B 
 
 
 °m RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 Q == S OF THE 
 
 ■! SALZK AMMERGUT. 
 
 § ■! SOIL, SALZBURG, BAD GASTEI1V, 
 
 A SKETCH OF TRIESTE 
 
 FRANKFORT ON THE MA1XE 
 
 AND 
 
 THE BATHS OF HOMEURG II< WINTER 
 
 BY J. JOYCE. 
 
 (WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. G. MVY it WIRS1NG.) 
 
 >rnia frankfort o. m., 
 
 jj SOLD BY DIFFERENT BOOKSELLERS IN FRANKFORT O. M., MUNICH, 
 
 SALZBURG, ISCHL, J.INZ AND VIENNA. 
 
 1*51.
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 SANTA BARBARA 
 
 
 FROM THE LIBRARY 
 OF F. VON BOSCHAN
 
 UCSB LIBRARY
 
 V 
 ^
 
 RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 SALZKAMMERGUT, 
 
 ISCHL, SALZBURG, BAD GASTEIN, 
 
 WITH 
 
 A SKETCH OF TRIESTE 
 FRANKFORT ON THE MAINE 
 
 AND 
 
 THE BATHS OF HOMBURG IN WINTER 
 
 BY J. JOYCE. 
 
 (with illustrations.) 
 
 FRANKFORT o. M., 
 
 SOLD BY DIFFERENT BOOKSELLERS IN FRANKFORT 0. M., MUNICH. 
 SALZBURG, ISCHL, LINZ AND VIENNA. 
 
 1*51.
 
 n£raE®®H(S^®Mp 
 
 1 should be wanting in proper respect to 
 my Readers , were I not to account as well 
 as I can, for my presumption in appearing 
 before them. The motives that prompted me to 
 publish this little Work can be told in a few 
 Words. 
 
 When I was in that beautiful Country the 
 Salzkammergut last Summer , I found many 
 English and American Tourists, who did not 
 know a Word of any language but their own. 
 Consequently they were quite at a loss how 
 to ask for what they wanted, what Places they
 
 VI 
 
 ought to visit, and how they could best visit 
 those Places, so as to save their time, money 
 and labour; in a word, all abroad, (as they 
 say in the Ring) and at the mercy of the mer- 
 cenary People about them, who in the advice 
 they gave, naturally looked to their own in- 
 terest, in making the Traveller spend as much 
 as possible. 
 
 After I had been in the Country some time, 
 and had become acquainted with its Localities 
 customs <fcc. &c, the thought struck me, whe- 
 ther I could not give a few hints and a little 
 information, that might be useful to some fu- 
 ture Tourists, and in a form more conver- 
 sational and acceptable than the usual Rou- 
 tine and regular descriptions found in all the 
 Guide Books. 
 
 On my return to Trieste I set my Recol- 
 lections to work, (for I had not written a word
 
 VII 
 
 on the spot) with the intention of merely 
 throwing out some suggestions, which might 
 tend to render the way thro' that very inte- 
 resting Region more easy and agreeable to 
 some of my wandering Fellow Countrymen. 
 But alas ! these said Recollections have too 
 often led me astray from my main object, and 
 I may be truly charged with often more 
 amusing myself when recalling the Past than 
 seeking to give useful information to a 
 Traveller. 
 
 I have then to forewarn the kind Reader, 
 that he will continually have to exercise his 
 patience and good tempered indulgence in 
 perusing these Pages; and the satirical Reader 
 that he will find ample scope for the indul- 
 gence of sarcastic comments and ridicule. To 
 all Readers I have to offer excuses, for the 
 numerous Errata especially in the Punctuation ;
 
 vin 
 
 the Compositor altho a very intelligent young 
 Man knew not a word of English, and his task 
 of rendering the text perfect was a very dif- 
 ficult one. 
 
 In the description given of Bad Gastein, 
 there is an allusion to an Illustration of the 
 spot which for the present must be omitted.
 
 S^coiih Yteiiu-Oi to m 
 
 ivu%. 
 
 Une morning in the beginning of June, I 
 left my comfortable quarters the Stadt Frank- 
 furt in Vienna, early enough to reach Nussdorf 
 (from whence the Steamers take their depar- 
 ture) in good time to have my baggage 
 weighed, my passage money paid and to get on 
 board without the hurry and bustle attending 
 a more tardy arrival. Fortunately my effects 
 were within the prescribed weight, and here let 
 me say, the lightness of my travelling accom- 
 paniments saved me much trouble and expence 
 throughout my excursion. Seeing many passen- 
 gers already on board, and recollecting that we 
 should have to pass the night on the river, I 
 descended at once into the cabin with my
 
 2 
 
 carpet bag which I arranged so as to supply 
 the place of a pillow, and my pea jacket to 
 keep me warm , and there took possession 
 of a snug corner , placing my effects in due 
 order, and two or three Books on the table 
 before me, so as to indicate ownership : and 
 I took good care several times in the course 
 of the day to resume my seat, for the sake 
 of variety, reading, and quiet, and that the 
 world on board misrht recognize my right to it. 
 
 The evening preceding . and during the 
 night there had been much rain, and the morning 
 was dark, hazy and unpromising. We feared 
 that we should have to pass a wet and dis- 
 agreable day in a crowded cabin , but to- 
 wards eight it began to clear up. and soon 
 after the jolly old Sun burst forth, dispersing 
 all the mists, and dispelling all our misgivings. 
 
 The first cabin of the Steamer Dorothea 
 in which I took my passage was tolerably 
 large and well fitted up . that of the Sophie 
 I understand is much more capacious and 
 splendid. I found the service pretty good and
 
 3 
 
 reasonable enough when the requirements 
 were confined to the items, mentioned on the 
 Tariff, the prices of which are therein regu- 
 lated. Excellent Coffee , Milk , Bread , as at 
 Vienna, and a good Table d' hote, at half-past 
 one at a moderate price, (I forget how much) 
 Besides which, one could have at any hour 
 beefsteak and potatoes, or an excellent Ger- 
 man dish, Snitzel mit Kartoffeln (Veal cutlet 
 with potatoes), likewise stewed beef, which 
 resembled our beef a la mode, and portions 
 of various made dishes, which smelt-good, and 
 which the natives on board appeared to eat 
 with great relish. But let the passenger if 
 he be an economist, beware of calling for 
 any article especially of luxury not on the 
 list. A young Triestene friend, travelling with 
 me, asked for a small glass of Sherry, or Ma- 
 deira ; he was charged 24 Croitzers for his 
 glass of wine, and 12 Cr. for two very 
 small buiscuits. I thought proper to indulge in 
 a petit verre , they brought me Rum not 
 too old, and it cost me 12 Croitzers.
 
 4 
 
 As to the scenery on both sides of the 
 Danube , I will not pretend to describe it • 
 nor to particularize the different objects which 
 attract the observation of the passenger. E- 
 very Tourist, who wishes really to enjoy a 
 voyage on such a magnificent River, should 
 go to the expence of a Panorama, which is 
 to be bought very cheap at Vienna: for 
 it is almost impossible to follow the de- 
 scription given in any book , of the various 
 interesting objects which soon begin to pre- 
 sent themselves rapidly to one's view at 
 every turn on the river both to the right and 
 to the left. On the Panorama, there is not 
 only the name of every remarkable edifice, 
 whether Palace, Castle, Church or Monastery, 
 but also a small outline or sketch, so accura- 
 tely delineated as to enable the beholder 
 instantly to recognize and identify the place 
 and name , without troubling with questions 
 those around him. 
 
 For my part , I prefer the passage on 
 the Danube to that on the Rhine. Altho
 
 5 
 
 there may not to be seen any of those 
 strikingly romantic windings , nor any of 
 those beautiful openings bursting on the view., 
 which several well known parts of the Rhine 
 present , yet on the whole the eye is more 
 gratified and the interest kept more alive 
 during the day on the Danube. For some 
 miles after leaving Nussdorf, the borders 
 on both sides are flat but not unprofitable 
 judging from the cultivation , soon after the 
 heights begin to appear , and accompany us 
 the remainder of the day. The most re- 
 markable charm in the Austrian scenery is 
 the exquisitely beautiful verdure of field 
 and of forest. From the verge of the banks 
 on each side of the river, there intervenes a 
 verdant valley, extending to the base of those 
 magnificant hills or mountains rather , and 
 those, clothed to their summits with the everla- 
 sting pine, wearing the same charming livery 
 of Nature. Instead of the Castle in ruin, or 
 the rugged inaccessible Hold of some former 
 Brigand chief which in times gone by excited
 
 6 
 
 our interest on the Rhine, we have here on 
 every commanding elevation, some fine church, 
 or stately monastery, or some castle which 
 appears hahitable and inhabited by some lordly 
 possessor. Several of the religious Edifices 
 are quite princely , particularly that on the 
 left called the Molk, which brought to my re- 
 collection some engravings I had seen of the 
 Escurial. I was informed by a Gentleman on 
 board that vast as was the Establishment, it 
 was completely filled, and that its occupants, 
 the Brothers, devoted themselves to the in- 
 struction and the good of all around. 
 
 Every Englishman in passing will re- 
 gard with particular interest the castle of 
 Durrenstein on the right, in which our Lion 
 Richard was some time a prisoner : his deli- 
 verance forms such a pretty and romantic 
 incident in our history , that it seems scar- 
 cely worth while to throw doubts on the 
 authenticity of the legend, as some histo- 
 rians have done: but at all events Ave may 
 still believe it if we like, in spite of the prosaic
 
 7 
 
 conclusions of matter of fact writers, for if it 
 cannot be proved, it cannot be disproved at 
 this distance of time. 
 
 The day passed rapidly and pleasantly ; 
 the weather was fine, and the passengers so- 
 ciable. — I recollect being called on deck from 
 below by my friend, to view the most beautiful 
 spectacle of a wide and perfect circle tinged 
 at the inner extremity by the prismatic colors 
 surrounding at some distance the sun, then 
 enthroned in his meridian glory. — I recollect 
 also a trifling circumstance of a perfectly 
 mundane character, and scarcely worth men- 
 tioning but to show that our enjoyment of 
 the dilemmas of those around us, which they 
 say we are all more or less prone to feel, 
 may sometimes be testified malapropos. An 
 infirm old Gentleman whom I had observed 
 in the morning an object of great care and 
 attention to his family , had occasion to go 
 into a certain cabinet on board , the door of 
 which fastened itself in the interior by a con- 
 trivance very clean and ingenious for the
 
 8 
 
 initiated, but very puzzling and difficult to 
 reopen by those unskilled in the understanding 
 of locks, as the poor bungling inmate proved 
 to be; and the consequence was, that he was 
 kept, or rather kept himself prisoner for some 
 time, nor could the bawling explanation of the 
 steward and others on the outside, enable him 
 to discover the secret-spring. This made some 
 noise on board, and a young man sitting near 
 me on deck enquiring the cause and being 
 informed, rubbed his hands with gleeful sa- 
 tisfaction , laughing heartily and exclaiming, 
 what a droll thing, how diverting; a few mo- 
 ments after he was called by one of his fa- 
 mily to come below, and assist his Father out 
 of his durance while. I shall not easily forget 
 the sudden elongation of our young man's 
 countenance. I conclude the poor captive was 
 released after a time, for I saw the door wide 
 open in the morning. 
 
 The night proved dark and foggy, and we 
 were obliged to anchor some hours, it being 
 dangerous to pass the rapids of Werbil and
 
 9 
 
 Strudel near Grain, without good and sufficient 
 light to steer the vessel through them. I un- 
 derstand , at this part of the river the 
 scenery is very interesting and romantic, and 
 I regretted the obscurity which enveloped 
 every object in one universal thick and misty 
 mantle of night. Here let me make a digres- 
 sion to caution any reader from addressing 
 or asking a question of the man at the wheel ; 
 for the smallest distraction on his part from 
 his fixed attention to the course of the stream 
 might cause a deviation , and run the Vessel 
 on one of the many shoals which render the 
 steerage on this river so difficult , and oblige 
 the Helmsman to vary his course every moment. 
 
 In the night, profiting by my foresight, I 
 enjoyed some hours of sleep in my snug 
 corner; we arrived about eight o clock at 
 Linz , and each accompanied by a porter 
 directed his steps to the Hotel which he had 
 decided to patronize. 
 
 Instigated by the earnest persuasion of the 
 Steward, my friend and I went to the Rothen
 
 10 
 
 Krebs (Red Crab) on the banks of the river, 
 which altho, a second rate Hotel, we found 
 comfortable enough but somewhat dear. I 
 rather think that the bottle of wine I saw 
 the Steward enjoying with a friend in the 
 afternoon, was a bonus for recommending two 
 of his passengers to the Hotel, and for which, 
 we doubtless paid in some shape in our 
 reckoning. I was told by a fellow traveller who 
 had gone to the Erzherzog Carl (Archduke Char- 
 les), that the charges were very high, but the 
 situation very agreeable, and the accomodation 
 first rate. The Goldene Lowe (the Golden 
 Lion), was most favourably spoken of by others 
 as very comfortable , clean , and moderate. 
 Should it be my good fortune to revisit Linz, 
 I shall make a point of going there. 
 
 One day in my opinion is quite enough 
 for Linz, its charming situation on the banks 
 of the Danube being its chief attraction, altho, it 
 is certainly a fine town and a lively one. There 
 are some fortifications on a new principle, the 
 invention of the Prince Maximilian d'Este, well
 
 11 
 
 worth visiting I was afterwards told. In the 
 afternoon, my friend and I made an excursion 
 to a place called the Maddalena on the other 
 side of the river , to which we were con- 
 veyed by a carriage on the Train road, and 
 where we found an excellent cup of Coffee, 
 and a superb view of the Danube winding a 
 long way thro' the charming and extensive 
 valley beneath. I advise the Tourist to vary 
 the day by a similar trip, and to go to bed 
 early after paying his bill, (which we did not) 
 for the Train starts at six in the morning for 
 Gmunden, and he has need of repose after 
 passing the last night on the river.
 
 12 
 
 3*ic in iviu& bo Gamiidew cciid 
 
 Contrary to our strict injunctions to be 
 called early , the Porter knocked at each of 
 our doors in the morning to tell us that we 
 must be quick to save the first Train. The con- 
 sequence was , that we had but just time to 
 pay our bills without examining them, much to 
 the satisfaction of the head waiter, and hurry 
 off to the station which was at some distance. 
 The second bell had just been rung when we 
 arrived , and weighing and paying being ac- 
 complished, we took our places in the carriage 
 already on the move. My seat was comfortable 
 enough, and the motion on the rails, that uni- 
 form shaky rumbling to which we are all now
 
 13 
 
 accustomed ; but instead of tearing on in the 
 train of the hissing, spouting, infernal monster 
 in front, we followed two jaded hacks in a 
 slow jog trot through a long, straight , un- 
 interesting avenue of firs, I amused myself 
 by examining the bill I had just paid at the 
 Hotel , and it proved clearly enough, that the 
 waiter had remembered to forget his promise 
 to have us called early and in good time, for 
 I perceived that I had been charged for what 
 I had not had, and overcharged for what I had 
 had ; this manoeuvre of obliging strangers to 
 pay their bills in the hurry of departure, is 
 often employed in many other places besides 
 Linz by the cunning head waiters, who put 
 all the excess above the bona fide account 
 into their own pockets. 
 
 Sometime before reaching Lambach , we 
 came in view of the renowned Traunstein, 
 the first mountain that salutes us on en- 
 tering the Salzkammergut. — The well known 
 profile of Louis 16th. is at once to be re- 
 cognized, the head as it were reclining on its
 
 14 
 
 rocky pillow, and looking up into the Heavens. 
 The features are perfectly delineated, and cer- 
 tainly bear a striking resemblance to the por- 
 traits preserved of that unfortunate Monarchy 
 altho. a good friend of mine from our North, 
 who lives in the neighbourhood and had pas- 
 sed that way frequently, told me that he had 
 never been able to discover how, or in what 
 manner the likeness was to be traced. 
 
 My friend and I had taken our places 
 only as far as Lambach, that we might pay 
 our respects to the first Lion of the Salz- 
 kammergut . the celebrated Traunfalls. After 
 fortifying ourselves with a good breakfast 
 of most excellent Coffee and accompaniments, 
 at that comfortable Inn close to the station, 
 we took the Landlord's (disinterested of course) 
 advice in the shape of one of his open Vehicles 
 with two horses, and proceeded to the Falls. 
 Should any reader follow our example, which 
 for reasons hereafter given I advise him not 
 to do. let him request the Landlord not to 
 give the sleepy or rather sleeping Coachman:
 
 15 
 
 for the one who drove us swerved so continually 
 almost at right angles over his horses, then to 
 the right, and then to the left, that we feared he 
 would fall headlong from his seat, and so strong 
 was the propensity like that of the fat boy's 
 in the immortal Pickwick to fall asleep, that not 
 all my pokes, (some of them pretty hard ones) 
 with my stout walking stick could keep him 
 upright on his box. The Landlord who seemed 
 wide awake to Jarvey's napping inclinations 
 assured us on our return, that he would never 
 employ him again in the same capacity, but no 
 doubt when next turn was called , he was in 
 readiness, and is most likely at the Reader's 
 service at this moment. When at the Falls, we 
 had the mortification of seeing the Train pass 
 within a very short distance , and we after- 
 wards learnt that at Linz one can make ar- 
 rangements to be set clown near the Falls, and 
 be taken up by the next train, and taken on to 
 Gmunden without any extra charge ; so that by 
 making a few previous enquiries, we might ha- 
 ve saved our three florins, and the risk of being
 
 16 
 
 spilt into some ditch by our drowzy driver. 
 I confess I was much disappointed when I 
 first saw those much talked of Falls. I had 
 previously seen them represented in the 
 engravings at Vienna and Linz, on such a 
 foaming, roaring, grand scale, that the reality 
 fell far short of my expectations. Murray like- 
 wise compares them to the falls of the Rhine 
 „Parva componere magnis"! conjecture. But 
 altho , my anticipations may not have been 
 realized, and perhaps after having seen such 
 magnificent waterfalls in other parts of the 
 country I cannot do justice to the Traunfalls., 
 yet I would gladly revisit them, and I advise 
 all Tourists to go and judge for themselves. I 
 retain the recollection of a large volume of wa- 
 ter rushing over what we call weirs in England 
 into the foaming vortex beneath, but the fall 
 was not deep enough to excite those feelings of 
 awe and admiration with which one regards a 
 line torrent precipitating itself into a profound 
 far below. The water is of a beautiful colour and 
 the scenery around pretty and picturesque ;
 
 17 
 
 near the Falls there is a small Hotel, comfortable 
 enough in appearance, and where one can 
 while away an intervening half hour with knife 
 and fork, and no doubt upon some fine and very 
 fresh trout. Some Tourists reserve visiting the 
 Falls for an excursion from Gmunden , but I 
 heard several express their regret for having 
 thus lost their time and their money. 
 
 The country round Lamback is very char- 
 ming, and there must be some attraction in 
 the environs to induce so many to make a 
 halt there for a short time. It is at Lambach 
 we have the first view of the Traun, that 
 beautiful river we shall so often see in the 
 course of our route, winding its graceful way 
 through the deep verdant valley beneath, or 
 rushing by us with noisy rapidity when temp- 
 ted to stroll along its banks. 
 
 After leaving Lambach by the afternoon 
 Train it began to rain, and we were obliged 
 to draw the curtains; I could however see 
 from time to time, that the scenery was very 
 picturesque, and the view of the Traun often
 
 18 
 
 to be enjoyed. On arriving at Gmunden in the 
 evening, I was convoyed in the rain, and through 
 many a puddle, by a Porter to the Goldenen 
 Schiff (Golden Ship) at the head of the Lake. 
 The entrance to this Hotel struck me as any 
 thing but prepossessing, however every un- 
 favorable impression was at once removed, 
 when the view of that most beautiful Lake, 
 as seen from the window of the Chamber into 
 which I was shewn, presented itself for the 
 first time to my admiring gaze. I am not sur- 
 prized that many strangers should be tempted 
 to remain some days at Gmunden: the novelty 
 of the scene, the lively Quay, and above all 
 that charming Lake, are very attractive to a 
 new comer; but let me forewarn him, that on 
 penetrating into the wonderful country before 
 him, where there are so many interesting ob- 
 jects to be seen, and places to be visited, he 
 will regret having lost his time at Gmunden. 
 One day is quite enough, for should he stay 
 a month, that beautiful Traunsee will still be as 
 beautiful and attractive as ever. I advise him.

 
 19 
 
 to ascend the Calvarienberg, that high green 
 eminence behind the town , with its pretty 
 Temple or Church on the summit, and there 
 feast his eye as long as he pleases on that fine 
 expanse of water spread out so far below, 
 surrounded by the gigantic mountains ; and 
 turning round, dwell on that extensive range of 
 hill and dale of such beautiful verdure and va- 
 riety. Perhaps he will also see as I did, a nymph 
 dressed in white, with a large pastoral straw 
 hat and romantic ringlets, sitting on the green 
 turf with two dogs sleeping at her feet, and 
 intently reading some book. I had too much 
 respect for the high place and her alonetiness 
 (if I may say) , to intrude on her meditations, 
 and when I returned from veiwing the prospect 
 on the oilier side of the Church, she had altoge- 
 ther disappeared, and who or what she was 
 remains still a mystery; she could not have 
 been Diana, for her dogs were not of the 
 chase, one being a fine Newfoundland, and the 
 other if I recollect rightly was of the Pug 
 family.
 
 20 
 
 Certainly the environs of Gmunden are 
 very charming and no doubt afford many agree- 
 able excursions to those who choose it as a 
 temporary sojourn; but our object is to visit 
 the Salzkammergut. There is nothing in our 
 Hotel which should, or can tempt one to remain. 
 Its uncomfortable and intricate interior must 
 have been planned by some crazy architect. 
 There are a few rooms in the front comman- 
 ding fine views of the lake, and in which one 
 can take one's meals ; the dining room below 
 is a dark, low, common looking place , from 
 which one is driven in the evening by the 
 vulgar, noisy, smoking, spitting habitues who 
 congregate there. Further on I can pro- 
 mise my Reader , large , light , and well 
 arranged Salons , enlivened by the presence 
 of gay, well dressed, well behaved visitors 
 of both sexes, more to his taste I should 
 suppose. However in that same Salle one 
 dines well, as far as regards the gastrono- 
 mic requisites, for all the articles of food were 
 good, and the cuisine, according to my taste
 
 21 
 
 irreproachable. The fish called the Rhine Augen 
 is in my opinion very delicious, and is I believe 
 peculiar to the Lake, and I recommend the white 
 Voslauer wine to the notice of the Stranger. 
 The smiling young Landlady seems a very 
 good natured agreeable person, but that short 
 stout Landlord with his disagreable, disconten- 
 ted voice is a great Republican, and with that 
 sinister expression of countenance, one may be 
 sure he has a dexterous hand in helping him- 
 self when occasions serve, at all events, he is 
 a good hand at making out a bill, as I can te- 
 stify; and this reminds me to advise any tra- 
 veller who cares about his florins, to pay his 
 dinner bill instanter, according to the prices 
 marked on the Carte, in spite of Rosa's objec- 
 tions who will urge him to leave it for the 
 final reckoning. As to that same Rosa (I mean 
 the good looking girl with the white neck, and 
 white teeth) if she is still the waitress, don't 
 imagine that when she leans familiarly on your 
 shoulder, and looks at you with a fixed tender 
 regard, that she is smitten with your appearan-
 
 22 
 
 ce ; it is to tempt you to prolong" your stay, or 
 at all events to order another bottle. She is 
 only labouring in her vocation as a groocl ser- 
 vant, who has the interest of her Master at 
 heart and swelling their bills in veiw when 
 she flatters all new comers with seeming par- 
 tiality. I met on my route two young Cantabs, 
 one of whom fascinated by her caressing at- 
 tentions, appeared deeply smitten, and thought 
 that he had made a conquest, and expressed 
 his intention of returning home via Gmunden. 
 purposely to see her again. I trust his com- 
 panion succeeded in dissuading him from such 
 an absurdity, and that he is now safe in Eng- 
 land dwelling on diviner subjects than on such a 
 divinity as the waiting girl at Gmunden. On 
 calling for my bill. I was much surprized at the 
 amount charged to me as Speisen. (eating) but 
 it was vain to remonstrate, for it was as pos- 
 sible to separate the particles of food when 
 eaten, as to particularize the different articles 
 thus totalized in one general charge. But I 
 learnt the lesson , always to pay my dinner
 
 23 
 
 hill at the moment whilst the items were 
 fresh in my memory i, and thus affording no 
 opportunity for the waiter to score me ad 
 libitum. 
 
 The hours sail across the lake with such sce- 
 nery on every side, is a great treat for the Tou- 
 rist. The cleanliness, comfort and convenience 
 of the pretty Sophie will assure him that she 
 is commanded by a Countryman, and as soon 
 as he sees the fine, jolly looking Captain, he 
 will pronounce him to be what he is , one of 
 the best and worthiest of good fellows. 
 
 The turn round the Traunkirchen is ex- 
 quisite, and equals any thing on the Rhine; 
 and immediately one comes in view ofEbensee, 
 with its fine extensive evaporating buildings, 
 and those lofty mountains towering to the 
 skies* Here one enters into the Salzkammer- 
 gut. The good Captain is amiable to the last 
 moment. Instead of the bluff peremptory com- 
 mand „ Stop her" which we are accustomed 
 to hear in the ports of the Channel, two soste- 
 nuto descending tones an octave apart, kindly
 
 24 
 
 intreats the man below to „Stop her." An Om- 
 nibus is in waiting to take us on to Ischl., and 
 through a most beautiful valley by the side of 
 the Traun, and a range of Mountains clothed to 
 their summit with verdure we pass gently on 
 in two hours to Ischl. When the view of that 
 magnificent Amphitheatre of Mountains sur- 
 rounding the valley in which Ischl is placed 
 burst on my sight, I said to myself ..AH right" 
 and drove up with gleeful anticipations to the 
 Poste Hotel.
 
 25 
 
 b. Vro Lmaii/Oj 
 
 1 shall say very little at present of my 
 first impressions at Ischl , having remained 
 there but an hour or two on this my first visit ; 
 but a very short interview with Nature array- 
 ed in such charms as appeared all around, 
 sufficiently assured me of the many enjoyments 
 she had in store for me when more intimate- 
 ly acquainted. I was anxious to proceed as 
 soon as possible to St. Wolfgang, not merely 
 impelled by the curiosity and impatience which 
 most strangers feel on their first arrival to see 
 the celebrated Lake of that name, but to rejoin 
 my friend, who had preceded me to visit a 
 family then residing at their Chateau on the bor-
 
 26 
 
 ders of the Wolfgang See. However my im- 
 patience was not so great as to induce me to 
 leave Ischl with an empty stomach. — A dish 
 of Forrellen (Trout) with salad, and an excel- 
 lent Cotelette withErbsen (green peas), washed 
 down with a glass of capital beer, and a halbe 
 Flasche Weill, soon filled up the void, and I 
 mounted into my open carriage which had been 
 in the interim procured for me by Franz the 
 head waiter, and rattled away right merrily to 
 St. Wolfgang. 
 
 The first part of the road after leaving the 
 town on the left bank of the river Ischl. is 
 very pretly and interesting, soon after on tur- 
 ning over the bridge on the right, you lose 
 sight of the river in a great measure, but still 
 you have a fine verdant valley to pass through, 
 and mountains varying in form and dimension 
 on every side. If you wish to know the name 
 of any particular mountain, ask Kutcher (coach- 
 man) for he knows them all. If by good 
 chance you have the youngest Driver from 
 the Anchor at Ischl. vou will have a very
 
 27 
 intelligent and accommodating fellow; of course 
 you will have seen by the Tariff that one Span- 
 ning (Horse) is much cheaper than two, and 
 is quite sufficient for one or two persons, un- 
 less you wish to act Milord, which is very 
 troublesome as well as expensive in this coun- 
 try. On alighting at the white Horse Hotel at 
 the bottom of the steep hill at St. Wolfgang, 
 I found a chamber already prepared for me, 
 and on sending my card to the Schloss (castle), 
 my friend soon made his appearance without 
 his hat , thereby indicating that I must not 
 keep him waiting , but proceed with him 
 without parleying to be presented to his friends, 
 by whom I was most kindly received. 
 
 Every Visitor to Ischl well knows the Schloss 
 at St. Wolfgang inhabited during the summer 
 months by its Propietor Mr. Grohman, the Ban- 
 ker at Vienna, and likewise the very beautiful 
 Garden , which, from its elevated and com- 
 manding situation, was formerly a Calvary, 
 and now by a natural transition become a 
 Paradise, into which all comers are free and
 
 28 
 
 welcome to enter; and such is the curiosi- 
 ty and admiration these Gardens excite* 
 that I have seen seven or eight carriages 
 (some of them Royal) in waiting for the 
 parties they had brought to visit them. Indeed 
 the hand of Nature and the fine taste of man 
 have combined to render this spot another 
 Eden : that table-like eminence seems to have 
 been raised up by the One, as a platform 
 from whence to survey her lovely creation 
 around: and that verdant space so tastefully 
 laid out with its diversified walks, shrubbe- 
 vies dec. all kept in the most perfect order, 
 evidence the horticultural genius of the worthy 
 Proprietor. To enjoy fully the enchanting sce- 
 nery around, there are many rustic seats and 
 chairs placed in bower, grotto, arbour or 
 temple, which seem to rival each other in 
 their attractive invitations to enter, and from 
 each there is a very fine view of the Lake 
 spread out longitudinally as far as the eye 
 can reach. The distant opposite borders so 
 verdant and picturesque, add much to the
 
 29 
 
 beauty of the prospect, and the lofty range 
 of Mountains beyond, renders the coup d'oeil 
 perfect. From this Garden the famous old 
 Schafberg is seen in all its grandeur, the line 
 of whose summit forms a most interesting 
 feature in the landscape 3 and on which the 
 eye rests with a longing regard, as the sum- 
 mit of one's ambition to reach. Every visitor 
 to this favored spot must be struck with the 
 brilliant hues of those beautiful choice, flowers, 
 which spread themselves out so luxuriantly 
 throughout the Garden, and which owe no 
 doubt their peculiar bloom and fragrance, to 
 the tending care of the amiable Mistress of the 
 place. There is a particularly fine group of old 
 trees on the verge of that beautiful terrace, 
 which really appear coeval with the soil, but 
 still preserving a most luxuriant foliage, and 
 under the shade of these trees there is a 
 characterestic seat, on which I often rested 
 until very late ; one evening I distinctly heard 
 a conversation between two fishermen in their 
 boat far out upon the Lake. I was afterwards
 
 30 
 
 told that this was not at all remarkable, owing 
 to the purity of the air. 
 
 The fine Schloss inhabited by the family 
 was formerly an Abbey, belonging I believe 
 to the Benedictine order, and was for some 
 days the refuge of the Emperor Leopold in 
 1683 , when Vienna was. besieged by the 
 Turks. In going to the Garden you pass through 
 a fine Cloister, and the doors you see to the 
 left, open to chambers most comfortably, and 
 some of them beautifully fitted up. with fine 
 pannelled oak ceilings and wainscotting. and 
 corresponding furniture, the carving on which, 
 displays the cunning workmanship of some v 
 clever Artisls of former days, and the taste 
 and splendor of the ancient Possessors. The 
 family occupy the storey above . consisting 
 of a suite of fine lofty apartments . where I 
 often partook of the hospitality of the esti- 
 mable Owner and his polished and most 
 amiable Lady ; the happy circle sometimes 
 increased by the presence of their son, a tall 
 manly looking fellow, with his very beauti-
 
 31 
 
 ful wife, a Countrywoman of ours I am proud 
 to say, and who live at a pretty Place about 
 a mile from St. Wolfgang. 
 
 The little town of St. Wolfgang is a 
 straggling sort of place, and not in character 
 with its envirous. The Hotel is in a dull, low 
 situation, and not at all alluring in its out- 
 ward appearance, yet I passed upwards of a 
 week there most comfortably and agreably. 
 Mine Host and his wife were so attentive 
 and obliging, my nice breakfast of such ex- 
 cellent Coffe and good etceteras, and for my 
 dinner Fish so fresh and well dressed ; a 
 Cotelette worthy of Ude, with capital beer 
 and wine, my clean and comfortable Cham- 
 ber, all these agremens combined with my 
 contiguity to the Schloss, to render me in- 
 disposed to depart. — Indeed this said White 
 Horse Hotel may be well recommended for 
 a temporary sojourn, and as a point of de- 
 parture to many objects and places of attrac- 
 tion in the immediate neighbourhood. Primo, 
 it is by far the nearest and most convenient
 
 32 
 
 spot to start from for the ascent of the Schaf- 
 berg, which no traveller possessing vigour or 
 perseverance will fail to make, if he has any 
 regard for his reputation as an enterprizing and 
 courageous Tourist, or any earnest desire of 
 enjoying a most wonderful survey of the 
 world he is in. To the infirm or indolent and 
 to the fair sex there are facilities offered, which 
 remove at once all difficulties and objections. 
 For eight florins, you are conveyed in an easy 
 chair to the very summit, and down again 
 to your easy Chair in your room. For one 
 person four porters are required , who take 
 their turns two at a time, but altho the ascent 
 in some places is so steep as to require great 
 exertion of their strengh. yet those fellows 
 make nothing of it, and heavy as you may 
 be , make light of you. Instead of taking 
 their turns with reluctance , quite the con- 
 trary ; they resume Iheir places with ala- 
 crity, and with an apparent preference of 
 the honor of carriying you to walking un- 
 employed. Yet I should suppose they would
 
 33 
 
 rather have the pleasure of taking up that 
 young Lady with the slender form, than her 
 Hu.-^fnd or Brother of sixteen Stone. Before 
 deciding upon the ascent, some precautions 
 are necessary, with respect to the weather, 
 and time of the year; nOr should the Stranger 
 however young, agile, and adventurous attempt 
 it without a Guide, for sometimes the fogs arise 
 suddenly, and there would be great danger in 
 being alone and unacquainted with the paths 
 and turnings, especially in descending. Also 
 in unfavorable weather, supposing the sum- 
 mit gained, there would be nothing else gained 
 to repay one for so much fatigue and exer- 
 tion, for the world below is enveloped in 
 mist and obscurity, to say nothing of the dif- 
 ficult and slippery descent. In the next place, 
 the mind must be made up to remain all the 
 night on the summit, if we would enjoy one 
 of the principal anticipations which urge on 
 those who climb the sleep ascent, I mean the 
 setting, and especially the rising of the Sun. 
 When all fatigues and difficulties are sur-
 
 34 
 
 mounted, and you have reached the top, it is 
 extremely agreeable to find a resting place, 
 and especially a shelter for the night, however 
 short the night, and rude the shelter. For 
 these comforts , the New Arrivals have to 
 thank the Landlord of the White Horse below, 
 who has established himself Landlord above, 
 far out of reach of Supervisors or licensing 
 Magistrates I should suppose. The Hotel he 
 has here constructed is not on a grand scale, 
 but in that substantial Hut it is much better to 
 sleep, than making your bed on the cold 
 ground. There are beds for eight, and to en- 
 sure one, it is necessary to be provided with 
 a ticket, which is given at the White Horse, 
 and for which you pay 30 Croitzers. Altho' 
 one always finds on the Mountain, Coffee, 
 Bread. Saucisson, Cheese, Wine etc, yet I 
 would advise every one to order something 
 substantial according to his taste, to be car- 
 ried up by the Guide, or one of the Por- 
 ters, for one arrives on the summit pretty 
 hungry, and the air there is very keen and
 
 35 
 
 appetizing. Sometimes one meets pleasant 
 parties on that high Eminence, and of course 
 there can be no other alternative but to be- 
 come sociable. I met a young Englishman at 
 Ischl, who from some words which escaped 
 him, had not long before made first acquain- 
 tance with his intended Wife in that Hut; 
 but they say that marriages are made in the 
 Heavens. It is only during the three months 
 of July, August, and September, that open 
 house is kept on the mountain, then the Land- 
 lord descends from his exalted position, and 
 for the remainder of the year, the Eagles 
 reign Lords paramount. Before setting out, 
 it is well to be provided with a stout walking 
 stick, or a staff well spiked, which they will 
 give you at the Hotel, and very useful in 
 Mountain excursions. Regard well also the so- 
 lidity of your boots or shoes, and if you take 
 up a good telescope, your enjoyment of 
 the scene below will be much increased. 
 Let your Guide also carry an additional light 
 coat, if you happen to have one, for the sharp
 
 36 
 
 air on the summit is apt to check the perspi- 
 ration excited by the laborious ascent For 
 the young and active, about three hours and 
 a half are sufficient for the ascent, but if not 
 pressed for time, I advise every one to take 
 it easily. It is better to leave St. Wolfgang 
 about three in the afternoon, for then you 
 reach the top in good time to enjoy the Sun- 
 set. At all the pieture shops, they sell a 
 small Panorama for ten Croitzers, which will 
 be found very useful, and will enable the 
 spectator to ascertain the name and position 
 of each Lake, and also the name of the most 
 conspicuous Mountains, among the infinite 
 number which present themselves on all 
 sides to your view. With a good glass on 
 a clear day, one can see the distant To- 
 wers of Munich and Ratisbon; but it would 
 be impossible to particularize the number- 
 less attractions of the wonderful Panora- 
 ma around. But the Visitor must not let the 
 fatigue of the preceding day prevent him from 
 rising before the dawu commences, for it is
 
 37 
 
 the first glimmering approach, and the gra- 
 dual increase of light which ushers in Aurora., 
 and the receding shades of darkness, by de- 
 grees withdrawing the veil which covers the 
 face of Nature , which form the wonderful 
 beauty of that most glorious Spectacle, and 
 which must impress every rational mind with 
 feelings of awe, and grateful adoration towards 
 the Almighty Creator who called such a 
 beautiful world out of darkness, and gave it 
 to us for our habitation. The Church at St. 
 Wolfgang is very interesting in itself, and as 
 so connected with the life of the holy man 
 the canonized Bishop of that name. He was 
 Bishop of Ratisbon in the 10th Century, 
 who, to escape from the almost idolatrous 
 worship of the people, fled from his Bishopric, 
 and took refuge in the then wild country 
 bordering the Lake. He erected a Chapel, and 
 made himself a Cell at Frankenstein, where 
 he lived an Anchorite five years. His piety 
 soon attracted Pilgrims, of whom there came 
 annually twelve thousand to receive his bene-
 
 38 
 
 diction. Being recognized by a Mountaineer, 
 he was prevailed upon to return to Ratisbon 
 where he died. About a century after his 
 death, they erected a Church to his memory, 
 which was destroyed by tire in 1420, and 
 replaced by the present Church, the interior 
 of which is very fine as well as interesting, 
 particularly the altar, a beautiful piece of work- 
 manship by a Sculptor in wood named Michael 
 Packer a Tyrolean Artist, and a scholar of 
 Albert Durer. Besides other Altars, they shew 
 you the Missal, the Cross and Chalice of the 
 Saint, and his Cell enclosed with an iron gra- 
 ting. On the Sunday I heard some excellent 
 music, but I could not help remarking the 
 extraordinary plainess of the female peasant part 
 of the congregation, and the premature shri- 
 velled appearance of their tawney skin. Their 
 shapes too, were most frightfully disfigured by 
 those hideous brown stuff spencers which they 
 all wear, and which give them the appearance 
 of being hump backed, or at least of being very 
 round shouldered. I suppose some chilly Fa-
 
 39 
 
 shionable of that class, having desired her 
 milliner to well stuff her spencer to protect 
 her from the cold, was followed by a host of 
 imitators, each rivalling the other in the quantity 
 of padding about the shoulders, and which, even 
 in the summer heat they do not abandon. 
 However I must say, that the coquetteries of 
 their toilette did not distract their attention 
 from their religions duties, for I never saw 
 a more attentive Congregation , and which 
 indeed is the case throughout Austria, as far 
 as I have seen. In the vicinity of St. Wolf- 
 gang, there are three other Lakes well worth 
 visiting, should the Tourist have time, and in- 
 clination to see all. The Schwarzen See (Black 
 Lake), so called from the dark appearance of 
 its water, and very interesting on account of 
 its solitary and elevated situation, but very 
 fatiguing to ascend, and very disagreeable to 
 descend, especially after wet weather. Next 
 the Attersee, the largest of all the Lakes, on 
 the borders of which there is a very good 
 Hotel at Weissenbach, where one dines well,
 
 40 
 
 and sleeps comfortably. Then the Mondsee. 
 across which one sails to visit the town of 
 that name, the Church of which is the finest 
 in this country after the celebrated Dom at 
 Salzburg. An agreeable excursion may be made 
 to these two Lakes by leaving St. Wolfgang 
 early in the morning with a boat and a couple 
 of rowers. In about three quarters of an 
 hour you arrive opposite the rock at Falken- 
 steim where there is an extraordinary Echo, 
 which repeats words and even phrases several 
 times. If you are provided with a pistol, you 
 will be much struck with the report it makes, 
 or with a Cornet a piston, producing the effect 
 of a concert. Then a most charming sail to 
 the farthest extremity of the lake takes you to 
 Fierberg where you land, and if hungry will 
 find some excellent fish. A walk of about an 
 hour will bring you to Schaerfling on the 
 borders of the Mondsee. where you take boat 
 to Au, from whence there is a path by the 
 side of the Canal to Unterrach, where you 
 embark for the Hotel at Weissenbach before
 
 41 
 
 mentioned. If you wish to visit the town of 
 Mondsee, or to loiter at any intervening spot, 
 you can dismiss your boat when you reach 
 Fierberg, and from Schaerfling you have a 
 picturesque way to St. Gilgen, and after ex- 
 ploring the beauties of that Place, you can 
 return to Ischl by the direct post road, or 
 cross the lake again to St. Wolfgang. There 
 is also a very interesting walk of about an 
 hour and a half, thro' a silent shady forest to 
 the rock of Falkenstein, where one sees the 
 Hermitage, and the cavern which St. Wolfgang 
 inhabited, also many chapels, one of which 
 is called the Kreuzkapelle (Chapel of the Cross), 
 and surrounded by an immense quantity of 
 stones, brought from time to time by pilgrims 
 and devotees, with the superstitions expec- 
 tation that when there is a sufficiency, a 
 Church will arise without the aid of human 
 hands. Altho the accumulation is at present 
 great enough to build two Churches, yet the de- 
 votees persevere in their belief, and in their con- 
 tributions towards the miraculous construction.
 
 42 
 
 Rcdhlccdb. 
 
 Altho it was with regret I quitted Si 
 Wolfgang* yet it was not with regret I found 
 myself once more alighting at the Poste Hotel 
 at Ischl, where I was most hospitably welco- 
 med. The Chamber into which I was shewn 
 commanded a fine view of the Mountains, and 
 on the back ground, the snowy head of the 
 celebrated old Dachstein the presiding moun- 
 tain of the Ischl district, was to be distinctly 
 seen. On my remonstrating with the waiter 
 about the price of the room; "Yes Sir,, he re- 
 plied, but you have a veiw of the Dachstein 
 from it. Out of respect to the mountain. I did 
 not resist the ten Croitzers charged to his
 
 43 
 
 account, and having some Letters to answer, 
 my correspondents were in some measure 
 indebted to the said Dachstein, who tempted 
 me to remain in my room to write to them. 
 The next day passed in reconnoitring the 
 attractions of Ischl, which I reserve as a bonne 
 bouchee for a later period. But one discovery 
 I made of a great enjoyment, I will not 
 delay disclosing to my Reader a single hour, 
 and of which he may partake in his short 
 comings and goings to and from Ischl. The 
 morning after my arrival, I was informed 
 (I well not say by whom, for I promised Mr. 
 Boots never to betray him, nor will I), that 
 few of the Visitors breakfasted at the Hotel, 
 but at a charming place called the Smallnau 
 a short distance from Ischl. Following the 
 directions given me, I turned down opposite 
 the Theatre, and on the left, the long Bridge 
 appeared, at the end of which I found the 
 direction post "FusswegzurSmallnau„, the in- 
 dex pointing to a gravel walk leading up a 
 slope, to what appeared a plantation at the
 
 44 
 
 foot of a high mountain behind. Following 
 this walk up the ascent, I came to the en- 
 trance of a very pretty Garden (or rather 
 Orchard orne, for the trees were apple) thickly 
 planted , and underneath narrow walks thro 
 the green turf leading to various little Tem- 
 ples, or to tables placed under the shade of 
 the trees. Seeing many parties comfortably 
 established at breakfast, I followed their good 
 example, and was soon supplied by a com- 
 fortable looking Waitress with my portion of 
 most excellent Coffee with Obers. (you must 
 discover what Obers is, by tasting it), the 
 whitest bread, and the freshest butter which 
 those fine animals grazing in the meadow 
 below, had given the wherewithal to make. 
 The charge for a very good breakfast was 
 only 17 Cr. To my demand: "Haben sie eine 
 Zeitung?., (have you a newspaper?) Ja. mein 
 Herr she replied, and the good Marie soon 
 returned holding out what? nothing less than 
 a new. fresh, nay almost damp Galignani, 
 arrived that very morning post haste from
 
 45 
 
 Rue St. Vivienne, after a journey of only five 
 days. My Reader may judge of my gratifica- 
 tion in finding the Englishman's hest friend 
 and resource abroad so unexpectedly; a 
 gratification I am sorry to say, not often to 
 be enjoyed in this part of the world, and 
 for which I would at any time have spared 
 two or three of the highest Mountains. After 
 spelling my newspaper, and the Debats likewise, 
 and exploring some of the walks, strolling 
 thro' the town, and dining, I returned with 
 my friend to take our tea and pass the eve- 
 ning at the Smallnau. We then and there 
 decided to visit the next day the Lake of 
 Hallstadt, so celebrated for its solitary gran- 
 deur, and the charming melancholy it inspires, 
 as we were told by a fair Lady at St. Wolf- 
 gang. Early next morning after taking our 
 Melange and Kipfel at the Cafe opposite the 
 Hotel, we proceeded in our one horse carriage 
 towards Hallstadt; our Driver was the same 
 good fellow as before, and took us by the 
 longest, but by far the most agreeable route on
 
 46 
 
 the right bank of the Traun , thro a pretty 
 plantation shady and cool, called the Kaiser Fer- 
 dinand's Morgen Weg, it having been con- 
 structed by that Emperor, and where he 
 constantly enjoyed his morning walk. We 
 soon arrive at the top of a very steep short 
 descent in veiw of Laufen, that little Town 
 in the charming valley below, thro* which 
 the Traun runs so rapidly as to give its 
 name (Laufen in German signifies to run) 
 Further on we come to Goisern , a large 
 Village with its huge Protestant Church, or 
 rather overgrown Dissenting looking Chapel 
 on the right, the inhabitants being for the 
 most part Protestants, as their fathers have 
 been for ages* On, on, thro' the valley till we 
 come to a fine bridge over the Traun. just where 
 it issues from the Hallstadt Lake, Here, at the place 
 called Steg. you can embark for Hallstadt, but 
 most visitors prefer going on in their car- 
 riage by the side of the Lake to the Go- 
 sau Mtthle, thereby saving much of their time. 
 At the Gosau Mtilile all road ends, and the
 
 n;
 
 47 
 
 only way of reaching Hallstadt is by water, 
 for which purpose there are large good boats 
 always kept in readiness. There is certainly 
 a foot path by the side of the Mountain , but 
 very fatiguing, and also one loses the ro*- 
 mantic and interesting appearance of Hallstadt, 
 when first we come in view of it, on turning 
 round the point projecting into the Lake, cal- 
 led the Gosauhalls. Nothing can be more 
 strikingly picturesqne and strange to the view 
 than those solemn, spectral looking Houses, 
 hanging over the verge of the still water, 
 and seeming mysteriously attached to the deep 
 base of those stupendous Mountains ; and the 
 nearer one approaches, the more one is sur- 
 prized to find such a dismal out of the world 
 place willingly inhabited. Yet on landing at 
 the Eisen - Mann we found a very com- 
 fortable Hotel, aud smiling contented faces 
 about us. There are two other Hotels of 
 good reputation further on, but the Eisen- 
 Mann being the nearest, our Lady rowers took 
 us there to save themselves a few extra strokes
 
 48 
 
 of the oar. However uninviting the inte- 
 rior of the town appeared, we lost no time in 
 exploring it, hut not arm in arm. or abreast, 
 but one by one. thro' the narrow passages, or 
 galleries which lead through the Place, and 
 I recollect that I was much incommoded by 
 the smoke which issued from the chimnies 
 immediately under us. and down which we 
 could almost look. If. when the Sun shone 
 bright in the middle of Summer, one shuddered 
 at the idea of such a place for a perpetual 
 home, what would one's feelings be in the 
 dreary season of Winter, when for four months 
 the Sun is altogether hidden from the town 
 by the high mountains, and only a dim re- 
 flected light serves to divide the day from 
 the night. I think that I should prefer the 
 Polar darkness with its interesting phenomena 
 to the dull monotony and "darkness visible,, of 
 this dismal region. However, we judge by 
 contrast, happily for them, few of the inha- 
 bitants quit their homes, and therefore are 
 not aware of their deprivations, and that
 
 49 
 
 ought to be miserable and discontented. In pas- 
 sing thro' the narrow Alleys, I did not ob- 
 serve any particular expression of melan- 
 choly in the countenances of those I met, 
 possibly they were not hungry, and had their 
 provision of food for the morrow. The People 
 are almost all employed in the Salt works, 
 and gain a sure but scanty maintenance. The 
 Miners work for a certain number of hours 
 by turns; for the human frame and constitu- 
 tion could not endure for a long continuance, 
 the hard labour and excessive cold in those 
 chambers in the earth, darker than night. 
 
 At Hallstadt my friend and I separated, 
 each to follow the course of his inclination, 
 arranging to meet at dinner, and give an 
 account of our adventures. He ran up the 
 mountain to visit Rudolphs Tower, and the 
 Salt mines, and I sauntered down thro' the 
 valley to Waldbach Strub Waterfall. On my 
 way through the Town, I heard the sound 
 of falling water, and directing my steps to 
 the quarter whence it proceeded, I came in
 
 50 
 
 sight of a very pretty Cascade of no great 
 volume of water, falling perpendicularly down 
 a great height from a rock above. This Cas- 
 cade in many other parts of the World would 
 be deemed a great attraction, and would make 
 the fortune of an Hotel near it, but which is 
 here seen by chance by the casual Stranger. 
 But we are going to see a Cascade in the 
 Country, of great reputation, and which exacts 
 a long walk thro' the valley, and a laborious 
 pull high up through the forest before it 
 appears in view, altho' for some time the 
 ear has been gratified by the Music of the 
 Fall. But when at length the upper Gallery is 
 attained, and the Spectator stands in front of 
 that roaring torrent rushing madly over the 
 precipice into the foaming gulf far below, 
 he will think all his labour and fatigue 
 well repaid by the magnificent spectacle 
 before him. The scenery around is beauti- 
 fully wild and of that character generally 
 found near a Waterfall. I scarcely recollect 
 from which point this Fall is seen to the
 
 51 
 
 greatest advantage. From the upper Gallery 
 one sees the precipitous Falls, (for there are 
 two) and from the lowest bridge, there is a 
 very fine view of the torrent rushing down 
 in a sheet of foam a long way thro' the 
 chasm it has forced in the rocky Mountain. 
 It was with reluctance I quitted the sublime 
 scene, and was returning with "lingering 
 steps and slow" to my Hotel, when there 
 came out from a cottage near the Falls a 
 hideous Ideot, with immense head and matted 
 long hair, gibbering frightfully, and who fol- 
 lowed me some way; my Reader may be sure 
 that I quickened my pace. I know not whether 
 it was one of those Cretins which are too 
 often to be met with in these gloomy regions, 
 for I naturally avoided looking at such an 
 awful specimen of the Human form. On my 
 arrival at mine Inn, I found my friend im- 
 patiently waiting dinner for me. During my 
 stroll to the Falls, he had not only mounted 
 to Rudolph's Tower 1300 feet above Hallstadl, 
 and examined all its curiosities , but had
 
 52 
 
 ascended 500 feet still higher , and had plun- 
 ged into the bowels of the Salzberg, and vi- 
 sited many Chambers of the Salt mines. A feat 
 so soon accomplished I should not have dee- 
 med possible, had not the said Antonio C-ch-ni 
 brought down ample proofs, in the shape of 
 specimens, books, and petrifactions, furnished 
 him by the Bergmeister who lives in the 
 Tower. This Rudolph's Tower was built by the 
 Emperor Albert about A-D 1280, as a defence 
 against the attacks of those fighting fellows the 
 Archbishops of Salzburg, who possessing the 
 Salt mines at Hallein , wished to preserve 
 the monopoly of such a lucrative article, and 
 attempted by force to prevent the working of 
 the mines at Hallstadt. About three years ago, 
 in piercing the side of the Mountain to obtain 
 sand or gravel for the roads, the pickaxe 
 struck against something hard , which proved 
 to be a human skull, and on continuing to dig, 
 they came to a number of Tombs, each con- 
 taining a perfect skeleton , some of them 
 measuring upwards of seven feet, and also
 
 53 
 
 different ornaments, utensils &c. They have 
 discovered forty Tombs, and the search is still 
 continued. Various conjectures have been 
 broached as to origin of these Tombs, there 
 having been as yet, no inscription found to aid 
 the researches of the Antiquarian. A Vase has 
 been dug out, round which are engraved 
 several Suns, and Dolphins. The Bergmeister 
 preserves all these objects with great care, 
 and in great order, also a numerous collection 
 of petrifactions , very rich in specimens of 
 ammonites <fcc. My friend described the Salt 
 chambers as dreadfully cold, 5 degrees below 
 the zero of Reaumur, and was very glad to 
 get out of them, as all are I should conceive 
 who visit them. We did not fail to do justice 
 to the excellent dinner they gave us, consisting 
 of several kinds of fish very well dressed, 
 besides the tempting Cotolette (fee, nor to the 
 very good wine, of which if I recollect rightly 
 we took a glass or two extra , my friend 
 pleading as his excuse the cold he had en- 
 dured in the Salt mine , and I, the dampness
 
 54 
 
 occasioned by the spray of the Waterfall, and 
 the frightful sight of the Cretin. In the evening 
 we amused ourselves with looking over the 
 Fremden-Buch (Strangers book), which con- 
 tained some droll entries. The most part was 
 written in the to me indecipherable German 
 character, and from the disposition of the lines 
 appeared to be poetry, no doubt the rhapso- 
 dical effusion of some long-haired, travelling 
 German Artists, inspired by the good beer they 
 were drinking. A French lady writes about 
 the silent solemnity of the surrounding scenery, 
 the stillnes of the dark waters, the towering 
 Majesty of the awful mountains , being in 
 unison with the yearnings' of her soul, which 
 pants to emancipate itself from the frail form 
 in which it is incorporated, and to mingle with 
 the kindered spirits hovering round. This frail 
 form has in all probability made such a dinner 
 as none but a Frenchwoman can make, and is 
 bursting from repletion. I trust her Husband 
 recommended her to unlace her corset. The 
 English visitors express themselves nearly all
 
 55 
 
 in the same terms in all the Fremden hooks I 
 met with "Mr. and Mrs. Christopher Smith are 
 perfectly satisfied with the treatment they have 
 received, and recommend the Hotel for its 
 comfort, cleanliness, and civility.''' One entry 
 amused us much; it said, a Party of Englishmen 
 dining here to day, were much surprized to 
 see a large dish of floating mustard set hefore 
 them, and on expressing their disgust to the 
 Waiter, he said, that one of the party had 
 ordered it. This puzzled them extremely, as 
 each disclaimed a taste for Mustard per se, 
 and especially foreign Mustard. At last , one 
 of the Party bethought himself that he had 
 asked for Cerf^ supposing it meant venison, 
 and which the waiter not understanding French 
 imagined must he senf^ the German word for 
 Mustard. As nothing is thought abroad too 
 outre for an Englishman to eat, as well as to 
 do, the dish was prepared and sent to table. 
 How the poor Cook must have inwardly re- 
 volted at English taste, whilst superintending 
 such an abomination. These and many other
 
 56 
 
 curious emanations , and possibly the extra 
 glass or glasses of the good wine, indisposed 
 us for the enjoyment of the charming melan- 
 choly promised us by the fair Lady at St. 
 Wolfgang, and in spite of that sombre Lake 
 of Avernus under our windows, and the long 
 antiquated, quaint looking Room, at the dark 
 end of which the solemn faced Son of his 
 mother the Landlady would persist in standing 
 in attendance, we passed a very merry evening. 
 The next morning the Sun shone bright, 
 and we were obliged to depart early, as my 
 friend had promised to return to St. Wolfgang 
 to dinner. But we did not leave Hallstadt 
 without visiting the Church, which we reached 
 on mounting a staircase, up thro' a curious 
 Tunnel we saw in passing. The Interior of 
 this Church, is very interesting, and contains 
 another of those Altar Peices sculptured in 
 wood . (like that at St. Wolfgangs) the work 
 of an Artist of the fifteenth century named 
 Leonard Astel. From the terrace round the 
 Church, which is built on a projecting rock,
 
 57 
 
 the Lake beneath is seen in all its solemn 
 beauty, and those magnificent Mountains re- 
 sing from it almost perpendicularly some 
 6000 feet. On this terrace one always finds 
 in fine weather, some of the old inhabitants, 
 who come up there to gossip, and to warm 
 themselves by the heat of the Summer Sun, 
 and who are very happy to tell any stranger 
 the name, and height of the different Moun- 
 tains, and to them I beg to refer any curious 
 reader for information on those points. 
 
 After paying our reckoning which was 
 very moderate , we were attended to our 
 boat by the smiling fat Ladlady, and her long 
 faced, bowing Son and Heir, and were rowed 
 by two ladies of the lake to our landing 
 place at the Gosau Miihle. During our voyage, 
 our attentions to them were taken off by the 
 wonder and admiration excited by those tun- 
 nels seen high up, skirting the ribs of the 
 Mountains, and serving to convey the brine 
 made in the Chambers of the Salzberg , to 
 the evaporating Houses at Ischl and Ebensee.
 
 58 
 
 At the Gosau Mtihle we found our Chariot 
 and One waiting for us, as we had appointed, 
 but wishing to visit that stupendous Aqueduct 
 one sees in the air. connecting those high 
 Mountains separated by the deep valley bet- 
 ween, we walked forward, ordering our Equi- 
 page to follow. On arriving at the Gosau- 
 zwang as it is called, my friend skipped up 
 to the aerial bridge, as if animated by the 
 music of the hand organ, but I reserved my 
 breath for mounting operations at a later pe- 
 riod. When viewed from below, he appeared 
 on the Aqueduct like a little Automaton, and 
 on descending, he told me that my bulk was 
 much reduced, when seen from above. His 
 short and rapid survey made the Bridge to 
 be 420 feet in lenglh, and the height of the 
 middle pier of which there are seven, to be 
 108 feet. A simple, uneducated Miner was the 
 Constructor of this stupendous piece of Archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 Our horse in haste to get home to his 
 hay took us swiftly thro' the valley, and we
 
 59 
 
 were soon set clown at our Hotel, delighted 
 with our excursion. My friend went on to 
 St. Wolfgang* and I after dinner, went up 
 to Smallnau, to my tea and Galignani.
 
 60 
 
 Scdzbiixxi 
 
 I am about to fly off from the attractive 
 Circle round IschL to take an elliptical direc- 
 tion, but I do not expect my Reader to follow 
 my eccentric example. He \vill be naturally 
 desirous to see all that is worth seeing in 
 the environs of Ischl before leaving it. He 
 has yet to visit the Gosau Lake, so interesting 
 from its vicinity to Dachstein , and for its 
 romantic situation, and solitary character, and 
 then Ausee, so deserving the praises lavished 
 on its attractions by all who visited it. I went 
 to those places laler. and the Reader will find 
 them noticed in the routine of my excursion. 
 But I would here recommend any Tourist who
 
 61 
 
 may wish to save his time, to adopt the fol- 
 lowing plan of visiting those places, First; go 
 early in the morning and see Gosau, and on 
 his return to Gosau Miihle, dismiss his carriage 
 and take boat to Hallstadt and sleep there ; the 
 next afternoon cross over the Lake to Ober- 
 traun, from whence there is a very agreeable 
 altho long walk to Aussee, where at the Poste 
 Hotel, he will find very comfortable accommo- 
 dation; the next day, he will have time to 
 visit the Grundel See, and Alten Aussee , two 
 charming walks, and in the afternoon at half 
 past five, the Malle poste will take him on to 
 Ischl, and set him down close to his Hotel, 
 having seen three of the principal objects of 
 attraction in the three days of his absence. 
 
 The evening after my return from Hall- 
 stadt, I had the satisfaction of seeing a young 
 English friend descend from the Omnibus from 
 Ebensee with two companions, whose acquain- 
 tance he had made on board the Steamer on 
 the Danube. This Trio being all of an active 
 turn of mind, had decided to see as much as
 
 62 
 
 possible in as little time as possible , and the 
 next day was to be sufficient for the Lions of 
 Ischl. I did not fail to take them up to Small- 
 nau and introduce them to the good Marie, 
 who invited us all to breakfast the next mor- 
 ning, which we of course promised and per- 
 formed. I recollect that we dined together 
 afterwards, and to return a compliment, I or- 
 dered a bottle of the expensive Hungarian 
 wine, and as we must buy experience, I did 
 not regret the addition to my dinner bill, as it 
 convinced me that one trial of such sweet 
 luscious wine was sufficient. The next day 
 these Worthies decided should be appropriated 
 to visiting Gosau, which having not yet seen, 
 I consented to make a fourth in their carriage 
 and go with them. But the next morning at 
 six o Clock, the rain descended in torrents, 
 and I, foreadvised as to a certain walk from 
 the Hotel to the Lake, declined the pleasure 
 of wading thro' the mud half way up the legs, 
 and turning round, enjoyed an hour or so more 
 of rest in my bed. But to reconcile them to
 
 63 
 
 my absence, I promised that they should find 
 me at Salzburg, which City I was very desi- 
 rous to visit, having heard it so highly extolled 
 by the many Strangers who had been tempted 
 to stay there some days. 
 
 The next morning at five o Clock I found 
 myself at Salzburg, having passed the charming 
 road from Ischl to that city in the dark, and 
 asleep in the Malle Poste. Here let me say, 
 that on coming from Salzburg some days after, 
 I saw a most beautiful and extensive view of 
 the Wolfgang Lake and its borders from the 
 top of the high hill you descend before arri- 
 ving at St. Gilgen. At Salzburg I went to the 
 Archduke Charles, and laid me down to repose 
 for an hour or two , and afterwards break- 
 fasted , but the situation of this Hotel being 
 very dim\ and not prepossessed by the phy- 
 siognomy of the Landlord, I sortied out to 
 find one more to my taste. On a first visit 
 to any City, I always direct my steps to the 
 principal Church, and it may be supposed thai 
 the celebrated Dom or Cathedral of Salzburg
 
 64 
 
 would be the first object of my curiosity and 
 search. My way to it led me across the Place, 
 of which the Cathedral forms one side, and in 
 the centre of which, the beautiful Fountain, 
 the admiration of every Stranger, throws up 
 its pretty column of water. Facing the Cathe- 
 dral and the Fountain appeared the Goldenes 
 Schiff Hotel, the very sort of place I was in 
 search of. On asking a waiter who stood 
 at the entrance if I could be accommodated 
 for a few days, I was assured in very good 
 English , that I should do honor to the Hotel 
 by my patronage, and that he and all the house 
 were at my command. My commands were 
 soon issued and obeyed, and Eccomi, here I am, 
 established with all my traps In a most com- 
 fortable lively Chamber, charmingly situated in 
 a wing projecting from the Hotel , my front 
 window commanding a fine view of the 
 Monchsberg, Fortress, Cathedral, and Fountain, 
 and the side windows to the right and left, 
 presenting different parts of the City. I soon 
 discovered Salzburg to be a charming and
 
 65 
 
 interesting Town, and the more interesting, 
 for its dissimilarity to any other I had ever 
 visited, and I have heard many express the 
 same opinion. That there is grass to be seen 
 in many places, as Murray says, is not to he 
 denied, I saw some in the Place in the cor- 
 ners under the Cathedral, and in a few other 
 places. In fact Salzburg is not an overbuilt 
 overpopulated City, nor is it a spruce, gay 
 shopwindowed place, to suit the taste of a 
 thorough paced lounger, but a fine old Town, 
 that breathes an air of respectability and an- 
 tiquity. It must be a residence for many of 
 the Aristocracy , if one may judge by the 
 equipages and their occupants, one sees driv- 
 ing thro' the Streets. There are sufficient 
 people to be met every where according to 
 my taste. The market place is very lively, 
 and amusing, and well supplied with well 
 dressed respectable Buyers, and clean look- 
 ing , civil Sellers of the necessaries and lu- 
 xuries of life, good and cheap. If you like to 
 be pushed and elbowed, go to the Bridge, 
 
 5
 
 66 
 
 and streets adjoining , which are always 
 thronged. That fine Bridge , with the wide 
 torrent of the Salza rushing impetuously under 
 it, and that enchanting view from it, as yeu 
 look up the stream towards Eigen. Unless in 
 the dry season, the Salza is a very fine river. 
 The Cathedral is not very imposing in its 
 exterior, but the interior is very striking for 
 its vastness, and fine proportions. It is not 
 highly ornamented , but sufficiently so for a 
 Church, which in my opinion should inspire 
 feelings of devotion, rather than admiration, 
 and dispose the mind to the worship of Him 
 in whose immediate presence we are, rather 
 than distract it by the splendors around. There 
 are five Organs , a fine large one , and four 
 smaller near the Altar. On Sunday morning 
 I heard some very fine Music, and also on 
 Thursday morning, the Mass is performed by 
 a full band, choral and instrumental. The Music 
 Gallery is so high up, that the Leader with 
 his energetic time marking flourishes, looked 
 like one of those Puppets , whose arms you
 
 67 
 
 move by pulling a string. A Stranger is at 
 liberty to mount to the high Gallery behind 
 the organ, which commands a fine view of 
 any religions ceremony being performed. 
 There are several other fine Churches each 
 deserving Notice, especially the curious old 
 Nonnberg, and likewise two Cemeteries, one 
 adjoining St. Peters, and the other, a very 
 large one, on the other side of the Bridge, 
 both containing some old and interesting Mo- 
 numents. After the principal Church , any 
 eminence near a City becomes I think the 
 object of ones curiosity, especially such an 
 eminence as Monchsberg. I was on its summit, 
 and round the Ramparts, as soon as such an 
 ascent and extent would permit. They will 
 admit the Stranger to see the interior of the 
 Fortress , and to mount to the Keep , from 
 whence there is a superb and extensive Coup 
 d'oeil. The circuit of the ramparts is a very 
 interesting walk, affording from many parts, 
 fine views of the city. The prints exposed 
 in the windows, of Salzburg and the Fortress,
 
 68 
 
 as seen from the Calvarienberg, determined 
 me to ascend that Mountain, and by the bye. 
 all elevations bearing that name , deserve to 
 be visited. After passing the bridge a little way 
 up the street. I found an Arch way on the right, 
 with steps leading up to the Church. On arriving 
 at the top, I could find no place from whence 
 to enjoy any view of the Town, but straight 
 before me appeared a large gate , with the 
 handle of a bell at the side. On pulling this 
 bell, the gate was opened by a woman, who 
 left me to pursue my own way. Seeing before 
 me a path leading up thro' the Forest, I natu- 
 rally concluded it must lead somewhere^ as 
 paths generally do, and when on the ascent, 
 sometimes to some views of some merit. 
 Pushing on, I came to a seat intended for a 
 resting place, and then on to another, which 
 assured me that I was in the right way. I 
 kept on mounting until I arrived on the summit, 
 where I found a large building, (called some 
 Castle, I forget the name) the abode of the 
 Keeper of the Forest. From the windows of

 
 69 
 
 the large rooms you enter, there are very fine 
 extensive views of the valley beneath , and 
 of the river Salza, till it is lost in the distance. 
 On the right, the picturesque and verdant Gais- 
 berg, the pet Mountain of this country has a 
 charming appearance, and the green gradual 
 sloping sides seem to invite the Stranger to 
 try the ascent, which many make, to enjoy the 
 beautiful view from the summit. In the Castle 
 one finds refreshments, and very acceptable 
 after the fatigue of mounting. I had not yet 
 obtained the desired view of the City <fcc. but 
 the Keeper kindly accompanied me down part 
 of the descent, and diverging from the path, 
 led me to an opening, from whence the City, 
 Monchsberg, and the Fortress appeared in all 
 their glory. From what I recollect of Edin- 
 burgh , this Fortress of Salzburg , bears a 
 great resemblance to the Castle of the former 
 City, and on a similar commanding position, but 
 not so interesting as that of Auld Reekie. 
 
 I passed many days at Salzburg most 
 agreeably, in rambling about, and making ex^
 
 70 
 
 cursions to the different points of attraction 
 in the neighbourhood. I felt also quite at home 
 in my comfortable chamber, to which I could 
 retreat, and enjoy uninterruptedly my books, 
 thoughts, and repose, and in the night, com- 
 posed to sleep by the soothing lullaby played 
 by the falling waters of the Fountain. Nor 
 must I omit those dear, quaint- strikingly an- 
 tiquated Chimes, whose slow, halting . long 
 winded tones, made one dream of Olden times, 
 and of the drawling, drowzy psalmody of an 
 ancient German Congregation : with a pause 
 between each stave, long enough to give the 
 good old Worthies time to take breath, if not, 
 a short doze. The living part of the life I led 
 was also much to my taste. I recollect that I 
 had an excellent breakfast of Coffee, or Tea 
 &c. <fcc. for 20 Croitzers : and for my dinner. 
 I indulged in the delicious venison of that 
 Country whenever I could get it, called on 
 the Carte Rehrucken or flesh of the Doe or 
 Chevreuil, which are shot in great numbers on 
 the Mountains, and sold to the Hotel keepers.
 
 71 
 
 I should much enjoy for my dinner to day, a 
 portion of that same Venison, for which I paid 
 only 15 Croitzers , and hungry as I am, it 
 would satisfy my appetite, if accompanied by 
 the salad with Eggs (Hauptel mit Eier) which 
 gave such a zest to my gormandizing enjoyment. 
 Also a very good beefsteak is forthcoming, if 
 ordered a TAnglaise, for every Cook abroad 
 understands our sanguinary taste. There is a 
 variety of made dishes (Eingemachtes) but I 
 recommend my Reader to leave it to Louis 
 the head Waiter, who speaks English well, to 
 direct his Choice. A good fellow enough that 
 Louis, and very attentive, unless when in grand 
 toilette, and about to make his appearance on 
 the Pave, then I advise every one to get out 
 of his way, and address those good boys, the 
 underwaiters for any thing required. I wonder 
 if Louis still wears, that perfectly white small 
 hat, rounded on the crown, and brim turned 
 up all round, with the Cocks feather stuck in 
 it, which I saw perched on one side, on that 
 magnificent crop of red hair, and also those
 
 72 
 
 drab color brodequins , which appeared from 
 under the bright sky blue Continuations., with 
 a score of pearl buttons down the front, 
 displaying those splay feet to the greatest 
 advantage. The Speise Saal at the Golden 
 Ship is small and low , but at certain hours 
 always crowded. Several times I was obliged 
 to seek my dinner at the Arch Duke Charles, 
 where the Salle a Manger is much more ca- 
 pacious, but not so attractive, as I found there 
 comparatively but few Guests. Some of the 
 Frequenters of that Hotel, would do well to 
 advise the Landlord with his red solemn coun- 
 tenance, and brown smug wig which conceals 
 but 3 / 4 of his grey hair, not to enter the din- 
 ning room, and oifer so obsequiously his snuff 
 box to the Diners. It is not every one who 
 likes the smell of snuff, and his red nose fuller 
 of it than it can hold, is not an agreeable object 
 when eating one's Cotelette. 
 
 I often went in the afternoon to a very 
 pretty place called Leopolds Crone, about half 
 an hours walk, or a quarter of an hours drive in
 
 73 
 
 the Omnibus ; and to which many resort in the 
 evening. The road takes you through that won- 
 derful work of labour, and perseverance, called 
 Sigismonds Thor , cut for a long distance 
 through the solid rock. The fine Chateau is partly 
 occupied in the Summer months by an English 
 family. The large sheet of water in front, 
 forms one of the prettiest miniature Lakes in 
 the world; and it was a great enjoyment to 
 take one's Coffee, fruit, or many other sorts of 
 refreshment in the Plantation belonging to the 
 Hotel, where there were seats, and tables placed 
 under the trees, with a carpet of verdant turf 
 underneath. The Lake is very full of fish, 
 which are left to increase and multiply; for 
 no one is permitted to catch them, and indeed 
 if caught , they are not worth eating. They 
 afforded me however much sport by their 
 greedy rivalship for the bread I threw into 
 the water; at last I think they knew me, for 
 my steps by the side of the Lake were fol- 
 lowed by a shoal of them. There are many 
 pretty boats kept purposely for the diversion
 
 74 
 
 of the Visitors, and are at their service with- 
 out any cost. It was a charming sight on a 
 fine evening, to see a number of Rowers pro - 
 pelling their barks in the Venetian manner, 
 to pass those before them; and many a 
 pretty boat race ensued. One young Lady with 
 a large Florentine straw hat, displayed her 
 fine form to great advantage, and attracted 
 much admiration, not only by her graceful, but 
 also by her skilful management of her boat. 
 At a decent distance , there is a Military 
 swimming establishment, open to the Public, 
 and much frequented , especially by youthful 
 parties, whose floundering, splashing, ducking, 
 diving , with continual shouts of triumph or 
 reproach . carried me back to the buoyant 
 amusements of my youth: when in the Summer, 
 the best part of the day was spent in our 
 beautiful River. Further on., there is a swim- 
 ming School for the fair sex. whose perfor- 
 mances were strictly private. 
 
 The Prints exposed in the windows, of Heil- 
 brunn. and its Monsters spouting out water high
 
 75 
 
 into the air, and the elegant Beau Monde pro- 
 menading, or sitting in such interesting groups* 
 tempted me to take an eight Croitzer ride in the 
 Omnibus to those famed Gardens. I found cer- 
 tainly many groups of Sunday looking people, 
 sitting, and smoking, with beer before them, and 
 likewise Fountains fantastic enough, drivelling 
 out water two inches high; in fact Hellbrunn is 
 a fac simile of a Cockney place of Sunday 
 resort. Very different is Eigen with its beau- 
 tiful Gardens and grounds, to which one mor- 
 ning I bent my way. After a good walk of an 
 hour and a half, I arrived at the entrance 
 near the pretty Church, and on the left, I saw 
 some steps leading up to a Platform, on which 
 tables were disposed as if for dinner. I was 
 right glad to find that I need not return to 
 Salzburg to satisfy my appetite. It happened 
 to be Monday, an idle day for a certain class 
 of people ; and there were many Guests. I no- 
 ticed one long table , at which a numerous 
 party had apparently eaten and drunk to rep- 
 letion , to judge by the quantity of half de-
 
 76 
 
 voured pieces of saucisson , ham , bread <fcc, 
 spread over the table, and a countless number 
 of Decanters half emptied of their contents 
 of wine, beer (Sec. The Waitress told me that 
 it was a wedding party, who had just break- 
 fasted, and had ordered their dinner to be 
 ready in an hour. Wishing to witness the 
 gastronomic powers of such a party, I desired 
 the waitress to have a Cotelette ready for me 
 at the same time. After sauntering through 
 the charming Park, I returned to my early 
 dinner, and found the Party , consisting of 
 more than twenty Persons, male and female, 
 all seated at table, and impatiently calling out 
 for dinner. The Bride and Bridegroom appeared 
 both of them respectable, and upwards of 40, 
 and no doubt this was not the first hymeneal 
 celebration to either of the party. But such 
 a scene followed of eating and drinking, and 
 roars of laughter at the most abominably 
 indecent jokes , which all. male and female, 
 young and old, appeared to enjoy. I shall never 
 forget. After consuming an incredible quantity
 
 77 
 
 of solids and liquids , the Party rose from 
 table , and departed in a long roisy proces- 
 sion of Carriages to Salzburg, there to finish 
 the day most probably with a Carousal of the 
 same description ; and I employed the rest of 
 the day, in exploring the pretty walks , and 
 enjoying the beautiful views, which excite the 
 admiration of the many Visitors of this charm- 
 ing resort. One day, tempted by the low fare, 
 I made an excursion as far as Unken on the 
 road to Innsbruck, having heard much of the 
 picturesque scenery on entering the Tyrol; and 
 also of the pretty and agreeable Town of 
 Reichenhall, thro' which the road passes. This 
 route takes one thro' a corner of the Bava- 
 rian territory, and then enters into the borders 
 of the Tyrol. Every Traveller has no doubt ex- 
 perienced the vexatious and unnecessary sear- 
 chings and delays, which are so annoying, es- 
 pecially on the Frontiers of petty States. At 
 the Bavarian Custom House, our Omnibus made 
 a formal halt, and every article of luggage 
 was taken out to be searched. Unfortunately
 
 78 
 
 we had with us as Passenger, a Tyrolese Ped- 
 lar , who appeared to be well known and 
 suspected, for they examined every part of 
 his luggage with the most minute research. 
 They made him take off his blouse , and 
 actually take down his breeches., fortunately 
 he had on another pair under. He was too 
 cunning for them, for they found nothiug. I 
 was surprized to see him count his one florin 
 notes before them. When my turn came, altho 
 1 had only a small carpet bag with a change 
 of linen , and the usual necessaries for the 
 morning, yet three or four fellows examined 
 it most minutely; they opened my tooth pow- 
 der box, unfolded my clean shirt, and at last 
 asked me if I had many bank notes. I took 
 out my purse, the contents of which proved 
 to them that I was no Agent of Rothschilds, 
 journeying to profit by any difference of ex- 
 change. I was much pleased with Reichenhall, 
 and induced to remain there all the night. 
 During the Summer months, this very agree- 
 able Town is very full of Visitors for the be-
 
 79 
 
 nefit of the Salt baths. The Hotel where the 
 Diligence changes, is exceedingly comfortable, 
 and the pretty Garden in front is very gay, 
 and much frequented in Summer. In Dublin if 
 one calls out "Pat bring me materials" you 
 are immediately supplied with a portion of 
 whiskey, sugar, water and lemon, but at Rei- 
 chenhall, if a well known Customer makes a 
 sign to one of the Hebes of the Gardens, she 
 brings him forthwith, a glass of beer, a slice 
 of bread, a raw turnip, a knife, and some salt. 
 I saw many parties enjoying those luxuries. 
 The next morning I went on to Unken thro' 
 a very beautiful country, which tells that we 
 are in the Tyrol. On the way, one sees on 
 the summit of a high steep Mountain, a very 
 pretty Church, and near it some very inte- 
 resting ruins of an old Castle. Further on. 
 we come to some very ingenious and cele- 
 brated Hydraulic works, for forcing the waler 
 up from the river below, into the pipes leading 
 to the Salt Worksat Traunstein. On the road 
 further on, there are two hills so steep, that
 
 80 
 
 one fears that the Carriage will turn topsyturvy 
 down them. Up these hills you must walk, 
 infirm or lazy as you may be. or in whatever 
 weather it may he. I think it was on my re- 
 turn, that the Driver pointed out to me that 
 interesting looking Mountain the Untersberg, 
 which had often attracted my attention when 
 seen from a distance. According to Coachee, 
 there is a certain Barbarian Tyrant chained in 
 the bowels ef the Mountain for his cruelty, and 
 is not to be released until a certain number of 
 years have revolved, when he is to remount 
 his Throne. One requires the Authority of some 
 such writer as Washington Irving, before one 
 gives credence to such a mysterious affair. I 
 would not quit Salzburg without mentioning the 
 small but interesting Museum, for seeing which, 
 tickets can be obtained at the fine Picture Shop 
 near the bridge, and also the Church and Pa- 
 lace at Maria Plain, with its beautiful view: and 
 the celebrated Hippodrome, where the Cavalry 
 exercise every morning: and likewise the Go- 
 vernors Summer Palace , and fine Gardens
 
 81 
 
 over the Bridge, where there is sometimes 
 good music in the evening. But one of the 
 greatest advantages the Stranger finds at Salz- 
 berg , is the great facility of making excur- 
 sions from it at a very cheap rate; for in- 
 stance, one can go from Salzburg by a very 
 comfortable Diligence. 
 
 To Innsbruck 5 florins 
 
 2 Linz 3 j, 
 
 9 Munich 3 „ 
 There is likewise an Omnibus every mor- 
 ning to Hallein for 15 Croitzers, and on to 
 Golling 15 Cr. more, to Berchtesgaden, and the 
 Konig See 30 Cr. I took advantage of these 
 cheap opportunities of visiting the celebrated 
 Gollinger Waterfall, and the Konig See; and 
 to those who are about to make the same 
 excursion , I can only say, that I envy them 
 the great enjoyment in store for them.
 
 82 
 
 rail, and c)Louiq £>ee. 
 
 1 he Omnibus leaves Salzburg every morn- 
 ing at six o Clock for Hallein and Golling. 
 Many Tourists who have not satisfied their 
 curiosity at Ischl or Hallstadt, stop at Hallein 
 to visit the celebrated Salt Mines. I candidly 
 confess that I never visited any of them, 
 preferring to leave that pleasure for the 
 imagination. Those who had performed that 
 exploit, seemed to regard it as an operation. 
 or a duty, and glad when it was over, and 
 to be able to say that they had done it. I 
 should much enjoy the sight of those dark 
 silent Chambers, lighted up as they are some- 
 times, when visited by Royalty. Hallein is
 
 83 
 
 likewise celebrated for its excellent beer, and 
 no doubt it has other claims on one's notice, 
 altho I was so glad to get out of it, as a dull 
 uninteresting Town. I fear the Landlord of 
 the Poste Hotel, where we changed horses, 
 did not regard me with any good will, seeing 
 that I was an Englishman, having had a dis- 
 pute w r ith three of my Countrymen two days 
 before. This Party, which I had seen at Salz- 
 burg the preceding evening, told me, that 
 they had dined at this Hotel, and charged so 
 extravagantly, that they had appealed to the 
 Authorities. One of the Party spoke a little 
 French, the Burgmeister nothing but Hallein 
 German , but he seemed to understand what 
 they meant; however he could only reply 
 by shrugging his shoulders, saying, sehr gut^ 
 sehr billig, (very good, very reasonable). Of 
 course they had no other alternative but to 
 pay the bill ; I asked them if they had de- 
 ducted the sixth part of the amount , as the 
 difference between the Austrian and the Ba- 
 varian currency, to which they replied that
 
 84 
 
 they had not not knowing that such a diffe- 
 rence existed , and which, in some measure 
 accounted for the apparent overcharge. 
 
 The Omnibus arrives about ten at Golling. 
 where the Traveller will find a good break- 
 fast at the Poste Hotel. At all places they ask 
 you to take a Guide, which I invariably re- 
 fuse, not only to save the expence, but also 
 to save myself the nuisance of their presence, 
 when contemplating any beautiful object of 
 Nature, which they shew such impatience to 
 quit . in their hurry to get over their task. 
 The Coachman on the road had pointed out 
 the Church one sees to the right in the Val- 
 ley, as the direction to the Waterfall, and 
 that was sufficient. At the back of the Hotel. 
 I found the path leading to the bridge over 
 the river (fine river), and to the Church fur- 
 ther on. From the Church I was to ascend 
 thro' the Forest. If we follow a path by the 
 side of a river, and if we hear the distant 
 sound of falling waters gradually becoming 
 more distinct, we may be sure of being in
 
 85 
 
 the right direction. When someway thro' the 
 Forest, the rapidity of the stream increased, 
 and the Current became a Torrent, foaming and 
 agitated , as if it had just past thro' some 
 frightful OrdeaL Soon after, it appeared dash- 
 ing down at the foot of the Fall. Here one 
 begins to ascend, and to meet the waters 
 rushing down with increased fury, in pro- 
 portion to the steepness of the descent. One 
 comes at last to the foot of a zig zag stair- 
 case, where there is a commodious seat, and 
 a Pedestal, on which is inscribed "that the 
 Stranger is indebted to the munificence of 
 the Prince Schwarzenberg, the Proprietor of 
 the Forest, for the facilities afforded of be- 
 holding one of the most wonderful works of 
 Nature/' On ascending the stairs, or steps 
 rather, cut in the side of the Mountain, and 
 made solid by pieces of wood let into the 
 soil, with a rail to assist the ascent, one 
 comes to a seat opposite the lower Fall; a 
 beautiful sheet of Water falling perpendicu- 
 larly down over a rock ; but looking very
 
 86 
 
 high up, one sees a Bridge thrown over a 
 Chasm, and connecting one hutting rock with 
 one opposite. I saw that this Bridge was to 
 he attained, where to view the wonderful 
 work of Nature , spoken of on the Pedestal. 
 I immediately made for it, and never rested 
 till I stood on that Bridge, where I must have 
 arrived breathless with haste, and the fatigue 
 of mounting. I perfectly recollect that I was 
 hreathless with admiration, when first I stood 
 in presence of that heautiful Ohject, clothed in 
 that long, white, dazzling dripping rohe, throw- 
 ing itself headlong into the awful foaming Gulph 
 so far below. I must have remained a long 
 time on that Bridge , and I recollect that 
 "I often took leave, hut was loth to depart," as 
 some song says, and that during my stay, the 
 volume of water from some cause greatly in- 
 creased , and that the Rainbow was perfectly 
 formed in the spray, which added greatly to 
 the beauty of the scene. It was late in the 
 afternoon when I returned to the Hotel. After 
 dinner, the good Landlady persuaded me to
 
 87 
 
 take a carriage to visit the Oefen, a great 
 curiosity about a league from Golling. About 
 half way up a steep Hill, I came to some 
 steps, cut in the high bank on the right, 
 which the driver told me, led to the Oefen* 
 On the summit of the bank , I found a path 
 on the descent on the other side, which soon 
 brought me to the brink of a precipice, from 
 whence looking down, I saw the River whirl- 
 ing round, foaming, and boiling with rage as in a 
 Cauldron, to escape from between the sides of 
 the riven Rock, thro' which it had to pass some 
 way. It is indeed a great Curiosity, and well 
 worth the trouble of going more than a league 
 to see. I returned to the road by a path and 
 steps leading towards the top of the hill, from 
 whence I had a fine view of the celebrated 
 Pass Lueg, on the road to Bad Gastein. At that 
 time I little thought it would be my good for- 
 tune to travel thro' that Pass on my way to 
 those far famed Baths. I left Golling the next 
 morning at 6 o' Clock by the Omnibus, and at 
 Hallein, I took my usual conveyance to Berch-
 
 88 
 
 tesgaden ; a very pleasant Drive but very 
 circuitous, to avoid the high Mountain, over 
 which Ihere is a road much nearer, but so 
 steep, that very few Carriages pass that way. 
 The Pedestrian who does not care about fa- 
 tigue, will be amply repaid his exertion, by 
 some beautiful views from the summit of the 
 Mountain. Berchtesgaden is celebrated for the 
 beauty of its situation, and as being the Summer 
 residence of the King of Bavaria. The scenery 
 around is very charming, and no doubt many 
 Tourists would make a halt there, if a good 
 Hotel could be found. The Inn called Neues 
 Gasthaus (New Hotel) is very uncomfortable, 
 and the head Waiter, as in most other Hotels 
 in this Country , has the entire management, 
 and cheats like the D — 1. 
 
 But the chief attraction in this pari of the 
 World is the Konig See, to which I advise 
 every Tourist to drive at once: for he will see 
 enough of Berchtesgaden, in passing through 
 it, going, and returning. After an agreeable walk, 
 or ride, we arrive at the borders of this most
 
 89 
 
 charming Lake., where good hoats are always 
 in readiness. The size of the boat, and the 
 number of boatmen, will depend on the num- 
 ber of the Party, and the prices are regulated 
 by a Tariff in a proportionate rate. To appre- 
 ciate the sublime beauty of the scene , when 
 gliding over the dark green silent waters one 
 approaches the centre of the Lake, where it be- 
 comes shut in by the red rocky Mountains, rising 
 perpendicularly from their base stupendously 
 high, one must be there, with the reality be- 
 fore one ; for no description can convey to the 
 imagination the awe, and admiration it inspires. 
 Some of the Mountains are immensely high ; 
 one of them on the left called the Matzman, is 
 above 9000 feet; you have seen it from the 
 Schafberg. On reaching a certain point, the 
 boatman loads a large pistol; Bang, it strikes 
 against the bare, red breast of the Mountain 
 or the right, back, with a violent retort against 
 the one opposite , back again, back again, the 
 report makes the circuit of all the Mountains, 
 which respond with a loud growl of defiance.
 
 90 
 
 I made the fellow fire four times in going, and the 
 same number in returning, which cost me 32 Cr. 
 I was delighted with St. Bartolomeo at the 
 end of the Lake, which is a hunting and fishing 
 Seat of the king of Bavaria: and where Stran- 
 gers are most comfortably accommodated with 
 excellent food, and with Beds, unless the 
 king should be there . which rarely happens. 
 I recollect that I dined in the pretty Plantation 
 opposite the House, and that I feasted on some 
 very delicious red trout, with some excellent 
 wine. Sometimes they take fish of great 
 weight and size in this Lake ; in the entranee 
 Hall, one sees the drawings of fish caught at 
 different times , some of them if I recollect 
 rightly near 301bs. They had taken one of 131bs. 
 the morning I arrived, which had been sent 
 to the Palace, all the Fish in the Lake belong- 
 ing to the King. About a quarter of a league 
 from St. Bartolomeo, there is another Lake, 
 but much smaller, and not possessing the grand 
 and solemn character of the Konig See. I can 
 imagine that a few days might be passed most
 
 
 x^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■ ■'■Z
 
 91 
 
 agreeably at this St. Bartolomeo, with such 
 comfortable quarters, and beautiful scenery all 
 around , especially if the nights were moon 
 light, which must give a most romantic aspect 
 to the dark silent Waters , and the gigantic 
 Mountains which encompass them. I should like 
 to go with the Fishermen, and see one of those 
 lords of the lake , when first out of the ele- 
 ment in which for years possibly, he must have 
 spread terror far around him with his mighty 
 lash, and devoured countless small fries, to 
 have produced that immense bulk. On my re- 
 turn, the Boatman pointed out a Cavernous 
 opening under the base of a high Mountain to 
 the right, thro' which issues the water of the 
 Lake, and after passing a long way under 
 ground, forms the Schwarzbach or Gollinger 
 Waterfall. This seemed an ascertained and 
 established fact, and never questioned by the 
 Inhabitants in the vicinity of the two Places. 
 I happened to speak of this afterwards at the 
 Hotel at Salzburg, when an Englishman in the 
 room asserted that it was not the fact , and
 
 92 
 
 upon my asking him his Authority for the 
 denial, he said that Murray as much as denied 
 it, by adding a note of interrogation when 
 speaking of it; now, to question Murray's in- 
 fallibility, is with an English Tourist abroad, 
 rank blasphemy, and this mark of doubt, like 
 the Burleigh shake of the head, is so unans- 
 werable, as to put all argument out of the 
 question* It would really seem, that a certain 
 Class of our Tourists come abroad only to see 
 what Murray speaks of. and return home per- 
 fectly satisfied if they have seen them all : and 
 one sees them in the Churches, and Galleries, 
 passing over every Object, Picture, or Statue, 
 not noticed in the Hand Book, and seeking only 
 to identify, Murray's Guido, or Murray's As- 
 sumption or Murray's Venus &c. (fee. and if one 
 asks a Tourist of that stamp, if he has re- 
 marked such and such a thing in any City. 
 Church, or Gallery he has visited , he ask at 
 once innocently, if it is mentioned in Murray ; 
 I cannot be supposed to speak in terms of dis- 
 paragement of such an invaluable compilation,
 
 93 
 
 but only of regret, that my worthy Countrymen 
 do not see with their own eyes, and exercise 
 their own judgments a little more, as to what is, 
 and what deserves to be noticed and admired. 
 
 I slept that night at Berchtesgaden , to 
 be in readiness for the Omnibus , which 
 starts at six in the morning for Salzburg. 
 The Waiter brought me my bill, just as 
 the Coachman had taken the reins in hand. 
 I saw that I had been charged for wax 
 lights, altho I had had but a common dip to 
 light me to bed ; but I had no time to dispute. 
 I gave him a ten florin Austrian note to 
 change, and he in part, gave me a five florin 
 Austrian note, which he reckoned as six flo- 
 rins, stating that to be the Agio! (the fellow 
 said) and he persisted, till he saw himself 
 about to be kicked for his bare faced attempt 
 to cheat, when he gave up the point. 
 
 On my return to Salzburg I found the Trio, 
 who had been making excursions to different 
 places, and were delighted with all they had 
 seen, particularly with Aussee. They described
 
 94 
 
 the Country as most delightful, the two Lakes 
 in the vicinity, and the walks to them as most 
 enchanting, the Hotel so clean and comfortable^ 
 mine Host such a fine fellow, the Hostess such 
 a jolly nice Creature , and the neat handed 
 Phyllis who waited on them, so dark eyed, 
 smiling , and attentive. Moreover, the viands 
 and wine were of the best quality, and the 
 Cuisine parfaite ; especially the fine Char, fresh 
 from the Lakes, dressed so charmingly. But 
 the greatest attraction remains to be told. 
 I am a great Amateur of the Rod and Line ; 
 and in Murray, I had read of fishing : and I 
 long'd to follow in his steps so wise a 
 man as Humphry Davy: who two Years had 
 pass'd , in captivating Trout in Aussee's 
 Stream. I had likewise heard, that in pas- 
 sing thro' Aussee by the Malle Poste , he 
 was so struck with the beauty, and pictu- 
 resque aspect all around , that he ordered 
 his Portmanteau to be taken out of the 
 Carriage , and remained there two Years. 
 Having some weeks at my disposal. I de-
 
 95 
 
 cided on going to Aussee and stay a little 
 time there, and accordingly went, and took 
 my place in the Malle Poste for the next 
 
 evening.
 
 96 
 
 ofto 
 
 u66ee. 
 
 1 he Malle Poste leaves Salzburg for Aus- 
 see at seven in the evening. The pretty Ischl 
 was fast locked in the arms of sleep, when 
 I passed thro' at three in the morning, I must 
 have slept all along the Valley, and up the 
 high Mountain the Potcheiv which one ascends 
 on turning to the left, soon after passing thro 
 Goisern. I descended at the Poste Hotel at 
 Aussee about seven in the morning, and I re- 
 collect that I was a little daunted and disap- 
 pointed at the first view around: for it did 
 not appear the Promised Land. On asking for 
 a Chamber, they shewed me into one com- 
 manding a fine view of the Mountains ; one in
 
 97 
 
 particular, just opposite my window, of to- 
 wering height, and beautiful shape, covered 
 to the summit with the everlasting Pine. At 
 any rate this looks well thought I, and des- 
 cended to breakfast. Good Coffee always puts 
 one in good humour , mine with the usual 
 etceteras was most excellent, and abundant ; 
 for which, the charge was only 16 Croitzer. 
 After visiting the Church, in which I found 
 nothing remarkable, I mounted one of the 
 eminences over the Town , and the coup cf 
 oeil satisfied me as to the beauty of the 
 Country all around. When I returned to the 
 Hotel, the good creature of a Landlady came 
 to ask me what I should like for my dinner, 
 and on hinting my predilections, she nodded 
 her head as if to say, I was a person of 
 good taste, "leave the rest to me." In half an 
 hour, I sat down to my delicious, well dres- 
 sed tho' simple repast, cooked, dished up, and 
 brought to table with her own fat hands, the 
 neat handed, dark eyed Phyllis aforesaid, 
 officiating most attentively as my Cup bearer.
 
 98 
 
 After dinner, when I asked for some fruit, 
 instead of sending in a small portion at the 
 usual charge of other Hotels, she sent out a 
 boy with 3 Croitzers for some Strawberries. 
 He soon returned with a large quantity , to 
 which she added of her own good will, full 
 of human kindness, a glass of fresh milk, and 
 Sugar, for which she would receive nothing. 
 I may be laughed at for thus detailing such 
 trivial instances of kind treatment, but I cannot 
 deny myself the pleasure of recalling to my 
 mind the amiable qualities of my generous 
 Hostess, whose small, round, red countenance 
 supported by that expansive form, beamed with 
 the same kindness and earnestness to make 
 me comfortable all the time 1 remained there. 
 In the afternoon I enquired my way to 
 the Grundel See, which had in a great mea- 
 sure attracted me to Aussee, and where, 
 my friend G — 11 assured me, the fish would 
 jump for joy on seeing me. The walk 
 thro' the valley by the side of the Traun I 
 found very charming, but my intent regard
 
 99 
 
 into it for the fish which should have been 
 swimming about , was not gratified by the 
 sight of one. When I came to the very pretty 
 and comfortable Hotel on the rising ground 
 at the head of the Lake, I accused my friends 
 of withholding rather than exaggerating its 
 apparent attractions , and the beauty of the 
 fine sheet of water before it, with the exqui- 
 site scenery which surrounds. The next morn- 
 ing I sallied forth with rod and lines , and 
 with full expectation of making my dinner 
 on part of the fish which of course I should 
 catch, and which the buxom young landlady, 
 (the daughter of the very tall thin Robinson 
 Crusoe looking Fischmeister who is Landlord, 
 as well as Guardian of the lake) promised to 
 dress for me (Nota bene^ I should have had 
 to pay for this fish). Instead of catching any 
 fish, my hooks were caught by the large stones 
 in the river, and the projecting stumps of trees. 
 "Better luck next time," I quoted, and reserved 
 two or three for the Lake after dinner. The 
 young Landlady, to console me for not cat-
 
 100 
 
 ching my fish, asked me to come with her 
 and choose some. She led me down to a 
 wooden house which enclosed a large tank let 
 into the w r aters of the Lake, in which there 
 were a great number of fish swimming about. 
 With her fishing hand basket, she brought up 
 several , and I naturally chose the biggest, 
 which she suffered to slip out of grasp ; the 
 next, with all its lubricity could not wriggle 
 out of her pertinacious clasp. On preparing to 
 try my luck in the Lake after dinner, the Fisch- 
 meister told me, that the Saibling (Char or 
 Lake trout) kept always far out in the deep 
 waters, both for the sake of heat and society, 
 and the fish I saw swimming about in the shal- 
 low parts, were coarse, and of no value. The 
 Saibling are caught with the net , and princi- 
 pally in certain months of the year, September 
 and October I believe, before the Lakes are 
 covered with the Winter ice, and are preser- 
 ved in large Reservoirs , for public demand. 
 Being Imperial property, every Saibling is 
 accounted for to the Imperial purse, and at
 
 101 
 
 every Hotel, charged at a high price, 30 to 
 40 Cr. for a small Portion. 
 
 I persevered in my fishing from day to day, 
 until I lost nearly all my hooks and lines; at last, 
 the upper joint of my fishing rod came off, and 
 is now at the Reader's service if he will dive 
 for it, in the whirlpool where the Traun issues 
 from the Grundel See. As I was so unlucky 
 in fishing for Trout, I determined to fish out 
 some vestiges of our celebrated Sir Davy, who 
 according to Murray, had sojourned so long 
 chez Hakl. To Hakl's I went, but they dis- 
 claimed their Hostship and referred me to the 
 Trauhe, where they said an Englishman had 
 lived a long time; but the present Landlord 
 of the Traube had inhabited the House but 
 five years, and his Predecessors had taken away 
 all books, or papers, wherein one might have 
 found some entries or memoranda concerning 
 him. Some of the old inhabitants recollected 
 some Englishman to have lived at Aussee some 
 time, but our Sir Humphry Davy was no Sir 
 Humphry Davy to them, but a mere English-
 
 102 
 
 man. In the various Fremden books I found 
 some entries which in some measure recon- 
 ciled me to my ill luck; many of my Prede- 
 cessors having been attracted to Aussee , by 
 the reputation it had obtained as good fishing 
 ground : One of the emanations runs that ; 
 
 Mr. Murray be wise 
 
 In the Traun try your flies 
 
 Before you republish your book 
 
 Then Strangers like me 
 
 Deceived will not be 
 
 Nor for fish in the river will look. Piscator 
 another mournfully apostrophizes ! "Ah fish, 
 where" are ye ? beyond the flood : beyond the 
 flood ! I met almost every day in my rambles, 
 an Angler who in spite of his little success still 
 persevered. One day I found him in great glee, 
 having caught three trout and one of them 
 almost a pound! He accounted for the scarcity 
 of fish, by the immense quantity of heavy logs 
 of wood sent down the river from the Forests 
 for the Salt works , which must either crush 
 or drive away the timid people of the water.
 
 103 
 
 Altho disappointed in my piscatorial pur- 
 suits , I contrived to pass my time very 
 agreeably, in rambling about among the diver- 
 sified scenery of this beautiful Country, enjoy- 
 ing the fine air , and the picturesque views 
 on the Hills, or sauntering thro' the Valley, 
 indulging in many a Reverie on the banks of 
 the River, and many a day dream in a sweet 
 shady spot I found, where the Grundel Lake 
 could be seen embosomed between the Moun- 
 tains, and where I often took my Book ; but 
 I fear the beauty of the scene before me, 
 and the musings upon what I had seen , dis- 
 tracted my attention often from the Author, and 
 it was there I believe , the rash idea of pre- 
 senting you my dear Reader my random Re- 
 collections, first entered my head. I recollect that 
 I often visited the large evaporating Salt works 
 in the Town, and one source of enjoyment 
 they afforded me, will argue a strange taste # 
 We had some very warm weather, and in the 
 hottest part of the day, I remember to have 
 indulged in the selfish gratification, of watching
 
 104 
 
 the men supplying the immense fires with 
 wood, which I could see, when standing idly 
 under the shade at some distance. They must 
 have heen working in the heat of Senegal, 
 and I, doing nothing in comparative coolness. 
 However, they can retaliate that selfish con- 
 strast at this moment, when writing in my 
 Room without a Chimney, and shivering with 
 cold, and they, before a blazing fire. One day 
 I approached as near as possible one of the 
 red hot Chambers, where the blocks of salt 
 in the shape of loaves of Sugar are dried, 
 and I pictured to myself, Shadrach and his 
 Brethren, sitting cool, unsinged, in that fiery 
 Furnace. How awfully sublime, appeared their 
 Divine preservation. Another of my favorite 
 walks was to the Valley and Lake of Alt 
 Aussee. One day , an Englishman en route 
 from Insbruck to Gratz , halted two days at 
 Aussee. I took him to the two Lakes , and 
 when he came to the high ground which com- 
 mands a view of Alt Aussee, he was struck 
 with admiration , and exclaimed , why , this
 
 105 
 
 Valley much surpasses the celebrated Ziller 
 Thai in the Tyrol. Indeed it is a beautiful 
 Valley and possesses every attraction to make 
 it a delightful Summer Resort. To judge by 
 the number of pretty respectable Cottages 
 dispersed about, and the parties of gay, well 
 dressed, young people, I met in my rambles, 
 it must attract many Visitors in the Summer 
 season. There is a very pretty Place belong- 
 ing to a Baron or Count Zedlitz (so they pro- 
 nounced his name) built in the Swiss style, 
 with Verandahs round the House, both on the 
 first, and second Story, in which, I recollect 
 to have noticed parties of Ladies, young, and 
 not young, who appeared at a distance very 
 charming, as no doubt they were. The Lake 
 of Alt Aussee is very interesting, especially 
 at the farther end, where it is shut in by the 
 high Mountains. From this Lake, flows a branch 
 of the Traun , called the Altausseer Traun, a 
 pretty stream, and abounding in those rapids 
 so grateful to the eye of an Angler. The 
 Traun itself comes out from its Mothers Cham-
 
 106 
 
 ber, (the little Kammer See, where it takes 
 its rise., being literally Chamber Lake) a little 
 puny weak Offspring, and after passing thro' 
 the Toplitz and Grundel Lakes, issues from the 
 latter, a considerable River. At Aussee , it 
 receives the waters of the Alt Ausseer , and 
 goes on thro' the beautiful Hallstadt and Traun 
 Lakes, and forms that fine River which one 
 sees rushing on with rapid and noisy haste, 
 to finish its course, and lose its name in the 
 mighty Danube. 
 
 I passed many days in a listless, dolce far 
 niente^ sort of existence, and I scarcely re- 
 collect what roused me from it. I believe it 
 was a day or two of rainy weather, and the 
 desire of knowing how the w r orld went in 
 Gallignani. and finding some good tea; the tea 
 at Aussee being the tilleul leaf. Having three 
 or four weeks of idleness still on my hands. 
 I decided to return to my pretty Ischl. and stay 
 a little time there. When I desired my bill to 
 be made out, regret was very visible in their 
 countenances , for possessing naturally an
 
 107 
 
 even temper , and a quiet manner , unless 
 thwarted, or contradicted, and easily satisfied 
 when I can get all I want, they had become 
 attached to me, and I to them. My good Dame 
 instead of concocting one of those long ac- 
 counts on pink or blue paper , went to her 
 Cupboard, and brought out her slate, on which 
 I had been chalked for what I had eaten and 
 drunk. I found that I had been right in leaving 
 to her honesty the different charges, for the 
 amount was not half what I expected. At my 
 departure by the Malle Poste, the fine looking 
 Herr Postmeister, Landlady, Son, Daughter (fine 
 girl) waiting maid, Chamber maid, cook, 
 kitchen maid, boots, ostler, helper and super- 
 numeraries, all came out to bid me adieu, and 
 wished all sorts of good luck in all sorts of 
 German phrases, expressive of good will to- 
 wards me. I promised to return as soon as 
 I could, and so I will. 
 
 On the summit of the Mountain you ascend 
 from Aussee, there is a fine view of the Dach- 
 stein, and on descending some way down, a
 
 108 
 
 most enchanting one, of the Lake of Hallstadt 
 to the left. I made my Entree into Ischl at 
 about nine in the evening, and was received 
 with due honors at the Poste Hotel.
 
 109 
 
 '5c 
 
 Ihe five or six weeks I spent at Ischi, 
 appear now as a Dream, and I wake to the 
 reality of crowded Streets, and a busy, noisy 
 population. But on awaking I must rub my 
 "mind's eye " to remove all mist from the re- 
 collections of the past, and reduce them to 
 some order, in the shape of a short topo- 
 graphical sketch of the Place. 
 
 Unfortunately, Ischl can be no longer cal- 
 led a Village, nor fortunately can it be called 
 a large Town, there being but about 250 Hou- 
 ses , and not more than 2000 Inhabitants. 
 Happily, no Architect has been called in, ex- 
 cept in one instance, to violate the simplicity
 
 110 
 
 of the Valley, or mock the surrounding Moun- 
 tains, by constructing staring regular Streets, 
 or Places. Certainly, some of the Houses are 
 built in a straight line with its neighbour to 
 the right and left , especially that Row of 
 houses facing the pretty , shady Promenade 
 by the side of the Traun , but the houses 
 are not uniform , and being for the most 
 part , occupied by Visitors, present a lively 
 and attractive appearance. The only regular 
 Street is Wirers Strasse , which turns its 
 back on the Town , to look on the stupen- 
 dous Mountains, and the fine well kept Gar- 
 den in front. A fine, well built street , built 
 in honor of a very munificent Benefactor of 
 that name. The remainder of the Town 
 consists of good, clean looking, respectable 
 Houses , nearly all commanding fine uninter- 
 rupted views of the Mountains, and in nearly 
 all, excellent Aparlments at your service. In 
 short, there is an air of simplicity, carelessness 
 ( idleness certainly ) throughout , that one 
 strolls about the Place at one's ease , as to
 
 Ill 
 
 the Toilette , and I really think that one 
 could walk thro' the streets hatless , without 
 attracting observation. There is also another 
 large Garden opposite the Church, well laid out, 
 with walks , shrubberies , and seats , but 
 few resort to those Gardens , except nursery 
 maids and children, the Visitors preferring to 
 ramble up the Mountains , or down thro' the 
 Valleys. There seem to be Bathing facilities 
 out of number , and I have no doubt , that 
 every Visitor could find a Bath at the same 
 moment. There is nothing remarkable in the 
 large Church , except on the Sunday , when 
 some of Ihe old Ladies make their appearance 
 with those curious Gold head dressos , in the 
 shape of a Helmet. The strains of the Organ 
 reached me early in the morning in my cham- 
 ber , and harmonized greatly with my taste 
 and feelings. There are but three Hotels of any 
 reputation. That immense Building which you 
 see from the fine bridge resembling a large 
 County Court, is called the Hotel par Excel- 
 lence. Its Architect must have had his eye on
 
 112 
 
 the Mountains, and his percentage , when he 
 designed it, and the Proprietor, on the purses 
 of the profuse and careless Russian or Hun- 
 garian Noble, and the ostentatious Englishman* 
 when he paid for it. The Pile cost 250.000 
 florins. For one third of that amount, a first 
 rate Hotel might have been constructed , and 
 if in character with the scenery around , and 
 the size of the Place, would have formed a 
 great additional attraction to Visitors. It is a 
 fine stately Edifice, but defaced greatly by the 
 narrow entrance near the end, which intended 
 for a Carriage, seems exactly adapted for the 
 Brewers dray. It has the reputation of being 
 very dear, and indeed the few who go there* 
 must expect to pay for those who go else- 
 where. I understood there was a good Table 
 d' hote for one florin, but in the Salle a manger 
 there appeared but a few melancholy Stran- 
 gers waited on by a number of silent ob- 
 serving Waiters. My Hotel the Poste, was 
 always full of Strangers who came and de- 
 parted in rapid succession at the beginning
 
 113 
 
 of the Season. The Salle a manger was al- 
 ways crowded at the dinner hour, and the 
 glasses ringing in all directions to attract 
 the Waiters, who seemed the more pleased, 
 the less you ordered. At the Hotel the Gol- 
 denen Kreuz, (the Golden Cross), there are 
 excellent Chambers very reasonable , and in 
 the comfortable Salle a manger always full 
 of cheerful company, a dinner a la carte very 
 good, well dressed, and cheap enough. With 
 respect to any particular gastronomic deli- 
 cacies offered in those Speisen Cartes (bills 
 of fare) in the different Hotels, or whether 
 among the numerous Eingemachtes, there were 
 any dainty Dishes fit to set before an Epi- 
 cure, I candidly confess my inability to give 
 an opinion. Being written in German charac- 
 ters, I could not understand of what they 
 were composed, and not wishing to disturb 
 my bile by any saucy provocatives of un- 
 known Cookery, I left them untasted , and 
 confined myself to simple Roti^ or Beefsteak, 
 or Colellette , and with the same constant
 
 114 
 
 penchant for the Venison, as according to the 
 Epigram, epicure Quin entertained ; I think 
 the best sauce to our food, was the great 
 appetite, which the fine Breezes on the Hills 
 created in all, for at the Dinner hour, the clat- 
 tering of the knife and fork was awful. But 
 speaking frankly, I think the Epicure or Gour- 
 mand must anticipate more relish for his food, 
 from his increased desire for it than from any 
 piquante zest of the Ischl Cuisine. 
 
 I dont think that the Public Dinners here 
 would suit an East India Director, or an Alder- 
 man, or remind him of those often enjoyed at 
 the Albion, or City of London, but by contrast. 
 One day I was surprized to find the tables in 
 the Speise-Saal disposed longitudinally , and 
 laid out for a large Party. Franz the head 
 Waiter told me, that a grand dinner annually 
 given by the Inspector of the Salt works, who 
 was then at Ischl, was to take place at three 
 o'Clock. Determined to feast my eyes at least 
 on the delicacies which were to feast the 
 guests of so great a man, I ordered my dinner
 
 115 
 
 at one of the side tables in the corner, reserved 
 for the Inmates of the Hotel. Punctual to the 
 moment the Invited made their appearance, 
 being the elite of the town, habited in the cus- 
 tomary black, to the number of about twenty 
 four. When seated at table, two dishes of 
 Soup made their entree^ which I saw to be the 
 thin wiry wormy Soup called I believe Ver- 
 micelli, so bad in general at the Hotels ; after 
 came the never failing Bouilli with its red 
 follower, the insipid Beet Root. The doors were 
 then thrown open, to usher in two Attendants, 
 bearing 2 dishes of Imperial Saibling, two in 
 each dish ; but the first served helped themsel- 
 ves to such large portions, that 4 heads, and 
 4 tails only were left for the Unfortunates at 
 the bottom of the table. I really felt for them, 
 and especially for the tall, good looking Dr. 
 M — r., to whose generous catering I owe my 
 good breakfast, and Galignani at the Small - 
 nau, which is his property. Next came a dish 
 of Cotelettes, with its accompaniment some 
 green vegetable, and also some made Dish
 
 116 
 
 handed round with much ceremony as the 
 Cook's Chef d 9 autre. Then the Roti^ the Salad en 
 suite^ followed hy a spunge cake pudding cut 
 into slices ; last came the ne plus ultra of the 
 feast, an enormous Omelette soufflee^ which made 
 my mouth water. I must say that there was 
 plenty of Champagne, the popping of the corks 
 followed in as rapid succession as a feu de 
 joie at a Review. After dinner, the President 
 made a speech, which I am sure was a very 
 loyal one, and I joined heartily in the Vivas. I 
 do not give this hill of fare out of disparage- 
 ment to the Hotel, of which I w^ould not speak 
 slightingly, but to shew, that such short commons 
 which would not go down with our Functiona- 
 ries and their friends in England, are quietly put 
 up with hy brother Officials in another Country. 
 . This subject of food, naturally leads me 
 to speak of the fine, healthy, and appetiz- 
 ing air one breathes in this charming Coun- 
 try , and which must be to many constitu- 
 tions most healing , and restorative. I can 
 speak from experience of its beneficial effects.
 
 117 
 
 for when I first came into this country suf- 
 fering from Asthmatic affection, and palpitation 
 of the heart, it was a painful effort to ascend 
 the stairs or any elevation, but within a month, 
 I could mount any Mountain ; and I saw like- 
 wise many other Invalids recover gradually 
 their strength and healthy appearance. 
 
 The valley of Ischl being upwards of 1400 
 feet above the level of the Sea, the air must na- 
 turally be pure and invigorating, and of which, 
 from the particular conformation and position of 
 the Mountains, there is a free and uninterrupted 
 circulation; also during the Summer months, 
 the atmosphere is free from the sultry, intense 
 heat, which is so oppressive in the deep val- 
 leys of other Mountainous Regions. The cur- 
 rent of air brought down by the rapid stream 
 of the Traun, and also of the Ischl, which two 
 Rivers unite near the town , having passed 
 over the green Prairies, and along the sides 
 of the Mountains covered with Alpine aro- 
 matic plants, flowers, and grasses, diffuses a 
 balmy and exhilerating influence throughout;
 
 118 
 
 likewise, the Atmosphere of Ischl must be 
 strongly empregnated with the saline evapora- 
 tions from the Salt works, which no doubt, must 
 be extremely beneficial to some constitutions 
 and complaints. For Invalids requiring change 
 of air. or with constitutions enervated by over 
 excitement, or exertion, or intense application, 
 and likewise by laxity of life. I should sup- 
 pose no climate can be more renovating or 
 strengthening. For certain Maladies, and Chro- 
 nic disorders. I understand the Salt Baths are 
 exceedingly serviceable . and often effecting 
 cures. But on these points, we must call in 
 the advice of one or both of those eminent 
 Physicians of Ischl . who enjoy great repu- 
 tation, and which they deserve. All must allow 
 that no treatment can be milder or more 
 agreeable, nor any Pharmacopeia more simple 
 than theirs. Dr. M — r recommands AVhey from 
 the Goats milk and the air of Smallnau : the 
 Panacea of Dr. P — k is Whey from the milk 
 of Cows , mineral waters , and strawberries 
 acting as accessories. I do not known whether
 
 119 
 
 the two Doctors are at issue upon these points, 
 upon which so much can be said on both 
 sides, and on which, our inimitable Fielding 
 would have written a long argument, replete 
 with wit , humour, and learning. They both 
 appear to have numerous clients and friends ; 
 Dr. M — r nothing cowed by the opposite opi- 
 nions of his Rival, pursues his Capricornican 
 system in a very handsome Carriage ; and the 
 Dr.P — k seems to be followed by a long train of 
 friends in his Via Lactea, which suggests a vile 
 pun (Milky Whey or Milky Way). I reconciled 
 the two Prescriptions to my taste and con- 
 science, by often taking Strawberries, and in- 
 haling at the same time the air of Smallnau. 
 But if by this treatment the two Doctors 
 dispense with all medicine, one asks if there 
 be a Dispenser of Medicine in the Town ; Oh 
 yes " I do remember an Apothecary , and 
 whereabout he dwells," just opposite the 
 pretty Theatre, in a very good comfortable 
 House, and whom I have seen sitting on the 
 bench before his door, and enjoying his pipe,
 
 120 
 
 and who presented a striking contrast to bis 
 Predecessor of Mantua; for his cheeks were 
 plump and not meagre, nor had sharp misery 
 worn him to the bones for they were well co- 
 vered, and rounded with solid substantial flesh: 
 whether he lived by culling and selling simples 
 I known not, for I never enter from choice 
 or curiosity a Druggists or Apothecarys shop. 
 Where to go and best enjoy the fine 
 air of which I have been speaking, would 
 be a question difficult to answer : not from 
 the scarcity , but multiplicity of best pla- 
 ces. There are paths and walks up the Moun- 
 tains, and thro' the valleys in every direction, 
 each leading to some pretty Temple, or Seat 
 erected at the expence, and hearing the name 
 of some munificent high Personage, that others 
 might enjoy the beauty of the View, or some 
 charm which the situation possessed in the 
 eyes of the Donor. During the first fortnight. 
 I had explored many of them, but when I 
 had found two or three to my taste , I was 
 constant to them. Mv favorite walk after
 
 
 M
 
 121 
 
 breakfast was up the hill behind Smallnau, and 
 turning to the left thro' a field, I came to a 
 very charming natural platform, on which under 
 the shade of some fine trees, seats and a table 
 had been placed at the expence of the Arch- 
 duchess Sophie, and called after her, Sophien- 
 sitz. From this beautiful elevation, there is in 
 front, one of the finest views possible of the 
 Valley, with the Traun winding a long way 
 thro' it, and of the white headed old Dachstein 
 at the termination. On the right, one may take 
 a long survey of the Valley leading to St. 
 Wolfgang, with the Ischl streaming down in 
 the centre. A remarkable Summit of one of the 
 high Mountains will attract the notice of the 
 Spectator , which appears cleft in two. This 
 is called Teufels Berg (Devils Mountain), and 
 the story tells that the said old Gentleman 
 wishing to Macadamize the tops of the Moun- 
 tains for the convenience of his morning walk, 
 and of seeing what was going on below, was 
 here arrested in his progress, and decapitated : 
 his head being left as a warning to all his fol-
 
 122 
 
 lowers professing levelling' principles. Indeed 
 it has the appearance of a Boars head being 
 devilled, with its mouth distended, and tongue 
 quivering with agony. The path behind the 
 cottages at the back leads to the brow of a 
 steep descent, looking down into a deep, nar- 
 row valley, which separates one from the high 
 Mountain opposite. This valley is called Jain- 
 sen Ramsau, but it deserves the name of another 
 Sleepy Hollow: and from its dreamy mysterious 
 aspect , would seem to be on the confines 
 Fairyland : and that if followed to the right 
 far enough, one might expect to see Puck. 
 Cowslip, and the rest, gathering Flowers ; and 
 further on, to come to 
 
 "The bank, whereon the wild thyme blows, 
 Where oxlips and the nodding- violet grows: 
 Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine; 
 With sweet musk roses, and with eglantine ; 
 Where sleeps Titania," 
 
 The path up the steep hill on the other 
 side of the Valley, brings us to a Temple erected 
 to the honor of Dachstein. orThorstein rather.
 
 123 
 
 which is the ancient and proper name ; and to 
 a Waterfall near., called the Hohenzollern Was- 
 serfall ; which must be very pretty when there 
 happens to he any water. The Walk most 
 frequented by the gay folks, is the Franzen- 
 Allee by the side of the Traun, and shaded 
 by rows of Ash Trees, a very agreeable Pro- 
 menade, which at the termination branches 
 off several ways and which lead to various 
 Seats, and Temples for the accommodation of 
 Visitors. In this neighbourhood is the Molken- 
 sieder or Tea Gardens, of the same character 
 as the Smallnau, and much resorted to by the 
 Ischlites, especially on the Sunday. Near this, 
 on an elevation in a very pretty Park, stands 
 the Villa Hohenbruck ; inhabited by the talented 
 Nobleman of that name, and from which there 
 are enchanting views of the Valley and Moun- 
 tains. Up thro' the Forest, and we come to a 
 Temple on a high mound , commanding the 
 whole extent of the Valley and Ischl beyond, 
 and looking up into the wood under the rock, 
 we see the Ruins of the old Castle of Wil-
 
 124 
 
 denstein, formerly the habitation of a power- 
 ful family of that name. But it would be an end- 
 less task, to enumerate the various walks and 
 ways, each possessing its particular charm. 
 
 With respect to the Amusements or gaities 
 of Ischl. I could easily imagine a Correspon- 
 dent of the Post at a non plus , whence to 
 draw his materials for composing an amusing 
 and attractive article. On board the Steamer 
 on the Danube, I asked a young well dressed 
 fellow passenger , if he knew IschL u Oh 
 yes" he replied, I known it well: it is a 
 very beautiful Place certainly , but I found it 
 rather fade\ and such would be the reply of 
 all those who seek in Watering Places and Sum- 
 mer resorts, the everlasting Routine of Evening 
 Assemblies, and late hours, and who in Pleasu- 
 res of that kind, to use a common expression, 
 keep up the Ball all the Year round. To discuss 
 about taste in these matters, would be very 
 stupid and absurd, nor indeed is it a matter 
 of taste in thousands, but of distaste for the 
 charms of Nature, and into whose heads (I will
 
 125 
 
 not misuse the terms imagination, or mind) 
 the idea never enters, that there can be any 
 thing worthy their notice in the wonderful 
 works of Creation. To such, and to those who 
 prefer the lounge in the shady side of a Street, 
 to the umhragious walk in the Country, and 
 the gay beau monde tricked out in Silks of 
 many colors, to Nature attired in her verdant 
 robe of Summer, I should suppose Ischl would 
 prove fade and uninteresting. To the lover of 
 the Country and its enjoyments, who does not 
 think it solitude to be alone, who can feel de- 
 light in rambling thro'most charming and roman- 
 tic Scenery, and in visiting Nature in her most 
 sublime and beautiful Abodes, this part of the 
 World, with its Lakes, Mountains, Valleys, and 
 Waterfalls, must afford a month or two of most 
 agreeable, as well as healthy relaxation during 
 the Summer season. 
 
 In one respect I was much disappointed at 
 Ischl. I had read, and heard of the Casino as 
 being a very fine Establishment and a great re- 
 source for the Visitor, and where I anticipated
 
 126 
 
 the enjoyment of reading the newspaper or 
 some periodical, and sometimes the quiet Rub- 
 ber in the evening. I found the Casino but not 
 the resource. The Interior is very well adapted 
 for the purpose intended, having a fine large 
 reading Salon, well lighted and cheerful, with 
 a bow windowed front facing the River and 
 the Mountains, and adjoining, a very fine Ball 
 Room, elegantly fitted up with Chandeliers. 
 Sofas. Music Gallery &c. <fcc. I went there 
 the first evening at about 9 o'Clocfc, for the 
 purpose of reading the newspapers, and to 
 my surprize I found the Establishment in to- 
 tal darkness, and the doors lock'd. This early 
 closing continued all the season except when 
 there were Public Balls, or Reunions, or 
 Concerts. The reason is, that the Visitors are 
 mostly Germans who sup at nine, and retire to 
 their homes at ten o' Clock. If there were 
 more English or French visitors, no doubt the 
 Establishment would be placed on the same 
 footing, with those of other Watering Places. 
 I went once or twice to the Theatre
 
 127 
 
 whose pretty Exterior adorns that part of the 
 Town. We (I mean the Audience and I) ap- 
 peared to be all in the same Box, and indeed 
 the Interior must resemble the famous Hat box 
 fitted up as a temporary dwelling for Mr. Le- 
 muel Gulliver when he resided at Brobdignag. 
 We were too close to the stage for any scenic 
 effect. The Company altho small was res- 
 pectable. I cannot recollect to have seen 
 during my stay, any of those shabby genteel 
 Romeos or Nephews, or seedy looking Uncles, 
 who generally hang about the precincls of 
 Provincial Theatres. The captive Queen, the 
 gay Widow, the jealous Wife, the sighing Mai- 
 den, the Romp, the laughing Landlady, were all 
 represented by a plump, round faced, roily polly, 
 merry Creature of about 30, who came very 
 often in the evening, attended by her Lady in 
 Waiting, to take their Obers at the Smallnau, and 
 where they did not rehearse their Tragic parts. 
 One may be always sure of finding at 
 such a Summer resort as Ischl, itinerant Mu- 
 sicans, and especially Tyrolese, who wander
 
 128 
 
 about in families of Musical organization. When 
 I first arrived, the People of Ischl were lending 
 llieir ears to the Hoste family, consisting of 
 the Father, who played well on some stringed 
 Instrument which he fastened to the table, and 
 two Daughters with their Mother Shipton hats 
 and sharp features, and two sharp looking Boys, 
 who performed their national airs secundum 
 artem, much better adapted for distant Moun- 
 tains than a crowded room or indeed any 
 Room. As the season advanced, the coming 
 of the four Brothers Meister. was announced 
 and the Hostes took to flight as Pigmies would, 
 on the approach of Giants. Soon the four Brii- 
 der appeared, gigantic fellows of immense 
 bulk, and each in himself a Host. They lived at 
 their ease all the rest of the Season at Ischl. 
 smoked and got fatter from the produce of 
 occasional Concerts. I went once to hear them, 
 to realize Dickens numerous, discription of the 
 Somethingean Singers at Mrs. Leo Hunters 
 public breakfast, but here in addition to the 
 grunt and the howl, the biggest of the lot
 
 129 
 
 produced such high treble tones, that I really 
 blushed for him , for uttering such unmanly 
 notes. I was contented afterwards to hear 
 them from a distance, but I was much amused 
 by seeing them often walking about in the 
 Streets, and roads , and always in straight 
 line abreast, "eyes right;" and in the same 
 order , as when singing at the Concerts. 
 When walking behind them, I could not help 
 admiring their immense Calves, shown off by 
 the white stocking, their broad shoulders, and 
 indeed all their hinder proportions. There 
 came also a professional Gentleman with his 
 Wife, on a Musical Tour, who gave two or 
 three concerts at the Rooms , but as the 
 Pieces to be played , were all of his own 
 composition, I would not risk my florin for 
 the probability of having my ears bored with 
 common place music. I had been sickened at 
 Vienna with young Straus's staccato jiggish 
 Compositions , and I think every Composer 
 should have the merit of his productions well 
 established, before he asks people to pay for
 
 130 
 
 listening to them. We had likewise an Eques- 
 trian Troop, but which did not remain long, 
 for the Horses not being Highflyers, nor their 
 Riders qualified "to witch the World with feats 
 of Horsemanship," they attracted little attention. 
 The Master of the Troop, as if to convince 
 the World of the want of taste in the Isch- 
 lites, determined to have them drawn out in 
 all their glory, and Daguerotyped. I happened 
 to be passing , just at the time when the 
 Troop was being artistically grouped, but the 
 pencil only could convey to the Reader, the 
 exquisite absurdity of the scene. They mus- 
 tered four Horses, all perfect Hacks of the 
 road, but in good condition, and on them, 
 the Female Riders were seated. At their head, 
 Thalestris their Queen , a Woman of about 
 35, attired in a riding habit and a black 
 beaver hat, of astonishing height in the crown, 
 and very narrow in the brim, but such a 
 Mouth ! ! which compressed as small as pos- 
 sible, could not conceal tw T o long tusks, her 
 only teeth. Her Amazons, types of their pro-
 
 131 
 
 fession, their brown skin contrasted by their 
 white dresses, and vulgar faces by artificial 
 wreathes of Flowers. When the Group was 
 arranged to the best advantage, the Master, a 
 stout good looking Man with a long sandy 
 beard, put himself at their head on foot, and 
 threw himself into an attitude, no doubt studied 
 for the occasion ; his body a little on one side, 
 the large right hand with the large ring on 
 the fore finger supporting the cigar he was 
 smoking, and the left arm negligently placed 
 akimbo. But the old Drummer in front dres- 
 sed in a large Cocked Hat, and the Military 
 Jong red coat, which from its appearance 
 dated at least a Century back, completed the 
 picture. When the Artist nodded his head as 
 if to say, "that will do," the Queen screwed 
 up her mouth , the Girls put on their smirk, 
 the Master puffed out a long volume of smoke, 
 and the old Drummer struck up on his drum, 
 and I verily believe, that he thought his tattoe 
 would be Dagueorotyped with the rest.
 
 132 
 
 C CONTINUED.} 
 
 Judging from appearances, as well as from 
 report , there must be a good deal of good 
 society at Ischl. I saw several of the best 
 Houses lighted up in the evening, as if for 
 Parties, and I met many Sedan Chairs with 
 Ladies inside, no doubt, going to them. I heard 
 that several Families of Distinction opened their 
 Salons every Evening to receive their Friends; 
 particularly the Comtesse Wrbna, who lives 
 in the pretty Villa with the beautiful Garden, 
 the Stronger will see in passing thro' Gratzer 
 Street, over the Bridge ; and I have no doubt, 
 but that Visitors of any respectability, wishing 
 for Society , could obtain the Entree into
 
 133 
 
 their Circles. Some Members of the Imperial 
 Family reside there always in the Summer, 
 and are much beloved, as well as respected, 
 for their amiable and afFable manners, and un- 
 ostentations mode of living. One morning, 
 when taking my breakfast at Smallnau, I ob- 
 served a tall footman in the Imperial undress 
 livery, enter the Garden, and address himself 
 to the Waitress Marie, who after giving some 
 directions to those preparing Coffee &c. in the 
 Cottage, went to her room in the Farm house 
 near, as if to arrange her Toilette. She soon 
 reappeared with her head dress not whiter, 
 but blacker than before ; the Females in this 
 country of her Class, always wear black silk 
 handkerchiefs round their heads. I soon after 
 saw four Ladies coming up the slope, one of 
 whom Marie told me, was the Archduchess 
 Amelia. Daughter of the late Archduke Charles. 
 They seated themselves quietly in the only 
 Temple unoccupied , and presently , a young 
 Man came cantering up on a very pretty 
 pony, with a little spaniel at its heels. This
 
 134 
 
 was the Archduke Wilhelm , Brother of the 
 Archduchess. I am sure the Imperial Party 
 enjoyed their rustic breakfast , for I never 
 heard more joyous laughter than proceeded 
 from their Temple, and the nimble Marie was 
 obliged to trip over the grass very often for 
 additional supplies, and indeed they appeared 
 only as one of the many Parties then break- 
 fasting I, but for the annoying presence of a 
 Police Officer, who hovered about near them, 
 and with gloomy Official scrutiny, regarded 
 us all, as if we were going to fall with our 
 knives upon his Protegees , instead of our 
 bread and butter. The gaity of the Royal 
 young people, seemed to astound the solemn 
 Menial , who possibly thought he ought to 
 interfere, to prevent such Unimperial sounds 
 from reaching common ears ; however the 
 Empire has not been endangered, nor respect 
 for the Imperial Family diminished , by their 
 enjoyment of their breakfast in our hearing. 
 About the second week in July, the full 
 Season commenced at Ischl: altho* during the
 
 135 
 
 preceding Month, many Visitors had established 
 themselves in Lodgings, and there had been 
 a constant succession of Tourists, going and 
 coming to and from the different points of 
 attraction in the Neighbourhood. During the 
 previous Seasons, some Russian and Hun- 
 garian Noble Families had been accustomed 
 to pass some Months here , but this Year, 
 owing to political events, few if any, made 
 their appearance. 
 
 They say that Ischl is the Paradise of the 
 Viennese, who flock here in great numbers 
 in this Month of July. Mine Host of the Poste, 
 was obliged to refuse hosts of New arrivals, 
 who were forced to take refuge at the Grand 
 Hotel, which began to open by degrees its 
 Jalousies. 
 
 To the great joy of the Ischlites, the Arch- 
 duke Frances and his Archduchess, who pass 
 two or three Months at Ischl during the Sea- 
 son, now made their accustomed visit. The 
 Inhabitants of this Country have a peculiar, 
 and very striking way of celebrating any
 
 136 
 
 Event, and expressing their joy on any par- 
 ticular Occasion. I recollect one evening at 
 Aussee, when writing in my Chamber, I ob- 
 served an immense Bonfire on the summit of 
 the high Sugar Loaf Mountain opposite my 
 Window, which had a very beautiful effect, 
 when throwing its lurid flames high up into 
 the dark sky ; and soon after, the Postmei- 
 ster's fine looking son came into my Room, 
 to call my attention to this interesting ap- 
 pearance. He told me, that it was the eve 
 of the Fete of a young Lady, and that her 
 Betrothed had lighted up this Fire, as a Com- 
 plimentary Bouquet on the occasion. A very 
 pretty and characteristic mode, some fair Lady 
 may possibly think, for a young Spark thus to 
 display the ardent Nature of his love. 
 
 I was returning in the evening near dusk, 
 from a favorite walk by the side of the Traun 
 on the way to Ebensee, when I saw several 
 large Fires blazing on the tops of different 
 Mountains, and on reaching my Hotel I was told, 
 they were to compliment the Archduke and
 
 jfe^amkaM 
 
 *esg r A 
 
 ^1
 
 137 
 
 his Duchess on their arrival. I had heard 
 nothing of their coming, and I believe the 
 Town had received very short notice of their 
 immediate approach ; and how they could have 
 got up to those apparently inaccessible Heights 
 so soon, appeared impossible ; and really one 
 could have almost fancied, that each Mountain 
 had awakened up its Genius, and sent it forth 
 to light up , and manifest its joy. Late as it 
 was, T went up to Smallnau, from whence I 
 could better see the Mountain Illumination. 
 Here, the Summit of the beautiful Syrius Kogel 
 appeared in a blaze of light, with an Imperial 
 Crown, and the Initials of the Royal Pair 
 display' d in colored Lamps. Whilst there, the 
 Cannon began to bellow out its Ci Willkommen" 
 and in a second, Echo from behind Katharinen 
 Kogel in front , responded with a detonating 
 Crash , and sent it across to Hohe Jock far 
 behind me, who reechoed it on with a tre- 
 mendous roar at an obtuse angle to the far 
 distant, cloud kissing, rocky Im Himmel; by 
 whom and the neighbouring Mountains, it was
 
 138 
 
 received with a thundering peal of loyalty, 
 which continued for some seconds. To speak 
 plainly, the reverberation had a fine effect, 
 and instead of making the Circuit of the Moun- 
 tains, as I had heard it at Genoa and else- 
 where, it went from Mountain to Mountain, in 
 very eccentric and capricious directions. 
 
 The Weather was now very fine, and all was 
 life and animation. A good Band of Musicians 
 began their Summer Concerts in the Evening 
 on the Esplanade, which was crowded. I was 
 obliged to rise early to secure a seat at Small- 
 nau for my Breakfast, and poor Marie , was 
 worn off her legs, in running backwards and 
 forwards to satisfy so many hungry Claimants. 
 Up the steep Mountain, and down the deep 
 Valley, every where one met the noisy Ger- 
 man Parties, and one head at a distance, the 
 women laughing , and the eternal Ja-ing and 
 Nein-ing, of which the German conversation 
 appears half composed. 
 
 But it was in the Speisen Salle at the Poste 
 when dining or supping, their bliss appeared
 
 139 
 
 most perfect, and certainly it was a happy 
 and charming scene to witness ; their unboun- 
 ded enjoyment of their Months holiday; So 
 many delightful recognitions, and surprizes of 
 Friends living in streets far apart at Vienna, 
 finding each other at the same time together 
 atlschl; and then, the Salutations between the 
 Ladies, from the kiss to the curtesy, denoting 
 the degree of intimacy between them. I must 
 own, that I was sometimes much displeased to 
 see a Black-beard rise up with his mouth 
 full, and kiss on his lips a new Comer, but 
 there is no accounting for tastes. They all 
 seemed to know each other , and certainly 
 are a worthy and sociable people. I have seen 
 a woman at a table, nudge her Husband and 
 point out , Herr such a one , dining with his 
 Wife in a distant part of the room , and in- 
 stantly , an expression of awe and respect 
 would steal over the good Man's countenance, 
 for no doubt, the Herr, is a tip top Dealer, 
 and very rich. But I was glad to see the 
 Wholesaler (I fear this word is not in the
 
 140 
 
 Dictionary ) shake hands with the Retailer 
 (most probably) , and the Lady of the one, 
 salute the Wife of the other, hoping that she 
 and all her family were well. This act of con- 
 descension most likely secured a constant cu- 
 stomer to the Big one. 
 
 On the Saturday Evening, there was the 
 greatest Influx of Visitors to Ischl. I recollect 
 once I came in to take my tea, and seated 
 myself at a table near a Party just arrived by 
 the Omnibus from Ebensee, consisting of two 
 Wives, and their two Husbands. They all ap- 
 peared good sort of people , of the Middle 
 Class, who had come out to enjoy themselves 
 for once in their lives. One of the Wives in 
 particular, a good looking, good tempered 
 Creature of about 36, seemed out of her wits 
 for joy at finding herself at Ischl, probably 
 her first Visit. She pinched her friends ear 
 continually, shook hands often with her friends 
 Husband, and squeezed the knee of her own, 
 and looked at him so lovingly, that he must have 
 been reminded of his Wedding Trip. But Sup-
 
 141 
 
 per was to be ordered, and Franz brought the 
 Carte. I saw that a favorite Viennese dish the 
 Snitzel, so much better at Hotels than at home, 
 was one of those which followed the soup. 
 The Husband, without consulting his Wife, 
 called out manfully for a salad, on which she 
 nodded her head, as if to say. "Do my Dear" 
 and the other Husband followed his example. 
 Kaiser Schmarn ( Pancake in tatters , very 
 good) , was brought for all the Party. When 
 the Waiter came to reckon, no objection was 
 made to the prices of the Dishes which had 
 been served, for "tho' the Portions were but 
 scant", they were very good; but when 12 
 Croitzers were marked down for the two 
 Salads, "Good Gracious", it was impossible; 
 for at the Market in Vienna , two Lettuces, 
 which composed the two Salads , could be 
 bought for one Croitzer. But in vain the good 
 Creature , red and perspiring with emotion, 
 urged the absurdity of such a charge ; Franz, 
 like another Shylock, was inexorable, " twas 
 so nominated in the Bond" pointing to the
 
 142 
 
 Carte, where sure enough was to be seen 
 Hauptel 15 which being multipied by 2 and 
 divided by 5, left 6 Cr. each, or 12 Cr. Miinz 
 for the two. 
 
 One day, when I went to dine at the Gol- 
 den Cross. I took, my usual seat which hap- 
 pened to be near a Party of six or seven 
 Persons , who appeared to have dined well, 
 and drunk enough ; but one of the Hus- 
 bands, called out loudly to the Waiter to bring 
 a Bottle of Champagne, to the manifest horror 
 and consternation of his Wife. But the order 
 was given and the Wine was brought. I saw 
 in a moment, by the shape and size of the 
 Bottle, that it had never been in France, and 
 when the cork was drawn, there was none 
 of the Gallic froth, nor effervescing haste to 
 escape from a long twelvemonths constraint, 
 which are the characteristic National qualities 
 of that delicious Wine. The Ladies, who were 
 first served , after tasting it , looked first at 
 each other, and then at their Husbands, as if 
 to ask. u Is this the famous Wine of which
 
 143 
 
 we have heard so much. " A little Boy of 
 about 10, to whom half a glass had been 
 given, added as much water to make it the 
 more; I was much amused at the little Ur- 
 chin's w T ry face of disappointment when he 
 tasted it. In after life, I should hope he will 
 be secure from dreaming of Champagne as 
 Nectar. 
 
 There were now Balls, and Reunions once 
 or twice a week in the large Assembly Rooms. 
 In the morning, I promised myself to go to 
 them, but when the Evening came, and it was 
 time to dress, I excused myself to myself, as 
 being too late, or too fatigued, or too lazy. 
 Once, I saw thro' the large bow window from 
 the road under, that they were pretty well 
 attended , but as I could not hear the Music, 
 the dancing appeared in the grotesque and 
 unmeaning form, which it must assume in the 
 eyes of a deaf man. I soon left looking into 
 the gay Salon, with its glaring Lights, and 
 formal Dancers, to resume my favorite post on 
 the Bridge , and gaze on the boundless Dome
 
 144 
 
 of Heaven, illumined with ten thousand stars „ 
 and on the Moonbeams, dancing on the rippling 
 waves of the rapid Current. 
 
 The Presence of the Imperial Family put 
 the Town and its Inhabitants on the qui vive • 
 the Notables, were every where seen hurrying 
 thro' the Streets, in Pumps, silk stockings, and 
 white Waistcoats , as if going to, or coming 
 from the Imperial Residence : and in the 
 Evening, their Ladies went often to pay their 
 Court. When standing on the Bridge, the Sedan 
 Chairs passed me in rapid succession, carrying 
 the lovely Inmates to the Reception, and the 
 Chairmen , shuffled along with their peculiar 
 swing, and Pari passu , (which reminded me 
 of the Chairmen of Bath in my gay days) as 
 if in a hurry to set down, and return to take 
 up other fair Burthens. 
 
 I dont recollect any Lions , or Liones to 
 have made their appearance during the Sea- 
 son, or any Display, or "turn out'', to have 
 excited our admiration or envy. Certainly, some 
 of the Hats which the Men wore , might have
 
 145 
 
 been called Exclusive, and Distingue , in Sea- 
 sons past, but we were now used to them. 
 Smallnau continued crowded Morning and 
 Evening , and during the day, all the shady 
 Seats, and resting places in the Walks, and 
 on the Heights were occupied. It was a 
 pleasing picture, to see the Family Groups 
 accompanying and surrounding the Invalid, or 
 infirm Relative, carryed in those pretty Chaises 
 aPorteurs^ by the two Tyrolese looking Por- 
 ters, even to the highest elevations , for the 
 sake of the fine air and views. 
 
 The four Brother Minstrels came up several 
 times in the Evening to Smallnau, and actually,, 
 "ranged themselves in front of one of the 
 apple Trees" and I feared every moment they 
 would begin howling, but they did not. 
 
 The fine Weather continued to keep all 
 in good humour, and the delicious Strawber- 
 ries which were abundant , kept us all in 
 good health. The amiable Dr. P — k who dined 
 frequently in our Salle , must have enjoyed 
 seeing his Friends following his prescription, 
 
 10
 
 146 
 
 which, tho' it brought him few fees, brought 
 him many feelings of respect and gratitude 
 for his disinterested advice. Indeed, he ap- 
 peared a great favorite with the Germans, 
 and hand and glove with them all, and re- 
 minded me of the Ally Croker of my youthful 
 days , 
 
 "He talked with the Father, he joked with the Mother, 
 He flirted with the Sister and smoked with the Brother." 
 
 I fear the tall, good looking Dr. M — r 
 was ill and confined to his House about this 
 time , for I missed him many days ; but no 
 doubt, his many Friends and Patients, who 
 appeared of the Haute Volee , followed his 
 system, for I saw many of his Protegees 
 browsing , and capering on the side of the 
 high Mountains , under the care of their old 
 Milkmaid; I had the pleasure of seeing the 
 worthy Dr. before my departure resume his 
 Visits , and looking as fresh and as English 
 as ever , and I trust he found the pulses of 
 his fair Patients as regular, and their tongues 
 as healthy, and musical as ever. But I must
 
 147 
 
 add that the simple, rational, and agreeable 
 treatment (of which I have spoken) pursued 
 by both Doctors , no doubt was prescribed 
 only for the many Patients who visit Ischl, 
 for change of air, and renovating or streng- 
 thening deranged nerves and system; those 
 suffering from more serious Maladies, would 
 find I feel assured, in either of those Gentle- 
 men, the most efficacious remedies, and skil- 
 ful treatment, that experience and professional 
 talent could afford. Dr. M — r has walked one 
 of our Hospitals, and understands English Prac- 
 tise as well as our language perfectly well; 
 and Dr. P — k speaks it also fluently, and is 
 much distinguished for literary, as well as for 
 his scientific and practical knowledge and 
 attainments.
 
 148 
 
 Ca 06 cell 
 
 JUxke. 
 
 About this time I received several Letters 
 from Friends living in different Places, each 
 complaining of the intense heat he was en- 
 during, which proved to me, that I was enjoy- 
 ing a Temperature comparatively cool. Indeed 
 the weather was beautifully fine, and in the 
 hottest hour of the hottest day, always fresh 
 air on the Hills, and happily, plenty of shade. 
 The Evenings were delightfully cool , and in 
 the night, instead of throwing off all covering 
 as I had been obliged to do in many other 
 places, I found a sheet and counterpane very 
 comfortable. From observations made for a 
 numbers of Years, the mean degree of heat
 
 149 
 
 during the three summer Months at Ischl, has 
 been 14:59 of Reaumur, and the Maximum 
 never so high as at Vienna by two or three 
 degrees. Certainly the Weather is more va- 
 riable here, and no doubt, there are more 
 rainy days than in many other Places in the 
 early part of the Summer , which , however 
 annoying to Tourists and early Visitors, keeps 
 the temperature cool, and preserves fresh and 
 verdant the beautiful face of Nature. In the 
 latter part of June the weather becomes more 
 fixed, and one has the enjoyment of the Sum- 
 mer in all its charms. But fine weather in the 
 most favored climes will not last for ever. 
 An instinct which I possess in common with 
 those wind-seeing Animals who 
 
 "When any Storm is nigh , 
 Snuff up, and smell it in the lowering sky " 
 
 told me, that a change of Weather was ap- 
 proaching, and that if I meant to go at all to 
 visit the Gosau Lake, and approach the Vene- 
 rable Dachstein/on whom I had so often gazed 
 at a distance, I had no time to lose. I forth-
 
 150 
 
 wise went and ordered Kutscher to be at the 
 Hotel at 6 the next morning'. 
 
 I have already spoken of the Drive thro' 
 the Valley, and of Laufen, and Goisern , and 
 therefore to save time, let me imagine myself 
 at the GosauMiihle, and turning- to the right, 
 ascending the long Defile between the high 
 Mountains, and on the right, the rapid Torrent 
 rushing thro' the Ravine deep below, and by 
 those numberless lazy logs, which have been 
 rolled down from the heights, and are waiting 
 in the rocky bed of the River, till some vio- 
 lent rains shall have given the Current sufficient 
 force to take them down to the fiery furnace 
 that awaits them. 
 
 The ascent is terribly long, and sometimes 
 very steep; Kutcher leaves in to your choice, 
 and your humanity, whether you will keep 
 your seat; but the motion of the poor Animal's 
 tail before me seemed to say, "You big lazy 
 fellow, why don't you get out and walk;" so 
 out I jumped , and went up the greatest part 
 of the Hill on foot. The sleep sides of the
 
 151 
 
 Mountain are clothed the whole way with the 
 Pine, in some places partially thinned out, 
 disclosing here and there, the picturesque Al- 
 pine Hut, the Shelter, and sometimes the Home 
 of the Wood Cutter; and one wonders how 
 they preserve their perpendicular on such steep 
 declivities. One sees also on the very summits 
 of the lofty Pines in inaccessible situations, 
 pieces of wood elaborately fastened to them, 
 in the form of a Cross, whether to excite the 
 piety of the Wood Cutter, or the pity of his 
 sparing Axe, I was at a loss to conjecture; 
 but the wonder was , how they could have 
 got on those thin tapering tops, which ap- 
 peared too weak to bear their crosses, much 
 more to bear up against the weight of any lad- 
 der, even of rope, employed for placing them. 
 We reached the summit at last, and im- 
 mediately began to descend. Some way down, 
 the river appeared as if running rapidly up 
 hill, and soon the Valley was seen in all its 
 extent. I had heard much of this Valley, as 
 being more Elysian than that of Ischl, but on
 
 152 
 
 nearing it . the whole aspect struck me as 
 being extremely lifeless and melancholy ; and 
 so far from being Elysian, it looked more like 
 the Valley the wrong side of the Styx. The 
 very extensive range of Meadows were clo- 
 thed with green certainly, but the color seem- 
 ed to be of Seasons past, not fresh, but 
 preserved, or may I say, pickled by the hand 
 of Nature. There were no birds singing, and 
 altho' very warm, no flies buzzing about , or 
 Insects to torment and keep one on the qm 
 vive. The few Women I met had Mummified 
 complexions. A few black spectral Butterflies 
 flitted here and there ; and there were Horses 
 and Cattle grazing in the distance, but not in 
 sufficient numbers, to disturb the silent mono- 
 tony of the wide Valley. 
 
 It was Harvest time, and the People here 
 have the custom of drying their Corn, made 
 into much smaller Sheaves than ours, on knot- 
 ted Poles of 6 feet high, fixed in the ground, a 
 much better mode than ours, I should conceive. 
 The first Sheaf pierced in the middle by the
 
 153 
 
 Pole, when brought to the ground, is made 
 to rest as it were on two legs; the other 
 Sheaves follow one upon the other, and the 
 top one is made to spread out as much as 
 possible, to perform the office of Hat, or 
 thatched roof to the body. These being pla- 
 ced in Rows, or Groups, present the most 
 grotesque appearance, and you might fancy 
 you saw a large Party of Bears, each on its 
 two hind legs opposite their Partners, waiting, 
 for some Orpheus to strike up, to begin the 
 Dance. Other Groups resembled those well 
 dressed Gentlemen the Esquimaux, and others, 
 those droll objects of Egyptian worship one 
 sees at the British Museum. Most probably, 
 the Israelities dressed out their Sheaves of 
 Corn in the same manner, which would give 
 Joseph's dream a much more striking effect, 
 than the idea of our short, thick, ungainly 
 Sheaves making Obeisance. 
 
 I made Kutcher drive as fast as possible 
 thro' this long Valley, which took an hour and 
 a half before we arrived at the Schmidts.
 
 154 
 
 Here, we found a number of Chairmen wait- 
 ting - for Parties, who come only in fine Wea- 
 ther to visit the Lake, and also many Peasant 
 Girls with baskets of fresh gathered straw- 
 berries, and I found a midday dose of the 
 good Dr. Polaks delicious remedy most re- 
 freshing after so long a drive. Resisting the 
 importunities of the Chairmen, I pushed on 
 towards the Lakes, my Legs not being yet 
 worn out. The first part of the way is over 
 a Morass, made passable by Hurdles, or rods 
 let into the soil; but even in the driest Sea- 
 son, yielding to the tread, and admitting the 
 Moisture. The remainder is up a shingly 
 Mountain Path, most disagreeable and fati- 
 guing. At last one comes to a turn to the 
 left, and following the stony direction, I came 
 in sight of Dachstein, and soon I stood on 
 the borders of the Lake. I did not shout, but 
 I exclaimed mentally, Prodigious ! Nothing 
 can be more beautifully grand and sublime, 
 than the scene before one. The very Wa- 
 ters of the Lake, and the romantic Borders
 
 2£<&d€tu^ J^ZsvAre.
 
 155 
 
 which encompass them, seem to wear an aspect 
 of awe, and solemn reverence, in the pre- 
 sence of that Majestic Mountain, which has 
 overlooked them since the Creation. We are 
 here about 2800 feet above the level of the 
 Sea, and the snow covered Summit before 
 us, is nearly 10,000 feet. I waited until all 
 other Visitors had left, that I might be alone 
 in the pretty Temple on the elevation com- 
 manding a fine view of the Lake, and its 
 steep tho' verdant sides. Here, one is in front 
 of old Dachstein, on whose summit Winter 
 enveloped in his eternal mantle of snow, 
 seems sternly waiting his time and turn to 
 descend, and exercise dominion over the Re- 
 gions below. The lofty serrated ridge of Moun- 
 tains to the right of Dachstein, and nearly on 
 a level, presents a very interesting continuity 
 to the beautiful sublimity before us, or rather 
 above us. There is another Lake farther on to- 
 wards Dachstein, called the Hinter Gossau See, 
 but few Tourists have the patience and hardi- 
 hood to penetrate so far, the way to it being
 
 156 
 
 so extremely difficult and fatiguing, always by 
 the side of the Mountain, and on the ascent, this 
 Lake being 1000 higher than the first, or as it is 
 called the Vordere See. I likewise heard that 
 when there, the scenery is not to be compared 
 with that of the first Lake, and altho nearer, the 
 view ofDachsteinnot half so grand, if seen at all. 
 
 I suppose it was the recollection of the 
 long way I had to return, and possibly the 
 yearning after the Dish of Trout I had ordered 
 to be ready for me at the Schmidts, that re- 
 conciled me to leaving such a beautiful Scene. 
 I found the road down the Mountain, more dis- 
 agreeable than when I came up, and my feet, 
 and Wellingtons to boot, bore testimony for se- 
 veral days of the cutting cruelty of those sharp 
 rolling peices of rock, which mark out the way 
 to descend. I have not the smallest doubt, but 
 that the Schmidt (on whose face cunning is 
 strongly developed) and his Myrmidons, keep 
 the road out of repair, to oblige Ladies , and 
 all corny Gentlemen to make use of their Chairs. 
 
 On my return, I found my fish, which my
 
 157 
 
 Hunger had made me hope might be a Kbnig 
 See Monster , served up in the shape of 
 small inferior Fry, and on my remonstrating, 
 the cunning fellow, who is Landlord, as well 
 as Vulcan, assured me that they were much 
 superior to Trout, and as a proof thereof, he 
 charged me more than for that Fish. 
 
 If I should ever make that excursion again, 
 I would order my Dinner to be ready on my 
 return (unless I went to Hallstadt) , at that 
 comfortable Inn at Laufen just over the Bridge, 
 with the Garden in front, and kept by a very 
 good sort of Widow. I had desired Kutcher 
 to pull up where I could get a good cup of 
 Coffee, He, a glass of good beer, and the Horse 
 a drink of fresh Water, and he shewed his 
 judgment in choosing the said Widows, for the 
 Coffee was most excellent, and I have no doubt, 
 Kutcher and his Horse, were equally satisfied. 
 The good woman promised me a dish of fine 
 Trout and a Cotelette when next I came that 
 way, and I recommend the Reader to claim the 
 performance of that promise as my Substitute.
 
 158 
 
 C CONTINUED) 
 
 My predictions as to a change of weather, 
 were fulfilled soon after my visit to the Gosau 
 Lake. The next evening when at the Smallnau, 
 I observed the Clouds gradually rising from 
 behind the Mountains , and soon the distant 
 Thunder announced the coming Storm. I had 
 just time to reach the Hotel, when down it 
 came in good earnest, and continued without 
 intermission for forty eight hours. Instead of 
 going up to the Smallnau, I picked my way to 
 the pretty Kiosk, which the Stranger coming 
 from Ebensee will see, perched up on the 
 Rock above the road to his right, just before 
 coming to the Bridge, a short distance from
 
 159 
 
 Ischl. Whoever mounts to this charming little 
 place, will find a pretty Garden tastefully laid 
 out, and various Temples, and Seats, temptingly, 
 and comfortably disposed for taking Coffee (fcc, 
 which besides being excellent, is served by 
 two or three young Nymphs very amiable 
 and good looking. My favorite seat when tak- 
 ing my Breakfast, was in one of the rooms 
 of the Pavillion, just opposite the long Bridge 
 over the Traun, under which it flows in a 
 graceful bend, a fine , wide , and rapid Cur- 
 rent; and just under my Window, the pretty 
 river Ischl was to be seen rushing into its 
 embrace; and the two becoming one, formed 
 the fine Stream, which in another graceful bend, 
 is lost to the view, on entering between two 
 hidden banks on its course to Ebensee. Whoe- 
 ver visits the Kiosk, will not fail to ascend the 
 winding staircase to the top, which being co- 
 vered , and provided with seats , affords one 
 the full enjoyment of the Panorama around, at 
 one's ease, and protected from any rain. The 
 Daguerotyped appearance of Nature, as seen
 
 160 
 
 thro' the four large panes of colored glass fixed 
 to the sides, is extremely interesting for a 
 short time ; and afterwards, one returns to gaze 
 upon her as She really is, with fresh and con- 
 gratulatory feelings of delight, that She is as 
 She is. 
 
 When the weather cleared up , a new 
 source of amusement was opened to me. 
 Every Stranger who comes into this part of 
 the world, cannot fail to remark wherever he 
 goes, the immense quantity of logs of wood, 
 either piled up in long stacks ready for the 
 Furnace, or lying in the hed of the river, into 
 which they have been rolled from the Forests. 
 During the Summer months, these logs lie on 
 the shallow parts, until after some violent rains, 
 the river is swollen, and the current becomes 
 strong enough to raise them from their resting 
 places, and carry them to their destination. 
 The River Ischl now became a very rapid 
 Torrent, and a little out of the Town towards 
 St. Wolfgang, had to pass over some deep 
 Weirs, and with such an increase of Water
 
 161 
 
 formed a fine Fall. From the road which over- 
 looked it, it was really very interesting and 
 amusing, to see those logs, some of them of 
 great bulk, come in rapid succession majesti- 
 cally down the river, like so many swimming 
 Bears, and when approaching the Fall, rush 
 forward, and plunge over the Weirs into the 
 flood beneath. Some of them took the leap 
 gallantly, clearing the circling vortex below, 
 and diving some way, reappeared, and went 
 down the Stream. Others came floundering 
 over into the foaming Whirlpool, like some 
 unlucky Riders into the Ditch the other side: 
 and where they found other flounderers, rol- 
 ling about, and carried round and round in the 
 Eddy. Soon they met, and came to logger- 
 heads, bumping and thumping each other like 
 fighting Porpoises ; till some King Log , would 
 give his opponent a mighty shove, which ex- 
 pelled him from the Circle, and sent him down 
 the Stream, to join the General Assemblage of 
 his Neighbours of the Forest, all waiting their 
 inevitable doom • to be quartered , or sawn 
 
 it
 
 162 
 
 asunder, and after to be burned. The voyage 
 of a Log from its native Forest to its desti- 
 nation, might afford some "Passages" analog- 
 ous to the course of human life; it has its 
 rubs and scrubs, and repeated obstructions to 
 meet, and hindrances to get over, and some- 
 times going down in full tide of prosperity, 
 and at others, basking in the Sunshine. But 
 until Tom Cringle's Log is forgotten, I think' 
 it would be better for all other Logs to re- 
 main silent. 
 
 One Morning, when I was thus amusing 
 myself, I saw one of the Salt Boats which 
 are at least 50 feet long , come out from a 
 bend of the River, and from the attitude the 
 four Men in it assumed , and their crossing 
 themselves, I was assured they were going 
 over the Fall. I confess that I felt my heart 
 beat lor their safety; however on it came 
 crest erect, till half its length advanced high 
 over the Fall; when losing its equilibrium, 
 down it came with its Prow splash into 
 the water, tilting up its helm, and the two
 
 163 
 
 men steering, high into the air, as if to say, 
 £i D — 1 take the hindmost"; hut in a moment, 
 the rapidity of the current brought down the 
 helm into the stream below, and on they went 
 again in horizontal unity. I recollect also 
 being much diver' ed one morning, when the 
 waters were abated, at seeing two old Wo- 
 men in the River considerably above their 
 knees, washing an enormous Pig. The shrieks 
 of the Animal were horribly piercing, and 
 its struggles to get away most violent. At 
 last it piggishly upset one of the Ladies into 
 the stream, but she, by the assistance of her 
 associate, soon recovered her perpendicular ; 
 however the great Unwashed escaped down 
 the River, and landing at the first slope of 
 the bank, trotted home to his mire, grunting 
 with indignation at the treatment he had re- 
 ceived. I fancy Pigs have as great an anti- 
 pathy to cold water, as Cats, or a London 
 Hackney Coachman. 
 
 The weather now became fine and cheerful 
 again* and we were cheered also by the cer-
 
 164 
 
 tainty of the young Emperors coming to cele- 
 brate his Mothers Fete. A day or two before 
 that event, on returning from my afternoon 
 walk, I saw them preparing an Arch of Ever- 
 greens at the entrance of the Esplanade; and 
 the next morning when taking an early stroll. 
 I was nearly rode over by a Horseman tear- 
 ing along \ waving his hat, and crying " he 
 is coming, he is coming"; and they had scar- 
 cely time to form the avenue of green Peasants, 
 each with a large bough in his hand, when an 
 open Calash drawn by two Horses, and pre- 
 ceded by an Outrider, drove rapidly up with 
 two young Men in it, the Emperor and one of 
 his Brothers. I had seen the young Emperor 
 at Vienna, heading the Procession of the Corpus 
 Domini, and had been much prepossessed by 
 his Appearance , and this prepossession was 
 confirmed at Ischl. He is a tall, fine, good- 
 looking young Man, and his countenance 
 bespeaks a good heart, and that if left to 
 pursue the dictates of that heart, he will make 
 a good Emperor.
 
 165 
 All were now busied in preparing for the 
 grand illuminations, which were to celebrate 
 the Fete. Fortunately the Evening was fine, 
 and the illumination shewed itself to the best 
 advantage. Some of the Villas just out of the 
 Town were very brilliantly lighted up, par- 
 ticularly the Villa Sickengen, and also the 
 Public Establishments. The Bridge had a very 
 pretty appearance with its rows of colored 
 Lamps, and from it, the long Vista of colored 
 Lamps up and down the River, and reflected 
 by the passing Current, had a very charming 
 effect. Indeed all the Houses blazed with lo- 
 yalty , except the Grand Hotel, which was 
 thrown completely in the shade by the sur- 
 rounding brightness, and its long dark Front 
 appeared from the Bridge, Monstrum, ingens. 
 cut lumen ademptum; but to save their Credit, 
 one of the two florin engravings of the young 
 Emperor, was exposed in the centre of the 
 large Bow Window, with a Candle on each 
 side, to do honor to it. At London every Win- 
 dow would have been smashed in. Mv Hotel
 
 166 
 
 the Poste was glaring with light and loyalty, 
 and Banners floated from every Window. A 
 large transparency of Plenty with a huge Cor- 
 nucopia, and a long German Motto beneath, 
 was placed above the Entrance, and attracted 
 crowds of admirers. The Painting was not too 
 good , nor was the Plenty outside, I thought, 
 very typical of the Plenty within, unless well 
 paid for. 
 
 But these hours of idleness were not to 
 last for ever; I had duties to perform in a 
 distant part, and my Holidays drew near their 
 termination. But before quitting this part of 
 the World, I resolved to make a short excur- 
 sion, and visit Gmunden once more; not only 
 to see the worthy Captain again, but to dis- 
 possess my mind of its prejudices against the 
 Hotel there. I found the Valley more charming 
 than ever, and on arriving at Ebensee, I could 
 see from a distance, the countenance of the 
 Captain more glowing than ever with good 
 humour, and exposure to the Summer's sun: 
 and grinning with pleasure , when he hailed
 
 167 
 
 me as one of the Passengers. The Sail across 
 the Lake appeared more delightful than before, 
 and the point round the Traunkirchen more 
 beautiful than any thing I had seen ; and the 
 approach to the Town so striking, that I re- 
 pented not to have made the excursion from 
 Ischl more frequently. I found the Landlord 
 surly as usual, poor Rosa looked care worn, 
 and as if wearied with smiling. I asked for a 
 Chamber at the price I had given at Salzburg, 
 Aussee, and Ischl for good ones ; He called a 
 servant to shew me one which resembled a 
 large wine bin ; and the next morning, I was 
 charged for a supper, altho' I had only taken 
 Coffee. It is a pity there is not a better Hotel at 
 this charming place, where there are so many 
 attractions for the Visitor. 
 
 On this my second visit to Gmunden, I could 
 not but remark, that the Females justly merit 
 the reputation they have obtained for personal 
 charms. For many weeks I had been accusto- 
 med to the Female Peasantry of the Mountains 
 and Valleys, who certainly are very ill favored,
 
 168 
 
 with smoke dried complexions , bad teeth, and 
 many, with the dreadful goitrous conformation, 
 in numerous cases horribly developed. Even 
 some of the young females, betray symptoms 
 of the approaching deformity. But most of the 
 Women at Gmunden have fine complexions, 
 small regular features, and good teeth; and 
 one is surprised to find at so short a distance, 
 such a perfect contrast in personal appearance. 
 On my return to Ischl, I found a Letter 
 from an estimable Friend , which gave me 
 another fortnights holiday; and I could not 
 resist availing myself of the opportunity to visit 
 Bad Gastein, of which so many Visitors had 
 spoken in raptures, and also of the Pass Lueg, 
 Werfen , and Lendner Waterfall , which one 
 passes en route to Bad Gastein ; I had nothing 
 to do but to pack up, pay my bill, and take a 
 place to Salzburg, and run up to Smallnau to 
 take my leave, and farewell cup of tea. I shall 
 drop the curtain before the parting interview 
 between Dachstein, Marie, and myself. She gave 
 me a flower and a kiss on the hand, I gave her
 
 169 
 
 (I forget how much), and a hearty English 
 shake of the hand. I often wondered after- 
 wards, who was the Landlord of the Poste* 
 where I had heen staying so many weeks. 
 Franz, the head Waiter was the Factotum, and 
 ruled the roast, and boiled likewise I imagine ; 
 for he ordered every thing, and allotted each 
 his Chamber^ and fixed the price. There were 
 many who appeared to belong to the Establish- 
 ment, but no apparently recognized Master or 
 Mistress* I rather think that Ihe rosy, round 
 faced, curly light haired, youngish looking Man, 
 whom I often saw rubbing his hands at the 
 Entrance, and two Children clinging to his 
 knees, was the Master, but he never saluted 
 any one. The Hotel is only open for six Months 
 in the Year; at the latter of October it is shut 
 up, and Master, Mistress, Men and Maids se- 
 parate each to their Winter Quarters, and bid 
 as I do, 
 
 Adieu to Ischl.
 
 170 
 
 liboa) u<xdteitt. 
 
 It commenced to rain just as I was leav- 
 ing Ischl, and it was raining when I arrived 
 at Salzburg, and continued to pour down with- 
 out intermission for two days. In the evening 
 of the second day , we had some Arrivals 
 from Bad Gastein, who informed us that it did 
 not rain there, but that it snowed heavily. Pre- 
 ferring the novelty of Snow, to the wearisome 
 sameness of Rain, I determined to lose no 
 more time, and took my place for Bad Gastein 
 by the Malle Poste at 7 the next morning. I 
 fortunately had a very agreeable companion 
 as my fellow Passenger, the Son of Mr. Jugel. 
 the celebrated Bookseller and Publisher at
 
 171 
 
 Frankfort who speaking English well , and 
 being very lively and amusing, the gloomy 
 Weather lost its effect, and I enjoyed my jour- 
 ney extremely. After leaving Golling, altho' 
 cooped up in theMalle Poste, and the rain still 
 falling, the beautiful scenery on each side could 
 be sufficiently seen to keep alive our attention, 
 and give interest to the dirty splashing road. 
 On the summit of the Hill beyond the Oefen 
 of which I have already spoken, we see before 
 us the Pass Lueg at the bottom of a steep long- 
 descent, and on reaching it, we enter on a long- 
 Gallery beautifully constructed along the side 
 of the steep Mountain on the left, and on the 
 right, deep below, the rapid River Salza flows 
 by the base of the Mountain opposite. All Pas- 
 ses of this kind are very interesting, some of 
 course much more so than others, and depend- 
 ing greatly upon the difficulties the perse- 
 vering hand of Man has had to surmount , in 
 rendering such Passages secure for the Tra- 
 veller. This Pass Lueg is indebted to the 
 scenes of bloody combat it has witnessed, as
 
 172 
 
 well as to its romantic scenery, for the interest 
 it excites. 
 
 The route continues thro' a fine verdant 
 Country, till we come in sight of the Fortress 
 of Werfen, beautifully situated high on an Emi- 
 nence commanding all around , and on which 
 the eve rests till the Malle Poste arrives at the 
 
 d 
 
 Town of Werfen, where the other side of the 
 Fortress presents itself, still as strikingly grand 
 and imposing. But here in Werfen we have 
 another object grander still ; the stupendous 
 Mountain the Tannenberg, which frowns over 
 the Town, and whose rugged Summit 6000 feet 
 high, defyingly challenges the daring adventu- 
 rer to attempt to reach, but which has been 
 reached repeatedly, according to the Landlord. 
 There is a very good dinner at the Hotel, and 
 sufficient time allowed to enj y it , before 
 being summoned by the Conductor. 
 
 On the road after leaving Werfen , I was 
 much struck with the beauty of the verdant 
 Terraces which rise at a little distance on 
 each side: formed by Nature as artistically as
 
 173 
 
 by the hand of the most skilful Gardener, nor 
 could the slopes at Windsor be kept in better 
 order, or display a finer carpet of Turf, or a 
 more elegant tournure of form. The Mountain 
 Ash, with its boughs laden with red Berries., 
 appeared every where gracefully hanging over, 
 and on the sides of these Terraces. 
 
 On reaching St. Johann, my Companion got 
 out to light his Cigar at the Inn w! ere we 
 changed horses, and on reentering, he appeared 
 much amused, which I found to be at the ex- 
 pence of a Countryman of mine whom he had 
 seen in the Inn. This Englishman had been 
 stopthere by the rain, and had made up his mind 
 not to budge until the weather had cleared 
 up. He had already been in this dull place 
 three days ; and he told Mr. J that the evening 
 be'ore, he had gone to bed at 8 o' Clock, and 
 had remained in it till 2 in the afternoon when 
 we arrived, for the sake of variety. 
 
 We went on until the MallePoste halted on 
 the Bridge of Lend, to give the Passengers a 
 few moments to see the celebrated Waterfall
 
 174 
 
 of that name, foaming down the Precipice on 
 our left. The e few moments were very tan- 
 talizing and mad j us more anxious to enjoy 
 the beautiful sight longer ; but we were late, 
 and had still far to go, a long ascent to climb, 
 and it was desirable to pass thro' the narrow 
 Galleries, cut in the rock, known by the name 
 of the Klana Pass, with a little light if pos- 
 sible. After changing Horses at the Inn the 
 other side of the River, we recrossed and 
 immediately began to ascend the Mountain. 
 Some w r ay up we approached the brink of the 
 deep Gulph between the cleft Mount nn, down 
 which, the River dashed from Fall to Fall, in 
 a perpetual foam, and of course the higher we 
 mounted, the deep Profound became deeper 
 still, and every moment added additional Gran- 
 deur to the Scene. When we arrived on the 
 highest Gallery, the evening was just closing, 
 and the gloom which succeeded a w 7 et and dark 
 day, gave an awfully sublime aspect to the 
 Abyss, over which we drove on Planks let 
 into the perpendicular Mountain on the right.
 
 175 
 
 and which actually bent and shook under the 
 wheels of our Carriage in passing over them, 
 I must own I was glad when we reached Terra 
 Ferma, and a wider road. There were at that late 
 hour many Workmen repairing the Galleries, 
 the supports of which had given way, in con- 
 sequence of the heavy Rains having loosened 
 the soil below, on the steep declivity on which 
 they rested. The Hot Baths of Bad Gastein 
 having being known, and in repute for many 
 Ages, there has been a communication bet- 
 ween them and the main Road from time im- 
 memorial, but not until the year 1534 was 
 there a regular Road established by means of 
 this Pass, which takes its name from the old 
 Castle of Klamstein, built in the eleventh Cen- 
 tury, and inhabited by the ancient Family of 
 Pielstone, then Lords of the Land around. 
 
 We passed thro' Dorf Gastein and Hof Ga- 
 stein in the dark, and it was Midnight when 
 we reached Bad Gastein. I shall never forget 
 the feelings of astonishment and delight which 
 the first view of that Cataract close to the
 
 176 
 
 Hotel excited: and really the darkness ail around 
 served to give that tall, rushing Form, enve- 
 loped in its perfectly white sheet of foam, a 
 supernatural appearance. The drawings I had 
 seen had prepared me to expect a fine Cascade, 
 but I had no idea I should find it as it was. No 
 doubt the heavy rains had swollen the River 
 above, and increased its furious precipitancy 
 down the Fall. We fortunately found Chambers 
 which had been vacated in the day by Depar- 
 tures, for altho' late in the Season, the Hotel 
 was still a'most full. During the previous 
 Months, there had been such an Influx of Vi- 
 sitors, that not only had the Hotels and private 
 Houses been thronged, butHof Gastein, altho' so 
 far distant, had been filled. The sleepy Waiter 
 roused himself to give some of us our Tea. 
 and others their Supper. When I retired to my 
 bed. tired as I was, and late as it was, I could 
 not sleep for the overpowering noise of the 
 roaring Cataract, and I found myself likewise 
 so cold, that I was glad to replace the Eider- 
 down Bed on my feet, that I had thrown off so
 
 177 
 
 disdainfully. In the morning I sallied out in 
 my usual English costume, but the cold air 
 sent me back to put on my warm comfort- 
 able Pea Jacket. The Mountains were all 
 covered with snow altho but in the middle of 
 August, and the Atmosphere as chilly, and the 
 general appearance of Nature as Wintry, as 
 in the middle of December. The Visitors were 
 all anxiously waiting for the return of the 
 line Weather, and the renewal of their Walks 
 and enjoyments in this beautiful Region. 
 
 This Bad Gastein must be a charming 
 Resort in the Summer Months. Here, the In- 
 valid in search of good Air, or relief from 
 certain Maladies, breathes in an Element pure 
 and invigorating, for he is nearly 3000 feet 
 above the Sea level, and besides, he has the 
 Hot Baths, for many Ages celebrated for their 
 beneficial effects , especially in cases of Pa- 
 ralysis, Rheumatic Affections, disordered Ner- 
 ves, and imperfect circulation of Blood. For 
 the Tourist in search of the sublime and beau- 
 tiful, there are Mountains, and Valleys. Cas- 
 
 12
 
 178 
 
 cades, the wild and romantic Recesses , and 
 Beauties of Nature to explore in endless va- 
 riety in the Region around. For these, and 
 for the Majority of Visitors to the Continent, 
 who come out in search of change of scene 
 and for amusement, there are the comforts, and 
 gaities of a large Hotel, full of Guests, an- 
 xious to please, and be pleased, the imme- 
 diate Environs affording charming Rambles, and 
 Prospects, and at a little distance, interesting 
 Places and Objects to be visited , and every 
 facility for visiting them at small expence. 
 The annexed little Drawing will give the Rea- 
 der some idea of the spot on which the Vi- 
 sitor is domiciled, during his or her stay, 
 but it is a very imperfect sketch of the beau- 
 tiful Reality. The large Building is Stau- 
 binger's Hotel, which, from the wooden House 
 one reads of, is become the large substantial 
 well built Establishment one sees. There must 
 be many Chambers, and private sitting Rooms, 
 for I saw many Corridors, and Galleries, with 
 Apartments on each side. On the Ground
 
 179 
 
 floor, an Entrance Hall, and on the right , a 
 fine capacious Salle a Manger, in which there 
 is a Table d'Hote at one o' Clock , for 50 
 Croitzers, but rather on the Abstinence sy- 
 stem. Altho getting late in the Season, I 
 counted upwards of a Hundred at Table, and 
 nearly the same number at Supper. Leading 
 from the Salle a Manger down a few stairs., 
 we come to a large Salon, well fitted up for 
 the accommodation of the Visitors, whether 
 disposed for Breakfast, or Billiards, or Cards, 
 or Conversation, or lounging, or doing nothing, 
 or reading, there being a pretty good supply 
 of Books, Newspapers &c, in short, a Sans 
 Souci sort of place, where you feel at your 
 ease, to do as you please. The long Gallery 
 seen to the right of the Hotel, commences by 
 a Corridor, built on the Arch over the Cas- 
 cade about eight Years ago, to replace the 
 slight and dangerous Bridge, which crossed 
 it formerly; and this Corridor being covered, 
 and well floored, the Spectator enjoys from 
 the Window, a commanding view of the first
 
 180 
 
 Leap of the Fall, and in the rear, the Tor- 
 rent is seen rushing down with furious course 
 over a second Fall. Further on we come to 
 the long Gallery, which is one of the most 
 charming Promenades in the World, built. 
 like our Pump Rooms, expressly for the In- 
 valid, and indeed for all the Visitors to enjoy 
 their necessary exercise in all weathers. If 
 I recollect rightly, I made 600 Paces from 
 end to end, and in it the Valetudinarian can 
 take his prescribed Walk with certainty and 
 ease, and at the same time, enjoying a great 
 variety of enchanting Views from the range 
 of Windows looking down into the Valley, 
 and which can be taken down, or put up. as 
 the state of the weather renders most desi- 
 rable. From one of the Windows in par- 
 ticular, the Cataract, which becomes contracted 
 below the Bridge at the bottom , is seen 
 rushing down with very fine effect thro' a 
 dark Ravine a great distance into the Valley 
 deep beneath. In the Afternoon, a small, but 
 excellent Band of Musicians play some choice
 
 181 
 
 selections from the best Masters, and at that 
 hour the long Gallery is crowded with Visitors. 
 Unfavorable as the Weather was, I roved 
 about, and ascended to all the Heights and 
 elevations attainable in the immediate environs 
 of Bad Gastein, and where, I generally found 
 Temples, or Seats, which in fine Weather, 
 must afford the Rambler most agreeable re- 
 sting places, and charming views. From one 
 in particular called the Gloriette , one looks 
 down into the Valley deep below, which re- 
 ceives the Ache after its long and furious des- 
 cent, and high above, are seen the towering 
 summits of the Mountains , which shut the 
 Valley in on all sides, making it appear deeper 
 still. It was with great regret I relinquished the 
 idea of exploring the Country round Bad Gas- 
 tein; but the weather still continued unfavo- 
 rable, and the Season was too advanced for 
 making excursions in these exalted Regions 
 in such weather. I penetrated some way into 
 the Valley of the Ache above the Fall, but the 
 ground was covered with Snow, and I could
 
 1^2 
 
 find no path to direct my steps, and it ap- 
 peared hazardous , as well as uninviting to 
 proceed. I must therefore leave unsung or 
 unsaid for the present, the charms of that in- 
 teresting Valley, and also Bockstein, and Nass- 
 f eld , the Pinzgau , and the most beautiful of 
 Austrian Waler Falls, the Kremler Fall, and 
 many other places and objects usually visited 
 by the Tourist, and the Lover of Nature in 
 her grandest and most sublime Form. The 
 Mountains in this district are of the highest 
 Altitude, the Gross Glockner. the Salzbacher 
 Venidiger, the Scharek, the Goldberg, all up- 
 wards of 10,000 feet, and many others, nearly 
 as high, which are all accessible to the hardy 
 and courageous Tourist. 
 
 Altho' until my departure I continued to 
 gaze upon the Cataract close to the Hotel with 
 unabated admiration and delight, yet possibly if 
 I had remained much longer, it would have lost 
 much of its attraction. It really seems a sacrilege 
 to build an Hotel so very close to such a beau- 
 tiful Object; which one gets accustomed to pass
 
 183 
 
 and repass, as an every day sort of thing, 
 and to hear the rushing noise of the FalL 
 mingled with the clattering of plates , and 
 knives and forks^ and the din of dinner Con- 
 versation. The Staubinger Family can have 
 no idea of the Wonder and admiration excited 
 by the view of a Cataract. Certainly, such a 
 beautiful variety in Creation should have to be 
 found in the Solitude, amongst the Mountains, 
 far from the habitations of Men, and its distant 
 Roar should slrike the ear of the Stranger 
 from afar, to be justly appreciated as one of 
 Natures most sublime and beautiful Handy - 
 works. 
 
 But Bad Gastein does out owe its origin to 
 the romantic charms of its Situation, nor to its 
 vicinity to the Fall, but to its numerous Hot 
 Springs. These were known in the time of the 
 Romans, and must have been highly valued by 
 those bath-loving Warriors ; and from that 
 early period to the present day, they have 
 maintained their Medicinal celebrity. There 
 have been eight Springs discovered, and each
 
 184 
 
 has its separate Name and Establishment. One 
 of them rises in the centre of the Cataract, and 
 is called the Wasserfall- Quelle (Waterfall 
 Spring. A Physician of great reputation (Dr. 
 Kiene) resides at Bad Gastein, by whose ad- 
 vice. Patients are guided in making use of 
 these Baths. I was told that on being analyzed, 
 they were found perfectly neutral, yielding 
 neither acid, nor alkiline, nor mineral results. 
 The water is beautifully clear and transparent, 
 and of a delightful degree of Heat when taking 
 a bath. From the property they possess of 
 restoring withered Flowers, (after the stems 
 have been immersed some time in them), to a 
 bloom and freshness as if just gathered . one 
 would infer, that these Springs must exercise 
 a renovating, tho' perhaps no outwardly per- 
 ceptible influence on the Human Frame. At all 
 events, the appetite is renovated after being 
 some time in the bath, and that result should satis 
 fy those whose blooming Seasons are gone by. 
 I was surprized to see by the Fremden 
 Book , what a small number of English had
 
 185 
 
 visited these Baths for many Years past; and 
 I could only account for it hy the suppo- 
 sition, that such a beautiful Summer Resort, 
 could not be known to many of the English 
 Visitors to the Continent. I observed by one 
 of the Entries, that his Grace of Devonshire 
 had inhabited the prettiest Place at Bad Gastein 
 called the Solitude, one Season ; near it, is the 
 unpretending Residence of the Archduke John, 
 who resides here with his Family during the 
 Season, and is as much beloved here, as every 
 where else. His pretty Garden adjoining his 
 House, is filled with the choicest Alpine Flo- 
 wers and Plants. 
 
 One gratification I enjoyed must not be 
 forgotten. I desired the Waiter to send me the 
 Barber. In a few minutes a tap at the door 
 announced some one, and on being opened, a 
 youngish, good looking Woman appeared with 
 the apparatus for shaving. — Sind Sie der 
 Barbier? I asked, ja mein Herr. I sat down, 
 and I suppose I blushed whilst operated upon 
 by the fair One, who performed her part dex-
 
 186 
 
 terously and smoothly. I left Bad Gastein with 
 much reluctance, and with my curiosity not 
 half satisfied, however "reasons infinite did 
 make against" my prolonging my stay, and 1 
 decided to surfeit myself of my taste for 
 Mountains, by returning through that Alpine 
 Region between Werfen and Lubiana. altho' at 
 Bad Gastein, I was dissuaded from taking that 
 route. Accordingly I took my place to Werfen 
 only, thro' which the Malle Poste passes twice 
 a week from Salzburg to Laibach. 
 
 Beautiful the Gasteiner Thai appeared as 
 I passed thro' it early in the morning, and 
 when I reached the Klam Pass, altho divested 
 of the awfully terrific aspect it wore, when I 
 came thro' it in the gloomy closing of a wet 
 day, yet it was impossible to pass thro' that nar- 
 row Gallery cut in the perpendicular Moun- 
 tain, and impending over the deep Abyss, 
 even in broad daylight, without a certain feel- 
 ing of danger, nor could one fail to do homage 
 to the surpassing skill, and indefatigable per- 
 severance . which could thus surmount , and
 
 187 
 
 enable Man to pass such formidable Barriers of 
 Nature, with ease and in security. The Fall of 
 the River down the Ravine below thro' the 
 cleft Mountains , is seen to much greater ad- 
 vantage in ascending than in descending, in 
 meeting, than in going down with it. I took 
 advantage of the half hour which the Malle 
 Poste takes to change Horses, to hasten on to 
 the Bridge facing the last Leap of the Fall, 
 but which now appeared a small affair, after 
 the Cataract at Bad Gastein , but I took leave 
 of the last Lion of this Country with regret, 
 and remounted into the Malle Poste with as 
 much resignation as I could muster. The beau- 
 tiful Terraces appeared to have been just 
 mown by the Gardener as I repassed them, and 
 the River Salza to have acquired fresh rapidity. 
 We arrived at Werfen about two o' Clock, 
 and I confess that I took my place to Villach 
 contrary to my inclination. Instead of reaching 
 my favorite Hotel at Salzburg in time for my 
 comfortable tea, the enjoyment of a ride thro" a 
 charming Country to Linz the next day, and
 
 188 
 
 then, the delightful rapid Voyage down the 
 Danube to Vienna; some days in that most 
 delightful of Cities with valued Friends . and 
 after, the rapid rail road to Laibach, I had to 
 wait many hours in a dull Town, and then, 
 the anticipation of passing many tedious hours 
 in a Carriage, moving slowly from necessity 
 thro' a Region, savage and mountainous; how- 
 ever I determined to make the best of it, by 
 making a good dinner. About 8 in the Evening, 
 the Malle Poste arrived from Salzburg . and 
 after allowing an hour for a fat Radstater to 
 make his supper, which was scarcely time 
 enough , I was summoned to turn my back 
 upon Upper Austria. We had a stupid, pudding 
 headed Conducteur , with whom I had a 
 squabble about my place, he giving my seat 
 to a Crony of the fat Radstater, but the Crony 
 being an old Man, I did not pull him out. but 
 satisfied myself with reporting the fellow at 
 the Malle Poste office at Laibach. 
 
 Soon we quitted the road leading to Bad 
 Gastein, and turned to the left up a steep Moun-
 
 189 
 
 tain, so steep, that on two or three occasions, 
 the Horses could not proceed without resting, 
 and the Carriage made a retrograde move- 
 ment , which greatly frightened the Conduc- 
 teur by whom I was seated in front ; and in 
 many after difficult Passes of this terrible 
 Route, the fellow displayed his cowardly un- 
 fitness for his Office. We reached the top in 
 safety, and at about 1 in the morning, the fat 
 Radstadter descended at his door, and no 
 doubt made a second hearty supper. After 
 leaving Radstadt, we began to ascend the 
 Radstadter Tauern 6000 feet, the summit of 
 which is seen from the Schafberg. It was 
 getting light wiien we reached that lofty 
 dreary Ridge covered with Snow ; on we 
 went, till we came to the Poste House, a mean 
 looking Place , where we found some indif- 
 ferent Coffee, on, on, up and down the Moun- 
 tains, until we arrived at Tweng, where we 
 were to dine. In the Salle a Manger there 
 was a table spread for the Passengers, and 
 noth er large one spread with half a dozen
 
 190 
 
 Taylors, stitching away, as if some naked 
 Customers were waiting for their Garments 
 to get up. Possibly the Innkeeper united the 
 two trades, or as in some places, a society 
 of Taylors went from house to house to supply 
 the yearly wardrobe. I had observed when we 
 breakfasted, that they brought a young kitten 
 just born to the Conductor the moment he 
 descended, who seemed heart and soul to be 
 occupied in forcing milk down its throat. Here 
 at Tweng where we dined . they brought a 
 young Pup. that had not yet opened its eyes, 
 and this poor little wretch, the stupid fellow 
 was gorging with food in the same manner. 
 It must have been a Mania, for almost at every 
 Relay we were kept waiting an hour whilst he 
 fed some Animal just born. I think in one in- 
 stance it was a little Owlet. To confess the 
 truth, this a most disagreeable Route : Moun- 
 tain after Mountain without end. and Valleys, 
 uninteresting and common placed succeeding 
 each other. We passed thro" Spital, where there 
 is a fine Chateau belonging to Prince Porcia
 
 191 
 
 whom I had had the honor to meet in So- 
 ciety , and I believe there are some fine 
 Churches in that Town. Here, I observed a 
 company of Shoemakers at work in the Salle 
 a Manger of the Hotel where we changed 
 Horses. 
 
 I was rejoyced when we arrived at the 
 Poste Hotel at Villach, where I found some 
 good tea, and a comfortable bed, and glad to 
 quit the worst Conveyance , and the worst 
 Conducteur I had ever met with. The fellows 
 name they told me was Haring. Instead of 
 going on to Laibach direct, I decided to make 
 a detour thro' Klagenfurt. One Omnibus leaves 
 Villach at 12 o' Clock for that Town, which 
 gave me an opportunity of seeing the first 
 mentioned, which is a respectable and lively 
 Place, and it being Sunday, the Streets w 7 ere 
 thronged with well dressed People. I entered 
 a Barbers shop for a very evident purpose. 
 The last time I had been shaved by a Woman 
 at Bad Gastein, and this time, I was lathered 
 by One. and shaved directly after by her Hus-
 
 192 
 
 band I suppose. I confess I wish this daily mi- 
 sery was inflicted upon us always by the soft 
 small hand of a Female : we should then re- 
 gard the operation as a luxury, rather than 
 the penance it now is . altho' the Practioner 
 be Figaro himself. The road between Villach 
 and Klagenfurt is almost level , and which 
 proved a most agreeable Variety , after the 
 Mountainous Route of the last two days. In 
 passing, one sees here, as throughout Austria, 
 on every elevation, and commanding position, 
 some fine Church or religious Establishment, 
 and also several fine Castles belonging to the 
 Nobility. Soon we came in sight of a very 
 large Lake, called the Werther See, and which 
 extends nearly to Klagenfurt. but which had 
 no interest for me, but as an immense sheet 
 of Water: so much do Lakes, and indeed 
 Rivers, depend on their Banks, and Borders, 
 and surrounding Scenery, for their beauty, 
 and the interest they inspire. 
 
 We arrived late at Klagenfurt. and as it 
 rained . I was obliged to sleep at the Inn
 
 193 
 
 where the Omnibus stopt. I was taken thro' 
 an immense Chamber with a dozen Beds in 
 it, to another large Chamber with many Beds 
 also. As I had no wish to sleep in Barracks., 
 1 asked for a private room, but they had 
 none, and I therefore locked my door to keep 
 others out , and descended into the Salle a 
 Manger hoping to find some Tea to refresh me. 
 Tea was not to be had, and my enquiries 
 for it, attracted all the Smokers, and Black 
 Beards and Sandy Beards towards the strange 
 Animal who required such a strange article; 
 however they gave me some good Coffee. 
 Next morning I sallied out to view the Town, 
 of which I had met en route many warm ad- 
 mirers. It is certainly a fine Town, with many 
 i andsome Churches and a Fountain celebrated 
 for something; but it was perfectly dry, and 
 Fountains without water lose the effect which 
 the Architect meant to produce. A very good 
 Coffee in the Grand Place seemed to be well 
 frequented with Habitues^ and Officers, and 
 well furnished with Newspapers, Waitresses, 
 
 13
 
 194 
 
 Cigars, Billiards <fcc. Two respectable Men 
 of about 30, who left Klagenfurt by the same 
 Malle, were kissed twice each on the two 
 cheeks, and some on the mouth, by a nu- 
 merous Acquaintance, who came to see them 
 off: and their parting seemed to indicate that 
 they had paid a most agreeable Visit; and I 
 think it very possible to like Klagenfurt, altho 
 I was so glad to proceed on my journey. 
 
 The celebrated ascent of the Leobel a 
 Mountain of more than 4000 feet is to be 
 made between Klagenlurt and Laibach. A very 
 line zig zag Road , originally made by the 
 Romans , but rendered more accessible by 
 the Austrian Government. My companion in 
 the body of the Coach, was a respectable 
 young Woman, who parted with her Husband 
 at the foot of the Mountain: when we came 
 about half way down the Mountain on the 
 other side, She, who had been absorbed in 
 her reflections, as I in mine, broke out into 
 a rapturous exclamation , and clasping her 
 hands, cried, "there it is. there it is" point-
 
 1% 
 
 ing to a little Town seen in the distance be- 
 yond the bottom of the descent, no doubt her 
 youthful habitation, and her Paradise ; and to 
 me, when I passed thro' the said Town cal- 
 led Newmarkt, one of the most uninteresting, 
 and uninviting Places I ever saw. 
 
 We arrived very late at Laibach, and I 
 found great difficulty in getting a Chamber; 
 at last at the Court of Austria, they made 
 me up a Bed in one of the dining Rooms. 
 I left the agreeable Town of Laibach the next 
 morning with a lively French Lady for my 
 travelling Companion, who amused me much 
 with her vivacity during the day ; but towards 
 the end of the journey, I very ungallantly 
 fell asleep, from which I was roused by my 
 fair Companion with a Voila Trieste^ Monsieur" 
 and there, sure enough, appeared in the Val- 
 ley deep beneath, the Lights of that fine 
 Town, with the well known lofty Lanterna 
 far out into the Sea. 
 
 After a good nights rest at the National, 
 it was with great pleasure I greeted the Hills
 
 196 
 
 at Trieste (One in particular) in the morn- 
 ing : and in spite of the impressions still so 
 fresh in my Mind and in my Eye , of the 
 charming and romantic Scenery and the mag- 
 nificent Works of Nature I had heen so long 
 and so lately living amongst. I was more than 
 ever struck with admiration at the view of 
 the beautiful Adriatic from the fine Mole, and 
 the superb Establishments and especially the 
 unparalleled Tergesteo ; the lively Corso ; but 
 more than all, with the beauty of the Wo- 
 men, who, handsome as they are, appeared 
 the more so, from the Contrast between them 
 and the Females I had had before my eyes 
 for the last three Months. 
 
 Indeed I should ill shew the respect and 
 partiality I feel for this fair City of Trieste, if 
 J contented myself with thus merely alluding 
 to it at the end of my little Work ; and I feel 
 assured that any Compatriot of mine , into 
 whose hands this little Production may haply 
 fall, will not be displeased with being enabled 
 to form some idea of this fine Town, at pre-
 
 197 
 
 sent holding a high rank among the principal 
 and most flourishing Ports of Europe , and 
 whose future Destiny cannot fail to advance it 
 to be one of the first , and most important 
 maritime Cities in this Quarter of the Globe.
 
 1MW 
 
 cilo §ketcfa of ^ueate 
 
 I was at Venice at the time of the Congress, 
 or meeting of the Scienziati in September 1847. 
 A most favorable Juncture for visiting that most 
 beautiful City; for not only did it resume its long 
 lost appearance of Prosperity and Animation, 
 but the Biglietto, which they gave every Stran- 
 ger of respectability, admitted him into every 
 Public Building and Establishment . and gave 
 him an opportunity of leisurely surveying the 
 numerous Monuments of the Glory and Splen- 
 dour of that once celebrated Republic. The 
 greatest enjoyment that Privilege afforded me 
 was, the liberty of entering when I liked., 
 and remaining as long as I liked in the
 
 199 
 
 splendid Chambers of the Ducal Palace, thro r 
 which the Stranger is generally hurried by 
 the impatient Cicerone or Custode. 
 
 There is no Interior of any Palace in 
 Europe, I should suppose more interesting 
 with respect to the Past, than that of the 
 Ducal Palace at Venice; nor any Walls if 
 they could speak, could tell more won- 
 derful tales yet unrevealed, of Scenes, Deeds, 
 and Events they have witnessed. I confess 
 that the silent and empty Salons had more 
 charms for me, than the thronged and noisy 
 ones appropriated to the different Committees ; 
 and that I passed more time in the beautiful 
 and interesting Grand Council Chamber, (where 
 I was sometimes quite alone) in gazing on 
 the Portraits of the Doges, and dwelling in 
 imagination on the Parts they had acted upon 
 the very boards on which I stood, than at- 
 tending to my Duties as one of the Scienziati. 
 I was present at many of the Discussions, 
 but there were so many Speakers , and so 
 many anxious to speak, that I thought it bet-
 
 200 
 
 ter to perform my Part as a good Listener, at 
 the same time, looking as wise as I could, and 
 as if able to throw light upon many an obscure 
 Matter if I chose. The Military Music, which 
 was played every Evening, pleased me more 
 than any thing I heard , and the nightly Illu- 
 mination on the Piazza San Marco , gave it 
 the appearance of Enchantment. I left Venice 
 before the result of the Researches and Labours 
 of so much Collective Wisdom could be known, 
 that is to say. before the Grand Tombola was 
 drawn . and the fortunate Terno announced. 
 But before quitting this side of Italy, I decided 
 to cross the Adriatic, to pay a short Visit to 
 a Friend . with whom I had passed many 
 happy days of intimacy, in a far distant City 
 of France, and now married, and living at 
 Trieste. 
 
 It was early on a beautiful morning in the 
 latter part of September, when standing on 
 the Deck of one of the splendid Steamers of 
 Lloyds Austr. Comp. . and making its way 
 gallantly thro' the glistening Waters of the
 
 201 
 
 most beautiful of Seas , I first came in view 
 of the Hills that rise frcm behind the fair 
 City of Trieste. At a great distance the lofty 
 Lanterna or Fanale, (which had long before 
 espied us, and signalized our approach), was 
 seen advancing far out into the Sea, as if to 
 meet us , and grant permission to enter the 
 Harbour, which it concealed from our View. 
 Our fine Vessel neared the Port fast, and soon 
 the commanding Citadel appeared , looking 
 down from its high Elevation with proud and 
 stern defiance, as if ever on the watch over 
 the City under its charge and protection. On 
 the sloping Hills, the numerous Country Hou- 
 ses, with their Gardens, became every mo- 
 ment more distinctly seen, attesting the opu- 
 lence of the Merchants , and their enjoyment 
 of that opulence, in such healthy, happy look- 
 ing Homes. The rapidity of our speed quiekly 
 brought us within the Harbour, and in sight 
 of the City. The first view of the numerous 
 shipping, the long extent of the fine Quays, 
 the Range of lofty handsome Houses facing
 
 202 
 
 the Harbour, the superb Hotel near the pretty 
 looking Greek Church, and above all, the busy 
 animation which prevailed everywhere on 
 Shore, even at that early hour, assured me 
 that I was come to a flourishing and important 
 City, and when I landed on the fine Mole. 1 
 thanked my Stars for having brought me to it, 
 After a comfortable warm bath at the then 
 Hotel Metternich. and a good Breakfast in one 
 of the pleasant Chambers facing the Port and 
 the Sea, I sallied out to find my Friend's 
 Domicile. Anxious as I was to see him after 
 a long absence, I could not refrain when I 
 came on the fine and lively Corso, from going 
 to the end. nor from loitering on that very 
 striking part . where one side so gracefully 
 recedes . as if to give place and space for 
 the grandiose Portico of the old Bourse , and 
 the magnificent Front of its successful Rival, 
 the Tergesteo, to shew themselves to the best 
 advantage. Already the Windows of the fine 
 Magazines were dressed out, with their display 
 of rich and tempting Novelties , and costly
 
 203 
 
 Ornaments, and there were many fair Wearers 
 of such Gear already abroad in the Streets, 
 and in the Shops, whose genteel appearance, 
 fine eyes , and handsome expressive faces, 
 gave me as a Stranger, an assurance of the 
 personal Attractions of the fair Daughters of 
 Trieste ; and when I found my Friend, I con- 
 gratulated him on having fixed his Residence, 
 in one of the most apparently agreeable, and 
 desirable Cities I had ever visited. 
 
 I passed a very happy fortnight with my 
 Friends, who took me to all the most pleasant 
 Resorts in the Environs. We went to Opschina 
 to take the air, to Servola to eat Oysters, to 
 the Boschetto to take our Coffee, and to St. An- 
 drea to take our Stroll ; and when my Friend 
 came to take me to either, he was always sure 
 to find me on the Mole, looking out on the blue, 
 tranquil Waters cf the beautiful Adriatic. I re- 
 garded all I saw, as a Stranger enjoying a 
 transient View of a Place he visits for the first 
 and last time, and was preparing for my depar- 
 ture, but my Destiny had ordered otherwise.
 
 204 
 
 The Reader would not much care to be 
 told, why, in A D. 1850, I am still in Trieste, 
 nor would I intrude farther on his notice 
 and patience, had I not to speak of a very 
 interesting and eventful Period, and of the 
 Constancy, and Patriotism displayed in con- 
 vulsed and perilous times, by a large City, 
 and numerous and sensitive Community, which, 
 altho in itself divided and agitated by conflict- 
 ing Prepossessions and Polities , yet unani- 
 mously united in Devotion to the Public Good, 
 the support of existing Authorities, and main- 
 tenance of order and Tranquillity. And History 
 will record, that whilst every other important 
 City of Italy, had thrown off allegiance to its 
 Government, and was a Prey to Commotion 
 and Violence , and even the Capital of the 
 Empire exibited scenes of Insurrection and 
 Tumult, the City of Trieste remained un- 
 moved and unscathed by the Revolutions and 
 Convulsions round her, and became in fact a 
 City of Refuge to the Stranger, and to all who 
 fled from Persecution and Danger,
 
 205 
 
 I had fixed the day for my Departure, when 
 my Friends most unexpectedly received a Let- 
 ter, which called them to England on some 
 domestic Matters, and they proposed to me to 
 reside in their House, and preside over their 
 Establishment in their Absence. Leading a 
 Nomade sort of Life, and having no fixed 
 Home, and as their House was very comfor- 
 table, and contained a choice selection of 
 Books, and their Establishment easy to govern, 
 consisting of a Canary, which sang most char- 
 mingly, and a English Housekeeper, who dres- 
 sed a Mutton Chop and mashed Potatoes, besides 
 cooking other English luxuries to perfection, 
 I willingly accepted their offer, and the more 
 willingly, because I had not only already con- 
 ceived a partiality for the Place, but had found so 
 many agreeable and friendly Compatriots here. 
 Behold me then, and you with me dear patient 
 Reader, Booked for the Winter, which I will 
 make as short, and as little tedious as possible. 
 
 I had happily brought with me Letters of 
 Introduction to two of the Principal Mer-
 
 206 
 
 chants, which immediately placed me on terms 
 of intimacy with two of the best and kindest 
 of Friends., and with the remainder I soon 
 scraped acquaintance, and became one of the 
 cozing Coterie at our daily Rendezvous at the 
 Tergesteo. I had now time to indulge myself 
 in my favorite Promenade up and down the 
 fine Mole, and watching the Arrival and Depar- 
 ture of the many Ships and Steamers. I like- 
 wise, often made one of the Loungers on the 
 lively Corso, gazing at the splendid Nouveau- 
 tes, and pretty articles of Bijouterie , and the 
 knicknacks in the Windows, and admiring like- 
 wise (in a Pickwickian point of view) the fair 
 Promenaders, whose attractive Presence ren- 
 ders the Corso, at certain hours, one of the 
 most agreeable and lively streets in the World. 
 But let me tell, the Reader, that it is not on the 
 Mole or Corso alone if he is disposed to be 
 amused, and not too fastidious, or splenetic, 
 he can pass away some of his time agreeably. 
 There are the fine Quays , Cafes . and lively 
 Markets. Fish. Fleisch. Fruit, and Flower. (I
 
 207 
 
 myself love Fruit and Flower Markets,) and 
 last and by no means least, the Tergesteo, the 
 Strangers great Resource , of which I shall 
 speak hereafter. The City of Trieste is only 
 geographically known to the general Run of 
 Visitors to the Continent, for being separated 
 by the Sea, from the customary and beaten 
 Track, or Route pursued by Travellers and 
 Tourists, is seldom visited from motives of 
 Curiosity, Pleasure, or Health ; and owes all its 
 Life, and Animation to its own Agremens, and 
 Resources. One never sees here in the Streets, 
 as in other Cities of Italy and France, the 
 Courier tearing along, smacking his Whip to 
 announce my Lords approach, and to order a 
 fire to be lighted in his Bed Chamber; nor are 
 there to be seen in the Streets, those strange 
 specimens of English Women, in poke bon- 
 nets, and stout walking shoes, staring about, 
 and striding along, with their Husbands with 
 the Red Hand-Book under his left Arm, which, 
 one has the Mortification of seeing so often, 
 in Genoa, and Marseilles, and other Cities of
 
 208 
 
 the South. I have been often provoked in 
 those Places, in hearing my beloved Country 
 Women described, as being all of such a Class, 
 but it was by those who knew nothing about 
 them, for those who did. acknowledged the 
 real English well bred Women, to be the per- 
 sonification of gentility and loveliness, and 
 
 •'fitted, or to grace a Court , 
 or walk the Streets with unaffected ease."' 
 
 But altho few Tourists pass this way. yet 
 there are Numbers who come here on their 
 Commercial affairs . and also many English 
 en route to and from the Indies. Egypt, or 
 Syria: and one sees almost every day in the 
 Tergesteo some Strangers. Civilians or Offi- 
 cers going to join the Army in India, or coming 
 home on leave. One can distinguish those co- 
 ming home, by an appearance of wear, and 
 exposure, and also by the peculiarity of their 
 Mufti, for the Moses and Sons of Bombay, are 
 later in their fashions , than the Moses and 
 Sons of the Minories. But however dressed 
 they might be, one could not help regarding
 
 209 
 with interest and admiration those fine Fel- 
 lows, some of them Heroes, who had greatly 
 distinguished themselves, and had gained their 
 Laurels under a burning Sun , and at the 
 Cannon's Mouth. Many likewise passed thro' 
 to Egypt , or Syria , either on account of 
 the Climate , or to gratify their Curiosity in 
 those interesting Countries. They generally 
 made a Halt at Trieste , finding it such a 
 fine Town, and such a resource in the Ter- 
 gesteo, where we soon became acquainted. 
 I was much amused with one of those Tra- 
 vellers, who was going to Egypt in search 
 of a hot Sun, and Curiosities. I dont know 
 whether he had taken this Route in pre- 
 ference to others for the purpose, but he 
 was exceedingly anxious to see those mar- 
 vellous St. Anthony's Pigs, of which Murray 
 speaks in his Hand-Book; but no one at the 
 Hotel or elsewhere could satisfy his curio- 
 sity about them, for in fact, no one had 
 ever heard of them. In his extremity, he 
 applied to our Consul for information , but 
 
 14
 
 210 
 
 that good worthy Man knew nothing of such 
 Gentry; nor could a young intelligent and 
 active Friend of mine , after making many 
 enquiries, make head or tail of those privi- 
 leged Animals. Since I have been at Trieste. 
 I have never seen a live Pig, and I suppose 
 Ihere are thousands of the Inhabitants^ who 
 have never heard the sweet Music of that 
 Quadruped , or have seen it u lovely in its 
 life;" for those and all other Animals are 
 executed outside the Town, and the Bodies 
 only admitted within. But I must leave to 
 Hand Books, Guide Books, (Sec. <fcc, to amuse 
 their Readers after their manner, and to des- 
 cribe in their methodical Routine, the Chur- 
 ches, Streets, Establishments, Hotels of this 
 Town, for I cannot spare a line from the few 
 that remain , but to say a few words about a 
 favorite Resort, and most agreeable Resource 1 
 have found in this Town; and which, is as 
 much appreciated by all others, as it is by me. 
 I have already spoken in a cursory 
 manner of the Tergesteo , the Front of
 
 211 
 
 which, the Reader sees in the little Engraving 
 in the Title Page, and into which he will find 
 wide Entrances from the Street, in the Centre of 
 each of the four Sides. He will come into a 
 light, airy, wide Gallery, or Arcade, beauti- 
 fully paved with flags of fine Granite, or rather 
 Marble, and lighted by a lofty glazed Roof. 
 This Gallery crosses at right angles the Ground 
 Floor of this immense Edifice ; and is at pre- 
 sent, with the different Salons to the Right and 
 Left, applied to the Commercial purposes of the 
 City; and is used by the Merchants and Tra- 
 ders of all denominations, as their Bourse or 
 Exchange. Altho there may be larger and 
 more imposing Exchanges in some of the 
 Capitals of Europe, the Merchant could not I 
 think , find a more convenient as well as 
 agreeable Place for meeting his Connexions 
 and Friends, and transacting his Business, than 
 in this charming Gallery, and the public and 
 privale Salons adjoining. The Tables in the 
 Reading Salons are covered with Newspapers 
 from every Country in Europe, and Foreign
 
 212 
 
 Paris, and in every Language; and one reads 
 them with great comfort in these well lighted 
 Salons, and on such agreeable seats. This 
 Establishment is always open from an early 
 hour in the morning till 11 in the Evening, to 
 the great comfort and enjoyment of the Sub- 
 scribers, some of whom. I really believe, pass 
 the greater part of their days in it. At the 
 hour of Exchange, from V 2 past 12 to % past 
 1, the Gallery and Salons are crowded, and at 
 that time, there must be at least twelve hund- 
 red Persons of all Nations, and Costumes. At 
 that hour the English are in great force, and 
 among them several Drones, who must much 
 annoy the Bees on many occasions, and I am 
 sure the anxious Broker hovering near his 
 Principal, must often begrudge the time and 
 attention paid to the piquant sallies, and plea- 
 santries of several well known Characters 
 there. Into this Establishment Strangers can 
 enter without fear of being regarded as In- 
 truders, and if remaining some time, the sig- 
 nature of a Subcriber will give him the Entree
 
 213 
 
 for 3 Months. The celebrated Lloyds Printing 
 Establishment occupies a long Range and many 
 Offices on the first Story, and on the other 
 side on the second Story, the Lloyds Austriaco 
 hold their seat of Government, with the nu- 
 merous Departments for the Direction and 
 Management of their important Concerns and 
 mighty Fleet, besides their Offices and Depots 
 on the Ground Floor. In another Part, the 
 Lloyds Assurance Company has established 
 itself, and there are yet numerous Suites of 
 Apartments, and private Offices, and Magazines 
 in this immense Edifice, of which the Secre- 
 tary of the Establishment will give you full 
 particulars. 
 
 The Triestines have other Resources be- 
 sides the Tergesteo. Of course there are here 
 as in every other City of Italy and France, 
 Cafes and Restaurants of different Grades. 
 My favorite Cafe has ever been that of the 
 Specchi, which, altho not grand nor lofty nor 
 much ornamented has something within it that 
 surpasses show, an air of graceful Comfort.
 
 214 
 
 The Cafe Tommaso is the most frequented, 
 especially in the Summer, to hear the Military 
 Music played there in the Evening. There are 
 also four Casinos, Nobile (or Vecchio), Te- 
 desco. Greek, and Commercial. The Casino 
 Tedesco occupies a very fine Suite of Rooms, 
 very handsomely fitted up, and is altogether 
 a very charming Establishment. The three 
 roaring Fires in English Grates, which are 
 kept up during the Winter, are worth the 
 twenty Florins one pays for the Years sub- 
 scription ; and I can assure the Reader, that 
 these Salons with their brilliant Lights , and 
 their fine inlaid Floors , (fine Brussels Car- 
 pets would be much better) and the different 
 Parties at play, and the aforesaid roaring Fires, 
 form a very agreeable Contrast when one 
 enters at Night from the cold Streets. During 
 the Heat of Summer, the Subscribers have a 
 most delightful, luxurious Lounge, in their 
 lofty, large. Elegant Ball Room, always cool 
 and airy, where they read their Newspaper or 
 play their games of Cards or Chess, or take
 
 215 
 
 their Coffee, Ices or Siesta, and waited on by 
 the politest Waiters in Italy. In the Carnival 
 Balls are given by the Subscribers to the Wives 
 and Daughters of their Friends, (their own 
 have a vested right to come) and then, there 
 is a brillant Display , and the whole range of 
 Apartments blazes with Beauty and Brightness. 
 The Casino Nobile occupies the suite of Rooms 
 under that of the Tedesco , and presents the 
 same appearance of Taste and Elegance, and 
 regard to Comfort and Enjoyment. 
 
 The greatest Drawback to the enjoyment 
 of Life at Trieste is the great scarcity, and 
 indeed the total absence of agreeable Coun- 
 try Walks in the immediate Environs. That of 
 St. Andrea is a very pleasant one by the side 
 of the Sea ; but it is too much of a Promenade, 
 as is that of the Boschetto, and one sighs for 
 the variety of green fields, and shady walks, 
 and temporary retirement from the Pave and 
 a noisy Population. This St. Andrea is the 
 Hyde Park of Trieste, and at the fashionable 
 Hours, crowded with fair Promenaders and
 
 216 
 
 their Escorts. The Drive at the side, presents 
 sometimes two lines of very respectable 
 Equipages , and several of the Turns Out 
 a VAnglaise very stylish, as well as elegant. 
 The Winter now began to give Signals 
 of its speedy approch. On returning home one 
 afternoon, I found the Jalousies removed, and 
 in their Place an outside Window; the first 
 precaution of the kind against cold I had 
 ever seen. On expressing my opinion that it 
 was useless, the simple reply was, wait till 
 the Bora comes, and then say whether you 
 think it useless. I had heard much of this 
 "Blustring Railer*', and I confess that I longed 
 to know whether he was stronger than his 
 twin Brother, the Mistral, whom I had often 
 met at Marseilles. After giving several times 
 note of its coming, about the middle of De- 
 cember, it sounded its arrival in the Neigh- 
 bourhood of Opschina, where it established 
 its Winter Quarters, and blew down upon the 
 Town, (according to an excellent Friends 
 Meteorological report) 56 days without in-
 
 217 
 
 termission, and with a fury inconceivable by 
 those who have never felt it. On one of those 
 days, my good Housekeeper slyly left the out- 
 side Window open without my perceiving it, 
 and on my complaining of the unusual cold- 
 ness of the Room, she advised me to have the 
 outside Window closed ; and then I was con- 
 yinced of the difference between the single 
 and double Glass Protection. 
 
 During the continuance of the Bora, one 
 heard nothing but complaints against it, and it 
 appeared to be considered as one of greatest 
 Evils of the City, and the greatest drawback 
 to the comfort and enjoyment of Life. Cer- 
 tainly it is a most rude Visitor and the great 
 violence of its Character often produces ef- 
 fects greatly to be deplored. Not content 
 with blowing Trees and sometimes Chimnies 
 down, and Tiles off the Houses, and keeping 
 many an impatient Captain when in sight of 
 the City, from entering the Port for many days, 
 and various other mischievous Vagaries ; it 
 blows a young Lady's Ringlets out of Curl
 
 218 
 
 and rudely blows about the petticoats of an 
 Unprotected Female, and obliges her to cling 
 lo a Post for security; and almost blows off 
 his legs and against a House, some good 
 Fellow returning home after supping with his 
 Friends. But let me remind these, and all 
 other Complainants , of the universal Prayer 
 in the time of the Cholera, for the return of 
 the much abused Bora, (that mighty Agent 
 of a Protecting Providence , ) to repel the 
 baleful Sirocco, and dispel into thin Air, the 
 noxious Gases, and the Pestilential Vapours, 
 which the fell Monster breathed over the 
 City, the inhaling of which, was Death to 
 many thousands. 
 
 For my part I love the Bora. It acts upon 
 me as a "Spirit of Health, bringing airs from 
 Heaven." and altho I have found it difficult to 
 bear up against when returning home , yet 
 once there . its tremendous Roaring against 
 my Windows, w r as to me the Music of the fi- 
 nest Wind Istrument I ever heard. It must 
 be ow r ned that the cold was most intense.
 
 219 
 
 and made the poor Bachellor sigh for the 
 Carpets and cheerful Fires of a comfortable 
 English Chamber. That there are numerous 
 attractions to draw and keep the English on 
 the Continent is not to be denied , but to 
 come to the south of France , ( excepting 
 Hyeres.) or to most parts of Italy, to esc pe 
 the cold of Winter, is now I believe, gene- 
 rally acknowledged to be a great Farce. 
 
 However in time the Bora being exhausted, 
 reposed to lake breath; the Days became 
 longer, and the Sun more powerful, and we 
 had reached the beginning of February. At 
 that time , every Newspaper from France 
 teemed with angry Discussions in the Cham- 
 bers, and contentions between the Govern- 
 ment and the People. The day approached 
 for the Reform Banquet, and a Collision was 
 to be feared; and every Courier expected 
 with impatience. At length there was a total 
 cessation of Newspapers from the West, and 
 we Englishmen were without our darling Ga- 
 lignani for many days. The mysterious non
 
 220 
 
 appearance of our punctual trusty Messenger, 
 assured us that something very extraordinary 
 had happened, and the suspense gave occa- 
 sion for numerous wise surmises , and saga- 
 cious suppositions : but the most ominous 
 conjecture of the greatest Alarmist among us. 
 fell far short of the astounding reality com- 
 municated by the Telegraphic Dispatch ; "that a 
 Revolution had again broken out in Paris, that 
 Louis Philippe and his Family had fled, and 
 that a Republic had been declared." 
 
 After this Outburst, the rapidity with which 
 the Flames of Rebellion, fed and fanned by 
 the inflammatory state and spirit of the times, 
 spread over a great part of Continental 
 Europe, is now a matter of History. Every 
 day brought its reports of Insurrections, Rar- 
 ricades, and Commotions in various Cities: 
 many of which the Courier or Telegraphic 
 Dispatch unhappily confirmed. As yet the 
 Storm was heard only in the Distance, but 
 soon it was felt coming near. The Newspapers 
 from Vienna ceased to arrive, which alarmed
 
 221 
 
 the Triestenes more than all, and crowds 
 waited the arrival of the Malle Poste, to learn 
 from the Conducteur what had happened. Soon 
 it was known that an Excitement almost 
 amounting to Insurrection prevailed in the 
 loyal and tranquil City of Vienna, and that 
 Discontent against the Government had assu- 
 med such a menacing Form, that he, who had 
 so long held the reins of that Government, had 
 fled from the fearful responsibility he had 
 incurred for so many Years Misrule, and for 
 having brought the State and the Country into 
 such difficulty and danger. This sudden Flight 
 betraying a consciousness of having deserved 
 the indignation of his Country, proved at once 
 to the Triestenes , that He was no longer 
 worthy to occupy the high place in public 
 estimation, they had held him and assigned 
 him, and an instantaneous Impulse led them to 
 make the only popular display of Self Will 
 during the eventful Period, that of demanding, 
 that their Grand Hotel should no longer bear 
 the name of Metternich. As soon as possible
 
 222 
 
 a long Board concealed the proud Characters 
 deepen graven in the hard Granite, and in the 
 Morning one read roughly written on that 
 Board. "Hotel National.'" The Directors of the 
 Tergesteo had wisely testified their own 
 change of regard, by taking down that fine 
 Portrait of the Minister in his Robes of State, 
 which met the Eye on entering the Principal 
 Reading Salon , and substituted that of the 
 good, but hitherto ill advised Emperor. 
 
 All eyes were now turned towards Vienna, 
 and every night Crowds waited the arrival of the 
 Malle Poste; many of them, in their impatience, 
 went some way to meet it. A night or two 
 after , when asleep in my Chamber at the 
 Hotel, (for my Friends had returned from Eng- 
 land) I was awakened by the sound of Mili- 
 tary Music and Hurrahing in the Streets: and 
 on looking out, I saw the Houses illuminated, 
 and throngs of People about, at that late or 
 rather early Hour. Soon a long Procession 
 headed by a Military Band, playing God save 
 the Emperor, passed under my Window, and
 
 223 
 
 I naturally concluded, that good news had ar- 
 rived from Vienna by that Nights Mail. In the 
 morning I was told that the Courier had 
 brought intelligence, that the Emperor had is- 
 sued an Edict promising a Const tution to the 
 Empire and Lombardy ; and that the Discon- 
 tent and Disaffection of the Viennese had 
 turned into unbounded joy, and public testi- 
 monies of Loyalty and Gratitude. The Edict 
 proclaimed the immediate formation of a Na- 
 tional Guard , the Abolition of the Censorship 
 of the Press, and that a Convocation of Dele- 
 gates from all the States of the German, Scla- 
 vonian and Lombardo - Venetian Kingdoms 
 would be summoned. The next day, the In- 
 habitants of Trieste were invited to form a 
 National Guard; and immediately were to be 
 seen all Classes of every Denomination, Politics 
 and Nation hastening forward to enrol them- 
 selves . and to demand Arms for the defence 
 of the City and State, from any possible danger. 
 And now the drill superseded all commercial 
 affairs, and the sound of the drum drowned the
 
 224 
 
 fearful speculations of the apprehensive. It was 
 very amusing to see the Groups of young Men 
 filled with martial ardour* forming rank and 
 file, and inarching for the sake of the thing, 
 thro' the crowds of admiring young Ladies : for 
 there were always Assemblages in the Streets, 
 and among them numbers of the Fair Sex 
 regarding with interest the March of Events, 
 and their Fathers Brothers and perhaps Lo- 
 vers marching by. with the deadly Musket 
 resting on their Arms. 
 
 I was preparing to leave Trieste at this in- 
 teresting Period , and to return to my for.cer 
 place of abode on the other side of Italy: 
 expecting to find the Cities, thro which I had 
 to pass tranquillized and restored to order by 
 the Concessions which had been granted. 
 
 But they had been granted too late : the 
 Spirit of Rebellion had taken fast hold on the 
 passions of the People: and a universal deter- 
 mination to cast off the domination of Austria, 
 repelled every Overture of Reconciliation and 
 Concession. Soon the news came that the
 
 225 
 
 Milanese after an obstinate Fight of five days 
 in their Streets, had compelled the Austrians 
 to retire, and had established a Provisional 
 Government composed of its own Citizens, 
 and on the same day, Venice had, almost with- 
 out a struggle, been given up by the Austrian 
 Governor to its own Inhabitants and its own 
 Contraul. All communication between Trieste 
 and the revolted Cities had now ceased, and 
 it was scarcely possible to pass thro' a Coun- 
 try, the whole extent of which was a Field 
 of Battle between the Population and the 
 Austrian Soldiers, and I was constrained to 
 remain until the Crisis had passed. 
 
 And soon the Crisis appeared approaching. 
 Rebellion spread with irresistible force like a 
 mighty Tide over the fertile Plains of Lom- 
 bardy. In every City, the tricolored Standard 
 was displayed , and the People en masse, 
 threw off allegiance to the Austrian Domi- 
 nation , whose Armies , being too weak to 
 oppose resistance , retired on all sides to 
 their own Confines, and for a time the Im- 
 
 15
 
 226 
 
 perial Brow seemed destined to wear no 
 longer the Iron Crown. The Scene of Corn- 
 hat now approached Trieste ; Palmanuova 
 within a short distance had disarmed its Gar- 
 rison and established its Independance , and 
 the contending Parties were fighting in the 
 immediate Neighbourhood. Several times some 
 of the Tergesteans reported that they had 
 heard Cannonading in the Night. 
 
 Indeed the situation of Trieste was at 
 this time very critical, and the Authorities 
 and Partizans of Austria had much cause for 
 Alarm. It was the only City of Italy that re- 
 mained firm and faithful in its adherence to 
 the House of Austria, and as yet undisturbed 
 by factious Displays, or Disorders. But it could 
 not be known whether the all pervading, and 
 all prevailing Spirit of Revolution then abroad, 
 might not have infused its dangerous prin- 
 ciples into the minds and hearts of some part 
 of the Community, and prepared them for an 
 Outbreak on the first fitting opportunity. At 
 this time, the English and French Steamers
 
 227 
 
 had brought from Venice, crowds of Stran- 
 gers; some fleeing from Danger, and others 
 bringing Danger with them. I saw in the 
 Cafes and Streets many wearing the Cala- 
 brese Hat and Cockade, but these openly pro- 
 claimed their principles, and were not half 
 so dangerous as the secret Emissaries, sow- 
 ing the seeds of Discontent and Dissaffection 
 among the People. It was not possible to 
 foresee, what effect a sudden Cry raised by 
 the Enemies of the Goverment might produce 
 upon a numerous and animated Population, 
 for whom Variety and Change have always 
 great attractions, to say nothing of the tempt- 
 ing chances and opportunities of helping them- 
 selves to what they much wanted , which 
 an Insurrectionary Tumult would afford to 
 the needy part of the Populace of a large 
 City. 
 
 During this state of suspense, there reig- 
 ned throughout a perfect tranquillity and order; 
 not a sound of triumph or fear or discontent 
 was to be heard, and altho among the res-
 
 228 
 
 pectable part of the Community, there were 
 Men of different Politics. Predilections, Na- 
 tions and Religions: yet a firm determination 
 to resist all clamourous and unconstitutional 
 Movements was evidently manifested by all: 
 and I am sure, that if any Commotion had been 
 raised, the greatest Liberal, and the most en- 
 thusiastic Italian would have been found fore- 
 most in the Ranks fighting with his Fellow 
 Citizens, Germans, Greeks, English and He- 
 brews, in maintenance of order, and in sup- 
 port of the existing Government. Rut soon an 
 opportunity arrived of ascertaining the Rias of 
 the People , and the strength of their Attach- 
 ment to the Austrian Sway. I recollect that I 
 was taking my Coffee one afternoon at the 
 Specchi , when I heard a great noise in the 
 Street, and every one rushed from the Cafe, 
 and I among them. In the Strada opposite the 
 Governors, and in the Piazza del Teatro, there 
 was a large Crowd assembled, for what pur- 
 pose I could not learn, but it had a very dan- 
 gerous appearance. Soon I heard several Cries
 
 229 
 
 of Viva la Republican and several Hats or Caps 
 were thrown into the air; but to the Honor and 
 Credit of the Multitude composed of all Clas- 
 ses, there was a general murmur of Disappro- 
 bation, and many cried Non vogliamo Repub- 
 lica ; and shortly after the Military Music was 
 heard approaching, and all hastened towards 
 it, and soon the Crowd formed their usual 
 close Column, and marched away before the 
 Band playing, God save the Emperor. I have 
 always thought since , that this Assemblage 
 had been collected by some Means by the Fo- 
 mentors of Rebellion , to strike their grand 
 Coup for exciting an Insurrectionary Move- 
 ment, but the Result had a very contrary effect, 
 and only confirmed the People in their Fidelity 
 and Devotion to the Austrian Cause ; for after 
 this Declaration of the Public Voice, the People 
 manifested more than ever their determination 
 to be governed by their present Rulers. 
 
 From this day there were continual Dis- 
 plays of Loyalty and Attachment, and altho the 
 City was proclaimed in a State of Siege, the
 
 230 
 
 Measure was taken, more as a Protection from 
 Enemies without, than implying suspicion of 
 the Inhabitants. One great Instrument employed 
 by the Authorities to keep the People conten- 
 ted and in good humour , was the frequent 
 Marching of the Military Music thro' the Streets, 
 and the Evening Playing before the Governor's. 
 We always knew when any adverse news had 
 arrived by the Band making its appearance. 
 The Populace at Trieste are more than usually 
 fond of Music as a Populace, and I really think, 
 that in the midst of any tumultuous Commotion, 
 the approach of a Band playing some popular 
 air, would soften the most angry passions, and 
 silence every insurrectionary Cry. It is always 
 a great source of pleasure to me, to see the 
 close Phalanx of what we call in England 
 Ragamuffins in long lines abreast and arm in 
 arm, before the Band , marching in time with 
 the Music, and looking as happy and joyous, 
 as if they were marching to a good dinner, or 
 to receive a new pair of Breeches each, and 
 which they all much need.
 
 231 
 
 Indeed I think that a spirit of Harmony 
 and Order prevails in a most extraordinary 
 manner thro' all Classes of Society in this 
 City. During the three Years I have lived here, 
 I have not only, not seen a blow struck, but 
 I have never heard a single Dispute, or even 
 an angry word pass , ( excepting when my 
 good Landlady chides her Daughter), neither 
 in the Streets, Theatres or Markets. Six Years 
 ago, a Millionaire gave a Man a slap in the 
 Face in the Tergesteo, and since that time he 
 has never dared to shew his Face there. In 
 the Cafes all is harmony and good fellowship, 
 and sometimes too much hugging. My Cham- 
 ber Windows overlook a large Piazza , in 
 which there is a Stand for Coaches , and a 
 Fountain which supplies a populous Quarter 
 with Water, and always surrounded by Nymp s 
 of the Pail waiting their turns. I am perpetually 
 amused by the mock fights, knocking of! hats, 
 and other practical Jokes of the Jarvies ; but 
 I never yet saw or heard any kind of quarreL 
 or angry dispute about priority or precedence
 
 232 
 
 or any thing else; I have often seen an Un- 
 protected Female pulled away from the for- 
 tunate Holder of the Prize, without exciting 
 any appearance of anger or reproach ; and it 
 seems to be one of the standing Jokes of the 
 Brethren to outjockey each other. As to the 
 Water Nymphs they are much too patient and 
 quiet. I enjoy much the wordy war (when it 
 does not come to blows) between two elo- 
 quent fair Members of Society, such as I have 
 often heard in Dublin and Marseilles. 
 
 But Trieste had yet another Ordeal to pass 
 through, before it could be pronounced out of 
 Danger. Charles Albert now appeared on the 
 Field of Battle, leading on his Piedmontese to 
 the Cry of Viva[l 9 Italia libera, and proclaim- 
 ing that he would not leave a foot of Italian 
 Ground to the Enemy. His successful March 
 thro' the Country seemed to promise, that his 
 mighty Purposes were to be accomplished. 
 His threat of sending his Fleet into the 
 Adriatic to succour Venice . and to punish 
 Trieste for its fidelity to the cause of Austria.
 
 
 233 
 
 was soon followed by the actual appearance 
 of his Ships in the Gulph, and their approach 
 to Trieste. It would be impossible to describe 
 the excitement which prevailed, when the Fa- 
 nale signalized "Enemy's Fleet in View," and 
 which was tenfold increased, when the Can- 
 non sounded the Alarm from the Citadel. The 
 Drums beat to arms; the National Guards ran 
 to take their Muskets ; and thousands ran to the 
 Mole and to the Quays, to be convinced of the 
 truth; and others to their Homes to allay the 
 fears of their Wives and Children, and to con- 
 cert means for their Safety in case of need. My 
 old Landlady, when the alarm was given, locked 
 herself into her Bed Chamber; closed the Win- 
 dows, and peeped though the keyhole at the 
 coming Danger. The old market Women must 
 have thought the World was at an end, when 
 obliged to throw their Onions and Cabbages 
 and other precious Articles, higgledy piggledy 
 into their Baskets, and to take down their 
 Stalls, and take themselves off, that the Can- 
 non might supply their places.
 
 234 
 
 The Enemy's Fleet formed in menacing 
 Line in Front of the Port, and a Cannonad- 
 ing was expected from hour to hour ; but 
 whether trom the remonstrances of the dif- 
 ferent Consuls, or from other powerful con- 
 siderations, not a shot was fired. After keep- 
 ing all in doubt , and the timid in fear for 
 some days , the Enemy disappeared one 
 morning, and sailed to Venice. In the mean 
 time, preparations were made to be in rea- 
 diness to receive a second and possibly more 
 hostile visit. Batteries were erected, and Can- 
 non bristled on every possible advanced point. 
 In a few days , the Fanale signalized once 
 more the Enemy , and again the Citadel 
 sounded the Alarm, and again the old Ladies 
 of the Market were obliged to pack up and 
 pack off. Thousands were now seen making 
 their way to St. Andrea to watch the approach 
 of the Foe ; but I observed that in their hurry 
 the Fair Ones had taken time enough to put 
 on their usual becoming attire. Soon the 
 Enemy approached almost within Cannon
 
 235 
 
 shot, and I am sure there were Moltitudes of 
 those that lined the shore who wished the 
 sport to begin; I did for one. In the dead 
 of the Night a loud report of a Cannon was 
 heard, and immediately followed by another, 
 and no doubt thousands jumped out of Bed 
 as I did, expecting that it was the commen- 
 cement of the Storm : but it arose from one 
 of the hostile Ships approaching too near one 
 of the Batteries. 
 
 The Enemy still preserved strict silence, 
 but at the same time maintained a strict Bloc- 
 kade ; and their Presence , tho' a short way 
 out at Sea , ceased to excite so much alarm. 
 Certainly a Bombardment of the City would 
 have been distructive of Property as well us 
 of Life; but the Cannon from the Batteries, 
 from the Citadel, and from the Quays would 
 have poured forth such a terrible Fire, that the 
 Enemy must have soon been silenced , if not 
 destroyed. 
 
 At that time we had two British Ships of 
 War in the Port , sent by Admiral Parker to
 
 236 
 
 protect the English, and their interests, and to 
 give them shelter in case of need : and 
 to watch the motions of the Sardinian and 
 Neapolitan Fleets : and no doubt their Presence 
 with that of a French Ship of War. tended to 
 keep the Hostile Squadrons on their best beha- 
 viour. One of our Ships was the glorious 
 looking Terrible, and the other the fine Fre- 
 gate the Spartan. The Officers were for the 
 most part nice good Fellows, and enlivened 
 our Society by their gaiety, and the Town by 
 their frequent and animated appearance. The 
 fine old Veteran who commanded the Terrible 
 often came to the Tergesteo to read the News- 
 paper, and one could plainly see, that he 
 would prefer shewing his fine range of Teeth 
 in the face of an Enemy, than in the pre- 
 sence of Ladies in a Ball Room. The Captain 
 of the Spartan was a very handsome Man, a 
 gallant Sailor , and the Idol of his Men : but 
 whose Language partook so much of the old 
 Nautical style as in Smollets time, that his best 
 Friends would sometimes srladlv have shut
 
 237 
 
 their ears if they could. The Chaplains of the 
 two Ships were young Men, Pinks of their Pro- 
 fession, exemplary in their devotion to the 
 Fair Sex, and irreproachable for the spotles 
 Purity of their Shirts and Neckcloths. The rest 
 of the Officers were fine spirited Fellows, and 
 promised to do honor to the Service and 
 their Country, if ever Occasion should permit. 
 In a short time the Neapolitan Fleet sepa- 
 rated from the Sardinian, and sailed for Naples ; 
 and soon after, the Sardinians received their 
 orders to leave the Adriatic and return to 
 Genoa. The Terrible if I recollect had left be- 
 fore. The war in Italy now approached its 
 termination. As is well known, the successful 
 onward march of the Piedmontese was but of 
 short duration. After enriching the already fer- 
 tile Plains of Lombardy with the blood of many 
 of their fellow Soldiers, the remainder of the 
 Army hastened for safety to their own Bor- 
 ders : on which those decisive Battles were 
 fought , which reestablished Austria in the 
 Sovereignty of Lombardy, and soon after in the
 
 238 
 
 whole of the Lomhardo - Venetian Kingdom 
 Charles Albert sleeps with his Fathers. His 
 Misfortunes and the melancholy termination of 
 his Career, will no doubt soften the severity of 
 future Historians, in passing Judgment on his 
 Conduct and Character as Prince and as 
 King. 
 
 The Spartan remained with us all the 
 Winter, during which she was joined by the 
 Mutine. The Officers must have passed a happy 
 time here, and will long remember no doubt, 
 the gay Parties, the Carnival Balls, the hospi- 
 tality of their Countrymen , and the happy 
 Evenings spent in the cheerful and delightful 
 Salons of Bora Hall. A gloom was thrown 
 over our Christmas Festivities by the Melan- 
 choly Shipwreck of the poor Mutine, and the 
 loss of one of our greatest Favorites the fine 
 and gallant Whiting, in heroically attempting to 
 effect a communication between the Shore and 
 his Ship whilst battling against the Waves and 
 the Hurricane. In him the Country lost, should 
 it have needed, another Naval Hero. But in time
 
 239 
 
 the Spartan received her orders and left : and 
 with her departed the last vestige of the event- 
 ful Period. 
 
 But Trieste remains , and will remain , 
 true to her self, and to the happiness and best 
 interests of her Citizens and their Children, in 
 continuing true in her allegiance to that Rule 
 under which she has become such a rich, 
 powerful, and prosperous City. 
 
 In conclusion ; I should much like ( if it 
 were permitted) to see through some Mesme- 
 ric Influence, this fair City as it will, and must 
 be twenty years hence. Already the commu- 
 nication by Railway is finished (excepting the 
 traverse of a few hours and the labour of a 
 few Years) which will bring Egypt and the 
 Levant within ten days from Hamburg and 
 the Baltic and the North Sea ; and already 
 the numerous Fleet . of Lloyds Austriaco is 
 on the Seas, which will bear the produce of 
 those fertile Countries to Trieste, to be sent 
 forward by the Railway to all parts of the 
 North ; for altho France will have her rail
 
 240 
 
 road from Marseilles* and Italy from Genoa , 
 yet Trieste must be the Emporium for all 
 the Northern Countries and Seas. 
 
 At the Port of Trieste in a very short 
 time, the greatest part of the numerous Eng- 
 lish goin£ overland to India will take their 
 leave of Europe , and on their return will 
 first salute the European Shore. There can 
 be no doubt , but that when the line of Rail- 
 way is complete, almost all going or return- 
 ing to and from India by land, will prefer 
 the agreeable and varied Route thro Vienna 
 to Trieste, and the direct short Sea Passage 
 to Alexandria by the Adriatic, to the unin- 
 teresting and monotonous Journey thro France, 
 and the long and more circuitous Voyage from 
 Marseilles. Already an increasing number of 
 Passengers take advantage of the monthly 
 Service established by Lloyds Austriaco Comp. y 
 whose fine Ships, fitted up with every com- 
 fort and convenience, make the Passage direct 
 from this Port to Alexandria in about five 
 davs.
 
 m^ 
 
 : 
 
 1 " 
 
 m * 
 
 
 
 m. ns 
 
 
 «
 
 241 
 
 FRANKFORT M THE MAINE 
 
 THE BATHS OF HOMBURG IN WINTER. 
 
 The Sirocco, that terrible wind which is so 
 prevalent along the Italian shores, and which in 
 many of the maritime parts exercises such bale- 
 ful influence over the health and constitutions of 
 the natives themselves, affects me here at Trieste 
 as it formerly did when residing in the beautiful 
 city of Genoa. When those fatal blasts from 
 the South replace the winds from the North, I 
 am laid prostrate, I breathe with the greatest 
 difficulty, my heart palpitates under the painful 
 
 pressure of a waking nightmare , and when I 
 
 16
 
 242 
 
 attempt to walk, my legs seem to be wading 
 through an invisible quagmire. — Early in the 
 night I am awakened by a feeling of suffocation, 
 followed by an attack of asthma, only relieved 
 by an hours coughing. My kind friends and 
 good Physician seeing me sinking under so much 
 suffering, entreat me to fly from a climate so 
 injurious to the health, and the latter advises me 
 to go inland, and seek a level dry open country, 
 free from those continual changes of atmosphere 
 so much felt in Italy , and far from those perpe- 
 tual contentions for mastery between the pesti- 
 lential gales from Africa, and the glacial wolfish 
 torrents of wind rushing down from the Moun- 
 tains, Re<z;rettin°; to bid adieu to the many kind 
 English and Triestene friends to whom 1 was 
 sincerely attached , and from whom , during a 
 residence of three years I had received so many 
 proofs of goodness of heart and generous hospi- 
 tality, I found myself obliged to leave the inte- 
 resting land of the South, the very agreeable
 
 243 
 
 city of Trieste, the beautiful cloudless sky of 
 Italy, and the dazzling waters of the Adriatic, 
 reflecting on their tranquil bosom the deep blue 
 of the Heavenly dome above, on which I had so 
 often gazed with admiration and delight. Re- 
 taining for many years a fond recollection of the 
 City of Frankfort where long ago I had passed 
 nearly a monlh most agreeably, I determined to 
 bend my steps thitherward, and thus in opposition 
 to all received sanative maxims and measures, I 
 quitted the far famed favored climate of Italy to 
 seek for health in the cold regions of the North. 
 When I alighted on my arrival at my old 
 quarters the Hotel d'Angleterre, I was by chance 
 shewn into the same chamber which I recollected 
 to have occupied so many years before, and was 
 again refreshed after my long journey with that 
 fragrant tea with its accompaniments which an 
 Englishman only can appreciate, and for my 
 breakfast in the morning with coflee fine flavored 
 
 and strong enough to satisfy the most fastidious 
 
 16'
 
 244 
 
 Frenchman. Intending to remain some time in this 
 city, I immediately sought an apartment, and 
 found a very pleasant one in the beautiful street 
 the Zeil, in the house of Mr. Halm the hatter &c. 
 (whom I recommend to my countrymen as an 
 honest and very civil tradesman) nearly opposite 
 the Post-office and also the fine Hotel de Russie, 
 one of the best and most comfortable Hotels on 
 the Continent, and where I have the pleasure of 
 seeing from my windows many of my fellow 
 Countrymen alight on their arrival. 
 
 With great delight 1 find that my good Doctor 
 was right in his opinion that my complaints were 
 not radical , and that a change of climate would 
 remove them. — From the first hour I breathed 
 this fine pure air all my maladies have left me, 
 and the health and almost the elasticity of younger 
 days seem to be restored to me. I have no longer 
 asthma, my heart is free from pressure and pal- 
 pitation , and my limbs from restraint. — I can 
 walk all the day without fatigue, and I likewise
 
 245 
 
 enjoy the inexpressible comfort of a good nights 
 sleep. How delightful it is to feel the heart released 
 from its deadly burden, to breathe unobstructedly 
 throughout the day the delicious air from Heaven 
 unmixed with noxious earthly gases, to be assured 
 by the silent imperceptible pulsation that the 
 beautiful machinery within which diffuses the vital 
 fluid through the frame, is restored to perfeet 
 order, to find my limbs freed from that hidden 
 obstruction to their onward movement, and to 
 awake in the morning refreshed by sleep, instead 
 of being disturbed early in the night by laborious 
 respiration. In this air I can sing or even shout, 
 and not only walk fast but run , and possibly 
 dance if I were to try. Many of my friends at 
 Trieste advised me to resort to the Hydropathic 
 or cold water system , but thank Heaven I had 
 too much confidence in its own pure congenial 
 air as a restorative, to have recourse to such a 
 troublesome, out of the way, though possibly scien- 
 tific mode of cure.
 
 246 
 
 II will then be very natural lhat I speak in 
 terms of great partiality of this charming city of 
 Frankfort, which besides its fine healthy air is 
 undeniably a most agreeable place of residence 
 for us Englishmen, and judging from the number 
 of my compatriots here, its advantages are duly 
 appreciated; however of its numerous attractions 
 all the Guide Books and descriptions given by 
 travellers bear ample testimony, particularly the 
 charming lively works of Mrs. Trollope in which 
 this city is enthusiastically spoken of, and also the 
 Englishmans best and most useful companion, the 
 red Hand Book, which gives its usual faithful 
 and minute details of the many objects which 
 will please and interest the visitor to this city. 
 As to my own experience of its agremens a few 
 words must suffice. Besides my home in my own 
 comfortable apartment, the obliging Mr. Charles 
 Jiigel gave me a card of introduction into the 
 celebrated Casino, where, in its well heated, bril- 
 liantly lighted range of'Salons, and with the resources
 
 247 
 of newspapers, periodicals, cards and billiards &c. 
 a Stranger can pass many agreeable hours during 
 the dreary season of the Year. The extensive 
 circulating library of Mr. Oehler in which I found 
 many modern works that had not yet reached the 
 South, has been a great resource, and likewise 
 the charming and lively Cafe Milani, where in 
 the evening I have enjoyed my favorite game of 
 Chess, and where all Englishman can find Galignani, 
 Times, Punch and all the Illustrations, with a most 
 excellent cup of Tea or Coffee, and the greatest 
 civility from the obliging proprietor II Signor 
 Milani, who is possessed with Anglomania to a 
 high degree. I have visited the Churches, Library, 
 Picture Gallery, Museum of Natural History &c. 
 but my greatest delight has been to walk along 
 the fine Quay by the side of the fast flowing 
 Maine, or to wander through the charming diver- 
 sified walks in the enchanting gardens which 
 nearly environ the city, and which extending for 
 nearly three miles, are all laid out in that beau-
 
 248 
 
 tiful and natural style so congenial to the English 
 taste. I have likewise paid repeated morning 
 visits to Dannecker's most lovely Ariadne , who 
 seems almost sensible of ones admiration, for 
 really that roseate tint thrown upon it through 
 the screen of silk , gives it the hue of life and 
 the semblance of animation, and especially when 
 the sun shines. 
 
 A resident in Frankfort enjoys a very great 
 and important advantage in the means of rapid 
 and constant communication with all parts of 
 Europe. I can be in London, or Berlin, Vienna, 
 or Paris in much less than two days, and indeed to 
 all parts, East, West, North or South the Railway 
 carriages depart many limes in the day : Likewise 
 the numerous noted and agreeable places of resort 
 in the immediate neighbourhood afford most plea- 
 sant short excursions, at a very small expense. 
 For example, the celebrated Baths of Homburg 
 open and gay in the dull season of Winter and 
 throughout the year, are reached by numerous
 
 249 
 conveyances during the day in an hour and a 
 half for 30 Kreutzers, and by the Railway and 
 Omnibus in about an hour for 33 Kreutzers* 
 Having heard so much of the Winter attractions 
 of Homburg, I determined to drive over and 
 judge for myself, and accordingly a day or two 
 after my arrival I took my place in the Mail, 
 and after a pleasant ride of less than an hour and 
 a half on a fine road mostly on a gradual ascent, 
 I arrived at the Capital of the Principality of 
 Hesse Homburg. 
 
 On entering the town from Frankfort, the 
 stranger passes up a regular fine looking street, 
 on each side of which, those newly built respec- 
 table houses have evidently been erected for the 
 accommodation of Visitors, and among them, some 
 large prepossessing Hotels, and to judge from 
 their exterior, the Visitors must find themselves 
 very agreeably and comfortably lodged therein. 
 Further on, in a spacious open place tastily laid out, 
 and at about fifty yards distance from the Street
 
 250 
 
 appeared a very superb Edifice, which I at once 
 knew to be the famous Kursaal, and on alighting 
 I made my way to it. This magnificent Structure 
 which is approached by circular carriage drives at 
 each end, and by a fine promenade walk in the 
 centre, is built in the beautiful Italian style of 
 architecture, and with its very handsome portico 
 surmounted by an elegant capacious balcony, 
 and relieved by those graceful wings extended 
 on each side, reminded me forcibly of the splen- 
 did Palaces I had seen in Genoa, Venice, and other 
 cities of Italy. At this season of the year too, 
 instead of the deserted melancholy appearance 
 worn by all its other fellow Establishments on 
 the Continent, with their doors barred up and 
 window shutters closed, as if in mourning for 
 departed attractions, here, the Visitor is struck 
 with the animated, joyous, and alluring aspect all 
 around, the gay world is seen through the win- 
 dows, and on mounting the steps into the portico, 
 the doors of the principal entrance seem to open 

 
 251 
 
 of, their own accord into a fine large hall, where 
 he is received and saluted by servants in hand- 
 some livery. 
 
 My description of the interior which I at 
 once perceived to be of the same spacious costly 
 character as the exterior, will be as short and 
 hasty, as, impelled by curiosity to see all, my 
 progress was through it. Attracted by certain 
 chinking metallic sounds, — «how pleasant tis 
 to hear them," I entered the Salon where, altho 
 in Winter, there was much company engaged at 
 the lively and amusing Roulette. The next apart- 
 ment I found to be the reading room where round 
 tables covered with newspapers, and sitting at 
 the windows, I saw T many of my fellow coun- 
 trymen enjoying their Globe, Times, Morning 
 Post, Punch, Galignany &c. &c. Back through 
 the Roulette Salon, and across a hall for the 
 attendants into a spacious Salon, thronged with 
 visitors sitting and standing, and deeply engrossed 
 in the interesting and fascinating game of Trente
 
 252 
 
 et Ouarante or Rouge & Noir. I observed two 
 Frenchmen who appeared to be partners with a 
 large heap of gold before them, which they had just 
 won : Through an open door into a fine Salon hand- 
 somely and most comfortably fitted up for conver- 
 sation, cards, chess <fec. where there were two French- 
 men profoundly absorbed in the calculating strata- 
 gems of the latter warlike game, and in a snug corner, 
 a Cosmopolite party at Whist, composed of an Eng- 
 lishman, a Frenchman, a German, and a Dummy* 
 From this apartment a door opened into the mag- 
 nificent Ball and Music Room, of noble dimensions 
 and elegant proportions, embellished with beauti- 
 ful marble columns supporting the Galeries for 
 the spectators and the orchestra, and a handsome 
 large Box for Royal Visitors. My curiosity then 
 led me through the various fine billiard , dining 
 Salons and Divan into the Cafe where I regaled 
 myself with a cup of my favorite beverage. 
 
 Altho it was a true Winters day, yet I ven- 
 tured out to explore the gardens and plantations
 
 253 
 
 under the back front of the Establishment , and 
 altho all around wore the aspect of the season, 
 yet it was easily perceived that the extensive 
 grounds were laid out with excellent taste, and 
 one could easily imagine their beautiful appearance 
 in Summer, when the trees, shrubs, and lawns 
 were dressed in their livery of green, and the 
 varied walks enlivened by groups and parties of 
 fair visitors, strolling about, or sitting to enjoy 
 the music from that pretty Temple. The garden 
 front of the Establishment strikes one as more 
 magnificent and imposing than the real front. 
 That handsome facade with its wide terrace before 
 it, and the fine flight of steps leading down into 
 the garden, present a very grand and noble appea- 
 rance when viewed from a distance beneath. 
 The view from that spacious Terrace floored with 
 asphalt must be exceedingly beautiful in Summer, 
 as it commands from its elevation not only the 
 enchanting lively gardens immediately below, but 
 also that fine expanse of dark forest spread out
 
 254 
 
 far and wide before, and extending from the 
 verge of the grounds in a graceful gradual slope, 
 to the ridge of the lofty Taunus Mountains which 
 bound the horizon afar off; I longed to traverse 
 that wide avenue which leads to the summit, but 
 the weather was unpropitious, and I was glad to 
 reenter into the warm and lively Salons. 
 
 After taking a peep at the Globe I amused 
 myself during the remainder of my visit in watching 
 the changes and chances of the different games, 
 with which every one nowadays is quite familiar* 
 I observed that those who played according to 
 their own peculiar system more often lost than 
 won. A few 3Iinutes before the table d'hote 
 dinner hour, two Englishmen hastily entered just 
 as the white ball had commenced its rapid circle, 
 one of them called out, un Guillawne sur Manque* 
 in a minute the ball descended into Manque, and 
 altho they had not staked their money, yet the 
 gold piece (18 s ) was thrown down to them with 
 that liberal promptitude which distinguishes the
 
 255 
 Bank on all occasions; and they went out and 
 no doubt added a bottle or two of their favorite 
 wine to the excellent table d'hote dinner, I also 
 threw down my Thaler or the red, red it was, 
 and I was perfectly satisfied with pocketing enough 
 to pay my days expenees. Since that day I have 
 made the excursion several times, and always 
 with renewed pleasure. Once I walked back to 
 Frankfort and with perfect ease in rather more 
 than three hours. Another time I remained until 
 after the evening Concert which is given every day 
 throughout the year, and certainly I scarcely ever 
 heard more delicious music. The beautiful large Ball 
 Room when brilliantly lighted up with its chandeliers 
 and lustres shews off its frescoes and fine deco- 
 rations to great advantage, and with the gay throng 
 which assembles every evening, presents a char- 
 ming contrast to the wintry aspect without. 
 
 Should 1 remain in this part of the world, 
 I shall certainly be disposed to pass my next 
 Winter at Homburg , not only on account of its
 
 256 
 
 fine healthy situation and pure invigorating air, 
 but also for the inducements which the good 
 roads, the inviting open country around, and 
 the vicinity of the attractive City of Frank- 
 fort hold ont for long walks and vigorous 
 glowing exercise, so salutary and indeed ne- 
 cessary to circulate the blood and promote proper 
 digestion in the cold astringent season of Winter. 
 Likewise, at that period one has at command the 
 choice of good, comfortable and cheap apartments, 
 and also a very great resource in that fine Es- 
 tablishment open from early morn till late at night, 
 and in whose well heated, well lighted Salons, all 
 the visitors can find amusement, society, news- 
 papers, periodicals &c. offered gratis by the liberal 
 Proprietors, who seem to spare no expense to 
 render the Winters sojourn lively and agreeable. 
 Another great attraction for me would be the 
 evening concert , when the choisest pieces of the 
 first Masters arc played by a select band of per- 
 formers and conducted by leaders of the first
 
 257 
 talents i and in that charming Salon , admirably 
 constructed to give Music its divinest effect. If I 
 were young enough to be a Sportsman, the 
 extensive Forest abounding with game, and which 
 with a vast tract of country, the visitors are allow- 
 ed to shoot over , would be another very great 
 attraction. 
 
 Hitherto I have spoken of Homburg as I have 
 found it in the winter; now whilst I write, the 
 Gardens and the beautiful country around are 
 adorned with the verdant charms of the Spring, 
 and one is enabled to judge of their enchanting 
 appearance in the season, when enlivened by the 
 numerous visitors. Among the multitudes who 
 flock to Homburg in the Summer, there are num- 
 bers who come for the benefit of the saline waters, 
 celebrated for their remedial efficacy in many 
 cases of disease. One morning when in Mr. 
 Jiigel's library I took up a work on the Spas of 
 Homburg, written by the eminent Physician here 
 
 Sir Alexander Downie, and I was so much gra- 
 
 17
 
 258 
 
 tified by the explicit and convincing proofs he 
 gives of the salubrity of the climate , its peculiar 
 suitableness to some constitutions, and its restora- 
 tive effects on many invalids, that I felt anxious 
 to see the talented Author and state to him my 
 own recovery from the maladies under which 
 I had suffered. An opportunity soon presented 
 itself, and I was happy to hear from his own 
 lips, that many similar cases had occurred in his 
 experience of patients affected by the same com- 
 plaints having derived equal benefit from the 
 peculiar purity of the air in this fine open Country. 
 I have therefore the valuable authority of a Phy- 
 sician of the highest reputation, and of long and 
 extensive practise to confirm my own individual 
 experience and which will have much greater weight 
 in inducing those suffering from asthma &c. to seek 
 relief in the pure, elastic, reviving air of this dry 
 and healthy Climate. And whilst I am thus inhaling 
 with every inspiration the best panacea of Hea- 
 vens own air, I cannot read Sir Alexanders
 
 259 
 
 interesting description of the wonderful medicinal 
 
 properties and virtues of the Spas of Homburg 
 
 and of their curative efficacy in removing many 
 
 disorders , without being still more impressed 
 
 with grateful admiration towards that Almighty 
 
 Creative Providence which has made the Earth 
 
 to send forth from her bowels those gushing 
 
 saline waters already physically endowed and 
 
 suited for the internal and external relief of 
 
 suffering humanity. How pitiful and contemptible 
 
 are the nostrums and remedies foisted on the 
 
 world as a speculation, in the form of pills &c. of 
 
 specious names and universal infallible virtues, 
 
 compared with these waters of Jordan prescribed 
 
 and prepared for us by our Heavenly Physician, 
 
 Thank Heaven this air restores to me the famous 
 
 appetite and good digestion I enjoyed in my 
 
 younger days (altho I recollect to have swallowed 
 
 on one or two occasions the well known black 
 
 draught (horresco referens) administered by our 
 
 family apothecary) yet there are thousands of my 
 
 17*
 
 260 
 
 fellow countrymen who suffer from what the 
 Doctors call Dyspepsia or bad digestion, and for 
 these as well as for other chronic disorders these 
 Spas of Homburg appear to be peculiarly appli- 
 cable. I cannot render a greater service to those 
 labouring under such Maladies, than to give them 
 the judicious conclusive opinion of a Physician, 
 of great professional talent and experience who 
 has made the properties and the effective appli- 
 cation of these mineral Springs and Baths his 
 particular study; nor can I do better than 
 conclude this little work of mine with giving 
 that opinion in his own masterly and im- 
 pressive language. After citing many cases of 
 recovery from chronic catarrhal affection, bron- 
 chitis, asthma &c. &c. Sir Alexander thus writes 
 on the subject of impaired powers of digestion*). 
 »I have treated so many cases of this des- 
 cription at Homburg, that I cannot too strongly 
 
 ') The Spas of Homburg by Sir. A, M, Downic, A. M. M. D.
 
 261 
 
 vurge upon those whose powers of digestion are 
 ^impaired by close application to study or busi- 
 ness, the pleasures of the table, residence in 
 v tropical climates, or the abuse of purgative me- 
 wdicines, the permanent advantages which they 
 wwill derive from the use of these valuable 
 v springs. I have as uniformly avoided in my own 
 v works, as I have condemned in those of others, 
 wany exaggerated or overcharged description of 
 wthe cures which may be effected by the proper 
 wiise of mineral waters; but when I year after 
 wyear see both the mental and bodily vigour of 
 wthe wretched hypochondriac restored, the glow 
 «of health suffuse the sallow and pale counte- 
 nance of the dyspeptic, the heart of the fond and 
 » anxious parent made glad by seeing her daughter, 
 » whose progress towards womanhood had for a 
 wtime been interrupted, throw off the oppressive 
 » languor with which she had been affected, and, 
 v assuming her natural bloom of youth, able once 
 wmore to join in the innocent recreations beco-
 
 262 
 
 »ming her sex; when such instances, joined to a 
 «host of others, are placed before me, am I not 
 abound in justice to bear testimony to the efficacy 
 »of the means by which such salutary changes 
 «have been effected, and at the same time to ex- 
 v press my regret that prejudice and ignorance of 
 «the subject should prevail to so great an extent 
 win my own country?" 
 
 «»
 
 263 
 
 Page. 
 
 From Vienna to Linz 1 
 
 From Linz, Gmunden and Ischl «... 12 
 
 St. Wolfgang 25 
 
 Hallstadt 42 
 
 Salzburg 60 
 
 Golling, Schwarzbach Waterfall and Konig-See . 82 
 
 Aussee . 96 
 
 Ischl 109 
 
 Ischl (continued) 132 
 
 Gosau Lake 148 
 
 Ischl (continued) 158 
 
 Bad Gestein 170 
 
 Sketch of Trieste 198 
 
 Baths of Homburg in Winter 241 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS* 
 
 Ischel Frontispiece. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Gmunden from Calvarienberg 19 
 
 St. Wolfgang 29 
 
 Hallstadt 47 
 
 Salzburg 69 
 
 Gollinsen or Schwarzback Waterfall ... 86 
 
 Konig See 90 
 
 Near Grundell See 103 
 
 Smallnau 120 
 
 Road to Ebensee 136 
 
 Gosau Lake 154 
 
 Pass Lueg 171 
 
 Bad Gastein 178 
 
 Baths of Homburg in Winter 241
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 7 bottom line for clean read clever 
 „ 8 16 ,, ,, while „ vile 
 
 ,,11 5 „ „ Train „ Tram 
 
 „ 13 5 -.-, after firs a period instead of comma 
 ,, 19 14 i, for alonliness read loneliness. 
 There are many others which the intelligent Reader will kind'y correct 
 and also will pardon the frequent absurd use of capital letters and commas which 
 the German compositor has been pleased to disperse so plentifully throughout this 
 little work. 
 
 Frankfort on the Maine. — Printed by C/Horstmann.
 
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 Return this material to the library 
 
 from which it was borrowed.
 
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