Ahcefo^ and Cooper with Moorcc at 
 Ahogc- the reft are ftill at Ahecfo., But before I notice our proceed- 
 ings in the fliip, it may be necelTary to infert a few extra<^s from the 
 journal of the miffionaries, written fincc our departure. 
 
 April i:ith. Wc were vifited by Toogahowe, and many others: 
 ■we informed them of our want of more land and timber, which he 
 inftautly faid we fliould have ; he would fend a perfon to fhew it us, 
 and when ready it fhould be brought home for us. We were dif- 
 appointed in not being able to vifit the fliip once more, and fend 
 letters to our brethren at Otaheite. 
 
 Sunday 1 0th. About feven o'clock we had a prayer meeting, when 
 brother Kelfo and Shelly engaged. As we had fitted up one of our 
 cuckoo clocks, the flriking of it excited great furprlfe and attention 
 among the natives, who confidered it as a fpirlt, on which account 
 they would not touch it, and fuppofed, if they ftole any thing, the 
 bird fpirit would detect them, which was not without its ufe. In the 
 forenoon brother Buchanan preached from Jer. xxxii. 2/. Several of 
 the natives were prefent, and behaved very quietly : in the afternoon 
 brother Kelfo, from 2 Thcff. iii. 1. John Connelly (the Irifnman) 
 paid us a vifit, accompanied by a brother of Fcenou Towago, a chief 
 who lay fick at Noogollifva ; who having heard that Ambler had a 
 day or two ago emptied a cocoa-nut into a Japan pint pot, in order to 
 drink the milk, fent his brother about fixteen miles to beg fuch a one 
 of us ; for without it, he was afraid he fhould not get well again. 
 This requeft we inftantly complied with, and made a promife to vifit 
 him as foon as poffible. Futtafaihe fent a meflagc by Connelly, en- 
 treating us to vifit hirn at Mooa; but this we could not comply A\ith 
 till v>c knew more of the language. Several of us went out to look 
 for the fhip, but faw nothing of her. Our patron, Toogahowe, made 
 ns a prefent to-day of three pieces of land ; two uncultivated of about 
 
 G G 2
 
 228 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 an acre each, and one about the fame fize well flocked -with yams 
 and banana-trees : thefe, with the enclofure where our houfe (lands, 
 make about five acres. In the evening he fent us three baked hogs, 
 a large quantity of yams, and a bundle of cloth, 
 
 17th. Two of the brethren went to look for the Ihip, but without 
 fuccefs. We fent Toogahowe a prefent of earthen- ware, two gimlets, 
 and a few nails. Soon after he fent a mefienger, requefling us to go 
 and fmg to him before he fet off for NoogoUifva ; but as he was at 
 this time furrounded by fome hundreds who v/cre drinking their 
 morning kava, we declined going, and returned anfwer, that fmging 
 was a part of our worfliip, and we did not make a practice of doing 
 it at other times ; which anfwer fatisfied him. He made inquiries 
 concerning our clock ; but faid, he would not have fuch a fpirit in 
 his houfe. Brother Harper made him a prefent of three fhawls ; and 
 foon after he fent us a hog and fome yams. Some of our number were 
 employed in flubbing up old bread-fruit trees, and otherwife preparing 
 our home enclofure for garden-feeds : the fecretary, Bowell, writing 
 a vocabulary of the language. In the afternoon the mothcr-in-Iaw 
 cf Ambler, with her two daughters, came to fee us ; her hufband is 
 commander in chief of the fleet of T5ogahowe, and the mofl fkilful 
 failor on the ifland. She informed us, that if we fent to her when in 
 want of provifions, flie would readily fupply us. Glory to God, we 
 are not likely to know any want ; he gives us enough and to fpare. 
 
 1 8th. After family worfliip we rcfumed our different employments. 
 Several forts of feeds were fown, and more land prepared. A chief, 
 named Cofawer, brought us a hog and fome yams, and kindly in- 
 formed us, that whenever any of us went near his refidencc, we 
 fhould be welcome to what his plantation afforded. To-day Amblei; 
 left us to pay a vifit to Moomooc, being firfl equipped by us with a 
 fuit of clothes. Cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. brought us by fcveral 
 people during the day. 
 
 19th. B. Ambler returned again this morning, and informed us,, 
 that the old king Moomooe expreffed fome lurprife that none pf us 
 
 I
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 229 
 
 had vifited him fince our landing, nor fcnt hun a prcfcnt. A fcrvant 
 from Feenou Towage accomp>anicd Ambler ; his niaftcr had fcnt him 
 to beg a fork, a pJatc, an oil lamp, and fomc red water (port wine). 
 Some of them, it appears, had fprcad abroad, that the Pappa Langa 
 Tongatas (which is the name "we go by) had in their pofleflion fomc 
 fmall things that gave better light than the nuts fluck. on the fplintcrs 
 of the cocoa-nut, which they ufcd ; and this had induced Towago to 
 fend for one. 
 
 In the time of relaxation from the bufinefs of the garden we met, 
 and confidered the propriety of fome of our body going to vifit Moo- 
 mooe and Futtafaihe ; when it was refolvcd that brothers Kelfo and 
 Buchanan fhould on Monday next accompany Ambler, and carry to 
 each a prefcnt. 
 
 20th. Early this morning John Connelly took his leave to return 
 to Futtafaihe, w ith whom he rcfides ; with him went the fervant of 
 Towago with the fpecified prefents for his mafler. Our friend 
 Mytylc came, and requefted one of us to fliave him ; which done, he 
 ikt off for Eooa, of which ifland he is the fupreme chief. 
 
 Qur clock excites wondrous attention. Every tool we make ufe of 
 attra(!ils the notice of the fpecflators, with which we are commonly 
 furrounded. Many of them will mutter out bitter regret and reflec- 
 tions on their own country, becaufe fo ignorant of the ingenious arts 
 with which we are acquainted, A poor obje(5l, with ulcers round her 
 wriils of long flanding, applied to us ; and in about two months we 
 happily were able to cure her^ 
 
 Dcfiring to prepare a forge, we endeavoured to form moulds for 
 brick : and to procure lime, we attempted to burn fhclls, which 
 abound ; but found no convenient mode : we were able, however, to 
 obtain fome from the natives, who ufe it to change the colour of their 
 hair, and dive for the ftone in deep water, which they afterwards burn. 
 We fliall no doubt, in time, be furniflied w ith thefc things fufficicnt 
 to fupply our wants. 
 
 2 1.13:. We were vifited to-day by feveral, who brought fmall prc-^
 
 230 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 fcnts of fruit, &c. Leboolo, a petty chief, came in the afternooiii 
 This man is accounted the firft fpearman in the country, on which 
 account Toogahowe has made him his chief warrior. 
 
 22d. In the courfe of this week we have dug and planted about a 
 fixth part of our home plantation ; feveral old trees have been taken 
 up, and an enclofure made for our hogs. Every employment we 
 engage in excites the attention of the natives, who are frequently fo 
 troublcfome, that we are neceffitatcd to drive them away. Found the 
 mufquitoes very unplcafant ; fome confined with fore feet, attended 
 with great itching. 
 
 'Sunday 23d. As ufual we had a prayer meeting this morning. 
 About eight o'clock John Connelly paid us a vifit, bringing a fine hog 
 and fome yams from Futtafaihe, who had alfb commiffioned him to 
 make us an offer of any illet we Ihould choofe among thofe which lie 
 fcattered about Tongataboo, as feveral of them are his. Fifla are in 
 great plenty at thefe iflets, and during the hungry feafon will be pecu- 
 liarly ufeful to us. At half paft ten brother Buchanan difcourfed from 
 John i. : before he concluded, an old chief, named x\ttar, came with 
 fome kava and a bunch of bananas ; he and his attendants fat quietly 
 till the fervice was over ; after which, beiag told the day was facrcd, 
 he apologized for difturbing us, and took leave. In the afternoon bro- 
 ther Kelfo preached from Luke xxii. An inftance of a religious nature 
 occurred to-day — the admiral of the fleet fet fail for Feejee in a large 
 double canoe to fetch a fpirit (an idol), as they term it, to cure old 
 Moomooe, who lies at the point of death ; and long before the canoe 
 returns, which cannot be in lefs than two months, he mufi; be de- 
 parted, and paft the fpirit's charm. Oh may the time be hailened 
 •when they fliall turn from thefe vanities to fcrve the living God ! 
 
 2-4th. Early this morning brothers Kelfo and Buchanan went with 
 John Connelly to pay a vifit to Futtafaihe and Moomdoe at Noogol- 
 lifva. The weather proving very warm, little work was done without 
 doors. A fifler of Feenou Towago, named Onoadaicr, came to fee 
 us, and in the afternoon fhc fent us fome hoti. Hoti is a difli very
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 231 
 
 much in rcqucfl among the chiefs, and is made in the following man- 
 ner: they firft pour cocoa-nut milk into a wooden bowl, then fcrape 
 out the kernel with a flicll ; gee root is bruifcd into the milk, and re- 
 mains till the latter has imbibed a delicious fwcetncfs from it ; the 
 root is then taken out of the milk, and the kernel mixed up with it, 
 which we found a very rich mefs. Harper vifitcd Moomooc's fiatooka, 
 about half a mile from the miffionary houfe at Bunghye, a beautiful 
 folitary place furrounded by toa and other trees, on which hung vaffc 
 multitudes of bats as big as crows, called by the natives beaker. Here 
 he faw two houfes ; in one there was a quantity of fpears and warlike 
 implements, facrcd to the Odooa, or fpirit ; in the other an image of 
 a goddefs, called Fyega ; to whom they pray for a favourable feafon 
 for makina; cloth. 
 
 25th. Onoadaicr paid us another vifit this morning, and made us 
 a mefs of hoti ; which being done in our own houfe, gave us an op- 
 portunity of noticing the great cleanlinefs which they obferve in their 
 cookery. In the afternoon we were vifited by a young chief from Lee- 
 fooka, called by Captain Cook, Leefooga ; it is one of the Hapae, or 
 Harby illands. His name is Foonogge, and he is one of the iineft 
 made men we have yet feen. As Ambler has been frequently with 
 him, he has learnt feveral Englifli words, which the young man fpeaks 
 very plain. He indeed difcovcred a furprifing facility to learn any 
 word or letter which we fpoke, or pointed out to him. 
 
 20th. During the night we had copious fhowers of rain, and ths 
 wind blew frefb. About eight o'clock a chief brought us a pig and 
 twenty fine yams : in return for which wc gave him a few articles of 
 earthen-ware. A fhort time after we received a Similar prcfent. About 
 ten o'clock Isrothers Buchanan and Kclfo returned from Noogolhtva, 
 bringing with them fugar-cane, drefled fifh, pork, and yams. 
 ■ The following is a brief narration of their excurfion : " At half pall 
 fix we took our departure from Goloobaloo, and after wading about 
 three quarters of a mile upon the beach got into a canoe, in which 
 were three of Futtg,faihe's ferrants to convey us to NoogolUfva : wind
 
 im FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1707. 
 
 and tide being againft us, we landed ivbout live miles from our journey's 
 end, and walking about an hour wc came to the refidcncc of Fecnou 
 Toogahowe, who, furrounded by a circle of attendants, was taking 
 his morning's kava. When we had gone through the ufual falutations, 
 and made him a prefent, wx proceeded to fee his father, and found 
 him removed to a new habitation, -svhich was not quite finifhed ; but 
 twelve or fourteen men being at work upon it, they completed it foon 
 after our arrival. Poor Moomooe feemed dangcroufly ill, and was 
 furrounded by feveral of his wives, the oldeft of whom is devoted to 
 be ftrangled at his death. He feemed very well pleafed with the pre- 
 fent we made him ; a piece of foap was a part of it, which when he 
 faw, he exprefled a wilh to be fhaved, and was much gratified when 
 it was done. Soon after this we were furniflaed with a mcfs of fifh, 
 yams, &c. 
 
 About ten o'clock we went to Futtafaihe, whom we found giving 
 orders to get a large double canoe into a boat-houfe,. fituated about 
 twenty yards from high-water mark. He received us with great affa- 
 bility and good-nature, bidding us welcome, and apologized for the 
 meannefs of the habitation, alfo for the fmallnefs of the prcfents he 
 had fent us ; the reafon of which, he faid, was our living at fo great 
 a diflance from him. He received the prefent we made him with 
 much good-humour, and without the avidity fo remarkable in many 
 others. When we had partaken of the refrefhmcnts he had provided, 
 he took us to the beach, and Ihewcd us feveral iflands, any of which, 
 he faid, were at our fervice ; but he advifed againft going to examine 
 them this afternoon, on account of the roughnefs of the weather. 
 Therefore, having a little time on our hands, we vifited feveral other 
 chiefs : and being at laft fent for by Toogahowe. we immediately 
 waited upon him in company with Connelly, and found upon our 
 arrival, that Moomooe had fent us a large baked hog and fome yams. 
 The hog was inflantly cut up with a fplinter of bamboo, and, together 
 with the yams, divided among the chiefs who were prefent ; and when 
 wc had fpent a proper time here wc returned a^ain to Futtafaihe,
 
 ArRiL.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 233 
 
 who had got a fowl ready drcfTed for us: and thus it was wherever i 
 wc went, plentiful provifion was made. When we had flipped we 
 retired to reft, but were rather difturbed by fome old women, who 
 were employed the whole night in beating the legs of Futtafailie.' 
 Next morning we rofe before daylight, intending to vifit the iflands 
 and make choice of one of them, but were detained for fome time 
 by a mifunderflanding of Futtafaihe's orders. However, as the chief 
 had been fent for to pay his laft vifit to Moomooc, fuppofed to be 
 dying, by Connelly's exertions we embarked in two canoes, with three 
 natives in each to paddle us. After fome time we landed at a place 
 called HoUifva, where we were lliewn a well, which they informed us 
 was 'dug by Captain Cook : it is the largefl and deeped we have feen 
 in the country, but the water is bad, and the land contiguous to it 
 much encumbered with underwood. Thence croffing a creek, we 
 came to an ifland called Noogonoogo : here we breakfafted upon filh 
 and baked plantains at the firft houfe we came to ; after which, we 
 made a tour round the ifland, and found it, like that at HoUifva, 
 abounding with underwood ; but it had a few plantations in good 
 order, which feemed to have coft the natives much labour, on which 
 account we refufed to accept of it. 
 
 We therefore embarked again, and croiTed to" another, called Mak- 
 kahah : this we found well ftored with cocoa-nuts, plantains, bread- 
 fruit, and fugar-canc, alfo good frefli water. Upon the beach wc 
 found a curious coral rock, much refcmbling the ftump of an old tree, 
 about five feet high and four thick ; it was full of holes, in which 
 were a great number of water-fnakes. The natives forbad us to hurt 
 them, and would fcarce fuffer them to be touched, faying they were 
 agces ; which led us to fuppofe they were facred animals. Thefe fnakes 
 were about thirty inches long : the body, from head to tail is in circles 
 of black and white alternately, each about half an inch broad ; along 
 the top of the back is a beautiful ultramarine blue. Though not ve- 
 nomous, the natives reprefcnt them as dangerous, and fay they will 
 kill a man by twifling round his neck and biting a hole in his throat. 
 We next examined another fmall ifland, called FatiTia, where was 
 
 H H
 
 234 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179?. 
 
 plenty of bread-fruit, but little of any thing elfe ; therefore, on our 
 return, we made choice of Makkahah, and the few natives, about thirty 
 in number, became our tenants ; from whom wc could afterwards 
 draw whatever we wanted of the produce, or demand their fifh, if we 
 chofe it; or improve the ifland, by making what alterations in it we 
 pleafed. We found Futtafaihe ftill with Moomooe ; he expreffed his 
 approbation of ovir choice in a very obliging manner, and informed us 
 farther, that he had fet three men to fit cordage to a fmgle failing ca- 
 noe, which he intended for our ufe. Moomdoe was now incapable of 
 turning himfelf, and appeared to be haftening faft to diflblution ; ne- 
 verthelefs he defircd us to fend him a cuckoo clock, and a few of 
 our number to fmg pfalms for him. We were greatly fliocked with 
 the behaviour of Tdogahowe, who two days ago had caufed a young 
 man (his own younger brother) to be fJ-ranglcd, that his father might 
 recover. The viftim he had buried within a few yards of the houfe 
 where we were, and he now came to mourn over him, which he did. 
 by fitting upon the grave with his elbows upon his knees, and covering 
 his face with his hands remained a long time in filence, and then de- 
 parted very thoughtful. After fuppcr Futtataihe went to frt up with 
 Moomooe, and vve retired to reft ; and early next morning embarking 
 in a canoe, ■got home about nine o'clock." 
 
 27 th. It had rained hard during the night, which prevented us 
 from working in the day. A prefent of a turtle and fbme yams came 
 from NoogoUifva in Moomooe's name -j this is efteemed a valuable 
 prefent in this countrv. Several of our garden-feeds have now made 
 their appearance, and look exceedingly well ; but the rats and mice are 
 very defT:ru6live : our crops of peas have fallen a prey to their ravages, 
 and we arc afraid the beans will fhai-e the fame fate, except we find 
 fome means to dcflroy or drive away thefe vermin. A blind chief 
 ^ifited us to-day. 
 
 28th. Weather flill wet. Great numbers of people are daily coming 
 into our neighbourhood, bringing cloth, hogs, yams, &c. to be dif- 
 pofed of at the funeral of Moomooe, whofe death is hourly expcdcd.
 
 April.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS, 235 
 
 Temporary huts arc con{lrudlin<?; in every convenient place near to 
 Bunghyc, which was the ufual rcfidcncc of the kinc; (Moomooc), and 
 where his tiatooka is, which ftunds about half a mile from our houfe. 
 A young woman arrived at our houfc this morning, and gave an af- 
 fed:ing account of the fate of one of Moomooe's fons. The youth, it 
 feems, lived at fome diilancc from Noogollifva, where the father lies 
 fick, and by order of whom he was fent for, under pretence of having 
 his little fingers cut off, a cuftora common here, and done with a view 
 to appeafc the anger of the Odooa, that the fick perfon may recover, 
 but, in fart, that he might be Itrangled. Upon the arrival of Golelallo 
 he was falutcd in a cordial manner by his elder brother Toogahowc, 
 and foon after went to fee his father, whofe attendants feizcd upon 
 him with a view to ftranglc him inltantly, when he, g\icfling their 
 intention, faid, if they would ufc gentler means he would fubmit to 
 his father's will ; but they continuing their violence, he by a great 
 exertion beat them ofF. Three fcejec men were then called, and 
 thefe being joined by a filler of the unfortunate Golelallo, they accom- 
 plilhed his death. Alas, how dreadful the darknefs that envelopes 
 the minds of thofc poor heathens ! The prince of darknefs has im- 
 preficd the idea on them, that the ftrength of the perfon ftrangled will 
 be transferred into the fick, and recover him. Oh, when fliall the 
 happy period come w^hen they fhall fay. What have we to do any more 
 with idols ? 
 
 2Qth. Foonogge paid us a vifit this morning, and after him came 
 our friend Mytyle, who informed us that Moomooe had departed 
 this life about four o'clock this morning. The people who pafi"ed 
 from Noogollifva, with their faces bruifed, and blood nuining down 
 their cheeks, w^ere numerovis : inftead of cloth they wore matting 
 round them, and a twig of the chefnut-trce about their necks ; this, 
 it feems, is their mourninai; drefs. About one o'clock Too2:ahowe 
 arrived; and foon after Ambler, accompanied by brother Bowell, went 
 to fee him. He was fitting in a fmall neat houfe, gi^'ing orders to 
 feveral chiefs who fit around him, concerning the procuring the vaft 
 
 H n 2
 
 235 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797, 
 
 fupplies of hogs, &c. that will be confumed at the funeral. About 
 three o'clock the body of the deceafed king was carried paft our houfe, 
 at a fmall diftance from the beach ; it was laid on a kind of bier made 
 o£ the boughs of trees, and fupported by about twenty men : feveral 
 relatives of the deceafed preceded the corpfc in their mourning dreffes, 
 as above ; fome of them had cut their heads with Ihark's teeth, and 
 the blood was running in flreams down their faces. Behind the corpfe 
 was a multitude of people of both fexes. A female chief called 
 Fefene Duatonga, who is very corpulent, was carried on a kind of frame 
 made of two long bamboos, between wliich fhe fat on a piece of mat- 
 ting, and was borne by four men. Near her Futtafaihe walked ; and 
 next them two women, who were devoted to be ftrangled at the fune- 
 ral : one was weeping,, but the other appeared little concerned ; they 
 both were wives of the deceafed. Some of us followed them to the 
 fiatooka, near which they depofited the body for the prefent, in a houfe 
 carried thither for the purpofe, and which was hung round with black 
 cloth. This fiatooka is fituated on a fpot of ground about four acres. 
 A mount rifes with a gentle flope about feven feet, and is about one 
 hundred and twenty yards in circumference at the bafe ; upon the top 
 •(lands a houfe neatly made, which is about thirty feet long, and half 
 that in width. The roof is thatched, and the fides and ends left 
 open. In the middle of this houfe is the grave, the fides, ends, and 
 bottom of which arc of coral flone, with a covex of the fame : the 
 floor of the houfe is of fmall flones. The etoa and other trees grow 
 round the fiatooka. 
 
 To tlie left of the tomb, and without the cnclofure, fat about four 
 hundred people : the m^or part of them were men, for whom yava 
 was brewing. Oppofite to thefe were placed five large roafled hogs, 
 twenty bafkets of roafted yams, and about one hundred pieces of mai 
 (or mahie), the four pafte. A few paces from the provifions fat feven 
 or eight men, who were tabooed, and exempt from cutting themfclves. 
 .One of thefe gave orders concerning the difpofal of the hogs, yams, 
 ;ind yava ; all that drank of the latter were mentioned by name, by a
 
 May.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 237 
 
 perfon appointed to that office by Fefenc Duatonga, who now fccmed 
 to have the management of the funeral. They did not forget us ; but 
 in dealing out the liquor fcnt us each a part, which wc gave to the 
 natives who fat by us. Pcrfons of both fexes fcated themfelvcs in 
 different parts of the ground, beating their faces dreadfully ; and after 
 having emptied two bowls of yava, difperfed. 
 
 30th. During the night great numbers of people were pafling and 
 rcpafling. Preaching by brothers Buchanan and Kelfo. Many of 
 the natives crowded round our gate, and a few were admitted. Pre- 
 parations for the funeral were carried on with unremitting diligence 
 by the natives. 
 
 May ifl. Three roafted hogs were fent us this morning, one from 
 Fefene Duatonga, one from Tdogahowe, and the other from Fcenou 
 LucaluUo. In return we fent a prefent to Toogahowc only ; it con- 
 fided of a cooper's adze, an auger, a gouge, three gimlets, a plane, 
 two chiffcls, &c. Several ftrangers came to gratify their curiofity 
 during the day, great numbers of whom fi:ood without the fence, 
 noticing all our a6lions. Futtafaihe paid us a vifit this morning for 
 the firft time fince we have been on fhore ; one of the brethren fhaved 
 him, and whilft he was doing it the natives were afraid any of the 
 hair fhould fall to the ground, in which cafe not one of them would 
 dare to eat under the roof again ; however, no accident of that kind 
 happened. Great preparations are making at Bunghye for the fune- 
 ral ; people flocking from all quarters with hogs, fruit, cloth, fpears, 
 and clubs. 
 
 2d. The crowd in our neighbo\irhood is prodigious, and alarming 
 to us ; and we are informed they are likely to make a ftav of two or 
 three months, in which time He alone who reigns on high knows 
 what excefl'es they may run into towards us. 
 
 As the funeral was to take place to-day, brother Bowell went witli 
 Ambler to Bunghye to fee the ceremony, and found about four thou- 
 fand perfons fitting round the place where the fiatooka ftands. A few 
 minutes after our arrival we heard a e;reat fhoutins snd blowing of
 
 238 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179^. 
 
 conch-fliells at a fmall diftance ; foon after abovit an hundred men 
 appeared, armed with clubs and fpears, and rufliing into the area, 
 began to cut and mangle themfelves in a moft dreadful manner: 
 many flruck their heads violently with their clubs ; and the blows, 
 which might be heard thirty or forty yards off, they repeated till the 
 blood ran down in ftreams. Others who had fpears, thrull them 
 through their thighs, ■ arms, and cheeks, all the while calling on 
 the deceafed m a mofi: affecting manner. A native of Feejce, who 
 had been a fervant of the deceafed, appeared quite frantic ; he entered 
 the area with fire in his hand, and having previoufly oiled his hair, 
 fet it on fire, and ran about with it all on flame. When they had 
 fatisfied themfelves with this manner of torment, they fat down, beat 
 their faces with their fifts, and then retired. A fecond party went 
 through the fame cruelties ; and after them a third entered, fhouting 
 and blowing the fhells : four of the foremofl held ftones which they 
 ufed to knock out their teeth ; thofe who blew the fhells cut their 
 heads ^ith them in a fliocking manner. A man that had a fpear run 
 it through his arm juft above the elbow, and with it fticking faft ran 
 about the area for fomc time. Another, who feemed to be a principal 
 chief, a6led as if quite bereft of his fenfes ; he ran to every corner of 
 the area, and at each flation beat his head with a club till the blood 
 flowed down his flioulders. After this brother Bowell, Ihocked, and 
 unable to bear the fcene any longer, returned home. Futtataihe alfo 
 came to our dwelling, and ftayed about two hours. At two o'clock 
 in the afternoon four of us went to the fiatooka, where the natives of 
 both fcxcs were ftlll at the dreadful work of cutting and mangling 
 themfelves. We had not been long there before we heard at a diflance, 
 low but cxpreffive founds of the deepell: forrow and lamentation : this 
 was a party of about one hundred and forty women marching in Angle 
 file, bearing each a bafket of fand ; eighty men followed in the fame 
 manner, with each two bafkcts of coral fiuid, and fung, as they 
 marched, words Importing, " This is a bleffmg to the dead ;" and were 
 ^infwercd in rcfponfes by the women. Another company of women
 
 May.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 439 
 
 brought a large quantity of cloth, and anfwcrcd in their turn to the 
 above refponfes. Thus thefc three bands walked towards the tomb, 
 fdling or covering that part of the mount between the houfc and the 
 place where the corpfe lay, and the grave, with fine mats and cloth ; 
 after which, fcven men blew conch-llicUs, while others fung in a 
 doleful Itrain, exprcffivc of the moft lieart-felt grief. The corpfe was 
 now conveyed to the grave upon a large bale of black cloth, with 
 which, and fine mats, riiey covered it. The bearers, as they went, 
 walked llooping low, and carrying the bale in their hands. Whilft 
 tliefe fervices were performing, a company of men and women came 
 i-nto the area, and cut thcmfclvcs dreadfully. . After them another file 
 of females, nineteen in number, brought each a bag of their moft va- 
 luable articles; and twenty-one more had each a fine mat m their 
 hands, all of which they depofited in the tomb, being, as they call it,, 
 u prcfent for the dead ; and immediately after came a prefent from 
 Toogahowc,.confifi:lng of thirty-five bales of cloth, each bale carried 
 by four men on a frame. After the prcfents another party of mourners 
 entered the area, fixteen of whom had recently cut their little fingers 
 Qtt : thcfe were followed by another party with clubs and fpears, who 
 beat themielves as before defcribed, and disfigured their faces with 
 cocoa-nut hufks fixed on the knuckles of both hands.. We noticed 
 that thofe who had held offices, or were related, to the deceafed, were 
 the moft cruel to themfelves ; fome of whom thruft two, three, and 
 even four ipears into their arms^ and fo danced round the area, and 
 fome broke the ends of the fpears in their flefli. The grave was co- 
 vered with a hewn ftone about- eight feet long, four broad, and one- 
 thick : this fto«e they had fufpended with two large ropes, which 
 went round two ftrong piles drove into the ground at the end of the 
 houfc, and thence led to the area, were about two hundred men held 
 by them ; and whilft they lowered it llowly, women and children 
 wept aloud, or fung words importing, " My father, my father ! the ■ 
 beft of chiefs, &c." More cloth was then brought to be put into the 
 tomb ; and another party entered, and abufed themfelves as before. .
 
 240 riRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [lygr^ 
 
 After thefe paroxyfms of grief they fat awhile in filence ; and when 
 they had pulled the rope clear off the ftone which covered the grave, 
 thofe @n the mount gave a great fliout, which w^as anfwered by a ge- 
 neral tearing of the leaves from the necks of all prefent ; after which 
 they difperfed. 
 
 3d. Several ftrangcrs vifited us this morning, many of whom are 
 chiefs of confiderable influence : from them we received a few fmall 
 prefents. The dreadful work of cutting and mangling was again re- 
 newed to-day with frefh vigour by the natives ; but on refledlion we 
 did not think proper to go, and countenance by our prefence the cruel 
 cufloms ot this poor deluded people. Except being crowded by na- 
 tives round our enclofure, nothing material occurred on the two fol- 
 lowing days ; but to prevent mifchief as much as in us lay, we watched 
 at nights, two at a time, though, thank God, we have not as yet been 
 molefled ; and our friend Tdogahowe has threatened with death any 
 man that fhould be detedled in robbing us. 
 
 4th. Ambler, who had received from us various articles of wearing 
 apparel, and a box to fecure them, pretended to be robbed by the 
 natives, and contrived to have the empty box brought back ; but we 
 fufpe6led the cheat. He beat one of the women he lived with inhu- 
 manly, who ran away, and the friends of the other carried her off; 
 yet though this fellow was fo wicked, he rendered us confiderable 
 fervice by inftmding us in the language, as alfo did a young chief 
 named Foonogge. 
 
 6th. Took a walk to Mooco, a fine elevated fpot near the beach, 
 with houfes and enclofures, belonging to Feenou Towago, who lay 
 fick. We ftaid with him about four hours. He made us a prefent of 
 a fine American dog, an animal of which w^e flood in need. Wc 
 received alfo a prefent from a great chief of the Harby iflands. 
 
 On our way we obferved the country, and the manner of fencing 
 and cultivating their lands. It is in general level, laid out in fields 
 or fmaller enclofures, called abbeys, and fome flill lefs, which furround 
 the houfes, called ladorcs. Their fences arc reed, fet in a trench,
 
 May.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 141 
 
 plaited clofc, and faftciicd to ftakcs on the infidc, which flrikc root 
 and grow : they contain banana-trees, or yams, fet in rows three feet 
 afunder, which were now ripe ; between the rows the yiava root was 
 cultivated, or tlic talloo, another efculent root ; but they left the un- 
 cultivated parts very foul, and overgrown with weeds and grafs. Their 
 mode of working is to Iquat down on their hams, and hoe the 
 ground with an inftrument of hard wood, about five feet long, narrow, 
 with fharp edges, and pointed ; with this alfo they dig it up. 
 
 In the evening Bejijamin Ambler made ufe of very improper lan- 
 guage to the brethren, aiid dcfn-ed them to quit the abbey, and to fow 
 no more feeds. On this we applied to our friend and patron Tooga- 
 howc ; Mvtvie, who has rendered us fo many kind offices, accompa- 
 nied us. Toogahowe received us very cordially, faid he loved us and 
 all our brethren, and immediately gave us a pig and twenty fine yams; 
 and when he had heard our complaint was very angry, and fent im- 
 mediately for Ambler, who came, and notwithflanding his endeavours 
 to palliate what he had faid, he received a feverc reproof from the 
 chief, who told him that he had no right to our houfe, nor any thing 
 about us, and defired he would let us alone in future. 
 
 7th. This forenoon Futtafaihe, accompanied by two of his tuck- 
 ongcrs (or counfcUors), came, and flaid about an hour with us, then 
 took their leave. 
 
 About ten A. M. brother Buchanan preached from Heb. xii. 1.; 
 in the afternoon brother Kclfo from Cant. i. and afterwards adminif- 
 tcred the Lord's fupper. As few of the natives were permitted w ithin 
 the enclofure, we were enabled to wait on the God of our falvation 
 without diflra^tion. 
 
 8th. Our friend Toogahowe, attended by a numerous retinue, 
 brought us two pieces of cloth, and a fpade which we had given him 
 the week before ; he now wanted it cut in pieces, to make fmall iron 
 tools ; this was done, and as the grindftone had been fitted up, they 
 were alfo Iharpened for him : having fome yava root by us, we gave it 
 to him, fo that while the bufmefs of the fpade was going on, they 
 
 1 I
 
 24* FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 regaled themfelves over a bowl, and afterwards departed much pleafedl 
 Futtafaihe came to-day likewife, and brought with him a fine turtle. 
 More than twenty large double canoes arrived from the Harby iflands, 
 carrying upwards of fifty perfons each : in one of them was Morgan 
 Bryan, an Irifliman, the fojmer fliipmatc of Ambler and Connelly : 
 he had heard of our arrival fb early as about the time the flilp failed. 
 As foon as he landed he came and llaid fome time, but during our 
 interview gave fuch fpecimens of depravity as excited a wifla for him 
 never more to come under our roof. A writing-book forgotten at Fee- 
 nou Tdogahowe's his wife firfi; denied, and then produced ftripped of 
 moil of the leaves. 
 
 gth. Several chiefs came to fee us this morning, and brought tools 
 to be Iharpened. Morgan came again to fee us, and to our grief we 
 are likely to ha^e much of his company. Provifions in abundance arc 
 Hill broxight to Bunghye from all parts of the country. Strangers like- 
 wife are vifiting the fiatooka of Moomdoe, where they continue the 
 cruel mourning ceremony, but not fo much now as a few days ago, 
 Morgan, who had in the morning requelled iron tools of us, which 
 wc did not think proper to give, took the liberty, in concert with 
 Ambler, to upbraid us, and to ufe fuch language as much hurt our 
 minds. Ambler well knew that our flock of tools was much reduced, 
 yet he did not fcruple to fay, that, unlcfs we complied with his re- 
 quefl, he would, before ten days elapfed, adopt means to fatisfy him- 
 felf ; and with this threat walked off. May He who has faid, " Be 
 " not difmayed, 1 am thy God," proteft us with his almighty power 
 from the machinations of thofe vt'icked men ! 
 
 10th. About five A. M. brother Kelfo being on watch difcovered 
 a nian creeping through the fence; he immediately ftruck the thief, 
 and repeated his blow^s till the man ran off. Mytyle being acquainted' 
 with it, was very forry the fellow was not killed. A fiftcr of Tooga- 
 howe's, named Feenou AUawallo, fcnt us a fine hog and eight baikets 
 of yams, and fcveral of her family followed, and ftaid moft of the 
 afternoon, which was rainy. In the evening Toogahowe came him-
 
 MavJ to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 243 
 
 felf, with a chief from Harby ; before he departed iic received a coN-er- 
 lid from one of the brethren, with which he was highly gratified. 
 
 nth. John Connelly informs us, that while the chiefs fat over 
 the yava bowl this morning, he overheard them laying plans to cm- 
 brace the firft opportunity to deprive us of all our poffcffions, but tliat 
 they waited the return of the fliip, when they hoped we fliould receive 
 more articles. The truth of this report we have no reafon to doubt, 
 as we know there is not a man on the ifland but would tell us upon 
 inquiry, that they are " matde monucka," that is to fay, " dying in 
 " in love for our things." This information gave us no fmall unea- 
 finefs, and led us to inquire what fleps were proper to be taken at thi^ 
 critical juniSure, and which was the path of duty. We knew not the 
 way of proceeding they might take to efFcdl their purpofc ; but as fa- 
 vages generally work themfclves up to fury on occaflons of enterprilc, 
 we had but little hope that they would regard our lives. After de- 
 bating the fubjedt, we concluded the fafeft plan would be, to feparatc, 
 and, going two ^gether, put ourfelves under the protection of the 
 greateft chiefs, and place our property alfo under their care ; by which 
 means we might fecure our perfons, and, at Icaft, fave our books ; but 
 that we might have one place whereat to meet and commune toge- 
 ther, it was judged proper that four of our number fliould remain 
 with Toogahowe. 
 
 In the afternoon brothers Bowell and Veefon, accompanied by 
 Connelly, went in queft of Toogahowe, who fcemed to difcover little 
 concern when he heard of our circumftances ; but wiflied that he 
 might have his fliarc of the property, if we did feparate. On this 
 we invited him to our habitation, and opened every box to his view, 
 from every one of which he took fomething, by way of tithe, and 
 departed fatisfied. 
 
 ] 2th. The night paffed quietly, and but few of the native:, came 
 near our fence ; however, the alarm of yeilerday was by no means 
 quelled. Toogahowe wiflied for us all to remain with him, the mo- 
 tives for which we could eafily fee through ; it appearing evident that 
 
 I I 2
 
 244 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797, 
 
 he hoped to receive fomething confiderable on the return of the (hip. 
 But the more we weighed the fubjed:, the more were we perfuaded 
 of the impropriety of remaining together. We had witneffed a great 
 wafte of provifions at the recent ceremonies, and which, by the daily 
 influx of ftrangers, was likely to continue ; this we were certain would 
 be fevcrely felt in the fcarce feafon, which was faft approaching. We 
 had many articles in our poiTeffion which would engage their affedion 
 and friendfhip. Except we feparated, we were likely to be the prin- 
 cipal fuffcrers, it being much eafier for a chief to provide for two or 
 four than for ten; befides, wc had hopes of acquiring the language with 
 greater facility. We therefore waitsd again upon Toogahowe, and 
 acquainted him with our refolution : he feemed willing we fliould do 
 as we pleafed ; but only feemed fo, for we knew he was inwardly 
 vexed about it. A chief named Mulcimer was fpoken to, who agreed 
 to take any two of our number. We next addrefled Feenou Alla- 
 wallo ; fhe is accounted the greateft chief of her family, is the fifter 
 of Toogahowe and mother of Fenou Towago. Sjae faid that flie 
 would gladly take two of us, but that her brother was averfe to our 
 leaving him ; that, as we had landed under his prote<5lion, he wifhed 
 us to remain fo ; and that he would account the chief his enemy who 
 attempted to entice us from him. On this account fhe advifed us 
 only to vifit the chiefs at their houfcs, where wc might make out 
 flay long or fhort, and fo return again ; and that at her houfe we 
 (hould be always welcome. This advice wc at prefent adopted, aud 
 w^e refolved to wait as we were. 
 
 A great heiva or mai was performed at the fiatooka of Moomoe ; 
 firfl by women in their bcfl garments and fineil mats : pieces of our 
 cloth or filk were added as ornaments ; the perfumed cocoa-nut oil 
 dropping from their hair. Two drums, and a vocal concert of men 
 fitting round, accompanied the women, who alfo fung and danced, 
 performing different evolutions in a mofl graceful manner. An old 
 chief at intervals called out, *' Fj-fogee," or, Encore ; and fbmctimes 
 " Marea," or, Well done.
 
 July.] to THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 245 
 
 Great preparations were made this morning for what they call a 
 mai, which was intended to be celebrated in the evening by women. 
 Upwards of" one hundred and thirty hogs were roafted, and, with three 
 hundred balltets of yams, were dillributed by Toogahovvc. Seven 
 hogs and as many bafkcts of yams were fent us by dittcrent perfons. 
 Our vifitors of rank were numerous. 
 
 As they arc always in fearch for iron, a thief contrived to fteal our 
 wafh-tub, took the lioops off, and concealed the ftaves in the grafs; 
 Thus wc were depri\ ed of the only utenfd we poffelfed of this kind. 
 
 14th. Divine fervicc by brother Buchanan, from Hcb. xii. 2.: 
 afternoon, by brother Kelfo, from Horn. vi. 23. 
 
 To-day Toogahowe was veiled with the name and authority of 
 Dugonagabbola, in the room of his father, Moomooe, dcceafcd. His 
 name was now changed from Fcenou Toogahowe to that of Talliata- 
 boo, the god of their family ; and we underfland that none of his fub- 
 jedls muft in future addrefs him by his former name, on pain ot' death. 
 ISth. Vaharta, a chief, vifitcd us, and brought us a hog, twenty 
 yams, &c. 
 
 ifkh to the 2 111. On Monday night we had a feverc tempell, 
 with copious fliovs'ers of rain. Strangers Hill are coming from the 
 Harby iflands and Vavao ; many of whom, as they arrive, go to the 
 fiatooka, and pay their tribute of refpedl to the dcceafcd, by cruel in- 
 fli<flions on their own bodies. The Icenes of joy and mourning now 
 occupy their whole time : at prefcnt tlie divcrllons of the women pre- 
 vail ; and in a few days the men will commence theirs. Thofc who 
 come from dillant parts of this illand are returning home, on. account 
 of the difficulty of getting food at Bunghye. The diverfions and cere- 
 monies, we luppofe, will yet lall fome weeks, in which time we can- 
 not expe<ft to make mxich improvement in our land. 
 
 On Sunday the 21 ft, brother Buchanan difcourfed from his former 
 text; brother Kelfo, from Col. ii. 12. 
 
 22 d. Prepared a piece of ground for turnips, which thrive better 
 than an) other feeds. Set fome peas and beans ; thofc wc firft planted
 
 '246 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 were in blow in about two months. The peas were chiefly deftroycd 
 by the rats, which abound here. Walked over the weftern part of 
 the i/land, not more then a mile acrols. The fliore rocky ; a hea^y 
 furfuponit. Obfervcd the natives amufmg themfelves with fwim- 
 ming in the furf, and carried on the top of the wave ; this fport they 
 called faneefo. 
 
 The men have begun their diverfions at Moomooe's fiatooka, and 
 praClife morning and evening in ditfcrent parties, under different chiefs. 
 Next Sunday is fixed for the cartonga lahie, or great toomai ; after 
 which, we are informed, many of the people will difperfe, of which 
 we ilaall be heartily glad. 
 
 28th. The great toomai was performed by men dreiTed in their 
 fined robes, and mats ornamented with feathers, beads, fliells, &c. ; 
 -the drums called tarraffe founding, accompanied by a chorus of per- 
 formers fmging, and holding in their hands an infbrument like a 
 paddle, called doboche, about .two feet and a half long, with a fhort 
 handle ; making curious flourifties, with correfponding motions, and 
 different attitudes ; thofe around them joining in the chorus. They 
 began in three lines, and fhifted by various evolutions, till thofe in 
 the rear became the front, moving in exaft time, and with a graceful 
 flep. Some of our number make a praAice of vifitlng one or other 
 of the great chiefs every day, by v/horn we are treated with much 
 affedlion, and they offer us any thing in their poffeffion. They take 
 great pains, and difplay much ingenuity, in endeavouring to make us 
 underftand their language. Through the week we have had a moft 
 liberal fiipply of provisions fcnt us, and have eleven hogs in our fty, 
 more than we well know how to feed. Maintained our ufual worlhipj 
 brother Buchanan fpoke from Hob. xii. 2. Kelfo from Col. ii. 13. 
 
 29th. Two of our brethren being invited by Futtafaihe to Mooa, 
 they fet off, and overtook him in about two miles, having refled with 
 his party to take their morning draught of kava : they purfucd their 
 journey in company. The Dooatonga (as Fit afaihe is entitled) being 
 unwell was carried by four porters, on a kind of litter. They pro-
 
 May.] to THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 247 
 
 ceeded not in the dire6l road by the beach, but turned to the right 
 inland, and {lopped at the largcft houfc they had fecn in the ifland, 
 being one hundacd and eighteen feet by fifty-fix, and neatly thatched; 
 it is called Natt'oola, and is about fix miles from ours. Here 
 they refled about three hours, during which they took a turn to 
 Lego, as they call the fouth-wcftern part of the ifland, fuw much land 
 cultivated for yams, but more ncglc6ted and overgrown with weeds. 
 There were vafl groves of cocoa-nuts, which grew on the bare rocks, 
 even to the edge of the cliffs. Below was a delightful fpring gufliing 
 out of a rocky cavern, into which, at high water, the fea flows. In 
 the evening they went to Togamaloolo, a beautiful fpot at a little 
 diflance from the road, where they flept. Before the houfe was a 
 large green area, and on each fide a fiatooka containing three tombs. 
 
 30th. Reached Mooa, the refidence of Futtafaihe ; they found the 
 abbeys and ladorcs of this village in a very ruinous condition, and the 
 fences much out of repair. Here are feveral houfcs, which Connelly 
 faid were fpirits houfes, where they found logs of wood, flones, and 
 bundles of rags, which were confidered as fpirits, being brought from 
 the Fecjee iflands, Thcfe places are falling dow n, but fo facred, they 
 mufl not be touched to repair them. Futtafaihe is very fuperflitious, 
 and himfelf cfleemed as an odooa or god ; he is alfo much devoted to 
 pleafure, finging, and dancing ; has feveral wives, the firfl women of 
 the country ; one, the daughter of Moomdoe, called Dooboumaofcr : 
 fhe has features and a complexion ver}' like a European, as fhc feldom 
 goes out of the houfe, or expofes herfelf to the fun and air. 
 
 The lands about Mooa are ill cultivated, and overgrown with grafs 
 and tralli ; though there are many beautiful abbeys planted w ith a 
 variety of trees and flowering flirubs of the mofl delicious fragrance. 
 
 Slfl. Very rainy and tempefluous. When it cleared up they walked 
 otit to fee the abbeys, canoes, &c. The fiatookas are remarkable. 
 There lie the Futtafaihes for many generations, fome vafl and ruinous, 
 which is the cafe wdth the largeft ; the houfe on the top of it is fallen, 
 and the area and tomb itfelf overgrown wdth wood and weeds. Poulabo,
 
 218 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179?. 
 
 the father of the prcicnt khig, is faid to have died and been uitcrrcd 
 at Vavao. 
 
 The hillory, if Ambler's report is to be received, is this : that Pou- 
 laho, but more efpecially his wife Mahoofe, of the Doubou family, 
 were tyrannical in their goyemment, difpoiTeffing the chiefs arbitra- 
 rily, and rendering themfelves odious. Toogahowe was then chief at 
 Eooa. Her majcfty, after Poidaho's deceafc, difmilTcd him from his 
 poft, and nominated another. This he refented, and refufcd to iub- 
 niit ; and told the mclfcnger he was a tooa, and not an agec, or chief, 
 elfe he would ha^ e challenged him to lingle combat ; but now he had 
 only to depart with his train, or he would put him to death. The 
 wind blow a ftorm, but he hailed back to his miftrefs, who inquired 
 the reafon of his return in ,fiacli a gale : Ixe related his reception ; and 
 Ihc replied, " Toogahowe has a mind to be killed, 1 will punifli his 
 " infolence." Toogahowe meantime convened the other chiefs, and 
 urged them to join him in fupport of their privileges. The CQnfli<3: 
 proved in their favour, and the queen w'as dri^ en to Aheefo, and tcok 
 ihclter at a houfe near ours at Attaboo. Here fhc fat with a garland 
 of leaves about her neck, and a gooterkoo in her mouth, which {}g- 
 nified, I crave niercy. Toogahowe was going to difpatch her with his 
 tooca-tooca, or fpear, but was withheld by his followers.; and flie was 
 futfered to efcape to the Haiby ifland?, where fhc now lives in exile. 
 Toogahowe, vi(itorious, exercifed great cruelties on his enemies, tying 
 fome to trees and burning them alive, and making great devaflations 
 at the Harby iflands. In a fight with the people of Vavoa, his canoe 
 outfailed the reft, and he fought them alone with ilich fury as gained 
 the vidory, and railed the fame of Jiis militar) prowefs to the highell 
 pitch ; fo that he is univerfally dreaded and obeyed. (3ur miffionaries 
 were witnelfes to lome of Toocahowe's lavatic condu<!:t:. One man 
 who difpleafed him had his hand cut off on the Ipot ; and another was 
 tied up with his arms extended, and two women were ordered with 
 liglitcd fticks to burn him under the arm-pits. Our brethren inter- 
 ceded for him, aud happily rcfcued him Irom this cruel punilhmcnt.
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 24g 
 
 June ift. The brethren returned in a faiUng canoe to Aheefo. 
 Futtataihc made them a prcfcnt of a hog and twenty yams, and ac- 
 companied them to a fmall illand in the bay called Makkahah, which 
 he had given them. 
 
 At Aheefo tbund feveral chiefs returning to their homes i one of 
 them, named Moore, invited Cooper and Gaulton to accompany him 
 to Ahoge on a vifit, which they accepted. Several of the chiefs have 
 given us preffing invitations to refide with them, and have offered ua 
 houfcs, and whatever we can dcfire ; fo that, whenever we feparate, 
 there is no fear of wanting an afylum. 
 
 4th. Spent the Lord's day as ufual : partook of the holy com- 
 munion. 
 
 6th. Bowell and Harper paid a vifit to Vaarjee, a chief of great 
 influence in the diilridt of Ardco : he informed us of fume of the vil- 
 lanics of Morgan and Ambler, rcipecfling feveral things they had llolen 
 from us ; and w-e met fome women dreffed in the ftolen things. 
 
 6th. Vaarjee led us a walk acrofs the countr)' to his family fia- 
 tooka. Below the cliff are caverns on which the furf beats, and the 
 water gullies back with furprifmg violence. 
 
 7th. Bowell and Harper returned from Ardeo, highly pleafed with 
 the treatment they had received. Vaarjee inquired carnellly of Mr. 
 Bowell, if we had any who could affill women in difficult labours. 
 Two of his fervants attended them with a large mat to flecp on, and 
 to aflure us of hogs and yams whenever we pleafed. He lives about ten 
 miles from us. His land is the beft cultivated we have feen ; he has 
 the largeft diftrid of any chief at Tonga ; and is not obliged to furnifli 
 Dugonagaboola with his produce. He employs a great numTjer of 
 fcrvants in different occupations and labours. At our return we found 
 the materials ready, and laid at our gate, w'hich Toogahowe had pro- 
 mifed to enlarge our dwelling. A mattock which we fometimes ufed 
 took his fancy, and was given him. Mytyle objeding to another 
 <red;ion within the abbey, we fet it up in an adjoining field, whick 
 we propofed. to clear and cultivate. 
 
 K K.
 
 250 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179^^ 
 
 . lOth. Heard that Feenou' Lukolallo was ill, and not likely to live. 
 A pair of* pantaloons were llolen. Mytyle had ingratiated himfelf with^ 
 us, by his readinefs to teach us the language, and was a very intelligent, 
 man, but we were forry to detedl him in fevcral petty thefts. 
 
 nth. Spent the Lord's day in our ufual manner. Futtafaihe. 
 vifited us, and wilhed we would lliave him. We excufed ourfelvey 
 from doing it, as we never did any manual labour on the odooa day,. 
 Our gracious Father has given us great acceptance in the fight of this' 
 peopk, who exprefs much furprife at obferving how different our. 
 manners are from thofe of our countrymen-, whofe time is fpent im 
 idlenefs and profligacy. One of them has four wives, another three, 
 and the other two. With fuch men it is impofTible for us to maintain 
 any fellowfliip, and their envy and enmity we bitterly experience. 
 
 12th. This morning Lukolallo died; and Foonogge, a young:* 
 chief, informed us that Morgan and Ambler had been very induf- 
 trious of late to irritate the minds of the natives againft us, telling, 
 them that wc were only tooas (mean people), and that they were 
 agees (chiefs), and fbns of the king of England. They had alfo re- 
 commended to them to attack and plunder us. After this we did not 
 think proper to ftay in the houfe where we were, but to remove to 
 one larger, which ftood in the enclofure next to Dugonagaboola, ta 
 which the chief readily confented, and all things except our hogs were, 
 taken thither this evening. However, next day when we went to 
 fetch them we found the fVy broken, and but one remaining ; two 
 were near the fty, and after the flridleffc fearch we found only another:, 
 thus our flock was reduced from nine to four. 
 
 14th. Ambler and Morgan having heard that wc fufpe^led them 
 ©f having driven off our hogs, came to our houfe, and began to abufe 
 us ; and Morgan even kicked one of our number. Seeing them- 
 determined to proceed further, a fcufflc enfued ; Morgan again flruck 
 with his club the perfon he had before kicked ; but the blow did no 
 great injury. They then defifted, finding themfelves overpowered, 
 but not from uttering the mofl horrid execrations both on us and alfo
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. ibl 
 
 on thcmfclves, if they did not prove bitter enemies, and murder us 
 before morning. 
 
 In the evening we again met to confider furtlier the propriety of 
 remaining together ; Avhen it was obfervcd, befides the rcafon formerly 
 given, that we made lefs progrcfs in the language than we fliould if 
 we had only natives to convcrfe with. After much converfation, 
 there appeared, on a divifion, eight for parting, againft it two. It was 
 then agreed, that a divifion of the public property flioul take place. 
 On acquainting Dugonagaboola with what we had done, he confented, 
 and promifed to come to our houfe on the l/tb, and received a pre- 
 fent which we had provided for him. 
 
 15 th. A divifion of the public property took place. Morgan and 
 Ambler came again to-day, but more peaceably difpofed. On the 
 1 6th Connelly came and afted his part. He wanted a clock for Fut- 
 tafaihe, and infifted upon having it, faying that it had been promifed 
 before. But we could not think of complyijig with fuch prefump- 
 tuous demands, especially as we knew no fuch promife had ever bcea 
 made ; therefore he went away much difpleafcd. Next day he came 
 again, and received the fame anfwer. He then fwore he would do us 
 all the harm he could, and that he would murder the firfl of us he 
 could get into his power. Thus we experience perils among the hea- 
 then, but more from our own countrymen. 
 
 Sunday 13th. Buchanan preached from Pfalm Ixxiii. 1, 2, §. 
 Kelfo, from Heb. iv. lo. 
 
 20th. Our vifitors are not half fo numerous now as they have 
 been, owing in part to a funeral ceremony about three miles from our 
 habitation. This morning Mytyle fent his fervants with one of our 
 loft hogs. Vaarjee's funeral fervices ending, he told us he fhould to 
 turn in two nights; and, if we were ready to go with him, would 
 fend his fervants to remove our luggage ; to which we agreed, and 
 went to Attaboo to fee our garden ; only a few cabbage-plants had 
 come up, which we tranfplanted. But Vaarjee being unexpcdedly 
 detained four or five nights longer, we returned to our houfc at Bung- 
 
 K K 2
 
 232 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i79r. 
 
 hye. Thither in the cvcnhig two clilcfs brought a fine lad, with his. 
 hands tied together with finnet, and wanted to barter (tuccatow^) 
 him for an axe. We inquired what the lad had done, if he was enow v 
 a bad boy ; they faid. No, lllle ddono oofee, allofy fakow. Good foe- 
 roafting yams and running errands. But we told them we were ta- 
 booed from all fuch iniquitous practices as felling our fellow-creatures;. 
 on which they carried him away. 
 
 24th. Went to vifit the fiatooka of Feenou Lukolallo near the fea; 
 at Valoo ; it is on a fine plain fliaded with toa and other trees. Several, 
 people fat round the grave, which was covered with black cloth, and. 
 remarkably clean and neat; we fat down to converfe with them, and, 
 improve the opportunity for their inftru6lion. They fhewed us two. 
 logs of wood rudely carved in a human fliape, which they faid were 
 odooas brought from Feejee. We told them thcfe could not be fpirits,, 
 but mere pieces of wood fit only for the fire. Nor did they fcem, by 
 the manner in which they tofled them about, to have any idea of their: 
 iimdtity. We have not yet found that they have priefts, or any ftated- 
 ceremonial worfliip, but poifels many fuperftitious notions about fpi- 
 rits ; and that by flrangling fome relations of the chief when he is fick,. 
 tlic deity will be appeafed and he will recover. 
 
 25th. Divine fervice as ufual. Buchanan, 1 TheiT, v. Q. Kclfo^ . 
 Eph. iv. Q. 
 
 '27th. Shelly and Nobbs accompanied Vaharlo to his houfe at. 
 Ahogc. This chief has fhewn a peculiar attachment to us, Vaarjee: 
 called on us in confcquence of a mcfl'age to him from Dugonagabpola, 
 who did not chufc we fhould leave him, or rather remove with our 
 effc(fts to another chief. However, on making him a prefent he con- 
 fcntcd, allured us of his cordial regard, and that whenever wc came • 
 to Aheefo we Ihould have a welcome reception with h'lm- 
 
 28th. About a quarter paft three o'clock in the morning we were, 
 much alarmed by a fhock of an earthquake, w hich lafled about a mi- 
 nute, during which time the earth kept a continual trembling; it 
 was fcnfibly felt by us all. Our confteniation on this occafiou wa&
 
 June.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 253 
 
 much incrcafcd by the natives around us, who feemcd quite panic- 
 ftruck, and fct up loud cries: and the furf on the beach made a greater 
 noife than we ever heard before. This we confidercd as a wonderful 
 exertion of divine power, and a fign at which we beheld thofe who 
 dwell at the uttermoll parts of the earth tremble. May the time 
 haften when they lliall learn to know and love Him of whom they are 
 afraid ! Early in the morning we were vifited by fome of the natives, 
 to whom we mentioned the earthquake ; tlie impreffion it made upon 
 them fecmed to be but momentary ; they imputed it to the odooa (or 
 fpirit), of which they feem to haAe very confufcd notions, afcribing 
 every thing to it which exceeds their comprehenfion, and of which 
 they know not the immediate caufe. Ambler fays that it is the fourth 
 fliock they have had fince he landed here about eighteen months ago. 
 7»o-day brothers Bovvxll and Harper took their departure from us, and 
 went to refide with Vaarjec, a principal chief at Ardeo, about ten. 
 miles dillant. 
 
 29th. Bowcll and Harper embarked with Vaarjce and his mother 
 Duatonga Fefene, who feems the firft woman in tlie illand, and was 
 -going to Mooa. They landed at a fmall ifland in the bay, where they, 
 llcpt the firft night.. 
 
 Nobbs and Shelly returned from Ahoge, where they had felt the 
 earthquake as fcnfibly as we had done, and attended with inuch the 
 iame clrcumftances. They rcpjort that they vyere treated with the ■ 
 greateft kindncls, not only by their friend, but. by all \ylth whom they 
 had any intercourfe ; as a proof whereof, they brought t\ru hogs, t^\o. 
 hundred yams, and fix bunches of cocoa-nuts. 
 
 30th. Finding Bowcll and Harper reading a book> their friend 
 Vaarjee inquired what it faid : they endeavoured- to make him com- 
 prehend the facred fubjecl of which it created, which he feemed to 
 vuidcrftand, and mentioned to his mother, who was fitting by. They 
 embarked at eight o'clock ; the wind being againft them, they beat 
 up to Mooa, and were entertained for the night by Kaneer, a friend 
 of this chief. The next day, the 31 ft, they arrived at Ardco. Spent 
 the evening in .learning the language ; tbtir friend Vaarjee being an
 
 •25-1 TIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [lygf. 
 
 • excellent tutor, and improving every occurrence to make them ac- 
 quainted with the meaning of words, and the names of things, in the 
 'cleareft manner. 
 
 July ift. (At Aheefo.) Dugonagaboola fent for brother Shelly, to 
 inform him of his intended departure to Mooa on Monday next ; and 
 as he was apprehenfive that we might run fliort of provrfions in his 
 abfence, he advifed us to accompany him thither, and oiFered to put 
 = our property into a place of fafety till his return, which he propofes in 
 about two moons, or months ; but as we expccft the fhip much fooncr, 
 we thought it inexpedient to accept this favour. We could not, how- 
 ■ever, fufficiently admire the goodnefs of God, who hath the hearts of 
 all men in his keeping, thus to incline this man to fuch a provident 
 care over us, notwithftanding the pains our adverfaries have taken to 
 incenfehim againft us. 
 
 •Sunday 2d. Brother Buchanan pteached in the morning from 
 1 Theff. V. g. ; brother Kelfo, afternoon, from Matt, xxvii. 35. and 
 -afterwards difpenfed the Lord's fupper. 
 
 3d. Brother Vcefon went to rcfide with Mulicemar, in the diftrid 
 -of Ahogc. We now begin to fee fomething of the defigns of Provi- 
 dence in cafling us at ovu- 'firft landing into the midft of fuch confu- 
 •fion and diforder as then filled us with apprehcnfion for our fafety ; he 
 at that time not only made daily difplays of his almighty power, and 
 •gracious care, in prote<5ting us from every threatening danger, but, by 
 x;ollc(Fting a vaft concourfe of Grangers .from every quarter, both of 
 Tongataboo and the adjacent iflands, and giving us favour in their 
 fight, feems already to have opened a door for us to evety part of this 
 extenfivc group. Wc have received prcffing invitations to fcveral of 
 the neighbouring iflands, which nothing but a want of the language 
 'has prevented us from accepting. But we hope by a diligent applica- 
 tion to remove that obftacic : fo that we now look for opportunities 
 of promoting the glorious defign in which wc arc engaged, which at 
 •firfl we little cxpeded. -" The Lord's way is in the fca, and his path 
 " in the great waters, and his footflcps arc not known." 
 
 4th, At feven in the morning, being nearly anfwcrable to the time
 
 July..] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 255 
 
 when we expcd; our friends in London to be engaged in the like ex- 
 ercife, wc held our monthly prayer-meeting, and encouraged ourfelves 
 witli the thought that many of the Lord's people were earncftly be- 
 fecching at a throne of grace in our behalf; and trull it will be no 
 fmall comfort to them to know, that he has gracioufly heard, and 
 fcems to be giving anfwers of peace, by continually bellowing on us a 
 rich fupply of every needful blcffing. 
 
 In the afternoon we received a letter from brothers Bow^ell and 
 Harper,. acquainting us with their welfare. 
 
 7th. We were vifited by the wife and daughter of Moore, a chief 
 who refides at Ahogc, and to whom brothers Gaulton and Cooper had 
 paid a vifit fome time ago. He at that time had given them a large 
 houfe and plantation, to induce them to refide with him, to which 
 they confcntcd ; but, being iince prevented, his impatience excited 
 him to fend this melTage for them. They brought a hog and a large 
 quantity of yams. 
 
 This evening we felt another lliock of an earthquake, but it was 
 neither fo fenfible nor of (6 long duration as the former. 
 
 8th. Brother Harper came to fee us, and fays that they are very 
 comfortable at Ardoo with Vaarjee, who is anxious to indulge them 
 to the utmofl of his power, and has alTigned them apartments, wholly 
 to themfelvcs, and is very ready and ufeful in inllrutfling them in the 
 language. 
 
 Sunday the gth, brother Buchanan preached from 1 ThelT. v. 9. ;. 
 brother Kelfo, from Gen. xxii. 1. 
 
 10th. Brother Harper returned home this evening to- Ardeo, ac- 
 companied by brother Wilkinlbn. 
 
 12th. (At Ardeo.) Laid out the grafs-plot before our houfe, with 
 brother Wilkinfon's help, in the European llyle,.with the garden; 
 which we began to cultivate. Taught Vaarjce's men the method of 
 digging the ground with fpadcs, and planted fome pine-applcj. Vi- 
 fited a chief called Tooboocovaloo, a relation of our friend ; v. ere en- 
 tertained with great hofpitality, and received from him a fme low ia;
 
 256 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 pig, and tJirccfcore yams, for which, in return, wc gave him two or 
 three tools, and fome earthen plates. On- the Lord's day having told 
 Tooboocovaloo that we did no wo/k, and Ipent the whole in the wor- 
 fliip of God, he afked with rauch humour, whether wc might eat on 
 that day ; and having informed him, he very kindly fent us a baked 
 hog, on which we dined together : he gave us alfo a very firte myrtle 
 and other flirubs, with pine-apples for our garden, which we planted. 
 Received, alfo a parcel of garden-feeds and a 4^ade from Bunghye. 
 
 I'lth. (At Aheefo.) After conilant and heavy rain, which lafled 
 from morning until night with little intermiflion, we were vilitcd with 
 the hcavicft fturm of thunder and lightning which we have had fincc 
 our arrival on the illand ; however, fuch weather fcems not fo fre- 
 quent here as inight be expelled from the fituation of the country. 
 
 15th. The rain flill continued very heavy all day. In the evening 
 brother Wiikinfon returned home, having been kindly entertained by 
 our brethren at Ardeo. On his return he loll his way, and was ex- 
 pofed to fbme. danger ; but the Lord vvlio keeps all our goings, gra- 
 cioufly prefcrvcd him. 
 
 16th, Sunday. Brother Buchanan difcourfed from Ifaiah, liv. 13, 
 During the intervals of worfliip we hxjard a hideous outcry of the na- 
 tives towards Bunghye, and were afterwards informed that it was oc- 
 cafioned by a number of men juft arrived from Vavao, who had re- 
 paired to Moomooe^s tomb, to e^incc their affciflion and refpedl by 
 the fame cruel ceremonies as had been obfcrvcd at his funeral. O that 
 the falvation of Ifnicl were come fortli out of Zion! When God brings 
 back the captivity of tliis people, how \\ ill our hearts rejoice to hear 
 thefe horrid bowlings changed into longs of praile to Him who has 
 redeemed his people from death, and ranfomed them from the po\\cr 
 of the gra-ve ! In the afternoon brother Kelfo preached from Dcut. 
 X){xii. 2. 
 
 17th. We Avere favoured with a vifjt from brother Vccfon, and a 
 fon of Muliccmar ; thev brought a fine hog and yams with them 
 from that chief, and informed us of the death of Tamaifuma on the
 
 July.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISL\NDS. 257 
 
 13th inftant : he was a chief of great rcpiitc for pcrfijnal courage ; and 
 this circumftancc our advcrfarics fccm to imi)rove to fome purpofc 
 againft us, by making the nati\cs bcUcvc tliat our God, in anfwcr to 
 our prayers, kills them. This being the fourth chief that has died 
 fnicc our arrival, makes them fay they never died fo fail before ; 
 and imputing all to the fame caufe, they fay, that if we continue 
 praying and fmging, there will not be a chief left alive. This idea, 
 which could only originate from the flithcr of lies, working in thefe 
 children of difobedience, feems calculated to create us fome trouble ; 
 but ftill it is an unfpeakable comfort to reflecfl, that it Ihall prevail no 
 farther than is confillent with the holy, wife and gracious defign of 
 our heavenly Father, who, we doubt not, will make his ftrength per- 
 fcft in our weaknefs, fo that we may boldly fay, " The Lord is our 
 helper, we will not fear what man can do vinto us." 
 
 On the 18th the flime idea was mentioned to us by different per- 
 fbns ; it feems to gain ground with them very fall, and our endea- 
 vours to perfuade them to the contrary are fruitlefs at prefent. In the 
 forenoon brother Veefon took his leave; and on Saturday the 22d, 
 brother Bowell paid us a vifit. In the beginning of the week he had 
 been at Mooa, where the greateft part of the inhabitants are at prefent 
 affembled for the celebration of the annual natche. There he found 
 the minds of the people had received the fame dangerous impreffion, 
 and that our countrymen were the fole authors and propagators of it ; 
 the Lord, however, has gracioufly over-ruled it, fo that it has in fome 
 degree brought the mifchief they intended us upon their own heads. 
 When it was firll mentioned to brother Bowell, Vaarjee was prefent, 
 and was much difpleafed with the perfon who fpoke of it. Ambler 
 had alfo endeavoured to poifon the mind of Dugonagaboola, who heard 
 him with great indignation, and hiffcd him out of his prefence, A 
 few days after, this fellow quarrelled with one of the chief's carpenters, 
 whom he kicked on the brcafi:, and abufcd him otherwife in a (hocking 
 manner : on this he complained to his mafter, and Ambler, inftead of 
 making any acknowledgments for his condud, thought proper to 
 
 L L
 
 258 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE ' [1797. 
 
 jufllfy it in the moft provoking manner ; upon which he ordered hini 
 from his prefcnce, threatening his ht'e if he ever Iliewed his face there 
 more : fmce that we hear he has gone to Futtafaihe ; fo that Morgan, 
 Connelly, and he, are all together, and, we have no doubt, will be 
 adlive in plotting farther mifchief : thus their machinations were de- 
 ftroyed without our interference. Flow true is it, that the wrath of 
 man fhall praife God, and the remainder of wrath he will reftrain, and 
 that no weapon formed againfl his people fliall profper ! 
 
 23d. Brother Buchanan preached in the morning from Ifaiah, 
 liv. 13. Kelfo, from Deut. xxxii. 2.; after which brother Bowell 
 took his leave. 
 
 On the 20th, brother Shelly, who has had the care of our few me- 
 dicines {mcc brother Harper left us, went to fee a woman who, witli 
 others, had eaten fome filh of a poifonous nature, which was likely to 
 be, to her in particular, attended with bad confequences : an emetic 
 was adminiflered, which removed the caufe of the diforder, and reflored 
 the poor woman to health. According to the cuftom of the country, 
 be received his fee before he returned : this was a roafled hog, which 
 is generally killed as loon as the doflor arrives, who is expcd;ed to 
 wait till it is fufficiently roafted ; it is then given to him : but this 
 being the firfl iniiance of the kind, like an inexperienced beginner who 
 knew not the profits of his trade, he divided it chiefly betwixt the 
 poor woman and her friends. It would be a valuable acquifition ta 
 this country, and might be a means of facihtating our work, to have 
 a good flock of medicines, and a iTcilful perfon to apply them. The 
 difordcrs which have principally come under our obfervatian are, a dy- 
 fentery, of which the perfon is recovered; a dj-opfy, of which we have 
 fecn but one cafe ; a diforder among the children, which fpreads all 
 over them like the fmall-pox, and feems of as loathfome but more 
 inveterate nature ; for we found one in this condition at our firft 
 landing fcveral months ago, and there feems no alteration upon him 
 as yet ; its long continuance is probably owing to improper treatment: 
 wc know not whether it be infcdious. What feems moll general is
 
 JuLT.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 259 
 
 an ulcerous fore, to which they are very fubjcrt. In one family of our 
 acquaintance there are no Icfs than four perfons much affcd;ed by it : 
 the poor man has loft the ufc of his limbs entirely, fo that he is not 
 able to {land upright, and many parts of his body arc atfcctcd ; and 
 what renders his cafe truly pitiable, his wife is in little better condi- 
 tion ; a great part of her breads is already confumed, and one leg and 
 arm are very bad. Two of their fervants arc nearly in as bad a ftate 
 as themfelvcs ; they have often applied to us for afliftancc, which could 
 we afford them, would certainly raife us ftill higher in their cftecm ; 
 but at prefcnt we have neither proper medicines nor ikill to effecfl any 
 thing this way. In fome cafes we have feen old women apply the 
 juice of the bread-fruit, tied up in leaves, and made hot, with which 
 they rubbed the wound ; but it feemed to produce no good effedl. As 
 they have not the leafl idea of phyfic, whatever diforder they are at- 
 tacked with has its fidl courfe, and often proves fatal. 
 
 2 1th. The principal wife of Futtafaihe was delivered of her firft: 
 child, the fon and heir of his dominions ; on which occalion very con- 
 fiderable prefents were made. 
 
 25th. The great enudee, or natche, dcfcribcd by Cook, was held 
 at Mooa. Men in proccflion carried a yam, fufpended on a pole;- 
 others, armed with fpears, cried aloud to this effe6t, " Take care to 
 " keep the road clear;" and all paflcngers flood at a confidcrablc dif- 
 tancc. Ambler afl'ured us this was a thankfglving to the odooa for the 
 late ripe yams. We were invited to join the proccfTion, but did not 
 chufe to make our fhoulders bare, which was required, and to wear 
 the jeejee, a wreath of the leaves of a fhrub called jee, around our 
 waifl. Particular honour is paid to Futtafaihe on this occafiou. The 
 fame ceremonies are repeated at the feafbn of early ripe yams. The 
 ceremonial clofes with an amufement called fatarga, like cudgel- 
 playing, being finglc combat with the limbs of the cocoa-nut tree. 
 
 26th. (At Ardeo.) Vaarjec affifted us wuth all his people at our 
 abbey in levelling the ground, and laying out and planting our garden. 
 
 27th. Our chief took a fecond wife, a daughter of Tooboocavrdlo. 
 
 L L 3
 
 200 FIRST MISSIOlSJARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 She was accompanied by large bales of anaddoo, or cloth, of Tonga- 
 taboo. In the afternoon he went to finifh the funeral ceremonies for 
 his brother, in celebrating the games iifual on that occafion. His bride- 
 remained at home. Wc felt this afternoon a fenfible fliock of an earth- 
 quake at Ardeo ; and, as ufual, the natives fcreamed. Thefe fhocks 
 are common, and fometimes, they informed us, fo violent as to Ihake 
 down their trees and houfes. 
 
 30th. (At Aheefo.) Brother Buchanan difcourfed from S, Tim. 
 ii. 3.; brother Kelfo, from Exodus, xxxiii. 18. 
 
 On Monday brothers Gaulton and Shelly went upon a vlfit to Du- 
 gonagaboola at Mooa ; and in the afternoon Mooree (a chief) arrived' 
 from Ahoge, and brotight with him two canoes, in order to convey 
 brother Cooper home. This he had promifed fome time ago; but 
 the fear that Dugonagaboola would be atFronted at his taking any of 
 us trom under his care, had till now deterred him. 
 
 Auguft ill. Early this morning Cooper and his friend Mooree 
 took their departure : he is now the fourth of our number that hath 
 left us. What end the Lord may have in A'iew by thus fcattering us 
 about, we know not ; but hope that it will tend to the advancement 
 of his glory, by a more general difFufion of the gofpcl over this be- 
 nighted ifland. About funfct we had another Ihock of an earthquake, 
 which lalled about a minute and a half, and was felt over the whole 
 ifland. Ambler, we hear, is again in our neighbourhood. 
 
 On the 3d, brothers Gaulton and Shelly returned from Mooa, where 
 they had met Avith brother Veefon, who was in health and high favour 
 with his friend ; having lodged one night with him, they received a 
 warm rcmonftrance for it next day from Dugonagaboola, who affured 
 them of a welcome at his houfe, and cxpedled they would make ufe 
 ot no other. After inquiring into our liate at home, and how we 
 fared in his abfencc, he informed them of what our villanous country- 
 men had faid againfl us, and exprcffed his abhorrence of them on 
 account of it. On their way home they called at Ardco, where our 
 brethren were well, and defircd the whole body might meet once a
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 261 
 
 month for divine direcflion, and mutual counfel and encouragement in 
 our work. 
 
 5th. Brother Bowell arrived in the evening ; and on fabbath-day 
 brother Buchanan preached from 2 Tim. ii. 3.; in the afternoon 
 brother Kclfo, from Ifaiah, liii. 5. ; after which he difpcnfed the 
 Lord's fuppcr. It is furely an unfpcakable favour that the Lord thus 
 allows us to hold our folemn feafts in this land, and from time to time 
 is refrcfhing ns with his abundant goodnefs. If we had the happinefs 
 of feeing thefe poor creatures around us impreffed with a fenfe of their 
 loft and deplorable flate by nature, and the excellency and fuitablcncfs 
 of the Redeemer's charadler and falvation, which He has wrought, and 
 the gofpel reveals; if we. could but once fee them compelled to come 
 in and partake of our privileges, our joy would be full : however, it 
 becomes us not to defplfc the day of fmall things, but patiently to wait 
 for the fj.lvation of the Lord : He hath fpoken good concerning us, 
 and hath done for us great things, which confirms our hope, that the 
 day is not far diftant when He will make bare his holy arm in tlic 
 fight of the nations, and thefe ends of the earth fhall fee his falvation. 
 
 7th, Brother BowcU determining to remain with us till our monthly 
 prayer-meeting was over, we the next morning embraced the opportiJ- 
 nity of his prcfencc to hold a meeting of our little body, when it was 
 agreed that ^^■e Ihould obfcrve a general meeting the firft Monday of 
 every month : in the morning, for prayer and religious conference;' 
 and in the afternoon, for colleCl:ing matter for the public jovirnal, re- 
 porting progrcfs in the language, and confulting with each other on 
 the mod probable means of carrying our defigns into cffcft ; alfo that 
 our abfent brethren fhould be made acquainted with our deflgn, and 
 invited to join us in it. It was alfo rcfolved to hold a weekly prayer- 
 meeting and conference in our refpedive parties ; and that the anni- 
 verfary of our embarkation, which is jufl at hand, Ihould be obfcr\cd 
 as a day of public thankfgiving. 
 
 ()th. In the evening wc began our weekly meeting : brother Kclfo 
 opened it with priiife and prayer, then read the fccond chapter of tlii
 
 •iOi FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. [1797, 
 
 firfl of Peter, and fpoke from a part of it ; after which the other bre- 
 thren fpoke in rotation. That our attention might be more particu- 
 larly fixed on the fubjedl, it was agreed, that, previous to next week, 
 the portion of fcripture to be then difcuflcd fnould be made known ; 
 accordingly brothe/ Buchanan propofed the fecond chapter of Ephe- 
 fians. Brother Shelly concluded this prefent comfortable opportunity 
 in the fame manner as it was begun. 
 
 1 0th. The anniverfary of our embarkation completes the firft year 
 of our miflion, and the moll; remarkable of our lives, wherein the 
 Lord has, in anfwer to the many prayers of his people, and, we hope, 
 for the accomplilhment of his gracious purpofes, given us numberlefs 
 manlfcllations of his almighty power, his infinite wifdom, and un- 
 changeable love. While upon the mighty waters we were the peculiar 
 objcils of his providential care and bounty. His prefence has been 
 with us in palling through the fire and water ; and though they often 
 feemed to unite their rage and force againll: us, and to threaten our 
 deftruclion every moment, they were not permitted to do us any harm. 
 Some of us, when all help feemed to fail, were railed from the 
 opening grave, to praife him in our little afiembly ; and we were all 
 brought in fafety to our defircd haven, where his hand has been mofl 
 wonderfully " ftretched out ftill," in opening a door of acccfs for us 
 by the moft unexpected and improbable means ; in giving us favour 
 in the fight of the heathen ; in preferving us, though defencelefs and 
 expofed, from their rage and madnefs ; and in making all things lub- 
 fcrv ient to his own moft gracious dcfigns , in frullrating the machina- 
 tions, and canying headlong the counfels of our more heathenifii coun- 
 trymen, making them produce the very oppofitc ctfedls from what 
 they intended. Lo ! thcfe are a part of his ways ; biit if we would 
 tell of all the w^ondcrful things he has done for us, they arc more than 
 we are able to exprcfs. " O that men would therefore praife the Lord 
 " for his goodncfs, and declare his M^ondcrful works to the children 
 " of men !" 
 
 This day was rendered in li)mc mcafurc memorable by the lofs of a
 
 AcGusr.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 263 
 
 largo axo, which was fnutchcd from one of the brethren while he was 
 cutting fire-wood ; and in the evening fomc thic\ es broke into our 
 dwelling while we flept, and rifling the firft box they came to, which 
 held nothing but medicines, they had gone off with a quantity of bark, 
 jalap, nitre, &c. ; but thefe not fuiting their taftc, they left them in 
 the yard, where we found them next morning, fo that they got only 
 a few clothes that lay upon the chefts. 
 
 1 ith. John Connelly fent to know whether we intended to inform 
 Captain Wilfon of what had paffed between us and them, ob/erving, 
 that, if we did, it would reduce us to the greatcft ftraits, as it would 
 both prevent them from receiving thofe things they exped:cd, and 
 had promifcd to the natives ; and alfo cffedlually hinder their depar- 
 ture with him for China. This was accompanied with a hint of what 
 we might expecft, if our conduct was not fui table to their wiflies. In 
 anfwer we faid, that we neither wanted to injure nor to quarrel with 
 them ; and if they choie to go to China, we would be no hindrance 
 to them. 
 
 12th. Dvigonagaboola fent us a prcfent of provifions, which was 
 very acceptable : but in the courfe of the day we received the morti- 
 fying intelligence, that he had accepted our large axe with much cor- 
 diality from the perfon who ftole it ; and after fome compliments to 
 his dexterity, had feat him off to Vavao, to be out of the way when 
 the fhip arrived. This action gave us an idea of what .we might ex- 
 pe6l when our Intereft ftood in any degree in competition with that 
 of our noble friend ; and yet, Itrange as tlie contradid;lion feemed, all- 
 ©ur goods were every day in his power if he chofe to plunder us. 
 
 13th. Brother Buchanan preached from 2 Tim. ii. 3 ; and brother 
 Kellb, from Ifaiah, Iv. 0. The remainder of this week nothing re- 
 markable happened till Saturday the lyth, whea one of the natives 
 brought us the reviving news of the fliip's arrival at her former ftation. 
 Three of our number, viz. brothers Kelfo, Buchanan, and Gaulton, 
 fet out in quell of a canoe to carry them to her ; but after a fruitlefs 
 endeavour to procure onc^ Buchanan and Gaulton determined to travel
 
 21)4 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 by land, which brother Kelfo dccrined, ftill entcrtauiing a hope of 
 foon procuring a canoe. After travelling about feven miles along the 
 beach, they were met by a great number of the natives, one of whom 
 prefentcd them with a note, which brother Bowell had difpatched for 
 their information at Aheefo. This man had brought us feveral mef- 
 •fiiges of the fame kind on former occafions ; and underltanding the ■ 
 nature of it better than any of his countrymen, he had endeavoured 
 to explain the ufe of it to thofe who were with him : this excited 
 their curiofity to a degree which induced them to bear him company, 
 in order to fee it delivered, and know thereby whether or not what 
 he faid Avas true. When they faw the joy which the opening of it 
 gave the brethren, they feeined llruck with amazement, and were 
 perplexed in no fmall degree, when they perceived that by means of 
 it they knew as well as themfelves that the fliip had arrived, and 
 where Ihc lay. The whole company, together with the bearer of the 
 note, fbon left the brethren, in order to return to the fliip, for which 
 they were fo eager, that nothing could induce him to proceed to 
 Aheefo with the note. In the afternoon the two brethren arrived at 
 the Ihip, and had the happinefs to find that all on board had frefh 
 ground whereon to ered; an Ebenezer to the Lord, who had gracioufly 
 . helped them through many imminent dangers, and preferved them 
 from many evils wherewith they had been furrounded. Surely his 
 goodnefs exceeds all fearch. O for hearts formed to fliew forth his 
 praife ! 
 
 -20th. Brother Buchanan preached on board from Pfalm v. 12.; 
 and brother Bowell in the afternoon. 
 
 On the 21 ft, early, many of the principal chiefs came on board, 
 among whom was Futtafaihe, who, as foon as he faw brother Bucha- 
 nan, renewed his folicitations for him to go and live with him, at the 
 fame time reminding him of a promife to that purport, given on our 
 fu-fl arrival, alfo of the feveral proofs of his favour fnice bellowed ; and, 
 with frcfli aflurances of his love and eflccm, promifcd, on his part, to 
 render every thing as agreeable as was in his power, and to remove
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 2(55 
 
 every obflaclc, if brotlicr Buchanan would but mention them to him : 
 this, however, at prefcnt he dechned to do ; but the chief being well 
 acquainted with the recent viUany of Connelly (who has refided with 
 bim ever fmce he came to the ifland) and his alfociatcs. Ambler and 
 Morgan, aflicd if he was imw'illing to live with Connelly, and being 
 anfucrcd in the affirmative, he immediately propo/ed to bind him 
 hand and foot, and bring him on board ; but this propofal was at this 
 time rejected, it being more defn-ablc to Captain Wilfon, and all con- 
 cerned, that thcfe fellows flaould come on board as they had promifcd, 
 and depart of their own accord. Brother liuchanan could not help 
 looking upon this as a plain call of Providence, and determined in his 
 own mind to comply with it if he could find another brother willing 
 to accompany him, and if the propofal alfo met with the approbation 
 of Captain Wilfon, and the brethren on board, which it did. Brother 
 Gaulton readily confented to be his partner. When their intention 
 was communicated to Futtafaihe, he exprcfled great fatisfadion, and 
 immediately invited them to go on flaore, and chufe a place for their 
 future refidence. In the afternoon brother Shelly arrived from Aheefo, 
 and informed us that the thieves had paid another vliit, and carried off 
 a duck. 
 
 22d. Brother Gaulton wxnt to Aheefo, in order to bring his own 
 and brother Buchanan's chcft, and other things, to Mooa, where Fut- 
 tafaihe had giAcn them their choice of a number of beautiful dwel- 
 lin2;s, fituated between his houfe and the lagoon, which runs into that 
 part of the country ; and after chufmg one about two hundred yards 
 from his own, thcv returned on board. 
 
 23d. Connelly having heard of our being at Mooa yeftcrday with 
 Futtafaihe, thought that our bufmefs had been to take him and his 
 companions on board ; he therefore came to fpeak to the captain con- 
 cerning it, who informed him that he had no dcfire to proceed after 
 that manner ; but if he and the others chofe to flilp as feamen, they 
 lliould have the lame wages and treatment as his own failors had. To 
 
 M M
 
 166 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 this Connelly faid he would return an anfwcr in fix dayS;, in which 
 time he would confult with his comrades. 
 
 Fefene Ditatojiga, the firft woman on the ifland, came on board 
 with her principal lady in waiting : their hair was plaftered up with 
 a compofition which very much refemblcd the powder and pomatum 
 of a fine-drefled London belle. Her feet are kiffcd in token of ho- 
 mage by all who approach her ; and fiich arc her ideas of her own 
 dignity, that flic admits no fixed hufband as a companion, but coha- 
 bits with thofc of the chiefs whom flie, pleafes to felert, and has feveral 
 children. A fine boy of about twelve years old attended her on board. 
 Several prefents of fciflars were made, which highly pleafed them ; 
 and when they left the Ihip they jvimped overboard, and wafhed the 
 ihow-white decoration from their hair before they paddled on ihore 
 with their canoe. Brother Wilkinfon brought ofF a fine bunch of 
 turnips of their firft crop, which had been almoft v>'holly dcllroyed 
 by the rats. They contrived a trap, in which they caught a great 
 many, which were given to the women at their requeft, and eaten rav/ 
 as relifliing food. Sent fome cats to the miffionaries> the. firft which 
 were ever introduced into the ifland. 
 
 20th The noble lady vifitcd the flilp to-day with two or three fe- 
 male attendants ; and the captain fent her on fliore highly delighted in 
 an elegant Englifli drcfs which had been refcrved for fuch'an occafion. 
 
 Our time this week was chiefly employed in dividing, and carrying ~ 
 to our refpecftive places of refidcnce, the part of the cargo which, in . 
 the divifion at Otaheitc, had fallen to our fliare. In it \vc found fuch . 
 an immenfc quantity of ufeful and neceiTary iron tools of all forts, as 
 far exceeded our grcatcft expectation, and filled the natives with afto- 
 niflimcnt. Our warmcft acknowledgments are due, and muft fall in- 
 finitely fhort of our obligations, to the divine Author of all our mer- 
 cies, who hath put it into the hearts of his people to provide, and of 
 his honoured fervants, the direftors, to beftow on us fo bountiful a 
 fupply of every thing that could be dcvifcd for our comfort, and the
 
 August.] TO THE SOUTJI-SEA ISLANDS. 1(i^ 
 
 furtherance of the work in whicli we are engaged ; but cfpccially for 
 the wonderful manner in which he has prepared, brought forward, and 
 preferred our dear captain, whom wc cannot but efteem as the greatcil: 
 tefllmony of the divine favour bellowed on our focicty. While on the 
 voyage, the profperlty and furtherance of the work fcemcd to cngrofs 
 his whole attention. To his indulgent care in procuring and allowing 
 us every comfort that could be enjoyed by people in our circumftances, 
 might be imputed that extraordinary degree of health which we en- 
 joyed. His couiifcl and advice has often guarded us from the intrufion 
 'of difcord. His convcrfation was wholly calculated to llimulatc our 
 zeal. In our abfcnce he has been mindful of our intcrcfts, and has 
 cffeftually prevented every complaint. The affability and kindnefs of 
 his conduc!:! among the natives has won him their affections : and in- 
 deed in what we have reafon to believe is his principal aim, he has 
 fiiccccded wonderfully, that is, to adorn the dodlrlnc of God our Sa- 
 viour la all things. May the Lord enable us to do likewife, and fill 
 our hearts with gratitude to himfelf, and to all the Inftrumcnts of 
 his unbounded goodnefs ! May we walk as children of fo many mer- 
 cies ; and knowing that we are but ftewards of thofe gifts of his pro- 
 vidence for which wc mull: ere long give an'account, may wc be led to 
 devote ourfelves, and all our enjoyments, to his praifc and glory, that 
 ■we may give In our account with joy In the day of our Lord Jcfus ! 
 
 W M 2
 
 2(58 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1792. 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 Defer tpi ton of Tongatahoo. 
 
 OUR dear iriends and benefadlors in the dirciSioii may juilly loolc 
 for fome account of this country, where tlic Lord in his gra- 
 cious providence, through their infti-umentality, has placed us ; and 
 we think ourfelves bound, in gratitude to them, to furnifh them with 
 the fullefl: information in our power; but in this attempt we find 
 ourfch es miich at a lofs for want of the Rcr. Mr. Greathced's manu- 
 fcript account of thefe iflands, which happened to be left at Otahcitc, 
 and which if we had brought with us, would have been ufeful in di- 
 refting our attention to fcveral objeds which may have cfcapcd our 
 notice. Notw ithftanding the numerous invitations we have received 
 to \dfit other iflands of this group, we have not as yet feen it our duty 
 to comply, as, for want of the language, fuch vifits could be no way 
 profitable to the nati^ es, and \\ ould have cxpofcd us to {o many unnc- 
 ceiTary temptations. 
 
 Our obfervations miift therefore be wholly confined to Tongatahoo ; 
 the fituation, extent, and produ6t of which are already fo well known,, 
 that there remains but little to be faid concerning it. Captain Cook's 
 account is in general fo acc\u-ate as to render very little addition or cor- 
 rection ncceffary ; however, a fpace of many years which has clapfed 
 fince his laft voyage, has produced fome changes which it may not be 
 improper to communicate. On our arrival we foiuid few of his old 
 friends remaining, and their number has fince been ixduced by death ; 
 but his name is fi:ill mentioned with great refped; by many of their 
 fuccelTors, who recolleft his favours beftowcd upon them when in a. 
 fiate of childhood, which they often relate in a manner that befpcaks. 
 them to be by no means deftitutc of gratitvide.
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 269 
 
 The government of Tongataboo is fo complex in itfelf, and the na.- 
 tivcs' account of it fo different, each taking a particular pride in ex- 
 alting his own chief above others, tiiat it is difficult to come at any 
 certainty concerning it. Tlie following appears to us moil confident 
 with the truth. 
 
 This ifland bears an unrivalled fovereignty over the whole group, 
 Feejee not excepted. The inhabitants of Feejee having long ago dif- 
 covered this ifland, frequently invaded and committed great cruelties 
 in it ; but in an expedition which the Tonga people made againft 
 them lately, under, the command of Toogahowe, Filatonga, and 
 Cumma\ie, they completj^ly routed and brought them into fubjediion, 
 fo that they now pay tribuire to Tongataboo on certain occafions, the 
 iame as the other iflands, of which we faw an inftancc at the death 
 ofMoomooe. Tonsrataboo i^ divided into three large dillric^s, viz, 
 Aheefo, at the north- wefl end, over Avhich Dugonagabcola reigns with 
 abfolute fway. Mooa, the middle diftrift, is under the fiime fubjec- 
 tion to Futtafaihe ; and Vaharlo has the fame power over Ahogc^ 
 iltuate at the fouth-eall part, each claiming a right of difpofalover the 
 lives aPxd property of his own fubjefts, which we have feen exercifed 
 moftMefpotically. Tliefe dillrifts are fubdivided into many fmaller 
 ones, which have their refpe<5live chiefs prefiding over them, and ex- 
 erciie the lame authority as the fuperior chiefs, to whom they are 
 nevcrthelefs, in Ipme cafes, accountable for their conduc5l ; fo that the 
 whole refembles the ancient feudal f}ftem of our ancellors. The go- 
 vernment fcems to have been formerly more in the hands of the Fut- 
 tataihes than at prcfent. Upon the death of the late Poulaho, father 
 of the prefent Futtafaihe, Duatonga being then a minor, the intolerant 
 ambition of his widow, Mahoofe, of the Toubou (or rather Doubou) 
 family, led her to attempt extending her power in ibme particulars 
 further than any of her predeceflbrs had done. This was tamely fub- 
 mitted to by all the other chiefs, except Feenou Toogahowe, now 
 Dugonagaboola, fon of Moomooe, and nephew of Feenou, the cele- 
 brated friend of Cook : he at that time reigned over E5oa, and rejecting
 
 270 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179 
 
 *7 
 / • 
 
 her propofals, declared war againft her, contrary to the rcmonftranccs ■ 
 of all his friends ; he however fucceeded, drove her entirely from this 
 ifland to Vavao, whither he alfo followed, and having reduced her to 
 fubmiffion, left her there, where flie ftill remains in a ftate of exile. 
 
 The people fully anfwer to the mcft favourable rcprcfentations the 
 world has ever received of them ; for fiirely no appellation was ever 
 better applied than that given to them by our countrymen, of which 
 they feem very proud, fmce we made thern acquainted with it, and 
 very ftudious to render themfelves more defcrving of it. They poffefs 
 many excellent qualities, which, were they enlightened with the 
 knowledge of the gofpel, would render them the moft amiable 
 people on earth ; for inftancc, their bounty and liberality to ftrangcrs 
 is very great, and their generofity to one anotherunequallcd. It is no 
 uncommon thing for them to complain they are dying of hunger, and, 
 as foon as they receive a morfel, to divide it among as many as arc 
 prefent, the firft receiver generally leaving himfelf the fmallcll fliare, 
 and often none at all. When they kill a hog, or make any mefs for 
 themfelves, there is always a portion fent to their friends, who return 
 the favour as foon as their clrcumftances will admit; which keeps up 
 a conftant friendly communication among them, and which we hare 
 .ne\"er fccn interrupted by any quarrtl, dijring a {lay of more than four 
 months. 
 
 Their honcfty to one another feems xuiimpcachable, though we have 
 :no reafon to think the accounts of their diflionefty to ftrangcrs exag- 
 gerated. The murder of children, and other horrid practices, ^^'hich 
 prevail among the Otaheitcans, are unheard of here. Their children 
 are much indulged, and old age honoured and revered. Female chaf- 
 'tity is not much efteemed among the lower orders, it being a com- 
 mon pra<5licc with the chiefs, in our vifits to them, to offer fome of 
 their females to fleep with us ; the pradices of our abandoned coun- 
 •,tr}'men making them believe this a favour we could not well do 
 without. Our firft rcfufal feemed to excite a furprife, but has gcne- 
 'tally prevented a fccond temptation from the fame pcrfon. Unchaflity
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 271 
 
 among females of rank, and cfpecially after marriage, we have heard 
 is puniflicd with feverity ; however, wc have not as yet known an 
 inllance. 
 
 Their marriages are attended with very httle ceremony ; the only 
 one wc have fcen was that of Vaarjce, with whom brothers Bo"wcll and 
 Harper have been fome time rcfidcnt. This was conduclcd in the fol- 
 lowing manner : A yoimg female having attracflcd his attention, he 
 firft informed his mother that he wilhed to add her to the number of 
 his wives. She immediately communicated this to the damfcl's fa- 
 ther, and the propofiil meeting his approbation, he clothed her in a 
 new garment, and with attendants, and fueh a quantity of baked hogs, 
 yams, yava root, &c. as he could afford, flie was fcnt to her intended 
 fpoufe, who being apprifcd of her coming, feated himfclf in his houfc-, 
 and received her in the fame manner, and with as little emotion, as 
 he would have done any other vifitor : fcafiiing on the provifions, and 
 a good draught of yava, concluded the whole, and the bride was at 
 liberty either to return to her father till again fcnt for, or take up her 
 refidencc with her, hufband, which, in this inflance, flie preferred. 
 Polygamy is in common pradlice among the chiefs, each of \\honi 
 takes fs many wives as he pleafes ; but they arc entire llrangers to do- 
 mellic broils, which may, in a great degree, be owing to the abfolutc 
 power each man has over his own family, every woman being fo miich 
 at her hufband's. difpofal, as renders her liable to be difcarded on the 
 fmalleft difpleafure. 
 
 Their deities arc numerous ; and though we have hitherto been able 
 to fay but little to them on this fubjcc'l, we have reafon to think their 
 prejudices are ftrong. Every diftridl has it^i own dcit}- ; and each 
 family ot note has one, whom they confider as their peculiar patron, 
 Talliataboo is the god of Aheefo, which being at prcfent the moft 
 powerful, he is accounted a great warrior. Futtafaihe prefides over 
 Mooa and Doobludha, Cartow- over the diihicfh of Aho^e ; each of 
 which deities are on certain occafions reprelented by the feveral chiefs 
 of thofc diftrids ; fo that wc fmd their natchcs and other annual exhi--
 
 272 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797, 
 
 bitions are not mere j:iubllc amufements, but religious obicrvanccs, 
 whereon they think the U\cs and health of their chiefs, for whom they 
 have great aiFecflion, entirely depend ; as likcwife the profperity of the 
 country in general : expe6ling the fucceeding crop will be in propor- 
 tion to the offerings made at thcfe times. They haYC two natches in 
 the year, one ^vhen their yams arc fct, to procure the favour of Fut- 
 tafaihe ; and the other when they gather tliem in, expreffive' of their 
 gratitude. The winds they fuppofe to be under the control of a fc- ■ 
 male, called Calla Filatonga, who, they fay, is very powerful, but is 
 little regarded by them, and is therefore fomctimes provoked to blow 
 down their cocoa-nut, plalntain, bread-fruit, and other trees, and com- 
 mits fuch ravages as oblige them to bring offerings of hogs, yams, and 
 ka\'a, in the moll humble and fubmiffne manner, to a houfe lacrcd 
 to her, where a perfon is appointed to perfonate herion the occafion, 
 imd receive the offering that is made. Theje llorms being very un- 
 frequent, and generally over before appeafnig meafures are taken, the . 
 reprefentativc is in little danger of being deteCled of falfehood by re- 
 turning a favourable anfwcr. This office of pcrfonator is only tem- 
 porary, being always chofen for the occaiion. 
 
 We have fcen no perfon among them that fecms more religious 
 than another, or airy thing that could lead us to fuppofe there is any 
 fuch character as a prieft among them. In all the offerings they make, 
 each man kills and prefents his own iacrlfice. Their frequent earth- 
 quakes they account for by fuppofing the Ifland refts upon the flioul- 
 ders of a A"cry powerful deity called Mowee, who has fupported it for 
 fuch a length ot time as exceeds their conceptions. This hea\y burden 
 often exhaufts his patience, and then he endeavours, but in vain, to 
 fliake it off; which, however, ne\er Jiiils to excite a horrid outcry 
 over the \vhole country, that lafts for fomc time after the fliock is 
 over: and we have fomctimes fcen them endeavour to quell his dif- 
 content, and reduce him to good behaviour, by beating the ground 
 with large ftlcks. Tongaloer, the god o{ the iky, and Fcnoulonga, 
 of the rain, they fuppofe to be males ; bcfides thcfe, they have a great
 
 Skpt.] to Tllli SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS* 273 
 
 many others of both fcxc.s, whofc names wc c;innot enumerate, over 
 earth, fca, and flty, each ading in their proper fphcrc, and fomcthiies 
 countcrafting one another, accordhig as intcrefl or inclination leads 
 them. They alfo acknov/ledge the exiftencc of a great number of 
 Ih-angc gods, calling them by the general name of Fyga, among whom 
 they rank ours as the greateft; and, when they think it will anfwer 
 their purpofe, they will readily acknowledge him as far wifer, and in 
 every rcfpcA better than theirs, having taught us to make fo much 
 better fliips, tools, cloth, &c. than they hare ever been able to do. 
 Refides thefe, they imagine every individual to be under the power 
 and control of a fpirit peculiar to himfclf, which they call odooa, who 
 interefhs himfelf in all their concerns, but, like CallaFilatonga, is littb 
 regarded till angry, when they think he infiidls upon them all the 
 deadly diforders to which they are fubjeft ; and then, to appeafe him, 
 the relations and other connexions of the affliiled perfon, efpccially if 
 he be a chief, run into all the inhuman pradices of cutting off their little 
 fingers, beating their faces, and tabooing themfclves from certain kinds 
 of food. Human facrlfices feem little in prad;icc : the only vidims to 
 fupcrftitlon which we have lecn are already mentioned in the cafe of 
 Moomdoe ; though, at our arrival. Ambler informed us, that when a 
 great chief lay fick they often ftrangled their women, to the number 
 of three or four at a time. When the odooa is Inexorable, the death 
 of the perfon is inevitable and Ture, and the furviving friends feera for 
 a fhort time inconfolablc ; but their grief is foon changed into the 
 oppofite extreme, and they run into as great extravagances in their 
 feafts as when the forrowful paffions prevailed they inflicted on tliem-' 
 felves fufferings. 
 
 They believe the immortality of the foul, w hich at death, they fay. 
 Is immediately conveyed in a very large faft-flxiliug canoe to a diftant 
 country, called Doobludha, which they defcribe as refembling the 
 Mahometan paradife. They call the god of this region of pleafurc 
 Higgolayo, and efteem him as the greateft and moil powerful of all, 
 the reft being no better than fervants to him. This doftrine, how- 
 
 N N
 
 274 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE" [1797- 
 
 ever, is wholly confined to the chiefs, for the tooas (or lower order) 
 can give no account whatever; as they reckon the enjoyments of 
 Doobludha above their capacity, fo they feem never to think of what 
 may become, of them after they hav6 fervcd the purpofes of this life. 
 We have not been able to learn -what ideas they form of the origin of 
 their exiftence, or any other parts of the creation ; when fpoken to 
 on thefe fiibjeds they fcem quite loft ; this may, however, be owing 
 to the inaccuracy of our expreffions, arifmg from an imperfeiH: know- 
 ledge of the language, which has hitherto prevented us from oppofing 
 any of thofe grofs abfurdities. But we look forward to that happy day 
 when the glorious fun of righteoufnefs will arife, and turn this flaadow 
 of death into the morning. 
 
 The produce of this ifland is already fo well defcribed, that it feems 
 
 unneceflary to fay any thing of it here. We have been able to add 
 
 very little to it. Our feeds, which have been fown in different parts, 
 
 bid fair to do well : this induces us to think any kind of European 
 
 feeds vvould thrive here, were it not for the rats, which deftroy them 
 
 as they appear ahovt ground. Rats, with hogs, dogs, and guanoes, 
 
 were the^only quadrupeds we found here. The cattle left by Captain 
 
 Cook have been all deftroyed fome years ago : the horfe and mare 
 
 having been firft gored by the bull, gave the natives an idea of his 
 
 furious temper, and put them in terror for themfelves; therefore, to 
 
 prcven,t.any bad accident taking place, they deftroyed him, with the 
 
 cow and three young ones, w^hich, they informed us, were all they 
 
 had produced, except one young bull which had been previoufly taken 
 
 to Feejee. Captain Wilfon, in his fecond vifit, has left us eight goats, 
 
 three cats, and an Englifh dog, of which the natives are ver)' fond, and 
 
 which we hope will be ufeful in their propier places. The death of a 
 
 ram at Otaheitc prevented us from receiving any flieep, which we 
 
 cftcem a great lofs, as there is abundance of excellent food for thofe 
 
 ufeful animals in the moft neglefted parts of this ifland, and they 
 
 might in time prove a great advantage to the natives, not only by fup- 
 
 plying their deficiency of food, from which many of them fuffcr much
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 2/:^ 
 
 r 
 
 at prcl'c^it, but byk'^^^i^'^g tlicm iiit(^ lijibits of iaduflry, to wliicli they 
 arc lliiingers ; for though they arc more Induftrious tlian moil of their 
 neighbours fcuttcrcd about this fca, far the greater part of their time 
 is fpcnt in idlenefs. Tliis cpiijedure. receives much flrcngth from the 
 (^araeft defirc. they cxprcfs forpiji; woollen -clothef^j efpccially blankets ; 
 which induces.,us to th^nl<,,,if they had the materials, and the leaft hint 
 .how to make ufe of them, they would foon endeavour to manufadlure 
 them thcmfelvcs. , , , 
 
 The foil is every where prolific, and confills of 9. fine rich mould, 
 upon an average about fourteen or fifteen inches deep, free from floues, 
 except near the beach, where coral, rocks, appear above the furt'ace. 
 Beneath this mould is a red loam four or five inches thick ; next is a 
 very flrong blue clay in fmall quantities ; and In fome places has been 
 found a black earth, which emits a very fragrant irnell refembling ber- 
 gamot, but it foon evaporates when expofc'd to tlie air. The air is 
 pure and wholefomc, much fliarpcr in the winter than we expedled 
 to have found It, efpccially when the wind is from the fouthward; 
 but for want of a thermometer, which happened to be broken, we 
 have never been able to afcertain its true ftatc. 
 
 But we muft conclude our prcfent account, hoping our next will 
 contain fomething more intercfling and encouraging to our dear friends, 
 whofc prayers we earneflly entreat in our behalf; for furely never men 
 in the world flood more In need of their affiflance in this ref])edl than 
 we do. Our work is great, our flrcngth is fmall, very weaknefs itfelf ; 
 our enemies are crafty and powerful, but none we find fo dangerous as 
 thofe of our ovsn houfc, thofe evil hearts of unbelief that are always 
 ready to draw us from the God of our itrength, who is the rock of our 
 falvatlon. But if God be for us, who can be agalnfl us ? He bids u? 
 fear not : and we have not only the affurancc of his word, but nKo 
 the teflimony of his providence that he is with us, and will never lea\-i.? 
 us nor forfake us. Well then may we go on in divine flrcngth, re- 
 joicing in the profpcds of greater tribulations than we have hitherto 
 experienced, or at prcfent have In view; trufling him thit in every 
 
 >' X 2
 
 276 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 confli(fl which we may be called on to fuftain under the banner of the 
 glorious Captain of our falvation, mc fliall grow llronger and ftronger, 
 and at length be brought off the field more than conquerors through 
 Him who hath loved us, and given himfclf for us. 
 
 The Duff is now unmooring. We feel all the anguifh that Is con- 
 fcquent upon a feparation of friends who are bound together by iuch 
 endearing ties as Ihall endure when thofe of nature fliall be for ever 
 diffoh cd. Befides our dear captain, we cannot but efteem many of 
 the officers and crew as children of the fame family with ourfclves : 
 all of whom, ourfelves, and all our concerns, both for time and eter- 
 nity, wc defire to refign to the fovereign dilpofal of our gracious hea- 
 venly Father, and to the word of his grace, which is able to keep us 
 from falling, and give us all an inheritance among them that are fanc- 
 tified through faith which is in Jefus Chrlft. Farewell. May grace, 
 mercy, and peace be multiplied to all who love our Lord Jefus Chrift 
 in fmcerity, and are fecking the advancement of his kingdom and 
 glory ! Amen. 
 
 Tongataioo Roads, Sept. GiJi, 17Q7.
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 277 
 
 CHAPTER XVir. 
 
 TranfaiJ'ions at Totiga/aboo during the Ship's Stay. 
 
 THUS far I have written from the brethren's journal, judging that, 
 though repetitions would unavoidably occur by this plan, the 
 incidents related as they happened would enable thofe interefted to 
 form a better idea both of the natives and the real fituation of the 
 miffionaries, than by any other method I was able to purfue ; for 
 perhaps from things which I might have paffcd over, fome Ikilfiil 
 friend would draw ufeful and intcrelling inferences. 
 
 And as I have brought it up to the day we left thofe dear fervants 
 of our blefled Lord, there remains but little to be faid concerning what 
 pafled at the fliip ; as during this ftay, which was twenty days, the 
 whole was fpent in one continued intercourfe of friendlhip and fervice 
 between us and the natives : every day we were vifited by fome or 
 other of them ; they laid us in a very large ftore of fine yams, and as 
 many hogs as we were willing to accept ; for the ftock of thefe which 
 we had brought from Otaheite was ftill fufficient to take to fea. Some 
 boars and fows of the larger fize we exchanged with them for others, 
 and had the fatisfadion to hear that a fow thus exchanged to Vaarjee, 
 Bowell and Harper's chief, had a few days after farrowed nine pigs. 
 For articles of iron they will venture any thing. On our firfl arrival 
 an iron hoop was ftolcn off the windlafs end ; but as no perfon was 
 fuffered to come on board till we got it again, it was returned next 
 day by Futtafaihe. Several other things of lefs confequcncc were 
 ftolcn, but as the captain did not like to break the harmony which 
 fubfirted for tlie fake of them, they were never recovered. ^^Jnong 
 other things, the cook's axe was ftolcn ; and to give our friends an 
 idea of the fmall value of a few glittering guineas, in the eyes of thele
 
 278 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 people, when put in competition with a ufeful iron tool, the captain 
 gave the cook ten new guineas to purchafe another axe from the na- 
 tives ; but his endeavours to make fuch a purchalc were vain, they 
 only laughed at him for his offer. Befidcs iron, our cloth and fmall 
 blue and green beads were in high eftimation among them ; and fomc 
 of them even defired us to bring fuch on our next vifit. They alfo 
 valued nails, efpecially of the larger fort. But it may be obfervcd that 
 tlicy are fo fcrupulous in dealing, that they generally ftand for the full 
 value of c^■ery thing. 
 
 The captain was never on fliorc,-and each of us was only permitted 
 one day at Mooa, for pleafure. As we refufed to have any diverfions 
 acted for our entertainment, left the idea of pleafmg might lead them 
 to exceifes inexcufable on our part, none of their cuftoms of this nature 
 were witncffed by us, but 1 fuppofc them to be fully defcribed by 
 Captain Cook, The day before we failed I went to Mooa in the pin- 
 nace, accompanied by Mr. Falconer, Mr. Robfon, and my brother 
 Jiimes Wilfon. Several hundreds of the natives lined the fhore, part 
 of them entreating us to go firft to Futtafaihe, and the other part for 
 us to vifit Dugonagaboola firft. As I had previoufly promifed the for- 
 mer, we repaired to him, and were rccel^'cd with great ceremony ; 
 and when we had fpent fome time \\ ith him we vifited the other 
 chief, whom we found near the beach, feated with about an hundred 
 others round a bowl of kava, part of which they offered to us ; but thc' 
 gee root only fuited our tafte. This, being what they conclude their 
 morning's repaft with, is fwcet as fugar-cane, and grccitly rcfembles 
 it, being only a little more pafty. Both chiefs treated us well ; Futta- 
 faihe roafted a large hog for ovir dinner, after which he accompanied 
 us to the fiatookas of his anccftors : they lie ranged in a line eaftvvard 
 from his houfe, among a grove of trees, and are many in number, and 
 of. different conftru6lions : Ibme, in a fquare form, were not in the 
 leaft raifed above the level of the common grovnid ; a row of large 
 ftoncs formed the fides, and at each corner two high ftoncs were placed 
 upright at right angles to each other, and in a line with their rcfpcc-
 
 "i-^iiV
 
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 »ayfjiiJ»f^t)<J^ 
 
 Iff »#„„„„, 

 
 TO TI!!': SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 
 
 279 1 
 
 
 Top. 
 
 
 
 
 5i fcc-t. 
 
 - 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 G 
 
 
 3^ 
 
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 5 
 
 
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 Profile of the Steps. 
 
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 Sr.PT.] 
 
 tive fides : others wore fuch as the brethren defcrlbe that of Moomooe 
 to be : and a thh-d f )rt were built fquare like the firft ; the largeft of 
 ■which was at the bafe one hundred and fifty-fix feet by one hundred 
 and forty ; it had four fteps 
 from the bottom to the top, 
 that run quite roimd the pile : 
 one ftone compofed the height 
 of each ftcp, a part of it being 
 funk in the ground ; and fomc 
 of thefe ftones in the wall ot 
 the lower arc immenfely large; 
 one, which I meafured, was 
 twenty- four feet by twelve, 
 andtwo feet thick; thefe Futta- 
 faihe informed us were brought 
 in double canoes from the ifland of Lefooga. They are coral ftonc,- 
 and are hewn into a tolerably good fliapc, both with refped. to the 
 flraightnefs of their fides and the flatncfs of their furfaccs. They arc ■ 
 now i'o hardened by the -weather, that the' great difficulty we had in 
 breaking a fpecimen of one corner niadc it not eafy to conjecture how 
 the labour a{ hewing them at firft had been cfFc6ted : as, by the marks 
 of 'anticpity which fome of them bear, they muft have been built long . 
 before Tafman Ihe wed the natives aniron tool. Befides the trees which . 
 grow on the top and fides of moft'of them, there are the ctooa, and a 
 variety of other trees about them ; and thefe, together with the thou- 
 fands of bats which hang on their branches,, all contribute to the awful 
 folemnity. of thofc fepuJchral manfioiis of the ancient chiefs. . On our 
 way back Futtafaihe told us that all tht fiatookas we had feen were 
 built by his anceftors, who alfo lay interred in them ; and as there ap- 
 peared no reafon to doubt the truth of this, it proves that a fupreme 
 power in the government of the ifland mufl for many generations have 
 been in the family of the Futtafaihes : for though there were many 
 fiatookas in the ifland, the brethren, who had Iccn moft of them, faid •
 
 ■280 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [179;. 
 
 they Avcre not to be compared to thefc for magnitude, cither in the 
 pile or the flones which compofe them. 
 
 One of his wives was lying-in at this time, anci we were conducted 
 to the apartment where flie was : it was extremely neat, and the floors 
 were covered with mats. Both herfclf and the child had their fkins 
 coloured with turmeric, which gave them a glittering appearance, and 
 they faid this was their cuftom with women in childbed. She had 
 ieveral female attendants ; and though Futtafaihe has many other 
 children, all the people feemed elate and glad on this occafion. During 
 our ftay we vifited feveral chiefs of both fexes, and received prefents 
 from each of them. As the evening approached we took our leave, 
 and returned to the fliip. 
 
 Mooa is a beautiful place, cfpecially where Futtafaihe's houlc flands. 
 Proceeding from the lagoon about a quarter of a mile through fenced 
 lanes, a fpacious Iquare green about half a furlong wide opens itfelf ; 
 at the farther end of which the dwelling flands : on the fame green, 
 which is as fmooth as if rolled, a few large fpreading trees grow in an 
 irregular difpofition, which add much beauty to the fcene. On the 
 cafl fide is a neat fence enclofing the long grove where the fiatookas 
 ftand ; on the wefl are the dwellings of different chiefs in their enclo- 
 furcs ; and along the north or lower fide of the fquare, the great road 
 runs from one dnd of the ifland to the other : this road is in general 
 about fix or feven yards wide, but eaflward from the green, and for 
 half a mile, it is not lefs than fixty yards wide. In this part there is 
 a range of trees as large and fpreading as the largefl: Englifli oaks ; and 
 as their branches meet at the top, and quite exclude the fun's rays, a 
 pleafant walk is afforded by their Ihade. Clofe by thefe, brothers Bu- 
 chanan and Gaulton are fituated.
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 2Si 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Paffligefrom Toiigotahoo to China. 
 
 ON Thurfday morning, the 7th of September, we weighed, and 
 fliiUng from Tongataboo by the northern puflVgc, palfed clofe by 
 the fmall iflands of Honga Harpy and Honga Tonga ; thele are both 
 moderately high, and appear fertile : at four P. M. they bore E. S. E. 
 twenty-two miles diftant. After which we ftcered N. W. per compafs 
 one hundred and twcnty-fix miles, and weft thirty-two miles. Ob- 
 ferved at noon on the 8th in 18" 43' S. and fuppofcd that a current 
 was fetting us to the weftward. From noon till half paft five P. M. 
 we ftcered W. by S. thirty-nine miles ; then hove to for two iflands, 
 the fouthcrnmoft of which bore S. W. | S. and the northernmoft W. 
 by N. diftance from the latter feven leagues. The former had a re- 
 markable flat top, on which account we called it. Tabic ifland. A little 
 before we hove to, the time-keeper gave the longitude of the fliip 
 182° 5^ E. Before dark wc could fee other iflands further to the 
 weftward, and fuppofed them either the fame, or very near to thofc. 
 Captain Bligh firft fell in with after leaving Tofoa in the launch. 
 
 We had brifli gales and a hollow fea all the night ; about fix hours 
 we lay with t^.e fliip's head to the northward, then wore to the fouth- 
 ward till daylight ; in which laft fpace of time wc muft have pafled 
 clofe to a dangerous reef, named in the chart Providence reef; but as 
 nothing of this kind was in fight before dark, we had no apprchenfion 
 of reefs lying in our w\iy ; and even w hen the day broke we thought 
 ■we had a clevr fea, and at fix o'clock bore away, and run W. N. W. 
 about half an hour, when wc difcovered feveral iflands befides thofe wc 
 had fecn on the preceding evening ; and perceived that extenfive reefs 
 furrounded every one of them. In viewing our fituation from aloft it 
 
 o o
 
 (282 FIR.ST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [17 Qf. 
 
 appeared very critical, and occafioncd the ifland ahead to be called Dan- 
 ger illand. A little from this illand S. E. lay three or four fmall iflcts,. 
 and a coral reef extended about three or four miles S. E. from them. 
 On our ftarboard quarter another reef trended to the 'N. E. further 
 than we could fee, as the weather was hazy. Thus we were running 
 directly for Danger ifland, and leaving thofe extenfive reefs upon each 
 quarter, when the fight of many more iflands gave us reafon to fuppofe 
 that to attempt a paffage through them would be hazardous, if not 
 imprafticable. We hauled, therefore, our wind, fet what fail the 
 fhip could bear, and tried to work out by the way we came in. The 
 gals; increafing, and the fca running very high, we had little hopes id. 
 firft of gaining ground, or that the fhip would ftay in fo heavy a fen*. 
 However, flic never miffed ftays but once ; the tide likewife appeared 
 to be in our favour; for, after making a few tacks, at half paft nine 
 A. M. we paffcd to windward of the S. E. reef, and flood towards 
 Table ifland. As we ran along we faw a large fpace to leeward free 
 from reefs, which almofi: tempted us to bear away ; but proceeding 
 further, the iflands to the S. W. appeared connected by them. There^ 
 fore we determined to get to the north by the eaft of them ; though 
 there is no doubt but, in fine weather, a paffage might be found ais 
 well' here as amonsz; thoic through which we afterwards had to thread 
 the needle. All this day and the night was fpent in plying to wind- 
 ward. On the morning of the loth paffed Providence reef, which is 
 a fmall fpot, and bears call: from the fouth end of Danger ifland. Wc 
 afterwards paffed the north- eaffc reef, where once more we appeared to 
 have a clear fea. Table and Danger Iflands, of which we had the 
 ncarefl view, wore an afped: of fertility, having the loftieft hills co- 
 vered with trees to their fummits. Obfervcd at noon in latitude 1 8-*^ 
 23^ S. 
 
 On the 12th at noon we were in latitude lO° 42' S. and longitude 
 181" ]3''E. ; half an hour afterwards faw land bearing fouth, for 
 which wc hauled up, wifliing to have Ibme intercourfc with the na- 
 tives. As we ran to the fouth w c had a reef on the weather flde juft
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 263 
 
 in figHt from the deck, and a low Ifland on our Ice beam bearing \V. 
 by N. The wind being E. S. E. we juft weathered a reef lying eaft- 
 ward from a (mall but high ifland: and Handing a little farther, 
 tacked flaip clofc to the north-ealt reefs of what we called Sir Charle.? 
 Middlcton's ifland, and chofe the ground between this and the before- 
 mentioned reef to fpend the night in, as we had the bearings of feverai 
 iflands whereby to direcfi: us clear of the furrounding danger. 
 
 At daybreak on the 13 th we bore away, and ran along the north fide 
 of Sir Charles Middlcton's ifland. There appeared no opening through 
 the reef, though one might perhaps be found fomewhere about the 
 ifland, if diligently fought for; but on this fide there is none. As wc 
 ran to the windward, compafs bearings were taken of the iflands and 
 reefs, to afcertain their relative fituations; and to the chart conf.lruiR:ed 
 from thefc, with the help of the time-keeper and latitude, we mult 
 refer thofe who may either have to fail this way, or who would im- 
 prove the geography of this part of the globe. Leaving Middlcton's 
 ifland, we fteercd weft per compafs four or five leagues, and pafled 
 clofe by what we called Direction ifland. There were natives on the- 
 beach with fpears in their hands; and the ifland, which was mode- 
 rately high, feemed to abound in the common produce ; but, like thofe 
 we had already fcen, was quite furrounded by a reef. Therefore failing 
 thence W. N. W. about fix leagues further, we came near to the eaft 
 end of another pretty large ifland, called Rofs's ifland, where we faw 
 vafl numbers of natives alTembled upon the beach, and fmoke among 
 the trees ; but they alfo were quite fecure, being, like their neighbours, 
 llrongly fortified with a furrounding reef. Juft off here we obferved, 
 latitude 16" 48'' S. and longitude 180*^ 2<y per chronometer. Many 
 larger iflands vscre in fight to leeward, which, from examination of 
 Bligh's narrative, we fuppoled to lie N. E. from the large iflands, whith 
 he pafled when the canoes chafed him. 
 
 From the malt-head anc obferved a reef trending to the N. E. to 
 weather which we hauled our wind to the northward ; and pafling it, 
 ftood towards fomc linall iflands, which we called the Cluftcrs. Ai 
 
 002
 
 284 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 night approached, being iurrounded with reefs and iflands on all fides» 
 we put the Iliip under an eafy fail,^ and chofe the moft clear fpace to 
 make fliort tacks in, till next morning. At feven o'clock a low ifland 
 to windvvard bore E. by N. and the highefl of the Clufters bore 
 S. S. W. ; the wind "was eaflerly, and the fea as fmooth as a river. At 
 the above time we ftood to the S^ E; by S. under the topfails ; and at 
 nine o'clock, no danger appearing, we thought ourfelvcs fafc ; but we 
 were prefcntly alarmed by the lliip flriking upon a coral reef, upon 
 which the fea hardly broke, to give the leaft warning. All hands were 
 upon deck in an infl:ant, and, as fhe ftuck faft, became under great 
 apprehenfions of being fliipwrecked ; a misfortune which prefcnted it- 
 felf with a thoufand frightful ideas. Wc knew that the Fcejees were 
 cannibals of a fierce difpofition, and who had never had the leaft in- 
 tercourfe with any voyagers ; confequently we could expcd: no favour 
 from fuch. Imagination, quick and fertile on fuch occafions, figured 
 them dancing round us, while we were roafted on large fires. How- 
 ever, it was no time to indulge thoughts of this kind, but to try what 
 could be done to fave the fliip. Judging it to be a weather reef we 
 were on, the moment fhe ftruck the fails were hove aback, and in 
 about five or fix minutes we beheld with joy that fhe came aflem, 
 and fhortly after was quite afloat ; when we were again delivered from 
 our fears, and found the fliip, which had kept upriglit the whole time, 
 fecmed to have received no injury. It was not poflible to ascertain 
 at fea what damage had been fuftained, as llie made no water;' biit on 
 her coming into dock, we difcovered how very w^onderfully wc had 
 been preferved. The coral rock on which we ftruck was providen- 
 tially dircded cxadly againft one of the timbers. The violence of the 
 blow had beat in the copper, deeply wounded the plank, and beat it 
 to fhivers. Had the Itroke been between the ribs of the fnip, it mufi: 
 have gone through, and wc had probably never returned to adore the 
 Author of our mercies. Thus the 2;racious Lord, who flill e;uarded 
 us with a fhcphcrd's care, was pleafed to fliew us the infufficiency of 
 human prudence ; and that, except wc arc kept by himlclf, " the
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 2S5 
 
 " watchman wakcth but in vain." O that he would give us hearts of 
 gratitude and thankfuhiefs, in fomc meafurc proportioned to his dailj 
 mercies extended to us his unworthy creatures ! 
 
 When the day fhewcd us the dangers which lay hid on every fide, 
 it appeared wonderful how we had efcaped fo well, and made us very 
 dcfirous to get clear of them as fall as poffible. With this view wc 
 fleered N.N.W. betwixt feveral fmall reefs, not larger in circumference 
 than the fliip, and with fcarcc a wafla of the fea upon them. They 
 feemed to extend on both fides of us, as far as we could fee. When 
 we had paffed thefe, and began to bring the illands aftern, wc thought 
 ourfelves quite clear, and were regretting that we could have no in- 
 tercourfe with the inhabitants ; who, we had no doubt, would have 
 been willing to barter with us, had we found fafe anchorage for the 
 fliip ; for with thcfc people the Friendly iflandcrs carry on a trade with 
 the articles they got from us. At nine A. M. another illaud came in 
 fight to the N.W. for which we fhaped our courfe, to try if anchorage 
 could be found near it ; and the weather fide appearing at our ap- 
 proach to be clear of reefs, it gave us hopes that the lee fide would be 
 the fame ; but it proved otherwife. At noon the body of the ifland 
 bore, fouth, dillant one mile, and our latitude by obfervation 15° 41' S. 
 longitude per chronometer 180" 2:'/ E. Along this N. fide, there 
 being no reef, the fea broke violently againfl the cliffs, which are high, 
 and from the face of them huge fragments have fallen off, and lie 
 fcattered at their bafe. Thefe cliffs, efpecially towards the north-wefl. 
 end, liave a lefs fertile appearance than thofe we had already paffed ; 
 but towards the eafl end the ifland wears a better afpedl ; and at thiff 
 part there were natives and houfes upon the top of the hill. Probably 
 there is low ground on the fbuth-wcll fide, where we intended to an- 
 chor ; but coming to the nortlx- weft point, we iaw a flioal clofe to us, 
 and a large flat ran S,W. off the ifland : upon which we hauled our 
 wind ; and as this was the laft we faw of this dangerous group, it re- 
 ceived the name of Farewell ifland. 
 
 Thefe are probably the fame as Tafman got entangled among, and.
 
 286 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE ^ [1797. 
 
 which he calls Prince William's iflands : however, it may be prcfumcd 
 that but part of them have been yet feen by Europeans, as it was evi- 
 dent that many large iflands lay to the S. W. the neareft of which we 
 could but faintly diftinguifli, and fome were at a dirtance from the 
 tacks of Captain Bligh in the launch of the Bounty, and afterwards in 
 the Providence. 
 
 They doubtlefs are connefled with thofe which the people at Ton- 
 gataboo call the Feejees, as they lie in the dire61;ion pointed out by 
 them. In general they are high, and all we could dillinftly fee ap- 
 peared fertile : t-hc loftiell; hills were woody to their fummits, and on 
 the top of feveral was abundance of cocoa-nut trees, which on fbmc 
 iflands thrive only on the low^ ground ; nor is it here as at Otahcite, 
 where the middle region is commonly nothing but fun-burnt grafs ; 
 for, from the beach to the top of the hills is one continued grove of 
 trees, and many of them have fruitful fkirts of low land. The valleys 
 of Middleton's ifland appeared delightfully plcalant, and mufl: abound 
 in all the fruits and roots common to thcfe parts of the world. In 
 fome places we faw fpots of cultivated ground, probably of kava. 
 
 Coral reefs furround every ifland, and thofe which lie near each 
 other are conne6ted by them. Though there appears to us to be no 
 openings through thefe reefs to the refpcdi\e iflands they enclofe, yet 
 we cannot venture to fay that there is no fuch thing, but think it 
 highly probable that by a more diligent fearch both openings and an- 
 chorage might be found. But as the captain propofed making fome 
 flay at the Pelew iflands, and had to reach China at a fpecified time, 
 we could not with propriety delay longer here in fearch of an uncer- 
 tainty. Where we pafled clofe we faw many inhabitants, and have 
 no doubt but that they are all well peopled ; and they mufl; be an im- 
 proved people in the favage flate, for the natives of the Friendly 
 Iflands, who are unwilling to give place to any, acknowledge that the 
 Feejees excel them in many ingenious works ; that they poflcfs larger 
 canoes, and are a brave, fighting people ; but abhor them for their de- 
 ttilable pradlicc of eating their unfortunate prifoners. They ufe bows
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 287 
 
 and arrows in war ; and from tlic blackncfs of their complexion, and 
 the difference of their language and manners, they arc evidently a 
 diftind race from the natives of thofc groups where miirions are now 
 cftabliflaed. 
 
 1 0th. We obfcrved at noon in latitude 13° 13' S. and at five P. M. 
 favv the ifland of Rotumiih, bearing N. W. by W. Tlic weather be- 
 ing at this time fqually, with rain, we hove to for the night. At 
 daylight next naorning we bore away, and at half pad eight o'clock 
 were oppofite the north-eail end, when feveral canoes came off, con- 
 taining from three to fix and feven perfbns each. At firft they were 
 fliy, and kept aloof; but prefcntly fome bolder than the reft ventured 
 alongfide, and one with a fowl in his hand, taking hold of a rope, 
 dropped himfelf into the water, and was hauled on board. He made 
 figns that he wanted an axe for the fowl, by which wc immediately 
 knew that there mufl have been friendly intercourfc between them 
 and Captain Edwards of the Pandora, who diicovered this ifland in 
 Augull 1791 ; but it is probable that they have been vifited by none 
 bcfides, as they now beheld us with much furprife and wonder. This 
 day happening to be Sunday, the rule we hud conllantly obfcrved 
 while in this fca prevented trade between us and thefe people. How- 
 ever, this man received an axe, a few fifli-hooks, and other things, 
 which made him leap for joy. Three others, encouraged by his good 
 fortune, ventured after him, and fared eqvially well ; and it appeared 
 that many more would ha\e come on board, had they an opportunity ; 
 for obferving that we ftcered rather from the ifland, they pointed to- 
 wards a bay, as if defirous we fhould come to anchor. As we ran 
 down the north fide there appeared a good bay near to the weft end, 
 where, if the anchorage be Mc, lliips may ride flieltered from all but 
 northerly winds ; and perhaps a fituation might be found to lie in the 
 fame bay flickered from thefe alfo. This bay lies to windward ot the 
 higheft bluff hill, on the weft end of the main ifland ; a high iflet lies 
 di redly north of this bluff hill, and they bear a. great rcfemblancc to 
 each other, being both fteepeft on the north fide. Wcftward of this
 
 283 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 laft lie three more fmall iflets, the largeft of which appeared to be 
 fplit in the middle, as if broken by an earthquake. 
 
 The main ifland far exceeds in populoufnefs and fertility all that wc 
 had fecn in this fea ; for in a fpace not more than a mile in length wc 
 counted about two hundred houfes next the beach, befides what the 
 trees probably concealed from our view ; this was at the eaft end, and 
 there was reafon to think almoft every part of it equally well inhabit- 
 ed. In the fhape and fize of their perfons we could diftinguifli no dif^ 
 ference between them and the Friendly iflanders, except that wc 
 thought them of a lighter colour, and fome difference in the tattooing, 
 having here the refemblance of birds and fifties, with circles and fpots 
 upon their arms and fliouldcrs : the latter are feemingly intended to 
 reprefcnt the heavenly bodies. Two or three of the women whom 
 wc' feiw were tattooed in this lafl way : at Tongataboo they keep the 
 upper parts clear of all tattooing. The women here wear their hair 
 long, have it dyed of a reddifli colour ; and with a pigment of the 
 fame, mixed with cocoa-nut oil, they rub their neck and breaft. The 
 men who were on board appeared to have much of the fhrewd, manly 
 fenfe of the above people, and many of their cufloms. One of them 
 made figns, that in cafes of mourning they cut their heads with fharks"* 
 teeth, beat their cheeks till they bled, and wounded themfelves with 
 fpears ; b\it that the women only cut off the little fingers, the men 
 being exempt from it ; whereas at Tongataboo there is hardly man or 
 woman but what has lofl; both. 
 
 Their fmgle canoes (for we faw no double ones) were nearly the 
 fame in all refped:s as at the Friendly iflands, being of the fame fliape, 
 fewcd together on the infidc, and decorated in the fame manner with 
 fliells ; but, being rather fhorter in proportion to their width, feemed 
 not fo neat and well finiftied. The only weapons we faw were fpears 
 curioufly carved, and pointed with the bone of the fling ray. The 
 natives cxprcfTcd great furprize and curiofity at the fight of our fhcep, 
 goats, and cats. Hogs and fowls, they faid, they had in great plenty, 
 which, added to the evidently fuperior fertility of the ifland, and the
 
 Sept.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 289 
 
 fceming cheerful and friendly difpofition of the natives, makes this, in 
 ouf opinion, the moft eligible place for fhips coming from the eafl- 
 ward, vpanting refrcfliments, to touch at : and with regard to milfion- 
 ary views, could one or two young men, fuch as Crook, be found wil- 
 ling to devote their lives to the inftrutlion of perhaps five or fix thou- 
 fand poor heathen, there can hardly be a place where they could fettle 
 with greater advantage, as there is food in abundance ; and the ifland 
 lying remote from others, can never be engaged in wars, except what 
 broils may happen among thcmfelves. Its latitude is 12" 31^ S. and 
 longitude 1^7'^ K.; its length, in an eaft and weft dircd;ion, is not 
 above four or five miles. 
 
 From Rotumiih \vc ftccrcd N. W. by W. to W. and W. by. S. for 
 eight days ; and as we hove to every night, we had rcafon to think 
 that no land liy within four or five leagvies on each fide of our track. 
 At eight A. M. on the liSth, v\e faw land from the maft-hcad bearing 
 N. W. by N. and immediately llcered for it. The weather being 
 gloomy, with drizzling rain, we had no obfervation for the latitude. 
 Ab6ut five o'clock in the evening, as we drew near to the land, we 
 found that it confifled of ten or eleven feparatc iflands, two or three 
 of which were of confiderable fize, and faw a canoe coming towards 
 us, in which were two men : they approached within hail, but would 
 come no nearer ; they flood up and brandlfhed their paddles, and ufing 
 many wild gcflures, hooped and hallooed ill a harfli tone, not fcem- 
 ingly as a menace or defiance, but the etFe<5l of furprife and a mixture 
 of other paflions at fo wonderful a fight, having, in all probability, 
 never beheld a fhip before. They had baikets of fruit in the canoe, 
 and to them they ffequently pointed, as if they wanted to barter them ; 
 but if a conjcAurc might be allowed, I fhould rather think they meant 
 them as offerings ; for if they really never did fee a fliip before, they 
 could know nothing of our articles, nor their ufc or value. However, 
 whatfoevcr they intended, fear kept them at a diftance, though we 
 ufed every method to allure them alongflde. Nine canoes more were 
 now^ coming off, but they alfo a(fled with the fame caution and fear 
 
 p p
 
 29® FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 as the firfl:, keeping all together aftern of the fliip. When we had got 
 pretty near to the ifland we tacked, and fliould have paflcd through 
 among them, had they not perceived their fituation, and paddled to 
 windward. After this they were making towards the largcft of the 
 iilands, when a hea\y fquall of wind and rain coming on, and obliging 
 lis to bear before it, wc were fo near running over ibme of them, that 
 the men in one fmall canoe jumped overboard and fwam to another. 
 When the fquall was over, we faw that they had all got near to the 
 fliore, and that the defcrted canoe was not far from us ; we therefore 
 flood clofe to her and picked her up, hoping to have an opportunity 
 of returning her the next day. 
 
 This canoe (and they all feemed to be alike) was about twelve or 
 fourteen feet long, and about fifteen inches broad, made of one tree, 
 . iliarpened at the ends, and a little ornamented on the upper part : the 
 inflrumcnt with which they had hollowed her had left marks as if 
 done with a gouge- 
 Having put the fliip under a fnug fail, we flood to the caflward all 
 the night, and at daybreak found we had drifted confiderably to the 
 fouthward ; but as we flill expedled to ha\c fbme intercourfe with the 
 natives, we fet fail, and plied to windward. About eleven A. M. we 
 were pretty near to the largefl ifland, when five canoes ventured off.; 
 but a6led with the fame caution as before, taking great care to keep 
 between us and the fhore, to which they paddled after about an hour's 
 ftay. Seeing them depart we flood clofe in with a reef which lies about 
 half a mile from the beach, and feems to extend fome diflance from 
 the wcfl end ; and probably the iflands are connedled by it. Where 
 wc were, we found feven fatlioms ; a flat coral bottom.. Finding 
 that their fears prevailed over their curiofity, and that we were likely 
 to have no intercourfe with tliem, we lowered the jolly-boat down, 
 and intended to tow the canoe clofe to the fhore, and there leave her 
 with a few of our articles in her. But obferving that the fhip could 
 not get near enough to aid the boat in cafe of an attack, this defign 
 was relinc^ulflicd, and we immediately bore away.
 
 Ski-t.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANi:)S. 2<jl 
 
 The Icirgcfl of this group wc named Difappointmcnt ifland, and 
 the whole duller Duff's Group : they arc about clc\'cn in number, 
 lying in a direction S. E. and N. W. fourteen or fifteen miles : in 
 the middle are two larger iflands about fix miles in circumference ; 
 betwixt thefc lall is a fmall iflet, and to the caftward are three iflcts, 
 two of which arc round and high, the other flat and longifli. On the 
 north-weft part of the group are five or fix more ; fome of them high. 
 At the eaft end of one is a remarkable rock in form of an obclifk. 
 The fmall iflands are apparently barren ; but the two largeft are en- 
 tirely covered with wood, among which were feveral cocoa-nut trees ; 
 but, on the whole, they had not the appearance of great fertility. 
 The natives appeared ftout and well made, with copper-coloured com- 
 plexions ; their houfcs are built clofe to each other, and not difpcrfed, 
 as wc had been accuftomed to fee them : a horde of their dwellings 
 was on the fouth-weft fide of Difappointmcnt ifland. The latitude of 
 the latter is g' 5 7' S. and longitude 167° E. 
 
 From Duff's Group we fteered W. by S. thirteen or fourteen, 
 leagues, and on the following day obferv-ed in latitude 1 ' 4' S. and 
 were then juft lofing fight of the eafternmoft of the group, bearing 
 about E. 1 3"^ N. when we again faw land in the fouth-weft quarter, 
 and fteered for it, which proved to be Swallow^ ifland and Volcano 
 ifland ; and further to the S. W. wc could difcern E£:mont ifland : all 
 thefc were difcoAcrcd by Captain Carteret. Befides thefc ^ve difcovered 
 alow ifland, which lies about S. S. W. from Volcano ifland, and fteered 
 to go between the two latter, but found that a reef ran from the fouth 
 part of the low ifland ; to avoid which wc hauled to the Ibuthward. 
 then bore away; and fteerlng W. by S. about five leagues, faw two 
 more low iflands bearing about W. by N. diftant two or three miles. 
 As the moon was juft now fetting, and wc had reafon to think running 
 in the dark would be extremely dangerous, we hove to with the fliip's 
 head towards Volcano ifland. Captain Carteret, in his Narrative, fays, 
 that they faw fmoke, but no flame, ifluing from this volcano : but as 
 w^e paffed it clofe, and even when we wxre at a dlflancc, we beheld it 
 
 P P 2
 
 292 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 emitting a large and bright flame every tea minutes ; whicli was to 
 me and many on board truly gratifying, who had ne\ er before beheld 
 fo grand a phenomenon. The height of this volcano is from the fur- 
 face of the fea two thoufand feet and upwards ; and its height is to its 
 bafe in the proportion of one to three; its circular form, with ftraight 
 fides and an apparently pointed top, gave us reafon to fuppofe that it 
 had received this form by fucceffive eruptions of lava ifl'uing from the 
 crater, and running down its fides : and perhaps if this ever w^as what 
 naturalifts call a primitive mountain, it might not originally be very 
 high ; Its being furrounded by low iflands, and its fimilar forra to any 
 common heap of matter, naturally enough fuggeft fuch an idea. 
 
 28th, At fix A. M, we had the weft fide of Volcano illand in one 
 with the weft end of Trevanion's ifland, bearing, per compafs, S.22°E. 
 At the fame time the eaftern extremity of Egmont (or Guernfcy) ifland 
 bore S. 43° E. and the extremities of two low iflands north of us from 
 N. 33^ W. to N. 20° W. diftance of the volcano five miles. Hence 
 I conclude Egmont ifland of far lefs extent than it is fald to be by 
 Captain Cartaret. Variation 10° E. 
 
 From fix A. M. till noon we fteered W. by N. by compafs twenty- 
 three miles, and obferved in latitude 10° 2^ S. and longitude, coned:ed 
 from lunar fights and chronometer, l05° 5^ E. ; and at this time the 
 volcano bore E. 29° S. ; but we had reafon to think that a confider- 
 able current fet to the northward. From noon we fteered V\^. N. W. 
 twenty-eight miles, and ebuld juft dlfcern Volcano Ifland through the 
 haze ; probably, had the weather been clearer, we might have fecn it 
 farther off; thousih even now we muft have been dlftant from it near 
 twenty leagues. 
 
 On the 2yth and 30th we had unfettled weather, with thunder, 
 lightning, and rain. About noon we paflcd to the fouthward of 
 Stewart's Iflands : they are five in number, of no great extent, and low. 
 They were dlfcovered by Captain Hunter on his paflage to Batuvia, 
 after the lofs of the Slrius ; their longitude we make 1(32° 3o' E. On 
 the tollow day we pafll-d in fight of New Georgia, and faw no more
 
 October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 293 
 
 land tor ievcral clays. On tlie 10th of 0«5tobcr wc croiTcd the equator 
 in longitude 152" E. where we had the winds prevailing generally 
 from E. S, E. to N. E. and frefli breezes. From the hue to 0° N. 
 and betwixt the longitudes of 150° and 140^, we found that the cur- 
 rent often fet to the eaftward ; and as we run down about ten degrees 
 in the latitude of 7° N. we experienced many calms ; notwithftanding 
 which we all enjcjyed an almoft uninterrupted ftatc of good health. 
 
 On the 25th we came in fight of a low ifland bearing W. by N. and 
 prcfontly perceived fome canoes coming towards us. About nine A. 
 M. one came alongfide without the leaft fear or hefitation ; by which 
 free behaviour we judged that they had been acquainted with Euro- 
 peans before ; and their frequent mention of " Capitaine" confirmed 
 this conjeclure. Thefe firft were followed by feveral more, who ex- 
 changed their fiihing-hooks (made of lliells) and lines, and koir rope, 
 &c. for any thing that was given them : and v\hen feveral ot them 
 were admitted on board, they, for a confiderable time, fhewed no in- 
 clination to ftcal. However, thofe in the canoes gave us reafon to alter 
 the good opinion we had formed of them, by flealing the rudder rings ; 
 a thing which the fkilful Friendly illanders had attempted in vain: 
 and bcfidcs this, one fellow^ was caught handing a pump-fpear into his 
 canoe. As we had been accullomed to fuch matters, wc only drove 
 them off the decks for thcfe tirft depredations; but while we fat at 
 dinner in the cabin, we heard them at work tr}ing to knock off the 
 bolt-head of the rudder rings : upon which the captain fired fome fmall 
 fliot among them, which made them inftantly flieer off. Juft at this 
 time William Tucker and Jolin Connelly were difcovered Ivvimming 
 clofe under the ftern, with a view to make their efcape to the canoes, 
 and by their fkulking appeared afraid of being fired at likewife ; but 
 the captain, enraged at the former for his ingratitude and deceit, and 
 willing to part with the latter, told them, that if they chofe to go they, 
 might, for he would not fire at them. Connelly anlvvered, " Thank 
 " you, Sir; ' and they both fwam to the canoes, and were received by 
 the favages w ith great fhoutings. Soon after, a breeze fpringing up
 
 204 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797, 
 
 from the N. E. we refumed our courfe, and left them behind. Con- 
 nelly \vc had brought by force from Tongataboo for threatening the 
 miffionaries. During his ftay on board he had condudlcd himfclf 
 quietly, and being put on the fhip's books as an ordinary feaman, feem- 
 ed to be content in his fituation, till this laft adlion proved his hypo- 
 crify. The fame might be faid of Tucker, who being alfo reinftated, 
 had often faid that he was happy that he had been taken again after 
 running from the Ihip at Otaheite ; and perhaps he fpoke his fenti- 
 ments, as there was reafon to believe that Connelly had pcrfuaded him 
 to this lafl refolution. If Connelly was really a Botany bay convict (as 
 we have fmce heard), we may fuppofc hini to have been aduated by 
 two motives, the fear of work, and the fear of punifliment if caught in 
 England ; and as for Tucker, his condu61: had long made it evident 
 that he was under the abfolute rule of his fenfiial paffions ; which is 
 the more to be lamented for the fake of an excellent mother, of whom 
 he was the only fon. This fpot, on which they have chofen to pafs 
 their days, is but a fmall ifland on the bofom of the deep, being not 
 more than two or three miles in circumference, and where the com- 
 forts and necefilirics of life fcem fo fcarcc, that we had reafon to think 
 their whole fubfiftence confifted only of filh and roots, cocoa-nut, and 
 perhaps the bread-fruit. 
 
 The natives are not a ftout race ; their complexion is a dark copper; 
 their difpofitions lively. We faw no women. Their canoes differ from 
 all wc had met before, being raifed high at each end, and painted red: 
 they have outriggers, and fail either end forcmoft. Their fails are made 
 nearly in the fame manner as the fnigle failing canoes of the Friendly 
 Iflands. The latitude of the ifland is 7° 22' N. and longitude 1 40" -1 8'E, 
 We named it from the runaway, Tucker s ijlmid. 
 
 With hglit airs of wind from the N. E. ve proceeded on our courfe 
 to the weft ward, leaving Tucker and his companion to reflecfl upon the 
 unhappy, choice they had made ; a choice, to all appearance, fo replete 
 with wretchedncfs, that we did not imagine a third perfon could be 
 found willing to follow their cxuimplc : but fuch is the prevalfinoe of
 
 October.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 295 
 
 habit, and the enervating influence of idlcnefs over the mind, that 
 Andrew CorneUus Lind came to the captain, and begged earneftly to 
 be fet on fliore upon the next illand we fliould difcover. To this re- 
 quell not only confent was given, but likewilc a promifc to let him 
 have a feledlion of ufcful articles wherewith to benefit the natives, and 
 the better to introduce and give him importance among them. 
 
 2dth. When we had got about ten leagues farther weftward, at 
 midnight we faw another ifland bearing N. and at four A. M. faw two 
 more to the N. W. and as the day broke fhortly after, we counted fix 
 of thefc low iflands, the extreme points bearing from N. W. bv. N. to 
 N. E. by E. : for the moft fouthcrly of thefe we fteered, and foon had 
 a great number of canoes about the fliip, into one of which Andrew, 
 after taking leave of his fliipmates, went, and was received with joy by 
 the favages. The canoe that took him in foon put off, and, as they 
 paddled away, he ftood up and Avaved his hand, fcemingly more elated 
 than depreffed by his change of fituation. The indolent life he had 
 led at Otaheite, the unobftrufted eafe with which all his fenfual ap- 
 petites had been gratified there, with his averfion to labour, and the 
 profped; of its ncceffity, which a return to Europe held up to his view, 
 ftrongly urged him to prefer a lazy favage life upon- thefe unpromifmg 
 iflands to his native Sweden, which he knew to have advantages only 
 •for the induftriousi The followin^r are the articles which the captain 
 gave him.: viz. two hand-faws, two hatchets, one hammer, ten look^ 
 ing-glaffes, eighteen knives, three hundred deck nails, two razors, and 
 fome trifles befidcs ; thefe, with what he had of his own, particularly 
 a bible, will, no doubt, make him an acquifition to the natives, and 
 may likewife be the means of rendering fervicc to the other two, whom 
 it was our opinion he would endeavour to join. The natives of this 
 group, their canoes, implements, and eagerncfs for iron, &c. v.ere ex- 
 a<5lly the fame as at Tucker's ifland. The afternoon fet in gloomv and 
 rainy, which neverthelefs was not a hindrance to the canoes, many of 
 which followed us quite out of fight of their own ifland; and as we
 
 29(3 HRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 obferved them haul to the northward in a fquall, \vc concluded that 
 they meant to go to fome place in that quarter. 
 
 27th. About ten A. M. we came in fight of another low ifl.ind, 
 bearing S. W. and as we altered our courfe to go to the fouthward of it, 
 when weft of us it (hewed like two diftind; iflands, lying near each 
 other : here alfo many of the natives came off, and trafficked, as the 
 others had done. One thing we had obfcrved as peculiar and remark- 
 able, that hitherto in our range among thefe iflands no females had ap- 
 peared ; whence we concluded the men either more jealous than their 
 eaftern neighbours, or as placing a higher value on their women ; or, 
 perhaps, they had at fome period fuifcred in defending them from licen- 
 tious vifitors. The latitude of thefe fifter iflands is "]" \A' N, longi- 
 tude 1-14° 50^ E. At four P. M. the latter bore E. by N. two leagues. 
 Juft before dark we law another ifland to the W. N. W. diftant -three 
 or four leagues ; and fteering to go to the fouthward of it, the better 
 to avoid any danger that might lie in the way, at midnight it bore 
 N. N. E. 
 
 About four A. M. on the 28th, we difcovered other iflands, and by 
 means of our night-glafs could difcern the extremes from W. N. W 
 to N. bv W. About this time it fell calm, which continued ; and at 
 daybreak we counted fix, which might, from their fize, merit the- 
 name ot iilands ; and feven illets, or kaycs ; to the "\vhole of which we 
 gave the name of the Thirteen iilands. At the diilance of one league 
 their extremes bore from N. W. \ W. to N. 4 E. by which their ex- 
 tent may be eftimated. Tlic latitude of the fouthefn part of them is 
 7" 1 r/ N. longitude 1M° 30' E. About fixty canoes came off at firft, 
 and afterwards fome of o\n- people counted one hundred and fifty in 
 fight, each of which, on an average, contained feven men, which is 
 one thoufand and fifty ; and if we add half as many left on fhore, and 
 double that number for the women and children, the population of 
 this group alone will amount to three thoufand one hundred and fifty 
 louLs, which, according to the appearance of the iflands, muft often be
 
 OcTOBEK.] TO THE SOUTri-'^E\ ISLANDS. 297 
 
 pinchetl for food. Here, for the firll time, we got a fight of their wo- 
 men, wlio, to the number of a dozen or mor<?, came off in three canoes: 
 in two they were accompanied by the men ; the third was occupied 
 by young women only. For a confiderable time they kept aloof, whilfl: 
 tlicir own men feemed to eye them with attention ; but obfcrving that 
 wc did not regard them with any particular notice, they were fulfercd 
 to approach within a Jew yards of the fliip, which, as well as ourfclvcs, 
 they appeared to lurvey with delight. Some of them were well fea- 
 tured, having neither very thick lips nor broad faces, though inclining 
 to both. Their hair is black and long. In complexion they differ 
 from the men' by a fickly kind of whitifhnefs that is mixed with the 
 natural olive. As we faw them almoft naked, their greateft ornament 
 and higheft praifc was the decency and modefty of their behaviour. 
 The greater number of the men were naked alio: feme had a faih mat 
 wrapped round their middle ; others added an ornamental belt round 
 their body, near the navel : thefe belts arc about an inch broad, com- 
 pofed of bits of black and white Ihclls, bored and ftrung after the 
 manner of beads. Some of them wore a broad conical hat, in form 
 not much unlike that of the Ghinefc. Thcfc iflands fecmcd alike in 
 every refpe6t, no one appearing to afford greater natural advantages 
 than the other, except where the groups derive fome enjoyments from 
 neighbourhood ; and perhaps more extcnfive flioals and fmooth water 
 afford a co^•ert where ^the filh may flicker from. the ftorm. Thus they 
 may find greater refources than on the ifland that is folitary. How- 
 ever, with rcfpcvft- to articles of exchange, they appeared to be equally 
 florcd : of thefe the flaple is koir rope, thirty fathom of which wc 
 could purchafe for a piece of an old iron hoop ftx inches long : this 
 rope is in general about an inch thick, and equal, if not fuperior, in 
 ftrength to our hemp-made ropes. As they every \vhere exprefled the 
 moll eager defire for iron, at the above price we might, by delaying a ■ 
 few hours at each ifland, have almoft filled the Ihip Avith it , and 
 would. certainly have done it, had we known what we have lince learnt, 
 
 Q Q.
 
 298 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 that it will frequently fetch a good price in, China. Their fifliing- 
 tacklc differs little from what we had feen in the eaftcrn iflands ; but 
 their matting was ftriking and curious, being wove and made in the 
 form of a Spanifh fafh, with a fancy border at each end, wrought in 
 with black threads. The natural colour of thefe falhes is white ; but 
 many of them are dyed of a beautiful yellow with turmeric. It is im- 
 poffible to behold thofe neat-wrought faflies, and their rude manufac- 
 turers at the fame time, without wondering, and wifhing to know how 
 they came by the art. It is not improbable that they might have been 
 taught by the Jefuit miffionaries ; two of whom were fent by the Spa- 
 nifh government from Manilla in the year 1710 ; but as the fhip that 
 took them thither was driven away by the currents, the Jefuits were 
 never heard of more : however, others were fent, who continued their 
 efforts a few years, till having informed themfelves of the general po- 
 verty of the iflands, and certain that they never could be of value to 
 the Spanifh monarchy, they quitted them, and fmce that time (about 
 1720) they have been totally neglected. This makes it the more 
 worthy of remark, that through fo long a period this ufeful art lliould 
 ftill be retained ; and while it rellecfts credit upon their original teachers, 
 is an encouragement to our miffionaries to endeavour all in their power 
 to introduce the mechanic arts, as it proves that their labour will not 
 be in vain. Turtle is among the articles of their fubfiftence, as wc 
 purchafed one of about twenty pounds weight for a piece of iron hoop 
 about two feet long. 
 
 They manage their canoes with great dexterity, and go from ifland 
 to ifland apparently without fear; from which free intercourfe, and 
 having no weapon, except a fling, among them, we concluded they 
 had but few wars. Their language differs much from all that wc had 
 heard before ; and except a few words, as, looloo (iron), capitaine, &c. 
 we underftood but little of what they fpoke. Their numerals ars as 
 follow :
 
 Nov.} TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 299 
 
 Englifli. Carolinas. Pelew Iflands. 
 
 One Iota Tong 
 
 Two Rua Oroo 
 
 Three Toloo Othey 
 
 Four Tia Oang 
 
 Fire Lecma Accm 
 
 Six Honoo Malong 
 
 Seven Fizoo Owcth 
 
 Eight Warrow Tei 
 
 Nine Hcevo Etew 
 
 Ten Segga Mackotlx. 
 
 Wc now, as it proved, had taken our leave of the Carolinas, for after 
 the Thirteen iflands wc faw no more of them. To vifit the Pelews 
 being our next objeft, we accordingly fhaped our courfe thither, but 
 had rather a tedious pafTage of nine days, owing to light and "s ariable 
 winds. 
 
 November 5th. We obferved in latitude 7° 25' N. ; and at funfct, 
 being about two leagues more to the northward, we thought that we 
 faw land in the fouth-wefl quarter, but could not be certain of this by 
 rcafon of the dull gloomy weather which at that time prevailed : 
 however, as we judged ourfclves to be at no great diflance from the 
 iflands, we fhortencd fiiil, and tacked to the S. E. The fliip now 
 having to contend with a head fea, pitched to fuch a degree, that the 
 fore-topfall yard broke in the flings : as this was of confcqucnce in 
 our prefent fituation, it was immediately fent down, and replaced by a 
 fparc crofs-jack yard, until a proper one could be made. During the 
 night we had fqually and rainy weather, which lafled until near eight 
 A. M. on the 0th, when it became more fettled, and wc arot lio:ht of 
 the land, bearing W. S. W. diflant ten or eleven leagues. As we 
 were fleering towards it, we were fuddenly alarmed by the cook's 
 caboufe catching fire : every man infl.v.ntiy exerted liimfelf to extin- 
 quifh it ; and happily this was foon etfeifled ; though, had not tlie 
 
 QQ 2
 
 300 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE 3797.] 
 
 forefail and rigging been wet with rain, the flame blazed fb fiercely, 
 that it is probable the iliip might have been burnt down to the water's 
 edge. This fire was occafioned by the cook melting his fat in a carelefs 
 way. 
 
 At noon wc obferved in latitude 7° 31' N. the extremes of the 
 land bearing from W. 40° N. to W. 25° S. dillance ab<iut eight 
 leagues. With a brilk gale from the fouthward we continued our 
 courfe until half paft three P. M. when we were within two fliort 
 miles of the reef which extends no great diilancc from the fliore of 
 the largeft ifland, called Babelthoup, divided into feveral dlftrlfts, each 
 of which is governed by a feparate chief, acknowledging the fupreme 
 authority of Abba Tliulle. When we hove to, we wxre oppofitc to 
 the fourthern part of the difcrid of Artingall. Two hundred pcrfons, 
 or more, were collected upon the beach, and prefcntly about a dozen 
 canoes were fecn upon the water, fome oi' which w^ere under fall, and 
 others paddling ; but as the weather at this time wore a moll gloomy 
 afped, three of them only came far enough off to get alongfide. The 
 natives in tliefe had a piece of white cloth tied upon a flick, which 
 they waved as they drew near; an emblem, as we fuppofed, of peace. 
 They approached witliout fear or the leall hefitatiun, and fpoke to us 
 as to a people with whom they had been long acquainted ; but their 
 language was quite unintelligible ; nor could we, even with the help 
 of Captain Henry Wilfon's vocabulary, make them undcrftand one 
 word, except a few of their proper names ; they ho^vever kept talking 
 very fall, accompanying their words with violent and fudden gcflures 
 of the hands and body, expreffive of their eager defue for us to anchor 
 at a place to the north-weft, towards which they pointed ; and one of 
 them, who wc afterwards learnt w^as a rupack, with a clumfy bone on 
 his wrlfl, came up the Ihip's fide in great hafle to enforce the recjucll, 
 and was followed by two more, who were equally folicitous ; b\it all 
 their entreaties, added to our intention to make ibme Hay at this cele- 
 brated group, were of no avail, as we could fee no place where it was 
 probable that a lliip could fafely anchor, and we had not Lieutenant
 
 Nov.] TO THE SOUTII-SFA ISLANDS. «01 
 
 Macluer's chart on board to guide lis. On our mentioning the name 
 of Abba Tliulle, they repeated it fcveral times, faying, S'TliuUc, 
 S'Thullc, and pointed to the land. The name of Lee Boo was not 
 fpoken, for they' talked fo faft and fo conflantly, that we had fcarcc 
 any opportunity to ailc qucftions ; and probably the weather, which 
 nov/ threatened a florm, kept him out of their minds. As their com- 
 rades in the canoes bawled loudly for thofe on board to rejoin tlicnr, 
 the captain prefented a few knives, looking-glaffcs, &c. when they 
 haftily, though rclu<5lantly, took their leave ; but before they paddled 
 off they were at foriie pains to flicw their gratitude, by throvvinci; upon 
 our decks with difficulty a couple of cocoa-nuts, which was all they 
 had : they then made for the Ihore. This was all the intercourfe wc 
 had with the Pelew iflanders, a circumftance much regretted by us, as 
 it had all along been the captain's intention to ftay here a few days, for 
 the purpofe of learning what we could of the inhabitants rcfpcdling the 
 expediency of fettling a miffion among them ; and to prepare the way 
 for miflionaries, by diftributing fome ufcful articles retained in the fiiip 
 for the fcand the Fecjce people, from a hope of being favoured at both 
 places with fafe anchorage and friendly intercourle ; but, for the pre- 
 fent voyage, wc concluded every thing of this nature at an end, and pro- 
 ceeded to make the bell of our way to China, cherifhing the hope of 
 there receiving letters from our dear friends in England, to whom we 
 now thought ourfclvcs drawing near, though ftill at the dillance of 
 many thoufand miles. 
 
 Soon after we bore away, and had fhapcd our courfc N. f E. wc 
 fell in with an extenfive reef, trending N. E. about two leagues from 
 the north end of Babelthoup, and difcerned three fmall iflands, lying 
 further to the N. cnclofcd by the above reef. When we had run 
 nearly five leagues, the northcrnmoft of the three bore S. W, by W. 
 and at this time we reckoned ourfelves paft the north point of the reef; 
 and though very dark, with conftant rain, wc continued our courfc 
 for two leagues more, when we faw two other iflands to the N. N. W. 
 and at only a lliort diilancc from us, on which account we hauled to
 
 S02 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797. 
 
 the eaftward, and hove to till the moon fliould rife, which it did about 
 eight o'clock, when we refumed our courfe, and afterwards fell ia 
 with no more dangers. 
 
 If we admit the few which we faw of the Pelew iflanders to be a 
 fpecimen of the whole, they are, in our opinion, inferior in external 
 appeajance of the Marquefans, the Society or Friendly iflanders ; they 
 have not the ftature and lyinmetry of the two firft, and fall far fliort 
 of the mufcular, bold, and manly look of the latter. They approach 
 the neareft to their neighbours, the Carolinians ; for, like them, they 
 are neither a flout nor handfome race. Among fome cufloms which 
 they feem to have in common at both places, is that of flitting the ear, 
 through which fome of them put vegetable ornaments, at leafl an inch 
 thick. In tattooing at Pelew, their legs and thighs appear as if they 
 had been dipped in a dye of blueifli black, the fame as at the Carolinas ; 
 but they mark their bodies alfo with figures, like fingers, or gloves. 
 They appeared before us quite naked, without feeming confcious of 
 Ihame, and fliewed their kindnefs and hofpitality by the earnefl invita- 
 tions they gave us to vifit their habitations. 
 
 From November 7th, when we left the Pelew iflands, till our arri- 
 val on the coafl of China, nothing very intercfting occurred. The 
 winds were fo unfettled, that we experienced hardly any thing like the 
 N. E. monfoon, until within two oy three days fail of the Bafliees, the 
 mofl fouthern of which we faw the evening of the 1 7th : they appeared 
 to be very high, and diflant about ten leagues. Having no chart on 
 board upon the accuracy of which we could depend, we kept our wind 
 for the night, flretching to the northward. At day-break, fuppofing 
 that we could clear the northern rocks, wc bore away wefl, and with a 
 little alteration of our courfe, failed clofe pafl the northemmofl ifle, 
 which lies in the latitude of 21'^ N. longitude 122° 0' E. 
 
 The Bafhees confifl of fix or feven iflands ; tAvo to the S. E. are high ; 
 fome of the others are of moderate height : the moft northern except 
 one is high and craggy at top ; and between thefe two lie two fmall 
 rocks above water. After paffing this group in about 21° lo' N. wc
 
 Nov.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS.' 303 
 
 fleered W. N. W. I N. twcnty-fivc leagues, then reckoned ourfthcs in 
 latitude 21°-12'N. and longitude 121" E. the fouth point of Formora 
 bearing at the fame time N. -| E.; wc faw the rocks which He to the 
 S. E. and had a good birth of them as we paflcd. 
 
 20th. Wc got into foundings, and paflcd feveral Chinefe iifliing- 
 boats. The next day, at fcvcn A. M. being -within two or three leagues 
 of the Great Lemma, a pilot came on board: at fivtl he afkcd about 
 one hundred dollars to take us to Macao road, but afterwards accepted 
 thirteen, bclldes giving us two fine fifh. 
 
 2l{l. At ten A. M. we paflcd between the Grand Lemma and 
 Potoy, and leaving all the iflands, except Lingting, to the fouth of us, 
 we failed through with a fine cafterly breeze. At three P. M. came 
 in fight of Macao, and at half pad four anchored in the road, the town 
 bearing W. two leagues. The pilot was then difcharged, and a fignal 
 made for another ; and that no time might be delayed, our own boat 
 was low^ered down, and an ofHcer difpatchcd on flaore to bring a pro- 
 per pilot off, as alfo to learn what European fliips Y*ere at Canton ; but 
 to our great mortification wc found that not one had as yet arrived, 
 confequently there were no letters for us. Nor w^as this the only dif- 
 appointment : the Chinefe had lately refi.ifed to permit any vefl*el up 
 to Whampoa, except fuch as brought cargoes thither. One fliip from 
 Port Jackfon had been lying fix weeks in the Typa, at the entrance of 
 the river, and had not as yet obtained leave to proceed upwards ; and 
 on our applying to the mandarin at Macao, wc were told, that, as we 
 had brought no cargo, no pilot would be fent on board until the Ho- 
 nourable Company's fupercargoes could prevail on the Chinefe govern- 
 ment at Canton for a paflport. The boat, however, brought us a va- 
 riety of refrelhments, of which, though received as verj' falutary after 
 a long pafl^age, we did not fland in fuch need as many preceding navi- 
 gators who had neither failed the diftance, nor been fo long at fea as 
 ourfelvcs. We had run from the time of leaving England upwards of 
 thirty-four thoufand miles, and had been out fourteen months, eleven 
 of them at fea ; yet in all this time we had fcarccly experienced any
 
 304 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1797, 
 
 ficknefs, and were at prcfent, to a man, in good health. We never 
 made ufe of antifcorbutics, as malt, fpruce, &c. ; but being a crew 
 fmall in number to what are ufually on board fliips upon voyages of 
 difcovery, we were enabled to lay in a fufficient ftock of frefh provi- 
 lions at one group of iflands, to ferve, with a Uttle oeconomy, till we 
 got to a place to procure more ; fo that our failors always had frefli 
 meat at leaft twice a week ; and for nearly half of the time that we 
 were in the South Seas they lived entirely upon the hogs of the dif- 
 ferent iflands ; and wc may venture to fay, that thoie who can be thus 
 highly favoured need not be folicitous about any other antifcorbutics. 
 On our arrival in port the captain observes, he- was exceedingly fliocked 
 at hearing around him, once more, that great and awful name blaf- 
 phemed, which, for fourteen months, he had never heard mentionexE 
 but with reverence : it was a found as grievous as unufual.
 
 Di:c.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. SOi 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Oscurreuccs at Ch'iv.a, and Voyage home. 
 
 November 22d. 
 
 EARLY in the morning Captain Wilfnn \\cnt in the pinnace to 
 Macao, to endeavour to have the obftaclcs to our going up re- 
 moved, while the crew were employed painting the fliip, and putting 
 her otherwise in order ; and in a few hours we had the pleafurc to fee 
 her look almoft as fmart as when flie left Spithead. Toward-j evening 
 a ftrong gale came on from the north, and increafed to fuch a degree, 
 that in the courfc of the night wx. drove a confidcrablc wr.y with botli 
 anchors ahead. The next morning wc were glad to embrace the op- 
 portunity of the windward tide to weigh our anchors and run into the 
 harbour of the Typa, and moored clofe to the Britannia, Captain Den- 
 net, the fliip wc mentioned from Port Jackfon. A chop (or paiTport) 
 Iiad this day been icnt for that vefl'cl to proceed for Whampoa, and 
 Captain Wilfon judged it a good opportunity for him to go up in her, 
 fuppofmg that by being on the fpot he fliould the fooncr obtain the 
 leave he wanted. 
 
 On the 25th the Britannia left the Typa; and that our lliip m.iglit 
 be in readinefs, we began to {Irip the rigging off the mafii-hcads, \\hich 
 wc examined, and found it ncceflary to put new cheeks to the main- 
 mafl:. The wliole of the rigging was thoroughly repaired ; and jult as 
 this work was upon the finifli, the captain anived on the Qth of De- 
 cember with permiflion for the fliip to go up the river. 
 
 On the 1 oth we weighed from the Typa, and as \\e \n orkcd out had 
 the plcafure of feeing three large fliips at anchor in the eaftern road : 
 thefe, we hoped, had, what wc anxioufly longed for, letters from Eng- 
 land ; and io it proved. 
 
 <x a
 
 306 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [trgj. 
 
 On the 1 3th we moored at Whampoa^ where we found fhips of dif- 
 fdyent nations, Swedes, Danes, Americans, and Englifli ; of the latter, 
 belonging to the Honourable Company, w^ere the Glatton, Canton^ 
 Boddam, and Arniflon, befides fome extra fliips. The three former 
 have recently fuffered much by a tifloon in the China fea, and were re- 
 turned to refit. The ArnifVon had two or three days ago arrived from 
 England, having touched at the Cape of Good Hope ; and by her we 
 learnt the political ftate of our native country. 
 
 We now; expe6led to be three months at leaft before we fliould re- 
 ceive our cargo, and.be difpatched -home, which we fuppofcd wovild be 
 with a fleet coinpofed of Indiamen, jufl at this time arrived. But the 
 fupercargoes having determined to difpatch the Glatton, Boddam, and 
 Amazon packet, they ordered an immediate furvey to be made of our 
 fhip, and the report of the committee appointed for that purpofe be- 
 ing, " That the Duff was in excellent order, and fit to receive a cargo," 
 Mr. R, Hall, the head fupercargo, told our captain, that if he could 
 take in our lading, and be ready to depart in the courfe of five or fix 
 days, he would difpatch us. This the captain promlfing to perform, 
 teas were immediately fent alongfide. But though the fliip was in 
 every refpeA In very good order, llie was by no means clear for receiv- 
 ing a cargo ; our hold was half full of water-cafks, bread punihecns, 
 tierces of beef, and various articles of flores beyond our confumption, . 
 and for which we had as yet found no purchafers ; fo that to dilpofe of 
 thefe, and to remove them from place to place as we advanced in our 
 lading, gave us more trouble and expended more time than taking in 
 the cargo itfelf. However, by the Slfl of December we were com- 
 pletely laden, and in a fhorter time than perhaps ever fliip was before ;, 
 and having, by the kindncfs of the fupercargoes,, got over the difficul- 
 ties which the Chinefe are continually throwing in the way, we that 
 fame day ran down the river, and joined the other Ihips at a' place 
 called the Second Bar, juft as they were getting under fail. 
 
 The Angularity of our manners at China could not fail to attract no- 
 tice ; and as all immorality was utterly difcountcnanced, not an oath
 
 Jan.] to THE SOUTH- SEA ISLANDS. 307 
 
 fworn, and an appearance of unufual devotion maintained, the com- 
 pany we had now joined were pleafcd wittily to ncw-chriften the DufF, 
 and called her The Tc?i Commandmenis. 
 
 January 2d, 17y8. We got down to Macfio, where wc found three 
 Englifli men of wai;, and fcvcn of the Bombay cotton fliips, at anchor, 
 waiting: for us to fail with them. 
 
 The Honourable Company's fhip Glatton, commanded by Charles 
 Drummond, Efq. was appointed to convoy us home, to take the country 
 iliips bound to Bombay under his care ; and the Fox and La Sibyllc 
 were to accompany us for a few leag^les down the China fca. Every 
 thing relative to the fleet's departure being arranged, and the Ihips in 
 readinefs, early on the 5th we put to fea, with a frcfli gale from the 
 north, and found that the Duft'was fully competent to keep up with 
 them, though wc had been apprehcnfive of this, as our Indiamcn arc 
 remarkable for their fafl failing, efpccially when it blows hard. 
 
 Our paflage down the China fea was as favourable as we could have 
 wiflied it to be. Some time in the courfe of the firfl night the frigates 
 left us, and we faw them no more. 
 
 On the 1 oth we pafled Pulo Sapata, and, continuing our courfe for 
 the ftraits of Malacca, at ten A. M. on the 14th we came in fight of the 
 Malay coall ; at the fame time faw a ftrange fail ahead. Having heard 
 that an enemy's fquadron was cruifmg in the ftraits, we at firll thought 
 this might be one of them fent to look out ; and this fecmed the opi- 
 nion of our commodore, for he made the fignal for the fleet to prepare 
 for action, and that one of the faftefl: failing fliips flionld chafe. But 
 we foon recognifcd her to be a Portuguefe vefl'el which had. departed 
 from Macao three days before us. In the afternoon we rounded Cape 
 Romania, and fpoke a fliip from Bengal that was at anchoi; under the 
 lee of the point, which removed all our fears of an enemy. The fl:rait3 
 of Malacca are accounted dangerous to navigate in the dark ; however, 
 as the wind was fair, our commodore kept the fleet running all thg 
 night. Next day we had calms, which obliged us to anchor ; but a 
 breeze fpringing up at N. E. we foon weighed, and the wind incrcafmg 
 
 B R 2
 
 308 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [1798. 
 
 at midnight, we pafled the Water iflands, and at two A. M. on the 
 lOth came to with the fmall bower in Malacca road, in fevcn fathoms 
 Water, the flagftatF on the citadel bearing N. 04" E. the Outer Water 
 Ifland S. 3Q°E. diftant from the town two or three miles. The reafon 
 of our touching at this place being to fill up our water, and gain in- 
 formation for the fafety of the fleet, at daybreak in the morning the 
 boats were hoifted out, and moft of the commanders went on fliore, 
 but were difappointed in the hope of intelligence, as there was none 
 of later date than what w^e had received at China. As this fpoke only 
 of war, our duty was to prepare for all events on the paffage ; not that 
 we had fears. The ability and care which we had obferved in our 
 commodore, and the ftrength which would be with us after the Bom- 
 bay fliips had feparated, gave us confidence. The Glatton mounted 
 forty guns, and the Boddam about thirty, and both flaips had a few 
 troops on board ; bcfides, at the Cape of Good Hope or St. Helena mc 
 expe<R:ed to join others of the Honourable Company's fhips. 
 
 On the 1 7 th we received about four tons of water, which is brought 
 off in bulk by fmall veffels kept here for the purpofe. We alfo received 
 an addition to our live ftock, and could have gone to fea this evening, 
 bur that the large fliips had not completed their water ; and one of the 
 fleet which had lain fevcral months laden at Whampoa had fprung a 
 leak, and was obliged to ufc tedious and laborious methods to find the 
 place where the water entered. This they happily found, and it de- 
 icrves notice as a hint to fliipwrights and to thofe who are more intc- 
 refled : by ripping the copper off the under wales a bok-holc waS' 
 found left without the bolt ; an a6l of negligence which might ha-\'c 
 proved of the moft fatal confequence, had it not been dlfcovercd. 
 
 Malacca in profped; affords little beauty ; the houfcs, excepting a 
 few, have a poor and mean look ; and the befl, though convenient, 
 are neither large nor fightly. The fortifications which fiirround the 
 town have originally been llrong, but at prefent are thought too weak 
 to (land the fliock of cannon planted upon them : to make up for this 
 defcd, our countrymen, fmcc the place fell into their hands, have
 
 March] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 309 
 
 ftrengthcncd the lines and outworks, fo that they could now make a 
 very good defence. The ftrcets within the ramparts crofs each other 
 at right angles, three or four lying cafl and weft, and as many north 
 and louth. The fhops are fliabby, prefcnting for fale nothing that is 
 enticing to an European ; and their market has all the appearance of 
 a negro market in the Weft Indies. Until the Englilli made a fettle- 
 mcnt upon Pulo Pinang, or Prince of Wales's ifland, this city was the 
 only place of trade in the ftrait ; and from our earlieft knowledge of 
 India, is mentioned as a place of great importance. They export tin, 
 nutmegs, canes, &e. Provifions were at this time fcarce and dear. The 
 inhabitants are a mixture of Dutch, Aliilays, and Chinefc : the garrifbn 
 at prefcnt is Englifli. 
 
 On the 20th we failed with the fleet, and proceeded down the ftrait 
 until we came in fight of Pulo Pinang, when the Bombay fliips left us 
 and ftecred for that ifland. Our fleet was now reduced ; confifting 
 only of the Glatton, Boddam, Amazon, and our own fliip. 
 
 Sift. We finiflied the laft of our yams, which had plentifully fup- 
 plled us five months. We had a very good pafl'ao'c, with few gales of 
 wind, and met with no difafter; nor did we fee a ftrange fail to alarm 
 us until the lOth of March, when in the morning we made the Cape 
 land, and fell In with two tranfports from Amboyna, which joined us. 
 At night we hove to, and waited for day to run for Tabic buy, where 
 we were dlrefted to fill up our water, and refrefli the crew. 
 
 At daybreak on the ] 7th, after we had borne away, one of our boys, 
 a;oing up the main flirouds to loofe the main-topgallant-fail, flipped 
 his hold and Icll into the fea ; the jolly-boat was inftantly lowered 
 from the ftern, and providentially faved him juft on the point of 
 finking : wc got him on board, and though far fpent, after dlfcharging 
 a quantity of water, he foon recovered. At three P. M. we. anchored 
 in the bay, where we found a fquadron of men of war under the com- 
 mand of Admiral Chriillan ; two outward-bound Eaft-Indlamen, with 
 feveral Portuguefc, Danes, Americans, and other vefl!els. In the evening 
 the health-boat came to examine in what ftatc the crew were, and,
 
 310 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [i793. 
 
 on finding us all well, gave pcrmiffion for free conrrmunlcatlon with the 
 fliorc. After them the admiral's boat upon guard took account of the 
 Ihip, wlience flie came, &c. From fomc of the fliips they imprcffcd a 
 few men, but took none from us. When they had left the admiral's 
 excellent regulations, which are gi%cn to all vcffels coming into the 
 bay, they departed. In a few days we had got what water and flock 
 we wanted, but it w^as not until the ift of April that the fignal for 
 failing was made, and we put to fea, with the addition of the trans- 
 port Bellona to our fleet. The fame day we got out of fight of the 
 Cape, and fliaped our courfe for the ifland of St. Helena, where we 
 arrived on the 15th. Seven Indiamen, befidcs extra fliips, and t\\o 
 South-Sea whalers, lay in the bay all homeward boimd. 
 
 On the 1 6th the Albion, an extra fliip, was difpatched for England 
 by the governor, with advice of the fleet being on their pafl'age. 
 
 On the ift of May we failed. Captain Drummond, being the fenior 
 in command, had the charge of the fleet, confifting of twentv frul ; 
 during Dur paflage w^e faw only two or three ftrange fhips. In lati- 
 tude 20° N. w^e fell in wdth a fmall Spanifli veflel from Cadiz, bound to 
 Vera Cruz : flie was made a prize by our commodore. 
 
 On the 23d of June we faw the coaft of Ireland, weft of Kinfale ; 
 and on the day following put into Cork harbour for a convoy. The 
 Ethalion, Captain Countefs, was appointed for that purpofe by Admiral 
 Kingfmill ; and, after a detention of eight days by contrary winds, Ave 
 fet fail, and on the 4th of July faw the coaft of England. On the 8th 
 we pafled the Downs ; on the 1 ith came to anchor in the river Thames; 
 and in a few days difcharged our cargo of tea, which was landed in as 
 perfed; order as we received it in China. 
 
 THUS have we finiflied a voyage, in which the Miflionary Society, 
 and our Chriftian brethren in connexion with them, were fo deeply 
 iotereftcd. Their prayers have been heard for us, and eminently an-
 
 TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 311 
 
 fvvcred : fucccfs beyond our moll ianguinc cxncilations has crowned 
 our endeavours in every place where the millions have been fettled. 
 We have not loft a flngle iitdividual in all our extended voyage : "we 
 have hardly ever had a lick lift : we landed every miffionary in perfcc^t 
 health : and every feaman returned to England as well as on the day he 
 embarked at Blackwall. We feel our gratitude rifing high to the Au- 
 thor of all our mercies, and cannot but believe that every man VA'ho 
 Ihall candidly perufe the foregoing flieets will join us in acknowledging 
 the gracious providence that hath fupported us hitherto ; w^hilft the 
 generous and humane conduftors of this benevolent undertaking will 
 be animated by the fuccefs which hath attended their lirft attempt, to 
 purfuc with increafuig energy an objed: which appears fo fraught with 
 blcffingsto mankind. The way into the fouthern ocean is now open,, 
 and the facilities for enlarging the miffionary labours greatly increafed. 
 The fettlcments formed will every day continue to widen their circle 
 of influence and ufefulnefs ; and new and vaft countries around them, 
 equally acceffible, afford an inexhauftible field for the moft vigorous 
 exertions of Chriftian zeal. The more all circumftances are weighed, 
 the more it muft appear that this hath God done : and can we perceive 
 that it is his work, and not at leaft confefs our obligation to further 
 thefe efforts to the utmoft of our power? It is to be hoped that every 
 objedlion to this bleffed undertaking will be now removed ; that the 
 cautious will confefs themfelves fatisfied, and demonftrate their appro- 
 bation by a more liberal affiftancc, beeaufe of paft delay ; that the pre- 
 judiced will nobly lay afide their oppofitlon, and redeem unfavourable 
 fuggeftions by immediate and generous acknowledgements that they 
 knew us not; and that a miffion to the heathen, planned with much 
 deliberation, Inveftigation, and zeal, and executed with eminent lliill, 
 perfeverance, and fuccefs, bears a ftamp of divine bcneditflion upon it, 
 which ought to commend it to every man's confcience in the fight of 
 God. How much thankfulnefs, delight, and fatisfadion, it muft pro- 
 duce ia the hearts of thofe who have b?cn moft adive in the lervice..
 
 312 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 
 
 and fuch eminent benefaftors to mankind, I need not {^y : their work 
 itfelf is their firft and higheft reward. Having finiflicd, as one of the 
 inferior wheels in this great machine, the devolution which received its 
 impulfe from the main fpring, I am for a while rcpofmg on thefe happy 
 Ihores of Britain ; but my prayers will never ceale for the profperity of 
 Zion^ and for the furtherance of the miffionary labours, of the com- 
 mencement of which having been a favoured fpedlator, I cannot but 
 indulge the pleafing expeftation of abundant increafc ; and wait, with 
 the multitude of thofe who believe the promifcs will be fulfilled in their 
 feafon, to hear that His kingdom is advancing, who fliall afluredly re- 
 ceive the heathen for his inheritance, and the utmoll parts of the eerth 
 for his pqlleffion. The JLord haften it in his time !
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ►«•»>•« 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IN the following Appendix of mifcellancons matter rcfpcifling the 
 country, its inhabitants, cuftoms, natural hiftory, &c. fliould any 
 thing be advanced apparently different from the preceding rcprefenta- 
 tions of former vifitants, it will be proper to remark, that thefe papers 
 "have been drawn up from, manufcripts attended with every mark of 
 authenticity, and from converfations with a variety of perfons who 
 have been lately on the fpot, and whofe veracity is highly to be rc- 
 ipedled. It muft be obvious to every iiitclligent perfon in learch of 
 information, that Ibme are flruck with one objed; which another over- 
 looks, and that the ftrongeft trait of chara<5lcr and manners is oftea 
 drawn from the fimpleft trifle, which is ready to be difregarded or not 
 mentioned for its feeming infignificance ; and where the fame thing is 
 noticed, inferences may be drawn by one concerning it, of which an- 
 other may entertain a different opinion. We hope, however, on the 
 whole, that the body of information here collcftcd from thefe fources 
 wll be found flrongly corroborative of the truth of the fads in the 
 preceding narrative, and cannot but afford fatisfaClion to the curious 
 and incjulfitlve into the real ftate of men and manners in the ifles of 
 this vafl ocean. We hope, alfo, to be able hereafter to prefcnt a more 
 explicit and full account, if it pleafes God to crown our prefcnt expe- 
 dition with any fimilar fuccefs as the paft : and we cannot but flatter 
 ourfelvcs that the public, on an impartial furvey of what has been 
 
 s s
 
 314 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [ArrENDix.. 
 
 done, will confider the Miffionary Society as among the real benefac- 
 tors to mankind, and fupport an undertaking which God has hitherto 
 fingularly blelled ; and whieh purpofes, as its firft objed:, the divine- 
 glory, and the falvation, temporal and eternal, of thofe whom hitherto 
 no r-ian hath cared for. Names, fedls, and parties, have no place 
 among us— we mean nothing political, partial, or excluiive. One is 
 our mafter, even Chrifl; : we dcfu-e to know and teach nothing but 
 him crucified ; to interfere in no contefl, to diflurb no government 
 cftabliflied, or iatroduce any peculiar modes of religious worflaip, but 
 to leave every man. to the book of truth for his guide, in the fpirit of 
 meeknefs ; to unite in one centre, Jefus Chrift, the fame yefterday, 
 to-day, and for ever ; and to love one another, out of a pure heart, 
 fervently. Time and better information, it is to be hoped, will diffi- 
 pate every prejudice entertained againft fo benevolent an undertaking.
 
 Appendix.] TO THE S0UTII-5EA ISLANDS. Hi 
 
 SECTION l. 
 
 Country. 
 
 THE illcUid of Otahcitc ccnilfts of" two pcninfulas conu<;<^lcd by A 
 low Ifthmus about three miles acrofs, covered with trees and 
 Hirubs, but wholly uncultivated ; though no part of the ifland fccius 
 more capable of improvement, and of admitting the plough if cleared 
 from wood. The larger, Otahcitc Nooe, is about ninety miles in cir- 
 cumference, and nearly circular; the Icifer, orTiaraboo, is about thirty 
 miles. They are divided into a variety of diftrids, in enumerating 
 "which the former reporters diffcr, as probably they arc fubjed; to 
 changes, and divided and fubdividcd by the chiefs among their towhas- 
 and relations. I fhall therefore refer to the map, as containing the 
 ■iatcft and mofl accurate account. The ifland has a border of low land 
 Teaching from the beach to the rifiilg of the hills, in fome places neac 
 a mile, in others hardly a furlong, and in feveral points the mountain.*- 
 abruptly terminate in high cliffs, again which the fea beats, and form 
 difficult paiTages from one diftrid: to another. The foil of the low 
 lands and of the valleys, which run up from the fea between the moun- 
 tains, is remarkably fertile, confifting of a rich blackifli mould covered 
 with bread-frmt, cocoa-nut, plantains, evee apple, the youte, or cloth 
 plant, and many others, which will be hereafter defcribed. The moun- 
 tains afford a great variety of trees of all forts and fi/,es, and arc, in 
 mofl places, covered to their very tops with wood, in others with bam- 
 boos of great length, and in fome by fern and reed, which at a diltancc 
 appear like a fine green lawn. The hills rife very fteep, and fwell into 
 mountains almoft inacceffible ; but every where produdive of plantain5> 
 yams, and a mviltitude of wild roots growing fpontaneoufly, and fome- 
 times ufcd for food. In thefe higher regions only is to be found the 
 precious fandal wood, of two kinds, yellow and dark-coloured ; from 
 whence the natives chiefly draw the perfume for the cocoa-nut oil> 
 •with which they anoint thcmfelvcs. 
 
 The covmtry exhibits a mountainous afped, and rifes very high in 
 Ihe centre ; but it is interfedcd by narrow vallcvs, which receive innu- 
 Tncrable ftreanis from the hills, fome of which fall in beautiful cafcades, 
 and fill the rivers, which meander through them, amidlt the verdant 
 
 s s 2
 
 Sid FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 fcenery, to the fea. During the rainy feafons thefe fwcU into torrents^ 
 and fometimes loofen rocks and trees from the precipices, and carry 
 them down into the valleys, which they overflow, and oecafion much- 
 damage. During the greater part of the year thefe valleys afford a paf- 
 fage from one fide of the ifland to the other, though always difficult 
 •when you afcend the mountains ; but in the rainy feafon this becomes 
 impracticable, and the communication between one dillrift and another 
 is kept up by canoes, which pafs within the reefs in fmooth water witit 
 great facility ; ufmg this precaution only, that as the northernmoft part 
 of the ifland has a ftcep rocky fliore, and in blowing weather the 
 landing is dangerous, thofe who wifli to go to windward proceed in 
 their canoes weftward, where they feldom find the trade wind, and 
 the fea breeze fcts in from the weftward ; the high land obftrufting.- 
 the eafterly wind, and the ifland of Eimco lying in a direftion N. and 
 S. forces 2^ frefli wefterly current up the foutli fide of Otaheite, which 
 wafts the canoes to the ifthmus ; where hauling them acrofs, they are 
 fure of a fair wind home. This is at prefent done on rollers and by 
 ropes ; but a carriage with wheels would wonderfully facilitate the 
 operation : and probably, ere long, a pra(5licable road will be formed- 
 for this purpofe, as has been fuggelled by one of the miflionaries. 
 
 When the trade wind gets far to the fouth, and blows frefli, it ge- 
 ■ nerally rains on the fouth fide of the ifland, bringing the clouds from 
 the mountains of Tiaraboo, and emptying their contents at Pappara. 
 and the adjacent diftritAs. This occafions a great difference in the 
 breSd-fruit feafon between the north and fouth fides of the ifland ; as 
 on the north the rain is lefs frequent and lefs violent, and the trade 
 iwiad conftantly blows,, except when the fun is vertical. Hence the 
 great bread-fruit harveft commences on the northern fide about No- 
 vember, and continues till the end of January ; whilft on the fouth 
 fide, in fomc parts, it begins in January, and continues in different 
 <liftrid;s till November. But though this is the cafe with the general 
 harveft on both fides the ifland, there are fome kinds of bread-fruit, 
 though fcarce, in feafon all the year, cfpecially in the diftrift of Atta- 
 hooroo. The dlflerent fpecics of the fame tree amount to thirty. At 
 our arrival in March we found plenty ; it continued till v\ e left the 
 ifland in Auguft : they faid it would be fcarce for two months at 
 Matavai. 
 
 As foon as you begin to afcend the hills, the foil changes from the 
 
 rich loam into various veins of red, white, dark, yellow, or blucifli 
 
 , earth, clay, '^r marl : in the red are found ftoncs rcfcmbling cornelian
 
 Ari'EKDix.] TO TIffi. SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. Sir 
 
 or flint; but being full of veins, though they will ftrikc fire -with ftcel,- 
 they break on a fccond flroke. The white appears a pipe-clay, or 
 fuller's earth ; the dark, a fine fat mould, probably the decayed parts 
 of vegetable fubftances ; the yellow is mixed with gravel ; the blue a 
 marly fubflance. Thcfc are all found in digging ten or twelve feet, 
 and the under-flratum appears a foft fand-ftone of a brownifli colour, 
 intermixed with hard rock. ■ 
 
 The hills alfo afford a blackifh ftone, which fcems a lava, in pieces 
 eight or ten feet long, and from four to ten inches thick ; of which 
 they formerly made their ftone tools : it is of a fine grain, though not 
 very hard, nor apt tofplinter; which anfwered bcft the purpofes of 
 the natives, as they could thus bring them more eafdy to an edge ; but 
 at every ftroke almoil their adzes required whetting, and two-thirds of 
 their time nearly was employed in this labour. 
 
 The beds of the rivers confift of ftones and gravel ; many of which 
 contain a glaffy fiabllancc, and will melt in a ftrong fire ; others are 
 more infulible, and many are fOund like puniice-ftone. In powder the 
 magnet attrafts many particles. • This, with other high iflands, has 
 evidently a volcanic origin. 
 
 In the difbid of Mata\ ai there is a fmgular cliff, called Peeha ; 
 which one of the miffionaries defcribes as formed of an immenfe 
 number of obkmg pieces of ftone, ftrongly cemented together, and, 
 hanging in a very romantic manner. The cliti is about eighty or 
 ninety feet high, and twice as broad ; at the bottom runs a river, the 
 largeft in the ifland. This is probably bafaltic. 
 
 The mountains are in ibme parts bare and full of precipices, broken 
 as by eurthqjake.s. Tu tho bofom of thofe which bovuid the diflrift of 
 Vyeoredc there is a rem:irkably large frcfh- water lake, called Vyeheerea, 
 which the natives i-dy cannot be lounded with any line, and contains 
 eels of a monftrous fize. On the banks of this lake many inhabitants 
 are Icated, who have plentv of all forts of provifions, except the bread- 
 fruit, for which they fubftitute the mountain plantain. This lake 
 empties itfelf into the valley of Vyeorede. Here alfo they make vaft 
 quantities of a greyilh eloth highly prized, beat from the bark of the 
 mountain floe tree ; and a number of arreoies frequent the place for 
 this purpofe, as they prefer the cloth to any other, and call it oraa. ■ 
 
 The bay of Matavai affords fafe anchorage during eight months of the 
 year, but is dangerous from Dccemxber to March; the bottom is a blackifh 
 fand, from fix to eighteen fathom. The channel between the reef and 
 the Dolphin bank, on which the water is thirteen feet only in the flioaler
 
 318 FIRST IvHSSlONATlY VOYAGE [AppEWDrs:. 
 
 part, extends not more than half a cable's length, but lias twenty-two 
 fathoms of water ; yet, in a weakly manned fhip, t;his paflage feems 
 preferable to paffing to the w^eftward of the bank, as it frequently hap- 
 pens that the wind comes off in fqualk from One Tree hill in a fouthcrn 
 dire(^lion, and often falls into a dead calm; both which may be avoided 
 by keeping the reef clofe aboard, with ten fathoms water, and bringing 
 up where you pleafe, as there is no foul ground to windward of the 
 Dolphin bank, nor any rocks but what arc vifible. The funken rocks, 
 called Toa, the natives know, and are ready to point out. The onljr 
 Jiarbour to the wellward is that of Oparre, called Toa roa, or Long 
 rock. 
 
 Water is convcKient and abvuidartt in all parts d{ the ifland. 
 
 The weather, during our flay, from March till Auguft, was ferene 
 ■and plcafant, the thermometer never fmking lower than 05°, and fel*- 
 ■dom higher than 73*^; and fo cool at night as to make a blanket w^cl- 
 <:ome. When wc came, the weather was a little fqually and rainy, 
 being the end of the rough feafon, which commences fame time in 
 December and lafts till March : during thefe months the wind fre- 
 quently blows hard from the well, with rain, and throws a heavy fweU 
 and furf on the fhorc into Matavai bay ; the reft of the year the wind 
 ■blows from the eaft, but with an alternate land and fea breeze around 
 the ifland, which extends its influence about a league from -the fliore. 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 Govemnrent.-^Ranks hi Society.^— Property, 
 
 THE government of Otaheite is monarchical, and hereditary in onto 
 family ; of this two branches fubfift. Tclnarrc, the fon of Oberea and 
 Oammo, reigned when Wallis fii-ft vifitcd the ifland : he was then a 
 child, and Oberea his mother was regent. Oammo and fhe Lad quar- 
 relled abmat faving the child, which he wiflied to dcftroy ; whether to 
 retain the fovcrcignty longer, or fufpe(!:ling that the child did not be- 
 long t<j him, the lady iK)t being fpuring ot her favours to others. On 
 his acceflion, Oammo iTtired to a private ftation in his own diftrid of 
 Pappiira, and left his wife, an adive woman, in truft W\t\\ the reins of 
 government for her fon. Oammo was fon of Tenae, and elder brothet
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTM-SEA ISLANDS. 319 
 
 of Whiippai, who fince has afTumcd the name of Otey. Whappai's 
 fon Otoo was then u child of fix or fcven years old. Tootaha, their 
 younger brother, was chief of Attahooroo. 
 
 Wars and various changes appear to have preceded the laft grand 
 revolution, when the partifans of Otoo, w ith the affiftance of the mu- 
 tineers, recovered the royal niaro from the men of Attahooroo. lly 
 one of thefe intcftinc wars Temarre, the Tirridirri of Cook, had been 
 previoufly depofed, and Otoo, the prcfent Pomarrc, advanced to the 
 dignity of carcc rnhai. But the chiefs of Attahooroo, Vv-ho, under Too- 
 taha, had been the principals in cffeding this revolution, fcjzcd the re- 
 galia, the royal maro, and the ark of the Eatooa, and. carried them 
 otF to their own dillrid ; and thougli incapable of ufmg them, as not 
 being of the feed royal, they kept pofTcirion of them for the honour of 
 their diflrict ; and having eftabliflicd their warlike charader, none: 
 dared contend with them. To Attahooroo, therefore, on all great fo- 
 lemnities, were all the other chiefs obliged to repair, and were fome- 
 times infulted or plundered by the w\^y. This occafioned continual- 
 difputes ; and the Attahooroo chiefs giving an afylum to all thofc who- 
 fled for crimes from other diftrifts, they became iiich a terror to the. 
 reft, that Temarre, though dethroned and reduced to his pri\ ate patri- 
 mony, as chief of Pappara, joined with Qtooto attack them. 
 
 Tiaraboo alfo had revolted, and fct up at Vayhocadooa. A general 
 war commenced; EimcQ leagvied with Attahooroo; and Maheine 
 (the uncle of Motuaro, king of that ifland, who had married Otoo's- 
 lifter, as Otoo had married his) ufurpcd the right of his nephew, and 
 forced' him to take refuge with his- brother-in-law at Oparrc, juft at 
 the time Cook arrived in 17/4, who fa w the preparations for war, but 
 did not wait its iffue. 
 
 Otoo (now Pomarre), after many conflicis, maintained his autho- 
 rity, though not without fuch defeats as fometimes drove him to the 
 mountains, and almoft annihilated his maritime power. The war ca- 
 noes of Otaheite have nearly difappeared. Ocoo having eultivaxcd the 
 friendfliip of the Eiiropeans, continued to be acknowledged fuprcme 
 chief, though holding a precarious dominion, till the fcttlement of the 
 mutineers at Matuvai. Them he engaged in his intercft ; and as they, 
 could incline the balance to whiche\ er frde they pleafcd, by their- 
 means he vanquiflied Attahooroo, recovered the royalinaro, and cftab- 
 liflied his fon's dominion on a more folid bafis than it had e\er been: 
 before. Motuaro alfo recovered his loft dominion in Eimeo ; and: 
 lengthened the govcrnmeat of his nephew by acknowledging his Car-
 
 32tf FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Apprndix. 
 
 premacy. Pomarre (the name alTumed by the father fince his fon's 
 acceffion to the title of Otoo) continued, as regent, to -manage the 
 afFairs of government ; and by the help of his European friends, the 
 leiTer as well as the greater pcninfula bowed to his dominion, and his 
 flag pafled with reverence through all the diftridls. I'emarre firil paid 
 it due homage, and it proceeded from him through Tiaraboo. It was 
 a union jack, given by the captam ot a vefl'el which had touched there, 
 and decorated with broaft-plates of pearls and red featliers. This was 
 carried to the great morai, where all the chief people of the diflricS 
 attended, and received it with ceremonious reverence, 
 
 Pomarre, from king become the firlt fubjeft of his fbn and regent 
 of the ftate, fupports his fon's dignity with all his weight and influence. 
 Temarre is joined in the ftrid;eU: friendfliip with him, and, having no 
 children, adopted Pomarre 's daughter, flnce dead. Eimeo acknow- 
 ledged the yoimg king's fovereignty ; and his dominion was no where 
 openly refilled, though in Tiaraboo more than one diftrid; ftill appears 
 difcontented. 
 
 As the ceremony of invefting the young king wit'h the royal maro, 
 like a coronation, is a folemnity which few can witnefs, the following 
 account from a fpediator will be interefting : 
 
 Afl"embling at the great morai at Gparre, the maro oora, or red fafti 
 of royalty, recovered from Attahooroo, was laid on the morai: it is 
 made of net-work, and thrummed with red and yellow feathers. The 
 taata orero, the public orator (probably Manne Manne), opened the 
 ceremony with a long fpeech, w:hich fet forth the rightful authority 
 ■of the fon of Pomarre to the royal dignity ; and inveflcd him with the 
 regal cincture. Motuaro, the chief of Eimeo, who had recovered his 
 authority, firil: paid his homage to the young kuig, who was borne on 
 a man's flioulders, and furrounded by all his chieftains. He brought 
 ^ three human vid:ims from Eimeo in his canoes ; from each of which 
 the prieft, fcooping out an eye, prefentcd it to the fovereign on a plan- 
 tain leaf plucked from a young tree in his hand, accompanied with a 
 long ceremonial difcourfe : the bodies w-ere then taken away, and in-- 
 tcrrcd in the morai. The fame ceremony was repeated by every chief 
 in rotation, of the fc\ cral dillri<^ts of Otaheltc, feme bringing one, and 
 fomc two human facrifices, fixc-d on a long pole ; and buried after the 
 prefcntation of the eye. 
 
 The rcafon afligncd for this horrid oblation was, that the head being 
 reputed facrcd, and the eye the moll; precious part, it was to be pre- 
 ■icntcd to the king as the head and eye of the people. During tlie
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 321 
 
 prcfentation the king holds his mouth open, as if devouring it, v/liercby 
 they imagine he receives additional wifdom and dilcernment; and that 
 his tutelar deity prcfidcs, to accept the lacrificc, and, by the commu- 
 nication of the vital principle, to llrengthcn the foul of his royal pupil. 
 Hogs innumerable were llrangled, and immenfe quantities of cl(;th 
 prelentcd. The royal maro, worn only on that day, was dcpofitcd ia 
 .its place at the morai, and the facred canoes, which brought the hu- 
 man facrifices, were hauled up thither. The king and chiefs then de- 
 parted, to devour the hogs, turtle, fowls, fiili, and vegetables prepared 
 for them in the greatcll; profuiion, and to drink their intoxicating yava. 
 The fcalling and heivas laftcd t\\o monthii ; the hogs killed on the 
 occafion were innumerable, the yava abundant ; and more than one 
 of the chiefs paid for their exceffcs with their lives. 
 
 Otoo, the prefent king, is about feventeen, and very large limbed, 
 promifmg to be of a fize like his father. Though he is abfjlutc, he 
 lives in the greateft familiarity with the lovveft of his fubjecls. He is 
 differently rcprefcnted : fomc fay he looks folid, and of a thoughtful 
 afpc<S; ; whilft others call him ftupid, and his countenance vacant. 
 His queen, Tetua, daughter of Wyreedc, relitt of Motuiiro, is about 
 his own age, and rather the larger of the two. Her coimtcnance is 
 pleafmg and open, but mafculine, and widened by the ufual method 
 of prelture, called touroomc. It is confidered as the diftindlive mark 
 of their regal dignity, to be every where carried about on nien's 
 fhoulders. As their perfons arc efteemcd facred, before them all mull 
 uncover below the brcaft ; and from this mark of homage their own 
 father and mother are not exempted. They may not enter into any 
 houfe but their own, bccaufe, from that moment it would become raa, 
 or facred, and none but themfelves, or their train, could dwell or eat 
 there; and the land their feet touched would be their property ; there- 
 fore, though they often came off to the fliip, ate what was handed down 
 to them, and baled the w atcr out of their own canoe, .they would never 
 come on board ; and w hen they daily vifited our mifiionary houfe, 
 they never came farther than the door. Yet this had not been the 
 cafe with the father, when king, who freely entered the fhip, and vi- 
 fited our people on fhore : perhaps fome ceremony is yet to pafs, when 
 the king comes to a more advanced age, when he will have the fame 
 liberty. 
 
 The king and queen were always attended by a number of men, 
 as carriers, domcftics, or favourites, who were raa, or facred, living 
 withovit families, and attending only on the royal pair ; and a worfe 
 
 T T
 
 322 . FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 fet of men the whole ifland does not afford for thiever)'-, plunder, and 
 impurity. 
 
 The queen has had as yet no child, nor is it likely Ihe fliould pro- 
 duce any, as, if the reports our miffionarics have received are true, flic 
 is a perfed Meflalina, and lives in a promifcuous intercourfe with all 
 her porters. 
 
 The mode of carrying the king ami queen is with their legs hanging 
 down before, feated on the llioulders, and leaning on the head of their 
 carriers, and very frequently amufmg thcmfelves with picking out the 
 vermin, which there abound. It is the fmgufar privilege of the queen, 
 that, of all women, Ihe alone may eat them ; which privilege Ihe never 
 fails to make ufe of On their own lands they fometimcs condefcend 
 to ali2;ht, and walk ; but feldom move far w'ithout their porters. 
 Amon'g thcfe attendants is to be found one of the fuigular curiofities of 
 the ifland, a native of a complexion quite different from his fellows;, 
 reddilli, and of a Svvedifli call of countenance, and his hair white and 
 fine as flax. There are a few others fomething hmilar, like the white- 
 negroes, an anomalous breed. 
 
 The next in rank to the king is his own father, Pomarre, who adls 
 as regent for hisfon. He is reprcfented as of very amiable manners, and 
 peculiarly attached to us. He is the largefh man on the ifland, being 
 above fix feet four inches high, and ftrong built. Our ,tallefl: men in 
 the fliip hardly reached his flioulders ; and he would weigh againft 
 three or four ; yet is no warrior, and in military prowcfs exceeded by 
 his wife Iddeah, a woman of a mofl: mafculine appearance and difpo- 
 fition. They live together in great harmony, though they have ceafed 
 to cohabit. He firft took her younger fifler to wife, and then another 
 •woman ; and llie has a fervant of her own, by whom flic has had more 
 children than one, all of wdiom have been murdered, flie being now a 
 member of the arreoy fociety. 
 'The next in dignity arc the chiefs in the fcveral dlfiritfts : fome of 
 whom are fupreme in more than one diftrid, and exercife in their own 
 territories all regal power, yet ftill fubjed to Otoo as fovereign para- 
 mgunt, and liable to be called upon for afllftancc : thefe, alio, have 
 houfcs and lands in many dillrids, which, as they cannot occupy 
 thcmfelves, they commit to the care of fuperintendants, called mediums, 
 or give them to their tayos, w^ho enjoy all the ufufruits without being 
 called to any accoimt, and fharc them with the chiefs, when they 
 come to rcfide thcmfelves. 
 Next to thcfe are the towhas, the near relations, or younger brothers,.
 
 Api'Endix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 9ts 
 
 or tayos, of the chiefs: and if there are more chiefs than one, the 
 difiiid is divided into different padtdoos, or pariflies, and each of the (b 
 have towhas under him. 
 
 The next rank is tlie ratirra, or gentleman, who lias one portion to 
 the towha's three. Thefe fmallcr ellatcs are called rahoe, from the 
 power the ratirra has to lay a prohibition on his own land, or on any- 
 particular fort of provifion, as well as the towha on his portion, and 
 the chief on the whole ; but this power, though fomctimes abuJcd, is 
 tifually employed after a great conliimption of provifions, or to accu- 
 mulate them for fomc magnificent fcall. The principal objcdsof the 
 rahoe are hogs, though fometimes it extends alfo to other ibrts of pro- 
 vifions ; as when they find the flicll-fifli fcarce on the reefs, the ratirra 
 can rahoe his portion, w^hich is done by flicking up at the extremities of 
 it two branches of a tree, to which a white cloth is attached : and no 
 perfon dares filh there whilft thcie remain. When the rahoe is taken 
 off, and the offering of a hog and fifh is made, the place is again free, 
 and a feafl given by the perfon who put on the rahoe : this is called 
 oroa ; and bcfides fcafting the guefls, it is cxpe<^led that he ihould 
 prefent them with large quantities of cloth : fbmc of this is thrown to 
 the populace to fcramble for, which makes fport, the cloth being torn, 
 into ribbands ; and however fmall, they prefer it to a larger piece, 
 which they might have for afking : thefe narrow flips they wear as 
 favours in hontmr of the feafl. The young men wreflle, the women 
 dance, and the feafl is often prolonged feveral days. 
 
 When fuch a feafl is made by a chief on taking off the rahoe from 
 a whole diflrid:, it is called towroa ; then larger quantities of cloth, 
 live hogs, bamboos of oil, and c\cn canoes, are gi\en to be fcrambled 
 for. At thefe greater entertainments moft of the chiefs of the ifjand 
 are prefent, a afl numbers of the arreoies, and all defcriptions of people. 
 The tovsroa rcfembles a country fair, to which every one who goes 
 brings home fomething to fhow where he has been, with this differ- 
 ence, that here it cofts them nothing; and befides the fport of the 
 herroo, they arc feafled all the time. Hogs innumerable are drefTed 
 on this occafion ; and a llranger would fuppofe c\ery one on the ifland 
 had been coUetfed. The cloth and canoes feldom fall to the fliare of 
 the fame pcrfbn, but are mollly rent in pieces; and he who gets the 
 largcft piece is the beft man. If feveral of a family feize and carry off 
 the canoe, it is their own ; and he who firff catches the hog, carries 
 it home. 
 
 The things a.ppointed for this fport are all brought together in aijL 
 
 T T 2 .
 
 524 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Append ix, 
 
 open fpace. The chiefs men hold the hogs faft, till the prieft has 
 made a long prajer on the occafion : at the conclufion of it he throws 
 a young plantain into one of the canoes, which ftand in a row, with 
 mafts erected to fpread the cloth, and hang the bamboos of oil ; im- 
 mediately on this fignal, the hogs, goats, and fowls, are let loofe, and 
 the young men and women begin the chafe, which, continues a con- 
 liderable time before all are caught, and affords many a laughable inci- 
 dent : after this, the prefents are given, and the feall fcrved up. 
 Wreftling and dancing occupy a part of every day and night w hile the 
 feafl continues. 
 
 They have other feafts, held at the ratirra's moral, called oboo noe, 
 where they meet in fmaller companies, baking a hog, and eating it 
 on the fpot ; and if not cleared the firll: day, they muft come the 
 fecond, or the third, as none muft be removed from the moral. The 
 chief of the padtdoo, and the priefts, are always invited on thefe occa- 
 lions ; and if abfent, a portion is put by for them till they arrive, which 
 tliey feldom fail to do. If the chief does not come, the priefts are 
 entitled to his portion. At this feaft no woman, nor any of her male 
 attendants, can be prefent, or partake of it. At all thefe they brew 
 plenty of yava ; and they who can get it, drink it greedily. 
 
 When the hog is taken from the oven, the prieft offers a long 
 prayer, and on a plantain-leaf collecfls a fmall portion of all the pro- 
 vifions, with a bit of yava root, placing them on the altar, as an obla- 
 tion to the Eatooa. The hog is then divided into as many Ihares as 
 perfons ; each eats as much as he pleafes, and puts the remainder into 
 a bafket, covered with leaves, till he returns to finifla his portion. If 
 a flranger pafTes by at the time, he is always invited to partake, pro- 
 vided he declares himfelf raa, or a clean perfon ; if not, he refiifes, nor 
 dare they tell a lie ; for Ihould the impofition be dete6led, death only 
 could expiate the offence. 
 
 The women and their fervants have their feparate feafts alfo, called 
 oehumoo. Thefe are generally of fifh, and not kept on facred ground. 
 Any man who is invited may partake with them. 
 
 The loweft clafs in fociety, after the rattira, is the manahoune ; they 
 cultivate the land, and molt refemble our cottagers : fome are raa, oi- 
 hallowed ; and others common or unclean. Thefe hold under the 
 towhas and ratirras, anfwer all their demands to the beft of their ability, 
 make cloth for them, build their houfcs, or affill in any laborious work 
 required of them ; yet their vaffalage compels no conftant fcrvice or 
 refidence : they may change chiefs, and go to another diftridl.
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 325 
 
 The fcrvants of whatever clafs arc called ioulcm ; and fuch as wait 
 wholly on the women, tuti ; nor Is it uncommon to find young men 
 of the firft families fo dcbafed ; lh')u;i,h by fuch feminine fcrvice they 
 become excluded from all rclij^ious lulemnities. 
 
 Tlierc yet remains a fct of men of the mod execrable caft, called 
 niahoos, afftding the manners, drefs, gcllures, and voice of females, and 
 too horrid to be defcribed. 
 
 In the fcale of rank, birth enjnvs fuigular dillinction. A chief is 
 always a chief; and though expelled from his command, lofmg his 
 dillridt, or having his honours transferred to his child, he continues 
 noble and refpcAcd ; on the other hand, no acquifition can raife a 
 common man to a higher ftation than that of tow ha, or rattira ; yet 
 the meaneft arc In no ilavifli dependence. The honour and refpcift 
 which they pay their chief. Is rather through force of cuflom than . 
 the fear of punifliment. They are admitted as their companions on all 
 occafions, and treated with perfed; freedom.; Indeed, in outnard ap- 
 pearance they can hardly be dillingulfhed. The king is not averfe to 
 converfe with the loweft of his fubje(5ls, or to be their vlfitor ; and 
 never treats them with hauteur. His retinue Is often changing ; no 
 man ferves him longer than he pleafes. They have, no wages, nor 
 engage for any ftated time, though fome remain in the fame family all 
 their lives; and thefe ancient dumellics arc as much refpe<fted as their 
 own relations, giving diredions to the yoimgcr branches, and . ma- 
 naging, as flewards, the affairs of the houfehold without control. 
 
 All are friendly and generous, even to a fault ; they hardly refufe any 
 thing to each other, if Importuned. Their prefcnts are liberal, even 
 to profusion. Poverty never makes a man contemptible ; but to be 
 affluent and covetous Is the greatefl fhame and reproach. Should any 
 man betray fymptoms of Incorrigible avarlcioufncfs, and refufe to part 
 with what he has In a time of necelTity, his neighbours would foou 
 defl:roy all his property and put him on a footing with the pooreflj 
 hardly leaving him a houfc to cover his head. They will give their, 
 clothes from their back, rather than be called peere peere, or ftingy, 
 
 Refpeding property, they have no writing or records, but memor)' 
 and landmarks. Every man knows his own ; and he would be thought 
 of all charadlers the baf'efl, who fliould attempt to Infringe on his 
 neighbour, or claim a foot of land that did not belong to him, or his 
 adopted friend ; for the tavo may ufe It during his friend's lifetime, 
 and If he has no child, pofTefs It at his death. 
 
 If a man bet^ueaths his property to another on his death-bed, no
 
 326 FIPxST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [AppE^'Drx. 
 
 perfon dirputes the bequefl, as there are always witneffes abundant to 
 the gift, if the heir is not prefent. The landmarks fet by their anccf- 
 tors, the father points out to the fon or lieir ; and fhould any difpute 
 arife, through their decay or removal, multitudes know where they 
 flood, and the matter is in general eafily fettled, Indeed it is much 
 the fame in all litigations ; the cafe is referred to a by-llandcr, and the 
 party which he declares in the wrong fubmits, and makes the other a 
 peace-offering of the plantain-ftalk. Men icldom or never fight in con- 
 fequcnce of any perfonal quarrel. If any matter of ferious oflence is 
 given, the whole family or difirldl take it up, and go to war with 
 their adverfliries ; but if the/ chufe no: to fight, a peace-offering mufl 
 be made, which is never ret'ufed ; if they wdl fight, the weakcft mufl 
 fufFer; and as all the relations adopt the quarrel, there is fometimes 
 much bloodflied, and it frequently leads to a general war. Such broils, 
 indeed, arc fumctimcs produced by what appears to us a very trifling 
 matter; fuch as fcurrilous words fj^oken againll: the heir of a large 
 cflatc, or even of a fraall one ; negle6l of proper rcfpeft to a child, and^ 
 other things as trivial ; for inflance, as the child from the moment of 
 its birth becomes the head of the family, the boundaries of his land are 
 new marked with rude images ; and if this new-born infant be a 
 towha, or ratirra, a number of little flags are fet up in different parts of 
 the boundary ; to thefc all perfons of inferior rank mufl uncover them- 
 felves as they pafs, whether by day or by night ; and Ihould this m.ark 
 of homage be contemptuoufly negleded, the mother flies to the flrark's 
 teeth and cuts herfelf, and the party muft make his peace-oticring with 
 the plantain : fhould this be refufed, the father and mother would tear 
 olT the clothes from his back, and well drub him into the bargain. 
 The friends and relations on both fides fometimes arm, and fatal con- 
 fequences follow. Even a chief has been know n to be driven from his 
 diflrift on account of a difpute originating about a poor man's child 
 fuppofed to be affronted by one of the fame rank with himlcif 
 
 The famous, or rather infamous arrcoy fociet}-, confifting of noble 
 perfons in general, have alfo different ranks among themfelves, like our 
 frccmafons, known by the manner of their tattooing. The highefl are 
 called ava' bly areema tatowe ; the next, areema biy; the third, ahow- 
 hoa; the fourth, harrotea ; the fifth, c'otc ole; the flxth and fcventh, 
 po, and mo, youths trainin^^ up.
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 327 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 Inhah'ttmits. — Men, Women, and Qh'ildrcn. — Abodes. 
 
 THE natural colour of the inhabitants is olive, inclining to copper. 
 Sonic arc very dark, as the fifliermcn, who arc moft expofcd to the fun 
 and fca ; but the women, who carefully clothe themfelves, and avoid', 
 the fun-beams, are but a fliade or two darker than an European bru- 
 nette. Their eyes arc black and Iparkling ; their teeth white and c\en ; 
 their fkin foft and delicate; their limbs finely turned ; their hair jetty, 
 perfumed, and ornamented with flowers ; but wc did not think their 
 features beautiful, as, by continual preflure from infancy, which they- 
 call touroome, they widen the face with their hands, diftend their 
 mouth, and flatten the nofe and forehead, whicli gives them a too maf- 
 cullnc look ; and they are in general large, and wide over the fliouldefs ; 
 we were therefore difappointed in the judgment we had formed from 
 the report of preceding vifitors ; and though here and there was to be 
 feen a young pcrfbn w ho might be cfteemed comely, wc faw few who, 
 in fad could be called beauties ; yet they poflefs eminent feminine 
 graces : tiicir faces are never darkened with a fcowl, or covered with a 
 cloud of fullcnncfs or fufpicion. 
 
 Their manners are aflable and engaging ; their flep eafy, firm, and 
 graceful ; their behaviour free and unguarded ; always boundlefs in 
 generofity to each other, and to flrangers ; their tempers mild, gentle, 
 and unatfeded ; flow to take offence, cafily pacified, and feldom re- 
 taining refcntmcnt or revenge, Avhatever provocation they may have 
 received. Their arms and hands are very delicately formed ; and 
 though they go barefoot, their feet are not coarfe and fpreading. 
 
 As in all warm climates, the women in general here come earlie 
 to puberty, and fade fooner, than in colder and more northern coun- 
 tries ; though in fome the features continue little changed even to gray 
 hairs ; and v, hat is remarkable, fome are faid to fade, and revive again, 
 retaining their comelincfs beyond thole who have not experienced liich 
 a change. Many, indeed, who lead a diflolute life, receive their im- 
 mediate punifliment, and are old and haggard at thirty ; whilil others,, 
 who have lived more decently, or, at leafl:, have been lefs profligate,, 
 ictain all the fprightlinefs and vigour of youth at fifty.
 
 525 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 As w'n-es, in private life, they arc affedionate, tender, and obedient 
 to their huibands, and uncommonly fond of their children: they nurfc 
 them with the utmoft care, and are particularly attentive to keep the 
 infant's limbs fupple and ftraight. A cripple is hardly ever fcen among 
 them in early life. A rickctty child is never known ; any thing re- 
 fembling it would reflect; the higheft difgrace on the mother. If ^n 
 utter Itranger difcovers the leall defed; in a child, he makes no fcruple 
 to blame the mother, and imputes it to her want of fcnfe and expe- 
 rience in nurfuig : fo that if the child is not born radically defeftive, 
 "which is feldom the cafe, they will mould it into a proper fliape. A 
 perfon knock-kneed, or bow-legged, is fcarcely to be found : in the 
 whole illand we faw only three hump-backed boys, in three different 
 dilhids. 
 
 The men in general arc above our common fizc ; but the chiefs a 
 larger race, few of them fliort of fix feet high ; and Pomarre four or 
 five inches higher, and proportionably bulky. They carry their age 
 well ; and are healthy and vigorous at a very advanced time of life, 
 if not infedled with difeafe : iuch are Otey, the grandfather of Otoo, 
 and Manne Manne, the high-prieft, and others. The exacfl amount 
 of their years can only be coUedted from circumftances, as they keep 
 no regular computation of time ; yet from events which they relate, a 
 pretty accurate calculation may be formed. Many were alive in 179I 
 ■who remembered the lofs of one of Roggewein's fquadron at an ifland 
 north of Otaheite, in 1722. 
 
 The drefs of both fexes is nearly the fame, excepting that the men 
 -wear a narrow piece of cloth, which, paffing round the waift, goes be- 
 tween the thighs, and is tucked in before, named the marro, and may 
 be called their breeches. An oblong piece, like a piece of printed ca- 
 lico, not a yard wide, with a hole in the middle to admit the head, 
 hangs down before and behind, with the fides open, falling loofe as 
 low as the knees, and leaving the arms quite uncovered : this is the 
 tebdota. A fquare piece of cloth, doubled, of any fize fufficient to 
 pafs once and a half round the waift of the men, and above the breafts 
 of the women, under the taboota, is called paru : this falls down only 
 to the knees of the man, but to the mid-leg, and often to the ankles 
 of the woman ; and is Ibmetimes tucked in at the corner, or con- 
 fined by a girdle of cloth, plaited hair, or fine matting, called 
 tatdooa. The women, befides, often wear a piece of cloth, ahhoo, 
 fquare, or oblong, folded, which they throw taftily over all, by way of 
 cloak ; this is generally of white cloth, and very fine. The other gar-
 
 \riKNDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS, 329 
 
 mcnts arc of what colours they fancy moft. Inflcad of the marn>, 
 worn by the men, tlic women have a fmallcr paru, beneath the larger, 
 as an under-petticoat. 
 
 When travelling, they ufually tuck up the parii, to prevent its bcin^ 
 foiled or dirty. If iK-rfons of rank appear v. ith more than tlic ordinary 
 t}uantity of cloth around them, this is defigned for a prcfcnt; and thcj 
 generally honour the pcrlbn for whom it is intended with winding it 
 round him with their own hands. 
 
 The women uncover their Ihoulders and brcafr.s m the prcfencc of a 
 chief, or on palling the facrcd ground. Their bonnets rcfemblc the 
 green ihades which our ladies ufe In fummer : they are- often changed, 
 QS they mull call; them away on paffing the moral : but they are re- 
 placed in a minute by plaiting, or weaving, the leaves of the cocoa- 
 nut ; and for this they prefer the bright yellow leaves to the green ones. 
 The turban drefs and tamou arc never worn by the women but at the 
 hcivas, and are called taao oopo. Both fcxcs wear garlands of flowers 
 and feathers, but no Avig, or artificial coiffure. The tamou is made 
 from the hair of their departed relatives, and held in the highclt efti- 
 mation : it is feldom compofcd of more than fix or nine hairs in thick- 
 nefs, but is often five or fix fathoms long. They fometimcs dref< with 
 a garland of cocoa-nut fibres, ornamented with bits of pcarl-(hell, and 
 the nails of the thumb and finfrers of their dcceafcd relations: thefe 
 they ufe as mourning, and coniider as very precious relics. The wo- 
 men have no moral, nor appropriate place of worfliip ; nor are they 
 ever prefent at their folemnitles ; ncvcrthelelS they fuppofc they fhall 
 be admitted to happinefs with the Eatoo, as well as the men. 
 
 In the tattooing of men and women there is a fmall fpot on the 
 infide of each arm, jufl: above the elbow, which is a mark of diflinc- 
 tion, and fhews that fuch a perfon may eat or touch his father's and 
 mother's food, without rendering it raa, or lacred ; it is a fort of feal, 
 that all the amoas have been performed. This is generally received 
 when the head is made free, which is the lafh amoa, except that of 
 friendfliip and marriage. The man who does the tattooing to young 
 or old, is called at the plcafure of the parties, and no conftraint is ever 
 ufed. The young perfons will not faffer him to leave off while they 
 can endure the flrokc of the inrtrumcnt, though they make cries and 
 lamentations as if he was killing them. The eirls arc alwavs ac- 
 tended by fome female relations, who hold them while ftrugghng under 
 the pain of the operation, encouraging them to cry out, which they 
 think helps to alleviate the anguifli. When the pain becomes excef- 
 
 V u
 
 330 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Aitendix. 
 
 five, and tliey fay they can endure no more, they ufe no compulfioiy. 
 No perfon ever lifts his hand CA"cn to llnke a child : on the contrary, 
 the young girls under the operation will often itrike thofe w ho com- 
 pafTionate them, and wifli them to fufpend the operation, as they are 
 never efteemed women till the \\holc is finiflied : this fometimes lafts 
 for a year, or more, by intervals, from the commencement of the tat- 
 tooing. 
 
 No where are children brought into the world with lefs pain or 
 danger : the women fubmit to little or no confinement within doors, 
 but rife and go abovit as ufual. The infant prefently crawls, and foon 
 begins to walk, and almofh as foojn to fwim. They run about entirely 
 naked, and are remarkably healthy and a6live. 
 
 They are generally acquainted with the art of converfing by figns,. 
 either in public or private, and pcrfe6l mafters of the language of the 
 eyes. 
 
 Their voice and fpeech are foft and harmonious. Their dialeft is 
 the Italian of the South Seas, abounding with vowels, and expelling 
 every harfh and guttural found from their alphabet : this coniilis only 
 of feventeen letters, with which they exprefs themfelves \\ith great fa- 
 cility and precifion. Their pronouns are a llriking inllance of this : 
 thefc are different according to the number of perfons fpokcn of: we, 
 two only — zt'e, two out of three in company — ur, an indefinite num- 
 ber, have each a different pronovm fpecifically marking the perfons ; 
 and it is the fame in the others, both perfonal and poffcffivc ; a fmgu- 
 larity perhaps unknown to any other language. C gj k q s x z they 
 can hardly articulate, or pronounce a word into the compofition of 
 which thefe letters enter. 
 
 In general, the ingenuity of all their works, confidering the tools 
 they poifcfs, is marvellous. Their cloth, clubs, filling implements.-, 
 canoes, houfcs, all difplay great fkill : their mourning drclfes, their 
 war head-drefs and breali-plntes, fhew remarkable taftc : their adjuft- 
 ment of the different parts, the cxad: I3 mmctry, the nicety of the 
 joining, are admirable : and it is aflonifliing how they can with fuch 
 cafe and quickncfs drill holes in a pearl-fliell with a fhark's tooth, and 
 fo fine as not to admit the point of a common pin. 
 
 The men are excellent judges of the Mcather from the appearance 
 of the fky and wind, and can often forctel a change fome days before 
 it takes place. When they are going to any diftant ifland, and lofe 
 fight of land, they fleer by fun, moon, and flars, as true as we do by 
 compafs. They have names for many of the fixed flars, and know
 
 Apitndix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 331 
 
 their time of ni'mg and fctting with conlidcrable prccifion : and, \\ hat 
 is more fmgular, their names and the account of them rereinblc, in 
 many inftances, the Grecian fables : they have the twins, or two chil- 
 dren, their Caftor and Pollux, &c. 
 
 Their year confifts of thirteen months. They calculate by the luna- 
 tions of the moon, and by the fun paffing and repafling over their 
 heads. They pretend to foretel when the rains will fet in, and whether 
 they v\ill be more or lei's violent than common, and prepare accord- 
 ingly. Tiiey know the feafuns for particular iifh, and get ready ; when 
 the bread-fruit will come in feafon ; and whether the harvert will be 
 plentiful or fcanty, late or early. The day and night are divided into 
 twelve equal parts, and tliey gucfs pretty exactly what the hour is by 
 the fun and liars. 
 
 They reckon in numbers from one to ten, then add m, before each 
 number till thcv reach 20, reckoning onward thus : attahai 1 , ahooroo 
 10; m,attahai 11, &c. ; taoo 20, attahai, taoo 21 ; and fo on to five, 
 ereema taoo, five twenties, or 100. But at calculation they are no 
 adepts. 
 
 They compute dillances by the time it takes to pafs from one place 
 to another. They mcafurc their fiftiing-lines by the fathom, or ipan, 
 and found depths of water as accurately as ourfelves. 
 
 The common dwellings are about eighteen feet in tlic ridge-tree, 
 oblong, and rounded at the ends. The furniture confifts of a few 
 wooden trays and llools for making their puddings, pofls to hang their 
 bafkets of difFerent forts to flore their provifions, a large chcll on which 
 the mailer and miflrefs of the houfc often fleep, or on the floor fprcad 
 with matting and cloth, and covered with tlie fame; frecjuently they 
 employ a canoe-houfe jull fufficient lor their length, and too low for 
 them to Hand ered. : and fbmetimes a bedflead : many in fine weather 
 fleep in the open air. Their pillow is a little wooden llool, neatly 
 wrought out of one block ; and they who have no fuch, take the ftool 
 they fit upon in their canoes. Their ufual feat is the ground, crofs- 
 legged ; but they have feats with which they are always ready to com- 
 pliment a flrangcr. The unmarried women fleep next their parents, 
 and occupy one end of the houle ; the unmarried men the other. The 
 l'er\ants ufually fleep in the women's eating houfe, or near it. 
 
 Their houfes arc full of fleas, which harbour in the floor, and arc 
 very troublefome ; though the natives are much lels aflcd;ed by them 
 than we are : they fay they were brought to them by the Europeans. 
 One of our mifTiouaries writes, he has been obliged to get up at niid- 
 
 u U 2
 
 333 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. . 
 
 niffht, and to run into the fea to cool hlmfelf, and to e:et rid of the 
 fwarm of difagreeable companions. This, among other caufcs, has 
 made the call for bedfteads great, as they find the comfort of this mode 
 offlceplng. Their bed-clothes are the garments they wear, if they 
 have no other, which is frequently the cafe with the common people 
 and fervants, who, in that warm climate, little trouble themfelves 
 about clothes or the care of them. 
 
 They have no partitions in their houfes ; but, it may be affirmed, 
 they have in many inftances more refined ideas of decency than our- 
 felves ; and one, long a refident, fcitxples not to declare, that he never 
 faw any appetite, hunger and thirfh excepted, gratified in public. It 
 is too true, that for the fake of gaining our extraordinary curiofities, 
 and to plcafe our brutes, they have appeared immodeft in the extreme. 
 Yet they lay the charge wholly at ovir door, and fay that Engliihmen 
 are afhamed of nothing, and that we have led them to public acls of 
 indecency never before praftifed among themfches. Iron here, more 
 precious than gold, bears down every barrier of reflraint : honefty and 
 modefty yield to the force of temptation. 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 Deifies of the South Seas. 
 
 THOUGH the world was at firft of one fpeech and one religion, 
 all confeflTuig Jehovah in triune cxillence, the true tradition began foon 
 to be obfcured. On the difperfion of mankind, gods many and lords 
 many were created. The Eall, amidlt its thovifand deities, fLill prcferved 
 fome traces of the triune God. Whoever reads the ingenious Mr. 
 Maurice's account of India will receive fingularly cvirious information 
 on this fubjeft. However abfurd the notions of deity and creation 
 may appear, now retained by the Otaheiteans, the moll polifl>cd na- 
 tions of Greece and Home devoutly embraced equal abfurdities. It 
 fhould afibrd matter of great thankfulncfs, that we have been refcued 
 from the darkncfs of idolatry. So far at leaft hath the world been 
 indebted to Chriftianity, that wherever this hath prevailed, before it 
 every idol hath mouldered into dull. 
 
 The deities of Otaheite are nearly as numerous as the perfons of the
 
 Api'endix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 333 
 
 inhabitants. Every family has its lee, or guardian fpirit, whom they 
 fet up, and woriliip at the morai : but they have a great god or gods 
 ot'afupcrior order, denominated Fwiianow Po, born of night. 
 
 The general name for deity, in all its ramifications, is Eatooa. 
 
 Three are held lupreme ; ftanduig in a height of celcftial dignity 
 that no others can approach unto ; and what is more extraordinary, the 
 names arc perfonal appellations : 
 
 1. Tane, tc Medooa, 
 
 tJu- Father. 
 
 2. Oromattow, 'Tooa tee te Myde, 
 
 God ill the Son. 
 
 3. Taroa, Miinnoo tc Hooa, 
 
 tlie Bill/, the Spirit. 
 
 To thefe, the dii majorcs, they only addrefs their prayers in times of 
 grcatclt diilrefs, and feafons of peculiar exigency, fuppofmg them too 
 exalted to be troubled with matters of lefs moment than the illnefs of 
 a chief, ftorms, devaftations,. war, or any great calamity. Indeed, fear 
 and fuffcring feem to be more motives to worlhip tlian gratitude. 
 The houfe of thefe fv\'hanow^ po is at Opiirrc, where the chief earie 
 rahie refides. 
 
 The following names of other gods are colledled : Orohho, Otoo, 
 Tamaharro, Tey'eree, Orouhatoo, Oehahovv, Tamma, Toaheite, Va- 
 veali . 
 
 For general worfliip they have an inferior race, a kind of dii pcnates. 
 Each family has its fee or guardian fpirit : he is fuppofed to be one of 
 their departed relatives, -who, for his fuperior excellencies, has been ex- 
 alted to an eatooa. They fuppofe this fpirit can infhdl ficknefs or re- 
 move it, and preferve them from a malignant deity w ho alfo bears the 
 name of tee, and is always employed in mifchief. 
 
 They have a tradition, that once in their anger the great gods broke 
 the whole world into pieces ; and that all the illands around them are 
 but little parts of what was once venooa noe, the great land, of which 
 their own illand is the eminent part. A curious converfation held with 
 Manne Manne, the high priell, and Taata Orero, the orator and oracle 
 of the country for tradition, is as follows, interpreted by the Swede 
 Andrew : 
 
 In the beginning, Tane took Tarda, and begat A\ye, frcfli water ; 
 Atyc, or Te Myde, the fea ; alfo Awa, the water-fpout ; Matai, the 
 wiad ; Arye, the fky ; and Po, the night ; then Mah.^nna. the fun,
 
 334 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendik. 
 
 in the ihapc of a man called Oeroa Tcibooa : whea he was bora, a!! 
 his brethren and filters turned to earth ; onby- a daughter was left, hy 
 name Townoo ; Ihe became the wife of Oeroa Tabooa, by whom fliv^ 
 conceived thirteen children, who are the thirteen mouths: 1. Papecrce; 
 2. Ownoonop; 3 . Paroromooa ; 4. Paroromoree ; 5. Moorceha ; 0. 
 Heaiha; 7.Taoa; 8. HooTororera ; y. Hooreeama ; 10. Tcayre ; 11. 
 Tetai; 12. Waeaho ; 13. Wcaha. 
 
 Townoo now retvirned to earth, and Oer5a Tabdoa embraced a rock 
 called Poppoharra Harreha, which conceived a fon named Tetooboo 
 amata hatoo ; after which the rock returned to its original ftate, and 
 the father of the months himfelf died, and went to dull. The fon he 
 left embraced the land of the lea, which conceived a fon of the name 
 of Tee, and a daughter called Opeera ; then he alio died, and returned 
 to the cartii. Tee took his filler Opeera to wife, who produced a 
 daughter Ohccra, Reene, Moonoa ; the mother died, and the father 
 furvived : in her illnefs Ihe entreated her hufband to cure her, and Ihc 
 would do the fame for him if he fell fick, and thus they might live 
 for ever ; but the hufband refufed, and preferred her daughter, whom, 
 on her deceafe, he took for his wife. The daughter bore him three 
 fons cUid three daughters: the fons, Ora, Wanoo, T) tory ; the daughters, 
 Henuatoomorrooroo, Henaroa, Noowya. The fatlier and mother 
 dying, the brothers laid. Let us take our fillers to wife, and become 
 many. So men began to multiply upon the earth. 
 
 E.efpe61:ing a future ftate, they luppofe no perfon periflics or becomes 
 cxtinft. They allow no punilhment after death, but degrees of emi- 
 nence and felicity, as nien have been here moll plcaling to the deity. 
 They regard the fpirits of their ancellors, male and female, as exalted 
 i-nto eatooas, and their favour to be fecured by prayers and offerings. 
 Every ficknefs and untoward accident they clleem as the hand of Judg- 
 ment for fomc offence committed; and therefore, if they have injured 
 any perfon, they fend their peace-offering, and make the matter up : 
 and if fick, fend for the prieft to ofrer up prayers and facrifices to pacify 
 the offended eatooa ; giving anything the priells alk, as being very 
 reludant to die. But if they find their cafe defperate, they take lea^'e 
 of their friends, and commend them to the guardian fpirits, exhorting 
 them to be more careful of offending them than tliey themfelves had 
 been. When the fpirit departs from the body, they have a notion it 
 is fvvallowed by the eatooa bird, who frequents their burying-places and 
 morais ; and paffes through him in order to be purified, and be united to
 
 AvPEN-iHx.j TO THE SOUTIT-SEA ISLANDS. 335 
 
 the deity. And fuch arc aftcrwarcls employed by him to attend other 
 human beings, and to infiltl pui'.ilhment, or remove ficknefs, as flial! 
 be judged reqiiifite. 
 
 Tlie evil demon named Tec. has no po\vcr but \ipon earth ; and this 
 he cxercifcs by getting into them v/ith their ibod, andcaufing madncfs 
 or other diieales ; but thefe they imagine their tutelar faints, ifjiropi- 
 tious, can prevent or remove. 
 
 They believe the ftars were the children of the fun and moon, at- 
 tributing every fubftancc to procreative po\\er ; and when the fim and 
 moon are eclipfed, they fuppofc them in the acfl of copvdalion ; and 
 pretend to forctel, from their appearance at fuch times, the future 
 e\ cnts of war, ficknefs, or the like. 
 
 They imagine when a ftar fhoots (as wc call it), it is the Eatooa : 
 that in the moon there is a vaft country with trees and fruits: that a 
 bird of Otaheite once flew \ip thither, and ate of the fruit ; and orx 
 his return, dropped forac of tlie feeds,, from which a great tree fprang, 
 of which the bird ftill eats, and of no other. 
 
 With regard to their worfhip, Captain Cook docs the Otaheiteans 
 but juftice in- faying, the y reproach many who bear the name of Chrif- 
 tian. You fee no inllances of an Otahcitcan drawing near the Eatooa 
 with carcleflnefs and inattention ; he is all dc\ otion ; he approaches 
 the place of v\orfhIp with reverential awe ; imcovers when he treads 
 on facrcd ground ; and pva}s with a fervour that would do honour to 
 a better profcfTion-. He firmly credits the traditions of his anceflors. 
 None dares dilpute the exigence of deity. They p\it great confidence 
 in dreams, and iuppofe in fleep the foul leaves the body under the care 
 of the guardian angel, and moves at large through the regions of fpirits. 
 Thus they fay. My foul was fuch a night in fuch a place, and faw fuch 
 a fpirit. When a pcrfon dies, they fay his fo\il is fled away, I.arre pc^ 
 gone to night. It is fmgular, that Pomarre declared to the miffionaries 
 that he had, before their arrii-al, been dreaming about thtfpcak'mg booh, 
 which they Ihould bring from the Eatooa. 
 
 They entertain a high idea of the power of fpirits. In the beautiful 
 and romantic view of Taloo harbour the remarkable peaked mountain 
 is faid to be but a part of the original one. Some fpirits from Ulietea 
 had broken ofl' the other half, and were tranfporting it down the bav, 
 in order to carry it away with them, but, being overtaken by the break 
 of day, they were obliged to drop it near the" mouth of the harbour 
 wihcre it now Hands confpicuous as a rock ; for, like the elves and 
 fairies of our anccftors, theic fpirits walk and work by night.
 
 336 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 Their fupcrllitious notions ot'this kind are endlefs ; unhappily, their 
 moll unnatural and cruel culloms are connedled with thcni, and they 
 are tenacious of the worft, fearing the negled; of thcfc, though inad- 
 vertently, would bring down the difpleafure of the Eatooa upon them,, 
 and expofe them to ficknefs or death. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 Pricfthood and Sacrifices. 
 
 THE pricfts at the Society Iflands arc a pretty numerous body : 
 they are in every diftrift : Mfuine Manne fecms to be the fii-ft among 
 them for knowledge and traditionary information: he isalfo a monarch 
 of Ulictea by right, though an exile, Temarre, the chief of Pappara, 
 of the feed roval, is alfo high in the facerdotal office. The pricfthood 
 is divided into two orders : the tahowra morai, and the tahowra 
 Eatooa. As tahowra morai, they officiate in all the prayers and obla- 
 tions made at the morals : thefe prayers are uttered in a chant that 
 cannot be underftood, and was fuppofed to be a peculiar iticrcd lan- 
 guage ; but that is now thought to be a mlftake, and the obfcurity 
 ovving to the mere manner of utterance. All the chiefs officiate as 
 priefts on fomc occafions, praying for their friends when lick, making 
 offerings at the morai, and performing other religious ceremonies. 
 
 The priefts have plenty of employment, being called in on all occa- 
 fions, births or deaths, feafts or ficknefs ; and are the phyficians as w ell 
 as clergy of the country. They atfccl to pollcls extraordinary powers, 
 to promote conception or abortion, to inliid; dlfeafcs or remove them 
 at their pleafure, and are greatly feared on that account. They are 
 fuppofed to be able to pray the evil fpirit into the food, by rubbing a 
 human fkall with a part of the provilioas they eat ; and fometimcs to 
 kill men outright. Thus Orepiah is fuppofed to have died by Manne 
 Manne's conjuration. They' acknowledge that over us they have no 
 pouer, bccaufe they knew not the names of our God and our grand- 
 father, which is neceffary. They gave us a fpccimcn of their con- 
 jurors in one of our vifits to Temarre. A man prclcnted himlilt in an 
 old blue co;it turned up with red, his head lurrounded with numerous 
 feathers, fo as to hide his couni'en;mce entirely : he ran up to us with 
 an unintelligible jargon, making a Iqucaking noifc, and ac'lions fo wild,
 
 Appf.ndix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 337 
 
 tluit \vc alkcd if the man was delirious. The natives not feeing us 
 at all frightened, fliid it was Temarre's fon, the Etooa ele, the little 
 god, which killed Omiah and many others. Having with us a great 
 dog, he tell \ipon the pricfl:, \\ ho fled ; at which the natives fecmed 
 terrified, and laid he would kill us. After a while, the priell returned 
 with a club in his hand, driving like a fury all before him, the women 
 and children flirieking, and the natives trembling. On tliis one of the 
 brethren jumped up to protect the dog, agaiult whom his rage was di- 
 re(fled, and wrelling the club from him, turned up the feathered cap, 
 and difeovered a well-known countenance, who had run away from 
 Matavai after robbing Pyetca. We immediately charged him with the 
 theft ; on this he changed countenance, and (hewed the greatcft terror. 
 The natives interpofing in his behalf, while wc were telling them of 
 the man and his impoilure, lie gave us the flip, and fled ; fo wc faw 
 no more of him. 
 
 He fcems to have been one of thofc called tahowra Etooa, who af- 
 fed; infpiration. Ofthcfe, fome pretend to belong to the particular 
 deity, others to many: fuch as claim acquaintance with the three 
 fuperior eatooas are the moft confequential, and procure high reverence 
 from the part they preiume to a6l ; indeed they do it with fo much 
 cunning and addrefs, that the Swedes whom we found on the ifland, 
 as well as the mariners who preceded them, really believed the ap- 
 pearances fupernatural, and that the devil acflually was the agent. 
 When they are called upon to confult the deity, they affumc an odd 
 fantaflic drefs, enriched with red and black feathers ; to which they 
 fay the Eatooa is fo partial, that on their approach to him thu?, he 
 defcends to the earth at their call in one of the facred birds which fre- 
 quent the morals and feed on the facriflccs. As foon as the bird lights 
 on the moral, the Eatooa quits the bird and enters the priefl. He in- 
 ftantly begins to llrctch and yawn, and rub his arms, legs, thighs, and 
 body, which begins to be intlatcd a^ if the iTcin of the abdomen would 
 burll: ; his eyes are thrown into various contortions, fometimes ftaring 
 wide, then half clofed and fmking into flupor ; while, at other times, 
 the whole frame is agitated, and appears to have undergone fome fud- 
 den and furprifnig change. The fpccch now becomes low, the voice 
 fqucaking and interrupted ; then on a fudden raifed to an allonilhing 
 degree. He now fpeaks intelligibly, though affecl:ing not to know 
 what he faith, nor the perlbns of thofc around him ; but his word-, arc 
 regarded as oracular, and whatever he alks for the deity, or himfclf, 
 is never refufed, if it can be poiTibly procured. Of this, however, the
 
 338 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appexdix. 
 
 aftor afFeiils to have no confcioufnefs ; his colleague and affiflant, ne- 
 verthelefs, takes care to minute the claims of the deity, and receives 
 them from the perlbn on vvhoie account the deity was fo condefceiiding 
 as thus to appear : thefe requirements are generally very large. 
 
 When the deity quits the pretended infpired tahovvra, he doth it with 
 fuch convulfions and violence as leave him motionlcfs on the ground, 
 and exhaufted ; and this is contrived to be at the moment when the 
 facred bird takes his flight from the moral. On coming to himfelf he 
 litters a loud fhriek, and feems to awake as from a profound fleep, un- 
 confcious of every thing which hath paflcd. 
 
 The priefts who fuperintend the lower orders of the people proceed 
 nearly in the fame manner, with variations only according to their craft 
 and abilities : among thefe arc women, who ofliciate, though not folely, 
 for their ovv'Xi fex. They think it impoffible that a child fhould come 
 into the world without their affifhance, though, in fad:, they afford 
 them non,e. People of property, when fick, will fomctimes have half 
 a dozen of thefe priefls and priefteffes praying around them, and 
 making offerings for them ; and whichever of thefe happens, in the 
 efllmation of the fick perfon, to be the happy caufe of his recovery, is 
 iure to be well rewarded, and ever after highly refpeded, to whatever 
 clafs of the priefthood he may belong. Whenever a priefl vifits a per- 
 fon of confequcnce he carries a young plantain in his hand ; and before 
 he enters the houfe offers a prayer, flicks a leaf of the plantain in the 
 thatch, and throws the remainder of the tree on the roof. 
 
 Their facrifices and oblations are various and liberal. They offer to 
 their gods all the produd of their illand, hogs, dogs, fowls, fifli, and 
 vcgetalDlcs ; and at every feall a portion is prefented to the Eatooa 
 before they prefume to take their own repaft. When a prieft denounces 
 the ncceffity of a human facrifice, or, as on the inauguration of the 
 king, cuftom requires fuch offerings, the manner of felecling them is 
 by a council of the chief with the ratlrras. The occafion is Hated, 
 and the victim pitched upon ; he is ufually a marked charadler, who 
 has been guilty of blafphemy, or fome enormous crime, or a ftranger 
 who has fled to the diftrict for fhclter from fome other part on account 
 of his ill condud. The decifion of this council is kept a profound le- 
 cret, and perhaps the only one which is fo. They watch the opportu- 
 nity of the night, when the culprit is aflcep, and difpatch him, if pof- 
 fiblc with one blow of a ftone on the nape of the neck, to prevent any 
 disfigurement of the body ; a bone of him muff not be broken, nor the 
 corpfe mangled or mutilated. If a man has been bit and disfigured by
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 339 
 
 a woman, he becomes noa, unclean for ever, and can never be offc red 
 in facrifice. The vi<ilim is phiced in a bafket of cocoa-nut leaves falt- 
 cned to a long pole, and carried in a f acred canoe to the moral, when 
 the eye is offered to the king with the ceremonies before dcfcribcd. 
 
 If the chief and ratirnis,, on (he rc<)iiifition f)f the pricfts, declare they 
 can find none deferving death in their dillricl, or refufb to pro\ idc a 
 human facrifice, they may fubflitute a hog in his place : and it is re- 
 ported, as taking off Ibmething from the horror of the deed, that none 
 are pitched u{)on whofe lives have not been juftly forleited by their 
 crimes. Where there is no law, nor regular adminiftration of jufticc, 
 this mode is fubltitutcd to dilpatch a criminal, whom his friends might 
 refcue ; but being thus executed, it is fuppofed the choice was right, 
 and no other notice is taken : but what a door docs this open to partia- 
 lity, private enmity, and re\euge, is too evident and blocking. ]\o 
 woman is liable to be offered at the Society Iflands, thoiigh they appear 
 the chief vidims at the Friendly Iflands; nor may they, at Otahcite, 
 be prclcnt at any of the religious affemblics, partake of the offerings 
 at the moral, or tread the confecratcd ground, except on a particular 
 occafion ; nor may they eat o( any food which has been there, or 
 touched by thofe who officiate at the altar ; and all their male attend- 
 ants are in the fame llatc of uncJcanncfs and fcclufion. 
 
 The facred ground around the morais affords a fanduary for crinii- 
 nals. Thither, on any apprehenfion of danger, they fiec, efpecially 
 when numerous facrinces are expeded, and cannot thence be taken by 
 force, though they arc fomctimcs feduccd to quit their afylum. On 
 the inauguration of Otoo m;uiy took refuge in the precinds of the mu- 
 tineers' habitation, which was held facred as the morai. and where they 
 enjoyed full protedion. Our habitations will afford as alfured cxcnip- 
 tion ; and the whole diflrid of Mata^ ai being ceded to lis, no more 
 human facrifices will probably be demanded from us, and luch an ex- 
 ample will have the mofl beneficial tendency to abolifh the cullom in 
 other diflrids. If wc fhall be enabled only to put an end to a pradice 
 lo uilumian, and to induce the pregnant females to prcfarvc and com- 
 mit to our nurture the infants devoted todellrudion, we fhall acknow- 
 ledge this alone wovdd amply reward \is tor the labours of 1o\t in 
 which wc are engaged. 
 
 X X
 
 340 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 
 Singular Cujloms. 
 
 WHEN a woman takes a hufband, flae immediately provides herfelf 
 with a fliark's tooth, which is fixed with the bread-fruit gum on an 
 inftrument that leaves about a quarter of an inch of the tooth bare, for 
 the purpofe of wounding the head, like a lancet. Some of thefe have 
 two or three teeth, and ftruck forcibly they bring blood in copious 
 ftreams ; according to the love they bear the party, and the violence 
 of their grief, the ftrokes are repeated on the head ; and this has been 
 known to bring on fever and terminate in madncfs. If any accident 
 happens to the hufband, his relations or friends, or their child, the 
 llaark's tooth goes to work ; and even if the child only fall down and 
 hurt itfelf, the blood and tears mingle together. As the child, from 
 the moment of his birth, fucceeds to all the honours and dignity of his 
 family, any infalt offered to- him is felt more deeply by the parents 
 than if offered to themfelves. Should the child die, the houfe is pre- 
 fcntly filled with relations, cutting their heads and making the loudeft 
 lamentations. 
 
 On this occafion, in addition to other tokens of grief, the parents 
 ctit their hair fliort on one part of their heads, leaving the reft long. 
 Sometimes this is confined to a fquare patch on the forehead ; at others 
 they leave that, and cut off all the reft : fometimcs a bunch is left over 
 both ears, fometimes over one only; and fometimcs one half is clipped 
 quite clofc, and the other left to grow long : and thefe tokens of 
 mourning arc fometimes prolonged for two or three years. 
 
 Their marriages are performed without ceremonies, but various are 
 thofe which fucceed. If a woman be a virgin, the father and mother 
 perform an amooa, or offering, of a hog or fowl, and plantain-tree to 
 their fon-in-law, before they can touch any of his pcovifions ; but not 
 if a widow, or feparated from a former hufband. The wife's relations 
 make a prefent of hogs, cloth, &c. to the new-married pair. As they 
 agree, they live either on the hufband or wife's eftate; but if they 
 part eac'n retains their own. 
 
 The feparation of the women from their hufliands en a particular 
 occafion, Dr. Gillham had once the opportunity of remarking. Going-
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 311 
 
 into tlic hut of his tayo, named Poppo, very early, he obfcrved him 
 hiid alone on the bedltcad, and his wiie lying on the floor. Inquiring 
 the rcalbn, Poppo informed him it was becaufe flie was at prcfent 
 under the Otahcitcan feminine mfirmity. 
 
 When a woman brings forth a child, a kind of hut is raifcd within 
 the houfe with matting and cloth ; heated floncs arc then placed, 
 with fwcet herbs and grafs fprcad over thCm ; on thefe water is 
 fprinkled, and fhe is dole Ihut up in the fleam which riics, till fhc 
 is in a proper perfpiration, and can endure the heat no longer ; from 
 thie vapour-bath flie comes out and plunges into the river, and wafhing 
 herfelf all over pmts on her clothes, and takes the child to the morai. 
 This flic afterwards repeats, and often brings on the ague ; nor could 
 they be perfuadcd to defill from fo prcpoflcrous a cuftom, fuch being 
 the force of prejudice. 
 
 The child being wafhed, is taken with the mother to the family 
 morai ; where, after the fither hath made an offering of a young pig 
 or fowl, with a plantain-tree, the navel-ftring is feparated, about ten 
 inches being left, by one of the priefls, who alw;tys attends, and is 
 paid for the operation by a hog, or cloth. A temporary houfc is 
 ercd:ed on the fiicrcd ground adjoining the morai, and what is cut off 
 from the child is buried at the morai. In this hoiife mother and child 
 dwell till the reft of the navel-ftring drops off, which may he depo- 
 fitcd in the houfc, or at the morai. During this time of feclufion, which 
 is for a male infant a fortnight, and for a female three weeks, the 
 mother touches no provilions herfelf, but is fed by another ; and Ihould 
 any perfon touch the child during this time, he muft undergo the 
 fame reftriclions till the amooa is performed, of a voung pig, or a 
 fowl, for the mother, which hniflies this fcparation for uncleannefs. 
 The child is then removed to another temporary houfe on the facred 
 ground, near the houfe in which the father and mother rcfide ; but 
 they may not touch the child in the fame clothes in which they eat 
 their provifious. To take off this reftridion, a fecond amooa muft be 
 performed by the father and uncles, and a third by the mother and 
 aunts; a fourth, before the child returns to the houfe where the father 
 and uncles cat ; a fitth, on the fame account tor the mother and aunts. 
 If tlie child is a male, thefe are all till he is adopted by a medooa, or 
 godlather, when another amooa is perf)rmed; but if a female, two 
 yet remain ; one when Ihc is married, that the father and uncles mav 
 cat with her hufband, and of fuch provifions as he has touched, which 
 cthcrvvife they could not : the next, that the mother and aunts may
 
 342 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 touch the l"on-in-law's provifious, though they may not eat with him. 
 Thefe lall arc c-dWcdi fiv at at oe. Hogs and cloth arc the otFering for the 
 males, for the females only filh. Of thclb rites tlicy arc in no wife 
 fparing, and much fcf!:ivity attends them. 
 
 If the child touches any thing before thefe rites are performed, it 
 muft be wholly appropriated to their ufc, being raa or facred ; and if 
 any thing touches the child's h-cad before the amooa is offered, it mufc 
 be depofitcd in a confecratcd place railed in for that purpofe at the 
 child's houfe ; and if it were the branch of a tree, as lometimcs hap- 
 pens in carrying it about, the tree mull; be cut down ; and if in its fall 
 it injures another tree, fo as to penetrate the bark, that tree alfo mull 
 be cut down as unclean and unfit for ufe. 
 
 The head is always regarded as facred, though, after the ceremonies 
 are performed, thefe demands ccalc ; but they never carry any thing 
 upon their heads, nor can bear to have them touched without otience; 
 and the cuttings of their hair are buried at th;; moral. 
 
 Both fcxes go naked till they are (ix or feven years of age ; about 
 thirteen or fourteen the operation of tattooing the males begins, and 
 earlier for the females. The inllruments employed for tattooing a 
 chief, or head of a family, are always fent to the moral, and dcftroyed. 
 as foon as the ^\o^k is campleted. The females m.ark their hands and 
 feet with a number of fmall figures, and their liips with arched lines, 
 guided wholly by fancy as to their number and thicknefs ; but the men 
 tattoo their arms, legs, and thighs, as well as the buttocks; and a per- 
 fon without tliefe honourable marks would be as much reproached and 
 fliunned, as if with us he fliould go about the ffrcets naked. At thir- 
 teen or fourteen years of age the boys have an operation performed, by 
 flitting up the prepuce w'ith a fliark's tooth, and aflies are fpnnkled 
 on the wound ; it is at their own option when they choofe to have it 
 done. The tatoo-men perform the incilion, and receive a pig, or 
 piece of cloth, lor their trouble. 
 
 They bathe conftantly threx times a day in the frcfli water, and 
 always wafli themfelves in it after coming out of the fea ; and though 
 men and women are together, there is not tlic Icall immodelly per- 
 mitted, and they Hip through their clothes without any wanton cx- 
 pofures — it would be condemned in a man as much as a woman. In 
 their dances alone is immodefty permitted ; there it appears the cffeCl 
 of national liabit cr cuftom, as ?iO perlon could e\er be prevailed upin 
 to do in any priv: le company wh.t, when they dance in pubhc, is al- 
 lowed without fcruplc. In ia&., though chaftity and modefty are not
 
 AppnxDiJi.] TO THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS. 343 
 
 held in the fame eftimtitlon with them as with us, yet many of their 
 married women are faid to pique themfelves on its ftrict obfcrvance, 
 and arc not to be won at any rate, being only acc(;ffible to the huf- 
 band's tayo. 
 
 The finglc young men, who in the heivas indulge indecent gefturcs, 
 would not dare to do fo at any other time ; and however ftrangely the 
 women a6t in public dances, no woman of charafter v^ould admit of 
 improper liberties clfcwhere. They ne\'er uncover their breafts but 
 when they bathe, nor their bolbm and Ihoaldcrs but in the prcfence of 
 the chief. Their ideas, no doubt, of fliame and delicacy are very dif- 
 ferent from ours ; they arc not yet ad\anced to fuch a flate of civiliza- 
 tion and refinement ; but tlie woman who failed with the fhip foon 
 becaririe as referved in manners and drefs as any European ; and the 
 progrefs made in the ifland by the miffionaries in this refpeft when 
 the fliip returned, was evident and pleafing. 
 
 If a woman has any defctl or deformity, flte carefully conceals it; 
 and vi'hen they go into the water they take with them broad leaves 
 to fupply the place of cloth. Their conftant bathing prevents every 
 difagrceable fmell from pcrfpiration, and their mouth and teeth being 
 waihe-d at every meal, preferves their teeth white and- their breath. 
 fweet. 
 
 They cxtradl every hair from the nofe, arm-pits, &c. to prevent its 
 harbouring any dull: or foulnefs. Their beards arc ufually neatly trlm- 
 m-ed with Hulls, and their hair fliort or long, according to their fancy. 
 The women, except thofe who affed: to be prophctefles, wear their 
 hair fliort and decked with flowers, paying the niccft regard to their 
 perfons. Thev adjull their brows and eyelafhes, clipping them if too 
 long, and forming the cyebrow^s into regular arches. Nor are the men 
 lefs attentive to their perfons, and will fit at the glafs dreffing with the 
 greateft complacence. A black cocoa-nut fhell filled with water ferved 
 them for a looking-glais, till we fupplied them with wdiat they fo 
 highly prized. Fifh fcales, or fliells, formed their tweezers, the fliark's 
 teeth their fcllfars, and the bamboo their combs. The fragrant oil 
 fupplies the place of pomatum, and powder and civet can hardly fur- 
 nilh greater beaus. At their heivas they put on their beft, and drefs 
 in the mofl tafty manner fancy can fuggefl. Both fexes have their 
 ears bored for ornaments; in them they w^ear pearls, or beads, hanging 
 down about two inches in a plait of hair ; fomctimes the hole of the 
 ear is fluck with an odoriferous flo\^■er. They have pearls which they 
 value very highly ; and at firfl our white beads, which rcfemble them,
 
 344 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix:. 
 
 were much coveted ; but when they found they were fpoiled with 
 water, they ccafed to be in demand. As long as they are able to move, 
 thev never neglecl bathing ; the old, who can fcarcely crawl, get down 
 to the river ; nor does any ficknefs or difeafe prevent them ; nothing 
 but utter inability rcllrains them from the water. 
 
 They produce fire in the following manner : with their teeth, or a 
 mufcle-lhell, they iharpen a flick of porou wood, and fixing a larger 
 piece of the fame under their feet, they with both hands and a quick 
 motion rub a fcore in the board at their feet till the du<]: produced 
 takes fire ; they have dried leaves or grafs ready, into which they fweep 
 this tinder duft, and wrapping it up, wave it in the wind till it kindles 
 into a flame: while they are rubbing they continue finging, or chanting 
 a hymn or prayer, till the fire is produced, in about twa minutes if the 
 wood be completely dry. In wet weather this is a difficult taflc, and 
 therefore they ufually then carry about with them fire, which in the 
 drv' weather they need not do. The women are not fuilered to kindle 
 a, fire from that made by their hufbands, or any other man, except 
 thofe feminine male afibciates which attend them, and are fubjed; to 
 the fame rules. 
 
 They never fuffer a fly to touch their food if they can help it ; and 
 fhould they find one dead in their puddings, or any of their provlfions, 
 which fometiraes cannot be avoided, they throw it to the hogs. Hence 
 they all carry fly-flaps ; thefe are ufually made of feathers, and fixed to 
 a handle of wood ten or twelve inches long, fometimes carved, fome- 
 times plain. The wing bones of the largcll fowls, when cleaned, are 
 ufed for handles ; and if they have not thefe, ' they fupply their place 
 by a bough from the nearert tree. Whenever you enter a houfe, or 
 approach^ place where pro^ilions are preparing, this is the firfl: thing 
 they offer you. When the provlfions arc dreficd and hot before you, 
 the bo}s continue to fan away the flies with fly-flaps, nothing being 
 more offenfive or difagreeablc than that a fly fliould get into their 
 mouths ; and their averfion to touch them with their hands is fuch, 
 that fliould a dead fly be found on any part of their body, they would 
 go inflantly to the river and wafli themfelves. Thefe flics at times 
 are numerous, but not fo venomous as the mulketoes in the Wefl: 
 Indies : they arc of two forts, the common black fly, and a gray one 
 of the fame fize, which fometimes fl;ings Iharply. They hae alfo but- 
 terflies, butterfly moths, mulketoe^-, lizards, fcorpions, centipedes, 
 beetles, crickets, grafihoppcrs, fmall ants, fand-flics, and others ; but 
 neither dangerous nor very troublefomc.
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS- 315 
 
 The n)id(Uc-agcd of" all claflcs generally take a nap at noon, during 
 the heat of the day. To this the ya\a, among tliole \vho drink it, 
 docs not a little dilpole. The aged, as more -watclitnl, need not this 
 indulgence ; and the youth, too lively to deep during the daylight, 
 find alway-i ibnie fport or amufcnient to cnaj)loy them. 
 
 During the night, if flrangers lodge Nvitli them, they burn the 
 candle-nut, ftuck on fkcwers, that they may find their ^vay in and out 
 ot' the houfc without ineommodation from thofe who llecp on the 
 floor, Ibmetimes to the amount of fifty or fixty pcrfons. Nor was it 
 unufual to get up and have provifions ready in the night ; and fome fit 
 and chat, and tell ftories, with which they are alwavs delichted. We 
 obfer\ed that thofe which regarded us, and our European manners and 
 cufloms, lefs interefled them than their own, as their minds were not 
 enlarged to a capacity of comprehending the reports which were made, 
 and thefe too often fabulous. One navigator told them, we had fliips 
 as much larger than his as that was bigger than their fmallefl canoes ; 
 that we had vcfTcls which would reach from Otaheite to Ulietea, about 
 fbrty-five leagues ; and of fo vaft a height, that a young man going to 
 the topmaft-head grew gray before he came down again ; that our 
 round tops contained forells of fruit-trees bigger than the bread-fruit. 
 Pomiirre \ery earneflly prefled Captain Wllfbn to fay If it was true ; 
 but though undeceived in this refpeft, they are as much Itaggered at 
 hearing of a houfc of flonc of ten flories, or a bridge over a river of 
 the fame materials, as wide as would fpan the narrow part of their 
 valleys from mountain to mountain. Such gigantic ideas exceed the 
 fcope of their intelleft : but whatever was related of the Marquefas, or 
 Tongataboo, their inhabitants, country, manners, trees, canoes, was 
 heard with the greateft avidity, and always drew an audience about 
 the relator, beyond even their favourite national fborlcs. 
 
 They lay not the leafl reftraint upon their children from the day 
 they are born ; being the head ot' their families, they are indulged in 
 every thing : they have their own amufements, called helva tama 
 reede ; as they grow up and advance to manhood thefe are generally 
 abandoned ; but none are controlled by any authority, and any one 
 may continue in them if he pleafes. 
 
 Though in fome refped: they are not at all delicate, yet in confe- 
 ■tjuence of their frequent bathings, in the largefl companies there is 
 nothing ofFenfive but the heat. Here, as elfewhere, there arc fome 
 who make a trade of beauty, and know too how to make their advan- 
 tage of it, having a number of pimps and bawds, nominal relations. 
 
 Y y
 
 3-15 FIRST iMISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 who agree for and receive the price of proftitution ; but if a perfon is 
 the tayo of the hufband, he muft indulge in no hberties with the fif- 
 ters or the daughters, bccaufe they are confidcred as his own fifters or 
 daughters, and inceft is held in abhorrence by them ; nor will any 
 temptation engage them to violate this bond of purity. The wife, 
 however is excepted, and confidercd as a common property for the 
 tayo. Lieutenant Corner alfo added, that a tayofhip formed between 
 different fexes put the moff folcmn barrier againfi: all perfonal liberties. 
 Our brethren who are returned, however, think this not to be the 
 cafe ; or that they have, fince his vifit, degenerated. The women of 
 quality allow themfelves greater liberties than their inferiors ; and many 
 of the arreoy women pride themfelves on the number of their admirers, 
 and live in a fearfully promifcuous intercourfe. Few children can be 
 the confequencc, and thefe are univerfally murdered the moment they 
 are born. Yet, with all this, many are true and tender wives ; their 
 large families prove their facred attachment to the individual with 
 whom they are united ; and our European failors who have cohabited 
 with them have declared, that more faithful and affedlionate creatures 
 to them and their children could no where be found. The hiflory of 
 Peggy Stewart marks a tendernefs of heart that never will be heard 
 without emotion : fhe was daughter of a chief, and taken for his wife 
 by Mr. Stewart, one of the unhappy mutineers. They had lived with 
 the old chief in the moft tender ftate of endearment ; a beavitiful little 
 girl had been the fruit of their union, and was at the breaft when the 
 Pandora arrived, felzcd the criminals, and fecurcd them in irons on board 
 the fhip. Frantic with grief, the unhappy Peggy (for fo he had named 
 her) flew with her infant in a canoe to the arms of her hufband. The 
 interview was fo affecting and afflifting, that the officers on board were 
 overwhelmed with anguilh, and Stewart himfelf, imable to bear the 
 heart-rending fccne, 'begged flic might not be admitted again on board. 
 She was feparated frojn him by violence, and conveyed on fhore in a 
 ftate of dcfpair and grief too big for utterance. Withheld from him, 
 and forbidden to come any more on board, Ihe funk into the deepeft 
 dejecltion ; it preyed on her vitals ; flie loft all relifli for food and life ; 
 .rejoiced no more ; pined under a rapid decay of two months, and fell 
 a viftim to her feelings, dying literally of a broken heart. Her child 
 is yet alive, and the tender objedt of our care, having been brought up 
 by a fifter, who nurfcd it as her owij,. and has difchargcd all the duties 
 of an affc(?tionate mother to the orphan infant. 
 
 They are very fond of dogs, and cfpccially thofc with a bufliy tail,.
 
 AprEXDix.J TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 3i; 
 
 the hair of w hich tlicy employ in their fine brcctfi:-p]alc= ; and the wo- 
 men often not only fondle the puppies, but fxickle them at their breiifls. 
 The women arc not permitted to cat with the men, nor may they 
 drink out of the fame cup. Many kinds of food are utterly forbidden 
 them ; and thofc which they may ufe, are gathered and drcilcd hy 
 themielves, or by thofe feminine male afibciatcs who wait upon them, 
 and live with them. If a man touch their peculiar food, tl)ey arc. 
 obliged to throw it away. No reprcfcntatiou of a woman is permitted 
 at any of their morais. 
 
 But of all their curtom.s tliofe marked with greatcft horror arc the 
 infant murders committed in the arreoy focicty, and of female chil- 
 dren, too common out of it ; their Imman facrificcs, and their abr)mi- 
 nable nnnvl/oos : thefc, with the wars fo frequent, and the difcafcs 
 which deftroy the very principle of life, threaten to depopulate a 
 country, fruitful as the garden of the Hcfperides ; and they muft, if 
 our labours do not iiicceed, become in the next generation cxtin(ft', 
 without fire from heaven. 
 
 A prad;ice of a kind fo abominably filthy as fcarcc to be credited, 
 •was communicated by the Swede, and confirmed by one of the Ota- 
 licitcans who was prcfent — tliat there had been a Ibciety at Otaheite 
 and Eimco, who, in their meetings, always {ite human excrement, 
 but that it had been fupprefTed by the other natives of Otaheitc. 
 
 They have a mode of lulling thcmfclves to rcfl : the hufband and 
 •wife, when they lie down, take their pipe of three notes, -which they 
 blow with their noftrils ; one plays \\hilll the other chants in unifoa 
 with it : and this they alternately continue till they fall aflcep. 
 
 Their generofity is boundlef<, and appears cxceffive : the inftanccs 
 our brethren record are furpriling. Not only cart-loads of provifion 
 more than they could confume were fent in for the whole body, but 
 individuals have received the mofl furprifing abundance, without any 
 adequate return even expc«3;ed or fuggert:ed. To one of the mifTionaries 
 was given as a prelcnt a double canoe, with a travelling houfe, three 
 large pearls, a fine feine, a beautiful feathered brcaft-plate, two large 
 hogs, fandal wood, cloth, and fine inats in abundance, with various 
 other things ; and fimilar infl:ances mav be obferved in the narrative. 
 
 They ha\e not alw ays regular meals ; but ufually eat as foon as they 
 ■Tife at daybreak. Some arc very voracious, efpecially the chiefs. Po- 
 mirrre hath eaten a couple of fowls, and two pounds, at leafl, of pork, 
 befidcs other things, at a meal with us on board. The chiefs all live 
 4«xurioufly: they only work for their amufemcnt ; have more wivr? 
 
 y Y 2
 
 34S FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Api-endix. 
 
 than one amidll: the fcarcity of women ; drink dally the yava ; when 
 they lleep are tanned and chafed by their women : and often fit urj 
 great part of the night at their heivas and entertainments. 
 
 They hare a very fimllar way of exprcffing their joy as well as 
 forrow; for whether a relation dies, or a dear friend returns from a 
 journey, the fliark's tooth inflrumcnt, with which every woman fur- 
 nifhes herfelf at her marriage, is again employed, and the blood ftreams 
 down. As our brethren fignified their utter difapprobation of thcfc 
 felf-infliftcd cruelties, they prevailed with the natives to fufpend for 
 us, at Icaft, fuch tokens of delight ; and taught them to fliake hands, 
 or welcome us av ith fmilcs inftead of ftreams of blood. 
 
 Among the moll uncommon cuftoms, we mav add the difhonour and 
 difrefpecfl paid to old age. The advanced in years are thruft afide, and 
 receive little or no attention. Even the reverend Otey (form.erly 
 Whappai, and called by Vancouver, Taow), with his venerable white 
 beard, the father of Pomarre, and the grandfather of Otoo, was fcarcely 
 noticed by them : they would hardly permit him to enter the cabin 
 when on board ; and unlefs the captain exprefsly called to him, they 
 kept him alongfide in his canoe. One of our old feamen was often the 
 objedl of their ridicule. In difcourfe, when any thing refufe was men- 
 tioned, they called it " old man." At Tongataboo we noticed the 
 very rcverfe : in the prefence of the aged the younger perfons obferved 
 a moft refpeclful filence. 
 
 Their mode of falutation is very different from ours : they touch 
 nofes ; and wonder that we can exprefs afFeftion by wetting one an- 
 other's faces \\ith our lips. 
 
 In war they pradlifc no difcipline, and arc under no obligation to 
 fight longer than they like ; and it is much Icfs disgraceful to run away 
 from an enemy with whole bones, than to fight and be wounded ; for 
 this, they fay, would prove a man rather foolifli than warlike. Except 
 a man has killed an enemy, he is not eileemed a warrior ; and though 
 they dread a fear as difhonourable, they fight with a fury bordering on 
 madnefs, as they know the lofs of a battle would be the lofs of all 
 their property, which, though of inconfiderable value, they are reluc- 
 tant to be deprived of, not fo much from any covetous defire of pof- 
 fcfling, as from their priding themfelves on their generofity, and having 
 fomething to give ; and this they do with a grace that adds ftill more 
 to the favour. 
 
 When a perfon of eminence dies, even if a child of the fuperior 
 clafs, he is prcfcrvcd, and not buried, luilefs he died of fomc conta-
 
 ArPEXDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SIT A ISLAN73S. 349 
 
 gious or offcnfivc difeafc. They take out the vlfccra, and dry the body 
 with cloth, unohitlng it within and without with the perfumed oil'; 
 and this is frequently repeated. The perlun who performs this office is 
 counted unclean, and may not touch provifions or feed iiinifelt for a 
 month. The relations and friends who are abfent, perform their part 
 ot the funeral rites at their arrival, each female prelenting a piece ot 
 cloth to the corpfc ; and they continue to drefs and decorate the Ixjdy 
 as if alive, and to furnilh it with provifions, fuppofmg that the foul 
 which hovers round recei^ e.s fatibfac^tion from fuch mark.« of attention , 
 they tJicrefore not only take care of it thus, but repeat before it foms 
 of the tender Iccncs which happened during their liie-time, and wipiiij^ 
 the blood which the Ihark's teeth has drawn, depofit the cloth on th;: 
 tupapow, as the proof of their affed:ion. Whiltt any ofFenfive fnicll 
 remains, they furround the corpfe with garlands of flowers, and bring 
 the fwcet-fcented oil to anoint it. 
 
 If a chief d'les, he is carried round the ifland to the diflricfls where 
 he had property, or w here his particular friends refide ; and the funeral 
 ceremony is repeated : after a tour of fome months, he returns to reft 
 at the place of his uliial refidence. Some bodies are prefervcd like 
 dried parchment ; others, when the flefli is mouldered away, after 
 lying on the tupapow, are buried. 
 
 The preferved corpfes are called tupapow mure, and kept above 
 ground ; and thefe, in war, are as liable to be taken prifoners as the 
 living, and are as great a trophy as an enemy llain in battle. Tlie 
 man who takes the body affumes the chieftain's name; therefore, in 
 time of invafion, thefe are generally the firli things conveyed to the 
 mountains, as a place of fecurity : thither, alfo, they carry Captain 
 Cook's pidiure, the lofs of which v/ould be elleemed as afllicftive as 
 that ot a chief; and the conquerors might lay claim to the diftricl 
 allotted to him, according to their laws of fucceffion- 
 
 The priefts never pray over the dead, unlefs thev die of fome infec- 
 tious difordtr, and then they entreat him to bury the diieafe with him 
 in the grave, and not inflidi it on any other perfon when he is fent 
 back as an eatooa. They throw a plantain-tree into the grave, and 
 bury with him, or burn, all his utenfils, that no perfon may be infected 
 by them. 
 
 They bury none in the morai, but thofe offered in facrifice, or flain 
 in battle, or the children of chiefs which have been flrangled at the 
 birth — an a(5l of atrocious humanity too common. When, at lalt, 
 after the lleih is confumcd above ground, they bury the bones, they
 
 350 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appexdix, 
 
 often prefcrve the fkull, as a precious relic, wrapping it in cloth, and 
 keeping it with great care in a trame or box in their houfc, as a telH- 
 mony of their affe6lion. 
 
 When any friend, or a ftranger, vifits a family, he is received with 
 "the moft cordial welcome. The maftcr and millrefs, and perhaps all 
 in the hoiife, call out, and repeat it,, Mannowwa, welcome ; to which 
 the vifitor replies, Harre minay, I am coming; thofe of the houfe an- 
 fwer, Yoiirana t'Eatooa, God blefs you; to which the reply is, Tavecay, 
 iiere, and then fits down. The occafion of his vifit and his wiHies are 
 "demanded by the maftcr of the family, an.d anfwcred \\ 1th the greatcfl 
 Iranknefs. Inftantly preparation is made of a pig, or fowl, to entertain 
 the llranger; and if it is more than can be eaten, it is put into a bafket, 
 and fent with him home : meantime, whatever he requells is given, 
 if in the power of the hoit ; and if not, he fends round to his friends 
 and neighbours to procure it : this alfo is accompanied with a prefcnt 
 lof cloth and perfumed oil, or fomething which hath coft them labour, 
 as they fay provifions come fpontaneoully, and arc to be made little 
 ftore of i but what is manufactured, or obtained with toll, is bell fuited 
 to be given or received as prefents. If any pcrfon fneezes, they ufe the 
 fame falution, God blcfs you, yourana t'Eatooa. 
 
 They never return thanks, nor feem to have a word in their language 
 cxpreflive of that idea. Should they not meet with a cordial welcome, 
 they would iay fo without fcruple to the next pcrfon they vifited, 
 which would be highly difgraccful to the offender, as their ellablilhed 
 law of hofpitality is to entertain all Grangers; and many make the 
 tour of the ifland for months together, fure to find every where a 
 cordial reception. 
 
 When a chief, or flranger of rank, vifits them from another ifland, 
 all the men of his ov, n flatitMi in life prefeut their ootdoo, or peace- 
 offering. He is fcated in the houfe of ftrangers, feveral being eredled 
 for this very purpolc, \afl and fpaclous ; the chiefs of the diltridl af- 
 femble round him, w;th a pricft, who makes a long prayer, or oration ; 
 and having fcvcral young plantain-trees, he ties a fcunch of red feathers 
 to one of them, and with a pig or fowl, lavs it at the ftranger's feet, 
 who takes the leathers, and flicks tliem in his ear, or liis hair. The 
 priefls of the inferior fecondary chief's repeat a like off'cring, and a fcaft 
 ■is immediately provided, with prefents of cloth, hogs, &c. If a ratirni 
 vifits, he will ffill find a more niimerous body to receive him ; and 
 though the feafl may not be as fumptuous, there are fo many to wcl- 
 \comc him of his own rank, that he may flay a month in a diflrid, and
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 331 
 
 vifit round every day : indeed they arc fcldom in hafte. Nor are the 
 lower chifTes leCs hofpitable aecording to their abihty ; and every where 
 there is fueh plenty of food and raiment, that fome of them continue 
 wanderini^ over the ifland for many years together, and nc\ cr find lack 
 of fuflcnance. 
 
 From one caufe or another, they frequently change their names ; fo 
 that a perfon abfcnt from them a lew years, would be at a lofs to find 
 out thofe with whom he was bcft acquainted, unlcfs he met them. 
 The names of places and thinj^s are continued, unlefs they happen to 
 confift of f)llablcs containing the king's name, in which cafe, during 
 his lifetime, they arc changed, but at his dcatli the common name is 
 refumed. 
 
 They have an averfion to compare the fize of any food to a perfon's 
 licad, and regard this as a fpecies of blafphemy and inllilt. A hand 
 laid on the head would be a hitrh offence. One of thofe feamcn who 
 rcfided on the ifland, a brute, in outrage of their cuftoms, would carry 
 provifions on his head, and was regarded with horror as a c;.innibal : 
 they have even different names for the head of a hosr, a dog, a bird, 
 a fifli. 
 
 If a man eats In a houfe with a w'oman, he takes one end, and flic 
 the other, and they fleep in the middle. If a woman has a child, the 
 provifions for it muft not come in at the fame door with the mother's; 
 but there is an opening like a window, through which they are re- 
 ceived ; and it would be reckoned bealllv in the higheft degree for her 
 to eat whilfl fhe is fuekling her child. When they travel, their provi- 
 fions mufl be carried in feparate canoes. 
 
 The cuftom of uncovering before the chiefs is univerfal. We have 
 Introduced, however, it is faid, a mode of evading it : if any man or 
 woman be clothed in a fliirt, or coat, of European cloth, or has a hat 
 ef our manufa<fture, he is not obliged to be unclothed : it fuffiecs if he 
 removes the piece of Otaheite cloth which is over his flioulders.
 
 352 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Avvr.i^inx. 
 
 SECTION VII. 
 
 Amujcmsirts. 
 
 THEIR life IS without toil, and every man at liberty to do, go, and 
 a£l as he pleafes, without the diftrefs of care, or apprehenlion of want ; 
 and as their leifure is great, their fports and anmfcmcnts are various. 
 
 Of thefe, fwlmming in the furf appears to atlbrd them fingular 
 delight. At this fport both fexes are ^■ery dexterous ; and the di^•crflon 
 is reckoned great in proportion as the furf nnis highcil, and breaks 
 with the greatcfh violence : they ^\ill continue it for hours together, 
 till they are tired. Some make ufc of a fmall board, two feet and a 
 half, or more, formed with a Iharp point, like the forepart of a canoe; 
 but others ufe none, and depend wholly on their own dexterity. They 
 fwim out bevond where the fwell of the furf begins, which they follow'- 
 as it rifes, throwing theiiifelves on the top of the wave, and {leering 
 themfelves witli one leg, whilfh the other is raifed out of the water, 
 their breaft repofmg on the plank, and one hand moving them forward, 
 till the furf begins to gather way : as the rapidity of its motion in- 
 creafes, they are carried onward with the moil amazing velocity, till 
 the furf is ready to break on the fhore, when, in a moment, they flcef 
 themfelves round with fo quick a movement as to dart head forcmoft 
 through the wave, and rifmg on the outfide, fwim back again to the 
 place where the furf firfl begins to fwell, diving all the way through 
 the waves, which are running furioufly on the fhore. 
 
 In the courfe of this amufement they fometimes run foul of each 
 cfther, when many are /vvimming together ; thofe who arc coming on 
 not being able to flop their motion, and thofc who are moving the 
 contrary way, unable to keep their fufficient diflance, fo that they are 
 carried together by the rulhing wave, and hurled neck and heels on 
 fhore before they can difcmbarrafs themfelves, and get well bruifcd on 
 their landing. The women are excellent at this fport; and Iddcah, the 
 queen mother, is reckoned the mod expert in the whole ifland. The 
 children take the fame diverfion in a weaker furf, learning to fwim as 
 {cxm as they learn to walk, and fcldom meet with any accident, except 
 being dafhed on the beach ; but hardly ever a perfon is drowned. If a 
 fharie comes in among thcra, they all furround him, and force him on
 
 Appewdix.] to the SOtrni-SEA ISLANDS. 353 
 
 fliore, if they can but once get him into the furf, though th^y ufe no 
 inftrumcnts for the purpofe ; and fliould he efcape, they continue their 
 /'port, unapprehcnfive of danger. This diverfion is moft common when 
 the vveflcrly winds prevail, as they are always attended with a hea^vy 
 fwell which continues many days after the bad weather is abated. 
 
 Their aniufements on ihore are, throwing the fpear, or Javelin, 
 fhooting with bows and arrows, -Nvrertling, dancing, and icveral other 
 games ; at all which the women have their turn as well as the men ; 
 but they ahvays play feparatcly from each other. 
 
 The javelins are from eight to fourteen feet long, and pointed with 
 the fwharra, or palm-tree. Thcfe they hurl at a mark let up at the 
 diftancc of thirty or forty yards, with great exacflncfs. They hold the 
 rpear in the right hand, and poife it over the fore-finger of the left. At 
 this game one diftrldl: often plays againft another, but never for any 
 wager, only the diflrid: in which they play provides an entertainment. 
 
 Their bows are made of porow, and their arrows of fmall bamboos, 
 pointed with toa w^ood, which they fix on with bread-fruit gum. The 
 bow-ftrings arc made of the bark of the roava ; with thcfe they fhoot 
 againft each other, not at^a mark, but for the grcateft diftancc. They 
 never ufe this inftrument in Avar; and the clothes they wear on this 
 occafion, arc facred to the game, and nc^■er worn at any other time. 
 Since they have learned the ufe of more deftrucllve weapons, the guns, 
 which they have procured from us, they arc faid to have become ex- 
 cellent markfmen. 
 
 They are dexterous wreftlcrs. When they challenge each other they 
 ftrike the bend of the left arm with the right hand, and if left-handed, 
 reverfc it. The arm being bent, receives the hand on its cavity, and 
 makes a loud report. The man who returns the clap, accepts the chal- 
 lenge, and throws both arms forward, as if to lay hold of his antagonlft. 
 The ring is immediately formed, and they clofe with each other. As 
 foon as the ftruggle iflucs in the fall of either, he fdently retires, nor 
 incurs any dlfgrace, and the conqxieror goes clapping round the ring. 
 If they wreftle one dlftrld: againft another, the w omen always wrcftlc 
 firft, and the men fuccced. At this, Iddeah, the queen-mother, ex- 
 cels ; and when the party is won or loft, the women of the vi(i:lorious 
 dlftri(ft ftrike up a dance. Iddeah is ufually mlftrefs of the ceremonies, 
 and appoints the number of falls which fliall be made : the party which 
 gains that number firft, is adjudged the viftor; and the vanquifhcd 
 cxprcfs not the leaft dliratlsfadion. In general, the women bear their 
 foils worfe than the mcn^ and betray moft figns of anger at being 
 worfted, 
 
 z z
 
 354 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 They frequently exercifc at qiiarter-ftaff ; and are very expert at de- 
 fending their head, and all other parts of their body : this they praclife 
 from their tendereft age. The fcicnce of defence is a chief objedl ; 
 for a wound in war confers no honour, bxxt rather diferace ; therefore 
 they always hide the fear, if polliblc. 
 
 They praftife the fling for amufemcnt, as well as employ it in 
 battle, and throw a flonc with great force and tolerable exaiflnefs. 
 Their flings are made from the plaited fibres of the cocoa-nut hufk, 
 having a l^roader part to receive the flone : at one end is a loop for the 
 hand, in order to keep the fling faft when they difcharge the flonc. 
 In cliarglng the fling they hold it round their fhoulders, keeping the 
 Hone fall: in it with their left tliumb, and jumping, fwing tlie fling 
 three times round their heads, holding the left hand grafpcd on the 
 ■wrill of the right, and thus difcharge the llone witli a force fufficient 
 to enter the bark of a tree at two hundred } ards diftance ; the ftone 
 flying at an equal diflance from the grovuid, like a bullet, all the way. 
 
 Their dances are various. The heiva is performed by men and 
 women in feparate parties. The women are moft graceiidly drefTcd, 
 and keep exaCl time with the mufic during the performance, obferving 
 a regular movement both of hands and feet, though nothing refem- 
 bling our dances. The heiva is ufually performed by torch-light. 
 The manner is exadly rcprefented in Cook's Voyages. Thev generally 
 dance under cover ; but, by day, before the houics, unlefs it rains, 
 having large mats fpread on the grafs. The women's drefs is a long 
 white petticoat of fine cloth, with a red border, and a red ib'ipe about 
 ten inches from the bottom ; a kind of vcfl:, or corflet, made of white 
 or coloured cloth, comes clofe up under the arms, and covers tlic 
 brealls ; to this they attach two bunches of black feathers at the point 
 of each breafl ; feveral tallels of the fame hang round the w^aift, and 
 fall as low as the knees. Two or three red or black feathers on cucl\ 
 fore-finger fupply the place of rings. On the back, from the flioulder 
 to the hip, are fixed two large pieces of cloth neatly plaited, like a fan. 
 t>r furbelow, and edged with red. Their heads are ornamented with 
 the tamou, or vafl braids of human hair wrapped round like a turban, 
 and fluck full of fragrant and beautiful flowers, intermixed with beads 
 and fhark's teeth : our fine WTiting-paper was alio fjmctimes applied 
 in addition to thcfe ornaments. 
 
 A mailer of ceremonies dirc<5ls the movements of the dancers; and 
 ■when the women retire, their places arc fiippllcd by a. chorus, who 
 fuig with the mufic, or by adors, who perform, pantoaiimcs, iclzing 
 
 1
 
 Appendix.] TO TLIE SOUIH-SEA ISLANDS. 353 
 
 tlic manners of their European \iritors, wliich thcv imitate in great 
 j)crl"cdion : not fpiiring tlie cojidu<fl: (if their own chief's, when objecls 
 of fatirc ; whiclL ferves as a lakitary check and admonition ; for if they 
 are faulty, tlicv arc fure to be piihliclv expofed. 
 
 The houlcs in which the }ici\asare })crformcd are open at the ends 
 and in front, tlie back being fcreencd by matting of cocoa-nut leaves: 
 ronnd the ends and in front of the houfe, there is a low railing of about 
 a foot in height, \s-lthin which the performers exhibit ; and without, 
 the audience fit or lland : the area before the houfe and the floor are 
 all covered with matting. 
 
 Any number of women may perform at once ; but as the drefs is 
 very cxpcnllvc, fcldom more than two or four dance ; and when this 
 is done before the chief, the drcflcs are prefcntcd to him after the 
 heiva is finilhcd ; and thcfc contain thirty or forty yards of cloth, from 
 lonc to four yards wide. 
 
 The ponnara, or evening dance, is performed by any number of 
 women, of any age or dclcription, who chufc to attend at the place 
 appointed, which is ufually the cool fhade. They are drefTed in their 
 bell apparel, and their heads decorated with wreaths of flowers. They 
 divide into two equal parts, about twenty yards dill:ant, and placing 
 thcmlelves in rows oppofite to each other, a fmall green brcad-frvxit is 
 brought by way of football. The leading dancer of one of the party 
 takes this in her hand, and, ftepping out about midway, drops it before 
 her, and fends it with her foot to the oppofite row, returning to her 
 place ; if the ball efcapes, without being flopped in its courfc before it 
 touches the groimd, they flrike up the dance and fmg, beating time 
 with their hands and feet ; this lails about five minutes, when they 
 prepare to receive the ball from the other party who have liood ftill : 
 if they catch the ball, they return it again : if it cfcape them, the other 
 party dance in their turn. After thus amufmg thcmfelves and the fpec- 
 tators for fome hours, tlie ball is kicked away, and both parties flrike 
 up together. It is at this time they ufe the lewd gcftures dcf:ribed 
 by fome of our voyagers ; but tliefe only are pra(^tifed by the young and 
 wanton, who (fays the reporter) are no more to be taken for tl>e 
 flandard of manners than the ladies in the Strand, or the il'anymphs 
 At Spithead, would be fpcciraens of our fair countrywomen. 
 
 ■I z -2
 
 350 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 SECTION VIII. 
 
 Frov'ijions and Cookery, 
 
 THE country abounds in every thing neceffary for the fuftcnance 
 of its inhabitants. They have muhitudes of hogs, which breed rapidly, 
 and fome of a very large fort : dogs are highly rcliflied, and rats arc 
 numerous and troublefome : common fowls are in great abundance. 
 Thefe, with the birds, conftitute the chief of their animal food. 
 
 We had made an effort to increafe their flock, but with little fuccefs. 
 The mare only is yet alive at Ulietea, but the horfe is dead. In their 
 ■wars the cattle were carried to Eimeo ; the bull is deftroyed, and the 
 cows grown wild. The breed of fheep periflied. They made attempts 
 to drefs the beef and mutton ; but having no mode but burning them 
 as the hogs, and baking them in their ovens, the hide was tough as 
 leather, and the tafte highly offenfive : this made them negle<ilcd and 
 defpifed. The goats have had better fpeed, but are diflikcd for their 
 fmell and the mifchief they do the cloth plantations, and are fo inferior 
 to their hogs and dogs, as never to be eaten by the natives ; they are 
 chiefly driven to the mountains. The cats multiply, and are ufcful. 
 We have lately endeavoured to repair the breed of flieep, and though 
 the befi; ram died, there is a profpecl of their increafe under our care, 
 unlefs deftroyed by the natives or their dogs. A neft of rabbits has 
 been produced, and they can hardly fail of fpreading. We have ducks 
 alfo, but they have not yet well fucceeded. A bull fent to Eimeo 
 would continue the breed, though the natives dare not approach the 
 cows, which are grown wild on the mountains. The fame fate at- 
 tended the vegetables, which the former voyagers carried thither, as 
 the animals. Not having patiepce to let them ripen, and tafting them 
 when green, they dcfpiled the grapes, and trod them under foot ; and 
 the pines had hardly a better iflue : but tlie latter are now cultivated, 
 and, under our care, will fbon be a valuable acceffion to their ftock of 
 fruits. The Indian corn would ripen every three months, if they 
 thought it worth their pains. Our brethren will probably greatly in- 
 creafe the number of culinary articles, though the natives have already 
 abundance, and care not for any additions. 
 
 Filh they take of many forts and in great plenty : and they have
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. sr.? 
 
 fuch a profufion of roots, fruits, and ve;.^etables, as can fcarcely be enu- 
 merated : the greater pari: growing fpontaneoufly, and needing neither 
 labour nor culture. The principal of thcfc is the ooRoo, or bread- 
 fruit. This beautiful, ufcful, and highly eftecmcd vegetable feems pe- 
 culiar to the Pacific Ocean, and is in the hlghcft perfeftion at Otaheitc. 
 The tree is of the fizc of a middling oak, which in its branching it 
 greatly refcmbles ; the leaves, however, are more like thofe of the fig- 
 tree, both in colour and fubltance : they are a foot and a half in length, 
 of an oblong form, the edges deeply indented, and the ribs yielding, 
 when'broken, a white milky juice: from the bark, or ftock, a (Irong 
 black gum exudes, which fcrvcs them inftead of pitch for the canoe?, 
 and as birdlime to catch the fmaller birds ; and which, by tappinir, 
 might be produced in great quantities. The tree is of quick growtli, 
 Ihoots again when cut down, and bears fruit in about four years. This 
 moll plentiful and nutritious food grows as large as a man's two fids. 
 Its furface is rough like net- work; the fkin is thin; the core but fmall; 
 the intermediate part, which is eaten, white, and very like the con- 
 fidence of the crumb of a new-baked roll. It is divided like an apple, 
 and the core taken out, and then roafted in their oven, when its talle 
 is very fimilar to the crumb of the fineft wheaten bread, with a flight 
 fwcetnels, as from a mixture of the Jerufalom artichoke. Bcfides fur- 
 nifhing the moft nutritive food, and in the greatell abundance, this 
 tree claims pre-eminence, as affording from its bark the moffc durable 
 clothing ; the wood being excellent for building, and for their canoe.-*, 
 having the fingular property of not being affefted by the worms ; and 
 the leaves are employed as wrappers for dreffing their provifions. 
 When the fruit is ripe they gather it in quantities, and form it into 
 a four palle called iiiahir, which will keep till the fruit is again in feafon. 
 When gathered for this ufe, they fcrape off the outward rind, and lay 
 it in heaps to mcllov/ ; a deep pit is then dug in the ground, and care- 
 fully lined v/ith large leaves ; this cavity is filled with the fruit, and 
 ffrongly thatched down with a ridge like a muftiroom bed ; the whole 
 is prcffed clofc with ftones laid over it : there it ferments and fettles : 
 when tlic fermentation is over, they open the pit, and put up the fer- 
 mented fruit in frclh. leaves, taking out the core, and lloring it for ufe, 
 as we cover up pocatoes for winter. Some, previous to this procefs, 
 cut otit the core, which makes the colour whiter, but prevents it from 
 keeping fo long. 
 
 At this feafon alfo of the ripe bread-fruit, they make a large oven 
 called oppeco. The chief, on this occafion, fummons all his tenants
 
 3,5« FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appenbix. 
 
 and dependants to bring each a ccrtain^quantity of the ripe fruit, which 
 on a dav appointed, is lodged at his houll-, to the amount of filtecn 
 or twenty luindred weight. Thev next repair to the hills for wood, 
 and having colletled each man his burden, they dig a hole eight or uiac 
 feet deep, paving it, and building it up with large pebbles ; this they 
 fill with wood, and fetting it on fire, when burnt out, and the Hones 
 tlioroughly heated, they fpread the embers on the bottom of the pit 
 -with long piles ; thcfe they cover with green leaves and the bruilcd 
 ftalk cf ihj plantain : the pit is filled with the bread-fruit, and covered 
 with flalks and leaves at bottom as on the iides, and hot embers fpread 
 over them-; the oven is then thatclicd down thickly witli grafs and 
 leaves, and the earth that was dug out caft over the whole. After 
 two or three days it is fit for ufe, when they make an opening, taking 
 out as mucli as thev need, and flopping it again clofe. This pafle 
 makes a moll nutritious fweet pudding, and all the children of the fa- 
 mily and their relations feaft on it eagerly. During this feflive feafon 
 they fcldom quit the houfc, and continue wrapped up in cloth : and 
 it is furprifnig to fee them in a month become fo fair and fat, that 
 they can fcarcely breathe : the children afterwards grow amazingly. 
 The bakc-d bread-fruit in this ftate very much in tufle refembles gin- 
 gerbread. 
 
 This is repeated each returning feafon ; nor is it confined to the 
 chiefs, as all may procure it who will be at the pains to provide the 
 oven ; for he who has no bread-fruit of his own, or dependants to 
 fupply it, goes round to his neighbours with garlands, like our May- 
 day ones, of a fhrub called perepcere ; thcfe arc hollow, and capable of 
 containing fufficieut bread-fruit for his family : all of his own rank 
 contribute to fill them ; and if he has hands fufiicient to Icrape them 
 and fill the pit, each brings his })ortion : if not, he leaves word when 
 he means to call on them, and they prepare accordingly. If a chief 
 wants bread-fruit, he fends his garlands round, and they arc fure to 
 come home full ; if he fends cocoa-nut leaves, they form them into 
 bafkcts for the fame purjwfc. But, without feuding, he is fure to be 
 fupplicd with bread' fruit, hogs, and filh, whenever wanted. The hogs 
 are baked in the fame kind of oven. 
 
 OowiiK, or yam.s. Thefc grov/ ^^■!ld in the mountains, from one 
 to fix feet long, and of different thick ncfs. They are very good 
 .eating ; but being prcK:ured at a diflancc and with more trouble, in 
 the bread-fruit feafon they arc little fought after. Thtlb alfo are 
 briked.
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 3S9 
 
 Tarro. The root is from twelve to fixtccn inches long, and nearly 
 as much in girth. It is cultivated in watered grounds, and the Icavts 
 make as good greens as ipinach. They muft be thoroughly drcllcd, or 
 they occafion an unpleafant itching in the fundament. 
 
 OoMARRA. Sweet potatoc. Thefe are in great abundance, b\it 
 very different from thofe in the Weft Indies and America, being in 
 fliapc like the Englifh potatoc, of an orange colour, rofembling the to- 
 mato, and, like them, growing on the llalk. They feem in tafte 
 ncareft the Jerufalem artichoke. 
 
 Yappe. a mountain root, larger than the tarro. It requires to 
 be well dreff.d, as the raw juice is acrid, and fcts the tongue and lips 
 in a great heat, but when properly prepared is very good f:>od. 
 
 Peea. a root like potatoes, and of the nature of caflada. If drelTei 
 •without proper treatment it is bitter, acrid, and unpleafant ; to remedy 
 this, they grate it on coral into a tray, and pour water upon it, which 
 they decant next day, and repeat the ablutions fur live or fix days, Itlr- 
 riiig it up ; by this means all the deleterious quality is walhed away : 
 they then dry it in the fun, and put it up for ufe. It refemblcs ftarch; 
 makes, as flour, excellent pudding ; and, mixed with water, forms a 
 palle for joining and thickening their cloth. 
 
 Mapoora is a fpccies of tarro, growing wild in the mountains, and 
 fnialler than what is cultivated. The juice is acrid and hot ; but, pro- 
 perly dreffed as before, is ufed for food or pafte, as the peca. 
 
 DivvE, a common root, growing every where, large as a potatoc, 
 but moft like the turnip-radifh. It is of a fiery pungent tafte, but 
 lofcs it by being kept all night in one of their ovens, by which alfo 
 the mapoora becomes edible. 
 
 Tee. a root of no great fize, growing in the mountains, fwcetifii-, 
 and producing a juice like molaffes ; when- in want of other prorifions,-^ 
 they dig it up and bake it. The leaves arc ufed to line the pits for th.'i 
 mahie ; and to thatch the temporary huts, in their excurfions to the 
 higher regions. They make ufe of thefe alio to fpare better clothes : 
 v/ith one of thefe leaves round their walfts as a maro, and the plantain 
 over their Ihoulders, thev drcfs for tifliing, or any dirty work. 
 
 Ehuoye. a kind of fern. It onlv grows in the mountains : the 
 root when drcflcd is good food. — There is a variety of other roots 
 growing fpontancoafly, but feldom lifed, except in a fcarclty of bread- 
 fruit, or during any ftay in the mountains: then they dig iip and drcfs- 
 the roots around them, to avoid the trouble of carrying provifions. As- 
 they arc expert at killing ^Irds, with which the hills abound, aud^it
 
 360 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 catching fifli, which the lakes and rivulets furnifla in plenty, they fcl- 
 dom know want ; though fometimes they are detained a confiderablc 
 time in icarch of the landal wood, dyes for their cloth, and fwcct 
 herbs and flowers for perfuming the cocoa-nut oil. 
 
 E'vEE, improperly called the yellow apple, is as large as a nonpareil, 
 and of a bright golden hue ; but oblong, and different in fmell and 
 tafte from our apples, more refembling a peach in flavour, as well as in 
 being a ilone Iruit. It has been compared to a pine-apple or a mango. 
 It grows on a large beautifully fpreading tree, three or four in a bunch; 
 is propagated by feeds or fuckers, foon produces fruit, and is in feafon 
 a great part of the year. The bark furniflies alfo a tranfparent gum, 
 like that on the pkuii-tree, called tapou, which they ufe as pitch for 
 their canoes. 
 
 E'heyaii is a fruit of a red hue, like the European apple in tafle 
 and fubitance, but more watery. It has a great fingularity, of fila- 
 ments hanging from it, which come from the core. This tree is about 
 the fize of a cherry-tree. Thefe two, with another bearing red flowers 
 of an unpleafant fmell, are the only ones which annually flied their 
 leaves ; from the evee they begin to fall in September, and by Chrifl- 
 nias the young leaves and fruit make their appearance ; and the apples 
 ot Matavai begin to ripen in June. The heyah is ripe in November, 
 and the leaves fall in January. The other trees remain in perpetual 
 verdure, never lofmg their leaves altogether, but the young ones fuc- 
 cced the old as they fall. From thefe cider has been made by the 
 mutineers. 
 
 Next to the bread-fruit in ufefulnefs, and almoft equal to it, is the 
 iiEAREE, or cocoa-nut, which affords both meat, drink, cloth, and oil. 
 The hiifks are fpun into rope and lafhings for the canoes, and ufed for 
 calking. Of the lea\es they make bafkcts, bonnets, and temporary 
 houfcs ; and of the trunk, fuel. 
 
 The RATAA, or chefnut, is different both in fize and fliape from 
 thofe of Europe. The fruit is flattened more as a bean, about two 
 inches and a half acrofs, but much refembling a chefnut in tafle, and 
 is roafled like them. 
 
 Shaddocks, tranfplanted from the Friendly Iflands by Britifh navi- 
 gators, and called by the natives oouoo paitaa, foreign bread-fruit, 
 are in no cflimation. The European vilitors likewife have added pine- 
 apples, lemons, limes, Indian corn, tobacco, ginger, &c. which how- 
 ever feem little valued by the iflandcrs. 
 
 Of plantains they have fifteen different forts: the maiden oraya;
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLAxXDS. 361 
 
 the horfc jilantain, paparoa ; tlic mountain, rAvr., &c. The generic 
 name is mayya. The fayc grows only on the mountains, and differs much 
 from all the other fpecics, the fialk being of a raven or deep purjilc co- 
 lour, the leaves larger, and of a deeper green. The fruit grows all 
 round the top of the ftoek, which rifes upright like a fugar- loafed 
 cabbage, and clofelv wedged in by the fide oi' each other ; when ri])c, 
 the fruit is a reddifli brown, and within a greenifli yellow, and lias 
 fomcthing of the fmell of paint ; if cut when young, it iefcnil)les ;ind 
 fmells like cucumber. Of thcfe they make a pudding which taftcs 
 like goofebcrry-fool, called ropoE faye. The root is as g<x)d asy^am. 
 Of plantains alfo they make a pudding, called tooparro, mixed with, 
 tarro and cocoa-nut, very like a cuftard. The cocoa-nut is grated on 
 coral, and mixed with its own milk ; this is wr\ing dry in a ftringy 
 kind of grafs, that cxpreffes the white juice, and leaves the fubftance 
 of the nut behind : into this juice they grate the tarro, and mix the ripe 
 plantain, tying the whole up in plantani-leavcs made tfmgh bv holding 
 ■ them over tlic fire. Thcfe pudding-bags remain all night in the oven, 
 and, when taken out, the pre^xiration may be eaten hot or cold, and 
 will keep for mauy weeks. 
 
 Saypay is another kind of nice pudding made of bread-fruit and 
 cocoa-nut milk in the fame manner ; and often drefled in fmall quan- 
 tities, by puttiiig into it heated ftoncs. 
 
 PoE TARRO is made of the fam' materials, with the addition of the 
 tender leaves ©f tarro broken into it. 
 
 PoE PEEA is made with the gratings of the peca into the expreffed 
 oocoa-nut juice ; and, when well made, refembles a fuet dumpling ; 
 thoiigh, if the peea be eaten in any quantit}', it fomctimes caufes a 
 giddiBefs in the head. 
 
 PopoE is a compound of baked brcad-fniit and mrihic, teat up to- 
 gether in a tray with a ftonc inftrument, and eaten at every meal, 
 ■iiaixed with water or cocoa-nut milk ; and fometimes is made of bread- 
 fruit or milhie feparately, according to the fcveral taftes of the perfons. 
 In this flate it inuch refembles flummery. With this our new-born 
 i-nfant is dally fuppllcd by old Madam Pyetca, and thri^■es greatly. A 
 multittKle of inferior roots and fruits are edible, and might be improved 
 'by cultivation, but the immenfity of tpontancous produce renders it 
 ■unnecefTary. 
 
 The cocoa-nut oil is made by grating the full-grown cocoa-nut ker- 
 nel into a large trough ; after a few days digellion the oil begins to 
 icparatc, which they gently pour off, and mix with it fragrant hcrks 
 
 3 A
 
 362 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 flowers, the farina of the bloflbms of the fwharra, or prickly palm, and 
 fandal wood, leaving the whole to macerate three weeks or a montli, 
 well ftirring the ingredients cAcry day. When it has acquired a ftrong 
 perfume, the oil is wrung out, and put up into bamboos for ufe, and 
 called raanoe. There is a quicker method of extrafting the oil, by 
 cxpofmg the nuts broken to the fun ; but the oil thus drawn is always 
 rancid. 
 
 In preparing a hog for the table, they always either drown or ftrangle 
 it : the latter is ufually preferred. If the hog is large, they make tv/o 
 or three rounds of ftrong cord about his neck, and with a ftick twift it 
 till the breath is flopped, fluffing the noflrils and fnndament with grais, 
 when the animal quickly dies. They wet it all over, and furrounding 
 it with dry leaves or grafs, fuige off" the hair, fcraping it with flicks 
 and cocoa-nut Ihells, and a rough ftone, till the fkin is perfectly clean. 
 With a fplit bamboo, or knife, they open the belly, and take out the 
 entrails and coagulated blood, w^hich they divide into cocoa-nut fhells 
 mixed with fome fat of the cawl : to this they put hot flones, and 
 make a kind of black pudding, by way of whet, whilft the hog is 
 baking. The hog being waflied within, the maw cleaned, and the 
 reft of the guts, the whole is placed in the pit, or oven, refting on its 
 belly, and with it bread-fruit, yams, taro, &c. covered thick with 
 plantain-leaves, hot embers, and grafs, with the earth which was dug 
 out heaped upon it till ready ; which, in a hog of a moderate fize, re- 
 quires at leaft two hours ; if the pig is fmall, lefs than half the time 
 will ferve. The leaves are placed fo carefully, that not a particle of 
 earth reaches the provifions, either in going in or coming out. In the 
 fame manner they drefs all their other food ; and they like it well 
 drefled, except their filh, which they prefer raw. Their cookery is 
 fimply baking or broiling, as they have no veffel of their own capable 
 of bearing the fire. However, they lofe nothing of the delicacy of their 
 food in baking ; and filh fo drefled is preferable to being boiled. 
 
 They iriake three meals a day when at home, and eat heartily ; and 
 nothing pleafcs them more than to obfcrve a ftranger eat with appe- 
 tite. When at a diflance from their ufual abode, and great multitudes 
 are aflcmbled in one diflrid:, provifions cannot be furniflied for all in 
 proper feafon, and they content themfelves with one meal a day ; and 
 \\ hen thus completely hungry they may well pafs for voracious with 
 thofe who have their regular meals, and are fatiated with the plenty 
 around them ; befides, every one endeavours to procure abundance for 
 the ftranger, even though be lliould go himfelf with a hupgry belly.
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 363 
 
 The greateft part of their diet is vegetable, and it docs not often fall 
 to the lot of inferiors to have a regular fupply of animal food. What- 
 ever the fea produces they cat, affirming that nothing unclean can 
 come from water. 
 
 In eating they fit crofs-legged on the ground, or on leaves: they firft 
 make their offering to the Eatooa (for this even heathens feel their 
 bounden dutv), then vtaih their hands, and begin {luffing their mouths 
 full of bread-fruit, and dip their fifh or flefh in a cocoa-nut fliell of fait 
 water, which is their falt-cellar. They are ever ready to divide their 
 provifion with thofe who have none. Any place ferves for a dining- 
 room ; they often fquat down on the grafs, or under a fhady tree, and 
 always eat fcparately, for fear of incommoding each other with their 
 fly-flaps. Green leaves from the neareft tree afford them a table-cloth, 
 and before them is a cocoa-nut flicU of frefli as well as fait water. 
 
 Befides their hogs and poultry, their dogs are efteemcd excellent 
 food, and much preferred to goat's flclh, being fed wholly on vege- 
 tables ; the goats, though numerous, we never faw them touch. Their 
 fowls do not differ from our own ; and in tendernefs and flavour are 
 nothing inferior. 
 
 They feldom plant bread-fruit trees, as they fprlng again from the 
 roots wherever cut down ; but they make large plantations of cocoa- 
 nuts and plantain : a beautiful grove near One Tree hill was fet by the 
 hands of Pomarre and Iddcah. Ttiefc plantations are ufually the work 
 of the chiefs, who generally excel the lower clafles, whether in fports 
 or ingenuity. The noble women are the principal cloth-makers ; nor 
 is it the leaf!; difparagcment for a chief to be found in the midll of his 
 workmen labouring with his own hands ; but it would be reputed a 
 great difgrace not to fhow fuperior llcill. Like the ancient patriarchs, 
 they aflift in preparing and cooking food for their vifitors.' 
 
 SECTION IX. 
 
 Birds. ■ ' 
 
 THE number of the feathered tribe is very great. Befide the com- 
 mon tame fowl, they have wild ducks, parroquets of various kinds, the 
 blue and white heron, fly-flapper, woodpecker, doves, boobies, nod- 
 dies, gulls, petcrels, fand-larks, plover, martin, men-of-war and tropic 
 
 3 A 2
 
 364 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 bird?, with a multitude of others unknown to us. The mountains pro- 
 duce a great variety of a larger and fmaller fize, for beauty and for 
 fong ; thefe are nev^er feen on the low lands, nor near the fea. 
 
 The tropic- birds build their nefts in holes of the cliffs; and as their 
 long feathers are held in requcft for their partes and mourning dreffes, 
 they procure them in the following dangerous manner. From the top 
 of the high cliffs, beaten by the waves beneath, a man is lowered down 
 by a rope, feated acrofs a ftick : he fearches all the holes from bottom 
 to top, i winging from point to point by a ftaff he holds in his hand,- 
 and hy the Hones which project, or the Ihrubs which grow there. 
 W hen he-finds a bird on her ncft, he plucks out her tail feathers, and 
 lets her fly. When he can find no more birds, or is tired ot the labour. 
 he gives the fignal to be drawn up. Dreadful as it may appear to be 
 thus hanging thirty or forty fathom down, and tour times as many to 
 the bottom, few accidents ever happen ; tho\igh the Iport is often 
 continued for many hours together. 
 
 They fet a peculiar value on the fliining black feathers of the men- 
 of-war birds, which being birds of paffagc, they \Natch their arrival at 
 the rainy fcafon ; a float of light wood is then launched into the water, 
 baited with a fmall fifli, as foou as they obfervc the bird approaching, 
 v/hilfl they ftand ready with a long pole of fixteen or eighteen fett 
 witliin reach of the float. The moment the bird pounces on the fifTi 
 to feize it, they flrikc at him- with the pole, and feldom fail of bringing 
 him down ; if they mifs their aim, the bird cannot be again temp^cd 
 to approach. The cock bird is moil valuable, and a large hog will be 
 fometimes exchanged for one. 
 
 The fmaller birds are caught with the bread-fruit gum made intt> 
 birdhnie, and fpread on fticks of bamboo. Thofe who frequent the 
 mountains will often kill them with a ftone thrown by hand. Ufe in 
 thib fport has made them fine markfmcn ; they point at the bird with 
 the fore-finger of the left hand, as if taking aim, and feldom fail of 
 bringing him down, if at no great diftancc ; but on the wing they as 
 ftldom. fucceed.
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTIi-SEA ISLANDS. 3Gfi 
 
 SECTION X. 
 F'lpicry. 
 
 THEIR fifliini^-tacklc conflfts of feinc!; of all fizcs, from five fathoms 
 to fiity, and fn^ni one to twelve fathoms dcen. They have lines aiid 
 hooks oi all forts. Thcfe feines and lines arc formed from the bark 
 of a flirub called roeva, which fcldom grows larger than hen;ip, and 
 looks like it when dreffed. There are fevcral other forts of an inferior 
 quality. They twift the filaments on their thigh with their han is, 
 and wind up the thread into balls, fome of two, fome of three threads; 
 but they feldom make their lines of more than two threads, even ibr 
 dolphins ; the three threads being more liable to kink and get foul, 
 when of any confiderable length ; and as they always play the dolphin, 
 are more apt to fnap. Their hooks are made of pearl-fhells, thouo-h 
 they prefer iron, and form a nail into an- excellent hook. Our hooks 
 were highly efteemed by thom. They have dirferent fizes and different 
 fliapes for the different kinds of fifh.- Some are made to reprefcnt the 
 flying-fiflo, others for putting, on real iiflv or what other bait the fifh 
 will take. 
 
 For the dolphin they fifh in failing canoes, at four or five miles 
 diftance from land. They never put out a line till they dlfcover a fifh, 
 when they make fure of it, as they bait with flying-fidi prepared for 
 that purpofe. When the dolphin is hooked they play him till fpent, 
 when they bring him alongfidc by degrees, and lay hold on the tail, 
 by which they lift him in, never depending on the hook and line. 
 When they have got to* the fifliing ground they ply to windward. 
 About fifty or fixty canoes from Matavai arc employed in this fiihery 
 during the feaf^u, which laffs about fix months, as thefc fifh follov/ 
 the fun. While the fun is to the north they are- fcarce ; when he 
 pafies the line, in great plenty. They fpawn about March, and then 
 the filhery ceafes, arvd the canoes arc othcrwifc emploved, cither in 
 trading to the iflantls, or in fitting for the albicorc and b'onctta fifberv, 
 which next commences. 
 
 While the dolphin filhery laffs, numbers of large flying-fiih arc 
 caught by the following means : a number of fmalT white fficks, fix 
 or eight feet long, are prepared, uud weighted with a ftone to keep
 
 366 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appentjix, 
 
 them ercdl in the water : to each of" thefe they fix a fliort hue and a 
 hook of bone baited with cocoa-nut kernel. Thele they caft out into 
 the fea as they are Handing off at a difcance from each other, and 
 taking them up at their return, generally find a fifh at every hook ; fo 
 that if they have no fuccefs at the dolphin fifhery, they do not return 
 empty-handed, and fometimes bring in fliarks and other filh. 
 
 To fifli for AAHYE, or albicore, and the parroa, or bonetta, they 
 have a double canoe ; on this a crane is fixed, at the head of whicli 
 they have two lines made fall to a fpreading fork, forn>ing two 
 horns, and at the back a rope. The heel is fixed in a roller on the 
 fore part of the canoe, and all but one man are kept abaft to attend 
 the back rope. The man who ftands forwards baits the hook, and 
 when they fee a filh they lower down the crane till the bait touches 
 the water. The man forwards keeps heaving out water with a fcoop, 
 -and now and then cafts out a fmall filh. The moment an albicore is 
 hooked he gives the fignal, and thofe abaft raife up the cra-ne, and 
 the filli fwings in to the man, who is ready to feize him. Sometimes 
 the fifh is fo large, and the canoe fo light, that, without much care, 
 the albicore carries it under water ; yet feldom any other damage en- 
 fues than the lofs of the hook and filh. 
 
 The PEERARA, or llcipjack, is caught with a long bamboo and line; 
 
 but from its fize is more eafily lifted in. Moft of the other filh are 
 
 taken vi'ith feines, which fometimes enclofe turtle, or by hook and line 
 
 in fmall canoes ; and if they hook a large filh, they fteer the canoe 
 
 after him till he is fpent, and then lift him in. In this manner they 
 
 take the ooroaa, or cavally, the eavva, or white falnion, and feveral 
 
 of the larger fort. The canoe being light bears little llrain, and the 
 
 iilli is foon exhaulled. The marara, or flying fifh, are caught in 
 
 feines of about twelve or fifteen fathoms long, and one and a half deep. 
 
 With thefc they go out in fmall canoes, and Ihoot them round the 
 
 fifia ; fplafliing the water and rapping the fides of the feine with their 
 
 paddles till the filli dart into the net, and mella themfelves. If the 
 
 weather is calm, and a number of canoes fall in with a flioal of filh, 
 
 they join their nets, and furround them ; then all leap into the water 
 
 and dive, rifing with a filh in each hand, befidis thofe that arc mcfhed 
 
 in the nets. They then haul them in, take out the filh, and follow 
 
 the fhoal, proceeding in the fame manner. Thofe who filh for the 
 
 dolphin-bait continue out great part of the night, and the darker the 
 
 better. When thus employed they fometimes meet the fword-fifli, 
 
 who ftrikes through the canoe, and repeats the ftroke in two or three 
 
 \
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 36; 
 
 places before the fvvord flicks faft enough to hold him. They leap 
 overboard immediately with a rope and running noofe, and fccure 
 him ; but muft inflantly haften on Ihorc, to prevent the canoe from 
 fuiking. They catch alio Iharks, though not very large, with the fame 
 noofcd rope. Tiie fmallcr fifli take reluge under the canoe, and as the 
 ilaark approaches they arc ready to fccure him. Quantities of fine 
 rock-fifh are caught in pots. They are alfo expert at diving after 
 them, and the totarua, or hcdgehog-fifii, which they fcldom catch 
 in any other way. This filh, when purfucd, takes refuge under the 
 coral rock ; thither the diver purfucs him, and brings him up with a 
 finger in each eye. They fomctimcs continue under water an ailo- 
 nilhing while, chafing the filh from hole to hole, and riie with one in 
 each hand. The weather jnuft be calm for good fport, as the leaft 
 ripple on the Avater darkens the bottom. In dark nights they employ 
 torches to draw the fifii around the canoes, and have lading-nets ready 
 to fcoop them up. . When the fifli come into flioal water to fpawn, 
 they ftrip cocoa-nut leaves from the ftem, and knotting them on a 
 line, fweep with them the reefs and fhoal places, till they force them 
 near the beach ; when, with lade-ncts or fmall fcincs, they take great 
 quantities. 
 
 Befides thefe methods of fifliing, they ufe two or three-pronged 
 forks of toa wood, darting them at a diftance from the beach, and 
 when they ftrlkc a fifli fvvim after it ; others, with many prongs, are 
 liurled amidll a fhoal from their canoes, and fomctimes ftrike two or 
 three fifli at once. 
 
 Whales are feldom killed, except now and then young ones which 
 get entangled in the reefs, or arc thrown over them by the heavy 
 furf. When they difcover one in this fituation, they furround him 
 with their canoes, and thruft into him their war fpears ; but often have 
 their canoes dalhed in pieces before they can difpatch him. 
 
 Their fifli arc numberlefs, of all fizes, forts, and colours, common 
 to tropical regions ; and many which are peculiar to thofe feas, and for 
 which no Englifli names are known. Their fifliing-tackle difplays the 
 grcatefl ingenuity, and can only be exceeded by their art in ufnig it ; 
 in this no nation can vie with them. The fiflierman builds his own 
 canoe, njakes his lines and hooks, and bait, and all the necelfary appa- 
 ratus. The liooks are groimd with coral, from pcarl-fliclls, bones, the 
 tulks of boars, and fornetlmes of hard wood ; and of dilFerent fbapes 
 and fizes, according to the nature of the fiflierv. Some are formed 
 hkc our artificial files, and ferve for bait and hook together, and
 
 368 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 though not bearded fcldom lofc the fiih once hooked ; and notwith- 
 ftandhig the form to us appears moll: Glumfy and. rude, they will fuc- 
 cced, when we, with cur bell hooks, cannot. 
 
 The women who are not of the blood royal, er married to fuch, arc 
 forbidden to cat turtle, whale, porpoife, Ihark, albicore, and dolphin. 
 The turtle not being caught in any great plenty, and regarded as a 
 facred fifh, is ufually lent to the chief, and eaten at the moral. 
 
 The fhell-filh are abundant ; pearl and fmall common oyfters, crabs, 
 cray-fifh, cockles, fomc of an enormous fize, conchs, mufclcs, tigers, 
 winkles of various kinds, wilks, clams, prawns, flirimps, fea-cggs, and 
 fhcUs of peculiar beauty ; there arc alio land crabs, but feldom eaten. 
 
 During the rains thcv catch great quantities of fmall fry at the 
 mouth of the ri\'ers : they form a large net, or rather a vaft bag, of 
 the cocoa-nut hufk Icwed together, with .a wide mouth to receive the 
 ftrcam, which is held open and fccured by Hones to the bottom. With 
 cocoa-nut kaves ftrippcd ap.dtied together,' called row, they fweep all 
 before them into the ba.g-net, ^nd catch buflicls at a draudit. Some- 
 times the women take each a bag-net and balket, forming a line acrofs 
 the river,^and hold it to the bottom by their feet, and the mouth open 
 with their hands ; and when they have filled their balkct, go home 
 and drefs them. They feldom return. empty-handed, and the queen 
 hcrfclf and her mother are as oftt:n engaged in this work as any others. 
 They have .alfo the fame methods pra<flifed with us, of running a 
 dam acrofs the river -where it is. llioal, and leaving only fluices open, 
 where the bag-nets are fixed : they go above, and plunge and beat the 
 water, to drive the f.flx into the net ; though to this they have fcldom 
 recourfe till the waters are low, and the filh become fcarce. 
 
 When they angle they ftand in die fca up to the flioulders, ufing a 
 
 long baiTiboo fifliing-rod, and catch numbers of fine fifh, particularly 
 
 the mavoy, er lea- chub, with others of a delicious kind, as the white 
 
 mullet : the red arc ufually caught in fcines, and ufed as bait fur the 
 
 , albicore and bone':ta. 
 
 There is a fifh of the conger cel kind whi-ch is poilbnous, and afFedls 
 them as fom.stimes mufclcs do us in England, but in a greater d.grce, 
 producing. A'all fwcllings in the body, hands.s and ioct, and even de- 
 priving the limbs of fenfc and motion : they have, however, found out 
 a mc. licin-: v/hich in a few days expels the poil<)n. An Englilhman 
 ate of this fifh without inconAcnicncc, whilfl a native who devoured 
 A\hiit vvas lef" was almoft raving mad, his limbs fwollen, inflamed as 
 in thefuarlct i'c\cr, with excruciating pain, and his eyes roUin^g as if
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 3<5g 
 
 they would ftart from their fockets : yet, after ten or twelve da} s he 
 recovered, by a preparation of herbs miniftered b)- a pricll with m.my 
 prayers. Tliis kind of filh is about twenty inches long, the fins edged 
 with green, the fkin of a browni/h hue, and called by the natives 
 pvlilic, firre, rcnvtc. It is caught about the reefs, and Ibme arc not 
 poifonous, though they know not certainly how to diftinguilh the good 
 from the bad. There is alfo a fmall red crab, no bigger than a horfe- 
 bean, fo very deleterious, that it always kills the perfon \\\v, eats it. 
 The hootdo, like our cocuhis indicus, is fomctimes ufed by them to 
 intoxicate and poifon the filh ; but this never injures the perlon who 
 feeds upon them. 
 
 SECTION XI. 
 
 Trees and SJirubs. 
 
 THEIR trees exhibit the greatcft beauty and variety ; two are par- 
 ticularly remarkable for their flowers and fragrance. The teayre 
 has milk-white flowers, of a delicate fmell, fomething like jafmine : 
 with thefc they adorn their hair, being very fond of perfumes. The 
 tree is large, and covered with flowers ; it grows in the low lands, and 
 is cultivated with great care. The other is a native of the mountains, 
 and called booa ; it bears a light yellow flower of Angular beauty and 
 fcent, with which the women tbrm bandeaus for their hair. They 
 have many other flowers of lefs fragrance. The tobacco planted by 
 Captain Cook is fpread over the ifland, the natives being particularly- 
 fond of the red bloilbm it bears. All forts of fweet-fmelling flowers 
 would be highly prized by them. They have a variety of fwect herbs, 
 which they employ in perfuming their cloth and oil; one fort, a kind 
 of mint, they call mabooa. The tomanoo nuts aflbrd alfo a perfume 
 when pounded ; they mix them with vvatcr, and fleep their cloth in 
 it, and for many days it retains a powerful fcent, but by decrees it 
 is loft. 
 
 A'ouTE, the morus papyrifera, the cloth-plant, or Chinefe paper 
 mulberry: there are two kinds in ufe, the one called myerke, the 
 tithcr PO-OROw. This they carefully cultivat; , fencin;:- the plantations 
 with a ditch, to prevent the hogs and goats from having accefs to 
 
 2 b
 
 370 FIRST MISSIONAKY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 them, efpcclally the latter, which do much mifchief by barking them, 
 and are therefore tied up, or driven into the mountains. The plants 
 of this tree flioot up like ofiers, and when about ten or twelve feet in 
 height, and three inches in circumference, they are cut down and care- 
 fully ftripped of their bark : of this their flneft white cloth is made. 
 The rind being taken off, is carried to the water, the cuticle fcraped off 
 carefully, and well waflied, till the fap and flimc are feparated from it; 
 they wrap this in plantain-leaves, and leave it for three days to digeft, 
 by which time it becomes clammy and fit for working into cloth. The 
 bark is next fpread of a regular thicknefs on the beam where it is to be 
 beaten, about eight inches wade, and they begin with the grooved 
 beetle to fpread it out to a proper breadth and equal thicknefs in every 
 part. A number of plantain-leaves are laid on the ground, and on 
 thefe the cloth is fpread to bleach in the early morning dew for feveral 
 days, removing it as the fun grows high : when perfeftly bleached, it 
 is dried, and rolled up in bundles for ufe. This cloth is called hooboo 
 and parrawye : if they wilh it to be clouded, they break the outer 
 bark with a ftone, and wrap the flicks in leaves for three or four days 
 before they bark them. 
 
 They mix alfo the inner bark of the tender branches of the bread- 
 fruit tree with the cloth-plant, and prepare it in the fame manner. If 
 a chief, or man of property, has cloth to be made, he fends the mul- 
 berry-plants in bundles to his tenants, and they mix them with the 
 bread-fruit, and bring home the cloth when prepared. If he needs a 
 piece of very large dimenfions, he tells them when he fhall fct about 
 it : on this day the women of the diftrid affemble with their beetles, 
 each bringing a quantity of materials ; and the ground being covered 
 with plantain-leaves, they place their work in a line, and fet to it all 
 together, beating time to a fong given out by one of their principal 
 Jielpers : and when they ftrike up, make a vaft noife, tw^o hundred 
 fometimes being employed on one piece of cloth four fathoms wide, 
 and forty fathoms long. 
 
 Their cloth is made of a variety of colours, black, white, and feveral 
 fnadcs of crimfon, yellow, gray, and brown. The black is dyed with 
 the fap of the mountain-plantain, or under the roots of fuch cocoa-nut 
 trees as grow in wet and fwampy grounds, w here they lay the cloth to 
 foak for a day or two, then dry it, repeating the procefs till it becomes 
 a deep black, when it is wafhed in fait water to hx the colour. This 
 is called oowery. The brown is dyed or tanned with the bark of fe- 
 veral trees, cfpeclally the toa, which gives a line bright colour, height-
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 371 
 
 ened by the fun. The bark is fcrapcd with a flicll, and after lying to 
 infufc in water, and wrung out, tlic cloth is dipped in the infufion, and 
 fprcad in the fun to dry, repeating the operation till it becomes a fine 
 bright brown, called heere and powheere. The yellow is cxtraded 
 from turmeric or reya, which grows here in great abundance, the 
 country being over-run with it, and capable of furniflilng any quantity, 
 at well as of poohey, ava, or ginger. The gray is the natural colour 
 of the cloth when unbleached; after being half worn it may be dyed 
 brown, and lined with white, by pafling two cloths together ; this is 
 called hopaa. The red is produced from the mattde berry. 
 
 When the brown cloth is worn out they bark the branches of the 
 bread-fruit, and mix the old brown cloth with the new bark, beating 
 them together, which makes a mottled piece : this they dip in a light 
 yellow prepared from the root of a fhrub called nono, which gives it a 
 beautiful appearance ; they line it alfo with white, and infufmg per- 
 fumes in the yellow dye, call the cloth opotta potta : they have yet 
 another kind of cloth called marra, made of the mulberry bark, half 
 beaten : this confifts of fevcral layers of irregular thicknefs, for upper 
 garments. At this the arreoics are peculiarly expert, though it is 
 reckoned women's work, and requires ll^ill and nicety in the joining, 
 to prevent the part pafted on from ftiffening the cloth : this they paint 
 with a beautiful crimfon called mattde, extracted from a berry growing 
 on a tree of the fame name. The cxpreffed juice of the berry they 
 mix witii the leaves of another tree called tow, and imprint fprigs and 
 leaves on tl\e cloth by wetting them with this juice, and impreffing 
 them on tlie cloth according to their fancy. The berries of the mattde 
 are brown when ripe, of tlic fize of a floe ; and being gathered, they 
 nip them between the thumb and finger, expreffuig a yellow drop or 
 two, which they fprinkle on the leaf of the tow, by hitting one hand 
 again!]: the other : two or three drops fuffiee for a leaf. When the 
 berries are all nipped, and the leaves wetted, they are worked with the 
 hands in a wooden tray, fprlnkling water on them till a beautiful crim- 
 fon colour begins to appear, when they exprefs the dye from the leaves, 
 and throw them away. They lay on the colour with a fnjall brufli of 
 llringy fibres, made of a rulli called niooo, like a camel's hair pencil. 
 
 There are other trees from which cloth is made, but the procefs is the 
 fame in all. Sometimes they paftc together pieces of different colours, 
 cut into curious fliapes, in which dilplay of talle the arr'-oics excel. 
 
 The women, with their feminine male aflTociates, make the cloth; 
 the men provide the materials. The beam on which tlie bark is Iprcad 
 
 3 B 2
 
 •372 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix, 
 
 is about twelve feet long, made of a hard wood called marra, iquared 
 to, fix or eight inches, and finely fmoothed on the upper fide. The 
 beetles are formed of tba, about fourteen inches long, and two and a 
 half fquare. The fides are grooved of four different fizes, as the cloth 
 is to be made of a finer or coarfer thread ; the handle is round ; the 
 •beetle is called ayey ; the beam, tdootdooa. 
 
 Tdootdooa, a large tree like the chefnut, bears a nut flatter, and 
 A-ery oily. It will not burn well till a little fcorched in the oven, when 
 it is flrung on the rib of the cocoa-nut leaf, and affords a tolerable 
 light. The bark of the root of this tree alfo affords a light brown dye-, 
 and the flock is good fuel. 
 
 The fruit-trees have been mentioned under the article of provifions; 
 it remains only to dcfcribe the principal trees on the mountains. 
 
 To A is a large tree, the wood fo exceedingly hard as to be wrought 
 with the greateil: difficulty,^ even with the hardeii: iron tool. The befl 
 axe is prefently fpoiled, as if cutting againft flone ; yet of this they 
 form their war clubs, fpears, clotli-beaters, and, what is marvellous-, 
 with their own tools of ftone and bone. Their clubs are from four to 
 fix feet long ; and their fpears from fourteen to eighteen feet. The 
 bark affords a brown dye. 
 
 ToMANOo, a vafl fpreading tree: out of this they form their ca- 
 noes, pillows to fleep, and fiools to fit upon, pudding dilhes, and trays, 
 all wrought v\ith infinite labour out of the folid W'ood. The grain 
 refembles walnut, and will take a high polifli. It bears a feed, or 
 rather nut, which is ufed with other ingredients to perfume their cloth; 
 and is applied externally for vvounds, and internally, for the ill effe^fts 
 arifing from eating fome kinds of fifli. 
 
 Marra, a large tree : the wood hard; and when yoiing, white ; 
 when old, brown. It is of a fine c:rain like box, and ufed for buildina: 
 canoes; it alfo makes paddles for war canoes, cloth beams, axe and adze 
 helves and handles, &c. 
 
 FwHYFWHy grows to the fize of an oak, its grain refembling the 
 white oak, and is ufed for canoes, chefts, and planks for variovis ufes. 
 
 Am a I, a clofe-gramed wood, refembling mahogany, has a fweet 
 iinell : it bears a pod not unlike the fcarlet bean. The tree is large, 
 and ufed for canoes, and alfb for all tool handles. When planted in 
 the morais, it is there called roava, and its leaves are employed in their 
 religious cercmonic-;. The flibfUtute and ambaflador of a chief always 
 carries the branch of this tree in his hand, to give weight to the 
 mcffage he delivers, this being regarded as an emblem of truth ;
 
 Ai't'ENDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 373 
 
 and he that bears It is heard and received as if the chief himfelf were 
 prefcnt. 
 
 TtroY. A large tree, tlie wood hard, and ufed for common and 
 war canoes, for fmooth planks on which to fcrapc the cloth-phmt, and 
 many other ufes.- 
 
 PooRow refembles our elm, and is employed in building canoes, 
 rafters for lioufes, and paddles ; the infide bark makes wafliing-mats, 
 ropes, and lines : fome of thefc mats are very fine, and worn in wet 
 weather. 
 
 EvTo. A very large tree, the wood areddifla brown, like mahogany, 
 nearly as hard as toa, and ufed in many parts of the canoes. The bark 
 afFords a brown dye for cloth, nets, and lines; and, though only fteeped 
 in cold water, the colour never waflies out. 
 
 Teruotaya, a hard whit& wood, very tough, forms the out- 
 riggers for canoes, railing for houfes, and all fudi kind of faicing, and 
 is preferred on account of its durability. 
 
 Eaje, the yellow and brown fandal wood, growls in the mountains, 
 but is fcarcc ; being precious, its growth might be encouraged, by 
 planting, or perhaps a more careful examination will difcover a greater 
 abundance. 
 
 HooTDOo. A. large fp reading tree, the wood not hard, employed 
 in building canoes ; bears a large nut, thick in the middle, and ta- 
 pering at each end. It will intoxicate the fifli, when mixed with bait, 
 fo that they rife to the furface, and may be taken by hand, but is not 
 often ufed. 
 
 Tow. A low tree, with wide fpreading branches. The wood is 
 white and foft ; of this they make li:oops for bailing the canoes. The 
 leaves, with the matcde berry, form, the beautiful fcarlet dye» Tha 
 flower has a fragrant fmeH. 
 
 Mattoe is about the fize of a cherry-tree ; the berries arc as large 
 as the floe, or wild grape ; when ripe, of a deep brown. The bark 
 makes lines, and thread for feines ; it alfo affords a fpecies of cloth, 
 and very fine white matting. 
 
 NoNO, a fmall tree, bears a fruit like four fop.' The infide b.;rk of 
 the root produces a fine light yellow dye 
 
 Eawwa. The wild Hoc tree. The bark, when young, yields 
 the fine gray ck :h called oraa,. the moft ferviceable and valued of all 
 their manufad:urcs. The branches hang down and take root again,- 
 farming a duller, as a trunk of enormous fize.
 
 374 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 EvAVYE, the filk cotton, grows in great abundance, about the fize 
 of a rofe-tree ; but the natives never gather the pods, nor make any 
 ufe of it. 
 
 RoA, a fmall fhrub, Uke hemp ; the bark, when cleaned and dreffed, 
 anfwers the fame purpofe, and makes, when fpun, the ftrongeft lines 
 and cords. 
 
 Oh HE, the bamboo, a moft ufeful tree, grows in abundance on the 
 hills, rifmg to the height of fixty feet, and of confiderablc thicknefs, 
 though not very ftrong. They ufe them, when full grown, for veflels to 
 hold their oil, plain or perfumed, fait water, and any other liquids. 
 They make good fences for houfes : fplit fine, they ferve for carving- 
 knives ; are ufed for fifhing-rods, for hooking down the bread-fruit, 
 for cafes, quivers for arrows, flutes, and a variety of other things. Of 
 the fmallcr fort their arrows are made. 
 
 Aeeho, or reed. With thefe, fences are made; they ferve to lay 
 under the thatch and fupport it. They grow very thick on the 
 mountains, and are fometimes fet on fire, to clear the ground. 
 
 The OPORRO, or red Chili pepper, like the tobacco is fpread over 
 the ifland. 
 
 EoM'TAY is a fhrub about the fize of a rofe-tree. It bears a red 
 fragrant flower, with which they deck their hair. Inwardly it is taken 
 as a medicine for fore eves, a common diforder amonc: the children. 
 When beat up in popoe, or pudding, it gi^-cs a tartnefs, to many very 
 agreeable. 
 
 Fwharra. The prickly palm. The leaves are fix feet long, and 
 four inches broad, with (harp prickles on the edges, and down the rib 
 in the middle. This forms their thatch, the leaves lapping over eacli 
 other, and fewed on the reed with the ftem of a cocoa-nut leaf. The 
 fliarpencd rib of a hog fupplies the place of our thatcher's needle. The 
 leed of this tree is formed by an aflemblage of nuts, of the fhape of 
 pine, of a yellow colour when ripe, and having a fragrant fmell and 
 tafte. The bloflbm, which is of a buff colour, and full of farina, 
 highly perfumed, is a chief ingredient in fccnting the cocoa-nut oil. 
 The tree flourifhes on the moll: fandy barren foil : the outfide circle 
 of wood is very hard, and furniflies points for their javelins; the infide 
 is foft and fpongy. The roots rife above ground, and fupport the 
 item like fliores, Handing thick round the bottom. The leaves furnilh 
 matting lor the canoes, and mats for their heivas ; fome of the latter 
 are ten or twelve fathoms long, and two fathoms wide.
 
 AprENDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 370 
 
 Paapa. a fpccics of the former, but without its prickles. Of 
 this arc mudc the tincr mats, on which they fleep, and fomctimcs wear 
 thcni ill wet weather, or iii the water. 
 
 PuiiiEPiRUE ii a fmall Ihrub, of a balfjimic qvialit}', not unhke gum 
 ciftus. From th.e bark tiic matting of the fuiell texture is made for 
 their maro, or falhcs. 
 
 Opouuo VYn NOOHE. A fine fhrub remarkable for its growth. 
 The root, in talle, not unlike liquorice. The colour white. The ftoek 
 Ihoots up about eighteen inches, and then branches off into a kind 
 of crown : when it dies to the ftock, it is renewed by another fhoot 
 yearly. 
 
 Eay eay. a running flirub, or vine. From this they form their 
 bafkcts to catch lliell-fifli, and others called pureta. It is ufed in 
 thatching to fix the palm-leaf to the rafters, for railing to their houfes, 
 and lor kifliings, that are more durable than cord. 
 
 Yava is a Ihrub, whofe root is peppery and hot: as it furnifhes 
 their only intoxicating beverage, it is cultivated with great care. The 
 preparation is difgufting : fcveral women have each a portion given 
 them to chew, of the ftem and root together, which, when maflicatcd, 
 they fpit into a bowl, into which fome of the leaves of the plant arc 
 finel y broken ; they add water, or cocoa-nut liquor : the w hole is then 
 wxU llirred, and begins quickly to ferment, when it is ftrained or 
 wrung out in the moo grafs, or cocoa-nut fibres, and drank in cups of 
 folded leaves. It is highly intoxicating, and feems for a while to de- 
 prive them of the ufe of their limbs : they lie down and fleep till the 
 effeds are paffed off, and during the time have their limbs chafed with 
 their women's hands. A gill of the yava is a fufficient dofe for a man. 
 When they drink it, they always eat fomething afterwards, and fre- 
 quently fall afleep with the provifions in their mouths : when drank 
 after a hearty meal it produces but little effed. After fome continu- 
 ance of yava-drinking, the fkin begins to be covered ^^■ith a whitifh 
 Icurf, like the leprofy, which many regard as a badge of nobility : the 
 eyes grow red and inflamed ; and the foles of the feet parched and 
 cracked into deep chaps, as fome lips in w^inter. On the difcontinu- 
 ance of the practice, however, the fkin foon becomes fmooth and 
 clean, and they x£;row fat, though few are found who deny themfelves 
 the ufe of it. This vice is confined moftly to the chiefs and their fol- 
 lowers ; the common people can feldom procure fuch an indulgence. 
 
 Toe, or fugar-cane, grows here fpontaneoufiy, of a fizc equal to 
 any in cither Indies, and if cultivated, would be much larger and
 
 376 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [ArrEXDir. 
 
 richer ; but the natives make very little ufe of it, except to chew a 
 piece as they arc travelling; and when it gets high, they often fet it 
 on fire to clear the land. 
 
 Hoo ERRO TOOMo, the cabbage-tree, grows in the mountains, but 
 to no great fize. The natives feldom eat it. The leaves refembic 
 fern, and form a circle round the top of the tree, the cabbage rifmg in 
 the middle. The tree is about thirty feet high ; the bark rough, and 
 hanging down like the fcales of a hfli from top to bottom. 
 
 Among the herbs there is a kind of creiles which furnifhes an agree- 
 able lalad. Radilhcs, calliloo, and all our culinary vegetables, are now 
 cultivated ; but the Otaheltcans are partial to their ow n produce, and 
 little relilh what we have brought them, regarding them as curiofites, 
 rather than of any utilit^^ 
 
 SECTION XII. 
 
 ■Canoes. 
 
 THEIR canoes are of different fizes : they are narrow, and have 
 outriggers, or arc doubled by lafliing two together. The ivar canoes 
 are always double, from fixty to ninety feet long, about three teet wide, 
 and 3!X in depth : the ftern rifcs from tw<;1vc to twenty-four feet high. 
 They are ftrongly iccured by crofs pieces, firmly bound, and extenduig 
 over both fides, being; fifteen or twentv feet in lensith. The canoes 
 themfelves are from four to fix feet afunder ; on thcfe a ftage is crcdied 
 for the warriors : in the ftage there are Icuttle-holes for paddling. 
 Each canoe is paddled by fixty or a hundred men ; and the largeft ca- 
 pable of carrying three lumdrcd peribns. On the fore-part, a breaffc- 
 work of plank is raifed about four feet high ; at this the fpearmen are 
 polled; behind them the llingers, with piles or balkets of ftones ; and 
 every paddler has this weapon. Their attacks are made ^vith great 
 fury, running on board their ad\^rfary, and fparing none but thofe w ho 
 attend the lafhings. The vanquiflied can only favc their lives by 
 jumping into the fea, and fwlmming to the canoes not clofely cn- 
 g'H.r, ,i T'- Ccinoc taken, is carried off by the conquerors in triumph. 
 Sii . late of great part of Otoo's fleet, the prefent Pomarrc, 
 
 {tK>r: atter xJook left the illand. an'd the \oi's hath never fince bsen. re- 
 paired : there are not, at preicnt, five large war canoes at Otaheite.
 
 Apphndix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. a^; 
 
 Happily tlic irtand of Eirni'f) becoming fubjccfl tf) ])is inn i government, 
 and Iddcah and Mfmnc Mannc, fincc the death of Motuaro, having 
 the chief authority there, the king hath Uttle to apprehend from in- 
 vafion, as he was mofl eafilv vulnerable from that quarter. 
 
 The v/ar canoes differ from common ones in conllruftion, having 
 high bows, on which are carved rude images of men ; and their ftcrnd 
 runup tapering, fometimes to twenty-four feet, and ornamented with 
 the like figures: the bottom is fliarp ; the fides rounding in toward.-' 
 the top in the midfliip frame, like the print of a fpadc on a pack of 
 Cards. They are built of fliort pieces about fix feet each, except the 
 keel, which feldom exceeds three pieces, of twenty or thirty feet long, 
 and fometimes is formed of two only. The fliort pieces are laflied to- 
 gether fecurcly wnth fmnet made of cocoa-nut fibres ; the feams arc 
 calked with the fame, and payed with the bread-fruit gum ; but a 
 heavy fea opens the feams, and makes them leaky ; and they have no 
 methods of clearing the water but by bailing with fcoops, fo that five 
 or lix hands are thus conftantly employed at fea ; and in port they are 
 hauled up on dry groimd, to prevent their finking. The bread-fruit 
 tree plank is preferred for durability ; for though not a cloic-grained 
 wood, the falt-water worms will not touch it, a property which few 
 others of their woods poflefs. 
 
 In building the canoes, they ufe fire to burn out the infide of the 
 tree, and fmooth the fides w ith coral and fand ; but thofe who have 
 iron tools prefer the method of cutting them into fliape, and hollow, 
 as far more expeditious. They prepare their pitch for paying the 
 feams, by wrapping the gum of the bread-fruit tree round candle-nuts 
 ftuck on iTccwcrs of cocoa-nut leaf ribs : thcfe being lighted, the pitch 
 drops into a tray of water, and fqueezing out the aqueous particles, they 
 fpread it on the plank edge, and lay the cocoa- nut hufk beaten fine o\er 
 it ; then fmear it with pitch, and fit on the next plank, preiTmg it 
 pow^crfully with ropes and levers, and fecuring it in its place wath 
 lalhings. 
 
 The war canoes, and thofe facrcd to the Eatooa, are built by a ge- 
 neral levy : the chief iffues his orders to the towas, they to the rat'irras, 
 who call upon their tenants, the manahoune, for hogs, cloth, oil, &c. 
 to fupport the carpenters who are fent to the work. They firfl exa- 
 mine the hills, and pitch on the proper timbers : the ratlrra on whofc 
 land it is found, fends men to cut it down, and hew it in the rough, 
 under the carpenters' dircAion, that it may be the eafier removed, as 
 it is fometimes at a confidcrable diflance. When the timbers arc 
 
 3 c
 
 378 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Ai-FiiSDix. 
 
 coUetled, they are laid under the flied where the canoe is to be built : 
 a leaftis then made to engage the favourable affiftance of the Eatooa; 
 and being very acceptable to the workmen, they hold one before the 
 tree is cut do-v^n, another at the commencement of the building, and 
 on making faft every courle. When the firil: ftrake or bottom is com- 
 pleted, there is a great entertainment and offering, and fo on till the 
 whole is finifhed, when the felHvity is greateft, and the canoe for 
 the Eatooa drelTcd out with cloth, breaftplates and red feathers, and a 
 human victim is offered. The offerings for the war canoes are only- 
 hogs, &c. which are brought to the moral of the chief in wliofc dlf- 
 tri^l it is built ; there the priefts ftranglc them as ufual, and clean 
 them, fmcaring them over with their own blood, and placing them on 
 the fwhatta, or altar, with young plantain-trees, and long prayers : the 
 entrails and guts are cleaned and eaten at the moral. Sometimes the 
 hogs are dreffed before they are offered on the altar; there they arc left, 
 to putrefy, or be eaten by birds which frequent thefe places ; the heron 
 cfpccially, and the woodpecker. Thefe birds are refpe(5ted as facred, 
 and never killed, as it is fuppofed the deity defcends in them, when he 
 comes to the moral to infpire the prieft, and give an aniwer to their 
 prayers. 
 
 The canoe offered to the Eatooa, finely dreffed, is drawn up to the 
 moral with all the facrifices and oblations ; there the eye of the dead 
 vlttim is fu'ft offered to the king, with the plantain and prayers, and 
 the body interred in the moral. The hogs are killed and offered as 
 before, and the priefts take the cloth and decorations, which are pre- 
 fentcd to the young king. 
 
 Confidering the greatncfs of the work, and the beauty of the exe- 
 cution, it is aftonifhing how, without the knowledge of iron, without 
 rule or compafs, w ith a ftone adze only, the leg or arm bone of a man 
 iharpened for the purpofe of chlfcl, gouge, and gimlet, with coral only 
 and fund, they can carve fo neatly, and finiffi fo fmoothly ; our moft 
 ingenious workmen could not exceed them. To cut with fuch in- 
 frruments, out of the hardeft and moft folid Avood to iorm planks, not 
 more than two out of a tree, and build >ellels capable of carrjing three 
 hunth'cd pcrfons, muff rcqviire fuch endlcfs labour and perlcA erance, as 
 makes it wonderful how they fhould ever be finifhed. 
 
 The war canoes differ in conftruftion, as well as fize, from the 
 fifhing and travelling canoes ; thefe latter being low for paddling, flat- 
 fidcd, and confifHng commonly of but one broad plank fixed on the 
 tree hollowed x>ut, with a raifed flern. On the bow a plank projefts 
 about fix or eight feet, on which a platform is laid, and a travelling
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 370 
 
 houfc ercdcd, wliich can be carried on fhorc and fervc for a temporary 
 abode : fomctlmes only an awning is Ipread, and here the paflengcrs, 
 or the perfons of moft dignity, arc featcd. The fterns are broad, and, 
 according to the nobiUty of the owner, raifcd and ornamented, fonic 
 to fourteen feet high, of car\ed work, reprefenting men fupjxijrting 
 each other on their hands, tier upon tier, and furmountcd by a piece 
 of carved work, of three or four feet round, and ho]lMvv, foniething 
 like a Gothic tower. Thefe, according to their bulk, arc ])addled by 
 from four to twenty men, aud can be rowed fmgle, or made double, 
 as occafion requires. 
 
 They ha\e ilill fmaller double canoes, and finglc ones with an out- 
 rigger for common ufc. Thofc defigned for failnig have fomc one 
 mall and fome two, whether the canoe be fmgle or double : this mall 
 is fixed with flirouds and llays ; the fails are made of matting long and 
 narrow, and have a kind of fprlt laced up and down tlie after leech, 
 and reaching one third higher than the mafl-head, forming a bow from 
 the height of the mall upwards, and keeping the weather leecli of the 
 fail tight from the maft-head to the fprit-end, to which a long pen- 
 nant made of feathers is uiually fallened ; and the knver part is e:c- 
 tendcd on a bamboo boom, to which the fprit is fccurely lalhcd ; and 
 here alfo the Ihcet is made fall. In the fmgle canoe the mail is placed 
 nearly before the mid (hips ; in the double the foremaft is raifed in the 
 one, and the mainmall in the other, at nearly one third each. The 
 war canoes have their malls and fails in the fame manner ; on the 
 mafh there is a kind of bafl^et-work like a funnel. The fmgle canoes* 
 when rigged for lailing, are railed with a wafliboard often or twelve 
 inches above the gunwale ; and on the top ot this, opj)ofite to the out- 
 rigger, is a ftage about two feet wide, and running about ten or twelve 
 feet along the fide of the canoe : this is made of planks well lallied to 
 the fpars which fupport them, and to this they bring the Ihrouds. 
 The outrigger is generally two thirds of the length of the canoe ; at 
 the extremity is fixed a float as long as the canoe, aud kept in the 
 fame dlre(5lion as the keel bv a fmaller outrigger placed near the ftcrn: 
 but as thefe are not always exafily parallel and nicely adjulled, they im- 
 pede the velocity of the canoe, which feldom falls above five or fix knots 
 aji hour. As they have no method of reducing their fail at the head, 
 being only able to call it off at the foot, and roll up a part, they arc 
 driven to the grcatell inconvenience when overtaken by bad weather, 
 and frequently difmallcd, o\ erfet, or blow n off the coaft, and heard of 
 no more. When a fcjuall comes on, they luff the head of tlie canoe 
 
 3 c 2
 
 380 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 to it ; and if fiie is likely to fall off, they jump overboard, and hold 
 her head to windward till the guft of wind is pailcd ; then get in, and 
 purfue their courfc. When ovcrlct, their fufl care is to lafh every 
 thing faft, and tow the canoe round with tlic maft-head to windward ; 
 ^nd having a line faftencxi to the fprit-end, they get all hands on the 
 float of the outrigger, and hauling the head of the fail out of the water, 
 fwing off with their whole weight, and the wind getting under the 
 fail rights the canoe : two or three continue in the water, and hold her 
 jiead to the wind, and when clear they proceed on their voyage. This 
 accident frequently happens on returning from hfliing ; and fo little 
 danger do they apprehend from being thus o\erfet four or five miles 
 from land, that they never think of affilling each other ; nor do thofe 
 who are in the water call for any help, though fometimes they lofc fo 
 much ground, as to be obliged to run down to Eimeo or Ulietea. 
 
 Their canoes convey them to the iflands in the neighbourhood of 
 Otaheite. Tethuroah, one of the neareft, is the property of Otoo and 
 his family, diftant about eight leagues north from Point Venus ; it 
 confifts of ten fmall illcts, furrounded by a reef ten leagues in circum- 
 ference. Thefe can only be approached in calm weather becaufc of 
 the furf, and then only by fmall canoes, which are hauled over the 
 reef: thither the king fends his moft valuable property in time of war 
 or danger. As thefe iflets are not approachable by war canoes, they 
 afford an impregnable fortrefs. To prevent the inhabitants from cafting 
 off his authority, Otoo fuffers no bread-fruit or vegetable food of any 
 kind to grow there, but cocoa-nuts and taro-roots for the convenience 
 of the chiefs who go there on a vifit. Thefe iflands abound with fifh, 
 which they bring to Otoo, and load back with provifions. The fifli 
 he ufes himfelf, and diftributes to his friends. About forty fail of ca- 
 noes are thu^ employed, befides thofe ufed at home in filhery. The 
 Matavai canoes alfo, when not engaged in the dolphin filhery, make 
 frequent voyages to Tethuroah, carrying provifions, and bringing back 
 fifli and cocoa-nut oil in exchange ; and a fine fifh fauce, called tycyro, 
 made of cocoa-nut kernel at a proper age grated, and mixed with 
 picked flirimps. This is put into ballcets to digefl for a day or two, 
 when it refemblcs curd, acquires an agreeable tartnefs, and is fit for 
 ufe; mixed with fait water it is an admired fauce, not only for fiflx, 
 but lor pork and fowls. The cocoa-nut mufl not be lully grown, lor 
 it would turn oily and become rancid. The fame fauce is made in 
 great quantities at Otaheite, and a bafket of it always accompanies a 
 prefent of fifli, or a baked hog. 
 
 Maitea is fubjedt to a cliief of Tiaraboo, and about twcnty-fcven
 
 AppE-vnix.] TO THE SOUTH-SE-A ISLANDS. 36 1 
 
 leagues diftant eailward. The communication is by a larirc war canoe, 
 which makes a voyage or two annually, taking advantage of the north- 
 v/ellcrly wind tr) go thither, and of" the trade-wind to return. From 
 thi.s ifland tlicy chiefly obtain their pearls and pearl fliclls, with dillics 
 and ftools of tammanoo, and otlicr articles. Tapiolie, famous for pearl, 
 lies farther on in the fame direction. In return for what they receive, 
 they carry nails and fuch iron-work as they can fpare ; and this paiTci 
 in exchange to more diftant iflands. 
 
 SECTION Xllf. 
 D'l/cafes. 
 
 TILL the Europeans vifitcd them, they had few difordcrs amoog 
 them , their temperate and regular mode of life, the great ufc of ve- 
 getables, little animal food, and abfence of all noxious dlftilled fpirits 
 and wines, prefervcd them in licalth. The cafe at prefent is wofully 
 altered. 
 
 Their moft common complaints are coiighs, colds, and intermittent 
 fevers, partly brought on by the changes of weather, and partly by the 
 mode of bathing, to which they habituate themfelves, often reeking 
 with fweat. They fometimes undergo a temporary infanity during 
 the wet feafon, when the fun is vertical, probably from being expofed 
 with their bare heads to his perpendicular beams : this diforder attacks 
 them ufually when the bread-fruit ripens, and is attended with boils 
 on the llcin, which carry off the diforder, and the perfon once reco- 
 vered is afFedled no more ; though with fome it continues a longer 
 feafon than with others. The ague fometimes is fatal, as they have 
 no medicine which is effedtial for its cure. They are fubjeft to vaffc 
 ruptures, occafioned by too great exertions in wrellling, jumping, and 
 lifting. • The glands behind their cars often fwell and fuppurate, leaving 
 largo fears like the king's evil ; to thele they make no application but 
 wafhing ; and when we would have perfuaded them to lay on a poul- 
 tice, they objed:ed, as they muft not pafs the facred ground with any- 
 thing on their heads, or above their fhoulders ; and there is no con- 
 fining them to the houfe as long as they are able to (land on their legs. 
 As it is their fixed opinion, that no difeafe afFeds them but as a punilli- 
 ment inflided by their E^tooa for fomc offence, and never brought on
 
 382 FIPxST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 themfclves by intemperance or imprudence, they trull more to the 
 prayers of their pricfts than to any mcdscnie. Nature, however, and 
 their good conftitutions, perform wonderiiil cures. One man had re- 
 ceived a mullcct-ball, which paffed through his breaft and flioulder- 
 blade ; another had his arm broken by a ball ; a third received it as 
 he was {looping; it paffed through his thigh, entered his breaft, and 
 tame out behind his collar-bone: feveral others were dreadfully fmalhed 
 %vith ftones : one had his upper jaw broken inward, 'with the Ibfs of 
 iix or feven teeth, and a part of the bone ; and yet ail recovered fur- 
 prifingly foon, without any application. All bandages they abominate, 
 and cannot bear the fmcll of the drcffings of a wound ;,ti}ing always 
 to the water when any thing of this kind atfetts them, and grating 
 landal wood on the part to take off the offenfive fetor. If they happen 
 to have a leg broken, it ufually kills them, not fo much from the frac- 
 ture itielf, as from their efforts to crawl to the water, from which no- 
 thing reffrains them : this often brings on inflammation and mortifi- 
 cation, where there could be elfe no danser. Some bear the fears of 
 the jagged ffringray fpear paffmg through their bodies, and are reco- 
 vered. A broken arm is fometlmes completely reftored by bamboo 
 fplints, as it admits of their going about with it in a fling. 
 
 Our furgeon, in his vifits to the different parts of the ifland, adds 
 to this catalogue the elephantiafis, which he obferved of a moff prodi- 
 gious kind ; one man's leg being fvs'elled as big as a youth's body ; yet 
 he continued going about. There is hardly one of the chiefs but is 
 affc6hcd with cuticular difcafes, and many like lepers from head to 
 foot, occaiioned by drinking the yava ; yet they regard this as an ho- 
 nourable difflnclinn, calling it the vava ikin rather than a difcafe. 
 Many have, in the rainy feafon, confiderable inflammation in their 
 eyes, and their children are often fubjctt to a tettcrous eruption, which 
 continues for a long while. A few have been found affected with the 
 itch, whether a communicated or an endemial dileafc is not certain. 
 But of all plagues that moff fatal to foclctv, the A-cncrcal, has been 
 communicated to them, probably by Europeans, and it has fpread 
 grievoufly, one in four being fuppoicd affected with it : many moff mi- 
 ferable objcfts, with foul and horrid vilcers, carious bones, lofs of limbs, 
 and in the laff ffage of ccjnfumption, prefcntcd themfclves. Of thefe 
 was the brother of the high-prieff Manne Manne, worn to a iTcelcton 
 by the difcharge of a venereal ulcer in his neck, which affedled the 
 organs of rc{]")iration, and left little hopes of relief. Many are fepa- 
 rated from their tamilles in a flicd or Qut-houfe, nor fuflcrcd to touch
 
 Appf.n-dix.] to the SOUTII-SEA ISLANDS. 3S3 
 
 provUlon of any kind hut ^vllat is brought tlicm ; their dcarcll friends 
 and relatives ihun them ; they are not permitted to bathe near any 
 perfon in the river ; and though tliey are not left to ftarve, they arc 
 abandoned to rot aUve. Many rcfufed all medicines, and wtnild fubmit 
 to no applications ; others took them with great avidity. The benefit 
 received in many cafes by the mercurial ointment c.iufed great wonder 
 in the natives; and in the hands of a ikilful man cannot fail ot rcf- 
 cuing many from death and mifery. This fatal and difgulling difeafe, 
 being moil prevalent, efpecially claims our compaffion, though the 
 natives are fb carelefs, and averfc to all confinement, that it is the 
 hardeit talk in the world to engage them to follow proper directions. 
 We are ufiag our utmoft efforts to ha\-e fomc of our brethren under 
 .the beffc tuition, for the purpofc of attaining medical ikill, efpecially to 
 ■he acquainted with the properell methods of treating this foul plague, 
 and have hope of five or fix who will have fomc medical information, 
 and be particularly con\'crfant ^vlth this fubjcft ; and ^vho may be ca- 
 pable of affording cffcdual relief to fuch as will fubmit to tlie neceffary 
 regimen. 
 
 They attribute others of their maladies to an European origin, and 
 fuppofe every veffel which hath vifited them has left them fome new 
 difeafes ; among thefe they reckon the dyfentery from Vancouver. 
 
 It was difficult to perfuade them to take medicine, except in fyrups, 
 of which they are fond ; thouiih Ibme fubmltted to fwallow the bark 
 in cocoa-nut liquor, and got rid of their intermittcnts. 
 
 SECTION XIV. 
 
 On the comparative State of t lie IJlaiids. 
 
 IT may not be unacceptable to pafs in review a few remarks on the 
 comparative ftate of the different iflands where we have begun our 
 miffionary attempts, as from the manners and characilcr of the people, 
 and the nature of their governments, fome conjeiflure may be formed 
 refpeding the hope of fuccceding in our endeavours to civilize and im- 
 part to them the bleffmgs of Chriftianity. 
 
 Hereditary fucceffion appears the eftablifhed curtom at Ot;>heitc, 
 and Otoo fovercign ; his chieftains, though lupremc in their fcvcral 
 dillrkls, owing him paramount obedience, .and apparently at prefent
 
 38.i FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix, 
 
 unable to control hi? authority, and in a ftate of general fubjec?cion. 
 At Tongataboo an oligarchy feems to prevail, at the head of which is 
 a monarch ot the Futtafaihe race, to whom all pay homage ; yet an- 
 other perl()n, under the title of Dugonagaboola, has the chief power 
 and authority, commanding the army by fea and land : whether this 
 , office be hereditary or eleitive is not afcertained. Toogahov^■c, though 
 not the cldeft fon, on the death of Tibo Moomooe, ailumcd the go- 
 vernment; his acknowledged warlike character probably removed every 
 competitor, Befides thefe, other chiefs feem polfcired of great power. 
 In Ohitahoo, the only ifland of the Marquefas which we vifited, the 
 xrhief feems pofTcired of lefs power than was exercifcd in both the 
 others. Tongataboo refembles nnoft the government of Japan, where 
 the facred majefty is a fort of flate prifoner to the captain-general ; biit 
 at the BViendly Iflands Futtafaihe has great authority, though Dugo- 
 nagaboola fccms as fuperior in command as he acknowledges himfelf 
 inferior in dignity. Thus Tacitus defcribes Germany as poffcfTed of a 
 monarch hereditary, j^ro/i/^r dignitatem, and a great general, dux, cledled, 
 propter v'irtutem, on account of his courage and military fkill. In thefc 
 iflands ilrong traits of the ancient feudal fyftem appear. 
 
 In their perfons, the men of the fuperior rank all feem a larger race 
 than ourfelves, or the common people. At Otaheite they were fofter 
 featured, more fvill and flefliy ; at Tongataboo more mufcular, and 
 alFeOling a more ftately gait and fuperiority ; at Ohitahoo, though 
 complaining of hunger, they were fufficicntly plump, and much more 
 tattooed all over, and diftinguifhcd by drefs and ornaments. 
 
 The women at the Marquefas, for beauty of feature, Ammetry of 
 form, and lightnefs of colour, far exceeded the other iflands. At Ota- 
 heite and Tongataboo very few were feen who had pretenfions to 
 beauty ; they were generally large, their features mafculine, their co- 
 lour deeper, and many very difgufting : yet at Ohitahoo the females 
 appeared in the moft abjcd fubjechtion, whilft at Otaheite Ibme en- 
 joyed diftlngulfhed dignity, without particular prohibitions as to food ; 
 and thofc who were under reftriftions feemcd not fo enflaved, and at 
 liberty tu change their huflbands if they pleafed. At Tongataboo fomc 
 were held in highcft reverence, and Futtafaihe himfelf paid one elderly 
 woman the fame cxpreiTion of homage which he received from every 
 other chieftain. 
 
 In improvements and civil government the people of the Friendly 
 Iflands appear fuperior : their canoes are larger, more numerous, and 
 better formed ; their clubs and carvings more curious, their land better
 
 Appendix.] TO TilE SUU'llI-SEA IbLANDS. 395 
 
 cultlv:itcd, tlicir roads neatly maintained, and their counb-y generally 
 •nclofcd \\ith rccd fences; property alio appears more protected, an(i 
 no arbitrary exactions noticed: while the delpotic rule at Otahcltc, in 
 many inllanccs, and the infolcnt demands of the arrcoy fociety, tend 
 to dellrf)y all induilry. Refpccl for the chiefs is every where great, 
 but appeared leail; at Ohitahoo. 
 
 In maimers, the Society iflanders fe<;m the mofl diifolutc, and the 
 arrcoy fociety the fmk of lewdncis and cruelty. In the Friendly Iflands 
 marriage is general, and, except the chiefs, they feem to have only 
 one wife. It is iliid at Tongataboo, that adultery is puniihed with 
 death. There, and at the Mar(]uefas, no infant murders arc allowed; 
 but, contrariwife, they arc fond of their chiUlren, and take pleafurc 
 in a numerous family. Though at the dcccafe of Tibo Moomooc, 
 and during his illnels, fome cruel and inhuman practices arc men- 
 tioned, yet nothing comparable with the horrible human facrifices 
 at Otaheite. In ancjther feature alfo they greatly dltter, as old age is 
 as much refpedlcd at Ohitahoo and Tongataboo as it is neglected at 
 Otaheite. 
 
 In their propcnfity to theft they too much rcfembled each other, 
 though the Friendly iflanders fcemed the moll daring. With refped; 
 to the difeafe which makes the moll fatal ravage, the Societv iflanders 
 are much the moft generally infed;ed ; fewer at Tongataboo ; and at 
 the Marquefas it is happily yet unknown. 
 
 As to native fertility, all the iflands, w^ith prudence and culture, 
 would furnifli abundant fupplies ; but as the natives labour little, and 
 trull to the fpontaneous productions of the earth chiefly, ail fuffcr at 
 certain times ot the year, when the bread-fruit is out of feafon, a tem- 
 porary fcarcity. At Ohitahoo it amounted to hunger ; the mahic was 
 difgulling; and the very animals were pinched for want of food, though 
 no where did the bread-fruit trees appear more flourifliing. At Tour 
 e;ataboo, the chiefs, to fecure plenty, changed their abodes to other 
 iflands. At Otaheite the greatell profufion of native productions ap- 
 peared, notwithllanding the horrible walle committed at tlieir fealt- 
 ings, and by the arrcoy fociety ; and an ant is fcldom known. Tlie 
 border of low land teems with plenty of bread-fruit, evee, and cocoa- 
 nut. At Ohitahoo there is no low land ; at Tongataboo the country 
 is flat and enclofed, and, though little cultivated, very produ<^livc. 
 liut after viflting all the other iflands, Captain Wilfon obferves, that 
 he was forcibly llruck, at his fecond vifit to Otaheite, with the fuperior 
 
 3 D
 
 3S6 
 
 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE 
 
 [Appendix. 
 
 politenefs of their manners, their fingular cordiality of addrefs, and 
 their vifiblc improvement during that fmall fpace in the fcalc of civi- 
 Kzation in drefs as well as bchavioiir : and taking into the account its 
 amenity, the falubrity of the climate, the plenty of fine water, fpon- 
 taneous produiflions of the earth, the rich and mofl romantically pic- 
 turcl'quc appearances of the country, he felt the juftice of the title 
 given to Otahcite by one of the navigators, as the Queen of Wands.
 
 Apprndix.] to the SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 
 
 S67 
 
 ARTICLES OF FAITH, 
 
 OR, 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF RELIGION, 
 
 DBAWIJ UP BY THE COMMITTEE OF EIGHT PEK60NS CHOSEN BT THE BODY 
 OP MISSIONAKIES, ON BOARD THE DUFF, AT SEA. 
 
 T 
 
 Art. I. Of the Holy Scriptures, 
 
 HE Holy Scripture is contained in the Old and New Teftaments, 
 as under : 
 
 Geneils 
 
 1 Kings 
 
 Eccleiia-ftcs 
 
 Obadiah 
 
 Exodus 
 
 2 Kings 
 
 Song of Solomon 
 
 Jonah 
 
 Leviticus 
 
 1 Chronicles 
 
 Ifaiah 
 
 Micah 
 
 Numbers 
 
 2 Chronicles 
 
 Jeremiah 
 
 Nahum 
 
 Deuteronomy 
 
 Ezra 
 
 Lamentations 
 
 Habakkuk 
 
 Jofliua 
 
 Nehemiah 
 
 Ezekicl 
 
 Zephaniah 
 
 Judges 
 
 Efther 
 
 Daniel 
 
 Haggai^ 
 
 Ruth 
 
 Job 
 
 Hofea 
 
 Zcchariah 
 
 1 Samuel 
 
 Pfalms 
 
 Joel 
 
 Malachi 
 
 2 Samuel 
 
 Proverbs 
 
 Amos 
 
 
 Matthew 
 
 2 Corinthians 
 
 1 Timotliy 
 
 2 Peter 
 
 Mark 
 
 Galatians 
 
 2 Timothy 
 
 1 John 
 
 Luke 
 
 Ephcfians 
 
 Titus 
 
 2 John 
 
 John 
 
 Pliilippians 
 
 Philemon 
 
 3 John 
 
 The AAs 
 
 Coluffians 
 
 Hebrews 
 
 Judo 
 
 Ep. to Romans 
 
 1 ThefTalonians 
 
 Ep. of James 
 
 Revelations 
 
 1 Corinthians 
 
 2 Theflalonians 
 
 1 Peter 
 
 
 Such is the revelation of God's purpofe, mind, and will, and given by 
 the infpiration of the Holv Gholl ; it containeth all things neceflary 
 to be believed concerning God, creation, pro\idencc, the tall of man, 
 his recovery, and the final end of all things : therefore the truths 
 ■contained therein arc to be received and believed ; and nothing fliould 
 
 .3 D 2
 
 »8«' FmsT MISSrONARY VOYAGE [AppEXDixr, 
 
 be believed by any, or enforced upon any, as nccellliry to falvation, 
 faith, or pra<fiice, but that which it exprefleth, or may be proved 
 
 "thereby. 
 
 Art. ir. Of God: 
 
 Tliere i^ but one only living and true God, who is infinite in being- 
 and pcrfcdion, a moll pure Spirit, iuvifibic, without body or parts, 
 immutable, immcnfe, eternal, incoraprehenfible, infinitely juil, al- 
 mighty, and moft wife : the creator, maker, and former of all crea- 
 tures, the prclerver and governor of all things, vifible and invifible ; 
 and in the unity of the Godhead there are three perfons, of one fub- 
 ftance pawer and eternity — God the Father, God. the Son, and God 
 the Holy Ghofl. 
 
 Art.. IIL Of the Fall of Man. 
 
 God having created man in his own image, in knowledge, righte- 
 oufnefs,. and true holinefs, with dominion over the creatures, entered 
 into a covenant of life with him, not only for himfelf but for all his 
 pofterity, upoii condition of perfedl obedience, forbidding him to eat 
 of the tree of knowledge of good and evil upon the pain of death ; 
 which covenant he brake, being fcduccd by Satan to eat of the fruit 
 of that. tree ; and, having thereby loft the image of God and all com- 
 munioii '. with him, he incurxed hi* wrath and curfe both in this life 
 and in that which is to come; in which ruin his whole race became 
 neceiTarily involved, having this his firft tranfgreffion moft juftly im- 
 puted to them, and deriving from him a nature wholly corrupted and 
 depraved. 
 
 Art. IV. Of Free mil. 
 
 Man, in hlsftate of innocency,, had freedom, and power to will and 
 feo do that which is good and well-pleafing to God ; but yet mutable,.^ 
 lo that he might fall from it.. But by his fall into a ilatc of fin, he 
 hath wholly lofh all ability of will to any Ipiritual good accompanying 
 falvation ; lb that as a natural man, being altogether averfe from good, 
 and dead in fin, he is not able, by his own ftrength, to convert himfelf, 
 or to prepare himfelf thereunto. 
 
 . When (jod converts a finner, and tranflatcs him into a flate af 
 grace, he frceth him from his natviral bondage under fin ; and by his 
 grace alone enables him freely to will and to do tliat which is fpi- 
 jdtually good..
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 3«a 
 
 Art. V. Of Chrtjl the Mediator. 
 
 The Son, which is the Word of the Father, co-equal and co-ctcrnal 
 with the Father, the very and eternal God, of one fubftancc with the 
 FatUcr, took man's nature in the womb of the blcflcd Virgin, of her 
 fubrtancc, i'o that t\vo whole and perfcifl natures, that is to fay, the 
 Godhead and manhood, were joined together, never to be divided, 
 whereof is one Chrift, very God and very man ; who, by his perfecb 
 obedience and facrifice of himfelf, which he, through the Eternal 
 Spirit, once ohered up unto (j(;d, hath fully fatisfied the juftice of 
 the Father; and not only made reconciliation, but like wife purchafed. 
 an evcrlailing inheritance in the kingdom of heaven for all thofc 
 whom the Father hath given to, or chofen in him. 
 
 AUT. Vr. Of the Holy Ghrf}. 
 
 The Holy Ghoft, proceeding from the Father and the Son, is of one 
 fubflance, majcfty, and glory, with the Father and the Sou, very and 
 eternal God ; whofc office, in the economy of fah ation, is to con\ ince, 
 regenerate, and convert thofe whom the Father ga\ e to Chrift in his 
 eternal purpofe, and make them partakers of all the benefits of the 
 covenant of grace, both in time and eternity. 
 
 Art. V'II. Oftkc Hfurr^mon ofChrijl. ' 
 
 Chrift did truly rife again from death, and took again his body, with 
 flefli, bones, and all things appertaining to . the perfcftion of man's 
 nature, wherewith he afcended into heaven, and there fittcth making 
 interccffion for ajl his people until he return to judge all men at the 
 laft day. 
 
 Art. VIII. Of Fredcfihiation and.Ele5iion.. 
 
 Predeftination to life is the cverlafting purpofe ■ of God, wherebj/ 
 (before the foundations of the world were laid), he hath decreed, by 
 his counfel fecrct to us, to deliver from curfe and damnation thofc 
 whom he hath chofen in Chrift (not for any thing forefccn in them^ 
 but according to his etrmai purpofe and grace) out of mankind, 
 and to bring them by Chrift to c^ erlalling faivation, as vclTels made 
 to honour. 
 
 Wherefore tl:ey which be endued- with fo excellent a benefit of 
 God, be called according to God's purpofe by his Spirit working in 
 due feafon , rhey tlirough grace obey the calling ; they be juflified 
 freely; they be made fons of God by adoption; they be made liki.
 
 300 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 the image ot* his only begotten Son Jefus Chriil ; they walk rcligloufly 
 in good works ; and at length, by God's mercy, they attain to ever- 
 lafting felicity. 
 
 Art. IX. Of the JiiJI'tjication of Man. 
 
 Juftification is an aCl of God's free grace, wherein he pardoncth all 
 our fins, and acccpteth us as righteous in his fight, only for the righte- 
 cufneli of Chriil imputed to us, and received by faith alone. 
 
 Art. X. Of Good Works. 
 
 Good works are only fuch as God hath commanded in his holy 
 word, and not fuch as, without the warrant thereof, are deviled by 
 men out of blind zeal, or upon any pretence of good intentions : 
 although good works, which are the fruits of faith, and follow after 
 juftification, cannot put away our fins, and endure the feverity of God's 
 judgments, yet are they pleafing and acceptaible to God in Chrift, and 
 do fpring out neceiTarily of a true and lively faith ; infomuch that by 
 them a lively faith may be as evidently known as a tree is difcerned by 
 its fruit 
 
 Art. XI. Of the Law of God. 
 
 The moral law doth for ever bind all, as well juftified perfons as 
 others, to the obedience thereof; and that not only in regard of the 
 matter contained in it, but alfo in rcfpedt of the authority of God the 
 creator who gave it : neither doth Chrift in the gofpel any way diffolve, 
 but much ftrengthen this obligation. 
 
 Although true believers be not under the law^ as a covenant of works, 
 to be thereby juftified or condemned ; yet it is of great ufe to them as 
 well as to others; in that, as a rule of life, informing them of the will 
 of God and their duty, it diredts and binds them to walk accordinglv ; 
 difcovering alfb the fmful pollutions of their nature, hearts, and lives ; 
 fo as examining thcmfelves thereby they may come to further convic- 
 tion of, humiliation for, and hatred againft fin ; together with a clearer 
 fight of the need they have of Chrift, and the perfedion of his obe- 
 dience : it is likewife of ufe to the regenerate to reftrain their corrup- 
 tion, in that it forbids fin ; and the threatcnings of it ferve to fhew 
 what even their fins defervc, and wliat afflidions in this life they may 
 cxped; for tliem, although freed from the curfc thereof threatened in 
 the law.
 
 AprnNDix.] TO THE SOUTH- SEA ISLANDS. 391 
 
 Art. XII. Of the State of Men after Death, and of the RefurreUhn 
 
 of the Dead. 
 
 The bodies of men after death return to duft, and fee corruption ; 
 but their fouls (which neither die nor fleep) having an immortal fub- 
 flancc, immediately return to God who gave them. The fouls of the 
 righteous, being made perfe<^t in holinefs, are received into the higheft 
 heavens, where they behold the face of God in light and glory, waiting 
 only for the full redemption of their bodies: and the fouls of the wicked 
 are caft into hell, where they remain in torments and utter darknefs, 
 referved to the judgment of the great day. Eefide thefe two places, 
 for fouls feparate from their bodies, the Scripture acknowledgeth none. 
 At the laft day, fuch as are found alive fhall not die, but be changed ; 
 and all the dead fliall be raifed up with the felf-f^me bodies, and none 
 other, although with different qualities, which fhall be again united to 
 their fouls for ever. 
 
 The bodies of the unjuft fhall, by the power of Chrifl:, be raifed to 
 difhonour ; the bodies of the juft, by his fpirit, unto honour, and be 
 made conformable to his own glorious body. 
 
 Art. XIII. Of the laftJudgment . 
 God hath appointed a- day wherein he will judge the world in 
 righteoufnefs, by Jefus Chrill, to whom all power and judgment is 
 given of the Father; in which day not only the apoftate angels fhall 
 be judged, but likewife all perfons that have lived upon earth fhall 
 appear before the tribunal of Chrift, to give an account of their 
 thoughts, words, and deeds ; and to receive according to w^hat they 
 have done in the body, whether good or evil. ■ The end of God's ap- 
 pointing this day is for the manifeftation of the glory of his mercy in 
 the eternal falvation of the elecl:, and of his jullice in the damnation, 
 of the wicked and difobedient ; for then fhall the righteous go into'- 
 cverlafting life, and receive that fulnefs of joy and retVefhlng which 
 fliall come from the prefence of the Lord ; but the wicked w ho know- 
 not God, and obey not the gofpel of Jefus Chrill, fhall be caft into 
 everlafling burnings, and be punifhed with eternal deffrudlion from the 
 prefence oi the Lord, and from the glory of his power. 
 
 Art. XIV. Of the Church. 
 The cathohc or imiverfal church, which is invifible, confifts of the 
 whole number of the eleft, that have been, are, or fliall be gathered 
 into one, under Chrill the head thereof;, and is the fpoufe, the body^.
 
 SC}2 TIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appendix. 
 
 the fulnefs of Him that filleth all in all. The vifiblc church, -which is 
 -alfo catholic or uui^erfal under the goipel (not confined to one nation 
 ns before, under the law), confifts of all thofe throut:^hout the world 
 that profefs the true religion, together with their children ; and is the 
 kingdom ot the Lord Jcfus Chrirt, the houlc and family out of w'hich 
 there is no ordinary poffibility of falvation. 
 
 Unto this catholic vifiblc church Chriil hath given the miniftry, 
 oracles, and ordinances of God, for the gathering and perfeAing of 
 the faints, in this life, to the end of the world ; and doth by his ow^n 
 prefence and ipirit, according to his promife, make them effectual 
 thereunto. 
 
 There is no other head of the church but the Lord Jefus Chrift ; 
 neither hath any teniporal prince, fecular power, or civil magiftrate, 
 any right to exercife any authority over iier ; neither necdeth llie any 
 cftablifliments from them, being founded upon Him who is the rock of 
 aa;es ; fo that the gates of hell lliall not prevail againll her ; and the 
 Higheft himfelf fliall eftablilli her. 
 
 The vifible church hath, in fubjetftion to Chrift her head, powxr 
 to chufe bifhops, or paftors, and deacons, to aft in their feveral 
 offices. The church likcwife hath power to depofe both minifters and 
 deacons, if it be found neceffary for truth and confcience fake ; to 
 admit members into church fellowfhip ; and, in cafe of mifconduft, to 
 exclude them from her communion ; but if the caufe or reafon of de- 
 pofuig the one, or excluding the other is removed, then fhe hath power, 
 and ought to rc-admit them into the fame church fellowfliip. 
 
 Art. XV. Of /he Officers of the Church. 
 
 Chriil, in the riches of his love and care towards his cliurch, hath 
 appointed in it to be of perpetual ftanding ufc, as that will be needful 
 iso the church throughout all generations to the end of the world ; 
 ift. Paftors or bifhops, that fliould be fettled in ditFercnt churches, to 
 take a peculiar care of them, to prefide, watch, and rule over them 
 in the Lord ; and to adminifter ordinances of worfhip and difcipline, 
 as well as to preach the word to them ; who are to be folemnly fet 
 apart to their important office by fafting, prayer, and laying on of 
 hands, by one or more pcrfons wIkj have been regularly called and 
 ordained unto the miniftcrial office. . 2d. Deacons ; unto whofe office 
 belongs the aftual exercife and application of the bounty and btne\o- 
 Icnce of the church imto the poor that are planted therein ; and to 
 provide for the table of the Lord : and who arc to be ordained to their 
 trull by prayer and impofition of hands.
 
 ArPENDix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 393 
 
 Art. XVI. Of the Ordinance of Bapt'tfvi . 
 Baptlfm is an ordinance of the Lord Jcfus Chrill's inllitution in his 
 vifiblc church, to be continued till the end of time, and is a vifiblc ligii 
 of inward and fpiritual grace, is an initiating ordinance to the fellow- 
 fliip and communion of the cluxrch, and is to be adminiilered to be- 
 lieving adults and their children, and them only: the mode of admini- 
 ftratlon to be that of pouring or fprinkling, and is to be done by a mi- 
 niller of the word of God, lawfully called and ordained thereunto. 
 
 Art. XVII. Of the Ordinance of the Lord^s Supper. 
 
 The Lord's Supper is an ordinance of the New Tellament, wherein, 
 by giving and receiving bread and wine, according to the appointment 
 of Jefus Chrift, liis death is fliewed forth ; and they that worthily 
 communicate feed upon his body and blood, to their fpiritual nourif]]- 
 ment and growth in grace ; have their union and communion with 
 him confirmed ; tellify and renew their thankfulnefs and engagements 
 to God, and their mutual love and fellowfliip with each other, as 
 members of the fame myflical body ; and is to be adminiftcred by 
 one who labours in word and dod:rine, properly called and ordained 
 thereunto. 
 
 Art. XVIII, Of the SanBificatmi of the Lord's Day. 
 
 The Lord's day ought to be fo remembered beforehand, as that all 
 worldly bufinefs of our ordinary calling may be ^o ordered, and fo timely 
 and feafonably laid afide, as they may not be impediments to the due 
 faultily ing ol the day when it comes. The whole day is to be celebrated 
 as holy to the Lord, both in public and pri\Iite, as being the Chrillian 
 iabbath. To A\liich end it is requifite, that there be a holy ccifation 
 or refling all that day from all unncceifary labours, and an abllaining 
 from all worldly word:- and thoughts: that all the people meet fo timely 
 for public worihip, that the w hole congregation may be prcfent at the 
 beginning, and with one heart folemnly join together in all parts of 
 the public woriliip, and not depart till after the blcffing. 
 
 Art. XIX. Of the Ordinances in a particular Congregation. 
 
 The ordinances in a fmgle congregation are, prajer, thankfgiving, 
 and finging of pfalms or hymns, the word read (although there follow 
 no immediate explication of what is read), the ^vord expounded and 
 applied, catechifuig, the fucranicnts adminiilered, and difmiiTmg the 
 people with a blelling. 
 
 ;5 E
 
 39-1 FIRST MISSIONARY VOYAGE [Appkndix. 
 
 Art. XX. Of Marriage. 
 
 Marriage is of divine appointmcrit, inftituted by God at the time of 
 mail's ianoccncy, for the procreation of children to be brought up in 
 the nurture and admonition of the Lord, and to the praife of his holy 
 name, for a remedy agalnll iin, and to avoid fornication, that iuch 
 perfons as have not the gift of continency might marry, and keep 
 thcmfelves undefiled. This vs-as praclifcd in the Jcvs ifli church, coun- 
 tenanced by Ghrift, and recommended by the apoftle as honourable 
 amona: all. Therefore marriage is to be between one man and one 
 woman only ;- and they fuch as are not within the degrees ot confan- 
 guinity or affinity prohibited by the word of God ; and the perfons are 
 to be of years and difcretion, fit to make their own choice, or, upon 
 good grounds, to give their mutual confcnt. Then the peribns about 
 to enter the Hate of marriage are to fignify their intentions to the mi- 
 nitler refiding nearefl to their refpective abodes three weeks before 
 their intended conli.unmation of marriage, that he may publicly de- 
 clare their intentions three fucceffive fabbaths in the congregation, to 
 the end that if there be any lawful objedions againll the perfons en- 
 tering into that holy flate, it may be fet afide ; but if no objedlion 
 appears, then the day being appointed (which we advife not to be the 
 fabbath), and a competent number of witnefles aflembled, the minifter, 
 after a folemn prayer to God and a fuitable exhortation, is to proceed 
 as follows : viz. firft dire6ling the man to take the woman by the 
 right hand, and- fay thefe words, " 1, M. do take thee, N.' to be my 
 " married wife, and do in the prefence of God and before this congre- 
 " gation promifc and covenant to be a loving and faithful hufband 
 '■'^ unto thee, until God fliail feparate us by death." Then the woman 
 fhall take the man by the right hand, and' fay thefe words : " I, N. 
 " do take thee, M. to be my married hufband, and I do in the prefence 
 " of God and before this congregation promife and covenant to be a 
 " loving, faithful, and obedient wife unto thee, until God fhall fepa- 
 *' rate us by death." Then without any further ceremony the miniller 
 fhall in the face of the congregation pronounce them to be hufl)and. 
 and wife, according to God's ordinance ; and fb conclude with prayer. 
 
 Art. XXI. Of (he Burial of the Dead. 
 
 Chrift hath no where in his word commanded any ceremony to be. 
 made ufe of over a dcccalcd perfbn, either previous to, or at the inter- 
 ment ; fuch as finglng, praying, &c. Therefore it fccms mofl con- 
 fiflent that the dead body be in a decent manner conveyed to the place
 
 Appendix.] TO THE SOUTH-SEA ISLANDS. 
 
 3D5 
 
 appointed for public burial, and then immediately committed to the 
 earth. Yet it is the duty of every Chriftian friend earneftly to endea- 
 vour to improve the bereaving difpcnfation, by meditation and confe-^ 
 rences fuitable thereto. — And it is likewifc incumbent upon the paftor 
 of the congregation to cndca\ our to fpeak a word in feafoii to fur\ivors, 
 fuitable to the occafion. 
 
 The Form of Signature as follows : 
 
 We whofc names are underwritten do, in the prcfencc of God and 
 each other, acknowledge and believe all and every one of the above 
 articles are agreeable to and confonant with the word 6( God ; and are, 
 through divine affilbuice, refolved to promulgate and teach the truths 
 contained therein among the heathen ; and purpofe, by the /lime 
 grace to live conformable thereunto, to the glory of God, until death. 
 
 Daniel Bowell 
 John Buchanan 
 James Fleet Cover 
 John Harris 
 William Henry 
 Thomas Lew^s 
 Edward Main 
 William Shelley 
 Henry Bicknell 
 Benjamin Broomhall 
 Samuel Clode 
 John Cock 
 James Cooper 
 William Crook 
 
 John Eyre 
 S. Gaul ton 
 Samuel Harper 
 Rowland Haffall 
 Peter Hodges 
 John Jefferfon 
 S. Kelfo 
 Henry Nott 
 Francis Oakes 
 James Puckey 
 William Puckey 
 William Smith 
 George Vafon 
 James Wilkinfon 
 
 o E 
 
 SUBSCRIBERS
 
 SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES, 
 
 —?■»«•»:-»•= 
 
 2V FRIEND, Hull 
 
 Abbott, W. Colchcfter 
 
 Aider, Mr. Plymouth 
 
 Allcock, Ur. Litchfield 
 
 Alexander, R. Qucen's-fquare, Bartholo- 
 
 tncw-clofe. 
 Alliuit, C. Walliiigford 
 Amor, R. Great Bath-ftreet 
 Ames, D. jun Ilcllcrden, Norfolk 
 Andrew, J. Henry -llrect, Old-ftreet 
 Annereau, Stones'-end, Borough 
 Antonie, Capt. Hull 
 Antonie, Mrs. Hull 
 Armond, E. Efq. Norwich 
 Arrow, Mifs A. Wcllbfck-ftrcet 
 Arundale, G. Long Acre 
 Auftin, J. Cumberland-ftrcet, Shorcdltch 
 Aft, W. Wakefield 
 Aflicroft, W. Vir^inia-ftreet 
 Anderfon, Lady, York 
 
 B. 
 
 Baldwin, W. Long-lane 
 
 Bancroft, Mr. Artillery-place, Weftminfter 
 
 Barker, J. Bafinghall-flrect 
 
 Barratt, B. Regley, Stafl'ordfhire 
 
 Barnett, Mr. Heyworth 
 
 Baldwin, D. 73, Long-lane, Sralthfidd 
 
 Baffano, ,1. Upper Thamcs-ftrcct 
 
 Badin, Mr. Clapham 
 
 Batterft>y, Mr. 3!), Strand 
 
 Bate, A. Ponder's End 
 
 Baldy, Mr. Portfea 
 
 Bailer, Mr. Shecrnefs 
 
 Banbury Union Book Society 
 
 Barton, Rev. J. Yarmouth 
 
 Bee, Mr. Lambeth 
 
 Beaumont, J. Beach-llveet 
 
 Beard, Mr. Plymouth 
 
 Beane, Lieutenant, Royal Artil. Shecrnefs 
 
 Beafley, .7. Chapel-jjath, Somers Town 
 
 Bellhoufe, Mr. Falmouth 
 
 BeHliar, Mr. Briilol 
 
 Bellis, G. Gray's-Inn-lane 
 
 Bell, W. Layitall-fbeet, Leather-lane 
 
 Bennis, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Ben'iley, Mr. Yarm 'uth 
 
 Bentley, Mrs. Wellclofc-fquare 
 
 Bigg, Mr. .Sbrcrnefs 
 
 Binns, J. Wakefield 
 
 BingwooJ, Mr. Portiea 
 
 Billiop, Mr. .J. Camden Town 
 
 Bilhoj), W. iJean-ftrcct, Fetter-lane 
 
 BKhop, Mrs. A. Sheernefs 
 
 Bhickall, Mrs. Nottingham 
 
 Blanch, Mr. Hull 
 
 Blake, Mr. Portfea 
 
 Biackett, J. WeftSmithficId 
 
 Blades, T. Piccadilly 
 
 Black, .J. H. Bi(ho[))gate, Without 
 
 Bodis, R. Shinficid, near Reading 
 
 Boreham, Mr. Royal Navy, Sheernefs 
 
 Bolvinc, Mif-, Penryn 
 
 Boggis, J. Golchelier 
 
 Boulton, J. Birmingham 
 
 Bound, W. Clcrkcnwell-clofc 
 
 Boydrom, iMrs. Yarmouth 
 
 Bridges, Mr. IG, North umberland-ft. Mary- 
 
 le-bonc 
 BrooklTjank, ^frs. Bath 
 Brown, H. W'oolwiciv 
 Brotherton, T. Margaret-ftreet, Cavendlfti- 
 
 fcjuare 
 Broughton, Mr. Rofe Inn, Holborn-bridge 
 Brown, Mr. Giafton-ftreet, I'itzroy-fquare 
 Browne, J. Coletnan-drcet 
 Browne, II. Artillery School, Woolwich. 
 Bro<ibank, Mr. Sheernefs 
 Bryant, Mr. Cloth Fair 
 Brookman, Mrs. Briltol 
 Brown, .J. jun. St. C'atherine's 
 Brown, W. jun. Pojiiar 
 Brown, P. uO, Leather-lane 
 Burkett, .1. Sudliury 
 Rurgefs, Mr. l'"alinouth 
 Burn, P. Falmouth 
 Buircll, Mr. Plymouth 
 Bunn, Mrs. Froome 
 Butt, J. Efq. Yarmouth 
 Burton, Mi(s, Epping 
 Buckfey, R. \S ii)chc(ler 
 Bold, John, Prefcott 
 Brent, J. Rotherhithc. 
 
 c. 
 
 Carden, J. Brighton 
 Carman, Mr. talmouth 
 Crump, Mr. James, Coventry
 
 SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 
 
 Cm, jNIr. Royf.I Navy- 
 Carter, Mr. riymouth 
 
 Carter, Mr. Nottingliain 
 
 Catefby, J. lifq. ClajjUani 
 • Catefby, Mi is, do. 
 
 Carr, \V. \armouth 
 
 Carfon, Dr. Armagh, Ireland 
 
 Carfon, N. do. 
 
 Cafemcnt, W. Pitt-flreet, Fitzroy-fquare 
 
 Cafement, E. do. 
 
 Chambers, W. Sheernefs 
 
 Chance, T. Ebley 
 
 Chaler, W. Charles-ftrect, Long Acre 
 
 Cheefeman, Mr. Sheerxiels 
 
 Cherry, Mr. Bow 
 
 Chignell, T. Colchcfter 
 
 Chilteu, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Chiney, 1\ Banbury 
 
 Chubb, Mr. Plymouth 
 ' Clifton, Mr. Hanover-flreet, Long- Acre 
 
 Claridge, G. C. Towcefter 
 
 Clarkfon, Mrs. Hull 
 
 Clefley, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Clerklbn, J. Sheernefs 
 
 Cliilbld, S. Stroud, Gloucefter 
 
 Clark, L. B. Yarmouth 
 
 Cleghorn, W. New Tothill-Hrcet 
 
 Clerk, E. Flcet-ftreet 
 
 Courtfeaa-, Mifs, Portfea 
 
 Colman, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Cooper, J. Dunkirk 
 
 Cole, W. Colchefter, Effex 
 
 Cook, .1. Gate-ftreet, Lincoln's Inn Fields 
 
 Cooper, Dr. Fahnouth 
 
 Collier, W. Plymouth 
 
 Cookworthy, P. Plymouth 
 
 Colman, R. Horfelydown 
 
 Cole, J. 'Whitechaj)cl 
 
 Cornell, Mrs. Dorfet-flreet 
 
 Cochereau, M. St. .lohn's-flreet 
 
 Court, H. Fcatherftone-ftrect 
 
 Corney, W. Broad-flreet, Golden-fquare 
 
 Cox, Lieut. .T. Royal Navy 
 
 Cox, W. Chatham 
 
 Colefon, Mr. Hull 
 
 Compton, W. Davicp-flrect 
 
 Crcllin, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 C^rip))en, W. Tower-ftrcct 
 
 ('rookfhank.-;, A. St. George's 'j'crrace 
 
 Curry, 'J'. Sheernefs 
 
 Crow, Mr. Stroud, Kent 
 
 Cuelj Mr. Allfop's-buiidings, New Road 
 
 D. 
 
 Davies, Dr. Reading 
 Davidfon, Mr. Slitctncfs 
 
 Davis, Mr. Froorae 
 
 Davies, G. Chatham • 
 
 Dando, Mr. Jetfom's-row 
 
 Debnam, \V. New Jcrfey, N. A. 
 
 Deake, Captain, I'almouth 
 
 Devonfliirc, Mr. do. 
 
 Dickie, T. bookfeller,- Bow-lane, 2a copies 
 
 Dicks, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Dimmock, Mr. Winchefter 
 
 Dial, Mr. Portfea 
 
 Doughty, Mr. Portfea 
 
 Doudhe)', Mr. do. 
 
 Doughty, Mr; .Sheernefs 
 
 Dorr, .1. Sheernefs 
 
 Doman, Mr. Norwich 
 
 Dugard, P. 158, AVhitecrofs-ftreet 
 
 Davis, Mr. lob, Biftiopfgnte-llreet 
 
 Dietuvan, J. Tottenham Court Road 
 
 E. 
 
 Eaflerby, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Ecles, J. Old Ford 
 
 Edmonds, J. Sheernefs 
 
 Edwards, Mr. do. 
 
 Edifs, Mr. Bifhopfgate-ftreet 
 
 Edwards, E. Biook-ftrect, Holborn 
 
 Ellis, B. Wakefield 
 
 Elliott, Rev. R. Banwell 
 
 Elliott, Mr. Portfea 
 
 Elgar, Mr. do. 
 
 Euglifh, Mr. Swan-ftairs 
 
 Evans, Mr. Sheernel's 
 
 f^vans, Mifs S. Koyal-row, Lambeth 
 
 Evans, Mr. High-llreet, ^^'aJ)ping 
 
 Edmonds, R. CJray's-Inn-Lane 
 
 Elliot, C. Hayes, Middlefex 
 
 Elliot, R. Hanovcr-ftreet, Long Acre 
 
 P'yre, Mr. Charing Crofs 
 
 Everfdale, Mr. Villiers-ftreet, Strand 
 
 Feakins, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Fcathcrllone, Mr. do. 
 
 I'ergufon, R. Chambers-fl. Goodman's-fields 
 
 Fergufon, Mrs. Stephen-ftrcet 
 
 Fergufon, W. 3, Rofe-place, Iflingtou 
 
 Field, .1. 50, Leather-lane 
 
 Ford, Rev. Mr. Melford, Suffolk 
 
 Forreft, Mr. Little King-ftrcet, St. James's 
 
 Fowler, Rev. Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Fox, Mr. A. jun. Falmouth 
 
 P'rankland, J. Bifliopfgate-ltreet 
 
 Francis, Mr. Plymouth 
 
 Fry, Mrs. A. Birklcy-lquare, Brlftol. 
 
 Fuller, W. Shccrucfs
 
 SUDSCRIBERS' NAMES. 
 
 Freeman, D. I't, Cec-ftrcet, Cofwcll-ftreet 
 Flavell, \V. bookbinder, 14, Great Ncw-ft. 
 
 Gough-lquarc. 
 Fergilyous, Mr. Stroud, Kent 
 Field, J. City Uo.id 
 Freeman, J. Whitcomb-flrcct 
 Fitrioy, Mr. Dartmouth-llrcet 
 Fortcr, Mr. Ij.!, Oxlord-Ctrcet 
 Frerc, Mr. King's-bcnch-walk, Temple 
 Fox, \V. liaikncy 
 Fairy, Mr. Mill-yard, Goodman's-fields. 
 
 G. 
 
 Garnhani, W. Whitccrofs-ftrect 
 
 Gates, W. Brighton 
 
 Galland, Mr. Iluil 
 
 Gay, W. Falmouth 
 
 Gamon, M. Alderlgate-ftrcct 
 
 Gardiner, J. Wardour-llrcet, Soho 
 
 Gardiner, T. Princes-lh Cavcndiih-fquare 
 
 Gamidge, Mrs. W'orcefter 
 
 George, W. Brick-lane, Spital-fields 
 
 Gibbs, T. Moor-llrect, Soho 
 
 Gibfon, A. H. Plymouth 
 
 Gibbs, J. Alderfgate-llrect 
 
 Gillman, Mr. Bank-buildings 
 
 Gibbs, T. Lemon ftrcct 
 
 Gill, Rev. Mr. Eppiiig, 2 copies 
 
 Gilham, W. Xcwington Butts 
 
 Gill, G. Holborn 
 
 Gordon,'!'. Lambs-Conduit-llrect, 4 copies 
 
 Goveit, Mr. Plymouth 
 
 Goodrick, W. E. St. Mary-Ie-hone 
 
 Goodrick, Mrs. do. 
 
 Goodrick, Mifs do. 
 
 Goodrick, Mils E. do. 
 
 Gorham, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Golding, Mr. Sbeerncfs 
 
 Gordon, J. Armagh, Ireland 
 
 Goulton, Mr. Hull 
 
 Gott, Mrs. ()j;le-(treet 
 
 Green, J. Upper Thames-ftrcet 
 
 Griffin, Rev. Mr. Portlea 
 
 Grimmer, Mr. Yarmouth 
 
 Green, J. Epping 
 
 Greathead, i". Sheernefs 
 
 Gunby, D. 3, Crefcent, .lewin-fireet 
 
 Gwcnnap, Mr. Falmouth 
 
 Gale, Mr. Spital-fiolds 
 
 Grccniield, E. Mitcham 
 
 Gold, Mrs. Nottingham 
 
 Gabriel, C. 32, Eanner-llrect 
 
 Grant, W. Wclls-rtrect, Oxford-llrect 
 
 Grant, Pump-Court, I.ong-lane 
 
 Gravenor, Mrs, Coventry 
 
 II. 
 
 Holman, H. Sudbury 
 
 Hughes, Rev. T. A. iNI. Vicar of Rockfield 
 
 Hatch, H. Exeter 
 
 I lumber, R. Brighton, 2 copies 
 
 llaylor, Mr Brighton 
 
 Huxky, .1. AUkrfgate-ftrcet 
 
 llawkdey, Hull 
 
 Hewl'on, Hull 
 
 liitchins. Rev. Mr. Falmouth 
 
 Hambly, W. Efq. Mayor of Falmouth 
 
 Hayes, Mrs. E. Falmouth 
 
 Howflcy, S. Smithtield-bars 
 
 Ilolloway, Rev. Mr. Reading. 
 
 1 lalil'ax, Mrs. do. 
 
 Harris, Mr Plymouth 
 
 Halliday, Mr. do. 
 
 Hedtlington, Lieut, do. 
 
 Harllct, Mr. Portfea 
 
 Henwood, Mr. do. 
 
 Holiday, Mr. .Shcernel's 
 
 Hearnc, Mr. cto. 
 
 Handcock, Mr. do. 
 
 Herring, Mr. do. 
 
 Hadlow, Mr. do. . 
 
 I-Iodlcll, Mr. do. 
 
 Hudfon, E. do. 
 
 Hinds, Mr. do. . 
 
 Hall, Mr. do. 
 
 Hallely, Mr. do.- 
 
 llolton, Mrs. Stroud, Gloucefter : 
 
 Hammond, Mr. Yarmouth 
 
 Horn, n. do. 
 
 Hebbewhite, W. . 
 
 Hebbewhite, J. 
 
 Howard, Mr. Friday-lireet • 
 
 Howes, Mr. Bank 
 
 Harrifon, W. Elq. Finch-lane 
 
 Harris, W. .Shadwell 
 
 Ilumphrv.';, Rev. J. Ratcliff Highway . 
 
 Hudlbn, J. Bank-buildings, Merton 
 
 Henry, Rev. W. Armagh, Ireland 
 
 Harris, Mr.' Great Timber-ltrect 
 
 Hearu, Mr. Caftle-flreet, Borough 
 
 Hcarn, J. do. 
 
 Hamplbn, IMr. Sheernefs 
 
 Hays, W. Houndfditch 
 
 Hart, H. Red Lion-ft. Southwark 
 
 Hudfon, Mr. Hull 
 
 Hinds, .(. \Vhitechaj)eI 
 
 Harris, P. 50, Leather-lane 
 
 Hazard,'!'. Greenfield-rtreet 
 
 Hench, Mrs. Mary-lc-bone-llrcct 
 
 Hill, Mrs. Tottenham-court- road 
 
 Hanny, Mrs. Hertford-fireet, Fitzroy-fiuare 
 
 Haliday, Mrs. Charlotte-ltreet, Portland-road 
 
 Harrifon, Mr. Bromfgrove, 3 copies.
 
 SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 
 
 Herbert, Mr. John, Cwentry 
 
 Hill, William, Preicott 
 
 Hurft, Mils, Nottingham 
 
 Harrilbn, Mifs, do. 
 
 Ilardie, T. No. 4, Rolfover-ftreet 
 
 Hammond, S. Birmingham 
 
 Harrifon, G. 25, L'nion-ftreet, Hackney-road 
 
 Hill, Mrs. Taviftock-itrctt 
 
 Hutchinfon, Mr. Birmingham 
 
 Hands, ,'. Towccfter 
 
 Hudfon, Rev. Mr. Stapleford Abbots, Eflex 
 
 Harrold, Mifs, Princes-row, Milc-end 
 
 I- J- 
 
 Jones, W. Walbrook 
 
 Jackfon, MiCs, Mclford, Suffolk 
 
 Inwood, R. Great New-rtreet 
 
 Jones, G. \Ve3'mouth-llrcet 
 
 Jones, B. Haverfordwell 
 
 Jones, Mr. Brighton 
 
 Jennings, J. Falmouth 
 
 Ivory, J. Hoi born-bridge 
 
 Ivory, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Jarvis, Mr. do. 
 
 Jones, N. Stroud, Gloucefterfhire 
 
 Jones, Mr Pope's-head alle 
 
 Jacklbn, Mr. S. Briftol 
 
 Jones, J. do. 
 
 Jones, S. Armagh, Ireland 
 
 Jacklbn, Mr. Shcernefs 
 
 Jones, E. Monmouth 
 
 Jamefon, D. Ofvveftry 
 
 Independent C'hurch, Nottingham, 2: copies 
 
 Jones, T. Mould, Chefhire 
 
 Jones, G. Weymouth-Iueet, Portland-place 
 
 Jackfon, R. 4, Piu-adifc-ll. Tabernacle- walk 
 
 Jones, E. 72, Coleman-ftreet 
 
 Jones, T. Birmingham 
 
 Jennings, Mr. Henrictta-ftreet 
 
 Ireland, Mr. Caiinon-ftreet 
 
 Johnfon, Mr. Snow's-fields. 
 
 Jerterfon, Rev. Mr. Balingllokc, 4 copies 
 
 Johnfon, Mr. Peter, Coventry 
 
 K. 
 
 King, J. She^rnefs 
 
 Kennitt, J. Holywell-Ianc, Shoreditch 
 
 King, Mr. l.aughton 
 
 Kimpton, R. \\ ardour-flrcet, Soho. 
 
 Killham, T. 'lottenham-coiut-road 
 
 Kidder, T. W'ood-liriet, C'heaplide 
 
 I. 
 
 I ong, P. Crookrd-lane 
 Latin, J. Davics-llrcct 
 
 I^ockwood, E. Frith-flreet, Soho 
 
 Lovelefs, J. Leadenhall-t^reet 
 
 Long, T. 7, Charterhoufe-lane 
 
 Lord, Mr. Worcefter 
 
 Long, J. Chrift-church hofpital 
 
 Law rey, Dr. Falmouth 
 
 Lean, J. do. 
 
 Legg, J. Reading 
 
 Longbottom, J. 17, Featherftouc-buildings 
 
 I.ennington, Mrs. Plymouili 
 
 Luccock, T. Kimbolton, Hunts. 
 
 Lovell, Mr. Yarmouth 
 
 Lait, Mr. fenior, Yarmouth 
 
 Lewis, Mr. Yarmouth 
 
 Lithybee, Mr. Change-alley 
 
 Lowr}', Rev. J. Anni.gh, Ireland 
 
 Lonlclale, Mr. Yarmouth 
 
 I.ettice, Mr. do. 
 
 Leith, Mr. Little New-ftreet 
 
 Langley, W, Chatham, Kent 
 
 Landbcck, G. Moorfields 
 
 London Chriftian Book Society 
 
 Lewis, E. Crooked-lane 
 
 Liitlcworth, IMrs. Reading 
 
 Lee, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Law, Mr. Ave Maria-lane, 25 copies 
 
 Lucas, Mr. Pentonville 
 
 Levett, J. Colchefter, Eflex 
 
 Lewis,'!'. ^^ albrook 
 
 Lucy, J. St. .lohn-ftreet 
 
 Long, J. Rofamond-ftreet, Clerkenwetl 
 
 Lyde, .1. Northamjjton-ftreet, do. 
 
 Lack, . I. 3, F"ort-(lreet 
 
 Lawlon, Captain John, Liverpool 
 
 M. 
 
 Morgan, E. Eriftol 
 
 Mackintoih, Mr. 14, Serlc-ft.Linccln's-Irin 
 
 May, Mr. Lewes, Suflex 
 
 Maxfield, Mr. do. 
 
 Mutton, R. Falmouth 
 
 Martin, J. do. 
 
 Moyfey, Mr. Plymouth 
 
 Mitchell, T. Efq. Sheernefs 
 
 May, J. Sheernefs 
 
 Milgatc, Mr. do. 
 
 MonflKuv, Mr. do. 
 
 Miles, J. Stroud, Gloncefter 
 
 Murray, Mr. City'-road 
 
 Mullinger, W. Chatham, Kent 
 
 Murrell, S. Ray-ftreet, Coldbath-fields 
 
 Mills, J. jun. Great Earl-ftrect, Seven Dials 
 
 Munro, D. 8,01d Coinpton-ftreet, Soho 
 
 P-Ionk, J. Riifamon<l-llre<t, Clerkenwell 
 
 Middleton, W. .lohn-ltreet, BermondK-y 
 
 Moor, J. 37, Barbican 
 
 Millie, T. 22, l^nion-ltrcet
 
 SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 
 
 Maxwell, M. C. Efq. Evcrlngham 
 
 Mortis, W. Woolwich 
 
 Medlycott, R. 40, lIolywcll-ftreet,Shoredltch 
 
 Moor, Mr. 1 lolborn 
 
 Miller, Mr. Tower-ftrect 
 
 Milne, A. Tottenhain-court-road 
 
 Mihier, C. do. 
 
 May, Mr. 5, Turkc-ftrcct, Bcthnal-green 
 
 More, Mr. St. Martin's-court 
 
 Markham, Mr. Paliner'6-village,Wcftminficr 
 
 Morgan, Mrs. Bath 
 
 Macdonakl, VV. R. 85, ChiCvvell-ftrect 
 
 Morrow, W. 2i, Willbn-ltreet, Finfbury 
 
 N. 
 
 Ncvell, W, Brighton 
 
 Neville, Mr. Royal Navy, Sheemels 
 
 Newfon, Mr. do. 
 
 Newes, Mr. do. 
 
 Nichols, W. do. 
 
 Ncale, T. Stroud, Gloucefterlhirc' 
 
 Niggs, Mr. Briilol 
 
 Nicliolls, Mrs. Pcnryn 
 
 Norwall, J. Bridol 
 
 Nickcli, fen. Colchefter, Eflex 
 
 Newman, Mils, Birmingham 
 
 Newton, T. Tenter-ground, Finfbury, 
 
 O. 
 
 Orme, Mr. Hollcs-ftreet, Cavendlfh-fquare 
 
 Olive, Mrs. 7, ParCons'-yanl, .Shoreditch 
 
 Orange, Mr. Wakefield 
 
 Orio, Mrs. Plymouth 
 
 Ogalby, Mrs.'Portl'ea 
 
 Orr, W. Sheernefs 
 
 Odell, Mrs. 9, Duke-ft. Grofvenor-fq. 
 
 Overall, M. Horllcydown 
 
 Ogborn, Mr. R. Bilhopfgate-ftreet, 14 copies 
 
 Otbie, B. 31, Charlottc-llreet, Whitcchapel 
 
 Pickering, Mr. RatclifF Highway 
 Purdon, Mr. Hull 
 Phillips, S. Kalmouth 
 Painter, Mils, Pcnryn 
 Powell, Mils, Plymouth 
 Pearce, T. II. C. do. 
 Palmer, Mailer, Sheernefs 
 Pijjer, A. do. 
 Pearlbn, Mr. do. 
 Parker, Mr. do. 
 Pctch, Mr. do. 
 Prankhurlt, Mr, do* 
 
 Pierce, Mr. Sheernefs 
 
 Ptarfon, J. do. 
 
 Parry, J. Stroud, GloucefteOSiire 
 
 Peyton, J. do. 
 
 Pritchard, Mifs, Stroud, Gloucefter 
 
 Pattcrlbn, G. Yarmouth 
 
 Palmer, W. U. jun. do. 
 
 Pcmeller, F. Brook-ftreet, Holborn 
 
 Pcmeller, ,1. do. 
 
 Powell, G. Briftol 
 
 Perry, E. 457, Strand 
 
 Phillips, Mr. St. Alban's-ftreet 
 
 Palk, J. 26, Curtain-road 
 
 Pcmble,G. Chatham, Kent 
 
 Palmer, B. W^ilderncl's-row ^ 
 
 Potts, J. Newington Butts, 2 copies 
 
 Parfons, Rev. .J. T. Woburn 
 
 Pcnrofe, Mrs. Hull 
 
 Pellew, S. Efq. Falmouth 
 
 Pears, Mr. S. Coventry 
 
 Pearfon, Mr. do. 
 
 Pyrkes, J. Dorrington-llreet, Coldbath-fields 
 
 Peacock, Mr. Nottingham 
 
 Phipps, P. Towcelter 
 
 Pieffe, C. 2.Q, Dukc-ftreet, Manchcfter-fquars 
 
 Pitt, Mr. Lambeth 
 
 Picrcy, W. W oolwick 
 
 Pike, B. Bunyan-row 
 
 R. 
 
 Rickwood, R. Red Lion-ftreet, Holbom 
 Richards, Rev. J. Hull 
 Rice, W. Falmouth 
 Richards, J. do 
 Richards, R. do. 
 Rulher, J. Reading 
 Richards, Mr. Plymouth, 6 copies 
 Ramfey, P. Mary-le-bone-ftreet 
 Row, Mr. Newport Pagnell 
 Ryle, .1. Efq. Macclesfield 
 Reynolds, Mr. Beech>-ltreet 
 Reader, S. Cranbrook 
 Riddle, Mr. New-ftrect, Shoe-lane 
 Robertfon, T. .lewry-fireet, Aldgate 
 Rugby, Mr. Morton-in-Mark, Gloucefter 
 Randoll, Mr. City-road 
 Rccders, .1. E. Halifax 
 Ruifell, Mr. Doynton, Glonccfter 
 Richardfon, S. Nottingham 
 Roberts, F. St. Martiii's-court 
 Roberts, Mr. Sion-fquare 
 Rogers, E. 21, Aldermanbury 
 Robinfon, F. Gutter-lane, C'hcapfide 
 Rees, Capt. Gralton-il. Tottenham court-^pai 
 Rabbith, J. Red Lion-ltreet, Holborn 
 Robinfon, Mr, Liverpool 
 J F
 
 SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 
 
 S. 
 
 Shirk)-, R. Chatham, Kent 
 
 Sherwood, W. Monmouth 
 
 Saimie], VV. Vsaks 
 
 Smith, J. Miles'-lane, Cannon-ilreet 
 
 Suiiiiicr, W. Cleikenvvcll-clofe 
 
 Sweet, S.-London-houre-yard 
 
 Stock, J. Cock-lane 
 
 Surgcy, Mr. St. Martin's-court 
 
 Saunders, J. Charles'-fqiiare, HoxtOH 
 
 Sims, T. Bafinghall-ftreet 
 
 Stevens, W. Brighton 
 
 Smith, R. do. 
 
 Scutt, W. do. 
 
 Symonds, S. Fahnouth 
 
 Synionds, R. do. 
 
 Symond?, Mr. Penr^m 
 
 Shilfion, Mr. Plymouth 
 
 .Stanton, \V. Plymouth 
 
 Smith, O. Portlea 
 
 Smith, Mr. Royal Navy, Sheernefs 
 
 Severy, Mr. do. 
 
 Symonds, J. do. 
 
 Smith, R. dc. 
 
 Smith, Mr. do. 
 
 Stevens, S. Kimbolton, Hunts. 
 
 Smith, Mr. Wellbridge 
 
 Shelly, J. jun. \armouth 
 
 Scholey, G. Old Swan-Hairs 
 
 Salmon, Mr. Charing-crofs 
 
 Swain, \\. Briftol 
 
 Sauger, J. Southampton 
 
 Selway, J. South Devon Regiment 
 
 Symonds, H.D. Paternofter-row, 150 copies 
 
 Selles, Chevalier de, formerly Lieutenant in 
 
 the French navy 
 Sherrin, T. jun. Brook -ftreet, Holborn 
 Scott, B. Tabernacle-row 
 Shaw, VV. Great Warner-ftreet 
 Shears, M. Rofamond-ftreet, Clcrkenwell 
 Spur, VV. King-Itrcet, Spital-fields 
 Sallowa)'', M. Fafhion-ftreet 
 Sims, Mr. Bithopfgate-ftreet 
 Sibly, E. Brick-lane, Spital-fields 
 Sayer,Mr. Charlcs-ltrect,Middlefex Hofpltal 
 Stacy, Mrs. Portland-flrect 
 Soles, T. Sheernefs 
 Still, T. Shad 'I'hames 
 Sleigh, T. Regley, Staffordfliire 
 Spiller, J. do. 
 Stephens, J. do. 
 Smart, R. Bridewell Ilofpital 
 Simner, R. 13, Helmet-iow, Old-llreet 
 Stride, Mr. Strood, Kent 
 Spurgeon, J. Colchefter, Effex 
 Swann, E. Nottingham 
 Salutation Society, do. 
 
 Sims, Mr. .Lhienhall-ftrcet, Cheftcr 
 
 Scott, G. Keniington, .Surry, 
 
 Shcphard, Mils, Burcott 
 
 Sayer, T. Good^e-llreet 
 
 Sergeant, J. Crcicent, Jewln-ftrect 
 
 Smith, Mr. Holborn 
 
 Stone, J. Featherftoiie-buildings, Hplbtirtt 
 
 Smith, T. Houndfditch 
 
 Smith, Mrs. do. 
 
 Simpfon, Mr. Martin's-lane, Cannon-ftreet 
 
 .Smith, R. Woolwich 
 
 Stradley, J. Woolwich 
 
 Smith, J. Primrole-ftreet 
 
 Towers, Rev. .J. Barbican 
 
 1 hompion, Mrs. Broad-court, Long Acre 
 
 Thorne, Mr. Derby 
 
 Theaker, W. Colvill-court, Rathbone-placc 
 
 Taylor, Mr. Hull 
 
 Taylor, Rev. Mr. Offett 
 
 Todd, Captain L. Falmouth 
 
 Tienary, Captain, do. 
 
 Thomas, R. do. 
 
 Tookey, T. St. Mary le bone 
 
 Turnbull, Mrs. Portlea 
 
 Temple, Mr. Sheernels 
 
 Terry, Mr. do. 
 
 Treafure, B. Frome 
 
 Tuck, J. do. 
 
 Thomas, Mils, St. Mary le bone 
 
 Tomlmfon, J. Nottingham 
 
 Taylor, Mr. iiow-lane, Cheapfidc 
 
 Taylor, Mr. Southend 
 
 Titchiner, T. 1 , Hooper-ftreet 
 
 Tillbn, Mifs, Watling Park, Oxon. 
 
 V. 
 
 Veitch, Mr. Plymouth 
 Vidler, T. Leonard-ftreet, Shoreditch 
 Vowell, J. Catlle-ftreet, I3orough 
 Yarlander, J. Colchefter, Effex 
 
 W. 
 
 W^ilcox, D. Exeter 
 
 AVigney,W\ Elq. Brighton 
 
 Wood, Mils, P. Brighton 
 
 Wilkinibn, T. 3, Lawrence-lane, Cheapfide 
 
 Whitehead, Mrs. Brydges-ft. Covent-gardeo 
 
 Wray, Mr. Hull 
 
 Walker, Mr. do. 
 
 Wilkinibn, Mr. do. 
 
 Wille, Mr. Lewes 
 
 Wharton, W. Bicefter, Oxo«
 
 SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 
 
 Wliitchurch, I'l-.v. Mr. Bromley, Hants. 
 
 Welch, I). Falmouth 
 
 Wright, VV. II. Great Bath-ftreet 
 
 Wild, T. Kcading 
 
 Wickers, E. Paddington 
 
 Wright, Mr. Stoke Xewingtoa 
 
 Wilfon, Mils, Portfca 
 
 Well, IV'Ir. Royal Navy, Sheernef* 
 
 Wif^illworth, Mr. Lincoln 
 
 Wilkins, Mr. Sheerueis 
 
 ^Vidqcon, Mr. do. 
 
 Webber, J. do. 
 
 Webtlcr, Mr. do. 
 
 WooUlon, J. Banbury 
 
 Workman, W. Weftfhlp 
 
 Ward, Mrs. Yarmouth 
 
 Withey, W. Chapel-itreet, Holywell-mouat 
 
 Wihbn, Rev. A. Armagh, Ireland 
 
 Weftern, A. St. John's'-llreet 
 
 Williams, J, Robert-llrect, Bcdford-rovr 
 
 Wilkinfou, Mr. Norwich 
 
 WiikinCon, Mr. Gain(borough 
 
 W-jldergravc, C. J^ondoa 
 
 Ward, .Mr. .Shcfrnefs 
 
 Wiggin, Mifs, Worcefter 
 
 Woodhoufe, S. Barnet 
 
 Wri;.dit, R. I lackney-road 
 
 Whitcwell, Mr. Tottenhain-court-road 
 
 Webb, Mr. Liverpool 
 
 Wilkins, R. Ncwingtoa-caufeway, 6 copies 
 
 Wilkinfon, Mr. Bath 
 
 Waddup, Mr. Strood, Kent 
 
 Waddcll, Rev. J. Nayland, Suffolk 
 
 Wright, Ct. Efq. 'I'ottenham-courl-road 
 
 Wilmot, T. Woolwich 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yearns, Mrs. Dover 
 Young, Mr. Fortfe* 
 
 T. Cillet, E^inter, Saliftury-Squarei
 
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