?^ ENGLISH LAKES. | 
 
 .*^Vj^f'€5'^^^^'
 
 MAP OF THE LAKE DISTRICT
 
 HAND-BOOK 
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 WITH MAP AND ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 KENDAL : 
 
 PUBLISHED BY T. ATKINSON. 
 
 LONDON : HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. 
 
 1847.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 That a small Guide, or Hand-Book. pointing out, 
 and briefly describing all the places of interest in 
 the Lake District, and reduced to a more portable 
 and convenient size than any hitherto published, 
 has long been a desideratum, it is almost needless 
 to mention ; and, now that railway conununica- 
 tion enables parties to approach in a cheap, easy, 
 and expeditious manner, additional numbers will 
 avail themselves of the opportunity of visiting a 
 country iHich in scenery, in historic and poetic as- 
 sociations, and the want of a Guide not so cumber- 
 some or expensive as those at present in use must 
 have been deeply felt. The present Work is in- 
 tended to supply this deficiency. The Compiler 
 has indicated the best routes to be taken, and has 
 given, in a concise form, an account of those objects 
 worthy of being visited, placing them in that order 
 in which the tourist will find them ; and where 
 more routes than one can be taken they are pointed 
 out, leaving the visiter to select at his option, and 
 adopt those most suiting his time and convenience. 
 Being well acquainted with the district, the Com- 
 piler can pledge himself to the general accuracy of 
 E 2
 
 IV PREFACE. 
 
 the work, and to the correctness of the distances 
 given. 
 
 The Map which accompanies this Hand-Book 
 will be found a valuable acquisition — exhibiting 
 distinctly the different roads, lakes, mountains, &c., 
 and not crowded with names of unimportant places, 
 calculated only to bewilder and confuse. The co- 
 pious Index at the end will enable the visiter to 
 refer at once to any place mentioned in the book. 
 
 The List of Plants, with their habitats, has been 
 revised by Mr. Gough, of Kendal, who has kindly 
 made some additions to the lists heretofore pub- 
 lished. 
 
 Kendal, May, 1847.
 
 HAND-BOOK 
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 There are two points which have long engaged the 
 attention of \-isiters to the lake and mountain scenery 
 of Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, viz., 
 the route by which the country may be viewed most 
 advantageously, and the season of the year when 
 the landscape presents the greatest beauty and 
 variety. The recent construction of railways to 
 the lake district has afforded great facilities to the 
 tourist ; and the formation of a branch, joining the 
 Lancaster and Carlisle line near Kendal, and ter- 
 minating near to the village of Bowniess, a short 
 distance from Lake Windermere, will now render 
 the route by way of Lancaster and Kendal most 
 preferable to visiters fi'om the south. Hitherto it 
 has been regarded by wTiters well acquainted with 
 this locality the best, at least for those whose time 
 was somewhat limited, and with the above ad- 
 ditional advantages the point may now be con- 
 sidered decided. The precise period of the year for 
 visiting the country is a matter which must be fixed 
 on according to the taste of the visiter. Some pre- 
 fer the spring, but by far the greatest influx takes 
 place during the autumn months. In May and 
 June the landscape presents a lively appearance ; 
 the meadows and mountain sides are clothed in 
 verdure; tlte timber trees and coppice woods exhibit 
 
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 every variety of green ; and while the eye feasts on 
 the beauty of the varied prospect, the music of the 
 woodland choi'isters falls deliciously on the ear. In 
 August and September the scenery has undergone a 
 considerable change — the rich gi'een of spring has 
 given place to the golden and manifold hues of 
 autumn, Tlie foliage of the woods and forest trees 
 displays a pleasing diversity of tints, and here and 
 there is seen a field of yellow gi'ain, waving in the 
 breeze, or enlivened by a host of busy harvest 
 labourei-s. Tlie heavy showers of rain Avhich occa- 
 sionally fall at this period may be looked on as un- 
 favourable to the progress of the tourist ; but the 
 slight disadvantages they occasion are perhaps more 
 than compensated by the freshness they impart to 
 the landscape, and by their swelling the waterfalls, 
 giving a highly picturesque appearance to some that 
 would otherAvase be scarcely worth at siting. 
 
 Passing from Lancaster to Kendal (a distance of 
 upwards of twenty miles by the Lancaster and Car- 
 lisle Railway), the scenery presenting itself to the 
 eye of the spectator is of a character which indi- 
 cates his approach to the lake district. "\Mien about 
 half way the passenger leaves at a little to the right 
 the small town of Burton-in-Kendal, and a few 
 miles further, at a greater distance in the same 
 direction, the town of Kirkby Lonsdale, situated on 
 the western banks of the river Lune, in one of the 
 most beautiful valleys in the kingdom. Though at 
 some distance from the direct road to the lakes, this 
 place is frequently visited by strangers, and the 
 richness of the surrounding scenery amply repays 
 the trouble of the devnation. Kirkby Lonsdale con- 
 tains a population of nearly 1 700 ; has a fine church, 
 which, however, has lost its antique appearance 
 through modern innovation ; and a lofty bridge of 
 three arches over the Lune. In the vicinage are
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. ^ 
 
 a number of gentlemen's seats, and about a mile to 
 the north-east the village of Casterton, whei-e resides 
 the Rev. Carus AVilson, editor of several religious 
 periodicals, and superintendent of two laudable insti- 
 tutions — one a school for educating the daughters 
 of the clerg)', and the other for the training of female 
 servants, both which, -with an exceedingly neat 
 chapel, are in the ^^llage. In the neighbourhood 
 are also several caves, all of which may be con- 
 veniently visited fi'om the towm. "WTien seven miles 
 from Kendal, the line leaves, at a mile to the west, 
 the salubrious little town of Milnthoi-pe, where, pre- 
 \'ious to the railway communication being opened, 
 tourists were in the habit of making a temporary 
 stay ; and a little further, on the same side, the 
 rural village of Heversham, famed^ for its school, 
 where sevei*al eminent charactei-s have received 
 their education, amongst whom are named the late 
 Bishop Watson, Professor "Wliewell, and others. 
 Further still is Levens Hall, the seat of Lady 
 Howard, with its splendid park adjoining the banks 
 of the river Kent. The gardens here were planned 
 by IVIr. Beaumont, gardener to King James U., 
 after the old French style, of which they are the 
 finest specimen in the kingdom, and, together with 
 the richly carved oak in the library and hall, will be 
 found rare and interesting objects. About three 
 miles from Kendal the traveller catches a glimpse 
 of Sizergh Hall, to the west, an ancient building 
 that has long been in possession of the Stricklands, 
 surrounded by a park and woodland scenery. It is 
 recorded that Mary, Queen of Scots, was once an 
 inmate here, and the room she occupied still bears 
 her name. Queen Catherine Parr also resided here 
 a short time after the demise of the king, and prior 
 to her second marriage. Arrived at the junction of 
 the Kendal and Windermere Railway, one of the 
 B 2
 
 4 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 best views is obtained of the town of Kendal. Partly 
 situated at the base of a hill, Avhich commands the 
 river Kent and the vale for some distance, its irre- 
 gular streets and scattered houses, when viewed 
 from this elevated position, have a very pleasing 
 appearance. Between the junction and the town, 
 on the summit of a conical hill, stand the ruins of 
 the Castle, once the seat of the barons of Kendal, 
 and the birth-place of Catherine Parr, the sixth and 
 only surviving wife of " bluff King Hal." It has 
 evidently once been encircled by a deep fosse, and 
 the only remains of its former stability are a tower, 
 part of a keep, and portions of a circular wall. 
 
 Should the toui'ist reach Kendal in the early part 
 of the day he might spend the remainder profitably 
 in looking about the town and neighbourhood. The 
 principal inns are the King's Ai'ms and Commercial, 
 besides which comfortable accommodation may be 
 found at the Crown and other respectable houses. 
 The town has two main streets running nearly 
 direct fi-om north to south, fi-om which others 
 of inferior note branch oiF, and contains a popula- 
 tion of nearly 13,000 inhabitants. Its pi-incipal 
 manufactures are those of wooUen, which have 
 flourished ever since the commencement of the 
 fourteenth century, when they were introduced by 
 John Kemp, a manufacturer from Flanders. There 
 are three churches, two of modern erection, and 
 one of ancient Gothic architecture, situated at the 
 southern end of the town, which contains, among 
 other things worthy of notice, three chapels, belong- 
 ing to the Parrs, Stricklands, and Bellinghams, 
 with monuments of the respective families. Besides 
 these there are a number of other places of worsliip 
 belonging to the nonconformists. Kendal also boasts 
 a Museum containing a good collection of objects of 
 natural history, minerals, &c. ; a Book Club, patron-
 
 THE ENGLISJI LAKES. ^ 
 
 ised by the principal gentry in the neighl>ourhoo<l ; 
 a good Library; Mechanics' Institute, and two 
 News Rooms. 
 
 Having surveyed the town, and visited some of tlie 
 places already referred to, the traveller will do well 
 to make an excursion to Scout Scar, a bold preci- 
 pice about two mil(;s to the west, from whence the 
 surrounding country may be advantageously seen. 
 To the right is a somewhat undulating tract of 
 country, ap]);irently closed in by the lake moun- 
 tains; in front a champaign of turf ground, bounded 
 on the ojjposite side by a ridge similar to the scar 
 itself; wiiile Uj the left may be seen portions of 
 Morecambe Bay, fringed wtli woods and green fields 
 — altogether forming a scene of great beauty and 
 attraction ; and more particularly so if viewed in 
 the softening light of evening, when visiters will 
 frequently stay until the last notes of the blackbird 
 have died away in the wood beneath, and the shades 
 of evening are fast closing around, before they with- 
 draw their gaze and wend their way back to their 
 adopted quarters. Here, too, the geologist will 
 meet with fine specimens of fossil shells, which are 
 exceedingly abundant on this and the neighbouring 
 fells. 
 
 The antiquarian would pro)j;iljly prefer a walk to 
 AYater Crook, a mile to the south, following the 
 river Kent, where are the remains of a Roman 
 station, supposed to be the Concangium. Several 
 antique relics have been found here, of which two 
 altars, a broken statue, and a sepulchral stone are 
 yet preserved 
 
 From Kenrlal an agreeable excursion might be 
 made to Hawes Water, somewhere about twenty 
 miles, either through the vale of Kentmere or Long 
 Sleddale. Tlie lake is situated in the narrow vale 
 of iNIanlale, has steeji craggy hills overlooking its 
 p. 3
 
 6 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 head, and on its southern side a mountainous ridge 
 known by the name of Naddle Forest. Or a visit 
 might be made to Shap Wells (sixteen miles) taking 
 the Lancaster and Carlisle Railway, which passes 
 close to the place. The spa being considered highly 
 efficacious in many disorders, great numbers resort 
 to it in summer, and the commodious hotel on the 
 spot affords every accommodation both for the in- 
 valid and pleasure seeker. 
 
 From the railway station at Kendal to the ter- 
 minus at Birthwaite, near Bowness, is nearly nine 
 miles. Near to the town the line crosses the Kent 
 by a viaduct, shortly after leaves the village of 
 Burneside and Burneside Hall on the right, and 
 Tolson Hall, formerly the seat of the Batemans, 
 on the left ; thence proceeding up the valley by 
 Cowan Head, and passing close to the village of 
 Staveley. At the terminus a spacious hotel has 
 just been erected, where conveyances may be pro- 
 cured, and other facilities received. And here is 
 first obtained a \'iew of 
 
 " Wooded Winandermere, the river lake," 
 
 Perchance its scarcely rippled surface, glittering with 
 silvery sheen, dotted here and there with boats, a 
 few with unfurled sails of snowy whiteness scudding 
 slowly before the breeze; its scattered islands clad 
 with shady trees ; and its banks exhibiting field, 
 wood, hill, and dale, in pleasing disorder, adorned 
 with stately mansions, neat villas, oixlerly-looking 
 farm houses, and whitewashed cottages, peeping 
 from beneath some overhanging wood, or sheltered 
 by ancestral trees, appearing like the abodes of 
 peace, comfort, and industry, and so sweetly re- 
 tired, one 
 
 " Deeply feels 
 That innocence her shrine might there preserve 
 For ever."
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 7 
 
 The h^till pellucid lake, the majestic and beautiful 
 scenery Avhich sui'rounds it, reposing graceful and 
 serene, bursting at once upon the sight, leaves an 
 impression on the mind which the hand of time can 
 never erase — an impression which, amid all the 
 changes of life, -will remain indelible, and, if possible, 
 only become more and more delightful as that mo- 
 ment recedes into the past, and is viewed by the 
 retrospective eye in the moonlight of memory. 
 Alluding to this enchanting prospect, Professor 
 Wilson MTites, " You feel that there is loveliness on 
 this earth more exquisite and perfect than ever 
 visited your slumbers even in the glimpses of a 
 ch'eam. The first sight of such a scene viih be 
 unforgotten to your dying day — for such passive 
 impressions are deeper than we can explain — our 
 whole spiritual being is suddenly awakened to re- 
 ceive them — and associations swift as light, are 
 gathered into one emotion of Beauty, which shall 
 be imperishable, and which often as memory recalls 
 that moment, grows into genius, and vents itself in 
 appropriate expressions, each in itself a picture." 
 
 From the terminus the tourist naturally directs 
 his coui'se to the village of Bovvness, the great resort 
 of all the lake visiters. It stands on the edge of 
 a fine bay which frequeiitly presents a most ani- 
 mated appearance. Boats of various descriptions 
 are riding at anchor, while others are perpetually 
 enteiing or departing, loaded with many a pleasure- 
 seeking party. The village contains two excellent 
 inns (the Royal Hotel and the Crown), where tour- 
 ists meet with every attention, and where all requi- 
 site information may be gained. The church is an 
 ancient edifice, with a square tower and leaden roof, 
 and one of its windows contains some of the painted 
 glass taken fi-om the east window of Furness Abbey. 
 In the yard, at the eastern end of the church, is a 
 B 4
 
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 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 plain monument to the memory of Bishop Watson, 
 who was bui-iecl here, inscribed " Ricardi Watson, 
 Episcopi Landavensis cineribus sacrum, obiit Julii 1, 
 A.D. 1816, ^tatis 79." Overlooking the village is 
 a school, built by the late Col. Bolton, of Storrs 
 Hall, from whence the upper portion of the lake is 
 seen to advantage. Here is also a hydropathic 
 establishment, superintended by Dr. Paisley, who 
 has a number of patients undergoing the treatment. 
 A variety of excursions may be made from 
 Bowness, some of which, in addition to the charm- 
 ing landscapes they unfold, to the lover of literature 
 produce other delights, from being associated with 
 names of high standing in the literary world. A 
 pleasing walk of two miles to the south brings you 
 to Storrs Hall, the residence of Mrs. Bolton, situated 
 on the margin of the lake, amid fine pleasure 
 grounds. Here Mr. Canning was in the habit of 
 paying frequent visits, to gain a little respite from 
 public cares, and was occasionally honoui'ed by the 
 company of some of the most illustrious characters 
 , of the age, amongst whom are numbered Sir Walter 
 Scott, Wordsworth, Southey, Professor Wilson, and 
 others. By taking the opposite direction along the 
 Ambleside road, Rayrigg, Elleray (the property of 
 Professor Wilson, and recently inhabited by Thos. 
 Hamilton, Esq., the author of " Cyril Thornton," 
 " Men and Manners in America," and other popular 
 works), The Wood, and other seats ai-e passed, and 
 at different points fine views open to the sight, 
 some extending almost to both extremities of the 
 lake. Near to the lake is seen Calgarth Park, 
 where resided the late Bishop AVatson, who here 
 composed his well known Apology for the Bible. 
 At the distance of little more than a mile tlie road 
 joins that from Kendal, by crossing which tliis 
 excursion may be extended into the vale of Trout-
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. ^ 
 
 beck. Still more extensive vieAvs are gained by 
 climbing those hills overlooking the village, either 
 by Bowness Bank to Orrest Head, or pursuing a 
 road by the Crown Hotel and the cold water estab- 
 lishment to Brantfell. 
 
 From Bowness a boat may be procured to Belle 
 Isle, or, as it is locally termed. The Island, from 
 being the largest on the lake. Its surface, measur- 
 ing about thirty acres, is covered with trees, and 
 intersected with gravel walks. There is also a 
 marginal one, running entirely round the island, in 
 perambulating which the eye rests at various points 
 on scenes of dignified and softened beauty. In the 
 words of a native author, " there is not perhaps a 
 spot about the lake can equal a walk round this 
 island in a summer evening, when the long level 
 shadows of the west are seen in the boldest contrast 
 with the glowing gold of the hills to the north- 
 east." Partly on the eastern side is the mansion of 
 Mr. Curwen, to whom the island belongs. " The 
 building is a perfect circle, fifty four feet in dia- 
 meter, and its roof is a dome covered with fine blue 
 slate, found in the neighbourhood." Belle Isle 
 formerly belonged to the ancient Westmorland 
 family of Philipsons, and in the time of the civil 
 wars was inhabited by two brothers of that name, 
 the elder a colonel, and the younger a major, in the 
 royal army. The latter Avas a person possessing a 
 bold, adventurous spirit, and from his valorous and 
 daring exploits received the cognomen of " Robin 
 the Devil." It is reported that he here, with a 
 small band of trusty friends, withstood a siege of 
 eight months from Colonel Briggs, an officer in the 
 republican service stationed at Kendal, at the end 
 of which period, his brother coming to his assist- 
 ance, the colonel was repulsed. Aftenvards, in 
 order to retaliate, the major, with a small company
 
 10 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 of horse, went to Kendal, one Sunday morning, 
 where, being informed the colonel was at prayers, 
 he proceeded to the church, stationed his men at the 
 entrance, and rode down the principal aisle. Briggs 
 however not being present, the major was frus- 
 trated in his design, and in making good his retreat 
 his head came violently in contact with the arch of 
 the door-way, by which casualty his helmet was 
 struck off, and his saddle girth broken. The con- 
 gregation, recovering from their surprise, attempted 
 to seize him ; but, although much stunned, he suc- 
 ceeded, by the aid of his followers, to effect his 
 escape. This incident has been taken advantage 
 of by Scott in the poem of Rokeby, whose similar 
 description in canto six was founded on it, as 
 appears from a note appended to that passage. 
 
 One day's sojourn at least ought to be passed on 
 and about the lake. To those who wish to go its 
 full length in a short time the steam yacht, whicli 
 plies during the day between Ambleside and Newby 
 Bridge, is to be preferred ; but others who are de- 
 sirous of strolling over the islands which dot its 
 surface, and gliding within its pebbly bays and 
 around its wood-clad pi-omontories, should retain a 
 small boat as evidently best adapted for that pur- 
 pose. By thus taking a leisurely survey novel 
 prospects and unlooked for beauties are continually 
 unfolding themselves to view. We will now pro- 
 ceed to give a brief sketch of the lake itself. 
 
 "Windermere, the largest of the English lakes, is 
 about twelve miles in length, and in some places 
 measures a mile in breadth. Its depth varies con- 
 siderably, the greatest being stated to be eighty 
 yards, or two hundred and forty feet. Its waters 
 supply char, trout, perch, and pike, the privilege 
 for jishing which is invested in different land- 
 owners, who let their respective fisheries to persons
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 11 
 
 who follow that art as their calling. At the proper 
 season these hsherraen dispose of their char to be 
 potted, after which they are despatched to the 
 south and other parts of the kingdom. The liead 
 of the lake is commanded by toAvering moun- 
 tains, but the hills on each side are of a tamer 
 character, and are, for the most part, covered with 
 wood. The principal feeder falls into the lake, at 
 its upper end, being the united streams of the 
 Rothay and Brathay (the former running from 
 Rydal "Water, and the latter from Elterwater), 
 besides which Esthwaite Lake empties itself at 
 Cunsey, Blelham Tarn, near to Brathay, and the 
 diiferent vallies pour forth their tributary streams. 
 The only outlet is at Newby Bridge, where the 
 river takes the name of Leven, and after passing 
 through Backbarrow, where it puts in motion the 
 machinery of a large cotton manufactory, and Low 
 Wood, where are some extensive powder-woi'ks, it 
 mingles ■with the channel in Morecambe Bay. 
 
 One of the most attractive features of the lake 
 are its islands. South of the Ferry Inn, com- 
 mencing with the most southerly, are Blake Holm, 
 Grass Holm, Ling Holm, and Ramps Holm, or 
 Berkshire Island (the property of Lady Howard, of 
 Levens Hall) ; thence proceeding northward are 
 Crow Holm, Belle Isle (already mentioned), two 
 Lily-of-the -Valley Holms (so called from pro- 
 ducing that favourite flower), Thompson's Holm, 
 House Holm, Hen Holm (belonging to Mr. Clay, 
 of Croft Lodge), Lady Holm (on which once stood 
 a chapel, or oratory, dedicated to the Virgin, and 
 now the property of Mrs. Watson, of Calgarth), 
 and, lastly. Rough Holm, belonging to Mr. Fleming 
 of Rayrigg. These islands, shaded Avith trees, and 
 scattered like beauty spots over the surface of the 
 lake, are in summer resorted to by many a gay and
 
 12 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 blithesome pic-nic party, who here, separated from 
 the noise and turmoil of tlie world, and surrounded 
 by scenes of grandeur and loveliness, can pass the 
 delightful hour in pleasant converse, with 
 
 " Sport that wrinkled care derides , 
 And laughter holding both his sides." 
 
 The aquatic excursionist in sailing over the lake 
 may feast his eyes on scenes of varied and in- 
 describable richness. Towards the head the tower- 
 ing mountains of Langdale and Rydal may be seen 
 from various positions, each altering their appear- 
 ance. Green, who was himself a landscape painter, 
 points out " a fascinating course by skirting the 
 deeply-indented coast at Brathay into Pull Wyke, 
 a pretty bay, surrounded by rich woods, over which 
 peep the Loughrigg and other elevated summits, 
 and from Pull Wyke by the grounds at Low Wray 
 to the craggy and wooded promontory a little 
 southward." The promontory here spoken of is 
 nearly opposite the Low Wood Inn, and in passing 
 between these places the hills at the head of the 
 lake are seen to great advantage. Further south- 
 ward the views lose some of their grandeur, but 
 from many places in the vicinity of the islands 
 they are perhaps even more beautiful and enchant- 
 ing. 
 
 As regards the views which may be obtained 
 from the shores, we will briefly advert to them in 
 mentioning those places which the tourist would 
 come in contact with in making a circuit of the 
 lake. Making Ambleside the starting place, and 
 proceeding on the western side, the traveller passes, 
 to the right, about three quarters of a mile from 
 the town. Croft Lodge, the property of Mr. Clay, 
 from the steep wooded hills behind which, inter- 
 sected by paths, the lake may be seen as far as
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 13 
 
 Bowness ; thence passing through Clappersgate he 
 crosses Brathay Biidge, and shortly after leaves 
 Brathay Hall, the seat of G. Redmayne, Esq., to 
 the left, and Brathay Chapel, a neat edifice lately 
 erected by the last-named gentleman, to the right. 
 Pull Wyke, a bay stretching some distance inland, 
 is then passed, where a fine view of the opposite 
 shore is obtained, and shortly after the road to 
 Hawkshead is left to the right, and Wray Castle 
 is seen at some distance before him. Standing on 
 the summit of a pleasant eminence this magnificent 
 building forms a conspicuous object in many of the 
 views from the upper portion of the lake. Its style' 
 of architecture is apt to remind one of the feudal 
 times, when every wealthy gentleman acted the 
 part of a petty prince, having a number of stalwart 
 retainers to defend his pretensions from loop-hole, 
 battlement, and tower. It has been lately built by 
 J. Dawson, Esq., physician ; and from the tasteful 
 manner in which the grounds are laid out, and the 
 extensive prospects it commands, is likely to be- 
 come one of the most desirable places in the district. 
 A mile further is the village of High Wray, where 
 is the residence of W. Wilson, Esq., from which 
 place to the Ferry Inn, a distance of three miles, 
 the road winds through exuberant woods, about 
 half-way passing close to Belle Grange, the seat of 
 Edward Curwen, Esq. 
 
 Arrived at the Ferry Inn, a well-conducted 
 establishment, the Station House should not be 
 overlooked. It is situated on the brow of the wood- 
 clad hill above the inn, and admirable views of the 
 lake and its islands are obtained from it. The inn 
 itself is placed on the point of a woody promontory, 
 overshaded by large trees, and diametrically oppo- 
 site to a strait " nab," or promontory, on the other 
 side, between which places passengers, horses, carts,
 
 14 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 carriages, &c. are regularly lei-rieJ over. Proceed- 
 ing onward the roa d runs through Cunsey (one and 
 a half miles from the inn), crossing Cunsey Beck, 
 which issues from Esthwaite Lake and enters Win- 
 dermere at this place. 
 
 Two miles further, a somewhat uneasy road, 
 through coppice woods, from which, however, may 
 be had some excellent retrospects, brings the tourist 
 to Graythwaite Hall, the property of and inhabited 
 by Myies Sandys, Esq., the descendant of an ancient 
 family of that name. The mansion has lately been 
 enlarged, and the alterations have greatly improved 
 its appearance. An intervening hill completely 
 hides it from the lake, and the prospect from the 
 front is only limited. Near to this place is also 
 the residence of J. J. Rawlinson, Esq., situated so 
 as to overlook the lake for a considerable distance. 
 From Graythwaite to Newby Bridge the road 
 passes through Stott Park, leaving the sylvan vale 
 of Finsthwaite to the right, and to the left, nearly 
 at the foot of the lake, a neat retired villa called 
 The Landing, which, with the adjoining groimds, 
 is now the property of Myles Harrison, Esq. At 
 Newby Bridge, which may be considered the foot 
 of the lake, the Swan Hotel affords every con- 
 venience for visiters, having always in readiness 
 conveyances, boats, &c., and also suitable apart- 
 ments for those who wish to make a temporary 
 stay. By this route the distance is from Ambleside 
 to Ferry Inn eight miles, and from Ferry Inn to 
 Newby Bridge seven miles. 
 
 Tourists staying at NcAvby Bridge may procure 
 a fine view of the surrounding country by visiting 
 the " Tower," built by the late Mr. King, on the 
 highest part of an adjacent hill to the west, the 
 foot-path to which winds its Avay through stunted 
 coppice, having around the music of the woodland
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 15 
 
 songsters, and below the never-ceasing murmur of 
 the Leven. 
 
 From Newby Bridge to Bowness is somewhere 
 about nine miles. Crossing the river Leven the 
 residence of James Machell, Esq., is seen fronting 
 up the lake. Immediately afterwards, leaving the 
 main road to Milnthorpe, Lancaster, &c., and in- 
 clining to the lake, the village of Staveley is left at 
 the foot of the hill to the right. The road taking 
 a nortlnvard direction at Fell Foot (a fine building 
 belonging to j\Ir. Ashley, from the grounds in front 
 of which a considerable portion of the lake may be 
 seen) passes close to Town Head (W. Townley, 
 Esq.), and skirts along the base of Gummershow, 
 Should the visiter ascend this hiU, which is clad 
 with firs to its very summit, on some fine clear 
 day, his eyes will rest upon a diversified prospect of 
 great extent. To the soutli and south-west are the 
 vale and town of Cartmel (in which the ancient 
 church or priory is easily distinguished), and the 
 bay of ]Morecanibe, with the adjacent coast of Low 
 Furness ; while to the north outstretches the lake 
 with its group of islands, and the hills rising at its 
 head, and extending far back, Avith swelling outlines 
 that seem to hold communion with the skies. The 
 road from here runs principally through woods, 
 never wandering far from the sinuous margin of the 
 lake, and passes near to Gill Head, Storrs Hall, 
 Bellfield, and other villas more in the vicinity of 
 Bowness. 
 
 From Bowness to Ambleside is a distance of six 
 miles — rich in its scenery, and interesting in its 
 associations. Not far from the village the road 
 enters the woods of Rayrigg, and Rayrigg House is 
 seen at the edge of the lake. Here AYm. Wilber- 
 force, whose exertions for the cause of humanity 
 have made his name familiar to his countrymen,
 
 16 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 resided for several summers. Between this place 
 and where the Kendal and Ambleside road is 
 joined, are had those splendid views already spoken 
 of in a preceding page. A mile from this junction 
 is Troutbeck Bridge, near to which is Calgarth 
 Park, an old building once inhabited by the Philip- 
 sons.* Two miles further is Low Wood Inn, a 
 place where a number of tourists take up their 
 quarters, and from its situation is admirably adapted 
 for those who wish to make excursions in the neigh- 
 bourhood. Regattas, wrestling, &c., once so cele- 
 brated, still continued to take place here and at the 
 Ferry Inn, but they are not so well supported as 
 formerly, and are perhaps infei'ior in point of at- 
 traction. Across the lake, Wray Castle, previously 
 referred to, is a prominent object. A little above 
 the inn is Dove's Nest, the chosen abode, in the 
 summer of 1830, of IVIrs. Hemans, the poetess, who 
 here, with her three sons, 
 
 " Sought from the gazing throng to hide," 
 
 and not a few of the visiters direct their steps ta 
 the spot, which the most delightful of all our Eng- 
 lish poetesses selected for her habitation. Proceed- 
 ino- ouAvard several elegant mansions are passed 
 about the head of the lake, about a mile after which 
 
 • Not long ago in a window of this hall were deposited two 
 human skulls, which were always looked on by the inhabitants 
 of the neighbourhood as being indestructible. They had, according 
 to report, teen often removed to a distance, or burnt to powder, and 
 never failed to make their re-appearance, unharmed, in the same 
 window. The country people attributed their presence to various 
 causes, the most popular being that some diabolical act had been 
 committed here, and that these were the imperishable remnants of 
 some murdered persons. On that account they were viewed with a 
 strange kind of awe. and were visited by young and old for several 
 miles round. This credulity, however, has now vanished, and the 
 jnouldering hand of time has done what it once was believed human 
 efforts were unable to accomplish.
 
 TUK KNULISH LAKK6. 
 
 17 
 
 Ambleside, the reputed emporium of the district, is 
 entered. 
 
 To pedestrians or horsemen an excursion through 
 the vale of Troutbeck would be found to be highly 
 interesting. The valley may be entered from Bow- 
 ness at Cook's House, where the road crosses that 
 to Kendal, or from Ambleside by a road branching off 
 near to the Low "Wood Inn, either of which enables 
 the tourist to procure perhaps finer prospects of 
 Windermere and its islands than are to be had from 
 any other quarter. The road from Bowness along 
 the eastern banks of the river passes St. Catharine's 
 (the Earl of Bradford) and The Howe (Captain. 
 Wilson, R.N.), and is connected with that on the 
 western side at the chapel, about two miles up the 
 valley. The latter road, however, is generally 
 preferred, as it passes through the long village, with 
 its picturesque houses, so much admired by the 
 artist. Half a mile from the chapel is an inn, 
 called the " Mortal Man," where the traveller can 
 rest and regale himself. The celebrated Canning, 
 while on a visit here, is known to have sat on 
 horseback at the door of this inn (while his friends 
 were inside) for upwards of half an hour, wTapt in 
 profound contemplation, and apparently unconscious 
 of what was passing around him. The road from 
 here northward leads to Patterdale and Ullswater, 
 leaving on the right High Street, Hill Bell, and 
 other mountains, and passing close to Brothers 
 Water. The river, which rises in High Street, is 
 enriched by deep sylvan banks, and near to Trout- 
 beck Bridge, "meeting many rough impediments, 
 rolls furiously down a deep ravine." The inhabi 
 tants of Troutbeck retain many of those customs 
 which may be said to be indigenous, and their un- 
 affected manners and genuine hospitality bear some 
 resemblance to that displayed by their progenitors,
 
 18 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 the ancient yeomanry ol this country. Troutbeck 
 is the birth-place of the father of Hogarth, the 
 painter. 
 
 Should the tourist have an opportunity he would 
 be highly delighted by a sail on the lake by moon- 
 light. On such an occasion he seems suspended be- 
 tween two skies, moon and stars shining as bril- 
 liantly in the firmament below as in that above, and 
 the natural beauties by which he is surrounded ai'e 
 reflected in the translucent depths beneath. And 
 not unfrequently at such times does the sound of 
 music — artless perhaps, but not less thrilling — 
 fall upon the ear; perchance some mild vocal strain 
 from the shore, echoing through the exuberant 
 woods which deck the hills on each side, or the 
 more sonorous tones of instruments from the bosom 
 of the lake, rebounding from one mountain top to 
 another, until they die away in the distance. By 
 listening to music in such a situation, and gazing 
 awhile on the enchanting scenery, the mind becomes 
 imbued with something like that holy calm Avhich 
 pervades all aroimd, and the soul is led to yearn 
 for something higher and purer than exists in 
 worldly appetites and cravings. It leaves the mean 
 and sordid, and soars aloft amid images of beauty, 
 purity, and perfection. 
 
 The tourist desirous of visiting Cartmel, Ulver- 
 ston, Furness Abbey, &c. might do so from Newby 
 Bridge, first going to Cartmel, then crossing the 
 sands to Ulverston, and then returning to Amble- 
 side by way of Coniston. We will here give a 
 concise description of this route. 
 
 The distance from Newby Bridge to Cartmel is 
 about five miles. The town is only remarkable for 
 its church or priory, a noble edifice, founded by 
 William Mareschall, the elder, Earl of Pembroke, 
 in 1188, and displacing the parish church which
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 19 
 
 Stood here before the conquest. Formerly it be- 
 longed to a priory of the regular canons of St. 
 Augustine. It is constructed in the pointed style 
 of architecture, and is of a cruciform shape. The 
 interior is supported by four clustered pilasters, 
 and the choir has a number of stalls, beautifully 
 carved, and exhibiting at the top the instruments 
 of our Sa^•iours passion. There are some ancient 
 monuments also in the interior, and the library 
 possesses a few antique tomes, amongst the rest 
 a fine copy of the interesting letters of King 
 Charles I. At the general suppression of the 
 monastic institutions by Henry VlIL. being a 
 parochial as well as conventual church, it was pur- 
 chased by the inhabitants for a trilling consideration, 
 and hence was preserved fi-om the general wreck, 
 and remains an honour and ornament to the place. 
 
 From Cartmel to Ulverston, over the sands, is 
 somewhere about six miles, the road passing near 
 to Holker Hall, the seat of the Earl of Burlington. 
 Ulverston contains a population of about 5,000; 
 has a short canal which, at ebb-tide, enables vessels 
 of small burden to approach close to the town ; 
 possesses two episcopal churches, with other places of 
 worship; a Theatre, Assembly Eoom, Savings' Bank, 
 and other public buildings ; and has several inns 
 noted for their hospitality and attention to strangers, 
 the principal of which are the Sun and Braddyll's 
 Arms. Being situated in the centre of a fertile 
 country, its market, which is held on a Thursday, 
 is considerable, and it may in every respect be re- 
 garded as the capital of Furness. Two miles south of 
 the town is Conishead Priory (T. R. G. Braddyll, 
 Esq.). decidedly one of the prettiest places in the 
 country. A little further is the village of Bardsea, 
 to which place steamers from Fleetwood ply daily 
 during the summer months, 
 c 2
 
 20 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 From Ulverston to Furness Abbey, by way of 
 Dalton* (the ancient emporium of Furness), is up- 
 wards of six miles, passing on the way some exten- 
 sive iron ore mines. The Abbey is situated in the 
 narrow and secluded " Glen of Deadly Nightshade," 
 and the extent of the magnificent ruins bear ample 
 testimony of the vast size it has once been. It was 
 founded in 1127 by Stephen, Earl of Mortaign and 
 Boulogne, and afterwards King of England, and is 
 said to have been second in point of magnitude among 
 the monastic establishments belonging to the Cister- 
 cians. At the dissolution of monasteries it shared 
 the fate of others, and fell a sacrifice to the avarice of 
 the king. The walls of some portions of the building 
 yet remain, attesting the richness of the gothic archi- 
 tecture and the stability of the workmanship. A fine 
 view of these sublime ruins may be had from an 
 eminence on the eastern side, and equally captivating 
 is that which is seen on first entering the grounds, 
 where, "having passed some modern buildings which 
 are not much in harmony with the character of the 
 scene, we obtain an affecting view of the venerable 
 ruins, having in their front a grassy area, ornamented 
 with an antique dial stand, and enclosed on every 
 side by fine groves of every species of trees. In 
 advancing we gaze with transport upon the great 
 northern window ; upon broken arches and stately 
 walls beyond, glimpses of which are caught through 
 the gaping casements ; and, finally, upon the belfry, 
 standing in lonely and gloomy magnificence in 
 a nook of the wood-covered hills that close the 
 scene towards the west." f A railway is now open 
 
 * Romney, the distinguished painter, whose works grace many of 
 the gentlemen's seats in this part, was born near to this place, and 
 for some time followed the profession of his father, who was a 
 cabinet-maker. 
 
 t Evans's Furness and Furnp«s Abbey.
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 21 
 
 from Daltou to Barrow, at the southern extremity 
 of Furness, and a hotel has been erected at the 
 Abbey Station for the convenience of visiters, 
 where they meet with every requisite. 
 
 The tourist may return to Ulverston by way of 
 Urs^vick, in the xdcinage of which are some Druidi- 
 cal vestiges, afterwards passing Swartmoor Hall, 
 once the residence of George Fox, the first of the 
 Quakers, who built a Friends' meeting-house at 
 this place, which bears the date 1688, and was 
 probably the first of the kind. From Ulverston 
 the road passes through Greenodd, thence proceeds 
 up the left bank of the river Crake to Lo^^^ck, 
 from whence it pursues the right bank to its source, 
 Coniston Water, which will shortly be described. 
 
 From BoA\Tiess to Coniston, by way of Hawks- 
 head, is a distance of nearly ten miles. After 
 crossing the Ferry the tourist passes through the 
 hamlets of Far and Near Sa-\vi-ey, the latter being a 
 picturesque object at the foot of Esthwaite Lake, 
 fi-om whence the tom-ist may, at his option, pursue 
 his course either on the eastern or western side. 
 The length of the lake is about two miles, and its 
 breadth never exceeds half a mile. There are two 
 circular peninsulas, one on each side, which, to a 
 distant observer, have the appearance of islands, 
 and are in fact only connected to the shore by a 
 very narrow neck or strip of land. On the eastern 
 side is Lake Field (Mr. Ogden), and Lake Bank 
 (Mr. Badley); on the western side is Esthwaite 
 Hall, once the family seat of the Sandys, and now 
 a farm-house, and Esthwaite Lodge, the residence 
 of JVIrs. Beck (widow of the late T. A. Beck, Esq., 
 author of a splendidly-illustrated work entitled 
 " Annales Fumesienses," and also an eminent me- 
 teorologist) ; and not far from the upper end the 
 village of Colthouse. Still nearer the head is a 
 c 3
 
 22 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 tarn, whereon a small island, in high winds floats 
 from one side to the other. 
 
 The town of Hawkshead contains about 800 in- 
 habitants. It has a Free Grammar School, founded 
 by EdAvyne Sandys, Archbishop of York, a native 
 of this part, in the year 1585, and was till within 
 half a century back resorted to by students from 
 various parts of the kingdom, and boasts of having 
 educated, while under the superintendence of Mr. 
 Bowman, the poet Wordsworth, his brother, and 
 other eminent characters. In addition to the cele- 
 brity which it gained from its excellent school, and 
 the benefits which accrued from the influx of so 
 many scholars, Hawkshead formerly had a con- 
 siderable market for the sale of woollen yarns, and 
 its fairs were remarkable for the immense number 
 of servants regularly hired at them — masters and 
 servants flocking in from a gi-eat distance for that 
 purpose. At that period (which is well remembered 
 by aged persons still living in the neighbourhood) 
 in North Lancashire and Westmorland every family 
 were in the habit of carding and spinning the wool 
 obtained from their own flock, some of which was, 
 in the first place, taken to supply their own neces- 
 sities, and the remainder sold to purchasers in the 
 Hawkshead market. But modern inventions have 
 annihilated the old spinning wheel, and those 
 changes which have had such an influence over 
 society, and conduced principally to the rise and 
 progress of other places, have been the means of 
 depriving Hawkshead of its popularity and im- 
 portance. The church, a fine old building, dedi- 
 cated to St. IVIichael, stands on an eminence on the 
 southern side, from whence may be had a pleasant 
 view of the adjacent valley and the Lake of Es- 
 thwaite. Conveyances may be procured at the Red 
 Lion, and comfortable accommodations may be
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 23 
 
 found at that and the other inns. The distance 
 from Hawkshead to Ambleside is five miles, to 
 Coniston Waterhead three miles, to Newby Bridge 
 eight miles, and to Ulverston sixteen miles. 
 
 About half a mile from Hawkshead the road to 
 Coniston diverges from that to Ambleside at Hawks- 
 head HaU, an ancient building, where, during the 
 existence of Furness Abbey, the abbot's baililF exer- 
 cised temjjoral jurisdiction, in a room still to be 
 seen above the gateway ; and a few clerical monks, 
 whose duty it was to perform divine service in the 
 church and attend to the spiritual necessities of the 
 neighbourhood, were also located here. At a little 
 distance to the right is Bellemont (Dr. Whittaker), 
 commanding a good view of the vale and lake of 
 Esthwaite, and the country in that direction, as far 
 as Gummershow, at the foot of Windermere. In 
 ascending the hill between this place and Coniston 
 are seen the mountains at the head of Windermere 
 — Loughrigg, Rydal Fell, Fairfield, Kirkstone, and 
 still further southward Wansfell, and Hill Bell. On 
 descending, the vale, lake, and village of Coniston 
 meet the eye, closed in by the Old Man and other 
 abrupt hills to the west. Before reaching the level, 
 Waterhead House (the property of J. Marshall, 
 Esq.) is passed on the left, and soon afterwards is 
 reached Waterhead Inn, at the head of the lake, 
 where tourists can be supplied with boats, convey- 
 ances, guides, &c. A little further is the village of 
 Church Coniston, where are also two inns (the 
 Crown and Black Bull), where visiters may also 
 meet with comfortable quarters and other requisites. 
 The Waterhead Inn is upwards of seven miles from 
 Ambleside, and nearly sixteen from Ulverston. 
 
 Coniston, or Thurston AVater, is six miles in 
 length, and in some places measures three quarters 
 of a mile in breadth. Its margin is regular, and 
 c 4
 
 24 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 not SO diversified as that of Windermere, while its 
 surface is only adorned by two small islands (near 
 to the eastern shore), whose appearance are not cal- 
 culated to add much to the beauty of the lake. Its 
 waters supply trout, char, &c., the last-named being 
 considered larger and of a finer quality than any 
 to be found in the kingdom. A stream running 
 from Yewdale, and another from Tilberthwaite, are 
 its principal feeders, but it has also some smaller 
 tributai-ies flowing from the tarns — Levers Water, 
 Lows Water, and Goats Water — on the sides of 
 the Old Man mountain. The outlet is called the 
 Crake, which after passing through Lowick, Spark 
 Bridge, and Penny Bridge, where its waters are 
 turned to account, it unites with the Leven, from 
 Windermere, on the sands at Greenodd. 
 
 Like Windermere, it has a carriage road running 
 entirely round its margin. Looking from towards 
 the foot on this road the scenery surpasses any thing 
 in the lake district for grandeur and sublimity, 
 particularly if viewed from the eastern shore. 
 Commencing at the southern end on this side we 
 pass through the hamlet of Nibthwaite, near which 
 is Water Park (R. Town, Esq.), and then succes- 
 sively by Brentwood Cottage, Coniston Bank, and 
 Tent Lodge, once the abode of Elizabeth Smith, 
 the eminent Hebrew scholar and poetess. The 
 high hills of Coniston, and the steep craggy heights 
 of Yewdale, are conspicuous objects on this side, 
 and near to the head may be had a good view of 
 the village of Coniston, and Coniston Hall, the an- 
 cient seat of the Flemings, now at Rydal. On the 
 western side are the hamlets of Blawith and Tor- 
 ver. 
 
 Fine views may also be obtained from the surface 
 of the lake. West speaks of a place about two miles 
 from the head, where, "looking towards the moun-
 
 THE ENGLISH 1<AKE!?. 25 
 
 tains, the lake spreads itself into a noble expanse of 
 transparent water, and bursts into a bay on each 
 side, bordered \\'ith verdant meadows, and inclosed 
 with a variety of grounds, rising in an exceedingly 
 bold manner. The objects are beautifully diversi- 
 fied amongst themselves, and contrasted by the 
 finest exhibition of rural elegance (cultivation and 
 pasturage, waving woods and sloping inclosures, 
 adorned by nature and improved by art), under the 
 bold sides of stupendous mountains, whose airy 
 summits the elevated eye cannot now reach, and 
 which almost deny access to the human kind." 
 
 Several highly interesting rambles may be made 
 from Coniston. To the northward lie the vales of 
 Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, the former remarkable 
 for its crags and venerable tree, and the latter 
 having extensive slate quarries amongst its woods 
 and wild sceneiy. 
 
 The ascent to the Old Man (probably so called 
 from the pile of stones on its summit) is a somewhat 
 difficult and fatiguing task, but when once achieved 
 the labour is soon forgotten, and the attention 
 rivetted to the varied and far-extending prospects 
 which present themselves to the eye of the specta- 
 tor. To the northward are rocky and majestic 
 mountains of different altitudes, while in the oppo- 
 site direction, there being no interposing obstacles, 
 the eye can range along the bays and promontories 
 of the Lancashire and part of the Cumberland coast 
 — can see the small islands at the southern ex- 
 tremity of Fiu-ness, with the Isle of Man, and, on a 
 fine clear day, the dim outlines of Snowdon and 
 other "Welch mountains. On the eastern side are 
 seen the vale and lake of Coniston, ^\'ith a portion 
 of Windermere. The estimated height is 2,477 
 feet. The easiest ascent is by way of Torver, but 
 the nearest from Coniston is past the copper mines
 
 26 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 and slate quarries, the former of which have been 
 worked from time immemorial, with the exception 
 of a brief period during the time of the civil wars, 
 and at present employ a large number of workmen. 
 Veins of the same mineral run in opposite direc- 
 tions, one portion extending towards Seathwaite, 
 and the other towards Hawkshead, but this is the 
 only place where any profitable attempts have been 
 made to work them. 
 
 Another exceedingly pleasant trip might be made 
 into the vales of Seathwaite and Dunnerdale, on the 
 banks of the river Duddon, a distance of five milesj 
 by way of Walna Scar. The last-named valley 
 is embosomed amid rude and sublime mountain 
 scenery ; and not one of its least interesting objects 
 is its small chapel, where the " wonderful Walker"* 
 
 » The Rev. Robert Walker, the excellent person'here alluded to, 
 was born at Under Crag, in Seathwaite, in 1709. He was the 
 youngest of twelve children, and, being of a weak constitution 
 his parents contrived to give him a limited education. This 
 done he became master of a school at Lowes Water, where, by 
 the assistance of some neighbouring gentlemen, he gained such a 
 knowledge of the classics as enabled him to take holy orders. 
 These obtained, he was installed in the curacy of Seathwaite, 
 which at that time yielded him five pounds per annum. Having 
 received forty pounds with his wife he furnished the parsonage 
 with it, and entered upon his duties. In addition to his meagre 
 salary, he received a trifle for teaching a school, which he did 
 within the rails of the altar, at the same time attending to his 
 spinning-wheel. By a life of unexampled industry and frugality 
 he succeeded in bringing up a large family, and setting them 
 forward in the world, and at his death, in 1802, was possessed of 
 two thousand pound in money, besides a number of webs of linen 
 and woollen of his own spinning. This was not the fruit of 
 avarice ; for his hand was ever ready to assist the poor and 
 nect'ssitous, and even what he received for teaching school was 
 given voluntarily, no charge being made. He was universally 
 revered, and his opinion on matters of importance sought after 
 for a considerable di.stance. His disinterested and self-denying 
 qualities may be traced in tlie following answer to the Bishop of 
 Chester, when offered the curacy of Ulplia in addition to his own. 
 —"The chapel of Seathwaite and Ulpha annexed together would
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. -' 
 
 (a name familiar to the readers of Wordsworth) per- 
 formed the duties of his callina: : — 
 
 " Whose good works formed an endless retinue ; 
 A pastor such as Chaucer's verse pourtrays ; 
 Such as the heaven-taught skill of Herbert drew ; 
 And tender Goldsmith crowned with deathless praise." 
 
 The Duddon has its rise on Bowfell, and after 
 meandering through a picturesque and romantic 
 tract of country enters the Duddon Sands near 
 Broughton-in-Furness. Wordsworth has composed 
 several sonnets on this river, the following of which, 
 representing its peaceful and troubled character, we 
 fiave been tempted to transcribe : — 
 
 " The old inventive poets had they seen. 
 Or rather felt the entrancement that detains 
 Thy waters, Duddon ! 'mid these flowery plains, 
 The still repose, the liquid lapse serene. 
 Transferred to bowers imperishably green. 
 Had beautified Elysium ! But these chains 
 Will soon be broken ; — a rough course remains. 
 Rough as the past ; where. Thou of placid mien, 
 Innocuous as the firstling of the flock, 
 And countenanced like a soft cerulean sky, 
 Shalt change thy temper, and with many a shock 
 Given and received in mutual jeopardy. 
 Dance, like a Bacchanal, from rock to rock. 
 Tossing her frantic thyrsus wide and high." 
 
 From Coniston the next move is generally to 
 Ambleside (eight mUes), portions of which road 
 have already been spoken of. Ambleside is an an- 
 cient chartered town, and contains a population of 
 upwards of one thousand. Its streets have a cou- 
 fiised and iiTegular appearance, but, being built on 
 an elevated ground, command good prospects of the 
 adjoining country. The leading inns are the Salu- 
 
 be apt to cause a general discontent among the inhabitants of 
 both places ; by either thinking themselves slighted, being only 
 served alternately, or neglected in the duty, or attributing it to 
 covetousness in me ; all which occasions of murmuring I would 
 willingly avoid."
 
 28 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 tation and Commercial, besides which there are 
 others where travellers can be accommodated, as 
 well as at a number of private houses, specially 
 fitted up for lake visiters. Boats of various kinds 
 are kept by the dilFerent inns for the convenience 
 of tourists. The vicinage in every direction is 
 adorned by a number of pretty villas, and the 
 various little walks in the neighbourhood abound 
 with rich and enchanting scenery. A very in- 
 teresting ceremony, called the Rush-bearing, takes 
 place at Ambleside annually, on the eve of the 
 last Sunday in July, being probably the relic o^ 
 some ancient custom which has now, with one or 
 two exceptions, fallen into desuetude. On the day 
 in question the girls of the town and its neighbour- 
 hood, preceded by music, carry garlands of flowers 
 to the church, whei'e they are tastefully deposited 
 until the following day, when a sermon is preached 
 befitting the occasion. On a fine bright day this 
 exhibition has a very lively and picturesque ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 From Ambleside numerous excursions may be 
 made in different directions, which for variety and 
 interest are not to be excelled in the lake district. 
 We will first speak of that through the Langdales 
 by way of Skelwith Bridge, a road, however, it 
 should be remembered, that is only passable for 
 light conveyances. After passing through Clap- 
 persgate the tourist may either proceed on the right 
 or left bank of the river Brathay to Skelwnth Bridge 
 (three miles), where there is an inn, and a little 
 further up the river, Skelwith Force, a cascade of 
 moderate height, but always having a plentiful sup- 
 ply of water, and encompassed by splendid scenery. 
 A mile further there is a tine view of Eltei-water, 
 shortly after which the road passes through Col- 
 with Bridge, and near to Cohvith Force, another
 
 THE ENliLISH LAKES. 
 
 29 
 
 cascade with a fall of nearly seventy feet. Instead 
 of taking the road to Elterwater at this place it is 
 usual to proceed by Little Langdale Tarn to Blea 
 Tarn (five miles from Skehvith Bridge), situated in 
 
 " A little lowly vale — 
 A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high 
 Among the mountains." 
 
 This place has been faithfully depicted by Words- 
 worth, in his " Excursion," 
 
 " A spot that lies 
 Among yon mountain fastnesses concealed," 
 
 and is the abode of his " Solitary." Leaving this tarn 
 to the left, the road shortly begins to descend steeply 
 into Great Langdale, which from this position, is a 
 beautiful object, and the Langdale Pikes present 
 themselves in towering magnificence These pecu- 
 liarly-formed mountains are named the Pike of 
 Stickle and Harrison Stickle, the latter being 2,400 
 feet above the level of the sea, and commanding 
 some good pro.spects towards Rydal and the head of 
 Windermere, Avhile from the summit of its neigh 
 hour may be seen Bassenthwaite Lake, ^^^th Skid- 
 daw and other hills in that direction. Between 
 these two hills flows a stream, which at one place 
 falls through a deep chasm a height of sixty feet, 
 having over it a natural arch. This is called Dun- 
 geon Gill, and is the scene of Wordsworth's " Idle 
 Shepherd Boys," where 
 
 " Into a chasm a mighty block 
 Hath fallen and made a bridge of rock. 
 The gulph is deep below, 
 And in a basin black and small, 
 Receives a lofty waterfall." 
 
 Returning down Great Langdale the road passes 
 the extensive slate quarries at Thrang Crag, and 
 shortly afterwards the chapel, where the lamented 
 Owen Lloyd officiated for twelve years. In the 
 chapel-yard there is a poetical epitaph, composed
 
 30 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 by Wordsworth, to his memory. The distance 
 from here to Ambleside is somewhere about five 
 miles. The road generally preferred branches from 
 that to Loughrigg to the left at a short distance 
 from the chapel, and in ascending the hill views 
 of Langdale, Elterwater, Loughrigg Tarn, and a 
 portion of Windermere are obtained. When the 
 summit is gained the vale of Grasmere, 
 
 ■' Tranquil and shut out 
 From all the strife that shakes a jarring world," 
 
 is presented to the eye ; but the road leaves the 
 valley to the left, and passes Rydal Water on the 
 same side, near to which it joins the turnpike, and 
 a mile further brings you once more to Ambleside. 
 The other road, which is the only one practicable 
 for carriages, passes by the powder mills near to 
 Elterwater, thence close to Loughrigg Tarn, and 
 afterwards by the river Brathay and through Clap- 
 persgate, a distance about equal to the route men- 
 tioned above, but inferior in the extent and variety 
 of its prospects. 
 
 The short walks in the neighbourhood of Amble- 
 side are of an exceedingly attractive character. A 
 few hundred yards from the town is vStock Gill 
 Force, a cascade, or rather a succession of four 
 cascades, which together fall seventy feet. Stock 
 Gill Beck rises not far from Kirkstone, and in its 
 passage, till it unites with the Rothay, has a num- 
 ber of pretty falls, meandering through rich pic- 
 turesque scenery. " Sometimes," says Green, " con- 
 fined to a narrow channel, the water, impatient of 
 resistance, dashes impetuously down the steep crag 
 to a momentary rest ; but oftener spanning the 
 little channel, in soothing and gentle motion, slips 
 over the smooth rocks, thereby softening into beauty 
 all their original tints by its transparency. The 
 margin of this gill is sometimes low, sometimes
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 31 
 
 swelling, but oftener in steep and grassy banks, or 
 bold projecting rocks rising to a vast height; the 
 native woods in a wild intricacy, impend from the 
 rocks, which are additionally clothed with fern, 
 moss, and other vegetation." 
 
 The pedestrian desirous of taking an extensive 
 view of the country may climb to the summit of 
 Fail-field, nearly three thousand feet above the level 
 of the sea, the way to which passes by Rydal 
 Mount ; or he may ascend Wansfell Pike,* which, 
 although only rising fifteen hundred feet above 
 Windermere, possesses prospects equal to those of its 
 more lofty neighbours. From its summit may be 
 seen Windermere, Grasmere, and Rydal Lakes, the 
 towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead, and at a 
 greater distance portions of Morecambe Bay and 
 the towering hills of Langdale and Coniston ; or a 
 still easier trip might be taken to Loughrigg Fell 
 (1000 feet above Windermere) by way of Clappers- 
 gate, a route which would amply repay the slight 
 difficulties experienced in accomplishing it. 
 
 Those who love to linger among the relics of by- 
 gone ages, and roam in imagination 
 
 " Through the dark backward and abysm of time." 
 
 • Wordsworth has dedicated the following sonnet to this moun- 
 tain : — 
 
 " Wansfell ! this Household has a favoured lot. 
 Living with liberty on thee to gaze, 
 To watch while morn first crowns thee with her rays, 
 Or when along thy breast serenely float 
 Evening's angelic clouds. Yet ne'er a note 
 Hath sounded (shame upon the Bard !) thy praise, 
 For all that thou, as if from heaven, hadst brought 
 Of glory lavished on our quiet days. 
 Bountiful Son of Earth ! when we are gone 
 From every object dear to mortal sight. 
 As soon we shall be, may these words attest 
 How oft, to elevate our spirits, shone 
 Thy visionary majesties of light. 
 How in thy pensive glooms our hearts found rest."
 
 32 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 should visit the Roman station at the head of Win- 
 dermere, some slight traces of which are yet to be 
 discerned. This fort has been ascertained to be the 
 Dictis of the Notitia, and, according to West, was 
 erected for the purpose of protecting some works 
 established here for the refinement of the copper 
 ore procured in High Furness, as well as to super- 
 intend the difiereiit roads on which the metals of 
 this part were conveyed to York. From this place 
 there were undoubtedly roads to Dalton-in-Furness; 
 to the Concangium at Water Crook, near Kendal ; 
 and to Arbeia at Moresby, in Cumberland. The 
 length of the building is stated to have been 396 
 feet, and the breadth 240 feet, being an exact 
 parallelogram, and the shorter side being nearest 
 the lake. Several antique articles have been found 
 at different times, attesting it to have been a Roman 
 foi't, and a small collection of coins found here are 
 now deposited in the library of the University of 
 Oxford. 
 
 From Ambleside the tourist can cross the pass of 
 Kirkstone, 
 
 " Where, save the rugged road, we find 
 No appanage of human kind," 
 
 and proceed by the inn at Patterdale (ten miles) to 
 Ullswater ; but as that lake, as well as the vale, 
 may be best viewed from the other end, we will 
 notice it after describing the route by way of Rydal 
 and Grasmere to Keswick, 
 
 The distance from Ambleside to Rydal, on the 
 Keswick road, is one and a half miles ; but the 
 pedestrian might proceed along the banks of the 
 Rothay, entering the fields at Rothay bridge, a 
 more circuitous route, but one that winds among 
 scenery of a richer and more diversified character. 
 This road passes Fox Ghyll (Hornby Roughsedge, 
 Esq.), Fox Howe (jVIi-s. Arnold), and other tasteful
 
 THE ENGLISH hAKES. ^^ 
 
 villas, and enters the highway a few hundred yards 
 from Rydal. A fine retrospective view may be had 
 of Ambleside, and at dilierent points on this road 
 may be seen Fairfield rising before, and Kirkstone 
 on the right of the traveller, while, still nearer, 
 Rydal Hull and Rydal Mount are attractive objects. 
 
 The pretty village of Rydal is situated at the 
 foot of Rydal Water, in a confined yet exceedingly 
 beautiful valley. The neat chapel which is seen 
 on first entering was built at the sole expense of 
 Lady le Fleming, to Avhom "W^ords worth addressed 
 a poem, on seeing the foundation prepared for its 
 erection. Near to the village, in a splendid park, 
 is Rydal Ilall, the patrimonial seat of the above- 
 named lady. The road leading to the hall passes 
 near to Rydal IMount, the residence of Wordsworth, 
 a correct representation of which will be found in 
 the accompanying engraving. 
 
 The house of the laureate is an unpretending cot- 
 tage-Uke building, partially covered by ivy, and sur- 
 rounded by scenery of incomparable beauty. From 
 the grounds, which have been laid out, and prin- 
 cipally planted, in a tasteful manner, by Words- 
 worth himself, may be had glimpses of AVindermere, 
 and fine views of other parts of the district. In 
 short, the spot is just what the reader of Words- 
 worth might anticipate from his writings, over 
 which no doubt it has shed its genial influence. 
 IMi-s. Sigourney's lines on the occasion of her \-isit 
 to this place bear testimony to the beauty of the 
 country without, and the domestic harmony Avhich 
 prevailed within, the dwelling of the poet : — 
 
 " Thee, too, I found witliin thy sylvan dell. 
 Whose music thrilled my heart when life was new, 
 Wordsworth ! mid cliff and stream and cultured rose> 
 In love with Nature's self, and she with thee. 
 Thy ready hand, that from the landscape culled 
 Its long familiar charms, rock, tree, and spire, 
 D
 
 M HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 Willi kindness half paternal, leading on 
 
 My stranger footsteps through the garden walk. 
 
 Mid shrubs ard flowers that from thy planting grew ; 
 
 The group of dear ones gathering round thy board — 
 
 She, the first friend, still as in youth beloved, 
 
 The daughter, sweet companion, sons mature, 
 
 And favourite grandchild, with his treasured phrase — 
 
 The evening lamp, that o'er thy silver locks 
 
 And ample brow fell fitfully, and touched 
 
 Thy lifted eye with earnestness of thought. 
 
 Are with me as a picture, ne'er to fade. 
 
 Till death shall darken all material things." 
 
 Here, then, in liis rural retreat, surrounded hj 
 exquisite beauty and sublimity, enjoying domestic 
 happiness, peace, and leisure, endowed with rare 
 abilities, and favoured by fortune with the means 
 of pursuing his high avocation, does Wordsworth 
 compose and give to the world those productions 
 which are universally admired and applauded. With 
 a genius to discern what ordinary minds have no 
 conception of, his most touching themes are drawn 
 from common life : he has left the beaten track, and 
 has linked the lowliest and humblest of Nature's pro- 
 ductions to imperishable verse. An eminent writer 
 observes, "the grand truth which pervades his 
 poetry is, that the beautiful is not confined to the 
 rare, the new, the distant, to scenery and modes of 
 life open only to the few ; but that it is poured 
 forth profusely on the common eai'th and sky, that 
 it gleams from the lowliest flower, that it lights up 
 the humblest sphere, that the sweetest affections 
 lodge in holy hearts, that there is sacredness, dig- 
 nity, and loveliness in lives which few eyes rest on, 
 that even in the absence of all intellectual culture, 
 the domestic relations can nourish that disinterested- 
 ness which is the element of all true gi'eatness, and 
 vsdthout which intellectual power is a splendid de- 
 formity, Wordsworth is the poet of humanity ; 
 he teaches reverence for our universal nature ; he
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 35 
 
 breaks down the factitious barriers between human 
 hearts." 
 
 To view the two Avaterfalls at Rydal it is neces- 
 sary to take a conductor from tlie village. The 
 higher is a considerable fall, rolling do-\\ni a perpen- 
 dicular rock, at first much contracted, and afterwards 
 spreading into a broader sheet, and dashing into the 
 dark basin at its foot. The lower fall is viewed 
 from the window of a summer-house, and presents a 
 scene of indescribable beauty. This pretty cascade 
 is thus described by Wordsworth in a juvenile poem 
 entitled " An Evening Walk : " — 
 
 " Then while I wandered wliere the huddling rill 
 Brightens with water-breaks the hollow ghyll 
 As by enchantment, an obscure retreat 
 Opened at once, and stayed my devious feet. 
 While thick about the rill tlie branches close. 
 In rocky basin its wild waves repose, 
 Inverted shrubs, and moss of gloomy green. 
 Cling from the rocks, with pale wood-weeds between ; 
 And its o^vn twilight softens the whole scene. 
 Save where aloft the subtle sunbeams shine 
 On withered briars that o'er the crags recline ; 
 Save where with sparkling foam a small cascade, 
 Illumines, from within, the leafy shade ; 
 Beyond, along the vista of the brook. 
 Where antique roots its bustling course o'erlook, 
 The eye reposes on a secret bridge 
 Half grey, half shagged with ivy to its ridge." 
 
 Mr Gilpin also describes this spot as an excellent 
 subject for the pencil. "The dark colour of the 
 stone, taking still a deeper tinge from the wood 
 which hangs over it, sets off* to wonderful advantage, 
 the sparkling lustre of the stream, and produces an 
 uncommon effect of light. It is this effect, indeed, 
 from which the chief beauty of this little exhibition 
 arises. In every representation truly picturesque, 
 the shade should gi-eatly overbalance the light. The 
 face of nature under the glow of noon, has rarely this 
 beautiful appearance. The artist therefore generally 
 D 2
 
 36 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 courts her cliarms in a morning or an evening hour, 
 when the shadows are deep and extended, and when 
 the sloping sun-beam affords rather a catching, than 
 a glaring light. Here we have an admirable idea of 
 the magical effect of light picturesquely distributed." 
 
 Rydal Water is only about half a mile in length, 
 and its breadth probably not more than four or five 
 hundred yards. Its surface is graced by two small 
 islands, and its banks are adorned by woods and 
 green fields, surmounted by Nab vScar on the North, 
 and Loughrigg Fell on the South. The lake cannot 
 be viewed to advantage from the main road, but 
 better vieAvs may be had by following the foot path 
 to Grasmere, under Nab Scar, or the road under 
 Loughrigg Fell, already spoken of. 
 
 From Rydal to Grasmere (one mile and half on 
 the main road) the tourist passes White Moss Quarry, 
 near to which two old roads branch off" to the right, 
 which the person on foot would find to possess two 
 advantages, being both shorter, and passing over 
 more elevated gi'ound, commanding better prospects 
 of the surrounding scenery. On the lower of these 
 roads is the Wishing Gate, so called from its being 
 believed in the neighbourhood that every thing here 
 wished for is sure to be realised. Wordsworth has 
 written a poem on this gate, from which we extract 
 the following verses : — 
 
 " Yea 1 even the stranger from afar 
 Reclining on the moss grown bar, 
 
 Unknowing and unknown. 
 The infection of the ground partakes. 
 Longing for his beloved, who makes 
 
 All happiness her own. 
 Then why should conscious spirits fear 
 The mystic stirrings that are here. 
 
 The ancient faith disclaim ? 
 The local genius ne'er befriends 
 Designs whose course in folly ends. 
 
 Whose just reward is shame.
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. ^^ 
 
 Smile, if thou wilt, but not in scorn, 
 If some by ceaseless pains outworn, 
 
 Here crave an easier lot ; 
 If some have thirsted to renew 
 A broken vow, or bind a true 
 
 With firmer, holier knot. 
 And not in vain when thoughts are cast 
 Upon the irrevocable past, — 
 
 Some penitent sincere 
 May for a worthier future sigh 
 While trickles from his downcast eye 
 
 No unavailing tear. 
 The worldling pining to be freed 
 From turmoil, who would turn or speed 
 
 The current of Iiis fate, 
 Might stop before this favour'd scene 
 At nature's call, nor blush to lean 
 
 Upon the Wishing Gate." 
 
 The new road skirts along the margin of Gras^ 
 mere lake, which is somewhat larger than Rydal 
 Mere. Being entirely encircled by mountains, it may 
 be viewed with good effect from almost any position, 
 and in this respect differs from most of the other 
 lakes, which are generally seen to the best advan- 
 tage when the spectator is looking from towards 
 the foot. A verdant island of about four acres in 
 extent, rises boldly from the surface, and is used for 
 pasturage. Near to the head of the lake ai*e a few 
 houses, bearing the name of ToAvn End, one of 
 which was inhabited by Wordsworth for eight years, 
 who here composed several of those pieces, which 
 have rendered his name so familiar. That the 
 laiu'eate was greatly attached to this spot may be 
 iirfen-ed from his " Farewell," -written while about 
 to leave for a sliort time, in which he speaks of the 
 
 " Happy garden ! whose seclusion deep 
 Had been so friendly to industrious hours ;" 
 
 but indeed there is scarcely an object of interest in 
 
 the vale but has found a place in his works. One 
 
 of these houses was also once occupied by INIi'. De 
 
 D 3
 
 38 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 Quincey. At Town End the road, deviating to the 
 left, leads to the village of Grasmere, v^here there 
 is an inn, the " Red Lion," which supplies post 
 horses and light conveyances, and a temporary stay 
 can either be made there or at "The Swan," on 
 the Keswick road. A liydropathic establishment 
 flourishes here, under the superintendence of Dr. 
 L. Stummes. The parish church is dedicated to 
 St. Oswald. Overlooking the village, in a pleasant 
 situation, is Allan Bank, a neat villa, occupied by 
 Thomas Dawson, Esq., also once the residence of 
 the poet Wordsworth. 
 
 The beauties of Grasmere have been noticed by 
 several eminent writers, who have at diiferent times 
 visited here. Mr. Gray, in 1769, mentions the 
 " peace, rusticity, and happy poverty " of the vale ; 
 and Housman, West, Gilpin, and Hutchinson have 
 ef»di desci'ibed it according to his peculiar taste and 
 style. Mrs. Hemans speaks of it as a 
 
 " Fair scene 
 Most loved by evening and her dewy star ! 
 Oh ! ne'er may man, with touch unliallowed, jar 
 The perfect music of the cliarm serene." 
 
 Mrs. Sigourney has also recorded her visit to 
 Grasmere in her "Pleasant Memories of Pleasant 
 Lands :" — 
 
 " And thy pure lake. 
 Spreading its waveless breast of azure out 
 'Tween thee and us, pencil, nor lip of man 
 May fitly show its lovliness. The soul 
 Doth hoard it as a gem, and fancy-led 
 Explore its curving shores, its lovely isle, 
 That, like an emerald clasped in crystal, sleeps." 
 
 The tourist stationed at Grasmere might make 
 an excursion to the vale and tarn of Eskdale, the 
 latter being engulphed in the hills between Silver 
 How and Helm Ci'ag. The stream issuing from 
 this tarn flows into Gra.sniere Lake, and not far 
 from its source makes a frotliy waterfall, called
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 39 
 
 Sour Milk Gill. Some hardy pedestrians are in the 
 habit of ascending the Langdale Pikes fi-om this 
 valley, by way of Stickle Tarn, and others j)refer 
 reaching Borrowdale and Keswick either by passing 
 over Codale Fell, or by crossing the Stake Pass. 
 
 Visits might be made fi-om Grasmere into the 
 Langdales, or, by a mountain path of eight miles, 
 to Patterdale and Ullswater. The short Avalks in 
 the immediate vicinity would also be found z'ife in 
 interest. The proximate mountains are Helm Crag, 
 rising to the north, with an exceedingly singular 
 and fantastic apex, which Wordsworth imagines 
 represents an 
 
 " Ancient Woman, 
 Cowering besides her rifted Cell ;" 
 
 Silver How to the West ; and Nab Scar to the east ; 
 while a few miles distant to the north towers Hel- 
 vellyn and Fail-field to the north-east. 
 
 Helvellyn may be ascended on its western side 
 from three places, Grasmere, Wythburn, and Leg- 
 berthwaite ; and, on its eastern side, from Patter- 
 dale. From the first and last named places a por- 
 tion of the way may be traversed on horseback ; 
 but the shortest ascent and the one most frequently 
 made is from Wythburn, and can only be made by 
 persons on foot Helvellyn has been found to be 
 3,055 feet above the level of the sea, and commands 
 better arranged and more extensive prospects than 
 any other mountain in the district, overlooking the 
 principal lakes and mountains for a large circuit, 
 and from some positions having views of the ocean 
 between the hills to the south-west. There are 
 three tarns on Helvellyn — the Red Tarn, one of the 
 highest of the mountain tarns, being upwards of 
 2000 feet above the sea, and covering a space of 
 twenty acres ; Keppel Cove Tarn, situated on the 
 opposite side of S\A'irrel Edge, the stream from which 
 D 4
 
 40 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 unites with that from Red Tarn at the foot of the 
 peak called Catchedecam, together forming the brook 
 of Glenridding ; and Grisedale Tarn, placed at the 
 foot of Helvellyn, Seatsandal, and Fairfield. Trout 
 of superior quality are found in all these Tarns. 
 The pedestrian making the ascent from Patterdale, 
 sometimes passes along Striding Edge, a narrow 
 path, with steep, frightful precipices on each side. 
 It was here that Mr. Charles Gough, of Manchestei-, 
 (one of those lovers of Nature Avho study her in all 
 her forms), met with his death in the spring of 1805. 
 He was attempting to cross over from Patterdale, 
 after a fall of snow, and whether some accident be- 
 fell him, or in this lonely place he fell a victim to 
 hunger, is unknown ; but when found, three months 
 after his loss, a faithful dog that attended him, was 
 keeping watch by the side of his remains, having 
 done so without any apparent sustenance for the 
 whole time. This incident, strikingly exemplifying 
 tlie enduring patience and fidelity of the canine 
 species, has formed the subject of two beautiful 
 poems, one by Scott, and the other by Wordsworth, 
 from the former of Avhich we have extracted the two 
 following verses : — 
 
 " Dark-green was the spot, mid the brown mountain heather, 
 Wliere the Pilgrim of Nature lay stretched in decay. 
 
 Like tlie corpse of an outcast, abandoned to weather, 
 Till the mountain winds wasted tlie tenantless clay, 
 
 Nor yet quite deserted, though lonely extended, 
 
 For, faithful in death, his mute favourite attended. 
 
 The much loved remains of his master defended. 
 And chased the hill fox and tlie raven away. 
 
 *' How long didst thou tliink that his silence was slumber. 
 
 When the wind waved his garments, how oft didst thou start. 
 How many long days and long nights didst thou number. 
 
 Ere he faded before thee, the friend of thy heart. 
 And oh ! was it meet, that — no requiem rea<l o'er him. 
 No mother to weep, and no friend to deplore liim. 
 And thou, little guardian, alone stretched before him,— 
 Unhonourcd the Pilgrim from life should depart."
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 41 
 
 Pursuing the Kes^vick road from Grasmere, the 
 tourist has to ascend Dunmail Raise, a pass of con- 
 siderable elevation, but the lowest in a Ions; chain 
 of mountains, extending from Black Comb in Cum- 
 berland into the county of Durham. From the 
 highest part may be had a fine retrospect of the vale 
 of Grasmere, and the country in that dii-ection for a 
 considerable distance, while in front may be seen 
 the upper portion of Skiddaw. A wall here sepa- 
 rates Cumberland from "Westmorland ; and a larire 
 pile ot stones is supposed to be the cairn of Dunmail, 
 '' last King of rocky Cumberland," who Avas here 
 discomfited by Edmund, the Saxon monarch, about 
 the middle of the tenth century. Shortly after de- 
 scending, the traveller comes in view of Thirlmere 
 or Leathes Water (so called from being the property 
 of T. S. Leathes, Esq., of Dalehead House), before 
 reaching which the road passes between the small 
 humble chapel of "NYythburn and the Horse Head Inn, 
 Avhere a temporary stay is frequently made. From 
 here to Grasmere is upwards of three miles, to Am- 
 bleside a little more than eight miles, and to Keswick 
 about the same distance. Heh'ellyn rises steeply close 
 to the right, and the ascent trom here, being shorter 
 than from any other place, is generally adopted. 
 
 Thirlmere is situated higher than any of the 
 other lakes, being about 500 feet above the sea, 
 and its depth in some places exceeds 100 feet. 
 About the middle the shores ai-e so contracted that 
 a wooden bridge spans from one side to the other, 
 giving it the appearance of two lakes. On the 
 northern part is an island, covei-ed vnth. Avood, of 
 about half an acre extent. Its banks are irregular, 
 and some of the rocky promontories are considered 
 as fine objects. 
 
 Pedestrians sometimes are induced to de\iate 
 from the direct road at this place, and reach Kcs-
 
 42 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 wick by crossing Ai'mboth Fells to Watendlath, 
 and along the banks of Derwent Lake ; but al- 
 though Skiddaw and Helvellyn are seen to ad- 
 vantage, and the mountain scenery is exceedingly 
 grand on this route, yet, as the path is scarcely 
 distinguishable, Avithout a guide, the stranger would 
 be apt to get out of the proper direction, and subject 
 himself to considerable inconvenience. 
 
 Leaving Wythburn, the road passes along the 
 margin of Thirlmere, and shortly after ascending 
 a steep hill, the Vale of St. John is seen before, 
 with Saddleback in the distance. At Legber- 
 thwaite (six miles from Kesmck) there is another 
 inn, where the main road takes a turn to the left, 
 that to the right passing through St. John's Vale 
 to Threlkeld. From the summit of Castlerigg, on 
 the KesAvick road, fine views are obtained of Der- 
 went, and part of Bassenthwaite Lakes, A\ath the 
 town and vale of Keswick, and the surrounding 
 mountains. 
 
 There is another approach to Keswick from Am- 
 Ideside, sometimes made by visiters, viz., over Wry- 
 nose and Hardknott to Wast Water, thence over 
 the Sty Head Pass, a distance of upwards of forty 
 miles. This road passes through Clappersgate, 
 Skelwith, and Colwith Bridges, already noticed, 
 thence past Fell Foot, and over Wrynose, on the 
 summit of which the counties of Cumberland, West- 
 morland, and Lancashire unite, at a place called 
 the Three Shire Stones. Hence it passes Cockley 
 Beck, crossing the vale of Seathwaite, and ascends 
 Hardknott, from whence there is a longer descent 
 into Eskdalc, about half way down which it passes 
 close to the remains of Hardknott Castle. Views 
 of some of the highest of the lake mountains are 
 had fi-om this neighbourhood, and altogether the 
 mountain .^coner)- is of surpassing grandeur. In
 
 
 
 View of Kesiivick.
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 43 
 
 Eskdale there are, at no great distance from the 
 road, tAvo noted Water-falls, Birker Force and 
 Stanley Gill, the fonner " being a stream of water 
 emitted between lofty rocks, and pouring from a 
 great elevation down the hill side in a stripe of 
 foam," and the latter falling " in successive cascades, 
 over granite rocks, which rise on each side to a 
 stupendous height, and are finely ornamented -^vith 
 trees, and fringed wath a profusion of bilbeny, and 
 other plants, rooted in the crevices." * From 
 Eskdale the road proceeds to Santon Bridge, at 
 which place, turning to the right, it passes the 
 Strand, nearly at the foot of AVast AVater, Avhere 
 are two inns aiFording refreshment for the tourist. 
 The distance from Ambleside to this place is twenty 
 two miles. AVast AVater is three miles in length, 
 and upwards of half a mile in breadth. Its depth 
 has never been rightly ascertained, but it is said in 
 some places to exceed five hundred feet. Probably 
 the reason of its never freezing over is on account 
 of its immense depth. The mountains by which 
 it is encircled — the Screes, Scawfell, Seatallan, 
 &c., are majestic and prominent objects. From 
 Wast AVater the road is over Sty Head Pass, the 
 highest in the district, and thence through Sea- 
 thwaite and Bori'owdale to KesA^dck, a distance of 
 somewhere about twenty miles. 
 
 The toA\Ti of Keswick is situated in a large and 
 beautiful valley, a mile from Derwent, and about 
 three miles from Bassenthwaite Lake. It contains 
 about 2,400 inhabitants, and its manufactures are 
 linsey-woolsey stuffs, and black-lead pencils, made 
 from the plumbago procured in the mines of Bor- 
 rowdale. The principal inns are the Royal Oak, 
 Queen's Head, and King's Anns, besides which 
 there are a number of pi-ivate houses where lodg- 
 
 * Otley.
 
 44 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 ings may be had. Tavo museums, kept by Messrs. 
 Hutton and Crosthwaite, are well worth attention, 
 containing many curiosities, local and general, and 
 an assortment of minerals, which are kept on sale. 
 There are also other mineral dealers in the toAvn. 
 A Model of the Lake District, executed by Mr. 
 Flintoff, is an interesting object. Its dimensions 
 are twelve feet nine inches by nine feet three inches, 
 on a scale of three inches to a mile ; and it repre- 
 sents the district with great accuracy and minute- 
 ness, each object being coloured according to nature. 
 In the centre of the town is the Town Hall, the 
 clock-bell in which (brought from Lord's Island) 
 bears the date of 1001. A new church, of a taste- 
 ful construction, was erected here, not long ago, by 
 the late John Marshall, Esq., since which the family 
 of that gentleman has added a school and parsonage 
 house. The parish, or Crosthwaite church, is three 
 quarters of a mile from the town, in a north-west- 
 erly direction, and is dedicated to St. Kentigern. 
 In the interior is a recumbent effigy, in Avhite mar- 
 ble, of the late Dr. Southey, and beneath the fol- 
 lowing inscription by Wordsworth : — 
 " Ye vales and hills whose beauty hither drew 
 The poet's steps, and fixed him here, on you 
 His eyes have closed ! And ye, loved books, no more 
 Shall Southey feed upon your precious lore. 
 To works that ne'er shall forfeit their renown 
 Adding immortal labours of his own — 
 Whether he traced historic truth, with zeal 
 For the State's guidance, or the Church's weal, 
 Or Fancy, disciplined by studious art. 
 Informed his pen, or wisdom of the heart, 
 Or judgments sanctioned in the Patriot's miud 
 By reverence for the rights of all mankind. 
 Wide were his aims, yet in no human breast 
 Could private feelings meet for holier rest. 
 His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud 
 From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven has vowed 
 Tlirough his industrious life, and Christian faith 
 Calmed in his soul the fear of change and death.'
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 i^i 
 
 Keswick may be regarded as a centre from whence 
 exciu'sionary lines branch off in all directions. In 
 the immediate neighbourhood of the town are several 
 neat villas, and the short walks are of an exceedingly 
 delightful chai'acter. Greta Hall, the residence of 
 the late Dr. Southey, is in a pretty situation at the 
 northern end of the town, and near to the Greta river. 
 
 Denvent Water is upwards of three miles in 
 length, and in some places exceeds a mile and a 
 half in breadth. It is beautified by several islands, 
 well wooded, and disposed at agreeable distances. 
 Loi'd's Lsle, the lai'gest, situated under Wallow Ci'ag, 
 contains about six acres, and was, previous to the 
 rebellion in 1715, the selected abode of the family 
 of Derwent water ; but James, the third Eai'l, having 
 engaged in the rebellion, he was in consequence at- 
 tainted and beheaded on Tower Hill, and this island, 
 with the small one now named Rampsholm, as "well 
 as the rest of his estates, w^ere forfeited, and vested 
 in trustees for the support of Gx*eenwich Hospital, 
 from whom they were pm'chased by the late John 
 Marshall, Esq., of Leeds. Vicar's Isle, the residence 
 of James Henry, Esq., is nearly of equal dimensions 
 vnih Lord's Isle, and is adorned with tasteful plea- 
 sure grounds. Herbert's Isle, neai'ly in the middle 
 of the lake, is stated to have been inhabited by St. 
 Herbert (friend and contemporaiy of St. Cuthbert), 
 who died in 687. Some remains of his cell are still 
 to be recognised. What is termed the Floating 
 Island is a phenomenon which it is difficult to ac- 
 count for, as it only comes to the surface at varying 
 periods — sometimes being observable for some por- 
 tion of each successive year, and at others not ap- 
 pearing for two, three, or four years. It is situated 
 about 150 yards fi-om the shore near to Lowdore. 
 It is composed of earthy matter, covered -with vege- 
 tation, and contains a considerable quantity of air,
 
 46 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 which undoubtedly causes its buoyancy. " The 
 most probable conclusion seems to be, that air or 
 gas is generated in the body of the island by decom- 
 position of the vegetable matter of which it is formed; 
 and thus gas being pi'oduced most copiously, as 
 well as being more rarified in hot weather, the 
 earth at length becomes so much distended there- 
 with, as to render the mass of less weight than an 
 equal bulk of water. The water then insinuating 
 itself between the substratum of clay and the peat 
 earth forming the island, bears it to the surface, 
 where it continues for a time ; till, partly by the 
 escape of tlie gas, partly by its absorption, and partly 
 by its condensation, consequent on a decrease of 
 heat, the volume is reduced ; and the earth gradually 
 sinks to its former level, where it remains till a 
 sufficient accumulation of gas again renders it buoy- 
 ant."* The lake is 228 feet above the level of the 
 sea, and its depth is never more than between eighty 
 and ninety feet. Its principal feeder flows from 
 Borrowdale, but it is also supplied from the moun- 
 tains on each side, and after a continuation of heavy 
 rain sometimes rises to seven or eight feet above its 
 ordinary level. Its waters produce trout, pike, 
 perch, and eel, the right of fishing and navigating 
 on the eastern side belonging to the Derwentwater 
 estate, and on the western side to the Earl of Egre- 
 mont. 
 
 The circuit of Derwent Water, by way of Borrow- 
 dale, is not more than twelve or thirteen miles, and 
 forms a most interesting and attractive excursion. 
 Passing Castle Head, Wallow Crag, and Falcon 
 Crag, Barrow House, amid fine old trees, is reached 
 (about two miles from Keswick), where is a fine per- 
 pendicular waterfall, 124 feet in height. Shortly 
 before reaching this place a road branches off to the 
 
 • Otlcy's Guide.
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 47 
 
 left into the secluded vale of Watendlatli, at tlie head 
 of which is a tarn, covering about a dozen acres. 
 Pursuing the main road one mile from Barrow is the 
 Lowdore Inn, behind which is the noted cascade, 
 falling among large blocks of stone, a height of 360 
 feet, and presenting, Avith its picturesque accom- 
 paniments, the finest scene of the kind in the lake 
 district. Immediately on the left of this fall Gowder 
 Crag rises five hundi-ed feet, and Shepherd Crag, 
 on the opposite side, of less ele%'ation, is decked with 
 various kinds of trees. A spot at the head of the 
 fall is pointed out, from whence between these two 
 crags may be had an enchanting view of a portion of 
 Denvent Water and its islands, the vale of Keswick, 
 part of Bassenthwaite, and the towei'ing Skiddaw 
 overlooking the whole. The stream forming this 
 cataract issues from Watendlatli and Blea Tarns. 
 Two miles further is the celebrated Bowder Stone, 
 an immense block, which has undoubtedly at some 
 distant period rolled from the adjacent heights. It 
 measures sixty feet in length, is thirty-six feet high, 
 and eighty-four in circumference, and has been com- 
 puted to weigh nearly 1,800 tons. Its position is 
 extremely singular, representing 
 
 " A stranded ship, with keel upturned, that rests 
 Careless of winds and waves." 
 
 A good view is obtained of the upper part of Bor- 
 rowdale from this point, having the wooded eleva- 
 tion of Castle Crag, (once the site of a Roman forti- 
 fication), on the right, and Eagle Crag, Glaramara, 
 and Scawfell Pike in front. From here the tourist 
 begins to return, crosses Grange Bridge, and passes 
 on the western side of the lake, through the hamlet 
 of Manesty, where is a small medicinal spring, 
 thence under the hiU called Cat Bells, and through 
 the village of Portinscales, which is only distant one 
 mile and a half from Keswick.
 
 48 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 To the west and soutli-west of Keswick are the 
 lakes of Lowes Water, Crummock, Buttermere, and 
 Ennerdale, which are sometimes visited by tourists 
 who have sufficient time at their disposaL We will 
 liere Ijriefiy advert to them, and point out the road 
 by Avhicli they are generally approached. 
 
 The best route from Keswick to Buttermere is 
 through Borrowdale, Avhich has already been spoken 
 of as far as the Bowder Stone (five miles). From 
 that place the tourist passes thi'ough Rosthwaite to 
 Seatoller (three miles further), not far from which 
 are the celebi-ated black-lead mines, and in the 
 vicinity four yew trees of extraordinary dimensions, 
 which, according to Wordsworth, are 
 
 " Joined in one solemn and capacious grove ; 
 Huge trunks ! — and each particular trunk a growth 
 Of intertwisted fibres, serpentine, 
 Upcoiliug and inveterately convolved, 
 Nor uninformed with phantasy, and looks 
 That threaten the profane." 
 
 The ascent of a high pass, called Buttermere Haws, 
 commences here, and on descending on the opposite 
 side, the steep height of Honister Crag, rising 1,500 
 feet, is a conspicuous object ; and two hills, called 
 Great Gable and The Pillar, are seen on the left. 
 At Gatescarth, a farm-house, one mile further, a 
 mountain path to the left crosses Scai-f Gap to the 
 river Liza, afterwards following its course to Enner- 
 dale Lake. This lake possesses but few attractions 
 for the visiter. Its length is about two miles and a 
 half, and its breadth three quarters of a mile. At 
 Ennerdale Bridge, about a mile from the foot of 
 the lake, is an inn, and the chapel-yard at that 
 place is the scene of Wordsworth's " Brothers," 
 where 
 
 " Is neither epitaph nor monument, 
 Tombstone nor name — only the turf we tread. 
 And a few natural graves."
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 49 
 
 From Gatescartli is only one mile to Buttermere. 
 This lake, which is a mile and a quarter in length, 
 and scarcely half a mile in breadth, is nearly en- 
 compassed by superb rocky mountains. A stream 
 issuing from between the hills High Stile and Red 
 Pike, on the western side, makes the cascade of 
 Sour Milk Gill. The village of Buttermere, distant 
 fourteen miles from Keswick, stands near the foot of 
 the lake. At the inn here dwelt Mary Robinson, the 
 Beauty of Buttermere, whose tale is well known. 
 
 From Buttermere to Crummock Water the dis- 
 tance is something short of a mile. A footpath 
 from the former place, crossing the river which 
 connects the lakes, leads to Scale Force, the highest 
 cascade in the lake district. The water falls at 
 once 150 feet, between two rocks, into a deep 
 chasm, the sides being clothed ^vith trees and plants. 
 Crummock Water is situated amid magnificent 
 mountain scenery, having on the eastern side the 
 lofty Grasmoor, and on the western Melbreak. Its 
 length is nearly three miles, its breadth nearly 
 three quarters of a mile, and its head is graced by 
 three small islands. There is a decent inn at Scale 
 Hill, on the foot of the lake, where the tourist can 
 be supplied with a boat. Lowes Water may be 
 easily visited from here. It is not a mile in length, 
 and, unlike most other lakes, the scenery at its 
 foot is of a sublime description, while that at its 
 head is comparatively tame. 
 
 From Lowes Water the visiter can return to 
 Scale Hill, and proceed to Keswick through the 
 vale of Lorton, a distance of twelve miles. Where 
 the Cockermouth and Keswick road is entered (four 
 miles from Scale Hill) is the famous yew tree, 
 
 " Wliich to this day stands single in the midst 
 Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore. 
 Not loth to furnish weapons for the bands 
 f )f irmfraville or Percy." 
 
 !■;
 
 50 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 From here the road occasionally affords pleasing 
 prospects of the surrounding country. 
 
 The lake of Bassenthwaite is almost invariably 
 visited from Keswick, from which place it is dis- 
 tant nearly four miles. To pass on the western 
 side the Cockermouth road must be left at the vil- 
 lage of Braithwaite, 'from whence to Peel Wyke 
 (eight miles), the road passes thi'ough Thornthwaite, 
 and beneath the hills Lord's Seat and Barf, ascend- 
 ing and descending on soinewhat elevated ground, 
 and affording pleasant views of the adjacent vallies, 
 and of the lake, vnth Skiddaw on the opposite side. 
 A mile from Peel Wyke, Ouse Bridge, spanning 
 the river Derwent, is crossed. . Near to this place 
 is Armathwaite Hall (Lady Vane), and a mile fur- 
 ther Castle Inn, where the traveller may rest and 
 refresh himself. From here the road passes on the 
 eastern side, at some distance from the margin, and 
 eight miles again brings the tourist to Keswick. 
 Bassenthwaite Lake is four miles in length, and in 
 some places nearly a mile in breadth, but it has no 
 islands, and in every respect is greatly inferior to 
 its neighbour, Derwent Lake. 
 
 A circuit including Cockermouth, Wliitehaven, 
 St. Bees, and Egremont is sometimes taken by 
 tourists stationed at Keswick, who can, from the 
 last-named place, return by the ruins of Calder 
 Abbey (once belonging to a colony of Cistercians 
 detached from Furncss Abbey), and by way of 
 Wast Water and the small lakes already noticed. 
 
 The mountains of Skiddaw and Blencathara or 
 Saddleback (so named for its peculiar shape), are 
 generally visited from Keswick. The former is 
 8,022 feet above the level of the sea, and the dis- 
 tance from Keswick to the summit is six miles, and 
 the latter rises 2,787 feet above the sea, both of 
 which command prospects of great extent.
 
 THE ENliLISn LAKES. 51 
 
 The approaoli to the lake of Ullswater from Kes- 
 wick is generally made by pursuing the Penrith 
 road, along the banks of the Greta, through the 
 village of Threlkeld, and, taking a road to the right 
 about a mile from ]\Ioor End (nine from Keswick), 
 thence passing under Mell Fell, through the village 
 of Matterdale, and descending to the margin of the 
 lake at GowbaiTow Park. Airey Force, a fine 
 waterfall dashing between two rocks with great 
 violence, a little to the left before making this de- 
 scent, is entirely hidden from the sight by ancient 
 trees. 
 
 The pedestrian or horseman, however, might take 
 a much shorter and a more interesting route by 
 leaving the Penrith road about three miles from 
 Keswick, and proceeding through the Vale of St. 
 Jolm, pass over Wanthwaite Fell, and join the 
 above road at Dockray, about a mile from Ulls- 
 water. On this road, about a mile and a half from 
 Kesmck, is a Druidical Circle, 100 feet in diameter, 
 formed by rough stones of different dimensions, the 
 largest being upwards of seven feet in height, and 
 weighing seven or eight tons. Within this circle is 
 a still smaller one formed by ten stones. The nar- 
 row vale of St. John is situated between high moun- 
 tains, having Naddle Fell on the west and Great 
 Dodd on the east. The small chapel is placed on a 
 hill to the right. About the middle of this valley 
 the Castle Rock, a massive pile, unconnected with 
 the neighbouring hill, bears such an exact resem- 
 blance to a ruined castle that strangers frequently 
 believe it such till a near approach undecives them. 
 This is the scene of Sir Walter Scott's " Bridal of 
 Triermain." 
 
 Ullswater is considered the second, in point of 
 size and interest, of the English lakes. Its length is 
 nine miles, but its breadth is rather disproportionate, 
 E 2
 
 52 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 never exceeding three quarters of a mile. Its depth 
 in some places is upwards of 140 feet. On the up- 
 per portion are four small rocky islands, bearing the 
 names of Cherry Holm, Wall Holm, House Holm, 
 and Moss Holm. The scenery at the head is of a 
 grand description, and is seen to the best advantage 
 from towards the foot. The roads we have already 
 pointed out from Keswick are the nearest fi-om that 
 place, but to see the lake, and its concomitant 
 beauties, in the most favourable point of view, it is 
 necessary to commence at Pooley Bridge. 
 
 The only carriage road is on the north-western 
 side, in passing which the scenery will be found to 
 gradually increase in richness and grandeur. Seve- 
 ral viUas are situated on the borders of the lake to- 
 wards the foot, and near the middle Halsteads 
 (the seat of the late J. Marshall, Esq.) is placed on 
 a delightful promontory, amid fine pleasure grounds. 
 Between this place and Patterdale, Gowbarrow Park, 
 with its herds of deer, Lyulph's Tower, and Airey 
 Force, call for especial notice. The hotel at Patter- 
 dale, as well as that at Pooley Bridge, suppUes boats, 
 conveyances, &c., with other accommodations, and 
 the tourist making a temporary stay here Avould find 
 many pleasant walks and excursions. 
 
 From Pooley Bridge to Penrith is nearly six 
 miles. The town contains a population of upwards 
 of 5,000, and, with the country around, abounds in 
 antiquarian curiosities. The ruins of a castle over- 
 look the town, and in the church-yard is a curious 
 antique monument, supposed to point out the burial 
 place of Owen C^esarius, King of Cumberland in 
 the time of the Saxons. Besides these, the ruins of 
 Brougham Castle, King Arthur's Round Table, a 
 Druidical circle, called Long Meg and her Daughters, 
 with many other vestiges of past ages, all at no 
 great distance from the town, would amply repay a
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 53 
 
 visit. Brougham Hall (Lord Brougham) and Low- 
 ther Castle (the Earl of Lonsdale) are also in the 
 immediate neighbourhood. 
 
 And now, ha\'ing feasted his eyes on the natural 
 beauties unth vrhich the lake district is luxuriously 
 endowed, the tourist can, if he chooses, take the 
 Lancaster and Carlisle Railway at Penrith, and 
 probably in a few hoiu's be transported to his home 
 and friends, perhaps impressed with the idea that 
 this earth of ours possesses charms of which num- 
 bers have no conception. 
 
 LIST OF SOME OF THE RARER PLANTS OF THE LAKE 
 DISTRICT, WITH THEIR PRINCIPAL HABITATS. 
 
 Atropa Belladonna 
 
 Alchemilla alpina 
 
 Anchusa semper virens 
 Asarum Europoeum 
 Asplenium viride 
 Arbutus uva-ursi 
 Bartramia arcuata . 
 Circaea alpina 
 Cicuta virosa 
 Cerastium alpinum 
 Cochlearia officinalis 
 
 Convallaria majalis 
 
 Convallaria multiflora 
 Drosera rotundifolia 
 Drosera longifolia . 
 
 Empetrnm nigrum . 
 
 Epilobiura alpinum 
 Epilobium alsinifolium 
 Galium boreale . 
 Geranium sanguineum 
 
 Gnaphalium dioieum 
 
 Helianthemum canum 
 Hymenophyllum Tunbrid 
 
 ;ense 
 E 
 
 Fui'ness Abbey. 
 C Longsleddale — Head of But- 
 ! termere Dale — Screes — 
 I Black Sail. 
 
 Longsleddale — Bowness. 
 
 Keswick. 
 
 Scout Scar. 
 
 West-side of Grasmoor. 
 
 Lowdore. 
 
 Margin of Derwenwater. 
 
 Keswick. 
 
 Helvellyn. 
 
 Helvellyn — Longsleddale. 
 /Holm Island, Windermere, 
 \ and near Kendal. 
 
 Keswick. 
 
 In most bogs. 
 
 Borrowdale. 
 
 {Helvellyn — Skiddaw — 
 Benson Knot. 
 
 Keswick — Gowbarrow Park 
 
 Longsleddale. 
 
 Helvellyn — Shap. 
 
 Scout Scar. 
 J Buttermere — Screes— Long- 
 ( sleddale — Kendal Fell. 
 
 Scout Scar. 
 
 Screes.
 
 54 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 Hymenophyllum Wilsoni 
 Hypericum androsfemum 
 Isoetes lacustris 
 Impatiens noli me tangere 
 
 Juncus filiformis 
 
 Juncus triglumis 
 Juniperus communis 
 Lysimachia thyrsiflora 
 Lobelia Dortmanna 
 Lycopodium alpinum 
 Meum athamanticum 
 
 Mecanopsis cambrica 
 
 Oxyria reniformis 
 
 Parnassia palustiis 
 Peucedanum Ostruthium , 
 
 Pingnicula vulgaris 
 
 Polypodium calcareum 
 Potentilla fruticosa 
 Primula veris 
 Primula farinosa 
 
 Pteris crispa 
 
 Pyrola media 
 Pyrola minor 
 Rhodiola rosea . 
 
 Rubus cham£emorus , 
 
 Salix herbacea 
 
 Satyrium albidum 
 
 Saxifraga stellaris , 
 Saxifraga hypnoides 
 Saxifraga aizoides . 
 Saxifraga granulata 
 Saxifraga trydactilytes 
 Saxifraga nivalis 
 Saxifraga oppositifolia 
 Serratula alpina 
 Serratula tinctoria 
 Silene acaulis 
 Trientalis Europcea 
 
 Thalictrum majus 
 
 ThalictruQ) alpinum 
 
 Ambleside. 
 (Ambleside — Ferry, Winder- 
 \ mere. 
 
 In most of the lakes. 
 
 {Stock Gill Force, Ambleside 
 — Scale Hill. 
 f On the margin of Derv^ent- 
 \ water and Crummock Lake 
 
 Lowes Water. 
 
 Plentiful upon many fells. 
 
 Keswick. 
 
 In most of the lakes. 
 
 Helvellyn. 
 
 Keswick. 
 ( Longsleddale — Ferry, Win- 
 ( dermere. 
 
 f Helvellyn — Scawfell — Long- 
 ( sleddale— Great End. 
 
 Abundant. 
 
 Legberthwaite. 
 
 {Wansfell, and in moist ele- 
 vated places — Abundant. 
 
 Kendal Fell. 
 
 Screes. 
 
 Occurs rarely. 
 
 In several moist situations. 
 ( Borrowdale — Abundant in 
 ( the lake district. 
 
 Stock Gill Force. 
 
 Dunmallet. 
 
 Screes — Helvellyn — Scawfell 
 
 {Crossfell — Goat Scar, Long- 
 sleddale. 
 y Helvellyn— Skiddaw—Scaw 
 ( fell— Saddleback. 
 / Mountainous pastures above 
 * (. Borrowdale. 
 
 , > On most of the mountains. 
 
 Keswick — Kendal. 
 
 Abundant. 
 
 Helvellyn. 
 
 Great End. 
 
 Helvellyn. 
 
 Newby Bridge. 
 
 Helvellyn — Great End. 
 
 Keswick. 
 J Screes — margin of Enner- 
 ( dale Lake. 
 
 Helvellvn — Great End.
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 Of) 
 
 Thalictrum minus 
 Utricularia minor 
 Vaccinium vitis-idea 
 
 Vaccinium oxycoccos 
 
 Vaccinium myitillus 
 Viola lutea . 
 
 Great End. 
 Near Ennerdale Lake. 
 Great Gable — Skiddaw. 
 Abundant in most moist 
 
 ( places. 
 In rough woods 
 Skiddaw. 
 
 SYNOPTICAL VIEW OF LAKES. 
 
 
 
 
 Length 
 
 Brdth. 
 
 Depth 
 
 Height in 
 
 Name. 
 
 County 
 
 m 
 
 in 
 
 in 
 
 ft. above 
 
 
 
 miles. 
 
 miles. 
 
 feet. 
 
 the sea. 
 
 Windermere 
 
 West. & Lane. 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 240 
 
 
 UUswater 
 
 Cum. & West. 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 210 
 
 380 
 
 Coniston Water 
 
 Lancashire 
 
 6 
 
 ^ 
 
 160 
 
 
 Bassenthwaite Wtr. 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 68 
 
 210 
 
 Derwent Water 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 3 
 
 U 
 
 72 
 
 222 
 
 Crummock Water . 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 3 
 
 f 
 
 132 
 
 240 
 
 Wast Water . . 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 3 
 
 
 270 
 
 160 
 
 Hawes Water 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 3 
 
 X 
 
 
 443 
 
 Thirlemere . 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 2| 
 
 h 
 
 108 
 
 473 
 
 Ennerdale Water . 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 n 
 
 i 
 
 80 
 
 
 Esthwaite Water . 
 
 Lancashire 
 
 2 
 
 i 
 
 80 
 
 198 
 
 Buttermere 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 u 
 
 i 
 
 
 247 
 
 Grasmere 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 u 
 
 ^ 
 
 180 
 
 180 
 
 Lowes Water . 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 Brother's Water 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 Eydal Water . . 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 i 
 
 h 
 
 
 156 
 
 SYNOPTICAL VIEW OF WATERFALLS. 
 
 
 Height 
 
 
 
 Name. 
 
 m 
 feet. 
 
 J^ituation. 
 
 County. 
 
 Scale Force . 
 
 1.56 
 
 South-w. side of Crum- 
 
 
 
 
 mock Lake 
 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Barrow Cascade 
 
 124 
 
 East side of Derwent 
 
 
 
 
 Water . . . 
 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Lowdore Cascade . 
 
 100 
 
 East side of Derwent 
 
 
 
 
 Water . 
 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Colwith Force 
 
 90 
 
 Little Langdale 
 
 Westmorland. 
 
 Airey Force 
 
 80 
 
 West side of UUswater. 
 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Dxmgeon Gill Force 
 
 80 
 
 South-east side of Lang- 
 
 
 
 
 dale Pikes 
 
 Westmorland. 
 
 Stock Gill Force . 
 
 70 
 
 Ambleside . 
 
 AYestmorland. 
 
 Birker Force 
 
 60 
 
 South side of Eskdale . 
 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Stanley Gill Force . 
 
 60 
 
 South side of Eskdale . 
 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Sour Milk Force . 
 
 60 
 
 South side ofButtermere 
 
 Cumberland. 
 
 Upper Fall, Kydal . 
 
 50 
 
 Eydal Park 
 
 Westmorland. 
 
 Skelwith Force 
 
 20 
 
 On the stream flowing 
 
 
 
 
 from Elterwater . 
 
 Westmorland.
 
 .")(j 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 SYNOPTICAL VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF THE 
 LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 Name Of Mountains. jinFlet.i 
 
 County. 
 
 Scawfell Pike . . • ! 3166 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Scawfell 3100 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Ilelvellyn . . ■ , 3055 
 
 Cumb. & Westm. 
 
 Skiddaw 3022 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Fairfield .... 2950 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Great Gavel . . . ■ 2925 
 
 Cumbei-land 
 
 Bowfell .... 2914 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Rydal Head . . • ■ 
 Pillar . .... 
 
 2910 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 2893 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Saddleback . . . • 
 
 2787 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Grasmoor .... 
 
 2756 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Red Pike . . - . - 
 
 2750 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 High Street .... 
 
 2700 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Grizedale Pike . . • ■ 
 
 2680 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Coniston Old Man . 
 
 2577 
 
 Lancashire 
 
 Hill Bell 
 
 2500 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 PfkTo-StS!^'}^-g'^-i^i'''^- 
 
 2400 
 2300 
 
 1 Westmorland 
 
 Carrock Fell .... 
 
 2110 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 High Pike, Caldbeck Fells . . 
 
 2101 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Causey Pike .... 
 
 2030 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Black Combe . . . . 
 
 1919 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Lord's Seat .... 
 
 1728 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Wansfell . .... 
 
 1.590 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Whinfell Beacon, near Kendal 
 
 1500 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Cat Bell .... 
 
 1448 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Latrigg 
 
 Dent Hill .... 
 
 1160 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 1110 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Benson Knott, near Kendal 
 
 1098 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Loughrigg Fell 
 
 1108 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Penrith Beacon . . . 
 
 1020 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Mell Fell .... 
 
 1000 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Kendal Fell . . . . 
 
 648 
 
 Westmorland 
 
 Scilly Bank, near Whitehaven 
 
 500 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Passes. 
 
 
 
 Sty Head . . . . 
 
 1250 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Haws, between Buttermere 
 
 
 
 dale and Newlands • . 
 
 UGO 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Haws, between Buttermere 
 
 
 
 and Borrowdale . 
 
 1100 
 
 Cumberland 
 
 Dunmail Raise . 
 
 720 
 
 Cumb. & Westm. 
 
 
 Height 
 
 Highest English Mountain, Scawfell Pike, Cumb. 
 
 in Feet. 
 
 3,166 
 
 Highest WeLsli Mountain, Snowdon, Caernarvonshire 
 
 3,.57t 
 
 Highest Irisii Mountain, Gurrane Tual, Kerry 
 
 3,404 
 
 Highest Scottish Mountain, lieu Mucdui, Aberdeen . 
 
 4,418 
 
 Higliest European Mountain, Jlont 151aiic. 
 
 1.5,781 
 
 ' Highest Mouutain in the World, Dliawalagiri, Asia . / 26,802
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 57 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Abbey, Calder, 50. 
 ^bbey, Furness, 20. 
 Airey Force, 51, 52. 
 Allan Bank, 38. 
 Ambleside, 27 and 28. 
 Armathwaite Hall, 50. 
 Arbeia, Roman Station, 32. 
 Armboth Fells, 42. 
 
 Bardsea, Village of, 19. 
 Barrow House, 46. 
 
 Cascade, 46. 
 
 Barrow (Furness), 21. 
 Bassenthwaite Lake, 50. 
 Beauty of Buttermere, 49. 
 Belle "isle, Windermere, 9. 
 Bellfield, 15. 
 Belle Grange, 13. 
 Bellemont, 23 
 Berkshire Island, 11. 
 Birker Force, 43. 
 Birthwaite, terminus and 
 
 Hotel at, a. 
 Black-lead Mines, Borrow- 
 
 daie, 48 
 Blake Holm, Windermtre, 11. 
 Blawith, 24. 
 Blea Tarn, 29. 47. 
 Blelham Tarn, 11. 
 Borrowdale, 47, 48, 
 Bowder Stone, 47. 
 Bowness, 7. 
 Bowfell,27. 
 Brantfell, 9. 
 Brathay Bridge, 13. 
 
 Chapel, 13. 
 
 Hall, 13. 
 
 Brathay, River, 11. 
 Brentwood Cottage, 24. 
 
 Bridal of Triermain, Scene of 
 
 51. 
 Brothers "Water, 17. 
 Broughton-in-Furness, 27. 
 Brougham Castle, 52. 
 Brougham Hall, 53. 
 Burneside Hall, 6. 
 Burton-in-Kendal, 2. 
 Butteimere Haws, 48. 
 Buttermere Lake, 49. 
 Buttermere Village, 49. 
 
 Calder Abbey, 50. 
 Cdlgarth Park, 8. 16. 
 Canning, Mr., 8. 17. 
 Cartmel, 18, 
 
 Church, 18. 
 
 Casterton, 3. 
 
 Castle Crag, Borrowdale, 47. 
 
 , Roman Station at, 47. 
 
 Castle Inn, Bassenthwaite, 50 
 Castle Rock, Vale of St. John, 
 
 .51. 
 Cat Bells, 47. 
 
 Cherry Holm, Ullswater, 52- 
 Clappersgate, 13. 
 Cockley Beck, 42. 
 Codale Fell, 39. 
 Colwith Bridge and Force, 28 
 Concangium, Roman Station, 
 
 5. 
 Conishead Priory, 19. 
 Coniston Bank, 24. 
 Coniston, 23. 
 
 Hall, 24 
 
 Old Man, 25, 26. 
 
 Water, 23, 24, 2',. 
 
 Cook's House, 17. 
 Cowan Head, 6.
 
 58 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO 
 
 Crake, 21. 
 Croft Lodge, 12. 
 Crosthwaite Church, 44. 
 Crow Holm, Windermere, 11. 
 Crummock Water, 49. 
 Cunsey, 11. 14. 
 
 Dalehead House, 41. 
 
 Dalton, 20. 
 
 Derwent Water, 45. 47. 
 
 Derwentwater, Earl of, 46. 
 
 Dictis, Roman Station, 32. 
 
 Dove's Nest, 16. 
 
 Druidical Circle, Keswick, 51. 
 
 Duddon, 26, 27. 
 
 Dungeon Ghyll, 29. 
 
 Dunmail Raise, 41. 
 
 Dunnerdale, 26. 
 
 Eagle Crag, 47. 
 
 Easdale, Vale and Tarn of, 
 
 38, 39. 
 Elleray, 8. 
 Elterwater, 30. 
 Ennerdale Bridge, 48. 
 
 Lake, 48. 
 
 Eskdale, 43. 
 Esthwaite, 21. 
 Esthwaite Hall, 21. 
 Esthwaite Lodge, 21. 
 
 Fairfield, 31. 
 
 Fell Foot, 15. 
 
 Ferry Inn, 13 
 
 Finsthwaite, 14. 
 
 Floating Island, Derwent 
 
 Water, 45. 
 Fox, George, 21. 
 Fox Ghyll, 32. 
 
 How, 32. 
 
 Furness Abbey, 20. 
 
 Gatescarth, 48. 
 
 Gilpin, Mr., Extract from, 35. 
 
 Glaramara, 47. 
 
 Glen of Deadly Nightshade, 
 
 20. 
 Gowbarrow Park, 51, 52. 
 Gowder Crag, 47. 
 Gough, Mr. Charles, Account 
 
 of, 40. 
 
 Grasraere, 37, 38. 
 
 Lake, 37. 
 
 Grass Holm, Windermere, 11. 
 
 Graythwaite Hall, 14. 
 
 Great Gable, 48. 
 
 Great Langdale, 29. 
 
 Greenodd, 21. 
 
 Green, Quotation from, 39. 
 
 Greta Hall, 45. 
 
 River, 45. 
 
 Grisedale Tarn, 40. 
 Gummershow, 15. 
 
 Halsteads, 52. 
 
 Hamilton, Thomas, Esq., 8. 
 
 Hardknott, 42. 
 
 Castle, 42. 
 
 Harrison Stickle, 29. 
 Hawkshead, 22. 
 
 Hall, 23. 
 
 Hawes Water, 5. 
 Helm Crag, 39. 
 Helvellyn, 39, 40. 
 Hemans, Mrs., 16. 
 Heman's, Mrs., Extract from, 
 
 38. 
 Hen Holm, 11. 
 Herberts' Isle, 45. 
 Hevershani, 3. 
 Heversham Grammar School, 
 
 3. 
 High Street, 17. 
 High Wray, 13. 
 Hill Bell, 17. 
 Holker Hall, 19. 
 House Holm, 11. 
 House Holm, UUswater, 52. 
 
 Islands, Windermere, 11, 12. 
 
 Kendal, 4. 
 
 Kendal and Windermere Rail- 
 way, Viaduct on, 6. 
 
 Kentmere, 5. 
 
 Keppel Cove Tarn, 39. 
 
 Keswick, 43, 44. 45. 
 
 King Arthur's Round Table, 
 52. 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale, 2. 
 
 Kirkstone, 32.
 
 THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 59 
 
 Lady Holm, 11. 
 Lake Field, 21. 
 
 Bank, 21. 
 
 Landing, The, 14. 
 Langdale, 29. 
 Langdale Pikes, 29. 
 Leathes Water, 41. 
 Legberthwaite, 42. 
 Leven, 11. 15. 
 Levens Hall, 3. 
 Lily-of-the-Valley Holm, 11. 
 Ling Holm, 11. 
 Liza, River, 48. 
 Lloyd, Owen, 29. 
 Long Sleddale, 5. 
 Lowther Castle, 53. 
 Low Wood Inn, 12. 16. 
 Lowdore Cascade, 47. 
 Lowes Water, 49. 
 Lowick, 21. 
 Loughrigg Tarn, 30. 
 Loughrigg Fell, 36. 
 Lune, 2. 
 Lyulph's Tower, 52. 
 
 Manesty, 47. 
 
 Mardale, 5. 
 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, 3. 
 
 Matterdale, 51. 
 
 Milnthorpe, 3. 
 
 Mortal Man, Troutbeck, 17. 
 
 Moss Holme, UUswater, 52. 
 
 Museums, Keswick, 44. 
 
 Nab Scar, 36. 
 Near Sawrey, 21. 
 Newby Bridge, 14. 
 Nibthwaite, 24. 
 
 Orrest Head. 9. 
 Owen Caesarius, Burial Place 
 of, 52. 
 
 Parr, Queen Catherine, 3, 4. 
 
 Penrith, 52. 
 
 Philipson, Jlajor, Anecdote 
 
 of, 9. 
 Pike of Stickle, 29. 
 Pooley Bridge, 52. 
 Portinscales. 47. 
 Pull Wyke, 12. 
 
 Ramps Holm, 11. 
 
 Rayrigg, 8. 15. 
 
 Red Tarn, 39. 
 
 Roman Fort, Ambleside, 32. 
 
 Rosthwaite, 48. 
 
 Rothay, 11. 
 
 Rough Holm, 11. 
 
 Route, 1. 
 
 Rush-bearing, Ambleside, 28. 
 
 Rydal Village, 33. 
 
 Chapel, 33. 
 
 Mount, 33. 
 
 AVaterfalls, 35. 
 
 Water, 36, 
 
 Saddleback, 50. 
 
 Sawrey, Far and Near, 21. 
 
 Scale Force, 49. 
 
 Scawfell, 43. 
 
 Screes, 43. 
 
 Scout Scar, 5. 
 
 Scott, Extract from, 40. 
 
 Seatoller, 48. 
 
 Seatsandal, 40. 
 
 Seathwaite, 26. 
 
 Seatallan, 43. 
 
 Season, 1, 2. 
 
 Shap Spa, 6. 
 
 Shepherd Crag, 47. 
 
 Sigourney, Mrs., Extracti 
 
 from, 33. 38. 
 Silver How, 39. 
 Sizergh Hall, 3. 
 Skelwith Bridge, 28. 
 
 Force, 28. 
 
 Skiddaw, 50. 
 
 Sour Milk Gill, Grasmere, 39 
 
 Sour Milk'Gill, Buttermere, 49 
 
 Southey, Dr., 44. 
 
 St. Herbert's Cell, Derwen- 
 
 water, 45. 
 St. John's Vale, 42. 
 Stanley Gill, 43. 
 Station House, Ferry Inn, 13. 
 Stanley Gill, 43. 
 Staveley, Village of, 6. 
 Steam Yachts, Windermere, 
 
 10. 
 Stock Gill Force, 30. 
 
 Beck, 30. 
 
 Storrs Hall. 8. 15.
 
 60 
 
 HAND-BOOK TO THE ENGLISH LAKES. 
 
 Stott Park, 14. 
 Striding Edge, Helvelljn, 40. 
 Sty Head Pass, 42. 
 Swartmoor Hall, 21. 
 
 Tent Lodge, Coniston, 24. 
 The Pillar, 48. 
 Thirlmere, 41. 
 Thompson's Holm, 11. 
 Thrang Crag, 29; 
 Three Shire Stones, 42. 
 Thurston Water, 23, 24. 
 Tilberthwaite, 25. 
 Tolson Hall, 6. 
 Torver, 24. 
 
 Tower, Newby Bridge, 14. 
 Town End, Grasraere, 37. 
 Town Head, 15. 
 Troutbeck, 17. 
 Bridge, 16. 
 
 TJUswater, 51, 52. 
 Ulverston, 19. 
 Urswick, 21. 
 
 Walker, Rev. Robert (Note), 
 26. 
 
 Wall Holm, TJUswater, 52. 
 Wallow Crag, 46. 
 Walna Scar, 26. 
 Wansfell Pike, 31. 
 Watendlath, 42. 47. 
 Water Crook, 5. 
 Waterhead House, Coniston, 
 
 23. 
 
 Inn, Coniston, 23. 
 
 Water Park, Coniston, 24. 
 Watson, Bishop, 8. 
 Wast Water, 43- 
 White Moss Quarry, 36. 
 Wilson, Professor, Quotation 
 
 from, 7. 
 Wilson, Rev. Cams, 3. 
 Windermere, 6 — 17. 
 Wishing Gate, 36. 
 Wordsworth, 33, 34. 
 Extracts from, 27. 29. 
 
 31. 35, 36. 44. 48. 
 Wray Castle, 13. 
 Wrynose, 42. 
 Wy'thburn, 41. 
 
 Yewdale, 24, 25. 
 
 List of some of the rarer Plants of the Lake District, with 
 
 their principal Habitats, 53 55. 
 Synoptical View of Lakes, 55. 
 
 View of Waterfalls, 55. 
 
 View of the Mountains of the Lake District, 56. 
 
 Index, 57—70. 
 
 Kendal : 
 
 Printed liy I'. Atkinson, 
 
 Stricklandgatc.
 
 A 000 020 874
 
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