664 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO I ADDON HALL THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES HADDON HALL HV THE LATE LLEWELLYNN JEWITT, F.S.A. ETC., ETC. ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY ENGRAVINGS (SMion LONDON J. S. VIRTUE & CO., LIMITED, 26, IVY LANK PATERNOSTER RO\V [All riy'lit.f LONDON: PRINTED BY J. S. VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITBD. CITY ROAD. DA LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Dorothy Vernon's Door I Roman Milestone, Buxton 2 The " Peacock " at Rowsley 5 Arms of Vernon quartering A vcnell . . 7 Arms of Lord Vernon 9 Kaddon Hall, from near the Dovecote . .12 Interior of Gateway, with enormous Hoop 13 Kutrance Gateway, Haddon Hall, from the Banks of the Wye 14 General Plan of Haddon Hall 15 Haddon Hall Principal Entrance . . .17 The Chaplain's Room 19 Norman Font in the Chapel 20 The Chapel, looking East 21 Wall-paintings in the Chapel 23 Steps to State Apartments 24 Grotesque Figures 25 Roman Altar, Haddon Hall 25 The Lower Courtyard, with Entrance to the Banqueting-hall 26 Hand-lock in the Banqueting-hall . . .27 The Banqneting-hall, with the Minstrels' Gallery 28 Old Oak Table in the Banqueting-hall . . 28 Galleried Passage to the Minstrels' Gallery 29 Oriel Window in the Dining-room ... 30 Ante-room to the Kail's Bed-clumber . . 32 Steps to the Ball-room, or Long Gallery . 33 The Ball-room, or Long Gallery .... 34 Dorothy Vernon's Door : Interior . . .35 ,, ,, Exterior ... 36 The State Bed-room 38 Archers' Room, for Stringing Bows, &c. . 39 Rack for Stringing Bows 40 Turret on the Top of the Eagle Tower . . 40 Screen in the Banqueting-hall . . . .41 Gallery across Small Yard 42 Room over the Entrance Gateway ... 43 Gateway under the Eagle Tower .... 44 The Foot-bridge 45 The Terrace 46 The South Front from the Terrace . . .47 Haddon Hall from the River Wye ... 48 Arms of Manners 49 Arms of Duke of Rutland 54 Ring found in the Grounds of Haddon Hall 55 Washing Tally found at Haddon Hall . . 56 "Dorothy Vernon's Porridge Pot ". . . 57 Bakewell Church 58 Monument of Sir John Manners and his Wife, Dorothy Vernon . . . . . 61 Ancient Cross, Bakewell Churchyard . . 64 The High Tor, Matlock Bath .... 66 The Rutland Cavern, Matlock Bath . . .07 641518 HADDON HALL ADDON HALL is undoubtedly the most attrac- tive, as it certainly is one of the most interesting, of all the ancient mansions of England ; and none throughout the length and breadth of the land have been more fertile in subjects for the artist or in theme for the writer. The walls oi the Academy and of other galleries are hung year by year with pictures and studies of old Haddon, and poets innumerable have descanted on its beauties and dilated on the historic stories with which its history abounds. Situate in one of the most picturesque, if not literally the most beautiful, of our English Shires; absolutely perfect as an example of the fine old " baronial halls of our ancestors ; full of historical and legendary interest ; rich in interesting archi- tectural details, in carvings, in rare armorial decorations, and in remains of the tapestry and other " departed glories " of its former lords ; surrounded by scenery of the most lovely de- scription, and rendered easily accessible by road and rail from every part of the kingdom, it is not urprising that Haddon Hall is visited annually by "trousinds and tens of thousands" of people, and that in Ameiica it is regarded as one of the places in the " Old Country" which no visitors, even for a week, to the classic land of their history, should neglect to see, examine, and be prepared to converse or write about on their return. Charmingly situated as it is in a luxuriant and well-wooded vale, amid the grand old hills of Derbyshire, with the lovely river Wye the attraction and delight of all anglers running serpent-like in its progress at its base, Haddon is indeed a place to be visited and to be enjoyed by people of intelligence ; it is a place for the tourist to see and remember, and for the artist, the antiquary, the historian, or the naturalist to linger at and enjoy. Hall. 1 1 ADDON HALL is distant about seven miles from Matlock Bath, one of ths most delightful of places for a summer sojourn, and about twice that distance from BUXTON, perhaps the most fashionable, as it certainly is the most cheerful, and, we believe, the most healthful, of all the Baths of England. Its waters are as efficacious, in certain ailments, as are those of Southern Germany ; while the surrounding district is so grand and beautiful, so happily mingling the sublime and the graceful, as to compete, and by no means unfavourably, with the hills and vallc)s> that border the distant Rhine. The poet, the novelist, the traveller, the naturalist, the sportsman, and the antiquary have found appropriate themes in Derbyshire : in its massive rocks " Tors," as they are locally called and deep dells ; its pasture lands on moun- tain slopes ; its rapid, yet never broad, rivers, which delight the angler ; its crags and caves ; its rugged and ragged or wooded steeps ; above all, its relics of those earlier days when Briton, Roman, Saxon, and Norman held alternate sway over the rich lands and prolific mines of this lavishly-endowed county ; and of a later time, when shrewd monks planted them- selves beside the clear streams and rich meadows, to which they bequeathed magnificent ruins to tell of intellectual and material power in the time of their vigorous and prosperous strength. Unequivocal evidence exists that the Romans knew the curative properties of the Baths at Bux- ton ; and it is almost certain, from the many Celtic barrows and stone circles found in the neighbour- hood, that a still earlier race was acquainted with them. Probably, therefore, for more than a thou- sand years Buxton has been one of the principal " health-resorts ;| of this island. Yet few remains of antiquity exist in the town. This dwelling, in which was lodged Mary, Queen of Scots, on her several visits, while in custody of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and to which "good Queen Bess," while sojourning at Kenilworth, sent the Earl of Leicester, that he might drink of the healing waters ''twenty days together," has been enclosed and incorporated in the handsome and very commodious hotel, still called the "Old Hall," which occupies the site; and immediately behind it are the two springs the Saline and the Iron the Chalybeate and the Tonic. On a window-pane of one of the rooms in this Old Hall, Mary, Queen Scots, is said to have scratched the following touching and kindly farewell the pane of glass having been preserved until recent years : " Buxtona, CJUK calidae celebrare nomine lymphac, Forte mihi posthac non adeunda, vale ! " Amonpst the evidences of Buxton and its Baths being known to the Romans, however, it may just be mentioned that an inscribed Roman milestone, of Roman Milestone, Buxton. Tour from IJnxton. which an engraving is here given, was found there, on the site of what is sup- poaed to be the Roman station, and that considerable portions of the leaden cisterns of Roman baths, with coins, fibulae, and other remains of that period, have been at one time or other discovered. Remains of Roman roads are also to be traced in the vicinity of the town. Cheerfulness is the handmaid of health ; and although there are many patients in and about Buxton, they do not seem to suffer much : there are more smiles than moans in the Bath-rooms, and rheumatism is not a disease that makes much outer show of anguish. The grounds and gardens of the Buxton Improvement Company, with the grand pavilion, central hall, concert hall, corridors, conservatories, and other attractions, are made pleasant by music and flowers. The air is genial and gentle, and yet " strong , " for Buxton is one of the most elevated of the towns of England the lowest part of the town being one thousand feet above the level of the sea. The baths are well ordered and well managed : the water, though it be " mineral," is as clear as crystal ; and the draughts are to many as were those of the Pool of Siloam. The records of " arrivals " at Buxton show how numerous are the cities and towns that send invalids to its health-giving waters. We are not, however, writing a guide to Buxton, or we might describe a score of objects, curious, interesting, and instructive, within a walk or a short drive of the town, to say nothing of its very comfortable hotels and lodging-houses. All we need add for the information of the tourist from Buxton to Haddon is, that by means of the Midland Railway he will reach Bakewell, some two miles and a half from Haddon ; or Rowsley, which is scarcely two miles distant from it the line running in a tunnel through the hill on which the Hall stands. There are also coaches, waggonettes, and other conveyances making the journey, and private carriages, at moderate charges, can always be had for this delightful drive. It would, indeed, be difficult to find in any part of the British dominions a drive so grandly beautiful as that between Buxton and Haddon. Within half a mile of its centre is "The Duke's Drive" (formed in 1795 by the then Duke of Devonshire) : it runs through Ashwood Dale, passing the Lover's Leap, and so on by Sherbrook ; but the line for Haddon traverses Ashwood Dale, Miller's Dale, and Monsal Dale, passing at some little distance the Lover's Leap and Chee-Tor stupendous crags, from the crevices of which grow small trees, partially crowned and covered with ivy, ferns, and lichens groups of varied foliage intervening, with, here and there, thick umbra^rous woods, and the river Wye not the "sylvan Wye, thou wanderer through the woods," of Wordsworth, but its namesake of lesser fame, though equal loveli- ness, that has its source a mile or two north of Buxton journeying all the way, until at Rowsley it joins the Denvent, from whence the blended waters, running by Matlock, Belper, and Derby, flow into the Trent, and so make their way to the sea. To give a list of the several objects that delight the eye and mind during this comparatively shoit distance would be to fill a volume instead of a page. The l: 2 If addon Hall. naturalist, the botanist, and the geologist will find treasure-troves in any of the surrounding hills and valleys ; while natural marvels abound, within a few miles, in all directions such as Poole's Hole, the Blue-John Mine, the Ebbing and Flowing Well, and the Peak Cavern, with its summit crowned by the fine old castle of " Peveril of the Peak." Majestic Chatsworth to the interior of which, on certain days, the people are admitted, the park being at all times freely open to all comers * is distant about three miles from Haddon, across Manners Wood and intervening hills : in short, there are a hundred places of deep interest within a drive of Buxton, and if it be a long drive, Dovedalef the loveliest dale in England is easily reached ; so, indeed, is far-famed Alton-Towers. \Ve pass, on our way to Haddon, through the ancient town of Bakewell, to the venerable parish church of which we shall, in due course, conduct the reader for it contains some monuments of the VERNONS, lords of Haddon, and their successors of the family of MANNERS and, winding through a rich and very beautiful valley, we arrive in sight of Haddon Hall. Before we enter this fine old Hall, however, we must ask the reader to glance at another route to Haddon that which he will probably take if his tour be made direct from London. No doubt many visitors to Haddon will start from DERBY ; and if the road from Buxton is charming, so also is that from the capital of the shire : it is more open ; the vales are wider ; the views are more extensive ; there are the same attractions of hill and dell, and rock and river ; cottages embosomed in foliage ; church steeples seen among richly-clad trees ; clean and happy-looking villages ; and distant towns, never indicated, except in one case that of Helper by the chimneys and sullen shadows of manufactories. For more than twenty miles the route is a continuation of scenic loveliness, such as, in its calm and quiet charm, its simple grace, and all the attractions of home nature, can be found nowhere else in the " wide wide world." Leaving Derby, and passing by the famous " 1 Head Cotton" manufactory of Messrs. Evans on the left, and Breadsall on the right, the first station arrived at is Duffield, a delightful village, where was once the castle of the Peverels, and so on to Belper, famous for its cotton-mills of the Messrs. Strutt Then forward through a delightful country to the pleasant Junc- tion of AMHKRGATE, from whence the railway runs by the picturesque village of Cromford, the creation of one great man, Sir Richard Arkwright ; Matlock Bath, with its pretty villa residences peeping from woods that clothe Abraham's Heights ; Matlock Bridge, whose hillside is studded with hydropathic establishments; and Darley Dale, with its interesting old church and grand old yew-tree, the 1. in the kingdom, until the train stops at ROWSLEY. Of the scene, when lo< across the beautiful valley from Stanton Woodhouse, Lord John Manners thus feelingly writes: * The "Chatsworth Hotel," at Kden-or, cl se by the park gates, a large and remarkably well-appointed inn, will be found a desirable resting-place, either for a short or long visit, by the tourist. t The principal inns at Dovcdalc are the " Peveril of the Peak " and the "Izaac Walton ;" t Ashbourne, the " Green Alan. ' Rowsley. Up Darley Dale the wanton wind In careless measure sweeps, And stirs the twinkling Derwent's tides, Its shallows and its deeps. * * * * O'er distant Matlock's lofty Tor A broken rainbow gleams, While the last ray of parting day Athwart the valley streams. The waving woods that crown the banks 'Bove Chatsworth's gorgeous pile, Repose in greenest gloom, nor catch The sun's departing smile." * * * * The " Peacock " The " Peacock " at Rowsley is one of the prettiest and plcasantcst inns in "all England :" neat, well-ordered, clean, and comfortable, it maybe accepted as a model. It has ever been in high favour with "brethren of the angle" long before the neat and graceful railway station stood so near it that the whistle of the train is audible a dozen times a day, and twice or thrice at night. The line old bridge close at hand throws its arches across the Penvcnt ; neatly anil grace- IlnMon IlalL fully trimmed gardens skirt the banks of that clear and bright river, into which flows the Wye about a furlong oft ; and rivers, meadows, rocks and dells, and hills and valleys " all round about," exhibit to perfection the peculiarities o f the vale, so rich in the beautiful and the picturesque. The ''Peacock" is the nearest inn to Haddon ; and here hundreds of travellers from all parts of the world have found, not only a tranquil resting-place, but a cheerful home. We have thought it well to picture it, and have placed at its doors one of the waggonettes that drive hither and thither from Matlock, Buxton, and other places ; and the tourist may rest assured that this pretty inn is indeed a place at which he may " rest, and be thankful." * At Rowsley the tourist is but about three miles from Chatsworth.t and two miles from Haddon. A pleasant walk through the valley brings him in sight of Haddon Hall ; and from this road he obtains, perhaps, the best view of it. Partly hidden as it is by tall and full-leaved trees, its grandeur is not at once apparent ; but the impression deepens as he ascends the steep pathway ami pauses before the nail-studded door that opens into the courtyard. Before we proceed to describe the HALL, however, it will be well to give our readers some account of its former owners the VERNONS reserving, for the present, the history of their successors, the illustrious family of MANNERS, from their origin, as knights, to the period of their high elevation, as Earls and Dukes of Rutland, and so down to the present time ; and also to put them in possession of a brief sketch of its history. The history of Haddon, unlike that of most of our ancient baronial residences, has from the first been one of peace and hospitality, not of war and feud and oppression ; and however much its owners may at one period or other have been mixed up with the stirring events of the ages in which they lived, Haddon itself has taken no part in the turmoils. It has literally been a stronghold, but it has been the stronghold of home and domestic life, not of armed troops ; and it posse therefore, an interest peculiarly its own. At the time of taking the Domesday survey, when the manor of I>ake\vell belonged to, and was held by, the king, Haddon was a berewite of the manor, and there one carucate of land was claimed by Henry de Ferrars. Over-Haddon, a village two or three miles off, on the hills, was also another berewite of the same manor. To whom Haddon belonged. in the Saxon period is not clear ; so that the first owner of which there is any distinct knowledge is this Henry de Ferrars, who held it in 1086, and who, by grant of the Conqueror, held no less than 114 manors in Derbyshire alone; built Duffield Castle; and founded the Church of the Holy Trinity, near the Castle of Tutbury. An album, kept at the inn, certains many distinguished names : among them is that of the poet Longlellow ; also the (t avellinj;) name of Maximilian, sometime En.peior of Mexico, \i-iio s,.cnt heie tl.c last night of his sleep in England, pievious to embarkation on his fatal voyage. t Fora full and profusely illustrated account of the "Palace of the Peak" see " Cliats- \vnrth" by Llewellynn Jewilt, F.S.A. ; it contains every possible information for the visitor, and is the only publication specially devoted to the sulject. Family of / ~cnion. ADDON was, at a very early period, held, it is said, by tenure of knight's service, by William Avenell, who resided there, and held much land in the neigh- bourhood. Of these, soon after the foundation" of Roche Abbey in 1147, William de Avenell, Lord of Haddon, gave to that establishment the Grange of Oneash and its appurtenances. One of the daughters and co-heiresses of William de Avenell, Elizabeth, married Simon Bassett, of the fine old family of Bassett, owners of much property in this and the neighbouring counties ; and the other married Richard de Vernon, and thus Haddon passed into that noted family, of which we shall now proceed to give some brief particulars. The familyof Vernon is of very considerable antiquity, and derives its name, as do many others in the baronage of England, from its primitive domicile in Normandy the chdtellenie of Vernon forming one of the territorial subdivisions of that country, and the castle, with its hereditary lords, being recorded in the Anglo-Norman chronicles. According to the present territorial division of France. Vernon is a commune in the department de 1'Eure and arrondissement d'Evreux; and, as being the chef -lieu, gives name to the canton in which it is situate. From this place, one of the most picturesque and luxu- riant of the vine districts, the family of Vernon take their origin ; and from them also is derived the fine old family of De Redvers the two families, indeed, being originally identical a name assumed by a Vernon in the eleventh century from the place of his residence, Re'viers, in Nor- mandy, and whose family were "Comtes des Re'viers and Vernon, and Barons de Nehou," and both tracing from the D'lvry stock. Mauriscus d'lvry (father of Robert d'lvry), who was father of Alselin Goel the names of whose sons, Roger Pincerna, surnamed the "Stammerer," Lord of the Castle of Grosseuvre ; William Lupellus (Lovel), who acquired the Castle of Ivry on the death of his elder brother; and Robert Goel, are so well known in history had a son, Baldwin, who took the surname of De Revers, from the place of his residence ; and two generations later, William, the son of Richard, assumed the name of Vernon, from the chatellenie of that name which he held. His son, Hugh de Revers, or Vernon, usually called Hugh de Monachus, had a son, William de Vernon, Lord of Vemon, who founded the Abbey of Montebourg. By his wife, Emma, he had issue two sons, Walter and Richard ; the latter of whom, Richard de Redvers, or Vemon, came over at the Conquest, and was created Baron of Shipbroke in Cheshire. He married Adelixa, daughter of William Peverel of Nottingham, and received with her in frank-marriage the manor of Wolleigh, county Bucks. One of their sons, Baldwin de Redvers, Arms of Vernon quartering Avenell. 8 Haddon Hall. was created Earl of Devon, and from him descended the line of earls of that name; while William de Redvers, who inherited the Norman baronies of Vernon, Rdviers, and Nehou, reassumed the surname of Vernon from those possessions. He had an only son and heir, Hugh de Vernon, Baron of Shipbroke, who married a daughter of Raynold Badgioll, Lord of Krdeswicke and Holgrave. By this lady he had a numerous issue; the eldest, Warm, continuing the barony of Shipbroke ; Matthew, inheriting the lordships of Erdcs- wicke and Holgrave, and ancestor of the Vernons of those places ; and Richard, with whom we have now to do. This Richard de Vernon married Avice, the daughter and co-heiress of William de Avenell, Lord of Haddon ; his other daughter and co-heiress marrying Sir Simon Bassett By his marriage with this lady Richard de Verron acquired Haddon and other estates, and thus became settled at Haddon Hall. He had issue an only daughter and heiress, who married Gilbert le Francis ; and their son, Richard le Francis, took the name of Vernon on coming into the property, and settled at Haddon. He married Mary, daughter of Robert, Baron of Stockport. His descendant, Sir Richard Vernon, Lord of Haddon and of Appleby, &c., married Maude, daughter and co-heiress of William de Camville, by whom he had an only son and heir, William Vernon, who was only ten years of age at his father's death in 1422, when he was found heir to his grandfather. In 1430 he obtained a grant of free warren from the king. He married Joan, daughter of Rhees ap Griffith, and heiress of Richard Stackpole, and had issue by her, Sir Richard Vernon, Knt., of Pembrugge (sometimes called Sir Richard de Pembrugge), Lord of Haddon and Tonge, which latter lordship he acquired by his marriage with the sister and heiress of Sir Fulke de Pembi or Pembridge, Lord of Tong, in Shropshire. Their son, Richard Vernon father of Richard Vernon, Treasurer of Calais, Captain of Rouen, and S] in the Parliament at Leicester, in 1426. By his wife, Benedict, daughter of Sir John Ludlow, of Hodnet, he had issue, with others, Sir William Vernon, Knt., who, marrying Margaret, daughter of Sir Robert Pype, of Spernore, acquired that manor and lordship. He was buried at Tonge, where a monument, as well as one erected at Montebourg, was placed to his memory. His son, or grandson, Sir Henry Vernon, was made Governor to Prince Arthur by King Henry VII., with which monarch he was a great favourite. 1 le married Anne, daughter of John, second Earl' of Shrewsbury, by Kli/abeth lUitler, daughter of James, Earl of Ormond. By this marriage he had issue, Sir Henry Vernon, who was made High Steward of the King's Forest in the Peak by Henry VIII., and held many other posts. He had issue two sons, Sir Gi Vernon and Sir John Vernon. Sir Henry died in 1515, and was succeeded by the eldest of his sons, Sir George, " the King of the Peak," who succeeded to the Haddon and other estates, as will be presently shown. Sir John Vernon, Knt., married Helen, daughter and co-heiress of John Montgomery, of Sudbury, in Derbyshire, with whom he received the Sudbury and other estates, and thus founded the family of Lords Vernon. lie was one pf the King's Council in Wales, and Custos Rotulorum of Derbyshire, and dying in 1540. was buried at Clifton Camville. He was succeeded by his son, Henry vernon, who, in his turn, was succeeded by his son, John Vernon, who married Family of Vernon. Mary, widow of Walter Vernon, of Houndhill, and daughter of Sir Edward Littleton, of Pillaton Hall, by whom, however, he had no issue. On his death in 1600, the estates passed to his stepson, Edward Vernon, the eldest son of his wife by her former husband, the family consisting of three surviving sons Edward, Thomas, and Walter and four daughters. By this lady, while a second time a widow, Sudbury Hall is said to have been erected. Edward Vernon was succeeded by his son, Henry Vernon, who married the sole daughter of Sir George Vernon, of Haslington, in Cheshire, and by her had issue a son, George, who succeeded him. This George Vernon was thrice married : first to Margaret, daughter of Edward Onely, by whom he had no issue ; and, third, to Catherine, daughter of Sir Thomas Vernon, Knt., merchant of London. By thir. lady he had a numerous family, and was succeeded by his eldest and sole-surviving son and heir, Henry Vernon, who married, first, Anne, sole daughter of Thomas Pigott, Esq., and heiress of her mother, who was sister and sole heiress of Peter Venables, last Baron Kinderton; and, second, Matilda, daughter of Thomas Wright, Esq., of Longston. Henry Vernon, who thus inherited the estates of the Venables, assumed that surname in addition to his own. He had issue by his first wife, among others, a son, George Venables-Vernon, by whom he was succeeded. George Venables-Vernon married three times. By his first wife, the Hon. Mary Howard, daughter and co-heiress of Thomas Howard, sixth Lord Howard of Effingham, he had issue a son, the second Lord Vernon, and a daughter, Mary, married to George Anson, of Orgrave, the father of the first Viscount Anson. By his second wife, Anne, daughter of Sir Thomas Lee, he had no issue ; but by his third wife, Martha, sister to Simon Harcourt, first Earl Harcourt, he had a numerous family, as will be rr,i /", -IT- i i -IT Arms of Lord Vernon, shown. 1 his George Venables-Vernon was created Baron Vernon of Kinderton in 1762, and at his death was succeeded in his titles and estates by the eldest son of his first marriage, George Venables-Vernon, as second Lord Vernon, who married, first, the Hon. Louisa Barbarina, daughter of Bussey, Lord Mansell, by whom he had an only daughter, who died unmarried ; and, second, to Georgiana, daughter of William Fanquier, Esq., by whom he had also an only daughter, Georgiana, married to Lord Suffield. His lordship was suc- ceeded in title and estates by his brother, the Hon. Henry Vernon, as third Lord Vernon. This nobleman whose brother Edward took the surname of Harcourt, and became Archbishop of York, and one of whose sisters, as has been shown, married the father of the first Viscount Anson, and another, Elizabeth, became the wife of George Simon, second Lord Harcourt married twice. By his first wife, Elizabeth K.ebecca Anne, daughter of Charles Sedley, Esq., of Nuttall, his lordship had issue two daughters (one of whom, the Hon. Catherine, died unmarried ; and the other, the Hon. Louisa Henrietta, married the Rev. Brooke Boothby, Prebendary of Southwell), and one son, George Charles Venables-Vernon, who succeeded him as fourth Lord Vernon. This nobleman married, in 1802, Frances Maria, daughter and heiress of Sir John Borlasc Warren, Bart., K.B., of Stapleford, by 10 Haddon Hail. whom he had issue, the Hon. George John Venables-Vernon, fifth Lord Vernon, who assumed the surname of Warren by sign-manual in 1837, for himself and the children only who should be born after that date. His lordship married twice : first to Isabella Caroline, eldest daughter of Cuthbert Ellison, Esq., M.P., by whom he had issue the present Lord Vernon, the Hon. William John Borlase Warren Venables-Vernon, who assumed the additional surname of Warren, and three daughters; and, second, in 1859, his cousin, Frances Maria Emma, daughter of the Rev. Brooke Boothby, who still survives him, without issue. Lord Vernon, as the Hon. George John Vernon, was M.P. for Derbyshire from 1830 until, on the death of his father, he entered the Upper House. He was one of the most energetic supporters of the rifle movement, being himself the most skilful rifle-shooter of his day, carrying off the principal prizes at the various Swiss Tirs, as well as elsewhere. As a scholar his lordship ranked very high, and the " Dante," edited by him, is the most sumptuous work of its kind ever attempted. Lord Vernon died in 1866, and was succeeded by his eldest son, the Hon. Augustus Henry Venables-Vernon, as sixth Lord Vernon, the present peer, who was born in Rome in 1829, and was Captain in the Scots Fusilier Guards, and Captain Commandant of the Second Battalion of Derbyshire Rifle Volunteers. His lordship married, in 1851, Lady Harriet Anson, daughter of the Earl of Lichfield, by whom he has issue two sons and four daughters. Having now shown the descent of the Lords Vemon from the old Lords of Haddon, we return to the "King of the Peak "Sir George Vernon and his heiresses. Sir George was, as we have shown, elder brother of Sir Henry Vernon, from whom the Lords Vernon are descended. He succeeded to the estates on the death of his father in 1515, and, at the time of his death in 1567, was possessed of no less than thirty manors in Derbyshire alone. He was married twice : first to Margaret, daughter of Sir Gilbert Taylebois, Knt. ; and, second, to Maude, daughter of Sir Ralph Langford, by whom he had no issue. He had issue by his first wife two daughters, his co-heiresses, Margaret and Dorothy, whose husbands inherited his immense possessions. Margaret Vernon married Sir Thomas Stanley, Knt, of Winwick in Lancashire, second son of Edward Stanley, third Earl of Derby ; and Dorothy Vernon, whose name has become a household word, married Sir John Manners, Knt, second son of Thomas Manners, Earl of Rutland, and direct ancestor of the present Duke of Rutland. Sir George Vernon lived at Haddon in such a style of princely magnificence and hospitality as to earn for himself the title all around of " King of the Peak." It is said that he was one of the most generous and hospitable, as well as just and strict of men, although given, perhaps, to undue severity and to an indul- gence in " Lynch law," and that he lived and died in the " good esteem " of most men. One tradition, briefly told, will sufficiently illustrate the firmness and decision of his character, and the power he held over the actions and even the lives of the people around him. It is related that a pedlar who had been hawking his wares jn the neighbourhood was found murdered in a lonely spot He had ly"ji seen the evening before to enter a cottage, and never afterwards seen alive. As soon as Sir George became aware of the fact of the crime having been committed, he Dorothy Vcnion. : i had the body of the pedlar removed to Haddon, laid in the hall, and covered with a sheet. He then sent for the cottager to come immediately, and, on hia arrival, at once questioned him as to where the pedlar was who was seen to enter his house the night before. The man denied having seen him or knowing any- thing about him, when Sir George uncovered the body before him, ordering that all persons present should touch the body in succession, at the same time declaring their innocence of the murder. The suspected man, when his turn came, declined to touch the body, and instantly rushed out of the Hall, and made his way, "as fast as his legs could carry him," through Bakewell and towards Ashiord. Sir George instantly ordered his men to mount and follow him, and to hang him wherever they caught him. The murderer was caught in a field opposite the present toll-bar at Ashiord, and at once hanged, and the field still bears the name of the " Gallows Acre," or " Galley Acre." Sir George is said to have been cited to London for this extraordinary piece of Lynch law, and when he appeared in court he was summoned twice to surrender as " the King of the Peak." To these he made no reply, and the third time he was called on as Sir George Vernon, vhen he stepped forward and acknowledged himself " Here am I ! " Having been summoned as the " King of the Peak," the indict- ment fell through, and Sir George was admonished and discharged. Sir George Vernon is buried in Bakewell Church, where a remarkably fine and well-pre- served altar-tomb bears the recumbent effigies of himself and his two wives. Dorothy Vernon, the younger daughter and co-heiress of Sir George, and over whom such a halo of romantic interest rests, was married to Sir John Manners before 1567. It is said that she was one of the most beautiful of all beautiful women, and possessed of so sweet a temper, that she was idolised by all who knew her. If it were so, however, the monument at Bakewell does not fairly represent her, for it exhibits her with an expression of countenance far from either amiable or attractive. The story of her life, according to popular belief, is, that while her elder sister, fortunate in an open attachment to Sir Thomas Stanley, the son of the Earl of Derby, and, becoming his affianced bride, was petted and " made much of," she, the younger, was kept in the background, having formed a secret attachment to John Manners, son of the Earl of Rutland an attachment which was opposed by her father, sister, and step-mother ; she was, therefore, closely watched, and kept almost a prisoner. Her lover is said to have disguised himself as a woodman, or forester, and to have remained in hiding in the woods around Haddon for several weeks, in order to obtain stolen glances of, and occasional brief meetings with, Dorothy. At length, on a festive night at Haddon tradition states it to have been on one of the " merry meetings " consequent on the marriage of her sister Margaret Dorothy is said to have stolen away unobserved in the midst of the merriment, and to have quietly passed out of the door of the ante-room on to the terrace, which she crossed, and having ascended the steps on the other side, or, as is also asserted, run down the steps from the terrace, across the lawn, and so down to the foot-bridge, her lover's arms received her ; horses were in waiting, and they rode oft in the moonlight all through the night, and were married in Leicestershire the next morning. The door through which the heiress eloped is always pointed out to 12 I lad don IlalL visitors as " Dorothy Vernon's Door." This we have shown in our initial letter on the first page. Thus the Derbyshire estates of Sir George Vernon passed to John Manners, and thus it was that the noble house of Rutland became connected with Haddon and the county of Derby. John Manners, the husband of Dorothy Vernon, was knighted shortly after his marriage. They had issue three sons : Sir George Manners, who succeeded to the estates ; John Manners, who died in 1 590, aged fourteen ; and Sir Roger Manners of Whitwell, who died in 1650; and one daughter, Grace, who became Uaddon Hall, from near ttie Difvecoie. the wife of Sir Francis Fortescue. Dorothy died in 1584, and her husband in 1611. They were both buried in Bakewell Church, where their monument will no doubt be looked upon with interest by all visitors to the district. The genealogy of the family of Manners, however, we reserve for a later portion of our Guide. Haddon continued to be one of the residences of this branch of the Manners family, ennobled in 1641 by the inheritance of the Rutland peerage, until they quitted it about 1699 for Belvoir Castle. The HALL stands on a natural elevation a platform of limestone above Lower Courtyard. the eastern bank of the Wye. The river is crossed by a pretty, yet venerable, bridge, passing which, we are at the foot of the rock, immediately fronting the charming cottage which is the lodge of the custodian who keeps the keys. In the garden we make our first acquaintance with the boar's head and the peacock shaped of late years from growing yew-trees the crests of the families whose dwelling we are about to enter. This cottage adjoins the old stables; then- antiquity is denoted by several sturdy buttresses. To the right of the great entrance-door are the steps placed there long ago to assist ladies in mounting their steeds, when ladies used to travel sitting on a pillion behind the rider. The custom is altogether gone out ; but in our younger days not only did the farmer's wife thus journey to market, but dames of distinction often availed themselves of that mode of visiting, carrying hood and farthingale, and hoop also, in leathern panniers at their sides, and jewels for adornment in caskets on their laps. The visitor now stands before the old gateway, with its massive nail-studded door, and will note the noble flight of freestone steps, where time and use have left the marks of frequent footsteps. Indeed, the top step just opposite the small entrance wicket in the larger door is actually worn through in the shape of a human foot. He will also notice the extreme beauty and elegance of design of the Gothic architecture of this part of the building, and the heraldic bearings with which it is decorated. Beneath the entrance archway on the right is the guard-room of the " sturdy porter" of old times. His " peep-hole " is still there, the framework of his bedstead, and the fire-place that gave him comfort when keeping watch and ward. After mounting the inner steps, the visitor passes into the first, or lower, courtyard, and will not fail to notice the remarkable character of the splaying and chamfering of the building in the angle over the inner archway. This is one of the most remarkable features in the building. Its strange character is to some extent occasioned by the winding of a double spiral stone stair- case leading to the tower over the entrance archway. The inside of this gate- way, with the enormous hoop hanging on the wall, said to have belonged to a mash-tub, is shown in our vignette. Having entered the lower courtyard, the visitor at once perceives that Haddon consists of two courtyards, or quadrangles, with buildings surrounding each. Immediately opposite the gateway are the stone steps that lead to the state apart- ments ; to the right is the chapel, and to the left the HALL proper, with its minstrels' gallery and other objects of curious some of unique interest, all of which we shall treat of in due course. The general arrangement will be best understood by the ground-plan, which, however, requires some explanation. On account of the abruptness of the slope on which Haddon is built, it stands so unevenly, that a horizontal line drawn from the ground in the archway under the Pevcrel, or Kagle, or King John's Tower, as it has been variously (ailed, would pass 07'er the archway of the lower, or north-west entrance from the old Haddon Hall. park. Consequently, that archway, the porter's lodge, and entrance to the spiral staircase on its right hand, and on the left the two rooms entered from the walk behind the partition wall, and before mounting the steps, form what may, looking at it in that light, be called a basement story, to which also belongs the cellar, entered by a flight of fourteen steps descending from the buttery. Lysons, in his " Magna Britannia," vol. v., engraves, first, a basement plan, comprising the entrance archway and the low rooms above alluded to ; second, a ground-plan ; third, a plan of the upper floor, including the ball-room and other state-rooms ; Entrance Gateway, Haddon Hall, from the Banks of the Wye. and the numerous bed-rooms and other apartments on the north and west sides. These plans are extremely correct and minute : it transpires from letters in the MS correspondence (Addit. MS. 9423, British Museum), that they were made by the surveyor of the late duke, to illustrate a little privately-printed account of Haddon, written by himself, and were lent to Lysons for his work by D'Ewes Coke, Esq., barrister-at-law, then steward to the duke. The designations given by Lysons to the apartments are, therefore, probably correct. From his lists, and a curious catalogue of the apartments at Haddon, date 1666, we gather the general inference that the rooms on the west side of the lower court were, in the latter General Arrangement. o days of its occupation, devoted to the officials of the household ; those on the entire south side were the state-rooms ; those on the east side of the upper court were the family apartments the bed-rooms extending down to the intersection General Plan of I fad Jon Hall. of the lower court ; those over the front archway, &c., were the nursery apart- ments ; and the library is believed to have occupied the rooms between these and the entrance tower. 1 6 Haddon Hall. There are second-floor apartments, not planned in Lysons, over the Tower and its adjoining rooms, and over one half of the north side, from that tower to the junction of the courts. Also solitary second-floor rooms in the lower Entrance Tower, Central Tower, and over the staircase leading to the ball- room. There is but one third-floor room ; it is in the Eagle Tower, and is the highest apartment in the Hall. The plan we engrave on the preceding page will be found the most useful to visitors. It gives the ground-plan irrespective of levels (which would only be bewildering to the tourist), with the exception of the slightly-elevated ball-room and state-rooms in the upper courtyard. In fact, from even these being entered from the terrace, the whole of the plan we have prepared may, for general pur- poses, be said to be that of the ground-floor. On the east side there are but slight differences between the ground-floor and first-floor rooms, excepting those over the kitchen and adjoining offices, and over the central archway. On the south side the differences are material. The ball- room covers six ground-floor cellar-rooms. The drawing-room is over the dining- room ; and the earl's bed-chamber and other rooms are over the long narrow ground-floor passages between that and the chapel, and the narrow room by the curtain wall. On the west side also the arrangement differs considerably. Some portions of the building are of undoubted Norman origin, and it is not unlikely that even they were grafted on a Saxon erection. Norman remains will be noticed in the chapel, and therefore it is certain that that portion of the building, as well as others which could be pointed out, is the same as when the place was owned by the Peverels and Avenells. Before the year 1199, John, Marl of Morteigne, afterwards King John, by writ directed to his justices, sheriiK bailiffs, ministers, and all his lieges, granted a license to Richard de Vern.m to fortify his house of Haddon with a wall to the height of twelve feet, without kernel (or crenelle, which was an open parapet or battlement with embrasures or loopholes to shoot through), and forbidding his being disturbed in so doing. This interesting license, now in possession of the Duke of Rutland, is as follows : " Johannes Com. Moret. justic. vicecom, baillivis, ministris, ct omnibus fklelibus suis salutem. Sciatis me concessisse et licensiam dedisse Ric, de Vern. firmandi domum suum de Heddon, muro exaltato xij pedibus sine kernello, et idem prohibeo nequis vcstrum eum inde disturbed Test. Rob. de Mara apud Clipstpn." It is endorsed " Breve patens Com. Johannis." The earliest portions of the buildings of Haddon now remaining appear to be a part of the chapel, and lower portions of the walls of the south Iront .iml of the north-east tower, and the room behind the screen in the lower courtyard. To the next period, from 1300 to about 1380 (according to Duesbury), 1) the hall-porch, the magnificent kitchen and adjoining offices, the great, or banquet- ing, hall, the lower west window and north arcade of the chapel, part of the north- east tower, and part of the cellarage under the long gallery. In the third period, from about 1380 to 1470, were added the east and part of the west end of the chapel, and the remaining buildings on the east side of the upper courtyard. The fourth period, from 1470 to 1530, comprises the fittings and interior finish- ings of the dining-room, the western range of buildings in the lower court, and General Arrangement. the west end of the north range. The fifth period, from about 1530 to 1624 seems to comprise alterations in the upper courtyard, the long gallery, and terrace and gardens; the pulpit, desk, and pews in the chapel ; and the barn and bowling- green. The juxtaposition of the kitchen and great hall show that they belong to the same period. The alterations since that period appear mainly to have been necessary repairs. The principal apartments of Haddon Hall are the Chapel; the Great, or Banqueting, Hall, with the Minstrels' Gallery and passage gallery occupying 'two Haddon Hall Principal Entrance. sides of it ; the Dining-room ; the Drawing-room ; the Earl's Bed-room and adjoining suite of rooms ; the Ball-room, or Long Gallery ; the Ante-room, from which Dorothy Vernon's door opens on to the terrace ; the State Bed-room ; the ancient State-room, or Page's Room ; the Kitchens ; and the Kugle, or Peverel, or King John's Tower. The entrance in this latter tower was the principal entrance to the Hall, and communicated with Rowsley and P.akexvell by an old road which still exists. It was the only entrance by which horsemen or carriages could enter the Hall. 1 8 Iladdonllall. The gateway by which visitors now enter being intended only for foot approach, mounted guests had to leave their horses at the gate. This entrance the one by which the visitor of the present day, like those of centuries ago, is admitted into the interior of Haddon we have engraved on the previous page. Entering by this gateway, and noticing the huge hoop which hangs on the wall to his right, the visitor enters, as we have already said, the first, or lower, courtyard, and will see around him the chief features of this once gay but now deserted mansion grand in its solitude, and attractive in its very loneli; ; and as he passes on from court to court, from room to room, from chamber to chamber, or from tower to tower, and peoples them in his imagination with the beings who have " lived and moved and had their being" there, he is ready to say : " Pleasant to see is this English hall Of the olden time, on a summer's day, Turret and tower, and buttress and wall Shining and shadowed in green and grey. Strange to think of those times of old. And of those who lived there, only a tale, Doubtingly, dimly, guessed and told, Of chatelaines fair and of knights in mail, Though the place remains where they lived and died, Seen, as they saw it, by you and me, The scenes of their lives, of their griefs and their piide Telling its tale unmistakably. The light still shines through the latticed pane As it shone to them, and the shadowed door Is the shadow they saw, and the stains remain Of the wine they spill'd on the da'is floor. The river that runs by the old Hall's walls Murmured to them as it murmurs now ; The golden glow of the sunset falls, As it fell for them, on glade, river, and bough : The hall where they feasted, the church where they prayed, Their cradles, and chambers, and gravestones, stay ; "\\ hile lord and vassal, youth and maid, Knight and lady, have passed away." The first room usually shown to visitors is the so-called CHAPLAIN'S ROOM, the first door on the right, after mounting the steps into the lower court. Jn this small room, and in the closet attached" to it, several objects of interest are preserved. Among these are a pair of remarkably fine fire-dogs, a warder's horn, gigantic jack-boots, a thick leathern doublet, some matchlocks, and some p< dishes. The cradle, until recently kept in this apartment, is now placed by the side of the state bed in the " State Bed-chamber." In this room, a few years ago, a remarkably curious and interesting washing-tally, engraved and described in the " Reliquary," was found behind the wainscoting. It is engraved on a later \ The CHAPEL, which, alter the so-called " CHAPLAIN'S ROOM," is the first j of the interior of Haddon Hall shown to visitors, is, as will be seen by refen to the ground-plan, at the south-west corner of the building. It consists, at present, of a nave with side ai.sles and a chancel, and is entered from the court- The CJiapel. 19 yard by an arched doorway opening into a small ante-chapel, or vestibule, through which the visitor passes. At the entrance is a stoup, or holy-water basin, and a staircase from the east end of the north aisle leads up to the rood-loft and turret. The arches and pillars of the nave are Norman ; but the arches have been cut from their original semicircular to their present pointed form, and the fine and highly characteristic capitals of the pillars cut and " shaved " down, and altered in character. Sufficient of these capitals, however, remains to show what was their original design. At the west end of the south aisle is a remarkably fine and large vestment chest of very thick timber, having carved on its front two shields of arms. The Chaplain's Room. Against one of the pillars is a circular Norman font of massive construction (see next page), on which is a curiously-constructed cover. The chancel is raised a little above the nave ; and on each side is a large high pew. with open railings in its upper portions. These have been used by the noble families who have inhabited the place ; and the carved panels, and the traces of gilding and colour they contain, show, along with the remains of paintings on the wills (which are of an earlier date than the pews), how magnificent must have "been this place of worship in its palmy days. 2O Hadtlon Hall. The chapel consists of a nave with two aisles of unequal width, and a chancel. The entire length of the chapel is 49 feet, the chancel being 28 feet long, and the nave 2 1 feet. Each aisle has an arcade of two pointed arches. The entrance to the chapel is on the north side, near to the west end. The different parts of the chapel appear to be of about the following dates, viz. : The south aisle, and centre circular column of its arcade, A.D. 1 1 60. The five windows of this aisle are each of a single light, and pointed. The capital of the circular column of the arcade has been cut so as to fit the arches subsequently erected over it. The lower west window, and the north aisle (except the doorway), and the north arcade, are about A.D. 1310. A window of this aisle formerly existed to the east of the doorway, but was blocked up when a staircase was made in the vestibule of the chapel, to give access to a small room. The chancel, the clerestory of the nave, and the south arcade, except the circular column, are of about 1425, at which time the glass of the east window was put in by Richard Vernon, as recorded in an inscription on the window itself. The bell-turret is supposed to have been erected by William, son of Richard Vernon, about 1455. The letter W, supposed to be his initial, is carved on the outside of its wall, toward the court- yard. The blocking up of the window of the north aisle, and the construction of the entrance doorway, may be of the same date. William Vernon married Margaret de Pype ; and the Pype arms are on one of the south windows of the chancel. The partial removal of the white- wash of the chapel walls in 1858 lol to several discoveries of the former arrangements of the building, and of the coloured decorations of the walls ; and, were it desirable, a complete restoration of the interior to its former state would not be difficult. There were two altars in the chapel one at the east end, as usual, and one under the east window of the south aisle. This latter was, no doubt, a chantry. The stone slabs which formed the tops of the altars still exist, and arc raised, to the extent of their thickness, above the floor : the east altar-stone is 8 feet by 3 fret, and is 8 inches thick, the edge being a fillet of 3 inches, and a chamfer ; the sur- face is so decayed that only one of its original five crosses patio- now remains. Km man Font in the Chapel. The 2T The altar-stone of the south aisle is 5 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 6 inches, the ed<*e showing a fillet and chamfer. The five crosses pattee on it are still perfect. The piscina in the chancel still remains, recessed in a fenestella. The sill of the south window, near the altar, is low, so as to form a sediha bench. In the middle of the sloping sill of the east window a step has been cut, The Chapel, looking East, no doubt for the crucifix to stand on ; and on each side of it is a similar step, probably for candlesticks. On the east wall, on each side of the window, is a stone bracket, probably to support an image. On the cast wall of the south aisle there is a bracket with a grotesque head, which was probably intended to support a figure. Thctv aiv sipis of a Iladdon Hall. bracket having existed on the north side of the altar ; and the base mould of a small column, which possibly supported its front edge, may be seen on a block of stone rising above the pavement. A very remarkable squint was discovered and reopened in 1859 in the south-west angle of the chancel, through which a view of the priest officiating at the chantry altar could be obtained from the rood-loft above. In the wall, opposite to this squint, is a doorway, which gave passage from the bell-turret to the rood-loft. The sill of this doorway is 13 feet 9 inches above the chapel floor. The bell itself is now (1871) in use at the new church at Rowsley. It had been taken down from the turret many years ago. Two fragments of the open-work of the rood-screen may be seen in the west ends of the chancel pews. They are carved in oak. The font, which is round and perfectly plain, is of the Norman period, and probably of the same date as the early part of the chapel. It is not in its original position. The stoup for holy water is near the entrance door of the chapel. The windows are not architecturally remarkable, but the glass is deserving of careful attention. It gives an excellent example of very good effect produced by very simple means, and excluding very little light from the interior. Each principal light in the east window, and each light in the head, has a single figure. The drawing, both in expression and in the grace of the drapery, is often very good. Yellow stain is extensively employed, but otherwise colour is sparingly though very effectively, used. There are no canopies or other architectural accessories. The quarries, forming the groundwork of the windows, come close up to the figures. There are eight patterns of quarries remaining, besides six birds, each of a different form. Most of these patterns are good, and the whole of them may be found in the east window, except one which is in the south-west window of the chancel. The east window has five lights. Much of the glass has been destroyed what remains was re-leaded in 1858, and arranged according to the originaj design. No new coloured glass was introduced, but some old quarries were collected from other windows of the chapel, and placed in the east window to complete the groundwork. In the centre light the figure of our Saviour on the cross is nearly perfect. In the next light, on either side, is a figure more or less mutilated, ajid each has lost the head. One of them represents the Virgin ; the other appears to be St. John, though, apparently through some mistake of the artist, he has the emblems of St. John the Baptist. The figures of the two . lights are entirely gone. The emblems of two of the evangelists remain. In the lights of the head are figures of saints, generally well drawn. Below the principal figures of this window are three shields of arms, supported by an-ds, gracefully drawn. These arms are, argent, a lion rampant gules, ducally crowned, or; argent, fretty, sable, a canton of the first ; and another shield, the bearing on which has been lost. At the bottom of the window are the remains of an inscription to Sir Richard Vernon and Benedict Ludlow his wife, as follows : Orate pro aiabus Ricardi Vernon et Bencdidte uxoris eius qui feccrunt and dJii mUesimo ccccxxvn. This Sir Richard Vernon, who was born in 1391, and succeeded his father in 1401, married Benedict, daughter of Sir John Ludlow The Chapel. 23 of Hodnet, and died in 1451. He was " Treasurer of Calais, Captain of Rouen, and Speaker of the Parliament of Leicester, in the fourth year of Henry VI. in 1426." Above the crucifix are the royal arms, quarterly, first and fourth France, second and third England. In the outer lights are a knight kneeling at a table, and fragments of an ecctesiastic. The flat-headed windows on each side of the altar, in the north and south sides of the chancel, have each three principal lights, and six lights in the heads, each containing the figure of an apostle, effectively drawn. The centre light of the north window has a figure of the Virgin being taught to read by St. Anne. To the right of this, as we face the window, is the figure Wall-paintings in the Chapel. of St. George slaying the dragon, and in the other light is the figure of St. Michael trampling on a six-headed dragon. Beneath there are three mutilated shields of arms of Vernon, &c., and in the bottom of the window are the remains of a candlestick or hour-glass stand. In the south window are the arms of Pype, azure, crucilly of cross-crosslets and two pipes in pale, or; and those of Vernon, argent, fretty, sable, on the dexter side of an impaled shield, the impalement on which is lost. Over the arms of Pype is the fragment of the original inscription, reading " Margareta Pype, vxo." The mural decorations, of which traces have been found, are of various character and of much interest. The oldest fragments are two running patterns, Haddon Hall. of good design. One is on the arches of the north arcade, and of the same date as the stonework on which it appears, viz., about 1310. The other, which seems to be of the same age, is on one of the jambs of the east window of the south aisle, over the altar. In this window there are traces of a figure, now almost entirely destroyed. Over the arches of the nave there are traces of two different designs, one on each wall. Both are much defaced. On the west wall of the nave there is a design consisting of a running pattern of rose branches and leaves, with red flowers of five petals. The stems and leaves are shaded grey and black. Traces of the same design have been found on the walls of the south aisle, and on the jambs of its west window. The date of this rose pattern is probably about 1427, when the glass of *hp east window of the chancel was put in. There is a pattern of green and dull red on the east wall of the chancel, and on the south wall is a very similar pat- tern, which enclosed four groups of figures, two on each side of the window over the sedilia bench. There is no border surrounding each group, but merely the diaper pattern. They are probably of the same date as the glass in the east window. The figures of these groups are generally effectively drawn, though with occasional exagge- ration and distortion. They are in distemper on the plaster, and are black, with the exception of some dresses, which are green. There are scrolls to each group, corresponding with the number of figures, but without any name. These groups had been much injured before they were covered with whitewash, and the injury appears as if partially intentional. The groups form a series of subjects, and commence with the upper group on the east side of the window. The subject is the presentation of the Virgin in the Temple by Joachim and Anna. The three figures remain. Below this is a group, much injured, apparently Anna teaching the Virgin to read, whilst Joachim stands by. Two of these groups are shown on the preceding page. The upper group on the west side is a Holy Family. The Virgin holds the infant Jesus in her arms; St. Joseph stands by; St John the Baptist raises his hands and eyes toward the infant Saviour. Below this is a group, much injured, with four scrolls, and apparently four Steps to State Apartments. Lower Courtyard. 2^ figures. A female figure, probably the Virgin, seems to be carrying a child, whilst a male figure follows behind. There seem to be indications of a fourth and small figure. The subject appears to be the flight into custom, the figure of St. John introduced. Traces of colour are found on the fenes- tella of the piscina, on the circular columns of the south arcade, and on the brackets near the altar. Leaving the chapel, the visitor will cross the courtyard to the BANQUETING-HALL ; but he will notice on his way a flight of stone steps, engraved on the preceding page, leading from the courtyard, near the doorway of the ante-chapel, up to the state apartments, so that the family could attend the chapel without passing through the hall, and could also, with their guests, be admitted at other times to their suite of rooms. In this courtyard he will also do well to take especial notice of the beautiful and intricate designs on the lead-work of the heads of the spouts many of which are filled with delicate Gothic tracery and the gar- goyles, or water-spouts, some of which are grotesquely carved in figures of curious cha- racter, and some of them of uncouth shape. One or two of these we have engraved. Entering the open doorway of the ad- vanced porch, which, with a wide passage adjoining, forms the way through to the upper, or second, courtyard, the visitor will notice, standing on Egypt, with, contrary to CAECIL1M5 PRAEFCCH Rinnan Altar, lladdon Hall. the stone bench on his 26 Haddon Hall. left hand, a fine Roman altar which, many years ago, was dug up near Bakewell. It bears the inscription, DEO MARTI BRACIAC/E OS(IT)TIVS CAECILIANVS PRAEF COH I AQVITANO V S The Lower Courtyard, with Entrance to the Banqueting-hall. Which may be rendered, " To the God Mars, Braciaca, Osittius Cxcilianus, Prefect of the first Cohort of the Aquitani, in performance of a vow " the term BrariaccE, as applied to Mars', being singular. To the left of the passage four arched doorways conduct respectively to the buttery, the great kitchen, and other domestic offices, and to a staircase leading to tb" long suite of chambers or the north side, and also communicating, by JJaii q lie/ ing- hall. means of a gallery in the banqueting-hall, with all the other apartments of the building. To the right is a massive and time-worn oak screen, with two open doorways, which divide the banqueting-hall from the passage. Entering by the first of these openings in the screen, the visitor will not fail to notice on the inner side of the screen by the door-frame to his right, at a height a little above his head, a suspicious-looking little iron instrument attached to two staples, one of which serves as a hinge, and the other to attach a lock to : this, tradition says, was an instrument of punishment for enforcing the observance of laws of con- viviality. For it is said, if, in the days of feasting and merriment in the " good old times," a man should fail to drink up his quota of liquor, he was fastened up by the wrist to this ring, and the liquor poured down his sleeve so as gra- dually to trickle down him on to the floor ; or, if guilty of any other breach of the law or decorum of the board, he was similarly tied up and compelled so to remain during the carousal, and was treated now and then not only with a stream of cold water poured down his sleeve, but by other indignities forced upon him. The BANQUETING-HALL, or GREAT HALL as it is sometimes called, mea- sures, within the screen, about 35 feet in length and about 25 in width, and it is of the full height of the building, with a modern timber roof taking the place of what must originally, from appear- ances remaining, have been one of re- markably fine character, with pendants, &c. It is entered, as has just been stated, by two open doorways in the screen which separates it from the pas- sage. This screen also forms the front of the MINSTRELS' GALLERY over the passage. The screen is beautifully panelled, each panel being headed with cinquefoil cusps, above which is other Gothic tracery of elegant design. At the opposite end from this screen is the raised dais for the lord and his family and honoured guests, where still stands the grand old table on which so many of the good things of this life have been spread in ages long since passed away. This table is one of the finest examples of its kind yet remaining anywhere in existence. It is now worm-eaten and decayed, like those who once feasted around it ; but still it stands, a proud monument of those ancient times so long gone by. Over the dais a modern window has been inserted ; and formerly a doorway, to the left of the lord as he sat in the centre of the large table, opened into what is now the dining-room, but in those days was the withdra\ving-room. To the right hand, on entering the hall, is the gigantic fire-place, with its huge open chimney ; and on the opposite side, at the end next the high table, a flight The Hand-lock in the Banqueting-hall. Hall. The Banqueting-hall, with the Minstrels' Gallery. Old Oak Table in the Banqueting-hall. Dining-room. 29 of steps leads up to the state apartments ; and close by, through a corner par- titioned off by the oak wainscoting, another door leads to the private dining-room and to the grounds. On the walls of the banqueting-hall are some magnificent stags' heads and antlers, which bear evidence not only of extremely fine growth, but of great age since they fell to the lord of the chase. There are also several pieces of old furniture ; and on the walls are oil-paintings of Martin Middleton of Hazelbadge, and of an old and favourite huntsman and gamekeeper honoured and respected retainers of the family. The galleried passage, of a later date, to the " minstrels' gallery," occupies one side, and the minstrels' gallery itself one end of the banqueting-hall that portion along the side forming a passage from the drawing-room and state apart- ments on one side to the range of rooms on the other. The portion of the gallery over the end of the hall is Considerably wider than the other, and would hold a goodly company of min- strels, or of guests, to look down on the " lord of misrule" and other revels below. In one of our engravings we show the panelled front of the min- strels' gallery, and in the accompanying vignette we give the entrance to the gallery from the drawing-room the doorway in the drawing-room being hidden by the tapestry which we have drawn at one side for the purpose. Passing out from the banqueting- hall, the visitor should next enter the DINING-ROOM, which is one of the most charming, and certainly one of the most interesting, apartments in the whole building. The end opposite to the entrance doorway is entirely taken up by a Gothic window of eight lights, filled with glass disposed in an elabo- rate geometric pattern. In some of the lights are shields of arms in stained glass, one of which displays the arms of Vernon, with its quarterings of Avenell, Pype, &c. &c. ; another, Ver- non only ; and another, Vernon im- Gallcried Passage to tlic Minstrels' paled. This room is wainscoted, the upper row of panels throughout the room being filled in with exquisitely-carved Gothic tracery and with heraldic bearings, \c. Over the centre of the fire ]>la< e are the royal arms of F.ngland (quarterly France and l-.iigland), witli the .supporters, a gr<.yli or) bvo bars, azure; augmented by a chief, quarterly, first and fourth azure, \.^Q fleur-de-lis, or (France), second and third gules, a \\onpassant-guardant, or (England). Crest, on a chapeau, gules, turned up, ermine, a peacock in pride, proper. Supporters, two unicorns, argent, horns, manes, tufts, and hoofs, or. Motto, " Pour y parvenir." When we broke off our narrative for the purpose of giving the preceding sketch of the genealogy of the noble family of Manners, to whom glorious old Haddon now belongs, we left our readers to revel in the midst of the beauties of the meadows and of the "wandering Wye." Having thus given them time for enjoyment while we dotted down for their after perusal this account of the family, we now proceed with our pleasant task. Having, then, given our readers as full an account as would appear necessary, both of the noble families to whom Haddon has belonged, and of the Hall itself, and told them as much of its history as will suffice for all purposes of the tourist, we take leave of this interesting pile, and proceed to speak of one or two matters con- nected with its immediate neighbourhood, before passing on to the fine old church at Bakewell, where lie interred so many of the families of Vernon and Manners. Haddon has been a prolific theme for writers, and an endless source of Ancient Relics. 55 inspiration for poets and artists, and long will it continue to be so, for no " olden " place can be more picturesque or more romantic. It is said that Mrs. Radcliffe was so struck with it, that she laid the scene of her " Mysteries of Udolpho " he're ; William Bennett took it and its hospitable owner, Sir George Vernon, as the subject of one of his most successful novels, " The King of the Peak ;" and Allan Cunningham, the Countess de Carabrella, and numberless other writers, have made it a theme for some of their pleasantest productions ; while D. Cox, Nash, Cattermole, Harding, Rayner, Morrison, and a host of other artists, have added to their reputations by painting some of its more attractive features. As may naturally be expected, in a neighbourhood so rich in interest as that of Haddon, some singular discoveries have at one time or other been made. Among these the Roman altar, already described, is perhaps the most important. The opening of barrows in the neighbourhood has brought to light many interesting remains of the ancient British period, and also of Romano-British times. These consist of interments in which have been found cinerary urns, drinking-cups, bone mesh-rules, flint implements, bronze celts, and other articles. Ring found in the Grounds of Haddon Hall. Some fine antlers, and parts of antlers, of the red deer one of which, with four points at the top, measured more than three feet along its outer curve, and was six and a half inches in medium circumference have also been found. But these are not the only remains of extinct animals found in the neighbourhood ; for those of the wild dog, the wild hog, the horse, the deer, the roebuck, the goat, and the ox both the Bos urus and the Bos longifrons all of which once ran wild in Derbyshire, have been found in the course of deep draining near the Hall, and preserved under the careful direction of Mr. Nesfield. Perhaps the most elegant relic yet discovered is the ring shown in our engraving, which is in the possession of his Grace the Duke of Rutland. It was found a few years ago, not far from the " Bowling Green," and is evidently of the fifteenth century, and is of extremely fine workmanship and elegant design. The hoop is wreathed, and has originally been enamelled, and bears between the foliage the inscription, in old English letters, " de boen cuer," which is one of frequent occurrence as a posy upon mediaeval rings, probably, in this case, meaning dc bon ccenr, and showing the hearty affection of the giver to the receiver. The little figure engraved on the besel is St. John the Baptist, with the Lamb enfolded in his mantle, and has most likely also been enamelled. It Haddon Hall. is probably a kind of charm-ring i.e., a ring supposed to possess physical or phylacteric qualities against epilepsy, the mal de St. Jean. It is of the purest gold, and weighs ninety-seven grains. Another interesting " find " was the Washing Tally already referred to, which is of the time of Charles I., and of extreme rarity. Of this Tally, as intimately connected with the inner and home life of Haddon, at the period of the height of its hospitality and glory, we give the accompanying accurate engraving, which is Washing Tally found at Haddon Hall. drawn of a somewhat reduced size. This very interesting relic is 5^ inches in length, and 4^ in depth. It is formed of a piece of beech-wood, a quarter of an inch in thickness, covered with linen on back and sides. Its construction is precisely that of a " Hornbook." In front, the names of the different articles of clothing are printed from a copper-plate, and protected by a sheet of horn. Around the edge, a narrow strip of thin brass, fastened down with highly ornamented nails, attaches the horn, the paper, and the linen to the wood. The " tally " is divided into fifteen squares, in each of which is a dial numbered from Bakewell Church. 57 o to 12, and above each square is the name of the article of clothing intended to be taken into account. These are " Ruffes," " Bandes," " Cuffes," " Hand- kercher," "Capps," "Shirtes," " Half-shirtes," " Bootehose," " Topps," " Sockes," "Sheetes," " Pillowberes," "Table-clothes," "Napkins," and "Towells." On each of the dials is a circular brass indicator, fastened by a little pin in its centre, so as to be turned round at pleasure. Each indicator is pierced on one side, close to the edge, with a round hole, through which one number only on the dial is visible at a time, and opposite to this hole is a raised point by which the indicator can be turned as required. Another little relic of Haddon " in the olden time " is a wooden vessel called, but of course without the slightest authority for the name, " Dorothy Vernon's Porridge -pot." It is a small basin, or bowl, of curious form, and evidently of great age, and may, doubtless, have held many a mess of porridge in its time We give an engraving of this interesting little relic, which, along with a rude rolling-pin, is in possession of Mr. John Sleigh, and was taken away at the time of the breaking up of the establishment at Haddon Hall by One of the retainers named Dale, in whose family it has, until lately, remained. A member of this family of Dale will shortly be named in connection with a singular ^-^^HH;. epitaph at Bakewell. n T f . ., . ... , TT ,, " Dorothy Vernoris Por- It may here be well to note, that although Haddon ri 'dg e p t." Hall is no longer used as a residence by the Duke of Rutland, he has within three or four miles of it a delightful shooting-box, Stanton Woodhouse, pleasantly situated, and charming in every respect, where he and others of his family occasionally sojourn. This and his other shooting- lodge, Longshawe, some distance across the moors of the same county, are two charming retreats for the sportsman. It may be mentioned, too, that at Rowsley, close at hand, is the splendidly-executed effigy of Lady John Manners and her infant, by W. C. Marshall, R.A. ; and that the bell which now calls worshippers to this modern church is the same that in its palmy days called the lords of Haddon and their retainers to their devotions in the chapel of the Hall, which we have in the previous pages described. Passing on from Haddon to Bakewell, the tourist will not fail to notice the Dovecote on a mound near the roadside, and from near this spot he will obtain one of the best and most charming views of the Hall to be gained from any point. BAKEWELL CHURCH, the burial-place of some of the members of the Vernon and Manners families, to whom Haddon Hall successively belonged, is nearly two miles distant from Haddon, and may be seen on looking up the valley of the Wye. Bakewell is a pleasant and remarkably clean little market-town, built on the banks of the Wye ; there are several good public buildings in the town itself, and many substantial residences in its neighbourhood. It is, however, to the church only that we now desire to call attention in a short description. It is a cruciform building, of about 150 feet in length from west to east, aud about 105 feet in width across from wall to wall of the north and south transepts, Haddon HalL with a noble tower and spire. It contains some extremely fine Norman and Early English features, and is lofty and remarkably well-proportioned. In the centre rises the tower, the lower part of which is square, and the upper octagonal, with the angles boldly chamfered, and this is surmounted by a lofty spire. There can be no doubt, from remains which have been found, that a Bake-well Church. church had existed on this spot from very early pre-Norman times. In Domes- day Survey it is stated there were two priests for the church of Bakewell. was afterwards made a collegiate church. It was granted by William the Conqueror to William Peverel, his natural son, but was, with the other immense possessions of that family, forfeited by attainder by one of his descendants in IM4. It remained in the possession of the Crown till it was given by Richard I., Vernon ChapeL 59 on his accession to the throne in 1189, to his brother, John, Earl of Morteigne, afterwards King John. To him is traditionally ascribed the rebuilding of the nave (with the exception of the west end, which he is said to have left standing), and its endowment ; but it is more probable that it was built and endowed by a Peverel, who gave part of the Bakewell tithes to Lenton Priory. In 1192 Earl John gave the church, with all its prebends and other appurtenances, to the present cathedral of Lichfield. In 1365 a chantry was founded in the church by Sir Godfrey Foljambe and Avena his wife, whose beautiful little monument will be seen on one of the piers of the nave. The nave, which was erected probably about mo, was, until a few years back, separated from the side-aisles by semicircular arches, rising from piers of solid masonry instead of pillars. At the west end is a fine Norman doorway ornamented with beak-head mouldings and other characteristic features. The church was extensively repaired and restored in 1841, when numerous very interesting remains were brought to light. These included an extensive series of incised sepulchral slabs of very early date, bearing crosses of various forms, and many interesting devices ; several ancient crosses used as head-stones ; a considerable and extremely beautiful assemblage of fragments of encaustic paving tiles; and several fragments of coped tombs, and of crosses with the interlaced ornament so characteristic of the Saxon period ; as well as many stone coffins and sculptured fragments of mouldings, capitals, &c., belonging to the more ancient edifice. Of these curious remains, all that he could secure were, thanks to the zeal and care of Mr. F. Barker, preserved in the porch of the church, and consist of considerably more than fifty incised slabs some of which are perfect, and others in fragments and perhaps a score or two of other stones. It is also stated, and is much to be regretted, that at least four times the number of sculptured stones preserved were rebuilt into the walls during the alterations, so that, including a number taken away and now preserved at Lomberdale, there must have been from three to four hundred found. In the same porch a selec- tion of the ornamented paving tiles is also preserved : among the patterns are many of extreme beauty and elegance. The font is also deserving of especial notice. It is octagonal, each of its sides bearing a figure beneath a crocketed canopy. A fragment of another ancient font will be seen in the porch. The part of Bakewell Church, however, with which we have now particu- larly to do is the VERNON CHAPEL, in which, divided from the south transept by a beautiful open oak screen, lie buried the later Vernons and the earlier members of the Manners family connected with Haddon. This chapel was, it appears, erected "late in the Decorated period, about 1360, upon the walls of the former chapel. The Early English half-pillars at each extremity of the arches had been retained, and were very beautiful examples, well worthy ot imitation. The hollows of the mouldings, up to a certain height, being filled with bold roses, capitals in a different style were afterwards added to suit the decorated arches. The central pillars, with their central clustered shafts, are of singularly elegant design ; the tracery of the windows partakes of the flamboyant character. The upper part of the buttresses was also altered to correspond with Haddon HalL the new work." It will bear comparison with any structure of the kind in England, and has been rebuilt in good taste. In the centre of the Vernon Chapel stands a fine altar-tomb, bearing the recumbent effigies of Sir George Vernon, the " King of the Peak," and his two wives, Margaret Taylebois and Maude Langford. This tomb is an extremely beautiful and characteristic example of the elaborately-decorated monuments of the period to which it belongs. Along its sides, under a series of canopied arches, are figures bearing shields of the arms of the Vernons and their alliances, and those of the families of his two wives. Sir George is habited in plate armour and surcoat, and wears a straight long beard and straight hair. He has a double chain and a sword. The inscription on this interesting tomb is as follows : _ " Here lyeth S r George Vernon, Knight, deceased ye - daye of - - an 1561, and dame Margaret his wyffe, daughter of Sir Gylbert Tayleboys, deceased ye - daye of -- 156 ; and also dame Mawde his wyffe, dawght r to S r Ralphe Langford, deceased ye - - daye of -- anno 156 whose solles God pdon." The inscription, it will be seen, has never been finished, the blanks for the dates not having been filled up. The surcoat worn by the knight is elaborately emblazoned with his own arms with all its quarterings ; and, taken altogether, this is a remarkably fine and interesting monument. At the south end of the chapel stands, to visitors to Haddon, perhaps the most interesting of its monuments. It is that of Dorothy Vernon, about whose elopement we have already discoursed, and her husband, Sir John Manners, with their children. This lady, it will be recollected, was one of the daughters and co-heiresses of Sir George Vernon, whose monument we have just been describing, and his first wife, Margaret Taylebois ; and. by her marriage with Sir John Manners, she conveyed Haddon Hall and the other Derbyshire estates of the Vernons to the family of Manners, to whom they still belong. This monu- ment we, for the first time, engrave on the next page. It is a large and very imposing-looking erection. At the top, in the centre, is a large shield, bearing the arms of Manners with its sixteen quarterings, and on either side is an obelisk ornament, one of which bears the arms of Manners, and the other of Vernon. Beneath these are a bold cornice and ornamental frieze, on which again occur three shields with the arms, respectively in the centre Manners impaling Vernon, and on one side Avenell, and on the other Roos. This cornice and frieze surmount a semicircular arch, beneath which are the kneeling figures, facing each other, of Sir John Manners, in plate armour, and his wife, Dorothy Vernon, in close-fitting dress, with cap, and frill or ruff around the neck. Between them there is a pedestal, bearing the following inscription :- " Here lyeth S r John Manners, of Haddon, Knight, second sonne of Thoas, Erie of Rutland, who dyed the 4 of June, 1611, And Dorothie his wife, one of the daughters and heires to S r George Vernon, of Haddon, Knight, who deceased the 24 day of June, in the 26 vere of the raigne of Queen Elizabeth, 1584." Above the pedestal is a large shield, with quarterings of the armorial bearing? of the families of Manners and Vernon and their alliances ; the shields bearing the sixteen quarterings of Manners, differenced with a crescent impaled with the twelve quarterings of Vernon. On the spandrels are also shields of arms, the Vernon and Manners Momiments. 61 one bearing Manners quartering Roos and two others ; and the other, Vernon quartering Avenell and two others. The lower part of the monument contains four figures of the children of Sir John and his wife Dorothy (one of which, however, is a restoration), and two shields, the one bearing the arms of Manners, and the other those of Vernon. At the opposite or north end of the chapel is a much larger and more pre- Monument of Sir Jolm Manners and his Wife, Dorothy Vernon. tentious monument, that of Sir George Manners, son and heir of Sir John Manners and Dorothy Vernon, and of his wife, Grace Pierrepoint. At the top is a large shield bearing the arms of Manners with its sixteen quarterings, and on each side is an obelisk. Beneath these is a massive and bold cornice, supported on Corinthian pillars, forming a recess in which is a semicircular arch, elaborately carved, and over it the inscription, " The day of a man's death is better than 62 Haddon Hall. the day of his birth." Under this arch and cornice are the effigies of Sir George Manners and his wife, kneeling, and facing each other, while between them is a double desk, or lectern, on the front of which are the words " Thy prayers and thine alms are gone up before thee," and a shield bearing the arms of Manners impaling Pierrepoint. Behind the figures, on a tablet, is a Latin inscription, which has been thus translated : " Sir George Manners of Haddon, Knt., here waits the resurrection of the just in Christ. He married Grace, second daughter of Sir Henry Pierrepoint, Knt., who afterwards bore to him four sons and five daughters, and lived with him in holy wedlock thirty years. She caused him to be buried with his forefathers, and then placed this monument, at her own expense, as a perpetual memorial of their -conjugal faith, and she joined the figure of his body with hers, having vowed their ashes and bones should be laid together. He died 23rd April, 1623, aged 54. She died ." Sir George is represented in armour, and his lady is habited in close dress, with ruff, hood or coif, and long veil. Beneath the figures of the knight and his lady, the monument is divided into two heights, each of which is formed into an arcade holding the effigies of their children. The upper arcade consists of four semicircular arches, with shields of armorial bearings in the spandrels. Within the first of these arches is the effigy of the eldest son a " chrisom child " who died in infancy, and is, as usual, represented bound up, mummy fashion, in swaddling-clothes ; in the second, tue kneeling effigy, in armour, of John Manners, who ultimately succeeded to the title of eighth Earl of Rutland ; and in the third and fourth, those of two of the daughters. In the lower arcade, which is formed of five archways, the first two being semicircular and the remaining three pointed, are respectively the kneeling effigies of Henry Manners, who died at the age of fourteen, and is habited as a youth ; Roger Manners, in armour ; and three daughters. In the spandrels of the arches, as in the upper arcade, are a series of shields with armorial bearings. Over the nine arches are the nine inscriptions as follows : Over the " chrisom child," " Mine age is nothing in respect of thee ; " over the son and heir, " One generation passeth and another cometh ; " over the youth Henry Manners, " My days were but a span long ; " over the fourth son, Roger, " By the grace of God I am what I am;" over the daughters, beginning with the eldest, "A virtuous woman is a crown to her husband," " The wise woman buildeth her house," " A gracious woman retaineth honour," " A prudent wife is from the Lord," and " She that feareth the Lord shall be praised." On the pedestal, by Sir George, " Christ is to me both in death and life an advantage;" and on the opposite one, by his wife, " I shall go to him, he shall not return to me." The arms on the shields are those of Manners, differenced with a crescent ; Pierrepoint ; Manners impaling Montague ; Sutton impaling Manners ; Howard impaling Manners ; and the other alliances also impaled. On the wall is a memorial to John Manners, son of Dorothy Vernon and her husband, Sir John Manners, with the inscription : " Heare lieth buried John Manners, gentleman, third son of S r John Manners, Knight, who died the xvi day of July, in the yeere of our Lord God 1590, being of the age of 14 yeers." The most ancient, and certainly one of the most interesting, monuments in Memorial Windows. 63 the church is that of Sir Thomas de Wendesley, or Wensley, of Wensley, who was killed at the battle of Shrewsbury in 1403. It is an altar-tomb, with the recumbent effigy of the knight in plate armour, wearing the conical helmet 01 bascinet, and camail or tippet of chain mail, with gussets of the same at the arm- pits. His girdle, which is exceedingly rich, encircles his hips ; the sword is lost, but the dagger remains. His surcoat is emblazoned with his arms, and he wears the collar of SS. On the front of the helmet is inscribed IHC NAZAREN. In the chancel is an altar-tomb to John Vernon, 1477, the inscription on which runs as follows : " Hie jacet Johis Vernon films et heres Henrici Vernon qui obiit xii die mensis Augusti Anno Dni Mo cccclxxvii cuj anime piciet de ; " and in the Vernon Chapel is an incised slab, with the arms of Eyre. In the nave is a small but exceedingly beautiful monument bearing the half- length effigies, side by side, under an elaborately-crocketed canopy, of Sir Godfrey Foljambe and Avena his wife. The knight is represented in armour, with conical helmet or bascinet, and tippet of chain mail ; his surcoat bearing the arms of Foljambe. The lady wears a reticulated caul. In each of the spandrels is a shield, the one bearing the arms of Foljambe, the other that of the family of Ireland, of Hartshorne, to which the lady belonged. There are several tablets and inscriptions in various parts of the church which are worthy of a passing glance, and there are also some memorial stained-glass windows of good design. Among these is one in memory of the late Duke of Rutland, representing the Resurrection, bearing the following inscription : " The above window was erected, by subscription, in memory of John Henry, Duke of Rutland, who died aoth January, 1857, aged seventy-nine years." Others are put in to the memory of the late Mr. Allcard, Mr. Jonathan Wilson, and others. Before leaving the interior of this fine old church, it will no doubt interest the visitor to be told in fewer words, and more correctly than could be gleaned from the strange tales sometimes told in the place, the story of the uncovering of the remains of Dorothy Vernon, her husband, and other members of the family, during the rebuilding and alteration of the church. When the excavations were commenced on the site of the monument of Sir John Manners and his wife Dorothy Vernon, the remains of two persons, supposed to be the knight and his lady, were found ; the skull of the one was identified as that of Sir John, by its peculiar form and its likeness to his sculptured effigy ; that of the other, which lay near it, with beautiful auburn hair still attached, among which were some pins that had been used to fasten it, was naturally, and no doubt correctly, considered to be that of the once lovely Dorothy. In another part three children's leaden coffins were found, but not opened, and the bones of an infant (probably the " chrisom child " represented on the tomb of Sir George Manners) were discovered rolled up in a sheet of lead. These, no doubt, were the children of different members of the Manners family. A leaden coffin was also found which contained the body of a lady. The part of the lid over the head had been violently torn away the piece of the sheet of lead being missing and this coffin was carefully and thoroughly examined. The body had been buried in lime, but the part of the lid had been torn off, the head cut off, taken out, and surgically examined, and 6 4 Haddon Hall. then hastily replaced, but with the face downwards. The rest of the body was undisturbed. Several other bodies were, of course, found, as were some few other interesting matters which require no notice here. In the churchyard, near the east wall of the south transept, stands one of the finest so-called " Runic crosses " in the kingdom. It is, exclusive of the modern pedestal, about eight feet in height : the upper limb of the cross is broken off. Of this fine old cross we give an engraving. The front of the cross, which in bad taste has been turned towards the wall, is sculptured in four heights, with figures beneath arches, the upper group being the Crucifixion : the whole, however, is much defaced. The opposite side, the one shown in our engraving, is boldly sculptured, with a beautiful scroll-pat- tern of foliage terminating at the top in an animal, and at the bottom in a cross within a circle ; on the head is a figure on horseback. The sides of the cross are sculptured in scroll-work of foliage, of much the same design as the side just described : the end of one of the limbs bears an interlaced ornament, and the other a figure. This cross, and the one at Eyam, a few miles distant, are among the most perfect and beautiful remain- ing examples of the early period to which they belong. If the tourist still wishes to linger for a few minutes in the churchyard, he will find much to interest, to please, and to amuse him. To interest him in examining the external features of the church, espe- cially the Norman doorway and arcade, formed of fragments of Norman work, c., at the west end, and the beautiful doorway of Early English design on the south side, as well as the stone coffins grouped together in one coiner. To please him, in the magnificent view he obtains of the surrounding country, es- pecially of the valley of the Wye as it runs its zigzag course towards Haddon ; and to amuse him in reading the strange verses which occur on some of the grave-stones which crowd around him on every side, and in the church itself. One or two of these he will, no doubt, wish to copy, for their quaintness ; so, to save him trouble, we here transcribe them. One, to the memory of a former parish clerk and leader of the choir, reads as follows : Ancient Cross, Bakewell Churchyard. Curious Epitaphs. 65 ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF PHILIP ROE, WHO DIED I2TH SEPTEMBER, 1815, AGED 52 YEARS. " The vocal Powers, here let us mark, Of PHILIP, our late Parish Clerk In cnurch, none ever heard a Layman With a clearer Voice say Amen ! Oh ! none with Hallelujah's Sound, Like Him can make the Roofs resound. The Choir lament his Choral Tones, The Town so soon here lie his Bones. Sleep undisturbed, within thy peaceful shrine, Till angels wake thee with such tones as thine." Another long inscription to the memory of John Dale, barber-surgeon, of Bakewell, and his two wives, Elizabeth Foljambe and Sarah Bloodworth, 1737, thus curiously ends : "Know posterity, that on the 8th of April, in the year of grace, 1737, the rambling remains of the above said John Dale were, in the 86th yeare of his pilgrimage, laid upon his two wives. " This thing in life might raise some jealousy, Here all three lie together lovingly, But from embraces here no pleasure flows, Alike are here all human joys and woes ; Here Sarah's chiding John no longer hears, And old John's rambling Sarah no more fears ; A period's come to all their toilsome lives, The good man's quie. ; still are both his wives." Another reads as follows : " These lines, I with watery eye, For my dear friend indite, "Who for his worth, none such on earth, Heaven crown him with true light. " A lawyer just, a steward most just, As ever sate in court, Who lived beloved, with tears interred, This is his true report." Another, locally said to have been written by Charles Wesley, brother to the founder of Methodism, reads as follows : " Beneath, a sleeping infant lies, To earth whose body lent, More glorious shall hereafter rise, Though not more innocent ; When the Archangel's trump shall blow, And souls to bodies join, Thousands shall wish their lives below Had been as short as thine." It may be as well to note that the principal inn at Bakewell is the " Rutland Arms ;" it is a family hotel, but there are also the " Castle " and other comfortable inns in the place. Opposite the " Rutland Arms " are the baths and bath- gardens. The baths, which were known to the Romans, have the reputation of being efficacious in rheumatism. 66 Haddon Hall. Having already very briefly alluded to the routes by which Haddon Hall may be visited, both from Buxton on the one hand, and from Derby on the other, and having then spoken of some of the attractions of Buxton, it may be well now to say a few words regarding Matlock Bath, through which the visitor will pass by rail on his journey from London, from Derby, or from the North. MATLOCK BATH is about seven miles from Haddon Hall ; and, exclusive of its baths, which are as famous as those of Buxton, and for the benefit of which the invalid may pass the season pleasantly and profitably, it has attractions of scenery which no other inland watering-place can boast. Its " High Tor," rising The High Tor, Matlock Bath. almost perpendicularly to a height of about 400 feet above the liver Derwent, which flows at its base ; its " Lovers' Walks," winding along by the side of the river, and zigzagging up the mountain side ; its " Heights of Abraham " and " Masson " towering over the valley; its "romantic rocks," and its many caverns ; its " petrifying wells," its " grottoes," and its other attractions, render Matlock Bath a place of delight to the tourist ; while the surrounding district, rich in minerals, in ferns, and in other botanical specimens, and full of gorgeous scenery, is " passing beautiful," and will amply repay the pleasant labour of exploring. Mat lock Bath. At Matlock Bath the principal hotels are the "New Bath," "Walker's Terrace Hotel," "The Temple," and " Hodgkinson's," and the place swarms with lodging- houses and all things to attract and to keep the tourist. From Matlock delightful day-trips may be made to Haddon Hall, to Hardwick Hall, and to Chatsworth, the " Palace of the Peak " the princely seat of the Duke of Devonshire ; to Dovedale, with its glorious scenery, and its pleasant associations with old Izaak Walton and Charles Cotton ; to the Via Gellia and its surroundings ; to Lea Hurst, the early home of Flo- rence Nightingale ; and to numberless other places of interest all eabily at- tainable by railroad or carriage. The Railway Station is conveniently placed near to the High Tor, and there are abundance of trains both ways every day. Well-appointed carriages for hire are abun- dant for those who wish to drive, while boats may be had by those who wish to " dip the smooth oar" into the glassy sur- 1 face of the river. And now we take our leave of grand old Haddon. But first let us give thanks to the noble owner the Duke of Rutland that he freely opens its gates to all comers, keeps it in a state of neatness and order, and takes especial care that Time shall make no further inroads on the man- sion of his ancestors. Preserving it for the enjoyment of all who seek instruction and pleasure there ; permitting them to make of one of its rooms a dinner-room for the day ; rendering it, by all these faci- lities, the common property of the public ; and by his occasional presence ascertaining that all is done that can be clone for their happiness while in its grounds or within its walls his Grace thus practically comments on the exhortation and protest of the Poet-laureate " Why don't those acred sirs Throw up their parks some dozen times a year, And let the people breathe ? " and shows that he, as well as his princely neighbour at Chatsworth his Grace the Duke of Devonshire has pride in making his treasures available for increasing the happiness of the people. The Rutland Cavern, Matlock Bath. J-KiM'h.U BY J. 8. V1KTUK AKU CO., LIM1TK1), CITY KOA1), MONTHLY, rRICE 'IS. OL). ***t "ohSHLI " Artistic in tone from the first page to the last." The Times. " Raising its long-established emi- Daily Telegraph. " Exceptionally good engravings and etchings." Athencetim. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. LD-URI DEC 14 19 Form L9-10tn-l,'52(9291)444 tt -. Haddon Hall liLJLJ3L_lfi fift UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACIUTY DA 66h