KND WeSTOFIRCLKNO '««•«■» I* >«»<» «M v^^Of I GUIDG: ' / o r BLACK'S GUIDE TO GALWAY AND CONNEMAKA REVISED AND CORRECTED TO DATE BY G. E. MITTON BLACK'S GUIDE TO GALWAY CONNEMARA AND THK WEST OF IRELAND lUustrateti Iriit]^ ^laps antJ ^latts TWENTIETH EDITION LONDON ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1912 HOTELS The letters (I.A.C.) placed before the names of hotels indicate that such hotels have been appointed by the Irish Automobile Club, and the letter (C.) that the hotels so marked are on the Cyclists' Touring Club list. The Editor will he glad to receive any notes or corrections from Tourists rising this Griide-book. Communications to be addressed to the Fublishers, It Soho Square, London, W. CONTENTS PAGE Pink Pages, Steamers, Coaches, etc. Dublin to Gahvay 177 Mullingar 178 Athlone 178 Lissoy . . . . , . . . . 181 Clonmacnois 182 Ballinasloe, ........ 185 Athenry ......... 186 Limerick 188 Limerick to Kilrush, Kilkee, etc. , . . . 19'1 ,, Castleconnell, Killaloe, etc. . . . 197 Tuam anil Sligo 202 Galway 206 Galway Bay 209 Aran Isles 209 Galway to Lisdoonvarna, Moher Clift's, and Kilkee . . 212 Connemara 216 I. Galway to Clifden (by Rail) 216 Recess . 219 Ballynahinch 221 Clifden 222 Clifden to Westport 223 Letterfrack 224 Leenane 226 Delphi . . 228 V 20.^801 3 vi CONTENTS PAGE Westport 230 Croagh Patrick 230 Westport to Achill Island 232 Achill 233 II. Galway to Clifden (by Corrib) 236 Lougli Corrib 236 Cong 237 Lough Mask 240 Dublin to Westport by Athlone 241 Westport to Sligo 243 Ballina 244 Ballysodare 245 Sligo 246 Glencar 248 Knocknarea ........ 249 Sligo to Longford 249 LIST OF MAPS Limerick (Plan) Tofaccj^age 188 Limerick and Clare ,, 195 Connemara ....... ,, 217 Lough Corrib ....... ,, 236 Gal way and Sligo ,, 250 ILLUSTRATIONS Sligo Abbey Frontispiece A Gahvay Fair Facing page 186 Killaloe ,, 200 The Twelve Bens ,, 220 A Bowley-House, Achill ,, 230 The Seal Caves, Achill „ 236 GENEEAL SKETCH OF THE DISTEICT. It is not generally realised that througliout the centre of Ireland, from Sligo on the north to Limerick on the south, there runs an unparalleled fishing district, for the greater part free, consisting of a chain of lakes, almost all of which are linked together by the river Shannon. This water-way is navigable for steam launches for about a hundred miles. Salmon fishing can be had almost anywhere (except in well-known jjreserves such as at Killaloe), on payment of a pound a year for the licence. Trout fishing needs no licence, and the trout run large. The best centres are at Athlone, Boyle, Carrick-on-Shannon, Mount- shannon, etc. The scenery is for the greater part monotonous, level green banks and an absence of trees tending to a peaceful uniformity, but in parts of the loughs as about Mountshannon in Lough Derg, and in Loughs Key and Arrow, there is much that is attractive. What little enterprise has been attempted in the way of running public steam-boats has been chilled, and the steamers of the Upper Shannon Navigation Company now run only in the height of the summer, and traverse only the comparatively short distance from Killaloe to Banagher. Beyond the Shannon district westward is the land of Galway, the Counemara of the tourist, with its endless opportunities for sport, and its wonderful freshness of air. Around Lough Corrib and on the intricate sea-lochs about Bertaghbhoy and Kilkieran Bays chances of sport are manifold. That land of legend and antiquities, Co. Clare, lies southward, and north- ward are Clew Bay, the Curraun Peninsula, and Achill island, all yearly attracting greater numbers of those who love scenery and wild nature. This book deals in detail with the districts thus roughly indicated. The proper way to strike them is by starting due west from Dublin on the Midland Great Western main line which cuts Ireland in half, and the best method of reaching Dublin is, as everyone knows, by the excellent service of the London and North Western Railway. The most convenient BLACK'S GUIDE TO IRELAND (GALWAY SECTION) [The Official A. B.C. Irish Railway Guide (Office, Bachelor's Walk, Dublin), and Falconer's A. B.C. Irish Guide (53 Upper Sackville Street, Dublin) ; post free, 5d. each, are recommended.] Page in SUMMER STEAMERS this hook 170. Lower Shannon (Limerick and Kilrush, Limerick S.S. Company, Limei'ick). Up to the last week in June, two or three times weekly, from Limerick to Kilrush (for Kilkee), and from Kilrush to Limerick. Commencing from the last week in June, almost every weekday from Limerick to Kilrush (for Kilkee), and from Kilrush to Limerick. The steamers stop at Kildysart, Eedgap (Labasheeda), and Tarbert (for Listowel) — unless otherwise announced. There are also frequent excursions both weekdays and Sundays. Fares to Kilrush, 6s. and 3s. M. return. 197. Upper Shannon (see " Guide to Shannon Lakes," the F. IF. Crossley rith- llshing Co., Ltd., Dublin, 3W.).— Tourist steamers now run daily from middle of June to end of September, Sundays excepted, between Banagher and Killaloe, with train connections at either end. A special day trip is run froiy Kingsbridge Station, Dublin, to Banagher, thence by steamer to Killaloe, and rail back to town, arriving at 10.25 P.M. Return Fares, including luncheon and tea on steamer:— 1st class, 14s. 6(7.; 3rd class, lis. Time is allowed for dinner at Killaloe. 209. Galway to Aran Isles (Galiuay Bay steamboat Company, 19 Eyre Square, Galway) on Tues., Thur., Sat. all the year round. The service is tidal. The .journey takes about three hours each way, and three hours are allowed on the islands before return. Fare, 4s. 6d. return. 213. Galway to Balljrvaughan (see tables of above) on Mon., Wed., Fri. iluriiig July, August, and September. Fare, 4.?. return. 234. Lough Corrib (Lough Corrib Steamboat Company, Galway).— A steamer leaves Galway for Cong daily at 3 p.m. It leaves Cong for Galway daily at 8 a.m. The steamer stops at Kilbeg on each trip, and Annagh- down on Sats. Return Fares :—Qs. and 3s. This does not allow tourists time to see Cong, but during the summer day-excursions are run, more conveniently arranged for passengers. 245. Sligo and Belmullet (see Time Tables by Board of fl'orks, Dublin).— From Sligo on Tues. and Thurs. ; and from Belmullet on Wed. and Fri. (May to Sept. inclusive ; weekly rest of year). Excursion Fares (ret.):— 7s. ed. ; 5s., issued at Belmullet and Sligo (May to September inclusive). The time-table is subject to alteration. (V) ra^ein SUMMER CARS this book 223. Clifden to Westport (Midland Great Western Railway Motor Coach, June 1 to Sept. 14, weekdays. See Programmes of Midland Great Western Railway, Offices, Broadstone Station, DuUin) :— P.M. P.M Clifden . . . . . dep. 1.30 Westport . . . . dep. 1.55 Leenane . . . . . arr. 3.30 Leenane . . . . arr. 4.45 Westport . . . . arr. e.o Clifden . . . . . arr. G.40 Light luggage only can be taken by these coaches. (Vi) DUBLIN TO GALWAY : MAYNOOTH 177 train in the day from London is that leaving Euston 1.20 midday, arriving at Dublin (Westland Row) 10.20 (Irish Time). Then the "Limited Mail," the quickest train in the day leaves the M.G.W. station (Broadstones), for the west at 7 a.m., carrying a breakfast car and reaching Athlone at 9.9 a.m., and Galway 10.50 a.m. ; but for those who dislike early rising there is a choice of several other trains both from Euston and Dublin. DUBLIN TO GALWAY. Maynooth {Hotel: Leinster Arms), the seat of the well- known Roman Catholic College, is 15 m. from Dublin. The village consists chiefly of one tolerably wide street, at the end of which is the entrance to Carton, the beautiful demesne of the Duke of Leinster, open to the public on week-days ; at the other end is the Royal College of St. Patrick. The college is a fine structure with two quadrangles, ex- tended and improved in 1846 from the designs of Pugin. It has accommodation for over 500 students. The cloister is a fine specimen of Early English. The hall is a spacious and beautiful apartment, and there is a large library. The college was insti- tuted by the Irish Parliament in 1795 to provide education for candidates for the priesthood in the Roman Catholic Chnrch, on account of the difficulty, during the continental wars, of Irish students frequenting the foreign universities. More than half the Roman Catholic clergy of Ireland now receive their education at it. Formerly it obtained an annual parliamentary grant of £26,000 ; but at the disestablishment of the Irish Church in 1869 this was commuted by the payment of a capital sum fourteen times its amount. It is supported also by private donations and bequests, in addition to the entrance fees of the students. The Castle of Maynooth, adjoining the college, was founded in 1176 by Maurice Fitzgerald, and repaired and strengthened in 1426 by John Fitzgerald, sixth Earl of Kildare. It was taken from Thomas Fitzgerald by Sir William Brereton, in the reign of Henry VIII., but was afterwards restored to the family. The keep and several of the towers still remain, as well as the sur- rounding fosse, and betoken it to have been a place of great strength. The Protestant Episcopal Church, erected in the beginning of the 16th century by Earl Gerald Fitzgerald, has an imposing 12 178 DUBLIN TO GALWAY tower. The round tower of Taghadoe is 2 miles to the north of Maynooth. The country soon begins to get bare and moorish. The Wicklow hills, which relieved the flatness at first quickly dis- appeared, and except for the wildness of the scene, attractive to some people, there is nothing to comment on. A tiny branch line runs southward from Enfield to Eden- derry, the source of the Boyne, which river is crossed by the main line some miles further on. Just before Mullingar a glimpse is caught on the south of Lough Ennel, and with Mullingar itself we have reached a famous fishing centre {Uotels : Greville Arms ; Brophil's). This does not lie in the Shannon chain before referred to, but belongs to a subsidiary set of loughs, free, and affording excellent fishing. A very large trade is carried on in horses, cattle, wool and butter. The horse fair in November is attended by dealers from all parts of Europe. Loughs Ennel (or Belvidere), Iron, Oioel, and Derevaragh, a few miles from the town, give sport from April to October, and a little further afield is Lough Shielin, which, on the authority of one well qualified to judge, is "the best in the division." Lough Bnnel owes its reputation chiefly to a peculiar local method of tricking the tackle, used during the May-fly season. This arrangement, known as the "blow-line," suspends the whole of the gut, so that there is no chance of the fish " getting behind the scenes." At Mullingar the railway branches off for Sligo, subdividing at Inny junction into another branch for Killeshandra and Cavan, joining at the latter place the Great North of Ireland Railway. The line to Galway bends in a south-west direction, and as wo pass from the cultivated land of the east to the pastures of the west we note that the haunts of men are few, the sheep many and fat. Between Castletown and Streamstown, the junction for Clara, is a bare waste, and then the "dreary, dreary moorland." At Moate there are two small hotels. Athlone (pop. 7472; M.O.W. (Refreshment 'Room) and 0. S. and W. Railway Stations. Hotel : Prince of Wales) stands on both sides of the River Shannon, which is here a fine width, and is consequently partly in Connaught and partly in Leinster. The river is crossed by the railway bridge (M.G.W.), ATHLONE 179 and a little lower down by the road bridge. On tlie Leinster or east side are the best streets, shoi)s and the hotel, as well as the smaller station (G.S. and W). On the Connaught or west side is the principal railway station, the barracks (the town is always garrisoned), and what remains of the Castle now used for Military Stores. The only old part (13th century) remain- ing of the Castle is the base of the fort built by the Bishop of Norwich, The imposing machicolations and outer walls are modern. The earliest fort seems to have occupied the Celtic " dun " near the present bridge, in the far-off time when the crossing was made over the fords ; and whe" troops and travellers knew well the hostelry and the history alike of that ancient taverner, one " Luan," to whom our best scholars trace the latter pai-t of the name of the town. It seems strange that the place should be connected with Korwich, but it is reliable history that the Bishop of the most eastern city of England built here in 1213 the central castle of Ireland, and we shall find more of this builder-bishop's work at Clonmacnois. The castle has had an eventful record of assaults and sieges, but of none more famous than the siege of 1691, when GinckoU captured Athlone, and so forced the battle with the French and Irish at Aghrim. At first the garrison under Grace, and, Later St. Euth, who held the castle for James II., stood firm, but the heavy fire of GinckeU's men and their last assault utterly broke the Irish defence. " It seems hard for us to conceive how, in the siege of 1691, any part of the town can have escaped utter destruction, as the batteries were all arranged along the river bank on the site of the present Strand Street, with outlying batteries. . . . But we must remember that the siege guns and powder of two hundred years ago did not carry their projectiles much farther than a couple of hundred yards. Specimens of the cannon balls used in the siege can still be seen in Athlone " (Professor Stokes). The present bridge replaces the old Elizabethan structure which was the scene of the siege (see Professor Stokes's " Guide to Athlone," an UTieommonly useful sixpenny -worth). The town owned previously two abbeys, one on each side of the river, some part of the walls (not worth visiting) remain of the Franciscan abbey on the Leinster side, near the huge tweed factories which employ so many hands that the march-past of some seven or eight hundred boots on the way to work at 6.30 A.M. awakes the slumbering tourist by its novelty. House accommodation is ever more and more difficult to get in this prosperous specimen of an Irish town. Tlie walls, built about 300 years ago, have mostly disappeared, but besides the castle fort several historic buildings remain. There is Ginckell's House, at the corner of North gate Street, in which it is said the Dutchman — the famous general " who 180 DUBLIN TO GALWAY seems to have had no idea of chivalry " — lived at the time of the siege of 1691. Of St. Mary's Church the tower with its ancient bell yet stands, from which rang out the famous " peal," referred to by Macaulay, the signal for the final assault above mentioned. On the Connaught side of the river, once stood tlie abbey of St. Peter — now only remembered by its name, which survives in St. Peter's Port. Dublin Museum has swallowed up several "finds" belonging properly to Athlone, chief among them the finest stone battle- axe in the Museum, and the gold "lunulae " (or "minn "), also from this town. The chief feature of the town is its magnificent position in regard to the river and lakes, which gives first-rate opportunity to the angler, and makes the air of unusual freshness. It stands just at the point where the river bursts through the range of sandhills (never rising higher than 600 or 700 feet), which runs from the Green Hills near Dublin to the shores of Galway Bay. The Prince of Wales is an old-fashioned hostelry of a comfort- able sort, and stands well facing the tower of the Church, close by the gateway leading to the Deanery grounds. Just above the town Lough Ree opens out. A good boatman can take a passenger up the greater part of this in a day under favourable conditions. Lough Ree {no steamer service) is smaller than Derg, being 17 miles in length. Formerly it was called Lough Ribh, and sometimes "Great Lough Allen." The numerous promontories, bays, and creeks of the lake greatly add to the charm and variety of its scenery, and some of the islands are very beautiful ; but it all wants stm. This " Lough of the Kings " formed the frontier line between Hy-Many, the principality of the O'Kelly's, on the west, and " Kilkenny West," in the kingdom of Meath, on the east. Among several interesting islands we may mention Inis Clothrann (or Quaker Island), named after the sister of Queen Mab (or Jleave). On the highest point of it once stood that queen's palace, and it was on the sunny strand below that she was bathing when the cowardly Ulster chief struck her dead with a stone from his sling. Professor Stokes states that St. Dermot is said to have lived here about the year 500 ; and the remains of seven churches can be traced. One of these called Templemurry, is of large size; it is said no woman could enter it and survive twelve months. The smallest Church is Templedermot, and the most remarkable, standing some distance from the others, has a square tower (the only instance in Ireland of an ancient Celtic Church thus shaped), joined or bonded on to ATHLONE 181 the main building. "The monastery of Inishofin (or White Cow Island) is, in some respects, the most interesting of any upon Lough Eeo, because its foundation is attributed to St. Eioch, the nephew of St. Patrick, ... a Briton or Welshman by birth." On Hare Inkind no hares are now living to explain the name ; they have relinquished it in favoitt of the tenant. Lord Castlemaine, who has laid out the ground well. On the western shore is the interesting ruin oi Randou-n Castle, "a famous spot in Irish history for the last 2000 years." In ancient times it was called John's (Eoin) House after a local Celtic saint ; when the Normans, who hated the Celts, came and "established a castle of the Knights Ilospitallers, they changed the dedica- tion to that of St. John the Baptist." The castle still stands, with a round tower, a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity,' and a fortified wall, "unique in Ireland." Atlilone is the most convenient station for visiting Lissoy, the supposed scene of Goldsmith's " Deserted Village " ; and the celebrated ecclesiastical ruins of Clonmacnois on the Shannon. Lissoy, or "Auburn," as it is sometimes called from the name in Goldsmith's poem, is 8 miles north-east from Athlone on the road to Longford, but those who are the fortunate owners of canoes will include this excursion in their visit to Lough Ree and its islands ; they will find a good landing at the bay on the east shore, where the Inny flows in, about 3^ miles from Lissoy. The village is about 23 miles west "of Mullingar. Here Goldsmith's father, the rector of Kilkenny West, added to his meagre resources by farming some 70 acres of the Lissoy Estate, but though the poet lived much of his early life here, the claim to the honour of his birthplace is disputed by Pallas, Forgucy, and Elphin, which Dr. Stokes favours most. The last, indeed, has boldly asserted its right by the erection (1897) of a window in the church commemorating the event there in 1728. At Edgeworthstown (17 miles north-east) Goldsmith learnt the "Three R's," as well as the village master's long store of "stories about ghosts, banshees, and fairies." Once, alack! — on his journey between that place and his home — he "actually com- mitted the blunder of his own Comedy, mistaking a squire's house for an inn." To enumerate, however, even the chief incidents of his life ; his unhappy time at Trinity College, his idleness at home, the final departure from his native land, Avhen he was 24 years old ; to describe a career which passed from medical study to literary vagaries and philosophical vagabondism, oi the distressing restraint of a moneyless author, the ill-paid pro- duction of masterpieces such as the Vicar of IVakcfield and of the " Deserted Village," and all the events of the life of that 182 DUBLIN TO GALWAY "strange wilful scapegrace and dreamer," who afterwards became a friend of Johnson, and rose to the highest rank among the masters of the English language ; to collect all these from Forster's biography would exceed our limits. Suffice it to remind the tourist that the "Deserted Village" was published in 1770, and that he may find in the churchyard of the Temple Church in London the grave of the poet whose beautiful lines will have drawn him to this village. It is difficult to imagine that Lissoy, even in the earlier days of Goldsmith, when he loitered on "the green" and "paused on every charm," could have so far diifered from all other villages of its country as to present the distinctly English characteristics pictured in the "Deserted Village." The ruins of the "village preacher's modest mansion" are still pointed out, where the poet's father may have thought himself "passing rich on forty pounds a year." The church is said to be on the site of that " decent church " where " fools who came to scoff remain'd to pray." The same village "Mill" may perhaps be standing, and the once "glassy brook" which now, "choked with sedges, works its weary way." It is, however, scarcely probable that in Goldsmith's childhood the Inn ever offered its guests the peculiarly English comforts of the ' ' Three Jolly Pigeons," — " Where village state-smen talked with looks profound And news much older than their ale went round.' The ' ' hawthorn bush," if it ever cast its shade there, has now disappeared, owing it is said to its having been cut down piece by piece and sold to tourists. In any case, pieces of thorn now palmed off' on verdant enthusiasts have not the slightest claim to be regarded as pieces of the genuine " hawthorn." Clonmacnois {Tea at Cottage. From Athlone 8| miles ly boat, cost about 5s. ; 13| miles by road). The word Clonmacnois means "Retreat of the Sons of the Noble." Far the best approach is by water, as the road curves round a long C, goes from bad to worse, and gives no sight of the ruins until you almost drop down on them. By water you get an admirable picture, the grey stone buildings, with the tall sentinel towers, standing amid green mounds, with the river lapping at their feet. On the right is the extraordinary ruin CLONMACNOIS 183 known as the Bishop's Palace (see below). The cemetery is a mass of lichened weather-beaten stones falling in every direction ; and in that plot of earth, thick with the dust of countless liuman beings, others are still laid to rest. What Kevin's city of Glendalough was to Wicklow, tlie Clonmacnois of Kieran was to the Western Irish. But, as usual, this religious settlement of the west had been established long before the saint began to build on the eastern coast. Founded about 550 by the wild winding river, Clonmacnois — "the meadow of the Sons of Nos " — stands fitly in a country where, as Dr. Petrie said, "loneliness and silence, save the sound of the elements, have an almost undisturbed reign." It occupied "in the 9th century a position second only to Armagh itself in popular reverence. . . . Two round towers, three crosses, an ancient castle, a well-preserved cashel, the ruins of seven churches, all genuine Celtic monuments, with but few traces of English work, unite to make Clonmacnois a most interesting spot for the historian or the archceologist " {Dr. Stokes). The founder, St. Kieran, was " no mythical character. " He was surnamed the "son of the carpenter," and after founding the church here died of "black jaundice," in 549, at the young age of 33. " In the time of Charlemagne (800) Clonmacnois was known in France and Germany as a great seat of learning, and Alcuin of York wrote . . . sending pecuniary assistance to the monks." On entering this "Royal Cemetery," as it has been called, where — " They laid to rest the seven Kings of Tara : There the sons of Cairbr6 sleep " — the visitor is struck by the crowd of graves and memorials of the dead. Miss Stokes has shown of what unusual value to archffiologists the inscriptions found here have been in assisting them to fix reliable dates to inscriptions found in other parts of Ireland, There appear to have been twelve churches originally. and the surviving seven "all seem specimens of the true old Irish style." Near the west wall, and outside it is O'Ruark's, or the great Round Tower, distinguished by its capless top, and a late specimen of its kind. This and the smaller one to the north- east may have been erected in the 10th or 11th century. If w^e accept the now most popular theory of these towers, — that. 184 DUBLIN TO GALAVAY though occasionally used as emergency treasure-houses for the monasteries, they were primarily belfries, — Clonmacnois must have heard an unusual amount of bell-ringing. Within the enclosure, near the above, is the famous High Cross (or " Cross of the Scriptures "), possibly the most beautiful in form and decoration of all the ancient crosses, unless perhaps the coeval "High Cross" at Mouasterboice be alone excepted. From the inscriptions, which state that Colman "made this cross on the King Flann," the date has been fixed by Miss Stokes at a.d. 914. The elaborate carving represents Christ in judgment, and the building of the adjoining church by St. Kieran. Close by is tlie Cathedral (or Temple MacDermot) built in 904 by King Flann Sinna and the Abbot Colman. It appears to have been rebuilt in 1089 and again in the 14th century, but the west doorway evidently survives from the earlier building. Notice the " antae " or wall-ends, so often found jutting out from the Irish west-fronts. One of the chief features is the rich north-side door, late, and carved in "perpendicular" style. St. Patrick is noticed above, between SS. Francis and Dominic (observe the quaint gi'in on the central face). In the chancel, from which the once large east window has disappeared, is an inscription recording the restoration in 1647 ; on the south side is the so-called "sacristy," vaulted over with a barrel I'oof, and surmounted by the smallest of the three belfries. This may, perhaps, be the original oratory of St. Kieran. A short distance from the Cathedral, on this " sacristy" side, a Cross, simpler and more weather-lieaten than the other, stands near the west end of Temple Hurpan, a comparatively late church, containing within it a very early window. Not far off is O'Melaghlin's Chapel. Behind the Cathedral is Temple Kieran, to which authorities assign the Norman date of 1167. According to the same authorities the O'Kclly Church close to tlie end of the Cathedral is coeval with it. Near the north wall is Temple Conor, now the Protestant Church, where service is held once a year. Temple Fhujhin (Finan), of tlie late Norman period, appears to have been built into the Round Tower adjoining it, the difficulty of proving wliich stood lure first is a nut hard in the cracking. The door of this — M'Carthy's — Tower is, like that of the High Scattery CLONMACNOIS 185 Tower, ou the ground level. " The ruins of the Episcopal Castle outside the cemetery of Clonmacuois are very striking ; it is still in exactly the same state as Cromwell left it 250 years ago, when his soldiers attempted in vain to blow it up. It was originally built by John de Gray, Bishop of Norwich, about the ytar 1210." The gem of the whole collection, however, might very easily be missed. This is the ruin of the mmnery about \ mile away. To find it follow the rough field road leading oft" on the east to a clump of trees, and by means of a stile enter the precincts. This little nuns' church was built in the latter half of the 12th century by Devorgil, the very flighty wife of O'Rorke, Prince of Brefny, and the cause of the English Conquest of 1172. A round-headed doorway and the chancel arch remain, and are rich in ornament, both zigzag and beaded, and are illuminated by weird suspicious faces full of witchery. The keystone of the arch has been roughly restored in order to hold it to- gether, but wisely no attempt has been made to imitate what is inimitable. (For detailed accounts see those by Fetrie, and Dr. Stokes, U.S. A. I. Joxmi. 1890.) Athlone is the junction for the line running north-westward to Roscommon, Claremorris, Westport, and Achill. Ballinasloe {Hotels : (both I.A.C., C.) Hayden's and Imperial, IJ inile from station).— It is a dull-looking town, and unless the tourist wishes to see how its three leaden-hued streets can repose under the graceful spire of its Roman Catliolic church, as indiff'erent about house paints as Mullingar, he should confine his visit here to the week of the Gkeat Fair. Though annually announced for the first Tuesday in October, and the four following days, this celebrated horse and cattle fair, which has generally ranked next to the Dublin fair in im- portance, practically begins with, if not before, dawn on the Monday of that week, and lasts till the crush and the fun of Saturday are over. Good horses, indeed, are quickly snapped up, and the purchaser who arrives on Tuesday will find himself "out of it " by twenty-four hours. The station, where a train of thirty or forty horse-boxes is no 186 DUBLIN TO GALWAY uncommon sight, presents a scene of overcrowding and business quite unique of its kind in Ireland. The stationmaster gives place to the barmaid of the refreshments and the lady-clerk of the telegraph ; in the cloak-room beds are substituted for valises ; and confusion reigns everywhere. On your right, as you enter the town, is Garbally House (Earl of Clancarty), and during the Sheep Fair the whole inner park is devoted to the use of some 20,000 bleating sheep. Within the town is bustle and bargain- ing. Exorbitant jarvies and excited horse-boys fill the road, or attempt, ■with maximum risk to life and limb, to thread their way through the groups of gaitered farmers. The latter are the most interesting figures on the street. Some, you will find, are remarkably tall, but none stout ; at our last visit to the fair, the fat farmer was as much a rara avis as a drunken one. On the look-out for mischief is the customary cordon of police, — a pain- ful element of Irish gatherings at present ; and the dresses of the girls give colour to a crowd which, to an English eye, is as novel as it is interesting. Five miles distant is Aghrim, the scene of the battle (July 12, 1691) between the forces of William III. under De Ginckell and those of James II. under St. Ruth, in which the latter were completely defeated and their commander slain (St. Ruth's Bush marks the spot where he was buried). This battle is annually commemorated by the Orangemen on "The Twelfth." Twenty-two miles west of Ballinasloe is Athenry {Hotel: Railway, near station), of much interest to the antiquarian, while a visit to the Dominican Friary will repay the general tourist ; but the village — once a royal town — is now poverty-stricken, although still a great hunting centre, the famous "Galway Blazers" meeting here. The town was walled in 1211, and was not long in attracting foes. Its history has been a tragic onu, bristling with the terrors of war. When the Earls of Glanricarde in 1577 swept the land of Connaught with fire and sword Athenry buried its full share of the slain. Again, however, it rose from its ruins, but only to fall before "Red Hugh's" destroying hand. Sacked and burnt, it never recovered from this savage blow. Entering by the gateway in the still remaining walls you have on the left the 13th-century Cusl/c, with its lofty gabled keep. In the centre of the town is the remnant of an ancient ATHENRY 187 cross iu front of the gate which leads to the Franciscan Friary. The church, which still retains its slender tower and spire, and contains the present Protestant church within its chancel, was founded by the Earl of Kildare in 1464. The best part of the building is the south transept, which once had a very finely cut window now ruined. A few yards off is the most interesting of all the ruins — the Dominican Priory. Some of the original church of 1241 still remains in the windows of the nave (south) and chancel (north), but most of it is later work. The chancel was burnt down in 1423 and, soon after, was rebuilt by the Pope's command. It has remains of an east window of the " Muckross " type; an eccentric inscription on the north wall; the "tasteless" tomb (in the centre) of Lady Bermingham ; and, on the south, the "sacristy," containing bones which ti'adition relates are those of the last monks. The nave once possessed in its west wall the finest wiudow (" Decorated ") in the church ; it had a little M'indow in the south-west corner which is said to have lighted the cell of a penitent of the last century. The curious " coat of arms " of Tanian the smith, upon a floor slab, deserves notice. The finest feature of the building, however, is the beautiful arcading in the north side aisle ; if not as old as the original church, this must be at least of 13tli-century date. There is an account of the church in the R. S.A.I. Handbook, 1897. Athenry is on a north and south line running from Limerick to Sligo, and this belongs to the G.S. and "W. Railway. We shall have to insert here the section dealing with it and those who wish to continue straight to Galway must skip to p. 206. LIMERICK Hotels. — Cruise's; (C.) Gleniworth ; (C.) George ; Haniia X.L. (Temp.). Distances.— Rail— Cork, 62 ; Killarney, 82 ; Tralee, 70 ; Limerick Junction, 21J ; Ennis, 24i ; Kilkee, 72i ; Galway, 9S\. Road— Cork, 03} ; Castloisland, 52} ; Killaruey, 64| ; Tralee, .63i ; Cashel, 37| ; Tipperary, 25 ; Adare, 11 ; Castleconnell, S ; Killaloe, 14| ; Ennis, 21|. Pop.— 38,518. Steamer to Kilrush by the Lower Shannon {see pink pages) Limerick is not a tourist town, and its hotels are purely com- mercial. It is, however, a busy industrial town possessing large flour-mills, bacon-curing establishments, butter and cream factories, etc. The lace-making for which it used to be famous has been revived after a time of depression. The Shannon Fisheries Company own the important salmon fisheries, and there is scarcely any rod-fishing for strangers. As a shipping port the town ranks fourth in Ireland. It is a garrison town, and last but not least its rejiutatiou for pretty girls is amply demon- strated by facts. By adopting electric lighting, and in its fine technical schools, its Carnegie free library and public museum, the authorities show signs of care for the citizens' welfare. Limerick is finely situated on both banks of the Shannon, at the head of the inlet known as the Lower Shannon, and is a good centre for the Lower Shannon scenery. It became the capital of the Danes, who were expelled from it by Brian Boroin)lie. From 1106 until 1174, when it was conquered by the English, it was the capital of the kings of Thomond or North Munster. ,yfSo'^ j^^a., PubHskedln-A-^-CBl; LIMERICK 189 The portion on "King's island" called English Town was founded in the reign of King John by William do Burgo, who built the castle for its defence. In the 15th century its fortifi- cations were extended to Irish Town south of it. The city in 1651 was taken by General Ireton. William III.'s siege of 1690, owing chiefly to Sarsfield's energetic defence, was raised ; but 13 months later Ginckell proved too strong even for that gallant defender, and Sar.sfield had to sign, upon the Treaty Stone, the famous document which bound William to respect and protect the old privileges of the Roman Catholics. The way in which the English side of the bargain was kept is sufficiently indicated by the name of the City of the Violated Treaty. The prosperity of the city dates from the foundation of Newtown-Pery by Mr. Sexton Pery in 1769. Bridges. — English Town is connected with Newtown-Pery by New or Mathew Bridge, so named after Father Mathow [Kill- arney Sect. p. 105), and by Ball's Bridge, a modern structure occu- pying the site of a bi'idge of great antiquity. Thomond Bridge, also occupying the site of a very ancient structure connects English town with County Clare. On the Clare side of the bridge stands the "Treaty Stone" mentioned above. By far the most impressive view of the town is that having the Treaty Stone in the foreground and looking back across the river at the walls of the castle, with the cathedral tower rising to the right. About a quarter of a mile to the south stands Sarsfield Bridge, erected in 1831 at a cost of £85,000, connecting the County of Clare with Newton-Pery. On this bridge a statue was erected in 1855 to Lord Fitzgibbon, who fell in the charge at Balaclava. Just opposite is the Shannon Rowing Club-house, one of the prettiest and best built of its kind, a real ornament to the city. Tliere is a long line of quays running from the Sarsfield Bridge to the floating docks, which, with the more recently con- structed graviug docks, have proved of great importance to the town. Newtown-Pery. — The better streets are all situated in this part of the city, which is laid out almost with the regularity of an American city, the streets being for the most part straight, and crossing each otlier at right angles, George's Street, futilely re-named O'Connell Street by the Nationalists, contains the principal shops and warehouses, many of them of imposing 190 LIMERICK appearance. "Westwards it is continued on the one side through Richmond Place to the Military Road, and on the other along Patrick Street through Rutland Street to New Bridge. It passes through the west part of Irish Town, which is connected by the same bridge with English Town; the old gables of the houses in both districts are noticeable. In Richmond Place there is a statue of Daniel O'Connell erected in 1857. In the People^s Park, south-west of the railway station, is a monument to Spring Rice — a lofty Ionic column surmounted by a statue. At the junction of Glentworth Street with Upper Baker Street there is a handsome Clock-Tower, erected in 1867 in honour of Alderman Tait. A statue of General Sarsfield was erected iu 1881 behind the Roman Catholic Cathedral. King John's Castle, erected by William de Burgh in the reign of King John for the defence of English Town, is situated at Thomond Bridge. It is one of the most important specimens of the old Norman fortresses now existing in the country, being still iu good preservation. Five massive towers are connected by high walls of great thickness and solidity. On the side facing the river the marks of shot and shell, made on the walls centuries ago during the different sieges, are plainly visible from Thomond Bridge. The interior of the castle is occupied by barracks, the buildings of which, overlooking the walls, are very little in harmony with the older structure. St. Mary's Protestant Episcopal Cathedral, in English Town near New Bridge, is approached through a pleasant churchyard. On each side of the entrance path are the pinnacles of Ireton's House (or " Galwey's Castle"), which till late in the century stood here. It occupies the site of the palace of Donald More O'Brien, who, about the time of the arrival of the English, 1172 A.D., gave up certain of his lauds "in free and perpetual alms" to Brictius, then Bishop of Limerick. The diocese of Limerick dates, however, from the 5th century, but the primitive cathedral, which occupied the site of the present St. Munchin's Church, was destroyed in the 9th century. The cathedral, rebuilt on the new site about 1180, was enlarged in 1207 by the addition of a chancel. It subsequently underwent alterations of various kinds. It was restored in 1860. Parts of the fine West Door are ancient, and the modern woi'k is good. The tower has a modern top surmounted by the "stepped" pinnacles and battlements of the Jerpoint character LIMERICK 191 {Killarney Sect. p. 137). Battlemented parapets of the same kind run round the nave and chancel. "Within is sombre gloom. There is little architectural orna- ment besides the scraps of Norman mouldings and shafts spared by a pitiless stucco-brush, and a iine bit of arcadiny in the S. Transept. In the latter transept is the Galwey tomb ; and the tracery of the near window of the adjoining South Aisle should be observed. It is a network of interwoven "ogees" of un- common design. The remarkable misericorde seats of carved oak in the nave are well worthy of notice. The old oak carving is a rare thing in Ireland, and here this woodwork, probably cut about 1490, is "the most curious feature of the church" {li.S.A.I. Journal, 1895). The arcading just outside the churchyard, and now in ruins, is a remnant of the Old Exchange which was taken down with Iretou's House some years ago. The bells are eight in number and in the key of F. The oldest, the D and F bells, bear Latin inscriptions with the date 1673. During the siege of the city in 1690 a cannon was mounted by the Irish on the battlements of the cathedral, from which a shot, directed by a very skilful gunner of the name of Burke, nearly proved fatal to King William. St. John's Roman Catholic Cathedral is reached from St. Mary's Cathedral by Mary and John Streets. It is adorned by one of the handsomest spires in Ireland, and, within, by a dark and elaborate stone reredos over the great altar. Between the south altars is a very beautiful marble statue by Benzoni of the Virgin Mary — perhaps the work of art in Limerick. The best of the other churches is that of the RedeTnptorists, a short walk southwards along George's Street and Military Road. This large building contains in the north aisle a bronze statue of St. Peter (?), with toes polished to an unusual extent by a curious means. The best excursions are to Adare ; the Lower Shannon {steamer) ; Castleconnell ; Killaloe, Lough Derg and the Upper Shannon (steamer). For distances see p. 188. 192 EXCURSION TO AD ARE. This is an enjoyable trip and deserves a day of good sunny weather. It may be accomplished either by rail or road, the two running very close together. In | mile join the cross roads (right) and then forward again. At Patricksicell, 5^ miles is a Well (right) with fragmentary carving, said to have been broken by a soldier's bullet. Adare Manor is the seat of the Earl of Dunraven. In the demesne is one of the most remarkable assemblages of ruins in the kingdom. The word Adare, in old documents Athdara, the Ford of the Oak, sufficiently indicates the character of the trees which once lined the banks of the Maigue. Adare {Hotel: (I.A.C.) Dunraven Arms). — The hotel is under the estate management and is good. Much frequented in the hunting season by sportsmen who hunt with the Co. Limerick hounds. Tickets (free) for the house and ruins to be had on application at estate olfice in the village. The history of Adare goes back to the erection of the Rath, the early fort on which the castle of the Normans was built about the twelfth century. Around this and the church, also built then by the invaders, grew the Norman town which was populous enough in 1226 to obtain the English king's grant for an annual fair. Then large religious houses were established, and the town enclosed within walls, which have now practically disappeared. "At the commencement of the present century Adare had dwindled down to a collection of thatched cottages," numbering less than two dozen {Dun- raven Memorials) ; but with the coming of the second Earl of Dunraven (1824-1850), fortune smiled upon it again. The Village Gate of Adare Manor is opposite the hotel. For a view of the Rouse turn right wlien the path forks within. It is a fine modern mansion built in 1832, and " the greater portion " was " designed by an amateur, a mason named Conolly, . . . not a single drawing having been furnished by an architect " (Memorials). The special feature to note is the beautiful modern oak carving on overmantels, staircase, etc., all done by local talent. The Quin family is from the younger branch of the descendants of OlioU Olum, King of Munster in the 3rd century. EXCURSION TO ADARE 193 The left road from the above fork leads to the Poor or Francis- can Abbey, said to be the most celebrated of all the Munster monasteries. The foundation stone was laid in 1464, but most of the arches and much of the work are rude and plain. The effective tracery of the south and east windoivs is similar to that at the Augustinian Abbey, and at Muckross, Killarney. One is reminded of the latter ruin also by the cloisters on the N. side, much darkened by a giant central yew-tree. Across the grass, and near the village bridge, are seen the remains of the Castle, also within the park. A castle is known to have stood here before 1226, and may have been founded some years previously by the Anglo-Normans. "On the attainder of 'silken' Thomas, in 1536, the castle was forfeited to the Crown," and, passing to the Desmonds, was called Desmond Castle. It was dismantled by Cromwell. The Gate Tower contains the groove for the portcullis. Of the keep, built on the ancient Rath, the ruins are not imposing ; they are south-east of the inner ward. Near the castle is the old Parish Church of St. Nicholas. The chancel contains probably the original Norman walla, is "about the oldest building now remaining in Adare," and dates from something between 1280 and 1320. In 1806 it ceased to be used for the Protestant service, which was transferred to the August- inian building. On the left (or west) as you come out of the Village Gate is the White Abbey of the Trinitarians, which was founded before 1299. The Church, which is now the B.C. Church, was at the beginning of the century a baU-alley, and but for the good (second) Earl would have become a potato store. Its chief feature is the massive central tower. The spacious and good interior is beautified by the reredos screen. The adjoining i^oMTitetra was the gift of the (second) Countess, 1851. Close to the Bridge, and nearer Limerick, is the Black Abbey of the Augustinians, founded in 1315 ; part of which is used as the Protestant Church. The slender proportions of the tower, as of that of the Franciscan Abbey, will strike the visitor, as well as the "Muckross" tracery of the east window of the Church. This was restored in 1852, but the interior is still choked up, not only by the heavy tower supports, but by the Duuraven pews. The later cloisters have a lavatory sink ; the Refectory is now the school. 13 194 FROM LIMERICK DOWN THE SHANNON. By steamer on the Sliannon to Kilrush, thence by train to Kilkee. A bill of sailing, with fares, should be obtained from Lower Shannon Office, Limerick, or Kilrush. Shortly after leaviug the qviay at Limerick we pass on the left, or County Limerick side the beautiful demesne of Lord Emly, at the extremity of whose property the rocky eminence of Carrig-o'- Gunnel (Rock of Connel), crowned by the picturesque ruins of an ancient castle, forms a prominent object of the landscape. The castle, originally founded by the Knights Templar, was blown up and dismantled after its surrender to the forces of William IIL in 1691. On the Clare side, nearly opposite Lord Emly's demesne, are the extensive woods of Cratloekeel, covering the mountain's side. Farther on we pass Dromore Castle, the magnificent residence of Lord Limerick, and Beagh Castle, and Horse Rock Lighthouse, the latter a prominent object in the middle of the river. On the Clare side (right), before reaching Foynes. we pass the estuary of the Fergus, called Lough Fergus. This is a very archipelago ; and on Canon Island is an ancient Norman monastery. Behind Beeves Lighthouse (left), in mid-stream, is the mouth of the Deel river, on which is — AsKEATON (railway station), remarkable for its ancient buildings. Its Nonnan castle of the Desmonds ; Knights Templars' Church ; and Franciscan Abbey (1419), with uncommon cloisters, are all worth visiting. Four miles inland, and south from Askcaton, is BallingraDe Junction, which is 2 miles from Ralhkcalc station. Here Is another Desmond Castle and several ancient buildings, including an "Early English" Priory. At the beginning of the last centui-y some Lutheran refugees from the Palatinate settled in this neighbourhood. Then, leaving the disused pier of Foynes on our left, we put in on certain days in the week at Kildysart, which serves the wide trainless district between Ennis and Kilrush. On other days the steamer continues until Redgap, on Labasheeda Bay, is reached. A little beyond, and on the opposite side of the Shannon, is the bright, well-built village of Glin. Glin Castlo has been for centuries the seat of the Knight of Glin, called the " Rod Knight," to dislingui.sh this branch of the Fitzgerald family from those of the White Kniglit, and the Black Knight (of Kerry). LIMERICK AND CLARE 95 <^ TARBERT — SGATTERY ISLAND 195 About 5 miles from Redgap, along this well-uamed "idle river," are the tall lighthouse and crumbling pier of Tarbert {Hotel) ; Listowel Railway station is 12| miles away {Coach). From Listoivel it is by rail 50^ miles to Limerick ; to Tralee, 19J miles ; and 9^ miles to Ballybunnion. Ballybunnion (Castle Hotel), on the south of the Shannon, on the Kerry coast, is a favourite seaside resort, and lias many attractions — a beautiful beach, high cliffs with caves and natural rock-arches of wondrous forma- tion, and most interesting walks in all directions. It is connected with Listowel by a "Lartigue" railway, the first constructed in the United Kingdom. The rail is a single one, raised 3 feet from the ground. A special Government (Balfour) boat plies locally between Tarhert arid Kilrush, thus connecting the south-side coach with the north-side train service, but only in the season. Soon after leaving Tarbert the round tower of Scattery Island couies into view, and beyond it Loop Head, dim and far. The older name of Scattery is Inis (the island) Cathaig (of the Cathach). The latter was a monster, mastered and chained by St. Senan, who founded in the 6th century cells and oratories in County Cork, the islands of the Fergus, on Mutton Island, and upon this island. He died in 544, and is re- vered as patron in several French churches. The monastery became famous and attracted Kieran, founder of Clonmacuoise, who became an official. Even St. Aidan, " founder of Lindisfarne, and consequently predecessor of the Bishops of Durham," may perhaps have been the Aidan who lived here. We read of the house being destroyed twice in the 9th century by Norsemen, devastated by Brian Boru, plundered by the Danes, and captured and long held by the English. Granted as a fishing village to Limerick in later days, it passed to the mayor of that city, who "asserted his rights by shooting an arrow into the river west of the island " {KiUarney Sect. p. 115). The legend of St. Cauuara, which Moore has put into verse, tells how that holy nun sailed to Senan's island to make her request — I come with humble heart to share Thy morning and thy evening prayer. But the good lady met with as stern a refusal as the gentle Kathleen of Glen- dalough, and being a relative of St. Senan was allowed only to receive the Blessed Eucharist, and, after death, was buried on the foreshore. There is an interesting description of the ruined buildings of Scattery in the E. S.A.I. Handbook, 1898 {IVestro])])) ; a few notes will here suffice. The Round Tower is the tallest in Ireland, and is exceptional in having a door on the ground level. Miss Stokes notes that as its masonry is not "hammer-dressed," it may be dated among the earliest (9th to 10th century). The 196 KILEUSH— KILKEE Cathedral, between the tower and the shore, is of the same date ; it has a good specimen of the early west doors. The Clogh Oir, or "Golden Bell" of Senan is still preserved by the Keane family of Ennis, hereditary keeper ("coarb") of the treasure, and Miss Stokes believes it to be "the very bell used by the founder." On the north side of the cathedral is an Oratory of large and early masonry, with a romanesque chancel arch of later date. West of the tower is the Well (or "tober" ) of Senan; and Temple Senan is a chapel, much rebuilt, on high ground, some 170 yards away to the north. Tradition says that Ard-na-n- Angeal, 300 yards south-west of tower, is the height on which the saint communed with the angel before defeating the "catliach." There are also ruins of the later Temple-a-Marv (of the dead), and a 16th-century Castle. Kilrush {Hotel : Vaudeleur Arms) is our last pier. From this small market town it is 8| miles by train to Kilkee ; and for the journey a special train (not always published) awaits the arrival of steamers. Change at Moyasta Junction. Kilkee {Hotels : Moore's ; Falvy's Royal Marine ; West End (season only) ; Stella Maris ; Victoria) is one of the most charming watering-places in Ireland, finely situated in the neighbourhood of a great variety of magnificent rock scenery. The bay is sheltered from the waves of tlie Atlantic by a ledge of the Dunganna rocks. The town is built close to the sea, along a semicircular strand with a bright, smooth sandy surface. Baths have been erected near the beach, and there are also chalybeate springs. Irish moss is found in great quantities in the neighbourliood, and the sea-pinks grow in profusion. There is good bathing in the bay, and every second house has apartments to let. Kilkee has reached the stage of being comfortable without being too sophisticated, and may be warmly recommended. Mixed bathing allowed round the corner ! There are good golf-links. Piijiiig Hole, Look-out Cliff, the Amphitheatre, and Bishop's Island are all bits of this remarkable coast that should be seen. The latter has an early oratory ; and legend places here a bishop, who fled from the famine-stiicken mainland to feast on his private island store. When, however, the famine and his own fare were alike at an end, and this fasting philanthropist sought to return, the raging sea had widened the chasm and chained him to his solitary fate. In the bay, behind, the CASTLECONNELL AND THE FALLS OF DOONAS 197 Intrinsic perished in 1835, amid scenes of great distress. Above the sinking ship and drowning women a seagull was seen to hover ; and soon after the same bird turned shoreward and dropped among the people on the cliff a lady's glove. The Cave of Kilkee is about 2 miles from the town, and is best visited by boat from the harbour, a fine view being in this way obtained of the cliff scenery along the shore. The arched entrance to the cave is about 60 feet in height. Our attention is at once attracted by the numerous jutting rocks, the stalactites depending from the roof, and the " variety of rich metallic tinges from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water." As we proceed into the cave it gradu- ally diminishes in height. The walks along the coast are of great interest, especially southwards. The dark rocks of chipping flakes, hollowed beneath and broken into fantastic shapes by the waves, form a grand setting to the luminous blues, greens, and snowy foam of the Atlantic breakers. Loop Head (16 miles from Kilkee), properly Leap Head, or Cuchulliu's Leap. The tradition is that Cuchullin a knight of Ulster, on being pursued by a termagant woman called Mai, reached the extremity of Clare, and discovering that she was still close in pursuit, leapt on to a small rock about 25 feet fi'om the mainland. The termagant succeeded also in reaching the rock, whereupon Cuchullin immediately leapt back, but the woman, not succeeding in her second attempt to follow him, fell into the waves and perished. See West Clare Railway, pp. 204, 214. CASTLECONNELL AND THE FALLS OF DOONAS. From Limerick these may be reached either by rail (about 9| miles) or road (Falls, 6 miles ; Castleconnell, 8 miles). The railway line is that going to Killaloe by way of Killonan. Visitors who choose this method will have to cross Castle- connell Bridge, and walk back about a mile or more along the river bank to the Falls. By road either side of the river may be taken, but the most usual way is to go by the west side and return by the east, visiting Castleconnell en route. Cyclists following this method are advised to keep to the main road until they reacli Cloonlara Church, as though there are several tempting roads leading off on the right, they turn and twist so 198 LIMERICK TO CASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC. mucli tliat no distance is saved, and the cyclist may find him- self well on tlie way back to Limerick without intending it. From Cloonlara turn right, and continue straight down to the river side by a gate ojiening on to the well-kei)t lawn of the Angler's Rest, a charming little tea-house of a kind unusual in Ireland. Visitors are received here for a night in a simple way and anglers often stay for weeks. From here the jjath to Castleconnell may be followed along the river's bank, but this necessitates the negotiation of several awkward gates, and can- not be commended to cyclists. This walk runs through the grounds of Doonas House, the ancient seat of the family of Lord Massy, whose residence. Hermitage, is on the other side of the river, not far from Mountshannon, which extends for more than a mile beside the water. On this side, the east, there is a path near Hermitage Avhich also gives a view of the Falls. At the end of the walk through the grounds of Doonas there is a ferry to Castleconnell. The Falls or Bapids of Doonas have no sudden drop, but extend over a slope of a mile or more of broken water diversified by moss-covered boulders. In flood-time not a stone is to be seen, nothing but the boiling, angry water. The great breadth of the river, and the innumerable rocky islets, some bare and dark, others having stunted trees or shrubs, give much variety to the scene. Castleconnell {Hotels: (C.) The Shannon; Castle (small)), 9.5 miles from Limerick by rail and 8 miles by road, is finely situated on the Shannon. In the vicinity of the village there is a chalybeate spring, at one time much frequented. The village, much cleaner and neater than most Irish villages, takes its name from an old castle of the O'Briens, kings of Munster, which crowns a high and solitary rock over- looking the Falls of Doonas. The grandson of Brian Boroimhe is said to have been inveigled into the castle by the Prince of Tlioniond, who, having put out his eyes, afterwards cruelly murdered ,him. The fortress was subsequently occupied by Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster. In 1688 it held out for King James, but was taken after a siege of two days, and blown up with gunpowder. Though Castleconnell is to be ranked liigh upon the fisher- man's list, there is hardly any free fishing, and the salmon FAI,I,H OK DOONAM K11,1,AI.()K IHH llNliilip; is lot. III. till' iiJiuiil rjilcs. 'I'ln' Imli'l ii in IIik IimikIm dl' I lui liiiii, Knriijht oiid Son, iiricf wImmii I In- will Kimwii iiuIm mn i';illr,l. 'I'w.. K! 11). SMJm.ill WiT.v III 111,' iisl ol IhoMn ,';MI;.,lit IiiTi' ill I 111' ;ici;i:iiiii. ( »'lliii|f,N'M Hill null! rroMHi'N llu' SIimiiiich ii I'i-u mllivi iiliovd ( 'iml Iccniiiii'll. Ill IWlVdoiinrn'llrliMi, Kliip; nr'niniiKiinl, liiul iiI.IimI " HUKcii 'I'lmiimM " in IiIm rolirllliiii iikivIiinI lliMiry VIII. 'I'lio UIiik ilclniiiillioil to Hiilultiii (Idiior, mul ()I'cI(M'imI tlii> liiii'il |)i<|iiily, lidi'cl 1,1'nMaril (li'iiy, In (Hiiii|iii| liliii In riMiniiiKiit Mio riipitl Hiiin'iMiiiii'y uinl HWir will) doiiHii'l. mind |iiiyin/.; ii i'tiii,Hon,'i.lil(i luicii I'm- fruod ii|iiiil. 'riid iiMliin(.{ id 11,11 iMOHrrvdd wil.ii (Im nxci'iilioii of ii uli'ip on Llio Mv\\. Iiaiik in I'liliniaiy iitid Manili, iind ii lioiil iind Im;iiI- niiiii ('ohI. IOh, II diiy. Tim hcuihoii IiihIh h'oiii J^'dhniMry lo Oiliilinr, iiKiluHivii. Tim l,n1s(tHido lldl.nl in vnty I'lr^VS Hliindiiif/ ill il.M own f^romidH, willi liim vinwH, iKuir Mm hIiiiiiiici' cpiiiy linliiiid Mm Hliilioii. Tim oUmr lliico IioLhIm urn groii|iiid near t.lm oiiil of 1.1m liiid;-rii on l.lm o|i|ioHil,(i hIioi'h. ()rii.i'ii'H, l.lioiigli MiniiU, Ih (ixi'.liiMivo, willi an .'ii'i.iliMU'al.io oliiuili'ilo, iiiid in iiioro or It'MH private, liaviiiK no luir. II. liii.s HlrnlidiiiH of rodllHliin// Id li'l, ii;i li.'ivi' Miiiim 111' I, 111) ollmr IioI.oIm, liiil iih I.Iiuho vary I'ldiii year In yr.'ir, i'iii|iiiriii;i am ln'iil, tiiadn on llm H|iot.. Tim HihI. cliiircli wii,'* riininlnl licrn ill l.lm Mil ennlnry liy SI,. Dfilua, who f(avo lii.s nann' In llm |i|!i,(m>, and waH Himeiicilnd hy l''l.iiiii,iii ill IIiIh liiHliopiii". 'i'lm o/ifrnf I'/iiirr/i. in l.lm town \h t,lm lilllr rli!i|irl (ilodii l,o llm catlmi liiil , willi a. vi'iy lii(di-|ii|,i'hnd riiiif; llii;i "I'riri.i < ;iidrr;i . . . lo hn ii 1 1 riliii I od In ML li'lii.iiiiiiii " (Mil rrin/). Tim niaiiMivn lower of Ihn Nui'iiwui CaLlmdral in thai IniiMiiij;'!! ino.il .'il iilvin/< I'eat.nre ; llm ii|i|irr lnowii paii, Willi hal I Iriiieiilii ill iiiiieli later I, hail the /;i'ay |iiiit,ioii heiHJilh. There in a very tilalior;i.tii Noniuiu- Ihnir 200 LIMERICK TO CASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC. inside the church (south wall), wliich may perhaps have led to King O'Brien's tomb. "Kiukora," the palace of King Brian Boru, once stood, so says the story, near the bridge of Killaloe. Lough Derg or Dearg is the largest lake in the course of the Shannon, being 23 miles in length. The Shannon steamer leaves Killaloe early in the morning, and after traversing the •whole length of the Lough, goes on up the Shannon to Banagher. This is only in the season. See 2nnTc pages. Though the southern entrance, as also indeed the northern end of the lough, has no attractions comparable with the central reaches, the boat passes very pleasantly between the green quarried slopes of Arra Mountain on the right and the Slieve Bernagh on the left. There is certain soft beauty about Scariff Bay (pier). On its north side is Iniscaltra ("the island burying-ground "), or Holy Island on which are some ancient buildings of unusual interest. St. Caimin founded a church here in the 7th century, and in all probability the western end of the church now stand- ing is part of that building. The chancel, however, is much later, and is dated by Miss Stokes 1007 A.D. It was, she says, "built by King Brian Borumhe (Boru), and this building marks the transition to the enriched round-arch style of Ireland." It is thus an important basis for dating many ancient buildings in Ireland. From the remnants remaining, it is evident that the west door was richly carved. Hard by is a Rouiid Totver of, perhaps, the 10th century, which is all of one kind of stone, and shows the "first idea of the arch." The chronicler Marian "speaks of a St. Anmchadh, who, coming fi-om Iniscaltra, travelled to Germany, and became a recluse at Fulda " {Stokes). On the same side as Scariff Bay is Mountshannon, where there is a comfortable old-fashioned hotel which can put up 20 to 30 anglers in the season. "Dapping" with the natural fly is a favourite method of the sport in early summer. The charge per day for man and boat is 7s. 6d. Otherwise fishing free. The Shannon steamers do not stop here but at Williams- totvn, a short distance above. The scenery around Mount- shannon is pretty enough to satisfy those who have no taste for fishing. On the opposite side of the lough is Youghal Bay, across which we have a good view of the Devil's Bit Mountain, PORTUMNA 201 80 called from the curious notch in its outline. According to the tradition it was the devil who bit the piece out of the mountain, but, finding the morsel too hard for his digestion, he is said to have vomited it at Cashel in Tipperary, where it is known as the "Rock of Cashel." The pier in Dromineer Bay {Hotel), the next inlet on this east shore, serves the town of Nenagh, 6 miles inland, and faces the charming house called .S'^ David's. Between this and Island More we get the best scenery on the loch, and obtain a good view of the well-defined and highest point in Silvermine Jlountains to the south, beyond Nenagh. Away to the west, behind Williamstown, are the Scalp and other points of the Slieve Aughty group, dim and far. Then the "Devil's Bit" pops up again on the right, behind the ruined tower of Castle Biggs, and on the left (west) we pass Eossmore {pier) before seeing the Clanricarde Castle and demesne on the same side. The principal shooting preserves here are owned by Lord Clanricarde and the Earl of AVest- meath. Portumna {Inn) is in a somewhat decayed condition, and possesses the ruins of a monastery and the remains of an ancient castle. The monastery, which belonged to the Dominican friars, was founded on the site of a very ancient Cistercian chapel dedi- cated to St. Peter and St. Paul. The Dominicans were confirmed in their possession by a bull of Pope Martin V. dated 8th October 1426. The walls are comparatively entire. The council, presided over by the Earl of Straff"ord, convened for the purpose of estab- lishing His Majesty's claim to the forfeited estates in Connaught, held its sitting in Portumna Castle, but the members having vrefused to admit the royal claims were sent to Dublin as prisoners under escort of the sheriff. A brief view of the "Abandoned Railway" may be had on the east (right) bank just after leaving Portumna Bridge. The end of the deep cutting is visible for a moment. This twelve- mile lino was laid down between Portumna and Parsonstown, but owing to a dispute between the Company and the Board of Works it was abandoned. The country-folk ripped up the rails and sleepers. A motor bus runs twice a day each way between Portumna and Ballyquirk. 202 LIMERICK TO CASTLECONNELL, KILLALOE, ETC. We have now fairly left Lough Derg, and are once more sailing against the placid stream of the river through a country that is "sometimes tame, sometimes ugly, not seldom beautiful, but never either grand or picturesque." On each side are flat meadows supplying good grazing, and dropping to the river in a fringe of rushes which provides many a snuggery for the exten- sive population of waterfowl. The chief features on the land- scape are the red and black guide-posts, which are, doubtless, indispensable to "the man at the wheel" in flood time. A few miles above Portumna the Shannon was almost unnavi- gable until the commissioners deepened the bed of the river. During these operations a number of very interesting prehistoric relics were brought to light. In the greatest depths stone hatchets were found. In a sti'atum overlying this were bronze spears and swords ; a still nearer deposit contained implements of iron, such as swords and spear-heads ; and in the strata next the surface more modern implements, among which were anti- quated firelocks. Banagher {Hotels : M'Intyre's ; (C.) Miss Miller's (Temp.)) is a market town on the left bank of the river, and the railway terminus of a branch line from Clara. The river is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of seven arches, completed in 1843, which is protected by two towers and a battery : connected with it there are large barracks. About a mile from the town is the well-known Banagher distillery. In the vicinity are the ruins of Garry Castle, the ancient fortress of the Macloghlans, the last representative of whom died a little more thau half a century ago. He has been regarded as the " last Irish chief." At Banagher those who have come by rail from Dublin meet the Shannon steamer to go south. Northward the river winds away 32 miles to Athlone, 8^ miles short of which are the celebrated ruins at Clonmacnois (see p. 182) but there is no means of traversing this part of the Shannon except by private enterprise. LIMERICK TO SLIGO BY RAIL via ENNIS, ATHENRY AND TUAM JUNCTION. After " fetching a compass " round the entire eastern half of the city, the line crosses the low-banked Shannon ; and from the bridge we get far and away the best view of Limerick, in LIMERICK TO SLIGO 203 whicli the beautiful spire of the R.C. Catliedral is the leading feature. Then running over well-wooded flats we pass Cratloe Castle, and Bunratty Castle, once the seat of the De Clares and the Thomonds, with histories which moved Thackeray to romance wildly over two pages of his Sketch Book, Beyond Six-mile Bridge the rails pass between some small lakes (I'ight) and — 3 miles to the left — Ncwmarkct-on-Fcrgus. This village is just south of Dromoland, the seat of Lord Inchiquin, which is in sight from the train (left). The family (O'Brien) claim descent from King "Brian Boru," who fell at Clontarf, 1014. About 2 miles up-stream from Ardsollus Station (19| miles) is QuiN Abbey, an extensive and well-preserved ruin, founded for Franciscan friars, and dating probably irom 1402. An examina- tion of the ruins would seem to indicate that the building had been added to at different periods. It has recently been restored at gi'eat cost. It is of special interest as having been sur- rounded by a fortress, either of Norman period or earlier. In the adjoining cemetery there are some ancient monuments. The best things at Clare Castle (23 miles) are the fine meadows, with the ruins of a castle situated on a small island in the river Fergus. Close to the railway line (right) are the fine ruins of Clare Abbey, founded in 1195 by Donald O'Brien, King of Munster, for Augustinian canons regular. Ennis, 24^ miles (Ref.-Rm. ; Hotels: (C.) Old Ground; (I.A.C., C.) Queen's ; (I.A.C.) Carmody's), is one of the most cheerful-looking towns in Ireland, and, whilst comparing well in this respect with Sligo, wears more signs of prosperity than Cork, Waterford, and several other towns of greater fame. It is clean and has good houses, buildings, and some fair shops. The peojjle are of unusually brisk and business-like character. On the far side of O'Connell's cloud - swept statue is the chief historical building — the Franciscan Abbey. The chancel arch of this 13th-century building supports an unpleasant but curious tower bristling with late and spiky pinnacles. The pleasantest bit of the town, as usual, is at the Bridge over the brown and rushing river which gives the place its name. Beyond the Infirmary is the "Martyrs'"' Pillar, erected in memory of the trio "who suffered death in Manchester, 1867 " ; and chiefly noticeable for the inscribed details concerning its builders, even to the name of the stone- 204 LIMERICK TO SLIGO cutter. In the R.O. Cathedral is an unusually realistic and coloured group of figures before the N. altar. Some mural paintings should be observed. From Ennis the West Clare Railway passes westward by Corofln, where there is good fishing in Longh luchiquin, Ennistymon (station for Lisdoon- varna), Lehinch, Miltown Malbay, Kilkee (47 miles), and Kilrush on the Shannon. See page 214. Beyond Ennis limestone in fragments appears to be tbe despair of the farmer, for even the innumerable miles of inter- secting walls do not exhaust so fertile a crop. Soon after you see Incbicronan Lough, which encircles the island ruin of O'Brien's 12-century abbey. Tubber ("the well") is one mile over the Gahvay county boundary ; and a few minutes after passing Loughcutra Castle, you see the conspicuous spires and the prettily embowered school of Gort (32f miles), a comparatively prosperous town, \\ath a barracks, workhouse, etc.^ The town takes its name from the time when King Gnairt had a palace there. Three miles south- west of Gort is Kilmacduagh, with 7th - century ruins, an ancient fort, and a round tower which leans considerably from the perpendicular. At Athenry Junction, 6O5 miles (see page 187) we cross the Midland Great Western Railway for Galway. From Athenry it is 16 miles northwards to Tuam {Hotel: Guy's Imperial), a pleasant, and in some ways smart little town. On the other hand it looks the humblest of cities ; yet it remained the seat of a Protestant archbishop as late as 1834, and traces its importance back to the 6th-centui'y saint Jarlath, who founded a monastery here. There are some good houses and one or two large shops. In the centre is a fine ancient Cross with carvings, described thus by Miss Stokes: — "Crucifixion on one side ; figure of a bishop on the other ; a funeral pro- cession, apparently, on the reverse." There are inscriptions both ancient and modern, and much interlaced work. Tlie chief buildings in the town are the two Cathedrals, that ol St. Mary (Church of Ireland) and that of St. Jarlath (Roman Catholic). The former carries the mind back to the time when Ireland was divided into a number of small kingdoms, and when Tuam was the metropolitan see for Connaught. At that time there were seven churches in Tuam. Of these ancient churches 1 " It looked as if it wondered how the deuce it got into the midst of such desolate country, and seemed to hore itself there considerably."— Thackeray. DUBLIN TO GALWAY 205 nothing remains but the chancel of St. Mary's and a small part of the old parish church, which now stands in the middle of the ancient burial ground close to the present Cathedral. The chancel arch is of Hiberno-Romanesque architecture, and consists of six circumscribed semicircles, elaborately ornamented in low relief. Dr. Petrie, In writing of the church, says, "Of the ancient church of Tuam the chancel only remains ; but fortunately it is sufficient to make us acquainted with its general style of architectiu-e, and to show that it was not only a larger, but more splendid structure than Cormac's church at Cashel, and not unworthy of the powerful monarch to whom it chiefly owed its erection. The arch mouldings consist of diamond, fret, and varieties of the chevron, all carved with exquisite perfection. The original East window of the chancel remains. It is a triplet carved with most elaborate interlaced work, like that of the ancient Irish crosses. This window is oue of the most perfect examples I know of interlaced ornament in stone." Joined to the East end of the Cathedral is a much older church, which was used as a Cathedral till the present one was opened in 1S78, after being fifteen years in erection, at an outlay of over £20,000. The old church is now used as a Synod Hall, a portion of it being set apart as a Diocesan Library. This valuable library was presented to the diocese by the Rev. Jos. Henry, D.D., formerly British chaplain in Lima, Peru. In the Synod Hall are some beautifully carved and inlaid choir stalls, which were found in Italy and were purchased by the late Mr. E. J. Cooper of Markree Castle, for £3000, and after his decease presented to the diocese. Outside the Roman Catholic Cathedral, at the far end of the town, are several statues, iueludiug one to Father MacHale, by Farrell. Within is a baldachino of marble. After Tuam we go on to Claremorris, a junction with the Midland Great Western line to Westport, and from thence there is nothing to remark on till Collooney, 7 miles south of Sligo, where we join the rails of the other company to run into the terminus, see p. 246. Collooney has come into prominence in connection with the railway to Belmullet planned to form a link in the "All-Red Route " between Great Britain, Canada, and Australia. The new line is 90 miles long, and the terminus is to be at Blacksod Bay. By this method it is reckoned that 24 hours can be saved on the journey. Belmullet Harbour is one of the finest in Ireland, and the new harbour works will adapt it to receive a line of ocean steamers. Having thus completed the tour of the cross-line between Limerick and Sligo, we may resume our journey westward from where we left it off at Athenry (p. 187) en route for Galway. 206 GALWAY. Hotels.— (I.A.C., C.) JRailway at the Station; Mack's Boyal; and others smaller in Eyre Square ; Eglinton, Salthill. Distance from Dublin 126i miles. Gahvay to Spiddle by car (Hi) ; by rail to Clifden, via, Oughterard (46). Steamers.— To and from Ballyvaughan three times a week in summer ; every second day all the year to the Aran Islands. Chief Places of Interest.— Protestant Church of St. Nicholas ; Lynch Castle and other specimens of ancient street architecture ; University College ; Claddagh ; Salthill ; Bay of Galway ; Islands of Aran. Pop. 13,255. Almost nothing is known of the history of Galway until the arrival of the English, when the town and adjoining district were under the protection of O'Flaherty. In the 13th century it was given to Rich, de Burgo, who strengthened its fortifications and made it the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, the principal families of whom, thirteen in number, were known as the "tribes" of Galway. In 1270, sixty years later than the fortifying of Athenry, its walls were built, and very soon it acquired great commercial importance, and began to be much frequented by Spanish merchants. To the intercourse with Spain are ascribed certain architectural peculiarities still to be seen among the older buildings. Some of the houses retain fantastic ornamental carvings, and many of the older buildings have a court in the centre with a gateway opening into the street. After much fighting and suffering during the Cromwellian war, the citizens surrendered, in 1691, their Jacobite guns to the English under Ginckell, who was then passing on his way from the field of Aghrim to the "Treaty Stone" of Limerick. James Lynch Fitz-Stephen, who in 1493 was mayor, "built the choir of St. Nicholas's Church at tlie west end, and put painted glass in the windows." This is the famous Warden who, accord- ing to one version of the story, tried and condemned his own son, because in a fit of jealousy he murdered a rival in love. The whole of the townsfolk interceded for him, but the father, lest he should be moved from his de- GALWAY 207 termination, executed him with his own hands, hanging him out of a window, still pointed out in Lumbard Street, other- wise known as Dead-man's Lane. This is to be found on the north side of St. Nicholas' Church. There is a skull and cross-bones and an inscription to mark it. In the same street are some interesting old houses. Galway is admirably situated for commercial purposes, aud possesses all the natm-al advantages necessary for development into a first-class port. However, very great expenditure would be necessary before large steamers could use the harbour. In 1845 exertions were made in expectation of the coming of a line of steam packets, and the huge hotel known as the Railway Hotel was built. The enterprise came to nothing, and for the last sixty years the population has steadily decreasd. There is good salmon-fishing free on Lough Corrib, but in the town all the water below the weir is preserved. Anglers who apply for a permit for trout-fishing are usually granted it, but pay about 15s. a day to fish for salmon. Salmon abound in the River Corrib, and may often be seen from the parapet of New Bridge lying in great numbers as close together as the fingers of the hand, waiting to ascend the weir. At the spawning season this is one of the sights of Galway. Galway presents a curious combination of dilapidation and decay, with signs of improvement and moderate prosperity. Some immense warehouses, comparatively modern, have been for several years unoccupied, and are slowly going to ruin, and in nearly every street imtenauted and roofless houses suggest the "impression of a city sacked and ruined." On many houses in the older and meaner parts of the town may be seen sculptured fa9ades and coats-of-arms, in curious contrast with the surrounding squalor. The most entire of these antique dwellings is that known as "Lynch's Castle," in the principal street ; it is really a very quaint and interesting building with fantastic carving, well-preserved, and rows of gargoyles. The walls of the town were removed, but some portions still remain, the Lyon Tower in Egliuton Street, and the gate- way at the Quay being specially worthy of notice. In the centre of the town is the spacious Eyre Square, with an enclosure laid out in walks, and planted with trees. A carved doorway, dated 1627, which once belonged to the house of a 208 GALWAY mercliant, has been placed here as one of the entrances. On one side the square is occupied by the Railway Hotel and the Railway terminus, and among other buildings surrounding it are the Royal Hotel, the County of Galway Club-house, and the Bank of Ireland. In the Franciscan Church, near New Bridge, which was built in the 18 th century on the site of the old monastic church, are curious monuments. Notice especially that of Sir P. French, and another figured with many saints. There are some remnants of elaborate carving. Near this there once stood a Dominican Friary. It is from the New Bridge that you obtain quite the pleasantest view in the town. Just beyond Lyuch's Castle in Shop Street is the Church of St. Nicholas, dating from 1320. The tower, partly rough-cast, has uncommon corners and a modern steeple disfigured by clocks. The ornaments above the south door are peculiar. The in- terior was once the stables for the chargers of the Parliament troops during the Civil "War. The chief features of interest are the old slabs in the south transept, and the tomb of the famous Lynch Fitz-Stephen. The font is old and good ; and in the north aisle is what is generally called "the Confessional," but ' ' nothing is definitely known of it, and there is reason to doubt that it was ever intended for such use." There are ten bells in the tower, one of these, the old clock-bell, dated 1590, is not now used. Of the remaining nine bells the two largest are cracked. The largest bell now in use, the sixth in order of ringing, dates from 1631, and is beautifully ornamented. University College is close to the town on the Oughterard Road. It is a fine grey limestone building standing in well- kept grounds. Museums are attached to the principal medical departments, and there is a large medical library. The belfry is a neat miniature of " Tom " Tower in Christ Church, Oxford, and unique in Ireland. The Diocesan College is built of the same stone, and can be seen on the way to Salthill. The Claddagh (Irish, Cladach, the sea-shore or strand) is the name given to that part of Galway adjoining the harbour and inliabited chiefly by fishermen. Formerly they were a distinct community, not intermarrying with the townfolk and governed by their own magistrate or mayor, called the "King of the Claddagh,'' but they are now under municipal rule. ARAN ISLES 209 The community had at one time many singular customs. The bride received as her dowry a boat, or share of a boat, according to the means of the parents. The marriage ring was an heii'loom passing from mother to daughter. It was often decorated with a heart supported by two hands. On certain days, regarded by them as unlucky, not even the presence in the bay of the most miraculous shoals of fish would tempt the fishermen to put to sea. Hardiman, in his History of Galicay, describes this strange community, who now however conform to the manners and customs of their neighbours. The small one-story houses are dotted about without any attempt at uniformity and present the general appearance of a bed of mushrooms. Salthill, about a mile and a half west of Galvvay, is much frequented iu summer on account of its sea-bathing. It is con- nected with Galway by tram-car, and attached to the small hotel is an extensive suite of public baths. There is a made esplanade of some two miles along the shore. The road through Salthill continues along the coast toward Spiddlc and Costelloe (see p. 218). Galway Bay is the finest inlet on the whole Irish coast. Its length between St. Brendan's Isle and the middle of North Sound is over 30 miles, and its -width at the mouth between Gorumna Island and Moher Cliffs 20 miles. Across its entrance are the throe isles of Aran, stretching from north-west to south- east. Dr. Hull refers to the occurrence here of " Archaean rocks," "the most ancient of known rock-groups." Of these "the most important tract is probably that which lies along the north shore of Galway Bay." The same geologist, speaking of the glacier movements in the ice age, shows that "there was a great movement of the ice out of Galway Bay. We have here got into the great ice-stream, which was continued in a south- westerly direction along the southern shores of Galway Bay." The Aran Isles {Steamers from Galway several times a week, some of the ruins are hard to find, see pink pnges) lie in a line across the mouth of Galway Bay, about 28 miles from Galway. This excursion is one of uncommon pleasure for the ordinary tourist ; for those Britons who take an intelligent 14 210 GALWAY interest in the history of their own country, and the records of the earliest pioneers of the Christian religion these "islands of the saints " have a special fascination. As the total length of the three islands together amounts to 14| miles, and this ground is more densely covered with ancient remains than any space in Ireland of the same extent, it is clear that there is plenty to see. We here only give a few notes upon the most important features of the islands. The longest island, Aranmore ' or North Island, is 9 miles long and lies north-west of the others : its history is practically that of the group. The steamer puts in at Kilronan {Hotel : O'Flaherty's), the chief village. When the mist of the past begins to lift, the earliest inhabitants that can be descried are the Firbolgs, and when St. Enda appears, Corbanus is the island king over a colony of pagans who seem to have come from Corcomroe, near Ballyvaughan. The North Island, at least, had been strongly fortified centuries before this, if we may trust our best archi-eologists. Enda, or Eany, the son of Conall Deary, was brother-in-law of Aengus, King of Cashel. Originally an abbot in Italy, he came here about the time of St. Patrick's death (470), accepting from Aengus his gift of the North Island, and founded one of the most important of the western seats of Christianity. The geologist will note here the last westward records of the great ice- sheet that seems to have descended hither from the central plain, deflected southwards from the mountains of Connemara along the northern coast of the bay " to such an extent that it extended aU over the Ai-an Islands, where Mr. Kinahan has observed striae pointing about north 25 east " (Hull). The anti- quarian will find here "a typical collection of nearly all of the more remark- able structures of pre-Nonnan times," from cromlechs and " beehive " cells to "churches with chancels." The uncommon characteristics of the natives mark them out as of a special type, hardly less peculiar to the soil than the colony which Scottish tourists find in St. Kilda. Their home-spun dress, cow-hide sandals called " pam- pooties," and relics of ancient customs win attract notice. "We might be disposed," says Dr. Beddoe, " trusting to Irish traditions respecting the islands, to accept these people as representatives of the Firbolgs, had not Cromwell, that upsettor of all tilings Hibernian, left in Aranmore a small English garrison who subsequently apostatised to Catholicism, intermarried with the natives, and so vitiated the Firbolgian pedigree." Dr. Petrie de- scribes them as of a generally high moral character. From the Steamer Pier we turn left along the bay to Killrany, where of several churches only two now remain, with the lower part only of the Round Tower. Four churches and the upper part of the Tower were destroyed by Gromwellian soldiers to build up the adjoining Arkin Castle. " Enda's Chapel " remains, but his tomb, as his great church, have gone. Here was the ARAN ISLES 211 founder's chief settlement, and hither resorted Kieran of Clon- macnois, and Brendan of Smerwick before he left to cross the howling seas and sight the "spray-swept Hebrides." The hops found growing here may be the last survivors of the monastery garden. On the ridge (south-east) is the "unique" oratory of St. Benan ; and south-west on the coast is the very remarkable Black Fort, unfortunately fast disappearing. About a mile along the western (main) road out of Kilronan is the well-preserved Church of Kieran, who spent several years with Enda. A little beyond (south-west) is Dun Oghil, which is considered to have been "once a finer example than Dun Aengus" of the early fort. It is at the eastern extremity of the central prehistoric village, Baile luc Scan, a collection of ancient "beehive" cells, huts and forts. About 2 miles farther along the road is Kilmurvey. Near this (south-west) is MacDuach's Chapel, named after the saint who founded the church and tower near Gort in the 7th century. On the sea clitf, ^ mile from the chapel, is the celebrated DiJK Aengijs, nearly 300 feet above the sea, "the central point of interest . . . and one of the finest prehistoric forts of Western Europe." These duns or forts, writes Miss Stokes, are associated with the adventures of Aengus, Conor, and "heroes of the Firbolg race. They may have been in existence two centuries or more before the introduction of Christianity." They were built without mortar ; and the same writer concludes that the ujiright jointings in the walls point to "the work having been portioned out in lots to the labourers." The dun here may once have had four ramparts, of which three are now standing ; and in the outer labyrinth of stones — which rival even those on the summits of Scafell or Glyder-Fach — we have a cheval defrise capable of breaking up most besieging lines. In the doorway still remaining, with horizontal lintel and inclined sides, we see the original type afterwards copied by the monks ; and inside one wall is the interior passage so often found in these early forts {e.g. Dunbeg, Fahan). About one mile north-west of this is another fine fort called Dun Onaght ; and near it is Clochan na Carraige, the most perfect of the "beehive" cells, " formed in a manner universally adopted by early races in all periods of the history of man and in various portions of the globe, where stone was available, before the knowledge of the principle of the arch had reached them. The 212 GALWAY dome is formed by the projection of one stone beyond another till the walls meet in one flag at the apex " [M. Stokes). The Church of St. Brecan is only ^ mile to the north and is worth a visit. This, which without reason is called the "Seven Churches," was probably founded by Brecan, the 6th-century bishop who founded Ardbrecan (Meath) and several churches in County Clare. It contains a very early window in the north wall ; and once had a monastery on the north side. Observe the in- scription, "vii ro-ma-ni," on a stone to the south-west, which proves the extensive reputation of the monastery ; the broken headstone of St. Brecan's grave ; and, higher up, tho broken but splendidly carved cross. The "Saint's Bed " is pointed out. INISHMAAN, or Middle Island, is divided by Gregory Sound, about li mile in width. Dun Conor, named after the brother of Aengus, is of a curious oval shape, and, though terribly " restored," is a fine fort. Tlie story of Mailly, the murderer, should be learnt from a native. TeampuU Murry i (St. Mary's Church) is of 16th-century date. The saint Kenerg, wliose " bed " is here, was the brother of the lady Cavanagh to whom the Kenanagh Church, with an uncommon west door, may be dedicated. On South Island, the most interesting of several early ruins, in St. Cavan's Church, named after the brother of Kevin of Glendalough, and the disciple of Enda. [The literatiu'e dealing with the islands is extensive. The general tourist will find an excellent and illustrated description in the R.S.A.I. Handbook, No. II., by T. J. Westropp (Hodges, Is.) For others. Lord Duniaven's "Notes" wiU prove exhaustive.] GALWAY TO THE BURREN OF CLARE, BALLYVAUGHAN, LISDOONVARNA, THE CLIFFS OF MOHER AND KILKEE. Steamer three times a week to Ballyvaughan. Eailway — The West Clara Railway, reached from Galvvay by Eunis Junction. The Burren of Claxe, to the north of Lisdoonvarna, is formed chiefly of terraced hills, rising gradually to a height of from 800 to 1000 feet. They are composed entirely of bare limestone rock of pale gray colour — the carboniferous limestone of geologists. The beds rise very gently from beneath the coal-measure shales, and end in steep slopes looking down upon Galway Bay. Black- head forms one of the principal of these slopes. Deep valleys 1 The absonce of this anions the naiuos of patron saints, or upon the crosses and tombs of those early churches before the Norman Invasion, is remarkable. LISDOONVARNA 213 penetrate this high limestoue ground botli from Galway Bay on the north and from the low country on the east, towards which a line of lofty cliffs looks down, like those on the north, and extends in a wavy line fi-om near Kinvarra to near Corrofin. Glen Columhkill is the most remarkable of the valleys on the east of the Burren high land. What makes those valleys so remarkable is the bareness of the limestone rocks which surround •them. They look like vast artificial amphitheatres rising in regular steps and terraces of stone, receding here and advancing there, till the long parallel lines of stratification fade away in the blue haze of the distance. The isolated hills are like great forti- fications surrounded by regular bastions and walls rising one above another, till each terminates in a small citadel crown- ing the summit of the hill. The light gray of the nearer hills fades into jiurple in the distance, and, should a stray sunbeam strike through the clouds on some remoter j'romoutory, the part lit gleams out like a marble building, with all the effect of some magnificent architecture. The numerous rock fissures are lined with the most splendid ferns and other plants — the delicate maidenhair fern being found here as well as on the Aran Islands, together with several species of plants very rarely to be met with in other parts of the British Islands. From Ballyvaughax {Hotels: (C.) Kerin's ; Mrs. Davis'), 7 miles eastward along the Bay, is Corcomroe Abbey, an offshoot of the great monastery of Furness in Lancashire. It was founded about 1182 by a king of Limerick, Donaldmore O'Brien, and dedicated to St. Mary.^ Though rude in structure as seen to- day, ancient accounts tell of "the purple marble and polished stones, starry ornaments and whitewashed walls of the Abbey." The cloister-square and chui-ch still remain. In the chancel of the church there are the altar, the sedilia, and the most inter- esting object of the building — the large figure of King Conor Roe O'Brien (1267), grandson of the founder, which gives a sculp- tured record of the royal Irish dress of the 13th century. A public car from Lisdoonvarna meets the steamer at Bally- vaughan. Lisdoonvama(Hb C'~' \ ■^najter,-^^ wi}^ ' "Sii U (i ■^.ie«flr^£N For the most pleasant cuio for GOUT, RHEUMATISM, SCIATICA, NEURITIS, etc., you cannot do better than try the Buxton Waters and Treatments. Buxton has the most perfect Bathing Establishment in Britain. Radio- Active Waters and all the Continental "cures" available. The highest town in Britain, its pure mountain air is in itself a natural treatment, and no "after cure" is necessary. The Buxton Cure, generally speaking, allows the patient to participate in the Excursions and Amusements of which there are ample to warrant any one visiting Buxton for purely pleasure purposes. The following are a few examples of the good things obtainable at Buxton : — Coaching and Motoring through the lovely Peak District, Golf, Angling, Tennis, Croquet, Bowls, Gardens, Orchestral Concerts thrice daily, Illuminated Fetes, Theatres, etc. FREE GUIDE TO BUXTON from J. M. SCOTT, Publicity Bureau, BUXTON. BUXTON HYDRO HOTEL, BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. (Official Hotel to R.A.C., A. A. & M.U., and A.C.U.) 260 ROOMS. OVERLOOKING GARDENS. All Hydropathic and Electric Baths. RADIUM "Water Treatment for Diabetes, etc. DIETETIC CLINIC (as at Lausanne, Baden-Baden, etc.). Amusements every evening. ORCHESTRA. Garage Adjoining. Telegrams -" Comfortable." Telephones— No8. 211 and 212. G. W. BOSWORTH, Manager. 8 BUXTON-CARBIS BAY-CARNOUSTIE-(CHANNEL IS. secp'p. 18,21, . Zbc 1kim, The biscuit of real food value : M^VITIE & PRICE'S DIGESTIVE. (The Premier Biscuit of Britain.) May be obtained from ALL GROCERS, CONFECTIONERS AND STORES. EDIXBURriH KDZELL. 15 The Caledonian Railway Company's PRINCES STREET STATION HOTEL EDINBURGH. 300 ROOMS. 70 BATH ROOMS. Tliis Hotel is the most modern in Scotland, is situated at the West end of Princes Street, and commands magnificent views of the Castle and Gardens. TERMS VERY MODERATE. Telegraphic Address : " LUXURY, EDINBURGH." A. MORRIS, Manaflrer. PKSMOTdR SERVICES MOTOR 'BUSES leave Edinlmrgh (Waverley Steps) tVeijUeutly for Libertoii, Burdieliouse, Straiten, Loanhead, Bilstoii, Koslin, Glencorse, Penicuik, Gilmerton, Little France, Eskhank, Dalkeith, Newtontcrangp, Gorebridge, Bonnyrigg, Rosewell (for Hawthornden), Corstorjihine, Newbridge, Broxburn, Uphall, East and Mid Calder, and Pumpherston. During the Season MOTOR CHAR-A-BANCS leave the Mound (Princes Street) for IjlackhalJ, iiarnton, and Forth Bridge. Also Circular Tours to Haddington, Dunbar, and North Berwick ; South Quecnsferry, Hopetoun, and Linlithgow; Carlops, and Pentlands, via Roslin, Penicuik, Braid Hills, and Moniingside ; Stow, Galashiels, Alibolsford, ^lelrose, Dryburgh, and Lauder. Seats booked for Circular Tours at the Company's Office or at M'Kinlay Bros. ('Phone 3481Y), 10a South St. Andrew St., Edinburgh. Time and Fare Bills free on application lo Company's Conductors, or Company's Offices, 29 Fountainbridge, Edinburgh. THE SCOTTISH MOTOR TRACTION COMPANY, LIMITED. 'rele^nuns : •■Thutk.n." '['.■Icpliniies : 7315 G 7. W. J. THOMSON, Cnernl Manager. LARGE GARAGE FOR PRIVATE CARS. OPEN DAV AND NIGHT. EDZELL. THE GLENESK HOTEL. T^HE Hotel is in immediate proximity to tlie Railway Station, ami Exerllent Golfing -*- is to be had over the Edzell Golf Club's celebrated 18-Hole Golf Course. COMMODIOUS GARAGE. Good Centre for Fishing, Driving, and Coaching Tours. For Terms, apply The MANAGERESS. THE GLENESK HOTEL COMPANY, LIMITED, PROPRIETORS. 16 EXETER FOLKESTONE FORRES. EXETER. NEW LONDON^ HOTEL. Visited by Queen Victoria, King Edward VII., and the present King and Queen. rrniS FIEST-CLASS HOTEL is near the Cathedral and Stations, and adjoining Northernhay Park. Charming Old English Courtyard (with Fernery and Fountain in centre and lighted by Electricity) as Lounge. TABLE D'HOTE (EXCELLENT CUISINE). NIGHT PORTER. Splendid New Oarage with ioclc-up Private Boxes. Hotel Omxibi-.ses meet Trains. STABLliXG. Officially appointed by the " Royal Automobile Club," "Automobile Association," and the Motor Union. Telephone 1-16. Telegrams — "Pople, Ezeter." FOLKESTONE. Bath Hotel, CLIFTON CRESCEINT, THE LEAS. Old-Established First-CIass Private Hotel. South As[)ec't. Sea Views. Sheltered. Perfect Sanitation. Inchisive Terms. Excellent Cuisine. Separate Tables. Under the personal manage- ment of the Proprietress, Miss GRIFFITHS, late o/Yhe York House Hotel, Bath. Telegrams: " Bath Hotel, Folkestone." Telephone 117. FORRES. Cluny Hill Hydropathic. TflNEST Climate in Great Britain. Average Yearly Rainfall, 22 inches. Five Miles of Walks in Pine Woods. Tennis, Bovi'lins;, and Croquet Greens. Garage with Pit. First-Class 18-Hole Golf Course (with Professional) adjoining grounds. Turkish and Russian Baths. Massage. Recreation and Billiard Rooms. Lounge. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Tariff. H. B. HIGGINS, Manager. FOWEY — GLASGOW. 17 FOWEY (CORNWALI.X ST. CATHERINE'S HOUSE (PRIVATE HOTEL). Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Private Sitting Rooms. Thirty Beilrooms. Unrivalled Situation. Facing Harbour and Channel. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AS A HEALTH RESORT. GOLF LINKS WITHIN 10 MINUTES' WALK. MOTOR CAR KEPT. TERMS MODERATE. Teleplione No. 4. Telegrams: " Buokenshaw, Fowev. :\Ius. BROKENSHAW, Proprietress. A GREAT RAILWAY AND THE COUNTRY IT TRAVERSES. THE GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY. By GOKDON IHJ^tE. In the -'PEEPS AT GREAT RAILWAYS" Series. Containing 8 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour and numerous small Black -and-Wliite Sketches in tlie Text. Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, with Picture in Colour on the Cover. PkICE Is. 6d. NET. {L'l/ Post Is. lOd.) Tells in brief the story of one of our most famous Railways, its efl'ect on the development of the country it serves, and also somitliing of the scenery and towns througli which it runs. Published by A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5 & C SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. A nd obtainable thrnuyh any Bookseller. GLASGOW. CRANSTON'S WAVERLEY TEMPERANCE HOTEL 172 SAUCHIEHALL STREET. CAUTION. — Please see that you are taken to Cranston's Waverley, Sauchiehall Street. Telegraphic Address : Waverley Hotel. Telephones : 128 Douglas and 1434 Douglas. Breakfast or Tea, 1/3, 1/6, 2/- ; Bedroom, with attendance inclusive, 3/-. Stockrooms just added, from 3/- per day. Passenger Elevator. Other Addresses : Edinburgh, Old Waverley, Princes Street ; Edinburgh, New Waverley, Waterloo Place. One of the most up-to-date, comfortable, and best situated Hotels in the City. Spacious Ladies' Drawing-room Elbctbic Light Thbooqhout. ■^9S^ ^,^.^^:£ Gt>J iO>^ 70 ROOMS. TUREE TELF.rHONES. Wires : " Hotel Balmoral." _ CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE. Bedroom, 3 Course Breakfast and Bath, ^/^ 18 GLASGOW GUERNSEY {foT SARK see p. 43). BLYTHSWOOD HOTEL (LICENSED) 320 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW. The Home of Simplicity, Refinement, and Comfort for the Traveller. Nearest Hotel in the City for the Caledonian and L. & N.W. Railway Terminus. Convenient to all Stean\ers. Double Windows to exclude Noise. Hot and Cold Water in Bedrooms. Elevator. Electric Light. Recently Enlarged, Refurnished k Redecorated. BEDROOM, BREAKFAST and BATH, Srom 5s. Telegrams: " Blvthswood Hotel. " G. EGLINTON ADAMS, Proprietor. GLASGCW. JenninC'S BUCHANAN ST. STATION HOTEL. Opposite station. 23 COWCADDENS STREET. Please note iiuiuber. Bed, Breakfast, and Attendance from is. 6d. Terms per day, 7s. 6d. Per week. £2 : 2s. Fully licensed. A DELIGHTFUL SOUVENIR OF "BONNIE SCOTLAND." THE TROSSACHS. In Black'.s "Beautiful Britain" Series. Containiug 12 Full-Page Illustratious in Colour. Large .Square Demy 8vo ; Cloth, with Picture in Colour ou the Cover. Price Is. 6d. net. {By Post, Is. lOd.) Published bv A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5. & 6 Soho Square, London, W, And obtainable throu' ^jVi;/ H THOMPSON'S CORN PLASTER JOY. tlie Facp, Hands, and Anns wiUi «l ( ■'tf|>ior' M. F. T. IDEAL SKIN FOOD 8,1 {lilt's^ — Ivids Crippling Conis, Bunions COMPLEXION WAX. l\ 'l^W and Swollen Joints — Safely, 'i.-s. This Kv"ry-\\<'alli.T Treasure M TjC ;»^ Speedily. Yes, this is the famous corrects Extremes ol Siui, Wind, /fl e ft " Comfort- for- the - Feet " you Fog, Frost, etc. Retines away -/ '%, hear of! Only ia M.F.T. En- Wrinkles and other Traces of ">iii^&^ velope. Work, Worry, and Years. Vg Large Sheet, 1/2 post free. 2/- and 4/6 post free. JB Only from— M. F. THOMPSON, 4 Chemist, 17 Gordon St., Glasgow. HARROGATE. THE GRANBY HOTEL. Facing the Southern Stray of 200 acres, this high-class Hotel is situated in the healthiest and most bracing part of Harrogate, away from the business centre, where rest and quiet is assured. All the latest improvements have been introduced to pro- vide for the comfort of the guests, together with provision for the convenience of invalids for deriving all the benefits provided by the Corporation for the "cure" for which Harrogate stands unrivalled. Nearest Hotel to the Harrogate Golf Links. Lawn-Tennis Grounds adjoining the Hotel. Accommodation for motors and carriages. Lift to all floors. Electric Light thi-ougliout. For Terms apply to THE MANAGER. HELENSBURGH, N.B. " (On Firth of Clyde, 40 minutes' Rail from Glasgow.) Tourists should try the Clyde instead of the Rhine. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL. FINEST Position on Esplanade. Three minutes from Station. Most central for Excursions by Rail or Steamers. Coffee, Drawing, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Motor Garage with Inspection Pit. Oil supplied and Repairs done. Boarding Terms. Charges Strictly Moderate. J. R. EGGER, Proprietor. (Siviss-B)-itish.) "The lilttle Switzerland of the Clyde." THE ISLE OF ARRAN. I5v Rev. CllAULES A. HALL. In Black's "Beautiful Britain" Series. Containing 12 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour. Large Square Demy Svo, Cloth. With Picture in Colour on the Cover. Price Is. 6d. net. (By Post Is. lOd.) The book affords a charming epitome— just enough to whet the appetite of the holiday-maker, and open his eyes to the wonders, delights, and memories that await hi.s exploitations during a limited sojourn on the island. — Scottish Field. Published by A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W. And obtainable of all Booksellers. 20 hunter's quay — ilfracombe (see also p. 39). HUNTER'.S QUAY. ROYAL MARINE HOTEL, FIRTH OF CLYDE. Headquarters of the Royal Clyde Yacht Club. A FIRST.CL.ASS FAMILY HOTEL. WITHIN about one liour'.s journey from Glasgow by Rail and Steamer, via Caledonian, North British, or Glasgow and South- Western Railway Coast Routes. There is a good service of Steamers to Hunter's Quay during the season, and to Kirn, three-quarters of a mile from Hotel, all tlie year round. HOT and COLD, FRESH and SEA WATER BATHS, SPRAYS, DOUCHE, Ac. Golf, Bowling, Tennis, Garage. Telegraph and Post Office within the Grounds. Telegraphic Address— Telephone— "Hotel, Hunter's Quay." No. 25, KIRN. ROBERT STUART, Manager. ILFEACOMBE. LEWIS' CRESCENT BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT. A FIRST-CLASS PENSION in unrivalled position. 3 minutes from Sea and Promenade. Large Public Rooms, Balconies, and Lounges. 54 well- appointed Bedrooms. Liberal Table. Comfortable and Homelike. Moderate and Inclusive Terms. Highly recomnieuded. Ap2:)ly Pmjjrietors for Tar it]'. Telegrams— "Crescent Hotel." Telephone— No. 72. ILFRACOMBE. BELGRAVE HOTEL. (Fully Licensed.) rilHIS Highly Recommended Hotel is centrally situated on sea-level. -*- Spacious, well-appointed rooms fitted with every nioder neonvenience, including Elect rii- Light throughout. TABLE D'HOTE (Separate Tables). TERMS MODERATE. Illustrated Tariff on application to Proprietress. ILPRACOMBE ISLE OF WIGHT JERSEY. 21 ILFRACOMBE. Summer and Winter Resort. Close to the Beaches, Parade, etc. Com- mandini: full view of the Sea. SiMcious I'ublic Rooms, Loun^'i's, rtc. Separate Tables. ^ Smoke Rooms. 120 Bedrooms. Hot & Cold Shower Baths. Dark Room for Photos, Electric Light throughout Electric Passenger Lift. Garage with Pit MODERATE TARIFF. TOURING CARS ON HIRE. ILFRACOMBE. THE GROSVENOR. IlIRST-CLASS Boarding Establishment on level ground. Two minutes from Sea, Capstone Parade, Bathing Coves, Town, and Post Office. Spacious Dining and Drawing Rooms, with Large Balconies, also Lounge and Smoking Room. Table d'H6te, 7 p.m. Excellent Cuisine. Separate Tables. Recommended. Moderate. Illustrated Tariff gratis. Telephone 63. Garage M.A.C. Mrs. PICKETT, Proprietress. High-Class Bijou Hotel. French Cuisine. Electric Cars transferred to Island, via slung. Sundays also. Illustrated YARMOUTH, I.W.-PIER HOTEL ■ Lit,dit. Yachting, Bathing, &c. Garage. Motor Cai Garage. Lymington and Yarmoutli, without bein Tariff on application. la coanection with "ROYAL HOTEL," VENTNOR JERSEY. STAR HOTEL. Facing the Harbour. Family and Commercial. Established over 70 Years. THE best known Hotel for Tourists in the Channel Islands. The Tariff, 4:)S. (id. or 52s. 6d. per week (according to room), includes Bed, Breakfast, Luncheon, Dinner, Attendance, and Lights. No extras. Fishing and Sailing parties arranged. Four- in-Hand Excursion Cars leave the Hotel twice daily for places of interest. Centrally situated. Close to Post Oltice and principal business establishinAits. Evei-y facility for commercial gentlemen. Good stock rooms. Illustrated booklet with full jiarticulars and some interesting information about Jersey post free. Omnibus meets all boats. A. RAVNOR SMITH, Proprietor. A Beautiful Souvenir of these Charming Islands. THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. In Black's " JSkautifi'i, iiKiiAiN" Series. Containin.i; I'J riill-page Illustrations in Colour. Large Square IJemy 8vo, Cloth, with I'ictiuc in Colnur on the Cover. Price Is. 6d. net. (By Post Is. lOd.) Published by A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5, & Suho Squ.\re, London, W. And obtainable of all Bouksellers. 22 JERSEY KINGUSSIE KYLES OF BUTE. By Royal Warrant of Appointment to Her Majesty (Jueen Mary, Her Majesty Queen Alexandra and H.Ii.H. the Princess Christian. de FAYE'S JERSEY EAU DE COLOGNE. Original cases, 5/6, 10/6, and 21/-, duty and post free. F. ardTFAYE, David Place, Bath Street, JERSEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS. The Sole distributing Wholesale Agents are : Messrs. S. Maw, Son & Sons, 7 to 12 Aldersgate Street, London, E.C., who will supply your Chemist immediately from stock. "IN ROMANTIC BADBNOCH." KINGUSSIE. DUKE OF GORDON HOTEL. SITUATED among the Finest Scenery of the Cairngorm Mountains. Entirely rebuilt and renovated. Three minutes' walk from Kingussie Station, at which all trains stop. Hotel Porter attends all trains. Parties boarded per week or month. Inclusive terms on application. LARGE GARAGE. Oils and Petrol kept. LAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET GREEN IN HOTEL GROUNDS. BOWLING GREEN. GOLF GOURSE (18 holes) 10 minutes' walk. FISHING, ETC. Telkqrams— MR. AND MRS. W. WOLFENUEN, " Wolfenden, Kingiissie." Proprietors and Managers. - KYIiES OF BUTE. AT AUCHENLOCHAN PIER, TiGHNABRUAICH. Greatly Enlarged. Pleasant Residence for Tourists and Families. GOLF. BILLIARDS. LAWN TENNIS. CARRIAGE HIRING. Telegraphic Address : " Royal, Tk^hnaukl akjii. ' Telephone 5. R. DUNCAN, Proprietor. LANGHOLM — LARNE LADNCESTON LEAMINGTON. 23 LANGHOLM, DUMFRIESSHIRE. 20 Miles by Rail and Road from Carlisle. ESKDALE Temperance HOTEL. ANGLING AND SUMMER QUARTERS. SALMON, SEA TROUT, HERLINC. GOLFING FREE TO HOTEL VISITORS. 20 Drives midst lovely Mountain Scenery. Send for Tariff and Coach GuUk to — WM. DOUGLAS, B.G., Proprietor. LARNE HARBOUR (COUNTY ANTRIM). OLDERFLEET (station) HOTEL. THIS First-Class Hotel, with charming situation facing the sea, has just been re- decorated and refurnished, and many improvements have been made for Visitors' comfort, including a handsome Lounge. One minute's walk from Stranraer Mall Steamers and Railway Station. Hot and Cold Sea- Water Batbs ia Hotel. Convenient to Golf Links. Garage witti Pit. HUGH GARRETT, Manager. LAUXCESTOX, XORTH CORXWALL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL. Within a few Seconds of the Fine Old Castle and Beautiful Church. Good Centre for Xortli Cornwall. Motor Garage. Inspection Pit. Petrol. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Tel. No. 13. BREXDON PARSOXS, Proprietor. REGENT HOTEL, ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA. PREMIER HOTEL OF THE MIDLANDS. LARGE GARAGE. Appointed by the leading Motor Clubs. Heated throughout during Winter Months. 24 LEAMINGTON LIMERICK. ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA. THE CLARENDON. HIGH-CLASS family Hotel, near Pump-room and Gardens, situated highest and best part of the Town. Close to trams. Away from noise. Electric Light. Lift. Garage. Stabling. Special winter terms. Perfect cooking. English Chef. Telephone 663. Apply MANAGERESS. LEAMINGTON SPA (Warwickshire). 9 Oldest Established House and Estate Agents, Valuers, Auctioneers, etc., in the town. OFFICES: 166 PARADE, LEAMINGTON SPA. Full particulars of Furnished £ Unfurnished Residences to Let and for Sale, on application. Telegraphic Address : "Lockes, Leamington Spa." Telephone: 110. LIMERICK. GliENTlffORTH HOTEL. rpHIS elegant and centrally established HOTEL has been prepared with the greatest ■'- care, and at considerable expense, for the accommodation of Ladies and Gentlemen visiting Limerick, and possesses the Freshness, Neatness, and General Comfort which distinguish the best English and Continental establishments. The Glentworth is the leading HOTEL in the city, and is noted for its moderate Terms, First-class Cuisine, and Perfect Sanitation. Omnibus and Staff meet all Trains and Steamers. Cook's Coupons accepted. KENNA BROS., Proprietors. LIMERICK. ROYAL GEORGE HOTEL. "PIRST-CLASS Family and Commercial. Most Central. Electric Light througlioiit. Bedrooms unsurpassed. Comfort. Clean- liness. Moderate Charges. A new wing added, which includes 23 Bedrooms, splendid Banqueting Room, and Stock Rooms. Sanitary arrangements perfect. Cook's Coupons accepted. Splendid Billiard Room. Hot and Cold Baths. P. HARTIGAN, Proprietor. LIMERICK LIVERPOOIj. 25 LIMERICK. CRUISE'S ROYAL HOTEL FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Headquarters Irish Automobile, A. A., and Motor Union Clubs, American A. A. New Lounge. Ballroom capable of accomniodatini^ over 300 persons just added. Ladies' Drawing -Hooni, Billiard Room, Smoking Room, Excellent Cuisine, a Home from Home, Electric Light throughout. Free Garage. Hot, Cold, and Shower Baths. Brochure and Tariff to be had on application to JAMES FLYNN, Managing Proprietor. LIVERPOOL. Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway. Exchange Station Hotel. (Under the Management of the Company.) THE nearest First-Class Hotel to the Landing Stage. The Exchange Station is the terminus for the principal Express Trains from Scotland. The Hotel is noted for the excellence of its cooking and comfortable accommodation. Telegrams— " STATiot! Hotel, Liverpool." G. O'B. HAMILTON, Telephone— 210i Central. Manager. LIVERPOOL. "THE SHAFTESBURY." . ^^^ MOUNT PLEASANT. r^' p P (?^ A HIGH -CLASS TEMPERANCE HOUSE. M£'^^-^- -' ■^ Centrally situated. Quiet and homelike. „fi«, 9 ff, 6 fr fi^ ^ About four minutes' walk from Lime Street and hs=sl!-,i!J:3_ Central Stations, and adjoining Roscoe Gardens. Mount Pleasant Cars from Pier Head and Castle Street (near Town Hall and Kxchaiii/)' Station) stop at door of Hotel. Night Porter. Cftb Fare from any Station, Is. Good Stock Ro(jms. Telegrams: " Shaftesbury Hotel, LlverpooL " Telephone: 3882 Royal. ' LIVERPOOL. ~~ LAURENCE'S COMMERCIAL & FAMILY TEMPERANCE HOTEL, CLAYTON SQUARE ( Within Three Minutes' Walk of Lime Street and Central Stations, and the Chief Objects of Interest in the Town). CONTAINS upwards of One Hundred Rooms, including Coffee Room, Private Sitting Rooms, Billiard and Smoke Rooms, Large and Well - Lighted Stock Rooms. HEADQUARTERS CYCLISTS' TOURING CLUB. Telephone— Royai, No. 3729 26 LIZARD LLANEERIS— LLANDUDNO. LIZARD, CORNWALL. HOUSEIi BAY HOTEL. T^HIS First-Class Hotel commands Magnificent Views of the famous -*- Lizard Head, and is the only Hotel situated close to the Sea and beautiful Housel Bay Bathing Beach, Golf, Bathing, Boating, Fishing, Billiards. Motor Car service to and from Helston Station (G.W.R.). ELECTRIC LIGHT. A BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED FURNISHED BUNGALOW TO LET. MOTOR OARAGE ISTITH PIT. Letters and Telegrams to Manager, Hmtsel Bay Hotel, Lizard, R.S.O, LIZARD POINT, CORNWALL. THE LIZARD (HILL'S) HOTEL. fpHE Oldest Established and most Central Family Hotel in the District. Nearest to -•- Kynance Cove, Golf Links, and other places of interest. Motor Garage. Head- quarters of A. A. Additional Bathroom. Motor Car Service to & from Helston Station (G.W.R.). Special Winter Tariff. Own Dairy. Noted for Clotted Cream. Al.so Furnished Residence to Let. Beautifully situated and with every comfort. Apply Proprietor. INDISPENSABLE TO MOTORISTS IN THIS DISTRICT. THE MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND. SOUTHERN SECTION (South of the Thames). Large croum 8vo, containing 24/uU-i>at;e Jllustrations in Colour, and 45 Skflch Maps in the Text. Cloth, price 5/- net (by post, 5/4). Leather, jirice 7/6 net (by post, 7/10). THE VOLOMES IN THIS SERIES ARE OBTAINABLE THROUGH ANY BOOKSELLER. Published by A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W. LLANBERIS. TO SNOWDON THB MONARCH MOUNTAIN OF WALES. ' 3570 feet above sea-level. Do nut fail toiiiaki- th.' ascent by the SNOWDON MOUNTAIN RACK RAILWAY. _^ ^ ^. A most marvellous journey and magnilicent scenery. i>tay at tbe ROYAL VICTORIA K-:; or PADARN VILLA HOTELS, Situated in their own Extensive Grounds in the Heart of Snowdonia. BOATING. FISHING. GARAGE. OWN FARM, &c. Mr. MATTHEW RYAN, AUCTIONEER, ESTATE AGENT. (17 years with the late Mr. Geo. F. FeJton, Auctioneer, n-hose business u-as established in Llandudno in 1850.) Furnished Houses and Apartments Recommended. For the past 27 years he has been employed on Valuations at leading County Houses and Hotels throughout North Wales and elsewhere ; also has arranged some of the best Sales. Highest references given. Telephone 173. AugUSta Street, LLANDUDNO. LLANDRINDOD WELLS LLANDUDNO — LLANGOLLEN. 27 LLANDRINDOD WELLS. ROCK PARK HOTEL AND SPA. Adjoins Strongest Mineral Springs, Baths, and Golf Links. Near the New Electro-Hydropathic Baths. The only Hotel situated in own grounds (50 acres), TENNIS AND CROQUET LAWNS. Seven miles excellent Trout Fishing reserved and free for Hotel visitors. The only private fishing in the neighbourhood. Pishing commences in the Grounds. SUPPLIES FROM OWN FARM AND GARDENS. Posting. Good Selection Carriages. Motor Accommodation. Separate Tables. Excellent Cuisine. Special attention given to diet. Sanitation Perfect. South and South- West Aspect. MODERATE TARIFF. Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains. Telegrams: "ROCK." Telephone : P.O. No. 2. Tariff from R. P. CULLEY & CO., LTD., Proprietors. LLANDUDNO, NOKTH WALEs! IMPERIAL HOTEL. Centrally situated on Promenade. Extensive Sea Frontage. The Newr Tea Lounge, Smoking Balcony, also Ladies' Lounge, face the Sea. 140 WELL-APPOINTED SITTING- AND BED-ROOMS (The greater number of which have Sea and Mountain Views). Passenger and Luggage Lifts. Central for Golf Links, G.P.O., Pier, and Station. Electric Light. Night Porter. Motor Garage (20 Cars) with Turn-table attached to Hotel. Private Omnibus. For Illustrated Tariff and other 'particvlars, apply to— Nat. Tel. No. 6 (2 lines). S. CHANTREY, Proprietor. LLANGOLLEN. THE HAND HOTEL. 'piIIS is one of the most convenient in this Lovely Vale, and second to none in North Wales for comfort, catering, and situation. Sixty Bedrooms. Large Private Sitting-Kooms. Electric Light throughout. Extensive Motor Garage for 30 Cars. Golf, JAMES S. SHAW, Proprietor. Telephone No. 7. Address — "Hand, Llangollen." BOOKS FOR SPORTSMEN. AN ANGLER'S SEASON. By \A'iLLiAji Earl Hodgsou. Containuig 12 pages of Illustrations froiu photographs. Large crown 8vo, c;loth. Price 3/6 net. (By Pust, 3/10.) COARSE FISHING. By H. T. SHERiNt:HA3i. Large crown 8vo, cloth. Containing 42 Illustrations in the text. Price 3/6 net. («!/ I'iM, 3/10.) THE BOOK OF THE DRY FLY. By Oeorge a. B. Dewar. With contributions by His Grace the Duke of Rutland and Mr. J. E. Booth. Containing 8 full-page Illustrations in colour, 7 representing the most typical Dry-Fly Streams of" England, and one a selection of natural Flies. \eiv Edithm, Large crown 8vo, cloth. Price 7/6 net. {By Po^t, 7/10.) dry-fly fishing in border WATERS. By F. Fernie. A.M.I.C.E. With an Intro- duction by .T. CuTHEERT Hadden. Large crown 8vo, cloth, illustrated. PricC 2/6 net. (By Post, 2/9.) HOW TO FISH. By William Earl Hodgson. Containing 8 full - page illustrations and 18 smaller En- gravings in the te.\t. Large crown 8vo, cloth. Price 3/6 net. (By Post, 3/n-) MINOR TACTICS OF THE CHALK STREAM: And Kindred Studies. By G. E. M. Skues (Seaforth and Soforth). tSucond Edition. Containing Frontispiece Plate of Fliea in coloured facsimile. Royal 8vo. cloth. Price 3/6 net. (By Post, 3/11.) THE PRACTICAL ANGLER: Or, The Art of Trout Fishing more Particularly Applied to Clear Water. By W. C. Stewart. J(l'w Edition, Containing an Introduction by William Earl Hod(;sok, and including coloured facsimiles of the Flies used by Mr. Stewart. Large crown Svo, cloth. Price 3/6 net. (Bi/ Post, 3/10.) SALMON FISHING. By William Earl Hodgson. Containing a fricsiinile in colours of a "Jlodel Set of Flies" for Scotland. Ireland, England, and Wales, and 10 Illustrations from photographs. Large crown 8vo, cloth, gilt top. Price 7/6 net. (By Post,": /U.) HOW TO DRESS SALMON FLIES. liy Dr. T. K. I'uvce-Tannatt. ContiininK 8 full -page Flates in lulour of Salmon - Flies arranged by the author, and 101 line drawings in the text. Large crown 8vo. cloth, gilt top. Price 7/6 net. (By Post, 7/11.) LIFE=HISTORY AND HABITS OF THE SALMON, SEAi=TROUT, TROUT, AND OTHER FRESH = WATER FISH. By P. I). Malloi H. Xtic Editiim. Containing 274 Illustrations fi'om photographs. Crown 4to, cloth. . ;-• .1 Price 10/6 net. (By Post, 11/-.) SEA FISHING. By C. O. MiNCHiN. With 32 Illustrations in the text, mostly from original sketches by J. A. MiNCHiif. Large crown Svo, cloth. Price 3/6 net. (By Post, 3/10.) TROUT FISHING. -A Study of Natural Phenomena. By William Earl Hodgson. Containing a facsimile in colours of a " Model Book of Flies " for stream and lake, arranged according to the month in which the lures are appropriate. Lai'ge crown Svo, cloth, gilt top. Price 7/6 net. (By Post, 7/11.) TROUT WATERS. — Management and Angling. By Wilson H. Armistead. Large crown Svo, cloth. . ,.<■ .1 Price 3/6 net. (/;.(/ Post, 3/10.) THE ART OF WORM=FISHING. A Practical Treatise on Clear = Water Worming. By Alexander Mackie, M.A., author of Ahrrdri-ii.^hire, Sature Enowledffe in Modern Poi'try, etc. Large crown Svo, cloth. Illus- trated with Diagrams. _^ . Price 1/6 net. (By Post, 1/9.) GROUSE AND GROUSE MOORS. By George -Malcolm and Captain Aymkr Maxwell. With 10 full-page Illustrations in colour by Charles Whymper, F.Z.S. Large crown Svo, cloth, gilt top. _. . ,^ Price 7/6 net. (By Post, 7/11.) PARTRIDGES AND PARTRIDGE MANORS. By Captain Avmer Ma.\well. With 16 full- page Illustrations in colour by Georgb Rankin. Large crown Svo, cloth, gilt top. Price 7/6 net. (By Post, 7/11.) PHEASANTS AND COjVElRT SHOOTING. liy Captain Ay.mkr Maxwell. Containing 16 full-page llhiatrations in colour by GKopiiE Rankin. Large crown Svo, cloth, gilt top. Price 7/6 net. (By Post, 7/11.) Published by A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, b, & 6 Sono Square, London, W. And obtainable through all Booksellers. LOCH AWE LOCH FYNE LOCHINVER. 29 LOCH AWE, ARGYLL. TAYCHREGGAN HOTEL. (UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.) T)EAUTIFULLY Situated on the Banks of Loch Awe in the Centre of the Best Fishing Ground. Salmon and Trout Fishing free. Terms strictly moderate. Route, rail to Loch Awe Station, thence steamer, an hour's sail. MACDONALD, Proprietor. Telegrams : Taychreggan, Kilchrenan. PORTSONACHAN, LOCH AWE. PORTSONACHAN HOTEL. 'T'HIS Hotel is charmingly situated and easy of access, — only an hour's sail -'■ from Lochawe Station (Callander and Oban Railway). Steamer connection with the principal trains during the season, ami ID miles I'roiu Dalmally Station, wlien' Hotfl -Motur-Car will mn-y visilms on riqucst by Ifttir or wire. Presbyterian and Episcopalian Churches within easy walking distance. Tennis court, beautiful drives, first-class boats, experienced boatmen. Salmon and Trout Fishing free. Charges moderate. THOMAS CAMERON, Proprietor. Originator of the Falls of Blairgour and Glen Nant Circular Tour from Oban. Telegraphic Address, "CAMEEON, PORTSONACHAN." LOCH FYNE, TARBERT. COLUMBA, THE HOTEL AT PIER. BILLIARD ROOM. Under New Management. J. E. BRIEN, Proprietor. LOCHINVER, SUTHERLANDSHIRE. CULAG HOTEL. Good TROUT and FEROX FISHING in Numerous Lochs, FREE. SALMON ANCLINC ON INVER AND KIRKAIC RIVERS. SEA TROUT. SEA FISHING EXCELLENT. ROUTE.— Rail to Lairg, thence daily Mall Motor or Hire ; or MacBrayne'a boat from Glasgow, Oban, Mallaig, etc. Hotel Motor can meet parties at Invershin on due notice being: given. Wires: "Culag, Lochinver." J. R. SKINNER, Proprietor. 30 LOCH LOMOND LOCHNESS LOCH RANNOCH. ARDLUI HOTEL. UNDEE NEW MANAGEMENT. HEAD OF LOCH LOMOND. Three minutes' waikjrom Steamboat Pier and Ardlui Station, West Highland Railway. THIS Hotel is beautifully situated amidst unrivalled scenery, and commands a magnificent view of the Locli. The Hotel has been remodelled and refurnished, and additions have been made ; the sanitary arrangements are new, and have been carried out on the most improved principles. Visitors staying at this house will find every comfort and attendance, with boats and fishing free. Delightful daily tours can be arranged to Loch Katrine, Loch Awe, Loch Tay, Loch Long, etc. Passengers travelling South by West Highland Railway change here for Loch Lomond and Loch Katrine. Parties boarded by week. Special week-end terms, except in August. Motor garage. Petrol. Telegrams " Russell, Aedlui. " A. RUSSELL, Proprietor. N.B. — Grand Circular Tour by Rail, Coach, and Steamer daily from Edinburgh and Glasgow. Further particulars can be obtained at Crianlarich and Ardlui Hotels, also from the North British and Caledonian Railway Companies' Tourist Guides. LOCHNESs! ■ DRUMNADROCHIT HOTEL. Under Ne-w Management. THIS First-class Hotel is beautifully situated near the shores of Lochness amidst the finest scenery in the Highlands, and enjoys the highest reputation for its - cuisine, comfort, and general arrangements. FREE SALMON AND TROUT FISHING ON LOCHNESS. Distance from Inverness, 14 Miles, and 1 Mile from Temple Pier, vsfhere MacBrayne's Steamers call daily. GOLF, TENNIS, AND MOTORING. TERMS MODERATE. KENNETH MACKAY, Ussee. LOCH RANNOCH, PERTHSHIRE. DUNALASTAIR HOTEL, KINLOCH-RANNOCH. THIS, the FiiiST Hotel in the district (both in date of establishment and in present standing), is beautifully situated amid splendid scenery at the foot of Loch Rannoch and on the banks of the Tummel. A centre for good coach drives in the midst of the most magnificent scenery in the Scottish Highlands. Visitors at this Hotel enjoy free fishing on Loch Rannoch (11 miles long) and the Longest Stretch of the River Tummel, with good boats and trustworthy boatmen. Salmon Fishing now added. Good Accommodation for Motors. Official Headquarters of all Automobile Clubs; also C.T.C. TERMS MODERATE. EPISCOPAL CHURCH CLOSE TO THE HOTEL. fi r /STRUAN. HIGHLAND RAILWAY, 13 MILES. dearest .^tationsy^^^^^^^^^^ y^r^^n^ HIGHLAND RAILWAY, 17 miles. Telegrams:—" Macmillan, Kinlochrannoch." D. C. MACMILLAN, Proprietor. 31 MOST CONVENIENT ! O NI H ^ NI SITUATION IN L W IN L^' >^ IN I The Westminster Palace Hotel. ?Ri< i*'^J&» Opposite the Abbey and Houses of Parliament. Commodious, Comfortable, First-Class Estab- lishment :: Spacious Reception Rooms. BEDROOMS from 3/6. INCLUSIVE RATE from l|/=. Special Week=End Terms. Send for Tariff Map of London. Especially suited to the Requirements of Tourists on account of the pleasant location and accessibility from every point of London. Restaurant No. 9 Tothill Street Telegrams : HOTELRY." London. Telephones: 6235 to 8-4870 6- 482 Vic. 32 LONDON. WEST Central Hotel FIRST-CLASS HOTEL FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. ACCOMMODATION FOR ABOUT 200 QUESTS. Pronounced by the Press the Best Temperance Hotel in the United Kingdom. Convenient for City or West-End — Business or Pleasure. Highly commended by the Rt. Hon. Sir T. Vezey Strong, the Rt. Hon. Sir T. P. Whittaker, M.P. ; Sir George Toulmin, M.P. ; Sir John M'Dougall; Very Rev. the Dean of Carli.sle ; Very Rev. the Dean of Hereford ; tlie Ven. Archdeacon of Durham ; J. S. Higham, Esq., M.P. ; Rev. Dr. Clitford ; Rev. Dr. Horton ; Rev. Dr. J. H. Jowett, and thousands of Guests from all parts of the World. Excellent Public Rooms. Electric Light. Passenger Lifts. Apartments, Service & Table d'Hote Breakfast, from Qj - Tariff oa application to FREDERIC SMITH & SONS, SOUTHAMPTON ROW, LONDON. C. C. & T. MOORE, AUCTIONEERS, : VALUERS & SURVEYORS, 1 ESTATE AGENTS. 7 LEADENHALL STREET, LONDON, and 33 MILE END ROAD, E. House Property Auctions \ke/d continuously for J (^ years] at the Mart on Thursdays. Special Attention to the Management of Houses and Estates, and letting City Offices and Business Property. 33 IffHITE HALIi RESIDENTIAL HOTELS (close to the British Museum) RUSSELL SQUARE, W.C. TERMS— From 8s. per 9, 10 & n BLOOMSBURY SQUARE aay or 2i Guineas per ' ^ week, includmg tsed- Telegraph: " TASTEFUL, London." room. Table d'hote -I- I 1 o 1 I iv/t Brcafcfast.Tea, Dinner, Telephone: 911 Museum. Lights, and Attendance. 8, 19 & 20 MONTAGUE STREET\ Telegraph: "RIPELY, London." Telephone: 5707 Central. 70, 71 & 72 GUILFORD STREET ■ Telegraph: "LUGGAGE, London." Telephone: 9909 Central. 4 & 5 MONTAGUE STREET Telegraph: " WHITENTIAL, London.' Telephone: 1 1442 Central. 15 & 16 BEDFORD PLACE - Telegraph: " QIJIVERED, London." Telephone: 8247 Central. 22 MONTAGUE STREET Telegraph: " SIGNOR, London." Telephone : 7117 Central. From 7s. per day Of 2 Guineas per w^cek. 13 WOBURN PLACE . ^ « ^ Telegraph: "QIJEENHOOD, London." Telephone: 12491 Central. 23 &T2 CORAM^STREET - - Telegraph: "WAYFARING, London." Telephone: i 3880 Central. From 6s. per day or 38s. 66. per week. 34 LOSSIEMOUTH — LOUGH SWILLY LYDFORD — LYNTON. LOSSIEMOUTH. STOTFIELD HOTEIi. A PERFECT GOLFER'S RETREAT. TWO SPLENDID GOLF COURSES (9 AND 18 HOLES). EXCELLENT BATHING BEACH. MODERATE TERMS. MAGNIFICENT NEW LOUNGE. ELECTRIC LIGHT. MOTOR CAR ACCOMMODATION. PETROL, Etc., Etx:. Tariff on amplication to WILLIAM CHRISTIE, Proprietor. LOUGH SWILLY, CO. DONEGAL. PORTSAIiON HOTEL. THIS excellent Hotel, which aflbrds flrst-class accommodation and every comfort to Families, Golfers, and other Tourists, is magnificently situated, with southern aspect, and commands sea and mountain views of matchless beauty. The Golf Links (18 holes) are most sporting and picturesque. Good lake and sea fishing. Boating, Bathing, Tennis, Croquet, Billiards, Garage, Dark Room for Photography, etc. Route via Strabane and Letterkenny, thence (during summer months) by Hotel Motor. Telegrams— " Hotel, Portsalon. " Illustrated Brochure on application to MANAGER. LYDFORD. IVlANOR Hotel. T71IVE minutes from South-Western and Great Western Stations. Sheltered situation on fringe of Dartmoor. 26 Bedrooms. Comfortably furnished. First-class Coffee and Drawing Rooms. The extensive private grounds of 50 acres include the beautiful wooded valley and gorge of River Lyd, and celebrated Lydford Waterfall. Tennis Lawn. Fishing, Rough Shooting. Hotel lighted throughout by Gas. Under personal management of Proprietress, Mrs. MATHEWS. Newly built Stable.s. Garage. Ex- cellent Cuisine. Terms moderate, on application. Telegrams : Holman. LYNTON. VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL. Largest and Principal. Situated in own Grounds. IJOO Ffit abozr and fm-ing Sea. Passenger Lift. Radiator Heating. Write for New Illuslrateil Tariff. Motor Garage. Resident J'roi)rieloi\ Telephone: No. 49. LYNTOX MALVERX. 35 LYNTON. IMPERIAL HOTEL. Beautifully Situated. Facing Sea. Luzurioos Lounge newly added. Electric Light ttirougbout. Moderate Terms. Motor Garage. Tdephoiie : No. 50 Lynton. Telegrams: "Imperial," Ltnto.v. MALVERN. THE ABBEY HOTEL. IN EXCELLENT SITUATION. MOST COMFORTABLE FAMILY HOTEL. New and Commodious Coffee and Smoking Rooms have been opened, and Suites of Rooms with Private Bath added. Fer/ed Sanitary Arrangements. Electric Light throughout. Telephone — No. 183. GARAGE. For Tariff apply Manager. MALVERN. THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL (PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY.) THE tirst time -vve visited ilalvoni, when shown into an upper chamber in the 'Foley Arms,' we were literally taken aback. We can hardly say more than that the prospect stnick us as far finer than from the terrace over the Thames at Richmond, etc., etc." — Extract from article in "Blackwood," August 1884- CofTee Room and Drawing Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table d'H6te, at Separate Table.s. Electric Light. Perfect Sanitary arrangements. Telephone — No. 197 Malvern. Miss YOUNGER, Froprietress. MALVERX. ~ Hardwicke Private Hotel. Enjoys the highest reputation. Bathrooms. Electric Light throughout the building. :: All Modern Conveniences. NEAREST HOTEL TO THE COLLEGE AND GOLF LINKS. Telegrams and Telephone— 246 Malvern. H. WILSOX, Proprietor. A Guide to the places of Historic Interest, Natural Beauty, or Literary Association. WHAT TO SEE IN ENGLAND. gorbon'home New Edition, revised and rearranged, containing ISS Page Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth. Price 3/6 net. (By Post 3/10.) Published by A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W. And obtainable through any Bookseller. 36 MARGATE MATLOCK MULLION. MARGATE. IBTHITE HART HOTEL. Established 150 Years. FACING Sea. Sixty Bedrooms. Magnificent New Coft'ee Room and Lounge, with every Comfort. Private Sitting Rooms all face the Sea. Famed for its perfect English food and cooking, and choice wines. Table d'Hote Lunch and Dinner all the year. Short distance from Golf Links. Stabling for Motors. Billiards. Special Terms during winter months and prolonged stay. City express, 5.10; Holborn Viaduct, 1 hour 30 minutes all year round. M. JESSOP. Telegraphic Address: WHITE HART. Telephone : No. 44. MATLOCK BATH • "The Switzerland of England." ROYAL HOTEL & BATHS THE LEADING HOTEL IN DERBYSHIRE. Electric Light, Lift, and every Modern Comfort Magnificent Private Grounds (20 Acres), Lawn Tennis Courts, Bowling Greens. Spacious Motor Garages. Excellent Cuisine. EVERY KIND OF BATH AVAILABLE ON THE CONTINENT CAN BE GIVEN UNDER THE MOST PERFECT CONDITIONS. Renowned for the famous " FANGO DI BATTAGLIA " Treatment, the only successful cure for Rheumatism, Gout, Sciatica, etc. The "ROYAL ORCHESTRA" plays during Afternoon Tea and Dinner. For Illustrated Tariflf apply to the Manager— GEO. STOREY. MULLION, CORNWALL. MULLION COVE HOTEL. "niIR.ST-CLASS Onicial quarters of Royal Automobile Club. Only Licen.sed Hotel on Mullion Coast. Magnificent Sea Views, including whole sweep of famous Mounts Bay. Splendid Bathing and Fishing. Fine 18-HoIe Golf Links. Spacious Lounge. Electric Light. Hook to Helston SUtion, G.W.R., thenc-e per G.W.R. Motor. MOTOR GARAGE IVITH PIT. I>«erjaHd rei^'srram.s to MANAGER, MULLION COVE HOTEL, MULLIOX, R.S.O. MULLION NAIRN NEWCASTLE, CO. DOWN. 37 MULLION, CORNWALL. POIiDHU HOTEL. FIRST Class, Largest in District, Lounge, Electric Liglit tlirougliout, close to Sea, commands magnificent views of Mounts Bay with its grand Cliff Scenery. Good Beach. Excellent Bathing. Lock-up Garage. Adjoining splendid Golf Links, 18 Holes. Tariff Moderate. Apply Manager. MULLION, SOUTH CORNWALL. POLURRIAN HOTEL. TJ^IRST CLASS. Stands in its own grounds of 4 acres ; replete ■^ in all modern appointments ; Large Lounge ; Electric Light ; Facing Sea; Good Boating, Fishing, and Bathing; Excellent Sands ; near Splendid Golf Links (18 holes); Visitors driven free to same at stated times ; Garage. Station, Helston. Terms moderate. Afply MANAGER. NAIRN. THE WAVERLEY HOTEL rjMiE .MUST COMFOUTABLE AND CENTRA I. HOTEL IN TOWN, btiiig nearest to ^ Stutioii and Post Office, and within a few minutes' walk of Oolf Courses and Beacli. Recommended as one of the Best Temperance Hotels In Scotland. Tliere are 2(3 Well-Liglited Bedrooms, Batlirooms, LarL;e Diuiui; Room, " Separate Tal)les," Drawing, Commercial and Smoke Rooms. Breakfast and Teas, Is. to 2s. Bedroom and Attendance from 2s. 6d. Weekly Terms £2 :2s. From 7s, per Day. Headquarters C.T.C. and A.C.U. Garage close to Hotel. Hoots attends all Trains. Telephone No. 77. J. Q. CHISHOLM. NEWCASTLE, CO. DOWN. SLIEVE DONARD HOTEL, FINKST HOTEL IN IRELAND. OWNED AND MANAGED BY BELFAST AND COUNTY DOWN RAILWAY CO. STANDS IN ITS OWN GROUNDS OF 12 ACRES. Faces Sea and Mourne Mountains ; Royal County Down Golf Ijinks (18 holes) immediately adjoining. Separate course for ladies. Spacious Reception Rooms and Lounge; 120 Bedrooms. Electric Light in all Rooms ; Passenger Lift ; Hall and Corridors Heated ; Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths. Croquet and Lawn Tennis Courts. Tariff on application to J. W. MANNING, Manager. Telegrams: "Slieve, Newcastle, Down." Telephone: 6. 38 NE\VCASTLE-OX-TYNE NEWQUAY — OBAN. NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. THE TYNE TEMPERANCE HOTEL, HOOD STREET, NEAR TO MONUMENT. \riSITORS will find every comfort combined with moderate charges. Coffee Drawing, Commercial, Smoke and Billiard Rooms. Electric Light throughout Good Stock Rooms. National Telephone, 2144 Central. Telegrams, "Tyne Hotel." The Artists' Sketch- Book Series. NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE. Sq. Demy 8vo. Bv R. .J. S. BERTRAM. Price 1/- net. Containing 24 Reproductions from Pencil Drawrings. "The books supply the toiirist of artistic sympathies with a collection of sketches that will mean more to him than the ordinary photograph."— .S'nrurday Review. PUBLISHED BY A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5, & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. NEWQUAY. HOTEL EDGCUMBE. "DEAUTIFULLY situated, with magnificent and uninterrupted view of -^ the Atlantic Ocean and surrounding country. Overlooking bathing beaelies. RECREATION ROOM. LOCK-UP GARAGES. Telephone 27. Apply Manageress. NEWQUAY. "PENOLVER," '■'"\Vp^„.V°^^'^ Uninterrupted Sea View. Path to Beaches from House. Easy access to Golf Links. 3 minutes from Railway Station. Electric Light. Best Position. Highly Eecom- mended. Tariff, etc. , on application. Telegrams-" Littlejohn, N,u(iuay. ' Jno. LITTLEJOHN (Ixete"!)- Vroprietor. MARINE HOTEL ,^^ ESPLANADE, OBAN. ^°^""V- 1 iiiin. Pier, 3 niiiis. .Station. s The Largest and Leading Temperance 9 , Hotel. Upwards of 100 Rooms. !'• /* Lounge overlooking Bay. •riti Inclusive Terms thruughout the Season. '^|i This High-Class unlicensed Hotel is i 'its,'' * °"'' °^ ^^^ most popular houses in Scot- {"rSSlt^, land, and is well known for itsexcellent ii''U||.,T! plain cooking and very nioy -r"« i!>. ou.; Published by A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, o, & 6 Soiio Square, London, W. PENZANCE PITLOCHRY. 41 PENZANCE. MOUNT'S BAY FIRST-CLASS FAMILY. On the Esplanade. Facing the Sea. Full South Aspect. Ladies' Coffee and Drawing Rooms. Smoke Room, for Visitors only, with Grand Sea View. Moderate and Inclusive Terms for Winter Months. 'Bus meets Trains. Boating, Fishing, and Bathing. WALTER H. PULMAN, Proprietor. "THE PITLOCHRY HYDRO-HOTEL," PITLOCHRY, PERTHSHIRE. "The Switzerland of Scotland." A First-Class Family Hotel. Standing in its own extensive ornamental jrrounds on the Moulin Road high above the \illage. Every window commands a view of the most magnificent Highland Scenery. Southern aspect. Sandy soil. Illustrated Guide on application. " The finest Bracing Mountain Air in Scotland," Said Sir Andrew Clark, Queen's Physician. Tennis. 18-Hole Golf Course. Croquet. Bowling. Illu&triitcd Guide on AppHcatioii. 'Phone 36. Telegrams— "Comfort, Pitlochry." Manageress— Mrs. MEIKLE. PITLOCHRY. CRAIGOWER PRIVATE HOTEL. {Under New Management.) MODERATE TARIFF. Boarding Terms. Good Cuisine. MOTOR ACCOMMODATION and J8-HOLE GOLF COURSE NEAR HOTEL. Mrs. M'LEAN (Late of the Dreadnought Hotel, Callander), Proprietrix. PITLOCHRY. CENTRAL PERTHSHIRE HIGHLANDS. LIST OF FURNISHED HOUSES TO LET FOR SUMMER MONTHS, &c. Free by Post, from C. C. STUART & SON. 'feleyrams — " Stuaiit, riTLuciiUY. " 42 PLYMOUTH PORTHCAWL PORTRUSH PORTSMOUTH. PLYMOUTH. DUKE OF CORNWALL HOTEL. The leading and lai'gest Hotel, centrally situated near Railway Station and Sea Front. Recognised Hotel for Ocean Passengers. GARAGE. ELECTRIC LIGHT AND LIFT. HOTEL OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS. Telegrams: "Dukotel." " R.A.C." and " A.A." PORTHCAWL. ESPLANADE HOTEL. First=class Residential. r J f^ ,_ 100 Rooms. fhrtUh'A M\'A9SKk ki RA.C. A.A. and M.U. UMU(H-^,y.\./*?>^ District Hotel. Registered Hotel. i^'W^^"^^-^^:^^'-^'!?::^^ Best Situation. *-*aii' :••. -•- >?.^3 ^'^ :«ii..q«.^»- First=class Cuisine. • ' ■ Moderate Inclusive Terms according to Room and Season. A%,;,. //'.'.' (v f/if Special discount til Offiiers (convalescent) ROYAL PORTHCAWL GOLF LINKS. inraliikd from the Front. PORTRUSH, CO. ANTRIM. NORTHERN COUNTIES HOTEL. (Under the Management of the Midland Eaihray Company.) FINEST GOLF LINKS IN IRELAND. SPLENDID SUITES OF SEA AND FRESH WATER BATHS. Electric Light throughout. Garage for 20 Motors. Lounge Hall. Magnificent Ballroom. Telegrams— "MIDOTEL, PORTRUSH." Telephone No. 14. Full partindars on application to F. AUDINWOOD, Manager, Nortbera Counties Committee's Hotels, etc. PORTSMOUTH. (TEMPERANCE) FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL, opposite town station. (Book for Portsmouth Town.) Every accommodation for Commercial and Private Visitors. NIGHT BOOTS. RESTAURANT. ALFRED QRIQSBY, Proprietor. ROSS-ON-WYE ST. FILLANS ST. IVES (CORNWALL) SARK. 43 ROSS-ON-WYE. ROYAL HOTEL. On an eminence overlooking River. ROSS IS THE GATE OF THE WYE (THE RHINE OF ENGLAND). ^PHE only Hotel in the Town with a Garden, Pleasure Grounds, and an uninterrupted -^ view of the River. Every Comfort. Moderate Charges. Electric Light. Posting. Golf. Fishing. Motor Garage and I. P. Petrol. Tel. : 40. ' ST. FILLANS, LOCH EARN— PERTHSHIRE. DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND TOURIST HOTEL. SPLENDIDLY SITUATED AT THE FOOT OF LOCH EARN. GOLF. FISHING. BOATING. POSTING. GARAGE. TERMS MODERATE. TELEGRAMS— Hotel, St. Fillans. R. A. CAMPBELL, Proprietor. la connection with Station Hotel, Oban. ST. IVES (CORNWALL). TREVESSA PRIVATE AND RESIDENTIAL HOTEL. MODERATE TERMS EN PENSION. Unrivalled Position overlool(ing the Bay. Three Minutes from Station and Beach. Near Golf Links. SPECIAL WINTER TERMS. ALSO FURNISHED HOUSE. Telephone 43. Miss V. NEWTON. SARK, CHANNEL ISLANDS. HOTEL BEL-AIR. On the most bracing spot In the Island. A first-class country hotel. THE largest and only Hotel on the island with a sea view. Possesses excellent sleeping accommodation ; large Public, Drawing, Smoking, and Dining Rooms (separate tables). Good Fishing and Bathing ; Croquet and Tennis. Terms moderate. N.B. — The Sark steamer leaves Guernsey at 10 a.m. daily (Saturdays at 11 a.m.) during the summer months. Passage about one hour. Carriages and Porter from the Hotel meet the Steamer. BLACK'S BRITISH POST CARDS. Beautiful Reproductions la Colour from Pictures by well-known Artists. Series 2, 3, and 4. THE CHANNEL ISLANDS. Three packets of si.x cards eaeli. Price 6d. per packet. Published by A. .'v: C. Hl.ACK, LTD., 4, 5, i SOHO SQUARE, LONDON. W. 44 SCOURIE SEATON SKYE — SLIQO. SCOURIE, SUTHEELANUSHIRE. FISHING. FISHING. SCOURIE HOTEL. "DEAUTIFULLY situated on West Coast and close to the famous Island of Handa -'-' with its myriads of birds and magnificent clitf scenery. Good brown trout fishing on about 100 lochs, several of which have been stocked and are fished this season for the first or second time, also good sea-trout and sea fishing ; 20 boats kept. Sea bathing, boating, motoring and horse-tiiring. ROUTE. — Rail to Lairg, thence per daily motor service or special motor, or per MacBrayne's weekly steamer, Glasgow to Badcall. jy^^ p^ RosS Frovrietor SEATON, DEVON. ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS Family Hotel. Most centrally situated. Overlooking Sea. Perfect Sanitation. Good Cricket. Golf. Tennis, etc. Axe Vale Harriers hunt the District. Good Sea and River Fishing. Garage with Inspection Pit. Repairs executed. Terms strictly Moderate. Telephone— ^0. 15. A. F. GODDARD, Proprietor. ISLE OF SKYE. Tourists wishing a quiet and pleasant holiday should come to SKYES and stay at THE SLIGACHAN HOTELi, under new management. Enlarged and Refurnished throughout. Excursions arranged for Loch Coruisk, Cuchullin Hills, Quirang, etc. Mountaineering. Fishing'. Carriages, Motors, Etc. Illustrated booklet on application, JOHN CAMPBELL. SL.IGO. VICTORIA HOTEL Patronized by His Excellency The Lord-Lieutenant (Earl Dudley), the Nobility, and Gentry. Tourists, Anglers, and Families will tind every convenience, combined with cleanliness and moderate chart^e.s. PRIVATE ROOMS, LADIES' SITTING-ROOMS. BATHS (HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER). BILLIARDS AND GOLF. Gentlemen slaying at tliis Hotel have the privilege of Free Fishing for Sahnon and 'J'rout on Loch Gill. Boats lor hire. Posting in all its branches. Omnibus attends all trains. Oarage. Headquarters R.A.C., A.A., and l.A.O. Cook's Coupons accepted.] .1. A. HALL, Proprietor. SOUTHAMPTON SOUTHPORT STIRLING — STRATHPEFFER. 4 5 SOUTHAMPTON, NEW FOREST, AND SOUTH HANTS. WALLER & KING, F.A.I. AUCTIONEERS, VALUERS, HOUSE, LAND, AND ESTATE AGENTS. THE AUCTION MART, 17 ABOVE BAR, SOUTHAMPTON. (Business Established 1819.) P.O. Telephone No. 230. Telegrams: " Auctioneers, Soutbamptoa." Recognised as the LEADING AGENTS in the above Important Area. SOUTHPORT— BIRKDALE PARK. SMEDLEY HYDROPATHIC. Electric Lift. Attractive Lounge. Electric Light. New Ball Room recently opened. WELL adapted fur Summer or Winter residenc'e, for either Invalids or Visitors. Terms from 7s. 6d. per day. Turkish, Russian, Plunge, and otlier Baths. Electric Cars run from tlie Hydro to Southport every If) minutes. Hydropathy fully treated, under own Physician, J. G. G. Cm-khill, M.D. NEAR GOLF LINKS. LAWN TENNIS, BILLIARDS, ETC. For Prospectus, apply Manageress. STIRLINa IflTAYERIiEY HOTEL, MURRAY PLACE. (HIGH-CLASS TEMPERANCE.) Established over Half-a-Century. REMODELLED AND REDECORATED. FOR FAMILIES, TOURISTS, AND BUSINESS GENTLEMEN. FIRST-CLASS RESTAURANT IN CONNECTION. ■ COOK'S COUPONS ACCEPTED. CHARGES MODERATE. Telephone 287. Motor Garage, Officially Appointed by Scottish Automobile Club. Electric Light throughout. P. M" ALPINE, Proprietor. ~ STRATHPEFFER. SPA HOTEL. Patronised by Royalty. THE OLDEST-ESTABLISHED AND LEADING HOTEL. Highest Situation, overlooking tlie Strath. Salmon and Trout fishing on Blackwator and Conon, and Lochs Garve and Luichart. Cricket. Tennis. Croquet. Close to line 18-hole Golf Course. Contains Spacious Public Rooms, Private Apartments fn mitf, Recreation and Ball Rooms, Conservatories, and is secluded enough to ensure to visitors the Privacy and Qniet of an ordinary Country Residence. Electric light throughout. Perfect Cuisine or Jledical Dietary. Reduced terms for Spring and Autumn months. Special Terms for the Army and Navy during the Vifar. Garages. Motor Cars on Hire, and Petrol, etc., supplied. Telegrams — " Wai-lack, Strathpeffer." 46 STRATHPEFFER TEIGNMOUTH TENBY TORQUAY. 14 liuurs froii 8 hours from Edinburgh. STRATHPEFFER SPA, ROSS-SHIRE. 14 hour, from London. THE PRINCIPAL HOTEL: THE BEN WYVIS. Finest Bitnation in extensive Fleasare Grounds, In full view of grand Highland Scenery. EVERY HOME COMFORT. Electric Light. Lift to all Floors. PUBLIC & PRIVATE APARTMENTS EN SUITE. Private path to the Wells & Bath.s Headquarters of the R. and S.A. Clubs. and to the Spa Gardens, in which _ , _ „, ._ ,„... a splendid Orchestra plays daily. Spacious Garage. Salmon & Trout Fishing Near Superior Golf Course (18 holes). | Telegrams— "Ben Wyvis." Note. — lUui^trated Tariff Booklet free on Application. STRATHPEFFER SPA, ROSS-SHIRE. MACGREGOR'S PRIVATE HOTEL. Mrs. MACGREGOR has resumed Management. NEAR THE SPA, THE GOLF COURSE, AND STATION. Billiards. Electric Liglit tliroughout. Mrs. MACGREGOR, Froprietrix. TEIGNMOUTH. ' HOBT. FROST &. SON, auctioneers & Estate Hoents. Monthly Register of ALL Houses both Furnished and Unfurnished, in Teignmouth and its immediate Neighbourhood, Post Free on Application. tenby! " THE COBOURG HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS, with Modern Improvements. Delightfully situated, com- manding picturesque views of the North Bay, with Private Lawn on Cliff. Spacious Lounge. Noted for best English food and cooking. Private Garage with Pit. On the official list of the R.A.C. Also Royal Hotel, Bath. 'iVep/(o«e ;<), Tenby. Mrs. J. B. HUGHES, Proprietress. TORQUAY. "MARISTOW" PRIVATE HOTEL {UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.) Charmingly situated, facing South, in one of the best situations in Torquay. MAGNIFICENT SEA AND LANDSCAPE VIEWS. Oidy a few minutes' walk from Torbay Sands, Princess Gardens, New Pavilion, Bowling Green, Pier, and Railway Station. EXCELLENT CUISINE. SEPARATE TABLES. SMOKING ROOM. SPECIAL TERMS FOR VISITORS MAKING EXTENDED STAY. Mrs. F. PAYTON, Proprietress. TORQUAY. 47 TORQUAY. ROSETOR. Late " ROSENAU." One of Torquay's splendid mansions arranged on modern lines as a high-class Private Hotel. Standing in its own Grounds of \h acres. Beautifully situated on Sea Front, facing due South, and commanding an uninterrupted View of the whole Bay. Private Walk direct to Tor Abbey Sands. Central for every- thing. Within easy distance of two Golf Courses. Tennis, Croquet, etc. Excellent Motor Oarage and Stabling. For terms apply Pkoit.ietors. TORQUAY. " HOUSE 81 ESTATE AGENTS, AUCTIONEERS, SURVEYORS, VALUERS, ETC. COX 81 SON, 8 STRAND. Established 1805. Illustrated Property List on application. Telegrams : "Cox & Son, Torquay." Tel. No. 8. TORQUAY. TORQUAY. HOUSE AGENTS, * AUCTIONEERS, VALUERS, ETC. G. R. SMITH & SON, A.A.I., 9 STRAND, TORQUAY. Established 1867. Illustrated Register of all available Houses post free. Also Special Lists of Apartments. Telephone 14. 48 TORQUAY TROSSACHS — TRURO. TORQUAY. ALLERDALE, Croft Road. A Refined and Comfortable PRIVATE HOTEL, En Pension. Standing in own Grounds. Facing South. Undoubtedly one of the finest situations in Torquay. Magnificent Sea View. Sheltered. Sunny. Select. Handsomely furnished and decorated. Heated throughout and fitted with Electric Light. Garage, etc. 'Phone — 667. Illustrated Tariff from A. THOMSON, Proprietor. TROSSACHS. STRONAGHLACHAR HOTEL, HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE. DONALD FERGUSON, Propriktor. rriHIS Hotel, the only one on the shores of Loch Katrine, is most -'- beautifully situated in the heart of ROB ROY'S Country ; GLENGYLE and the romantic GRAVEYARD of CLAN GREGOR, both described at page 77 of " Perthshire Guide," being in close proximity ; and as a fishing station it is unsurpassed. Excellent boats and experienced boatmen are kept for parties staying at the Hotel The Hotel is replete with every comfort, and is reached either by way of Callander and Trossachs and the Loch Katrine Steamer, or by the Loch Lomond Steamer and Coach from Inversnaid, there being a full service of Coaches and Steamers by both these routes during the season. Post and Telegraph Office In HoteL BOARD BY WEEK OR MONTH. Carriages and other Conveyances kept for Hire. Address : STRONAGHLACHAR, by Inversnaid. TRURO. RED LION HOTEL. Established 1671. Birthplace of Foote the Trag:edian. Centre of City. Close to Cathedral. Table d' H6te Dinner 7.30. Motor Oarage. Telepboae So. 99. Manageress— ^il^'i', CARLYON. TUNBRIDGE WELLS ULLSWATER WINCHESTER. 49 TUNBRIDGE W^ELLS. THE SPA HOTEL HOTEL-DE-LDXE. Telephone, 56. PATRONIZED BY ROYALTY. Telegrams: "SPA." HIGH- CLASS CUISINE EXCELLENT SERVICE. Orchestra. Unequalled FACING SOUTH. GARAGE. STABLING. HEALTH RESORT. For Brochure, apply MANAGER. THE FAVOURITE HOTEL OF WORDSWORTH. PATTERDALE HOTEL, ULLSWATER, PENRITH. BEAUTIFULLY situated in o^vn grounds near the head of Ull.swater, an excellent centre for many charming walks and climbs ; Helvellyn, Aira Force, and Kirk- stone Pass are within easy distance. The Hotel adjoins Post and Telegraph Office, and is near the Church. POST HORSES AND COMFORTABLE CARRIAGES. GARAGE. Misses HUDSON, Proprittresiet. ~ WINCHESTER AND COUNTY OF HANTS. Estate and House Agent. PERCY SHENTON, F.A.I., 41 JEWRY STREET, WINCHESTER. Register of Properties FOR SALE and TO BE LET. Special List Free on receipt of requirements. Tel. No. 7X. WINCHESTER. Turo Beautiful Souvenirs. By Telford Vari.kv. In the " Beautiful Britain Series." Containing V2 Full-page Illustrations in Colour. Square demy 8vo, cloth. Price Is. 6d. net it)}- post. Is. lOd.l. WINf HESTER By Oordos Homk. In the " Artists' Sketch-Book Series." Containing VT •I'vvyr-ikw ■ t.r». ^.j Reproductions in Facsimile from Pencil Drawings. Square demy Rvo. Price Is. net Iby post, Is. .^d.). PiBLisHED BY A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, S, & 6 SoHO Square, London, W. A^ui obtainable 0/ all BooktvUers, 50 WORKINGTON GREAT YARMOUTH. WORKINGTON. CENTRAL HOTEL (Adjoining Central Railway Station.) EXTENSIVE ALTERATIONS COMPLETED. ONE OF THE FINEST AND MOST LUXURIOUS DINING-HALLS IN THE NORTH. Hotel appointed by the Automobile Association and Motor Union. Good Stock Rooms. Garage. Posting in all its Branches. 'Bus meets all Trains. Telephone 250. J. KERLY, Proprietor. GREAT YARMOUTH. The Leading Family Hotels:— JLXX£ Q|J££JM S9 Tel. No. 28. Fine New Lounge. 125 Rooms. Electric Light. New Motor Oarage. R.A.C. & A. A. Hotel. 7Xx£ ROX JLXi^ TeLNo.26. Select Position. Winter Gardens and Lounge. R.A.C. & A. A. Hotel. 100 Rooms. Electric Light. T^HESE two first-class Family Hotels each occupy a commanding position on the Marine Parade, with magnifieeiit Sea Views, and opposite the Beach Gardens. ILLUSTRATED TARIFFS POST FREE. W. NIGHTINGALE, Proprietor. GAREERS FOR UUR SUNS. Handbook to parents." A Practical Handbook to the Professions and Commercial Life. Compiled from the most recent OlHcial Regulations, etc. By George H. 'Williams, M.A. (Oxon.), formerly Headmaster of Carlisle Grammar School. A'eiy Edition, lievised thruughout and Entarqed, and now wade uniform with Black's Books of lie/mrncr (" (C/io's Who," etc.). Crown 8vo, doth. Price 5s. net (by post 5s. 4d.). "We can heartily recommend the book to all who arc in a didkulty as to the choice of a career for their boys." — Academy. "A mass of information, brought thoroughly up to date, which any parent or guardian would do well to possess." — World. Obtainable of all Booksellers. PUBListiF.D BV A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5 & 6 Soiio Sqi'akk, London, W. RAILWAYS. 51 FURNESS RAILWAY. nr=~" ..^^imum ii Ml » Sr ■ m ■ ■■ (CONISTON FROM BEACON CRAGS.) 20 Rail, Coach, and Steam Yacht TOURS THROUGH LAKELAND EVERY WEEK-DAY From July 12th to September 30th. The following Tours embrace the chief places of interest in the Lake District. No. I. — Outer Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, Fumess Abbey, and Conistxjii. No. 2. — Inner Circular Tour, embracing Fumess Abbey, Coniston Lake, and Crake Valley. No. 4.— Middle Circular Tour, embracing Windermere Lake, the Crake Valley, and Coniston Lake. No. 5. — Red Banl< and Qrasmere Tour, t^ia Ambleside and Skelwith Force. No. 10.— Round the Langdales and Dungeon Ohyll Tour, via Ambleside, Colwith Force, Grasmere, and Rydal. No. 13.— Five Lakes Circular Tour, viz.— Windermere, Rydal, Qrasmere, Thirlmere, and Derwentwater. No. M. — Wastwater Tour, via Seascale, and Gosforth. Churchyard Cross, a.d. 680. No. 15.— Six Lakes Circular Tour, viz.— Windermere, Rydal, Qrasmere, Thirlmere, Derwentwater, and Ullswater. No. 16. — Duddon Valley Tour, via Broughton-in-Furness, Ulpha, and Seathwaite. No. 20.— Qeorge Romney's Home (1742 to 1755), Walney Bridge and Island, and Furness Abbey Tour, via Sowerby Wood. For further particulars see the Company's Illustrated Tours Programme, to be had gratis at all Furness Railway Stations ; from Mr. A. A. Haynes, Superintendent of the Line, Barrow-in-Furness ; and at tlie Offices of Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son ; also at the principal 1!ookstalls. Dl API^Dfini AND I AI^CC '" connection with the Company's Paddle DLMUIVrUUL THE LMIVLO steamers ■ lady Bvelyn'& 'Lady Moyra.' Every Week-day from July 1 2th to September 30th. the: outer circular tour (This Combination provides an ideal Day's Picnic Tour), by i'> Comedy Coronet (.sotting n ill Gate.) {S.W.) Court (Sloane Sq., 23 Covent Garden 18 Criterion 16 Daly's •J7 Drury Laue 6 Middlesex Music Hall 26 Duke of York's 22 New 15 Empire | 30 Garrick 5 New Royalty 37 Gaiety | 9 Globe 2 Oxford Music Hall 20 Haymarket 11 Palace 17 Hippodrome 1 Palladium 2ti His Majesty's 14 Pavilion 4 Holboni Knipir«; 38 Playhouse 12 Kin^sway 19 Prince of Wales 24 London Opera House 3 Princes 34 Lyceum 10 Queen's 7 Lyric 41 Savoy St. James's {lltin-r St. and St. Janus'sl'arkStn.) Scala {OooUgeSt., 13 Shaftesbury 35 Strand 39 The Little 33 Vaudeville Victoria Palace {Victorin). 21 Wvudliam's RAILWAYS STEAMERS. 55 DEVONSHIRE. Lynton & Barnstaple Railway This Narrow-gauge Picturesque Line affords connection at BARNSTAPLE (Town Station) with the Main Line Trains of the London and South- western Railway Company, and gives THE BEST AND QUICKEST ROUTE TO LYNTON AND LYNMOUTH FROM ALL PARTS For Time Tables, etc., apply — "GENERAL MANAGER," L. & B. RAILWAY, BARNSTAPLE. BIBBY LINE OF TWIN-SCREW MAIL STEAMERS TO EGYPT, CEYLON, BURMAH, AND SOUTHERN INDIA {Sailings Fortnightly, via Marseilles) Offers special facilities for passengers to and from SOUTH of FRANCE, the RIVIERA, ITALIAN LAKES, CORSICA, EGYPT, PALESTINE, etc. As the bulk of the Eastern passengers by this line embark and dis- embark at Marseilles, those desirous of the short trip (6| days) between England and Marseilles are afforded very ample accommodation on these fine twin-screw vessels, at very moderate rates. For such as desire a week at sea, with the most favourable surround- ings, this has become a very favourite trip. Passengers taking Return Tickets from Liverpool have the option of returning by any of the Bibby Line Steamers, or overland through Paris to London, first class ; similarly passengers may proceed to Marseilles from London by rail, and return by sea. FIRST-CLASS FARE ;^8:8s. SINGLE; j^is RETURN. MOTORS.— Special arrangements are made for the Carriage of Motors, and these are now largely availed of by those visiting the South of France, Riviera, etc. For all further information apply to Messrs. BIBBY BROS. & Co., 26 Chapel Street, Liverpool, or lOjll Mincing Lane, London, B.C. 56 STEAMERS. GLASGOW & THE WEST HIGHLANDS. CIRCULAR TOUR OCCUPYING ABOUT A WEEK BY THE Splendidly fitted steamer, (( TJ"U D ID T Tx TJ O " Superior Accommodation. Lighted by Electricity. n.COlS.1 LJCZ> Bathroom, etc. FROM GLASGOW AND GREENOCK For ISLAY, COLONSAY, OBAN, MULL, COLL, TIREE, WEST OF SKYE, BENBECULA, NORTH AND SOUTH DIST, BARRA, etc., affords the Tourist a splendid opportunity of viewing the naaguilicent scenery of the WEST OF SKYE and the OUTER ISLANDS. ISLAND OF ST. KJLDA.— During the Season extended trips are made to this most interesting and romantic Island, also to beautiful and wild Loch Roag, Lewis, when passengers are given facilities (W.P.) for landing. Telegraph Address : Farts, Time Bills, Maps of Route, Cabin Plans, and Berths secured "McCallum— Glasgow." at JOHN M'CALLUM & CO., 87 Union Street, Glasgow. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. CIRCULAR TOURS AMONG THE WESTERN ISLES OF SCOTLAND. THK Favourite Steamer DUNARA CASTLE sails from Glasgow and Greenock, via COLONSAY, lONA, BUNBSSAN, TIREE, BARRA, UIST, SKYE, and HARRIS. Affords to Tourists the opportunity of about a week's comfortable Sea Voyage, and at the same time a Panoramic View of the magnificent scenery of the Western Isles. Extended Toiirs to the Island of St. Kllda on special dates. For dates of sailings, fares, and further information apply to MARTIN ORME & CO., 20 Robertson Street, Glasgow. THE ROYAL MAIL ROUTE TO CAMPBELTOlffN (FOR MACHRIHANISH). Per "DAVAAR" or "KINLOCH." Via LOCHRANZA, PIRNMILL, and CARRADALE. Regular Sailings Tince Daily. Trains leave Glasgow (Central Station) 8.30 a.m. and 12.45 p.m. (Fridays 4.5 p.m.) to Gourock ; returning from Campbeltown 8 a.m. (Mondays 4.20 a.m.) and 3.30 p.m. For full particulars and alterations, see Glasgow newspapers. Telegrams, " Davaar, Campbeltown." J. L. Macdonai.d, 13 Clyde Place Quay, Glasgow, P. McCallum, Custom House Quay, Greenock, Agents. ROSS WALLACE, Manager, Campbeltown. Peeps at Great Steamship Lines. THE PENINSULA & ORIENTAL ByG e mitton. Containing 8 full-pagi' illustrations in colour, and 21 line illustrations in the text. Large Crown 8vo, cloth, picture cover. Price Is. 6d. net (by post Is. lOd.). "A very instructive account is given of the complicated organisation which is essential to the success of a great steamship line, and also of tlie course followed by the I', and O. boats, which is njore than ordinarily romantic." — Notlinghum Guardian. "Of volumes dealing with modern sea travel few possess greater interest."— Shipping Gazette. Published bv A. & C. BLACK, LTD., 4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W. And obtainable through any bookseller. SPORTING. 57 TO ANGLERS. W. J. CUMMINS, Ltd. Will send their Magnificent Catalogue and Angler's Guide FREE to any Address. This interesting book has over 200 pages, many hundreds of Illustra- tions, and Original Articles on Fly, Worm, and Minnow Fishing for Trout, Salmon Fishing, Hints to Anglers visiting Norway, Canada, New Zealand, &c. This publication has been highly praised and recommended by ail the principal Sporting Papers. FISHINGS TO LET. Information gladly given regarding Fishing Outfits for any part of the World. Write for particulars of Cummins' "Angler's Information Bureau." Special Salmon and Trout Flies for Ireland, including Lough Conn, Connemara District, Killarney, the Rosses Fishery, &c. Selected List of over Seventy Patterns for the Trout Rivers of the United Kingdom. Special Patterns for the Scotch Lochs. Special Flies and Tackle for Norway. W. J. CUMMINS, LTD. 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