THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 z<5 < fy W Farmer.
 
 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY 
 
 FALLS OF THE CAVERY; 
 
 Historical antJ SHJcripttbe Account 
 
 BY LIEUTENANT H. JERVIS, 
 H. M. 62 nd REGT. 
 
 3KImrtte& tottfl plates. 
 
 My humble pen, in unambitious strains, 
 Paints the blue mountains and the yerdant plains ; 
 Where health, on bilious cheeks bids roses spring, 
 And scatters blessings from her radiant wing. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 SMITH, ELDER AND CO., CORNHILL. 
 1834.
 
 LONDON t 
 
 PRINTED BY STEWART AND CO. 
 OLD BAILEY.
 
 TO 
 
 THE RIGHT HONORABLE 
 STEPHEN RUMBOLD LUSHINGTON, 
 
 LATE GOVERNOR OF MADRAS, 
 
 SIR, 
 
 THE work published by Captain 
 
 fau* 
 Harkness, containing a description of a singular 
 
 aboriginal race, inhabiting the summit of the 
 Neilgherry Hills, was fitly dedicated to you, 
 by whom so much has been done for the pros- 
 perity of the European settlement established 
 there. 
 
 A similar reason would have pointed you 
 out to me as the desired patron of my sketches 
 and description of the Falls of the Cavery, 
 because there also the difficulties of the Tra- 
 
 513818 
 
 I IR SFTS
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 veller have been removed, as 1 have had the 
 gratification of experiencing, by the prudent 
 acts of the Government of Fort St. George 
 during the time when you presided over it. 
 But I have a strong additional reason for dedi- 
 cating this little work to you, because I owe 
 it to your kindness, and that of Mr. ROBERT 
 HERBERT CLIVE, that I have had the means 
 of making this publication a Guide to the 
 Neilgherries as well as to the Falls. 
 
 If the Indian or English reader shall expe- 
 Y / rience but a small portion of the pleasure 
 which I have had in completing these sketches, 
 ^during the tasdium of a long voyage from 
 
 &~J& 
 
 / 
 India, I shall be excused for the presumption 
 
 of this my first intrusion on the public atten- 
 tion. 
 
 I beg to remain, 
 
 Right Honourable Sir, 
 With much respect, 
 
 Your most obedient and humble servant, 
 
 H. JERVIS.
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 His Grace the Duke of Northumberland, K.G. 2 copies. 
 
 Her Grace the Duchess of Northumberland 2 
 
 Most Hon. the Marquis of Queensberry, K.T. 1 
 
 Right Hon. Earl of Clancarty 1 
 
 Right Hon. Lord Panmure 5 
 
 Right Hon. Lady Panmure 5 
 
 Right Hon. Earl Powis 5 
 
 Right Hon. Lord Clive 2 
 
 The Hon. Robert Clive 2 
 
 The Right Hon. Lady Harris 1 
 
 The Hon. Miss Harris 1 
 
 The Hon. Musgrave Harris 1 ' 
 
 Right Hon. Sir Samuel Hulse, G.C.H. 1 , 
 
 Right Hon. Lady Hulse 1 
 
 Sir Henry I. W. Jervis, Bart. 3 
 
 Lady White Jervis 1 
 
 Sir John Kingsmill, Bart. 1 
 
 The Right Hon. S. R. Lushington 5 
 
 The Hon. Mrs. Lushington 3 
 
 Hon. Lauderdale Maule, 39th Regiment 2 ,, 
 
 Hon. William Maule Maule 2 
 
 Sir William Rumbold, Bart. 2 
 
 The Hon. Lady Harriet Williams Wynn 2 
 
 Lieut. J. G. Bawstorne, 62d Regiment 1 
 
 D. Baynes, Esq. 1 
 
 Lieut. W. G. Beare, 46th Regiment 1 
 
 Peter Bell, Esq. 1
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Lieut. J. J. Best, 34th Regiment 2 copies. 
 
 Lieut. Colonel Best 1 
 
 Miss Best 1 
 
 W. Binny, Esq. 2 
 
 Thomas Binny, Esq. 4 
 
 John Binny, Esq. 2 
 
 Alexander Binny, Esq. 2 
 
 W. Blackie, Esq. 1 
 
 John Bolingbroke, Esq. 1 
 
 Richard Bosanquet, Esq. 1 
 
 Peter Bourke, M.D. 1 
 
 Thomas Bower, Esq. 1 
 
 James Bower, Esq. 1 
 
 F. Bradley, Esq. 1 
 
 Mark Browne, Esq. 1 
 
 James Bumes, Esq. T.C. 2 
 
 Capt. W. Campbell, 62d Regiment 1 
 
 H. Chamier, Esq. 2 
 
 Lieut. C. Clarke, 62d Regiment 1 
 
 Clementson, Esq. 2 
 
 R. Clerk, Esq. 2 
 
 R. H. Clive, Esq. 4 
 
 Captain Clive 2 
 
 Rev. W. Clive 2 
 
 Rev. George Clive 1 
 
 John Coleman, P. P. 1 
 
 John Collier, Esq. 1 
 
 Peter Cooke, P.P. 1 
 
 Lieut. D. S. Cooper, 1st Royals 1 
 
 Lieut. F. Corfield, 62d Regiment 1 ' * 
 
 Rev. R. CorHeld 1 
 
 Rev. Thomas Corfield 1 
 
 C. Cotton, Esq. 4 
 
 Benjamin Cotton, Esq. 1 
 
 Captain Cramer, 4th Regiment M.N.I. 2 
 
 Mrs. Crampton 1 
 
 Major Crewe 2 
 
 Captain Crossley, 13th Light Dragoons 1
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Mrs. Parry 1 copies. 
 
 G. Pendergast, Esq. 2 
 
 W. C. Peters, Esq. 1 
 
 Mrs. A. M. Peters 2 
 
 Robert Pilkington, Esq. 2 
 
 Rev. P. Pounden 1 
 
 Lieut. Raitt, 1st Regiment Bombay N.I. 1 
 
 Lieut. R. Williamson Ramsay, 42d Regiment 1 
 
 Lieut. Rawstorne, 62d Regiment 1 
 
 Lieut. Col. J. Reed, K.H. 62d Regiment 1 
 
 J. H. Ridge, Esq. 1 
 
 Mrs. Ruthven 1 
 
 John Sanderman, Es . 
 
 Captain Scott, R.N 1 
 
 James Scott, Esq. 5 f) 
 
 J. Scott, Esq. 1 }) 
 
 W. B. Scott, Esq. 1 
 
 Lieut. Shaw, Madras Engineers 1 
 
 John Shaw, C.C.P. 1 
 
 Captain W. T. Shortt, 62d Regiment 1 ' 
 
 J. Sheffield, Esq. 2 
 
 E. Smith, Esq. 2 
 
 Provost Spied 2 
 
 Joseph Stone, Esq. 1 }t 
 
 D. Stone, Esq. 1 
 
 Ensign Stowell, 38th Regiment i 
 
 P. Sweeny, Esq. 1 )? 
 
 J. Taileure, Esq. 1 
 
 Captain F. Thornbury, 54th Regiment 1 
 
 The Rev. J. F. Trenow i 
 
 Captain Underwood, Madras Engineers 2 
 
 Lieut. Watts, Madras Engineers l 
 
 John James Watts, Esq. 1. 
 
 G. Webster, Esq. 1
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Lieut. J. J. Best, 34th Regiment 2 copies. 
 
 Lieut. Colonel Best 1 
 
 Miss Best 1 
 
 W. Binny, Esq. 2 
 
 Thomas Binny, Esq. 4 
 
 John Binny, Esq. 2 
 
 Alexander Binny, Esq. 2 
 
 W. Blackie, Esq. 1 
 
 John Bolingbroke, Esq. 1 
 
 Richard Bosanquet, Esq. 1 
 
 Peter Bourke, M.D. 1 
 
 Thomas Bower, Esq. 1 ,, 
 
 James Bower, Esq. 1 
 
 F. Bradley, Esq. 1 
 
 Mark Browne, Esq. 1 
 
 James Burnes, Esq. T. C. 2 
 
 Capt. W. Campbell, 62d Regiment 1 
 
 H. Chamier, Esq. 2 
 
 Lieut. C. Clarke, 62d Regiment 1 
 
 - Clementson, Esq. 2 
 
 R. Clerk, Esq. 2 
 
 R. H. Clive, Esq. 4 
 
 Captain Clive 2 
 
 Rev. W. Clive 2 
 
 Rev. George Clive 1 
 
 John Coleman, P. P. 1 
 
 John Collier, Esq. 1 
 
 Peter Cooke, P.P. 1 
 
 Lieut. D. S. Cooper, 1st Royals 1 
 
 Lieut. F. Corfield, 62d Regiment 1 ' * 
 
 Rev. R. Corfield 1 
 
 Rev. Thomas Corfield 1 
 
 C. Cotton, Esq. 4 
 
 Benjamin Cotton, Esq. 1 
 
 Captain Cramer, 4th Regiment M.N.I. 2 
 
 Mrs. Crampton 1 
 
 Major Crewe 2 
 
 Captain Crossley, 13th Light Dragoons 1
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Mrs. Parry 1 copies. 
 
 G. Pendergast, Esq. 2 
 
 W. C. Peters, Esq. 1 
 
 Mrs. A. M. Peters 2 
 
 Robert Pilkington, Esq. 2 
 
 Rev. P. Pounden 1 
 
 Lieut. Raitt, 1st Regiment Bombay N.I. 1 
 
 Lieut. R. Williamson Ramsay, 42d Regiment 1 
 
 Lieut. Rawstorne, 62d Regiment 1 
 
 Lieut. Col. J. Reed, K.H. 62d Regiment 1 
 
 J. H. Ridge, Esq. 1 
 
 Mrs. Ruthven 1 
 
 John Sanderman, Es . 
 
 Captain Scott, R.N 1 
 
 James Scott, Esq. 5 
 
 J. Scott, Esq. 1 }> 
 
 W. B. Scott, Esq. 1 
 
 Lieut. Shaw, Madras Engineers 1 
 
 John Shaw, C.C.P. 1 
 
 Captain W. T. Shortt, 62d Regiment 1 / 
 
 J. Sheffield, Esq. 2 
 
 E. Smith, Esq. 2 
 
 Provost Spied 2 
 
 Joseph Stone, Esq. 1 
 
 D. Stone, Esq. 1 
 
 Ensign Stowell, 38th Regiment l 
 
 P. Sweeny, Esq. 1 )} 
 
 J. Taileure, Esq. \ 
 
 Captain F. Thornbury, 54th Regiment l 
 
 The Rev. J. F. Trenow \ 
 
 Captain Underwood, Madras Engineers 2 
 
 Lieut. Watts, Madras Engineers l 
 
 John James Watts, Esq. 1. 
 
 G. Webster, Esq. j
 
 LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 James Webster, Esq. 
 
 Mrs. Webster 
 
 John Webster, Esq. 
 
 Thomas Webster, Esq. 
 
 Ensign H. Wells, 62 Regiment 
 
 T. R. Wheally, Esq. 
 
 Captain H. Jervis White, 50th Regiment, B.N.I. 1 
 
 J.Jervis White, Esq. 
 
 Mrs. Jervis White 
 
 J.B. Wildman,Esq. 
 
 Mrs. Willcock 2
 
 LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. 
 
 I. .Fort of Soosily on the Caver y ...... Frontispiece 
 
 II. Fall of Gungan Chuckee 8 
 
 III. Fall of Bir Chuckee 10 
 
 IV. A Toda Village 33 
 
 V. View at Oatacamund 46 
 
 VI. Lake at Oatacamund 60 
 
 VII. Officers' Quarters Poonamallee 82 ' 
 
 VIII. Situation and Hills of Vellore 84 
 
 IX. Mausoleum of Laulpett 86 
 
 X. Olsoor Tank, Bangalore 89 
 
 XI. Officers' Burial Ground, Bangalore ... 90 
 
 XII. Town of Closepett 92
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Hail noble Cavery ! Of thee I sing. 
 Thy rolling waters to the vallies bring 
 A welcome succour ; with a liberal hand 
 Bestowing plenty to a burning land. 
 
 " Oh, could I flow like thee, and make thy stream 
 " My great example, as it is my theme ! " 
 
 DENHAM. 
 
 THE Cavery rises in the mountains which divide 
 the Southern Peninsula of India, and after flow- 
 ing for about three hundred miles through 
 Mysore, is first seen in its beauty and utility 
 at Seringapatam. Rushing rapidly over the 
 iron-coloured rocks scattered in its bed, it en- . 
 circles the Fortress and Island of Seringapatam, 
 and by an ingenious native aqueduct, a part of 
 its waters which flow near the spot where Lord 
 Harris's camp and breaching batteries were 
 established, are used in cultivating the land, 
 
 B
 
 2 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 leading to the city of Mysore, the classic ground 
 of British heroism and generosity in 1799. 
 
 The works and the neighbourhood of Serin- 
 gapatam have been so often and so well detailed, 
 that nothing remains for me to add, but that 
 I could not survey these scenes without rever- 
 ence for the statesman, Marquis Wellesley, by 
 whose counsels the British Army was directed 
 against this capital ; and for the commander-in- 
 chief, Lord Harris, by whose skilful conduct of 
 the campaign and the siege, the British colours 
 first floated in triumph upon the battlements. 
 Cold too must that heart be which can con- 
 template without some feelings of pious awe, 
 the monuments of fallen greatness which sur- 
 round him. But it is an awe mixed with the 
 honest pride of an Englishman. 
 
 It is impossible to see the splendid tombs and 
 religious establishments of Hyder Ally and 
 Tippoo Sultan, and their wives and relations, 
 so carefully preserved and protected by the 
 British government, or to look at the munificent 
 provision made for their adherents, without re- 
 membering the English sentiment, which the 
 progress of the war in 1791 called forth from
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 3 
 
 Sir W. Meadows, as brave and honourable 
 an officer as ever lived, that " an enemy con- 
 quered is an enemy no more." In this spirit 
 not only the government, but individuals seem 
 to have acted ; for Tippoo's vindictive picture of 
 his fathers triumph over Colonel Baillie's de- 
 tachment remains upon the walls of the Dowlut 
 Baug, as visible as when the great Captain of 
 Waterloo commanded the place more than thirty 
 years ago. But the heart sinks in contemplating 
 the crowded memorials of those of our fellow 
 countrymen who have since fallen under its 
 pestilent climate, especially if the traveller has 
 ever felt the sting of a Mysore Fever as I have 
 done. Nor is this feeling abated by remember- 
 ing the still greater number of victims to disease, 
 during the governments of Hyder and Tippoo. 
 At one period they were so appalling as to have 
 led the Sultan to serious thoughts of abandoning 
 it, as the seat of his administration. 
 
 Out of many thousand natives who were com- 
 pulsorily brought from the Malabar Coast and 
 made Musselmans, only five hundred survived at 
 the end often years to relate their tragic expulsion 
 from their own habitations, and out of five hun- 
 
 B 2
 
 4 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 dred Europeans and artificers brought from the 
 Isle of France, only twenty-five outlived five 
 years' residence on this Island. It had been hap- 
 py for the dynasty of Tippoo if he had listened, 
 in this single instance, to the united dictates of 
 humanity and self-preservation ; for the posses- 
 sion of this formidable military position fostered 
 that towering ambition, which did not cease 
 until it had prostrated him under the dust of its 
 battlements. 
 
 After passing the limits of this fertile and 
 beautiful, but mournful Island, the Cavery de- 
 scends in one stream towards Soosily. Here the 
 army under Lord Harris crossed by a masterly 
 and unexpected movement ; and by securing for 
 the use of the British troops those supplies 
 which Tippoo had collected for his own, has- 
 tened the downfall of his empire and the entire 
 conquest of his dominions. 
 
 At this place the Cavery receives its first great 
 auxiliary stream, the Cubhany, which, flowing 
 past Nunjengoc[e, the favored residence of Mr. 
 Cole and Mr. Casamajor (the two last honorable 
 Agents of the British Government in Mysore) 
 brings into its course the alluvial treasures of
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 5 
 
 Wynaud, a country teeming with the richest 
 productions of Nature. Farther on, the Mud- 
 door river falls into it, fraught with the soil of 
 the country, through which it impetuously 
 passes ; and the Cavery, now greatly enlarged in 
 its limits, occupies a bed of nearly a mile broad, 
 varying from fifteen to twenty feet deep, before 
 it reaches the western point of Sivasamoodrum. 
 Here the river is divided by the rocks which op- 
 pose its course, and the two streams, after en- 
 circling the Island, again unite at the southern 
 extremity. But in their passage they descend 
 by two separate falls, not exceeded in magnifi- 
 cence and beauty by any yet discovered in any 
 part of India. Even the Fall of Niagara as de- 
 scribed by Capt. Hall and Mrs. Trollope does not 
 exceed in height one hundred and sixty feet. 
 
 The Northern Fall of the Cavery is about 
 three-hundred feet ; the Southern Branch about 
 two-hundred. The cheering sounds of these 
 great streams, in their descent, are fit heralds of 
 the gladness which they convey to the plains 
 below, where all nature languishes in the month 
 of June with heat and drought. Without any 
 previous notice, in the midst sometimes of a ra-
 
 Q FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 diant sun, or in the stillness of the night, it comes 
 sweeping down with plenty and with healing 
 in its course. 
 
 Those only who have seen the haggard eyes 
 and emaciated forms of the people, when its 
 descent has been delayed by a late season, and 
 who have also witnessed the joyful countenances 
 which proclaim its timely arrival, can form an 
 adequate notion of its value. It seems indeed 
 to be one universal jubilee. Men, women and 
 children, herds and flocks, and birds, and every 
 living thing, within reach of its shores, crowd 
 upon its banks, and do homage to the God of 
 nature, through whose bounty, the plentiful har- 
 vests of Trichinopoly and Tanjore are dis- 
 pensed in due season through half the southern 
 peninsula. 
 
 The scenery and manner of the descent of the 
 Cavery at Sivasamoodrum are in harmony with 
 its greatness and goodness. All pictorial repre- 
 sentations must however convey so feeble an 
 outline, that to be adequately understood, it 
 must be seen ; and all I propose to myself is, to 
 increase the temptation to others to visit it, as 
 I have done.
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 7 
 
 There was a time when the passage of the 
 Cavery, before it reaches Sivasamoodrum, and 
 the residence upon the Island, was full of diffi- 
 culty and danger ; but these both are now at 
 an end. The Jagheerdar of the Island, Rama- 
 samy Moodliar, under the encouragement of the 
 government, has erected two stone bridges over 
 the two branches of the river ; and upon the 
 Island he has built bungalows and choultries 
 for the comfort of Europeans and natives ; both 
 are so well supplied and kept by him, that the 
 traveller has now no inconvenience or trouble, 
 if he takes care to go at the proper season, which 
 does not commence till the Cavery descends in 
 July, and ceases about November when it begins 
 to be empty. These are splendid works, raised 
 as they have been by the piety and munificence 
 of a single Hindoo. The expence incurred in 
 their execution has exceeded two lacs of ru- 
 pees; and they afford a memorable example of 
 what may be achieved by individual exertion, 
 when encouraged by kindly intercourse, and 
 fairly supported by the fostering hand of the 
 Government. 
 
 Of the traditionary account of these Falls,
 
 8 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 which is generally told to persons visiting them, 
 it is not for me to decide how much may be fa- 
 bulous ; I shall only endeavour to describe the 
 Falls as I saw them, of which a general view is 
 given in the annexed sketches. 
 
 The northern branch of the river passes under 
 the bridge recently completed by Ramasamy the 
 the Jagheerdar. During the last season, the ri- 
 ver, which is here seventeen hundred feet broad, 
 was unusually full, but still there were three feet 
 of space above it. 
 
 Thence it winds along the southern side of a 
 mountain until it reaches the high land forming 
 the Island on the eastern side. Here it begins 
 to descend with considerable rapidity, till it ar- 
 rives at the head of the great cataract Gungan 
 Chuckee, so called in consequence of a Rajah of 
 the Island, whose name was Gungan, having 
 about seven hundred years ago leapt his horse 
 down at this place, at the command of the di- 
 vinity of the island, in order to cleanse himself 
 from a pollution he had unknowingly received. 
 Such is the legend related by an inhabitant of 
 this lovely spot, remarkable as the site of the
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 9 
 
 ancient Hindoo city of Gungan Para ; of which 
 some part may still be traced. 
 
 A little above this cataract, this branch of the 
 river is divided into two, encircling a smaller 
 island, which swarms with tigers ; but in the 
 rainy season there is no communication with 
 the larger island, from the velocity of the cur- 
 rent ; however, the latter has its share of these 
 ferocious beasts. The cataract nearest this latter 
 island is by far the largest, and has worn its 
 channel deeper than the other. About half 
 way down, there is a confluence, when the river 
 is not quite full, of two separate streams, dash- 
 ing upon huge masses of rock, and thence 
 plunging together into the chasm below. The 
 second branch flows along a higher part of the 
 rock, whence at right angles to the greater ca- 
 taract it rushes into the middle of the river in 
 two columns. 
 
 " And from the loud resounding rocks below, 
 " Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
 " A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower.'' 
 
 THOMPSON. 
 
 Here flights of birds are frequently hovering 
 and feeding upon the sides of the mountain,
 
 ]0 FALLS OF THE CAVER Y 
 
 probably upon the smaller fish precipitated 
 down the stream. When the river is quite full, 
 it falls in one unbroken cataract to the vale 
 below, and its sudden violence, as it rushes 
 down this deep descent, is beautifully contrast- 
 ed with the calmness of its subsequent gliding 
 through a valley, formed by the steep banks of 
 two mountains overhung with trees of great 
 variety, whilst the brushwood and long grass of 
 the bottom afford shelter to tigers, elks, hogs, 
 and all the feathered tribe of game. Here I am 
 told our worthy commander in chief Sir R. 
 O'Callagan had, last season, the satisfaction of 
 shooting a fine elk. 
 
 The fall on the southern branch of the river 
 is called Bir Chuckee, and is about two miles 
 from Gungan Chuckee ; a good road connecting 
 the two. The channel of the river here is 
 spread out to a magnificent expanse, -and its 
 stream, which is divided into seven distinct ca- 
 taracts of nearly the same height of two hun- 
 dred feet, cannot be advantageously seen without 
 descending a long flight of steps, that lead down 
 to the abyss, into which they fall. The eye is 
 then delighted with the descent of these differ-
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 1 1 
 
 ent branches of the stream, (forming an amphi- 
 theatre) rushing over and past the rocks and 
 trees and small islets, around which the various 
 streamlets and eddies play, and fall into the 
 chasm, worn by their descent ; whence the 
 river 
 
 " Gains a safer bed, and steals at last, 
 "Along the mazes of the quiet vale." 
 
 THOMPSON. 
 
 If an objection can be made to this view, it is, 
 that it appears somewhat too lonely amidst all its 
 loveliness. After enjoying it for some time, I 
 was glad to retrace my steps and view the fleecy 
 clouds rolling round the mountain to the left of 
 the greater fall, which, gilded by the glory of 
 the setting sun, and enlivened by the calling and 
 rapid evolution of the birds collecting for their 
 evening flight, were calculated to fill the mind 
 with admiration of the wisdom and power of the 
 Great Creator. 
 
 Having taken my last look of this sublime 
 scene, I returned to a pleasant and retired spot, 
 called the Fakir's Retreat, comprising, besides 
 the dwellings of a few of the sect, a tomb and 
 garden, which are kept with great care and neat-
 
 12 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 ness. The Fakirs in attendance, who beg 
 alms of visitors through the medium of a present 
 of fruits and flowers, told a long story of their 
 saint, whose remains lie buried there; and spoke, 
 as became them, with grateful respect of the 
 liberality of the present Jagheerdar, from whom 
 they have received so much kindness. 
 
 It was gratifying to see that their counte- 
 nances did not manifest those extreme signs of 
 debility and sickness which might have been 
 expected, in persons exposed throughout the 
 year to the fever which too often visits the 
 Island in the dry season, when the mountains 
 on the north-eastern side obstruct the circula- 
 tion of air ; and the dews of the night, and the 
 extreme rays of the sun during the day, gener- 
 ate the rankest vegetation, and rapidly corrupt 
 it. Let me advise all travellers to this celebra- 
 ted spot, not to sleep on the island in the dry 
 season, and not to expose themselves to the 
 night air, at any period. The bridge being now 
 finished, the safer plan is to effect a retreat in 
 the evening to Bulkawaddy, a village about two 
 miles from Sivasamoodrum, where Ramasamy's
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. J3 
 
 hospitality has provided a comfortable bun- 
 galow. 
 
 The Cavery, after leaving the island of Sivasa- 
 moodrum, gradually descends until it reaches 
 Bhavany ; here it is joined by the beautiful 
 river to which that town and handsome Pagoda 
 give their name ; itself composed of two streams, 
 which nearly encircle the Neilgherries, bringing 
 with them the decayed vegetation and super- 
 fluous mould of those hills. About Bhavany 
 there are numerous islands, formed by the river, 
 filled with pea-fowl and aquatic birds, that af- 
 ford amusement to the sportsman, and which 
 can only be approached in the round bamboo 
 basket-boats used upon this river. 
 
 To him who has any natural turn or love for 
 watery excursions, I recommend a descent on 
 the Cavery, when it is pretty full, and though 
 his nerves may be a little shaken, when he goes 
 whirling down the eddies, formed in the river by 
 the obtruding rocks, he cannot fail to admire the 
 extreme dexterity with which the boatmen es- 
 cape from the rock almost at the moment of 
 touching it. One gentle turn of the paddle
 
 ] 4 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 when the boat is rapidly impelled by the current, 
 is so effective, that it seems as if there was a re- 
 pulsive power in the rock which forbade the 
 boat to touch it. 
 
 At Caroor, the Ambravutty, and a little higher 
 the Noel, fall into the Cavery. All these great 
 streams, now united into one bed, wind in a 
 serpentine course through the valley of Sanker- 
 rydroog, from whose top the Cavery is seen in 
 great magnificence. But large as is the supply 
 of water, the labours of the husbandmen, and 
 the wants of every living thing upon the plains 
 in the dry season, nearly exhaust it, before it 
 reaches the sea ; so that of this great stream 
 there is but an imperfect branch when it reaches 
 Porto Novo, after washing the shores of the 
 Island of Seringham, the Rock of Trichinopoly, 
 and the walls of Chillumbrum, so often the 
 scenes of the immortal Olive's early glory!
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ' Away our journey lies through dell and dingle, 
 ' Where the blithe fawn trips by its timid mother, 
 ' Where the broad tree with intercepting boughs, 
 * Chequers the sun-beam in the greensward alley 
 ' Up and away ! for lovely paths are these 
 ' To tread, where the glad sun is on his throne; 
 ' Less pleasant, and less safe, when Cynthia's lamp 
 ' With doubtful glimmer lights the dreary forest." 
 
 ETTRICK FOREST. 
 
 BIDDING adieu to the noble river Cavery, I 
 shall endeavour to present to the reader some 
 inducement to proceed from its beautiful falls 
 to the Neilgherry Hills. But if he can go to 
 the Hills first, and to the Falls afterwards, he 
 will see and enjoy both to the greatest advantage. 
 After leaving the sacred Island of Sivasamoo- 
 drum, the first place in the route is Sattigaul, 
 the chief village of Ramasamy Moodliar the 
 hospitable Jagheerdar. From thence to Cooli- 
 gaul, one of the best cultivated of the Company's 
 pergunnahs, is about ten miles ; and at the same
 
 16 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 distance from Cooligaul is Shamrauz-nugger, in 
 Mysore, one of the Rajah's family villages. 
 Here there is a choice of two routes, either down 
 the Guzzlehutty Pass, and up to Coonoor, or to 
 Goondulpet, and thence to Ootacamund. The 
 route by Guzzlehutty is the most direct, and 
 provided the pass is not suffered to become dan- 
 gerous by the inattention of the civil authorities 
 to the destruction of the tigers that infest it, it 
 is best. The distances by each route are given 
 in the Appendix. Having reached Mateepol- 
 lium on the right bank of the Bhavany, the tra- 
 veller will there find an excellent bungalow, 
 with servants in attendance, to give him, upon 
 payment, what he requires. On that rapid 
 river, I understand, that a suspension bridge of 
 ropes is now constructing ; and after crossing it, 
 you pass a thriving village, recently laid out 
 and inhabited, where all requisite supplies may 
 be obtained. 
 
 The geographical limits of the Neilgherry 
 Hills have been so fully and accurately des- 
 cribed by Captain Harkness of the Madras army, 
 that public curiosity has nothing farther to re- 
 quire upon the local boundaries of this extraor-
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. \^ 
 
 dinary region; and his faithful and animated 
 description of the singular aboriginal race in- 
 habiting the summit of the hills would render 
 any observations upon their manners and cus- 
 toms superfluous. What is now wanted, is a 
 good guide to reach and enjoy this Indian Para- 
 dise; and I hope these pages may assist the 
 traveller there, either for the recovery or the 
 preservation of his health. 
 
 Let not the reader imagine, because I write 
 warmly, I am not writing accurately : there 
 have been in India, and I believe there are 
 still some persons in England very sceptical 
 about the climate and beauty of the Neilgher- 
 ries. One of the stoutest Indian doubters was the 
 late Bishop of Calcutta, who, having just passed 
 the month of June in the withering climate of 
 Calcutta, and being then exposed to the stifling 
 heat of the Choultry plain, could not understand 
 why, in a place in the midst of the torrid zone, 
 two degrees nearer the equator even than 
 Madras, 
 
 " Cool zephyrs through the clear blue sky, 
 Their gathered fragrance fling." 
 
 This is indeed one of those phsenomena of 
 c
 
 18 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 nature, which more learned persons than myself 
 must explain, for in no other part of the world 
 has there yet been discovered such an approach 
 to perpetual spring. But all that science and 
 industry can do in illustrating this beautiful 
 region of mountains and vallies will soon be 
 accomplished by Drs. Baikie and Christie, and 
 Mons. Jacquemont the celebrated French natu- 
 ralist, who is now there for the purpose. 
 
 In the course of twenty-four hours the varia- 
 tion of temperature is seldom greater than six 
 degrees, and the thermometer in its highest 
 range has never been known to reach seventy of 
 Fahrenheit. It was not until the Bishop found 
 there was a church to be consecrated at Oataca- 
 mund, that his doubts about the climate, and 
 difficulties of the journey yielded to that exalted 
 sense of public duty, which governed all his 
 thoughts, words and works ; and I cannot pre- 
 sent to the traveller a surer pledge of the enjoy- 
 ment he will find there, than in transcribing the 
 following letters from that excellent prelate to 
 the Right Hon. Mr. Lushington when Governor 
 of Madras.
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 19 
 
 Oatacamund, Dec. 4th, 1830. 
 MY DEAR SIR, 
 
 I owe you a large debt of thank- 
 fulness, in the first place for having made it clear 
 to me that I ought to visit these delightful Hills, 
 and in the second, for the complete and admira- 
 ble manner in which by your directions the 
 arrangements have been made, both for the 
 journey, and accommodation here. The kind- 
 ness which prompted so much attention, will 
 be gratified in knowing that it has been accom- 
 plished in every particular. To all the public 
 functionaries I am under much obligation ; but 
 Mr. Casamajor's splendid hospitality, the con- 
 sideration and foresight with which his plans 
 were laid to ensure expedition, and to guard 
 against inconvenience ; his kind and gratifying 
 attention, made our three days at Yelwall abso- 
 lutely jours defete, and left only the regret that 
 what was so very agreeable should be so very 
 transitory. The Hills far exceed any thing I 
 allowed myself to expect. I have been racking 
 c 2
 
 20 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 my memory for something to compare them 
 with : the closest resemblance I can find, is 
 Malvern at the fairest season ; but the extent 
 and bold variety gives these a decided superi- 
 ority. We had yesterday a continued rain, and 
 this was necessary perhaps to moderate the es- 
 timate I should have formed of their perfect 
 enjoy ableness. But Thursday morning soon 
 after sunrise, on the summit of Doddabetta, and 
 
 this morning on the hill in front of this house, 
 3Wr*^2 tew 
 
 I had a fuller sense of the enjoyment to be de- 
 rived from air and natural scenery, than I ever 
 remember to have experienced at any time, or 
 at any place. 
 
 Of the capacity for agricultural improvements 
 which really exists here, no one can doubt who 
 looks duly at the state of the gardens ; we 
 were yesterday disappointed of a proposed visit 
 to the farm, but Major Crewe has 'kindly 
 promised to accompany me this evening, and 
 I hope to give it a careful inspection. All that 
 I have hitherto seen, leads me to suppose 
 that this would be the very place I have been 
 so anxious to find out ever since I had an 
 opportunity of looking into the real state of the
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 21 
 
 community in India, where we might establish 
 an agricultural settlement under the authority 
 and direction of the government. 
 
 I am sure that all classes of society in India 
 would benefit by the advantages which must 
 follow upon such a plan, if well conducted. I 
 shall beg permission to lay before you, some- 
 what in detail, the views I entertain upon this 
 subject, and if they obtain your approval, I 
 would afterwards submit them to the Governor 
 General, and the President of the Board of 
 Control. 
 
 There is another project which is very much 
 in my mind, in reference to the future condition 
 of the natives who reside on the hills, or who 
 are brought hither with a view to employment. 
 An outline of this plan I take leave to enclose. 
 With respect to the funds necessary for its es- 
 tablishment and maintenance, I have no doubt 
 I shall be able to procure them either from in- 
 dividuals, zealous in the good cause, or from 
 the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge, 
 should you be disinclined to undertake it in 
 behalf of the government or rather I would 
 confine my application for assistance to the
 
 22 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 necessary grant of land, and such countenance 
 as you may think it expedient to give to a 
 measure, bearing so directly on the social and 
 moral improvement of the native inhabitants. 
 
 I hope on Monday to have occasion to address 
 a public letter to your Excellency in council, 
 thanking you for the erection of the church, 
 which will be consecrated and opened for di- 
 vine service to-morrow. My letter will also 
 convey an earnest representation of the urgent 
 necessity that exists under the actual and pos- 
 sible circumstances of this place, that it should 
 be made permanently a chaplain's station ; the 
 duties which would belong to it, are in the 
 highest degree important and interesting, and 
 they are of such a nature, that they ought 
 not to be confided to, for certainly they would 
 not be discharged by, any individual who had 
 been obliged to resort hither by the failure of 
 his own health. 
 
 I do most heartily wish that I could look at 
 it as coming within the limits of my authority, 
 as diocesan, to direct Mr. Sawyer to remain on 
 the hills for the purpose of taking the clerical 
 charge provisionally ; this however is out of the
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 23 
 
 question, and I must confine myself officially to 
 a strong recommendation that a chaplain should 
 forthwith be appointed. As a matter of private 
 judgment, I will not decline to add that if the 
 appointment were made in Mr. Sawyer's behalf, 
 I have no doubt the duties would be performed 
 most satisfactorily. He possesses all the requi- 
 sites for an efficient discharge of them, novel and 
 burthensome as they must be. I have written 
 at so much length on matters of local interest, 
 that I dare not extend my view to the alarming 
 news which has just reached us. Is France 
 again to be the crater of a volcano to desolate 
 the civilized world ? It is a frightful possibility. 
 Our's is Bombay news from Glasgow, of the 
 2nd of August. The next arrivals will pro- 
 bably bring something more distinct and certain 
 than these rumours. 
 
 I have the honour to remain, 
 Dear Sir, 
 With much respect, 
 
 your obliged and obedient servant 
 (Signed) J. M. CALCUTTA. 
 
 To the Right Hon. S. R. LUSHINGTON.
 
 24 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 Cannamore, Dec. litk, 1830. 
 MY DEAR SIR, 
 
 I cannot take leave of the Madras 
 presidency, without requesting permission to 
 renew my thanks, for the unvarying kindness 
 and attention I have experienced from every 
 member of the goverment, and from all the 
 subordinate authorities during my journey. I 
 ascribe this wholly to your powerful interfer- 
 ence, and feel myself bound, in consequence, to 
 endeavour to convey my thanks in such a form 
 as may give them the character of being what 
 they really are, personal rather than official. 
 
 We left Oatacamund on Tuesday morning at 
 seven, and reached the top of the pass about 
 mid-day. We found a tent pitched in a situation 
 of unequalled magnificence on a green summit, 
 commanding a boundless extent of prospect and 
 backed by one of those wooded slopes with a 
 waterfall, which form the charms of Neilgherry 
 scenery. Here we took leave of Major Crewe, 
 and however suspicious it may appear to give
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 25 
 
 good words in requital for kind offices, I cannot 
 help saying how much I am struck with the 
 practical good sense that shews itself in all Ma- 
 jor C.'s arrangements. He not only sees what 
 these hills may be made, but how the work is 
 to be done ; and he sets about doing it with a 
 patient adaptation of his means to his wants, 
 which must I think, and at no very distant period, 
 ensure success. The order and productiveness 
 of the storehouse garden at this moment may 
 serve to prove what the whole settlement may 
 become, if the same systematic attention be be- 
 stowed upon it. Since I have seen the Neil- 
 gherries I am less anxious to give to the Hindo- 
 Britons any portion of them for a settlement. 
 The advantages are so considerable, and must, I 
 conceive, be realized so rapidly under the pro- 
 tection, and with the encouragement of the go- 
 vernment here and at home, that you need give 
 nothing more. Whatever grants of land you 
 make, whether to individuals or companies, let 
 the grant be for three or five years, rent free, 
 and then give a lease for twenty-one years at a 
 corn rent, at the rate of one-third the estimated
 
 26 FALLS OF THE C A VERY 
 
 produce ; either party (viz. the government or 
 the occupier) having a right to demand a new 
 valuation every seven years, on the principle of 
 Mr. Goulburne's admirable Irish Tithe Bill. A 
 very considerable revenue, very easily levied, 
 would thus accrue to government; and this 
 amongst other advantages is surely not to be 
 overlooked. We had the thermometer at 60 
 in the tent, with that soft freshness which 
 belongs especially to the Neilgherry atmosphere. 
 AtGoodaloor, two hours later, it was at 80, close 
 and stifling. We had a rough and in some 
 respects perilous scramble through the jungle 
 to Mannantoddy, but the excellent arrange- 
 ments which had been made brought us through. 
 I must not enter on the wonders of the Wynaud, 
 further than to observe that I am more than 
 ever astonished at the apathy and ignorance 
 which prevail at home with respect to the 
 resources of India. The cotton, coffee, and to- 
 bacco, of this district, its mineral and other 
 spontaneous productions, would with even mo- 
 derate care and pains, become an overflowing 
 stream of wealth, and of that which statesmen
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 27 
 
 love best, revenue. I never saw a country, 
 which with a little management, might be 
 rendered so gloriously taxable. 
 
 I must not return your instructing financial 
 paper, without thanking you for the paragraph 
 respecting the ecclesiastical establishment of 
 your presidency. 
 
 It is a most valuable testimony, and I need not 
 say how important it is at this moment. My 
 own close observation enables me thus to ac- 
 cept the commendation on behalf of the clergy 
 as frankly as it is given. Scantily as our 
 church establishment is provided, as a system, 
 it is, as far as it goes, quite efficient, and I am 
 persuaded that much of the improvement now 
 so happily discernible in Indian society may be 
 ascribed, either in its origin, or its support to the 
 influence of the chaplains. There are excep- 
 tions, but they apply to individuals only ; and 
 if more care is taken by those who enjoy the 
 patronage, such exceptions will soon become 
 even less frequent. Tarn ashamed of the length 
 of my letter, and will only add a request that 
 when you hear with certainty who has moved 
 the wires which have set that puppet show, France,
 
 28 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 in commotion, I shall be greatly obliged by any 
 intelligence you may think proper to commu- 
 nicate. 
 
 I remain, 
 
 Dear Sir, &c. &c. 
 (Signed) J.M.CALCUTTA. 
 
 H. C. Sloop, Coote. 
 Cannanore Roads, Feb. \st, 1831. 
 MY DEAR SIR, 
 
 I delayed to send you the enclosed 
 paper, till I could visit and examine closely 
 Sir J. Malcolm's new settlement in the Deccan, 
 of which so much has been said, as I thought it 
 probable much might be learned there. I was 
 able to accomplish this in my way from Poonah 
 to Bombay. 
 
 I was much gratified by the news of Mr. 
 Sawyer's appointment to Oatacamund ; my fa- 
 vorite projects for a school will, I have no 
 doubt, flourish under his care, and in all re-
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 29 
 
 spects, the residents will derive much benefit 
 from his valuable services. 
 
 I am thus far on my way to Columbo pur- 
 posing to call at Cochin. Should my health 
 (which seems quite re-established) permit, and 
 the season prove not unfavourable, it is my in- 
 tention to proceed from Ceylon by the coast 
 route, so as to visit Trichinopoly, Tanjore, and 
 Cuddalore, and to reach Madras before Easter. 
 
 I must not hope to find you there at that 
 season. Indeed I should be much disappoint- 
 ed to know that you were not on the Hills, 
 where Major Crewe's operations will, I am 
 persuaded, interest you considerably, and re- 
 ceive great benefit from your presence. 
 I remain, 
 
 My dear Sir, &c. &c. 
 (Signed) J. M. CALCUTTA. 
 
 Some of my Indian readers may observe, 
 that what was easy to the Bishop, aided by 
 the public authorities, in his transit to the Hills,
 
 30 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 would be impracticable to them ; and that, the 
 privation aud suffering of a long journey over 
 the heated plains of India, the expence of travel- 
 ling and of living on the Hills, shuts them out, 
 in a measure, from sharing in what the Bishop 
 calls " Malvern at the fairest season, but in 
 extent and bold variety decidedly superior, and 
 where he had a fuller sense of the enjoyment to 
 be derived from air and natural scenery, than 
 he ever remembered to have experienced at any 
 time, or at any place" 
 
 But these difficulties have now no substantial 
 foundation. There are good public bungalows 
 and good roads from Madras through Bangalore 
 and Mysore to Oatacamund, and through the 
 Baramahl ; and the best proof of both is, that 
 a gentleman has driven his wife in a tandem 
 from Madras to Oatacamund and back, and 
 when the lady was asked how she liked it, 
 said, " nothing would give her so much plea- 
 sure as to perform the journey in the same 
 manner again, except going to England." 
 
 I have given in the Appendix, the places to 
 halt at, and the distances, both on the upper 
 and lower roads, to the Neilgherry Hills, through
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 31 
 
 Mysore, and by the Baramahl district ; and the 
 Madras traveller will thus be enabled to choose 
 for himself, according to his mode of travelling. 
 If he goes by the Baramahl, he will have the 
 gratification of passing through the country which 
 was the first scene of the Civil labours of the 
 late Sir Thomas Munro, " clarum et venerabik 
 nomen" and of reposing at Darampoory, in the 
 house, now a public bungalow, which was the 
 first settled residence of that highly-gifted man. 
 A residence which he had made so comfortable, 
 that he left it for scenes of more extensive and 
 arduous exertion, with that strong reluctance 
 which is so well expressed in the private corres- 
 pondence published in his life ; and this very 
 bungalow, with its garden, was purchased for 
 the Company for 260 rupees. 
 
 The expence and inconvenience of living on 
 the hills is not now greater than at Madras, and 
 many subordinate cantonments ; for Nassur- 
 wanjee Jhangier, a Parsee merchant from Bom- 
 bay, established a shop three years ago upon 
 the hills, where every European article may be 
 obtained as cheap as at Madras ; and two other 
 Parsee merchants have followed his example.
 
 32 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 The bazaar near the lake is abundantly sup- 
 plied ; and those extravagant demands for house- 
 rent, which were once so appalling to the new 
 comer at Oatacamund, have ceased, and the 
 supply of houses and quarters has been made 
 nearly equal to the demand. 
 
 At Kotagherry also, an arrangement has been 
 made by the late governor for the public con- 
 venience, which secures quarters at Dimhutty, 
 for those who stand most in need of them, free 
 of expence ; and this removes every objection 
 which the want of funds might have opposed to 
 an invalid's residence on the Hills. The regula- 
 tions under which accommodation in the bunga- 
 low at Dimhutty is to be allowed, will be ex- 
 plained by Major Crewe, the officer command- 
 ing on the Hills, to any person who may apply 
 to him ; and there is now no more difficulty in 
 travelling through the country by Coonoor to 
 Kotagherry or Oatacamund, than there is in 
 going from Madras to Pondicherry in the dry 
 season. 
 
 The discovery, as it may be called, of the 
 Neilgherry Hills, is one of the remarkable cir-
 
 4 
 
 ^ & 
 
 " x 
 
 I 
 
 & I 
 
 4
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 33 
 
 cum stances connected with them ; and adds to 
 those instances of apathy and ignorance of the 
 resources of India, noticed by the late Bishop 
 of Calcutta, in one of his letters. 
 
 From the year 1799 up to 1819, these moun- 
 tains were in the daily view of all the authorities 
 from the plains of the Coimbatoor province, and 
 a revenue was collected from them for the Com- 
 pany by a renter (a Chitty) and paid into the 
 Cutchery of the collector of that province. 
 But of the country nothing was then known. 
 
 After twenty years' possession by the Com- 
 pany, two young civilians, Messrs. Whish and 
 Kindersley, were induced, in consequence of the 
 maltreatment of some Ryots in the low country, 
 by a Polygar, who fled up the pass of Danayn- 
 keucottah, to follow his track ; and not being 
 encumbered with him as a prisoner, they after- 
 wards proceeded to reconnoitre a little of the 
 interior of the hills, as they had for some time 
 before intended. Their first halt was at a vil- 
 lage called Dynaud, about nine miles to the 
 eastward of Kotagherry near Rungasamy Peak, 
 (the most sacred mountain on the Neilgherries), 
 where they found the man they were in search 
 
 D
 
 34 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 of, in a hut. He was exceedingly polite in of- 
 fering refreshments to the gentlemen, and pre- 
 tending to go for some milk, took the opportu- 
 nity of making good his retreat ! 
 
 They then proceeded across the hills, and de- 
 scended by the Keloor Pass. But they had 
 seen and felt quite enough to excite their own 
 curiosity and that of the collector, Mr. Sullivan, 
 who, establishing his general residence there, 
 continued to live in this delightful climate with 
 his family, in health and comfort, for the great- 
 est part of the succeeding ten years. 
 
 It appears from Mr. Sullivan's letter in the 
 Appendix, that he did every thing in his power 
 to attract the attention of the governors, who 
 preceded Mr. Lushington, to the full use of 
 the hills for the benefit of the public, but that 
 he could not succeed. Since Mr. Lushington's 
 accession, the local government have given a 
 zealous and uniform encouragement to every 
 useful suggestion, and under his unceasing in- 
 fluence and exertion the settlement has attained 
 its present advanced state. 
 
 When the increasing visits of military officers 
 to the hills, in search of lost health, rendered
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 35 
 
 the appointment of a commanding officer neces- 
 sary to keep order, and to assist in supplying 
 their wants, Major Kelso was selected, and 
 from that time the enjoyment of this place has 
 been gradually extending, and will soon, it is to 
 be hoped, be within reach of all classes of Eu- 
 ropeans in every settlement of India, who require 
 the benefit of this marvellous change. 
 
 The passes are every day becoming more 
 easy to every description of supplies, and of 
 travellers. 
 
 At the conclusion of these pages, I shall add 
 such information as will explain the improved 
 state of the several routes up to September 1832, 
 and some observations which I trust may be 
 . found worthy of public attention. 
 
 The ascent to the hills from the river Bha- 
 vany, by the Coonoor Pass, presents a scene 
 of magnificence and beauty, which must be 
 seen, to be understood. On the left hand side 
 of the Pass is a stupendous chasm bounded by 
 the Oolacul range of hills, and from the base to 
 the summit is six thousand feet high. In view- 
 fa ing this hill from the top of Dodabettaj it is seen 
 
 1 T 1 1 1 
 
 *^%' to plunge directly into the low country, and 
 
 K*<4>fi 
 
 D -
 
 36 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 this observation first pointed out to Mr. Lush- 
 ington the practicability of ascending by this 
 direct route. This suggestion having been as- 
 certained, by Majors Kelso and Cadogan, and by 
 Lieut. Le-Hardie, to be correct, the Pass was 
 commenced by Major C., and has been since 
 completed by the strenuous exertions of the 
 Madras pioneers under Captains Eastment and 
 Murray. 
 
 In every part of the Coonoor Pass, where the 
 rock is not perpendicular and scarped, it is co- 
 vered with trees, except some small places that 
 have been cleared by the Curumbers,* on the 
 side where the elephants cannot reach them, 
 and where they have sown small grain resem- 
 bling the millet. On the right hand side a 
 discovery has been recently made, by that intel- 
 ligent officer, Lieut. Le-Hardie, of a fine forest 
 of teak, which will greatly contribute to the 
 saving of expence in building on the hills, as 
 also to the general comfort of the inhabitants. 
 A cataract rolling down in the centre of the 
 chasm completes the grandeur of the scene, con- 
 veying that unfailing delight which the fall 
 
 * A diminutive race of men, inhabiting the neighbouring jungles.
 
 AND NE1LGIIERRY HILLS. 37 
 
 of rushing waters affords in every part of the 
 world, and to no persons more strongly so, than 
 those who have been long dried up in the plains 
 of the Carnatic, or jaundiced in the marshes of 
 Calcutta or Bombay. 
 
 From the banks of the Bhavany near the 
 Mateepollium bungalow, the ground is nearly 
 level for four miles and a half to the foot of the 
 mountains, and the valley stretching on the 
 right hand towards Srimogay, and on the left to 
 Nellumboor and Bolumputty, has been the hunt- 
 ing ground for the elephants. 
 
 Although much has been done to decrease 
 the number of these destructive animals, they 
 still occasionally infest the paths to the foot of 
 the Pass, and not long ago an officer was com- 
 pelled to fly as fast as his horse could carry him, 
 with his horse-keeper and grass-cutter clinging 
 to his tail, from the assault of a single elephant, 
 who, having been driven from his herd, was 
 ready for any act of fury or destruction. But 
 the Collector, who has a large establishment of 
 Shikaries (huntsmen), will take care to keep 
 this tract clear in future, especially at the season 
 when the elephants come down, and the road
 
 38 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 is so level and good, that a good hard gallop is 
 a fit prelude to the slower pace, at which the 
 pass must be ascended. 
 
 As the mode practised in taking the elephant 
 in Coimbatoor differs from that in use in Ceylon, 
 and may afford gratification to many of my 
 sporting friends, I shall give them a description 
 of it in the following chapter.
 
 AND NE1LGHERRY HILLS. 39 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 " Meanwhile in troops, 
 " The busy hunter-train mark out the ground, 
 " A wide circumference ; full many a league 
 " In compass round ; woods, rivers, hills and plains, 
 " Large provinces ; enough to gratify 
 " Ambition's highest aim, could reason bound 
 " Man's erring will." 
 
 SOMERVILLE. 
 
 NUMEROUS herds of elephants traverse the 
 jungles at the base of the Neilgherries ; and 
 though an elephant-hunt cannot be attended 
 without great risk of fever, it has nevertheless 
 been sometimes witnessed by parties from the 
 Hills, who have for the most part taken the 
 precaution of sleeping at some little distance 
 from the scene of action, where the country is 
 more open than at the Coopum, (an enclo- 
 sure into which the elephants are driven,) 
 which is generally in the thickest part of the 
 jungle. 
 
 It is now about seven years since the govern-
 
 40 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 ment, on the representation of the collector of 
 Coimbatoor, furnished him with a party of ele- 
 phant-hunters from Chittagong, and the prac- 
 tice of these people has, with a little alteration, 
 been acted upon with great success to the pre- 
 sent time, though the original hunters returned 
 to their native country after the first year. 
 
 As soon as the elephants make their appear- 
 ance from the Malabar side, intelligence is con- 
 veyed to the Darogah (the chief hunter) by the 
 Mulsas, who are a diminutive wild race of men 
 living entirely in the jungles, and particularly 
 clever in tracing these animals in their route, 
 which is invariably along the base of the 
 Hills to Mysore. The herd is then surrounded 
 by about three hundred of the Ryots, care being 
 taken to leave the animals an abundant supply 
 of water, without which, it is impossible to pre- 
 vent their breaking through the lines. About 
 two hundred tank-diggers are then employed in 
 making the Coopum, which consists of a circu- 
 lar ditch of one hundred yards diameter, eight 
 feet wide, and nine deep ; the entrance to it is 
 the most beaten track to be found in the thick- 
 est part of the jungle. To guide the animals to
 
 AND NEILGHE11RY HILLS. 4] 
 
 this, a strong line of hedges is made, to the ex^ 
 tent of about three hundred yards in length, on 
 each side, diverging from the entrance ; this is 
 called the Kye-coopum. 
 
 When all is completed, in doing which a month 
 or more is consumed, the Polygar chiefs of the 
 district, who are bound to assist on these occa- 
 sions, are called in, accompanied by their follow- 
 ers, each of whom is provided with a matchlock. 
 By these people, who are again assisted by 
 others armed with an inferior kind of sky-rocket, 
 the elephants are with little difficulty driven into 
 the trap prepared for them ; when two bon-fires 
 being lighted at the entrance, the tank-diggers 
 are enabled to complete the circle around them, 
 unmolested. 
 
 After the elephants have been left without 
 nourishment for two or three days, a part of the 
 ditch is rilled up, and eight or nine tame ele- 
 phants are taken in, for the purpose of keeping 
 off the most refractory of the wild herd, whilst 
 the Mahouts and Kutmahouts (elephant-keepers) 
 are employed in tying their legs together, and 
 then securing them with a strong cable-like rope 
 to a tree of sufficient strength to hold them. Of
 
 42 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 these latter there is always an abundance in the 
 spot chosen for the Coopum. 
 
 When the elephants have trampled down the 
 under-wood, which is soon accomplished, how- 
 ever thick and high originally, the appearance 
 bears that of a mass of mud with the large trees 
 standing in it, owing to the restless circles which 
 the wild elephants are constantly making in it, 
 until they are secured. 
 
 After the whole have been bound, and some- 
 times as they are successively secured, the wild 
 elephants are dragged out singly, between two 
 tame ones. Then, being fastened to some con- 
 venient trees, where the jungles are free from 
 fever, they remain there with their attendants 
 who sing to them, and conciliate and caress 
 them for a week. After this they proceed to 
 Coimbatoor, where they remain till the sores, 
 caused in their legs by the cords tied round 
 them, are healed, and they are then sold by 
 public auction for the benefit of the Company. 
 One of the number caught last June was pur- 
 chased at the sale in August, and is now a 
 passenger in the ship where I am writing these 
 pages, quite healthy and tractable.
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 43 
 
 The mode of taking the elephant in the 
 neighbouring district of Madura is very differ- 
 ent : there the herds are driven to the top of a 
 natural pass (named Cumbum), near the head 
 of the Dindigul valley, whence they have a 
 view of the cultivation of the low country, and 
 having been harassed in the jungles by fires 
 and hunger, and being driven by the hunters in 
 their rear, they at length rush through an open- 
 ing between two rocks, so narrow as to admit 
 but of one elephant at a time. The descent 
 being thence rapid, they rush down and fall 
 into pits prepared for their reception, about ten 
 feet square and ten deep. The ground here is 
 chequered like a chess-board, if I may use the 
 expression, with these pits, with a steep moun- 
 tain on either side, and a ditch in the front. 
 The pits being covered loosely with straw, se- 
 veral of the elephants fall into them at the first 
 rush, when the rest, making a precipitate re- 
 treat, occupy the ground between the entrance 
 and lines of pits. Here they are shot by the 
 sportsmen posted on each side. 
 
 On one occasion sixty- three elephants were 
 in this manner destroyed by " Mantons and
 
 44 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 Purdeys," in about four hours ; and at another 
 time in Coimbatoor, before the art of taking 
 them was so well understood, one sportsman, 
 an acquaintance of mine, bagged twenty-six 
 elephants in the course of the day. But on 
 both occasions, the sportsmen knew their work 
 better than the " murderers of Chuny in Exeter 
 Change.'" A single small ball in the front of 
 the head, in the hollow just above the insertion 
 of the proboscis, or (should the animal present 
 his side) in either temple, conveys immediate 
 death to the largest of the tribe. 
 
 The rush of the elephants towards the pits is 
 a grand spectacle ; the forest crashes and seems 
 alive with them, and their trumpeting, when 
 they discover the pits, is a terrific, but to the 
 sportsman, not an unpleasing sound. Accidents 
 sometimes, but not often, occur. One of the 
 most fearful instances remembered, was the 
 falling of Capt. B. into one of the pits, at a time 
 when the herd was momentarily expected ; but 
 a kind Providence saved this gallant officer, and 
 restored him to his party, amidst cheers of joy 
 and congratulation ! 
 
 To the description of the pass and valley of
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 45 
 
 Coonoor, it only remains for me to add that the 
 traveller will now find at the top an excellent 
 bungalow, with glass windows and fire-places, 
 and enclosed stables : the first, probably, he may 
 have seen since he left his paternal hearth, and 
 began his march of life upon the waves. 
 
 To a person exhausted with the heat of the 
 plains, the change that he feels and sees in the 
 atmosphere, and in the magnificent scenes 
 around him, is indeed heart-cheering ; and if 
 there be any poetry in his soul, he can deliver 
 his feelings only in verse, and in none more ap- 
 propriate than in that prayer of pious but grateful 
 awe, with which our first parents duly paid their 
 morning orisons 
 
 " These are thy glorious works, Parent of good 
 
 * Almighty, thine this universal frame : 
 
 ' Thus wond'rous fair thyself how wond'rous, then 
 
 ' Unspeakable ; who sit'st above these Heavens 
 
 ' To us invisible or dimly seen 
 
 ' In these thy lowest works yet these declare 
 
 ' Thy goodness beyond thought and power divine." 
 
 From Coonoor to Oatacamund, the climate 
 becomes cooler every mile. In the valley of 
 Katey may be seen the beginning of English 
 husbandry, under the care and well-known skill 
 of Major Crewe ; Southdown sheep grazing,
 
 46 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 English cattle in perfect health, and crops of 
 potatoes that would be prized even in the " Land 
 of Murphies." When the bluff rock of Katey is 
 passed, and the ascent gained towards Elk Hill, 
 the view is quite exquisite. The ride round 
 Elk Hill, from the South-downs, up to Doda- 
 betta is, I believe, as varied and magnificent, 
 and what in India is so extremely rare, as enjoy- 
 able at all hours of the day, as any in the wide 
 world. Mountains, forests, cataracts, verdant 
 plains, azure skies, the carolling of the lark, the 
 frequent whistle of the black-bird, the chatter- 
 ing of the monkies in the woods, and the occa- 
 sional lowing of the stag, walking in his majesty 
 upon the opposite mountain-top, or Bruin 
 ploughing up the side for wild potatoes, com- 
 plete the delight of this delicious ride. 
 
 But amongst other joys, should be mentioned 
 the vigorous appetite and spirits, which the 
 change creates ; and happy the man, who can 
 get his legs under a good table for the first 
 fortnight, at least. In that time his own ser- 
 vants come up, and become a little used to the 
 climate and habits of the place, and the want 
 of this has been often felt by new-comers. On
 
 {=
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 47 
 
 this account encouragement has been given by 
 the government to the establishment of a good 
 hotel ; and, as a building highly suitable for the 
 purpose has been constructed by Sir William 
 Rumbold, to whom the settlement on the Hills 
 is greatly indebted, I trust soon to hear that 
 my brother officers, and the rest of the commu- 
 nity at large, have the benefit of an hotel or club- 
 house, as well managed as that of Madras ; and 
 no higher praise need be coveted by any club. 
 
 There is one caution which I would give to 
 all new-comers on the Hills, and especially to 
 invalids, who should observe it with the utmost 
 care Not to go out at night. This is essential 
 to their own recovery, as well as an act of ne- 
 cessary consideration and humanity towards 
 their servants. When their pores and half- 
 clothed bodies are exposed to the cold after the 
 sun is down, they always become discontented 
 and often very sick. But if well clothed and 
 kept in the house, warm at night, they enjoy 
 the place and are in no hurry to leave it ; es- 
 pecially if they receive, as they ought, some 
 little increase of pay, as a boon to their absent 
 families. I have invariably found, that an act
 
 48 FALLS OF THE CAVERY, 
 
 of justice of this kind to the native servants, is 
 amply repaid in comfort to their masters. 
 
 There is hardly a mountain or a valley in the 
 whole region of the Neilgherries in which the 
 sportsman may not expect to find some sort of 
 game from the tiger, the monarch of the 
 Indian woods, down to the jungle sheep and 
 timid hare ; which latter are both excellent eat- 
 ing on the Hills. But the tiger is not so frequent 
 or so ferocious as to create any apprehensions 
 that embitter the enjoyment of the shooting on 
 foot in the forests. His food of bullocks, elk, 
 and buffaloes is so abundant and easily obtain- 
 ed, that he very rarely displays a passion for 
 human flesh. Probably, the perfect state of 
 concord which has so long existed between these 
 terrific animals and the native population, who 
 have no arms for their destruction, (their best 
 instrument being a heavy bit of wood, as here 
 
 Ij inches diameter 4 feet long 3 inches diameter 
 
 represented) together with the absence of all 
 intense heat of the sun, concur in rendering 
 them less irritable and savage than the tiger of 
 the plain. Of the fact, however, there can be no
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 49 
 
 doubt. Hence a party of natives have been 
 seen sitting in perfect confidence when a tiger 
 has gone past them, showing no other symp- 
 toms of fear, than a little hallooing, and coolly 
 making a salaam as he passed. In the same 
 spirit, the women of the village have assembled 
 when a tiger has been killed, and throw- 
 ing themselves upon their knees before him, 
 touched his bristles with their foreheads, in 
 token of their respect and amity. . 
 
 But the accuracy with which the Hill inhabi- 
 tants mark down the haunts of every species of 
 game, is worthy of notice. Frequently has it 
 happened that they have come into Oataca- 
 mund, with intelligence of a bear, or two bears, 
 and sundry elks and hogs ; and I am told that 
 they have never failed, after being fully satis- 
 fied of a reward, if their information proved 
 correct. The face of the country is decidedly 
 favorable for the purpose. Every where there 
 are commanding hills ; and as the game feed 
 in the valleys, they are discovered at the dawn 
 of the day, and watched from different high 
 places, going into the wood or ravine, where 
 they generally remain till the evening. The
 
 50 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 habit which the people constantly practise 
 of hallooing to each other from hill to hill 
 in their ordinary concerns, as mentioned by 
 Captain Harkness, is also highly favorable to 
 the marking of the wild animals accurately, 
 because they are not alarmed at the bawling 
 going on, although they may be the objects 
 of it. To make assurance doubly sure, the 
 villagers take possession of the surrounding 
 heights, and remain watching, whilst a messen- 
 ger is sent with the news. 
 
 The arrival of such a herald was always a 
 joyful summons ; guns, spears, dogs and horses 
 were put in immediate requisition. A consider- 
 able number of beaters were at first employed 
 in rousing the game, but the sporting skill and 
 zeal of Major Kelso has provided an agreeable 
 substitute, and good dogs being gradually col- 
 lected, were found to be better adapted for the 
 purpose. They were bred from a cross of a 
 large foxhound, and a good bull-bitch. To 
 hunt a little, but not to dwell upon the scent, 
 and to hold very hard, are requisites in a Neil- 
 gherry dog. They keep the largest game at bay 
 until the sportsmen come up, and with the addi-
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 51 
 
 tion of a number of excellent Scotch terriers, and 
 some fine pointers, or setters taught to chase, 
 great sport has been obtained, as the best of 
 game kept by a friend of mine would abundantly 
 testify. Frequently it has happened, that when 
 a stag has gone away untouched, or slightly 
 wounded, the hounds have pursued him till he 
 was sufficiently tired to take up his stand in a 
 mountain stream, and then the exertion to 
 reach the scene, required speed as well as bot- 
 tom in the sportsmen. 
 
 Exclusive of the sport, which was generally 
 cheered by a good tiffin, occasionally enlivened 
 by the presence of some who would adorn any 
 assembly in the world, a hunting or shooting 
 party on the Neilgherries derived peculiar at- 
 tractions, from the extreme beauty and variety 
 of the landscapes. The fresh and purifying air 
 breathing from the mountain tops, through rho- 
 dodrendron-trees clothed with their gorgeous 
 flowers ; the wild cinnamon-tree with its own 
 delicate blossom and fragrance, encircled by 
 the honeysuckle and great dog-rose, relieved by 
 a back-ground of stately ever-greens ; whilst 
 the merry black-birds pouring their melodious 
 
 E 2
 
 52 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 notes and making the forest ring with tuneful 
 harmony, made altogether such a scene, as dear 
 Old England can alone surpass. Nor is the 
 chorus the less perfect for an occasional deep note 
 from a fine elk, looking down in seeming defi- 
 ance from the summit of some neighbouring hill, 
 and majestically descending, with his full ant- 
 lers and measured step, into a wood on the 
 other side, where some tumbling cataract, or a 
 clear stream running at the bottom of it, affords 
 a good promise of becoming better acquainted 
 with him. 
 
 In this manner stags have been shot fourteen 
 hands and an inch in height. The flesh of 
 the body weighing 586 pounds, and the span 
 between the horns, thirty-three inches. 
 
 Near the elk, old bruin and cubs, or some 
 hogs., have been occasionally seen grubbing up 
 the wild potatoes, and taking shelter "in the 
 same wood. Arrived on the spot, the different 
 sportsmen take their stations along the side and 
 at the bottom of the wood, in the places most 
 likely for the game to break. The dogs being 
 all in hand, are held out of sight and hearing 
 behind the brow of the hill, and when the
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 
 
 53 
 
 sportsmen have taken up their positions, the 
 master of the chase sounds his horn, and every 
 dog rushes into the wood. If it be large and 
 sometimes they are of two or three miles in ex- 
 tent nothing is heard for a few minutes but 
 the dog-boys ,cheering the pack ; some hound 
 then strikes upon the scent or catches a view, 
 and then begins the stimulating cry of the dogs, 
 and every sportsman anxiously looks out for 
 elk, bear, or jungle sheep. Those who are 
 getting into the " sere and yellow leaf," and 
 whose limbs are not so pliant with the oil of 
 youth as formerly, are best placed on some 
 neighbouring tree or rock, where the tracks and 
 fresh soil of the elk are to be seen, and where 
 no active efforts need be made. Here they are 
 also less likely to shoot themselves or others. 
 But then there must be no moving, talking, or 
 even whispering. The sight of an unaccus- 
 tomed object, or even the sudden turning of a 
 bough, will often stop a fine stag that is coming 
 crashing down through the forest, and then per- 
 haps he breaks away on the opposite side, j umping 
 
 up or down some enormous precipice, where 
 
 
 the dogs lose all trace of him. The youth,
 
 54 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 who is active and has a good ear to distinguish 
 the distance of the dogs and the line of the 
 chase, who has speed and strength and a steady 
 hand, notwithstanding the exertion of running, 
 will enjoy this noble sport in its finest form, by 
 following the hounds on the outside of the wood, 
 as they descend in the inside. 
 
 It is by the joint skill and strength of the old 
 and the young, that so much sport is obtained ; 
 and how much it is enjoyed is best attested, by 
 the fact, that the bipeds are always ready to take 
 the field again, before the dogs have sufficiently 
 recovered their fatigues. To them it is often a 
 day of great exertion, sometimes of severe suf- 
 fering, and occasionally of destruction. 
 
 If elk only are found, the pack comes home 
 safe, and sometimes not much exhausted ; but 
 if bear or hog form a part of the day's sport, 
 some of the dogs will be wounded, and all of 
 them considerably fagged. Occasionally a tiger 
 commits ravages and escapes unseen. One of 
 the very best dogs of the pack was in this way 
 destroyed by a single pat, which doubled his 
 head back upon his shoulders, and breaking his 
 neck killed him in a moment. At another time,
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 55 
 
 three fine foxhounds, who gallantly persevered 
 in attacking a tiger, were all destroyed. 
 
 But after the dogs have been accustomed to 
 hunt in the Neilgherries, they understand how 
 unequal they are to the tiger ; and though the 
 extraordinary piercing cry of the dog attests 
 the presence of the animal, in a manner not to 
 be mistaken, he will sneak off, if not vigorously 
 opposed by the sportsman in his progress. 
 When roused by the noise in the wood, or by 
 the dogs going near his lair, it often happens 
 that he is sleepy and full of food. Their hours 
 of eating are in the night, and nothing can be 
 more different in their nature, than both the 
 tiger and the lion, in their states of hunger and 
 fullness. Ferocious as they are when feeding 
 or wanting food, they are comparatively inno- 
 cent and harmless when they have dined, and 
 like Falstaff's prince, may be then approached 
 with great confidence and safety. 
 
 There was one remarkable instance of an 
 enormous tiger killed in the Neilgherries, who, 
 after having sprung upon a bullock during the 
 night, and feasting upon him, was in the dawn 
 of the morning seen to enter a small but
 
 56 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 deep wooded ravine not two hundred yards 
 long and not fifty broad. A party of sportsmen 
 being collected to kill him, the ravine was 
 drawn by firing blank cartridge down each side, 
 and sounding horns of every description. As 
 there was no appearance of the tiger, it was 
 concluded he had stolen off, and the party were 
 going away, but one of the attendants happen- 
 ing to peep into the ravine where he could see 
 some distance into it, beheld the beast screwed 
 into the smallest compass lying directly under- 
 neath the bank where he stood, three muskets 
 were then fired but missed him, and the party 
 collected for the purpose of destroying him. It 
 was soon found he had shifted his berth, and 
 gone to the other side, and the first indication 
 he gave of his actual presence was, by a tre- 
 mendous roar within ten feet of the place where 
 several persons were standing immediately over 
 him, but he made no effort to spring upon 
 them. It was true that he had been wounded 
 some time before, by a Shikaree, employed by 
 the Burghers to destroy him after he had be- 
 come troublesome to their herds at Nunjenaud ; 
 but his inactivity was owing chiefly to his
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 57 
 
 gorged state ; it took nearly four hours of shout- 
 ing and noise, together with the aid of some 
 dogs to rouse him from the inaccessible parts of 
 the ravine, so as to bring him within sight and 
 shot ; when dead, it was found that ten bullets 
 had pierced him. 
 
 It is far, however, from my intention to encou- 
 rage the sportsman on the Neilgherries, to pur- 
 sue tiger- shooting as a matter of amusement ; 
 but I hope there will be always a sufficient 
 number of steady shots to prevent their accu- 
 mulating, if the government do not employ fit 
 Shikaries for this purpose, who, now that there 
 is no difficulty in ascending the Hills, might 
 come up with greater readiness from the low 
 countries. 
 
 However these animals should not be allowed 
 to enjoy the comfort of abundant food, water 
 and shelter undisturbed by the sportsman ; and 
 I have no doubt but that my friend and bro- 
 ther officer, the sporting laird of S. has, ere this 
 meets his eye, tried with his wonted coolness, 
 the effect of his excellent rifle upon some of 
 them. But I am given to understand, from an 
 experienced shot, that for Neilgherry shooting,
 
 58 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 there is nothing better, or so good even, as a 
 double Manton or Purdey of large bore. When 
 more than one elk breaks cover at the same 
 time, and even when there is only one, the right 
 and left-hand barrels are both useful. Neither 
 the elk, nor Bruin, and still less the jungle sheep 
 give any spare time for reloading. Their rapid 
 rush and the unequal surface of the country, 
 often hides them, notwithstanding their size, 
 before a good aim can be taken. 
 
 In the low land the nature of the tiger is very 
 different from those on the Hills. Water, food, 
 and shelter can seldom be obtained but at im- 
 mense distances, and the tigress as well as the 
 tiger is compelled to traverse many miles before 
 their natural appetites are appeased. 
 
 It is the same with the lion of Afric's burning 
 shores ; in their natural condition they are com- 
 pelled to roam over sandy deserts and forests 
 unfrequented by man, for water and food, and 
 their unsettled life precludes any considera- 
 ble increase. But, when brought to the Cape 
 and kept in confinement, with plenty of food 
 and water, their increase is prodigious. There 
 were lately purchased, at Mons. Villet's in Cape
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 59 
 
 Town, a lion and lioness stuffed, who were the 
 parents of forty cubs in the course of four years, 
 and afterwards of twenty, making together sixty 
 from one pair. The progeny are scattered over 
 different parts of the world ; some were sent to 
 Paris, some to Vienna, some are in Calcutta, 
 and two remain at the Cape. When the lion 
 died, he was incautiously skinned near the den 
 whence the lioness could see him, and her af- 
 flicted looks and moaning satisfied the owner 
 that her death, which took place a month after- 
 wards, was owing to her grief for his loss, as 
 stated in the following certificate given when 
 they were purchased from him : 
 
 " This lion was fifteen years old, and died 
 about two years since of the liver complaint. 
 
 " The lioness died about six weeks after- 
 wards of grief. I had the lioness about fifteen 
 years, and in that period she had sixty cubs. 
 
 " She had in the first four years five cubs in a 
 litter, and twice each year. After the fifth 
 year, she had only one litter a year. The names 
 given them were Prince and Princess." 
 
 (Signed) " L. W. Villet." 
 " Cape Town, 8th Jan. 1833."
 
 60 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 No lake so gentle,, and no spring so clear, 
 No hill so blue, no woods so green appear, 
 All nature's bounties seem united here 
 To give man health throughout the circling year. 
 
 " But the sound of the church-going bell, 
 " These rallies and hills never heard, 
 " Never sighed at the sound of a knell, 
 " Or smiled when a sabbath appeared." 
 
 COWPER. 
 
 THE reader who is inclined to be critical may 
 think that too much has been said of" the Zephyr 
 which fondly sues the mountain's breast," upon 
 the Neilgherries ; but if he has been long a 
 sojourner on Choultry Plain, and still remembers 
 those days in his native land which " sent into 
 the heart a summer feeling," let him go, before it 
 be too late, to the Neilgherry Hills, " for one day 
 
 i/frito r> 
 
 of existence more, and joy." Although SirThos. 
 Munro well said, " there appeared to be two 
 suns shining instead of one," such seems the
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. Q\ 
 
 splendid light which is often shed upon the 
 mountains when relieved by the dark shadows 
 of the forests of ever-green trees, yet there is no 
 heat to injure, especially if a small umbrella be 
 used. The manner in which even this thin 
 covering throws all feelings of the sun's rays 
 from the person, is as extraordinary as it is 
 agreeable. 
 
 But it appears that not the air alone is worthy 
 of homage on the Hills. The water is thought 
 by the best judges to be as pure as any in the 
 world, and as a proof of it, I transcribe the fol- 
 lowing extract of Mr. Bannister's analysis of it. 
 
 Madras, Jan. 1st, 1831. 
 MY DEAR SIR, 
 
 I have now the pleasure to 
 state, for the information of the Right Hon. 
 the Governor, that I yesterday finished my 
 examinations of the two bottles of water that 
 were transmitted from the Neilgherry Hills,
 
 (52 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 and I have been surprised to find no trace 
 whatever of any saline, earthy, or metallic sub- 
 stance in either of them. 
 
 I think I understood from the Governor that 
 he had requested Dr. Mack to test the water 
 from the spring near the Avalanche, and that 
 he supposed that it contained iron. My atten- 
 tion was therefore particularly directed to this 
 point; but neither prussiate of potash, nor the 
 succinate of ammonia, though the most delicate 
 tests we have for detecting that metal, even 
 when applied with all the necessary precautions, 
 gave the slightest indication of its existence. 
 
 I look upon the result of this enquiry as very 
 extraordinary. I never remember to have read 
 of spring water containing no extraneous matter. 
 Indeed I have a standard chemical work now 
 before me, in which the reverse is asserted. It 
 is my intention therefore to obtain all the infor- 
 mation I can on this subject, and to afterwards 
 publish the fact in some English journal as one 
 of great curiosity. 
 
 It may be proper for me perhaps to state 
 what are the tests I have employed in the ex- 
 amination of these waters : to avoid detail I need
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 63 
 
 only premise, that in order to render some of 
 them of certain effect, a few precautions are ne- 
 cessary; all of which I have of course duly 
 attended to. 
 
 The clear water only was taken for examina- 
 tion, consequently only those substances which 
 were in a state of solution would be discovered. 
 
 The re-agents which I have employed are the 
 following ; 
 
 Nitrate of Silver. 
 
 Prussiate of Potash. 
 
 Barytes. 
 
 Hydro Sulphurate of Ammonia. 
 
 Oxalate of Ammonia. 
 
 Tincture of Litmus. 
 
 Succinate of Ammonia. 
 
 Nitrate of Barytes. 
 
 Phosphate of Soda. 
 
 Alcoholic Solution of Soap. 
 
 Sulphuric Acid. 
 
 Neither of the waters sent, either upon or 
 after testing, were in the least degree changed 
 by the addition of any of the above tests. The 
 effect was very different with the Madras town
 
 (34 FALLS OF THE C A VERY 
 
 wells water, from which a precipitate was occa- 
 sioned by six, out of the eleven tests. 
 
 If I had the means I would evaporate a con- 
 siderable quantity of these waters in a proper 
 manner, and then examine the remainder. By 
 this means quantities of extraneous bodies, which 
 may be too inconsiderable to be detected by re- 
 agents in the ordinary way, might be discovered. 
 I remain, My dear Sir, 
 Yours faithfully, 
 
 W. BANNISTER. 
 
 To J. LUSHINGTON, Esq. 
 
 &c. &c. 
 
 I have noticed in a preceding page, that the 
 difficulties which induced the Bishop of Cal- 
 cutta to decline a visit to the Neilgherries on 
 his way to Bombay, for his own gratification, 
 yielded to his sense of duty when he found that 
 a Christian Church awaited his consecration. 
 With what alacrity he entered upon this holy 
 office, his own letters are the best proof, and the
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 55 
 
 ceremony was performed under circumstances 
 that will make the first day of offering up sup- 
 plications and thanks in a Protestant Temple 
 amidst these mountains, a day much to be re- 
 membered. I have the satisfaction of giving to 
 the reader an account of the ceremony as writ- 
 ten by the late Mr. James Lushington ; and 
 some passages from the sermon preached by the 
 Bishop on that occasion. 
 
 " On the 5th of December 1830, the church, 
 of which the foundations were laid last year at 
 Oatacamund by the Governor, was consecrated 
 by the Bishop of Calcutta. 
 
 " The day was peculiarly propitious to the 
 event. Though the sun shone in unclouded 
 splendour, the thermometer was only at 60 ; 
 and the atmosphere breathed that soft fresh- 
 ness, which gives to the climate and the scene- 
 ry of the Neilgherries, such peculiar enjoyment, 
 continually presenting the image of that scene 
 so beautifully described by the poet, where na- 
 ture wantoned in her prime : 
 
 ' Non alios prim& crescentis origine mundi 
 Illuxisse dies, aliumve habuisse terrorem 
 Crediderim ; ver illud erat, ver magnus agebat 
 Orbis, et hibernis parcebant flatibus Euri.'
 
 CO FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 " The site chosen for the church is one of 
 **"- * great convenience and beauty, centrical and 
 jfc / easily accessible, by the fine road formed by 
 the Pioneers under Major Cadogan. It stands 
 on the base of one of those verdant slopes which 
 constitute the charm of Neilgherry scenery, yet 
 high enough to command a perfect view of 
 mountains and woods, which, bounding the 
 happy valley of Oatacamund to the east and 
 south, and extending in imposing magnificence 
 in a south-west direction, terminate with a view 
 of the cleft-side of Avalanche Hill, and the dis- 
 tant summit of Moorkooty's towering peak. 
 
 " The style of the edifice being plain go- 
 thic, harmonizes well with the natural scenery 
 around it, and notwithstanding all the difficul- 
 ties which attend the erection of buildings, in- 
 tended to be lasting, on the Neilgherries, 1 
 have no fears for the duration of this church. 
 The foundations have been so deeply laid, the 
 materials of the superstructure have had so 
 much time to settle and harden, and the super- 
 structure has been so well arranged by the en- 
 gineer, Capt. Underwood, that we may expect 
 it will last for ages, a monument to the Majesty
 
 AND NE1LGHERRY HILLS. (J7 
 
 of God, as well when he sits pavilioned in 
 clouds, rolling the thunders, and flashing the 
 lightnings of mount Sinai, as when he descends 
 in the glory of his light, and with healing on 
 his wings, upon the holy hill of Sion. Here 
 the true worshipper of nature's God, who has 
 with Lord Bacon ' sought him in the courts, 
 the fields and gardens,' will have an opportu- 
 nity of ' finding him in his temple,' and those 
 who have been less mindful of their Creator in 
 the days of their youth, will be here awakened 
 by a sense of gratitude for renovated health, to 
 a spirit of devotion and piety, to the great Giver 
 of this and every other blessing. 
 
 " After the usual ceremony of consecration, 
 the Bishop dedicated the church to Saint Ste- 
 phan, and preached an admirable sermon from 
 a most appropriate text, Isaiah xxxv. 1 . ' The 
 wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad 
 for them, and the desert shall rejoice and blos- 
 som as the rose.' 
 
 " After observing in the introduction upon 
 the prophet's usual custom of representing 
 spiritual blessings by natural emblems, the 
 Bishop thus proceeded : - 
 
 F 2
 
 68 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 " ' Whilst we see the natural wilderness 
 blooming around us ; the valleys, till lately aban- 
 doned to solitude and desolation, teeming now 
 with life, and in certain progress towards that 
 time when they shall stand so thick with corn, 
 that they shall laugh and sing : when we feel 
 a delight in the changes thus taking place 
 around us, and rejoice that the wilderness is 
 becoming a fruitful field, let us not fail to turn 
 our thoughts to that cheerless moral desert, 
 where no salutary plant takes root, no verdure 
 quickens, where ignorance the most appalling, 
 prejudices the most deadly, superstitions the 
 foulest and most degrading, hold the spirits of 
 millions in dreadful subjection, withering all 
 that would be for good, fostering into pernicious 
 luxuriance all that is evil. Men suppose that 
 to unfold the truth and to establish the prin- 
 ciples of the gospel, is to be considered as ex- 
 clusively the duty of a certain class of men 
 who have prepared themselves, or been selected 
 for that service, whilst ordinary Christians are 
 exempt or precluded from engaging in it. Now 
 the truth really is that in this land of heathen 
 darkness every Christian may be, nay more, if
 
 AND NE1LG KERRY HILLS. QQ 
 
 he live in any way up to his profession, must 
 be a missionary. When our blessed Lord bade 
 his disciples regard themselves as the salt of the 
 earth, the light of the world, a city set upon a 
 hill, was it, can we suppose, to encourage in 
 them any feelings of undue elation and confi- 
 dence ? Must it not rather have been said to 
 bring home to their hearts, a full sense of their 
 responsibility by shewing them what they ought 
 to be, and what was expected from them ? 
 
 " ' In the same way we would now address 
 
 all who profess and call themselves Christians, 
 
 the minutest circumstances of whose conduct 
 
 are liable to be noted and censured. Let the 
 
 heathen see us living the life of faith : let them 
 
 be taught to understand that the principle which 
 
 animates our social, and guides our political, 
 
 institutions, is to glorify God by doing good 
 
 to men, and the preacher's task will be easy. 
 
 Men will not rest till they understand what that 
 
 belief is, which issues in such practice. When 
 
 they have tasted, and delighted in that river 
 
 which flows by the city of our God, their desire 
 
 will be to discover the fountains from which it 
 
 springs.'
 
 70 FALLS OF THE CAyERY 
 
 " Then in conclusion he observed ; * It is no 
 light thing that we are here gathered together 
 in the sight of God, and in his name have con- 
 secrated this edifice, which the wise foresight 
 of our rulers has munificently provided for us. 
 It is no light thing that we are sharers in this 
 great privilege, and that by our voices, sup- 
 plications and giving of thanks have been offer- 
 ed up for the first time amidst these mountains 
 according to the Apostle's injunction. 
 
 " ' To those amongst us who know what spi- 
 ritual experience is, it will be a day much to be 
 remembered ; and even the light-minded and 
 careless, those who have never thought at all, 
 and have never thought to any purpose on 
 the subject of their eternal interest, cannot be 
 wholly unimpressed. 
 
 " ' All external circumstances concur to force 
 upon your minds lessons of awful import. 
 When you look up to the munificence of nature 
 as it is spread around you in such fair profu- 
 sion, can you refuse to lift up your thoughts to 
 the God of nature, the High and Holy One 
 that inhabiteth eternity ? or will you refuse to 
 receive the Revelation which he has made of
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 71 
 
 himself in the person of the Saviour, who left 
 the right hand of the Majesty on High, and 
 came in the likeness of man, that he might re- 
 concile you to himself by his blood ?' ' 
 
 Since the consecration, bells have been add- 
 ed to the church, and the congregation wind- 
 ing their way at their ease in the middle of the 
 day, some on foot, others in carriages and some 
 on horses, in the llth degree of the torrid zone, 
 was a heart-cheering sight amidst mountains 
 and valleys which never before "smiled when a 
 sabbath appeared." 
 
 The interior decoration of the church is in 
 harmony with the exterior, and the painted 
 glass windows, backed by the green mountain 
 side, shed upon the altar that cheerful light 
 which best illustrates the true character of the 
 religion it represents. 
 
 Not far distant from the church is a noble 
 building erected under the superintendence of 
 Capt. J. Underwood for a school, partly by 
 subscription, but chiefly out of the funds of the 
 Missionary Society. But to the labors of the 
 highly-gifted and excellent Archdeacon of Ma- 
 dras, the Rev. Thomas Robinson, the parent
 
 72 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 institution is largely indebted, for the aid and 
 encouragement that has been obtained for this 
 establishment ; and it is upon so large a scale as 
 to be capable of affording accommodation to 
 numerous scholars. The minister, Mr. More- 
 wood, who has charge of the school, has been 
 very happily selected, and he has besides well 
 performed the church duty since the death of 
 the Rev. Mr. Sawyer, who, upon the recom- 
 mendation of the Bishop, was first appointed to 
 this office. 
 
 The melancholy circumstances which led to 
 his death, should be a warning to those, who 
 however strong, (and there were few persons 
 more so than this excellent man,) from making 
 incautious tours from the Hills into the low 
 country. An illness contracted in the heat of 
 Travancore produced an organic complaint, to 
 which an immediate return to the Hills was pe- 
 culiarly unfavourable, for the pores being ob- 
 structed by the cold, and the digestive powers 
 being called into greater action, increased the 
 inflammation, which had already begun, and in a 
 few days Mr. S. sunk under its violence. Having 
 contracted the disease, it had been better if he
 
 AND NEILG KERRY HILLS. 73 
 
 had remained in the low country, or had gone 
 to sea until it had subsided ; and then the bra- 
 cing air and purifying breeze of the mountains 
 would have speedily restored his health and 
 strength . 
 
 Other instances have obviously led to the 
 same conclusion, and taught us, that when or- 
 ganic complaints and inflammatory symptoms 
 are present, the invalid ought not to be sent to 
 the Neilgherries, unless he can go by a sea- voy- 
 age ; which is the surest remedy. 
 
 But a much wiser course would be for him 
 to go at once to the Cape of Good Hope, before 
 nature be exhausted, or the disease deeply seat- 
 ed. I can assure the Indian invalid, from 
 recent experience, that that fine climate and 
 colony abounds in every convenience and com- 
 fort, and will if any means can, short of a voy- 
 age to Europe, " restore eluding health," and 
 again light his fading eye. Besides a profusion 
 of European vegetables, fruits and excellent 
 food, the carriages and horses are of the best 
 description, and good gigs and chariots, and 
 even a coach-and-four may be hired with dri-
 
 74 FALLS OF THE C A VERY 
 
 vers that are qualified by art to be enrolled in 
 the Four-in-hand Club of London. 
 
 I have stated in a former page my intention 
 to offer some further observations on the actual 
 state of the two principal Passes, and I will 
 now do so. 
 
 In June last, the inhabitants of the low coun- 
 tries brought fish and other supplies up the 
 Khoondah Pass to the pioneers ; and as this in- 
 valuable corps was to resume its labors in No- 
 vember, the road is no doubt finished and the 
 invalid from Bombay, or Calcutta, or Madras, 
 if landed at Calicut, will experience no incon- 
 venience in reaching Oatacamund. A good 
 bungalow has been erected half-way between 
 the top of the pass and Oatacamund, near the 
 Avalanche Hill, amidst some of the most beau- 
 tiful scenery on the Hills, and here two or three 
 families may remain and recruit themselves at 
 their ease, with abundant supplies of every kind 
 procurable from Oatacamund. But from the 
 moment the summit is reached, the climate is 
 perfect, except during the falling of the mon- 
 soon. This begins early in the middle of June,
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 75 
 
 and ends in September, and the Khoondahs 
 would not then be habitable from the violence 
 of the rains ; nor can ships then safely ap- 
 proach the Malabar coast. 
 
 When the rains have subsided, the western 
 breeze comes up from the sea, breathing health 
 and fragrance as it passes up the Ghaut ; and 
 it is a remarkable circumstance that, during the 
 months in which the pioneers were working on 
 it, from December to the end of May, there 
 was no fever or sickness of any kind amongst 
 them. The order published by the Governor, 
 after his inspecting of the Ghaut in June last, 
 describes so particularly its position and actual 
 state, as to render any further observation un- 
 necessary. 
 
 The Coonoor Pass on the opposite side, is now 
 nearly completed, and in a short time these 
 mountains will be equally accessible from the 
 eastern and western coasts. The only precau- 
 tion that will then be necessary will be, to 
 restrain those who have important duties to per- 
 form elsewhere, and are in a state of health to 
 perform them, from staying too long on the Hills, 
 and thus depriving those of their fellow-servants
 
 76 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 and comrades, whose health has given way, 
 from flying to them for relief before the diseases 
 of India, liver and dysentery, have made a fatal 
 progress. The regulations that maybe required 
 for the attainment of the purpose, will be of 
 course established and carried into execution 
 by the local government. 
 
 With this precaution, the discovery and set- 
 tlement of the Neilgherries will be an unquali- 
 fied good to the European and East- India com- 
 munities of every presidency ; and it will be 
 for the government at home to determine in what 
 degree it shall be extended to the British troops. 
 I am sure that no man can hear of, or look at 
 the mournful sufferings and returns of two of his 
 Majesty's noble regiments (the 45th and 54th) 
 during the last year, without compassion for the 
 officers and men ; nor without lamenting that 
 there had not been barracks, where one, at least, 
 of these suffering regiments might have gained 
 health and strength upon the Neilgherries, in- 
 stead of being wasted, or as Dr. Baikie well 
 expresses in his reports, " decimated," aye, 
 more than decimated, by disease on the plains 
 below.
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 77 
 
 For every military purpose of keeping the 
 country in subjection, there is no position, I 
 should imagine, more favorable, now that the 
 access to the eastern and western coasts have 
 been rendered easy, even to loaded bullocks and 
 bandies. I trust therefore that the time has 
 now arrived, when the authorities at home may 
 feel it expedient to provide for the preservation 
 and enjoyment of the health of some of his 
 Majesty's regiments in this, the fairest por- 
 tion of the British empire in India. Nothing 
 would give me greater satisfaction than to hear 
 that the " Old Wiltshire Springers," the happy 
 regiment to which I belong, but which I fear, 
 disease contracted in the plains of India will 
 prevent me ever again joining, had been ordered 
 to the Neilgherries. 
 
 A mistaken notion has prevailed with some 
 persons, that the climate of these Hills does not 
 contribute to the permanent re-establishment of 
 health. This is a delusion contradicted by the 
 evidence of facts in the case of every patient 
 who has been properly sent there. Where there 
 is inflammation of the liver, or serious organic 
 affections, perfect quiet in the low country, or
 
 78 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 a voyage to sea, are previously necessary. But 
 for the recovery of lost strength, or the effectual 
 and lasting removal of debility, from whatever 
 
 cause arising, and for the continued preservation 
 
 / / ' ' 
 
 of health, there is no place in India, say all those 
 
 who have had any experience of the Neilgher- 
 ries, that can be compared with them, and per- 
 haps, no part of the world, for the whole period 
 
 of the year. 
 
 ?<& J * fi u . //f 
 
 During the only unpleasant time at Oataca- 
 
 mund, from June to August, Kotagherry, Dim- 
 hutty, and Coonoor, will prove an agreeable 
 change ; and as there are now houses at Dim- 
 hutty free of expense, and at Kotagherry upon 
 moderate terms, nothing is wanting but better 
 bazars, for the perfect enjoyment of an invalid, 
 to whom the cold of Oatacamund is not ac- 
 ceptable. 
 
 I ought at the same time to observe, that to 
 many persons in health, the intervals between 
 the showers at Oatacamund are most enjoyable, 
 and if a good fire is kept up, of some of the 
 excellent burning wood, which the forests 
 abundantly supply, no inconvenience is felt
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 79 
 
 from the utmost violence of the western mon- 
 soon. 
 
 The truth of what I have here stated regard- 
 ing the climate of the Hills, the reader will 
 find in the Appendix abundantly established 
 by Extracts of Reports and Returns sent in by 
 Dr. Baikie, the Superintending Medical Officer 
 on the Neilgherries ; and they amply confirm 
 all the previous Reports.
 
 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 THE different important events connected with 
 nearly all the following views having been so 
 often and so profusely detailed by various 
 writers ; and the country en route being so 
 scanty in pictorial interest, except what I have 
 selected, I shall not encumber my readers with 
 thrice-told tales of sieges or of hard-fought- 
 battles, or with a tedious description of the 
 sandy and dried-up plains of the Carnatic, or 
 of the arid and wild appearance of the country 
 between the Pass of Nakanairy and Bangalore, 
 but shall merely add to each drawing a brief 
 explanation of the place it is intended to re- 
 present. 
 
 I have been induced to add these views, 
 from the idea that there are many persons both 
 in India and at home, who will feel pleasure,
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. g [ 
 
 perhaps, in viewing either some or all, as places 
 familiar to them, and probably connected with 
 their early days when every thing 
 
 " To them did seem 
 " Apparelled in celestial light, 
 " The glory and freshness of a dream." 
 
 WORDSWORTH. 
 
 G
 
 82 FALLS OF THE CAVEKY. 
 
 POONAMALLEE. 
 
 Let me now present my readers to Poona- 
 mallee, a Depot for King's Troops, thirteen 
 miles from Madras. 
 
 I shall not easily forget my first march in 
 India to this cantonment, with a detachment of 
 my regiment. Just landed from a long voyage, 
 having been cooped up for five months on ship- 
 board, which, as Dr. Johnson says, is worse than 
 a prison, or in other words, a prison with the 
 danger of being drowned, we were marched off 
 at sun-set, on one of those Indian nights when 
 not a leaf is stirring, and nothing is seen abroad 
 but the fire-flies crowding on the bushes, nor 
 heard, save the loud croaking of myriads of frogs, 
 enjoying themselves in the stillness of the night 
 on the borders of some neighbouring tank. 
 
 At that time the road being almost knee-deep 
 in sand, and suffering as I did under a con- 
 siderable degree of thirst, I found this march 
 sufficiently tiresome not to be easily effaced
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. Q3 
 
 from one's memory, as my first entr6 on the 
 Eastern stage. 
 
 Poonamallee consists of a fort, containing 
 hospitals and government stores ; barracks 
 capable of holding a regiment, with officers' 
 quarters, which will not impress the officer, who 
 takes up his abode there, on his first arrival in 
 India, with any favorable idea of his oriental 
 prospects ; and should he value his comfort, I 
 would advise him to join his corps, especially if 
 at Bangalore, as soon as possible, where he can 
 live and enjoy his " otium cum dignitate" in 
 his own bungalow. 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 G 2
 
 84 FALLS OF THE C A VERY 
 
 VELLORE. 
 
 After leaving Poonamallee, the country is any- 
 thing but interesting to the man who is an admirer 
 of landscape beauty, till reaching the extensive 
 fertile valley in which Vellore stands, surrounded 
 
 r 
 
 by an amphitheatre of mountains of every shape. 
 
 The annexed view was taken from Cautpaudy, 
 on the new line of road leading from Madras to 
 Bangalore, the route always taken now by mili- 
 tary parties, and often preferred by travellers, 
 as the best, and more direct than that which 
 runs through Vellore. 
 
 But this town has the attraction of an exten- 
 sive cantonment, and a fort of neat construction, 
 built by the Mahrattas about 250 years since ; 
 its ditch, which is 200 feet wide, and from 15 to 
 20 feet deep, contains numerous alligators. In 
 1781 its small garrison, under Col. Lang, made 
 a gallant resistance to Hyder's Mysorean troops, 
 and it has since been rendered memorable in 
 Anglo-Indian history, as the place where Tip-
 
 

 
 AND NE1LGHERRY HILLS. 35 
 
 poo's two sons were confined, and for the mutiny 
 which occurred there before they were removed 
 to Calcutta. The King of Candy, who died last 
 year, was also a prisoner there for many years. 
 Immediately in rear of the town, is a range of 
 acclivitous hills, three of which are surmounted 
 by old stone forts, commanding the place. In 
 the accompanying sketch, the situation of the 
 town is known by the appearance of a line of 
 mist which generally seems in the distance to 
 over-hang it, arising from the river Palaur, which 
 in the dry season presents only a bed of sand, 
 but during the rains, a broad and deep stream 
 rushes along with such velocity, and comes down 
 so suddenly, that not long ago a schoolmaster, 
 who was passing with his scholars, was over- 
 taken in the middle of the river at the moment 
 of its descent, and the whole perished.
 
 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 LAULPETT. 
 
 From Vellore, or its neighbourhood, the coun- 
 try assumes a more varied appearance, and about 
 five miles from the foot of the Pass of Naka- 
 nairy is the village of Laulpett, on the confines 
 of which are some acres of beautiful greensward, 
 shaded by heavy -foliaged tamarind-trees, scat- 
 tered here and there. Here troops on the march 
 generally encamp, but the traveller can have 
 the comfort of a good bungalow. In the centre 
 of the village is a Mausoleum and Mosque built 
 in neat style by a rich Mussel man merchant of 
 Madras, containing the remains of some of his 
 family. 
 
 A mile to the north of Laulpet, is Sautghur, 
 a ruined fort surrounded by commanding craggy 
 hills ; and immediately beyond the town, is an 
 extensive orange garden, where 
 
 " The citron and the piercing lime, 
 
 With the deep orange, glowing through the green, 
 " Their lighter glories blend." 
 
 THOMSON.
 
 a
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 37 
 
 Should the traveller remain the day in this 
 town, he will find the shady walks of these gar- 
 dens a pleasant and cool retreat, having an 
 abundance of delicious oranges to allay the thirst, 
 which is so constant an attendant in tropical cli- 
 mates, in former times quenched by the well 
 known potation Sangoree, and now too often 
 superseded by " brandy-panee." The road 
 from Laulpett passes through a pretty and varie- 
 gated country, and at the bottom of the Pass a 
 bright and peaceful stream murmurs on its way 
 through banks clothed with woods. The ascent 
 to the summit of the ghaut, though not very ro- 
 mantic, can claim the advantage of some exten- 
 sive views. The road, from being constantly 
 inspected, is in good order, though steep in some 
 places for carriages and loaded bullocks. 
 
 At the very top of the pass, where the tra- 
 veller enters the Mysore province, is a good 
 bungalow, with an adjoining village. The 
 country is here open and covered for some 
 miles with low jungle. In the neighbourhood 
 the sportsman will meet with partridge, jungle 
 cock, hares, and occasionally cheetas. 
 
 After the heat of the Carnatic, the climate
 
 88 FALLS OF THE C A VERY 
 
 of the Mysore is a most pleasing change, and 
 at night a good blanket is found to be very 
 agreeable. 
 
 Traveller ! the quicker you now can pass 
 over the ground to Bangalore, the better for 
 yourself, and the less cause you will have to 
 complain of ennui. The road lies through a 
 flat country, though sometimes gently undula- 
 ting : scarcely a tree is there to be seen except 
 in solitary topes widely scattered, or a row of 
 cocoa-nut trees lining the street of some miser- 
 able-looking village. Every where are to be 
 seen large masses of bluff rocks, often heaped 
 together in the most extraordinary confusion. 
 The largest place on the road is Colar, where is 
 the Mausoleum of Hyder Ally's mother. 
 
 At Bangalore let not the traveller expect to 
 find a public bungalow, or within less than fif- 
 teen miles of it on the Madras side, and nine 
 on that of Mvsore.
 
 < 
 
 * I
 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 
 
 BANGALORE. 
 
 The large cantonment of Bangalore occupies 
 the highest ground in the Balaghaut or Table- 
 land of the Southern Peninsula of India, being 
 3000 feet above the level of the sea. The cli- 
 mate is generally liked, and for a regiment it is 
 a station devoutly to be wished for. But owing 
 to a cool wind that frequently blows, and a 
 clouded sky, the unwary new-comer is too often 
 induced to expose himself: let him, however, 
 take advice ere he feels sundry twinges in his 
 hepatic region, and not allow the treacherous 
 rays of the sun to shine upon him unnecessa- 
 rily. From October to March the climate is 
 cool, and often extremely cold in the mornings 
 and evenings, and I may safely say that for the 
 whole year, the temperature is pleasant. The 
 only period, when the heat is sometimes found 
 rather oppressive is from March to August, but 
 even then it cannot be compared to that of the 
 low country, the thermometer for the most part
 
 90 FALLS OF THE C A VERY 
 
 of the year ranging from 74 to 80, of Fahren- 
 heit. The bungalows in this cantonment are 
 good, and moderate in rent. In the neighbour- 
 hood Persian and Arab merchants have esta- 
 blished a large dep6t for horses of all casts and 
 prices, and a good judge of such cattle may 
 sometimes make very fortunate hits in his pur- 
 chases. 
 
 The garrison of Bangalore consists of a King's 
 Cavalry regiment and another of Infantry, one 
 Native Cavalry, and three Native Infantry, Ar- 
 tillery, &c. 
 
 Of the annexed views little need be said, 
 as they will explain themselves. One is taken 
 from the side of the Olsoor Tank, in the vi- 
 cinity of the native cavalry lines ; the most 
 conspicuous objects in it are the barracks of 
 the two King's corps. The sketch of the 
 officers' burial ground, which is too well filled 
 with tombs and monuments to the departed, 
 was taken from the cavalry brigade ground. 
 The two high pillar-like monuments are erected 
 to the memory of some officers of his Majesty's 
 13th Light Dragoons. This gallant corps, so dis- 
 tinguished at the battle of Albuera, and other
 
 F 
 
 |S1 '^ 
 
 ri
 
 AND NE1LGHERRY HILLS. 
 
 places in the Peninsula, has been stationed at 
 Bangalore since the year 1819. 
 
 The fort and native town of Bangalore are 
 about two miles from the cantonment, and were 
 taken by storm on the 21st of March, 1791, 
 by the English army under Lord Cornwallis. 
 Hyder Ally's palace in the Fort is still in good 
 repair, and occupied by Major-Gen. Hawker, 
 commanding the division. A large wheel for 
 drawing water is yet existing in an adjoining 
 garden, at which Hyder compelled his prison- 
 ers to work, and among them were at one time 
 two officers, afterwards British generals. Ban- 
 galore is reckoned a gay station for the mili- 
 tary, and can boast of good assembly rooms, 
 with a theatre, where the inhabitants are often 
 entertained by the performances of the ama- 
 teurs ; and twice a-year the garrison is en- 
 livened by well contested races.
 
 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 CLOSEPETT. 
 
 The last view of any interest on this route to 
 the Falls of the Cavery and Neilgherry Hills, is 
 one of the town of Closepett, about thirty miles 
 from Bangalore ; it bears the name of Sir Barry 
 Close, who was appointed resident of the My- 
 sore after the fall of Seringapatam, having been 
 previously adjutant-general of the Madras army, 
 and distinguished as much for his military as 
 for his diplomatic talents. His acquirements 
 as an oriental scholar were of the first order, 
 and it was a common observation of the higher 
 class of the natives, who knew him, that his 
 pronunciation of the Persian and Hindoostanee 
 languages was so perfect, that if speaking from 
 behind a curtain, it would be impossible to re- 
 cognize him as an European. Not far from 
 hence is the pillar which bears the name of 
 the intimate friend of Sir Barry Close, Mr. 
 Josiah Webbe, a man whose exalted qualities 
 and public services would have done honor to 
 the best days of Greece or Rome, as is well

 
 AND NEILGHERRY HILLS. 93 
 
 expressed on the public monument raised to 
 his memory in Fort St George. These were 
 the radiant stars of that constellation of talent, 
 by which the presidency of Madras was distin- 
 guished during the administration of Lord Clive, 
 the remembrance of whose government will go 
 down with unfading honor to posterity, a fit 
 seqeul to the glorious services of his illustrious 
 father. 
 
 The sloping ground on which Closepett is 
 built, runs down to the river Arkavutty, over 
 which is an excellent bridge of fifteen arches. 
 On an opposite eminence is the public bunga- 
 low, a most commodious one, and a pleasant 
 retreat for a week or two, for persons from 
 Bangalore. On all sides of the plain in which 
 this town stands, are hills of various shapes ; 
 and among them, several Ghurries or Droogs, 
 or hill-forts, of former days, are conspicuous, 
 particularly that of Ramghurry. At the foot of 
 the hills an almost impenetrable jungle com- 
 mences, extending for many miles in every di- 
 rection, and infested by wild animals of various 
 kinds, which often afford amusement to the 
 lovers of oriental sporting.
 
 94 FALLS OF THE CAVERY 
 
 Trusting now that my readers will find some- 
 thing in these sketches, that may prove both 
 useful and interesting, I' bid them adieu. In 
 writing these pages I had two objects in view ; 
 one, of beguiling the tedious hours of a long sea- 
 voyage of nearly five months ; the other of 
 giving to my friends and the public of India, all 
 the information that is necessary concerning a 
 portion of that country, of the beauties and ad- 
 vantages of which, so little is known either to 
 the community in India, or to the government 
 at home. 
 
 The first object I have effectually attained ; 
 and I hope, at some future period, to hear that 
 my endeavours in the second have not been 
 wholly unsuccessful.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ROUTE FROM MADRAS TO BANGALORE. 
 THE NEW ROAD. 
 
 (Places that have B. opposite, have a Bungalow.) 
 
 To Miles. 
 
 Poonaraallee 13 
 
 B. Nellatoor 1C 
 
 B. Perimbaucum 7 
 
 B. Teereemapoor . . . . . 14 
 
 B. Alleepaukum 10 
 
 B. Alleecolum . . . . . . 11 
 
 B. Tirulalum 8 
 
 B. Laitery Fort 14 
 
 B. Gorialtum 17 
 
 B. Laulpett 8
 
 9G APPENDIX. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 B. Nakanairy (top of pass) ... 10 
 
 B. Veucatagherry ..... 7 
 
 B. Baitnumgalum 11 
 
 B. Colar 17 
 
 B. Narsapoor 9 
 
 B. Ooscottah 15 
 
 Bangalore 16 
 
 Total 208 
 
 This is the best route from Madras to Bangalore. The 
 other route is by Vellore but there is no public 
 bungalow there, and the next stage, Policonda, 
 has a very bad one besides the road is not so 
 good, and the river has to be twice crossed, which 
 in the wet season is not always feasible.
 
 APPENDIX. 97 
 
 THREE ROUTES FROM BANGALORE TO GOONDULPETT, 
 Via THE FALLS OF THE CAVERY. 
 
 From Bangalore to Miles. Mysore Coss. 
 
 Galagamutty .... 10| or 3 
 
 Aurohully 9 3 
 
 Kankanhully . . . . 10 3| 
 
 Sunnahnlly 11 3| 
 
 Halagoor 1\ 2% 
 
 Malavelly 10 3| 
 
 B. Bulkawaddy . . . . 11 3| 
 
 B. Island of Sivasamoodrum . 3 ,, 1 
 
 Suttygaul 3 1 
 
 Colligaul "..... 10 3| 
 
 Kempapoor .... 9 3 
 
 Arracottara or Shumraz-nuggar 10 3| 
 
 Luckoor 10| ,, 3g 
 
 B. Goondulpett .... 7\ 2J 
 
 Total 122 40 
 
 H
 
 98 APPENDIX. 
 
 DIRECT ROAD FROM OSSOOR TO KANKANHULLY. 
 
 From Ossoor to Miles. Coss. 
 
 Anicul 6 or 2 
 
 Murlawaddy . . . . 10J 3| 
 Kankanhully .... 7| 2J 
 
 Total 24 8 
 
 FROM BANGALORE, Via CHEUNAPATAM. THE BEST 
 ROUTE. 
 
 Bangalore to Miles. 
 
 B. Kingairy 7 
 
 B. Bidedee 12 
 
 B. Closepett *7 
 
 B. Cheunapatam 6 
 
 B. Muddoor 12 
 
 Malavelly (Choultry) . . . .16 
 
 B. Bulkawaddy 12 
 
 B. Sivasamoodrum 3 
 
 Total 75
 
 APPENDIX. 99 
 
 CANNANORE ROUTE. 
 
 The communication with Cannanore and the Neil- 
 gherries, passes through Wynaud. On leaving Oataca- 
 mund, the road to the westward lies over low, undulat- 
 ing, verdant heights, from which several clear streams de- 
 scend, and are crossed between Oatacamund and the 
 Pykarry river, a distance of ten miles. During the dry 
 weather, this river may be crossed by a bed of rocks, 
 but there is a ferry boat in a deep part of the stream for 
 carriages, horses, and palankeens. This road is good 
 for a carriage. From the Pykarry, the road ascends, 
 leaving the river on the right, in a succession of ascents 
 and descents, and rises to the summit of the Nidiwuttum 
 ghaut, where is an excellent bungalow. The descent 
 for about 1J mile, is more steep than the lower part. 
 It then proceeds through rather an open forest, crossing 
 two large streams by stone causeways, made by the 
 pioneers, to Goodaloor three miles further. Here is a 
 good bazaar and tolerable bungalow. The road from 
 Goodaloor is almost west, the surface not very uneven, 
 but close and hot from the quantity of bamboos on the 
 
 road-side, up to the Paudy river, the bed of which is 
 
 H 2
 
 100 APPENDIX. 
 
 very rocky. From thence to Davilla, a village situated 
 beautifully in a cultivated valley. Thence, after cross- 
 ing two large rivulets, it ascends very steeply to Nelly- 
 allnm Cutchery, and then north-west to Shirleote, 
 a populous village, and a beautiful situation. The 
 road then runs over a level surface, with cultivation 
 on both sides, to a small Pagoda and tank on the left; 
 from thence it assumes a north-west course to a redoubt 
 commonly called Sultan's Battery, but better-known in 
 the country as Gunneyputty-wuttum. The road from 
 Tamburcherry Pass, via Goondulpet to Mysore, crosses 
 here. From this to Manantoddy, the road is excellent, 
 and the distances of the whole are as follows ; 
 
 From Oatacamund to the Miles. 
 
 Pyekarry River 10 
 
 B. Top of the Pass 9 
 
 B. Goodaloor 4 
 
 Davilla 8 
 
 Nellyallum 4 
 
 Shirleote 8 
 
 Gunneyputty-wuttum . . 6 
 
 Panamurnacottah .... 16 
 
 B. Manantoddy ...... 9
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Perrar 12 
 
 Nuddee Berunjud .... 6 
 
 Canute 8 
 
 Atapumboo 16 
 
 Calicut 14 
 
 Total 127* 
 
 ROUTE FROM OATACAMUND TO CALICUT, BY THE NEW 
 KHOONDAH PASS. 
 
 Oatacamund to Miles. 
 
 The Bungalow across the river at 
 
 the bottom of Avalanche Hill . 16 
 B. The top of the Khoondah Pass . . 14 
 
 The Pass 7 
 
 Wundoor . . . . . .12 
 
 Nellumboor 6 
 
 Mombutunguddy ..... 5 7 
 
 Edamauguddy 35 
 
 B. Arricode 91 
 
 Calicut 27 1 
 
 Total 100 6
 
 102 APPENDIX. 
 
 MR. SULLIVAN'S LETTER. 
 
 Neilgherries, March 15, 1828. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 I hasten to offer my sincere thanks for 
 your kind and considerate letter. 
 
 Having long endeavoured, but with little success, to 
 impress upon the minds of your predecessors the great 
 advantages which might be derived from the Neilgher- 
 ries, it was with unmixed satisfaction that I saw the 
 subject so warmly and so promptly taken up by 
 yourself. I had ventured to suggest the appointment 
 of a commanding officer, who should exercise controul 
 over his juniors, and take upon himself much of the duty 
 which had devolved upon me. I had repeatedly urged 
 the experience of establishing an hospital for European 
 soldiers and in conversation with officers of rank, I 
 had gone the length of stating my opinion, that as with 
 reference to the great military stations of Bangalore, 
 Trichinopoly, Quilon, Cannanore and Belgaum, the 
 Neilgherries might be considered almost as the centre
 
 APPENDIX. 103 
 
 of a circle, it would be expedient to make them a ge- 
 neral depot for European troops. I venture to state 
 these facts to show that without the greatest inconsis- 
 tency, I could do no other than enter most cordially into 
 your benevolent views. I have always considered that 
 the judicious expenditure of thousands here, would lead 
 to the saving of lacs. Duty and inclination equally im- 
 pelled me to lend my zealous assistance to the further- 
 ance of the plans of government. It was therefore with 
 feelings unusually painful, that I heard myself described 
 as disaffected towards them, and as inclined to throw 
 obstacles in the way of their execution. That these 
 feelings were quite warranted, is matter of notoriety in 
 the society here. I felt and acted most cordially towards 
 the commanding officer, and should have been too hap- 
 py, had that gentleman met me in the same spirit. 
 
 I do earnestly assure you that nothing that has passed, 
 will in the slightest degree abate my zeal for the service. 
 
 I would readily have exchanged opinions with Major 
 Kelso on the subject of the Bazars, if he had given me 
 an opportunity of doing so ; but as the work was com- 
 menced without my knowledge, and as the commanding 
 officer had expressed his determination to continue it, in 
 spite of the civil authorities, I felt satisfied that any
 
 104 APPENDIX. 
 
 interference of mine would only serve to widen the 
 breach. I might with safety appeal to those gentlemen 
 who are most closely associated by Major Kelso, and 
 who have no kind feelings towards me, to say whether 
 this would not have been the consequence of any attempt 
 on my part to enter into personal explanations with 
 that gentleman. You will, I think, see that there is an 
 unfriendly disposition towards me, in the minds of the 
 authorities who are employed in superintending the works 
 from a correspondence with the superintending engineer, 
 which, to prevent misapprehension, I am obliged to for- 
 ward to the Government. The prevalence of cholera up 
 to the very tops of the passes has suspended our usual 
 intercourse with the low-country, and interfered with our 
 supplies. Distress has been the consequence, and it is 
 intended, I am afraid, to throw the blame upon me. But 
 I must again assure you that however personally^ I may 
 regret these bickerings, they will not in the slightest 
 degree be permitted to interfere with my public conduct. 
 When I have the misfortune to differ in opinion with 
 the military authorities, I must state my reasons, but 
 I shall studiously avoid every occasion of difference. 
 
 The season is so much advanced, that I fear little can 
 be done this year. I would have reccommended the
 
 APPENDIX. 105 
 
 employment of all establishments upon two of the bunga- 
 lows, leaving the Bazaar as an after object, because the . 
 demands for accommodation are unceasing, and there 
 is no immediate want of a Bazaar. 
 
 The house rented by Government from me contains 
 thirteen rooms : it was proposed to give each officer one 
 room, and the use of the public room. This was the 
 scale of accommodation adopted when Capt. Dun's house 
 was purchased, and which I followed. By the present 
 arrangement, each officer has, I believe, two rooms, 
 which limits the accommodation to six officers. 
 
 The fear of burdening the government with the ex- 
 pense of keeping up the garden without an adequate 
 object, alone deterred me from making it over with the 
 house, and it is now nearly surrounded by the huts of 
 the public Coolies, and Dooly bearers, and almost faced 
 by the Bazaar. I could never with comfort make the 
 house the residence of my family. I had intended stating 
 these facts when a fit opportunity offered, and requesting 
 that Government would take the garden without any addi- 
 tional rent, but merely upon a prolonged lease, and with 
 the condition of keeping the garden up, and the house in 
 repair. The ground is so extensive, and the spot alto- 
 gether so favorable, that under judicious culture it might
 
 106 APPENDIX. 
 
 be made to yield a produce adequate to the supply of 
 the largest demand that can be made upon it. The 
 scale of this produce would, I imagine, cover the ex- 
 pense of the garden establishment, so that the salary of 
 a superintendant in the botanical branch would be the 
 only additional expense, if such an appointment should 
 be thought necessary. And as it appears to be the de- 
 cided opinion of professional men, that many drugs might 
 be cultivated here which are now imported from Europe 
 at a great expense, this extra charge might in all pro- 
 bability be more than covered. 
 
 I shall avail myself of your kind indulgence to offer 
 any suggestions that may occur to me on the general 
 subject of the Hills, begging you to believe that no 
 individual can feel so strong an interest in your benevo- 
 lent views as myself. 
 
 I have the honour to be 
 
 Dear Sir, with great respect, 
 Most faithfully yours, 
 (Signed) J. SULLIVAN. 
 
 The Right Hon. S. R. LUSHINGTON, 
 Governor of Madras.
 
 APPENDIX. 107 
 
 LETTER FROM DR. BAIKIE, SUPERINTENDING MEDICAL 
 OFFICER ON THE NEILGHERRIES, TO LIEUT.-COLONEL 
 MACLEAN. 
 
 Oatacamund, \sl August, 1832. 
 
 Sir; 
 
 In obedience to your desire, I have the honour to 
 forward the annexed extracts from a report of the Neil- 
 gherries, forwarded to the Medical Board in February 
 last. 
 
 The only additional observation which it appears ne- 
 cessary to make, is, that there is not a single disease 
 incident to the climate of the Hills, or which can be con- 
 sidered as originating on them. A vast majority of 
 those endemic or epidemic in other places, such as fever, 
 cholera, &c., being at once checked in their progress, 
 and modified in their results. 
 
 As it would only occupy the time of the committee 
 unnecessarily, to enter into what would become a purely 
 professional discussion on the effects of the climate on 
 diseases, or on constitutions impaired by a residence on 
 the low country, I conceive it will be sufficient to direct
 
 108 APPENDIX. 
 
 their attention to the results, and with that view I have 
 the honour to forward returns of the number of officers 
 and men actually cured and returned to their duty, by a 
 residence on the Hills, as far as can be shown from the 
 records. 
 
 I have the honour to be 
 Sir, &c. &c. 
 
 (Signed) ROBERT BAIKIE. M.D. 
 
 Superintending Medical Officer, 
 Neilgkerries. 
 
 To LIEUT. COL. MACLEAN, 
 President of the Committee, 
 Sue. fcc.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 109 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 .s 
 
 Q) *"" 
 
 - u2 
 
 > O) 
 
 8 3 
 
 4) <U 
 
 ** 
 
 i- O 
 
 rt O 
 it 
 
 ^3 0) 
 
 S| 
 
 """O O 
 
 i ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^2 
 s ^ 
 
 CO* 
 
 W P^ 
 O O5 
 W 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 tf 
 
 P 
 
 vw 
 o 
 
 
 
 J -S 
 
 PS 
 
 K 
 w 
 o 
 
 33 <u 
 
 
 1V.10J, 
 
 3^ 
 
 oo 
 
 cc 
 
 
 ainp^jj 
 
 _, * 
 
 
 
 eaiuog jo JaajQ 
 
 i i | 
 
 
 
 J30JQ 
 
 <N ; 
 
 
 
 -.mouinj, 
 
 - : 
 
 
 
 si^qd/fg 
 
 : 
 
 "3 
 
 
 niEjdg 
 
 - : 
 
 o 
 
 J-l 
 
 
 sisocoXqj 
 
 :<?< 
 
 -a 
 g 
 
 
 AjOIJDl.'BJ3J\[ 
 
 - : 
 
 2 
 
 
 peaq aqj jo jfanlaj 
 
 :-- 
 
 D 
 
 . 
 
 Ajiuesuj 
 
 i i * 
 
 
 r. 
 
 a3eqjjoai3jj 
 
 - : 
 
 
 *. 
 M 
 
 sip oqBdafi 
 
 /- 
 
 
 fl 
 
 aqoB-pBafj 
 
 - : 
 
 
 
 ptmoM loqs-ung 
 
 i < 
 
 
 
 BaoqiuouoQ 
 
 -> : 
 
 
 
 luatjiauffiui J9A9J; 
 
 JU9}1IU13'JJ J3A9J 
 
 * r-4 
 
 
 
 uiaqdjf J9A8J 
 
 - : 
 
 
 
 BaoqjJBtQ 
 
 -, : 
 
 
 
 AsdOJQ 
 
 ;^ 
 
 
 
 A'J9JU3SA'(J 
 
 CO i 
 
 
 
 jqSlS JO SS3UU1IQ 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 BtsdadsA"Q 
 
 - 2 
 
 
 
 ssaosqy 
 
 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 t-? 
 
 < 
 
 
 M 
 
 'S 
 
 c 
 
 bfi
 
 110 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 
 o ^a 
 
 5(2 
 
 S a 
 o % 
 
 o 5 . 
 
 <1 ^ 
 
 c ^ a- 
 
 o "^c o 
 
 o c 
 tfi o 
 
 ^ >^s 
 
 32 fl - 
 H-3 O S 
 
 H u - 
 W a; S 
 
 tf^-^ 
 3- S ^ 
 
 5li 
 |>- 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 CO 
 
 i 
 
 0> 
 
 1 
 
 60 
 C 
 
 co 
 
 .^ 
 
 o 
 
 d> 
 
 iJl 
 
 
 
 
 
 ! 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 (/! 
 
 i 
 
 a 
 
 H, 
 
 i 
 
 e 
 
 e 
 
 
 
 
 *O 
 o> 
 
 1 
 
 "8 
 a 
 
 a) 
 
 "3 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 B 
 
 i 
 
 a, 
 
 CD 
 
 ; 
 
 (9 
 
 So 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 men r 
 
 -a 
 o 
 
 _3 
 
 
 2 
 
 Ig 
 
 '53 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 T3 
 
 
 c- 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 n 
 
 1 1 
 
 3 
 
 g 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
 S> 
 13 
 
 ,0 
 
 'S 
 
 B) 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 "o 
 
 T3 
 V 
 
 o 
 
 J 
 
 s 
 &> 
 
 ivxox 
 
 t>i .asoocoTfS'* 1 ^ 00 ^ 00 
 
 ^co 
 
 CO 
 co 
 
 sninqjoog 
 
 : : : : r : - 1 r : i : ; 
 
 
 i < 
 
 snuistiBuinaq^ 
 
 
 CSl 
 
 3 
 
 SIS^IBJBJ 
 
 ::::::-::::: 
 
 : 
 
 cs> 
 
 siiBiid^d; 
 
 :::::::.::: 
 
 r i i 
 
 CN 
 
 BiiniBqiqdo 
 
 : r r r : - r : : : r r 
 
 
 rt 
 
 sdojpXjj 
 
 ........... ^_ 
 
 
 r-< 
 
 siiijBdajj 
 
 C-l ^(N *CS) * " *i iCSJCO I 
 
 ^ r 
 
 t^ 
 
 'liiua'jj siaqaj 
 jmusjaj suq3 J 
 
 '.'.'.&>'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 
 
 
 cs> 
 
 iO 
 
 BnupaoQ suq9j 
 
 
 : : 
 
 ^o 
 
 BisdadsA'(j 
 
 *BU3HI3S^(J 
 
 ' r i 
 O* * CO > "CO " O> i i CO * * < < 
 
 : : 
 
 1-H 
 
 00 
 
 B30qxIBl(J 
 
 ' i r <N i i (N I<N r r i 
 
 ~ : 
 
 o 
 
 
 ......COi '.... 
 
 rririir. '!!<>> 
 
 ~ : 
 
 >O 
 
 CO 
 
 UBquHrj ss3Dsq y 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 - 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 (U 
 
 'So 
 
 CD 
 
 
 
 . "|b ! .*5 . 
 
 t-JPS 30 
 
 ^ -5 6 -5 -5 -5 T3 -5 S ^ 
 coco^Hiocooo-*cs>a)j3 
 
 ~ H <N-*^f"*Tf>-O<OCO < <!w 
 
 | 
 
 !i-4 
 
 . 
 
 2rt 
 
 
 C 
 
 : w* 
 
 T3 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 T3 
 
 g 
 o 
 
 
 Mll '/! "^ 
 K i i <^} 
 
 T3 es 
 
 r^5? 

 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM A REPORT ON THE NEILGHERRIES, 
 FORWARDED TO THE MEDICAL BOARD, IN FEB. 1832. 
 
 " Upon the whole it may be confidently asserted that 
 the climate is one of the finest and most equable in the 
 world, being for the greater part of the year dry, bracing, 
 and exhilarating; that it is subject to no variations 
 which can injure the sound European constitution, while 
 its general condition is highly favorable to it ; and that 
 we are justified in concluding a priori, that it will be 
 found eminently beneficial in restoring to health and 
 strength those who have suffered from the high tem- 
 perature and moist atmosphere of the low country. 
 
 " We shall now proceed to examine the last position in 
 detail, taking experience for our guide. 
 
 " General Effects of the Climate on Healthy Indi- 
 viduals. 
 
 " 1st. The effects of the climate on residents, and par- 
 ticularly on children, are precisely those of the finest and 
 most temperate part of Europe. Children thrive in a 
 remarkable degree, having all that rosy complexion, and 
 healthy, lively appearance, which is seldom seen, except
 
 112 APPENDIX. 
 
 in the country-parts of Great Britain. They are sub- 
 ject to very few infantine complaints, and these when 
 they occur are much modified by the climate, being less 
 violent in their access, of shorter duration, the convales- 
 cence more rapid, arid the sequel less to be dreaded than 
 even in Europe. 
 
 " 2nd. On first ascending the Hills, many people ex- 
 perience a difficulty of respiration, much increased on 
 exertion, and only gradually disappearing on becoming 
 habituated to the climate ; this may be safely attributed 
 to the tenuity of the atmosphere, being analagous to 
 what is always experienced, though in a greater degree 
 in ascending lofty mountains, and is probably increased 
 by the augmented quantity of blood thrown on the in- 
 ternal organs, by the great and sudden change of tem- 
 perature. The difference of temperature between any 
 place, even in Mysore, and that of the first station on 
 the Hills, can hardly be calculated at less than 35 or 
 40 degrees; the thermometer at Goodaloor, at the foot 
 of the Hills, on the Mysore side, being seldom below 
 82 or 85, while at Pyekarry on the Hills, there are 
 few nights in which it does not descend below 48" or 45". 
 In ascending from the Coimbatoor side, the range is 
 probably greater.
 
 APPENDIX. 1[3 
 
 " It is is not unusual also for persons on their first ar- 
 rival, to complain of slight headaches and sleeplessness, 
 resulting probably from the same internal congestion ; 
 the digestion also does not always keep pace with the 
 increase of appetite produced by the sharp air and ad- 
 ditional exercise, particularly if the new-comer is se- 
 duced by the tempting array of vegetables usually 
 placed before him. 
 
 "These trifling inconveniences however soon disappear, 
 and with the most moderate degree of circumspection, 
 a healthy European becomes in the course of one or two 
 months perfectly equal to almost any degree of fatigue 
 or exposure ; exertion of either body or mind being 
 attended with none of that depressing languor and ex- 
 haustion so universal in the low country, but producing 
 on the contrary, that feeling of exhilaration and sere- 
 nity which is so justly considered as one of the choicest 
 blessings of a temperate climate. 
 
 " A most important conclusion appears naturally to 
 arise from the consideration of these facts, namely, 
 the advantages of the cause both to humanity and po- 
 licy that would result from the location on the Hills of 
 European regiments newly arrived in India, whose 
 
 I
 
 114 APPENDIX. 
 
 services are not immediately required in the low 
 country, and who, while rescued from that decimation 
 to which they are so notoriously exposed on their first 
 arrival by the combined effects of climate and irregular 
 habits, might be preserved in the highest state of dis- 
 cipline and efficiency, ready at a day's warning to 
 march in any direction when required. This will be 
 more obvious when we state that cholera (the great 
 scourge of newly arrived European troops) is yet un- 
 known as a primary disease on the Hills, and that even 
 if it should be imported, the analogy of other dis- 
 eases entitles us to conclude that it would be modified 
 and rendered infinitely less fatal by the influence of 
 the climate. 
 
 " The same observation applies, but with greater force, 
 to the care of European recruits sent out for the Ar- 
 tillery and other European corps of the Hon. Com- 
 pany's army. Independent of the ordinary fertile causes 
 of disease, to which they are exposed in common with 
 all others, this class of individuals, mostly raw lads 
 with unformed constitutions, has to undergo a very se^ 
 vere course of drilling at a station where the climate, 
 though comparatively healthy, is decidedly one of the
 
 APPENDIX. U5 
 
 hottest in India. The consequence may be easily fore- 
 seen ; scarcely a single recruit gets through his drill, 
 without being admitted once or oftener into hospital, 
 and generally lays the foundation of some obstinate 
 chronic disease, which in the course of a few years, if it 
 does not terminate his existence, renders the unfortu- 
 nate subject of it utterly inefficient for all active duties. 
 " If these recruits were at once transferred to the 
 healthy and congenial climate of the Hills, under strict 
 controul, as regards all necessary points of discipline 
 and regimen, but allowed every reasonable license in 
 other respects, made to go through their drill under 
 circumstances where it would seem more an agreeable 
 exercise than a harassing duty ; and when perfectly pre- 
 pared for their various departments transferred to the 
 low country at a more matured age, with well formed 
 constitutions and habits, it might be hoped, than they 
 could have possibly acquired if exposed yet inexperi- 
 enced to the temptations of a low country bazar, are 
 we not justified in confidently expecting the most bene- 
 ficial result ? Fortunately, these considerations have 
 not escaped the attention of the intelligent and talented 
 individual at the head of the Government, and there is 
 
 I 2
 
 116 APPENDIX. 
 
 every reason to hope that his representations will finally 
 induce the Court of Directors to sanction the establish- 
 ment of a general Depot on the Hills for all recruits, 
 with corresponding accommodation for one or more 
 European Regiments on their first arrival. 
 
 (Signed) " R. BAIKIE, M. D. 
 
 " Superintending Medical Officer, 
 " Neilgherries"
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 117 
 
 MEMORANDUM ON THE CLIMATE OF DIMHUTTY. 
 
 " IT appears from the register of the thermometer kept 
 at Kotagherry, that the average difference of tem- 
 perature betwixt that place and Oatacamund is, from 
 five to six degrees ; a difference not entirely depending 
 on the relative elevation of the two places, which at 
 the assumed rate of one degree per 380 feet, would 
 only give three degrees of difference. Dimhutty being 
 somewhat lower than Kotagherry, situated in a hollow, 
 and less exposed to the wind, it may be assumed that 
 there will be a further difference of one degree, or one 
 in fifty, making the total overage of difference of tem- 
 perature between Oatacamund and Dimhutty about 
 eight degrees. 
 
 "The Medical Officer at Kotagherry being in posses- 
 sion of no meteorological instruments, except a ther- 
 mometer, the subjoined observations are necessarily in 
 some degree hypothetical, but being partly founded on 
 my own observation, the Committee will know what 
 weight to give them.
 
 H8 APPENDIX. 
 
 u During the north-east monsoon, Dimhutty being less 
 exposed than Kotagherry, suffers less from the wind 
 and rain ; the temperature during the cold months is 
 more equable than at Oatacamund, the thermometer 
 never descending so low, and being completely sheltered 
 by the mountain of Dodabetta and its subordinate 
 ranges, from the south-west monsoon ; the weather re- 
 mains fine during the greater part of June, July, and 
 August, the most wet and stormy months in all the 
 central and west part of the range. 
 
 " The air at Dimhutty is considerably less rare, and 
 more moist* than at Oatacamund, while its distance 
 from the edge of the Hills, places it beyond all suspi- 
 cion of dangers from the ascent of malaria from the 
 jungle below; in which respect it has the advantage of 
 Coonoor, Khoondah Ghaut, Neddewuttum, and Billi- 
 cul all of which are situated on the verge. of the 
 Hills, and are said (though not uppn very accurate 
 grounds) to be feverish at certain seasons. 
 
 " It thus appears that the climate of Dimhutty, while 
 
 * This must not be understood to mean that it contains more moisture, 
 but that the moisture held in solution by it, is more easily rendered 
 sensible.
 
 APPENDIX. H9 
 
 it is less rare, less dry, and less bracing, and consequently 
 less fit for Europeans in robust health, as well as for 
 invalids in an advanced state of convalescence, is much 
 milder, and at certain seasons more equable ; that there 
 is upon the whole much more dry weather during some 
 seasons at least, and consequently more facility for 
 taking exercise, than at Oatacamund. 
 
 " The important conclusion to be drawn from these 
 facts is, that Dimhutty is better suited as a residence 
 for invalids on their first arrival than Oatacamund ; the 
 change from the low country being less sudden, and the 
 comparatively higher temperature and moister constitu- 
 tion of the air, being better calculated to keep up the 
 action of the skin, and prevent the repulsion of blood 
 from the surface upon the internal organs, already weak- 
 ened by disease ; an evil consequence which the greatest 
 care is now and then insufficient to prevent at Oataca- 
 mund ; particularly in the numerous cases of hepatic 
 disease and mercurial rheumatism, and which often 
 considerably retards the cure in these and other similar 
 instances. The same considerations apply to the cases 
 of asthma and determination of blood to the head, which 
 generally undergo an aggravation, slight it is true, and
 
 120 APPENDIX. 
 
 transient, but which it would still be desirable if pos- 
 sible to avoid on first ascending into the dry, cold, and 
 highly rarefied atmosphere of Oatacamund. 
 
 " An important advantage offered by the difference of 
 seasons at the two places, is the facility of transferring 
 from one to the other, cases which suffer from sudden 
 changes of weather, from electricity or from the want 
 of exercise on this head I speak with the more confi- 
 dence, as I have tried the experiment by sending seve- 
 ral invalids from Oatacamund to Kotagherry at the 
 commencement of the southwest monsoon, with the 
 most beneficial results. 
 
 " I have no hesitation therefore in earnestly recom- 
 mending for the consideration of the Committee, the 
 propriety of obtaining the sanction of government for 
 the establishment of a subordinate sanitarium at Dim- 
 hutty for European soldiers, to contain from twenty-five 
 to thirty-five men, and quarters for sick officers on a 
 similar scale, to which generally they should be sent on 
 their first arrival, and retained there till their cure is 
 sufficiently advanced to admit their bearing with im- 
 punity the further change to Oatacamund, or on the 
 other hand, to which they might be transferred from the
 
 APPENDIX. 121 
 
 latter place, when bad weather or other circumstances 
 render such a change advisable. 
 
 " With a view to ensure a proper selection of cases, 
 they might all be submitted to the Superintending Me- 
 dical Officer, for him to decide as to the prudence of 
 placing them in the first instance at Dimhutty, or bring- 
 ing them at once to Oatacamund it being obviously 
 unnecessary that all cases indiscriminately be submitted 
 to that preliminary ordeal. 
 
 (Signed) " R. BAIKIE, M. D. 
 
 Superintending Medical Officer."
 
 122 APPENDIX. 
 
 PRESIDENT'S MINUTE. 
 
 " I CANNOT leave the Neilgherry Hills without ex- 
 pressing my encreased confidence in the healthful 
 effects of the climate, nor without an anxious desire, 
 to place them within the reach of all classes of persons, 
 (to whatever presidencies belonging) whose health has 
 been injured by the heat of the plains of India. 
 
 " The expence of house-rent, together with the un- 
 certainty of obtaining a lodging upon the first arrival, 
 restrains many in the subordinate ranks of the service, 
 and especially those who are married, from flying to 
 the Hills, before dangerous diseases have made a 
 fatal progress. To provide for these cases, I have 
 therefore determined to place the bungalows I bought 
 from the Missionary Society at Dimhutty, under the care 
 of the officer commanding on the Hills, and of the 
 principal collector of the district; and I request that 
 they will form such regulations as shall in their opinion 
 be best calculated to afford to persons who really stand 

 
 APPENDIX. J23 
 
 in need of lodging on their first arrival, this essential 
 comfort free of expence. 
 
 " As the bungalows are now in good repair, no 
 expence on this account will be required for two or 
 three years. But the Committee, who are charged 
 with the buildings, can hereafter require from those 
 who can best afford it such moderate sums, and no 
 more, as will be sufficient to keep up the buildings, so 
 that they may continue to be a comfort to six families, 
 (or a greater number of bachelors,) which I calculate 
 that the six bungalows are capable of accommodating. 
 
 " Separate from the buildings and the flower garden, 
 is one of the earliest, and still one of the best kitchen- 
 gardens, on the Hills. This I intend should be also 
 applied for the use of the persons occupying the bun- 
 galows, under the direction of the officer commanding, 
 recommending that old Govindoo, or some of his 
 family may be retained in charge under such arrange- 
 ments as may be thought best. 
 
 "As I shall always take a deep interest in the 
 settlement on the Hills, I would request that the 
 public Officers, to whom the Dimhutty premises are 
 consigned, may transmit to me an annual report of the
 
 124 APPENDIX. 
 
 number of families or persons accommodated, and that 
 no charge may be made in the regulations now to be 
 established for the use of the building and garden, 
 without my concurrence. 
 
 "S. R. LUSHINGTON." 
 
 " Banker rydroog. 
 24th August, 1832." 
 
 " Since I wrote the above, it has occurred to me that, 
 it will be right to retain for my son who is compelled 
 by sickness to reside on the Neilgherries, the option 
 of occupying one of the six bungalows, where change 
 of air may be recommended to him."
 
 APPENDIX. 125 
 
 TO THE QUARTER MASTER GENERAL OF THE ARMY. 
 
 " Fort St. George. 
 " Sir, 
 
 " I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt 
 of your letter of the 7th ultimo, accompanied by a 
 
 copy of an extract from the Minutes of Consultation 
 of the 1st November, 1831. 
 
 " In obedience to His Excellency the Commander 
 in Chief's orders, I immediately determined and gave 
 directions, on what was further to be done to the 
 Coonoor Ghaut, and then proceeded myself towards 
 the Koondahs, to prosecute the investigation required 
 by the latter part of the above minute. 
 
 " I quitted Oatacamund on the 10th ultimo, in 
 company with Major Crewe, and Lieutenant and Ad- 
 jutant Le Hardy. We first proceeded in a direction 
 due West, towards a high and perpendicular mountain, 
 named the Moorkutty Peak, overlooking the Province of 
 Malabar, and in the neighbourhood of which our pre- 
 vious information had led us to believe that the Pass
 
 J2(j APPENDIX. 
 
 opened into the low country. Moorkutty Peak is dis- 
 tant from Oatacamund eighteen miles, and we as- 
 cended its summit on the llth ultimo, and remained 
 in its neighbourhood for four days, exploring and ex- 
 amining in every direction for some opening into the 
 low country. 
 
 " All the descents were found to be abrupt and 
 precipitous, and it was soon obvious that there was no 
 Ghaut practicable in this part of the hills to Nellam- 
 boor. 
 
 <k On the 15th ultimo, some guides joined us, sent 
 by Mr. Huddleston, and stated that the Pass was 
 distant thirty miles from where we were, indi- 
 cating its position to be in a south-westerly direction. 
 
 " We started on the following morning (the 16th 
 ultimo,) but from the badness of the weather, and the 
 want of roads we did not reach the summit ef the 
 Koondah Ghaut, with our tents and baggage, till the 
 morning of the 21st. Mookamully Peak, laid down in 
 the maps, and known to the natives by that name, is 
 the only, and most conspicuous mark to distinguish this 
 Ghaut, there being neither hut, village nor mund in 
 its neighbourhood. Its distance from Oatacamund
 
 APPENDIX. J27 
 
 is about thirty-five miles, and its direction south- 
 West. 
 
 " It is situated at the south-western extremity of 
 the Koondahs. 
 
 " This Pass has never heretofore been used, except 
 by bands of smugglers : they found it guarded by 
 elephants and impracticable forests, which with its 
 remote situation made it well adapted for the carrying 
 on in secrecy of their unlawful trade. 
 
 "Lieutenant Le Hardy and I, endeavoured to 
 descend the Ghaut on the forenoon of the 21st. taking 
 the perambulator with us, and a party of pioneers with 
 hatchets and axes, to clear the obstructed passages. 
 We expected to have nearly reached the bottom of 
 the actual Ghaut. We found the road most steep, 
 difficult and tedious, not passable for horses, and after 
 descending for two miles, we returned, to avoid being 
 benighted. I sent on a Havildar, (who had learned to 
 use the perambulator,) with pioneers and guides, and 
 gave him orders to push on till he reached Mungeree 
 in the low country, a large village not far from the 
 Beypoor river, and in the direct road to Calicut. 
 " The party took three days to reach Mungaree,
 
 128 APPENDIX. 
 
 having had to cut their way through many parts of the 
 jungle, and being much incommoded, after descending 
 the Ghaut, by small leeches, which are very numerous 
 at the foot of the hills. They returned withut any 
 accident or misfortune, to the top of the Ghaut, and 
 brought their report to me there, on Sunday the 27th 
 ultimo. 
 
 " I send the result of the Havildar's survey, ex- 
 tracted from his Malabar Reports. 
 
 " It will thus be seen, that all has gone on well so 
 far, and that the Pass is practicable. The great object 
 now is to find out a good line of direction with the 
 gentlest declivity we can obtain. In opening new 
 Ghauts, the plan is to disregard the old tracks and 
 never to cease laboring, nor to desist from fresh trials, 
 till a new and eligible line is discovered. This was 
 the method pursued with the Coonoor Ghaut, the final 
 success of which has well rewarded the labor bestowed 
 on it. 
 
 " I have now fifty men employed under a European 
 officer ,in cutting away the jungle, and marking out 
 a good path-way. They will in a short time get to 
 the bottom of the Ghaut, the whole descent of which
 
 APPENDIX. 129 
 
 is seven miles two furlongs, after this, all will be com- 
 paratively easy. 
 
 " What I would recommend first, and what I pro- 
 pose doing is, to open the Ghaut so as to make a 
 passage for horses, palankeens and laden bullocks, six 
 feet wide will suffice for this in the first instance, and 
 I would carry a road of the same breadth, all the 
 way from the summit of the Ghaut, to Oatacamund. 
 
 " A. detachment of the corps may perform this duty, 
 and it need very little impede the important work at 
 Coonoor, where I would wish to keep the largest 
 proportion of the corps. 
 
 " All is now in progress ; and I would beg to have 
 this report considered only as a preliminary one, as 
 respects the Koondah Pass, as on my next and approach- 
 ing excursion to it, I purpose to descend to the bottom, 
 and to execute a survey and plan of it, which together 
 with a report, will, I hope, give all necessary informa- 
 tion. 
 
 " I shall now state what I have done regarding the 
 Coonoor Ghaut, the utility and advantage of which will 
 be best appreciated if a comparison is made between it, 
 and all the other passes leading to the Neilgherries. 
 
 K
 
 130 APPENDIX. 
 
 " The Coonoor Ghaut, is incomparably the best of 
 any of the mountain passes. The following are some 
 of its main advantages. 
 
 " 1st. It is the nearest of any to the presidency. 
 " 2nd. It is easy of access, and does not expose tra- 
 vellers to the slightest risk of jungle fever, and is 
 of a uniform and gentle declivity throughout. 
 
 "3rd. It is the only one of all the passes, that can 
 be safely used by foot-passengers. 
 
 " 4th. It leads at once to a mild and healthful 
 climate at its summit. 
 
 " 5th. It is only a short march afterwards, with a 
 good road from its summit to Oatcamund. 
 
 "6th. By throwing a bridge across the Bhavany, 
 near Mattapolliam, and completing the works now in 
 progress, an excellent and uninterrupted communica- 
 tion by this pass will be opened all the way from 
 Madras to the Neilgherries ; so that a carriage may be 
 safely driven from Government House to Oatacamund. 
 The Coonoor Ghaut, was altogether unknown till the 
 year 1829, when the Right Honorable the Governor, 
 observing its favorable position, directed Lieutenant 
 Le Hardy to trace out a foot-path from the top to the
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 bottom. This was successfully done, and its superior 
 advantages became soon so apparent, that the other 
 passes in its neighbourhood were nearly abandoned. 
 
 " The actual extent of this Ghaut, is six miles and 
 a half, and the lower part as remarked by the Right 
 Honorable the Governor, on his recently descending it, 
 was too precipitous to be made convenient for wheeled 
 carriages. This was a valid objection, and unless it 
 could have been obviated by an improved line was 
 altogether insuperable. I rejoice to say, that Lieute- 
 nant Le Hardy, by his skilful and unwearied exertions, 
 has discovered a new direction by going a little higher 
 up the hill, which will effectually take away from the 
 steepness of the descent, and render the whole Ghaut 
 easily practicable for wheeled carriages. The descent 
 by the new direction will only be about fifteen inches 
 in ten feet, and the soil will be easier to work upon ; 
 there will be less declivities to cut away, and fewer 
 rocks to blast. 
 
 " I have accordingly changed the direction ; it was 
 only yesterday that it was traced out to the very 
 bottom of the Ghaut. 
 
 " In obedience to the Minute of Council, I have 
 K 2
 
 J 32 APPENDIX. 
 
 diminished the breadth of the road by making it only 
 twelve instead of twenty feet wide. This will greatly 
 abridge the labour and time required for the completion 
 of the Ghaut, and the work may at any time afterwards 
 be resumed, should Government deem it expedient to 
 do so, and may then be finished in the same manner as 
 it has been so successfully begun. One third of the 
 work, I may say, is already accomplished, water-courses 
 or channels have been constructed, and are construct- 
 ing, at every fifty yards, and I find by experience, 
 that nothing tends to preserve the durability of a 
 Ghaut more effectually than this. 
 
 " I fixed upon twelve feet as the breadth of the 
 Ghaut, in communication with Major Crewe, whose 
 knowledge of the hills and desire of their improvement 
 enabled him to form a correct opinion on the subject. 
 This breadth will still make a very good road, * but if 
 narrower, it would be insufficient for the great thorough- 
 fare which the Coonoor Ghaut has now become. Be- 
 sides, roads are apt to crumble and wear away at the 
 sides, and if made only barely sufficient, they would 
 soon become obstructed, and require repairs to keep 
 them passable. Were the lower part of the Coonoor
 
 APPENDIX. 133 
 
 Ghaut not to be widened, there would scarcely be a 
 vestige of a road left after six months, as the vast 
 number of bullocks and horses constantly moving on it, 
 would wear it out. The case is very different with 
 regard to passes little frequented. The lower part of 
 the Coonoor Ghaut had just undergone repair, before 
 the Governor went down, and it had several times 
 before been repaired, while the head quarters of the 
 corps were at Oatacamund. Without such repairs, 
 it would speedily get into bad order; and often before, 
 from the shelving in of the bank and the wearing away 
 of the road, it became impassable, till the obstructions 
 were removed. 
 
 " Lieutenant Le Hardy is preparing a full plan of 
 the Coonoor Ghaut, which he surveyed in 1830, and 
 which will shew the proposed new line ; when finished 
 I shall have the honor of transmitting it for submission 
 to His Excellency Sir Robert O'Callaghan. 
 
 "While the Neilgherries continue to be resorted to, 
 and to possess their high reputation, the Coonoor 
 Ghaut, will always be the grand entrance into them, 
 which will be best seen by a. short description of the 
 other Ghauts.
 
 134 APPENDIX. 
 
 STREEMOOGAH PASS. 
 
 " Streemoogah Bungalow is situated on the left 
 bank of the Bhavany river, and is only six miles from 
 Mattapolliam, previous to the discovery of the Coonoor 
 pass, the Streemoogah was reckoned the safest and 
 easiest of access of any of the passes, and was much 
 frequented. It admits of palankeens, horses, and laden 
 cattle to go up it with ease. It leads, as is well 
 known, to Dimhutty, its distance from whence is six- 
 teen miles, and is, the whole way, one continued 
 ascent and descent, thus rendering the passage exces- 
 sively tedious. The superior facilities of the Coonoor 
 Ghaut, which is close to it, have almost entirely su- 
 perseded Streemoogah. 
 
 "There has also been a road lately made, direct 
 from Mattapollium to Kotagherry, by Mr. Thomas, the 
 collector, distance only twelve miles, which avoids 
 Streemoogah altogether, and renders it unnecessary for 
 travellers to sleep by the way. This, which may be 
 called the Kotagherry Pass, is however excessively 
 steep, it is nearly ten miles in length, and as no good
 
 APPENDIX. 135 
 
 bundy road can ever be made, by the present line, from 
 Kotagherry to Oatacamund, it is not likely that this 
 pass can ever come into extensive use. 
 
 DANAIKINCOTTAH PASS. 
 
 " This is another pass, a little further to the north, 
 also leading to Dimhutty. It is more circuitous than 
 the other, (being twenty miles from Danaikincottah to 
 Dimhutty, but passes for a considerable way over easy 
 ground. It is only a foot path, has never been much 
 frequented, and is now likely to fall into total disuse. 
 
 KEELOOR PASS. 
 
 "The path up this Ghaut, is tolerably good, but is 
 of difficult ascent. It is five miles and a half in ex- 
 tent, and is the nearest road from Oatacamund to 
 Paulghaut, Cochin, &c. The natives however almost 
 uniformly forsake it, and come by Coonoor in prefer- 
 ence. It is unhealthy at the bottom, and is now only 
 frequented by a few Brinjaries. Keeloor has a bunga- 
 low near it. It is eight miles to the south of Kaitee,
 
 136 APPENDIX. 
 
 and is ten miles from Soondaputty on the left banks 
 of the Bhavany. The foot of the Ghaut is hilly, and 
 covered with jungle. 
 
 SEEGOOR PASS. 
 
 " Seegoor is the nearest and most direct pass from 
 Bangalore to Oatacamund. The ascent is excessively 
 steep, but not more than four miles in length. The 
 road leading to it is of difficult access, surrounded by 
 forests and extremely unhealthy. On this account, it 
 has been well nigh abandoned, and Goodaloor substi- 
 tuted in preference to it, by which route, bearers are 
 now uniformly posted for travellers. Much labour and 
 expence would be incurred to make Seegoor a safe 
 and convenient route. 
 
 THE GOODALOOR OR NEDDAWUTTUM PASS. 
 
 "This pass has been made by the pioneers, and 
 the road, although steep, is very good ; it is with much 
 difficulty that Bundies can get up. It now forms the 
 high road from Bangalore to Oatacamund, passing
 
 APPENDIX. 1 37 
 
 through Goondulpett, Mungalum and Karkaree. By 
 an unremitting march in a palankeen, travellers may 
 by this route, reach the Hills in safety, but their ser- 
 vants and followers, who come on foot are exposed to 
 disease and death from the jungle fever, the malignity 
 of which is but too well known. 
 
 " The safe route (although about sixty miles further 
 round,) from Bangalore to Oatacamund, is by Oossore, 
 the Tapoor pass, Salem, Avanashy, Mattapollium 
 and Coonoor. By this route the Commander in 
 Chief, has ordered all European soldiers and detach- 
 ments, proceeding from Bangalore to the Hills, to 
 march; thereby, I am persuaded, saving the lives of 
 many brave men for the future service of their country, 
 and thus by the test of experience, recognizing the 
 advantages of the Coonoor Ghaut. 
 
 CAREOOR PASS. 
 
 "This pass is ascended in the present route from 
 Calicut to Oatacamund. It leads to the Table Land 
 of Mysore, and the Goodaloor pass has afterwards to 
 be ascended. This route from Calicut to Oatacamund,
 
 138 APPENDIX. 
 
 is consequently attended with all the disadvantages 
 noticed under the head of Goodaloor Pass. 
 
 " The safe route from Calicut although very circuit- 
 ous, is by Paulghaut, Coimbatoor, Mattapollium and 
 Coonoor. 
 
 " The present route from Cannanore to Oatacamund, 
 
 
 
 is by the Periah Pass, Manantoddy and Goodaloor ; but 
 when the Koondah Ghaut is opened, the direct road 
 from all places on the Western coast, will be by the 
 Koondah Ghaut ; as the direct road from all places 
 on the Coromandel coast now is by the Coonoor Ghaut. 
 In process of time, these two passes, the Coonoor and 
 the Koondah, will, from their superior utility, super- 
 sede, in a great degree, all the other passes leading to 
 the Neilgherries. 
 
 " I have the honor to be, &c., 
 
 (Signed) " W. MURRAY, Captain, 
 
 " In charge of Pioneer Corps." 
 
 Neilgherries, 
 
 10th December, 1831.
 
 APPENDIX. 139 
 
 TO CAPTAIN LIMOND, OFFICIATING MILITARY SECRE- 
 TARY TO THE RIGHT HON. W. LUSHINGTON. 
 
 " Foot of the Avalanche, 
 9th June, 1832. 
 
 " My dear Sir, 
 
 " I have the greatest pleasure in sending my 
 final report of the Koondah Ghaut to you. 
 
 " This Report, will shew ' the Governor what the 
 pioneers have done, and are capable of doing under 
 his encouragement ; and if he deems proper to publish, 
 it will be an appropriate supplement to his own 
 General Order, and will manifest to all India, what the 
 Madras pioneers, under the Governor's personal direc- 
 tions, have been able to execute. 
 
 " It will be the glory of Mr. Lushington's govern- 
 ment, without any extravagant hyperbole, that he has 
 introduced Europe into Asia, for such are his improve- 
 ments in the Neilgherries. For what were formerly all 
 the advantages of that climate, when disease and death 
 were to be encountered in the access and approach 
 to them?
 
 140 APPENDIX. 
 
 " The Coonoor and Koondah Ghauts (his own spe- 
 cial works,) will be to all succeeding times, monuments 
 of his beneficence and wisdom. I do not say this from 
 flattery, but from firm conviction of mind. No power 
 on earth can now keep down the approved and tried 
 celebrity of the Neilgherries. In process of time they 
 will become one of the noblest Colonies in the known 
 world. In their future history, Mr. Lushington will 
 be recorded as their illustrious, enlightened, and early 
 benefactor. It is easy to do good by treading in the 
 paths of others, but credit and honor are due to him 
 who first projected the good, and pointed out the untried 
 path. The Neilgherries were comparatively unknown 
 before Mr. Lushington's day. 
 
 " Believe me yours very sincerely. 
 (Signed) " W. MURRAY."
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 TO CAPTAIN THOMAS KENNEDY LIMOND, OFFICIATING 
 MILITARY SECRETARY TO THE RIGHT HON. THE 
 GOVERNOR. 
 
 " Camp at the foot of Avalanche Hill, 
 1st June, 1832. 
 
 "Sir, 
 
 " I have much pleasure in reporting to you, for 
 
 the information of the Right Honorable the Governor, 
 that I have completed the passage of the Khoondahs 
 from their summit into the Malabar country, and have 
 united my road with the one in the low country, leading 
 to Cunule, Mungerry, Angadyporrum &c. From this 
 last village, there is a road that leads to Paulghaut. 
 
 " At the close of the rains, a direct road can be made 
 from the bottom of the Ghaut to Vaudoor, which will 
 open the communication to Anacode, and from thence 
 by water to Calicut. 
 
 " This splendid pass at once lays the Neilgherries 
 open to receive the rich productions of Malabar, and 
 the are traders sedulously availing themselves of the 
 means to carry on a commerce to the reciprocal 
 benefit of the two countries. 
 
 " Nothing can surpass the healthiness of every part
 
 142 APPENDIX. 
 
 of this Ghaut, and it is with gratitude to Providence I 
 am enabled to repeat that not a single casualty among 
 the pioneers has occurred at the Khoondahs, during the 
 whole period that the corps has been on duty there. 
 
 " Throughout my operations, I have received uniform 
 aid, from the principal collector in Malabar, Mr. Mid- 
 dleston, which with that gentleman's accurate account 
 of the climate and seasons, materially contributed to 
 my success. 
 
 " Since -the period of the Governor's visit of inspec- 
 tion to the Khoondahs, six miles of mountain road have 
 been completed and every impediment surmounted, 
 being a progress, I imagine, rarely equalled by any body 
 of men of equal strength. 
 
 " This stupendous work in which there were vast 
 forest trees to be felled, deep chasms to be built up, 
 causeways over every river and mountain torrent to 
 be constructed, and rocks to be removed, was begun 
 on the 10th of January, and ended on the 31st of May, 
 1832. 
 
 " I have the honor to be 
 
 " Your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 (Signed) " W. MURRAY, 
 
 Cap. Com. Pioneers."
 
 APPENDIX. 143 
 
 COPY OF A LETTER ADDRESSED TO RAMASWAMI MUDE- 
 LIAR, JAGHIRDAR OF SIVASAMOODRUM, &c. &c. 
 
 " Royal Asiatic Society's House, 
 Graf ton Street, Bond Street, 
 23d July, 1833. 
 
 "Sir, 
 
 " I have the honor to apprise you, that the 
 model of the Lushington granite-stone Bridge, erected 
 by you over the western branch of the river Slavery 
 at Sivasamoodrum, which model was entrusted by you 
 to the care of the Right Honorable Stephen Rumbold 
 Lushington, late Governor of Fort St. George, for 
 presentation to the Royal Asiatic Society, has been 
 safely brought to its destination by that gentleman, and 
 was laid before the Society at a general meeting held 
 on the 6th instant, 
 
 " In addition to the official letter of thanks for this 
 donation, which I have the pleasure to forward, I am 
 instructed to express to you, the high sense which the 
 Society entertains of your liberal and disinterested 
 conduct, in effecting as you have done such extensive 
 improvements in the island of Sivasamoodrum and its
 
 144 APPENDIX. 
 
 communications, of which the Lushington Bridge is 
 not the least important. The opinion of the Council on 
 this subject, you will find recorded in its last annual 
 report to the members of the Society, of which I 
 enclose a copy. You will observe from this report, 
 that you had been proposed for election as a corres- 
 ponding member of the Society, and I have the honor 
 to transmit by this opportunity your Diploma of 
 election, together with a copy of the part of the Trans- 
 actions of the Society which contains your interesting 
 account of the Island and bridges of Sivasamoodrum, 
 and twenty-five extra copies of this account, to which 
 you are entitled by the regulations of the Society. 
 
 " I trust that these proofs of the respect in which 
 your character and exertions are held by the Royal 
 Asiatic Society will reach you in safety, and that the 
 Society may have the pleasure to learn they have done 
 so by a direct communication from you. 
 
 " I have the honor to be, 
 " Sir, Your most obedient 
 "Very humble servant, 
 (Signed) " H. HARKNESS, 
 
 Secretary." 

 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
 Los Angeles 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 
 
 AN- 
 7-4 
 
 ED 
 
 I D ' 
 
 NOV3U1P65 
 
 4-9 
 
 ptvl 
 
 SEP 11 
 
 968 
 
 C .41972 
 
 Form L9-25w-8,'46 ( 9852 ) 444 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 rsr r > ATTwr\i?WTA