,,; \v, JL JL %^ Mmd Mm THE MYSTERIOUS MABEL LOOMS TODD ■"■■ jiAiiNc a. YUCINICH / L? A !if,P™^SAN DIEGO S£ Lmf^ UJIV^STTY <* CAUFORNIA, SAN DKGQ IA JQIAA, CAUfORNIA VVAYNE S. VUClrtlCH TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS BY MABEL LOOMIS TODD (Mrs. David Todd) LONDON GRANT RICHARDS, Ltd. 1912 Copyrighted in the United States of America by Small, Maynard and Company (Incorporated) Printed in the United States of America by The University Press, Cambridge, U. S. A. 1912 FOREWORD The " skirmishes in Tripoli " alluded to cas- ually by newspapers in late September of 191 1 soon developed into full-fledged war of inter- national significance. To an English friend resident there, the first intimation of trouble came in the early morn- ing of September 26, when, from his summer residence at Shara Shat, he and his family saw unexpectedly arrive in the harbour a two-fun- neled steamer (Dema), laden with arms and ammunition which she began at once to discharge. Next day his little daughter, attending an Italian school in the city, heard a sudden com- motion with much loud talking, in the midst of which the Italian cavasse and one of the Consulate staff came into the school-room, counseling immediate departure of mistresses and children, most of whom embarked at once on the Hercules. During the latter part of that afternoon a three-funneled battleship arrived, her stately approach watched with much excitement by FOREWORD all the inhabitants ; Turkish officers and Arabs, however, expressing the utmost confidence that the Italian reception would be both warm and brief. The Hercules, filled from stem to stern with Italian subjects, sailed next day; and, late on September 28, thirteen battleships came into the harbour, one after the other, in stately line, each proudly flying the Italian flag, and all brought into spectacular relief by brilliant African sunshine lighting the magnificent array with its level westering beams. The sight created a profound impression, not only upon native and Turkish inhabitants, but upon the few remaining Europeans as well. Next day the Turkish soldiers retired to Boumilliana; during the following, a sort of panic ensued among the Maltese, who rushed en masse on board the Castlegarth, — loading esparto in the roadstead, — and thenceforth disappeared from the scene. On October 1 Italians cut the cable, about three miles from shore. Naturally these swift events produced the greatest excitement; consular meetings were held night and day at all hours, advising and counseling the Governor-General, and Arif yi FOREWORD Bey, political agent; but long parleying finally exhausted the Italian Admiral's patience, and October 3 notice was given to all Consuls that bombardment would take place at noon. Many trying even then to flee found that Arab boat- men had drawn their craft up on shore, and refused to take any one oif to any steamer. The wife of our friend, who kept an in- teresting diary of these thrilling events, writes that thereupon " a panic ensued, people rush- ing about the streets as though they had lost their senses." Many sought refuge in their house, — Netherlands subjects, Arabs, Turks, Greeks, indiscriminately, until courtyard, gal- lery and rooms could hold no more. When bombardment finally began the noise was terrific, houses shaking as if in earthquake, refugees crying with grief and terror. Our English friends, however, were not daunted, and going to the Telegraph Company's house on the water front, they obtained from its bal- cony a superb view, remaining until a shell dropped into the sea about twenty yards away, shrapnel began to burst all around and break over them, and it seemed prudent to retreat to the kiosk on their own roof terrace, — slightly more protected, but still offering a vii FOREWORD splendid prospect. At six o'clock firing ceased, when, gathering up the bits of fallen shrapnel (not less than twenty pounds), they retired to their populous rooms below. The following day fire was opened upon Shara Shat with an awful roar of shells trav- eling through the air, followed by the terrific vibration of their bursting. A mistake of the Shara Shat fort in firing upon a torpedo boat supposedly flying a white flag was the imme- diate cause of this second fusillade, which ceased upon explanation — but not until the country house was partially demolished. In the following weeks it was completely looted and left open to all the winds of heaven. During this day the gens d'armes and police who had been on guard were withdrawn, and there was much apprehension that the city would be overwhelmed by the onrushing Arabs. Hassuna Pasha, the Mayor, a Prince of the famous Caramanlis, however, himself patrolled the town all night on horseback, with a few police, keeping at bay the oncoming hordes. Rifle shots and shouts kept sleep from every house. On October 5 a white sheet was hoisted on the Castle flagstaff, the Italians landed, and viii FOREWORD soon it was replaced by a large flag of their country. Safety returned to the harassed in- habitants, and the city was soon being regu- larly patrolled by marines. Later, when Italians blew up the Gil Gursh fort, the city shook to its foundations and our friend's fine collection of Roman antiquities was strewn in fragments on the floor. By the end of October cholera had broken out, which added new terror and confusion. Mosques were filled with poor Arabs from the oasis, ordered evacuated by General Caneva, the Governor. Dead bodies were picked up by carts at morning and evening and carried away for burial. A heavy fight occurred November 10, a day also memorable for the appearance of a great yellow balloon carrying two Italian officers making observations. Next day the Italian King's birthday was celebrated by salutes, " dressed " ship, a shell or two whizzing through the air, and an official reception. The new year saw more battles, and a vast change in the sleepy Tripoli of our memory. Italian soldiers now fill the streets ; horses, car- riages, motor cars (with no speed limit!), offi- cers on horseback, and all the accompaniments ix FOREWORD of modern seaport life have completely changed the old dream-city, now forever of the past. No more at twilight are Arabs sitting in the sand against mosque walls like a line of ghosts in the still evening, waiting for the call to prayer. The " gate of slaves/' one of Tripoli's ancient names, will never more open its por- tals for that picturesque if ungodly trade; dwellers in Ghadames, making business to the heart of Ethiopia all their own, and allied with the fanatical Tuaregs, those unconquer- able " pirates of the Sahara," will have new laws to consider. But in dreaming upon the delicious, sleepy days of past years, the cordial faces of many friends beam from the white city's every arch- way and patio, smile upon us from roof and garden — even from dusky mosque and heaven- ascending minaret. To them all, loved and remembered, English, Turkish, Italian, French, Arab — I dedicate my little story of the now vanished life we knew together, affectionately theirs as well as mine. M. L. T. Observatory House, Amherst, Massachusetts, March, 191 2. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page I Introductory i II Tripoli the Mysterious .... 5 III An Eclipse Trip to Tripoli ... 8 IV Arrival 14 V Thoroughfares 18 VI A Little History 32 VII Tripoli and the United States . . 39 VIII The Pasha's Castle 43 IX Inhabitants, Occupations, Schools . 47 X The British Consulate-General . 55 XI The Roman Arch and Ancient Re- mains 67 XII To the Caves 74 XIII Wells and Gardens 80 XIV Harems and Courtyards .... 87 XV Arab Weddings 92 XVI Wedding Preliminaries .... 103 XVII Another Mohammedan Wedding . 108 XVIII A Jewish-Arab Wedding . . . . 113 XIX The Eclipse of 1900 119 XX Pianura Market 129 xii TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page XXI Bread Market and Caravans . . 134 XXII Music and Musicians 141 XXIII Turkish Exiles and Others . . 146 XXIV Mosques 153 XXV Funerals 162 XXVI An Arab Luncheon 167 XXVII Eclipse Preparations 174 XXVIII The Eclipse of 1905 182 XXIX The Desert 195 XXX B' Salaama 202 Index 209 ILLUSTRATIONS This enthralling though tragic coast of northern Africa Frontispiece PAGE Italian pharmacy 4 Compulsory service in the Turkish army .... 6 Near neighbor to countless sand-blown ruins 12 One's first walk is a revelation of Oriental possi- bilities 18 The two-wheeled araba was a very gay little cart . 22 Pale blue-wash tinted many of the arches ... 24 A great rallying-point . . . was the Turkish fountain 26 Some vague feeling for European boulevard effects 28 From the roof of the French Consulate .... 32 Tajura 34 Camels bathing 38 Houses were shown me where the captives were confined 40 Drill of Arab regiment 42 His Excellency Redjed Pasha, former Governor of Tripoli 44 Turkish and Arab celebration 46 Inky Sudanese abounded 48 A Turkish school for boys 50 xiii ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Bellows . . . exactly like those in use for centuries 52 Sandstone steps worn into hollows by the feet of a hundred and fifty years 56 The seventeen-domed mosque stood out whitely, even in that city of whiteness 64 The most superb relic ... is the four-sided triumphal arch 68 The ruins of Leptis Magna 72 Into the sand of the "Tunis road" we plunged . 74 a. Marabout and palm. b. One of the caves at Ghirgarish 76 Some of the caves of natural origin, others . . . old quarries 78 Every garden had its well 80 Lanes and roads leading out of the city .... 84 Returning sunset drives 86 Many of the harem courtyards were well-paved, the wainscot also of handsome tiles 88 Sudanese village, Tripoli across the bay .... 90 Street of arcades, Castle in background .... 94 Sudanese hut 102 All the instruments were in readiness on the Con- sulate roof-terrace 118 A telegram from Georgia 120 The tiny crescents revealed by its foliage during the partial eclipse 122 a. An anxious mother, b. Straw covers . . . pro- tection to the precious cus-cus 1 30 a. Camel laden with esparto grass, b. By noon the crowd disperses 132 Bread market 134 xiv ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Word came . . . that about three hundred men and camels were just ready for departure . . 138 a. Bales still covered the ground, b. The leader, a racing camel with high Tuareg saddle ... 140 An inflated skin with primitive mouthpiece ... 142 Taking her station against some white wall . . . 144 The Pasha confessed that he was deeply curious about the telescopes 146 One of these . . . was still trying to find out why he was exiled 148 ... his chaotic house, full of curios 150 From any roof terrace in Tripoli a dozen minarets could be seen 152 Where constantly sat a melancholy leper, awaiting possible alms 154 Several imposing officers with yards of sword . . 158 Two domes on the headland, conspicuous as the harbour is entered 162 a. In the garden, Shara Shat. b. On the gallery 164 A homeward ambling camel 172 a. Eclipse preparations, b. A spectral array ... set to catch a shadow 174 Etim Bey, a Turkish exile J 182 The fine Gurgeh minaret . . . was filled with white-robed Moslems, gazing skyward ... 188 Evenly developed all around 192 A string of camels moved off across the illimitable sand 196 A well of sweet water on the edge of the desert . 198 The sunset glowed and burned 200 Upward-springing minarets 202 Once more I shall see that noble bay 204 xv TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Introductory Properly to write the wonderful story of Tripoli, daughter of sea and desert, one must be not only an accomplished historian, a cul- tivated archaeologist and an expert in ethnol- ogy, but profoundly versed in Arabic and in the fundamental beliefs and general practices of Mohammedanism, as well as the local cus- toms of that great religion, coloured as it is by differing environment. If one aims to give a clear exposition of this enthralling though tragic coast of northern Africa, he must be a thorough student of political economy, too, with a world outlook on cause and effect in government. Tripoli of the West enjoys the protection of a natural rocky breakwater, obvious proof TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS that a city has always been there, ever since the earliest voyages of Phoenician navigators. Conquered by Rome, and held in splendid pros- perity until the seventh century of our era, inundated by Moslems, prey of Vandals, cap- tured by Charles V, ruled by native Pashas, seized by Turkey, bombarded by Italy — who has the ethical right to Tripoli to-day? The exciting events of 191 1 have directed more popular attention to Tripoli than she had enjoyed for over a century. She will never be wholly forgotten again. Why the fasci- nating oriental city had been so ignored is difficult to see; but repeated visits there for astronomical purposes had revealed a charm of living and a wealth of history that years of study and observation could not exhaust. Among the most scholarly men in Tripoli were certain Jewish rabbis whose minds were storehouses of information. As they spoke only Hebrew I conversed with them through interpreters, but a rich field of investigation here awaits translation to the general student. 2 INTRODUCTORY If we of the English-writing world are able to speak French and German fairly well, we feel more or less equipped for cosmopolitan living; with a smattering of Spanish and Italian in addition we are thought unusual lin- guists, quite competent to conquer the world. But what of the other well-nigh countless tongues of millions. Even the small boys of Tripoli's narrow streets can use interchangeably all the lan- guages current there. Americans would be quite at sea in that whirlwind of dialect. A daughter of the Consul-General of Great Britain illustrated the true cosmopolitan, at home in the world at large: many an after- noon have I seen her dispensing tea to half a dozen nationalities, addressing each in his own language, turning instantly and gracefully from one to another with English, French, Turkish, Italian, Arabic, modern Greek, Mal- tese — on the tip of her clever and fluent tongue. Only by such versatility and flexibility of 3 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS make-up can one cope with the endless and com- plicated problems of such a racial composite. In view of the far-reaching nature of Tripoli and her story, I will only add that this book does not even touch upon a thousand and one delightful aspects of the white city which might be brought out. In spite of months of residence there and constant eagerness for all its enchanting phases, I bring only an incom- plete picture of the extraordinary region as I saw it, though drawn with a loving and ap- preciative hand,. a II Tripoli the Mysterious With her feet in the blue Mediterranean, ft her head in the fire of heaven " and her back against the yellow silence of eternal Sahara, Tripoli waits her latest destiny. However diplomatic complications may be solved, lethargic, oriental, half-mediaeval Trip- oli will be no more. The old walled city of Roman, Arab and Turk must awake at last and take her place in the procession of the modern world. For years hinted foreboding and prophecies of change were quietly pervasive. While much of its trade was in the hands of Jews and Maltese, Italy, having other large interests in the region, had practically absorbed the ship- ping. " Sometime Tripoli will be Italian " was whispered in many tongues. '5 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Compulsory service in the Turkish army was not wholly to the liking of independent native tribes, and despite faith in one prophet, a sort of watchful neutrality characterized the Arabs, perhaps even more marked than in usual relations of the conquered to their " pro- tectors." At all events a certain restlessness was obvious among Maltese, Italians, even in calmer sons of the desert, and no one who knew Tripoli city could have been surprised at the seemingly sudden coup d'etat of her nearest European neighbor. One of the last regions in this over-traveled world not only unswamped, but even unno- ticed by tourists, the old Tripoli of Punic and Roman days and of later Mohammedan supremacy can never again retreat into the obscurity of centuries. It has been said that Tripoli stands as a sort of buffer between Tunis and Egypt. Both France and England would seem to have looked indifferently upon her unproductive wastes; but the position of Italy, alive to her 6 o TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS value, is somewhat different, and in the eyes of many careful observers it has been consid- ered the European power most likely some- time to conquer and govern the desert prov- ince. Rome once reigned supreme over north- ern Africa. Why not claim again a part of her early heritage? Natural outlet for the wealth of Africa, Tripoli might be made a place of especial importance in judicious hands. The battles of 191 1 seem almost contradic- tory when we consider that Mohammedans are fatalists : all Arabs say " Fate is irrevocable, and to oppose destiny is sacrilege." Perhaps, however, the Tripolitan mind was not wholly certain as to just what constituted its decreed destiny. More picturesque under Ottoman rule than it can ever be again, — dreamy, dirty, sor- did, exquisite, noisy, enthralling, beautiful, unsanitary, — the strange city gripped one's affections. Into the heart it came to stay. Ill An Eclipse Trip to Tripoli Twice the alliterative delight of " an eclipse trip to Tripoli " has been ours. In May of 1900 the sun's anticipated darkening brought us to those dazzling shores; and again in August, 1905, by a coincidence unique in as- tronomical annals, another eclipse track crossed the former one exactly over the same popu- lous city. Knowing its limpid skies and free- dom from cloud, the Astronomer and his reti- nue once more set forth for this far shore. If " science acquaints us with strange bed- ifellows," eclipse paths are responsible for en- ticing their followers into remote and untrav- eled ways which are extremely likely to prove mines of heretofore unsuspected wealth, in landscape, ethnology, picturesque history and customs, and all the charm of unspoiled humanity. 8 AN ECLIPSE TRIP TO TRIPOLI This was emphatically true of Tripoli, Tra- blus el-Gharb (Tripoli of the West), that famous Oea of the ancients, whose long and troubled history began in the mists of Phoeni- cian founding, ran through the splendid period of Roman rule, saw all its previous glory wiped out and rendered naught after the Hejira in a. d. 622, when Islam overran the whole North African coast like an irresistible tidal wave, and in 1835 reduced it to the fate of a Turkish vilayet. All the charm of all these varied fates hung about its narrow streets, impassive white walls, arcaded thoroughfares, headless statues and whitewashed tiles, its bubbling domes and sky-piercing minarets. The advent of an astronomer and his ap- paratus had excited more intense interest than Arab imperturbability would allow to become apparent. That he had come across far seas for an eclipse, whatever that might be, was an event of amazing import. During my frequent visits to harems I heard much speculation, curiosity, and not a 9 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS little fear expressed, as to some event ap- proaching both strange and portentous. An old man near the sea-gate gave out that he retained a memory of such an occurrence years before. But that darkening was made by Allah. Of this new kind, produced by a kafir, he could know nothing, nor ought it to be countenanced. Others scouted the idea that a kafir could accomplish it. While Arabs were among the first to tell the world of astronomy, this science seems prac- tically unknown to the inhabitants of Barbary, who cannot calculate eclipses, and believe they always bring or foretell evil. In some quar- ters of the city it was asserted that enormous balloons had been brought as essential parts of the outfit, and that when the appointed day should come, the Astronomer would ascend straight into the " eye of the sun," there to discharge five hundred pounds' worth (ster- ling) of spirits of wine, which in evaporating would cause thick darkness and eclipse. Some of the more intelligent having been asked to 10 AN ECLIPSE TRIP TO TRIPOLI draw the corona, replied that it was forbidden to gaze upon such a thing, much less attempt to depict it, and would be followed by certain disaster. On our second visit, wonder and suspicion had changed to friendliness, and no evil was prophesied from our manipulation of the heavens. As before, by courtesy of H.M. repre- sentative, the Astronomer had established his observing station on the roof-terrace of the British Consulate-General, soon again popu- larly known as the " royal observatory," where telescopic groves grew apace, to the wonder- ment of upward-gazing multitudes from lower roofs. But the whole region was pregnant with absorbing interest, quite detached from as- tronomy; and while my husband was con- stantly engaged with his apparatus and eclipse preparation, in the intervals of such minor aid as I might render in the preparations, I found every moment occupied. ii TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS With the blue sea, sands and city dazzling white, Arabs and Bedouins baffling and mys- terious, relics steeped in half-forgotten his- tory, every fallen stone full of suggestion, near neighbour to countless sand-blown ruins, each with its dumb story awaiting interpre- tation, Tripoli offered unimagined material to artist, archaeologist and historian, as well as to delvers into racial problems, and linguistic students of many dialects. To revisit any spot once loved and deserted has been called by Lafcadio Hearn a danger- ous experiment. But our return to these fair shores did not disenchant. Potent even in absence, the fascination only increased as the sight of her sunny whiteness grew again into actual vision, and became one with memory. And now again the story of Tripoli changes. But whatever the outcome, she will have still her limpid skies, her air like wine, and a cli- mate where it is a sin to acknowledge an ache or a pain, old age or unhappiness. The charm of Orient and Islam may be less; but I can J2 A AN ECLIPSE TRIP TO TRIPOLI never cease to be grateful that I knew Tripoli in the days when to breathe her atmosphere and revel in her sunshine meant joy, not only, but when crowding nationalities, Babel tongues, mediaeval streets, brought such vivify- ing interest that all the years thereafter have been richer, more satisfying, and fuller of the intoxicating wine of life. 13 IV Arrival In childhood we all learned the " four Bar- bary States, — Morocco, Algeria, Tunis and Tripoli." Perhaps in after years some of the little pupils who recited that list so glibly may have seen Morocco or Algiers, perhaps even Tunis; but it is safe to say that few ever saw Tripoli, to other lands a name only for many generations. The province of Tripoli contains practically everything for eight hundred miles between Djerba and Tobrook, from Tunis to Egypt, and southward to Fezzan, the town of Gha- dames and the oasis of Ghat. The island of Djerba was the scene of terrible conflict be- tween Moors and Spaniards during the Sara- cenic wars of the Middle Ages. There are traces upon the north coast of a pyramid built 14 ARRIVAL of the skulls of Christians, as a warning not to attempt another subjugation of the island. Methods of reaching Tripoli are leisurely. From Naples a line of comfortable Italian steamers runs to Messina, and down the beau- tiful coast of Sicily, with unhurried stops at Catania and Syracuse, thence across to Malta, where one has hours for Valetta and its sub- urbs. Early morning arrival in the sparkling harbour of Tripoli was an almost theatrical vision of strange craft flying Greek, Turkish, Italian, French flags, and small native boats, fishermen, sponge-divers and all the curious life of a peculiarly non-European community. Another route to the same bourne is by French steamer from Marseilles to Tunis. Full of interest in itself, this French-Arab city, glowing and enticing on the far shores of its salt lagoon, is actually less vital with all its abounding life than the near-by site of ancient Carthage alive with memory. Over the wrecked beauty and splendour buried in the yellow earth, a gleaming little Arab village i5 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS lies asleep in the sun, prone upon the hillside. From Carthage eastward along the curving coast-line, the steamer stops at Mehdia, Sousse, Sfax, Gabes, full of superb relics; dim Afri- can mountains brood, a swarming Moslem life fills pier and promontory, until all is crowned at last by the white flash of Tripoli, dazzling in hot sunshine — the ideal Africa of one's imagination. Many Arabian authors have described this ancient city from the sea with all the wealth of fancy and richness of imagery they knew so well. But the beauty of that spectacle could not have been exaggerated. The old wall, the Pasha's Castle, the ex- quisite rounded mosques, many a minaret hold- ing aloft its golden pinnacles and crescent, feathery palms, a green band separating sea from sand dunes and desert, and two lovely domed tombs standing alone on a little point, all made a vision of ethereal loveliness. The ancient lighthouse seemed not an extraneous structure, but an integral part of the tide- 16 ARRIVAL washed rocks from which it grew; and be- yond, in the city, flags of many countries seemed keeping perpetual holiday. Above the official residence of the British Consul-Gen- eral the national emblem waved silent wel- come, only next in affection to the stars and stripes which nowhere appeared. Oriental, mediaeval, picturesque, unthought of by the traveler, unvisited by the tourist, Tripoli seemed left behind in the breathless rush of modern life. The whole impression of a first arrival soon became separated into component parts. Greek sponge boats, hauled up high and dry on the beach for repairs, the sea-gate (Bab el- Bahr) open for the day, Turkish officials idling and smoking on benches, Greek sailors pulling at narghiles, Arabs taking cups of black coffee in a dozen corners — sharp contrasts filled this strange, fascinating city of the prophet. i7 V Thoroughfares One's first walk is a revelation of oriental i possibilities. " Balik ! Balik ! " One jumps aside at the sudden, harsh cry; and a tiny, overloaded donkey trots by patiently, its little hoofs sound- less on the white and powdery street. Gen- erally weighed down with grass panniers hold- ing huge earthern-ware water- jars, often the carcass of a sheep or lamb, and perhaps his owner in addition (sitting, however, mercifully well back upon the little animal's haunches, unless he is walking behind, the better to goad the hurrying flanks), countless numbers of the pathetic little beasts trot eagerly along, help- less ears wagging to and fro, always humble, always sad, with woes which never rise to the dignity of genuine sorrows. But no warning shout gives notice of the 18 o o o o THOROUGHFARES camel's stealthy approach. His padded feet move on like fate. No other traveler has any rights which he is bound to respect, and a scornful face with indescribably contemptuous and curling under lip may be thrust over one's very shoulder from the rear, without other notice than his unannounced proximity. For many reasons, indeed, one must be wary in the narrow streets. It is the pedestrian's own fault if donkeys, goats, camels or the occasional two-wheeled, canopied araba run him down. Caution is soon learned. After all, the camel does not seem to feel the same lively enmity to Caucasians so openly evinced by the sinister water buffalo of the Philip- pines. His lofty hauteur is too great to admit so personal a sensation as dislike. And he has a variety of voices. During one of my first nights in the white city, when awakened by a prolonged and screaming cry, I thought sleepily of a loco- motive in trouble. A slight accession of con- sciousness showed the impossibility of hearing 19 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS railway sounds through several hundred miles : it was merely the night call of the domesti- cated camel, trumpeting his perennial discon- tent to some fellow sufferer; or perchance dreaming of free, windblown desert spaces, no more home for his longing feet. With Kip- ling we came to feel that — " »T? » E 's a devil an' a' ostrich an' a' orphan child in one." In the narrow thoroughfares he passes with infinite disdain; but in one wide-open room, with its arched ceiling, another camel, blinded by oval baskets tied over his eyes, used to tread his monotonous round year after year, grinding corn between upper and nether mill- stones. Centuries of habit lay behind the primitive appliances. Slightly at one side of the thronging high- ways, in corners and niches here and there, a bundle of rags appeared to have been thrown, carelessly; to one's surprise these huddled masses once in a while sat up, peacefully ad- justed themselves, and stalked away, dignified, 20 THOROUGHFARES fully dressed Arabs. The barracan, indeed, is apt to be costume by day, bed, pillow and cover by night. The chorus of street cries was singularly varied. Potatoes, oranges, fish, peculiarly white eggs sold by jet black men, — each ar- ticle was accompanied by its special tone and tune, language or dialect. In front of their open shops devout Arabs read the Koran in apparent absorption; never so far removed from this world's affairs, how- ever, as to forget the additional price for their wares reserved for Christians. Bakers without warning pulled out from their ovens huge shovels full of yellow loaves, until the long iron handles, reaching nearly across the street, proved a sudden stumbling- block to the unwary. This sulphur-tinted edible is more decorative than hygienic. But it must be distinctly convenient to use the street as a sort of supplementary bake-shop, when one's own premises are too small for manipulating the long-handled implements of 21 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS trade; and no less easy and pleasant to strew one's loaves along the highway, where cus- tomers here and there can pick up those most to their liking, drop an infinitesimal Turkish coin, and pass silently onward. In the street of potters pretty Jewish boys made and sold jars identical in shape with the Roman amphorae of two thousand years ago, still frequently unearthed when wells were dug, or a new garden made. Digging for relics per se was forbidden by the Turkish government; but among those interested in antiquities many wells seemed an imperative necessity. The modern copies were still car- ried off to small inland villages, as they had been since the dawn of history, over roads and scarcely discernible pathways of immemo- rial age, quite as bad as when first trodden. The city streets were no better; and for considerations of cleanliness walks were gen- erally taken in the morning. Small boys went about at sunrise, sweeping with the bushy part of the date palm, and collecting accumulated 22 US o OS 6C 53 6 O VII Tripoli and the United States The concern of Americans with this far- away coast began in 1784, near the close of the Revolution, when pirates were making life miserable to the newly fledged republic. Our craft and our diplomatists have not loved Tripoli for more than a century. The first aggression by Barbary powers against the United States and its commerce appears to have been in October of that year. Presumably we were sufficiently wearied and harassed by our own Revolution to fall easy victims in the Mediterranean to the corsairs who swept the seas with the greatest danger and loss of our shipping, to say nothing of our sailors and officers, many of whom were im- prisoned, enslaved and most cruelly treated, in spite of the subsidy paid for protection. 39 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Treaties were made and broken, and one of the old pamphlets of the time quaintly remarked that Tripoli " has now fome trade in afhes, oftrich feathers and fldns ; but they gain more by the Chriftians taken at fea, for they either fet high ranfoms on them, as we lhall fee in the fequel, in the cafe of our own unfor- tunate countrymen who have unluckily fallen into their hands, or elfe fell them for flaves." Our officers made gallant records in these troubled years — Preble, Bainbridge, Decatur and others — but the loss of our frigate, the Philadelphia, was a severe blow at a time when we needed all our naval resources. Peace was greatly delayed by this catastrophe, and the large number of prisoners complicated the whole question very seriously. Stories of the imprisonment of our officers in Tripoli are occa- sionally told there even yet, and picturesque incidents still recounted. Houses were shown me in which the captives were confined, though there was manifest reluctance to talk upon vari- ous aspects of this period by the descendants of those concerned. 40 Houses were shown me where the captives were confined TRIPOLI AND THE UNITED STATES In 1804 Tripoli was blockaded by our ships under Commodore Preble, after the loss of the Philadelphia, and he, with Bainbridge, con- ceived the plan of again destroying the frigate, which had been raised and put in commission by the Pasha and his officers. The destroying expedition, in charge of Decatur, was splendidly carried out. The Philadelphia, a floating mass of fire, her guns discharging as the flames reached them, finally sank in shallow water near the shore, a complete wreck. Her charred re- mains could be seen on any quiet day beneath the clear waters of the bay, and a piece of her historic keel now lies on my desk. This brilliant enterprise added much to the prestige of our navy and was called by the great Nelson " the most bold and daring act of the age." A more perfect outcome, of course, would have been the capture and tow- ing away of the Philadelphia, once more to re- join our own squadron, but the orders of the admiral were explicit. Risks in trying to escape with her were too great. 4i TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Peace was finally restored, and the depreda- tions of the Barbary corsairs ended. Turkey became once more paramount in 1835, and Tripoli has since stood still. 42 VIII The Pasha's Castle Once an ancient fortress, this official resi- dence of the Governor was almost a small city in itself. Access to its outer passages was a simple matter for the inhabitants, who thronged its white entrances with petitions, requests or business they thought important, awaiting with stolid patience the time when Turkish soldiers and guardians would admit them to its inner courts. Many of them probably never reached those desired precincts — but they made a pic- turesque crowd, kept in orderly shape by strict authority. The chief government offices were located here, the law courts, prisons, warehouses and military stores. There was also a barrack for infantry. Cavalry and artillery were housed farther out of the city. A sort of town council 43 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS (beledia), chosen by the Pasha, had its meet- ings here. Town finances, street cleaning (the latter, as an Italian writer naively remarks, " a function often merely nominal ") and light- ing were considered at these times, as well as other city interests. Lighting was not an ex- traordinarily complicated matter; faint lamps, fed by petroleum, were set here and there in gloomy corners. The huge structure contained two large courtyards, and was so firmly planted on natural rock that now and again ledges came to the surface in walls and bastion ; a few stones with Roman inscriptions occupied corners. If those dumb walls could speak, centuries of history, unwritten, unremembered, but full of the passion and patriotism, cruelty and treachery of life would be revealed. On one visit to the Pasha he proposed to show us the castle, sending two richly dressed officials as guides. We were not slow to take the implied suggestion of looking only at what was espe- cially designated. It was all intensely inter- 44 His Excellency Redjed Pasha, former Governor of Tripoli THE PASHA'S CASTLE esting, from the Pasha's modern drawing- rooms where delicious coffee and Turkish refreshments were served, to the roof terrace offered as headquarters for our observations overlooking bay and shipping and sands. On September I the anniversary of the Sul- tan's accession was celebrated with much pomp. Processions and Turkish ceremonies filled the day. In the evening the Pasha gave a brilliant reception. We drove to the Garden gateway over Pianura sands, full of huddled Arabs and sleeping camels. The great pavilion sparkled with lights and decorations, and the Turkish band was playing as we entered. Scarlet and white hangings, divans and embroideries made a gorgeous effect. Only a few especially invited guests were re- ceived within, the immense crowd remaining respectfully outside. We were greeted first by PI Bey, resplendent in state uniform, and passed on through lines of waiting attendants from one officer to another, and finally to the Pasha himself, who insisted upon our occupy- 45 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS ing his own special divan and kept us by his side for the remainder of the evening. Beyond was a private and enclosed garden, where the band was stationed. Ices and coffee, sweets and cake were immediately served, the Pasha chatting volubly to us in Turkish, which was put into excellent French by one of his staff. So the evening passed brilliantly, and the holiday closed with remarkable fireworks as the band played its final tribute to the Sultan. 46 o c H IX Inhabitants, Occupations, Schools Its forty thousand or more inhabitants were hard to disentangle ethnologically ; also a reli- able census is almost impossible, for under cer- tain interpretations of the Koran its principles oppose such accuracy. Less than five thousand Europeans, chiefly Maltese, were actual resi- dents. The original stock is probably repre- sented by Berbers, but to the onlooker the dis- tinctions between Arab, Moor and Bedouin are slight. A few persons descended from a Turk- ish father and an Arab mother are termed Corugli or Colugli. So much intermingling of races by marriage as the city showed made still more difficult the task of recognizing na- tionalities. Many families were crossed Arab- Italian, in such cases usually Mohammedan in belief. Fezzani and inky Sudanese abounded, many 47 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Jews, Italians and Maltese, Albanians in baggy- trousers, Greek sponge-divers, Sicilians, whirl- ing dervishes and holy marabouts. Turkish soldiers, lounging in barracks or over the mud walls of their gardens, showed the most diver- sified rags, and while utterly unkempt and dirty, had generally boyishly honest and ami- able faces. Ten thousand troops, chiefly in and near the city, added to its motley and bewilder- ing masses. Only sixteen English-speaking persons lived permanently in Tripoli, and there was no United States Consulate, though one was established in 191 o; but the British Con- sul-General was a host in himself, looking out impartially for the welfare of the most ignorant Maltese, for the extensive English interests in esparto grass and other trade, and for Ameri- can eclipse expeditions as well. Three post- offices, Turkish, French and Italian, should have given a wonderful ease in transmitting mails. The Italian office served the postal affairs of England. Turkish money being almost hopeless of understanding, our financial transactions 48 Inky Sudanese abounded INHABITANTS were generally conducted in lire, though French francs were warmly welcomed. The numerous esparto funduks are character- istic, and we spent entertaining afternoons at a large one owned by an English friend. Piles of sweet-smelling grass lay in tons around the high wall, where an army of black men in all stages of picturesque rags were picking out dead roots and other drawbacks to first quality. Huge piles on their heads, wonderfully balanced, after this process of separation, were carried to a machine, dumped into a sort of iron box, into which two men jumped, packing it hard and solid. Turned by machinery under a steam press, six steel binders were clamped about it until a neatly packed bale ready for shipment finally emerged. Negroes with hooks rolled it off through a gate and up a narrow lane to the storehouse. Tripoli was said to make more than a million francs a year by this export. On its arrival from the interior, the Arab bringing it was paid for weighing and storing, as well as the government tax. 49 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Formerly corn was extensively exported, but when different causes combined to reduce de- mand, the natives settled down to raise and grind only enough for their own small uses. In various lines much greater activity and prosperity prevailed in earlier times. Daily life presented a moving picture of nationalities well-nigh unmatched by any other region. Arabs were pervasive, omnipresent; ghostly dream figures muffled in white barra- cans silently traversed the streets of a pale city equally spectral, the women completely shrouded except one bright black eye, the men showing swarthy faces of inexpressible sober- ness and dignity. Hurrying Jews, pasty-faced Maltese — the women in the national faldetta — and overrunning desert nations filled the highways, in every shade from yellow to deep- est brown, thence to dead black like ebony matching their wool, or polished black like patent leather — Berbers, negroes, Fezzani, Sudanese, in a " fluid panorama." A so-called Turkish college was conducted 50 o INHABITANTS in the city, but the boys had to complete any course of study satisfactorily in Constanti- nople, especially if intended for a military career. There was a French school for boys conducted by the Marianiste Brothers; also a girls' school and an asylum were carried on by the Sisters of S. Vincent; and there were in- stitutions in charge of the Jewish Union. A fine collection of meteorological apparatus for use during the 1905 eclipse was installed by Professor Palazzo of Rome on the roof of the Italian school for boys. Italy carried on two elementary schools for boys and for girls, a kindergarten and a technical commercial school with the meteorological observatory attached. The late director of foreign instruction, Sig. Giuseppe Ayra, has given the general meteoro- logical history of Tripoli in a little volume pub- lished in Turin several years ago. The ob- servatory established by Italy in 1892 was the only one between Tunis and Alexandria ancl held a very important position. The technical school for poor and orphaned 5i TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS children was housed in a new building, where we were greeted by the grave and competent principal. In the bare reception room Turkish coffee was immediately served. Through many other apartments we were escorted, where boys were working at turning-lathes, and making furniture, machinery and shoes, weaving silk into barracans, dress materials and curtains. The blacksmith shop was equipped with bellows and other appliances exactly like those in use for centuries, and three men were pounding an anvil, making a favourite Arab tune. All colours worked peacefully together, blacks from the Sudan, browns from Misrata and Gabes, lighter tinted Arabs — all races with- out distinction were amicably friendly. Across a hot garden, past a paddock full of rams and goats (once an old Arab cemetery), we reached the building where girls were busy at rug-making, and where a demure jet-black maiden had to go ahead to warn the school of our coming, that the little girls, some of whom were old enough to be attractive, might adjust 52 INHABITANTS their barracans over their faces before the head of the school and the foreign gentleman should arrive. Under ten years the children remained uncovered. All turned and saluted us with a charming manner, and at a signal turned again to their weaving, which they did with great speed, copy- ing a design prepared by some supposable artist. Workmanship was very beautiful, pat- terns very bad — flags, patriotic insignia and the map of Africa, with hard outlines and crudely brilliant colours. Outside the city are few large centers, and practically none in the interior. Benghazi, cap- ital of Cyrenaica, near the ruins of ancient Hesperia (later Berenice), had practically ten or twelve thousand beside the Turkish garri- son. But there was no regular communication either with Europe or Tripoli, sometimes nearly two months elapsing without this possibility. Its Governor was of a lower rank than the Pasha of Tripoli, but still independent of him. Cyrenaica had only about two hundred thou- 53 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS sand inhabitants, and the Italian post-office had often to hold mail for a month or more before any means of forwarding presented itself, English tramp steamers or Turkish transports being the only possible carriers. At Jebel Gharian a few poor villages clus- tered about two Turkish fortresses with their garrisons, Kars el-Gharian and Kars el- Jebel. Zentan is the center of an actual troglodyte colony. The inhabitants of these subterranean villages live in shelters cut in the living rock, leaving them only for purposes of labour and harvesting. 54 X The British Consulate-General One of the oldest, largest and most interest- ing dwellings in the city is the official home of England's representative. Built in 1744, a hundred feet square, it surrounds the usual central courtyard and was constructed with reference to repelling a siege. Almost a for- tress in itself, it had served purposes of defense and refuge for early dwellers in the uneasy city many times before the English-speaking resi- dents flocked to its shelter in October of 191 1. In peaceful times its complicated entrances were occupied only by dozing Arab servants, one of whom, the majestic cavasse and interpreter Mufta, would conduct in the expectant visitor whose reason for coming was satisfactory. Off the court were offices, kitchens and serv- ants' quarters; a huge old tree lifted its 55 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS branches far above the roof terrace; blossom- ing shrubs in gracious abundance and the welcome tinkle of water gave a cool and home- like effect to the shady enclosure. Around and above, a gallery was reached by a lovely wrought-iron stairway with sandstone steps, worn into hollows by the feet of a hundred and fifty years. Inviting doorways led to the drawing-rooms and bedchambers, dining-room and boudoirs of the household. On the gallery wall hung the old national coat-of-arms of Denmark, formerly adorning its own Consulate, afterward abandoned — of es- pecial interest in recalling stories of the humane conduct of a certain Danish Consul toward American prisoners during the wearisome war with Tripoli over a century ago. The insig- nia of Norway, also weatherbeaten and time- worn, from another Consulate now no more, hung beside the Danish emblem ; the slight in- terests of those countries in this remote Turkish vilayet were being faithfully looked after by the Consul-General for Great Britain, who also 56 Sandstone steps worn into hollows by the feet of a hundred and fifty vears BRITISH CONSULATE-GENERAL represented the few Americans occasionally seeking the shores and sands of Barbary. Numerous Roman amphorae and bas-reliefs unearthed from the encroaching sands enriched drawing-rooms and gallery; plants in lavish abundance, bamboo seats and tea-tables made an atmosphere of delightful hospitality. In its library, a charming place for browsing about, the archives were rich in ancient books and manuscripts. I one day came across the quaintly entertaining volume, " Narrative of a Ten Years' Residence in Tripoli in Africa. From correspondence in possession of Richard Tully, London, 1816." The amusing story told in this old book, of which later editions have been issued but often without the very funny colored plates of the earlier, is contained in letters supposedly written by the wife of a British Consul-General to Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. Many valuable and now all but for- gotten details of life in remote Barbary over a hundred years ago are preserved in vivid form by this vivacious lady. 57. TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Vehicles used, even well into the nineteenth century, were almost exclusively palanquins en- closed in linen, and mounted upon a camel's back ; but these were kept by only a few of the great Moors for their ladies. Others walked. Mourning in Tripoli at this time was denoted more by shabbiness than by distinctive colour — the greater the grief, the more careless one's dress. A new article, necessarily purchased, was dragged through water to take off its first freshness before wearing. One pamphlet, printed in 1806, described quaintly the " Tripoline ' : war of the United States. Another, far older and very rare, I afterward found in the British Museum: " Late Newes out of Barbary. In a letter writ- ten of late from a Merchant there, to a Gentleman not long f ince employed into that Countrie from his Maiestie. Containing fome ftrange particulars, of this new Saintifh Kings proceedings : as they have been very credibly related from fuch as were eye- witnef fes. Imprinted at London for Arthur Jonfon. 1613." •58 BRITISH CONSULATE-GENERAL But far more entertaining than any pub- lished book was the manuscript journal kept by H. M.'s representative in Tripoli between 1768 and 1772. He begins promptly: " The man of war that cary's me anchor'd in ye road att Tripoly ye King's ship to fire an evening gun at setting ye watch. " Memorandum to inquire what is to be done about ye additional salute. All ye Consuls will visit me promis. without observing any order upon my arrival, preceded by a message deliver'd by a Dragoman. I can return none of these visits till I have presented my Credentials to ye Bashaw. When I visit ye Bashaw by his appointment that part of ye presents intended for him must be carry 'd with me, that part of ye presents for his officers I distribute att my own convenience . . . I shall find ye Bashaw sitting, the form of salu- tation is to advance and kiss his write and left cheek and make him a bow. I sett on his left side, being the place of honour in Tripoly. " To make my first visit alone. "To take care y* I am saluted with 7 Guns being my privilidge. Ye Cap* may if he pleases re- turn ye salute. . . . The Choux or Civil officer that always presents ye Bashaw's present of refresh- ments to be each day entertained on board ship with coffee and Capilaire in ye wardroom, not in 59 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS ye Captain's cabin, every day when he leaves ye ship the Choux must be saluted with 3 Guns only no Turks whatever on makeing a visit should be saluted. ... By this time or probably sooner I shall be apply 'd to for payment of 4 zequins for the salute made according to treaty to his Majesty's ship on her arrival. This salute is due by treaty and not to be paid for. They will ask for 4 zequins for my being saluted . . . for which there is no necessity. ... Ye Captain of ye Port in particular and many other Turks will without any shame ask for any- thing on board ye ship or in my house . . . but there is no necessity for giving them everything they ask for." Then follow directions to himself as to the orders relative to flags. " Ye hoisting of His Majesty's colours upon dif- ferent occasions becomes a kind of Publick Lan- guage perfectly well understood by Moors as well as Christians," and proceeding to emphasize the fact that the " colours must be kept chaste " to ensure re- spect, he gives a list of occasions when they may with propriety be hoisted. Att Christmas 3 Days. Every Sunday in ye year. Saint George's Day new stile and old stile. Easter 60 BRITISH CONSULATE-GENERAL Monday. Fourth June His Majesty's birthday. N. B. Ye first visit rec'd from and pay'd to every Consul. Ye same when I introduce any person of condition to them or receive their visits or return any publick or cerem. dinner given or rec'd, the birth of a child to any Consul, the birthday of his Prince kept by any Consul when desir'd, whenever the Bashaw or his Elder Son rides out, 2 publick feast days of Byram and Ramadan, the birth of a Prince or Princess of the Ottoman port, the first visit pay'd to me by an ambassador appointed by the Bashaw to any European court after he is appointed and when he embarks, wh. is twice and no more." For times and persons when it is quite un- necessary to waste the honour, a careful list follows ; and after remarking that at the feasts of Byram and Ramadan it has been usual to make presents, this long-gone official adds naively, " wee have great ships and need make none." He also writes of the pushing and crowding of Consuls in calling on the Bashaw, as to " who shall gett first," but since the representative of His Majesty has always had precedence, " it never can be necessary for him to put himself 61 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS on a footing of having a scramble." As to call- ing upon the first Treasurer, " this is an inno- vation and therefore a compliment to be paid him or not as he behaves. They will all offer coffee of a bad kind and without sugar. I must taste it att each house notwithstanding, it being a mark of enmity to refuse a dish of coffee when offered by a Turk." Immensely entertaining notes follow about " oyl " and provisions, markets and seasons, and a "red wine from the Mediterranean cost of France, drinks like claret att first, but sowers presently." Caravans and ostrich feathers, gold, senna, snuff; from Mecca silks, muslins, coloured stones, pearls, small Persian carpets; and black slaves exported to Constantinople, all receive careful annotation at the hand of this conscientious gentleman, who seems to have had a clear brain for everything but spelling. That he was energetic to the last would appear to be shown by an added note, written by a later, evidently admiring, hand, " He died in his breeches." 62 BRITISH CONSULATE-GENERAL Both in spring and the height of summer Tripoli air was full of inspiration. Even when the gibleh blew, bringing a fine golden haze of sand from close-creeping Sahara spaces, with air hot and dry like a furnace, it was scarcely less full of the wine of life than when the sea wind came in from the Mediterranean, rippling the water to deep indigo flecked by whitecaps. Rain water at certain seasons is conducted from the constantly whitewashed roofs to cisterns below, where may be stored the year's supply. After the sun slipped down from the blazing heavens and shadows grew long and cool, roof terraces became the city's promenades where veiled ladies emerged, white like the city itself, to gaze safely forth above curious eyes. A broad expanse of terrace at the Consulate, higher than any other edifice in the city except its minarets, afforded delightful evening quar- ters, far above the shouts and confusion of the narrow masonry canons below. Every after- noon when tea in the pretty drawing-room was 6: >3 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS over, and the intense sunlight began to come in level and less burning rays, I always spent an hour or two on the roof. Too hot and blinding for use during the day, the terraces were more and more charming as sunset drew on. The white glare was subdued to pleasant lightness, and all humanity mounted to its lovely vantage grounds for breathing space, open prospect, star-gleam. In the narrow streets donkevs and camels and Arabs passed and repassed; bakers with their round and shining loaves, in yellow heaps just out of the oven, better as decoration than sustenance, Cretans, Albanians, Maltese, pro- miscuously mingled; and street cries ascended with their emphatic, unintelligible enunciation, constantly reiterated. Later the west grew yellow and magnificent, a sort of widespread radiance, hinting greater possibilities in reserve. The seventeen-domed mosque stood out whitely, even in that city of whiteness, the sapphire Mediterranean lapped serenely on the beach, the gleaming desert 64 o O BRITISH CONSULATE-GENERAL stretched mysteriously into dim twilight space, quiet palms rested their plumes from rustling. Then out upon the minarets, just beneath the ultimate green summits, each crowned by its golden crescent, emerged the white-draped muezzins, shrouded in ghostly barracan, for their fifth daily call of the faithful to prayer, white as the towers on which they stood and seeming hardly more human. Looking first into the sky, they bent low over the parapet, sending forth the call, singularly penetrating, and audible for long distances, albeit the voices have no real resonance and are hopelessly " squeezed " in quality. After dinner a still later phase came on, when roofs, domes, towers were suddenly flooded with the lighthouse flash close by, which hardly dimmed a full-moon brightness. It might have been a fairy city, beautiful beyond imagining. A palm tree showed here and there, from some hidden courtyard, gaining dark value in the silver scene, and tinkling music ascended, with no melody and no 65 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS rhythm, a part of all the vague and ghostly yet exquisite beauty. Toward the shore hooded monks in brown habit and rope girdle promenaded the roof of the Roman Catholic church — a foreign, not an integral part of the oriental evening. Glorified dust, whirling swallows, calls to sunset devotion, the silent desert close-clasping, on-coming moonlight, the coolness and blossom odour — these were Tripoli. 66 XI The Roman Arch and Ancient Remains Enticing as the native life of modern times proved — homely ancestral arts, picturesque decay, thronging tribes — more suggestive, pathetic, absolutely engrossing, was the om- nipresent evidence of a splendid period long since perished. The whole region is rich in ruins, edifices, tombs, arches, columns, pave- ments, sculpture in scattered fragments, great aqueducts, but all covered by resistlessly mov- ing desert sands or whitewashed, blurred and broken, spoiled by carelessness, ignorance, fanaticism. The grandeur of that long-gone age cannot be concealed even by such wholesale slaughter of the beautiful. Despite the ravages of time and the deplorable neglect of man, even in mutilation the ruin still bears noble witness to a civilization which once held the world captive. Exquisite slabs of carved marble are made to 6 7 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS do duty as doorsteps; stones with half-effaced inscriptions are built into countless cheap and sordid walls ; and at the intersection of two nar- row and lane-like streets, Shara Erbat Saat and Suk el-Yahud el-Hararah, four fine Roman pillars performed the part of corner posts. The most superb relic of these ancient days now departed is the four-sided triumphal arch, said to extend no less than twenty feet below the street level and reaching more than the same height above, wherein a wine shop and coal store hold gayly forth, yet obliterating only in part the magnificence of their incongruous shelter. Built by a loyal Roman citizen at the head of the Customs in a. d. 164, it was erected in honor of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Such parts of the splendid structure as were yet visible above general rubbish were seen to be carved in relief, and the whole, even in degra- dation, shows the vast conception and charac- teristic solidity of construction which can smile on the centuries and calmly withstand the bufferings of nature and far more cruel man. 68 The most superb relic ... is the four-sided triumphal arch ROMAN ARCH, ANCIENT REMAINS " Victory," a graceful female figure, stands in a car drawn by two winged sphinxes ; various trophies of arms may still be traced, a Roman eagle on a helmet, and the Latin inscription : — IMP • CAES • M • AVRELIO • ANTONTN ■ AVG • P • P • ET • IMP • CAES • L • AVRELIO • VERO • ARMENIACO • AVG ■ SER • CORNELIVS ■ ORFITVS • PROCOS • CVM • VITTEDIO • MARCELLO- LEG- SVO- DEDICAVIT- C • CALPVRNIVS • CELSVS ■ CVRATOR • MVNERIS • PVB • MVNERARIVS- II- VIR- QQ- FLAMEN- PERPETVVS- ARCVM • PECVNIA • SVA LOCO • PVBLICO ■ A |FVNDAMENTIS • EX • M ARMORE • SOLIDO FECIT • » Several words in the last line are nearly oblit- erated. The African fondness for whitewash which buries carvings, Moorish tiles, beauty of all kinds beneath its deadly touch, has not spared the noble arch, of course; and all the 1 Full text and translation of the inscription have been kindly supplied by my husband's colleague, Dr. Houghton: Imperatori Caesari Marco Aurelio Antonino Augusto patri patriae et Imperatori Caesari Lucio Aurelio Vero Armeniaco Augusto Servius Cor- nelius Orfitus proconsul cum Vittedio Marcello legato suo dedicavit. Caius Calpurnius Celsus curator muneris publici munerarius duumvir quinquen- nalis flamen perpetuus arcum pecunia sua loco publico a fundamentis ex marmore solido fecit. Servius Cornelius Orfitus proconsul, together with Vittedius Marcellus Ins lieutenant [legatus], dedicated [this arch] to the imperial Caesar Marcus A ure- lius Antoninus Augustus, father of his Country, and to the imperial Caesar Lucius A melius Verus A rmeniacus A ugustus. Caius Calpurnius Celsus, kee per of the public funds, bestower of gifts, duumvir quinqueunalis, flamen for life, erected [this] arch in a public place, built of solid marble from the foundations, at his own expense. "Munerarius," a giver of public games. "Quinqueunalis " holding office for five years. "A" flamen " was a priest of one particular deity. Fourth line of the inscription literally: arch at his own expense in a public place from the foundations of solid marble he made. Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum, viii, I, 24 reads vttedio instead of vittedio. 69 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS time stealthy desert sands have drifted in, burying more and more of the stately relic as years go on. But it gave veritable heartache to see so majestic a structure subject to the vandal touch of ignorance so consummate. Well-preserved pavements are found outside the city, anal evidence is everywhere apparent even to the most casual that remains of a once triumphal Roman occupation are but super- ficially overlaid by the sordid life of a poly- glot community, lacking all appreciation for the stately memorials of a magnificent past. Mr. H. S. Cowper's book, entitled " The Hill of the Graces," contains much valuable information on all the ancient remains, which he visited and studied as carefully as a watch- ful government allowed. Oases, deserts, sand dunes, all tell, perhaps blindly ancl unwillingly, but none the less certainly, a story centuries old, half forgotten, overlaid, yet patiently wait- ing interpretation. Mr. Cowper considers many of the senams as far older than Roman days, finding traces 70 ROMAN ARCH, ANCIENT REMAINS even of a prehistoric stone age, in a remarkable series of megalithic monuments which he com- pares with Stonehenge; he believes it not im- possible that the worship of the trilithonic symbol may even have made its way from Africa to Salisbury Plain. The senams, a word in Arabic meaning " idol," are door-like structures of dressed stone, a characteristic feature of the ruins, and may have originated with a race living here long before the Roman annexation of Regio Tripolitana. Probably the climate differed in those far- away days, as certain faint indications show. There is a popular belief in the city that open- ing the Suez Canal is perhaps the chief cause. There was certainly more wooded country, con- taining more streams which later and more careless inhabitants have allowed to perish. At present there is not one perennial stream properly called a river. In the rainy season many a wadi or river-bed fills with a rush- ing tide; and when in February of 1904 a cloudburst nearly submerged the city, all the 7i TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS sandy lanes became torrent beds, bringing much devastation. If all the ruined temples were in use at any one time, the population of Tarhuna and M' Salata must have equaled London at least. Even if some of them were built in different ages, the numbers must have been very great. There are fine ruins at Garia el-Sergia and Garia el-Garbia, south and west of Tripoli. Farther in the same direction are Zellah and Tirsa, where ostriches are raised. For long years all digging for archaeological material was forbidden by the Turkish government, as already mentioned, but despite restrictions a good deal of quiet investigation went on; and of Roman remains, fine if headless statues often came to light, bas-reliefs of much mag- nificence, inscriptions and columns in good condition after long burial in the sands. Near Horns, a center for the export of halfa, or esparto, a sort of grass much used for matting and paper, are the ruins of Leptis Magna (Lebda), founded by Sidonians only a 72 a. ROMAN ARCH, ANCIENT REMAINS century after Rome, and for a time a rival of Carthage herself. The principal ruins of Lebda lie about the mouth of a small stream or what should be a stream (wadi Lebda). On account of rabid vandalism, not only Arab but European, little remains of its early splen- dor. It is said that in the eighteenth century Louis XIV obtained from the government of Tripoli permission to export to Paris whatever he chose from Lebda. Many priceless columns adorn the church of S. Germain-des-Pres. According to a pamphlet on North Africa by Lieutenant-Commander Gorringe, United States Navy, published by the American Geo- graphical Society in 1881, Admiral Smyth of the English Navy removed many more, after- ward placed in the Royal Gardens at Windsor. Those remaining, which should have been matchless memorials of a great past, have been mutilated and destroyed by vandalism not wholly Arabic. Enough may yet be seen, how- ever, to show the dignity and glory of that early city. 73 XII To the Caves An hour or two from Tripoli, near Ghir- garesh, are curious caves which might once have sheltered an army of troglodytes. Camels were decidedly the best conveyance, but we once had excellent donkeys for the trip, and at another time tried the bone-racking araba, whose merry curtains effectively kept out all breezes and conserved the heat to a discour- aging extent. Out of the city through narrow lanes be- tween high mud walls, over which pome- granate and Barbary fig, gray olive and plumy palm waved and blossomed or offered fruit and shade, into the sand of the " Tunis road " we plunged. Here and there the winds had blown bare underlying rock, " the bleached bones of the world " unwittingly protruding in 74 -a to o TO THE CAVES grooves, ridges and gullies. Palms accentu- ated the dazzling landscape. Without this all- important tree, desert and oasis life would be well-nigh impossible. Kindling wood and building material from its trunk, baskets, ropes, brushes from the branches, the date palm supplies also the chief article of food, shade as well as fans, and lakbe, an intoxi- cating beverage. There was no real road, but the route lay along the shore past several beautiful domes of marabout tombs. These smaller domes over the bones of holy men are numerous in all the city environs. Each is frequently covered with bright flags brought by Moslem women when a longed-for happiness has come, or when some one near and dear has recovered from illness. Old wells, guardians of walled gardens, ap- peared frequently between sea and desert, each giving its oddly vocal squeak as the goatskin was let down empty or pulled up filled, cow and man gravely walking up and down the hill together. Each garden was carefully watched 75 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS and tended. The Arabs have a proverb that no palm tree will bear unless it hears daily the voice of its owner. One of the numerous Turkish forts lay in this direction, where idle soldiers in bright red sashes and picturesque rags lounged over their mud barricades and peeped through cactus hedges. Poor fellows! Their life was the acme of monotony. Belted and befezzed, even the passing of half a dozen strangers was of interest in a day devoid of incident. Just here a sharp skirmish was fought with the Italians late in 191 1, which successfully banished monotony. Before reaching Ghirgaresh a strange, proba- bly pre-Mohammedan, ruin rises from the sand high into modern sunlight in singular isolation. Its story is untold, its crumbling walls full of the echoes of a wonderful past for him who can interpret. What mysterious uses could this ancient stronghold have had, lacking doors and windows and steps or any means of entrance? This place is mentioned by Leo Africanus; 76 Marabout and palm One of the caves at Ghirgarish TO THE CAVES and the Arabs say the Emir Kerakish built it — which might show the derivation of the name. One of our drivers, Balaid, pulled him- self up by fingers and toes to the summit, look- ing down smilingly from that elevation, but without adding much to an intelligent solution of the mystery. Under the road near by was a large vaulted chamber for unknown purposes, possibly used as stables in olden days. At our entrance dis- gusted and expostulatory owls flew out with whoops and a great flapping of heretofore un- disturbed wings. Beyond and ever beyond lay an eternity of sand, drifting, restless, covering dead ruins and living gardens with equal devas- tation, silent and resistless. In these barren lands I counted twenty-six kinds of wild flowers, though a casual glance would have pronounced the region absolutely without vegetation. Nearly all were small and low, though occasional large masses of a lovely purple flower set in thick leaves wafted an odour like catnip or mint. Some of its blossoms 77 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS were entirely white. The tiniest of morning- glories grew in a thick tuft; there were yellow blossoms like small thistles with prickly leaves ; an infinitesimal dandelion appeared, and a charming, bright blue, five-petaled flower of some entirely new species, a smaller one of the same exquisite azure, with a corolla like a forget-me-not, only growing in clusters, many blossoms on one stem; and a brilliant crim- son tube, turning dull purple as it faded. All made a veritable wild garden in a savage wilderness easily overlooked unless one care- fully searched. Suddenly, sunk in an apparently level moor- land, were unexpected depressions, like deep holes, down which we climbed to find ourselves before huge caves, in all over fifty, where the air was cool and dry, a different world from that of the scorching sunlight above. In tex- ture like hardened sand, the rock was never- theless exceedingly solid, apparently water- worn, in places grotesquely shaped, some of the caves of natural origin, others quite prob- 78 o '5b o 1) £ o CO TO THE CAVES ably old quarries. Low, flat arches led still farther down and in, made centuries ago by human hands. More modern workmen had chiseled other marks and removed huge blocks of stone. Swallows and bats protested madly at our intrusion, and while we studied the strange pillars, arches, ceilings and inscrip- tions, our Arabs spread a delicious luncheon, subsequently scouring the dishes thriftily in sand. They have learned not to waste precious water superfluously. On one of these trips the French Consul was our host, and with us rode the French astron- omer Libert. The caves are very near the sea, and sunset effects were remarkable on water-worn rocks, gentle surf and far reaches of sand toward the white city itself in rosy distance. 79 XIII Wells and Gardens Primitive wells for irrigating gardens are scattered about, a patient cow walking all day up and down a little hill, letting an empty goat- skin into cooling depths, only to bring it over- flowing to the surface. The goatskin, or leather bottle, is shaped like a funnel, closed at the narrow end, and lowered by ropes over rough wooden cylinders, themselves supported by masonry pillars nine or ten feet high. A cow, the all-day motive power, is hardly more patient than the faithful attendant Arab. There are said to be approximately more than eight thousand wells in Tripoli and its en- virons, but owing to Arabic dislike of accurate estimate, the actual number may be even greater. Every garden had its well and simple system 80 -a W WELLS AND GARDENS of irrigation, and high mud walls against the ever-encroaching sand. Over the dull gray barrier scarlet pomegranate blossoms, oleander, palms, even climbing roses peeped at the passer below, hinting of lavish joys within. But anti- quated methods had never been superseded, and ambition was unknown. Even lubrication of the simple well-apparatus was neglected, and each had its distinctive squeak — one a high G, others giving different tones, occasionally two or three in succession, making little melo- dies all their own. A blind man might have learned to know his whereabouts by these pseudo-tunes and their variations. Certain old Latin authors have written of the marvelous fertility of the soil; and only a little water and comparatively slight labor would now be needed for abundant yield. Date palms were of course the chief reliance, but olives, pomegranates, oranges, bananas and apricots grew luxuriantly; and we were fre- quently offered excellent native watermelons. A sad little sight on the outskirts was a tiny 81 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS garden whose owner must have died, for the wall had fallen in a dozen breaks and had not been repaired. The well was silent, the reser- voir empty. Through every opening the piled- up sand was drifting, drifting, and the desert had almost claimed its own. Yet a few flowers and fruits still struggled on, obviously worsted, certain to be ultimately overwhelmed, but thrusting pathetically hopeful blossoms and fresh leaves above their silent and resistless foe. The gardens of wealthy Arabs, both Jewish and Mohammedan, were veritable beauty spots, luxuriant and magnificent. Always a central pond, with goldfish and fountain, surrounded by blossoming water-plants, formed the reser- voir from which small irrigating canals tra- versed the whole garden space, where flowers bloomed lavishly and golden oranges filled the trees. One could imagine himself in a semi- tropical region of the utmost richness, where no memory of the ever-moving, tireless sand could intrude. But the high mud wall has 82 WELLS AND GARDENS only to present the smallest break for doom to enter. Tripoli gardens should form a small volume in themselves, beginning with a description of the great Turkish garden where the band dis- coursed astonishing music every afternoon, while we took our afternoon tea — or coffee — in a pretty pavilion or in the shade of palm trees. Late one afternoon we drove out by invita- tion to the country place of a wealthy Arab, whose garden was famous. Past the well- remembered and mysterious black holes which go down to unknown depths, supposed to be ancient silos, or places for cutting up grain and food for animals, we reached the airy villa of our aim. High walls completely shut away the outside world. Brilliant zinnias were in full blossom, dahlias and geraniums, with the usual orange and fig trees, olive and lemon, pome- granates and palm. Our host was much inter- ested in what American gardens could produce, and asked for minute descriptions of such flowers as he did not know. 83 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Lanes and roads leading out of the city to the gardens were endlessly attractive and newly delightful each time we drove or am- bled down their sandy ways. Enormous old cactus plants, often quite trees, crowned high and frequently crumbling walls, over which gray olives swung. Splendid horses, sumptu- ously decorated with silver and leather, with long, flowing tails, bearing companies of Arabs or Turks, were liable to be met in the narrowest lanes, as well as droves of camels, donkeys or goats. Decaying adobe mosques, marabouts, vil- lages, were passed as we went onward into the open one late afternoon, and to the highest hill in Tripoli, which gave a wide view over miles of palms off to the desert. Two men were winnowing grain by tossing it up from a flat basket for the wind to blow away the chaff, a method used by farmers in New England less than a century ago. Up the bare hill slope we rode where the wind blew with a lonely swish across the red, hard-baked hillside. By 84 o 60 US 1> c3 H-3 WELLS AND GARDENS more narrow lanes we veered across a rather pleasant, because partly irrigated, country, with olive trees and bright green lucerne, to the Jewish village, Amrus. Most of the men were blacksmiths, and had brought from the shore all manner of old anchors of huge proportions to work over into implements. A closely built village with adobe houses treading on each other's- toes in the narrowest of streets — though there is all out- doors to expand in — the synagogue, finest of their buildings, was open for evening prayers. The " oven " was central meeting ground for men, women, babies and all, and here in the fitful firelight much gossip was going on, as all clustered about to watch the baking. A stone showing a half-obliterated Roman inscription was in use as a seat, and large rounbl platforms of masonry held stone rollers for crushing olives collected from the orchards all about. Oil is made in the most primitive manner possible. From the open country, returning sunset 85 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS drives formed one of our loveliest experiences. Earing the wonderful yellow west, palms, mosques and minarets were drawn against it in enchanting silhouette; homeward-bound Arabs, swathed in white, were riding small donkeys or perched on camels, pretty boys trudging beside them through the sand. And ever the golden glory grew until, suddenly paling, stars pricked through the crystalline dome of that marvelous African firmament, though mysterious illumination still came from somewhere on ghostly mosque and tower, but all else faded into soft night. As it grew darker, faint lights shone dimly through crev- ices of roadside tombs, the plaintive iteration of the wells ceased, and we were once more absorbed into the narrow city streets. 86 a bo C XIV Harems and Courtyards Every house, even the simplest, had its open courtyard, a sort of patio, around which the family rooms opened, thus preserving that non- committal, blank aspect toward the street so characteristic of oriental dwellings. From the fair vantage point of the Consulate roof ter- race one might look straight down into many a little courtyard where children and mothers, dogs and cats, had slept and eaten, rolled, tum- bled and lived a daylight programme. Here and there such a home spot was almost roofed by passion-flower vines in full blossom. Strange tinkling music ascended, and a happy if restricted life filled them with a certain sort of pleasantness all day — deserted at evening for the clear space above. Many of the harem courtyards were well 87 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS paved, the wainscot also of handsome tiles, and there was always a central fountain, or fine tree, and blossoming shrubs. On a visit of invitation to one of the best harems, I found the chief wife ill, but she sent for us to her room. In a graceful sort of night drapery she received us, wearing huge earrings and rings, her hair tied up in a blue silk scarf, and re- clining on straw mats raised one step above the floor. She had a pleasant face and spoke in- telligently on various simple subjects. Coffee was served at once. No moving air can penetrate those dark in- terior rooms of which the single barred window opens off the court. In this particular home the big airy chambers above, reached by the gallery, were given to the eldest son and his new wife. Taste in furnishing was execrable, and worse almost in proportion to the amount of money spent. Cheap European finery and tinsel seemed taking the place of earlier and better oriental forms and colours. Another day I went to a house of quite dif- ferent social order, where a poor woman with 88 a o T3 c o o o u c5 o U 1) ."I c as HAREMS AND COURTYARDS a crooked spine had asked to see the foreigner. She was sewing at a little machine low on the floor, turned by hand, like those used by Malays, her knees higher than her head — but that was apparently a favourite attitude of both sexes. A young woman sat near nursing her baby, a forlorn, feebly wailing mite. Her first child sat out on the courtyard flagging, with the usual diseased eyes and trouble with its skin. Flat on the floor lay an old woman sound asleep, merely a neighbour in for a while, to take this surprising means of promoting social hilarity. But she wore a good deal of jewelry, was artistically tattooed, and, upon waking, showed strong, short white teeth in a friendly smile. The natives seemed to take little care of their teeth, yet preserved them well into old age. I do not remember to have seen a toothless Arab. The poor little deformed woman seemed pathetically glad to see us, and began to talk at once of the coming eclipse, of her fear that it might injure her, and that she should not dare go to the roof to see it ; also asking me to use 89 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS my influence to render it as harmless as possible. The various wives in each home were appar- ently on good terms with one another, though each kept more or less to her own apartments in the better families. Children played ami- cably together, to whichever mother they might belong. A forest of thread hung up to dry after being dyed decorated another patio, and a pretty girl was winding reels anot bobbins in the shade. An old woman was similarly em- ployed; and another was combing rough lambs' wool with several kinds of spiked brushes. The chief room was full of gold Turkish embroideries in pillows, cushions and divans, and ornamenting the wall. Heavily curtained becis occupied the end, one above another. Generally the courtyards were fairly clean and often beautifully paved, though white- washing had nearly covered most of the wall- tiles. At one house a middle-aged woman sat on the platform sifting queer flour through a 90 o h c OS 'S HAREMS AND COURTYARDS series of sieves. Ultimately the chaff was separated from the coarse flour, that in turn from the finer. A fat woman was washing clothes in a big, shallow bowl on the floor, bend- ing quite double from the hips to reach it. No reason was apparent why she should not have had it set up on something. A rather attractive young girl was crocheting lace, while a wizened little old woman made an incredibly small bun- dle of herself, grinding coffee in a tiny brass mill. Children were, as usual, scattered about promiscuously. All the women were heavily laden with necklaces and bracelets; huge ear- rings (gold and silver circles) were often hung from three or four holes in each ear. One young married woman was elaborately self- tattooed. Shoes were removed to go into the open rooms, and a white sheepskin was brought for us to sit upon. Industrious and fairly happy they all seemed, with a good deal more of the home-making spirit and atmosphere than might have been anticipated. 9i XV !Arab Weddings The peculiar sound indicating joy, or a happy event about to take place, filled the narrow streets. It was shortly after midnight, and my first nap was at its deepest. The day had been a busy one, filled with visits in harems, ending with a Consulate din- ner and coffee at the Marina. At first the strange cry but dimly pierced consciousness. Then I woke more fully, and running to the window over the chilly stone floor, climbed into its wide embrasure and looked out. The weird cry continued to fill the darkness, ancl a large crowd had gathered, servants with flaring torches marching ahead of two or three open carriages, drawn by fine Arabian horses — equipages unusual enough in themselves in 1900 to have attracted excited attention. Within the first sat a lady wrapped in a lovely 92 ARAB WEDDINGS white silk barracan, two black women servants with her, to whose elastic throats the pene- trating tremolo was due. Behind came other servants and carriages, the procession followed by a motley crowd of onlookers. This joyful company proved to consist of the mother of a prospective bridegroom, who with her servants and friends was announcing to the world that a new daughter-in-law was about to come to her home. The sound itself is made far back in the throat by women who add a strange and pene- trating quiver, almost impossible to copy, a weirdly joyous effect indescribable. The same sound is made for other kinds of approaching good, as when some old person has at last saved money enough to get to Mecca and is about to start. He or she always hopes that death may come in the sacred city, one old woman I saw just leaving for her journey being pathetically eager to get there before her failing limbs should utterly collapse. The glad tidings of an imminent wedding 93 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS thus announced, the next night (Thursday, a favorite night for weddings) another and larger procession filled the streets usually so quiet, men in ghostly barracans leading the merry-makers. Following were numerous blacks, Sudanese from the south, beating drums, burning red fire and letting off some- thing in the nature of firecrackers ; a company of small boys marched at the side bearing aloft lanterns and torches. The happy bridegroom walked in the midst, taking this cheerful fare- well of bachelorhood. For hours the parading victim and his friends traversed the streets in general jollification, ended by his giving them a fine banquet toward three in the morning at some cafe or public house. While these obvious events were in progress on the second night, the bride was being quietly conveyed by her friends to the bridegroom's house, with a less noticeable flourish of trum- pets but none the less jubilee, and placed in charge of his mother. She had probably never seen her prospective lord or any other man ex- 94 p fco t-l ARAB WEDDINGS cept her father and young brothers since early childhood. No girl older than twelve or thir- teen goes into the street even shrouded, nor until she has been some time married; and she may not, of course, see any man but the near- est home relatives in the domestic courtyard. The two families had arranged this suitable match. They were of similar social and finan- cial standing, and everything was perfectly understood and agreeable to all concerned. During Thursday, occasionally the day before, the bridegroom will have gone to the mosque for certain formalities, but it is never neces- sary for the bride to appear there. On Friday occurs the real celebration — that part of the ceremony most interesting to the visitor; and to this I was formally bidden, a summons not to be lightly regarded. One of the best houses in Tripoli, the central court- yard was finely paved with pale green tiles, balconies and woodwork matching the same delicate shade. Windows and open doorways gave access to the rooms within ; and all avail- 95 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS able space — galleries, rooms, court — was filled with female friends of the high con- tracting parties. In a line around the sides sat forty or fifty women, attractively youthful in aspect, but powdered to ghastly whiteness, and with vivid crimson triangles painted on either cheek. Their eyebrows were heavily emphasized in black, meeting above the nose and extending across the temples to the hair. Brilliant ani- line dyes, so dearly loved in the East that they have nearly superseded the soft old vegetable colours of a more artistic past, appeared in dazzling combination. Short skirts, full trou- sers, blouses, sleeveless jackets, silk and velvet, all thickly embroidered in gold and silver, showed every conceivable colour — crimson, pink, scarlet, yellow, cobalt-blue, grass-green — until brocades and gauze, flowers, chains, bracelets, all melted into one bewildering whole, overpoweringly brilliant, gaudy, theatrical.. The little bride, rigidly immovable as the changeless etiquette of centuries has decreed, 96 ARAB WEDDINGS center of all eyes, sat in a conspicuous position among these very gorgeous attendant ladies, herself more magnificent than any, a veritable riot of colour. Her velvets and silks in trousers and blouse, the silver gauze floating from her tightly braided black hair, the brocade vest, gilt slippers, pounds of earrings hanging from half a dozen holes in each ear, yards of golden sequins wound about her slender throat, and equal yards of flower corollas woven in chains, and depending in festoons about her white and crimson cheeks — each was bigger or longer or brighter or heavier than those of the others, as indeed was quite fitting for this one great epoch in her life. Utterly quiet indeed sat the youthful bride, her hands, henna-dyed to reddish blackness, painted with gold in conventional pattern to the wrist, outspread upon her knees, while a lady at each side fanned her with assiduous devotion in the breathless heat. No turn of the head or motion of an eyelid indicated that she was aware of her exalted position, and when 97 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS the sun, creeping around in his downward path, sent one straight arrow-shaft directly into her face, not a wink or blink disturbed her open-eyed composure. The two nearest at- tendants, however, after anxiously looking at one another for an instant, appeared to come to the unanimous decision that this was an occasion demanding heroic action; and gently pushing the bride to an upright position, placed one of her feet before the other, bearing most of her weight upon their own shoulders, and finally succeeded in steering her across the courtyard to a seat on the shady side, like a particularly stiff-jointed doll. Meantime black women from the desert, seated flat upon the tiled floor, continued to beat upon tom-toms and pound cymbals, accom- panied by a most barbarous chant, which ap- peared to give great satisfaction to the guests, most of whom were regaling themselves at bowls of cus-cus and other delicacies, each with her long-handled spoon. During certain hours for three days this sitting 98 ARAB WEDDINGS in state would continue, and for a month or more the new daughter-in-law would be the guest of honour, waited upon, watched with much at- tention, and allowed no part in work or worry. The bridal chamber was very magnificent with rugs and divans, gold-embroidered pil- lows, curtains, the walls draped with oriental hangings — and everywhere were women anci babies and toddling children, examining, eat- ing, laughing, contented, joyous. The bride's father had had the four regu- lation wives, and was once the proud parent of over fifty children, but only about fourteen had lived beyond babyhood : a small family for Mohammedan Tripoli, as he sadly told me on another occasion. Most picturesque of all the figures among the wedding guests were three or four Bedouins from the desert, brown-faced, dark- eyed women, the impress of weather upon their russet-red cheeks, and hands and arms, hair and throats were weighted with silver chains, their ears heavy with silver ornaments, a life- 99 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS time's wealth. They seemed intensely inter- ested in the lighter-haired stranger and her peculiar clothes, intimating by quite intelligible signs that they would like to have their pictures taken with the little camera they noticed under her arm, posing themselves like eager children. I had hoped to get a few photographs of this striking scene, but had not attempted it, knowing the superstitious feeling of many Arabs on the subject. Now, however, I spoke to the hostess, the bridegroom's mother, through my companion, an English lady ac- complished in Arabic, and asked if I might be permitted to take a photograph or two. After a moment of interpreting, her mean- ing was quite clear — there was no objection to my taking anything so long as I omitted the bride; she was quite sure her son would not like his new wife's face to be caught in a camera: otherwise I might take what I chose. The light, however, was already waning, so that I exposed but three films; and bidding adieu to the festive scene, I retreated. ioo ARAB WEDDINGS That evening as we were finishing our din- ner about eight o'clock, came a distracted Arab gentleman of charming manners but much per- turbation of spirit, bringing as interpreter one of the English residents. Talking with great rapidity, his fez very much on one side, his face the picture of woe, he confided ghastly fears for his life. Speedily translated into English, the burden of his tale appeared that the husbands of all the ladies who were guests at his wedding festivities had each taken an alarm lest his particular wives might have been photographed when I turned the camera on the various balconies and groups. " And now they lie in wait for me at every corner," he continued, his face pale and drawn. " There will be feuds and family disturbances for generations, and bloodshed," he went on excitedly. " They will have my life! " " That is certainly unpleasant," I said, " and embarrassing for you; but why should they take my innocent little camera so seriously? " " Ah, but a man might develop the nega- 101 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS tives," he replied, " and so see their faces — or you might show them when you get home (is it so far?) ; or some — some man (a Chris- tian!) might see those faces. And they will not forgive that it was in my house these fatali- ties occurred." And the poor fellow, who had a fine, open face, almost wrung his hands in the extremity of his distress. Seeing that it behooved me if possible to rescue him from all his horrors, I told him he might have the films from the camera, just as they were, undeveloped. Then there could be no danger of my carrying away forbidden faces to any lands where they might be looked upon by the unregenerate. He beamed with joy, pocketed them radi- antly, and with a thousand thanks bowed him- self out into the waiting retributions of the night, now shorn of their powers. The eager development of the film revealed no record. 1 02 u en 1) -a c« XVI Wedding Preliminaries The early days of a wedding week were full of strange interest. On Monday festivities usually began at the bride's home. On arrival we found a great as- semblage of very resplendent ladies in yards of gold coins and necklaces, incredibly heavy ear- rings, bracelets to the elbow of the usual soft, thick gold; silver and gold gauze, and blue, green, crimson or yellow silk ; violently painted faces, sleeveless jackets of royal purple or wine- coloured velvet, embroidered thickly in gold, with silk barracans lightly draped. Here and there were other brown Bedouins, fascinating creatures with short, strong white teeth, red handkerchiefs tied coquettishly over their black hair, pounds of silver clasps and chains, earrings and bracelets; bare feet and open, trustful faces, 103 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Some of the ladies were tightly wrapped in thin white barracans, hardly the one allowable eye exposed. They stood timidly together, most careful not to let their faces be seen even for an instant, though none but women were present. Certain husbands in Tripoli were known as especially opposed to their wives ever venturing out of the home, even tightly swathed, and were they recognized here, some mischief-making person might report their probably surreptitious presence. It was whis- pered that one or two would probably then receive a beating. On this occasion we were invited to the gallery and looked down upon the brilliantly decked assembly. After a time the door of the bride's room opposite was quietly, cautiously opened, the negro women who always supply music on these occasions gathering around it, with much chanting and beating on drums, and with them a little girl carrying a lovely old silver lamp in which incense was burning. First to emerge were women bearing a fine rectangular cushion 104 WEDDING PRELIMINARIES of crimson velvet embroidered in gold. Others followed with a bushel basket full of dried henna leaves. All went carefully down the stairway with their burdens into the open court- yard below, placing the henna on the central cushion. A huge black Sudanese servant came next, carrying with greatest care an immense mir- ror in a gilt frame. Supported and guided on either hand by gorgeous females came the shrouded figure of the bride, gracefully wrapped in a cloth-of-gold barracan, brought around to a point on top of her head, the two sides evidently basted together, completely to cover the face. Her crimson velvet slippers were embroidered in gold, and she stepped slowly and cautiously, both as befitted a tem- porarily blinded lady, and one occupying for the time so exalted a position. As close as possible to the mirror she was kept, facing it all the way around the gallery, still accom- panied by the guiding friend and incense bearer, then, with some difficulty, down the 105 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS stairs. All this occupied nearly half an hour. Once below, she walked impressively to the middle of the courtyard, where the mirror was held close to the cushion and its basket. Step- ping between, she seated herself in the basket facing the mirror, her attendants adjusting the barracan for her greater comfort, and, once seated, jumping her gently up and down on the yielding leaves. The henna was picked up in handfuls by her friends, passed over her, given into her hands under her draperies, and put entirely over and about her. Pressing her face close to the mirror, she opened the barracan to gaze at herself, while her friends spread their own draperies out as a shield, that by no chance could a glimpse of her face be caught from any angle. This part of the ceremony savoured greatly of mystery, and was evidently symbolic. No Mohammedan woman with whom I talked, no matter how friendly or how long the acquaintance, was ever willing to ex- plain this performance. All seemed to regard it as too sacred for discussion, and always 1 06 WEDDING PRELIMINARIES changed the subject if I broached it, although ever ready to talk upon all other aspects of these occasions. Finally the big black picked up the mirror once more, and began his return march up- ward, bride and attendants following; cushion and basket were removed, and the company dis- persed. The bride retreated to her own room, and the door was fastened, her friends not be- ing supposed to see her again until evening, when the more intimate would take supper with her, in the closed room. But as we were strangers, and soon leaving, we were invited in then and there. The bride was seated on the floor, five or six especial friends about, her beautiful barracan off, and wearing a pretty dress of simple red and white cotton. She was an especially attractive girl, bright and whole- some, with an expression of humour and strength rare in Tripoli. A fortunate man, her husband to be, who had not yet seen his new wife! 107 XVII Another Mohammedan Wedding For two or three nights we had been again aroused by weird processions, and the day fol- lowing the third, a closely veiled native woman came to escort us to another " sitting out " of a bride. It was at a house in an entirely un- familiar part of the city. The streets were narrower, and not a foreigner was seen, as we rapidly approached the festive courtyard. It was absolutely packed with humanity when we arrived, so that we were invited to the gallery, as a better view-point. Flocks of exquisite white pigeons were flying in and out everywhere, swooping down from the blue above, crossing the housetop, almost alighting, and then — off again in the sun- shine. Looped across one corner of the gal- lery were strings of dreadful meat, several 108 ANOTHER MOHAMMEDAN WEDDING pieces of which had been thrown on the floor for a cat, whose possession of the dainties was being vigorously disputed by a creeping baby not more than six or seven months old. All the guests were of course very gayly arrayed, a few as before keeping themselves tightly shrouded, as if they had secretly stolen out of their own harems and feared recogni- tion. One or two handsome Turkish women were present, some well-dressed blacks, and again a few splendidly picturesque Bedouins in magnificent silver. One of these old women seemed to possess a veritable gift of humour; she showed her strong white teeth in many hearty laughs, her red turban was set rakishly on one side, her long veil caught by a fine fili- gree silver disk, and her fingers were deeply henna-dyed. As usual, black women sat upon the court- yard floor, beating strange drums and chanting in peculiar rhythm, one of them becoming to all appearance absolutely intoxicated with her own performance, her four straight, spiked, 109 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS jessamine blossoms vibrating over one ear, the whole body swaying in joyous unison to the tempo of her barbaric song. Several women had brought babies, some of whom appeared fairly healthy and strong, but more were very pale and indifferent. Babies in Tripoli were supposed to eat anything handy — meat, yellow bread from the street, fruit, or whatever their parents enjoyed; and if a woman could not nurse her baby its chances for life were very slight. Infant mortality was appalling. One tiny mite was evidently dying on the spot; not a particle of flesh on its wee arms and legs, on which the skin hung in folds. It was perfectly white, and breathing with difficulty, yet its mother was dandling it, trying to amuse its closing eyes, and pre- tending to herself that it was like other little babies. Near us on the gallery was a carefully guarded door of pale green, with handsome drop handles of brass, watched by a stout and ancient grandmother of the bride (rather care- no ANOTHER MOHAMMEDAN WEDDING less of her barracan), who held it shut as final stages of the bridal toilet went on. Half a dozen intimate friends now entered to view the heroine, then a few more, then the black women with tambourines to escort her down, and four little girls with tiny lighted candles. On the way a small boy disputed candle-bearing rights, and sent one little girl off in bitter tears, while he triumphantly joined the procession in her place. This bride was enfolded in a blue striped silk veil, nearly covering very long braids of black hair with heavy silver ornaments at the ends, her dress chiefly wine-coloured velvet and blue velvet, gold embroidered and silver embroid- ered, and silver slippers. She was led down- ward most tenderly, as if she might have been spun glass. A bride is treated with much honour in her husband's house for a month, his mother and all the family vying with each other to relieve her from care and labour. After that she takes her place with the rest, doing even more than her normal share. in TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS At last in the courtyard, the present heroine was put up on a green chest ornamented with brass, evidently containing her treasures; hands and draperies were adjusted, and then: she was turned solemnly around like a lay figure, that all might view her deeply henna- dyed fingers with their gold-leaf ornaments, her fine clothes and jewelry. The veil finally put back, a densely powdered and pink-tri- angled face emerged, blackened eyebrows meet- ing, gilt and coloured paper adornments pasted on chin and forehead, chains of blossoms and all the rest, familiar from the earlier wedding. It was about at this point that we had arrived on the scene of the former ceremony ; for now, having turned this bride around quite suffi- ciently to have produced genuine vertigo, she was gently led off her box and it was carried out. She was placed in a chair against the wall, veil pinned up to fall in folds behind, her hands were spread on her knees, and every one pressed up to examine her costume. There she would sit until dark. 112 XVIII A Jewish-Arab Wedding An Arab wedding among wealthy Jews is differently conducted. Invitations had reached us several days be- fore, and were accepted with vivid interest. The house was a fine one, yet as usual, even with the most prosperous families, situated in a mean and narrow street, approached through what looked like a subterranean passage, wind- ing and full of turns and corners, in the Harah quarter of the city. We finally reached the courtyard, open to the sky, and guarded by servants at the en- trance. Even the walls of the passages lead- ing in were covered by enormously long leaves of the date palm, also the pale-blue walls of the courtyard itself. Woven silk hangings were draped in a variety of ways, with bright silk veils and large handkerchiefs. 113 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Immediately facing the entrance was a raised platform, upon it a sofa and easy-chairs faced each other on either side, making a sort of throne, with fine white barracans of camel's hair and silk. In the center, suspended from cross-beams, was a large, openwork ornament covered with artificial roses, gilt balls and other tinsel. On the undraped sofa were an em- broidered bag and a Tripoli fan like a little flag, only not made this time of straw, but jessamine blossoms on wire. The floor and dais were covered with very good rugs. Above, the gallery was filled with friends, and the roof as well — evidently neighbours had crept along above, and were staring down on the gay scene uninvited. Jewish ladies were collecting in leisurely style, dressed in every imaginable colour, but the effect softened and poeticized by their lovely barracans which when draped allowed only faces, the front of their hair and enormous earrings and neck- laces to be seen. A very few Maltese and Italians came in European dress, but not 114 A JEWISH-ARAB WEDDING enough to spoil the oriental effect. Handsome young Jewish men in fezzes, long broadcloth coats and white shirts flapping outside the large trousers, handed chairs, looked after the guests, and were exceedingly thoughtful and attentive. More and more guests kept arriving, many with children, and the rooms off the courtyard were filled, every grating and window aglow with gazing eyes. The father and mother of the bride, with strong, sweet faces, passed about among their friends, he in fez and round blue turban, she in braided hair, much jewelry and many colours. They and their oldest son together boasted eighteen children. The son was very hand- some. Finally we became conscious of Turkish singing by people hidden from sight, two or three notes, nasal beyond belief, continued iteration, no beginning or ending, no melody, no tonic, no seventh, and very loud. Shortly after, two dignified rabbis in robes ii5 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS and turbans came down the open stairway from the gallery, one very round and fat, the other phenomenally tall and slender, followed by two little girls carrying enormous lighted candles. The mother of the bride and mother of the groom followed, and then the bridal pair. The little bride was plump and pretty, with long, curling black lashes, many colours in jackets and skirts and trousers, and over all a white tulle veil. The groom was a sallow and un- handsome boy. They mounted the little platform, she at his right in seating themselves on the sofa. He at once drew over their heads a silk scarf, quite wide, of white with lavender ends. It was soon dropped off, and they sat still, her eyes demurely cast down; her mother occupied the arm-chair next the groom, his next the bride. One of the rabbis then took a glass of wine, saying a long invocation of some kind over it, drinking a little himself and sending it after- ward to the bridegroom, who put it to his 116 A JEWISH-ARAB WEDDING bride's lips (and spilled a lot down her neck, poor boy!). The same goblet was passed around among the guests, each taking a sip. Then more sonorous words repeated by the rabbi, many responses in unison by the com- pany, the flash of a wedding ring which pre- sumably reached the bride, her veil was lifted — and suddenly glasses of something flavoured with rose water were being passed about, huge blocks of sponge cake, and dessert-spoonfuls of candies, some of bright blue. Very soon all the women guests began to press about the bride, kissing both her cheeks and shaking hands. Finally we went to her and paid our respects, also to the bridegroom's mother and that of the bride, this time our real hostess. On emerging into the cavernous white street, it was still bright daylight, with deep-blue sky blazing in a narrow ribbon above white walls and intermittent masonry arches of pale yel- low, pink, lavender and blue. Camels were claiming right of way, and patient donkeys, 117 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS proud Turks, veiled women, lordly Jews, sober Arabs passed swiftly like theatrical setting. Was it indeed our own world at all — or not, rather, some sudden plunge into the life of a new planet? 118 o o I) C3 o U XIX The Eclipse of 1900 All the instruments were in readiness on the Consulate roof-terrace. All the amateur helpers in various lines of observation — those to draw the corona, to mark time, to watch for and record Baily's Beads, shadow-bands and various minor phenomena — had been care- fully drilled, and the time was nearly at hand. As the day approached, skies seemed to grow constantly clearer. In the dry season no storms were, of course, to be apprehended, yet this did not mean entire immunity from cloud, and the gibleh might start up, thickening the air dangerously for photographing fine fila- ments of the corona. On that fateful Monday morning, however, I awoke from frightful dreams of fog and storm to find a crystal morning with atmosphere of unsurpassed and limpid purity. 119 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Every suggestion of wandering vapour about the horizon disappeared as the morning ad- vanced, and the sky became absolutely trans- parent. In intervals of giving final instruc- tions to workmen and voluntary observers of all nations, and helping here and there, above and below, I kept a wary eye on the sky, but always found it the same tender blue, un- stained. Finally the afternoon came, every one had gathered, rehearsals of the past six days were once more repeated, and the entire Eng- lish colony with a few French and Italians were placed, each at an appointed spot to per- form his part in the eclipse programme. The glare of white roofs was almost blind- ing, the arrogant sun unconscious of his ap- proaching humiliation shining with intensified brilliance, as if to compel human retreat from the terrace. More than two hours before the eclipse reached us, came a telegram from Georgia, announcing the success of observations there — a veritable triumph of man's messenger 120 'So o O THE ECLIPSE OF 1900 over the speed of heavenly bodies, the possi- bility of which had been already demonstrated by Professor Todd in January, 1889, during the California eclipse. In just twenty-nine minutes after the Georgia observations were made, in fourteen from Washington, came the prearranged cipher describing the eclipse at the American end of its track. On my husband's application and by the courtesy of Denison Pender, Esq., General Manager of the extensive lines of the Eastern Telegraph Company, use of their new cables from Gibraltar to Malta and from Malta to Tripoli was granted, enabling this very rapid communication, and the complete worsting of the moon in its race with electricity. The Italian drawing-master and a few of his best pupils were gathered at one corner, plumb-lines before them to indicate the direc- tion of coronal rays in their sketches; near by, the roof had been marked with north and south lines to show direction and speed of shadow-bands, with observers stationed at 121 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS hand; a camera was turned upon that part of the white wall where the shadow of the great tree would fall, that possibly the tiny crescents revealed by its foliage during the partial eclipse might be caught upon the plate ; two or three disks were set up, with observers behind them, to cut off the bright light of the inner corona; thus the long extensions might be more easily seen and depicted. Small tele- scopes to be used visually upon sections of the corona were placed at various points, per- sons to watch the approach of the moon's shadow and its recession — all were expect- ant, waiting; while the real work and effort were concentrated at the ten telescopes and their clockwork, already turned upon that spot in the sky where the sun would be at totality. Every roof all over the city was swarming with humanity, Maltese, Jews, Arabs, Turkish soldiers on their upper ramparts, Franciscan monks on their high-air promenade — even the minarets were crowded, while in the streets 122 The tiny crescents revealed by its foliage during the partial eclipse THE ECLIPSE OF 1900 below a curious crowd collected, craning the universal neck to catch, perchance, a glimpse of the telescopes and the favoured few on the Consulate roof. Whatever " show " was com- ing must be there, and to get a sight of us was the great thing. Only one man in the city- seemed totally oblivious of a spectacle impend- ing, and he, wrapped up in his cashabiya, continued to shake barley in a sieve stupidly, far below in a shaded courtyard. About quarter after four first contact was observed, a bit ahead of time. The faithful moon had crept on and on toward the great moment when she should glide in between us and- the sun, and with her small bulk offer the only screen to his brilliancy which has ever been effective in allowing a sight of the corona to mortal eyes. The first " bite " into his daz- zling disk had been taken, and silently on- creeping, the sun's extinguisher covered more and more of the shining surface until only a stout crescent remained. Even then the light seemed hardly less, the glare of white roofs 123 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS was still painful to unshaded eyes, but there was a slightly different tone in the sunshine. A few moments later it was no longer uncom- fortable to gaze abroad, the colour of every- thing visible was sad, subdued; the sapphire sea became a cold slate, the sky like steel. A few cries ascended from below as the weird quality in the light grew more insistent and the muezzins' prayer call arose, but in general a singular silence prevailed. It became cool and damp, and the swallows emerged in flocks, flying about excitedly in a manner quite unlike their nightly sunset parade. Camels dropped upon their knees, and other animals exhibited much uneasiness. Suddenly the tiny crescent, scarcely more than a thread, shortened from both cusps simul- taneously, and all the bright line broke up into a series of globules or drops, called Baily's Beads, first mentioned by Halley in 171 5, a dainty and beautiful phenomenon. Totality was upon us. It came, not with a majestic leap as at Esashi in 1896, nor in a 124 THE ECLIPSE OF 1900 series of jerks, the effect at Shirakawa in 1887, but in a silent unfolding, inexpressibly majestic and lovely. One second the luminous drops, as the shining crescent broke up — the next, there hung the great black ball of the moon in the clear, gray-purple sky, while around it blossomed the exquisite corona, like some fair flower of celestial light. Two long streamers below, the upper edge of one brilliantly shin- ing, the rest soft and silvery, with three equally extended rays above, of interwoven structure and brightly white points, the polar rays short and inconspicuous — this corona glowed in elusive fairy-like beauty above the dreaming desert, while planets emerged in the cool sky, and a hush as of eternal waiting pervaded the still air. Low on the horizon a warm yellow breathed along the shore, but there was none of the majesty of colour, the unearthly effect of a new creation, which made the Esashi eclipse so heart-breakingly superb, so thrilling, so breath- less. Instead, this was normal, tender, lovely, 125 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS full of masterful beauty and power, yet with a peace breathing the very spirit of interplane- tary space, where time is not, where nothing is old, yet never young, in presence of which mere human emotion fades and faints and ut- terly dies away. The great psychic currents of the universe, in their moral and spiritual onrush and splendid vitality, never flow with such an overwhelming, tangible rush as in these moments of cosmic silence, of repressed, superb possibility. I looked for twenty seconds — and never did they flee with such amazing speed — and for thirty more I sketched the streamers with prosaic pencil and paper. It was like attempt- ing to catch the solar system in a bird-cage. A needle-shaft of true, returning sunlight flashed over the world, and again that strange, invariable sigh from the hushed multitude, as of tension relaxed, rose from the streets like a veritable tribute to immensity. Totality was over. But gravity all the time had been doing its 126 THE ECLIPSE OF 1900 work, and more than a hundred exposures made during those fifty seconds, the whole mechanism so perfectly planned that as the fiftieth second closed, the sand weights just touched the courtyard pavement below ; and on each plate a clear picture of the corona with- out the touch of a human hand, except to re- lease the pin at the beginning for the mechan- ism to operate. The other telescopes had also made their record; and a fruitful harvest of amateur sketches was garnered. All the natives insisted that totality was pre- ceded by "a thick smoke," undoubtedly the moon's onrushing shadow over the white city. But it is contrary to their religion to investigate the workings of nature, so that when questioned about the eclipse they would not make any de- tailed comments upon what they saw. They have a curious fear of extolling the creature above the Creator, and in general all they would say was "Allah is Almighty," "His works are wonderful," and other indis- putable propositions of a similar nature. A 127 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS very few, only, ventured to talk of what they saw, and that without betraying any sentiment of admiration or wonder. Beautiful, brief totality! Its tantalizing hint of solar secrets made more definite the plan of attack for another eclipse. 128 XX The Pianura Market The Tuesday market, Suk el-Thalath, is held in a huge open space beyond the city, along the wide beach. Almost an epitome of the city's varied life, products of native industry appear in primitive guise. On the outskirts are crowded animals for sale, regiments of camels, here and there a white one or a baby camel, goats in great flocks, kids, little cows, sheep, donkeys, ponies; and bales of esparto grass, through which comes a large part of the actual income of the city. It grows wild on the hilly boundary between barren dunes and arable oases, generally indicating absence of other vegetation. Loads of two hundred weight each are brought in large nets, the camels quite concealed by their verdant burden. The tiny tents arose in a night, a weekly no- 129 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS madic city in street after street, one devoted to vendors of meat, product of unfamiliar ani- mals in unknown shapes; curious vegetables occupied the attention of one tent-lane, with apricots and mulberries ; another street showed coral, roughly shaped to native uses; near by, sponges, gathered close at hand by Greek fishermen; one was exclusively occupied by the boys and women who make straw covers, oddly woven with bits of gayly coloured cloth, as protection to the precious cus-cus from dust or insects; still another miniature highway showed only coarse cotton bonnets for babies, ornamented with bright wool in varying de- signs. One old woman selling a sort of ban- dana handkerchief had large cylinders of red coral stuck through each nostril. Smooth-haired goats were led about by a horn or an ear, tiny cows were urged hither and yon, and people, goods, animals were so closely packed that movement was almost impossible. Upon the wide white beach no less than ten 130 An anxious mother Straw covers . . . protection to the precious cus-cus THE PIANURA MARKET thousand natives would assemble for this Tuesday sale and barter. Bedouins, proud and silent, frequently prosperous, yet spending less for daily living than the poorest European labourer, stalked about, inspecting bargains. No wares were there to attract moneyed strangers, only things the native wants and will buy; no attempts at English to flatter the passing purchaser, but only the motley resi- dents were considered — even the lordly Arab in white deigning to supply himself here, and proceeding homeward to some far oasis of the desert, sometimes on a blooded horse covered with gay leather and brass and silver trap- pings, his draperies eddying in the wind, and ten feet of gun protruding; frequently sitting far back on his patient donkey laden as well with family necessities for a week to come. With all its polyglot life of caravan and sil- versmith, wine merchant and ivory seller, camel market and carpet bazar, these hot Tuesday mornings on the sands seem sometimes in retrospect the very spirit of the white city's 131 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS singular charm. The iridescent Mediterra- nean, breaking in gentlest ripples against a shining beach, white walls and domes and castle in the distance, and close at hand camels and horses, baskets and rugs, coral and silver, and the surging life of thousands — shrouded Arabs, uncovered blacks and befezzed Turks — all this was Tripoli in essence, under the burning blue of an African sky. An intensely picturesque black man sur- rounded by a wild group of Fezzani was hold- ing them enthralled by his tales, until their grasping hands relaxed, their purchases fell to the sand, and they literally hung upon his words in breathless tension. A few rods far- ther on, an ancient negress with ears and nose stuck full of bars of red coral, and fuzzy wool to match, seated flat on the beach, was holding forth similarly to an enchained audience. Her voice carried me miles out into the desert. I heard the winds of great Sahara play about my head and the elemental spirit of space utter its unapprehended wisdom. 132 Camel laden with esparto grass By noon the crowd disperses THE PIANURA MARKET The prevalence of fiery red wool among negresses was somewhat surprising, and its explanation rather more so. Nothing, it seems is so much dreaded by these simple women as the appearance of white streaks among the black, and at the first shadowy suggestion of approaching grayness immediate resort is had to the dyepot, a brilliant vermilion, seemingly, the only available tint. Hence the frequent but strangely amusing combination, the start- ling effect, of ebony faces surmounted by; orange-scarlet wool. By noon the crowd disperses, and the open beach is left once more to its normal white smoothness; tents are gone, animals have trotted away, nationalities are scattered, and one of the most picturesque events in the life of Tripoli is over for a week. i33 XXI Bread Market and Caravans For many years Tripoli had almost a mo- nopoly of the caravan trade. The city is the Mediterranean Mecca for long lines of camels streaming in from depths of desert spaces, bringing ivory and gold dust, ostrich feathers and gums, wax and tanned leather, sometimes mats and henna, and using three or four months or longer for their deliberate progress. Returning probably before the year is out, here begin the principal routes of commerce from Barbary to the far interior oases, carrying in exchange Manchester prints, tea and sugar. Fanatical Tuaregs, their faces shrouded in veils as well as barracan, closed palanquins on the best camels for the concealment of accom- panying (supposable) beauty, and barbarous musicians of the desert, made a strange pro- i34 4) PQ BREAD MARKET AND CARAVANS cession, often taking hours for entire arrival after the leading dromedaries had appeared. The Tttaregs have never been conquered. Fully twenty thousand in number, no treachery or cruelty seems too great for them to inflict upon foreigners of the hated Christian belief unhappy enough to get into their power. Yet, besides their abnormally long guns, many mem- bers of the caravans I watched, even Tuaregs themselves, carried Crusader swords, with the cross for a handle, and many swarthy girls of certain tribes had small blue-black crosses tattooed between the eyebrows, a racial mark far removed from its original significance and all unthought of by these loyal adherents of the prophet. Caravans for the Sudan take either the Fezzan or the Ghadames route, practically the same as far as the oasis of Misda, south of the Gharian mountains, where the caravans sometimes halt in their long march. Fezzan is an archipelago of oases, those islands of the desert. Warmer than Tripoli in climate, it 135 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS is supposed to have about one hundred thou- sand inhabitants. Like other North African regions, the camel is the chief domestic ani- mal, but a few foxes, gazelles and antelopes are kept. Fanaticism, greed and intolerance have kept Europeans out of the oasis of Ghat; Moslems only are allowed there. It is the gateway to the western Sahara of Tripoli. In Zellah and Tirsa ostriches are raised. Beyond this point those bound for the western Sudan follow the southwest route to Gha- dames; and to Bornu Kuka or the places on Lake Tchad by the southeast route, far more difficult. The way for those starting from Benghazi is considered very dangerous for Europeans. But Tripoli seems the natural connecting link between Europe and Africa. In past years European merchandise was stored here until time for a caravan to set out for the Sudan, and African goods also waited here for transportation across the Mediterranean. 136 BREAD MARKET AND CARAVANS Commerce with the interior was constant, and ostrich feathers, elephant tusks, skins, even gold, came up in quantities by caravan from Bornu and Uadai, in exchange for Manchester cloths, Venetian glass-ware, and goods from southern France. Prosperous merchants, send- ing off wares into desert depths, heard nothing for months, sometimes for years, of their fate. Frequently all hope was abandoned, but when a returning caravan was actually sighted, camels slow and weary, men hungry, thirsty, sunburned, all Tripoli went out to the city gates, and the train was met with such rejoic- ing welcome as is rarely accorded home-com- ing wanderers in more civilized regions. Five hundred or even a thousand camels used to be dispatched. Now, although Tripoli is still the point of departure for such expeditions, they are smaller and far more infrequent. One of the picturesque quarters of the city is the square which on certain days is used as the bread market, where hundreds of Arabs crouch all day under their barracans in the 137 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS hot sunshine, keeping guard over loaves of bright yellow and other tints, unhygienic but artistic. The scene was always quaint and al- luring. Near by in a shaded corner the white caps worn under the fez were sold, and men and animals filled the open spaces with a tumul- tuous yet strangely silent life. To me this bread market will always be as- sociated with one memorable morning. For the first time in many months a caravan had been sighted, and was even then beginning to arrive, after ten months' weary crossing of the well-nigh limitless desert. The camels stepped slowly, heavily laden with huge bales securely tied up — ivory and gold dust, skins and feathers. On the saddles were gay rugs and blankets, a few good saddle-bags, but gen- erally uninteresting in pattern and quality. Wrapped in dingy drapery and carrying guns ten feet long, swarthy Bedouins led the weary camels across the sun-baked square. In the singular and silent company marched a few genuine Tuaregs, black veils strapped tightly 138 v £ "3 o C5 T3 O BREAD MARKET AND CARAVANS over their faces, and enshrouded in black or dark brown wraps, unlike the barracan. In their opinion even the veils were hardly pro- tection against the impious glances of hated Christians, and with attitudes expressive of the utmost repulsion and ferocity they turned aside, lest a glance might be met in passing. All were ragged beyond belief and incredibly dirty. Over two hundred and fifty camels composed the train, one or two carrying tightly closed palanquins in which favorite wives rode in safe retirement. Arabs, Bedouins, Tuaregs even, looked worn and tired; and far out into the desert stretched the incoming horde. Once only during our months in Tripoli an important caravan set forth from the city for the far south. Word came one day during luncheon that about three hundred men and camels were just ready for departure. Hasten- ing to the famous " three palms " from which the start was made, we found a scene of great activity. Numerous camels, already loaded, i39 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS were hobbled and waiting for the start. Bales still covered the ground, and many animals were kneeling to receive their burdens. The leader, a racing camel, with high Tuareg saddle, watched us intelligently with an ex- pression of alert though impersonal interest. I took a few pictures, manifestly an operation not very pleasing to the busy Arabs, and for several hours we remained in the vicinity, fas- cinated by the strange scene. Toward five, though all was not yet in readi- ness, forty or fifty camels and their masters set out slowly from the city for the first short stage of their immense journey. Camp would be made that night near by, where all late comers would join the main body; and next day, a unit, the train would leave comforts behind for weary months. 140 Bales still covered the ground The leader, a racing camel with high Tuareg saddle XXII Music and Musicians A strange, hypnotic quality characterized the native music of Tripoli. Various crude instruments were used, goatskins in the hands of Sudanese, strange flageolets, cymbals, stringed instruments; the street singing, story telling and weird chants performed by black women at Arab weddings, all had some pecu- liar effect very hard to analyze. The death dirge rising from a near-by courtyard through- out a whole night carried a wail of despair from which no escape seemed possible. The Turkish military band discoursed most amaz- ing music, always ending with a blessing on the Sultan in unison. But this was merely interesting, not terrifying. Sometimes at dawn, when roofs and mina- rets were dazzlingly white against the sap- 141 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS phire sky, already shining in affluent sunlight while yet the labyrinthine streets at the bot- tom of stucco canons lay in twilight gray, strange men from the desert would stalk by, making uncanny music. One of them, very tall and blacker than most, was dressed in a low-necked, short-sleeved garment, greatly ab- breviated as to skirts; playing melodies in a minor mode unknown to the West, his stride was full of a dignity well-nigh appalling. Once or twice I tried to write these melodies in our own familiar notation, but it would have been as easy to transcribe the wind or surf-beat on the sand. The instrument slightly re- sembled a Scotch bagpipe, decorated with bar- baric strings of shells and beads — an inflated skin with primitive mouthpiece, and at the op- posite end two pointed projections like horns. These he held in either hand, and might almost have passed for the Japanese god of winds, blowing alternately, as the freak took him, typhoons and hurricanes, or zephyrs only strong enough to waft cherry-blossom petals 142 1) '5, o 6 T5 a MUSIC AND MUSICIANS from the bough ; except that no element of the humourous crossed the stern, implacable face of this son of the desert, high with lofty thought of gods and fates. His companion beat upon a curious little tom-tom, now and then singing a blood-curdling chant. This was hardly easier to transcribe into familiar nota- tion than the mournful bag-pipe, yet the rhythm was marked and unchanging, and as nearly as notes can express it, the following : — fe^gS^S^g^fS^gg^ £*3 *3 ■z*- £5 S3| mgm i £=^ "2=1- 3t* **S f a o -fe^- 8 —±:f^: ^=^^^m H3 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Distinctly major, yet it joined harmoniously with the moan of the instrument, quite as definitely not major. Black boys following, jumped, shouted, danced like wild creatures, excited beyond all bounds by this oddly compelling music, as the rhythm penetrated and seized their imagination. Generally passing about sunrise, these men of mystery sometimes went by in the night, the weird performance once or twice taking place about two o'clock in the morning. The min- strels always walked with peculiar swiftness, intent upon the serious business in hand. Lis- tening for long to the mystic strains, a singular influence was discernible. One had actually to exercise distinct self-control not to follow after these enticing sounds, whithersoever they might beckon. Hardly less insistent was an old woman who played upon a gimbei, like an undeveloped banjo, and sang in a high and cracked but tire- less voice words apparently fraught with dis- astrous meaning, bringing to mind grewsome 144 Taking her station against some while wall MUSIC AND MUSICIANS stories of desert depths. Taking her station against some white wall, prickly pears high above her head against the blue, she chanted for hours, surrounded by a fascinated audi- ence gradually augmenting as her climaxes approached. One of the favourite African pro- fessions, apparently, this intoning stories to a circle of listeners. There is more in it than mere sound. I have been myself transported bodily into the depths of Sahara by these monotonously chanted tales. I have felt the free winds blow in my face as the racing dromedary bore me on to strange scenes over moonlit sands. 145 XXIII Turkish Exiles and Others Redjed Pasha, Governor of Tripoli, a gen- tleman of much intelligence, was deeply inter- ested in the coming eclipse, and even offered his castle, once the ancient citadel, as site for telescopes and cameras, and headquarters for the expedition. Frequently he called upon us at the Consulate, inspecting progress in mount- ing apparatus, and expressing his certainty that Allah would grant clear skies on the im- portant day. The Pasha's nearest officers were socially delightful men of the world, thor- oughly cultivated, speaking several languages, who made our stay memorable in various thoughtful ways. On our earlier visit his official call was made with his retinue and much gold and glory on May 24, the Queen's birthday. 146 V. o Xi a, T3 T3 TURKISH EXILES AND OTHERS In 1905 his first call was also made in state. All the gorgeous cavasses were double lined to receive him, the British flag was hoisted and the Consul-General and the Astronomer met him on the gallery. Three resplendent officers accompanied him, in red fezzes and perfect European dress. After refreshments and necessary compliments, the Pasha con- fessed that he was deeply curious about the telescopes and the way the Astronomer was planning to observe the eclipse. Then with his retinue he proceeded to the roof-terrace where our own little American flag was flying, and examined thoroughly all the apparatus. He said it would please him if we would photo- graph him and his officers with the Astronomer, which was gladly done. The good Pasha quite took us under his protection. People stood up against walls to see us go by, day after day, in charge of one imperial officer after another and in different carriages; once or twice with three white horses abreast, which could i47 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS barely make their way through the crowded thoroughfares. As Tripoli was a sort of colony for political suspects, a good many exiles lived in the white city who brought the very atmosphere of Con- stantinople with them, the elegance, the grace of living which no transportation could dis- guise. One of these was F Bey, a hand- some young man near to the Pasha in the castle, of great wealth and high family, who was still trying to find out why he was exiled. Unconscious of having thought or said, much less done, anything disloyal to the Sultan, he unexpectedly and very suddenly found himself in Tripoli, forbidden to return " for the pres- ent." He had sent for his mother and sister, elegant women of rank, in whose society, at their secluded but richly appointed home, we found the greatest pleasure. This, however, was before the " Young Turk " movement and during the reign of Abdul Hamid II. The recall of our friend to his former haunts fol- lowed the coming of more liberal ideas. 148 One of these . . . was still trying to find out why he was exiled TURKISH EXILES AND OTHERS Many other interesting exiles were banished from Constantinople for they knew not what imaginary offense or suspected crime, but their loyalty to the Sultan seemed unshaken, their almost daily hope of return pathetically unquenched. Old Etim Bey especially, speaking only Turkish, debarred from returning because he " knew too much," became a warm friend, in- viting us constantly to his chaotic house, full of curios, photographs, musical instruments, guns, pistols, cameras, inventions from the world over — even an automobile which would not go, and could not have been navigated in Tripoli's uncertain streets had it ever so good a will to go. Learned Jewish rabbis speaking and writing only Hebrew called frequently, telling many a tale of intense interest and significance of the region and its history. In the roadstead lay always several men of war, Italian, French, English, among them an old Turkish craft supposed hardly seaworthy 149 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS enough to get out of harbour if escape were necessary, but upon whose ample decks delight- ful hospitality was dispensed by her officers. The first foreign lady to be invited on board, I felt the honour of that position when the chief officer and the Captain of the Port came for us in the launch. Rowed by stout Turkish arms, we rapidly approached the old wooden cruiser, the star and crescent ensign floating proudly at our stern. The Commander met us at the gangway, the crew all standing at attention as we came on board; and coffee, sweetmeats and cigarettes were served at once on the clean and breezy afterdeck. More sub- stantial refreshments were offered later in the Commander's airy cabin. The ship's guns, probably fiercer in appearance than in action, added much to the decorative effect. A Greek warship, the Crete, modern in every appointment, looking particularly after the sponge-divers and their interests, brought a number of extremely intelligent and agree- able young officers, who entertained on board 150 his chaotic house full of curios TURKISH EXILES AND OTHERS with much elegance, and gave valuable assist- ance in our eclipse observations. Nothing mediaeval or rusty characterized the Crete; she was a fine, clean, up-to-date naval vessel. Delicious luncheons were served; among other sweetmeats was a Greek fig paste, quite different from the Turkish rah hat lu cum, yet somewhat similar in flavour. The Consul-General of Great Britain and the Vice-Consul, the head of the cable service, one or two gentlemen in business and in charge of the export to England of feathers, ivory or esparto grass, an English medical mis- sionary who was a trained engineer, the French and Italian Consuls — these friends with their families brought every curious and valuable aspect of the region to our attention, showed us how to utilize times and seasons to the best advantage, and out of the expe- rience of long residence gave untold assistance in our study of all these strange surroundings. Many dinner-parties I remember on galleries overlooking beautiful courtyards where shaded 151 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS lights gleamed through palm and vine, the de- licious drip of falling fountains filled the warm air, and soft- footed, white-robed Arab servants appeared and disappeared with the certainty and timeliness of a happy fate. The city did remain quiescent in the sense of world progress, but its charm, untranslat- able yet potent, was never to be resisted. 152 o -a o ; o XXIV Mosques From any roof terrace in Tripoli a dozen minarets and countless domes could be seen.. The beautiful white city of Barbary was Mohammedan to the core, fanatical, sober, dignified. Five times a day, as faithfully as in Constantinople itself, shrouded muezzins emerged upon their lofty towers, calling the faithful to prayer in varying melodies of two or three notes invariably founded upon the harmonic minor scale, the seventh frequently omitted — a peculiarity of many less civilized races. Occasionally, as if by accident, a major third sounded with unexpected effect. The quality of tone is singularly penetrating, but generally unmusical. Melodies were varied, one being almost a chant in impressive solem- 153 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS nity, while another was always several times re- ^^3 — J — i^ i peated. Unfailingly a third muezzin reiterated ±1 # -& Until our advent the mosques, unlike those of Algiers, had never been profaned by infidel footsteps. They were closed tightly against Christians. Through an ornate green doorway opposite the Roman arch, where constantly sat a melancholy leper awaiting possible alms, I had often caught glimpses, past entering wor- shipers, of a dark but lovely interior, with the faint, characteristic tinkle of running water. Not, however, until we had spent several weeks in the city was sufficient influence brought to bear to admit us to the sacred precincts, and then we were conducted by the head dragoman of the British Consulate, cavasse and inter- preter, an imposing yet kindly Arab, and one of the mosque's most dignified officers. A truly royal man in appearance, he was often most 154 Where constantly sat a melancholy leper awaiting possible alms MOSQUES gorgeously arrayed. On the queen's birthday in 1900, when Turkish officials paid their calls of state upon Her Majesty's representative, Mufta was resplendent in yellow brocade and gold with white silk barracan. Later in the day he wore a scarlet, gold-embroidered uni- form. But on the occasion when we accom- panied him to his great, seventeen-domed mosque, he was covered only by the plain barracan of devotion. Within the forbidden sanctuary, I first no- ticed two enormous Turkey carpets, a hundred years old, covering the floor, except a narrow space between, where a number of worshipers had set their slippers. Each of the domes arch- ing above the great room showed delicate stucco forms, almost as fine as the lace-like decoration of the Alhambra, vividly yet artis- tically coloured, with different quotations from the Koran at their base as a frieze. Filigree silver lamps hung from above, and a marble pulpit, reached by a long flight of steps, its rail also of marble, rose upon the side toward 155 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS Mecca; a less ornate but similar erection ap- peared on the opposite wall, whence an assist- ant reader had some part in Friday services. The pleasant sound of running water, a dis- tinctive feature of Mohammedan mosques, es- pecially welcome in this dry and sun-baked land, filled the great edifice with a gentle mur- mur. A few devout Moslems entered, made their genuflexions and withdrew softly. Not essentially different, except in its numerous domes, from the ancient mosques in Algiers which are readily open to visitors, it was of greater interest in never having before ad- mitted unbelievers, and there was no sugges- tion of " effect," with an eye toward tourist appreciation. With an excess of courtesy, however, we were even permitted to ascend the slender green and white minaret, whence the hooded muezzin had made us familiar with his not always unmelodious intonation. The spiral stairway was decidedly contracted, and lined with reserve stores of small lamps full of oil; 156 MOSQUES so that during the climb I was forced to take my hat, almost my life, in my hand. From the summit a vastly impressive view was gained, over the white city, the sapphire sea, and the yellow desert with its fringe of palms. Interested spectators emerged upon sur- rounding roof-terraces, gazing upward at the unwonted sight of infidels ensconced on the very apex of holiness; but all seemed suffi- ciently friendly, and no suggestion that we should descend was made until the time ap- proached for prayer-call. The great mosque was dusky with twilight as we passed through, a few of the faithful silently prostrate; the narrow streets outside filled with donkeys and goats, vendors, camels, and countless nationalities seemed a different world. But this was not our only experience of closed and hitherto unprofaned sanctuaries. Five years later, by invitation of the Pasha, who sent as our guard several imposing officers i57 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS with yards of sword, we visited others, and heretofore the most inviolate, of these impos- ing edifices, even to the top of another lofty minaret. Manifestly to the consternation and disapproval of the caretakers, we stepped in- side, removed our shoes as one would in a Buddhist temple in Japan, and gazed about the lofty interior. A certain guardian of a mosque peacefully slumbering at his post was sum- marily aroused by one of our Turkish escort with several well-directed blows of the flat of his sword, not necessarily painful except to dignity, but extremely effective for bringing to a sudden end such inopportune naps. One of the most noteworthy mosques is the Jamah Hamed Pasha, near the gate Fum el- Bab. Known as the ' great Caramanli mosque," it has a fine octagonal minaret. Its splendid pillars are of marble, and the walls up to the Koran frieze are formed of tiles, in soft greens and yellows with a bit of blue. The ceilings are decorated with great dignity, and the stair rails of inlaid marble are very 158 o T3 o c OJ C/3 MOSQUES heavy and of good design. On each side of the arched alcove beside the pulpit, where the Imam prays when the muezzin above is call- ing to devotion, are huge brass candelsticks ; beyond, a tall clock. Praying into this niche, the Imam will always face Mecca. A small railed enclosure in one corner cov- ered with a rug served some teacher as ex- pounding ground to a class of young men, but it was primarily for the Friday seat of the Pasha. All the mosques had that feature. The Sidi Dragut is said to contain relics of the prophet. The handsomest minaret, oc- tagonal and lofty, with two balconies, adorns the mosque we had already visited, El-haj Mustafa Gurgeh of the seventeen domes, stand- ing near the British Consulate. A pretty rounded minaret, also close by, was that of the mosque Jamah of Sidi Salem. All have fine and impressive features, and, the Pasha's will being law, we went to six or seven. In one was a carved screen to shelter the few women allowed to attend as a modern conces- 159 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS sion. The Mohammedans were most sincere in their religious convictions and practice, old Mufta of the Consulate being an especially handsome and noble specimen of the high- minded and religious Arab. It is believed by experts in the history of religions that the Arabs are of Semitic stock, idolatry having been, about the time of Mo- hammed, but recently introduced among them. Even before the prophet certain reformers had similar ideals, of whom four of these thought- ful men were contemporaneous. While a most remarkable leader, the character and career of Mohammed were not beyond explanation. Men of the Jewish race were all about, and obli- gation to them was constant. He saw the ad- vantage of having a sacred book, and sought to make alliance with them, but was not will- ing to take their book as the basis of a new religion. Yet borrowing continually from them for the Koran, especially from the Midrash of the Talmud, his perfected scheme shows also the influence of Zoroastrianism. He perhaps 1 60 MOSQUES felt it necessary to make concessions to exist- ing idolatry, as shown in the black stone of the Kaba at Mecca. Mohammed was undoubt- edly sincere in the main, as are his followers to-day. And the constant turning toward Mecca, the utter devotion of the sober faces, became very impressive, as, all occupations in- stantly dropped for the moment, the mind was directed from this world to another. 161 XXV Funerals Frequently funeral processions swept through the streets, swiftly, silently. Over thirty men wrapped in white passed, one burn- ing afternoon, chanting over and over again, very slowly and solemnly: i a ^ ^ -a «&- -&■ e- Two of them carried a coffin raised upon their heads, draped in rich and beautiful brightly striped silk, upon which lay two or three sleeveless jackets of velvet embroidered in gold. Just behind them followed a man bearing upon his head a tiny coffin covered with silk. Still behind walked three Moslem women, tightly wrapped in barracans, each with one dark eye uncovered, not quite so 162 O T3 O FUNERALS bright as usual. The strange, slow chant and swift procession were curiously affecting. Two domes on the headland, conspicuous as the harbour is entered, were long supposed to be tombs of the Caramanli Pashas, but later researches have shown that a certain Sultana, misbehaving in Constantinople, was banished to Tripoli. So homesick as to become really ill, she begged that, dying on that far shore, she might be laid on land projecting as far as possible toward her beloved Constantinople. This accounts for one tomb ; the other is prob- ably that of a Caramanli Pasha. Very beautiful must have been these grace- ful and richly decorated domes. Their ceilings still show a delicate tracery of Moorish stucco, originally lace-like and lovely. The fine green tiles, carved stone sarcophagi with tiled bases and exquisite finish throughout are now but wrecks of former beauty. Vandal hands have broken, stolen, mutilated, until only suggestions remain. Barbarous hordes have removed doors and everything else possible, have broken the 163 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS windows and reduced stone and tiles to frag- ments. Nature's elements have completed the devastation. Near by the Arab cemetery occupies a fine promontory washed by gentle Mediterranean surf. A little farther away lies the English ceme- tery at Shara Shat, near which was the villa of one of our English friends. Across the bay and along a dazzling beach gleamed the Pasha's castle. Hard it is to imagine that ancient pile as turned to modern uses. On one well-remembered afternoon the domes and minarets of Tripoli stood out against the sunset like some fairy city of a dream. In imagination I had been trying to reconstruct the daintiness of the original decoration under the Caramanli dome, and to follow backward the long, long story into a vanishing past. A grave had just been dug, for some old woman, after the usual fashion not more than eighteen inches deep. A few minutes later the 164 In the garden, Shara Shat On the gallery FUNERALS funeral train appeared. A richly dressed blind man led the small procession of white-draped men and women along the sandy way, two of the company bearing the coffin aloft as usual, and singing all together, this time very rapidly and constantly reiterated. X X X- * - ±=*=? I They stopped for five minutes in an angle of some buildings, while passages from the Koran were read ; and everybody, instead of uncover- ing heads in respect, shielded them more com- pletely, but removed their slippers. At the shallow grave the poor woman was taken from her coffin, merely a temporary receptacle, wrapped more tightly in her barracan, and placed in the grave, then covered thinly with earth and stones. A plaster slab would after- ward be manufactured above her. So far, rich and poor were served alike; but the final form of the monument indicated the social status of the sleeper beneath. A pointed or gabled shape revealed his former humble sta- 165 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS tion; a rectangular block with bowls or sau- cers sunken in the cement told a story of wealth and importance. These receptacles, however, were not for flowers, as one might imagine, but to hold water for birds. Every flat-topped grave had these merciful inserts. The birds are said to bring good fortune, so their drinking basins were not provided for, wholly philanthropic reasons. 166 XXVI An Arab Luncheon " It is too hot to ride," said our interpreter on the day when we had been invited to an Arab luncheon given by one of the wealthiest Jewish families in Tripoli, at their country place about a mile down the beach. Surrounded by gardens luxuriantly filled with flowers, fruits and vegetables, the great well constantly pouring into a large open cis- tern like a pleasure pond, from the center of which an ample fountain sprung upward all day long, this villa was one of the great es- tates of the region. But the gibleh had been blowing for two days, the air was scorching as a furnace, and a dim haze of desert dust filled every crevice. Even one's tightly shut watch and camera became impregnated with impalpable particles. The thermometer was 167 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS well above a hundred, but with air so dry it was no more uncomfortable than far lower temperatures nearer the equator, in jungle regions. A narrow strip of shade lay along open streets close to the houses. Even the dusky Sudanese were lying in its welcome shelter, and not even a dog or a donkey ventured into the scorching glare. " Too hot to ride ! " I exclaimed, " I should think it much too hot to walk ! " " No," he replied. " Take umbrellas, go slowly — you will feel the heat less." Knowing from long experience that native methods of combating or aiding climates are invariably best, I submitted, and we set forth, the only living beings astir. Slowly following the narrow lines of shade, we soon emerged into the pitiless sunshine which seemed to grip one with scorching fingers. That mile was long to be remem- bered, but it came to an end at last, in gar- dens facing the sea. 1 68 AN ARAB LUNCHEON When the servants had opened the great gates and ushered us in through the house doors, it was like entering a cellar. The dusky coolness seemed a haven of rest in- side those thick walls where no heat could penetrate. Iced drinks in tall glasses were brought at once, and my hostess soon appeared, very gorgeously arrayed in elegant native costume. This was full trousers of blue and white silk, barracan of pink silk, and sleeveless jacket of purple velvet heavily embroidered with gold. Her braided hair was tied into a blue and white silk handkerchief. Heavy earrings of unalloyed yellow gold weighted her ears and strings of sequins draped neck and shoulders. Wide bracelets, also of soft, pure gold, cov- ered her arms nearly to the elbow, and her heelless gilt slippers were merely caught on her dainty toes. My prettiest embroidered white frock, which I had worn to honour the occasion, paled into utmost insignificance be- side this array of splendour, and both my hos- 169 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS pitable hostess and several of her assembled friends seemed to agree in that opinion. Through the interpreter they asked many questions about my garb — why I wore only two colours, were n't the white shoes very hot, and the gloves ? Did I make the little embroid- ered flowers? They could appreciate that work, but otherwise they evidently disapproved politely of white gowns; and soon, surround- ing me in a buzzing circle of interested and rainbow-coloured femininity, they first inti- mated gently and then definitely proposed that I should be arrayed in garments similar to their own. Like happy children, they followed me to the large, airy bedroom of our hostess, stay- ing until a set of wonderful articles was chosen; and then courteously retired, leaving two maids to help me into the unaccustomed regalia. I was fearfully and wonderfully composed! The garments, in shape and texture like those worn by all the other ladies, and of just as many colours, were only slightly different in 170 AN ARAB LUNCHEON combination ; and except in the matter of hair- dressing were quite becoming! The bracelets, flat pieces of pure hammered gold, bent to fit the arm, were so heavy and impervious that they seemed the hottest things I had ever ex- perienced. However, I was very proud of my yards of precious sequins, and felt unusually wealthy and important. When I emerged into the drawing-room, there was a distinct sensa- tion — enthusiasm knew no bounds. But more than once before I was released, I sighed for my cool white frock. A stereoscope was produced, and all of us, humble little oriental ladies, looked meekly at the pictures, our only diversion. As the household was not of the religion of the prophet, the husbands of this company had also been invited; soon they appeared, greet- ing us as we sat in a modest circle on the floor. Among them came the Astronomer, evidently much impressed by this array of splendour, and quite failing to notice any previous acquaint- ance, so disguised by unaccustomed glory. I 171 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS heard him ask if I had not yet arrived — and at the moment happened to meet his eye. A more astonished scientist has rarely been seen. His expression was untranslatable; but with good grace he instantly accepted the situa- tion, to the infinite delight of the ladies, who had gleefully watched his unconscious entrance. Before long the company was summoned to the dining-room, cool, dim, with lofty ceiling, and many servants in waiting. Before each guest was a pile of ten or eleven plates, and the first course, placed upon the top one, was not wholly easy to manipulate. With its re- moval came a slight increase of comfort, which continued in arithmetical progression as the luncheon went on. Many delicious but mysti- fying Arab dishes were served, as well as the inevitable and always appetizing cus-cus, a variety of novel vegetables in hot and spicy sauces, and finally little cakes and welcome Turkish coffee. It was after four o'clock before we rose from 172 -a c o AN ARAB LUNCHEON the table, and nearly six when, once more ar- rayed in normal costume, I mounted a home- ward-ambling camel, for a more familiar but equally delicious eight o'clock dinner at the Consulate. 173 XXVII Eclipse Preparations Selection of the exact spot for setting up telescopes, finding workmen intelligent enough for labours often exacting, a judicious choosing among amateurs always more than ready to " help," night-time testing of instruments for weeks beforehand, engaging photographers and fitting up temporary dark-rooms — all this work the Astronomer must accomplish. As far as mechanical preparation was con- cerned, we were hampered by the nationalities and religions of the workmen, so that one set or another was always off for its weekly holi- day. No Mohammedan would work on Friday, no Jew on Saturday, and Sunday was not on our own list of toiling days. These three, with the various feast and fast and sacred days of the month Ramadan, interfered with astro- i74 Eclipse preparations A spectral array ... set to catch a shadow ECLIPSE PREPARATIONS nomical progress somewhat seriously. Also the variation in language was often a barrier to complete understanding of delicate points. A few words of Arabic, Turkish, Greek and Italian usually sufficed to get the day intelli- gently started, and the Astronomer's linguistic facility soon placed his tasks well in hand by the polyglot community. There was, too, one never-failing resource, for when no Mediter- ranean tongue succeeded in impressing his varied servitors, as a last resort he would hurl a few emphatic Japanese words among his waiting artisans, who, singularly enough, never seemed to fail of his meaning when this acute stage was reached. In 1900 many telescopes were set up on the Consulate terrace, all painted white, as well as mountings and accessories, that they might absorb less of the blinding heat in which all day they baked — a spectral array, indeed, set to catch a shadow. All were attached to one large central tube, and each was furnished with an endless chain of photographic plates i75 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS for exposure, making over a hundred pictures during the fifty seconds of totality. The general idea was much the same as that of the Astronomer's former inventions used in Africa and Japan, in which pneumatic and electric power had each been successfully ap- plied; but the depth of the Consulate court- yard made possible the use of mere gravity as the moving force, and an ingenious system of cords and pulleys was accurately adjusted. The cords were " tripped " at the proper point for exposures by beads from Moslem rosaries; the weights were buckets of desert sand. A different but equally effective arrange- ment for the telescopes on the Consulate ter- race was made for the second eclipse. Certain reasons make it highly desirable to multiply photographs of the corona during a single eclipse. Many must still be studied before coronal nature can be fully known, its problems entirely unravelled. When that comes, the whole story of the sun can perhaps be told. Meantime, not only is it well to com- 176 ECLIPSE PREPARATIONS pare representations of many coronas of dif- ferent years, which vary greatly in shape and size and evidences of solar activity, but to col- late all those photographs taken during the swift progress of any one totality. Thus far no change in this delicate halo of ethereal light has been detected during its few mo- ments of visibility at any given locality, nor even between the observable beginning and the end of the track, separated by more than two hours of actual time. How rapidly, then, do alterations in the corona take place which, from one eclipse to another, modify its whole appearance — once a smooth circle, again a broken and irregular ring; sometimes showing long and immensely extended streamers, at the next occasion a quiet, petal-like development, without emphasis in any direction? No one has yet discovered. A connection between sun-spot epochs and coronal streamers has been found. Some- times, as we know, rapid changes occur in the spots, and probably the corona, invisible, 177 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS may undergo similar fluctuations. If a hun- dred photographs of a single totality could be taken, extending from its first to its last second, not impossibly changes might be de- tected, undoubtedly faint and slight, but no less significant, beginning the riddle's answer. But the one, two or three minutes of most totalities are not enough for a single astron- omer to take even twenty or thirty photo- graphs by hand. Some mechanical means must be used to multiply them. And such a plan was again successfully carried out through the mechanical ingenuity of the Astronomer. But even after all contingencies have been provided for, smaller necessities sometimes arise which could not have been anticipated. For instance, one day a few yards of catgut, or the strongest possible tennis-racquet or violin string was suddenly required. Never, can I forget my frantic rush for catgut — wanted immediately. How to accomplish that strange errand in Arabic, I did not know. At 178 ECLIPSE PREPARATIONS so early a morning hour the special interpreter was not yet at hand, nor could our friends be found then at a moment's notice; but one of the clerks in the cable office who spoke a few words of English essayed to accompany me on this singular search. At last he seemed to understand what was wanted, and away we sped. Ordinarily a very rapid walker, I soon found myself quite dis- tanced. Without running, my guide made record time. From one place to another we went like the wind — but never found the cat- gut. The baggy Turkish trousers flew on ahead, and once the eager boy met an intimate friend, who evidently did not see me bringing up the rear. He came affectionately up to my courier, both hands outstretched in greeting. But my lad was not to be deterred from his quest. He took the friendly hands, indeed, but only for the purpose of putting their owner on one side, gently though with vigour. I still have the picture of that friend's grieved and amazed expression as he was thus summarily 179 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS dismissed, without an explanatory word, while his acquaintance sped on like fate, followed by a flying* female in white. One of the most interested spectators of the preparations was a deaf white Angora cat, which insisted upon examining every opera- tion with much thoroughness. The Astrono- mer, being fond of these not ungentle adjuncts of humanity, was rather pleased at the con- stant attentions of his little friend, although she generally stationed herself for a comfort- able nap in the tube of the telescope being at the moment adjusted. But one morning sev- eral things went wrong, and the calm philos- ophy to which I had grown accustomed was evidently broken, for bits of sentences emerged from the depths of instruments in which the astronomical head and person were immersed, suggestive of an almost mundane irritation. They gave me much glee, and were evidently uttered without thought of any possible au- ditor, sympathetic or foreign. " One man Arabic, one Turk, one Maltese 1 80 ECLIPSE PREPARATIONS — can't understand each other or me. Can't set down a cup of sand but some nationality- steps into it. The deaf cat plays with pulleys and cords, until they are all tied up in knots, and might lead to Arcturus or Hades for all I can see. Where is my ?' The rest became inaudible, trailing off into silence more significant than words. But still the work progressed, whether the gibleh blew, bringing a fine golden haze of sand from the desert, turning the air hot and dry like a furnace, or whether the sea wind came in from the blue Mediterranean, making long and lovely days of fresh beauty to rival the rarest of remembered Junes. And at last all was in readiness ; it remained only for sun and moon and atmosphere to do their part. 181 XXVIII The Eclipse of 1905 On this second visit more or less confidence was expressed that no harm would follow the eclipse, one old Arab remarking happily that the Astronomer came before to take their sun away, now he was coming to put it back, an operation of which he seemed distinctly to approve. But belief was evident that hereafter such an occurrence was to be regularly expected every five years. I hope our numerous friends of many undistinguishable nationalities have not thought the war a result of our innocent eclipses; but they will have a long immunity. Although the sun may rise in eclipse in 1936, no corona will be seen again in Tripoli until 2027. August 30 was coming on apace, and the day 182 Etim Bey, a Turkish exile THE ECLIPSE OF 1905 before grew very hot. For a week the As- tronomer had not attempted to go to bed at all, catching a nap here and there as he could in intervals of observing stars, adjusting in- struments and preparing generally; and one hour, or two at most, covered all the sleep he had in each twenty-four. On eclipse day I rose as usual about four — so did the baker's smudge ; but the Pasha had given orders, and no fires were made later in the day, the streets were sprinkled contin- ually, to prevent possible dust, and the Fran- ciscan Fathers had politely offered to have their church clock stopped from its loud strik- ing during the eclipse, that those fleeting mo- ments marked by Lieutenant Janoupoulus on our old Arab bell might not be interrupted by alien sounds. The early morning sky was pale daffodil, with Orion and Sirius, Jupiter and Venus, shining resplendent; but the heat even then was remarkable in that land of life-erivinr breezes. A slight prophetic gibleh had begun 183 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS the day before, which we hoped might be only a false alarm. But evidently there was reality in its warning, for the heat increased intoler- ably. By the time I reached the Consulate roof-terrace, where all was in readiness, the thermometer stood at a hundred and one. A fairly strong south wind blew, and all the time the sea horizon seemed drawing in, nearer and nearer, dim and beautiful, pale, smooth. Beyond the Sultana's tomb the fringe of palms grew mistily yellow, the desert shim- mered with heat. All the flags blew off toward the north, and Arabs, Jews, Italians, Maltese, even the Sudanese and Fezzani clung to the narrow shade strip in the street canons far below. Sand suspended in the atmosphere was rising slowly from the horizon and staining the pure blue in an ever-ascending cloud. By ten o'clock it had risen three or four degrees. Overhead the sky was splendidly clear, deep blue, and unflecked by vapour. Above the Con- sulate courtyard it was like a square of daz- zling sapphire. .184 THE ECLIPSE OF 1905 The Astronomer kept calmly on with his final preparations, not even glancing out to see how his sky was progressing, but I remember a distracted morning as I helped a bit here and there, then ran from balcony to terrace, from one corner to another to watch the ad- vancing gibleh and its effect on the atmos- phere. Steadily, but very deliberately rising, the yellow mass crept up the clear blue dome, ever reaching onward to the sun himself. Dignified, handsome Challum, an Arab Jew, and head carpenter, had picked up half a dozen English words which he now brought forth reassuringly. " No gibleh, afternoon," he said, as I peered once more over the desert, thick, yellow, constantly nearer. An hour or so later he beckoned me to a far corner of the terrace, pointing seaward to a well-known reef. " Look ! " he said. One small whitecap broke lazily over the rocks out of a smooth and oily sea. This was his proof of change. Before noon the hot blast ceased and wind- 185 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS less silence fell. Every flag hung limp upon its mast. Then feebly, hesitatingly one or two stirred slightly, quivered, gave a fitful puff outward, and — away from the north! The sea wind was beginning — we were saved. Shortly after, they all stood out straight away from the blue Mediterranean, once more dark indigo and ruffled into a thousand joyous wrinkles and whitecaps. Within an hour the aspiring sand dropped back into its desert hills and valleys, once more the splendid air was free from stain, the horizon retreated, and clear and clean the afternoon drew on. Gibleh was conquered. Before first contact the usual rehearsal was conducted, with every one in his place, regular assistants and amateur helpers all in the blinding glare. News of the eclipse was very general. In the open suk, or market, groups of men were sitting beside their camels in grave and seri- ous, somewhat doubtful, expectation as the partial eclipse proceeded. At the open-air 186 THE ECLIPSE OF 1905 cafes men would speak quietly of its prog- ress, their companions answering, " May God be gracious," when all lapsed into silence and a certain awe. Gradually, surrounding roofs filled. A few wise persons had provided tent-like shelters from the brightness, and all were supplied with smoked glass. Instead of gazing steadfastly at us, as the whole population had tried to do in 1900, watching for some entertainment to take place on the Consulate terrace, this time all were looking at the sun. First contact came promptly at 1.43. Very quickly the bite out of the dazzling disc grew larger, and the stout crescentic sun dwindled rapidly. As before, the brilliant luminary was more than half covered before any obvious change occurred in light and heat. Everything quieted so gradually that I was startled to realize how the shadow had crept onward. Materials for my drawing of the corona were at hand, but they could not be used until totality. 187 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS The fine Gurgeh minaret with its two bal- conies towering above the mosque was filled with white-robed Moslems gazing skyward. As the light failed and grew lifeless and all the visible world seemed drifting into the deathly trance which eclipses always produce, an old muezzin emerged from the topmost vantage point of the minaret, calling, calling the faithful to remember Allah and faint not. Without cessation, for over fifteen minutes he continued his exhortation, in a voice to match the engulfing somberness, weird, insistent, breathless, expectant. Between eight and ten minutes before to- tality a strange appearance began to sweep across the whiteness of the terrace at my feet. For an instant I failed to recognize what I had always looked for in previous eclipses, and had never seen, but which nevertheless I was even at that moment expecting. As I saw the strange wavering light and darkness, my first thought was, " Why ! the gibleh stopped! There are no clouds! What 1 88 The fine Gurgeh minaret . . . was filled with white-robed Moslems gazing skyward THE ECLIPSE OF 1905 is cominsr between us and the last remnants *;=> of sunlight?" For one brief instant I thought of drifting smoke. Then with a start I realized that at last I was seeing actual " shadow bands " — that strange quiver of mystery which creeps or rushes or glides across the world just be- fore the moon's shadow completely envelops the landscape. It affected me singularly, and I observed the bands with great care. Both the lines of light and shadow were very nar- row, not much over an inch in width, not straight, but slightly and irregularly curved. As I faced the sun, my back about northeast, the lengthwise stretch of the bands was from me toward the sun, and they moved eastward with great rapidity, thus at right angles to their own direction as well as to that of the wind, though not absolutely straight — rather a huge curve or part of a circle whose center was the sun. Elusive as wraiths they drifted past me, along our own terrace, the lower roofs and 189 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS off over the city. I should not say they rushed along, though the speed was very great; the motion was infinitely more airy and exquisite and fitful than any one word could convey. A pedestrian could not have kept pace with them. Rising and falling in intensity, they faded, al- most fainted, from sight, and five times they rose again, clear and distinct. Absorbing as this strange appearance was, I nevertheless had to watch for totality, to give the signal for Lieutenant Janoupoulus to announce on the old Arab bell. Also, I was to look for the final breaking up of the slender crescent into Baily's Beads, so marked a phenomenon of the 1900 eclipse. But they did not appear this time. The crescent melted from sight — the last ray of true sunlight was quenched, and for twenty seconds I had seen the corona nearly complete to the failing bright spot. It seemed so struggling to emerge, to come into sight and knowledge of men, that it must show itself even before the appointed time. 190 THE ECLIPSE OF 1905 The moment of totality produced an im- mense impression all over the city. Those detailed to watch its effect upon the inhab- itants reported that nearly all stood up, while ejaculation and prayer arose from hundreds, even thousands of voices. Many spread their hands to heaven toward the sun, saying, " God is great," " What God willed came to pass," " May God be gracious to His servants." When first the corona flashed unmistakably into the deep blue sky, the entire city burst into irrepressible applause, a rolling wave of sound that spread and spread from sea to silent desert and out into immensity. Freighted with some new message from the sun, mysterious, always invisible except dur- ing these flying moments, the corona knows its own pale beauty and import, and would reveal its secret if permitted. Once again in the limpid African firmament it bloomed, even as the celestial flower whose perfectness had haunted me for five years, its petals white with the vivid fire of aeons and the struggle of un- 191 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS imaginable conflagrations, its center the dark moon ball hung there by mighty force to show this pregnant blossoming, then carried on and away relentlessly. But the flower is always there, only our clumsy means have not yet re- vealed the waiting secrets. Evenly developed all around, another proof of the suspected connection between the corona and sun-spot periods, there were many bright streamers, but no long ones. Considerable detail of interwoven filaments was evident, but this was not a spectacular corona; it was a halo, round, yet sharply pointed. I drew, and drew, and looked and drew again; and all the time the inexorable bell struck out its warning every fifteen seconds. One of the least dark of total eclipses, all sketching went on merely by coronal light. For three minutes and over the wondrous spectacle lasted. All the lower sky was warm yellow, and Venus sprang out as newly made, from sky depths instead of sea. The Tarhuna mountains leaped into singular, sudden purple prominence. 192 Evenly developed all around THE ECLIPSE OF 1905 An intense silence fell over city and gardens, while the rare heaven flower bloomed. And then — a gleam of actual startling sunlight shot down, but I was able to follow the corona for many seconds after. It seemed to fade reluctantly, as if loath to leave hurrying cam- eras, eager telescopes, hastening pencils. But common life and daylight returned, as they always seem to do after these moments of uplifted silence. With a few noteworthy exceptions, eclipses rarely bring discoveries of a sensational na- ture. Expeditions generally return bringing just a little more light on some large solar problem, the whole to be solved only after repeated attacks during the eagerly seized moments of many eclipses. This one proved conclusively the law, now fully established, that the 1905 type of corona is inseparably related to a thickly spotted sun. But why? The answer must come through some new magnetic theory of the distribution of the sun's radiant energy. 193 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS To a truly scientific mind even a fraction of actual fact, newly learned, is to be cher- ished, debated; and if countless expeditions should be required to complete the whole, as- tronomers would still feel amply repaid for any exertion. What is so valuable as truth? And truth is fact, often painfully dug out through years of toil and devotion. The astronomer deals in cycles, and rarely expresses his periods in terms of years. As the practically inconceivable distance of sun from earth is the footrule of the universe, so the measure of astronomic time is groups of centuries; persistent patience the astron- omer's first characteristic. Perfectly the apparatus had worked, long- days and nights of sleepless devotion were rewarded. The dark-room was full of records; the eclipse was over. 194 XXIX The Desert In seashore towns one feels the ocean call- ing. Always there is the undercurrent of knowing it is there. One may not recognize its compelling presence — traffic, talk, teas, barter and gain may go on with apparent un- consciousness ; but that great proximity is never quite absent from the constant life of the community. In Tripoli one similarly feels the rolling Sahara — it is there, close-creeping, brooding, waiting — with an awfulness not to be ex- plained, an immensity like the ocean itself, a fascination almost uncanny in its wind-swept spaces. Narrow lanes ankle deep in sand between mud walls and thickets of olives came sud- denly to an end, and before us was eternity in i95 TRIPOLI THE MYSTERIOUS visible form. No matter how hot the city, over the sand a fresher air seemed always to pre- vail, an etherealization of breathing, perfec- tion of experience possible to the lungs. Who minded a world enwrapped in blinding sun- shine, or the blue fire of the heavens, when air fit for the gods, the very elysium of ether, was filling one with a strange ecstasy of life! The oasis was left behind. Here a few castor-oil plants, there a milkweed or two, sparse grass, last outpost of vegetation creep- ing away in clumps, all soon ceased, and only the high sand ridges, a yellow spray whirling off the sharp-edged tops like snowdrifts, the wind, sunset and silence remained — a blessed healing silence, and air like wine. As far out as the eye could reach, the horizon blended in soft, bluish tints, atmospheric and lovely. A string of camels moved off across the illimitable sand, a marabout dome rose whitely, and a shepherd in gracefully looped brown bar- racan, conducting his flock of goats, played on the strange bagpipes with an effect of unmiti- 196 'Jll '' ^j ' . - • & >* * » * « H, t'"; -' V ,' * 1 1 > • * i i * . * fe .* -; i > T3 O -a 138, 139 Carthage, 15, 16, 73, 206 Cashabiya, 123 Catania, 15 Cavasse, 55, 147. *S4 Caves, 74, 78, 79 Cemetery, Arab, 164 Catholic, 34 English, 164 Ceyrari Barka, 32 Challum, 185 Charles V, 2, 35 City gate, 28 Cloudburst in 1904, 71 Coats of arms, 56 Colugli, 47 Constantinople, 36, 163 Consulate-General, 56, 63, 119, 123, 205 Consulates, 31 Consul, French, 79 Consul-General of Great Britain, 3, 147 Corona, n, 121-3, 125-7, 176, 177, 187, 190-3 Corsairs, 35, 39, 42 Corugli, 47 Cowper, H. S., 70 Cretans, 64 Cromwell, 35 Cus-cus, 98, 130, 172 Cyrenaica, 53 Decatur, 40, 41 Dervish, 30 Desert, 195 musicians, 134 sands, 70, 77 wildflowers, 77 Dish covers, 130 Djerba, 14 Djurjura, 205 Dragut the Terrible, 35 Earth Fort (Burj el-Trab), 37 Eastern Telegraph Co., 121 Eclipse, described, 187 fear of, 10 future in Tripoli, 182 instruments, 176 made by Allah, 10 of 1900, 119 of 1905, 182 preparation for, 174 Tripolitan, 8 trip to Tripoli, 8 Egypt,_i4, 32 Embroideries, 90 Esashi, Japan, 124, 125 Esparto grass, 48, 49, 72, 129, 151 Etim Bey, 149 Exiles, 146, 148 Faldetta, 50 "Father of Night," 34 Feathers, ostrich, 134, 151 Ferdinand V, 34 Fezzan, 14, 135 Fezzani, 47, 50, 132, 184 Fort, Turkish, 76 Fountain, Turkish, 26 Franciscans, 30, 122, 183 French astronomer, 79 Consul, 79 school for boys, 51 steamers, 15 Fum el-Bab, 158 Funduks, 49 Funeral, 162, 165 Gabes, 16, 52 Gardens, 80, 82-3 Garia el-Garbia, 72 el-Sergia, 72 Genoese, 34 Georgia, cablegram from, 120, 121 2IO INDEX Ghadames, 14, 135-6 Gharian mountains, 135 Ghat, oasis of, 14, 136 Ghirgaresh, 74, 76 Gibleh, 63, 119, 167, 181, 183, 185, 186, 188 Gibraltar, 121 *} Gimbei, 144 Goats, 130 Gold dust, 134 Gorringe, Lieut. Com., U. S. N., 73 Governor of Tripoli, 43 Granada, 30 Greek sponge-divers, 48 Greek warship Crete, 150, 205 Gurgeh minaret, 188 Gurgeh, El-haj Mustafa, mosque, 159 Halley, 124 Harems, 9, 87, 88 Hearn, Lafcadio, 12 Hejira, 9, 33 Henna, 97, 105, 106, 134 Hesperia, 53 "Hill of the Graces," 70 Homs, 72 Ibn Tumart, 37 Imam, 159 Inscription, Roman arch, 69 Italians, 2, 5, 48, 51, 121 Ivory, 134 carvers, 27 Jamah Hamed Pasha, 158 Janoupoulus, Lieut., 183, 190 Jebel Gharian, 54 Jewish costume, 169 Rabbis, 2, 149 Union, 51 Jews, s, 48, 115 Jonson, Arthur, 58 Journal at Consulate, 59, 60, 61, 62 Joy cry, 92 Jussuf (Caramanli Pasha), 36, 37 Kaba, black stone, 161 Kafir, eclipse made by, 10 Kars el-Gharian, 54 Kars el- Jebel, 54 Kerakish, 77 Keys, 30, 31 King of Morocco (Abu Ainan) 34 Kipling, 20 Knights of Rhodes, 35 Koran, 21, 47, 155 Lakbe, 75, 197 Lake Tchad, 136 Lanes and roads, 74, 84, 195 Languages, 3, 31 Leather decoration, 25, 134 Lebda (Leptis Magna) 33, 72-3 Leo Africanus, 76 Leper, 154 Leptis Magna (Lebda), 32, 35, 72 Libert, M., 79 Library at Consulate, 57 Lighthouse, 37 Lion to follow, bird to speak, 37 Louis XIV, 73 Malta, 15, 35, 121 Maltese, 5, 47, 48, 64 Manchester prints, 134, 137 Marabouts, 30, 48, 75, 84, 196 Marianiste Brothers, 51 Marina, 30, 92, 93 Market, 30 bread, 37, 134, 137-8 Tuesday, 129 Marseilles, 15 Mecca, 34, 93 211 INDEX Medina, 34 Mehdia, 16 Men of war, 149 Messina, 15 Metal workers, 24, 25 Meteorological apparatus, 1905, Midrash of Talmud, 160 Minarets, 65 Misda, 134 Misrata, 52 Mohammed, 160, 161 Mohammed (cavasse), 205 Montagu, Lady Mary W., 57 Moon's shadow, 122, 127 Moorish decoration, 163 Moors, 30 Morocco, 14, 30 Moslems, 2, 156 Mosque (17 domed), 64 Mosques, 153 Mosques, Algeria, 154, 156 M' Salata, 72 Muezzin call, 65, 124, 159, 188, 203 Mufta, 155, 160, 205 Music, 141 Musical instruments, 141, 142, 143 Muwah Hadi Council, 37 Naples, 15 Narghiles, 17 Nelson, Admiral, 41 Oasis, 196 Oea, 9, 32 Ostriches, 133 Ottoman rule, 7 Oven, 85 Palazzo, Professor, 51 Pasha, Castle, 16, 164 orders, 183 of Tripoli, 44, 53, 157, 159, 205 Pashas, 2 Patios, 87, 90 Pender, Denison, 121 Philadelphia, U. S. frigate, 40-1 Phoenician founding, 9, 32 navigators, 2 Pianura market, 45, 129 Pillars, Roman, 68 Pirates, 35, 39 Playfair, Sir Lambert, 32 Post offices, 48 Potters, 22 Preble, 40-1 Punic language, 33 Queen's birthday, 146, 155 Ramadan, 61, 174 Redjed Pasha, 146, 147, 148 Regio Tripolitana, 71 Revolution, American, 39 Road of Whirlwinds, 32 Roadstead, 149 Roman Amphorae, 22 arch, 154 inscriptions, 44, 84 Rome, 2, 7 "Royal observatory," 11, 204 Rugs, 26 Ruins and relics, 12, 67, 68, 72-3 Sabrata, 32 Saddle, Tuareg, 140 Sahara, 5, 195, 198 gateway to, 38 transported to, 145 winds of, 132 S. Germain-des-Pres, 73 Salisbury Plain, 71 Saracenic wars, 14 Sardinia, 36 Savoy, 36 212 INDEX Sea Gate (Bab el-Bahr), 17 Senams, 70, 71 Severus, Lucius Septimius, 33 Sfax, 16 Shadow bands, 188, 189 Shara Erbat Saat, 68 Shara Shat, 164 Shirakawa, Japan, 125 Sicilians, 48 Sicily, 15 Sidi Dragut mosque, 159 Salem, 159 Sidonians, 72 Silos, 83 Sinan, 35 Singing, Turkish, 115 Sisters of S. Vincent, 51 Skirmish in 191 1, 76 Smyth, Admiral, 73 Soil, fertility of, 81 Sousse, 16 Spanish fleet, 34 fortress, 34 supremacy, 34 Sponge boats, Greek, 17, 30 divers, 15 Sponges, 130 Street cleaning, 21, 22 cries, 21, 64 Streets, 18, 44, 64 Sudan, 136 Sudanese, 47, 50, 94, 105, 168, 184 musicians, 141 Suez Canal, 71 Suk el-Thalath, 129 Suk el-Yahud el-Hararah, 68 Sultan of Turkey, 36, 45, 141, 148-9 Sultana's tomb, 162, 184 Synagogue, 85 Syracuse, 15 Syrtica Regio, 32 Syrtis Major, 32 Tajura, 34 Tarhuna, 72 mountains, 192 Technical School, 51, 52 Telegraph and moon's shadow, 121 Terrace, Consulate, 87, 119, 175, 176, 184, 187 Terraces, 63, 153 Thoroughfares, 18 Tirsa, 72, 136 Tobrook, 14 Todd, Prof. David, 121 Totality, 1900, 124; 1905, 191 Trablus el-Gharb, 9 Trade, interior, 137 Tripoli, boundaries, 14 climate, 71 how to reach, 15 Tripolis, 32 Triumphal Arch, 67-8 Troglodytes, 54 Tuaregs, 134-5, 138-9, 206 Tully, "Narrative," 57 Tunis, 14-15 Tunisia, rulers of, 34 Tunis road, 74 Turkey, 2, 36, 42 Turkish army, 6 band, 45, 83, 141, 204 College, 50, 51 fortresses, 54 Government, 38 man-of-war, 150 money, 48 soldiers, 48, 122 Uadai, 137 United States in Tripoli, 39 Valetta, 15 Vandal, 163 Vandalism, 73 213 INDEX Vandals, 33 prey of, 2 Vehicles, 58 Vilayet, 9 Wadi, 71 Walls, 28 Weaving, 24 rugs, S3 Wedding, 92, 95 Wedding, Jewish- Arab, 113 Well, in desert, 197 Wells, 75, 80, 81, 197 Wells and antiquities, 21 Whirling dervishes, 48 Windsor, Royal Gardens, 73 Winnowing, 84 Women, Jewish, 114 Maltese, 50 Mohammedan, 113 Turkish, 109 Zellah, 72, 136 Zoroastrianism 160 214 W0* jj 000 634A4U