THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES Ex Libris Katharine F. Richmond and Henry C. Fall CHAS. H. HORTON, JOOKBIKTIDE: Air,rTiin(r Star Kllilrlinff. "^5ft > 7 (&JL-JL. . 13>, HISTORICAL RELICS White Mountains 1631 to 1855. r; o s T o x : PUBLISH F.i> uv :\ATHAMI;L NOTES >;<,. i .. 5. ALSO, A CONCISE WHITE MOUNTAIN GUIDE; AND A METEOROLOGICAL TABLE FOR 1853-4, GIVING THE INDICATIONS OF THE THERMOM- ETER, ON THE TOP OF MOUNT WASHINGTON, AT SUNRISE, NOON, AND SUNSET, WITH A SYNOPSIS OF THE SAME FOR EACH SUMMER MONTH. BY JOHN H. SPAULDING. BOSTON: PUBLISHED BY NATHANIEL NOYES, NO. 11 COBNRILL. 1855. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by J. H. SPAULDING, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts Stereotyped by HOBART ft BOBBINS, Mew EngUnd T vpe tnd Stcr eotjpe Foundry, INTRODUCTION. THERE may be no locality combining more general interest for the pleasure-seeking tourist than the WHITE MOUNTAINS. Here every season thousands come from different climes, on a pilgrimage, that they may pay most worshipful tribute in spirit-felt wonder, and songs of praise. My apology for attempting to originate and compile the following pages, is the belief that the curiosity of the travelling public requires a work embodying my design. The pencil of " Oakes " and the pen of "Beckett" have nicely defined every explored locality, interestingly connected with the particular geography of these mountains ; besides which, the number of those may be called " legion " who have made fancied famous record for the world of their "White Mountain impressions. These mountains are a fadeless pictured page in Nature's wonderful book, or a gigantic monument of ruins formed by an overwhelming change, that widely disfigured the origi- nal geological formation of this wild region ; and as a massive rock-shadow in a strange land, is to a journey-sick pilgrim with a gushing cold-water spring by his feet, so my impres- sions of these famous "old peaks" now rise to my sight. An ambitious presence in fancy is with me now, with a voice saying, like a prophetic whisper from " Gheistland," " Res- cue from the twilight of forgetfulness the HISTORICAL RELICS 1* TI INTRODUCTION. OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS ! " The curious data of olden times the antiquities of this anciently named Agiochook, with the statistical facts of modern origin, necessary for a concise history of " these bald old heads of nature '.' have never been tangibly combined. The trials and daring exploits of the fearless adventurers, who in other days filled the historic blank of this renowned locality, are rich with rarities for a work of interest to the reading world. Their life-relics have twined around them, by traditionary remembrance, pleasant associations of undecayable interest. We may for future visions gaze back from the cloud-capped crags into the valley of the past, and rescue from the oblivious mist of years the oral monuments, that, tinctured by the life-passion of times long gone, linger like visions of light upon the map of memory. Vanity is not the power that prompts me to desire success in this task ; but as storm and time cover the names chiselled upon the top crag of Mount Washington with moss, so, with a round of years, " Old Mortality" should come, to brighten up the vestiges of the past, and catalogue new events with the re-chiselled. The antiquarian collections of interesting facts, found in the library of the Massachusetts Historical Society, having been open to my inquiry, my humble tribute of respect is due that society for the arrangement by which my research has been favored; and their assistant librarian, John Appleton, M.D., is, for his politeness to me as a stranger, deserving my last- ing gratitude. The kindness of J. M. Rix, Esq., of Lancas- ter, in giving me free access to his library of choice books, is happily remembered. N. Noyes, Esq., of Boston, and B. F. Whidden, Esq., of Lancaster, have my sincere thanks for assisting me in obtaining the facts here registered, from the most authentic records. J. H. S. Lancaster, June, 1855. TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGB Legendary Qrigin of White Mountains, 1 First Tisit, in the Year 1631, 2 Origin of Name " Crystal Hills," 3 Darby Field's Visit' 1642, 4 Indian Veneration for Agiochook, 6 Geographical Situation, 8 Geological Features, 8 Minerals, 9 Scientific Measurements of the Mountains, ...".... 12 Height of the White Mountains, 14 Perpetual Congelation, 14 Snow Arch and Bank, 15 Dining under Forty Feet of Snow, 15 Alpine Flowers, , 16 The Veteran Pilot, 16 First White-Mountain Guide, 16 First Hotel, 17 Indian Prophecy on " Giant's Grave," 17 The " White-Mountain Giant," 18 Place of his Birth, 18 Record of his Strength, 20 Carrying the Kettle and Deer, 20 Halter-Breaking the Mountain Buck, 20 The Giant lugging the Old Bear, 20 First White-Mountain Bear-Show, 21 Catching the Wildcat with a Withe, , 21 The Two Close Shots, 22 Ethan's Pond, ' 23 The Giant carrying a Lady, 23 The Men who named the Mountain, 23 First Night spent on Mount Washington, 24 Blue Pond and the Giant's Load, 24 First Mount-Washington Bridie-Path, 24 Location of that Old Path, 25 Ethan's Stone Cabin, 25 The Old Iron Chest and Roll of Lead, 25 First Ladies on Mount Washington, 25 First Horseback Ride, 26 White-Mountain Guides, 27 Tradition of Silver and Gold, 28 Vm CONTENTS. PAG a Tradition of Carbuncles, 80 Carbuncle Hunters, 31 The Red Man's Curse, 31 The Indian Ghost, 31 Lost Spirits' Looking-Glass, 31 Bogers and his Rangers, 32 Silver Image, Wampum, and Money, 33 Bangers' Relics found, 30 Strange Sights seen, 38 The Old Fortune-Teller, 41 Search for Silver Image, etc., 42 The Old Brass Plate, 48 Discovery of the Notch, 49 The Hunters Nash and Sawyer, . . . . , 49 Description of Notch, 49 Silver Cascade 60 The Flume, 50 First Settler through the Notch, 51 The First Female, 51 " Granny Stalbird's " Bock, 52 Story of " Nancy's Bock and Brook," 52 First Goods brought up the Notch, 54 First Produce carried down, 55 First House in the Notch, 55 Avalanche of the Mountain, 58 Origin of Indian Fire- Worship, 67 Destruction of the Willey Family, . 58 Names of the Family, 59 Wonderful Escapes, 59 Destruction of " Ethan's Cabin," ..60 Origin of Peabody Biver, 60 Darby Field's Second Visit, 61 Death of the English Baronet, 62 Death-Leap of the Moose and Dog, 64 Indian Exile Pealsucep, 64 Silver-Mine found, 68 White-Mountain Hermit, 68 The Stolen White Girl, 69 White-Mountain Hotel, 71 Dwelling-Place in the Clouds, 72 Nazro's Temple Vision, 72 Summit House, Mount Washington, 74 Tip-Top House, Mount Washington, 74 Mount- Washington Carriage-Road, 76 CONTENTS. IX FAGB White-Mountain Objects of Interest, 78 The Crystal Cascade 78 The Hermit's Lake, 79 Fall of a Thousand Streams, , 80 Tuokerman's Ravine, 80 Glen Elise Falls, 80 Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, 80 " Gulf of Mexico," 81 Bones in the " Burnt District," 82 The " Devil's Den," 83 Bearing and Distances of White Mountains, 84 Height, Bearing and Distances of other Mountains from Mt. Washington, . 84 Franconia and its Attractions, 85 The " Old Man of the Mountain," 86 The Pool, 86 The Flume, .87 The Basin, 87 The Cascade, 87 Mount Lafayette, or the " Great Haystack," 87 Eagle Mountain, 88 Length of Days at the Summit of Mount Washington, 88 Thermometrical Table for 1853, 89 Summary of the Weather for same, 91 Thermometrical Table for 1854 92 Summary of the Weather for same, 94 Routes and Distances to the Mountains, 97 HISTORICAL RELICS THE WHITE MOUNTAINS LEGENDARY ORIGIN OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. .COLD storms were in the northern wilderness, and a lone red hunter wandered without food, chilled by the frozen wind. He lost his strength, and could find no game ; and the dark cloud that covered his life-path made him weary of wandering. He fell down upon the snow, and a dream carried him to a wide, happy valley, filled with musical streams, where singing birds and game were plenty. His spirit cried aloud for joy ; and the " Great Master of Life " waked him from his sleep, gave him a dry coal and a flint-pointed spear, telling him that by the shore of the lake he might live, and find fish with his spear, and fire from his dry coal. One night, when he had laid down his coal, and seen a warm fire spring up therefrom, with a blinding smoke, a loud voice came out of the flame, and a great noise, like thunder, filled the 2 HISTORICAL RELICS OF air ; and there rose up a vast pile of broken rocks. Out of the cloud resting upon the top came numerous streams, dancing down, foaming cold ; and the voice spake to the astonished red hunter, saying, "Here the Great Spirit will dwell, and watch over his favorite children" Old Legend. FIRST VISIT, IN 1631. DR. BELKNAP, the learned historian of New Hampshire, gives Walter Neal the credit of being the first explorer of these mountains, as early as the year 1632. Merrill's N. H. Gazetteer of 1817 concludes, from the best authorities, that Kobert Neal, Walter Neal and others, visited these mountains as early as the year 1631. Josselyn, in his New England Rarities, gives the following description, which, with little variation, is found also in Belknap, as an extract from Hubbard's MS. History, credited to Walter Neal : " Four score miles (upon a direct line) to the N. W. of Scarboro' a ridge of mountains runs N. W. and N. E. an hundred leagues, known by the name of White Hills, upon which lieth snow all the year, and is a landmark twenty miles off at sea. It is a rising ground from the sea-shore to these hills, and they are inaccessible but by the gulleys which the dissolved snow hath made. In these gulleys grow savin bushes, which, being taken hold of, are a good THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 3 help to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of the highest of these mountains is a large level, or plain, of a day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but moss. At the further end of this plain is another hill, called the 'Sugarloaf,' to outward appearance a rude heap of mass- ive stones, piled one upon another ; and you may, as you ascend, step from one stone to another, as if you were going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about the hill, till you come to the top, which will require half a day's time, and yet it is not above a mile, where there is also a level of about an acre of ground, with a pond of clear water in the midst of it, which you may hear run down ; but how it ascends is a mystery. From this rocky hill you may see the whole country around about. It is far above the lower clouds, and from hence we beheld vapor (like a great pillar) drawn up by the sunbeams out of a great lake, or pond, into the air, where it was formed into a cloud. The country beyond these hills, northward, is daunting terrible, being full of rocky hills, as thick as mole-hills in a meadow, and clothed with infinite thick woods."* N. E. Rarities, 3-4. * Another writer, after giving a similar description, adds, " We had great expectation of finding precious stones on these moun- tains ;" and something resembling crystals being picked up, was sufficient to give them the name of " Crystal Hills." They were long called by that name. AUTHOR. 2 4 HISTOKICAL BJELICS OF DARBY FIELD'S VISIT, IN 1642. June 4th, 1642. " Darby Field " (says Winthrop, in his Journal), "an Irishman, living about Piscat, being accompanied with two Indians, went to the top of the White Hill. He made his journey in eighteen days. His relation, at his return, was, that it was about 160 miles from Saco ; that after 40 miles travel he did, for the most part, ascend ; and within 12 miles of the top was neither tree nor grass, but low savins, which they went upon the top of, sometimes ; but a continual ascent upon rocks, on a ridge, between two valleys, filled with snow, out of which came two branches of the Saco river, which met at the foot of the hill, where was an Indian town, of some 200 people. Some of them accompanied him within 8 miles of the top, but durst go no farther, telling him that no Indian ever dared to go higher, and that he would die if he went. So they staid there till his return, and his two Indians took courage by his example, and went with him. They went divers times through thick clouds, for a good space ; and within 4 miles of the top they had no clouds, but very cold. By the way among the rocks there was two ponds : one a blackish water, and the other reddish. The top of all was plain, about 60 ft. square. On the north side was such a precipice as they could scarcely dis- cern the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 5 the top, and moderate heat. All the country about him seemed a level, except here and there a hill rising above the rest, and far beneath them. He saw, to the north, a great water, which he judged to be 100 miles broad, but could see no land beyond it. The sea by Saco seemed as if it had been within 20 miles. He saw, also, a sea to the eastward, which he judged to be the gulf of Canada. He saw some great waters in parts to the westward, which he judged to be the great lake Canada river (St. Lawrence) came out of. He found there much Muscovy glass ; they could rive out pieces 40 ft. long, and 7 or 8 broad. When he came back to the Indians, he found them drying themselves by the fire ; for they had a great tempest of wind and rain. About a month after, he went again, with five or six of his company. Then they had some wind on the top, and some clouds above them, which hid the sun. They brought some stones, which they supposed had been diamonds; but they were most crystal."* Winthrop's Journal, p. 247. INDIAN VENEEATION FOE AGIOCHOOK. According to antiquarian research, the aboriginal name of the White Mountains was" Agiochook;" spelt, also, Agio- * We may reasonably conclude that Darby Field's trail was up the ridge between Tuckerman's Ravine and the valley of Dry River. AUTHOB. 6 HISTORICAL RELICS OF cochook, Agicoochooke, Agriochooke; signifying, by ancient Indian nomenclature, " Mountain of the Snaivy Forehead, and Home of the Great Spirit." Schoolcraft, in his " Indian Wigwam," page 248, gives, as the Algonquin pronuncia- tion of these mountains, "Waubik," or "Waumbick;" meaning " White Rock." Becket, in his "Guide," calls them, from ancient authority, " Waumbeket Methna," sig- nifying mountains of the " Snowy Foreheads." The lore of legend, the voice of tradition, and the record of history, point to these mountains as a locality of great interest. In olden times, from far and near have come the brave and fair red children of the wilderness, to offer, in wild, shadowy glens, their sacrifices of vengeance and love ; and where their songs rose, with the echoes of thundering waterfalls, to mingle with the roaring wind of the tempest cloud, upon the snow-crowned rock, there they rever- ently believed the Great Spirit listened with satisfaction to their tributes of esteem. When the first white man came here, to climb to the top of this bald mountain, an old Indian, with his tomahawk of stone, flint-pointed ar- row, and tanned war-dress, from the skins of moose and bear, standing proudly erect, shook his head, and said, "The Great Spirit dwells there; he covers steps above the green leaves with the darkness of the fire tempest. No foot-marks are seen returning from his home in the clouds." The explorer's thirst for daring adventure overruled the THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 7 fear created by the Indians' superstition ; and, after learn- ing that the Great Spirit sent a high wind, in a thick mist, and caught up to the top of Agiochook a single sanop and his squaw, that the wilderness and all the mountains except this, might be covered for two suns with water, and that they might then return as the only mortals who should ever come down the " White Rock " from his dwelling place, he went to the top, and safely returned. All old authentic records agree, that the aborigines unitedly had a peculiar superstitious veneration for these mountains. They considered them- the dwelling-place of the invisible One, who, with a motion of his hand, could raise a storm ; and accordingly they deemed it pardonless sacrilege to ascend them. Traditions teach us that a few have been found so daring (in the long history of the Indians) as to press, with their moccasined feet the moss that grows above the region of scrub vegetation ; and such have been doomed to wander forever invisibly among wild gorges, with no resting-jj)Iace save the damp, cold caverns in the rocks, and no hope of ever reaching the "happy land" beyond the setting sun. To this day, those are to be found who credulously believe that the strange noises often heard among the shadowy cliffs (instead of giving credit to wolves and wild-cats) proceed from lost spirits, that miser- ably exist here in hopeless torment, perpetually bewailing their fate. 2* 8 HISTORICAL RELICS OF GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION OF WHITE MOUNTAINS. These mountains are situated in the State of New Hampshire, and County of Coos. Their latitude is 44 16' 34" north, and longitude 77 20' west. Since their discovery by the early voyagers along the wild coast of New England, they have ever been regarded with won- der and admiration. Deep, shadowy gorges, where the everlasting waterfall lives among massy crags, with its endless thunder-song; the yawning chasms, filled with snow, and romantic, flowery glens, shaded by a gnarled growth of old forest-trees, combined with an area of fifty thousand three hundred and forty-one acres of shattered rocks, piled high up to the clouds, in the wildest disorder imaginable, form the remarkable outline of this famous locality. No wonder that the rude, nature-tanned son of the wilderness, as he gazed upon this gigantic pile of rocks, standing up from its original bed six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet into the clouds, was filled with super- stitious veneration ; for here, in all coming time, the en- lightened sons of science may pay willing homage, where the Great Spirit dwelt in storms, and gave the thunder his voice, and the lightning the flash of his anger ! GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. According to the report of the geological surveyor of the State of New Hampshire, Dr. C. T. Jackson, the feat- THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 9 ures of these mountains, geologically considered, possess little peculiar interest. The rocks in places consist of a coarse variety of mica slate, passing into gneiss, and con- taining a few crystals of black tourmaline, and quartz. The cone of Mount Washington and its summit are covered with myriads of angular and flat blocks, and slabs of mica slate, piled in confusion one upon another. These are identical in nature with the rocks in place, and leave no marks of transportation or abrasion by the action of water. The nucleus of these mountains is granite rock, and the mica slate found on the top of the different peaks is but a superficial crust ; and it is observable that the sedimentary deposit, or granite, has been disturbed by upheavals, which, with the action of a comparatively moderate heat for ages, has doubled back and twisted and broken these large sheets of mica slate, and left the fragments exposed in the wildest confusion, for mortal wonder. MINERALS. Various local traditions are in existence to prove the adventurous belief of many, that yet, in some unexplored or enchantment-guarded places, are mines of wealth of immense value. These tend to tantalize the imagination of many; with how much probability for future real- ization is not my province to decide. In this book will be found certain of these traditions, which, in their proper 10 HISTORICAL RELICS OF places are deemed worthy of record, for the gratification of public curiosity. The minerals yet obtained among these mountains are not satisfactory to the spirit of discovery. Southerly from the top of Mount Washington is found a vein of quartz, containing crystals of fluor-spar of an apple-green color, and crystallized in its primary form. This attracts the attention of collectors of minerals, and is worthy of notice as a curiosity. A few quartz crystals, in the form of six-sided prisms, also occur at the same place. Near the location of these crystals has been found, lately, a new bed of black tourmaline, which has furnished some finely-shaped crystals. These specimens are found in large masses of milk-quartz, near the routs to the summit of the mountain, from the old Crawford or Davis path. On a branch of Dry river, have been found some remarkably large and transparent specimens of quartz crystallization, and much search has been made there for a bed of dia- monds that are of a rare quality. An old hunter (San- born) is now living, who faithfully affirms that, many years ago, while fishing, up a small branch of Dry river, under the eastern side of Mount Pleasant, he came to a place where the water ran between two high white rocka so covered with perfect diamonds that it was blinding to his eyes to look upon the same. He succeeded in break- ing off three with his fish-pole, which he sold for five dol- THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 11 lars each, at Old Abel Crawford's. Several exploring parties have been in search of this treasure ; and as lately as 1853 the same old gray-headed hunter who made the discovery, went with two other treasure-seekers, armed with drills and powder, & " 12 M., 53.5 " " " Sunset, 45.7 " Thermometer stood lowest, 26th day, 24 " " " highest, 20th day, 66 " JULY, 1853. Average temperature at Sunrise, 43.5 deg. " " 12 M., 54.2 " " " " Sunset, 47.7 " Thermometer stood highest, 23d day, 66 " " " lowest, 7th day, 29 " AUGUST, 1853. Average temperature at Sunrise, 44 deg. " " 12 M., 51.5 " " " " Sunset, 47.5 " Thermometer stood highest, 1 1th day, 62 " " " lowest, 20th day, 30 " SEPTEMBER, 1853. Average temperature at Sunrise, 43.2 deg. " 12 M., 46.8 " " " Sunset, 44.2 " Thermometer stood highest, 6th day, 59 " " " lowest, 12th day, 24 " 92 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE TO THE JUNE, 1854. JULY, 1854. 1 3 N iH jj OQ Self- Register during night. S? R 1 ri e* IH 4 OQ Self- Register during night. 10 44 46 40 36 1 40 42 42 39 11 38 46 45 38 2 40 48 48 48 12 42 52 47 42 3 54 58 58 53 13 48 58 48 44 4 54 60 60 54 14 46 54 45 45 5 54 54 50 40 15 46 52 46 41 6 40 48 46 46 16 42 46 36 29 7 49 56 58 50 17 31 41 42 42 8 50 57 56 56 18 48 54 51 48 9 60 60 54 45 19 49 54 52 46 10 45 50 48 40 20 46 51 42 40 11 40 56 56 45 21 ^43 57 50 45 12 46 54 46 31 22 50 57 50 45 13 32 51 47 44 23 46 49 48 44 14 44 58 51 50 24 44 48 46 39 15 50 62 54 50 25 39 44 36 33 16 50 64 58 53 26 34 48 44 36 17 54 62 57 46 27 42 52 47 46 18 48 50 55 55 28 54 58 56 36 19 55 63 61 55 29 36 54 48 42 20 56 70 63 57 30 46 46 46 40 21 58 60 58 51 22 52 62 58 52 23 54 55 57 51 24 53 56 54 54 25 54 60 55 54 26 56 60 54 39 27 39 45 40 38 28 41 50 49 45 ~" 29 48 49 52 45 30 47 48 44 40 31 40 50 5) 48 WIIITE MOUNTAINS AND FRANCONIA. 93 AUGUST, 1854. SEPTEMBER, 1854. 1 1 ri d r-l 1 Self- Register during night. f