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JOURNAL 
 
 STJTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6, 
 
 AND ALSO OF 
 
 LORD HARDINGE'S TOUR 
 
 IN 
 
 THE FOLLOWING WINTER, 
 
 JAMES COLEY, M.A., 
 
 CHAPLAIN TO THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY. 
 
 LONDON : 
 SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL, 
 
 1856. 
 
PS4 
 ' 
 
 MENRY MORSE STEPHENS 
 

 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 I WAS on leave at Simla, in the autumn of 1845, 
 having been driven there by a dangerous illness 
 at Canpoor, and was rapidly recovering my 
 health in that delightful sanatarium, when I was 
 appointed Chaplain to the Governor-General, Sir 
 Henry Hardinge, then on a tour through the 
 Upper Provinces. I felt that my new position 
 would be one of peculiar responsibility, and I 
 prayed and resolved earnestly to be faithful in 
 my sacred ministry, whatever the people might 
 be, whom I was about to join. 
 
 The First Part of this Journal was written 
 between December 3, 1845, and March 23, 1846; 
 the greater portion of which period was immor- 
 talized by the memorable Sutlej campaign. I did 
 not write for publication, or what I have written 
 
 511628 
 
IV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 would have been less imperfect than it is. But I 
 have since been induced to think, that to offer my 
 Journal, such as it is, to the perusal of others, 
 may, perhaps, be of some use ; that it may be the 
 means of communicating some information relative 
 to that eventful time, and not obtainable from 
 other sources, that will be of interest, especially 
 to those who care for such intelligence, as I, from 
 the nature of my office, might be supposed likely 
 to give. Everyone, that was eye-witness of any 
 of the scenes of that period, would, of course, 
 make his own observations for himself, and there- 
 fore have a separate tale to tell. I, also, had my 
 own peculiar sphere of observation, more limited, 
 indeed, in some respects, but at the same time one, 
 that in other respects was calculated to give me 
 an advantage. In a picturesque country, different 
 travellers fix their eyes upon different objects ; 
 in an engaging book, different readers are struck 
 by different passages. So, in a campaign, the 
 soldier gathers materials for one narrative, the 
 civilian for another, the minister of religion 
 
INTRODUCTION. V 
 
 for another. My acquaintance with the details 
 of the battles and those circumstances, upon which 
 the military writer would mainly dwell, was not 
 sufficiently accurate to enable me to note them 
 down; and, if it had been, I should have sup- 
 pressed them in sending my Journal to the press, 
 because they have already been given to the 
 world by others much more competent to relate 
 them, than myself. What therefore will distin- 
 guish my brief record is this ; that in addition to 
 a cursory allusion to such occurrences and scenes 
 as might attract the notice of a general observer, 
 I have mentioned things, the cognisance of which 
 either fell exclusively within my sphere of duty, 
 or would probably be taken but by very few, or 
 which from the nature of my vocation or opinions, 
 or bent of mind, pressed themselves upon my 
 attention; and moreover I have given free and f 
 unreserved expression to such religious thoughts 
 and reflections, as could not but arise in a Chris- 
 tian's breast, or at least arose in mine, on various 
 occasions. My only regret is, that such reflections 
 
VI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 were not more full and frequent than they 
 were. 
 
 I ought to say, that I have altered the original 
 Journal in some places, where a re-perusal of it or 
 subsequent experience or information may have 
 suggested the necessity of so doing; that I have 
 omitted many notes of a private and uninteresting 
 kind; and that here and there I have appended 
 remarks entirely new, the posterior date of 
 which will speak for itself. I must add, that the 
 First Part of the Journal was originally printed, 
 nearly in its present state, in the Calcutta Christian 
 Intelligencer. I have made some omissions and 
 some alterations, and added some notes. 
 
 The Second Part of the Journal, or that written 
 during the tour in the cold weather of 1846-7, 
 now published for the first time, describes more 
 tranquil scenes, and circumstances more congenial 
 to the spirit of a " minister of God and steward of 
 the mysteries of Christ," wounded and vexed though 
 still this spirit too often was by many objects and 
 causes of offence ; inasmuch as it exhibits, in the 
 
INTKODUCTION. Vll 
 
 blessings attendant upon British rule and govern- 
 ment, a refreshing contrast to the miserable con- 
 sequences of anarchy and political and moral 
 profligacy, as well as to those horrors of warfare 
 and bloodshed, which are so frequently necessary 
 for the introduction of peace and the establish- 
 ment of civil and social order. 
 
 I do not profess an exact acquaintance with 
 civil statistics and such matters ; and this must be 
 my apology, should any inaccuracies be detected 
 in any statements I have made or on dits I have 
 recorded. 
 
 Oriental words I have written in English 
 characters and as they are, or ought to be, pro- 
 nounced in English : for, if I had written them in 
 Oriental characters, they would not have been 
 understood by the generality of English readers ; 
 and, if I had merely Anglicised the Oriental 
 letters, the words would have been mispronounced. 
 An accent (') placed over a vowel signifies that 
 the pronunciation is broad, or as of the same 
 vowel in French. In " Proposals for a Missionary 
 
Vlll INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Alphabet" by Professor Max Miiller, and in " Das 
 allgemeine linguistische Alphabet" by Dr. Lepsius, 
 we have the promise of some uniform system of 
 orthography for Oriental names in Occidental 
 characters ; and truly it is a, great desideratum, 
 on the supposition of its^unanimous adoption by 
 Missionaries ; but yet I fear that the generality of 
 readers would never take the pains to learn and 
 understand it. 
 
 J. C. 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6, 
 
 PART I. 
 
 1. DEPARTURE FROM UMBALLA. 
 
 DEC. 3rd, 1845. I joined the Governor-General's 
 Camp at Umballa. I have a single-poled tent 
 next above the Commissariat-Officer's in the 
 Governor-General's street: the food for the soul 
 and the food for the body being, I suppose, 
 thought best in juxta-position, as the one cannot 
 go on without the other ; though for some reasons 
 I should have thought it a more correct arrange- 
 ment, if they had been placed opposite each other. 
 My tents are provided for me by Government free 
 of all expense, which is a great advantage, but 
 nothing more than is due to an Assistant Chaplain. 
 A camp like this is a novel spectacle to me ; and 
 
SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 to belong to it, quite a new life. Pitched on good 
 ground and with the main street as smooth as a 
 bowling-green, it is an exceedingly pretty sight. 
 I believe I am an entire stranger to all the 
 members of the camp, except the Quarter-Master, 
 whom I recollect at Canpoor. 
 
 4th. I had the honour for the first time of 
 dining with the Governor-General. A very large 
 party in two splendid tents, the one serving for 
 drawing-room, the other for dining-room. No 
 grace was said: owing perhaps to the noise and 
 confusion of so large a party sitting down. After 
 dinner I was introduced to the Governor-General 
 by Mr. Carrie, Secretary to Government. The 
 Seekhs are talked about ; but the general opinion 
 seems to be, that there is not much probability of 
 a war. The Governor-General's exquisite band 
 played during dinner. 
 
 5th. We marched out of TJmballa and halted 
 on the other side of the river Guggur, a distance 
 of about six miles. 
 
 6th. (Sunday.) I am glad to hear that the 
 
DEPARTTJBE FEOM UMBALLA. , 3 
 
 Governor-General always halts on Sundays. We 
 halted to-day. I had prepared for Divine Service ; 
 and at 10 o'clock the Governor- General sent me 
 word that he wished Divine Service to be held in 
 his tent at 11. I found one of the durbar-tents ( a ) 
 very suitably arranged for the purpose : chairs on 
 each side, a table and chair at one end for the 
 Governor-General and a table and chair at the 
 other end for me, which I think is at least quite as 
 good a substitute for a pulpitum, as the military 
 apparatus of a drum-head or what may be called a 
 " drum ecclesiastic." I read the Morning Prayer 
 and Litany and, having retired to exchange the 
 surplice for the gown, discoursed upon Tit. ii. 11, 
 12, 13, 14. As there is no psalmody to fill up the 
 interval, it is my intention to read the Communion- 
 service only on those occasions, when the Sacra- 
 ment of the Lord's Supper is administered. For 
 the same reason I shall discontinue the change of 
 robes and wear my surplice during the sermon. 
 As I have delivered a sermon in my gown once, 
 ( a ) Durbar, a court or hall of audience. 
 
4 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 I trust the congregation will not take alarm. The 
 congregation was small : this might possibly be 
 owing to the shortness of the notice given. There 
 was no more Divine Service to-day in the Gover- 
 nor-General's tent ; but I availed myself of another 
 tent for the purpose of evening, or rather afternoon, 
 Service and sent round a notice to the members of 
 the camp; very few however^attended. I dined 
 with the Governor-General. ^/M^W^ 
 
 /*&0^ 
 
 ~ * 
 
 'idafeyaaE^^^ 
 
 ^'^^ 1 A 4 /f\ *f ll \ ^~f\ ft A T\ m} t ^ ^ /*)!" '/ i-J J ^ f) A \/ A /llOC ^ *T^ 
 
 &#i&XFXKfi^^ 
 
 <4&%$&S3&^ 
 
 ._ >-' - - 
 
 8th. Rdjpoora. A march of ten miles and a 
 very uninteresting road. 
 
 9/i. Patarsee, eight and a half miles. 
 
 10/i. Sirhind, nine miles. This is a place of 
 ruins. I saw one fine ruin, that of a musjid ( 6 ). 
 ( 6 ) Musjid, a mosque. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM UMBALLA. 5 
 
 Ahmad Shah, the Affghan Governor of Lahore, 
 defeated the Seekhs here in the year 1762. The 
 following year the Seekhs sacked Sirhind and 
 reduced it to the ruin it is now and killed the 
 Governor, Zyne Khan. One of the most perfect 
 vestiges of Mahommedan dominion in this part of 
 the country is the coss-mindr, or large conical 
 pillar erected along the road-side at the distance 
 of every coss, ( c ) corresponding to our mile-stone. 
 I understand that these coss-minars extended from 
 Delhi to Lahore. The mornings are very cold 
 and the early riding exercise very delightful. I 
 ride alone and live alone all day ; but indeed I 
 cannot call it solitude, so long as I have my books 
 to read and my Lord to commune with. If I 
 were deprived of this independence, I should be 
 much more lonely ; to be dependant on the world 
 for happiness, " this, this is solitude, this is to be 
 alone." 
 
 ( c ) Coss, 2 English miles. 
 
2. COMMENCEMENT OF THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 llth. LusJikur Khan ki Sardi, 11 miles. Here 
 the road parts : one branch takes to Loodiana, the 
 other to Ferozepoor ; this however to Ferozepoor 
 being, I understand, a short cut rather than a 
 regular road. The Governor-General went over 
 to Loodiana in his carriage, to inspect the force 
 there, and returned in the afternoon. He has a 
 palanquin-carriage drawn by four mules, which is 
 very well adapted for the primitive roads in this 
 part of the country: they are anything but 
 carriage-roads and in many places mere sandy 
 lanes. 
 
 13th. The order was given, as usual, to halt 
 on Sunday ; but in the course of the day intelli- 
 gence being brought to the Governor-General 
 that the Seekhs had crossed the Sutlej, subsequent 
 orders were issued to march to-morrow morning. 
 
COMMENCEMENT OF THE CAMPAIGN. 7 
 
 The surprise in camp is great : for, though 
 rumours of their hostile intentions have been long 
 prevailing and growing louder and louder, it was 
 not expected that the Seekhs would carry their 
 arrogant menace into execution; it was looked 
 upon as the mere bravado of a blustering threat, 
 which would pass off without harm, as similar 
 demonstrations had done in 1843 and '44. It 
 seems however to be anticipated that they will 
 not give us much trouble, nor keep their ground 
 long, and will soon have cause to repent of their 
 folly. Their attitude, till now, has been something 
 like that of the Goths in Illyricum, hovering on 
 the borders of the western Empire and ready to 
 embrace the opportunity of Theodosius' death 
 for an incursion ; or like that of the Saracens, at 
 the outset of their career, rushing from the 
 Arabian desert and threatening Syria with an 
 invasion, but advancing only to retire; it now 
 remains to be seen, whether the comparison will 
 hold much farther or not: whether these infuriated 
 barbarians will still go on, as they boast, and 
 
SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 accomplisli their design and bring over our 
 dominions a tempest of desolation like that, which 
 the Goths carried into the western Empire in the 
 beginning of the 5th century and the Saracens 
 into the eastern in the beginning of the 7th. 
 That we, as a nation, deserve such a chastise- 
 ment, there can be no doubt; yet nevertheless 
 JUT; yevoiro. 
 
 I4:th. (Sunday.) Gunguss, 10 miles. This 
 has been an unusual sabbath to me; but, so far 
 as the marching is concerned, the case is one of 
 evident and undoubted necessity, and " the Son of 
 man is Lord also of the sabbath." There has 
 been no Divine Service, nor any thing outward 
 to remind one of the day. All is excitement and 
 anxiety about what is to happen. In the midst of 
 all which however I hope that private and secret 
 prayers will not be forgotten, and that fervent 
 supplications will go up to the throne of grace 
 from him and for him, who occupies the most 
 responsible -position in the direction of our affairs, 
 that the Divine guidance and blessing may be 
 
COMMENCEMENT OF THE CAMPAIGN. 
 
 vouchsafed to all his councils at this important 
 crisis. I dined with the Governor-General : horses 
 and swords were the principal topics of discourse, 
 a little relief to which I experienced in conversing 
 with one of the company about Bishop Middleton on 
 the Greek Article, of which work he truly observed, 
 that it answers many of the objections of infidels. ( d ) 
 l5th.-^Luttdlah } 12^. miles. At this place the 
 Governor-General's camp has been joined by that 
 of Sir Hugh Gough, the Commander-in-Chief, 
 who has come from Umballa by forced marches. 
 Every day now assumes a more military aspect. 
 The ladies, who were marching with the camp 
 in anticipation of a peaceful and delightful tour, 
 have been very prudently required to leave it and 
 retire to Umballa, Meerut, and other stations out 
 of the way. 
 
 ( d ) Upon the whole however throughout the campaign 
 it was remarkable how much general conversation was 
 sustained, and with what affability and readiness the 
 Governor- General himself, as well as others, discoursed 
 in the evening upon a variety of topics quite unconnected 
 with the all-absorbing subject of the day. 
 
10 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 I6th. Wudnee, 30 miles. I have only one 
 horse, though scarcely large enough to be dignified 
 with the name; but he seems to be an inde- 
 fatigable creature : he has carried me this long 
 march at a good pace, and appears none the worse 
 for it. At a village on the road called Busseah 
 a concentration of our forces took place. Thence 
 we marched all together to Wudnee. This is a new 
 and interesting sight to me, the marching of an 
 army. I feel a sort of enthusiasm in beholding 
 it, and in reflecting, that it is not an aggressive 
 army fired with blood-thirstiness and the lust of 
 conquest and plunder, but a Christian army going 
 forth in a holy cause, for the assertion of justice 
 between nation and nation, and for the defence of 
 our country, our rights, and our Sovereign against 
 the unprovoked attack of an insolent and lawless 
 enemy. The Governor-General has, I believe, 
 issued a proclamation, calling upon all in the 
 protected Seekh states, and all, indeed, on either 
 side of the river, that will, to place themselves 
 under British protection, and warning them against 
 
COMMENCEMENT OF THE CAMPAIGN. 11 
 
 the consequences of refusal. The people of 
 this village have manifested that they are hostile 
 to us, and that they are under Seekh influence, 
 and acknowledge no other protection than that 
 of Lahore. 
 
 On our arrival this morning, the fort was manned 
 with armed Seekhs, who made what demonstration 
 they could. They fired with their match-locks at 
 Count Oriolo, but missed him. Count Oriolo is 
 one of the staff of Prince Waldemar, who has 
 attached himself to the Governor-General's suite 
 in expectation of witnessing an engagement between 
 the British and Seekh forces. He is attended by 
 another count, and by a German surgeon. When 
 I arrived, not a single tent was visible, and no one 
 could tell me where the Governor-General's party 
 was to be found. In this perplexity I rode round 
 and round for about an hour, till my eye was 
 caught by something like a table and chair in the 
 corner of a tope, or small grove of trees, and then 
 by the Governor-General and Commander-in- 
 Chief and a few others, with some parchments 
 
12 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 before them, engaged in grave consultation. Near 
 this spot our tents were pitched in process of time, 
 most of us having to wait till the afternoon. In 
 the course of my wanderings this morning, I 
 passed twice under the fort, and attempted once 
 to enter, but the gate was shut, and a man from 
 inside told me there was no admission. This I did 
 in perfect ignorance of the state of things. The 
 villagers looked sour and surly; nor did I like 
 the appearance of the men with their match-locks 
 at the top of the fort. I asked them where the 
 Lord Sahib ( e ) was ; in answer to which they 
 growled something, the only word of which I 
 could comprehend was " Farungee."^) They did 
 not fire at me, though I was quite alone ; and had 
 it been an hour or two earlier, I might have 
 encountered the same sort of salutation as 
 Count Oriolo, and, perhaps, not have escaped 
 so well. 
 
 ( e ) The name, by which the natives call the Governor- 
 General. 
 
 ( f ) Commonly pronounced faringee : the g is hard. The 
 word means an European. 
 
COMMENCEMENT OF THE CAMPAIGN. 13 
 
 My luggage comes up now-a-days about nightfall. 
 I have, therefore, a good appetite by the time of 
 its arrival, not however without having first gone 
 through the diversion of a head-ache during the 
 heat of the day, which is with me the invariable 
 effect of hunger. I have no conveyance for my 
 luggage but a hackery, or bullock-cart, which 
 has no chance against these long marches and 
 heavy roads. Had I been an experienced cam- 
 paigner, I should have done what I could at 
 Umballa to procure camels ; but it is too late 
 now for correcting such mistakes as these : 
 so I must be contented with my present slow 
 4eam of three oxen and one buffalo, and learn 
 from them a lesson of patience, for I think 
 they are the most patient of all beasts. 
 
 17 'tli. Chirruk, 10 miles. We know nothing 
 of what is going on at Ferozepoor, the dak ( flf ) 
 communication having been cut off by the Seekhs. 
 But I believe, that, when the Governor-General 
 last heard from Sir J. Littler, the General com- 
 (?) Post. 
 
14 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 manding the Ferozepoor force, Sir John assured 
 him, that he entertained no fear whatever about 
 himself, and was confident that he should be able 
 to defend his post. 
 
15 
 
 3. BATTLE OF MOQDKEE. 
 
 18th. MoodJcee.-*-! saw no Quarter-master's 
 order-book to-day, and therefore do not know the 
 distance of the march, but I should say about 
 twenty miles. We had a long time to wait for 
 our tents. This place has nothing to distinguish 
 it, except the memorable event which has occurred 
 to-day in its neighbourhood : it is a common mud 
 village. Before we arrived here, a messenger 
 met us on the road to announce, that the enemy 
 was advancing towards us. The army was 
 ordered to halt and form for battle. We were all 
 in good spirits and in breathless expectation: I 
 felt the eagerness of a soldier. I should have 
 had a good view of the commencement of the 
 combat, as the Governor-General and Staff were 
 in front. But, shortly after, another message 
 being brought to inform us that it was a false 
 
16 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 alarm, the army was ordered to march. On our 
 arrival at the village, we heard that the Seekh 
 army was within five miles of us ; but some said 
 that they did not believe one word of the report. 
 Many have thought all along, that the Seekhs 
 would run away as soon as ever they heard of the 
 approach of our army; but Major Broadfoot's 
 opinion has been, that the probabilities were in 
 favour of a battle. The villagers here refusing 
 supplies, the village was sacked. Before our 
 arrival, an Officer of the name of Biddulph, with 
 four Seepahees, and one Nayak(^), who were 
 marching alone to Ferozepoor, apparently uncon- 
 scious of the state of affairs, were fallen upon and 
 taken prisoners and confined in the fort, together 
 with their horses and camels ; and Captain B. 
 was afterwards carried off no one knows where. 
 This story I heard related by one of the four 
 Seepahees, who seemed to be in a dreadful fright. 
 The Governor-General was sitting under a tree 
 with a table and official papers and boxes before 
 
 ( h ) Corporal in a native regiment. 
 
BATTLE OF MOODKEE. 17 
 
 him, till his tent was ready. He is an old soldier, 
 and therefore accustomed to the rough work of 
 such times as these. During the march I have 
 seen him sit on the ground under a tree, waiting 
 for the troops to come up. It is the same for all, 
 from the lowest to the highest. None of us are 
 allowed more than one tent, as of course no tents 
 can be sent on a-head ; and many are obliged to 
 double up. But there is a diverting excitement, 
 which prevents such inconveniences from being 
 felt as hardships. I do not know what they may 
 be to the lady, whom I observed with astonishment 
 here this morning on horseback, in the midst of 
 the troops, with no bonnet nor hat on. Who she 
 is, or what brings her here, I cannot imagine. 
 There is a large pool here, which was quite a 
 picturesque sight when filled with soldiers, who 
 rushed into it up to their middles the moment 
 they arrived, to quench their thirst. Most of 
 them looked fagged and exhausted, and some of 
 the Europeans as if readier for the hospital than 
 for the field. This circumstance renders the' 
 
 C 
 
18 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 victory of to-day still more wonderful, and must 
 force a religious mind to acknowledge, that in the 
 midst of our weakness the strength of the Lord 
 of Hosts has been signally illustrated. 
 
 We were all quiet in our tents, anticipating that, 
 when we arrived at Ferozepoor, we should join Sir 
 J. Littler's force and then fall upon the enemy, or, 
 if they had retired across the river, pursue them 
 into the Punjab; nothing was seen or heard of 
 them, except another report, that they were close 
 upon us, which however was discredited as having 
 no foundation, and was even treated with ridicule 
 and contempt by some, who from a spot of rising 
 ground had tried in vain with telescopes to discern 
 symptoms of its truth; when suddenly about 4 
 o'clock P.M. we were surprised by a loud firing of 
 artillery, which sounded as if it were approaching 
 nearer and nearer. The Governor-General was 
 instantly on his horse and galloped into the field. 
 We were all there in almost as short a time, as it 
 takes me now to record the fact ; as Sir Walter 
 Scott would say. Unless I had been positively 
 
BATTLE OF MOODKEE. 19 
 
 ordered to do so, I know not how I could have 
 remained behind in camp along with the wonder- 
 fully apathetic bearers and khidmutgars (*) et hoc 
 genere omni; indeed, I was carried out of it by 
 a sort of irresistible instinct, and my little horse 
 was as fresh as a lark, notwithstanding the long 
 march he had come in the morning. I could not 
 discover, which way the Governor-General and 
 staff had gone, and found myself among the party 
 of the Commander-in-Chief, who just at that time 
 came galloping up from his tent. One officer 
 asked me whether I was prepared for the battle, 
 and another offered me a sword, which I declined, 
 being just as likely to cut off my own head, as any 
 one else's. I went in search of the Governor- 
 General's party. By this time our forces were all 
 out in battle-array, and I had a good view of our 
 artillery unlimbering and opening fire, and also of 
 the flashes from the enemy's guns among the trees 
 and bushes : a tree jungul, about three or four 
 miles from our camp, being the awkward ground 
 (*) Domestic servants. 
 
20 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 they had taken up for their position. Several of 
 the enemy's balls dropped near me, and my horse's 
 legs had a narrow escape. The artillery-firing 
 soon ceased ; and I thought I should see 110 more 
 of the battle. I felt disappointed : for I wanted 
 to "be in some position, whence I could command 
 a view of the whole and watch the progress of the 
 battle, and whence I could observe the manoeuvres 
 of the field and the principles of military science 
 in practice, just as one observes the movements of 
 two chess-players. This was impossible from the 
 flatness of the ground, and also from the dust. I 
 could only picture to myself the close combaf of 
 
 TTlKpOC AlTTTJp VtlKtWV OrjKTOC GlSapOC WfUlO(j)p(*)V 
 
 (T/CapoCj and how Sopimva/croc aiOfip tTri/naivtrai. 
 I spoke to some of the 3rd Dragoons, who had just 
 come out of the fray, and they said that the enemy 
 were running away towards the river, and that 
 their cavalry, though some of them fought bravely, 
 , could only fight by dismounting from their horses, 
 and lifting their swords with both hands at once. 
 I soon fell in with the Governor-General and suite. 
 
BATTLE OF MOODKEE. 21 
 
 It was now growing dusk, and the enemy appeared 
 to be retreating, though they had not given in and * 
 the conflict still raged, as it retired. Here I soon 
 found myself in an unexpected position, and one, 
 that none but a soldier could desire. " Every 
 battle of the warrior is with confused noise and 
 garments rolled in blood." Underneath our feet, 
 as we rode along, were scattered the bodies of 
 men, horses and camels, some gasping and others 
 dead, while the wounded were groaning piteously 
 and calling out for help, which we could not give ; 
 above and about our heads were whizzing bullets 
 and cannon-balls in all directions, creating in me, , 
 I must say, a very unusual sensation. Mr. Currie 
 remonstrated with the Governor-General for thus 
 exposing himself to danger and importunately . 
 begged. him to leave the field; but Sir Henry 
 seemed to think differently and gave no heed to 
 the advice. I suppose it was imprudent in the 
 Governor-General, considering his station, and the 
 importance of his life at such a crisis as this ; and 
 I should be inclined to say, that even in a 
 
22 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 Commander -in -Chief such self -exposure was a 
 thing to be avoided for the reason, which 
 Alexander's advisers used to urge: " ov yap 
 GTparriyov ravra, aXXa trrpanwrou aval." At the 
 same time, from what I observed, it struck me 
 that Sir Henry's presence was of great advantage 
 in preserving the confidence and directing the 
 movement of a part of our force. What astonished 
 me most was the confusion, which prevailed. But 
 the dust and the lateness of the hour prevented 
 one from seeing very far. The battle lasted till 
 nearly dusk, and the enemy were driven back as 
 far as Loham, a village about 3 miles from 
 Moodkee. It was quite dark before I reached my 
 tent; and in returning home I was warned to 
 keep at as great a distance, as I could, from the 
 trees, lest I should be potted at by some evil- 
 designing lingerer on the field. This must have 
 been the way in which Captain Munro was shot : 
 for the wound, just the size of a bullet, is on the 
 top of his shoulder, and the bullet has entered in 
 a vertical direction and most probably lodged in 
 
BATTLE OF MOODKEE. 23 
 
 his spine, as he has no sensation below the middle 
 of his back. I have been attending upon him in 
 his tent and had no dinner. This has been a long 
 and eventful day. It is horrible work and makes 
 one long for the time, when wars shall cease, &c. 
 Glory to God, that the battle is over and the 
 victory ours ! Perhaps it will be an opening for 
 the introduction of the Gospel into another country, 
 and thus the Prince of peace will be magnified. 
 
 19th. I have no wish to see another battle, 
 though I do not regret having seen this ; once is 
 enough. I have not been to visit the field to-day; 
 but those, who have, say it is a horrid spectacle. 
 The Seekhs have been very quick in carrying off ^ 
 their dead ; and we are doing all we can to give 
 to ours decent burial. Many brave men have 
 fallen, and many a soul has departed unprepared 
 for the world to come. I believe that the mortality 
 on our side might have been much less ; so at 
 least they, who are the best judges, seem to think. 
 I hear that our Sipahees, or some of them, had 
 the fault of firing too high, so as to miss their ^ 
 
24 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 enemies and shoot over their heads ; but there 
 seems to be no question, that they did not always 
 give too great an elevation to their muskets 
 yesterday, and that they made the dreadful mistake 
 
 of killing some of our brave Europeans uncon- 
 
 i' 
 
 sciously no doubt : such was the confusion ! 
 
 Another instance of which confusion 1 must here 
 record, viz. that one line of Sipahees was just on 
 the point of firing in the face of the Governor- 
 General and of us, who were with him, when 
 Colonel Benson rode forward and stopped them: 
 there was nothing else to fire at. The Governor- 
 General is as cool on the field, as I am now, while 
 writing this. During the battle the Seekhs were 
 beating a sort of drum or tom-tom (*) to keep 
 their courage up, I suppose, as clowns whistle in a 
 dark night and women sing when grinding at a 
 
 (*) This use of the drum is very ancient and said to have 
 been originally commemorative of an institution of Bacchus, 
 when he visited India. Arrian says, Kai QZOVQ . akfitiv on 
 tdida%t kiovvaog d\\ov^ re Kai paXivra fit} iwvrbv Kvp,(3a\i%ovra 
 Kai TV}nraviZ,ovTa.G were ical dq A\t%avdpov in VTTO KvufiaXwv 
 TE Kai Tv^nrdvit)v ra p,d%a Ivdovc KaOiffravQai. Hist. Ind. 
 vii. I heard no cymbals at Moodkee. 
 
BATLLE OF MOODKEE. 25 
 
 mill. All however confess, that they fought very . 
 bravely. Their number is supposed to have been 
 about 50,000. (*) We are in possession of seventeen 
 of their guns, and others are said to be hid in wells. 
 Our troops have been kept under arms all day in 
 consequence of a report, that the Seekhs were 
 coming back upon us. It is hard work for the 
 poor fellows ; but the victory has cheered their 
 spirits and the excitement keeps them up. Several 
 of the Europeans have told me, that yesterday 
 they were quite foot-sore from marching, but that, 
 from the moment they entered the field, they felt 
 no more of it. I think that what they accomplished 
 yesterday is perfectly wonderful, when we contrast 
 the exhausted state they were in from fatigue and 
 fasting and also their paucity (a mere handful) 
 with the freshness and superior force of the enemy. 
 Captain Hardinge, Sir Henry's youngest son, had 
 a narrow escape in the battle : he found himself, I 
 hear, on the wrong side of the field. 
 
 (i) The correct numbers are now well known, but the 
 above was the supposition at the time. 
 
26 SFTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 20th. Yesterday and to-day I have been burying 
 the slain, i. e. as many as I have been requested 
 to bury. Major Herries, Aide-de-Camp to the 
 Governor-General, has been buried in his tent, and 
 the Governor-General attended his funeral. ( m ) 
 Other officers are buried under trees in the most 
 retired spots we could select near the camp. Many, 
 if not most, of the men have been buried on the 
 field by their comrades, and some left unburied, 
 the prey of dogs and vultures. The sick and 
 wounded are quartered inside the fort of the village 
 in tents, and a few in places like stalls for oxen. It 
 is a melancholy scene of suffering broken legs 
 and broken arms, wounds in all parts of the body, 
 groans of agony, cadaverous countenances, and so 
 great a dearth of medical attendance, that many 
 
 ( w ) An elegant mural tablet has since been erected in the 
 church at Barrackpore, where the Governor- General often 
 resides, to the memory of Major Herries, of Captain Munro, 
 another Aide-de-Camp to Sir H. Hardinge, who died from 
 a wound received in the battle of Moodkee, and of Major 
 Somerset, also an Aide-de-Camp, who was mortally wounded 
 at Ferozeshahr. 
 
BATTLE OF MOODKEE. 27 
 
 of the poor men declare, that up to this time no 
 surgeon has once visited them. 
 
 Mr. Currie came to my tent to tell me, that the 
 Seekhs have not yet given in, that they have 
 taken up a position about eighteen miles off, and 
 that our army is to go out to-morrow to attack 
 them. He expressed his regret at my being 
 exposed to such personal danger, a contingency 
 not foreseen when I joined the camp. We both 
 felt that our own lives are in imminent jeopardy, 
 and we both agreed that, if our army be beaten, it 
 will be a just national chastisement, and that 
 altogether it is an awful crisis calling for most 
 earnest prayer. My hopes, however, are very 
 buoyant. 
 
 Captain Biddulph has returned, having been 
 set at liberty by the barbarians as soon as they 
 heard of our victory here, and has told us all 
 about their camp, where they carried him to, and 
 how they kept him bound with a chain, &c. He 
 has also given us some idea of the number of their 
 guns, and the order in which they are disposed. 
 
28 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 He is clothed in a long red garment, which the 
 Seekhs put on him for decency's sake, when they 
 dismissed him, his own dress having been taken 
 away. 
 
 I dined with the Governor-General this evening, 
 and after dinner he informed me, that he leaves 
 with the troops to-morrow morning, but that I am 
 not to go. I shall remain here and attend to the 
 sick and wounded. May God speed them and 
 prosper their arms ! 
 
29 
 
 4. THE CAMP AT MOODKEE. 
 
 [I must here supply an omission in my Journal 
 and insert between brackets a short account of 
 my residence at Moodkee (imprisonment would be 
 a more appropriate term) during the 21st, 22nd 
 and part of the 23rd. I could write nothing in 
 my Journal there, as orders were given for every- 
 thing to be packed up and all the baggage to be 
 collected in one place. Early in the morning of 
 the 21st all the tents were struck, except four or 
 five of the smallest, which afforded accommodation 
 for us, who remained, among whom were Mr. 
 Currie and Colonel Stuart, Secretary to Govern- 
 ment, Military Department. All the camels and 
 hackeries and baggage were drawn up in as close 
 a compass as possible under the walls of the 
 village. A native regiment and three guns were 
 left with us, of which we should of course have 
 
30 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 made the best use, had the Seekhs paid us a visit. 
 The guns would not have run away, though we 
 were not quite so sure of the pultun.^ 1 ) I was 
 much amused at the terror-stricken visages of my 
 own servants the very first morning : it struck me 
 that their fidelity would not appear to great 
 advantage, should a body of Seekh horsemen 
 come down to see what we were doing. Every 
 minute of our time was lengthened by anxiety; 
 but we expected to hear of some decisive result in 
 the course of the first day. I remember that I 
 felt very sanguine and confident myself. My 
 time was chiefly occupied in going among the 
 
 wounded^ d^flg^fe^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ( n ) Native regiment, a corruption of the word, "bat- 
 talion." 
 
 () Captain Dashwood, of the Artillery, who died there 
 from mortification caused by a wound in the leg, I saw 
 
THE CAMP AT MOODKEE. 31 
 
 
 /<*rifj^ 
 
 There were also a few 
 
 burials to employ part of my time. What we 
 did for meals I almost forget ; but I think it was 
 something like a pic-nic the first day ; the second 
 day we were more comfortable. We heard no 
 firing till the evening of the 21st; we heard it 
 very distinctly during the night and the following 
 morning. It was impossible to attempt anything 
 like Divine Service on the 21st (Sunday) :t&gp 
 
 t&fo&&&H*^^ 
 
 mt^^ 
 
 ,3jfegW^^ 
 
 &k| several times. I was not acquainted with him before ; 
 but I was pleased with what I saw of him, and before he 
 died, he grasped my hand with significant earnestness. 
 
32 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 Several deserters from 
 our native army came in during the action. A 
 British Officer was sent in with a* message; and 
 he gave us to understand, that, when he left the 
 field, it was impossible to know which way things 
 would turn. At last on the morning of the 23rd, 
 we were relieved from our suspense by the arrival 
 of a messenger with a note from Colonel Benson 
 written in pencil and announcing, to our inde- 
 scribable joy, that a glorious and decisive victory 
 had been gained over the enemy, and that the 
 camp might proceed to Ferozepoor without delay. 
 We were not long in bidding adieu to Moodkee.] 
 
33 
 
 5. THE BATTLE OF FEROZESHAHR. 
 
 i. Ferozepoor. I arrived here on the 23rd 
 from Moodkee in company with Mr. Currie and a 
 few others, who had stayed with the camp. We 
 came not over the field of Ferozeshahr, but by a 
 more direct road, a distance of about eighteen miles, 
 and rode as fast as we could, eager to hear the 
 particulars of another victory, the glad tidings of 
 which had summoned us away from Moodkee, 
 that never-to-be-forgotten place of suspense and 
 anxiety. On our road we passed several dead 
 bodies and other remains of the first action, and 
 put to flight numbers of vagabond plunderers ( p \ 
 and saw a mine explode not far from us, and heard 
 the report of several others. I am now in my tent 
 again, and our camp "is pitched in its usual style. 
 
 (*>) These are wretches, who after battle prowl about the 
 field to see what they can pick up. 
 
 D 
 
34 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 On first arriving, I was obliged to go with Mr. 
 Currie to General Littler's house, where the 
 .Governor-General was staying, there being no 
 chaplain here, nor any acquaintance at whose 
 house I could put up. I dined that evening with 
 the Governor-General ; it was- a cold dinner, but 
 I dare say Sir Henry never enjoyed one more; 
 and we were all in dishabille, but that agreed better 
 with the disorder of the rooms, and the tout 
 ensemble of confusion. All faces had gathered 
 brightness; though the gladness that prevailed 
 was of a temperate, sober, dignified character a 
 moderation in the joy of triumph resulting, it is to be 
 hoped, from the influence of the Christian religion. 
 How different this from the unbridled exultation 
 and riotous mirth of heathens ! The Governor- 
 General's countenance wore a happy and collected 
 smile ; but he talked with great excitement of the 
 crisis, which was just over, and there was the 
 manifest ebb of the agitation -of one, that had seen 
 the danger and foreseen the consequences of our 
 defeat. 
 
BATTLE OF FEROZESHAHK. 35 
 
 The action was fought on the 21st and 22nd at 
 a place called Ferozeshahr about eight miles off, 
 where the enemy had taken up a very strong and 
 formidable position, and it was a dubium certamen 
 for a long while. More than once great fears 
 were entertained; and I hear that the presence 
 and personal courage of the Governor-General at 
 a critical moment of the battle were of the greatest 
 value. He had offered his services to the Com- 
 mander-in-Chief as second in command, and they 
 had been gladly accepted. Our danger was in 
 great measure owing to the extreme exhaustion of 
 our troops, who had no provisions with them, and 
 were therefore half-perishing with fatigue from the 
 long march together with hunger and thirst, and 
 were either lying on the bare cold ground, or else 
 fighting through the night of the 21st. This 21st, 
 though Sunday, was no sabbath to them : inexorable 
 necessity made it as hard a work-day, as ever 
 wrung .the sweat from the human brow ; still it 
 was the Lord's day, and, if the Lord's work was 
 done in it, as I believe it was, the truest Christian 
 
36 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 breathing has it not within his power to charge 
 our arms with guilt for their operations on that 
 day. The cold in the morning of the 22nd was 
 so bitter, that the men could hardly handle their 
 muskets, and the thirst so intense during the day, 
 that they were driven to drink putrid water, which 
 at another time would have been rejected as poison, 
 and the horses were almost mad. The Governor- 
 General had his share of the common sufferings 
 and privations. The end of all was a decisive 
 victory with the capture of the enemy's guns. 
 
 Had we been beaten, the consequences for a 
 time at least would in all probability have been 
 dreadful : one shudders at the imagination of 
 them. There was nothing on our part to prevent 
 the barbarians, infuriated with triumph, from 
 marching down the country and committing, as 
 they went, every species of violence and outrage. 
 We, who were in durance at Moodkee, should 
 have fallen among their earliest victims. They 
 would not have gone so far as London, the point 
 they had proposed to themselves for the terminus 
 
BATTLE OF FEROZESHAHR. 37 
 
 of their career, but they would have gone quite 
 far enough to give a terrible blow to the prestige * 
 of the British name in Asia, if not in Europe. 
 Who can tell what a shock might have, been 
 communicated to the equilibrium of powers in 
 Europe? As for America, the war-party there 
 would have been louder than ever; and most 
 likely desperate conflicts with the British would 
 have been raging in both hemispheres at once. 
 Thank God, however, that disastrous extremity 
 has been averted; and here we are still in the 
 proud position of conquerors underneath the refuge ^ 
 of His everlasting arms. Truly, (f there is none , 
 like unto the God of Jeshurun." And surely the 
 hand of the Deity stretched forth to defend us was 
 as visible on this occasion, as was the danger, f 
 which called for His protection. Evidently the 
 Governor -General is disposed to acknowledge 
 this. He expressed a wish, that I should allude 
 to-day to the late victories and to the righteousness 
 of our cause, and that the glory should be ascribed 
 to God. I discoursed upon Luke ii. 14. The 
 
38 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 attendance was surprisingly small shamefully 
 ^ small. (?) Perhaps many of those, who were 
 absent, think that such Service is humbug, or 
 waste pf time, or that our cause is not good, or 
 that the Almighty has nothing to do with such 
 affairs, that it is all luck, &c. 
 
 ^ 
 
 3^^ 
 ^ 
 
 I 
 
 read the thanksgiving appointed in the Prayer- 
 Book for such occasions, " O Almighty God, who 
 
 ( e ) The public are well aware that the Governor- General 
 had invited every British subject at Ferozepoor to come to 
 his tent and join him in this service of prayer and thanks- 
 giving. See notification by Governor- General, dated 
 Ferozepoor, 26th December, 1845. 
 
BATTLE OF FEROZESHAHK. 39 
 
 art a strong tower, &c." I felt that it was too 
 short and too general, and regretted that I was 
 not at liberty to use any other besides. 
 
 The night of the 23rd I slept on a sofa in a 
 &ungla(f) belonging to an Officer of the Station, 
 having been taken there by a member of our 
 camp, who knew him. It was deserted and nearly 
 empty, as all the houses were : the inhabitants 
 having left them in a panic and gone for refuge 
 into the fort. The natives also had all run away 
 from the bazaars and hidden themselves some- 
 where ; though it seems a mystery, where they 
 could have gone and remained for so many days 
 together, as it is an open desert all round. Yester- 
 day morning I came into camp. 
 
 This is without exception the most dusty place 
 I ever saw in my life. Roads there are none, 
 there being no foundation for them. To step 
 outside one's tent is to be smothered with dust, 
 
 (**) Bungla, a thatched house, built entirely on the 
 ground-floor, the- usual kind of residence of Europeans in 
 India, *x.t-*JJ- 1^ ^/V/^^/ZT^ A*itf*^ ^ /3 *-r^ir 
 
 ^*/ L*. ^ 
 
40 STJTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 The bottom of the graves in the burial-ground is 
 as fine and impalpable dust as the top, however 
 deep they may be dug; and they fall in almost 
 as fast as they are made : it is quite dangerous to 
 stand near them. In the dusk of the evening it is 
 as difficult to find one's way, as in a London fog. 
 It is nothing but dust wherever one goes ; and the 
 whole country round seems a desert of dust. It 
 is not sandy dust, which would be heavier, but 
 pulverized alluvial soil: so that the poet uncon- 
 sciously gave a literal description of Ferozepoor 
 dust, when he wrote 
 
 ........................ KCLfflQ 
 
 KQVIQ ............ 
 
 No doors or windows will keep it out ; and they 
 say that it penetrates into the works of watches. 
 
41 
 
 6. CAMP AT FEROZEPOOK. 
 
 26th. I have constant calls to the burial- 
 ground, which is a long way off. The Governor- 
 General attended at the funeral of Major Broadfoot, 
 for whom he felt the greatest esteem. Many 
 corpses lie on the field unburied, "meat for the 
 fowls of the heaven and for the beasts of the 
 earth." " Coelo tegitur, qui non habet urnam." 
 Those, who have been to visit the field since the 
 battle, describe it as a horrid spectacle. I have 
 always been struck with the great importance, 
 which soldiers attach to the rite of burial an 
 importance almost superstitious. It is the more 
 remarkable on account of the less importance 
 which they generally attach to other ordinances 
 and to the essential parts of religion ; and also 
 
 IT r i i t'* 10 Jp^'Vy 
 
 because heathen soldiers, irom whom k^m*i^fflttg? 
 & so-called Christian soldiers differ so little, used 
 
42 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 to pride themselves upon looking forward with 
 magnanimity to the abandonment and exposure of 
 their bodies after death. Decent burial ought 
 of course to be given, where it can ; and a service 
 for the grave like that in our Prayer-Book is very 
 full of comfort, and is calculated also to impart 
 sublimity to the thoughts of mourners ; but I must 
 confess I think that burial ought to be to Christians 
 the least important of all religious rites; and I 
 fear that very often there is more superstition 
 associated with the ceremony, than is becoming 
 .in heirs of immortality. I for my part would 
 rather sympathize on an occasion like this with 
 the widow and the orphan; and though I deny 
 not that the want of sepulture may be a thing to 
 be lamented, I would rather grieve in reflecting, 
 how few of those corpses yonder have been 
 temples of the Holy Ghost. How many have 
 been cut off in the midst of their days with the 
 pollution of their sins upon them ! 
 
 28 1 h. (Sunday.) Divine Service was held in 
 the Governor-General's tent. The congregation 
 
CAMP AT FEKOZEPOOR. 43 
 
 small. To-day at dinner the Governor-General 
 requested me to say grace every day : a request, 
 with which I fear it will be difficult always to 
 comply : for the band strikes up the moment we 
 take our places at the table. I often wonder why 
 this custom of "saying grace" is so generally 
 confined to dinner : why should it be observed at 
 one meal and not at another ? This evening we 
 heard that the Seekhs have entirely abandoned 
 this side of the river. They are not, however, 
 finally subdued, and will, no doubt, fight des- 
 perately with us as soon as we cross over to the 
 other side, and will hold out as long as they have 
 any artillery left. They have already held 
 out longer than we anticipated ; and it is not 
 likely that they will give in, till they are 
 completely crushed : they are brave men and 
 moreover have nothing now, but the success of 
 their arms, to trust to : they are fighting for 
 rotee pdnee. ( s ) The struggle once over, if it 
 should terminate in our favour, there can be little 
 ( s ) Bread and water. 
 
44 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 doubt that we shall be a blessing to their country. 
 The prospect of this may reconcile us to the 
 bloodshed. The Government of Lahore, if the 
 / name Government be not misapplied, would be 
 glad to come to terms with us now ; but they are 
 afraid of their own revolutionary army and are 
 anxiously waiting for us to destroy it. They have 
 been exhibiting a singular example of oriental 
 duplicity, and cunningly preparing for either 
 result, the triumph of the Khalsa or that of the 
 British arms, which latter they now perhaps 
 expect as the more probable of the two. This 
 evening I went to the hospitals, the barracks being 
 converted into hospitals for the occasion, where 
 about 900 wounded and sick Europeans are lying. I 
 wish to let them all know that there is a Protestant 
 Minister at hand. I should be very glad indeed, 
 if the Christian duty urged by the Apostle James 
 (ch. v. v. 14) were more attended to, than it is : I 
 mean the duty of calling for the Elder of the 
 Church. This duty often seems to be quite 
 forgotten ; while a Minister is always accused of 
 
CAMP AT FEROZEPOOR. 
 
 45 
 
 negligence, if he do not visit the sick, though he 
 be not called for and frequently, perhaps generally, 
 not wanted. If a Clergyman were really wanted, 
 there can be little doubt that he would be applied 
 to with as much eagerness and importunity, as a 
 Counsellor or Physician is. The visits of Jesus 
 
 T7ore t}i<zn far 3irit\(.?il 
 
 were solicited for bodily cures^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I have only been " called 
 for" once at all since the wounds and sickness 
 began. (') Captain Dashwood, who died in the 
 
 (*) Of course, the Governor- General's camp, to which I 
 
46 STJTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 fort at Moodkee from mortification of the leg, 
 sent and asked me to administer the Lord's supper 
 to him. He died in the evening of the same day; 
 
 was attached, was the proper sphere of my duty ; but, as 
 there was no Chaplain appointed for the Army, it was soon 
 generally known that my services were available for all. I 
 am aware that the passage above quoted, James v. 14, 15, 
 refers, or is understood to refer, to the cure of bodily 
 sickness ; but it also refers to absolution and forgiveness of 
 sin. Besides, if anxiety for spiritual benefits were as great 
 as for temporal, would not this passage be eagerly appealed 
 to by the Laity themselves as justifying their solicitation of 
 the counsel and prayers of the Clergy ? 
 
 In accordance with Scripture, " the Order for the Visita- 
 tion of the Sick" directs thus : " When any person is 
 sick, notice shall be given thereof to the Minister of the 
 Parish." For want of this notice, I have frequently been 
 ignorant of the existence of cases of illness in Stations and 
 Districts, where I have been Chaplain, till I have afterwards 
 discovered it in the abuse and invective heaped upon me for 
 inattention to them. We visit the sick with readiness and 
 pleasure at least those within the sphere of our duty and 
 within the limits of our time and ability; but this readiness 
 can only be supposed on condition of " notice being given," 
 and the pleasure is enhanced an hundred fold, when we know 
 that our services are wanted and our authority recognised. 
 
 With regard to soldiers in hospital it is true, that the 
 
CAMP AT FEKOZEPOOR. 
 
 47 
 
 and it was a delightful satisfaction to me, judging 
 by outward appearance, to think that he departed 
 in peace with God. Four officers belonging to 
 the Governor-General's camp have been wounded 
 severely, and two of them have died of their 
 wounds ; yet neither of these latter has of himself 
 desired to see me for any spiritual purpose. One 
 of them, of whom I had formed a favourable 
 impression from the little I knew of him, died with 
 his Prayer-Book by his side; and we buried it 
 along with 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 29th. People talk of monuments to the dead 
 
 regular visits of a Chaplain, where one is appointed, are an 
 understood arrangement, which implies that vicarious 
 notice has been given. But, notwithstanding this^we should 
 like to hear individual wishes and solicitations more 
 frequently expressed by the soldiers themselves. 
 
48 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 I hear it said that the brave men, who have fallen, 
 ought to be immortalized by some monument to 
 their memory. Well, but Christians know of a 
 better immortality ; besides, a vSpwv i-xifyavCov iracra 
 yrj ra(j)og ; there is no want of a monument in any 
 particular locality to preserve the brave deeds of 
 our countrymen from falling into oblivion, or to 
 testify our Commendation of them : they will live 
 and be honoured in the memories of all men and 
 in the record of history. Pericles himself had 
 almost said that (mjAat might be dispensed 
 with. ( w ) 
 
 Numbers of our Sipdhees are said to have been 
 in Ferozepoor on the night of the 21st instead of 
 in the field. But, still more strange and disgust- 
 ing, more than one British Officer, I hear, turned 
 heart-sick and deserted his post. It would really 
 be difficult to credit this, were it not that the 
 evidence of its truth is too clear ; but this being 
 the case, one must believe it, however loath to do 
 
 ( M ) He did not quite say so (see Thucyd. ii. 42), but then 
 he and his countrymen were heathens. 
 
CAMP AT FEROZEPOOR. 49 
 
 SO. ^fe^^feg8S0iift^b^ 
 
 MB 
 ^^^^^H3fga^^l^S^^^B^B^ 
 
 " Unworthy of the blessings of the brave, 
 Is base in kind and born to be a slave." 
 
 One does not feel so much surprise and indignation 
 at the fidelity of Sipahees giving way sometimes : 
 mercenaries are mercenaries all the world over. 
 But for a man to call himself a Briton and turn 
 coward in the field is jJBftTiifrilffii'iRi mifrifrr and can 
 only be compared to the treachery of a man, who 
 calls himself a Christian and betrays his Lord in 
 the hour of temptation. 
 
 The Governor-General is evidently anxious. He 
 sees before him an enemy still active and formidable, 
 and he is also aware that the affections of the natives, 
 subjects of the British Government, in this part of 
 the country are not so well disposed towards us, as 
 
 E 
 
50 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 could be wished. Were any reverse to befall us, 
 \they would instantly - turn against us. The 
 Governor-General is very kind in directing every 
 attention to be paid to the wounded Sipahees, 
 though, poor creatures, they seem to be very 
 much neglected, and many have died for want 
 of medical attendance or of food (*). 
 
 Jan. 4th, 1846. (Sunday.) Divine Service in 
 the Governor-General's tent. Some of the people 
 of the Station attended. This Station is badly off 
 at present, having neither Church nor Chaplain ; 
 though I believe a Chaplain has been appointed. 
 The want of the means of public worship and 
 other privileges connected with the presence of a 
 Clergyman is much complained of; and truly it is 
 a great evil and a very manifest one : where there 
 is nothing external to remind them of it, how soon 
 do the majority of professing Christians forget 
 
 ( ff ) I ought to have added that his attention to the 
 British soldiers in hospital was as considerate and kind as 
 possible. He used to visit the hospitals himself, and so did 
 Sir Hugh Gough ; and the Governor- General sent them 
 their Christinas fare from his own kitchen. 1 fie^rd Tiirn 
 orAev to li-is TWnck COP]C far 
 
CAMP AT FEROZEPOOR. 51 
 
 religion altogether and particularly the observance 
 of the Lord's day ! 
 
 Yesterday two soldiers came to me, to know 
 whether I could marry them without a License 
 and without the usual delay of publication of 
 Banns, as they could not tell how soon they might 
 be ordered to march ; I told them that compliance 
 with their request would be contrary to the Law 
 of Marriage. It is a distressing case to all parties. 
 Might not the Law of Marriage contain some 
 provision for such cases, as this ? They no doubt 
 are frequently occurring ; and, though the law is 
 definite and clear for his guidance, a Clergyman 
 may very often be placed in a painful and 
 perplexing situation. The women, whom the 
 soldiers wish to marry, are widows their husbands 
 having been slain, or having died of their wounds, 
 last month ; and, if they are not married again 
 within six months or obtain some other means of 
 support, they lose their allowance and become 
 destitute. 
 
 7th. I visit the hospitals daily. It is as much 
 
52 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 as I can do, to go through two or three hospitals 
 a-day. Why is no Chaplain here, and why is not 
 another appointed with the army, whose proper 
 work it would be to attend to the hospitals and 
 whom I might assist ? Indeed six Chaplains would 
 not be too many for this sphere of labour at the 
 present time. (") /s^K&!&!Ptij&*&&^^ 
 
 o not 
 I ^discover much difference between men 
 
 suffering in this way from wounds and men 
 suffering from ordinary sickness: there is the 
 
 (*) I may here remark, that a great deal was afterwards 
 said in the Newspapers about the activity of some Priest or 
 Priests of the Church of Rome in attending the hospital, 
 but that I never once fell in with any such Minister during 
 the whole time, either at the hospitals or at the burial- 
 ground, or anywhere else, and that I never heard him once 
 spoken of. Still it does not follow that no such Priest was 
 present; and my remark is not made from any wish to 
 disparage the zeal and activity of the Church of Rome, in 
 which respects, as well as in others, she generally sets us a 
 bright example. A Priest of that Church was killed, I 
 believe, in the battle of Moodkee ; but we do not consider a 
 field of battle the appropriate place for our ministerial 
 services. ty J d.asr. <j >y A+rfv**** cL^ ^ J die 
 
 fi tlsr 
 
CAMP AT FEROZEPOOR. 53 
 
 VUl ^T> Cm 
 
 same general recklessness and -^^fe^^^^^B*, 
 
 ^^S^^^^^SSS^^S^833S^^^KS^f. Still 
 
 there are 4gflTO> exceptions, and these ^fef&r afford 
 
 u.,5 
 
 ,*$ great consolation. One or two of the men 
 have told me that they had their Bibles in their 
 knapsacks with them on the field of battle, and 
 that they did not find it impossible to think of 
 God and to pray to Him even in that hour of 
 excitement and confusion, y^he gross ignorance 
 of many is perfectly astounding. One day I asked 
 a man, why he was called a Christian, what the 
 word Christian meant, and who the Mediator was ; 
 
 T*V.6LYL 
 
 he said that he did not know. This twugfrh had a 
 Prayer-book at the very time under his pillow^ 
 and no doubt had been accustomed to the same 
 opportunities of instruction, as others, in " all 
 things, which a Christian ought to know and 
 believe to his soul's health." This is only one 
 out of many such instances^^^BSSriB^^BBaHB^ 
 
 which I meet with and which vividly remind me 
 of my hospital-experience at Canpoor, 
 
54 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 v llth. (Sunday.) Divine Service in the 
 Governor-General's tent. A fair congregation. 
 
 16 th. Diarrhoea is prevalent just now in our 
 camp. It is not known exactly, to what cause its 
 prevalence is to be assigned. Some attribute it to 
 the air, others to the water; the dust escapes 
 imputation. But what can there be in the air at 
 this season of the year ? and as for the water, all 
 drink it alike, though all are not affected by this 
 disorder, and it has the reputation among the 
 residents here of being remarkably pure and good 
 and materially conducive to their health. The 
 cause remains an enigma. Horses are suffering 
 from the same complaint. Ferozepoor has the 
 name of being a very healthy place all the year 
 round in spite of its uninviting appearance. I 
 should suppose this very likely : the dryness of the 
 soil and the openness of the country must contri- 
 bute much to its salubrity. But certainly the 
 selection of such a spot by Hygieia says little in 
 favour of her taste for the picturesque. 
 
 2lst. Last night I had an interesting discussion 
 
CAMP AT FEUOZEPOOR. 55 
 
 with one of our party, originating with the ques- 
 tion, what benefits we, as a nation, have conferred 
 upon India. It is astonishing what opposite 
 opinions men form upon this, as upon almost every 
 subject. He maintained that the British have 
 imparted no civilization nor any good whatever to 
 the people of this country. As for the Christian 
 religion, he did not believe that there was a single 
 convert to Christianity in the whole of India. He 
 denied that Providence has appointed us to come 
 into this and other lands, or that we are His 
 instruments for benefiting and converting the 
 heathen, or that " Providence troubles itself at all 
 about such matters." He considered that we have 
 no more right to the title of God's chosen people, 
 than the Mohummedans have ; and he did not see 
 why the Kuran might not be the Word of God. 
 He was not aware of anything remarkable in the 
 present state of the Jews, and did not understand 
 why it should be called a standing miracle. He 
 thought there was no doctrinal difference between 
 the Protestant and the Papist ; and that there was 
 
56 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 no more idolatry in the Church of Rome, than in 
 that of England. He regarded the Church of 
 Rome as a militant Church, ours as a dominant, 
 and looked upon the Priests of the former as more 
 resembling the Apostolic character, than the 
 Clergy of the latter ; and he spoke with the utmost 
 contempt of the haughtiness of our Bishops, rolling 
 about in costly carriages and leaving large legacies 
 to their children, in contrast with the lowliness of 
 Jesus Christ, who went about bare-footed and had 
 not where to lay His head. Such were the 
 opinions of my opponent ; and with the exception 
 
 mry 
 
 of the last, referring to Bishops, for which there W 
 foundation, I will add, such are the 
 
 wretched infidel opinions, which abound and are 
 rampant in the Christian world. These men, I 
 am persuaded, are not so few, as is sometimes 
 imagined ; and they are very active enemies of the 
 cross of Christ ; they disseminate their pernicious 
 principles and do the work of the Devil, their 
 employer, with great success ; " the poison of asps 
 is under their lips ; " and they forcibly remind one 
 
CAMP AT FEROZEPOOR. 57 
 
 of that " old serpent," who beguiled Eve through 
 his subtlety. So much the more need for our 
 watchfulness and readiness at all times and in all 
 places " to convince gainsayers" and " endure 
 contradiction." 
 
 This evening at the hospital of H. M. 80th, 
 a hardened w^M&fa^^ told me, 
 
 that he was a stranger to my principles and did not 
 wish me to converse with him. He said he had 
 been brought up in unbelief and felt no uneasiness 
 of mind at the prospect of dying an unbeliever. 
 He called himself a worm. On my reminding 
 him that he had a soul, which was precious, as 
 well as a vile body, he said that a man need not be 
 under any alarm with respect to futurity, if he did 
 his duty towards his fellow-creatures. He could 
 not condemn himself of having done otherwise. 
 If he was corrupt, God had made him so. It was 
 unreasonable to suppose that God would punish 
 him for being what He made him. He did not 
 believe in an evil spirit. He had read the Bible, 
 but did not believe it to be the Word of God. He 
 
58 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 had understood that the writings of the Apostles 
 were forgeries, composed after their death. He 
 spoke of the differences and animosity among 
 Ministers of the Christian religion as an argument ' 
 against its truth. He could not believe that any 
 men were ever so superior to others, as to be 
 inspired of God. He could not exactly disprove 
 the truth of the Bible, but still he could not see 
 why he should not regard it as false. He did not 
 condemn it: on the contrary, he approved of the 
 morality it inculcates. He did not deny that it 
 might be true, but he could not see why he should 
 trouble himself about it or be at all anxious to 
 inquire upon the subject He felt quite satisfied 
 as he was. When I mentioned the atonement 
 made for human guilt, he said nothing in reply. 
 He gave me credit for good motives and intentions 
 in talking with him, but he would rather keep to 
 his own principles. So I left 
 
 to &** his 
 
 and his prospects of the world to come. Such 
 cases, I know alas ! too well, are not uncommon 
 
CAMP AT FEROZEPOOR. 59 
 
 among soldiers. I have witnessed many such in 
 the course of my hospital-experience in this 
 country ; but never, I think, one that shocked me 
 more than this. I felt as if I were talking with 
 the Devil himself face to face. 
 
 22nd. I had the satisfaction to-day of adminis- 
 tering the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper to four 
 officers together, one of whom is in a dying state 
 from flesh-wounds : poor fellow ! he is almost 
 hacked to pieces, and it is astonishing that he has 
 survived so long. (*) 
 
 25th. (Sunday.) Divine Service was held, as 
 usual, in the Governor-General's tent. There has 
 been a great outcry here against the negligence of 
 the Authorities in not having provided a Church 
 and Chaplain for this station. Why then do not 
 the residents avail themselves of the present oppor- 
 tunity of attending public worship more freely 
 
 (*) His name was Egerton. One of the other commu- 
 nicants was the late Col. Codrington, whose soul, we hope, 
 now rests in peace. I had visited Col. Codrington before 
 in the rude hospital at Moodkee. 
 
60 STJTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 than they do ? They all know, or might know, if 
 they would, that they are at perfect liberty to 
 come here every Sunday. Very few of them, 
 however, attend. I should like to see a better 
 proof of their sincerity. 
 
 27th. To-day I received from a friend two 
 parcels of tracts of the Society for Promoting 
 Christian Knowledge, for the men in the 
 hospitals. ( y ) It was his own spontaneous 
 thought; and nothing could have been more 
 acceptable at the present crisis. We are at a 
 great loss for books. The regimental library of 
 H. M. 61st, like most libraries of this kind, 
 contains but a scanty sprinkling of religious books. 
 Every soldier of course is understood to have his 
 Bible, i. e., in peaceful times ; but Bibles are 
 exceedingly scarce in such times as these. The 
 tracts certainly will not go very far among so many : 
 still they are a help, and I trust they may do soma 
 good, and so multiply themselves, as it were, like 
 
 (^) The friend was the late lamented Mr. Norgate, then 
 Chaplain at Agra. 
 
BATTLE OF ALLIWAL. 61 
 
 the loaves and fishes. Many a man too, I believe, 
 will read a tract, that would not have courage to 
 read his Bible in the sight of his comrades. 
 
 29th. This morning we were all cheered by 
 the glad tidings of another victory gained over the 
 enemy at Alliwal by the division under Sir H 
 Smith, a junction having been formed with the 
 Loodiana force. There was a muttering the other 
 day about some reverse, that our arms had sus- 
 tained in that quarter. (*) I know nothing of the 
 particulars ; but, whatever the reverse may have 
 been, I suppose that it will now be swallowed up 
 by the success which has followed it. The enemy 
 crossed over to this side of the river with about 
 fifty guns and 20,000 men. ( a ) The engagement 
 
 (*) The skirmish on the 21st, at Buddiwal, is now as well 
 known, as the battle at Alliwal on the 28th. The best 
 generals are liable to commit blunders sometimes. Alex- 
 ander himself in crossing the Hydaspes, previously to his 
 engagement with Porus, made a mistake, for the like to 
 which what storms of invective would public opinion 
 have poured upon the head of a Lord Gough in the present 
 day ! 
 
 () The correct numbers are now known. 
 
62 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 was fought yesterday. They were completely 
 beaten and driven back to the other side of the 
 river, and all their guns captured. Hundreds of 
 them were drowned in re-crossing. To the God 
 of battles be ascribed the glory ; though miserable 
 is the havoc, which glorifies Him. 
 
 This victory is considered very opportune: as 
 some event of the kind was wanted to raise the 
 spirits of our army and to keep up the impression 
 created throughout the country by the intelligence 
 of Moodkee and Ferozeshahr, so long a period of 
 inaQtion having followed upon those victories with- 
 out any symptoms of the termination of the war. 
 
 The men in hospital are wonderfully refreshed 
 by the good news. 
 
 February 1st. (Sunday.) Divine Service as 
 usual. A full congregation. I discoursed on the 
 3rd Commandment. It is quite awful to hear how 
 the name of God is taken in vain . t 
 
CAMP AT FEROZEPOOR. 63 
 
 2nd. I hear that my sermon yesterday caused 
 great offence. God be praised for the force of 
 truth. It is remarkable that even in this desert 
 and at this dry time of the year there are patches 
 of vegetation, which somewhat relieve the eye ; 
 but chiefly in the direction of the river. Nearer 
 to the river we are not surprised to find large 
 crops and whole fields of refreshing green. The 
 way in which these patches of vegetation are pro- 
 duced, where there is not a natural hollow in the 
 ground, is said to be the artificial formation of 
 gentle hollows in the flat surface of the soil, so that 
 in the rainy season the water may lodge in them 
 and a fertilizing moisture remain throughout the 
 year. There are also in some places wells worked 
 with the Persian wheel for the purpose of irri- 
 gation. Some of the houses in the station have 
 gardens attached to them, in which European 
 vegetables vie with marigolds ; the cauliflower is 
 remarkably fine. 
 
 Thermometer at noon inside tent 62 Fahrh. 
 
 5th. Thermometer at noon inside tent 7 2 Fahrh. 
 
64 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 8th. (Sunday.) Divine Service as usual. Full 
 congregation. 
 
 9th. The Governor-General went out to-day to 
 the Commander-in-Chief's Camp, about twenty 
 
 miles off. The infidel above mentioned of 
 \A3N%*rf*to& expired on the 3rd. I hear that just 
 before his death he. said to one of his comrades, 
 " I have seen my folly." I cannot find out 
 however what he meant; and the expression by 
 itself is very ambiguous. Though he had many 
 relations in England, he left his property to the 
 orphan child of one of his comrades. 
 
 Another glorious victory was gained over the 
 Seekhs this morning at Sobraon on the river-side 
 about twenty miles from here. The battle appears 
 to have lasted about four hours. We heard the 
 firing very distinctly. So much for the formid- 
 able entrenchments of Sobraon, which have been 
 looking defiance at us for a long and wearisome 
 time. Many thought the position of the enemy 
 with their tremendous rtiyj) jrjiva next to impreg- 
 nable. There is an end of them now, however, as 
 
BATTLE OF SOBRAON. 65 
 
 well as of most of those, who built them. All their 
 guns are captured, themselves discomfited with a 
 terrible slaughter, and thousands drowned in re- 
 crossing the river reminding us of the Egyptian 
 host and the Red Sea. Justice has been dealt 
 them by Him, who has fought for us, and we 
 thank Him for it and so will the whole country, 
 which has been released from the fury of its 
 oppressors. ( 6 ) " Thy right hand, O Lord, is 
 
 ( 6 ) I see nothing unchristian, as some do, in rejoicing at 
 the destruction of wickedness and in thanking God for it. 
 We are taught by Scripture to do so by the same Scrip- 
 ture, which teaches us to be merciful and tender-hearted. 
 It is a mistake moreover, in my opinion, to suppose that in 
 such a feeling there is anything more suited to the temper 
 of the Jewish dispensation, than to that of the Christian. 
 God's word is one and the same throughout. Personal 
 hatred is forbidden no less in the Old Testament, than in 
 the New ; but that is a very different thing from rejoicing 
 at the overthrow of the enemies of our country and the 
 
 ~ f 
 
 deliverance of the oppressed from 
 
 more Jewish, than Christian, 
 
 in this I can see nothing 
 
66 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 become glorious in power ; thy right hand, O Lord, 
 hath dashed in pieces the enemy. In the greatness 
 of thine excellency thou hast overthrown them, 
 that rose up against thee." " This is the day of 
 the Lord God of hosts, a day of vengeance, that he 
 may avenge him of his adversaries. The sword 
 hath devoured and been satiate and been made 
 drunk with their blood." " Woe to the bloody 
 city ! it is all full of lies and robbery. Behold, I 
 am against thee, saith the Lord of hosts. There is 
 no healing of thy bruise ; thy wound is grievous ; 
 all that hear the bruit of thee shall clap their hands 
 Bver thee : for upon whom hath not thy wicked- 
 ness passed continually?" It is expected that the 
 Seekhs have now had enough of the Faringees and 
 will give in and surrender all hopes of paying a 
 visit to London. Our swords, however, must still 
 remain drawn : as we do not know whether or not 
 they may be inclined to try us again, They are 
 infatuated ; that is quite clear already. And they 
 are inflamed with fanatical frenzy, which drives 
 them headlong. It seems to be a remarkable case 
 
BATTLE OF SOBRAON. 67 
 
 of v/3ptc and 'Epivvvg, as the ancient Greeks would 
 have said. One cannot help remembering the 
 line 
 
 \\th. Our army is to cross the river im- 
 mediately and march straight up to Lahore; 
 though things have been managed so skilfully, 
 that up to this time it has not been known, except 
 by a few necessarily in the secret, whereabouts 
 our bridge of boats was to be constructed, 
 Secresy has been the order of the day. No one 
 in camp knew on the evening of the 9th, except 
 the Governor-General and those immediately about 
 him, that he was about to start on the following 
 morning to the Commander-in-Chief's camp and 
 that the attack was then to be made on the enemy. 
 They were effectually taken by surprise. The 
 battle is described to have been a beautiful sight, 
 every movement of our troops to have been 
 distinctly visible from the ground occupied by the f^ 
 Governor-General and Staff, and the whole to 
 have resembled the order and steadiness of evolu- 
 
68 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 tions in a review. This was what I wanted to see 
 at Moodkee ; but there was nothing of the kind to 
 be seen on that occasion, all was disorder and 
 confusion. The Seekhs, they say, fought furiously; 
 and there were numbers of naked Akalees among 
 them, whose presence maddened them the more 
 and who are represented to have looked like 
 fiends. Several officers, who never saw a battle 
 in their lives before this of Sobraon, decfere that 
 it exceeded all their ideas and expectations, and 
 that the shot of all sorts, which kept pouring 
 around them, was literally without exaggeration 
 as thick as hail. Every man must feel more or 
 less astonished the first time he is under fire, and 
 scarcely know at some moments whether his head 
 is on or off his shoulders ; but the oldest soldier 
 must acknowledge that a storm of cannon, grape 
 and musket-shot, like this, is no joke. Sir R. 
 Dick has fallen at Sobraon. I remember that 
 brave general telling me, that he never went into 
 battle without first going down upon his knees, 
 though it might be on the bare ground, and 
 
BATTLE OF SOBKAON. 69 
 
 offering up a prayer in Christ's name for the 
 forgiveness of his sins. I suppose therefore he 
 did so on this occasion. There is nothing incon- 
 sistent between praying and fighting, as some are 
 stupid enough to think. There were soldiers, I 
 know (few indeed, but still soldiers), whose 
 prayers went up to heaven as well as mine from 
 the field of Moodkee. ( c ) 
 
 12th. The accounts of the numbers, who 
 perished in the river, are perfectly amazing. 
 
 ( c ) A man needs not "the acquired habits of the ecclesiastic" 
 to be able to pray on a field of battle. The ministrations of 
 a Clergyman however in the hour of mortal combat are 
 quite another matter, and I would refer the reader to some 
 very sensible remarks upon this subject in a little book 
 called " Religio militis," the author of which was evidently 
 a military man, and which ought to be in the hands of every 
 British soldier. In order that my meaning may not be 
 misunderstood, I will just observe that he says, what to any 
 one, that has been eye-witness of a battle, must be perfectly 
 obvious, that at such an hour such ministrations would be 
 importune and worse than useless. I need not add that the 
 author speaks of a Protestant Minister. 
 
 
 

 70 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 Some say 5,000, others declare they could not 
 have been less than 8,000 ! I have heard the 
 Commander-in-Chief himself say that he was sure 
 the bodies were so thick, that he could have 
 walked over to the other side of the river by 
 stepping from one to the other. Their bridge, 
 which they had made, had been blown up, and 
 in their panic they missed the ford. In all that 
 occurred we see the hand of an over -ruling 
 Providence and the same protecting arm, which 
 fought for Israel of old. 
 
71 
 7. ENTERING THE PUNJAB. 
 
 I4lh. The Governor-General crossed the Sutlej 
 this morning. The greater part of our army had 
 gone before. He was accompanied by all his 
 suite, except Mr. Edwards, Capt. Johnstone and 
 myself, who expect to follow in a few days. The 
 bridge is just afyove Khoonda Ghat, about four 
 miles off. It is a double bridge of boats, which 
 were made and sent up the river for this purpose 
 a year ago, each armed with a gun the famous 
 pontoon bridge of Lord Ellenborough, who, it is 
 commonly said, would have used it long before 
 this. The policy of the present ruler has the 
 advantage of being just, as well as successful. 
 Not that a different policy would have been 
 condemned as unjust by all writers on the 
 principles of warfare : for instance, the " Counsel 
 Learned Extraordinary" to King James I. lays 
 down the maxim, " that a just fear, without an 
 actual invasion or offence, is a sufficient ground 
 
72 SFTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 of a war and in the nature of a true defensive." 
 (Considerations touching a war with Spain). But 
 Sir H. Hardinge certainly cannot be charged with 
 provocation of the war : and his forbearance and 
 political honesty, so far as they have gone, have 
 been rewarded with at least as triumphant a 
 result, as would have been the precipitation, 
 which another man at the head of our government 
 might have thought expedient. Together with 
 the forbearance of a just and magnanimous ruler, 
 he has displayed also the utmost sagacity and 
 wisdom : events, as well as the previous increase 
 of the army, prove that he was not unprepared 
 for the contest. He is blamed by some for ever 
 having allowed the pontoon bridge to be brought 
 up to Ferozepoor, this being considered enough 
 to provoke a war. Surely this was nothing more 
 than a wise and necessary precaution : the 
 provocation commenced with our enemies long 
 before. The .probability is, that not one man in 
 a hundred would have acted more sagaciously, 
 than he has done, and that not one man in a 
 
ENTEEINa THE PUNJAB. 73 
 
 hundred in his position, however he might have 
 acted, would have escaped obloquy. 
 
 This river Sutlej, or Suloodr, or Suttudra, is 
 the ancient Hysudrus of Pliny and Zaradrus of 
 Ptolemy. ( d ) The Beeas, which forms a junction 
 with it higher up, is the ancient Hyphasis of 
 Arrian and Upasis of Pliny. It is amusing to 
 hear the false quantities. The Hyphasis and the 
 Acesines are the only two of the five rivers, that 
 can easily be mispronounced; and these are cruelly 
 distorted by some of my military brethren, or 
 murdered^ as my Schoolmaster used to say. 
 One would really think they were the Germans 
 whom he used to speak of: " 7105 German* 
 quantitatem syllabarum non curamus." The Sutlej 
 is a most erratic river : I believe it changes its 
 course more or less every year. ( e ) 
 
 ( d ) Suloodr Zaradrus. To Oriental scholars it is well 
 known that the interchange of I and r and of the other 
 liquids is very common in the East ; nor is the variation 
 confined to Oriental languages. 
 
 . (*) In the beginning of last year the river had swept 
 away a great part of the field of Sobraon. 
 
74 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 With regard to the war the common impression 
 seems to be, that it is now nearly at an end, and 
 that the Seekhs have been thoroughly beaten. It 
 has been astonishing to observe the extreme 
 apathy of the servile classes of natives during all 
 this time of suspense and anxiety. Even while 
 the battles were going on and the report of the 
 
 cre<3tcr65 
 
 firing was distinctly heard in camp, these jms&B&&> 
 appeared as unconcerned as mere vegetables. 
 Pysa and khdna( f ) seemed, as usual, to absorb 
 the whole of their attention. I do not believe 
 that the lower orders of natives feel the slightest 
 interest in anything of importance that occurs 
 around them, nor that they care one straw what 
 becomes of their country, so long as they can get 
 enough to eat and ground to sleep on. The only 
 excitement they are capable of in such times, as 
 these, is the instinct to run away, should danger 
 come near enough. What a melancholy state of 
 
 (/) Pysa is a small copper coin and the general term used 
 by the lower order of natives for their money : khdna is 
 food. 
 
ENTERING THE PUNJAB. 75 
 
 degradation ! It is impossible also not to discern 
 the difference between the Sipahee and the British 
 Soldier in respect of patriotic spirit and even 
 esprit de corps : nor is this to be wondered at. 
 The thing to be wondered at is, that any observers 
 of the native character and sentiments should 
 endeavour to make out that there is little or no 
 difference. "Jack Sepoy" highly approves of 
 security of person and property (as who does not ?) 
 and admires the system of regular pay, extra pay, 
 batta and so forth ; and so long as he derives such 
 advantages from the British Government, he will 
 steadfastly and bravely fight for the Queen of 
 England. But yet he is influenced <o/3w /uaXXov 
 TL 7] tvvoia rrj TT^OC ^Aia 5 as Alexander said of his 
 mercenaries. 
 
 15th. (Sunday.) I held Divine service in Mr. 
 Edwards' tent, himself and seven or eight clerks 
 belonging to the Foreign Office being present. 
 
 llth. A message having arrived yesterday 
 from the Governor-General, that all was quiet 
 and that we were to proceed to join him, we 
 
76 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 started this morning and marched to Kussoor, 
 fifteen miles from Ferozepoor, and eleven from 
 the bridge almost as glad to turn our backs 
 upon Ferozepoor, as we were upon Moodkee. 
 Kussoor, in former days a Mohummedan town, 
 is now a place of ruins and very picturesque. I 
 arrived just in time to catch a sight of Rajah 
 Goolab Singh, who had come from Lahore, for 
 y the purpose of negotiating a treaty on behalf of 
 his Government, and was just on the point of 
 mounting his elephant to return to his own camp. 
 Wo are yet in uncertainty as to what has become 
 of the remnant of the Seekh army. Whether they 
 have given in, or mean to try another encounter, 
 is unknown; only the former is presumed. 
 
 18th. Luttidna, eleven miles. The Governor- 
 General held a durbar for the reception of Rajah 
 Goolab Singh and the little Maharajah Dhuleep 
 Singh. They came upon elephants, but in plain 
 attire and altogether with the mien of humiliation 
 suited to their present condition. The terms we 
 have exacted from the Government of Lahore are 
 
ENTERING THE PUNJAB. 77 
 
 the payment of a million and half of money, as 
 compensation for the expenses of the war; that 
 the Seekh army receive no more pay, until they 
 disband ; that the Maharajah be placed upon the 
 throne ; and that the rich tract of country called 
 the Jullunder Dooab, lying between the Sutlej 
 and the Beeas, the most fertile in the whole 
 Punjab, be ceded to the British Government. 
 
 19th. Kutch. The Rajah held a durbar, at 
 which ( some of the Governor - General's Staff 
 attended. They described the tents as being 
 magnificent, lined with Cashmere shawls, &c. 
 It is said that a bloody battle was fought in this 
 neighbourhood by Alexander the Great. Very 
 likely, though it is impossible to identify the 
 names of places at this distance of time ; and no 
 doubt, were our little world to last so long, the spots 
 of Moodkee, Ferozeshahr, Alliwal, and Sobraon, 
 would retain their celebrity for an equal period 
 of years, i. e. upwards of 2,000, a celebrity, which 
 in all probability would outlive their names. 
 Arrian says that Alexander took a city called 
 
78 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 Sangala, which made a brave resistance, some- 
 where in this region : for it was between the 
 Hydraotes or Ravee and the Hyphasis or Beeas. 
 But this is all we know ; the spot it is im- 
 possible to determine : perhaps it was much 
 higher up. (f) What an interesting country to 
 be traversing ! How little did any of us in our 
 school-boy days dream that we should ever be 
 treading ground so famous in the history of the 
 Macedonian conqueror! Another reflection too 
 still more interesting arises a reflection upon the 
 difference between his causa belli and ours, between 
 his motive and that of our Governor- General or 
 the Commander-in-Chief of our forces in bringing 
 an army to this part of the world. His was mere 
 lust of aggressive conquest, ours in self-defence 
 against an aggressive enemy: whence we may 
 
 (f) An interesting and creditable essay has been since 
 written in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, 
 !N~o. iii., 1852, on the sites of Nikaia and Boukephalon, by 
 Major James Abbott, in which he endeavours to trace 
 Alexandrian marches and engagements in the Punjab by 
 the aid of modern names, but of course conjecturally. 
 
ENTERING^ THE PUNJAB. 79 
 
 augur that a greater blessing will attend our arms, 
 than attended his, and greater benefit to the 
 country, which we have subdued. 
 
 As we were at breakfast this morning, we heard 
 the firing of cannon in the direction of Lahore, 
 which from its irregularity sounded like battle-firing 
 more than that of a salute, and which therefore was 
 thought to indicate that the Seekh army reinforced 
 was not far off, and that we were on the point of 
 a fifth engagement. The Governor-General said, 
 however, " that we had better finish our breakfast 
 before we went at them." We have heard no 
 more firing since, and it has proved to be a false 
 alarm: it was the firing of a salute at Lahore. 
 Our breakfast tent is very diminutive, just large 
 enough for eight or ten to squeeze into. This is 
 the only tent the Governor-General has to occupy 
 now-a-days in the morning for about three hours, 
 until his double-poled tent comes up; and yesterday 
 morning, after his arrival at the ground, he was 
 obliged to sit for a considerable length of time in 
 
80 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 his palkee gdree ( h ) writing on a table fixed in the 
 middle of it. This breakfast-tent too is the only 
 place, where any breakfast is to be had in our 
 camp ; so that we all crowd round it by instinct, 
 and those, who are too late for seats inside, are 
 very glad to get what they can without seats 
 outside. 
 
 (*) Palanquin-carriage. 
 
81 
 
 8. CAMP AT LAHORE. 
 
 2Qth. We arrived this morning at Meeanmeer 
 between two and three miles from the capital of 
 the Punjab, the site of the Seekh lines ; and thus 
 our army is occupying the ground, whence the 
 Seekh army so lately issued forth on their mad 
 expedition with the confident belief, that they 
 should be our destruction. Mr. Currie and the 
 Governor-General's Staff went to-day to the palace 
 and saw the Maharajah placed upon the throne. 
 The city has an imposing appearance from our 
 camp. 
 
 21 st. Most of the trades-people of Lahore, 
 hearing of the approach of our army, were seized 
 with a panic and have run away. Strict orders 
 therefore have been given that no European, 
 except of course official persons sent on public 
 business, is. to go into or near the city at present, 
 
 G- 
 
82 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 in order that the inhabitants may have time to 
 gain confidence and understand, that we have no 
 intention of plundering them or doing them any 
 injury. 
 
 22nd. (Sunday.) Divine service in the 
 Governor-General's tent. When was this service 
 ever held before in this part of the world? 
 Congregation small, though, the army being with 
 us, it might have been expected, that our con- 
 gregation would be larger than usual. Prince 
 Waldemar attended. He has regularly attended, 
 when he has been in our camp. I like what I 
 have seen of him very much. 
 
 23rd. I went with the Governor-General and 
 Staff to see the Hazooree Bdgli. It is a small 
 garden in a square between the palace and the 
 Bddshdliee Musjid and is entered by a gate called 
 Baddmee bdgh-ka durwdza. In the centre is a 
 marble building containing a suite of rooms. The 
 ground is pretty outside the Badamee bagh-ka 
 durwaza. (*) This is not properly one of the gates 
 (*) On this ground our camp was pitched in 1847. 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 83 
 
 of the city. Lahore has twelve gates named as 
 follows : Dehlee (*) durwaza, Yeckee, Shahreewala, 
 Cashmeree, (*) Mustee, Tungsalee (near which is 
 the Mint, where the Nanak Shah rupees are 
 coined), Bhatee, Moree, Loharee, Shahalmee, 
 Mochee, Akhbaree. The fortifications of the city 
 look strong at first sight; the ditch is wide and 
 deep and the walls high ; but on closer inspection 
 they appear not so formidable : they are dilapidated 
 in one or two places, and it is obvious that a 
 breach might easily be effected in them. The 
 Badshahee Musjid is a fine building and in better 
 preservation, than might have been expected. 
 The religious fury of the Seekhs has covered the 
 country all round outside the walls with the 
 unsightly ruins of mosques, tombs, and Mohum- 
 medan buildings of one kind or another. The 
 religion of the Seekhs is said to be a sort of 
 mixture of Hindooism and Mohummedanism, both 
 
 (*) So one of the gates of Lucknow is called Roomka 
 durwaza, from its looking towards Greece and Turkey 
 (Roumelia) ; and at Tyre there was 6 \ipnv b npbg AfyvTnw. 
 
84 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 of which however they regard as false: they 
 believe in only one God, like the Mohammedans, 
 and again they retain many religious customs of 
 the Hindoos, while they reject the Prophet and 
 use no idols. They are divided into two sects, 
 the followers of Gooroo Ndnak and those of Gooroo 
 Govind. Their sacred book is called Grunth. (*) 
 Gooroo Nanak or Baba Nanak or Nanak Shah 
 was the founder of the Seekh religion. He was 
 born A. D. 1469. He was a Hindoo. His father 
 was of the military caste, and he refused to follow 
 his father's employment, and devoted himself to 
 religion, and travelled into every part of the East, 
 and conversed with persons of all ranks, even with 
 the emperor Baber. The great doctrine he taught 
 was the unity of God ; and he strove to convince 
 both Hindoos and Mohummedans of their respective 
 errors. In conjunction with about twelve others 
 he composed the Purdna Grunth. Gooroo Govind 
 was a descendant of his and was born A. D. 1675. 
 He abolished Hindoo caste among the Seekhs and 
 ( z ) Grunth is a Sanskrit word signifying " a book." 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 85 
 
 promoted sweepers to honour. He changed the 
 name Seekh to Singh (or lion) and made all his 
 followers soldiers. He composed by himself the 
 Ndya Grunth. It is written in GoormoocJcee, the 
 written dialect of the sect. The Seekhs admit 
 any one into their religion and into their temples, 
 but for the latter the shoes must be taken off. 
 They are desperate fanatics, like the Mohum- 
 medans, and fight against us as infidels and God's 
 enemies; but they are about the most wicked 
 race on the earth and are described as being 
 worse, if possible, than the inhabitants of Sodom 
 and Gomorrah. For murder, rapine, cruelty, 
 licentiousness, *fe4ftNM$2^tiMlKitMi4 debauchery of 
 every kind and description, they are not to be 
 surpassed, I imagine, if equalled, by any tribe 
 now living on the face of the globe. 
 
 24A. The Seekhs have a very different cast 
 of countenance from that of any other natives: 
 they look like a distinct race. Many see a 
 resemblance in their visages to the Jewish 
 physiognomy. Their long black beards give 
 
86 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 them an imposing appearance, and some of the 
 soldiers are remarkably fine looking men. The 
 rest of the population of the Punjab, who form 
 the great majority, are called by the common 
 name of Punjabees, some being Hindoos and 
 others Mohummedans. The latter have been 
 most oppressed by the Seekhs. To what race 
 the people of the Punjab belong, or where they 
 came from, is unknown. But it is singular that 
 they call themselves Jots or Jeets or Juts, as do 
 also the natives of Scinde. Some think there 
 must be an identity between this word and Getce, 
 as likewise between Getae and Gothi (or Goths). 
 Some however think that the Jats were all 
 originally Hindoos. It is also deserving of 
 remark, in connection with the idea of the 
 Jewish extraction of the Seekhs, that the same 
 idea has been entertained with regard to the 
 Scindians in consequence of their strikingly 
 Jewish features. And the " Adventurer in the 
 Punjab " tells us, that " the ruler of Bahawalpore 
 and his clan distinguish themselves by the term 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 87 
 
 ddudputras, sons of David, from Daud, David, 
 and putra, a son, tracing their pedigree to an 
 ancestor in Scinde, whence they emigrated about 
 100 years ago." We know very little as yet of 
 this part of the world and its people, and a wide 
 field is open for ethnological investigation ; but 
 the connection of these tribes with Israel in 
 some way or other is quite obvious. Lady Sale 
 again in p. 283 of her journal says, " We passed 
 over the plain of Methusaleh and saw at a short 
 distance the Kubber-i-Lamech, a celebrated place 
 of pilgrimage about 2 miles from Tighree and 25 
 from Jellalabad." Axzvto^^ 
 
 But it is to be hoped that we shall 
 prosecute our researches into the history of these 
 parts and their population, now that Providence 
 seems about to afford us every possible facility for 
 the purpose. (f) 
 
 ( m ) See Prichard's Researches, vol. iv. p. 239. Wise- 
 man's Lectures on the Connection between Science and 
 
88 SETTLE J CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 25th. (Ash Wednesday.) No Church-bell to- 
 day. Nor do I think that the Governor-General 
 is to be blamed for not ordering Service. " I will 
 have mercy and not sacrifice," surely applies on 
 such occasions as these, if ever it did at all. A 
 friend told me to-day that in the Commander-in- 
 Chief's camp Service is held twice every Sunday. 
 The Commander-in-Chief has no Chaplain, but 
 Colonel Eckford officiates. I hear that the Loo- 
 diana Missionaries (they are Americans) have 
 been privately recommended by a friend of theirs, 
 a member of our own Church, to lose no time in 
 taking measures for the establishment of a Mission 
 on this side of the Sutlej in our -newly acquired 
 Jullunder territory. 
 
 Revealed Religion, Lect. viii. Paganism and Christianity 
 compared by Dr. Ireland, ch. iii. Major Abbott, in the 
 Essay above referred to, speaks of the resemblance of the 
 Kuttris, a race of people widely diffused through the 
 Punjab, to the Jews of Asia in feature, dress, and customs; 
 and also alleges, as evidence of the Israelitish descent of the 
 Affghans, the identity of some Mosaic and Affghan names 
 and the mention of them by Greek writers 1000 years before 
 the Hejira, 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 89 
 
 27th. I accompanied the Commander-in-Chief 's 
 party to see the Shalamah gardens about 2 miles 
 to the east of the city. They are like all other 
 oriental gardens, that I have seen; exceedingly 
 stiff, mathematically formal, with paved walks. 
 The trees are chiefly mango-trees, the flowers, 
 stocks and larkspur and red poppies. The 
 reservoir and the summer-houses, &c. are of 
 white marble, Mohummedan in style and struc- 
 ture. We were regaled with oranges as hard as 
 bullets and tasteless as turnips. Upon the whole 
 our visit to these famous gardens was repaid by 
 disappointment. 
 
 It is by no means safe to go about alone far 
 beyond the limits of the camp. The Seekhs in 
 the city and villages round are still as insolent 
 as possible ; and, inasmuch as they are practised 
 ruffians and cut-throats, they are not pleasant 
 people for a lonely Faringee to meet with. The 
 other day a poor European soldier, straggling 
 too far from camp, was fallen upon by a set of 
 savages and literally hacked and chopped to death. 
 
90 STJTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 Another day two Sipahees went into the city 
 (the prohibition against going there being no 
 longer in force) and came back severely cut 
 with sabres. The Seekhs are very far from 
 being subdued in spirit; and it is very possible 
 they may rise again next winter or the winter 
 after and give us some more work. 
 
 28th. Two Pundits ( n ) out of the city called 
 on me yesterday and asked for a religious book 
 to read. I gave them a copy of St. John's Gospel 
 in Hindee and a tract on " the evil of sin." They 
 said they would come again to-day; but they 
 have not come. We had some refreshing showers 
 of rain to-day ; but nothing less than 48 hours of 
 incessant rain would be enough to lay the dust in 
 this part of the world. 
 
 March 1st. (Sunday.) Divine Service in 
 the Governor-General's tent ; large congregation. 
 The Commander-in-Chief and Staff attended, the 
 C6mmander-in-Chief sitting at the table on the 
 right of the Governor-General. After Service an 
 ( w ) Learned Brahmans. 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 91 
 
 old Canpoor friend called at my tent, and we 
 had a long conversation on religious matters: a 
 great refreshment and a very rare one. One of 
 the Officers of our camp went out this morning 
 to spend the day with some pleasure-party at 
 the Shalamah Gardens : this is the way to 
 recommend our religion to the heathen. 
 
 2nd. The Pundit came according to his promise 
 and brought along with him three of his adult 
 disciples. He said he did not want to know 
 anything about the Christian religion, and that 
 the books which I had given him were not 
 what he required. I told him something about 
 heathenism and about the true God and bade 
 
 him read the Gospel I had given him; but I 
 
 wick/Z. 
 could elicit nothing from him, except a %&&&&& 
 
 laugh. - 
 
 3rd. Men are going about with old coins to 
 sell. They are of gold, silver and brass, with 
 Greek devices and inscriptions. Major Macdonald 
 tells me that there are Jews in Cabul, who are 
 very clever in counterfeiting the ancient Greek 
 
92 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 and Bactrian coins, which are found in these parts 
 of the country, and that therefore there is some 
 risk in buying what are carried about for sale. 
 
 I went this morning in company with three 
 Officers to see the city. We were recommended 
 to go on elephants, that we might suffer the less 
 inconvenience from the extreme filthiness of the 
 streets; and we were not sorry afterwards that 
 we followed the advice. The streets are just 
 wide enough to admit an elephant there is no 
 room for a horse to pass him. A nasty gutter 
 runs through the middle of each street. The 
 people seem to live in filth and to rejoice, like 
 pigs, in mire and stench. The houses are built 
 of pukka () brick, and are several stories high 
 with stairs inside. The doors, window-frames, 
 and shutters, are made of hard-looking wood 
 and covered with ornamental carving. All the 
 inhabitants of this Sodom, men and women 
 alike, have a sinister and diabolical expression of 
 countenance. Many of the men look the more 
 () Hard, well-baked. 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 93 
 
 unearthly from having lost one eye or their 
 noses or ears, a mutilation inflicted on them for 
 some offence. They have a most independent 
 and impudent appearance ; their shops are busy 
 still with the making and sharpening of swords, 
 &c., as if they calculated on being a match for 
 us yet. As we passed along, almost every 
 window was filled with prostitutes, disgusting, 
 sickly, wanton-looking objects, decked out in the 
 livery of their profession. From all I hear and 
 read of the depravity of this place, I should 
 suppose* ^a virtuous woman in Lahore would be 
 
 a rara avis. 
 IS 
 
 'in any town of Hindoostan. (P) But it 
 
 ( p ) The prostitution of females however is worse irf the 
 Punjab than elsewhere. For the Author of the " Adventurer 
 in the Punjab " says that it is more licentious and more 
 extensive there, than anywhere else. It is not only legalized, 
 but parents are systematically murdered for the sake of 
 obtaining the girls to make^ a trade of. I take this oppor- 
 tunity of expressing my ^^f^SA^e^^S^ the opinion 
 of those, who consider that female prostitution is more 
 excusable in countries, where it is legalized and where it 
 
94 StJTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 is the crime of Sodom, which, though common 
 throughout the East, is awfully prevalent here, 
 that gives to Lahore the preeminence in wicked- 
 ness. To this also must be added wholesale 
 murder and drunkenness. 
 
 I understand that there are no Jews in Lahore. 
 There were a few some years ago, but they have 
 all left. 
 
 March 4:th. To-day I was again refreshed by 
 some religious conversation with an Officer, whose 
 acquaintance I made at Simla, > 
 
 
 Sir C. Napier arrived yesterday. When he 
 
 is not viewed as a sin. It is so much the worse for being 
 legalized in any country. It is sanctioned in France, which 
 is a Christian country. The people mentioned in Gen. vi. 2, 
 had no better means of knowing that fornication was a 
 sin, than heathens have in the present day ; and yet it is 
 represented to have been the chief cause of the deluge. 
 
CAMP AT LAHOKE. 95 
 
 was directed to join the army, it was not expected 
 that the war would be over so soon. 
 
 5th. The Governor -General gave a grand 
 dinner. I should think all the Officers of the 
 Army were present. The Commander-in-Chief 
 sat on his right hand, Sir C. Napier on his left. 
 The dinner was immediately followed by toasts 
 and speeches, in which the veteran triumviri just 
 mentioned took the most conspicuous part. Each 
 eulogized the other and the army at large. I 
 wonder what the native attendants think of our 
 deafening " Hip, hip, hip, hurrahs ! " 
 
 Sir C. Napier is one of the most remarkable- 
 looking men I ever beheld : Short in stature, of a 
 thin cadaverous visage, with a fine aquiline nose, 
 strongly marked eye-brows, eyes of a hawk 
 behind a huge pair of spectacles, dark brown 
 hair and a long gray beard. He is fluent in 
 speech and his voice sepulchral. I can readily 
 understand how at first sight some of his fellow- 
 men have considered him to belong to other than 
 earthly regions. He is called by the natives of 
 
96 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845.-6. 
 
 Scinde " Shytdn-ka bhdee"( 9 ) The designation, 
 however, may be also perhaps ascnbable to the 
 wonderfully short work which he made with his 
 enemies in that region. 
 
 8th. (Sunday.) Divine Service, as usual; 
 large congregation. Sir C. Napier attended, 
 sitting on the left of the Governor-General, and 
 the Commander-in-Chief on the right. 
 
 9th. The Governor-General held a large durbar 
 for the reception of the Maharajah and the ratifi- 
 cation of the treaty. The Governor-General was 
 seated on his throne with the Maharajah on 
 another throne on his right and Prince Waldemar 
 on his left. The Sahib % ( r ) were ranged on 
 one side of the tent, the Sirdar log( r ) on the 
 other. The Governor-General's band played at 
 intervals outside. The Governor-General explained 
 in the audience of all present the conduct, the 
 wishes, and intentions, of the British Government 
 with regard to the Government of Lahore. Mr. 
 
 (*) Satan's brother. 
 
 O The British Officers The Seekh Chiefs. 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 97 
 
 Currie interpreted the Governor-General's words 
 to the Seekh Chiefs sentence by sentence. The 
 treaty was signed ; and the lousiness concluded 
 with the distribution of nuzzurs .(*) to the value, 
 I heard, of 30,000 rupees. 
 
 There was a large dinner-party at the Com- 
 mander-in-Chief's tent with toasts and speeches, 
 the anti-strophe to the strophe of the 5th. 
 
 This treaty is looked upon by many as a thing 
 patched up for present expediency, to be broken 
 by the Seekhs the first opportunity. It strikes 
 me however that this is the first step to our 
 sovereign possession of the Punjab. Rajah Goolab 
 Singh is to have Cashmere and to be independent 
 of the Lahore Government, and to keep an army 
 of his own. Cashmere no doubt will be ours too 
 at some future day. O that the Gospel could be 
 preached for a witness to the miserable people "of 
 that beautiful vale ! Goolab's countenance is the 
 picture of astuteness. I dare say, when he is 
 perfectly at ease in his new dominion, it will 
 (*) Presents. 
 
 H 
 
98 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 be also the picture of lust and cruelty, for which 
 he is equally notorious. I believe that one of his 
 favourite punishments is that of flaying alive. (*) 
 
 Wth. A durbar was held at the palace by the 
 Maharajah for the reception of the Governor- 
 General. The elegant room or hall of audience, 
 in which it was held, is certainly well worth 
 seeing. The front of it, which is open, forms 
 one side or nearly so of a quadrangle, in the 
 middle of which is a reservoir of water with 
 a jet d'eau. The room is entered from this side 
 under arches of white marble and from the 
 opposite or interior side by a door leading into 
 the private apartments of the palace. The roof 
 and walls are spangled with inlaid work of 
 
 (*) This is the amiable creature, of whom the Frenchman 
 says, " C'est un homme d'une beaute extreme et des 
 manieres les plus simples, les plus douces et les plus 
 elegantes," and again on parting from his friend, " J'ai 
 quitte avant-hier, le rajah Goulab-Sing, enchant e de lui 
 comme il Tetait de moi." Correspondance de Victor 
 Jacquemont, Tome ii., p. 2, 7. The etymological meaning 
 of Goolab Singh is rose-water lion. 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE. 99 
 
 various-coloured glass or stone. From the roof 
 are suspended European chandeliers ; and at each 
 end is fixed a large oblong mirror, these likewise 
 reminding one of Europe. The floor is carpeted 
 with Cashmere shawls ; and a canopy outside, 
 lined with Cashmere shawls, protects the inside 
 from the sun. Shawls too were strewed upon 
 the ground of the quadrangle, but this I presume 
 was only for the occasion. The Sirdar I6g were 
 all in their best attire, and the variety of costume 
 presented a showy spectacle. There was no 
 business to be done at this durbar: it was a 
 mere idle ceremony. The koh-i-noor ( w ) or great 
 diamond, about the size of a pigeon's egg, was 
 exhibited to the company; and the presentation 
 of shawls and swords concluded the tamasha.(f) 
 
 llth. I went to breakfast with Dr. Hoffing- 
 berger, a German Surgeon, who has been residing 
 in Lahore for many years as a manufacturer of 
 gunpowder for Seekh guns and also of medicine 
 for Seekh stomachs. As things have turned out, 
 ( w ) Mountain of Light. () Show. 
 
100 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 he has put more to death by the former trade, 
 than he has saved alive by the latter. The 
 gunpowder trade however is now exploded, and 
 
 my friend must complete his fortune by powder 
 
 -for iny c 7li4s- 
 ^02^m098&0W0!p' I went for the purpose 
 
 of complying with a request, which he made, 
 that I should baptize his children; for the per- 
 formance of which office I never saw any one 
 so grateful.^) Colonel Mouton was there, a 
 
 ( w ) By such cases one is reminded of primitive and 
 apostolic times; and what a contrast do they present to 
 the unbecoming behaviour of so many, especially among 
 the upper classes of our countrymen, who, as though from 
 the very commonness and accessibility of the Sacraments 
 and other public means of grace, do not feel their value ; 
 and who seem to regard them as matters of course, or as 
 rights to be demanded, instead of favours to be thankful 
 for,- /mtfc#ta*0^te^^ 
 
 and who 
 
 make the baptism of their children, what certainly neither 
 Scripture nor the Prayer Book makes it, a mere form, or 
 an occasion for carnal conviviality instead of spiritual joy ! 
 When Chaplain of a station, where no hindrance has existed 
 to the regular observance of the Kubrick, I have known 
 members of our Church, very gay members of " society," 
 
CAMP AT LAHORE; - I,, llQl 
 
 French Officer, late of the Seekh service. By 
 the result of the war this Officer's prospects here 
 are blighted : he is about to return to his native 
 land. Yes, Colonel Mouton, we have beaten the 
 Seekhs, even though they were trained by Officers 
 from la grande nation. 
 
 as the term is, positively appeal to the Bishop of the 
 Diocese against me and indignantly complain, because they 
 have been told that Sundays and holy days are the days 
 appointed for the public administration of infant baptism ; 
 and I have known an Officer prohibit a non-commissioned 
 Officer under his command from taking his child to the 
 Church for baptism, rather than that he should submit to 
 the intolerable hardship of having his infant christened on 
 a Sunday : the fact having been in each case, that the only 
 objection to Sunday has been the unsuitableness of the day 
 for balls and carousals. 
 
102 
 
 9. DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE. 
 
 THE Governor-General's camp left Lahore this 
 evening. A large force is to remain for the 
 protection of the Maharajah's Government; the 
 rest of the Army is to return to our own 
 provinces. All is quiet at present and there 
 is no immediate prospect of peace being inter- 
 rupted. Oh what a change have we witnessed 
 in the fortunes of that great city ! May the 
 blessings of peace and order, truth and justice, 
 be established henceforth within thy walls ! And 
 may the day be at hand, when the light of 
 Revelation shall penetrate into thy dark recesses 
 of impurity and wretchedness, and the word of 
 the living God be preached for a testimony to 
 all thy people ! O thou bloody city ! The voice 
 of the blood, which thou hast shed, and of the 
 crimes, which thou hast perpetrated, crieth from 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE. 103 
 
 the ground and will cry against thee in the 
 day of judgment. But for thy future generations 
 there is hope there is hope that they may hear 
 the glad tidings of other Blood, which has been 
 shed for thee and can change thee from the 
 filthiness of thine iniquity so soon as thou shalt 
 believe the report. 
 
 We marched to Shdlamdh BdgJi. Sir C. Napier 
 accompanied us to this place; he takes his leave 
 to-morrow morning for his own province. I have 
 not observed anything eccentric in his manner; 
 he is gentlemanly, affable, and even deferential 
 in society; and there appears nothing strange 
 about him, except his physiognomy. The bdgh 
 was put in trim and shown off to its best 
 advantage for the occasion of its being visited by 
 the Governor-General; the fountains were set 
 playing, and the whole was enlivened by the 
 music of one of our bands, who stood upon a 
 marble platform in the middle of a reservoir of 
 water. The Seekhs appear to be fond of flower- 
 gardens: there are several on a smaller scale in 
 
104 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 the neighbourhood of Lahore. Bat the formality 
 of an oriental garden is not agreeable to an 
 English eye. 
 
 12th. Pull, 10 miles. The distance that a new- 
 born camel can walk is perfectly astonishing : 
 when three or even two days old, it can walk five 
 miles; when four days, seven miles. A camel- 
 driver, in whose charge I observed a very young 
 camel trudging along by the side of its mother, 
 gave me this information. 
 
 13th. Bhopoora, 10 miles. 
 
 14th. Umritsir, 10 miles. This is a large 
 town, the most strongly fortified in the Punjab, 
 and, I suppose, next to Lahore, the dirtiest. The 
 fort is called Govindgurh. Its chief strength 
 consists in the depth and width of the ditch. But 
 I believe it has one fault: a great deal of the 
 building inside is conspicuous from without, 
 whereas the science of fortification requires that 
 nothing of the interior should be a visible object 
 for the enemy to fire at. Umritsir^), the meaning 
 (*) Umrit, ambrosia, and sir, head. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE. 105 
 
 of which is " fountain-head of holiness," is the 
 stronghold of the Seekh religion. The holy tank 
 is here, in the middle of which is the marble 
 shrine, where the holy book or Grunth Sahib is 
 kept under the perpetual charge of a chief Gooroo 
 and worshipped by crowds daily, not only by the 
 inhabitants of the town, but by pilgrims from all 
 parts. The expression of the countenances of 
 these Gooroos is that of indescribable hauteur. 
 Here too the Akalees or "immortals" reside 
 within the precincts of the holy tank. These are 
 frantic demoniacs, and it is very dangerous to go 
 near them. They are distinguished by a fiendish 
 look, blue turbans, long dishevelled hair, and 
 small iron things like horse-shoes stuck about 
 their head-dress, which they use to fling at people; 
 and they also carry a short club for the purpose, I 
 believe, of throwing at a Faringee or any one that 
 the devil incites them against. These demoniacs 
 possess an awful influence over the people, being 
 regarded as demi-gods; and when any public 
 emergency arises, a convocation of Akalees is held 
 
106 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 at Umritsir, and whatever they decree is con- 
 sidered to be the voice of heaven and acted upon 
 with universal enthusiasm. But I imagine that 
 there is an end of them now, and that these 
 holy synods will only be spoken of in the past 
 tense. 
 
 The Seekhs will admit any one into their 
 religion. The ceremony of initiation is called 
 pahul and is remarkable: water is sprinkled upon 
 the convert, and at the same time a kind of sweet- 
 meat called batdsa, cut into square bits, with wine 
 is administered to him. The ceremony must be 
 performed by five or more Seekhs together in any 
 place, no matter where, in doors or out. One of 
 them reads to the neophyte the canons of faith. 
 His initiation is then complete and he is become a 
 /UVOTTJC. He then chooses a Gooroo for himself, to 
 give him further instruction, that he may become an 
 
 ( y ) An American Missionary, who has been among them, 
 has since told me that the Seekhs have also a periodical 
 breaking and distribution of bread in token of their religious 
 union and brotherhood. 
 
DEPASTURE FROM LAHORE. 107 
 
 Most of the houses in TJmritsir are painted all 
 over with figures of men, women, beasts and 
 birds, among which the sacred peacock pre- 
 dominates. Some of the figures are very obscene. 
 
 This place is famous for its attar of roses and 
 for its shawls. The latter are inferior to the 
 Cashmere shawls, though made by Cashmerees 
 who reside here, and said to be of the same 
 materials. They say the inferiority is in the dye 
 of the thread. But I suspect the manufacture is 
 not precisely the same : they acknowledge that an 
 TJmritsir shawl will not last a quarter of the time 
 that a Cashmere one will; and the price of the 
 former is not above a quarter of the price of the 
 latter. 
 
 The Governor-General held a durbar for the 
 reception of the monster, Rajah Goolab Singh. 
 
 I5th. (Sunday). Divine Service, as usual ; 
 small congregation. There had been a heavy 
 fall of rain; the rain however had subsided at 
 1 1 o'clock, the hour of Service, nor did it prevent 
 any from going out for their own pleasure. 
 
108 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 16th. Lord Elphinstone, late Governor of 
 Madras, joined our camp a few days ago, as 
 Aide-de-Camp to the Governor -General. This 
 afternoon two men came to my tent selling attar 
 of roses and other things manufactured here. I 
 gave them some tracts in Hindoostanee, which 
 they said they could read. In the evening I 
 went to the durbar given by Goolab Singh to the 
 Governor-General at the house of Tej Singh, a short 
 distance from the fort ; and thence to Ram Bagh, 
 a garden made by Runjeet Singh, in which garden 
 there is nothing worth seeing. From the top of 
 Tej Singh's house there is a fine view of the sur- 
 rounding country, which, though flat, is beautiful 
 at this time of year, when the crops of corn are 
 full grown. The wheat grows three or four feet 
 high, bearded as in Hindoostan. The rain has made 
 the weather delightful : no temperature on earth 
 could be more delightful than this, which we 
 have enjoyed to-day. Goolab Singh has a remark- 
 able fine and handsome set of men about him, as 
 his body-guards: they are Kohistanees. The 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE. 109 
 
 Seekh way of firing a salute is very different from 
 ours : they fire with no regularity and as quick as 
 as they can. 
 
 17 th. Cung, 14 miles. The country all along 
 very fertile, covered with fine crops of wheat and 
 gram. We passed by a singular conical mound of 
 earth, looking at a distance like a small pyramid. 
 The villagers could not or would not tell us what 
 it was made for. 
 
 18th. Subdulpoor, 7 miles. Here we crossed 
 the Beeas or Hyphasis. (*) It is a large stream 
 even at this season of the year. Two bridges of 
 boats had been constructed for our passage similar 
 to those over the Sutlej at Ferozepoor, only that 
 the boats here were country affairs and most 
 ridiculous objects. We have managed therefore 
 better than the Macedonian hero, who was obliged 
 to make the same bridge serve for the Indus and 
 
 (*) Some suppose that not the Beeas or Beyah, but the 
 river Ghurra, formed by the junction of the Beeas and the 
 Sutlej, was the ancient Hyphasis. Still the derivation of 
 Beeas from Upasis or Hyphasis, "Y0a<rt, can scarcely be 
 doubted. 
 
110 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 Hydaspes, and to have the boats cut into pieces 
 and conveyed across the country from one river 
 to the other. ( a ) The Beeas is the new boundary 
 of our North- West frontier ; so that this morning 
 we encamped on our own ground and consequently 
 feel more at home. The crops of wheat on both 
 sides of the river are luxuriant. 
 
 19 th. Sultanpoor, 11 miles. We passed 
 through a continued succession of corn-fields. It 
 would be impossible for the ground to be more 
 richly covered than it is. In some places the 
 wheat was four or five feet high ; whereas in Hin- 
 doostan the straw of the wheat has always struck 
 me as being very short and stunted. So far as 
 we have seen, we have no reason to be dissatisfied 
 with our newly-acquired territory. 
 
 In all these villages or towns, that we pass 
 through, the houses are chiefly built of small 
 pukka bricks, the best of them ornamented outside 
 with figures of birds, and the walls painted with 
 various mythological or other ridiculous devices. 
 
 ( a ) See an amusing account of this in Arrian, v. 8. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE. Ill 
 
 I cannot help remarking the elaborate carving 
 of the doors and window-frames and shutters, for 
 which these people seem to have a great fancy : 
 even in the smallest village there is some 
 of it. 
 
 We came to-day through the village of Tul- 
 wundi, the birthplace of Baba Nanak, founder of 
 the Seekh religion, deluded author of delusion. 
 What associations rise in one's mind! What a 
 contrast between Tulwundi and Bethlehem! 
 
 20th.- Deccanikee Sarai, 14 miles. This district 
 is the property of Baba Bikram, a lineal descendant 
 of Nanak. A beautifully clear brook, which is a 
 rare thing in the plains of India, is to be seen at 
 this place. 
 
 2lst. Nurmahl, 10 miles. 
 22nd. Phil6r, 10 miles. The British flag is an 
 interesting object floating on the top of the fort, 
 which surrendered after the battle of Alliwal. 
 This memorable spot is about 12 miles farther 
 down the river. Phil6r is close upon the Sutlej, 
 which is a wide stream here even now. Sirdar 
 
112 SUTLEJ CAMPAIGN OF 1845-6. 
 
 Runjoor Singh crossed over here with his forces 
 and burned some of the public buildings at Loo- 
 diana, for which they received condign punishment 
 at Alliwal from Sir H. 'Smith. 
 
 This day is Sunday, but the Governor-General 
 thought it necessary to march. He went yesterday 
 to Jullunder by another road and joined the camp 
 this morning. I understand that his object in 
 marching to-day is to save time and hasten to the 
 hills, as the weather is becoming oppressively 
 warm. We had Divine Service in the afternoon. ( 6 ) 
 
 23rd. Loodidna, 6 miles. We crossed the 
 Sutlej by a bridge of boats. This station is all 
 sand, the sister of Ferozepoor, which is all dust 
 
 So much for the Campaign of 1845-6. 
 
 ( ft ) Philor is conjectured by Major James Abbott to be 
 the spot, where Alexander's progress was arrested, and 
 where he built twelve altars as memorials of his own 
 exploits and for thanksgiving to the gods. See Journal of 
 the Asiatic Society of Bengal, No. iii., 1852, " On the sites 
 of Nikaia and Boukephalon ;" also Arrian, v., 29 ; Q. Curtius, 
 ix., 3 ; Strabo, iii., 171. If so, our happening to be there on 
 the Lord's day and offering a service and worship so 
 different on the same spot was a remarkable coincidence. 
 
PART II. 
 
 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB AND UPPER 
 PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 
 
 1. 
 
 OCT. 31s, 1846. Camp, Kalka. I left Simla on 
 the 29th inst. to join the camp for another 
 marching tour. The Governor-General has gone 
 a different route through the hills via Belaspoor, 
 intending to join the camp at Hoshearpoor about 
 the end of next month. Between Simla and 
 Kalka are three bunglas for the accommodation of 
 travellers, but how different from English hotels ! 
 Still they are better than nothing; and how 
 travellers contrived before the Hon. Company's 
 staging bunglas were erected, I am at a loss to 
 conceive. In the largest of the bunglas on the 
 road down to this place there are only fourTooms, 
 
 i 
 
114 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 in the others only two. If these rooms be occupied, 
 the only alternative is to sleep outside. This was 
 my unfortunate case at Hurreepoor, where on 
 arrival I found the bungla full. I put up for the 
 night in the stable between two horses, certainly a 
 rude kind of dormitory, having neither doors nor 
 the fraction of a door, swarming with rats, and in 
 point of odour very different from " the perfumed 
 chambers of the great ; " yet I slept, and " nature's 
 soft nurse" was more efficient there, than under 
 many " canopies of costly state ; " and I remem- 
 bered that the King of kings " was laid in a 
 manger, because there was no room for them in 
 the inn." Captain Peel, Aide-de-Camp to the 
 Governor-General, wrapped himself in his cloak 
 and reposed for the night upon the bare ground 
 outside in the open air. The coolies are a whole 
 day in bringing up our luggage ;' so that I must 
 be content with one meal a day, either early in the 
 morning or late at night. This rough work how- 
 ever only lasts for three days, till we join the 
 camp at the foot of the hills. I do not feel the 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 115 
 
 change of temperature much, though by the 
 thermometer it is great. At Simla on the 28th 
 inst. the thermometer stood at noon in the shade at 
 63 Fahr., to-day it is 81. We have two acces- 
 sions to our camp-society, one a civilian, the other 
 a military officer; the latter apparently a clever 
 man. But no man can be spiritually minded, that 
 uses the name of God in vain. 
 
 Nov. 1st. Divine Service was held in the 
 morning. There were only five attendants besides 
 the men and boys 'of the Governor-General's band, 
 who are ordered to attend. Four others might 
 have attended, if they, had chosen, for they were 
 quite well and about all day. Those, who were 
 present, did not once kneel down the posture 
 enjoined by the Prayer-book and by Scripture and 
 by the very highest Example, the observance or 
 non-observance of which posture is very significant 
 of the frame of mind if the spirit pray, the body 
 must and will pray with it. But why did none of 
 the officers of the Body-guard and of the 73rd 
 Regiment N. I. in escort make their appearance ? 
 
116 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 Knowing that it is arranged to march next 
 Sunday, and knowing that there is no necessity 
 for such arrangement, I alluded in my sermon to 
 the sin of unnecessary travelling on the Lord's 
 day. 
 
 2nd. Pinjore, 4 miles. Here is a beautiful 
 garden belonging to the Rajah of Puttiala, which 
 is the name of this district. He was the only 
 Rajah of the Seekh states that stood our firm 
 ally during the late war. This garden, like the 
 Shalamah garden at Lahore, consists of several 
 terraces one above another, and appears to cover 
 as much ground. But the tanks and summer- 
 houses are not built of marble, as those in the 
 Shalamah. A canal of water runs through the 
 middle of the garden, broken by several beau- 
 tifully-constructed artificial cataracts, and orna- 
 mented with jets tfeau at frequent and regular 
 intervals all the way down, and kept in excellent 
 order. These were all set playing on occasion of 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 117 
 
 our arrival. The water is conveyed here by an 
 aqueduct from the hills. Waterfalls like these 
 over smooth wide edges are called by the natives 
 pdneekee chddur, which is literally "a sheet of 
 water" a remarkable coincidence of idiom. In 
 the evening the garden was lighted up with 
 numberless little lamps of oil : a man told me that 
 30 maunds, i. e., 2,400 Ibs. of oil were spent in the 
 illumination. The lamps were placed all round 
 the^ borders of the water and in the wall behind 
 the cascades, producing a thoroughly magic effect, 
 and round the edges of the summit of the gateway 
 and the summer-houses. The moon also shining 
 Brightly made 'the scene still more romantic. I 
 saw in this garden a row of what I do not 
 remember having observed in India before, but 
 what struck me as being poplar-trees, though 
 smaller than they grow in England. 
 
 "3rd. MunnamdjrOf 8 miles. A pretty spot. 
 A Rajah resides here. In the middle of the town 
 is a half-famished tiger in a large cage. 
 
 4th. Khurrur, 12 miles. The whole of the 
 
118 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 road heavy sand. Mornings and evenings cold, 
 noon very warm. I have dined to-day with 
 ^fepteBteSKfeasfeOB^our new commissariat-officer, 
 who seems to be a religious man. 
 
 5th. Bussee, 14^ miles. Road all sand, if it 
 can be called a road : we are going across 
 country. We started this morning at half-past 
 three o'clock, by beautiful moonlight, and arrived 
 at sunrise. Thermometer at noon 79. One of 
 the drummers of the 73rd Regiment N. I., came to 
 my tent to ask me for a Prayer-Book. From his 
 conversation I hope he is an exception to his 
 class ; the Christian musicians attached to the 
 
 of fcw ^t ar<*e.t(r. 
 
 native regiments being generally ; 
 ^^pg'^v^i I gave him some tracts. I have 
 bought to-day, as a curiosity, a large bag knitted 
 of worsted of various dyes, a manufacture of this 
 place. 
 
 6th. Kunnalikee Sardi, 13 miles. Very hot. 
 This morning I was talking with a member of the 
 camp about the spiritual character of certain 
 persons, and I mentioned to him one of them that 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 119 
 
 we both knew to have led a vicious life. My 
 friend said that I should be surprised, if I knew 
 the extent, to which the vice I referred to (illicit 
 intercourse with native women) is looked upon as 
 venial in this country by Englishmen; and he 
 told me that he once heard a Judge pronounce it 
 his opinion, that the question' of veniality was 
 very different between such intercourse with 
 European, i. e. Christian, and with native, i. e. 
 heathen women, the criminality being less in the 
 latter case, because prostitution is not considered 
 criminal by the natives, but is a recognised 
 and respected professional means of livelihood. 
 Righteous judgment to be decreed by a Christian 
 judge ! My friend remarked, that he himself 
 thought there was less amount of guilt in the 
 case of native women. But I must differ from 
 him: surely the guilt is no less, because the 
 conscience is hardened and the practice inveterate ; 
 the sin is the same in God's sight, who for the 
 prevalence of fornication destroyed the world 
 with a flood ; who listens to no excuses, regards no 
 
120 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 customs, and frowns, if possible, even more severely 
 upon a Christian joining himself to a heathen, than 
 upon the same joining himself to a Christian harlot. 
 
 7th. Dowrahkee Sardi, 13 miles. Heavy 
 sandy road. We passed that famous place, Lush- 
 kur khankee Sardi, where we were encamped last 
 December. 
 
 8th. (Sunday.) Divine Service was held in 
 the morning in the Governor-General's tent. In 
 the evening I summoned the Christian drummers 
 and fifers of the 73rd Regiment to Hindoostanee 
 prayers in my tent ; though Hindoostanee service 
 is unsatisfactory, because the congregation have 
 no books and their attention is unfixed. ( c ) We 
 were to have marched on this day, but I am glad 
 to find that the arrangement has been altered. 
 The 4th Light Cavalry, under a British officer 
 of course, on their way to the Jullunder Dooab, 
 encamped here yesterday, but proceeded to-day 
 
 () The Benares translation of the Book of Common 
 Prayer into Oordoo was not then published. It ought to be 
 possessed by all native and Eurasian Christians able to 
 read. 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 121 
 
 on their march. I believe there was no necessity 
 whatever for this non-observance of the 4th 
 Commandment by the commanding officer. 
 
 9th. Loodidna, 14 miles. What melancholy 
 vestiges are here of the barracks of Her Majesty's 
 50th Regiment, which were blown down a short 
 time ago by a storm, and buried upwards of 
 eighty bodies in their ruins I 
 
 Wth. A Seekh infantry corps is being raised 
 here; they are remarkably fine looking men; 
 most, if not all, of them six feet high, and 
 some more. The bazaar-people describe them as 
 being very independent and zubburdust (violent). 
 My friend, Captain Wake, is here with his 
 regiment. I dined with him this evening, and 
 met Major Wheeler of the same corps, who is 
 a very religious man, and takes great interest 
 in the conversion of the natives to the Christian 
 faith, and reads and talks to them in Hindoostanee 
 and distributes religious tracts amongst them. 
 Very angry to-day with my^Christian servant 
 he goes out to his acquaintances 
 
122 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 among the Christian drummers and fifers of the 
 Native Infantry Regiments, drinks and comes back 
 impertinent. 
 
 llth. Philore, 9 miles, i. e. to the Station. A 
 healthy, pretty spot. The fort is a picturesque 
 object, and the river still more so. Several 
 bunglas have been erected, and the roads cut out. 
 Thermometer at noon in the shade 79. A Pun- 
 jabee workman came to my tent to-day to do a 
 little work ; and I was struck with the humble, 
 contented manner, in which he took what I paid 
 him for it: for a Hindoostanee would perhaps 
 have scarcely said " Thank you." He was almost 
 naked. I asked him why he had no clothes on ; 
 he said that the poor people in the Punjab have 
 been accustomed to wear no clothes because of the 
 Seekhs, who used to rob them of everything, and 
 would have stripped their clothes off them, if 
 they had worn any. Riding out in the evening, 
 I met another poor man working in a field and 
 cutting sun (hemp, cannabis sativa), of the stalks 
 of which they make string and ropes ; and he too 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 123 
 
 gave me a similar account of their oppression by 
 the Seekhs, who used to come to their villages 
 and plunder ad libitum, and make the poor 
 villagers themselves carry the plunder for them 
 in loads on their heads, threatening to cut off 
 their noses, &c., if they resisted. Thanks be to 
 God, the righteous judge and avenger of the 
 oppressed, vengeance has overtaken the tyrants, 
 and the pit, which they dug for others, they have 
 fallen into the midst of it themselves. 
 
 avri de Tr\r]jriQ (poviaQ tyoviav 
 TrXvjyrjv riverw. ApdffavTi TraQtiv 
 rpiyipwv pvOoQ rdde (pwvEi. 
 
 GEsch. Choeph. 309. 
 
 " The Lord hath arisen against the house of the evil- 
 doers, and against the help of them that work iniquity." 
 Is. xxxi. 2. 
 
 I2th. Phugwdra, 14 miles. We have been 
 struck with the shortness of the distances and 
 their generally appearing less than stated by the 
 Quartermaster; but in to-day's march I am sure 
 there was no mistake ; not that I would reflect at 
 
124 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 all on the accuracy of the Quartermaster's mea- 
 surement as to the marches of other days; the 
 mistake or deception must be in ourselves. We 
 usually start at 3 or 4 o'clock in the morning, 
 which is not unpleasant, for it is cool and moon- 
 light ; and we are enabled to arrive about sunrise, 
 and our baggage comes up about 9 o'clock. 
 This morning, however, I did not arrive till 8, 
 and my luggage not till half-past ten. The fields 
 appear to be in a good state of cultivation. This 
 Jullunder Dooab is celebrated as the most fertile 
 part of the Punjab. All the poor people, men, 
 women and children, come out of their houses, as 
 we pass through the villages, to have a stare, at 
 their new masters. They look pleased, so at least 
 I fancy. That they have cause indeed to be 
 pleased already at the change of their rulers, 
 there can be no doubt. They are no longer 
 oppressed nor plundered. Everyone must acknow- 
 ledge the wisdom of the Governor-General in 
 attending without loss of time to the civil adminis- 
 tration of the territory, and thus conciliating the 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 125 
 
 people to our rule ; nor could lie well have 
 appointed a more suitable man for this work than 
 Mr. John Lawrence, Civil Service, brother of 
 Colonel Lawrence, the founder of the Hill 
 Asylum. (<*) 
 
 Nothing worth seeing here, except a walled 
 garden of ancient date, in the middle of which is 
 a square summer-house, elaborately painted inside, 
 all over the walls and ceiling, with flowers and 
 figures : it has twelve door-ways or entrances, 
 three on each side, and hence this kind of place 
 is called bdrah-dur-ee. 
 
 13th. Kanoora, 15 miles, as measured by our 
 Quartermaster. 
 
 (*) Called " The Lawrence Asylum," after its benevolent 
 founder and munificent benefactor. It is built at one of 
 th$ statipns in the Himalayas, and its object is to receive 
 
 for education the children of European soldiers, instead of 
 
 . . ... ... v "''* .-' f * " 
 their being brought up at Regimental schools in th'e heat of "" 
 
 the plains, and under the impure influence 'of \ barrack- 
 life. Like every good cause, this excellent institution had 
 at first great opposition to contend against ; but it is now in 
 a flourishing condition. It is superintended by a clergyman 
 of the Church of England. 
 
126 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 I4:th. Hoshiarpoor, 10 miles, i. e., to our camp, 
 which is in the cantonments, and 5 miles from 
 the town. A pretty spot, not far from the foot of 
 a range of hills tipped with snow. They say it is 
 cool here all the year round. Several bunglas 
 have been erected and soldiers' huts for three com- 
 panies of the 72nd Regiment N. I. I dined this 
 evening with Capt Harrison, and met two other 
 members of the camp. One of the company had 
 the peculiar faculty of falling asleep with his cigar 
 (an almost inseparable appendage to himself) in his 
 mouth, and yet at the same time being alive to 
 everything said by the others present. 
 
 1 5th. (Sunday.) Divine Service in the morn- 
 ing in the Governor-General's tent. Scarcely any 
 of the congregation kneel. 
 
 
 17th. This evening I rode on an elephant to 
 the town. The road and the country are pretty ; 
 but much of the plain bears signs of being ' 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 127 
 
 inundated during the rainy season. The town, 
 like all others in this part of the world, consists of 
 narrow filthy streets and irregular dingy buildings, 
 with a Sirdar's house or a temple here and there 
 towering above the rest. The people look disso- 
 lute. The place abounds with prostitutes decked 
 out in gaudy attire and soliciting the wages of sin. 
 The date-tree flourishes here in great abundance. 
 The myrobalan also grows here, called by the 
 natives hur or hurra, which they say is good for 
 the stomach-ache. Sugar-cane is much cultivated 
 in this neighbourhood. 
 
 19th. This morning I rode to Hoshiarpoor to 
 see the fort: there is nothing to see, but 13 guns 
 on carriages, 11 of brass, 2 of iron, some of them 
 apparently very ancient. What an interesting 
 curiosity for the British Museum would be the 
 first great gun that was ever made ! We do not 
 know for certain when such weapons of war were 
 invented. It is commonly said that ordnance was 
 first used at the battle of Cressy in 1346; but 
 Lord Bacon maintains that it was employed by the 
 
128 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 Oxidraces in India and was what the Macedonians 
 called thunder and lightning and magic; ( e ) and 
 both gunpowder and ordnance appear to have been 
 used in China from a date still more remote. 
 Some suppose that the use of cannon by Mohum- 
 med II., at the siege of Constantinople, is foretold 
 in the Book of Revelation " By these three was 
 the third part of men killed, by the fire and by the 
 smoke and by the brimstone, which issued out of 
 their mouths." ix. 18. 
 
 2lst. -The Governor-General arrived in camp 
 this evening. 
 
 22nd. (Sunday.) Divine Service in Governor- 
 General's tent. There is an Eurasian here of the 
 name of Philips, employed in the Magistrate's 
 office, who distributes religious tracts among the 
 natives and is warmly interested in the great cause 
 of their conversion. 
 
 23rd. To-day I read the burial-service over 
 the body of one of the Governor-General's band, 
 who died of inflammation in the stomach from 
 
 () Essays, Civil and Moral, 58. " Of vicissitude of things." 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 129 
 
 drinking. The wretched man was an inveterate 
 drunkard. I am told that once he gave up the 
 habit for twelve months, but took to it again. I 
 have known cases, where sobriety or perhaps total 
 abstinence has been maintained for several months, 
 but the habit has always returned; and I have 
 invariably heard officers say, that they have never 
 known a drunkard to be reclaimed. I remember 
 a poor victim of this vice in hospital at Canpoor 
 declaring to me with tears in his eyes, that the 
 propensity had so mastered him, that temperance 
 pledges were of no avail, and, though he might 
 remain sober for months, he could not shake it off. 
 Sadly striking examples of " serving. sin," "obey- 
 ing sin in the lusts thereof," " sin having dominion 
 over" one, " sin reigning in the mortal body," 
 men "yielding themselves servants of sin unto 
 death!" 
 
 I often wish that our Burial-service were 
 altered : to say over the remains of some, " as our 
 hope is this our brother doth," is not only painful 
 to the reader, but must have a bad effect upon the 
 
 K 
 
130 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 hearers. As it is, we commit to the ground with 
 these choice words of Christian comfort the remains 
 of adulterers, fornicators, drunkards, blasphemers, 
 infidels, servants of Mammon, evil-doers and evil- 
 thinkers of every sort and every class, and known 
 to be such to the last. It was not so in the 
 primitive Church. 
 
 I passed by a miserable little temple, like a 
 small hovel, with a hole in it by way of entrance 
 just large enough to admit a boy on his hands and 
 knees ; and on stooping down to look in, I saw a 
 slab of stone resting against the opposite side with 
 the figure of a snake carved in relief upon it 
 this is the object of worship. Was there not " a 
 lie in the right hand" of the artificer? and was it 
 not " the Serpent, that beguiled Eve through his 
 subtlety?" How strange, that the snake should be 
 almost universally sacred among heathen nations ! 
 
 An irregular cavalry corps, commanded by 
 Brevet Captain Quiii, and the 36th Regiment N. L, 
 have arrived at this place, which is to be their 
 station. 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 131 
 
 26th. This morning Mr. Currie left for Lahore. 
 What his errand is, I do not exactly know ; but it 
 is reported that some intrigue on the part of Lol 
 Singh has been detected, and that Mr. C. has gone 
 to arrange his removal from the wazeeree. (f) 
 
 29th. (Sunday.) Divine Service in the Gover- 
 nor-General's tent. In the afternoon I collected 
 five of the Governor-General's band into my tent 
 for a lecture ; which I mean to continue every 
 Sunday: they are very ignorant Mr. Philips 
 called on me to-day ; he tells me that the zameen- 
 ddrs( g ) and rdiyuts^ call themselves Jats; ( A ) also 
 that the Grunthees, or teachers of the Grunth, are 
 much more lukewarm and indifferent than the 
 Pundits (*') and the Moulvees (*) of Hindoostan. 
 
 Dec. 3rd. Thermometer at noon in shade 69. A 
 few days ago two Seekhs came to my tent and said 
 they were the servants of a Gooroo, and that they 
 
 (/) The ministry : wazeer is a Minister of State. 
 
 (?) Landholders and tenants. 
 
 (*) See above p. 86. 
 
 () Learned Brahmans and learned Muhummedans. 
 
132 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB 
 
 wanted to make their saldm to me. I gave them a 
 tract. To-day they came again and said the tract 
 was very good, and that they should like another 
 for their children ; so I gave them another. They 
 tell me they can procure a Grunth for me at 
 Jullunder, where we are going. I understand that 
 the natives here are very anxious to have an 
 English school established, i. e., a school for 
 teaching English. I am also informed that the 
 American missionaries of Loodiana are contem- 
 plating the establishment of a mission on this side 
 the Sutlej. Shame to the Church of England, 
 and particularly to those wealthy members of it 
 among the laity at home and in this country, who 
 ought to devote their riches to good purposes and 
 to the service of God, instead of devoting them to 
 the gratification of tisOff&&&tffy worldly pride and 
 self-love ! 
 
 4th. Sham Chowrassee, 11 miles. The Gover- 
 nor-General had issued a proclamation that people 
 from all parts of the country might come and hold 
 a fair at Hoshiarpoor, bringing their merchandise 
 
AND UPPER PROVINCES IN 1846-7. 133 
 
 there for that purpose free from duty ; but they 
 did not choose to take advantage of the proposal, 
 and no fair was held. All this country is very fertile. 
 
 Ezek. ix. 2. " One man among them was 
 clothed with linen, with a writer's inkhorn by his 
 side." I have seen this. In the hills I more than 
 once met men with an inkpot and pencase all in 
 one, made of brass or other metal, fastened to their 
 belt at one side. 
 
 5th. Kurtapoor, 12^ miles. Sandy soil all the 
 way, but every appearance of fertility. This is 
 rather a large town. A Gooroo lives in it. I went 
 to see his house. A large gateway leads into the 
 enclosure; in which on one side is the tomb of 
 some former Gooroo towering up several stories 
 and .terminating in a dome, a very picturesque 
 object ; on the other side is the Gooro.o's habita- 
 tion. I went up several flights of steps, passing 
 one or two open apartments, and at the top was 
 shown into a suite of rooms carpeted (one of them 
 with red velvet) and decorated with chandeliers of 
 glass suspended from the ceiling, with mirrors, 
 
134 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 European chairs, English time-pieces up in a 
 corner, a large musical box, glass doors, glass and 
 talc inlay-work over the pillars and ceiling, and 
 with pictures of all sizes covering the walls as 
 thickly as possible, and the most tawdry things 
 imaginable. Such rooms are called sheesha-mahul.( j ) 
 The Gooroo is certainly not a very intellectual- 
 looking man. He says the place, where he lives, 
 is 10,000 years old. He wore an English gold 
 watch, for which he said he gave R. 500. 
 
 This is one of the new stations; the 4th 
 Regiment of Native Cavalry is here. 
 
 6th. (Sunday.) Divine Service as usual. Yes- 
 terday Mr. Newbolt, of the Commissariat Depart- 
 ment, from Jullunder, called on me. I am told he 
 is a religious man , ^^jp^^^^te^^^^^ 
 <&&lfr&&^^ A real Christian 
 
 in the Indian army is a light shining in a dark 
 place. WW^/S$8&^^ 
 
 (*) f. e., a place all hung with glass. 
 
135 
 
 2. TRIAL AND CONVICTION OF RAJAH LOL 
 SINGH, AND ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE 
 GOVERNMENT OF THE PUNJAB. 
 
 7th. Byrowdl, on the river Beeas; a long 
 march of 18 miles through heavy sand, and 
 not much cultivation perceptible. We had to 
 cross a deep nuddee,( k ) the water coming up to 
 our horses' girths. It is full of quicksands and 
 very dangerous 'to ford. Though the part for 
 our crossing was marked off with bamboos, yet 
 even in this one of the artillery ammunition 
 carriages sunk, and 64 rounds of ammunition 
 were lost; and the guns would have been lost 
 too, had not the men instantly dismounted from 
 their horses, which were frightened and restive, 
 and pulled the guns out. On this side of the 
 water also are some dangerous places. I saw 
 3 camels up to their necks in quagmires ; 
 (*) A stream. 
 
136 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 the poor creatures were afterwards extricated, 
 though with extreme difficulty. I believe it is 
 always more difficult to help camels out of 
 dangerous and painful positions, than other beasts, 
 because of their excessive state of fright and 
 helplessness. 
 
 A bridge of 50 boats has been constructed here 
 across the Beeas. It is very cold now : thermo- 
 meter just before sunrise 39, at noon 62. 
 
 10th. The Beeas abounds with cyprinus roe, a 
 species of carp, good for eating ; also with a 
 species of silurus about the size of a large trout, 
 but very ugly, like a tadpole, and eaten by the 
 natives only ; also with tortoises and porpoises and 
 alligators. Some officers the other day went out 
 fishing and are said to have caught more than 
 1,900 fish. 
 
 There are a great many pea-fowl in the villages 
 round about : it is a sacred bird, and its destruc- 
 tion is not allowed by the natives. 
 
 Information has arrived that Mr. Currie has 
 executed his commission at Lahore and is expected 
 
TRIAL AND CONVICTION OF RAJAH LOL SINGH. 137 
 
 back in a few days. Lol Singh, it appears, lias 
 been found guilty of having instigated Shaikh 
 Imamoodeen to refuse to give up Cashmeer to 
 Goolab Singh according to the treaty, by which 
 we agreed that Goolab Singh should have that 
 territory in consideration of his paying us 75 lakhs 
 of rupees, (*) it having been ceded to us by the 
 Lahore Government. Lol Singh was tried in 
 open durbar on the 3rd and 4th instant in a tent 
 on the plain opposite the palace. He was defended 
 by Dewan Deena Nath, but he said nothing in 
 his own defence, when charged; and Shaikh 
 Imamoodeen produced the very letters signed, 
 which Lol Singh had privately written to him. 
 His guilt being clearly proved, the Court of 
 Inquiry, consisting of Major-General Littler, 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Lawrence, Lieutenant-Colonel 
 Goldie, Mr. Currie, and Mr. J. Lawrence, retired 
 to Mr. Currie's tent, and the Sirdars by invitation 
 accompanied them. The decision of the Court 
 was then communicated to the Sirdars, that Lol 
 O A lakh is 100,000. 
 
138 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 Singh must be deposed, or the British Govern- 
 ment could hold no correspondence with the 
 Lahore Durbar; to which decision they assented. 
 The rest of the Sirdars were then requested to 
 withdraw, and Lol Singh was left alone with the 
 British officers, who had conducted the prose- 
 cution. He was informed that he must go to 
 his own house, but that he would not be permitted 
 to enter the palace. Mr. Edwardes, Assistant to 
 Colonel Lawrence, was deputed to escort him and 
 to make him aware that he was no longer wuzeer. 
 Thus he was escorted, mounted on his elephant 
 and surrounded by his own guard, through the 
 city to his own house; where for the present 
 he is kept under surveillance, till farther measures 
 are taken with respect to his location. He will 
 probably be sent down to Benares or somewhere 
 a great distance off, to remain there for his life. 
 Shaikh Imamoodeen is set at liberty. 
 
 Some think that Goolab Singh himself, who is 
 a notorious knave and hates Lol Singh, has been 
 at the bottom of the plot and has made a fool of 
 
TRIAL AND CONVICTION OF RAJAH LOL SINGH. 139 
 
 Lol Singh for the very purpose of getting rid of 
 him. Who can dive into the depths of Oriental 
 cunning and treachery? Several battles were 
 fought between the troops of the Shaikh and 
 those of Goolab, and the Shaikh did not surrender 
 till we sent forces to Goolab's aid. Colonel 
 Lawrence has since gone into the valley of 
 Cashmeer, to ascertain that all is quiet; which 
 is the case, inasmuch as the Cashmeeries them- 
 selves took no part in the insurrection. After 
 the trial of the Rajah was over, some of the 
 Sirdars expressed their astonishment to Mr. 
 Currie, that he should have taken all the trouble 
 of trying the Rajah, when every one knew and 
 he (Mr. Currie) best of all, that there was no 
 question of his guilt. Such are their notions 
 ,$^ of 
 
 justice and open dealing. How surprised would 
 they be at many cases of our trial by jury! 
 It is to be hoped that we shall reform their 
 notions upon many subjects in process of time. 
 I am sure they must be astounded at our generous 
 
140 
 
 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 and lenient conduct towards Lol Singh and 
 towards the Lahore Government after the dis- 
 covery of this plot. Many treaties have been 
 considered null and void by civilized powers on 
 less justifiable grounds, than our treaty with 
 Lahore might have been by us on the present 
 occasion; and we have had an opportunity of 
 taking possession of the Punjab, of which we might 
 have availed ourselves with less breach of faith, 
 than has often been committed by Christian 
 Governments. Our honourable and forbearing 
 policy towards our conquered enemies must have 
 a mighty moral effect upon the native mind 
 throughout the whole of India. Such is one of the 
 inestimable blessings attendant upon Christianity. 
 
 The Government of Lahore has been placed 
 pro tempore in the- hands' of four, viz., Dewan 
 Deena Nath, Sirdar Tej Singh, Sirdar Sher 
 Singh, and Khaleefa Nooroodeen. 
 
 This morning at sunrise thermometer 36. 
 
 I rejoiced to hear the other day from Mr. 
 Currie, that our Government are about to issue 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 141 
 
 an order prohibiting the prosecution of public 
 works on Sundays.( m ) The desecration ought 
 never to have been allowed ; but the correction 
 is better late than never and does credit to Lord 
 Hardinge's administration. In excuse for the 
 employment of heathen labourers by Christian 
 masters on Sunday it is constantly alleged, that 
 the day is nothing to heathens, and that, as they 
 do not respect it, they ought to be at liberty to 
 work upon it. But is that a reason why the day 
 should be nothing to their Christian masters and 
 employers ? and is not the employment of labourers, 
 whoever they may be, forbidden? Because the 
 day is nothing to heathens, does it follow that they 
 ought to be employed by Christian masters to 
 work upon it? Did the Jews employ heathen 
 labourers on their Sabbath? for we read that 
 " their bondmen and bondmaids were of the 
 heathen that were round about them ; of them 
 
 ( m ) But I grieve to say that the order above referred to 
 has not been honoured with due observance : public works 
 are still prosecuted on Sunday. 
 
142 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 they bought bondmen and bondmaids." Levit. 
 xxv. 44. Besides, if the Lord's day is nothing to 
 heathens, still the Sunday should be something 
 for the name itself is heathen, and the day is a 
 sacred day in the Hindoo religion; its Sanskrit 
 name is rabeebdr. But, if we wish Hindoos or 
 other heathens to embrace Christianity, we shall 
 certainly not induce them to do so by showing 
 them our disregard for Divine Commandments, 
 which we profess to obey. 
 
 llth. The poor people on both sides of the 
 river appear remarkably civil. There is no , per- 
 ceptible difference between the dirty mud villages 
 and the squalid exterior and nudity of the natives 
 here and those, with which we are familiar in 
 Hindoostan. The countenances of the females are 
 just as ugly ; but I think there is greater wicked- 
 ness in the faces of the men. There are many of 
 the disbanded Seekh soldiers about, some working 
 at the plough with their old red jackets on : they 
 must find it a rather uncongenial occupation after 
 the life they have been trained to. 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 143 
 
 12th Chilblains on my feet; but no wonder: 
 the thermometer every morning before sunrise is 
 down at freezing point; and at night the sand, 
 which is the ground here, is as cold as ice, and the 
 shutrunjee ( w ) of a tent is not the least protection 
 against it. 
 
 13^/i. (Sunday.) Divine Service as usual. 
 
 14th. I understand that a British force will 
 continue to occupy Lahore, but that the wretched 
 subsidiary system, which is maintained in Oude 
 and Gwalior, will not be established here; and 
 certainly it is to be hoped not : for by this system 
 all kinds of injustice and oppression practised by 
 the native Government are countenanced' and 
 supported by British authority. 
 
 Yesterday evening I took a walk with Captain 
 Harrison, and our conversation turned upon the 
 Church in Ireland. I expressed my fear that the 
 present Ministry would be proposing to endow the 
 Church of Rome in that unhappy country. Wef 
 discussed the subject of religious toleration, con- 
 ( n ) A kind of carpet. 
 
144 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 nection of Church and State, &c. (to use the 
 conventional, but incorrect phrases). My friend 
 contended that liberty of conscience (another 
 incorrect phrase) and religious toleration, as it is 
 called, seemed almost to justify the endowment, 
 and also that the same principles seemed opposed 
 to the connection of Church and State. I main- 
 tained toleration, but not sanction and support ; 
 which two distinct and different things are gene- 
 rally confounded the one with the other. On the 
 same ground I held that Hindooism and Muhum- 
 medanism ought not to be fostered and patronized, 
 while the progress of Christianity was discouraged 
 and unsupported, by the British Government. 
 The plea of liberty of conscience might be urged 
 for the endowment and sanction of almost every- 
 thing wrong, not only hydra-headed dissent, which 
 according to its own principles might and ought 
 to multiply itself indefinitely, till every individual 
 set up himself alone as a separate sect() and 
 separate denomination (), being himself the teacher 
 () The very terms are condemned in the Epistles of 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 145 
 
 and the taught, the ruler and the ruled in one, but 
 even infidelity; and not only so, but immorality 
 also ; and not only so, but practices subversive of 
 political order and inconsistent with submission to 
 civil government practices to which not even 
 toleration could be extended. I maintained the 
 expediency of the ecclesiastical system and exter- 
 nals of the Church of England being established 
 and defended by the laws of the British State, and 
 of its being recognised as the National Church, and 
 its claim upon the State for temporal aid and 
 support ; also the duty of a Christian Government 
 to help forward the propagation of the Gospel 
 
 over vvAick \t- roles . 
 
 among heathen nations^ But what, if the State 
 betray the Church ? 
 
 1 5th. I saw some boys in a village playing at 
 ball like English school-boys. 
 
 I have just been reading this " A deaf and 
 
 St. Paul ; and yet they are used now as indicative not of 
 something to be ashamed of, not of an unchristian state of 
 schism and faction, but of an innocent or even laudable 
 state of advancement, freedom, and enlightenment, almost 
 to be boasted of. 
 
146 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 dumb boy, being asked what forgiveness was, 
 took a pencil and wrote, ' It is the sweetness, 
 which flowers give when trampled on.' " What a 
 quantity of sweetness therefore ought to proceed 
 from the poorer and humbler portion of our fallen 
 race, whose worldly condition exposes them to the 
 contumely and insolence, and ridicule and con- 
 temptuous bearing, and unjust and oppressive 
 
 dealing of the rich and proud ! and what a quan- 
 
 W 
 
 tity of " stink and ill savour must come up " from 
 
 the latter, who not only insult and wrong their 
 poorer brethren, but make their own ill odour 
 more offensive still by deeming it infra dignitatem 
 to apologize, to say, " I repent," which is the 
 divinely enjoined preliminary to forgiveness ! 
 (Luke xvii. 4.) Victims of insult and overbearing 
 pride, rejoice : " for great is your reward in 
 heaven : " for " the first shall be last and the last 
 tirst ; " and who are the chosen " heirs of the 
 kingdom," but the " poor of this world, who are 
 rich in faith ? " 
 
 /i. A species of crocodile called ghureeydl (a 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 147 
 
 Sanskrit name, but the only name it is known' by) 
 was caught in the river by a party fishing, It 
 measured in length more than 15 feet and in 
 greatest width 5 feet. It has been dissected by 
 Dr. Walker ( 9 ) ; and we found the lungs full of 
 small white pellucid worms ; 1 1 ribs on each side ; 
 the stomach very large and full of half-digested 
 fish and fishes' backbones and a quantity of stones, ^ 
 the largest of which I have in my possession, being 
 about the size of a hen's egg, which stones it is 
 supposed the animal swallows for the purpose of 
 effecting the digestion of its food, like poultry ; 
 the windpipe curved in this form xxj ; several 
 lumps of conglomerated sand inside the chest, one 
 in the throat ; two bullets of lead, one in the 
 pericardium, the other in the vicinity of the penis, 
 which must have been there a long time, as they 
 were grown over with membrane and fat ; the 
 intestines 23 feet in length ; the testicles very 
 large and inside the abdomen ; excito-motory con- 
 vulsion strong during dissection. The animal has 
 (?) Surgeon to the Governor- General. 
 
148 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 an elongated snout about 2 feet in length, full of 
 large teeth, with a protuberance of flesh at the end 
 furnished with nostrils, which it raises above the 
 water to inhale air : I have often seen it in this 
 position in the Ganges, remaining so for a long 
 time in the same spot near the edge of the river. 
 This species of crocodile abounds in the Ganges 
 
 and is harmless. 
 
 
 ITth. This evening I saw some village boys 
 
 lustily playing at bandy; I never saw boys in 
 Hindoostan playing at any game of the kind. No 
 doubt these active sports have something to do 
 with the fine athletic figures and constitutions of 
 the natives here, just as in our own country. 
 
 I&th. Anniversary of the battle of Moodkee ; 
 no commemoration of the day. This evening Mr. 
 Currie returned from Lahore. At present affairs 
 have a more pacific aspect. Arrangements will be 
 made for the supremacy of British authority at 
 Lahore: our troops will remain there; our laws 
 will be gradually introduced. The possession of the 
 Punjab is virtually ours, though the Maharajah is 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 149 
 
 acknowledged and a nominal Seekh Government 
 will be maintained. The Maharajah is to come 
 here on a visit to the Governor-General next 
 week, and the Governor-General will return it by 
 going to Lahore. 
 
 20th. (Sunday.) Divine Service as usual. Last 
 night we had a sharp shower with a loud clap of 
 thunder ; to-day the air is warmer than it was, but 
 still delightfully cool. 
 
 2lst Anniversary of the battle of Ferozeshahr. 
 The Governor-General entertained a large party 
 at dinner, and after dinner made an appropriate 
 speech. 
 
 One part of the Governor-General's wise policy 
 now is the formation of regiments out of the dis- 
 banded Khalsa troops, who otherwise might be 
 devising mischief. 
 
 25th. Divine Service for Christmas-day. 
 Congregation smaller than usual only between 
 20 and 30 besides the band-boys ; yet there are 
 now in the camp the Body-guard, the 73rd Regi- 
 ment N. I., the 2nd European L. I., and a troop 
 
150 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 of Horse Artillery. The Commander-in-Chief 
 attended our Service. He has come to be present 
 at the durbar to-morrow, which is to be held for 
 the ratification of a fresh treaty with the Lahore 
 Government, the treaty having been made on the 
 16th inst. This treaty differs from the first only 
 in the 15th article, which stipulated the withdrawal 
 of our troops at the end of the year, whereas the 
 engagement now is, that, as the Seekh Sirdars 
 cannot form a Government themselves, we keep 
 our troops (10,000) there till the Maharajah 
 attains his majority, i. e., for eight years ; that the 
 government then be handed over to him and our 
 troops withdrawn ; that Colonel Lawrence be Re- 
 sident at Lahore and have supreme jurisdiction, 
 while a Council of five Sirdars under him shall 
 conduct the different departments of administra- 
 tion ; that our troops be paid by the Lahore 
 Government 22 lakhs of rupees a year. 
 
 26th. Maharajah Dhuleep Singh arrived at the 
 Governor-General's durbar-tent at 10 o'clock A.M. 
 The Maharajah signed the treaty. The Governor- 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 151 
 
 General, seated on his vice-royal throne, delivered 
 an address explaining the object of the British 
 Government to be the welfare of the Lahore 
 kingdom. Among the Chiefs, who were present, 
 was the famous Shaikh Imamoodeen. During the 
 address, which was interpreted to them by Mr. 
 Currie, the Chiefs appeared perfectly listless and 
 apathetic; but I understand they are dissatisfied 
 and disappointed, and that they repented imme- 
 diately after they had given assent to the terms of 
 this treaty, which had been proposed to them at 
 Lahore as the only alternative, if we were not at 
 once and altogether to abandon their country. 
 The durbar closed, as usual, with a profusion of 
 nuzzurs consisting of jewels, shawls, guns, &c., the 
 only part of the ceremony that seemed to interest 
 and animate the Sirdar-log. All parties on our 
 side seem to agree in affirming the wisdom of this 
 present arrangement, even those, who entertain 
 adverse opinions about the Governor-General's 
 original policy. Truly a proud position is now 
 occupied by the British Government ; and how 
 
152 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 humiliating is that now occupied by our late 
 antagonists ! 
 
 27th. (Sunday.) Divine Service. Lord and 
 Lady Gough attended. They leave to-morrow. 
 My sermon of Christmas-day gave offence to one 
 of the congregation then present, because I spoke 
 of infidelity (meaning a disbelief in the peculiar 
 doctrines of the New Testament) as criminal, he 
 himself being a sceptic. The same offence has 
 been occasioned by these doctrines from the very 
 first day of their promulgation. Nor is it in the 
 power of the Ministers of Christ to make or to 
 prove infidelity less criminal, than He Himself has 
 made it : " he that believeth not, shall be 
 damned ; " ( r ) " he shall not see life, but the wrath 
 of God abideth on him ; " ( s ) " if the Gospel be hid, 
 it is hid to them that are lost." (') 
 
 28 th. Jundidla, 15 miles, en route to Lahore. 
 
 29th. Umritsir, 13 miles. Streets and people 
 as dirty, as when I saw them last year. I went 
 to-day to see the holy tank -and the shrine, where 
 
 ( r ) Mark xvi. 16. (*) John iii. 36. (*) 2 Cor. iv. 3. 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 153 
 
 the oldest and most precious copy of the Grunih is 
 kept. But they would not allow me to enter the 
 sacred enclosure without taking off my boots. ( u ) 
 The tank is not visible from the outside of the 
 enclosure, this being surrounded by high buildings 
 and only accessible at one corner. The enclosure 
 and the tank are square, with a broad paved walk 
 all round. The sides of the quadrangle are occu- 
 pied with the houses of Gooroos and Rajahs. Many 
 Akalees also live here in gloomy-looking holes 
 like dungeons. Besides the iron instruments like 
 quoits or horse-shoes stuck in their head-dress, ( v ) 
 these demoniacs carry also a short club to throw at 
 the objects of their fury; such weapons corre- 
 sponding, I suppose, in the quality they are 
 charged with to the brahm-dstur. ( w ) I saw several 
 
 ( w ) I see no harm in my compliance. Rom. xiv. and 
 1 Cor. viii. do not apply to such a case. But some people 
 " strain at a gnat and swallow a camel." 
 
 ( v ) See above, p. 105. 
 
 ( w ) A fabled weapon, which, after consecration by a 
 formula addressed to Brahma, deals infallible destruction to 
 those, against whom it is discharged. 
 
154 TOUH IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 of these wretched creatures about. Two years ago 
 it would have been dangerous for a Faringee to be 
 so near them. In the middle of the tank is the 
 shrine, of white marble, square, two stories high, 
 the exterior covered with gold, except in parts 
 where it is inlaid. The Grunth Sahib (so called 
 by way of respect) is kept inside on the floor, 
 covered with a cloth, so that no one can see it, and 
 over the cloth is a canopy of red velvet. Behind 
 it sits an aged Gooroo, with a chowree (*) to keep 
 off the flies or anything whose contact might 
 pollute the holy thing. In front of it is a heap of 
 shells (kowrees), which are the votive offerings of 
 the people to the sacred book. On each side of 
 the old white-bearded Gooroo sit a number of 
 other Gooroos, and on one side musicians playing 
 on their drums and sitdrs. ( y ) In front of all, 
 crowding in at the doorway, are the people, who 
 come to worship, the object of worship being the 
 Grunth. The place swarms with people all day 
 
 (*) A large waving brush. 
 
 ( y ) A kind of guitar with three strings. 
 
ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE GOVERNMENT, ETC. 155 
 
 long, not only the inhabitants of TJmritsir, but 
 pilgrims from all parts of the country. The 
 shrine is connected with one side of the tank by a 
 handsome broad viaduct of white marble. I asked 
 if I could see the book, but was not allowed. It 
 is never uncovered, except early in the morning. 
 The old Gooroo sent me by the hand of one of 
 the dirty people present a sloppy piece of his 
 sweetmeat to eat, as a great honor. He never 
 leaves his place, they say, except at midnight : he 
 has three fellow-labourers, who take the duty in 
 turn with him. In another part of the quadrangle 
 is a building with a gilt dome, which I believe is 
 their senate-house. A. fine view of the town is 
 commanded from the top of some of the minars. 
 In walking round the square I passed by several 
 Grunths, all covered up except one, some out of 
 doors on the ground, others in small shrines. The 
 whole was built in the reign of Runjeet Singh. 
 In returning home my eye was caught by a dis- 
 gustingly indecent figure in front of one of the 
 houses. 
 
156 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 I could not obtain admittance into the fort, 
 Govindgurh, in consequence of some order that 
 has been issued by the Governor-General. During 
 our stay here two of our own sentries have been 
 posted at the gate of the fort ; a circumstance 
 which deserves remark : as it seems to presage 
 our actual possession of Govindgurh some day or 
 other. 
 
 I hear that in the Jullunder Dooab, since our 
 possession of it, a lakh of rupees has reverted to 
 the people in the form of immunity from taxes, 
 which used to be levied by the Seekh government : 
 the Seekhs used to tax almost every article that 
 can be named nearly as bad as Vespasian and 
 not much worse than a great and illustrious State 
 of modern times, for which however I have a 
 most patriotic veneration. 
 
 30th. Bhopoora, 10 miles. 
 
 3lst. Kunchuni6nkapull( z ) (bridge of dancing 
 girls or harlots), 10 miles. 
 
 (*) Called simply pull in the former journal. 
 
157 
 
 3. THE CITY OF LAHORE: 
 
 . 
 
 JAN. 1**, IStf.Shdlamdh, 10 .miles. The fa- 
 mous garden h&r&twas .illuminated this evening, 
 and the Governor*GeneraPs Arrival again in this 
 neighbourhood was celebrated with a display of 
 fireworks. The rockets were good; the style of 
 illumination was the same as that at Pinjore. 
 
 The beginning of another year. Praised be 
 God. Why has He kept me in this world till 
 now ? To try me longer ; to give me additional 
 time and opportunities for more perfect obedience 
 to his will and greater meetness for heaven. Alas ! 
 how little use have I made of his goodness ! how 
 little have I done in my Master's cause ! Afs#/ 
 /###yt*^ 
 
 wffgiri^^ 
 /#wg^^ 
 
158 
 
 TOUE IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 2nd. Lahore. Our camp is close to the walls 
 of the palace. The troops were all drawn out in 
 a line round the camp and inspected by Lord 
 Hardinge in company with the Maharajah and the 
 Ranee,( a ) who was of course concealed from view 
 in a palankeen. 
 
 3rd. (Sunday.) Divine service, as usual, in 
 the Governor-General's tent. Thin congregation. 
 Captain Say, 45th N.L, a religious man, whose 
 acquaintance I had made at' Simla, spent the day 
 with* me. AfteV service* General* L'iftlei? called on 
 me: * In "the eVehiftg CapMh ' Sa'y 'arid ' Fwalked 
 
 \ a y TKe queen, wtfo'Ms a most abandoned dharacter. 
 
THE CITY OF LAHORE. 159 
 
 round the walls of the city, about three miles and 
 a half in circuit, and met with five drunken Euro- 
 peans in succession; two of whom I conducted 
 home with the aid of two seepahees, whom we 
 procured from the officer in charge of one of the 
 city-gates, fearing lest, if they remained all night 
 in the place where they were, they might be mur- 
 dered and stripped. What a shocking exhibition 
 of our religious and moral character to the Seekhs ! 
 The stuff these wretched countrymen of ours 
 drink is the same vile spirit, with which the 
 Seekhs intoxicate themselves. 
 
 I am glad to find that Divine Service is held 
 here every Sunday: the morning prayer, of our 
 Liturgy is offered in the open air, and Brigadier 
 Eckford leads the devotions. This at least must 
 show the Seekhs that we have a professed religion. 
 I wish some able missionary were here to tell 
 them more about it. I am pleased to hear from 
 Brigadier Eckford, that on the whole the Euro- 
 pean soldiers have been orderly and sober. 
 
 4th. The inhabitants of the city appear as 
 
160 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 quiet and civil, as if we had ruled them for a 
 hundred years. Dyce Anund, so called because a 
 Mr. Dyce was his godfather, son of Anund 
 Mussee, paid me a visit to-day ; he is appointed 
 adjutant in one of the Seekh regiments here. He 
 tells me that he has in his possession a Ved two 
 hundred years old ; in which mention is made of 
 the Messiah as being Lord of all things in heaven 
 and earth.( 6 ) I called on General Littler, Colonel 
 Lawrence, and Brigadier Eckford, each of whom 
 has comfortable quarters in the city. 
 
 5th. I visited the tomb of king Jehangeer 
 across the river, the ancient Hydraotes, now 
 called Ravee. Like all other royal Mohummedan 
 tombs, it is very handsome. I was struck with 
 surprise at not being asked to take off my boots ; 
 I inquired the reason, and the men in charge re- 
 plied, that, because the Sahib log would not take 
 
 ( 6 ) He afterwards sent me a copy of the passage he re- 
 ferred to, taken from the 4th chapter of the Reeg Ved, in 
 which the word Musih occurs; but I have not seen the 
 original ; besides, in the copied passage I can see nothing 
 necessarily beyond a mere verbal or syllabic coincidence. 
 
THE CITY OF LAHORE. 161 
 
 off their boots, therefore they had given up asking 
 them. The tomb is in a dilapidated state, and no 
 one cares about its repair. I also visited Runjeet 
 Singh's tomb, which is within the walls of the city 
 under the palace ; it is superbly adorned with 
 gold, &c. What a contrast to the simple tumulus 
 of the Christian cottager in a village-churchyard 
 at home ! 
 
 I dined this evening with Colonel Lawrence, 
 who is living in Soochet Singh's house. The 
 houses of the Seekhs are built with strong thick 
 walls, an open court in the middle, and three or 
 four stories high; the apartments are small, the 
 offices on the ground floor, and the rooms for 
 the family above ; the houses are very hot in 
 summer. 
 
 6th. Moulvee Tajdeen, nephew of Khaleefa 
 Nooroodeen, and son of Imamoodeen, called with 
 Dyce Anund on me to-day, to ask me a few -ques- 
 tions about our religion. He inquired, what was 
 the great commandment of our law; what was 
 the difference between Roman Catholic and Pro- 
 
 M 
 
162 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 testant (alas! that such differences should exist 
 and form a stumbling-block to the heathen); in 
 what language the Scriptures were originally 
 written ; and when Christ will come again, as he 
 had heard it was the opinion and announcement of 
 Dr. Joseph Wolff, who visited Lahore in Runjeet 
 Singh's time, that Christ would return in 1845. 
 He said that he could not understand the justice 
 of an innocent person dying for the guilty ; but I 
 told him that it was the infinite love of God towards 
 His fallen creatures, upon which he seemed to 
 have less difficulty in understanding the justice. 
 He appears anxious to prosecute his inquiries. He 
 has a copy of Martyn's Oordoo New Testament ; 
 so I gave him a Prayer-book in Oordoo and some 
 tracts, which he seemed glad to accept. When he 
 shook hands with me at parting, he had a gold 
 coin in his hand, which he meant, according to 
 custom, to offer me as a nuzzur, but which I left 
 where it was. His father built the fort, Govind- 
 gurh, about forty years ago. The Seekhs gene- 
 rally are not disposed to learn what our religion is, 
 
THE CITY OF LAHORE. 163 
 
 and they have no doubts or misgivings about their 
 own. 
 
 There are no Jews in Lahore ; one lived here 
 some years ago, a merchant ; but, as far as I can 
 learn, not one of that scattered and most interest- 
 ing people, still " beloved for the fathers' sakes," 
 is residing here at present. 
 
 The Maharajah held a durbar to-day for the 
 Governor-General in the beautiful hall of aaidience. 
 The two hours were occupied with conversation of 
 no importance and the presentation of nuzzurs. 
 Dhuleep Singh is a sharp intelligent-looking boy. 
 
 Before I went in, on dismounting I left in my 
 sdees*s ( c ) charge a Prayer-book, which I had occa- 
 sion to use, and a pistol, which I had just bought 
 as a curiosity, (strange companions certainly); 
 when I came out and perceived they were missing, 
 I asked him what had become of them, and he told 
 me, with the most innocent surprise at my ques- 
 tion, that during my absence somebody had come 
 to him with a message from me that I wanted 
 ( c ) Groom's. 
 
164 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 them immediately a trick, which I consider 
 quite worthy of a first-rate London sharper. 
 
 Tth. The Governor-General had a large din- 
 ner-party. After dinner came in by invitation 
 Sirdars Tej Singh and Sher Singh and the rest of 
 the Council of Agency ; they sat round on each 
 side of the Governor-General at a little distance 
 from the table; while his Lordship gave some 
 toasts, one of which was the health of the Maha- 
 rajah, another that of Tej Singh and his compeers, 
 the toasts being drunk with enthusiastic hurrahs, 
 which the honoured guests would not perhaps at 
 the time understand, but which would no doubt 
 be explained to them. Several of them were 
 murderers, and, I dare say, would have no objec- 
 tion, if occasion served, to cut our throats. 
 
 Colonel Cortlandt, commanding a Seekh bat- 
 talion, called on me to-day. He informed me that 
 he had seen a spot on the other side of the Jhelum 
 (ancient Hydaspes), where is a large conical 
 building of stone, supposed to have been erected 
 by Alexander the Great; that there are no steps for 
 
THE CITY OF LAHORE. 165 
 
 ascending it ; that at the top is a cistern for water, 
 and at the bottom was discovered by General 
 Ventura, who had an excavation made from the 
 top, a large solid stone enclosing three chests 
 or boxes, one of copper, round which were stuck 
 copper coins, another of silver inside it with silver 
 coins, and inside that again another of gold con- 
 taining gold coins ; and that the neighbourhood 
 abounds with coins, but on this side of the Jhelum 
 none are found. He says that numbers of coins 
 are hawked about the country, being chiefly those 
 of Menander's reign, but that many are counterfeit. 
 He describes the people of Kafiristan (or land of 
 infidels, as the Mohummedans call them, with whom 
 the Mohummedans are continually waging war,) as 
 being a fine athletic race and exhibiting strongly 
 marked traces of Grecian origin; though at the 
 same time he says they have Roman noses. 
 
 8th. I went this morning to Colonel Cortlandt's 
 house in the cantonments at Meeanmeer to break- 
 fast and to baptize his child. One of the sponsors 
 was Colonel Steinbach, formerly, in the Seekh 
 
166 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 service. As a mark of gratitude, which I am 
 sure from their manner towards me and their 
 reverential demeanour during the baptismal ser- 
 vice they deeply felt, Colonel and Mrs. Cortlandt 
 presented me with a handsome chuga( d } of green 
 silk embroidered with gold, such as is worn by 
 the Sirdars. 
 
 I dined at General Littler's and sat next to an 
 officer, who thinks that the Jews will soon be 
 restored to their country as Jews and will be a 
 great political Power and assist in destroying the 
 Church of Rome and the Mohummedan 'delusion, 
 and that they are the Ancient of days and also 
 the Stone, which should break the image to pieces, 
 mentioned by Daniel the prophet. What constant 
 proof we have, that it is far wiser for men and 
 women " not to exercise themselves in great mat- 
 ters and in things too high for them!"(Ps. 131.) 
 What excellent advice is given by the author of 
 " The imitation of Christ ! " " Never read the 
 Word of God in order to appear more learned or 
 ( rf ) A cloak with sleeves. 
 
THE CITY OF LAHORE. 167 
 
 more wise. Be studious for the mortification of 
 thy sins : for this will profit thee more, than the 
 knowledge of many difficult questions." " A man 
 profits more by loving God and forsaking all 
 things, than in studying subtleties." (B. iv. ch. 
 43.) 
 
 The dogs here are an intolerable nuisance and 
 infest every part of the neighbourhood : one can- 
 not take a ride without being tormented by a pack 
 of them. Maharajah Runjeet Singh used to pay 
 for their being fed, and the custom of feeding 
 them remains to this day, but the pay, I imagine, 
 is discontinued. The natives have a superstitious 
 reverence for these brutes and never destroy them. 
 The same feeling prevails in Hindoostan, and a 
 regard for brute life connected with a belief in 
 metempsychosis. How strangely inconsistent with 
 the too common disregard for human life ! 
 
 On my return home I found on my table a note 
 recommending that, as I did not appear at the 
 Maharajah's durbar on the 6th inst. and my pre- 
 sent on that occasion would have been a pearl 
 
168 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 necklace and a pair of gold bangles, I should 
 attend at the palace to-morrow for the purpose of 
 being invested with my insignia; as if it were 
 likely I should go how ridiculous ! and the note 
 is written by a native Christian kindly meant, 
 but how childish ! 
 
 9th. The Governor-General held a durbar for 
 the reception of the Maharajah. 
 
 IQth. (Sunday.) Divine service, as usual. 
 Many of the soldiers in hospital here are suffering 
 from sore eyes. This complaint is not uncommon 
 among our soldiers in India. It is said that some 
 of them purposely injure their own eyes, to escape 
 from service and return to England ; and that the 
 diagnostics of surgical science cannot always 
 detect the trickery ; but I think such cases must 
 be rare.( e ) I have given New Testaments and 
 
 ( e ) I understand that now soldiers, who become blind in 
 India from ophthalmia, are not allowed to return to Europe : 
 the object being to deter men from the imposture above- 
 mentioned. But this regulation falls heavy and hard upon 
 the innocent. 
 
THE CITY OF LAHORE. 169 
 
 tracts to several of the sick men, who have been 
 glad to receive them. I do not know how it is : 
 every soldier ought to have his Bible and Prayer- 
 book ; but I very rarely find in hospitals more 
 than one or two, and when I ask where their 
 Bibles are, the usual answer is either, " I have 
 lost it," or "It is locked up in my box." A 
 Roman Catholic priest has arrived at Lahore and 
 visits the hospitals. No chaplain of our church 
 has been sent here yet ; but I believe one is to be 
 appointed to this important sphere of labour. 
 Brigadier Eckford talks to the men in hospital 
 about " the things which belong to their ever- 
 lasting peace;" he accompanied me there this 
 afternoon. We are thankful for the co-operation 
 of pious laymen, aasfeBBgjm&glfe^^ 
 
 Many of our doings have astonished the natives, 
 
170 TOTJK IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 and not least of all, our taking the trouble to 
 clean their streets for them. Since our occupation 
 of Lahore, the streets are quite clean, compared 
 with what they were before. They must think 
 the Farunghees a strange set of people. 
 
 We are to leave Lahore to-morrow ; and I think 
 we may leave it this time with the following re- 
 flections : that the wise policy of the JBritish 
 Government in the last treaty has a threefold evi- 
 dence: 1st. The fact, that the continuance of our 
 military occupation of the city and our super- 
 intendence of the administration of the country 
 were solicited by the Lahore Durbar; 2nd. The 
 daily diminution of their power and resources for 
 mischief by the annual payment to us of 22 lakhs 
 of 'Rupee's from ; the Lahore* Government; 3rd. 
 The "prepaf ation for Avoidance' of bloodshed and 
 for greater facility? in effecting, should 'circum- 
 stances "heefter compel- iis to* effect, our final 
 possession of the" country ; in which case, as natural 
 philosophers used to say that "' compdsitio est 
 opus hominum, mixtio opus naturce" so the present 
 
THE CITY OF LAHORE. 171 
 
 policy of our Government would be well calcu- 
 lated to produce the latter out of the former, or a 
 perfect union and amalgamation out of an imper- 
 fect : moreover that the humanizing and correct- 
 ing influences of Christian civilization will be 
 introduced, and thus infanticide and other enormi- 
 ties, now held lawful, will in time be made criminal 
 and abolished by the gradual adoption of our laws, 
 as they are indeed already condemned by the 
 dictates of common humanity and by every human 
 conscience, unless or until distorted and hardened 
 by vicious training and vicious practice : also that 
 a way is now effectually opened for that most 
 important and primary work of all, the communi- 
 cation of the awakening, alarming, and inviting 
 messages of the Christian revelation. 
 
172 
 
 4. DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE AND PRO- 
 SECUTION OF THE TOUR TO THE 
 FOOT OF THE HILLS. 
 
 HTH. Dahooree, 12 miles; but Colonel Benson, 
 Dr. Walker and myself, missed the road and made 
 the distance about 18 miles. 
 
 12 th. Berdnee, 11 miles. 
 
 13th. Bhynee, 13 J miles. Our three last 
 marches have been almost entirely through jungul. 
 The scantiness of culture is owing no doubt to the 
 thinness of the population. Much of Hindoostan 
 is unproductive from the same cause. If peace 
 continue here under our rule, the population will 
 increase and this fertile soil be turned to good 
 account. But "where Ottoman's horse sets his 
 foot, people will come up very thin." 
 
 14th. Putteh, 8 miles. Very poor cultivation. 
 This is a Mohummedan town and the people say 
 there is not one Seekh in it. 
 
DEPASTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 173 
 
 1 5th. Ifurreektte puttun, 10 miles. Puttun is 
 probably L q. pultun, regiment, which is not an 
 Oriental word, but a corruption of battalion. 
 Hurree is supposed to be i. q. Hercules, from 
 whom therefore this place is said to have derived 
 its name ; (f) but it is a Sanskrit word and a name 
 of Vishnoo, and so, if Hindoo mythology be partly 
 derived from Greece, the identity between Her- 
 cules and Vishnoo would seem obvious, and not 
 that between Jesus and Vishnoo, as if these might 
 be the same word in different forms. Here is the 
 ford, where Rajah Lol Singh with part of the Seekh 
 force crossed before the battle of Ferozeshuhr; 
 the rest crossed at Atareewolla lower down ; and 
 here they all crossed after the battle. 
 
 16th. Bootawoolla, 6 miles down the river. 
 This place is about two miles from Sobraon, where 
 the battle was fought, or two miles from the river ; 
 
 (f) Major James Abbott says, " The name Hericulea is 
 still borne by women in Bengal." On the sites of Nikaia 
 and Boukephalon. Journal of the Asiatic Society of 
 Bengal, No. iii., 1852, p. 249. 
 
174 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 for the river was close in the rear of the Seekh 
 trenches. A considerable part of the entrench- 
 ments still remains, though a large portion of the 
 field of battle has been swept away by the 
 encroachments of the river. A great part of the 
 wall has been knocked or worn down and is not 
 now half the height it \vas; and a great part of 
 the ditches has been filled up, perhaps with dead 
 bodies, perhaps with alluvion from the ruins. I 
 saw a pile of stones at one point of the battery, to 
 mark the place where General Dick's division 
 attacked and where he fell. Rhodawolla is be- 
 tween Bootawolla and Sobraon. All the villages 
 here are Mohummedan and so much alike, that it 
 is difficult to find one's road in the distant open 
 plain covered with low jungul. 
 
 17 th. (Sunday.) Divine service as usual. 
 
 19th. Ahmedwolla, 8^ miles. Desert plain. 
 
 20th. Ferozeshuhr, 8 miles. Bushy jungul all 
 the way. Traces of the great battle are still per- 
 ceptible in skulls and bones and rags and frag- 
 ments of red jackets strewed about the plain. I 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 175 
 
 could discover no remains of the trenches, though 
 some, who were in the engagement, say they might 
 be traced. In one spot is a cluster of graves, 
 where some of our countrymen must have been 
 buried. A quantity of dried skin, like leather, 
 lies scattered about, which I am assured by the 
 natives is human skin parched and hardened by 
 the sun. I found one skull partly covered with 
 skin and hair, the skin being in the state just 
 described. I was amused at some of our see- 
 pahees, who were looking at one of the sjmlls and 
 showed it to me as something very wonderful: 
 for, pointing out the serrated sutures, they de- 
 clared that it was writing, and, though not legible 
 to them nor to me, whom they asked to interpret 
 * the writing, God had engraved it there at his first 
 formation to mark the man's destiny in letters on 
 his skull. 
 
 2lst. Moodkee, 8 miles. Between two and three 
 miles from Moodkee is the village of Loham, 
 where the battle ended, being about a mile and a 
 half from where it began, i. e. from the entrance 
 
176 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 into the thick high bush-jungul, which covers most 
 of the intervening ground: so that last year's 
 accounts were exaggerated, which stated that we 
 pursued the enemy four or five miles. But what 
 a place for a field of battle ! I see no remains on 
 the ground except bones of beasts. Our camp is 
 pitched on nearly the same spot, which it occupied 
 last year. A cluster of little mounds close by 
 marks the burial place of some of our brave 
 brethren. 
 
 22nd. Bhdga purdna, 16 miles. We came by 
 the same heavy sandy road last year with the 
 army ; I remember it perfectly, and especially one 
 or two spots associated in my mind with particular 
 incidents; one is the spot, where we received a 
 false report of the approach of the enemy and the 
 troops were ordered to form into line and the 
 artillery to unlimber; though the same evening 
 proved that the enemy were not very far off. The 
 weather is unusually warm for this season of the 
 year. 
 
 23rd. Wudnee, 12 miles. Unpleasant recol- 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 177 
 
 lection of the appearance of the fort last year. 
 The Governor-General was pleased to thank me 
 for my sermon of last Sunday : I firmly believe it 
 was nothing but the truth. 
 
 24th. (Sunday.) Divine Service as iisual. A 
 rainy day. m0fflp/A 
 
 25th. Bussean, 16 miles. Fine cultivation of 
 wheat, gram, and mustard. Cold wind all day, 
 and heavy rain in the evening. 
 
 26th. Lohdt-buddea, 10 miles. Rain prevented 
 our marching before breakfast ; so we marched 
 after, but part of the camp remained behind to 
 come on to-morrow. We did not however escape 
 from the contributions of the clouds, and all day 
 with very little interval the contents of " the 
 bottles of heaven" have been pouring down. The 
 ground is one complete puddle. No shelter for 
 the poor horses, and not an inch of dry bed for 
 them at night ; mine however together with my 
 servants were accommodated during part of the 
 
 N 
 
178 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 day in the verandahs of my tent. On such days 
 as this the native servants and camp-followers 
 cannot bake their chapdtees or cook anything out 
 of doors, and so most of them get nothing to eat. 
 But fasting is much easier to Oriental stomachs, 
 th'arf it '"is* to ours. My own dinner to-day was 
 cooked in the verandah of my tent, which of 
 course was filled with smoke; but I thought it 
 better to be half-blinded than half-famished. 
 
 27th. Incessant rain last night, and the ground 
 of the verandahs, where the servants slept, almost 
 as wet as out of doors. Fourteen natives of our 
 camp, besides cattle, have died from exposure to 
 the wet and cold. The wonder is, how any poor 
 wretches, that live on chapdtees and water and 
 have no covering, but what is barely sufficient for 
 decency, could survive such exposure after a 
 whole day's fasting. 
 
 28 th. Anniversary of Alleewal. Fine weather. 
 We have been halting, to allow time for the tents 
 at the former encamping ground to dry and be 
 brought on. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 179 
 
 29th. Mullair kotla, 14^ miles. This is a large 
 walled town ; a Nawab lives here, whose name is 
 Soobah Khan, son of Ameer Khan, and he came 
 out to meet the Governor-General. I understand 
 this Nawab took part against us in the late war. 
 In all this country, that we are passing through, 
 the cultivation is very rich. The farmers under- 
 stand well how to protect their fields with hedges : 
 the material being a sort of dead bramble, not 
 indeed to be compared with our quick-set hedges in 
 England, but still quite sufficient to keep out any 
 cattle, &c. The camp-followers, though strictly 
 w r atched and punished, when caught plundering, 
 steal this hedge-wood to burn, and the sound pro- 
 duced is certainly a " crackling of thorns." The 
 natives delight in a great blaze; they all stand 
 round it in a ring, and when the blaze lias sub- 
 sided, they sit round the ashes, as long as a spark 
 remains, and smoke their hookkas, chattering 
 about pysa and khdna, the all-absorbing and 
 almost the only topics of conversation with them. 
 The other day some villanous camp-followers 
 
180 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 stole a quantity of tins hedge-wood and made the 
 poor raiyuts, to whom it belonged, carry it for 
 them to the camp, beating them along the road 
 with their sticks and clubs, which they pretend to 
 keep for self-defence. To-day and yesterday the 
 air has been more English, than I ever remember 
 feeling it in India; and the wind ha been cold 
 and bracing. 
 
 30th. Oomergurh, 10 miles. Sharp wind. 
 
 3lst. (Sunday.) Ndbah, 12 miles. The rea- 
 son I have heard assigned for marching to-day is, 
 that his Lordship thought it better to leave the 
 wet ground, where we were encamped yesterday. 
 Divine Service was held as usual ; but of course 
 few were able to attend. I am sorry to hear that 
 office work is constantly done in camp on Sundays: 
 no doubt it is sometimes necessary ; but the 
 natives do not understand the consistency of such 
 practice with our professed religion. How dif- 
 ferent however is the observance of Sunday now 
 in India from what it was, or rather was not, in 
 former days, before any chaplains or churches 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 181 
 
 existed in the country, when the natives, at a loss 
 to conceive what our religion could be, and per- 
 ceiving no better signs of it, concluded that the 
 pacing of the Sahibs up and down the verandahs 
 of their bunglds must be their pooja.( g ) A Rajah 
 resides here ; he came out to meet the Governor- 
 General. I believe that this potentate also took 
 part against us in the late war. 
 
 February 1st Dubldn, 8 miles. A very pretty 
 road. A cold misty day ; thermometer at noon in 
 tent 53. Mohun Lol, who calls himself Esquire, 
 and who has been absurdly made so much of in 
 England, is here in a tent of his own ; but what 
 his business here is I know not ; they say that he 
 wants some political employment. He is a 
 heathen. I wish our Government would employ 
 more native Christians in their service ; the plea 
 against their employment is that State-patronage 
 might encourage hypocrisy ; but is evil to be done, 
 that good may come ? and is it not evil, to reject 
 a fellow-creature and refuse him the means of 
 (*) Worship. 
 
182 TOUK IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 livelihood simply because he is a fellow-Christian? 
 Is this the spirit of our holy religion ? Jesus said, 
 " Except a man forsake father and mother, 
 brethren and sisters, houses and lands, for my 
 sake, he cannot be my disciple;" but. did He 
 authorize the Church, did He authorize those who 
 were already converted to the Faith, ' did He 
 authorize a Christian Government, to increase the 
 hardship and to throw additional obstacles in the 
 way of the conversion of others? to discourage 
 and turn our backs upon our fellow-creatures, 
 who have already submitted to the sacrifice and 
 self-denial He requires as a test of sincerity, and 
 who have come into His fold with the hope and 
 reasonable expectation of finding sympathy, sup- 
 port, and comfort ? Hypocrites there may be and 
 martyrs there will be; but it is no business of 
 ours to anticipate and prejudge hypocrisy or to 
 make the martyr by persecution : better to judge 
 ourselves by the test prescribed for us, and to 
 make the sacrifices demanded from us in proof of 
 our own sinceritv. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 183 
 
 2nd. Puttidla, 9 miles. This is a large town, 
 almost as filthy as Lahore was before we cleaned 
 it. The Rajah came out to meet the Governor- 
 General. I understand that this Rajah has an 
 army of several thousand men and 20 guns. I 
 have heard it remarked of this town, that no 
 women are ever seen in it ; but my own observa- 
 tion does not confirm this remark: the streets, 
 that I went through, were graced with their share 
 of the fair sex, though uglier daughters of Eve I 
 never beheld. 
 
 3rd. Yesterday the ground was deluged with 
 rain ; to-day it is fine, but very cold. His Lord- 
 ship held a durbar for the Rajah. 
 
 4th. The same honour was done to-day to his 
 Lordship by the Rajah, whose palace is in the 
 middle of the town, a fine building, four stories 
 high, the front reminding me of the auberges in 
 Valetta. The durbar-room was not so hand- 
 some as that at Lahore; it was adorned with 
 European mirrors and chandeliers and hall-lamps, 
 some of plain, others of stained glass, with things 
 
184 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 called pictures, and with a crimson-velvet carpet. 
 During the durbar a group of rcacA( A )-girls 
 danced and sang, or rather screeched, in front of 
 us a diversion, to which we would rather not 
 have been doomed: the singing and music were 
 execrable, though all alike was meant, and there- 
 fore to be appreciated, as part of the hospitality 
 and honour. Another pastime was tying a horse 
 up in a blanket ; but this was nothing wonderful, 
 as his head was left out At dusk the palace-yard 
 was all in a blaze with fireworks and various 
 pyrotechnic manoeuvres. Among the nuzzurs was 
 a cloak lined with sable and also a bow of 
 steel, not of silver, though still recalling to mind 
 old Homer's description 
 
 Stivfi di icXayyr) 'yivtr apyvpeoio fiioio. 
 
 5th. Some pretty rides in this neighbourhood. 
 
 I went this evening to Bahadur gurh, a new fort 
 
 about 5 miles off, built by Kurrum Singh, father 
 
 of the present Rajah, and apparently constructed 
 
 (*) Dance. 
 
DDPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 185 
 
 as much for ornament and for a royal residence, as 
 for any other purpose. The Governor-General 
 went to see it, preceded by the Maharajah. I was 
 too late and arrived just as they were coming 
 away ; but the Maharajah most courteously 
 ordered that I might be shown over the palace. 
 It is worth seeing, because such a building of 
 recent date is a rare spectacle in India : the native 
 sovereigns do not build now, as they did in times 
 antecedent to the British rule. I understand that 
 in this fort there is one point of perfection, viz., 
 that the glacis is level with the top of the enclosed 
 building, so that no object within is visible to an 
 enemy without. An annual tribute in the form of 
 transit duties to the amount of Rs. 50,000 has been , 
 exacted from the Rajah by our Government, in 
 consideration of which he receives two guns, so 
 that his ordnance will consist of 22 pieces, and 
 also a handsome dressing-case, which belonged to 
 Napoleon, besides other valuable presents. I am 
 informed that the moral character of this Rajah 
 is better than that of native princes in general. 
 
186 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 6th. Kordlee, 12 miles. Very pretty road. 
 Weather now delightful. 
 
 1th. (Sunday.) Divine Service, as usual. I 
 have received a distressing letter from my native 
 Christian friend at Bishop's College. Oh that all 
 our converts had a spirit of indifference and 
 contempt for mere outward distinctions, and at 
 the same time that a better example were set them 
 in this respect by my countrymen, and also that 
 due consideration were had for their remaining 
 prejudices in accordance with the apostle's instruc- 
 tions for the treatment of weak consciences ! 
 
 8th. Rain fell all last night and obliges us to 
 halt another day. 
 
 $ih. Bhoona, 12 miles. Road nothing but mud. 
 
 Wth. Khytul, 14 miles. First half of the road 
 mud, the other half as good as any English turn- 
 pike-road. This is a large town with a fort, which 
 is a pretty object, containing a palace built by the 
 late Rajah some thirty years ago. The palace is 
 four stories high and commands an extensive 
 view ; in front are winged human figures in stone 
 
DEPAKTUEE FKOM LAHORE, ETC. 187 
 
 like those which we make to represent angels. 
 Outside the fort is another royal residence, but 
 smaller, built by the same Rajah about twelve 
 years ago ; on the ground-floor of which are two 
 very large handsome rooms, the most handsome I 
 ,have seen in India, the roof of one of them being 
 supported by four massive Corinthian pillars. On 
 the death of the late Rajah, Khytul reverted to 
 the British according to treaty ; but the Ranee 
 was rebellious and refused to surrender it ; where- 
 upon our Government sent a force to compel her 
 submission. This occurred in the time of Lord 
 Ellenborough. Monkeys abound here ; and here 
 also is a sacred tank for bathing, the water of 
 which is said by the natives to come from the 
 holy river Sasoota ; this river we crossed on our 
 road : it is the famous stream, which the native 
 fable reports to disappear somewhere in this 
 neighbourhood and after a subterranean course to 
 make its exit again at Allahabad. 
 
 llth. Futtehpore, 12 miles. Excellent road. 
 The country here is very inviting to sportsmen: 
 
188 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 it abounds with hares, partridges, teal, wild geese, 
 and, I am told, wild boars also. 
 
 12th. Neesing, 13 miles. Excellent road. 
 
 I3th.Kurndl 9 15 miles. The same as it was 
 last year in appearance, except that the bunglas 
 have gone through another stage of dilapidation. 
 A civilian is residing here, but no other European. 
 I went into the church again : what a melancholy 
 sight, so fine a church deserted by the Spirit of 
 God and the voice of His ministers, and only 
 awaiting the quick ravages of time to fall to ruin ! 
 The general impression is, that if proper drainage 
 and purification had been resorted to, this large 
 station need not have been condemned and deserted. 
 
 14th. (Sunday.) Divine Service, as usual. A 
 very wet day and very small congregation. 
 
 IGth. A beautiful drive, planted with trees on 
 each side, extends about two miles and a half 
 along the border of the canal; and it is now over- 
 grown with turf, which adds to its beauty. The 
 canal is called the Dehli canal and was constructed 
 by Feroze Shah or King Feroze. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 189 
 
 17 tli. Bedowlee, 12 miles. We crossed the 
 Jumna by a bridge of twenty boats. I have been 
 living for the last week on hares and partridges, 
 daily presents from my young sporting neighbours ; 
 but they are very insipid, compared with English 
 game. 
 
 18th. Shdmlee, 15 miles. Our encamping 
 ground to-day is in a grove of mango-trees. We 
 are close to the Dooab canal, a work of the 
 British Government. 
 
 19th. Korowah, 12 miles. 
 
 20th. Nowgawa Ghat, 12 miles. A small 
 stream here called Hindun. Weather much 
 warmer. 
 
 2lst. (Sunday.) Divine service. How pain- 
 ful to a minister to observe those near him sitting 
 cross-legged during the prayers ! Can a member 
 of the Church of England justify such a posture? 
 Can he conscientiously put himself by choice into 
 such a posture for the purpose of supplication to 
 the Almighty? Is it the attitude prescribed in 
 the Prayer-book? Some people affect to main- 
 
190 TOUH IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 tain that postures are nothing ; then why not have 
 couches in church to lounge upon ? but both 
 natural and revealed religion teach a different 
 doctrine; and Jesus Himself set a different ex- 
 ample, and so did the apostles. 
 
 22nd. Sirdhdna, 8 miles. The palace of 
 Begum Sumroo is here. She was queen of this 
 district, and built the palace with the assistance of 
 European architects. It is built in the European 
 fashion and furnished with English furniture ; the 
 walls of the rooms being hung with pictures of 
 British officers, very well executed by a native 
 artist of Meerut ; only two pictures in her house 
 came from England, one being a portrait of 
 herself, the other of Sir David Ochterlony, for 
 which latter she paid 1,OOOZ. In the portrait of 
 herself she is dressed as an English old lady. 
 She was married to General Sombre, and became 
 a member of the Church of Rome, though I do 
 not learn who baptized her. Her income was 
 about 12 lakhs of rupees. She lived a la mode 
 occidentale. One apartment is a large ball-room, 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 191 
 
 where she used to give splendid entertainments ; 
 in another is a billiard-table. All the rooms are 
 on the same floor, but it is raised high above the 
 ground and approached by a broad flight of steps 
 and a fine verandah. At the top of the building 
 is a terrace, reached by a winding staircase and 
 commanding an extensive view. Attached to the 
 house is a large garden, now in disorder, which in 
 her lifetime was dressed by eighty gardeners. 
 The spot was pointed out to us in her dining-room, 
 where just under her chair she had one of her 
 servant-girls, whose only crime was her beauty, 
 buried alive with her head above the floor; the 
 object of this method of interment being, that her 
 heart might be delighted as often and as long as 
 possible with the screams and groans of the 
 perishing victim of her jealousy.(') 
 
 Here also is a showy Roman Catholic Church, 
 which the Begum built in the year 1822, " sub 
 
 (*) The Bishop of Calcutta has a portrait of this monster 
 in his palace. Surely, if it must be there, it were better 
 for decency's sake to turn the face to the wall. 
 
192 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 nomine et protectione Marice beatce virginis? with 
 two spires at the east end, a dome in the centre 
 and two smaller domes at the west end. Three 
 priests always reside here. They keep a boys' 
 school, the number of boys being about forty, 
 officers' sons I am told, perhaps non-commissioned 
 officers, as the children are apparently half-castes. 
 They have no native converts here, except one of 
 the church-servants. Six servants take care of 
 the church, and the chuprass( k ) of each bears the 
 figure of a cross. The only congregation there- 
 fore are the school-boys and the native officer in 
 charge of the palace, Captain Swarry, a Roman 
 Catholic from Gwalior. The school-house and 
 the priests' house are all under one roof, and the 
 edifice is called St. John's College. 
 
 23rd Meerut y 10 miles. I spent the day with 
 Mr. Haddock, one of the chaplains of the station. 
 
 24/i. This evening at dinner at the Governor- 
 General's table I sat opposite a Colonel in the 
 Company's service, a notorious character, who was 
 (*) A brass plate worn on a belt. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 193 
 
 talking about the seepahees lately recovered from 
 Affghanistan, where they had been taken captives 
 or had settled themselves during the Affghan war ; 
 and he pronounced it as his opinion, that they 
 should be restored to their caste, which they had 
 lost, for that he believed caste to be the strong- 
 hold of British dominion in India, and therefore 
 deserving in every way to be encouraged and 
 maintained. 
 
 25 tli. I spent part of each day with Mr. 
 Haddock, whom I had the pleasure of knowing at 
 Canpoor. He and the senior chaplain, Mr. 
 Hammond, are labouring hard together for the 
 good of the people. The church has galleries, 
 and is one of the largest in the country. There is 
 no station in the Upper Provinces that I should 
 prefer to this. Bunglas, gardens, roads, are all 
 good, and there is abundance of riding ground. 
 Mr, Maddock has established a native school on 
 Christian principles, and the schoolmaster is 
 a German, who can speak a little English, and is 
 anxious to qualify himself for ordination ; but he 
 
 o 
 
194 TOZJR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 expects a missionary from England shortly, to be 
 sent out by the Church Missionary Society. 
 
 Two Roman Catholic priests live here, and 
 they have a chapel with a congregation of 500 or 
 600. They do nothing as missionaries among the 
 natives. 
 
 Sir F. Currie leaves us here, and goes to 
 Calcutta to take his seat in Council. Mr. Elliott,( z ) 
 late Secretary of the Revenue Department at 
 Agra, succeeds him; he is said to be a clever 
 man and an elegant scholar, which I am very glad 
 to hear. 
 
 26th. I have seen Matthew Prabhu Din, the 
 
 O Afterwards Sir Henry Elliott. Jle died at the Cape 
 of Good Hope, and has left behind him a reputation for 
 talent, scholarship, and industry, which places his name 
 among the brightest ornaments of the Civil Service of 
 India, even though the laborious work, in which he was 
 engaged, has been left incomplete, and his career as an 
 author and a servant of the State cut so short by an over- 
 ruling destiny a reputation, which I venture to say, will 
 not be acquired by many of those, whom the Universities of 
 Oxford and Cambridge, and the new system of examination, 
 will now prepare for the Honourable East India Company. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 195 
 
 old Nayek, baptized by Mr. Fisher, the chaplain, 
 in the year 1819. He says that Mr. Fisher did 
 not understand the native language, and conversed 
 with him through a Mohummedan coachman, who 
 knew something of English. He also says that 
 he was a Roman Catholic before, and was there- 
 fore not a convert from Hindooism ; that he only 
 conversed ten days with Mr. Fisher, and had not 
 read much of the New Testament, and scarcely 
 any of the Old, before his baptism ; since which 
 time, however, he has studied the Scriptures. 
 
 What necessity exists for giving our English 
 names, themselves Anglicised from Greek or 
 Latin, to natives of Hindoostan at their baptism ? 
 Some native converts, <T believe, wish to adopt 
 them, but not all ; and why should the Hindoo 
 nomenclature not suit as well as the Hindoo 
 costume ? It is objected to the retention of some 
 of the Hindoo names, that they are the names 
 of heathen deities, or derived from them ; but 
 this was not deemed in Apostolic days a hindrance 
 to the retention of such names. Hermes, Dio- 
 
196 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 nysius, Apollos, Hymeneus, -Epaphroditus, Nereus, 
 did not drop their names on conversion to the 
 Christian faith. 
 
 27th. Dowralla, 8 miles. Very warm all 
 day. . 
 
 28th.- (Sunday). Divine Service, as usual. 
 
 March 1st. Kuttowlee, 12 miles. Fine crops. 
 I am grieved at hearing, that it has been the 
 custom of the Governors-General of India during 
 their tours to give presents, consisting of large 
 sums of Government money, to heathen temples 
 and shrines, or to the priests in charge of them ; 
 but I hope the report may not be true. 
 
 2nd. Mozuffernuggur, 12 miles. Yesterday 
 and to-day the abominable Hindoo festival, called 
 Holee, (what an incongruous name it sounds to 
 an English ear!) has been celebrated; during 
 which it is the privilege of Hindoos of both sexes 
 to give utterance to all possible licentious language 
 and obscene abuse of each other. " Out of the 
 abundance of the heart the mouth speaketh," was 
 said by One, who knew what was in man, and 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 197 
 
 never boasted of the uprightness and purity of 
 unregenerate human nature. 
 
 3rd. Kdzeekepoor, 15 J miles. We halt here 
 two days for tiger-shooting the tiger-jungul 
 beginning here. A party of six went out, but 
 found the ground of the jungul so swampy, that 
 they were obliged to return. They saw the 
 carcase of an ox half-devoured, but no tiger. 
 Two wild boars were their only victims. One* 
 poor elephant sunk nearly up to the howdah in 
 a bog ; I believe it was extricated. 
 
 The new canal, called the Great Ganges Canal, 
 will pass by this place. The work was begun by 
 Lord Auckland, and stopped by Lord Ellen- 
 borough. The object for* which it is designed is 
 the irrigation of the country, and thereby an 
 increase in the produce of the soil. The expecta- 
 tion is, that, when completed, it will pay Govern- 
 ment 15 per cent. It is to be completed in 10 years. 
 Twenty lakhs of rupees was the cost of it originally 
 estimated, but the actual cost will far exceed that 
 sum. The width is 140 feet, the depth 18 feet. 
 
198 TOUK IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 It will not be lined with masonry. Some people 
 think it will not answer the purpose for which it 
 is intended : time will show ; but there are always 
 adverse opinions about the utility of every enter- 
 prise. In point of magnitude this and the forth- 
 coming (though, I fear, not paulo post future) 
 railroad, or railroads, will, probably, be our chief 
 public works in India, that our present generation 
 will live to see. 
 
 On inquiring how it is that the natives will not 
 discontinue that disgusting habit of eructation, 
 which they are perpetually practising, not only in 
 each other's faces, but in the presence of Sahibs, I 
 was amazed to learn, that they consider it a mark 
 of politeness, and that among natives of all classes 
 no greater compliment can be paid by a guest at 
 his host's table, than to emit that abominable 
 sound from the mouth in as deep and audible a 
 tone as possible after the meal, in token that he 
 has enjoyed a good and savoury dinner. 
 
 5th. Landowrahy 12 miles. About 4 miles 
 distant is the village of Roorkee or Loorkee, where 
 
DEPASTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 199 
 
 a gigantic aqueduct for the Ganges Canal is being 
 constructed across the bed of a torrent; it will be 
 about half a mile long and 70 feet wide, and the 
 foundation is 30 feet deep ; it has been in progress 
 one year, and will be finished in two years more. 
 
 The country we have been lately passing 
 through is thickly studded with sutteewdrs^) 
 black with the smoke of many a human sacrifice. 
 I trust they are now disused ; though one of those 
 I saw to-day appeared quite new, as if recently 
 built for use. The sutteewdr is a small square or 
 oblong structure of stone or brick, with 4 pillars 
 at the corners, and a dome at the top, and either 
 open at each side, or only at one side in which 
 latter case it resembles an oven; the length and 
 height are about 5 feet, and the breadth 3 or 5. 
 The wretched woman is laid inside on the pile of 
 wood, over the body of her husband, to be burnt, 
 and must soon be suffocated by the smoke. 
 Surely this infernal rite will come to an end, 
 
 ( m ) Suttee is the widow who is burnt, and sutteewdr the 
 tomb, or altar, where the burning takes place. 
 
200 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 though it was once gravely predicted that we 
 could not abolish it without abolishing at the same 
 time the British dominion in India. 
 
 Retrenchment seems to be the order of the day. 
 The Governor-General is reducing the Native 
 Army by 35,000 men, whereby an annual saving of 
 32 or 33 lakhs of rupees will be effected. A good 
 stroke of policy this, if it can be made with safety. 
 The effect of our late victories on the native mind 
 is undoubtedly very great, and now perhaps is the 
 best time to run the risk of the experiment, if that 
 moral effect can be depended upon until the object 
 of such retrenchment is gained. Some risk must 
 be run, it appears, sooner or later, for our expen- 
 diture exceeds our revenue, and has done so, I 
 believe, ever since the Affghan campaign, which 
 was the most unfortunate crisis that ever occurred 
 in the history of our Indian Empire. Before that 
 time, I understand, the revenue used to exceed the 
 expenditure by a crore and a half of rupees a year. 
 It is to be hoped that too sanguine a reliance is not 
 placed by our Government on the friendly pro- 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 201 
 
 fessions of native states, whose friendship with us 
 they only feel to be their own interest, so long as 
 they cannot succeed as our enemies. 
 
 6th. Bhdrapoor Chowree, 7 miles. This being 
 a low unhealthy spot, and the Surgeon's opinion 
 being that the sooner we are off the ground the 
 better, we shall deviate from our practice of 
 halting on Sundays, and march to 
 
 1th. Hurdwdr, 13 miles. (Sunday). Divine 
 service, but exceedingly small congregation ; 
 scarcely even an officer of the Body Guard, or of 
 the Regiment in escort, was present: they are 
 riding about and shooting instead. The neigh- 
 bourhood abounds with tigers, and, as we have 
 heard of one being very near us, I am going 
 to-morrow in company with a party, who intend 
 to search for him an elephant having been kindly 
 offered me. The Governor-General left the Camp 
 yesterday, attended by his two sons, Col. Wood, 
 Mr. Elliott, and Mr. Harvey, a civilian of 
 Saharunpoor, and a distinguished assailant of 
 tigers, and took with them a light camp for a few 
 
202 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 days' sport in the jungul. To-day the skin of a 
 very fine tiger was brought in, which they killed, 
 after being charged by him several times. 
 
 This is a most beautiful spot at the foot of the 
 Sewalic range of the Himalayas. We are about a 
 mile from the Ganges, which is here as clear as 
 crystal, and from the famous bathing -place. 
 Krishna is said to have bathed here, and it is 
 the only place of principal importance and peculiar 
 sacredness for Hindoo bathing. Every year, at a 
 certain age of the moon after the vernal equinox, 
 the sacred spot is visited by a concourse of between 
 K)0,000 and 200,000 pilgrims. I understand 
 that the mla(f) lasts from the 1st new moon to 
 the 1st full moon after the vernal equinox. .This 
 regulation reminds us of the Easter of our Church. 
 Every 6th year the concourse is larger than usual, 
 and the season is called Mwta(f) koombh, from 
 the Sanskrit word koombh, which means the 
 
 (f) Fair, or concourse of people, for religious or commer- 
 cial purposes. 
 () Little. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 203 
 
 zodiacal sign aquarius. Every 12th year there is 
 a special concourse, and the season is called 
 burra( p ) koombh, when about one million people 
 attend; on which occasion sometimes, from the 
 simultaneous eagerness and thronging of so vast a 
 crowd, many are drowned. This year is the 
 burra koombh. The name of the town where the 
 Brahmans reside, and which is close by, is Kunkul. 
 Oh, that these poor deluded creatures could 
 celebrate the Easter of our Church, being purified 
 m that genuine " fountain, which has been opened 
 for sin and uncleanness I" and what would I not 
 give to see the same enthusiasm and ardour, with 
 which they devote themselves to Krishna and 
 thirst for the sacred Gunga,( g ) felt and exhibited 
 by the professing Christians of my own country, 
 in following and serving Christ, our Passover! 
 Missionaries sometimes attend these mdlas, for the 
 purpose of addressing the people ; how far expe- 
 dient, or how successful this may be, I know not ; 
 but if they could perform miracles, what an effect 
 00 Great. () Ganges. 
 
204 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 might be expected from their preaching on such 
 occasions ! How many thousand conversions in 
 one day ! Archbishop Tillotson - thought that 
 another effusion of miraculous gifts must be 
 vouchsafed to the Church, before the remainder 
 of the world could be converted to the Christian 
 Faith ; but prayer is not offered for such gifts, 
 
 and progress, though slow, is being made without 
 
 a, fa) 
 them. 
 
 Mohun Lol is still following our Camp, though 
 I do not ascertain for what purpose. He has 
 lately returned from England with a pension of 
 1,OOOZ. a year, which he has obtained from the 
 Court of Directors in consideration, I understand, 
 of his surrendering to them important documents 
 connected with affairs in Affghanistan and the 
 transactions of Sir W. MacNaghten, to whom he 
 was Persian interpreter, or some attach^ of the 
 kind, and, I suppose, in consideration of some 
 other services. 
 
 9th. Yesterday we went out on our tiger- 
 shooting expedition : our party consisting of 11 
 
DEPASTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 205 
 
 too many for such an occasion. A poor villager 
 had brought us word that a tiger had killed one 
 of his bullocks, and that the spot was close at 
 hand. The same man accompanied us to-day to 
 show us the place. It was in the jungul, a thick 
 tree-jungul, about three miles from the Camp, and 
 there we found the remains of the carcase of the 
 bullock, and his own strong odour assured us of 
 the proximity of the tiger, or else of his recent 
 departure from the spot. The thickness of the 
 jungul made our beating it a work of great 
 difficulty; and we were beginning to despair, 
 when I heard the report of four shots fired. On 
 coming up I found that accounts differed some 
 affirmed that one, others that two, tigers had been 
 seen and fired at in the long grass, and had dis- 
 appeared. Presently afterwards the beast, or a 
 beast, was found again, and fired at two or three 
 times, but disappeared. No tiger did I see from 
 beginning to end; but some declared that their 
 eyes had been so far satisfied. However, after 
 beating the jungul twice over, we came away, and 
 
206 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 oiir expedition terminated without any prey and 
 with much disappointment. A smaller party and 
 more experience might have secured us better 
 success: but only one of our gallant company 
 understood the sport. We saw several skeletons, 
 and two were of human beings; also, the more 
 pleasant sight of living deer splendid creatures, 
 both spotted and hog-deer, nil-gais, and peafowl ; 
 and wild boars, porcupines, and monkeys varied 
 the scene of sylvan life. The trees, the creepers, 
 the shrubs, and all the foliage were magnificent ; 
 and none can form an exact conception of the 
 spectacle, but they who have enjoyed the pleasure 
 of penetrating the interior of an Indian jungul. 
 
 They say that wild elephants abound in this 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 Here is the commencement of the Great Ganges 
 Canal, and its length, I believe, will be about 300 
 miles. 
 
 To-day I went into the temple, where I beheld 
 the most hideous idols imaginable. One was a 
 huge cow, two were elephants, another was a 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 207 
 
 black grinning monster -.with a human head, 
 another blood-coloured, and there were two or 
 three other frightful objects besides. What with 
 the terrific spectacle of such gods of the heathen, 
 and the thought of their being adored by millions 
 of my fellow creatures; and the deafening noise 
 of two large bells, or gongs, chiming, and a big 
 drum sounding all the while, I never felt myself 
 in a place so infernal ; I shuddered with horror. 
 
 Mango-trees are very numerous here ; they are 
 just coming out into blossom, and the blossoms 
 perfume the air delightfully ; while the cuculus 
 Indicus warbles among the trees in the evening, 
 like the thrush or blackbird. 
 
 \\th. The Governor-General returned to-day, 
 much pleased with his successful sport. They 
 killed two tigers, one of them having charged his 
 Lordship's elephant twice, and also a bear. 
 Bears, I understand, are not often found in the 
 plains. 
 
 I2th. The Governor-General has gone with a 
 light camp to Dehra-dhoon. Thence his Lord- 
 
208 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 ship Intends to proceed to Mussooree, and so to 
 Simla, We, who remain with the heavy camp, 
 shall march to Umballa, and thence proceed to 
 Simla. It is very warm now in the day-time. 
 Our march to-day has been 13 miles, to Dow- 
 lutpoor. 
 
 13th. Secundrapoor, 13 miles. A villager 
 having reported that a tiger was about two miles 
 from the camp, ten of us went out on elephants, 
 beat the jungul, which consisted only of bushes 
 and brambles, through and through, but returned 
 with downcast looks, and the conviction that the 
 intelligence must have been a false alarm, though 
 the villagers persisted in declaring that they had 
 heard the beast roaring in that very place last 
 night and this morning. 
 
 The feats of elephants are wonderful ; they will 
 go over anything, and up and down most awkward 
 declivities at an angle of 45, and through the 
 thickest jungul of thorns, feeling their way, when 
 suspicious, and breaking down every obstacle. 
 One of ours, to-day, having trod upon a large 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 209 
 
 thorn, stopped, and tried to extricate it with his 
 trunk ; but he could not succeed, and* the Mahout 
 was obliged to extract it for him, while the poor 
 creature roared with pain. 
 
 It appears that, notwithstanding all the measures 
 of retrenchment which our Government are 
 adopting, the expenditure of India exceeds the 
 revenue by 21 lakhs, besides the amount of the 
 5 per cent, interest for the money they are bor- 
 rowing. See, for explanation of this, the Delhi 
 Gazette of 10th March, 1847. 
 
 Every day since we left Hurdwar we have met 
 on the road numbers of pilgrims, men, women and 
 children, proceeding thither. 
 
 14th. Sahdrunpoor, 13 miles. (Sunday). 
 Divine Service, as usual; but only one person 
 belonging to the Station attended, though all 
 must have known of the Service. It is a small 
 Civil Station, of which Mr. Harvey, the great 
 tiger hunter, is Judge ; and being an ecclesiastical 
 out-station of Meerut, it is visited twice a year by 
 the chaplains of that station. But, though the 
 
 P 
 
210 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 residents of these minor stations are always ready 
 to complain of their want of the public means of 
 grace, yet when a rare opportunity like the present 
 occurs, and these means are available, what a 
 proof do they give of their sincerity ! There has 
 been no necessity for our marching to-day ; and, 
 understanding that arrangements have been made 
 for our marching into Umballa next Sunday, I 
 remonstrated, and expressed a hope to Colonel 
 Stuart that it might not be so, unless some absolute 
 necessity existed; in consequence of this, though 
 it gave offence, I am glad to hear that the arrange- 
 ment has been altered. 
 
 1 5th. There is a botanical garden here, sup- 
 ported by Government, and Dr. Jamieson is the 
 superintendent of it. The garden is beautifully 
 laid out, and full of rare trees and plants. It is 
 useful as well as ornamental, for it produces 
 various vegetables, and supplies other places with 
 seeds of flowers and plants. What an advantage 
 it were to large stations, if such gardens could be 
 attached to them ! But the expense would be too 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 211 
 
 great: in this one garden, 80 mdlees( r ) are 
 employed. I saw, in a flower-pot, a small tea- 
 plant, a specimen from Dehra-dhoon. The tea 
 plantation there, I believe, is likely to answer. 
 The Governor-General has gone to see it, and 
 Dr. Jamieson meets him there. A mahogany- 
 tree is another of the rarities here. I do 
 not know whether the garden is to be called 
 zoological as well as botanical; but part of it is 
 occupied by a small menagerie, with six or seven 
 tenants. 
 
 16th. ChUkdna, 10 miles. 
 
 nth. Booriah, 10 miles. We crossed the 
 Jumna on our way by a bridge of boats. This 
 place is disfigured by a cluster of old sutteewdrs. 
 A Ranee resides here ; and a pretty piece of 
 ground, skirted by the river Jumna, reminds one 
 of an English park. The trees of the park are all 
 mangoes, and our encampment is in a mango- 
 grove. 
 
 18th. Mustaphebddy 13 J miles. 
 
 (*") Gardeners. 
 
212 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 19th. Freefulla, 14 miles. Weather very warm 
 now. 
 
 20th. Umballa, 8 miles. Looks just as it did 
 last year, a straggling dreary station ; roads 
 unformed ; the only addition, some artillery bar- 
 racks ; the same building still used as a church 
 a place like a barn and no better edifice in 
 progress. 
 
 I am glad to meet here an old acquaintance, 
 who has obtained a respectable situation, after 
 much affliction and difficulty, having resigned the 
 Oudh service (military) in disgust, the moral 
 wretchedness of which service and the abomina- 
 tions of Lucknow I remember his relating to me at 
 Canpoor : I rejoice in his comparative comfort 
 and prosperity, though certainly Rs. 200 a 
 month is but very little for a large family; 
 but I rejoice more in his humble and modest 
 piety. 
 
 2lst. (Sunday.} Divine Service in tent as 
 usual*. Congregation very thin, partly in con- 
 sequence of the reduction of our Camp ; but two 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 213 
 
 of the members of the Camp never attend, and 
 only one of the Aide-de-Camps is a regular 
 attendant. I hear that no Service is held to-day 
 in the Station-Church, one of the Chaplains being 
 ill and the other having gone with his family to 
 Simla. I was not requested by the resident 
 Chaplain to officiate for him ; and only one 
 family belonging to the station and one non- 
 commissioned officer came to join in our Service 
 here. 
 
 I am glad to find that a Chaplain has at 
 last been appointed to Lahore. The Roman 
 Catholic Priest there has set us an example of 
 zeal and expedition, and is already building a 
 chapel. 
 
 Atmosphere extremely close all day. 
 
 22nd. Dubdn, 13 miles. Air this morning 
 quite suffocating. 
 
 23rd. Munnamdjra, 13 miles. Air this morn- 
 ing delightfully cooled by a breeze from the hills. 
 We hear that snow is still lying about Simla, 
 three or four feet deep in some places, and that this 
 
214 TOUR IN THE PUNJAB, ETC. 
 
 year the fall has been heavy. Part of the country 
 we have passed through to-day has a Bengalee 
 appearance, being covered with rice-fields and 
 palm-trees. But again the proximity and view of 
 the hills dismiss all thoughts of Bengal. This 
 place is in the territory of the Rajah of Putteeala, 
 who is holding a great mela here to-day. 
 
 Thermometer at 2 P.M. 94. 
 
 24th. Kalka, 11 miles. Very hot : difficult to 
 say whether roasting, boiling, stewing, or baking, 
 be the most appropriate term to express the 
 process we are undergoing. However, our taber- 
 nacle-life for the present has now come to an end ; 
 and, interesting and healthful as our tour has 
 been, still the houses and snow and rhododen- 
 drons of Simla will be a pleasant and refreshing 
 change. 
 
 And such is the mortal life of Christians of 
 those, I mean, who are truly Christians. Their 
 bodies are tabernacles ; ( 5 ) their days are move- 
 ment and change ; they are strangers and pilgrims 
 (*) 2 Cor. v. 1, 4. 1 Pet.i. 13, 14. 
 
DEPARTURE FROM LAHORE, ETC. 215 
 
 on the earth ; here they have no continuing city, 
 no certain resting-place ; and they desire a better 
 country, that is, a heavenly, and look for the 
 dissolution of these tabernacles (*) and for a city 
 that hath foundations. 
 
 (0 2 Cor. v. 1, 4. 1 Pet. i. 13, 14. 
 
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