THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES tnrMft\arhd. [i.f*/ '\hettiOi yCoed ifontypojit omun BrtdPB-\ (/rw.r -^ Ui- Cl^'U 'FrySor wj' y.VtLni' Bont novyi DoLGELLtY I Aberllefenn Cprris .' 1 ; rVMLLETf -^'D'E-Z-- ^F==r:;Fr^s1atyF TaUicre'- t^^^SJ LlVEB^roOL. '■^Fcpyd hyl Trefna.nt\ ''/ ^~v^^ Cb^ FLINTi D£NBI(^< 'era ^.Queens fe'ry ■ CHESXIKZ. ■~^^'> UVJ'yu/iTnW' • y'e'xyjfpnld^.i: ■:■■■/.•, . Pfrciffk \CTCrm^!eCaSisU) Thl Pass ok LtAUBrns' 224 (frtm J Fkttfj^rufk if Afnir, frili. Rtigsit) PoRTMAOOC ...... 234 frum n PiHtj^ri^K if Aftiiri Ft it A, Riif^i) PwLLMkU . . . . . .237 :^Fnm J filtftdfi it Mmri Frilk, Rtifstt) Khi'Dolan Castul .... 240 ^Fr»m s Pitttfrjfk if Mtiirt Fnik, Rrigstr > SNOUrOnS FROM L.LYN I.LYDAW . . 252 (^Fr^m J Fk»iv^rjfk t, Minn Frilk, RrifJ'*''. SnOWDON, TMF 1.A5T HaL» MiLt i)4 {^Fitm J Pk»t0frjfJk if Mt4ir4 /'xVh/ik/. DutJtt^ TaL-Y-LLYS l.AKI AND PaSS . . 26l (Fttm J Pkii Valley, Towys . 2^4 Frtm J Pkti*irJfk if Affuri Frilk, Rrtfalt) \'Au.t Ciucis Abbey . 272 f Ffm a Pk*t0(rjfk if Mniri Fritk. Rtig.ilf) Wrlzham Church . . ::^ (Frwm s Pkrlt^rafk i^ Mtisrt Frilk, R^ij(slrj Map 111 North Walks . , , . -r"// <-'.. VIII INTRODUCTORY I. Situation, Extent, and Boundaiies VIORTH WALES, which is bounded on the N. by the Irish Sea and the river Dec, on the E. by Cheshire and Salop, on the S. by the Welsh counties of Radnor and Cardigan, and again on the W. by the Irish Sea, is divided into the counties of Anglesey, Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, Merioneth, and Montgomery. Anglesey (anciently Mona) has the sea on three of its sides, while on tfie E. it is separated from the mainland by the Menai Strait, which is 14 m. long, and varies in breadth from a few hundred yards to 2 m. Near Bangor the strait is crossed by the famous Sus- pension Bridge, commenced in 1819 and opened to the public on January 30th, 1826. A mile lower down the once woild-famed Tubular Bridge carries the L. $c N.W. Railway across on its way to Holyhead. This insular county, which measures from E. to W. about 28 m., and from N. to S. about 20, owes its importance in large measure to the circum- stance that it has proved for long years the most convenient point from which to reach Dublin. Its general aspect is unattractive, being comparatively flat, subject to fogs, in parts barren and waste, and with a notable lack of trees. Its coast is in parts, especially on the N. and W., characterised by high, A I NORTH WALES rocky cliffs, while on the S. it is low, and subject to inroads of the sea. Caernarvon, which adjoins Anglesey on its west- ern border, is the most characteristic, as well as the most diversified of the Welsh counties. It is irregular in shape, forming a sort of large triangle, the broad base line of which extends from Great Orme's Head, along Menai Strait, to the top of the Lleyn promontory. Its eastern boundary is formed in the main by the river Conway, and its southern by Cardigan Bay and the river Dwyryd. To it belongs tlie distinction of containing within its border the most elevated tract of Wales, and, indeed, of S. Britain, being largely overspread by the Snow- donian Mountains. These majestic heights are for the most part destitute of vegetation, except in the cwms or hollows, where a coarse herbage grows. Level and fertile tracts, though they occur here and there, form but a very small proportion of the 365,986 acres which constitute the superficial area of the county. The largest extent of cultivable soil is found in the valley of the Conway. Denbighshire, a border county on the E., and the most populous division of N. Wales, has a short northern coast line, but considerable extension in- land. Though it has much of the mountainous character of the Principality generally, its rugged- ness is much softened by many tracts of quiet beauty and fertility, especially in the vales of Clwyd and Llangollen. The county is about 40 m. long and 20 broad, and contains 426,084 acres. Flintshire is by much the smallest of the six N. Welsh counties, its total area being 163,025 acres. It consists of a narrow maritime tract, 30 m. long by 10 broad, having the estuary of the Dee and 2 PHYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY the sea on the E. and N, respectively, and the liver Clwyd and the Clwydian Hills on the W. Besides this main portion of Flint there is a detached area, a sort of enclave between the counties of Chester and Salop, and touching Den- bigh on the W. It is lo ni. long and 5 broad, and is known as the Hundred of Maelor (by the Welsh cafled Maelor Saesneg, as being, as they think, more Saxon than Welsh). Merionethshire is bounded on the N. by Caer- narvonshire and Denbighshire, N.E. by the latter, E. and S.E. by the county of Montgomery, and S. and S.AV. by Cardigan and its bay. It is 46 m. in length by 29 in breadth, and has 427,810 acres of surface. Its soil is poor, and suitable only for pasturage. Though it has a long coast line, its only harbours are those of Barmouth and Aberdovey. Montgomerynhire, the largest and the one wholly inland county of N. Wales, belongs almost entirely to the basin of the Upper Severn, which descends from the side of Plinlimmon on its S.W. border. It includes an area of 510,111 acres, and is for the most part rugged and mountainous, although with considerable stretches of fertile valley towards the English border, where it touches the county of Salop, having Radnorshire to the S. II. General Physical Features, Climate, and Scenery N. Wales is not only notable tor its scenery, but for the great variety it presents in that respect. This arises from the extremely diversified character of its surface, as well as from its climate, which from its general mildness in winter, and the bracing 3 NORTH WALES quality of its air in given localities, has fringed the coast with seaside resorts. The mean annual tem- jicrature, like that of the greater part of England, is about 50 F., while at some of the watering- places (like Criccieth — pronounced " Criketh " — with its soutlierly aspect and protection from northerly winds, like Barmouth and Towyn, also with their sl.elter N. and E.) it compares favour- ably with towns on the S. coast like Brighton, Bournemouth, and Torquay. At Barmouth, for instance, the spring temperature ranges from 50 F. in April to 70 F. in June, while in the autumn months it has been found to harmonise very closely with that of Pau. At I'owyn the climatic con- ditions are much the same. The rainfall— with a mean for the whole country of 45 in. — varies con- siderably at different places. Thus at Barmouth the average annual rainfall is 40 in., while at Port- madoc it is 50, at Dolgelly 60, and at Ffestiniog 100. Ffestiniog owes its pre-eminence in this respect to its position among the mountains, in whose higher valleys the raintall is naturally the heaviest, unfitting them on that account for agricul- tural pursuits. Anglesey is the only one of the six counties that is not of a mountainous nature. All the others have mountain ranges of a distinctive character, and all, with the same exception, have rivers of some size, which naturally add greatly to the scenery of their respective districts. As regards mountains, Caernarvonshire holds the pre-eminence both as regards the extent covered and the number and heiglit of its peaks. Before the existing division into counties took place, nearly the whole of what is now Caernarvonshire was 4 PHYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY called by the English " Snowdon Forest." The name did not necessarily signify a place covered with trees (although there is reason to believe that many of these mountains, now so bare, v/cre at one time well wooded), but a wild and uncultivable district. Pennant gave it the name of Snowdonia, and the wbole of the long range stretching from the towering headland of Penmaenmawr to the Rivals (or Yr Eifl), in the Lleyn promontory, may be fittingly included under that designation ; although the Snowdon range, ])roperly so called, must still comprise only the block of mountains bounded roughly by the Pass of Llanberis, the valley of the Gwynant, and a line drawn from Beddgelert (pro- nounced Bethgelert^) through Llyn Cwellyn to Llanberis, with Snowdon as the central peak. ''The Welsh alphabet contains 27 cliaractcrs : A, B C, D, E, F, Ff, (;, Ng. H, I, L, LI, M, N, O, P. Ph, R, S, T, Th, U, W, and Y. No letter has any variation of sound except the vowels a, c, 6, u, and w, which, when accented, are more prolonged. They are always pro- nounced, there being no mutes. A has the same sound as the Eiiglish open "a" in "man," never as in " tjable "; E has the sound of '• e " in " men "; I as " i " in king, never as " i " in kind; O as " o " in " gone "; U as "i" in limb or "u" in busy. W is a vowel, and has the sound of ••w" in ••wind," ''oo" in " soon," or •' o " in " who." Y has two sounds : (1) in the last syllable of a word and in monosyllables it is pronounced like •' i " in -'sin "; (2) in other syllables it has more the sound of " u '' in "must" or "o" in " honey." B and P are used interchangeably, as in " pont " or " bont," a bridge. C is always hard, as in "Cymmer," pronounced " Kimmer. " Dd has the sound of " th " in •' thus," " that." F is sounded like " v " or like "f" in "of." Ff like " f " in "fell." G is always hard, as in "go," never as in "gentle." Ng has the sound of " ng " in "tongue." LI is peculiar to the 5 NORTH WALES Within this triangle, or closely bordering upon it, is included sonic of the wildest and most beautiful scenery in the country, as we shall sec when we come to ypcak more particularly of its geological characteristics. To the I£. of the Snowdonian range, beyond the valley of the Conway, another long stretch of hills is seen, running N.W. and S.E. These are the Hiraethog Mountains (Mynydd Hiraethog in Welsh), which begin on the bank of the Dee N.W. of Corwen, and running without a break along the E. side of the Conway valley to Eglwys Facli, there turn E., and follow the N. bank of the Elwy to within about 3 m. of the Clwyd. The escarpment of the range lies along the river Conway, its eastern face presenting gentle slopes, with long ridges of hills stretching towards the Clwyd, separated by pleasant vales. The highest peak of the range, Moel Eithin, is 1742 ft. above the sea. In the ridge N. of the Elwy, Molfre Uchaf reaches 1250 ft. and Molfre Isaf 1038 ft. Some of the summits on the ridges branching off to the E. attain a somewhat higher elevation, as Bronbanog, 1656 ft. These mountains consist chiefly of flags and grits, known as Denbighshire grits, interstrati- lied with slaty shales. But on the E. slopes these are found mingled with limestone rocks, and show the beautiful rounded outlines and characteristic flora of that formation. Welsh tongue, and has tlie sound of '• thl," Llangollen being pronounced Thtan.^otlilfn, R is always aspirated at the beginning of a word. Th is sounded as in [ '• thank," never as in " thus,'' '■ thine." V is sometimes j used instead of '■ f." Like B ami P, C and G are often , used interchangeably. 6 PHYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY The southern extremity of the Mynydd Hirae- thog is contiguous to a range of lofty heights extending E. and W. along the river Dec, and very near it« banks, from Corwen to Trevor and Ruabon. It comprises summits of considerable elevation — ranging from 1804 ft. (Moel Morfydd) to 1897 ft. (Moel-y-GamcHn) — and may be con- sidered an offshoot of the Hiraetliogs, with all their charm — under a sunny sky — of quiet beauty and haunting wistfulness. Its more noteworthy outlines almost " touch hands " with tiie southern end of the Clwydian range, which, beginning near Dyserth (2 m. E. of Rhuddlan), runs due S. to Llnndcgla. The Clwydian range, composed of mountain limestone, owes most of its characteristic features to that constituent rock, which prevails also on the opposite side of the Vale of CKvyd, running up past Denbigh to St Asaph and thence to Abergele, Colwyn, and the promontory ot Orme's Head, the country of the Elwy, the Dulas, and a score other delightful streams which the nature lover knows so well. A similar range of limestone hills of moderate felevation, kno'un as the Halkin Mountains, inter- sects the county of Flint from N.E. to S.W., having the Dee on its eastern side and being rich in coal. This makes it specially worthy of the attention of the geologist. Travelling S. of these main ranges of Denbigh- shire and Flint, we come to another extensive and very beautiful chain of mountains — that, namely, ot the Berwyns. It begins to the N. of Chirk Castle, near the confluence of the Dee and the Ceiriog, the pretty valley of which is one of the gems of the Berwyns country. At Moel Fferna (2070 ft.) 7 NORTH WALES the range bends to the S.W., and continues in that direction in a somewhat zigzag hne past Bala to the Pass of B\vlch-y-groes, the summit ot wliich readies the notable elevation of 1950 ft. The pass is so called because a wayside cross once crowned the height, placed there to remind the wayfarer of the thanks due to the Unseen Power thar guides and protects poor travellers through the wildernesses of this world. And from the Bwlch- y-grocs the eye wanders over a wild and desolate wilderness indeed. Here the Berwyn range unites with that of the Arans, and so continues on to Cader Idris, which on a clear day may be seen looming up, gaunt and grey, in a south-westerly direction. Among the higher peaks of this long stretch of heights are (S. of Mocl Fferna) CaJer Ferwyn and Moel Sych, both a little over 2700 ft. in height ; Aran Benllyn, some 200 ft. higher; and Aran Mawddwy, 2970 ft., the two last named grimly overlooking the long stretch of Bala Lake from the S. To the E. of this magnificent range, the source of many streams and the two largest of Welsh lakes, lie the alluvial plains of the Severn, bordering which, near where it makes a decided bend E. to get finally into England, rise the pleasing mammilli- form Breiddcn Hills, including the picturesque Moel-y-go!fa on the right bank of the river, and Long Mountain, isolated portions of a range that runs S. into Radnorshire, and as the Kerry Hills stretches towards Llanidloes. W. of this quiet little town (noteworthy for the beautiful interior of its church), we reach the bluff slopes and boggy environment of Plinlimmon, whose northern shoulder only protrudes itself into N. Wales. 8 PHYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY Two other striking ranges of hills need to be mentioned in order to complete the mountain sys- tems of this northern half of Wales. The first and most prominent of these may be said to start from Tremadoc, whence trending away first E. and then S.E., and finally bending round so as to form a rough half-circle, it includes Moclwyn (2566 ft.), the Manods, the Migneint Hills (which give rise to the Conway), the bleak Arenigs, and lumpy Rhobell Fawr, thus linking up, so to speak, with the Arans and Cader Idris, whose precipitous northern escarp- ment limits the view S. Then, within the arc of this crescent, another interesting range, marked everywhere with the life- prints of prehistoric men, extends in a southerly direction from Maenlwrog to Diphwys (pronounced Dif-fo(jts), and thence, bending a little W., to Bar- mouth. Craig-ddrwi^, with 2100 ft. of elevation, the two Rhinogs (Eawr and Fach), and Diphwys (2462 ft), the northern buttress of the Llawliech ridge, form the highest summits. It is a land of beautiful lakes and streams, of history, too, the like of which has not been written, if we could but re^d it. There was a time, untold ages ago, when the whole of N. Wales was submerged, when bit by bit it began to emerge from the sea, the higher peaks appearing first as little dots of islands, then the secondary heights, and so on, until the central peaks of Snowdonia would form a sort of table- land, while numberless islands, formed by the higher summits of the ranges above named, would spangle like emerald gems the encircling sea. Only by following, as it were, with the mind's eye through successive operations of this kind — the 9 NORIH WALIS gradual submergence of the l^uid anii then its rc- cmrrj'cnce apain and again repeated- en we co'ii- prehend, and then but dimly, the age-long process of building up the earth'* crust as we now see it in this section of Wales, stratum after stratum, forma- tion after fc i, through a jK-riod of time in which a the-... .,: .c.irs are truly but as a day. First, after the fundamental Archxan rocks, came the Lower Cambrian formation and then the Up[>er Cambrian, the aacmblage ot these beds formmg, as ScJgwick found, the main feature ot the earth's crust in N. Wales. Following these we next come upon the Ordovician, or Silurian, and the Upptr Silurian systems, resp;ctirr ••.' -.h it is necessary to joint out that the G 1 Surrey found the up|>er beds of Sedgwick's Cam- brian formation identical with the lowrr layers ol Murr'"' — *- Si!' rian. These early rocks, however, as 1 1 . well observes, is " most complicated and very difficult to decipher." The wandering student, therefore, must not lose heart it he finds the j,^,^',. .;.-i| nut rather hard to crack. He will find g in the discoveries of Dr Micks, who is ot opinion that in WJes there exist rocks older than eithtr the Silurian or C strata (coeval, |>ossibly, with the Laurenti.i:. . .^i of Canada). In these pre-Cambrian beds, which are of enormous thickness. Hicks distinguishes threr divisions: (i) the lowest, co; ^ iritoid and gneissic rocks, he names 1 , -y are overlaid by (l) compact felspathic and quartzose beds, called the Armorican group; and lastly (3) we have the Pebidian strata, schiftosc sb* — ■;-, usually of a green colour, vulcanic aggic , and breccias. These pre-Can)brian stratifications 10 I'HYSICAL I lA'lTRES ANDSCENFRY toinj nioic than onc-hait of Anglesry. Thcv mav l>c seen and studied to jKrfcction Ixtwecn Bardscy Isl.ind and N'rrin on tlic W. «idr of Llcyn, as alio between Ban;;or and Caernarvon. Nothing in the \vay of fossils has been discoven-d in these beds. The Cimbrian system is well exhibited in Cacrn.irvogshite and .Mrrioneth. In the latter county the Llawllech rid^e runs N. and S. nearly in the centre of the Cambrian anticlinal, and affords a fine field for the study of the system. The rocks are mostly giced, as we hare noted, in Flint- shire, and present also in Anglesey) ; the Permian, the New Ret.1, and the Lias. The»e, howcter, do not succi-ed rich other with the regular sequence which they present in the books, but each step upward in the building, so to speak, is marked by interruptions, upheavals, breaks of various sorts, sometimes of the most cataclysmic character. These ch.inges, it is thought, may at times have been caused by astronomical happ(.-nings, that is, by variations in the inclination of the |)oles to the sun. The icnuH-rature of this or that /one would in the course of ages be vastly altered, and with it, by a process which it would uke too long to explain here, the depth of the sea over a given area, the result being that a certain section of land, like N. W.ilcs, would be gradually submerged to the I I NOR'III WALES extent, it may be, of hundreds of feet. Along with this piecemeal submergence would come about the coincident lowering of tem]>erature. Bit by bit the country would be subjected to conditions of Arctic rigour, causing the higher ])cak8 of the islands we have described to be cipped with per- petual sno'v, and their sides to be ploughed and gouged and chiselled by down-sliding ice and the rocks and stones embedded in it. The effect of such ploughing and chiselling is still \isible — a script for all to read who care to — in many parts of N, Wales, and especially in the Snowdon region. But after a period of this kind there would be a gradual recovery. The seas would recede and the Arctic climate give place to a more tcmpeds of grit. Above this lies a g'cat series of volcanic rocks, consisting of felspathic lavas and ashes, commonly known as the green slates and porpliyries. With them arc associated the Llandeilo flag's, while above and passing into these lie the Car.idoc or Bala bevis. The upper strata ot the Silurian series, the Ludlow rocks, are not so much in evidence in the parts of which we are speaking as the Wenlock beds that come next in order, but are seen in the strata of Long Mountain, N. of Montgomery, and in their prolong.iiion, the Kerry Hills, dividing Montgomeryshire from Radnorshire. But while the Ludlow rocks are conspicuous by their absence, the Wenlock series present themselves over large though irregular areas. Shales of this period, beginning on the sea-coast of Denbighshire, extend with little interruption to the Dee, where it crosses '4 i PHYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY the country from W. to E., practically stamping the geological character of the country W. of Denbigh to the Conway, including of course the Hiraethog Hills, wliosc higlier levels are so often lonesome and desolate, yet possessed of a beauty and charm distinct from anything else in Wales. " Heather-stained and bird-haunted," one friend calls them. * Wenl;;ck shales are again to be found between the Cl.vydian range and the Halkin Mountains, as also in broad bchs and patches between Llan- fyllin and Llanerfyl, in the pleasant vales of the Cain and the Banw respectively, on the one hand, and Welshpool and Montgomery (stretching as far S. as Bishop's C.isdc) on the other ; in Long Mountain, W, of Welshpool, exhibiting "a transi- tion from the calcareous development of Shropshire to thf calcareous types of Denbighshire." The beauty of geologising in \Vales is that so much is laid open to the eyes and that a sturdy walker can run through so many chapters of nature's book, to examine and compare, in the course of two or thne days, nay, between the sunrise and sunset of one. Thus in a brief holiday one may study at first hand the flags and grits (Denbighshire grits), which, iritcrstratified with slaty shales, form the base of the Wcnlock series, ^s they appear in the valley of the Conway, and stretch thence as far S. as Melenydd. E. of Bala Lake this interesting band lies in a deep trough " from 2 to 4 m. wide, and the Tarannon shales and other rocks of the Berwyn Hills rise from underneath their eastern boundary," while N. of the Berwyns, between Corwen and Llangollen, *< the Denbighshire grits, more shaly in character, overlie the Tarannon '5 NORTH WALES shales, and in the valley of the Vyrnwy, and east- ward of Welshpool and Loop, Mountain, the sandy character of the ba^c ot the torni.ition dis.ij)[}ears." So says Ramsay. The Denbighshire grits are here underlaid by the Bala beds, which l)r Hicks divides into Upper and Louer, the l^ppcr consisting of shales, flaga, and limestone, the Lower of sandstone, shales, calcareous bands, and intcrbeddcd volcanic ash. The beds vary much in dirfirent districts, consequent on the uneven distribution of intcr- bedded volcanic rocks, and are characteristically drvcloj)cd at Bala, Snowdon, and in Anglesey. As to holidays, a long week-end could not be better 8j>ent than in the \ alley of the Tar.innon River (q.vOi ccially large quantities. The period of these Inneston*. beds is one of ^reat imi>oriance in the geological history of N. Waits, and cannot be too careluily studied. 'I'hcir eastward dip, S. of Bala, carries llicni under a long stiijtof Silurian rock, on the E. ot uhich they reapjRar and form the lan^e of the Berwyns, at tlie same lime giving the iloniinaol character to its scenery and largely intlucncing its Mora. In this district, while the Hirnai.t limestone has disappeared, tltc Bala limestone i> ^iiil prebent. During the epoch which produced these beds, the Snowdon region appi-ar» to have been the scene of enornious volcanic activity, and the lava and abhes iJjcn ^)Ourcd out are to be traced in prominent and striking characters on every hand. '*' North of Moel Siabod," says Ramsay, "the Bala beds assume a markedly ditlerent character from that whicli thi y possrss between Dinas Mav^ddwy and Dolwjddelan, for they contain a much greater Dun>ber of intei bedded felstones and volcanic aslus, wliich range not th wards to Conway, and theiice southwards along the higher Caeinarvonshire mountains. Carnedd Llewelyn, Carnydd Dafydd, Y Glyder-faur, Snowdon, and Moel Hebog are the chief mountains in the wildest and grandest part ot N. \\'alcs ; and these, like the ranges of Cader Idris, ii>e Arans, and Moelwyn, consist in a great degree oi volcanic products." Snowdon itself owes its premier position among Welsh mountains to several circumstances. Among these may be enumented the exticme haidness ot the beds of rock of which it is composed, and the NORTH WALKS |)osition in which they lie, bent into a synclinal curve that has greatly reduced the etfects ot rain, frost, and ice. This base of the mountain a fornied oi tin- slates and fossiliferous grits of tjje Bala beds. On these lie three extensive beds of fclspathic jiorphyry. Still higher are beds of felspathic, sandy, and volcanic ashes; while, high- est of all, are seen the remains ot a stratum of fiUpathic lava, here and there, in outlying portions, showin}', interstratifi cations of aihea. Till- way in which thc»e various stratifications have been acted upon bv the agencies of water and weather in the form of glaciers and allied pheno- mena, the reader will find referred to in the list ot places under "Snowdun," the "Pass ot Llunberis," **Nant Ffrancon" (pronounced ♦'Frangon"), etc. On the western flanks of the Caernarvonshire range we come upon the Cambrian grits and slates. The term Cambrian has been used some- what differently by different geologists. The purple grits and slates, to which the name was restricted by Murchison, form the greater part of the hills that lie immedi.iiely li. of Cardigan Bay. They are likewise welt seen in the anti- clinal W. of Snowdon, where the famous slate quarries of Diiiorwic, Nantlle, and Bethesda lie in the Cambrian strata, and where, it may be worth noting, a courteous application to the respective managers will generally result in permission being given to go over the quarries, so full of interest to the geologist. y In most places these Cambrian grits and slates C are unto&siliferous (or but doubtfully fossiliferous) ; f albeit at St David's, among the lower beds of this eeries, numerous fossils in purple shales have been 20 PHYSICAL FFATinU-S ANDSCENI-RY found, incluiiin;; a sniill liivatTp cruitnccnn and two brachlojiods, while in liighcr strata of the 8cric9 two spongrs and Tarious trilobitcs have rewarded the search of invc8ti;;ator». Thc:e Cambrian slates arc overlnid by the Linj^ula fiars, and thcv by the Llandcilo beds, whicli, with j>orphyritic intrusions, again lie below Caradoc or Bala strata. The same series is continued with little variation into Meri<'ncth- shire, where rhv Cambrian privjils from Maentwrog to Yarmouth, W. of the soutlu-rn road from Tiawilynydd (pronounced " Trows\unith ") to l)ol^;clly. If rises in what has Ix-en described as a dome, from which Lingula flags radiate on every side, risin;^ from the interbcdded igneous sixau of the I Iniiiriln .i;.;e. Jt)} il»;> imj on. mt series Ramsay says, "These vr>lcanic rocks belong to two wctions of the Cam- brian period, for the felstonc-porphyries and fels- p.ithic ashes, ' ' ; even the intrusive green- stones ot Ml; '. , were fornvd during the dc|X)sition of the Llamleilo strata, while the ^mc sjiejies of thick-bedded traps and ashes on Snow- don and the surrounding niountains are high in the lVil.> or Caradoc series. In both cases they form the highest mountain ridges in Wales, not from the upheaval caused by the intrusion of igneous masses in s{>ecial areas, but simply from the cir- cumstance that ion^ after their formation, and after the volcanoes had become extinct, the whole of the rocks of the area had been disturbed, and the igneous masses nov/ rise so high because they have better withstood disintegration than the solid rocks with which they are intcrbedded." It is possible that these notes on the geology of 21 NOR TH VVAI.FS N. Wale* may at first sight appear somewhat dry and fragmentary, as all scientific details must, unless the rcider bring a sympa'hetic mind to their con- sideration ; but let the holiday-maker, with the needful equipment for research, select any of the districts herein named, and with even these im- perfect notes as guide fthou/,h only designed to 4\viken interest), he will soon lind the dry Iwnes begin to stir and the whole subject glow and kindle with life. III. V»^ SICAI. !• I \H R t AMI ."x^^* v'Ri ^i_«iNTINi;H») — Lakis and RlVf«S The risers of a country are the sure guides to i^ most secret and picturesque recesses, and this is par- ticularly the case in N. Wales. It may be truly laid that he who know* the rivers of the country is acquainted with its rarest beauties and charms. These indeeti, to a very large extent, the water- courses make. /\ well-known artist has said that clouds arc the exprcision of landscape ; with equd truth it may be affirmed that water is its life. Take the great landscape paintings, and it will be found that <)0 per cent, of them owe their beauty and vitality to the water * ' ! in the view. No one, of course, is better aw a. lis than the artist, whose pencil and brush hare left few of the Welsh sueams untouched. The rivers of N. Wales are not large. There is but one among them of the lirst importance, and that belongs to N. Wales only in its upper reaches. Beauty, however, is an attribute that allies itself with the small and medium-sized more often than with the big, and hence in thc!>e N. Welsh streams 21 PHYSICAL Fl ATrRESANDSCF.NIRY wr often Imd a dclightaonicncM and charm almost in an invii»c ratio to their size. It ii not for us to say which ii tlic most beautiful of ihc6f livers. l%ach has iu special features that ally it to the beautiful : one in its broad and placid flow amid scenes of quiet and almost domestic fruit- fulness ; another in its savage wildncss; a third in iu combination of the two rxirenus. Many of the Welsh streams show this, the last-named, quality. Others, like the Severn and the Cluyd, ure almost uniformly bvlvan and idyllic in character. Theie iwo in particular have been singled out as presenting English rather than Welsh characteriitics. The first is, of course, in much the Lirgcr half of its course, an Lnglish river ; but the Clwyd is wholly Welsh ; vet the rale through which it flowt, a itrip, as we have seen, of new red sandstone, looks like i'h'n taken out of one of the near-lying pastoral counties of l.ngland and planted amid the older and more rugged formations of Cambria. •• Seen, say* Sir A. C. Ramsay, "from the heights above Bryn I'glwvs (alxjut 6 m. S. of Ruthin), there arc few scenes in Wales more lovely than the w»)oded plains of the Clwyd. Overlooked on one side by the barren range of Moel Famm.iu, and on the other by the limestone cliffs of Denbigh and Abergele, the fertile lowland forms a marked con- trast to the wildness of the hills amid which it lies, while far in the dist.ince the plain merges at length into the low allurial marshes that skirt the shores of Rhyl." The Clwyd has its source on the slope of B'on'v nog, near the border of Merionethshire It riows as a small rivulet through Gors Clwyd, and passes thence under the bridge Pont-y-Breteil!e, «3 NORTH WALES where it fornis the boundary of Denbigh and Merioneth. A little farther on it turns N. li., and runs close to Nam Clwyd. Flowing thence N., it is joined by the He»kin at Pont-Newydd- r.yarth, and after a course of 2 or 3 m. reaches Ruthin. V\i to this }K)int the valley oJ the Clwyd is narrow, and abounds in beautiful scenery. N. of Ruthin It enters upon a wide vale, " celebrated " ' iv« Lewis the Younger) •* for the richness of its ^"il, the luxuriousneis of its produce, and the cheerful beauty of its scenery." I'as^ing now between the villages of Llanvchan and l..ianynys, it i» prc»rnil\ joined by the Clywcdog, (lowing from the »lopr8 of Uulch Ddu, a little to the N. of Llandyrnog. Flowing now with steady broaden- ing currrn*. in a N.W. direction to St Asaph, picture*<{;.cly situated between the Clwyd and its tributary the LUy, the two unite their waters a couple of miles above Rhuddlan, whence through the wide and fertile Hat of Morfa Rhuddlan the brimming stream takes its way to the IriMi S.i, which it enteis immediately W. of Rhyl. The Dee, the largest river in N. Wales, and the most esteemcJ, has its source in the parish of I.l.inuwchliyn, under DJuallt Hill, some 4 or 5 m. S.W. of Bala Lake. It is here known as the Dyfrilwy, "the Water of the Divinity," the name which the Welsh still bestow on the whole of the river. Other derivations ot the name are current, but the one here given seems most in keeping with the great veneration in which the stream was anciently held by the native!*, who, when about to engage in battle, would devoutly bend down and kijs the earth, and then drink ot the sacred flood. Before entering the lake the Dee is joined by »4 PHYSICAL I- MATURES AND SCLNLRV two other btcanis, thi- Lliw and the Twrch, the three unitinj; their waters a little below the village of I.lanuwchllyn, and llowin;; into the Like at its S.W. i-xtrcniity, near L'aer Gai, an old Roman station. There was formerly a btronghold belonging to C'ai Hir ap Cynyr, or, a* Sjunser has called him, Timon, thf foster father of King Arthur, who ipent his youth here. The poet de6(.ribes the place in the beautiful lines- ■ Hit dwcUii)}; it lowc in a valky grrenc, Und« r the foot of Rauun Yr Aran") moiiy iiorr, From whence the ri\cr Doc, a« tilvcr clccnc, Uth tumbling billowo roll* with gentle rore." Bala Lake, Llyn Tegid, or Pmiblemere, as it is also 8o:iietinies callid, is about 4 m. in length, with an average briadth o! half a niile. Next to Lake Vyrnwy it is the largest in Wales. The scenery afound H is mountainous, though not of a character to render it particuLrlv striking. Still, under fitting conditions it is very beautiful, reminding one some- what of Windermere. As in the case of many other lakes, the w.iters of Llyn Tegid traditionally cover a city— Old Bala, as ilissonietimescalled — that vwus overwhelmed for its sins. The fishing (for trout and pike) in the lake is good, and is free over most of the N. section. A phenonu-non that used to be the source of much inconvenience to dwellers on the lower reaches ot the Dee, namely, the sudden rise of the lake under a S.W. wind, and its con>equeni overllow into the river, has been remedied of late years by the construction ot selt-acting sluices. Tennvbon, who spent some time in the neighbour- hood while engaged on his poem of " Geraint and Fnid," refers to this jxrculiarity in the much-admired simile — ^5 NORTH WALES " Her constant motion round liim, and t^e breath Of lier swctt tendance hovcrinjj over him, Fill'd all the genial corneri of his hlood With deeper and with erer dcrpcr lore, A» tlie «outh-we»t that blowing Bala lake FilU all the sacred Dee." The river, which, according to |K)pular super- BtitioQ (supported by so emiocnt an authority as Giraldus Camhrcnsis), passes througli the lake without minghng its waters therewith, emerges at the N.Li. corner, where it is sp.inned by a bridge, not far from Bala, called Pont Mwnwgl-y-llyn ("the Bridge at the Neck of the Lake"), near which arc to be seen traces of a former stronghold known as Castell Gronw (ertccd 1202). When the riTer issues from the lake it is (no withstanding the superstition) as a greatly augmented stream, and it is still further increased in volume before it has gone Tcry far, first by the Tryweryn, near Bala, and later, just bt-fore it reaches Corwen, by the Alurn (q.v. ). After quitting that town, it desv.-ends 300 ft. withiu a disunce of 10 m. Crossing then the county of Denbigh from W. to E., it takes its final northerly course soon after leaving the beautiful Vale of Llangollen, and after many a bend and turn at last mingles with the tide a little alx)ve Chester, having in the meantime been joined by the Ceiriog and the Alyn (q-v.). Whilv- the Clwyd and the Dee have a northerly course, the Severn, beginning with an E. and then an N.E. course, finally flows S. to the Bristol Channel As a Welsh river, however, its general direction is north-easterly. It has its rise in a small spring on the N.E. side of Plinlimmon, just above Blaen Hafren, and as the Hafren flows E. 26 PHYSICAI. FEATURES AND SCENERY to IJanidlocs, wlicrc it is joined by the Clywcdog. Its course then becomes more northerly till Cacrsws is reached. It is here but a narrow stream a few yards in width, winding along a vale much Hatter and more highly cultivated than is common in the Interior of Wales. Caersws is an old Roman station of considerable note, supposed to have taken its name from .i famous queen named Swsan. The site of the ancient encampment is still well marked, showing a quadrangular rampart, with traces of a fosse on the N.W. side. Caersws is situated in the midst of a valley watered by three other streams besides the " princely Severn," namely, the Tar.mnon, the Ceryst, and the Carno, all of them considerable affluents. I'rom Caersws the river pursues a winding course almost due E., " 'tween sedgy banks," as far as Newtown, where it turns more to the N. and reaches Abermulc Half a mile short of this place, on the N. side of the river, the ruins of Castell Dolforwyn are to be seen on the summit of a lofty hill, comnunding the whole of the surrounding country. From it a wide view of the \'ale of the Severn may be vbuiinrd, and of the river as it winds through it, amid a varied landscape of woody hill and lowland meadow. At the foot of the hill is the village of Dolforwyn, which means *• the Meadow of the Virgin," a name supposed to have reference to the legendary story of Sabrina, of which Milton makes such beautiful use in his " Comus." From Abermule the Severn takes a more northerly course, passing Berriew, where it is ioined by the Rhiw, and a little farther N. by the Camlad, or Camlet, which enjoys the distinction 27 NORTH WALES of being the only river that flows from I''ngland into Wales. From thence a slightly more easterly course is followed until Llandrinio is reached, where the stream turns due E. and quickly crosses the border into England, being joined by the Vyrnwy (or Fyrnwy) just before it quits the Principality. The river V'yrnwy has its rise in the lake of that name, which is situated some 6 m. S.E. of Bala Lake. Prior to 18H1 the valley in which Lake \'yrnwy now reposes was the bed of a stream of compiiratively small dimensions, the Vyrnwy, whose waters were supplied by a number of feeders having their sources on the slopes of Moel-y-cerrig (2049 ft.), Allt-yr-Erydd, Carrcg-y-big ('937 ^^O' and other summits of the P>crwyn range, forming the watershed between the counties of Montgomery and Merioneth. But in that year the Liverpool Corporation, having obtained the necessary powers, began the work of converting the valley into a huge reservoir for the supply of that city with water. It was a stupenduous task, but was carried out with entire success (thank'; to the ability of Mr G. F Deacon and Mr '1\ Hawksley, the engineers) ; the result being a lake neatly 5 m. in length (about I m. longer than Bala), and about half a mile in breadth, with an area of i i 20 acres. The crucial feat of this great undertaking was the construction of a dam across what we may call the outflow neck of the valley, whose trend is from N.W. to S.E. This dam or causeway (for it is both) is 1 172 ft. in length, and its total height 161 ft., 60 ft. of it being buried in the foundations. At its base it measures 120 ft. in thickness, its width gr.idually decreasing to a roadway of 20 ft. between the parapets. This roadway is carried 28 PIIYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY over thirty-three arches, the middle ones serving as outlets for flood water. In dry weather there is little if any overflow ; but when the rains come down and there is anything like a torrential rush from the hills, then the sight of their surplus waters coming over the dam in a cascade nearly 600 ft. wide and something like 80 ft. in depih is superb in the extreme. The water thus stored up is conveyed to Liver- pool, a distance of 75 m., by means of an aqueduct, in parts underground, going by way of Oswestry (where it is filtered through sand) and Mai pas to the local reservoirs at Prescot, the total supply, when required, being calculated at 40,000,000 gallons per diem. The work connected with this gigantic undertaking includes a tower standing in the lake some distance from the shore and rising I r 3 ft. above the water, its purpose being to give the water, before starting on its course, a preliminary fdtering through copper wire gauze ; a tunnel 2}. m. long at the outflow from the lake at Hirnant ; a carriage road of 13^ m. round the lake, and in addition a line hotel at the S.E. end of it, over- lobking the near village of Llanwddyn (q.v. ). The hotel is well placed, high above the lake, and commands a fine view, both of the Vyrnwy \'alley and the splendid stretch of water that fills it, and of Aran Mawddwy and other heights in the distance. It is worthy of note th:it Vyrnwy, the largest lake in Wales, l-.as nothing of the artificial about its appearance. It looks as natural as Bala, and though different in its surroundings, is quite as beautiful an object. There is good fishing to be had in the lake, trout being fairly abundant. The river Vyrnn'y emerges from the lake at its 29 NORTH WALIZS S.E. end, and after (lowing fir«t S. and then K. ♦or some diitance (taking the name, along one stretch, ol the licclian), it finally adopts a N.E. course, passing Meilod and LlaniuntHraid-yn- Mrchan (at the latter place turning l£.), and after a n^cioviering run oi some miles joining the Severn at McUerley. Next to the Dee, prrha|>s the most im|eculiarly shaped lake on !»■ • '■• -* ■ '• ' ' •'. ■ ■' ' -V the ..■ V . , I li meet, 'i'he lake is situated amid a wild confusion ot rocks, ii w^- .cied with bogs, and h.in for burl ■ . every side ooe or other of th. . ••'• !• lowing iwiftly over its ruggcil mountam course, the river soon reaches Yipytty Ivan. B<-ii>w this place, atter p.i»er chanoel and larger masses of impeding rock. Ir - vi in volume by the waters ot tne Machno — V -es on the rocky Uwlch Carrcg-y-fran and, descending N.E. through a mountain gorge, 30 PHYSICAL FLATURLS AM) SCLNtRY passes Pcnniachnu, and thence liurrie* to extinction — the Conway, nuking ;i rapid turn, shoots with great velocity over a nuM of rock in two narrow falls, uV(.T which towers a lofty rock known as Craig-y-Ddina«. About a niilc below tiie tall* tiie river is joined by the Llcdr, when, turning due N., it cootinues hi course amid most beautiful scenery, in which mountain and woodland are charmingly blended, until lieltws - y - coed i« teached. Here the Conway is joined by the LIugwy. The scenery now becoives tamer and mure tylvan in character, though in parts ktill very beautiful ; and as the \ale widens and cultivation increau-s, as is the case when Llanrwat is leached, the scene presented on all sides is one of almost romantic peace and quiet. The same tejtures |>ersi8t as the river Howb on, \^ii Trefriw and 0:ierhuii, to its outlet into the sea by Conway town. During its course of about 30 m. the Conway receives, besides the streams already mentioned, the Waters of the Ceirw, the Cletur, the Atboddu, ll»e l*orth-lwyd, the Dulyn, etc. In its u; • rr Touches the ri\er abounds with trout, and has 11,..;, vourite resorts for anglers ; while its mouth has Uen celcbr.-ted from the earliest times for the pearl mussel, which still has its seekers as cf old, thou^;h it does not apptar to be a very proutable industry. I or some 10 m. from its mouth tiie Conway is a tidal water, and is n by steamers and other craft up to a hundreu ..^..0 uarden. The Ogwen, a purely Caernarvonshire river, has iu source in Y Tryfan, that immense pile of baie rock in the heart of Snowdonia, whtnce, tiowing under a wocKien footbridge, it eot' rs Llyn Ogwen. 3> NORTH WALES The river cniergts from this long and somewhat gloomy expanse of water at its western ixtremity, when, after pssing under a small bridge, its waters arc augmented and its velocity incrcabcd by the inrush of a mountain torrent descending through a cleft in the rocks from Llyn Idwal. The Ogwcn now dashes forward amid rocks and stones, bound- ing from ledge to ledge till, after a descent ul sonjc 200 ft., it reaches the narrow valley of Nant Ffrancon (saiil to signify the Beaver Glen), 3 m. in length. Here its turbulence is reduced to a calmer How, as it winds its way amid green me.idows at the foot of stopenJous heights. An excellent road runs through the vale to Bethesda and Bangor, pa^sing on its way Ogwen Bank, a sliooting scat belonging to Lord Penrhyn. Lower down, the valley of the Ogwen broadens out, and as Bethesda is approached signs and sounds of slate quarrying arc more and more seen and heard, until the traveller finds himselt in the midat of a scene as busy aod striking as any to be witnessed in the country. It is well-nigh impossible to give the reader an idea of the almost stupendous nature of the scenery he encounters in pursuing his way along the valley of the Ogwen. The height of the mountains, CNpecially to the S., the grandeur of their outlines, the immense fragments, roches motitonnees, as the geologist calls them, everywhere visible on the mountain sides, and looking as though they might come down at any moment — ail combine to create in the mind of the observer a feeling of w onder and astonishnient not unmi.xed with awe. The im- pression is in some res})ects deepened when he rerifcts upon the forces that have \x-ea :it work y PHYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY through the ages scooping out the vales and hollows on either hand, and perching gigantic fragments on dizzy slopes, which one thinks a breath might topple down and bring crashing to the bottom. Nowhere in N. Wales are there more striking evidences of glacial action than those presented in Nant Ffracjcon and some of the cwms o|)ening into it. ** From Ogwcn Jiank. to the ground opposite Ty'n-y-maes," says Professor Ramsay,' *• for a distance of a mile, all the low ground of the river is occupied by smoothly glaciated, undulating rocks, marked by numerous smaller mammillations, and dotted with erratic blocks, chiefly of felsjiathic porphyry." Moreover, "any one who will take the trouble to ascend Cwm Ccunant will also find stria- in the lower part o{ the valley running in the same direction " (that is, a little \V. of N.) ; «• and what is more remarkable, on the ice-worn Cam- brian grits that form the shoulder of Bron Llwyd, at a higher level than the Pcnrhyn sKite quarries, well-marked stri;v follow the same course about 700 ft. above the river, probably intimating that at a certain period the ice of the glacier was here at lea*t of that height." Similar phenomena are to be seen on every hand throughout this wonderful vale, but nowhere more strikingly than in Cwm Graianog, in which, "at the mouth of the valley al>ove the steeper descent to Nant Ffrancon, a small but beautifully symmetri- cal terminal moraine crosses the valley in a crescent- shaped curve." iVLiny other of the N. Welsh river valleys present > In his "Old Gbciers of Switzerland and North Wales." ^ 33 NORTH WALES similar phenomena, including that of the Seiont ; but it must suffice in this section to refer to the Mawddach, with its tribuLiry the Wnion, and the Dwyryd. The last-named, which flows through the N.W. district of Merionethshire, has its name from //ffy, two, and rhyii, a ford or pJ8sagc--the Cynfael and the Rrurry, which at their junction become the Dwyryd, being both fordable at that point. The Cvnfael rises in the mountains to the II. and rushes with great impetuosity through a deep and narrow glen, forming two or three con- siderable cascades and a ouoiber of smaller ones in its course. The principal ones, which are within an easy walk oi Ffestiniog, arc well worth a visit, as is alio Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, concerning which there is an amusing legend, prokibly more than half apocryphal. The Rrarry is formed by the united waters of several mountain torrents, the two leading ones coming down from Llyn Tigil and a lakelet on the side ot Moelwvn named Cwm Orthin. I'festiniog is situated ;it the junction of the twt> streams, both of which are crossed by bridges cloic to their confluence. From that over the Rrurry a most pleasing view is obtained. After leaving Ffestiniog the Dwyryd flows tranquilly amid delightful scenery to Macntwrog, where is a bridge uniting that place with Tan-y- Bwlch and its noted inn, the " Oakley Arms." Below Macntwrog the river is joined by the Felenryd, which rises in the hills beyond Traws- fynydd, and on its way to the Dwyryd forms the celebrated falls known as the Raven and the Rhaiadr Du (the Black Cataract). The Dwyryd now enters the sands of Traethbach, and its waters are soon lost in Cardigan Bay. The whole of this 34 PHYSICAL FEATURES AND SCENERY famousvalc, withitsncighbouringcwmsand hollow8,is full of geological interest, and in especial Cwm Orthin, which Professor Ramsay particularly recommends " all walking tourists " to visit, in order to sec and examine the "series of magnificent rochei moutonncrt And blocs perches below the mouth ot the lake, which are best scon looking down the valley." The Mawddach has its source in the parish of IJanuwchllyn, deriving its first waters from iJyn-vr-y-Wann. For some miles it Hows throuj^h a dreary and uninteresting country, with the bold crags of Rhobell I'awr overlooking it to the S., and bare, heathcr-co\ered hills to the N. For the lirst 4 or 5 m. of its course it runs due W. Then it bends a little more to the S,, and just Ih-Iow the Morgan Gold Mines descends a series of rocks in a beautiful tall (much marred by th6 stream being j)artially diverted to turn a large water-wheel connected with the mines). In spite of the works, however, the cascade xa a very fmc one, being broken into three distinct ponions by projecting rocks. The ravine, moreover, through which the river forces its way, being well wooded, adiis greatly to the ertectiveness of the picture. Immediately below the fall the Mawddach is joined bv the Cain, and, continuing its southerly course, successively receives the tribute of the Eden and the Camlan, the former coming from the vicinity of Y Graig-ddrwg, the latter from the hills to the W. A little l^elow its confluence with the Camlan the river takes its course through the Glanllwyd Valley, and presently reaches Dolgelly, to be there united with the Wnion in the woods of Hcngwrt. The Wnion has its rise on the N. slope of Aran Btnllvn. 3 m. S.W. of r>ala Lake. Thence it 35 NORTH WALES passes Drws-y-Nant, and, pursuing a S.W. course, enters a rocky gorge and, making a number of cascades, finally arrives at Pont Newydd, a stone bridge of a single arch. The scenery through which the increasing Wnion now flows is of a most magnificent character. " Tlie river, meandering among verdant meadows, is accom- panied on the S.E. by a hill covered with wood feathering down to the water's edge, above which is a heathv plain, succeeded by wide-spreading masses of barren rock or heath, the whole crowned by the great craggy peaks of Cadcr Idris." Pursuing its course, the river, approaching Dol- gelly through a delightful vale, turns more to the W., skirta the town on the N.,and passing beneath a handsome stone bridge, hastens to its junction with the Mawddach. The extensive slope of hill and moorland marked by the valleys of the Mawddach and the Wnion, though on a scale so much larger, is no less inter- esting geologically than the valley of the Ogwen. All the strintions in the valley of Dolgelly and the estuary of the Mawddach, says Sir Andrew Ramsay, follow the south-westerly trend of the valley, the glacier that filled it when at its greatest being fed by the snows of the slopes of Cader Idris and Aran Mawddwy, and those of the tributary valleys that joined it from the N. From a central low watershed, near the sources of the Wnion, another branch passed north- easterly into and far beyond the region now occupied by Bala Lake. The evidences of this glacial action are to be seen in the rocks exposed among the sands at low tide in the Mawddach estuary and in the marshy 36 FLORA AND FAUNA Hats opposite Barmouth, as well as in all the \ alleys ot a westerly trend in the Merioneth mountains ; and those interested in such matters may spend days and even weeks, with no less picasuie than profit, in the examination of these wonderful "records of the rocks." IV. Flora and Fauna The botanist will find in N. Wales a fine field for his studies, and this for tlie reason that he has not only tlie sea-siiorc .ind the plains, with their varied plant lite, for his researches, but the moun- tains also, with their diflcrent form* of vegeta- tion, their lakes, and their bog-lands. Perl-.aps the mountainous parts present the most of inte- rest to the botanically minded, and yet it may be dotibted whether the experienced hand in these matters would not give the palm to Anglesey, the flattest of the six N. Welsh counties. For Angle- sey having an extensive range of coast, with much sandy beach, marsh and bogland, affords excep- tional conditions for variety of flora. What is mare, in comparison with some districts, like that of Snowdon, it is as untrodden ground, and thus has not been denuded of its rarities by the hands ot the unscrupulous collector. The sands and marshy flats between Abertfraw and New- borough, on the S.W. coast, are particularly rich in certain sea-grasses, rushes, and the like. Among other rarities that may be found there are vireuaria peplo'tdes (Sea Purslane), Aretuiria tenuifolia (Fine- leaved Sandwort), P/'/rwm arenarium (Sand Timothy Grass), Cramhe maritima (Seakale), Erigeron acris (Fleabane ^ngtron), SiUm: mjnunut (Sea Campion), 37 NORTH WALES Mathiola sinuaUi (Sci Slock), Rupia nuiritima (Tatscl Pond Weed). Another interesting plant found here, especially about Ncwborough Sands, is the Sea Matwced or Maram [Pjamma arenar'ta), the weaving of which into mats, etc., forms quite an industry in the neighbourhood. In the same vicinity (Macs - y - Porth Woods) is, or was, found the pretty Star of Bethleliem {^Oniilhogalum umbellLitum ) . Among other j)Iants which tind a favourite habitat in Anglesey are the Yellow Water-lily [Nuphitr lutea), found in slow rivers and ponds ; the Spotted Rock-rose [Hellimihei,ium guttiUum) \ the Marsli Gentian (^Gent'iana pneumotianthe) ; the Marsh Cinquefoil ( Potent'ilLi palustre) ; the Narrow- leaved Speedwell [reronicj scutfLtla), which loves swamps and pond sides, as does likewise Lyslmachla vulgiita (tlie Yellow Looscstripc). The Blue Flea- bane {^Ertgeron act is) is, or was, found on the little island of Llanddwyn (pronounced " Thianthooin " — q.v. ), and the Sea Bindweed {^Convolvului toldiinella) on sandy coasts (as well as in Merioneth and Caernarvonshire). The beautiful Flowering Rush [liutomus umbtilalus) atfects the rivulets and ditches, on whose banks may frequently be found Ap'tuni graveolem (Smallage or Celery). Asparagus offjcinalls (Common Asparagus) is found on sandy banks by the sea, near AberfTraw ; also, on the same coast. Beta maritima (Sea Beet). Statice arenaria and 5. Hmontum (Common and Lavender Thrift) are found on the N.E. coast (the former especially at Dulas Bay), as well as on the Merioneth coast. It is noteworthy, too, that arenaria is found on Snowdon. Smyrnum olusatuin (Alexanders) and Iris fatiJinima (the 3« FLORA AND FAUNA Purple Iris) have made a home for themselves on the island of Priestholm, the latter at the foot of the old tower. Both Salicomia herlacea ( Marsh Sam]ihirc) and Crtthmum maritutium (Rotk Sam- ])hire) are found in Anglesey, the latter being also found in LIcyn (between Clynnog and Nevin), and on the^leiionetli coast. Other shore jilants, which, though not common, are met with in different localities arc Scilla verna (Vernal Squill — clitfs in Anglesey, Gloddaeth, and Barmouiii) ; Eryngium marit'tmum (Sea I'lolly — Harlech) ; Alertensia maritima, or Sea Lung- wort (found on Orme's Head, in Anglesey, and in Lleyn) ; Euphorbia segetitlis, or Portland Spurge (sandy coasts in Caernarvonsiiirc, Anglesey, and Merioneth) ; Glaucium /uteum, the beautiful Yellow Horned Poppy (between Catrnarvon and Llan- fafglan, about Llandudno, and in Merioneth) ; Glaux maritima, the Sea Milkwort (near Conway and at Dulas Bay, Anglesey). The Evening Primrose {^GLnothrra lirmiis) is found at Barmouth ; also the brilliant V^ipers' Bugloss [Echium vulgare) ; the pretty Sea Stock (^Maitbij/a sinuaia) ; and the somewhat rare Speedwell, known to botanists as J^eronica hybricia (found likewise on the Breidden Hills in Montgomeryshire). But we are now getting on to flowers which, though found on the seaside, are not specially shore plants. Thus, while the delicate Buttcrwort [Ptngiiiiula vulgaris) maybe met with in marshy spots along the wild Merionethshire coast, it is not uncommon on boggy wastes among the Caernarvon- shire mountains. The same may be said of the Welsh Poppy (^Aliconopsis Cambrica), said to be very rare now about Barmouth, though formerly 39 NORTH WALK.^ plentiful, which ii, or was, to be found near IJanbrris and on Urciiidcn Hill ; also of the Commor " i n ^ . . - • ' , r !. : •-■' Other j>l : . . .• i - dudno. Wc i-idly want a "do " lor tilants, it not r- -• •• ' '•- ■• ''•■•• in v,.,.,v » like Snowdon, the I le'i Head, Uarmouth, etc., where the thoughtleu visitor is liable to spoil every- thing he can lay his h.ind» on. All tl.'- 's j,>v^ •M'Tered from thi» mania for •'i»'^'-. ...^, . ji I y the central district ot S: :.:a. For thu rrasoo, therefore, in the following notes on the flora of " ' ' . ""age we »h-" ' t for the ;.. .: ,-.: ; .. ,. ,; precise i--_. ..-». There is no harm, hoacver, in uying that three specie* of Cotton Sedge ( Eriopbontm jsi^matum, !' ' ' ' E. amgutlif'Jmm) may be found r- -. 1 . - ,:nc first also near Llyn Aled). In much the ume area are to be seen PLnHj^o marittma (Sea Plantain), Gj/ium kmi/e (Cross- I' ' Oalium), and LoUlia Dortm.: ^Vater ( ' : while near Llaoberis boti. ^ mmla / . nd C hfiltnuea (the Common Harebell and the Ky-leared Car are not ur T' - ■ ■ • ■ - I has IK): >ri iieen exiiquu , iiuui In the same district are to be found the delicate Grass of Farnauus {^Parnattia f^lmjlrtj) ; the Ro rd and the Oral Sun- (!-• ' / ' • • ; and /ofi^;;if'o/ui) ; the »•. .m jerolinum) ; the Bog or Lancashire Asphodel {S'arthecium ojji/rijgum)^ which nuv l* met with also in the neighbourhood of I' S ; Rosebay Willow-herb {^Epiloh'uim angu . . ; Mounuin Thalictrum {^Tharu-trum FLORA AND lAUNA ^■fifHnum) ; and •c\rrjl intcrcftting Saxifrages. 'I'hrre u nu harm, pcrhajx, in bjyiog that the alwa\t dclijjhtiomc Glubc i' lower [Iroiliui Kyroj^uj) \% to be njct with in the \'ale of Llanberis ■" ' -n nioiit nuuks about Barmouth, or (hat Cnmhrica (\VeUh CfolJenrod) may be icen "in •rason due on tt.r slojtei of Glyder. This list of SnowJun and district plant* might be l-irgely extended, but it will be enou^^h to ihow that there it a rich field for the earnest botanist — the one who, it is to be hoj)ed, wiil more and more *»r.ir in mind the lines o\ the song : — ' You may look, but jrou niu«( not touch—- Krcp your hand* oil ! " O^ hurvey to idx hat been confined in the nuin to An^lckcy and Caeriurrooshire, with excurnoiM into Mtrioncih, but there i« - - - • '• llut llic o.Lcr counties are ■ ^ i these. How rich is Merioneth may be gathered Irom the fact that one flower-lover alone has made a li>t of ncrlv - ~ -rcics, and it refers to the diit.Mi-t .tbov.: V).. only. Most of ti.cse, of course, are the common wild flowirs that deck e\ery waytide, ercry meadow arnl wood. For the more uncommon sorts we must wander a little off the bca'.en track. Thus if we narch tome of tiie turfy bogs of Merioneth we may come across the somewhat rare Ruhut Cham^morvj TCIoud- berryj. h is found only among the hills. In the Uerwyns it is known in Welsh at Mwyar Bcrwyn, these mountains being rather a favourite habitat tor it. As the Bcrwyns are known for Cloudberry, so Cader Idris is known for the Red 4' NORTH WALES Whortleberry (^ra,cinium l^itis-ii/a-a), which atfecu dry heathy moors and open woods. There is anotlier yacdmum fairly common, nor onlv on the mountain heaths and woods of Merioneth and Caernarvonshire, but on the other mountains, namely, V. Myrtlllus (the Bilberry, Blaeberry, or Common Wortleberry). Faccluium Osycoccos (the Cranberry) is likewise occasionally met with in peaty bogs in Merioneth and Caernarvonshire. Of tlie vSaxifragis, the starry variety i^S. stellans), is found on Cadcr Idiis as well as in the district about Snowdon, while the Purple Saxifrage [Sast- fraga oppositifol'ta) is met with about Bai mouth. These do not exhaust the list of Saxifrages, but space will only allow us to select. Llyn Tccwyn Isaf, between Tan-y-bwich and Harlech, is not the only place in Merioneth in which the White Water Lily [Nymphaa alba) may be seen, but it grows (or did grow) there in great profusion, and very beautiful it looked. It is found also in Llyn Mwyngil between DolgeFly and Machynlleth (pronounced " Mahuntleth "). This is of course the Cader Idris region, where may also be met with Thalutrum minus (the Lesser Meadow Rue), the pretty Genista p'tlosa (Hairy Grcenweed), and, gemming the springy turf with its pretty golden calices, the tiny Tormcntil [Potentilla Torment'illa) . Among rarer Merioneth species we may mention the delicate Butterfly Orchis [Habenaria b'tfolla), found in moist spots around Bala; the Clammy Groundsel (Senesio viscosus), noted for its fly-catching properties, a very rare plant, but met with on the shores of Bala Lake ; Perennial Knawel [Scehranthus pereiinis)^ between Corwin and Bala; and the pale, 42 FLORA AND FAUNA rosy-flowered Floating Water Plaintain {^Alisma nalans), found at the S. end of Llyn Tcgid. There are a number of places noted for certain flowers. Thus at Valle Crucis Abbey grows the Deadly Nigiushadc [Atropa Bdladoniui) and Sweet Cicely [Myrrhis odorala) ; while amid the ruins of Basingwerlc Abbey, Flintshire, are found the beautiful blue Evergreen Alkanet (^/Inchusa sem- perviretis)y the Greater Snapdragon (^/Int'irrhhitiin majus), and the handsome Soapwort [Saponar'ui ojidnalis), with its pale pink or nearly white flowers. The last named grows also between Llanrhaiadr and the cataract of Piityll Rhaiadr in Montgomeryshire. Equally noted tor several rare plants is Breidden Hill in the same county. There is found the Viscid I,ychnis or Catchfly [I,.ychtiis viscaria), the Rock Potcntilla [Potfnt'tlla rttpeslns)^ and the beautiful white-flowered Beam Tree [Pyrus Arii). This is found also on Pcnmaenniawr and at Gloddacth, where are to be seen also Wild Madder [Ritbta peregrtna)^ the Spring Potentilla [Potentilla Ferna), the Hoary Rockrose [Hilumthemum canum), and the Notting- haVn Catchfly [Silene nutans). This last named is found also at several places in Flintshire, and the Rockrose at Dyserth Castle in the same county, where grows also the Lady's Fingers Kidney Vetch ( Anthyllis vulmraria. ) Among other Flintshire rarities may be men- tioned, V'lnca minor (the Lesser Periwinkle), about St Asaph ; Gcnt'iana AmareUa (the Autumnal Gentian), at Holywell and Rhuddlan ; Gentiana campestr'ts (Field Gentian), in the same localities; Al'isma ranunculoides (Lesser Water Plantain), near Prestatyn; Cklora perfoliata (Yellowwort), 43 NORTH WALES at Holywell ; Chrysosplenium a/urriij'o/ium (Alter- nate-leaved Golden Saxifrage), near Mold; Poly- gonum Biiioria (Great Snakeweed), near the same place; Stellar'ui nemorum (the Broad-leaved Stitch- wort), on the bank ot the Clwyd between St Asaph and Rhuddlan ; yfrenaria verna (Mountain Sandwort), between St Asaph and Holywell ; L'tnar'ta CymbaLiria (Dry-leaved Snapdragon), near Mold; ylilragalus (/aniens (Purple Astragal), about Caergwrle Castle and vicinity. jislragnlus glycsphyllos (Milkvctch) — not so handsome a plant as the foregoing, though interesting — is found at Yspytty, Denbighshire ; and in the same region, that is, tlie one covered by the Hiraethog Mountains, largely composed ot Denbigh grits, may be found the following, among others : Centunculus minir/iij (B.istard Pimpernel); Rkamnus calharticus (Purging Buckthorn); Fiola palustr'ts (Marsh Violet) ; AmlromctLi poiifolia (Wild Rosemary), both near Llyn Alcd ; Stellaria ultg'tnoia (Bog Stitchwort) and Alalva nwschata (Musk Mallow), both near Llanrwst ; Calamlntha Ac'tnos (Basil Thyme), near Henllan ; Linaria minor (Lesser Linaria) and Antirr/.'inum oront'tum (Lesser Snap- dragon), both near Abergele; and Faccinlum uUginosuni (Bog Bilberry), in the woods about Llanrwst. Denbigh itself is a good centre for botanising, and within a short radius of the town arc to be found many rare and interesting plants. Among the number may be mentioned, Lithospermum purpurea caruleum (Creeping Gromwell) ; Jasione montana (Hairy Sheep's Scabious); Convalarta majal'is (Lily of the Valley) ; Adoxa MoschateUina (Tuberous Moscatel) ; Daphne Laureola (Spurge 44 FLORA AND FAUNA Laurel); and Nff/florus virUis and Jirtit/us (Green and Fetid Hellebore), yldoxa is found also near Llyn Idwal. The valley of the Severn is rich in characteristic types, but we have space to name only a few. Reseda luteola (Wood or Dyer's Rocket) is met with aboufCastell Dolforwyn (as likewise in spots in Anglesey) ; Rosa vlllosa (the Downy Rose), about Llanidloes and district; Rosa Pimpinrlltfolia (Burnet or Scotch Rose), near Llanymynech (and, with the former, in parts of Merioneth) ; Hottonia palustris (Water V^iolet), about Pool Quay and Welshpool ; Litium usltittisslmum (Com- mon Flax), near Montgomery, where also is found Potenlill.i argeniea (Hoary Potentil). In former times the whole of the Snowdon district was thickly wooded. It was known to the linolish as Snowdon Forest, and it was on this account that its fastnesses were so formidable to the invaders. The chief growth ot these hills and vales was the oak. That, however, is a thing of the past, and though there are still well-wooded demesnes in Caernarvonshire, as in Denbighshire and Nferioneth, it is Montgomeryshire that has the reputation of being the best timbered county in N. Wales. Formerly it was a leading source for the supply of oak for the Navy, and it may be that the cessation of that demand is the cause of timber being less cultivated than formerly. Most of the common British trees thrive well, including the beech, the ash, the willow, the mountain ash (Pyrus aucuparia), the hawthorn, the holly, and especially the yew, of which many of the churchyards present marvellous old specimens. The general fauna is much the same as in other 45 NORTH WALES parts of the island. Tliere are evidences, as well as records, of the beaver having been a denizen of some of the Welsh streams ; but that, of course, was many centuries ago. The chief four-footed animals still found in a wild state are the fox, tiic otter, and the badger, the last named being occasion- ally met with in the less cultivated i)art8, while the otter in a good many of the rivers competes with the angler for their finny prey. Of the feathered tribes, although a stray eagle is occasionally seen and shot, it can hardly be said to be a deni/en. Some of .the FakoniJit are found among the mountains and — more plentifully — along rocky parts of the coast. In this respect Anglesey and ]>art8 of Lleyn may be designated a veritable bird paradise. Here --and notably at S. and N. Stacks, Priestholm, and the cliffs about Aberdaron — not only the commoner sorts of seabirds, such as gulls, guillemots, cormorants, razor-bills, curlews, etc., may be seen in tens of thousands, but rarer kinds also, as divers, pigeons, stormy-petrels, puffins, gannets, and among others the peregrine falcon (sec S. and N. Stacks and Priestholm). The manihy flats on the S. coast of Anglesey, us likewise along the coast of Merioneth, are also favourite haunts of some of the rarer species of gulls, the heron, plover, etc. V. Industries and Population Population and industry go together in N. Wales as elsewhere. Where agriculture is the main occu- pation, population is sparse ; where mining, manu- facturing, and other industries are established, there population increases. Thus Caernarvonshire, with 46 INDUSTRIES AND POPULATION its enormous slatequarriesjhasa populationof upwards of 125,000, showing a very considerable increase ijince the beginnng of the 19th cent., when it was calculated to be 16,800. The counties that stand next inpopul.ition are Denbigh and Flint, the latter, with 81,485, being the largest according to area. Flintshire has always been noted for its mining and allied industries, and hence, as being the most densely ])opulated of the N. Wales counties, its increase in this respect being less marlced than that of Denhighsiiire. But while Caernarvonshire ■increased sevenfold and Denbighshire will on to fourfold, Montgomeryshire barely doubled its population. This county, with Anglesey, is the most purely agricultural, but the population of the island county has considerably more than doubled si|ice 1806, owing no doubt in large measure to the d'evelopment of Holyhead. Mfrionethsiiire has in the same time increased tVom 20,000 to nearly 49,000. While the chief industry of Anglesey is agri- cultural, it does an active trade in the raising and export of mineral products. Parys Mountain has l-><*en noted tor centuries for its coppor-ore, and though its yield in this respect is not so great as formerly, it is still considerable. A useful grey marble and granite are also quarried, and the coal seams have been worked to some extent. The island produces likewise lead, a little silver, potter's clay, magnesia, and sulphur. As regards agriculture, it has greatly improved during the last generation or two through the introduction of better methods, and now, besides a considerable export of cattle, it does a large trade in butter, cheese, hides, etc. Although Caernarvonshire has some extent of 47 NORTH WALES cultivable surface (in the various cwins and hollows of the hills and in the valley of the Conway), which sustains a hardy r.ice of sheep and herds of small black cattle, yet the wealth produced by these and other products ot the soil is as nothing compared with the yifld of the mines and quarries. The quarries of slate in particular, as at Bethcsda, Nantlle, Dinorwic, and other places, employ tens of thousands of men, and bring enormous wealth into the coun'.ry. In addition, copper, lead, and zinc are found in considerable quantities. Like its neighbour county Caervarvon, Denbigh is rich in minerals. Coal, iron, lead, and slates arc its chief mineral products, and they have given rise to extensive ironworks and other manu- facturing industries, carried on chiefly at Wrexham and Ruabon. A fair proportion of the over 400,000 acres of surface, however, is devoted to agriculture and the rearing and tending of sheep, the latter chiefly on the bare uplands of the Myncdd Hiraethog. The soil of Merioneth is poor, and suitable only for pasturage ; its farmers are raisers of cattle and sheep, and the county is famous for its breed of ponies. Its chief minerals are slate, lead, man- ganese, .ind gold (the last named obtained at the Morgan and other mines near Dolgclly) in small quantities. Montgomeryshire, with its wide fertile valleys, its beautiful woodlands, and its extensive moors, is noted alike for its tillage and for its countless flocks of sheep. It has considerable manufactures of flannel, is famous for its breed of small horses, and does some business in lead-getting and coal-mioing, the latter on the confines of Shropshire. 48 ROADS AND RAILWAYS Although five of the counties of N. Wales can boast of a seaboard of some extent, none of them possesses a port of the first rank. Holyhead is the most important from tlie point of view of the tonnage that passes through it (chieliy to and from Ireland) ; but as regards foreign-borne trade it is outclassed 'by both Caernarvon and Portmadoc, whence are shipped so large a quantity of the slates derived from the neighbouring quarries. It wouKI not do to close this section on popula- tion and industry without referring to the wealth and increase that have been added to the country through the development of its watering-j.Iaces and the tourist traffic generally. This is one of the results of what has not very prettily been called '* railw lyism," and is a very modern feature. Fifty yeprs ago Llandudno, the largest and most fashion- able of N, Welsh walcring-placey, was but an insignificant village with a single inn ; now it counts a permanent population of upwards of 9COO inhabi- tants — a numl)er which is probably trebled during the summer season. Rhyl, with hardly a thousand less oi population, repeats the same story. In 1830 it Vas a mere fishing village, and so late as 1844 was but a township of Rhuddlan. And these are only two of the many coast and other towns and villa;;es that annually derive profit and something of the stir and throb of the outer world from the come and go of tourist and visitor traffic. VI. Roads and Railways N. Wales is well provided with both roads and railways. The chief lines of railway that serve the needs of the country are the London & North-Western, the Great Western, and the D 49 NORTH WALES Cambrian systems. The two former are, of course, main lines from London ; both have stations at Shrewsbury, which is perhaps the most con\cnicnt point from which to get to all parts of N. Wales by those travelling from the S. Both lines, too, have a joint station at Chester, which is naturally the special gate to Wales from the N. The main line of the L.N.W. R. runs via Flint, Rhyl, Conway, and Bangor to Holy- head. It has also a branch line from Llandudno .lunction to Blaenau-Ftestiniog ; also a continuation from Bangor to Caernarvon and Afonwen (between Criccieth and Pwllheli). The Great Western main line runs via Whittington, Chirk, and Ruabon to Llangollen, Corwen, and Bala to Dolgelly, where it meets the Cambrian system, which has a line N. to Harlech, and thence via Port- madoc to Criccieth and Pwllheli (pronounced "Poolth-hely "); also an extension S. to Towyn and Aberdovey. The Cambrian main line connects these places with Oswestry, via Machynlleth, Cemmes Road (whence there is a branch line to Dinas Mawddwy), Moat Lane Junction, Newtown, and Welshpool. The Cambrian has a continuation also from Oswestry to Ellesmere and Whitchurch (Salop), where it joins the I,.N.W.R. for Crewe, etc. We must not forget the Great Western line from Bala to Ffestiniog. In addition to these various main lines there are a number of other shorter lines that serve special districts, as, for instance, that from Chester, vid Boughton and Hope, to Mold and Denbigh ; the one from Wrexham to Flint, via Holt ; and the line from Chester to Wrexham and Ruabon, for SO ROADS AND RAILWAYS Llangollen, Coiwen, etc. From Wrexham there is also a mineral line to Holt. From Shrewsbury, besides the line (joint L.N.W. and G.W.) running to Buttington (where it joins the Cam- brian), there is the G.W, line via Whittington and Gobowen for Chirk and Ruabon. This crosses tlie Cambrian at Whittington. Several short branches are thrown otF from the Cambrian betwixt Oswestry and Newtown. One of these starts from Llynclys, a few miles S. of Oswestry, and runs via BlodwcU Junction (whence is a short branch to Llanymynech) to Llnngynog. (At Llan-y-blodwell note the church with the detached tower.) Another runs from Llanymynech to Llanfyllin (q-v.) — for Lake Vyrnwy (6 m. distant by road). A third branch runs from Welshpool to L Ian fair Caereinion, and a fourth fi'bm Abermule to Kerry (cj-v.). The narrow-gauge railways from Machynlleth to Corris and Aberllefenny, and from Towyn to Abergynolwyn (for Talyllyn), will be found referred to under their respective heads. The N. \\'ale8 narrow gauge runs from Dinas Junc- tion (q.v.) to the Snowdon station at Rhyd-ddu (33 rn. from Beddgelert). Of all the narrow- gauge railways, however, the Ffestiniog " Toy " Railway was the first, and is still, perhaps, the most wonderful. It runs from Portmadoc to the slate quarries at Blaenau (pronounced " Bline-ey ") Ffestiniog and DufFws, and was originally intended for the slate trafiic only. The waggons descended by gravity, and were hauled back by horses. Later locomotive power (in the form of the bogie engine) was introduced, and in 1865 passenger traffic commenced. Si NORTH WALES It remains only to mention the L.N.W. branch line from Caernarvon to Llanberis and the Central Anglesey Railway from Gaerwen to Amlwch. As regards roads N. Wales is well provided. Apart from its great main arteries the country is traversed in every direction by branch roads and mountain byways. We do not propose to plan tours for those who wish to sec the country, or part of it, either afoot or by cycle. This is a matter that anyone can arrange for himself with a little knowledge of the roads and with a good map before him. We cannot do better, therefore, than give a few notes about the main roads, beginning with the great western road from Shrewsbury to Holy- head, already referred to, which runs via W'hit- tington (where there is an old castle), Gobowen, and Chirk to Llangollen, and thence by way of Corwen, Cerrig-y-Drudion, Bettws-y-coed, Capel Curig, and B. thesda to Bangor. George Burrow walked from Llangollen to Bangor in a day, and his account of the journey forms one of the most interesting bits in his book on Wales. From Bettws-y-coed the road follows the course of thi- Llugwy, past the Swallow Fall for some distance, and then, after skirting the S. side of the Llyn Ogwen, goes oft in a N.W. direction through the vale of \.int Ffrancon and the valley of the Ogwen. The ro.id is not, of course, all smooth going ; there are " humpy and lumpy " portions, and a good many stiff ascents and rapid de- scents ; but as a cyclist, who had just run over the road, said the other day, " the views pay for all." At right angles to this great western road are two important roads running on either side of the 5* ROADS AND RAILWAYS Conwajr, both good and both well worth going over for the views tliey present and the interesting places they pass through. Cyclists often make the run from Llandudno to Bettws-y-cocd and back in the day, going by one road and returning by the other. A ^favourite way is to make the outward journey through Deganwy to Gian Conway on the E. bank of the river, and so on via Tal-y-Cafn and Llanrwst to Bettws, which is entered by way of Waterloo Bridge. In case of need, the railway via Bettws-y-coed to Ffestiniog, to Caernarvon, etc., is always at hand to fall back upon. For the return journey, Pont-y-pair (a bridge over the LIugwy at a very beautiful part of its course) is crossed, and the road— not always of the best — pursued past Gwydir Castle to Trefriw. Dolgarrog and Porth-lwyd, with their waterfalls, are next passed, and Caerhun reached. A little beyond the last-named place the Conway must be crossed to Tal-y-Cafn for a straight run back to Llandudno, or the road may be followed by Tyn- y-groes and GyfTin to Conway ; but this part of the rup is tough and ditllcult. A still finer run, or tramp, as the case may be, is to follow one of the Conway valley roads to Bettws-y-coed, then take the road following the course of the Llcdr to Dolwyddelen, passing on the way some of the finest scenery on that stream. From Dolwyddelen the road ascends, by way of the Bwlch-y-gerddinen (1236 ft.), to Blaenau- Ffestiniog (s.), :,nd thence to Ffestiniog. The road is exceedingly arduous, and not a little dan- gerous to cyclists : in short, it requires care and pluck, and only " gritty " cyclists should attempt it ; but it is not beyond the powers of any pedestrian 53 NORTH WALES with ordinary endurance. The next flight in the journey is from I*'fc>tiniog to Caernarvon, vi.i Bedd- gelert. This is a most interesting jaunt of lo m. The ro.ul descends the l^eautiful Tale — properly the Vale of Maentwrog- to the village of that name, thence it ascends steeply to Tan-y-bwicli (».), but soon after passing Garcg it become* fairly level, albeit nothing to boast of is to quality, to Pont Abcrglaslyn. Even the most impatient of cyclists will be content to walk the mile and a half through the pass to Beddgelert. From this charmingly situated village there is a gentle rise to Rhyd-ddu (whence one of the ascents of Snowdon is made) ; then follows a sharp descent to Llyn Cwellyn (463 ft. above the sea), which the road skirts on the N. side. The station and the Ranger Hotel (famous as a s'artirg-point for Snowdon) are {vissed, and Nant Mill, with its old bridge and waterfall, reached. The pretty Gwrfai stream is then followed to Bettws Garmon (s.) and Wacn- fawT (s.)' whence it n a short and easy run to Caernarvon. For anyone doing this round it would perhaps be best to go the other way about — that is, making first for Caernarvon and proceeding thence to Beddgelert, Ffestiniog, etc. By this means the wayfarer would have in front of him, instead of b-hind, one of the admittedly finest views ot Snow- don to be had, namely, that uhich is presented to the eye as the famous peak is discovered filling the distance l«twcen Moel Eilio (2382 ft.) and Mynydd Mawr. The finishing stretch, from Caernarvon to Llan- dudno, is a very pleasant one, atfording an almost endless succession of charming views. At first the 54 ROADS AND RAILWAYS road runs along the Mcnai shore, with kaleidoscopic sights of the Snowdonian summits to the h. At I'ort Dinorwic (s.) the str.jit is left, Vaynol Park U-ing skirted on the W. to Troborth (s.), .ind liangor is soon aftrr rejchcd on a good and easy road. A&er leaving the pleasant university town, the model village of Llandtgai, at the entrance to I'enrhyn Castir, is presently passed, and the river Ogwen crossed ; then there is a straight road to Aber, and fairly level, except here and there. Here the view is again oi>en W. and N. to the Lav.in Sands and lieaumaris Bay. There is a gentle ascent to Llanfairk-chan (s. ), after which Pen- maenmawr (s.), the great bulk of whose mountain (1550 ft.) has been looming up in ttont for some time, is gained by a long rise. From Penmaen- i(^awr t« Conway tlicre arc two roads, one follow- ing tiie line of the coast, which is the easier, and the other by way of Dwygyfylchi (pronounced '• Doo-e-guv-ulkhi ") and the beautiful Sychnant Pass. By this route there are some stiff ascents and, for the cyclist, caution-requiring descents ; but, as niir friend remnrkcd, "the views pay for" them. From hence Conway is soon won, and the re- mainder of the spin or jaunt to Llandudno, via the Conwa, Suspension Bridge, is a mere bagatelle. Bangor is a good ])oint from which to make ex- cursions into and about Anglesey, which has one good high road, that, namely, to Holyhead, which runs through Gw.ilchm.u and Valley (s.). An often-made round from Bangor is that starting by the Ogwen valley and going on to Ci\>c\ Curig, then taking the road up Nant-y-gwryd to the hotel at the head of the vale, and thence by the Pass ot Llanberis (q.v.) and the valley of the Seiont to 55 NORTH WALES Caernarvon, and so back to Bangor. Or a short cut may be made from Cum-y-glo (s. ) to Port Dinorwic, and thus save some miles by avoiding the run or walk, via Caernarvon to Dinorwic. The round may be lengthened by continuing the jaunt from the hotel at Pen-y-gwryd through the charming Vale of Gwynant, past the lake of that name and Llyn Ddinas, and thence to Bcddgelcrt, Caernarvon, etc. We have referred to the road through the Pass of Llanberis in speaking of the jxu« itself, and the Nant Gwynant road is well- nigh, if not every bit, as good. It is, however, like most of the others of which we have been 8j>caking, a mountain road, and a mountain road signifies a •• mounting " road, which must naturally have its descent* as well. We might write a chapter on the old road from Chester to Conway and Bangor, with its numberless historical associations and points ot scenic interest, but space forbids. Suffice it to say tliat, on the whole, the road is a thoroughly good one, although, like the path of life, it presents many ups and downs and not a few zig/..igs and awkward twists and turns that are tor ever pulling one up and bidding one "mind." It follows very closely (accom- panied by the main line to Holyhead) the Dee estuary and the line of coast as far as Colwyn Bay, where it turns inland and, crossing the suspension bridge, reaches Conway town. The chief towns passed en route are Hawarden, Flint (s.), Bagillt (s. ), Prestatyn (s.), Rhyl (s. ), Abergele (s.), and Llandulas (s.). At these and many other places on the route are roads opening inland to spots of exceptional interest or beauty. From Rhyl there is an excellent road (and rail) 56 ROADS AND RAILWAYS through the Vale of Clwyd to Corwcn, and thence to Bala, etc., wliich is well worth the attention not only of any stout-limbed Viator with an eye to beauty of landscape, but to any ojien-air loving Piscator also. For the road has the company of the Elwy or the Clwyd a good part of the way, and the Clwyd" and its tributaries are notable rivers for fish. The first stage of the journey is over the marshy (lat between Rhyl and Khuddlan (s.). At this village the Clwyd is crossed and the river followed to its confluence with the Elwy, when the "road has that stream on its L. to a point a little below Trctnant, uhere it is crossed, continuing thence through undulating country to Denbigh (s.). At Llanrhaiadr (s. ), interesting for its old church with .Icsse window, rising ground is encountered, a^rding a fine view (E.) of Moel F^^ammau ; then the Clywedog, a tiibutary of the Clwyd, is skirted for some distance, and is finally crossed near Rhewl Station, a couple ot miles N. of Ruthin. A little S. of Ruthin both road and river (as well as the railway) run through the gorge of Eyarth, a nafrow pass in the limestone, and soon after river and road finally part company, the latter continuing S. to Gwyddelwern (s. ) and thence to Corwcn, the road throughout being among the best in the country. The journey may be continued through Corwen (a good centre both for exploring and fishing) to Bala. The Holyhead road is followed to the Druid Inn (2 A m.), where the Bala road turns off in a S.W. direction, passing Cefn Crwyni, and Bethel. At the former place there is an ancient camp or entrenchment. This is the shorter route to Bala. The more interesting and beautiful one 57 NORTH WALES follows the course of the Dec (and the railway), goir.g by way ot Llangar, Cynwyd (s. ) and Llandiillo (s, ), and having some of the higher l)eaks of the Ik-rwyn range on the L. all the way. The road is of the tyi>c popularly known as '• switchbacky." Bala is another capital centre. From here the Cambrian Railway runs to Barmouth and the Great Western to Ffestiniog. The road from Bala to Ffestiniog is a very stiiVonc and in i)arts extremely rough. Cyclists who attempt it have a good deal of walking to do, but for those whom difficulties do not daunt it is exhilarating. It need hardly be said that sturdy walkers will enjoy the stretch. The road and the railway keep company a good part of the way, and until Rhyd-y-fen is passed the river Tryweryn (q.v. ) is never far distant. To Frongoch (s. ) the way is good and easy ; then the road begins to rise, and it grows rougher and 6teej)er as it ascends. Arenig Bach and Arenig Fawr are passed on the R. and L. respectively, and the highest j>oint ( I 507 ft.) is reached a little beyond Rhyd-y-fen (s. ), when a gradual descent to Ffestiniog begins. The views from this part of the road are very grand, the Snowdonian mountains being "in the picture" to the N., and those of Merioneth to the S. For pedestrians who care to make the venture there is an additional tramp — of great interest — open to them by taking the road S. via Maentwrog (s. ) and Trawsfvnydd (s. ) to Dolgelly, and thence by way of Pont Newydd (s.), Drws-y-nant, and Llanuwchllyn (s.) back to Bala. We cannot recommend the road, or track (for it is little better in parti), from Maentwrog to Dolgelly for cyclists, 5^ , ROADS AND RAILWAYS but the sturdy walker will find much that is of interest along or within easy reach of the road, Tomcn-y-nnir, for instance, the waterfalls of Pistyll Cain and Rhaiadr Mawddach, Cymnicr (jTO- nounced " Kummcr") Abbey, etc. The remaining part of thp round, namciv, the road from Dolgclly to Bala, though rough in parts, is quite negotiable with the cycle. There is a level run to Bont Ncwydd, then a taiily easy ascent to Drws-y-nant Station through the beautiful valley of the Wnion (pronounced " Oonion " — qv. ), followed by some rough ups and downs to Llanuwchllyn. Thence via Caer Gai and Llanycil to Bala the road is as nearly as possible level, and there is an equally good road on the other (i.e. the E.) side of the lake. /'An alternative route from Ffestiniog may be taken via Maentwrog, Talsarnau (»•), and Harlech. It is, on the whole, a better road than that by way of Trawsfynydd, but still it it none of the best. The beautiful V'ale of Ffestiniog is followed to Maentwrog, then the Dwvrvd River is skirted a kgood part of the way to Talsarnau. On this part of the journey there is not much to com- plain of, but for the remainder of the stretch one cannot say much, except that the road follows the railway very closely, that the sea is near at hand and mostly in sight, and that on the E. the eye has an ever-moving panorama of mountains, hills, and vales, with glimpses here and there of beautiful lakes and babblin^ and tumultuous streams. Those who know this road well recommend the traversing of it from S. to N. rather that the reverse way ; for then, after passing Harlech, the wayfarer has all Snowdonia in front of him, and when the 59 NORTH WALES weather is favourable tlic eye cannot well have a liner feast. It makes a pleasant and interesting extension of the journey if, instead of continuing on to Ffestiniog, a mile and a half l)cyond Taisarnau, a road be taken to the L. leading to Penrhyn-deudraeth {*. ), and thence to Portmadoc and Pwllheli. The road from Portmadoc to Criccicth (i. ) is passably good, beyond so-so. The way back, either to Port- madoc or I'Tcsliniog, may be made through a variedly interesting country, by taking the road via IJanaelhaiarn and Clynnog to Caernarvon, and thence to Portmadoc by way of Bcddgeleit and Aberglaslyn. Of the latter section we have already siKjken. That from Pwllheli to Caer- narvon i« 1 oor rather than bad. The ground is often coveicd by cyclists; and as there are repairing shops to be met with here and there on the route (as on most of the road-; described), the inexperi- enced mav start without much concern. S. o\ IJanaelhaiarn there arc fine views of Trcniadoc Bay and the Merionethshire hills, including Cadri Idris. The Rivals are passed on tlie L., also Tre'r Cciri (q.v. ), then there is a long stretch along the coast through Clynnog, and so by Llan- wiiJa (s.) to Caernarvon. 'I'here arc other interesting and important roads about which we might say much, including that from Abergele, through what wc may call the Elwy country, to Llanrwst, which is in parts very picturesque ; and, we may add, the road from Dolgelly toTowyn, T/d Penmaen-pool (8.),Aber- gwynant, Arthog (s. ), and Llwyn-gwril (s.), an up-and-down track, with rough bits, though not on the whole bad. But perhaps wc have said 60 HISTORY enough to indicate the general character of the roads of N. Wales, and what pedestrians and cyclists alike have to expect in footing and pedalling them. Little or nothing has been said of the more easterly roads, those, for instance, traversing the country between Oswestry and Lnkc \'yrnwy, and between tiMt place and Montgomery and Newtown. But the tourist wishing to plan out a route cannot do better than get sections of the Ordnance Survey Map (is. the section), and, with it and the charts and notes on places herein given, he will be able to g;ither all the information he requires. He may always expect roughish and lumpy roads when he gets into hilly districts, and especially when the populous places are few and far between. To the pedestrian this does not so much matter, but it matters a good deal to the cyclist, especially if he happen ro be in a region remote from railways. \'1I. History »Our notes upon the history of N. Wales must be brief, sufficient onlv to make references in regard to places intelligible, and possibly to make readers go to other sources for fuller knowledge on a most interesting subject. It is the more interesting to English people because we get in Wales a more concentrated amalgam, as it were, of the racial influences that went to the making of England as a whole. Tlie bed-rock race, if we may so put it, of these islands was a small, swarthy people, to whom the name Iberian has been giren. They used stone implements, and their religion was probably 6j NORTH WALES the cult of ancestors, to wliom they raised rude stone nionumenta — the cromlechs, kistvaens, and carnedds, of which we shall have to make so much mention in the following pages. History ii absolutely silent as to when these short, dark-haired people arrived in England, but they had become thoroughly settled and acclimatised when another race, the Celts, appeared uj)on the eastern coasts and contended with them for the possession of the domains they had made their own. Wc know little or nothing of the contest, save that in the end the invaders prevailed, chietly, as would appear, from their knowledge of the use of iron, of which they made their tools and implements of war. They were a fair-haired people, and spoke a dialect of the great Aryan sj>eech, which gradually super- seded the language of the Iberians, who were non- Aryan. The,>e Celts were divided into two branches, the Goidels and the lirythons, each sjieaking a different dialect, albeit with resemblances and atiinities that made it possible for a man speaking in one tongue to understand a person making use ot the other. The Goidels, or Gaels, came first, and appear to have overspread the whole of Wales, and }>ossihly a part of Ireland, before the Brythons, or Britons, made their apjjearance and bt-gan to oust them as they had done the Iberians. This we know from the evidence of place-names, which show us where the Goidel influence prevailed and where the Brython. I'or it must be borne in mind that in these successive conquests there was never a clean sweep made of the conquered people, a large substratum always remaining to amal- gamate with the new people. Thus it is that to 63 HISTORY this day traces remain of the dark-haired Il>eric race as well as of the fair-haired Celt — traces of other races too, though to a less extent. 'The evidences of language in place-names testify that the Brythons, or Britons, subdued both N. and S. Wales, while the Gaels prevailed N. of the Tweed and in Ireland. When the Romans finally aj^peared upon the scene this conquest by the Brythonic Celts had long been complete, at least over the greater part of Wales. In N. Wales the ruling tribe was the Ordovices (the Ardudwy), a brave and warlike people ; further S., in the region between the Severn and tlie Wye, were the Siliircs, a non-Celtic race, while Anglesey, or Mun, as it was then called, was j)eoplod by a remnant of the Iberic stock. It look the Romans many years to overcome the resistance of the drdovides ; but in the year ;{> .lulius Agricola ovt-rtlncw them in a great battle among the moun- tains, and so nearly annihilated their fighting men that practically all resistance ceased. This having been done, Agricola passed over the Menai Strait into Mona to complete the subjection which Stetonius P.-iulinus eighteen years before h.id only partly accomplished, though he had succeeded in putting to the sword the Druid priests and their followers, who had made the island their head- quarters and stronghold. The passage of the Roman troops under both generals took place near Moel-y-don, the very threshold, as it were, of the Druid fastnesses, as may be seen to this day from traces of their works and habitations yet remaining. During the subsequent centuries of the Roman occupation the Cymry, as the people of Wales now began to call themselves, learned something of 63 NORTTI WALES Latin cirilitation, breams acqiuintrd with Irttcra, and io courts oJ time wrrc convcrtrtl to Christianity, or at Iratt |virtially to. Whrn thr (loipri w.ii firtt brought to UriLain and by whom wr en the Roman power \-^-- ' ' - '. fiiully, was withdrau ■.■''. into a state of anarchy from which there was no single haod strong enough to a.i»e it. The trouble aroe uith his eight sons aiKi a great host w.: ..^A-ers from Cumbria, uJ'.cre another baiy of the Brythonic stock hid settled, and baring driven the Gaels out of Gwy- nrxld (corrr ' " ' "y with the counties of Caernarvon, .1 nt, ind Merioneth) aod 6* msroRv Anglesey, and then lulxiutii ihotc in S. Wuici ai well, he remais'.ed at King of Gwyordd and (jwledij', or o\erlurd of the entire couotry, in- dudinj; Cunibrii. The stirv of Cunedda it toniewhat legendary, and we kgow nothing very precisely about either him, his s( ;:. '.ilrl.oj,-^!! one 14 laid to have given hit name to Mr.ior- ', '^ );her his to C''- -. -1 othen to other »), or thrir dc^ .r over a hundred year». But then (about the middle of the ^>lh cent.) a great king aro«c in N. Waici w'^o wai a direct descendant of Cunedd.i. His name wji M.itlgwn, and he ua§ King of C^\iNnrdd and overlord like Cunedda. One of hit detcend- ' the throne and had his chiel H - .. ...:;aw, in Anglctey, was Cudhm, and in the neighbouring church of Llangadwaladr It an epiijjih to him (probably of the 7ih cmt.), in Nihil h he it ' ' -! a» "the wi«e« and meet rcnounevi of all i. It wa< .'uring the reign of thit prince that the Iu'tIc o^ Chetter tot>k place between the Dritont of 0» \ r.* !. V - ! by iljcir tcllow Cymry of I'oANs in: (.^ 1^ with Shropjhire and the coun- tiet of Montgomery and Radnor), under their prince Brochnuel, and the Noahumbriant under fcilhel- frith. The Hiitons were d * • '. and tl.' - •« of Bangor Itcoed, 24OO in : , u -re \* .,:i annihilated and their moaasterx destroyed, becaute a I ' ' V of them accomjianicd the fi;;[.fer8 to the b.. ... i and prayed tor their succett. (3r' • :t 50 surrived, and most of them, it is tuppost i their way to St Mary't Abbey, Bardsey. Politi- ^reai ba-.t!.- (^)t 3) retulred in cutting ori ...M, as thev no\i' began to be called, from t 6; NORTH WALES their brethren of Cumbria and Strathclyde. Ches- ter (Deva) was Liken but not held by Mthelfrith, and ao it continued in the hands of the Kings of Gwynedd, being a strong border fortress. The strugglf against the Saxons was continued by Cadwaladr, who died during a visitation of the plague, called the Yellow Death (^>^H-'^^3)» ^^^ was the last British prince to bear the title of King of all Britain. The leadt-rship of the North WeUh then fell on Rhotiri Maclwynawg. The fight, however, still went against the Cymry. During Rhotlri's reign the South Welsh attacked Offa, King of Mercia (7^>3), and ga\e the Saxons much tiouhle. Offa retaliated by colonising the country along the Severn and the Wyp, and causing the great rampart and dyke known by his name to be mafe from the Dec to the Wye. Up to this time Shrewsbury, or Pengwern, as it was called, had been the capital of Powys, hut was now so no more, ihe princes of that kingdom henceforth mak- ing Mathrafal (in Montgomeryshire) it* capital. The Welsh greatly rescntetl the construction of this dvke, and on St Stephen's Day they gathered after dark and broke down the woll and filled up the ditch. This, of course, brought Offa down on them again, and after some skirmishing led to the fierce liattle of Rhuddlan Marsh (795), when the Welsh not only suffered a terrible defeat, but saw all those who were taken slain in cold blood. Soon after this Offa died (79^)1 and the Saxons, having their hands full with the inroads of the Danes, left the Welsh alone. The ^Velsh, however, showed themselves then, as for long years afterwards, incapable of any sort of unity for the common weal. Instead of favouring a strong 66 HISTORY central power, they split up the land into a number of petty sovereignties, and then wasted their strength by fighting one against another. ^Vc cannot s.iy exactly with Milton that the record of" their striv- ings arc of no more interest than the contests of kites and crov/s ; yet the record is a pinful, and for the most part a very pitiful one. This state of things obtained when, in 8j8, Egbert invaded N. Wales, and comj>elled the Welsh to submit and acknowledge his overlordship. About the same time the Mercians ravaged S. Wales and, following up their success, got possession of l*owys. A period of peace followed, but in 844 a great battle was fought at Cyveiliog (Montgonnryshire), when Mervyn, the King of Gwynedd, lost his life, and the rulership of that kingdom fell into the liflnds of a strong man, Rhodri Mawr, or Roderic the Great. Rhodri was the contemporary of Alfred of lingland, and like him " he stemmed the torrent of Danish invasion and l>eat the sea-rovers in their own element." He was sovereign over the whole of Wales, ha\ing received the government of Qwynedd and Powys from his father, while he succeeded to the crown of S. Wales through his wife. Thus, bv his strength and wisdom, he was enabled to consolidate and introduce improvements ; but on his death (877) matters went bick much into their old condition, his son, Anarawd, becoming King of Gwynedd and overlord of the country generally, while to Mervyn was assigned the prin- cipality of Powvs, and to Cadell, a third son, Dcheubarth (which embraced S. Wales with, probably, the exception of Gwent). Fighting and disunity were the result, and they continued until anotlier strong and good man came to the helm. 67 NORTH WALES Thit was Howil Dha, who was not merely King of Gwvnctld, but, like Rhodri, overlord of all Wales. Wc do not know precisely when he came to the throne ; but »f know thnt hit ri ign Iwgan (over vS. Walet) in the time of tdward the l£lder of England (901-925), and that it continued into that of b'dred (94^>). It; •• - ■ * 'hat he dietl in 950. I lowel the Gooil w ily termi with the Kingi of Linglaod contemporary to him, und rccogniied their suzerainty, although, it is said, only in a nominal way. lii» chiet contribution to the welt.ire of his ix-ople, however, was in that he had the ancient laws of Wjks writ'en down, amended, and cotlitxd. On the death of Howel, the country was again .lirided into Nonh and South, and the old state ot things followed. Towards tlic close of the century the Danes invaded Anglesey, and Idwil |>erished in the conflict (99I). Aj;ain there was a period of confusion, and then Llewelyn .p-Scisyllt, after some fighting, brought peace and well-being. He died m 1021 .ind was succeeded hy his son Griflirli, who, during hi* -e gn of 24 years (1039-10^3), had much heavy fighting to do. In the first year of his reign he fought the Mercians at Rhyd-y- Groes on the Severn and defeated them, and in 1 04 1 he cru-hed the opponents of Welsh unity at Penculer. He died in IC63 — slain by traitors — alter liaving been defeated in the SnowJon region by Harold, the last of the Saxon kings. After the Norm.in Conquest the Welsh found they had a very dilfcrent foe to deal with — in short, with a ioc practi>ed in scien;ihc warfare It may be said that with the Normans there was no going back. What 'hey gained they held, and held the 68 HISTORY tighter because ihey nailed down their acquisitiono, as it were, with a castle. William the Conqueror seized Chester and raised a castle there. Then he put Huj^h Lupus in command with the title oi eail, anil tliis cruel and rapacious Norman soon extended \^\s dominions by conqu«*ring the district now known as Flintshire. This was the method unitornily pursued by William I. and his successor^. A strong position was secured, a castle was built thereon, and a luron put in possession of it and the land aiound. Thus his stroni;h(jld and his domain served .is a /k/m/ iPiippui from which to extend his dominion and that of the kin^. From Ciiester Castle the Norman eails, as we hare teen, acquired J'^lintshire ar.d held it by means of other castles. Amon^ these were Holt, HawarJen, F'wioe, l*'1int, and Rhuddlan. In the kingdom of Powys the same process went on. The castle of Mont- gomery, now in ruins, affords a striking illustration. The town and castle were founded by li.ddwin, who was William l.'s warden of the M.irches. The town was cnlied by the Welsh Faldwin, after hit name. It afterwards fell into the hands of the Welsh, and was in \o<.ji re-captured by Roger de Montgoniery, Larl of Shrewsbury, who strengthened the tonress. Two years later the W^clsh again took it and put the garrison to the sword. Then William H. api>eared up n the scene with an army, and replaced the Earl of Shrewsbury. Subsequently the cabt c appears to have f:»llcn into a ruinous state, for in the year 1221 Henry HI. erected a new one and granted it to his justiciary, Hubert de Burgh. Then, ten years later, it fell into the hands of Llewelyn the Great and was burnt. Such were some of the fluctuations of fortune »he place under- 6y NORTH WALLS went, until, in •^'44« •' ^^*> finally destroyed by the Parliamentary forces. 'I'hii is an instance of the kind ut warfare that went on l>etwten the Ivnglish, as we must now call tliem, and tiic Welsh, until, in 1282, Ldward L brought the long, stormy scene to a close. During these years several princes woithily led the WfUh of N. Wales, which was now "reduced to Anglesey, the counties of Miirionydd, and Caernarvon, with parts ot Denbigh and Cardigan." The two who were the strongest and in whom the most interest centres were i^lewilyn-ap-lorwerth, or the Great, and his nephew Llewelyn ap-GryfTydd, under whom the fmal conquest of Wales took place. The first rose into |)ower in 1194 and reigned until 124O. It was a long and important reign, but need not be described here, because, under him, Welsh doings Ixcome a part of Lnglish history, a remark that applies to his great namesake, LIcwclyn-ap-Gryrfydd, who held the reins of power from 1246 to 1282, when he lost his life, as is generally held, by treachery. David, his brother, continued the struggle ; but he and his family were betrayed, and he was put to death in a most cruel and vindictive manner. Thus ended the long struggle of the Welsh for Independence. V'lll. FAMOt.'S MfcN The history of a country is imperfect that does not give an account of the famous men — heroes, poets, divines, and workers — who did their little in the cause of human well-being. It would be impossible, however, in the space at our disposal 70 FAMOUS MEN to do more than touch upon the fringe oi a vast subject, the groat and noteworthy men and women of N. Wales being as numberless as the crags on its mountain sides or the rills that tumble down them into its vales. To tell about its heroes wc should have to refer to GrilTiil.-ap-Conan and GritFuh-ap-Rces, both of the line of Cunedda, whose lives were siK-nt fighting against the Normans ; also of Owen Gwynedd and the Lord Recs, sons of the foreguing, whose activities filled a l.irge section of the 1 2th cent. ; and, still greater, of Owen Glcndowcr (d. 1415), whose story is one of such romantic and j)athctic interest and comes up again and again in our pa>;cs. Next to the heroes in the country's annals come her poets. In Wales these have been more |>art and parcel of the national and common everyday flic than has ever been the case in Ln^land. They have kept alive the national spirit ; they have vivified and sustained the national ideal ; and it is they who, in more senses than one, have been the country's educators and inspirers. To the majority of English ears the names of these j>oet« are un- l*nown, or at least all but one or two. Some may have heard of Taliessin ; but who outside Wales knows anythinj^ of Llywarch Hen (prince as well as poet), of Dafydd-ap-Gwilym, or of Goronwy Owen, lolo Goch, Lewis Morris (born at Trev-y- Beirdd, Anglesey), E.lmund Prys (who assisted Dr Morgan in his translation of the Bible), Huw Morus (Hugh Morris), Thomas Edwards ("Turn o'r Nant), etc.? Yet in their own country, and in their own tongue, they are living voices. To the number, of course, could be added many more, some of them — singers of sacred song — known 7» NORTIi WALES pfrli.ipi only to tliusc of tl-.cir own sect or Church, but none tlic Ics« potent for inspiration in their way- Of those whom wc claw under the old name of ''divine" N. W'dts numbers a host. One of the most notable, l)r Wni. Morpan, the translator of the Bible into Welsh (158^), has already been mentioned. He wai Bishop of St Asaph. Two other prelates of the ume see, e(]ually noted for their piety, were l)r Isaac Barro.v and Bisl)op liereridj;e. 'I'hen, among others, may be named l)r South, rector of Llanrhaiadr-yn-mochnnnt ; Dr Jeffcry Olyn, founder of the Bangor Grammar School; i)r Lloyd, Dean of St Ataph ; Gabriel Gooilman, Dean of Westminster, who was a native of Ruthin and another of Dr Morgan's helpers in the work of translating the Bible. Another famous Welsh ecclesiastic was .lohn Williams (lK)rn at Aberconway, 15^2), who became Lord Keeper of the Great Seal under James L, and Archbishop of York under Charles L He was the last Church- man to hold a high otiice of sLtte. His monument, showing him in his Tetimenti in the attitude of prayer, is to be seen in the church of Llandegai. Another Welshman who rose to the episcopal bench w.is .lolm Thoma«, the son of a brewer's porter of Dolgelly, who became, first, Bi«hop of Lincoln and then Bishop of Sjlisbury (1761). If the Lpiscopal Church shows a host of shining lights. Dissent c.in produce as many or more. No body of men has had such an influence on Welsh character and Welsh thought as the leaders of the Methodist, the Baptist, and the Congregational;st Churches. They may almost be said to have made the Wales of to-day. The type is seen in the Rev. Thomas Charles of Bala ("Charles of Bala"), 7» FAMOUS MliN wlio, struck by Grifliii) Junes of Llanddowron's idea of circulating schools, followed it up by estab- lishing a system of Sunday-schools that was quickly Liken ii[) by the whole nation. To this great work lie added that of preparing two editions of tlie ^VcKh Bible, hcsiiles a nionumcntil scriptural dictionary' in the vernacular tonj;ue. To give an account of the wi iters who have been associated with N. Wales by birth or residence would take up a volume. They include George Herlxri (said by Izaak Walton to have Inren birn * in Montgomery Castle), Thomas i'ennant (author of the famous "Tours"), Ullis Wynne of Glasynys (q.T.), Philip Yorke (author of "The Royal Tribes of Walts"), Samuel Warren (autfior of "Ten Thousand a Year"), Frances Power Cobbc ^ho presented her valuabi? library to Barmouth), the Rev. Henry Rowlands (author of " Mona Anticiia Restorata," etc.), Sir Theodore Martin, Mrs Hemans, Sir H. M. Stanley, William Owen Pughc (the lexicographer and antiquary), Aneurin Owen (son of the last named), A. N. I'ahiier, etc., etc. We might speak of many others, famous in various walks of life — of Sir Hugh Mvddelton, of New River fame, for instance ; of W. H. Madocks, the friend of Shelley and founder of Portmadoc ; of Mrs Jordan, ihe actress (said to have been born at Nantglyn, near Denbigh) ; of Sir Pryce Jones, of Newtown ; and, to name one much greater who was born and died at that place — the famous Robert Owen. And then there are the Vaughans, the Mos'.yns, the Wynnes, the Ellises, the Pughs, the Trevors, and the Tudors (who gave a name and a strain to our Royal Family) — all families of note 73 NORTH WAILS that harr in varioui ways giNcn light and guidance to the drstinics of the country. IX. AnTI'JI'ITUS N. Walf» artufil* a Rfcj' deal th.U ii of intcnst to the antiquary. The whole country it thickly studded U'i;h renuin* and monuments of one kind or another, t iking the mind back, »ome of them, to prehistoric time*; others, u we may say, within the reach of our early national annals, to which they serve as illustrative survivals. Of this latter class are the castles with which N. Wales is excep- tionally well provided. Four o* •'— — (of which an account is given in the A ^ ..al List of Places) are held to have been planned by the same architect, H«*nry de FIrcton, in the time of Fdward I. Tht-y are Caernarvon, Conway, Harlech, and B.aumaris. These, however, are of modt-rn date compared with some others, such at Dolbidarn, DoIw\ddelan, Dinas Uran, etc. Others date Kick to the time of William Con- qoettor and his sons. Amoo;; these may be named Fwloe, Ca^tcil Lleinio;;, Rhuddlan, postibly Powvi, etc. Chirk, Cricciith, Denbigh, Dvserth, Flint, Hawarden, Montgomery, and Kuthin .ire of later date. Many of these fortresses were built on the site of former fortified camps or hill forts, stronghold •* of the native peoples. A large number of them s;ill remain, and may be traced with considerable exacti- tude. Among these the best j)re$er%ed are Cacr Gybi Holyhead) ; Bwrdd Arthur (Arthur's Round 'ablej.thc largest camp in Anglesey; Mocl-y-Gacr, near bodfari, Flintshire : Mot! Arthur, Pen-y- 74 \ ANTIQUITIES cloddiau, FcK-l Fcnnli, and those on other summiu of the Clwydian Hills, with Pcn-y-gacr, near Cerrig- y-drudion, and Pcn-y-Garddon, near Ruabon, all in Dinbighshiro. In Caernarvonshire arc ancient camps at Dinas Dinorwic, Dinas Emrys, Dinas Dinllf, Gaer Carrcgyfran, near Cwm-y-glo, Castell Caer Scion, on a spur of Penmaenluch, near Conway, Forth Dinllaen, near Nevin, and Caer liodu m, with its famous Cylliau (sec Kevin). Others among the canips named show traces of these circular tytii.iu or huts, but none present so striking an example of them as Trc'r Ceiii, on Yr Va\\. All these, and others in Montgomeryshire and Merioneth — as, for instance, Cefn Carnedd, Caer Digoll, Gaer Fawr, Craig-y-Ddinas — arc rrti-rrcd to in our alphalietical list. Of trqual interest to these prehistoric sitet arc the vestiges that remain of Roman stations, and the roads connecting them one with another. It i» not possible to identify all ; but toine wc know with certainty. Of these the most imporunt is un- doubtedly Se^^cntium (q.v. ), near Caernarvon. Conovium (Cacrluin); Afj:;/ona (Mach\nlleth or Pennal) ; Heriri Mom ( Tomen-y-nuir) were likewise stations of importance, from wiiich roads led to different points of the compass. It is thought also that Bangor Iscoed may be the site of the station named Bonium or Bovium, and Math- rafal, near Welshpool, the site of Mediolunum. Some, too, regard Bodfari, at the confluence of the Clwyd and the Chwiler (Denbighshire), a» the ancient Far^. Roman antiquities have been found in the neighbourhood, and it is known to lie on the Roman load from Dn^a (Ches'.er) to Ccnoviwr. 75 NOR ill WAl.ES Cjcrwyt, 2 or 3 m. N.E. of Uodfnri, ii likcwite hfid to fiavc Ixrn an important station, the plan of it, the »trcct3 at right angles to each other, being on the Roman nioJcl. Caettws and Caergai are alto referred to a* Roman centre* in the lift of place*. At l>oth trace* of rn ' ' nc been found, more eipecially, however, at C ... , whence roaJs diverged to a number of diffennt ktations. Kcterence ha* been made under Heriri Mon« and Dolwydtieian to ti c oIJ road or cau*eway known a* Sjrn Men, which cm be traced in part* from the firtt-oamed ttttion to Conaviym, a* also S. a* far as DolmelynlKn, wiiile indication* of a con- tinuation are discernible orer Cader Idris to Maglomt (i.e. Machynlleth or Pennal). Frt»ni Heiiri Mon* there wa* likewise a road via Ueildgelc-rt to .Sej;oniium, whilst a continuation of the road from Che*ter to Cacrhun [C— -•- ) ii traceable to Aber over the Bwlch-y-.i ,, (q.v.). Of equal interest with these Roman roada aod nation* are the cromlechs (or ■ ' ' ■•/, to give the Welsh plural), and allied pK...u..v. remains, whereof Bmgley furnishes a list of thirty in Anglesey alone. Of these several no longer exist, but enough remain to make the island a place of extreme mterest to the antiquary. One district alone, that i* the S.E. corner, Ixiween the river Briant and Mcnai Strait, e«j>ecially in the neigh- bourhood of IJanedwen and I.l3nid.in, it full of such remain*. Formerly many diverse opinions were held re$j)ecting the rsrious monuments with which we are now concerned. The nio»t common of these (at least in N. Wales), the crondech, consist* of three upright stones with a flat one on top. This wns at one time held to be an aocient 76 ANTIQUITIES .ilt.ir, on which sacrifices, sometimes even human sicrificcs, wore offered by the Druids, to whonj they were suppose^i to belong. These views are now thou^jht to have l>een erroneous, the cromlech l>eing held to be nothing more than a burial-place, a tomb. Artificial mounds, or barrows, have been uncovcreu by antiquaries, and such stone monu- ments disclosed leen found in a recumbent jwsition, others in a sitting posture. At the time of these last inter- ments it was the custom to sleep in this position, and so the dead were buried thus. Such at least IS the inference ot antiquaries. These sepulcliral monuments .ire of different size and ^'laj*, some long and others round, some pingle, others double. The long barrows are found !i) contain the skeletons of a small race of m-n uith comparatively long heads. The round barrows, on the other hand, contain the remains of men of larger size having round he.ids. Occasionally, however, the two tvpts ha\e been found in the Sjjme crondech. Carctul examination has tended to the inference that the long barrows are the more anci nt, and belong to what is known as the Stone Age, while the round barrows, less remote in date, and con!. lining bron/e implements, are held to l>elong to the Bronze Age. We have referred in the historical section to the Iberians, the aboriginal inhabitants of Wales, and their small stature. These, it is held, are the neolithic peoples who buried in the long barrows ; while the Celts, who largely displaces them, made the rouf^d barrows for their last rcstino- places. The two p^-oples did to some extent, as 77 NORTH WALES we have seen, lire together after the Celtic con- quest, and so iKCame mixed in their tombs. Although their barrows and cromlcclis are not specitically Druidic monuments, as was so long tiiought, they are often associated in jitu with the remains of that worship, as, for instance, in stone circles, foundations held to be Druidic, etc. This is prticularly the ctse in the S.Ii. corner of Anglesey, above referred to, where are to be seen two excrptionally gootl specimens of cromlechs, a fine cistvaen (pronounceii 'kistvaen'), and vi-stiges of ancient buildings. Tracct of the Roman occu- IMtion also are visible, it having been here (at 'orthamel, (].v.) that Suetonius etfccted a landing (a.d. fio) — and wasfollowcdbyAgricola some years later — intent on extirpating the Druids, whose head- (juarters were in the woody fastnesses hereabout. The two cromlechs are in Pl.is Ncwydd Park, a little to the R. of the stables. The top or table-stone of the larger it about 12^ ft. long by just upon I I ft. broad, and rests uj>on other stones, 5 or o ft. in bright. The smaller cromlech, which it near the other, has a table-stone measuring 7 ft. by 5, and rests ujwn four uprights. About \ m. from the cromlechs is the cistvaen above referred to. It is close to a path leading to Llan- rdwen Church, behind a green knoll, and consists of a large capstone, 7 ft. square, supported by rough slabs at the sides and back. There is a smaller capstone behind the larger, while another stone partially fills the entrance. This cistvaen is one of the most noteworthy in N. Wales. Of the other cromlechs in Anglesey the most interesting are those of Henblas (3 m. N.E. of Bodorgan Station), which is the largest, though in 78 < ANTIQUITIES a ruinous condition ; Ty Newydd (2 m. N.W. of Ty Croes) ; Bryn-cdii-ddu (•« Vr Ogof," in the Ordnance map), a fine specimen ; and Bodowyer (ill Bodedcrn parish), where arc also many other interesting remains. The lafger proportion of these cromlechs are to he fouml in elevaed positions near the coast. Cetn Amlwch (in I.leyn) — notable for its j)eaked table-stone — is one so situated. The Clynnog cromlech — leinarkabic for its cup-marlcs — is liefween the village and the sea, and there are others similarly situated on the same coast and on that of Merioneth. The Dytfrvn (q.v.) cromleciis in the latter county are amongst the most interesting In N. Wales, and, being close to tlie village, are easily reachcxl .md examined. Other noteworthy «|)ecimens of these curious relics of antiquity are those near Capcl Garmon, Criccieth, Glan Conwav (with a verv large capstone), Mo'fte (on LIugwy farm), Anglesey, and Rowen (N.W. of Caerhi'in). Caernarvonshire. The cistv.ien at Plas Newvdd is held to have bpen a tomb of more than common importance, and others of the kind have been discovered, notably at Bronwen on the bank of the Alaw in Anglesey, where a cistvaen — a rude chest formed of slabs — was found in a tumulus. This is one form of the beJJy or gr.Tve, somtimes m.Trked by upright stones, sometimes by a heap of stones or " c.irncdd." Instances of these rirc the Beddau Guyr Ardudwy (graves of the Men of Ardudwy), near Ffestiniog, Bedd Porius, near Trawsfvnydd, and the Bedd HniKn at Clocaenog (cj.v.). When a tumulus was raised it was doubtless a monument to some considerable personage, whose 79 NORTH WALES remains it co''cred, or else to the slain in a battle. But there are instances of tomens, or tumuli, that have been raised for other purposes, sometimes j>o8sibly as lookouts (as in the case of that wliich gives its name to Tomen-y-miir), or for defensive purposes. Newmarket Cop, in Flintshire, is an mstance of liie sepulchral tumulus and is said to be the largest but one in the kingdom ; and Capel Towyn, near Holyhead, is another. Of those wliich have beon used for other, and periiajis various, purposes examples may be tound in Tomen-y-Bala (for which see Bala), Tomen-y- Rhodwy, near Llandegia, and Tomen-Ddreiniog, near Towyn. Both tumuli and cromlechs are, as already said, sometimes associated with ancient stone circles, ot which only a few, however, are now to be found in N. Wales. One of the most remarkable is that known at Y Meini Hirion, about i^ m. from Penmaenmawr (q.v.). One of the upright stones, fion) its supposed resemblance to the human figure, is popularly styled "the D.ity Stone," while ar.othvr having a cup-like cavity on the top is named " The Stone of Sacrifice." Other circles are to be seen at Penl^edw (in the Hall grounds), near Nanncrch, in the Ll.iwllech range, near Llyn Irddyn, etc. When we come to the sculptured and inscribed stones — of which there are many specimens in N. Wales — we touch matters of a wider and deeper interest. Of these memorials Westwood, in his " Lapidarium Wallia?," says thty "are in fact the only unini])eachable proofs which exist in Wales of the extent to which religion, literature, and science were there cultivated from the 3rd to the 12th 80 ANTigUITIES century." One of tlie most interesting of these stones is that of St Cadfan at Towyn (q.v.). Another notable stone of the kind is Lihseg's Pillar, near Valle Crucis Abbey (q.v.), which has been the subject of much spt-culation. Among others are the Catamnus stone in Liangadwalader churchyard ; the Lavcrnui stone at Ll.infaglan ; the Vinnemagli stone at Gwythcrin, where was the abbey ot which St Winifrid was the head ; tlie Culidorus stone at Llangefni (Anglesey) ; and the , stones (of 6th cent.) at Penprys, near Llanor, 2 m. N.W. of Pwllheli ; the Romano-British stone at Llangian, near Abersoch ; that in the churchyard of Llanerfyl, Montgomeryshire; and those at Llanrug, 3 m. E. of Caernarvon, and at Llanfihangel-y-'l'racthau, near Harlech. Besides *1u'se there are other stones, without inscri])tion, intended, no doubt, in many cases, as memorials of something or otiier, while in other instances they may sim])ly stand as boundary marks. Among the former must be included the Llech Idris stone, near Trawsfynydd, and the pillar stOiies near Ulanbedr, in Merioneth. With these may be mentioned the stone crosses, which, though rare, are of exceptional interest. The most notable is that (of the 12th cent.) standing in a field near Whitford (qv. ), and known as the Maen Achwynfan (or Maen-y- chwnfan, as some write it), a column i i ft. 3 in. high, supporting a wheel-cro?s, and having all its four sides richly carved. Anglesey counts three, one at Llanllhangel Tre'r Beirdd ; another (muti- lated) at Llanfair-mathafarn-eithaf ; and a third, a very singular one, with compartments representing the mockery of the Saviour by the Roman soldiery, F 81 NORTH WALES at Pcnnion. These and the lotty cross in New- market churchyaril, the carved one in Dyscrth churchyard, and tlat in Derwen churchyard, 13 ft. high, a most perfect specimen, almoat exhaust the list. As regards ecclesiastical .mtiquities, N. Walei presents a fine held for lovers of such things. Although its two cathedrals .ire not of the first rank, and present little of the rare beauty manifest in such poems in stone as York and Salisbury Cathetiralt, yet both are extremely interesting, especially St Asaph's, with it« fine ceotral tower, grand though simple in design. Of ancient abl>eyi N. Wales can only Ixjast four, but one of the number, Valle Crucis, is as beautiful a« anything of the kind in the country, it« £. li. windows being particularly worthy oJ note. Basingwerk sjrtcrs frum its proximity to the dirt and "trade" of Holywell ; while LlandJwyii, exposed to the wild blasts and almost wilder waves of the Atlantic, can only show a few b.ire walls of its former self. Cymmer is siill interesting, though it presents but little of the exceptional beauty of Valle Crucis, save as regards its situitioo. With respect to the churches, the following is a list of those that present speciil features of interest : — Aberdaron : CircuLr-headed doorway and Perp. E. window (restored). Aberriraw : i 2th-cent. doorway and i4th-cent. font. Beaumaris: (13th cent.). Monuments ; carved wood -work. Beddgelert : Old and rude, part of early priory. Cerrig-ceinwen : Circular i2th-cent. font; tombstone over door. 82 i *..■ M, ANTIC^UITIES Cilcain : Carved ojk roof. Conway : Rood-loft and screen ; nionumrnts. Clynnog : Good specimen ot late Perp. ; rout, rood-loft. I'Jleneclityd : Remarkable wooden font. Gresford^^ : Monuments, grotesque sculpture, tower, and it.iincd glass (I'eip. ). Guil. field : (Restore.!), many interesting features. HannKT: (Tudor), monuments. Holyhead: Chiefly i 5th and i6th cent. Kerry : Monuments. Llanabcr: ll.Iv. ( 1 jtli cent.) ; many interesting features, including be.iutif'ul S. doorway. Iwlaiiirmon : Moiujinents ; chandelier, with ligurc ot Virgin. ,4 Janallgo : Very early, said to be of yth cent. I.lanasa: Stained-glass window. IJandegai : Monuments. Llanddwywe: Monuments. I Janddyfnan : Sculpture of the Crucifixion. IJanegryn : Norm, font ; rood-loft. |^lanf'air-y-cwm;iiwd : I2th-ccnt. font, gro- tesquely carved. Llanfwrog : Arcades. Llangadwal.idr : Beautiful stamed glass window. Llangollen : Mostly njodern, with Perp. roof. Llangwyfan: Curious E. Perp. Llanidloes: Roof, with carved figures. Llaniestyn: 12th Cent, font, and slab of 14th, supposed to represent St Icatyn (1{. Perp.). Llanrhaiadr (Vale of Clwyd) : Perp. E. win- dow (Jesse) ; monuments. Llanvihangel Tyn Sylwy : Movable pulpit. Llanvihangel-y-Penrant : Norm. font. «3 NORTH WALES Llanrwst : Rood-screen, Gwydir chapel, monu- ments. Llanawchllyn : Monument (1370). I^Ianwenllwyfo : Brass (elaborate) of 17th cent. Meifod : Norm, arcades ; sculptured stone. Mold : Perp. Newborough : 1 2th-cent. font and E. window. Newtown : Modern, with old wooden screen and font ; monuments. Northop : ( Pcrp. ). Tower, monumentB, stained glass. Pcnmon : Norman (restored). Penmynydd : Efligies of Tudor family. Pennant-Melangell : Carved wood-work. Ruabon : Monuments. Ruthin: (Perp.). Oak roof, carvings, monu- ments. Towyn : E. Norm. Welshpool : Monuments. Whitchurch: (Late Perp.), monuments. Wrexh.im : Tower, monument,-?, mural paintings, apsidal chancel. (Perp.). Yspytty Ivan : Monuments. As regards most of these places fuller particulars will be found under their respective heads in the list of places. 84 DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN NORTH WALES, ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED. Note. — The position of places may, as a rule, be ascertained by reference to tlie guide maps. When a place has no railway station the distance to the nearest station is invariably given. The following abbreviations are employed in describing the architectural styles of churches: — Norm. ^Norman, the style introduced from France at the Norman Conquest, which prevailed until towards / the end of the i ith cent. E.E. = Early English, or the general stylo of the 13th cent. Dec. ^Decorated, or the style of the 14th cent., though its inception was a little earlier. Perp. = Perpendicular, practised during the ijth and early part of the i6th centuries. Abcr (s. ), a delightfully situated villaj^c, 5 m. E. of Bangor, at the mouth of a narrow valley famed for its two waterfalls. The larger one (2 m. distant) is known in Welsh as Rhaiadr Mawr (the "Great Cataract"), and after heavy rains it is a fine Kpectacle, its lower portion pre- senting an unbroken sheet of water 60 ft. in height. The lesser fall is about \ m. distant. Immediately W. towers the great mass of Moel Wnion (1902 ft.). Near the village a mound is pointed out which is reputed to have been the site of a palace of Llewelyn the Great. 85 NORTH WALES Abeniu^cll (s. ), a pretty village i m. S. of Dinas Mawililwy, at the confluence of the Angell and tl)C Dyfi. Near the station the Angrll pre- sents several falls. Ahirtiiiron, a small villape at the end of the I.lcyn promontory (Caernarvonshire), 155 m. by ro.id from Pwllheli, whence an omnibus runs daily except Sunday. It was formerly a -halting place for pil'irinis bound for Uardsey (q.v.)- It hrtS an interesting old church (restored) consisting of N. and S. aisles, with several interesting features, including a good IVrp. 11. "window, a circular- headed (loorw.tv, etc. In the parish are a number of interchting antiquities. Abcrdovcy (s. ), a pleasant and busy little port and watering-place on the N. bank of the estuary of the Dyfi or Do\ey, 4 m. S. of Towyn. The scenery on both sides of the estuary is very fine, the mountains in the background seeming to give i» a touch of their own gran'lcur. Noted for its fishing facilities, Aberfnlt, a village ij m. N.IC. of Pwllheli, with a picturesque old church, noted for its long N. aisle and bell-tower. Ahirfjrau-, a decayed village at the mouth of the Ffraw, on the S. coast of Anglesey, 2 m. S.W. of Bodorgan station, on the line to Holy- head, noted as the ancient seat of the princes of N. Wales. Here, Rodcric Mawr (the "Great") had his palace in the 9th cent., and the place con- tinued to be a roval residence until the reign of Llewelyn (d. 12S2). Little if any trace of the old palace is now to be seen. Here it was that the famous code of Laws framed by Howel the Good (940) were constanilv kept. The church ABLRANGtLL— ABKRLLEFHNNI (restored) shows some interesting features, notably a I2th-cent. doorway in the S. aisle, and a 14th- cent. font. The village is a favourite resort for anglers seeking sport in Llyn Coron (1^ m. dist.int). Abcy'ilc, a market town on tiie N. coast, 5 ni. W. of Khyl, with pop. 20S3. As a watering- place it is somewhat eclipsed by Pensarn (which see). The church, dating from the reign of Henry VIII, (restored 1^:9) has two eaual aisles, int- resting lemnants of old stained-glass in the \L. window, a I3th-ccnt. stone cro''8 let into the lloor, a square tower, etc. To Abergele churchyard attaclu's a mournful interest in that it contains memorials of a number of persons who lost their lives in two sad accidents that occurred /in the vicinity. Seven of the 178 persons who lost their lives b\ the burning of the Ocean Monirch in Abergele Bay, August 24ih, 1848, lie buried here, wlule near by stands a granite monument to the memory of the 33 victims of the terrible rail- way accident near the town in i N^>8. Alhrghishn. See Pass of. Ahergynohcyn (s.), a pretty village in the Dysynni valley, 7 m. N.li. of Towyn, chiefly inhabited bv quairjmen, and the terminus ot the short narrow-gauge or "toy" line from Towyn, known as the Talyllyn Railway. Here vehicles are generally in readiness to convey tourists to the lake (3 m.). Cader Idris may be ascended from Abcrgvnolwyn. The dist-mce is about 8 m.; this is considered the most gradual ascent, and takes about 3}, h. The path joins the Dolgelly pony track near two stone pjllars. Aberllcfi'inii, 2 m. N. of Corris, terminus of 87 NORTH WALES the " 'I'oy Railway" from Machynlk-th (qv.), with important »latc quarries. Abcrmuh, junction for the short-branch line uj) the valley of the Mule to Kerry (q.v.), 4 m. S.W. of Mongoniery. Abcrsoch, a pleasant little fishing-village and watering-place on St Tudwal's Bay, off which lie St Tudwal's Islands (which sec). A coach runs daily from Pwllheli to Abersocli in connection with the Cambrian Railways. There is much beautiful scenery and many objects of interest in the vicinity, including the quaint village of Llaneng.m (q.v.). A/on W'eiiy on Cardigan Bay, 19 m. S. of Carnarvon, 4J m. E. of Pwllheli; junction of the L. & N.W. and Cambrian lines. A led, the, is a tributary of the I'.lwv, having its rise in Llyn Aled, a small lake in the Hiraethog Hills (Denbighshire), whence it starts on its north- ward course through a picturesque dingle in which it makes two pretty waterfalls, Llyn-yr-Ogo and Rhaiadr M.iwr, about 5 m. S. of the village of Llansannan, where the river turns I"., for a short distance and then again flows N., finally joining the I'lwy at Pont-y-Gwyddel. About 2 m. N.E. of Llyn Aled is the pretty Llyn Llymbran. Al:^cit, the, a tributary of the Dee, issues from Llyn Alwen, a small sheet of water, in the Hir- aethog mountains, near the source of the Aled, which runs N. to the Elwy, while the Alwen flows S.E,, and has upon its R. bank the village of Llanfihangel - Glyn - Myfyr, and upon ita L. bank that of Bettwa-Gwcrfyl-Goch. It thus enters Merionethshire, where it is joined by the 88 ABE RMULE— AMLWCH Geirw issuing troni Cerrig-y-Drudion. This tributary forms a considerable cascade in its passage througli Glyn-dilfwys, where a bridge of one arch crosses a chasm 50 ft. wide. It finally joins the Dee opposite Llangar, S.W. of Corwcn.. Alyti (or Alun), the, has its rise among the hills about Llandcgia, and liowing N. along a narrow vale, passes the villages of Llanarmon and IJanfcrras, and enters Flintshire in the vicinity of Moel Fammau, " the Hill Oueen of the Clwydian range." The Alyn now j)ursue8 a S.E. direction, and at Hesp Alyn, on its wav to Mold, the river takes a turn upon itself, and then follows an under;.;round course for half a mile, happily referred to by Drayton in the lines — • Then Alen makes approchc — who, earneit to be tliere, Fcr haste twice under earth her crystall heade doth runnc." In its further progress from Mold to Hope and Caergwile the stream washes the foot of the eminence on which the house known as Harts- heath is built, the scenery about which is of a most romantic character. Again entering Den- bighshire, the Alyn continues its S.E. course for fomc distance, then turns N.E., passes the pretty village of Gresford, and finally enters the Dee at Holt. Anil:c\-Ji — pronounced Amlooch — (s.), a busy seaport on the N. coast of Anglesey, 17 m. from Gaerwen Junction, where the Anglesey Central Railway branches off from the L. & N.W. to Holyhead. Although a place of some imporiance 89 NORI'H WALLS it hag fallen off both in business and population owing to the diniinishinj; pra.iuctivitv of t'c copper niines in tlic near-lying Parys Mountains (q.v.). It has a good harbour, cut out of the solid rock to accommodate the vesbcis necessary for carrying on tht- copper trade, and is protected by a breakwater. Population 30S6. Araus, the, a mountain range in Merionethshire running nearly due N. and S., a little S. of Bala Lake of which Aran Bcnilyn (tijoi ft.) and Aran Mawddwy (2970 ft.) are the highest peak*. The ascent of both is bcft made from Llanuwchllyn, though the peaks mav be reached also from Din^s Mawddwy and Drws-y-nant. On the N.E. slope of Benllyn lies the small Llyn Lliwbran, noted for its fishing. Aretiii^s, the, a group of mount.tins in Merioneth- shire, midway between Maentwrog and Bala. They arc best ascended from Arenig Station, K m. W. of Bala. The ton of Arenig Fach (2264 ft.) may be reached from a little inn, Rhyd-y-fen f^ m. froni stat. ) under the hour. Arenig Fawr j8co ft.) may be climbed in about the same time by proceeJiog along the old road to Ffestiniog until a farm called Milltir-Gerrig is reached, and there asking for directions. The surrounding panorama on a clear day is very fine, Bala Lake being seen E. and the sea W., while Snowdon and Cader Idris are visible N.W. and S.W. respectively. Arenig Station, on the line from ImL to Ffestiniog, 8 m. W, of Bala, lying about midway between the Great anJ I>ittlc Arenigs, that is, Arenig Fawr (S.) and An nig Fach (N.). To the E. of the mountain lies Llvn Arenig. yo ARANS— BALA Arthog (s.), a villaj;c i\ m. S.W. of Dolgclly, on the S. i-ide of the Mawddach estuary, visited for its waterfalls and beautiful scenery. It consists of little more than the chapel and a few houses. A few miles from Arthog are the twin Creigencn Lakes under the shadow of Cader Idris, There are delightful walks in the n-'ighbourhood. Among others one to Llys Brad wen, an ancient manor house, held to have belonged to Hdnowain of Bradwen ( I 2th cent.). Dtiqillt (s.), a populous \illage, with lead- smelting and other works, on the Dec estuary, 2 m. N.W. of Flint. Bala, a small market town, at the N. end of the lake of that name, consisting for the most part of two main streets, with a population of 1537. At the end of High Street is the station ot the Bala-Ftestiniog line, between which station and Bila Junction — at which trains to and from Bar- moutli stop — are frequent trains. Omnibuses also ply between the two. Bala is interesting chiclly for its lake, the second largest in Wales. It has little history and no manufactures, but has for years been a centre ot religious and educational activity. Its Grammar Sciiool, founded two centuries ago, is now a county school, governed by the Act which provides for intermediate education in Wales. I* has also a Theological College, formerly for Calvinistic Methodist students only, but now for all sects. Chief among the other buildings of the place is Christ Church, a modern Gothic structure. and subsidiary to the parish church, which is situ- ated at Llanycil, about a mile distant, on the side of the lake. Ne.ir the station is a tumulus, or tomen, supposed by some to have been a Roman NORTH WALES encampment, but held by others to be an ancient Moot Mill. It is curious and interesting, and well worth a visit, if only for the view to be had from its summit. Another interesting object in the town is the monument to the Rev. Thomas Cliarles, a man who in his day was the liglit and life of Dissent in Wales, and one of the founders of the B. 5c F. Bible Society. It stands in front of the Calvinistic Methodist Church in Tegid Street. \Vithin a few years (1903) Bala has been enriched by a second statue (in bronze) tx) a local celebrity, namelv, Thomas E. Ellis, for some years member for NIerioneih and chief Liberal Wliiji, who was burn at Cynlas, a few miles distant. But though these exhaust the matters of special interest in Bala itself, there .ire many attractions within easy reach of the town, first and foremost of them all being the lake. There are a number of objects and views in the immediate vicinity of Bala that are well worth ao hour or two's stroll. One of them, of course, is the outflow of the Dee from the lake. Another it Rhiwias, on the opposite side of the Trywcryn from Bala, whose grounds are very delightful ; and finally, not to make too long a list, no one should miss seeing the Vron Stone Quarry. It is on a hill-side close to the town, and presents a very singular rock-lemple-likc ap{>carance. Bangor, one of the oldest cities in Wales, is beautifully situated on the Caernarvonshire side of Menai Strait, and has a population of upwards of eleven thousand. Its name is derived from Ban Chor (" the high or beautiful choir "), a conventual establishment founded here about a.d. 525, by 92 BANGOR Dciniol, son ol the Abbot of Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire, who became the first bishop of the diocese. It consists of two portions, Upper and Lower B;ingor. The hitter, or older, portion hes in a valley which stretches down to Garth Ferry, and constitutes the business centre of the town. Upper Bangor spreads itselt out on higher ground, is modern in npj)earancc, having well laid-out streets pleasantly sliaded with trees, and is much resorted to by visitors, chiefly, however, by those who come for a more or less lengthy stay, the place not l)eing so much a centre for the tourist elemeiv as some others. Nevertheless there are few towns in North Wales more conveniently situated for excursions through and about the Snowdonian mountains, as well as into Ant^lesey and Lleyn. ''It is the railway junction for Bethesda, and for the Caernarvon and Afonwen line, with branches to IJanberis and Rhyd-ddu (for Snowdon). Though not so busy a port as Caernarvon or Portmadoc, Bangor does considerable trade in that line, being the chief haven for the shipment of the .slates from the Penrhyn quarries. It is also a place of call for the Liverpool and Llandudno steamboats. By its selection as the seat of the University College for North Wales, Bangor has become the leading educational centre of that part of the Principality. Originally housed in the old Penrhyn Arms Hotel, commanding delightful views of the Strait with its wooded slopes and shores, it has recently seen the foundation laid of a more com- modious home in Bishop's Park. Other educational establishments in Bangor are Friar's Grammar School (now under the Welsh Intermediate 93 NORTH WALES Education Act), which dates from 1537, when it wai founded by Dr JcHcry Clyn ; the University College Hall, for women ; the North Wales Normal College (for training teachers of elementary Mchooli) ; the Church of F.ngland Training College for Schoolmistre$*e« ; the Indcjiendcni College and the Baptists' College — an array ot institutions which brings a l^rge number of young people to this beautiful town for their training. Among the more notable buildings in the place may be mentioned the municipal otficet and the Free Museum and Reading Room, iD connection with which is a good library. The chief building, however, is the cathedral, situated, of course, in the old towo, and, like St David's and Llandatf, in a hollow. Of the original structure built by Dciniol {i.e. Daniel) there are naturally no remains, nor of several successive erections, one of which was destroyed bv the English in 1071. After a subsequent destruction in 121 I it was again partially restond, to be once more greatly injurctl about 1247, during the wars between Henry HI. and the Welsh. Finally it WIS burned down in 1402 by Owen GU-ndower, .tod for upwards of ninety years remained in ruins. 'I'he choir was rebuilt in 1496, and the west touer and nave in 1532 (according to an inscription, at the exjxrnsc of Bishop Sheffmgton). It is a handsome Gothic structure, cruciform in character, with a central and a W. tower, though not much larger than many parish churches. The nave is 1 1 4 ft. in length, and has six Perp. arches. In each side are six three-light windows, those in the N. circle being Perp., those of the S. Dec. The clerestory windows (of triple lights) are 94 BANGOR without foliatlun. The W. tower, of tlirce stages, ifi 60 h. in height. The larger portion ot the church, up to the time (1^6^)) when Sir Oilbert Scoit undcttoolc iu restoration, was Per p. in character, witli fragments of ijili-cent. work. Under his direction the transepts regained their original *l)ec. style, in accordance with portions found built into the crumbling l6th-ccnt- walls. The choir (attributed to Hiiihop Dcane, in I496) was restored. The Perp. uindows were left unaltered, but tbi- roof was raided to its older and higher pitch, and now consists of a fine timber vaulting richly gilt and coloured. New carved stalls and pavement were added, as also a reredos, presented by Mrs Synu-s ot Gorphwysfa, in nicmory of a brother. ^ 'I'h^ monuments in the cathedral are more interesting than numerous. There are two J4th- cent. tombs (Dec.) in the choir, one (S.) thought to be that ot liiihop .Anian (d. 1328), the other (N.) held to be that of Tudor ap Grono ap Tudoi. In the S. transept is a w.ill inscription to Owen Gwynedd, whose remains aie said to nave been buried near by, and in the N. transept is a mural tablet to the Anglesey poet, Goronwy Owen. S. of the choir is a white marble altar- tomb to the memory of Uishoj) Morgan and his daughter ( 167 1-82). In the Chapter House (above the muniment room) is stored the cathedral library, which contains some rare works, including tlie Pontifical of Bishop Anian, the so-called " Bangor Use," or service-book. Among other rclici, generally oi chief interest to visitors, is a pai: of tongs formerly uvd tor removing dogs from the church. Near 95 NORTH WALLS the cathedral it thr old Bishop'* Pjiacr, the Deanery, an.i the Canonry. It nerd hardly be uid that thr virwt from Bangor arc variel and brautilul, and not thr Iratt pirating point from which to rnjoy thrm ia thr pirr, w:'ich itrrtchr* two-thirds of thr way acroM thr S'rait. littngor hiodi, or Baogor on Drr (to calird to dittinguith it from Bangor in Carrnarvonthirr), a small Till.igr 5 m. S.!*!. of \*' ' (..i» formerly thr site o\ the uKiest con>' Mtihment in thr kingdom. It was founded in thr 2od cent, a.d., and, according to S|>erd, numl>rrrd, in thr yrar 596, 00 frv. -- -^ - r. - - . Not long af:*- -v - !< the I .. ■ 1 200 of Its I. : monks slain by lithrlfrid, King of Northumbria, who left thr placr wrilnigh a ruin. A few ,p... :„. .1 .1,- con\rntual buildings arr still If place \» lirld by thu«r learnrd in such mattrn to havr brrn thr lk)riuni of A fv hlf, lying otf thr |>oint of the Llevn promontory, trom which it is a Itttir ovrr a milr dittant (7 m from Abrrdaron), was 10 namrd by the Saxons " Hy) brcausr of its bring a faTourite ret;<.-. «; ;..c bards or saints. On account of thr swiU tidal How which runs brtwrrn it and tbr mainland, and in bad wr.>thrr used formrrlv to intrrrupt communications for wr- ' ', it was calird by the Hrituii ) n;j Kr...„ ; of the current. Bardtry is nrirly 2 m. long by about ■^ broad at thr northern end. On thr N. side arr the ruins of St Mary's Abbry, to^ndrd by Cadfan about 5i^>, though little now remains except part of a tower and tome traces of a chapel or oratory. 96 BANGOR ISCOHD- BARMOUTH Accordio{* to the old chronicles, those of the monLt of Bangor Iicord ((^-v.) who escaped the swords of Mthflfrld of Northumbria, tied to Bardsey, and in due course hel{>ed to make up the total of ao,ooo uinu said to have laid their bones there. For generations it was regarded as a place of peculiar ^.nnctitv, and so attracted a countless stream ot |'i'^;rims. The lot.d po|'ulation of the island does not exceed seventy, including the per- sonnel of the lighthouse situated near the southern point of the isLnd. Some of the pet)['le are engaged in agriculture, others devote themK'lves to fishing, and find a good market at Abcrdaroo for the crabs and lobsters which they are able to catch in abundance. Banuouth, a sea-port town on Cardigan Bay, ^t the piouth oi the Mawddach (or Maw), which has ot late years beconie one of the tavuurite watering-places in Wales. It is roost romaotically situated and within easy reach of a large number o( places and objects of interest and attraction, in.-luding Harlech Castle, IJanaber Church, the i'anoranu Walk, Cader Id:is, Llyn Bychan, etc., which give something to occupy the time for weeks together. The to.vn faces S.W, and is well i^rltcrcd from N'.l!. winds by the loft v clitTs which . ». it on that side and ujK)n the »Iopcs and terraces whereof many of the older houses are built. The more mo«.lcrn j>arts of the town, however, are on the tiat at the foot of the crags. There is the one main business thoroughtaie. Near it is the station, and close at hand the harbour and the quav, with the hotels and residential quarters wherein visitors chiellv forgather, and whence they mav obtain glorious vieu s and breaths from the wide-spreading G i;7 NORTH WALES bay. The saniution of ihe town it ;;ood and there is an excellent supply of water, brought from Dodlyn Lake, some milei dittant. The objecu of interest in Barmouth are not many. There are two churches, both extremely modern, one, dedicated to St John (consecrated 1S90), built on the hilhide, while at the end of Hi;;h Street is St David's Church, a chapel of ease to the old |>ari»h church, which is situated at Llanaber (li m. dist-int). Note in St .lohn'.H the white marble font in the form of an angel holding a shell. Worthy of note, also, as the chief anticjuitv of B.irmouth is an old house on the quay known as /V ^tftn m Bermo, traditionally associated with the plots of Jasper Tudor, Earl of Pembroke, for the invasion of I'iogland, but of w! ich little of the I ' ' rure remains. To most, .'..luever, the chief .......u of the pl.ice will ever be (he Mawddach and the brjutitui estuary, with the bridge (nearly \ m. long), crossing it aod the river, and the .vellnij;h unsurpassable views obtain.ible at every point oJ vantage. One of them, not readily equalled, may be enjoyed from the bridge (over which there is a footway, toll 2d.), whence the vie.; of Cader Idris, the estuiry, and the surrounding hills generally, especially about tunaet, it not easily forgotten. At the Barmouth end of the bridge is the little harbour of A!ieram?^ra, while near by, at the mouth of the estuary, lies Tn\j j firacri/ (Friar's Island), form- ing a Dntural breakwater, and a favourite resort for swimmers. Finallv, tor the nature lover and student, it may be i,iid that there is not a better place in the whole of N. W. Ics for bour.i>ing, or for the 98 .iASINGWriRK ABBFY— BEAUMARIS btudy of practical geology, than Barniottli and vicinity. (Population, 2ic6.) IJiisiiifj'ii'erl: Ahhtv. These ruins arc- situated o ^ on an eminence near to Hollyuell station. They consist of portions of tlie S. transept and S. aisle, •iith one pier and half an arch of the nave. On ic F. side of tlie cloister enclosure is part of tlie sacristy door ; also portions of the dormitory, Jiiie on the S. are remains of the refectory, .iinl on the W. part of the gate-house. The pre- vailing style througiiout is E.Fi. It is not knoun who was the original founder of the Abbey, but a religious house is known to have existed here prior to I I 19 and that it came under the Cistercian rule in I 131. The Abbey was dissolved in 15^5, but ua* reopened for a season under yueen Mary, and lor a long time after the grounds were used by Roman Catholics as a place of sepulture. Near ihe ruins are traces of what are held to be Watt's Dyke, which is known to have terminated on the N, coast somewhere hereabout. lii'tiKniarist tlie county town ot Anglesey (pop. 23^10), is situ.ited at the N. end of Mmai Strait, 6^ m. from Bangor by road and 3 by water. Its first charter dafts from 1283, the year in which the Principality was annexed to the linglish Croun by Edward I., who changed the name of the place from Bornover to Beaumaris. He also built the castle (1295) ^^^^ dominated that side of the Strait and now forms one of the chief attractions to visitors, apart from the beautiful situation and charming surroundings of the place. It formerly had some imj)ortance as a business centre, but all that has departed, and it is now a place of residence only, noted for iti bracing air, its facilities for 99 NORTH WALES sea-bathing and yachting, and for many other con- veniences, including that of economy in living. The town is clean and well built, and though it has as yet no railway, it is easily reached by 'bus and bv steamboats from Bangor, and by the latter from Llandudno and LiverjX)ol occasionally in the kummcr season. Among the attractions of the town are the pier and the green, which is close to the pier and, equally with it, presents to the eye a varied and never-wfarying prospect of mountain and sea, the ficw embracing the Great Ormc's Head, Pcnmaenmawr, Aber, Bangor, Penrhyn Castle, and (in the distance) many ot the peaks of Snowdonia. The parish church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands on a slight eminence in the centre of the town, and consists of channel, nave, N. and S. ai.les (chapels of St Mary and St Nicholas), with an embattled tower, carrying a peal of six bells. The main part ot the structure dates from the close of the i 3th cent.; the roof of the nave is i 5th cent., and the upper part of the towi-r modern. The carved woodwork and scdilia are particularly worthy of note, presenting heads of varied type and character, carefully v. urked out, and evidently of greater antiquity than the existing chancel (i6th cent.) and thout^ht to have come from some supposed religious house. Very quaint, too, are the rustic figures on the Miserere seats. Among the older monuments, note (in the vestry) an alabaster altar-tomb (15th cent) with recumbent figures of a knight and lady ; also (in the chancel) memorials to the father of Sir Philip Sidney and to five knights (l6th cent.). There arc also in the chancel several monumenti to 100 ( BEAUMARIS !ic Bulkclcy family of later date: one in white iDarble to the wife of Sir R. B. Wijliams- Hulkelcy, and another (by Wcstmacott) to Baron Hulkeley. Baron Hill, the seat of the Williams-Bulkelev 'imily, stands on a beautifully wooded eminence overlooking the town, and is surrounded by a fine park, to which the public have free acciss. The I'ulkclcys have Ix'cn in |X)8!>cssion ot mc estate since the time of (Jueen Elizalx'th. The house dates fr( m the time of James I. It was built with a view to the reception of I'rince Henry when on his way to Ireland, but his untimely death so affected Sir A. Bulkeley, the builder, that he had no heart to carry out Iv's original design, and »o remained content to live iii the part already hnisJKd. In the grounvis N.l'". of the mansion may be seen the sculptured sarcophagus of the Princess .'oan, daughter of King John and wife of I.Iewellvn tlie Great, who was buried at IJanfaes (cj.v. ). Behind Baron Hill, on rising ground, stands an iibeli^k to the memory of Sir Richard Bulkeley, the defender of Beaumaris Castle in the time of C\,arle-. I. The Castle is the chief object of interest con- nected with Beaumaris. It stands at the N. end of the town, and covers a considerable extent of ground. In plan it is altogether different from the castles of Conway and Caernarvon, presenting an outer wall protected by low "drum" towers, and a main structure within, nearU quadrangular in form, with a strong round tower at each corner. The banqueting hall, with five large windows, and other rooms of state, the domestic offices, and the chapel are all distinctlv traceable. There are many other lOI NORTH WALES details of the structure that are well 'vorthy of notice, but need not be entered into here, as, for instance, the galleries in the wall that seem to have led round the entire circuit. The Castle was surrounded by a fosse, which communicated with the sea by means ot a canal, designed to enable vessels to approach and supply the garrison with provisions and other necessaries. Bfddtin Gicfr Ardudicy ("the Graves of the Men of Ardudwv ") are situated about i^ m. N.li. of Ffestiniog. They consist — or did, for little of them now remains — of stones standing upright in the turf about \ m. N, of the road to Bala. They are interesting on account of the legend connected with them. The story is that the Men of Ardudwv, being in want of wives, made a foray into the Vale of Clwyd and carried thence the women they required. When they reached the point -vhere are the Beddaii (graves) of the ravishers they were overtaken by the enraged fathers and lovers of the women, and in the battle that ensued were all killed. Sad to relate, the women had become so enamoured o\ their captors that they could not bear the thought of surviving them, and rushed in a body to the sheet of water (a little to the \l.) called after them "The Maidens' Lake" (Llyn-y-morwynion), and throw- ing themselves into it were drowned. The old Roman road, named Sarn Elen, which runs from Hcriri Mons, through Dolwyddelen, in the direction of Bettws-y-coed, passes through the site of the " Graves," which some hold to be the last resting- place of Roman soldiers. There is anotlier Llyn-y-morwvnion on the N. side of the Bwlch- y-Tyddiad (q.v.), one of the famous passes in2 BEDDAU GWYR ARDUDWY leading into that part of Merioneth known as Ardudwy. Bcddgclert, a picturesque village 7 m. N. of Portmp.doc, on the Caernarvon bide of the river Colwyn, takes its name, say some, from the story ot Gckrt and Llewelyn's hound, but by others, and with more truth, from a saint named Kclert. It lies in a beautiful vale, shut in on all sides by mountains, at the junction of three valleys, the streams from two of them (the Colwyn and Gwynant) forming tlic Glaslyn, which, cutting its way through a stupendous gorge, fmds its outlet to the sea over the Treathmawr. Though so fmely situated, with Mocl Hcbog (nearly 2600 ft.) on the W. ami the Aran peak uf Snowdon (2473 ^^•) on the N., the village itself contains little that is of interest 8a\c the curious old church (Early Pointed), the remnant of a priory of Augustine's for both men an! v/omen, the oldest monastic establi-hment in Waits except that of Bardscy (q.v. ). As its archives, along with the destruction of the edifice by fire, were lost, little is known of its history ; it is ♦ known, however, that it had a munificent patron in Llewelyn-ap-Iorwerth ( 12th cent.), as also in the last of the name, his grandson. Beddgelert (])ronounced *' Bethgelcrl ") is a convenient point from which to ascend Moel Hebog and Snowdon, and to explore other fine scenery along the course of the Colwyn, the Gv. vnant, and the Glaslyn. One path to Snowdon mounts under the wooded heights of Dinas Emrys, connected by tradition with the memory of Merlin and likewise with that of Vortigern, the remains of v/hose walls and ramparts are still to be seen on its summit. 103 NORTH WALES One of the objects to visit, of course, is Gelert's grave, pointed out in a field near the church, and marked by a group of stones, though, truth to ttll, Ijoth the grave and the legend of Llewelyn and his faithful hound are alike devoid of foundation. For the facts see the Rev. A. Elvct Lewis's " Bedd (Jclcrt : its Facts, Fairies, and F"oik-Lore" (1899). Btdd Gu'rthcyni. See Nant Givrthryrn. Bcrrieu'y a picturesque village 2 m. N.W. of Montgomery, on the river Rhiw, which here falls into the Severn. A little above ihe village is a pretty waterfall. Bey\iy)i, a village at the head of the Ellcsmere Canal, where the Dee is spanned by a chain bridge. Above the bridge is a weir which has been much celebrated as the " Horse Shoe Falls," while below the river tumbles through a narrowing channel amid a wild disorder of rocks and stones till it comes to what is known as the Robber's Leap (Llam-y- Lleidr). Near-by is Llantysilio (q.v.). Betlifsddf a town of considerable size (pop. 10,000), 6 m. S.E. of Bangor, consists in the main of one long street, about midway of which stands the Methodist chapel from which the place takes its present name, it having been originally called Glanoguen, from the name of the river on which it is situated. It owes its growth and im- portance to the slate quarries, which, next to Ffestiniog, are the most considerable in Wales. The quarries on the mountain side present a busy scene, and are well worth a visit. Bethesda is a convenient place from which to make the ascent of the peaks Carnedd Llewelyn and Carnedd Defydd (S.E.), and to visit Llyn Ogwen. 104 RETTWS-Y-COFD Bettu'S-Abcrf^elf, a pleasing little village 4A m. S. by W. of Abergele. Jyctlus Gannon U.), 5 m. K. of Din.i« 'unction, on the n.g. line to Snowdon, with the lofty hcij^ht of Moel Eilio doniiniting the village on the H. and tiie smooth slopes of Mynydd Mawr rising a little E. of S. I3tt(:.s-y-Coccl (s. ), a village on the higli road tf) Holyhead, on the L. bank of the Conway, a little below its junction with the Llcdr, and at the point where it is joined by the LIug'vy. It h.is h;cn called "the Paradise of Wales," and in truth tlic whole neighbourhood for miles round is sur- passingly beautiti;!. But it has become spoiled bv its be.iuty ; during the season it is overrun with tourists, so that it is hard to enjoy it because of the pcnny-pcep show character it has taken on. Still even this cannot destroy the charms of the place, and as it lasts for but a couple of months in the summer, there are ten months in the year when nature is left pretty much to herself, and her works and ways may be seen and felt to |)erfection. Hottws-y-coevl may be said to have been discovered by*David Cox; at least he and the many other artists who like him painted in and about it made the place famous, and so attracted visitors and tourists, until nov." the artist has left it to the angler, the golfer, and the excursionist. The old church (restored) is one of the oldest in the Principality. It contains, besides an ancient font, a recumbent effigy in full armour of Griffith ap David Goch (c. 1380), the grandson of the unfortunate Prince David who died with his brother Llewelyn after a last "forlorn hope '' for Wales at the hand oi the common executioner. There is a 105 NORT!! WALHS world of p.itho8 in the inscription, well-nigh illegible, of the tomb : — •' Hie jacet (Jruffydil ap Djvid 06<:h Agnui Dri, mi'frcre mci." The old church is now disused, save as a mortuary chaj>el, havin;; bet-n replaced by a modern Gothic itruciure, whose beautiful font is s|>cciallv worthy of note. The village, most of whoso houses, as well as the hotels, arc deTotcd to the service of hospitality, stretches Jrom Pont-y-pair, an old stone bridge dating from the i ^ih cent., that crosses the foaming LIugwy on four lofty arches, to the newer iron bridge over the Conwa;., named af:cr Waterloo, in whose year it was opened. The distance is nearly a mile, and horn end to end there is hardly an object that has not been painted and p.iintcd again, the old ivy-covered bridge a thousand times, and all the beauty spots for miles round almost as often. To point them out is almost a work of supererogation, they lie so thickly in eTerv direction along the streams hastening to commingle their waters at Bettwi and, as it were, behind every rock and bryn ; but note may be made of the Swallow Falls ( Rhaiadr-y-Wcnnol), the Miners' Bridge, the Fairy G'cn, th<- Falls of the Conway (q-».)» Caj)el Garmon (whence a fine view of the Snowdon range may be obtained), the Machno Falls, and IJyn EIsi, a silent pool (s.) amid low hills, at an elevation of 275 ft., whence MofI Siabod (pronounced "Shabod") is seen — all within a mile or two of the villagf. (Pop. 881.) Z^A7t;mM-/'yt.s/»«Jo^, the junction oftheG.W.R. and the L. & N.W., 3 m. N. of Ffestiniog; 106 low FALl-S BETT\VS-V-COED nRAICH-V DDINAS modern and uninti'rrsting in itself, but in the mid«t of intertstinj; scirrry, at the head of the valley oJ the Dwyryd. (Poj)ulation, 6741.) Blacti Ha/rnt, the source of the Severn, shout \k m. from IJvn Bugeilvn, N.F. of Flinlimmon (q.T.). Bodcl'.i'ydda)!, 6 m. S. o\ Rhyl, .1 little W . o\ St Asaph, noted for it* beautiful marble church, 'uilt by Lady Willoughbv de Broke at a memorial •0 her husband, the tpire of which, 200 ft. high, ■i^rmi a conspicuous landmark. The interior decora- tion of sculptured marble, carvings and iiaincd glau attracts many visitors to the church. It stands near the gateway of Bi>de!wyddan Hall, the seat ot the Williams family, descend -.nts of Sir Wm. Williams, Bart., one time Speaker of the House of Commons ; noted for its collection of ancient armour. Boiifari (s.), 4 m. N.K. of Denbigh, on the Clwyd, noted for its fishing ; a good point from which to ascend Moel-y-Parc Bodnrgtitt (s. ), Anglesey, on the Ime to Holyhead, the nearest station for visiting New- borough and Al^ertfraw (q.v-). Near-bv is Llyn Coron, a favourite resort of anglers, affording good sjx)rt. Bont-Hdu, 5 m. E. of Barmoutli, on the Dol- gelly road. Here is the Halfway House, in the grounds of which is a sroall waterfall. Borth-y-Gcst, a flivourite seaside village for boat- ing and bathing, i k m. S. of Portmadoc. Braichy-Ddinas, the ruins on the summit of Pcnmaenmawr of one of the strongest of old British fortifications, with remains of walls 12 ft. high, ot immense thickness, and showing ancient celik in which the garrison li\ed. 107 NORTH WALHS Rreiddeu Hills, the, a conspicuous group of three peaks on the Shropshire border, about 4 m. N.E. of Welshpool, of which Brciddcn (1202 ft.) is one. Mocl-y-Oolfa, the highest ( 1 3C0 ft.), is the mobt southerly. Between the two rises Ccfn- v-Castell, on which arc traces of a considerable encampment. Breidden is crowned by Rodney's Pillar (commemorative of his victory over the I'rerch in 17R2), behind which is Caer Dignil, a remarkable earthwork, coniisting of an enclosure surrounded by a high bank and broad ditch. Here was fought a battle ( i 292) between the Welsh and Hnglish, in which Madoc, a cousin of Llewelyn, commanded the former. lirvti lir^hi'ys, 4 m. N.M. of I.lansantlTraid, interesting to Americans because of its ancient parish church and Yale Chapel, and the near-lying family seat of Plas-vn-Yale, whence, in the troublous days of the Pilgrim Fathers, the father of HIihu Yale, who gave his name to Yale College, went to New England. Subsequently l£lihu acquired great wealth in the East Indies, and, returning to I'ngland, came in due courie to be buried in Wrexham churchyard, where his tombstone bear» this quaint inscription :-- " Born in America, in Europe bred, tn Africa travelled, in India wed. Where long he liv'd and thri\"d, in London dead ; Much pood, some ill lie did ; so hope all's even, And tiiat his soul through mercy's gone fo heaven." Bull Bay, a pretty little bathing-place, i^ m. N.E. of Amlwch, on the N. coast of Anglesey. Buttiugton (s.), z\ m. N.E. of Welshpool, the junction of the L. & N.W. and G.W. joint line 108 BREIDDEN HILLS with the Cambrian. The little church, with curious old font, is interesting. Buich Cyfi'u'ydrym, a pass leading to thr summit of Carncdd Llewelyn. Bu'lcli JJrus Aniudwy. See Drii't Ardtulivs. B'ivlch Oi'rddnii's, about 4 m. W. of Dinas Mawildwy, on the road to Dolgelly. From the top of tlie pass (1065 ft.) there is a fine view of Cader Idris and the country towards Barmouth. Bu'lch Rhiu'filen, 10 m. S. of Ruthin, on the road to Llangollen, is the highest pass (1300 ft.) in this part of Wales. Tlie journey over the pass discloses some fine views, the sea by Rhyl being visible N. on a clear day, the Snowdon ranges W., with Moel Fammau in the near distance. BwlcJi Rhii.' Hirnaut, 3 m. N.E. of the N. end of Lake Vyrowy, on the R. from Lake Bala. The descent on the S. side of the Berwyns, which the pass crosses (1641 ft.), is exceedingly fine. Bti'lch-y-Ddcufatn ("The Pass of Two Stones"), 3 m. S.E. of Llanfairfechan, I403 ft. in elevation. From here an old Roman road leads to Aber. Bwlch-y-Groes, or " Pass of the Cross," from a cross that formerly existed there, 5 m. S.E. of Llanuwchllyn, on the R. to Dinas Mawddwy, one of the wildest and most solitary passes in N. Wales (1950 ft.), presenting a wide view over desolate moorland and bare hill country. Bii'lcJi Tyddiiid, a defile between Rhinog Fawr and Graig Dhu, 1294 ft. above the sea, and 7^ m. E. of Llaabedr. In ascending the "bwlch" the tiny lake, Llyn-y-morwynion (the Maidens' Lake) is passed. 1 09 NORTH WALES Dxcrdd Artlitir (Arthur's Tabic — one of the many to be met with in Wales), between Penmon and Llamidona (on Red Wharf Hay), i£. coast of Anglesey, is the largest ancient Biitiih camp in the island. It presents remnants of strong walls, with a deep fosse, and shov.s traces of cells. The view from the elevation is very fine. The eminence is known also as Dinas Svlwy. Cii(l< r Idris, a ran>;e of mountains in Merioneth- shire, running in a direction from li.N.E. to W.S.W., whose N. base presents a ruj»gcd line of precipices 4 m. in length. The S. side is less precipitous in character, except at the eastern end, The highest jxjint of the range towers to a height i)t 2929 ft. (see Section II.). Geologically, Cadcr Idris is built up of ii'.neous rocks, com- |)Osed chieriy of amygdaloidal greenstone, under- laid by felspathic trap and long lioes of green- stone, intirliedded with slate. This may be seen in the precipitous N. clit^ of the mountain. Cacr Drcwyn, an ancient British fort on the L. bank of the Dee, 1 m. S.W. of Cor wen, marked by a great rampart of loose stones half a mile in circuit, held by antiquaries to be one ot the most wonderful of its kind in all Wales. Of course, no one can s.iy with certainty to what misty |)eriod it may not date back ; but we know that Caer Drcwyn served worthily the purpose for which it was constructed, when Owen Gwynedd, and later Owen Glendower, here assembled their forces to withstand the forces ot Henry II. and Henry IV. respectively. Caer Gai, a hill near the upper end of Bala Lake, where are evidences of an ancient strong- hold. IIO BWRDD ARTHUR— CAERNARVON Ciwrciuion ValUv, 4A nj. S.W. of Welsh- pool. Caerg'u-rlc (s. ), 6 nu N. of Wrexham, 5 m. S. of Hawardcn, now an insignificant village, though formerly a place of importance, near which ajc remains of Caorgwrle Castle, fragments of walls and a tower ; also traces of a British stronghold. Ciifrlii'iii (s. ), on the river Conway (Caernaivon side), 4 m. S. oi Conway, v. here arc remains of the ancient Roman station of Conovium. Vestiges of Roman buildings have been found, including a therma (or bath). These lie near tiic church- yard towards the river. The churchyard con- tains some fine old yew trees. From Caerhun vestiges ot the old Roman road, which formerly led from Tal-y-Cafn to .Aber, by way of the B\\ !c!i- y-ddeufaen (pronounced " Boulk-i-Theuvaen "), are distinctly tractable. Caernarvou (s.), at the njouth of tlie Seiont, near the S. end of Menai Strait, is a considerable town ar.d port with a population of 91 19, and being finely situated for exploring the Snowdon district, is a favourite centre for tourists. It is, besides, a place of great historical and antiquarian interest, being one of the few towns in England in which the old walls are still to be seen ; and tlie old castle remains externally entire, as in the days of its feudal strength. It has been said that, taken as a whole, Caernarvon may be regarded as the most beautiful town in N. Wales; and there is, in truth, much to be said in favour of the claim. A finer situation for a town could hardly be con- ceived. On the W. and N. it has the Menai Strait, opening into Caernarvon Bay ; on the S., I I I NORTH WALES with woods on one side and a busy quay on tlie other, tiows the Seiont, a tumultuous mountain stream, almost to the confines of the town ; and on the side from whence it comes — the mountains ! These stretch away also to the S. and S.W., ending in the latter direction in the craggy steeps of Vr Eifl and Carreg-v-Ham ("The Rock of the Leap"). The chief attraction of Caernarvon is, of course, the castle, which rises above tlie strait at the point where it is joined by the Seiont, and has water on three of its sides. Seen frdm the water side it has a wonderfully imposing apj)earance — an impression which is strengthened rather than otheiwisc by a closer examination. The walls enclose an area of just uj)on thiee acres ; they arc nearly 8 ft. thick, having a gallery within their substance for the purpose of defence, and are flanked and strengthened by thirteen strong polygonal towers. Of these the prin- cipal is the Eagle Tower (W. ), which guards the mouth of the Seiont, and is surmounted by three square turrets. It has its name from three defaced eagles which formerly adorned its battlements. This tower is the only one that can be ascended, a stairway to the top having l>een kept in good repair; so that those who care to enjoy the view over the neighbouring island of Anglesey, over the mountains, and over the sea as far away as the Wicklow Moun- tains, can do so. In one of the roo;iis of the Eagle Tower, barely 12 ft. by 8, Edward IL is reputed to ha\e been born. Unfortunately for the tradition, however, this portion of the castle (commenced by Edward L in 1284), is proved not to have been built until many years later, and by Edward IL himself. 1 12 -1 h < u /: o < < u CAHRNARVON The main entrance to the castle, known as the King's Gate, is on the N. side, and is approached by a bridge over what was formerly the moat. It is Hanked on cither side by strong towers, the one on the ji. being known aa the Well Tower and thai on the L. as the Granary Tower. Above the gateway, which was ilefended by portcullises, is a canopied statue, traditionally said to Ixr tliat of luiward I., though it is generally held to represent I Edward II. A second entrance on tlic E. side lb called the Ouecn's Gate. The S.W. tower is used as a meeting-place by Freemasons ; but the structure is, for the most part, a mere shell, that requires a vivid imagination (and not a little knowledge) to re-create and j>eople as in the days of its might. The old fortress has seen stirring times. In 1294, in an insurrection of the Welsh, headed by Madoc, one of the chiefuins ot the country, it was uddenly attacked during the fair, and after the ^urrender the town was burned, and all the English in the place put to death. ' A little more than a century later, Owen Glcndower twice laid siege to the castle, though in vain ; and during the civil turmoil of the 17th cent, it three times changed hands. Finally (in 1660) an order was issued by Parliament for its demolition, but it was only partially carried out; and so this ivy-clad ruin has come down to us to give an added charm to a scene already full of beauty. Below the castle is the Castle Quav, a favourite walk in fine weather for the enjoyment of the sea air. At the N. end of this promenade are a pier and large dock ; at the S. end the Custom-House, from which, along the side of the Seiont, extends H 113 NORTH WALES the quav, invariably busy with the receiving and shipping of slates from the Llanbcris and other quarries near-by. Thcsi arc carried to all parts ot Hngland and the Continent, as well as to America. Copper ore is likewisi- ihipped hence, chieHy to Cardiff, and there is a fine general shipping trade. The town u.illa, with their round towers, are •till well-nigh entire, and though they cannot be walked round, as at Chester, their presence helps to give an air of ijuaintnesi to the place quite in keeping with its antiquity. The streets within the walls, narrow .ind old fashioned, are equally char- acteristic. High Street, the main thoroughfare, is spanned bv the arch of l-astgate, which has betn adapted to the purposes of a Town-Hall, while one of the old towers is used as a prison. The parish church of Caernirvon is half a mile distant, at Llanbcblig (a name derived from St Publicius, son of the Emperor Maximus and Helena, daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall) ; but there are sever.il modern Episcopal and other churches in the town, as also a Training College for teachers, an Insti- tute, a Free Library, Theatre, and other public buildings. Caernarvon is a corporate town, with a charter (granting many privileges) dating from the time ot the founder of its castle. A natural feature connected with the place that has not yet been mentioned is Twt Hill. It over- looks the town on the W., an^l though barely 200 ft. in height, the view from its summit is one of the finest, embracing Menai Strait, a considerable portion of Anglesey, the Snowdonian Mountains from Penmaenniawr to Vr Eiri, Caernarvon Bay — in short, a circuit of nearly 40 ni. of land and sea. "4 I CAERNARVON— CAPEL CURIG The site of Segontium (q.v. ) lit-s half a mile S. of Caernarvon on iho licddgelcrl roid. The old station covered an area ot seven acres. 1 lirougli it passed the road known as Sarn I.len, still visible in places, which led troni the fortified port of Dinaff Dinlle to Dinas Dinorwic. Cturs'nS («.), at the contluencc of the Carno and Severn in Montgomeryshire, about fy m. W. of Newtown, once an important Roman station, held by some to be the Mcdiolanum of Tacitus. Traces of the ancient encampment mav still be seen, cover- ing a large area, and on the high grounds in the vicinity are the remains of other camps and strong- holds. Several Roman ways converge at Cacrsws, and among tlu-m that of Sarn Sws. Caersws is said to take its name from a British princess or ijucen named Susan, who met the Roman forces here ..nd was defeated ; but when she went Iwfore the Roman general and asked to be put to death, he forgave her, saying she was too brave to deserve such a fate. Cturwys (s.), a liitle N. of the road from Mold to Denbigh, and i m. N. of the railway station, now an insignificant place, was formerly of some importance, dating, as is thought, from Roman times. It was at one time noted tor its Eistedd- fodau, the earliest ot which there is any record having been held here, by royal commission, in the reigns of Edward I., Henry VIII., and Elizabeth. The church, v.ith square embattled tower, is in- teiesting. E. lie the Halkin Mountains, which, honeycombed with mines and quarries, shield the vale from the easteily winds. The whole country round about is full of interest and charm. C.?/c7 Curig, ^i m. W. of Battv. s-y-coed, a "5 NORTH WALKS straggling village on the Llugwy, long famous as a centre for mountaineering in the Snowdon dibirict, as also for fishing in the IJugwy and the two Mymbyr lakes, a little to the S.W. Although the fishing is preserved, tickets of permission may be obtained from the hotel-keepers. In every direction there are points ot interest for the tourist and visitor. Along the Llugwy, particularly ai Tan-y-bwlch and Pont-y-Cyfyng, are some fine cascades. The village is a good point trom which to make the ascent of Mod Siabod (q.v.), a little S. of Capel Curig, as also the two Glyders (Glyder Fawr, 3275 ft., and Cilyder Bach, 3000 ft.), etc. The church is dedicated to St Curig, a British saint. Hence the name ot the place, which shows traces of Roman occupation. Cnpd Garntofi, 2 m. S.li. of Bcttws-y-coed, on the main ruad from Llanrwst to Pcntre Voelas. I'rom the church — note its ancient yew trees — there is a splendid outlook, which includes the Snowdon rangi-, though not Snowdon itself. Tliree-quarters of a mile S., at Tan-y-Coed, is a noteworthy cromlech within a walled enclosure. Capel Garmon is an e.isy walk from Bettws by way of the Waterloo Bridge. Capel Lulu. See Dzi-y^yfylchi. Carreg-y-g'walih (the Rock of the Falcon). See Gwydir Cattle. CariHtl Point, the extreme N.W. point of Anglesey, about 2 m. from the Sherries. Can; 5olyn Mawr, Llyn Tarw, Llyn l^u> ^nd the streams flowing from them. Castell Cidwm ("the Wolfs Castle"), the remains of an early British fortress situa'ed on the cliffs of Craig-Cwm-Bychan, at the N.W. end of Llyn Cwtllyn. Tradition connects this place with the death of a brother of Constantine the Great. It is said to have been the f istness of a robber chieftain n.imcd Cidwm, who, at the young prince was passing below with some soldiers on the way to meet his mother, shot him with an arrow. Helena (Elen in Welsh), when met near Tan-y- Bwlch by a messenger bearing the tidings of her son's death, cried out in her anguish, " Croes awr i mi!" ("O, bitter hour forme!") Whence the name of the place of meeting is to this day called Crocsor. Castdl Diiun: Bran ("Crow Cistle"), an ancient fortress situated on a conical hill (1062 ft.) on the N. side of the town of Llangollen (q.v. ), and forming a conspicuous landmark in the neigh- bourhood. It is a good half hour's walk from the town. The hill takes its name from the stream called Bran which washes its base. Wordsworth's description of it is — " Relic of kings, wreck of forgotten wars, To the winds abandoned and the prying stars." Castcll-y-Bcre, formerly one of the largest castles in Wales, now in ruins, i m. S.W. of Llanfiliangrl. at the head of the Dysvnni Valley. 1 I - NORTH WALES Castfll Llfinio^, on the S.E. coast of Angleicy, briwcen Trc'r Castfll and IVnmon Priory, consist- ing of a quadrangular kfcp, with a round tower at rich comer, surrounded by a moat, and dating from the inTasion of Anglesey by Hugh Lupus, Karl of Chester, and Hugh, Earl of Shrewsbury (1098). CastiU-y-i^aer. Sec I.hiynxtvril. Cffit yfaur, a village on a hill above Arirf.iir, 2 m. S.W. at Ruabon. CeiriofT I'nlley (Glyn Ceiriog). Sec /./, also of the Myddcltons of Chirk Castle. TKc Vale of Ceiriog was the scene of a fierce encounter between the Welsh forces under Owen GwyneJd and those of Henry H., when the latter, suffering great loss, was obliged to re- treat over the border. Chirk Castle, or Castell-y- Waen (li m. W.), on a commanding elevation, with the Bcrwvn mountnins as background, was an extremely strong frontier fortress, dating from 1013. It is quadrangular in form, with strong corner 118 CASTELL Ll.l£INIOG— ClIXAIN towers. The entrance gateway is on the N. front. The interior has been much modernised, so as to bring it info kccpin;^ with latter-day requirements. Few still mhahiicd lio.scs embody so much history or are associated with so many famous names, the castle having from iioger Mortimer (/<•»>/>. Iidward I.) passed succcs ively into ihe possession of the Arundels, Mowbr.iys, Ikauchamps, etc., tlnaily coming into the liands of Lord St John ot Uletsoe, from whom it pass-d by purchase (1595) to Sir Thomas Myddelton, Lord Mayor of London, brother of Sir Hugh Myddelton, of New River fame. The castle saw some lively times during tlie Civil Wars, Sir Thomas Myddelton having been successively besieger and besieged, and being eventually oblij;ed to surrender to the Parliamentary forces. The Duke of Wellington used to s{)end his iiolida\s here while at Lton ; iiis grmdmother, Lady Dungannon, being a Trevor. Offa's Dyke runs through the park, which is beautiful with ancient trees and a fine lake. One of t'e sights of Chirk is the aqueduct, 250 yds. long, and consisting of ten arches, 65 tt. high, which carries the Elle^smerc Canal across the Vale of Chirk and over the river Ceiriog. Equally worthy of note is the viaduct l^etwcen Chirk and Ccfn carrying the railway across the valley ot the Dee. Its length is 1 508 ft., and there are nineteen arches of 60 ft. spar, with a height of i ^o ft. From Chirk there is a short branch line to Glyn. CJfi^ilog (s. ), on the line from Caernarvon to Afonwen (i m. N. of the latter), where is the junction with the Cambrian Railway. Cilcain, or Cilcen, a village about 4 m. N.W. of Mold, whence is an easy ascent to the summit 119' NORTH WALBS of Mo«l Fammau (1H45 ft.). The church is worthy of a visit on account of Its richly-c.irvcd oak roof, said to have l->ccn taken from Basingwerk Abbey, and other features. Clocacnof^, a village 3A m. S.W. of Ruthin. Here, on the summit of Bryn-v-Reddau, upon a tumulus popularly known as Bodd Emiyn, formerly stood an inscribed stone, supposed to mark the grave of some prince. Part of the inscription is in Ogham characters, the only one of the kind in N. Wales. The stone was removed to Pool Park (where it may still be seen) many years ago. Clun Forest, a wild and rather desolate range of hills, running E. of the Kerry Hills in the direction of Bishop's Castle, Shropshire. Offa's Dvke skirts its E. border. Cl'uydian range of mountains. Sec Mori ylrthur. Clyttnog^, a pretty village on Caernarvon Bay, 9^ m. S.W. ot Caernarvon, with a rich background ot hills and woods. The church, dedicated to St Reuno, is one of the most interesting in Wales. Dating from trmp. Henry VH., it is supposed to occupy the site of an older edifice founded by St Beuno in 616. Cruciform in plan, with nave, chancel, and sacristy, two transepts, and a tower (W. ), it is a fine specimen of the style of its period (late Perp. ). Between the chancel and the nave is a richly-carved rood-loft. The carved timber roof is likewise worthy of note, also the three-light windows of the nave, the middle one ogee- headed, and the porch with it5 muniment room. The sacristy (N. of chancel), with groined roof, contains St Beuno's chest, made out of a solid piece of oak, with an aperture for the reception ot 120 Cr.OCAENOG— COLWYN BAY offerings. It is secured by three IocIcr, and was thought to have been so strong as to have originated the saving, " As well try to break St Beuno's chest," when something impracticable was suggested. From the porch a vaulted passage leads to the chapel of the saint, all that remains ot the once existing monastery. St Beuno's well (a cursing and wishing well), enclosed by a wall, lies on the L. of the road, | m. from the church. Among other interesting objects connected '.vith Clynnog, mention may be made of the Hachwen cromlech a little W. near the sea, and the waterfall of Dibhin Mawr, not far away. Clvu't'dorr, the. See the Torrent Walk, Dolgelly. Clyicedof^, the, a tributary of the Severn, Avhich, taking its rise to the S. of Bryn Bcdwen ( 1784 feet), falls into the Severn at Llanidloes. Ch'ii'c'dog, the, a tributary of the Clwyd, entering it 2 m. S.Fi. of Denbigh. Cohcyu (s.), known as Old Colwyn, to dis- tinguish it from Colwvn Bay, i i m. W. of Rhyl, is on the highroad, a little distance from the sea. It is a quiet little place, with more of rural charm than its neighbour, though equally noted for its bracing air. Col'cyii Bay (s.), a picturesque watering-place of quite modern date, noted for its mild winter climate. Its streets arc spacious and well planted with trees, its drainage good, its water supply — drawn from IJyn Cowlyd — pure and soft. Quite recently a pier (350 yds.) and pavilion have been added to the other attractions of the place, and the Esplanade — lighted throughout by electricity — ex- tended, on the one hand, to Rhos-on-Sca, forming 121 NORTH WALES the western headland of the bay ; on the other to Old Colwvn, near Pcnniaenrhos, forming its eastern horn. CoI'vvn Bay forms a convenient centre from which to visit most parts of N. Wales, while in the immediate neighbourhood there are number- less places and objects of interest. (Population, 12,^30.) Col'.i yft,xht, has its rise in Llyn Cwellyn, and joins the Glaslyn at Beddgelert. Conovit4m, a Roman ^t.1tion. Sec Carrhun. Conwdv town (pop. 52+2) is the most in- teresting, at any rate from an antiquarian point of view, of any in the Principality. Beautifully situated on the W. bank of the Conway, near where it falls into the Irish Sea, it is known to the Welsh as Abercor. 'vay. The river is somewhat more thm half a mile in width at lhi» point at high water, at whicli time the estuary has the appearance ot a noble lake. The town occupies a gentle slope, and takes somewhat the form of a triangle, the broad base whereof rests on the harbour, the S. horn of which is t iken up by the cistle, built on the edge of a precipitous rock, and having one side bounded by the river, a second by a nirrow creek, while the others face the town. The town itself is surrounded by a wall upwards of a milr in length, some I 2 ft. thick, with four gates and a series of semicircular towers. B^th wall and castle date from the time of lid ward I., and have been said on good authority to represent the high-water mark ot 1 3th-ccnt. military engineering. The castle has been pronounced the most perfect of all Welsh fortresses. It was built about the fame time (1284) as Caernarvon and Beaumaris, the object of all three of course being rn overawe 122 < t COLWYN— CONWAY the newly subjected natives of this jiart of the country. The walls nre of great thickness and arc tlanked by circular embattled towers, which must originally have been of great strength. Each of the tower^ was surmounted by a smaller one, which, ascended by a spiral stairway, served as outlook ; most of them, however, have disappeared. The castle had two entrance ways — one bv a narrow flight ot steps, cut out ot tiu- rock, formed a means 'of communication with the river ; the other, the grand entrance, on the land side, was aj^proached by a drawbridge across a deep moat. This gate had llanking towers, known re6j)ectively as the King's and the Queen's Towers, for the reason, probably, that they served as their pri\ate apart- ments when the Koyal pair resided in the castle. The interior was divided into two courts, on to which gave the entrances to the different apart- ments. The great hall (on the S. side) was 130 ft. long, 30 ft. wide, and 20 ft. high, and lighted bv nine F.E. windows, six of them lancet-shaped, overlooking the creek, and three larger opening on to the court. The roof was supported bv eight stone archc?;, only one ot which now remains. Under- neath were extensive vaults for stores. One of the features spcciallv worthy of note is the little chapel or oratory in the (Jicen's Tower, with groined roof, polygon E. end, and lancet windows. Note also the vault under the companion tower, the King's, the only entrance to which is by a trap door in the roof — doubtless a dungeon. Ti.e castle in past times went through some lively episodes. On one occasion while Edward I. was holding festivity there the Welsh came down m force from their mountain fastnesses and must J23 NORTH WALES have coniprllcd the royal garrison to surrender through tamine but for the timely arrival of a vessel with supjilies. In most of the movements and alarms in those parts in subsequent years Conway had its share. Bv the time of James I. the castle h;id (alien into " ruin and decay." During the Civil Wars of the succeeding reign, however, it was put into a defensible condition by Archbishop Williams, who first held it for the King, md then, changing sides, took part with General Mylton in his attack upon the town in 1646, These troubles past, Conway Castle again fell upon evil days under the hands of the Harl of Conway (to whom it was given by Charles 11.), who, in 16^5, dismantled it of well-nigh everything that could be carried awav, and left it a beautiful desolation. Besides the castle and the walls Conwav caR show a number of other buildings of great anti- quarian and aesthetic interest. Chief among these is the church, which stands in the centre of the town. It originally formed part of the Cistercian Abbey founded (1185) by Llewelyn-ap-Iorwerth, but of which few traces now remain. The main points of note in the interior are a well preserved rood-loft, some good panel work, and a fine screen. The ancient font also is worthy of attention ; as is likewise the tower (Dec. with Perp. additions). For therest there is littlebut modern work and restoration, except as regards the monuments, which are interest- ing, especially a slab with an inscription in memory of " Nicholas Hookes, of Conway, Gent., who was the forty-first child of his father, William Hookes, Esq., by Alice, his wife, who was himself the father of twenty-seven children ; he died 20th 124 C 1^=31 ' -- - 1 r^' ^ f \i Si Sk 1 CONWAY— CORS-Y-GEDOL March 1627." The nave has a couple of canopied tombs and a bust ot John Gibson, the sculptor, who was a native ot Conway (d. i8'')6). The streets of Conway present some pleasing specimens ot ancient domestic architecture, but none of them more quaint and curious than the Plas Mavir ("the Great House"), built by Robert Wynne, ot Gwydir, in the time ot Queen lilizabeth. The interior is well worth seeing, if only for its spacious rooms, its panelled walls, and its coats of arms, in which are to be seen the initials E. R. and R. D., standing for the Queen and her naughty favourite Leicester. Co/ yr Ltni, a famous tumulus, one of the largest in N. Wales, situated on the top of a hill, j m. above Newmarket, Flintshire, and covering about an acre ot ground. Corris (s. ), a village of about 2000 inhabitants, 5 m. N. of Machynlleth, at the junction of the river Dulas and the Corys (whence the Welsh name Abercorys), and on the «' Toy " railway trom Machynlleth to .\l>eillet"enni. The district is noted tor its slate quarries, as likewise for its exceptional beauty. Cors-Y-Gcchl, the ancient seat of the \'aughan family, 2 m. E. of Pensarn station, with j^ate- lodge said to be atter designs by Inigo Jones. The parish church (Llanddwywe) contains some monu- ments of interest Near at hand is the cromlech known as Arthur's Quoit (Coetan Arthur) reputed to have been thrown by him from the top ot the neighbouring Moelfre(i932 ft.), and in the act impressed with his tinger prints ! There are two other cromlechs near the village of Dytfryn, the larger having a space beneath the top stone 125 NORTH WALIZS big enough to shelter at a pinch tour ur five |)Cr80DS. CorwcH (s.), a market town with a population uf about 2856, pleasantly situated on the S. bank of the Dee, near where it is joined by the Alwtn, and at the foot of the Beru yn mountains, whose most northerly point, Moel I'ferna (2050 ft. ) rises frowningly in the vicinage. It is an important railway junction, the Rliyl-Corwen line joining lure the Rual>on-Dolgelly branch of the G.W.R. I'hc place itself presents little of special interest. The church (restored) has an old roof and an ancient Norman font vith cable moulding. On the lintel of the S. door is a curious cruciform mark, !>.iiJ, according 10 the legend, to have Iwen made by Cilcndower throwing his dagger at the town or townsfolk from the height across the river known as Pen Pigin, or Glendowcr's Seat. This spot, marked by a cairn, is much resorted to by visitors on account of the fine view it affords ot the Vale ot Corwen and the adjacent mountains. In the churchyard is an ancient stone pillar, somewhat pointed in form, and bearing an incited dagger, which is popularly knov, n as Glcndower's sword. W. of the Dee, 1 m. distant, on rising ground, is a wide circle of loose stones, marking the site of an old fortified post (Cr.er Drewyn), one of a series that stretched from Dystrth to Canwyd. The outlook hence is very fine, including the Berwyns and Cader Idris in the far S.W. The Dee at Corwen atfords good llshing. Coii-arcli, the, a tributary of the Dyfi (Dovey), which it joins i m. N.E. of Dinas Mawddwy. It has its source on the S. slope of Aran Mawddwy. At Aber Cownrch is a pretty cascade. ii6 CORWEN— CRICCIETH Craig-y-Mu'ti, a lead-mine in the Berwyn range, ncai Llangynog (q.v. ), famous for its productivity. Cniii^'-\-D(Iiii(is, an eminence ] m. from ilie Menai Tubular Biidgc, on the Anglesey side of the strait, on which stands the column (lOO ft.) crecttd to the memory of the Marquis of Anglesey of Waterloo tame. The colossal sutuc in bronze which crowns the summit was the work of Noble. Craaldyii (the Bloody Fort), remains of an ancient British fortification on an eminence above IJandudno called Dinas, or Pcn-y-ddinas. The name Creuddyn was likewise given to the whole peninsula, some dozen miles in area, on which Llandudno stands. Ciiicitlli (s.), a town of some antiquity, and a watering-place (jHip. 1376), situated on the S. coast of Caernarvonshire, fronting Cardigan Bay. Many ui' its old houses remain, though they have been put somewhat into the shade by more modern erections, run up of late years for the accommoda- tion of visitors, brought thiiher to enjoy the sea- bathing and boating, and by the fame of its genial climate. Criccieth alone of Welsh watering-places boasts a due south aspect, and as the land slopes in the same direction, the town gets the full benefit of its position. As a proof of the mildness of its air, it may be said that the fuchsia grows to perfection in the open, sometimes to the height of 10 or 1 2 ft., while along with it such plants as the hydrangea and myrtle are often seen in bloom till quite late in the year. One of the charms of the place is its semi- rural character — a charm enhanced by the magni- ficent views presented to the eye on every hand. Turn seawards, and there, beyond the bay, are the 127 NORTH WALES mountains of Merioneth ; turn landwards, and behold the berried peaks of Snowdonia ! The chief object of interest in the place is the old castle, which stands on an eminence running out into the sea, and dividing the beach, as it were, into two parts. Some considerable portions, in- cluding two rather massive round towers, Hanking the main entrance, still remain, while much of the general plan of the fortification may be clearly made out —the double tosse and vallum, for instance, and other features. The fortress is said to have !)ecn built by Mdward I. (1286), but it is more likely, say authorities on the subject, that he only repaired and strengthened it. The whole country round Criccieth is full of scenes and objects of interest, enough to occupy visitors for days and even weeks together Within a walk of a mile or two arc the Yctym Cegid and the Rhos-y-llan cromlechs, the latter having a •' mushroom-shaped " table-stone. Croesor, a cwm, running S.W. of the peak Cnicht (2370 ft.), from which this mountain and also Moelwyn I'awr (2527 ft.) are often negotiated. (Sec Castell Cidwm.) Criggion, a village lying at the foot of the most northerly summit of the Breidden Hills (q-v.), crowned with Rodney's Pillar, erected in com- memor.ition of his victory over the French fleet (1782)- Cross Foxes Inn, ^h m. E. of Dolfjelly, at the point where the road to Dinas Mawddv.y branches (L.) from that to Towyn, whicl: follows the brook of the Torrent Walk (q.v.). Cwni Boc}il'u.'yd, a valley just below the Glyder. In it is the Llyn of the same name, said by geolo- 128 CROESOR— CYSSYLLTAU AQUEDUCT j^isls to be the best example in the district of a glacier lake. Cu'ni Bnc'jnog, one of the largest of the glacier valleys that stretch down from Moel y W'yddt.i. At the head of the cwm is the Llyn Du'r Arddu, Cicm 'BycJiaii, 5^ m. N,E. of Llanbedr, shut in on all sides except the one from which the Artro issues. 7^he lake ot C\i :ii Bychan is about i m. long, desolate and almost savage in appearance, troni the absence of wood. The craggy front of Cr;iig-y-Sacth (the Rock of the Arrow) over- shadows it on the S. Its N. shore is followed to reach the Roman Steps (q.v.). C'u'tti-y-glu (s. ), on the mineral line from Caer- narvon to Llanberis, near the W. end of Llyn Padarn. Cymmer Abbey (pronounced "Kimmer"), the remains of a Cistercian house (founded by Mere- dith and Grirtith, sons of Cynan, about the year 1200) at the junction of the Wnion with the Mawddach, 1 m, N. of Dolgelly. The place is known locally as Y Vanner (the House of God). Ot the abbey church there are some considerable remains, including the lower portion of the W. tower and some remnants of nave and choir. The walls of the E. end are the best preserved, showing three long lancet windows. Against the S. wall are vestiges of arcades, a pointed piscina, etc. Near the tower is the Abbot's lodging, forming part of a farm-house. There are a number of other details which will be interesting to the antiquary. The whole ruin, ivy-clad and most charmingly situate, as it is, breathes as it were an air of romance and peace that is not soon forgotten. CyssyUtan Aqueduct, which carries the Llan- I 129 NORTH WALES gollcn branch of the Ellesmere Canal, at a height ot 126 ft., across the Valley of the Die, about i m. S.W. of Acrefair Station. The valley at this point is a6oo ft. in width, and the water-way ix carried over it by means of an embankment i 500 ft. in length, supplemented by eighteen arches resting on sandstone j lers and two abutments, the height of the piers above low-water being 121 ft. The whole forms a magnificent piece of work. It was built l>v Telford, and took ten years to complete, beinj^; opened in 1 805. Cyiifiiel, the Falls of, on the river of the s.ime n.tme, about \ m. S.E. ot Ffestiniog. C\rru-\d (s. ), \)t m. S.W. of Corwen, on tiie line to Bala. Near it, on the N. Trystion, is a pretty cascade in a charming little dingle. Demvr.cy (s.), a village and watering-place, about ;i m. S.W. of Llandudno at the mou'h of the Conway estuarv, where is a quay for the shipment of slares from Ffestiniog and other quarry- ing centres. On a lofty hill behind the station are to be seen the remains of the once important castle of Deganwv, built originally by Maclgwn Gwy- nedd. Ultmiately destroyed by lightning, it was rebuilt by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester (iith cent.), to sustain many hard knocks and changes of fortune during the next two hundred years, being finally (1260) razed to the ground by Llewelyn the Great, not, however, before Henry III. h.id sutfend great distress from tamine whilst undergoing close siege within its walls. The ruins of Deganwy arc said to have been used bv Edward I. as a quarry for the building of Conway Castle. Denbigh (5.), a pleasant town pleasantly »« upon a hill, overlooking the fair Vale of Clwyd, 130 CYNFAEL— DENBIGH and cionunatcd by the ruins of what was one of the most considerable fortresses in N. Wales, is not a placf to be lightly l)assed by either by tourists or visitors. It is the county although not the assize town, is a bu^v market centre (with a pop. of 6872), and as the junction of the line from Chester, Rhyl, and Corwcn sees a good deal of come and go as regards passenger traffic. It is better known, however, to the angler than to the mere sight-sccr, the fishir;.', in the Clwyd and the Elwy being ot the best. I'he main tlioroughfare mounts the hill from the station, leading througii the Market Place, by a bye-lane, to the Castle, a monument to a local v orthy (Dr Evan Pierce) being passed on the way. The old Castle ruins are well worth a visit and ■X little study. There are remains of two walls, those of the Castle proper and those of the old town, the latter, v.hen standing, being nearly a mile in circuit, and haring scTeral gates with pro- tecting towers. The only one now left is the Burgesses' Tower, whicli is the best preserved jicrtion of the old fortification, with machicola- tions and portcullis grooves almost int;ct. The Castle gateway shows a fine pointed arch-vay, and over it a nicnc holding a statue, thought to be that of Edward I., in whose time the fortress was built, or else of Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, the builder, to whom the lordship was granted by Edward, after the defeat of David, brother of the last Llewelyn. The grand entrance was flanked by two octagonal towers ; but the whole is now in so utterly ruinous a state that only the most vivid imagination can recreate and see it as it was. The thing that remains, still unspoiled, is the view, and IS" NORTH WALES this can be enjoyed to the full from tlie ruinate walls and towers, to which wooden stairs and galleries give easy access. Within the space once enclosed by the oKi town walls, and not far from the Castle gate, i^ the church of St Hilary, supposed to have been the garrison chapel ; the old parish church of Drnbij^h being at Whitchurch (q.v.), about I m. from the town, on the road to Ruthin. Near to the ch.ij>el (a plain uninteri'.nng structure), in private grounds, are to be *eeu the remains of an ambitious project of the Earl of Leicester, who having come into possession of the lordship and castle, designed to build here a cathedral to take the place of St Asaph's, The best laid schemes of mice and men, however, as we know, gang aft jolev, and Elizabeth's favourite, occupied with other turmoils, forgot his holy edifice. During the Civil Wars Denbigh stood out valiantly for the Royal cause. After his defeat at Rowton Moor, Charles I. took refuge lierc for several davs, and the following year (1646) the Castle sustained a protracted s-iege under Colonel William Salusbury of Rug, but was finally surrendered, with the king's consent, to the Parlia- mentary Army under General Mylton, the doughty defender going out with the honours and pomps of war. Amonf; the public buildings wonhy of 6}>ecial note are St Mary's Church (1874), in the lower part of the town, a handsome Gothic structure, alx)ut whose reredos, with its Crucifixion, a lawsuit arose soon after its erection ; the Howell School for orphan girls, and the Grammar School, founde*i by subscription in 1727. •32 DENBIGH— DINAS EMRYS Dt-ruen (s.), about 4 ni. N. of Corwen, on the line to Ruthin and Denbigh, which here enters tlic VaK- of Clwyd. l't:c church contains a fine rood-loft ( I Sth cent.), and in the churchyard is a beautiful stone cross (early), 13 ft. in height, and in perfect condition. Dtjhts, the, a small stream tiowing into the Dovey trom the N., mar Machynlleth. Dijfuys, or Dutlws (s.), a sjate-quarryinj; vil- lage at tlie head of the valley of the Dwyryd, and at the terminus of a narrow-gauge railway, 3 m. N. of Ffestiniog. The slate here is chieriy obtained from underground workings. Diiuis, or Pen-v-ddinas. Sec CrfuJJyn. Dittos Briin. See Catlell Dimu Brun. Dittos Din He, a small watcring-pLce on Caer- narvon Bay, about 3 m. S. of Caernarvon and zl in. from Llanwnda Station. H^-rc, on an elevation overlooking the sea, are the remains ot a Roman encampment or fortress of great strength, which was connected with Scgontijin by a road or cause- way. It ic held to have been a British ])Ost prior to the Rom.in occujiation. The position is one ot great natural strength and has been much improved by art, there being a double range ot escarpments, with strong walls. DiiKis Eittrvs, a wooded eminence near dic lower end of Llyn-y-Ddinas, in the Vale of Gwynant, traditionally connected with Merlin. Here, according to the legend, Vortigern dwelt before his final retreat to Nant Gwrtheyrn, near Ncvin (q-v.). He gave the place to Merlin Ambrosius, his counsellor and soothsayer, and hence it was Itnown ever after as Dinas Emrys (Emrvs being a corruption of Ambrosius), or the '35 NORTH WALES "Fort of Ambrosius." On the summit of the height are still to be srvn traces of ramparts and of a small stone building. Here Voitigern heard — "... Wi»e Merlin first relate The destinies' decree of Britain's future fate. Which truly lie foretold proud Vortiger should lose. And from the top of Britt, so high and wondrous steepe, Where Dinas Emrys stood, shew'd where the ser- pents foughfe. The white that tore the red ; from whence the Prophet wroiighte The Britain's sad decay then shortly to ensue." — Drayton's Polyoluon. IJitKts Miiuiiih^y (3.), a small niarket-toun or village at the junction of the Geryst and Dovc_ valleys, 12 ni. N. E. of Machynlleth, and aboui 8 m. S.E. of Dolgclly. The village is it m. N. of the station. The place depends very largely upon the slate quarries, which are rather e.xteniive in the vicinity. Dinas M.iwddwy is the centre of a most beautiful district, with Cader Idris to the W., and Aran Mawddwy (2970 ft.) rising above it almost due X. Dinnt jfunctioii, 3A m. S. of Caernarvon, on the L. & N.W.R., whence a narrow-qaugc line runs up the valley of the Gwrfai for Snoudon. Diitoric'ic Slote Quarries, :ihoui i\ m. N.E. of Llanberis, on the other side of Lakes Padarn and Peris. They are, after those at Bethesda (q.v.), the largest and most important in W.iles, employing something like 3000 men. For the convevance of the slates there is a special line of '34 DOLFORWYN CASTLE railway to Port Dinorwic (q.v.) on Mcnai Strait, 4^ m. S. of Bangor. '^Diphwys, the highcsi peak of the Llawllech range (2462 ft.), which it terminates N. (see chap ii., also Barmouth, from which it forms a fine walk). Dolbadarn, the ruins of an ancient castle, over- looking the lower end of Llyn Peris. Designed to defend the pass into the interior recesses of Snowdonia, and for many early centuries the scene of strites and broils innumerable. All that is left of it is the lower stage of a round tower, with traces of two others, and a spiral stair. It is held to have been in existence for a favourite stronghold of Maclgwn Gwvnedd as early as the 6th cent. For 23 years Owen Goch was immured here for rebelling against his brother, Llewelyn-ap-Iorwerth. In Edward I.'s time the castle was besieged by the Earl of Pembroke, who compelled Datydd, the brother of Llewclyn-ap-Grytfydd, to surrender it after a short resistance, and in the long struggle which Owen Glyndwr sustained against Henry IV. and Henry V., it changed hands teveral times, being now in the possession of one side and now of the other, as the chances of war befell. The old ivy-clad ruin is doubly interesting as having been the only important fortress in the heart of Snow- donia. Dolforu-yii Castle, 3^ m. N.E. of Newton, Montgomery, stands on a wooded hill above the Severn. The fortress was built about I420 on the site of an ancient British fort. The chief interest of Dol-Forwyn ("the Virgin's Meadow") lies in the circumstance that legend connects it with the death of " Sabrina fair." >35 NORTH WALES " Rocky Dolforyn. Sabrina's early haunt, ere yet she fled 'I'he search of Gwendolen, her stepdame proud, With envious hate enraged." Dolgclly, the chief town of Merioneth, is beauti- fully situated in the midst of a broad and fertile vale, in the angles formed by the rivers Aran and Wnion, near the junction of the latter with the Mawddach, and at the foot of Cadcr Idris, which rises above it almost due S. Though very old, the place has little ot historical interest connected with it. If wc may judge from the old Roman road passing it, and from the finding of coins bearing the imperial stamp and superscription, it was not un- know to the Caesars. In 1404 Owen Glendower held his Parliament here, and an old house, now demolished, used to be pointed out as its place of meeting. It was, however, the one-time residence of .ludge Owen, who met with so tragical a death as a result of his condemnation of the Dinas Mawddwy outlaws. Here it was, too, that Glen- dower contracted his alliance with King Charles of France. Although some changes and improvements have taken place in the town, arising from modern needs, and especially in connection with the railway — it being tiie junction of the Cambrian and the G.W. lines — Dolgelly still retains much of its old-world character, not only in its narrow and irregular streets and lanes, but in its old-fashioned houses of grey stone, built, some of ihem, as would seem, for all eternity. The old bridge over the Wnion, enlarged and thoroughly repaired, dates from 1638, the church (though attached to an older tower) from 1721^. The latter, which stands on rising 136 1)01,GRLLY -DOLWVDDELAN ground in tlic middle of the town, has little to commend it to the eye, but it retains amcag its interior monuments the stone eflij^v (•4'h cent.) ct an armed knight, " Meuric liiius Ynyr \ychan " — one of the V^aughans of Nannau, in short. Close to the clmrcb arc aimshouses established by Dibhop Rowlands in 1616, and at the S. entrance to tiie town — founJtd some fifty years later — the Grammar School. For the rest there is nothing in the way of public buildings of particular note. And with '(uch ettrnal buildings and splendours round alx)ut, it can do without them. There is indeed enough of this sort to keej) the visitor busy for weeks; but for these — Cader Idris, the Torrent Walk, Llyn Cynwch, Cymmer Abbey, etc. — the reader must turn to other pages. The town has manufactures of iweid and leather, and a ]>opulation of 2160. Di'li^oih (s.),a villaj,f about niidwav between I'owyn and Abergynolwyn, on the Talyllyn Rail- way, where, amid charming luxroundings, is a picturesque waterfall, with a natural tunnel through the rock. *Dolu-\dd(ltin (s. ), a Tillage chieliy inhabited by men engaged in the slate quarries, on the L. & N.W. line from Bcttws-y-coed to Ffestiniog, 5A m. S.W. of the former place. The valley of the Lledr is here crossed by the Sarn Elen, the old Roman road, which can be traced running across the hills N. and S. towards Conovium (Cacrhyn) on the one h.ind and Heriri Mods (Castcll Tomcn- y-mur) on the other. The church (modernised) dates from the i6th cent., and was built by Meredydd-ap-Ivan, to whom (d. 1525) and his wife Alice there are mural tablets. The chief attraction of Dolwyddelan, howcTer, is the remains 137 NORTH WALES of its castle, a rude square tower, with fragments of a second, crowning a bold precipitous rock, wonder- fully in keeping with the rugged majesty of the surrounding mountains. It is ot uncertain date, though undoubtedly an ancient British erection, designed, like Deganwy and Dolhadarn, to guard one of the approaches to the inner sanctuary of Snowdonia. lorwerth Drwyndv.n, who was re- fused the throne because of his broken nose, made the castle his residence, and here Llewelyn the Great (reigned i iy4- 1 240) was born. Later {temp. Hcnrv \ IL) the castle came into the hands of the MereJvdd-ap-Ivan, the builder of the church, who appears to have sought in this lone retreat, though infested with outlaws, the safety he could not enjoy in the neighbourhood of his turbulent relations. The old town, very effective in its isolation amid isolation still greater, like that ot Moel Siabod, seen to the N.W., has often been painted — by Linnell and John Varley, among others. Doviy, the, or Dyfi, rises in a small lake under the cone of Aran Mawddwy, whence it pursues a turbulent course to the little village of Llan-y- Mawddwy, and thence to Dinas Mav,ddwy, where, making a fine bend S., it passes beneath Pon? Fynnant, an ivy-clad bridge of two arches, and 10 to Pon: Vallwyd and the charming village of Mallwyd (q.v.). A mile or two below, at Cemmes, the Dovey is joined by the Twymyn, and winds through a pleasing though less picturesque valley, past Llanwrin and Penegoes, the birthplace of Wilson the painter, near which place the river is joined by the Dulas, and so round Dinas Rock to Machynlleth (q.v.). Below Machynlleth Bridge the plain again opens out and Derwen Las, the •3^ DOVFY—DRWS ARDUDWY port of Machynlleth, is reached. Near the village of Pennal the Dovey is joined on the E. by the Llyfnant (q.v.), the augmented stream then flow- ing past the village of Carreg, where, sweeping round a headland, it becomes an estuary and joins Cardigan 'Bay below the port and bathing-place of Aberdovey. Tiie total length of the Dovey is about 30 m. Doufiiitg, the seat of the Earl of Denbigh, famous as the birthj'lace and residence of Thomas Pennant, author of " Tours in Wales," whose granddaughter married Viscount Feilding, after- wards Earl of Denbigh ( i m. S. of Mostyn Station). The hovisc, built in 1627, conti'ins a large library, in which is included the Pennant collection of manuscripts, besides numberless works of art and antiquarian treasures. Druids' Circle, or Y Meini Hirion, situated near the summit of Pcn.uacnmawr, 1 A m. behind the town, consists of a double row of stones, the outer one very much broken, the inner comprising ten or eleven large stones, with smaller ones be- tween, fairly complete. The stones, of course, arc much weathered. Dr'ii's Ardudwy, or the Ardudwy Gate, a pass (1255 ft.) between the mountains Rheinog Fawr and Rheinog Fach, leading down into the Vale of Ardudwy, as the district S. of Harlech is called. It is about 8 m. E. of Llanbedr. Steps similar to those known as the Roman steps, though less numerous, are visible here as in the neighbouring pass. Near the summit of the pass are two upright stones, known as Meini Gw^yr Ardudwy, supposed to be memorials of a battle, possibly for the possession of the gap. >39 NORTH WALES Dulas, the river, a tributary of the Dovcy, the two uniting their waters at the town of Machynlleth. There is another river Dulas in Anglesey, which empties its waters into Dulai Bay, on the X.li. coast of the island. Dulyn, thr, a feeder of the Conway, which hai Its source in two small tarns named IJyn Dulyn and Llyn Mclyn. Dyfrdwy, the river. See the river Dee. D.tygx/ylcfii, a pleasant vill.ij»e and seaside resort on Beaumaris Bay, 3 ni. W. ol Conway, watered by a little mount.iin stream, up the course ol which lies the Fairy Glen (q.v. ). Dvjjryn (s.), 4.1 m. N. of Barmouth on the rail- way to Harlech. 'I'he village is J m. from tiie station, and near it are a pair ot exceptionally fine cromlechs Dyji, the. Sec Dovey. I)vserth,i village 2 n>. W. of Newmarket, Flint- shire, and about 2 A m. from Prestatyn Station, is chielly notable for the remains ot its castle, on a height com- manding a wide view. The fortress was one of a series extending S. as far as Llandegia, maintained by the British to protect thcmsclvrs from their Saxon neigh- bours. It was strengthened by Henry HI. in 1242, but wai destroyed by Llewelyn the Great some twenty years later. The parish church has an inter- esting Jesse window, said, like so many others, to have come from Basingwerk Abbey. In the church- yard is a pillar of curious workmanship and unknown date, thought by some to have marked the spot where justice was administered in ancient times, though, in truth, the thought is but a guess. A little way from the church and opposite the village inn is a " waterfall," which may be read about in Dr Johnson's diary of his Welsh tour in 1774. 140 DULAS— EGLWYS RHOS Dysyniii, the, is a uniall stream ia the southern part of Merionethshire, formed by the waters which flow from the eastern and southern declivities of Cadcr Idris These collect at Talyllyn in Llyn Mwngil and pass thence through the dehghtful vale of Aber^ynolwyn to Lianfihangcl-y-Pcnnant. A little to the N. of Ynys-y-Maengwyn, the scat ot the Corliett family, the Dysynni receives the Mathew tributary ; the enlarged stream then, after a course of a few more miles, mingling its waters with those of Cardigan Bay. The estuary of the Dysynni is noted for its bass-fishing, wiiile salmon, sewin (the Welsh name for a variety of Sa/mo /ruitj), and trout abound higher up stream. luitii, thf, a stream which, havin<4 its source in the hillb south of Trawsfynydd, flous S. through 'the vale of that nanje, and with the rivers Cain and Camlan, forms the Mawddach. Just alxne its junction with the last-named river the Eden is crossed by the bridge Pont-ar-lZden. The whole of the vale n very beautiful, and on a fine day well repays a walk through it. EfcHtilityd, a picturesque village 2 m. S. ot Ruthin, with an interesting old church containing a good rood-loft. Noteworthy, also, is the old wooden font. Above the village on Pen-y-gaer, is an ancient encampment. Eglwys Fncli, a village on the road from Machynlleth to Aberystwyth, 8 m. S.W. of Machynlleth. Egluys Ftiir, a small village near Braich-y- Pwll, the extreme point of the Llcyn promontory — the Cnnganum Promontorium of Ptolemy — with vestiges of an ancient church. Egl'wys RhoSf an ancient church (restored) at 141 NORTH WALES Llanrhos, in the valley below Deganwy, formerly the buriil-place of the Mostyns, and containing monuments to members of tliat family. Its old oak roof and carved font are worthy of note. In the windows over the altar arc fragments of old stained glass (with much that is new). E^'l'ii'Yseg Mtinoj\ otherwise known as Plas Uchaf, one of the oldest houses in Wales, situated about 4 m. N. of Llangollen, in the heart of the range of hills known as the Fglwyseg Rocks (q.v.), and surrounded bv woods. An inscription over the door says that it formerly belonged to the " Lords of Powvs." The house contains many interesting mementoes of the past, including an old oak bedstead in which Llewelyn the Great is traditionally said to have slept, also a fine portrait of Cromwell by I-ely, etc. Eg!u\st-g Rocks, a range of limestone mountains, commencing a little N. of CaBtcll Dinas Bran and running almost due N. and S. with a northern bend W. It is peculiar among Welsii mountains for the regularity of its stratification. The view from the summit of the Rocks well repays the climb, the Derwyn Mountains especially being well displayed to the L., while away to the S.W, the Arans may be distinctly seen on a clear day. The view from the top of the Ej^lwysegs (ranging from 14OO ft. to 1648 ft. at the highest point) is wide and striking, including the plains of Shropshire as far as the Wrekin. Egryn Abbey, \\ m. N. of Llanaber Churcli, the parish church of Barmouth (q.v. ). Nothing is known of the abbey, of which the remains are scant. £r/f Moutiiabis, the, generally called the Rivals 142 EGLWYSEG MANOR (tiom die Welsh Yr FiH), arc situated near the coast of Caernarvonshire, almost due N. of Pwllheli. They consist of three conical heights of \arying altitudes, the middle and loftiest pe.ik rising to a height of 1866 ft., while that in the S.E. is only 1400 ft. This lower peak is particu- larly interesting for the reason that beneath its shadow lies the fortified camp or town called Trr'r Celri (/'.r. "the town of tlie tortrcsi"), covering a space of 5 acres, enclosed by walls and showing traces of cell-dwellings and other indications of primitive habitation and defensive engineering. On the summit of the hill is a carnedd, while below arc the remains of a cromlech. The road from Clynnog to Pwllheli crosses the Eifl by the Pass of I-linaelhaiarn (cj-^.)- Einion, the, a river which unites with the Bechan to form li.e Vyrnwy (q.v.). With its affluents Twrch, Banw, and Nant-yr-Eira, the !'"inion has its rise in the hills E. of Mallw\d and Dinas Mawddwy. E/idyr Mountain, consisting of Elidyr-fach (2564 ft.) and Elidyr-fawr (3030 ft.), lies immediately N. of Llyn Peris. Elistg's Pillar, situated in a meadow above \'^alle Crucis Abbey, and about ^ m. from it, was erected, according to the original inscription, by Concenn-ap- Cadell-ap- Brochmael, to the memory of his great-grandfather Eliseg, Prince of Powis, who fought in the battle of Bangor Iscotd (q.v.), in the year 603. The column was originally 12 ft. high, but was thrown down and broken during the Civil Wars, and when replaced on its pedestal by Mr Trevor Lloyd in 1779, was little more than half its former height. The W3 NORTH WALES grove in wliich it stands is known as Llwyn-y- Grocs, or *' Grove of the Cross," and hence the Pillar is supposed originally to have been cruciform. Elhsiitert' Civiiil, the, properly the Illlcsmere and Chester Canal, has a branch to Bcrwyn, above Llangollen. ni-wy, the, an affluent of the Clwyd, rises in the Hiracthog Hills in the vicinity of Llanrwit, and .ibout 2 m. from its source passes the village of Guythcrin, and then, after a few more miles' travel, that of Llangcrniw, in the churchyard of which are two pairs of upright stones, one pair with an incised cross. Subsequently changing its direction from N. to E., and passing by the pleasant village of Llanfair-Talhaiarn, it receives the waters of the Aled. The affluent makes some pretty cascades S. of Ll.msannan. After its junction with the Aled, the Elwy pursues its course for some miles, and then turns N. in its approach to St Asajih (q.v. ). Near the river at Wigfair, in a dini;lr, is a copious spring called Y Fynnon Fair. At this place the river is spanned by the bridge of Pont yr Allt-Goch, and a little below St Asaph it joins the Clwyd. Erbistoch, a pretty village in the valley of the Dee, between 3 and 4 m. W. of Overton, on the road to Ruabon. Erddig Hall, i^ m. S. of Wrexham, a seat of the Yorke family, noted alike for the beauty of its situation on a wooded knoll, and for its valu- able collection of antiquities, works of art, etc. These include many Welsh manuscripts, formerly tlic projicrty of Philip Vorko, author of " The Royal Tribes of Wales." Ewloe Castle, 01 the ruins of it, lie 2 m. X.W. »44 liLLLESMERE CANAL— FFESTINIOG of H.iwarden, on the road to Flint. Portions of two toucrs and some crumbling walls constitute all that is now to be seen, and these not easily on account of the dense wood in which they are hidden fj;om sight. Little is known of the castle beyond the fact that in its vicinity part of Henry IL's army wis routed by Cynin and Dafydd, sons of Own Gwynedd, in 1157. Fairhournc (s-)» sometimes called South Barmouth, i A m. from Barmouth Junction, on the S. shore of the estuary — a new town with a good stretch of beach for bathing, and backed by Cader Idris. Fairy Gien, the (or Ffos Noddjn), a name given to a rocky chasm through which the Conway forces its way, about i^ m. S. of Bcttws-y-cocd. The confining cliffs show in- teresting marks of erosion trom stones carried down by the turbulent stream. There is another Fairy Glen in the V'allev of Dwygyfylchi, in the upper part of which a small stream rushes through a deep "dough" or " nant " between wooded hills, and with much turbulence dashes over obstructing rocks and stones. Fclinhcn ("the Old Mill"), a station on the Beihcsda line, 3 m. from the latter. Fft'!itiiiio'^ (s. ), a town in Merionethshire, whose population (9654) is devoted almost wholly to slate quarrying, the neighbouring mountains swarming with men who cut and carve and fracture their sides to get this important com- modity. It is situated on the Dwyryd, which may be seen trom it meandering through the beautiful vale named after the town to Maen- K 145 NORTH WALL'S twrog and PortmaJoc. Words fail to do jubticc to the charms of this delightful vale, at the head of which, 2 m. N., is the village of Bbenau Ffestiniog (q.v.). Near the town are the falls of the Cynfael, a feeder of the Dwyryd. Roscoe, wriiing of these " terrific falls " nearly a century ago, describes the upper one as rushing "over three projec'.ions of dark rocks, which rise like steps one above another into a deep hiack basin, rendered still darker by the shadowing precipices." The second fall "is much less extensive than the other, and precipitates itself in a >mall stre.im down a shelving rock about 40 feet in height. It then bounds along a narrow chasm, and, struggling across the many-coloured rocks, reflects a variety of tints ai it falls from slope to sIojh: till, finding a more even bed, it at length meanders throuph the vale and mingles with the waters of the Dwyryd." A little way below the first fall it a bold columnar rock rising from the bed of the ritcr, known as Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, about which an amusing legend centres. The parish church of Ffestiniog, dedicated to St Michael, stands on the edge of a crag over- looking the vale, and is worthy of a visit, if only tor the views to be obtained therefrom of the valley of the Dwyryd and the mountains to the N.W. Ffestiniog claims for itself the honour of being the birthplace of Rhys Goch, or Red Rhys of Snow- don, a noted bard of the days of Owen Glendower. Ffestiniog is on the G.W.R. from Bala, while Blaenau is the junction of the G.W.R, and the L. 5c M.W.R. lines. Ffra\L\ Sec Abcrjrww. Ffridd-Fald'.yn, a well- wooded hill a little to 146 FRIDD-FALDWVN— FLINT the N.ti. of Montgomery Castle, noteJ for the remains of an old encampment. Ffru'd Fa'cr, the waterfall of. See Twymyti. Ffyttnoti Asa, or St Asaph's Well, a spring about a mile from Dvserth, once, as its name implies, held sacred, and much resorted to on account of its reputed healing powers, but now devoted to more secular uses. hfynnoji Elian, or "The Cursing Well," situated at Llancli.in, 3 m. S.E. of Colwyn Bay, was once so dread a terror to the superstitious that the very mention of it is said to have frightened people to death. The idea was that by writing the name of a person on a piece of paper, sticking a pin through it, and then throwing it into the v.ell, the iodividu.d thus implicated v. luld l>e cursed in body and goods. Ffyitnou Fair ("Our I.U'U's Well") is situated in a dingle by the river Elv/v, near Wigfair. Adjoining the well .ire the ruins of a cruciform chap'-l (15th cent, and Late I'erp.), partly over- g5o\v n with ivy. Well and chapel are apoitrophised by Mrs Hemans in the line, " Fount of the chapel with ages grey ! Flint (s.), a borough and seaport on the estuary of the Dee, 14 m. N.W. of Chester, is one of the least interesting of Welsh towns. Formerly its sea-borne trade was of some importance, but now it does little in that line, its population (5472) being mainly occupied in lead and coal getting and alkali- making. There are evidences of Roman activity in the neighbourhood, chieHv in the form of dross and slag heaps from their smelting-works, and it was in all likelihood a place of note throughout the -MiHi^Ie .Ages. Its castl^', a dilapida'ed and desolate »47 NORTH WALES ruin by the sea, it said by Camden to have been begun by Henry U. in 1 157 ; but there is external evidence to prove that the great castle-builder, Edward I., cither greatly restored or wholly rebuilt it. Here Edward II. met Piers Gaveston on being again admitted to his favour after banishment to Ireland ; and here, as we know from Shakespeare's famous scene, took place the treacherous betrayal of Richard 11. into the power of Bolingbroke ('399): — ■' CJo to the riule ribs of tlial ancient custle ; Through l)razen trumpet senvl the breath of parlc Into his ruined ears, and thus deliver; Henry of Bolingbroke upon his knees Uoth kiss King Edward's hand." Every one knows the rest. In the Civil Wars the cistle was held for the king by Sir Roger Mostyn, who, however, was compelled to surrender after a long siege (1643). In 1647 it was dis- mantled by order of Parliament. The crumliling ruins of this once important fortress stand a little to the N.E. of the town. They show that it originally consisted of an area an acre in e.Ktent, enclosed by double walls of great thickness, with circular towtTs at each angle. The keep, a strong detached tower at the S.E, corner of the pile, was connected by a drawbridge. It is formed of two concentric walls, each 6 ft. thick, the diameter of the outer one being 40 ft. In the curtain on the W, side are several windows with pointed arches. The church is modern, and of no special interest. Foryd, the estuary. See Rhyl. Ffos Noddyn. See Fairy Glen. Foxes' Path, the, or, in Welsh, Llivybyr 148 FOXES PATH— THE GIANT'S NOSE Cadtmiu, a well-known track from Dolgelly to Pen-y-Gader, the highest peak (2929 ft.) of the Cader Idris range. It is usually preferred for descending rather than ascending. Fi'oiii^ocJi, the first station on the line from Bala to Ffestiniog (so called from a farmhouse), is at the opening of a narrow valley running N. among the hills and watered by the Mynerch, a tributary ot the Tryweryn, affording good trout fishing. Gaeriven function, on the Holyhead line, where the Anglesey Central Railway branches oft to Amlwch on the N. coast. Gniillujd Valley, the, is that through which flows the Mawddach before it reaches Barmouth. It is overlooked from the Precipice Walk (q-v.). Gainalt, a curiously shaped height that rist-s above the pretty village of Akrgynolwyn. Garddeu, a height about i m. N.W. of Ruabon, on the top of which is a circular fortified camp, showing traces of old-time dwellings, or "cyttiau." Ofl^a's Dyke passes near it. There is a similar circular rampart (area about 70 yards] overlooking the village of Llanerfyl, Montgomeryshire (q-v.). Garth Ferrv, on the Menai Strait, near Bangor, by which it is 4 m. to Beaumaris. Geirw, the, a tributary of the Alwen that has its rise in the hills about Cerrig-y-Drudion. At Pont-y-Glyn the river rushes over a rocky obstruc- tion to its course, thus forming a striking and picturesque cataract right under the bridge, which, with an arch of 50 ft., spans a chasm 60 ft. deep — " a kind of devil's bridge flung over the deep glen and its foaming water," Borrow calls it ("Wild Wales," chap, xxiii. ). Gianfs Nose, the. See Mynydd-y-Gader. 149 NORTH WALES Gimlet Rock, in Welsh Carrcg yr Imbill, a curious formation at the n)outh of the harbour of Pwllheli (q.v.). Glancon-ii'iiy, the first station on the line from Conway to Bettws-y-coeJ, li m. from I-lan- dudno Junction. The rivr here at high water resembles a wide-spreading lake. Near the village is a fine cromlcth. The full name of the place is Llansantffraid-Glan-Conway. Glnndo'-fy (or Glandyfi) y unction, on the Cambrian Railway, 4 m. S.W. of Machynlleth. Thf N. branch goes to Towyn and Barmouth, the S. branch to Aberystwyth. Threr counties meet here. The junction is in Montgomeryshire, which is divided from Merioneth by the Dovey, while the village of Glendovcy (i m. S.W.) is in Cardiganshire. Glanywcrn, a pretty village 2 m. W. of Den- bigh, on the Clwyd, which is here crossed by a bridge. Glaslyn, the. which serves as the dividing line between Caernarvonshire and Merioneth, has its rise in Llyn Llydaw, a little E. of Snowdon, and, entering Nant Gwynant through a narrow gorge, follows the windings of that delightful vale (q.v.) to Bcddgelert, by which time it has become a considerable stream. At Beddgelert its waters are joined by those of the Colwyn, and the united stream, turning S., empties into Cardigan Bay, near Tremadoc. From its source down to the Pass of Glaslyn the river maintains the char- acter ot a lively mountain stream, confined between lofty precipitous rocks, and often making itself heard in miniature cataracts and falls as the descent becomes more rapid. At one point in its course is 150 GIMLET ROCK— THE GLYDERS a rock to which has been given the name ot tlie Chair of Rhys Goch, a bard of Owen Glcndowcr's days, who made himself famous by his patriotic boni;s. See Pont Abirglaslyn. GUndo'iVer's Mount, 3 m. E. of Corwen, on the road to Llangollen, is a mound about 30 ft. high, covered with trees, said to have been the site of a house in which Owen Glendower lived. From it a good view may be obtained of the Dee and the country round about. (jlendo-iccr's Scat, so called, is on a tree-clad eminence above the town of Corwen, named Pen-y- pigyn, where a cairn marks the spot known as the "Seat." Gloddaetli, a scat of the Mostyn family, situated on a well-wooded hill on the road from Conway to Llandudno, and within easy reach ot the latter. The house is Elizabethan in style, but is said to be on a still older foundation. It contains pictures and many historical relics of great interest. The grounds are thrown open to the public with great liberality, and the mansion on certain days. Glydtfs, the, two peaks rising a tew miles N.E.'of Snowdon. Glyder Fawr, the higher of the two (3279 ft.) lies to the S.W. of Glyder Fach (3262 ft.) Tiiey may be ascended from the Pen-v-gwryd Hotel, on the road from Llanberis to Capel Curig. Another route to Glyder Fawr ascends from Cwm Llyn Ffynnon, a little to the N.W. of the Hotel. Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr are connected by a series of precipices. Im- mediately N. of Glyder Fach is the long ridge ot Y Tryfan, scalable without much hardship on the W. side. Speaking of the summit of the Glyders, Roicoe says : " Rocks, bare, cloven, and jagged, NORTH WALES lie cros3ing each other in different directions, while the liuge pointed Tryfaen, with its sharp angular projections, height above height, seem like some huge monster ; these and a magnificent natural carnedd of enormous blocks, fit crown to the grandest crag and block, scene in Britain, are special attributes of Glyder Fach." It need hardly be said that the view from all these peaks is far reaching and impressive. GIy)i Ceiriog, the valley of the Ceiriog, a tributary of the Dee, extends from Chirk beyond the little village of LlansantfFraid Glyn Ceiriog, 2 m. S. of Llangollen. The Ceiriog is crossed by the aqueduct of the Ellesmere Canal, and also by the railway viaduct, both noble and picturesque works, which add to the interest of the landscape at this part of the vale. A tram line, 6 m. in length, runs from Chirk as far as LlansantfFraid, in the vicinity of which are important slate and other quarries. See Llansant[fra'uL Glyn Cywarch (or Cowarch), the glen of the little Cywarch stream, a tiny feeder of the Dovey, which has its rise in Hen Cwm, on the S. side of Aran Mawddwy. There is a pretty fall at Abcr Cowarch, where the stream joins the Dovey, Glyndyfrdwy (s.), the valley of the Dee between Cor wen and Llangollen, a most beautiful stretch of country, the road through which ir carried along the side of the Berwyn range, at some elevation above the river, of which it gives an extensive view. The Glyn is intimately associated with the life and doings of Owen Glendower, who owned a large domain in it and therefrom took his name of Glendower (Glyndyfrdwy) (see Glen- Joivers Mount). The village of Glyn Dyfrdvvy 152 GLYN CEIRIOG— GT. ORME'S HEAD (s.) is on the S. bank of the Dee, 4 m. W. of Llangollen. GlynlUfon Park, a seat ot the Newborough family, 5 m. S. of Caernarvon on the road to Clynnog. Here was in former times the strong- hold of Cilmin Troed Du. Gloyivlyn, a small lake on the N.W. side of Rhinog Fawr, noted for its fine trout of a bright golden colour. Near it is the Maidens' Lake ( Llyn-y-morwynion ) . GogartJt, on the W. side of St Orme's Head, where are remains (fragments of walls, a chimney stalk, etc.) of a religious house of an early date. It is referred to by Leland in his Itinerary, but practically nothing is known either about it or its history. Gorphwysfa ("the Resting Place"), a level open space at the summit of the Pass of Llanberis (1200 ft.), whence starts one of the tracks to the top of Y Wyddfa. From the same point also Y Glyder Fawr may be ascended. There is a good inn and a group of cottages. The outlook hence is bare and desolate, though very striking. Graves of the Men of Ardudwy. See Drius Ardudivy. Great Orme's Head, a long promontory running out into the Irish Sea and forming the extreme N. point of Caernarvonshire. It is about 6 m. in circuit, and rises at its highest point to some 700 ft. Above the town of Llandudno (q-v. ), on a hill named Pen-y-Ddinas (or simply Dinas), are remains of an old British fortress, showing vestiges of walls and circular cells or huts. Near it is a stone known as the Cradle of St Tudno (Cryd Tudno), whose church, the old parish church of 153 NORTH WALES Llandudno, is to be seen on the N. side of the Head. Grcsford (s.), a village delightfully situated at the head of the beautiful vale of the same name, through which flows the R. Alyn, a feeder of the Dee, 3 m. N. of Wrexham. The church is ancient and full of interesting memorials and associations. Its square tower, 90 feet high, with a peal of twelve bells noted for the purity and richness of their tone, was formerly accounted one of the seven wonders of Wales. Among its monuments is a sculptured stone to Gronow ap lorwerth ( 1 320), a knight in coat of mail ( 1 33 1 ), besides a number of others. The stained-glass windows, as well as the sculptured font, are said to have been brought from Basingwerk Abbey. Worthy of note also is the carving of the rood- screen, the stalls, and tlie ends of the benches in the choir. In the churchyard are some ancient yews, and near by, on the W. bank of the Alyn, is a petrifying spring. Quarter of a mile away — and well worth the walk to examine — is a mound known as the Roft, evidently at one time a fortified place, with remains of trenches, etc. Gresford is noteworthy too as being the birthplace of Samuel Warren, author of "Ten Thousand a Year," and the scene of "The Angler" in Washington Irving's "Sketch-Book." G nils field, a pretty village 3 m. N. of Welsh- pool, pleasantly situated among wooded hills, with an interesting old church (restored). About i m. N. is an ancient encampment named Gaer Fawr. Gicaaiynog, i m. W. of Denbigh, a former seat of the Myddleton family, having associations with Dr Johnson, whose friend Dr Myddleton, the •54 GRESFORD— GWYDIR CASTLE then owner, he visited there, and who erected a monument to his honour. At Ystrad, in the vicinity, over the door of a cottage, is an inscription said to have been v/ritten by Dr Johnson. Under it is the date 176b. The Doctor's Welsh tour took place in 1774. G'lVrfai, the, a small river which has its rise in Llyn Cwellyn some 3 m. W. of Snowdon, and llowing thence N.W. till Moel-y-Tryfan is passed, it bends suddenly W., and after a course of a few miles, empties into Foryd Bay some 4 m. S. of Caernarvon. Gwytheyni. See Nant Gnvrtheyrn. Gwrych Castle, a modern structure built on an old foundation, i m. W. of Abergele (q-v.), the seat of Lord DundonalJ. It presents an imposing appearance against its background of wood and cliff. Mrs Hemans spent some of her early days in the old house which this castellated dwelling has replaced. Gwryd, the, a little river that feeds the Mymbyr , Lakes, S.W, of Capel Curig, and gives its name to the Pen-y-gwryd Hotel, at the junction of the roads leading to the Pass of Llanberis, Capel Curig, and Beddgelert. Gwydir Castle, situated on the W. side of the Conway, \ m. from Llanrwst, on the road to Bettws-y-coed, dates in part from the year 1555. A great part of the house, however, was done away with in 18 16 and the present edifice built in its place. It is on a smaller scale, though much of the old character of the house is maintained, as well as a great deal of the old furniture, fittings and decorations, including several carved-out bed- steads of Elizabeth's days and a screen said to have 155 NORTH WALES been worked by Mary Queen of Scots. The house was originally built by a Wynne, and it remained in the Wynne family until late in the 17th cent., when by marriage it passed into the Ancaster family. It is now the property of Lord Carrington. The park and surroundings are very beautiful, and include, among other natural objects, a small lake and a waterfall named Rhaiadr-y-Parc-mawr. GiiyiKiiit, the, has its source in the little tarn of Olaslvn, lying right under the summit of Y Wyddfa, and making its, way through Nant Gwynant over a series of falls, it enters Llyn Gwynant, one of the most charmingly beautiful of Welsh lakes, richly wooded at its lower end, and about i m. in length. Pursuing then a S.W. course, the river passes through the small Llyn-y- Udinas, and so on to Bcddgelert, where it is joined by the Colwyn, the two streams forming the Glaslyn (q-v.). Within easy reach of Llyn Gwynant are several small lakes with a good name for plenty of fish. They are Llyn Edno, Llyn Llagi, Llyn-y-Adar, and the two Llyniau Cwn, all E. of Gwynant. G-iCythenUt a village on the Elwy, where wis formerly a religious house for nuns, over which St Winifred presided for a number of years, and at length died there. Four upright stones are still pointed out as marking her grave. See Holywell. Gyrn-ddn (1712 ft.), one of a grotip of peaks, including Gym Goch and Penllechog, N. of Yr Eifl, of which they form a part. Halkin, a village situated in the range of moun- tains of that name, 3 m. W^. of Flint. Here is Halkin Castle, a seat of the Duke of Westminster. 156 GWYNANT— HARLECH Halkin Mountain has a general direction N.W. to S.W., beginning in the vicinity of Holywell and extending to near Mold. It is noted for its rich lead and silver mines. Moel-y-gaer, its most southerly point, is noted for its perfect British fortified post. Hanmer, a village in the S. (detached) section of Flintshire, 2 m. N. of Bettisficld, having a Tudor church, dating from the time of Henry VII., with carved oak ceilings, etc. There are also monuments of the Hanmer family, from which Owen Glcndower took his wife. Hanmer Mere is a notable "beauty spot" in this part of the country. Harlech (s.), though formerly a place of some importance and still nominally the county town of Merioneth, is but a village of about a thousand inhabitants. It is beautifully situated, however, overlooking the sea and having a magnificent view of the Caernarvonshire mountains and of the S. coast of Lleyn. Its chief drawback as a watering- place is that it is a good half mile from the sea, although, as would appear, at one time situated close to it. But here, as at other places on this coast, the sea has withdrawn, leaving sands and marsh where formerly was good salt water. The chief object of interest connected with Harlech is its ruinate castle, one whose commanding position singles it out as second to none in this respect in the whole of Wales. Tradition says that there was a fortress on this bold precipitous rock as early as the 3rd cent., and that this was replaced by a still larger and stronger one in the mid years of the 6th cent. But whether such was the case or not — and it would be hard to believe that either NORTH WALES the Cymry or the Romans neglected so natural a stronghold — there is no doubt that the existing structure dates from the time of Edward I. It is said to be the work of the same military genius who designed the Castle of Caernarvon; but. whether such be the case or not, it is inferior alike to that fortress and to Conway in all save position. Still it presents some notable features and must have been a place of enormous strength for those days. Quadrangular in form, the sides measuring from 200 to 220 ft., its walls were of enormous thickness and were further strengthened by massive round towers at the angles, as well as flanking the main entrance, which faced E. towards the town. From some of these, if not all, sprung stair towers, or turrets ; but these have mostly disappeared. On the side next the sea the Castle was protected by its theer inaccessibility, while on the land side E. and S. a broad ditch was cut out of the solid rock. Over this, a draw- bridge, protected by an advanced bastion led to the chief gate. There are evidences also of the existence of a water-gate on the S.W. side, like- wise strongly fortified. Few ruined castles are so well worth a visit as that of Harlech, vvhich, besides its many points of interest to the student of the p^st and its wonderful outlook, has a stirring history behind it that only needs the pen of a Welsh Scott to make it live again in the pages of romance. In 14O4 it fell into the hands of Owen Glendower, who was, however, after a few years possession, turned out by Prince Henry. Some years later (1460) it became the refuge of Margaret of Anjou and her son, on the defeat of her hu5;band King Henry VI. 158 HARLECH— HAWARDEN During these wars it was thr scene of stirring events, as was mostly the case when anything in the way of arms was stirring at all. At this time, one Dafydd-ap-Ivan-ap-Einion held the place for the Lancasterians, and a deal of trouble he gave Edward IV. and his strong men before it was finally wrested from him. When Lord Herbert, afterwards Earl of Pembroke, who was sent against him, summoned him to surrender, Dafydd-ap-Ivan made answer that he had formerly held a castle in France so long that he made all the old women in Wales talk about it, and he now proposed to hold Harlech Castle until he set all the gossips in France talking about it. He did indeed make a stiff defence of it, and was only compelled to yield at last by the pangs of famine. This famous siege and the honourable capitulation that ended it, gave rise, it is said, to the well-known air, '* The March of the Men of Harlech." During the Civil Wars Harlech was again a focus of turmoil and change, passing more than once into the hands of each party, and being at last surrendered to Colonel .lones of Maes-y-garnedd, the brother-in- law of Cromwell. From the coins, etc., which have from time to time been found at Harlech, it is thought that it may have been a fortified post during the Roman occupation — a possibility of which there can, we think, be little doubt. Reference has been made to the withdrawal of the sea from Harlech. An extensive stretch of sandy dune has thus been laid bare, known as Morfa Harlech, or Harlech Marsh, which, if for no one else, is a favourite place of resort for botanists and golfers. Hawarden (pronounced " Harden "), an old 159 NORTH WALES market town, is 7 m. W. of Chester and 22 m. from Broughton Hall station. It stands on high ground overlooking the Dee, and is a busy and tliriving place. The chief interest connected with it, however, lies in its associations with the late William Ewart Gladstone, who by marriage with a Glynnc came to liave his residence at Hawarden Castle. This noble mansion is a modern erection, albeit in the castellated Gothic of an earlier age. It was built about the middle of the i8th cent., but was altered and added to in the early part of the 19th. The well-wooded park in which it stands is both extensive and picturesque, and is open to the public except during forenoon church on Sundays. The main gates to the castle are oppo- site the Glynne Arms Hotel, at the E. end of the village. In the grounds near the house are the remains of a real old-time castle, dating back to pre-Norman days. Under the Conqueror it came into the possession of Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester ; but after many vicissitudes, on the seques- tration of the estates of the Earl of Derby, subse- quent to the Battle of Worcester, it fell by purchase into the hands of Serjeant Glynn, afterwards Lord Chief-Justice, and has continued in that family ever since. Little remains of the old building save some crumbling fragments round the old circular keep, which is still tolerably complete, a sturdy memorial of the work of Edwardian days. Standing as it does on elevated ground, its summit affords a splendid outlook on the surrounding country, the view including the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey, the mountains to the W., and the great plain of Cheshire. (Population, 6490.) The church (E.E.) has been twice restored, 160 HAWARDEN— HIRAETHOG HILLS the last time (1878) by the famous statesman whose place of prayer it was for so many years, and of whom the E. window Is a memorial. In 19C6 (July 30th) a beautiful memorial of William Ewurt Gladstone and his wife, the work of Sir William Richmond, was unveiled. The monu- ment represents two figures lying in a winged boat ploughing its way through the sea of life. Like the castle, the church occupies a fine position on rising ground, and near it, striking monuments to the man who reared and endowed them, stand St Deiniol's Library and the hostel connected with it, designed to afford rest and therewith studious ease to clergy and others of straitened means. Heiibliis (in the parish of Llangristiolus), 3 m. N.W. of Gaerwen Junction, Anglesey, near which (^.) are the remains of the largest cromlech in Wales, the upright stones of which are 10 ft. in height. At Dinas, W. of Henblas, is another cromlech, with a menhir. Hcngii'it, a seat belonging to the Vaughan family, situated near Cymmer Abbey, about 1 m. N." of Dolgelly, and adjoining the grounds of Nannau. The famous literary collection known as the Hengwrt MSS. was formerly stored here, but was transferred hence to Peniarth (q.v.) for safer keeping. Hcnllan, a village near Trefnant, 3 m. S. of St Asaph, has an interesting old church, of which the oldest portion is a detached square tower standing on higher ground. Hcriri MoJis. See Toiven-y-mur. Htsp-Alyn. See Jlyn. Niraetliog Hills, or Mynydd Hiraethog, a long and rather desolate range of hills in the L 161 NORTH WALES western section of Denbighshire, composed for the most part of Cambrian and Silurian rocks, and devoted chiefly to the pasturage of sheep. Tl;e Holyhrad road traverses its southern slofws. The range, which has its highest points in Moel Eith in ( 1 660 ft. ) and Bronbanog ^i 572_ft.), is the source of many bcaunTul streams, including the Elwy and Alcd, feeders of the Clwyd, and the Alwen, which gives its water to the Dee. Iliniaiit, a vilLige in the picture-que cwm or valley of that name, ih m. S.VV. of Penybont, near the N. end of the tiinnci through which the waters of Lake Vyrnwy make the first 2^ m. of their journey to Liverpool. The river flirnant, whicii tlows througii the cwm, is a tributary of the Tanat. Holt, an ancient borough, 5A m. N.E. of Wrexham, is situated on the Denbighshire bank of the Dee, an old narrow stone bridge over which connects the town with Farndon, in Chethire. The place was formerly of much more importance than at present. Of its Edwardian ca5tlc few traces remain. It was built by Earl Warren, reverted to the Crown under S d w a n i VH. through the attainder of Sir Wra, Stiuley, and saw its share cf the turmoil of the Civil War. The parish church (restored), dedicated to St Chad, is both a fine and a picturesque edifice, dating, like the brid;".', from the 14th cent. The borough is proud of its charter, dated 1410, the gift of Thomas, Pari of Arundel, at that time Constable of the Castle, Holyficad, the l3rj:est and busiest town in Anglesey, is situated on an island off the W. coast, is fome 7 m. long and from i to 3 m. in 1(^2 HIRNANT— HOLYHEAD width, and is connected with the mainland by a causeway li ni. in length. The town owes its importance in the main to its being the ]>ort through which passes the chief passenger tragic to and from Ireland. There is some other business ot a minor sort; but ^he population of the place (10,636) depends for the most part on the harbour and rail- way, wiiich employ thousands of nien, and are a scene ot never-ceasiiig toil and bustle, what with the arrival and departure of trains and the coming and going of steamships, all so thronged with busy and important people that it would seem as though the whole world were on the move. At great national cost the harbour was improved, and by the construction of an immense breakwater, 7860 ft. in length, the exposed bay was converted into a secure huven or harbour of refuge, available for vessels of the largest size, and in all winds and all states of the tide. A ])romenade extends along the breakwater, and is protected by a paiapet on the seaward side. Within this harbour is an inner one, with quays for the arriving and departing boats, and sidings for the convenience of passengers going to or coming from Ireland. The town itself is dull and uninteresting, though the church, dedicated to St Gybi, should prove worthy of a visit. It dates from the 14th century, but is in the main of a later i>eriod ( i 5th and i6th century). Cruciform in character, with nave, aisles, and transept, it has also a square tower with a low truncated spire. A new church, in the Gothic style, was opened in 1S54. W. of the town, and looking down upon it, rises Pen Caer Gybi, or Hoi) head Mountain, 700 ft. high, on which are traces of British and Roman fortifications. From 163 NORTH WALES here was obtained the blocks of stone for building tlie breakwater and pier. The view from the summit includes the Skerries (N.), with their lighthouse, N.W. of Caer Gybi is the North Stack, an isolated rock, where is a coast-guard station. S.W. of this, at the most westerly point of the island, is the islet known as South Stack, separated from the shore by a narrow chasm, which is spanned by a chain bridge, giving easy access to the South Stack lighthouse. Both South and North Stack are well worth a visit, if only to see the caves worn into the rock by the action of the waves. Many of them are of enormous size, and give shelter to myriads of sea-fowl. Indeed, the whole of these r^cky headlands are the haunts of many varieties ( i birds, pigeons, gulls, cormorants, guillemots, razor-bills, herons, and even on the higher crags the lordly peregrine falcon may often be seen. And because they give warning to ships in toggy weather by their hoarse and strident cries, they are not allowed to be shot. Which is as it should be. Hulyici'll (s.), one of the most important towns in Flintshire, v.ith manufacturing and mining in- dustries (coal and lead being found in the vicinity), is situated on rising ground overlooking the estuary of the Dee, i 5 m. N.W. of Chester. It takes its name from the Well of St Winifred, the most copi- ous in the country, estimated in former times to discharge one hundred tons of water per minute, but now reduced to about iv/enty tons. It is very little affected by long droughts or excessive rains (except that in the latter case it shows a slight change of colour), varies but slightly in temperature, and is usually su clear that the minutest object at the 164 HOLYWELL bottom of the basin may readily be seen. In former times it was a noted resort for the cure of bodily disease and infirmity. For long years, how- ever, the repute of tho well, or at least the number of pilgrims to it, greatly fell off, but for some timt ]>nst there hjre been a resurgence of faith in its cura- tive powers, and the number of maimed and halt who resort to it has greatly increased. The "Feast of St Winifred " is celebrated in the Catholic Mission at Holywell in June and November, when some bones of the saint are brought out and ex- hibited to the devout, and between thirty and forty years ago a iiospice was erected for the accommoda- tion of poor pilgrims to the miraculous waters. The well is enclosed in a deep crypt, over which is an elegant chapel built by Margaret, mother of Henry VH. It is of late Perp. work, and exhibits not a few features worthy ot note. The well is the property of the Duke of Westminster, but the Roman Catholics of the ])lacc have for some years past had a lease of it. Much has been done not only to improve the chapel, but to turn the well to A-ic bebt account in the shape of baths (hot and cold, shower and douche, etc.). The story of St Winifred is of the usual pattern of such mediaeval legends. According to the one in question Winifred, v.'ho lived about the beginning of the 7th cent., was sought in marriage by a chieftain named Caradoc. Having taken vows of chastitv she of course refused him, whereupon he tried to take her by force. Winifred fled, pursued by her tormentor, who in his fury slashed off her head with his sword. The decapitated member went bounding down the hill to the church, and on the spot v.here it linally came to rest a spring of 165 NORTH WALES delicious water sprang up. Winifred';, uncle, whfi was orticiating at the church, took the dissevered liead, and in answer to his prayers it was reunited to the iKtdVf and the holy virgin restored to life. She Fur\ived about fifteen years, and having taken the Teil at Gwytherin (q.v.), she died abbess ot that foundation. About 2 m. trom Holyu-ell is the village of l'.jntasa|)'', where is a Franciscan monastery, bebides other Roman Catholic in8titution<, including a con- vent with school and an orphanage, all gathered about a church, built some fifty years ago by the late Harl and Countess of Denbigli. Hope (s.), a village 9 m. S.W. of Chester, to which, as a place of some importance, li!dward the Black Prince gave a charter. Near it is Ho|)e .'unction, v.hencc a line runs to Connah's Quay on the Dee, Hawarden, etc., and (S.) to Wrexham. Horst'shoe Ftill. Sec I.laniysilio. Huw Morus's Chair. Seo Pont-y-Meih'wn. IfubiUe Tower, the, a colun.n crowning the summit of Moel Fammau (q.v.), erected in honour of George III. completing the fiftieth year of his reign. Partly b!own down 1862. Kerry (s.), a pretty village situated at the foot of the Kerry Hills, on the road from Bishop's C.istle to Ne.'/town, and about 3 m. \L. ot the latter. A branch line from Abermule has it- terminus at Kerry Station, i ^ m. E. of the village. The church, partly Norman, restored in 1875, contains a marble monument to Richard Jones, founder of a school here. A curious story is related in connection with this edifice by Giraldus Cambrensis, the annalist. He was at the time (1196) Archdeacon of Brecon, and a dispute 166 HOPE-LITTLl" ORME'S HEAD having arisen between him and the Bishop of St Asai'h as to Episcopal jurisdiction in regard to Kerry, the tu-o came to blows, and the matter was ( nded by a regular melee in the sacred piecincis — the bishop and his party (as miglit be inteired from the sourct of the story) getting the worst of the fray. Kcirj Hills, a vild and somewhat desolate range of mountains S. of Kerry, and together with Clun Forest (q.v.) extending E. as far as Bisliop's Casilc, Kintiul Hall, a little W, of Bodelwyddan and S. of the village of St George, traditionally associated with the famous light between the town of that name and the Dragon. Lavnn Sarah, the, sticich for an extent of 3 /ii. between Aber and Beaumaris, and at low water may be traversed to within a short distance of the Anglesey coast. Liillc Ornie's HkuI forms the E. horn of Orme's Bay, beautifully crescent-shaped, with excellent facilities for boating and fishing. The head has an elevation of about 400 ft. A road to 'Culwyn Bay runs over it, and there is another, io excellent condition, along its base, by means of which its three interesting caves may be reached ; also (E.) an old Tudor hou^e, now a farm, called Penrhyn, nn outer w.ill of which bears the date 1685 and the initials W.P. This place for long years belonged to the Pugh family. They were in poisession in Elizabeth's time, and being jealous Catholics got into serious trouble with their neigh- bours of the reformed faith. I'he story goes that» with other Papis's of the Crcuddyn peninsula, they hatched a plot to exterminate their Protestant neighbours. A day was fi.xed for the awful deed ; 167 NORTH WALEvS but the secret was let out by a domestic whose lover wa< a manservant at Gloddacth near by ; and the Protistant squires, making a rally with their retainer., surrounded the Pcnrhyn hous.-, where was a secret clapel (still disctrnible among the tarm buildings), and demanded that the priest who conducted b-rvice therein sliould at once be given up. The bird, however, had flown, and was only discovered later through the issuin;^ of smoke from one of the Little Orme caves, whence the poor man was taken and summ.irily executed. It is a grim story to be told of a Christian manor house, but another still more sordid attaches to the same dwilling. It it one that affords fitting material for t'ne pen of a Poe, but mutt Iw told here with brevity. At a much later period than tiiat of the alleged Catholic plot Penrhyn came into the hands of two maiden I. dies, whose brother, the heir, went abroad when young, and w.is not heard of a^ain until his sisters had been long in possession, and were loth to give place to a ragged and broken down man who happened to turn up and claim the inheritance. The man showed proof, however — very singular proof — .nnd was thoroughly believed in by the neighlxjurs. But his sisters would have none of him and, in short, retained possession to the end of their days — and that for the simple reason that their brother suddenly disapj>eared, leaving no sign. Neighbours believed that the ladies of Penrhyn had done away with him, openly said so, and kept coldly aloof from them as murderesses. Other evils fell upon them, murrain, loss of crops, and the like, so that finally they died in extreme poverty, and the house came into other hands, when, in a disused lime-pit or cleft of rock, a 168 LITTLE ORME'S HEAD skeleton was discovered — that ot the murdered brother (said the neighbours), whose perturbed spirit, nov. that his bones were fittingly interred, ceased to haunt the place. Lliiin-j-Lliidr, or the Robber's Leap. See Beriuyu. Llanabcr Church, lA m. K. of Barmouth, of which it is the puish church, is a beautiful speci- men of E.E., dating from the 13th cent., and consists ot nave (with clerestory), two side aisles and chancel, with a single lancet for the E. win dow. The pillars, of varied design, are worthy of particular note ; as is likewise the S. doorway, so beautiful in its workmanship. Note also the curious alms-box, with three locks, carved out of a block of oak, and the inscrilxd btone f which lav for a lonii time on the beach) bearing the words CAtLEXTi MoNEDO RtGi (held by some to signify Coelextus, King of Mona), which stands by the N.W. door, 'i'hc church, long in a ruinou.^ condition, was restored in 188 1. Llanadhuiarn, a small village with a fine old church, on the high road from Clynnog to Pwllheli, about 5 ni. N. of the latter, at the head of the pass over the Eitl Mountains (q-v.). Llanarnwu, a village on the Ceiriog, 3 m. beyond Pont-y-Meibion, whence the summit of Cader Fronwen, in the Berwyn Mountains, may be ascended. Remains of earthworks are to be seen in the hill to the N. Llananiuvi in Yale, a village on the Alyn, just before it enters the county of Flint. Its church, dedicated to St Germanus, possesses much to interest; among other objects (in a niche of the outer S. wall) the carveii effigy of a bishop, and a 169 NORTH WALES chandelier bearing a figure of the Vjrjin. The latter is supposed to have been derived trom Vallc Crucis Abbey, as likewise the recumbent figure of a knight (14th cent.), completely armed, with the legend, " Hie jacet GrufTydd ap Llewelyn ap Ynyr." Near the church is a mound which goes by the name of Tomen-y-fardre, Llnnasa, or Llnnasapli, a village lA m. S.E. of Prestatyn station, with a church containing stained glass, said to have been brought from Basingwerk Abbey. Worthy of note, also, are some curious gravestones in the churchyard. Llanbaho, a small village about 3 m. N.W, of Llanerchymedd, Anglesey, with a church con- taining a sculptured slab (ancient) representing St Pa;>o. Llaiibadrig, a village about i m. N. of Cemaes, Anglesey, where is an old church on a cliff over- looking the sea, said to have been founded by St Patrick on his way to Ireland. Ll-aubi'blig, a village i m. S.E. of Caernarvon, where is the mother-church (restored) of that town. It is dedicated to St Pebli;^, and has in the interior some fine monuments. The churchyard affords a fine view of the country round about, and is a favourite resort on that account. Note the stepped battlements of the church. Llanbedr, a village on the Conway (Caernarvon side) about i^ m. S. of Caerhun, and near the confluence of the Dulyn and the Conway. Llmibcdr (s.), a pretty village in Merioneth, some 3 m. S of Harlech, in the picturesque valley of the Artro. In a field near the village is a cromlech, and other similar monuments and memorials arc to be seen in the vicinity. The 170 LLANASA— LLANBERIS station (Pensarn and Llanbedr) is about t m. from the village. Llanhcdrog Bay, a village 4 m. S.W. of Pwllheli, where the mansion and grounds of Glyn- y-Weddw have been converted to public purposes in the form of a People's Palace, with pleasure gardens, a gallery of art. etc. Llaiibcris (s.), one of the most famous villages, grown now almost to the dimensions ot a town, in *he Snowdon region, and a favourite rvsort of those who wish to make acquaintance with Y Wyddfa and its neighbouring giant?. It consists in reality of two villages, the old and the new, 2 m. apart, and lying along the N.W, foot of Snowdon, with the lake? Padarn and Peris bordering them on the N.E. side. The one long main street consists, for the most part, of cottages inhabited by the work- men engaged in the Dinorwic slate quarries (q.v.) on the other side of the lakes and the stream (the Seiont) that connects them, but it includes also many houses of a better class, with hotels, shops, etc. ; and, along the shores of Llyn Padarn and Llyn Peris, some charming villas. (Pop. 2912.) The old village of Llanberis is nearly 2 m. from the L. & N.W.R. station (around which the new part has grown), and is situated at the head of Llyn Peris, near the entrance to the Pass of Llan- beris. Here is the old parish church (restored), dedicated to St Peris, an anchorite who is said to have dwelt here about the middle of the 6th cent. It shows portions of a Perp. character, has an old timber roof (15th cent.), and some remnants oi a screen that are worthy of note. The vv'ell of St Peris, in the vicinity of the church, was for long years held in superstitious reverence for its supposed 171 NORTH WALES healing virtues, and for its reputed power ot reveal- ing future events through the agency of a silver fish v/hich from time to time appeared in its waters. A little E. of Old Llanberis the road to Capel Curig enters the Pais of Llanberis. Llanberis is one of the b.st points from which to ascend to the summit of Snowdon. The distance is about 5 m., which, for those who count distance by heart-throbs, may be reduced to nil by taking the electric tram line, that now follows very closely the old track. This starts near the Victoria Hotel, and, passing through a wood and by the waterfall Ceunant Mawr (60 ft.), gradually ascends the slope of Llechog or Lechwcdd-y-Ry, v/hich overlooks Cwm Brv/ynog, one of the five great glacier valleys descending from Y Wyddfa. At the head of the cwm is the Llyn du'r Arddu, lying at the foot of a stupendous rock, well-nigh perpendicular, named Clogv.vn Du'r Arddu. The ascent of Lechwedd display? wider and v/ider views of the Vale of Llanberis and the country as far as Caernarvon. From the top of this bold shoulder the road runs S.W. to a well, whence the highest point of Snowdon, now full in view, is about a mile distant. The path now becomes more steep, and somewhat erratic, albeit tolerably smooth. Passing nov/ under the second peak, connected by a ridge with the higher, a few more minutes suffices to land the climber on the topmost peak of Y Wyddfa. Only from the summit can one properly note the curious building up of Snowdon, so to speak, in ridges, between which are great chasms or cwms, each with its lake or tarn, some with more than one. The sight on a fine day is wonderful in the extreme, and still more wonderful when, like 172 LLANBERIS— LLANDDWYWE Wordsworth, the spectator has the good fortune to see, at sunrise, a hundred heights islanded in an ocean of mist. No less striking is the distant view, which, in a clear atmosphere, includes not only the mountain giants around Snowdon, the Menai and its bridges, the Great and Little Ormes and tlie sea, but the Isle of Man, the Cumberland hills, Caer- narvon Bay as far as Barniuuth, and the bold ridges of Cader Idris. Llaiibryniiiair (s.), a small village on the Twy- myn and a favourite resort of anglers, 2 m. from the station of the same name on the line from Newtown to Machynlleth. There are several lead mines in the parish, a very large one, which is, moreover, noted as being the birthplace of Dr Abraham Rees, editor of the Encyclopedia that bears his name. Ncwydd FynydJog, to the E., is noteworthy for its tliree stone circles, the most perfect of which is named Yr Allor (the Altar). Llaiufairi<.'g, the former parish church of Harlech, 50 ft. in length and in a ruinous condition (not Jong since given a roof by the P. A.M. Society), is situated opposite the N. end of Mochras Island, 2 m. S. of Harlech. Llanddona, a village picturesquely situated on Red Wharf Bay (E. coast of Anglesey), 4 m. from Beaumaris. Bwrdd Arthur, the largest camp on the island, i m. distant. Llandd'uyic'e, a village 5 m. N. of Barmouth, on the road to Harlech. The church, a little distance from the village, contains some interesting monu- ments of the Vaughans of Cors-y-Gedol. Near it the Ysgethin falls into the sea. In the parish are several cromlechs, including one known as Arthur's Quoit (Coetan Arthur), on the upper slab of which 173 NORTH WALES arc indentations popularly said to have been made by his fingers when he threw it from Moelfre. Llaiuit'C'u'V)!, a village in Merionitli, about 3 111. S.W. of Maentwrog, situated on high ground midway between the two Lakes Llyn Tecwyn- uchaf (highest) and Llyn Tccwyn-isaf (lowest), the two being about a mile apart. The whole district round about Llandccwyn is extremely interesting, and though off the beaten track, worth visiting. The outlook from the village churchyard is exceedingly fine, including the Caernarvonshire mountains, the intervening vale, and Tremadoc Bay. Lhvidigai, a "model village" at the entrance to Penrl yn Park, 2A m. II. of Bangor. The church, standing on a wooded eminence, contains some interesting old and modern monumvnts, includ- ing one to Lord and Lady Penrhyn by Westmacott. The memorial (mural) to Archbishop Williams (of York) is famous. (See Section \ IIL of Introduction.) LlandigUi, a village .near the source of the Alyn, 8^ m. S.L. of Ruthin, with a "miraculous" well, once noted for its cures of epilepsy, but more notable for the extraordinary way in which they were, or were supposed to be, effected. Llandiuam (s.) a village 2i m. S. of Moat Lane Station, on the line from Newtown to Aber- ystwyth, picturesquely planted on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Severn. Near by is Celn Carnedd, a hill on which is an extensive old-time camp or fortification commanding the upper vale of the Severn and likewise that of the Carno. LlandrlUo-yn-Rhos (called also Rhos-on-Sea) I m. W. of Colwyn Bay. It takes its name from 174 LLANDECWYN— LLANDUDNO St Trillo's Well on the road to Little Orme's Head. About a mile inland from the village is the church of Llandrillo, claimed to be one of the oldest in Wales (in the main Perp. with an E.E, font). A few minutes' walk distant are ruins said to be the remains of the palace of Maclgwn Gwyncdd, a British king of the 6th cent., while on an emin- ence near, called Bryn Euryn, may be traced an early encampment, possibly of that chieftain. Llandrillo (s.), a village on the Dee, 5 m. S. ot Corwen, at the foot of Cader Fronwen (2564 ft.), one of the highest peaks of the Berwyns, whicli may be conveniently ascended from this place. There is good fishing in the Dec here, especially for grayling. Llaiidriiiio, a village on the N. bank or the Severn, 10 m. W. of Shrewsbury on the road to Llandysilio, with a church having a Norman arch and font. The carved pulpit is likewise worthy of note. Llandudno (s.), seated near the base of Great Orme's Head, and noted for its beautiful bay and equable climate, occupies the middle portion of the Creuddyn Peninsula, and has a population of 10,469. It takes its name from the ancient church of St Tudno, a tiny edifice perched up among lonely rocks on the N. side of Orme's Head and dating, so far as the original foundation is concerned, from the 7th cent., when the saint built an oratory on the spot ; the main body of the existing edifice (to which was subsequently added a Perp. chancel) following four or five centuries later. Fifty years ago Llandudno was but a tiny village with a couple of inns ; now it is a place with well on to ten thousand inhabitants, v/ith handsome streets, fine hotels and shops, a pier, a drive unequalled almost in extent 175 NORTH WALES for the benutiful views it discloses, and all the other necessary accompaniments of a populnr water- ing-place. This rapid growth it owes, in the first instance, to the opening of the railway from Chester to Holyhead ; and in the next, to its almost unrivalled advantages as a sea-bathing and health resort. Its smooth shelving sands are splendid ; it is well protected from easterly winds by Ormc's Head, and it is furtlier said in its praise that the Snowdonian mountains are in the habit of dra. 'ng up the rain-clouds to themselves, and so sparing the residents from the inconvenienct- of much wet weather. There is. of course, a good deal of truth in the assertion, although Llandudno has its rainy days all the «ame. Still, however much rain may fall, the ground soon dries ; there is ever a breeze a-blowing, and the place is undoubtedly bracing, besides affording a mild winter resort, equal, 'tis said, to Torquay, with less of moisture. Not the least of the advantages enjoyed by Llan- dudno is that of itj convenient position, which makes it a good centre from which to make acquaintance with so much that is interesting in that part of N. Wales, Conway (whose bay is, as it were, at its back door), Bmgor, Caernarvon, Beaumaris, the mountains, a thousand things and places of beauty, in short. Of these, not a few are in the immediate neighbourhood — the caves, ff)r instance, in the face of the promontory, the ruins of Gogarth Abbey (q.v.), St Tudno's Church, etc. Of the latter, a portion of the W. wall i^ held to have formed part of the church built in the iith or I2th cents., the rest of the old work belonging to the 15th cent. In 1839 a storm carried away the roof, and did so much other damage to the building that no 176 LLANDUDNO— LLANDYSILIO effort was made to repair it ; a new edifice, dedicated to St George, being built up in its stead in a more convenient position for tlie villagr folk. Thus it remained until, some fifteen or sixteen years later, a Birmingham gentleman (Mr H. Reece) had it thoroughly restored. It is but a liny affair (67 ft. by l6:V interior measurement) with little of noteworthy about it except an ancient circular font, once carried away and used as a pump trough, and two incised coffin lids of the 13th cent. Llandnlas (s. ), about 6 m. W. of Rhyl and *3A N.W. of Abergele, a pretty village at the mouth of a glen opening on to the Irish Sea, with limestone works and kilns. Llandulas is siippobed to be the place where Richard II., of unhappy memory, was betrayed by the Earl of Northumberland into the h/inds of Bolingbrokc, his rival to the throne. Seeing himself suddenly surrounded by a troop of armed men, he tried to get away ; but Percy, seizing the bridle of his horse, had him taken to Rhuddlan Castle, u hence he w is removed to Berkeley Castle, and there put to death. Llandicrog (s.), 5 m. S. of Caernarvon, on the road to Pwllheli, distinguished by a most beautiful church, rebuilt by Lord Northbrook (at a cost, it is said, of ^40,000), with a private chapel in the chancel, in which are preserved some of the old Wynne monuments. Llanddyfna)!, a village 1^ m. W. of Pentraeth (Anglesey), with an interesting church (restored), having a sculpture of the Crucifixion over the door. A maenhir stands in an adjoining field. Llaiidysilio : on a small islet in Menai Strait, near the Suspension Bridge, on the Anglesey side, connected with the shore by a causeway, is the M 177 NORTH WALES little church of that name (restored), said to be the oldest in Anglesey. Llandysilio, a village on the Dee, 2 m. N.W. of LIan_t;ollcn, and about i ni. distant from Vaile Crucis Abbi.y, has an interesting old church (re- stored), with an old-style wooden roof. There is another Lland) silio on the Vyrnwy, a few miles from its junction with the Severn, with a modern church by Street, replacing a 17th cent, edifice. Llattigryii, a village in the Dysynni Valley, 4^ m. from Tov/yn. The church, in good repair, contains a screen of E. Perp. work and a highly carved rood-loft, said to be one of the most perfect in the country (lacking only the cross). The altar (modern) is formed of a slab of slate on stone pedestals. A little N. of Llancgryn is the Wynne mansion of Peniaith, possessing a splendid library, comprisin;^ the famous Hengwrt Collection of Welsh MSS. See Hfnzivrt. Llauiliaii, 3 m. S. of Colwyn Bay. The church, with interesting carvings, is a conspicuous object on a hill above the village. Near it, in the vale below, is the once famous or infamous, Ffvnnon Elian, or Cursing Well, tlic dread of which in times past is said to have terrified many persons to death. Llanelltyd (so called from its church dedicated to St Illtyd), 2 m. N.W. of Dolgelly, is beautifully situated at the point where the Mawddach enters the vale that bears its name, offering a striking con- trast to the narrow " clough," or glen, through which it had just been Howing. Close to the village the Mawddach is crossed by a fine stone bridge, often painted by artists. The church contains several iiileresting monuments. Llnncugan, 7 m. S.W. of Pwllheli, overlooking 178 LLANDYSILIO— LLANFAGLAN Porth Nigel, or Hell's Mouth, vvitli a fine old church (resiored), containing a richly-carved rood- screen, thought by some to be the most ornamental in the principality. The church bells are said to have been brought from Bardsey. Llaiunliyiiiedd (s,), in the centre of the island of Anglesey, on the line from Gacrwen to AniKvch, v.ith the wells of St Seiriol and St Kybi a mile or so li. of the station. Here the two holy men used to meet, as Mattliew Arnold reminds us, in the "bare mist of Anglesey." The church (re- stored) has one or two interesting features, and notably a bell-gable fitted on to the E. parapet. To the people of these parts the place is chiefly noted for its cattle fairs. LliDierfyl, a village on the Banw, in Mont- gomeryshire, taking its name from St Erfyl, the patron saint of the parish church, which contains several interesting mementos of the past, including a Tudor communion table, a carved shrine, and some painted panels. In the ciiurchyard is a Romano-British inscribed stone, ai'.d on a height overlooking the village, named Garddeii, is a circular camp, girdled by a rampart, enclosing an area of some seventy yards. Llaufiii's, a village about 2 m. N. of Beaumaris, memorable as the scene of a battle fought between the Welsh and the Saxons (a.d. 819). Llanfaes Priory (or Friary) formerly stood near the village, but no trace of it is now to be seen. IJanfaghvi, 1 m. S.W. of Caernarvon. Over the entrance into an old and disused church there was a stone, 5 i''t, long and 15 in. wide, bearing the inscription "Fili Lovernii Anatemori." It was removed into the interior in 1854. There are also 179 NORTH WALES two olH rl■0««'»l^ cfr>n»>« in »Kr> pnrrli on the N. siHp of the church. Llanfnir Station, the first after passing the Britannia Tubular Bridge into Anglesey. Near the village and above the bridge in the direction of Caernarvon is the colossal statue of Lord Nelson, designed by Lord Clarence Paget and executed at Plas Llanfair, his residence. L-I.infair (St Mary's) is a somewhat common name in Wales, and so has generally an additional name to distinguish it from others; but to this AnglcscyLlanfair, when given in full, is attached a set of syllables which to the ordinary Saxon louk like " printers' pie," and would hardly come into a line of this print. Four m. N. of Llanfair is Plas Penmynydd, noted as having belonged to the royal house of Tudor, and reputed to have been the birthplace of Henry VH.'s grandfather. Llanfair Caercinion, a clean little town in the pretty Caereinion Valley, through which Hows the beautiful Einion stream, fed, a little above Llanfair, by the Banu ; about 7 m. W. of Welshpool, on the road to Dinas Mav.ddwy, the Einion joins the Vyrnwy at Meifod, 4 m. N. of Llanfair. There is good fishing in all three streams, and Llanfair is, in con- sequence, a favourite resort of anglers. The parish church is thought to have been an offshoot from Meifod. Little of the ori^in;il edifice, iiowever, remains, except the open oak roof of nave and chancel and the S. door. The efHgy of a knight, recumbent in chain armour, is worthy of note. A branch line from Welshpool .is opened in 1903. Llanfair Dy§ryn Clwyd (s.), a charmingly situated village 2 m. S. of Ruthin, on the road to Wrexham, with an old church containing a 14th cent. 180 LLANFIHANGEL TYN SYLWY altar-tomb and some ancient stained glass. There is another Llanfair, i m. S. of Harlech, with a station on the line from that place to Barmouth. Near it is the little estuary of the Artro. The chief thing of interest about Llanfair is the beautiful view it affords looking back towards Harlech. Llaii/airfcchan (s.), a pleasant watering-place on Beaumaris Baj', about midway between Penmaen- mawr and Aber. Llaufair-MethafarneitJiaf, between 5 and 6 m. W. of Llanerchymcdd (Ang. ), the birthplace of Goronwy Owen, a famous Welsh poet. The churchyard contains a mutilated stone cross. Llanfairtalhaiarn, a village delightfully situated on the R. bank of the Elwy, 5 m. S. of Aber- gele. Two m. below the Elwy is joined by the Aled. In the churchyard repose the remains of John .lones (" Talhaiarn "), known as the Welsh Burns. The place is a favourite resort of anglers, LlaiifccJiclI, a village 3 m. S.W. of Amlwch (Ang.), with valuable quarries of serpentine marble. It has an interesting little church, and there arc some noteworthy antiquities in the vicinity, including three pillar stones or meini-hirion. Llanfiliaiigcl-y-Peunnut, a village at the head of the Dysynni Valley, about 2 m. from the lower end of Talyllyn. Llanfihangcl is a good point from which to make the ascent of Cader Idris, the distance therefrom to the summit being about Llanfihangel Tyn Sylwy, on the E. coast of Anglesey, ih m. W. of Penmon. It lies at the foot of Bwrdd Arthur or Arthur's Round Table (q.v.). The small church here has a movable pulpit. There arc two other Llanfihangcls in 181 NORTH WALES Anglesey, both on or near the line from G.er- wcn to Amlwch. One is Llanfihangel Ysgeitiog, immediately E. of Malldraeth Marsh (drained to some extent by the tidal river from Llangefni to Malldraeth Bog) ; the other is Llanfiliangel Tre'r Btirdd, some miles further N., and a little to the E. of Llanerchymedd. Has an early cross in the churchyard. LlnnfyJlin (s. ), a small market-town in Mont- gomerysliirc, ]>lca«antly situated on tliC banks ot the Cain, a tributary of the Severn, 8 m. W. of Llany- mynech (Salop), and the terminus of the line from that ]>lace. Population 1^)32. From the fact that Roman coins have been found here, it is supposed to have been a Roman station. The church, an uninteresting i8th cent, structure, is noted for its I)cal of bells, said to be the sv.-etest toned in the county. Llanfyl'in is proud of a charter given to it by Lleuclyn ap Gruffydd [temp. Edward H. ). It is noted, too, for its ale, respecting v/hich there is a local proverb that says, "Old ale fills Llanfyllin with young widows." Llangadfan, a pleasant village on the Banw, 2 m. W. ot Llancrfil, named after St Cadfrm, to whom the church is dedicated. On the opposite side of the river, on the road to Dinas Mawddwy, is the famous old inn named Cann Office, a favour- ite resort of anglers. Close to Llangadfan the Nant y Eira, having its rise in the hills S., unites with the Banw. Llangadii'nladr, a small village 2 m. E. of Aberffraw (Anglesey), and within ^ m. of Bodoi- gan Stat, on the Holyhead line, with an Early Perp. church, consisting of nave and chancel, 1^2 LLANFYLLIN— LLANGOLLEN with N. and S. chapels (1660). Over the S. door of the nave is a stone with a Latin inscrip- tion (7th cent.). The church contains also a beautiful stained glass window of three lights. LlaiigcdwiUy a vill.ige on the river Tanat, about 6 ni. W.'of Llanymynec'i, on the road to Lake Vyrnwy, famous as having been the home of Owen Glendower, for pauiculars of which the reader would do well to refer to Borron's '• Wild Wales" (chaps. Ixv. and Ixvi.). Llaiigcf):i (s.), a small town pleasantly situated on the Anglesey Central Railway, and watered by the Cefni, which is here crossed by two bridges. The Vale of Cefni is noted for its fertility and the prosperity of it; farmers. One mile distant is the old mansion (now a farmhouse) of Tre- garnedd (q-v. ). Lliiii^clytmi Chuiwh, 3 m. from Pcnmacnmawr (to the S.E.), is one of the oldest and rudest churches in Wales (said to have been built in or about 1350). It stands at a height of 927 ft. above the sea, and is well-nigh shut in by mountains. On Cerrig-3-ddinas, N.E. of the church, are to be seen traces of ancient fortifications. The old cliurch may be reached either from Pen- maenmnwr or from Caerhun. Llangeniiew. See Elwy. Llangybi (s.), a village on the Caernarvon and Afonwen line — a good point from which to reach Yr Eifl (the Rivals). There is a mineral spring there. LhingoUen (s.), a town of some 3249 inhabit- ants, situated on the Dee, here a broad though shallow stream, crossed by a 14th cent, bridge, noted for its clean and tidy streets, and for the NORTH WALES idyllic beauty of its surroundings. A century ago, when the greater part of the scenery of Wales was still regarded as "savage," I langollen was cele- brated for its "loveliness." Ruskin says of it — and he only reiterates in more charming phrase what others had said before : " The whole valley, when I once got up past the work^ (whatever the accursed business of them), on the noble hillside seemed to me entirely lovely in its gentle wildness, and struck me more because our Westmoreland ones aie mere clifts between disorderly humps of rock ; but the Vale of Llangollen is a true valley between ranges of grandly formed hills, peculiar above Vale Crucis in the golden mosaic of gorse on their emerald turf, where we have nothing but heath and ling. The Dec itself is a quite perfect mountain stream, and the \illage of Llangollen, when I first knew it fifty years ago, ore of the most beautiful and delightful in Wales or anywherf' else." The principal part of the town lies on the S. side of the river, whose turbulent v/aters often (until prevented by self-acting sluices) rose several feet in a few hours, occasioned by a S.W. wind blowing over Bala Lake. The bridge, formed of four irregular pointed arches (to v.hich one was added for the railway, on the N. side, to pass under), was long included among the Seven Wonders of Wales. It was built about the middle of the i4tli cent, by the Bishop of St Asaph, and was a simply beautiful structure until widened in 1873 (^nd added to by the railway). The view from it, both up and down stream, is very delightful. The town itself presents nothing of special im- portance. White houses with slate roofs are a 184 LLANGOLLEN chief characteristic. It lias a town-hall of some pretensions, a number of good shops (mainly in Castle vStreet), and a church (dedicated to St Collen), which, though chiefly modern, has two or three ft^ituri-^ of antiquarian interest. Its oak roof, said to have come from Valle Crucis Abbey, is exceedingly fine ; it has some good stained glass, and a noteworthy S.^V. door (Dec), near which is to be seen a triangular monument, marking the graves of the one-time famous " Ladies of Llan- gollen." and their faithful friend and attendant, Mary Carryl. The ladies in question were L>ady Hleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, who in I77y took up their abode at Plas Newydd, and there, after an exceptional friendship of fifty ycais. died, the one in 1829, the other in 1H30. The) were peculiar old ladies, greatly famed in their day, and visited by all the celebrities who passed that way. Words- worth, among others, did them the honour ot a call, and annoyed them by referring to their abode as a " low-roofed cot " — '• Faithful to a low-rooled cot. On Deva's banks ye have abode so long, Sisters in love, a love allowed to climb, Even on this earth, above the reach of time." They affected the Welsh costume of the time (with an added touch of masculinity), and struck most strangers as thev did Mathews the actor (the elder), who thus describes them as seen in the Oswestry Theatre : '• Oh, such curiosities I I was nearly convulsed. I could scarcely get on for the first ten minutes after my eye caught them. As they are rented there is not one point to distinguish them from men ; the dressing and powdering of the 185 NORTH WALES hair ; their well-starched neck-cloths ; the upper part of their habits, which thcv always wear, even at a dinner-party, made precisely like men's coats ; and regular black beaver hats. They looked exactly like two respectable superannuated old clergymen." Borrow give^ some interesting particulars of them ("Wild Wales," chap. li.). It should be said that, so far as Llangollen's industries are concerned, its business activities centre in the production of slate, flannel, and beer, to which may be added that of catering for visitors, who in the season bring much gribt to the mill. Of late years the place has greatly increased on the N. side of the Dee, where many modern villas have been built. There, carried along an embankment, is the Ellesmerc Canal (which starts from Berwrn, 2 m. W.). As already indicated, the surroundings of Llan- gollen are very beautiful, although somewhat tame in comparison with the more mountiinous scener) of Caernrtrvonshirc and Merioneth. The most notable object in the immediate neighbourhood (N.) is the range of cliffs known as tlie Eglwyseg Rocks, with its connected eminence of Dinas Bran and its casfli- (q.v.). S. of the Dee, a favourite report is Moel-y-Gcraint (1068 ft.), popularly known as Barber's Hill, from the unfounded talc that a Llangollen barber was gibbeted there for the murder of his wife. The view from the summit is exceedingly fine, including the ])caks ot Snowdnnia. On the way to the top enchanting glimpses are obtained of the Vale of Llangollen, with the Canal Viaduct, and of Valle Crucis. Lla)is[uyi((, a village delightfully situated in the Vale of the Wye, and a good point from which to 186 LLANGURIG— LLANIDAN ascend Plinlimnion. The church (restored by Mr Lloyd of Clochfacn, author of the " History of Powvs Fadog ") contains interesting modern windows. Llangwvfaii, i singular little church (E. Perp.), situated on a small island on the S. coast of Angle- sey (W. of Abcrffraw Bay), and connected with the mainland by a narrow causeway, which at high water is often submerged, and ^o the regular per- formance of service interfered with. Ll(xngy})i (s.), a village about 2 J m. N. of Afonwen, with a station on the line between that place and Caernarvon, the nearest for Yr Eifl. Llatigynog (8.),a village plea'^antly situated on tlic Tanat, at its junction with the Rhiwai th, about 4 m. W. of Lianrhaiadr-yn-niochnant. It gets its name from the British sa'nt Cynog, who suffered martyrdom in the 5th cent. In the range of hills lying between the Tanat and the Rhaiadr (which unite near Llanrhaiadr) are some ricli lead mines, notably that of Craig-y-mwn, which was discovered in 1692, and for forty years yielded the Powys family an annual revenue of ^,20,000. Then an inrush of water stopped the workings, but after a while it was taken over by a company and success- fully worked, l^his mine is about 2 m. from Llan- gvnog; nearer the village are other mines, also some productive quarries of blue slate. The T;inat, which f^ows through a beautiful vale for many miles, is noted for its tine trout. The Tanat Valley line via Llynclys and Llanymynech terminates here. Llaiiidan, a village on the Anglesey side of Menai Strait, about 3 m. N. of Caernarvon, in- teresting as having within a short radius many Druidic and other remains. 187 NORTH WALES Llanidloes (s.), a busy little market-town, wiih a population of 3769, situated on the Severn, which is here joined by the Clywcdog, and on the Mid- Wales Railway. It is one of the chief centres of the Welsh tlannel manufacture. The only object of special interest in the town — though the con- fluence of the two streams near the bridge will repay a visit — is the old church, dedicated to St Idloes, which is one of the most characteristic structures of the kind in Wales. The nave and aisle are separated by pointed arches, the piers of which have delicately carved capitals. A similar description of adornment characterises the oak roof, which is said to have come from the Abbey of Cwm Hir in Radnorshire. Tiie finishing-off of llie hammer-beams is particularly worthy of note, as is also the old tower. There are several places of interest within an easy walk of the town. Some 2 A m. N.E. is Llan Ebyr, a small lake partly surrounded by woods, abounding in trout, perch, and pike. About the same distance N.W. are the Van lead mines, once famous, while on the Van Hill above them (1580 ft.) is an old British camp. In parts the valley of the Clywedog is exceedingly pretty. Llanitstyn, a small village about 2I m. N.W. of Beaumaris, with an \L. Perp. church, chiefly interesting because of its 1 2th cent, font and an inscribed slab of the 14th cent. — a memorial, as is thought, of the patron saint, les'yn. Lhuivhaiadr (s.), a village in the vale of Clwyd, 2| m. S. of Ruthin and i m. from the station of the same name. Its church (restored) is famous for its beautiful stained glass window (15th cent.) representing the Root of Jesse. It is in excellent 188 LLANIDLOES— LLANRHYCHWYN prpo^rvatinn, which is explained by the fact that it was found buried in an oak chest in the churchyard, placed there, as is supposed, during the Civil Wars to keep it from the hands of the destroyer. Trad - tion says it was brought from Basingwark Abbey ; but a more credible account is that it was paid for out of the votive offerings of persons who had benefited from the miraculoub well of Ffynnon St Ddyfnog, near the church. The chest in which the window (E.) wis found — to be seen in the church — is" worth noting, as is likewise the timber roof. In the churchyard are several curious and interesting monuments. LliDirJuiiiulr-vn-Mocliitniit (s.), a village at the mouth of the picturesque valley of the Mochnant, through which flows the Rhaiadr, an affluent of the Tanat. It is on the Tanat\'allev Railway connecting Oswestry, vij Llanymynech, with Llanrhaiadr and Llangynog. 4^ m. N.W. is the famous waterfall of Pistyll Rhaiadr, the loftiest and most picturesque in N. Wales (q.v.). The church (restored) pre- sents little of special interest save an old font and a monumental stone bearing a cross. Dr Morgan, bishop of LlandafF and then of St Asaph, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was for a time incumbent here. LhiiirJiiiddf a small village about li^ m. E. of Ruthin, uith an ancient church (restored) con- taining several old-time monuments, notably one of the 1 6th cent., to John Thelwall of Bathafarn and his wife, with their fourteen children, who are represented kneeling behind them. Llanrhychu'yit CJiiiirh, at the mountain village of the same name, 2^ m. N.W. of Llanrwst Stat., is locally known as I.'ewelyn's Old Church. It 189 NORTH WALES has been described as " one ot the rudest and most primitive " edifices of the kind, and it certainly is all that, having an interior length of but 40 ft., and being as regards walls, windows, and roof of very primitive design and construction. The walls are extremely thick, the roof timbers rough and unlike anything else of the sort usually met with, and quite as rude, if not as rough, is the old oak double- panelled door (evidently coeval with the roof). It is a double-aisled structure, the N. aisle being un- doubtedly the older. Speculation is at .1 loss as to its age. Tliere is, hov.ever, a rectangular font ot the type usually assigned to the 8th cent., and this may approximately date the church. Tradition says that Llewelyn-ap-Iorwerth, who had a re- sidence at Trcfriw, (q.v.), used to attend service here until his wife complained of the distance, when he had a church specially built at that place. IJtinr'U'sl (s.), an old-fashioned niarket-tcvD f population 251';) on tlic Denbighshire side of the Conway, 4 m. N. of Bettv,s-y-coed, was formerly noted as the v/ool market of Wales, and earlier still for the manufacture of Welsh harps. It con- sists in the main of one long street, grey and still, except on market and fair days, when it shov/s life and colour enough. Its old church stands on the bank of the river, a little aside from the High Street and near the bridge, built by Inigo Jones (1636). Formerly dedicated to St Grwst, it dates from the 15th cent., when it took the place of an older one. It contains some old and interest- ing monuments, and has a richly carved screen and roodioft, said formerly to have belonged to Maenan Abbey. In the S. transept is the Gv.ydir chapel, 190 LLANRWST— LLANSANTFFRAID erected (1634) by Inigo Jones for Sir Richard Wynne, to whom there is a monument (1649) containing a long pedigree of the Wynnes, tracing the family from Owen Gwynedd. Among the other monuments are five brasses, each presenting a portrait of one of tlie Wynne family ; also the stone coffin of Llewelyn tlie Great, transferred in the first place from the old tomb at Aber Conway to Maenan Abbey, when thatestablishmentwasmoved in Edward I.'s time, and from Maenan to the Gwydir chapel at or soon after the Dissolution. A still more notable monument is that of Howel Coetmore, a former owner of the lands hereabout, who fought at Poitiers at the head of a iiundredmen of Denbigh, and died later figliting in Flanders. Note also the curious sculptured stone let into the churchyard wall representing the Lamb of God. At Llanrwst are shown the remains of Plas Isaf, the one-time house of William Salesbury, the first translator of the New Testament into Welsh. Llansdiiiuiii. See ^i//«/. Llaiisantffnud Glyii Coii'a'dy (s.). See G/yn Conway. LJausantffraid Glyn Ceiriog, a pretty village on the Ceiriog stream, 6 m. W. of Chirk, Den- bighshire, with slate and stone quarries, is the terminus of the Glyn Valley tramway from Chirk, and a favourite resort of anglers for the trout fishing in the Ceiriog. The Ceiriog Valley is notable as the scene of a battle ( 1 165) in which the forces of Henry II. were defeated by the Welsh under Ov/en Gwynedd. Llansnnt^'raid (s.), a village in the valley of the Vyrnwy, on the railway from Oswestry to Llan- fvllin, via Llanymynech, much frequented bv NORTH WALLS anglers. The cliurcli (dedicated to St Ffraid) contains beveral interesting details of architecture, including a Norm, font, a Dec. ogee window, and some remnants of carved woodwork. Noteworthy also is the curious wooden steeple. There is another Llansanttfraid on the N. bank of the Dee, not far from Carrog Stat., about 2 m. E. of Corwen. Llantysilio, a little village beautifully situated on the N. side of the Deo, 2 m. N.W. of Llangollen, in the little church of which is a monument to the late Helen Faucit, erected by her husband, Sir Theodore Martin, whose resi- dence, Bryn Tysilio, is on the hill above, over- looking the artificial cascade, where the Dee supplies water to the Ellesmi-re Canal, known as the Horseshoe Fall. LlanKWchHyii (s. ), a village at the southern end of Lake Bah, with an interesting church, in which is the figure of a knight in armour. It is 5 m. to Bala by the N.W. shore of the lake, and 6 by the S.E. shore. The river Dee has its rise in the parish of Llanuwchllyn. Llmncddyii. Tiie old village of that name now lies at the bottom of Lake Vyrnwy (q.v. ). In its place a new church, with vicarage, and a few houses were built near the dam. The church was opened in 1888. LlatiycU, the parish chi-rch of Bala, about i m. from the town, on the W. side of the lake, is chiefly interesting because in its beautifully-situated graveyard lies the remains of "Charles of Bala," one of the founders of the Bible Society, of the Rev. Evan Lloyd .Tones of Fron, a once popular poet, and others. 192 LLANTYSILIO— LLEDR Llan-y-Mawddivy, a quiet little village on the road from Bala to Dinas Mawddwy, 14 m, from the former place. In private ;;round8 here, on the Pumrhyd stream, are two picturesque falls, known by the name of the village ; the hi'^her makes a fall of 80 ft. The village is about 4 m. N.E. of Dinas Mawddwy. Llatiyiiiynech, an important railway junction just over the Shropshire border. The village is prettily situated on rising ground above the Vyrnwy. A branch line of the Cambrian Railway runs hence to Llanfyllin (q-v.). A short branch to Blodwell .Tunction connects it also with the Tanat Valley line to Llangynog (q-v. ). Llaiiystiiiiulivy, a pretty little village 2 m. W. of Criccieth, at the junction of the Dwyfach and Dwyfawr (or Dwyfor), with a picturesquely situ- ated modern church. Lla'tcllecJi Range. See Introduction, Section II. Llech Idris, a large upright stone, 10 ft. high, about 3 m. N. of the waterfill, Rhaiadr Mawddach, reached by an old Roman road. Close by is the I5edd Porius ("the grave of Porius"), marked by an inscribed stone, thought to date from the 6th cent. Gibson, the editor of Camden, makes the inscription : porius hic in tumulo jacit homo PLANUS ruiT. Lledr, the, a tributary of the Conway, which it joins about li m. above Bettws-y-coed, has its source in Llyn Edno, takes then a N.E. direction, watering one of the most singular and romantic valleys in the Principality. In its course it passes Dolwvddelan Castle, whose small remains occupy the peaked summit of a craggy knol! on the N. side of the river. The scenery at this point is N 193 NORTH WALES highly romnntic. N.W. of the ri\er the perpen- dicular front of Moel Siabod rears its lofty head, and the valley seems shut in by its girdle of mountains. A little farther down the stream passes beneath a bridge into a tiny plain in which stands the church of Dolwyddelan and the straggling cottages of the little village. The Lledr proceeds hence in a tranquil stream until, rushing furiously down a rocky steep under the wooden oridge at Pont-y-pant, it forms a number of broken cascades in its descent. From this point its course, until it joins the Conway, is amid a succession of rocks. Llethr, a peak N. of the Llawllech range, which runs up from Barmouth, about i ^ m. N. of Diphwys (in which the above range ends). Height, 2475 ft. Lh'VH Promontory, the, of Caernarvonshire stretches in a S.W. direction from the EitI Moun- tains to Pen-y-Cil. It is marked by numerous hills and woods, but for the most part appears tame compared with the wildncss and grandeur of the Snowdonian highlands. IJithfaen, a village 4 m. N.E. of Nevin (Lleyn Promontory), on the road to Llanaeihaiarn, whence the Rivals may be conveniently ascended. Lloyd's Pulpit. See Ffestiniog. Lliiguy, the, a tributary of the Conway, starts from a small lake called Ffynnon Llugwy, which lies in a deep cwm E. of Carnedd Dafydd. It takes its course S. by a narrow channel directly opposite to the rugged Tryfan, and not far from Llyn Ogwen, but upon reaching the vale turns E. After a few miles it makes a short turn S., and then, rushing through a bridge of one arch, it reaches Capel Curig, with its bridge of two arches and backed (S.) by lofty Siabod. Here are the 194 LLETHR— LLYFNANT VALLEY two small Mynibyr lakes, through which Hows the Gwryd to the Llugwy. Passing from Cape! Curig in an easterly direction, the Llugwy is soon shut in by precipitous rocks, and in about a mile forces itself through u narrow cleft where, hliooting under Pont-y-Cyfyng, a bridge of one arch, it foams down a rapid steep in broken cascades to a depth of lOO ft. Meadows follow, and some delightful scenery, after which the Llugwy becomes more rapid and tumultuous, and plunging over a ledge of rocks, forms the Swallow Fall (Rhaiadr- y-Wcnnol), notable for width and volume rather than heioht. Arrived at the bottom of the descent, it roars over huge Iwuldcrs that obstruct its path, while its banks on either side arc shaded with foliage. Again a stretch of charming scenery ensues, and then, amid rocks and stones, it makes its way to Bcttws-y-coed, where, dashing under the creeper-clad bridge of Pont-y-pair, it loses itself in the Conway. Llwyngwern (a station on the Cambrian line), ^ m. N. of Machynlleth. Llwyngi^'ril (s.), a large village on the line from Barmouth to Towyn, 6 m. S. of the former place. It is in the parish of Llangelynin, whose church, 2 m. S. on the old coast-track to Towyn, is now disused, a new edifice at Llwyngwril supply- ing its place. In the village is an old Friends' burial-ground, dating from 1666, and on a hill near is the ancient British camp, Castell-y-gaer. In the ▼icinity are also other ancient remains. Llyfnant Valley, the, 2}, m. S.W. of Machynlleth, bei;inning at Glaspwll and extend- ing W. as far as Pont Llyfnant, on the road from Glandovcy to Machynlletli. The stream running 195 NORTH WALES through this beautiful vale forms the dividing line, so far as it goes, between tlic counties of Cardigan and Montgomery. A little S. of tiie pretty village of Glaspull is an exceedingly picturesque double cascade, worth the whole journey to see. An added pleasure, however, may be gained by ascend- ing the vale for another mile, when Cwm Rhaiadr is reached and the striking waterfall of Pistyll-y- Llyn (q-v. ) is seen in the distance. Llyn Abcr, known also as Llyn-an-afon, about 3 m. (as the crow flics) S.I'', of Aber, is a small sheet of water noted for its fishing. It is reached by way of Bwlch-y-ddeufaen (1368 ft.). Lly/i Aled, the source of the river Aled, is about \}, m. N.E. of Llyn Alwen. Llyn Ahven, a considerable sheet of water in which the river Alwen has its rise, about 5 m. N. of Pentrevoelas. It is preserved and contains fine perch and pike. LIvn Aran, under the N. cliffs of Cader Idris, about 2], m. S. of Dolgelly ; source of the Aran, which flows direct to Dolgelly. Llyn Aiyiiig, a fine sheet of water, on the E. slope of the Arenigs (q.v.) and 1326 ft. above sea level ; about i m. from Arenig Stat, and 6 from Bala, which draws a part of its supply of water thence. Noted for its trout and perch. Llyn Bach (known also as Llyn-y-tri-graienyn, the three pebbles) is on the E. slope of Cader Idris, about 2 m. S.W. of the Cross Foxes — 862 ft. above the sea. Llyn Dar/og, about 4^ m. from Towyn, a little S. of the Happy Valley route to Pennal. Lly>t Bodric (Anglesey), about i m. N.E. of Ty-croes Station on the line to Holyhead. \g6 LLYN ABER-LLYN CO RON Lhu Bnchl'cyd (1805 ft. above the sea), is a little N. ot Glyder-fawr and directly S. of Llyn Ogwen, and with its cwm is exceedingly wild in character. 1-lyn Idwal lies due W. LIvii Hods;ynu'yd(!, more commonly designated I,lyn Bo'd, is n small tarn S. of Llyn Geirionydd (which is 4A ni. from Capel Curig). Llyn Bodlvii, a fine sheet of water romantically situated at the foot of Diifwys, the iiighest point of the I-lawllech range, and the source of the river Ysgethin. From Bodlyn (1240 tt.) Barmouth derives its water supply. Noted for its char fishing. Whhin a short distance of Bodlyn is Llyn Dulyn, a smallish tarn with good fishing. Lly>t Bug'Uyii, i m. S. of Llyn Glaslyn, in the Plynlimmon range, 10 ni. S.E. of Machynlleth. The Severn has its source a little over a mile from Llyn Bugeilyn. Llv)i BwJinu, a small lake lying between Capel Curig and Llyn Geirionydd. IJvn Ca-iCS lies in a small cwm at the base of Cader Bcrwyn. It is the source of the Rhaiadr, on which is the famous Pistyll Rhaiadr waterfall (c].v.). Llynclys (s. ), about 2-i m. N. of Llanymynech on the line to Oswestry, near which is a small lake — Llynclys Pool — connected with which is a tragic legend of a king of that part who was swallowed up because he declined to listen to an early mission- ary from G ',ul. Llvii Conway lies a little to the N. of the mountain tract, lying to the E. of Ffestiniog, to which the name of Migneint is given. See Conway, the. Llyn Coron, situated close to Bodorgan Station 197 NORTH WALES on the line to Holyhead, is the fountain head of the river Ffrnn', which falls into the sea at AberftVaw. The llyn is of good size and noted for its fishini'. Llyn Co'iilyd is a narrow ■^hect of water lA m. in length, 1 164 ft. above the sea, 4^ m. W. of Trefriw. From its N, end flows the Afon Ddu, a feeder of the Conway, on whose cour-c, near Dolgarog, are the Dolgarog Falls. The lake lies between Pen Llithrig (W.) and Craig Eryrod (E. ). F"roni it Conway and Colvyn Bay are supplied with v.'ater. Llyn Crafnant lies midway between Capel Cu'ig and Trefriw, with Llyn Cowlyd to the N.W. and Llyn Geirionydd to the S.E. The stream issuing from Crafnant to the last-named lake enters the Conway at Trefriw. Llyn Crafnant is the property of Llanrwst and supplies that place and Trefriw with water. Lhn C'tcellyn, or Quellyn (463 ft. above the sea), source of the river Gwrfai, is situated a little W. of Snowdnn and between it and the two beautiful Nantllc lakes to the S.W. It is about I ] m. long and J^ m. broad and lies between the foot hills of Moel Goch and Moel-y-cynghorion on the N. and N.E. and Mynydd Mawr (2290 ft.) on the "W. On the N. side of the lake is the Cwellyn Lake station of the Narrow Gauge Rail- way from Dinas .Tunction. Here also is the Snow- don Ranger Inn, whence proceeds the shortest route to the top of Y Wyddfa (2^ m.), ascending by the Bwlch Cum Brwynog and Clog\vyn Du'r Arddu. To the right in the latter cwm are seen the four small mountain lakes, named Llyn Glas, Llyn Coch, Llyn-y-Nadroedd, and Llyn Ffynnon- 198 LLYN COWLYD-^LLYN DULYN y-gwas. They all contain fish except Y Nadrocdd. On the other side of the path is the Llyn Du'r Arddu. Llyn Cwellyn is known for its good fishing. It contains trout and char (Welsh " torgoch," redbelly), but is strictly preserved. S. of Llyn Cwellyn is the tiny Llyn-y- Dywarchen. Llyn Cwm Dychau, a small mountain lake or large tarn (527 ft. above the sea), situated in a narrow glen, amid vild surroundings to the N. of Rheinog Fawr. From it flows the beautiful little river Artro, which empties itself into the sea at Llanbedr, which is the most convenient point to start from to visit the llyn (distance 4^ m.). Above it towers the precipitous Craig-y-Saeth. Llyn Cwm Ffyunon is situated under the Glydcrs and has Nant-y-gwryd to the E. and Gorphwysfa immediately S. It is 1253 ft. above the sea. Lly)i C'wm Mynacli, a small mountain lake at the head of the charming Cwm Mynach glen, and directly to the E. of DifTv/ys, in the Llawllech range. Llyn Cwm Ystrallyn. See Moel Hebog. Llyn Cynwchf a picturesque tarn, lying at the foot of Moel Cynwch, which towers above the vale of the Mawddach. Height above the sea 729 ft. Llyn Dulyu, the Black Lake, so called doubtless on account of the dark and gloomy rocks that come down to the water's edge, is situated a little N. of Melynllyn, both of which lie under the frowning brow of Carnedd Llev/elyn, a path to whose summit lies between the two. Foel Fras (3091 ft.) towers above the lake to the N. Dulyn and 199 NORTH WALES Mtlynllyn and their v^atersheds have been acquired by the Llandudno Urban Council, which carries thence the supply for the town (a distance of i6 m.). Llyti Du'r Arddu, Sec Snoiudon. Llytt DyuTircJieu, a small lakelet immediately S. of Llyn Cwcllyn, on the E. slope of the Pass of Drw3-y-cocd. Llyii Eicidi'w Miiwr, a beautiful sheet of water situated a little N. of Cwm Bychan, at the foot of Craig Ddrwg, containing excellent trout. Near it is I'.iddew Bach, and within the distance of an easy tramp several other small lakes, noted both for the wild and beautiful scenery surrounding them and for their fishing potentialities. Among the number may be mentioned Llyn Caerwych (N. of Cwm Bychnn), Llyn Dyarchen, Llyn Du, Llyn-y-fedw (at an elevation of 1064 ft.), Llyn Pryfyd (1200 n.), 2 m. N.E. of Cwm Bychan (q.v.). Llyn Eigian (1219 ft.), at the foot of the N.E. slope of Carnedd Llewelyn, Pen-llithrig lying directly S. It is traversed by the Porth-Iwyd, a tributary of the Conway, noted for its beautiful fall, a little way above Pont Porthlv.yd. Llyn Geirionydd (see Llyn Crafnant), immedi- ately to the E. of which Geirionydd lies, about 2.', m. S. of Trefriw. At the lower end of the lake is a monument to the bard Taliessin, placed there in the belief — erroneous it is said — that his home was on its shores. Llyn Glaslyn. Sec I^lyn Bugeilyn, which lies to the S. of it. Llyn Gloywlyn, a small lakelet well up on the flank of Rhinog Fawr, about i m. S.E. of which is Llyn Du. 200 LLYN DU'R ARDDU— LLYN IDWAL Llyu G'dinnni is 2!, ni. 8.W. of Dolgclley, on the old road to Towyn. Opposite the lake the pony track, or Foxes' Path, turns off to Pen-y- Gader and Tal-y-Llyn. In a little over a mile Llyn Gafr is reached, and less than half a mile further on Llyn-y-Gader, lying directly under the Pen (2927 ft.), a beautiful mirror reflecting the deep blue sky, if the day be favourable. On the other side of the ridge, more than a tliousand feet below, lies Llyn-y-Cau, almost as beautifully placed as Llyn-y-Gader, whose surroundings none can fail to admire. Llyn Gwyuant. See Givynant, the river. Lly7i Hoicel is a small lake or tarn, suggestive of an exhausted crater, high up amid the precipitous cliffs of IJethr (2475 ft.), near Pi-rfl-ddau. Near Llyn Howel, separated only by a ridge, is Llyn-y- bi. Llyuiau Cniigenciiy twin lakes situated, as we may say, bi'twccn the N.W. knees of Cader Idris, 800 feet above the sea. Above them (N.) towers the so-called I,ong Ridge (Pared-y-cefn-hir), while to the S.E. rises the threatful crest of Tyrau Mawr. A visit to these splendidly placed lakes, via Arthog (2 m.), makes a pleasant day's outing from Bar- mouth. Llyniaii Myiiibyr. Sec Llugivy, the river, and Capel.Curig. Llyu Idwal, lying to the S.W. of Llyn Ogwen, is one of the wildest and most tragic-looking of Welsh lakes. It is 1223 ft. above the sea, and has for near neighbour the precipitous fianks of Glyder Fawr. No one within walking distance should fail to see it — least of all the geologist, so much is there to be learned from it respecting the action of 201 NORTH WALES ice in the great Ice Age, under the guidance of Ramsay and others. Pennant tells us that the lake gets its name from Prince Idwal, a son of Owen Gxynedd, who v/as sLin here by Dunod, liis foster-father. Llyn Bochlwyd lies within easy walking distance of Idwal. A little to the S. and W. of Idwal is the lakelet Llyn-y-cwn (the Lake ot the Hounds), a small stream from which finds its way through the chasm at the N. end of the lake, known as Twil Du (Black Hole), or tlic Devil's Kitchen, as English tongues give it. Llyn- y-cwn is about 22C0 ft. above the sea, and from it Glyder-fawr (2975 ft.) may be ascended in about three-quarters of an hour. Llyn Irddy'ii, a lake of considerable size on the W. slope of the Llawllech range, 3 m. E. of Talybt)nt, which is reached by following the course of the Ysgcihin. On the W, side of L. Irddyn are unmistakable traces of an ancient town. Near it, on tlie further side of a stream emptying into the Ysgcthin, which drains the lake, it the fortified hill, Craig-y-ddin3S. Near by is the Cainedd I lengwm, which antiquaries hold to have been con- nected v.ith the town as a burial-place. Llyn LUwhran. See Aram. Llyn Llug'iVy. See IJugivy. Llyn Llydau'y a fine sheet of water over a mile in length, situated on the E. slope of Y Wyddfa, I 41 5 ft. above the sea, its southern end lying under the precipitous cliffs of Lliwcdd (1527 ft.). Less than a mile W. is the Glaslyn tarn (1970 ft.), right under the very peak of Snowdon. It need hardly be said that the views hence arc magnificent in the extreme. L. Llydaw is about i| m. S. of Gorphwysfa. 202 LLYN IRDDYN— LLYN PADARN Llyii Miiicr, a sm.ill sheet of water between 3 and 4 m. N.E. of C;irno (q.v.), wherein is good fishing, as likewise in Llyns Tarw and Du near by and the streams flo'ving from them. Llyii Og'd'Cii, the source of the river Ogwen, is a long narrow lake nearly a mile in length, narrow- ing still more to its W. end, where it is gathered up into the gorge known as the Pass of Bcnglog, and rushes thence over a scries of falls (making a descent of 100 ft.), when, as the river Ogwen, its waters flow in a N.H. direction through Nant Ffrancon. The llyn has the distinction of having around it several of the highest peaks in Wales. S. is Tryfan {i.e. three-headed) and Glyder Fach, N. Braich Du, a ridge of Carnodd Dafydd, while right in front (W.) towers Foel Goch, with Y Garn companioning it to the S. The Ogwen has long been noted for its fishing, yielding trout and c-cls, though not so plentifully as aforetime, and that for the reason, say anglers, that, because the lake is free, it has been over-fished. The high road to Bangor and Holyhead runs along the S. shore of L. Ogwrn. Lint Pndarn and Llyn Peris, lakes in the Vale of Llanberis, fed by the Seiont. The former, the larger of the two, is about i }j m. in length, but is inferior in beauty to Llyn Peris, which, though smaller in extent, is encompassed by rugged hills, outliers of Moel Eilio and the Elidyrs, that come down to the water's edge. At the lower end of Llyn Peris rises the lonely tower of Dolbadarn, a picturesque feature of the Vale. Green meadows stretch between the two lakes, along the connecting Seiont, here crossed by a bridge leading to the quarries. See Llanberis. 203 NORTH WALES Llyn Pin Rhaiadr, a small lake on the N.\^'. slope of Plinlinimon, 7 m. vS. of Machynlleth, con- taining good trout. The Llyfnant has its rise in Pen Rhaiadr, and soon after its start dashes over a high ridge, making the fine fall of Pistyll-y-Ilyn, whose wild and solitary surroundings invest it with peculiar grandeur. Llyii Peris. See Llyn Pailarn. Llyn Pryfyd (1200 ft.), 2 m. N.E. of Cwni Bychan. Llyn Omllyn. Sec Llyn Civellyn. Llyn fecuyn haf and' Llyn Tecuyn Uchaf (908 ft.). Sec Llandecwyn. Both lakes arc good for sport. The larger (Uchaf) is drawn upon tor the water-supply ot Portmadoc. Llyn Tigid. See Ba/a. Llyn Tiyrn, a small tarn to the left of tic track from Gorphwysfa to Snowdon, about a mile distant, and near the N. end of Llyn JJydaw. Llyn Ttyweryn, a small lake lying to the left of the road from Bala to Ffestiniog, in the valley of the river Tryweryn. It is seen from the rail- way to Ffestiniog, which ^t this point reaches an elevation cf I 279 ft. Llyn-y-c'iitn, a small tarn to the W. of Glyder-fawr, whence there is an outfall to Llyn Idwal, barely i m. N. Llyn-y-Ddinas. See Llyn Gwynant. Llyn-y-Gadi)'. See L/yn Givernan. There is another Llyn-y-Geder near Beddgelcrt. Llyn-y-morwynion. See Beddau Gnvyr Ardudivy . Llys Bradicen, the remains of a pahce or mansion, supposed to have belonged to a Welsh chief named Ednowain-ap-Bradwen (i2'h cent.), 204 MACHYNLLETH a little S. of Arthog. Within a short walk are the Creigenen lakes. Ll^s Diiionvic, the remains of an ancient man- sion of uncertain date, near Dinas Mawr, an ancient hill fort, between 3 and 4 m. E. of Caernarvon. Llysfaen (s. ), a village situated between J^landulas and Penmaen Rhus, a few miles E. of Colwyn Bay. From the hill above the village a fine view is obtained of the mountains to the W. Loggerheads Inn, an old-fashioned road-side tavern halfway between Mold and Moel Fammau, with a sign representing two loggerheads and bearing the legend, " We Three Loggerheads be." The sign is said to have been painted by Wilson the artist, whose father was rector of the parish. Machno, the, a feeder of the Conway which, linving its rise in the hills above Penniachno, descends in a series of cascades till it meets the formidable rocks which it has to take at a giant leap, thus forming the Machno Falls. These are situated but a little above the junction with the Conway, and so near the Conway Falls (q-v.) that they can be visited in one jaunt. Machynlleth, a borough and market-town, situated in a fine valley, near the junction of the Dulas and Dovey (or Dyfi), 4 m. N.E. of the mouth of the latter, has a pop. of about 2000. It is more regularly built than most places in the Principality, its two wide main streets being planted on either side with trees. It does a little in the manufacture of woollen goods and also in the tanning of hides, but, as the innkeeper's wife said, its chief industry "is tourists." It certainly forms a convenient centre for these, as also for anglers, for whom the streams named and others in the 205 NORTH WALES vicinity afford excellent sport. In the Dubs the fishing is free from Corris. Noteworthy buildings in Machynlleth are ( i ) a picturesque old black and white cottage in Maeng- wyn Street, with dormci windows, and an inscrip- tion which reads : ** 1628 j owen pvgh | o vxur " ; (2) a house, with traces of an old porcli and an arched window or two, which is pointed out (though doubted by some) as the " Senate House " wherein Ov/cn Glendower (in 1402) met the nobles and commons of Wales, and induced them to recognise and crown him as Prince of Wales. Machynlleth is held by Camden to be on or near the site of the Maglona of the Romans. Maelgwn G'iiviieorted to have been raised to the memory of Twrog, a British saint of the 7th cent. Within an easy walk of Maentwrog are the Rhaiadr Du and the Raven v/aterfalls. Archdeacon Prys, a noteworthy poet of his time, whose translation of the Psalms is still the commonly ured version in Wales, was rector here and lies buried in the churchyard (d. 1^24.) Maentwrog Road Station (on the Ffestiniog and Bala line) is about 2 m. distant. Macs GarnuDi, i m. W. of Mold ; the scene of a battle in the 5th cent, in which native Christians, under tlieir bishop, Germanus, obtained a signal 206 MAELGWN GWYNEDD— MEIFOD victory over an army of Picts and Scots, by merely lifting up their hands like Moses and crying out " Alleluia ! " — a very beautiful and not wholly improbable story. M(US-y-G(inudd, a farm-house near the foot of the pass known as Drws Ardudwy, celebrated as being the birthplace of Colonel Jom-s, one of the '* Regicides" executed iu 1660. MnUilraeth Bay, on the S. coast of Anglesey. Stretching inland from the bay are extensive sands called by the same name, and beyond them the desolate tract known as Malldraeth Marsh. This has been much improved by the embankment of the Cefni River (tidal), which, after flowing in a S.W. direction for some miles, falls into Malldraeth Bay. Mallwydy a village \h m. S. of Dinas Mawd- dwy, on the Machynlleth Road, beautifully situated, and a favourite resort of artists and anglers. The church, small but interesting, has for altar a slab of stone. Over the porch (dated 1641) are suspended some very large bones, said by Pugh ("Cambria Depicta") to have belonged to a whale caught in the Dovey. The graveyard has some fine yews. Matlirafel, on the Vyrnwy river, 3 m. N.E. of Llanfair (Mont.), with remains supposed to have been the residence of the Princes of Powys. Mawddach Estuary. See Barmouth. Meifod, a village in the vale of the same name, about 7 m. N.W . of Welshpool, on the river Vymv^fy. Meifod was formerly the archdeaconry of Pov/ysland, and its church (dedicated to St Tysilio) the place of sepulture of its princes. The church presents some interesting features, notably 207 NORTH WALES an arcade (Norm.) disclosed during its restoration (1871) and an embattled tower (13th cent.). Meifod is a favourite resort for anglers, there being two good inns, and the V'yrnwy and other streams in the vicinity affording good sport. Meitii Hirion. See Penmaenmaivr. Meitii G'.i'vr Ardnd-wy, two monumental stones, so-called, near the head of the pass known as Drws Ardudwy (q.v.). Meiiai Sim it. See Section I. M'nift'ordd jfiiiiitioii, on the Narrow Gauge Railway to Ffestiniog, i m. from Penrhyn (Deudraeth). Moat Lane jfuuctio)i, about 4.^ m. W. of Newtown, where the Mid- Wales Railway starts for the S., via Llanidloes. Near Moat Lane is the •' Moat " from which the station tikes its name. It surrounds a mound of some elevation, and near it is an ancient British encampment. Mochnant Valley. See Llanrhaiadr - yn - Mochnant. Mochras Island — sometimes, on account of the beautiful shells found there, called Shell Island — lies just off the shore at the mouth of the Artro, 2\ m. S. of Harlech. It may be reached at low water by a narrow isthmus on its eastern side. Pensarn is the nearest station. Mod Arthur, one of the notable entrenched peaks of the Clwydian range of hills that runs S. from Dyserth through the Vale of Clwyd. Near Dyserth we have the first of the series in Moel Hiraddug. Then follows Pen-y-Cloddiau, the most remarkable of these entrenched peaks Moel Arthur comes next, nearly due E. of Whitchurch, defended by two dykes of great depth ; then Moel 208 MEINI HIRION— MOEL HEBOG Fammau (1823 ft.), the highest summit of the range, with its stump of the Jubilee Tower of 1 810 (on tiie border of Flint and Denbigh) ; then Moel-y-gear, a little to the S.W. ; and finally Moei Fcnlli (S. of Bvlch Pen Barras), the most southerly 'of the entrenched peaks. All these heights consist of Sikirian rocks, except the first- named, which is of mountain limestone. Mod Cynwch. See Precipice Walk. Mod Eilio, "the Frosty Hill," a little to the E. of Bettv/s Gannon, having an altitude of 2382 ft. There is another Moel Eilio (1273 ft.) above Dolgarog, in the valley of the Conway. M,!d Faiiiiiinn. See Moel jlrthur. Fammau may be ascended from Mold in a walk of about 6 m. Mod Fenin, the most northerly peak of the Berwyns, with a height of 2070 ft., overlooking Glyn Dyfrdwy (N.). Mod Forfydd — " Morfydd" on Ordnance map — (1750 ft.), one of the peaks of the Berwyn range, with Valle Crucis to the E. N.E. of it is Moel-y-Gamelin (1897 ft.), and N. of that Moel- y-gaer. The ascent of Gamelin may be com- menced near Valle Crucii Abbey. From the summit the view is very fine, including many of the Snowdonian peaks and the V^ale of Clwyd as far as the sea — weather, of course, being propitious. Mod Godi, a peak immediately N. of Llyn Cwellyn, ;ilong whose E. side goes one of the ascents to Snowdon (q.v.). Mod Hchog (2566 ft.): the peak is about 2 m. S.W. of Beddgelert — the best place from which to make the ascent. Here Owen Glendower took refuge when pursued by the English. S. of Hebog is the little lake of Cwm Ystrallyt? o 209 NORTH WALES Moel 0§rwin. Sec Nannau. Moel Senigl (1019 ft.), a low hill 2 m. E. of Harlech, noted for the enchanting view to be obtained from its summit, which includes (N.) the Traeth Bach and the Snowdonian Mountains, on the W. Cwm Bychan, and, still further to the right, the Rhinog range. Moel Siabod (2860 ft.), about 6 m. E. of Snowdon as the crow flies, and a little W. of S. of Capel Curig, from which it is usually ascended. It is a difficult climb, on account of its precipitous sides, but the splendid view it affords over the neighbouring peaks and vales, as well as of the coast and the Irish Sea, well repays the effort. Moel Sych, one of the Berwyn heights (2713 ft.), immediately S. of Cader Berwyn (or Ferwyn). N. of the latter rises Cader Fronwen (2564 ft.), always to be distinguished by the cairn on its summit. The outlook hence includes the Clwydian range, the Breidden Hills and Long Mountain, Bala Lake and the Arenigs (W.), and N.W. Snowdonia. Moel Try fan (1350 ft.), 3 m. N. of Nantlle, noted for its quarries, and worthy of a visit by the geologist on account of the post-tertiary sea-beach near its summit, containing shells. It is reached by taking the narrow gauge from Dinas to Snow- don, and changing at Tryfan Junction, whence a branch runs to Bryngwyn, on the slope of Tryfan " mountain." Moel Wnion (1902 ft.). See Aler. Moclwyn (2527 ft.), directly S. of Cnicht, marks the highest point of the range on the opposite side of the valley from Ffestiniog, from which it lies between 4 and 5 m. to the N.W. It is 210 MOEL OFF RWM— MOLD within easy walking distance of Tan-y-grisiau Stat, (on the Ffestiniog line), which is at an elevation of 200O ft. The side of Moelwyn is cut and defaced with quarries. Moelwyn Fach, of lower elevation, is a little S. of its namesake. Moel-y-Gaer. See Halh'm Mountain. Mod-y-GamcUn. See Aloel Forjydd. Moel-y-Gcraint (or "Hill of the Kindred"). See Llangollen. Moel-y-Gest, a hill (86i ft.) i m. W. of * Portmadoc, which gives a fine view over Cardigan Bay. Near it is the village of Penmorfa (q.v.), with a church containing some remarkable old monuments. Moelfre Bay, 4 m. N. of Red Wharf Bay (scene of the wreck of the Royal Charter), a tiny watering-place. Near Moelfre, on j.lugwy farm, are the remains of a cromlech. Mold, the assize town of Flintshire, on the Alyn (pop. 4873), with a handsome 1 jth-cent. church (restored) containing a number of interest- ing monuments and some good stained glass, also a memorial window to Richard Wilson, the landscaj.e painter, whose remains lie in the churchyard. On the N.W. side of the tovvU is a high mound known as Bailey Hill. It was called Mons Altus by the Romans, and from the corruption of that name Mold is supposed to have been derived. The eminence (in part artificial) appears to have been fortified at an early period, and this circumstance, together with the numerous tumuli in the vicinity, bears testimony to the obstinacy with which the district was defended by its Cymric inhabitants. About I m. W. of the town is Maes Garmon (the "field of Germanus") (q.v.). 211 NORTH WALES Montgotnery (pop. 1034), a small borough and the county town, close to the English border, has its name from Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury [temp. William Rufus), who built upon an ancient foundation the castle, the remains of which crown an adjoining eminence. It is a quiet, sleepy place, li m. S.W. of the station that bears its name, and consists of littk more than one lonj; street, running steeply up the hill on which, at the edge of a bold rock, the old castle still dominates the town. This once famous fortress, now but a heap of ruins, in former dayb played an important part in border strife and warfare. T'.^ice it was destroyed by Llewelyn, and as often rebuilt, during those stormy times. In the i6th cent, it came into the possession of the Herberts of Cherbury, who long held it as their principal rcidencc. The famous Lord Herbert, remembered chiefly for his learning, and his no less celebrated brother the poet, had their early home here. During the Civil War Lord Herbert held it for the king, but sur- rendered it to Sir Thomas Myddekon in 1644. Being obliged to retreat, however, the castle was invested by Lord Byron, who v/as thereupon attacked by Myddelton and defeated. The fortress v/as tiien destroyed by order of the Parliament. The parish church of Montgomery (ded. to St Nicholas) presents a few interesting features. It is of cruciform design and still shows portions of an early date, notably a fme carved rood-screen and .• good timbered roof. There arc also some good monuments — one to the father of Lord Herbert, of Cherbury, others to memheri of the Mortimer family (once in power here). But to the popular mind tliere is more interest in the churchyard than in the church. 212 MONTGOMERY— MYNYDD-Y-GADER 'I'licie, according to the legend, a man named Nf-wton was buried, who had been hanged for highway robbery and murder. On conviction he warmly ])rotestcd his innocence, and predicted that, in proof of the injustice of his sentence, grass would nevei grow on his grave. The prediction, it is said, was fulfilled, and the " Robber's Grave" is still pointed out to the curious. In the vicinity are many antiquities and other objects of interest, including OfTa's Uyke, which may be traced for a considerable distance, and, a little N.E. of the castle ruins, the wooded hill known as Fridd Faldwyn, the site of an old British camp, whence a delightful view is obtained. Morfn Rhuddlait. See Rhuddlan. Most y II (s.), on the estuary of the Dee, 3 m. N. of Holywell, with iron-works nnd some coasting trade. (Fop. 1762.) Near it is Mostyn Hall, seat of Mostyn f.miily, and a veritable museum of Welsh MSS. and antiquities. The latter include the golden torque found near Harlech Cpstle, a silver Ittrp, once an Eistcdfodd prize, and the original commission under the hand of Queen Elizabeth to hold the Eistedfodd at Caerwys in 1568. The M8S. (catalogued for the Hist. MSS. Com- mission) are held to constitute one of the best collections in Wales after Peniarth. Mostyn Hall is interesting as being the scene of the escape of the Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry V^II., from a body of his rival's troo]KTs, who disturbed him while at dinner, necessitating a hasty retreat through a back window still known as the King's Window. Mynydd-y-G(uhr ("the Giant's Nose"), a peak due S. of Dolgelly, the form whereof explains the name it bears. 213 NORTH WALES Na)iIioroii, a village in Lleyn, about 8 ni. S.W. of Pwllheli, on the road to Aherdaron. The Nanhoron Valley, through which flows the Bodlas, presents a rare scene of sylvan bcautv, with its background formed of Carn Madryn or Fadryn (1221 ft.). NannaUy the seat of the Vaughan family (who claim descent from Roderic Mawr, King of N. Wales), about 3 m. N.F. of Dolgclly, is said to stand on higher ground (800 ft.) than any other country seat in Oreat Britain. The original hall, which was replaced by the present mansion sonic years ago, was the rf'sidence of Howe! Scle, the lifelong enemy of Owen Glendowcr. The lofty hills Moel Orthrwni «*nd Mod Cvnwch (q.v. ) rise on either side of the park, and like trusty henchmen keep careful watch over it. The summit of the first named to the E. is ringed round by a rampart (supposed to be British) of loose stones. An aged oak, 28 ft. in circumference, at one time stood in the park, and was known as the Haunted Oak. Th.c reason for its being so called is thus given by the historian Pennant: " Howcl Sele, of Nannau, in Merionethshire, first- cousin to Owen, v/as an adherent of the House of Lancaster. Owen and this chieftain iiad been long at variance. T have been informed that the Abbot of Kymmer, in hopes of reuniting them, brought them together, and to all appearance effected his charitable design. While they were walking out, Owen observed a doe feeding, and told Howel, who was reckoned the best archer of his day, that there was a fine mark for him. Howel bent his bow, and, pretending to aim at 214 NANHORON— NANT FFRANCON the doc, suddenly turned and discharged his arrow full at the breast of Glyndwr, who fortunately had armour beneath his clothes, and received no hurt. Enraged at this treachery, he seized on Sele, burnt his house,' and hurried him away from the place ; nor could any one learn how he was disposed of till forty years after, when the skeleton of a large man, such as Howel, was discovered in the iiollow of a great oak, in which Owen was supjjoscd to have imnmred him in reward for his perfidy." Sir Walter Scott refers to the tree and the legend connected with it in a note to the sixth canto of **Marmion.'' The tree was destroyed by lightning on the night of the 13th July 1813. The spot where it stood is marked by a lundial, tearing a brass plate with an inscrij'tion and a representation ot the old oak. Nauncrch ($.), a village on the Mold and Denbigh line, near the source of the Wheeler (or Chwilcr), whence fine views arc obtained of the Clwydian Hills. * Nant Ffrancon, or "the Vale of Beaverj," about 4 m. N.W. of Capcl Curig. Through the va!e meanders the river Ogwen, bordered by a narrow strip of meadow land, with lotty moun- tains on either hand, Carnedd Dafydd standing up boldly in the E., and the Glyders seeming to bar the way S. This famous valley was — we do not know what vast ages ago — the bed of a glacier, the marks of whose action are still plainly to be seen, as well as in some of the cwms that open into it. The high road from Capel Curig to Bethesda and Bangor runs through Nant FfrancoD, and one pre- senting scenes of more savage grandeur it would be hard to conceive. See Section III. 215 NORTH WALES Nantglyn, a bciutifully situated village about 4 m. S.W. of Denbigh, noteworthy as having in its churchyard the remains of three famous Welshmen, William Owen Pughc, the antiquary ; Aneurin Owen, his son, editor of " The Ancient Laws and Institutes of Wales " (d. (1S51); and Robert Davics, known to his own countrymen as " Bardd Nantgiyn." The church- yard is noted for its fine yews. Nmit Gicrthcyrn, or Vortigcrn's Valley, lies W. of the Eifl Mountains, near Llithfacn. The glen is open on one side to the sea, on the others it is dominated by mountainous cliffs and peaks. It owes its name to the legend that connects it with the death of V'ortigern. The story goes that he had a castle at this place, and that when the resentment of his people for having invited the Saxons into Wales became too strong for him he fled to it for refuge. It is further said that both he and his dwelling were destroyed by lightning. Another tradition, however, says that when his people discovered his retreat he leapt into the sea and was drowned. The rock that is pointed out as the one from which he took his leap, Carreg-y-Llam by name, rises sheer from the water to a height of 450 ft. A grass-covered mound near this spot is said to be the site of Vortigern's castle, while a tumulus near by is pointed out as the place where he was buried. This is called Bcdd Gwrtheyrn, and some colour is given to the tradition that here was "the Grave of Vortigern " by the fact that more than 100 years ago a stone coffin was discovered on the spot containing the skeleton of a man above the ordinary stature. 216 NANTGLYN— NANTLLE Nciiit Gwynaiii, or " tlie Valley of Waters," running in an N.E. direction from Beddgelert to Pen-y-gwryd (7^ m.), where it joins the road from Llanberis to Capel Curig. A short distance from Pen-y-gwryd the Gl.islyn, a small mountain stream, taRing its rise in Llyn Llydaw, enters the valley by a wide gorge, and on its way to Bedd- gelert, where it joins the Colwyn, a respectable stream, flows through two small lakes, Llyn Gwynant (i m. in length) and Llyn-y-Dinas. The valley is justly celebrated ;is one of the most beautiful in Wales, and affords splendid views of Moel Siabod, Moel Hebog, and Aran, one of the peaks of Snowdon. A noteworthy object about I m. from Beddgelert is the wooded eminence known as Dinas Emrys, connected by tradition with Merlin and Vortigern, who is reported to have had his residence here prior to his retreat to Nant Gwrtheyrn (q.v.). Naittllc (s.), a mining centre on the N. side of the two lakes of that name, and almost directly S. of Moel Tryfan. A branch line 2 m. in length connects it with the L. 6c N.W. Railway at Pen- y-Groes. Nantlle and the whole district seem to be devoted to slate and slate-getting, and the wounding of nature, which is the effect at first pro- duced on the traveller, greatly mars the enjoyment of the scene. Even the two lakes, otherwise very beautiful objects, appear to suffer from the same cause. But one gets the better of this impression in time, especially if we consider that this quarrying also is a part of nature's operations. From Nantlle, proceeding along the N. side of the lakes, which occupy well-nigh the whole of the vale, the hills rising in frowning cliffs on either side, is a good 217 NORTH WALES route to Snowdon (6 m.). The l.ikes once passed, a wonderfully fine riew is obtained of the central peak ; some — following Wilson, the artist, who painted his celebrated picture from this vale — think it the best. The most direct route leaves Llyn-v- dywarchen immediately to the L., Rhyd-ddu being then reached in a mile. It need hardly be said that the whole of the ascent presents a scries of panoramic views hardly to be surpassed. Xintt-v-IJilel Curig, by Llyn Ogwen, the Llanberis Pass, and the Seiont, to Llanrug, and whose sides are formed by lines drawn respeciively from Capel Curig througli Pen-y-gwryd and Nant Gwynant, on the one hand (E.), and from Llanrug through Bettvs's Garmon, on the other, to Beddgelert, which forms the third point of the triangle. The lines of demarcation are not, of course, drawn ^0 strictly as 252 SNOWDON this ; if they were Mod Hebog would be cut otT from the Snowdon range proper, of which it un- doubtedly forms a part. But the figure will give some idea of what is understood when we speak of the block of mountains which surround, and as it wcie, buttress the central peak of Moel y Wyddfa. When we speak of Snowdonia, however, we mean more than this central hub of mountains, the name including the whole of the district from the Conway to the sea and having as its outposts the frowning precipices of Pcnmaenmawr on the one hand, and the lofty peaks of Yr Eifl on the other. Within these limits are comprised, in the order given, the following notable summits (going from N.E. to S.W.) : Y Drosgol (2483 ft.), a litHe S. of the Aber waterfill ; Carnedd Llewelyn (3484 ft.) and Carnedd Dafydd (3426) ; Y Tryfan (3010 ft.) ; Glydcr Fach (3262 ft.) and Glydcr Fawr (3279 ft.) ; Y Wyddfa (3560 ft.), the highest of the Snowdonian peaks; Yr Aran (2451 ft.); Moel Hebog (2566 ft.) ; and Yr Eifl (or the Rivals), of inferior elevation, terminating the series to the S.W., on iht^ shores of Caernarvon Bay. But for the present, under the head of Snowdon, we will confine our attention to what we have described as the Snowdon range ])roper, which, vv^e may add, v.'ould include Cnicht, overlooking the Pass of Aberglaslyp, and Moelwyn, nearer Tan-y- bwlch. It will be seen that by following the high road from Llanberis, through the Pass to Pen-y- gwryd, and thence by way of Nant Gwvnant to Beddgelert, and thence N.W. to Llyn Cwellyn, we may, as old Burton could have put it, " circum- bilivaginate " the whole base of Snowdon, saving a short stretch on the N.W., not more than 3 m. in 253 NORTH WALES extent. By so doing — and it is often done by coach — a good idea is obtained not only of Snowdon and its immediate surroundings, but of the entire range. For those who have the time to spare, it makes a fitting preparation for the ascent of Y VVyddfa and for a fuller comprehension of its position and the lie of its various cwms and ridges. Of these something has been said in speaking of several of the paths up to the summit, but it may be well to add a few further particulars. By one standing on the platform of Snowdon — a fairly broad one, with refreshment houses and a small hotel (for the convenience of those wishing to see the sunrise) — it will be seen that the peak is strongly buttressed by various spurs and ridges, and that between them are great cwms or hollows, in some cases of enormous depth. It is along these ridges that the main ascents are made. That from Llanberis, already described, runs along the slope of Llechog, and at a great elevation passes beneath the threatening crags of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, which trends away westward towards the heights of Moel-y-cynghorion and Mod Goch, to the S. of which begins the ascent from Llyn Cwellyn. Near the E. end of Clogwyn D'ur Arddu rises the ridge of Crib-y-ddysgyl, running easterly to Grib Goch (3023 ft.). Immediately after passing the highest point of Crib-y-ddysgyl ("The Toothed Dish ") the route from Llanberis is joined by what is known . , the Miner's Track from Pcn-y-gwryd, which crosses the N.E. end of Llyn Llydavv' and then zigzags along the N. side of that lake and the Glaslyn tarn (1970 ft. above the sea). The ridge of Bwlch-y-maen, or "The Saddle" (S.W. of Glaslyn), is the one traversed for some distance by «54 V .k-i SNOWDON the Beddgclert route, until it divides, one part of it ^jing S. to Bwlch Cwm-y-Uan and Yr Aran, ""hen (S.E.) there is the ridge of Bu'lch-y-saethau (.,ie "Pass of Arrows"), which is continued by the rugged cliffs of Lliuedd, ending in Gallt-y- Wenallt, just over Llyn Gwynant. The cwms that divide these ridges are, on the "' W., Cwm Brwynog, with its dark tarn Llyn Du'r Arddu ; on the W. the abyss of Cwm Clogwyn, containing several lakes, all of which may be examined on the route from Llyn Cwellyn (q.v.) ; then S.W. we have Cwm Creigiog and S. Cwm-y-llan, forming in fact one great cwm. To the E. is Cwm Dyli — held by some to be the finest of the Snowdon valleys — with its lakes Glaslyn, Llydaw, and Teyrn, up which ascends the path from Pen-y-gwryd ; and then finally, to the W., Cwm Glas, lying between Crib Goch and Llechwedd, with its small supplementary hollows of Cwm Glas Bach opening into the Pass of Llanberis. These five great hollows scooped out of the sides of Snowdon, which in ages past served as the beds of glaciers, present from the summit a most imposing, at times even a stupendous spectacle, for much, of course, depends on the weather when the ascent is made. It is rare to hit upon a perfect day in this regard. Sometimes every feature will be hidden by mist ; at other times only a partial view will be revealed, a ridge here or there, a glimpse down this chasm or that, no wider sight disclosed. But now and again, as in the case ot Borrow's visit, a happy chance opens the whole to view. " Peaks and pinnacles and huge moels stood up here and there, about us and helow us (he NORTH WALES writi-s), partly in glorious light, j^artly in deep shade. Manifold were the objects we saw from the bro.v of Snowdon, but of all the objects which we saw, those which filled us with most delight and admiration, were numerous lakes and lagoons, which, like sheets of ice or polished silver, lay reflecting the rays of the sun in deep valleys at his feet." Pennant, on one of his visits to the sunmit, en- joyed a very different scene to that described by Borrow. "A vast mist (he says) en\eloped the V hole circuit of the mountain. The prospect down was horrible. It gave an idea of numbers ot abysses, concealed by a thick smoke furiously circulating around us ; very often a gust of wind formed an opening in the clouds, v.-hich gave a fine and distinct vista of lake and valley. Sometimes they opened only in one place ; at others in many, at once exhibiting a most strange and perplexing sight of water, fields, rocks, or chasms in fifty ditferent places. They then closed in at once, and left us involved in darkness ; in a small space they would open again, and tiee in wild eddies round the middle of the mountains, and expose in parts, both tops and ba.-.es. clear to our view." It may happen — though how rare the chance!— that by going up early in the dav, and remaining on the top of the mountain till sunset, well nigh every pha e of the giant's various moods may be enjoyed. Then indeed it is the treasured remembrance of a lifetime. On perfectly clear davs the view from Y Wyddfa includes the Wicklow Mountains; the Isle of Man; the Cumberland and Westmorland Hills; some elevations in Yorkshire; and, of course, Anglesey laid out like a map ; the S.W. running promontory of Lleyn, with Bnrdsey Isle at its extreme end ; 256 SNOWDON the mountains of Merionctli ; and E. and N. a whole circuit of Welsh hills. But when the eye has satisfied itself with its wider outlook, it presently sets itself the task of picking out and distinguishing the nearer heights that lie around, each with its own particular mark and character, its own peculiar and individual link with Snowdon. And of these tiie first ot all to claim attention is Carncdd Ugan (3476 ft.), with which is joined the ridge of Crib-y-ddysgyl (forming the lesser of the two heads of Snowdon). The latter connects it witii "fiery red " Grib Goch, tiiat looks down on the Pass of Llanberis. To the R. of these rises the frowning ridge of Lliv.cdd, whose pre- cipitous cliflfs loom grimly over dusky Llydaw ; •and then, as the eye turns more to the S., the stately peak of Yr Aran, in a line with Beddgelert, come into view. These are all prominent buttresses, as Pennant calls them, of Snowdon ; and another, one of an outlying group, Moel Eilio, is seen to the N. of Llyn Cwellyn, one of the twenty or more iheets of water that may be counted from Y Wyddfa; it lies almost due W. T'hen turning our looks N., we see beyond Grib Goch the towering peaks of the Glyders, and beyond the Glyders, Y Tryfan, the double-sentinelled guardian of Nant Francon. It is a wonderful spectacle, and gave rise, as some think, to the idea of Arthur's Round Table and his company of knights, who were ever around him, guardians of his majesty and his state. " To the poets of modern Europe," says Borrow, Snowdon is '-'almost what Parnassus was to tliose of old." Bingley ("A Tour Round North Wales") re- fers this sacred character of the mountain to the ancient Britons, and says, " They have a proverb •^ 257 NORTH WALES extant to this day, that whoever sleeps on Snowdon will awake either a poet or a madman." To-day, however, it is not the sleeping on the mountain that pro«luces this elTcct, but the sleeping on a certain huge stone situate near the little lake, F.lyn Du'r Arddu, a very dirfcrent matter. Snouiion Rtiiluuy. Rcforence has already been nude hereto under the heading I^lanbetis (q.v. ). The work on this railway, which is on the ratch- wheel system so successful in Switzerland, began towards the close of 1894. It was opened on Taster Monday iHy6, when, unfortunately, a bad accident occurred, resulting in the loss of one life. Since then there has been an uninterrupted service on the line in connection with the I,. & NVW.R. trains. The line, which is ^'^ m. in length, begins close to the Victoria Hotel at Llanberis, and passes so near to the Ceiinant Mawr waterfall as to give passengers a tine view of it from the carriage windows. The vale of Cwm Brvvynog is then mounted, and the l.lechog ridge reached, along which the train runs until the terminus is gained just below the summit. There are four stations or stopping-places — the Waterfall, Hebron Chapel (900 ft.), Half Way (1700 ft.), and Clogwyn (2600 ft.). The seats are so arranged as to give passengers the best possible opportunity of viewing the changing scene, the ascent being made in a little over an hour. Sttn'u'dntt Ranger, the name of an hotel on the N.E. side of LJvn Cwellyn, close to the station of that name on the North Wales Narrov Gauge Railway, running from Dinas to the Snowdon Station at Rhyd-ddu (3 J m. X. of Bcddgelert). " Ranker'' is the old name for a guide in the Snow- don district. 258 SNOW DON RAILWAY Snou'doii Station. Sec Rhyd-ddu and last paragraph. Stacks, Xorth and Soutlt. North Stack is the name ;;iven to an isolated rock just oft the N.W^. point ot Holyhead Islnnci. Above it is a coastguard station, where large guns are constantly l^ing fired in foggy weather as a warning to vessels approaching this dangerous coast. South Stack (where is a lighthouse) is the name given to the S.W. corner of the same island (see Holyhiad). Anyone m;iy look over the lighthouse, which con- tains a powerful air-siren tor fogg\ weather, and is well worth seeing. But the "thing to see" on and about these rocks, are the countless sea-birds that make these inaccessible cliffs and caves their home and breeding-place. Strata Matrella, or Ystrad Marchcll, the name of an abbey which formerly existed near Pool (Juay, 3 ni. N. I^. of Welshpool, but whereof only the scantiest traces remain (at a spot called Abbey Field). It was a Cistercian hcase and is said to have been founded bv Owain Cyfeiliog in or about 1 170. Swalhnc WaterfalU the. See Betl'ws-y- coed. SvclmrtJi, a village where Owen Glendow er had a residence, is situated about 2 m. from Llansilin Road station on the Tanat Valley Railway. Borrow, in his "Wild Wales," gives a description of Sycharth and the double-moated '* montide " whereon the one-time residence stood ; also a translation of the poetical account of tlie place composed by the bard lolo Guch, on the occasion of a visit paid to his patron, Glendower. SvcJniaiit Pass, the, is on the old road fjom 259 • NORTH WALES Conway to Penmaenmawr, which traverses a wild moorland tract and descends to Dw\ gyfylclii be- tween Penmaenbach and Allt Wen. Near the top of the Pass there is a notable echo. Talerddig (s.), a village on the line from Machynlleth to Mont Lane .lunction, midway between Carno station and th;it of Llanbrynmair. Talerddig is chiefly notable for the deep rock cutting (i«3 ft.) tiiro'jgh which the line runs at this point. The valley of the Tal in which the village is situated shows some very pleasing scenery. Tiifolog, the, an affluent of the Ysgathan, which joins the Dyfi near MalKvyd. Tnls(ir>ian (s. ), a village on the E. side of the Traeth Bach (q.v.), between 3 and 4 m. N.E. of Harlech. From it the lakes Tecwyn Isaf and Tecwyn LTciiaf can be visited in an easy walk. About a mile S.W. of Talsarnau is the little church of Llanfihangel-y-Traethau, noted for a stone in its burial-ground bearing a Latin inscription sup- posed (by some) to refer to Ov/en Gwviicdd. Tal-y-boiit ( i ) a village on the road from Barmouth to Harlech (4 ni. from the former), where it crosses the Ysgethin. On the bridge here is an old milestone with the inscription, " I Bermo IV. I Ddolgelle XIU." (2) There is another Tal-y-bont, on the road from Towyn to Tal-y-llvn (2 m. N.E. of Towyn), where the Dysynni is crossed by a bridge. (3) The third Tal-y-bont is situated about i m. S. E. of Llan- bedr, on the Afon Dulyn, a little above its junction with the Conway : a resort much favoured by artists on account of its romantic and picturesque surroundings. Tnl-V'Cnfn (s.), a village on the Conway, 260 TALERDDIG -TAL-Y-LLYN ^i m. S. of the town of that name, v/here was tormcrly an important ferry across the river, here, of course, a tidal stream. Opjiositc the station is a mound, supposed in Roman tmics to have been the site of a post for the defence of the crossing. The ferry was replaced by a bridge in 1897. A good centre from which to visit many interesting places in the district. Tnl-v-fan (2000 ft.) is one of the more northerly heights of Snowdonia, situated about 2A m. almost duo S. of Penniacnniav/r, from v/hich place it is readily reached. The ascent is easy. On the summit are two cairns. Bwlch-y-ddeufaen ("The Pass of the Two Stones") lies to the S.W., and the descent may be made through it to Llanfairfcchan. Tal-y-focl, a village in Anglesey, near the W. end of Mcnai Strait, between whicii and Caer- narvon there is a steam ferry. Tal-y-llyn, a beautiful sheet of water on the S. side of Cader Idris, i| m. long by \ m. broad, held by many to be the most delightful in Wales. It is 10 m. N.IT. of Towyn and about 3 m. from the Toy Railway station at Abergynolwvn ; or it may be reached from Corris railway station (on the Narrow Gauge line from Machynlleth), 2. I m. distant to the S.E. The lake is much resorted to by anglers, and there are two good inns in the village at its S. extremity, the older one, Pen-y- bont, by the bridge over the Dysynni near its out- flow. On account of the two railways, Tal-y- llyn is rather a favourite starting point for the ascent of Cader Idris, the path leading by the cwm at the end of which is the tiny Llyn-y-cau, one of the gems of the Cader district. 261 NORTH WALES Tauat, the, an affluent of the Vyinwy, with which it unites a few miles before its junction with the Severn. See Llangynog and Llanrhauidr-yn- mochnant. Tan-y-h-ivlch (s.), a small village on the line from Portmadoc to Ffestiniog, 8 m. by road from Pont Aberglaslyn and barely i m. from Maentwrop. The neighbourhood is rich in fine scenery. The village is a good point from which to ascend both Moelwyn and Cnicht. Tau-y-i^risiaii (s. ), a village on the Portmadoc- Ffestiniog line, 3 m. (by road) from Ffestiniog, whence Moelwyn and Manod Mawr may be easily reached. A delightful walk may be made hence to Beddgelert (10 m.) by way of Cwm Orthin lake (1059 ft. above the sea) and Cwm Croesor (between Moelwyn and Cnicht). Tarannofi, the, an affluent of the Severn which joins that river near Cacrsws, has its rise in the mountains near Llanbrynmair. It flows through a pleasant vale, overlooked in its upper parts by Tarannon mountain, which gave its name to the shales of that name. *' The Tarannon shales," says Sir R. Murchison (in " Siluria"), "occasion- ally of hard slaty character, and of various colours . . . form a geological band of great persistence, which, beginning in small dimensions near Llan- dovery, expands in its couise through Radnor and Montgomery. It is largely and clearly exhibited about New Bridge and at l\irannon, between Llan- brynmair and Llanidloes." Tomen-\-Bala. See B iI,k Tomcn-y-mur ("The Mound of the Wall "), or Castell Tomen-y-mur, lies i^ m. S.E. of Maentwrog Road station, and marks the site of 262 THE TANAT— TOWYN important Roman station of Heriri Mons, so called, though we do not know how it was named by the Romans themselves. The place gets its name from a large mound (500 ft. in length by 350 in breadth) within the enclosure of the old camp, which is of considerable area. Here the Sarn LJen or Helen (q.v. ), on its way N. and S., was joined by other Roman roads. Near Tomen-y-miir is a large amphitheatre and other remains of special interest to the antiquary. Torrent ]]'(ilk, the, a favourite resort, 2 m. E. of Dolgelly, where the Clywcdog stream, skirting the Dinas Mawddwy road, after running through a rocky dough or dell, f;ills into the Wnion. The Walk, which passes through the private grounds of iJaerynwch, follows the line of the stream, and, beautifully shaded by trees, is a delightful stroll in the summer-time, when the ferns and flowers are at their best, and the waters of the brook, dashing over their rocky bed, make a pleasing and appro- priate music. Towyn (s. ) : the name (Welsh, Tywyn) means *a sandy shore, but the town itself — the old town, that is— lies ^ m. from the beach, where, however, a new town has of recent years sprung up and attracts a good many visitors by its splendid sea- tront and extensive sands. These are beautifully firm and smooth, and stretching for a distance of 6 m., form an incomparable promenade either for riding or walking. From them a fine view is obtained of Cardigan Bay, and likewise of the grand array of mountains that form a distinct back- ground to the town ; for the town itself is built upon an alluvial flat, near the mouth of the Dysynni, which looks as if it might, at no very 263 NORTH WALES remote period, have been covered by the sea. Between Towvn ;ind the Dysynni is a stretch of marshland (Morfa Towyn), not very inviting to the general, albeit much resorted to by the botanically minded. As for the town itself, it has the reputation of l)eing extremely healthy, hkewisc cheap, und hence suitable for many-numbered families. The sanitary arrangements are good, and there is an excellent supply of water, derived from the hills above Rhyd-yr-onen (2 m. N.H.). The Urban Sanitary Board (whose district includes Abcrdovey, with a united pop. of 374 + ) is very careful in these matters, being anxious to keep up and even enhance the reputation of the place. Excellent lishing may be had in the neighbourhood, the Dysynni atfording good sport; also Talyllyn Lake (10 m. to the N.E.). P'or Talyllyn the Narrow Gauge is the best means of access as far as Abergynolwyn (7 ni.), whence there is a 3 m, walk. The station for this line is at l*endrc, on the N. side of the town, some little distance from the main line (Cambrian), which lies between the old and the new town. Aberdovey (3 m. S. ), where are golf links and fine opportunities for boating, is easily reached by train, and there arc other places of interest and delight within easy access. The only object of antiquarian interest in Towyn is the old parish church (St Cadfan's). St Cadfan was a monk who came over from Armorica in the 6th cent., accompanied by a number of *' religious " like himself, and, after remaining in Bardsey Island for a time, settled at Towyn, where he established a mission and built a church. The church, called after him, is held to be one of the oldest in Wales. 264 TOWYN— I'RAETH MAWR ' is cruciform in structure and of considerable si/.c, aving a nave, with chancel, aisles and X. and S, anscpts. The nave is early Norm., with rude, I massive pillars supporting round arches, which I divide it from the aisles. The clerestory also is Norm. Other parts show marks of E.E. The edifice was restored in 1881 and, among oihcr alterations, the position of the tower changed. In 1 the chancel arc two interesting old monuments, one of a knight in armour (tnnp. Edward III.), the other of a ])ricst in canonicals. Noteworthy also is an ancient font, to be seen near the door. But the most interesting object in the church is St Cadfan's Stone. This is a quadrangular pillar about 7 ft. in Irngth, with two of its sides 10 in. broad, the other tv/o not more than 6 in., each side being inscribed with rude characters (thought to be debased l^oman), all attempts to interpret which liavc hitherto proved unsatisfactory. The language is undoubtedlv Welsh, though of an age centuries earlier than the oldest Welsh MvSS. extant. Ex- ])erts generally, however, agree that the Stone appears to be commemorative of St Cadtan. It formerly stood in the gravevard, but now lies on the floor of the church. Tracth Bach, the estuary of the Dwyryd (q.v. ), situated to the S. of Traeth Mawr, from which it is separated by the Dcudraeth promontory. Traeth, it may be explained, signifies a tract of sand covered by the sea at high water and bare when the tide is out. Traeth Mtrwr, the larger stretch of sandy flat N. of Traeth Bach, much of which was reclaimed by the building of the embankment at Portmadoc (q.v.). 265 NORTH WALEvS Trmvsfynydd (p.), a small straggling village on deviirrd ground, 4.I m. S. of Ffestiniog (on the line from that place to Bala). Here is the water- shed which divides the streams Traeth-wards, or in the direction of Barmouth. Although its im- mediate surroundings are somewhat bare and bleak, Trawsfynydd commands some exceptionally fine views, especially of the mountains to the W. Good fishing is to be had in the river Prysor and in other neighbouring waters, most of which, like l^lyn Tryweryn (E.),are well stocked with fish (trout, pike and perch). An almost straight road runs from Trawsfynydd, S. to Dolgelly and N. to Maentwrog, and nearly parallel with it on the T^. may be seen the old Roman road known as Sarn Elen, which, about i^ m. N. of Trawsfynydd, passes the Roman station of Hiriri Mons (q-v.). This and other ancient remains to be found in the vicinity are of extreme interest to the antiquary. Treborth Station, on the line from Bangor to Caernarvon, a few hundred yards from the Tubular Bridge. Tre/igl'uys, a village on the Tarannon (q.v), here joined by the Trefeglwvs stream, up which a railway was laid to the formerly famous Van mines. Trefnatit (s.), a village midway between St Asaph and Denbi'h, witli a handsome modern church, built from designs by Sir Gilbert Scott. Within an easy walk (2m.) are the Cefn Caves on the Elwy. On the way the well of Ffynnon Fair, with its ruined chapel, is passed. At this and other similar wells, we are told, clandestine mar- riages used to be " solemnised " at night. Trefriw (s.), a large and pleasant village and 266 \ TRAWSFYNYDD— TREMADOC walcring-placc (with strong chalybeate springs and a pump-room) on the W. side of the Conway, i^ m. N.W. of Llanrwst, with which it shareb a station (i m. distant). It lies at the opening ot the Crafnant Valley, where, about l^ m. distant, is a waterfall formed by the two streams coming from Lakes Crafnant and Gcirionydd. The church, pleasantly shaded by yews, is popularly said to be as old as Llewelyn the Great, by whom, according to tradition, it was built (see Llatir hy chivy n). The whole neighbourhood is full of interest, and many pleasant days may be spent exploring it. A walk that none visiting Trcfriw should miss is one to the head of Llyn Geirionydd and thence to Capel Curig, where, on a fme day, a most magnifi- cent view may be obtained of Snowdon, Moel Siabod, and the Glyders. Tngarnedd, an old mansion (now a farm- house), near Llangefni (Anglesey), of the time of Henry VIL, once the fortified residence of Ednyfcd Vychan, a friend and counsellor of Llewelyn ap lorwerth (i3tli cent.), from whom ' was descended in a direct line Owen Tudor (b. 1386), who married Catherine, widow of Henry v., one of whose sons by him was the father of the Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VH. In a field near the house is a large carnedd (or heap of stones), from which the place no doubt took its name. Tremadoc, a large village about i m. N. of Portmadoc, lying under some fine wooded cliffs, but otherwise of little interest. Close to Tre- madoc, on the road to Snowdon, are the mansion house and grounds of Tan-yr-allt, the one-time residence of the Mr. Madocks who gave his name 267 NORTH WALES to both Tre and Poit Madoc. Tan-yr-AlIt was 80 called after an earlier house of the name which is said to have stood at the village end of the grounds of the present mansion. Tiiis was the house wherein, as a friend of Mr. Madock.s, Shelley for a time lived, and from which he was finally driven by one of the most inexplicable incidents in his erratic career — the alleged attempt on his life in the garden at midnight. The walk hence to Portmadoc is a very pleasant one, opening up some striking views, not the least interesting of which is that of the church, built by Mr. Madocks, lifting up its quaint spire amid the tiees of a rocky elevation at the end of the village. Tremeirchion, a vi'lagc in the Clwydian hills, 2i m. N.E. of Trefnant and about the same dis- tance from St Asaph. In the church arc two interesting effigies, one of them said to be that of a man who was vicar of the parish about the middle of the 14th cent. Another figure of the kind and the head of a cross which stood in the churchyard have been removed to St Beuno's College, a Roman Catholic seminary, situated on the Dyserth road, about a mile from the village. In the parish is the well of St Beuno (Ffynnon Beuno) and two caves, in which, many years ago, v/ere found the bones of reindeer, rhinoceros and other animals, as well as a quantity of charcoal. Near the village is Brynbella, the house built by Mrs. Piozzi, Dr Johnson's friend, and for some time occupied by her. Trer-Cciri. See Tr Eifl Mountains. Tre"}- CastcU, a farm-house on the sea-shore of Anglesey, a little N.E. of Llanfaes, cccupying the site of an ancient castellated residence of the 268 TREMEI RCHION— TWYMYN Tudors, some slight traces of which are still to be seen. Trevor (s.), a village on the line from Ruabon ro Llangollen, overlooking the vale of IJangollen, having the once famous railway bridge across the vale to "the E. and the Pont-y-cyssylltau Aqueduct fronting it on the S. Tryfim or Trivaeu (3010 ft.). See Swjivdoti, One of the best ascents is from Llyn Ogwen. Tryfan gets its name from Tri Vaen, from three tall stones formerly standing upright on its summit (now reduced to two, one having fallen), which from below had the exact appearance of three men, and were often taken for such. Tryfan jfu)ictio)i, the station on the Noith Wales Narrow Gauge Railway from Dinas to the Snowdon station Rhyd Ddu at which the branch lines go off to Bryngwyn on the slopes of Moel Tryfan. Tr\wcryn, the, an affluent of the Dee, which it joins just after its outflow from Lake Bala, has its rise in Llyn Tryweryn, a little to the W. of the Arenigs, between which it takes its way through a beautiful vale, until, passing Frongoch, it turns in a more southerly direction and close to Bala adds its waters to those of the "sacred Dee." Tudical's Isles. See St Tudiual's Isles. Twll Dn. See Llyn Idnval. Twrch, the, a tributary of the Dee (q.v. ) T'ttyinyii, the, an affluent of the Dyfi or Dovey, having its source on the N. slopes of Plinlimmon. On its upper waters are several fine waterfalls, the uppermost of which, Ffrwd Fav/r, has a perpendi- cular descent of 130 ft. and is particularly striking after rain. A little below the main fall the waters 269 NORTH WALES take another leap, the two from a distance looking like one. The surroundings arc grand in the ex- treme nnd add greatly to the effect of the cascade. Ty-croi'S (s. ), a village on the Holyhead line, about 3 m. N.W. of AbcrfFraw and not far from Llyn Badrig, which lici N.H. Tyii-\-^rofS, a favourite resort of artists and anglers, 5 m. N. of Dolgelley. It is on the W, bank of the Mawddach, a little below its con- fluence with the Cain and the Camlan, and is reached by the Macntwrog road from Ll.melltyd, which runs along the right bank of the Mawddach, and hence up the beautiful Ganllwyd Valley. Near Ty'n-v-groes !■; the Glasdir copj)er mine, and a little above the inn (Oakley Arms) is a wooden bridge over the river. The falls of Rhaiadr Du, Pistyll-y-Cain, and Rhaiadr Mawddach are all within easy walking distance of the inn. Tyrau Alawr (2167 ft.), < ne of the peaks of the western flank of the Cader Idris, whose bold precipitous crags overlook the Crcigenen lakes. Vljcni, a place on the coast, near the Point of Air, at which OfFa's Dyke terminated. Vale of Cliiyd, the. See Clivyd (the river). I'roperly speaking what is known as the Vale of Clwyd extends from Derwen, about 5 m. S.W. of Ruthin to the Flintshire coast, having a length therefrom of nearly 23 m. Its breadth varies from 2 to 6 or more. It is bounded on both sides by mountains, on the E. by the Clwvdian range, and on the W. by the Mvnydd Hiraethog, a long, deso- late range of hills whose highest points are to be found in Bronbanog (1572 ft.) and Moel Eithin (1660 ft.). The whole of the rallev is subject to 270 TY-CROES— VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY extensive floods; but while these at times cause great destruction, they on the other hand pay rich tithes in the wonderful fertility thus imparted to the wide-spreading fields. Everywhere the scene is one of fruitfulness and content, and though the visitor may at times be disappointed as regards the famed beauty of the Vale, he cannot but be pleased by its many charms, often bordering on the idyllic. There are many points, like the tower of St Asaph's Cathedral or Denbigh Castle, from which oood views of the Vale may be obtained, but none are equal to that to be had from the churchyard of iJangwyfan, 5 m. E, of Denbigh, from which, on a clear day, the valley may be seen well nigh from end to end, from the sea on one hand to Eyarth .'cliffs on the other. I'nle- of Edeyrniou, the, a beautiful stretch of country in the N. E.part of Merionethshire, beginning to the S.W. of Corwen, and following the course of the Dee until it bends W. towards Bala Lake. It is bounded on the S. by the Bcrwyn Moun- ^tains. Valle Cruets Abbey, the Abbey of the " Valley of the Cross," is supposed to take its name from an ancient cross (thought by some to be the neighbouring " Pillar of Eliseg," which may be seen from the Abbey door), and dates from about the year 1 200, when it was founded by Madoc of Gryffydd Maelor, Prince of Powys. It is about 2 m. N. of Llangollen, in the R. of the road to Ruthin, and forms one of the most perfect and interesting ecclesiastical ruins in N. Wales. The abbey was not large, and the church, which is the most considerable portion remaining, consists of naves (of five bays) with aisles, choir, and two 271 NORTH WALES transepts, each of which had an aisle and two chapels. The W. front, with its pointed doorway, its three double-light windows, and above them, in the gable, a later circular or marigold window, is perhaps the most beautiful part that remains. The style of it is E. Fng. Above the lancet windows an inscription, greatly mutilated, records that ••Abbot Adam " y>ri/ hoc opus ("had the doing of this work"). In the nave the side walls and poitions ot the piers remain, and between the nave and the choir are fragments-of a rood-screen, with a stair on the S. side. The E. windows also remain — three lofty lancets and two smaller ones above, and strike one as being the oldest part of the edifice. Portions of the transept likewise are still standing, and both here and in other parts of the ruin details occur that are well worthy of note. S. of the church, adjoining the sacristy, is the old chapter-house, stone-vaulted, with four pillars for supports, which was at one time used as a farm- house, but is now restored to itself, a memento merely. On the side towards the cloister, long since cleared away, the chapter-house was lighted by a window of striking Flamboyant design, evidently a late addition. S. of the entrance is a small door giving admission to a stair leading up to the dormitory, which was above the chapter-house. Bingley, in whose time it was still a farm dwelling, notes that the floors of the dormitory are " so thick, from their being arched underneath, that when the doors are shut, and the men were threshing corn in the barn over the kitchen, they cannot be heard below." Valle Crucis Abbey was a Cistercian house, dedi- 272 [ VRON CYSSYLLTAU cated to the Virgin Mary. It was dissolved about the year 1535, when its revenues were valued, according to Dugdale, at a hundred and eighty pounds, eight shillings, and by Speed at some twenty-six pounds more. It was a rich foundation, having, besides a number of livings, three hundred iicres of " jiiough lind." But now, notwith- standing the care bcstowid on it, it is a waste — a shadow cast down through the ages of a condition that was, beautiful in its decay, with nature asserting her sway and imparting her loveliness, but still a shadow. Valley Station, the last on the Holyhead line on the mainland of Anglesey. Shortly after quitting it tlie railway crosses the Stanley tmbankment (J ai. in length) to the small island on which Holy- head stands. Over the embankment the high road also is carried. Vait Lead Mines. See I.ltimdloes. Vauuer Abbey. See Cynwur Ahhey. Vaxnol Park, the finely wooded demesne of the Assheton Smith family, on the Caernarvon btde of Mcnai Strait, between Treborth station and that of Port Dinorwic. Vigra and Clogait Gold Mines, the, are situated between Bont-ddu and Ll.inclltyd, about 5 m. N.E. of Barmouth. For a short time, forty years or so, the yield of the precious metal was very great (in 1862 ^^24,000), but of late years it has been small. W^rtigern's Valley. See A^ant Givrtheyrn. Vron Cyssylltaii, a village about i m. S. of Trevor station, on the line Irom Ruabon to Llan- gollen, from which the Cyssylltau Aqueduct across the Dee Valley ukea its name. Pont-y-cyssylluu S 273 NORTH WALES is on the other side of the river. See Cyssylltaii Aqueduct. Vyrnwy'y tlie. See Section III. Waenfixwr^'i. station on the Narrow Gauge Rail- way midway between Tryfan Junction and Bettwi Garmon, in the valley of the pretty Gwrfai stream. Waterloo Bridge. See Bettivs-y-coed. Waterloo Tower. See Runbon. Watt's Dyke. Of this ancient defensive work less is known than of Otfa's Dyke (q.v.). Some suppose it to have been a second or afterthought of OfFa's. Watt's Dyke began at the sea-coast near Basingwerk Abbey, running thence in a southerly direction, past Halkin, Northop, and Hope, to Wrexham, Ruabon, and Wynnstay (formerly called Wattstay from its running through the park), being traced thence through Gobowen (where it is known as the Devil's Dyke) to Oswestry and Maesbury, being finally lost in the lowlands N. of the Severn. It has been conjectured that the ground lying between Watt's and Otfa's Dvke may have been neutral territory, whereon Cymry and Saxon might meet for the peaceful purpose of trade and what not. Churchyard the poet, in his "Worthi- ness of Wales," refers to this " free ground " : '■There is a famous thing. Cal'de Offa's dyke, that reacheth farre in length, All kind of ware the Danes might thither bring, It was free ground and cal'de the Britaine's "Strength. Wat's dyke likewise, about the same was set, Betweene whicii two, the Danes and Britaines met And traffic still, but passing bounds by sleiglit, The one did take the others pris'ner streight." Welshpool (s. ), on the Sevtro, is in reality, though not nnminilv, the county town of Mont- VYRNWY— WELSHPOOL gomeryshire, the assizes being held here, and much other shire business concentrated within its bounds. It was granted a charter by .lames IL, and has from an cirly period been a place of importance. Its name is said originally to have been called Poole (no doubt by re.ison of its proximity to the tiny lake Llyn-dii, now within the enclosure of Powis Park),;ind that "Welsh" u. is added thereto by way of distinguishing it from Poole in Dorsetshire ; but it is curious to note that in Leiand's " Itinerary," it is referred to as " Welschpole." Welshpool was formerly a centre of the flannel trade, but is so no longer, its four thousand odd inhabitants depending for their livelihood on many manufactures and industries that arise out of its position on the Montgomeryshire Canal and the railway, and as a market-town. It is very Eng- lish in uppearance, having wide and regular streets, with houses for the most part built of brick, while English is heard spoken much more than Welsh. The only building of importance in the town (after tlie old church) is the Town Hall, a rather fine modern building. Here the assizes are held, the court-room being distinguished by a statue of Justice, holding her sword in the left hand and her balance in the right, and in consequence much laughed at ; but the sculptor evidently knew what he was about. In his view the accurate balancing of right and wrong should come first, punishment second. The parish church, dedicated to St Mary, is situated at the higher part of the town, w hich over- looks the pleasant valley of the Severn. It ib chiefly remarkable for its massive tower, large nave (with which has been incorporated the S. aisle), 275 NORTH WALES and the Dec. E. window of the chancel, part, as is thought, of the original structure. In 187 1 the churcii was restored and much altt-red. It contains some good Powys monuments. In the cl.urchy.ird is a large boulder stone, known locally as the "Wishing Stone." It was brought hither from tlie Abbey of Ystrad Marchell, was allowed to rest for long years inside the church, although held to have been formerly a Druidical altar, but was finally turned out of doors. There is much of antiquarian and other interest round and about Welshpool that might detain the curious for several days, and notably a Tomen, or moated mound (now used as a bowling green), which in all likelihood once guarded the passage of the Severn. To the passing visitor, however, the chief attraction of Welshpool will always be the sylvan glories of Powis Park, the entrance to which lies immediately S. of the town, and Castell Coch (or Powis Castle), stated in the midst of it. A fortress of the same name, which means Red Castle, so called from the red sandstone ot which it is built, V. as begun here, the centre of the old lord- ship of Powvsland, as early as 1 1 10. A little over a century later (1233) it was taken and dismantled by Llewelyn the Great. Subsequently it came into the possession of Hawys Gadarn, daughter of Owain Gwenwynwyn, who married Sir John Charlton, and in the family of Powys (Sir .lohn being created Baron of Powys) remained for several generations. The barony and title went afteru'ards to Sir John Grey by marriage with Jane, eldest daughter of Edward Lord Powys, with whose descendants it continued till the reign of Henry VIII., when the title became extinct. 276 WELSHPOOL— WHITCHURCH The estate subsequently came into the possession (by purchase) of Sir Wni. Herbert, second son ot the Earl of Pembroke, who was created Earl of Powys by Charles L In the Civil War it was taken for the Parliament by Sir Thomas Myddekon, but was handed back at the Restoration to the Herbert family. Leland and Camden both speak of two castles here within one wall. The words of the former (who wrote temp. Henry VIH.) are: " Wclsch- ' pole had two Lords' Marchers Castles with one wall, the Lord Powys namid Greyc, and the Lord Dudley caullid Sutton ; but now the Lord Powys hatlic bothe in his hand. The Welschpole (Castle) is in compas almost as much as a little townc." The present castle is a patched-up, heterogeneous structure of many periods, although its salient features are those of an Edwardian keep, with four massive round towers. It occupies a commanding position on a natural platform of sandstone rock, portions of which have been cut away to torm ter- races. In the early part of last century the place was much altered and modernised by Sir Robert Smirke ; at the same time " Capability" Brown put his hand to the gardens and grounds generally, doing much to make the demesne the delightful pleasure place it is. Words are useless to describe it — it must be seen to be enjoyed. In the house, which may be seen when the family is away, are many art and other treasures. Wheeler (or Ch\cUer), the. See Nmnerch. Whitchurch, a village i m. E. of Denbigh where is the old parish church of that town. It is dedicated to St Marcella, and is now used as a cemetery chapel only. It contains some inter- 277 NORTH WALES esting aichilcclural delaiLs, including a liammcr- bcam roof with large corbels, two parallel aisles divided by octagon pillars, above which is a cornice with much sculptured detail. But the feature which will probably most interest the lay visitor is a brass in the })orch to Richard Myddelton, Governor of Denbigh Castle under Edward VI., Mary, and riizabeth, and his wife Jane, with tlitir nine sons and seven daughters. The sixth son l->ecamc the famous Sir Hugh Myddelton, the Lord Mjyoi who brought the New River to London. There also lie buried other notable men, including Humphny Llwyd, the Welsh historian, and Thomas Edwards (" Twm o'r Nant "), noted for his witty dramatic " Interludes,' a native of the district. Wliitford, a village about 3 m. N.W. of Holy- well and just S. of Mostvn Park. Near it is Downing Hall, at one time the home of Thomas Pennant, the historian and antiquary, now the property of Lord Denbigh. In W'hitford Church Pennant was buried. In a field by the side of the road leading to Newmarket is the famous Alaen Achivynfaen (the " Stone of Lamenta- tion "). It is close upon 12 ft. high, and 27 in. wide at the base. The head is circular, enclosing a cross, and the whole surface of the shaft is richly wrought with ornamentation. Barely a mile W. of Whitford is Garreg Hill, noted for its round lower, held by Pennant to have been erected by the Romans as a pharos^ or lighthouse, to guide vessels to and from the Dee. Wrexham (population, 18,377), a busy market town and railway centre, has, from its size and 278 WREXHAM CHURCH 0> WHITFORD—WREXHAM importance, been designated the metropolis of N. Wales. Ji contains many fine and some old buildings, and the country round about is so delightful as to have induced many to fix their residence in its vicinity. In the Saxon chron- icles the place is referred to under the name of Wrightelsham, while in Beaumont and Fletcher it appears as " Rixum." The chief object of interest in the town to the tourist, however, is the parish church, one of the finest in the Princi- pality, and accounted in former days among the Seven Wonders ot Wales, because of its magnifi- cent tower, 135 ft. in height. The tower is in truth deserving of all the praise that has been l>estowcd upon it. It consists of several stages, panelled throughout, and richly adorned with statues of saints (annng them that of St Giles, * whom the church is dedicated) in niches of the buttresses. The whole is surmounted by an open-work balustrade, u-lierefrom spring foui lan- tern-shaped turrets, in keeping with the balustrade. The edifice (a fine type of Perp.) dates from the year 1472, when it was built to replace one destroyed by fire. It comprises a nave, aisles, and spiral chancel (polygonal in shape), with a pointed E. window of five cinquefoiled lights. The columns separating the nave from the aisles are octagonal, v.ith moulded capitals and bases. The clerestory has windows of two cinquefoiled lights, and there is an open timber roof of lov/ span. The W. window is similar to the E., having five cinquefoil lights. Above the chancel arch and fine N. porch remains of mural paintings were disclosed on the restoration of the church (1867). Noteworthy also are the handsome i6th-cent. 279 NORTH WALES metal screen and braes lectern in the chancel, the octagonal font (restored to the W. end of the nave from the garden of a neighbouring hall), and the grotesqijp carving over the pillars. Among the monuments are two by Roubiliac, one of which, in memory of Mary, daughter of Sir Richard Myddelton (d. 1747), is particularly fine. She is represented rising from the tomb at the sound of the last trumpet. The othtr work by the same sculptor consists of two medallion portraits of the Re v. Thomas Myddelton and his wife. Hugh Bellot, Bishop of Bangor and Chester (d. 1596), has an effigy in the chancel, and there is also a monument to Sir Richard Lloyd, Governor of Holt Castle for Charles L Note likewise (in N. porch) the figure of a knight in comjilete armour with lion (or dog) couchant, and shitld with lion rampant, bearing the inscription, " Hie jacet ap Howell " (found by workmen when digging to make repiirs). The altar-piece (representing the institution of the Sacrament) was the gift of Elihu Yale (son of one of the Pilgrim Fathers), after whom Yale College in America is nnmed, and whose tomb (restored by the authorities of the colkgc in 1874) may be seen in the churchyard (W. of tower). The tombstone bears the inscription : — " Born in America, in Europe bred, in Africa travelled, in Asia wed, W'liere long he lived and tlirived, in London dead. Much good, some ill he did, so hope all's even. And that his soul through mercy's gone to heaven." It remains to be said of Wrexham that in the old vicarage (now no more) Heber wrote the cele- brated hymn, " From Greenland's icy mountains," 280 WREXHAM— YALE while on a visit to his father-in-law, Dean Shipley ; that the infamous Judge Jertreys was born at Acton House, 1 m. N. of the town ; and that at Erddig, i}j m. S., lived Philip Yoikc, author of "The Royal Tribes of Wales." The tDwn owes its prosperity to its breweries, to the mining and brickmaking carried on in the vicinity, and to the lact of its being a busy railway centre, the Great Western and the Central, from Lancashire and Cbeshire, having each a station here, while a third serves the two, from one or other of which it is an easy matter to get to any part of Wales. ITjf (or G7vv), the. Sec P/in/inimon. irj'»;(5^M'. See Ruabon. Yah. Immediately S. of where the Vale of Clwyd ends, and a little to the N.W. of Valle Crucis, is the old manor of Plas-yn-Yale, note- worthy because of its connection with the Univer- sity of Yale in America. Here Yales have lived for many generations, descendants presumably ot the family of the same name who held the old 'lordship of Yale-in-Powys ; and hence went one of the Pilgrim Fathers who gave such a start and a stamp to the New England across the seas. He in due course gave to the world a son, " Eliugli Yale," after whom, on account of his benefactions, Yale College was named. Elihu Yale died in England, and was buried in Wrexham church- yard, where his tombstone (restored by the authori- ties of the College in 1874), with its curious inscription, may still be seen. About 2 ni. from Plas-yn-Yale, in the interesting little church of Bryn Eglwys, is a transept known as the Yale Chapel, wherein for generations upon generations 281 NORTH WALES the Yales of that ilk have cultivated the spirit which in the " Eliugh " of Wrexham churchyard left iti mark on America for all time. (Sec IVrexham.) y Gam (2063 fu), a prominent peak a little to the E. of Diphwys, the terminal point of what is known as the Lla-vllech range, running N.E. from Barmouth. Y Lasynys (" the Green Isle "). An old farm- house, Lasynys-fav/r, which stands here, on the L. ot the road to Talsarnau, about r m. N. of Harlech, was for many years the home of Ellis Wynne, a famous Welsh author, whose life spread over thirty years of the 17th cent, and as many over the 18th, and whose " Visions of the Sleeping Bard" (" Gweledigaeihau y Bardd Cwsg ") is still held in high repute. Yuys Enlli. See BarJsey Islam!. Ynys Seirii'l. Sec PuJJin Island. Ynyi y Maengxvyu, a handsome mansion of the Corbctt family, on the S. b;^nk of the Dysynni, a little to the N.E. of Towyn. The gardens and the grounds generally arc very delightful. Yr Eifl (The Rivals), a group of mountainous peaks in Lleyn, overlooking Caernarvon Bay, between Clynnog and Nevin. There arc three principal summits, of which the highest is 1849 ft. above the sea. Betwixt it and the sea is a pre- cipitous bulk known as the Lesser Eifl, while on its landward side (S.E.) is a lower elevation of 1400 ft., which is of exceptional interest, because within its recesses are contained the remains of the most important fortified camp or town in N. Wales. It is known as Tre'r Ceiri (Englished by some as the Town of the Fortresses, by others as Giants' 282 Y GARN— YSGETHIN Town), and is situated about i m. from the village of Llanatlhaiarn, at some elevation above the road to Lithfacn. " It consists," says the ylrch. Camhrnisis,^ " of several groups of cells or « cyttiau,' surrounded by a wall enclosing upwards of five acres, being more than 300 yds. from W. to E. The inner wall, which is very perfect, is in many places 15 ft. high, and in some 16 tt. broad, and has a parapet and walk upon it. Tlierc arc nine groups of cells of various forms — round, oval, oblong, squ;irc, and in some instances a combination of hexagonal chambers leading to a circular one." In all there appear to have been o\er a hundred cells or huts. The only entrances were on the W. side. Of this ancient construction, as of the many others in different parts of N. Wales, history has nothing to say, and we arc left to conjecture tor all we know of it. In the summer of 1903 the Rev. Baring Gould and a friend explored some of the cells, and were fortunate enough to find a few articles of interest, including, besides pieces of pottery, two porcelain l>ead», held to be ot Egyptian manufacture. The conclusion arrived at by the explorers was that the buildings were Celtic, pro- bably British, and that they were of the ist or 2nd cent. It is supposed the "town" was only used for occasional habitation, and in all like- lihood as a place of retreat or defence in case of invasion. In the vicinity are a carnedd and a cromlech. Ysgiilii)!, the, has its rise in the mountains im- mediately N. of Diphwys, and drains the lakes Bodlyn and Irddyn (q.v.), and, after a westerly ^ For 1855, p. 156. 28^ NORTH WALES course of a few miles, empties into the sea at Afon Yspethir., ;ibou? i m. W. ofTalybont, Yspytfv li'dii, a villigc on the Conway, 2} ni. S.W. of Pcntre voclas, where, in olden days, was an hospital of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem (dissolved by Henry VHL), and where, in the old church, arc monuments commemorative of members of the Rhys family ot Tudor times. Ystrad Manhcll, or Strata Marcella Abbey, was situated near Tool (>Liay. Little trace of it remains. It is said to have been founded by Owen Cvveiliog in the year 1170, and received benefac- tions from Madoc-ap-Grutfyth Mnelor. In Ed- ward lll.'s reign the Welsh monks were ii-moved from Ystrad to En;;libh abbeys, and English monks put in their place, the abbey at the same time being made subject to the abbot and convent of Buildwas, in Shropshire. y TI'iYfJ/i/, the central peak of Snowdon (q.v.). Height, 3560 feel. 2P4 INDEX OF PERSONS " AVibot Adam," 272 Abbot of Kyninier, .>n Agricola, Julius, 63, 78, 233 Alfred the Great, 67 Aiiarawd, 67 Ancaster family, the, 155 Anglesey, Marquis of, 127, 230 Antoninu--. reference to, 9a Arnold, Matthew (quoted), 179 Arundel, I'honias, Karl of, 162 Arundels, family of, 119 Aryan speech, the, 62 Assheton Smith family, 373 Assian, Bishop, 95 B Haldwin, 6) " BarJd Nanlglyn." See Daxies, Robert Marrow, IJr Isaac, 72, 250 Beauchamps, family of, 119 Kellot, Hugh, Bishop of Bangor, » 280 Be\eiidge, Bishop, 72 liingley, Kcv. W., 76, 257, 272 Bolingbroke, 148. 177 Bletsoe, Lord St John of, 119 Borrow, George, 149, 183, 186, 255, 256, 257, 259 Brochniael, 65. See Concenn, 143 llrockwel, Pnuce, 228 Broke, Lady Willoughby de, 107 Bronze Age (barrows, etc., of), 77. 2»9 Brythons (or Britons), 62, 63, 64, 65. 227. 257. 283 li'illceley, chancel monuments of family, loi , Baron, 101 , Sir A.. loi , Sir Richard, lot Butler, Lady Eleanor, 185 Byron, Lord, 212 Cadcll, 07 Cadfan, King of (dd-ap-Ivan, 159 Dafydd, son of Owen Gwynedd, 143 = 85 NORTH WALES Danes, inroads of. 66, 67 I)Avid (or Dafydd). brother of l,lewelyn-Ap-i;rufrydd,70, 106, 1,1.135 Davie'i. Kobcrl, ai6 l>eatoii, G. K., li Deane, Bishop, 05 Deiniol, BiNbop. 93 |i<-nbieh. Earl of. 119, 165,331 — . Counte^» of, 165. mi l>e(by. Earl of. 160 Orayton (quoted). ?U no Diinod, ?03 r.JreJ. ' : Kdnnwain of HraJwcn, 90 Kdward the KlJer. 68 the Itlark Prince, 166. 137 I., 99, in, 113, iiy •". 133, w8, ijo, 131, 148, 918, II., 113. 113, 148 -—IV., ISO VII. .163 Edward'. Thomas, 71, 378 Finion Kreiihin, 337 F.lioibelh. yvicen, 115, 913 Ellii. 'ITioinas E.,93 FJreton. Henr^- de. 74 '• Fo* Ceirioj;." See Morns. Hugh. Ethelfrith (or Ethetfrid), 6s. 66, 96.07 Faucit, Helen. lyJ Feilding. Viscount. after*arils Farl of r)enbigh, 139 Fishermen's Hut<. ;iC r.aveston, Piers, 143 ("tiant's Town. .*^ee Tre'r Cciri (lib-son (Editor of C^amden). 193 , John (sculptor), 125 Gildas (the historian). 247 Gilpin (quoted >. 246 r,iraldusCanibrensis,36, 166, 336 tlladstone, Wni. Ewart, 160. tO< Cleidower, (^tteii. Sec Owen lUendowcr C.lyn, Or Jefffry, yj, 94 Cilynn, Serjeant, 160 G.«:h. GrilRthapWawd, 116 , Owin. 135 , Rhys, 146. 151, 333 (".oidels (or Gaels). 62. 63, 64 < '."XKlinan. Dr G.^brifl, 72, 74S lioronwy ( »wen, 71, 95 Gould, Kev. Barine, 283 tirey, Ixjrd, of Ruthen, 347. 248 , Sir John, 276 Griffilh. r 3, J29 -ap-Conan, 71 -ap-Rees. 71 (".rniiow-ap lorwcrlh, 154 t'.ruffydd-.ip;l.le*elyn, 170 Gwyuedd. King of, 65 H Harold (Saxon king), 68 Harrison (quoted). 10, 18 Hawksley, T., 38 Hawys Gadarn, d;inghter nf Ouain Gwenwynw\ii, 276 lleber. Bishop, 280 Helena (or Elen), 114. "7 Hemans, Mrs. 73. M7. '55. ■»5o Henry II., no, ii3, 145,191,240 III., 69. 94< '40 IV., no. 135 V. 135 VII., 120, 180,313, »«o. 331, 367 VIII.,B7. t'S«84 de Lacy (EatI of Lincoln). 131 Herl)ert, ( .eorge, 73 , Lord (Earl of Pembroke), •59 . Sir William, 277 of Cherbiiry. Lord. 213 Hetty's (or Hetiws) Island. 324 Howel Coetniore. lO' Howell Dha. 68 llabert de Burjjh. 69 Hn^h Lloyd's Pulpit, 146 1 Lupus(Earlof Chester), 69 I iiS, 133, ifio. 24^ 186 INDEX OF PERSONS Hugh, Eatl of Shrewsbury, ii8 Huw Morris. See Morris, Hugh I Iberi;tn race (the), 6i, 64, 77 Iberic, 63 Idwal, Prinee (legend of),io2 lolo GOch, 71, 259 lorwertli Drwyndwn, 138 Irving, Wa-.hingtoii, 154 J • James 1 1., 275 loan, Priii^e&i, 101 Johit, King. loi Johnson, Ur Samuel, 140, 154, 155, 2.0, ijS, j6S Jones. Colonel, 159, 207 , GritTuh, 71 , Inijo (architect), 125, 190, 191 .' , John (the " WeKh • liuriis "), 181 , Sir Pr>ce. See Pryce- Jones , Rev. Evan I.loyd, igi — , Richard, 166 Jordan, Mrs (the actress), 73 Judge JclTrey?, j?i Kentigern, Bishop of Glasgow, King Arthur, 247 Charles of Krance, 136 Kncller (the painier), 245 Knights of St John. 284 Ladic'S of Llangollen. See Butler, I.ady Eleanor, and Ponsonby, Miss; also Carryl, Mary. Leicester, Earl of, 125, 132 Leland, author of the''Itiiierary," 153. 273- 277 Lely, portrait by, 142 Lewis, Re\ . A. Elvet, 104 Lewis, the younger, 24 Linnell, John (the landscape painter), 138 Llewelyn-ap-Gryffydd, 76, 18a Llewelyn the Grc:it (or ap lorwerlh), 69, 70, is, 86, 103, 124, 130, 138, 140, 143, 100, iQi, 367, 376 ap- Griffith (or Gryffydd), ijt Llewclyn-ap-SeisylU, 68, 69, 239 Lloyd of CliKhfaen, 187 , Dr. 72 , Sir Richard, 280 , Trevor, 143 Llwyd, lhiini)hre\, 378 Llywarch lien (prince and poet), 71 Luxmore, Bishop, 350 .M Mal>oii-ap-Tegoiiwy, :!44 Madoc (chieftain), loS. 113 Madoc-ap-t°iryflfydd Maelor, 245, -'7' Madocks, W. H . 73, 334, 368 .Maelgwn Gwynedd, 65, 130, 135, 175. 227 Margaret, mother of Henry V 1 L , 16s NLirtin, Sir Theodore, 73 Mary tjueen o( Scots, 155 ^^.^thews (the actor), 183 .Mavimus, the Emperor, 114 Mercians. 67 Mereclith (son of Cynan), 139 Meredydd-ap-lv;ui, ij8 Merlin, loj, 133, 217 Mervin, King of Gwynedd, 67 Milton, John, 27. 67 Montgomery, Roger de, 69, 212 Morgan, Bishop, 95 , Dr William, 71, 73, iSo, 250 Morri.s, Hugh, 71, 166, 233 , Lewis, 71 Mortimer family, 312 , Roger, 119 Morton, G. H.. 13 Morus, Huw. See Hugh ^L-.rris above. Mostyn, Sir Roger, 148 Mosiyns, ancestor of, 225 Mowbrays. the. 119 287 NORTH WALES Murchlson, Sir Roderick, lo, 14. 16, 20. 363 MydJelton, Sir Hvigh, 73. "9i 278 ■ , Rev. Thomas, 278 , Richard (brass), 278 , Sir Thomas. 119, 312, 377 , Dr (friend of Dr Johnson), >S4 Mylton, General, 124, 132, 341 N Nelson, Lord (monumeiil to), i3o Nollckens (the sculptor), 244 Norman?, (reference to), 68 Northhrook, Lord, 177 Northumberland. Karl of, 177 O Octavius, Duke of Cornw.ill, 114 Offi, 66, 220, 241 Ojam inscription, the only on. in N. Wales 120 Ordovices (reference to), 63 Ostorius Scapula, 251 Ouain 'or Owen), Cyfeiliog. 259, 384 Owen, Aneurin, 73, ai6 Glendower (or Olyiidwr), 71, 94, 110. 113. "35. '36' «5'- 157, 206, 209, ai6, 221, 247, 249 359 Gwynedd. 71, 0?, I'o, us, 191, 302, 260 , Fndge, \i''< , Robert, 73, ai6 Pugh family, story of the, 167 Pughe, William Owen, 73, 216 Queen Boadicea, 219 Mary, 99 R Ramsay, Professor Sir A. C. • 16, 19, 30, 33. 35. 36. 232 Reece, H., 175 Rees, Abraham, 173 , Lord, 71 Reynolds (llie p.iiniei), 345 Rhodri Maelwynawg, 66 (or Rodric) Mawr, 67, 68, 86, 214 Rhys GOch. See Goch Richard U , 148, 177. 24'^ Richmond, Karl of, 213. '67 , Sir William (the artist and sculptor), 161 Robert de Khuddl.in, 240 Rudiiey, Admiral, 108, n8 Roman roads, remains, etc., 75,76, 81,92, 102,115,129,147, 158, 182, 106, 311, 227, 233, 243 Romano-British inscribed stones, 179 Roscoe, Thos.. !46. 151 Roubiliac, sculptures by, 280 Rowlands, Bi>hop. 137 , Rev Henry (author o( '• Mona Antiqua Restorata"), Ruskin, John (quoted), 1S4 Rysbach (sculptor), 244 P.-\eet, Lord Clarence, 180 Palmer, A. N., 73 Pennant, Thomas. 73. 139, 203 314, 227. 2i3, 256, 257, :'78 Penrhyn, I>ord. 32, 174 manor (.--tory of), 16S Pierce, Dr Evan, 131 Pilgrim Fathers, 280, 23i I'iozzi, Mrs. 238, 270 Pf.nsonby, Miss, iS, Piyoe-Jones, Sir I'ryce, 73, 220 Ptys. Kdmund, 71 Pu'blicius, St, 114 Pugh, Edward, 207 Sabrina, the legend of, 135. '36 St .\sapl., Bi»liop of, 166, I ...4 St Oeorfje, 167 St JohnfLord), of Bletsoe, 119 5it Patrick, 253 .St Winifred, 164-166 .Salesbury, William, 191 .Salusbury, Col. Will, am, 132 Saxons, 66. 93. 213, 24 > Scott, Sir Gilbert, 95, 249, 266 , S'tr Walter, 215 Sedgwick, 214 Sele, Owen. 214 288 INDEX OF PERSONS Shakespeaie (i:)uote(J), i.»8 Sheffington, Bishop, 94 Shelley, 7^ Shipley, Dean, 350, 281 Sidney, Sit Philip (father oOi 'oo Silures (reference to), 63 Smirke, Sir Robert, 277 South, Dr, 72 Speed. 96,«73 Spenser (quoted), 25 Stanley, H. M-, 7^ , Sir William, i6j Stone Age (barrows of), 77 Stuarts (referred to), 233 Su«tonius Paulinus, 63, 78, 23.; 251 Susan (British queen), 115 Symes, Mrs, 95 Tacitus, 115 Taliessin, 71, 200, 225 Telford (the engineer), 130 Tennyson (quoted), 25, 26 Ternouth (sculptor), 250 Thelwall, John (monument to), 190 Thomas, John (Bishop), 72 Trevor, Tudor, 225 Tudor family (references to, monunieiit-; of, etc.), 84, 231 , Jasper. Earl of Pem- broke, 98 , Royal house of, 180 Turn o'r Nant. See Edwards, Thomas Vandyke (the artist), 245 Varley, John (the water-colour painter). 137 Vaughan family, the, 125. '."7i 161. 173 Vortigern, 103, 133, 134. »io, 217 Vychan (or Vaughan), Meuric >i7 , Ednyfed, 267 W Walton, Izaak, 73 Warren. E.irl, xf>j , Samuel, 73. '54 Wellington. Dvike of, 1 19 Welsh Bible, translator of. See Morgan. Dr West, Lord Cornwallis, 247 Westmacott (sculptor), 174, 250 Westminster, Duke of, 157, 165 Westwood, Professor, author of " Lapidarium Walliae," 80 William I. 69 Williams -Uulkeley. Sir R. B. (wife of), 101 Williams, John (Archbishop), 72, 124, 174 , Sir John, 250 . SirW., 107 Wilson, Richard (the artist), 205, 211, 21S Winifred, St, 81, 156, 165 Wordsworth, 117, 173 (quoted), 185 Wynn, Lady Henrietta \\ . (statue of). :'4^ , Sir Watkms (effigy of), >44 , Sir Watkin Williams 210. 245 Wynne, Ellis, 73, 28a family, 155. ^-5' ^44 , Robert, 125 , Sir Richard, 191 Vale, Elihu, 108, 274, 281 Vorke. Philip, 73, 144. »Si 289 Printed in Great BHtnin by TurnbuU if Spemri, EJinburgK PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS THE DELIGHTFUL GIFT BOOKS LITTLE GUIDES Gilt top^ pott 8w, 4s. net VOLUMES NOW READY:— Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire Berkshire Brittany Buckinghamshire Cambridge and Colleges Cambridgeshire Channel Islands Cheshire Cornwall Cumberland and Westmorland Derbyshire Devon Dorset Durham English Lakes. 6s. net Essex Gloucestershire Hampshire Herefordshire Hertfordshire Isle of Wight Kent Kerry Lancashire Leicestershire and Rutland Lincolnshire London Malvern Country Middlesex Monmouthshire Norfolk Normandy Northamptonshire Northumberland. 5s. net North Wales. 6s. net Nottinghamshire Oxford and Colleges Oxfordshire Rome St Paul's Cathedral Shakespeare's Country Shropshire Sicily Somerset South Wales Staffordshire Suffolk Surrey Sussex Temple. Warwickshire Westminster Abbey Wiltshire Yorkshire East Riding 5s. net Yorkshire North Riding Yorkshire West Riding 5?. net METHUEN & CO. LTD 36 ESSEX STREET LONDON W.C.2 THE LITTLE GUIDES THE main features of these books are (i) a handy and charming form, (2) nutnerous illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists, (3) good plans and maps, (4) an adequate but compact presentation of everything that is inten-sting in the natural features, history, archaeology, and architecture of the town or district treated. In those volumes which treat of counties, there is first a general description of the country — its situation, physical features, flora and fauna, climate, inhabitants, industries, history and archaeology. Then follows an account of the chief towns and places of interest in alphabetical order. The books arc not guides in the ordinary sense of the word. They do not give the usual routes for expedi- tions, information about hotels," etc., but they contain mformation which may be sufficifiil for the ordinary touri-st of literary tastes, and they form not only practical handbooks, but delightful gift books. Cambiidge and its Colleges. By A. Hamilton I'lioMisoN, l'..-\. Willi ;■•; Ulusiraiioiis by Edmund 11 New, and :> ^lftp. Fi/tk Etiition. Oxford and its Colleges. By J. Wf.i.is, .M..^. With 27 Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 6 Plan* and a M.'>p. F.ltventh Edition. St Pauls Cathedral. By GF.ORr.E Clinch. With ^o lll.ibtratiori* and 3 I'lans. Westminster Abbey. By G. E. Troutbecjc. With 41 Illustrations by 1'. D. Bedford .ind from Photo- graphs, anil a Plan. SerfHii Edition. The Temple. By Hugh H. L. Bellot, M.A., D.C.L. With 41 Illustrations by Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and a Plan. The English Lakes. By F. C. Brabant. M.A. With 12 Illu<;tr.-itions by Edmund H. New, 11 Maps and a I'lan. Secoiui E'iitifn. 6s. net. The Malvern Country. By Sir Bertram C. A. W'iNDLB, D.Sc. F.R.S.. F.S..A. With 33 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and a .Map. Second Edition. North Wales. By Alfred T. Story. With 32 Illustrntions and 2 Maps. Second Edition. 6s.net. South Wales. By G. W^ Wade, D.D., and J. H. Waue, ma. With 32 Illustrations and j Maps. Shakespeare's Country. By Sir Bertram C. A. W1NDI.F., D.Sc, F.R.S.. F..S.A. With 25 Illustral:on> by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, a Map and a n.in. Fifth Eiition. Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire. By Herbert \V. Macki IN, M.A. With 24 Illustrations and 2 .Maps. Berkshire. By F. G. Brabant. With ii Illus- trations by E. H. New, 12 from Photographs, and 6 Maps and Plans. Second Edition. Buckinghamshire. By E. S. Roscoe. With 28 Illusiraiiuns by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Pl.-ins and 2 Maps. Third Edition. Cambridgeshire. By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S A. Willi 24 Illustrations, 3 Maps and a Plan. The Channel Islands. By Ethri. E. Bicknell. With 32 Illustrations and 4 >Iaps. Cheshire. By Walter M. Gai.i.ichan. With 48 Illustrations by Klizabeth Hartley and from Photographs, a Plan and 2 M.ips. Cornwall. By Arthur L. Salmon. With 26 Illustrations by 13. C. Boulter and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. Third Edition. Cumberland and Westmorland. By Daniel ^Corr. With lllustratioi.s and Mups. (In preparation.) Derbyshire. By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S..\. With -,2 Illustrations by J. Charles Wall .ind from Photo- graphs, and :> Maps. Second Edition, Ket-ised. Devon. By S. Baring-Gould. With 32 IIU15- t rations and .• Maps. Fifth Edition. Dorset. By Frank R. Heath. With 33 Illus- trations, 3 Maps and a Plan. Fit'th Edition. Durham. By). E. lIonr.KiN With 32 Illustra- tions, 3 Maps and 4 Plans. Essex. By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32 I Un-t'rations and 2 Maps. Third Edition. Gloucestershire. By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A. NS'ith aS Illustrations and 5 Maps and Plans. Third Edition. t- c, » Hampshire. By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28 Illustrations by M. E. Purser and from Photo- graphs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. Fourth Edition. Herefordshire. Bv G. W. Waoe, D.D., and J. H. Wade M ^ With ?4 Illustrations, 2 Plans and 2 Maps. Hertfordshire. By Herbert W. Tompkins, F.R.Hist.S. With 26 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photograph* , and 2 Maps. The Isle of Wight. By George Clinch. With 29 Illustrations by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Plans and 2 Maps. .^ „ . ,,.• • Kent. Bv T- Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24 Illus'trations by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Plans and 2 Maps. Third Edition, Rez'ised. Kerry. By C. P. Crane, D.S.O. With 36 Illus- trations and 2 Maps. Second Edition, Ker'ised. Lancashire. By F. H. Cheetham, M.A. With Illustratioui and .Maps. 6s. net. Leicestershire and Rutland. By A. Harvey and V. C. Ckowthkk-Beynon, ^LA., F.S.A. With 32 Illus- trations and ; Maps. t t -r-k Lincolnshire. By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A. With 2S Illustrations, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. London. By George Clinch, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. V.'ith 32 r.iu?trntions and a Map. Middlesex. By John B. Firth. With j2 Illustra- tions from Ph.tographs and Old Prims, .1 Plan and 3 Maps. Monmouthshire. ByG. W. Waue, D.D., and J. H. Walie, ma. With -jj Illustrations, 4 Plans .md 4 Map.s. Norfolk. By Wiii.IA.M A. DuTT. With 30 Illus- trations by B. C. Boulter and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. J-'ourth EiiitioH. Northamptonshire. By Wakeling Dry. With 40 Illustrations .-ind a Maps. Third Edition. Northumberland. By Joski-h E. Morris, B.A. With la Illu'.tratioiis, 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 5s. nt-t. Nottinghamshire. By Evkrard L. tiuii.roRi). M.A. With 30 Illii-trations and 3 Maps. Oxfordshire. By F. G. Brahant, MA. With 28 Illusiratiijns bv Edmund H. Ne* and from Photographs, a Plan and 3 Maps. Third Edition. Shropshire. By J. E. Ai'den, M.A., F.R.Hist.S. With ;8 Illustrationsand 2 .Maps. Stcofui Edilian, Revised. Somerset. By (i. W. Wape, D.D., and J. H. Wadb. M.A. With 3-2 Illustrations, a Map* and a Plans. Fifth Edition. Staffordshire. By Chari.es Masefield. With \i lllustr.itic'ni. 3 Plans and 3 Maps, fitcond Edition. Suffolk. By William \. Durr. With 28 Illus- trations by J. Wylic and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. Second Edition. Surrey. By J. Charles Cox, LL.D., F.S.A. With 30 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photo- graphs, and 2 Maps. Third Edition. Sussex. By F. G. Brabam, M.A. With 24 Illustrations by tdmund H. New and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 6 Plans Si.xlh Edition. Warwickshire. ByT.CHARLiisCo.K.I.L.D., F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations and ; .Maps and Plans. Wiltshire. By Frank R. IIk.mh. With 32 lUui- tratioiis, 2 Maps and 2 Pl.nn'i. Fourth Edition. The East Riain^ of Yorkshire. By Joseph E. Morris, B.\. Uitha? Illustrations by R. f. S. Bertram and from Photographs, ? Plans and 2 Maps. Second Edition. 3s. nr!. The North Riding of Yorkshire. By Joseph E. Morris, B..A. With 26 Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs. 7 Plans and •? Maps. Second Edition. The West Ridmg of Yorkshire. By Joseph E. MoRRi";, B.A. With 26 Illustrations, 2 Maps and 7 Plans. Second Edition. 5s. ner. Brittany. By S. Baring-Gould. With 28 Illus- trations by Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and 3 Map;. Second Edition. Normandy. By Cyril Scudamore, M.A. With 40 Illustrations and 2 Maps. Second Edition, Revised. Rome. By C. G. Ellaby. With 38 Illustrations 1 y B. C. Boulter and from Photographs, and a Map. Sicily. By F. IIa.mii.ton Jackson. With 34 Illustrations by the Author and from Photographs, and 2 MRTH^EN & CO. LTD, 36 ESSEX ST., LONDON, W C.t This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. lOM-11-50 2»5 470 I REMINBTQN RANO INC. 20 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY II' AA 000 393 015 3 DA 735 S83n 1920 '<:,'^v:j^^:.