UC-NRLF DESCRIBING EVERY THING WORTHY OF INTEREST CONNECTED WITH THE Public Buildings, the Rooms, Crescents, Theatre, Concerts, Baths, its Literature, fyc. INCLUDING WALCOT AND WIDCOMBE, AND THE rurvoun&tug ; With Sketches of PRIOR-PARK-HOUSE, THE ROCKS OF WICK, CORSHAM-HOUSE, AND ITS FINE COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS: ALSO AN EXCURSION TO CLIFTON AND BRISTOL HOT-WELLS, IVitk a Visit to Lord de Clifford'* House, and some Remarkt upon its Pictures : The whole forming & complete lutire TO THE VISITORS OF THE ABOVE CITY. BY p. EGAN PRINTED FOR MEYLER AND SON, at the Bath Herald Office; BARRY AND SON, BRISTOL; J.VINCENT, OXFORD; AND fcHT.RWOOD, NEET.Y, AND JONES, LONDON. 1819. %m PREFACE. BATH has been so long known, so much fre- quented, and so often written upon by various authors, both in the serious* and comic t style of description, that it might be presumed little mat- ter is now left to furnish any thing like contents for a NRW VOLUME, without monotonously treading over and over again the same hack- neyed, beaten ground : and however industriously the literary sportsman may beat up the field, he is not likely to put up any fresh birds, much more bring them down : SCRIBBLKJU are i/wtimcM ; and, a iportimcn arc, Some hit, some ruiai, sumo poach, andionie boat fair} This wound* a itraggling bird ; that often triei But never kill*; ho ibooti and huti both eyci. Some will whole covlei talte, nineteen in twenty j And then yon imack your lipi for game li plenty ; In ihort, by you their mcriti must be tried, And wo to them who nrc not qualified I Whatever has been written relative to the ANTIQUITIES of BATH, (whether fabulous or real,) it must be admitted the subject has been fully explored; its fine OLD ABBKY por- trayed ; the beauty and elegance of its CBES- * WAHHIR. f AMTIY, 899152 y PREFACE. CENTS not omitted ; its AMUSEMENTS blazoned forth ; its CHARITIES not forgotten ; its COM- FORTS recognized; its extreme CLEANLINESS developed ; the virtues of its BATHS promul- gated ; and the efficacy of its WATERS en- larged upon, in all the various " Old" and " New Guides" still extant : the thing is not meant to be denied; nor is it the intention of the Author to assert, that any of the above fixed pictures are not faithful PORTRAITS. But notwithstand- ing this disparagement and great drawback to surmount- True hope ne'er tires, but mounts with eagle's wings, and anew moving PICTURE OF BATH is at length produced. How far the artist has hit oft" an accurate and animated likeness with what fide- lity he has preserved the features whether the light and shade have been properly introduced the tints glowing and the colouring so well diffused as to harmonize the whole, must be left to the decision of his judges. The attempt is nouvelle; and, he trusts, the "WALKS THROUGH BATH" will not only prove interesting and use- ful, but that it will ultimately give pleasure to all his readers. Although the visitor may " read as he runs" in his perambulations through the streets of Bath, yet nothing of importance has been omit- ted ; and the numerous engravings, executed PREFACE. V by an eminent artist,* will most accurately point out to him, that every building of note is presented to his view. It will also possess this advantage, that it will save the unpleasant trouble of asking questions. To the admirers of the FINE ARTS, a cata- logue of the numerous Pictures; a sketch of the interior of the Mansion ; a review of the Plea- sure-Grounds, and every subject connected with CORSHAM-HOUSE, so highly interesting to all its visitors, is minutely introduced. The lovers of LITERATURE will also peruse some short accounts of those persons, natives of Bath, whose genius and talents have tended to increase the importance of this attractive City. And to add to the interest, if not the comple- tion, of the " WALKS THROUGH BATH," a de- scriptive Itinerary has been attempted from Hyde-Park Corner, London, to the " EN- TRANCE" of the above elegant City, in which no gentleman's seat, no anecdote illustrative of the various towns, or other prominent features tend- ing to occupy the mind of the traveller, have been omitted. The various objects upon the road from Bath to Bristol have also been described with equal minuteness and attention. A WALK to the Rocks of St. Vincent, Bristol Hot-Wells * J. STOEBR. VI PBBFACE. and Clifton, and the Park of Lord de Clifford, with some remarks on his fine Collection of Paint- ings has also been introduced, in order to save the time of the traveller, if necessary, who may feel disposed to extend his journey by viewing the above delightful subjects, so intimately con- nected with a visit to BATH. The Author has only to regret, that descrip- tion, however highly-coloured, must fall short towards communicating with effect, the unparal- leled and delightful scenery with which this most elegant City abounds. APRIL 2, 1819. CONTENTS. PREFACE ., . *. .% iii List of Plates .. x Coaches from London to Bath , .. xi Descriptive Itinerary of all the Towns and Gen- tlemen's Seats, from Hyde-Park-Corner to Bath 1 Entrance to Bath 30 Epitome of Ancient and Modern Bath, a Prelude to the Walks 36 WALK I. From the York Hotel to the Abbey, Great Pump-Room, the King's, Queen's, and New Private Baths, Literary Society, &c. 6T WALK II. From the South Wing of Sydney-Place to the New Church, Bathwick, South and North Parades, Old Rooms, Freemasons' Hall, Bath Antiquities, &c 98 Vlll CONTENTS. WALK III. From Portland-Place to the New Rooms, Circus, &c 125 WALK IV. From Milsom-Street to the Theatre, Parson- age-House, Market-House. Guildhall, Bath Penitentiary, Walcot Parade, the Ferry, &c. 140 WALK V. From Upper Camden-Place,Lan<:down-Road, All Saints' Chapel, the Royal Crescent, &tc.' 159 WALK VI. The Promenade to the Village of Weston, House of Protection, Waterfall, &c 164 WALK VII. An Aquatic Stroll. From the Old Bridge, alongside of the Avon, to the Gasometer ; return by the Upper Bristol Road, &c. . . 170 WALK VIII. From High-Street to Sydney Hotel and Gardens ; and the Queen's House 179 WALK IX. From Great Pulteney-Street to the Bride- well, Prior-Park and House, Allen's-Walk, Prospect - Place, and Stone Quarry at Combe-Down. To the Brass Knocker; the Aqueduct, &c 188 WALK X. From the Circus to the Race-Ground and Stand. Lansdown Fair and Monument. Prospect Style. The Rocks at \Yick, &c. 210 CONTENTS. IX Page WALK (or Ride) XI. From Grosvenor-Place to Bath Easton, Box, and Pickwick. The FINE ARTS. A Visit to Corsham-House ; its fine Collection of Paintings ; Park, &c 219 WALK (or Excursion) XII. From the Old Bridge through Twiverton, Salt- ford, Keynsham, and Brislington. A Visit to Clifton and Bristol Hot Wells. De- scriptive Itinerary of the Road to Bristol. Walk to St. Vincent's Rocks, through Clifton, &c 237 WALK (or Excursion) XIII. A Sail down the Avon to the Harbour of Pill. Walk to Pen Pole, Shirehampton, Sec. A Visit to Lord de Clifford's House, Park, Collection of Paintings, &c 253 Literary Characters, Natives, or Persons inti- mately connected with Bath 262 List of Coaches from Bath to London, &c 276 Caravans on the Roads contiguous to Bath .... 278 Waggons, &c 280 Water-Carriage 281 Itinerary of the various Roads from Bath 282 Fairs 283 Index ... . 285 LIST OF PLATES. YorkHotel .,, 34 The General Hospital ... ,,...% Tl ThePumpRoom ...,> 83 The Royal Baths ..,,...,,..,,,,...,.. , , 86 The Cross Bath Pomp Room 89 TheHotBath ., , 90 The Old Bridge 93 St. James's Church 94 Bathwick Old Church 100 Pulteney Bridge 101 View of the Ahhey Church* from the Banks of the Avon lb, The Lower Rooms ................. 1 Of Freemasons* Hall 116 Part of the Royal Circus ....................... 196 Upper Rooms .,,..,....,..,.....,..,......... 197 The Theatre, 141 Blue Coat School 144 The Rector's House 147 Sjduej Hotel..,.. ISO The Queen's House .,....,.. ,v ....... 286 Prior Park * , 11 COACHES FROM LONDON TO BATH. BATH COACHES which set paat h In the morning. CASTLE AND FALCON, ALDERSGATB-STRRET Bath and Bristol, through Marlborough, Calne, and Chippenham, dally, quarter before 9 afternoon. CROSS KEYS, WOOD-STREET, CHEAPSIDE.-- Bath and Bristol, (Th Regulator,) dally, half-pt 4 afternoon. GEORGE AND BLUE BOAR, HOLUOKN, Bath and Bristol, Post Coach, through Maidenhead, Reading, Newbury, Hungtrtofd, Marlborough, Calne, and Chippenham, dally, 1 afternoon. GERARD'S HALL, BASINO-LANE, BROAD-STREET, BLACK BEAR, AND WHITE HUKSI. ( i.i.LARS, PICCADILLY,... Bath, through Hungerfnrd, Marlboroufh, Devliea, and Melk- sham, daily, 1 afternoon. Ditto, through Calne and Chlppcnham, dally, \ afternoon, (Sunday at i.) GOLDEN CROSS, CHARING.CR08....Bath and Bristol, through Devises and Melksham to Beckhampton Inn, daily, 6 in the morning. (Sunday excepted.) Bath and Bristol, New Post Coach, by Deviies, every afternoon, at 5 o'clock. xil COACHES FROM LONDON TO BATH. KING'S ARMS, SNOW-HILL. Bath and Bristol, (The Independent,} through Marlborough, Devizes, and Melksham, daily, 5 in the morning. SARACEN'S HEAD, SNOW-HILL. Bath and Bristol, through Newbury, Hungerford, Marlborough, and Chippenham, daily, 1 afternoon. SWAN WITH TWO NECKS, LAD-LANE Bath, Royal Mail, through Marlborough and Devizes, daily, half-past 7 in the afternoon. Bath and Bristol, (Royal Volunteer,} through Marlborough, Calne, and Chippen- ham, daily, quarter before 4 afternoon. TEMPLE COFFEE HOUSE, TAVERN, AND FAMILY HOTEL, STRAND, NEAR TEMPLE-BAR. Bath and Bristol, daily, 1 and 5 afternoon. WHITE BEAR, PICCADILLY. Bath and Bristol, Post Coach, daily, half-past 1 afternoon. DESCRIPTIVE ril ruoM LONDON TO BATH. FASHION in ev'ry thing bears sov'reign sway, And Bath for " Life !" the gayest of the gay ! WHEN the attractions of MARGATE, as a watering- place, have lost their charms, and become little more than a mere desert, its finely ornamented " steam- boats"* laid up, as it were, in ordinary, and its " com- pany " got safely back to the metropolis, once more bu- sily engaged behind their counters, of which, that fa- cetious and satiric bard,f when in the zenith of his powers, thus described : Chang'd by their travels mounted high in soul Here Suds forgets whate'er remembrance shocks, And Mistress Suds forgetteth too the pole, Wigs, bob and pig-tail, basins, razors, blocks ! * The rapidity and regularity of this new conveyance has been much admired, and provided the doubtful part of the passage could be got over in the minds of a few sceptics who place some value upon their carcasses, namely, if the cargo is not altogether missing some day from the blowing up of the vessel, " leaving not a wreck behind," the old hoys must soon be exploded. t PETER PINDAR. This once facetious disciple of the Muses, it seems, has long since been poetically dead to the world ; and his tille has been usurped by a variety of persons, without possessing even a mediocrity of talent, compared with this great original. Dr. WAICOT is, however, alive at the present moment (Jan. 1819); and/jndependent of u DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY Mistrc&s Pap, from pewter pots withdrawn, Walks forth in all the pride of paunch and geer, Mou/its I'cr swoln heels 'jn Dandelion's lawn, And at the bail-room heaves her heavy rear. Here Crispin too forgets his end and awl, Here Mistress Cleaver, with important looks, Forgets the beef and mutton on her stall, And lights and liver dangling from the hooks ! Here too the most important Dicky Dab, With puppy pertness, pretty, pleasant PRIG, Forgets the narrow fishy house of Crab, And drives in Jehu-style his whirling gig ! When CHELTENHAM, also, has yielded up its fashion- able valetudinarian visitants; and BRIGHTON, from the rudely southern breezes driven the elegant and almost transparent fair ones off its dashing Steynes, and left principally to the care of its natives and rough uncultivated fishermen, notwithstanding roy- alty's palace,* " out-heroding " all the talismanic touches of the genii of the " Arabian Nights," it is being deprived of the advantages of vision, may be said to enjoy a fine green old age, full of spirits, still passionately fond of poesy, as eager as ever to enjoy the ban mot and re- partee, strongly attached to literary men and literary com- pany ; not dull in himself when alone, and with the assist- ance of his attendant HEBE, who, from his dictation, pens down his verses, (which, according to report, are equal to any of his former productions, but which are said to be pre- served for his posthumous works,) and, with his glass of rum before him, from which he frequently sips, and well cased in flannel, he seems almost to laugh at the grim king of terrors. * When this palace is completed, (in which the hammer has scarcely had a day's rest for the last twenty years,) it may bid defiance to the whole universe to produce any thing like an equal ! It seems as though Time did not like his work : As though he wanted something better still Than e'er was manufactur'd at his mill. FROM LONDON TO BATH. 3 then that the season for visiting the splendid and clas- sic BATH hecomes the universal place of resort, and the beau monde all upon the alert to reach its fashion- able destination. Whether the foot-step of the gay " set out" of the barouche offers its ascent to the eager traveller, " With spirits gay we mount the box, the tits up to the traces," or, the more accommodating ladder to mount the roof of the Regent* to the coaches " all right ya-hip!" and the sounding of the bugle by the guard to quit the bustle of the White Horse Cellar, the journey to most minds commences with pleasure and delight: and, al- though he may not possess the talents of a STERNE to reali/e another " Sentimental Journey," he will, never- theless, find the road far from " barren ;" but, on the contrary, furnish him with abundant interesting objects for his attention and observation, more especially, if the passengers are truly English, (i. e, of that sort of quality which is so humourously depicted by MATHEWS in his " Mail Coach Adventures") the traveller may possess the advantages of thinking; indeed, for in- stance, some hours often elapse before a single word can be thaioed from your close-squeezed cold neigh- bour ; and if you can provoke any conversation beyond the laconic " yes," or " no !" you are likely to be silenced after the mode of the following surly remark, to prevent any future attacks: " Sir, I am remark- ably well ; I was very well when I left town, I am very well now, and if I should happen to be taken ill, sir, I'll let you know." Yet, perhaps, it is much more pleasant to endure even this reserve, than to be an- noyed with the purse-proud importance of one of " Fortune's fools," who can talk of nothing else but the collection of his rents, and flatters himself he has a right to be listened to because he is a man of pro- * The name of a coach. B 2 4 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY perty ; or, in being bored to death by some uninformed cockney, who never lost sight of Bow-Church before, and whose intellectual sagacity scarcely points out to him the difference between grass and corn, and the sum total of his repeated inquiries amount to, " What house is that there" and " what is growing in this here field." But the journey is began ; the coach is in full speed; and the "good bye" scarcely over, when the traveller is off the stones, gone through KNIGHTS- BRIDGE, and, before he has hardly time for a single reflection, arrived at KENSINGTON-GORE, (one mile.) On the right stands the Palace, but now more famed for its delightful gardens and attractive walks for visitors on Sundays. Just through Kensington, also on the right, appears the antique mansion of the late Lord Holland, and father of that enlightened and illustrious senator, Charles James Fox. This venerable seat also lajs claim to attention from the impressive death of that great, good man, and classic scholar, ADDISON, who departed this life in it. It was here where the above truly pious individual requested a young nobleman to behold " with what resignation a Christian could die." The chamber where the good man meets his fate, Is privileg'd beyond the common walk Of virtuous life, quite in the verge of heav'n. A lecture, silent, but of sov'reign pow'r! To vice, confusion j and to virtue, peace. HAMMERSMITH soon appears in sight, (3 m. 5 f.) and on the right of which stands the pleasant seat of R. Ricardo, Esq. On the left is seen, contiguous to the banks of the Thames, the beautiful mansion of the MARGRAVINE of ANSPACH, known by the name of Brandenburgh-IIouse. The approach to it from the water is picturesque in the extreme ; and art has been consulted and employed to render its appearance highly interesting to the spectator: the gardens are FROM LONDON TO BATH. 5 laid out with great taste. The Margravine is a lady not only conspicuous for her eminent literary talents, her splendid private theatricals, performed in the theatre at Brandenburgh-House, in which her serene highness frequently delighted her auditory in the two characters of heroine and author; but was of great notoriety in the fashionable world. From her superior knowledge and facility in the French and Italian lan- guages, her great taste for the arts of poetry and music, and considerable personal attraction, the Margravine was viewed as one of the most admired women of her time. Her highness has published several works in poetry, the drama, travels, and novels ; and, as a traveller, since the days of Lady Mary Wortley Mon- tague, no female ever made so enterprising, extensive, and masculine a tour as the Margravine. In short, few, if any, places of note upon the Continent were suffered to escape her notice or her pen, and fre- quently at the hazard of her existence. The following poem was written by this person of rank, when Lady Craven, on dreaming she saw her heart at her feet: " When Nature, tir'd with thought, was sunk to rest, And all ray senses were by sleep possest ; Sweet sleep, that soft and balmy comfort brings, Alike to beggars and despotic kings ; I dreamt of peace I never felt before, t dreamt my heart was lying on the floor. I view'd it, strange to tell, with joyful eyes, And stranger still, without the least surprise ! Elated with the sight I smiling sat, Exulting o'er the victim at my feet ; But soon with words of anguish thus address'd, This painful, sweet disturber of my breast : ' Say, busy, lively, hoping, trembling thing, What new disaster hast thou now to bring, To torture with thy fears my tender frame, Who must for all her ills thee only blame? (> DBSCRIPT1V E IT1N KRAR Y Speak now, and tell me why, ungrateful guest, For ten years past hast them denied me rest ? Then in my bosom thou wast nurs'd, 'tis true, And with my life and with my stature grew. At first so small were all thy wants, that I Vainly imagin'd I could ne'er deny Whate'er thy fancy ask'd. Alas! but now, I find thy wants my ev'ry sense outgrow ; And ever having, ever wanting more, A power to please, to give, or to adore. Say, why, like other hearts, thou dost not bear, With callous apathy, each worldly care? Why dost thou shrink at Envy's horrid cries ? In thee Compassion Hatred's place supplies. Why not with malice treat malicious meu ? Why ever pity where thou should'st condemn? Why, at the hearing of a dismal tale, Dost thou with sorrow turn thy beauty pale ? Why, when distress in any shape appears, Dost thou dissolve my very soul in tears ? Why, in thy secret folds is Friendship bred? In other hearts its very name is dead. Why, if keen Wit and learned Sense draw nigh, Dost thou with emulation beat so high? And while approving, wish to be approv'd, And when you love, wish more to be belov'd ? Why not, in cold indifference ever clad, Alike unmov'd, regard the good and bad ? Why dost thou waste my youthful bloom with care, And sacrifice myself, that I might share Distress in others ? Why wilt thou adorn Their days with roses, and leave me a thorn?' But here I saw it heave a heavy sigh, And thus in sweetest sounds it did reply : ' Ah! cease, Eliza, cease thy speech unjust; Thy heart has e'er fulfill'd its sacred trust, And ever will its tender mansion serve, Nor can it from thee this reproach deserve : Against my dictates murm'ring have I found, Which thus has laid me bleeding on the ground.' " FROM LONDON TO BATH. 7 In the neighbourhood of Hammersmith stands also the estate of W. Hunter, Esq. TURNHAM-GREEN, (5 m. 1 f.) Contiguous to this little place the following seats are to be met with : G. E. Griffith, Esq. Mrs. Stephens, Ware, Esq. Neale, Esq. and Mrs. Wildman. To the left, Sutton-Court, Sidebottom, Esq. and at Little Sutton, Mrs. Pratt, also Grove-House, Rev. Mr. Lowth ; Fairlawn-House, on the right, Thomson, Esq. But, the most prominent mansion stands on the left of Sutton, Chiswick-House, the residence of the late and present DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE. The slightest glance of this house cannot but awaken the feelings of the passenger with some pleasing recollec- tions concerning two of its dearest inmates, long since consigned to that u bourne from whence no traveller returns." And Chiswick- House will long be remembered, not only for its political meetings under the staunch Whig principles and influence of the Duke, his strong and steady attachment to the Con- stitution, and his amiability of character through life ; but equally renowned as the Temple of the Muses, the abode of Wit, and the circle of elegant and polite literature, under the patronage and taste of the Duchess; whom NATURE and ART had united in rendering one of the most beautiful, accomplished, and superior females of her day. It is thus a cele- brated bard invoked " Old Time," to ward off his dire effects upon her lovely person : Know, should 'st thou bid the beauteous Duchess fade, Thou, therefore, must thy own delights invade ; And know, 'twill be a long, long while, Before thou giv'st her equal to our isle Then do not with this sweet chef-d'oeuvre part, But keep, to shew the triumph of thy art. The traveller is, at length, awakened from this reverie, by the long, stony, jolting town of BRENTFORD, (7 m. 1 f.) consisting of upwards of tf DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY 300 houses, irregularly built, and containing nearly 2000 inhabitants. It is, however, a place of but little notoriety, excepting at the dissolution^ Parliament; yet the memorable spirited contests of those " men of the people," WILKES and SIR FRANCIS BURDETT, have given it a sort of political importance it other- wise would not have acquired. On the left of BRENT- FORD is seen Kew-Bridge; and at various parts of the town, the new palace, built under the immediate direction of His MAJESTY, (although it never became the residence of the King,) is viewed across the river with a pleasing effect, and generally considered as an ornament to Brentford. The propriety of erecting a palace in such a situation has been much questioned, in consequence of the humidity with which the inte- rior has to contend against; but, the palace at Kew derived most of its importance from being the resi- dence of the QUEEN, during her long-protracted illness and death, which occurred on Tuesday, Nov. 17, 1818, at twenty minutes after one o'clock. The re- mains of her Majesty also lay in state at Kew-Palace, previous to their interment in the royal cemetry at Windsor, Dec. 2. His Royal Highness the Prince Regent attended as chief mourner upon this occasion. During one of the longest reigns which ever occurred in this or any other country, (throughout a period of fifty-seven years, in which some political questions of great moment were agitated, and personally connected with her Majesty's situation,) it is almost impossible to suppose, that\the character of the QUEEN could be passed over without some inquiry as to the merits of praise or censure. The charges of parsimony, and even exercising an undue influence in state affairs, have been levelled at her late Majesty, resting, it ap- pears, merely on hearsay and conjecture : it is, how- ever, admitted by all parties, that, in the example of domestic morality and virtue which she constantly held forth to the English people, she merited the FROM LONDON TO BATH. 9 highest praise that a nation can bestow. It would require an age of experience and an unbounded know- ledge of mankind, to make a fair calculation of the innumerable benefits which such an influence as this must have had on society ; and, it is not too much to say, that the chastity which distinguishes the females of this country above all others in the world, a virtue without which political liberty is a mere shadow, was, in some degree, caused by the salutary lessons which the uniform practice of the court had inculcated. Fortunately for the nation, the most useful virtues of private life were practised in a quarter where, like the fashions in dress, it was impossible they should not be imitated ; so that the possession of those virtues was an object of ambition. The noble firmness with which the Queen repelled from her presence females of even the highest rank, whose characters appeared in a suspicious light, must command the admiration and gratitude of all persons, who can appreciate the benefits resulting from public and private morality. The middle classes of society also felt an elevation of mind, and a self-applauding conciousness of their own dignity, when they perceived, that without the prac- tice of those moral virtues which belonged to them- selves, neither rank, title, or wealth, could meet with any countenance at court. The GrundJunction Canal, after running from North- amptonshire through a variety of places, for the dis- tance of 93$ miles, at length unites itself with the Thames at Brentford-Bridge. On passing through Brent- ford, on the left, stands Sion-House, the capacious and elegant mansion of the Duke of Northumberland, fitted up and finished after the best models of Greece and Rome, which, for taste and beauty, is scarcely to be paralleled in Europe ; the approach to which through the grounds is particularly picturesque; and the lion on the top of the handsome gates of the 10 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY lodge, not only designates this prominent ornament of the Northumberland family, but renders the entrance truly grand and imposing. This neighbourhood has also to boast of more houses belonging to some of the most ancient of our nobility. On the right, Sion-Hill, the Duke of Marlborough ; opposite to Sion-Lodge, is the seat of Miss Batten ; and, at the distance of a mile is Osterley-Park, the beautiful residence of the Earl of Jersey, formerly belonging to Mr. Child, the most opulent banker in the city, but which was left by him to Lady Sarah Fane, (who married the above Earl, and daughter to the Countess of Westmorland,) in consequence of the latter's elopement and marriage with the Earl of that name, in opposition to her father, Mr. Child. This circumstance, which once so much agitated the fashionable world, is now got rid of in the mind of the traveller by his arrival at SMALLBERRY-GREEN, (8m. 2 f.) This little village becomes important to the inquisitive mind of the passenger, who learns, that Spring-Grove, on the right, is the seat of that learned antiquary and bota- nist, the Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, Bart. The mildness of manners, the amiability of deportment, and the literary converzationes of this gentleman to benefit his country, and improve the general habits of society, have not been able te preserve him from the attacks of ridicule and satire by the humourous Capt. MORRIS and the facetious (though not always correct as to facts) PETER PINDAR. On the discovery of Botany-Bay, by Capt. Cook, the former poet thus mentions Sir Joseph, in one of his political songs, which was received with great eclat at the Sons of Anacreon, Beef-steak Club, &c. &c. You have heard of Captain Cook, our worthy great com- mander ! The great Sir Joseph Banks, and Doctor Solander ; FROM LONDON TO BATH. 11 They sail'd round the world, were perplex'd and were teas'd too, To find out a place where the King might send " his thieves" to! So Britons fill up bumpers, rejoice now and all sing, What " a glorious set of thieves " we shall have from their offspring. Bow, wow. Thus also Peter Pindar satirizes the learned Sir Joseph's pursuits: Sir Joseph, fav'rite of great queens and kings, Whose wisdom weed and insect hunter sings ; And ladies fair applaud, with smile so dimpling ; Went forth one day, amidst the laughing fields, Where nature such exhaustless treasure yields, A simpling ! It happen'd on the self-same morn so bright, The nimble pupils of Sir Sampson Wright,* A simpling, too, for plants, called thieves, proceeded; Of which the naiion's field should oft be weeded, ' Sirs, I'm no highwayman,' exclaim' d the knight, ' No there,' rejoin'd the runners, ' you are right, A footpad only Yes, we know your trade- Yes, you're a pretty babe of grace ; We want no proofs, old codger, but your face ; So come along with us, old blade.' Now to the 'squire familiar bow'd the knight, Who knew Sir Joseph at first sight, What's strongly mark'd, is quickly known again And with a pause that awe and dread commanded, The thief- takers severely reprimanded, For thus mistaking gentlemen. Then on their knuckles rais'd their hands and eyes, And crav'd Sir Joseph's pardon for belief, That when they jurnp'd upon him by surprise, They took so great a gemman for a thief, Hoping to mind th' advice of godly books, Fiz. not to judge of people by their looks. * One of the then police-magistrates at Bow-Street-Office. 12 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY But a truce to PETER and his muse, as the coach is arrived at HOUNSLOW, (9m. 3 f.) a town of little note; and, although time is afforded the traveller to exercise his mind while the horses are changing, and " coachy " is taking his little whet, yet no objects present them- selves worthy of his immediate attention. But, not- withstanding, there are several good seats contiguous to Hounslow belonging to Mrs. Fullerton; Whitton- Place, George Gostling, Esq. Here is also Whitton- Park, so justly celebrated for its fine cedars of Leba- non; and the residences also of Sir Benjamin Hob- house; Samuel Prime, and James Campbell, Esqrs. On leaving the town, on the left, is the great road to the Land's End, of 290 miles. On crossing the Heath, once of such " dread import," (a few years since either by day or night,) and so very fruitful to the pages of the Newgate Calendar, from its numerous collectors, (otherwise highwaymen,) all the palpitations of the heart, shiverings, and cold sweats, which for- merly operated upon the delicate feelings of the female passengers, under the apprehension of being robbed every instant, and the anxieties and state of suspense experienced by the more courageous male travellers, " whistling aloud, like the school-boy, to keep their courage up," are now completely removed, and Hounslow-Heath has become almost as safe as riding through St. James's Park. This change, perhaps, is not owing to an increase of horse and foot patroles, exertions of the police-officers, or well-armed guards to most of the stage-coaches, but to be attributed to the change which has taken place in committing de- predations upon the public, with less hazard to the robber for his personal safety. The following original anecdote may prove acceptable, concerning one of those " high spirits " of the school of crime, a noted highwayman upon the above Heath, a great collector, and a perfect Macheath in real life, surrounded by FROM LONDON TO BATH. 13 doating mistresses, yet ultimately was betrayed or " sold" to the officers of justice by a favourite dulcinea, and, at length, received sentence of death, but whose punishment was commuted for transporta- tion for life. NED HALLORAN, possessing principles that would have reflected credit on a better cause acting up to the strictest scale of honour in every private transaction of his life; yet even his conviction, he asserted, could not convince his mind, that he had been guilty of a crime, in taking from those persons who had plenty of property, in order to relieve him- self who had none. Such was the character of this robber. Upon one of his collecting days on the above Heath, he stopped a goldsmith and refiner, a man of considerable property and importance in the City of London, and took from him, without any resistance, his cash, gold watch, chain, and seals, and also his silver knee and shoe-buckles, and very politely wished the refiner a good morning. NED, thinking it was all right and safe, after a small circuitous route over the Heath, put up his horse at an inn to take refreshment; his repast being ended, and just as he was ready to mount his horse, the refiner rode into the yard, but did not recognize him. HALLORAN left the inn with- out the slightest agitation ; and, in the course of a few days afterwards, strange to say, but strictly true, NED, in his own person, oifered the above stolen articles to the refiner upon his counter; when the latter looked up at HALLORAN, without betraying any appearance of recollection, and immediately saw the man who had robbed him upon Hounslow-Heath; yet the refiner, with the utmost coolness and business-like manner, paid him the worth of them, and HALLORAN retired from the shop in safety. It is thus accounted for. This refiner, it seems, was what the thieves term a fence ;* and NED must have been directed to his shop * A receiver of stolen goods. 14 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY by some of his own fraternity ; and, therefore, the refiner pocketed the affront, for fear if any noise had been made upon the subject, his own iniquitous prac- tices might have been discovered. It is a positive fact, that the above refiner, in a few years after this transaction, put a period to his existence, to avoid the disgrace of a public trial for forging the Goldsmiths' Company's mark, to pass the articles he sold as gold. The countenances of both the thief and the receiver, upon recognizing each other, and yet each, with the utmost coolness, keeping the secret, would have been a fine subject for the pencil of a HOGARTH. The above is one among the numerous, singular circum- stances that occur in London, without ever obtaining publicity. But the highwayman, footpad, and house- breaker, are now, in a great degree, lost sight of in the passers of forged bank-notes, as running a less risk of detection ; and the facilities of obtaining these notes are so easy, that they are bought and sold with as much regularity as any articles of trade. One decided proof of the vast extent of this species of crime is, the Solicitor of the Bank of England obtains ,20,000 per annum as the price of his prosecutions. The long heath is now passed, and the traveller finds himself at CRANFORD-BRIDGE, (12 m. 2 f.) About half a mile distant from this bridge stands Cranford-Park, the seat of the Countess (relict of the late Earl) Berkeley, rendered so interestingly conspicuous in the fashionable world upon the death of the above noble- man, in consequence of the interference of the House of Lords to protect their privileges of bestowing the title upon the legal heir. The right of succession, it should seem, operated very much upon the paternal feelings of the Earl previous to his demise ; and, not- withstanding the heavy forfeiture of estates and penal- ties laid upon any one of the family by his will, for- mally attested, who should attempt to disturb the FROM LONDON TO BATH. 15 right of liis eldest son to enjoy the title, &c. it was, after a most minute, laborious, and voluminous, inves- tigation, by the peers of the realm, (which involved rather an unpleasant expose of the domestic circum- stances of this noble and ancient family,) finally deter- mined, that the youngest son (of five) was the truly legal inheritor to the title and Berkeley estates. It is, however, worthy of remark, that, upon the same evening this decision of the House of Lords was made public, Colonel Berkeley (the hitherto presumed heir) received this change in his fortune with the utmost composure. He lost no time in calling his numerous retinue together, and taking his youngest brother by the hand, addressed them, saying, " This is Earl Berkeley -and my designation, in future, only Colonel." The " law" it is true, has been complied with in removing the title; but, it appears, that the brotherly affection existing between the sons, the anxiety to pay attention to the will of their deceased parent, (whose feelings upon so delicate a question were of the most praiseworthy and laudable descrip- tion, originating from the real impulse of nature,) that the " property " has not been disturbed. SIMPSON-GREEN, (13m. 4f.) Here are only a few straggling houses and the sign of the Magpies ; but, the country on both sides of the traveller is pleasant, though nothing of any importance is to be seen, till he arrives at LONGFORD, (15 m.) At a small distance on the left of the road are the seats of Sir Edwin Francis Stanhope and Sir John Gibbons, Barts. and about two miles on the right, at West Drayton, is the residence of Fyshe De Burgh, Esq. The old road, that runs on the left, makes to the Thames ; but the new one, on the right, goes to BUSHY-PARK. The recollection of this latter place is not particularly important from its being the splendid retreat of roy- alty, and the abode of the Duke of Clarence; but, it 16 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY is truly conspicuous in being once the residence of the late generous, amiable, but unfortunate, Mrs. JORDAN ; and cannot fail in exciting some of the most feeling sensations in the mind of the traveller, at the vicissi- tudes of h r interesting career, and the melancholy peiiod of existence experienced by this highly-gifted female. Praising what is lost, Makes the remembrance more dear. SHAKSPEARE. 'Tis past and to a foreign grave consign'd That form, that face, which gave so much delight, No more that voice will charm where sweetness join'd, Nor THESPIAN boast a gem again so bright. For she had power to charm the dullest soul, On ev'ry action rapt attention hung ; Our smiles, our tears, alike she could controul, For eloquence flow'd matchless from her tongue. In CORA, sweetly did she play her part! No word, no action, was with her at strife, Her feelings flow'd spontaneous from the heart, The anxious mother and the tender wife. In ANGELA the various trails portray'd How fine the innocence and firmness join, The duteous daughter and the love-sick maid, She did in turn, most beautifully, combine. Her talents rose in PEGGY'S playful form ROSALIND VIOLA and PICKLE too; Each character how well she did adorn, And to her mem'ry ev'ry praise is due ! She that was once to ROYALTY a friend Now in a foreign earth she rests her head ; Her on whose smiles once numbers did depend, Yet no companion cheer'd her dying-bed ! She that had known a MOTHER'S tender name, In her last moments no fond child was near, From strangers she did those attentions claim, And strangers gave the tribute of a tear ! PROM LONDON TO BATH. 17 It seems the tale of fiction to relate, This once great Actress liv'd to be unknown, But such, alas ! was found her wayward fate, That in the hour of death all friends were flown. Her virtues many seek not her faults to view, Whate'er they were they're buried in her bier- This humble tribute to her merit's due, And MEM'RY still will give her name a tear! An impenetrable veil, it seems, has hitherto obscu- red the real cause of the separation of this superior female from the protection of the Duke of Clarence, after being the mother of ten children, and many of whom having been introduced to the Queen and other branches of the Royal Family : but suffice, however afflicting to relate, she that had been the delight of the age in which she lived justly acknowledged the prop of THALIA, and the mirror of the stage; and after participating in the magnificence and splendour attach- ed, as it were, in her being looked upon as the very idolatry of royalty, (although, in truth, principally supported by her own unrivalled talents,) was, at length, suffered to end her life in an obscure lodging in Paris, and privately interred (scarcely without an at- tendant) in the cemetry of St. Cloud, July 3, 1816. Two spirited and feeling Englishmen, it is said, upon hearing of the circumstance, and out of grateful remem- brance from the pleasure they had derived from her merits as an actress, had a stone erected to her memory, with the following inscription : DOROTHEA JORDAN, quae multos annos, Londini inque liis Britanniae urbibus, scenam egregie ornavit, lepore Comico, vocis suavitate, puellarura hilarium, alternis-que sexus moribus habitu imitandis, null; secunda : ad exercen- dam eamxjua tarn feliciter versata est, artem, ultres egendium adversas sublivaret, nemo promptior. E vit exiit 3tio nonas Julii 1816, annos nata 50. Mementote lugete. c 18 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY The traveller, who seems lost in a complete reverie, that out of the numerous remembrances in Westmin- ster-Abbey, one small niche, could not have been found to recognize the loss of such unbounded talents and real worth, if not to prevent from total oblivion one of the greatest ornaments of the British stage, is, at length, awakened from the thoughts of neglect and ingratitude, by his entering into Buckinghamshire, and arriving at COLNBROOK, (16m. 6 f.) On the right is Ilitchings-Park, belonging to the Right Hon. John Sullivan ; and, on the left stands Horton-House. LANGLEY-BROOM, (18 m. 2 f.) On the left of which is Ditton-Park, the seat of Lord Montague ; and, on the right, that of Sir R. B. Harvey, known as Langley-Park. TETSWORTH-WATER, (19m. 2 f.) is of no in- terest, till the traveller arrives at SLOUGH, (20 m. 4 f.) This place is rather attrac- tive in being the residence of the great astronomer, Sir William Herschell. The superior talents exhibited by Sir William, and the discoveries he has made in the grand and sublime science of astronomy, is a de- cided proof what perfection may be attained by any individual, supported by industry and application; and, as an addition to his character, it seems, Sir William Herschell is entirely self-taught. In this neighbourhood are also the seats of H. Daw, . Edwards, and J. Penn, Esqrs. and Capt. Vyse. SALT-HILL, (21 m. 2 f.) From this place, on the left, is a fine view of Windsor-Castle, rendered more interesting and attractive in being the resi- dence of our revered and venerable monarch, George III. whose length of reign is without parallel; and, at the period of writing this paragraph, (November the 10th, 1818), it is worthy of remark, he has been King of England upwards of fifty-eight years the queen in existence twelve sons and daughters living, FROM LONDON TO BATH. 19 and the youngest child of their majesties more than forty years of age. In his retreat from the public eye, it may be truly observed, Yes, we have lost a father ! The greatest blessing heaven bestows on mortals, And, seldom found amidst these wilds of time, A good, a worthy King ! Here is also a fine prospect of Eton-College. Con- tiguous to Slough and Salt- Hill are numerous resi- dences, among which will be found those of the Marchioness of Thomond; Cranbourn-Lodge, late Nash, Esq. Clewer-Spire ; Sophia-Farm, Dawson, Esq. and the Earl of Harcourt's, at St. Leonard's Hill. Also Farnham Royal Church; Brit- well-Honse, Hon. George Irby; a view of Burnham church and village; Iluntercombe, J. T. Atkyns, Esq. the Willows, late H. T. Ward, Esq. and Dropmoro- Hill, the seat of that distinguished and profound statesman, Lord Grenville. MAIDENHEAD-BRIDGE, (25 in. <2 f.) is a light and elegant erection ; and, the exterior of the inns have an imposing appearance, from the way in which they are decorated with flowers. This part of the country should seem very attractive to the nobility and gentry, from the various seats with which it is surrounded. On the right, at Taplow, is Lord Rivers- dale, P. Grenfell, Esq. and Lady Courtenay. On the hill, the Countess of Orkney; Taplow-Lodge and Monkey-Island, belonging to P.-C. Bruce, Esq. near to which are, Water Oakley, Harford, Esq. Filbert, C. Fuller, Esq. The Retreat, late Lady Bowyer ; and one mile, on the right, the beautiful woods of the Countess of Orkney are to be seen. Also Hedsor, Lord Boston ; on the left, at some dis- tance, is Dorney-Court, Sir C. H. Palmer, Bart. Braywick-Lodge, Sir J. W. Waller, Bart. ; and Can- non-Hill, C. S. Murray, Esq. In the neighbourhood c 2 20 DE:>CtiJPTIVE ITINERARY of the above, are the residences of B. Witts, Esq. Lady Pocock, and Sir William Herne. MAIDENHEAD, (26 m.) a small corporate town, containing 167 houses, and about 800 inhabitants, near to which are the following seats: on the left is Ives-House, belonging to Wilson, Esq. and, on the right, Hall-Place, Sir W. East, Bart. ; and Bisham-Abbey, George Vansittart, Esq. MAIDENHEAD-THICKET, (28m.) The road about this place is interesting, and well sprinkled with delightful residences. On the left is Heywood- Lodge, Sawyer, Esq. and the spire of Shottesbrook- Church is to be seen, which enlivens the prospect. Here are also the seats of A. Vansittart, Esq. Pinke Lee, Esq. Woolley-Hall, late Rev. Mr. Palmer, and Stubbins, belonging to Lady Dorchester. KILN-GREEN, (31m.) On the right is the residence of Henry Fonnereau, Esq. and, on the left, Scarlet, Lee Perrott, Esq. HARE-HATCH, (32m.) The traveller would scarcely ask the name of these little places, were it not for the seats which are contiguous to them. On the right is Bear-Place, Sir Morris Ximenes, and Dalton, Esq. and, on the left, are the residences of J. Montagu, Esq. and Ruscombe-House, Blake, Esq. TWYFORD, (33 m. 6 f.) About a mile distant on the right you view Shiplake-Hill, the seat of Mrs. Newell ; and on the left, Stanlake, belonging to Sir N. Dukenfield, Bart. The road also, for five miles, is by no means uninteresting, and among the following retreats from the busy world, is found the residence of that learned civilian, the Right Hon. Sir William Scott, brother to the Lord Chancellor. Both of these gentlemen, from their splendid talents and industry, have risen to the very high offices they fill in the government, and may be said to have been the only architects of their great fortunes and well-deserved PROM LONDON TO BATH. 21 tame. Here is also Woodley- Lodge, belonging to J. Wheeble, Esq.; Sunning, R. Palmer, Esq.; and Cavesham-House, the property of Major Marsack. READING, (38 m. 7 f.) is a corporate town of considerable interest and extent. It contains numerous excellent buildings, some good streets, several churches, and a theatre. The assizes are also held here. The inhabitants are calculated at about 11,000, and the number of the houses between 2 and 3,000. A great deal of business is carried on in Reading. About half a mile on the left stands Coley-Park, thereat of Berke- ley Monck, Esq.; and, further on the right, is Pro- spect-Hill, J. Liebemod, Esq. CALCOT-GREEN, (41 m. 4 f.) on the right of which is Calcot-Park, the seat of J. Blagrave, Esq. ; and at a small distance is Tyler's Parsonage, the resi- dence of the Rev. Dr. Routh. THEAL, (43 m. 5 f.) On the left hand is Sulhamp- stead, the seat of William Thoytes, Esq. and Engle- field-House, about a mile on the right, belonging to Richard Benyon, Esq. ; and further on is Beenham- house, the property of the Rev. J. Bostock. WOOLHAMPTON, (49 m. 1 f.) contiguous to this place are the following seats : on the left is Padworth- house, H. Clark, Esq.; also Aldermaston-house and park, W. Congreve, Esq.; and Wing-house, late W. Morant, Esq. THATCHAM, (52 m. 6 f.) Almost a solitary pub- lic house, the King's Head, merely to refresh the waggoner, forms the principal feature of this place. SPEENHAMLAND, (55 m. 6f.) On the right of which is Shaw-Place, the seat of Sir Joseph Andrews, Bart. Immediately adjoining Speenhamland is NEWBURY, (55 m. 7 f.) a corporate town. The buildings are old and irregular, and it contains no feature of any particular interest. Its inhabitants are estimated at 5000; but the houses do not exceed 1100. NEWBURY is considered about the half-way 22 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY to BATH ; and some of the coaches make a short stay here to dine ; indeed the time allowed for this neces- sary refreshment is so short, that the traveller has scarcely swallozccd a few mouthfuls, when he is inter- rupted by the coachman that " all is ready, 1 ' and he must either go without his belly-full, or stand a chance of choking himself by bolting the remainder of his food, if he means to make any thing like a dinner, in order to accommodate the coachman. This may be deemed one of the " miseries of travelling ,-" and it should almost seem that coachy has a secret under- standing with " mine host" to turn these things to good account. This is one of the grievances which travellers in general ought to resist : and the proprie- tors of stage-coaches should be compelled to make a public statement in their bills that they allow a suffi- cient reasonable time for passengers to enjoy a com- fortable meal upon the road. SPEEN (56 m. 6 f.) is surrounded both on the right and left with a variety of seats, belonging to the following ladies : Mrs. Wasey ; Mrs. Craven ; Miss Hulberts ; and Mrs. S. Quintins ; Donnington, or Chaucer's Grove, belonging to John Bebb, Esq. and Donnington Castle-House, Col. Stead. Also the resi- dences of F. C. Parry, Esq. and the Rev. G. Wyld: but the most prominent and attractive to the mind of the traveller is Goldwall-IIall, the seat of George Canning, Esq. BENHAM-PARK, (57 m. 5 f.) the seat of An- thony Bacon, Esq. and at the end of which is Hem- stead-Lodge, belonging to the Earl of Craven. This nobleman elevated to the rank of his countess, Miss- Brunton, belonging to Covent-Garden-Theatre, a lady of great personal beauty and attractions, and possess- ing considerable theatrical talents. About three miles on the right is Welford-Park, belonging to the Rev. John Robinson. HALFWAY-HOUSE, (59 m. 5 f.) within one FROM LONDON TO BATH. 23 mile and a half of this place, on the left, is Barton- Court, the seat of C. Dundas, Esq. and at a little distance is Wallingtons, Mackaness, Esq. ; and Inglewood-House, the residence of Mrs. Shaw. HUNGERFORD (64 m. 1 f.) has to boast of one good broad street, a capacious market-house, a neat church, and some excellent inns. It is, however, a small town, containing not more than 400 houses; and whose inhabitants do not exceed 2000 souls. Most of the stage-coaches change horses at Hunger- ford; and, if the traveller should prove thirsty, the " homc-brcin-d" of thi*> place is really excellent; and its character for soundness of quality, pleasant- ness of taste, and as good as was " e'er tipt o'er the tongue," has long been established for many miles round the country. Numerous gentlemen's seats are also contiguous to this town. Within one mile, on the left, is Ilungerford-Park, the residence of John Willis, Esq.; and, on the right, at Deuford, W. Hal- let, Esq. Near the bridge is Chilton-Lodge, John Pearce, Esq.; Littlecott-Park, Gen. Leyborne Pop- ham ; a newly-erected fine mansion, C. Mallett, Esq. and Standon-Park, S. Bevan, Esq. A military depot has been established in this neighbourhood. But the most important circumstance connected with Hunger- ford is Ramsbury- Manor- House, belonging to Sir Francis Burdett, Bart, one of the most distinguished public characters of England, and the avowed friend of liberty, the constitution, and the oppressed subject. His parliamentary life abounds with interest. Three times returned for Westminster in the true purity of election; but yet he has numerous opponents, who hold his principles as too violent. He who contends for freedom Can ne'er be justly deem'd his sov 'reign's foe ; No, 'tis the wretch that tempts him to subvert it, The soothing slave, the traitor in the bosom, Who best deserves that name ; he is a worm That cats out all the happiness of kingdoms. 24 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY FROXFIELD, (66 m. 7 f.) a small place, consisting only of a few straggling houses, but nevertheless en- titled to some import, from its range of nice alms- houses, founded by the Duchess of Somerset, for the widows of clergymen ; and, about four miles from the main road, is Tottenham-Park, belonging to the Earl of Aylesbury. MARLBOROUGH-FOREST, (71 m. 1 f.) The road here is delightfully picturesque for two or three miles, and the fine clusters of trees in this forest rise proudly to the eye of the traveller. On the left is Severnake-Lodge, Earl of Aylesbury. MARLBOROUGH, ( 74 m. 1 f . ) a respectable corporate town, containing nearly 500 houses, and about 3000 inhabitants. On the left, through the town, is seen a large mansion, formerly the residence of the Duke of Somerset, but now metamorphosed into the Castle Inn : and, at no great distance from which, is the figure of a white horse, cut remarkably well out of the grass, which has a good effect, whose symmetry, taking its dimensions into the scale of merit, is far above mediocrity ; but it sustains a con- siderable drawback, when it is found to be a mere copy of the original at Cherrill, more of which will be mentioned hereafter: it has however a handsomer neck. Within a mile and a half from Marlborough, on the right, is Rockley-House, the Hon. Genlt. John. M ANTON, (75 in. 4 f.) Of no interest whatever to the inquisitive traveller. FIFIELD, (76 in. 6 f.) Of the same description. OVERTON, (77 m. 7 f.) On the left of tins place, about three-quarters of a mile, is Lockridge- House, the residence of J. Benton, Esq. and Kennet- Hall, belonging to Matthews, Esq. WEST RENNET, (79 m. 2 f.) The White Hart here, which stands almost alone, excepting a straggling farm-house or two, is famed for selling " a cup ol good stingo." FROM LONDON TO BATH. 25 Here the poor waggoner, who (broil'd with heat And chok'd with dust) seeking the cool retreat Of tempting pot-house, bord'ring on the road To slake his thirst with nut-brown ale so good. It is the crack of the beverage in this part of the country : indeed it is in such high repute, that the farmers and coachmen along the road would think it a positive libel upon their want of taste to pass by the White Hart, at West Rennet, without drinking the health of the " old hostess," who has long had the merit of producing this wholesome liquid. It is also- distinguished for a remarkable barrow, about half a mile distant on the right of Silbury-Hill ; a little fur- ther is to be seen, at Averbury, the antique and archi- tectural ruins of a large Druid's te i:ple. If the tra- veller could alight to view this ruin, it would amply repay him for his curiosity. Averbury-House is the residence of Jones, Esq. SILBURY-HILL, (80 m.) This is u fine open part of the country, and nothing of cultivation is neglected. BECKHAMPTON-INN, (80 m. C f.) only con- spicuous as a place of refreshment, and its delightful ride across the downs to CHERRILL, (83 m. 7 f.) This place is a great object of attraction to the traveller, from the large White Horse cut out of the turf, upon a hill of chalky substance, and viewed as a distinguished land-mark. The above horse is remarkably well executed, and its colossal size may be seen with the greatest ease at the distance of several miles. The tail, it is said, mea- sures fifteen yards; and from its extremity to the head, it must be an expert flinger of a stone to reach it. When close to the figure, it has nothing like the appearance of a horse. It occasions considerable bet- ting amongst the passengers in the different stage-coaches who daily pass by it. The original idea, and merit of cutting it otU t belonged to one CHRISTOPHER ALSOP, 26 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY a surgeon, at Calne; and, added to his well- earned reputation as a medical man, he was a most ingenious mechanic. The memory of this person is much revered in the neighbourhood of Calne, from his benevolent disposition and Christian-like traits, which adorned his character. Mr. ALSOP came to Calne a journeyman apothecary, but, in the course of a few short years, he realized a most ample fortune. He was a man of much literary taste ; complete mas- ter of mechanics; and a superior maker of telescopes. He never refused the call of the unfortunate in the hour of distress and trouble ; and was known, for many years after he had retired from business, to go many miles to attend the poor at his own expense. His death was a great loss to the inhabitants of Calne and neighbourhood. Whether GEORGE COLMAN, in his researches after real characters, had in his eye Mr. ALSOP, when he penned the following lines, we cannot ascertain, but they may be considered to apply to him : His fame full six miles round the country ran ; In short, in reputation he was solus ; All the old women call'd him a fine man, His name was BOLUS. Benjamin Bolus, though in trade, Which oftentimes will genius fetter, Read works of learning, it is said, And cultivated the Belles Lettres. On the completion of the above horse, it was cele- brated on the spot by a sort of fair, which was kept up on a certain day in every year; but latterly it has been given up. About half a mile further, on the right from the road, is Compton-Bassett-House, the seat of Mrs. Heneage ; and, on the left, is Blackland- House, the residence of John Merewether, Esq. QUEMERFORD-BRIDGE(86m. 1 f.) leads on to CALNE, (87 m.) which possesses an excellent FROM LONDON TO BATH. 27 market-house, a large inn, and one tolerable street. It contains about 800 houses ; and its inhabitants at near 4000. On the left is the Castle-House, the residence of Mrs. Bendry. It is curious to ob- serve numerous little children, without shoes or stock- ings, about here upon the road, running alongside the coach like race-horses, and keeping it up for a considerable distance, in hopes to get a tew halfpence from the passengers, the girls, keeping tight hold of their petticoats, and tumbling over head and heels, with the greatest ease and agility. These children have so much daily practice in this sort of exercise, that few, if any, of the celebrated pedestrians could beat them for a short distance. Immediately on quit- ting the coach, they generally lay themselves down in the road, till another stage appears in sight, and so on till the end of the day. STUDLEY, (89 m. 6 f.) Through this place, on the left, is Bo wood, the magnificent residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Considerable taste and elegance are to be discovered in these venerable shades, formed under the immediate direction of the first Marquis. The mansion is also distinguished for its union of grandeur and simplicity. If the paint- ings have not to boast of being a collection of the first ancient masters, the library is composed of the choicest and most valuable articles of literature. The present Marquis is also prominent for his attention to the polite arts. The political career of the above young Chancellor of the Exchequer, although short, will never be forgotten by the lovers of humanity, in being connected with an administration, that cancel- led all its errors, by an abolition of that disgraceful traffic, denominated the SLAVE TRADE; and also, in making this traffic felony by law ? and punished as a crime against the welfare and character of society in general. DERRY-HILL, (90 m. 1 f.) The country about 28 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY here is not only pleasant and picturesque, but well .cultivated. CHIPPENHAM (92 m. 6 f.) is a corporate town, containing two or three capacious and good inns, about 800 houses, of antique look; and the inhabi- tants are estimated at between 3 and 4000 persons. The passenger passes through it without any particular interest. On the left, at a small distance from the town, is Ivy-House, the residence of Robert Humphreys, Esq. For five miles the road produces very few objects to attract the attention of the tra- veller, excepting the safety of his seat, from the in- cessant jolting, in fact, almost jumping, the stage experiences upon this stony road, till he arrives at the small town of PICKWICK, (97 in.) A degree of importance is attached to this small place, from its contiguity to Corsham-House, (J m.) the celebrated seat of Paul Cobb Methuen, Esq. whose superb collection of paintings are the theme and admiration of every visitor; but more of this hereafter, in its proper place. On the right of Pickwick stands Hartham-Park, the seat of Jay, Esq. and Pickwick-Lodge, be- longing to Caleb Dickenson, Esq. The prospects along the road delightfully increase, till the passenger arrives at BOX, (99 m. 6 f.) This is altogether a pretty inte- resting village, something after the descriptive style of GOLDSMITH: Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain, Where health and plenty cheer'd the labouring swain. The cleanness of the houses, which are all made of free (or Bath) stone; a neat little church, built of the same materials, adds to the interest of the scene the useful farrier's shed the stocks for the unruly, erected more in terrorem, perhaps, than of any mate- rial service the appearance of two small inns, FROM LONDON TO BATH. 29 of an inviting character in short, Box is truly com- pact, and may be viewed as no bad prelude to the " great Bath." About a mile on the right is Shock- erwick, the seat of John Wiltshire, Esq. The mind of the traveller is tolerably well occupied till he arrives at BATH-EASTON, (103 m. 2 f.) This is a small town, of one tolerable street in length, and the ap- pearance of the houses is very neat and clean. In this neighbourhood is Bailbrook- Lodge, a recent esta- blishment formed for the reception of decayed ladies of respectability and high rank, under the patronage and sanction of her late Majesty. Also Bath-easton- Villa, once the residence of Sir John Millar. This seat was distinguished for the weekly parties of his lady, famed for their poetic productions. It is now the residence of Dr. Broadbelt. On the left is Hampton-House, the seat of G. Allen, Esq. and Lambridge-House, the residence of Dr. Haygarth. Several other gentlemen's seats are contiguous to Bath-easton, and the pro- spects and variety of subjects along the road inte- rest the traveller, till he descends the hill adjoining to Walcot. DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY ENTRANCE TO BATH FROM THE LONDON ROAD. From Lambridge, through Grosvenor- Place Beaufort- Buildings Worcester- Terrace Percy -Place Kensington-Place (KENSINGTON-CHAPEL) Pic- cadilly Lower East Hayes Hanover- Place, Brunswick - Street York- Place Iron-Home, Dover, and Bedford-Streets Albemarle-Buildings Myrtle-Place Long- Acre Walcot Buildings, Terrace, andParade (WALCOT-Cn APEL) Nelson and Margaret Places London-Street Somerset- Street Vineyards Paragon-Buildings Bladud - Buildings York- Build ings to the YORK-HOTEL. To the most indifferent traveller, who scarcely " reads as he runs>;" or, perhaps, labouring under the mental debility of ennui THE ENTRANCE TO BATH cannot fail in removing this frigid apathy, and awaken his feelings to the numerous interesting objects which, in rapid succession, present themselves to his notice: but, to the admirers of NATURE and ART, and particularly to the lovers of taste and ele- gance, This .ancient city, How wanton sits she, amidst Nature's smiles ! Nor from her highest turret has to view But golden landscapes and luxuriant scenes : it rises with peculiar grandeur ; also, its well distri- buted buildings, and amphitheatric arrangement of crescents, splendid seats, &c. surrounded by the lofty hills of Claverton-Down on the left, ornamented with the look-out of the exterior of an antique castle, erected merely to connect the extensive opening, FROM LONDON TO BATH. 31 which stretches out with a view of Prior-Park and its superb mansion ; while, on the right, the prospect is equally imposing, the vast ascent of Lansdowne-Hill, Mount-Beacon, &c. &c. with the addition of some delightful and harmonizing scenery, produce a com- bination and an effect, that makes the tout ensemble operate upon the mind of the stranger, like a well- written preface to an important and superior work, stimulating him eagerly to peruse every page of it, till he becomes completely master of the subject. The appearance of BATH is altogether nouvelle, possess- ing a rank exclusively its own, and from its uniformity and classic architecture, has to boast of a decided Roman character. NATURE, it should seem, has been truly liberal to this fertile valley ; and industry and talents, for nearly the last century, have scarcely suf- fered a moment to elapse, without studying to grace it with the advantages of ART, to make the above gift still more attractive. It is thus described by a modern artist: " Viewed under the influence of a meridian sun, and through the medium of an unclouded atmo- sphere, BATH presents to the sight and imagination every thing that is united with the idea of perfect beauty ; and so strong is the impression it makes upon the mind of almost all people at first sight, that the prepossession is converted into opinion; and when enveloped in those exhalations which arise from its salubrious springs, it is still called to mind in all its loveliness and attractions."* On descending the hill to Walcot, the traveller is actively engaged with the pleasing appearance which the suburbs of this fashionable city offer to his attention. Immediately upon his right is the new road, that turns off to Oxford and Cheltenham. In proceeding onwards, a neat row of houses, called Lambridge, is to be seen, with long gardens, tastefully * Ibbetson. 32 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY laid out in front of them. A few trees and hedges, also, intersect in various places the different houses, giving this part of it the air of an elegant village. Grosvenor-Place, on the left of the road, has a very magnificent appearance. It is a long range of high mansions, built upon a lofty terrace, enclosed with iron rails, with trees planted in the gravel-walk. In the centre of the place is a most ca- pacious building, with seven Ionic pillars in front, richly ornamented, intended for an inn; but which operates as a sort of drawback, from this hotel and part of the place being left in an unfinished state. Beaufort-Buildings, on the opposite road, is of an equally fashionable nature, with a broad pavement, carriage-way, and a large green promenade, also en- closed with iron rails. This prelude is prepossessing, and every progressive stop strengthens the impression of the respectability and importance of Bath ; the eye not being familiar with the smoothness and cream- coloured appearance of the free-stone, which gives the houses such an air of cleanliness, altogether, that the effect is unusually cheerful. In passing through the turnpike, the appearances of houses on the hill, upon the right of the spectator, burst upon him very corv- spicuously. To the left of the gate is a very superior newly-erected row of houses, with very handsome long -paved fore-courts, enclosed with iron rails. Next, in succession, on the right, is Worcester- Terrace, and opposite to which is Percy-Place, both attractive situations, with walks and trees planted before the doors. Kensington-Place is also a terrace of some quality, with a carriage-way to it, the front enclosed with iron rails, and gates at each end of it. Opposite to this handsome range of dwellings are gardens; and, the houses upon the hill, rising above each other to a great height, cannot fail of interesting the attention of the passing stranger. On the left, is Kensington- Chapel, erected under the direction of Mr. PALMER, FROM LONDON TO BATH. 33 which is a neat building, in the modern style of archi- tecture. Within its walls, it is 62 feet in length, and 42 feet 6 inches wide. It has also a recess, 21 feet by 12 feet 6 inches. To render it comfortable to in- valids, it has three fire-places. It was opened for Divine Service in 1795. On the right is Picca- dilhj ; but, in comparison with this place in the Metro- polis, it is merely the same name. Lower East Hayes, Hanover-Place, Brmuwick-9trect t York-Place, Iron- House, Dover and Bedford Streets, are extremely short, and not above mediocrity. Here elegance gradually gives way to the minor habitations of little tradesmen and shopkeepers; and business now attracts the attention of the traveller. Albemarle-Buildinx and Myrtle-Place are soon passed by ; and Long-Acre only possesses three small houses, but out of which, to have something like similarity to its namesake in Lon- don, two of them are coach-makers. Walcot Build- ings and Terrace are tolerably neat residences ; but in no competition to Walcot- Parade, which stands very high on the right of the road, with a paved promenade before it, commanding a good prospect, and enclosed with iron railing. Nelson 1 : Place and Margaret-Place are of no import. On turning into London-Street, Walcot New Chapel pre- sents itself. Of the religious kind, it is one of the most elegant chapels in Bath. The foundation-stone was laid on the 31st of March, 1815, and opened in May, 1816. In the front, it has an elegant portico of the Grecian Doric, and on the tablet is inscribed " WALCOT-CHAPEL, 1815." It has also on the frieze " DFO SACRUM." Divine service is performed three times every Sunday. It is 71 feet in length, and in width 52 ; and has a commodious school under- neath it, capable for instructing 800 children, with an excellent enclosed burying-ground. It is considered a great ornament to this part of the town. Walcot- Church is soon passed on the left, and Somerset-Street D 34 DESCRIPTIVE ITINERARY gone through with little interest, till the Vineyards, Paragon, and Bladud-Btiildings, claim the notice of the spectator. There is more solidity than elegance in the appearance of these houses, although well built. The Vineyards has, however, to boast of a capacious place of worship, built by the late Countess of Hunting- don ; the interior of which is interesting. It has a hand- some gallery, and a good organ ; the singing at this chapel is mentioned with much respect. The prayers are read by a minister of the Church of England. York- Buildings now puts an end to the journey; and the traveller alights at the York- Hotel, to refresh him- self from the fatigue he has undergone, amuse himself with the attractions and comforts which this unrival- led tavern affords to all its visitors during their stay, and to prepare himself for future observations in his " WALKS THKOUGH BATH." The above HOTEL is a fine building, and considered one of the largest and best inns in the kingdom, out of London. Its accommodations are in the first style of excellence, under the superintendence of Messrs. Lucas and Reilly. In the season it overflows with company of the highest rank in life. The dining-roorn is equal, if not superior, to the large room at the Crown and Anchor, in London. The suite of rooms correspond, and are furnished in the most superb manner. It has a subscription-club of the first respectability, deno- minated the " Friendly Brothers," consisting of three knots. The members are elected by ballot, and are free in London, Dublin, and Bath. The subscription is three guineas per annum ; but an additional charge is made for newspapers, publications, &c. Stages also set out from the York-House every day for Lon- don. This hotel is stored with a profusion of silver plate for the service of its visitors. A catch-club is likewise held here. FROM LONDON TO BATH. 35 Some to the York-Hotel resort, And drown their cares in sparkling port, For recreation seeking ; There talk of politics and dress At length, grown weary of excess, Break up when day is breaking. The Subscription-House also, at York-Buildings, is considered equal to any establishment of the kind in England. It is founded upon the plan of similar in- stitutions in London ; and the members are elected by ballot. The terms are six guineas and a half yearly. Newspapers, &c. are furnished in abundance for the use of the subscribers. Mr. Knubly is the pro- prietor. D 2 EPITOME OF ANCIENT AND MODERN BATH : A PRELUDE TO THE WALKS THROUGH THE CITY. BATH, to the most fastidious admirer of taste and elegance, can scarcely be refused the claim of being one of the most fashionable and supe- rior places of resort out of the Metropolis of England. Its first glance upon the mind of the visitor is truly enchanting; and upon a more minute investigation of its classic buildings, and picturesque scenery, it still fastens with rapture and delight upon the attentive spectator ; but even, when quite au fait with all its attrac- tions comforts cleanliness its variety of amusements its well-managed police the re- storative quality of its baths and the efficacy of its waters, which this Epitome of the Beau Monde affords, not only to the rich declining valetudinarian, but to the highest votary of fashion, BATH, taken for " all in all," almost bids defiance to meet with "its like again !" EPITOME OF BATH. 37 Sweet BATH ! the liveliest city of the land, Where health and pleasure ramble hand in hand, Where smiling belles their earliest visit pay, And faded maids their lingering blooms delay ; Delightful scenes of elegance and ease, Realms of the gay, where every sport can please ! In describing the above splendid city as it now is, it may be naturally expected, that in descanting upon the virtues of its springs, and the efficacy of its baths, it must be impossible to pass over its ANCIENT HISTORY without retaining some small portion of its traditionary account, however romantic and delusive it seems, if not altogether viewed, at the present period, as totally fabulous. This might prove a most ex- cellent subject for the investigation of modern students, who have a taste * for exploring the hidden stores of antiquity, and who are in want of employment to kill time; but our " WALKS THROUGH BATH" are of so extensive and diver- sified a nature, embracing such numerous, more profitable, and entertaining objects, that our limits prevent us from observing little more, in this place, than whether the City of Bath is of Roman or British origin the most learned his- torians are at a loss to decide, however anxious the true BATHONIAN is to insist upon the latter as being the fact : but poetic invention, it should seem, has given to Bladud, the Sage, the first # " Who on a purblind antiquarian's back, A founder'd, broken-winded hack, Rides out to find old farthings, nails, and bones On darkest coins the brightest legends reads, On tracdess copper sees imperial heads, And makes inscriptions older than the stones." 38 EPITOME discoverer of the hot water, and made him the founder of the city. It has occupied the atten- tion of LELAND and SELDEN : and the healing and restorative qualities of the Bath waters is thus asserted to have been first ascertained, from the following fragment of ancient records : " Bladud, eldest son of Lud Hudibras (then King of Britain, and the eighth from Brute), having spent eleven years at Athens in the study of the liberal arts and sciences, came home a loathsome leper, and for that reason was shut up, that he might not infect others. Impatient of his confinement, he chose rather a mean liberty than a royal restraint, and contriving his escape in disguise, went very remote from his father's court into an untravelled part of the country, and offered his service in any common employment, probably thinking he was less likely to be discovered under such reduced cir- cumstances than greater; he therefore entered into service at Swainswick, a small village three miles from that city, where his business (among other things) was to take care of pigs, which he was to drive from place to place, for their ad- vantage in feeding upon beech-masts, acorns, haws, &c. the hills thereabout then abounding with such trees, though now few of the two former remain : yet there is a hill close upon the south part of this city that still retains the name of Beechen-cliff, though there is scarcely a beech- tree left upon it. " Here the rising sun/ breaking through the clouds, first saluted the Royal herdsman with its comfortable beams; and while he was addressing himself to the glorious luminary, and praying OF BATH. 39 that the wrath of heaven against him might be averted, part of the drove of pigs, as if seized with a frenzy, ran down the side of the hill into an alder-moor, till they reached the spot of ground where the hot springs of Bath now boil up, and from thence returned covered with black mud. The Prince being of a thoughtful turn, and very solicitous to find out the reason why the pigs that wallowed in the mire in the summer to cool themselves, should do the same in winter, observed them further, and following them down, at length perceived a steam to arise from the place where the swine wallowed. Making his way to it, he found it to be warm ; and this satisfied him, that for the benefit of this heat the pigs resorted thither, and after a while became whole and smooth from their foul scurfs and eruptions, by their rolling about in the warm mud. Upon this he considers within him- self why he should not receive the same benefit, by the same means ; he tries it, and succeeds ; and when he found himself cured of his leprosy, declared who he was. His master was not apt to believe him at first, but at length did, and went with him to court, where he was owned to be the king's son, and, after his father's death, succeeded him in the government; and then, in gratitude, made these baths."* * But what is surprising, no mortal e'er view'd Any one of the physical gentlemen stew'd. From the day that king Bladud first found out these bogs, And thought them so good for himself and his hogs, NOT ONE OF THE FACULTY EVER HAS TRIED These excellent waters to cure his own hide ; Though many a skilful and learned physician, With candour, good sense, and profound erudition, 40 EPITOME This singular and curious fragment thus concludes, " that when these works were com- pleted, Bladud gave himself up to ingenious studies, which he pursued with so much assi- duity, that he at last invented wings to fly with ; but these not being quite so safe as the modern balloons, in one of his flights he unfortunately fell upon a pinnacle of a temple which he had founded to Minerva, in Bath, tumbled instantly to the ground, and, to the great grief of his subjects, broke his neck, after a reign of twenty years." However romantic and fabulous the above account appears, till within these last eighty years, it seems, it was the positive belief and creed of every staunch native of Bath.f It appears probable then, that BATH owed its foundation to the Romans, and that it was erect- ed under the reign of Claudius, in the middle of Obliges the world with the fruits of his brain, Their nature and hidden effects to explain! t In the Rev. Mr. Warner's History of Bath, in allusion to the above circumstance, he has the following note : " In a manuscript of Mr. Wood, the architect, communica- ted to me ten years ago, by the Ilev. Dr. Ayscough, of the British Museum, the following certificate occurs, written at the foot of the above traditional account, seemingly drawn up to be signed by the principal inhabitants of Bath. ' We, whose names are hereunder written, natives of the city of Bath, having perused the above tradition, do think it very truly and faithfully related, and that there is but one material circumstance omitted in the whole story, which is, the grate- ful acknowledgment Bladud made to his master ; for, it is said, the king richly arrayed him, made him a knight, and gave him an estate to support him in all his dignity. As witness our hands, this 1st day of November, 1741.' " OF BATH. 41 the first century, who made a complete conquest of this part of Somersetshire. If the honour of discovering these springs did not belong to the Romans, a people so addicted to the use of the bath as an article of health and luxury, it is na- tural they would eagerly embrace the opportunity of indulging their favourite passion, which the thermal waters afforded with so much facility. It is certain they were well known to these war- riors during their residence in Britain, and so much indeed did they value the use of these hot springs, that they selected the low and narrow valley in which they rose, to build a town for their better security. This military station, for in those times it could scarcely be viewed in any other character, is thus described by Mr. Warner, in his voluminous History of Bath: " According to a form usually affected by the Romans on such occasions, it approached to a parallelogram ; swelling out on one side so as to describe an outline somewhat pentagonal, and stretching in length, from east to west, about 400 yards, and 380 yards in the broadest part, from north to south. From subsequent disco- veries, these walls appear to have been twenty feet above ground in height; and, in thickness, sixteen feet at the base, and eight at the summit; strengthened with five towers, rising at the angles, and having four portce, or entrances, facing the cardinal points, which were connected with each other by two grand streets, dividing the city into four parts, and intersecting each other at the centre." Some of the above walls alluded to are still standing, and denominated 42 EPITOME as the " Borough Wall:"* and, the Old City, it is said, was ten or twelve feet lower than the present one. It also received from the Romans the appropriate name of v$r 0e^a, or Warm Waters ; Thermae Sudatae, Aquae Culidae, Aquae Solis, or simply Balnea; while it was called Akemanrus Ceaster, i. e. the city of valetudina- rians, by the Saxons. The Britons designated it as Caer Baden; or, the City of Bath: and Caer yn ennaint twymyn; or, the City of the Hot-Bath. There is little doubt but Bath was much dis- tinguished by its elegance in the time of the Romans ; which may be collected from the ves- tiges of Roman magnificence, discovered in dig- ging at various times for the foundations of new buildings, as well as deciding that it has experi- enced various revolutions, and been the resi- dence of several kings. But our limits prevent us from following up their successions. Suffice to observe, that copper and brass coins of Nero, Adrian, Trajan, Antoninus, &c. have been found ; also several portions of sculpture, particularly the head of a bronze statue, in fine preservation, in 1727, successively assigned to a statue of Apollo or Minerva. Several rough-hewn stone coffins, and pieces of coin of the Saxon kings, Roman baths, sudatories, &c. In 1790, in laying the foundation of the new Pump-Room, in Stall-Street, a great variety of Roman antiqui- ties were also discovered. Indeed, it is urged, * A.t the back of the Grove-Tavern, contiguous to the market, part of the old wall and the eastern gate are to be traced. OF BATH. 43 that Apollo and Minerva were regarded as the patrons of these springs, and a magnificent tem- ple had once been erected on this spot. In 1793, near Sidney-Place, a sepulchral altar was found, almost perfect. The whole of these antiquities, found at various periods, have been very properly deposited, by the Corporation, for the inspection of the curious, in a small build- ing* at the end of Bath-Street. To render this account of the ancient history of Bath as concise as possible, we shall con- clude by observing, that, after the Romans quit- ted Bath, it sunk in point of grandeur; but, in the time of the Saxons, it was a place of some note. Richard I. gave it a charter, and the im- munities of a free borough. As early as 26 EDWARD I. Bath returned two members to parliament; but, in the first and second years of EDWARD II. the inhabitants de- clined the honour of representation, as being too expensive. Queen ELIZABETH, in 1590, granted a charter to Bath as a body corporate and politic, and declared it a city of itself; and, in 1794, his present Majesty also granted them a new charter, with an extension of privileges. In quitting the above slight sketch of the an- tiquity of this splendid City, the reader's more immediate attention is now claimed to that pe- riod, from whence MODERN BATH may date * Minute and learned accounts have been published upon these fragments by the Rev. Mr. Warner, the late Governor Pownall, S. Lysons, Esq. F.R.S. Keeper of the Records in the Tower ; and a small manuscript quarto is also to be seen in this repository, written by John Cranch, and presented to the Corporation, upon these doubtful subjects. 44 EPITOME its FASHIONABLE ORIGIN, RlSE, and PROGRESS, up to its present acme of elegance and greatness. It appears, that, about the year 1670, Bath was of no importance whatever, and merely the resi- dence of a small number of shopkeepers and mechanics; increasing occasionally by a few families of rank, and valetudinarians who came for the benefit of the waters. The houses were far from respectable; and, in fact, there were but two capable of receiving persons above the middling stations of life. Indeed, in the year 1700, it is asserted, that the admirers of the " light fantastic toe" did not exceed ten couple; and that only one house could boast of having sashed windows; nor was cleanliness then one of its most prominent features; and its salubrity, which i= now the theme of almost every visitor, was also much injured from the want of a com- mon sewer. BATH, at this time, could not boast of a ball-room, or any other place of amusement ; and the bow ling-green, open and exposed as it was, the most convenient spot for parties to dance upon. Perhaps it might be only fair to presume, that FASHION, at this period, was not to be seen with 50 bold a front, nor exactly so transparent as the improvement of more modern times have introduced and sanctioned : Whilst many a close sedan convey'd its freight Of naked charmt to Ramrod's room of state, Now, now-white botomt fascinate the eye, Swelling in all the pride of nudity : The firm round arm, soft cheek, and pouting lip, And backt ezpos'd below the jutting hip : To these succeed dim eyes, and wither' d faces, And pucker' d necks, as rough as shag-green cases ; OF BATH. 4'j Bat whose kind owners, bon'riof Ban*d's hafl, Bcnevolrfldjtbowtbekfia^aa.' REBKLLIOX iv BAT*. Very little alteration occurred for some years, until the Duke of Beaufort became the patron of it amusements, and who was looked upon as the first master of the ceremonies, in collecting the company together at the Town Halt His Grace introduced a Captain- Webster to over the assemblies; but g*miug was so the rage among all ranks at Bath, that it took the lead over every other species of What thanks to the Gtj of Bath then at Froai aD who thb patriot amiai pane: For in no place Is pnctb'd to wdl, awl so wdL Her *j and her means fat praaMting of c AXIVC ! And CAio, no donbt, b of What trae pdbfic spirited people are here, Who far that very parpoar coax e*Yy year! ABeaiirila* the only trade to ] e tafcject to fid. Bat GAMIVC'S a basinest will ever prerafl; Bead es, *tb the only good way to ninairnri We aaijgnhon withoat it thrash fife, I- Bat then IDS with people THAT VOEOBT At this jmsctare Mr. NASH first visited the above City. He was well received by the gentry ; lived upon very intimate terms with Captain ; and, at his death, as if by one general be took upon himself the reins of go- it, and began to superintend every thing connected with the amusement* of the City. 46 EPITOME The band of music, consisting only of five in- different performers, played in the Grove, under some large trees ; but the physicians, at length, prevailed on Mr. NASH to remove the music to the Pump-Room, as a means of restoring the spirits of the valetudinarian. This, it appears, was the origin of the band performing in the latter place; and which has been continued to. the present period, without any material alteration. This band was paid by the contribution of strangers: but, upon the company increasing, Mr. NASH procured seven performers from London, and they were permit- ed to play in the Old Cross Bath Pump-Room, in order to put them upon a more respectable footing. The first ball-room in Bath, it seems, was erected, as a matter of speculation, by a Mr. Harrison, a young tradesman from London, at the north end of the Lower Assembly-Room, who, finding his visitors daily increase, was in- duced to build a card-room. Upon some exac- tions being made by Mr. Harrison displeasing to his visitors, they applied to Mr. NASH to procure another place of resort. This request was soon put into execution; and, at the expense of Mr. Theyr&, on the walks, (where York-Street now stands ;) and Mrs. Lindsey, a singer of conside- rable repute, was selected to conduct it. These amusements were well managed at both of the rooms ; and the balls were held alternately on Tuesdays and Fridays, beginning at six o'clock and ending at eleven. Upon the death of Harrison, Mrs. Hayes, the sister of Mrs. Lindsey, became tenant of those OF BATH. 47 rooms ; and, in consequence of which, all oppo- sition was at an end, and impositions were again practised upon the company. This complaint was, at length, removed upon the death of Mrs. Lindsey ; and NASH, with much discernment and good policy, prevented any intimacy, in future, between the proprietors of the rival ball-rooms, to the injury of the visitors. Mrs. Hayes becoming very rich, a nobleman, to mend his fortune, it appears, felt no sort of degrada- tion in becoming her husband. At this period, in BATH, it was a subject of much conversation, that a lodging-house was kept by a duke;* a gaming-table by a lord ;f and wine was sold by an archdeacon. f The above instances were well- known facts. Till within the last eighty years, BATH was confined principally within its ancient walls, in- cluding only the parishes of St. Peter and Paul, St. James, and St. Michael, covering about the space of fifty acres of ground : but owing to its vast overflow of company, which continued yearly to increase, and the want of residences to contain the visitors becoming so apparent, a few spirited architects, masons, and carpenters, as- sisted by some persons of rank and property, anxious to remedy so generally felt an evil, en- tered into a variety of speculations to produce such an effect. Improvement was, therefore, the order of the day; and, to render BATH still more attractive in the eyes of the upper circles of society, as well as to majte its Duke of Chandos. t Lord Hawley. Archdeacon Hunt. 48 EPITOME accommodations superior .to every other place of fashionable resort in the kingdom, new streets were scarcely planned but erected almost with the rapidity of magic; squares, parades, places, and circuses, followed in equal quick succession; encouragement went hand in hand to support so enlarged an undertaking, where convenience was not only a principal study, but where grand- ness of design also marked most prominently the features of the attempt; and, lastly, where elegance and architectural beauty crowned the efforts of those laudable and praiseworthy indi- viduals. Scarcely a situation in Bath, however elevated, has been neglected, where any building might be erected that would add importance to the City, or increase the grandeur of the scale, which is clearly evinced in those houses hang- ing, as it were, over the broad acclivity of Lans- down, which rises to the north. The houses are all built of the beautiful Oolite, or free-stone, and, from their pale yellow clean appearance, produce an uncommonly interesting effect; but, to the eye not accustomed to such uniformity, it feels impressed with their magni- ficence and splendour. With the addition of the parishes of Walcot and Bathwick, to which no distinction can now be scarcely witnessed, the connexion being so complete, and the buildings having multiplied so astonishingly, that it may be said of BATH, it has not only thickened in breadth, but it has also stretched so far, that at the present period (1819) it measures nearly one mile and three quarters in length, containing a population of 50,000 souls. It undoubtedly must prove a great source of gratification, if not OF BATH. 49 laudable pride to the natives of Bath, that within the remembrance of a few fleeting years, upon those very green fields the pastime and pleasure of their boyish days, and also in climbing those hills, whether in pursuit of exercise, or to enjoy the delightful prospects which so often present themselves to their enraptured sight, are now all vanished in the metamorphose of beholding splendid mansions, &c. risen in their stead ; and the once straggling suburbs now closely filled up, and enveloped as it were in the very heart of the city. Admiration, in contemplating and appreciating this increasing scene of magnifi- cence, feels at a loss whether to give the palm to the spirit of the builders the liberality in employing such immense capitals or to the great patronage and support of the nobility and gentry. But while this spirit of enterprise and speculation existed towards the northern side of the city, it would be unjust to omit, that the valuable tracts of land which were situated on the other side of the town were not suffered to remain in a dreary and barren state. The late Sir William Pulteney, anxious to keep pace with the general design, namely THE IM- PROVEMENT OF BATH, and possessing the true spirit of emulation and rivalry even to exceed the other part of the city, erected a bridge of communication, (called after his name,) and held out such encouragement to builders, that a NEW TOWN might almost be said to have been produced from his exertions. Possessing also the advantages of rough stone being dug from his own contiguous hills, and being in the immediate neighbourhood of excel- 50 KF1TOME lent quarries of free-stone, his plans were pro- secuted with redoubled vigour and rapidity, and he lived to see the most elegant and capa- cious street, finished in Bath, as well as several elegant ones adjoining it. His daughter, the late Countess of Bath, also, with becoming zeal, furthered the speculating design of her parent ; and the Earl of Darlington (to whom those estates devolved) seems to hold out the same spirit of enterprise and improvement that cha- racterized the laudable efforts of his two noble predecessors. Not a month, it should seem, passes over without the commencement of new buildings in some part of BATH ; and, in addi- tion to the erection of a new church at Bath- wick, which is a most interesting piece of archi- tecture, and a very great ornament to this part of the suburbs, the ground for another church, it is said, is also marked out near James- Street, besides the plans of new squares, streets, &c. It has however been urged, for a number of years past, that BATH, like most other fashion- able places of resort, was likely to experience an excess of buildings, and that, ultimately, ruin would fall upon the various speculators in thus employing their capital; but this prophecy, up to the present time, has proved nothing more than visionary conjecture ; and, on the contrary, houses have been scarcely finished, when purchasers have appeared, and tenants not been found wanting. The following anecdote, in illustration of the above fact, is worthy of remark : In the year 1790, a gentleman, conspicuous for the great botanical taste he had displayed in his garden in the suburbs, was suddenly ordered to OF BATH. 51 quit this scene of his amusement and delight to make room for a building lease ; in the heat of his mortification and anger, and giving vent to his wounded feelings, he wrote the following epigram: Ye men of BATH, who stately mansion? rear, To wait for tenants from the devil knows where ; Would you pursue a plan that cannot fail, Erect a mad-house, and enlarge your gaol. This epigram called forth the following appo- site reply : Whilst crowds arrive, fast as our streets increase, And our GAOL only proves an empty space ; Whilst health and ease here court the grave and gay Madmen find fools alone will keep away. It is asserted as a fact, that, at the period the above reply was made public, not a single prisoner was to be found within the walls of the gaol, and the sheriff (C. Philpot, Esq.) had, in consequence, ordered the doors of the prison to be thrown open. Bath is not alone indebted to the erection of new buildings for improvement, which is evident, from an act of parliament having been procured in 1789, to enable the commissioners to widen and render more convenient many parts of the Old City, which has not only been acted upon with great skill and propriety, but reflects much credit upon the Corporation for their anxious endeavours to let no improvement be neglected, that could add comfort or give increased splendour to the City of Bath. A grand and spacious square, opposite the South Parade, has also been planned by Earl Manvers, and in some degree begun, and which E2 52 EPITOME cannot fail, when completed, of being a great ornament to this part of Old Bath, and rival some of its most magnificent structures. The following poetic description of BATH, written by the eloquent and feeling Mr. PRATT, nearly 20 years ago, is another convincing proof of the rapid increase of the buildings, squares, &c. at that period; and the comparison still holds good in 1819: BATH, how fair wert them to view, When last I said, dear Bath, adieu ! When, in the language of the beau, 1 tendered thee my D. I. O. ! Fair were the hills that topt thy scene, And fair the groves that smil'd between. A CRESCENT grac'd thy hairy brow ; A CIRCUS bound thy zone below j And blithe as Eden in its May, Nature, with all her train, at play, Were seen distinct ; the frolic gales Sporting with beauty ill the vales ; While temp'rance, to Hygeia giv'n Crown'd with roses fresh from heav'n ; Their odours dropping from her wings, Shed balm into thy healing springs ; While all that rais'd life's drooping powers, Were guided by the sober hours ; There regulated dame and play, And scatter'd blessings o'er the way. Such wert thou when I saw thee last, Some twenty fleeting summers past, But now, so mighty art thou grown, Thy head so large, thy trunk so swoln, Thy legs and arms so long and wide, And such an air of city pride ; Thy sides so blackened by the smoke, Thy streets so crammed, thy views so broke ; By upstart buildings, perch'd on high, Like pigmies aiming at the sky j OF BATH. 53 Vapour that respiration clogs, And all the family of fogs ; And modern ruins all a-row, And winds above, and dust below, And London fashions rattling down To make thee yet more overgrown, And well-bred dinnerings at seven, And sipping coffee at eleven ; And sandwiches at noon or night, And dames, at noon of day, in white, Shewing their shapes to all the men Up Milsom-street, and down again; Pacing the smooth parades in crowds, Like shadows folded in their shrouds j Yet shades that prove the substance true, For each fair limb's betray'd to view, And though the earth the drapery reaches, 'Tis but a kind of muslin breeches, Tight e'en as buck-skin on the beau, With here and there an airy flow, As waves the linen to the breeze, O times of freedom and of ease ! And after thus they blow about, They leave the even of a rout ; Then, hissing hot, retire to bed ! And rise at noon of day, half dead ! In short, thou art so LONDONIZ'D, So over-built, and over-siz'd, That, my old friend, I scarcely knew, Since last I said, dear BATH adieu! Yet, if with this increase of height, And bulk, thou art so good as great ; If thou more largely can dispense Thy streams to genius, virtue, sense ; If from those streams more copious flow The balms that soften human woe : Or if they offer prompt relief To pallid sickness, paler grief; Or give to pity's gentle eye The melting beam of charity ; Or to the trembling nerves impart The tone that gives the cheerful heart ; 54 EPITOME And if from thy augmented wealth The poor find bread, the affluent health ; And faded sorrow at thy springs Removes the malady it brings : Then, though thy charms were all destroy'd, Though hosts of artists were employ'd, To seize the remnant of thy bowers, Usurp the fragrant realms of flowers ; Though the white mason should displace The varied grounds of ev'ry grace, Where now thy tender blossoms blow, And daisies shoot, and hawthorns grow, Rob e'en thy gardens of their pride, And spread the vernal ruin wide, Till e'en the firs that edge the scene Should yield their everlasting green, And disembowell'd quarries dark CHANGE TO A TOAVN thy ALLEN's park ; Another CRESCENT crowd thy hill, And hid in clouds another still, Another CIRCUS on another, Staring and wond'ring at each other ! Till when I next my visit pay Brick, stone, or mortar, block my way, I'd bicl thee build from street to street, Till LUD'S and BLADUD'S cities meet. The situation of BATH is low ; but, notwith- standing, the air is considered very salubrious ; and the inhabitants, generally, possessing good health and longevity. It stands in a fruitful valley, in the hundred of Bathforum, in the north-east part of Somersetshire, and is sur- rounded by an amphitheatre of hills of con- siderable height, which prove a fine shelter from the north-easterly winds, and is only open to the west. It also abounds with most excellent springs, the water of which is conveyed by leaden pipes into the houses of the city. Bath OF BATH. 55 is south-west 67 miles distant from Oxford ; 39 from the city of Gloucester ; 36 north-west from Salisbury ; 19 from Wells; 80 from Exeter; 13 from Bristol; and 107 miles from London. The Avon, which passes close to the city, is navigable for barges to and from Bristol ; and by the Kennet and Avon canal, in conjunction with the Thames navigation, there is a direct communi- cation by water to the metropolis. BATH is under the jurisdiction of a mayor, recorder, 10 aldermen, and 20 common council- men, a chamberlain, and a town-clerk ; two sheriffs and two chief constables are annually chosen from the common council ; and the mayor and two justices are also selected from the aldermen: but, upon the renewal of the charter, in 17. ( )4, the justices were increased to the number of nine. The sum of 1000 per annum is allowed the mayor to support the dig- nity of his office. The body of chairmen, con- sisting of upwards of 300 in number, are all sworn in as constables, the better to aid the \\ell-directed police, which Bath has to boast of over every other place in the kingdom. It re- turns two members to parliament, which are chosen by the corporation ; and, beingjoined with Wells, forms a bishopric, and is called the dio- cese of Bath and Wells. The corporation, it appears, has the gift or patronage of the rectory of Bath, with Lyncomb and Widcombe appen- dant : also the mastership of St. John's Hospital and the rectory of Charlcombe, and the master- ship of the Grammar-School; but which are of inferior importance. 56 EPITOME In a poem, written by an elegant female/ called, " A DESCRIPTION OF BATH," the fol- lowing lines, on its healthy situation and the re- storative qualities of its waters, occur: " If but one leper cured made Jordan's stream, In sacred writ, a venerable theme ; What honour to thy sov'reign water's due, Where sick by thousands do their health renew ! "The min'ral steams which from the baths arise, From noxious vapours clear the neighb'ring skies; When fevers bore an epidemic sway, Unpeopled towns, swept villages away ; While death abroad dealt terror and despair, The plague but gently touch'd within their sphere. " Bless'd source of health ! seated on rising ground, With friendly hills by nature guarded round ; From eastern blasts and sultry south secure, The Ain's balsamic, and the SOIL is pure!" BATH, in the reign of Richard I. was a place of considerable trade; and much intercourse, it appears, took place at that time with Bristol, in the articles of silk, cloth, &c. and numerous barges, laden with various commodities, were employed upon the Avon. In the fourteenth century, the woollen trade made its appearance at Bath with some vigour; but, in the reign of Henry VIII. it was viewed as one of the first woollen towns in the west of England, and had three companies established in the city of the weavers, tailors, and shoemakers. The woollen trade continued to flourish in Bath during the seventeenth century; and, at the restoration of Charles II. in the parish of St. Michael, no less * The late Mrs. CHANDLER. OF BATH. 57 than sixty broad looms were employed. But, owing to the introduction of machinery and other causes, it completely dwindled away; and, as if manufactures or trade, carried on upon a large scale, were considered inimical or injuri- ous to a fashionable place of resort, like BATH, it appears that even the mere resemblance of it has been completely done away, within the last fifty years, by the prohibition of the following trades from walking in procession, decorated with their regalia, which had been an annual custom ever since the fifteenth century. The trading importance, therefore, of the tailors, cordwainers, plasterers, masons, joiners, mercers, upholsterers, butchers, and bakers, was com- pletely annihilated; and, by a legal decree, de- clared the privileges they had hitherto assumed were usurped and unfounded. It has, however, been thought that commerce may, in some de- gree, revive, owing to the canal which has been made from BATH to Bristol; and that various heavy articles, such as iron, copper, &c. might pass through the City from Wales, instead of going a circuitous and hazardous voyage to the metropolis ; and, in return, BATH might supply Wales with those commodities which are sent from London. The trade of BATH is, therefore, now confined exclusively to retail custom; and dependent entirely upon the caprice of fashion, or the mere home consumption of the City and its neighbourhood. Tradesmen ! a set of vulgar swine, Crutches for a fortune in a deep decline ; Lo ! what a tradesman's good for, and lo all, A wooden buttress for a tott'ring wall ! PINDAR. EPITOME But, however tlie importance of traffic may be viewed as a secondary consideration, and placed, as it is, in the back-ground, it is evident that the learned and other professions are not only prominent but numerous in the extreme. In the healing art alone, the various " GUIDES" distinctly name thirty-one physicians, thirty-two surgeons, sixteen apothecaries, eight dentists, and eight chemists. As we all came for health, (as a body may say,) I sent for the doctor the very next day, And so, as I grew every day worse and worse, The doctor advised me to send for a nurse, And the nurse was so willing my health to restore, She begg'd me to send for 'A few doctors more; For when any difficult work's to be done, Many heads can despatch it much sooner than one ; And I find there are doctors ENOUGH in this place, If you want to consult in a dangerous case ! Here are also six architects; teachers of vari- ous languages, thirteen; dancing-masters and academies, ten ; and professors of music, upon various instruments, forty : For in every science, in ev'ry profession, We make the best progress at years of discretion ! Of that useful class of society (and no de- scription of men can possibly be of more im- portance in a place of fashion) there are five bankers; and, as a convincing proof that "great folks" have neither time nor industry to manage their own affairs, employment, it should seem, is found in BATH for five barristers, five con- veyancers, and for twenty-nine ATTORNIES ! but, among the numerous comforts and couveni- OF BATH. 59 ences specified and promulgated in the above Guides, there are no mention made either of patent coffins or undertakers! The healthful state of the climate, it is presumed, renders it impossible to get a living at the above trade, as a distinct business. PRINCIPAL INNS. Bath has to boast of most excellent inns for the reception of company; the following may be reckoned as the most conspi- cuous, from which the mail and several other stage-coaches start. YORK-HOUSE, York -Buildings. Messrs. Lucas and Reilly. WHITE-HART, Stall-Street. Messrs. Wood- house and Co. WHITE-LION, Market-Place. Mr. Arnold. CASTLE, Northgate-Street. Mr. Temple. LAMB, Stall-Street. Mr. Banks. GREYHOUND, Market-Place.Mr. May. ANGEL, West gate- Street. Mr. Rose. FROMONT and Co.'s Coach-Office. Market- place. CHRISTOPHER, Market-Place.Mr. Cook. GOLDEN-LION, Horse-Street. Mr. Prince. LODGING-HOUSES. In this respect, Bath rises superior to almost every other place of public resort in the kingdom. Lodgings are not only very numerous, but are distinguished for the elegance, convenience, and comfort, which they afford the visitors. In the course of a walk of five or ten minutes about the City, after the arrival of a family, suitable apartments may be procured, with the utmost ease, the prices vary- ing according to the situations of the house, the number of rooms, &c. 60 EPITOME BOARDING-HOUSES. -There are also several excellent places of this description within the City of Bath, for the accommodation of those visitors who are anxious to confine their expen- diture within certain limits. EATING-HOUSES, or Cooks' Shops, which are so numerous in London, are not to be found in Bath ; throughout the whole City, there are not above three in number, and those with infe- rior accommodation. The visitors, in general, are of too high a cast to encourage such sort of pauvre restaurateurs. Several of the public- houses have good ordinaries. NEWSPAPERS. Four of these vehicles of public information are published weekly in Bath, under the following titles : The Bath Journal, Bath and Cheltenham Gazette, Bath Chronicle, and the Bath Herald; but whose columns par- take niore of a fashionable and miscellaneous nature than of any original political angry tone. BATH has also its " PENNY POST," which proves of great convenience to the visitors. THE PUBLIC LIBRARIES are under the direc- tion of the following persons : Messrs. Meyler and Son, close to the Great Pump- Room. Mr. Godwin, Milsom-Street. Mr. Duffield's, ditto. Mr. Upham's, on the Walks. Messrs. Barrett and Sons, Bond-Street. Mr. Gibbons, Ar gyle- Street. Mr. Sims, North Parade. These places of rational entertainment are well supplied with the London and provincial newspapers, &c. and great varieties of valuable OF BATH. 61 books in the different parts of literature will be found among their collections. The terms are as follow : . 1 10 the year. 1 six months. 15 the quarter. i. 10 7 2 d. 6 two months. 6 the month. G by the week. RIDING-SCHOOLS. When the weather will not permit the ladies and gentlemen to take their rides upon the downs, &c. the above schools, situate in Montpelier-Row and Monmouth- Street, kept by Messrs. Stevenson and Stokes, are very extensive and commodious for taking equestrian exercise. To learn to ride the mana- ged horse, the terms are three guineas for sixteen lessons ; and 5s. 6d. for a single lesson. SEDAN-CHAIRS AND TWO-WHEELED CAB- RTAGES. The former of these vehicles greatly add to the comforts of Bath, in not only securing from annoyance and exposure visitors to the public places of amusement; but, also, in proving a most desirable conveyance for the valetudinarian and invalid, in all sorts of weather, to any part of the City. The chairs, in general, are neat and clean, and free from damp; and are under the perfect controul of the corporation, from whom they receive an annual license. Th following rates are also affixed by the mayor and two justices: 5. d. For carrying one person any distance not exceeding 500 yards 6 Above 500, and not exceeding 1173 yards 1 Beyond 1173 yards, and not exceeding one mile . . 16 Beyond one measured mile, and not exceeding in the whole one mile and 586 yards 2 62 EPITOME Not exceeding one mile 1173 yards 2 6 Not exceeding two measured miles 3 And for every 586 yards beyond 6 Any person may detain the chairmen in every fare, without paying any thing for it, as follows, viz. Minutes. Minutes. In a sixpenny fare .... 10 In a twelvepenny fare. . 15 In an eighteenpenny fare 20 In a two shilling fare . . 25 In half-a-crown fare . . 30 In a three shilling fare 35 And in every other fare or quantity of ground constituting an additional fare, any farther time not exceeding in each additional sixpenny fare, as ahove, five minutes. All fares to be charged double after twelve o'clock at night. And, instead of 500 yards, 300 are only a sixpennv fare on hilly or ascending ground, whether upwards or downwards; but where the fare begins on plain ground, and ends on ascent, or begins on a descent, and ends on plain ground, the chairmen must carry the full space of 500 yards. Chairmen to be paid 6d. for each extra quarter of an hour's waiting. Chairmen demanding more for their fare than they are entitled to, or refusing or declining to carry any fare when called on, or using any abusive or insulting language, shall forfeit ^Os. or be suspended from using their chair for any time not exceeding forty days. The mayor and two justices to direct the measurement of any distances in dispute, the expense of which to be paid by the chairmen, if the distance be less than they charge, and, if more, by the persons they carry. THE POST-OFFICE.^ It cannot be doubted, but this institution is most admirably conducted, when it is recollected that the late Mr. Palmer, the grand projector of the mail-coaches, was a native and resident of Bath. It is situate oppo- site the Abbey Church, in Kingston-Buildings; and where the post arrives at, and leaves Bath for the under-mentioned places, at the following specified times : OF BATH. To AND FROM LONDON, AND PARTS BEYOND. Goes out Every evening (except Saturday) at five o'clock. Comes in Every morning (except Monday) from ten to twelve. To and from Hounslow, Colnbrook, Maidenhead, Reading, Newbury, Hungerford, Marlborough, Calne,Chippenham, &c. Goes out Every evening at five. Comes in Every morning from ten to twelve. To and from all parts of Oxfordshire, Stratford, Warwick, Abingdon, Faringdon, Malmsbury, Swindon, Wootton- Basset, Cricklade, Highworth, Lechlade, Fairibrd, Ciren- cester, Tetbury, Sodbury, &c. Goes out Every morning at nine. Comes in Every evening from four to five. To and from Cornwall, Devon, Wellington,Taunton, Bridge- water, Wells, Somerton, Langport, Tlminster, Chard, Crew- kerne, &c. Goes out Every morning at nine. Comes in Every evening from four to five. To and from Eastbourne, Uckfield, Brighton, Chichester, Petworth, Shoreham, Dorsetshire, Hampshire, Salisbury, Heytesbury, Warminster, Frome, &c. Goes out Every evening at five. Comes in Every morning from nine to ten. To and from the north of Ireland, Wales, Cumberland, Dur- ham, Northumberland, Scotland, Cove and Cork, Michin- hampton, Usk, Abergavenny, Monmouth, Westmoreland, Lancashire, Cheshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Worces- tershire, Herefordshire, Birmingham, Gloucester, Chel- tenham, Stroud, Northleach, Newnham, Berkeley, Newent, Michel-Dean, Colford, Dursley, Wootton, De- vizes, Melksham, Trowbridge, Bradford, &c. Goes out Every afternoon at three. Comes in Every morning from nine to eleven. To and from Bristol, South of Irekiid, Pembrokeshire, Car- marthenshire, Monmouthshire, Glamorganshire, Newport, Caerleon, Chepstow, &c. Goes out Every morning at nine, and every evening at three. Comes in Every morning about ten, and every evening at six. 64 EPITOME The letter-box is closed every evening from five to a quarter before six ; but letters will be forwarded by that evening's mail, on paying Id. if brought before a quarter past five; from that time till the arrival of the Bristol mail 6d. is charged, after which no letter can be received to be forwarded by that post. BATH HARMONIC SOCIETY. This musical institution, which is held every Friday evening, from December to March, at the White Hart Inn, in Stall-Street, is of the most respectable de- scription, and was founded in 1795, by the Rev. M. BOWEN, a gentleman of acknowledged great musical taste. The singing consists principally of glees, catches, &c. Nothing that can offend the most refined ear is suffered to be sung. The members are admitted by ballot. Three guineas for the first season. Their Royal Highnesses the Prince Regent, the Dukes of York and Gloucester, are members ; and his Royal High- ness has conferred the dignity upon the Society of wearing garter-blue ribands. In the season a superb concert and ball is given to the ladies, at Kingston-Rooms. Strangers are admitted twice in the year; but noblemen, gentlemen, and professional men only, are elected as members. Of the kind, it is the first society in England. BATH has the honour to boast of not only being the temporary residence of numerous princes and crowned heads at distant periods, but also of the visits of royalty in more modern times, more frequently than any other city of its size in England. Osric, Offa, Edgar, and most of the princes of the Saxon line; Rufus, the Norman; Henry I. and II. Edward I. II. and III. Henry IV. and VII. Edward VI. and Elizabeth; James I. and Charles I. Richard OF BATH. 65 Cromwell and Charles II. James II. and his queen; Frederick, Prince of Wales, and his con- sort ; the Princess Amelia; his Royal Highness the Prince Regent visited Bath in 1796, and accepted the freedom of the City; and, in 1705, his Royal Highness the Duke of Gloucester, and their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of York, made a temporary residence of Bath; and also in November, 1817, her late Majesty the Queen honoured Bath with her presence; but was suddenly called away by the lamented death of the Princess Charlotte of Wales; but, in the course of three weeks her Majesty return- ed to this elegant City for a short period, and received an address of condolence from the Mayor and Corporation, upon the great loss the nation had sustained in the death of her Royal Highness. In the season, which may be said to be at its height from Christmas to April, it is the opinion of every person who has visited this elegant City, that Bath rises superior to every other place in England, in affording so extensive a circle of polite and well-bred company. The entertainments are also regulated with great pro- priety ; and the variety of them, added to the numerous delightful interesting walks with which it abounds, prevents that degree of sameness which pervades most oilier public places of re- sort. In the morning from the Pump-Room to the Parades the Crescents a stroll alongside the Avon; or, a walk in Sydney-Gardens the inviting level path to the village of Weston visiting the shops libraries exhibitions, &c. A peep at Pryor-Park, Claverton-Down, and F 66 EPITOME, &C. Lansdowu-Hill, &c. &c. After dinner, the Theatre becomes attractive ; or to dash off to the Rooms, where dancing and the card-table tend to finish and fully occupy (almost as nume- rously as Caleb Quotem's variety of callings) tiie time of a fashionable visitor at Bath. 'Tis amazing they find such a number of ways Of employing his thoughts all the time that he stays ! WALKS THROUGH BATH. 67 WALK I. From the YORK HOTEL to Edgnj--Buildings, through Milsom-Strtet, (OCTAGON-CHAPEL,) Bond-Street and Bond -Street -Build ings, Bur km- Street, and Union-Street (the GENERAL HOSPITAL) to Stall- Street into Abbey-Place (the ABBEY and GREAT PUMP-ROOM). Return to Stall-Street (the KING'S, QUEEN'S, and NEW PRIVATE BATHS) through Bath-Street. (CROSS and HOT-BATHS and the EYE INFIRMARY,) Het ling-Court, (ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL and HOSPITAL,) Westgate- Buildings, (BATH AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY,) St. James's (BATH and BATH FORUM FREE-SCHOOL,) Horse- Street, (the OLD BRIDGE). Back to Weymouth- Street, (ST. JAMES'S CHURCH,) Abbey -Gate-Street, (LANCASTLRIAN SCHOOL,) Abbey-Green, Abbey- Street, (KINGSTON BATHS and BATH LITERARY SOCIETY). Kingston-Buildings, (the POST-OFFICE). Returning through Milsom-Street to the YORK- HOTEL. Of all the gay places the world can afford, By gentle and simple for pastime ador*d, Fine balls and^me concerts, fine buildings and springs, Fine walks and fine views, and a thousand fine things, In manners, in dress, in politeness to shine, O BATH ! let the art, let the glory be thine. THE dejeune is scarcely finished, when the first place of attraction that claims the immediate attention of the visitor is the GREAT PUMP- F 2 08 WALKS THROUGH BATH. ROOM; not only, as it were, to announce himself to the good people of BATH, but in order to recognize some intimate friend or acquaintance from the Metropolis, or other parts of the king- dom, in this general place of resort or showing promenade. The GREAT PUMP-ROOM is com- pletely open for the reception of the public, no etiquette of rank being required to obtain an admission; and the only qualification necessary to join the gay throng, without ceremony, is that of a clean decent appearance. On quitting the hotel, on the left, Edgar- Buildings, an elevated respectable terrace, is perceived oppo- site to Milsom- Street ; and what the west end of the metropolis presents to the inhabitants of London, the same elegant appearance of this part of the city operates upon the minds of the visitors of Bath. The similarity of feature is obvious. In the height of the season, Milsom- Street is the promenade of the gentlemen, and the shopping of the ladies : this latter circum- stance gives it a splendid variety : The streets begin to fill, the motley throng To see and to be seen now trip along ; Some lounge in the bazars, while others meet To take a turn or two in Milsom-Street ; Some eight or ten round Mirvan's shop remain, To stare at those who gladly stare again ! It is the very centre of attraction, and till the hour of dinner-time it is the peculiar resort of the beau monde ; and the familiar nod, and the " how do you do?" are repeated fifty times in the course of a morning. The street itself, from its ascent, is elegant and imposing; and, WALKS THROUGH BATH. 09 the houses, particularly on the left from York- Buildings, exhibit considerable architectural grandeur, in consequence of several dwellings being erected under one design. All is bustle and gaiety: numerous dashing equipages passing and repassing, others gracing the doors of the tradesmen; sprinkled here and there with the invalids in the comfortable sedans and easy two- wheeled carriages, all anxious to participate in this active part of Bath, giving a sort of finish to the scene. The shops are tastefully laid out; ca- pacious and elegant; and the addition of "from London," of course, is a complete passport to their excellence and superior articles. In short, Milsom and Bond Streets afford to the utmost extent every thing towards supplying the real or imaginary wants of the visitors: containing libraries to improve the mind musical reposi- tories to enrich their taste and science confec- tioners to invite the most fastidious appetite tailors, milliners, &c. of the highest eminence in the fashionable world, to adorn the male, and decorate and beautify the female, to render the form almost of statuary excelleuce; and posi- tively, as the grand climax of the rapidity of im- provement towards perfection, in making out of an old & complete new face. The denouement is also in point, in having two good banking-houses near at hand to support characters of the above description, who must need so many and frequent supplies to support the arbitrary dictates of fashion. The Octagon Chapel, in this street, is a neat elegant building, It was opened in 1767. The organ is good ; and the altar-piece, painted by Mr.Hoare, representing the Pool of Bethesda, 70 WALKS THROUGH BATH. is not only a fine subject, but reflects great credit upon the talents of the artist. Divine service is performed here at eleven and five every Sunday. The news of the day is also to be acquired at the libraries of Messrs. Godwin and Duffield, whose reading-rooms render a lounge most agreeable and pleasant. On leaving Mil- som-Street, you pass the bank of Messrs. Sir B. Hobhouse, Clutterbuck, Phillott, Lowder, and Phillott, (who draw on Jones, Lloyd, and Co. Lothbury, London,) and get into Bond-Street. It has no thoroughfare for car- riages; is much narrower than Milsom- Street ; and pavement extends all over it. It is similar to Cranbourne-Alley, in London. The shops are extremely elegant, and well furnished: the library and reading-rooms of Mr. Barrett is situated here ; and also the Society for promoting Chris- tian Knowledge. This society, which is a branch of the ancient institution of the one held in Bart- lett's Buildings, Holborn, London, has not only furnished all the public charities and prisons in Bath with Prayer-books, religious tracts, &c. gratuitously; but the poor inhabitants of nume- rous parishes have been also supplied with books to explain the Scriptures, agreeably to the doctrines of the established church. Sub- scriptions are opened at the banks and libraries to extend the views of this Society. C. Lowder, Esq. is the treasurer, one of the firm of the Milsom-Street-Bank. At the end of this street, is Bladud-bank, under the firm of Messrs. Tuff- nell, Collett, Payne, Hope, and Watts, who draw upon Jones and Co. Lothbury, in London. Through a small passage is Bond- Street- Build- WALKS THROUGH BATH. 71 ings, which contains some good houses and shops. On the left is Burton-Street leading to Union-Street. This latter is wide and capacious, and has a good appearance. The progress of the visitor is here animatedly arrested in viewing the GENERAL HOSPITAL, situated at the north- west end of this street, stretching to the corner of Parsonage-Lane ; an institution that reflects the highest credit upon the inhabitants of this City, more especially, from the very liberal and real charitable principles upon which it is found- ed. The residents of Bath only are excluded from partaking of its benefits ; but it is open for the reception of the sick-poor from all parts of England and Ireland, to whom the waters of Bath may be applied with service. The old adage observes, that " charity covereth a multi- tude of sins ;" and upon this construction the celebrated Beau NASH, who had the honour of suggesting the idea of its foundation in 1715, is considered to have wiped off" a number of his failings. In consequence of some difference of opinion, the plan lay dormant till 1738, when it was resumed with vigour by the Right Hon. William Pulteney, afterwards Earl of Bath, un- der whose patronage Mr. Wood, the architect, completed its erection. The first stone was laid by the above nobleman, bearing the follow- ing inscription: " This stone Is the first which was laid in the foundation of THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, July the 6th, A.D. 1738. God prosper the charitable undertaking." The GENERAL HOSPITAL has the appearance 72 WALKS THROUGH BATH. of a substantial mansion, of the Ionic order, and built on the site of the old theatre. It is 100 feet in length, and 90 in depth ; and well calcu- lated to answer all the purposes for which it was designed. It was opened for the reception of patients in 1742 ; but an act of parliament was previously obtained in 1739, declaring the trus- tees a corporate body, under the title of the " President and Governors of the General Hos- pital or Infirmary of Bath." It is worthy of remark, that no partiality is suffered to exist in this charitable institution ; and that the objects of its care are admitted in rotation, as their names appear in the book. It is capable of containing 133 patients. It is supported by voluntary contributions ; and twice a year col- lections are made at the various religious places in Bath. All the free-stone and other materials necessary for its erection were generously sup- plied by the late Ralph Allen, Esq. The Hon. and Right Rev. the Bishop of Gloucester is the president. In order to give publicity to a cha- rity founded upon such very liberal principles, offering assistance to the sick-poor from all parts of the kingdom, the following conditions of admission into the General Hospital are here inserted : I. The case of the patient must be described by some physician or person of skill, in the neighbourhood of the place where the patient has resided for some time ; and this description must be sent, franked or post paid, directed to the Register of the General Hospital at Bath. The age and name of the patient ought to be mentioned in the description of the case ; and the persons who describe it are desired to be particular in the enumeration of the symptoms : so that neither improper cases may be admitted, WALKS THROUGH BATH. 73 nor proper ones rejected, by the physicians and surgeons, who always examine and sign the cases as proper or impro- per, previous to their being laid before the weekly committee. If the patient has any fever upon him, as long as the fever continues he will be deemed improper. Patients with coughs, attended with pain in the chest or spitting of blood, arc improper ; as also those with abscesses or with any ex- ternal ulcers, until such ulcers are healed. From want of attention to the foregoing particulars, and notwithstanding the cautious frequently given by printing the coitditions of admission in the public papers, very imperfect descriptions of cases have been and are still sent, and many patients have been discharged as improper soon after their admission, to the disappointment of the patient thus sent. II. After the patient's case has been thus described and sent, he must remain in his usual place of residence till he has notice of a vacancy, signified by a letter from the Re- gister, accompanied with a blank certificate. III. Upon the receipt of this letter the patient must set forward for Bath, bringing with him this letter ; the parish certificate, duly executed by the minister and parish officers where such patient is legally settled, and attested before two justices for the county or city to which the patient belongs ; and ,,5 caution-money, if from any part of England or Wales ; but, if the patient come from Scotland or Ireland, then the caution-money to be deposited before admission is the sum of 5. IV. Soldiers may, instead of parish certificates, bring a certificate from their commanding- officer, signifying to what corps they belong, and that they shall be received into the same corps when discharged from the Hospital, in whatever condition they are ; and the same is expected from the Go- vernors of the Chelsea and Greenwich Hospitals, respecting their pensioners. But it is necessary that their cases be de- scribed, and sent previously j and that they bring 3 cau- tion-money. The intention of the caution-money is to defray the ex- penses of returning the patients after they are discharged from the Hospital, or of their burial in case they should die there. The remainder of the caution-money, after these 74 WALKS THROUGH BATH. expenses are defrayed, will be returned to the person who deposited it. All poor persons coming to Bath under pretence of getting into the Hospital, without having their cases thus described and sent previously, and leave given them to comc> will be treated as vagrants, as the act of parliament for the regula- tion of the Hospital requires. N.B. If any patient should have the small-pox here, such persons must be removed out of the house, and the caution- money defray the expenses thereof. Likewise, all persons who shall come into the hospital without decent and necessary apparel, must have such necessaries provided out of the cau- tion-money. In this street the Bath and Cheltenham Ga- zette is published every Tuesday evening. On quitting Union-street, in a straight line is Stall-Street, which is but a narrow thorough- fare, although leading to and surrounded with numerous interesting objects. Opposite the White-Hart-Inn is a very handsome stone por- tico, at a small distance from the GREAT PUMP ROOM, for the reception and plying-place of chairs, in order to accommodate the company who frequent this fashionable promenade, as well as to remove the noise of the chairmen. From Stall-Street this portico has an attractive effect; and, in passing under it into Abbey- Place, which has a very extensive broad pave- ment, and surrounded by some elegant shops, the PuMP-RooM appears upon the right, and also the front door (or west end, which is richly ornamented) of the fine venerable ABBEY bursts upon the eye of the visitor. This is the grand entrance to the Cathedral Church of St. Peter and Paul; and in rich canopied niches are the statues of the above patron saints. The window over the above door possesses great richness and WALKS THROUGH BATH. 75 beauty. This ancient pile of architecture is one of the last specimens of the ecclesiastical Gothic. It was founded by king Osric, in 676; but, after falling into a state of great decay, it was begun, in its present form, in the year 1495, in the reign of Henry VII. by Oliver King, bishop of the diocese, in consequence of a pious vision, and completed by Bishop Montague, in the reign of James I. From east to west it is 210 feet in length; and from north to south 126. The breadth of the body and side ailes is 72 feet; and the height of the tower 120, which contains an excellent peal of ten bells! It is a most elegant interesting structure; and viewed as a parochial church, it is without an equal in England. Divine service is read every day at eleven in the forenoon, which is support- ed by voluntary contributions of the company visiting Bath. It has fifty-two windows, and this church was formerly called the " lantern of England." The " Society of Antiquaries" have been elaborate in their description of this abbey; and it has also claimed the peculiar research and investigation of the Rev. Mr. WARNER, who thus interestingly describes its interior: " The eye on entering the church is immediately directed to the roof, singular in its design and beautiful in its execution. This consists of two parts, the nave and the choir. Of these, the former is evidently of later construction than the latter. It is separated from the side aisles by twelve clustered pillars supporting elliptic arches; is of great opening and very flat, the span being only 30 feet 3 inches, and the eleva- tion only 3 feet. The singularity of this piece 76 WALKS THROUGH BATH. of masonry, which sets modern art at defiance, consists in this circumstance that the ribs, which compose the tracery of the ceiling, are the only solid work; the intermediate spaces have been originally cut through and left open, and filled up slightly in after times with common lath and plaster. The roof of the choir rises considerably higher than that of the nave, al- though the groins of the former are greatly the lower of the two. It of course makes a much sharper arch, and exhibits in its spreading ribs a pattern of most beautiful ramification. The choir, which is now fitted up like a common parish church, (with the addition of a throne for the bishop when he visits Bath,) is separated from the nave by a wooden screen, supported by stone pillars, and surmounted by an organ of most exquisite tone. Near the altar-piece is an admirable specimen of architecture in the little monumental chapel of Prior Bird, who died in 1525. This oratory consists of two arched divi- sions, impost, entablature, and octangular but- tresses, all elaborately ornamented with fanciful traceries and other decorations. At the left or south-west angle of the chapel are two ranges of beautiful niches stringing from the impost and terminating with pen-nailes and spires, evidently intended for figures ; at present, however, they have no tenants." 'Tis dreadful ! How reverend is the face of this tall pile, Whose ancient pillars rear their marble heads, To bear aloft its arch'd and pondrous roof! By its own weight made stedfast and immoveable. Looking tranquilly, it strikes an awe WALKS THROUGH BATH. 77 And terror to my aching sight ! The tombs And monumental cases of death look cold, And shoot a chillness to my trembling heart. If the eye is charmed with the superior archi- tecture of the exterior, and the grand appear- ance it displays, how much more is the mind gratified on entering this sacred repository of the dead, in wandering amidst the tombs of so many departed great characters? A pleasing melancholy pervades the frame, and the senses seem lost in a reverie with the surrounding ob- jects. The monuments are numerous, and, in general, admirably executed ; and many of them, for beauty of design and elegance of sculpture, reflect great credit upon the different artists under whose particular care they have been executed. The solemnity of the scene altogether conveys a sublime and wholesome truth, that the observer cannot shrink from, if properly applied, in ope- rating as a useful lesson towards the improve- ment of life from the serious examples before him. The reflection is impressive and awful, that however great in power splendid in for- tune the blessings of health and strength and all the pride and vain-glory of man, in remem- bering that the HERO, who had dispersed armies, reduced cities, and made nations tremble at his nod the TYRANT who had been the terror of his reign the HISTORIAN who had claimed at- tention from his extensive knowledge in handing down to posterity the events of his own and past times, the POET who had inspired with his lays, and breathed out in amorous poesies, the softer ecstasies of love the PLAYER who had strutted and fretted his hour to overwhelm- 78 WALKS THROUGH BATH. ing applause and the STATESMAN, whose ani- mated oratory in defence of his country, had rivetted the attention of an admiring senate that all our consequence and pretensions are in an instant lost sight of by that awful monitor DEATH! General Wade, one of the representatives of the City, in the year 1725, gave a very elegant altar-piece, representing the Wise Men's Offer- ing. It has also a fine-toned organ; and, in addition to the above attractions, its monuments are not only numerous, but of the most interest- ing description; and the chissels of NOLLEKENS and BACON, in several instances, display some exquisite touches of sculptural excellence, as well as the pen of the poet exerted with consi- derable feeling and ability. The admirers of theatrical talent are stopped in their progress through this venerable mansion of the dead by the monument of JAMES QUIN, Esq. which has a striking likeness of this once great actor. It has also under it a mask and dagger, representing Tragedy and Comedy. OB. M,DCC,LXVI. ^Etatis LXXIII. " That tongue which set the table on a roar, And charra'd the public ear, is heard no more : Closed are those eyes, the harbingers of wit, Which spake before the tongue, what Shakspeare writ : Cold is that hand, which living, was stretch'd forth, At friendship's call, to succour modest worth : Here lies JAMES QUIN : deign, reader, to be taught, Whate'er thy strength of body, force of thought, In nature's happiest mould, however cast, To this compkxion thou must come at last. D. GARRICK. Near the entrance from the west door, on a WALKS THROUGH BATH. 79 plain tablet of black marble, encircled with white drapery, with a few musical notes at the top of it, the following lines, by two eminent vocal performers, are placed in remembrance of a great teacher of music, whose talents had so often delighted the refined circles of Bath, and under whose superior tuition the first singers of the age had been completed : O RO 8UPPLEX ET ACCLINIS, &C. Near this place the remains of VENANZIO RAUZZINI, a native of Rome, Distinguished as a vocal performer On the Continent and in England, Whose judicious abilities for 30 years, In conducting the musical department Of this city, Amply gratified the applauding public. And whose ever gracious deportment Conciliated their zealous affections. This tributary memorial Was erected by his affectionate pupils, ANNA SELINA STORAGE AND JOHN BRAHAM, Promoted by their friendship and Grateful respect for professional merit And liberality of sentiment. Aged 62 years. To THE LADIES, the following monument is of the most interesting nature ; and although it may fall to the lot of but few of the fair sex to realize such perfections as are described on this inscription, it nevertheless offers a most laud- able stimulus to them, to " go and do likewise" in order to obtain a similar superior character: " In memory of REBECCA LEYBORNE, Interred at the foot of this pillar, Born June the 4th, 1698. Deceased February 18, 1756. 84 \\ALKS THROUGH BATH. A wiJ'c more than twenty -three years to Rubett Leyboi ue, D.D. (Rector of the Churches of St. Dunstan, Stepney, And of St. Ann's, Middlesex, near London, And Principal of Alban-Hall, in Oxford) Who never saw her once ruffled -with anger, Or heard her utter even a peevish word ; Whether pained, or injured, the same good woman, In whose mouth, as in whose character, Was no contradiction : Resigned, gentle, courteous, affable ; Without passion, though not without sense : She took offence as little as she gave it, She never was or made an enemy ; To servants, mild; to relations, kind; To the poor, a friend ; to the stranger, hospitable ; Always caring how to please her husband, Yet not less attentive to the one thing needful. How few will be able to equal What all should endeavour to imitate !" The name of FIELDING is so attractive to tin- lovers of literature, that any circumstance attached to it cannot fail of claiming great re spect and attention. The following monument is dedicated to the authoress of David Simple:-* " In this city lived arid died SARAH, second daughter oi General Henry Fielding ; by his first wife, daughter of Judge Gould ; Whose writings will be known, As incentives to virtue, and an honour to her sex, When this marble shall be dust. She was born MDCCXIV. and died April MDCCLXVIII. Her unaffected manners, candid mind, Her heart benevolent, and soul resign'd, Were more her praise, than all she knew or thought, Though Athens' wisdom to her sex she taught. The Rev. .Dr. John Hoadly, her friend, for the honour of the dead, and emulation of the living, inscribes this deficient memorial of her virtues and accomplishments. WALKS THROUGH BATH. 81 The remains of the celebrated BEAU NASH lay many years without any monument to record his exertions in favour of the city of Bath, and perhaps he might have been entirely forgotten iiad it not have been for the ingenious and learned Dr. HARRINGTON, who promoted a subscrip- tion for such a purpose, and thus rescued the above HERO OF FASHION from total oblivion. A plain neat monument, with the following in- scription, has been erected to his memory: , " ADESTE O GIVES, ADESTE LUGENTES! HIC SILENT LEGES RICARDI NASH, ARM1G. NIIIIL AMTLIUS IMPERANTIS; QUI DIU ET UTILISSIME ASSUMPTUS BATHONIJE ELEGANTI^E ARBITER EHEU! MORTI (ULTIMO DESIGXATORI) HAUD INDECORE SUCCUBUIT ANN. DOM. MDCCLXI. *TAT. SVJE LXXXVII. BEATUS II.LE QUI SIBI IMPERIOSUs! If social virtue make remembrance dear, Or manners pure on decent rule depend, To his remains one grateful tear, Of youth the guardian, and of all the friend. Now sleeps dominion ; here no bounty flows ; Nor more avails the festive scene to grace, Beneath that hand which no discernment shows, Untaught to honor, or distinguish place." Under this inscription is cut, in marble, the arm of Death striking his dart at a falling crown and .sceptre, with the motto " JEqun put sat munu" A marble monument, finished in Bacon's best style, with the inscription written by Anna Seward, on the north side of the altar, is not only very attractive from these qualities, but G 8*2 WALKS THROUGH BATH. from the recollection of the lady to whom it is dedicated, in being a highly respected public character in Bath. " Near this monument are deposited the remains of LADY MILLER, wife to Sir John Miller, bart. of Batheaston Villa ; she departed this life at the Hotwells of Bristol, the 24th of June, 1781, in the 41st year of her age. " Devoted stone ! amidst the wreck of time, Uninjur'd bear thy MILLER'S spotless name : The virtues of her youth and ripened prime, The tender thought th' enduring record claim. " When clos'd the num'rous eyes that round this bier Have wept the loss of wide-extended worth, O gentle stranger, may one gen'rous tear Drop, as thou bendest o'er this hallow'd earth ! " Are truth and genius, love and pity thine, With lib'ral charity and faith sincere ? Then rest thy wand'ring step beneath this shrine, And greet a kindred spirit hov'ring near." A volume would scarcely suffice to detail the monuments in this venerable abbey, among which will be found, well worthy of notice, those of Mr. Walsh Porter; Dr. Sibthorpe; H. Katen- camp, and Governor Pownal ; the classic Mel- moth ; Sir William Draper, &c. The ABBEY, whenever leisure offers, may be again visited with increased attention and profit. On quitting this receptacle for the dead, but a few yards, of which the lady in ANSTEY'S New Bath Guide, thus expresses herself: Declar'd she was shock'd that so many should come, To be doctor'd to death, such a distance from homt, At a place where they tell you that water alone Can cure all distempers that ever were known! The scene from " grave to GAY " is now WALKS THROUGH BATH. 83 changed with almost the general celerity of har- lequin's bat, and epitaphs and monumental inscrip- tions no longer operate upon the feelings, but are banished for the lively gaiety which the fashion- able throng and music affords to the mind of the spectator upon setting his foot into the Great Pump-Room : Ods-bobs! how delighted I was unawares, With the fiddler T heard in the room above stairs ; For music is whoU'somo, tli<> doctors all think, For ladies that bathe, and tor ladies that drink ; And that's the opinion of Robin, our driver, Who whistles his nags while they stand at the river ; They say it is right that for every glass A tune you should take that the water may pass; So while little Tubby was washing her rump, The ladies kept drinking it out of a pump* The GREAT PUMP- ROOM was originally built under the auspices of Mr. Nash, in 1704; in 1751 it was enlarged; and, in 1780, its hand- some portico, stretching in a northerly direction, was added to it. The elegant western frontis- piece, which is a considerable ornament to the structure, appeared in 1791. The Old Pump- Room was taken down in 170(>, and the present handsome building was erected upon its site, at the expense of the corporation. In 1813 it also received fresh painting, and tasteful improve- ment. It is in length (jO feet; but, including the recesses at the ends of the room, it is 85. In width 46 feet, and 34 high. The interior is set round with three-quarter columns of the Co- * With all due deference to this playful and lively satir- ist, upon inquiry it turns ont that he has exercised his wit somewhat at the expense of truth. G 2 84 WALKS THROUGH BATH. rinthian order, crowned with an entablature, over which is a covering of five feet. The light is conveyed into it by two ranges of windows. A time-piece, given by the late Mr. TOMPTON, is placed in the recess at the east end. A marble statue of NASH, by Hoare, is also seen in the niche contiguous to the above. A gallery for the musicians is erected at the western end; and in the centre of the southern side of the room is the pump, from which the waters issue out of a marble vase ; and on each side is a fire-place. The outside of the building is finished to corres- pond, and upon the architrave the following Greek inscription in letters of gold appear : " APIZTON MEN TAttP," which is an extract from the opening of the first ode of Pindar, and bears the following literal translation: " Water! of elements the best !" By order of the Governors of the General Hospital, the following pathetic inscription is painted in letters of gold upon the pump in the room, from the pen of the late CHRISTOPHER ANSTEY, Esq. THE HOSPITAL IN THIS CITY, Open to the Sick Poor of every Part of the World, To whose Cases these Waters are applicable, (The Pom- of Bath only cxcepted,) Was first established, and is slill supported, by the Charitable Contributions of the Liberal and Humane. " Oh ! pause awhile^ who'er thou art, That drink'st this healing stream ; If e'er compassion o'er thy heart Diffus'd its heavenly beam ; WALKS THROUGH BATH. 85 " Think on the wretch' whose distant lot This friendly aid denies ; Think how in some poor lonely cot He unregarded lies ! " Hither the helpless stranger bring, Relieve his heartfelt woe, And let thy bounty, like this spring, In genial currents flow : " So may thy years from grief, and pain, And pining want, be free : And thou from hcav'n that mercy gain The poor receive from thee." The following lines, written by the ingenious Dr. Harrington, in imitation of Spenser, are framed and glazed, and also hung up near the pump: " ALWHYLE ye drynke, 'midst age and ache ybent, Ah creepe not comfortless besyde our streame, (Sweete nurse of hope ;) affliction's downwarde sente, Wythe styll smalle voyce, to rouze from thryftless dreame ; Each wyng to prune, that shyftythe everie spraie In wytlesse flyghte, and chyrpythe lyfe awaie. " Alwhyle ye lave suche solace may be founde ; " Whenkynde the hand, why 'neath its healynge faynte ? " Payne shall recure the hearte's corruptede wounde ; " Farre gonne is that which feelethe not its playnte. " By kyndrede angel smothe, BETHESDA gave " Newe vyrtues forthe, and felte her troubledde wave." " Thus drynke, thus lave nor ever more lamente, Oure sprynges but flowe pale anguishe to befriende; How fayre the meede that followeth contente ! How bleste to lyve, aud fynde such anguishe mende. How bleste to dye when sufferynge faithe makes sure, At lyfe's high founte, an everlastyne cure!" EDGAR An excellent band of music, during the sea- son, plays from one to half-past three o'clock 86 WALKS THROUGH BATH. every day, in this elegant and spacious room, which is open from an early hour in the morning till four in the afternoon; and, during the time of the performance of the band, the room is well filled with company. The remuneration for drinking the water here is left entirely to the liberality of the visitor; no specific demand being made. To those persons who are fond of bustle and gaiety, this promenade in the Pump- Room will be found highly attractive. In no place in Bath does an hour pass away more agreeably. On quitting this lively scene for Stall- Street, on the left, is the King's Bath. It is a respectable building, and the dimensions of which are 65 feet 10 inches, by 40 feet 10 inches ; and when at its usual height, it contains 346 tuns, 2 hogsheads, and 36 gallons of water. It is extremely convenient for bathing; and on one side is a covering, supported by a handsome colonnade, to shade the bathers from the incle- mency of the weather. It has also two rooms, for ladies and gentlemen, in which are pumps for pouring the hot water on the part affected, instead of immersing the whole body, considered by the physicians as far more salutary in certain disorders. An apartment is also attached, where the water may be used by the patient as an in- jection, which is denominated the " steaming- room:" this mode of application has been found of great service in violent complaints of the in- testines. This bath is about eleven hours in filling : and its heat, by Farenheit's thermometer, 116 degrees; and is kept full, for the accommo- dation of the public, from the earliest time in the morning till noon. WALKS THROUGH BATH. 87 In 1699, a statue of king Bladud was erected in this bath, under which is the following in- scription : Bl,ADUD, Son of LUD HUDIBRAS, Eighth King of the Britons from BRUTE, A great Philosopher and Mathematician, Bred at Athens, And recorded tlie first Discoverer and Founder of these Baths, Eight Hundred and Sixty-three years before CHRIST ; That is, Two Thousand Five Hundred and Sixty-two Years, To the present Year, One Thousand Six Hundred and Ninety-nine. The Queen's Bath, so called after Queen Anne, consort to James I. and is attached to the King's Bath, which is a square of 25 feet, but of a lower temperature, although supplied with water from it through an arch. In the centre of the above bathing places stand the New Private Baths, erected in 1788, belong- ing to the corporation, which possess every com- fort and accommodation that can be desired. The following are the regulations established by the corporation for bathing and pumping in the public and private baths. " A serjeant shall not demand more than threepence for each time of bathing: A guide shall not demand more than one shilling for each time of bathing : A cloth-woman shall not demand more than threepence for each time of bathing. " Pumping in the King's, Queen's, and Cross Baths, 2d. each hundred strokes ; in the private baths, 3d. each hun- dred strokes. " Tht above fees are to be understood so as not to affect people in low circumstances, or servants ; such being allowed to bathe fir sixpence only to the guide, for linen and attendance.