i P^pl55^^!g;5,J^^^,5H^!;;;;;^:,:.--, ' Lai f? _^ /n aY( } ^ c t^-J/ APPLETON'S EUROPEAN GUIDE BOOK. Q.y^ <£^fe h U /^"^^. ^ \ >'\ tri'i rri)\-s ciini- nooK, AUl'ElirisT\tENT:i. W. p. LILLICRAPP, JTut ^eal^^kiu Cloak e^akcr, anD General a9anufactucing: jFurncr« A Choice Stock of Rich Velvet Cloaks, Always on hand, Trimmed with Rich Furs, from 15 Guineas to 290 Guineas. Seal-Skin Cloaks, Choice in shape and rich in quality, from ;^7 ioj. to 35 Guineas. A Large Stock of Carriage Wrappers, From 2 Guineas to 40 Guineas. Gentlemen's Fur Coats, Of various kinds, from ^^5 to ^25. Gentlemen's Seal-Skin Vests, 25^. Fur Gloves, from i5.s\ to 35^-. SKINS DRESSED AND MOUNTED. jFurs tafeen cate of tiuring tfje Summer Mont\)s. Furs of every Description Cleaned, Altered, and Exchanged. W. p. LILLICRAPP, FURRIER, TSg %»j)ecial appointment to I^is Sopal I!?igl;nc0B tl;e ^prince of CCIalea. 27, Davies Street, Berkklkv Square. VI APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. DUNCAN, SHERMAN and CO. 1 1 , Nassau Street, New York City, ISSUE BILLS OF EXCHANGE ON BARING Bros, and CO., London and Liverpool. UNION BANK OF LONDON. UNION BANK OF SCOTLAND and Branches throughout Scotland. PROVINCIAL BANK OF IRELAND and Branches throughout Ireland. U. ZELLWEGER & CO., and HOTTINGUER & CO., Paris. ALSO ON HAMBURG, BREMEN, LEIPSIC, BERLIN, FRANKFORT, VIENNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN, ROME, AND THE principal CITIES OF NORWAY, SWEDEN, MEXICO, AUSTRALIA, THE WEST INDIES, AND THE UNITED STATES. Circular Notes and Circular Letters of Credit available and payable in all the principal Cities of the World. SPECIAL CREDITS ALSO FOR USE IN UNITED STATES, CANADA, AND WEST INDIES, Telegraphic Transfers of Money to and from London, Liverpool, Paris, San Francisco, Havanna, &c. Current Accounts received on such terms as may be agreed upon, vii Al'l'LETOX'S GUIDK BOOK, ADIKHTIHEMENTS. THE AMERICAN BANKING HOUSE OF BOWLES BROTHERS & CO. PARIS, NEW YORK, 12, Rue de la Paix, 19, William Street, BOSTON, LONDON, 76, State Street, 449, Strand, Charing Cross, OFFERS TO THK PUBLIC THE FOLLOWING FACILITIES : 1. — To receive Deposits at any one of said Offices, payable at any other, in Francs, Dollars, or Pounds Sterling, by telegraph (cable transfer), or by cheque, FREE OF Commission. II, — To make said Deposits payable by Drafts, Circular Credits, or Notes, at any or all other Bankable points, WITH Commission. 111. — To issue Circular Travelling Credits in advance of funds, upon approved personal or collateral security, payable in part or whole, at any of said points, for a commission of 1 per cent, and interest upon sum advanced thereon. IV. — To buy or sell exchange in any currency, cash credits of other Banks, make advances upon current securities in Europe or America, and execute orders for same in either market. V. — To effect Insurance— Marine, Fire, or Life. VI. — To receive valuables of any kind, upon " safe deposit." VI I. — To receive, sell, purchase, deliver, FOR Cash only, goods in any quantities. Vlii. — To store or forward Baggage or Express matter. IX. — To secure passages by any line of travel, FREE OF Com- mission. X.— To receive, deliver, or forward, Mail matter or Telegrams. XI. — To receive subscriptions or advertisements for prominent American journals. XII. — To supply general information upon American affairs, through its Reading Rooms and Registry Records, and otherwise to attend to anything pertaining to the syste- matic care of American interests abroad. Correspondents of the FollowtJig Banks : The Union Bank of London. Mf.ssrs. J. S. Morgan and Co. The Bank of California. The Oriental Bank Corporation, The National Bank of Scotland. Messrs. Wells, Fargo and Co. viii Al'PLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. N^fJiy F/ocumble at the only House in Eiigland for their exclusive sale. INGLIS & TINCKLER, 167, Regent Street, W., London. Manufactory, 7 & 8, Eustace Street, Dublin. PATTERNS FREE. DUBLIN PRICES CHARGED. IX APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. CHRISTIAN ADAMS & CO., HafiicB' fll^aniifiUtiiriiis sDutBttcW. k READY-MADE LINEN OF THE BEST MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP FOR MARRIAGE TROUSSEAUX. BABY LINEN in Sets, Robes, Hoods, Cloaks, ^c. JUVENILE CLOTHING in the most Fashionable Styles. KNICKERBOCKER SUITS and every Article in UNDER-CLOTHING. SILK AND MERINO VESTS AND DRAWERS. FRENCH COSTUMES. DRESS-MAKING. CHILDREN'S HATS, TRIMMED AND UNTRIMMED. PRIZE BALBRIGGAN HOSIERY. AWARDS FOR THIS CELEBRATED IRISH HOSIERY : — The Royal Dublin Society s Gold Medal, 1850. T/ie Gnat Exhibition Prize Medal, 1851, The Paris Exposition Prize Medal, 1855. The International Exhibition Award, 1862. For beauty of texture, elasticity, softness and durability, they surpass every other make. Christian Adams &: Co., for more than ten years sole West-End London Agents, have had all their Ho.se marked " C. A." to prevent fraud. GENTLEMEN'S HOSIERS. Spdcialite in Extra Stout Spun Silk Vests and Drawers. practical »)l)i'rt irT^iikcrs. 12. HoLi.Ks Street, Cavendtsti Square, London-, W. APPLETOWS GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. THE SURPLICE SHIRT, AS MADE TO MEASURE BY JOHN SAMPSON & CO. ©bitt Catlots. Longcloth Shirts, Linen Fronts, %s. 6d., C)S. 6d., los. 6d. each. All Litien Shirts, i^s. dd., i6x. dd., 21 jr. Flannel Shirts, xy. Gd. Silk Shirts, 2^s. Coloured French Cambric Shirts, 8jr. 6d. each. SPUN AND SILK HOSIERY IN VESTS, PANTALOONS, HALF HOSE, ETC. John Sampson & Co. call especial attention to their Pure Self Grey Lambswool Hosiery, free from dye, and will not shrink. REAL BALBRTGGAN HOSE AND HALF HOSE. £>enfs Best Toiun-niade Kid and Dogskin Gloves. Ladies' Hosiery of every description. JOHN SAMPSON & CO. 130, Oxford Street, W. {K'ear Holies Street, opposite Hareivood Gates.) No connection with any other Firm of the same name. XI |525HSESffi 3-25?5HSH5H525HSE5H52525HS25H5H5H5H525H5H5HSH5HSH5H525H5HS252S252SHS2SESH525a5J J P OIIN BROGDEN'S i8-carat GOLD CHAINS. ARIS FIRST-CLASS SILVHR MEDAL, 1867. J OHN BROGDEN'S ARCH/EOLOGICAL JEWELRY. J J J OHN BROGDEN'S BRACELETS. OHN BROGDEN'S BROOCHES. OHN BROGDEN'S GEM and WEDDING RINGS. TOHN BROGDEN'S NECKLACES. JOHN BROGDEN'S EARRINGS. r^RIGINAL GOLD CHAIN ^ MANUFACTORY. { ISJO. 16, HENRIETTA STREET. I ^^ CovENT Garden, W. C. fl LONDON. 8 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. EXPOSITION UNIVERSELLE. GOLD. SILVER. PARIS, E. M. REILLY and CO. invite the attention of Merchants and Shippers generally, to their extensive assortment of DIRECT ACTION, CENTRAL FIRE, BREECH LOADING GUNS AND RIFLES^ on the most approved systems, combining simplicity and durability with moderation in price. The shooting of all Guns and Rifles guaranteed, and trials solicited. Breech loading Pin Cartridge Guns and Rifles in great variety. Breech loading Capsule Revolvers, Air Canes, Wild Fowl, and every description of Muzzle loading Guns and Rifles. Illustrated Price Lists free by Post, and a liberal discount to Shippers. E. M. REILLY & CO., Gun and Rifle Manufacturers by Special Appointnioit to H.I.M. Napoleon III. 502, New Oxford Street, London, AND 2, Rue Scribe, Paris. Agents for the United States : — Messrs. J. C. Grubb & Co., Philadelphia, where an assortment of the above articles can always be obtained. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. LADY'S TROUSSEAU FOR ^50. OUTFITS TO INDIA, OUTFITS TO JAPAN, OUTFITS TO CHINA, OUTFITS TO AUSTRALIA, For £20, £40, £60, and £100. J^i/sf rublishcd : INDIAN OUTFITS: An Account of what is really neces- sary- for the Outfit of Ladies, Gentlemen, and Children for the long Sea and Overland Routes, with much valuable Information on many topics useful for the Voyage, and a i&w words on the new Brindisi Route. Post free, Six Stamps. " Ladies going abroad will find the little work under notice of con- siderable value." — The Qiuru. "The idea of writing this little book was a very good owq."'— Court Circular. BABY LINEN. Berceaunette, £2 loj., fully fitted, £3 10*. A Price List of Wt'ddiui^ Trousseaux, Baby LinetK Tiulian Outfits, Q^c. with S(i'e>iiv //lustrations ofiVix'/it Dresses, Petticoats, Critwlines, Morning Wrappers, Camisoles, Corsets, Baby Linen, c>r. gratis a net post free. MRS. ADDLEY BOURNE, 37, Piccadilly. Drrosm-: St. J.\me.s'.s Church. a iv APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. Us Special appointment. Special appointment, ESTABLISHED 1800. LAMBERT, Goldsjniths, Jewellers^ and Silversmiths THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES, THEIR MAJESTIES THE KING AND QUEEN OF DENMARK, HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH, THE UNITED STATES LEGATIONS, TO, II, AND 12, Coventry Street, London, W. Electro and Sheffield Plated Articles always in Stock. london-made cutlerv. valuations for probate and Distribution. Plate and Jewellery Purchased. Messrs. Lambert respectfully invite the attention of the American Clergy, Officers, and Gentry, to their large and varied Stock of Silver and Plated Articles, consisting of Curs, 'Waiters, Inkstands, Candelabra, Baskets, Snuff Boxes, Flasks, &c., suitable for Prizes, Testimonials, and Presentations ; a novel and elegant assortment of Jewellery and Crystal Intaglios, suitable for wedding or birth-day souvenirs. An e.r/ci/si7't' cJioict of Breakfast, Tea, and Dessert Seit'ices, and e7>ery irquisite for the Tal>h\ Sacrainpntal ^3latf. A Vast Collection of Second-hand and Antique Plate. Canteens fitted 7vith flic utmost despatch. APPLETOX'S EUROPEAN GUIDE BOOK I L L U S T U A T E D. INCLUDING KNGLAND, SCOTLAND^ AND IRELAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, HOLLAND, NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, SPAIN AND PORTUGAL, RUSSIA, DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN. CONTAINING A MAP OF EUROPE, AND MNK OTIIKU MAPS, WITH PLANS OF 21 OF THE PHINCIPAL CITIES, AND 125 ENGRAVINGS. 1871. LONDON: LONGMANS, GEEEN. READER, AND DYER, NEW YORK: D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. PAIUS: CALIGNANl & CO. ; X.VVIKR, BOYVEAU & CO. geneva: E.MONROE. BERLIN: S. CALVARY & CO. LEIP51C : A. DURR. VIENNA: GEROLD & CO. FRANKFORT- ON -THE- MAIN : C. ji'GEL; JOSEPH DAER. FLORENCE: E. GOOrBAN ; H. LOESCIIER. HOME : fi. Sri IIIOVEU !\^ Entereil, iiccordiiig to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by D. Appi-ETON and Co., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at WashinIain . 107. JNIayence to Darmstadt .... 108. Mayence to iMannheim, by Worms . 109. Frankfort-on-the-.Main to Ems, by Wiesbaden 110. Frankfort-on-the-.Main to Cassel 111. Frankfort to Nuremburg, by \\ ilrzburg . 399 409 410 413 424 424 425 425 429 431 448 449 449 451 t.i'J 453 10 • CONTENTS. Route 112. Frankfort to Homburg (Baths) 113. Frankfort to Munich, by Stuttgard . 114. Frankfort to Bale, by Heidelberg and Baden Baden 115. Munich to Ratisbon ..... 116. Augsburg to Lindau (Lake of Constance) 117. JMunich to Verona, by Innspruck 118. Munich to Vienna 119. Vienna to Dresden by Prague 120. Pi-ague to Niiremburg and Ratisbon, by Pilsen 121. Vienna to Trieste and Venice .... 122. Vienna to Pesth Page 457 458 470 476 478 479 482 492 501 503 507 ITALY. 123. Susa to Milan, by Turin . 124. Arona to Milan 125. Genoa to Milan, by Pavia 126. Milan to Como 127. Milan to Venice 128. Milan to Florence . 129. Florence to Venice, by Bologna and Padua 130. Florence to Pisa by Pistoja and Lucca 131. Florence to Leghorn, by Pisa . 132. Leghorn to Rome, by Civita Vecchia 133. Florence to Rome 134. Florence to Siena 135. Rome to Naples 136. Naples to Messina 137. Naples to Palermo 512 522 522 527 530 544 554 556 557 561 563 613 614 628 630 SPAIN. 138. Irun to Madrid, by Burgos .... 139. Bayonne to Madrid, by Pampeluna and Saragossa 140. Madrid to Toledo . " . 141. Madrid to Alicante .... 142. Madrid to Carthagena 143. Madrid to Valencia .... 144. Madrid to Cordova, Seville, and Cadiz 145. Madrid to Cordova and Malaga 146. Malaga to Granada .... 147. Valencia to Barcelona, by Tarragona 148. Barcelona to Madrid 149. Barcelona to Gerona 150. Madrid to Badajos and Lisbon 151. Lisbon to Oporto .... 6.33 638 641 643 644 645 647 656 657 660 662 663 664 667 RUSSIA. 152. Wierzbolow (Russian frontier) to St. Petersburg, by Wilna 153, St. Petersburg to Moscow 671 678 CONTENTS. Route 154. Moscow to Xijni Novgorod irto. St. Petersburg to Berlin, by Warsaw 156. St. Petersburg to Stockholm, by sea 11 68'^ 683 684 DENMARK, SWEDEN, AND NORWAY. 157. Hamburg to Copenhagen .... 158. Copenhagen to Elsinore .... 159. Copenhagen to Stockholm. 160. Stockholm to Gottenburg, by Gota Canal 161. Stockholm to Gottenburg, by railway 162. Christiania to Stockholm, bv railway 163. Christiania to Christiansand 164. Christiania to Bergen, by Eidsvold and the Fille-Fjeld 165. liergen to Ilammerfest, by sea .... 688 69i 691 695 697 697 699 700 704 LIST OF MAPS A^T> PLANS OF CITIES. MAPS. Europe, in cover. The Lakes of Killarney. The French Railways and their connections. The Bois de Boulogne. Versailles and the Trianons. Switzerland. Lake of Geneva and its environs. The Rhine from Mayence to Coblenz. The Rhine from Coblenz to Dusseldorf. The environs of Naples. PLANS OF CITIES. Dublin, Frankfort. Edinburgh. jNIunich. London. Vienna. Paris, in cover. Milan. Brussels. Venice. Strasburg. Florence. Rotterdam. Rome, in cover. Amsterdam. Naples. Geneva. Madrid. Berlin. St. Petersburgh. Dresden. INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. Puge SncA.Mtns l."5 Passports 1-t Expenses 19 Baggage iiO Custom Houses .... iiO CouRiEns 21 Railway Travelling . . 21 Page Hotels 22 Valets ue Place ... 23 Languages 24 Funds 21 Books 24 Table of Coins .... 28 STEAMERS. MERICANS intending to visit Europe are not limited in their choice of conve^'ance. There are no less than twelve lines of steamers plyinj^ regularly between the United States and Euro})ean ports. Among tJie shi|)S composing them are many of the finest vessels ever constructed. The ships of the Ciiuard line leave New York weekly, on U ednesday, for yueenstown and Liverpool — fare, in the first cabin, 130 dollars; in tiie second cabin, 80 dollars, gold. Those of tlie Ynman line leave New York weekly, on Saturday, for Queeustown and Liverpool — fare, in the first cabin, ioO dollars, gold ; in the steerage, 35 dollars, United States currency. Those of the North (ierniiin Lloyil, or Bremen line leave New York weekly, on Saturday, for Southampton and IJremen — fare, in the first cabin, I'JO dollars ; in the second cabin, 72 dollars ; in the steerage, 23 dollars, gold. Those of the Uainhurg line leave New York weekly, on Tuesday, for Plymouth, Cherbourg, and Hamburgii — fare, in the first cabin, 120 dollars ; in the second cabin, 72 dollars ; in the steerage, 25 dollars, gold. Those of the Transatlantic, or French line leave New York twice in each month for Brest and Havre — fare, in the first cabin, 140 dollars ; in the second cabin, 75 dollars, gold. Tliose of the Guion line leave New York weekly, on Wednesday, for Queeastown and Liverpool — fare, in tlie first cabin, 80 dollars, gold ; in the steerage, 30 dollars, currency. Those of the Xational line leave New York weekly, on Saturday, for Queenstown and Liverpool — fare, in the first cabin, 80 dollars and 100 dollars, gold ; in the steerage, 30 dollars, currency. Those of the London and Sew York line leave New York twice a month for London direct — fare, 90 dollars, 70 dollars, and 30 dollars in cur- 14 STEAMERS. introd- rency. Tliose of the Anchor line leave New York every Wednesday and Saturday, for Londonderry and Glasgow — fares, first cabin, 75 dollars and 65 dollars; steerage, 28 dollars, all in currency. Those of the " AlUui line" leave Quebec every Saturday, (during the winter months, from Nov. 1 to April, they sail from Portland,) fare, 80 dolls, and 70 dolls, gold. This Company despatches steamers at stated intervals from Baltimore to Liverpool. Those of the " White Star" line leave New York every Saturday for Liverpool, fare, 80 dolls, gold; steerage, 30 dolls, currency. The Canard Company dispatch an additional steamer on Thursday of each week for Queenstown and Liverpool — fare, in the first cabin, 80 dollars, gold ; steerage, 30 dollars, in currency. The Inman Company dispatch an additional ship, on alter- nate Tuesdays, to Halifax, Queenstown, and Liverpool — fare, in the first cabin, to Liverpool, 80 dollars ; Halifax, 20 dollars, gold ; in the steerage, to Liverpool, 30 dollars ; to Halifax, 15 dollars, currency. The f^orth German Lloyd dispatches ships twice in each month from Baltimore and from New Orleans to Southampton and Bremen. The Hamburgh Com- pany dispatch a ship twice a month from New Orleans, via. Havana to Hamburgh. There is little difference in point of safety and comfort between the ships of the various lines : most of them are of recent construction, are believed to be seaworthy, and are under the command of competent seamen. The dietary leaves little to be desired. Many travellers claim that the ships having state rooms on the main or dining-saloon deck are more comfortable than those having their first-class rooms below. It is certainly very desirable to be able to have the port-holes of one's cabin open every day except in the severest weather, as upon the Bremen, Hamburgh, and Guion lines ; and those who have crossed in winter by the ships of the lines named, will bear witness to the agreeable tempera- ture of the saloons and state rooms even in the coldest weather. In choosing a berth, the traveller who suffers from sea-sickness will find his condition less wretched amidships than at either of the extreme ends of the sliip. Prudent travellers are likely to go on board provided with a comfortable folding chair, and none but the inexperienced wear " stove-jiipe" hats at sea. Passengers will find it convenient to place articles needed on the voyage in a trunk small enough to go under- neath the state-room berth, and to allow the bulky baggage to go below. PASSPORTS. PASSPORT is an essential to the traveller who intends visit France,* Belgium,* Russia, or Portugal. It is not essential elsewhere, in countries described in this work ; but the author advises all travellers to be provided therewith. Its exhibition procures its jjossessor the entree to many galleries and ])laces of interest, whicli he could not otherwise see without diflSculty or delay. It is useful as a means of identification at post- offices, and at the offices of strange bankers. It cost is trifling, and it will be seen, from the directions we give, that it is very easily procured. * It is presumed that the regulations requiring passports in Belgium and France are temporary and will be rescinded as soon as tranquillity is fully restored in the latter country. INTROD. PASSPORTS. \:-> Diiectiomfor prociiriiig American Passports. One passport will be sufficient for husband, wife, and minor children ; other members of a party, except servants, must liaye separat.- pass- ports. The relationsliip between different members of the same family should be stated in the application. To procure a passport, the aj)plicant has only to transmit the follow- ing papers, by mail or otherwis.', to the Secretary of State at Washing- ton, requesting that a passport be made out and sent by mail to his address : — (1.) Applicant' f affiddvit nf citizenship, to be sworn to before a justice of the peace or notary public. State of ) [s.s. County of - ' I _ ~ , do swear that I was born at ._ on or about the day of , 18 ; that 1 am a (nutiie born or naturalised) citizen of the United States. Sworn to before me, this') day of 18 J r. .y. M. Revenue Stamp. cents. (Justice of the Peace, or Notary Public.) If the applicant is a naturalized citizen, his certificate of naturali- zation must accompany the affidavit. It will be returned to him with the passport. (2.) Affidavit of Witness. State of County of I, _. jdo swear that I am acquainted with - — , above named, and that, to the best of my knowledge and belief, the declaration above made by said - - is true. S.S. U. S. Bev. Stamp. 5 cents. Sworn to before me, this") day of- -, 18- (Justice of the Peace, or Notary Public.) 16 PASSPORTS. iNTROD. It will also be necessary to enclose the following oath of allegiance, sworn to in the same manner as the foregoing affidavits : — (3.) I, , of ,do solemnly swear that I will support and defend the Constitution and Govern- ment of the United States against all enemies, whether domestic or foreign ; and that I will bear true faith, allegiance, and loyalty to the same, any ordinance, resolution, or law of any State, Convention, or Legislature to the contrary notwithstanding ; and farther, that I do this with a full determination, pledge, and purpose, without any mental reservation or evasion whatsoever; and farther, that I will well and faithfully perform all the duties which may be required of me by law. So help me God. U. S. Rev. Stamp. 5 cents. Sworn to and subscribed before me, this day of ,18 (Justice of the Peace, or Notary Public.) Annexed to the application should be the following description of the person : — (4). Age .... Stature . . . Feet, inches. Forehead . . . (High or low or medium). Eyes .... (Colour). ISiose .... (Large, small, or medium). Mouth ... ,, „ Chin .... (Long or short). Hair .... (Colour). Complexion . . (Light or dark). Face .... (Round or oval). No visa or other formality is necessary, after the passport is procured, until the traveller reaches Europe, when either at London or Paris he will procure the visa of the American Minister (if at London), or Con- sul (if at Paris), and afterwards that of the Minister of the country he proposes visiting — Russia, Rome, or Portugal, as the case may be. Directions for procuring British Passports. 1. Applications for Foreign Office Passports must be made in writing, and inclosed in a cover addressed to " The Cliief Clerk, Foreign Office, London," with the word " Passport " conspicuously written on the cover. 2. The charge on the issue of a passport, whatever number of per- sons may be named in it, is 2*. ; and if it is desired that the passport should be sent by post, that sum must be forwarded with the applica- tion for the passport by a post-office order, made payable at the post- INTROD, PASSPORTS. 17 office, Charing Cross, London, to the chief clerk at the Foreign Office. I'ostasje stamps will not bo receivt-d in paymont. S. Foroii;ii Ullice p:u*s[)orts art- lijrniitcd f)nly to British-born subjects, or to sucli foreigners ns have become naturalized, either by act ot Far- lianient or by a certificate of naturalization granted by the Secretary of State for tlie Home J^epartment. When the party is a " naturalized British subject," he will be so designated in his passport; and, if his certificate of rtnturalization be dated subse(|Upntly to the ■2Hh of August, 185a, and previously to the 1st of August, 1858, his passport will be marked as good for one year only; or, should the certiticate be dated subsequently to the 1st of August, 1858, his passport will in that case be marked as good for six months only, except in cases where a license for a longer period of rcsiuenue abroad has been granted by the Secre- tary of State for the Home Department; but this regulation will not preclude any person whom it affects from obtaining at tlie Foreign (3ttice, at any future time, on his producing his old passport, a new passport in exchange for it for a further limited period, without being re(piired to pay a fresh charge. A Foreign Otttce Passport granted to a British-born subject, or to a " naturalized British subject" who has been naturalized by act of Parliament, or whose certiticate of n itural- ization is dated previously to the 2-kh of August, 1850, is not limited in point of time, but is available for any time, or for any number of jour- neys to the Continent. 4. Passports are granted to all persons either known to the Secretary of State or recommended to him by some person who is known to him ; or upon the application of any banking firm established in London or in any part of the I'nited Kingdom ; or upon the production of a certi- ficate of identity signed by any mayor, magistrate, justice of the peace, minister of religion, physician, surgeon, solicitor, or notary, resident in the United Kingdom. 5. If the applicant for a passport be a naturalized British subject, his certificate of naturalization, with his signature subscribed to the oath printed on the third page of it, must be forwarded to the Foreign Office with the certificate of identity granted on his behalf; and his certificate of naturalization will be returned with tlie passport to the person who may have granted the certificate of identity, in order that he may cause such naturalized British subject to sign the passport in his presence. The asjents at the out]>orts are not authorized to grant passports to naturalized British subjects, and such persons, if resident in London or in the suburbs, should ap])ly personally for their passports at the F"oreign Othce. 6. I'assports are issued at the Foreign Office between the hours of 11 and 4 on the day following that on which the application for the passport has been received at the Foreign Office ; but the passj)orts will be issued at the outports immediately on application, accompanied bj' the production of a certificate of identity, within such hours as may be fixed with regard to the convenience of persons desirous of embarking for the Continent. 7. A passport cannot be sent by the Foreign Office, or by an agent at an outport, to a person already abroad; such person, being a British- born subject, should apply for one to the nearest British mission or consulate. A passport cannot be issued abroad to a naturalized British u 18 PASSPORTS. iNTROD. subject, except for a direct journey to England, or, in the case of a colonial naturalized subject, for a journey back to the colony where he has been naturalized. Neither can a passport oranted at the Foreign Office to a naturalized British subject for a limited period be renewed by Her Majesty's diplomatic or consular agents in foreign countries; but only at the Foreign Office. 8. The bearer of every passport granted by the Foreign Office should sign his passport as soon as he receives it : without swch signature either the visa may be refused, or the validity of the passport questioned abroad. Travellers about to proceed to Russia, Turkey, and Portugal, can have their passports vise at the under-mentioned places respectively : for Russia, at the Russian Consulate, 32, Great Winchester-street ; for Turkey, at the Turkish Embassy, 1, Bryanstone-square ; and for Por- tugal, at the Portuguese Consulate, 5, Jettrey's-square. Travellers who may have any intention to visit the Russian em- pire at any time in the course of their travels, are particularly and earnestly advised not to quit England without having had their pass- ports vise at the Russian Consulate in London. Model Form of Certificate of Identity, to be written out in full, signed and sealed by the person giving il ; and also by the persoti in whose behalf it is granted. (Date of place and day of the month). The undersigned, mayor of (mf/gisfra(e, 7»sijce of the peace, minister, physician, surgeon, solicitor or notary, as the case may be), residing at hereby certifies that A. B, (Cliristian and surname to be written at length), whose signature is written at foot, . a British subject, , . , , , • IS r — . ,. , r-- — and requires a passport to enable him a naturalized British subject, — -. -j — T-^ — -■ (accompanied, as the case may be, 6i/ his wife to travel on tlie Continent ^ ' ' j ; . ^ and children, with their tutor, named C. D. (Christian and surname to be .a Rritisli subject, written at length), y. — , „ . . , p — and governess, ° " (/ nutnrc.lizcd British subject, and maid servant [or servantsi, and man servant [or servants^, named E. F., a British subject [or subjects'], and a courier, named G. H., a naturalized British subject). Signed ( With the usual signature). (Seal). Siernature of the above-named Persons preparing to travel may be spared the necessity of personal attendance at the Foreign Office and of procuring visas, by employing one of the London Passport Agents, who, on being apprized that the application has been forwarded to the Foreign Office will at once pro- cure the passport and the necessary visas. Edward Stanford, 6 and 7, Charing-cross, W.J.Adams, 59, Fleet-street, and Lee and Carter, 440, West Strand, are Passport Agents, and will give any required infor- mation. iNTnoD. EXPENSES. 19 EXPENSES. I T isimpossible to estimate tlie expenses of travelling' in Kurojie, as tliey must depend upon the habits anil meansoftlie travel- ler, and llie rapidity witli whicii lie travels. I'liose who travel in tile lirst-class, and live at the best hotels, will expend from one-third to one-half more tiian those who travel in the second class and content themselves witii more modest lodginj^s. Hotel char-^'-es in the large cities of tireat Britain and the (Jontinent are very nearly the same. Single persons occujiyin^ a bedchamber without sittinf^-rouni may live very comfortably at fir&t-class hotels at from;? dolhirs to 1- dollars, say Itis. or '20 francs, ])er day.j \'ery comfortai)le accommodation may be had in / good hotels of tlie secftnd class for twoJoUais, or say 8s. or 10 francs, ">. per day, lodging ami meals included.jy ery comfortable bed-rooms are ' to be found even at the Langham, an(V^:haring Cross, and other large hotels in London, on the upjicr Hoors (to be always conveniently reached by the lifi, or ascending room), for 3s. 6d. jier day ; service is i charged is. 6d. per day. A plain breakfast may be hacl for Is. 6d., "|v^ lunch for '2j>., and a dinner by the carte at from 3s. to -Is. : orsav, taking the larger estimate, l'2s. 6d. per day, eijual to 3 dollars?Vlt would be very easy to live comfortably at hotels of the same cla*^ for even less than the sum named. At I'aris and in other large cities on the Conti- nent, one may live very comfortably at hotels of the first class for 2 dollars 50 cents to 3 dollars, or 12 to 15 francs per day, but for this price a bedchamber only could be afforded; a salojir, or sittinif-room, adds from 10 to 15 francs ])er day to this price, f Very comfortable v'^ board may be had in respectable boarding-houses, ar-pensioits, in Lon- don and Paris, for 10 francs per day, including room, service, and meals. Kespect;ible pensions in Paris receive boarders even at 8 francs per day^ One thay estimate the average cost of travelling on the Continent, in the first class, by express trains, at 5 francs jii^r hour. For instance, the fare from Paris to Coloj^Mie, 11 i hours, is 67 francs 15 centimes; from Paris to Frankfort, via Strasbourg or Cologne, 16 hours, it is 81 francs 15 centimes. In France and in other countries on the Conti- nent, the express trains generally consist of first-class carriages onlv. The fares in the second class are about one-fourth less, and in the third class about one-half less than in the first class. Railway fares are about '25 per cent, higher in Great Britain than on the Continent. The entire expenses of a person travelling first class, making the usual stops to visit objects of interest on the route, may be put down at 28 shillings, or 7 dollars per day in Great Britain, and 6 dollars per day in other parts of Europe. Travellers going in the second or tiiird class upon the railways, and seeking the smaller and more economical hotels, or who reside in pensions in the large towns, may travel for one-third less. The author has known many respectable tourists who have made extensive tours in F.urope at an average cost of 3 dollars jier daj*. A well-known author, in speaking of the expenses of a tour in ICurope, says, " They must vary according to the tastes, the habits, the age, and the intelligence of the traveller ; the weight of his baggage, the number composing his party, the distance he travels in a given time, and many other things. Two dollars a day ought to suffice for a young man who \N^-u ^v^,, ^ t^V u 20 EXPENSES. introd. carries his own baggage, dispenses with useless guides, and is willing to travel in third-class cars." One need not be ashamed to travel in the way indicated, it' it is necessary to do so. Many very respectable persons travel in third-class cars. An eminent American scholar, who made an extensive tour in Germany not long since, informed the author that he travelled in the third class as the best means of coming in contact with the learned men of the country. He found professors and students frequently, if not generally, travelling in the cai'S of that class. BAGGAGE. GREAT diversity exists in the advice given by wiiters of guide-books as to the amount of baggage to be carried by tourists. On the ocean steamers no limit is made, and what- ever may be the rules of the different steamshiji companies on the subject, practically the passenger is allowed to carry all the personal baggage he may desire. On land, however, it is quite different, the quantity allowed to each traveller being strictly limited, and the carriage of the excess being charged for at high rates. On the Rhine railways, and on most of the railways of Germany, a charge is made for all baggage except such as is placed within the carriage ; a carpet bag or other article of baggage small enough to go easily underneath the seat, or to be placed upon the racks inside the carriage, is carried without charge. (An ordinary hand-trunk, eighteen or twenty inches in length, and not more than nine inches in height, will go underneath the seats of railway carriages.) Persons who can travel with such articles of baggage as can be conveniently carried in the hand, will save much expense, to say nothing of the annoyance of being obliged to be early at stations for the purpose of registering packages, and the greater annoyance of waiting half an hour or more after their arrival at their jou7ney's end until all the baggage in the train is assorted and ready for delivery. On the other hand, one who travels with so limited a supply of (?nperfi;neH fa must obviously submit to many inconveniences and discomforts for want of requisite supplies of clothing and other necessaries. The only proper advice to be given to travellers is to take as litth' as possible, but not to leave behind, for fear of annoyance and a little extra expense, comforts and necessaries to which they are accustomed at home, and the want of which will be more than ever felt abroad. CUSTOM HOUSES. 'ERSONS carrying personal baggage only have little to fear in their encounters with Customs officials in any part of Europe. In Great Britain, tobacco, wines, and spirits, and American or other reprints of English books, are the chief objects of search. It is presumed that no traveller will have more than enough of the two former for his OAvn proper use, and if he desires to prevent their confiscation, he will leave the latter at home. The same scrutiny is observed on the Continent as to tobacco and spirits. In the examination, both in Great Britain and on the Continent, the officers rarely examine more than a single package of the baggage of each passenger or party, and that examination is politely made. Civility iNTROD. CUSTOM HOUSES. 21 anil :i readiness on the part of the passenger to submit to the re(|uire- inents oftlie hiw will ensure civility in r>'turn. It is well Cor travellers inakinij their first tour to iini)ress this fact ujion their minds; nothing is gained by trealiiii,'- with discourtesy or petulance ofiicers changed bv law with the performance of a disagreeable duty. I'ersons wlio have in their possession articles subject to duty, or as to which there exists any doubt on this point, will do better to frankly exhibit them to the officer, and submit patiently to bis decision. COURIERS. GREAT diversity of opinion exists among travellers in rela- tion to the employment of couriers, or travelling servants. The author has heard many travellers of experience, who could well artbrd to employ them, declare that they would on no account do so; and he has heard many others, similarly situated as to means, declare that on no account wouhl they travel without one. After more than ten years of travelling in Europe, sometimes with and sometimes wiiliout a courier, tlie author ventures the opinion that, while to single gentlemen, or to small j)arties of gentlemen in health, the ser^'ices of a courier will hardly repay the cost, to parties which include ladies or children his services, if he is intelligent and faithful, are most valuable, and, if the expense can be afforded, should be secured. Besides acting as interpreter, he attends to the purchase of tickets, the registration of baggage and the securing of eligible jilaces in trains, duties which, at crowded stations and in the hurry and confusion of departure, most travellers are glad to delegate. It is his duty to select the hotels at which his employer is to lodge, to secure rooms, to attend to the delivery of baggage, to atljust hotel and other bills, to act as valet de place in cities and places of interest, and to perform generally all the duties of a personal servant. It is easy to see, from this brief catalogue of his duties, that if they are faithfull}- performed he will save bis employer much discomfort and annoyance. Respectable couriers (and it is best always to exact certificates of character as well as skill) may be had at from £10 to £l2 per month. Jiesides their wages, their fares must be paid (they expect to go in the second class if the trains on which they travel contain cars of that class), and though they alwavs claim that they are free guests at hotels, or that tiiey pay their own hotel ex]>enses, there is good ground for believing tliat tlie employer pays for this in the increased rate of charges which lie Hiuls in his bill. RAILWAY TRAVELLING. 11 E author is well aware that a majority of English and Ame- rican travellers will not stop to inquire in relation toanv class of conveyance ujion railways or otherwise, except the first class. It will interest many travellers, however, to know, that on many routes in Great Britain the cars of the second class ( which are to be found on all trains) are very nearly as comfortable as tliosc of the first, the principal difference being in the curtains and carpeting. For several years improvements have been constantly made in the second class cars in Great Britain, especially upon the through express trains. 22 RAILWAY TRAVELLING. introd. The difference in price between tne various classes is considerable, and many well-to-do Englisbmen travel in the second and even in the third class. The second-class cars in Belgium and France are very nearly equal, and those in Germany and Switzerland are fully equal, in point of comfort, to most lirst-class cars in England. On several of the great Frencli railways the through express trains are made up of first-class carriages only. In Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy second- class carriages accompany all trains. 1 ravellers wishing to take the second class in France must therefore content themselves with a dimi- nished rale of speed. In travelling from Paris or any other place in France into Germany by express trains, the traveller may purchase a mixed ticket, entitling liim to travel in the first class to the frontier, and thence to his destination in the second. Very few Germans travel in the first class in their own country, the cars of that class being given up to foreigners. It is stated on good authoi'ity that out of every 100 travellers upon the German railways, 4 travel in the first class, 26 in the second, and 70 in the third class. It would be impossible, in a work of this character, to give reliable information as to the hours of the departure of the trains. Although changes in the running of trains are much less frequent than in America, they are sometimes made ; and the traveller, to avoid all difficulty on this score, should, on his entrance into each country, purchase at the first railway station tlie local railway time-tables, which are always to be had for a trifle. In England, " Bradshaw's Railway Guide" (not to be con- founded witli " Bradshaw's Continental Guide"); in France, " Chaix's Indicateur des Chemins de Fer ;" in Germany, " Hendschel's Tele- graph," are the best. In Great Britain, France, and Switzerland, compartments are set apart for persons who wish to smoke, and no smoking is allowed in any other, except with the consent of the occupants. The guard will always inter- fere to prevent smoking in the other compartments if he is requested to do so. In Germany, smoking is allowed in all carriages which are not designated by the officers of the train or placarded, " For those who do not smoke" {Fur ]}^ichtiauclier). HOTELS. ?HE names of hotels are inserted in this Guide-Book immedi- ately after the names of cities or towns, and in the order of their merit. The characters of hotels are given either from the author's own knowledge, or from that of respectable per- sons who are well known to him. \Vliere changes for the better may have occurred in any hotel not favourably noticed, the author, on re- ceiving satisfactory evidence through his publishers of such improve- ment, will be glad to make the proper corrections in future editions. It is advisable, before reaching any town where the traveller is to stop, to fix upon the hotel at whicli he intends to reside, and on coming out of the railway station, or on leaving a steamer, to at once call for the porter of tliat hotel. This announcement will relieve him from the clamours of the mob of porters and touters who in many places attend upon the arrivals of trains and steamers. Having reached the hotel, the tourist will find it to his advantage to ask to be shown the apartment which the hotel-keeper proposes to assign iNxnoD. HOTELS. 23 to him, and to ask the price, if even for one day; and this before the biiETS'iK'^ '■'* di'|)osite(l in the hotel and ihi; cab lias been sent away. Pliilli|is, in his rccently-jiublished " (juidc," says on this point, " Jt is always prudent to ask, and, if need be, discuss the price of apartments before occupying; theni. In order that the umoiir propre of my reader may not be wounded, let me say that this precaution is now the mode ; the English, who are wise tourists, havinjj given us the excellent ex- ample.' If any traveller will take the trouble to test theefHcacy of this advice, he will be surjirised to see how much the course here recom- mended will diminish his daily expenditure. There is no impropriety in askint^ the price of entertainment in advance, and Americans would do well to follow in this respect the exanijile of their Hritish cousins. Travellers intending; to leave by early mornini; conveyances, should see that jiroper notice to that effect is given to the porter, and that the hotel bill is ])resented, before they retire for the night. The author deems it proper to add that recommendations of hotels or other establishments in this C«uide-Book cannot be obtained by purchase; and that no person has heen, or will be authorised to contract with hotel- keepers or other persons for favourable notices therein. XoTK. — \\ lien there are several hotels of the first class in any town or city, and tlie autlior wishes to indicate that they are of very nearly equal merit, the names are printed in capital letters. VALETS DE PLACE. !T is best, if the traveller is not accompanied by a courier who is thoroughly ac(]uainted with the chief cities upon the Con- tinent, to employ at once, upon his arrival, a competent local guide, or valet de place. Tliey can always be found at the principal hotels. If a little care is taken to ascertain if the valet is com- petent to jioint out the objects best worth seeing, and to give correct in- formation in relation to them, his employment will not only be a source of saving, but will add greatly to the interest of the traveller's visit. As much may generally he seen in a single day under the guidance of a competent valet ;is in two days if the traveller makes his way unaided. An experienced valet will frequently procure admission to places which are ostensibly closed to the public, and he generally pays much less for pour boire, or gratuities, than the traveller himself would jiav. Caution should ba exercised in making purchases at shops recommended by valets, as they are naturally- disposed to favour those who pay them the highest rate of comniission u])on sales to persons introduced by them. These commissions are, of course, added to the price of the articles purchased. In a few of the Routes the author has given the names of valets de place who are known to him to be competent and trustworthy. The wages usually demanded are from five to seven francs per day. LANGUAGES. ^ff HE tourist who would receive the maximum of advantage and ' of pleasure from a tour in Europe, should be familiar with _, - the languages of the countries which he visits. He who has ■^^ no knowledge of them will derive much less pleasure from his travels than he who possesses a little ; but let no one hesitate to 24 FUNDS. iNTROD. undertake the tour of Europe if circumstances have rendered it im- possible for him to acquire even a smatteruig of its tongues. The Eng- lish language is spoken at all the leading hotels frequented by strangers upon the Continent ; in every city, valets de place who speak English are to be found, and, at terminal stations upon the great lines of travel, in- terpreters, licensed or employed by the companies, are present, to assist travellers on their arrival and departure. FUNDS. *HE most convenient way of carrying money for use in Europe is by a traveller's " letter of credit," issued by a banker who deals in credits of that kind. These letters are available in every part of Europe. American travellers may procure tliem of several banking houses in New York ; among others, of Brown, Brothers, and Co., August Belmont and jCo., Duncan, Sherman, and Co., Morton, Bliss and Co., John Munroe and Co.,* I'ucker, Andrews, and Co.,* Drexel, W inthrop, and Co.,* Bowles, Brothers, and Co.* English travellers may procure letters of credit from any of the leading London or pronvicial bankers. A very convenient as well as economical and safe way of carrying- money is in circular 7iotes, wliich are issued in denominations of £10 and £20, and in larger denominations, by Morton, Rose and Co., the Union Bank of London, the London and Westminster Bank, and several of the leading banking houses. These notes are available throughout Europe. English sovereigns pass currently in Belgium, Holland, and Ger- many; but the most advantageous coins in any jjart of the Continent are Napoleons, which are everywhere current. We will end our chapter of advice by quoting from a well-known editor the following advice to travellers (taking the liberty of changing a word or two) : — " We advise the traveller to make up his mind beforehand what line of route he proposes to follow, and gain some acquaintance with the countries before setting out, by perusing the best works descriptive of them ; that he should lay in such a stock of good temper and patience as is not likely to be exhausted whatever mishaps may befall him, and that he should divest himself as soon as possible of his prejudices, and especially of the idea of the amazing superiority of his own over all other countries, in all respects." BOOKS. fllE author desires to acknowledge his , indebtedness to the authors of the following works, from which he has derived valuable assistance. He deems it his duty to state that tourists who intend to spend time enough in Europe to thoroughly explore its by-ways as well as its great thoroughfares, and to whom the cost and bulk of the works named are not objectionable, will do well to purchase Black's Guides to England, Ireland, and Scotland, three * These firms have branch establishments at Paris. INTROD. BOOKS. 25 volum.'S, niul Murray's Ilarulbooks, coinprisiuj,' about thirty-five voluiiits — Haeilcker's Cjuide-Uooks, L-leveu vuluincs ; and " L(>s(iuul>-3 Joanne," about twenty volumes. All the works named are admirably compded, and contain a large amount of matler of great interest to the student and man of letters, as well as tbe tourist, and the works ofeacb author contain much of value which is not included in those of other writers. The author, in conducting the traveller to the objects best worth seeing in the great cities of Jlnrojie, lias been careful to omit nothing the omission to see which would cause regret, but he has been com- pelled to omit many things of secondary interest to which com])ilersof heal guide-books devote their attention. Travellers who intend to spend a considerable time in the great cities, and who desire to explore them more minutely than they will be able to do umlerthe guidance of the present work, will find, in nearly all of them, local guide-books, which are generally accurate and exhaustive. He desires to esi)ecially commend Murray's Modern London and Cialigiiani's I'aris Guide. The autiior has not hesitated to cpiote, from the works of writers of acknowledged rejjutation, descriptions of interesting objects. In all cases in which he has adojited the phraseology of others, he has been careful to give due acknowledgment. On this subject the editor of Murray's lland-lJook for Northern Italy well says: — "Tile compiler of a Handbook is liapi>ily relieved, by the necessity of being useful, from the pursuit of that originality of a tourist which consists in omitting to notice i;reat works hfcuiisc tlietj huie been noticed bif others, and in crying up some object which has hitherto been de- servedly pas.sed over, it would, moreover, be a misfortune, if the editor of a Guidebook of Italy were ambitious of composing an original work. Italy has been so long studied that all its most interesting sites and works have been repeatedly and carefully described ; and so much has been written, and by persons of such ability and acquirements, that the most difficult task is" that of compiling and of .selecting materials. " Although, therefore, the Editor has had the benefit of repeated per- sonal examination, he has not scrupled to use freely the numerous works which treat upon the subject. As it is scarcely possible, in the comj)ass of a Ilandbosk, where space is so valuable, to indicate whence passages have been extracted, the following works are here men- tioned as those which have been chiefly used, in order to protect the Kditor from the charge of borrowing without acknowledgment, and that the traveller may, if he wishes, seek in them further information." Thefolloidng, among ofJier ivorls, have hecn consulted in the preparation of this Guide Booh. Ireland and the Irish, by S. C. Hall. The Irish f^ketch Hook, by \\ . M. Thackeray. Homes and Haunts of the British Poets, by W. Howitt. Visits to Remarkable Places, by W. Howitt. The Land of Hums, by Professor Wilson and R. Chamben". Caledonia, by W . Heattie. History of England, by Macaulay. 26 BOOKS. iNTROD, A Collection of Chronicles and ancient Histories of Britain, now called England, by John de Waurin. The Sketcli iiook, by Washington Irving. The History of Scotland, from the Accession of Alexander III. to the Union, by Patrick Fraser Tytler. The History of Scotland, from Agricola's Invasion to the Revolution of 1688, by Hill Burton. Dean Ramsay's Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character. Tlie Scenery of .Scotland, in connexion with Phj'sical Geology. First Impressions of England and its People, by Hugh Miller. Wild Wales : its People, Laaguage and Scenery, by George Borrow. Knight's Geography of the British Empire. Etudes sur I'Angleterre, par Leon Faucher. The Statesman's Year Book, 1870. Les plus belles Eglises du JMonde, Mame et fils. Clarendon's History of the Rebellion. De Cloet, Voyage pittoresque dans le Royaume des Pays-Bas. Marmier, Lettres sur la HoUande. Motley's United Netherlands. Motley's Rise of the Dutch Republic. Kugler, Handbook of Painting (German, Flemish and Dutch Schools). Ch. Blanc, Histoire des Peintres de toutes les Ecoles. Description Geographique de la Belgique, par Tarlier. Excursions en Belgique, par A. Vasse. Moeurs, Usages, etc. des Beiges, par Moke. History of the French Revolution, A. Thiers. Les Gn-ondins, A. de Lamartiue. Histoire du Consulat et de I'Empire, A. Thiers. Alpine Journal (The), by Members of the Alpine Club. Engelmann, Bibliotheca Geograpliica. A Physician's Holiday, London, 1858. Forbes and Tyndall, On the Alps and their Glaciers. Manget (J. L.), Le Lac de Geneve, Chamounix, le Mont- Blanc. Oberland Bernois (L'), sous les Rapports Historique, Scientifique, et Topographique. Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, by JMembers of the Alpine Club, 1st and 2nd Series, London, Longman, 1862. Smith (Albert), Mont Blanc' Switzerland, by VV. Beattie. Allemagne (De'l), par Madame de Stael. Almanach de Gotha. Annuaire diplomatique et statistique. Bubbles from the Brunnens of Nassau, by an Old Man. Deutschland, sein Volk und seine Sitten, von M. Biffart. Eight Weeks in Germany, by a Pedestrian. Handbuch fiir Reisende in Deutscliland, von Dr. Ernst Fnerster. Hendschel's Telegraph. Homburg and its Mineral Waters, with a notice of Nauheim. Musees d Allemagne (Les), par Louis Viardot. German Life and Manners, by iMayhew. Rural and Domestic Life of Germany, by W. Howitt. Rheinland (Das), von Carl Simrock. Rhin (Le), Lettres a un Ami, par Victor Hugo. INTROD. BOOKS. 1'7 Rhine (Tlio), tlii' most interesting Legends, Traditions, and Histories, by Joseph Snowe, Esq. Spas of (iermany (Tlie), by IJr. Granville. Gibbon's Rise and Fall of tlic Roman Hmi>ire. Six months in Italy, by G. S. Hillard. Sismondi's Italian l{e])ublics. Hist, de Cieiies, par \ mcens. Hist, de la Ui'publiqiie de \'enise, par Darn. Roscoe's Lorenzo de ."\Iedici. History of Arcliitfcturc, by IIo])p. The Kcdesiastical Architecture of lt;ily, by Ciall}' Knight. Ruskin's Ston(>s of \ enice. Publications artistitjues relatives a Rome, a 2Saples, et a la Sicile. Lanzi's Itiilian Painters. Dictionnaire histori(pie des Peintres des toutes les f>coles, par Ad. Siret. The Life of .Michael-Angelo Buonarotti, by Jolin Harford. Pinacotica de Rrera, descritta da Gironi e incisa da .Mich. Rissi. Tableaux, Statues, &c. de la Galerie de Florence et du Pahiis Pitti, par \\ icar. L'lmp. et Reale Galleria Pitti, incisa e publicata da Luigi Bardi. Reale Galleria di F'irenze (Uttizi). Roba di Roma, by \V. \V. Story. Observations on italy, J5ell. Roscoe's Leo the Tenth. Istoria Civile del regno di Napoli, par Giannone. Hist, du Royanme de Naples (17.'3-4-1825), par CoUetta. Gell's Pompeii. Pomjieii, by Clarke. Les Musics d'ltalie, Guide et Memento de 1' Artiste et du Voyageur, ])ar L. \'iarine de LAndalousie, Souvenir d'un S^jour a Seville, par ^L Paulin Niboyet. Noticia de los principales Monumentos Historicos de Sevilla. Tour du Monde (Le). Voyage en Espagne, par Gustave Dorc et Ch. Uavillier. Voyage en Espagne, par le ^Marquis de Langle. Voyage en Espagne, jiar Theojibile Gautier. Portugal illustrated, by Kinsey. Portugal (Le), i)ar M. Ferdinand Denis. o 1/2 H S5 P W a H Ph O >H W W ;zi PH O Q ^ P H H w H ^ 1— 1 ^^ 13 CO ;Ji pq s S 1 o N^ U3 n (3 t-1 o 'fe^ ■ P^ s < w > -^ W H ;^ J^ < ) ■i> Ph ^ O '-^ M <1 t) 1-1 < H > H s oococns^ ; th Oi CTi Ci o^ o< ^ O'COO'MOOOO !£> CO TT t- S< so 0?N0tHt-itHtH3^ Ci^ c fcoe^oiOiHii^o "^ CO »o o "0 »c -Ti O^ C^ Cl Oi ©^ 'O SM 03 ^O O O ©J CO CO S^ S^ -^ -H -H ■H -H -H e^ ■^ o 5-- UO O CO *3 . I> Oi CM -* O >^ S-J O CO CO O 'O 'o -1" th CO e^ -* OS<0-H'-lTH-rt(?» "■'-O c c o o o o f; ^ CO O t^ CO tH O ■H tH S^ gtOiC-CCiOiOt^ OC05OOOOO O ~ O O 'O 'O C' S'> ■rH tH tH -tH ^ tH OtHC-iHOOOtH oT S '-' ^ — aj " 0) p ^ CO o o o r>^»0 O O >*< ©J ■M Ssl o c:; lO o CO «o a- CO O O O VC O^ S^ 3^ nooooooo S< t> tH tH iO CO -H'O-HCOS^f^lO*^ ws i30a.-^3^coco«o T-l T-l tH tH tH ^tHOOOOOt-I t-iC0O3^tH— (-t-ICO oooooooo SrS^S ^oocooooo s "3 .t^ +J COCOCftOiOOCOO o u Q o .'2P '3 IS 0) ^ ^ « ^ p.SS _s O ^o ;:- C o ci C .™ 'C O i; 0) ^ g o o tf . ^ .^ . CO ~"o„'"=ij5 = "^ i S ^~' '^ '*' 3 ."J.-^U* 5 c fl fl'S T/5? a;'3'S S'S Si H fi^ O H fi< tH S Kock (11 miles), at which point the cars are left, and the tourist proceeds on horseback or on foot to Lord Bran- don's cottage (4 miles), where the boat is taken. As we leave the Gap we see, on the right, the Black X'alley, so called from the sombre aspect it J)resent6 ; this dark colour is caused by the great height of the bills which bound it, and the large quantity of pe.ity matter dissolved in the water ot its lakes or pools. Till' largest of tliegn lakes is called the " Lake of the Char, or Red Trout." The valley has a tragic and imposing aspect, and is re- garded by many as more striking than the Gap it-self. Lonn Brandon's Cottage (15 miles), from which jioint one may easily ascend the Pur]de .Mouri- tain.from which viewsare obtained of the Upper and Middle Lakes, the Reeks, the Black \'alley, and, farther off, of Bantry Bay, the mouth of the Shannon, and the open sea. S6 Route 3.— CORK TO KILLARNEY. IRELAND. The Lakes of Kii.lahnev are three in number, called tlie Upper J^ake, Tore, or the Middle Lake, and the Lower Lake, called also Lough Leane. The length of the Upper Lake iR?^ miles; itcontains twelve small islands, the princijial ones being' IM'Carthy's and Arbutus, the lat- ter 80 called from the great quan- and, inclining to the right, and passing under the arches of tlie Old Weir Bridge, "we enter the ■waters of the beautiful Tore or Aiiddle Lake." It covers an area of 680 acres, and contains four islands, the largest being Dinisli and Brickeen. which separate this lake from the Lower Lake. There is a cottage on Dinish, to which, THE EAGLES N LSI . titj' of the arbutus plants which cover it. The Upper Lake is ge- nerally regarded as tlie finest of the three, on account of the va- riety as well as beauty of its scenery. Passing through the lake we enter a river about 2^ miles in length, called the Long Kange, which connects the waters of the Upj'er and Middle Lakes. Passing the Eagle's Nest, a pre- cipice 700 ft. high, on ihe summit of wliich the eagle still builds its nest, there is a remarkable echo from this and surrounding rocks. A little way beyond we gain the "Meeting of the Waters;" if an arrangement is made before starting, tlie landlord of the hotel will send lunch to await the arri- val of the tourist. Our route now lies across the Lake to one of the three passages from it to the Lower Lake. Be- fore leaving it, the tourist will have time to admire its charming scenery, wiiich is thought by many to surjjass even that of the Upper Lake. The passage usually taken is that between Dinish and Bric- keen Islands. Tlie Lower Lake is 5 miles long by 3 miles in widtli. it contains more than thirty islands, the in I-; LAND. Rome :,.— CORK TO Kir.LARXEY. 37 largest being Habbit and Innis- t'iilion. 'Ihe nnnics of tlie other isliinds are dfrivcil from tlioir fancied rt'seniblancc to various objects, or from animals wliich resort to tliem ; as l^amb Island, Klephant Island, Utter Island, Stag Island, &c. The chief beauty of the lake is in its placid surface and the mountains which border it. There are numerous inlets and bays of surpassing beauty in every sin, is a grotto, with a seatrudfly cut in the rock. From this little grotto the view of the cascade is peculiarly beautiful and inti-rest- ing. It ai)pears a continued flight of tiiree unequally elevated foamy stages. The recess is encomj)assed by rocks, and overshadowea by an arch of foliage so thick as to in- terrupt the admission of light." .Midway between the e;ist and west shoies is Innisfallea Island, IHt OLD WtIR BRIDGE. part of it. Glena Hay, the part of the lake first entered, is one of its chief ornaments. On the shore is a picturesiiue cottage, known as " Lady Kenmare's." About 2 miles of coasting will enable the tourist to see O'Sri.i.i- van's CASCADK,a Waterfall consist- ing of three distinct falls. " The uppermost, passing over a ridge of rock, falls about twenty feet ])erpendicularly into a natural ba- sin beneath ; tlien making its way between two hanging rocks, the torrent hastens down a second precipice into a similar receptacle, from which second depository, concealed from the view, it rolls over into the lowest chamber of the fall. Beneath a projecting rock, overhanging the lowest ba- the most beautiful of all the islands of Killarney, to which an addi- tional charm lias been added by the poetry of I homas .Moore. 1 he ])oet was a visitor at Lord Ken- mare's when the lines referred to were written : "Sweet Innisnillen, fare thee well: May calm and sunshine long be thine: How fair thou art let others tell, While but to feel how fair he ininn. " Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell In memory's dream that sunny smile Which oVr thee on that evening fell. When lii-st 1 saw thy fairy isle." Near the landing-place are the ruins of an abbey, founded b}' St. Finhian in the sixth century. Ross Island, more properly a peninsula, on the eastern shore of 38 Route 3.— CORK TO KILLARNEY. IRELAND. the lake, is worthy a visit; and Ross Castle, an ivy-crowned and picturesque ruin, may be visited by paying a small fee to the people in tlie adjacent cottage. Persons liaving more time to spend will find it a pleasant excursion by land from Killarney to lioss Is- land and Castle. MucKRoss Abbey: Torc Cas- cade. The tourist may visit these ture are still well preserved. The church contains many tombs, some new, others ancient, among them that of O'Donoghue More. 1 n the kitchen is shown the corner where, about the year 1760, John Drake, a hermit, made liis abode for ele- ven years. His good humour and piety made him a favourite with the people of the vicinity, among whom many anecdotes of him. ROSS CASTLE. by rowing from Innisfallen to a point on the lake near Muckross; but it will be more convenient to return to the hotel and visit them by car. ' JMucKRoss AiiBEY is on the estate of H. A. Herbert, M.P. It is a beautiful ruin, and its situation does honour to the good taste of the monks by whom it was erected, and who in this case, as in almost every other, chose for their ab- beys the most charming and pic- turesque situations. The edifice contains both church and convent. Tlie kitchen, infirmary, cellars, and other portions of the struc- handed down by tradition, are still related. The mansion near by is modern, and the residence of Captain Herbert, before men- tioned. Torc Cascade is 60 ft. in height. It falls over a broken wall of rocks. On each side are steep rocks with a luxuriant growth of trees and ferns. The walks are well kept, and one of them leads to a point from which a fine view is to be had of the Middle and Lower Lakes — a higher point may be reached from which the view of the cascade and the surround- ing country is really magnificent. IRKLAND. Rome r..— CORK TO KILLARKEY. 39 Tliose wlio are sufiicicntly fond of maf^nifici'iit scenery to risk the necessary fatigue, may ascend IMaiisrerton, a mountain '2,75tJ ft. in height, the roail to wliich leaves The chief magnificence of tlie view- is in tlie sea coast, which extends from the Shannon to Cape Clear. A fine view is also had of Curragh- more l.oujcli. MUCKROSS ABBEY. the main road near the liotel at Muckross. It may be ascended with ponies. The view from the summit embraces on the east all the country between .Millstreet, .Mal- low, and Tip])erary ; north and east, Tralee and the Slievemish Mountains ; west. Tore ^Mountain, Purple .Mountain, and the Keeks; and south, tlie long ranges of high hills towards Keninare, with the bays of Bantry and Kenmare, and fartlier, the Atlantic Ocean. Another excursion of the same kind is that to the summit of Car- rantuohill, the distance to which from Killarney is 15 miles. \ guide should be taken who will select the best route for the ascent and descent. It is the highest point in Ireland, being .'5,414 ft., and it overshadows the limpid waters of the lake. It is flanked by many other mountains almost as high. Route 4. CORK TO DUBLIN. 164| miles ; first class, 30s. ; second, 22s. 6d. ; third, 13s. 8d. (From Cork to Mallow Junction, see Route 3.) ''f^UTTEVANT (27i L^^=Sf miles), once a town ot some importance, as its numerous ruins indi- cate. The abbey was founded in the reign of Edward I. by David de Barry, and there still remains a S(iuare tower, the clock tower of the church, upon a Gothic arch. Near the village on the east is But- tevant Castle, the residence of J. (.;. Anderson, Bart. Ch.\ri.eville, (3.5} miles). The direct railway from Cork to Limerick branches off here. K 1 1. m a i. lock, (4()J miles), a decayed town, with 40 Route 4.— CORK TO DUBLIN. IRELAND. the ruins of a Dominican con- vent, founded in 1291, and dis- mantled by Cromwell. The older houses of the town are ornamented with battlements. It was once the residence of the great families of Limerick, and was celebrated for its beauty. Limerick Junc- tion (37f miles), where the main line from Cork to Dublin is inter- sected by the railway from Water- ford to Limerick. Goold Cross (69^ miles.) Eight miles distant from this station is Cashel, the ancient residence of the kings of Munster. Holy Cross Audey (75| miles), founded by Donald O'J^rien, King of Limerick, in 1182 ; so called from the posses- sion of a piece of the pretended true cross. Tutmi.p^s (78 miles), an important market town for grain. (Pop. 5,500.) It is the seat of the lioman Catholic arch- diocese of Cashel. St Patrick's College is one of the several edu- cational establishments here- Tfm- I'LEMORE (85| miles), a neat vil- lage, said to owe its origin to the Templars. There are large infaii- ti-y barracks in tlie town. JMary- liORoiiGii (114 miles), a market town of no importance. On its lieath, in the sixth century, was fought a memorable battle between the peo|)le of Leinster and Mun- ster. Portart.ington(123j miles), a town given by Charles IL to Lord Arlington, who sold it after- wards to Sir P. Coote, in whose hands it was afterwards confis- cated. Its first inhabitants were Protestants driven from France and Germany by religious perse- cutions. It possesses a beautiful Protestant church and a Eoman Catholic chapel. Kii.dare (I34f miles), a town visible from the station. The ruins of its cathe- dral, consisting of the chapel, called St. Bridget's, bespeak the former splendour of the place. At Newbridge, (139{ miles), the rail- way crosses the Liffey. After passing five small stations without meeting any objects of interest to the tourist, we reach Dublin (163f miles). Kings- bridge Terminus. {Hotels: Shel- BURNE,* Gresham, Bition, Morri- soi's, Macken's, Imperiul, Rey- nolds^ s.) The capital and metropolis of Ireland, with a ])opulation esti- mated officially in 1868 at 362,000, IS on the shore of Dublin Bay, and is divided by the River Liffey into two equal parts. It may well be called a beautiful city, great improvements having been made within a few years. No city has a finer neighbourhood, the scenery in the immediate vici- nity of the town being exceedingly fine. All that is of especial in- terest in the city, including the Phoenix-park, may be seen in one day, with the aid of a hackney coach or car. The fare from any one point to another witliin the borough is, for a car with one horse, carrying two jiersons, 6d. The drivers are generally intelligent and civil. The chief objects of in- terest may be visited in the follow- ing order: — Commencing at Sack ville-street, where, or near which, are situ- ated the principal hotels and shojjs, we remark the General Post Office, a building of con- siderable beauty, with a portico supported by six Ionic columns. Nelson's IN] onument, a column of granite, 121 feet in height — fine view from the platform ; fee for admission, 6d. Carlisle Bridge, a fine structure, from which a beau- tiful view is obtainable. In front extends Sackville-street, with its fine rows of buildings, the Nelson Monument, and the Rotunda; on the other side the view extends up Westmoreland andD'Olier-streets. Du: Appletons European Guide Book .1 N. Iirp. Refinier. Paris. inELAND. Route t.— CORK TO DUDLIX. 41 In the latter nre Trinity College and tli(> Hank of In-laiid. I ]) the river, on tlierif^lit, are the I'Oiir Courts, and, in the distance, the Wellington Obelisk, in riioc- nix-park. Down the river are seen the Custom House and the shippinij. In Collei;e-green is tlie Kank of Ireland, the ancient Par- liament House, in which sat the Irish Parliament before the Cnion in 18011, and in front of the Bank are the buildings of Trinity Col- lege. 'The principal etlitice is of Portland stone, and the fa(;ade is .'iOO ft. in length. The museum, dining-hall, and library are all ■worthy a visit. 'The latter con- tains above 200,000 volumes. Berkeley, Swift, Goldsmith, Burke, O'Connell, and Moore were stu- dents of Trinity. William llowitt, in his admi- rable " Monies and Haunts of the British Poets,"' thus S|)eaks of Cioldsmith's college life — "Trinity College, Dublin, is a noble struc- ture ; and with its S|)acious courts and extensive gardens, more fit- tingly deserving the name of parks, one would think a place where the years of studentship might — espe- cially in the heart of such a city — he very agreeably spent. But (loldsmith entered there under circumstances that were irksome to him, and, to add to the matter, he met with a brute in his tutor, who sometimes [)rocee(led to actual corporal cast igation. With Oliver's natural tendency to ])oetry, rather than to dry mathematical studies, like many other poets, including Scott and Byron, he cut no great figure at college, and like the lat- ter detested it. Amongst his con- temporaries at the college was Kdmund Burke, but tliey appear to have known little ofeach other." It is farther stated tiiat " being on one occasion subjected to personal chastisement by his tutor, in pre- sence of a party of comrades, he quitted college, selling his books, and Setting off to (Jork to embark to some foreign country. But, his money tailing, he was compelled to sell his chjthes, and linally reached his brother's house in a state of utter destitution. He was brought back to college by his brother, but, his father soon after dying, he was reducetl to the deepest distress, and was conijielled to paw II his books, and he also wrote sirei't ballads which lie sold at live stiilliiigs a copy at a shop known as the Reindeer in .Moiiiitrath- street. He eventually obtained his degree of B.A. and (juitted tlie University." In Dame-street is the City Hall, or Exchange, the interior of wiiich is elegantly decorated. The hall contains a statue of Grattan, and in front is llogan's statue of O'Connell. 'Turning into Castle-street, we soon reach Dim. IN Casti.i:, the viceregal re- sidence. Architecturally, there is liitl(! here worthy admiration. We enter by the principal gateway the ujiper quadrangle, containing- the viceroy's apartments and offices of the Secretary and other func- tionaries. 'The apartments of the Lord Lieutenant, or \'iceroy, consist of the presencechainber ; St. Patrick's Hall, or ball-room, beautifully decorated with allegorical and his- torical paintings, one in the centre of George ill., supported by Justice and Liberty ; the others re- presenting St. Patrick preaching to the ancient inhabitants of Ireland ; and the submission of the Celtic chiefs to Henry II.; and the Coun- cil Chamber, with portraits of all the viceroys, beginning with Mar- tinis Cornwallis in 1801). 'Thecha- jiel, a beautiful sjxiciinen of (iothic arcliiiecture, is worthy a visit, and is ornamented with elaborate oak 43 Route i.— CORK TO DUBLIN. IRELAND. carvings. The gallery is surround- ed by the arms of tlie various viceroys from 1173 to 1814. The altar window represents the Pas- sion, and above are figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. In Christ Church Place, is Christ Church, sometimes called also heda in 1467. There are other monuments worthy attention. Passing through Nicholas-street to Patrick-street, we come to St. Patrick's Culhedral, the finest of the churches of Dublin. It was commenced in 1190, and occu- pies the site of a place of worship DUBLIN CASTLE. the Church of the Holy Trinity, the oldest of the cathedral churches of Dublin, some por- tions of it dating from the twelfth century. ' The liturgy in the English language was first read in Ireland in this church. Among the tombs in the church is one which is said to be that of Earl Strongbow, representing the great warrior in a coat of mail, recum- bent, with Eva his wife by his side. It is claimed by some authorities that this tomb is that of Earl Des- mond, who was beheaded at Drog- erected by St, Patrick. It is built in the form of a cross, with nave, transepts, choir, and Lady chapel. It contains a few monuments of interest. Dean Swift is buried here, beneath a marble slab ; and near bj^ is the slab which covers the remains of Mrs. Johnston, or " Stella." The cathedral having become greatly dilapidated in late years, a well-known and public- spirited brewer of Dublin, Mr. Guinness, commenced, about ten years ago, its complete restoration IRbLAND. RoHte4.—COliK TO DUBLIX. 43 at his own cost. The amount ex- pentlt'il u])on tin' work was up- wards (if £ I. ")(),<)( to. _ In the n-ar of the Cathedral, and not far off, is Auiifjier-strect, in which, at No. 1'2, Thomas Moore was horn on the i^Slh of May, 1780. His father kept a shop in Aungier- street and was a respectable sjrocer and spirit dealer. Tlie shoj) con- tinues exactly as it was to the present day, is employed for the same trade, and over if is the little drawing-room in which Mr. Moore himself tells us that he us(>d to compose his songs, and with his sister and some young friends acted a masciue of his own composing. Moore was not ashamed of his humble birth-place. " He sure," he said to me, " when you go to Dublin to visit the old shop in Aungier-street." — w. ii. ^>ear by is St. Stephen's-green, one of the finest S(|uares jn the city . On the west side is the lloyal Col- lege of Surgeons, the Museum of which, readily accessible, contains some objects of interest. In the centre of the Green is \'an Norts statue of Cieorge II. On the east side is the I rish I nd ustrial M useum , containing a collection of Irish building-stones, and of various ar- ticles used in manufacturing pot- tery, colours, textile fabrics, 6;c. Leaving the Green, and turning into Earlsfort- terrace, we soon reach the Exhibition Palace, in which, in 1865, the International Exhibition was held. The build- ings and grounds remain as a permanent institution of Dublin. They consist of an exhibition liall, concert rooms, winter garden and promenade, and ornamental pleasure grounds: open daily, ad- mission, is. Keturning along the east side of St. Stephen's-green, weenter at the cornerof the (jreen, Merrion-row, pjissing along which to the right we enter Merrion- street, at i\o. Ul in which the Duke of Wellington was horn in 1769. Closeby,at .\o.;iO, Merrioii- si|uare, Daniel 0'( 'onnell formerly resided. On the N. side of l.ein- ster Lawn is the National Ciallerv ; and opposite is the Museum of the Koval Dublin Society. A little STRONGBOW S MONUMENT. farther on is Westland-row, in which is St. Andrew's Chapel, a Doric edifice, finished in 1834. In the interior, over the taber- nacle, is a group by Hogan, re- presenting the Transfieruration. The station of the railway to Kingstown is in this row. Turn- ing to the right along Great Bruns- wick-street, and following Cla- rence-street, we reach the river Liffey at Sir John Rogerson"s 44 Route 5.— CORK TO LIMERICK. IRELAND. Quay, the view from which is fine. Those who desire may cross here by ferry-boat, and visit the Docks and also tlie Custom House, which IS in view on the opposite side. Having made tliis promenade, which includes most of the ob- jects of interest in the city, the tourist, starting; again from Sack- ville-street, for Pha-nix-park, will pass on liis way the i'nw objects which remain unvisited. Turning out of Sackville street, and follow- ing- the river, we pass Welling- ton, Ksspx,and Richmond bridges, and, on King's Inn Quay, reach the Folk Courts, an imposing pile, in which tlie courts of justice are held. The river facade is 4.50 feet ill length. The Park contains 1,750 acres, of which 1,300 are open to the public. Not far from the entrance is the Wellington Testimonial, erected in 1817 by the citizens of Dublin. It is a quadrangular obe- lisk of granite. On each side of the pedestal are sunken panels with represent;! tions in metal, in relief, one representing Welling- ton crowned with laurel, the others representing scenes in the military life of the great comman- der. 'I'he obelisk is 205 feet high, and cost £'20,000. 'I he Zoological ( jartlen in the north-east part of the park contains a small collection only. Ihe residence of the Lord- Lif-utenant, called "The Lodge," is in the park ; and on the south side is a military school, at which 400 boys, sons of soldiers, are educated.' Route 5. CORK TO LIMERICK.* 63 miles ; first class, lis. ; second, 8s. 2d. ; third, 4s. 9d. fci cirn^HE route is the same as thatto Killarney (Route 3) as far as JVIallow Junction. At Charle- vii.LE ( Route 4) the tourist quits the Cork and Dublin line, taking the Cork and Limerick Direct Railway, and proceeding direct to Limerick by liruree (which pos- sesses the ruins of a strong for- tress enclosed by a rampart wall), Croom and Patrick's Well. There is little of interest on the route until we reach Limerick {Hotel: Cruise's). Population in 1861, 44,476. It is situated on the River Shannon, and comprises the old and new town. The older portion is divided into the Irish Town and the Eng- lish Town, and the new town is called Newton Pery. The latter has been built chiefly within the present century, and possesses many tine buildings, streets, and siiuares. The streets of the old town are for the most part narrow, and the houses have a decayed and dilapidated appearance, and pre- sent a striking contrast with those of Newton Pery. Limerick is associated with many events of historic interest. It was taken by the Danes in the 9tli century. At the end of the 10th century it was conquered by Brian Boroimhe, and became tri- butary to the King of IMunster. In 1210 King John visited Lime- * Passengers proceeding from Dub- lin to Limerick leave the main line at Litnerirk Junction ("see Route 4). IRF.LAND. RoHlr n.—COltK TO LIMIIUCK. 4o rick, and caused Tiiotnniid Mridjife to be built. Kdwaid Hnut; be- siei^ed it in 1;)14, and burned tlie suburbs. At tbe end of that war tlie city was strongly fortifiinl. 'I'lie most interestiii'; objects at Limerick are the cathedral and the caitle. both in the Knglisli Town, ruined state, witli its seven towtsrs and massive walls, is a noble structure, and one of the best e.xamjdes remaining of a Norman stron^jhold. Its aiii)earance is much injured by the modern bar- racks which have been constructed within the walls. VI:; CASTLE AT LIMtRlCK. and near tof^ether. The cathedral ■was commenced as far back as the last of the I'Jtii century, by Do- nald O'Brien, Kinsi of Limerick; but little of the original structure remains. It is now in process of restoration. One of the chapels contains the tombs of the Earls of Limerick, and in the chancel is an elaborate monument of many- coloured marbles of the P2arl of Thomond. Tiie church possesses a fine chime of hells. '1 he view from the tower is very fine. '1 he cuslle was built in the reign of King John, and even in its At one end of Thomond Bridge is the famous " Treaty Intone," on which was signed, on the 3rd of November, 1691, the treaty be- tween the commander of the Irish force, which occupied the town, and Cieneral Ginkell, or de Gin- kel, the English commander, by which it was provided that the Roman Catholics should enjoy the same religious ])rivilege.s tiiey had enjoyed in the reign of Charles 11., and that William and Mary would endeavour to secure them immu- nity from disturbance on account of their religion. This article was 46 Route i.— CORK TO LIMERICK. IRELAND. never carried into effect ; Lime- rick is known therefore as " the city of the violated treaty." The city depends largely upon tlie manufacture of flax. It is cele- brated for the production of fish- hooks of excellent quality, and for the manufacture of leather gloves, the material of which is so thin that a pair may easily be placed in the shell of a walnut. It has a considerable trade in butter and other provisions. Vessels of 600 tons can lie at the quays. The commerce of the city is increasing. Near the village is Malahide Court, the princely residence of Lord Tal- bot de Malahide, a square building flanked by round towers. The roof of the grand hall is of richly- carved oak, and one of the cham- bers, called the " oak chamber," has a large quantity of elaborate and curious oak carving. The collection of pictures is interesting and valuable, among them being a small altar piece by Albert Durer, and several portraits by Van Dyke. Skerries (17^ miles), the anqient name of which was Halm Patrick. MALAHIDE COURT. Route 6. DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 1 12 miles ; first class, 20s. ; second, 15s. ; titird, 9s. 4d. iEAVING the Amiens- street station, we pass, 9 miles, Mai.ahide {Ho- tel : HoyaL), a town much resorted to for sea-bathino-. According to tradition it was here that St. Patrick souglit refuge when persecuted by the Druids. Balbric;gan (21| miles), noted for the manufacture of stockings, whence we reach Dkogheda (32 miles, pronounced Droyda). ( Ho- tel: Impel ial.) Population, 18,763. The town is situated on the River Boyne. It was once surrounded by a wall, of which considerable fi'ag- IRELAND. Routed.— DUBLIN TO BELFAST. 47 ments remain. Cromwell took the place by iissault, leadmy; it in per- son, in 16W. CMurendoii, S|)eiikin^ of tile iissiiult, sayM, " Kxcept some few who during the time ot' the as- sault escaped at the other end of the town, there was not an otHcer, soldier, or religious person be- longing to that garrison left alive." About one mile from the town, on Arthur's.) I'opulation, 10,4'28, si- tuated on the magnifici'iit l)ay of the Siiine name, piissessns litth; ot interest. Mdward Hrnce wa.s liere crowned King of Iri'iand, and, after residing here for two years, was killed in a battle with the Kiiglisli, on Foighard (or Faug- hart) Hill, near by, in 1318. 1 he town has considerable trade in aL^uJAMA a. THE BOVNK. the bank of the river, the famous battle of the 15oyne was fought on the 1st day of July, 1690, between the forces of the I'rince of Orange and James 11., his father-in-law. An obelisk marks the spot where the battle began. Droglieda has a considerable trade in linen, and large quantities of provisions are annually exported. Its commerce has increased considerably for a few years past, and it promises to become a place of considerable im- portance. DuNPALK (51J miles.) {Hotel : grain, and some important manu- factures. Beyond this there is nothing remarkable upon our route until we reach Lisuvrn (10.5 miles.) {Hotel: Hertford Aiiiuy.) population, 8,000, a prosperous town, having a large trade in linens, cliietly damasks. The church con- tains monuments to Jeremy Tay- lor and to I.ieutenant Dobbs, who was killed in an engagement with Paul Jones, the pirate, near the Irish coast. Belfast (112 miles.) {Hotels: Impeuial,* Royal, Queen's, Albion.) 48 Route 6.— DUBLIN TO BELFAST. lUELAND. Population in 1861, 120,544. Is the metropolis of the North of Ireland, and next to Dul)lin the most important city in Ireland. It is situated on the River Lagan, a short distance above its junction with Belfast Lougii. It is a mo- dern city, its oriiiin scarcely dating- beyond the 17th century. Its growth is remarlvable. In IQ'il it liad but .37,000 inhabitants ; in 18,'jl, 100,000; in 1861, l'iO,000 ; and in 1870 it probably has more than 140,000. I'he growth of its trade and manufactures is com- mensurate with its increase in population. Its tall chimneys, im- mense factories and spinning-mills remind the traveller of the great manufacturing towns of England, though Belfast is almost wholly free "from the smoke which dis- figures Manchester and other purely manufacturing towns, 'i'he streets are wide and regularly laid out, well kept, and well lighted, and the public edifices of the city are remarlaible not only for their number buttheir elegauce. Among these -we note, as worthy of parti- cular notice, the new City Hall, theCommercial Buildings, with an Ionic facade; the Custom House; the Ulster Bank ; and the Linen Hall. Of the churches, the only two which will attract attention are the parish churcli (St. Ann's) and Christ Church, the former with a lofty tower and cupola; the latter with an octagonal spire. Queen's College is a building in the I'udor style, with a front of 600 feet. It was opened in 1849. 1 he Museum on the north side of College-square contains a valuable collection of Irish antiquities, ornithological specimens, and a small geological collection. 'J'he Botanic Garden, near Queen's College, was esta- blished m 1830. It has a beautiful conservatory constructed of iron. Admission, 6d. Belfast is cele- brated for its schools and benevo- lent institutions. Tourists interested in manu- facturing operations will find a visit to the fiax mill of the Messrs. Mulholland, the largest in the city, especially interesting. This firm, one of the first to commence the manufiicture of linen yarn in Bel- fast, employs nearly 25,000 persons. Tlie harbour is accessible to ves- sels drawing 16 ft., and in spring- tides to those drawing 20 ft. The recent improvements are very ex- tensive, and cost over £300,000. The quays extend on each side of the river — on the western side 5,000 ft., on the eastern 3,500 ft. There are two docks, the Prince's and Clarendon, where foreign ves- sels have every facility. 'Ihe offices of the Harbour Commis- sioners is a fine Italian building of cut stone, the principal front of which faces Clarendon Dock. If the tourist desires a bird's- eye view of Belfast and its en- virons, he would do well to make a visit to Cave Hill,2i miles from the town, so called from three caves in its face. It rises 1,140 ft. above the level of the sea. The view over the city, Belfast Lough, and the County Down is very fine. In clear weather the coast of Scotland is included in the view. Route 7. BELFAST TO PORT RUSH AND THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY. 68 miles ; fiist class, 12*. ; second, 8s, 6d. ; third, 5s. bd. -^ ^^ HE excursion from Bel- £t fast to the Giant's Cause- way and back, via Port Rush, may he accom- plished in one day by taking the iRfLAND. Tioute 7.— BELFAST TO GIAXTS CAUSEWAY 19 early morning train to I'ort Rusli, where cars may be taken for tlm Causeway direct, takiiij; Dunliicc Castle in the route, and returiiiiij^ to Port llusli in time tor tiie evrn- injf train to Belfast. Return tickets, good for one day, an; issued at a fare and a half. If the tourist has two days at his dis- posal, he may, by jiassing the first niglit either at Port Rush or at the Causeway, go on the second day to Ballycastle, wliere a public car may be taken to I^arne on the Belfast and Xortheru Counties Railway, by whicii he will reacii Belfast early in the ovenini;-. Jle will, if he chooses the longer ex- cursion, liave passed over about 145 miles of tlic most interesting scenery in Ireland. The railway, on leaving Belfast, skirts for 7 miles the shore of Bel- fast Lough, Carrickfergus Junc- tion (6J miles), Antkiji ('ilj miles"), [Hotel: Massureeue Arms.) Population, 2,800. A pretty town, situated on the Six Alile Water, near its junction with Loch Xeagli. ^'ear the town is Antrim Castl(>, the grounds of which are hand- somely laid out, and through which visitors may walk to the shore of Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the United Kingdom. Ballymena (33 miles), a town with a very considerable linen trade. Coi.f.raine ((UJ miles). {Hotel: Bridge End.) Pojiula- tion, 6,000. An old town, re- nowned for the excellence of its linen fabrics, called "Coleraines," and its salmon fisheries. Pour Rush, 68 miles, {Hotel: Atilrim Arms). A small seaport, considered as the port of Coleraine, is situated on a peninsula of basalt, opposite the picturesque rocks called the " Skerries." It is much fre- quented for sea-bathing. Cars are taken here for tlie Causeway, distant 7 miles. On the route be- tween Port Rush and Dunluce are the Will IK Rocks. In a distance of 2 miles there are 27 caverns or gullies worn out by the action of the waves on the limestone rock. Tiie most interesting iscalled the " Priest's Hole." biNi.ucK Castm-; (:i miles), one of the finest ruins to be seen anywhere. " It stands about 100 ft. above the sea on a perpendicular and insulated rock, the entire surface of which is so coin]ileteIy occupied by the edifice that the external walls are in continuation with the perpen- dicular sides of the rock." The rock is united to the mainland by a wall only 18 inches in width The origin of this castle is un- known ; it is attributed to De Courcey, Pkrl of Ulster. Blsii- Mii.i.s (2 miles), {Hotel : Imperial) so called from the river Bush, on which it is situated. Thk Giant's Causkwav (2 miles); {Causeivau Hoti'l). At the hotel may be had a tariff' of prices for guides, boats, &c. The landlord at tlie Aiilrim Anns at Port Rush will recom- mend a good guide, and it would be well to follow his advice There is no lack of intelligent guides. The best course to pur- sue in seeing the wonders of this remarkable region is, if the day be not stormy, to visit the caves and then to land upon and see the Causeway. The first of these caves is Poutcoox, into which the boat may be rowed for a consider- able distance. Its length is 350 ft., its height, 45 ft. It may be entered also by land, but tlie effect is not so good. Dunkerry cave can only be entered by water. Its entrance resembles a Gothic arch. It is 660 ft. long, and its height is 60 ft. above high-water mark. After leaving the caves the visitor is rowed directly to and landed upon the (^auseway. It is a vast collection of ba- D 50 Route 7. —BELFAST TO GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, iiieland. The grand cause- a most regular saltic pillars, way consists of arrangement of about 40,000 columns of a black kind of rock, very hard ; almost all of them of a pentagonal figure, but so closely and compactly situated at their sides, though perfectly distinct from top to bottom, that scarcely visible at low water ; how far be- yond is uncertain ; from its de- clining appearance, however, at low water, it is probable it does not extend under water to any- thing like the distance seen above» The breadth of the principal causeway, which runs on in one continued range of columns, is POKTCOOX CAVE. anything can be inti-oduced be- tween them. The columns are of unequal height and breadth, some of the highest being about 20 ft. ; they do not exceed this height — at least, none in the principal arrangement. How deep they are fixed in the earth has never been discovered. This grand arrange- ment extends nearly 200 yards, from 20 to 30 ft. ; at one or two places it may be 40 ft. for a few yards. In this account are ex- cluded the broken and scattered pieces, as they do not appear ever to have been contiguous to the principal arrangement, though they have been frequently taken into the width. The figure of the columns is almost unexcep- IRELAND. Route 7.— BELFAST TO GIANTS CAUSEWAY. .'>1 tionably pentagonal ; some fen- there are of tlireo, four, aiul six sides, but the gfcnorality are fivc- sided. What is peculiarly curious to the non-scientilic obsi'rver, is that there are not two columns in ten thousand to be found that have their sides equal among themselves, or whose figures are alike. They are not of one solid stone in an upright position, but composed of several short lengths curiously joined, not with flat jointed in all respects like those of the grand causeway. Tlie causeway is divided into three j)arts, or platforms — the Little, .Middle, and Grand Cause- ways. The objects best worthy the attention of the visitor are the following : — The Giant's Gateway, a gap bounded on each side by columns. The Giant's Organ, consisting of a number of large pillars de- clining on either side to shorter X.A TIIL L.1AM i CALSHVAV. surfaces, but articulated into each other like ball and socket. The length of these particular stones from joint to joint is various ; generally, they are from 12 to 24 inches long, and near the bottom they are longer than to- ward the top. Their size and diameter differ also ; in general they are from 15 to 20 inches in diameter. The cliffs, at a great distance from the causeway, espe- cially in the bay to the eastward, exhibit at many places the same kind of columns, figured and and shorter ones, like the strings of a harp. The Giant's Ampiii- TiiEATRE, " the most beautiful work of the kind, that in Rome not excepted." The Giant's CiiiMNEv Tops, three isolated pillars standing upon a promon- tory, the tallest about -15 ft. in height. The Priest and bis Flock, The Nursing child, The King and his Nobles, will all be pointed out by the guides. Pleaskin Head, " the finest of all promontories," rises to a height of 370 ft. Be- yond are the Giant's Pulpit, a pre- b2 Boute 7. —BELFAST TO GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. Ireland. cipitous rock, an irregular pillar called the Giant's Granny, and near it four isolated columns called the Four Sisters. The tourist who chooses the ccast route for liis return to Bf.l- FAST, will find much to interest him on the way. Between the Causeway and Ballycastle is one of the most interestins; na- ous weather, and the eternal screaming of the sea-fowl that hover overhead, or sweep rapidly around the island, present a picture of remoteness from the busy haunts of man, of a melancholy meaning-. Here, too, are not wanting horrors to enhance the eifect of sublimity, for between the island and the shore is a dark, deep gulf, where •I lii: ti:niN l\ ici : tural curiosities in this exten- sive basaltic region, the little pyramidal islet of " Carrick-a- Rede," " the rock in the road." The epithet is derived from the interruption which this mass of basalt occasions to the salmon ranging along the coast in quest of their original haunt. Elevated upwards of 300 ft, the level also of the nearest mainland, sterility keeps uncontrolled possession of the surface ; while the majestic swell of tlie ocean, the almost un- interrupted prevalence of boister- the surges beat and the billows roar, and the spray is in eternal suspense. Across this gulf of frightful depth the proprietor of the valuable salmon-fishery has thrown a rope suspension-bridge, for the accommodation of his fishermen during the season. Like the geological structure of the rock itself, there was a time when the bridge excited curiosity, and when its transit was performed, and remembered as a performance e%'incing the most manly cou- rage ; but the repute of both has iRELANo. Route?.— BELFAST TO GIASTS CAi'SElVAY. 5.; faded, science has dissipated that astonishment which the scrupu- lous and accunito formation of columnar basalt once excited, and suspension-bridges have become universally adopted. The swinging bridge from the Antrim coast to the rocky islet, consists of two parallel ropes se- cured to rin^s let into the rock on each side ot the yawning chasm, with crossing cords, on which, as on the rounds of a ladder, planks are loosely laid. There is un- doubtedly little attention herej)aid to security ; the whole structure swings with every breeze, the planks are not even tied to the cross cords, and a rail or hand- guide would rather increase the danger to a passenger, from the peril of reaction, 'i'hose who are employed in the conduct of the fishery pass rapidly and safely over, much aided in tiio accom- plishment by the stability which a basket-load of salmon on the back contributes. When the season closes, the clerk retires from his island hut, having previously re- moved his temporary bridge, and from this period the rock is inac- cessible, save — at even a greater risk than before — an approach to its dangerous coast by water. Bal- LYCASTLE (Hotel: Antrim Anns), a dull town of about 2000 inhabi- tants. Near it are the ruins of Bonamargij Abbei), erected in the fourteenth century. NearCvsHEN- DUN, a pretty village with neat residences, the road crosses the Glendum river by a lofty and hand- some viaduct supported by tliree arches. Glenarm, a village of about 1000 inhabitants. The castle is the seat of the Earls of Antrim. It is opposite the town, and is sur- rounded by a fine park. A some- what enthusiastic writer says of the castle and its vicinity, " Near the village and castle all traces of wilderness vanish entirely, and a charming park and pretty flower garden confer additional beauties on the scene. The castle itself is built in a fine old Gothic style, and furnished with modern taste and elegance. Four hundred deer graze around it, and six hundred old ancestral trees overshadow its grounds with their spreading boughs; and all this smiling anil peaceful beauty sheltered between the wild rocks which form the little glen, with a view opening on old Ocean rolling its stormy white- crested waves beyond, forms per- haps the most wonderful site in all the world for a stately baronial mansion." Twelve miles from Glenarm, by an excellent road, is Larne (Hotel: King's Arms), a beautifully situated town, now the terminus of the railway from Car- rickfergus and Belfast. There are four trains daily from Larne to Belfast. 1 1^ miles from Larne we reach CARRicKFEnois (Hotel : Victoria), a town of about 4000 inhabitants, with very few attractions. 'I'he chief objects of interest are the castle and the church; the former, built by the De Courcej-s, is still habitable. The church contains some fine monuments of the Chi- chesters. KingWilliam III. landed here in 1689, before the battle of the Boyne. liOUTE 8. DUBLIN TO KILKENNY. 81 miles; first class, 15s.; second, lis. 'id. ; third, 6s. 8d. ME route from Dublin is the same as that to Cork as far as Kildare (see Route 4). At Kildare (;30 miles from Dublin) we take t)4, Routes.— DUBLIN TO KILKENNY. IRELAND. the Irish South-Eastern Railway- to Kilkenny, passing Carlow (55 miles), (Hotel: Club House). It is situated upon the river Barrow. Its castle, erected in the twelfth century by Hugh De Lacy, is ce- lebrated in the military annals of Ireland. It contains a handsome Catholic church and college, and a fine English church. Nothing remains of the castle except two towers about sixty feet in height and the ruins of the wall which connected them. Kilkenny (81 miles), (Hotels: Club House, Impe- rial). Pop. 13,235. Situated on the river Nore. It was once a place of considerable importance, as its castle, the ruins of its massive walls and churches testify. It for- merly bad a considerable trade in woollens, but this has fallen off, and the chief business of the town is its retail trade and the sale of the agricultural products of the surrounding district. The most conspicuous object is the baronial castle of the Marquis of Ormond, which is full of historical associa- tions. It was originally built by Strongbow, but has been repeat- edly enlarged, and has been greatly improved by the present marquis. The grounds are not extensive, but are well laid out. The cathedral of St. Canice, built in 1202, is not excelled by any of the ancient ec- clesiastical buildings of Ireland, except St. Patrick's and Christ Church in Dublin. The church of St. John, which belonged to an ancient abbey, has been called the " Lantern of Ireland," on account ofthegreat number of its windows. Near the city is a marble quarry of considerable importance. Thirty- one miles from Kilkenny is Wa- TERFORD, a sea-port, with a popu- lation of 23,0U0, but with nothing of interest to the tourist. Route 9. DUBLIN TO GALWAY. 126 miles; first class, 22s. ; second, 17s. 6d.; third, Us. 8d. '■- II E first place of interest on the route is May- NOOTH (15 miles), chief- ly celebrated for its Ro- man Catholic College, which has given rise to political controver- sies which have made it famous. The college has been endowed by various Acts of Parliament since 1795. During the present reign it has been permanently endowed for the education of 500 students and 20 senior scholars, and 30,000/. Las been appropriated for the erection of buildings. All stu- dents admitted must be designed for the priesthood in Ireland. At one end of the single street of Maynooth is an entrance to Carton, the seat of the Duke of Leinster; at the other are the ruins of the once-powerful castle formerly belonging to his family, the Fitzgeralds. MuLLiNGAR (50 miles), where are held important fairs and mar- kets for horses, cattle, and farm pi-oduce, and containing barracks for 1000 soldiers. Ballinasloe (92 miles), chiefly remarkable for its fairs and markets. Galwav (126 miles). (Hotels: Railway, Black's.) Pop. 16,446. The city, situated upon the magnificent bay of the same name, is of considerable antiquity, and the older part consists of streets and lanes huddled together without regard to comfort or convenience. It partakes of the appearance of a Spanish town, the result of its early intercourse with Spain. ■IRELAND. RoiUe9.—DUBLll^ TO GMAVAY. 0.1 Many oftho houses bear traces of an arcliitectiire similar to tliat seen in S|)anish towns, and many writers trace the briglit colours worn by many ol' the women of Gal way to tiic same source. Lynch Castle, at the corner ot" Shop and Abbeygate Streets, is the best sjie- cimen extant of the Spanish-Irish edifices. The town has been much improved of late years by the erec- tion of modern buildings. Queen's College and the County Court- llouse are the principal public buildings. The Claddagh is a suburb of the city near the port, inhabited ex- clusively by fishermen and their families, to the number of nearly 5000. They have their own laws, and elect a mayor called *' King of Claddagh," who exercises supreme authority over his people. They do not intermarry with the otlier inhabitants of the town, whom they regard as inferior, and to whom they apply the name of " Transplanters." Dublin to London (,'530 miles) is perfonnetl in twelve iiours. Excel- lent meals are supplied on board the steamers, and there are a few state-rooms. Persons de- siring them, should telegraph from Dublin to the purser. As the steamer approaches the Welsh coast, the view of Holyhead and the adjacent line of coast is very fine. Tlie cars are brought to the landing of the steamers at Holyhead, and very little delay is occasioned by the change from steamer to train. (For a descrip- tion of the remainder of the route to London by Bangor and Chester, see Route 32.) (Passengers desiring to go di- rectly from Belfast to London, or any part of England, may leave Belfast on any week-day at 7^ p.m. for Fleetwood (120 miles), from wliicli place there is railway con- nection with all parts of England. Fare to Fleetwood, first-class, 12s. 6d., steerage, 5s. ; to London, first- class, 45s., second class, 35s., third class, 20s.) ROCTE 10. DUBLIN TO HOLYHEAD. (Route to London.) ' ASSENGERS for Eng- land leave Dublin from ^ K^f/-^^ t''^ Western Row Sta- '©^?^63* as Cihisgow, is the next in size. The chief / sea-shore. Little more than one-fourth of the area ot Scotland, or 5,()U(),0()0 acres, is cultivated reijularly or occasion- al ly,the remainder, say,14,000,000 acres, is adapted only to the pas- turage of sheep. Scotland manufactures cotton and linen very largely, and her manufactures of iron are very ex- tensive. More than two-thirds of the iron ships constructed in (ireat Britain, are from the great iron- works upon the Clyde. Route 12. GLASGOW AND THE CLYDE TO GREENOCK. 'LASGOW, population, with suburbs, 507,000, (Hotels ; INIaci.kan's,* Queen's, lioi^al, The George, liedjord), is the most populous city in Scotland; and, in population, wealth, and com- mercial importance, is the tliird in till' I'nitcd Kingdom. It occupies an advantageous situa- tion on the Clyde, a few miles from the place where it expands into an estuary. Its external ai)i)earance is elegant and inij)res sive; the streets are regular in arrangi'mcnt and are substantially built. The ])ublic buildings are handsome, and in most instances disposed in such a manner as to be seen to advantage. The older part of the city extends along the line of th(^ High-street, between the cathedral and the river; the more modern and elegant part ex- tends towards the north-west. 'I'he city possesses many advantages for connnerce ami manufactures. It is in the vicinity of extensive coal- fields, and has ready access by tlie Clyde and the canal to the Atlan- tic and German oceans. The har- bour called the Broomielaw is a basin of about fifty acres, with fine (]uays; tlie deptli of water is sufficient for the largest vessels. The cathnlrul is the most dis- tinguished of the public buildings. It is situated in the northern ])art of the city, near the upper extre- mity of the High-street. The bulk of the present building was con- structed at the close of the twelfth century, in place of another which was destroyed by fire. It consists ofalongnave and choir, a chapter- house projecting from the north- east angle, a tower and si>ire in the centre, and a crypt extending beneath the choir or eastern por- tion of the building. The building has been judiciously repairetl, and a great number of stained glass windows have been put in. They were mostly made at iNIunich, though a few are the work of British artists. They are described in a catalogue sold at the door for twojience. The high ground near the east end of the cathedral has been con- verted into an ornamental burying 68 Itoute 12.— GLASGOW TO GREENOCK, scoti.asd. ground, and is called the Necro- polis. The grounds, -ivhicli rise to a height of more than 200 feet, are laid out in walks and shrub- beries, and are connected with the opposite slope by means of a bridge, called "The liridge of Sighs." The grounds contain the monuments of many distinguished persons, the most conspicuous being that of John Knox. The Coi.LKGE buildings are situ- ated on the east side of High- street, and have a dignified and venerable appearance. At the back of the interior court is a modern Grecian building-, which contains the Hunterian Museum, a collec- tion of singular natural objects, coins, medals, rare manuscripts, paintings and relics of antiquity, formed by the celebrated Dr. W il- liam Hunter, and by him be- queathed to the university. Ad- mission 1*. The most attractive building in Glasgow is the Royal Exchange in Queen-street, a superb struc- ture, erected in 1829. The front consists of a magnificent portico, surmounted by a cupola, and tlie other sides are also of decorative architecture. The principal room is a large hall, supported by a double row of columns. In front of the Exchange is the equestrian statue in bronze of the Duke of Wellington, by Marochetti, erect- ed by subscription at a cost of £10,000. One of the largest squares in the city is George Square, which encloses several monuments, one to Sir Walter Scott, in the form of a Doric cohimn. 80 feet high, with a statue of Sir Walter on the top. In the south-west angle of the square is a bronze statue of .lames Watt, by Chantrey, and in the north-west angle, a bronze statue of Sir Robert Peel. 'J he square also contains bronze statues to Sir John Moore and Lord ('lyde, botli ofwliomwere born in Glasgow. Argyle and Buchanan-streets are the finest in tiie city, the former is nearly three miles long. Tlie resi- dence of the wealthy citizens are chiefly in Woodside - crescent, Claremont, Woodlands, Park, Buckingham, and Grosvenor-ter- races. A fine pnrk, called " West End ParA-,"has been laid out on the east bank of the Kelvin, from de- signs of Sir Joseph Paxton, and forms an attractive feature of that part of the city. A fine park of over 100 acres, called. " Quee7i's Park," has been laid out on the south side. Glasgow is chiefly supplied with water from Loch Katrine, 40 miles distant. The daily supply from this source is 23,000,000 gallons per day, which is more per head than is supplied to the population of any other city in the world. Steamers leave the Broomielaw many times a day for GnEENOCK (20 miles distant) and other points on the coast. 1 he route by the river gives the tourist an oppor- tunity of seeing many of the iron ship-building establishments. At Tovan. about 2 miles below the city, is the immense establishment of Robert Napier and Sons, and a short distance below is that of 'i'od and JMcGregor, and in the vicinity are several fine country seats. Near Renfrew ferry a view- may be had of the town of Ren- FiiEW. The barony gives the title of Baron to the Prince of W^ales. About half-way to Greenock is Bowling, at which ])oint the Grand Junction Canal enters the Clyde. Anobelisk has been erected here to the memory of Henry I5ell, who was the first to intro- duce navigation by steam-vessels on the Clyde. Soon after passing Bowling, the enomious rock of Dumbarton is seen rising out of SCOTLAND. Route 12.— GLASGOW TO GREENOCK. 59 the water at the junction of the Clyde and Leveu, to the height of 560 feet. The casth? is a very imposing object, and its situation is singularly picturesque. The fortress is entered by a gate at the bottom. It luis a battery and barracks for a few troops. Wal- lace was imprisoned here before he was taken to London, and his two-handed sword, 52- feet in length, is to be seen m the ar- moury. Two miles below is seen the old castle of Newark, soon after passing which I'ort Glasgow is readied. This was formerly in- tended to be the port of Glasgow, but since the deepening ot the Clyde to permit large vessels to reach the city, it has declined. The iron ship-building works of Reid and Son are here. Three miles below we reach the thriving town of Greenock. Population, 42,000. (Hotels: White Hart, Royal, Ton- tine.) It is one of the finest sea- ports in Scothmd, and has a con- siderable business in iron ship- building and sugar refining. It was the birth-place of James VV'att, tlie great improver of the steam- engine, to whose memory a statue by Chantrey has been erected by the inhabitants of Greenock. The range of hills behind the town affords magnificent views. Mary Campbell (Burns's "Highland INIary ") is buried in the burying- Mary") ground of the old church. EXCURSION rnOM GLASGOW TO THE FALLS OF THE CLYDE, HAMILTON I'AT.ACE, AND BOTHVVELL CASTLE. 'AKING the morning train at tlie Buchanan Street Station to La- nark (Hotels: Clydes- dale, Caledonian Arms), in the vici- nity of the Falls, one may viait thi'm, drive to Hamilton, and re- turn toGlasgowby Bothwell inone day. There are several trains a- day directly from Glasgow to Hamilton, time 30 minutes, and omnibuses four times a day from Glasgow to Bothwell, which put down passengers at the gateway of the castle. The grandest of the Falls is Cora Linn, where the river in three leaps falls 81 feet. An ex- cellent view is obtained from the little mirrored pavilion at the top of the cliffs, fhe old castle of Cora looks down on the fall. It is said to have been a stronghold of Wallace. Stonebyres is the largest fall, and is remarkably grand and picturesque. Bosning- TON Linn is 2i miles from Lanark. Here the Clyde falls 30 feet. In Bonnington House are preserved two relics of W' allace — a portrait and a chair in which he is said to have sat. Hamilton Palace is the princely seat of the Duke of Hamilton, sur- rounded by magnificent grounds, and contains many valuable works of art. Bothwell Castle is a picturesque ruin on the bank of the Clyde. It is Norman in architecture, and con- sists of a large quadrangle ilanked by two enormous towers. Some ])arts of the walls are li feet in thickness and 60 feet high. Ed- ward III. resided here for some time when invading Scotland. The battle of Bothwell Brig, in which tlie Covenanters suffered defeat, is described in Scott's "Old IMortality." William Wallace re- sided here during the time of his governorship. Visitors are ad- mitted at the principal gateway, on Tuesdays and Fridays o/i/i/, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. 60 Route 13.— GLASGOW TO CARLISLE. Scotland, EOUTE 13. GLASGOW TO CARLISLE (By Caledonian Railway.) 104 miles ; first class, 17s. 6d. ; se- cond, iSs.od.; third, 8s. S^d. EAVING Glasgow by the Buchanan - street Station, we pass Garx- KiRK (6 miles), cele- brated for its potteries, and reach Gartsherrie Junction (Smiles), where a line branches off to Edinburgh, Perth, Inverness, and Aberdeen ; soon afterwards we arrive at Motherwell (13 miles), where the Clydesdale branch from Glasgow by Cambuslang joins the main line. We see, a little beyond iNIotlierwell, Wishaw Castle, and a beauti- ful spot called Cambusnethnn, and proceeding through a remark- ably picturesque expanse of coun- try, reach Carluke (22 miles), just before reaching which, we see at a distance, Maudslie Castle and an ancient hermitage called the Chapel of St. Oswald, also JMilton, a beautiful building in the Tudor style, on a peninsula nearly sur- rounded by the river Clyde. Cleghorn (28 miles), near to which are the remains of an an- cient chapel and a Roman encamp- ment. Here a line branches oft' to Lanark (4 miles), Carstairs Junction (SOj miles), where the Edinburgh branch of the Caledo- nian Railway joins that from Glas- gow. Crossing the Clyde, we pass Thankerton (35J- miles), near which are the ruins of Covington Castle. This village was a favou- rite retreat of the Covenanters during their times of persecution. Near Symington (37J miles) we see the ruins of Fatlips Castle, and Tinto Hill, about 500 ft. high, called also the "Hill of Fire." Shortly before reaching Laming- ton we notice some Druidical re- mains, and the signs of a Roman encampment, and farther on the old tower of Lamington. Pro- ceeding^ on our route we see be- yond Elvanfoot (51 miles) the Lowther Hills, on the right, rising upwards of 3000 ft., and on the left the sources of the Tweed, the Annan, and the Clyde. We now pass Beattock, the nearest sta- tion to MofiFat, Netiiercleugh (75 miles), and Lockerbie (78 miles), near which is a house called Brick Hall, where in 1801 died a very aged man, the original of Sir \V alter Scott's Old Mortality. Shortly after passing Lockerbie we cross the Water of jMilk, the scenery in the neigh- bourhood of which presents many charming features ; at a distance may be seen the heights of Skid- daw, one of the principal moun- tains in the Lake district of England. The next station is EccLEFECHAN (84 miles), where we see a large tower or keep, called Hoddam House, in olden times a stronghold of con- siderable importance. Opposite Hoddam House, on a small hil- lock, stands the " Tower of Re- pentance," built by one of the ancestors of Lord Herries, and deriving its name from the circum- stance of its having been erected as a mark of penitence for some crime. There is an anecdote re- lated of Sir Richard Steele, the essayist, in connection with this tower. While riding past he saw a poor peasant boy who was en- gaged in reading the Bible ; and, asking him what he learnt from that book, the boy replied, " The way to Heaven." Steele asked him if he could point out the road, SCOTLAND. Route 13.— GLASGOW TO CARLISLE. 61 and the boy directed his attention to the " 'J'ower of Repentance." Leavinf^ Ecclefechan we pass Kiiiri.F. 13i miles), and I'restwick,near which are the ruins of Kingswell, a mo- nastery endowed by Robert Bruce, we reach Ayr (10 miles). (Hotels: King's Arms, Ai/r Arms, Commercial.) This ancient town, bearing so many associations with the me- mory of Burns, lies on a sandy ])lain close to the sea. On leaving the railway station, the tourist sees before him the memorable " Twa Brigs." The New Brig, greatly widened since Burns's time, is that by which we pass direct into the town. The Auld Brig is about 100 yards higher up, and is only used as a foot-path. The following descri])tion is given of it by the poet : — " .Vuld Brig appeared o' ancient Pict- ish race The very wrinkles Gothic in his face ; He seemed as he wi' Time had warstled lanfr. Yet, toui;hly doure, he baide an nnco bang." And he gives an account of his visit to it : "A simple bard, Uiikno'.vn and poor, simplicity's reward. At night, within the ancient burgh of Ayr, By whim inspired, or haply pressed wi' earn, He left his bed, and took his wayward route. And down by Simpson's wheeled the left about : The drowsy dungeon clock had num- bered two. And Wallace tower had sworn the fact was true ; The tide-swollen Firth, wi' snllen sounding roar. Through the still night dashed hoarse along the shore. E G6 Route 15.— GLASGOW TO AYR. SCOTLAND. All else was hushed as Nature's closed e'e; The silent moon shone high o'er tower and tree ; The chilly frost, beneath the silver beam. Crept, gently crusting, o'er the glitter- ing stream." The "Dung-eon clock" is re- moved, but "Simpson's" is still to be seen: it is a public-house at the end of the bridge furthest from the town. Wallace tower has been entirely rebuilt since the date of the poem which alludes to it. The fort, situated between the town and the sea, was built by Oliver Cromwell. Kirk Alloway, the poet's birth- place, is about 3 miles soutli of Ayr. The cottage stands on the right-hand side of the road, a quarter of a mile before reaching Alloway-Kirk and the Brig o' Doon. It contains only two rooms, and is thatched and white- washed like a cabin of the hum- blest order. Over the door is a portrait of Burns, beneath whicli is the following inscription : " Robert Burns, the Ayrshire Poet, was born under this roof, the 25 Jan. a.d. 1759. Died A.D. 1796, aged 371 years." The poet was born in wliat is now the kitchen, in a recess which is still shown to tourists. The Cottage stands on a plea- sant plain, and about a quarter of a mile beyond on the left is the Monument erected to the poet's memory— a dome surmounted with a lyre and significant wine-cup— and supported on Corinthian pil- lars. On the opposite side of tlie road is the old Kirk of Alloway ; beyond, far to the right, is heard the sea, while the airy range of the Carrick lulls stretches across, closing the landscape. At their feet a mass of trees masks the course of the Doon ; but before you reach any of these objects you pass on the left the large open field in which was held the Burns' festival on the 6th of August, 1844, the number of per- sons present at which was 80,000. Alloway Kirk is roofless and is " just such a plain simple ruin as one sees in a hundred places in Ireland. One of the first objects that arrests the attention is the bell in the little belfry, with a rope hung outside. There are plenty of open windows where Tam O'Slianter could take a full view of the unsonsie dancing party ; and ' the winnock bunker in the east,' a small window ' where sat auld Nick in shape of beast,' as tiddler, is conspicuous enough. The interior of the little kirk is divided by a wall. The western division is the burial- place of the Cathcarts. The other end, where the witch-dance met Tarn's astonished eyes, is full of briars and nettles." Among the tombs in the kirk -yard is that of the poet's father, just before you enter by the Btile, with this in- scription : " O ye whose cheek the tear of pity stains. Draw near with pious reverence, and attend! Here lie the loving husband's dear re- mains. The tender father, and the generous friend. The pitying heart that felt for human woe ; The dauntless heart that felt no human pride ; The friend of man, to vice alone a foe; ' For eviii his failings lean'd to virtue's side.' " The last line is copied from Goldsmith's " Deserted Village." There is no statue to Burns in the monument. The interior of the basement affords a circular chamber upwards of 18 ft, in diameter and 16 ft. high, lighted SCOTLAND. RouteiS.—GLASGOn- TO AYR. C7 by a cupola of staiiifd glass. This apartment contains a copy of Na- sniytli's picture of the poet, and on a table in tlie centre arc the Bible and Testament given by Burns to his 3Iary at their last j)arting near JMontgomerie Castle. " The two volumes are displayed at the be- ginning of each, where Burns has placed a masonic sign, and written Iiis name, now nearly obliterated, adding the two texts, Leviticus xix. 1',', Mfittliew V. oo, which are ' Ye shall not swear by my name falsely; I am the Lord;' and * Thou shalt not forswear thyself, but shalt j)erform unto the Lord thine oaths.' These precious volumes were known to bi; in the possession of the sister of Burns' ' Mary ' in America ; and a so- ciety of young men, ardent ad- mirers of Burns, resolved to regain them if possible. This, after con- siderable trouble and expense, they finally effected, and here they are, objects certainly of the deepest interest." — HowitU In a separate building in the same garden stands the celebrated group by Tliom, of Tam and Souter Johnny. The group was exhibited some years ago in London and the principal cities of the United Kingdom. A sliort distance from the monu- ment, and a little distance above the new bri.dge, is the Brig o' Doon, where Tarn O'Shanter's mare, pursued by the witches whose oj'gies Tam had so rashly interrupted in Alloway Kirk, " Brought off her master haill, But left behind her ain grey tail." The present road from Ayr to Alloway Kirk is not the one which i'am is represented to have followed after he h^ft the ale-liouse at Ayr. Since the poem was writ- ten the road has been straightened, and some of the localities are now at a little distance to the right of the present route. " Kirk Alloway was diMwiaf; nigh, Where ghaists and boalcts nightly iry— Hy this time he was cross the ford, Where in the siiaw the chapmau sinoored ; And past the hirks mid meikle stane Where drunken Charlie brak's neck- bane. .\nd through the whins, and by the cairn, Where hunters foand the murdered bairn ; And near the thorn aboon the well Where Mungo's mither hanged hcr- sel." Four miles from Alloway is Mount Oliphant, a farm where Burns resided with his father be- tween his sixth and twelfth years. From hence he removed to Loch- lea, near Ttirbolton, a few miles to the south-cast. Here ho remained to the age of twent^'-four, and it was during this interval that he composed several of his poems ; "John Barleycorn;" "Cornrigs are bonnie;" "Winter, a dirge;" " The Death of poor .Mailie ; " " Now Whistling Winds," &c. Close to Tarbolton lies 3Iont- gomerie Castle, where the poet used to visit " Highland INfarj'." Here, too, as he mentions in the poem that bears her name, he saw her for the last time ; she went to visit lii''r fViends in the Western lligidands, and died on her jour- ney back. AA'riting of this last parting the poet tells us " How s^-eetly bloom'd the gay green birk, How rich the hawthorn's blossom. As, underneath their fragrant shade, I clasp'd her to my bosom ! " The thorn tree, called " Highland ALary's Thorn," under which the meeting took place is living still. Four miles from Tarbolton is the farm of .Mossgiel — (Routel-t.) Throughout this route the stu- pendous rock called Ailsa Craig is seen on the right, towering out of the ocean, at a distance of 10 iliiles from the shore. 68 Route 16.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. Scotland. Route 16. GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH BY DIRECT RAILWAY. 48 miles; fare, frst class, 5s. 6d. ; second, 4s; third, 2s. 6d. ' I] E Glasgow terminus is close by George Square. Near the city a tunnel .^^ „. 1100 yards "in length leads to Cowlairs. Passing Bishop Briggs, Croy, and Castlecary, we lace's Stone," marks the spot oc- cupied by his forces. The scene of the battle is about midway be- tween the town and the River Car- ron. The battle is supposed to have raged near the A-illage of Mungal by Mungalbog, behind wliich the Scots were posted, and adjoining which, upon a piece of ground called " Graham's Muir," Sir John Graham, Wallace's brave companion in arms, was killed. Over his grave is a tombstone erected by one of his descendants, LINLrniCiOW PALACE. reacli Falkirk (23^ miles) (Hotel: Red Lion) — famous for its vestigf s of antiquity and the battles which have been fought in the neigh- bourhood. The Hill of Falkirk, behind the town, is remarkable for the extensive views it com- mands over the surrounding coun- try. This hill was the position to which William Wallace, with his division of the Scotch army, retired on the eve of the battle of Falkirk, fought between the English and Scots in 1298. A stone upon Wallace's Ridge, called "Wal- bearing the following inscription : " Mente manuque potens, et Vallos fl- dus Achates, Conditur hie Gramus, bello interfeetus ub Anglis. xxii Julii anno 1293. Here lies Sir John the Grarne, baith wight and wis Ane of the chiefs who lestnit Scotland thrice ; Ane better knight not to the world was lent, Nor was good Grame of truth and hardiment." The Carron Iron Works, among the most extensive in Europe, a DO a O EI App]jf Ion's European GtiicLe Book. BURGH. C A ^:hTfUij0. St. "^ rnm^ Malbv & Sons , London scoTi.AM.. Uoiiie \C,.— aT.ASGl)W TO I.DINRURGII. 69 are two miles north-west of tlio town, and are woll wortli a visit. JjiNi.rniGOw (,'?l.i miles') (Ho- tel: Star and darter), the county town, a royal hurijli, and a |>lace veneratile for its antiijiii- lies. It is supposed to liavc been tlie Liiiflitm of I'tdleiuy. In the reij^n of David I. it was made llie first burgh of the kinj,Ml()m. It onco j)ossessed a considerable trade, with great wealth and splen- dour. 'l"ln; most remarkable of its hnildinp^s is the royal piluce, a the eastern side of which is a larg'e room having; a i,'ailery at one end. 'I'liis was called Parliament Hall. Ill this palace Mary (^iieen of Scots was born. The chapid occupies one side of the sciuare ; it was built by James \ . 1 lie views from many ])arts of the jialace are very line. About four miles beyond are till' ruins of ,\iddry t'astle, in which Mary Queen of Scots found refuge the night after her escajie from i.ochleven C'astle. Passing Winchburgh, Ratiio. and f\)rstor- EDINBURGII. (|uaalaceis a handsome srpinre, on |)hine stations, without meeting with anything of especial interest, we pass the precipitous rock and battlements of the castle and ri'ach the Iklinburgh terminus. RniNBrRoii. (Hotels : The UovAl.,* Eflinhursh, lialmflrnl, Bedford, ]l'aterlon. ) Population in 1870, 178.970. Edinburgh, the metropolis of Scoll.and, called the " .Modern Athens," is the c.ajntal of Edin- btirghshire, and is situated in its northern part, about a mile and a half from the Firth of Forth. It stands on high and uneven ground. 70 Route 16.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. Scotland. being' built on three ridges, run- ning from east to west. The cen- tral ridge on which the city was originally built is terminated ab- ruptly on the west by a precipi- tous roclc, crowned by the Castle, while, to the east, it gradually in- clines to a valley, whence, on the one side, rise the lofty elevations of Aithiir's Seat and Salisbury Crags, and, on the otiier, Culton Hill. The valley to the north of this ridge, which was formerly filled with water, is now converted into gardens, and is on the east side crossed by the North Bridge, and in its centre by the Earthen Mound. On the rising ground to the north is tlie new town. Both sides of the central ridge, occupied by the principal street of the old town, extending from the Castle to Holyrood House, are covered with buildings closely crowded together, and desc<'nding from the main street chiefly in long and narrow lanes. In the bottom of the valley on the south side of the High Street, and parallel with it, runs a narrow street called the Cowgate. This street communi- cates, by streets and narrow lanes, will) tiie southern partof the town, containing several old-fashioned squares, and leading to the hand- some suburbs called Newington and Morningside. There are the Meadows, a large level park, sur- rounded by trees and walks ; and, adjoining them, Bruntsfiekl Links, an extensive common. The new town is built on the lower and northernmost of the ridges. The ground which it occupies was added to the Royalty in 1767 ; and since that period numerous streets and squares have been con- structed on it, — in beauty and re- gularity unsurpassed by those of any otJier city in the world. Edin- burgh is connected with the Cal- ton Hill by an elegant bridge, of one large arch, and with Leith, its sea-port, by a broad and very fine road, called Leith ^Valk. The scenery around the citj', owing to the abrupt and craggy heights of Calton Hill and Arthur's Seat, which suddenly rises 800 feet high from the surrounding plain, and presents the rocky heights of Salisbury Crags towards the city, is very fine; and all that art can do has been done to display its natural advantages. Around Cal- ton Hill walks have been made at different elevations, from which the surrounding town and country are seen to great perfection. A road also winds round tlie still higher elevation of Salisbury Crags, from which the view is at once grand and imposing. Of the ])ublic buildings in Edin- burgh, the Castle is the most re- markable. V\'ith its works, it occupies an area of 7 acres, and is separated from the town by an open space nearly 300 ft. wide. It can accommodate 2,000 soldiers, and has space for 30,000 stands of arms. Here is the celebrated gun called Mons Meg, built of mal- leable iron staves, and supposed to Iiave been forged in Flanders in 1486. In one of the apart- ments, called the Crown-room, are shown the Regalia of Scotland. They were found in 1818, when the chest in which they were placed was broken open by a royal warrant. In one of the rooms of the castle, James VI., afterwards King of England, was born ; and on the esplanade, which leads to the castle, is now placed a bronze statue of the late Duke of York. There is a tradition which says, that this Castle was the residence of tlie daughters of the Pictish kings previous to their marriage ; hence it is sometimes called the "Camp of the Maidens." At the opposite extremity of the Old SCOTLAND. RoutelO.—GLASGOn' TO ED1\BURGII. Town, is the Palace of Ilolifiood, for several centuries the residence of the kings of Scotlaiul. The Abbey, now in ruins, was founded by David I., and several of his successors are buried here. Queen IVIary and Lord Darnley were married in the chapel of this Abbey. The Palace is a largo In Parliament Square, not fa. from the Castle, is a large irregula: pile of buildings, intended for tht- reception of the Scottish Parlia- ment, now used for tlie Law Courts. The Advocates' Library in this edifice, is tlie riciiest collec- tion in Scotland, consisting; of more tijan 150,000 volumes. Nearly EDINBURGH CASTLE. quadrangular buildii)": of stone, with a court, surrounded by pi- azzas. Several relics of the unfortunate Mary, and other relics, are pointed out to visitors. In one of its apartments the secretary of Queen JNIary, David Rizzio, was mur- dered in 156(5. The Palace is not of great antiquity, the towers on the north-west liavinij been built by James V., and tlie remainder of the building- during the reign of Charles IL opposite Parliament Square, is the Roiial Exchange, formerly the Custom-IIouse. St. Giles, the jNIetropolitan Church, forms one side of Parliament Square. It is built in the form of a cross, and is remarkable for its square tower, from which ascend four arches, forming an imperial crown, and surmounted by a spire. It was erected into a Colles:i:)te Church in 1466, but is said to have been founded nearly six hundred years before that. The Regent Murray, ncutc 16.— GLASGOW TO EBmBUTlGH. Scotland. and the Marquis of Montrose are buried within its precincts, 'i'he other principal cliurches are tlie Tron Church, on the south side of High Street, Trinity College Cliurch, the Ola and New Grey- friars, the Canongate, St. Cuth- bert's, Lady Yester's, St, An- drew's, and St. George's. The University has long since most remarkable being the un- finished National Monument, after the model of the Parthenon at Athens. A column to the me- mory of Lord Nelson crowns the western summit. A short distance to the north, is a monument to Professor Playfair, and near it is the Observatory. Westward, on the brow of the hill, is a monument ^.zr^^-^--^ ? HOLYROOD PALACE. attained great celebrity. Its foun- dation dates back to 1582. The edifice stands in a line with the west side of the South Bridge, forming a square, and possessing much architectural beauty. At the north end of the North Bridge is the Register Honse, a handsome building, where the public records are kept. Nearly opposite is the Theatre. Near by is the Regent Bridge, leading to Calton Hill, by Waterloo Place. On Calton Hill are several monuments; the to Dugald Stewart ; and, opposite the High School, is the monument to Robert Burns, placed in the spot where he is said to have writ- ten his address, " Edina ! Scotia's darling seat ! " In Princes Street Garden, op- posite the Royal Hotel, is the elegant monument to Sir Walter Scott, erected in 1844. It is 200 feet in height. There is a stair- way to the top, from which there is a fine view of the city and en- virons (admission, 2rf.). In the scoTLAsr.. Route 16.— GLASGOW TO KDIXniRGH. iiiclies are placed statues of pro- minent cliaracters in Scott's works. lieneath the main arclies of the monument is tlie statue of Sir Walter and his dojj, by Steele. 'I'he inscription is by Lord Jeffrey. In Princes Street Gardens is a statue of A Han Ramsay, by Steele, and in Frederick Street, a statue of U'illiam I'itt, by Chantrey. Tiie charitable establisliniciitsof Edinbur<^h are nunuTous,and some of them are well worth a visit. Heriot's Hospital, endowed hy Ceo. Heriot, a goldsmith of the city, for the education of the sons of burg^esses of Kdinburifh, and Watson's Hospital, founded by a merchant for the maintenance of boys of the city, a structure of more humble pretensions, are in the same quarter. 'I'ickets of per- mission to visit the former, on any day except Saturday and Sunday, may be had gratis, at 11, Royal Exchanpje, Higli Street, The Roynl Institution is situated at about the centre of Princes Street. It contains a considerable collection of antiquities, amoni;- them the original pulpit in whicli John Knox preached in St. Giles' Church. The National Gulleii/, immediately above tlie last-named edifice, is open on Monday, Tues- day, Wednesday, and Saturday, from 10 to 5, and on Saturday evening from 7 to 9, free ; on Thursday and Friday, from 10 to 4, admission, -id. It contains F'laxman's statue of Burns, and some excellent pictures ; among which are worksof 'litian, (iuido, Rembrandt, Tintorello, Paul \'er- onese, Van Dyke, and \'alesquez. In High Street, near the Tron Church (Old 'J'own), is the house once occupied by John Knox, ad- mission, Wednesdays and Satur- days, 6il. On the outside is the following inscription: Lufe God ABOFE AL THINGS, AND YI NKir.U- DOR AS visKi.F. At the comcf is a rude figure of the great Refor- mer in theattitudeof preaching to the people. He died in this house in 157'J, having resided here 13 years. Near this, and a little i'arther towaril Holyrood, com- mences Canongate, which once contained the houses of the Scot- tish nobility. In this street is the Canongate Tolbooth, a good speci- men of the original architecture of the Old Town. In the Canon- gate Churchyard, next the Tol- booth, rest the remains of Adam Smith, Uugald Stewart, and the ])oet Ferguson. The stone which covers the latter, was placed there by Burns, who caused to be in- scribed upon it the well-knowu lines: — " No sculptured marble here, nor pom- pous !;iy No storied urn, nor animated bust : This simple stone directs pale Scotia's way To pour her sorrows o'er her poet's • dust." Xear the foot of Canongate, in ^^ hite Horse Close, is the White Horse Inn, where Ur. Johnson lodged in 1773. It is now a poor tenement house. Salisbury Cracs and Artiivr's Skat are prominent objects to the south of IIol\TOod. On the north- ern slope of the latter are the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel. 1 his locality is the favourite re- sort of the citizens of Edinburgh. A fine carriage - road, " The Queen's Drive," surrounds Ar- thur's Seat. The views from the top and from the drive are very fine, and should not be oniittea. This neighbourhood, full of as- sociations with Scott's " Heart of .Mid- Lothian." In ascending the hill, may be seen the spot where Jennie Deans is represented as having met Robertson. Sir Walter Scott resided from 74 Route i.6.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. Scotland. 1800 to 1826, at No. 39, Castle Street. Robert Burns, during his first visit to Edinburgh, had lodgings in "Baxter's Close, Lawn Mar- ket;" but he afterwards occupied less humble lodgings " at the en- trance to St. James' Square, on tlie left hand. As you go up East Register Street, at the end of Register House, you see the end of a house at the left hand side of the top of the street. There is a perpendicular row of four win- dows ; the top window belongs to the room Burns occupied." — W.H. EXCURSION FROM EDINBURGH TO HAWTHORN- DEN AND ROSLIN. HE distance from Edui- burgh to Hawthornden is llj miles. The most convenient method of making the trip, is by the North British Railway, \^'averley Sta- tion. Time, 30 minutes. Fare, first-class, Is. Leaving Edinburgh, and pass- ing Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, the first objects of interest on the route are the ruins of Craig- miller Castle, near ftlillerhill ((■} miles). This castle was the prison- house of James V., and the fa- vourite residence of Queen jMary. She was also a prisoner here after the battle of Carberry. Two miles beyond Millerhill, is the Junction for Dalkeith, which is a mile dis- tant. The Palace is the principal residence of the Dukes of Buc- cleuch. It contains a good col- lection of paintings. Admission on Wednesday and Saturday. Hawthornden, once tlie resi- dence of the poet Drummond, is a short walk from tlie station. Ad- mission daily, charge, Is. The liouse is romantically situated on the edge of a chff overhanging the North Esk. The face of the rock beneath the house is pierced by many curious caves, which are said to have been the dwelling places of the ancient inhabitants of the country, and in which, in later years, have been concealed many patriots and refugees ; among them Bruce, whose cavern is pointed out by the attendant. The path to Roslin is through the grounds of Hawthornden, along the river. The scenery is very beautiful. Roslin Chapel is open to visitors every day, but on Sunday for divine service only. Admission, Is. It was founded in 1446, by AVilliam St. Clair, Earl of Roslin, and has long been the subject of general admiration to those qualified to judge of its merits as a relic of ecclesiastical architecture. Its dimensions are 69 feet in length by 34 in breadth, and 40 feet in height, with an arched roof supported by two rows of pillars, elaborately carved. The design, according to tradition, was by a Roman architect. During the progress of the building, it is said, some doubts having arisen in the mind of the architect as to the execution of some parts of the de- sign, he went to Rome for advice, leaving his apprentice in charge of the work. The latter carried on the work with so much success as to overcome the difficulty which had staggered his master ; and a fine fluted column, called " The Apprentice's Pillar," richly orna- mented with wreaths of flowers and foliage, delicately carved, and in prominent relief, is still shown as the pillar on which the genius of the apprentice was too fatally developed ; for, on his return from Rome, saysthelegend, thejealousy of the architect was so kindled at the sight of this master-piece, that SCOTLAND. Koute 16.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. 75 he slew the apprentice with a hlow of his iiammer. I'pon tlie archi- trave which joins tliis pilhir to the smaller one on the soutli wall, is the following inscription in Gothic characters: Forte est vinum : FORTion EST Rex: rouTioREssuNT MULIEUES: SUPER OllNtA VINCET VERITAS. RosLiN Castle looks down from an isolated height over the river Esk. Its origin is involved in mystery, but it is assigned to the eleventh century. There remain the Island and Castle, charge, 6s. This loch has long been celebrated for its trout, but since its reduction by drainage, they have not been so plentiful. Locldeven Caslteison one of the islands in the loch, the one nearest the town. Here the unfortunate ^Mary, Queen of Scots, after her separation from Both- well at Carberry Hill, suffered the rigors of a close confinement for eleven months. Here "she ex- erted the potent witchery of her charms upon the heart of Douglas, LOCHLEVEN CASTLF. two tiers of arched rooms orvaults. It is chiefly remarkable for its picturesque situation. EXCURSION FROM EDINBURGH TO KINROSS AND LOCHLEVEN CASTLE (38^ miles). HIS excursion may be made in one day, by leav- ing Edinburgh (Waver- ley Station) in an early train, crossing the ferry to Burntis- land, and thence again by railway uid Thornton Junction. Kinross (Hotel: Kirkland's) is on the shore of Loch Leven. Boats may be obtained for visiting who, intoxicated with a romantic passion and ambitious hopes, sacri- ficed his duty." The queen, with the assistance of her lover, escaped from the castle on the 2nd of May, 1568, while the inmates were at prayers. She landed at a spot on the south shore, called " iNIary's Knowe" (Knoll), accompanied by Douglas, and one female attend- ant, where she was received by Sir James Hamilton and Lord Seaton, and conveyed to Niddrj- Castle. She found herself in a few days at the head of an army of 6,000 men. Ten days after her escape, her army was defeated, and she threw herself on the protection of Queen Elizabeth, only to find herself a prisoner for life. 76 Route i7.— GLASGOW TO OBAN. SCOTLAND. EOUTE 17. GLASGOW TO OBAN. 129 miles. FareiSs. Time 12 hours. \ Y steamer to Arclrisliaig-, thence hy Crinan Canal to Crinan, thence by steamer to Oban. Daily during the season, leaving Glas- gow at 7 a.m. and Greenock at 9 a.m. That portion of the route be- tween Glasgow and Greenock is described in Route 12 above. After embarking at Greenock the passengers who have preferred to come by railway to join the steamer there, the steamer touches at Dunoon, a favourite bathing- place. (^Hotels: Argyll, Crouii, Eoyal). (Coaches leave Dunoon on tlie arrival of the steamer, for Inverary, following tlie shores of the Frith of Clyde, Loch Eck,and the valley of the Cur, a beautiful route. At Strachur, passengers embark on board a little steamer, which conveys them across Loch Fyne to Inverary). Overlooking the landing we see the ruins of Dunoon CuUle, some miles fartlier on we round Toirard Point, with its lighthouse, and ruined castle, and enter the bay of Rothesay. On the east side of the Isle of Bute we see, at a distance. Mount Stuart, the seat of tlie Marquis of Bute, surrounded by a fine park ; beyond, when the day is clear, we can make out Ailsa Craig, and the mountains of Arran. The next place of interest is Rothesay (Bute Arms Hotel), a watering-place of 4000 inhabitants. Its agreeable situation and fine climate commend it as a favourite place of resort to numerous visitors. Its castle is one of the most beautiful ruins in Scotland, and was once a residence of the Kings of that country. Leaving Rothsay we direct our course toward the Kyles of Bute, a channel passing around the northern extremity of the Isle of Bute, forming a passage from the Clyde to the mouth of Loch Tyne. The finest scenery is near Loch Ridden, the mouth of which is passed, where are four small islands, on one of which called Eilan-Gerig, are the ruins of a fort once held by the Earl of Argyll, while conspiring with RIonmouth in 1(585. Passing Tignabruich and round- ing Ardlamont Point, we enter Loch Fyne — one of the largest of the Scotch lochs. At Tarbert, where the steamer touches, pas- sengers disembark who wish to visit Knapdale or Cantyre or to take at West Tarbert on the other side of the isthmus, the steamer to the island of Islay. Pursuing our course up Loch Fyne we soon reach ylrdrishaig {Hotel: Royal), the entrance to the Crinan Canal. (Coaches run from this place to Oban and Loch Awe). Here pas- sengers are transferred to a canal barge, in which the passage of the canal is made. The canal is cut nine miles across the neck of the ]\Iull of Cantyre. But for it, steamers would be compelled to double the IMuU, a journey of more than sixty miles. At Crinan, the terminus of the canal, a steamer awaits the arrival of the passengers for Oban. It is less spacious and comfortable than the boat at the Glasgow end of the route, and our course being more open, passengers are likely to be made uncomfortable by the swell. About 2^ hours are occu- pied in reaching Oban. Entering Loch Crinan, we see, on the north side, Duntroon Castle, SCOTLAND. lloutelT.—GLASC.On' TO OU.IX. 77 and pass, on tlic ri-^lit, /.oc/i Crult^- nish, with its many islands crowned witli woods, and, on the left, are seen the islands of Jura and Scarhu with their lot'ty peaks. Between Jura and Scarba is the famous whirlpool of Corruirekaii , in wliicii many a vessel has been en<:^ulp]ied, and the sound of whose tumul- tuous waters can be heard at a considerable distance. Its name is derived from that of a Norwe- ofian prince, \'rekan, who was lost in it many ages ago. The steamer now passes on the right the islands of Shinia and Liiing, or through the strait between them. Beyond the promontory of .!/•- diiicaple, Be7) cniachaii is seen on the north-east, and sometimes in clear weather, Ben More in the Isle of .Mull is visible. We now enter the strait between Kerrcini and the main land, and see, on the left, the ruins of Gaylen or Cntlen Castle ; and soon afterwards we arrive at Odan (129 miles.) (Hotels: Great Western, Craig-ard, Caledoniun, King's Arms), a fami- liar j)lace of resort to tourists from the facility which it affords of visiting all parts of the Highlands, and also for its excellent sea- bathing. It is, moreover, consi- dered remarkably healthy, and is greatly frequented by invalids seeking benefit from change of air and scene. On the summit of a steep rock half a mile from the town, are the ruins of 7J((/io!/i; Castle. Far- ther nortliward, and three miles from Oban, those of Dnnstafnage Castle, the residence, in ancient times, of thechieftains of the I'icts. Here, for a long time, was pre- served the stone on which the kings of Scotland sat at their coro- nation. It was afterwards re- moved to Sco«e, where it remained until, in the thirteenth century, Edward I. carried it with him to England, and dej)0.sited it in \\ eslmiiistcr Abbey, where it still forms part of the coronation chair on which the English sovereigns are seated at the time of their coronation. IIOUTE 18. UBAX TO STAITA A\D lONA. ( By steamer four times a week — fare 11., which includes the landing: charges. 'Ills tri]) should only be undertaken in fine wea- ther. When the .sea is rough the landing at Stafia cannot be made. 'l"he usual route is from Oban directly across th(,' mouth of Loch Linnlie, ])ass- ing to the left of the island of Lismore. Before reaching the mouth of Lock Aline are seen the ruins of Ardtornish Castle, on a chain of rocks overlooking the sea. It was once a principal strong- hold of the "Lords of the Isles." We pass in succession Salen, near which we see Aros Castle, and, on the right, Killundine Castle, on the Morven coast, and reach ToitBEUMOKv, {Hotel: Mull), the principal village of JMull. Quit- ting this, vco pass the mouth of Loch Stuart, and on tlie right, before reaching Ardnamurclian Point, seeiMingarry Castle, a con- siderable ruin nearly surrounded ])y water. Passing the point named, the steamer enters the At- lantic. Passing on the left the Island of Cometra, " And Ulva dark and Colonsay And all the pronp of islets jray That guard famed Staffa round," we approach Staff v. The island is nearly two miles in circumfer- 78 Route 18.— OBAN TO STAFFA AND lONA. Scotland. ence, and is uninhabited. It pre- sents an uneven table-land, ter- minating nearly all round in cliffs of variable height. It owes its reputation to its caves, of which the most celebrated is Fingal's Cave, which fronts to the south- west. Unless the weather is bad, boats convey passengers to this cave. The entrance, which is about sixty feet high and forty- two feet wide, resembles a Gothic arch. The columns which bound the interior sides are perpendicu- from the birds of that kind that frequent it in great numbers. The Boat Cave is so called because it can be entered only by boat. Neither of the other caves possess the magnificence of the great cave, and further description of them is deemed unnecessary. The island of Staffa lies in the same longitude with the celebrated Giant's Causeway, and was pro- bably produced by the same vio- lent effort of nature. Tlie island, tliough one of the great curiosi- riNGAL S CAVE. lar, and being frequently broken and grouped in a variety of ways, produce a picturesque effect. The roof in some places is formed of rock, in others of the ends of broken pillars from the interstices of which stalactites have exuded. The length of the cave is 227 feet, its breadth at the mouth 53 feet. The other caves are " Scollop-shell Cave," "The Cormorants'," or " McKinnnn's," and "the Boat Cave." The first-named is so called from its supposed resemblance to a shell of that description. The inside is 30 feet high, its breadth 18 feet, and its depth 130 feet. The Cormorants' Cave is named ties of nature, was, until within the present century, nearly unno- ticed. Leaving Staffa and proceeding southward, we soon see, in the dis- tance, lovA, or Icolmkill, " the Is- land of Columba's Cell." Writers usually call it by the more eupho- nious name of lona, the " Island of Waves." It is nine miles from Staffa. As we approach the island, the tower of the cathedral is a conspicuous object. This small island was once, as Dr. Jolmson states, " the luminary of Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving barbarians derived the benefits of SCOTLAND. Route 18.— OBAN TO STAFFA AXD lON.t, 79 knowledj^^e, and the blessinijs of reli.la, too, shall sink. While, with the great and ho(a\, Columbu's happier isle shall rear Her towers above the flood." The chapel of the nunnery is in a tolerable state of preservation. Among other interesting objects on the island is a beautiful cross called " Maclean's Cross," one of a great number which were stand- ing at the time of the Reforma- tion, but which were then ordered to be demolished. There were formerly three hundred of these crosses. lona is three miles long and one mile broad. Its surface is unequal, but on the east side it is level, and here is the "village of Threld, con- taining about 100 inhabitants. It has fine pasturage, and parts of it are well cultivated. Route 19. OIJAN TO GLEXCOJ::. iURIXG the summer a steamer leaves Ouan on every week day for Bal- lachulish (26 miles), where conveyances are in waiting to carry passengers to Glf.nxoe and back in time to return by the steamer the same evening to Oban. This method of visiting Glencoe is j)rcferable, as the excursion from Oban and back occupies less than 12 hours. Tliere is a coach from Ballachulishto Loch Lomond, and passengers, by securing places at Oban may see Glencoe on the route, but the trip beyond Glencoe is comparatively uninteresting. On leaving Oban the steamer passes between the island of Ker- rara and DunoUy Castle, and takes the passage between the island of Lismore and the coast, the route being through part of Loch Linnhe, north of i^ismore, thence into Loch Leven, in which we land at Bulla- 80 Route 19.— OB A A' TO GLEKCOE. SCOTLAND. chnlUh (BallachulUh Hotel). A short drive brings us to the en- trance to Glencoe. Its scenery is proverbial for the wild sublimity of its features. The rocks seem to hide their summits in the clouds, and such is the air of desolation which pervades it that one finds it difficult to believe that tlie glen was ever the habitation of civilized Cona, appears to have been his birth-place. " Sleeps the sweet voice of Cona in the midst of his rustling hall? Sleeps Ossian in his hall and his friends without their fame?" "The chiefs ga- thered from all their hills, and heard the lovely sound. They praised the voice of Cona, first among a thousand bards." (JI.ENCOE. beings. It exhibits nearly the same features throughout; the same aspect of mingled grandeur and sterility, the same chaos of rocks and frowning precipices. About the middle of the glen, tlie whole length of which is about eight miles, is the lake Treachtan, from which a streamlet, the " Cona " of Ossian, issues. To the reader of Ossian this is classic ground. From the evidence af- forded by several passages in his poems, Glencoe, or the vale of tlie But with the poetical associa- tions of Glencoe one of a truly painful nature is ever present to the imagination, the massacre of its unsuspecting inhabitants, the Macdonalds, in 1692. In August preceding the massacre, many of the Highlanders having been in arms in favour of the abdicated James II. a proclamation had been issued offering an indemnity to such of the insurgents as should take the oath of allegiance to Wil- liam III. before the last day of •SCOTLAND. lioute 19.— HAS TO GI.KXCOE. 81 DeceiulxT, and tlie cliii'fs of tlio clans iivailcil themselves of if, anil took the rciiuired oatli. i\lac- donald of Glencoe was prevented by accident from tenderin<^ l)is subnoissioii within tlie specified time. " In the end of December he went to Colonel Hill, Governor of Fort \\ illiam, and tendered liis allegiance. This the colonel hail no power to receive. Sympa- thising, however, witli the distress of the old chieftain he gave him a letter to Sir Colin Campbell, •Sheriff of Argyllslare, reiiuesting him to receive Macdonald's sub- mission and administer tiie oatli to him tliat he might have the benefit of tlie indemnity. Mac- donald hastened to Inverary, but Ids way lying tlirougli almost im- passable mountains, and the coun- try being covered witli snow, tlie ill-fated chieftain di way we ascend, independently ot' the three locks of Corpach, eight others called Xeptune s Sutircttfe, leaving;, on the right, the village of Corpach, and, afterwards, on the left, the church of Kilmaillie ; near which we see an obelisk in memory of ColonelJohu Cameron. Sir Walter Scott composed the in- scription. Three miles further we remark, on the right, the ruins of Tor Cdslle, the ancient residence of the chief of the clan Chattan ; and, on the left, the lands of M'est and East Moji, opposite the conflu- ence of the ^pean and tli(? Lochy. Loch LocUii is 10 miles in lengtli by J of a mile in width ; but at the point where it receives the waters of Loch Arkaig; its width is nearly doubled. Here, on the left, we see Anchtiacarrit, tlie seat of Cameron of Lochiel, chief of the clan that bears his name, embowered in woods. On the opposite shore we notice Glenfintuig House. Two miles distant from Loch Lochy is Loch Oich, the little vil- lage of Las:zan lying betwcv3n them. Loch Oich is o\ miles long. Its breadth varies from ]- to one- sixth of a mile. It contains two or three small wood<,'d islands. On its north-west bank it receives the Gurry, near the mouth of ■which we see the ruins of hue r- garry Castle, the residence of the chief of the lAlacdonnels, burnt by the Duke of Cumberland in 174.). Above it rises Cruig-na-Phithick, or "The Haven's Rock," which was the ancient war-cry of the family. From Loch Oich we descend to Loch Ness, by seven locks, a dis- tance of 2 milesjoccupying one hour and a half. At tlie west extremity of Loch \ess is Fort Augustus, between the Oich and the Tarff, liiiiltafter the insurrection of 171.5. Loch Xess is about '.'4 miles long. Its breadth variis from J of a mih- to 1] mile; it is very deep, and has never been known to freeze. Its banks are clothed with more varied and picturesque scenery than is to be found about the other two lochs. Xine miles from the entrance to Loch A ess is tlie Foyers Pier. 1 lere the steamer waits to allow tlie ])assengers the ojiportunity of visiting the far-famed F.u.i.s oi FovKRs, wliicli are about 4^ of a mile from the i'oyers Hotel. There are two falls: the lower, by far the most beautiful, is about 35 feet high ; the higher, which is divided into two, only about '28 feet. A bridge of a single arch connects the two banks of the river. These falls can be seen to most advantage from below the bridge. From the rocks which tower above the lower iall,a good view can be obtained of Loch Ness, over which rises, to a height of more than 3000 feet, the peak of Meiilfourvournie. Two miles be^-ond the mouth of the Foyers, on the same bank, we ])ass liiverfurigaig, overhung by tlie Bluck Jlock, wliich presents tlie form of a lion, and is crowned by the fort of Duniurdd. Two miles further we observe Castle I'rquhart, which has the reputa- tion of being the last of the for- tresses in Scotland to surrender to Edward 1. At the rear of tiiis castle appears Glen i'rquhart, con- taining a rich extent of territory in good cultivation. (Here is a good hotel, called Drumnudro- chet.) Approaching the north-east of Loch Ness, we see Aldourie Home, the birthplace of Sir James INIackintosh. 84 lloute'20.—OBAN TO INVERNESS. Scotland. Eiglit and a half miles from Drumnadrochet a strait of about J of a mile in length unites Loch Ness -with Loch Dodijour, on the banks of which latter we notice Dochfour House. Passing througli this small lake, the canal runs pa- rallel with the River Ness, which waters the fertile valley of its name, and leaves successively, on the right, Kess Castle, and Ness Side, and farther on, on the left, Craig Phadrick, beyond which stretches Loch Eeaiily. Finally, passing between the heights of Torvain and Tomnahuricli, the steamer stops 1 mile from In- verness, in the Mitirtown Lochs (6| miles from Loch Ness), near which are stationed public con- veyances to convey the tourists to the town of Inverness. {Hotels: Raihvaxi, Caledonian, Union.) (See Route as). " Among the heathy hills and r.igged woods The roaring Foyers pours his mossy floods, Till full he dashes on the rocky mounds, Where, through a shapeless breach, his stream resounds. As high in air the bursting torrents flow, As deep recoiling surges foam below. Prone down the rock the whitening sheet descends, And viewless echo's ear, astonished, rends. Dim-seen, through rising mists and ceaseless show'rs. The hoary cavern, wide-surrounding low'rs ; Still through the gap the struggling river toils. And still below the horrid caldron boils."— Burks. Route 21. EDINBURGH TO GLASGOW BY STIRLING, The Trossachs, asd Lochs Ka- ■jRixE AND Lomond. HIS excursion may be made in one day, but in that case no stop can be made at Stirling or any other point on tlie way. Tickets for the excursion are sold at Edinburgh and Glasgow. Leaving Edinburgh by the Waverley Station, and passing through the tunnel, we see on the left the Penlland Hills, and on the right Donaldson Hospital; af- terwards, crossing the River Leith, we leave, on the right, Corstor- phine Hill; and pass in succession Corstorphine (3j miles), Cwgar (Sj miles), and Ratho (8^- miles). Here is a branch line to Bathgate. On tlie right is KirUston, the church of which belonged for- merly to tlie Knights 1'emplars. We now cross Almond Water, which separates Mid-Lothian from Linlithgowshire. An agreeable and extensive view is here afforded us, comprising the shores of the Firth of Forth. On the right is Newliston Park, formerly the resi- dence of the Earl of Stair, who was deeply implicated in the tra- gical massacre of Glencoe. A short distance fartlier we pass, on the right, the ruins of Niddri/ Castle. Leaving Wincliburgh (12 miles), where Edward II. made his first halt after the Battle -of Bannockburn, we reach Linlith- gow (17 miles) (see Route 16), Polmont (22^ miles), and arrive at Lurbert C28 miles), the burial- place of Bruce, tlie Abyssinian traveller. Here is a junction with the line from Glasgow. We then SCOTLAND. Route ^l.— EDIXBURGIl TO GLASGOW. 8.Ti pass Baiinockbunt (32^ miles), when-, in 1,'>14, the gri-At battle to which the villacje owes its fame was foiiffht between I'.dwaril II. and Robert Bruce. 'J he scene of this memorable conflict is at a short distance on the lett of the station. In a south-westerly di- rection from thf> vilhii^e of St. Xiniaii's, is a hill called Brock's i.iNG (36 miles), a town of about 1,'1,000 inhabitants, situated on the riu;lit bank of the Forth. (llotcU: Hoi/al, Gulden Lion.) 'lliis town is one of the four which, accordin-; to the provisions of the Act of Union, were stipu- lated always to remain fortified antl E^arrisoned. 'J'hc castle stands on the edge of a steep rock, ovcr- STini.ING. Brae, on which the tourist will find the " liore Stone," said to m.ark the spot where tlio standard of Jinicewas planted during the battle. To the westward is Gillies Hill, where were stationed the camp-followers who eventually de- cided the fortunes of the day. When the contest had been carried on for some hours with varying- success, they unexpectedly made a move to the front: the I"nglish,takinfc them for a fresh army, were seized with a panic and fled, leaving the vic- tory to the Scotcn. This spot can be conveniently visited fromSxiu- hanpfing the Forth and the plain called The Cinse of Stilling. It was once a stronghold of great importance; Ivluard I. besieged it m 1304, and, having taken it with the greatest ditiiculty, it re- mained tor ten years in the pos- session of the ICnglish, until their defeat at IJannockburn. In the time of the Stuarts it became a royal residence, and was tlie birth- place of James II. and .lames V. Jn the part called tlie Palace, on the south-east side of the castle, is shown the Douglas Koom, where James II. killed the Earl 86 Route 21.— EDINBURGH TO GLASGOW. Scotland. of Douglas for entering into a co- venant with the Earls of Ross and (Jrawford, which he feared would prove prejudicial to his own autho- rity. On tlie west side is the an- cient Chapel Royal, now used as an armourj-. From the castle walls we have a wide and attractive prospect, especially from a point near the governor's house called " The Lady's Look-out." On the west is the vale of MenteUh and the heights of Ben Louwiid, Beiivenue, Ben-A'an, Ben Ledi, Ben Voiiiich, and others of lesser note. On the north and east we observe the Ochill Hilts, and, on the south, the Campsie Hitls, while immediately beneath us appear the ruins of Camhushennetli Abbey, Al)beif Craig, surmounted by the Wallace Mo- nument, and the Brittge of Allan. To the north is the " Heading Plill," where executions used to take place, and to the south the cemetery containing the statues of John Knox and others conspi- cuous for their exertions in the Presbyterian cause. AA'e notice also the King's Garden, and, far- ther on, the King's Park. Stirling contains several public buildings, amongst which are Coican's Hospital, with its quaintly designed garden in the Dutch style ; Greiijiiais Chtiicb, in which James VI. was crowned in 1567, John Knox preaching the sermon on that occasion; Aygi/lt's Lodging, formerly the property of Sir Wil- liam Alexander f afterwards Ivarl of Stirling), the founder of the co- lony of A'ova Scotia, and subse- (|uently in the ]iosscpsion of the Larls of Argyll; and I\Iar's Work, said to have been partially built by the Earl of Mar from the ruins o£ Ca7tibusheiiiie(h Abbey. This last is situated near Abbey Craig, and consists onlj^ of a tower and gate- way. It contains the tomb of James III., restored in 1865 by command of the Queen, and bear- ing an inscription to that effect. Leaving Stirling, the railway crosses the Forth, passing on the left the castle hill, and on the right Abbey Craig and the Ochill Hills. A short distance beyond Airthrey, famed for its mineral springs, we reach the Bridge of Allan (39 miles) (Hotels: Royal, Qiieen's),'a charming village, attracting many visitors during the season to take the waters and baths of Airthrey. Farther on we pass on the right Kelr, and on the left Kippenross. Skirting the pleasantly wooded banks of Allan Water, we reach Dunblane (41 miles) (Hotel: Deuar's). Here are the ruins of a cathedral situated on an emi- nence, the base of which is washed by the river. Leaving Dunblane, the first station is Doune (45 miles). Tlie castle is one of the most imposing ruins of its kind in Scotland, standing on a mound at the confluence of the Teith and the Ardoch. Tradition alleges it to have been built by the Regent Murdoch, Duke of Albany, who Mas afterwards beheaded on the Castle Hill of Stirling. It is square-built, with walls 80 feet high and 10 feet thick. There are several dungeons on the ground floor, and many of the apartments are spacious and in good preser- vation. 'The Bridge of Doune, across the Teith, was built, as we are in- formed by an inscription on one of its parapets, by Robert Spittal, Tailor to Margaret, wife of James IV., and the founder of Spittal's Hospital at Stirling. Leaving Doune, we pass on the right the Braes of Doune, and see Doune Lodge, or Cambuswallace, the residence of the Earl of Mo- ray ; farther on, to the left, are the ruins of Kilmaldock Church ; and, «coTLANO. K.uiun.— EDINBURGH TO CLASGOW Q7 still fiirtlier, Cumhnsmore, wIktc Sir Walter Scott, in his A'outli, was a rr('(iticnt guest. Wi- now- cross the kellie, ami, passing on the left the remains of a Roman camp, reach Callfiidur (5'i miles), (Hotels: DieudiiiUi'j;lit, M'C'resor'a), situated on the banks of the Teitli. Here tlie route by railway ends. Tiie country around Calliuider is liiglily attractive. A short dis- tance btdow it is th(> Camp, a villa surrounded by "rounds beautifully laid out. It derives its name from tlie remains of entrenchments, believed to be Roman, in its vi- cinity. To the north, above the village, is Cdlltinder Craig, preci- pitous and partially covered with ■wood. Towarils the north-west we see the junction of the rivers Vennachav and Liibiiai<;, the woods of Gaitclioiizie, and thii beautitul Passnf l^iiii ; — Bfiiledi towers be- fore us to tlie height of 3000 feet. On its summit, it is said, heathen rites were in ancient times cele- brated in honour of the sun. From Callander we proceed to Loch Katrine, by coacli, through scenes described in Scott's poem, ■*' The Lady of the Lake." Leaving the valley of Bocastle, with the house and grounds of Leiiii, we advance towards the waterfalls of (lartchonzie, where the \^enna- char, issuing from the lake of its name, dashes over a succession of rocks and rushes down to Coilant- ogle Ford, It was to this spot the poet represents Rhoderick Dim to have pledged his faith to convey Fitz James " As fajc as Coilantogle's Ford " and reaching which he challenged him to combat. ■"See, here all vantageless I stand, Armed like thyself with single brand ; For this is Ooilantogle Ford, And thou must keep thee with thy sword." We now come in sight of l.i>cli J'eiimichiir (.5 mih^s); it is 5 miles in length by IJ miles in breadth, and on it we observe a small island covered with wood. Tlie lake lies on our left, and Benledi rises aloft on our right. ( In a note to the " Lady of the Lake," Sir \Valt<.'r Scott says, " I took uncommon pains to verify the .accuracy of the local circum- stances of this story. I recollect, in ])arti(ular, that to iiscertain whether 1 was telling a ])robable tale, 1 went into Perthshire to see wht!ther l-'itz James could actually have ridden from the banks of Loch \'ennachar to Stirling castle within the time supposed in the poem, and had the pleasure to satisfy myself that it was (juite practicable.") The tourist next passes through Gartchi'iizie l\ ood, " tlie wood of lamentations," so called from a legend to the effect that a demon, or " water keluie," appeared there to a number ot children, and drag- ged them with it underneath the waters. Xear the west end of the lake, where " Stern and steep The hill sinks down upon the deep ; Here Vennachar in silver flows," on the left, on a level headlanr", is the s])0t where the forces of Clan Alpine assembled, and a little be- low, the iilace wliere the clan lay in ambuscade till roused by Rho- derick Dhu's whistle. " Instant, through copse and heath, arose Bonnets and spears and bended bows ; On right, on left, al)ove, below, Sprunc up at once the lurking foe ; From shingles grey their lances start, The bracken bush sends forth the dart, The rushes and the willuw wand Are bristling into axe and brand. And every tuft of broom gives life To plaided warrior armed for strife." 88 lloule 2i.— EDINBURGH TO GLASGOW, scoti.axd. About a mile beyond Loch Ven- nachar we see the river Achray flowing out of its parent loch, and tlie loch itself lying between wooded mountains. Sliortly after- wards " Duncraggan's huts appear at last And peep, like moss-gi-own rocks, half- seen, Half-hidden in the copse so'green." Leaving on the right an anc'ent burial-ground, the tourist then reaches the Bridge of Turk {6-^ miles), leaving which we proceed along the north shore of Loch Achraxj. To the left we see Ben- i)e?!«e, and,on the right, BenA'an, and between them stretches the Va$s of the Troisachs, " Bristled Territory." We soon reach tlie Trossachs Hotel (8| miles), from which the route is through a wild glen, abounding with crags and ravines, some rugged and bare, others covered with brushwood and trees of various kinds, alto- gether presenting a scene of most picturesque confusion. " But not a setting beam could glow Within the dark ravine below. Where twined the path, in shadow hid. Bound many a rocky pyramid, Shooting abruptly from the dell." As we near Loco Katrine we pass, in a ravine, the spot where Fitz James' " gallant grey " fell exhausted. On the left is a range of rocks giving a wonderfully dis- tinct echo. This ravine is called Bealan Vuiiie, and here a fight took place between the natives and a detachment of Cromwell's army. We next arrive at Loch Katrine Pier, where a steamer awaits the arrival of the conch. Embarking, we pass T.lleu's Isle, the scene of the interview between Fitz James and the heroine of the poem. From this point there is a famous echo, and here we have the best view of Benvenue. The scene before us is thus de- scribed in ''The Ladv of the Lake." " Where gleaming 'neath the setting sun, One burnish'd sheet of living gold,^ Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll'd ; In all her length far winding lay In promontory, creek and bay. And islands that empurpled bright Floated among the livelier light. And mountains that like giants stand To sentinel enchanted land. High on the south huge Benvenue Down to the lake in masses threw Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly hurl'd. The fragments of an earlier world; A wildeiing forest feather'd o'er His ruin'd sides and summit hoar. While on the north through middle air Ben-An heaved high his forehead bare." Opposite Ellen's Isle, at the base of Benvenue, is the entrance of the narrow gorge leading to Coir- 7i(i7i-Uriska)i, or The Goblin's Cave. This is a vast hollow in the moun- tain side, shut in by huge masses of fallen rocks and the trees and brushwood that have grown up amongst them. Here it was that Ellen raised her " angel hymn," while concealed by her father, after he had borne her off from Khoderick Dhu. The scenery around is considered even more charming than that of the Tros- sachs, though entirely differing from it in its general features. " No murmur waked the solemn still. Save tinkling of the fountain rill ; But when the wind chafed with the lake, A sullen sound would upward break." Above the Goblin's Cave is_ Bealach-nam-Bo, or The Pass of Cattle, wliich may be reached through a cliasm in the cave. This pass is shut in by huge crags, covered with aged birch-trees and copsewood of various kinds. Through it the cattle stolen by moss-troopers were conducted to- SCOTLAND. Rouie n.—KDlSBURCn TO GLASGOW m wards tlin Trossaclis. The sum- mit of tlio mountain can bo easily reaclied hy an active clnuber from this ])oint. At the western extremity of the locli wi! see the aiiiuMhict by whicii water is carried to (Uas- fow, a distance of 31: miles. Ben .omond is seen on the left. AVe now arrive at Stiouaclitacbar Pier. A coach leaves here at once for Inversnaul, on Loch Lomond, a dis- tance of 5 miles. Lea V i ni^ Stronachlacliar, we pass on the left, Loch Arklel (2 miles), and soon afterwards, descending: a steej) hill by the side of Arklet water, we reach Loch Lo.mond at Iiiversnaid pier. (Hotel: Blair's.) J.ocii Ix)mond, " tlie Queen of the Scot- tish Lakes," is ^4 miles lonn;, and 7 miles wide at its southern ex- tremity, while only about a mile in breadth at the nortlu-rn part; its area is 45 square miles. Jt varies in depth from about (iO to 600 feet, and its surface is 2'i feet above the level of the sea. Its waters are swelled by contribu- tions from several streams, iIk; chief of which is E)idrick, iVom the south-east ; the surplus waters are carried oft" by the Leven, wliich flows into the Clyde. Tlie lower portion of the Loch is surrounded by a hilly, but well cultivated, and finely wooded country; and the character of the scenery is in tlie highest dcE^ree rich and beautiful. Around tlii! norllnM-n portion of the Loch are piled high, wide, and picturesque masses of mountains ; Ben Lomond on the east, and the AiTochar llilh on the west. The surface is dotted over with nu- merous islands, which are finely diversified in tlieir general ap- pearance, and contribute greatly to the exquisite beauty of the scene. At Inversnaid, close to tlie pier. is a waterfall, tlie scene of Words- wortli's " Highland (Jirl." In front, on the I^och, we ob- serve hivern^lus Isle, with the ruins of a castle, once lield by the chief of the .Macfarhmes, and st>veral lofty mountains; amongst which we n/mark Ben Vane, 300 i IXVEnSNAID. feet, and Ben Voirlich, 3092 feet high. (Steamers ply from IJalloch pier, at the southern extremity, to the head of tlie loch (6 miles). Tourists who remain over at Inversnaid, may take this steamer and see the upper ])art of the loch. About one mile from In- versnaid, on the s.ime side, is " Rob Koy's Cave," once the re- 90 Route 21.— EDINBURGH TO GLASGOW. Scotland. treat of tliat outlaw, an extensive cavern -with a narrow opening. About 2 miles farther, is the wooded island of Eilan Vow, with the remains of a stronghold of the Macfarlanes ; and 3 miles beyond, is the Loch Head Pier, where conveyances are in waiting to convey passengers to Inverarnan, Hotel, which is beautifully situ- ated). Leaving Inversnaid for Balloch Pier, the steamer touches at Tar- bet (Turbet Hotel), a favourite stopping-place for tourists. It is the landing-place for passengers destined to Inveravy yidtGlencoe, and to Oban by Glenorchy. The last-named route is adopted by many tourists going to Oban in- stead of the route by steamer (Route 17). From Tarbet we have the finest view of Ben Lomond (3192 ft.), which is nearly op- posite across the loch. The ascent may be made conveniently from this place. The distance to the summit is about 4 miles, and the ascent can be made with ponies. The steamer now recrosses the loch, and stops at Rowardenan Pier, where there is an excellent hotel, and from whicli point tourists may conveniently make the ascent of Ben Lomond. Again crossing the loch, the steamer Stops at Lkss, where there is a good hotel. From this point to Bal- maha Pier, we pass on the riglit Inchtavauach, Lichconnaclian, Inchf;id,and Inclicailloch ; and on the left, Inchlonaig. From Bal- maha to Balloch Pier, we pass on the right Inchmurrin, the largest island in the loch, now preserved by the Duke of Montrose as a deer-park ; and on the left, Bo- turich Castle, and about a mile from tlie pier, Balloch Castle. At Balloch Pier, we take the rail- way for Dumbarton and Glasgow. (See Route 12). Route 22. EDINBURGH TO PERTH (BY STIRLING). 75 miles ; fitres, Jirst-class, 10s.; fecond, 7s. 6d. ; iliird, 5s. 6d. HIS route is the same as Route 21, as far as Dunblane. (^Hotel: i^.-f^^nsi^^ Deua/s.) After pass- ing this station, we pass on the right Sheriffmuir, a moorland tract, where, in 1715, the Duke of Argyll, who commanded the Royalist army, fought a battle with the rebels under the Earl of JMar. Each general retired from the contest, believing himself beaten, and each subsequently claimed the victory. Iliis inci- dent forms the subject of a humor- ous song from the pen of Robert Burns. We next reach Greenloaming (45 miles), where passengers change for Comrie, Locheanihead, Oban, and FortwUUam, by way of Crieff. Just after passing Green- loaming, we leave, on the left, Ardoch House. The park attached to tlie mansion contains tlie cele- brated Roman Camp of Ardoch ; the i-emains of wliich are clearly defined, and occupy an extentof more than 300 square yards. As we approach Perth, the Grampian Hills increase in height, and be- come more and more distinct to the north and west, while the horizon on our right is bounded by the Ochill Hills. Near Black- ford (51 miles), we remark, on the right, Kincardine Castle. Passing Auchterarder (55j miles), cele- brated as the place where the pro- ceedings were held which led to the establishment of the Free Church of Scotland, we reach Forteviol (62 miles), near the con- SCOTLAND. Route 22.— EDIXBURGII TO I'EUTII. 91 fluence of the Mwi/ Water and the Hani, and observe, on the left, Diipptin Castle, the resilience of the Earl of Kinnonll. IJoyond Forgunilenntf (Go miles), we enter a tunnel 1| mile lonj,', cut throujj;h the J I ill of JNIoncrieffe, and, on emerging, have a beautiful view of theapproacii to I'lmin (li'J miles), (^Hotels: I'oyal George, Salutation, Star), situated on the right bank of the river Tay, with a population of about '-'7,000. On the norlli and south of the plain surrounding- the town, are two tracts of meadow land of considerable extent, called respectively the Aocf/i and South Inch, connected by the old bridge of ten arches, which crosses tlie Tay between them. I'erth was considered the capital of Scotland until the reign ot James I., who was assassinated here. It is sup- posed to have been originally built by the llomans under Agricola. The principal buildings and ])ublic monuments are: — the Coiiuti/ Hall, built on the site of Gowrie Ifouse, where the conspirators who de- vised the '" Gowrie Plot" as- sembled; the building erected in 18'23, in honour of Mr. Marshall, the tlien Provost of Pertli, and containing, on the ground floor, the Public Library, and above it, the -Museum of the Literary and Antiijuarian Society; the Acade- my; the Free-AIasons' Hall, &;c. The Queen inaugurated, in 1B6-1-, the statue erected in memory of the late Prince Consort. The suburbs of Perth afford many agreeable excursions. 'I'he views from INIoncrieffe l^lill, on the right bank of the Tay, and Kinnoull Hill, on the left bank, are par- ticularly fine. Visits may be con- veniently made to Dupplin Castle, the Bridge of Earn, i'itcaithly Wells, and the Pii/uceo/.VcuHc, the seat of Lord ALinsfield (2.i miles), built on the site of the ancient palace of the Kings of Scotland, and where are preserved, amongst other curiosities, the bed of .James \'I. (James L of England), another bed, covered with red velvet, reputed to have been em- broidered by Mary, Queen of Scots, while confined in Locli Leven Castle, the Peauvais tapes- try, and several valuable pictures, 6<;c. The great gallery, about loO ft. long, occupies the site of the hall where the sovereigns were crowned, seated on the stone brougiit from Duiifttifl'nage, and now in Westminster Abbey. Route 23. PERTH TO IXVERN'ESS. lit miles. 2nd clafs. Fare>,ist class, 21s.,- 18»-. ; '3rd class, IS.i. ^T a distance of 2 miles, near the confluence of the Almond and the Ta}-, we leave, on the left, the ))ahice of Scone, and, crossing the road that leads to Dunkeld, see on the opposite side of the river Oliier Castle. Viissins; Stanley J unction (7 ^miles') we reach Dunkkld (lof miles), {Hotels: Athol, Birnam), a town of about 1500 inhabitants, situated on the left bank of the Tay, in the midst of a valley completely sur- rounded by mountains of consider- able height, the sides of which are clothed from base to summit with woods. Consi)icuous amongst tliem we notice, on the west, Craigieve- tian, and, on the north, Craigie- b.irns. Duuki'lil contains the ruins of aGotliic cathedral, whose choir, having been restored by the liber- ality of the late Duke" of Atholl, is now converted into a parish church. In the chancel is a stone figure of a knight in armour, sup- posed to be tlie elligy of the no- 92 Route 23.— PERTH TO INVERNESS. SCOTLAND. torious Earl of Bucliaii, natural son of Robert 11., surnamed tlie " wo//'o/.Ba(J(;»of/i," who burnt the cathedral of ]'21gin. A short distance off, on tlie same bank of tlie Tay, is tlie ancient palace of the Dukes of Atholl. A modern structure was commenced by a fomier duke, but since his death, in 1830, no further progress has been made towards its comple- tion. Tlie spacious grounds sur- rounding the palace abound in rural attractions of every descrip- tion. Guides are in attendance to escort visitors to the various scenes of interest, at a charge of 2.y. 6d. for each person, or Is. each when tlie party exceeds two persons. About 1 mile from Uunkeld is the Hermitage, called also Ossian^s Hall, overlooking the river liraan, and commanding a beautiful view of the cascade formed by the river at this point. The walls and ceil- ing of this grotto are covered with mirrors, which reflect the fall many hundred times over. Farther up the stream we come to Ossian's Core, and above it another cascade of about 50 ft. high, where the Braan, rushing beneath llumhlhig Bridge, precipitates itself in several distinct falls. At PiV/oc/i)i/(28| miles) we see Fuskallij House ne&r the confluence of the Tummel and the Garry, and reach KiUiecraiikie (o'ij miles), in whose famous Pass, in 1689, Gra- ham of Claverhouse was shot by a concealed assassin, after gaining a victory over the royalists. We presently arrive at Bluir Atholl (35 J miles), at a distance of 3 miles from which ai'e the Falls of Bruar, mentioned by Burns in a poem addressed to the Duke of Atholl, petitioning for the im- provement of the scene by planta- tions, which have since been made in accordance vi-ith the poet's re- quest. About 1 mile from Dal- whinnie (SSj miles) is Loch Ericht, 20 miles in length, and 1 mile wide, to the north of which we observe a mountain named Benalder, In one of its caves Prince Charles Edvi-ard concealed himself for some time after the disastrous battle of Culloden. ^\'e next reach Kingus- sie(71if miles), and see, on the op- posite bank oftheSpey, the ruins of Ruth veil Barracks, destroyed by the Highlanders in 1746. Two miles distant is Belcille House, and near it an obelisk in memory of Mac- pberson, the translator of Ossian. At ylyiemo?-fi (83 i- miles ) passengers descend who desire to visit Cairn- gorm, or go by the mountains to Braemar. We find nothing worthy of mention until our arrival at For- res (119J miles), a town of 4000 inhabitants, containing several public buildings, and the remains of a castle once the residence of the Earls of Woray. Nairn (128 miles) is called the Brighton of the nortli. It has a good port and extensive baths. One mile west is Balblair Castle, near which the English army encamped after the battle of Culloden. Continuing on we reach Culloden (140 miles), near which place on Culloden Moor,was fouglitin 1745, the battle which put an end to the hopes of the Stuarts. Soon afterwards we reach Invernfss (144 miles), (Hotels : Caledonian, Radwaii^ Union'), the ca]iital of the county, containing about 13,000 inhabi- tants, and situated on both banks of the Ness, close to Moray and Beauly Firths and the Great Glen of Scotland. Inverness is a well- built town, and is generally con- sidered the capital of the High- lands. It contains several public buildings, amongst which are the Court House, the County Rooms, and the New Jail, which are built on the site 'of the ancient castle.. Near the Town Hall the tourist SCOTLAND. Route 23.— PERTH TO IXVLRXE-bS. 93 will remark an antinue cross, at the foot of wliicii is llie Cluch-nu- Cudden, or " tub stoiK',"on wliicli women used to stand for tlie pur- pose of liilinc: tlieir |)ails in tlie river, by wiiicli it was placed. At the mouth of tlie Ness are the re- mains of a fort built by Oliver Cromwell, and dismantled after the Restoration. From C'tistle Ildl we see, on the soutii west, tlie dome of Mealjounonie towering^ above the rest of the mountains which surround Loch Ness ; on the west llie hills of SlfutliCiimni and Strath^lass ; on the north, the hufje form of Beti Wyiis in Uoss-sliire ; on the east the Firth of Moniii is si'en losinj^ itself in the sea, and on a clear day wc can see the lulls in the counties of Sutlierland, Caithness, and Banff. Several intcrestiiisj excursions can be made in the neighbourhood, li miles to the west are the basin and entrance of the Caledonian C!anal, and 19i miles to the south west are the FalU nf Fnqers. (See Route eo.) INVERNESS. Route 24. TERTII TO ABERDEEN. 90 miles ; fares hi/ ordinary trains, 1st class, 15s. ; 2d', lis. 3d. ; 3d, 8s. ,T a distance of 2 miles from Perth, near the confluence of the Tay and the Almond, we leave, on the right, the ancient palace of Same, where, in earl^- times the kings of Scotland were crowned, and passing Luncartij (■i^ miles), wo arrive at Stanlei/ junction (7J miles), where a branch line leads to Dunheld. Near Stanley the tourist will see, on the right, a fall of the river Tay, called dtmpsie Lin7i. Pro- ceeding on our way we observe, near Caro^i7/(lli miles), the ruins of Kinctaven Castle, captured by ^\'allace, and sliortly afterwards reach Coupar An^us (15} miles), {Strathmnre Arjns Hotel), where we find the ruins of a monastery of Malcolm IV. Here, a few years ago, an almanack was discovered in Arabic figures, and dated 1482. (From Coupar Angus there is a branch line ofo miles to Blairgow- rie). I'assing Meigle (21] miles) where, in the churchyard, are some curious carved stones in me- mory of Vanora, the wife of King Arthur, we reach CHamis (262- 9i Route 24.— PERTH TO ABERDEEN. SCOTLAND. miles). Here is a venerable castle, in which jMalcolm II. ■was assas- sinated in 1034. 1 ts walls are in some parts 15 feet thick, and a staircase of 143 steps leads to the summit of a lofty tower, from which an extensive view can he obtained. Several relics are here to be seen, comprising- numerous pic- tures and portraits, and, amongst other treasures, the sword and coat of mail of Macbeth, thane of Glamis. In 1537 the young and lovely Countess of Glamis was publicly burnt at Edinburgh on a charge of sorcer3^ We next arrive at Forfar (32^ miles), the capital of the county oi Angus, a manufacturing town; population, 9300 ; situated near a small lake in the vale of Strath- more. Passing Auldbar Road (S7^ miles), on the left of which is the hill of Guthrie, where are the re- mains of a Koman encampment, we cross Lunan Hater, and enter a deep cutting, on emerging from which we see, on the left, Guthrie Castle, and reach Guthrie Junction (39^ miles), and passing Farnell Road (44| miles), near which, on the left, is Kinnaird Castle, we reach the Bridge of Dun (48 miles). At Dubton (oOj miles) is a line to Montrose (3 miles), a sea- port town; population, 14,560. Joseph Hume was born liere, and a monument is erected to his me- mory in High-street. Passing Drumlithie {66h miles), and Stone- haven (73i miles), where are the rviins of Dunottar Castle, on the summit of an isolated crag, called Fowlsheugh, or " Bird's Rock," from the number of sea-gulls whicli build their nests in its cavities, and Cove (85 miles), we round the eastern extremity of the Grampian Hills, and crossing, the Dee, reacli Aberdekn. (^Hotels: Douglas, Royal, Queen's) ; population esti- mated in 1870 at 82,000. Aber- deen is the northern capital of Scotland, and is called "the gra- nite city." It is on the left bank of the Dee. It has become a con- siderable seaport, and sends out a magnificent fleet of ships, called " Aberdeen clippers." it has ex- tensive cotton, woollen, and linen factories, a spacious harbour, and excellent docks, nearly a million pounds sterling having been ex- pended upon them. The principal street is Union-street, which is more than a mile in length, and is one of the finest in Scotland. ]5road-street, in which Marischal College, founded in 1593, is situ- ated, contains a house said to have been the residence of Lord Byron for some years during his boyhood. The Town House, in Castle-street, adjoining Union- street, is a remarkably handsome building. In the same street the tourist will see The Cross, built in 1686, and ornamented with me- dallion portraits of the kings of Scotland, from James I. to James VII. About 1^ miles from Aber- deen lies Old ylherdeen, containing nothing of interest except King's College, founded in 1494, and the ancient cathedral of St. Malachar. About a mile from Old Aberdeen is the old Brig of Balgownie, said to have been constructed in the reign of Eobert 1., and consist- ing of a single arch. It is men- tioned in Lord Byron's " Don Juan." "As • Auld Lang Syne' brings Scot- land, one and all, Scotch plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams. The Dee, the Don, Balgouuie's brig's black wall. All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams Of what I then dreamt, clothed in their own pall, Like Banquo's offspring ; floating past me seems SCOrt.ANI). Route »i.— PKIiTn TO ABKUUl.ES. 93 by tlio My childhood in this thildishncss of mine : I cure not — 'tis a glimpse of * Auld Lung Syne.'" _ EXCURSION FROM ABEHDEEN TO BALMOnAI, nV BALLATEK. I:AVIXG Aberdeen Lv railway we pass, for the greater part of thi" way to Ballater, close Dee. At Banchory (17 miles), the Battle of Corrichie was fought in 1562, in tlie presence of Queen Mary. Xear Lumphanan ('27 miles) Macbeth is said to have been buried beneath one of the numerous cairns to be found in the vicinity. After leavini^ Aboyne (o-j miles) we see Loch Kiniwrd, on one of the islands in which is a ruined castle, supjiosed to have belonged to Malcolm Can- more. We now reach Ballaler('i:S}j miles), {Hotel: Invercauld Anns), the terminus of the railway, a place much resorted to by visitors for its mineral waters and tin- purity of its air. At the farm- house of Ballatrich, on the oppo- site bank of the Dee, Byron lived in his early youth. " Here was the place where Byron's mother used to retire in the summer months from Aberdeen with her boy. The valley is divided by a wild brook hidden among green alders, and its slojjes arc hung with the native birch and a few oaks. At the upper end is a farm-house, but it is new; and tin' fanner, to sliow me the house in wliicli Byron lived, took me to his farm-yard. The house ^Irs. Byron inhabited is now a barn or sort of hay-loft, in his yard ; but the bed in which Byron used to lie is still there. It is one of the deal cupboard sort of beds, common in higldand huts. Tlie farmer said many people came to see the plac<>, and several had tried to ])uy the bed from him, but that lie should think it (piite a shame to sell it." — llouitt. Locltna'^ai-, tin.' summit of which is 12 miles from JJallater, is fre- (|uently ascended by tourists. By- ron thus speaks of tlie scenery of tiie neighbourhood : — " Years have rolled on, Loeh-na-gur, sinee I left you, Years must ehipse ere I tread you uguin ; Natare of verdnre and flowers has be- reft yon. Yet still are you dearer than Albion's plain. England! thy beauties are tame and domestic To one who has roved o'er the moun- tains afar: Oh for the crau's that are wild and ma- jestic 1 The steep frowning glories of dark Loch-ua-gar." From Ballater we jn-oceed to Balmoral Castle (9 miles) bj' coach. The route is through the " Pass of Ballater," and for a greater jjnrt of the distanci' is tlirough a clianuing tract of coun- try. Aberjxeldie Castle, a residence of the Prince of \\'ales, formerly inliahited by tlie Duchess of Kent, is 7 miles from Ballater. Soon after passing the castle we see the sj)ire of Craithie Free Kirk, and an obelisk to tlie memory of the late Prince Consort. A'ear the road, on tlie right, is the Parish Church of Craithie, where the Queen and her family frequently attend church during their residence at Balmoral. A private bridge crosses the Dee to IJalsioral Castle, wliicli is situated below the hill of Craig-na-Gowan. Tiie property was purchased by Prince Albert from tiie Karl of Fife. It is a castellated mansion, closely re- sembling the ancient baronial castles of Scotland. It is built of a 96 Route '24.— PERTH TO ABERDEEN. SCOTLAND. light coloured granite, and is said to have been planned by the Prince Consort. It is furnished in a style of simple comfort rather than mag- nificence. In the entrance hall is a statue of Prince iVlbert. The estate contains 10,000 acres, and cost £31,500. Admission to view the interior may be easily ob- tained, in the absence of the Royal Family. Route 25. PERTH TO DUXDEE. 21i miles ; fares, 1st class, 3s. 6d. ; '2nd, 2s. 6d.; 3id, Is. '6d. .^^'^EAVING Perth from i=H '^'-ir^i ^i,g Pi-inces Street Sta- tion, we cross the river Tay, and passing Kin- noull Hill, keep along the left bank of tlie Firth ot Taj' until we reacli Kvijauns (3 miles). On tlie left we see the Castle with its beauti- ful grounds, and on the other side of the river the ruins of Elcho Castle. We next pass Glencarse (7 miles), and Errol (11 miles), situated in the midst of the fertile tract of country known as tlie Carse of Gowrie. About 10 miles on tlie left are Megginch Castle and Fhigask Castle, and we see on the same side Dinisinane Hill, on which once stood the castle immor- talized in " JMacbeth." At a little distance to the north of Inch tare (132 miles) is Rossie Priory^ the seat of Lord Kinnaird. Here may be seen a fine collection of pic- tures. In the background the view is bounded by the Skllaiv Hills. Near Longfurgaii (lo.j miles) we observe on the left Castle Huntleii, situated on a lofty eminence, and on the right the re- mains of Droii afterwards we Chapel. Shortly pass Invergoicrie (17J miles), and see the ruins of Invergowrie Church, and, at some distance on the left. Gray House, Camperdown House, and the ruins o{ Naughlon Castle. A short dis- tance from Gray House is a cu- rious church called Fowlis Easter Church. Dundee (21i miles). (Hotels: Roiial, British.) Population esti- mated in 1870 at 117,000. This town is considered the third in Scotland in respect of population, and second in regard to its manu- facturing industry, and the exten- sive import and export trade car- ried on with all parts of the world. Its linen trade is the largest in the United Kingdom. Independently of its tidal harbours, its wet docks cover an area of upwards of 33 acres. In addition to these are spacious dry docks, wharves, and ship-building yards, besides nu- merous large factories and iron- works. At the north end of the harbour stands the Royal Arch, erected as a memorial of the visit paid by the Queen in 1844. Amongst the public buildings are the Royal Exchange, the Town Hall, the Court House, the Albert Institute, and the Gjonnasium. In the Nethergate the tourist will find St. i\lary's Churcli witli its venerable tower rising to a height of 156 ft. The monastery of which this tower formed a part is said to have been erected by the Earl of Huntington, brother of William I. of Scotland, surnamed " The Lion," as a thank-offering for liis providential escape fi-om shipwreck when on his way home from the Crusades. Dudhope Castle, in which the constables of the borough formerly resided, is now converted into a barrack : near it is a handsome building called the Royal Infirmary. Roth are si- tuated on the slope of Dundee Law, a hill rising upwards of 530 SCOTLAND. Route 25.— PERTH TO DUNDEE. t'7 feet from tlie summit of which we see, towards tlie north and west, the Sidlaw Mountains, and, at a [greater distance, the heiLclits of the Grampians; •wliilo on tlic south and east we look over the mouth of tlio lay, the town of St. Andrew's, in Fifeshire, and the shores of the German Ocean. In the neiglibourliood we see, on the north-east, B.uter I'ark, contain- surroundinfj the town. Here it is said lliat Wishart the reformer usL'd to preach during the conti- nuance of the plague which fell ui)on Dundee in 1.5 l-t. Dundee acijuired the title of the " Second Geneva," from its zeal in the cause of the Protestant faitli. It was the first of all the towns of Scotland to renounce the Koman Catholic relii'ion. AUBorsroRO ing about 38 acres, thrown open to the inhabitants as a promenade and place of amusement through the liberality of Sir David Bax- ter, whose statue is erected in tl»e centre ; and, about a mile beyond, the cemetery, in which we ob- serve several tasteful monuments. JVear Baxter Park stands Morgan's Hospital, a free school for poor boys who are natives of Forfar- shire, resembling in its scheme Ileriot's Ilospita! at Edinbur^li. Cowgate Port is the solitary rem- nant of the ancient walls once Route 26. EDINBURGH TO MELROSE, ABBOTSFORD, AXD DRYBURGH. 'HIS excursion may be As? '^iii to have been a sijuare l.jO ft. di'cp. The tracery and carvings, cut in stone, of singular excellence, are scarcely sur[)assed by any in Eng- land. The tower, the highest ac- cessible point of the remaining edifice, is 84 ft. high. The east winilow has been ])articularly ad- mired, and is _of unjiaralli'lfd beauty and elegance. J he south window lacks the elegance of the eastern. The height of the former is 57 ft., and tlie breadth ','8 ft._ The roof of the chancel, part of which remains, was supported by a cluster of jjillarS, the pedestals and capitals being elegantly orna- mented with wreaths of flowers and foliage. Under the east win- dow stood the high altar, beneath wliich Alexander II. was buried. A large marble slab is pointed out as the monarch's tomb. Here also, according to the best historians, was deposited the heart of the great king, Robert Bruce, after an unsuccessful attempt to carry it to the Holy Land. Many of the great family of Douglas were bu- ried in this church ; among them AVilliam Douglas, the Knight of Liddesdale, called The Floicer of Chiviiliy, and \\ illiam, the first Earl, aiul James, the second Earl of Douglas. The abbey and the lands con- nected with it are the property of the Duke of Buccleuch and QueensbeiTV, who has expended considerable sums of money in preventing it from falling into ruin. Fine views of the abbey may be obtained from the church- yard. Abbotsford, the elegant mansion of tin- late Sir ^V alter Scott, is three miles west of .Mel- rose. The house and grounds were the creation of the immortal pro- jirietor, and thousands of the trees were planted by his own hands. In his diarv, Sir Walter says, " ^ly heart clings to the place I have created ; there is scarce a tree on it that does not owe its being to me." Before it became, in 1811, the property of Sir Walter, the site of the house and grounds of Abbotsford formed a small farm known as Cui-tleii Hole. The new name was the invention of the fioet, who loved thus to connect limself with the days when .Mel- rose abbots passed over the fords of the Tweed. On this spot, a sloping bank overhanging the river, with the Selkirk hills be- hind, he built at first a small villa, now the western wing of the castle. Afterwards, as bis fortune increased, he added the remaining portions of the building, on no uniform plan, but with a desire of combining in it some of the features (and even actual remains) of those ancient works of Scottish architec- ture which he most venerated. The result is that singularly pic- turesque and irregular pile, which has been aptly characterised as " a romance in stone and lime." The present proprietor is Mr. Hops Scott, who married the grand- daughter of Sir Walter. A con- siderable addition has recently been made to the building. But the interior is far more interesting than the exterior. The jiorch, copied from that of the old palace at Lin- lithgow, is finely groined, and stags' horns are nailed up in it. The hall is filled with massive armour of all descriptions, and other memorials of ancient times. Passing through the hall we enter a narrow, arched room, extending quite across the building, filled 100 Boute ^6— EDINBURGH TO MELROSE. Scotland. with all kinds of small armour. This apartment communicates with the dining-room on one side, and with the drawing-room on the other. The dining-room is very handsome, with a roof of carved oak, containing some pictures, the most curious being that of the head of Queen Mary in a charger, painted by Amias Canrood the day after her execution. The drawing-room is very lofty, and staircase leading to Sir Walter's bedroom. In a small closet out of tlie study, under a glass case, are the clothes worn by Sir Walter immediately^ previous to his de- cease. The charge for a carriage with one horse, direct from Melrose to Dryburgh and back, is 6s. The most direct way is by Newtown St. Boswell's and the ferry, the distance being 4 miles. The charge DRVBUnCII ABBEY, is furnished with ebony, curious cabinets, &c. The library, the largest apartment in the house, has a roof finely carved after models from Melrose and Roslin. It contains 20,000 volumes of rare and valuable books. Beyond the library is the study, or snnctuia sanctorum, from which emanated those splendid efforts of genius that command tlie admiration of mankind. It contains a small writing-table, and an armchair covered with leather. A small gallery runs nearly round the room, opening upon a private for showing the ruins is Is. for a party not exceeding three ; above three, 4d. each. Dryburgh Abbey stands on a richly wooded peninsula, almost surrounded by the Tweed. No- thing remains of it except its walls, which are carefully preserved. It was founded by Hugh de Mor- ville about 1150. It was burned by the English army under Ed- ward II. in 1322, and repaired by Robert Bruce. The abbey is the burial-place of the fiimily of Haly- burton of Newmains, the ancient proprietors of Dryburgh, Sir SCOTLAND. Route Q6.— EDINBURGH TO MKI.ROSE. 101 Walter Scott claimed the right of sepulture here, being their direct descendant. The tomb of Sir Wal- ter is in St. .Mary's aisle, in the left transept of the cross, and close to the place where was formerly the high altar. The mansion-house of Dryburgh is in the immediate vicinity of the abbey. Route 27. EDINBURGH TO BERWICK- OX-TWEED. 57 J miles; 1st diss, lis. 5(i.; 2nd class, 8s. iid. ; 3rd class, 6s. 6d. EAVING Edinbuhcii by the Waverley station we catch a glimpse of lloliirood on the right, and reach Fortubello (3 miles), a favourite bathing-jtlace. (Mere a branch line goes off to Musselbui-gh, miles from the junction, also a fashionable bath- ing-place, possessing an extensive range of sands called iJnkf, where horse-races and other sports are carried on. It contains a statue in memory of Dr. Moir, the poet. Here the Covenanters assembled in 1638 to meet the ^larquis of Hamilton, who repi'esented Charles I. ; and here Cromwell encamped previous to his retreat to Dunbar, ■where he afterwards gained a de- cisive victory. Near Alusselburgh is Pinkie House, the ri^sidence of Sir Archibald Hope, formerly a seat of the Abbot of Dunfermline. ) We next pass Inveuesk (6J- miles), near which is the battle- field of Pinlde, where the Scots were defeated by the English in 1547 ; Carberry Hill, where Queen Mary gave herself up to the rebels in 1567; and arrive at Priston Pans (10 miles), or Priestslown, formerly in the possession of the monks of Newbattle, and deriving its name from the pans in whicu the priests used to manufacture salt. Here was fouglit, in 1745, the famous battle in which Prince Charles Edward defeated Sir John Cope. Near the station, on the right, are the remains of Bankton House, once the residence of Colo- nel Gardiner, who fell in that battle. On the left is Preston Tower, an ancient stronghold of the Earls of Home. (There is a branch line, from Preston Pans, leading, on the right, to Tranent, a mining village. Here is an educational establish- ment called Stiel's Hospital, con- ducted on the same principle as Heriot's Hospital.) We now reach Longniddry (13i^ miles), and see, on the right. Sea- ton House, built on the site of the ancient royal palace, of which the ruins of tiie chapel are the sole remains, and on the left, near the Eirth /;ri(7oe (12f miles), is Borth- irick Castle. We then cross Tyne IVatcr, near Tipiehead (16 miles), and pass, on the riglit, the eastern extremity of the MoorJ'ool Hills. Our way now lies for a consider- able distance by the side of the Gala M'ater. We pass Heriot (19^ miles), and Fountainliall (22^ miles), and reach Stow (36f miles). This was once the resi- dence of the Bishops of St. An- drew. Some distance on the left is Thirlestane Castle. Passing Bowland (29f miles), we arrive soon afterwards at Galashiels (Sjj miles), whei"e a considerable trade is carried on in woollens. (There is a branch from hence to «S'e/An/c (6;^ miles). We are now in close proximity to Abboj sford. We next pass Melrose, and ob- serve the ruins of its celebrated Abbey on the left. (See Route 26.) The next station is St. Boswell's (40^ miles), the junc- tion for Kelso, Dunse, and Jed- burgh. (Tlie distance to Kelso is Hi miles. Population, 4,500. It is beautifully situated on the Tweed, opposite the junction of tlie Teviot. Its cljief ornament is the Abbey, now in ruins. It was founded" by David I. in 1128. The arcliitecture is Saxon, with a mixture of Gothic ; the central tower is 90 feet high. At Rox- burgh SiATioN, 8^ miles from St. Boswell's, on the way to Kelso, a branch road extends to Jedburgh, which is 7| miles from the junction. This town has a population of about 5,500. It was one of the SCOTLAND. Route ^:a.— EDI XBURG 11 TO CARLISLE. 103 most noted of tlio bonlr-r towns. There are no remains ot" its castli-, TiiK AnBEv, a large and once maj^niiicent structure, in tlie form of a cross, was founded by David I. Part of it lias been Htted up as a Parish Church. \n the lower part of the town is shown a man- sion, where Queen JMary was de- tained by illness for several weeks ; lier illness havin;j^ been tin- conse- quence of her ride on horseback from JedburLjh to IIormitao;e Castle IB miles distant, and back on the s.ame day. She went to visit JJothwell, who was ill.) Leaving' lielses (45| miles), we reach Has- sendean or Iluzeldeun (485 niiles), renowned by the old song of "Jock o' Ilazeldean." On the left is Miulo Castle, and the hill calli'd Rubers Law. Shortly after passing Hawick (.5;> miles), cele- brated for its woollen manufac- tures, we see, on the right, Brauk- lonte Castle, mentioned in tin- " Lay of the Last Minstrel." " Niiie-and-twenty kiiii;hts of fame Huni;tlieir.-iliifl(lsiii UiMiiksome Hull." At Stobs ('>'>l miles), we pass, on the left, Stobs Castl-, and proceed to Riccarton .liiiiction (66 miles), where the Border Counties Ilail- way turns oft" to the left for New- castle. Hero we enter Liddesdale, and soon afterwards pass on the ri^lit, near Steele Road (69^ miles), Jfeniiilai^e Castle, the property of the Duke of JJuccleuch. Queen jMary paid a visit to the Earl of IJotlnvell when he was owner of this castle. Passing .Yeic Castleton (7i| miles), we enter England at J\erslw])e Foot {77} miles). Pass- ing some unimportant stations, we jom the Carlisle and Dumfries llailway near Lorigtown (88^- niiles), and, 9} miles further, arrive at Carlisle. (See Route i?9). ENGLAND. ROUTES. Route Fage 29. Carlisle to Livedpool 1C6 30. LiVEETOOL TO Man- chester .... 108 31. Liverpool to London 109 32. Holyhead to London, BY Chester . . . 110 33. Southampton to Lon- don 120 34. London to Windsor and Stoke Pogis . 135 35. London to Oxford, Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick, and Ke- nilmortii .... 1-15 36. London to York, New- castle - ON - Tyne, Berwick - on -Tweed (RoutetoEdinburgh) 1C2 37. London to Carlisle AND Glasgow . . 168 38. London 10 Bristol AND SouiH Wat.es . . 169 39. Bristol to Chepstow AND Gloucester . 174 Eoute Page 40. London to Salisbury, Exeter, Plymouth, Falmouth and Land's End . . . 180' 41. London to Leicester, Derby', Leeds, and Bradford .... 191 London to Matlock, RowsLEY (for Chats- worth) AND Buxton 201 The Lake District . 209- 44. London to Cambridge, Ely', Norwich, and Yarmouth . . . 220 London to Harwich ( Route to Rotter- dam) 230 London to Canterbury and Dover ... 231 London to Folkestone 246 London to St. Leo- nards AND Hastings 250 49. London to Brighton AND Newhaven . . 260 42 43 45 46. 4~. 48. ^NGLAND (includ- ing- the Princijiality of \\ ales), the south- ern and most con- siderable division of Great Britain, is l)ounded on the north by Scotland, on the soutli by the English Channel, on the east by the German Ocean, and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean and tlie Irish Sea (St. George's Channel). It extends 425 miles from Berwick-on-Tweed to the Land's End, and varies in breadth from 62 to 360 miles, comprising an area of 58,320 square miles. The principal openings on the east are the Humber, the Wash, and the estuary of the Thames ; on the west, the Bristol Cliannel, Swan- sea and Carmarthen Bays, Milford Bay, Bride's Bay, Cardigan Bay, and St. George's Channel, witli tlie estuaries of the Dee, Mersey, Morecombe Bay, and the Solway Firth ; on the south, Southampton Water, Torbay, Plymouth Sound, Falmouth Harbour, and Mount's Bay. Capes : Flamborough Head, Spurn Point, the Naze, Foul- ENGLAND. ROUTES. 105 ness, North and Soutli Forelands, Beacliy Head, IJuiij,'eness, tin? Needles, I'ortJand I'oiiU, Lizard Point, Land's End, \\'onn'.s Head, St. David's Head, Cireat Urine's Head, and St. liecs Head. Is- Iniids: Holy Island, Lundy, Man, Shepi)ey, Scilly Isles, W alney, and \\'i<(lit. It is divided into 52 Counties, of which U) belons^ to Enj^Iand proper, viz. : Bedford, Berks, Bucks, C'ambrid':^e, Ches- ter, Cornwall, Cuniherhmd, Der- by, Devon, Dorset, Durham, losses, Gloucester, Hants, Here- ford, Hertford, Huntingdon, Kent, Lancaster, Leicester, Lincoln, Middlesex, Monmouth, Norfolk, Northani])ton, Nortliumberland, Nottingham, Oxford, Kullaiid, Saloii, Somerset, Stallbrd, Sufl'olk, Surrey, Sussex, \Varwick, West- moreland, \\ ilts, \\oriester, and York. The last is divided into the North, East, and \N'est Bid- ings. The 12 Counties of \\ ales are Anglesey, Brecknock, Caer- marthcn, Caernarvon, Denby, Flint, Glamorq;an, Alerioneth, IMontgomery, l*embroke, and Radnor. Theii»pect of thecouiitrii is delightful, presenting all that beautiful variety which is to be found in the most extensive tracts of the globe. Though jiossessing dreary scenes, lofty mountains, craggy rocks, bleak barren moors, and wild uncultivated heaths ; few countries have a smaller pro- jiortion of land absolutely sterile and incapable of cultivation. The richest parts, generally speaking, are the midland and southern. Towards the nortli, it jiartakcs, to a great degree, of tlie barrenness of the neighbouring portion of Scotland. The east coast is, in many parts, sandy and marshy. A range of rugged and elevated land extends from the borders of Scotland to the heart of England, forming a natural division between the east and west sides of the kingdom. Cornwall is also a rough, hilly tract ; and some of the a,571 ft., Cader Idris ("Arthur's Seat") 2,<)00 ft., and Plinlimmon, 2,500 ft. The Devonian range includes the hills of Devon, Cornwall, and part of Somersetshire ; none are of great elevation. Of tlu? rivers, the principal are the Thames, Severn, iNledway, Trent, Ouse, Tyne, Tees, AVear, ^Mersey, Dee, Avon, F>den, Derwent, W ye, and Conway. In connection with many of these, is a system of canal navigation, by which, to- gether with the network of rail- ways, tr;iffic is carried on from one ])art of the country to another. The most remarkable lakes are ^^ in(lermere,Ullswater, Derwent- water, with many others, in Cum- berland and Westmoreland for the most part. Windermere, the Iarg( st,onIy extends over about 3 square miles; but, like the others, it is distinguished for the beautiful scenery withwhich it issurrounded. 106 Route 29.— CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL. England. The cUmateoi Eng-land is liuniid but healthy. Fi-om the insulai- position of the country, it is liable to sudden and frequent changes, and to g-reat variations of dryness and moisture. The ■population of England and Wales was estimated in 1869, at 21,869,607, not including- soldiers and sailors on forei.gn service. Route 29. CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL. (By Preston.) ±27 miles; 1st class, 26s. 6d.; 2nd, 18s. 6d.; 3rd, 10s. 6d. .,^^^ A R LI SEE {Hotels: Yn4ii Coiui/t/, Bush). Popu- M lation;^ 29,417. j^'^ Carlisle is a plea- sant old town, placed on rising- ground, nearly surrounded by three small rivers— the Caldew, the Petrel, and the Eden, which liere mingle their waters. Its history as a border fortress, a place of refuge and ]n-otection to the inhabitants of tlie surrounding country, in the wars between Eng- land and Scotland, is similar in character to that of Berwick-on- Tweed; and owing to the same cause, it much declined in im- portance after the union of the two kingdoms. Jlary Queen of Scots stopped here on her flight from Scotland ; the place was sur- rendered to Chai-les Stuart the Pretender, who was proclaimed king here, and many persons were executed in consequence, on the city being retaken by the Duke of Cumberland. The Cathedral a.nd Castle are both ancient, and por- tions of the latter are in perfect preservation. From their elevated position, tliey can be seen from a distance in all directions, and give an aspect to the town which is long remembered even if briefly viewed. Steamboats run between this place and Liverpool, Isle of IMan, Dublin, and Belfast. The town gives the title of earl to the descendants of "Belted Will" Howard, of Scott's " Lay of the Last Minstrel," a rough border wai-rior, whose name and exploits are still well remembered in the district. Archdeacon Paley, the author of the " Principles of Mo- ral and Political Philosophy," the " Evidences of Christianity," and " A^itural Theology," was a na- tive of the town, and is buried in tlie cathedral. Leaving Carlisle we pass Pen- rith (175 niiles), an ancient mar- ket town, willi the ruins of a castle. (On the left, 6 miles dis- tant, is a Druidical circle, 350 yards in circumference, formed of 67 stones, some of them 10 ft. high, called " Long IMeg and her daughters"). On the left, near Clifton Bloor (22 miles), we see Brougham Hall, the residence of the late Lord Brougliam. In 1745 there was a skirmisli at Clifton jMoor between the forces under tlie Duke of Cumberland and those of the Pretender. The in- cident is mentioned in Sir Walter Scott's " Waverley." Passing on by several unimportant places we reacli Kendal Junction (50 miles), where there is a branch to Kendal and Windermere. The next place of interest is Lancas- ter (69 miles), (Hotels: King's Arnn, Roijiil Oak.) Population, 14,487. This ancient town is situated on the Lune, from whicli it derives its name. Although, nominalh', the chief town of the countj^, it is, of course, insignifi- cant in comparison with many others in it. It was a Roman sta- LNCLAM,. llo,He29.-CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOI.. 107 tion j;ivcn by Edwaril III. to liis son, John of CJaunt, ancestor ol' the Lancaster line of the Phiu- tanjenets ; it formed i)art of the I)alatiiiate into which his duchy was erected, and has ever since conferred a title only on members of the Royal family. 'J lie town suffered much in tlie wars of tin; Roses. It is built upon an emi- nence, of which the castle crowns the summit, and gives to it a very picturesque appearance. From the fact of the building-, when it ceased to be needed as a jilace of defence, liaving been converted into a jail for the county, it has been kept in complete repair, and, with the exception of the larLjo square an- cient keep, nearly rebuilt. Jk'side the keep, tliere remain King John's Gate, John of Gaunt 's lower, and other towers. '1 he parish clnnxh of St. Mari) has .some stained gla.ss windows, ornamental brasses, and some specimens of oak car^-ing, said to have been brought from the abbey of Cockersand, at the dissolution. Owing to the silting up of tlie River Lune, upon which it is situated, a dock has been constructed, about 5 miles below the town, at Glasson, througli which a considerable foreign and coasting trade is done. There are also cotton and silk mills, iron foundries, and other branches of business. Dr. Whewell and I'ro- fessor Richard Owen, the great comparative anatomist, who is still living, were born here. The next town of importance on our route is Pukston (90 jnilea), (Hotels: Bull, Victoria); population, 8'2,985. Situated in a fertile country and in the midst of good scenery, this jtlace is one of the great seats of tlie cotton manu- facture, as well as of linen, for which, at an earlier period, it was more speciallj' reputed. It is an ancient place, having belonged to Earl Tostig, the brother of King Harold, before the ConqufSt, and was jirobahly a Roman station. It was jxirtly burnetl by the Scots under Robert 15ruce in 1323. It was occupied by tlie partisans of the Pretender, in ITl.^j, and very gallantl}', tliough in vain, defended by them; and again l)y the re- treating forces of tlie Pretender, in 17'-15. During tlie civil war it declared in favour of the king, but was taken by the Parliament- arians under Fairfax. Situated upon the River Ribble, it is a port, but its trade is chiefly coastwise. There are many public buildings and institutions, but all of modern origin, the j)arisli church itself having been recently rebuilt. Richard Arkwright was born here in 17,?'2, and commenced here some of his great inijirovements in the cotton manufacture. The express trains stop next at Wig AN (85 miles), (Hotels: Clarence, Victoria); population in 1861, 37,658. One of the great centres of the cotton trade. It has a town-hall, several schools, and otiier public institutions. The church of ,1// Saints was built be- fore the reign of Edward III., but the greater part has under- gone restoration. In the northern l)ait of the town there is a pillar erected to the memory of Sir T. Tyldesley, who fell in the battle of IVigati L«He, August 25, 1651, between the Roj'alists and the Parliamentary forces. (There is a branch from U'igan to Southport, situated on the estuary of tlie Rib- ])le, and called from its exciuisite climate, tlie '' English Montpe- lier.") From \\'igan we soon reach Newton Bridge, where we join the Liverpool and ^Manchester Railway. ( For the journey from this point to Liverpool, see Route 30). 108 Route 30.— LIVERPOOL TO MANCHESTER. England. Route 30. LIVERPOOL TO MAN- CHESTER, 31^ miles; lit class, 5s. 6d.; 2nd, 4s. ; 3nl, '2s. 7d. ■HE line from Liverpool to Manchester was opened on the 15th of Sept. 1830, and cost nearly £1,000,000. It is the first railway on wJiich locomotion through the agency of steam was attempted. It required a great effort of engineering- skill, and a considerable outlay of capital, to overcome the difficulty presented by the great morass, called Chut Moss, through wliich this railway passes. We leave Liverpool from the Lime Street Station, and, after passing two stations of no note, reach Huyton {5\ miles), a flou- risliing town, famed for its pot- teries, and for tlie manufacture of the movements of watches, and the tools employed in watch- making. The next place worth notice is St. Helen's Junction (12 miles), where there is a branch of two miles to St. Helen's, a town of about 19,000 inhabitants, cele- brated for its glass manufactures, the most considerable of which are carried on at the works of tlie Union Plate Glass Companii. At Newton (15| miles) are tlie great printing works of Messrs. M'Cor- quodale and Co. In 1648 the Highlanders were routed with great slaughter near Newton. (The Grand .Tunction Railway here joins the Liverpool and JMan- chester line). At Parkside (15j miles) a stone tablet marks the spot where JMr. Iluskisson, a much respected member of the House of Commons, was killed on the 15th Sept. 1830— the day of the opening of the line. The North Union Railway has here a branch to Wigan and Preston. At Bury Lane (20| miles) we be- gin to traverse Chat Moss. We soon afterwards arrive at Patei- CROFT (26^- miles), where we find Nasmyth Foundry, the largest in England. A short distance off is Worsley Hall, where there is a good collection of pictures, the most remarkable of which is one by Landseer, representing a party of falconers returned from the chase. We then reach Eccles, (2/5 miles), a pleasant village, situated on the banks of the Ir- well. Its ancient churcli belonged to the Abbey of Whalley, and has given its name (Ecclesia) to the parish. IManufectures of silk and cotton are carried on here. Pass- ing two more stations, we arrive at Manchester (31^ miles). (Ho- tels: Queens, Palatine, Albion.^ Population estimated in 1870 at 374,993. Manchester is the em- porium of tlie cotton trade of Great Britain, and the largest city, sup- ported by its special manufacture, in the world. It is connected with Salford by eight bridges over the River Irwell, an affluent of the ]\Iersey, witli which place it forms a parliamentary borough return- ing two members. In 1773 the entire population was only 22,481. With the exception of Preston, there are few places in the king- dom which can sliow such a rapid increase of population. Amongst tlie public buildings, the most important and largest are the Exchange, in the centre of the town, the grand hall of which is 185 ft. long, by 92 ft. wide, and of corresponding height; the Town Hall, an Ionic structure upon the model of tlie Erectheum at Athens, ENGLAND. RouU 30.— LI V ERPOOL TO MANCHESTER. 109 with central cupola, aftor Andro- nicus's Tower of tlie Winds; and tlie Com l-hchaii<;e, after tlio Temple of C'eris at Athens. TLe Assize Courts in tlie Gotliic style, were opened in 186i, and cost £80,000. I'lie Cathedralis a fine building', containing ciiaj)ols whicli are tlie burial-places of the Derby and other historic families, 'i'he Free Grammar School is very richly endowed. There are three public jiarks and a Botanical Garden. The majority of the population are dissenters, with numerous jilaces of worship. Most of the great pro^essive movements of the ao;c have tbund their ablest exponents and most energetic supporters — who are known as the .Manchester School of politicians — in this place. Route 31. LIVERPOOL TO LONDOX. 201% miles; isl class, 35s. ; 2nd class, 26s.; 3rd class, 16s. 9d. Wl^POOL (Hotels:* Washington, Adelphi, ]iaterloo. Queen's). Population estimated in 1870 at 607,567. The second city of the United Kingdom in population and commerce, which it has doubled with tolerable uni- formity in about every twentj' years during the present century. Few cities have better constructed Louses, or wider or handsomer streets, which is due to the expen- diture of vast sums on the improve- ment of the place by the corpora- tion. The property of this oody • A new hotel, on ti larce scale, con- nected with the North Western Rail- way station, is nearly completed. is reputed to be worth .£o,000,000 inde]iondent of an income of nearly lialf a-miilion derived from t)ie dock estate alone ; so that the as- sertion tJiat £.-5UO,(»00,000 have been spent within tlie last eighty- five years u])on town improve- ments is not so startling as it, at first sight, ajijiears. Liverpool is a municijial and parliamentary borough returning three members. Tlie trade of the place expanded greatly upon the decay of Chester, through the gradual filling up of the Doe, which made Liveri)ool the great depot of salt for export. The Dock area is estimated at nearly 300 acres, with quay ac- commodation about 17 miles in length. Birkenhead Dock alone, opened in 18(50, covers a space of I'JO acres, and cost £,?,000,000. The first floating dock in the United Kingdom was opened liere in 1718. Tlie jirincipal streets diverge from the point partly oc- cupied by St. John's Church and tJie railway station. The princi- pal public buildings are the Toun Hall, of which the chief feature is the grand staircase under the cu- pola, on the landing of which, stands a colossal statue of George Canning ; the Exchange buildings, which form three sides of the square in which the Town Hall stands , esteemed one of the best specimens of -Greek architecture in England, and one of the finest structures of modern times, de- voted exclusively to commercial purposes ; the Custom House, which is united with the Excise, Post, and other public offices in an Ionic pile called RevenueBuiUiings, built upon the site of the old dock, wliich was filled up for the pur- pose ; St. deorge's Hall, of the Corinthian order, ostensibly built for the Assize Courts, but at other times used for public meetings, concerts, &:c. i'here are also 110 Iloute 31. —LIVERPOOL TO LONDON. EXCLAND. several valuable literary establish- juents, such as the lioyal Inslhution, Brown's Museum and Library ; four Theatres, Zoological Gardens, five public Parks, ten jMarkets, and a great number of charitable and educational institutions. There are more than 30 churches belonging to the Establishment, besides nu- merous dissenting places of wor- ship. The oldest church is that of St. Niclwlas, the newest, a cijurch in the Byzantine style, erected by the Greek merchants residing in Liverpool, and consecrated in the beginning of the present year (1870) by the Archbishop of Syra and Tenos, who came to England for the purpose. Previous tothe establishment of railways the prin- cipal inland trade of Liverpool was carried on by canals communica- ting with various parts of the kingdom, and these are still remu- nerative undertakings. Leaving Liverpool from tlie Lime-street station we pass several stations of no importance, and ar- rive at Warrington (19^ miles), (Hotels: Lion, Fatten Arms). Popu- lation in 1861, 26,947. It is sit- uated on the ?>Iersey, and, during the spring tides, vessels of 150 tons can reach its quays. It was formerly a Roman station, and many anti([uarian relics have been discovered, from time to time, in the neighbourhood. Here, in 1648, after the battle of Preston, the roj^alist army halted to sur- render prisoners of war. Tlie chief sources of industry consist in the manufacture of cotton stuffs, glass, and pins. The first news- paper published in Lancashire was printed at Warrington ; and the first post office in the county was established here. In the neighbourhood is the celebrated Bridgeuater Canal, constructed by the illustrious Brindley at the ex- pense of the then Duke of Bridge- water. Leaving Warrington we pass Moore (22^ miles), crossing the Mersey, and the INIersey and Irwell canal, over a viaduct of 12 arches, Preston Brook (26 miles), where there is a junction between the Bridngth, in- cluding the arches on either side, which serve to cany the road to the suspending pillars, about one- third of a mile, and its width 28 ft. This achievement has been tlirown into the shade by the IjlUTANNfA 'J'uHriAK BillDGlC, by which the Chester and Holy- . head Kailway is carried across the strait, begun in 1816, and brought to completion by Robert Stephen- son in 18,30. The total length of the bridge is 18oj ft. including 230 ft. from the land on the Car- narvon side to the first pier, and the same on the Anglesey side. Besides these side piers it is sup- j)orted by a central tower, rising from a rock in the strait. The two tubes, one of which serves for the up, and the other for the down trains, are each 1,513 ft. long, made up of four S(>parate lengths, composed of riveted wrought-iron plates, from ^ to J of an inch in thickness. Tlie weight of each tube is about 5,000 tons, 'i'lieir height above the w.ater is lO-l ft. a littli> more than tliat of the Sus- pension Bridge. The tubes, when 112 Uontc 32.— HOLYHEAD TO LONDON. enoland. constructed, were floated on pon- toons, and raised to tlieir required fiositions by powerful hydraulic evers. The Britannia Bridge is said to have cost more than £600,000, and to have absorbed 11,400 tons of iron, 14,000,000 cubic ft. of limestone, and 450,000 cubic ft. of timber. Leaving Bangor, the train passes through a tunnel, and shortly af- terwards through two others at brief intervals. We proceed along the coast, and observe a small island, called Puffins' Island, from the numbers of sea-birds of that description wliich build their nests upon it. On the riglit is a moun- tain called Penmaenmawr. We then pass through another tunnel, and arrive at Conway (39\ miles) (Hotels: Castle, Erskine Anns), beautifully situated on a point where the river that bears its name falls into the sea. The an- cient castle was erected in the reign of Edward I., in 1284, and its ruins justify the account for-_ merly given of it as being one of the finest fortresses of which Eng- land could boast. It was one of the few which were spared by the Parliament in the civil war, and lias been reduced to its present condition by the acts of its owner, the Earl of Conway, to whom it was granted after the Restora- tion, having despoiled it for the sake of the lead on its roofs, and the timber used in its con- struction. It was built by Edward 1., in 1284, and was last garri- soned by Williams, Archbishop of York, on behalf of Charles the First. There is an interesting old house in the town, calh-d I'las l\[awr, or the "Great Hall," belonging to the Mostyn family, in the best style of Elizabethan architecture, exhibiting in an unusual degree its capabilities of jirofuse decora- tion externally and internally. In the interior are interesting sjie- cimens of carved oak, armorial achievements, niched figures, and scrolls. The church contains an elaborately carved oak screen, and a curious font of the fifteenth cen- tury, itself having been built a century earlier. , Leaving Conway, and still keep- ing near the sea-shore, we pass Llandudno Junction (40 miles), near which is the village of Llan- dudno, one of the most fashion- able watering places in the king- dom. We next stop at Rhyl (54^ miles), from which there is a branch to Denbigh. Rhyl is si- tuated on the sea, near the en- trance of the famous Vale of Clwyd, and is much frequented during the bathing season. We make no further stoppage till we reach Chester (84^ miles). {Ho- tels : Queen s, Grosvenor, Royal). Population, 31,110. Chester, from many points of view, is one of the most interesting cities in Great Britain. It probably retains, more nearly than any other, the regular arrangement of its streets, resem- bling those of a Roman camp (Custrum), from which it derives its name, crossing each other at right angles. No other English city has so well preserved its an- cient defences, which, although no longer of the slightest use for their intended purpose, form plea- sant promenades, and afford views of tlie surrounding country. An- other peculiar feature of the ])lace is the arrangement of the pavements called Rows, upon a level with the first floors of the Louses, in which tlje principal shops are found, tlie second floor j)ro- iecting over them and protect- ing tliem from rain. The Ca- thedral is ancient, but of no great beauty, the chapter-house, its most ancient ])art (early English), ENGLAND. Route r,2.— HOLYHEAD TO LO\DOX. 113 heinj tliat which is most gene- rally admired. Cliester is no longer of conse- quence as a port, but is a bisiiop's see and returns two members to Parliament. It lias Ion"; been ce- lebrated for its races, the course, miles from Chester on the .*^hrews- biiry road, the residence of the i\I;ir(niis of Westminster, iiead of tiie Grosvenor family, which has been of note in the county from the time of the Con(|uest. It is situated in a beautiful well-wooded I CHESTER, known as the Roodee, lying be- tween the walls and the river, being one of the best in England, and the race for the Chester Cup one of the most exciting to sports- men of the racing season. The most splendid seat in the county is Eciton Hall, about three park, contains a collection of ex- ceedingly valuable paintings and other works of art, and is one of the most imposing piles of Gothic architecture in the kingdom. After Chester, the next stoppage is at Crewe (105} miles). Tliis is quite a new town which lias II 114 Route 32.— HOLYHEAD TO LONDON. England. sprung up at the point of junction of the Manchester and Chester line with that of the London and North ^Veste^n Railway Company, The last-nanaed company having established here extensive locomo- tive and carriage factories which employ regularly about 2000 hands, the insignificant hamlet of three or four houses which stood here but a few years ago became the nucleus of the now thriving and rapidly increasing town. Its population was estimated at 12,000 in 1864', and must be now much larger. From Crewe we proceed to Stafford (ISSg miles), {Hotels: Swan, Vine, Maid's Head), popu- lation (1861) 12,532. This is an ancient Saxon town, with two an- cient churches. St. Mary's was formerly collegiate, is principally early English, and has a stained glass monumental window to the late Earl Talbot. St. Chad's is essentially Norman, but its best features had been long obscured by injudicious additions, until re- cent restorations. The principal manufacture is that of boots and shoes for the London market and for exportation, the preparation and dressing of leather, &c. Isaak AValton, author of "The Complete Angler," was born here. About 1^ miles from tlie town are tlia ruins of its ancient castle. Leav- ing Stafford we pass Lichfield (148 miles), (Hotels: George, Sican'), population, 6,900, an an- cient catliedral city, situated in a valley surrounded by hills of no great height. The principal trades are the carpet manufacture and brewing. The Cathedral is ancient, prin- cipally early English, but with traces of the preceding Norman style. It is a very fine building, with a central spire 258 ft. liigh, and two at the west end 183 ft. high. It has a fine peal of bells, the largest of which weighs 2,700 lbs., and is of remarkably clear tone. In the library, over the chapter-house, may be seen a Saxon copy of the Gospels, a Koran taken at the siege of Buda, an illuminated Chaucer, and other rare and curious volumes. Amongst the distinguished natives of this place may be mentioned Dr. Sam. Johnson, David Garrick, Addison, and Major Andre. There is a statue of the first-named in the town, and monuments to him and to Garrick in the Cathedral. The next place of importance is Tamworth (ISlg miles), {Hotels: King's Ar7ns, White Horse.) Po- pulation, in 1861, estimated at 10,192. This place foi-merly be- longed to the ilarmions, heredi- tary champions of the Dukes of Normandy, one of whom Sir Wal- ter Scott has made the hero of the poem which bears his name. Of late years it has been associated more familiarly in the public mind vrith the family of Peel, whose seat of Drayton INIanor is very near the town, and whose mem- bers have for a long time re- presented the Borough in Parlia- ment. The church of St. Editha, originally Norman, with additions in later styles, is a very fine build- ing, containing monuments of the Ferrars, other ancient families, and the Peels. The remains of the Castle are incorporated with the castellated mansion of the IVIarquis of Townshend, the re- presentative of the Marmions, and lord of the manor. We next ar- rive at Rugby (1811 miles), (Hotel: Royal), celebrated for its gram- mar school, of which the late Dr. Arnold was, for some time, head master. In the neiglibourhood, 1^ miles distant, is Bilton Hall, once tlie residence of Addison. WESTMINSTER A8BEV ST PAULS CAT Ht ORAL ^^ml^^% JUUI Applvtoris European Guide Book. -J Si ., I S I. K OF < ^rr 'X D <) a s i \> V TWV?i ^ <^i \ v^ Malhv X- Sous. I.oiulon. ENGLAND. Route 3'2.— HOLYHEAD TO LONDOX. 115 After leaving lUi-^liy, express trains mako no stop until their arrival in London. At Wolvertoii ('Jl'J miles), the line is carried over the Ouse by ii viaduct 660 it. long'. The J^ondon and jS'ortli Western Railway C'oin})any have chosen tliis place as one of their facto- ries, for the repair and construc- tion of rolling stock. Its popula- tion of '2,370 consists princi])allv of persons employed by the com- pany-. iileven and a quarter miles be- fore reaching London, we see the church and scliool of Uinnnc, beautifully situated on a hill rising from a plain. Ihe cele- brated school of Harrow was founded in the reigii of Queen Elizabeth, and is one of the first in the kingdom. Among the many distinguished men who liave been educated here are Lord Byron, Sir Robert Peel, and the late Lord Palmerston. In the church is a monument to Ur. Urury, once head-master of the school, in which he is represented witli Sir Robert Peel and Lord Byron, two of his pupils. A few minutes afterwards we reach Camden-toicn, on the outskirts of London. We then proceed to the Kuston-square Terminus, and find ourselves in London. LONDON. Population in 1870, 3,','15,000. ?OTKLS. Large estab- lishments (much re- sorted to by Ameri- cans) : — The Langham, Portland-place ; The Cliariitg-cruss, at the Charing-cross Railway Sta- tion ; The Grosvenor, at the Vic- toria Railway Station; The Weit- minster Palace Hotel; The Palace Hotel, near Buckingham I'alace. Smaller hotels in central j)osi- tions : Morleii's, Trafalgar-square ; Golden Cross, Charing-cross; C'r(/. for each per- son. The colossal statue of James Watt is by Chantrey, and there will be found other works of the same sculptor, as well as of Rou- biliac, Flaxman, Bacon, Westma- cott, and other celebrated artists. The chuir upon which the sove- reigns of Eni;land have been crowned for many centuries, and which serves as a frame for tlic stone of Scone, uuoa which the kings of Scotland had been, from time immemorial, crowned, up to the period when Edward I. in- vaded that country, and brought it away in token of the absolute subjection of the Scots, is shown here. There is a more modern throne, whicli was made very much after the fashion of the older one, for the coronation of Queen Mary with her husband, William of Orange. Two plainer pieces of furniture cannot well be imagined. The column with allegorical figures upon it, a few paces bej-ond the Abbey enclosure, at the west- end, is a monument to such of the officers who fell in the Crimea as had been educated at Westmin- ster school. Next in antiquarian interest to Westminster Abbey amongst the Churches, stands nndouhtealy that of the Temple. It is the best re- maining monument of the semi- religious, semi-military order by ■which it was founded. It was re- stored by the wealthy societies, to which it now belongs, in all its former magnificence, and with the most scrupulous regard to the architectural j)roprieties, between 1839-42, atacostofabout£70,000. In the burial ground, north-east of the choir, will be found a stone with tlie simple, but all-surticient inscription, " Ilere ties Olii^er C'liihlsiiiith." The effigies of cross- legged Knights Ti'ni])lar, in black marble, in the church, are very interesting. Tin- learned S'-ldcn is buried here, and in the'lriforium will now bi! fuund many of the monuments of the sixteenth cen- tury and later times, with which the body of the church was for- merly disfigured. The keys of the church are kept by tli»,' jiorter, at the top of Inner Temple J.ane, but a jxjrson is usuall}' in attend- ance within the church. While in the precincts of the Temple, a visit may be paid to the Middle and Inner Temple IlaUs, with their fine oaken ceilings, old paintings, and blazonries; and to the Middle Temple Library, a modern erection, nearer the river. The Temple Gardens are a pleasant promenade. St. Paui/s is, witliout excep- tion, the grandest building of its kind in the kingdom. The Fire of J^ondon afforded scope for the erection of tliis creation of Sir Christopher Wren's genius. It occupied 35 years in building, yet ■was completed under the super- intendence of one architect, one builder, and during tlie presi- dency over the see of one bishop. It is the AValhalla of F.ngland, as the inscriptions upon the mo- numents will explain. Nelson and Wellington are buried here. Finished in 1710, all the monu- ments which are erected in it are to persons whose exploits and works are the subjects of com- paratively recent records. The length from east to west is 610 ft. ; the width of the transept 'J.iO ft- The height of the dome to the top of the cross is -UM ft. The sarcophagus, which contains Nel- 120 LONDON. ENGLAND. son's coffin, was made for Henry VIII. by order of Cardinal Wol- sey, and t]ie coffin itself is made from a part of tlie mainmast of the ship L'Orient, destroyed at the battle of the Nile. A monu- ment to the Duke of Wellington, was built by Gibbs, 1721-6. The names of persons buried here which will be most familiar are those of Robert Boyle the Philo- soplier. Lord Mohun, killed in a duel witli the Duke of Hamilton, who also fell; Roubiliac, the ST. PAUL s. although provided for by pub- lic subscriptions, is not yet in ex- istence. I A few of i]ie monuments from the old building destroyed in the I'ire of London are preserved in the crypt. The noble proportions of this edifice cannot be judged of, from the confined space in which it is situated, and can be best appre- ciated from the river. The Church of St. Martin's-in- the-Fields is at the north-east corner of Trafalgar-square. It sculptor, Nell Gwynne, and "Jack Sheppard." St. Bm-tholomew's the Great, in West Smith field, is an old Norman church, with later additions. Ho- garth the painter was baptized here, and opposite to St. Bartho- lomew's Gate, in Queen Mary's reign, were burnt the Smithfield Martyrs, whose sufferings are de- tailed by Fox. In St. Saviour's,. Southwark (like the last, a con- ventual church), lie the poet Gower, Edmund Shakespeare,, younger brother of the poet; Sir ENGLAND. LONDON. 121 Edward Dyer, the friend of Sydney; Fletcher (witlj whom IJeaumont was associated) ; and JMassinn;er, the dramatic poet. St. ilelen'i, Bishops^tite-street, contains some altar tombs with effigies of Sir John Crosby (founder of the hall in the same street, wliicli bears his name, and has been restored within a few years) ; Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the first Royal Ex- change in London, and other per- sons of note in their day. St. Giles, Cripplegale, is an ancient church, princijially visited as the burial-place of .Milton, who composed " Paradise Lost " in this parish (house destroyed in 1864). Fox the martyrologist, and Speed the historian, are also buried, and Oliver Cromwell was married, here. The Register re- cords the burial of Defoe. At St. Paiicras, Euston-road, are buried Godwin tlie novelist ; JNIary Wolstonecraft his first wife, authoress of the " Vindication of the Rights of Womaa, "and mother of Mrs. Shelley; Dr. Walker, autlior of the " Englisli Pro- nouncing Dictionary ; " Jeremy Collier, and Ned ^Vard, author of the " London Spy." St. Mary-le-Saroy, or, as it is best known, the Savoy Chapel, lies between the Strand and the Thames. It was burnt in 1864 and perfectly restored by the Queen in 1865. Here were buried Gawain Douglas, Bishop of Dun- keld, the translator of \"irgil; and George Wither the poet. The "Sa- voy Conference " lor the revision of the Liturgy, on the restoration of Charles II., took place here. As more than fifty of the city churches were designed by Wren, it will be understood that most of them are modern and compara- tively uninteresting, except for their associations, which we slmll briefly point out. At St. Paul's (Co vent-garden), built by Inigo Jones, are buried iiutler, tiie au- thor of " Iludibras ;" Wycherh-y, the dramatist ; Grinling Gib- bons, the sculptor and carver in wood; I\Irs. Centlivri-, dramatic writer; Dr. Arne, the musical composer; Girtin, founder of the modern scjiool of water-colour painting ; and John Wolcot ( Peter Pindar) the satirist. At St. Bride's, Fleet-street, were buried, in the old church : Wj-nkin de Worde, the printer ; Sir Ricliard IJaker, author of the " Chronicle ;" and Lovelace, the poet ; in the new : Ogilby, trans- lator of Homer ; Sandford, author of " Genealogical History;" and Richardson the novelist. There is a copy from Rubens' " Descent from the Cross," in stained glass. In 5f. Stephen's, Walbrook, be- liind the Muiision-house, one of AVren's best etforts, lies Sir John A'anbrugh, the arcliitect and wit ; the last-named (piality has been exercised at his expense in the well-known epitaph suggested for him: " Lie heavy on him. Earth ! for he Laid many a heavy load on thee." In St. Magnus, London-bridge, lies Miles Coverdale, one of its rectors. Bishop of Exeter, and the first translator of the Bible into Englisli. in St. Jiimes's, Piccadilly, is a beautiful font in marble, and some foliage over the altar, by Grinling Gibbons. Buried here are the A'anderveldes, the marine painters ; Tom D'Urfey, the dramatist; Dr. Arbuthnot, the friend of Pope, Swift, and Gay; Akenside, the poet; Sir William Jones, the Ori- ental scholar; Varrell,the natura- list; and Gillray, the caricaturist. 67. Oeors;e's, Ilanover-stpiare, is the most fashionable church in 122 LONDON. ENGLAND. London for marriages. Sterne, author of " The Sentimental Jour- ney," and " Tristram Shandy," lies in its burial-ground at Bays- water. Two of the best specimens of Gothic churches are St. Stephens, in Rochester-row, Westminster, built by Miss Burdett Coutts; and All Saints, Margaret-street, Regent-street, the first stone of which was laid by Dr. Pusey, erected principally by the con- tributions of Mr. Tritton, the banker, and Mr. Beresford Hope. The internal decorations are very rich, Avith porphyry and inlaid marble, and there are some fres- coes by Dyer. St. Albans, near Gray's-inn-lane, Holborn ; St. Michael's, Shore- ditch ; j4i/Sam(s, York-road, Lam- beth, just across Westminster- bridge, to the left, may be selected as churches where the stranger may best see how nearly the ser- vice of the Church of England is made, by a section of its priest- hood, to approach that of Rome. The principal Roman Catholic cluuxhes are St, George's Cathe- dral,in St. George's Fields, South- wark, the largest built in England since tlie Reformation; the Jesuit Churcli of the Immaculate Con- ception, Farm-street, Berkeley- square; St. Mari/'s, Moorfields; the pro -cathedral, Kensington; and the Italian Church, Hatton- garden. At tlie last thi-ee is full orchestral service. There is a Gi-eek Chapel, in the Byzantine style, in Welbeck- street. The NationalScotch Ch tirch is in Crown-court, Long-acre; Dr. Gumming, author of several well-known works on the fulfil- ment of prophecy, is the minister. Behind the ][ esleyan Chapel, in the City-road, is the grave of John Wesley himself. Whitejield's C/wpeiis in Tottenham-court-road. Mrs. Whitefield, and Bacon the sculptor, R.A., are buried there; and over Surrey Chapel, in the Blackfriars-road, more frequently called Rowland Hill's, as it was built for him, the Rev. Newman Hall presides. The Tabernacle, built for the Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, and where he still ministers, is on the Surrey side of the Thames, near the "Elephant and Castle." It is an enormous building, of Italian architecture, and has seats for 4,400 persons. There are German, French, Dutch, and Swedish Protestant places of worship; and, in the last named, Baron Swedenborg, founder of the sect named after him, is buried. The principal Synagogue of the Jews is in Great St. Helen's, St. jMary-axe, Leadenhall-street. Palaces. St, James's Palace, Marlbo- rough House, the residence of the Prince of Wales (immediately opposite to the last named, in St. Jajnes's Park), and Kensington Palace, have no one character about them which would strike a chance observer as palatial. St. James's is only used for state re- ceptions and ceremonials, and Kensington has long since ceased to be the abode of royalty. Buckingham Palace, at the western end of the Park, com- menced by George IV. and finished only in the present reign, is a really fine building, and the town residence of the Queen. The best point of view of Buckingham I'alace is at the head of the lake, nearest the Horse Guards, (The magnificent state-coach and the liorses may be seen in tlie Mews adjoining this palace, by an order procured from the Master of the Horse.) ENGLAND. LONDON. 123 The new Pa lack at West- minster, or The Houses of Paii- LiAMENT, are best seen en masse from the river. The chambers in which the debates are carried on can be seen on Saturdays by orders obtainable at tlie J^ord Chamber- Iain's office, in tlie court next to the Victoria Tower. To attend the debates in tlie House of Lords, a peer's order is necessary ; for those and costly. Tlie \'ictoria Tower, the most conspicuous erection in the iMetropolis, is 7.5 ft. S(|uare, andS-k) ft. uiffh. The Clock 'J'ouer, near Westminster-bridge, is 40 ft. square and 310 ft. high. Its clock face is 23 ft. in diameter ; and tlie bell on which the hours are struck weighs more than H tons. The two chambers can be best reached through ]\'eslmiiister Hall, which IIOVSES OF PARLIAMENT. in tlie House of Commons, a mem- ber's order ; either is generally ob- tainable on application through the messengers. When Law ap- peals are going on in the House of Lords, of which notices appear in the newspapers, no formality is recjuired to enter it, as it is an open court. The decorations of tlie chambers of both the Lords and Commons are exceedingly profuse is 270 ft. long by 74 ft. wide. This hall is femous for the im- portant trials which have taken place in it. Charles I. was iiere tried and condemned. The higher Courts of Law have their entrances from this hall. In the corridor tlirough which the " Houses" are entered, are some good statues of distinguished statesmen of various periods. 124 LONDON. ENGLAND, ^Vhilst in the neighbourhood of tlie Houses of Parliament, a glance may be given at the Government 0[fices in DoT\-ning- Street ; J1/o?i- taga House, town residence of the Duke of Buccleuch, where there is a good collection of English minia- tures, some portraits by Van Dyck, and a picture of Whitehall, which is considered one of Canaletti's finest works. Whitehall, or all that now represents the celebrated palace which once bore that name, was designed by Inigo Jones, and burnt in the reign of William III. The portion preserved was the Banqueting Hall, in front of which, iacing the park, Charles I. was executed. The ceiling pictures, representing the apotheosis of James I., were painted by Rubens, and are best seen from the south end of the apartment. {The build- ing has since been used as a chapel, although never conse- crated, and the Slaundy Thursday charities of the Queen are dis- pensed here in accordance with old custom. The Treasury build- ings. Horse Guards, and the Ad- mirulty, are passed on the left hand on the way to Trafalgar- square. Museums, &c. The British Museum, in Great Russell -street, is an imposing structure of Grecian Ionic archi- tecture with columnar facade, 570 ft. in length. The columns are 5 ft. in diameter at the base, and 45 ft. high. It was completed in 1804. This edifice contains a library exceeding 750,000 vo- lumes, being second only to the Imperial Library at Paris. It contains a greater number of American books than any library in the United States. Besides books, it has an exceedingly rare and valuable collection of manu- scripts, and extensive collections of prints and drawings; Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek, and Roman an- tiquities. Its collections of speci- mens of geology, botany, zoology, and mineralogy are unsurpassed. The Elgin marbles are unequalled by any sculptures in existing col- lections. From the 9th INIay to 8th August inclusive, the public is admitted to view the collections, on Mondays, from 10 until & o'clock ; on Wednesdays and Fridays, from 10 to 6; and on Saturdays, from 12 to 8. From 9th to 31st August inclusive, on JVIondays, Wednesdays, and Fri- days, from 10 until 6, and on Saturdays, from 12 till 6. During the remainder of the year, the hours of admission are from 10 to 4. It is closed from 1st to 7th Jan- uary, 1st to 7th jNIay, and from 1st to 7th of September. South Kensington Museum, Brompton, is a museum of art, and of manufactures connected with the arts. It originated in 1852, and has already become one of the most extensive and impor- tant museums in the world. Its collections of mediaeval and mo- dern art, consisting of paint- ings, sculptures, goldsmiths' work, jewels, carvings, porcelain, armour, tapestries, &c., are ex- ceedingly interesting. IMost of the paintings of the celebrated Vernon gallery, the Sheepslianks collection, and the cartoons of Raphael, formerly at Hampton Court, are now exhibited in this museum. Admission : Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday, free, from 10 a.m. to 10 P.M. ; on Wednesday, Thurs- day, and Friday, from 10 to 4, 6d. The National Gallery of paintings is upon tlie north side of Trafalgar -square. It was founded in 1824, and the present building was erected in 1832-8. The collection of paintings con- CXGLAND. LONDON. 126 sists of works of the highest class of all schools, collected without regard to cost. No tourist should omit to visit it. The gallery is open to the public on -Monday, Tuesday, ^^'eanesday, and Satur- day ; to artists, on Tluirsday and Friday. It is closed during tlie last two weeks of September and during the month of October. Siu John So.ane's ^Iuseum, 13, Lincoln's-inn-fields. To the ad- mirers of architectural and sculp- tural anticjuities, relics of ancient art, models, fine ])aiiitings, iScc, this museum will be found iiighl^' interesting; it was bequeathed to the nation by Sir Jolm Soane, R. A. Here is the celebrated Egyptian sarcophagus, of ala- baster, covered with hierogly- phics, discovered hy 13elzoni, in 1816, and ascertained to be about 3,400 years old. There are also some excellent paintings by Cana- letti, a few original Ilogarths, and many designs by Sir John Soane. Tlie museum is open to tlie public on Wednesdays, Thursdaj-s, and Fridaj's, during the months of April, iNIay, June, July, and Au- gust. The Zoological Gardens, situ- ated on the north-east of the Regent"s-park, were established by a society founded in 1826 by- Sir Stamford Raffles, Sir Hum- phry Davy, Lord Auckland, and othernoblemen, patrons of science. The gardens were opened to tlie public in 18'J8, and form at this time one of the most rational and attractive objects of curiosity from their situation and admirable style of arrangement. The collection of wild and domestic quadrupeds, birds, (kc, is very numerous, and comprises many rare specimens of the animal kingdom, including two hippopotami. The gardens are open dailj', except Sunday, from 10 in tlic morning till sunset. Admittance, Is., except on Monday, wlu-n it is only 6d. ^Members of the Zoolo- gical Society are admitted witliout ciiarge every day, including Sun- days. On Saturday, in " the season," a military band plays in the gardens. The RovAL College of Sur- geons, Lincoln's-inn-fields, was incorporated by royal charter in 1800. The building presents in front a noble colonnade and por- tico of tlie Ionic order. The museum is a magnificent room witli three galleries, and contains, among many valuable and curious objects, the collection of the cele- brated anatomist, John Hunter, purchased by government, and committed to the care of tliis college, witii the condition that twenty-four lectures, illustrative of some of the preparations, should be delivered annually. The principal objects are the arti- culated skeletons, placed on pedes- tals, of tJie megatherium and hippopotamus; O'Brien, the Irish giant ; the dwarf Madlle. Cra- chami; Chuny, tlie elephant shot at the Royal Exchange ; a giraffe and a Bactrian camel ; besides innumerable other objects of in- terest. Admittance by order of a member of the college, iMonday, Tuesday, ^Vednesday, and Thurs- day, between 1'2 and 4 o'clock, except the month of September, when the museum is closed. ]M ADAM eTuSSAVd's\V AX- WORK. This very interesting exhibition is situated at the bazaar in Baker- street, Portman-square. The suite of rooms is i!43 ft. long by 48 ^vide, and contains a gallery of ful' -length portraits of Queen Vic- toria and Prince Albert, George III. and Queen Charlotte, George IV. and \\ illiam IV., George IL, Louis XIV., the Duchess of IMa- zarine, the Duchess of Kassau, 126 LONDON. ENGLAND, &:c. Here are likewise two " Na- poleon Rooms," containing the camp-bed on whicli the ex-empe- ror died ; tlie two carriages used by him at the battle of Water- loo, and several portraits. The collection is altogether a magnifi- cent display of paintings, costumes of all periods, jewellery, relics ; and wax modelling, seen as it should be as to effect of colour, light, ike. Admission : Groat Room and the Hall of Kin^, Is. ; children, 6d. Napoleon Rooms and Chamber of Horrors, 6(1. extra. Squares. Among the Squares best worth notice are the following: — Trafalgar Square contains several statues, the Nelson Co- lumn, and the north side is occu- pied by the National Gallery. Near the Nelson Column, towards Westminster, is an equestrian statue of Charles I. It occupies the site of Queen Eleanor's Cross, and the place of the execution of the Regicides. Grosvenor Square is situated on the south side of Oxford- street, and contains 6 acres of ground : in the centre was for- merly a gilt equestrian statue of George 1., by Van Nost, erected in 1726, by direction of Sir R. Grosvenor. The buildings are handsome, and the ground within the railing well laid out. PoRTMAN Square is surrounded by large and elegant mansions. It was begun in 1764, and was not completed for 20 years. At the north-west angle is the man- sion built for Mrs. Montague, and where the chimney-sweeps of London were, for several years, entertained on jNIay-day. Hanover Square was built soon after the accession of the house of Hanover. On the soutli side is a colossal bronze statue of Pitt, by Chantrey, 12 ft. in height^ placed on a granite pedestal. Belgrave Square, Pimlico^ was commenced in 1825, on the estate of the IVIarquis of West- minster, and is now one of the most distinguished ornaments of tlie metropolis, being 864 ft. long and 617 ft. broad ; the houses, large, handsome, and uniform, are adorned with Corinthian columns. Eaton Square, situated to the south-east of Belgrave-square, is a parallelogram, 1,637 ft. by 371 . At the north end is St. Peter's Church, designed by Mr. Hakewell. Russell Square, one of the largest and most uniform squares in London, has the interior laid out with great taste. In the centre of the south side, facing Bedford- place, is the bronze statue of Francis Duke of Bedford, in his peer's robes, by Westmacott, R.A. Lincoln's Inn Fields, laid out in 1618, by Inigo Jones, but the west side only was built upon in his time. On the south side is the Royal College of Surgeons, with its wonderful JMuseum ; on the north, Sir .lohn Soane's Museum ; and on the east side, the new hall and library of Lincoln's Inn complete the square. It was in this square that William, Lord Russell was beheaded, July 21, 1683. Public Buildings. The Mansion House, the resi- dence of the lord mayor during his year of office, is a magnificent building at the west-end of Lom- bard-street, erected entirely of Portland stone. The interior is splendidly decorated and fur- nished ; and when lighted up on festive occasions, the state apart- ments are very superb. They consist of tlie Egyptian hall, ball- room, state drawing-room, saloon, Venetian parlour, long parlour, and state bed-room. ENGLAND. LONDON. 127 The Custom House, Lower Thamcs-strpct, is an extensive buiUlinj,', with tin- ])nncij>al front towards the i'Lames ; it has three porticoes of the Ionic order, each consisting of six columns; that in tlie centre projects heyond tlie others, and is surmounted by a para])et, with a clock in the middle. Between tlie river and tlie building is a spacious gra- velled quay or terrace, forming- an agreeable evening promenade for the families in its vicinity : it commands a good view of London J5ridge, and of that part of the river which is enlivened by the bustle occasioned by the departure and arrival of the numerous ves- sels. The (Custom House is 480 ft. in lengtli, and 100 ft. in breadth. Tm; Bank of England is an insulated assemblage of buildings and court-yards, on the north side of the Royal Exchange, and nearly- opposite the Mansion-house ; but it is nominally in Threadneedle- street. It occuj)ies an irregular areaofS acres. Within this space are 9 open courts, wliicli afford light to the various offices, there being no windows in the exterior of the building. The accommodations consist of a rotunda, ])ublic offices, private apartments, committee-rooms, an armoury, library, printing-office, Sec, all well adapted for the pur- poses and business of the Bank; the details of the architecture, by Sir John Soane, are beautiful. Admission to the interior may be had by special order from the governor,or a director. The hall, rotunda, 6cc., may be seen by strangers on any business day. The Boval Exchange. — The late Royal Exchange, founded by Charles II., and greatly improved in the present century, was de- stroyed by firo, January 10th, 18.'>8. On its site the present s])lendid building was commenced, and the foundation stone laid by His Royal Highness Prince Al- bert, on the 17th Januarj', IQI'2. It was completed in less than three years. The building stands east and west; the extreme length is 308 ft., the west end is 119 ft. in width, and the east end 175 ft. ; the area for the merchants, 170 ft. by 112 ft. ; the height of the tower to the top of the vane, 177 ft. The principal entrance is at the west end, under a portico supported by eight Corinthian columns, which is ascended by 13 granite steps. The eastern entrance is under the tower ; and on the north and south sides are entrances to the mer- chants' area. In the quadrangle is a marble statue of the Queen, and in front is an equostiian statue of Welling- ton. In the rear of the Exchange, in Threadncedle-street, is the statue of the late George Peabody, by the American sculptor Story. Guildhall, King Street, Cheapside, is the princijjal seat of City legislation. Here courts and meetings of tlie livery and free- men take place ; elections are held; and City feasts given on memo- rable occasions. The building is irregular, and the work of dif- ferent periods. The latest is the Gothic front, finished 1789 ; in the centre are the City Arms. In the great hall, which is l.i3 ft. in length, 18 in widtli, and !)5 in height, are chosen tiic Lord ^Maj'or and Sheriffs, and ^Members of Par- liament to represent tlie City. The liall, which is at all times open to strangers, is cnriclied by sjilendid monuments, raised to perpetuate tlie fame of Chatham, Pitt, Nelson, and Bcckford. The windows at each end have the Royal Arms, tlie insignia of the Bath, the Garter, St. Patrick, and the City 128 LONDON. ENGLAND. Arms, beautifully represented in stained glass. In the screen at the east end, are statues of Edward VI., Queen Elizabetli, and Charles I. At the west end, raised on pedestals, stand two colossal figures, called Gog and Magog; they are said to represent an ancient Briton and a Saxon. The General Post-Office, near St. Paul's Cathedral, is a vast edifice in the Ionic styl'i of architecture. It was completed in 1829. Parks. The favourite and most pictu- resque of all the Parks is Hyde Park, occupying 395 acres, witli its Rotten Row and Drive or " La- dies' Mile," where may be seen, at different hours, most of the representatives of talent, rank, wealth and fashion in London. The lake, extending from a point opposite Albert Gate to the north- ern extremity of Kensington Gar- dens, is called The Serpentine. Opposite the grand entrance is a colossal statue of Achilles, com- posed of the metal of guns taken at Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse and Waterloo, erected and in- scribed to the Duke of Wellington and his companions in arms, by the women of England. On the south side of the park, opposite Prince's Gate, is the national monument to the memory of the late Prince Consort.* At Hyde Park Corner, upon the triumphal arch, near Apsley House, so long his residence, is a statue of the Duke of Wellington mounted upon his charger. Connecting Hyde Park with St. James's, is the road called Constitution Hill, in which Sir Robert Peel was killed by a • Its estimated cost is £120,000, of which £50,000 is fcranted by Parlia- ment and the remainder made up of subscriptions by the public and the Queen. fall fi-om his horse, and three attempts, real or pretended, have been made upon the Queen's life. Kensington Gardens, adjoining Hyde Park, are much resorted to during the season, when the baud plays. (S'f. Jameses Park has an area of 91 acres. It was first laid out by Henry VIII., and was finally arranged by George IV. nearly as at present. On the west is Buckingham Palace, on the north side are the Green Park, Stafford House, St. James's Palace, and Mai-lborough House. The gar- dens in this park are very beau- tiful. Regent's Park, extending over 450 acres, was laid out in 1812, and is now surrounded by hand- some residences. It was called after the Prince Regent, after- wards George IV. Within the circular drive near its centre are the Botanical Gardens, to which admittance is obtained by mem- ber's introduction ; and "towards the north-east end the Zoological Society's grounds. Green Park, about 60 acres in extent, between Piccadilly and St. James's Park, was formerly called " Upper St. James's Park." Battersea Park lias been con- verted since 1832, at a cost of above £300,000, from marshy fields to its present state. The great attraction here is the subtro- pical garden. The great thorough- fare to this park from Pimlico is over Chelsea Bridge, constructed on the suspension principle, tlie most elegant of its kind on the Thames. Victoria Park, Bethnal Green, is the place of recreation for the north-east of London, and was formed with the £72,000 paid by the Duke of Sutherland for the crown lease of his house in St. ENGLAND. LONDOX. 129 James's Park in 1841. l\Iiss Bur- dett Coutts lias erected a Land- some drinkino; fountain bare at a cost of £o,00U. There are other parks at Fins- bury, and liotherhithe, Southwark. The Towku. — The mere men- tion of tlie TOWF.II OF LONDON recalls some of the most stir- ring events of Englisli liistory, whether we consider it as a royal palace, or, as it ultimately became, a state prison. Without the pos- session of this fortress, in the old days of the strong hand, the title of king was esteemed little better than an empty name ; but our re- collections of it in connection with royal pageantry soon subside into those of the many acts of tyranny and ruthless bloodshed which liave been perpetrated within its walls. No building probably, in a still inhabitable state, in the whole world, has such a history. The two murdered sons of Edward IV., their uncle Clarence, Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane Grey, and Sir Walter Raleigh, are but few out of the legion of names of those who l»ave met their fate here, more or less unjustly. To enumerate all would be impossible here, but the visitor's memory will be amply refreshed as he proceeds with his inspection. A fire broke out in 1811 in the armoury, wliere an im- mense number of small arms were stored, and many interesting curi- osities were destroj-ed ; but there is still a remarkable collection of armour and trophies of various dates. The crown jewels, swords of state, and paraphernalia used at the coronations, called the re- galia, are exhibited here. Temi'i.e Bah, the only City gate now remaining, separates the Strand from Fleet Street; the city from llie county, or shire. It was built by Wren in 1670, and is interestins; from its his- torical associations, as the jdace where the heads of traitors were exposed; and where the Lord Mayor, upon the occasion of royal visits to the City, reminds his So- vereign that lie is King of the Cit}-, by closing the gates, tlien opening them witli heraldic ceremonies, and giving up the keys and sword of tlie city, which are at once graciously returned to him. Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lodged for a time, is in its immediate vicinity. Some of the Doctor's haunts in the neighbourhood are still in existence, as the Cock Tavern, nearly opposite the en- trance to the riliddle Temple, and tlie jlii(rp,down Mitre-passage, on the right hand side of Fleet-street. The principal London Theatres are — Her Majesty's Theatre, or the Opera House, recently rebuilt, having been burned in December, 1867. Covent Garden Theatre, or Royal Italian Opera, Bow- street, Covent Garden, — seats for 2,000 persons. Druri/'lane Theatre, the oldest in London. Haymarhet ; Adelphi, in the Strand ; Roiial Lyceum, in the Strand ; Princess's, in Oxford- street ; St. James's, in King-street, St. James's; Olympic, in Wych- street; Strand; Queen's, in Long- acre. The ]3RiDGrs over the Thames are the following, comiiicncing at London Bridi:e, 9'28 ft. long, five arches. South Kaslern Rail- uay Rrid^e, 771 ft. long, five arches. Southwark Uridine, 708 ft. long, three arches. liluckj'riars Brid'j;e,l,'272 ft. long, rive arches. ]Vaterloo Bridge, 1,380 ft. long, nine arches. (A fine view of Somerset House from this bridge.) Chtiriiig-cross Bridge, ciglit arches of 70 ft. each. Westminster Bi idge, 1,160 ft. long, seven arches. (One I 130 LONDON. ENGLAND. of the best views of the Houses of Parliament is from this bridge.) Above the cityareLambeth, Vaux- hall, Pimlico Kailway, and other bridges. The Methopolitan, or Under- ground Railway is one of the curiosities of London. The main line is from the " City," via Pad- dington and Victoria Stations, to Blackfriars Bridge ; there are several branch lines. It runs, for a great part of tlie distance, not only underneath the houses and streets, but below the gas- pipes and water-mains. The cars are similar to those used on other railways, and are well lighted. Travelling upon this railway is by no means disagreeable. Cremorne Gardens, King's- road, Chelsea. — These extensive grounds of 11 acres, formerly' the residence of Lord Cremorne, and afterwards of the Baron de Be- renger, are open to the public every day ; and in the evening, brilliantly illuminated, during tlie summer. The entertainments con- sist of concerts, vaudevilles, bal- lets, and dancing. The gardens are resorted to in the evening by the demi-monde. The Foundling Hospitat., Ciuildford Street, was founded through the exertions of Captain Thomas Coram, in the year 1739, by royal charter, granted by George IL, for tlie maintenance and education of exposed and deserted j'oung children. Private donations, liberal bequests, and endowments, constitute the abso- lute property of the foundation. The interest of tliis property, with the collections in the chapel, the produce of the cliildren's work, benefactions, legacies, rents, &c., produce an annual income of nearly £10, GOO, whicli provides for the maintenance and education of nearly -IGO children. On leav- ing the hospital, their masters and mistresses receive with them clothes, money, &c., at the dis- cretion of the committee, to any amount not exceeding £10. The edifice is spacious and con- venient. In the chapel is a fine altar-piece, "Christ blessing little children," by West. The organ was presented to the institution by Handel. Divine service, with a choir, is performed every Sunday morning and afternoon. The hos- pital may be seen on Sundays and Mondays in the middle of the day. Newgate, in the Old Bailey,is the great metropolitan gaol. It was a prison early in the 13th century ; but the present edifice was built between 1770 and 1783 — the old prison was burnt in the riots of 1780. The plan of the prison is quadrangular. The un- tried prisoners are kept separate from tlie tried. In the portion adjoining Newgate-street are the condemned cells, in which persons under sentence of death are con- fined. They are narrow and dark, with a small grated aj^ierture in each, receiving light from the court, in which the criminals are permitted to walk duiing t!ie day. The number of prisoners some- times reaches 500, wlien tlie ses- sions of the Central Criminal Court are approaching. Here is a neat chapel, where the ordinary of Newgate reads prayers twice on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, preaches every Sunday morning, reads private prayers with those under sentence of death on Tuesdays and Thursdaj^s. Strangers wishing to view New- gate or other prisons of the metropolis, will obtain admit- tance on procuring an order from the Secretary of State for the Home Department, from the she- riffs, or other official personages. ENOIANI). LONDON. 1*1 Executions formerly took place in front of (lie prison, they now take place within tlie walls. William Penn, Titus Oates, Defoe and Jack Sheppard were confined liere. Markets. CovENT Gardev Market, for fruit, flowers, slirubs, seeds, and vegetables, was constructed from designs by -Mr. Fowler, at a cost of £50,000. It consists of three sides of a ([uadrangle surrounded by a Doric colonnade of granite pillars. The wings have sliops facing the sciuare, and otiiers look- ing towards the open market. In the centre is an avenue, with shops on each side. The flower market is on the west side. The present market was built at the expense of the Duke of Bedford, on whose estate it stands. Market jiaj's, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Biitingf^ate is the great fish market of London. It is a little below London Bridge. It was made a fisli market in 1699, and is the largest devoted to that single traffic in the world. 'i'he new MetropoHUm Meat Market, Sniitlifield, a liandsome building in the style of the Renaissance, is 630 "ft. long by 246 wide and covers tliree acres. It connects with the Underground Railway. Tlie principal Clubs are situated in Pall ^lall and St. .lames'-street. Among the most imj)ortant are the Uiiiled Service, Army and Navy and Junior United Service clubs, for military and naval officers; the Reform, the Carlton (head -quarters of the Conservative party), the Travellers', the AthencLum (for literary and scientific men), Uni- ted Univcrsiiu, Oxford and Cam- bridge, M in Pali -Mall; White's (once a Tory club), and Brookes's (the strong-hold of the old Whig party), in St. James's-street. Tlie j>rincipal Docks are th<* London Docks at W'appiug, IJ miles below London Bridge, covering '28 acres, the West India Docks, 4 miles down the river, occupying, with the warehouses, 29,5 acres ; tlie East India Docks, with an area of 30 acres; thr? Commercial Docks, on the soutli side of the Thames, covering 4'.' acres ; St. Katherine's Docks, just below the Tower, and near the Custom House, covering, with their buildings, 24 acres. The Hoi. horn \'iaditt — a remarkable engineering achieve- ment by William Haywood, en- gineer, by which Ilolborn-hill is avoided — is 1,400 ft. long from Hatton-garden to Newgate-street, and no ft. wide. The bridge over Farringdon-street is of iron, rest- ing on polished granite piers. The sewers are underneath the viaduct, and the gas and water pipes and telegraph wires are contained in vaults or diambers under the footways. Tliese vaults are ingeniously lighted by an American invention, known as Hyatt's pavement lights. The I'uAjiEs Embankment is a solid river-wall of stone 8 ft. thick and 40 ft. high, which ex- tends from Westminster -bridge to the Temple, on the ^Middlesex side of tlie river, and is being extended to Blackfriars-bridge. The roadway is 100 ft. wide, and underneath it are two passages or tunnels, one for the great sewer, the other for water and gas pipes and telegraph wires. The Metro- politan or Underground Railway runs parallel with the Embank- ment. The cost of the part com- ])l''t(>d is about two millions of pounds sterling. 132 LONDON. ENGLAND. Peabody Buildings. Buildings, at a cost of about one-third of the Gift, are com- pleted at Spitalfields, Islington, Shadwell, Westminster, and Ciiel- sea, together providing tenements for nearly 600 families. The Trust has also acquired other sites on which preparations are being made for other Buildings. The amount of iNIr. Peabody s Gift is £500,000, to be applied to the construction of such improved Houses now remaining which have been inhabited by emi- NENT Persons. The Duke of Wellington lived in J;j47e!/Hoiise,Hyde-park-corner, thirty-two years. Lord Nelson lived for a time at 141, New Bond-street. Edmund Burke died at 37, Ge- rard-street, Soho. Sheridan died at 7, Saville-row, near Regent-street. JMilton lived at 19, York-street, the quadrant, recent street. dwellings for the labouring poor of London as may combine, in the utmost possible degree, the essen- tials of healthfulness, comfort, social enjoyment and economy. A small rent is required for work- ing expenses and repairs, and to add to the general fund for the perpetuation of the objects of the trust. The trustees are Earl Derby, the American Minister, ex officio, Sir Curtis Lampson, Baronet ; Sir Stafford Northcote, Baronet ; and J. S. Morgan, Esq. Westminster. The former front of the house is now its back. Here he lost the entire use of his eyes, and here his first wife, Mary Powell, died. The house over- looks the old garden of Jeremy Bentham. Howitt says that " when Bentham was conducting people round his garden, he used to make them sometimes go down on their knees to this house." Dryden died at 43, Gerard- Street, Soho. Byron was born at 16, Holies- } ENGLAND. LONDON. 133 street, near Oxford-street. Uc afterwards resided at 139, Picca- dilly. Keats once lodged at 71, Cheap- side. Thomas Moore resided at '27, Bury-street, St. James's. Johnson completed his Dic- tionary at 17, Gough-square, Fleet-street. Goklsmitli died at 2, Brick- court, Temple. (At The Mitre Tavern, Fleet- Street, and Jack's Coffee House (now ^V:llke^'s Hotel), Dean- street, corner of Queen-street, Soho, Johnson and Goldsmith frequently met their literary friends. The latter was also a resort of Garrick.) Lawrence Sterne died at -11, Old Bond -street. Charles Lamb died at •!•, Inner Temple-lane. Sir Isaac Newton lived in St. ^lartin's-street, near Leicester- square, where his observatory still remains. William Penn once lived in the last house on the left in Aoifolk- street. Strand. iladame de Stael once lodged at 30, A rgyll-street, Regent-street. Napoleon III. last lodged in London at 3, King- street, St. James"s-square. Benjamin Franklin once lived at 7, Craven-street, Strand. The Races. The great event of the racing year is the Epsom Derby, which takes place in I\Iay or June. " Derby-day " is the great car- nival of London. On that day the sessions of Parliament are suspended, and the business cen- tres of the City are deserted. The scene " upon the road," going to and returning from this race, is very striking. The race is run "upon the. Wednesday im- mediately before Whitsuntide, except when Easter occurs in IMarch, when it is run in the first or second week after Whit- suntide." University Boat-Race. The race between the Univer- sities of Oxford and Cambridge takes place in .March or April of each year, on tiie Thames, between Putney and Mortlake. It is con- tested by eight oarsmen from each university, and the contest is always witnessed by many thou- sands of spectators. Among the many other sights of London which will well repay the visitor, we may mention the annual F^xhibition of the Royal Academy of Ahts (pictures by living artists), whicli opens on the first Monday of May, and continues twelve weeks; the F>x- iiiHiTioN of Cattle bj' the S.mith- riEi.D Cli'ii, in the great Agri- cultural Hall, Islington - green ; antl the annual House Show, at the same place, held soon after Derby-day. EXCURSION FROM LONDON TO KEW GARDENS RICHMOND, AND HAMPTON COURT. ?RAINS leave the Water- loo Station of the Lon- don and South-Western Railway, Ludgate-hill, and the Bishop's Road Station of the Underground Railway, many times a day for Kew Gar- dens and Richmond. There are also trains from Waterloo direct to Richmond on the main line, and Hampton Court on the branch line. Kew and Richmond may also be reached by omnibus from the City and Piccadilly. Kew is a pleasant village in Sur- 134 LONDON. ENGLAND. rey, about 7 miles from LoiiJon, distinguished for its Botanical Gardens and Pleasure Grounds. The former are open every day from 1 o'clock till dusk, except on Sunday, when the hours are from 2 to 6. They extend over 75 acres, and are beautifully laid out, with magnificent trees of all kinds, choice flowers, and conservatories or hot-houses, containing rare exotic plants and trees. The IV iu- Michaelmas. They comprise about 130 acres, and contain, amongst other buildings, an observatory, and a pagoda modelled after the Chinese. Near the grounds is the palace once occupied by George III., also Cambridge Cottage, the residence of the Duchess of Cam- bridge, and Cumberland Lodge, where the late King of Hanover lived while Duke of Cumberland. Richmond (^Hotels: Star and niCMMOND PARK. ter Garden is 583 feet in length, and extends over If acres. The next in size, the Fulm House, mea- sures 562^ feet in length, by 100 in breadth, and 64 in heiglit, and contains some noble specimens of various kinds of palms. One of the conservatories is devoted en- tirely to ferns, native and tropical ; another to cactuses. The Pleasure Grounds are open on Thursdays and Sundays from Midsummer to Garter, Castle) is about 1^ miles from Kew, and may be reached either direct from London (9 miles), or by omnibus from Kew, or by rail from Kew Gardens Station. The view of the Thames from the terrace along Richmond Hill is considered one of the most beautiful in the neighbourhood of the metropolis, or indeed in any part of England. Richmond Park contains 2,^5.5 aqres, and affords a ENGLAND. LONDON. 135 delightful promenade. Within its precincts we find Pembroke Lod^e, tlie residonco of Karl Russell, and The White Lod'j^e, formerly occu- pied by Prince Alfrtnl. Leaving Richmond Station we reach Twickenham (1 ^ miles), cele- brated as the residence, and burial- place of Alexander Rope, to whom a monument is erected in the churcli. A short distance beyond Twickenham is Teddington, from which Hampton Couiir {Hotels: Thames. It was built originally by Cardinal Wolsey.antl presented by him to Henry VI II. It was the favourite rcxidence of Oliver Cromwell, and was considerably enlarged by William III. The state apartments are open from 10 to 6 from April 1st to October 1st, and from 10 to 4 during the otlier montlis, every day excej)t Friday ; on Sundays from 2 to 6. 'I'hey contain an extensive collection of paintings. One room, called "the HAMPTON COURT P.iLACE, 3Iitre, Greyhound, King's Arms) ■can conveniently be reached by carriage or on foot, 1| miles through Busheij I'lirk. If the tourist takes this route, instead of going round by ('lapliam Junction, he will be well repaid by the sight of the noble avenue of horse chestnut- trees through which the road passes straight from one gate to the other opposite the grounds of Hamjiton Court Palace. (This may also be very conveniently visited from Hampton Court.) The journey can be made also by cab from Richmond. The Palace is situ- ated on the north bank of the Queen's drawing-room," is fdled v\-ith paintings by Benjamin \Vest. The celebrated Cartoons of Ra- phael have been removed to the South Kensington Museum. ]Vol- sey's Great Hall is a magnificent Gothic room, with an elaborately carved ceiling, and is hung round with Arr;\s tapestry representing tlie history of Abraham. In the adjoining apartment, or with- drawing room, are some additional specimens of tapestry, greatly in- jured by age. In the gardens are shaded walks, and torraces over- looking tlie river. The great vine is the largest, probably, in the 13(3 LONDON. ENGLAKD. world, measuring 110 feet in the extent of its branches from the stem, the principal stem itself having a circumference of nearly 30 inclies. It frequently yields 3,000 bunches of grapes a year. We may return to London direct (15 miles), 1st class, 2s. ; 2nd class, Is. 6d. ; 3rd class. Is. 3d, EXCURSION. LONDON TO GREENWICH AND WOOL- WICH, BY STEAMER. Fares 6d and 4d. EAVING the land- ing-stage at Charing- cross or below London- bridge, the steamer makes its way down the Fool, as that part of the river is called, passing through rows of col- liers and other vessels waiting their turns to discharge. We pass, on tlie left, the Custom House and the Toner, and, on either side the several Docks, of which mention has been made. We next leave, on the left, the Isle of Dogs, and, on the right, Deptford, where Peter the Great worked as a shipwright. The Yard is now closed. Opposite Millwall on the Isle ofDogs,is Greermicli (5miles) (Hotels: Trafalgar, Ship), popu- lation estimated at 139,436. The tourist cannot fail to notice the magnificent Hosjntal, on the site of wliich was once a Royal Palace, the residence of Henry VIll. and of Queens Mary and I^lizabeth. It stands close by the river on a spacious terrace, and has a fron- tage of 865 feet. The present building was constructed in tlie reign of William III. for the bene- fit of the seamen wounded in the battle of Lo Hui^iie, and has since been open for the reception of all sailors of the Royal Navy who have become incapacitated by wounds or ill-health endured or incurred while employed in active service. In the Hall are several pictures, and sundry memorials of Lord Nelson. Adjoining Green- wich Hospital is the Park, in which is the Royal Observatory, established in the reign of Charles II, Calculations of latitude and longitude, and all astronomical and meteorological observations are regulated by " Greenwich Time" all over the world. At the hotels above mentioned the tourist may indulge in the luxury of a white-bait dinner. The members of the Government for the time being, at the close of the Parlia- mentary Session, celebrate the prorogation of Parliament by a banquet of this description. About 3 miles from Greenwich is Wool- ■wich, with a population of nearly 50,000. lihe Arsenal is only shown by tickets, which can be obtained from the War Office in Pall Mall, and are available on Tuesdays and Thursdays, from 10 to 11^ a.m. and from 2 to 4^ p. m. It con- tains an immense store of arms of all descriptions, esteemed the largest in the world. The Royal Military Repository, on Woolwich Common, contains an assortment of ancient arms, and models of the various forts within the limits of the British Empire, and of vessels of war, &c. At the Royal Military Academy candidates for commissions in the Royal Engineers, and Royal Artil- lery receive their professional education. There is accommoda- tion for 160 students. I ENGLAND. LONDON. 137 EXCURSION. ■LONDON TO THE CRYSTAL PALACE. From Ludgate-hill, London-bridge, or Victoria, lU cUtss, Is. 3d. ; 2nd, Is. Return tickets, 1st, 2s. ; 2nd, Is. 6(t. ^'irst class return ticket, includil^ admission to the Palace, 2s. 6d. on ordiiutrif daifs. From Victoria to the High Level Utalion, fares as above. |i^-^ H E country ^3 tC{ Wllic-h wo f.llS! through iss is ra- ri^u wj-. J piiUy beconung a mere ^>6^^ suburb of London; de- tached villas and rows of houses displacing the trees and hedge- rows in every direction. The journey is effected in about 20 minutes from London Bridge, and about half-an-hour from Victoria. ( Hotels : Queen's, U ppor \orwood ; Crystal Palace). The Crystal Pa- lace was constructed from the ma- terials of the Great Exhibition of 1851, and nearly upon the same plan ; it was opened by the Queen in 1854. Itslength is about 1500 ft., its width nearly 400 ft., and it is about 200 ft. high at the centre of the principal transept. It is divided into Courts, many of them containing reproductions of the architecture and works of art which have come down to us from ancient times. They are as follows: The F.i^ijptian, Assyrian, Greek, Roman, Alhambra, Biizan- line, MediiCval, Renaissance, Pom- peian, Italiammd Modern Sculpture Courts. There are also other Courts devoted to specimens of every branch of manufacturing industry, which are also displayed in the galleries and transepts of the building. In other parts of the structure will be noticed choice collections of plants be- longing both to temperate and tropical climates in all parts of the world, the temperature being carefully rcgulatiMl in accordance witli tlicir ri'iiuirements. The grounds e.xtenu ovijr about 200 acres, and ha ve been laid out under the directions of the late Sir Joseph Paxton, who also designed tno Palace. They contain terraces and grassy slopes, beautifully diversi- fied with flower-beds, vases, and rock-work; a lake with boats for the use of visitors, an archery ground, &c. A' ear the border of the lake, at one end, the tourist will observe certain colossal mo- dels of extinct animals — the Icthy- osaurus, Megatherium and many others. The fountains, which play on fete-days (for announcements of which see the news-papers), are amongst the chief attractions of the place. The largest throws a jet of2;30ft. high. Ilefreslnni'uts may be obtained within the Palace at moderate rates. Route 33. soutiia:\ipto\ to LONDON. 78| mites ; 1st class, 15s. 6d, ; 2nd, lis. ; 3rd,6s.6d. ^,5>^^0UTII A:\IPT0X (Ho- t'S~>>cture, are still occupied for their intended purpose. Leaving Winchester, we pass through a tunnel, and over a nigh embankment, to Andover Road Station (2'2 miles), near whicli, on the right, we see Styalton Park, the seat of Lord iS' ortlibrook, wliero there is a fine collection of paint- ings. On the right, beyond 15a- siNCSTOKK (32^ miles), we observe the ruins of lia^ins; House, cele- brated for the gallant defence which was made here by the Mar- quis of Winchester against the parliamentary forces. Close to the station, on the left, we see the ruins of The Holy Ghost Chapel, built in the reign of Henry VIII. by Lord Sandes, for the promo- tion of " works of piety, ciiarity, and religion." It was suppressed in the reign of Edward \'l., re- vived in that of Phili]) and ]Mary, and finally closed by James I. The revenues of the estate are now devoted to the support of a school. During the Saxon Hep- tarchy there was a burial-ground here, and it is asserted that tliere was once an ancient Saxon church in wliich seven kings offered their devotions at the same time. The edifice is of brick, faced with free- stone. On the south side, between the windows, are pedestals witli niches above them, in whicli, it is most probable, statues were for- merly ])laced. The south and east ■walls alone remain, together with a hexagonal tower at the south- west corner, and a room adjoining it. Near Farnborough (4.if miles) we see, on the right, Aidershott Camp. We pass some stations of no importance, and reach King- ston (66f miles). In this town we may see the stone on which the Saxon kings sat to be crowned. About 6 miles fartlicr is ll'imble- don Stiilion, near whicli is the com- mon, on which tiie annual shooting matches undi-r the auspices of the National \'olunteer Rifle Associa- tion are held. About a quarter of an hour afti'rwards we reach the \\'aterloo terminus. EXCURSION TO THE ISLE OF ^VIGHT. a^^k'^^ IIEmostconvenient wav \jp Kiia ot reaching tiie Jsle ot ^^; sCjH ^Vight from London is i^iTT^j^ by the Brighton Rail- way (Victoria or London Bridge Station) to Portsmouth {Hotels: George, Fountain), the greatest of the British naval stations, thence by tramway about one mile to the SouTHSKA PiKii (Pier Hotel). Steamers leave tlie pier, on the arrival of each train from London, for R vDE ; time 2.5 minutes. Rvde (Hotels: Pier, Eagle) is one of the most attractive and fasliionable watering-places in the south of England. From this place there is a railway' to Ventnor by Brading, Sandown, Slianklin, and \\ roxall ; time 35 minutes. From Ryde, coaches leave daily for Newport, the capital of the island ( Hotels : Bugle, Greeti Dragon). From Vent- nor, coaches go several times daily to St. J.,awrence, Niton, Black- gang, Fresliwater, and Alum Bay, and a coach leaves several times a day for Newport via Godshill. Tourists may reach the Isle of Wight by way of Southampton (Route 33), whence steamers go many times a day to Cowi:s (Ho- tels: Fountain, George) and to Ryde. A ferry conveys pa.ssen- gers from Cowes to East Cowes, near wiiich is Osborne House, the Queen's marine residence. \'isitors are not admitted to the house or grounds. Tourists taking the route by 142 ISLE OF WIGHT. ENGLAND. Portsmouth and Ryde, and who desire to make the whole tour of the island, will find it more con- venient to take the railway at Ryde, Stopping at Shanklin {Hotel : Daish's,) over a train to see the celebrated Chine, and thence proceeding to Ventnor (Hotels: Marine, Royal, Esjdanade, Crab and Lobster), by rail, where, at the station, coaches are found ready to convey passengers to all parts of the island. Persons preferring to hire private conveyances, will find excellent horses and carriages at Ventnor. The route usually taken from Ventnor is via St. Law- rence, Nilon and Blackgang Chine to Freshwater and Alum Bay. Among the objects best worth seeing on the route between Ryde and Freshwater, are the following — Shanklin Chine, one ofthe most attractive scenes in the island, and universally admired for its ro- mantic character. This chasm owes its origin to a small stream of water which rises in the higher part of the valley. After nearly a mile, in some parts in a deep channel almost liidden by over- hanging trees and underwood, it reaches the head of the chine, where it precipitates itself over a ledge of the cliff, in a cascade of above 30 feet. From the fall, the chine takes a serpentine course for about a quarter of a mile, gradu- ally expanding, till at the sea-shore it is nearly 200 feet deep, and 100 yards wide at the top, more or less abruptly contracting to the bed of the stream. Shanklin, and the neighbouring village of Sandown, are pleasant summer watering-places, and are rapidly increasing in population. Ventnor.— One of the most beau- tiful towns in England, situated in the centre of the famous Under- CLiFF, and remarkable for its mild and salubrious climate. It is a favourite resoi-t of consumptive.'. The National Hospital for Con- sumption is established here. East of and adjoining A^entnor, is the beautiful village of Bonchurch (Bonchurch Holel). In the grave- yard of the old Church is buried the Rev. W. Adams, the author of "'J'he Shadow of the Cross." A mile west of Ventnor, is Steephill Castle, the residence of Colonel Vernor. At .St. Lawrence, is the famous church, long tlie smallest parish church in England, having been, before its recent enlarge- ment, only 25 ft. long by 12 ft. wide. Blackgang Chine (7 miles) (Hotel.) The character of this chasm is the very reverse of that at Slianklin ; for here neither tree nor shrub adorn its steep shelving sides, which are upwards of 500 ft. high, and in a state of constant decay; the soil is of a dusky hue, and the only relief to its gloomy aspect some horizontal strata of freestone. The most striking feature is a large cavity on the beach ; this receives a little rill (the original cause of the chine), which falls over a project- ing ledge about 70 ft. high, and when increased by heavy rains, has a grand effect, especially if viewed from within the basin. At Blackgang is kept the skeleton of a whale, taken near the west end of the island in 1841, and which was one of the largest ever caught on the English coast. Respecting the origin of the term Blackgang, the tradition is, that it was formerly the haunt of a gang of pirates. Twelve miles beyond Blackgang, is Fresuwater Bav. (Hotel: Lambert's.) This bay is distinguislied on the east side by two remarkable iso- lated rocks, one of a conical form, the other a bold irregular arch. IVutcomb Bail, which may be con- fNOLAND. ISLE OF niaiiT. 143 sidered a portion or continuation of Freshwater 15ay, is remarkable for a curious pyramidical rock, and numerous caves of considerable depth communicatin'^ with one another. From Freshwater Gate, the chalk cliff's extend about three miles. Jn some places they rise perpendicularly trom the sea to the heiglit of (SUO ft. A road extends from Fresh- water nearly to the westernmost point of the island. From this point the view is one of great extent and beauty, embracino- The Needles and the unrivalled scenery of Alum Bay. The Needles are five rocks, of which three only preserve their original height. Their forms bear little resemblance to their name, which was derived from a pointed rock 120 ft. in height, which fell in 176-i. The new light-house on the westernmost Needle, is about 100 ft. in height. To the east of the Needles is Scratchell's Hay, where parties who come by water usually land. The great object of attraction here is an immense con- cave recess in the face of the clilT, which presents to tlie spectator, properly placed, the imposing ap- pearance of a magnificent arch, nearly 300 ft. high, whose lofty outlines spans a scene of singular beauty and grandeur: themajestic cliffs, so remarkable for thedelicate tracing of the flints, retire in beau- tiful perspective, and descending in a series of picturesque pinnacles, are terminated by the N eedles. On the north side of tlie pro- monotory is Alum Bav {Hotels: Neddies, Alum Bail), so named from that mineral having been found on its shore. Its celebrity is owing to a beautiful and unicjue feature, an extensive series of alternating coloured sands and ochreous earths, disposed in vertical strata of va- rious thickness, and so bright arc the tints as to be justly compared to the stripes on tiie leaves of a tulip, or the shades of silk. From \'entnor coaches leave several times a day for Newport. Passing on tiie way (2 miles) ylp- puldnrcombe, a lino house with spacious ground, formerly the pro- perty of the Earl of Varborough. A detour may be made to visit tlie cottage of the " Dairyman's Daughter," at Arreton, and the churchyard where she is buried. Newport may also bi; reached from Cowes by railway — 4i miles. The population of this village is 7,9.50. Jn the parish churcli, in 1793, the coffin of the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of Charles I., was discovered. She was a pri- soner in Carisbrook Castle, at the time of her death. In St. Thomas Church, Newport, is a superb monument erected to her memory by Queen Victoria. Caris- brook is one mile from Newport. The church is reputed to be of great antiquity, and to have been built on the site of a Saxon church, which was in existence for some centuries before the Conquest. Near the church are the remains of a Cistercian Priory. The ruins of Carisbrook Castle, covered with ivv, rise above a steep hill close by. The Keep, supposed to have been a Saxon fortress, towers above the rest of the buildings. The outer walls of the castle en- closed about 20 acres. Visitors are shown a well 240 ft. deep, from which the water is drawn by a wheel turned by an ass. An- other well, partially filled up, is said to be much deeper. In 1647, Charles I. was a prisoner here. Pleasant excursions may be made from Newport in various directions. To the north-east are Fernliill and Wottcn Bridge. The fonner has beautiful grounds. On the coast, about 2 miles from 144 R^ute Si.^LONDON TO WINDSOR. ENGLAND, Wotton Bridge, is King's Quay, where, it is said, King John landed, after signing Magna Charta at Runnymede. Ij miles from Wotton Bridge are the ruins of Qitarr Abbey, built in the 12th century. It was so called from the stone quarries in the neigh- bourhood. EouTE 34. LONDON TO WINDSOR AND STOKE POOLS. 21|- miles; 1st class, 3s. 9d. ; 2nd, 2s. lOd.; 3rd, Is. 9d. Return tickets, 1st class, 5s. 6d. ; 2nd, 4s. 3d. •INDSOR may be reached in about an hour by the Great Western Railway. Trains run many times a day. Trains run also many times a day upon the South-Western Railway (Waterloo Station). The stations of both railways at Windsor are Tery near the Castle. The first- named route is the shortest, and is the most convenient for persons re- siding in the West End of London. The state apartments are shown to visitors on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, during the absence of the Queen. The hours of admission are : — from 11 to 4 between 1st of April and 31st October, and from 11 to 3 from 1st November to 31st March. Tickets may be had of Messrs. Colnaghi, 14, Pall Mall East; Mr. Wright, 60, Pall JMall; of Mr. Mitchell, 33, Old Bond Street ; and at tlie office of the Lord Chamberlain, near the entrance to the Castle. (To prevent dis- appointment it would be well before leaving to enquire at the places mentioned above if the state apartments are open.) The private apartments of the Royal family can only be seen by a special order from the Lord Chamberlain. It is proper to add that such an order is almost inva- riably refused. Leaving the Paddington Sta- tion, we pass several unimportant places before reaching Slough (I85 miles). Here formerly stood the observatory, where some of the most important astronomical discoveries of the present and last centuries have been made by the Herschels. There is a branch line from Slough to Windsor (2f miles), (Hotels: Castle, White Hart). Population, 9520. Good cabs are always to be found op- posite the main entrance to the Castle for excursions in the Forest, to Virginia Water, &c. This town is remarkable only for its Castle, which was origi- nally founded by William the Conqueror as a mere fortress or hunting post. It has since been added to by his successors, who made it their residence, and is now become one of the most im- posing royal palaces in existence. It has been vastly extended and modernized since the accession of George IV. under the superinten- dence of Sir Jeffry Wyatville, and is the principal abode of the Sovereign. Windsor Castle is the very beau ideal of a feudal stronghold. Erected on an eminence, it over- ENGLAND. Route M.— LONDON TO UlNDSOH. 145 looks the Thames for many miles of its course. As to its internal arrangements, it consists of two quadrangles, the lower icard and tlie upper ward. It has tliirteen towers, containing several mag- nificent apartments, amongst which are the state drawing- room, dining-room and ball-room, tlie great octagon-room, which has an area of about 3i^ ft. in diameter, and the keep or round tower, in the centre of tlie castle. The and adorned with statues in mar- ble and bronze. On the north and east side of the Ciistle is the little park, the circumference of which is about 4 miles. Here the tourist will see an old oak, commonly called " Heme's Oak," and sup- posed to be the identical tree men- tioned by Shakespeare, It was reputed, in foraier times, to be haunted by the spirit of llerne the hunter, whose weird manifesta- tions have been described by ETON COLLEGE. paintings are very fine, consisting, in a great measure, of the v.orks of the old masters, togetiier with more modern pictures of a high order of merit. There are also several beautiful bronzes and mar- bles, chiefly in the great corridor, which extends, 520 ft. in length, along the south and east sides of the court. The terrace affords a delightful promenade, and the garden beneath, which is reached by a flight of steps from the east terrace, is beautifully arranged, Harrison Ainsworth in his his- torical romance of " Windsor Castle." On the south of the castle lies the great park, in which is the Long Walk, extending from the precincts of the castle to Snow- hill, a distance of ,'3 miles. On each side is a row of venerable elms, many of them fast falling into decay. On Snow-hill, at the end of the Long-walk, is a colossal bronze statue of George III. In this park is Frogmore Lodge, for some time the r-^sidence of 146 Route 3-1.— LOK DON TO WINDSOR. ENGLAND. ilie late Duchess of Kent, rind now in the occupation of the Prince and Princess Christian. The Mausoleum, erected by the Queen, in memory of the late Prince Con- sort, and in wliich his remains are entombed, is visible from tlie Long-walk. At the southern ex- tremity of the great park is Vir- ginia Water, the largest artificial lake in the kingdom. St. George's Chapel is a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture ; it is well proportioned, the roof is richly decorated, the windows contain elaborate designs in choice stained glass, and, over the stalls of the Knights of the Garter their banners are hung, and their escutcheons emblazoned in a long series commencing witli those of Edward III., the founder of the order. The great east win- dow was designed by West, his- torical painter to George III. A chapel was erected here, and dedi- cated to St. George by Edward III., but the present structure, which has been restored at great expense during the present reign, was commenced by Edward IV. A.D. 1461, but not completed until the early part of the sixteentJi century. Several of the kings of England have been buried here. The tomb of P2dward IV. is of steel, the work of Quintin Matsys; opposite to it is the marble tomb of Henry VI. Henry VI IT. and Charles 1. are buried under the choir. At the foot of the altar is a subterranean passage leading to the vault which contains the coffins of George III., George IV., William IV., and other members of the royal family. Stoke Poets is 5 miles from Windsor. Slough is the nearest railway-station, but it frequently happens that there are no carriages to be had at the Slough-station, and the tourist will find it more convenient to make the excursion from Windsor, stopping at the Slough -station on his return from Stoke Pogis, or going on to Windsor to take the train to London, The route is by Eton College, which is a mile from W^indsor, on the opposite side of the Thames, and which is a prominent object in the landscape from the castle. It is one of the most celebrated schools in the kingdom, and has had as pupils some of the most distinguished men of several gene- rations of Englishmen. Amongst others the poet Gray, who made it the subject of a well-known ode ; Sir Robert Walpole, Lord Bolingbroke, the famous Earl of Chatham, Horace Walpole, Fox, Canning, Hallam, and the Duke of Wellington. Stoke Pogis is an agricultural village. The manor was once held by W. Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania. This place is chiefly visited from its connection witli the poet Gray, who spent the greater part of his tranquil life, and is buried, here. The old manor-house, now destroyed, was the scene of his "Long Story," and the churchyard that of his best known poem, the " Elegy written in a country Churchyard." Close to the entrance to the park, in which the church is situated, is the monument erected to the me- mory of Gray by the late Mr. Penn. It is of freestone, and consists of a sarcophagus sup- ported on a square pedestal, with inscriptions on each side. Three of them are from his " Ode to Eton College," and tlie " Elegy." One is — " Hard by yen wood, now smiling as in scorn. Muttering his wayward fancies he would rove ; i:\GLAM). li,<,iie:il.—LO\DO\ TO WlXDSOIi. iir Now droopiiii!, woeful, wan, like one forlorn. Or cruzed with care, or eross'd iu hope- less love. " One morn I niiss'd hiinou the aeeus- tom'd hill. Along the heath, and near his favourite tree ; Another came : nor yet beside the rill, Nor np the lawn, nor at the wood was he." The luck's shrill clarion, or the ccboinK hum. No more shall rnase them from their lowly bud." A short way br^^-ond tlio monu- ment, across the jiark, is tlie littlo Ciivncii and tlio Cihuciiyard, wliere Gray wrote the Klegy, ancl wlicre he lies in the same tomb sroKK roGis ciilhcii. On anotlier side is the following, " Beneath those rugged elms, that yew- tree's shade, \\Tiere heaves the turf in many a mouldering heap, Kach in his narrow cell for ever laid. The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep. "The breezy call of incense-breathing morn, Theswallow twittering from the straw- built shed, with liis mother and aunt. The tomb, which is near the south-east window, is of plain brick, covered with a slab of blue slate. A small tablet in the wall, under the win- dow, opposite the tomb, records tiie fact that the poet is buried there. The inscription on the slab which covers the tomb was written by Gray, as follows: " In the vault beneath are deposited, in hope of a 148 Roule 34.— LONDON TO WINDSOR. England. joyful resurrection, the remains of JMary Antrobus. She died unmar- ried, Nov. 5, 1749, aged 66. Inthe same pious confidence, beside her friend and sister, here sleep the remains of Dorothy Gray, widow ; the tender, careful mother of many cliildren, one of whom alone had the misfortune to survive her. She died jMarch 11, 1753, aged 67." Gray's description of the church- yard " Beneath those rugged ehns, that yew- tree's shade, Where heaves the tnrf in many a mouldering heap," is literal. The whole scene is im- pressive, and a visit to this quiet and beautiful spot will well repay the tourist, both by its intrinsic beauty, and its associations witli poetry and tlie past. " I have no pleasanter recollec- tions of lingland than those con- nected with our visit on that dreamy September afternoon to the scene of my favourite poem, the Cliurchyard of the little rural church at Stoke, that quiet and lovely spot which the poet has so well described, and where, almost * beneath that yew tree's shade,' he has his appropriate resting- place."— W. B. Route 3-j. LONDON TO OXFORD, Stratford -ON -Avon, Warwick and Kenilworth, (including Coventry and Birmingham.) From London io Oxford, 63^ miles, first class, lis. ; second, 8s. 4d. ; third, 5s. 3d. Return tickets, availdblejor two days, Jirst class, 18.S. 6d. ; second, 14s. From London to Stratford-on-Avon, 110 miles; Jirst class, 20s. lOd. ; second, 15s. 5d. ; tirird, 9s. 2d. Return tickets, available for tuo days, first class, 34s. 9d.; second, 25s. 9^^ \N Excursion may be made from London to Stratford - on - Avon, Warwick, and Kenil- worth, and back to London in a single day, but it would be im- possible, in that case, to see Ox- ford, or to take more than a cur- sory view of the objects of interest at the other places. In two days a tourist might make the same ex- cursion, stopping at Oxford long- enough to visit two or three of tlie Colleges (Christ Church, New, and Magdalen recommended), and going on to Stratford by Leaming- ton. Stratford may be reached early enough to allow a visit to the chief objects of interest in the same afternoon. The most con- venient way of reaching Warwick and Kenilworth is by carriage from Stratford (the proprietor of the Red Horse Inn furnishes comfort- able carriages at reasonable rates) to Warwick, where the Castle and other objects of interest may be visited in an hour or two, and con- tinuing on to Kenilworth. The ruins of the Castle are a mile from the railway station. It is better ENGLAND. Rotiie35.—LO\DON TO OXFOIW. 119 to direct the coacliman to drive •directly to the Castle, and to wait at the entrance until the ruins are visited, and then convey the tra- veller to the station. A local rail- way is completed from Kenihvorth to Leaminj:^on, where trains may be found for anj' j)oint in England. Leaving London by the Tad- dington Station, we pass, on the right, Keiisal Green cemetery, and, shortly after, on the left, liunuell (7}j miles), wJiere we obsen-e the ancient existing scat of classical learning in England, its origin being too remote to be traced with certainty, tiiough tradition iiscribes its foundation to Alfred tlie Great. The University con- tains 10 Collcires and 6 Halls, each of which has a separate ad- ministration, though governed by tlie statutes of the University, and the rules prescribed by the foun- der, so far as tliey are adapted to modern usages. Tlie CoUesres oxroKD. handsome buildings of the [Middle- sex Lunatic Asylum. Near Lang- ley (16 miles), is Richings Lodge, formerly the residence of Pope. "We pass Slough (18| miles), leav- ing the towers of Windsor Castle on tlie left, and, proceeding through a beautiful and richly-wooded country, through Reading (35J miles) and other places of no special interest, arrive at Oxford (63^ miles). (Hotels: Randolph, Mitre). Population in 1861, 27,561. Oxford is a pleasant city, situ- ated near the confluence of the his with the Cheruell. It is cliiefly as beina: the most interesting are maintained by tlic estates at- tached to their foundation, or do- voted by benefactors to the pur- pose. The Halls, not being cor- porate bodies, have their ]>roperty held in trust for them by the Uni- versity authorities in their corpo- rate capacity. University College claims to be the oldest, dating its foundation back as far as 872, Balliol and Merton Colleges coming next in order, and dating from the l,?th century. The general plan of all these buildings is much the same, forminga hollo wquadrangle, with the apartments of the stu- dents ranged around and within it. The degrees conferred are those 150 lioute SB.—LONDON TO OXFORD. ENCiLAND. of Bachelor and ISIaster of Arts ; Bachelor and Doctor of Music ; and in the Faculties of Civil Law, jNIedicine and Divinity. By re- cent legislation it is no longer necessary that the student should belong to any particular College or Hall, and it is at present con- templated to throw open to dis- senters from the Established Church of England the scholar- ships and fellowships which have hitherto been restricted to mem- bers of that communion. There are four terms in the year, Michaelmas, Hilary, Easter, and Trinity ; the two first may be kept by a residence of six, and the two latter by a residence of three weeks each. Twelve terms' residence are required for the de- gree of B.A., except in the case of peers, their sons, and other pri- vileged persons, for whom eight terms are sufficient, if matriculated as such. A Bachelor of Arts may proceed to his M.A. degree in his S7th term, if privileged, in his 23rd. The Professorships, of which there are many, are supported either from the University funds, grants from the Crown, or their private endowments. In point of architectural effect and the extent and grandeur of its buildings the most remarkable of the Colleges is Christ Church, its chapel being the Cathedral Church of tlie Diocese of Oxford. This church dates from 1154, and is principally Norman-Gothic, with additions in later styles. Cardinal Wolsey was the great benefactor of tliis College, as an- other great prelate, William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester and Lord Chancellor, was of New College, founded in 1386. The last named is a good example of a college as originally built and in the best style of English archi- tecture. In the chapel is pre- served the jewelled crozier of its founder. Magdalen College was founded in 1456 by William of Waynfleet, a predecessor of William of Wyke- ham in both his offices. Its build- ings are some of the most striking in Oxford, and its grounds, which include a deer-park, the most ex- tensive and beautiful. Here is an avenue known as "Addison's ^Yalk," the favourite resort of the great essayist whilst a student at this college. The complete list of Colleges and Halls is as follows, in the order of their foundation: — I nhersitij, Balliol, Merion, Eic- ter, Oriel, Queen's, A'eiii, Lincoln, All Souls, Magdalen, Brasenose, Corpus Cliristi, Christ Church, Tri- nitij, St. John's, Jesus, ]Vadham. Pembroke and Worcester Colleges ; St. Mary, Magdalen, New Inn, St. Alhan and St. Edmund Halls. The most important adjuncts to the University are the Bodleian Library and Picture Gallery, Theatre, Ashmoleun Museum, Rud- clijf'e Library and Observatory, Uni- versity Galleries and Museum, Bo- tanical Garde7is and the Taylor Institute (opened only in 1848) for the culture of modem lan- guages. A conspicuous object is the '' Martyrs' JMemorial " in St. Giles' Street, erected to Arch- bishop Cranmer, and Bishoji.s Latimer and Ridley, who were burnt near the spot where it stands in 1555. The University is re- jjresented in parliament by two members. About eight miles north-west of Oxford is Blenheim Palace, near JVoodstocli (Hotel: Bear), the most magnificent seat in the county, presented by the nation, witli the honour of V\ oodstock, to the first Duke of IMarlborough. The sum allotted for the building was ENGLAND. ]iotite 35— LOS DOS TO OXLOIW. IJl £500,000. If contains amono:st other art tn-asures ptiiiitiiii^s by Ranhael, iMurillo, Rubens, Titian anil \'andycic. The a^rounds arc extensive and beautifully laid out. Woodstock contains a haudsome Town-hall, built from the designs of the celebrated architect, Sir \V. Chambers. Glove-making is (86 miles), celebrated for ita ma- nufacture of plush, also for it.s cakes, cheese and ale, and presently reach Lkamincton (105J miles) (Ho- tels: Recent, Clarendon) ; popula- tion, 17,958; one of the prettiest and most fashionable watering places of its class in the kingdom. ADDISON S WALK. carried on extensively. Henry I. and Henry II. used frequently to reside at \V'oodstock, and it was here that the latter had a Maze constructed called " Fair Rosa- mond's Bower," for the purpose of concealing Rosamond Clifford from his wife. Queen Eleanor. The tourist will remember this place as the scene of Sir \V alter 5>cott's romance. Leaving Oxford, we pass Wood- stock Road (69 miles), Banburi/ From Leamington the tourist may continue on by rail to Stratford- on-Avon, returning to Leamington by Warwick and Kenilworth, a.^ suggested above, or may reverse his route, first visiting Warwick. The former is recommended as the most convenient and interesting. Stratford - on - Avon ( Hotels . Red Horse, Shakespeare), popula- tion, 3,672. It is a municipal borough, its privileges in that respect being 152 Route Z5.—L0K DON TO OXFORD. ENGLAND. tlie only relics of its ancient con- sequence, which has long de- parted, and it attracts the tourist only as the birthplace and place of burial of the " Bard of all Time," whose works will endure as long as the language in which they are written. The house in which he was born has been pur- chased by subscription, and will no longer be exposed to the ca- prices of its possessors as that iu which he passed liis declining years was allowed to be, but re- ligiously preserved for the reve- rence of posteritJ^ The ch urch is a large handsome cruciform structure, situated near the Avon, its more ancient portions in the Early English style, but the chancel in which the poet is buried and where his bust is placed is Late Perpendicular, The church presents many fea- tures of architectural and anti- quarian interest. The old half- timber house in the High Street, of which frequent mention is made in guide books, is only one of many in the neighbourliood with which Shakespeare must have been familiar. The thatched cot- tage of his wife, Anne Hathaway, is still to be seen in the neigh- bouring parish of Shottery, and the old mansion-house of Charl- cote is still in the possession of Sir Thomas Lucy's descendants. In the Town Hall are portraits by Wilson and Gainsborough, of Shakespeare and Garrick. There is a curious old bridge of 14arches, built in the 16th century, over the Avon, by which the town is approached from London. Still, while in Stratford, one idea overpowers all others in the mind of the tourist; he is in "Shakespeare land." As no visit to this spot, and the feelings which itexcites, have ever been described more vividly or in a more genial spirit, than by Washington Irving, we cannot do better than present that description for perusal: — " ' Shall not I take mine ease in mine inn V thought I, as I gave the fire a stir, lolled back in my elbow-chair, and cast a complacent look about the little parlour of the Red Horse at Stratford-on-Avon. The words of sweet Shakespeare were just passing through my mind as the clock struck midnight from the tower of the church in which he lies buried. There was a gentle tap at the door, and a pretty chambermaid, putting in her smiling face, inquired, with a hesitating air, whether I had rung. I understood it as a modest hint that it was time to retire. My dream of absolute dominion was at an end ; so, abdicating my throne like a prudent potentate, to avoid being deposed, and putting the Stratford Guide Book under my arm as a pillow companion, I went to bed, and dreamt all night of Shakespeare, the Jubilee, and David Garrick. The next morning was one of those quickening mornings which we have in early spring ; for it was about the middle of March. The chills of a long winter had suddenly given way; the north wind had spent its last gasp ; and a mild air came stealing from the west, breathing the breath of life into nature, and wooing every bud and flower to burst forth into fragrance and beauty. 1 had come to Stratford on a poetical pilgrimage. My first visit was to the house where Shakespeare was born, and where, according to tradition, he was brought up to his father's craft of wool combing. It is a small, mean-looking edifice of wood and plaster, a true nestling place of genius, which seems to delight in hatching its nestlings in by-cor- l.NGLANO. l{oute35.—LO\DOX TO OXFORD. loJ ners. The walls of its squalid <:hambers are covered witli names and inscriptions in every langiiar tin? place for two days, until the vault was finished, and the aperture closed again. He told me that he had made bold to look in at the hole, but could soe neither coffin nor CIIAXCEL OF STRATFORD CIURCH. a vacant space almost like an arch, through which one might have reached into his grave. No one, however, presumed to meddle with his remains, so awfull}' guarded by a malediction ; and lest any of the idle or the curious, or any col- lector of relics, should be tempted to commit depredations, the old bones; nothing but dust. It was something, 1 thought, to have seen the" dust of Shakespeare. Next to this grave are those of his wife, his tavourite daughter, iNIrs. Hall, and others of his fomilj. On a tomb close by, also, is a full length effigy of his old friend, John Combe, ot usurious memory ; on 158 Route 55.— LOXDOX TO OXFORD. knglaxd. wliom lie is said to have written a ludicrous epitaph. There are other monuments around, but the mind refuses to dwell upon anythin;j,- that is not connected with Shake- speare. His idea pervades tlio place; the whole pile seems but as his mausoleum. The feelings, no longer checked and thwarted by doubt, here indulge in perfect confidence; other traces of him may be false or dubious, but lie^e is palpable evidence and absolute certainty. As I trod the sounding pavement, there was something- intense and thrilling in the idea, that, in very truth, tlie remains of Shakespeare were mouldering be- neath my feet. It was a long time before I could prevail upon myself to leave the place ; and as I passed through the churchyard, I plucked a branch from one of the yew trees, the only relic that I have brought from Stratford." Irving proceeds, in the same happy strain, to give an account of his visit to Charlcote, the seat of the Lucys, which, however in- teresting, is too long for trans- cription here : we must, there- fore, content ourselves with a few of the passages more strictly ap- plicable to the personality of Shakespeare : " Indeed, the whole country about here is poetic ground; everything is associated with the idea of Shakespeare. Every old cottage that 1 saw, I fancied into some resort of his boyhood, where he had acquired his intimate knowledge of rustic life and manners, and lieard those legendary tales, and wild super- stitions, which he has woven like witchcraft into his dramas. For in his time, we are told, it was a popular amusement in winter even- ings, ' to sit round the fire, and tell merry tales of errant knights, queens, lovers, lords, ladies, giants, dwarfs, thieves, cheaters, witches, fairies, goblins, and friars.' . . . As I crossed the bridge over the Avon, on my return, I paused to contemplate the distant church in which the poet lies buried, and could not but exult in the male- diction, which has kept his ashes undisturbed in its quiet and hal- lowed vaults. What honour could his name have derived from being mingled in dusty companionship with the epitaphs and escutcheons and venal eulogiums of a titled multitude? What would a crowded corner in W^estminster Abbey have been, compared with this reverend l>ile, which seems to stand in beautiful loneliness as his sole mausoleum 1 The solicitude about the grave may be but the offspring of an overwrought sensibility; but Imman nature is made up of foibles and prejudices ; and its best and tenderest affections are mingled with these factitious feel- ings. He who has sought renown about the world, and has reaped a full harvest of worldly favour, will find, after all, that there is no love, no admiration, no applause, so sweet to the soul as that which springs up in his native place. It is there that he seeks to be gathered in peace and honour, among his kindred and his early friends. And when the weary heart and failing head begin to warn him tliat the evening of life is drawing on, he turns as fondly as does the infant to the mother's arms, to sink to sleep in the bosom of the scene of his childhood. " How would ithavecheeredthe spirit of the youthful bard, when, wandering fortli in disgrace upon a doubtful world, he cast back a heavy look upon his paternal home, could he have foreseen that, before many years, he should return to it covered with renown ; that liis name should become the boast and glory of his native place ; ENGLAND. Route 55.— LOS DOS TO OXFORD. 159 that his ashes sliould be carefully guarded as its most precious trea- sure ; and that its lessening sjiirc, on which his eyes were fixed in tearful contemplation, should one day become the beacon, towering amidst the gentle landscape, to guide the literary ]>ilgriin of every nation to iiis tomb." as gracefully applicable as when tiicy flowed from his pen. W'auwick (Hotel: Warwick Arms), population, 10,570. This is a place of considerable antiauity, but, except in connection with the Castle — which is one of the finest and best preserved specimens of the residence of a ijreat feudal /ff.W-^ .c*^ » \t.-^ WARWICK CASTLE. The garrulous matron, and the old sexton have, in the natural course of events, long since passed away ; but, with the excep- tion of the aspect of the church, which has been carefully restored, and the extension of the railway to the quiet town, the landscape, with its accessories, remains much as here described ; while the re- flections of the eloquent writer, who also is gone to his long ac- count, are, as they ever will be, baron in the kingdom — and the memorials of the great historical families by whom it has been pos- sessed, is of small importance. The Castle stands upon a steep rock, beneatli which tiie Avon flows, the cellars being excavated from the stone itself. The oldest portion is Cusar's Touer, 147 ft. nigh, the date of which is unknown. The Baronial Hall is a very spacious apartment, retaining much of its original character and furniture. 160 Route 35.— LONDON TO OXFORD. ENGLAND. In the suite of rooms sliovvn to visitors will be found an interest- ing collection of old portraits and armour. The famous Warwick Vase is preserved here. Next in interest to the Castle is St. Mary's church, of which the attraction is the Beauchamp Chapel, in which is the richly decorated altar, tomb, and effigy of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who died 1439. The lover of legendary lore may still hear many traditions respect- ing Guy Earl of Warwick, and his wonderful exploits. Kenilworth is about 5 miles north of Warwick, and is easily accessible by local line from Lea- mington. Tlie entire interest of this place centres in its Castle, the remains of which are very exten- sive, and in this, not so much from the important part which it has played in English history as a stronghold of Simon de Mont- ford, Earl of Leicester, and the insurgent barons, in the reign of Henry III., as from its having been the abode of Elizabeth's favourite, Robert Dudley, and the scene of the festivities and events connected with her visit to him described in the romance of Sir Walter Scott, to which it has given its name. The keep, called Ciesar's Toiver, the most ancient portion of the castle, has Avails in some places 16 ft. in thickness. The large ban- quetting-hall, 86 by 45 ft., built by John of Gaunt, may still be traced. The buildings of Leicester, al- though the most recent, are in the most dilapidated condition, through the bad quality of the stone, with the exception of the Gatehouse, which has been kept in habitable condition. Leamington is a convenient point from which to visit Coventry (9^ miles) and Birmingham (23i miles). Coventry (/fofei: King'sHead). Population, 40,936. This town was formerly the great seat of the rib- bon manufacture, which has much fallen off of late years, since the alteration of the duties on foreign silks in 1861. Watch, fringe, and trimming making, with the above, now aiford employment to a great part of the population. It has two ancient churches, of which the finest is St. Michael's, with a beautiful tower and spire, 303 ft. in height, and some good modern stained-glass windows, in memory of the late Queen Adelaide, and another commemorative of E. Ellice, formerly representative of the city in Parliament. St. Mary's Hall is the Guild Hall, in the Gothic of Henry VI. 's time, of very considerable dimensions, with a fine carved timber roof. 15elow the north window is a piece of tapestry, 36 ft. long and 10 ft. high, containing eighty heads, and' representing Henry VI., Queen Margaret, Cardinal Beaufort, Humphry Duke of Gloucester, and the principal court personages of the time. It has an oriel window, with some stained glass ; and there are some suits of armour. There are some popular pro- verbs connected with this place ; one, " true as a Coventry blue," based upon the stability of a blue dye, for which it was once cele- brated ; the other, in " sending to Coventry" all persons with whom further conversational intercourse is declined. The latter expression may probably owe its origin to Shakespeare, as he makes the re- nowned knight FalstafF say, in reference to his tatterdemalion troop of recruits, " I'll not march tlirough Coventry with 'em, that's flat ;" a person " sent to Coventry," therefore, is one with whom the speaker would not be seen to as- sociate. ENGLAND. RoiUe33.—LONDOX TO OXFORD. lol The place wliicli Coventry holds in the poj)ular mind, is mainly due to the legend of Lady Godiva, the wife of one of its early lords, Leo- fric, a Saxon Earl of iMcrcia, in memory of whom, witliin the j)re- sent century, an annual pageant, which has now become an occa- sional one, was kept up. The in- habitants, mucli oj)pressed by Iiis feudal exactions, applied to his lady, Codiva, for intercession on commantl, is declared to have been struck blind on the spot, and a i^rotescjue lij^ure, representinf^ him ])eej)in;^ tlirou;^h a liole in a wall, is still presi'rved. On the occasion of the pageant's taking place, a very lightly-clad female is still the leading character. From Co- ventry, 18i miles, and iij^ miles from Leamington is th(» flourish- ing town of rmiMiNGHAM (^Hotels: Great KENILWORTH CASTLE. their behalf. Thinking to evade compliance with his wife's request, whilst professing willingness to grant it, he offered to remit the tolls and customs of the town of Coventry, on tlie condition that she should, on a certain daj"-, ride through it in a state of perfect nudity. She accepted the con- dition, and fulfilled it (command- ing all persons to keep witliin their houses, and to refrain from looking upon her), by riding through the town, veiled only by her long hair. One individual only, who is said to have been a tailor, and who lives in legend as " Peeping Tom," having ventured to transgress the Western, Hen and Chickens, Queen's, North Western, &c.) Population, 296,076. This place, like Sheffield, was early known for the excellence of its manufactures. During the Civil War, it must have been a place for the manufacture of arms, as we read that wliilst it su])plied swords to tlie par- liament it refused them to the king. Although since playing a leading part in the furtherance of all the great questions which have occupied the attention of the states- men of the age, being at present represented by John IJright, who may be taken as a typical expo- 162 Route S5.— LONDON TO OXFORD. ENGLAND. nent of its school of politics, it has only attained tlie dignity of a mu- nicipal and parliamentary bo- rough since the Reform Bill. It is the centre of what is known as the " Hardware " district, in which numberless towns have sprung up through the contiguity of the Staffordshire coalfield, and have become celebrated for metal ma- nufactures of various kinds, but of which Birmingham still i-^- mains the emporium. It was called by Burke "the toy-shop of Europe." For guns, steel pens, buttons and otlier manufactures no town in the world can be named in competition witli it. To the man of business these are suffi- ciently well known, and to the tourist their enumeration would be simply tedious ; suffice it to say, that anything into the com- position of which metal largely enters may be obtained here. Gas was first successfully used here by Boulton and \^ att, whose names are so honourably known in con- nection with tlie perfection of the steam engine. The old churcli has been so overlaid by modern additions that none of its original characters are recognizable, al- though it contains some old mo- numents. The principal modern buildings are the Grammar School, the market, and the Town-hall. In the latter is one of the most powerful organs in England, and the Birming-hain Musical Festival held here has long held a conspi- cuous place amongst periodical entertainments of the kind. The organ is 45 ft. high and 40 ft. wide, has 4,000 pipes (the longest 35 ft. in length), 4 sets of keys, and nearly 80 stops. The Grammar School is one of the most important foundations here, having a revenue of £10,000 per annum, and 10 Exhibitions at the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge, There are about 450 scholars. Queen's College, founded in 1843, by charter, is a school of medicine, theology and law. The Roman Catholic College is a hand- some building designed by Pugin, TheBirminghamandMidlandCoun- ties Institute, near the Town-hall, founded in 1855, contains a mu- seum, lecture, news, and class rooms. (In addition to its railways, Birmingham has canal communi- cation with Liverpool, Hull, Lon- don and Gloucester. It now re- turns three members to parlia- ment.) Route 36. LONDON TO YORK, NEW- CASTLE -ON -TYNE AND BERWICK-ON-TWEED. (Route to Edinburgh.) 3-t2 miles ; 1st class, 66s. 3d. ; 2nd, 49s.; 3rd, 32s. f^a^ EAVING London from the King's Cross Station we reach Hatfield (17f miles). On the right we see Hatfield House, the splendid residence of the Marquis of Salis- bury. It was once the property of James I., who gave it to an ancestor of the Marquis in ex- change for another estate in tlie same county ( Herts) called Theo- balds. On the left we observe Brocket Hall, the seat of the late Lord Palmerston, and a short dis- tance further, Knebworth Park, where the great novelist, Lord Lytton, resides. On tlie right, near Stevenage (28^ miles), we see Panshanger Park, the seat of Earl Cowper. The pleasure grounds and picture gallery are shown to SNGLAND. Route 36.— LOXDOX TO YORK. 1G3 visitors. Wc iioxt iirrivcat Hitchin (32 miles), where brandies go, on the riglu to Cambridge, and on the left to Bedford and Leicester. Passings Huntingdon (58] miles), the next place of any importancu at which we stop is Petkubo- nouon {76imi\es), (Hotels : Great Northern, Lrown). The onlj ob- ject to delay tlie tourist here is the Cathedral, which is of lars;e size and of exceedingly massive structure, the body of the building being Xomian, enriched with a magnificent western front in the early English style. JNIostofthe monuments and shrines were de- stroyed by the Puritans under Cromwell, and the church gene- rally suffered, but there are still some of interest. Katherino of Arragon,the first Queen of Henry VIII. was buried here; and for a time, before her removal to W'est- minster Abbey, the unfortunate JMary Queen of Scots. There is a painting- upon the wall near the western entrance, of Kobert Scarlet, the sexton who "buried both the above queens, and a quaint old epitaph commemora- tive of the circumstance. He died aged 98. Passing sundry places of no in- terest, we reach Grani ham (105^ miles), (Hotels:^ Angel^ George), population, 11,116. A Parlia- mentary borough, said to have been founded in the fourth century. Money is said to have been coined here by King Canute. Its princi- pal trade is in corn, for which there are two Exchanges. Sir Isaac jVewton was a native of Woolsthorpe, in this neighbour- hood, and received some education in Grantham Grammar School. It has a handsome Parish Church, of the thirteenth century, with a lofty and elegant spire, and is connected witii tlie Trent by a canal 30 miles long. Belvoir Cattle, tin' magnificent seat of the Duke of Uuthiiid, con- taining one of the best collections of pictures in tlie kingdom, is about 5 miles from Grantham. 'I"he next place of any importance is XiiwARK-oN-TniNT (120mile3), (Hotels: Saracen's Head, Clinton Arms), a Parliamentary borough, population, 11,515. The castle of this place has been famous in Iiistory. Built by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, in the twelfth century, it was taken from him for rebellion, and held by the crown. When besieged by the Barons, in the reign of John, he came to its relief, and died here in 1216. It sustained three several sieges in Charles's interest, in the ci\nl war, and was only surrendered by his command to the Scottish army, after which it was dismantled. The parish church is very large and elegant, in a great part re- built during the reigns of Henries ^'I. and VII., but still preserving some traces of its previous Nor- man character. It contains some brasses and other ancient monu- ments. The town has a very large corn-market , in which article, and in malt, its trade chiefly con- sists. The branch of the Trent on which the town stands, is navigable for barges. [From Newark a branch goes westward to Linxolx (15^ miles). (^Hotels: Great Northern, Saracen's Head). Population, 21,000. This ancient city was a Roman station, and a place of great strength at the time of the Conquest. The Cathedral, Standing ujwn a hill, can be seen from a distance of many miles, and is one of the finest in England. It was founded originally in the reig^n of William Rufus, and rebuilt by Henry II. There is a Roman pavement in the cloisters. Amongst the monu- ments, are those of Catherine, wife IGl Route 36.— LONDON TO YORK. ENGLAND. of Jolin of Gaunt, and Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, tlieir daughter. There is a ruined Castte here, built by William Rufus. Amongst other points of attraction are the Chapter House, the ruins of John of Gaunt's Palace, and New- port Gate; this last a fine speci- men of ancient Roman architecture. In one of the public libraries is preserved a very ancient copy of Magna C/iar(a.] We presently reach Retford (138 1 miles), population, 6,500. The point where the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire line unites with the Great Northern. Retford is an ancient town, but has no attraction whatever to delay the tourist. It has a trade in corn, hops, and cheese. Large fairs for the sale of horses, cattle, sheep, &c., are held here at stated periods. [From Retford, by the rail- way above-mentioned, we may visit Sheffield (24 miles), {Ho- teh: Victoria, i^oya(), population, 185,172. This important town became a Parliamentary borough under the Reform Act of 1832, but only received its charter as a municipality in 1843. It had acquired a reputation for iron manufactures at the close of the thirteenth century, especially for faulchion heads, arrow piles, and the kind of knives called whittles. Its leading branches of industry were permanently settled here before the invention of steam, to which it owes their great perfection and extension. It has long been known for its manufactures of cutlery of all kinds, white metal, plated, and especially electro- plated goods. Every kind of arti- ficer's implement is made here upon the largest scale, however minute or ponderous. It is here that the rolled armour-plating for Avar-ships,now so indispensable in naval architecture, is principally made ; the works of two firms alone covering more than 40 acres, and employing several thousand men. It is impossible to enu- merate here the various kinds of metal manufactures and industries in which Sheffield is pre-eminent. All its public buildings are mo- dern. James Montgomery, the poet, and Ebenezer Elliott, the " Corn-law Rhymer," were in- habitants of the town, and have public monuments erected to their memory'. ] Leaving Retford, we shortly ar- rive at DoNCASTER (156 miles), {Ho- tels: Angel, J?oe&(icA:), ])opulation, 16,406. The town is pleasantly situated, and is famous for its races, held the third week in Sep- tember, the " St. Leger" being one of the greatest races of the year, and always attracting thou- sands of spectators. It was an old Roman station, but has all the appearance of a well arranged modern town, which is rapidly ex- tending. The Great Northern Railway Company have a large establishment here which employs a considerable number of work- men, amounting, with their fami- lies, to about 4,000 persons. The ancient church was destroyed by burning in 1853, and has been re- placed by another after designs by G. G. Scott. [From Doncaster, Hull may be conveniently reached via Thorne and Goole, distance 45 miles. Hull. {Hotels: Scation, Royal, George), population 98,000. Is situated at the mouth of the River Hull, where itenters the Humber, and is one of the principal ports of embarkation to Holland, Nor- way, and Sweden. It was anciently called Wyke- upon-Hull, but its name was changed to Kingston-upon-Hull XCLANI). liuuteSG.—LOXDOX TO VaiiK. 165 by Edward I. who afterwards made it a royal borougli. It lias numerous docks and a capacious harbour. The old part of the town, with theexception of the fini! mar- ket-place, in wiiich isScheemaker's equestrian statue of William III., is ill built with narrow streets, but tliat portion near the docks, consists of handsome streets and houses. Of the public buildings the most notahle are the Clunrlt of the Holi) Trinitti, a beautiful the (ireat, the residence of the Roman emperors when tlicy visited the province, and the placi- where tlio I'.inpprors Septimus Severus and Constautius Chlorus died. I'ortions of the Human walls still exist, and the foundations of the remainder have, from time to time come to liglit. I-rom the circum- stance that it is the chief city of the largest county in England, it has always preserved its relative importance. It is situated upon YOnK. Gothic structure, the transept of ■which is the oldest brick building in the county, and St. 3Iary's Church, Lowgate. There are se- veral good schools, various chari- table institutions, mechanics insti- tute, public library, museum, two theatres, concert hall, 6cC.] The next place of interest is York (191 miles), (Hotels: Sta- tion, Black Swan), j)opulation, •10,433. York is one of the most ancient cities of England, distinguished as having been the reputed birth- place of the Emperor Constantine the river Ouse,which flows through it, and, with the Trent, forms the estuary of the I lumber. Nocityin England has ]iln3-ed a more con- spicuous part in its history than this, and its titular dukedom has always been conferred upon mem- bers of the royal family, from its first creation to the most recent times. With the exception of London, it is the only city in Eng- land whose mayor is entitled to the designation of " Lord" during his tenure of office. '1 he Cathe- dral is one of the most magnificent edifices in existence, although it i66 Route 36.— LONDON TO YORK. ENGLAND. has suffered much from fire in the present century, once by the act of a fanatical incendiary named Mar- tin, in 1829, and in 1840, when its western tower with its fine peal of bells were destroyed through the carelessness of a workman em- ployed to repair the clock ; but the parts destroyed have been per- fectly restored. In the eighth cen- tury, York was celebrated as a school of divinity to which schc' lars resorted from various parts of the continent, one of whom was Alcuin, the friend of Charlemagne, tutor of his family, and founder of some of the most celebrated schools of his time in France. The Arch- bishop of York is second only in ecclesiastical dignity to the Arch- bishop of Canterbury, and bears the title of" Primate of England ;" in contradistinction to the title of the latter of" Primate of a/i Eng- land." The Guildhall is a fine Gothic building, with an oaken roof, adorned witli coats of arms and grotesque figures. The walls and some of the old gateways still exist in good pre- servation; the old castle has been converted into a prison ; the its principal courts are within boundaries. York was long a chief seat of the woollen manu- facture, but this has been trans- ferred to Leeds, Bradford, and other places in this and the adjoin- ing counties. Tlio Great Bell of the "Minster," by which name the Cathedral is best known, weighs Hi tons. Most of the churches are ancient, and of great interest to the antiquarian tourist. It has all the institutions of modern exigencies which are usually found in large cities. Although Yorkshire is now one of the busiest parts of England, and its natives are proverbial for their commercial slu-ewdness and money-making propensities, it was remarkable in the middle ages for tlie extent, magnificence, numbers, and wealth of its religious foun- dations, with the remains of which tlie face of the county is still studded, and to which crowds of ' tourists are still attracted by the beauty of the scenery in which they are situated, as much as by tlie picturesqueness of the ruins themselves. Of these may be particularly mentioned G?as- borough Priory, Fountains Abbey, Kirkhain Priory, Whitby Abbey and the Grey Friars' Tower, at Rich- mond. There are also many re- mains of castles in various parts of the county, amongst which may be mentioned Pontefract Castle, . where Richard II. was murdered, Knaresborough Castle, and Conis- boroiigh Castle, near Doncaster. [42 miles from York, by the North Eastern Railway, is Scarborough (Hotels : Grand Hotel, Crown, Royal, popu- lation 18,500): a seaport and fisldonable watering-place, situ- ated in the recess of a beau- tiful bay, on the borders of the German Ocean, and rising from the shore in the form of an am- phitheatre. The buildings on the cliff stand almost unrivalled in re- spect of situation, having in front a fine terrace nearly 100 ft. above the level of the sands, and commanding a variety of delightful prospects. Scarborough combines the advan- tages of sea-bathing with mineral baths. The springs, which are saline and chalybeate, are on the margin of the sea, and are sur- rounded by walks and ornamental grounds. There are numerous churches, a theatre, assembly rooms, libraries, interesting castle ruins, and a remarkable bridge, erected upon piers 75 ft. high, over a chasm 400 ft. wide, which separates the town from the spa. There is an extensive and com- ENGLAND. Route 36.— LOXDOX TO YORK. 167 modious liarboar, of easy access, jirotectod by two piers of sub- stantial masonry.] The i)rincip:tl stations beyond York, before arrivin;;^ at Duiliii":- ton ('235^ miles), are Tliirsk ('213^ miles), and Nortliallerton {2'2i^ miles). In the latter jiarish is the Standard Hill, where the great "battle of the Standard" was fought between the English and Scots in 1138, when the latter were routed with a loss of 11, (XX) men. From Darlington, where several lines converge, the tourist, if he please, may stop at Leam- side Junction, on the way to Tsewcastle-on-Tyne, and pay a visit to DiRHAM ('-'61 miles. Hotel: Couiitii), capital of the county of that name, a bishop's see, the seat of a university, and a very ancient citj', with a cathe- dral, esteemed one of the most magnificent in England, whicli fonns a conspicuous object in tlie landscape for many miles, 'llie larger portion is iVorman, with additions in all the later stvles of Gothic. The castle, founded by William the Conqueror, is also Norman, and is now in the pos- session of tlie University. The Magdalene Chapel, and the Dormi- tory of the ancient ^Monastery of Durham, should be visited. Leaving Darlington, we proceed througii a bleak country, noticing on our right, near Fence Hoaxes (260 miles), a monument to the memory of the late Earl of Durham, and soon afterwards reach Newcastle - o.v - Tyne (275^ miles), {Hotels: Countu, Turk's Head), population, 109,108. The chief town of Northumberland, and the oldest and principal ship- owning and coal-exporting market of the district ; the seat also of important manufactures, as loco- motives, steam engines, chemicals, &c., and of iron furnaces and foundries. Trade is carried on from tliis i)lace with every part of the world. Glass manufacture, for which this place was once famous, has been transferred of late years, to the adjoining district on the Wear. The great feature of Newcastle is the Hi;^li Level Bridge, a work of Robert Stejjhen- son, connecting it with Gateshead and the railways on tlie o])j)osite side of the Tyne. It is 1,."373 ft. long between the trium]ilial arches, 32 itt. wide, and has 312 ft. water- way. The roadway is 86 ft. above high water. It is supported by six massive stone piers, 125 ft. apart ; .5,0.50 tons of iron were used in its construction, and its total cost was nearly 235,000/. It is a double bridge, consisting of two roadways, one 25 ft. above the other, the lower being for carriages, foot - passengers, &c. ; the upper carrying three lines of rails. The church of St. Nicholas is ancient. The Ex- change is a large Ionic building, which includes the Guildhall and jMerchanfs' Court ; there are also many other public buildings. The castle from which it takes its name is still standing, and the restored chapel is used as a museum for tlie interesting Roman and other antiquities found here. It was built by Robert Curthose, sou of ^\'illiam the Conqueror. lietween Xeiicuitle and Bera-ick, at a sliort distance from the main line, is Alnwick Cattle, the magni- ficent seat of tlie Percy fiimily from about 1300 to the present time. It was formerly a very im- portant border fortress ; it is now celebrated as one of the grandest and most perfect feudal dwellings in the kingdom, very large sums having been spent upon its resto- ration by its recent possessors. The Castle covers 5 acres of land , i68 Route 36.— LONDON TO YORK. ENGLAND. and the grounds around it are very extensive, containinsj tlie ruins of two ancient Abbej'S. Malcolm King of Scotland, and his son, Prince Edward, were killed in 1094 ; and William the Lion was taken prisoner here in 1174, whilst besieging this Castle. The internal decorations are very splendid. In the town still re- mains a tower, with a gatewaj', called the Bondgate, having been formerly used as a prison. There is a branch to Alnwick (Hotel : White Swan), from Bilton (309f miles). Six miles from Aln- wick are the noble ruins of Warkworth Castle, also the pro- perty of the Duke of Northum- berland ; and at about lialf a mile distant is the celebrated hermit- age hewn out of the rock, the subject of one of Dr. Percy's bal- lads. It is said to liave been in- habited by one of the Bertrams of Bothal, in penitence for the mur- der of his brother. Near Lucifer (324 miles), about 3 miles distant on the riglit, are the remains of Bamborough Castle, recently re- stored, standing by the sea shore on a rock 150 ft. high. It was a Saxon fortress, built in the 7tli century. It was near this point that the heroine Grace Darling risked her life by assisting her father to save the ci-ew of the " Forfarshire." We pass close to the sea, and near Belford (327^^ miles), we see Holy Isle, with tlie ruined abbey and castle of Lindis- farne, alluded to in Sir Walter Scott's " jMarmion." W^e next reach Beiiwick upon Tweed (342 miles), (Hotels: Red Lion, King's Arms), population estimated at 13,265. From the situation of this town on tlie extreme northern limit of England, and its impor- tance as a fortress in the feudal ages, it possesses a curious history of its own, forming, as it did, an object of contention between the rival powers of Scotland and Eng- land for ages, and through vio- lence, treaty, or treachery, con- stantly changing the mastery of the one for that of the other. The temporary possessors invariably confirmed to the inhabitants their laws and privileges ; and, from long usage, they seem to have been eciually indifferent to the supremacy of either. The memory of this state of things has been perpetuated to our own times by the preservation of a separate jurisdiction, and the recognition of the neutral character of the locality, by its invariable mention in proclamations, acts of parlia- ment, &c., after the enumeration of more important divisions of the empire, as the " Town of Berwick upon Tweed." A considerable portion of the old walls, one of the towers, and some of the gates still remain, but are of course useless for defensive purposes. It was anciently the principal port of Scotland, but the absence of docks, the shifting cliaracter of the sands of the es- tuary, and the increased size of shipping, have driven its trade to more commodious localities. The Tweed has been renowned for the productiveness of its salmon fisheries for centuries ; and this fish, preserved in different ways, long formed its principal export ; it is now simply packed in ice. The Royal Border Bridge, which carries the railway across the Tweed, about half a mile above the old bridge, is a striking fea- ture in the landscape. The dis- trict is conspicuous in the statisti- cal returns for its freedom from crime. (Edinburgh to Berwick on Tweed, see Route 27). ENGLAND. lioide 37.— LONDON TO CARLISLE. 169 Route 37. LUX DON TO CARLISLE AND GLASGOW. 406 miles; First class, 70s. ; Second class, 51s. ; Third class, '33s. (From London to Crewe 15Q miles, see Route 32.) N leavinof Crewe, wo see on the right Bond Hill and Mow Cop, two of the higliest hills in Staf- fordshire, the latter rising; to an elevation of 109 ft. After passing: Minshull Vernon (1()'2| miles) we see, on the left, the Cheshire Hills and the mountains of Wales ; and, on a clear day, the view extends to those of Derbyshire. We next reach WiNSFoun (165J miles), celebrated for its saltworks, and, shortly afterwards, Hart ford (169| miles), near which is Xorth- nich also distinguished for its salt- works. Between these jilaces we cross the valley called Vale Rami, one of the most beautiful in the kingdom, in which we observe the tine mansion and grounds be- longing to Lord Delamere. Leav- ing Acton (172i miles) we tra- verse a fine viaduct, called Button Viaduct, of 20 arches, nearly a quarter of a mile in length. At Frestoii Brook (176^ miles) is the point of intersection between the Grand Junction and Brid!;euatcr Canals. Near Moore (179^ miles) we cross the River Mersey over a viaduct of 12 arches, and obtain a view of a beautiful valley riclily cultivated, and studded iiere and there with farm-houses and coun- try seats. We then reach 11 orr!»i,'- ton (182^ miles) (sec Route .31), and M i;?a)i (195y miles). For the stations and places of interest be- tween this place and Carlisle, see Route 29; for those between Car- lisle and Glasgow, see Route 13. KouTE 38. LONDON TO RRLSTOL A.\D SOUTH WALES. 118i miles; first class, 20s. 10 Table," which is the name given to the large Roman Amphitheatre, of which the outlines may still be traced, comprising an area of 222 ft. by 192 ft." King Arthur is said to be buried here. It was long a celebrated seat of learning and religion. Further down the channel, to the south-west, is Cakdifi- (Hotels: Curdilf Anns, Angel, White Lion), population, 32,9J1. Situated at the mouth of the small river Tajf', it has nothing in its general aspect to attract the tourist's attention but its elegant church tower, and tlie remains of the old castle, which is still occu- pied by the Marquis of IJute. Previous to the year 1839 all the trade of this place was carried on by means of the old canal and the small vessels for which it was adapted, with the exception of a few colliers wliich were laden out- side ; but since lliat period, mag- nificent docks of very large extent, have been constructed by the I\Iar- quis of Bute, to wliom the wjiole place belongs, which are thronged by ships of the largest size, of all nations, and by means of the rail- ways by which the district is in- tersected, CardiflF has become the greatest loading port in the Bristol (Miannel. The exports consist principally of railway-iron and coals. The jirospority of CarditI' has been reflected upon many of the neighbouring places, which, from the nn.-re villages whicli they were within tlie memory of the ])resent generation, have become flourishing and well-populated towns. In 18(H, the po]mlatioii of Cardiflf itself was only 1018. The gardens adjoining the castle are open to the public, by per- mission of the mariiuis. In the castle are many jiortraits of the Bute family, and works by Van- dyck, Knellcr, and others. In the county of (jlamorgan there are many remains of reli- gious edifices and feudal castles, of which the most remarkable are Mutiain and Meath Abbeys, Caer- philUi, Neath, !iuansea and Oyster- iiioitih Castles. Caerphilly is tlie nearest of these to Cardiff, and in extent and grandeur, as a ruin, surpasses any other in Wales. Distance from Cardiff about 8 miles. Nr.Aiii and Swanska are active sea- port towns, witli large copper and iron works in and about them. Near Swansea is the bathing-place called the Mum- bles, celebrated for its oysters, and around which are some very pretty smaller bays. The most important copper-works in the kingdom are in this district, ores being brought from Cornwall and all parts of the world to this place for smelting, on account of the abundant supply of fuel. Gower, the personal friend of Chaucer, and one of the earliest writers of English verse, is claimed as a native of Swansea. About 2 miles from Cardifl", prettily situated on a declivity sloping to the bank of the River Tatf, is Llandaff, still called a city, as the site of the Cathedral church of the Diocese wiiich bears 174 Route S8.— LONDON TO BRISTOL. ENGLAND. its name, but by coui-tesy only, as it has no positive claims to rank higher than a poor village, al- though it seems probable that the disposition to build villa resi- dences here, manifested by some of the prosperous traders of the neighbouring town, may finally convert it into a suburb of Cardiff. Tlie cathedral, commenced in 1120 and finished in 1200, is tlie only attraction. Its prevailuig archi- tectural features are early Eng- lish, but tliere are certain portions whicli are Norman. Route 39. BRISTOL TO CHEPSTOW, AND GLOUCESTER. To Ross 47^ iniles ; to Gloucester {by this route) 55 miles. [ROM Bristol we cross by rail or steamer to CI^:psTO^v (17 miles), {Hotels: Beaufort Arms, George), population 3,364; situ- ated about Sj miles above the junc- tion of the Wye and Severn, formerly a strongly fortified place ofmuchgreaterextent. The Castle stands on a cliff rising perpendi- cularly from the Wye. Its destruc- tion dates from the Civil Wars, during which its garrison made a desperate resistance to Cromwell himself. On the Restoration, Henry Marten, one of those wlio had sat in judgment upon Charles I. was kept here in confinement more than twenty years and is buried in the church : in which building, amongst the monuments is one of the second Earl of Wor- cester, of the Beaufort family. The tide rises here to a great height, bnt it is a place of no great commerce. In the town one of the old gateways remains. [About 4 miles from Chep- stow, by a most picturesque road, are the ruins of Tintern Abbey, among the most beautiful and per- fect ruins of its kind in Eng- land; it was founded in 1131. On the way to Tintern it is usual to leave the carriage at a point about Ij miles from Chepstow, and as- cend the irt/n(Z-c/(//', ahill970feet high, on one side of which is a nearly perpendicular precipice. From this elevation a magnificent view is obtained of the valley of the ^Vye, and the estuary of the Severn. The scenery along the Wye during nearly the whole of its course, is extremely delightful.] Tliirtyseven miles from Chep- stow is Grange Court Junction, where a branch of 7J miles takes us to Ross (Hotels : Royal, King's Head), population 3,715. The town stands upon what appears, from the Gloucester side, a gentle slope, but which is, from the Here- fordshire side, a rocky precipice overlooking the Wye. The church, occupying tlie most commanding position in its centre, naturally calls to mind John Kyrle, the " Man of Ross," immortalized by Pope in his " IMoral Essays." " Who taught the Heaven-directed " spire to rise." The poem goes on to record the various benefits conferred by Kyrle upon the town and neighbourhood : its sanitary condition, and the agreeable promenades in its vici- nity being due to his bounty. I'he spire of the church has been injured by lightning, at three dif- ferent times. In the church is a marble monument to Kyrle and others to the Rudhalls and West- failings, families long settled in the neighbourhood. A curious fea- ture, is the growth of three elm trees witliin the church in the north aisle, which are said to have sprung ENGLAND. Route 39.— BRISTOL TO CHEPSTOW 175 up spontaneously in Kyrle's pew, after the cuttiu<^ down of some which lie had planted in the churchyard. Near tlie bridjj^'e over the Wye, anil upon its banks, stands Wilton Castle, an old seat of the Grey family, from whose han; and but a few years afterwards the " sun of York," which, in the rfords of the play, liad here converteil " the winter of the discontent" of his ambi- tious house into " glorious sum- mer," set for ever oa Boswortli field. Route 40. LONDON' TO SALISBURY, EXETER, rLY:\IOUTH, AND LAND'S-END. iJ'JlJ miles l5f class, 46s. 6tl. ; 2nd, 32s. 10(/.; ;>,-iii{:>) SM.ISHVUY. 179 13islio)> I?()gL'r is siipno.sfd to bi- one ot' tlio oldest existing of its kind. It litis been seriously in- jured upon two occasions by light- ning, 'i lie cloisters are very large and exceedingly fine. 'I'liere are many old gable -ended houses, ■which give a niedia-val ajijiear- ance to those ])arts of the town where tliey are found. Among the modern improvements of Salisbury is the institution re- cently founded and endowed by Mr. \\ illiani JUackmore, of Lon- don, a native of this place, which is called the Bluckmore Museum, and is of especial interest to Ame- ricans. ^Ir. Blackmore, being in America during the late civil war, hearing that .Messrs. E. G. Squier and Dr. Uavis, in order to prevent the dispersion of their collections of American antiqui- ties (the most extensive ever made), had offered them to the Historical Society of New York, and that the price wliich they de- manded was considered too high, purchased them at the price- asked, and placed them in the Jiandsome building which he has erected to receive them. To these lie has added a great number of primaeval anti()uities from other sources, and the whole collection is exceedingly instructive to the student of pre-historic times. Massinger the dramatist, and Dodswortli the antiquary, were natives of Salisbury. The wonderful structure called by the Saxons Stonkiiknce, "the hanging stones," of unknown pur- pose and anti(]uity, is on Salisbury jdain, about 9 miles north of the city ; upon the jilain are also many ancient burial-places or tuiiDtli of various forms. Old Saruin is about 1^ miles from Salisbury, on the Marl- borough road. It consists simply of an oval entrenchment, with a smaller one, corre.sjioiidiiig in out- line, within it ; the area comprised within the larger is about 27.^ acres. From very early times until the ])assing of the Reform IJill in IKYJ, this place, without houses or in- habitants, returned two members to Parliament, while some of the great centres of industr) and popu- lation, such as Hirmiiigham and INIanchcster, sent none. It was the n:ost flagrant example of a " rotten borough." W'n.TON (86| miles) is cele- brated for its carjiet manufacture. Ill tlie neiglibourliood is Wilioii II iioe, the seat of tlie ICarl of Pem- broke, where SirPhilipSidneycom- l)0sed his "Arcadia." A few miles farther, on the right, is IVardour Cii^lle, the residence of Lord Arundel of W'ardour. During the civil war a force of ii.'y men held tiic fortress against 1300 of the Roundheads. Semleif (lOll miles) is the station for .b//i///?stH )• I/, w!:ich formerly contained a nun- nery, reputed one of the richest in the kingdom. Sherh'nie (118| miles), ponulation, in Ifitil, r)j23. The cliurch was a cathedral until the see was changed to Old Sarum, in the year 1075. A'ear the town is the Castle, the seat of Lord Digby, formerly the property of Sir \\ alter Raleigh. Ykovii. (1235 miles) is celebrated for its manufacture of gloves. Crew- Ki,i(NE (128 miles) is a small manufacturing town, situated in a pleasant vallej'. It has a hand- some Gothic church, the interior of which is profusely decorated with carved wood-work. A few miles beyond Chard (131^ miles) we have a beautiful view — on tlie left, extending to the English Channel ; and, on the right, the jirospcct reaches as far as the Bristol Channel. Homton (154J miles), is celebrated for its lace 180 Route 40.— LONDON TO SALISBURY. England. manufacturp, whicU lias, however, considerably declinedof late years. We next arrive at Exeter (171 J- miles), (Hotels: Clarence, New London), the county town of Devon, a city and bishop's see ; having- access to the coast by means of a canal 5 miles long, commenced in the reign of Eliza- beth, but subsequently lengthened and deepened, so as to permit ves- sels of considerable size to co.ne up to the city. It has no special manufacture. Exeter is very pic- turesquely situated on the banks of the Exe, and has been a place of importance from early British times. It has still, in its build- ings, many indications of its an- tiquity. Its principal feature is its Cathedral, built upon the site of an older one which was destroyed by King Stephen. Com- menced in 1280, the choir was finished in 1318, and the nave in 1327. It consists of a nave, with two side aisles, two short tran- septs, under the two low Norman towers, a choir, ten oratories or chapels, and the Chapter House. The whole building, from east to west, is 408 feet in length. The western front is ornamented with niches and elegantly carved effi- gies of saints and kings, and its facade is one of the most striking in' the kingdom. The Chapter- house is a beautiful building, with a handsome oak ceiling, and contains the (Cathedral library. vVmongst otlier ancient documents preserved here is the original Exon Domesday Book, and the charter of King Stephen. In tlie north tower is the " Peter Bell," weigh- ing 12,500 lbs., and a clock of curious and antique construction ; in the south tower is a peal of 11 bells, the power of which may be judged from the fact that the tenor weighs 2,000 lbs. The interior is very fine ; and the eftbct of the Early English clustered columns of the nave, with their pointed arches supporting the stone roof, is very impressive. The screen, which' separates the nave from the choir, is of exquisite workmanship and universally admired. The tourist will observe the re- mains of the Castle of Roiigemont, said to have been built by William the Conipieror upon the site of an older fortress. .Many Roman an- tiquities liav^e been discovered here. There are several public buildings, and a Park, named after the present Queen. Cardinal Langton ; SirT.Bodley, founder of the Bodleian Library at Oxford ; Hudson, the master of Rejnolds ; Joanna Southcotc ; and the late Sir William FoUett, whose statue is in Westminster Abbey, were natives of this place ; and the late Dr. Henry Philpotts, a man of mark in his day, the election of whose successor, Dr. Temple, has recently caused so oTeat a commotion among church- men, was for a very long period its Bishop. After leaving Exeter, we see, on the left, hej-ond Exminster (l~5j miles), Powderham Castle, the seat of the Earl of Devon, sur- rounded by a park of 10 miles in circumference. Here, it is said, William III. passed a night while on his way to London, after the revolution of 1688. Dawlisii (183^ miles), (Hotels: London, York) is one of the most delightliil watering-places in Eng- land. The scenery inland, and the views along the coast,are alike in the highest degree attractive. The next "station is Teignmouth (186* mihs), (Hotels: Royal, Queen's, Decon Anns), popula- tion 6,022. This is also a much frequented watering-place, and a town of great anti(iuity. The climate, like that of Dawlish, is ENGL.WI). Route H\—LO\DO\ TO .S.tl.ISnUllY. 1C1 remai-kably mihl, and well suitoil to invalids, iiiiiubcrs of whom re- sort to it. Near 'ri'ii;nin()utli is a wooden bridije ot" .') I arches, said to be the lonijest in England. At Newton Ji-nciion (11)1^ miles) there is a branch to '1"oi;qi'av, (3 miles distant, a noted jdace of re- sort for consnmj)ti\"c patie-nts. It was at Newton that the Prince of Oranije (afterwards William III.) made his first T)roclamation after landini^ in JCnu:land at the invita- tion of the Parliament. Toi n£ss (200| miles) is a town of about IjOOO inliabitants, on ihe river Dart. A\ e see the ruins of its ancient walls and castle. At a distance of two mihs, on the left, are the fine remains of Beny Pomeroy Castle, tlie property of the Uuke of Somerset. After jiassing Totnrss we proceed through a tract of conntry called Dartmoor Forest ; the greater part is now under cultivation, and presentsan exceedinijly pleas- ing j)rosj)ect. ^^'o find nothing worthy of jiarticular mention be- fore arriving at Plymoi in (221i- miles), (Ho- tels: Royal, Commercial, Globe), population 62,600. Plymouth, Stonehouse, and Devonport, witJi their suburbs, may be treated as one town, being as intimately united as London, Westminster, Southwark, and L.ambetli ; al- though, since the Reform Bill, .Devonport and Stonehouse, ex- ceeding Plymouth in population, have been incorporated, and, like it, return two members to Parlia- ment. Plymouth is the eastern- most of the three, at the head of the Sound, and is the commercial port, wliile the principal Govern- ment establishments are situated in Devonport. The harliour com- prehends the sound and its vari- ous arms. The estuary- of the Tamar, called Hamoaie, forms a Iiarbour 15 fatlioms deep at low tide, and four mili-s long, for war .ships; and the estuary of the Plyn., chiefly used by merchant shi|)s, trans])orts, i\c., is anolhrr, called Cutwater, capable of accom- modating an immense number of vessels. St retching across the en- trance of the sound is a magnifi- cent Iireukuater,a mile in length, commenced in 1812; it has cost an enormous sum, but the ])rotcc- tion to tlie harbour which it af- fords is invaluable. In the mid- dle of tlie Sound is Drake's or Aicholas ]sluit. It will be noticed that the I'.nglisii dialect spoken here is still peculiar. Route 41. LOXDO.X TO LEICESTER, DERBY, LEEDS AND BRADFORD. (I3y Midland Railway.) 'il'JJ miles ; lit class, S3s. 9il. ; '2nd, t!5s.3d.i Sid, I5s. iOf^d. tion, the first place of consec|uence at which we stop is BKDFonD(47miles),(//()(e/s: Suan, George), population, l;5,413. It is situated on both banks of the Oiise, and is a place of great anti- rison he composed his " Pilgrim's Progn^s." There is a consider- able trade here in corn, malt and timber. The manufacture of lace and straw-plaiting are also sources of industry to a great part of the population. ( Branch lines go from J5edford to Cambridge, Bletcbley and Oxford). Near ire//in;^6o- roiigh (Ooi miles) are some medi- cinal springs, and it is said that Charles I. and his Queen spent a summer here in order to obtain the benefit of them. On the right, near Kkttering (70 J miles, is 18i Route 41.— LONDON TO LFACESTER. ENGLAND. Boufihton House, tlio jiroperty of the Duke of Buccleiich, containing a valuable collection of paintings. MARKETlL\nBon()UGn(81jmiles), (Hotels: Three Swims, Anr^el) is niuch resorted to during' the hunt- ing season. Charles 1. fixed his head quarters here liffore the Battle of Nas9b3^ J^ficesteii (97i miles), (Hotels: Bell, Stag; poi)ulation, 70,000) is an impor- tant manufacturing- town on 'he River f^oar, and is a principal station on tlie IMidland line. It is pleasantly situated, is a clean well-paved town, and contains some very good buildings, the ])rincipal of which are the Assembly liooins, Theatre, New and Tem- perance Halls and some fine eccle- siastical structures. Its principal manufactures are woollens, ho- siery, gloves, cotton and boots and shoes. It is also the centre of a famous agricidtural and sheep- farming district. It is a place of great antiquity, having been a city during the Saxon Heptarchy, and is rich in historical associa- tions. It was here that Eichard III. passed the night before the battle of Bosworth Field, and his remains are buried in a Franciscan convent which then stood near St. JMartin's church. Cardinal Wolsej' died in the Abbey of St. Mary de Pratis (now in ruins). In the reign of Henry V. a par- liament was held here, and of the castle, which occupied a large space now known as the Newarke, the Hall is still entire, and con- tains the Assize Courts. The celebrated divine Robert Hall was for a longtime the pastor of St. JMary's, and was born at Arnesby, in the neighbourhood. Five miles distant is Brad'j^nte Park, the birthplace of Lady Jane (jrey. Ashhq-de-la-Zoucli (17miles from Leicester) contains the ruins of a fine castle, tlie chief incidents connected with which are treated in Scott's historical novel of " Ivanhoe." Leaving Leicester, we next reach LoucniiiOROL'ou (liOlmiles),( Hotels: A'iHij's Head, Bull), population, 12,000, noted for its manufactures of lace, hosiery and bojinets. Channcond Forest,. distant about six miles from tliis- place, is filmed for its splendid views, and the wild luxuriance of its vegetation. It is here that a body of the Cistercian brother- hood established themselves at the commencement of the present century, and their monastery of Saint Bernard is noted for its lios- pitality and the kind reception at all times accorded to visitors. Shortly afterwards we pass Thent (116^ miles). A branch line leads to Nottingham and Lincoln (see Route 36). Nottingham (125 miles), (Hotels : Maypole, Flying i/ocse ), population, 76,000, is built on the north bank of the Lene^ and occupies a rocky eminence overlooking the rich valley of the Trent. It is an important manu- facturing town, the staple trade being lace and hosiery. It has also flax mills, dye-works, and breweries. In the ancient part of the town the streets are narrow and irregular, several of the latter being built in terraces, one above tlie other, the ground floors of the houses at the top overlooking the roofs of those at tlie bottom. The principal public buildings are the Exchange, Town Hall, aiechanics' Hall, County Hall, Infirmary, Theatre and Cavalry Barracks. There are some fine churches and a sjjacious market- place. A\'illiam the Conqueror built a castle here which was dismantled during the Protectorate, and at the Restoration the ancient fortress was replaced by the jiresent edi- fice, which belonged to the Duke- NGLANI). Route i\.—i.o\Do\ TO Li:icFxn:n. 185 of Newcastle. It was burnt durini; tlie Ucfonn hill riots, and is now in ruins. Henry Kirke Wliite is buried here, and in IlucknaJl church (7 inih'S distant) are tJic remains of Lord Byron. [ N KwsTEA I) A II [i i; Y, formerly tlie residence of Hyroii, is near Linby, a station on tlie railway between Nottingham and .Mansfield, Pi- miles from the former place. It is said to have jiassed into the hands of a person who rarely accords piermission to strano;ers to visit the buildiiij;- and grounds. External views of them may be had from various points in the vicinity.] Proceeding on our way along the main line, we presently reach Deiibv (I'ifiJ nides), (Hotels: Rot/ill, Midlnid, l\iii:;'x Head), ])opulation, •l.>,()00, situated on the banks of the D -rwint, and forming the grand junction of tlie principal branches of the -Midhnid llailway. It is fini-ly placed on a level, fertile ])lain, and is sur- rounded by picturesque scenery. The streets are remarkably clean and well paved, and contain some fine buikhngs. .All Saints' cliurch is a sjjli'ndid structure. The staple manufacture is throwing silk, in- troduced from Italy early in the 18th century, the silk mill erected in 1718 being the first and largest of the kind in England. It has also manufactures of cotton, lace, liosiery, lead, porcelain ( for which it is famous), jewellery, fluor spar, marble, &:c. It has a splendid arboretum and recreation ground. The Free Grammar School is one of the oldest English foundations, dating: from 116'-'. Derby was the fartliest place in lOngland to wliich Charles Stuart, the I'reti'nder, advanced. It gives the title of earl to the Stanley family, and was tlie birth- place of Flamsteed the astronomer, Dr. Darwin ("wlio founded the Philosophical Society), Linacre, and ilicliardson the novelist. Soon after our dejjarture from Derby we j)ass Ainber;iate Junc- tion (137 J miles), wliere tourists generally leave for the neigjibour- Iiood of tlie Peak. (Abranciigoes to ■Manchester by way of .Slat- lock-I3atii and lUixton.) \Ve pass in succession several stations and places of no particular note ; amongst otliers, Che4erjield n.^II miles), a town of nearly 11,000 inhabitants, deriving itsprosjicrity partly from its cotton and other manufactures, ])art]y from the mines in the neigiibourliood; iVor- manton (190.J mdes), where three lines — tlio ]\Iidland,the Lancashire and Yorksliire, and the North Eastern — meet, and Woodle>-I'ord (195J miles), near which is I'em- yle Neivfum lloufe, where Daridey, husband of ^lario Stuart, was born. Here is a good collection of paintings. ^Ve sliortly afterwards reach Lekds {Holets: Queen's, Great Xorthen), White Hone), ])opulation, 207,163. The jirin- cipal buildings are the Toun Hall, one of the handsomest and most commodious in tlie kingdom, the Commercuil Buildings, and tlie 7;i- firmary. There is an excellent Grammar School and a Mechanics' Institute, with a good library. Although for many centuries the centre of a great trade in wool and its fabrics, and having sont a representative to Cromwell's Par- liament, it is only since tlie passing of the Reform l?ill, in 1832, that Leeds has arrived at the dignity of a parliamentary borough. The woollen manufactures of Leeds, from the coarsest and commonest sliawls, blankets, vXc, to tlie finest clotli, are known all over tlie world. f]very process, from the cleansing and carding of tlie wool to the dyeing of the finished pro- 186 Roule 41. —LONDON TO LEICESTER. ENGLAND. duction, is performed here ; there are also enormous establisliments for tlie production of machinerj', canvas and linen manufactories, and many other important branches of industry, whicli supply em- ployment for its large population. 'J'he improvements of so wealthy a place have naturally kept pace with the rapid increase of popu- lation, and are, therefore, nearly all of recent date. At no great distance by rail from Leeds, are the great indus- trial towns of Halifar, Hudders- Jield, and Rochdale. As these are all, tiiough nominally old, essen- tially new places, and more likely to attract merely business men than tourists, we are content simply to indicate their proximity. The family of Byron were lords of the manor of Rochdale for more than two centuries, until 1823, ■when it was sold by Lord Byron, the poet. [Eighteen miles from Leeds, by the North-Eastern Railway, is Haruogate (Hnieh : Grunby, X)rcfo-o«,Quee«'s), celebrated for its mineral springs, some of which were discovered in 1.576. It is a place of considerable resort. Eleven miles farther on, by the same line, is Ripox (Hotels: Uni- com, Crown and Anchor), a town of considerable antiquity; popu- lation, 6,250. It has a fine Cathe- dral, and otlier public buildings. Three miles from the town is Stitd- ley Roiial, the seat of Earl de Grey. In the pleasure grounds are the ruins of Fountains Abbey, said to be the most perfect monastic struc- ture in England. It was founded in 1204. It is built in the best style of Gothic arcliitecture. The tower and external walls are all standing. Near the abbey is an old mansion called Fountains Hall, built in 1611, with materials taken from the abbey. The grounds are open every day except Satur- day. About three miles from Harro- gate is Knaresboroiigh, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Nidd. Its Casf/e, of which only the tower and a few fragments of the walls remain, was erected shortly after the Conquest, and was occupied at one time by Piers Gaveston, the favourite of Edward II. ; and after 1331 by John of Gaunt. Ricliard II. was imprisoned here. It was dismantled under the Common- wealth. St. Robert's Chapel is a cavern in the cliff on the bank of the Nidd, opposite the Castle. Its roof is carved, and there are some curious Gothic designs on the altar. Near it is the Dropping Well, the water from which will petrify, by degrees, anything sub- jected to its action. About a mile distant is St. Robert's Cave, where the skeleton of Clark, murdered by Eugene Aram (see Lord Lyt- ton's novel of that title), was dis- covered many years after the event. The corn market at Knares- borough is the largest in York- shire.] Two miles from Leeds we see, close by the railway, Kirhtall Abbey, founded in the 12th cen- tury by one of the Lacy family. The tower, one of the gatewa3^s, some broken walls, and the i*e- mains of tlie chapter house, are the sole remnants of this once beautiful structure. Nothing worthy of mention is observed till we arrive at Buadfoiid (212j miles), (Hotels: Victoria, George, Talbot), population 106,218. [From Apperleu, 7f miles from Leeds, a branch line extends to Ben Rhydding and Ilkluy (10 miles), at both of which are celebrated water-cure establishments. Five miles from I Ikley, by carriage road, is Bor.TON I'liioKv, one of the finest ruins in r.NCLAND. Route n.— LONDON TO LKlCICSTEIi. 187 J'nfflaml, beautifully situated on the banks of tlic Hivcr Wliarfe. Tlie navo of tli(> I'riory ("liurch is used as a Parish Church. It is now the jiropcrty of the Duke of Devonsliiiv, who has a iiunting scat close by tiu; priory. About a mile distant is tlie Stiid, a channel of barely 5 ft. in width, through which tii(^ \V half rushes with e;reat violence. -AIany3'ears ago the then lieir to the estate, called " the boy of Kgremond," in attempting to snring across, was checked by his dog, which he was leading in a leasli, and fell to rise no more. The incident is the subject of liogers' " 15oy of Egremond."j Bradford was slnijdy a market town until the year 1847, when it received a charter of incorj)ora- tion. It is one of the most rapidly increasing manufacturing towns in Vorksliire. The woollen and ivorsted stuff' manufactories em- ploy several thousand hands, and there are cotton mills, manufac- tories of combs, and machinery, and extensive ironworks and foundries which ahso employ a very great number more. The corporation has devoted considerable sums to street improvements and sanitary arrangements, and the town has a clean and j)Ieasant appearance. The increase in value of property here, of late years, is enormous. The historian of the place, writing in 1866, says, '-land recently sold at .£l6 jier square yard, could, within the last 20 years, have been bought for 7s. 6d." In 181'2 riots took place here in consequence of the introduction of some novel machinery, and such excesses were committed as led to the execution of 17 persons. In the parish church is a monu- ment to .Mr. Abraham Balme, of Bradford, by Flaxman, and an inscription to ^Villiam Scoresby, D.D., in his youtli a .seaman, and an fxjilorer of the Arctic regions, and afterwards an author. He was for some time vicar of the parish, and died in 1857. liOlTE 42. LONDON' TO MATLOCK- BATH, KOWSLKV (for Chatswortii) and BUXTON. To Rousleu (149 miles): 1st ctofs, '2TsAd.rJnd, aOs.Gd.; 3id, i'2sAd. To Buxton (l'.)31 miles) ; 1st das':, 30s.; Ud, i,"2». 3d.; 3rd, 13s. 7d. (The route between London and A mbergate Junction is given in Route 10). UITTING the main line, we arrive at Matlock-Batii (143i miles), (Hotels: iVeie Bulb, Old Bath, Temple), seated in a romantic situation, on the steep acclivity of a mountain rising from the banks of the Derwent. It owes its celebrity to its me- dicinal springs and the beauty and grandeur of its scenery. It is a favourite resort of invalids, for whom ample accommodation is |)rovi(ied. 1 he most striking objects of interest ar(> the Ilif;h Tor (which rises to a height of o'.)6 ft.), and Massoii Rocks. The caverns, with which the locality- abounds, are interesting alike to the tourist and the geologist. They contain fine stalactites, and crystallizations of unequalled rich- ness. The " Romantic Rocks," a series of masst>s and fragments of rocks torn asunder, are well worthy of a visit. About 'J\ miUs beyond Rowileii Station, on thi> way to Buxton, is Haddon Hai.i., 1B8 Route 42.— LONDON TO MATLOCK-BATH, enoland. standing on a bold eminence on tlie Wye, and affordinsif a complete picture of an ancient baronial residence. Built in the reign of Edward III., it soon after tlie Conquest passed into the Vernon family, the last male descendant of ■svliich, " tlie king of tlie Peak," died in the 7th year of YAizaheth, and Iladdon came by marriage into the possession of the family of Manners, of whicli the Dukc of Rutland is the representative. Passing Matlock, we reach RowsLEV (149 miles), where there is an excellent hotel. In tlie im- mediate neighbourhood is CnATSwouTii, the magnificent seat of the Duke of Devonshire. It was among the domains given by William the Conqueror to William Peveril, his natural son. The jiresent building was nearly completed by the first Duke of Devonshire, but a wing was added by the late duke. The gardens are among the most celebrated in the kingdom. The grand con- servatory is 300 ft. long by 145 ft. wide, and comprises an area of about an acre. It was constructed under the superintendence of the late Sir JosepliPaxton. Eight acres are laid out in pleasure grounds, and twelve used for the production of fruit and vegetables. The park IS nine miles in circumference, and is beautifully diversified with hill and dale. The old house of Chatsworth was, for 13 years, the prison of Mary Queen of Scots. A delightful excursion may be made from Matlock to Dove Dale, distant 13 miles, where the scenery is of the most romantic descrip- tion; Aihboiirne Hall, where the Pretender spent a night in 1745 ; and Mayfield, where is situated the cottage in which Moore com- posed "LallaRookh." After visiting Chatsworth, the tourist niay return to Rowsley station, and from thence proceed by rail to Buxton (193| miles), {Hotels: Palace, St. Ann's, Old Hall Family), population 2,000. This fushioiiable watering-place is- 33 miles north-west of Derby, and lies 900 ft. above the sea, in a deep vallej'^ surrounded by hills and moors, which have been taste- fully planted. Buxton has for ,300 years been celebrated for its cal- careous springs, tepid (82° F.) and cold, and its chalybeate springs. The public baths ai'e numerous, and are fitted up with every at- tention to the convenience of visi- tors. The Crescent at Buxton is an extensive and ele^'ant structure, comprising two hotels, a library, assembly rooms, &c., and was erected 'by tlie iifth Duke of De- vonshire at a cost of £120,000. The public walks are laid out with mucli taste, and tlie environs abound with natural curiosities and romantic scenery. Half-a- mile distant is Poole's Hole, a ca- vern of considerable dimensions, in which are some curious stalac- tites, and Diamond Hill, famous for its crystals. Axedge, one of the highest summits in the Peak, in about three miles from the town, and rises 1,000 ft. above the level of the Crescent. IIOUTE 43. THE LAKE DISTRICT. ^n^M, TOUR through the- ?:MaV^ Lake District, as gene- <0r^\^ rally understood, is a /('/s: Satiit'.iiion, W'titfrlicad, from the town, is a broken water- fall, 70 ft. high. From various heights in the neighbourhood are fine views, and not far distant are tlie villages of Ri/dal and Gro«mere, with their respective small liikes. RvDAL RIouNT was for many 3'ears the residence of A^'ords- worth ; and lie lies buried in Grasmerecliurchyard. Allan Bank, and the Nab at Grasmere, were both for some time occupied by him, anil the latter subsequently by De Qiiincey, the ICnglish opium- eater, and then by Hartley Cole- ridge, who is buried near the poet. KiswicK (Hoiels: Keswick, Ttni/al Oal;), which is 14 miles KNOI.ANU. Uoute \3.—Tin: I. IKK DISTRICT. 191 from Ambleside, is the usual stop- iiins: i)laco for tourists iiitendin"^ to visit 13ku\vi:nt\vatkh. 1 his lake is, by many persons who admire the rudfi' aspects of nature, pre- ferred for its surroundin<: scenerj' to \VindernKTe. It is about half ii mile from Keswick, ami has three ])rincii)al islands, together with the " floatin'' island" as it is called. teidule, from which the ascent of lltlielhin (j,0.'i5 feet) may be made; i'ochermouth, Words- worth's birth-place; Wastuater ; Ulhiiater, on which there is a steamer; and .-h'ici/ /''oire, another fine waterfall. Sld'dJuw (.J.O'.'a ft.) can be easily ascended from Kes- wick, and the views obtained du- rins; the ascent, and from tliesum- RYDAL MOUNT. which only appears periodically, (ireta Hall, near Keswick, was the residence of Southey. From an eminence on the Ambleside Road, called Castlerigsf, a favourite spot of tlie poet (iray, we have a view of the lakes of Derwentwater and Ijasscntliwaite, and the Der- went connectinf; tliem. Kx- cursions are made from Keswick to the Vale of St. .lohn ; to Lo- dore (where "the tourist will see the waterfall immortalised in Southey's poem) and Borroudule; Scale Force, one of the loftiest waterfalls of the district ; Bulter- u'.ere and Criimmnck Water; Put- mit, are unsurpassed by anj' other landscape in the kinujdom. From ]\'astdale, near the foot of ^Vastwater, the tourist may reach tlie summit of Scutijell Pikes, (o,160 ft.) the higliest point in Kiiiiland. 192 Route ii.— LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE. England. Route 44. LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE, ELY, NORWICH, AND YARMOUTH, 146 miles ; {express) 1st class, '30s. ; '■2nd, 20s.; reluni-llckels, aiail- ablefor tico days, 1st class, 47s. ^d.; 2nd, 36i. 6d. NE mile from Bishops- g'ate-street Station is Mile End, near which we see, on tlie left, Victoria Park. At Park Station (9^ miles) a branch-line of 3 miles leads to Edmonton, ( famed for the exploit of " John Gilpin,") and Enfield, where the Government have established a factory for small arms. Near Pander's End (11| miles), on the right, is M'al- tham Abbey, where Harold, the last of the Saxon kings, Avas buried after the battle of llastings. At a short distance from Waltham, on the left, is Waltham Cross, one of the fifteen beautiful crosses erected by Edward I. in memory of his queen, Eleanor. Not far distant are the Government pow- der mills. Cheshunt (16^ miles) is noted as tlie place wliere Richard Cromwell died. The manor was once in the ])ossPssion of Cardinal Wolsey. From Broxbourne (19 miles) there is a branch of 7 miles to ]Vare and Hertford. Tlie next place of interest is Audley End (43^ miles), near which, on tlie right, we observe the beautiful mansion of Lord Braybrooke. It contains some good pictures, and a large aviary. Near Chesterford (47^ miles) an ancient Roman villa and other antiquities have been discovered ; also several Roman remains near Shelford {51-^ miles) ; soon after passing which we reach CAJiBrdDGF. (57^- miles. Ho- tels: Bull, Hoop, Red Lion), po- pulation, 26,361. The second great university of England, of considerable antiquity, and, like Oxford, assuming the regular form of a university only in the thirteenth centurj'. There are seventeen colleges, each of which furnishes members of tlie general controlling body of the university, whilst retaining its own special rules, like those of Oxford. There are three terms : JMichaelmas or October Term, from October 1 to December 16 ; Lent, or Janu- ary Term, from January 13, to Friday before Palm Sunday ; and F2aster, or ^lidsunimer Term, be- ginning on the Friday after Easter- day, and ending on Commence- ment-day, the last Tuesday but one in June. The general con- stitution and government much resemble those of Oxford, as well as the sources of income and re- muneration of the professors. Every student must have com- pleted nine terms' residence, during two-thirds of each full term, before he can take his degree. The degrees conferred are those of Bachelor and Blaster of Arts, Bachelors and Doctors in Divinitjr, Law, Phj'sic, and ]\Iusic. Tlie Churcli of England test is still requisite here, as at Oxford. Honours are ranged under triposes. The tliree classes of merit in the Mathematical Tripos are Wranglers, Senior, and Junior Optimes ; the first man being Se:iior Wrangler. The Classical Tripos has three classes, tlie first successful candi- date on tlie list being termed the Senior Classic, and so on. Since 1848 other triposes have been established. The subjects of ex- amination in the JNIoral Sciences ENGLAND. Route 44.— LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE. 193 Tripos, in whieli honours may be taken, are .Moral Pliiloso]ih3', I'olitical Kcoiioniy, .Modi'ri) His- tory, Cii'iiiTal Jurisjinicleiice, and the Laws of Knglaiid ; the sub- jects in the ^vatural Sciences Tripos include Anatomy, Com- Earative Anatomy, Physiology, hemistry, Botany, Geology, and Mineralogy'. The colleges are, ■St. Peter's, Clare, Femhroke, Cains, Trinitij Hull, Corpus Clirisli, King's, Queen's, Catherine, Jesus, Christ's, St. John's, Mai^datene, Triniii/. Emmanuel, Sidneij, Sussex, and Downincr- of vvliich St. Peter's, founded in 1257, is the most ancient, and Downing College, founded in 1800, the most recent. The university returns two mem- bers to Parliament. The college fees on matriculation differ at dif- ferent coUeijes ; but those paid to the university are as follows : for Noblemen, £15 IQs. ; Fellow-Com- moners (scions of the nobility, or young men of fortune, wlio are privileged to dine at the Fellows' table), £10 10s. ; Pensioners, £5; Sizars, 15.s. ; in addition to which, *' caution "-money, returnable on the name being taken off the boards, is paid on admission to each college, as follows : Noble- men, £50 ; Fellow-Commoners, £'25 ; Pensioners, £15 ; Sizars, £l0. The public buildings are the Senate House, Library, Uni- versity Pres'i, the Fitzailliani Mu- seum, Anatomical Museum, and the Observatory. The old Botanical Garden, established in 1762, having become unfitted for the purposes of the university, a new one has been formed by the side of the Trumpington-road. The geological collections in the mu- seum are of great value. In the town may be noticed the Church of St. Sepulclire, with its round tower, built and named after the church of the same name in Jeru- salem. One of the benefactors of tlie town wiis Thonjas Ilobson, thif carrier, upon whom Milton wrote two t>pitaphs, alluding to the circumstances of his death. The rivalry between Oxford and its sister university Cambridge, the result of which lias led to an annual struggle between them, in the form of a boat race on the Thames, near London, which lias become of national interest, has sometimes been illustrated epi- grammatically. In 1715 — Gene- ral Pepper having gone to Oxford with some dragoons, and adopted rather stringent mea.sures towards tiio students, on account of their suspected Jacobite sympathies, at about the same time that the king is said to have sent a present of books to Cambridgi:^ — some wit, in the interest of the last-named university, observed : — " The King to Oxford sent a troop of hoi-se. As tories own no argument but force ; Un t'other hand, books he to Cambridge sent. As whigs will own no force bat argu- ment." To this an Oxford wit retorted : — " The King sent troops to Oxford, vexed to see That learned body's want of loyalty; To Cambridge books he sent, as well discerning How much thiit loyal body wanted learning." Leaving Cambridge we pre- sently reach Elv {7'i^ miles). {Hotels: Lamb, Bell), popula- tion 7,428. From this station branch-lines lead to Peterborough and Lynn Regis. The Isle of Ely, on which the town is situated, is a tract of land raised above the level of the sur- rounding fens which, in ancient times, were covered witli water. Tlie Cathedral, a structure of singular beauty, stands on the N li'4 Route U.— LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE. England. site of a monastery originally built ia 670, and desti-oyed by tlie Danes in 870. It was rebuilt about the year 970, and made a Cathedral by Henry VIII. -The bishopric dates from 1107. The architecture is varied, but the general effect is exceedingly strik- ing. Much has been done of late years to improve the interior. The Church of the Holy Trinitif, adjoining the Catliedral, is a vary Handsome building. There is a Grammar School here, founded oy Henry VIII. Ely is cele- brated for the manufacture of earthenware and tobacco pipes; and for its oil-mills. Beyond Ely we pass no place deserving of particular notice until we amve at Norwich (126 miles), (Ho- tels: Royal, Norfolk), population 74,900 ;■ the capital ot Norfolk, situated on the River Wensum. It was a place of importance as far back as the reign of Edward tlie Confessor. The only build- ings that claim our attention are the Castle and the Cathedral. The former is supposed to have existed long before the Conquest, and to have been rebuilt by Roger Bigod in the reign of William the Conqueror. The keep is now used as a jail. The Cathedral was commenced in 1094, and com- pleted in 1361. It is in the Nor- man style, and contains some handsome carvings and monu- jnents. The spire is 315 ft. high. Opposite the west end of the Catliedral is an ancient gateway called Erpinghani's Gate. TJiere are also several fine churches and public buildings which it is unne- cessary to specify. Soon after passing Norwich we arrive at Reedham Junclion (138 miles), where there is a branch of 11;^ miles to Lowestoft, much fre- quented as a sea-bathing place. Skirting the north side otBreydon Water, a lake of some extent, we next reach YARMorrn (146 miles). (Ho- tels: Royal, Angel), population 34,810. The old town, or Great Yarmouth, is connected by a bridge across the Yare with little Yarmouth. A considerable trade is carried on here with the Baltic, but the principal business is the salting and exportation of her- rings of a very superior quality, called " bloaters." Yarmouth Roads is the name given to the sea off the coast of Yarmouth. The quay is considered one of the finest in England, and affords a good promenade along an ave- nue shaded on each side by a row of trees. In the neighbourhood is a hand- some column to the memory of Lord Nelson. GENERAL REMARKS in re- lation TO THE Routes from London to the Continent. RAVELLERS destined to Paris have the choice of several routes : the one here partially de- scribed, known as the Dover and Calais Route; the routes by Folke- stone and Boulogne, by Newhaven and Dieppe, andthathy Southamp- ton and Havre. The distance to Paris by Folkestone is the shortest, and the time is now reduced to from 91 to 10^ hours from London to Paris, and vice versa. The route by Dover is preferred by many travellers, the Channel between Dover and Calais being only 21^ miles in width, while from Folke- stone to Boulogne it is 275 miles. One of the advantages of the Dover and Calais route is that, owing to the depth of water at Dover and Calais, the boats arrive Exci.AND. Route 44.— LOXDOX TO CAMBRIDG^E. 195 and depart at fixfd hours, vrhila those ])l_viii<;f between P'olkestone and IJoulo<;iie leave only wlien tlie tide serves. It often liappens, however, that the hours ot de- parture by the tidal trains are more convenient tlian those viu Dover, 'i'lie service is the same by either route as to comfort; the railway carriages, both in Eng- land and France, are comfortable, and the speed very great; the boats are uncomfortable, there being no choice in this respect be- tween the two routes. There are few journeys in any ci\nlized country at this day which entail so much discomfort as this, if the weather is at all disagreeable. The steamers are small (it is said necessarily so), there is no shelter on the main decks, and there are only two ])rivate rooms (one or two of the boats have four), which may be secured by an early ap- plication to the steward (one or two days' previous notice is ad- visable to secure room). The fare by Dover and Calais to Paris is : for first-class, £2 17s. 3d. ; second, £2 25. 6d. Express trains take no third-class passengers. The fare by Folkestone and Boulogne to Paris is : first-class, £2 13s. lOd. ; second, 1'2; tliird, 16s. Tlie route via Southampton and Havre is not a daily line, the steamers leav- ing each port on ^Monday, \Ved- nesday, and Friday evenings. The average time occupied in crossing at Dover is about one hour and a half, at Folkestone about two hours, at Newhaven about six hours, and at Southampton about eight hours. Persons desiring to break the journey at Dover, Folkestone, i>i'ewhav(^n, or Southanijiton, will find excellent hotels near the land- ings. The advantage in remaining over night at Dover or at Folke- . stone to take the morning boat, besides that of being enabled to rise at a less inconvenient hour to take the early train from London, is tliat tlie traveller may go on board before the arrival of the passengers by the trains, secure the best position, and make, with- out haste or confusion, tlie neces- sary preparations for tlie trip. There is a daily tidal service between London and Boulogne, by the Thames. The steamers leave from London Bridge. Fares to Paris, first-class, oOs. ; second, 22s. The crossing from the mouth of the Thames to Boulogne is usually made in about •!■ hours, the whole distance being done in from 8 to 9 hours. Travellers desiring to proceed from London direct to lielgium and Germany, may take the Bel- grian mail steamers, which leave Dover every morning for Ostkvd. By this route the Channel is usually crossed in from 5^ to 6 hours. Express trains for Brus- sels, Cologne, &c., connect with the steamers at Ostend. The jour- ney from London to Cologne is usually perfonned in 15 hours, to Berlin in 27 hours. RocTE 45. LOXDOX TO HARWICH. (Route to Rotterdam.) 69J miles ; Jirst class, 14s. 6d. ; second, lis. 6d.; third, 8s. 9d. EAVIX'G London from tiie Bishojisgate Street Station, we reach Forest Gate (4-J miles) on the borders of Kppiiig 1-West, And soon afterwards pass Uford ("miles), near which, on the left, we see Valentines, an old red-brick house containing some fine specimens of 196 Route 4b.— LONDON TO HARWICH. ENGLAND. wood-carving by Grinling Gib- bons, and, in the conservatory, a remarkable vine. Romford (12 miles) is a flourishing market- town of about 5,000 inhabitants. The ales from Romford Brewery are celebrated all over the south of England. On the right, near Brentwood (17f miles), is Thorn- don Hall, the magnificent seat of Lord Petre. Chelmsford (29j miles), (IIs- tels: Black Boy, Saracen s Head), situated on the Chelmer, is the county town of Essex. Popula- tion about 2,600. In the neigh- bourhood, about 5j miles distant, is Danbury, noted for its church, which is built on the site of a Danish encampment. In tlie in- terior are the tombs of three knights, cross-legged, as was the case with the effigies of all those who had fought in the Holy Land. Danbury Palace is the residence of the Bishop of Rochester. On the right, near Witham (38g- miles), we observe Braxted Park. We see nothing worthj'^ of further mention before arriving at Colchester (51;^ miles). {Ho- tels: Three Cups,Red Lion,Georo;e), population about 24,000. It is supposed tliat this is the site of the Roman station of Camelodu- num. Part of the Castle and of the ancient walls is still existing, and we see the ruins of St. John's Abbey, and St. Botolph's Priorij, together witli other remains of antiquity, and several churches and public buildings. Colchester is situated on the south bank of the River Colne, and is especially famed for its oysters. From Col- chester we proceed to Manning- tree Junction (59 miles), and, leaving the main line, reach Harwich (69f miles). (.Ho- tels: Great Eastern, Pier), po- pulation 5,070. It is situated near the mouth of the Stour, and has a commodious harbour and dock-yard. Ship-building, with other trades depending on it, is the chief source of industry. There is a regular traffic and passenger service between Har- wich and Rotterdam, three times a week, and between the same place and Antwerp, twice a week. Landguard Fort, commanding the harbour and its approaches, was constructed in the reign of James I. One mile from Har- wich is Dover Court, an agreeable bathing-place. Route 46. LONDON TO CANTERBURY AND DOVER. (Route to the Continent.) From London to Dover, 78 miles; 1st class, 18s. 6d. ; '2nd, 13s. 6d. ; 3rd, 6s. 6d. ; return tickets, 1st, 31s. s 2nd, 22s. 6d.; 3rd, 13s. EAVING London by the Victoria or Ludgate Hill Stations, we pass through extensive su- burbs, which not many years ago were isolated villages, and reach Dulwich (five miles), where there is a college founded by Alleyne, an actor, in 1639, for the gratui- tous education and su.pport of poor scholars. We next pass Sydenham Hill (5| miles), obtaining a view of the Crystal Palace, and proceed past several unimportant places, through a country the attractions of which have madeKent renowned as " the garden of England." We then reach Rochester (33 miles), an ancient town situated on the River Medway and the seat of a bishopric. It contains a cathe- dral and the ruins of a castle on ENGLAND. Route 16.— LONDOX TO CAXTERRURY. 1?? an eminence above the river. The next station is Chathami^i^ miles; Hotfis: Mitre, Skii), population estimated at ;J(>,177. '1 his im- portant ])lac(' is a market town and narliamentarv borough upon the ftledway. Its prosperity antl ac- tivity are entirely depemleiit \ij)on that of" the Dcjckyards, which, first established here by Queen Eliza- beth, have since been extended from time to t ime by her successors, and considerable improvements are being made at the present time (1870). I'pnor CaMte, now used as a powder magazine, was built ujion the opposite side of the Mfdway for its defence, but to small ]iur)U)se, as, in l()t")7, L)e Ruyter, the Dutch Admiral, sent some of his light ships and some fire-ships to destroy it, and in spite of the guns of the castle burnt and sunk several vessels and car- ried off a ship of war called the "Koyal Charles, "creating thereby great alarm in Lonnce arises the mixed character of its style. The western towers and the choir are Norman, but the central tower, the nave, the jirincijial entrance to the ca- thedral, and western transept.s are among the finest existing speci- mens of the Perpendicular. '1 here are nimierous and beautiful cha- pels, and th(! monuments of arch- bishops and other illustrious per- sons are many, there being no less than ten of the former, the most splendid and interesting being those of Edward the Black Prince, Henry 1\'. and his Queen, the tombs of Archbishops Chicheley, ]5ourcliier, Courteney, the Earl of Somerset, the Duke of Clarence andtJardinal Pole. TrinityChapel, in the north-easttransept, formerly contained the rich Shrine ofThomas a Becket. In St. Andrew s Chapel are the ancient charters and grants of land, some of tliera a thousand years old, and the original tomb of St. Thomas, to whicii 1 lenry 1 1 . came barefoot to do penance, and where St. Louis of trance, when king of that country, watched a whole night. There are many fine stained-glass windows. The cloisters liave been restored and the Chapter House is an elegant building. There are several other ancient churches with interesting monuments, St. Martin's being said to be the most ancient church 198 Route 46.— LONDON TO CANTERBURY. England. in England. Of the old walls ]Vestgate is the sole remnant. Through Mercery Lane, leading from High Street to the Cathedral, pilgrims used to pass in ancient times on their way to the shrine. Hervey, the discoverer of the cir- culation of the blood, and Abbot, the late Lord Chief Justice Ten- terden were educated at the Gram- excellent sea-bathing it affords. Leaving Canterbury and passing through a most picturesque dis- trict, the intense whiteness of the roads bearing testimony to our approach to the chalk cliffs that guard the coast, we arrive at Dover {Hotels : Lord Warden, Ship), population estimated at 23,000. This is one of the " Cinque CANTERBURY. mar School here. There are some mineral springs of repute near the city. From Canterbury a branch line of 24^ miles leads to Ramsoate (Hotels: Royal, Albion), which, like Margate (five miles by local line ; Hotels : Royal, York, White Hart), attracts numbers of Lon- doners during tlie summer months. Between Ramsgate and Margate, near the North Foreland, is Broad- stairs (Hotel: Albion), also a fa- miliar haunt of tlie London citizens and others, on account of the Ports," and the nearest point to the French coast. At the eastern limit of the town is the Castle, situated on a hill 320 ft. high. ^^ ithin its walls is comprised an area of about 35 acres, containing buildings of various dates, all now used for the purposes of the garri- son. Within a few minutes' walk of Dover, to tlie south'west, is Shakespeare's Cliff, so called be- cause it is presumed to be the heio-ht mentioned in the 4th Act of "King Lear." In fine weather, Calais is plainly visible. ENGLAND. Uoute 48.— LONDON TO ST. LEONARD^. 199 Route 47. LONDON TO FOLKSTONE. 71 miles: (express), 1st class, 20s.; 2nd, 15s. From London to Red Hill Junc- tion, 'JOJ miles (see Route 41)). LAVING Red HiU, we pass through Bletch- ingly Tunnel, more thrtii ^ a mile long. At reiisliurst (33f miles) is the beautiful residence of Lord de Lisle and Dudley. It was for- merly die ])roperty of tlie Sydney family, and in it the renowned Sir Philip Sydney and Algernon Sydney were horn. From Titn- bridtre (29^ miles), a branch line of 5 miles goes to Titubiid^e Wells, formerly one of the favourite \yatering-places in England. Ash- ford Junction (oti miles). Here a branch turns oft" to Canterbury, Ramsgate, ice. See Route 4(i. Westenhaiiger (64 miles) is tiie station for lliithe, where the Go- vernment school of musketry for the southern district has been "esta- blished. Ltimjme, near Hythe, is said to be identical with the okl Roman station, Portus Lemauis. The remains of a fortress are to be seen here. Passing through Saltwood Tunnel we arrive at FoLKSTOXE (n miles). (Hotel: Pavilion), population a}x)ut <),000. This is a much fretiuentetl j)lacx2 during the batiiiug; season, and furnishes the most ex])edifious route to Roulogne. In tlie neigli- bourhood is Shorncliffe camp. Route 4S. LONDON TO ST. LEO- NARDS AND HA.STINGS, 76 J miiee: (exprets), 1st class, 17s.; 2nd, 14«. 6d. [FTER leaving London, the first place of im- portance IS Tunbridge (34^ miles. Hotels: Rose and Crotoii, Am^el), jiopu- lation 3,900. This place, like Cheltenham, Leamington, and others of the same ela:?s owes its origin entirely to the discovery of its chalybeate s[)ring, thi.' qualities of which are supposed to resemble those of Spa. The spring was first brought to notice by Dudley, I^ord Norihjin the reign of James I.; but when Henrietta, Queen of Charli* I. vitiited it, she and her suite had no shelter but tents. It has now all the usual accessories of similar jdaces, and is famed for tf>y«, and otlier small articles, manufactured from various woods, known ae "Tunhridge Ware." 'I'he wells are -6 miles from Tun- bridge, whra-e are the remains of an old castle, the seat of the De Clares, who, as earLs of Glou- cester, played an im])ortaut part in the reigns of tlie early Norman kings. No ])lace worth notice claims our attention before we arrive at 1 1 astings ( Murine Hotel), (62^ miles), population 23,000. This is one of the Cinque Ports, and is frequented chiefly as a watering-place. It is famous in history a« the place near which WilliamtheConqutToriauded, ;uk1 in tiie neighbourhood of which he fought the great battle in which Harold was killed, the Saxons were defeated, and he won the 200 Route 4S.— LONDON TO ST. LEONARDS. England. crown of Englantl, which has ever since remained with his descendants. The chief places of interest to visitors are tlie ruins of an ancient castle, standing on the summit of the west clift', erected previous to the Norman invasion ; the Lovers' Seat and Fairlight Glen, the latter two romantic spots distant about 4 miles from the town. About a mile to the west is St. Leonards, a new town of about 2,000 inhabitants, which is rapidly increasing', and may be considered the fashionable suburb of it. The Battle of Hastings, as it is commonly called, was in factfought at Battle, where there is a station on the line, about 7 miles nearer London. Its ancient name of Epiton was altered to Battle iu commemoration of the event, and ayearafterwards,the King founded an Abbey there, placing the high altar upon the spot where Harold was slain ; making an offering of his sword and coronation robe be- fore it, and conferred upon the abbot great privileges and immu- nities ; amongst others, that of pardoning any condemned tliief whom he might pass or meet going to execution. The circuit of the ruins of Battle Abbey is supposed to be about a mile. Battle is a market town, and has 4,000 in- habitants. Route 49. LONDON TO BRIGHTON AND NEWHAVEN. To Brighton 50^ miles ; first class, 10s.; second, 7s. 9d.; third,4s. 2d.; by express, first class, 12s. 3d. ; second, 10s. Return tickets, {ex- press') first class, 17s. 6d. ; second, 14s. ; {ordinary) first class, 14$. ; third, 6s'. 6d. jEAVING London either from the London Bridge or tlie Victoria Station, we pass Norwood Junc- tion (8^ miles) where the trains from Kensington and the stations above-mentioned unite, we reach Croydon (10^ miles) a market town, rapidly expanding owing to its proximity to London, and the facility of access afforded to it as a place of suburban residence for Londoners, by its many rail- way stations. This place was given to Lanfranc, Archbishop of tianterbury, at the time of the Conquest, and the manor has since always belonged to that see. The successors of Lanfranc had a pa- lace hei'e until 1780, when, on account of its dilapidated condi- tion, it was sold by Act of Parlia- ment, and is now used for indus- trial purposes. With the money so realized, tlie estate and mansion of Addington Park, Sj miles from Croj'don, were purchased in its stead. The church is a fine Gothic building containing memoi'ials of many archbishops. The pretentious - looking red brick building, on the top of the bill near Caterham Junction, on ENGLAND. Route 49.— LONDON TO RRlGinON. 201 tlie rijjht, is the Commercial Tra- vellers lienevotent Societii's school, and wt> ohscrvc u 1)011 the hill on tlit; h'ft lianil, nn asylum tor orjilians. JNlersthaiii Tunni'l tlirou)outh Downs from the north winds. It belonged to King Harold at the time of the con- (|uest ; and was jilundered and burnt by the French in ].51.'>. It was from this j)lace that Charles 1 1 . effected his escape to France afti-r the battle of Worcester, in a collier- brig, upon the captain of which he subse(|uently bestowed a pen- sion. The Pavilion is a curious piece of Moorish architecture, with fantastic cujiolas and mina- rets. Tlie celebrated chain-pier, which was erected as a landing- place in 18'J2, is composed of four cliain bridges, each 255 ft. in length, terminating in a granite- paved platform, resting upon a frame of strong oaken piles. The main chains are carried over orna- mental cast-iron supports, which also rest upon piles. The entire length of the jiier is 1,13() ft. In 1833, it was seriously damaged by an October gale, in which the suspension-chains and rods of the third span were broken. The fashionable promenade called the Steune, was, previous to 1793, a piece of waste land, used by the inhabitants to dry and repair their nets, boats, &lC. The Marine-parade, Brunswick- square and terrace, Hanover- crescent, King's Road, and the new West-end Pier, which is much more freciuented than tlie Chain Pier, ana upon which a band plays every' week-day, 6lC., furnish agreeable promenades. Tlie Chalybeate-spring is much esteemed for its medicinal qua- lities. About 5 miles from Brightoa, £02 Route 49.— LONDON TO BRIGHTON. England. on a part of the Downs, is an ex- found there, was subsequently tensive oval entrenchment called made use of by the Romans, the Devil's Dyke, which was pro- Races are held in August on bably a British encampment, the Downs to the north-east of which, judging from the coins Brighton. FEANCE. Route 50. Calais to Boulogne AND Pahis. . . . 51. DiippE TO Rouen and I'aiiis 52. Havue to Rouen and Paris (with descrip- tion of Paris; ) . . . 53. Brest to Paris. . . .54. Cherbourg to Paris . .55. Paris to Brussels 56. Paris to Cologne by Aix-la-Ciiai'elle 57. Paris to Bingen and THE Rhine, by way OF Nancy .... 58. Paris to Strasburg and Kehl (Geiinan frontier) .... ROUTES Page Ronte Page 59. Paris TO Bale,by]Mul- 205 HOISE 285 60. Paris to Bern, by 208 A EUCHATEL . . 287 61. Paris to Geneva, bv JNIacon 287 209 62. Paris to Turin, by 261 Mont Cenis . . . 288 t>63 63. Paris to Lyons and 265 IMarseillks . . . 291 61. Avignon to Pont-de- 268 Gard and Kimes . 302 65. XicE TO Genoa . . . 305 66. Paris to Bordeaux and 277 Bayonne .... 307 67. Bordeaux to IMont- pellier and ^I\r- 279 SEILLES 316 HIS, one of tlie most important states of Continental Europe, is situated between tlie Jura, the Alpx, the Mediterraiieait, the Fiirenees, tlie Atlantic, the Britiah Channel, and the German Ocean. It did not receive the name of France until after Clovis' conquest. It was anciently named Gaul, from a Celtic word sitjnifying- " a wood," or "woody country;" for Gaul was formerly covered with thick forests. France generally presents a level but not undiversified sur- face. The most elevated city is Pontarlier, on the borders of Swit- zerland, which is 2,910 ft. above the level of the sea. The linest parts of France lie alon«^ the course of the Seine to Paris; thence by the ^eat road to Moit- lius iind on to Ainergiie ; thence to Vivers, on the Rhone, and along the course of that river to Aix, and from ^ii to Italy. The pro- vinces of Bretagne, Maine, and Ani^ouleme have, in general, the a]>])earance of deserts. Some parts of Touriiine are rich and pleasing, but most of it is deficient in beautj'. French FUinderf, Arlois, and Al.-ace are more rich than picturesque. Mr. Young says that the Limouiin 20i FRANCE. FRANCE. possesses more natural beauty than any other province of France. Hill and dale, woods, lakes, streams, and scattered farms, are mingled everywhere through its whole extent in a thousand deli- cious pictures. The Vivarraise, along the Rhone, and the adjoin- ing parts of Dauphin^, are most romantic. Tlie picturesque beauty of the hilly parts of France is heightened by the rich and 1,'xu- riant verdure of the cliestnut-trees, particularly in the Limousin and Auvergne. The most level tracts are tlie French Netherlands, as they are called, on the north. From the mouth of the Garonne to the borders of Spain the coast consists of a flat, sandy tract, called the Landes, producing only heath, broom, and a few junipers. The other parts of France are, for the most part, agreeably diversi- fied with gentle risings and de- pressions, and bear a considerable resemblance to the general scenery of England. The principal moun- tain chains are the Cevennes, tlie Vosges, the Jura, the Alps, and the Fyreiiees. The grand chain of the Ceven- nes rises to the west of the Rhone, and seems to be the principal centre of the primitive district of France, extending into several branches. The low and rounded chain of the Vosges — the Mons Vogesus of Cassar — rises a little to the north of DeiiipoiiU and Keyserlautem, and runs tlience in a southerly direction parallel to the course of the Rliine, separating the duchy of Deiixponts and the naiTOw re- gion of Alsace from Lorraine and Franche-Comte. The Jura, a van- guard of the Alps, forms the boundary between France and Switzerland, and terminates a little to the nortii-west of Geneva. A chain of the Alps crosses the departments of the Maritime Alps, Lower and Upper Alps, and sepa- rates France from Italy and Swit- zerland as far as the neighbourliood of the Jura. In the department of Driwie another Alpine ridge takes its rise, and crosses the de- partments of the Ardiche, Loire, Rhone, Saone-et-Loire, and Cote- d'Or, as far as Dijon. The Pyre- nees, in the soutli of France, stretch from Cape Creuz, on the Mediterranean, to the bay of Figueras, on the coast of Spain. This vast chain, known to geogra- phers since the days of Herodotus, may be considered as equally be- longing to France and Spain. The highest peaks in the Py- renees, the Maladetta and Mount Perdu, attain an elevation of 10,886 ft. and 10,994 ft. respec- tively. The Frencli portion of the Alps now includes several of the highest mountains and most ele- vated passes of the range ; as Mont Blancl5,77i{t. ; Montlseran 13,272 ft. ; Mont Cents 11,457 ft. ; and the pass of Little St. Beriuird 7,190 ft., that of Mont Cenis 6,770 ft. above the level of the sea, &c. In Corsica the highest peak rises to an elevation some- what above 9,000 ft. France is everywhere inter- sected with rivers and streams. Of these, 300 are navigable, the principal being the Rhone, the Loire, the Garonne, and the Seine. The Loire is the longest, running a comparative course of 650 miles. The superficial area of France, in- cluding the new Savoy provinces, but exclusive of the isle of Cor- sica, is estimated at 201,578 square miles, and, as Corsica has an area of about 3,350 square miles, the total is 204,928 square miles. France has a coast line, along the Mediterranean, of 360 miles, along the Atlantic, of 585 miles, and FRENCH RAILWAYS ^ lie P rr^^r=:i| Y,"^' "H A... if;^> '•^■"*/'" /)& - ' ""■ ^^ .,- ^ tiff \ \ iV I ^-..r-'^y : "A. *' { Lo(fr<^ /fa.:.,. I '•} hrlh \...lo.i-,- e ^^''t"^^ AppletX)jis Europeaa Guide Book. D THEIR CONNECTIONS, f;; i^V r N ^ ^j A :»: _AJ:£i!! (t-«ilicr »fum^ N^ ^ \^ ./>(-/iA^ >J5>rr« -^r^" .. ^^ --j^ :^ if IS a) i Malbv ^- Sous.Lojidon. FRANCE. FRAXCE. S05 alono^ the North Sea and Channel, of 5'J5 miles, and possesses nume- rous p:ulfs, bays and straits. The population, at the last census, was OwinsT to its orreat extent of area, cousidiTable diversities of teni])erature are to be met with in France, yet it may be regarded, on the whole, as perhaps more favourable to the sustenance and comfort of human life than that of any other region in Europe. In the northern districts the cli- mate is hotter and more moist in summer than in the south- western parts of England. The central division possesses the best climate. In Touraine and the Limousin, snow and frost seldom occur; the air is pure, light and elastic, and the spring a continu- ance of such weather as is usually enjoyed in England about the middle of ^lay. In the north the rains are extremely heavy, and of longer duration than in England. In winter there are heavier snows, and more severe frosts than occur in the south of England, FkEXCH IMONEY. In France, accounts are kept in francs and centimes, 100 centimes being equal to one frtinc. The gold coins in use are pieces of 100 francs, 50 francs, 25 francs, '20 francs (usually called iKapoleons), 10 francs and 5 francs. The siher coins are pieces of 20 centimes, 50 centimes, one franc, 2 francs, and 5francs. For all practical purposes the franc may bo estimated at ten- pence in English, or 20 cents in L'nited States money — though that rate is not the exact value, the pound sterling being sometimes available in France at 25 francs 10 to 20 centimes, and the dollar being available at 5 francs, 5 to 15 centimes. It is the habit of Eng- lishmen, in estimating tluir ex- penses, however, to count tlie jiound sterling as eijuaU to 25 francs, and Americans generally estimate the Napoleon at four dollars. French Measures. The French kilomitre is equal to •1 furlongs, 213 yards, 1 foot and 11 inches. Five kilometres are tlierefore nearly e(|ual to 3 Eng- lish miles. Eight kilometres are very nearly 5 English miles. Route 50. CALAIS TO BOULOGNE AND PARIS. (For Route between London and Dover, see Route 46.) 176 J mites; fares, frst class, 33"23 francs; second, 2-i'95. Reaving Dover, we cross to Calais, by steamer (22 miles. Ho- tels : Dessiii, Station), population 13,250. Tliis ancient seaport town is situated in the Department of the Fui-de-Culais, 19 miles from Boulogne and 22 from Dover. It isof great strength, possessing extensive ramparts, a citadel and a fortified j)ort. Its streets are, for the most part, broad and well paved, and its ramparts form pleasant prome- nades. J'he chief object of interest, is the Clutrck of Aotre Dame, a Gothic edifice, which contains a fine picture of the "Assumption" by A andyck. The principal manufactures are 206 Route 50.— CALAIS TO PARIS. FRANCE. tulle and hosiery. It lias distil- leries, carriag-e factories, and slap- building docks, and carries on a considerable trade in brandy, wine, and provisions. Leaving Calais, a journey of 19 miles brings us to Boulogne - sur - mer (Hotels : des Bains; du Pavilion-Imperial, on the shore ; du Louvre, de Londres, Christol), population 41,000. The town consists of two parts, Upper and Lower, The upper town or Haute Ville, was in for- mer times strongly fortified, but its citadel was demolished in 1690, and its ramparts have been con- verted into promenades, from which, in clear weather, Dover can be seen. The upper town con- tains the Hotel de Ville, the Cathe- dral, Castle, &c. The lower town, which is more properly the sea- port, is newer, finer, and more po- pulous. It contains the barracks, the great Hospital, the Theatre, Exchange, and several other fine buildings, including the Public Library ,which liasoO, 000 volumes. Steamers ply daily, direct to Lon- don, a passage of about 9 hours, and twice a day to Folkestone. The English community forms a large portion of the resident po- pulation of Boulogne, and nume- rous hotels and boarding-houses are provided for the accommoda- tion of visitors. Paris is reached by railway from Boulogne in 4^ hours, n he harbour is too shal- low for large sliips ; it was, how- ever considerably enlarged and improved by Napoleon I., and also more recently ; so that at high-water the largest merchant vessels can, without danger, pass out or in. From this point Napo- leon contemplated the invasion of England, and here he encamped 180,000 men, and collected 2,400 transports, but, after some months watching, the war with Austria created other employment for them. A marble column 166 feet high, surmounted by a bronze statue of the emperor, was erected in commemoration of this camp. Campbell, author of the " Plea- sures of Hope," and Churchill the poet are buried here. Here also died Le Sage, the author of " Gil Bias." Boulogne is a bishop's see, and has numerous churches and edu- cational institutions, and a gallery of paintings. The Cathedral of Notre Dame is a modern structure in the Italian style of architecture. Its dome, which is a conspicuous object from the sea, is 293 ft. in height. The church contains very little of in- terest. Underneath it are exten- sive and ancient crypts, by some thought to date as far back as the 12th century. The INIusEUM in the Grande Rue, contains many objects of in- terest, as armour, weapons, &c. and contains some paintings worthy of notice. Access may always be had to the collections, by paying a small fee to the concierge. The public library, containing 32,000 volumes, is in the same building. The bathing establishment is one of the finest in France. The spa- cious building contains the usual reading, ball, and conversation rooms, baths, &c. It is surrounded by well laid out gardens, and near it is an enormous and very curious aquarium. Near the fish-market is a statue of Jenner, the discoverer of vacci- nation. The pier, which is nearly 2000 ft. in length, is the favourite pro- menade of the citizens, and is thronged during the bathing sea- sons by promenaders, presenting an animated appearance. The depth of water in the har- I IIANXE. Route 50.— CALAIS TO PARIS. ftOT bour not beinfj sufficient to admit large ships, the steamer service to the opposite shores of Enghind is a tidal one, tlie steamers taking their departure only when the tides serve. Passing 13oulognc, we proceed by the bank of the Liane till we pass Pont-de-Biiqiie (2'2f miles), when, emerging from a tunnel cut through a hill, on and around which is the forest of Hardelot, we cross an expanse of sand, and arriveatiNIoNTiiEuii.-VEUTON (tS]- miles). Beyond Xoi/eltes we pass Bhintjuetaque, where the English army crossed the Somme before the battle of Crtvu, and reach Abbe- ville (59i miles), (Hotels ; Tite de B(xuf, de France), population 21,000. It is the chief town of the department of the Somme, and a fortress of the second class. Its principal object of interest is the church of J^t. Wolfram, a good view of which may be had from the railway, on the left. The fuvade and portals are richly sculjitured. It was commenced in the 13th cen- tury, and has never been tinished. The Hotel de Ville lias a belfry of the loth century. There are many interesting old mansions in the town, one of which is called the house of Francis I. At Piquigny (86.J miles), there is a ruined castle of the loth century, and among the ruins those of a church. The cathedral of Amiens is seen on the left, before reachin^AMiKNS (95\ miles"), ( Hotels : du Rhiu, de France eftantinoi)le, is among the relics of this Cathedral. Amiens owes its chief celebrity to the treaty called ''The Peace of Amiens,'' signed here March 27, 1802, and intended to settle the disputed points between Eng- land, France, Spain, and Holland. Amiens is tiie birth-place of Peter the Hermit, Gabrielle d'Estrees, Ducange, and the as- tronomer Delambre. Lea\'ing Amiens we proceed for several miles through a very un- interesting tract, passing, amongst other places, C/e)vnont(l;?:c. Its harbour is one of the most accessible in France, and is entered by anarrowcliannel formi'd by two ]rn. Its principal feature is the Rue de Paris, run- ning from the Hotel de ^'iIle to the Grand Quai, Ha\Te was founded in 1509 by Louis \ll., on the site of a fishing village, and w;is intended as a harbour of refuge for the French navy. It was greatly extended and im- proved by his successor Francis 1., and from his time rapidly rose in importance, especially as the rival harbour of Hartleur was being gi':ulually filled up with o 210 Route 52.— HAVRE TO PARIS. FRANCE. sand. The names of Richelieu, Colbert, Vauban, Napoleon, &c., are connected with the improve- ments and additions made to the original harbour. It was bom- barded by the British in 1694, 1759, 1791-5. Under Louis XIV. it became the entrepot and chief seat of operations of the Frencli, East India, Senegal, and Guinea Companies. It is celebrated as the birthplace of JMadlle. Scud.'ry, Bernardin St. Pierre (author of Paul and Virginia), and Casimir Delavigne. The statues of the two last are placed in front of the library facing the harbour. After leaving Havre we proceed for some distance near the Seine. On the left is the little town of Graville, with its Abbey Cliurcli, a Norman structure, dating from the 12th century, soon after pass- ing which we reach Harfleur (4} miles), formerly the principal port at the mouth of the Seine. Tlie church is reputed to have been built in the 15tli century by Henry V. (of Eng- land), who besieged and took the town in 1415. The most important town before reaching Rouen, is YvETOT {Hotel : du Victories), population 8,921, with a con- siderable trade in cattle and agri- cultural products and manufac- tures of cotton and linen. Tlie Lord of Yvetot is styled Boi (VYvetot in old chronicles, and antiquaries have been much puz- zled to account for the origin of the title. There is a tradition that Clotaire, son of Clovis, hav- ing slain one Gaulthier, Lord of Yvetot, before the high altar of Soissons, endeavoured to make atonement for the deed by con- ferring the title of King on the heirs of Gaulthier. Passing several places of no interest to the tourist, we go through a tunnel more than a mile and a quarter in length, before reaching Malaunay (50 miles), and shortly afterwards arrive at Rou EN (552 miles), (Hotels. d'AIbinti, d'Angleterre, de Paris, de Dieppe), population (including suburbs) 150,000. This is one of the principal manufacturing and trading cities of France, and is situated on the right bank of the Seine. The ramparts have been con- verted into spacious boulevards, which, as well as the quays that line the river banks, are little in- ferior to the boulevards and quays of Paris. The deep waters of the Seine form a commodious port which is generally crowded with ships of all nations, from vessels of 300 tons to the smallest river craft. A stone bridge and a sus- pension-bridge connect the Fau- bourg St. Sever, on the left bank of the river, with the city, which is at once one of the most pictur- esque and one of the busiest places in France. Some of the streets are well built, with modern stone houses, but the greater part of Rouen is old, with tall, narrow, quaintly carved and gabled houses. Among the many beau- tiful churches for which it is noted, the finest are the Cathedral and the Church of St. Ouen. The former, one of the noblest metro- politan churches of France, is a remarkably fine specimen of Go- thic architectui'e. It was commenced under the reign of John "Sans Terre" (Lack-land), John I. of England, with the exception of the tower of St. Remain, tlie base of which is of anterior date. Continued at different dates, it was completed in 1477 by Cardinal d'Estoutville. The principal facade comprised between the tower of St. Romain FRANCE. Route 52.-~HAVRE TO PARIS. Sll and the Tour de Beurre (" Butter Tower'') ivas finished in I'j.'JO by Cardinal d'Aniboisi". It is adorned with a ijrisit number of" statues, admirably executed, but partially destroyed by time, 'I'lie bas-re- liefs over the three entrances were mutilatedby theC'alx inistsinl.")6'J. The Tour >>t. Romuin is fVecjuently ascended for tlie fine view from the top. The Tour de Beurre, built with means received from the sale of induli!;'ences to use butter during- Lent, was finished in 1507, and is considered one of the most beautiful specimens of the architecture of the 15th cen- tury. The central s])ire rises to a height of -180 ft. Ihe interior of the Cathedral, which is striking from its oTundeur and the per- fect harmony of its proportions, is 435 ft. in length, and the height of the nave is 89^ ft. The three rows of windows in the nave and transepts are exceedingly fine. Nearly all the windows (130 in number) have stained glass — some of it dating from the 13th century. There are 25 chapels, in one of which is the tomb of Duke Rollo of Normandy, and in another that of William Long-Sword, his son. The statue of Richard C'our-de- Lion, found in 1838, the monu- ment of Cardinal d'Amboise and his brotlier, are in the Cliapel of the Virgin, behind the high altar, and, in the same chapel, is the tomb of Louis de IJreze, erected by Diane de Poitiers, his wife. This tomb is attributed to Jean Goujon, and to Jean Cousin. TuE CniHCH OF St. Oven, wliich is surrounded on three sides by gardens, is one of the most ferfect Gothic edifices in Europe. t was commenced in 1318 by Abbot Jean Uoussel Marc d'Ar- gent. It is in the form of a Latin cross. The princijial, or west portal, reconstructed in 1852, is between two pyramidal towers nearly as high as tin; central tower — which is 285 ft. high — .'ind is a model of graceful architi'cture. The interior is 'WS ft. long by 80 ft. wide, and is remarkably light and graceful. The churcn has 125 windows, filled with fine Stained glass, besides three rose- windows of remarkable beauty. This is one of the very few great churches of Europe which may be said to be finished. The church of St. jNIaclou is chiefly remarkable for its portal, wliich is in the florid Gothic style. The sculptures upon the panels of the doors are ot exquisite work- manship, and are attributed to Jean Goujan. In the interior the most remarkable object is the stone staircase (1519) conducting to the organ loft, which is a chej- d'auvre of sculpture. The churches of St. Patrice, St. Goddard and St, Gervais contain some interest- ing stained glass and paintings. The 11otel-de-\ ii.i.f, a hand- some building, was formerly part of the Monastery of St. Ouen. It has a fasade composed of two parallel pa^•ilions, and a peristyle in the centre with a Corinthian colonnade. Its great hall contains portraits of many celebrities who were born at Rouen, and in the vestibule are marble statues of Jeanne d'Arc and Corneille. in this edifice is the Muste de Tab- leaux, containing a i'e-w jiictures of merit. They may be seen from one till four. The Musce Uepnrte- meiital d\bitiq}iites,inthc Rue Im- periale, is well worth visiting, the collection being one of the richest in France. Among other objects is the door of Comeille's house, a frame containing ancient charts, one of which belonged to \\ illiam the CoiKpieror, some fine ancient stained glass, &c. The Public Library contains 111,000 volumes 212 Route 52.— HAVRE TO PARIS. FRANCE. and 2,960 manuscripts. Among other interesting objects in Rouen is the Tour de la Grosse Hoiioge, in the picturesijue street of that name, in which the principal clock of the city is placed. It was built in 1389. In the Place du Vieux-Marclit , called also tlie Place de la PucELLE, on the spot marked by a statue placed on a pump, the unfortunate Jeanne d'Arc was burned by the English, May 30th, 1431, after a long trial, for sorcery and heresy, accompanied by many shameful circumstances. Her family, who had been ennobled on her account, obtained in 1440 a revisal of her trial, and in 1456 she was formally pronounced to have been innocent. Next to Lyons, Rouen is the roost important manufacturing town in the empire. The principal branch of industry is the manu- facture of cotton, which has given to it the name of the Manchester of France. It has also extensive manufactories of hosiery, mixed silk and wool fabrics, blankets, cordage, cotton and linen yarns, steel, chemicals, &c. Its industry also includes shipbuilding and machinery. Rouen was the residence of the Dukes of ]\'ormandy until Duke William, in 1066, on the conquest of England, transferred the seat of his Court to London ; and, up to the time of Richard Cceur de Lion, it continued to be the capital of Normand} , and the seat of Go- vernment of the Norman posses- sions of William the Conqueror's successors ; but in 1204 it was taken by siege by the French king, Philip Augustus, and annexed, with the main part of the duchy, to the possessions of the French crown. During the wars of Henry V. and Henry VL of Eng- land it was under the power of ihe English, from 1419 to 1449, when it was retaken by the French under Charles VIL It was during this temporary period of its occu- pation by the English that the heroic Jeanne d'Arc was burned. Taking our departure from Rouen, we pass through several cuttings and tunnels, on emerging from which we have a beautiful view of the Seine and of the city. On a hill to the left we observe the Pilgrimage Church of Notre Dame de ton Secours. We next reach Oissel (65 miles), beyond which we skirt the left bank of the Seine, which we soon afterwards cross. Near Pont de l'arche (68f miles) are the ruins of the Cister- ci:in monastery oi' Bon Porf, foun- ded by Richard Coeur-de-Lion in 1120. At St. Pierre de Vouvry {76% miles) a branch of 4J miles leads to the thriving town of Louviers, one of the principal seats of the cloth trade of France. Near Gaillon (85 miles) we see, at a distance to the northward, the Chateau de Gaillard, built by Richard Cceur-de-Lion, and his favourite residence. It is astriking ruin, aud worthy of a visit. It stands upon a rock above the Seine. We next stop at Vernon (Hotel: du Liond'Or), population 7,800, situated on the left bank of the Seine, in the Department of the Eure and near theForest of Vernon. It contains a handsome Gothic church, a venerable tower called the Tour des Archives^ and nume- rous picturesque old houses. There is a college here, founded by Henry IV. Its manufactures are cotton goods and velvets and it carries on a traffic with Paris in corn and meal. An avenue bordered with trees leads from the station to the Chateau de Bizy belonging to the Orleans family. The grounds are beautifully laid out. The noble English family of Vernon derives its name from this town. fHANCE. Routes^.— 11 AV RE TO PARIS. 213 Near Rosny (iOij- miles), on the Seine, stands tlie old Vlititeaii, where Sully, the minister of lli'iiry I\'. Wits horn; the i,'rmiiids ex- tend for 11 consideruhle distance alonnf the river-side. Mantes (105J miles), (Hotels: (hand Cerf, des I'ostillons), is renowned as the place where William the Conc|ueror, after reducing the greater portion of it to ashes, met with the injury that caused his death. The church of \otre Dame is a noble Gotliic buildinj^ of the I'Jth century, with a fine stained- glass representation of the Last Judgment in the window at the western extremity. The scenery about the Seine is verv ])leasing as we proceed towards Triel (12l4 miles), in the church of which there is a painting of the "Adora- tion of the Shepherds," attributed to Poussin. At /'o(.ssi/(l'i6|miles), the birth-place of St. Louis, the font in which he was baptized is still preserved. In 1561 the abor- tive Conference of Poissy was held here, with the view oi efi'ect- ing a reconciliation between the Churches of Home and Geneva. An old bridge of 37 arches crosses tlie Seine at this place. The largest cattle-market in France is held here on Thursdays. We now cross part of the forest of St. Ger- main to Muisitns (132 J miles), (Hotel: Talma). This liotel was once the residence of the great tragedian of tiie name. The Chdtenu was occupied for a time by Voltaire. Leaving liaisons, a journey of less than half an hour brings us to Paris. PARIS. Population in 1871, 1,950,000. (5ee Plan, in cover.') OTKLS. The largest hotels in Paris, or on tiie Continent, are the Ghano lIoTK.i.,* IJoule- vard des Capucines, and the 1 Iotel Du Louvre,* in the Rue de Rivoli, both managed by the same com- pany. The following smaller esta- blishments are among the hotels also frequented by American and English travellers: IIdtel: de l'Atiienee,* Rue Scribe; Hol- LANDE,* IVestminster, Mirabeau, in the Rue de la Paix ; Sptetulide, Avenue Aapoleon; Bhistol,* du Rhin, in the Place Vendome ; Meiirice, Brighton, duJardin, Wu^- ram, de la Place du Palais Roiiat, in the Rue de Rivoli ; des Deux Mondes, Rue d'Antin ; de Lille et d' Albion, St. Jumes, de France et de Bath, in the Rue St. Honorc ; de i^'Emvihe,* d'Orieiityde I' Amiraute, Chutluim, in the Rue Neuve St. Augustin ; du Parlement,* Bou- levard de la -Madeleine; St. Peters- burg, RueCaumartin ; Vouillmont, Rue Boissy d'Anglas ; Meyerbeer, Champs Elysees. These are all excellent establish- ments, and tlie tarifi" of charges is very nearly the same. There are a multitude of hotels of every grade throughout the capital, suited to the needs and means of tourists, men of business, students and others, of which the limits of this work will not permit further mention. Furnished Apartments, indi- cated by yellow placards, in which rooms are let in suitts or singly, may be had in every part of the city. In the quarters frequented by' English and American families 214 PARIS. FRANCE* the apartments are generally well furnished, and are usually let at prices which may be regarded as reasonable in view of the enormous rents demanded by the landlords of modern Paris. Suites, suitable for families, may be had in the quarters indicated, at from 400 to 1000 francs per month. Strangers taking apartments should be ex- tremely careful in verifying the inventory of furniture, as gi^ss abuses are frequently practised by insisting upon payment for damage to furniture, which may have been caused by previous tenants. It is well to entrust the details to an experienced and re- putable house agent. Pensions, or boarding-houses, at which strangers may live very comfortably, and more economi- cally than at the hotels, abound in Paris. The names of respectable pensio7is may always be liad at the offices of the English house agents. The American bankers are usually ready to furnish such information to their clients. American Banking-houses. — Several American banking-houses have establishments in Paris. Tlie premises occupied by tliem are in central positions, are very com- modious, and include spacious reading-rooms for the use of their clients, supplied with American and other journals, and post- offices, where the letters of clients are received and delivered. Be- side these facilities the principals of these establishments, or their employes, are always ready to impart to persons doing business with them, any desired information in relation to funds, routes, couriers, places of residence, pur- chases, &:c. In describing Paris, the author has pursued the course adopted in describing other large cities; he has not attempted to dictate to the reader the order in which its ob- jects of interest may be seen, but has confined himself to descrip- tions of them, leaving the order of the visits to tlie taste or conveni- ence of the reader. Paris is built on a plain on both sides of the River Seine, here flowing from south-east to north- west. Its original name, as men- tioned by Cffisar, was Lutetia, a word supposed by some to have been derived from lutum (mud), as descriptive of the marshy nature of the ground — the puliis perpeiua of Cffisar — on which the city stands. Of its present name a more satisfactory account is given. The Parisii, who anciently inha- bited the district in which Lutetia was situated, would in process of time naturally impart their name to the capital of the province in which they lived. At what time, however, the change of name was made cannot be exactly deter- mined. It could not have been earlier tlian towards the end of tlie fifth century, for Julian, who resided here for some time, speaks of it in 458 as his "dear Lutetia." The country on all sides of the city is level, and presents little diversity of jihysical appearance. On the north and north-east it rises into low hills. These hills, which are separated by narrow valleys or plateaux, as those of Si. Denis to the north, Ivry to the east, MontrcKge to the south, and G rem lie to the south-west, are en- circled at a distance of from two to five mih'S, by an outer range of lieiglits, including Villejuif, Meu- don, St. Cloud and Mont-t'altrien, the latter being the highest point in the immediate vicinity of the city. The southern parts of the city are built over beds of lime- stone, rich in fossils, which have been so extensively quarried as to have become a mere network FRANCE. PARIS. 215 of vast caverns, which in some cases scarcely afford sufficient support to tlie houses above. These ([uarries were converted in 1784 into catacombs, in wliich are deposited tlie bones of the dead collecti'd t'rum the ancient cemeteries of l^iris. 'J'he Seine, which enters Paris at the south- east, at liercy, and leaves it be- low Auteil in the west, divides the city into two parts and forms the two islands of La Cite and St. Louis, which are both covered with buildinjjs. In tlie middle ages Paris was divided into three distinct jjarts, Lu Lin on the island, the Viiie on the right bank, and the Quaitier Latin, or Uni- versity, on the left bank of the river. Louis XL did much to enhirge tlie city and to efface the disastrous results of its occupation by the English during the wars under Henry V. and Henry \1. of Kngland,'but its progress was again checked during the wars of the last of the \alois, when the city sustained several sieges. On the accession of Henry IV. in 1589, a new era was opened. The improvements commenced under his reign were continued during the minority of his son Louis XI II., and on the accession of Louis \l\. the completion of several bridges, roads and quays, and the erection of various public and private palaces had put a new face on the old city. To the Grand Monaniue Paris owed a still greater debt, for in addition to the opening of eighty new Streets and the conversion of the old ramparts into public walks, or bouteviiids, he organised a re- gular system of police, established drainage and sewerage, founded hospitals, alms-houses, public schools, scientific societies, dra- matic institutions, and learned establishments of various kinds; and thus gave to Paris the indis- pulahli- right of bi'ing regarded as the focus of Kuropean civilisa- tion. 'J'he l{evolution causi-d a temporary reaction ; the i'arisian mob of that period were more in- tent on destroying historical re- cords of the [last than in erecting monuments for the future. It needed all the genius of Napoleon to obliterate the damage done to the French metropolis during the reign of the people. Witli a strong hand he arrested the further de- molition of the city, and with ex- traordinary rapidity Paris was remodelled on a new and grander scale. New quays, bridges, mar- kets, streets, squares and public gardens were created. All the treasures of arts and science which his conquests had jilaced in his jKjwer were approjiriated and ap- plied to the embellishment of the capital, in tlie restoration of which he spent vast sums. The down- fal ot the Emperor arrested further progress, and deprived I'aris of many of her ill-gotten treasures. Under Louis Will, and Charles X. little was done to- wards the improvements of the city. Renovation of various sorts commenced under Louis I'hilipjie, but as lately as 1834 much of the old condition of things remained; the gutters ran down the middle of streets, there was little under- ground drainage, oil lamps wei;e suspended on cords over the mid- dle of the streets, and, excejtt in one or two streets, there were no side walks. The introduction of a copious sujiply of water, of gas, and a better kind of street paving are due to the reign of Louis Pliilijipe. It was reserved, how- ever, for Xapoleon III. to render Paris a thoroughly modern city. I'nder his rule it may be said to have been almost rebuilt. Streets were widened and beautified. 216 PARIS. FRANCE. and new and spacious thorough- fares opened up through old and crowded districts. In the present day, cliiefly tlirough his policy, Paris excels, in comfort and iieauty, all the cities in the world, and has accordingly be- come a centre of universal at- traction. The city is built of a, light coloured limestone, easily wrought. The houses are reared in huge blocks, rising to a height of six or seven stories, each floor constituting a distinct dwelling, access to all the floors in a tene- ment being gained by a common staircase, which is usually placed under the charge of a porter, or concierge, at the entrance. Paris in 1870-1. Since the appearance of the first edition of this work, remarkable events have occurred in the his- tory of Paris and of France. The reign of Napoleon III., whicli, in July, 1870, seemed likely to en- dure for years, was suddenly brought to an end by the revolu- tion which followed tlie defeat of the French army, and the sur- render of the Emperor as a pri- soner of war, on September ^nd, 1870, at Sedan. The war having been continued by the " Govern- ment of National Defence," Paris was invested by the German army on the 19th day of September, 1870, and endured a siege which ranks among the most memorable of modern times. The city was obliged, for lack of provisions, to surrender on January tiSth, 1871, tbe inliabitants liaving been com- pelled to consume more than 60,000 horses for food. After tlie fall of Paris, and the close of tlie war, the unfortunate city fell into the hands of the revolutionists, and on March 18, 1871, the Government of France being established at Versailles, Paris was seized by a body of men calling themselves a " Commune," which, being sus- tained by a large proportion of the National Guard, openly declared war against the established and recognised Government of France. They closed the gates of the city, organized armies for its defence, and carried on a regular war against the Government. During the continuance of this unhappy struggle, the Government, having possession of Fort V^alerien and other works, fired continually upon Paris, and great loss of life and damage to property ensued. Tourists who will visit the streets bordering on the Champs Elysees, near the Arc de Triomphe, the Avenue de la Grande Armee, Neuilly, and Auteuil, will see abundant evidence of the severity of the fire. Many houses are de- molished, and hundreds bear the marks of shot and shell. The Arc de Triomphe bears the marks of numerous missiles. Shells fell in many places in the Champs Ely- sees, as far down as the Palais de I' Industrie. During the reign of the Com- mune occurred the massacre of peaceful citizens in the Rue de la Paix and Place Vendome, a pro- cession of " the friends of order " having been fired upon by Na- tional Guards stationed behind barricades in the Place Vendome. The number killed is stated to have been fifteen. Among many acts of Vandalism committed in tlie name and by authority of the Commune, the most notable were the pulling down of the magnificent column in the Place Vendome on the 16th day of May, 1871, and the demo- lition of the private hotel of M. Thiers in the Place St. George, 8. FRANCE. PARIS. tl7 On Sundaj, May 28th, 1871 tlie Governiiicnt troojis eiiteroil Paris at the .St. Cloud fjati- and be^tin to drivi' the Coiimiuiiists t'roin tlio Western (|uartarterre. Jakdin du Palais Royai.. This garden, being a public passage, is opened very earlv in the morning and closed at miilnight. In sum- mer the band {days on iNIondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, from 6 to 7, or 5 to 6. Jaudin Zoologique d'Acclima- TATioN, Bois de Boulogne, near tlie Porte IMaillot. Open every day. Price of admission : on week days, 1 franc for the garden and hothouses ; on Sundays, 50 cents, for the garden only, and 50 cents, for the hothouses. Lafayette, Grave of. Every day ; fee to concierge of Convent. Library oFTniCossERVATOinE DES Arts et Metiers. Open every day except JNlondays, from 10 till 3. Library of Saint Genevieve, Place du Pantheon, open every day, except Sundays and holy- days, from 10 to ;j, and in the evening, from 6 to 10. X'acation from 1st September to 15th Oc- tober. Library of the jNIuseum of Natirai. History, at the Jardin des Plantes. Open every day, except Sundays and holydays, from 10 to 3. jManufacture des Gobelins. With tickets from the superin- tendent, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 1 to 3 in winter, and from 2 to 4 in summer. Strangers are admitted on the same days and hours on present- ing their passports. Manufacture de Porcei.aine DE Sevres. 'ihe show-rooms may be viewed from 11 to 4. I'he Mus{'e Ceramique is only open to •the public on Thursdays; on the other days of the week a jier- mission is necessary. The work- rooms can only be seen by sjwcial permission ( rarely granted; from tlie Adininistrateur. -Manlfac I luts des Tadacs, 6;5, (^wai d'Orsay. Kvery day, witli permission from the superin- tendent, obtainable at tiie office. Mint. On Tuesdays and Fri- days, from 12 to .'3. For special ticket to visit laboratory and work- shops, apply to M. le I'resiilent de la Commission des Moitnaies, Hotel de Monnaies. MrsEE d'Artillerie, 99, Place St. Thomas d'A(|uin. On Thurs- days, from 12 to 4. JMUSEES DE ClVNV ET DES Thermes. Ojien on Sundays from 11 to 4. Open every week-day (Mondays excepted) at the same hours, to persons with tickets, to be procured from the Directeur du Musee des Thermes, and to foreigners with passports. ^IVSFE DU LOUVUE. OpCll tO the public every day except Mon- day, from 10 till 4. .Misi.E Dv LuxE:MBnuRG (con- temporary painting and sculpture ; entry by garden at the nortn-east corner of the palace, near the gate- way). Open every day, except JMonday, from 10 to 5. Open to students the same day and hours. Notre Dame. The treasury is visible every day from 12 to 4; ticket, 50 centimes. The entrance to the towers is in the northern tower (fee, 20 c. each person). Palais des Beaux Arts, 14, Rue Bonaparte. Open daily, from 10 to 4. Palais du Corps Lf.gislatif. Visible every day from 8 a.m. to 5 or 6 p.m., when the ciiambers are not sitting. Apply to tiie porter (small fee). A gallery with 20 seats is reserved for the public 220 PARIS. ERANCE. during the sittings, but sixty ad- ditional seats are reserved for those who obtain tickets by apply- ing to members of the Legislative body. Palais de Justice. Open every day except Sundays and holydays. Palace of the Elysee. Per- mission to visit this is rarely ac- corded. Application may be made to General Kolin, Palace of tlie Tuileries. Palais de l' Industrie, in the Champs Elj'sees. Open every day to foreigners on jn-esentation of passports, except when in use for exhibitions. Palais Royal. The apart- ments of the palace are not open to the public. Palais des Tuileries. Gene- rally visible on application to the concierge. Palais du Luxembourg. Visi- ble every day from 10 to 4, when the senate is not in session. (For the galleries, see Musees). Panorama National (Champs Elysees). Ever;^ day from 10 to 5 ; admission, 2 francs. Sainte Chapelle, Palais de Justice. Every day, except Sun- days and ]iolydays,'from 11 to 4, on presentation of passport. Saint Genevieve or Pantheon. The guardians show the dome and crypt every day, for a fee. Saint Sulpice. The entrance to the towers (20 c. each person), is in the nortliern tower, Rue Saint Sulpice. Sewers. Permission to visit the sewers is sometimes obtained by application, in writing, to the Bureau des traveaux publics. Hotel de Ville. SoRBONNE. The amphitheatres are open during lecture hours. The church is open on Sundays and holidays ; on the other days it is open from an early hour until 9 in the morning, and in the afternoon from 1 to 3. To see Cardinal Richelieu s Tomb, a fee to the guardian is requisite. Churches. Notre Dame stands on a site successively occupied by a Pagan temple and a Christian basilica of the time of the Merovingian kings. The present building was con- structed between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries, and, in its pre- sent state of restored magnificence, it may rank as one of the noblest specimens of Gothic architecture. It is of a regular cruciform shape, with an octagonal east end, two flanking towers with flying but- tresses, and a new central spire, 135 ft. high above the roof, re- markable, like every other part, for its delicate and elaborate tracery. It is 390 ft. long, and 102 ft. high, with transepts 144 ft. wide. Although most of the painted windows are modern, the grand rose-windows, which give a characteristic beauty to the whole building, are of ancient date. The interior of the church is composed of a principal nave, flanked on either side by two col- lateral naves, which are continued around the choir. There are thirty- seven chapels surrounding the edi- fice. Twelve large pillars sustain the principal vaults, and comprise altogether 297 columns. There are also 113 painted windows. The choir is enclosed by a small gallery of open iron-work, of ele- gant design, and is adorned with curious carvings in wood. Visitors are admitted to the sacristy on payment of 50 centimes. Here may be seen tlie relics, con^ sisting of a piece of the cross, part of the crown of thorns, &c., and the church utensils and vestments, wliicli are exceedingly rich and curious. Among other robes are FRANCE. PARIS. 221 those worn by Pius ^ II. at tlie coronation of Xajioli'on 1. In .\ovembf'r,17'9.'},tlie National Convention (Iccrepci the abolition of tbe Catiiolic n'li-^ion, and esta- blished in its stead the Kelitjion of Reason. Hy the same decree the name of Xotre Dame was clianj^ed to Temple of Reason, and here was set up the goddess of Reason. On the 1st of December, 1801, the coronation of Na])oleon took place at Xotre Dame, the Pope Pius VII. officiating at tlie cere- mony ; and here on tiie I'Jth of January, 18.53, tbe late Emperor and Empress were married. The JMADELF.iNE,be!;uninl764, and completed in 185^, is in tbe Grecian style. Tbe form of tbe edifice is oblonpf. It is surrounded on the outside with Corinthian columns 50 ft. hig^li. The pedi- ment (120 ft. long by 25 ft. hip^h) represents tbe Last Judgment. Along the galleries are thirty-four statues of male and female saints, by different artists. It has one single nave, four bays (one being for the choir), with compartments and ceihngs, painted and gilded. On the grand iiltar is tbe Assump- tion in white marble, sculptured by iNIarochetti. Behind tbe altar is a painting by Ziegler, repre- senting the Magdalen at the feet of Christ, surrounded by Apostles, Evangelists, and a group of his- torical personages — Constantine, Godefroy de 13ouillon, Clovis, Barbarossa, Jeanne d'Arc, Ra- phael, Dante, Xapoleon I.,&c. Sainte-Gf.nevievk (tub Pan- theon) is a Greco-Roman edifice, commenced in 1764, and dedicated by the Constituent Assembly to the memory of tbe great men of France, under tbe name of the Pantheon. It was re-opened for public worship in 18.51. Fift(>en steps lead to tbe peristyle, wiiicli is surmounted by a triangular ju'diment, sujiported by twenty- two fluted columns. TJie in- scription on tbe pediment is ".lur grands homines la jxitrie rrconnais- sante." Untured oak. In the upper chapel, the attention is principally attracted by the mag- I FRANCE. PARIS. 993 nificent stained glass of tlip 15 windows ; tlie statues of the twelve A postles on brackets placed afjaiiist tiie pillars of the nave; a very fine altar; the niches, or places of honour, formerly reserved for tlie kiiii( and the royal family; the E rated window of the oratory of ouis XI.; and tiie open screen behind tlie altar, the middle arcii of which bears a platturin with a Gothic canopy, upon which the holy relics, now at Notre Dame, were formerly exposed. Notwith- standing the destruction by tire of the adjoining Palace of Justice in JMay, 1871, this beautiful church was not materially injured. Saint Eistaciik (near the Halles Centrales) was rebuilt in 1332-16 1-1 , witli tlie exception of the principal entrance, wliicii, com- posed of the Doric and Jonic orders, forms a porch and an ex- terior gallery surmounted by a pediment. On the left is a small tower, ornamented with fluted Corinthian columns. The porches on the north and south are in the Style of the sixteenth century. It has a large arclied door ; large foliated pilasters; two ranges of galleries; several rows of balus- trades; mullioned rose-window, and small spires. There is a superb campanile in the centre, and on the apsis of the church. In the interior are two side aisles, with chapels extending along each side of the principal nave, and continuing behind the choir. In the transepts are sUitues of the twelve Apostles, bas-reliefs and mural paintings. The windows of the choir and apse (several of which are attributed to Philip jie de C ham- paigne), represent the Apostles, the Fathers of the Roman Church, and Saint Eustache. The music at this church is very fine. This church was badly damaged by the insurgents in 31ay, 1871. Saint Gkrmain L'AirxFiinois (Place du Louvre) was originally built in the 10th century, restored in the loth, and again in the 18th centurj', and finally by Lassus under Louis Philip|)e. '1 he facade was built in* the l.itii and l(jth centuries. The porch has tine oval arches, sunnounted by a balustrade, which runs arounci the building, and is adorned by fres- coes on a gold ground. The gable is pointed, and flanked by two hexagonal turrets. The principal door dates from the commence- ment of tlie 13th century. The portico of the south transept is remarkable for its sculptures. There is a stpiare tower (of the 12th century) in the angle formed by this transept and the nave of the choir. I n the i>olygonal tower, between the church and themairie, is a magnificent chime of bells, recently placed there. In the interior are a nave, double side-aisles, transepts, lateral clia- pels of tiie l.jth and 16th centu- ries, choir and apse of the 13th century. From the belfiry of this church the signal was given on the i!3rd of August 1.^72, for the massacre of St. Bartholomew. Saint Rocii (Rue S;unt IIo- nore) was commenced in 1633, and finished in 1736. The portal, ofthe Doric and Corinthian orders, was restored between 1863 and 1866. In the interior is a nave, 2 side aisles, 18 lateral chapels, and 3 larger chapels behind the choir. The pillars are decorated with Doric pilasters. The church lias a singular pulpit, designed by Charles and restored by Laperclie. The steps, which extend along the whole front, liave been the scene of many stirring events. During the Directory, tlie crowd collected here was dispersed wirli cannon by order of Napoleon. 224 PABIS. FRANCE. The music at the services in this church is very line. Saint Sulpice was commenced in 1646, subsequently continued and enlarged, and finislied in 1749. The princiijal facade has two por- ticoes (Doric and Ionic super- posed), and two towers, each 230 ft. high. Statues of Saint Peter and Saint Paul are placed on the right and left of the principal door. The interior has 3 naves, se- parated by Corinthian pillars, flanked by side chapels, and the choir is encircled by an aisle and chapels. Saint Gervais, situated behind the H6tel-de-Ville, was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. The front, of the 17th century, exhi- bits three orders of architecture, Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, superposed. In the northern angle of the transept and the choir, rises a Gothic tower, of the 16th or 17th century, from the ground-floor to the second story above. The interior consists of a nave with transept and aisles, and several chapels bordering the sides. There are the remains of some stained glass by Jean Cou- sin in the second chapel to the right. Notre-Dame de Loreffe was built in 1822, on the plan of a Roman basilica. It has a Corinthian porch and pediment, tlie latter sculptured by Nanteuil (the angels worshipping the infant Jesus ; at the corners, statues of the three cardinal virtues). The interior consists of a portico, nave, and two side aisles, and contains some remarkable paintings. The Chapelle Expiatoire, Boulevard Haussman, built in 1820 by order of Louis XVIII., to the memory of Louis XVI., Marie - Antoinette, and other victims of the Itevolution, has been surrounded by a square, with elegant railings. The principal entrance represents an antique tomb, with a portico of the Doric order in marble. Within, are statues of Louis XVI. and Marie- Antoinette, each supported by an angel. Beneath, is a subterranean chapel, with an altar, which stands over the spot where Louis XVI. was buried. In one corner of this chapel is pointed out the spot where IMarie - Antoinette was originally buried. Sainte Clotilde (Place Belle Chassee), was built between 1846 and 1857, in the style of the thirteenth century. The facade is composed of three great ogives, witli sharp pediments and bas- reliefs. To the riglit and left are towers terminating in handsome spires 200 ft. high. Saint Etienne du Mont (near the Pantheon). This church, some parts of which date as far back as 1121, was finished in 1626. Externally it has little to attract attention. In the interior is a fine gallery, on low elliptic arches, surrounding the nave and the choir. The key-stones of the vault are remarkable for their ornaments. The elaborate tomb of Sainte-Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris (sixth century), is in the chapel of the same name. Saint Vincent de Paul ( Place La Fayette), was constructed, from 1814 to 1824, on the plan of a basilica. The approaches to it consist of an amphitheatre of in- clined planes of hewn stone, from which leads an imposing flight of steps, with advancing peristyle, having three rows of Ionic colunms, and sculptured pedi- ment. It has an attic, flanked by two square towers (180 ft. high), surmounted by a terrace with balustrade, bearing statues of the Evangelists. In the interior, the ceiling of the principal nave is in FBANCE. PARIS. 225 wood, with hare girdnrs decorated and oniatiii'iitcd witli coiii]Ktrt- mcnts, sculjjtures, and incrusta- tions. La Thimik was completed in 1867. Its Icngtli is 300 ft., and its width 100 ft. 'Jill- fa^adi- is in tliH Renaissance style, and has a portico sunnounted by a fine second story, and a steeple 'iOO ft. in heiglit. An ojien balustrade runs round the wall of the gable, and on the riijht and left are two turrets, contaiiiins^ staircasi'S, which lead to the galh'rics and ujjper portions of tlie edifice. The interior contains some fine paint- ings. In front of the churcli is a square (of about 3,700 yards area) surrounded by a stone balustrade, and adorned witii three fountains. Among other churches worthy a visit, are. Vale de Grace, la Sor- honne (where are the remains of Richelieu), 67. Louis en I'lle, .St. Philippe, St. Aiigiistiii (a fine new church. Boulevard Malcsherbes), St. Merri, the ('lia])el of St. Ferdinand (No. 10 Route de la Revolte), erected upon the scene of the death of the Duke of Orleans, in 1842, the Russian Church, &ic. Protestant CnunciiES (Eng- lish and American. The English churches are as follows: — Episcopal, \o. 3, Rue d'Aguesseau ; 10, bis, Avenue Marbocuf; and 3.5, Hue Boissy d'Anglas. Pieshi/lerian (Church of Scotland), Chapel of tlie Ora- toire, 160, Rue de Rivoli ; Con- gi-egational Chapel, Ao. 23, Rue Royale. American Churches. — The Ameri- can Chapel, 21, Rue de Berry ; 'American Episcopal Church, Rue Bayard. Palaces. The T.OL'VRE, on the site of which once stood a fortri'.ss, built by Phili]) Augustus, wa.s com- menced by Francis I. in l.")82, and was finally com j)li'f.'d by .Napoleon J. The colonnade, facing the Church of St. (iermain-l'.Auxer- rois, was built in \6lirt, and con- sists of twenty-eight columns and pillars of the CoriiitJiian order, j)laced in coujiles, surmounted liv a tine pediment, decorated witii bas-reliefs, it is considered one of the finest colonnades in exis- tence. The other fronts, thouu'h less bold, are very fine. The southern front is decorated with forty Corinthian pilast.-rs, and has a rich pediment over the central compartment. The interior court is a mxster- piece of French architecture. The facades comprise a ground floor divided into arcades, a retreating first story, and an attic. There are numerous pavilions, chiefly remarkable for the ornate archi- tecture of their facades, tlie ])edi- ments and entablatures being pro- fusely adorned with statues and allegorical groups. 'J"he LorvuE was finally joined to the Tuileries by Aapoleon 1 11. On the fiif ade of the Pavilion Sullif, situate on the southern side of the late Place Napoleon III . ( in wliich is one of the entrances to the gal- leries\ is amavble .slab, containing inscri])tions, of which the follow- ing are translations ; 1541. Francis I. commenced the Louvre. 1564. Catherine de Medicis commenced the Tuileries. 18.'>2-7. Napoleon 111. joined the Tuileries to the Louvre. Palace OF THE Tuileries. The place occupied by the palace and % W\^ Ih'hf O Q Z • by the Cardinal Riclielieu, who purchased two hotels which formerly stood upon its present site. The edifice was first called Palais Cardinal. At his death it passed into the hands of l>oui3 XIIL In 1643 Anne of Austria occupied it with lier son, Louis XIV., and it then took the name of Palais Royal. In 1781 the Duke of Orleans (Philippe-Ega- lite) conceived the project of sur- rounding the garden with build- ings to be let out to tenants. After the death of the Duke of Orleans, Pestaurants, Cafes and Playhouses were established in the Palais Royal. In 1807 it became the property of the Crown, and tlie Tribunal of Commerce and the Bourse were established in it. In ISll it again became the property of the Orleans flimily, and the Bourse and Tribunal of Commerce were removed. In 1848 it took the name of the Palais Xational, and on the 2nd December, 18.51, by decree, the name of Palais Poyal was restored. A court-yard, shut in, to the south, by a porticoed wall, runs 228 PARIS. FRANCE. along the front of the palace ; to the east rises a pavilion of Doric andlonic architecture. The facades of the court-yard are composed of Doric and Ionic pilasters. This Palace was hurned by the Com- munists on the day when they de- stroyed the Palace of the Tuileries and other public edifices. Surrounding the central square or garden of the Palais Royal are tlie Galerie d' Orleans, which surpasses in magnificence the finest Parisian Passages, the Galerie de Valois to the east, the Galerie Montpeiisier to the west, the Galerie Beaujolais to the north, containing fine shops of jewellers, &c. One hundred ana eighty arcades, composed of two stories, with fluted pilasters and balustrades, shut in the Galerie d'Orleans and the Jardin du Palais Royal. The palace was formerly in- habited by the Prince Napo- leon. Cardinal Richelieu died in it, and here Franklin and Voltaire were officially received. It was sacked by the mob on the 24th of February, 1848, and not only was the interior badly da- maged, but the large collection of paintings (with the exception of about a dozen), works of art, and furniture were completely destroyed. The garden is a fa- vourite place of resort for the Parisians. Here are some of the best of the restaurants of Paris, the Trois Frires, Vefour, &c. A military bund plays in the garden every evening in summer, except on Mondays. Palace of the Institute, on the Quai Conti, formerly the Col- lege Mazarin, was built in t66'2. Having served during the Revo- lution as a house of detention, and as a meeting place for the Committee of Public Safety, it became in 1795 the Palace of the Institute of France. It contains the aiazarin Library of 120,000 volumes and 50,000 manuscripts. In the centre of the concave seg- ment of a circle, forming the front, is the cliurch, now the hall where the meetings are held. Above the front is an attic surmounted by a dome, which is one of the most conspicuous objects on that side of the Seine. Palace of the Corps Legis- LATiF (formerly the Palais Bourbon). This palace was com- menced by the Dowager Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. It afterwards became the property of the Prince de Conde, by whom it was greatly enlarged at a cost of twenty mil- lion francs. It was among the mansions plundered in the Revo- lution. The Council of Five Hun- dred for a time held its sittings here. It afterwards became the property of the Due d'Aumale, and was eventually purchased by the Government for the Chamber. The facade, built in 1804, con- sists of twelve Corinthian columns resting on a flight of twenty-nine steps. It has several courts, the principal one being adorned with statues. Among the apartments are the Salle des Quatre Colonnes, Salle de la Paix (containing a copy of the Laocoon, V'irginius and a Minerva in bronze, and with a ceiling painted by Horace Vemet), the Salle du TrSne, Salle Casimir Pdrier, and Salle des Conferences. Tlie Salle des Seances, or the Legis- lative Hall, is semicircular, orna- mented with twenty-four columns of the Ionic order in white marble with bronze gilt capitals. The cupola is ornamented with ara- besques. The Palace of the Elysee Napoleon (fiifades on the Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honor6 and the Champs- Ely sees) was built in FRANCE. PARIS. 229 1718 for the Comto d'Errpux, and was aft('ru;u-ds purcliiist'd and oc- cupied by MaduniH de i'ompadour. AltiT pas-sLuj^ throuijh various hands it became the |)roperty of the Cixjwn in 180t, and was a favourite residence of Napoleon I. On the l'aubourf;;-Saiiit-Honore side, ajJfaUery irateway in the form of a triuiuj)hai arch, comjjosed of one story and an attic, over which is a terrace crowned by a stone balustrade, encloses the court- yard. To the right and left of the entrance are groups of Corintiiian columns supporting a trophy of arms and flags. On the Champs-Elystes side is a garden with fine old trees, which extends to the avenue Gabriel. Permission to visit tlie apartments is rarely grauttjd. They are finely decorated and sumptuously fur- nished, and consist of the Salle de Reception, Chambre de Napoleon 1. (which was his bed-room), SulU des Souvraiiii and Salle de Travail, in which last X apoleon signed his final abdication. Crowned heads visiting Paris are usually lodged in this palace. The 1'ai.ais du Luxembourg, commenced in 1()15, nearly com- pleted in 16'JO, and enlarged in 1804, after having been succes- sively a habitation of the royal family, a prison during the Revo- lution, the palace of the Directory and Consulate, the palace of the Senate under the Empire, and the palace of the peers under the Restoration and Louis Philippe, is set apart at the present day for the Senate. The principal facade, on the side of the rue de Tournon (260 ft. long), is composed of a central pa\niion, surmounted by a cupola, and flanked by two gal- leries which unite witli the corner pavilions. The lateral fayades are each 150 yards long. Tlie apartments whicli can be visited are: — the SaJle dfs durdei (ancient oratory and jirivate cabi- net of .Marie de Medicis), con- taining some fine wood carving; Suite d'Atleiite, containing marble statues of " Hope," " Julius C'icsar," and " Achilles and Uriseis" (the frescoed ceiling by Jadin represents Aurora); the ^/(i;i de i' Kntjiereiir (formerly the reception-room of the Regency), in which are pictures rej)resenting the interview between the Duke de Guise and the president Harlay, Charlemagne dictating his capitu- laries, Saint lx)uis, and the clian- cellor I'Hopital delivering the seals to the king, Charles l.\. (the ceiling, painted by Decaisne, re- presents L'nion, Force, and Abun- dance); the Salle du. Troiie, one of the most magnificent halls in Europe, containing splendid deco- rations, which have been entirely restored within the last few years ; these include numerous allegorical com}X)sitions, of which those in the central gallery are " The Apothe- osis of Napoleon L," and " Peace and War," while the paintings on the piers represent various scenes from the history of the first and second empires. The hemi-cycles at the two extremities are painted with representations of the history of French civilization. The throne stands at the central point of the wall on the right. U e next visit the Galerie des btstes, containing busts of generals, statesmen, 6lc. of the first empire. Tlie Salle des Seances (Hall of the Senate) is a semi-circular chamber, 9'2 ft. in diameter ; around it are statues of Charlemagne, Saint Louis, and other distinguished characters. The Private Saloon of tlie Emperor contains some fine paintings, among which are the Treaty of Campo Formio, the Constitution 230 PARIS. FRANCE. of the year Eight, the Entry of Napoleon III. into Paris, and his marriage. The Chambers of Marie de Medicis, wliich are shown, con- sist of tlie Suite d'Attente, and a bed-chamber elaborately deco- rated. I'he chapel of the palace is 69 ft. long by 20 wide, and is lighted by four windows, opposite whicli are paintings of St. Philip the Apostle curing the sick, St. Louis pardoning traitors, St. Louis burying the dead in Palestine, and the Marriage of the Virgin. Be- hind the high altar is a large fresco representing the Tlirone of God (from the Apocalypse). Behind the altar fronting the back en- trance is a painting by Simon White, an American artist, "The Adoration of the Shepherds." The Palace of the Quai d'Or- SAY was burned by the Commu- nists on May 24, 1871. The fa- 9ade represented two orders (Tus- can and Ionic) superposed, and surmounted by an attic with Co- rinthian pilasters, and having ar- caded windows, nine on each floor. The principal court was surrounded by a double row of arcades, the ground floor was occupied by the Council of State, and the first story and attic were devoted to the Coun DtS COMPTES. Le Palais de Justice. — This enormous range of buildings, which includes those occupied by the Courts of Justice, the Pre- fecture of PolicH and the Concier- gerie, stands on the site of a foi-- tress erected by the Romans. The present buildings, some of which were still unfinished when fired by theinsurgentsou May 24, 1871, occupy the places of those destroyed to make room for the new. The oldest part of the buildings, dating from tlie 13th century, is in the Cour Harlaif, where may be seen remains of the facade erected at that period. Since 1776 the palace was almost entirely reconstructed. It con- tained the usual apartments adapted to the use of tribunals, offices, &.c. The front, on the Boulevard du Palais, is fine, and the iron railings and gates are considered very ele- gant. The Conciergerie is upon the Quai de I'Horloge, the en- trance, however, is from the chief court of the patais. This prison is especially interesting from its as- sociation witli the events of the French Revolution. Here Maria Antoinette was imprisoned before her execution. The cell occupied by her is now the sacristy of the prison. During the Revolution, Camille Desmoulins, Herbert, Bailly, and Robespierre were prisoners here. It was also the prison of Madame Roland. Na- poleon III., after the failure at Boulogne, was imprisoned here in an apartment which is now oc- cupied by one of the officers of the prison, and is not shown. The two jjointed towers, which are conspicuous objects upon the quay, form part of the Concier- gerie, and are called Tour de C IHtiii *4""\t^#:%'^ ^ Applatoiis European Caiide Hook. BOULOG-NE Malbv 5- Soil:? l."iMiMi FRANCE. PARIS, 233 The Musee D'AnTiLLERir, in the Place St. Thomas irAcjuin, contains a liiu' collection of arms of all aj^t'S and connfrii'S. It is classed in cliroiu)lo':;ical order, from the fourtoontli century to the present time. In tlie armour gallery are cHigies of knights in armour of various pcriodsjattended by warriors on foot. Amiing the historical relics is the suit of armour worn by Henry, Duke of Guise, wlio was killed at Hlois in 1588. The Hag of the old Im- perial CJuard is preserved here, in a gilt frame. The ^li'sEUM of the Coxser- VATOiRE DKS Arts et Metikiis, 29'i, Rue St. Martin, contains a valuable collection of machines, drawings, models, and scieutific and mechanical apparatus, in- cluding liyilraulic machines, ap- paratus fur ligiiting and warming, agricultural machines, 6«:c. 6;c. The 1'alaceoii Scnooi. oi- Fine Arts, the name of which sulK- ciently indicates the object of its foundation, is in the Rue Bona- purte. The entrance to the first court is by a superb gate, deco- rated with two colossal busts of Puget and Poussin. In the first court is a marble Corinthian column surmounted by a bronze statue of Aliundance. iJehind this column is the beautiful front of a chateau, built in loOO at Gaillon, by Cardinal d'Amboise. On the left are sculptures from the facades of the Hotel Tiemotiille, formerly situated in the Rue liourdonnais. On the right is the ancient con- ventual chapel, the front of which is formed of the portal of the Cha- teau (i'Aitit, budt in 1318, by Henry II., for Uiana of Poitiers. This chapel consists of a single nave with an arched roof. At the end is a copy of Micliael Angelo's Last Judgment, and, iu the little Chapel of Marguerite de Valdis, are casts of the .Moses of ^liciiael Angelo, and the tombs ot .lulien and l.aurent de .Medicis, by the same artist, and also casts of the bronze doors of the ba[)- tistery of Florence, of which JNlichael Angelo said that they were "worthy to stand at the en- trance of Paradise." The interior of the Palace is not remarkable. Th(! Salle Louis XIV. and the Salle du Ci)iii(?i/ contain a collection of portraits of the most eminent members of the Academy. In the (ialerie de Rrix, which is divided into three parts by Corinthian pilasters, is a collection compose. apoleon 1. It was designed to commemorate the victories of the French army, which, in the space of four months, had destroyed the forces of Austria and Russia. The events of 1814 caused a suspension of the works. After the Revolution of 1830 the work was commenced anew, and the whole was complett-d in 1836, and inaugurated on the 'i9th of July in that year. It is by far the largest triumphal arch in existence. The northern ])ier, on the front towards the Champs Elyiees, has a group representing the departure of the army in 1792, tlie most prominent figure in wliich is the Genius of \\ ar calling the nation to arms. On the southern pier of this front is a group commemo- rative of the victories of 1810. It represents Napoleon, crowned with laurel by the Cioddess of Victory, while Fame proclaims his triumphs, and History engraves them on her tablets. Figures emblematic of conquered cities ai-e at his feet. On the front towards the Avenue de la Cirunde A rmte are groups ; that on the north representing Resistance (a young soldier defending his family from invaders; and behind them a warrior, slain in combat, falling from his horse) ; that on the south pier representing The Peace of 1815 (a warrior in the centre, returning his sword into its scab- bard ; a woman holds an infant, while another child is leaning upon her; another figure is represented as taming a bull ; ovur all is the 238 PARIS. FRANCE. figure of Minerva, emblematic of peace and the arts of civilization). These several groups are 36 ft. high. Of the groups in relief, in the compartments above the cor- nice tliat in the southern com- partment, on the eastern side, represents the Surrender of Mus- tapha Pacha at the battle of Aboukir ; tlie northern, the death of General Marceau, On the western front, the northern group represents the taking of Alex- andria, the other the passage of the bridge of Areola. Abo\ethe cornice, on the northern side of the structure, is the battle of Austerlitz, and, on the southern side, that of Jemappes. The frieze represents the departure of the armies, distribution of the flags, and the return of the annies. From the platfoi-m at the top of the Arc an extensive view may be had over the city and environs. Place de la CoNconoE. This, the most magnificent of all the places of Paris and of Europe, is situated between the garden of the Tuileries on tiie east, the Champs Elj'sees on the west, the Seine on the south, and the Rue Royale, and the Ministry of the Marine on the north. Its name has been frequently clianged. In 1763 an equestriau statue of Louis XV. was erected in the centre, and the place was called after that monarch. In 1792 the statue was demolished, and replaced by a plaster statue of Liberty, and the name became Place de la Con- corde. In the centre stands the obelisk of Luxor, presented to the Frencli government by the \^iceroy of Egypt, and which was brought from the ruins of Thebes to its present position in 1836, at an expense of two million francs. Two magnificent fountains adorn the Place. (That nearest the river was nearly destroyed during the fighting which occurred here on May 22, 1871.) The base of each is a basin 18 yards in dia- meter, of polished granite. This basin is surrounded by eight figures of Tritons and Nereids, each liold- ing a fish, from the mouth of which flows a jet of water. The middle basin is supported by a cylindrical column, standing on a hexagonal base. Seated around the column are six colossal figures, 95 ft. high, with their feet resting on the prows of ships, and between each figure is a dolphin. Tliis basin is surmounted by another and smaller one, supported by a column around which stand three figures of children, and between them swans with jets of water from tlieir beaks. Each of these fountains expends more than 7,000 cubic yards of water in 24 hours. The fountain nearest the Rue de Rivoli is dedicated to river, the other to maritime navigation. Besides these decorations there are, at the corners of the Place, uix)n stone pavilions, eight colossal statues, re|)resenting Lyons, Mar- seilles, Bordeaux, ]\ antes, Rouen, Brest, Lille, and Strasburg, the two last named being considered the finest. The guillotine upon which Louis XIV. was executed stood midway between the centre of the Place, and the entrance to the Champs Elysees, and that upon whicli Marie Antoinette was exe- cuted, stood midway between the centre of the Place and the gate- way of the Tuileries garden. On the spot where now stands the obelisk of Luxor, the guillotine was erected upon which, between January 20th, 1793, and May 3rd 1795, more than 2,800 persons suffered death. Among tliese FRANCE. PARIS. 2.19 were Charlotte Corday, Danton, Anacharsis C'lootz, Itobespierre, St. Just, and Couthon. The popular ujirisinjj wliicli led to the expulsion of i.ouis i'iiilippe, be- gan in this I'lacc, and the king and his family, escaping from the Tuileries, came upon the i'hice from the western gate of the gar- den, and went thince across it on their way to St. Cloud. The I'luce de Li Bastille, occu- pying the site of the ancient for- tress and prison, in the centre of which rises the column of July, 153 ft. in height, surmounted by a gilt figure of the Genius of Liberty. The" I};istille was captured by the people, July lltli, 1789. In the following "year it was de- molished by decree of the Na- tional Assembly. It was at a barricade erected by tlie insur- gents at the end of the Faubourg St. Antoine, near the Bastille, in June 18W, that Archbishop Afire ■was killed, in attemjiting to per- suade the people behind tlie bar- ricade to abandon their revolu- tionary attenij)ts. Thk Place dv Caiibousei., so called from a fete or CunouKel given here by Louis XIV. in June 1662, occupies that part of the open space which lies between the Palace of the Tuileries and the new Place Napoleon 111. Tlie latter name was given to the narrower square near the Louvre, in which are the two small gar- dens. This place was formerly encumbered with houses and nar- row streets. It was partially cleared under Louis Xl\'. and liis successors continued the work ; but it was not until the present reign that it became what we now see. At tiie entrance to the court of the palace from the Place is the Arc de Tiiomphe du Carrousel, a beautiful arch, -Kt ft. in height surmountrd by a group in bronze, representing X'ictory in a trium- piial chariot, drawn by four horses. It is copied from the ci'lrbrated group upon the (,'athe- dral of St. .Mark at X'enici', whicli was brought to I'arisby \a|)olfon, and restored by the Allies in 1815, with numerous o'her works of art which had been brought to Paris by the Emperor from con- quered places. This place has been the scene of many remark- able events in the history of France. In its centre, in April 1793, Lazowski was interred be- tween two trees of liberty, Robes- pierre delivering the funeral ora- tion. Here, a pyramid was raised to the memory of r\Iarat, and si>ntinels guarded it night and daj'. Two months afterwards, .Marat's body was thrown into the sewers. Upon this place the guillotine was first tried, and it was here that the attempt of Cadoudal to take the life ot Napoleon, by exploding an infernal machine, was made on the '24th of December 1800. Here also took place the popular as- semblages which preceded the bloody events of 1830. During the first French Revolution, this place was called the Place de la Fralernili. The Place Vendo.me was con- structed by Louis X IV. It was formerly called Place des Con- qnetes, and Place Louis le Grand. The column, which occupied the place where once stood a statue of Louis XIV., was erected by Napoleon in 1806, and the Place tlien received its present name, which it derived from the fact, that upon its site once stood the hotel of (Ja;sar Vendorae, son of Henry IV. and GabricIIe. The column was composed of stone, covered with bronze plates, made 240 .PARIS. FnANCE. from cannon taken from tlie Aiis- trians. The bas reliefs represented events in the military campaign of 1805. It was 133 ft. high. The statue at the top represented Na- poleon in Roman costume. This magnificent eolimm was pulled down and destroyed by order of the " Commune " on the Idth day is the new opera, has upon every side superb edifices. On the north stands the Grand Hotel, on the south extends the Boulevard des Capucines, and from it opens the Rue de la Paix, one of the finest streets of Paris, and the Avenue Napoleon. The elegant buildings recently erected in this neighbour - PORTE ST. MARTIN. of May, 1871. By this act of Van- dalism, Paris lost one of her most striking and beautiful monuments. The Place du Chateau d'eau, in the centi-e of which formerly stood the fountain from which it took its name, is surrounded by fine buildings, among which is the enormous Caserne du Prince Eugene, one of the largest bar- racks in Paris, capable of accom- modating 3,500 men. The Place du nouvel Opera, which may now be said to be the busiest and most frequented square in Paris, and in the centre of which hood render this one of the most attractive squares in the city. The Place du Chdlelet occupies part of the site of the old prison of the Grand Chatelet. At the south is the Pont au Change, and on one side is the theatre du Cha- telet, and on the other the theatre Lyrique. The Fountain of Victory in this place consists of a circular basin, in the centre of which is a square pedestal, witli a sphynx on each of its sides, discharging a jet of water. A hove the pedestal rises a column, carved at the foot and at the summit so as to resemble FHANCE. PARIS. 241 the trunk of a palm-treo. Around the lower portion of tliis coluiim is arranjjed a ^frouj) of four tifjures, representin;; Faitli, \'ii;ilance, Law, and Force. On tlie top is a f^ilded tigure of \'ictory, lier feet restintj on a hemisphere, lier extended liands hoUlini;^ tri- umpliul crowns. 'I'lie heij^ht of the entire structure is about 72 ft. The Champ de Mars is situ- ated between the Seine, on the north, and the Ecule Militaire, on tlie south, and comprises an area of 3,084 bv '2,290 ft. It formed tlie site of the. Great Exhibition of 1867, and is now used, as for- merly, for reviews and jiarades. The Ecole ^lilitaire ha.s been con- verted into cavalry barracks. Tlie l'l)ice Loin (lis (IJue Rich- lieu ) is ornamented by a tine foun- tain with statues in bronze repre- sentina^ the four jirincijial rivers in France; the Place Roqule (once inhabited by the ilite of Paris); Place St. Sulpice, Place ilu Trvne, Place du Pont Saint- Michel, Place dtt Prince Eughie, Place des Vic- toires, have no f(>atures worthy of especial mention. Streets. — W ithin the past few- years fjreat improvements have taken place in Paris, and many spacious and handsome streets have been opened. Among; the principal thoroughfan^, new and old, are the Rue de Rivoli, whicli extends from the Place de la Con- corde to the Rue St. Anloine, nearly 3 miles ; the Rue Castiglione and the Rue de la Paii, together extending from the Jioulevard to the garden of the Tuilerie.s; the Rue Saint llonori-, Rue Royale, extending from the Madeleine to the Place de la Concorde ; the Rue Vivienne, the Rue Richelieu, Rue Turbigo, Rue de Buc, Rue de Seine, Rue Lafatjette (one of the finest of the new streets), Rue Scrilie, Riu Auber, and many otliers. BniDGES, The bridges over the Seine are twenty-seven in number, the iirin- cij>al of which are the I'ont Sent, iiiiished in KiOl, above the jilat- fonn of which is the eijuestrian statue of Henri 1\. ; Oes Arts, built in 1H0;5 and reserved for pedestrians; du Carrousel or ites Saints I'C-res, built in IS.'ji, uniting the Quai Alalaquais to that of the Tuileries, at the extremity of which are four colossal stone statues re- jirest-nting, on the right bank, "Abundance" and "Industry," on the k'ft bank, the " Seine " and "The City of Paris;" Roual, built in 1665; de Solferino, built in 1859, opjiosite the I'alace of the Legion d'honneur ; de la Concorde, opposite the Palace du Corps Legislatif and the Place de la Con- corde; Des Invalides, uniting the Quai de la Conference to the Quai d'Orsa}-, between the arches of wiiicli are statues representing a grenadier, a zouave, a ch;isseur, and an artillery -man ; d'Jena, built in 1813, ojiposite the Chamj)S de Mars and tlie F2cole Militaire, on which are colossal statues repre- senting allegorical figures sub- duing iiorses ; de Grenellc, built in 1828; du, Point du Jour, or d'Auieuilj a magnificent work finislied in 1866 for the chemin de Jer de Ceinlure. Hotel des Inv.\lides. The project of gathering to- gether, in one asylum, the soldiers who had been disabled in tlie wars of France, was originated by Louis X l\'., who laid the founda- tions of the Hotel des Inulides in 1670. It was ready for the recep- tion of pensioners in four years 242 PARIS. FRANCE. thereafter, and was placed under the authority of the Minister of War. In 1790 the Hotel was called the Temple of Humanity. This name was changed, under Napoleon, to Temple of jMars. In 1814 it took its original name, which it still retains. Here soldiers who have been disabled in service, or wlio have served thirty years in the army, There are two lateral, and one central entrance. Behind the main building are five courts, around which are the apartments occupied by the inmates. The court to which the central door leads is tlie Cour d'Honneur, in the build- ings around which are the refec- tories, or dining rooms (one for officers, and the other for privates), and two kitchens. THE EUE DE RIVOLI and have obtained a pension, are furnished with a retreat for the remainder of their lives. The number now here is about 1,300. The terrace in front of the Ho- tel, laid out in gardens, contains about forty field pieces, most of them taken in tlie various wars in which France has been en- gaged. Many of them are worthy an examination. The front of the Hotel is 612 ft. long and four stories high. It has three pavilions, the central of which has a bas-relief of Louis XIV. The dormitories are on the first and second stories. The Salle d\ittente, Salle des Minechaux, and Scille dit Cnnseil contain portraits and busts of dis- tinguished military men and go- vernors of tlie Hotel. Strangers may visit the Hotel daily. A small fee is expected by the invalide who acts as guide, and hj those who show the council chamber, din- ing-rooms and kitchen. The old Church of the Invalides, which is separated from the dome, under which is the Tomb of Na- FHANCE. PARIS. 213 poleoii, by ii railiiifr, consists of a sinn;'li' nave, \\ itii two aisles wliicli support till' i;alli'ry. Flaj^s taken in various battles are ranged along both sides of the arched nave. Tomb of Napoi.kon. — The en- trance to the dome under wliicli the tomb is phiced is in the Place Vauban. Seen from this side, the church is a majestic edifice, with a front of lo8 tt., surmounted by the enormous jjilded domi-, rising 323 ft. above the ground. It is divided into two stories, and in the centre of each story is a pro- jection with a pediment resting on columns. The statues of St. Louis and Charlemagne are placed in niches on eachsiileof the entrance, and various allegorical figures are placed upon the upper story. On entering the church, the first ob- ject which strikes the attention is the circular bilustrade of white marble, surrounding the crypt where, directly underneath the dome, is placed the sarcophagus ■which contains the remains of Napoleon. There is an entrance to this crypt by a winding stairway beneath the high altar; but visi- tors are not allowed to enter. The sarcophagus and the crypt are best seen from the balustrade above. At the entrance to the crypt is a bronze door, above which, on a tablet, is the follow- ing extract from Napoleon's will: — " I desire that my ashes may rest on the banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom I have loved so well. ' Two bronze caryatides — one on each side of the door leading to the crypt — hold the globe, sceptre, and imperial crown. On each side, against the walls, are sarco- phagi, one dedicated to Marslial Duroc, the other to .Marshal 15er- trand, the Emperor's friends in his adversity. The crypt, which is circular, is twenty- three yards in diameter, and its floor is six yards below that of the dome. The centre is open at the top, and is surrounded by the marble balustrade before referred to. The diameter of the balustrade is fifteen yards; a large j>ortion of the crypt is beneath the floor of the dome. Around the jiortico thus formed, and facing the tomb, are twelve statues in white marble, by Pradier. 'I'he sarcophagus is of red Finland granite, and is four j'ards long and two yards wide. It is formed of four blocks — the receptacle, the lid, and the two supports. The base is of green granite from the \'osges. 'i'he total height is 13J ft. The immense monolith of porphyrj', of which the tomb is composed, weighs l.').5,()00 pounds, and cost 14(),(K)() frs. The whole cost of the monument was nine million francs. The high altar, ascended by a flight of ten white marble steps, and surmounted by four elegant spiral columns in black marble, tlie interior decorations of the dome, and the tombs in the vari- ous side chapels, will all attract attention, and are wortliy of care- ful examination. HospiTAr.s. — Among the chief institutions of this kind we may enumerate the following : — The Ilutel-Dieu, situated in the Place du Parvisde Notre Dame. This is by far the most ancient hospital in Paris, being reputed to owe its foundation to St. Lundry who was Bishop of Paris in tJ60. It has been enlarged and improved from time to time, and will shortly he closed, as the new Hotel-Dieu on tlie Quai Napoleon isapproach- ing completion. The buildings of tjje latter occupy a space of 5J acres. The present edifice can accommodate upwards of 800 pa- 244 PARIS. FRANCE. tients. It is built on both sides of the southern branch of the Seine, and access from one part to the other is afforded by a tun- nel and covered bridge. The chapel o{ St. Julien le Puuvre, ad- joining the oldest portion of the Hospital, is a very ancient struc- ture, attributed to the sixth cen- tury. It contains some fine paint- ings, as also does the Hotel itself. The Hopital St. Louis, 40, Rue Bichat, is specially devoted to the cure of cutaneous disorders. It was founded by Henry IV. in 1604, and contains 810 beds. The Hopital Necker, 151, Rue de Sevres, has 386 beds. In the chapel are two fine marble statues representing Aaron and Mel- chisedech. The Bourse, or Exchange, THE BOURSE. The Hopital Larihoisiere, in the Rue St. Vincent de Paule, has beds for 634 patients. The chapel is worth seeing. The Hopital de la Pilie, 1, Rue Lacepede, is annexed to theHotel- Dieu. It contains 620 beds. The Hopital de la Charite, 45, Rue Jacob, has 474 beds. It was originally founded in 1602. The Hopital Beovjon, 208, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, contains 416 beds. The Hopital St. Antoine, 184, Rue du Faubourg St. Antoine,has 480 beds. situated in the Place to which it gives its name, is a vast rectan- gular building, measuring 212 ft. by 126, and occupying the site of the Convent des Filles St. Thomas. Around it are 66 Corinthian columns, and, at each angle, a seated figure, representing respec- tively Justice, Commerce, Agricul- ture, and Industry. The interior of the Bourse, on the ground floor, is mainly occupied by the Salle, 116 ft. long by 76 wide, where business is transacted. It is sur- rounded by a handsome gallery, from which the busy scene below FRANCE. PARIS. 245 may be surveyed. Admission to the fjallery is free. The hours for the bar|,Min and sale of stocks, shares, i\;c., are from 1? to 3. The Place tie la liotiise surrounds the buiUliii!,', from which it is separated by a nobh'ran«re of rail- ings. It presents an animated scene during business liours. TuK Hank ok Fhance occupies an enormous edifice between the Rues de hi \'rilliere, Croix des Petits Champs, and Neuve des Bons t^nfans, which was formerly the Hotel de Toulouse. It was purchased by the Government in 181'J for the Bank. It has recently been enlarj^cd and restored. Its capital is one hundred and eighty nuUion francs. It is the only bank of issue in the empire, and has branches in the chief pro- vincial cities of France. The specie vaults of the Bank are entered by a single stairway, which admits one person at a time, and they are so arranged that they can be instantly flooded and rendered inaccessible in case of any sudden emergency. The Mint, or Hotel des ^lon- naies, is on tlie Quai Conti, on the left bank of the Seine, oppo- site the Louvre. The collection of coins and medals is extensive and interesting, the former com- prising those of nearly every country in the world. These col- lections may bo visited without special permission, but to visit the laboratory and work-shops it is nece.ssary to procure pre\'ious permission. See " List of days and hours, &c.," above. Amongst the Fountains not elsewhere described are the fol- lowing: The beautiful Fontaine des Inno- cents, in the Kue St. Denis, was constructed, in l.i.^O, by command of Henry II., who entrusted the architecture to Pierre Lescot, and the decorations to Jean Goujon, who, being a Protestant, was afterwards included in tlie list of victims of the ma.ssacre of St. Bartiiolonii'W. It stands in tlie centre of a rail('(l t-ndosure laid out with shrubs and flower-beds. Its form is (luadrangular, with the figure of a lion at each angle of the pedestal, modelled after tiiose on the Termini fountain at Rome. Gn each face it is pierced by an arcade, the sides of which are ornamented with fluted Corinthian pilasters, with the figure of a iNaiad between them. It is sur- mounted by a cupola, plated with copper, engraved so as to resemble the scales of a fish. The Fontaine Louvois, situated in the centre of the square so called, consists of a large stone basin, containing a stone pedestal, with bas-reliefs of bronze, and which supports a bronze basin, suiTounded with heads whose mouths discliarge jets of water into the one below. On the sum- mit of tlie pedestal is a group in bronze representing the Seine, tiie Loire, the Saone, and the Garonne. The Fontaine St. Michel stands against the wall of the house wliich forms the angle of the Boulevard St. Michel and the Place St. Andre-des-Arts. It re- presents St. Michel vanquisliing Satan, a group in bronze, within a niche. The rock on which it is placed discharges a copious stream of water. On each side are two columns of red marble, surmounted by figures of Truth, Prudence, i'orce and Justice. Two impe- rial eagles, with extended wings, crown the whole. On either side of the b.isin is a griffin discharging a jet of water. The Fontaine Moliere, atthejunc- tion of the Rue Moliere and the Rue Richelieu, consists of a niche 246 PARIS. FRANCE. with two Corinthian columns on each side, with a sculptured pedi- ment. A laronze statue of Moliere, in a sitting- posture, is placed in the niche. In the house No. 34, Rue Richelieu, near the fountain, Moliere died, on the 17th of February 1673. On the front of the house is an inscription to that effect. The Tour St. Jacques, in the square of the same name, which opens on the Rue de Rivoli, is the only existing remnant of the old church, commenced in 1508, and finished in 1522, which was de- molished in 1789. It is a magni- ficent specimen of Gothic archi- tecture, 187 ft. high, and had formerly a spire of 300 ft. One of the angles at the summit is adorned with a colossal statue of St. Jacques, the other three bear- ing figures emblematic of the Evangelists — the lion, the ox, and the eagle. The pointed windows and the tracery about the angles are very fine. Under the arch is a statue of Pascal, and nineteen other statues in niches are arranged around the tower. The Conservatoire de Mu- siQUE ET DE Declamation is situ- ated at 15, Rue du Faubourg Pois- sonniere, and occupies the site of the old Hotel des Menus-Plaisirs. The principal entrance is adorned with statues of Tragedy, Comedy, Opera, and Opera Comique. It was originally established in 1784, for singing and music, and, in 1786, a scliool of declamation was added, of which Talma was a pupil. After undergoing many vicissitudes, the present scheme was arranged, under Napoleon I., with the title given above. There are usually about 600 pupils of both sexes, who receive gratuitous instruction from the best masters. Tliey are admitted after an ex- amination, and are periodically ex- amined during their course of tui- tion. The great prize of 3,000 francs a year for five years, is given to the successful competitor at the annual examination. The Conservatoire possesses a fine col- lection of musical instruments of all kinds, both ancient and mo- dern. The concerts given at the Con- servatoire are the most renowned of any in Paris. The pjerformers, numbering 187, of whom 102 are singers, and the rest musicians, are of the highest order of merit that can be secured. They com- mence on the second Sunday in the year, and are continued fort- nightly until April. There are three supplementary concerts, in Holy week and Easter week. Places are taken by subscription a considerable time in advance, and it is very difficult for a stranger to obtain admission. Among the popular Concerts are those of the Champs Elysees. The orchestra is placed in a gar- den, between the Palais de 1 In- dustrie iind the Cours la Reine. Admission, 1 franc. Perfor- mances every night during the summer, from 8 to 11. The Gobelins. This manu- factory of tapestry and carpets is situated in the Rue Mouffis- tard, and derives its name from one Jean Gobelins, a wool-dyer, who, in 1450, possessed the pro- perty, which subsequently passed into the hands of Louis XIV., and is held by the Government. There are five apartments, con- taining both ancient and modern specimens of each of the branches of industry cultivated Iiere. They comprise copies of wonderful ac- curacy from celebrated paintings, portraits of sovereigns, &c. The work-rooms are six in number. In making the tapiestry, the work- man stands at the back of the FRANCE. PARIS. 217 frame on wliich the cnnvas is stretched; this is to prevent the sur- face bein^ disfis:ure0,()00 francs. The work is not sold, and is chiefly used for the decoration or fiirni- ture of the various palaces, for presents to distinguished persons, 6cc. The Manufactory- of Tobacco, 63, Quai d'Orsay. 'Ilie French Government has tlie monopoly of the manufacture and sale of to- biicco in Fnuice. 'J he manufac- tory, on the Qu;ii d'Orsay, is the largest of all, and in it more than 1,800 persons are constantly em- ployed. More than two millioa kilogrammes of snuff" are pro- duce,000,000 francs. Per- mission to visit the working rooms is readily accorded by the super- intendent. The AiiBATOiRS, or public slaughter-houses, at La Villette, are worth a visit from those who care to see how establishments of the kind may be conducted, with- out most of the offensive details usually associated with them. ■With a plentiful supply of water, and the aid of ingenious machinery, the slaughteruig of animals is car- ried on here on an enormous scale, witlumt rendering the neighbour- hood disagreeable or unhealthy, as would be tlie case in many countries. At the corner of the Avenue du Champs de Mars, near the Pont d'Alma, is a line range of build- ings which were built by Xajio- leuii lll.forthe I MiMiuAT. Staiu.k.s. The central building of the [irinci- pal Courtis the riding-.school, with stables on each side, which can accommodate 300 horses. In another court are coach-liouses, containing, amongst others, the coaches used at the coronation of Napoleon I. and Charles .\. I'he remainder of the buildings are taken up by the Jnlirmary, and the residences or apartments of the equerries, coachmen and grooms. There are also extensive stables under the Palace of the Louvre, in which many of the finest horses of the Imperial stud were kept dur- ing the residence of the Imperial family at the Tuileries. Neither of the stables now contain any- thing worthy a visit. The Hai.i.e au Bi.e, or Corn Market, is an immense rotunda, situated at the end of the Rue Mercier, not far from the Halles Centrales. It occupies the spot where formerly stood a palace of Catherine de .Medicis. Its dia- meter is 126 ft. The centre is re- served for sacks of grain, which are also stored in the granaries above, Tlie sacks of Hour are placed beneath the gallery sur- rounding the building. 'i'he IIai.i.es Centrales, or market-houses, contain markets of butchejs' meat, fish, poultry, game, vegetables, eggs, butter, bread, &c. They consist of ten covered sheds, built chiefly of iron and glass, each of wliich isliO ft. long by 100. wide. From tiie cellars three tramways are carried to a tunnel beneath tlie Boulevard de 8ebastopol, which has access to the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. The best hour for visiting the Ilalles is from eight to nine in the morning, when the scene is very animated and curious. 248 PARIS. FRANCE. Cemeteeies. — Up to the year 1790, interments took place in the burial-grounds within the pre- cincts of the city, but at that date the Constituent Assembly passed a law prohibiting intra- mural sepulture, and enacting that three cemeteries should be laid out and enclosed beyond the bar- riers : one, on the north side of Paris, being assigned to the 1st, within the city twelve minor ceme- teries, of which eight only are in use. The chief place of interment for the wealthier classes is the cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise, situ- ated beyond the Bastille, at the end of the Rues de la Roquette and St. Andre. It extends over about 124 acres, and takes in the hill called Mont Louis. It is laid out with great taste, and the views TOMB OF ABELARD AND HELOISE. 2nd, 3rd and 4th arrondissements ; another, on the east, to the 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th ; and a third, on the south, to the 9th, 10th, 11th and 12th arrondissements. Napoleon, in 1804, directed the formation of four more cemeteries ; two on the north, styled respec- tively the cemeteriesof MoHtmartre, and P ire-La-Chaise ; and the others, on the south, of St. Catherine and Vaagiranl. The two latter were subsequently closed, and their place supplied by the cemetery of Mont-Parnasse. The extension of the boundaries has included of Paris and the adjacent country to be obtained from it are at once extensive and highly picturesque. More than 50,000 mausoleums, tombs and memorial stones are contained within its limits. Noj far from the entrance, to the rioht, is the tomb of Abelard and He- loVse, which was erected in 1165, at Paraclet, and conveyed to Paris in 1800, and to this cemetery in 1817. Amongst other objects of interest are the tombs of Massena, Casimir-Perier, Moliere, Rachel, Talma, Delille, General Foy, Arago, and Rossini. IRAN'CF. PARIS. 249 The Cemetery of Montmartre, between (licliy and Rochechouiirt, comprisi's about 74 acres. In it we hnil tlie tombs of .Marsbal de Segur, of St. L.ambert the poet, of the sculptor Pigalle, of Godfrey Cavaignac, and many others. The Ometery of Xlnnt-Pamasse, near Montrouge, occupies a space of about 60 acres. Here we see the monument erected by public subscription, at the instance of the Geographical Society of Franco, to the great navigator. Admiral Dumont-d'Urville, and the tombs of Lagrange, the great mathema- tician ; Henrion de Pansey, first President of the Cour de Cassa- tion ; NicoUe, Principal of the College of Sf. Barhe, and others. At No. 35, in the Huede Picpus, near the Boulevard .Mazas, m a private cemetery in the rear of an Augustin convent, is the ^ave of Lafayette. The Miirgue, or Dead-house, is situated beliiiid the Cathedral of Notre Dame, and near the new bridge of St. Louis. It is open night and day, in order to enable the friends of tlie deceased to identify them. The number of bodiesfouiid dead and brought to the Morgue, averages 3(30 a-year. Libraries. The National Library, 58, Rue Richelieu, established in 1360, contains upwards of 1,800,000 vo- lumes of printed books, 100,000 manuscripts, -tOOjtXJO medals, 1,040,000 engravings, and 300,000 maps and plans. Many of the volumes are in duplicate, and about 750,000 are accessible to the public. Readers are admitted every day from 10 to 4 to the reading rooms. The library is open to the public between the same hours on Tuesday and Friday. A School of Living Oriental Languages is attached to this li- brary. The Bibliothtqxie de Ste. Gene- vieve, or -pt by private printing establi.shments. A early 1,000 persons are con- stantly employed. The Catacombs. — In 1784 the Council of State decreed that the bones contained in the Cemetery of the Innocents, and others about to be abandoned, should be re- moved to the quarries whicli had for a long period existed under- neath the southern districts of Paris. The ceremony of conse- cration was performed in April, 1786, and the work of removal forthwith commenced. The chief entrance is near the Barriere de I'F.nfer, down a flight of ninety steps. In one of the galleries a(f- joining the vestibule is a repre- sentation of Port Mahon, cut in the rock by a soldier wiio had been imprisoned in that fortress for some years. The vestibule is octagonalj and has its walls inlaid with human bones and skulls, arranged in various devices. Be- yond is a series of galleries leading to chambers or chapels, some of the latter containing altars, and vases in niches, formed of bones ; and tlie walls of both galleries and chapels are inlaid like those of the vestibule. The catacombs 250 PARIS. FRANCE. contain a fountain called the Fon- taine dela Saimiritaine, on account of the words spoken by Christ to the Samaritan woman being en- graved upon it. There are other inscriptions, from the Scriptures and Fatliers, in various parts. Near the entrance are some curious rocking-stones, delicately poised, which have probably stood undis- turbed for centuries. There is also a collection of geolog'cal specimens, and another of bones and skulls, displaying signs of various diseases. TheSs:wers. — Theentirelength of the sewers of Paris is about 300 miles. In order to organize the system of sewerage, the whole area of the city was divided into five basins, three of which are on the right, and two on the left bank of the Seine. Of those on the right bank, the first comprises Charenton, Belleville, and Mont- martre ; the second, St. Antoine, the Temple, St. Martin, St. Denis, the Tuileries, and Palais Royal ; the third, Chaillot, the Roule, Monceaux, and the Faubourg St. Honore. One of those on the left bank takes in the district of Deux ]\Ioulins and the Bievre ; and the other, the Luxembourg, St. Ger- main des Pres, and the Gros Caillou. There are six main galleries, three on the right, and three on the left bank, and fifteen smaller galleries directly supplying them, while tlie latter are themselves fed by numerous otliers. Of the gal- leries on the right bank, the first extends along the quays to a dis- tance of 4,330 yards ; the second, (2,004 yards) goes along the Boulevard de Sebastopol, and unites with the first in tlie Place du Chatelet ; the third reaches from tlie Place de la Bastille to the Place de la Concorde. Of the main galleries on the left bank, the first goes along the quays from the Pont d'Austerlitz to the Pont d'lena ; the second extends from the Place de I'Ob- servatoire to the Pont St. Michel ; the third extends from the valley of the Bievre to the Rue St. Jacques. All these sewers fall into the collector of Asnieres, beneath the Place de la Concorde ; those on the left bank passing into it through a siphon under the Seine. They then flow together to a point below Asnieres, where they dis- charge into the Seine. Theatres. — Those styled Im- perial received a subsidy from the late Government, and comprised the following: — The Grand Opera. The build- ing now in use is situated in the Rue Lepeletier. As a structure, it is not worth notice, and it will soon be pulled down. It was in front of this building that Orsini and his confederates made the attempt on the lives of the late Emperor and Empress on the 14th of January, 1858. The new Opera House, which is nearly completed, is in the Place de rOpera, on the Boulevard des Capucines. A representation of it is here given. Its area is about 462 ft. by 380 ft., and it is intended to accommodate 2,500 spectators. It is the finest opera house yet constructed. The exterior is not only imposing in its general ap- pearance, but exceedingly ela- borate and costly in its details. 1'he interior is fitted up with every regard to convenience, and on a sumptuous scale, the decorations being profuse, and, at the same time, in excellent taste. This theatre receives a subsidy from the civil list, of 100,000 francs, in addition to 620,000 francs from the Government. The Theatre Franfais, or Come- die Frangaise, is in the Rue Richelieu, partly attached to the FRANCE. PARIS. 351 Palais Royal. Its exterior has nothinj^f worthy of special notice. The interior is iiandsoni'-ly de- corated, and aftords room for 1,300 persons. The performances at this theatre have s;enerallv been considered as the sumdard tor tlie whole country, and are limited to the hin;her styles of Tragedy and Comedy. The llalian Opera is in the Place Ventadour, near the Rue Neuve St. Augustin. Performances take place on Tuesdays, Ihursdays, and Saturdays, and occasionally on Sundays and .Mondays, from April to October. It has places for 2,000 j)ersons. The Theatre de I'Opera Comiqiie, where operas of the higher class are usually performed, is in the Place BoVeldieu, near the Boule- vard des Italiens. It has places for 1,800 spectators. The Thiiitre de COdeon* is in the Place de rOdion, near the Lux- embourg, in the Quartier Latin. It accommodates 1,700 persons. The Tliediie Lyriqiie,* in the Place du Ciiatelet, has a facade decorated witli statuary and sculp- tures ; and has seats for 1,730 persons. Amongst the ordinary theatres, which receive no aid from the State, are : — The Gijmiiafe, on the. Boulevard Bonne-ISouvelle, with places for 1,300. The Vaudeville, at the corner of the Rue de la t'iiausste d'Antin and tlio Bouli'vard des Capucines, with 1,300 places. Thedtre des ]'aiittes, 7, Boule- vard Montmartre, with 1,'240 places. Theatre du Palais Roijal, at the Palais Royal, with accommodation for 1,000 persons. Theatre de la Ptyrte St. Martin,* * Partially or wholly burned by the insurgeuts in May, 1871. 16 and 18, Boulevard St. Martin, having 1,800 places. Thi'itre de la daiie, in the Place des Arts et .Metiers. Ainhif^u-Comi'iiie, 2, Boulevard St. Martin, l,(illO places. Theatre Imperial du ChdteUt, in the Place du Chiitelet. The last-named is one of the largest theatres in Paris, and has seats for 3,500 spectators. Circuses. The C!r(pie NapoUon is in the Boulevard des Filies de Calvaire. Here equestrian and other per- formances, usually seen in such establishments, are held. In sum- mer, the company is transferred to the Cirque de I'lmperatrice, in the Champs Elysees. The Hippodrome, situated .at the Rond-Point of the Avenue de St. Cloud, near the Bois de Boulogne, is an oj)en-air circus, with co- vered rows of seats extending round it. Besides ordinary dis- plays of horsemanship, there are chariot and steeple-chases, bal- loon-ascents, &:c. The PiuLic Balls of Paris may be divided into two classes — the summer and winter balls. Of the former, the most frequented is the Mabilte in tlie Avenue .Mon- taigne, where a ball takes place nightly in the warm season, in a beautiful garden, splendidly illu- minated, in the centre of which are the dancing area and the pavilion of the orchestra. The Ctoferie des Lilas, Carrefourde I'Observatoire, in the Latin quarter, is much fre- quented by students. Both are favourite resorts of the demi-monde. The Casino in the Rue Cadet, and the Salle Valentino in the Rue St. Honore, are large halls in which balls and concerts take place during the winter, both being fre- 252 PARIS. FRANCE. quented by the same classes as the gardens above described. During tlie Carnival, Bals Masquees take place weekly at the Grand Opera-bouse. They are generally crowded to excess with the lowest of the Parisian population in grotesque costumes, as dancers, and by great numbers of the curious from all parts of the globe, as spectators. As an ex- hibition of a curious tbough i^ot altogether pleasant phase of Pa- risian life, it would be well worth the while of the tourist to see one of these hals. Few will care for many repetitions of the visit. Houses now Remaining which have been inhabited by emi- NENT Persons. Voltaire died at No. 1, Eue de Beaune, close by the Quai Vol- taire. His apartment was upon the first floor. Moliere died at No. 34, Rue Richelieu. Corneille died at No. 18, Rue d'Argenteuil. Napoleon I., when an officer of artillery, resided at No. 5, Quai Conti, on the fifth floor. He afterwards resided at No. 19, Rue de la Michodiere. Jean Goujon resided in the house No. 22, Rue Monsieur le Prince. Madame de Sevigne resided in tl)e Hotel de Carnavalet, No. 23, Rue de Sevign6, where her apart- ments are shown. Her celebrated letters were chiefly written here. Marat resided at No. 20, Rue de I'Ecole de INIedicine, where he was stabbed, while in a batb, by Charlotte Corday. Madame Recamier once resided in the apartments on the first floor, to the left of the entrance to the Court of the Abhaye aux Bois, 16, Rue de Sevres. St. CLOt/D Is situated on the declivity of a hill near the Seine, and about 5^ miles from the Louvre. It owes its origin and name to St. Clodoald, a grand- son of Clovis, who founded a mo- nastery liere in 351. St. Cloud is chiefly celebrated for its Cha- TEAiT, built by Mazarin, and em- bellished by successive Dukes of Orleans, who possessed it until 1782, when it passed into the hands of Marie Antoinette. It was the usual summer residence of the Imperial Family. The chateau was burned on October 13, 1870, by the French, who fired upon it from Mont Valerien. It consisted of a centre and two wings. It was richly furnished, and had nume- rous statues, vases, pictures, and articles of vertu, nearly all of which were destroyed. The cha- teau has been the scene of some important events in history. In it Napoleon I. laid the foundation of his power, on the memorable 19th Brumaire, by expelling with his soldiers the Council of Five Hundred from the orangerie (now removed), in which they held their sittings; and here Charles X. signed the ordinances of July, 1830, which led to tlie second re- volution. In 1814 St. Cloud was attacked by the vanguard of the allies under Langeron, and was occupied by the army from April 7 to June 3. In the following year Bliicher made it his head- quarters, and here, on the 3rd July, was concluded the conven- tion by which Paris fell, a second time, into the hands of the allies. The park attached to the chateau is remarkable for its picturesque beauty and its fine cascades and fountains. The latter usually play every second Sunday during the summer. FRANCE. PARIS. 253 Versailles. (Hotels : des Reservoirs, de France, Petit Vatel : each of tlie Hotels has an excellent Res- taurant.) Persons residing^ upon the rig^ht bank of the Seine will find it more convenient to set out from the St. If. 50 r. ; second. 1/. 25 c. In- convenience is avoided by the purchase of return-tickets. The Galleries are open every day except ^Mondays, from 11 to 4. The reserved apartments are open durin}^ the same hours. The a])artments of the Grana Triunon are o|)en every day ex- cept ^londay, from 12 to 5. To BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS. Lazare station of the Western Railway, those residing on the left bank will find it more con- venient to leave from the Mont- Parnasse station. 'J"he A'ersailles station of the latter line is nearer the Palace than that of the other. Trains leave both stations for Versailles fifteen times a da}-. The distance by the right bank railway- is 14 miles, by tiie left bank 12 miles; Fares: Jird clan, visit those of the Little Trianon, it is necessary to procure a ticket from the proper officer at the Tuileries. (To prevent disappointment it would be well to consult " (Jalig- nani's Messenger" before starting, .as ciianges are sometimes made in the days and hours for visiting the Trianons. ) It is advisable to give at least two days to Versailles — one to the Gallenes and Apartments, the 254 PARIS. FRANCE. other to the Park and the Tri- anons. By starting early from Paris, and going in a cab from the rail- way station at Versailles to the Park and the Trianons, one miglit see in one day, without too much fatigue, in a hasty manner, all that is to be seen at Versailles. Persons who find it necessary to do this should drive about the Park before the Galleries t.re open, and should, after seeing the Palace, take a cab to the Tri- anons. Authorized guides, who speak English, are always to be found in front of tlie Palace. Excellent catalogues of the paintings and statuary are sold at the entrance. Versaillks, now a handsome and well built town, containing about 30,000 inhabitants, was, be- fore the time of Louis XIV., a small village, to the neighbour- hood of which Louis XllL fre- (juently went for the purpose of hunting in the forests which sur- rounded it. He built here a liunting-lodge, around which ul- timately grew up the village. The town is crossed by several fine avenues bordered with trees, and has numerous handsome squares. The Church of Notre Dame is tlie work of Mansard, who was also the architect of the Palace. In 1661 Louis XIV. de- termined to Tuake his peimanent residence at Versailles. The building of the Palace oc- cupied eleven years, and it was finally completed in 1672, but the court was not removed there until 1680. The interior was decorated by Lebrun, and the gardens and parks are the chefs-d^a:uvres of Le Nutre. The site was a most un- favourable one for the creation of ])leasure grounds, and vast sums of money were necessarily ex- pended before the original design was completed. " The genius of man was forced to struggle against nature. Kivers were turned from their courses that their waters might be conducted to the foun- tains, and an army was employed upon the work. All the Arts vied with each other in their zeal to carry out the design of a palace which should be the most splendid of all royal residences." The amount expended was little short of 40 millions sterling. Here, for many years, Louis XIV. held his brilliant court, attracted by the magnificence of which, people flocked to Versailles from all parts of France. The population of the town was estimated, at one time, at 100,000. Louis XV. resided here for some time after 1725, and the un- fortunate Louis XVI. made it his constant abode until he was taken to Paris, at the beginning of the Revolution in 1792. Under the Convention the Palace became a branch of the Invalides, and the question ofdestroying it altogether was considered, when, in 1799, it was saved by the advent of Na- poleon I. to power. The latter contemplated its restoration, but the campaign in Russia prevented the execution of his design. The work was left to Louis Philippe, who conceived and carried out the scheme of converting it into a great national gallery for works of art illustrative of the military glory of France. In front of the Palace is the Grand Coar, formerly La Cour des Ministres. In the centre of the Court is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV., and, on the sides, colossal statues of Duguesclin, Bayard, Duquesne,Dugay-Trouin, Tourville, Suffren, Suger, Sully, Richelieu, Colbert, Jourdan, Mas- sena, Montebello, and Mortier. VERSAILLES I EffiiAff. I^otre Danie. - •3 ftF/ac* S' lout,}- 5 Plat'- rf Jtatuf rfV ffo^he ^ .Vitrrhf J^otrf Dam^ 5 S^ LouCr . ^ii'fatue lie tJtU dfe /£p^ J <> r/uatra . 7 Prefi-cfurr 8 M.ttrtf 9 PiUat4 de JiurOrf \% Jen -de Paume iS PavtOan Itayal 1^ //otr/ «/ /fe^-taur ' du It^trvatr , ■5 Sopital ma&tmttt I O* Cammun) 17 /'ii/AT ii,-^ l.ouduji FRANCE. PARIS. 255 Beyond the Place d'Armes, and on each side of the Avenue de Paris, are a range of hiiildinfjs, formerly the Royal stables, and now usfd as barracks. In the rear of the Palace are the parks and irardens, ciianninij views of which may bf had from many points in and about the buildin-j. The ^nind afjartmetits occupy the whole of the tirst floor of tliat portion wliich projects towards tiie j)ark, tliose of the Kin^ beins^ upon the nortli, and those of the Queen upon the south side. Kn- tering these apartments from the gallery in front of the chajjel, we first come to the Salon d' 11 errule, which serves as a sort of entrance to the grand apartments. The ceiling' is decorated with a ]»icture of the Apotheosis of Hercules. The next is the SaUm de I'Ahon- dance, so called from a painting on the ceiling. Tlien follows the Salle des Etats Generaux, deriving its name from a picture of the opening of the States General at X'ersaiilesontheath of May, 1789. Returning to the Salon de I'Abon- dance we enter, in succession, tiie Salons of Vemis, Duma, Mars, Mercury and Apollo; from whicii latter we enter the Salon de la Guerre, which looks into the mag- nificent Gdlerie des Glares, one of the finest halls in tiie world, '2:39 ft. long, .'?■) ft. wide, and 43 ft. high. J t is lighted by seventeen windows, from which maj- be had the finest v-iews of the park. The ceiling is painted by Lehrun, with allegori- cal representations of the principal events in the life of Louis \1\'. The niches contain marble statues of Minerva, Venus, Adonis and Mercury. In the rear of the Galerie des Glaces, and entered from it, is a suite of three rooms, the first of which is the Sulledn Conseil, where Louis XIV. usually met his minis- ters. It was to this room that M. df,' Brcze came to announce to Louis XVI. the refusal of the deputies to disperse, and the me- morable words of .Mirabeau, " We are iiere bv the will of the people, and we wdl only disperse at the point of the bayonet.' From this room a door leads to the bed- ciiamber of Louis .\1\'., in which " Le Grand .MoMari|ue" died. It is sjdendidly decorated, .and the furniture has been restored to the condition in which it was at the death of the King. 'i"he bed is that on which he died. Next to the last named is the Salle de I'CEU de Bivuf, so called from the oval window at the end. This was the Kind's ante-chamber, wliere his courtiers used to await him, and in which he and Marie Antoinette dined in public on Sundays. Xext, in the rear of the latter, is the Salle des Gardes. Returning to the Galerie des Glaces through the King's ante- chamber and the CE\\ de Boeuf, we enter, at the south end, the Salon de lit Pair, which was the card- room, in which Madame de Montespan is said to have lost in one night '100,000 pistoles (value 16s. each). A door leads from this room to the Queen's bed-chamber, which wa.s occupied by the three queens, Marie 1 he- rese, INIarie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, and in which the Duchess d'Angouleme was born. At six o'clock on the morning of the 6th of October, 1789, \he Queen, being asleep in this cham- ber, was roused by the cries of the guard that her life was in danger. 1-Iscaj)ing from the room by the passage which leads to the CEil de Boeuf, she hastened to join the King, whom she found in the Salle du Conseil. Tiiey at once appeared, with their chddren, on the balcony of the King's bed- 256 PARIS. FRANCE. chamber, from whicb the King addressed the infuriated mob which crowded the court below. We next visit, in succession, the Salon de la Reine, the Ante- chambre, the Salle des Gardes, and the Salle du Sucre; the latter de- riving its name from the painting, by David, of the Coronation of Napoleon. A door at the south- west corner of the CEil de Boeuf leads to the Petites Apparte.^ients de Marie Antoinette, consisting of her library, boudoir, and other rooms, now nearly denuded of furniture. The paintings and sculptures all bear inscriptions sufficiently denoting their respective subjects, and it is therefore unnecessary to do more than give a general ac- count of them. Those visitors who seek further information can purchase a catalogue in the palace. Tliey consist of representations of the most remarkable events in t])e history of France, more especially the victories achieved by military valour, including tliose gained by Napoleon III. The portraits are those of the admirals, constables, and marshals, and numerous otlier distinguished officers, of various periods, who have contributed to the glory of France. The sculp- tures include the statues and copies of the tombs, of the French kings, &c. The Orangery was constructed by Mansard ni 1685, and is 150 yards long, by 13 yards wide. Before it, in fine weather, are ranged more than 1200 orange trees. The oldest of these is known as the Grand Bourbon, The circumference of the Park is nearly fifty miles. It is divided into the large and the small Park, the latter being that immediately in the rear of the Palace, which includes the beautiful gardens. We remark in the gardens the statues and fountains, some of the latter of great size, containing groups of exquisite workmanship. The fountains, alleys and parterres are indicated in the accompan3ring plan, and further mention of them here is unnecessary. In the north-western part of the Park, and at no great distance apart, are the two small Palaces or villas, called the Great and Little Trianons. The first-named was built by Louis XIV. for Ma- dame de Maintenon. It is in the Italian style, and consists of a single story with two wings united by a gallery, the front being ornamented w'ith Ionic columns. It is handsomely decorated with paintings and statuary. Among other rooms shown to visitors are the small apartments which were tormerly inhabited by Madame de Maintenon and by Louis XV., and which were used as council rooms by Napoleon I. The gar- dens are laid out in a style similar to those of Versailles, with foun- tains, &c. The Little Trianon is a simple square pavilion of small size, and is far from imposing in its appearance. It veas built by Louis XV. for Madame du Barry. The king himself once inhabited it. The apartments are decorated in a style of great simplicity, and contain a few paintings. The gardens are laid out in the English style, with a river and a lake, on the banks of which is the Swiss Village, composed of a number of rustic houses, a mill, dairy, &c., built by Marie An- toinette, and to which she used often to resort. The gateway on tlie right of the visitor, as lie en- ters the court of the Little Trianon, opens upon a path which leads directly to the Swiss village. About midway between tlie Tri- anon and tlie village, on an island FRANCE. P. Hi IS. 2.i7 ill the little lake, is a pretty temple called the Temple de i'Amour. On tiie Alice di's Tiiiititns, be- tween the two 'i'riaiions, is the coach-house, wliidi no tourist should omit to visit. It contains several magnificent state carriages, tl>e finest beint,' tliat constructed for the coronation of Charles X., used also at the baptism of the Prince Imperial. Hero is also tlie coach usptl by Napoleon I. when First Consul, tlie weddinq^-coacli, and otlieTS. The (iratides Kuui, or the i)lay- ing of the fountains, jjresonls the most interesting sight of the kind in the world. AH the fountains are not made to jilay at one timi', but the water is turned upon each in succession, and spectators may easily follow from one to the other. Usually this exhibition takes place on the first Sunday of each month, from -May 1 to Octo- ber, but announcements are always pul>lished in advance in tlie news- papers of Paris. During the siege of Paris by the German army in 1870-1, the head-quarters of the King of Prussia were at \'ersailles. In the magnificent Gallerie des Cilaces, already described, on the 18tb day of January, 1871, King William, surrounded by the re- presentatives of the various Ger- man Sovereigns and the cliief otlicers of his Government and the army, fomially assumed the title of" German I'.mperor." After the return of peace the National Assembly of trance re- moved from Bordeaux to \'er- sailles, and the latter city became the seat of the French Govern- ment, the Assembly holding its sittings in the theatre of the jialace. FONTAINEDLEAU. (lloteU: de Fiance el d'Aiigle- terre, I'iite de Ltion.) Population, 11,939. Reached by Lyons Railway, distance 36 J miles. Fint class, CrtiO frinici ; second, 4"9.5 francs ; third, 3'6r> francs. The Palace is open every dav from 12 to 4. The town is beautifully situated in the midst of the forest of the same name. This forest covers an e.\tent of sixty-four square mili-s, and the scenery, in many parts of it, is exceedingly fine. Fontainebleau is chiefly famous fur its Palace, which is said to have been originally founded bv Robert the Pious, in tlie tenth century. Louis VII. re-huilt it in the twelfth century, and it was enlarged by Louis 'l\. and his successors. Francis 1. repaired and lavishly embellished it, and in 1.539 received in it (,'harles \'. with great splendour. If has been added to by many sovereigns, and bears the style of almost every century since its first foundation. It contains about 900 apartments, most of which are fitted up in a suinj)tuous manner. In the sm-enteenth century it was inhabited by Christina of Sweden, after her abdication. In the reign of Louis XI\'. Madame de Montespan occujjied it, and in the reign of Louis X\'. it was oc- cupied by ^ladamedu Barry. Pope Pius \'1L was detained here by Xapoleon for nearly two years. Among the many jmblic acts and treaties which have emanated from tliis Palace are the Revocation of the Edict of X^antes, signed here, October 22. I(i8.i. the public an nouncement of the divorce of K 258 PARIS. FRANCE. Josephine, and the abdication of Napoleon. The entrance to the Palace is by the Cour da Cheval Bluiic, or L'our des Adieiix, in tlie naddle of which JNapoleon took leave of tlie remnant of the Old Guard, pre- vious to his departure for Elba. Ihe apartments iirst entered are called Appuitements des Reines Meres, from the fnct that they were formerly occupied by Catheiine de i\Ied;oi and Anne of Austria. These were the apartments occu- pied by Pope Pius \ll. during his compulsory visit. Among the other interesting- apartments are the Guleiie da F>-an^ois I.; tlie Appartements de Nupolenn I., comprising the cabinet de travail, containing the table upon which lie signed his abdica- tion, and the bed-room, nearly in the state in whicli he left it ; the SdUe da Trone ; the Galerie de Diane ; and the Salle du Bui, one of the finest in the palace. In the Chupelle de la Sainie Trinitt Louis XV. and Maria Leczinska were married. There are three gardens called the J ard in da voi, the parterie, and ihejardui Anglais. The forest is remarkable for its picturesque and wild character, the quantity of rocks to be seen, and the beauty of tlie views which are to be had from various parts. The points usually visited are the Gorges d'Apprenwnt and de Franchai d, and La Vallee de la Salle. Carriages may always be liad at the Railway Station, for excur- sions in the forest, and the coach- men may safely be trusted to select the best routes. It would be well to arrange the charge for the carriage and driver before starting. ViNCENNf.S JMay be most conveniently reached by cab from Paris, through the park. Trains from the Bastille station stop there, and omnibuses leave many times a day from the square of the Conservati^ire des Arts et Metiers. It is 5 miles south- east of the Louvre, and 1^ miles from the Place du Trone. It is chiefly famous for its case-mated barracks, its arsenal, and school of musketry, and for its beautiful and extensive park. At the Eccle Normale de Tir, the Chasseurs de Vincennes, and all the best marks- men of the army are trained. 'J'he chief object of interest in the town is the Chateau, which dates from the middle of the fourteenth cen- tury. It was surrounded by nine towers, which were in existence down to the year 1818, but of which only one, known as the Tour Principate, 115 feet high, re- mains. Tlie Donjon, within the fortress, 170 feet high and with walls 17 feet thick, is also in good preservation. These buildings cover the site of a more ancient structure, which was erected by Louis VII. , in 1137, as a hunting- lodge. Philippe-Auguste enlarged it, and stocked its woods with game sent to him by the King of Eng- land. Philip de Valois caused the old mansion to be demolished, and laid the foundations of the more modern chateau. From the middle of the fourteenth century till the time of Louis XV.it was a royal residence. After this time it was used as a prison, and among the famous men who have lan- guished within its walls may be mentioned Henry IV., the Prince of Conde, Cardinal de Retz, Mir- abeau, and the Due d'Enghien, FRAXCF. PARIS. 259 who was sliot in the moat of tho castle by order of Napoli'on I. Tilt' imuoury is only shown on Saturiliiys, from I'i to 4, on pro- duction of tickets obtainahle by writing; to M. le Minislie ile la Guerre. Near the cliateau is the Model Fiirm, admirably kept, and W(>11 wortli a visit from those who take an interest in sucii matters. AdjoiniiiLf the chateau is a fine park, containinjj upwanls of 1,800 acres, called the l5ois-de- \ in- cennes. It affords a spacious ex- panse of fine scenery, and is em- bellished witli artificial sheets of water, rivulets, and ag^-eeable walks. A larije tract in tlie centre of the park has been cleared to serve as an exercise-ground for troops. St. Germaix-en-Laye. (Hotel: Pavilion Henri IV.), (with an excellent restaurant). Distance from Paris by Western Railway (St. Lazare Station) 13^ miles. First cluiS, I'.jOfrancs; second, 1"25 franci ; trains 20 times a day. Population, 14,.500. Is si- tuated on the bank of the Seine. Jt is chiefly interesting for its cha- teau and forest. It luis several handsome squares and a magni- ficent terrace along the river iij)- wards of two miles long, aftbrding delightful and extensive views. The town is well built and the streets are wide, regular, and well paved. I he ancient Chuteaii, built hy Charles V. of France, is a spacious pentagonal edifice with a tower at each angle, and, until \ fr- sailles was built, was a favourite residence of the kings of France. It is now undergoing extensive re- pairs, and in it is oix-iied a museum of Gallo-lloman remains. The Forest is one of tin; largest in France, having a circuit of 21 miles, and covering 10,000 acres. It is intersected hy roads, offering agreeable rides and walks in all directions. In the chateau James II. of England, after a residence of V2 years, died in 1701. Henry IV. built a palace upon the ter- race, of which nothing n-mains but a sin-ill pavilion, now used as a restaurant. In this pavilion Luuis .\l\'. was born. feEVRES is about 6 miles from Paris, and may be reached by either of the lines to Versailles, or by omnibus. It is on the left bank of' the Seine, contiguous to the park of St. Cluud. Its population numbers about 6,800. Ihe celebrated inamifac- tures of porcelain carried on here have made the name of this village famous throughout the world. They were originally established at X'incennes in 1738, under the control of the company ot* " far- mers-general," who removed tliem to Sevres in 1755-56. Louis W. purchased them in 1759, and tliey have been the property of the crown ever since. I'he show rooms contain speci- mens of the choicest workman- ship in every variety, comprising vases and ornamental groups, table services, and exquisitely painted copies of some of the finest works of the old masters, liie Museum occupies 1'2 rooms and a gallery on tlie second floor. Here are preserved samples of pottery and porcelain of all descriptions, be- longing to every country, from the remotest ages down to the pre- sent time, and displayed at every stage of their progress from the raw material to its completion as '260 PARIS. FRANCE. a work of art or utility. Tlie work rooms are not sliown, except to those who are furnished with a special perniission from the Ad- ministrate ur, whicli is rarely grant- ed. The show rooms are open every day, except Sundays and hojidaj's, from li to 4. The atten- dant expects a small fee. The Museum is open on Monday, with- out the production of a ticket; on other days a ticket must be pro- cured from M. I'Administroteur de la Manufacture de Sivres. Malmaisox Is about 10 miles from Paris, and is most conveniently reached by the Western Railway (St. Lazare Station), alighting at the Riieil Station (8f miles from Paris). Malmaison is distant about two miles from the station. Carriages are always to be found there. It was the favourite residence of Napoleon I. and the Empress Josephine. The latter died here on the 29th of JMay, 1814. It was purchased by the Empress while she was the Countess Beauhar- nais. After her marriage she frequently resided here during the absence of Naijoleon. It afterwards passed into tlie hands of Prince Eugene, and subse- quently came into the possession of Marie Christine, Queen Dow- ager of Spain, from whom it was purchasecl a few years since by JNJapoleon 111. Various articles of furniture, and other relics of the Empress Josephine, have been collected from the several places inhabited by her, and may be seen in the apartments at JMalmaison. Josephine and Queen Hortense are both buried in the church at Rueil. The monument to the latter was erected by her sou. Napoleon III., by whom also the church has been restored. St. Denis. This town, about 4 miles from the Northern Railway Station, may be reached from it many times 11-da.y. Population, 9,000. It is well built, and has handsome barracks, an asylum for the house- less poor, a theatre, a public library, &c., but is chiefly noted for its Abbey Chuuch, a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, rebuilt by St. Louis in 1231. It was originally founded in the seventh century, by Dagobert, in connection witli the celebrated Benedictine Abbey of St. Denis, and formed the ordinary jilace of sepulture of the Royal Family of France, and of otiier illustrious personages. By decree of the Convention in 1793, the Royal tombs were destroyed, and the valuable relics and other treasures of the abbey, including the crown and sword of Charlemagne, the sword of Joan of Arc, the great cross, &c., carried away. The building, stripped of its lead to furnish bullets for the revolu- tionists, remained roofless, and was used as a cattle-market until tlie time of the empire, when Na- poleon commenced its restoration — a work whicli was completed by succeeding sovereigns in a style surpassing even its former splendour. The crypt of the abbey church contains statues of tlie French kings and princes from Clovis to Louis XV'I. In the chapels are now arranged the monuments which were for- merly in the vaults, except those of Louis XVl. and JMarie Antoi- nette, the Due de Berri and his children, the Prince de Conde I'ARL'S. 2f>l and the Due di' I'oiirhon, Louis VII. a»d Louis Will. To tlio ri^lit of the entrance to the choir, un(hr ii Ciothic canopy, is the toinh of Dii^obert and his Queen, recently restored, with interestinj;' sculptures and bas- reliefs. The monument to the first Napoleon will stand oppo- site this. The hearts of Louis XIll. and \l\. are preserved in the church in silver caskets. \'aults are now being constructed for the remains of the ]'",mperors of the French. Tlie church suffered considerably durin;^ the boiubard- meut of the town by the Germans in January, 1871. Route 53. BREST TO PARIS. 387 miles ; 1st class, 69'80francs ; 2iut, 52- 35 fiwics; 3id, 38-40 J'raiics, REST {Hotels: des ]oii(t'ieurs, Liimarque'), jioi)ulation U2,0UU, is situated on the west coast of lirittauy. It is a prin- cipal station of the French navy, and possesses one of the best har- bours in the world. The town stands partly on a hill, and the streets are steep and irregular, but in the suburb of Kicouvrance the bouses are well built, and the streets spacious. The principal public buildings and objects of curiosity are the. barracks, the immense naval arsenal and dock- yard, the iron swing-bridge, a prison, called Le Bugiie, and ca- pable of accommodating 4,000 convicts, house of correction, hospital, theatre, two marine academies, the cloth manufacto- ries, tlie foundries, and the fine walk called Le C'liiirs, planted with trees, and overlooking the bay. The first station after leaving Brest is Luiitlenieau (11;^ miles;, {Hotels: de iTiiivers, des I'ln/- ageurs) ; population, 6,9.'J4. It con- tains some curious old houses and gateways, one of which latter is the solitary remnant of the once famous Castle. ^Iori-aix (37 miles) {Hotels: de Froieiice, de I'Europe), ])opuhition 14,008, is situated on a tidal river or creek, and has a convenient liarbour. The manutacture of tobacco em- ploys many hundreds of both sexes. The town is quaint and picturesque, bearing witness, in Its streets and houses, to its great antiquity. Near the Fontaine des Anglais (so called on account of the slaughter near it of part of the invading force sent by Henry \'I11. in 1522) is the agreeable promenade along tlie bank of the river, called Cours Beaumont. Be- yond Morlaix we traverse a long viaduct across the valley of iJou- ron, and, passing several unim- portant stations, reach Guiiigamp {65 miles), pleasantly situated near the river Trieux. Jt con- tains a handsome church, and a beautiful fountain in the market- place. Near Sr. Biuevc {92 miles) is the ancient Tour de Cesson, erected in 1395 to guard tlie entrance of the Gouet, and partially destroyed after the war of tlie League, in 1598. At Lam- balle (105 miles) we see, abovu the town, the tine Gothic church of Notre Dame. The interior contains some richly-carved wood- work. Broons (121^ miles) was the birthplace of the celebrated Bertrand Duguesclin, Constable of France. A monument in his honour stands on the site of the 262 Route 53.— BREST TO PARIS. FRANCli. Castle of La Motte Broons (in which he was born), about Ij miles from the town. Rennes (154f miles). (Hoteh: de France, Julien) ; population, 51,000, the ancient capital of Brittany. Here is the junction of the lines from Brest, Redon, Nantes, and St. Male. The town is situated near the confluence of the rivers Ille and Yilaine. It contains some fine buildings ; amongst th'='m are the Cathedral, the Palais de Justice, the Lyceum (in which is a good collection of pictures), the Hotel de Ville, the Jardin des Plantes, and the public walks, which are extensive, and well planted with trees. One of the old gates, called la Porte Morde- laise, still exists. It bears a Roman inscription, not now legible. Vitre (178f miles) affords a favourable specimen of a medieeval town. The fortifica- tions are, for the most part, in good preservation. The Castle is nowaprison. Laval (201 miles), on the Mayenne, presents much the same cliaracteristics as Vitre. Its Cathedral is very handsome. The industry of the town consists principally in the manufactui-e of linen and cotton goods, and tliread. Laval was conspicuous in the Vendean insurrection of 1792. The next place of interest is Le Maxs (256f miles). (Hotels: de la Boule d'Or, de France) ; popu- lation, 46,500. (About twenty minutes allowed here for refresh- ment.) Henry II. of England, the first of the Plantagenets, was born here. The Cathedral is a noble building, and its internal decorations are magnificent. The southern transept contains a mo- nument to Berengaria, wife of Richard Coeur de Lion. Tliere are some Roman remains in various parts of the town, and a large stone, supposed to be Druidic, is imbedded in one of the walls of the cathedral. Passing througli a beautiful expanse of country watered by the Huisne, we reach La Ferte-Bernard (282^ miles), a town of about 2,615 inhabitants, witli a beautiful church, and a fine Huti'l-(ie-Ville. The next stoppage is at Nogent-le-Rotrou (295j miles). (Hotels: du Dau- phin, de la Gare) ; population, 7,105. The town occupies an attractive situation on the Huisne. It contains three hand- some churches; the church of Notre Dame is distinguished by its fine facade, of the thirteenth century ; the church of St. Lau- rent contains a picture of the mar- tyrdom of that saint ; in the church of St. Hilaire are some beautiful carvings, pictures, and stained- glass windows. The Chateau St. Jean, formerly the residence of Sully, stands on the side of a steep hill, and is approached by a flight of 150 steps. It is in tole- rably good preservation, and lias a picture-gallery, in which are paintings by Van Dyck, Ruys- dael, and other celebrated artists. Chartres (333 miles), (^Hotels: de France, da Due de Chartres) ; population, 19,531 ; is an ancient town, built on the slope of a hill ovei'looking the river Eure. The Cathedral, one of the largest and most imposing ecclesiastical struc- tures in Europe, with its lofty spires — one of them rising to a height of more than 400 ft, — stands on the summit of the hill. It con- tains 130 stained-glass windows of great beauty both of colouring and design. The church of St. Pierre, and the obelisk to tlie memory of General Marceau, are also de- serving of notice. Chartres has a large weekly corn-market, which is under the control of a corpora- FHANCE. Route ^3.— BREST TO PARIS. '26S tion of womnn. 'I'lioro i.s, more- over, a tribunal of comnitTcc, a botanic jfiiniin, and a jmlilic li- brary of"oO,0(X) volumes. Leaviiifif Clmrtres, we cross the Faubourg St. Jean over a viaiiuct ot" eifjlUeen arches, and afterwards the X'oise, and the valley through -which it runs, on a viaduct of tliirty-tivo arches, and j)resently reach .NIain- TKNON (344i} miles), situati-d at tlie confluence of the Kiire and the \'oise. We see the Caslle, with its demesne, i^iveii hy i.ouis X 1 \ . to liis favourite, Madame de .Main- tenon, widow of the celebrated Scarron. Here are also the ruins of an aciueduct, and some Roman and Druidical remains. Near Epernon (349f miles) are the ruins of a castle, and of the ancient Priori/ of St. Thomas. i{.\.MBOi'ii.i,Ki (3.')7;J^ miles) is situated near a forest of the same name. 'Ihe ChiUean was, for a lonj;; time, the residence of the French kino;s, until tlie abdication of Charles \. in 1830. Shortly before reaching Vers.aili.ks (376^ miles) we see, on the left, the military college of St. Ci/r. Pass- ing Versailles, with its ])alaces and beautiful grounds, we arrive, iu about twenty-five minutes, at Paris (iMout Parnasse Terminus). Route 54. CIIERIJOUIU; TO P.VRIS. 229 miles; Ut class, iV.iH francs ; '2nd, 3Vl5fn„ics; 3rd, I'Jiis francs. tllKRBOURG. (Hotels: de ri'nivers,* de Prance, des Bains de Mer), |)()])ulation, 43,000, is a fortilii'd si'Mjiort town and arsenal, situated at the head of a deep bay on the northern extremity of the peninsula of the Cotentin, on the English channel, and opposite the Isle of Wight. C'li 'rbourg has long been one of the principal stations of the French navy, and its im]>rovement has, for many years, occupied the at- tention of tlie French governmt'nt. Jt has numerous docks and basins, and a spacious iiarbour. It is )iro- tected against hostile attempts by its powerful fortifications, and against the encroachments of the sea by a di^ue, or breakwater, 4,120 yards in length. It has also a commercial ])ort situated on the south-east, but it displays little activity. The town itself is in- significant, and there are no public buildings worthy of mention. Tliere are some manufactures of liosiery, chemicals, lace and leather, as well as sugar and salt refineries. In 1758, Cherbourg was taken by the English, who destroyed the naval and military works, and levied a contribution on the town. 'J"he place has no anti(]i"ities of interest. Uavii'x (63 miles') (Hotel: dn I.utembonrg),an episcopal see, with a po])ulation of ai)out 9, .500, is the first place of any note after we leave Cherbourg. The Cathe- dral, with it6 ancieut crypt, is well 264 Rouie 5i.— CHERBOURG TO PARIS. FRANCE. worth inspection ; but the prin- cipal object of interest is the cele- brated Bayeux Tapestry, said to liave been worked by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror. It consists of fifty-eiglit compart- ments, representing- incidents con- nected with the A'orman invasion and conquest of England. It is preserved in a room in the Public Library, which, amongst other curiosities, contains the seal of Lothaire and that of William the Conqueror. From Bayeux we proceed to Caen- (82 miles). (Hotels : d'Angleterre, Humby's). Popula- tion 44,000, comprising a con- siderable number of English resi- dents. ( A delay of twenty minutes for refreshment. ) Tlie Church nf St. Etienne, erected by William the Conqueror, and in which his remains were buried, is a fine spe- cimen of Norman architecture. A grey marble slab, in front of the high altar, marks his grave, but it was ransacked successively by the Huguenots and tlie revolu- tionary mobs of 1793, and the bones disinterred and scattered. There are several other cluirches, and some noteworthy public build- ings ; amongst otliers, tlie Hotel- de-Ville, which contains a good picture gallery; the Antiquurian Museum, that of the Sncivte Fran- caise d'Archeclogie, the Cabinet ffHistoire Katurelle, &c. The quarries supplied the celebrated stone of which old London Bridge, the AA'hite lower, Henry Vll.'s Chapel, the cathedrals of Win- chester and Canterbur3',and many other cliurches throughout Eng- land aj-e constructed. Lisieux (112 miles) has a plainly-built cathedral of the thirteenth century, 'ihe Gardens and Boulevards are well laid out. At Berxay (131 miles) (Hotels : du Cheval Blanc), a small manufiicturing town, the train stops about twenty minutes. Tlie ancient abbey, founded a.d. 1000 by Judith, the wife of Kichard II., Duke of Normandy, and partially rebuilt in the seven- teenth century, now serves as the town-hall. The public gardens are among the most beautiful in P'rance. Passing Seiquiguy (ISSj miles), near which are the remains of a Eoman camp called Fort St. Marh, and Beaumont-le-Roger, a few miles further on, containing a fine church, and the ruins of an abbey, we reach Conches (151 miles), pleasantly situated on the summit of a hill, near an extensive forest. Here are the ruins of the ancient Donjon or Keep, and those of a Benedictine Priory. We next stop at Evreux (162 miles). {Hotels: du Cirand Carf, du Dau- phin), where there is a noble cathedra I, -with the Episcopal Palace adjoining it, and, at some distance, tlie church of St. Taurin, sur- mounted by a handsome belfry, and containing very rich internal decorations. The Museum pos- sesses a choice collection of medals, statues, ancient pottery, &c. ; and there are numerous rare and valu- able manuscripts preserved among the municipal archives. After passing Evreux we go through a long tunnel, and reach Bueil (179 miles), and Mantes (194 miles). Prom hence to Paris tliirty-five miles, see Route 52. BRU Church e s . I ^11 /It^ifiu/ififfr /S^'frnn lfap'.'l a ,1'!' IVithriiiir » S''0,i.l,ile 4 S' Jtir^iitv .mr ('atnieninTii ft S.'.l^^i-h 7 JVotr* flamrdr htm .'ii\>u/ in miuruni D I 7 ^*v armurt%r A I A (ihjivtuitvire IV 19 rriroitiii^f Prfitr ilr Vmu-I dtVaU /Oraiuinaeei 56 S'drry 57 S^ .Iran 59 fie Ut Monnuir *0 «o<>k . JELS " « Miilbv & Sons. London. FRANCE. Route 55.— l'AIU.''i TO BRUSSELS. 265 Route 55. PARIS TO BRUSSELS. 197 mill's; Ut class, 3-i-OO f runes ; '2nd, '■25' 50 francs. (For the journey from I'aris to .Maiibi'uge (142J miles), see Route 56). KOIM INIaubeuge we proceed to /■'ei^nies, the Frencli frontier, and tlience at once to QuKvv, two miles further, where is the Belgian Custom House. There is a delay here of about 20 minutes. The next stop is at MoNs (136 miles ). 'J his is the cliiff city of the Province of Ilai- iiault, and was formerly a fortress of tlic first class, which has sus- tained many siej,'es, but is now dismantled,'although its fortifica- tions were rebuilt and consider- ably extended in 1815. The church of St. Waudru was built in 1460, upon the site of one much more ancient; but the tower and spire, whicli were designed to exceed in height thatof Antwerp, were never completed. It con- tains some interesting pictures, amongst which are the " Eleva- tion of the Cross," and the "Cru- cifixion," attributed to David Teniers the elder; the "Exalta- tion of St. Francis de Paul," by Theodore van Thulden; and the " Flight into Egypt," by Poussin; besides several altars and bas- reliefs worthy of inspection. 'i"he Hotel-de-Vitle and tlie lielj'ru are the only other noticeablebuildings. Moiis has no manufactures, but there are a great number of col- lieries around it. We presently reach Buaixe le Comte (167 miles), which is said to derive its name from Bri'nniis,the remjwned leader of the (lauls, in tlieir vic- torious invasion of Komt.-. Pni's- SELs (197 mihs). Hotels: Bi:li,k VuK,* de I'liindre, de I' Europe, Britannujue,' de Suede, de Saie . It is often called " Paris inihinia- ture,'' and on account of its greater cheapness, and pleasant situation, is prefcrn-d by many to the larger city. Pop. 195,000. It grew up around a small chapel built by St. Gery, one of tlie first ajiostles of Christianity in these regions, and increased raj)idly when Charles of France, Duke of Lower Lorraine, about the year 980, made it his n-sidence, and brouglit here the body of S'*. Gudule, grand-daughter of Pepin of Landi'u, who was made, with St. Michel, a patron saint of tiie city, and to whom the Cathedral IS dedicated. Under the j)rinces of tlie House of Burgundy, who made it their chief residence until it passed, in marriage with their heiress, to the crown of Spain, it received its greatest adornments. Its subsequent history is identified with that of the wliole country'. A fine panoramic view of the town and neighbourhood may be obtained from the Colonne du Con- grts, in the Rue Royale, erected to commemorate the declaration of Belgian Independence, and the election of Leopold I. as king. Of the public buildings, not only the most venerable, but the most imposing in appearance, is the C.MiiEDiiAi,. The present build- ing was commenced by Henry I., Duke of Brabiint, about 1226, but was not finished until the 15th century, which accounts for the incongruity of some of its archi- tectural details. The most ancient portion is the choir. So numerous are the memorials of its bene- factors, amongst whose names will 266 Route 55.— PARIS TO BRUSSELS. FRANCE. be found some of the most illus- trious of their time, that we cannot here give a list of them ; suffice it to say, that they remind us of events connected with the history of the country from most remote times to those of the last revolu- tion. There is a fine monument representing- the death of Count Frederic de jNIerode, under tiie patriot flag- of 1830. The pulpit with its accessories, sculptured in wood by Verbrug-gen, in 1699, representing- the " Expulsion from Paradise," is one of the finest of the kind in JJelgium. 'I here are many other sculptures and paint- ings in glass, executed by the first artists. Next in historic interest to the cathedral are the churches of Notre Dame de la Victoire in the SabUvi, built in memory of the battle of Woeringen, in 1288, and of Notre Dame de la Chape lie, erected in 1210, and enlarged in the 15th century. The Grand Place is second in interest to none in Europe, as regards the tragic and romantic historical episodes, of wliich it has been the scene ; and no other has probably remained through so long a period so entirely unchanged in its prominent features. The noble Hotel de Ville, the Maisoii du Roi opposite to it, in front of which a monument has recently been erected to the memory of the patriot nobles, Egmont and Home, who were executed on the spot in 1568, and the other surround- ing edifices are in such a state of preservation as to require no exercise of the imagination to restore to them the appearance which they presented, when most of the events which l)ave given them celebrity occurred. The Ai/(^'s Palace, and the Du- cal Palace near it, used as a Riu- si.uai of paintings and sculjjtures. &c., have externally nothing to recommend them to notice. Tlie jNIusKUM contains many valuable paintings, among wliich are seven ascribed to Rubens. There are Botanic and Zoological Gardenn well worth visiting. Near thei latter is the IMuseum of paintings by the late eccentric Wiertz,: belonging to the nation, and called tlie W'lKRTz Museum, 'i'lie Park is a fine promenade, with superb forest trees of large growth. There are several theatres and other places of amusement. In the Place Roiiale there is a fine equestrian statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, the hero of Tasso's " Ge- rusalemma Liberata," and in the Place des Martifrs a monument to the patriots who fell in the Revo- lution. At the Porte de Namur is a handsome fountain erected to the memory of the late C. de lirouckere, Bourgmester. In the Porte de Hal, which has been restored for the purpose of re- ceiving them, is a Museum of Anti(juities. It contains a good collection of stone and bronze implements, unbaked pottery, &c., from the tombs of the earliest inhabitants; a good collection of armour and mediteval weapons; and, amongst other objects from America, the feather-cloak of jMontezuma, which he wore when seized hy Cortes. This building- is the only portion remaining of the fortifications of Brussels, all the rest having been swept away to form the boulevards which sur- round the town. The collections wliich it contains are not so well known as thej^ deserve to be. ]5y the canal, fed by the Senne, which reaches the Scheldt at Willebroeck, vessels of small ton- nage can reach Brussels. At the corner of the Rues de I'Etuve and de la Chene, at the back of the Hotel de Ville, is a fountain, FRANCE. Route :}5.— PARIS TO liRlSSELS. 267 tlie princij)iil fi^'ure in wliich is a little boy, in uii attitudr more natural than decent, which all visitors to IJrusscls are fxpected to «ee. it is called the .Alanne- kin, lias several suits of" clothes, and a valet to attend to it, who varies its costume to suit the occasion. J'or examj)le, durinjjf the popular fetes, it is dressed as a national /ifi/)'s I'lilace, funniTly tlie .Vbbcy of 8t. \'aast, the Mas'uin, Gallery of Puintin;;^, Library, 6lC. Arras h;us lost the iiiijiortant manufacture of ta])estry, for which it was once so famous, but lace and china are made here, and a considerable trade is carrii-don in corn, beet-root sugar, and other commodities. It was conspicuous ill till' Revolution. Robespierre was born here, and also Damiens, who attempted the murder of Louis .\ \'. Fort}' miles distant to the north of Arras is Lille (Hotels: de I'P.arope, de France}. Population 155,000. This is an important manufacturing town and fortress, situated on the iJeule, in a level, fertile district. The streets are wide; tiiere are several fine scpiares, and the houses, mostly in the modern style, are well built. Tlie jirincipal buildings are the Meitical School, the Lyceum, the Bourse, and the Palace of Richebour^, no-^- tlie Hotel de I ilte, in which is the school of art, with a collection of drawings by Eapiiael, .Alichael Angelo, l^eo- iiardo da \'inci, and other masters. 1 he churclies are those of Saint- Andre, Sainle-Catherine, Sainte- Madeleine, Saint- Sauveur, and Saint-Maurice. The public library contains 35,000 volumes. Lille is the head-quarters of the third military division of France. The manufactures are numerous and extensive ; the oldest and most important is that of linen-thread for lace, tulle and gauze. It is also tlie s^at of extensive engine works, tbundries, 6cc. It has twice suffered severe sieges. On tlie first occasion, during the war of the Spanish succession, the garrison cajiitulated to the allies, after a bombardment of 1'20 days; on tlie last, the Austriaus, after a 268 Route 5!i.— PARIS TO BRUSSELS. FRANCE. terrific bombardment, were obliged to raise tlie siege. Leaving Arras, we reach Douai C 135 miles). {Hotels: de Versail- les, de I' Europe, de Flandres), po])ulation, 24,105. This place was ibrmerly celebrated for the number of its seminaries for Eng-- lish, Scotch, and Irish theological students, of which one only is ex- tant. 1 1 is now chiefly important for its cannon foundries, and for its trade in flax and coals. 1 he Englisli Semiiuiry is converted into barracks. The Hotel de Ville, in the market-place, has a tine belfry. The Public Library, Museum, and Cathedral are deserving of notice. After leaving Douai, the next place of interest is, Valenciennes (Hotels: du Com- merce, des Princes), population, 2,5,000. This town is situated at the confluence of the Rhonelle witli the Sclieldt, which divides it into two parts, it is well built, and there are some agreeable pro- menades in the neighbourhood. Its principal buildings are tlie Hotel de Ville, with a handsome facade, surmounted by an attic, adorned with Caryatides, repre- senting the four seasons, the Church of St. Gery, the Theatre, the Academy of Paintings, Sculp- ture, and Architecture, and a Public Library of 18,000 volumes. Its chief industry is coal-mining, and tlie manufacture of sugar from beet-root. It has also manufac- tures of lace of great fineness, cambric, linen, hosiery, &c. This town belonged to the Netherlands until 1677, when it was taken by the French, and afterwards secured to them by treaty. In 1793, it was one of the first places attacked by the Allies, after the defeat of Dumourier. The siege, conducted under the Duke of York, was long and obstinate, and part of the town was laid in ashes before it capitulated. It was retaken by the French in 1794, and has ever since remained in tlieir possession. Watteau, the painter, and Froissart, the his- torian, were born here. From Valenciennes, we proceed to Quievi-ain (164 miles) the fron- tier town of Belgium, and thence to MoNs (191 miles), already described.] KouTE 56. PARIS TO COLOGNE. 304: miles; 1st class, 57'15 francs ; 2nd, 4:2-55 francs. Express trains make the journey in Hi hours. (That part of the Route from Paris to Creil (31 miles) is de- scribed in Route 50.) N the right, after pass- ing Creil, a view is obtained of the Forest of Chantilly, beyond the beautiful plain of Villotte, At Pont-St.-Maxence (38| miles) we see the chateau of the celebrated geologist, the Comte de Verneuil ; to the northward, about one mile and a half distant, is the Chateau de Villette, once the residence of the beautiful Madame de Villette, to whom Voltaire be- queathed his heart. Compiegne (53 miles) (Hotels: La Cloche, de France), population 12,510, occu- pies an agreeable situation on the left bank of the Oise, 1^- miles below its confluence with the Aisne. The Palace — which is a masjnificent building — was origi- nally a royal liunting seat, and is so FRAN'CE. Route ')6.— PARIS TO COLOGNE. 269 still. The existing structure was erected (luriii;;; the reigns of I.ouis XJV., Iiis two immediate succes- sors, and NajKilcun 1. Its a])avt- ments are of tlie most sumptuous descrijjtion. 'I'iie Park is exten- sive, anil adjoining tin- gardens is the beautiful Forest of Compiegne, extending over 30,000 acres. The Abbei) Church of St. Corneilte, the churches of St. Antohie, and St. Juct]ues, and the Iliitel-de-Ville are all handsome hiiildmgs. It was at the siege of this town in 1430 that the .Maid of Urleans was taken prisoner; and here, in 180'.), Napoleon and ^larie Louise, of Austria, first met. At Xoiioii (68 miles) ( Ilolel : da Nord), population 6,3.iO, is a beautiful cathedral, commenced in the twelfth century-, and a hand- some Uutel de Vilie, completed in 1523. This town was the birth- place of John Calvin. Ticugmi.r (B^i miles). There is a delay of about a (juarter of an hour for re- freshments. We next stop at .St. Qiuntin (96;] mihs). (Ilotel da eigne). TopulatioM, ;5'2,960. The manufacture of cotton is carried on extensively here. 'J he Hottl de Vilify completed in l.i09, is worth seeing. '1 he principal Church, built in the thirteenth century, is one of the most beautiful struc- tures of its kind in France. It dates from nil'. The C.inal af- fords communication between the Sonime and the Sclieldt, being carried through the hills bj' tun- nels, one of which is upwards of three miles long. At BisiGSY (113 miles) a branch line goes to Sonuiin, on the Chemin de I'er du JSord, between Douai and \'alen- ciennes. Le dlteaa (118] miles) is noted as the place where the treaty of 1595 was signed between Philip 11. and Henry 11. of Eng- land. It was the head-quarters of the Duke of Wellington, on the march from Brussels to Paris, in 1815. There is a statue hep- to -Marshal Mortier, a native of the place, who was kiih^d in I'aris by the '' infirnal machine" designed by F'ieschi. 1 hi- district abounds in coal mines. Ldiidreciei (li.'6| miles) is a fortified town on the Sambre, as is also Maubki'gk (142:] miles). {Hotels: Giund Cerf, du Xord). Population 10,877. The fortifications were constructed under the directions of \'auban. It was formerly the capital of llainault, and the scene of many contests between the French and the Spaniards, until it was even- tually Ci'ded to France by the treaty of Ximcguen, in 1678. The steeple of the church was (h-stroyed by cannon-balls. St. Aldegonde founded a nunnery here. Her veil and slipper are preserved in the church. Her stone pillorii is to be seen in one of the streets. Jeu- MONT (148.J miles) is close to the frontier of Belgium. The first station beyond the frontier is Er- QiEi.iMs. (Trains going from I'aris to Cologne are detained at Erc|uelin('s for twenty minutes by tiie customs authorities. Bag- o-aire registered from Paris to Cologne, or any place in Ger- many, is not examined. Hand baggage, if left open upon the seats of the carriage so that the inspector who searches the car- riages may see that it contains no goods liable to duty, need not be carried to the customs' room. ) Jeumont and Erquelines are without interest. The next station is Cii.Ani.KRoi (177 miles) a town of 8,000 inhabitants, situated on the Saiubre. It has extensive iron works. It is well fortified and garrisoned. Between Erquelines and Ch.ir- leroithe railway crosses the JMeuse no less than fiit-MMi times. Xami-r (iiOOmiles.) {Hotel: de Belle Vue). 270 Route o6.— PARIS TO COLOGNE. IRANCE. (Population, 25,000) is the chief town ofthe province named from it, and is beautifully situated in a val- ley at the confluence of the Sam- bre and the Meuse, surrounded by veell wooded hills, upon one of which stands the citadel which commands the town. It appears to have been a Roman station ; a stronghold of its Counts, who make some figure in mediaeval hisiiry ; and it subsequently became notable for its sieges by Louis XIV. of France in 1692, by \V illiam III. of England in 1695 ; and later by the struggles for its possession be- tween the French and Austrians. Of its fortifications only the cita- del and the forts above the town remain ; all the walls and ram- parts of the town having been demolished within the last decade, and their sites occupied by boule- vards and handsome houses. All the churches are modern. The Cathedral dedicated to St. Aubin, consecrated in 1772, has two statues by Delvaux, bi-ought from the Abbey of Florinne ; and the mausoleum of Don Jolin of Austria, the victor of Lepanto, who died in his camp near Nnmur in 1578. St. Loup was erected by the Jesuits and consecrated 1645. It has twelve columns of red marble, and the confessionals are worthy of notice. Theother public buildings are not worthy of special notice, except perhaps the theatre, which is very handsome and com- modious ; and the provincial mu- seum, which is established by the Archaeological Society of Numur, in an old building which overlooks the Sambre. It is intended only for the reception of such antitpii- ties as may be found in the pro- vince, and althoi gh commenced but a very few years ago, the col- lection of Gallo- Homan,and Frank- isli remains, is already one of the most interesting in Belgium. The principal manufacture is cutlery, for which it is famous. Passing Huy (209 miles), a place of no interest to the tourist, we reach Liege (27^ miles). {Hotels: de Suede, d'Angleterre). Popula- tion 110,000. The Birmingham of Belgium ; situated at the junction of the Ourthe with the Meuse. It has long been one of the most celebrated manufactories of fire-arms in the world. The Government has acannon foundry here ; and the establishment of John Cockerill and Co., a limited society, is celebrated for the machi- nery which it produces in rivalry with the best English houses. It has zinc rolling-mills, large nail- eries, breweries, cotton factories, and other considerable branches of trade. All its old fortifications have disappeared, and it is now de- fended only by the citadel on the north and a large outwork on the west. After being governed by its Prince-Bishops for many ages, until the coming of the French in the last century, Liege is now an integral part of the kingdom of Belgium. The old palace is now converted into the Paluis de Justice, and is an interesting building. The Cathedral is a fine building, with a painted roof, and a very elaborately carved pulpit in wood, with five marble statues. The chui-ch of St. Jacques is the finest in Liege, and dates from the early jiart of the sixteenth century, with the exception of the tower and an ancient doorway which are of the eleventh century. The free employment of gilt and colour in tlie decoration of the ceiling is very striking. The paint- ed glass in the choir is very good. The church of St. Denis was founded by tlie celebrated Bishop Notger in 990; burnt sliortly af- terwards, it was rebuilt by him, but FHANCE. Route 56.— P.^/f/.S TO CoLOGXr. '27 i very little of tlii> old buililiiii^ is now traci'uble. ilie choir is vt-rv tine, and the principal altar i.s flanked by two statues by Delcoin, rej)n'St'ntin<^ the \'irijiu and St. Denis ; tlien; is also a j)icture of the martyrdom of the latter. In one of the side chap«'ls is an altar very elaborately sculptured in wood, on which scenes from the 1'a.ssion of the Saviour, and tlie martyrdom of St. Denis are re- presented. The University, founded by William 1. in 1817, occupies a buil(lin<^ which was orii^inally a Jesuit college. Jn the museum are preserved those remarkable fossils found at Engis, C'hokier, and in other caves, which go far to j)rove tlie ('nuality in antiquity of man with the flfj)!iant and rhi- noceros in these localities. A Botanic Ciarden is attached to the University. Sir John Mandeville, the early English traveller, who died here in 137'2, is said to be buried in the convent of St. Julian. In the IMace du Theatre tliere is a co- lossal statue to Ciretrv, the com- poser; and in the Place do I'Uni- versite, one to Andre Dumont the geologist, both natives of the place. No city in Belgium hns more agreeable promenades within and about it, which is due to its pecu- liar situation ; and few cities have a more eventful or exciting history. A visit to the quarries at Maes- tricht can be conveniently made hence ; and a vo3age up the Aleuse to Xamur is worth mak- ing for the river scenery. Heri- stal, a short distance from the city, was the birthjihice of Pepin le Gros, grandfather of ( harle- magne, and founder of the dynasty, but there is nothing of interest in the place itself. Leaving Liege we cross the Meuse by the fine bridge of the I'd!- lieiwit, from the centre of which is an excellent view of the city and surrounding country. Passing the large Zinc Works of the \'ieille .Montague ('om|)any, we cross the Ourfhe, and enter the pretty valley of the little lliver Vesdre, which rises in Prussian territory, and here joins tiie Ourthe. Beyond the village of \'aux, which we leave on our left, we enter the first of tlie nu- merous tunnels which lie in the route, and soon tind ourselves in the delightful \alley of Chaud- fontaine. This j>lace takes its name from its thermal waters, for which it has bei'ii long known, and which are recommended in hypo- cliondriacal and scorbutic aftec- tions, liver coin])laint, ^c. It is very much trei|uented by the p(?ople of Lifege, especially on Sundays. On emerging from the next tunnel beyond Chaudefontaine on the left is seen La Rochttte, for- merly a feudal stronghold, but now a villa. After pa.ssing Le Trooz, on the right of the line, half concealed l)y poj)lars, we catch a glimpse of tlie Castle of Fraipont, whose lords held it of their saz<'rain, by the singular tenure of holding a pike (tish) in their hand, whilst doing homage. Pepinstkh (2393 miles) was in 1810 a misi'rable hamlet of a few cottages, but owing to its neigh- bourhood to Verviers, the opening of the railway, and the develop- ment of the cloth manufacture throughout tlie district, it is likely soon to become a considerable town. [A branch railway to .'^pa turns oft' at Pepinster Junction. It fol- lows the valley of the Hoegne, which is not inferior in beauty to that of the Vesdre. Soon after 272 Route 56.— PARIS TO COLOGNE. FDAXCE. passing the village of Theux we come in sight of the Chateau of Franchimont, one of the legends of whicli, that of the demon huntsman, Sir Walter Scoft has repeated. The attempt of (JOO Francliimontais to seize Charles tlie Bold and Louis XI., befoi-e the walls of Liege, forms one of the most striking episodes in the history of that city. Eight miles from Pepinster is Spa (Hotels: de Flandre, d'Or- ange, des Fays Bus, de V Europe), now one of the most fashionable watering places on the continent. It was formerly a simple liamlet, where a master blacksmith of Breda settled in 1326, after curing him- self of some disease by the use of the mineral waters. Having purchased of the Bishop of Liege that portion of the wood, in tlie middle of which the spring of Pouiion was found, he cleared the ground and built a few houses which became the nucleus of a small town and parish, which re- mained a part of the marquisate of Franchimont, and of the jirin- cipality of Liege until 1795. The reputation of its waters lias been so well establislied for centuries, that their efficacy has been tested by numerous crowned personages, among whom may be mentioned Peter the Great, and Paul I., Emperors of Ruvssia, and Joseph II., Emperor of Germany. A handsome new bathing establish- ment was erected in 186.5, and the Belgium Government has made a considerable annual grant for im- provements. There are several springs, of which the chemical elements are said to differ much, each one therefore is souglit out for its curative powers in special maladies. The sources of amuse- ment provided here, for persons in health as well as the sick, vary in cpiality quite as much as the waters. Roulette and Rouge-et- noir, balls, concerts, theatricals, promenades, fine scenery, and horse-racing, are among them. It is tl)e only place in Belgium wliere public gambling is per- mitted, and the rooms are said to return profits of £40,000 a year. The celebrated Spa water, whicli is taken to all parts of the world, comes from the spring- called tlie Pouhon, in the centre of the town, under the peristyle of a monument erected by tlie late King of Holland, when Prince of Orange, to the memory of Peter the Great. The principal edifices are the Redoute which contains the gambling rooms, &c., and the Vaiuliail, built as a sujjple- ment to it, but not so much fre- quented. Spa, like Tunbridge, has a special manufacture of wooden ware, consisting of toys and the like, which employs a considerable number of persons. About nine miles from Spa, is the cascade of Coo, where the river Salm is precipitated over a precipice of from .50 to 60 ft. in heiglit, into the Ambleve. About 7^ miles distant is the Grotto of Remouchamps, at the bottom of a ravine through which the Am- bleve flows, of the extent of above 500 yards, which the graceful or grotesque forms of its stalag- mites and stalactites render almost as interestino- as the more exten- sive grotto of Hans. There is another grotto below the one described, considered, by many persons, the finer of the two, but its examination necessitates a de- scent by ropes.] N'EnviERS (241 miles); (Hotels: du Chemin de J'er, de Flandre). ( Baggage notregistei-ed through is examined here, and all passen- gers are required to aliglit. Delay, usually 20 minutes). FRANCE. Route 56.— PARIS TO COLUGXE. A place rcniarkiihle t'orits r.ipiil risp, QUO to the cloth in.mutacture wliicli has sjJFunj; ii]) hero. All the clothiiif( for the lJelrs is, after tliat of Liejje, one of the most admirable in lielp^ium. Soon after leaving Verviers we find ourselves on Prussian terri- tory, at llerbestal. Passing that and a few other unimportant sta- tions we reach Ai.x-L.A-CiiAPF.i.i,E(259^miles"), Hotels: Grand Mnitaiqiie,* A iif /- lens* d' Kiiipereur,Beltevue). Popu- lation 70.000. Now the chief town of one of the districts of a Prussian pro- vince, this was once the capital of all the (rans-alpine dominions of Charlemagne, who died there in 814, and may be considered its second founder. It had previously been a Roman station. The em- perors of Germany, Charlemagne's successors, were crowned here for ages afterwards, but the imperial insignia were removed to \ lenna, on the retirementof the Austrians in 179-1. The principal manufactures of the place are cloth and needles, which employ some thousands of the inhabitants. It is chiefly as a watering place, and in connection with its relics and associations with the past, that Aix is visited by the tourist. The C.\TnF,DKAi,,tht>nave of which was the '' Chapelle," giving name to the town, first claims attention. It was built by Charlemagne in the form of the Church of tlie Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, for his own burial- place. It was partially destroyed by the Normans in 8'Jl, and repaired by the Kmperor Otlio 111. in 98;>; but much of the old edifice still remains. Upon the canonization of Charlemagne, his tomb was opened ( 116,^^, and the body of the Emperor wius found, not buried, but seated upon ;i throne, crowned, and in full im- jierial state. In the Tieitsiiri/ are the famous relics, which are divi- ded into two classes, the greater and lesser relics. The former are shown once in seven years. The last exhibition was from tiie 10th to the y4th of .Inly, 1867. The exhibition of 18()() was witnessed by nearly 500,000 persons. The Grandes lielitjiies consist of the robe worn by the \'irgin at the Nativity, the swaddling clothes in which Jesus was wrajiped, the cloth on which the head of .John the Baptist was laid, and the scarf worn by our Saviour at the Crucifixion, stained with blood. These relics were presented to Charlemagne by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and llaroun-al- Raschid. Among the Petites Reliqiies are the skull of Charlemagne, and his leg bone both taken from his tomb. Tlie other boms of the Emperor were discovered in 1847, in a chest hidden in a closet. Besides these are Charlemagne's hunting horn, and two relics which were found about his neck in the tomb, and which he wore when alive, viz., a lock of the X'irgin's hair, and a piece of the true cross. In addition to these are a leathern girdle of Christ, with an impres- sion of Constant ine's seal upon it, one of the nails which bound the Saviour to the Cross, the s|)onge which was filled with vinegar, some of the blood and bones of St. Stephen, some pieces of Aaron's 271 Route 56.— PARIS TO COLOGNE. FRANCE. rod, &c. Upon these relics the emperors of Germany swore at their coronation. The lesser relics and the church plate, which is very rich, are shown for a fee of one thaler to the treasurer. I'he throne, Sar- copliagus and pulpit are shown by the verger for a fee of one half thaler for a party, or ten groschen for a single person. The Hotel de Ville is a i-^rge and ancient building, dating from 1353 ; the tower on the west from 1215 ; and is remarkable for the Congresses which have been held in it, at which tlie political inter- ests of tlie principal EurojDean powers have been adjusted. It contains, amongst other pictures, the oldest known portrait of Char- lemagne, and frescoes of events in his life. Before the Hotel de Ville is a fountain erected in 1620, sur- mounted by a bronze statue of Charlemagne. The mineral waters of Aix la Chapelle are remarkable for the quantity of suljihur with which they are impregnated, and their high temperature. 1 he principal spring is that of the Emperor, with whicli is connected a large bathing establishment called the Kaiserbbad. The Louisberg, a hill on the north of Aix, is a much-frequented promenade, for the survey of the neighbourhood which it affords. There are two localities, within easy distance, connected with Charlemagne : the Castle of Frank- enberg, about one mile distant, where his Queen Fastrada died, and where he gave himself up for a time entirely to the grief occa- sioned by her loss ; and about four miles from Aix, the Castle of Em- maburg, from which his daughter eloped with Eginhard, his secre- tary. On the way from Aix to Co- logne, the district around Stolberg, traversed by the line, contains a good supply of coal, wliich has led to the establishment of iron, glass, and other manufactories upon a large scale; and iron, zinc, lead, and silver are also found in the vicinity. At Stol- berg, Esch weiler, and near Langer- wehe and Horrem stations, may be seen old castles ; that of INIerode was the ancient residence of the great ' Belgian family of that name. There is nothing further to attract the attention of the tourist until we reach Cologne, (Hofe/s: Disch,* du Nord, Mainzer Hof, HoU'dndischfr Hof, de Vieime.j (At Deutz, opposite the city. Hotel BeUeme.) Population^ 126,500. Cologne was an important Roman colony, from which cir- cumstance it derives its name. Agrippina, daughter of Germani- cus, and wife of the Emperor Claudius, was bom here, and adorned the place with an amphi- theatre, temples, aqueducts, etc., of which there are still vestiges. It was the capital of Lower Rhenish Gaul until 330, and, after many vicissitudes, was an- nexed to the German empire in 870. It became one of the richest and most powerful members of the Hanseatic League, and carried on an extensive commerce with all the maritime people of the period. The merchants of Cologne enjoyed great privileges in Eng- land, and Jillowed no ships to carry merchandise on the Rhine, past their city, except their own. The University of Cologne was one of the most esteemed in Ger- many, and all tlie arts were culti- vated there with distinguished "success. The town ceased to be free in 1794, when it fell into the FRANCE. Route 56.— I'ARIS TO COLOGXE. vts hands of the French, wlio kept possession of it until IHl I. The Archbishop was an ('^lector of the German Empire, but his electo- rate was suppressed with the liberties of tlie town. 'J'he Ca- thedral is naturally the first place to be visited. This grand Gothic edifice has not inapjiro- priately been called the St. Peter's of the north, as there is no church of its order which in any dei^ree approaches it in vastness of dimen- sions or design. Its first stone was laid in l'.^48, on the destruc- tion by fire of a preceding edifice; the choir was consecrated in 13'J'J ; the soutliern tower had attained what appeared destined to be its final height in 1437; the north and south aisles of the nave had only been carried up to the capi- tals of their cohiinns in l.")09, and all progress since that date has been made in our own times. A subscription wjvs set on foot tliroughout Europe for its com- pletion, towards which the two last kings of Prussia have added very large sums. The amount required was estimated by the late archi- tect at £750,000.' Frederick \\ il- liam V\'. laid the first stone of the transept in 1812; the nave, aisles, and transepts were conse- crated in 1848, the north and south portals have been finished, and the whole interior was thrown open in 18do. The entire length is 511 ft., the intended height of the towers when finished also 511 ft., and the width 231 ft. " The choir consists of five aisles, is 161 ft. high, and internally, from its size, height, and dispo- sition of pillars, niches, and clia- pels, and beautifully coloured windows, resembling a sj)lendid vision. Externally, its double range of stupendous flying but- tresses and intervening piers, bristling witli a forest of purpled pinnacles strike the beholder with awe and astonishment." — IIojm;. Against the coluauis of the choir stand colossal statues of the twelve A])ostles, the \'irgin, and Christ, of the fourteenth century; the stained glass windows, and the carved seats and stalls are of the same j)eriod. Knig Louis of Bavaria presented the painted windows which are in the south aisle of the nave. They are infe- rior to those in the north aisle. The celebrated siirine of the "TllHtE KiNG.S OK Co LOON K," or the Magi who brought offerings to the Saviour from tlic East, is in tlie chapel immediately behind the high altar. Their bones were presented by liarbarossa to Kai- naldo. Archbishop of Cologne, in 116-'. The case of silver-gilt, in which the bones are [(reserved, is very curiously wrought, and richly inlaid with jewels and precious stones, but it was deprived of many of the jewels for the main- tenance of its guardians, during its removal to Westphalia in the time of the French Revolution; nevertheless, it is asserted that the treasures of the shrine are still worth £i-10,000. It is only shown to tlie public free on Sun- days and festivals; at other times it is shown by the sacristan for a fee of 1§ thalers for a party. A slab in the pavement, between the high altar and the shrine, covers the heart of iNIarie de Medicis ; and the side chapels of the choir contain several monu- ments of the archbishops, com- mencing with Conrad, of lloch- steden, the founder of the church. In the chapel of St. Agnes is a very old picture in distemper (IHO), rej)resenting the Adora- tion of the -^lagi, and the legend of Cologne's other patron saints, Saint Ursula and Saint Gereon. In the sacristy are relics of saints, 276 Route 56.— PARIS TO COLOGNE. FRANCE. church plate, and many other cu- i-iosities. A good view of the town may be had from the roof. In the church of St. Ursula, called also the Ch urch of the Eleven Thousand Virgins, is the tomb of St. Ursula, and the walls of the church and of the treasury, or golden chamber, are covered with the bones of her unfortunate com- panions. The legend is thai St. Ursula, the daughter of a British king, made a pilgrimage to Rome, accompanied by 11,000 virgins. On their way back to their own country, they were massacred at Cologne by the Huns, because they persisted in remaining faith- ful to their vows. In the treasury, to show which the sacristan requires a fee, are, besides the skulls of the saint and a few of her companions, her relics in a silver case, part of an earthen vessel which held the water which was turned to wine at the Marriage in Cana, &c. The church of St. Gereon is lined with the bones of the 6,000 Martyrs of the Theban Legion who were slain here in 286 by order of the Emperor Diocletian. It is one of the finest churches in Cologne ; the nave dates from 1212, the rest of the church from 1069. St. Peter's, where Rubens was baptized, contains his famous "Crucifixion of St. Peter," painted a short time before his deatli ; and some good stained windows. The brazen font in which Rubens was baptized is still in the church. There are other extremely ancient and interesting churches of which space will only allow us to men- tion the names : the Jesuits', the Apostles', St. Mary in Capitolio, St. Cunibert, &c. The contrast of the lightness and elegance of the Romanesque style of some of these with the ponderous clumsi- ness of the Anglo-Norman is very striking. The great scholar Al- bertus Magnus was buried in St. Andrew's, 1282, and John Duns Scotus, in 1309, in the church of the Minorites. The H6tel-de-Ville, or Rath- haus, was commenced in 1250, and finished in 1571 ; the compo- site character of its architecture is admirably described by Victor Hugo. The great hall served as council-room for the Hanseatic League. The Templars' House in the Rheingasse, restored a few years since, is now used as the Exchange and Chamber of Com- merce. The old haujhaus (Cus- tom House), or Giirzenich, begun in 1441, and finished 1474, is used for balls, concerts, &c., and has two fine mediaeval chimney-pieces. Several Diets of the P2mpire have been held, and sumptuous feasts given to some of the Emperors within it. The Museum Waltraf-Richartz, a new museum inaugurated in 1861, contains a collection of Roman antiquities and of sculp- tures, &c. of the Middle Ages, and of the Renaissance, which are chiefly the gift of Professor Wall- raf. The building was constructed at the expense of Mr. Richartz. It is open every day ; admission, 10 sgr. Beside the antiquities, it contains a gallery of paintings, and some fine stained glass. Among other painters whose works are to be found in the gallery, are A Ibert Durer, Holbein, Hitbens, Van Dyck, Guido, Salvator Rosa, Titian, Cor- regio, Paul Veronese, and Tintoretto. The Zoological and Botanic Gardens, a short distance down the river, are much frequented. Marie de Medicis died in 1642, in the house No. 10, Stenien- gasse. Her heart is buried in the cathedral, as above stated; her JRANCE. Route 56.~PARIS TO COLOGNE. 277 other remains are at St. Denis. Rubens lived in the same liouse until lie was ten years old. From tlie extremities of the two bridf^es which unite Cologne to Deutz, on the opposite bank, there are fine river views of the city to be obtained. One of these bridges is the famous bridge of boats, for- merly a favourite ])ronienade ; the other, a well-constructed and hand- some iron bridge, opened in IK.')'.'. Deutz is a place much resorted to by pleasure seekers in summer evenings, as there is always music, dancing, ix.c., in the gardens on the river-side. Route 57. PARIS TO BINGEN AXD THE RHINE. fHE most direct route from Paris to Bingen, 3Iayence, and Frank- fort is by the Stras- burg Railway to Frouard, four and a half miles west of Xancy, and thence to Metz, Forbach, and Bingerbriick (close to liingen). By this route jNIayenco and F'rankfort are reached two liours sooner than by way of Strasburg or Cologne. Passengers going to Germany may purcliase mixed tickets, en- titling them to places in the first class to the frontier, and thence in the second. (See Preliminary Information.) To Bingerbriick, 377^^ miles. First class, 69"30 francs ; second, 5V30 francs. (For that portion of tlie route from Paris to Frouard, see Route 58.) Leaving Frouard we proceed for a considerable distance along tlie left bank of the Moselle, which flows by a range of hills covered with jilantations and vine- yards. At Dteutouard (222J miles) we see the ruins of a castle, and on the right, between tlie railway and the .Moselle, stretches a vast ])lain, on which are still to be seen the remains of the great Roman town of Scarpone. We pass, in succession, PoH^a-.l/oHssoH with a fine Gothic church, Xorcant, and .irs-sttr-Mnselle, near whicii we see portions of a Roman aqueduct built by Drusus, to supply .Metz with water, and arrive at IVIktz (21-1^ miles). (Hotels: de I' Europe, Grand), population 57,000. It is strongly fortified, and is situated at the confluence of the Moselle with the Seille. It became a German fortress in 1871. The military establishments of the town are numerous and important. Its streets are wide and clean, and it contains numerous spacious squares. The fine Gothic Cathe- dral, begun in 1014 and finished in 1546, is remarkable for its lightness and elegance. It has a beautiful spire of open work, 373 ft. in height. Part of the old church of Kdtre Dame de la Ronde, built in 1130, forms one of the side chapels. There is a round cliurch in the citadel, which for- merly belonged to the Knights Temj)lars. The esplanade, j)lanted with trees, and separating the town from the citadel, affords a fine promenade. The place has various manufactures, besides brass and copper foundries. In 1552 the city was besieged by the Emperor Charles \'. for ten months. It was defended by the Due de Guise, then onlv 30 years of age. At the end of' ten months the Emperor was forced to raise the siege, having lost 30,000 men. 278 Route 57. —PARIS TO BINGEN. FRANCE. Metz was ceded to France by the peace of Westphalia, October 24, 16i8, and was fortified by Vauban. On July 28, 1870, Napoleon 111. arrived at Metz, and took command of the French army. On August 6, 1870, the whole army, except three corps, was concentrated here after the defeats at Woerth and Forbach, and was hemmed in by the Ger- mans. On October 27, 1870, after a siege of nine weeks, Metz was surrendered by INIarshal Bazaine, together with 173,000 men, in- cluding 6,000 officers, three of whom were marshals of France. After leaving Metz, the first place worthy of mention on our route is Forbach (2871 miles.) (Ho- tel: du Chariot d'Or), population about 5,000. This is a manufactur- ing town, built at the foot and along the slope of a mountain called the Sihlossberg, which is surmounted by the ruins of an an- cient fortress. Saarbrucken(292 miles.) (Ho- tel: da Chemin de Fer), popula- tion 19,000. The town is situated on the left bank of the Saar, at the foot of a hill adorned with nu- merous gardens. A stone bridge of about 180 yards long, crossing the river, connects the town with the Faubourg Sanct-Johami. Up to 1793, the Castle was the resi- dence of the Princes of Nassau- Saarbriicken; the church con- nected with it contains several tombs of that family ; but a still greater number of tomljs, and several curious baptismal fonts, are to be seen in the beautiful Gothic cburch of Arnual, a short distance from the town, to the southward, in front of which rises the mountain called Halberg, from whose summit a beautiful view can be obtained, On August 2nd, 1870, Saarbriicken was bom- barded by the French, and the Germans dislodged. The Empe- ror and Prince Imperial witnessed the bombardment. It was here the Prince "went through liis baptism of fire." Here also the mitrailleuse had its first trial in an actual conflict. Oberstein (339 miles). A large proportion of the population of this town are engaged in cut- ting and polishmg agates and chalcedony. The agate quarries are at Idal, about 2 miles distant, where there are polishing mills. On two isolated rocks, near the town, are the ruins of old castles. In the face of the precipice, plainly seen from the railway, is an ancient church, the roof and one side of which are formed of the living rock. A spring of water flov^'s from the floor. The next station of importance is Creuznach (373 miles). (Ho- tels: Golden Ea^le, Berliner Hof, Oranieu HoJ, Holldndischer Hof), population, 10,000. About 3 miles before reaching Creuznach Baths, the railway passes close to the saltworks of Miinster-am- Stein, belonging to Prussia, built on a flat, almost encircled by the Nahe, and close by the i-ed por- phyry precipice of Rheingrafen- stein, an ancient stronghold of the Rheingraves. It is 420 ft. high, and is crowned by the Castle of the same name. Creuznach has become celebrated for its mineral waters, which attract more than .5000 visitors annually. They are chiefly efficacious in scrofulous diseases. The tepid spring was discovered in 1832, and a second in 1838; and in 1840, a Kurhaus was built, comprising a reading- room, hotel, and restaurant, baths, &c., and a garden, laid out in the English style. Since that period, the town has gradually risea iu populatioa. fRANCE. Route 58.— P^R/S TO STRASBURG. 279 The nr-ii^hbourliood affords many jili-asant excursions. From the suiniiiit of tlie Kauzenber^', or Schtosihti-i^, as it is also caHed, is a beautiful view of the town and surroundin}^ country. Leavini^Creuznacli, the railway keeps along the left bank of the Nane, passin^^ places of no par- ticular note, and reaches Binger- BRUCK, on the Rhine, the terminus of the route. Persons intending to remain at Bingen cross the Nahe from tliis point by a fine bridge. '1 he distance from Bin- gerbriick station to the hotels at JiiNC.KN (Hotels: Victoria, White Horse) is less than a mile. Route 58. PARIS TO STRASBURG AND THE RHINE. 312 miles; Jirsl class, 56-'20 francs ; second class, 42'i5 francs ; third, 30-90francs. 'HE express trains which leave Paris in the morn- ing and evening, are composed of first class only. Part of the car- riages in each train go direct to the Strasburg station, while those in the after ])art of the train, assigned to passengers destined to 15aden, or oth(>r places beyond the German frontier, do not go to Strasburg, but proceed from the Junction outside the city to Kkui,, at the eiistern extremity of the Rhine bridge. The Paris Terminus is in the Place de Strasburg, at the ex- tremity of the Boulevard de Stras- burg. The first important place we reach is Mkavx ('J8 mdes). {Hotels: Gri^nan, des Trois Rois). Population l'J,()0(). It is situated on the Marne. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Etienne, is a carriai; splendid specimen of Gothic archi- tecture: it was coMimt'nced in the twelfth century, and is still un- finished. In the interior we find the monument of I'hilip of ( 'astile (r"'|)resenting a kneeling figure, in armour, bareheaded), and the monument of IJossuet, the emi- nent divine and orator, who was, for some time, JSisliop of .Meaux. At the Bishop's Palace certain me- mentoes of this celebrated man are preserved; viz., the study in which lie composed liis sermons and ora- tions, and the avenue of yews, beneath which was his favourite promenade. Among other j)ublic buildings are the General I]ospiial ; the Seiiiinaru, formerly a Hospice; the Holel-de-Ville ; the Library and the College. There are also beautiful public walks in the vici- nity of the town. Soon after tilul nub of the leaving ]\Ieaux we cross the INIarne, and, passing through the tunnel oi Armentiires, again cross it, and presently arrive at La- FruTE-sors-JorAiiRE (41^ miles). (Hotels: de France, dn Pore-Epic). Population 4,6(J0. The .Mariie is here agreeaV)ly diversified with islands. The Pavilion, built in the reign of Louis XIII., was once the residence of the Due de St. Simon. This town is famous for its mill-stones, numbers of which are exported to England and America. The word Fertc is a corruption of fortifii, and forms the prefix of several towns in France. We proceed for some distance along the picturestpie banks of the river, and reach CiiATFAi'-TiiiERHv {59} miles). {Hotel: d'Angleterre), situated on a hill above the ^larne. The ruined Castle is surrounded by pleasure-grounds. After passing through the beautiful valley of the .Alarne we come to Epf.rnav (88J miles), (Hotel: de rKiirope), population 11,850, noted for its 280 Route 5S.— PARIS TO STRASBURG. FRANCE. champagne wine. About half-an- hour is allowed for refreshment. Epernay, next to Rheims, is the most important seat of the trade in champagne wines, and several of the most noted of the manufac- turers liave their places of busi- ness here, among them ftloet and Chandon, and H. Piper and Co. (the original owners of the famous mark of Heidseick). The cellars of the last-named firm are the most extensive in the district. [A branch-line of 18| miles takes us to Rheims (107^ miles from Paris). (Hotels: Linn d'Or, du Commerce), population about 60,000. One of the most im- portant towns in the great Cham- pagne district. It is situated on the river Vesle, a small tributary of the Aisne, in a plain surrounded by a range of low hills covered Avith vineyards. Of the public buildings the most remarkable by far is the fine Gothic Cathedral. It dates from 1212, and is 466 ft. long, and 121 ft. higli. There are no less than 600 statues on the portal, 'llie rose-window in the western front is 40 ft. in diameter, of exquisite tracery and brilliant colouring. There are numerous other windows of great beauty. It has been said that the archi- tecture of the interior more nearly resembles that of Westminster Abbey than any other English cathedral, but it is perl;aps more simple and severe. It was in this church that the ceremony of anointing or consecrating the kings of France formerly took place. Charles VII. was crowned here in the presence of .loan of Arc. The church of St. Remy is a fine structure. The Hotel-de- Ville is remarkable for its vast size and tjje beauty of its modern fa(;ade. The othfr noteworthy buildings are the Arclihishop's Pa- luce, and the Porte -de -Mars, a triple archway of Roman con- struction, forming one of the city gates. Rheims contains a Lhn- versity, a School of Design, a Pic- ture Gallery, Botanic Garden and a Public Library. It is one of the principal entrepots for the wines of Champagne, and a chief centre of the woollen manufactures of France. The trade in champagne wines is chiefly carried on in Rheims, Avise, Epernay, and Chalons-sur- IVIarne. The cellars in which the vintages are stored are cut out of the calcareous rock. The entire production of sparkling cham- pagne wine is a little less than 13,^000,000 bottles per annum, of which 3,000,000 bottles are ex- ported to the United States. A, railway connects Rheims with Namur in Belgium by way of Mezieres-Charleville, and Gi- VET, a frontier fortress of France, Mezieres is a fortified town connected by a suspension bridge over the Meuse with Charle- ville (distance from Rheims 56 miles). From Slezieres-Charle- ville a riiilway extends to Thion- ville, a station on the railway be- tween Luxembourg and Sletz. Pursuing this route we pass, after leaving Mezieres, Donchery, just outside of which, at a weaver's cottage, took place, on Sept. 2nd, 1870, the memorable interview between Napoleon III. and Bis- marck. The next station of im- portance is Sedan (64 miles from Rheims), (Hotels: de I'Europe, Croix d'Or), a fortress of the third class, with a population of 18,000, chiefly engaged in the manufacture of woollen goods. Around this place occurred, on the last three days of August, 1870, the despe- rate conflicts between the French army under JVIaciVIahon (150,000 strong), and the German armies under King William, the Crown STRf so joo loo~ loo ido 3»f Appletuii's European Guide Book. 3URG. \ PafaiXfieJustirr » ffotrl Jfs JfannatAi- I Jttidemif Impen'ttU K ,1 u:t C J I) I Iti ilaspii'T ,i.\x(hjih,'li tis E 1 VX Bibliothequ^ PSaCU 18 Srmtniurr ( a 10 Hams Imperial C 5 "SS f-UitMiijGrHf taitat-f (" 4 11' Fatififn'r lmpfn'aU\^%KZ •J!( Maiuif. ImptifsTtibiirs K 3 'i4 /^'stfii ti 5 'J5 I'uste aiir L*ttrt,f B 1 26 /A^-W/zv D :i 77 .Ttattte rf> Gutenhrrg I) 1 "St Statu,' df klfb^r C4 'J^ SttttiifiUletai^ManifjiaJA 3 II I'lilin lies .10 lathrilral 31 S'.Thumajr :C .S-.hrrrrU .hunt ;M J"'./»-m 35 iT* Gttittaiimtf 36 S'lMULt 37 .r.JJro/^jj ^JB TrmpU Sfuf :19 .VyAiir/Uf Ul .n'HaMaint ti Temptftin Jtffbrmtt ■fi! Stfnagoguf I. I r.-. B4 ' (3 114 E3 • i CI A.') K3 . r4 C4| H D. \jtii1pIimi i*i- Co. FRANCE. Route 58.— PARIS TO STRASBURG. 281 Prince of Prussia, and the Crown Prince of Saxony ('250,000 men), wliich were broujjlit to a close on Sept. 1. The whole French arm^', I^es, near Sedan, exposed for four lioiirs to the German fire. 'Die interview between the King and ihe JOmperor, on Sept. itnd, took CATHEDRAL AT nilEIMS. with the exception of a small part which escaped info Bel-jiuni, sur- rendered as prisoners of war. The Emperor gave hinis(>lf up as a pri- soner to the King. It is said that on Sept. 1 the Emperor stood at place at the Chateau of Bellevue, near Frenois, about '2.\ miles from Sedan. The names of the stations beyond Sedan, Bazi ii.i.is, Douzy (70 miles), Carignan (T? miles), MoNT.MEDV (96 miles), and Thion- 282 Route 58.— PARIS TO STRASBURG. FRANCE. ville (138 miles from Rheims), are familiar in connection with the military operations -which pre- ceded the hiittle of Sedan. During that battle Bazeilles was burnt by the Bavarians, an\I great outrages committed. Of the 2,000 inhabi- tants scarcely fifty were left alive. Thion VILLE, population 8,500, is a fortified town, before 1871 be- longing to France. It is situa*ed on the Moselle, about 15 miles from jMetz. It was an occasional residence of Charlemagne and his successors. It successfully resisted the Austrians in 1792, and the Prussians in 1814. It was invested by the German army in August, 1870, and having- been bombarded and set on fire, surrendered on Nov. 24. Distance from Luxem- bourg 2.S miles.] Proceeding on our journey we next reach Ciialons-suh-Marne (107^ miles) {Hotel: de la Haute Mh-e Dieu), with a population of 17,700. It carries on a consider- able trade in cliampagne. The church of Ndt)-e Dame is worth notice. M. Jaqueson's champagne cellars, near the station, are six miles long, and are excavated from the chalk rocks. In the neighbourljood was the once im- portant camp of the French army. [From Clialons a railway leads, by St. RIenehould, to Verdun, a strongly fortified town of 15,000 inhabitants. It surrendered to the German army November 8, 1870.] V I T R Y - L E - F R A X 9 A I S (128 miles) was built by Francis I. in the sixteenth century. We next pass Bi.ksme (135^ miles) and other unimportant sta- tions, and arrive at Bar-le-Duc (1585 miles), the ancient seat of the Dues de Bar. Charles Ed- ■«\'ard, the Pretender, lived here for some time. At Commercy (183j miles), on the Meuse, we see the barracks, formerly a cha- teau, in which Stanislaus, King of Poland, resided. We presently cross the Meuse, and reach Toul (199 miles), the spires of wliose cathedral are visible from a great distance. In the Church of St, Etienne is preserved " a nail of the true cross," used by the Em- peror Constantine as a bridle bit. This strongly fortified town of 9,000 inhabitants was invested by the German army on August 14, 1870, and was surrendered on September 23 while burning in twenty - three places. Passing Fbouard (214^ miles) (where a line branches off to Metz), we arrive at Nancy (220 miles), (Hotels: de France, de Metz, d'Aii- gleterre); population, 50,000. This is considered one of the hand- somest towns in France. It is situated on the left bank of the Meurthe, and is divided into the old and new town. In the former we may observe the re- mains of the old Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine, part of which is devoted to a collection of anti- quities; the ancient Citadel; the Church of the Cordeliers, which contains some finely -sculptured tombs, with the Ducal Chapel ad- joining it ; the latter was the mortuary chapel of the Dukes of Lorraine ; the Arch of Triumph, at the extremity of the Cours d'Orleans; the Palais de Justice, in the Place de la Carrilre, which is separated from the Place Royale by another magnificent triumphal arch, &c. The new town contains the Hotel-de-Ville, tlie Episcopal Palace, the statue of Stanislaus, King of Poland, and Duke of Lorraine, to whom the erection of the greater part of the new town is dne, and two fine fountains, several churches, &c. At the extremity of the Faubourg St. Pien-e is the church of Notre Dame de Bon Secours, on the site of an older FRAN'CE. Rouu SB.—PARIS TO STRASRURG. 283 church built by Ren^, Ducde T.or- raiiie, to coiiiiiii'nioratf his victory over C'hurlis tlic Bold, in 1 177. In tliis cliurcli arc tlif tombs of Stanishius and ins Queon. [From Nancy a line brandies off to Epinal (74 miles) and Remire- mont (80 miles from Nancy). Eight miles from tiiis place is Plo.mhiikfs (j)opulation 'J, .500), a\vaterino:-place much frecjuented for its >varm saline baths.] Lvne- vii.i.K (I'-W miles) ( Hotel : du Faisun), a town of l,i,liit inhabi- tants, is the place where, after tho battle of Man-ni^o, the Trenlii of Peace was sij^ned, in IfiOl, be- tween France and Austria, by which the Rhine became the frontier of France. The palace was the birthplace of trancis Duice of Lorraine, husband of Maria Theresa, and progenitor of the Imperial House of .Austria. AviucouuT ('2Jo miles), Til K Fiusx German- Station. Sakrebirg (i.'68j miles) (Hotels : Suuiage, Grand) is a fortified town on the left bank of the tfarre. The inhabitants of the i'pper Town speaii French, those of the Lmcer Town, German. ^Ve now proceed througli the Vosges Mouniuins by several tunnels, and pass under the canal connecting the Marne with the Rliine, winch takes the same route. We then cross the beautiful valley of the Zorn. Passing through a tunnel beneath the Castle of Liitzelburi^, we reach Saverne (285 miles) (Hotel: Ba'uf Noir) ; population, 5,500. The castles of Huut-Barr and Gerold-Seck stand on tlie hills in the neigiibouriiood. The plain of Alsace, along which our route ex- tends, IS one of tiie riciiest agri- cultural districts in Europe. STRASRURG. (31'2J miles.) 'OPULATIOX. 82,000, (Hotels:, de I'arii, Mai- son Roiif^e, d' Angle- lerre). 'I'liis is a forti- fied city, and was the cajiilal of the Department of tiie lias lihin. It is situated at the confluence of the 111 and tiie 15rusche, and near tlie left bank of the Rhine. Stnisburj was tormerly a city ot the tiemian Empire, and the huiguage and customs of a large proportion of the inhabitants are still tii-rman. The streets are, in general, ir- regular, and tlie houses old- fashioned and curious. There are several squares and extensive pro- menades. The most celebrated building is the Cathedru., one of the finest in Europe, founded in r>Oi, and one of the best existing specimens of Gothic architecture. It is rich in sculpture, statues, and bas- reliefs. The spire rises 471 ft. above the pavement ; it is 68 ft. higher than St. Paul's, and is 24 ft. above the great pyramid of Egypt. Stilly owing to the large dimensions of tlie entire building, anil the hght and graceful structure of the spire, it does not iiujiress the observer as being of this extraordinary height. The nave of the church is 230 ft. high, and the round window at the end is 48 ft. ia diameter. This wonderful struc- ture was begun nearly 800 years ago. It has sutl'ered very little from time, and tlie chiselled and carved* material, after so many centuries of exposure to the wea- ther, ret.iins the .sharpness of outline which it had when first finished. It was intended to have two towers, like the Cathedrals at 284 Route 58.— PARIS TO STRASBURG. FRANCE, York and Westminster Abbey; but, as tlie expense is enormous, it is probable that tlie existing tower will remain alone. This deficiency gives the Cathedral a disfigured appearance, especially as the unfinished tower, which is square, rises but half way. Externally, the Cathedral is distinguished by a light and airy gracefulness of structure tnd material; the sandstone is cut and carved into many varied forms, some of them extremely delicate and beautiful. The num- ber of images that cluster around the portal, and adhere to its walls, is very great. Themagnificentrows of columns are very striking. The windows, on both sides, are filled with stained glass, commemorating the events of the Bible, and^ the characters and events in the lives of saints and martyrs. There is in this Catliedral a wonderful fl.s7nj/i(i??;i(:-(//c/orA-, which has been substituted for an older one that has been removed. The present clock is about 50 ft. high, and more than half that width. Among its many performances are the following: — It indicates the hours, half, and quarter hours, and the bells are struck by auto- maton figures. A youth strikes the quarter, a man the half hour, and an old man, as the figure of Time, the full hour. This clock tells also tile times and seasons of ecclesiastical events, as far as they are associated witii astronomical phenomena, the phases of tlie moon, and the equation of time. At noon, a cock, mounted on a pillar, crows thrice, when a pro- cession of apostles comes ^t and passes in view of the Saviour. There is also a celestial circle or orrery that shows the motions of the heavenly bodies. The ca- thedral was much damaged during the siege and bombardment of the city by the Germans. It is estimated that it was struck by shells and other projectiles nearly 1,000 times. All the great win- dows except two were badly shat- tered, the organ was struck by a shell and was badly damaged, and some of the statues and carvings upon the exterior were broken. The entire damage to the struc- ture is estimated at two millions of francs. In the Lutheran Church of St. Thomas is the interesting and beau- tiful monument of Marshal Saxe. There is an open tomb, a marble sarcophagus of large dimensions : the lid is raised, as if in prepara- tion for a burial. At one end of the tomb is a skeleton, represent- ing Death, with a robe thrown loosely over him, while he reclines his head upon the sarcophagus, and Hercules, with sorrowful ex- pression, leans upon the other end of the tomb. On the right a bending female figure, personify- ing France in deep sorrow, raises her hand to prevent the voluntary descent of JVIarshal Saxe to the grave, and at the same time to arrest the advance of Death ; the JMarshal stands erect, with a calm demeanour, and with one foot ad- vanced, as if he were about to seek his last resting place. On his right are allegorical figures re- presenting the nations over whose armies he had been victorious. Among other notable structures which existed before the war were the Temple Neuf and the Theatre, both burned ; Hotel de Villa (badly damaged). Palace of Jus- tice, and the Episcopal Palace. The Public Lihraiy, rich in Incu- 7iahula, and cntitainiiig over 160,000 volumes, ivas totallii destroiied. The city was invested by the Germans on August 10, 1870. The bombardment began on Au- FHANCE. Route 58.— PARIS TO STRASIiURG. 285 gust 14. After a heroic resistance the phice surrendereil at ti a. si. on September '28, 17,500 men and 400 ofticers layincj down their arms. It is ascertaineil that (hiring the siej^e -100 houses wen; burned down, 1,700 civilians killed or wounded, and 8,000 persons left roofless. Hardly a house in tlie whole city escaped without some damage. The city will present for years to come a melancholy aspect, whole streets being only masses of ruins. The Gennans entered Strasburg on the anniversary of its surrender to the French in 1681. Strasburg bas a great variety of manufactures, compris- ing watches and clocks, leather, cottons, silks, and cutlery. It also supplies beer and provisions in considerable quantities to all parts of the continent, and is famous for the manufacture of " Fdiis defoie grus." [An excursion may be con- veniently made from Strasburg by railway to U'eissembourg, and thence to the battle fields of WoERTH and Gkavelotte — pas- sengers by railway between Stras- burg and Metz, by way of Hague- iiau and Bitsch, pass very near them. The battle of Woerth was fought on August 6, 1870, between the army of the Crown Prince of Prussia, 1'20,00() men, and that of Marshal .Mac .Mahon, 47,000 men, in whicli the latter was defeated with a loss of '20,000 killed and wounded, and 6000 prisoners. The battle of Gravelotte was fought on August 18, 1870, be- tween the German army, '240,000 men, and the Trench under Ba- zaine, '210,000 men. The King commanded tlie German army. The French were defeated after losing 19,000 men. The German loss was estimated at 25,000. The battle of Gravelotte ranks as one of the three greatest battles of the century, tholitical characters previous to, and dur- ing the first empire. Proceeding through a pictures(|ue country, we pass Verdures, ceh-brated for its extensive clock manufactures, and several othrr ])lace8, and finally, after obtaining a line view of the range of tht- A1])S, reach Xi-ucn.\TEL( j1.5§ miles). (For description of Neuchiitel, and route to Berue, see Route 93). Route 61. PARIS TO GENEVA, BY MACON. 375 i( miles ; 1st class, 67'30 francs ; 2nd, 50-50 francs; 3rd, 36-00 francs. ( For that part of the route from Paris to Micon, see Route 63.) ^FTER passing IMAcon, the first place of note is noino (298 miles), ( Hotels : de I' Europe, du Midi), population 13,86-1. This town formerly belonged to the House of Savoy. Francis I. took it in 1538, but it was not till 1600 that it finally passed into the liands of the French. About half a mile from Bourg is the Church of \'6tre Damede 7J/ on, a remarkable Gothic structure, built in 1505-36 by !Mar- garet of Austria, daughter of the Emperor Maximilian, and aunt of Charles V. The interior is deco- rated with sculptures, including tlie beautiful mausoleums of ^lar- garet of Bourbon, Margaret of Austria, and Philibert le Beau, fine wood car\'ings and painted windows. Sliortly after passing Ambk- Rii-vx (317 miles), where we join Route 61.— PARIS TO GENEVA. FRANCE. the line from Lyons to Geneva, we proceed along tlie bank of the river Alberine, up a narrow valley through the Jura mountains, the sides of which, up to their very summits are covered with vines. At CuLOz (334 miles) there is a branch line to Cliambery and Mont Cenis. Some miles further on we reach Beltegarde (Hotels: Poste, de la Perte da Rhone), the frontier town of France. A short distance from the station is the Perte du Rhone, a narrow rocky cliannel, where the river, when low, disappears for a distance of about 120 yards. Blasting- opera- tions, carried on with the object of facilitating the navigation of the river, have greatly spoilt the curious effect oi" this formation. Beyond Bellegarde a viaduct of eleven arches crosses the bed of the Valserine, and enters the Tunnel of the Credo, nearly 2^ miles in length. The cost of making it was seven and a half million francs, and it took three and a half years to complete it. The work was under the direction of Mr. Goodfellow, an English engineer. From Bellegarde to CoUonges, six miles distant, the Rhone flows through a narrow gorge, between Mont Vonache and Mont Credo, described by Caesar as " A narrow and difficult way between Mont Jura and the river Rhone, by which carriages could scarcely be drawn, one by one ; moreover, a very lofty moun- tain overhung it, so that a very few could easily prevent a pas- sage." Near the further ex- tremity of the gorge is the Fort de I'Ecluse, standing on a high and steep rock commanding the pass. We next go tlirough two short tunnels cut through tlie rock, and reach CoUonges, the last station in France. As we pro- ceed, we begin, by degrees, to observe the chain of heights which are crowned by Mont Blanc, and, shortly before reach- ing Mei^rin, we obtain a view of Mont Blanc itself. On the left are the Alps of the cantons of Vaud and Valais, on the right, Credo and the Fort de I'Ecluse, beliind us the Jura mountains, and in front les Salives, overtopped by Mont Blanc. We next reach Geneva (375^ miles). (For de- scription of Geneva, see Route 86.) Route 62. PARIS TO TURIN, BY MT. CENIS. 505 miles ; 1st class, 105 francs ; 2nd, 83-95 francs; 3rd, 62-65 francs, (For that part of the Route from Paris to Macon, see Route 63 ; and from Macon to Culoz, see Route 61.) EAVING Culoz we cross the Rhone, having on our right the canal of Savieres, which con- nects the lake of Bourget with the Rhone. The railway skirts for a long distance the shore of the lake, the views over which are very fine. On the left is the Chdteau de Cha- tillon, where Pope Celestin IV. was born. Across the lake is the range of hills called the " Dent du Chat," at tlie base of which is the Monastery of Haute Combe, in the Gothic chapel of which the Princes of Savoy are buried. The original convent was pillaged during the French revolution, and so badly injured as to require to be rebuilt, whicli was clone in 1824 by Charles Felix, King of FRANCE. Route &2.— PARIS TO TURIX. 289 Sardinia. It is now occui)ied by- Cistercian monks. Lamartine has made tliis lake the scene of some of the most toiiclunj,' incidents re- lated in his " Uajihael." After skirtinj^ the shore for a consider- able distance, the line branches off to the town of Atx i.is Hains, (363 miles). {Hotels: del' Europe,* imperial); population, -1,000. This agreeable watering-])lace is at a short distance from the lake of Bourgpt. It is celebrated for its hot aluminous and sulphurous springs, the temperature of which ranges from 100^ to 117^ Fithr. The waters, under the name of AqutE Gratiii>iies of the paintings, pre- served in the I.ouvre, represent- ing the life of St. 15runo, the founder, by Lesoeur, together with portraits of the Cii'nerals of tiie Order, and a statue of St. Bruno in marble. The brethren are bound to preserve silence amongst themselves, and are only allowed to go beyond the precincts of the convent on Tiiursdays, on wliich day they are allowed to answer strangei-s who address them. The monk wlio attends to visitors within the convent has a disi)ensation from his vow of silence whilst so engaged. The chief revenues of the monks are derived from their cattle, and from the manufacture of the ex- cellent lifpieur which takes its name from this place. Tlie CJrande Chartreuse dates fi'om 1084. There were formerly about 'JOO convents belonging to the order, among them the Char- terhouse in London. GnENOBLE {Hotels : de rEiirope, Monnet, des Trois Uuuphins) ; population, 1-8,100, is a fortified town situated on the Isere, near its confluence with the Drac and Romanche. These streams water a deliglitful valley, surrounded by high mountains. The cathedral is not attractive externally, but contains an elegantly sculptured Gothic tabernacle, and a tine 290 Route 62.— PARIS TO TURIN. FRANCE. tomb of one of its former bishops, in the choir. In the church of St. Andre is the monument of the Che V alier Bay ard, in whose honour a bronze statue is erected in the Place St. Andre. Thei'e is a Pa- lais de Justice, a Museum, Cabinet of Natural History, and a re- markably fine Library. The chief manufacture carried on at Gre- noble is that of kid gloves, of which on an average six million pairs are produced in the year. Many pleasant excursions can be made in the neighbourhood; among others, to La Grande Chartreuse, which may be reached either by rail to Vore])pe, on the Lyons Railway, and from thence by omnibus to St. Laurent du Pout, close to the monastery, or by a bridle road, which latter takes six or seven hours.] After passing Chambery we proceed along a beautiful valley, leaving the Castle of Bdtie on the left, and, on the right, Mont Gre- nier, which rises to a height of 5,700 ft. A little further on we observ^e, on the left bank of the river Isere, the Chateau Bayard, where tlie famous knight of that name was born. We presently reach Montmelian (383 miles). The castle, of which a mere frag- ment remains, was formerly the great stronghold of Savoy. Be- yond Montmelian we obtain, in fine weather, a good view of Mont Blanc. Near St. Pierre d'Albigny, a few miles distant, is the ruined Chateau de Miolans, standing on a lofty rock. Previous to the an- nexation of Savoy, this castle had, for some time, been used as a state prison. At Aiguebelle in the valley of the Maurienne, we observe the Castle of La Charbon- niire, where many of the counts of Savoy were born. Originally their seat was at St. Jean de Mauri- enne (416 miles), the cathedral of which place contains some hand- some wood carvings. The neigh- bourhood is famous for its vine- yards. The next station is St. Michel (424 miles). {Hotels: de la Samaritaine, de Paste). From St. Michel, passengers are conveyed by " Fell's ' Railway, by which railway carriages ascend and descend the mountain with perfect facility and safety. The railway does not interfere with the carriage-road. Persons de- siring to proceed more slowly may procure excellent carriages at St. Michel. About 9 miles from the latter place and near Modane is the commencement of the great Tunnel under the Alps, 7^ miles in length, completed on Cliristmas Day, 1870. Boring operations were carried on from both the French and Italian sides by means of engines worked by condensed air. Near Modane is the magni- ficent Fort I'Essillon, or Bramans, standing on a rocky height, con- nected with the road by a bridge called Pont du Diable. It is about to be dismantled. The ascent of Mont Cenis com- mences at Lanslebourg (448 miles), the road being carried up the side of the mountain by zig- zags. Having gained the most ele- vated point of the road, we descend a little toward a plain called the Plain of Mount Cenis; and here we find the well-known Hospice originally founded by Charle- magne. Of the whole of the pass jNIont Cenis itself is the least dreary part. Its hospice, its houses of refuge, each occupied by a Cantonnier, and the number of travellers, and waggons and carts loaded with merchandize, continually passing, take away all idea of desolation, notwithstanding the wildness of the scenery. rnANCE. Route 62.— PARIS TO TURIS. 291 Tlif! avprag;f> inclination of tlio road is about 1 t"(. in 16. TIip higlipgt ])oint is 6,780 ft. ; and the highoRt peak of iMout C'pnis is 11,4/50 ft. above the li'vel ofthesea. Mont Cenis presents a more imposinsj front on the Italian side than on the French, where it sl()j)es gradually toward the valley of the Arc; accordingly, the views on the south side are more iniposinj^ than those toward the north. After passing Rochemehm, an enormous mountain wliich rises on the opposite side of the valley of the Novalese, the vale of the Doria expands before us and pre- sents one of the most beautiful views in the A1])S, extendingas far as'J'urin and the valley of the Po. Near Susa is the dismantled fort of I, a Brunette, once the Key to the Pass. SusA (471 miles\ {Uoteh: de France, La I'osta). Fromthispoint Turin is readied by railway in less than two hours. There is little at Susa to attract the tourist. Its chief sight is the triumphal arch, built eight years b. c, in honour of Augustus, by Cotys, a petty sovereign of this region. Jt is not far from the station, a little way outsiile the town. ( From Susa to Turin, see Route 123). Route 63. PARIS TO LYONS, MAR- SEILLES AND NICE. To Marseilles 536 J miles ; 1st class, 96'65 francs ; 2nd, 7'2'50 francs; 3rd, 53'15 francs. \ K A V I XG Paris from the station on the Boule- vard .Mazas, we pass Charenton (;>i miles), celebrated for its Lunatic Asylum. At lirnnnif (13} miles), thi-re is a ruined castle, once the residence of till- Due de la Rochefoucauld. The Krst stojipage is at Mei.i.n ('.W miles), the .^lilniluHiim of Cnesar. We proceed tlirough the charming valley of the St-ine and reach Font M\ KB i.KAV (36.1 miles), already described in this work. JMoNTKRKAr ( 40| miles), where there is a delay of five niiiiules, is celebrated for the great liattJe of February 18, 1814, in which the Allies were totally routed by the French under Napoleon, it is situated near the confluence of the Yonne and the Seine. We next reach Sens (704 miles). (Hotel: de Paris.) Population 1'2,()00. This was the ancient ca])it.al of the Sennones. The Cathedral, completed in 1168, was built by tiie same architect who, a few years afterwards, con- structed the choir at Canterbury. There is a great similarity be- tween the two structures. Pass- ing JoiGNV (91:J^ miles), Im Rtvhe (97 miles), (where the great Canal de Boitrgogne enters the Yonne, which connects it with the Seine and the Rhone), and other unim- portant stations, we reach Ton- NERRE (123 miles). The Hospital was originally founded in 1293, by Marguerite de Bourgogne, Queen of Sicily. It was restored about thirty years ago, but the chapel, containing the tomb of the founder, is untouched. 'I'he/os.v Dioune is a large spring, issuing from the foot of a hill near the town and rushing down into the Arrnan<;'in a few hundred yards from its source. It turns more than one mill in the interval. At Tanlaii ( I'.'B miles) we see the Tour de la l-ii^^ue, one of the grandest chateaux in Burgumly. In the park are the ruins of the Abbave de Quincij, commenced in tlie tliirteentli century ; near it is 292 Route 63.~-PARIS TO NICE. THANCE, t]\ef0iitame de St. Gaiiltier, of the same period. Another ftfte cliateau is seen at Ancy le Franc {i36^ miles) ; soon after passing wliicli we stop at Nnits-sur-Ravitre^, now a small village, formerly a fortified town. Monlhard (Idl^ miles) contains the ruined castle of the Dukes of Burgundy, and a statue of BufFon, the naturalist, whose house is still to be seen, surrounded by gardens laid out with fine terrace-walks. Leaving IMontbard, we cross the canal de Bourgogne, the Brenne and the Touillon, and, see, on the left, Mimt Auxois, on which Vercinge- torix, the leader of the Gauls,, posted himself before the battle of Alesia. Dijon (196^ miles.) (Hotels: de la Cloche, du Jura), population 39,200. There is here a delay of some minutes. This important town-, once the capital of Bur- gundy, is situated in a plain, at the confluenceoftlieOucheand Suzon, and at the base of the vine-clad hills which produce the famous Burgundy wines. Its ancient ramparts have been tastefully planted with fine trees, and con- verted into promenades. Of its fortifications, the castle, built by Louis XL alone remains. In the Place-Grande, formerly Place- Royal, is the Palais-des-Etats, the ancient palace oftheDukes of Bur- gundy, now the Hotel de Vilte, a portion of which is used as a museum, and contains sundry re- lics of the middle ages, of great interest, besides a library of 4t),00O volumes. 'J he tower, a lofty, irre- grular structure, is used as an ob- servatory. The Cathedral de 5'. Benigne — formerly the Cistercian Abbey of S. Benigne — founded in, 535, and finished in 1288, is a lofty Gothic building, with a tall wooden spire. The church of Notre Dame, founded in 1253, and that ©f Saint Michel, completed toward the end of the fifteenth century are worth notice. The public institutions are numerous ; the principal of them being the University, the Library, the School of Arts, and the Botanic Ciarde7i. Manufactures of nearly all kinds are carried on here. Dijon was the birthplace of the illustrious Bossuet. The town was taken by the Germans, Oct. 31, 1870. Beaune (2195 miles) is one of the chief towns of the Cote d'Or, and gives its name to a celebrated Burgundy wine. The whole dis- trict through which we pass for many miles abounds in vineyards. Chalons-swr-Saone (239 miles) depends almost entirely on the wine trade. Here are also a foundry, and iron stores connected with the great iron-works of Creuzot. SIacon (275 miles), (Hotel: de I' Europe), is on the right bank of the Saone. It has a population of 18,400. On the river-side are handsome quays, witli two commodious harbours. INIacon contains several note- worthy churches,, and the ruins of a Cathedral, which was almost en- tirely destroyed during the first revolution. It carries on an ex- tensive trade in the excellent wines grown in the vicinity, known as Vin de Mdcon, as well as in corn, cattle, &c. (Railway to Geneva and Mt. Cenis brunches off.) La- martiue was a native of Macon. Lyons (319 miles.) (Hotels: Grand Hotel de Lyon, Collet, de I'Univers), Population estimated at 325,000. This, the second town of France in population, and the first in industrial resources, is situated at the confluence of the Rhone with the Saone. It is celebrated for its silk manufactures. In the extent of this trade, it surpasses every other to^\Ti of Europe. In variety and elegance of design, as well as < FRAN'CE. Route 63.— PARIS TO .Y/CE. 2i>.3 in (jiiality, the Lyons silk manu- factures art' sjri'iitly superior to those of any otlier place. There are about ;Jl,(1J0 silk looms iu and al)out tliecity, besides sj)iniiint;-niills, bhinki't niiwuifac- tories,and dieniical works. Tliere are several large and important suburbs: /-es 7Jn)//ei/i(.i, tlie liand- somest part of Lyons; I.u Guil- lotiire, l.u Croix- Roitsse, \c. It has also several fine scpiares ; the Place lieUeciUir, or Louis Ic (iraiul^ being one of the largest in Eurojie, covering l.> acres. The Cathedral and church of St. .YisiVr, the Ilolel- de-ville, the Hospital, nndtlie Palais des Beaux Arts are among the most notable institutions. The Public Libraru is the best provincial col- lection in France. It contains about 1:?(),(K)0 volumes, and many important manuscrij)ts. The quays, yS in number, are said to be the most remarkable iu Europe. The principal are Quais Ht. Clair, St. Antoiite and d'Orleans. On the right bank of the Saone are the lieis;^hts of Fourrieres, the base of which is washed by tlie river. The steep hill, crowned by the church of Notre Dame, is gene- rally the first spot to which new comers direct their steps, on ac- count of the magnificent view to be obtained from it, extending in one direction, to the hills of Savo}', while to the east, in clear weather, JMont Blanc is visible. After tiie Revolution of 1789, the citizens of Lyons, who had at first 6U])jwrted the movement, became alarmed at the excesses committed by the Convention, and withdrew their allegiance. An army of 60,000 men was, in con- sequence, sent against them, and, after a disastrous siege, the city was taken, and almost totally de- stroyed. It was rebuilt under Napoleon I., and though it has since frequently suffered from in- undations and from the riots of worknieii, it is now in a highly l)n>spcTous condition. Anumg tile numerous antitpii- ties in the Palais dts Heani Arts are the Hrmfjc Tables containing the speech made by Claudius, when Censor, in the !>enate (.\.i>. •Wi), on moving tliat the commu- nitii'S of (iallia Comata shouhl be admitted to the privileges of Koman citizenship. They are be;iutilully cut, and the letters are as sharp and as legible as if they had only just been engraved. They were discovered in 1.j-.^1{, on the heights of St. Sebastian. There are si'veral theatres: Le drand Thciitre, the principal one, stand- ing at the rear of the llotel-de- Ville. Leaving Lyons by the I'errache Termiims, we cross the Rhone, and pass, on the left, the branch- lines to Geneva and Grenoble. Heyond Cliasse (331 ^ miles) we see, at some distance on the right, the massive form of Moul-Pilat, and gome miles further we go through a tunnel cut through part of Mont-Salomon. Anotlier tunnel passes under a considerable por- tion of the town of Viknne ( 338. i miles) {Hotels: Ombru, du Louvre) ; population, ^3,000. This very ancient town, which was a j)lace of consequence before Lyons was built, stands on the left hank of the Rhone, in a valley enclosed by mountains. It con- tains numerous remains of Roman structures, the most striking of which is the Temple of Augustus and Livia, somewhat resembling the Muioon Carrie at Nimes. The Muieam contains several fine spe- cimens of sculpture, terra cotta, hi.c., which have from time to time been discovered in and about the town. The vestiges of a Roman theatre are to be seen on the side of Mount Pipet, and a little below it an obelisk of the 294 Route 63.— PARIS TO KICE, thasce. samp period. The Cathedral oj St. Maurice is an imposing edifice. Vienne was one of the first Chris- tian settlements of tlie west. We proceed along the valley of the Bhone, and, shortly after passing Taiii (373^ miles), obtain a view of Mont Blanc, through the valley of Isere. We pass, on the right, the castles of Chiiteaubiiuro- and Crussol, and arrive at Valence (384^ miles). Here is a fina Ca- thedral, a Citadel, and other public buildings, together with several Roman remains. The same de- scription applies to Monttlimar (412| miles). At Orange (444^ miles) we may observe an ancient Theatre, a Triumphal Arch, and part of the walls of a circus, all erected by the Roman invaders of Gaul. There is nothing worth particular mention between this place and Avignon (462^ miles) {Hotels: de I'Europe, de Luxem- bourg-, du L(mvre) ; population, 36,650. This venerable city, long the residence of the popes, stands on the left bank of tlie Rhone, and is surrounded by walls still in perfect preservation, except on the side next to the river, where the precipitous crags of the rocher des Doms serve as a sufficient de- fence. The Cathedra I, or Metro- politan Church of Nutre Dame des Dnms, founded about the twelfth century, is not attractive in its architecture ; the Chapel of the Resurrection contains an ancient marble altar, the paj)al chair, and a painting of the \''irgin, by Pra- dier. IV ear the cathedral is the Pafml Palace, dating from tlie fourteenth century. It is built in the style of a fortress, and has recently been used as a barrack, but it is now to be restored, and to form the residence of the bishop. The Museum, founded by Calvet, contains numerous antiquities, and a good picture gallery. There is another museum, specially de- voted to natural history. The city also contains the ruins of a Roman theatre and hippodrome, and seve- ral public buildings which call for no particular mention. Leaving Avignon nothing of any special interest is observed until we reach Arles (484J miles). (Hotels: du Nord, du Forum), population 26,600. Although a place of great antiquity, this is still an important town. The more ancient part consists of generally narrow, ill- built, and dilapidated streets. Jn its more modern districts, the houses are of better construction, the streets are spacious, and it is adorned with large and handsome squares ; the chief of which is the Place Royale, which forms a winter promenade, and is used also as a market-place. Its anti- quities are numerous. It pos- sesses an ancientobelisk,the largest monolith of granite in Europe, 55 ft. in height, which was found buried in the earth in a private garden, in 1339, and in 1675 was raised on a pedestal as a monu- ment in honour of Louis XIV. Many architectural relics of its former splendour exist, of which the most remarkable is the Am- PHiTHEATRK, whicli attests the great population and importance of the place in the age of the Romans. It is 459 ft. long by 338 ft. broad, exceeding that of IS imes by 92 ft. in length. This amphitheatre is in the midst of the city, and is a very striking object. (It is visible from the railway.) The cornice is entirely gone, quite down to the upper row of arches; but it has three Saracenic towers (or, as some suppose, they may have been erect- ed by Charles Martel) still stand- ing upon the wall; there were originally four. These towers FRANXE. Route 63.— PARIS TO MCE. 295 may bp 1,000 or 1,100 ypars old, aim tlifir jj^rciit n'j^i' is irulioiiti'd by the worn condition of tin' stairs, whicli wind spirally around in the interior. 'I'liis ani]diitlipatri' lias tinp corridors ; it iiad k) rows of seats, and was capablt; of holding 25,000 people. It consists of two stories of (JO arches, the lower Doric, the upper Corinthian. The blocks of which it is com- posed are of enormous thickness, wore vory accurately fittethe zeal of the early Christian bishops. Two columns are standing in place with their capitals. One column is comjiosed of a beautiful bn^cci- ated marble, and the stump of the alternate column is of the same ; tbey formed a part of the prosce- 296 Route 63.— PARIS TO NICE. FRANCE. nium. Rich friezes, entablatures, and broken columns, strew the ground. The seats were cut in the solid rock, and remain very perfect. Several frescoes and statues have been found here, and are preserved in the Miiseiun, together with many other objects of anti- quarian interest discovered in the neighbourhood. 'J he Cathedral of St. Trnpliinnis was founded in 601, on the site of a Roman pre- torium. Its principal gateway is of the twelfth century. Besides the Cathedral there are three churches, in one of which — that of St. Honore, — a series of ancient frescoes, analogous to those of Pom- peii, has been recently discovered. The other public buildings are the Hotel de Ville, tlie Cliamher of Commerce, IJbrarii, &c. A canal extends along the left bank of the Rhone from Aries to the port of Bouc on the JMediterranean. Leaving Aries, we sliortly after- wards traverse the plain called La Cruu (the Campus Lupideus of the Romans), a barren expanse cover- ed with stones, probably deposited there by the Rhone before it took Its present course. Near Saint Chamas (508 miles), we see on tlie right a Roman bridge of one arch, spanning the Touloubre, called the Pont Ftavien. Little else of in- terest arrests our attention before we arrive at Marseiiles (5362 miles) (Ho- tels: du Louvre et de la Pair, de Noailles, Grand Hotel de ]\lar- icilles, des Colonies); popula- tion, 302,650. This is the first seaport of France, and of the Mediterranean. Its harbour is formed by an inlet of tlie sea run- ning eastward into the heart of the city, and from its extent (nearly 70 acres) and its great natural advantages, it is capable of ficcommodatiag 1,200 vessels. The New Harbour consists of four docks or basins, divided by cross piers that allow vessels to pass from one into the other; and at each extremity of the series is an outer harbour, or Avant-port, opening to the sea. This series of basins extends upwards of a mile, with a width of 450 yards. The first dock, or Bassin de la Joliette, is the gi-eat rendezvous of steamers for all parts of the Mediterranean. It communicates with the sea by an Avant-port, and witli the Old Harbour by a narrow basin, or canal. Next comes the Bassin de I'Entrepot or du Dock, by the side of which are extensive warehouses and the dockyard terminus of the railway. Adjoining the northern Avant- port is the Bassin Napoleon, which accommodates the steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, and the larger sailing vessels. North of this is the Bassin Imperiale. The new docks cover a space of 430,000 square yards, and the Old Harbour 319,000, making altogether 170 English acres. The city of IVIarseilles com- prises the Old and the New town. The former, wljicli occupies the site of tlie ancient Greek settle- ment, JMassilia, is composed of narrow and dirty streets, bordered • witli crowded and ill-built houses. The new portion, which comprises nearly two-thirds of the whole, is equal in beauty to any town of France. Its streets are broad and straight, and its buildings remark- able for their elegance. It is sepa- rated from the old town by one of tlie finest streets in Europe. Towards the centre of the city, this street expands into a beau- tiful promenade planted with trees and adorned with fountains, and it here takes the name of the Grand Cours, FnANCE. lioute 63.— PARIS TO MCE. Z97 The Ilotil-dp Ville is a very Jiandsomc building'. The new Palace of Longrhainpx, standiiiEf upon tlio liill of Lon^champs, at the head of tlie avenue of the same name, is a Ijuihlin;:;, or series of huiUlinjjs, in the style of the Reiuiissance, composed of tlir(>e parts, joined hv colonnades in the Doric style of architecture. In the centre is the Cluiti'uu HTmu, under a triuini)hal arch, forming' an allegorical group of the three rivers — the Dit ranee, the Vigiie, and the BU — with hulls and tri- tons. On the north, or left side, as it is approached from the avenue, is the Museum of Fitie Arts; and on the south, or right, the Museum of Xatunil Hislorit. The terraces, garden, and monu- mental staircas<\s leading to tiiem, contribute to tlie attractions of the edifice, which is one of the most complete and striking to be found anywhere. Tlie cost of the buildings and decorations was 4,114,(J14 francs, or more than £-'00,000. iMarseilles has schools of medi- cine, hydrogra])hy, drawing, and music; five hos])itals; an obser- vatory; several learned societies; a large and admirable Lazaretto ; a public library of ()0,()()0 volumes ; a cabinet of natural history ; bo- tanical gardens ; and a picture- gallery. The Exdiange, a hand- some building, was erected 18.58- 60. The interior is arranged after tlie plan of the Paris Bourse. In front is a statue of I'uget, the sculptor. Southward of the town and harbour rises the hill of Xotre Dame cle la Garde, so called from the singular chapel on its summit standing within fortifications. It contains numerous relics, and is held in the highest veneration throughout the iNIediterranean by the sailors and fi.slu'rmen. The view from the hill of Notre Dame de la Garde embraces a wideextent of land.scape. IJem-ath the spectator lies the city of Mar- seilles, iinrtially encircled by rine- clad hills, dotted here and there with country houses, and the ])lue waters of the .Mediterranean stretch away to the far horizon ; while near the shore are clusters of small islands, on one of which, the hte d'lf, stands a castle, liie place of Mirabeau's imprison- ment. Leaving Marseilles, we pass no place of particular interest before arriving at Toui.oN (-42 miles). (Hotels: Croix de Malte, de la Croix d'Or). Population, 85,000. This imjiortant seaport town is on the shore of the ^lediterranean. It rises in the form of an amphi- theatre towards the north, where its ramparts extend to the foot of a chain of lofty hills, in part clothed with beautiful forests. It is defended by a fine citadel, and surrounded by double ramparts and a deep fosse. The Dockyard extends over 240 acres, and the floating docks over upwards of 80 acres. Belonging to the arsenal, — which is, perhaps, the finest in France — the chief obji'cts of at- traction are the sail-yard, the armoury, the museum, and the magazine. The Hotel-de-Ville is a handsome structure, facing the harbour. Toulon has no river, but several streams, descending from the neighbouring mountains, supply the tountains constructed in different parts of the town. Woollen cloth, hosiery, candles and leather, are the j>rincipal manufactures. There are also shin-building yards, dye works, and iron foundries, but its impor- tance is derived from its having long been one of the chief st;itions of the French Navy. Here is the most extensive prison in France, 298 Route 63— PARIS TO NICE. FUAXCE. La Bagne, in which the number of convicts is about 4,000. Toulon was occupied by the British in 1793, but was afterwards taken by the Republicans, and during its siege Napoleon I. commenced his military career before it. HvERiis (49 miles). (Hotels : lies d\)r, de I'OrientJ) Population 10,800. A favourite winter resort of invalids on account of its mild climate. At Les Arcs (84 miles) a branch line goes to Draguignan. At Frejus (99 miles), the ancient Forum Julii, we observe the re- mains of the Roman town, com- prising the quays, fortifications, sewers, baths, amphitheatre, aque- duct, &CC. CannIlS (120 miles). (Hotels: Grand, Bellevue,du Pavilion, Beau- site, du Soleil), population about 10,000. This well-known place is a seaport town, pleasantly situ- ated on the Mediterranean. It is famed for its salubrity, which has induced a number of English families to make it a winter resi- dence. The late Lord Brougliam, attracted by the beauties of the spot, took up his residence here, where he died on the 7th of May, 1868. The town has a trade in oil, fruit, and perfumery. It lias also fisheries of anchovies and sardines. It was at a place I5 miles east of this port that Aapoleon landed after his escape from Elba, on 1st March, 181."). [A pleasant excursion may be made from Cannes, by boat, to the lies de Lerins,m the bay opposite the town, the nearest being about four miles distant. The island nearest Cannes is the He Ste. Marguerite. It is covered with pine woods, and upon the summit is the citadel, built during the administration of Richelieu, enlarged by tlie Spaniards, and finally rebuilt after the plans of Vauban, In a range of cells, the solitary window of each of which looks towai'ds the coast, is the dungeon in which, for twelve years (1686 to 1698), the mysterious prisoner known as The Man with the Iron Mask was confined. The story of this prisoner, who was also confined in the Bastile and other prisons in the reign of Louis XIV., has long excited a romantic interest. One writer states that he was the Duke of A'ermandois, a natural son of Louis XIV., who, having given a box on the ear to his halt-brother, the Grand Dauphin, had to ex- piate it with imprisonment for life. Voltaire states that the prisoner was young and of a noble figure. In journeying from one prison to another, he wore a mask, and was at last transfen'ed to the Bastile, wliere he was treated with great distinction. Some writers have asserted that the prisoner was a young foreign nobleman, the cham- berlain of Queen Anne, and the real father of Louis XIV. The first authentic information with regard to the Iron Mask was given by the Jesuit Griftet, who was for nine years confessor in the Bastile. He brought for- ward the Journal of Dujonca, the lieutenant of the Bastile, according to which St. Mars arrived on the 18th September, 1698, from the lie Sainte-Marguerite, bringing with him, in a litter, a prisoner whom he had already had in cus- tody at Pignerol. The prisoner's name was not mentioned, and his face was always kept concealed by a black mask. The journal mentions his death in November, 1703, and that he was buried in the cemetery of St. Paul. This is confirmed by the register of burials for the parish of St. Paul's, wliere the prisoner is mentioned under the name of Marchiali. FRANXF. Route 63.— PARIS TO NICE. 299 Saint Aliclicl ])ul)li.slied a book in 1770, in w liicli lie rt-ltttrs the Story of tlie unfortunate beinfj, and points to a secret marriatre between Queen Anne and Cardinal IVIazarin. \\ hat is romarkablc is that the court continued to mani- fest an interest in the matter, and took every means to keep the identity of the prisoner in ttie dark. " W lien the Jiastile fell, the prisoner's room was eagerly searched, and also the prison re- gister; but all inquiry was in vain. The Abbe Soulaire endeavours to prove that the Iron ]\Iask was a twin brother of Louis Xl\'. A proi)hecy had announced disaster to the royal family from a double birth, anil to avoid this, Louis XIIL had caused fiie last born of the twins to be brought up in secret. Louis Xl\'. learned of bis brother's existence only after tiie deatl) of 31azarin, and the brother having discovered his re- lationship to the King by means of a portrait, was subjected to per- petual imprisonment. Among other curious things re- lated of the unknown prisoner is this: The officer who continiuilly attended him at the lie Ste. Mar- guerite having momentarily ab- sented himself, the prisoner hastily wrote several words upon one of the silver jdates upon which his dinner had been served, with tlie point of his penknife, and tlirew It from the solitary window of his cell info the sea. A fisherman seeing it fall st^-cured it and brought it to the Comniiuidant. He was at once eagerly questioned as to his ability to read, and having assured the officer in command that he could not do so, he was allowed to tlepart. A few days later his deatl body was found near the island. The island is now the place of confinement of about .50 Arabs, who have been sent there from Algeria by the French tiovem- ment for political ofl'ences. Among them are several chieftains, a bisho]), and other dignitaries. The commandant of the garrison per- mits visitors to inspect the (|uar- ters occujtied by the j)risoners. They live here in the same rude manner as ujion the desert plains of their own countiy. Many of them are men of gre.it intelligence, and imj)risonment has not de- stroyed the dignified and even haughty bearing of the chiefs. Thej- are greatly pleased with the attentions of visitors, whom they receive with great politeness, 'i'hey are allowed to roam at will about the fort. Several are very aged men, and two or three have been prisoners here for fifteen years. On the He St. Jlonorat are the ruins of a convent-churcli, now being restored, and baptistery, and a castle built in the tenth century upon Roman substruc- tions, consisting of a tower, and the ruins of a chapel. The island was purchased in 18.58 by the liislio]) of Frejus, who has esta- blished here a colony of monks of the order of St. Francis ] Passing Antibes (l'J7 miles), a bathing-place, which is rapidly increasing in importance, we reach Nice (140 miles), (Hotels: des Augliiis, Grand, Cntnide liretagite, d\liigleterre, Chattvin, de t'runce, l.memhourg, de la Mediierriinee, Roiiiil, de la Puix, de Nice), population, 51,000. Pensions : X ice abounds in excellent pen- sions, among which are Pension llivoir, INlillet, ^Marine Villa, and Anglaise. At Cimies, are the Pensions Villa Gerin, Villa Maria, \'illa A'isconti. Furn'nhid apartments, which are here let only 300 Route 63.— PARIS TO NICE. FRANCE. for tlie season, are to be found in every quarter of the town, at about the same prices as at Paris. Persons in delicate health should invariably consult a resident physician in the choice of locality. In cases of consumption, the best places of residence are considered Longchamp and Carabacel. Per- sons suffering from asthma gene- rally pi'efer Cimies. Persons in heaitli, who do not object to the strong sea breezes, and the piercing misintl, will find the neiglibourhood of the Promenade des Anglais, and Jardin Publique the most agreeable. Nice is pleasantly situated at the foot of an amphitheatre of lulls, covered with villas, gardens, and groves of olives and orange trees. The lofty range of the Alps ter- minates the pi-ospect on one side, and the Mediterranean on the other ; while, from tlie centre of the basin in which the town is placed, rises a steep and pointed rock, on whose summit stand the ruins of an old castle. The town consists of three principal parts, the New Town, the Old Town and the Fort. The old town retains its ancient appearance, the streets being crooked and not very clean. At its upper extremity is tlie Place Napoleon, a large quadrangle planted with trees. In this square is the Post Office. The Paglione separates the old from the new town, is generally dry, and pre- sents the ajjpearance of an enor- mous ditch of 100 yards in width. It is crossed by three bridges, tlie Pont Vieux, Pont Neuf, and the Pont Napoleon. The Place Mas- sena, now the busiest square in Nice, is at the north end of the Pont Neuf. From this place ex- tends the new Avenue du Prince Imperial, the R>ie iMassena, Quai Massena, and Quai St. Jean IJap- tiste. At tlie southern end of the Quai Massena is the Jardin Pub- lique, a fine square, in which, among other trees, are some beau- tiful palms. From tlie Jardin Pub- lique the Promenade des Anglais extends for a mile along the shore toward the west, skirted on one side by elegant villas and hotels. On this Promenade is the Casino, a new and magnificent establish- ment, containing a reading-hall and concert-rooms. The town pos- sesses few public buildings worthy of notice. Between the old town and the Port an insulated mass of limestone rises 800 feet above the level of the sea. On the summit are remnants of an ancient castle, whicli was destroyed in 1706 by the Duke of Berwick, a general of Louis XIV. From it an exten- sive view is to be had, which in fine weather includes the island of Corsica. The port of Nice ad- mits vessels drawing 15 feet of water. The entrance is difficult, and especially so in bad weatlier. It is to be considerably enlarged. Upon tlie northern side of the port stands the house in whicli Gari- baldi was born. The winter climate of Nice has attracted great numbers of strangers, both invalids and plea- sure-seekers. The increase in its population in the last ten years has been very rapid, and within tliat period many new streets have been opened, great numbers of new and fine houses built, and the attractiveness of the city and suburbs greatly improved. English and American Bankers, Avigdor and Son, 10, Place Na- poleon ; Branch Office, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, adjoining Hotel Chauvain. English Chemist and Druggist, Geo. Baker ( Pharmacie Daniel et Cie.), Quai Massena. Mr. Baker has establishments also at Geneva and Rome. Pleasant excursions may be FRANCE. Tloute 63.— PARIS TO NICE. tun made to Ciniics, about 3 niilt>s distant, wlKTf are the ruins of a Eoniau aiupliitlicatrt', 'ilO hy 175 ft., wliic'li was c-a])ubl»> of coiitaiiiiiig 8,.'ice. The north-west wind, or mistral, is little felt here, the town being protected by an amplii- theatre of mountains in the direc- tion from which it blows. It possesses fewer attractions for the pleasure seeker than A ice, but is preferable for persons seeking rest, and who desire to economise, the prices of the hotels and pen- sions, and the rent of lodgings being much more reasonable. A fine Casino, or club-house, with reading, ball, and concert rooms has recently l)een established. The scenery is verj' beautiful, and the country about abounds in tine drives. 302 Route 6i.— AVIGNON TO NIMES. FRANCE. Route 64. AVIGNON TO NIMES via THE PONT DU CARD. RAVELLERS proceed- ing southward from Paris, and intending to visit tlie Pont dii, Gai J and Nhnes, will find it most con- The Pont du Card is one of tlie most magnificent Roman remains in existence. It is formed of 3 tiers of arches, tlie lowest com- pi-ising 6, the middle, 11 of equal size, and the upper, 35. Above the highest tier is an aqueduct, of about 5 ft. in depth, roofed in with stone flags, which was for- merly employed to convey, from the vicinity of Uzes, the springs of the Eure and the Arian, a dis- tance of 25 miles, to N imes. The PONT DU GARD. venient to take a carriage from Avignon to the Pontdu Gard (18 miles), and go on from thence, 13 miles further, to Nimes. Those coming from Marseilles may pro- ceed from Tarascon to Nimes by railway, and cross from the latter place to Avignon via the Pont du Gard. Tourists should have a dis- tinct understanding with the driver before starting that he is to take them to the Pont, and not to stop at the inn at Im Foux, 2 miles dis- tant from it. Pont du Gard is 160 ft. high and 882 ft. long. Traces of the remainder of the atjueduct are to be seen at Maximin, near Uzes ; at St. Bonnet, on the way to Nimes, and elsewhere. When tliis stupendous work was con- structed is unknown. It is con- jectured to have been built by Agrippa, the son-in-law of Au- gustus, B.C. 19. There is nothing to attract at- tention on the road from the Pont du Gard to FRANCE. UoHteOi—AVlCXOX TO XIMES. 303 NiMES (Hotel: du Luieiiihoiir!^), population, ()(),'250. 'I'liis iiiiciinit and interestinin Europe erected since the middle ages. Its general plan is that of a Latin cross, with an apsidal east end, the west end terminating in three portals with lofty flanking towers. The Hotel de la Mairie, or Town-Hall, an edifice of the 15th century, has been recently restored, and is a very handsome building. The Palais de Justice, the Mint, and the Theatre, are also entitled to notice. The public library con- tains above 30,000 volumes. There are public walks along the ram- parts and quays; but tJie most agreeable are along the banks of the river. In front of the Mairie is placed a fine statue of the Maid of Orleans, executed by the Prin- cess Marie, daughter of Louis Philippe. Orleans is a place of great anti- quity, having been besieged by Attila in 450. In the middle ages it was the occasional residence of the kings of France. It has been the seat of ll church-councils, and has, since the middle of the 14th century, conferred the title of duke on the representatives of one branch of the Royal Family of France. In English history, it is chiefly known by the memorable siege which it sustained against the English in 1428, and in which the celebrated Joan of Arc acted so distinguished a part. On the 29th April, 1429, she threw her- self, with supplies, into Orleans, then closely besieged by the English, and from the 4th to the 8th of May, made successful sallies upon the besiegers, which resulted in their being compelled to raise the siege. In French history Orleans is further known for a siege sus- tained by the Protestants against TRANCE. Route 66.— rARIS TO BORDEAUX. sng tlie Catholics in 15(J3. This siege ■was remarkable for tiie death of tlie Duke of (iiiise, the first and most celebrated of the name. It was taken hy the Germans under Yon der '1 ann on October 11, 1«~(), retaken bv the French on November 5, and ajjain taken by the Germans on December 5, and held until the close of the war. Leavinij Orleans, we pass Meimg {79\ miles), and observe, on the left, about 3 miles distant across the Loire, the Church of Kvtre Dame de C/eri/, in which Louis XI. ■was buried. It is mentioned in Sir \\ alter Scott's " Quentin Diirward." At Iieini}:;eiicf^ (84§ miU^s), a conspicuous <)l)ject is the Donjon Tower, near file ancient castl<>, risinj;^ to a Jieiijlit of 11.") ft. It was erected in the lOth or 11th century. Meiiars le Chdleau (i)8,^ miles) derives its name from a chateau which belonged to Ma- dame de Pompadour. [Vichy may be reached from Orleans, though there is a shorter route from Paris by .Montargis and Xevers. AVe pass through a flat, uninteresting country to Vii.ii^oN JiNci ION (124 miles), by the Orleans and J^imoges Railway. About 9 miles beyond \'iiTzon is Mehiin siir i'tvi-e, near which we see the towers of the ancient castle in which Charles VII. re- sided up to the time of his death. We soon afterwards reach 1 Jov nc ks (114 miles), (Hotels: de France, Croix d'Or), population 30,'250. This is one of the chief arsenals of France. There are also a con- siderable number of cloth factories and smelting works. The Cothe- dnd of St. ^'Aieinie is one of the most beaut iful struct u res in France , dating originally from the 13th century. The bas-reliefs on the portals are very numerous and remarkably fine. The interior is Striking from the great number of its choice stained windows. The crypt contains some handsome monuments. The Uotel-de- V'tHe is a magnificent building. Hounialtjue, out- of the most renowned preachers of France, was a native of this place. At Saincaizk (lliO mili-s) we join the direct line from i'aris to \ichy. The remainder of tiif journey pre- sents no features of any interest. \'iciiv ('Jir miles), (Hotels: de la Pair, des Princes, des Bains, Guillermen, Momlirun, Britan- nique,dn Pare). Population5,87.5. 1 his fashionable watering-jilace is situated on the Allier, in a fine valley, surrounded by hills whose sides are clotiied with vineyard.s and orchards. It is visiti.-d by many thousands of invalids and others from all i)arts of Europe. The season commences in the middle of May, and ends in Oc- tober. The springs are both alka- line and acid. Their temperature ranges from 57° to 113" Fahr., but they vary very much in their qualities, and it is usual to consult a medical man as to the waters and baths to be taken. Tlie Casino contains reading and billiard- rooms, and saloons for balls, con- certs, and other entertainments. The Park, of 26 acres, aftbrds an agreeable promenade. Several fragments of ancient marble baths and Roman coins have been found in \'ichy and its neighbourhood, proving that the springs were resorted to during the Roman occupation of the countiy.] Bi.ois (11 If miles), (Hotel: d'.ingleterre), jiopulation 'JD, 000. This town has a remarkably fine situation on the slope of a hill, and is built chiefly on the right bank of the Loire, over which there is here a stone bridge of eleven arches, surmounted by an obelisk iu the centre. The streets, 310 Route 66.— PARIS TO BORDEAUX. FRANCE. for the most part, are crooked and narrow, but they are kept clean by water from the public fountains, which is supjjlied by an aque- duct, supposed to have been con- structed by the Romans. The principal public buildings are the Cathedral, the Jesuiu' College, and the Episcopal Palace. There is also a Botanic Garden, and a Public Library of 20,000 volumes. A fine quay lines eacli bank of the river. The Castle, richly de- corated in its interior, is celebrated as the birthplace of the Prince of Orleans, afterwards Louis XII., and as the scene of the deatli of Catherine de Medicis, and of the assassination of the Duke of Guise and his brother the Cardinal. The next place of in- terest is Tours (146f miles), (Hotels: de VUnivers, de Bordeaux). Popu- lation 41,100. It is situated iu a delightful plain, on the south, or left bank of the Loire, a little above its junction with the Cher. It is of an oblong form, and lies parallel to the course of the Loire, across which is here thrown a magnificent bridge of 15. arches, 1,400 ft. in length. The Rue Neuve, or Rue Royale is a street of great elegance, built on a uni- form plan, and traversing the city in a line with the bridge. The A venue-de-Grammont and the great walk called the Mail are also at- tractive. The Cathedral, parts C(f which date from the tliirteenth century, is remarkable for its lofty spires, its huge western vicindow, its fine painted glass, its ingenious clock, and its library. The interior is 256 ft. in length and 85 ft. in height. The Hc-tel-de- Ville, a fine structure, has a library of 50,000 volumes. Among the books is a rare copy of the Gospels, in gold letters on vellum (eighth century), upon which the kings of France took the oaths as first canons of the Churcli of St. Martin's. Two towers — the Tour de St, Martin, or de I'Horloge, and the Tour de Charlemagne — conspicuous objects in the town, are the only remains of the once immense Cathedi-al of St. Martin de Tours. Tlie principal manufacture of Tours is silk, which was intro- duced here earlier than in any otJier town of France by Italian workmen in the fifteenth century. From September 18 to December 11, 1870, the French Government, of which Garabetta was the lead- ing spirit, had its seat at Tours. About a mile to the west of the town is the castellated den of Plessis-les-Tours, of which an ad- mirable description is given in Scott's "Quentin Durward." [From this paint the tourist may conveniently reach Nantes (268;^ miles from Paris), (Hotels ; de France, des Colomes,du Ccmmercey, population, 114,000. A commer- cial city, about 27 miles from the mouth of the Loire, which is here crossed by a magnificent stone bridge, or rather a succession of bridges, extending in neai-iy a straight line for upwards of three miles. It possesses numerous striking and beautiful buildings, among v/Iiich tlie Cathedral of St. Pierre, containing the splendid monument of Francis II., the last Duke of Bretagne, and the old Castle, built in 938, the temporary residence of most of (he Kings of France since Charles VIIL, ara the chief. There is a public library containing 45^000 volumes, a botanical garden, theatre, a mu- seum of paintings, and a museum of natural history. Extending from the Erdre to the Loire is a fine promenade, planted with four rows of trees, bordered witli lines of palatial houses, and ornamented with s.tatues. The harbouXj up- FRANCE. lioute 66.— PARIS TO liORDKAUX, 311 wards of a mile in length, is ca- pable of accommodating ilOO ves- sels. Tlie chief manufactures are cotton and linen fabrics, flannels, refined sujjar, chemical products, cordage, &c. Nantes is noted for tl>e famous edict issued there in 159ii by Henri IV. in favour of Pro- testants, and also for the cruel excesses practised towards thou- sands of innocent persons during the time that Robespierre and his infamous confederates were the guiding sjiirits of the French Revolution.] Passing Chutelterault (189 miles), the seat of one of the most considerable manufactoriesof arms in France, we reach PoniKRS {'209 j miles), ( Hotels : de France, de I' Europe), popula- tion, .•>'-',0()0. The Cuthedral, the Church of NStre Dame, and others, the Palais de Justice, and the re- mains of a Roman amphitheatre, are the chief objects of interest ; but readers of history will remem- ber Poitiers as the scene of the great battle, fought in 1386 be- tween the French and English, when the latter, under Edward the Black Prince, gained a de- cisive victory, though their num- ber was barely one-fourth of that of the enemy's forces. Angouleme (280 miles), (Ho- tels: de la Paste, de France, du Palais), population, 25,000, is situated on a rocky eminence which rises to the height of 221 ft. above the Cliarente, at its con- fluence with the Touvre. The heights of the town are ascended by several flights of steps ; and the terrace, which occupies the place of the ancient ramparts, commands a beautiful prospect. The principal buildings are the Cathedral, a fine specimen of Roman architecture of the 12th century, the College, the Castle, the Chapel of St, Gelais, and the Palais de Justice. It also possesses a Librarii of 15,000 volumes. Its commerce consists chiefly in grain, wine, and brandy. It has also extensive j>apedient adopted by a Basque regiment during an engagement with the Spaniards in the neighbourhood, in 1523. Their ammunition being exhausted, the}- fixed their knives in the muzzles of thi-ir muskets, and so charged the enemy success- fully. About five miles from Bayonne and two miles from the main line, is BiAuiiiTz(//ot(;/i>; de France, de la Maison Rouge, dei Amhassa- deiirs), population, about 4,000. The climate is considered more bracing than that of Pau, and this circumstance, in conjunction witli its baths, and the beautiful scenery in its vicinity, ensures it a great number of visitors. The late I'^m- peror and Empress of the French liad a ciiiiteau here. Eiglit miles farther is St. Jean de Luz, the frontier town of France, situated at the mouth of the Nivelle. In the cluncli Louis XIV. was married to the Infanta of Spain in 1660. Six miles fiirther is Ilendaye, where baggage coming from Spain is examined. Through baggage registered to IMadrid is not examined at either the French or Spanish frontier custom houses. Eight miles far- ther is Iran, the first Sj)anish sta tion. The route from Irun to ^Madrid is described iu Route 138. 316 Bonte 67. —BORDEAUX TO TOULOUSE. trance. Route 67. BORDEAUX TO TOULOUSE, MONTPELLIER, AND MARSEILLES. (424^ miles. 1st class,7 6-S5 francs, 2nd, 57-25 francs ; 3rd, 41-60 francs). '■EAR Bigles (two miles), we see the remains of a Roman aqueduct, and at ViUenave-a'Ornon (3f miles), those of an ancient Roman temple. In the neighbourhood of St. Medard d'EyraMS (8| miles), is the Chateau de Montesquieu, in which the illustrious author of " I'Esprit des Lois " resided for some time, and where he died. At Beautiran (llj miles) are the vestiges of some Roman roads, and, in tlie vicinity, traces of Roman encampments. We pass, for several miles, through a dis- trict celebrated for its white wines. The first place worth mention- ing on our route is Agen (85 miles), (Hotel: du Petit St. Jean), population about 18,500. It is pleasantly situate on the right bank of the Garonne, and upon the side of the hill above tlie river. The Canal de la Garonne is here carried across tlie river by an aqueduct. Agen was called Age- dinum by the Romans,under whom the early Christians of the place were cruelly persecuted. A fine view is to be had from the summit of the hill rising above the town. Agen is celebrated for its plums, and the neighbourhood abounds with orchards of several kinds of fruit trees. The renowned scholar, Julius Scaliger, died and his son Joseph, " the prince ofscholiasts," was born here. It is also the birth-place of the celebrated Ber- nard Palissy. At Moissac (llOj miles), there is a beautiful abbey- church, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, supposed to have been built in the 7th century ; tlie porch and cloisters (of a later date than the church), are very interesting. Montauban(128| miles), (Ho- tels: du Midi, de I' Europe) is a town of about 26,500 inhabitants, situated on the right bank of the Tarn. The Cathedral, a building in the Italian style, contains two paintings by Ingres, a native of the place. Many of his works are to be seen in the collection pre- served at the HStel de Ville. From the Promenade of Les Terrasses, there is a magnificent view, ex- tending to the Pyrenees. In the town is a College for the education of Protestant minis- ters. jMontauban was early dis- tinguished for its zeal in the cause of Protestantism. On this ground it was besieged, but without suc- cess, by Louis XIII. in 1621, and Louis XIV. also subjected the in- liabitants to great persecutions at the instigation of Madame de Rlaintenon. Wool is extensively manufactured here. We next reach Toulouse (160§ miles), (Hotels : Souiille, de r Europe), population, 127,500. It is situated on the right bank of the river Garonne, and surrounded by ramparts, flanked with towers. The chief attractions of the place are the public promenades, the river, the quays, and the bridge over the Garonne, which is up- wards of 810 ft. in length, and connects Toulouse with the suburb of St. Cyprien; the Cathedral, con- taining the tombs of the Counts of Toulouse ; the Hctel-de- Ville ; the Church of St. Sernin, the oldest and most perfect of the ecclesias- tical edifices built in the Roman- esque style ; and the Musee, with its FRANCE. Route 67.— nURDEAUX TO TOULOUSE. 317 interestinr;: collection of antiqui- ties, currying the history ot" Art down from the Gallo-Itoman to the Renaissance period. The town also contains a Theatre, a Public Library of 60,000 volumes, a Uotanical Garden, and a Picture Gallery. The manufoctures consist of silks, woollens, leather, vermicelli, porcelain, cutlery, and pottery. There are also copj)er-works, dis- tilleries, and a cannon foundry. Toulouse is a place of ^reat anti- auitv, and rose to eminence under tue Romans, who adorned it with a Capitol, Amphitheatre, and otlier buildings, of which veslio^es still remain. The most memorable event in the modern history of Toulouse, is the defeat of the French under Marshal Soult, by tlie Brilisli under the Duke of Wellinjcton, in 1814. In earlier times, it was known as the only place in France where the Inquisi- tion was allowed to exist. The Convent of the Inquisition is now a school. Leaving Toulouse, we presently reach C.xstelnavuary (194 miles). This town was, for a time, one of the seats of the Inquisition. During the perse- cution of the Albigenses, it was taken by Simon de ^lontfort. It is noted for the great battle, fouglit in 1632, between Louis XI 11. and the Duke of Orleans. Caucas- SONNE (i?16j miles), {Hotels: Bernard, Bonnet),is a manufactur- ing town, with a population of about 22,200 inhabitants, situated on the Aude. It consists of an old and a new town. I'he former, or Cite, is fortified, and of very great antiquity. It was besieged, for a considerable time, by Simon de Monlfort, in 1210, and wasonly gained by treachery. It was also unsuccessfiillv assailed in 1356, by the Black Prince. The Church of St. Kazaire is mixed Romanestiue and Gothic. The interior is very fine, and con- tains some beautiful stained glass, sculptures, iscc. Tiie next place of interest is Nahdonne (2.53 miles), (I Intel: de France), poj)ulation 17,370. This town was called \arbo Mar- tius by the Romans, who made it one ot their earliest settlements in Gaul. There is reason to believe that it was known to the Greeks 500 years before tlie Christian era. The fortifications were con- structed by Louis XIII., who emj)loyed all the existing remains of Roman and Arabian masonry for the purpose. The H6tel-de- Ville, with its three ancient towers, is an interesting structure. It contains a museum of ancient sculptures, a good picture gallery, and a library. The Calhednil of St. Just is a fine Gotliic building of the 14th century still untinislied. It con- tains some handsome tombs and other sculptures, ivorj- carvings, il- luminated missals, and other trea- sures. Xarbonne is celebrated for its honey, which is largely ex- ported. Leaving \arbonne,we ar- rive at Beziers (169J miles), a town of about 18,000 inhabitants. The Cathedral is an ancient build- ing, and contains some old stained glass. In 1209 a frightful mas- sacre took place at Jieziers, in which 60,000 of the sect of the Albigenses were put to death. Near Agde (282 miles), towards the sea, is the Fie de St. Loup, an extinct volcano. Agde is a sea- port town of 9,650 inhabitants. It IS called the \'ille Noire from the dark coloured stone of wliich its houses are built. Citte (297 miles), (Hotels: Barillon, Grand Gaillon), population 26,240. This prosperous seaport town was esta- blished by Louis XIV. It has a good harbour with two piers, 318 Route 67.— BORDEAUX TO TOULOUSE. france. respectively 1,600 and 1,900 ft... long. The place is renowned for the manufacture of all kinds of wines by judicious blending and adulteration. There are also nu- merous saltworks. The voyage to Marseilles by steamer takes about 10 hours. Between Cette and Aigues Mortes are several lagoons protected by stone dykes, and a canal runs through them. The ruins of the Church of Maguelonne, on an island beyond the lagoons, are curious. Soon after leaving Cette we pass Frontigvan (30(5 miles), celebrated for its Muscat and other sweet wines, and sliortly afterwards reach, MoNTPELLiER (314^ miles), {Hotels: Nevet, du Midi, de Loii- dres), population 57,000. This place has freciuently been men- tioned as remarkable for its salu- brity, aud, on that account, re- commended to invalids, but the climate is extremely ti-ying from the alternation of gTeat heat and bitter cold, which is its chief cha- racteristic, and the dust is ex- tremely troublesome. The Promenade du Peyrou, is a terrace walk, agreeably sheltered by avenues of trees, and com- manding an extensive view. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV., and at one end is the Chdteau d'Eau, a reservoir supplied by a fine Aqueduct which crosses the valley by 53 arches, over which are 183 smaller ones ; the length of the structure being 965 yards. Tiie Gate, erected in honour of Louis XIV., is adorned with bas-reliefs representing the Revocation of the Edict of N antes, and the connection of the Medi- terranean with the Atlantic through the great Canal du Midi. The Jardin des Plantes was one of the first of the kind established in France. It contains a tablet to the memory of Mrs. Temple (" Narcissa"), adopted daughter of the poet Young, who was for a time buried here. Dying sud- denly at Alontpellier, she was re- fused Christian burial, in conse- quence of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and her remains were deposited here. The poet alludes to the circumstance in a passage of his " Night Thoughts," commencing, " Snatch'd ere thy prime ! and in thy bridal hour ! And when kind fortune with thy lover smiled ! And when high-flavour'd thy fresh opening joys ! And when blind man pronounced thy bliss complete ! And on a foreign shore where strangers wept ! * * » » » » Denied the charity of dust to spread O'er dust ! a charity their dogs enjoy." The chief public buildings are the Palais de Justice, the Ecole de Medecine, containing a fine col- lection of anatomical preparations, a good library, and a series of portraits of tlie professors since 1289, including the celebrated Rabelais; the Musee Fabre, con- taining a remarkably good picture gallery, with paintings by Raphael, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other re- nowned artists ; and the Bihiio- thtque Fabre, containing 15,000 volumes, which once formed the library of Alfieri. Montpellier has considerable chemical and dye-works, aud also cotton manufactures. We next reach Lunel (328f miles) which derives its impor- tance from tlie brandy and sweet wines of the neighbourhood. NiMEs (345| miles). For de- scription of Nimes, and the re- mainder of the journey to Mar- seilles, see Route 64. BELGIUM. ROUTES. Ronte Page 68. Brussels to Antwerp and rottehdam . • 320 69. Brussels to the Field OF Waterloo . . . 323 Route Page 70. Brussels to Ghent AND Ostend . . . 32.T 71. liiu'ssELs TO Cologne . 329 72. BiiussKi.s to >i"ami'r AND Treves .... 331 ELGIUM, esta- blislied as a Euro- j)ean state in 1830, tliouijh one of the smallest, is one of the most active and thriving countries of Europe. Upon the north it is bounded by Holland, upon the east by a por- tion of Prussia, and on the south by France. Its greatest extent, east and west, is about 160 miles, and north and south about 115 miles. The area of the country is 11,366 English square mdes. These comparatively straitened limits, however, comprehend within them an industrious, thriving, and contented popula- tion, by whom the natural re- sources of their country have been developed to the best ad- vantage. The kingdom is divided into nine provinces, the population of which, as given in the official enumeration of December 31, 1866, were as follows : Antwerp, 474,llo ; Brabant, 820,179 ; East and West Flanders, 1,M1,.581 ; Hainault, 847,775; Liege, 556,666; Limburg, 199,856 ; Luxemburg, 196,173; Namur, 302,719— Total, 4,839,094. The ratio of the population of Belgium to its geographical area gives 430 ])er S(|uare mile, showing the kingdom to be more densely iidiabited than any other country in Euroiie. About 58 per cent, of the inhabitants are Flemish, the rest Walloon and French, with rather more than 30,000 Germans in the provence of Lux- emburg. The larger part of Belgium is level, and the country belongs, as a whole, to the great plain which stretches over so large an extent of the European continent. The south-eastern provinces are hilly, and the ground rises gradually into the wooded tract of the Ar- dennes, situated beyond the eastern banks of the River JMeuse, and which forms a portion of the ancient forest of Ardennes. From tliis region the general slope of the country is to the west and north-west, and all the rivers flow accordingly in that direction. Towards the sea, Belgium ex- hibits an almost perfect level, ex- ce])ting immediately along tlie coast, where there occurs a tract of sand-hills or downs, varj-ing from one to three miles in breadth, and about 50 or 60 ft. in height. 320 BELGIUM. BELGIUM. These downs are in some places thickly covered with pine trees. Belgium has two considerable rivers, the Meuse and the Scheldt, besides a great number of smaller streams. The whole country is well -watered, and contains a large extent of river-navigation. Nearly a fifth part of the entire surface of the country is covered with wood. Many portions of tlie forest are here still in their natu- ral state, and afford shelter to the wolf and the wild boar. They consist chiefly of oaks, which often attain a great size, and sup- ply large quantities of valuable timber. The climate of Belgium bears a considerable general resemblance to that of England, but is subject to greater extremes of heat and cold. It is, however, temperate, healthy, and agreeable. The mineral produce of Bel- gium is rich and varied, and, next to its abundant agriculture, constitutes the chief source of its national prosperity. The pro- vinces in which these mineral treasures are most abundant are Hainault, Namur, Liege, and Luxemburg. They include coal, iron, lead, copper, zinc, marble, limestone, slate, &c. But most of these products are insignificant compared to the superabundance of coal — from anthracite to the richest gas-coal — and iron, in both of which Belgium ranks next to England. Money. The currency of Belgium has the same coins and divisions as the French, except that the Bel- gian includes a piece of 2f francs. Their small coins, 5, 10, and 20 centimes, are made of Nickel. French money is current in all parts of Belgium. Route 68. BRUSSELS TO ANTWERP AND ROTTERDAM. To Antwerp, 27^ miles ; 1st class, 3'50 francs; 9.nd, 2'65 francs; 3rd, 1-75 francs. EAVING Brussels from the Northern Railway Station, we see, on the left (3 miles), the Palace of Lacken, a residence of the King of the Bel- gians. The gardens are beauti- fully laid out. The cemetery of Lacken contains the tomb of Ma- dame Malibran. From this place to Brussels, a distance of 3 miles, a long avenue of trees extends, called the AlUe Verte. Vilvorde (6f miles) is noted as the place where Tindal, the translator ot the Bible, underwent martj^rdom. The prison in which he was con- fined is now a Penitentiary. There are a great number of fine hop- gardens in this neighbourhood. We next reach Malines, or Mechlin (13 miles), {Hotels: de Brabant), po- pulation, 33,000. This ancient and once important manufacturing town, dates from the 5th century, when its site is said to have been washed by the sea, from which circumstance its name (maris linea) is conjectured to have been derived. It is now situated upon the Dyle, an affluent of the Scheldt, into which it falls at some distance above Antwerp. It is the religious metropolis of Belgium, and is no longer known for the manufactures for which it was once famous, except that of lace, which, however, has greatly fallen ofl', of late years. The BELGIUM. Tl,mte6a.— BRUSSELS TO AXTnilUP. 321 Cathedral of St. Uomlmul is the most rcuiiirk.-ible of the j)uhlic edifices in M alines, and was built between \M\6 and 1 187 ; the tower, intended to bear a lofty spire, beinj,' ,"vt8 ft. hij^h. It con- tains the mausolea of many arch- bishops, and ]>aintinf!;s by A an Dyck, Miciiael Coexie, and otlier ^ood masters. In till' Church of Xotre Dame is the famous " Miraculous Urauglit of Fishes " by Rubens, and other g^ood paintings. In the church of St. John, the grand altar is adorned with his " Ado- ration of the .Majji," ^" Ueliead- ing: of St. .lohn the 15apt:st," and " Martyrdom of St. Jolin the Evangelist." There are also seve- ral works bv other masters. The Ilr,iel ile Ville, Les Halles, and other ancient buildings are in the Grande I'laci', in the centre ofwhidi is a statue of .Margaret of Austria, daugiiter of the Em- peror i\laximilian, and aunt of Charles V. Antwkiu' ('28 miles), (Hotels; DE l'Eiropk,* St. Antoiiie, vi: la Pais,* Chand Laboreur), popu- lation 12(j,.500. This is the chief commerciiil city of IJelgiiim, situ- ated on the Kiver Scheldt, which is here about one-fourth of a mile wide, with an average depth of 30 ft. Its commerce is very great, having increased with astonishing rapidity for the last 20 j-ears. It seems likely to recover, in some measure, the prosperity and splen- dour which it enjoyed in the 16th century, when it is said to have contained 200,000 inhabitants, and was the richest commercial city in Europe. It owes its revived i)ros- perity to Napoleon I., who spared no expense in deepening the river, enlarging the harbour, and strengtiiening the fortifications. He expended 2,000,000 i)Oun(Is Sterling: iu the coustructioa of docks, dockyards, and basins. Thi? latter (jidy remain, tiie former having been demolished alter his downfal. The great basin has an area of 17 acres, the small one of 7 acres. I l\ey have been con- verted into commercial docks, and are lined with spacious ware- houses. The harbour thus formed is one of the finest in the world, and admits the largest vessels. The city was formerly sur- rounded by walls, and was also defended by a citadel erected by the Duke of Alva in 1.568. The walls have been removed, and their place occui)ied by streets and boulevards, and new fortifica- tions in the form of detached forts, have been built at some distance from the town. The general ap- pearance of Antwerp is highly picturesque, owing to its numer- ous churches, convents, fine public buildings, and the antique-looking houses of the older thoroughfares. Its streets are generally tortuous and irregular. The principal one, called Place de Meir, is one of tlie finest streets in Europe. First among its public buildings stands the CATHi-nuAr, of XotreDame, the largest and most beautiful speci- men of Gothic architecture in the kingdom. It was commenced about the middle of the 13th century, and more than 80 years were re- quired to finish it. All but the tower and choir were burnt in 1533. The workmanship of the exterior is very elaborate and de- licate. The interior is remarkable for its imposing simplicity'. Sin- gular discrepancies exist in the written statements as to the height of the spire, it being variously stated from 366 to 466 ft. (Brad- shaw states it at 492 ft.) The best authorities give the height at 40.5 ft. Its length is about .iOO ft., and its breadth 2.>0ft. Irs chief at- traction is the celebrated painting 529 Route 68.— BRUSSELS TO ANTWERP. Belgium. by Rubens, "The Descent from tlie Cross," wliich is generally considered bis master-piece. In the op])osite transept is the " Ele- vation of the Cross," also by Ru- bens, and, over the high altar of the choir, is his famous painting, "The Assumjition of tlie Virgin," In one of the chapels south of the choir, is another painting by Ru- bens, "The Resurrection.'" Every morning, except T''urs- days, from 9 to 12, curtains are drawn over these pictures, which are withdrawn atl o'clock; but admission to the church can then be had only by ticket, which can be obtained at the door for 1 franc. A visit to the tower of the Cathedral costs, for one person, 75c., for two persons,! franc, and for three or more persons, 1'50 francs. In the exterior base of the tower is a memorial stone to Quintin Matsys, the painter-blacksmith, one of whose works in the latter capacity — some ornamental iron- work over a draw well — is in the immediate vicinity. From the top of the spire, whose elegance and beauty cannot be too much com- mended, a view over an immense tract of country may be obtained. The carilUm, or chimes of this church are very much admired. The puljjit is by ^^erbruggen, and the carved oak stalls of the choir by Geerts. The Chnrcli of St. .Jacques, of the 15th century, is a fine struc- ture, and naturally visited as the burial-place of Rubens. In a chapel named after him, lies the artist with his two wives, and some of his descendants. Over the altar is a picture of the Virgin and the Iniant Jesus by Rubens, into which lie has introduced portraits of his father, himself, and his two wives as saints, and of one of his eons as an angel. There are many other pictures by Van Dyck and otlier great Flemish masters. Ad- mission, from 12 to 4, one franc each. The internal decorations of this church in fine marbles, stained glass, and wood carvings, are superior to those of the cathedral. The Church of St. Paul, of the 16th century, contains some good wood carvings ; the principal altar in marble, crowned by a figure of St. Paul by Verbruggen ; the " Flagellation," and an " Adora- tion of the Shepherds," by Ru- bens ; " Christ ascending Cal- vary," by Van Dyck ; and other paintings and sculptures. In an enclosure at the side of the church is a model of Calvary with figures of the Saviour, saints, angels, &c., and an imitation of the Holy Se- pulchre. The contents of the other churches may be very briefly in- dicated as follows : — in the church of St. Charles Borromeo, a few pictures, and some good sculptures of Arthur Quellyn ; in the church of St. Andrew, three pictures of Erasmus Quellyn, a pulpit of curious design, and, upon one of the pillars, on a small monument in marble to her memory, a por- trait of Mary Queen of Scots, falsely attributed to Van Dyck ; in the chui'ch of St. Augustine, over the great altar, the " Mar- riage of St. Catherine," by Ru- bens, other pictures by Van Dyck, Jordaens, and Spierings, and a pulpit by Verbruggen ; in the chui-ch of St. Anthony of Padua, the " Virgin handing the Infant Jesus to St. Francis," by Rubens; and the " Saviour dead upon the knees of the Virgin," by Van Dyck. The Museum of Paintings is in an old convent adopted, and partly rebuilt for its present purpose. Admission : 1 franc, from 9 to 5 in summer : from 9 to 4 in winter. BELGIUM. R.'ute GS.—RRUSSELS TO AXTUTUP. 323 In it .are iiicturcs hy Rubens, Quintiu .Mulsys, \'iiii Dytk, and all tin; principal painters of the Flemish school, oi which an ex- cellent catalof^ue, with ainj)le cri- tical and bio<;ra])hical information (in French), may be bought on the spot. There arc in the town several private collections of j)aintinf^s, to which admission may be readily obtained. The jjrincipal jmblic places are Grand Place, in which is the HGlel de Ville (tiie large frescoes in the reception -hall are very fine), and several j)icturcsque old houses, formerly belonoing- to different fjuilds; the Placede Meir, where the King's I'alace is situ- ated; the Place Verte, the old cemetery of the Cathedral, where the colossal statue of Rubens, by Geefs, was inaugurated witli mucii ceremony, on thesecond centenary of his decease, in 1840, and wJiere the merchants principally^ congre- gate for business at stated times, pending the building of their new Exchange. The old JJourse was burnt down in 18.58. The street in which Rubens resided and died, is named after him. The Zoolo»ical CUirdeus, and the Park, afford very pleasant pro- menades. Jn addition to Matsys, and Van Dj'ck, already mentioned, Ant- werp has produced the following painters of celebrity : Jordaens, the younger Teuiers ; Gasjjard de Craj'er ; and Denis Calvart, the master of Cniido Reni. The celebrated Antwerp black and other silks are produced in perfection by \'an Beilingen and Suremont, No. 9, iMarche au Linge, whose looms are shown to visitors. Van iNIol-Von Ley, bookseller, IVIarche aux Souliers, publishes an excellent Guide to Antwerp. The distance from Antwer]» to Rotterdam by Railway to .Moer- dyk and tlionce by steamer, is 59 miles. ']"inie 4.^ hours. Fares 1st clusi, 10-10 francs ; '2nd, T'ilO francs ; '.ird, i 9:} francs. The route as far as the frontier of Holland, ilsichen (17 miles), and in fact all the way to Moer- dykjisover a flat and uninteresting country. The Dutch Custom House is at kiMsendaal ('J,'3 miles). At ^NIoERDYK (36 miles) passengers take a steamer for Rotterdam, 2f hours. A short stoppage is made at DoiiT, one of the oldest towns in Holland. Population, 'Jl.OOO. Jt was originally the residence of the Counts of Holland, and in 1.572, the first meeting of the states- general was held here, at which the independence of the seven united ])rovinces was declared. The princijjal public buildings are the town liall and the old Gothic church, 300 ft. in length and loO ft. in width. 'Jhe enormous timber rafts from the Upper Rhin6 are brought here for sale. 'Jhe city is now situated upon an island, the great inundation of 1 1'Jl, in which u[) wards of seventy villages were destroyed and 100,000 people drowned, having separated it from the mainland. For description of Rotterdam see Route 73. Route 69. BRUSSELS TO THE FIELD OF WATERLOO. *— 14 r-rirf^IlIS excursion may be M^\ ' "ti^ made either with a car- rSj '^jzj riage or by the coach, ^■r—zi^ which leaves Brussels every morning, calling for pas- sengers at the principal hotels. 324 Route 69.— BRUSSELS TO THE BELGIUM. A coacli from the stand will cost less than one engaged from a stable, but the horses are not so good, and frequent attempts at imposition, such as setting travellers down at the village of Waterloo instead of at Mont St, Jean, are made. The distance is ten miles, time required for the excursion about seven hours. The road lies through the forest of Soignies. The view of Brussels, before the entrance of the forest, is much admired ; but after this nothing but a wood presents itself for seven miles, occasionally re- lieved by scattered hamlets. The traveller emerges from the forest near the village of Waterloo^ where he will pause a moment to read the tablets in the little chui-ch, the affectionate tributes of their sur- viving companions to the memory of a few of those " who gloriously fell in the battles of Quatre Bras and Waterloo." Wellington's head quarters before and after the battle were here in the Post House op- posite the church. A little over a mile from Water- loo is the hamlet of Mont St. Jean, containing nothing remarkable to attract the attention of the tourist. At this place the road is divided. The branch on the left conducts to Jemmapes, and that on the right to Nivelles. Half a mile in ad- vance of the village is the farm house of Mont St. Jean, on the road to the farm of La Haye Sainte, and in the immediate rear of tiie British position. Pursuing the first named road and passing by the farm of Mont St. Jean the forest disappears, the road sud- denly rises and an easy ascent leads to a kind of ridge. This ridge and the ground behind it were occupied by the British army. Many objects remain to enable the tourist to form a correct idea of the positions of the two armies, and the very places on which the various scenes of this memorable contest were enacted. On the top of the ridge formerly stood a soli- tary tree ; it was removed by order of the Duke of Wellington, and converted into several articles of household furniture to adorn Wa- terloo Hall at Apsley House. This was the centre of the Britisli posi- tion, and the Duke of Wellington was posted near this spot during the greater part of the day. Tlie British lines extended along the ridge to the right and left, de- fended on the left by a hedge which stretches from Mont St. Jean to- wards Ohain. On the extreme right, following the natural direc- tion of the ridge, they turned back towards Brussels, and were pro- tected by a ravine. In front is a valley, not regularly formed, but with numerous windings and hol- lows. It varies in breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This was the scene of the conflict. The opposite ridges, running parallel to Mont St. Jean, were occupied by the French. A little in front of the spot where stood the Wellington tree, and close by the road, is La Haye Sainte, the object of the second attack in the middle of the battle. The back part of the building was much shattered by the cannon and mus- ket balls, and the interior wit- nessed the most dreadful carnage. Near this farm also took place the conflict between the Imperial Guards and the British, which decided the fate of the day. To the right, and in the centre of the valley is Hougoumont, a farm- house, the orchard of wliich was surrounded by a wall. The French made a desperate attempt to get possession of it in order to turn the English flank, but were repulsed after great slaughter on both sides. On the left is the farm of Ter-la- BELGIUM. FIF.T.D OF WITKRLOO. 335 Hay, where the f^ound, hecomin^ woody and irrejjiilar, presenled a stronjj position tor tlie termina- tion of the IJritisli lims. On the road to ( 'liarh-roi, and on tlie ridjjje fxactly oojiositc to the Britisli c-catrc is La B.Ue Alliance, now an inn. It was tlie j>osition of Bonaparte durinjj: the greater part of the engajjceinent. Between l.a Helle Alliance and La Haye Sainte, are two monu- ments ; one to tlie memory of Sir A. Gordon, and the other to some officers of the German Le- gion. Lion Mount. This is a vast accumulation of earth beneath which lie, indiscriminately heaped tofjether, the bones of the slain — friends and foes; a flight of steps leads to the top, from whence an extensive view is obtained. It is surmounted by the fi-jure of a lion, of cast iron, intended to stand over thespot wherethe Prince of Orange was wouniled. It was in front of and on each side of the spot, now covered by this mound, that the desperate charges of the French cavalrj' were made, just before the appearance of Bliicher with liis Prussians. IMuch controversy has arisen as to the numbers engaged on each side in the battle of Waterloo. Thebest authorities fi.x thestrength of tlie French army at from 72,000 to 74,000, that of "the allied army at 69,89 1, of which 25,389 were British troops. The loss of the French army in killed iiiid wounded, was 18,500, taken i)risoners 7,800. The loss of the Allies was 23,185. Route 70. BRUSSELS TO GHENT, BRUGES AND OSTE.XD. 78 miles; first class, 6 francs; se- cond, 4 francs ; third, 3 francs. iRAA'IXG Brussels from the Northern Railway Station, and passing Lacken and Dender- leeuw Junction, we reach A lost (18 miles), {Hotel: I'a>is Bus), a town of 18,500 inhabitaiits, on the river Dender. In the unfinished church of St. .Martin is the picture by Rubens of St. Roch interceding with our Saviour to stay the j)lague at this place. Passing several jilaces of no interest we reach Ghknt (36 miles), (Hotels: lioml, de la Poste), population 176,500. This is the chief city of East Flanders, situated in a fine plain at the confluence of the Scneldt and the L^-s. It is of groat anti- (]uity, and under the Spanish do- minion was one of the greatest cities in Europe. It early ac(iuired a reputation for its cloths — the wool for which was in great jiart supplied from England — and re- tained it until a comparatively late period. The arrogant and turbu- lent disposition which seems al- ways to have characterized opulent and flourishing Flemish commu- nities soon manifested itself here ; and was the cause of the continued tumults and troubles, of which its eventful history consists. After a long decadence, its trade and manufactures considerably re- vived under the government of William I., who was inaugurated here, as King of the Netherlands, in 1815; and in 1830, at the time of the separation from Holland, it 326 Route 70.— BRUSSELS TO GHENT. BELGIUM. was the first mauufacturing town in the country. No two names of their period stand out more pro- minently in history as popular leaders, than those of two of its citizens — Jaques Van Artevelde, " the Brewer of Ghent," who was murdered in 1344, through sus- picion of his designs ; and his son, Philip Van Artevelde, who was killed in the battle of Roosebtke, in 1382, fighting- at the head of the Gantois against the French, and Louis de Maele. The Cathedral Church of St. Bavon, is one of the grandest and finest in Belgium ; and the great height of its nave, rising above all the otlier buildings of the town, makes it the most conspicuous ob- ject for many miles round. The crypt dates .from 941 ; the nave from 1228 ; the choir from 1274 ; and the tower from 1534. The tower wasreducedbyafirein 1603 from its original height of 365 ft. to 272 ft. Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, held a chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece in it in 1445 ; and Philip II. of Spain held another in 1559, of which memorials remain in the escut- cheons of the knights, under the windows of the choir. The most prized picture here, is the " Lamb," the chief work of tlie brothers Van Eyck, the first painters in oil, who were born here, and are buried in the crypt. There are 24 chapels in the church, the brass gates of which are highly ornamental ; in one of them is a Rubens, " St. Bavon received in the Abbey of St. Amand." There are many other paintings and sculptures of great merit. The pulpit is parti- cularly worthy of notice. Next in interest to the Cathedral are the churches of St. Michel, commenced in 1440, and finished in 1480 ; and St. Peter, rebuilt in 1629; in both of which are some good pictures. The other churches are of far inferior in- terest. There are some pictures of merit to be seen in the Museum, or Academy of Design, Rue St. Marguerite. The Belfi-y Tower, 280 ft. high, is ancient, having been commenced about 1183. The spire was placed upon it in 1855, when it was re- paired. It is surmounted by a large copper-gilt dragon, as a weathercock, said to liave origin- ally performed the same functions on a church in Constantinople, from which place it was brought to Bruges, as a present from the Emperor to Baldwin, Count of Flanders. It was brought from Bruges by P. Van Artevelde as a trophy, when he sacked that town in 1382. In this tower was the bell " Roland," spoken of by Longfellow : " Saw the fight at Minne-nater, sawthe White Hoods moving west. Saw great Artevelde victorious scale the Golden Dragon's nest. Till the bell of Ghent resounded o'er lagoon and dike of sand, 'I am Roland! I am Roland! there is victory in the land!'" The Gravensteen, the residence of the Counts, was sold in 1779, and turned into factories. The old entrance alone remains. The Hotel de Ville, begun in 1481, and only finished about 1600, has two facades in very diffei'ent stj'les, the one in the richest flam- boyant Gothic, and the other in tliat of the Italian Renaissance. The Palais de Justice, the Uni- versttif, and all the other public buildings are modern. The canal to Terneusen, origin- ally designed by Napoleon on a large scale, and executed in two years under the Dutch go vera- BELGIUM. Route 70.— BRUSSELS TO GHENT. 327 meat, brings vessels of consider- able size to tbe town, it was opened in IK'JH; and sbips draw- ing 18 ft. water discharge in tlie basin at Cilient. The principal promenade is the Coupure, or cutting, along the canal, dug in 1738, to unite tlie River Lvswitli the Bruges Canal. llie principal j)ul)lic places are the Maiclit da I eiidredi, and tlie Kouter, or Place d' Amies. The Marchedu \'endredi is full of historic reniiniscriui'S. ilrre took place, in l.'vlo, the sanguinary trade tight between the weavers anil fullers of the town, when 500 of them were killed ; the procla- mation of P. \'an. Arte velde as Cap- tain of the Commune in 1,'>81 ; the inauguration of the Counts of Flanders ; the executions oi' the Ministers of .Mary of Burgundy; and later, the burnings of heretics by the Holy ln(|uisition under Alba. In a passage near the mar- ket is a very curious ancient piece of artillery, of great size, vulgarly called "fhe \Vonder of Ghent," or " Mad Margaret" {Marguerite enra^ce). The Kouter is situated in thr best quarter of the city, and is surrounded by tine houses, and planted witli lime trees. On Sun- days and festivals, it is used in the morning as a flower-market. The numerous canals which in- tersect the town in many direc- tions, dividing it into islands, are crossed by nearly 100 bridges, in stone and wood. John of Gaunt, son of Edward III., founder of the Lancastrian branch of the Plantagenets, and Charles V. were born here. The great convent, Bi^uigtwgey is well worth a visit, in one of its houses is a fine head of tlie Saviour by Rapliael. BRUGts {64. miles). Hotels: de Flandres, du Commerce), popula- tion, 52,200. The chief town of \\ est Flanders, situated at the junction of the (Jstend, Ghent, and _ Kcluse c:inals. it is tra- versed by the first of these, which is wide and deep enough for large sea-going ships. It is a very ancient place, and was so rich, flourishing, and distinguished for the lu.\ury of the a})parel of its .^^ ^ I ^3 '^'^ ' " BELFRY OF EUUCiES, inhabitants, that when it was visited in 1301 by the King anil Qiie(>n of France, the latter, in reference to the dresses of the ladies, observed, " I thought my- self the only queen liere, but" I see a thousand about me." Under the House of iiurgundy it became the centre of the commerce of northern Europe, in 1486 it is said to have had i!00,000 inhabi- 328 Route 70.— BRUSSELS TO GHENT. BELGIUM. tants, and that 150 foreign vessels entered its basins in a single day. It owed a great deal of its wealth to its clotli trade. All this pros- perity declined in the civil wars of the 15th century, and was finally eclipsed by that of Ant- werp ; the city has, nevertheless, preserved many evidences of its ancient grandeur. The Cathedral church of St. Sauveur was built in 1185, upon the site of an older one, destroyed by fire in 1127; the side chapels of the choir of tliis one having also been destroyed by fire in 1358, have been rebuilt in a later style. A fire in 1839 completely destroyed the interior of the tower and its covering. The square tower which rises to the height of the nave is in the Norman or Romanesque style, but its two ujjjjer stages were added in 1843, from designs of Messrs. Chantrell (anEnglisli architect), and Bucky. It contains many works of art, two monumental brasses, dated 1423 and 1515, and tlie blazonries of the knights of the Golden Fleece, who attended a chapter hereinl478. The church of Noire Dame is equally ancient, but more I'emark- able for its contents than for its architecture. Its lofty tower and spire serve as a laad-mark to mariners. It contains some paint- ings, a celebrated group in marble of the Virgin and the Infant Jesus, ascribed to ^Michael Angelo ; and in a side chapel of the choir, the tombs of Charles the Bold, and his daughter, Mary of Bur- gundy. The effigies of botli are made of copper ricldy gilt, and repose upon slabs of black marble, but that of Mary is by fiir the most elaborate and beautifully finished. Around the sides are 36 riclily enamelled coats of arms, arranged on the branches of a genealogical tree, supported by figures of ani- some beautiful mals. In the Hospital of St. John are the pictures of JMemling, born here about 1425, which are the pride of the town. In the Chapel of St. Basil, or du Saint Sang, is a silver-gilt reli- ' quary, contahiing the drops of Christ's blood, whicli give one of its names to the cliapel. The Hotel de Ville, founded by Louis de Rlaele, in 1377, is a very light and elegant edifice, and has a good timber roof in the large hall, which serves as the library. Les Halles is an ancient build- ing, dating from 1280, in which year its predecessor was burnt down. Its belfry, 290 ft. high, affords a grand panoramic view of the surrounding country ; and its chimes, which jilay by machinery four times an hour, are the finest in Europe, and are those cele- brated by Longfellow in his " BeHry of Bruges." " In tfie market-place of Bruges stands the belfry old and brown ; Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it watches o'er the town. As the summer morn wiis breaking, on that lofty tower I stood, And the world threw off the darkness, like the weeds of widowhood. Thick with towns and hamlets studded, and with streams and vapours grey, Like a shield embossed with silver, round and vast the landscape lay. At my feet the city slumber'd. From its chimne5'S, here and there, Wreaths of snow-white smoke, ascend- ing, vanish'd, ghost-like, into air. Then most musical and solemn, bring- ing back the olden times, With their strange, unearthly changes rang the melancholy chimes, Like the psalms from some old cloister, when the nuns sing in the choir ; And the great hell tolTd among them, like the chanting of a friar." On the south side of the square, at the corner of the Rue St. Amand, is the house occupied by < BELGIUM. Route 70.— BRUSSELS TO GIIF.XT. 329 Charles IF. of Kiifrliind, while in exile ; ami in tlie Imll of the cross- bowmen (of which fraternity he was elected the king), in the Arcliers' Guilils, tliere is a bust of him, and a jtortrnit of tlie Duke of Ciloucester, liis hrotlicr. IVIost of tlie otiier jmhlic build- ings are modern and uninterest- ing. Bruges is an exceedingly cheap place of residence, espe- cially as regards house rent. Its cl)ief manufaciure is that of lace. The famous Order of tlie Golden Fleece was instituted here by Philip the (iood in 14,'?0, in re- cognition of the excellence to ■which the town had attained in the manufacture of wool. Bruges still retains its ancient reputation, as the place pur excellence in Bel- gium for handsome women. liiankenhei-jn^he, 7^ miles from Bruges, wiiich a few years ago ■was a miserable fishing village, seems to be rising yearly in favour as a bathing place, iind is much frefjuented. 'I'here is a railway to it direct from Bruges. The country between Bruges and Ostend is fertile, but flat, devoid of timber, and generally uninteresting. A fine canal ex- tends from 15ruges to Ostend. In the year 1798 a body of Knglisli troops, landing at the latter place, destroyed the sluices of the canal. Owing to a cliange in the wind, tliey were unable to make good their escape, and were taken pri- soners by tlie French. Ostend (78 miles), (Hotels: des Btdns,* de Fruiice, de Frusse, d'Alleinacrne), population, 17,250. Originally a fishing-town, Ostend ■R'as walled by Philip the (iood, who at the same time enlarged the port, in 144.5, and regularly fortified by the Prince of Orange in 1583; to whicli latter circum- stance it owes its mention in Furo- pean history as having withstood a siege by the Sjianiards for more than three years, and then sur- rendered only by command of the States General. Tlie besieged are said to have lost 50,000 men, and the besiegers 80,000. Except as a bathing-jilace, with a gently sloping beach of very fine sand, and of great extent, it has no attractions or objects of interest for the visitor. The principal promenades are along the Dh^ue, a sea-wall 1^ miles long, about the centre of which are the Kur- saal, and the wooden jetties which project from the entrance to the Larbour. An extensive view is obtainable from the summit of the light-liouse at the end of the Digue. •Steamers arrive daily from Eng- land, with which the trade of the place is principally carried on. Ostend is renowned for its oysters, which are raised from spat or fry, brought from England, and dejio- sited in reservoirs called " parks." Route 71. BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, AIX- LA-CIIAPELLE AND CO- LOG A E. IbO miles ; (express) 1st class, ^7-75 francs; tind, 20'50 /"iv/hcs ; (ordi- »(/)•(/) ist cliiss, 24'75 francs ; ^nd,' 18-'20 francsi 3rd, 12-30 francs. ?IIP2 first place of inte- ^<» rest, after leaving Brus- sels, is Loi'VAiN (18 miles), (Hotel : de Siivde), population, 3'i,.500. Tliis place is said to have been built upon the site of an entrenchment formed by tlie Xormans, and occupied by them for some years 330 Route 71. —BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. BELGIUM. as a stronghold from which to cany on tlieir depredations. On their expulsion by tlie Emperor Arnold in 891, their camp be- came the nucleus of a city. The Counts of Louvain finally became Dukes of Lower Lorraine, and of Brabant. Tlie city is said to have had, in the 14th century, 200,000 inhabitants, principally engaged in woollen manufactures. It sub- sequently declined in prosperity, owing to the disputes between its Aristocracy and Bourgeoisie ; tlie latter, being worsted, are said to have emigrated in great num- bers to England, where they in- troduced the art of cloth-working. It has suffered much from inun- dations and from fires, but still retains much of its ancient splen- dour, of which its Hotel de Ville is one of the choicest examples, being, by common consent, the most tasteful and picturesque in Belgium. It was commenced in 1447, and finislied in 1463. Hope, the author of the History of Archi- tecture, calls it "the ne plus ultra of floreated ogival Gothic." The edifice owes many of its recent decorations to the influence of Victor Hugo with the Common Council on the occasion of his visit in 1852. There is a museum on the second floor, but the pictures are more interesting from their antiquity than from their merits. The principal church is that of St. Peter, which dates from the end of the 14th century, and is rich in works of art. It has a very delicately sculptured rood- loft of the loth century ; and some pictures of the old Flemish school, amongst which is a triptych by Quintin Matsys, representing the Holy Family. In front of the rood-loft is a chandelier in wrought iron by the same artist, who is supposed to have been born here about 1430. The church of St. Gertrude has a much-admired spire, and carved oak stalls. St. Michael's has some artistically-carved confessionals ; and St. Jac(|ues's and St. Quen- tin's have some good pictures by Crayer and others. The University, formerly one of the most celebrated in Europe, was founded in 1426 ; suppressed by the French ; refounded by William 1. in 1817; and is the principal theological school in Belgium. Passing the small village of Esemael, a few miles beyond TiRLEMONT (38f miles), we enter the plain of Neerwinden, where the English and their allies, under \\ illiam III., were beaten by the French under Marshal de Luxemburg in 1693 ; and where, 100 years later, the army of the French Republic, under Dumou- riez, was defeated and driven out of Belgium, by the Austrians, under the Prince of Saxe Coburg. Landen (46f miles) was the birth-place of Pepin, Mayor of the Palace to Dagobert I., and an ancestor of Charlemagne. The tumulus under which he was buried is still to be seen, and bears his name ; but his body was removed to Nivelles, to the mo- nastery founded by his daughter Gertrude. Waremme (5.51 miles) was for- merly a place of some importance ; the capital of the district called the Hesbaye, and known for the valour of its inhabitants, displayed in all the struggles of the middle ages, between the Bishops of Liege and the Dukes of Brabant, especially in the sanguinary feud between the Seigneurial families of 'Awans and Waroux. A scion of the latter fell in love with a serf of the former family, carried her off, and married her. The feud which arose out of tliis cir- BELGIUM. Route 72.— BRUSSELS TO TREVES. cumstance lasted from 1290 to 1335, and is said to have cost 32,000 lives. At FixiiE (62{ miles) we see, on the riijht, the Ciistle of' liierset. Ans (t)7.i miles) staiuls on an elevation 4.J0 ft. al)ove tlie Meuse. The descent, for upwards of two miles, is very ahnipt, and the cars are let down an inclined plane by cables worked by sta- tionary ensjines. We next reach Liege (71{ miles). For description of Liege, and the remainder of the journey to Colofpie, see Route 56. Route 72. BRUSSELS TO NAMUR, ARLOX, lu.\e:\iburg AND TREVES. 169^ miles; Jirst class,22-95francs; second, 17 •45 J'lancs; third, IVaO francs. [EAVIXG Brussels by the Great Luxembursj Railway station, in tlie Quartier Leopold, we reach Ottigmes (13 miles), the junction of the lines from Lou- vain, Charleroi and Mons. Pass- ing several other stations of no note, we enter several deep cut- tings as we near Xaniur, then, proceeding across the fme valley of the Sainbre, reach Nami'h (35 miles), described in Route 56. [From Namur a railway' branches oft' by Dinaut and Givet ( French frontier) to jMezieres-Charleville and Sedan (see Route 58). Dis- tance from Namur to Sedan about 65 miles. Dinant (11 miles from \amur), population 6,500, is situated on the .Meuse, in the midst of extremely jiictures(|ue scenery. Tlie church of Notre Dame is a richly decorated CJothic structure. Tlie 'i'own Hall was once tlie palace of the jirinces of Liege. GivET is a French fortress of the first class. The town is situated on botli banks of the ^leuse.J From Xamur we pass on through a succession of charming views to CiNEv (53 miles), formerly a Roman station, in the neighbour- hood of which many of the most interesting objects in the Namur Museum have been found. We shortly afterwards reach Jemelle (71 miles), where a cave is to be seen called the Grotte de la ]\'a>nine. [If the tourist desires to visit the wonderful (h-ottes de Han, he must aliglit at Jemelle, where he will find an oiniiibiis for Roche- fort, whicli will also conduct liira to the village of Han, from which the grottoes may be reached on foot, in about half an hour. These Troiis, as they are called by the country people, are the greatest natural curiosities in the country, and consist of a series of caverns, through which the Lesse runs for a considerable distance. The effects of the torcli-liglit upon the stalactites is very striking. The time occupied in passing through these caverns is usually about an hour and a half, the distance being about a mile.] 'Ihe next place of interest is Ani.oN (II85 miles), (Hotels: du iY()rd,.S'c/i)iei(/cr), population 5,700. This is the chief town of Belgian Luxemburg, entirely destroyed by the French under the Duke of Guise, in 1558, sacked by the Dutch in 160-i, and again by the French in 1651, and dismantled of its fortifications twenty years later, it has uo features of interest. The 332 Route 72.— BRUSSELS TO TREVES. BELGIUM. number of inscriptions, medals, and other remains found here attest its ancient importance as a Roman town. Tliere is a very extensive view from the terrace of the old Capuchin convent. In the neighbourhood of Arlon, are the ruins of the Abbey of Orval, one of the most extensive and wealthy establishments in Bel- gium, destroyed by the French in the last century. Luxemburg (138 miles), (Ho- tels : de Cologne, de Luxemburg, de I' Europe), population 12,100,is the capital of the Grand Duchy which gives its title to the King of Hol- land. From Arlon to Luxemburg German is the language of the counti-y. Tlie princij^al celebrity of this place is derived from its Strength as a fortress ; and the ne- gotiations, which led to its partial dismantlement, when some idea ■was entertained by its sovereign of transferring it to France, a few years since, will be fresh in the mind of the reader. Situated upon an almost inaccessible rock, it was naturally occupied as a defensive position in very early times, and is said to liave been so under the Emperor Gallienus in 260. Three- fourths of its garrison were Prus- sian and the remainder Dutch. The church of Notre Dame is of the seventeenth century, and contains an "Ascension," by Abraham Gilson, an "Adoration of the Magi," attributed to Otto Venius, and the tomb of Jean I'Aveugle, King of Bohemia. Leaving Luxemburg, we pro- ceed for some distance along the bank of the Sure to its confluence with the Moselle at Wasserbillig. Crossing tlie Sure at this point, we reach the frontier of Prussia. At Igel, about six miles from Treves, there is a remarkable quadrangular Roman obelisk, up- wards of 70 feet in height, en- graved with inscriptions and bas- reliefs. Treves (169| miles), (Hotels: Trierescher Hof, Das Rothe Haus), population, 21,240. This ancient and interesting town, the capital of Trier, in Rhenish Prussia, is situated on the River Moselle. It was formerly the capital of the Treviri, a powerful people men- tioned by Caesar, and the occa- sional residence of several Roman emperors. In the middle ages it became an archbishopric, the archbishop being arch - chancel - lor of the empire, and second in rank as an elector, giving the first vote. The archbishopric and electorate were abolished by the treaty of Luneville, in 1801. The cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helena is built in the early By- zantine style, and is supposed to have been part of the residence of the Empress Helena. The church of St. Simeon is supposed to have been built in the early part of the fourth century, in the time of Constantine. This is one of the most important Roman monu- ments in Germany, and was con- secrated as a place of Christian worship in the eleventh century. The old Roman gateway {Porta Nigra), since Treves has been in the possession of Prussia, has been restored as far as possible to its original state. Few cities are richer in Roman remains than Treves. It was so important a city that Ausonius called it the second city of the Roman Empire. The palace of the elector-prelates is now a barrack, and stands upon the site of an old Roman building which is supposed to have been the residence of Constantine. Some parts of the walls are 90 ft. high and 10 ft. thick. There are also remains of baths, and of an amphitheatre where Constantine entertained the people with wliat BELCill'M. Route 72.— BRUSSELS TO TREVES. 333 he ternifd Fnuikisli (iamos — tho siglit of tliousands of uiuirmcd prisoners exposed to slauijlupr by savagt," beasts. This amphitheatre is estimated to have been capable of hoUlinMn-^ I ..M.l'«ii HOLLAS D. S35 back as tlieyear 1 ItO, since which pt-riod tilt' total area of land thus recovereil, amounts to y,>(),0()0 acres. The reclamation of Haar- lem .Meer, one of tiie most imjior- tant and successful of these un- dertakin-^s, was hef,379; Lux- emburn.<< l.'>nii HOLLAND. Roule 73.— ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. 330 the public biiililinpjs are penerally not distiiii;uislirtl)lc' from privutu houses. Thefiiii'St liuiKiinij is the Palace. The square on wliich it stands, is calli'd the Diim. This ma'^niKcent huihlinjjc is t?8'i feet loni,' and 11(5 feet hiijli, exclusive of the tower, from the summit of wliich a beautiful view may he ob- tained of the city, and the countr}' whole huihliriEf stands on l.'),(559 j)ile8. In the centre of the Dam IS a cross to tlie memory of the Dutch soldiers who fell in the Kevolutiouary strus<-f^les of IS.'JO- 31. There are several tine pictures in the Studthuis, but the <;reat jiic- ture-i^allery of Amsterdam is the 3/».sei(»i, whicli is o])en from 10 to 3, every day except Saturday, on Till-, PALAd,, AMSl 1 HDAM. for many miles round it. The interior is decorated throufjhout %vith paintinjrs and sculptures, the work of Dutch masters. The ball- room is said to be larsjer than any similar apartment in Europe. Its walls are faced with wliite marble, and adorned with bas-reliefs. In the vaults undt>rneath the Palace are preserved the treasures of the Bank of the Netherlands. The which day it can be seen for a small fee; a cruilder is expected. 1 1 contains numerous master-pieces of the Dutch school. The two principal paintinc^s are "The City Guard of Amsterdam celebratinsj the treaty of .Miinster, 164B," by A'an der Heist, and "The Night ^Vatcll," by Kembrandt. Tliere are many others of the hiojhest order of merit. The Fodor Mu- 340 Route 73.— ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. Holland. seitm also contains some g;ood pic- tures, and the Historic GaUeiy of Pictures should be visited. The Old Church {Oude herk) has a very fine organ, considered by many connoisseurs to be equal in tone to that at Haarlem. It also contains some good painted win- dows. The New Church {Nieawe herk), built in 1408, is a remark- ably handsome building. It con- tains a fine screen of brass, and several monuments. The New Exchange, near the Palace, is a fine structure. In the Botermtnkt is a fine statue of Rembi-andt. The Zoological Gardens are extensive and beautifully laid out, and the collection is one of the best in Europe. The chief branches of industry are woollen and cotton manufactures, refineries of borax, and diamond cutting. Of the two last-men- tioned this city has almost a mono- poly. The docks and quays are extensive, and there are pleasant promenades along the dykes, or banks of the canals, many of them shaded by fine trees. Amsterdam now communicates with the sea by the North Hol- land Canal, which is 51 miles long. It has been found inadequate and a new canal is being cut directly to the sea. It will be 14 miles in length, and the cost is estimated at £2,000,000. The artificial har- bour in process of construction at the northern extremity of the new canal will cover 260 acres. [An interesting excursion may be made by steamer, leaving Am- sterdam six times a day, to Zaan- dam (sometimes called Saardam), noted as the place where Peter the Great worked as a shipwright in 1696. The house or hut in which he lived is still standing. It was purchased by the late Queen of Holland, wlio, for the purpose of preserving it, caused it to be covered by another building. The hut consists of two rooms on the ground floor, over which is a loft where Peter kept specimens of ship building. The first room on entering is the sitting room. It still contains his oak table, three chairs and the recess with folding doors which served as his bed- stead. Over the chimney is the inscription, placed there by the Emperor Alexander in 1814, " Petro Magno, Alexander;" and near it is another inscription placed there by the government ot Hol- land. Opposite the door, on an oval tablet, is a third inscription by the Emperor Alexander, which may be translated " Nothing is too small for a great man." Zaan- dam has 400 windmills. The interesting village of Broek, known as the cleanest in the world, may be visited on the same day by taking a carriage at Zaandam and returning by it to Buiksloot ferry and crossing thence to Am- sterdam. Broek is a singular and beautiful village. Its streets are paved with variegated bricks and shells, and are kept in exquisite order. Car- riages are not allowed to enter the town, travellers being com- pelled to walk through it. The houses are mostly of wood and are generally painted white or green, and are roofed with tiles of different colours. The shutters are usually closed, and the principal entrance is seldom opened except on the marriage or death of a member of the family.] HOLLAND. Route 7i.— ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT. 3»1 llouTE 74. ROTTERDAiM TO UTRECHT, ARXHEM AXD COLOGAE. 168§ miles ; 1st class, 10.^5 giiildeis; 2nd, 6.455 guilders; 3rd, 4.~8 guilders. ; HAVING Rotterdam, tlie first j)l:ici> ot'interest is Goi'DA (13 miles), {Hotels: Uertluiis, Zalin), population, 1.t,,500. It is a town with few attractions for tlie tourist. The churcli of St. .lohn is sup- posed to contain nearly the finest series of stained ijlass windows in Europe, more tlian forty in num- ber. They are tlie work of tlie brothers liirk and W'outer Crabeth and their assistants, 1,560 — 1603, excepting one, which was destrov- ed in a storm, and restored in 165.), wliich may readily be dis- tinguished from tlie otiiers. TIjey mostly represent scriptural sub- jects. One represents the taking of Damietta by the Emj>eror Fre- derick Barbarossa; another, tlie Last Supper, with Pliilip of Spain and Mary of England kneeling. There are some mo- numents and a good organ, of wliich the (or humaiia stop is much admired. The il6tel de t'ille was tlie residence of Jaciiueline of Bavaria. The chief source of industry is the manufacture of bricks. Good cheesc^s are made in the neighbourhood. The Rhine is connected with the Yssel and Meuse by a lock on the canal at (Jouda. We next reach Wokiidf.x (23 miles), only remarkable for tlie cruelties practised on the inli:it)i- tants by the French troojis under IMarshal T.uxr'mburg, in 167'J. \'oltaire alludes to them. The next j)lace of interest is UrrtFCiiT (.33 miles ), ( Hotels : IJes I'aiis lias, 'T hdsteel iuu Anterwerpen), po- pulation, 57,550. 'I'iiis city, called by the Romans Tnijectiim ad Rheiium, is situati-d at the con- fluence of the \'echt with that branch of the Rhine which passes I^eiden, and which, j)revious to 8.'];), was the principal course of the river. 'I'he treaty which put an end to the war of the Spanish succession, known as the Treaty of Utreciit, was signed here in 1713. From the tower of the cathedral, 321 feet in height, a beautiful view is to be had. It waa erected in 1382. Part of the nave of the cathedral was destroved by a storm in the seventeenth centurv, and the tower is therefore detach- ed from the main building. The oldest part is the choir (1251-67), a beautiful si)ecimen of Gothic ar- chitecture. The cj-ypt and cloisters deserve notice. The ['niversitu, dating from 1636, contains some collections of various scientific specimens ; the anatomical series is es])ecially interesting. The Xa- lioii.il Ohserratory and the Mint are estaldished at Utrecht. The Mail is a triple avenue of lime trees, and affords a delightful prome- nade. TJie sect of the Jansenists have their strongliold at Utreciit. \\ e now proceed through a well- wooded country and reach Diue- BEiujEv (40§ miles), where there is an interesting Moravian settle- ment, and, passing some smaller stations, next arrive at Arnhem (68 miles), (Hotel: Belle Vue), population, 31,800. It is noted as the place where Sir Philip Sydney died of the wound re- ceived at the battle of Zutphen, 1586. The Groote Kerk contains the handsome monumental tomb of d'F.gmont, Duke of tiueldres. The neighhourliood of Arnhem abounds in fine country-houses, 342 Route 74.— ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT, iiollanu. with parks and pleasure-grounds, many of the latter open to the public. Soon after passing Zevenaar (77 miles) we cross the Prussian frontier, the first station beyond which is Elten (8'i miles). The rail to Cologne by Cleves diverges here. [About five miles from Elten is the town of Cleves, (Hutels: Maiwuld, Robbers), population, 9,000. This place is supposed to derive its name from the Latin word Clivum, being built upon three hills. The ancient castle of the Dukes of Cleves called the Schwanenbiirg ( " Swan's Tower "), was the birth-place of Anne of Cleves, one of the wives of Henry VIII. The principal tower is 180 ft. high. This castle derives its name from a legend to the effect tliat a knight once appeared there in a vessel drawn by a swan. He married the then Duchess of Cleves, and after ten years was conveyed away by the same swan, and was seen no more. It is the subject of a poem by Southey. The old church contains some good monuments and brasses. The Prhizenh of is a fine building, and tlie Thiergaiten affords an agree- able promenade.] We next reach Emmerich (87 miles), {Hotel: Roifat), popu- lf>tion, 8,000. This is a fortified t:vn, and a place of some manu- facturing importance. Tlie Minster is a very old church, tlie choir and crypt dating from the eleventh century. (Custom House.) The next place of consequence is Wesel (103J miles), {Hotel: Doriibusch's), population, 18,000. It is situated at the confluence of the Lippe with the Rhine, and is a powerful fortress. The Rathhaits is a fine Cothic building, erected in 1396. The trade of this town with Holland is considerable. At Oberhausen (124 miles) the railway joins that from Cologne to Hanover, Berlin, Leipsic, and other places in North (Jermany. There are extensive collieries and ironworks in the neighbourhood. Passing Duisburg (129 miles), a manufacturing town of 13,000 in- habitants, and some other places, we reach DiisSELDORF (144^ miles), (Ho- tels: Europaischer Hof, Breiden- bucher Hof), population, 65,000. This town is situated in tlie centre of a fertile district, on the right bank of the Rhine at the confluence of the Dlissel with that river. It was originally strongly fortified ; but after the peace of Luneville in 1801, the fortifications were de- molished and promenades formed upon their site. It consists of three divisions : the Alstadt, Neu- stadt, and Karlstadt. Dusseldorf is considered one of the hand- somest towns in Germany. The streets and squares are large and regular and the houses well built. It contains numerous churches, a synagogue, a seminary, two hos- pitals, a theatre, and extensive barracks. It also possesses an academy of sciences, a Catholic gymnasium, an observatory, a library and a museum. Its School of Fainting is very celebrated. Every summer, in July or August, an exhibition of paintings, by native artists, is held here. The castle contains a gallery of paint- ings by the most eminent masters, and also a good collection of sketches and water-colours. The Hofgarten is one of the finest public gardens in Europe. The prin- cipal manufactures are those of cloth, cashmere and tobacco. Jn 1806 it became the residence of the Grand Duke of Berg, and in 181.5 was ceded to Prussia with tiie Ducliy of Berg. Leaving Diisseldori", we see, on the left, HOLLAND. Route 74.— ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT. 343 the steeple of the beautiful church From Deutz, opposite the city, of St. Quirinus at Neuss. A to Cologne, the railway crosses short distance beyond MIjmikim tlie maj;nificent new iron brid^re (1655 miles) is Cologne, described one of the finest works of the kind in Route 56. in the world. SWITZERLAND. ROUTES. Page. 346 349 350 353 354 356 Route. 75. Bale to Schaffhausen AND Constance . . 76. Schaffhausen to Zu- rich 77. Zurich to Coire, and THE Splugen Pass TO CoMO .... 78. Bale to Zurich, by Olten 79. Zurich TO Lucerne. . 80. The Ascent of the RiGI 81. The Lake of Lucerne, andtheSt. Gothard Pass to Como and THE Lago Maggiore 82. Lucerne to Inter- LAKEN, BY THE BrU- njg Pass . . . . 83. Interlaken to Lau- terbrunnen and Grindelwald, by THE Wengern Alp . 84. Grindelwald to Mey- ringen, by the Great Scheideck . itlWITZEPvLAND is bounded on the north and east by Ger- many, on the south by Italy, and on the west by France. Its greatest length from east to west is a little over 200 miles, and its breadtli, north and south, is 156 miles. Its entire area is 15,233 square miles. Two-thirds of its surlace consist of lofty mountain chains and val- leys, and the remainder is a plain, 1,300 ft. above the level of the sea. This plain extends across the country in the direction of north-east and south-west between the Lakes of Constance and Ge- neva, and separates tlie chains of the Jura mountains from the main Boute. 85. Meyringento Hospen- thal, by the Grim- SEL Hospice and the FuRCA Pass . . . Geneva to Lausanne by Vevay, including THE Lake of Geneva, Geneva to Milan, by THE SiMPLON Pass • Geneva to Chamouni . Martigny to Cha- mouni, BY THE TeTE Noire Visp TO Zermatt . • 91. Martigny to the 86 87. 88. 89. 90. Page. 371 372 377 381 385 387 358 Great St. Bernard 387 92. Geneva to Bale, by Freyburg and 366 Berne 390 93. Geneva to Bale, by Neuchatel . . . 392 94. Berne to Thun and 367 Interlaken . . . 394 95. Thun to Leuk, by the Gemmi Pass . . . 395 370 ranges of the Alps. In the south- western portion of Switzerland the mountains consist of two prin- cijial chains, between which is the valley of the Rhone. The more southern of these chains is called the Pennine; that on the north side of the Rhone the Bernese Alps. Near the point where these two chains diverge is Mount St. Gothard, which forms the nucleus of ranges which extend over east- ern, south-eastern, and central Switzerland. All the higher parts of the Alps rise above the line of congelation, and the immense quantities of snow accumulated on their summits, are continually fiilling into the valleys below, where they often occasion serious THE JUNCFRAU WENGERN ALP EICER..0MONCH swit: . OliambcCj— Appieloris European Guide Book. RLAND. \' //oA B^Mfn. - g., 3 BaU 4 bernr ii . i' ril>oui*6 " GIiiri« o Ginitoiifl. y T.ufpriic 10. Jeiioh»tid 11. S»G«J1 1 2 ScliaiijJUAen J^jli- Solrure. 16. TLiir{^\- c^- Sons, Loudon. SWITZERLAND. iiUITZKULAXD. 345 (Ipviistafion. Tin' mountain chains of tlie Jura present a very tliti'e- rent appearance to the Alps, and are sometimes clotlied with pine forests. No part of tla^m reaches tlie elevation of perpetual Bnow. They are gjeiierally more precipitous and abrupt on the Swiss side, and descend with a gradual slo])e towards France. The two most considerable rivers of Switzerland are the Rhine and the Rhone, both originating in the hiirh mountain rej^ion which lies around .Mount 8t. Gotliard. The River Aar joins the Rhine about 50 miles below Lake Con- Stance, and brin<:^s with it the waters of an extensive system of lakes and rivers, wiiich includes the Lake of Ziirich, the Lake of Lucerne, (out of which flows the River Reusr.), the Lakes of Thun and Brienz, and the Lakes of Xeuf- chatel and Brienne, connected with the Aar by the River Theil. The River Tessin or Ticino, which belons),(//(ife/ : Knme), popuhition, 1,500, a walled town, opposite the station, on the left bank. The Rhine is here crossed Rhine. The town consists of one principal street, lined with (|uaint old tasliioiied houses. Near this place, the Aar falls into the Rhine. Some distance bt-yond \\ aldshut, is Nkl'iiai'skv (.">7i miles), (//u- tel: SciiwtizEii Hot.* The sta- tion is close bv the river, and from the hotel tlie best view is obtained of the Falls ok the Rhine. They may be approached either by the right or the left FALLS OF THE IlIllNE, SCHAFFHAUSEN. by a wooden bridge. Part of the town is built of materials brought from Augst. In the neighbour- hood are extensive salt-works. At SACfiixGEN (20 miles), we see an old Abbey Church, with 2 towers. At Lauffenhurg Statioi\ (26 miles), there is a wooden bridge across the Rhine, connecting the small with the great town, {Hotel : A(ller), population, 900. It de- rives its name from the rapids {I.aiiffen), into which the river is here broken. Waldsiut (35 miles), (Hotel: Rtbitock), is situ- ated on the border of tlie ]51ack Forest. The Swiss Junction Rail- way to Turgi here crosses the bank. A convenient point of view is from the Castle of l.au- j'en, on the left. In falling from the rock, the Rhine forms three cascades : that on the south side, rushing over two pillar- shaped rocks, is the finest. The river is about 300 ft. wide above the falls, and the latter are from 50 to 60 ft. in height. A fine view may be had from the rail- way bridge above the falls. At niglit, when all is still, and the wind in the proper ipiarter, the noise of the waters may be heard for 7 or 8 miles. ScnAFFHAUSEX (64 miles), (Ho- tels : Coufonne, Pout, Lion), 348 Ecute75.—BALE TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. Switzerland. ])opulation, 10,000. (An omnibus from the Schueizer Hof, at the Falls of" the Rhine, awaits the arrival of uU trains.) This town, the capital of the canton of its name, is situated on the slope of the northern bank of the Rhine, and is a place of considerable in- dustry. The projecting three- sided windows, and the curious roofs of the houses ; the wails, and old-fasliioned gates give a re- markably picturesque appearance to the place. Above it, rises the fortress called Munnoth Castle; its walls are of great thickness, and it is undermined with subterranean passages. The M'unster, com- menced in 1104, and finished in 1453, was once the Abbey of All Saints. It is massive in its con- struction, and some parts of it are well preserved. The St. Johan- iieskirche is said to be the largest church in Switzerland. The Town Library contains the books and manuscripts of the celebrated historian 31iiller, together with a collection of antiquities of various kinds. Leaving Schaffhausen, ■we presently pass Singen (82 miles), about 2 miles to the north- west of which are the ruined Castle of Hohentwiel, on the sum- mit of a high rock. Radolfszeli. 835 niiles), (Hotel: Poste), has a handsome church. The scenery in this neighbourhood is very beautiful. We next reach Con- stance (93t miles), (Hotels: Brocket, Golden Adler, Badescher Hnf), population, 9,400. Tliis town, once numbering 40,000 in- habitants, is situated at the north- west extremity of the lake. Its streets and buildings have a venerable appearance. The Cathe- dral, or Dom, was commenced in 1052. It is of jjointed architecture, with two handsome turrets at the west end, and two curiously carved oaken doors. The Council of Constance, which assembled in 1414, sat in the hall of the Kuuf- haus. The alleged heresies of Wickliffe and John Huss, were here condemned ; and the latter, notwithstanding the pledge of safety given him by the Emperor, was seized and burnt in a field in the suburb of Briihl. The spot is indicated by a mass of rock with inscriptions. The chairs in which the Emperor and the Pope sat at the Council, the Bible of Huss, and other relics, are shown for a fee of 1 franc. The Dominican Convent in which Huss was con- fined, is now used as a mill. Travellers who wish to see the Lake of Constance may take one of the steamers which leave Con- stance three times a day in sum- mer, and touch at the various places upon both shores. From liomanshorn, Zurich may be reached by railway in 2^ hours. From Friedrichshufen, Ulmmay be reached in 4 hours, and from Lindaii, Augsburg may be reached in 5 hours. The Lake of Constance, or the Bodensee, is, with the exception of Lake Leman, the only frontier lake of Switzerland. It is smaller in superficial extent than that of Geneva, but exceeds it in its depth and vqlume of water, being 44 miles from Bregenz to its ex- treme north-western prolongation at Ueberlingen, and 30 from Bre- genz to Constance. Its width, between the embouchure of the Aach on the north, and Wiede- horn on the southern shore, is about nine miles. Its coasts border five sovereign states : viz., Austria, Bavaria, Wurtemburg and Baden, and Switzerland, which possesses the whole south- ern coast. Numerous streams augment the body of water poured in at the Rhine, and conti-ibute in their measure to fill uji the basin of the lake. In beauty of scenery it is ex- SWITZERLAND. Route 76.—SC H AFFIIAUSEN TO ZUlllCU. 349 celled hv Lucerne and (iencva. AltJiouj;li its sliores have ac- auired no peculiar associations from having been the chosen resi- dence of poets and philosophers — nevertheless tiie scenes in which its Swiss and Swabian conliiies abound are full of inin^iled beauty and sublimity, and are such as. even after a survey of the inland cantons, cannot fail to secure ad- mirers. At sunset, the evening illumination issplenilid — etjual on many occasions, to that witnessed from Geneva, Lausanne, and the Jura mountains. To the traveller who approaches Constance from the eiist, the view is striKngly beautiful ; with the AIj)s on his left, and the vine-clad shores of Swabia on the right. Route 76. SCIIAFFHAUSEX TO ZURICH. 36 miles; ist class, S'OO francs ; 2n(l, 4-15 francs; 3rd, ^2-95 francs. EAVINGSchaffliausen, we proceed along the right bank of the Rhine to a point above the falls, where we cross the river by a fine stone bridge. Passing be- neath the Castle i>J Lai(/"eH, through a tunnel, we obtain a hasty view of the falls on the right, before reaching Dachsen (three miles). The railway presently turns away from the Rhine and tra- verses a rich extent of country to Adelfingen (seven miles), where it crosses the Rhine, and passes into the valley of the Toss. WlNTEUTHUR (18 Hiiles), {Hotels : Krone, Adler), popula- tion 8, '2.50. This is a manufac- turing town, princii>ally engaged in cotton-printing and the weaving of muslins. Here is the junction of the Rorschach and St. Gall line with that of Romanshorn and Zurich. Leaving \\ interthur we continue along the valley of the TiJss, passing, on the left, the Castle of Kylnir'^, formerly in the possession of the Imperial House of Austria. It became the pro- perty of Rudolph of Hapsburg in 1264. He and his two successors kept tlie regalia of the German Emjiire in the chapel of the castle. It is open to the public — admis- sion 50 centimes. Crossing the river Toss, we proceed along the valley of the Glatt, and reach ^^'ALI.I.sEl.I,E^■ (30 miles ) ; we next pass through a long tunnel under the hill of W'eid and reach ZiiRicH (35 miles), (Hotels: Baur av Lac,* Baur en Ville,* Belle Vue), population, 49,000. It is situated at the north end of the lake that bears its name. J t has been called the intellectual capital of Switzerland, and is un- doubtedly the first in manufac- turing importance. The busy part of the town abounds in mills and factories, while the other part contains many fine houses. Tiie sliores of the lake are covered with vineyards, corn-fields, and pleasant gardens, interspersed with country-houses and cottages. There are few important buildings to attract the attention of the tourist. The Arsenul contains a large collection of armour and weapons, ancient and modern. Here is a standard, taken from Charles the Bold, and a cross- bow, said to have belonged to \\ illiam Tell. The large building on the height above the town is the Polytechnic school. The City Librarxi contains 80,001) volumes, besides portraits of all the burgo- 360 Route 77. —ZURICH TO COIRE. Switzerland. masters of Zurich, three letters of Lady Jane Grey, the Greek Bihle of Zwhigli, his portrait, and a bust of Lavater. Zwingli ministered in the church called the Gross Munster. His residence was No. 185 in the Grosse Stadt. Lavater was minister of the Church of St. Peter. He was shot by a French soldier, September 26, 17'99, when the town was taken by the French under Massena. Besides Lavater, Gesner and Pestalozzi were natives of Ziirich. EouTE 77. ZURICH TO COIRE, AND THE SPLiJGEN PASS TO COMO. To Coire, 81^ miles ; 1st class, 13-70 francs; %id, 8-90 francs; 3rd, 6.50Jrancs. (Travellers who desire to see the fine scenery of the Lake of Zurich maj' go by boat to Rapper- schwj'l, at the upper end, and join the railway there. The railway does not approach the lake until Rapperschwyl is reached. Boats leave Ziirich several times a day. Time occupied, Sg hours.) EAVING Zurich, we proceed to Wallisellen (see Route 76), and, passing some unimpor- tant places, reach Rapperschwyl (19 miles), (Hotel: du Cifgne), ])opulation ii,.500. This is a pic- turesque town, on the borders of the lake, partially surrounded by the old Willis, and containing the remains of a Castle (Der Grafen- burg). in the neighbourhood, to the north-east, rises the Bach- tel, a mountain 3,675 ft. high. ScHMERiKON {'27^ miles), at the eastern end of the lake, near which, on the right, is the ancient Castle of Grynau. The next sta- tion is UzNACH ( 28 miles), ( Hotel : Falcon), population, 1,300. la the neighbourhood is a large cotton- mill, turned by a mountain stream. On the left, on the height, is the monastery of Sion. Passing Uz- nach, we see the snow-capped mountains at the upper end of the valley of Glarus, through which the Linth flows,andpresently reach Wesen (39 miles), {Hotel: Znm Speer), situated amid delightful scenery near the lake of Wallen- STADT. I'he Speer may be ascended from Wesen in about 2i hours. A beautiful view presents itself from the summit. The railway traverses the southern shore of the lake, passing through nine tunnels. '1 he lake is twelve miles long, and three and a half broad. On the north side are steep cliff's, some of them 3,000 ft. high, intersected by mountain torrents. The fall of Bayerbach is seen, on the oppo- site side of the lake, soon after leaving Wesen. After two more tunnels we reach RI u no (44 miles ), on the lake at the mouth of the INIurg valley. Tlie best view of the lake is had from this spot, {Hotel : Ro\di). At the north- eastern end of the lake are the seven peaks of the Sieben Chur- firsten, and below them the station of W ALLENST ADT (51 miles), {Hotel : Aigle d'Or), population •ibout 800. In the neighbour- hood are rich iron-stone mines. Passing through the valley of the Seez, we enter that of the Rhine, and reach Sargans (59 miles), where we join the line from St. Gall. Hence we proceed to Ragatz (64 miles), {Hotels: de la Tamina,* Hof Ragatz), popu- swrxzERLAND. Jioute 77.— ZURICH TO COIRE. S51 lation, 1,618, situated near the entrance of the valley, or ravine, throufjh which the Tamiiia flows to the Rhine. This place is much frequented for its hot springes. The water is conveyed to the hotels from the source in the gorge behind the town, in wooden pipes. One of the most remarkable spots in all Switzerland is the Gorge of Pikifkiis. It is reached by a good carriage road, '2§ miles from the hot. 'is. The hot sj)rings rise ill this gorge, and tlirough it runs the im])etuous I'amina. The chasm is everywhere ex- tremely narrow in relation to its height ; in some places it cannot be more than 12 or 15 ft. wide, and its average width can scarcely be more than '20 or 30 ft., while its height may be 300 or 400. The walls of the chasm are scarcely ever vertical in their whole depth, but inclined one over the other, at a considerable angle. In some places the one wall overliangs the other so much that the sky above it is entirely excluded, and this for a considerable space, by the natural configuration of the parts ; in others, the size of the upper fissure has been originally so small, that it has been entirely closed up by the accidental fall of rocks and rubbish from the heights above. On tliese accounts tlio ■whole chasm is very dark, giving one much more the feeling of being in a cave or mine, than by the natural banks of a river. The shelving direction of the walls of tlie chasm is sometimes the same at its bottom as at its top, so that in looking down we can only see a bare rock, tlie stream being hid by the overlapping of one of its rocky sides. Altogether the place is very extraordinary, and forms perhaps the most remarkable sight of its kind in Switzorland. The source of the hot-s|irini,'s should be visited, at the end of the chasm. From Ragatz we cross the Rhine by a covered wooden bridge and reach Mayenfeld (68 miles), where we obst*rve an ancient tower built by the Roman Emperor Constantius in the fourth century. There is a beautiful view up the valh'y of the Riiine. To tlie norlh-east rises the peak of the Fathiiss, (8,422 ft.) Cross- ing a torrent at L andquart (~0J miles) we see the C'ii;u'e/i( of' Pfeffers, situated at a short dis- tance above the sjirings. On the right bank of the river the barren GrauhiJrner are seen in the dis- tance. PassingZizERs (76 miles), near which is MoliHdra,t\\e coun- try seat of the Bishops of Coire, we reach Coiiie (8I4- miles), (Hotels: Lukmaiiier, Capricorn or Steiiibok), population, 7,6.50. This town, the caj)ital of the Grisons, is situated in a fertile valley of the Li^ne Caddte. It was called by the Romans Curia Rhcetontm. The chief buildings are the Dom, or Church of St. Lucius, a fine Gothic structure, containing some curious old carvings and pictures, the Episcopal Polace and the Libraru. The church contains amongst its relics the bones of St. Lucius, an ancient British king, the re- puted founder of the church of St. Peter in Cornhill. Angelica Kauftinan was a native of Coire. Diligences twice every day over the Spliigen Pass to Colico, on the Lake of Como, and daily over the Bernardin to 13ellinzona. The Ptfs ; Alpnach to Brienz, diligence, 5f frames; Brienz to Interlaken, steamer, 2 francs. The whole distance from Lucerne to Interlaken may be made in 12 hours, by carriage.) ILPNACH m miles) may be reached either by the road or by steamer. The so-called Lake of Alpnach is a gulf or arm of the Lake of Lucerne. The Castle of Rotzberg, on the east shore, was the first Austrian for- tress taken by the peasants in their memorable insurrection (1st January, 1308). One of their number, being the lover of a ser- vant girl who lived in the Castle, obtained admission by a ladder of ropes, and admitted, by the same means, twenty of his comrades, who surprised and overpowered the garrison. Below the castle is the village of Stanzstad, conspi- cuous for its lofty watch-tower, erected in the fourteenth century. Alpnach is situated at the foot of Mount Pilate. The pines along the heights of this mountain were formerly carried down to the lake by a curious channel called the Slide of Alpnach. It was removed in 1819. The church was built of timber so conveyed. The ascent of Mount Pilate can be best made from Alpnach. Time, 4 to 5 hours; liorse and man, 12 francs ; guide, 6 francs. Sarnen (16§ miles), (Hotels: Sarnen Hof^ Aigle d'Or), popula- tion 3,300. It is agreeably situ- ated on the lake of Sarnen, below an eminence called Landenberg, from the terrace on which we Lave a beautiful view. The bridge across the river is nearly 300 years old. In the church at Sachseln, a short distance from Sarnen, are preserved the bones of Saint Nicholas von der Flue. They are adorned with a jewelled cross, and some military decora- tions. The walls are covered with tablets, recording the miracle said to have been wrought by the saint in the case of each respective donor. Ascending the Kaiser- stuhl, a steep hill, we reach LuNGERN (26| miles), (Hotels: Br'unig, Lowe), situated near the borders of the lake to which it gives its name, and at the com- mencement of the Briinig Pass. The road ascends by zig-zags through a forest to the summit of the Pass, at a height of 3,294 ft. above the sea. From this point a magnificent prospect extends over the valley of Nidwalden, with Mount Pilate in the distance, and the Lake of Lungern below ; it includes also several mountains in the chain of the Bernese Alps. Near the summit is the Bi-unig Hotel. (The path to Meyringen leaves our route near the hotel, Meyringen may be reached from this point in If hours.) Descend- ing by the new carriage road, from which the views over the lake are very line, we arrive in about an hour at Brienz (36f miles), (Hotels: L'Ours, Weisses-Kreutz), popula- tion 2,284. This town is beauti- fully situated on the lake of the same name. From hence to In- terlaken (46| miles) steamers go three times a day, passing by the Giessbach shore, from which a walk of 20 minutes leads to the Falls, SWITZERLAND. Route82.—LUCFAtyiE TO ISTERLAKEN. 367 Tlio falls of tlie Giessbach have a character as well as beauty alto- ji^ether ])oculiar; six of tiiein can be seen at one g;lance, descending in succession from the wooded heights of the mountain above. In the tourist season they are illuminated nightly by colouri-d port-fires, and then present a sin- gularly beautiful appearance. Tlie middle fall is seen from a small gallery carried directly behind it, and the cataract rushes close be- fore the spectator. The falls above, on the higher declivity, are very fine ; and thougli inferior in grandeur to the more impetuous Keichenbach, imagination can hardly conceive a more lovely situation than that which it en- joys. A capital hotel is near. Interlaken, (Hotels: Victo- niA,* DES AlPES,* JUNGFRAIT,* SciuvEizER HoF,* Belvedere), po- pulation 1,460. The space be- tween the lakes of Thun and Brienz is occupied by the valley of Interlaken, one of the most beau- tiful spots in Switzerland. Sur- rounded by lofty mountains, it is nevertheless open, and might al- most be called a plain. On the east and west it looks towards the two lakes, and on the south to- wards the valley of Lauterbrunnen — its boundaries thus giving it a triangular form. " The beauty and lertility of this valley are ex- traordinary. The greenest and most luxuriant meadows, the richest and most variegated foliage, orchards red with fruit, gardens enamelled with flowers, form alto- gether a picture of singular beauty." The plain is strewed with picturesque eminences, rocky and overspread with fine timber ; and along the right side of the Aar the bank rises gradually up to the mountains which shut in the valley. The immediate environs present the picturesque in most various aspects, and the peaks of the Silherhorn, Miinch, Eiger and Jungfrau are the boundaries of it.s horizon. The climate is mild ; and in the liottest sun the fine avenues of walnut-trees offer some measure of shade. Interlaken has, in latter j-ears, changed its phj-siognomy and as- fiect. It is no longer a Swiss vil- age,butasettlement of foreigners. The wooden houses with their long inscriptions from the Psalms, their Iiigh-pitched roofs and oval win- dows, have been replaced by fine liotels and comfortable habitations. The indigent have been sent away to Unterseen, and the village is now almost exclusively occupied by foreign tourists and residents. The number of summer visitors is estimated at 35,000. The hotels are sprinkled about amid the trees upon either side of a broad avenue which extends almost from lake to lake. A kursaal or casino, with res- taurant, reading, ball, and concert rooms, was opened here in 1859. Persons frequenting it pay a small tax to the proprietor of theii- hotel. EocTE 83. INTERLAKEX TO LAUTER- BRUNNEN AND GRIN- DELWALD (BYTHE WEN- GERN ALP.) HE distance from Inter- laken to Lauterbrunnen is 9 miles, from Lauter- brunnen to Grindelwald 13 miles. One horse carriage to Lauterbrunnen and back 12 francs, 2 horses 22 francs, gratuity to 368 Route Q3.—INTERLAKEN TO LAUTERBRUNNEN. driver, optional. To Lauterbrun- nen and Grindelwald and back, one horse carriage, 16 francs, 2 horses, 28 francs. Leaving Interlaken we proceed through apleasantcountry abound- ing in orchards and meadows. At about two miles from the town, on the right, are seen the ruins of the castle of Unspunnen, the reputed residence of Manfred. It was the fortress of Berthold the founder of Berne. On a rock called the Base Stein, on the riglit of the road, is an in- scription recording the murder, perpetrated on the spot, of his own brother, by one of tlie barons of Eothenfluh. l>i ear Zweil'utichinen (5 miles) the White and Black Liitschine unite, the course of the Black Liitschine being toward Grindelwald. (A view of the Wetterhorn is obtained here.) The road follows the White Liitschine to Lauterbrunnen. The valley of Lauterbrunnen proper may be described in gene- ral terms as a narrow and deep ravine, but a ravine of a gentle character ; rich in trees and foliage, with a bare, perpendicular cliff of enormous height on the west, and a wooded, but steep and lofty mountain, on the east. The rapid Liitschine, justifying by the colour of its glacier water its name of white, sweeps along it, for the most part close to its eastern bar- rier, so as to leave on the other side only a small ledge of flatter ground which is richly cultivated. Ascending the valley, nothing can be seen but its own picturesque and beautiful ramparts,its orchard- like and lawn-like fields, and its rich woods ; but every now and then wlien the traveller looks back, the Jungfrau Or its adj oiningmoun- tain peaks shew themselves, as it were, " blocking up the sky," be- tween the bounding cliffs on either hand, and adding their own pecu- liar attractions to this remarkable scene. Lauterbrunnen, (^Hotels : Ca- pricorn, Staubbach), population about 1,400. This village hes in the valley about 2,400 feet above the sea, and so hemmed in between precipices that the sun is almost entirely excluded during tlie win- ter months. The place is remark- able for its numerous cascades, from whence it derives its name, a literal translation being " nothing but fountains." About half a mile from the Inn is the Staubbach (" Dust-stream") one of the loftiest falls in Europe, measuring between 800 and 900 feet in height. The torrent is in shape like the tail of a white horse streaming in the wind over the rock. " It is not noon — the sunbow's rays still arch The torrent with the many hues of heaven. And roll the sheeted silver's waving column O'er the crags headlong perpendicular. And fling its lines of foaming light along, And to and fro, like the pale courser's tail. The giantsteedtobe bestrode by Death, As told in the Apocalypse." — Manfred. Two routes lead from the vil- lage of Lauterbrunnen to Grindel- wald. By the first, or carriage- road, the distance is about 13 miles. To reach it the traveller must retrace his steps toward In- terlaken as far as to the bridge over the Zweiliitschinen, and then, crossing the river, keep the northern bank of the Black Liits- chine for about seven miles. A route preferable for the healthy and robust, in fine weather, is the mule-track which leads from Lau- terbrunnen over the Wengern-Alp, or Lesser Scheideck. If there be a series of views worth visiting Route 83.— IXTERLAKEN TO LAUTEnDRU^'NEK. 369 the Oberland to beliold, they are to be found on tliis fU'vatcd route, wliicli is one of tlie ijraiulesl of ac- cessible j)asses. The way may be about 1-i measured mih-s, but it occupies seven hours' walking', and may be travelled with perfect safety. The traveller, starting from the Staubbach, crosses the torrent and enters u])on a wooded hill almost as steep as a cliff. 'I'he path is one of the most zigzajjofed in all the Oberland. A Iter ascend- ing for about an hour, tlie traveller reaches a green upland slope, di- versified with timber, and laid out in pasturages, with chalets. The holdings are so small, and the buildings so numerous, that the whole sloj)e seems to form one wide-spread village. Here the national wrestling match takes place on the first Sunday of August in each year. The retrosj)ective view from this elevation shows the valley of Lauterbrunnen, and the Staubbach seems to be like a snowy wreath on its black rocky background. Beyond this jila- teau the path leads to the riglit of a lofty, perpendicular cliffy range, which forms the eastern barrier of the upper valley of Lauterbrunnen, and courses tlie base of the Wen- gem Alp in a southern direction. About a mile and a half below the top of the pass, on the slope of the Wengern .Alp, and on the edge of the clift' which separates the Triimeleten-thal from the Schei- deck, is the inn called H6lel de la Junf:;frau. The accommodations are of a superior character, but the view of the Jungfrau constitutes the staple attraction of the house, which stands directly opposite to the Queen of the Oberland. The height of the Jungfrau is 13,700 ft. above the sea level; thus this is the fourth among Swiss, and the eightli among European moun- tains. About an hour's walking brings tlie traveller to the top of the J^esser Sheideck Pass ( Hotel : liettevue). From this point tlie path descends, and a beautiful valley is seen spreading out to a vast extent, lying along the base of the great mountain-chain of the liernese Alps. The mountains which enclose it present here a most imposing aspect. The path lies through a number of plasliy pastures, and reaches GniNDKi.WALD {Hotels: .idler, liaer). It has a population of y,871. In its valley immense rocks and colossal mountains rise, at the foot of which extend the two celebrated i^luciers. They are within easy distance of the hotels and may be obsiTved without risk or fatigue. The upper glacier, situated between the Wetterhorn and the .Mettenberg, is one and a half league in length, full of rifts and crevices, and has very pure ice pyramids of all kinds. The lower glacier, situated between the Mettenberg and the Eigher, is the more interesting. It is a sea of ice, three leagues in length, ter- ribly torn and cleft, and scattered with pyramids of a grotesque form. " Scarcely three hundred years ago an open pass several leagues in length, led over the chain into the Valais, from which people came to the church of Grindel wald to celebrate baptisms and wed- dings. To-day all is covered with a wild and impassable sea of ice." In the seventeenth century the glacier increased in an extraor- dinary manner, and w;xs no longer to be contained by its valley. Bursting its barriers, it carried away the dwellings which lay in its course, and destroyed the church of St. Petronilla, thebellof which, cast in 1044, is yet in the church of Grindelwald. Tradition relates that at one time the jNIet- Route 84.— GBIKDELWALD TO MEYRIKGEN. tenberg and Eijjher formed but one mass, behind which was a lake ot considerable size. Route 84. GRINDELWALD TO MEY- RINGEN, BY THE GREAT SCHEIDECK. ^^-ji^HlS route is about 18 rxS5 'r^A Tiiilocin lor,o-tl. Tlirpp Tliree fG miles in lenotli. :'^ miles up the valley, a ^ little to the right of the path, is the Upper Glacier of Grin- delwald. From Grindelwald to the top of the Scheideck is a third of the journey to Meyringen. On the right, at every point of the way, the Wetterliorn (" Storm-peak") rises in a bare wall, apparently close to the path ; from which however, its base is distant a quarter of an hour's walk. The ground is by no means difficult. From the heiglit of the Great Scheideck the view back upon Grindelwald is very fine. From the Great Scheideck, down into the valley of Hasli, at Mey- ringen, the trip is one of exceed- ing magnificence. Before reach- ing the baths of Rosenlaui, a footpath to the right leads to the glacier of Rosenlaui, so deno- minated from the extreme beauty of its roseate and azure colours. It lies between the great masses of the Wellhorn and Engelhbrner (" Angels' peaks"), its fir-clad base, and its gigantic craggy frame, forming a most remarkable scene. In summer a torrent comes roar- ing down an almost fathomless rent in the mountain. We descend beside the torrent, whicli is im- petuously plunging and foaming to take the leap of the Reichen- bach, when suddenly the vale of Meyringen is disclosed far beneath us, with its villages and meadows, church-steeples, and clumps of trees, and the Alpbach cascade pouring over the crags on the other side. From this point the descent into the valley is nearly 2,000 feet, rugged and precipitous ; and from nearly this level, the Reichenbach torrent takes its great leap down a gorge to the left of the path making the celebrated Reichenbach Falls. Afterwards, by a succession of leaps, it falls down into the valley, where it joins the Aar. About a mile and a half from the last fall, and on the right bank of the Aar, is the village of Mey- ringen, containing 2,525 inhabi- tants. ( Hotels: Sauvage,* Cou ronne). The view of the Reichenbach Falls, the Engelhbrner, the snow-clad Wetterliorn, and the Rosenlaui glacier, from the village, is very charming. The Hasli vale, of which Meyringen is the capital, is reckoned a model of an Alpine valley. The climate is soft ; the view includes numberless hamlets, waterfalls, and hills covered with verdure, glaciers, and snow-clad mountains. The inhabitants of the Hasli valley once had a finer organi- zation, more personal beauty, and a more melodious dialect than those of most other parts of Swit- zerland. From Meyringen, Brienz may be reached twice daily by dili- gence, distance, 9 miles. See Route 82. Route So.— MEYRINGEN TO HOSPEXTllAf.. 371 passiiifj Route 85. MEYRINGEN TO IIOSPEN- TJIAL, BY THE GRLMSEL HOSPICE AND THE FURCA PASS. (To Grimsel, 7^ hours ; horse, 20 fraucs.) CARRIAGE- ROAD hiis been coiii])lcted from -Meyriiifjen over the Kirchet,tolni-Hot'; Reiclienbiich J5:iths, it ascends the steep sidi'S of Kircliet in ziifzaijs. Descending^ tlie hill it traverses the meadows at tlie bottom of the valley, and crosses the Aar near Im-Hof {Hntel: Im Hof), just beyond which the carriage-road terminates. Pur- suing' the well-kept bridle-path, we reach in '2!^ hours GuTTANEN (Hotel : Biir), which lies in a wild and narrow valley, surrounded with crags and cliffs. A walk of two hours brings us to the path which, leading out of the main path to the left, conducts us to tlie P'all of the Handek. The view from the chalet lower down is finer, as tlie cataract is then seen from below. This fall is considered the finest in Switzer- land, and in point of impetuosity and quantity of water resembles Schaffhausen ; its height is about two hundred feet. The body of the water is very great during the summer, when the snow from the mountains and the glaciers has been melted. At the same spot b seen the stream of tlie Erlen- bach, running nearly at a riglit angle with the Aar: it falls as if in humble rivalry with its more noble associate, and throws its sheet of water into that of the Aar, long before tJie latter re;iche8 the ground, thus producing a beautiful erti'Ct. A walk of S^i hours brings us to the lios])ice of the Grimsel, which stands about 800 ft. below the summit of the J'ass. Itis a rough, strong rock building, and is now used as an inn. It is much thronged with tourists in summer. Its entourai^e is the most dreary in all Switzerland. On all sides and above, it is frowned uj)ou by shapeless mountains, covered with ice and snow. Its elevation above the sea is more than 7,000 ft., and the peaks rise nearly to the height of aiioUier thousand. The distance from Grimsel to Ilospeiillial is about 19 miles. 'J he distance from the Hospice to the Rhone glacier is about six miles. Three-quarters of an hour's walking up a tolerable path brings us to the top of the pass, where, at u height of 8,400 ft. above the sea-level, the way skirts the left margin of a little, dark, still lake, into which the bodies of French and Austrian soldiers, killed in the skirmish which took place here in 17yy, were thrown. It therefore goes by the name of the " Lake of the Dead." lieyond the lake tlie road leads down a steep declivity. At a little distance we come suddenly upon the view of the glacier of the Rh6iie, very far below ; a grand object, with the furious Rhone issuing from the ice, and then leaping and dashing through the valley. The glacier is a stu- pendous mass of ice, extending clear across the valley, propjieu against an overhanging mountain (the GallfHStock), with snowy peaks towering to the right and left. From the Rhone glacier to the Furca is about '2g hours. The 372 Route 85.— MEYRINGEN TO HOSPENTHAL. traveller, keeping the east side of the valley, has the glacier on his left for some distance. The path then turns to the right, and enters a wild-looking, treeless defile, where the only traces of human hahitations to be met with are a few goatherds' huts. On the Furca Pass is the boun- dary between the Cantons Valais and Uri, and within a circle of little more than 10 miles around are the sources of five prominent rivers, some of them among the largest in f2urope : the Rhine, the Rhone, the Reuss, the Ticino, and the Aar. The Furca is about 8,200 ft. above the sea-level, and in clear weather commands a fine view of the Oberland range, which is seen on the side exactly opposite that discerned from the Mmster platform at Berne. A carriage road from Ober Gesteln and the Rhone Glacier, over the Furca was finished in 1866. A diligence crosses daily from Brieg, on the Simplon Pass, to Andermatt, on the St. Gothard Pass. The descent from the inn at the Furca to Hospenthal is made in If hours. Descending the Furca, on the other side, the road leads frequent- ly along the verges of dangerous banks ; the country is devoid of trees, the grass is stunted and short, and no human abode is met with until the traveller comes to the little hamlet of Realp, which is about four miles from Hospen- thal, and consists of four or five houses and a convent. Hospenthal (see Route 81). Route 86. GENEVA TO LAUSANNE AND VEVAY, INCLUD- ING THE LAKE OF GE- NEVA. ENEVA (Hofe/s; de la Paix, *des Bergues,* DE i.'Ecu,* DE Beau Rivage,*Metropole,* Couronne* Riissie), population, 48,000, is situated at the southern extremity of the Lake, at the point where the Rhone emerges. The two halves into which the city is divided by the river are connected by six bridges, the finest of which is the Pont du Mont Blanc, lead- ing from the Rue du Mont Blanc to the English garden. Next below it is the Pont des Bergues, and from it a suspension bridge extends to the little island called Rousseau's Island, in the centre of which is Pradier's statue of Rousseau, erected by the citizens of Geneva in 1834. Fine quays, upon which are the best shops, extend along both banks of the Rhone in the vicinity of these bridges. On the left bank is the Grand Quai, and on the right the Quai des Bergues. The Quai du Mont Blanc extends along the right bank of the lake, commencing at the Pont du Mont Blanc. Be- yond, and in a line with it, is the Quai des Paquis, which is hand- somely planted with trees. It extends to the Pier. From both the last-named quays fine views of the Mont Blanc group may be enjoyed. On the south bank of the lake, at the end of the Pont du Mont Blanc, is a pretty garden called the Jardin Anglais. In a pavilion in the garden is a plan in relief of ftlont Blanc, which is shown to visitors for 50 centimes, GENEVA Appleton's Kviropeaii Guid.^ Book. Malbv Jc Sons.Londou LAUSAN N E. GENEVA SWITZERLAND. Route 86.— GENEVA TO LAUSAyyE. .373 except on Sundays and Thurs- days, from 10 to 3, when it is free. Geneva possesses within it.self very tew objects of interest. Few towns of its size and importance are so sparingly decorated with public monuments. Strangers are attracted to it from its beautiful f»osition and the scenery of its ake, and because of its vicinity to Chamouni and other points of interest. The principal buildings are the Cathedral of 6't. Pierre, the Hotet- de-Vttle, the arsenal, the college (founded by Calvin), the museum of natural history, the botanical garden, and the public library, founded by Bonnivard, the prisoner of Chillon, containing 50,000 volumes, and a collection of auto- graph letters by Calvin and other distinguished Reformers. The doctrines of tlie Reformation met with zealous support in Geneva, and upon Calvin taking up his residence permanently in the town, after the Reformed religion was established by law, Geneva became the centre of education for the Protestant youth of Great BriUiin, Germany, and France. The names of many eminent men are identified with the town, either by birth or adoption. A- mong these are Necker, the i^Iinis- ter of Louis XVI. ; Saussure, the naturalist; DecandoUe; Deloline; Sismondi, the historian ; Lefort ; Le Sage, and Jean Jacques Rous- seau. Merle D'Aubigne, author of the History of the Reformation, was a preacher at the Oratoire. The house occupied by Calvin is No. 11, Rue des Clianoines. Rousseau lived at J\o. 40, Grande Rue. Geneva is celebrated for its watches and mii^icat bo.ies. The watchmakers of the greatest re- pute, and who are most recom- mendabli', are I'atek, Phili[>pe Ct Co.,2'.i, Grand Quai, He.ss & Met- ford, 11, Grand Quai, A. Golay Leresche & Sons, 31, Quai di*9 ]iergues,and No.l, Placeilu Port, Grand Quai, and Reynaud&c Gla- tou, iio. Grand Quai. The largest and most reputable manufacturers of musical boxes are li. A. Br6- mond & Co., 7, Rue Pradier, and 11. Rivenc & Co., Place des .\lpes, close to the Hotel de la Paix. A large proportion of all the musical boxes sold in Switzerland are from these two manufactories. English booksellers, .Monroe, 32, Grand Quai, and Richard, 56, Rue du Rhone, near the Pont du Mont, Blanc. P2nglish Chemist and Druggist, Geo. Baker, No. 2, Place des Bergues, who has es- tablishments also at Nice and Rome. Fernev, the celebrated resi- dence of X'oltaire, is distant about 5 miles from Geneva, on the French territory. An omnibus runs thither hourly in summer, by the road to Gex, passing over a heigiit which commands one of the best views of Mont Blanc. It was in 1759 that \'oltaire quitted his country house, " Les Delices," and went to reside at Ferney. He found only a few wretched hovels, but from that dat(% whether owing to the activity which he displayed, or the numerous society which was attracted there by his renown, Ferney increased rapidly ; so, that in 1777, when he left for Paris, it counted 1, '200 inhabitants. The chateau, built under his direction, is situated on a height to the left of the high road. The facade, which fronts the road, instead of looking out towards the best view, is long, without depth, and has no architectural pretensions. The saloon and sleeping chamber of \'oltaire, which, until IHiJ, had been permitted to reuuiiu in tlie Route 86.— GENEVA TO LAUSANNE. Switzerland. State in which he had left them, were then appropriated to a new destination. In the gcarden is shown the herceau under which he used to dictate his letters to Iiis secretary. The theatre, formerly on the left side of the court, has been pulled down, as likewise has the Church, upon which was the inscription, " Deo erexit Voltaire." The Lake of Geneva, or Lake Leman, is 45 miles long, and varies in width from li to 8^ miles, containing an area of about 260 square miles. The Rhone flows witli considerable rapidity into it at its eastern extremity. It rises several feet during the summer months, owing to the melting of the snow on the heights beneath which the Rhone makes its way. It is also subject to sudden currents and risings, which as rapidly subside, and are pro- bably due to atmospheric causes. Steamers leave Geneva several times a day. They keep along the western shore. The first place reached is Versoix, a village whicli was formerly the territory of France. Here the Due de Choiseul, Minister of Louis XV., designed the foundation of a city, wliich should prove a rival to Geneva. The next place is Cop- pet, {Hotels : Croix Blanche, Ange), a little town of 600 in- habitants, built on the margin of the lake, on which it has a port. The chateau, remarkable for the souvenirs which it calls up, is on a height which commands the town. It is a large plain building, erected on the site of a feudal castle, which, in 1536, sustained a siege against the Bernese, and was in part destroyed by fire. The learned Bayle lived here many years as a tutor in the family of Count Dolina, The minister Necker also passed here in honour- able retirement the latter years of his life. His daughter, Madame de Stall, who long inliabited it, is buried at this place in a monu- mental tomb with her father, her mother, and the eldest of her sons. Nyots from this confluence, and five minutes beyond is the gallery 380 Route Q7.— GENEVA TO MILAN. Switzerland. of Algabi. Upon emerging from this g-allerj the road enters the gorge of Gondo, one of the wildest and most fearful glens in Switzer- land. We now pass the eighth refuge, and a little distance be- yond it cross the torrent by il ponte alto, near which is the ninth refuge. A little beyond is the famous gallery of Gondo, one of the finest witnesses to the skill and energy which constructed his magnificent road. In this gallery is a marble tablet with the inscription, ^'^Ere halo, 1803, Nap. Imp." Just at the exit of this gallery the Frassinone leajjs from a considerable height. A bridge is carried over the fall. The rocky walls rise almost per- pendicularly on both sides of the gorge to a giddy height. About half an hour's walk further is GoNDo, the last Valaisan village. Near the chapel, ten minutes be- yond Gondo, is the Italian fron- tier, marked by a granite column, and five minutes below it is St. Marco, the first Italian village. At Isella {Hotel: Posta) is the Italian Custom-house. The dili- gences drag heavily through the sand and debris for about eight miles, when the road crosses the Doveria for the last time by a bridge of two arches, 90 ft. high, and reaches the village of Crevola. Here issues the River Toccia or Tosa, and we descend into the Val d'Ossola. Here the traveller im- mediately recognises by the cli- mate that he is in Italy. We soon afterwards arrive at Domo d'Ossola (Hotels: d'Espagne, de I'ille), population 2,480. The town is uninteresting, but the neighbourhood is beautiful, and affords many pleasant excursions. The road now goes along the valley of the Tosa to Vogogna. Here we cross the Tosa, and re- cross it a little further on, near Ornavasso, in the vicinity of which are the marble quarries out of which were brought the stones of Milan Cathedral. We cross the Strona at Gravellona. This river works several cotton-mills, which we may observe in the neighbourhood. At Fariolo (Hotel: Lion d'Or) we obtain a glimpse of the Lago Maggiore, and the Isola Madre. Here are quarries of beautiful red granite, and felspar is found in abun- dance. We proceed to Baveno (Hotels: Belle Vue, de la Poste), which is situated on the lake, and is a convenient spot from which to visit the Borromean islands. (The Lago Maggiore has been described in Route'^81.) Stresa is soon passed, and after a few miles we arrive at Arona {Hotels: Alhergo d' Italia^ Reale), whicli is the terminus of the route by diligence. This is the chief port ot the lake stea- mers. (See Route 81.) We now join the railway, and skirt the lake to Sesto Calende, passing which we traverse the plain of the Ticino towards the heights of La Somma. We have a beautiful view of the Alps, in- cluding Monte Rosa, as we as- cend to Somma. Here we may see an immense cypress, said to have been in existence in the time of Julius Cffisar. We begin now to descend the eastern slopes of the Somma hills, and reach Galla- rate. Here a branch-line goes off to Varese, 26 miles distant. W' e pass some unimportant places, and arrive at Rho (231 miles), where we join the line from Turin to Milan. The Ti-iumphal Arch is seen shortly before enter- ing Milan. For a description of this city see Route 123). SWITZERLAND. Route QQ.— GENEVA TO CHAMOUNI. 381 Route 88. GENEVA TO CHAMOUNI. I LICENCES run seve- ral times a day to St. .Martin or Sallenches, jrs=i5i. from vvliich carria<;es are taken on to Chamouni, tlie whole distance beins^ 33^ miles. After leaving Geneva we see, on the left, the \'oirons, and on the rig^ht, the chain of the Jura mountains and Mont Saleve, witli the Chateau de .Mornex forming^ a conspicuous object in the fore- ground. We first reach Chesne, situated on the Seime, and soon after passing it, cross tlie Foron, which divides the canton of Ge- neva from Savoy. The French frontier village is Annemasse, near which we see the Mole, rising to a heidit of 5,800 ft. We now proceed along the valley of the Arve, passing Nangy and Contamines, at which latter place we see the ruins of the Chateau, de Faitcignij, and pass close to the Mole, which bears an obelisk, one of the land-marks of the trigonometrical survey of Savoy. This mountain can be ascended from BoNNKviLLE (172 miles), ( Hoteh: Courojine, Batnnces), once. a place of 3,000 inhabitants, but now containing only half that number. Here the Arve is crossed by a bridge, at one end of which is a column 95 ft. high, bearing a statue of Carlo Felice, in whose honour it was erected. Cr.rsis (Jloteh: Parfaite Uiihyn, Ken de France), a town of 1,600 inhabi- tants, has frequently been de- stroyed by fire. A considerable trade is done here in the pre- paration of the movements of watcliHS, wliich are finished at Cieneva. We now proceed along the bank of the river through a ravine, above whicli towi-r lofty precii)ices, here and there over- lianging the road, and elsewhere clotlied witii woods. As the valley widens, we obtain a view, on the left, of the Grotto of Balme, to which a visit may be made on mules from the village of La lialme. This cave is 800 ft. above the river, and is 600 yards deep. Above five miles beyond Maglan we j)ass the waterfall of Xuiit d'Arpenaz, one of the highest in the country. Tlie volume of water falling over the precipice is very small, and it vanishes into spray bt'fore it reaches the valley. Soon afterwards we see, on the left, the summit of the Aiguille de Vurens, rising 8,000 ft. above the sea level. The next place is St. ^Lartin (36 miles), (Hotels: du Mont Blanc, Croix BLinche). The Arve is here crossed by a bridge, from which tliere is an imposing view of Mont Blanc, with the Aiguille du Goute, and the Dome du Gouter. On the other side of the bridge is Sal- lenches {Hotel: Believue), a town of 1,981 inhabitants. At one of these towns smaller carriages are taken to Chamouni. Proceed- ing along the valley of the Arve, we next reach Servoz (Hotel: L'Univers), from which the view of the dome of Mont Blanc is magnificent. The road then crosses the Dioza, and extends along the foat of the Brevent. At Pont Pelissier we see the ruined Castle of St. Michael, and, cross- ing tiie bridge, ascend a steep and rough road up a height called I.es Montets, while the Arve, on the left, rushes along down a 382 Route 88.— GEA^EO TO CHAMOUNI. SWITZERLAND. series of cascades. We now de- scend into the valley of Chamou- nix, and reach the village of Les Ouches, some distance beyond which we cross the Arve, below the Glacier des Bossons, and soon afterwards reach Chamouni (53§ miles), (Hotels: Imperial, Royal, Union, d'Angle- terre, Mont Blanc), population 2,300. This village is situated in a wild and romantic valley at the north foot of Mont Blanc. The valley is about 13 miles long, and 2 broad, and is watered by the Arve. On the north side lies Mont Brecent, and behind it the chain of the Aiguilles Rouges. On the south rises the giant group of Mont Blanc, from which enor- mous glaciers reach almost to the bottom of the valley. The chief of these glaciers, are the Glaciers des Bossons, Merde Glace, and des Bois, d'Argentiire, and du Tour. The village has little business, but de- pends almost entirely for its pros- perity upon the crowds of tourists who flock to it during the sum- mer months, and who make its enormous hotels their residence, while making the various interest- ing excursions in the neighbour- hood. These excursions are di- vided into two classes. Courses Ordinaires, and Courses Eitra- ordinaires, for which there are charges fixed by tariff, wliich tariff may be inspected at the office of the Guide en. Chef, where appli- cation must also be made for guides. The guides are inscribed in a book kept for that purpose, and are of very various qualifications for their office. As a rule they are required to be taken in turn. The charges are as follows : Glacier des Bossons and Cascades du Dad, 4^ francs ; Brevent, by Plampraz, 8 francs, by the Plegere, 10 francs ; iMontanvert, Mer de Glace, Chapeau, and Flegere, in one day, 12 francs ; Pierre de I'Echelie, 10 francs ; Jardin and back, by Chapeau, 12 francs; Martigny, by Col de Balme, or Tete JNoire (return included), 12 francs. For the Courses Extraordinaires the charges are as follows : Ascent of Mont Blanc, 100 francs. Grand Mulcts and back in one day, 20 francs. Courmayeur, by the Col du Geant, 60 francs. Col du Tour and back, 20 francs. Glacier excursions on the Mont Blanc chain above the zone of vegetation, per day, 10 francs. Excursion to Montanvert, THE Mer de Glace and the Chapeau. The Montanvert is, properly speaking, a mountain pasturage at an elevation of 5,724 ft. above the level of the sea. It is at the foot of the point of Charmoz, and precisely above the valley of ice, whose lower extremity is called the Glacier des Bois. Of the various excursions about Cha- mouni, this is the one most fre- quently made, because it affords a magnificent view of the sea of ice and its surrounding mountains. It is easy to descend from thence on to the glacier. The path from Chamouni to Montanvert is practicable for mules, and affords an easy walk or ride of about 2^ hours. On quitting the village, the road, after passing the bridge over the Arve in front of the Royal Hotel, crosses the valley through a succession of meadows and fields, and then winds steeply upwards until, in from 2J to 3 hours, the small inn is reached which stands on the Montanvert. During the ascent we have ob- tained through the open spaces and at various turns, an almost uninterrupted \aew of the valley SWITZERLAND. Route 88.— GENEVA TO CUAMOUXI. 383 of Chamouni ; but on arriving at JMoutanvert the scene clianges. In- stead of a valley and lields, we find ourselves on the brink of a preci])ice Inuiging over a scene worthy of tlie Arctic regions, a large sea of ice and snow. "it seems as if the waves of the ocean liad, during a teni])est, been seized by the giant hand of Winter, and fixed indelibly in the fantastic posi- a south-westerly direction, and, uniting itself to the continua- tion of ice which descends from the summit of Mont iilanc, takes the name of the Glacier du Cjeant. Those who wish to cross the INIer de Glace, and by the Mau- vais Pas, to the Chapeau, may send their mules to meet them at the foot of the Chapeau. ,^^ < 4& CHAMOUNI. tions they had Jissumed. Around extends a rampart of colossal rocks, whose crumbling sunmiits attest the influences of many thousand seasons, and whose sterile gran- deur has an imposing eftect on the mind." This frozen stream, the ;\Ier de Glace, ends in what at the bottom of the valley is termed the (ilacier des Bois. At the up])er ex- tremity it forms two branches, the eastern one is called the Gla- cier de Lechaud, the other takes The crossing is not dangerous, but eacli lady will require a guide to assist her. The Jar din. This excursion occupies about eight hours from .Montanvert. It may be made from Chamouni in about fourteen hours. It is ad- visable to take a guide for each person. The Mer de Glace is traversed .is far as the foot of the Seracs de Tulcfre — the precipitous 384 Route 88.— GENEVA TO CHAMOUNL Switzerland.' slope of the Glacier Talefre. Hence the tourist has to scramble over moraines and rocks, some of which are rather difficult and fatiguing. This excursion affords the most imposing survey of the wildernesses of the Mont Blanc g^oup. The Jardin is a steep rock, rising out of the midst of the gla- cier, and derives its name from the few flowers which bioom upon it for some weeks in summer. Glacier des Bossons. This glacier is scarcely an hour and a half distant from Chamou- ni. Its near margin is easy of access. After crossing the bridge over the Arve on the road to Gene- va, a path commences at the vil- lage des Bossons, and leads to the eastward, along thesideof astream which issues from the foot of the glacier. To this succeed a few fields and a fir-wood, whence a steep ascent conducts us to the border of the glacier. Immense jjyramids and obelisk - shaped blocks distinguish the upper part of the glacier. Its exterior is of a white and brilliant appearance, nearly free from earth or gravi ], owing to the action upon its surface of the rays of the sun. In some places it reflects little colour; in others, especially where any clefts or fissures occur, the interior is of a beautiful blue or sea-green. The snows of the summit of Mont Blanc are the source of this glacier, whence it descends to the border of the Arve. Although much narrower than the Glacier des Bois, it presents the same un- dulating appearance. In other respects it differs from the latter ; its pale and blue colours being more pure and brilliant. The Glacier des Bois and Mer de Glace resemble the congealed waves of a large river or cataract. The Fleg'ere. This excursion, which requires about five liours, is one of the most admirable tliat can be made on horseback. The road leads up the valley, passing tlirough the village les Pres, and arrives at the foot of the mountain. A zigzag path ascends along a continual forest of larch and fir, and affords a fine view of the opposite glacier. We follow the patli under the shade of the fir-trees, which continue al- most to the summit of the Flegere. I'his mountain pasturage is covered with perpetual verdure, and wa- tered by several springs. An iron cross, at an elevation of 6,350 ft. marks its highest point. A short distance above it is a small chalet for the reception of tra- vellers and the sale of refresh- ments. This point commands one of the most comprehensive views of the whole valley. It includes every glacier in the valley, and the general range of Mont Blanc, though it is by no means equal to the view from the Brevent. In front, from the source of the Arveiron to the foot of the Tacul, lies an uninterrupted view of the Mer de Glace, and of the rocks which border its banks. The summit of Mont Blanc is seen on the right. The Aiguille Verte, at an elevation of 13,432 ft. stands out plainly on the east side of the Mer de Glace; having at a short distance from it the Aiguille du Dru and the Aiguille d'Ar- gentiere. The vault which ter- minates the glacier of Argentiere, and whence a branch of the Arve issues, as the Arveiron from the Glacier des Bois, is distinctly visi- ble. There is also a clear view of SWITZERLAND. Route m.—GES EVA TO CIIAMOUNI. 305 the Col dn Balmo, with the path leading to its summit. An excursion may be made to the Col de Balme and to the Tete Noire and back in nine hours. The route is described in Route 89. The number of tourists who make the ascent of Mont Blanc or who make an effort to reach even the Grand ]\Iulets, is so small tiiat we shall ^ive no directions for these excursions. Those which we have described include all Route 89. MARTIGXY TO CHAMUU- M, BY THE TETE NOlllE. REAVING Martigrnywe proceed to INIarti^ny-le- Bour in the afternoon fre- quently spend the night here. St. Nicholas was greatly injured by the earthquake of 18o.j. \\ e now proceed through a pleasantly di- versified country along the right bank of the river to Randa (21 miles), situated near the point where the glacier of Bies de- scends from the Weisshorn. The lofty JMischabel range of peaks, being on the left of the valley, now come into view. Further on, we pass along close to the river, and through an excavation in the rock, beyond which we obtain a good view of the grand peak of the Matterhom (Mont Cer- vin), and soon reach Zersiatt (27f miles). (Hotels: Mont Cer- vin, (lit Mont Rose), population 430. (The hotels are frequently much crowded in summer.) It is situated in the midst of pasture lands in a valley overlooked by the Alatterhorn, and upwards of 5,000 feet above the sea. The Matterhorn is 1 Ij^OS ft., high, aad with the exception of its remarkable peak, is covered with glaciers. Tlie hotel on the Riffel- berg, about five miles from Zer- matt, is a convenient pl.ace from whicli to ascend Monte Rosa, the Goriier Griit, and visit the CiiJr- ner glacier. Zermatt is called the Chamouni of Mont Rosa, because tlie environs furnish so manj- interesting excursions. The number of visitors to this interes- ting neighbourhood is increasing every year. Route 91. MARTIGNY TO THE GREAT ST. BERNARD. ; ETTING out from Mar- tigny-la- Villa, we pro- ceed to Martigny-le- Bourg, and then cross to the left bank of the Drance, leaving the village of La Croix about half a mile to our right, and ascend the course of the Drance by the villages of Brocard and A'alette to Bouvernier. Beyond this village, the road again crosses the river, which issues from a gorge, which grows wilder as we advance. Half an hour's walking brings us to the Gaterie de la Moiiiioije. At its outlet are seen the ruins of a monastery, still overlaid with the soil and rub- bish with whicli it was covered in 1818, by an irruption of the lake into the \'al de Bagnes, which at this point opens upon our valley. The cata-strophe caused great damage in the valley of the Dranse, traces of which are visible in several places. The village of Bouvernier was saved by the rock wliich projects before it. The road here again crosses to the left bank of the Dranse, and at St. Branchier, a dirty village, the 388 Route 91.— MARTIGNY TO GREAT ST. BERNARD. two branches which form the Drance unite, one having come down from St. Bernard, and the other from the Val d' Entremont. Orsieres, {Hotel: des Alpes), is a little village situated at tlie point where the Val de Ferret opens into the Val d' Entremont. The most picturesque section of the Pass is just above the village. We next reach Liddes, {Hotels: de I' Union, d' Angleterre), where mules may be procured for the Hospice (charge, 6 francs). St Pierre is a dirty village, with a church built in the eleventh century, having a Roman mile- stone let into the wall, near the tower. A pillar is shown here which was originally set up on the crest of the St. Bernard Pass to the memory of the younger Constan- tine. On the other side of St. Pierre, the route crosses a deep hollow, in which the Drance, pouring here out of the Orsey thai, forms a pretty fall. The way formerly led through the forest, across rocks and the stumps of trees, so that when Buonaparte crossed the Great St. Bernard (in May 1800) with liis army, they had a difficult march through the forest, and over the precipices of St. Pierre. They dismounted the cannon from their carriages, put them in the hollow trunks of trees, and then one half the bat- talions dragged them up the mountain, while the other half carried the arms and accoutre- ments of their comrades. For some distance up from St. Pierre, the road lies through the fir forest, where Napoleon so nearly lost his life by slipping from his mule on the verge of the precipice. He was only saved from falling into the gulf by his guide, who caught him by the coat. Beyond the forest, and the de- file of Cherrayre, we come to the pasturages and chalets of Proz, and in about three quarters of an hour, arrive at the plain of Proz. Mount Velan, at this part of the journey, appears of enormous size. The road now ascends through a gorge, called the defile of Marengo. About two hours farther, we reach Cantine de Proz, the last habitable spot in a most desolate defile, utterly bare of trees and shrubs, gloomy and wild, just where the steep ascent of the Grand St. Ber- nard commences. The path from this point circles the precipices, and crosses the torrent, and scales the declivities in such a manner, that one may well imagine how dangerous must be the passage in winter. The traveller comes suddenly upon the Hospice of the Great St. Bernard, from the Alpine side ; its stone steps almost hanging down over precipitous gulfs. The Hospice is on the very summit of the Pass, 8,200 ft. above the level of the sea. It is a stone building, capable of shelter- ing 300 persons. Five or six hundred sometimes receive suc- cour in one day. One of the houses near tlie Hospice was erected as a place of refuge in case of fire in the main building. Sometimes the snow drifts encircle the walls of the Hospice to the height of 40 ft. ; but it is said that the severest cold recorded here was only 29 degrees below zero. The ; eatest degree of heat re- cordt^ at the Hospice, has been 68 degrees. The air has a piercing sharpness, which makes a fire necessary even at noon-day in summer. The monastery was founded about 962, according to some, by St. Bernard of Menthon ; other traditions ascribe its origin to Charlemagne, or Louis the Route 91— MAJlTiaXY TO GREAT ST. BERXARD. 389 Pious. The duties of hospitality are dischargt'd by ten or twelve Augustine monks, assisted by a number of serviug-brotliors calh'd Maronniers. The monks remain at the Hospice only for a limited term of service. In general, the brotiier- hood consists of young recruits, whose constitutions can bear but for a few years the constant cold and the keen air of these heights. JNluch of their time is occupied in the daily exercises of the clia]>el. A guest-chamber, or hall, is kejit for travellers, apart from tlie re- fectory of the monks ; ordy two or three of the elder among whom are accustomed to entertain stran- gers. They have a very nice cliapel adorned with paintings, and in it is a "tronc, ' or charity box, where travellers who partake of the hosjtitality of the kind monks ordinarily de])Osit alms, not of less amount than they would be charged at an inn, tliough the shelter and entertainmejit are entirely without charge. The hospice is spacious, and the bedrooms for strangers are very neat and com- fortable. A pleasant tire is always burning in the guest-hall for tra- vellers. A piano decorates this room, the gift of an liinglish lady. The register of the names of visitors abounds with interesting autographs. There is a mufieum in a hall adjoining the strangers' refectory. The collection of medals and an- tique coins is good, and there are some portraits, painting ' and engravings. A scene of interest at the hos- pice is the morgue, or building where the dead bodies of lost tra- vellers are dei)osited. The floor is covered with skulls and bones. The little lake before the hos- pice does not melt till July, and freezes again in Sepb^mber, and in some seasons is not free from ice at any time. The snow falls almost every day in the year. Tiie journey to .^osta, on the Italian side, occupies a little over six hours. The route is by St. Kemy and St. Oyen. AosiA {Hotels: dn Mont BUinc, Couronne, Ecu du Vuhiis), a town of 7,700 inhabitants, the Augusta Fratoria of the Romans, is beau- tifully situated near the confluence of the Doire and the Huttier, in a valley, from many parts of which IMont Hlancand the range near the Great St. Bernard are visible. It is encircled by mountains whose sides are clothed with vineyards. There are many interesting me- diieval Italian houses in various parts of the town, and important Koman remains. On the south are some vestiges of Roman walls, in tolerably good preservation, and on the east a Triumphal Arch with ten Corinthian columns. A ear it is a gateway, formerly the Porta Pra'toriu, now called the Porte de la Triuitc, and, a little distance oflT, a Roman bridge which once crossed the Buttier. It is partially buried. In the garden of the convent of St. John are some remains of an ancient Basilica. John Calvin resided at Aosta for some time previous to l.iH. Anselm, .\rchbishop of Canterbury in the eleventh cen- tury, was born here. 390 Route 92. —GENEVA TO BALE. Switzerland. KouTE 92. GENEVA TO BALE, BY FREYBURG AND BERNE. 165 miles ; 1st class, 28"60 francs 2nd, 20-20 francs; 3rd, 14-70 francs. ;N leaving Geneva the railway skirts the north shore of the lake, past numerous pleasant villas and gardens. The first station we reach is CoprEx (10 miles). The Chdteau was for some time the residence of Madame de Stael, and previously of her father, M. Necker. The room in which the authoress composed many of her works is shown, together with the inkstand and desk which she used. In the grounds is a chapel where she and her father are buried. We next pass Kyon (the Roman Novidunuvi), from which there is a carriage road up the hills to St. Cergues, the most con- venient spot from which the ascent of the Dole may be made. The next station is Rolle (22 miles), (Hotels: Couronne, TSte Noire). The neighbourhood abounds with vineyards,which pro .luce, amongst other wines, the celebrated kind called La Cote. On the other side of the lake the summit of Mont Blanc may be seen, and, a little further on, the heights of Meil- lerie and the opening of the Valais. MoRCES (31 miles), (Hotel: La Couronne), a town ot 2,900 in- habitants, is situated on tlie lake. We see the Castle of Vujflens, re- puted to have been built by Queen Bertha in the tenth cen- tury. Part of the existing struc- ture seems to be of the thirteenth century. We now leave the lake and proceed to Bussigny Junction (28f miles), where the railway to Yverdun and Neuchatel joins the Geneva line. The train, however, generally goes on to Lausanne (39 miles), (see Route 93), and then returns to Bussigny. After leaving the Lausanne Station, there is a fine view of the Lake of Geneva, the valley of the Rhone, and the mountains beyond it, as we approach the tunnel through which we reach Chexbres-Vevay (47 miles), the station for Vevay. Passing some other stations, we have a view of Mont Blanc, before reaching RoMONT {66^ miles), beautifully situated on an eminence over- looking the Glane. The old Castle was built in the 10th cen- tury, by the kings of Burgundy. Beyond Romont, on the right, we see the nunnery o( La-Fille-Dieu, backed by a range of mountains among which we may distinguish the Dent du Midi and the Mole^ son. We next reach Freyburg (81 miles) (Hotels: Ziihringer HoJ,* de Freyburg), population 10,600. It is the capital of the canton of the same name. It was founded in 1175 by Berthold of Ziihringen. It stands on a rocky eminence sur- rounded by the Saarine. The pic- turesque situation of the town overhanging the river, the beauti- ful suspension bridges, and quaint watchtowers not being visible from the railway, tourists should tarry here for a few hours. The banks of the river are united by four bridges, one of them being a susjiension bridge of 906 ft. long, and 175 ft. above the stream. On the opposite side of the River Saarine is another sus- pension bridge, which spans the gorge of Gotteron. It is about 700 ft. long, and 284 ft. above the valley beneath. There are some fine churches, the most remark- able being the Cathedral of St. SWITZERLAND. Route 9'2. —G EN EVA TO BALE. 391 Nichotaii, a liaiulsonie Gothic structure of tlie l.jth century, containiiiij an orj^an wliich lias 7,800 l>il><'S, and 67 stojjS, and is consiilcrcd one ot" the finest in- struments in Europe. Perfor- mances on the onj^an every even- ing' (exci'])t Satur(hiys and the eve of lioli(hiys) from 8 to 9. Tickets, whicli cost one franc each, may be had at tlie hotels. The tower of the church is 386 ft. high, and is distinguished for the delicacy and elegance of its architecture. Its portal has some curious reliefs emblematical of the Last Judgment, and Jleaven and Hell. Other objects of interest in the town are the Byzantine Church, in the tbrm of a rotunda, ■with a dome; tJie Capuchin Church, with a " Descent from the t'ross," by Annibale Caracci ; the Church of the JJarefoot .Monks, a large and handsome building; the Jesuit Churcli ; the llfilel de VUle, a remarkable old building, erected on the site of the palace of the ancient dukes of Zahringen, the founders of Berne ; the Jesuit College and the Lyceum. In the principal square is a lime tree said to have been planted in 1476, on the day of the battle of Morat. The street called Court Chemin, leading from the river to the upper town, is built on the face of the rock, and tiie roofs of some of its houses serve as pavement for the street above it. The in- habitants are curiously dividt'd in respect of language, those of the upper town speaking IVench, and those of the lower town German. On leaving Freyburg, we pass by the old walls of the town, and cross the Saarine over a viaduct 260 ft. high, and about 1,100 ft. long. AVe pass several places of no interest, and reach Berne (98 miles). (Ilotih: Bernerhof,* Belteiue, Fauam), population 29,364, the cajntal of Switzerland. It is situated ou a lofty ])romontory, 1,700 ft. alwve the sea, formed by the winding Aar, which surrounds it on three siiles, and is crossed by two stone bridges. It is one of the most regularly built towns in Europe, and is the finest in .Switzerland. Many of the houses are massive structures, resting upon arcades, which are lined with shops, and furnish covered walks on both sides of the street, the latter being adorned with numerous fountains. The environs atlbrd fine prome- nades, and from the platform on which the Ciiihedral stands, the view of the Bernese Aljis is very fine. Six of the most celebrated peaks are in view upon clear days. On the east is the Wetter- horn, next are the Sclireckhorn, the Einster-Aarhorn, the Eiger, the iMiinch, the Jungfrau, the Gletscher-liorn, the JNlittaghorn, and tiie Blumlis Alp. The principal jiublic buildings are the Cathedral, a fine Gothic structure, dating from 1457, and containing some interesting tablets and relics ; on the principal portal are several sculptured groups, one of which re])resentsthe Last Judg- ment, and another the Wise and Foolish \'irgins; the Hull of the Federal Council, HoleL-de-yille, the Mint, the Bank, and the University. The public Li- brary, founded at the epoch of the Reformation, contains up- wards of 40,000 volumes. The museum possesses an interesting collection. Berne has also an observatory and a botanical gar- den, and is celebrated for the number and excellence of its charitable institutions. The Bear, of whose name the word Berne is the German equi- valent, is in especial favour in this city, which has its effigy for 392 Route 92.— GENEVA TO BALE. SWITZEELAND. its arms; and his figure is per- petually recurring to the eye. The Bears-ditch, near the Aar- burg-gate, is a menagerie of these animals, which is maintained at the public charge. The French took away the bears to Paris, and their restoration was one of the first cares of the citizens upon the return of peace. On a fountain in the Street of Justice, the can- ton is represented in a militant attitude by the effigy of a bear in armour, with sword, belt, and banner. Another fountain has a bear attending a cross-bowman as his squire. Another curious object is the clock in the Zeitglockenthurm, or clock - tower, which stands be- tween two other watch-towers in the Justice Street. Just as the hour is about to strike, a wooden figure of Chanticleer makes his appearance, and crows twice. An- other puppet strikes the hour on a bell, and forthwith a number of bears emerge from the interior of the clock, and pay their duty to an enthroned figure, who at every stroke opens his mouth and in- clines his sceptre. One of the sights of Berne is the shop of Mr. Heller, near the Bernerhof, where may be seen an extensive col- lection of musical boxes, Swiss carvings, and curiosities. Here, every evening in the travelling season, at 8 o'clock, tourists may listen to the largest musical box, and the only electrical piano in the world. Leaving Berne we cross the Aar, and presently reach Burg- DORF, a town of about 3,500 in- habitants, with large well-built houses, hospital, schools, and or- phan asylum. The public walks are finely kept. The celebrated teacher, Pestalozzi, first esta- blished his school here. Passing Herzogenbuchsee, we reach Ol- TEN (124 miles). For the re- mainder of the journey to Bale, see Route 78. Route 93. GENEVA TO BALE, BY NEUCHATEL. 170 miles ; 1st class, 27'35 francs ; 2nd, W05 francs; 3rd, 14-45 francs. (For the route to Bussigny, see Route 92.) ^|;^v^FTER leaving Bus- ten), population, 4,000. It is situated upon the Aar, and is one of thepleasantest towns in Switzer- land. The Church and Castle are conspicuous objects. The Mili- tary College is the institution where the officers of the army of the Swiss Confederation are trained. The Castle of Schadau is a fine modern Gothic structure. From the terrace near the church a beautiful view can be obtained of the lake, vyith the Alps around it. The station at the lake whence the steamers start is called Scherz- ligen. Steamers go from here to Neuhaus, near Interlaken ; fare, 2 francs and 1 franc. There is also a carriage-road by the bank ofthe lake to Interlaken (15miles). The Lake of Thun is about 10 miles long. The northern shore abounds in pleasant houses and gardens. On the soutliern shore the Kander flows through an artificial channel into the lake, and near its entrance and that of the Simmeutlial are the Stockhom and the Niesen. The latter (7,763 ft.), can be easily ascended in 4^ to 5 hours on foot. There is an hotel on the summit, and the view is remarkably fine, comprising the lakes of Tliun and Brienz, the Oberland, and jMont Blanc and the Dent du Midi in the far dis- tance. The panorama of the whole range of the Bernese Alps from the Titlis to the Diablerets is more complete than from any other point of nearly equal height. Beneath the mountain, oo a prO' SWITZERLAND. Houte 9i.—RERXE TO TIU'X. 393 montory, stands an old castlo, said to have been built by Attila. Some distance alonsjj on the north side of the hike, is tlie Cave of bt. Bmtits, beneath which a cascade falls into the lake. Pas- sengers by steamer land at Neu- faaus, about two miles from 1 NTiiii- LAKii.v (o'J miles from J3erne). (For description of InterlaJien, see Route b-i.) Route 95. THUN TO LEUK, BY THE GE.MMI PASS. ■HE distance to Leuker- bad is 46 miles. The fare to Erutigen, by di- ligence, is 'i'L'O francs, by carriage '."J francs, including a custouuiry charge of two francs to the drfver. The whole charge by carriage to Ktuidersteg, and thence by a horse along the bndle- road to Leukerbad, is 50 francs. The distance from Leukerbad to Leuk is 8rJ miles; the fare by di- ligence is tij francs. We proceed along the shore of the lake till we reach the tower of Strattlingen, when we cross the Kander, and passing Wyi.ir (five miles), we enter the valley of FrUtigen. Passing JMuhlinen (10 miles), we reach FavTiGEN (14 miles. Hotels : Helvetia, Post), a village of about 3,500 inliabitants. We may ob- tain guides and mules here for the Gemmi Pass. NVe next pass the Castle of Tellenburg, cross the Kander, and follow its right bank to Kandersteg (22 miles, Ho- tels: de I'Oitrs, ]'ictoria). From this place the actual ascent of the Gemmi commences, and the re- mainder of the distance to Leu- kerbad must be done on horse- back or on foot. The path ascends through forests to the boundary between the Cantons of Berne and \'alais : it then i>roceeds in zigzags for some distance, afford- ing a fine view of the valley of Gasteren, and emerging U|ion a tract of pasture land covered with broken pieces of rock, which have been brought down by an ava- lanche from the heights above, reaches the inn of Scliwureubuch, about two miles from which is the Duuben See, a sm;dl lake, formed entirely by the melting of the mountain snows. The scenery ai'ound is remarkably wild and desolate. The summit of the Pass is 7,540 ft. above the sea. It is about one hour's journey from the inn of Schwarenbach. The view, extending to the range of tlie Alps beyond the Rhone, is one ot the finest to be seen in Switzerland. The principal peaks seen from this point are those of the CoUon, tlie I'igiie d\ii0llu, the Dent Blanche, the Dent d'Erin, the Cervin, the Weisshom (the highest of all), and the Saas Grat. On commencing the descent ■we reach a precipice 1,()00 ft. in depth and apparently perpendi- cular. The road is cut in zig-zags along its face, and in some places is along a ledge which overhangs the road below. Invalids are carried by bearers to tlie baths of Leuk. Leukerbad (46 miles, Hotels: des Atpes, Bellevue, de France^, It is situated about 4,600 ft. above the sea, in a valley surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices. The springs are ten in number, the temperature varying from 117 to 124 degrees Fahr. The principal one — that of bt. Lau- rence — is of considerable size at its source, and is one of the 396 Route 95.— TH UN TO LEUK. SWITZERLAND. hottest. The full regimen for a bather is eight hours a day — four before breakfast, and the remain- der before dinner. Patients sit in the bath-house with their heads and hands only above the water, and floating tables supply them ■with refreshments, chess-boards, books, and other means of reliev- ing the ennui of a protracted bath. In the neighbourhood of Leu- kerbad rises the Torrenthorn, 9,760 ft. above the sea. The view from the summit takes in the Al- pine range from Mont Blanc to the Simplon. Above the steep cliffs at the foot of which Leukerbad is situ- ated, is the village of Albinen, The sole means of direct access are ladders, in tiers, by which the people of Albinen descend to the baths and return. The path to these ladders, one mile and a half distant, lies through a wood, along the gorge of the torrent called the Dala. From Leukerbad there is a carriage road to Leuk, 54| miles from Thun. It proceeds through the beautiful gorge of the Dala, by several zig-zags, and crosses the stream over a bridge 420 ft. above the water. Leuk {Hotel: Couronne) is si- tuated on the right bank of the Rhone, near the point of influx of the Dala. It has a population of about 1,100. It is connected with the Simplon road (see Route 87) by a covered bridge across the Rhone. Above it are the ruins of two ancient castles. Sierre, 12 miles distant, on the Simplon road, may be reached by a bridle-road along the west side of the valley of the Dala. The road is carried high above the torrent past Inden, where a beau- tiful view is aflforded us of the valley of the Rhone. Beyond Inden we pass beneath an im- mense precipice which com- pletely overhangs the road,which is partly protected by roofing from the danger of falling masses of rock. Beneath the narrow ledge along which we pass, a precipice descends to the Dala. This pass is called the Galerie. It was stoutly defended by the inhabi- tants of Valais against the French, in 1799. From this point it takes about an hour and a half to Sierre (see Route 87). GERMANY. ROUTES. Route ! Page 96. Cologne to Berun . 399 97. Cologne to Bremen. 409 98. Cologne TO Hamburg 411 99. Cologne to Leipsic • 413 100. Berlin to Hamburg. 4-'1 101. Berlin to Stettin . 4'24 lO'J. Berlin to Dresden . 425 103. Berlin to Frankfort- on-the-Main . . . 425 104. Berlin to St. Pe- tersburg .... 429 105. The Rhine, from IVIa- yence to Cologne . 431 106. IVIayence to Frank- fort-on-the-IVIain . 4-18 107. Mayence to Darm- stadt 4-19 108. Mayence to Mann- heim 449 Roate Page 109. Frankfort to Ems, BY Wiesbaden . . 451 110. Frankfort to Cassel 452 111. Frankfort to Nu- remburg .... 453 112. Frankfort to Hom- BVRG 457 113. Frankfort to Munich 458 114. Frankfort to Bale . 470 115. Munich to Ratisbon 476 116. Augsburg to Lindau 478 117. Munich to Verona . 479 118. Munich to Vienna . 482 119. Vienna to Dresden . 492 120. Prague to Nurem- burg and Ratisbon 501 121. Vienna to Trieste and Venice . . . 503 122. Vienna to Pesth . . 507 ERMANY is the general name of tlie country occu- ]M'(\ by a consider- able number of sovereign and in- dependent states, and a people speaking one language, -which has played, from tlie earliest times to tlie present, one of the most im- portant parts in history. It is bounded on tJie north by the Ger- man Ocean, Schleswig, and the Baltic ; on the west by Holland, Belgium, and France; on the south by Switzerland and Austrian territories ; and on the east by Hungary, Gallicia, Poland, and Prussia. These boundaries embrace 600 miles of latitude, and nearly 700 miles of longitude, the total area being little less tlian a quarter of a million of square miles (206,575). W ithin this extensive range the people are nearly all German, and with some minor modifications, the language, customs, usages, and manners, are the same. The northern part of Germany, to- wards the shores of the Baltic and the North sea is a level plain, but, the greater j)art of the country, the middle and western portions are hilly, and the southern parts mountainous. The most important ranges are the Black Forest, parallel to the course of the Rhine, the " Giant Mountains," on the borders of Bohemia and Saxony, the Steiger 398 GERMANY. Wald, the Spessart, Tlmringer Wald, tlie Taunus, Harz Moun- tains, &c. The hioher summits of the Schwarz Wakl, fall little short of 5,000 feet, and are covered with dense forests, while the lower slopes are covered with vine- yards and fertile fields. The mountain chains that lie around the plains of Bohemia, en- closing the valley of the Upper Elbe, rise in their highest points to upwards of 5,000 ft. The Harz, which are on the southern border of Hanover, form the outlying range of the German mountain- system to the northward, and ad- vance far into the great plain that extends along the Baltic coasts. Both the Eiz-gebirge, on the borders of Saxony and Bohemia, and the Harz mountains, are cele- brated for their metalliferous wealth. The latter group is also remarkable for an atmospheric illusion, the famous spectre of the Brocken. The chief rivers are the Danube and the Rhine, which be- long to Southern and Western Germany : the Oder, the Elbe, the Weser, and the Ems to Northern Germany. The mineral wealth of Germany is very considerable. Gold is found in Austria and Baden ; silver in Saxony and Hanover ; copper, iron, and tin, in Prussia and Austria; antimony and bismuth in Austria; mercury in Austria and Bavaria. Coal, marble, zinc, kaolin, sulphur, arsenic, &c. have also been found in various localities. The coal fields of Germany are chiefly within the Prussian and Austrian territories. The principal localities are near the Rhine in Westphalia; on the Saare a tributary of the Moselle ; in Bohemia ; and in Silesia. Of these, Silesia contains very valua- ble and extensive deposits of coal. The quality is chiefly bituminous, the beds few in number, but very thick, amounting in some cases to 20 ft. Anthracite is also found. Bohemia is even more richly pro- vided than Silesia, and the banks of the Ruhr, a small tributary to the Rhine, also furnish extensive coal fields. According to the cen- sus of December 3, 1867, the population of the various states of Germany proper was as fol- lows : Prussia, 24,043,902; Sax- ony, 2,423,586 ; Mecklenburg- Schwerin, 560,618; Oldenburg, 315,622; Brunswick, 302,792; Saxe Weimar, 283,044 ; Mecklen- burg-Strelitz, 98,770 ; Saxe-Mei- ningen, 180,335; Anhalt, 197,041; Saxe Coburg Gotha Saxe-Alten- burg,141,426 ; Waldeck, 111,352; Lippe Detmold, 111,352; Schwarzburg-Rudolstadl, 75,074 ; Schwarzburg - Sondershausen, 67,454; Reuss-Schleiz, 88,097; Schaumburg-Eippe, 31,186; Reuss-Greiz, 43,889 ; Hamburg, 305,196; Lubeck, 48,538; Bre- men, 109,572; Bavaria, 4,824,421, Wurtemberg, 1,778,479: Baden; 1,434,970; Hesse, 823,138 ; Eich- tenstein, 8,320.— Total,38,522,366. The population of the Austrian Empire in 1867 was 34,706,460. Germany occupies the middle degrees of the north temperate zone ; but the climate varies greatly with the different eleva- tions above the sea, and the more or less mountainous nature of the districts ; it is on the whole, how- ever, temperate and healtliy. In both Upper and IVIiddle Germany, the climates of which are alike, the vine ripens, but the flat or north- ern portion has unpropitious sea- sons, long winters, and frequent fogs. The soil of Germany is generally productive. Even among the sandy plains in the north there are fertile tracts bordering on the rivers ; and tlie beautiful valleys and enclosed plains among the GERM AW. 399 hilly repons ofton rival in fertility the best alluviiil soils of otliiT countries. 'I'lif territory borderiii'^ on the east hank of the l{liiiie lias a warmer climate and richer soil than any other part of (ierniany. AloNKV. For table showinir the value of the different coins of the German States in the money of Great Britain and tlie United States, see the last pa^'e of the Intnductory liijorinatiou. Route 96. COLOGNE TO HANOVER AND BERLIN. 394 miles ; 1st class (express), 21 th. 14sgr.; '2n(l, l-l III. 9 sgr.; 3rd, 10 th. 22 sgr. (For description of Cologne, see Route 36.) E AVI NG Colos:ne we pass Miit'ieim ('2^mi\es}, a manufacturinjj town witli 6,500 iidiabitants, several unim])ortant places and before reacliini:c Uisseldorf (23J miles). (See Route 74.) Passing in succession Calcnm (30 miles), and DuisBvnc (39 miles), a busy town of 18,000 inhabitants, we reach Oberuausf.n (43} miles), where there are branch lines to Emme- rich, and to Aix-la-Cliai>elle by Ruhrort. We next reach Esskn (51 miles), a town of about 4O,7'00 inhabitants. Here is Krupp's ce- lebrated manufactory of steel guns. The fine cathedral contains a bronze candelabrum of seven branches, said to have been pre- sented in 998 by the sister of the Em])erorOt!ioIlL The next stop- page is at UoRTMUND (7'4i miles), (^HoteU: RomiscJur Kaher, Belie- viie), population 33,4.53. Near the station is a lime-tree under wiiich the secret tribunal of the \ehnie held its sittings. In 1429 the Kmjieror Sigismund was here admitted into tiiis ri'markable as- sociation, wliich tlien numbered 100,000 members. Tiie I'.eiiinldi- kirche (Church of St. Reinhold), built 1421-50, contains some fine old stained glass and wood car- vings. PassingII.\M.M (93^ miles), a town of about 10,000 inhabitants, we cross the River Ems and reach I'lr.i-KFELD (135 miles), {Hotels: Dreikrotien, Ravenshert^er IloJ), populution 17,000. This town is crlcbrated for its linen trade — the largest in \Vesti)halia. Hekfoud (143 miles) is a manu- facturing town of 10,000 inhabi- tants, situated on the Werra, near its confluence with the Aa. It contains some curious old churches. Its abbey is said to have been founded in 830 by Wittekind, King of the Saxons, whose tomb is in tlie church of the neigh- bouring village of Engern. Passing Rehme (near wliich are some salt works and saline baths) and otiier unimportant places we reach IMinden (163 miles), {ho- tels: Eisenbahngusthof, Tuiet- ?H'7!/er's), population 16,000. It is a garrison town, and a j)lace of some commercial importance. Its fortifications were destroyed by Frederick the Great at the close of the Thirty Years' War, but have since been rebuilt on a larger scale. Passing liiickehiirg, the chief town of the principality of Schaum- burg-Lippe, which has a large palace with fine grounds, Haste, and WuNSTORF, from wliich latter place the line to Bremen branches ofi", we reach IIanoveu (200 miles), {Ho- tels : Union,* British, Royal, de Russie), population 76,500. The 400 Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. GERMANY. capital of Hanover, which since the events of 1866 has become a component part of the Kingdom of Prussia, is situated on the banks of the Leine, and is divided by the river into two parts, the old and new town. The environs may be regarded as beautiful, con- trasted with the city itself, which, particularly in tlie old quarter, presents a gloomy aspect. The materials of the houses are gene- rally brick, with wooden frame- work, painted so as to afford an imperfect imitation of stone. The new town, which stands on the right side of the river, is built in better stjde. In the Waterloo Platz, with its column surmounted by a figure of Victory, are line barracks and the arsenal. Besides these, the most interesting buildings are the .S'(orft-/i(n(s in the market-place, founded in 1439, with an adjacent public librarj' of 40,000 volumes ; the Royal Library, with its 100,000 volumes ; the Theatre, one of the largest in Germany ; the museum, with good natural history collec- tions ; a gallery of pictures ; and the Royal Palace, which deserves notice for the magnificence of its internal decorations, and for the number and value of the objects of ancient and modern art which it contains. In its chapel are preserved numerous relics and antiques, many of which were brought from Palestine by Henry the Lion, in 1172. Hanover is well provided with educational and charitable institutions. There are several Lutheran and Ca- tholic churches, and a Jewish synagogue. The town has pleasant walks and pleasure - grounds, which occupy the place of the old ram- parts. In the immediate vicinity are the Roj'al palaces of Herren- hausen, the favourite residence of George I. and II., in the grounds of which is the Royal mausoleum, and Mo7it BriUiant, whose beau- tiful grounds and gardens are open to the public. Herschel, the astronomer, was born at Hanover in 1738. Ame- rican and English Banker, Alex. Simon. The next station is Lehrte (210 miles), the junction for Har- burg and Hamburg. Brunswick (23i?' miles. Hotels: (TAngleterre, Deutsches Haus), po- pulation about 51,000, capital of the duchy, and residence of the Duke of Brunswick. It is a very clean town, situated on the Ocker. Many of the houses, though built of wood, are of great antiquity, some of them bearing dates of the fifteenth century. The chief ob- ject of interest is the Museum, which contains an excellent gal- lery of paintings, by Titian, Rubens, Rembrandt, and other masters, and a collection of an- tiquities. The Doin, or cathedral, originally founded in 1173, by Henry the Lion, was restored in 1854. It contains the tombs of the Duke of Brunswick who fell at Jena, and his son who was killed at Waterloo, also of Caro- line, wife of George IV. In the square adjoining it is a lion, in bronze, erected in 1166 by Henry the Lion. In tlie Altstadtmarkt is a handsome Gothic fountain, in bronze, erected in 1408. The Rathhaus is a fine building of the fourteenth century. Leaving Brunswick, we pass the Chateaux of Richmond and William's-Castle, and reach Wol- fenb'iittel, a town of about 9,500 inliabitants, situated on the Ocker. It possesses a library of 225,000 volumes, of which Lessing was for some time director, containing some beautiful ilhiminated mis- sals, and manuscripts in various languages, together with Luther's BE Appletoa's European Guide Book.. IN MaJbv & Sons J.oudoTi . OEUMANY. Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BKRLIX. 4(11 Bible, his marriage ring, doctor's riuj^, spoon, glass, and his jtor- trait by l^ucas C'ranadi. Leaving on the right tli(^ branch to Ilarz- burg and C'assel, we ri'ach Jeri- heiin, beyond wliich we re-enter the Prussian territory projjer. We see, to the southwanl, the Harz mountains, among which tlie Brocken is cons])icuous, and to the north the wooded hills of tlie Kim. Magdeburg (304-| miles), (Ho- tels : Edel's, London, Lrzlierzhoi^ Stephun ), population, lOi, l-J-O. It is tlie ca])ital ot' the Prussian pro- vince of Saxony, and is situated on the Kibe. It IS not only a com- mercial and nianufacturing town, but a strong fi irtress. Tbe Citadel, built on an island in the Kibe, is the state prison. Lafayette ;ind the Baron Trenck were confined in it. Tlie Cathedral is one of the finest in North Ciermany. It was commenced in iL'OB and finished in l.'3().'5,e.\ce]>t the towers, which date from l.YM. Its length is 365 ft., its height, over tlie nave, 110 ft. The northern tower is 330 ft. high. In the interior, amongst others, is the tomb of the Emperor Otho I. and iiis wife. Jsear the Rathhaus, in the Alte Markt, is a stone equestrian statue of the Emperor Otho, with his two wives, erected in i)7;5. Tlie Public (rurdensare beautifully laid out. The chief promenade is the Fiirstenwail, a terrace along the bank of the Elbe. On leaving the station we tra- verse the fortifications and the two arms of the Elbe, and reach Burg (oiiO^ miles), a town of about 14,0U0 inhabitants, noted for its extensive cloth manufac- tures, wliich were established originally by Protestant refugees, after tlie Revocation of the Edict of A' antes. Brandenburg (357 miles), (Floteh: de Brandenburg, Schwarzer Adler), ]ioi)ulation 27,000. It is situated on the Havel, and is a place of gn-at anticjuity, dating from the tenth century. I'he Uom was built in l.JKt, but the crypt and nave are of the tenth century. 'J'lie exterior is adorned witii gro- tesque bas-reliefs. The Rathhaus, built in l+R), is a handsome Ciot hie structure. Leaving Brandenburg we proceed through a country diversified with numerous lakes formed by the Havel. We jiass, on the left, tlie palace and grounds of Sans Soici before reaching PoTSDA.M {379 miles), (Hotels: Ein.tiedter, Deutsches Haus), pojm- lation 4'J,000. ( For descrijition, see below.) Soon after leaving Potsdam we pass Zehlendorf, near which, on a lake formed by the Havel, is the "Island of Pea- cocks," formerly a residence of Frederick III. Berlin (39i miles), (Hotels: D"ANGi.ETEURE,*f/e Rome,du Xord, de St. Vetershurir^de Russie, Mein- harts, British), iiojiulation 8'J0,000. This is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. The streets are wide and straight, and the houses are generally from three to four stories high. The greater part of its objects of interest are concen- trated witJiin the district com- prised between the Palace and tlie Brandenburg-gate. The finest street is I nter den Linden (" Un- der the Limes"); it is planted witli four rows of limes. In the centre runs a broad avenue for foot passengers, and on each side are carriage and foot-paths. It extends from the Roml Palace to the Brandenburg Gatk, which stands at the entrance of the Thiergurteu, and the avenue of Churtoltenhurg. This gate was built (17b9-9'2) on the model of the Pro])vla'uni at Athens. It is 60 ft. higL, 19b wide, and has five c c 402 Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. GERMANY. passages for carriages and foot- passengers. It is surmounted by an emblematic figure of Victory, seated in a chariot drawn bj' four horses. The height of this group is about 20 ft. The chariot was taken away by the French in 1806, but was restored after the battle of Waterloo. The cost of erecting the gate was nearly 80,000 /. In or near the Opera Tlace are the statue of Frederick the Great, the King's Palace, the Royal Library, and the Opera- house ( beliind which is the Catlio- lic church); the Academy of Fine Arts and the University. Opposite the Guard -house are the statues of Generals York, Bliicher and Gneisenau ; and on the same side, opposite the Arsenal, is the ])alace of the Crown Prince. On the north, and opposite the King's Palace, is the University. On each side of tlie Gunrd House are statues of Generals !>cliarnhorst and Biilow. Tlie Schloss Briicke ( or bridge) was constructed in 1824, and is 160 ft. in length by about 105 in width. On each side of the bridge are four granite pe- destals supporting groups in mar- ble. On the left, after crossing the bridge, is the Lustgarten, a vast space, ])lanted with trees and ornamented by a fountain in the centre. Tliis place is bounded on the north by the JMuseum, before which is a polished granite vase, 22 ft. in diameter, of one piece ; on the south, by the Royal Pa- lace; on the east, by the Catlie- dral. The Churches of Berlin are not remarkable either for antic|uity or architectural beauty : they are, generally speaking, of moderate size. The Dom, or Catliedral, dates from 1750 ; it was restored in 1821, from the designs of Schinkel. It is in the form of a cross, and is surmounted by one large and two small cupolas. In the interior are an altar-screen, representing the pouring out of the Holy Spirit, by Begas; a mosaic of St. Peter, given by Pope Leo XII. to Frederick William III. ; the tombs of the Electors, Jean le Ciceron and Joachim I., in bronze, by J. Vischer of Nuremburg (1540) ; the gilded coffins containing the remains of the great Elector, of his son Frederick I., of Dorothea, his second wife, and of Sophia Charlotte, wife of Frederick I. In the vaults are the remains of nearly eighty members of the reigning family of Prussia. The Church of St. Nicholas (Nicolaikirche), the most ancient in Berlin, dates from the twelfth century, and was restored in 1814; the spire was erected in 1514. In the interior is the tomb of the great jurist, Puftendorf. The Church of the Grey Convent (Khsterkirche), in tlie Kloster- strasse, built in 1290, and restored in 1844, is adorned with frescoes, and contains some ancient tombs. The Church of St. Mary {Marien- kirche), near the Neiie Markt, is of the thirteenth century. Its tower is the highest in Berlin, being mwards of 300 ft. high. The Royal Palace, or Schloss, forms an oblong of three stories liigli, 640 ft. long, 376 wide, and 110 high; with two principal, and two smaller courts. It was founded, as a fortress (1443-51), by the Elector Frederick II., en- larged in 1.538 by Joachim II., re- built by King Frederick I., and completed in 1716. Frederick- William IV. erected (1845-49) the great cupola. The great w^es- tern portal, on the side of the Scblossfreiheit, is in imitation of the triumphal arch of Septimius Severus at Rome. The side next CF.nMANY. Route 9&— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. 40.'} the river dates from tin; fiflueuth and sixteenth centuries. 'I'he Pahice contains 600 ajiart- menis. The Tlirone-rooin ( Rit- teisual) contains a buffet laden with ancient gold and silver jtiate. The ancient chapel, where Fre- derick the Great was baptised, is adorned with frescoes. 'Ihe Pictiire-Ciulleru, u]iwar(Is of 'JOO ft. long by '2b wide, is also a banc|ueting hall. Most of the pictures are by modern artists. >\ e notice especially the portraits of Chaa'les I., Henrietta of Trance, and Peter the Cireat, by \'an Dyck; and Honaparte crossing the Alps, by David. The lleiis 6mit (White Hall), the largest room in the Palace, is 105 ft. long, by ,t1 wide, and 4^ high. It was rebuilt in 184,5. It contains statues of the twelve Electors of IJrandenburg; eight caryatides holding escutcheons, ana supporting eight statues re- presenting the provinces of the kingdom ; marble-bas-reliefs de- noting the principal virtues ; tlie frieze decorated with portraits in relief of celebrated men of the time of tlie Electorate, including that of the areiiitect 8chinkel ; and a figure of \'ictory, the work of Rauch, in Carrara marble. In this chamljer was held, in 1847, the first session of the States- general of Prussia, the epoch of the introduction of the represen- tative system into the govern- ment. The stair-case is adorned with three fountains, with frescoes, and statues of the Emjierors Con- stantine, Justinian, Charlemagne, and Rudolph 11. The New Chapel, beneath the cupola, was completed in 1849. Jt is circular, and 126 ft. high; the cupola measures about Sti ft. in diameter. The altar, of ala- baster, was a present from Mehe- niet .Mi, \'ici'roy of Egypt. Above the altar is a gilded canoi)y; the cross, of silver studded with gems, and 7 feet high, cost nearly £80,000. The apartments inhabited by Frederick the Great are ujion tlie first floor, at the corner of the Schloss Platz, nearest tlie river. '1 he other a])artnaents present no j)articular attractions to tourists familiar witli the splendour of Paris and other cajiitals. 'J'he state apartments are shown by the attendant every week day. 'J'he present king resides in his own palace. The Royal Palace is us<'d only for state ceremonials and fetes. The King's Palace, in the Opera Place, at the entrance ot the Unter t!en Linden wa.s built in 18;36. Tlie apartments are beautifully decorated. TIjc principal hall is 'J'iO ft. long. The Palace of the Cuown PniNCE, in the Arsenal Place, was formerly the residence of Frederick William III. After his death it remained unoccuj^ied un- til 18J6, wlien it was rebuilt after the designs of Strack. The Pa LACK of Phince Chahles is in the Wilhelms-platz. It con- tains a magnificent collection of arms. Beliind it is a beautiful garden. It was formerly the house or college of the Order of St. .John of Prussia, and was rebuilt by Schinkel, in 1828. Of the MONUMENTS, the chief is the EniEsTniAN Statue of Fkf- DFRRK THE GiiKAT, in tlie Oi>era Place, tiie finest of the kind in Europe. The first stone was laid on the 31st of ^lay, 1840, the hundredth anniversary of the ac- cession of Frederick the Great. It was inaugurated in 18.51. It was designed and modelled by Rauch, and cast in bronze 404 Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. GERMANY. by Reibel. The height of the whole monument is 43 ft., the pedestal, which is of bronze, is laid upon blocks of red granite highly polished. Its four angles sustain equestrian figures of the size of life, of the Duke of Bruns- wick, Prince Heinrich of Prussia, General Seydlitz and General Ziethen. Between them art, on one side, six figures, and on each of the other three sides five figures representing generals and states- men. Various characters and occupations are indicated upon the has reliefs. The king and the four generals, with the 21 figures on the panels make 26 figures of men, add the five horses, and we have a total of 31 figures on this remarkable monument without counting the female figures in the upper compartments. The horse ujion which the king is seated is 16 ft. high. As a work of art this monument has, probably, never been exceeded. The in- scription is "To Frederick the Great, Frederick William III., 1850, completed by Frederick William IV. 1851." The Equestrian Statue of the Great Elector (Frederick Wil- liam) on the bridge called Linige- hr'ucke, designed by Schluter, is of bronze, and was erected in 1703. It is one of the finest existing equestrian statues. Four giants, in chains, represent the four hostile elements, overcome by the elector. It cost 600,000 thalers. The Statues of Frederick the Great's Generals in the Wil- helmsplatz, represent Generals Schwerin, Winterfeld, Seydlitz, Keith, Ziethen, and Leopold, Prince of Dessau. The Statue of Frederick- William III., in the Thiergarten, is of Carrara marble modelled by Drake. The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, 38 Unter den Linden, was founded in 1700 by King Fre- derick I., in pursuance of a pro- ject of Leibnitz. In this building, exhibitions of the works of living painters are held every two years. On tlie first story is a clock which regulates the time of all the other clocks in Berlin. The Arsenal, in the place of the same name, was built in the reign of Frederick I. after the plans of Schluter, 1695 — 1706, and is one of the finest public buildings in Berhn. Above the great entrance-gate is the bust, in relief, of the founder. The building is a perfect square of about '270 ft. on each side. In the court we see, above the win- dows, 21 masques, representing the heads of dying warriors, modelled by Schliiter; they are considered very fine. The gal- leries on the ground floor contain specimens of cannon of all ages, including two Swedish ones of leather, dating from the Thirty Years War. The Bourse is situated on the quay between the Burgstrasse and Neiie Friedrichstrasse, not far from the Museum. The Royal Opera-house was built by Frederick II. in 1741. After the fire of 1843, it was par- tially rebuilt after the plans of Langhaus. The external walls and tlie facade were preserved. It can accommodate about 2,000 spec- tators. It is in the form of a Grecian temple, the peristyle and pediments being adorned with statues of the Aluses and Graces. .The interior is splendidly deco- rated. The Museum comprises all the collections of works of art belong- ing to the State, and is divided , into the Old and Kew Museums, the latter situated in the I^ust- garten opposite the Palace, with GERMANY. Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BEIlLiy. 406 the New Museum in the rear. The Hrst-mcutioMctl l)iiil(liii'r was r* erected iii lii'JlS from the jilans of Schiiikcl, on an ana of the Sprt-o, which had been dried and liMed up for the purpose. It is of an ohlouij sliaj)e, about ^7(5 ft. lonij, 171 wide, and 83 liit^h, and in tlie purest CJreek style. \iy a flii,'ht of twentj'-one stej)S, 90 ft. wich^, we reach the vestibule or colon- nade, formed of eiijiitcen Jonic columns, supportini; an attic de- corated with ea-^'les, and sur- mounted by an t'Utablature, of whicli the two auLjles are orna- mented witli fiifures in bronze, by Tieck, representinjj Castor and Pollux. On the sides of the fli«rht of ste])s are colossal bronze groups ; that on the ria^ht repre- seutinJ Sculptures, the second the Ficlure dullcitj. The Antiqi'aiuum contains vases, specimens of (lottery, mo- saics, bronzes, cameos, engraved stones, and ancient medals. There are nearly 'JOOO vases. The cameos and engraved stones are remark- ably interesting. The Gallery of Sculptures is entered through a circular hall extending to the whole height of the building. Jietween the columns are eigh- teen antit|ue statues, of which the princij)al are: Victory, .Minerva, Ceres, \'enus and Cupid, Fauns, A]iollo, and .Tuno. The u[)per gallery is reached by an outer staircase. The walls are covered with tajiestry, comprising copies of those pieces wiiich J.eo X. caused to be made at Arras in the 16th century, after the cartoons of Kaphael. 'Ihe Galllhy of ScuLPiuRES contains 743 speci- mens, for the most jiart Roman. In front of the entrance of the rotunda a double fliglit of stairs leads to the gallery which con- nects tlie old with the new mu- seum. It contains several works in bronze. The Picture Gallery is en- tered from the U])])er gallery of the rotunda. It contains i)ictures by nearly all the old masters. Excellent catalogues are sold at the entrance. The New Museum, connected with the Old .Museum by a bridge over the street, is one of the finest buildings, in internal decoration, in Berlin. It contains a collection of northern anticjuities, an ethno- logical collection, an Egyptian collection, and plaster casts of the ])rincipal sculptures of all ages arranged in chronological order, it has also a collection of engravings, enamels, porcelain, ice. The Gallery of Paintings in the liELLtvuE Palace comprises 130 ])aintings by modern masters distributed in nine apartments. The TniERGARTEN is the prin- cipal jiromenade of the citizens of Berlin. It is a vast park, the remains of a forest, extending outside the Brandenburg Gate, between the Spree and the canal ■which, making a bend near Char- lottenhurg, forms its limit. It is about two miles long by one broad. The Avenue of Cliarlottenburg, opposite the Brandenburg Gate, divides it into two parts. On the left of this avenue are many fine houses and jiublic gardens. On the right are Kroll's Garden, Zel- ten's Cafe, the Palace and Park 406 Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. GERMANY. of Bellevue. There is a pleasing combination of shady walks, green lawns, miniature lakes and gar- dens. In it is the statue of Fre- derick William III., before de- scribed, and at the western ex- tremity is the Zoologicai, Garden. The latter was established in 1844 by a private company, and was augmented by the Koyal Mena- gerie from Potsdam. KnoLL's Garden, on the right of the avenue, is a place greatly frequented by the middle classes of Berlin. It contains a theatre, concert room, etc. The origin of Berlin is not known with certainty, its ancient archives having been burnt m the fourteenth century. The recorded dates go no further back than the twelfth century. In 1132 it was a little fishing village ; in 1250 it was made a city ; in loOO it was surrounded by a wall ; somewliat later it became a member of the Hanseatic League. After the ac- cession of the burgraves of Hohen- zollern, during the fifteenth cen- tury, it frequently carried on war against its sovereigns. It was conquered by the Elector Frede- rick II., who built a castle of which the remains may be seen about the existing Palace.. In 1495 the Filector Joachim II. transferred his residence from Spandau to Berlin. In 1539 the Reformation was introduced there. During the Thirty Years' ^\ ar the city fell into decay. The Great Elector restored and em- bellished it ; he invited the Pro- testant refugees from France to settle there, and they were the chief authors of its commercial and manufacturing prosjterity. Under King Frederick I. nu- merous public buildings were con- structed, and from that time every sovereign of Prussia has done something to improve and em- bellisli it. During the Seven Years' War the Austrians and Russians occupied it. Frederick the Great encouraged building, and large additions to the city were made in his time. After the battle of Jena tlie French took possession of it until 1809. Be- tween 1813 and 1815, 22,000 of its citizens fell in battle. After the Peace the work of improvement was recommenced on a large scale. Most of the public buildings and monuments now existing were constructed in the reign of Fre- derick William III. and his im- mediate successor. The political history of Berlin is naturally in- volved in that of Prussia. We need only specify the sanguinary insurrection of 1848, which failed to overthrow the sovereign power. Berlin is the birthplace ot many renowned men ; amongst others, Frederick the Great, the poet Tieck, the brothers Humboldt, the composer 3Ieyerbeer, &c. Charlottenburg, a town of about 12,000 inhabitants, is situ- ated on the left bank of the Spree, about three miles from Berlin, at tlie western extremity of tlieThier- garten. This town owes its origin to a village called Lietzow, where the Queen So])hia Charlotte had a palace built in 1696. Since that time many citizens of Berlin have been accustomed to reside there during the summer months. The Palace is at the western extremity of the town. It was constructed after the desig-ns of Schluter. It con- sists of a centi'al pavilion, with a handsome cupola and two wings. The Mausoleum, in the grounds, contains the remains of Frederick William III, and of the Queen Louise. It is in the form of a temple in the Doric style. In the interior are the sarcophagi of the king and queen, with tlieir recum- bent figures, made of Carrara CERMAW. Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. 407 marl)l,ovember, 1805, Frederick- Wil- liam 111. and the Emperor Alex- ander I. swore eternal friendship. The F^mj)eror Naj)oleon visited it in 1806, and took away the sword of Frederick the Great, which, after his death, was placed upon his coflin. It has never been re- covered. The uniforms of the three sovereigns wlio formed tlie Holy Alliance are preserved here in mahogany closets. An avenue leads from the liran- denburgGale to !? a ns Soixi. At the entrance of the park, on the right, is the trtedeitskirche. It is built in the style of a biusilica, and has three naves, of which the central one is 87 ft. long by 3'2 ft. wide. It contains a mosaic from a church at -Murano, near \'enice. 408 Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. GERMANY. The Park of Sans Souci was laid out in 1744 by Frederick II., and lias subsequently received embellisliments from time to time. It is adorned with numerous statues and groujjs in marble ; amongst others, two sphinxes, and a bust of Paolo Giordano, Due de liracciano, in Egyptian por])hyry, which was taken to Paris by the French, and restored in 1815. The latter is placed near the great fountain, wliich throws a jet nearly 120 ft. high. Its basin is 130 ft. in diameter, and is surrounded by twelve mythological groujis. I'urther on are four marble columns 30 ft. high, with capitals gilded, and adorned with statues of Venus, Apollo, Bacchus, and Hope. Anotlier avenue to the right of the lirandenburg gate leads to the principal entrance of the Park, where there is an obelisk 63 ft. high. Around it are co- lumns with busts. On the way to the Palace we pass several fountains and the Groito nf Nep- tune. The Great Fountain is at the foot of tlie hill on whicli stands the Palace of Sans Souci. We ascend by nine terraces, each adorned with orange-trees and conservatories. On two sides of the Palace are vases in marble. Near the Palace, at the end of the terrace, are the tablets over tlie graves of the favourite dogs and charger of the king, in the grave with which he requested that he might be buried. This ]ialace, built in 1745-47, was the favourite residence of Frederick II., who died here. It then re- mained unoccupied for many j-ears. It was restored by Fre- derick-William IV., wlio made it his summer residence, and died in it in 1861. The apartments of Frederick the Great are in the same state as when he left them. We see the clock, whicli stopped at 20 minutes past 2 o'clock — the moment of his decease, and the couch on which he died. From the palace we may ascend a hill called Ruinenherg, from the artificial ruins which hide the waterworks supplying the foun- tains. From the summit of the tower of the reservoir, the view is very fine. In the lower portion ofthe park is the Japanese Pavi- lion ; near it is a fine bronze foun- tain. The Temple contains a copy of the statue of Queen Louise, executed by Ranch for the mau- soleum of Charlottenburg. Close by the palace is the historic ^^^ind- mill. It still belongs to the de- scendants of the miller who re- fused to give it up when it was demanded of him by Frederick, who wished to extend the grounds of Sans Souci. " Are there no judges in Berlin?" was the reply of the miller to the demand of the king. The owner in later years becoming involved in pecuniary difficulties, and having olFered the mill for sale, William IV. settled upon him a sum sufiicient to en- able him to retain liis property. The Nf.w Palace, at the end ofthe Great Avenue, was built at theterniinationof the Seven Years' War, 1763-9, in the Dutch style, at a cost of 3,000,000 thalers. The great facade is 227 yards long. The palace has 322 windows, and is adorned externally with up- wards of 400 statues or groups. On the frontal is inscribed : Nee soli ced'it. There are 200 apart-, ments, of which about 40 are shovsTi. In the apartments of Frederick II. are several fine paintings, some of them being by the first masters : Tintoretto, Do- menichino, Guide Reni, Van Dyck, Titian. On a wooded eminence east of GERMANY. Route 96.— COLOGNE TO BERLIN. 409 Potsdam, and about 2§ miles dis- tant, is the (.'astle of Babehbeio;, the usual suniiuiT residence of the kin^'. 'I'lie -jrouuds are hand- somely laid out. The interior is comfortahly furnished, but con- tains nothin;; of esjiecial interest. The views from the terrace are very fine. Route \)7. COLOGNE TO BREMEN. 276 miles ; 1st class (express) 381 sgr; '2iul, '261 sgr. ; 1st class (orrfimirv) 3iy s?r.; 2m/, '218^ sgr. ; 3nl, U7 sgr. ( For the route from Cologne to Wunstorf Junction,see Route 96.) EAVIN(; Wunstorf we reach Nkvsiadi ('226 miles), at some distance from which we see the lake called Uteinhitder-Meer. On an island in the centre is a castle which is used as a military school. NiLNiuRG was formerly a for- tress of Some strensjth, but the French destroyed the fortifications in IBOr. \'i;iii)KN ('216 miles) was formerlv the seat of a bishopric founded by Cliarlemagne. The Cathedral, which has no tower, contains monuments of some of the hishojis, and some good stained windows and tracery. Passing some places of no interest, we reach ]5remen (276 miles), (Hotels: de I' Europe, Hillimin's), popula- tion, 71,'200. This is one of the most important commercial towns on the ( Jontinent. It is situated on the River Weser, which runs tlirough it. Its shipping business is very great. The ship-o'wners possess ujiwards of 300 vessels. It is estimated that 80,000 emi- grants embark for America from I5remen evtjry year. The fortih- cations have been destroyed, and the ramjjarts now form prome- nades. On the eastern |>art of the ])romenade are the 'Ihetitre, the Union (a merchants' association), and the Kamthalle, or .Museum of Fine Arts. Near the last-named is the statue of the astronomer Olhers. The /?«//i/i(i"s,of the 1.5th century is a remarkable building. The southern fayade is adorned with eight large statues, repre- senting the Emperor and the seven Electors. In the great hall is the marble statue of the Burgomaster Smidt, who died in 1857. On the west side is the entrance to the famous wine cellars, which are open to the j)ublic every day. h\ one of the compartments are the wine casks called the Rose, and the iwclve Ajjostles. In front of the Rathhaus is a statue of Roland, 18 feet high, erected in 1-112, intended as a symbol of the sovereignty of the town. In the immediate vicinity is the Schut- ting, the seat of the Chamber of Commerce. Near it are the Bourse, tiie Church of Noire Dame, and the .StiuithdUi. The Cathedral, a (Jothic building of the 12th cen- tury, has been recently restored. It possesses the finest organ in Germany. The tourist should note the glass; the pulpit given by Christine of Sweden; the bap- tismal fonts ; and the Bleikeller, a vault which has the property of j)reserving bodies from decompo- sition. On the Cathedral Place, or Doni.-hot, are the Musemn and tlio Bonenhiille, a jtlace of meet- ing, or club for merchants. On the Domshaule, near the Cathedral, is a bronze statue of Gustavus Adolphus, made .it Munich. The ship which was to have trans- ported it to Gothenburg, was wrecked at Heligoland, and the v^^ 410 Route 97.— COLOGNE TO BREMEN. GERMAN.Y. Statue, being rescued by the fish- ermen there, was purchased by some Bremen merchants, and pre- sented by them to tlie town. A ear it is the Artists' Club. The Church of Si. A7i!igar, of the 13tli century, is surmounted by a tower 325 feet high. It contains a fine painting by Tisclibein, some good frescoes, and stained glass win- dows. The Catholic Church of Si. John contains the remains of Prince Louis-Franfois de Bour- bon-Conde, who died in 17.57. Two bridges connect the two banks of the Weser. From the larger one there is a fine view. A ear the southern ramparts are the barracks and armoury of the military contingent of Bremen. The depth of water in the river at Bremen is sufficient only for vessels drawing 8 feet of water. Large vessels are unloaded at Bre- MERHAFEN, (Hotels; Steiiihofs, Lloyd's, ) which is 30 miles below Bremen. It is rapidly increasing in trade and population, and now numbers about 6,500 inhabitants. It is also a watering place. It is connected by railway with Bre- men. Trains five times a day, in an hour and a half — fare, Isi duns, 1 th. 20*oT. ; 2«(/, 1 th. 8 strr. ; 3ril, 25 sgr. Hamburg Money. The coins are Mark Courent, equal to 16 schillings, or Is. 2id. English, or 30 cents in the money of the United States; the double mark ; 8 schillings, or half mark ; 4 schillings ; 1 schilling ; specie Rix-dollar, equal to 44-. 7d. En- glish, or 1'14 dollars in United States money. The Mark Banco is imaginary, valued in English money at Is. 5^d., or in money of the United States, 36 cents. Route 98. COLOGNE TO HAMBURG. To Harburg Terminus, 307 miles ; 1st class {express), 462 sot. ,• 2nd, 318 sgr. ; 1st class (ordinary), 382 sgr.; 2nd, 270 sgr.; 3vd, 192i sgr. (From Harburg to Hamburg, steamer across the Elbe in one hour. The steamers leave each side eight times a day.) ( For that part of the route from Cologne to Lehrte, see Route 96). L'^EAVING Lehrte, we W. V^^^ Burgdorf (225 miles), Celle (238 miles), population, 14,000, the second residence of the King of Hanover before its annexation to Prussia; Uelzen ( 260^ miles ), near which are some stones supposed to be Druidic, and reach LuNEBURG (283 miles), (^Hotels : Wellenkamp's). It is an interest- ing old town of about 15,000 in- habitants. It is mentioned in the chronicles of 961, and was greatly enlarged by Henry the Lion in the 12th century. The Rathhaus contains an interesting collection of mediseval works of art. 1 he Church of St. John is of the 14th century, and is worth inspection. The railway presently passes Bar- dewieck, formerly a place of great importance, until Hamburg took away its trade. It was destroyed in 1189 by Henry the Lion. Of its ancient buildings only the ruins of its Cathedral remain. We now pass two unimportant stations, and reach Hakevro (307 miles), (^Hotel: GERMANY. lioutB 9Q.—C0L0G N E TO HAMBURG. Ml K'oiiiir von Schweden), ft town of about 9,000 iiiliabitunts, situiitcd ou tlie left bank of tlie Kibe. A bridge and riiihvay across tbe river are in contein])lation. Har- burg possesses a fortified fort. From the bill of Sclnvarzenberg, in tbe neighbourhood, there is a fine view. Tourists embark on board the Hamburg boat not far from tbe terminus. The passage occupies about an hour. Fares : 1st class, 5 sfrr. ; 'Jnd, 'J-j- V". H.xMijfUG (Hoteti: lie I' Europe, Streits,i>t. Petenl>uifr,]'ictoria), po- pulation, 2i?5, 000. i'hisisthecliief place of commerce, and one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. It is situated on tbe right bank of the Elbe, about 80 miles from its mouth. The River Alster joins the Elbe here. I he Alster forms, on the north of tlie city, a huge basin called tiie Cireat Alster, which communicates with another basin outside the city, called liiu- ner-Alster. A great part of the town was destroyed by fire in 1842, and was afterwards rebuilt on a magnificent scale. The Port in which vessels can enter with the tide is very extensive. Up- wards of 5,0u0 enter annually, and there are always many hun- dreds lying at anchor within it. More than 500 belong to Ham- burg, and the annual importations exceed in value thirty million pounds sterling. There are no considerable manufactures. The foundation of Hamburg dates from the time of Charle- magne, who built a castle on tbe heights between the Elbe and the Alster. The Em])eror Otho 1\'., in the 12th century, raised it to the rank of a free town. In 1241 it joined the Hanseatic League, and waged a successful war with the Danish kings. After nu- merous contests between the senate and the people, a Constitution was definitively established in 1712. In ItiO,"} it w!us occu])ied by the French ; Najioleon incorporated it with the Frencii Empire in 1310 ; Marshal Davoust occupied it in 1813-4. Jn 1815 it became a member of the Germanic Con- federation, and is now a member of the North German Confeder- ation. The Boi'KSE is, from 1 to 2 o'clock, the rendezvous of mer- chants; from three to four thou- sand persons transact business there. The palace of the Bourse, on tbe Place .\doli)be, is one of the finest buildings in Hamburg. On the first floor is the R'vrien- ludle, where the merchants meet. It contains also a mercantile library of R),000 volumes. The fashionable promenade is along the (|uays which surround the basin of the Alster, viz. : the Old J II ii^fenislie^, the \ew Jungfeni- sti>f,the.-l/j(er(/(imm,andthe II nil, near the Lombard's bridge. There are several remarkable churches in Hamburg: The Church of St. Xicholas, in the Uopl'eitmurkt, standing on the site of an older one burnt in 1842; it was rebuilt after the plans of Scott, the English architect. It is in the pure Gothic style. The Church oj ir. Peter, in the Speerssort, the most ancient of all in Hamburg. It was rebuilt after the plan of the old one burned in 1842. Tlie Church of St. Catharine, on the Ch-imm, in the old town, dates from the 13th century. The Church I'f St. Jamef, near the Steinsirasye, is surmounted by a tower 355 ft. high. Amongst its other remarkable paintings is one of ancient Hamburg. The Great Church of St. Michael, in the new town, built 1751-62, after the designs of Sonnin, is surmounted by a steeple 456 ft. high. A fine 412 Route 98.— COLOGNE TO HAMBURG. Germany. panoramic view may be had from its summit. Apply at the office opposite the entrance. Among- the principal edifices may be mentioned the Hotel de ViLLE, in the Neue-WalL The great hall is used for civic ban- quets. Near the Old Jungfernstieg is the Bazaar, a glazed passage leading- from the J ungfernstieg to the AbnigUrasie. It cost sixty thousand pounds sterling. Near the J ungfernstieg end, thispassage forms an octagon, surmounted by a cupola, and is richly decorated. It is bordered with good shops. The ancient ramparts have been converted into j^romenades. The most agreeable portion is that comprised within the Wall, be- tween the basin of the Alster and the railway terminus. On leaving the Lombard's bridge we pass an obelisk erected in honour of the savant Busch ; the AUterhbhe is a fine point of view. Near the Steinthor gate is the monument of Count Adolph, of Holstein, one of the benefactors of the State, dating from the 13th century. On the west sideof the Wall, to the left of the Dammihor gate, is the Bo- tanic Garden, one of the finest in German}'. Near the Deichthor gate is the Reservoir which sujjplies the whole city with water. From the tower there is a magnificent view. A ETON A, the most important town of Holstein, adjoins Ham- burg. It is a place of consider- able trade. Its po]nilation is 65,000. It was sacked by the Svvedes m 1713, and contains no ancient buildings. It is a free port. Its finest buildings are the Hotel de Vilie, and the Churches of the Trinity and Holy Ghost. From Hamburg, a visit may be made to I.iibeck, which is forty-five miles distant. There is nothing of interest on the route between the two cities. Fares : 1st class, 1 th. 20^ sgr.; 2nd, 1 th. 7i sgr. ; 3rd, 2.55 *S '"• LuBECK (Hotel: Stadt Ham- burg*), population 38,000, is an old Hanseatic town, situated on the Trave. It has a con- siderable trade. At the time of the Hanseatic League it was called the Carthage of the North. After the battle of Jena, Bliicher, who had thrown himself into it, was ejected by the French, and made prisoner, together with the remainder of his army. Liibeck is one of the best specimens of a mediaeval town to be found in Germany. The Domkirche (Ca- thedral), built from the 12tli to the 14th century, contains several tombs, some bronze fonts of the 15th centurjf, a carved puljiit of the 16th century, and a painting, attributed to IMemling. The Marien-kirche, of the 14th cen- tury, is built of bricks. Its towers are 420 ft. high; it contains some fine sculptures, paintings by Over- beck, a curious clock, handsome stained windows, &c. The Ca- thariiien - Kirche has been con- verted into a museum of local antiquities. The Rcithhans, of the 16tli centurj', of variegated bricks, is the place where the Hanseatic League held its sittings. The hall is called the " Hall of the Hansa." The Merclumts Club-house has some wood-carvings of the 16th century. One of the curiosities of the town is the Schiffer Innung, or ship- owners guild, a buikhng dating from 1535, and still unaltered. From Hamburg- ( Altona), Kiel is reached by railway by Elmshorn and Neumiuster in about 3i hours. Kiel {Hotel: Marsily) is a town of about 18,000 inhabi- tants, situated on the Baltic, 65 miles from Hamburg. Fares: 1st class, 88 sgr.; '2nd, 63 sgr.; 3rd, GEn.MANY. lioiUe9Q.-COLOayE TO ILUinURG. 413 43 sgr. Its port can accommo- dat("tlio liir;eandtlie railway bridge, is the Japuiiese Palace, th<' gardens of which extend to the river. '1 lie ('u(/ie/(rC/i(/ir/i was finished in 17.i6. Over the great altar is a ]»icture, *' The Asci'iision," by Ha|)hael iMengs, and there are many other German and Italian pictures of the IfUh century. iJnder the sacristy are the vaults of the royal family ; 6-1 statues of saints adorn the aisles. The music of this church (on Sundays from 11 to 1'^, and at 4), is celebrated. The KovAi. Palace, or Schixjss, forms a large S(iuare of tiiree or four stories, tlanked by numerous galleries and dependencies, and in- closing three courts. The prin- cipal body of the building, by the side of the Catholic Cliurcli, is sur- mounted by a tower 387 feet high, the highest in Dresden. I'he palace was built in the 14th cen- tury, and enlarged in the 16th and 17th centuries ; the interior is worthy of inspection. It con- tains several ])ictures by modern artists; and the Chapel Hoyal is adorned with works of Rubens, Rembrandt, CiuidoUi'ni,Carracci, and Mengs. The great audience chamber, occnpied by Xaiioleon during his stay in Dresilen, is adorned with paintings by Syl- vestre. The Theatre Royal, built 1837- 1841, from the designs of Semper, was burnt down in 1869, but is to be rebuilt. The south side of the Theatre Platz is closed bj' the Zivinger, tlje construction of which was commenced under Augustus JI., at the beginning of the 18th cen- tury. One side of the Zwinger is occupied by the A tw GALLtRv. The Zwinger contains most of the public collections in JJresden. The Friiuentiirche, or church of Our l.ady, on the Xeumarht, was built 17i;6-17;>4, and is capjied by a dome which, in the siege of 1760, was |)roof against bombs of the heaviest calibre. A very fine view may bo enjoyed from the lantern, which is 384 feet above the street. Fee to the sacristin 20 sgr. It h;is a famous organ, built in 1736 by Silbermann, which has 44 registers, and 6,000 pipes. The Kreuzkirche, or church of tlie Cross, is in the Altmarkt. The first church of the name dated from the 15th century, and was destroyed by fire in the bom- bardment of 1760. The present church was built 1764-92, and forms an oblong square, M t7 ft. long by 174 ft. wide, surmounted by a tower 345 ft. high, com- posed of three stories with co- lumns. It contains some good sculptures. The Bn'ilil Palace was built in the 18th century by Count Briihl, prime minister of Augustus II. Jt was occupied in the Seven Years'-War, by the King of Prus- sia; in 1813 by the Kmperor Alexander ; and is at present the residence of the Queen-Dowager of Saxony. The Botanic Gardens and the Academif of Medicine are near the Briihl Terrace. The Anenal is not far from the Botanical Garden. It formerly contained a very celebrated col- lection of arms, but was despoiled by the Prussians in 1760, and by the French in 1807 ; nevertheless it still possesses a great number of remarkable specimens, and se- veral statues and busts of kings and illustrious warriors. The Japanese Palace in the \eu9- tadt, an edifice in the Dutch style, u D 418 Route 99.— COLOGNE TO LEIPSIC. germanv. was built in 1715 for Field-Mar- shal Count Fleming. King Fre- deric-Augustus I. bought it in 1717, enlarged and embellished it, and used it as a summer resi- dence. Frederic- Augustus III. l)resented it to the State; and it now contains several public col- lections ; the Museum of Anti- quities, Library, and a Collection of Porcelain and Terra - cottas. Attached to it is the magnificent Palace garden, partly laid out as a French garden, and partly as an English park. From a small hill in it, an admirable panoramic view of Dresden and the banks of the Elbe may be had. The principal collections (of pictures, engravings and casts) are in the New Museum, the Zwinger and the .Japanese Pa- lace. The New Museum was built in 1854 from the plans of Semper. The edifice forms an oblong square 492 ft. long by 69 ft. wide and 95 ft. high. The grand entrance is in the form of a triumphal arch with statues of Raphael and JMicliael Angelo in the niches ; upon the capitals of the columns are sta- tuettes of St. George, Judith, Sieg- fried and Sampson; on the attic are statues of Giotto, Holbein, A. Diirer and Cornelius. Nu- merous reliefs adorn the fa9ade. The edifice is formed of a ground- floor and three upper stories. The ground floor contains the engrav- ings, casts and views by Cana- letto ; the first and second, pic- tures. The grand staircase is of imposing proportions and its ba- lustrade is richly ornamented. The picture gallery, the finest collection in Germany, contains 2,200 pictures. The gallery was founded by A ugustus I . and 1 argely increased by A ugustus 1 1 . and 111., the last of whom added to it the Modena Gallery, at a cost of £200,000. it is classified in schools, and in chronological or- der. For the proper study of this gallery jM. Hubner's cata- logue, which may be purchased at the entrance, will be found very useful. The gallery is open to the public every week-day from ten to four, on Sundays from ten to three. There is no charge for admission on Sunday, Monday, Tuesday and Thursday ; on other days a small fee is charged. The following are a few of the most remarkable paintings : HuphaeVs " Madonna di San SisTo," the acknowledged gem of the collection. It is in the best style of tlie great master, and was painted only a few years be- fore his death. A room is set apart for this picture^ and at the farther extremity another room is set apart for tlie masterpiece of the younger Hnlhein, ".Jacob Meyer, Burgomaster of Bale, with his family, kneeling before the Vir- gin." This is considered the greatest treasure of the gallery, next to the great work of Ra- phael. Corregio, "The Virgin and the Infant Jesus in the Manger," known as "The Night," consi- dered the best work of the painter ; Titian, "Tribute Money, "The Virgin and Child and Saints," "Reclining Venus;" Paul Vero- nese, " The Adoration," " The Marriage in Cana;" Guido, " Bac- chus," "" Venus ; " Albert Diirer, " Crucifixion," " Portrait of a man in black ; " Rembrandt, " Portrait of his ]\Iother;" "His own por- trait, with his wife sitting on his knee;" Rubens, "The Judgment of Paris," "The Boar Hunt;" Ruisdael, "The Hunt;" Van Dijck, "Charles I., his Queen and their children," " Portrait of Ry- kaerts the painter." The portrait in crayon of the " Belle thocola- diire," once a waitress in a cafe in Vienna, and a celebrated beauty, GERMANY. Route 99.— COLOGNE TO LEIPSIC. 419 afterwards marrii-d to an Austrian of rank, is much ailinin'd. The Jlistoriciil Museum, or li'iistkam liter, occupies nine apart- ments of tlie west and south winj^s of the Zwing^er. It is the richest collection of its kind in German}', and contains arms and armour of ancient Germany, costumes and other objects of historical interest. In the entrance hall is a cupboard Napoleon and tlie boots which he wore at the battle of Dresdiii. Open on 'I'hursday only, from eight to twelve and from two to six, by tickets. At otiier times admission is had by pur- chase of a permit which costs two thalers and admits six persons. J'he .lapunese I'uUice L'nllectioiis comprise antiquities, medals, por- celain and the lloyal Library. DRESDEN. once used by Luther, liis drinking cup and sword; in the Hunting Room, No. 2, the Ininfing-horn of Henry IV. of France; in the Battle lioom, No. 4, the armour of Cnis- tavus Adolphus, which he left at VVeissenfels before the battle of Liitzen, with his sword and baton of command, and the armour of .lolm Sobieski ; in the Pistol Room, the pistols of Charles \ 1 1 . of Swe- den and of Louis .\l\'.; in the Parade Room, the hat and sword of Peterthe Great, a saddle used by The Collection of Antiquities or tlie Augusteuni, occupies twelve apartments of the ground-floor. It was founded in i7i?5 by .Au- gustus I., who bought the col- lection of Prince Chigi, and it lias been since augmented by the col- lection of Count Hriihl. It is open on Wednesday's and Snturdays, from May 1 to Oct. 31, from nine to one. It contains busts of the sove- reigns of Saxony, the Borghese Gladiator, the Amazon repaired 420 Route 99.— COLOGNE TO LEIPSIC. Germany. by Thorwaldsen, Adrian as a Gla- diator, and busts of many other Roman emperors and of mj^tholo- gical personages. The tenth sa- loon contains bronze figures and Egyptian antiquities ; the eleventh, vases and other objects in terra- cotta; the twelfth, Saxon anti- quities. The collection of porcelain on the lower floor contains 600,000 objects, classified in chronological order, from the earliest produc- tions of Bottger to the modern products of the roj'al manufactory of Meissen. There is a rich col- lection of the porcelains of Sevres, China and Japan. The Rfli/al Library occupies, on the second and third floors, three galleries and twenty-four saloons, and contains 300,000 volumes, 2,000 early editions of early printed works, 3,000 manuscripts, and a rich collection of geogra- phical charts. The Grune Gewolbe, on " Green Vault," in the Royal Palace, is a collection of artistic objects, which is considered the richest of its kind in Europe. They amount in number to 3,000, and occupy eight saloons. In the first saloon are bronzes ; in the second, ivory carvings ; in the third, mosaics, sliells, corals, &c.; in the fourtli, objects of gold and silver; in the fifth, engraved stones and wood carvings ; in the sixth, jewels, pearls, and sculp- tures, comprising more than 250 objects of great value. Of tliis number there are more than 100 carved in ebony and ivory ; a pearl of the size of a hen"s egg, repre- senting the dwarf of Charles II. of Spain ; pearls transfoi-med into grotesque personages ; a golden egg enclosing a golden fowl, a crown, a signet ring, and a dia- mond ring ; a basket of flowers in enamel ; an automaton spider ; some vases of onyx ; two bracelets ornamented with shell cameos ; some pictures in enamel ; in the seventh, objects in alabaster, wax and wood ; in the eighth (the most interesting of all), arms, jewels and other articles of value, espe- cially the works of Dinglinger, a celebrated goldsmith of the 18th century. His most celebrated work is " The Court of the Great Mogul," a group in gold and ena- mel, upon a plate of silver four feet four inches square, of 132 persons. The artist, with his family and fourteen workmen, was occupied upon this work for eight years, during which time he received as the price of his labour 58,400 thalers. Here is also the largest piece of onyx known, 6f in. by ^ in. In this room is the Saxon Regalia, including the Electoral Sword borne by the Saxon firinces at the coronations^andalarge and costly collection of chains, collars and orders formerly worn by tlie Saxon princes, including the Garter, the Golden Fleece, Polish Eagle, &c. One case is filled with sapphires, emeralds, rubies and pearls, an- other with diamonds, among which is the famous green brilliant, weighing forty carats. Public Promenades. — We have already mentioned the Briihl terrace ; the alleys which separate the town from the suburbs ; the Botanical garden, and Japanese palace gardens, besides which is the Grosse Garten, laid out in the 17t]i century, and embellished by Augustus II., bemg the most extensive public park in Saxony. It lost a great part of its statues in the wars of tlie present and last century. It is the principal plea- sure-ground of the people of Dres- den, containing several cafes and a summer theatre. The basin of the swans, and some groups and GERMANY. Route 99. —COLOGNE TO LEIPSIC. 421 vases in inarhlc, are notice- able. JMoNUMENTAL Statues. — In the Neustadt, near tlie end of tlie bridge, is an equestrian statue of Augustus II. In front of tlie theatre is tlie statue of Carl vou Weber. The Saxon Switzerland. NDEIl this name (in German, Suthsische Schueiz), is comi)re- hended that ])art ot the mountain district of .Meissen which extends on both banks of the Elbe, from Liebethal to the frontier of Bohemia, and from Falkenberg to Schneeberg, oc- cupying a surface of '23 German miles. These mountains are n;- markable for tlieir calcareous for- mations, which admit of much variety, and add tothf j>icturcS(|U('- ness of the country. The rocks are in part bare, in part their slopes are covered with foliage and firs. The highest summits are : on tlie left bank of the Elbe, the Zscbirnbtein, 1,870 ft. ; tlie Harlenstein, 1,8,55 ft. ; the Kotz- stein, l,57ii ft. ; the hi/nigstnin, 1,870 ft. Upon the right bank: the Giitsse-Wiiiierherg, 1,883 ft. ; the hteine Winterbeig, 1,6K) ft.; the Prehisch T/ior,l,4-Wft. ; the l.Uieii- itein, 1,368 it.; the Falkenher-^, 1,952 ft. ; the Honltei-i;, 1,210 ft. Saxon Switzerland is a favourite summer rendezvous of tourists. Dresden is the starting-point for excursions to this interesting re- gion, whence the most attractive localities may be readied by rail- way or by steamer. The best plan is to go by railway and return by steamer, descending the Kibe. The most interesting points are : The Bastei i the hulistall ; the Grosse U'interberg ; the Prehisch Tlwr ; and Konigstein. Inns and hotels are found evrrywhcre. The Poisberg, lur.xT i'illiiitz; the I.ilien- ilein,t\u- liareiistein, aud the Pupst- stein, are also much visited. Guides are found at the various Stopping places, who are paid one tlialer per day; half a thaler for half a day. Horses, carriages, and j)onies may be hired at all the principal places. On the railway, stoppages are made at the following stations : Pirna, Ratheii, Konigsstein, Schandau, and lierrnskretschen; these stations are upon the line from Drt'sden to Prague. Tlie steamboats stop at the following places : Loschwitz, Pillnitz, Pir- na, Welilen, Ratlien, Konigsstein, Schandau, lierrnskretschen, Me- dergruiid, and Tctschen. Three days are recjuircd to see all of the most inti^resting places, and they may be best seen in the following manner : liy rail, from Dresden to Pirna, and to Piitzsclia, crossing the Elbe by ferry to W'ehlen ; through the valleys of Wehlen and Zscharne- grund to the Bai,lei. Descend the jiath to Kathen, and take carriage to Schandau. By carriage to the Ilaideiniihle. On foot to the Kulistall, the Grosse W interberg, the Prehisch Tlior to lierrnskret- schen ; by steamboat or rail to Kimigstein, returning to Dresden by rail. A day may be profitably de- voted to the Palace at Pillnitz, ascent of the Persberg, a walk across the Liebethaler Grand, Uttewalder Grund, Zschiirne- grund, and to the Bastei, sleeping at Hohnsti'in. Two routes lead from Dresden to Pillnitz: the shorter along the left bank of the Elbe ; the longer, but more agreeable, along the right bauk. 422 THE SAXON SWITZERLAND. GERMANY. PiLLNiTZ, (Hotel : Goldener Loue), population, 5,000, is the summer residence oi the king. The jialace combines a mixture of the Roman and Chinese styles. After the fire of 1818, it was re- built. The chapel and the dining- room are decorated with frescoes. The park is laid out in the French fashion, and there are some green- houses and a botanic garden worth visiting. Pillnitz is celebrated in history as the place where the treaty of coalition against France was concluded, Feb. 17tli, 1792. Crossing the village of Pillnitz, and ascending the Persberg. a fine view may be obtained. The road from Pillnitz to Lohmen lies by the side of aremarkable glen, called Liehethaler Griind. Lohmen is an old town, with the ruins of an old castle. From Lohmen we proceed to Utteivalde, 2 miles. At the last house of this village, there is a descent to a narrow valley, called Ottowalder Grund. In the nar- rowest part, called FeLenlhor, tlie brook occupies the whole width of the valley. In ten minutes, a small grotto is reached, called Tenfeisk'uche (Devil's Kitchen), whence, bearing to the left, the ascent is made to the Baslei. A shorter and more interesting route is that by Potzscha ( Railway station). From this point, Weh- len, on the opposite bank of the Elbe, may be reached by steam- boat. From Wehlen, the route lies through the Zschiirne Grund, a rude ravine, enclosed between two woody mountains ; and upon leaving the ravine by the road to the right, the Bastei is reached in ten minutes. Tliere is an inn close to the Bastei. The Bastei, 760 ft. above the Elbe, the most interesting point of Saxon Switzerland, is a pre- cipitous rock, terminating in several peaked summits. A tower has been erected upon the plat- form, whence one of the most ex- tensive views of the Elbe and the bordering country may be ob- tained. Russell saA's of it : " The pros- pect is, of its kind, unique in Europe. You hover on a pin- nacle, at an elevation of 600 ft. above the Elbe, which sweeps round the bottom of the precipice. Behind, and up along the winding river, on the same bank, rise similar precipitous cliifs The striking feature is, that in the bosom of this amphitheatre — a plain of the most varied beauty — huge columnar hills start up at once from the ground, at a great distance from each other, over- looking, in lonely and solemn grandeur, each its own portion of the domain. The most remark- able of them are the Lilienstein and Konigstein, which, nearly in the centre of the picture, tower 900 ft. above the Elbe." From the Bastei, in half an hour, Rathen, a town on the left bank of the Elbe, opposite the railway station, may be reached. The road descends by a stone bridge, which clears the points of the rock, and from which the tourist looks down the precipice beneath him. Arrived in the valley, he bears to the left, through the Amselgrund towards Rathe- walde. The road on the right leads to Hohnstein. From Hohnstein, the ascent is made to the Brand, a rock like that of the Bastei, whence also a charming view is obtained. De- scending from the summit by a ravine, and partly by steps, the high road from Hohnstein to Schandau is reached. From this point the banks of the Elbe are GERMANY. THE SAXON SWirZKULAND. 423 reached in tliri'i" ((iiartcrs of an hour, ami in twenty minutes more, Schanchiii, a small town on the Elbe, and on the iiohcmiau fron- tier. IMulesmay bchiredat Scliandau for excursions to the Kuhstall, to the Kleine W interber-,', to the Grosse \\ interber^, to the Prc- bisch 'I'lior. From Scliandau to Papststein, is an hour and a tpiarter's journey ; ascendiiif^ on the left towards Kleine llennersdorf, from near the station, and keening on the border of the wood, the summit of tlie Papststein is attained, and an extensive panorama enjoyed. The hnliitiitt (l,OtJU ft.), pre- sents the form of a door pierced through the rock, y.3 ft. high, from which we look down into the deep ravine called llnhiclds-gntud. This place served, during the Thirty Years' W ar, :is a refuge for the cattle, and it is thought that from this circumstance, it derived its name, which means " Cow stall." The descent is made from the Ilabichts-grund, to remount anew, in the first place, the little Winter- berg, 1,610 ft., and afterwards, the great \\ interberg, 1,883 ft. From the summit can be seen the mountains of Saxony, Bohemia, and Silesia. An hour will suffice to take the tourist from this point to the Pre- biscli Thor (1,'110 ft.), similar iii formation to the Kuhstall, where there is a magniticent view. KoMGSTEiN is a small town situated at the foot of the rock which is occupied by the fortress of the same name. The fortress, the only one in Saxony, is readied in 40 minutes. It was put in possession of Prussia after the war of 18(J6. It is half a league in circumference, and contains a well-cistern 616 ft. deep. In time of war the trea- sure and the archives of the kingdom are taken there. The garrison consists of 400 men. A fee oi' one tluiter is paid for every party of eight jiersons. There is a tine view- from the ramparts, and the ascent and jiromenade occupy usually two hours. Opposite KiJnigstein, on the right bank of the Elbe, is Lilien- stein (1,368 ft.). On the com- mencement of the Seven Years' War, October 1.5, 1756, the Saxon army, 16,000 strong, surrendered liere to Frederick the Great. The French formed around its base in 1813 an entrenched camp. There is a line view from the summit. From KiJiiigstein, the valley of JJielagrund, interesting for its geological formation, may be visited ; the Scliweizermiihle, and the villages of Kilund and Schnee- berg, from which last niaj' be un- dertaken (witlj a guide) the ascent of the Sciineeberg (2,415 ft.). The return to Dresden is through Pima, on the bank of the Elbe, and a station on the railway. Upon a rock above the town is the ancient castle of Soimen- stein at the present time a lunatic asylum ; it was taken in 163'.' by the Sweden, and in 1758 by the Prussians, bj- whom its external defences were destroyed. 424 Route 100.— BERLIN TO HAMBURG. OEItMANy. Route 100. BERLIN TO HAMBURG. 175j miles ; 1st class (express), 300 sgr.; 2nd, 210 sgr. ; 1st class {ordinary), 225 s^r.; 2nd, 170 sgr. ; 3rd, 125 sgr. Reaving Berlin we proceed by tlie park of Cbarlottenburg, and crossing- tbe Spree and tbe Havel, reach Spandau (4^ miles), (Hotel: Adler), popula- tion, 9,000. It is a fortified town, situated at the confluence of the above-named rivers, and is, so to speak, the cdtadel of Berlin. Its industry is very extensive. It contains cannon and other foun- dries, military store-houses, a powder-mill, a manufactory of small arms, laboratories for the artillery, &c. Tlie Church of St. Nicholas, of the 14th centui-y, possesses many interesting- tombs. The Finken- knig, in the environs of the town, is a favourite promenade. At WiTTENBEKGE (74 miles), the line from JMagdeburg falls in, crossing- the river by a long bridge. Beyond We^idisch'- Warnow (83f miles), we enter tbe Grand Duchy of Mechlenberg-Schwerin, and shortly afterwards reach LuDwiGSLusT (73f miles), the summer residence of the Grand Duke, (Hotels: de Weimar, Gross- hn-zog von Mechlenberg), popula- tion, 5,500. The Chateau contains a picture gallery and a collection of antiquities. The park affords agreeable promenades. In the Russian Chapel is the tomb of the Grand Duchess Helena. Passing Hagenow (116 miles), where there is a branch to Schwerin and Jiosfoc^, we reach Boitzenburg (134^ miles), beyond which we enter the Duchy of Lauenburg, and crossing the Stecknitz, arrive at BucHEN (144miles). From hence a branch line goes to Lubeck (see Route 98). Passing several un- important places we then reach Bergedorf (1625 miles), a town of about 2,000 inhabitants, formerly belonging- in common to Hamburg and Liibeck. The dis- trict is called Vierlaiide. The cos- tumes of the peasantry are very striking. The next station is Hamburg (see Route 98). RODTE 101. BERLIN TO STETTIN. 84 miles ; 1st class, 120 sot. ; 2nd, 90 sgr. : 3rd, 60 sgr. HE first station after leaving Berlin is Ber- NAu (14^ miles), noted for the defence it made against the Hussites in the fifteenth century. Neustadt-Eberswalde (2S miles ) is a manufacturing town of about 5,000 inhabitants, situ- ated on the Finow Canal. The environs are delightful. Some distance beyond Neustadt, near Chorin, we see the remains of the ancient Abbey of the Cistercians, now an hotel. We next reach Ancermunde, near which the line skirts the lake of Faarstein. Proceeding along embankments through the valleys of the Ran- dow and the Welse, and the marsh of Poinmerenzdorf, we pass Passow (56^ miles), and near Tantow (TO miles) we observe, on the right, the lake called Dummsche See. Afterwards, crossing the fortifica- tions, we enter Stettin (84 miles), (Hotels: de Prusse, drei Kronen)y GERMANY. Route lOl.—BERLlX TO STETTIN. 433 population 74,000. It is situated on tlw left bank of thf Oder, and is connected with tlie suburb of Lastiidie, on the rij^ht bank, by four bridfjes. It is a fortress, and tlie capital of the pnjvince of Fo- merania, and the cliief commercial port of I'russia. The Castle is of tlie sixteenth century. The court contains a bronze statue of the Great Elector of Hrandeiiburt^. From the tower there is an ex- tensive view. The ll6tel de Ville is of the thirteenth century. Op- fosite this buildin"^ is the Bourse. n the h'ouissplatz are marble statues of Frederick the Great and Frederick \\ illiam 111. The out-port of Stettin isSwixK- MUNDi'., on the left bank of the Svine, one of the three mouths of the Oder, where (he depth of water is sufficient for the larg-est ships. It contains 7,000 inha- bitants, and is a much-fre(|uented bathing-jilace, (Hotels: Drei Kro- fieiiy de Prune). Considerable imjirovements have been made in tlie port of late years, and an ex- tensive traffic is carried on with all parts of the world. Route 102. BERLIN TO DRESDEN. 117 miles; 1st class, 5 th. 15 sgr. ; ^2nd, .3 Ih. 20 sgr.; 3rd, '■> ih. 10 S'T. N leaving Berlin pass, on the left. we the Kreuzbertr, and obtain a view of the tower of on the right. The first is Gross Bk.kken (12 Here a caat-iron obelisk, surmounted by a cross, is raised in memory of the victory gained by the Prussians over the French in 1813. Luckenwalde {302 niiles), Teltow station miles ) a town of 4,500 inhabitants, ou the .\ utile, is celebrated for its cloth manufacture. We next reach JrTi:Kiif)f;K ( 40 miles), population 4,}!()0. 1 1 is surrounded by ancient walls, and has some fine old gates. In the Cliurch of St. \icliolas is preserved the indulgence - box taken from the monk Tetzel — when filled with money, the pro- duce of the sale of indulgences — by a robber who had ])urciiased of him an indulgence for any sin he might commit. Here the line for Leipsic leaves that for Dresden. We pass some unimportant places, and reach Rodkuau (8y| miles), and, crossing a long viaduct, join the Leipsic and Dresden line near Riesa Ji ncmon. (For the remainder of the journey, see Route 99.) Route 103. BERLIN TO FRANKFORT- ON-TIIE-MAIN (bv Eisen- ach). 339 iniles ; 1st class, 20 th. 21 sgr. ; 2nd, 13 th. 20 sgr.; 3rd, 9 th. 20 sgr. ' 1 1 E route as far as Jiiter- bogk (40 miles), is described in Route 102. We now leave on the left the line to Dresden, and [)ro- ceed to \ViTrENBERG (60;^ miles), {Hotels: ]\'eintraube,* Sladt Lon- don ), population, 13,000. It is situated on the Elbe. Here it was that the great Reformer, Martin Luther, some time a monk, and afterwards a professor of theology at the once famous University of Wittenberg, posted up his 95 theses in opposition to tiie preten- sions of the Roman Catholic Church, and here he burnt the 426 Route 103.— BERLIN TO FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. Papal Bull which condemned him. He was buried, in 1546, in the Sclosskirehe, wliich also con- tains the tombs of his supporter, Melancthon, and of Frederick the Wise and John the Steadfast, Electors of Saxony and his friends. The ancient doors of the Scliloss- kirclie were replaced, in 1858, by others of bronze, on which are en- graved the subjects of his various theses. The Town Church con- tains two paintings by Cranacli representing the preaching of Luther, and baptismal fonts exe- cuted by Hermann Vischer. The ancient convent of the Augustines, in which Luther was a monk, and which was afterwards the Univer- sity, is now a Protestant Seminary. Visitors are shown his cell, and various articles tliat belonged to him. His house is now attached to the scliool. Near it is an oak, planted on the site of that under which lie burnt the Pope's Bull. The RutJiliaus contains his portrait and those of other Re- formers, by Cranach. His statue, by Schadow, is in the JMarket- place. Leaving on the right the Anhalt line, we cross the Elbe over a bridge of 12 arclies, and passing Desaan (82 miles), in the Ducal Palace of wliich there is a cabinet of antiquities, some manuscripts of Luther, Ike, we reach Kothen (95 miles). From hence to Halle (105 miles), see Route 99. Leaving Halle we cross the Elster and Saale near their con- fluence, and aiTive at Merseburg (114 miles), a town of 10,000 in- habitants. The Cathedral, of the 13th centurj', has a richly orna- mented portal, some paintings by Cranacli and Albert Diirer, and a monument of the Emperor Ru- dol])li of Suabia. At Corbetha ( I'JO miles), the line from Lcipsic falls in. Weissenfei.s (127 miles), is a town of 11, loo inhabitants, situated on tlie Saale, and has a fine port. The body of Gustavus Adolphus, who fell at the battle of Liitzen, was brought here and embalmed in one of the chambers of the Amxtliaus ; partof the wall, marked with his blood, is still to be seen. The ancient castle is converted into a barrack. A little west of the station, near the railway, is a little house marked with an N., in which Napoleon passed the first night after the battle of Leip- sic. We see on the right the Chd- teau fie Gesaek, and the Tour de Schaiiburg, before reaching Naumrurg (133 miles), (Ho- tels : Preussischer Hot, Sdchsischer Hof), population, 15,000, situated on the Saale, and surrounded by hills planted with vineyards. The Cathedral, completed in 1249, is a mixture of the Romanesque and Gothic styles. The pillars of the choir are adorned with sculptures, and tliere is a handsome rood screen. In the Stadt kirche is a painting by Cranach, " Christ Blessing Little Children." Leav- ing Naumburg, we see, on the left, the village of Schulporta, containing a school at wliich Klopstock, Lessing, and Fichte were educated. We several times cross the Saale, which flows through a picturesque defile cele- brated in the military annals of 1806 and 1813. At Kcesen (138 miles) are some salt works and baths ; on the left are the ruins of Rudekhurg ; furtheroft', the towers of Sualeck. About 4 miles from Stadtsalza (143 miles) is Auer- stadt, and the field of battle of Jena, where Napoleon defeated the Prussians, 14th October, 1806. The most convenient point on the railway from which to visit the battle field is Apolda, the station five miles farther on. Route lOS.— BER UN TO FR.l\KFl)RT-0\-TII E-M.\l\. 427 Weimah (160 milfs), (Hotels: Russischer ilnf, Kibpriiiz), ])Oi)u- latiuii, 15,<)U(), situafptl on the ]lni. It is the rosulcnci' of the Griiiul Duke of Saxi'-W fimar, ami derives its f^ri^at cflebrity from tlie number of illustrious writers who have lived and died there. It has been called the " Necropolis of the poets of Ger- many; " — Goethe, Herder, Wie- land, Schiller, have all resided here. The houses of the two first and of the last are still to be seen. There are statues of them, and another of ('harles Augustus, wlio was Grand Duke in tiieir time. In the ^tiidtkirche is a jiaintin^ of the Crucifixion by Cranach, por- traits of Cranach, Luther, and ^lelaucthon, the tomb of Herder, and the statue of L. t'ranach. The Residenz .Schloss is handsomely de- corated ; the apartments dedicated to the four authors above-named, are adorned with frescoes illustra- ting their works. Admission, 10 sgr. Cioethe's house, in the Goethe Platz, is shown on Fridays. It contains most of the furniture which it contained at tlie time of his death. Schiller's house is in Schiller Strasse. In the Castle Park, on the bank of the Hm, to the southward, Goethe's country house is situated. Erfuiit (174 miles), (Hotel: SUber'a), popiilation, 37,000. A very old town, once the capital of Thuriuicia, now a Prussian for- tress. The C.\Tiii-DR.\r, was built at various times, between the I'ith and 15th centuries. It contains a bronze relief of the crowning of the \'irg-in; a painting of the Holy Family by Cranach; some otiier old jiaintings ; a carved pul])it designed by Schinkel, a bell called the great Susan, &.c. The Martiiistift, now an orphan asylum, was ibrmerly the Augus- tine convent. The cell occupied by Luther is shown. His IJible and other relics are j)reserved here. The H6,el de I'itle is of the 13th century ; in the I'luce is the statue of Kul.'iiid. A congress of sovereigns was convened here by Napoleon in 1H07. GoiMA ( I'.H miles), (//i>/p/.v: der Molir, Deiiisclier lloj, Der Riese), population, lit,.")00, the chief town of the Uucliy of Sax-Coburg- Gotha. The Schloss Friedensteiii, a conspicuous building on a height, contains .some good pictures by Cranach, Holbein, \'an Dyck,and others ; a cabinet of engravings ; a collection of gems and curiosi- ties ; a collection of coins and medals; a Library; aM\iseumof Natural History ; a Jaj)anese and Chinese .Museum. EisKXAcii (iilO miles), (Hotel: Cirossherzog von ■'iachsen*), popula- tion, I'i,. 500, the chief town of the Thuringerwald, is pleasantly situ- ated, and is surrounded by wooded hills. It contains nothing to attract the attention of tourists. On an eminence near the town, stands the Casti.e of WAuniinf;, celebrated as the scene of Luther's imprisonment, from ^lay 1."}'J1 to March 15'2'2. His capture and confinement were due to the friendship of the Elector of Saxonj', who knew that his life was in danger, after his appearance before the Dietof Worms. During his imprisonment he wrote several works, and translated a consider- able portion of the Bible. The chamber in which he lived is shown ; it contains the tiible which ho used, also portraits of his parents, by L. Cranach. It wa.s here, as he writes, that he was subjected to attacks from the Evil One, whom he repulsed b3- throw- ing his inkstand at him. ISkura J I' NOTION (iJy-1 miles). Fi'lda ('281 miles), (Hotel: Kiirfiirst), a fortified town of about 14,000 428 Boute iOS.—BERLIN TO FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. inJiabitants, situated on a river of the same name, in a rich valley. The CalhedruL is modern. Gelniiausen, (323 miles), {Ho- tels : Hirsch, Hessisctiev Hof), popu- lation, 3,750. It is situated on the Zinzig. The Emperor Frederick Barbarossa made )t his residence, and built a palace here in 1144. The ruins are seen on an island, opjjosite the lower portion of the town. The Cathedral, built in the early part of the thirteenth cen- tury, is in the transition style from round to pointed architecture. It has atwisted spire, a cupola, round and pointed arches. Hanau, (329 mi\es), (Hotels: harlsbiirg. Post), is a town of 18,000 inhabitants, situated near the confluence of the Zinzig and the Main. The largest manufactories of jewellery in Germany are here. In the neighbourhood, on the left of tlie route to Frankfort, is Fhillipsruhe, the country residence of the late Elector of Hesse-Cassel. IS ear Hanau, Napoleon, after the battle of Leipsic, fought a battle with the Bavarians and Austrians, in which the Allies were de- feated. • Fr ankfort-ox-the-Main, (339 miles), (Hotels: de Ri ssie,* d'Ang LETERRE,* Scliuunn, dit Noid, Union, Romisclier haiaer, de HoLlande ), population, 84,000, the most ancient and important of the free cities of Germany, is situ- ated on the right bank of the Alain. It was a free town and the seat of the Germanic Diet up to 1866, when it was annexed to Prussia. It is a compactly built town, and possesses some wide handsome * The proprietors of the Russie and d'Angleterre are extensive dealers in wines, and their cellars are well wurth a visit. It is worth inentioninp as one of the curiosities ot the wine trade that the Messrs. Drexel of the Kussie sell their Rauenthalerberg, which took a premium at the London Exhibition of lS(i2, for \H)s. per bottle, wholesale. Streets. The new town is well built, its principal street, the Zeil, being one of the finest in Germany. The old town has many narrow streets and quaint old houses with the gables overhanging the lower stories. The greatestornament of Frank- fort IS a promenade, or series of gardens, which extend round three sides of the town. It has numerous public edifices, pro- minent among which is the Homer, or town-hall, a venerable and interesting structure. In one of its halls, the electors of the Empire met for the election of the Emperor. In anotlier, the Kaisersaal, the Emperor was banqueted after his election, being waited on at table by princes and officers of the empire. The ceil- ing of this hall has been richly decorated by modern artists, and its walls contain portraits of the German emperors from. Conrad I. to Francis II. Tlie most remarkable of the churches is the Dom, or Cathe- dral, an ancient structure, sur- mounted by a fine tower, interest- ing as the scene of the coronation of the F^mperors. It was badly damaged by fire in 1868, but is being restored. St. Ciitlierine's Church has a fine altar of black marble, and numerous paintings and monuments. Other public buildings are : the Saalhof, on the site of the ancient palace of the Karlovingian Emperors; the large palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis in the Zeil, the Exchange ; Theatre; the house in which Luther lived, in the Dom Platz ; and that in which Gbthe was born, No. 74, Hirschgraben. A colos- sal statue in bronze has been erected on the Gothe Platz to the memory of the great German poet. A gi'oupof three statues in lionour of Gutemberg, Faust, and Schbf- fer, the inventors of printing, has > a. 7i -3 o :i2 o V. ► I !^ o to ^tiiCS>3a&eoo>-j 0^ "-n 4« "^ O ^ ^ I ^ r ?^ ^ r ? ? j:" '"s ?• '^ i I I I ^ r !3 r I: I ? IMi:RB£:R£r. aim Jlliiljlirira (ifirirtnfctUrr) mis gtfrlitn Route 103.— BERLIN TO FRANKFORT-OX-TIIK-MAIX. 429 been placed in the Rossmarkt. In the ScliillfT lM:it7,, is a liiu' bronze statue of Scliillcr. Krankt'ort is ricli in collections connected with literature and art. Tiif princijial of these are the Stiidel Museum, contaiuin;j^ a fine gallery of pictures; the Senkenburij ^lu- senm of Natural History, con- taining many rare specimens brouijlit from Egypt, Nubia, and Abyssinia ; and a l.ibrary, con- taining I'Jl), ()()() volumes. In the garilen of the banker Bethmann, near the Friedburg gate, in a buililing erected for it, is tlie beau- tiful statue of Ariadne, by Dan- necker. It is shown daily from 10 to 1. Fee, '21 kr. to the atten- dant. The new Palmen Ganen, a sort of winter garden with a fine collection of ])Iants, is well worth visiting. The city has considerable manu- factures; but by far the most im- portant business of Frankfort is in money and banking. The shops of Frankfort are among the finest inF".uroj)e, and someof them justly rank among the sights of the city, as Bidders (bazaar, fancy goods, Russia leather, ike. ), Tacchi's suc- cessor ( Bohemian glass and crys- tal), Bing, Jun., 6«: Co. (depot of the Royal Dresden porcelain fac- tory). For the convenience of the great number of tourists who visit the citj- we deem it proper to depart from our u>ual practice and to in- dicate a few of tiie most reputable dealers. F>iedmann (jewellery), Hoff Brothers (dry goods), Gold- schmidt (antiquities), J\I. Doctor (white goods and embroideries), Staudt ibc Jung (Berlin-wool and canvas work ), Pojip ( ladies' dress- maker), R. Haas (modes), Strauss & Co. (Brussels laces), Herz (confections), \'olkert (tailor). Martini ( hatter), L. A. A. Schmidt (gentlemen and ladies furnishing goods), Frankenbach Brothers (Frencii boots). English booksellers — Jos. Baer, Carl Jiigel. American and En- glish bankers — Koch, Lauteren, iSc Co. Photographs, ice. — H. Keller. Cafes — Cafe Milani, Kursaal Milani. (.'onnected with the city by a stone bridge 9.iO ft. long, resting on fourt<>en arches, is tln' suburb of S.vrnsEiNH.vusKN, on the south bank of the river. On the bridge is a statue of Charlemagne, and near the end, in Sachseidiausen, is the old palace of the Knights of the Teutonic Order, now con- verted into a barrack. Route 104. BERLIN TO ST. PETERS- BURG, BY KOXIGSBURG. 1,042 miles; 1st class, 47th. 20sgr. ; 2nd, 36th. lEAVING Berlin we pass several unimpor- tant places, part ot the way lying tlirough fir plantations. Fuankfort-on-the Odi.r (51 miles), (Hotels: Deut- sches Haus, Goldener Adler, Priiiz Vim Pretissen), population, 11 ,.500. The Miirienkirche or Oherkirche is of the Ijth century, restored; its high altar is of finely carved wood ; it contains some fine painted windows, and a bronze candela- brum of the 14th century. In the town is a monument to Prince l^eopold of Brunswick. We leave, on tne right, the line to Breslau, and reacli Cistuix (69 miles), ( Hntels : Kronprinz, Adler), popu lation, 6,000. It is situated at the confluence of the W arthe and the Oder, and is a manufacturing town 430 Route 104.— BERLIN TO ST. PETERSBURG. Germany, of some importance. In the Castle, now used as a barrack, Frederick the Great was inijirisoned by order of his father, in consequence of his attempt to escape to England. About a mile distant, to the north, is the plain of Zorndorf, v\Jiere Frederick gained, in 1758, a great victory over the Russians. Laxds- BERG (79 miles), (Hotel: Kiiiiig von Preusse/i), population 16,800, situated on the Warthe, is an im- portant manufacturing town. The railway traverses a large plain, affording glimpses, from time to time, of the sails of the vessels on the river. At Kreuz (117 miles) the line is crossed by that from Stettin to Posen. We proceed through a country presenting alternations of cultivated patches and sandy plains covered witli pines. BnoMBEnc (208 miles) is a town of 22,474 inhabitants, situated on the Brahe, not far from its confluence with the Vis- tula. There are considerable manufactures carried on here. DiHscHAu (287 miles) situated on the left bank of the Vistula. Here the line branches off on the left to Dantzic. We now cross the river, which is 1,200 ft. wide here, over a bridge of about 870 yards long. We pass over the island of Nogath, formed by two arms of the Vistula, of which the left retains its name, the right, called the Xogath, flowing into the Frische Haff, a freshwater gulf, formed by the influx of the Nogath, the Elbing, and other rivers, and connected with the Baltic by a strait. This delta is protected against inundation by dykes, like those in Holland. Tlie jSogath is crossed over a bridge upwards of 300 ft. long. Marienburg (298 miles), (Hotels: K'unig von Preussen, Hochmeister), popula- tion 8,000, was formerly the seat of the Teutonic order. 1 he ancient Gothic Chateau of the Grand Master was built at various periods during the 13th and 14th centuries. It is worth a visit. The church contains the tombs of several of the grand masters. Elbing (306 miles), (Hotels: Stadt Berlin, Kiiniglicher Hof), population, ^5,539. It is situated on the river of the same name, which falls into the Frische HafF, upon which there are steamers three times a week to Konigs- berg, and through which it has access to the Baltic. Brauns- BERG (331 miles), a town of 8,000 inhabitants, on the Passarge, has several public educational esta- blishments. KoNiGSBERG (389 miles), (Hotels: DeutschesHaus,du Nord, de Priisse, Sans Souci), population, 102,000. This was formerly the capital of Prussia, and the resi- dence of the Electors of Bran- denburg, and is a fortress of the first-class, situated on the Pregel, a few miles above its influx into the Frische Half. Tlie Cathedral, a fine Gothic building of the 14th century, is situated on an island. It contains a marble monument of the JVIargrave Albert of Brandenburg, and several other tombs; amongst them, one of Kant, the great metaphysician, who was a native of Kcinigsberg; his house, in the Prinzessin SlrassCy is pointed out. The University, established in 1544, has a library of 60,000 vols. The Palace, built in 1257 by Ottakar, King of Bohe- mia, has been the residence of the Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order, and of the Dukes of Prus- sia. In its cliapel, in 1701, Fre- derick I. placed the crown upon his own head, on taking the title of King of Prussia. Underneath this chapel is a large hall, 300 ft. long, 60 wide, and about 20 high, called the Moskowitzersaal. There is a beautiful view from the tower. I he Muieam, containing about mssirrsTiEiiT. THE RHINE from MAYENCE to COBLENZ. jji", '^ '^Af^lwiA^A "S . ^ ^nij/wfem .j ^^:irf' ' fifij f't,wi f) '"'^^ (iuy,.(,.-l.,7fh , ■■-V.,.11/ r, :// m^uprn/ifnie hr/Ji ^'ri-t'litn/urslifini \ IH E S eft,ri/i^,'fl'''/, I'.nqi'isUuh / ' .Met/ J'aiii ^chionoeiiheim *' '^-' 'flarienborn ^^!^ n S m'-rlieiiii ^ \\an-^. /Sn;t. dim J_ Apple ton's Exiropeaj] Giiide Book. Malbv >i- Sons, London. oF.nMANY. Route 10 i.—RERLIX TO ST. PETERSBURG. t3l 230 paintinpfs, is open to tl»e pub- lic Irom 11 to 2 oil Suinliiys; striin;^ers aru admitted i-vi-ry diiv tor a fee of" 10 .<:>)•. Tlie Rotial Lihrary contains about iJOO.ODO V(j)iim<'S, besides several of Lutlier's maniiscrijits. 'llie Oh^er- Vdlorit is situated on an old bas- tion at the east of tbe town ; it is provided with excellent instru- ments, and attained jjreat cele- brity under tlie iistronomer Hess^d. The h'6iiis;stlior is a handsome gate, adorned with statues of the Kinu^ Ottak;ir of Boiiemia, Duke Albert, and King; Frederick I. of Prussia. Tlie ancient citadel of Friediich!^burbrated for the san- guinary battle whicii took place there on the 7th of February, 1807, between the French, under Napoleon, and Prussi.ins. Twelve miles from Eylau is Friedland, where tiie French gained a vic- tory over the Prussians in June of the same year.] Instf.rbi-rg (4-18 miles), (Ho- tel: de Russie), is a busy manu- facturing town of 11,000 inhabi- tants. [Here a brancii line goes to Tiijjii r, Sio miles distant, cele- brated for the treaty of j)eace concluded tiiere, July 9. 1807.] We go on to Gitmhiniien (46^ miles), a manufacturing town of 6,500 inhabitants. Evdtkuiinex (48o miles) is the last (ierman station. ( For the remainder of the journey to St. Petersburg see Route lo/.) Route 105. TIIE RHINE, FROM M AV- ENGE TO COLOGNE. §f HE distance from .May- V^Ci ence to Cologne by tlie ^d^rj river is 116 English ^&'S& miles. The jjass-nger steamers usually occuj)y nine iiuurs in the passage between the two places. From Mayence to Co- blenz the time is usually five hours. In the travelling season steam- ers leave .Mayence for Cologne four or five times a day. The most convenient hours of depar- ture are 7^, 9^, and llj a.m., the last being from Castel, oppo- site Mayence upon the arrival of the morning express train from Frankfort. Steamers leave Cologne at 6 and 10 A.M. and 1 p.m. The time from Cologne to Mayence is usu- ally fourteen hours, to Coblenz eight hours. Tiie most comfortable .as well as the swiftest steamers are those called the " American steamers," one of which leaves Mayence every morning. They have deck saloons with windows tliroughout the whole length, and are com- fortably fitted up, somewhat after the manner of the American river steamers. I'he fare from Mayence to Cologne is, first class, "2 th. 12 sgr. ; second, 1 th. 18 Si^r. The fare from Alayence to Coblenz is, first class, 1 th. 24 sgr. ; second, 1 th. The most interesting part of the Rhine is that between May- ence and Bonn. Tiie boat which leaves Mayence at 11 J reaches Bonn before dark m 432 Route 105.— THE RHIl^E—MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. summer, but it is best to take tlie earlier boat, which reaches Cologne before dark. Mavence (^Hotels: d'Angle.terre, Rheinhcher Hof, Hollundischer Hof), population 43,000. This town is the Mogvntiacum of the Romans. It is the chief town of the Grand Duchy of the Hesse- Darmstadt, but has been gar- risoned by Prussia since 1866. It is situated on the left bank of the Rhine, opposite the mouth of the Main. The Cathedral, built in 978, has been many times de- stroyed by fire, and rebuilt on an enlarged scale, during the thir- teenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, but it suffered from the bombardment of the town by the Prussians in 1793, and from being converted into a magazine by the French in 1813. It is about 360 ft. long by 14S! ft. wide, and has six towers, of which the round-tower on the east side merits particular attention. At the northern entrance are two fine bronze doors. The interior has 56 pillars supporting the nave, fine frescoes, and painted windows, and many tombs of the Archbishops and Electors of Mayence. A slab is shown which formed part of the tomb of Fastrade, third wife of Char- lemagne. The principal tower is 390 ft. high ; from the gallery there is a tine view. In the open space near the Theatre is a bronze statue of Gu- temberg, tlie inventor of printing, by Thorwaldsen, erected in 1837. The house in which Gutemburg was born is sliown. The Hall of the Cornmarhet is one of the largest of its kind in Germany. It serves also for con- certs, and public balls. The Place called the Catlle-Marlet is surrounded by the Governor's Palace, barracks, and the Prus- sian military casino. The foun- tain is alleged to have been brouglit from the Palace of Char- lemagne at Ingelheim. From the terrace of the Faubourg of Kiistrich a good view may be ob- tained. The Grosse Bleicheis the princi- pal street. It contains the palace of the commandant, the new foun- tain, and the church of St. Peter. The ancient Palace of the Elec- tor is now the Museum. It con- tains a collection of upwards of 2,000 plaster casts ; a collection of antiquities ; a cabinet of me- dals ; a library ; a picture gal- lery ; a museum of natural his- tory, &c. In front of the Electoral palace is the ancient Palace of the Teu- tonic Order, now the Palace of the Grand Duke, which communi- cates, by a gallery, with the ar- senal. The Church of St. Stephen (built in 1318, restored since 1837) is composed of three naves of the same height ; from the gal- lery of the tower, 310 ft. above the Rhine, there is a mag-nificent panoramic view. The interior contains several pictures and sculptures of merit. The ceme- tery is well laid out, and contains the tombs of many celebrated persons, together vrilh a monu- ment erected to the soldiers of Napoleon's army. Near the town on the south-east is the former summer palace of the Electors called the Favourite, from which was published, in 1792, the fa- mous manifesto of the Duke of Brunswick. The New Pi-omenade called Neue Aiitage, affords a grand view of the Rhine and the o])posite mountains. Across the Rhine, on the point formed by the entrance of the Main, called Mainspitze, is a fort which commands both rivers : near it are the remains of a bas- Route 105.— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGXE. 433 tion called (iustavshurp, built by Gustavus Atlolplius of Sweden. Here the new railway - bridj^e crosses the river. It is in two parts — one crossing the river it- self, tlie other the low land on the banks, ■wliicii is liable, at times, to be flooded. The entire length of this bridge is about 1,400 yards. A bridge of boats extends from Rlayence to Castel, a fortified town. It contains extensive bar- racks and the bastions of Petersau and Ingel.sau, the forts called Grand JJuke of Ilesse and .Mon- tebcUo, and the fort on the Main- spitze. JMayence was a Roman en- campment as early as n. c. 38. The town owes its origin to Drusus, son-iu-law of Augustus, who raised, a.d. 14, a fort oi)po- site the mouth of the Ulain. There are numerous Koman re- mains still existing. In the cita- del is a tower of stone called the Eichelitein, upwards of 40 ft. high, the remains of a monument to Drusus. Amongst other vestiges of the Roman occupation are re- mains of a reservoir, the ruins of an aqueduct, and several tumuli. St. Boniface (who died in 755) was the first Archbisliop of Mayence. In the Aliddle Ages this town controlled the powerful league of the Riienisli towns. After 1462 it ceased to be a free town, and became the seat of the Archbishop-Electors. It was oc- cupied by the French in 1792; retaken by the Prussians the next year ; subsequently ceded to the French by the treaty of Campo Formic, and made over to the Grand Duke of Hesse Danustadt in 1814. Almost at once after leaving Mayence the steamer passes be- tween the two islands Petersau andlngelheiiuerau. Afewminutes later Biebrich (Hotel: de ['Europe) is seen on the riglit. It is a pretty town of 4,(»0() iniiabituiits. its most j)roniitient object is the summer icilace of tiie Duke of Nassau, on the bank of the river. Adjoining it is an extensive and beautiful ])ark. (Passengers for \Viesbadi'n may disembark here. Train to Wiesbaden in 10 minutes.) Tiie steamers now keep near the rigiit bank as far as Rudesheim ; the left bank, which is, for much of the distance, hidden from view- by islands, j)ossessing nothing of interest. The right bank Ls covered witli village* and presents a variety of j>leasant views which extend to the launus mountains. 1 he coun- try over which the view extends is the famous Riikingau, the most fertile and productive region of Germany. Passing the villages of Schierstein, po])ulation 1,200, and iViederwallul',po]iulation 770, we see, on the right, Kltville, a pretty village, population 2,600, tiie chief town of the Rheingau. It was once tlie residence of the Bisiiops of .Mayence. In the uj)per part of tlie town are tlie ruins of a castle built by Baudoin, Archbishop of Treves, in 1330. On the bank of tlie river are many fine country-houses. Be- fore reaching Erbach, the Cha- teau of .lohannisberg and tJie heights of the iSiederwald, oppo- site Bin^en, are seen in the dis- tance. The islands immediately below Erbach are Rheinau, l^ang- wertherau, and Sandau. To these islands Charlemagne used to resort for the purpose of fishing while he resided at Ik<-.kljieim, on the left bank of the Rhine, opposite the island (Rheinau). According to some historians he was born at ingelheim. He exhibited great attaciiment to it, and built a palace there in 768 to 774, among tiie ma- terials of which were a hundred t F. 434 Route 105.— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. columns of marble and porphyry which he took from Roman palaces, and some rich mosaics which were sent to him from Ravenna by Pope Adrian. The place where the palace stood is now occupied by dwellings, and by a Jewish bury- ing ground. The last emperor who inhabited it was Charles IV. Scarcelyanytraces of it nowremain. Upon one of the islands, pro- bably Sandau, Louis le Debon- naire sought refuge from his sons wh o had revolted against him, and here he ended his miserable life (June 840). The next town is Hattenheim, population 1,000. The famous INlarcobrunner wine is grown in the immediate vicinity. We now pass in succession, on the riglit bank, Oestrich, Mittel- heim, and Winkel, which form al- most a continuous village. Behind Winkel, upon a hill which rises S.30 ft. above the Rhine, is tlie Chateau of Johannisberg. The hill is completely covered with vines. Since 1813 this estate has belonged to the JVIetternichs. The chateau is shown to visitors, but it contains nothing of interest. The chapel contains a monument erected by Prince Metternich to the memorj' of his tutor, the his- torian Vogt. The terrace in front of the chateau affords a magnifi- cent view. According to the old chroaicles, Ruthard, Archbishop of Mayence, founded a priory on the spot where the chateau now stands in 1567, and twenty years later a monastery. It was burned in 1552. During the Thirty Years' War the Swedes destroyed what the flames had left standing. In iri6 tlie Abbotof Fuldapurchased the estate, and having built a cha- teau, planted the ground with vines. The vineyards occupy a little less than seventy acres. The best wine is grown close to the chateau, partly over the cellars. Opposite Johannisberg the Rhine attains its greatest width, and presents the appearance of a lake rather than of a river. The next village is Geisenheim. It has a Gothic church of the fifteenth century with modern towers. We next see, on the right, RuDEsnEiM. {Hotels: Darmstudter Hof, Rheinstein), population 2,500, before reaching which the steamer is directed toward Bingen, which is on the left bank, opposite Riides- heim. The latter place is cele- brated for its wines, which are grown upon the hills at the back of the town. They are among the best of the Rhine wines. Riidesheim is remarkable for its ancient castles ; the most im- portant of which is the Nieder- burg, or Broemserburg, close to the Rhine. It existed in the time of Charlemagne, and afterwards belonged to the Archbishops of jMayence. In the thirteenth cen- tury it became the property of the Riidesheim-Broemser family. Af- ter the extinction of that family it passed through various hands to Count Metternich, who sold it to Count Ingelheim, its present owner, who has partially restored it. Close to the Niederburg is the Obere or Boosenburg, consisting of two buildings of different periods ; and near the market-place is a third, called the Voideiberg, only one tower of which remains. [Riidesheim is the most con- venient place for commencing the excursion to the Niederwald, which may be accomplished in three or four hours. The best way is to take a row boat down tlie Rliine to Assmanshausen (20 minutes), where carriages and saddle-horses are always in readi- ness. The route is through the ra- vine at tlie back of the village for a mile, then mounting the sides Route 105.— THE RIIINE^MAYENCE TO COLOGXE. 435 of tlie hill, tlie road goes directly to the Jagd-Scliloss, or hunting- lodn;e of the Count IJasseiiheini, proprietor of the A'iederwald. Here is a restaurant, and a pension in summer. 'I'en minutes' walk beyond bruises the traveller to the Magic Cave, and the artificial ruin called the Kossel, from wliich tJie views of the river and the .surrounding country are exceedingly line. immeduitely below are the ruins of the castle of Ehrenfels. The visitor will be struck with the distinction in the colour of tlie water in the river, the waters of the Rhine, in the centre, being green; those of the iVahe (which enters the Rhine just below J$ingen),of a brownish tint; while those of the Main, on the right, are of a dirty reddish tint. A little beyond the Rossel is the Teini)le, from which the views are also tine. The descent to Riidesheim does not occupy more than half an hour. The road leads through the famous vineyards of Riidesheim.J At BiNCEN (Hotels: Victoria, II bite Horse, Belkvue), population 6,500, the steamers land. '1 his was a Roman town, and the jiuint where the military roads leading to Treves and to Cologne sepa- rated under the protection ot a fortress which occupied the site of the ruins of the L'luiteau Klopp (called Drusus' Castle), de- stroyed by the French in 1689. It is a town of considerable trade, principally in corn, wine and salt. The wines are mostly of the dis- trict of liingen, anil the borders of the Nahe. The wine of Schar- lach is most celebrated among the wines of Bingen. From the ruins of the old Cha- teau Klopp, or Castle of Drusus, which overlooks the town, the l>rospect is magnilicent ovfr the town, which is situated iaauedi- ately under it, and opposite to the mountain of Riidesheim, and the Xiedi-rwald. The eye may also fol- low the whole course of thf Rhine from the fartiiest extremity of the horizon to the Ringerloch ; and in the opposite direction may over- look the valley of the Xahe. 'J'ra- dition a.sserts that the Kmperor Henry I\'. was confined tor a long time in this castle. The Rarish Church, in the Gothic style, dates from the fifteenth century. The stone bridge over the .\ahe is built upon founda- tions laid by the Romans. 'I'here is a fine view from the chajiel of St. Rocli on the hill behind the town. (Sejiarated from Bingen by the Xahe, over which is "a fine new iron bridge, is BiNGKiiBiiiicK, the terminus of the railway to Kreu/.nach, Saarbriick, jMetz and Paris (see Route 57). On cjuitting Bingen we pass, on the left, the mouth of the Xahe, and the rock in the middle of the Rhine, at the place where the river has forced its way between the heights of the Tauniis and the llundsrilck. On this rock is the famous .Mouse Tower (:\Iaiis- thurm), m relation to which there is a curious legend, which is the subject of a poem by Soutiiey. Tradition ascribes the buildin" of this tower to Hatto II. Arcli^ bishop of Mayence. History how- ever is not in accord with the tra- dition. It was built in the 13th century by Archbishop Siegfried, nearly '.'00 years after the death of Hatto for a toll-house, hence the name of Mauth or Mans which signifies toll. Having fallen into ruin it was restored in 18.36, and is now used as a signal station. The current begins to be very strong near this tower, and just below it commences the Bingerloch, or Hole of Bingen. A wall or barrier of rock extends across the river at 436 Route 105.— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. this point, and a channel has been cut throug-li it by blasting. Tlie works were completed in 1832, having been done at the expense of the Prussian Government. Tlie navigation of this part of the river before the execution of this work, was extremely difficult and dangerous. Opposite tlie commencement of tlie liinge/loch and upon the right bank of the river, are the picturesque ruins of the Castle of Ehrenfels, a for- mer residence of the Archbishops of Mayence, by one of whom it was built in 1210. It was assaulted and taken by the Swedes in 1635, and was finally destroyed by tlie French in 1689 when the Palatinate was devas- tated by them. The vineyards about the castle produce the best Rhine wines after those of Johannisberg and Stein- berg. After passing the Bingerloch, the river bends to the right, and we see upon the right bank the old village of Assmanshausen, near which a famous red wine of that name is grown. On the left bank a little further on is the castle of RiiEiNSTEiN, one of the oldest upon the Rhine. It was purchased in 1825 by Prince Fre- derick of Prussia, by whom it was carefully restored. The interior is furnished in the style of the Middle Ages, and contains some good paintings and a collection of armour. It is shown to visitors for a fee. On the left bank soon after passing Rheinstein we see the ruins of F.iLKENBURG destroyed by the Rhine League in 1252. It was afterwards rebuilt, and was subsequentlj' taken by Ru- dolph of Ilapsburg, who hung its defenders. It was again rebuilt by the Counts Palatine, from whose hands it passed to those of the Archbishops of Mayence, and it was finally destroyed by the French in 1689. After passing the village of Trechtingshausen, we see on the left the ruins of the castle of Son- neck, which was built in 1015, de- stroyed by Rudolph of Hapsburg in 1282, reconstructed in the 14th century, and restored in 1834 by the King of Prussia and his brothers, to whom it now be- longs. On the left bank, a little further on, are the ruins of the castle of Heimburg overlooking the village of N ieder-Heimbach . On the right bank a little below, is the village of LoRCH, {Hotels : Schirunn, Rhei- nisc/ierHis, on the right bank, is Cal-h, a village of 1,5.50 inhabitants (Hotel: (jrimewdld). It was at this j)lace that, on the uight of the 1st of January, 181 1, the Prussian army, under the com- mand of liliicher crossed the Rhine. Above the town are the ruins of the castle of Gutenfki ?, one of the most ancient upon the Rhine, fn 1171! tlio Lords of Falkenstein sold it, with the vil- lage of Caub, to tlie Palatinate. It was unsuccessfully besieged in IJOlby \\ illiamof llesse. During the Thirty Years' War, Gustavus Adolphus endeavoured, for six days, without success, to dislodge from it the Spaniards under the command of Spinola. In ISOt it bi'came the property of the Duke of Nassau. Farther on, upon the left bank, are the ruins of the castle of ScnoENBEnc. It was the cradle of the celebrated family of that name, from which descended Marshal Schomberg, who was killed at the battle of the Royne, and whose remains are buried in ^\ t'stminster Abbey. According to the legend, one of the Counts Sclionburg had seven beautiful daughters, who Were as coquettish as they were beautiful. So great was the number of the victims of their heartlessness, that LurLi, the river fairy, resolved to jmnish them. One day, when they were going to the neighbouring castle of Rheinberg, a violent storm arose, their boat was overturned, and tiie maidens were precipitated into the water. They were at once changed into rocks. \Vhen tlie river is low, tiie boatmen point out to travellers the seven cLimsets. The c;istle is now the property of Prince Albert of Prussia. Further on, upon the left bank, is the village of Oberwesel, {Ho- tels : Rheinischer Hof, Trierscher //(•/'), population 'J,600, the Ve- salia ot the Romans. A little to the south of the village is the C'othic church of Xotre Dame, whicli dates from the fifteenth century. It contains mouumenta of the Schomberg family. The beautiful tower at the lower end of the village was formerly part of the fortiticatiens. L'pou the 433 Route 105.— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. wall of the town, on the bank of the river, is the little chapel of St. Werner, built upon the spot where a child named Werner was assassinated by the Jews in 1287. The scenery about Oberwesel is considered the most beautiful upon the Rhine. The river, after having made a bend around Ross-stein, a rock upon the right bank, through which a railway tunnel has been pierced, runs toward the group of rocks visible at low water which are called the Siehen Jungj'rauen (the seven virgins), referred to in the legend above mentioned. The river, whicli now becomes nar- rower, is bordered by high rocks, the most conspicuous among which is the celebrated Luri.ei. The Lurlei has been made the subject of many legends, the most cele- brated among which are those by Brentano and Heinrich Heine. A railway tunnel has been made underneath this rock. Upon the right is Tke Cat, an ancient castle of the Counts of Katzeneln- bogen, built in 1392. After tlie extinction of that family it became the property of various Princes of Hesse, and was finally destroyed by the French in 1806. Further on, upon the right bank, is the village of St. Cioarsiiausen, {Ho- tel: Adler.) Opposite St. Goars- hausen is the village of St. Goar, {Hotels: Lily* A'ro?ie), population 1,300. It owes its origin and name to St. Goar, who, in the reign of Sigebert, King of Aus- trasia in .570, came here to preach to the inhabitants of this vicinity, and who fixed liis abode here. His sanctity soon attracted other holy men, and a religious frater- nity was established here. The navigation of the river being at that time attended with danger, the pious Goar, after passing the day in exhorting his rude hearers, devoted the night to watching the passing barks, and to saving them, when endangered, from wreck. Sigebert, hearing of his piety and benevolence, made him Arch- bishop of Treves. Goar declined the dignity, and asked leave to pursue his useful life. It is said that he proved to his patron the divine origin of his mission " by throwing his threadbare cloak across a sunbeam where it re- mained suspended, as on a peg." Upon the hermit's death, Sigebert caused a chapel to be built over his remains, and here for many centuries the monks of St. Goar received pilgrims, and extended the rites of hospitality to travel- lers. The Protestant church, built in 1486, contains some remarkable monuments of Hessian princes. In the crypt at the east end of this church St. Goar was buried. A little way below the town are the ruins ot the castle of Rhein- FELs, the most extensive upon the Rhine. It was built by a Count Diether of Katzenelnbogen, in 1245, for the purj^ose of compel- ling persons navigating the river to pay tribute to him.- The de- mands of this robber-chieftain be- coming exorbitant, the inliabitants of the neighbouring country re- belled against bis exactions, and attempted for fifteen months to take his castle. Failing in this, the extensive League was fonned which ended in the destruction of many of the castles on the Rhine, and the freeing of the river from unjust tolls. It afterwards fell into the hands of the Landgrave of Hesse, who converted it into a fortress of such strength, that in 1692 a Frencli army of 25,000 men assaulted it in vain. In 1794 it was surrendered almost without a blow to the French army, and three years later it was destroyed by the French. It is now the property of the Royal Family of Refute 105.— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. 459 Prussia. Opposite to St. Goar, upon the rij;ut bank, is the villai^e of Welmich, with a pretty Gothic church. Uj)on a rock at the back of the town, are the ruins of the Castle of TiirnNHFRo, or The iMotsk, built by the Archbishop of Treves, in 1354, to hold in check the neijjh- bourinjj castle of the Cat. Farther convent of Rornhofen, are the two castlfsof LiiiiKNSTKiN and Sterv- Bf.KG, generally called the brothers, the subjects of many lejjends. Farther on, on the left bank, we see the villa'^^e of Boppaiit. {Ho' tels : Spiei^el, Rhe'mischer //o/'),the Baudobri">ok . M.ill'V .K- ^>(>iis l.t>iidon. COLOCN E- COLOCN E CATH E ORAL Rouie lOJ.— THE RIIINE—MAYEXCE TO COLOGXE. in The intorior decorations of tlie chateau are extremely simple ; they comprise some frescoes aiul a few pieces of armour. Anionic the swords are sliown tlio-^e of Napoleon, Murat, Kosciuszko, Tilly, and Uliieher. A row-boat may be had from Stolzenfels to Coblenz(3miles) for^Oso-r.jacar- rias^e with one horse to Stolzenfels and back, costs '27^ n^r. 8oon after leaving Stolzenfels, Ehreiibreit- stein appears in view, opjjosite to and above Coblexz, (^Hotels: Bellevue,* Giant, Anchor), popu- lation '27,767. This city owes its name to its position, heinir situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle. The Romans built a fort here 13 years b.c, which they called Confiuentia. After having been a capital of tlie Prankish kings, it became a part of the kingdom of Lorraine, when tlie three sons of Louis le Debonnaire fiartitioned the kingdom of C'har- eraagne. It afterwards passed into the hands of the Archbishops of Treves. During the Thirty Years' War it was occupied by the Swedes, and afterwards by the French. Taken by Marceau in 1794, it became the chief town of a department of the French Empire. Since 1815 it has belonged to Prussia. The city itself contains few objects of interest. In the old part of the town, in the angle formed bv the junction of the Rhine and the iMosoUo is the old Church of St. Castor, originally built in the 9th century. It was burned in the 11th century, and lias been rebuilt at various dates from lyOl to 1498. It has four towers and three naves. In the choir is the tomb of Archbishop Kuno of Falkenstein. In this church the representatives of the three sons of Louis le Debonnaire, met in 843 to partition the vast em- pire of Charlemagne. In front of the church is tin; fountain of St. Castor, erectetl by a French Prefet in commemoration of the entry of the French into .Moscow, upon which is the following inscription : "The year 181'2, memorable for the campaign against the Russians, under the Prefectorate of Jules Doazan." The Russian General, who occupied ("oblenz on the 1st of January, 1814, caused to be engraved under tliis inscription, " Seen and approved by the Rus- sian Commandant of the city of Coblenz, 1st of January, 1814." Near the Place St. Cantor is the Palaceof the Commandant, which, under the French, was the Pre- fecture. Napoleon and Josephine lodged in this palace from the 17th to the 20th September, 1801. Among tlie edifices in tlie new town is the Royal Palace, built in 1786 by the last elector of Treves : it was occupied by tlie French as a liospital and barracks. In 181.5 it was restored and con- verted into a royal residence. The E resent Queen of Prussia resides ere during a part of each summer. EiiRENunEiTSTEiN (honour's broad stone) is opposite Coblenz. A bridge of boats connects the latter with Thal-Ehrenbreitstein, a village below the heights on which tlie fortress stands. (Tick- ets of admission, good only for the day on which they are issued, may be had at the office of the Lieutenant Commandant at the entrance. A ticket for one. two, or tliree persons, 2i sgr. A gra- tuity is also expected by the at- tendant who conducts ■N'isitors). This fortress is first mentioned in history in 633, when King Dago- bert II. presented it to the Arch- bishops of Treves, who occasion- ally souglit refuge in it. In the 15th century it was converted 442 Route 105.— THE RHINE— MAYEKCE TO COLOGNE. into a modern fortress. In 1631 the Elector Pliilip delivered it to the French, who occupied it five years. It was unsuccessfully be- sieged in 1688, by Marshal Bouf- flers, and in 1795-6, by Marceau. It 1799 it was surrendered to tlie French army after a protracted siege. Ihe French held it until after the peace of Luneville, ivhen it was destroyed. Since 1816 the Prussian Government has ex- pended vast sums of money in rebuilding and extending it, and it is now one of the strongest for- tresses in the world. It mounts 400 cannon, and its storehouses are large enough to contain pro- visions for 8000 men for 10 years. I'he view from the platform of the summit is one of the most beautiful on the Rhine. On other heights around Coblenz are Forts Alexander and Constantine. On the right bank of the Mo- selle, near tlie road to Cologne, and fifteen minutes' ride from Coblenz, is the monument erected to the memory of General Mar- ceau : — " By Coblenz on a rise of gentle ground. There is a small and simple pyramid. Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid — Our enemy's — but let not that forbid Honour to Marceau ! o'er whose early tomb Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough soldier's lid, Lamenting and yet envying such a doom. Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume." — Bykok. Quitting Coblenz, the steamer keeps close to the right bank of the river, and, passing on the left, the village of Neuendorf, and on the right Urbar (nearwliich is Klein- Besslich, an old house belonging to tlie order of the Templars), we see in the middle of the river tlie island of Niederwerth, upon which is a village of the same name, near which are the remains of the church of an old convent of Cis- tercians. Edward III. of Eng- land resided for some time in 1337, in a palace of the Electors which stood near the middle of the island. Here interviews took place between him and Louis, Emperor of Germany, and other princes. On the right bank is Vallen- DAR, a village of 3,200 inhabitants with a handsome church, the eastern tower of which dates from the 15th century, l^pon the left bank further on is the village of St. Sebastian, and opposite, on the right bank, is Besdorf, population 2,250. Its Church is in the Ro- manesque style. Tlie ornamen- tation is curious. Further on, upon the right bank, is Enoers. The chateau near the bank ot the river occupies the site of a for- tress, built by Kuno of Falken- stein, in 1380. Antiquarians believe that the remnants of walls, which are seen in the bed of the river below tlie village, are parts of an old Roman britlge, and that Csesar crossed tlie Rhine at this place in the year 50 b.c. Opposite Engers, upon the left bank, are Kalten-Engers and Urmitz, and, a little farther down, Gute-Mann, an old hemiitage with a modern chapel. At some distance from the river, on the left, we see the village of Weis- SENTHUH5I, witli a little church ornamented with frescoes by Gassen. The tower at the end of the village, to which it owes its name, was built by Kuno of Falkenstein in 1370. In 1797, General Hoche crossed the Rhine at this place. Near the road, south-west of the village, is an obelisk erected to his memory. He died at Metzlar, soon after crossing the Rhine. We now see, Route 105.--T HE RHIXE—MAYENCE TO COLOGXE. 41.3 upon tlie right bank, the village of Nkuwikd, {Hotels: Anchor, Wilder-Maiin), nopulation 7,(K)(). At the lower end of tlie town are the chriteHu and garden of the Princi- of Wird. This is a rapidly growing town, and possesses con- siderable trade ; it has sev<>ral important manufacturing esta- blishments. In a building in the park of the Prince is an interest- ing collection of natural history. A little below Neuwied we jiass, on the right, the village of Irlich. We soon reach, upon the left bank, the old aiul ])icturesque village of ANDEiiN.\cn, (Hotels: Sclioefer, Hackenbrnch ), population 3,800, the Antonacum of tl>e Ro- mans, and the residence of a Roman Prefect. It was taken by tlie Germans in 355, and retaken by Julien in 359. Under the Prankish .Monarchy it was a resi- dence of the kings of Austrasia, and in the .Middle .\ges was a free Imperial City. It was afterwarils held by the Archbishoj)S of Treves and Cologne. Taken by the Swedes in 1632, by the French in 1688, and annexed to France under the Empire, it now belongs to Prussia. It was burned by the French (in 1688), who set fire to it in si.x places, and who destroyed also the castle built in 1109," by the Archbishop of Cologne, the ruins of which are seen near the Cobleiiz gate. The parish church, a beautiful specimen of Roman architecture, was built in I'JOti. It has four towers, and its portals are richly ornamented. The telescope tower near the river, the base of which is round and the uj)per part octa- gonal, dates from l.YA). On the west side may be seen a breach made by French cannon in 1688. A little below Andernach the val- ley of the Rhine grows narrower. V\ e see, on the right, Leutesdorf, and on the left Namedy, the Go- thic church of which dati'S from the l.")th century. The mountain called Fornicher Kopf, above the village of Fornich, is an extinct volcano. Further on, upon the right bank, on the summit of a rock, are the ruins of the ca.stle of 11 \mmer- STEiv. It was built towards the end of the lOth century, and served in 1 105 as the retreat of 1 lenry 1 V. when pursued by his sons. In 1371 Charles I\'. gave it to the Archbishop of Treves. After the peace of \Vesti)halia, 1660, it was destroyed at the instigation of the Arclibishop of Cologne. At its foot are the villages of Ober-IIam- merstein and Xieder- llammer- stein. A little further on, upon the left bank, is the village of Huoni., below which, also upon the left bank, upon a wooded height,isthechateauof Rhkineck, a modern castellated residence, built upon the site of an ancient castle, the only remains of which are the S(|uare donjon tower. The ch.iteau is handsomely furnished, and the interior, which contains some fine pictures, is shown to visitors. It is the property of a Professor of Honn. The view from the gardens is one of the finest on the Rhine. It embraces the course of the Rhine from Andernach to Blount St. ApoUinaris. The sum- mits of the Seven .Mountains are seen in the distance. Near Rheineck, on the left bank, is Nieder-Breisig, close to the en- trance to which is seen part of an old house once belonging to the Templars. On the right bank are seen the pretty villages of Rhein- brohl ( withapri'tfytiothicchurch) and licenningen. Behind the latter is the castle of AnuNFKi.s, an old castle of the princes of Leyen. Since 1849 it hiis been the property of Count Westerholt, by whom it 444 Route 105— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. has been rebuilt. It contains a good collection of armour, and tlie park affords some beautiful views. On the right bank are the villages of Arendorf, Leubsdorf, and Dat- tenberg. Further on is Lixz, (Hotel: Nassauer Hof) 3,000 inha- bitants, an old fortified town with a considerable trade. Its castle, built in 1364, was burned by the cross in commemoration of that victory ; and nearer the Rhine, upon a height called Kaiserberg, across has been erected in memory of the Battle of Waterloo. Below Linz, on the right, are the ruins of the castle of Ockenfels, and a little lower down, near the village of Erpel, rises the Erpelerlei, a basaltic rock nearly 700 feet above ARENKKLS. troops of Charles le Temeraire in 1475. The town was taken by the French in 1688. The church of St. JMartin dates from the 13tli century. It contains some old monuments and curious ancient pictures. A little to the east of the town, upon a height called Hummelsberg, the citizens of Linz erected, on the 17th of October, 1838, being- the twenty-fiftli anni- versary of the Battle of Leipsic, a the river, upon the sides of which vines are planted in baskets filled with earth and fastened in the crevices of the rock. Opposite Erpel, upon the left bank, is Remagen, (Hotels: Fi'irstenbiirg, Kaiiig von Preiissm,) population, 1,800. It was the Ricomagus of the Romans. Its only curiosity is the Romanesque gateway near the church, which is ornamented with sculptures of the 11th century, Route 105— THE RIIIXE—MAYENCE TO COLOGXE. 4J,i and is thousjlit to have belon-jod to a palace of the Frankisli kinvrs. A little bflow Ueiuapjen, ui)on a Jiill, calli'd Apolliiiarisherf;, is a (Jothic church erected in 1852, at the expense of the Count of Fiirs- tenbery;, and under tJie direction of Zwirner, the architect of the ca- thedral of Colonjne. This church, with the exception of the choir, is lighted by round windows, and is ornamented with frescoes of scenes ruins, and the whole series of 30 p(!aks which form the group of the Skvkn JMoi'NTAiNs, and in the river is visible the charming island of XnwKNWF.RTir with its convent. Tliisconvent was founded in the 12th century. In IHO'2 it was suppressed, and in 1822 vrnn converted into a hotel. In 184.5 it became an Ursuline convent. On the left bank is Rolan-dsecr, (Hotel: Rolandseck.) Upon the CHURCH OF ST. APOLLINARIS. in the lives of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. Apollinaris. The house in front of tlie church is a convent of Franciscans. Between Kemagen and Unkel the river bends to the right. Be- low the last named ]>lace, on the left bank, is Oberwinter. From this point onward the landscape is unequalled in variety and grandeur by any upon the banks of the Rhine. ^Ve see Rolandseck and Dracheafels with their picturesque mountain above the village are the ruins of the castle of Roland- SF.CK. From tlie Gothic tower near the ruins a magnificent view may be had. Tradition attributes the" foundation of this castle to the_ celebrated Roland, the nephew of Charlemagne. The castle and the neighbouring convent fur- nished the subject of Schiller's touching ballad, the " Knight of Togscenburg." The tradition is that he chose this spot for the site 446 Route 105— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. of his castle, because it commanded a view of the convent of Nonnen- werth, in which his affianced bride, the beautiful Hildegarde, liad taken the veil after having heard the false report of his death at the battle of Roncevaux. Below Kolandseck is Mehlem, and a little further on, upon the right bank, is KCENIGSWINTER, {HoteL : DE Berlin,* cie I'Europe), population from the summit is the most pic- turesque on the Khine. On the way thither the traveller is shown the quarry (Dombruch) from w^hich the stones were taken to build the cathedral of Cologne, and the Cave of the Dragon which is said to have been killed by the horned Siegfried, the hero of the Niebelungen Lay. Opposite Drachenfels, upon the DRACHENFELS. 1,500. This village is at the foot of the Drachenfels, which may be ascended from this point in about lialf an hour. This is the usual starting point for excursions to the Seven Mountains. The most interesting of this group is the Drachenfels, or the Di-agon's rock, ^which rises abruptly from the river, and is crowned with the ruins of a castle. The view left bank, rises Roderberg, an ex- tinct volcano, the crater of which, now covered with fields, is 1,000 ft. in circumference and 100 ft. in depth. Leaving Koenigswinter we pass, upon the left bank, Riingsdorf ; afterwards, upon the snme bank, Godlsiserg (Hotels: BLinzkr, Bellevue), one half mile from which, upon a hill, is the imposing tower of the castle of lloutei03.—TIIE RIIIXF^MAYEXCE TO COLOGNE. 447 CioDESBF.no. Tlie castle was built ill the thirteenth cfiitury by the Archbisho|is ot'Culo<;ue; it was destroyed in lJo8 by the Bava- rians, wiio left notliing- standing save the tower. The ruin is now the property of tlie Queen of Prussia. We now pass, on the right, Niederdollendort'and Ober- doUendorf, and upon the left bank I'littersdorf, the most convenient Station for persons desiring to visit Constantine it was a, flourishing city, and the mother of tliat em- peror foundi'd a cathedral here. In the middle of the fourth cen- tury it was destroyed by the Allemanni, and afterwards rebuilt by Julien. in the 13th century it was an imjiortant city. In l-ioH it was the seat of the temporal government of the Archbishop Kngelberg of Cologne. 'I'wo German emperors were crowned GOOESBERG. fiodesberg. Further on, upon the right, is Ohekcastle, beyond which there is nothing of interest until we reach Bonn, before reaching which place the beauties of the Rhine may be said to end {Hotels: Gn. Hotki. Royal* (on the Rhine), Golden Star (on the Market I'lace). Popu- lation 2'i,(X)0. It was the C'astra Bounensia of the Romans. l)ru- sus built here one of the first forts erected ou the Rhine, Under in its cathedral — Frederick and Charles 1\'. It was frequently besieged and taken in the wars of the middle ages. Under the French domination, from 1795 to 181 !•, its population diminished by '2,000. Bonn owes much of its present prosperity to its Uni- versitu, foundea in 1786. It occupies the ])al;ice of the Elec- tors of Cologne. Among its pro- fessors are some of the most eminent scholars of Europe. The 448 Route 105.— THE RHINE— MAYENCE TO COLOGNE. number of students is about 900. The library contains 200,000 vo- lumes. The principal church at Bonn is the Cathedral, a beau- tiful edifice in the transition style, built in 1270, and restored in 1845. The most remarkable parts of the building are the windows of the nave, the crj^pt, and the cloisters, which date from 1157. In the Cathedral - place is the bronze monument of Beethoven, who was a native of Bonn. The house in which he was born is still standing in the Rheingasse. The other churches are without in- terest. A favourite promenade of the inhabitants is the Hofgcirten, The vicinity of the city abounds in pleasant excursions and pro- menades. The time occupied by the steamers in going from Bonn to Cologne is about 1\ hours. The banks of tlie river between the two cities are flat and unin- teresting, and the villages passed on the way are without interest. Cologne (Hotels: Dhch, Du Nord, Mainzer Hof, HoUandischer Hof). (For description of the city, Bee Route 36.) Route 106. MAYENCE TO FRANK- FORT-ON-THE-MAIN. 21 miles ; 1st class, 1 fi. 48 kr. ; 2nd, 1 ft. 9kr.; 3rd, 4:2 kr. I N leaving Mayence we cross the Rhine to Cas- TKL, and keep along the right bank of the Slain to HocHHEiM (4 miles). The vil- lage stands on the summit of a hill covered with vineyards down to the Main. The celebrated Hock wine is produced here. The vineyards are the property of the Duke of Nassau. Hatter- SHEiM (6f miles). H'ochst (15^ miles), situated on the Nidda. The palace of the Elector of Mayence is now a private resi- dence. The Church is of great antiquity. (From this place there is a branch to Sodcn (3 miles), at the foot of the Taunus Moun- tains. From thence there are diligences to Koitigstein.) We see from this point the Felberg, and the Castle of Falkenstein be- low it. Frankfort-on-the-Main' (21 miles). (For description, see Route 103/) [From Castel, Wiesbaden (5 miles) may be reached through Moshach (3^ miles). Close to this place is Biebrich, situated on the Rhine, (Hotels: Belle Vue, de ['Europe, Rheinischer Hof), (see Route 105). The small castle of Mossbach, on an artificial piece of water, contains some Roman antiquities. Wiesbaden (5 miles), (Hotels: Victoria,*, des Quatre Saisons, de Nassau, Rose), popula- tion 21,000, is a beautiful town, celebrated for its baths, which attract a great concourse of visi- tors in the season (from June to September). The Kursaal is the chief centre of attraction. It has fine saloons. Balls are given on Saturdays ; concerts on Mondays and Fridays. Music in the grounds near the Ivursaal several times a day. The gambling rooms are on the right of the grand saloon, and play goes on incessantly from 11 A.M. to 11 P.M. There are also spacious reading and refreshment rooms. AViesbaden has fourteen hot springs, of which the prin- cipal is the Kochbrunnen (boiling spring), with a temperature of 136° Fahr. It is at the end of OERMANv. TiontelOS.—MAYENCE TO FRAKKIOnT. 449 thp arcade called the TrinkluiUe. The Komuns ciilk'd these sjjrinj^s Fontes Matlhici. The Romerberg is a Roman fort on tJie north-west of the town. At tlie end of tlie Heidenberg Strasse is a fragment of a Roman wall 6o0 ft. in length, 10 ft. high, and '.) thick, called the Heidenmauer (Heathen's Wall). Charlemagne used to visit the baths, and built a palace here. The Sclosschen, in the \\ ilhelm's Strasse, contains a library of . >i. On a hill called the Neroherg, a few miles from tiie town, is a beautiful Russian chapel, built by the Duke of Xassau. it contains the tomb of his first wife, who was a Russian princess. Wiesbaclen was the capital of the Duchy of Xassau before 1866. It now belongs to Prussia. EOUTE 107. MAYENCE TO DARM- STADT. 20 miles ; Ut class, If. 42 kr. ; 2nd, Ijl.; 3id, 39 kr. (Travellers desiring to proceed from Mayence to Heidelberg and the south, or to AViirzburg, will save nearly 20 miles of travel, by going direct from jMayence to Darmstadt, instead of taking the route by Frankfort.) Mavence has been described in Route 105. R0S8IN(J the Rhine over tlie iron bridge, and j>a8sing the fortifi- cations on the .Main- spitze, or tongue of land between the Rhine and Main, we pass liischofsheim (four mdcs), near which point the line to Frankfort goes off to the left. Passing Aaulieim and Ciros-Cierau, places without interest, we reach, in one hour from iMayence, Darmstadt, which is described in Route 114. Route 108. MAYENCE TO MANNHEIM BY WORMS. 42 miles; 1st class, 3 Jl.; Qndjlji. 46 kr.; 3rd,-iji. 12 kr. (This route to Mannheim is much less interesting than that by Darmstadt and the Bergstrasse, but, as it includes the interesting cities of Worms and Spires, should not be omitted.) ASSING through an ^ uninteresting region along the east bank of the Rhine, abounding in vineyards, we pass Laubenheiin, Bodenheim, and Nierstein, all of which give their names to well- known wines of the second class, and reach Ojtenheim (12 miles), population, 2,500. On a hill north-west of the town, is seen the Church of St. Catherine, a handsome Gothic edifice of the twelfth century. Above it, are the ruins of tiie Castle of Land- skrone, which dates from the twelfth century. Quitting the borders of the river, we pjiss Gemsheim, Ciuntersblum, and several other uiiimportantstations, and arrive at W orms (28 miles), F r 450 Route 108.— 3IAYENCE TO MANNHEIM. gekma:«y. (Hotels: Alter Kaiaer, Eheinischer Hof), population, 11,000. Just before reaching Worms, we see the Gothic Church of Our Lady, built in tlie fifteenth cen- tury, and recently restored. It is situated in the vineyard which produces the well-knownLiei/rau- milch wine. Worms is a walled town, with massive towers, and seven gates. The DoM, or Cathedral, an edifice of the twelfth century, partly in the Gothic, and partly in the By- zantine style, has two towers at each end, and a fine portal with elaborate sculptures. The interior has been restored. North of the Dom are the re- mains of the Bischofshof, consist- ing of a few stone walls. In it was held in 1521, the celebrated Diet of Worms, at wliich Luther appeared before Charles V. A fine bronze statue of the great Reformer was erected here in 1868. St. Paul's Church is interesting for the beauty of its west end and choir, dating from the eleventh century. Worms is one of the oldest cities in Germany, and is the scene of the Niebelungen Lied. It was occupied by the Romans, and w as the frequent residence of Charle- magne. Its population once reached 60,000. It was almost wholly destroyed by the French in the Thirty Years' War, and has never recovered its former prosperity. Part of the space formerly occupied by the city, is now covered with gardens. A few miles above Worms, we leave the territory of Darmstadt, and enter tbe Grand Duchy of Baden. Frankenthal (35 n}iles), is » prosperous town, with a popula- tion of 5,600. A canal connects it with the Rhine, three miles dis- tant. LuDwiGsiiAFEN (42 miles), a flourishing town, occupying the site of one of the fortifications of Mannheim, is connected with the latter by a bridge of boats. Mannheim, (Hotels: de I'Eu- rope, Pfalzer Hof), population, 35,000, is situated on the right bank of the Rhine, between it and the Neckar. It is regularly built, with twelve streets running pa- rallel to each other from north to south, and ten crossing them at right angles. There are fourteen public squares, nearly all of which are adorned with fountains. Those most worthy of notice, are the Planken, and the Schiller Platz ; the latter containing statues of Schiller, Dalberg, and Iffland. The Palace is a huge quadran- gular stone building, containing a gallery of paintings of no great merit. The gardens behind it terminate in a terrace, which overlook the Rhine. Its fortifications were de- stroyed after the peace of Lune- ville, and their place is now occupied by gardens. Spires {Hotel: Wittelsbacher- hof), population, 13,700, is about ten miles, by railway, from Lud- wigshafen. It is situated at the confluence of the Spire with the Rhine. It is surrounded with walls. It was a Roman station, a residence of the German Empe- rors, and the seat of the Germanic Diet. It once contained a popu- lation of 27,000. Its prosperity began to decline in the 17th cen- tury. The greatest blow upon it was inflicted by Louis XIV., who, having taken possession of the city in 1689, ordered its inhabi- tants, under pain of death, to emigrate witliin six days. It was afterwards burned. It came into the possession of Bavaria in 1816, since which time much has been done for its improvement. GERMANY. Route 108.—MAYENCE TO MANNHEIM. 451 The Cathedral, which was spared in tin; destruction of tho city, thou>^h the French attemj)tL'd to destroy it witli tjunpowder, is perhaps the hirgest representative of the old Romanesrpie style in Ku- rope. It was founded in 1()'J~, on the site of a Roman tenij>le of Venus. It is flanked by two pointed towers. The interior is chaste, and ahnost devoid of orna- ment. It contains some remark- able monuments. Eiglit (ierman Emperors are buried within its walls. It has been restored within the last few years, and some fine painting's executed on the walls of the interior. There are no other public buildings worthy of parti- cular notice. In 159.9 the famous Diet was held at Spires, at which the Reformers presented the pro- test which originally conferred upon them the name of Pnoxiis- TANTS. Route 109. FRANKFORT TO EMS, BY WIESBADEN, 89 miLes ; 1st class, 6fi. 57 h: ; ^nd, 'ifl. 6 kr. ; 3d, "ZJi. 39 kr. (For Route from Frankfort to Wiesbaden, see Route 106.) sEAVING Wiesbaden, we reach the Rhine at BiF.nRicH (3 miles). We pass Ei.TviLLE (9 miles), RuDESHEiM (19 miles), St. Goarhausen (37 miles) and OiiERi.AHNSTEiN (54 milcs), all of which have been described in Route 105. At this point our route leaves the main line to C'oblenz. It is about one hour's journey from Oberlahnstein. through a beautiful country to Ems {Hotels: d' AfiGLr.rr.RnF.,* Qiiatre Saisnn.% de llussie, I ier I'liurme), |)0|)ulation, 4,000. This agreeable watering- j)lace is pleasantly situated on both hanks of the Lahn. The KuiMul is a handsome building close to the river. It contain.s a cafe, gambling rooms, and a ball- room, with a theatre for French i)lays and occasional concerts, I" wo of the chief springs are under the old Kiirhuus — the heiselbnninen and the hnutchen ; the temperature of the former is 116 degrees Falir. This building is connected with the Kursaal by a fine hall. There are baths in the Kurhaus, also in the Xassaiier Ilof, and in tho Xene Baithaus, on the left bank. A covered suspen- sion-bridge connects the gardens with those on the right bank. There are also baths in the Vier Thiirme. The interviews between the King of Prussia and the French envoy, which preceded the decla- ration of war between France and Prussia in July 1870, took place at Ems. [About six miles from the Eltville station is Schi.anoenbap {Hotels: Xassuiier Hof, l''ictoria), to which diligences go several times daily in one hour. It is a little village surrounded by wooded hills, much resorted to for its batlis. It has two bath- houses, the Old and New Hadhaus, and has generally about 850 visi- tors in the season. The waters are efficacious in diseases of the skin. Jt has a band of music, which plays frei|uently in the grounds, reading-room, ice, but uo gaming tables. There are many pleasant excursions in the neighbourhood. About four miles further on towards Wiesbaden, is Langen- ScHWALBAcn ( Hotels: Dec de Nas- sau,' de la Frame itade), a strag- 452 Route 109.— FRANKFORT TO EMS. GERMANY. gling village with a permanent population of 1,800. Its mineral springs are, the Weinbrunnen, so called from its fancied resem- blance to wine, and the Stahl- brunnen, both of which contain iron. The season begins in June, and usually terminates in August. It has about 3,000 visitors during the season.] Route 110. FRANKFORT-ON-THE- MAIN TO CASSEL. 124f miles; 1st class (express'), 9Ji. 27 kr. ; 2nd, 6Ji.l8 kr. ; 3id, Sji. 57 kr. EAVING Frankfort we pass some unimportant places, and stop at Fhiedberg (21 miles), ( Hotels : Trapp,Simon ), population, 5,600. This curious old town is si- tuated on a hill, and surrounded by walls. Witliin the precincts of the picturesque Castle is an old Gothic Church, and there are the ruins of another in the town. We cross a viaduct 70 ft. high, and pro- ceed to Nauheim (23 miles), de I'Europe, Bellevue, Here is a famous spring of 95 degrees Fahr. The Kurhaus is a fine building, situated in a park adorned with a lake. There are gaming tables here. Passing Butzhach (29^ miles), we see the ruins of the Castles of Fetzberg and Gleiberg, before reaching GiESSEN (4I5 miles), {Hotels: Rappe, Post, Einhorn), popula- tion, 10,241. It is beautifully situated on the Lahn. The Uni- versity, founded in 1607, possesses a fine library. The celebrated (Hotels : Kursaal). hot salt Liebig was a professor here, 1824-52. (Branch lines to Ems, Coblenz, and to Cologne.) Pro- ceeding down the valley of the Lahn, we cross that river before reaching Marburg (60 miles), (Hotels: Pfeiffer, Ritter), popula- tion, 8,506. It is a picturesque old town, situated on the side of a hill by the Lahn. in a beautiful position, was once a stronghold of the Teutonic order. Among its interesting objects are the Castle of the Landgraves of Hesse, now a prison ; the University, which has usually 250 students, and has had among its students Luther, Zwingli, and Melancthon ; its library contains over 110,000 volumes. The church of St. Elizabeth is a Gothic edifice of the thirteenth century, the style of which is regarded as exceed- ingly pure. It is in a state of ex- cellent preservation. One of the chapels is dedicated to St. Eliza- beth of Hungary. Her shrine is now in the sacristy. It was for- merly richly ornamented with precious stones. She was the daughter of Andreas II. of Hun- gary, and wife of Ludwig, Land- grave of Hesse. From her, the ancestress of the Cassel and Darm- stadt branches of the house of Hesse is descended, the present (1871) Princess of Wales. The conferences between the Swiss and Wittenberg Reformers took place in one of the halls of the old Castle of Marburg. The University was founded in 1527 by Philip the Magnanimous. We cross the Lahn, and pass, amongst other places, Wabern (104 miles), where the Elector had his country seat. We then cross the Fulda by a viaduct of thirteen .arches, and reach Gun- tershausen (116 miles), (Hotel: Bellevue). A branch turns off here to Eisenach (see Route 103). GERMANY. Rvute 110.— FRANKFORT TO CASSEL. 453 Passing ]\'ilhelmsh'6he, we reach Cassel (1'2+} miles), (IloleU: Kotii^ von Freuisen, Scliirmerj population, 41,600, tbrmerly the capital of Hesse Cassel, now belonging to Prussia. In the principal square, called Fried- rich's Platz, is a statue of the Elector Frederick 11. Here are the Elector's Palace and the Mu- seum. The /li/^(i)(i;;j, a beautiful park, adjoins this square. The Museum contains a l.ibraru of 90,000 volumes ; a Cabinet of Curiosities, comprising numerous specimens of clucks and watches of various ages, and some fine wood and ivory carvings, and gems; a Collection of Antiquities, and ancient and modern sculp- tures; and a Natural History Col- lection. The Picture Galleru, in the Belvedere, contains some good pictures by Rembrandt, Paul Pot- ter, Van i)yck, Teniers, Holbein, &c. The Church of St. Martin, in the Friedricli's Pbtz, a handsome Gothic building, contains several monuments of the Klectors. In the Augarten is an elaborate marble batli, containing statues and bas reliefs. Near it is tbe orangery. About 3 miles from Cassel, is WiLHELMSHoiiE, wliicli is Called the Versailles of Germany. The gardens contain the Summer Palace of the Elector, near which is the Theatre, and a Fountain, sdid to be the largest known, except that at Chatsworth. Its jet is 190 ft. high. The New iVaterJ'atl, near the inn, is 130 ft. high. The Cascade of the Karlshurg, consists of a number of stone steps, extending yOO ft. up a hill to the Temple of the \Vinds. which is crowned b^' a colossal statue of Hercules. About half-way up is a representation of the Giant Enceladus, overwhelmed by the crags of Mount .^tna. The statue of Hercules is of copper, 31 ft. high, standing on a pyramid, which is supported by the octa- gonal structure abovi'-nn-ntioned, rising to a height of 1,31'2 ft. above the Fulda. Near the cascade is a miniature castle, called the Lowen- burg, surrounded with agreeable gardens and pleasure grounds. The armoury contains some in- teresting relics. In the chapel is a fine sarcophagus of C'arrara mar- ble over the grave of Willielra I. VVilhelmshohe was built with mo- neys received by the Elector for his subjects, the soldiers he sold to the liritisli Government for the war in America (1776). It was assigned to Napoleon III., after the battle of Sedan, as his resi- dence, and he resided here until April, lb71. Route 111. FRANKFORT TO NUREM- BURG, BY WURZBURG. 147 miles; 1st class, 9 ft. 42 /cr. ; 2nd, 6ji. 3(J kr. ; 3rd if. 24 kr. (For tlie journey as far aa Hanau (11 miles), see Route 103.) JETTINGEN'CIS miles) is celebrated for the battle fought near it in 1743, between the Eng- lish, and Austrians, and the French. George II. commanded the allied forces in person. Aschaf- FESBURG (23^ miles), {Hotel: Friedhot'), population, 10.300, is situated on the right bank of the IVIain. It was a Roman station. The Schloss is a square building 454 Route Hi.— FRANKFORT TO NUREMBURG. GERMANY. with towers, erected in 1614. It contains a Picture Gallery and Library. In the park, is the Roman villa, or Pompeianum, in imitation of the house of Castor and Pollux at Pompeii. The Cathedral was originally founded in 980, but the existing building was constructed partly in the thirteenth century, though traces of the former structure remain. It contains two bas-reliefs in bronze, representing the Virgin, and Albert II. of Brandenburg, executed by Vischer in 15'i6, and another of Otto, Duke of Bavaria, dating from 1575. Leaving Aschaffenburg, we pass through the Forest of Spessart, a remnantof the ancient Hercynian Forest, and presently cross the Laufach, and go through a tunnel of about two miles long to Heigen- br'ucken. Beyond Partenstein, we enter the valley of tlie Lohr, and reach the station of that name on the riglit bank of the Main. Gemilnclen (57^ miles), is situated at the confluence of the Main and the Saale. Above it, see the ruined Castle of Schorneberg, destroyed in 1243. The Convent of Zell, at Veits- hochlieim (77 miles) is now used by a firm of manufacturers. We presently reach Wurzburg (801 miles). (Hotels: Kronprinz von Baieru* Russhcher Jlof), popu lation 42,185. This ancient town is pleasantly situated on the Main. It is connected with the suburb of Mainvierlel by an ancient stone bridge, adorned with statues of saints, &c. There are some very quaint, picturesque old houses to be seen in various parts of the town. At the end of the Dom- strasse is the Cathedral, originally founded in the 8th century. The earlier portions of the present building are of the 11th and 12th centuries. In the interior are monuments of the Prince-bishops and others. The ZVewe M'wmter, near the Cathedral, is built on the spot where the Irish Saint Kilian suflfered martyrdom. In a niche on the outside of this church is a monument to Vogelweide, the Minnesinger, who died in 1230, leaving a sum of money to be laid out in food for the birds, to be given to them at his tomb every day. The monument bears an in- scription to that effect. Tlie chapter subsequently appropriated the be- quest to themselves. " Vogelweide the Minnesinger, When he left this world of ours. Laid his body in the cloister, Under Wurzburg's minster towers. And he gave the monks his treasures. Gave them all with this behest : They should feed the birds at noontide Daily at his place of rest ; Saying, ' From these wandering min- strels I have learned the art of song ; Let me now repay the lessons They have taught so well and long.' Thus the bard of love departed ; And, fulfilling his desire. On his tomb the birds were-feasted By the children of the choir. Till at length the portly abbot Murmured ' Why this waste of food! Be it changed to loaves henceforward, For our fasting brotherhood.' " Longfellow. Near the Cathedral is the Royal Palace, formerly the residence of the Prince-Bishops. It contains 285 apartments, some of which are magnificent. The Chapel is richly decorated in the style of the age of Louis XIV. On the north side of the town is the Julius-spital, an asylum for aged and infirm persons. In the mar- ket-place is the Marienkapelle, a fine Gothic structure of the 14th and 15th centuries. The Univer- sity, founded iu 1582, is celebrated GERMANY. Route ni.—FRAXK FORT TO NURKMBURG. 45') ufl a school of medicine. The Citadel stands on a hill covered witli vineyards. It coinmaniis a raa>;niticeut view, but permission must be obtained to visit it. The famous Stein wine is •;;rown at ^\ lirzburg. [Another but longer route between W iirzburg and I^uremburg is tiiat by way of 1JA.M1^^RG. About t!0 miles from Wiirzburg, on this route, is ScHWEiNFURT, the Heafest station to KissiNGEN Uatiisi The dis- tance is It miles. A railway will be completed June 15th, 1871. (^Hotels at Kissiiigeri ; de liussie, de i'axe. ) Of its three s]ir ngs, tlie Kakocay and I'andur i'urnish saline, and the .M ax brunnen acidu- lous and alkaline waters. The Soolen-Sprudal is remarkable for the ebb and flow of its waters. The waters of Kissingen are effica- cious in cases of chronic disease, gout, iSic. X'isitora, about 7,000 aoiiually. B A M D E R G ( Hotel : Deutsches Haiti), population 2.5,500, beauti- fully situated on the Kegnitz. Its roost noteworthy object is the Cathedral, a fine Byzantine edi- fice founded in 1001. The old Palace of the Prince Bisiiops of Bamberg is a fine edifice. Distance to Wiirzburg 61 miles, to Aurem- berg -k) miles.] We now piiss seve- ral jilaces of no interest, and reach Fi'KTH (140^ miles), a busy ma- nufacturing town of about 21,000 iahabitaiits. It was the scene of a great battle between W'allensteia and Gustavus Adolphus, in 1632. The next station is NuREMBUHC (115 miles). (Ho- tels^ BaierUcher V/i;/,* lioihes Uoss, Strausi), population about 77", 895. This was formerly one of the most important towns in Kurope. It is still distinguished in many branches of industry, especially in the manufacture of lead pencils, wooden toys, mirrors, bronzes, &c. It is a curious old town, containing numbers of media-val houses, together with several magniticent ones of later date. The Uiver Pegnitz runs through the town, dividing it in two equal parts, which are named after the large church in each, Hi. Sehald's side, on the north, and Stt Imw- reiice's side on tlie south. The. Church of St. iMwreuce is a fine Gothic building of the 13th cen- tury ; the towers are surmounted by handsome spires. Ihe jwrtal at tlie west end is richly dtx-o- rated, and contains statues of the X'irgin and several saints, and representations of various Scrip- tural incidents. The stained glass windows are magnificent, ^lany of the sculptures are by Albert Diirer. A prominent object in this Church is the \nx of white stone, 61 ft. liigh, beautifuUv carved by Adam Krafi't. It rises nearly to the roof of the church, and the top, which bends over, has been compared by Longfellow to the crest of a fountain. In the market-place is the Catholic Church, or Fraiieukirchei, Its portal, like tiiat of St. Law- rence, is adorned with figures of the X'irgin, Saints, Prophets, &c. The interior contains some good paintings and sculptures. The Schvne Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), also in the market- place, consists of a fine Gothic obelisk, 56 tt. high, adorned with many statues. The Gvose Market, near the Frauenkirche, contains abronzefountain, called tlie Gdnse- maiinclieit, which represents & peiisaut carrying two geese, out of whose bills fiow streams of water, in a street leading out of the principal market-plac«, is the house once inhabited by Hans Saciis, the 8hoeniaker-i>oet of the 16th century. Ajiother Aurem- 456 Route ill.— FRANKFORT TO NUREMBURG. Germany. burg poet of the same period was Melchior Pfinzins^, secretary to the Emperor Maximilian, who composed a nuptial ode called " Tlieuerdank," on the occasion of the Emperor's marriage with Mary of Burgundy. The City Librarii, in the Domi- nican convent, contains several valuable works, and illuminated manuscripts, besides portraits, relics of Luther, and sundry curiosities. The Rathhaus con- tains a good collection of pictures. The great hall is adorned with those of Albert Diirer. Under this building are secret passages, leading in various directions to the fosse outside the walls of the town. iS't. Sebald's Church was originally built in the 10th century. The greater part of the existing struc- ture is of the 14th century. The portals are finely carved. The interior contains some handsome stained windows, and good sculp- tures, and a painting by Albert Diirer. The Shiine of St. Sebald, in the choir, is a chef d'otuvre of Peter Vischer. It is a beautiful Gothic canopy of bronze, in open work, adorned with statues of the Twelve Apostles, above which are twelve of the Fathers of the Church, and cupids, sea-monsters, &c., amid foliage and flowers. Melchior Pfinzing lived in the Parsonage-house of St. Sebald, on the north-west corner of the square in which the church is situated. It has a handsome oriel window. The Gothic Church of St. Mau- rice, near St. Sebald*s, is used as a picture-gallery ; it contains some good paintings. In the neighbourhood is a bronze statue of Albert Diirer, by Rauch. The Castle, or Burg, is at the north side of the town. It is a fine, massive building, of the eleventh century. It stands on a rock, and commands an exten- sive view. Part of it is fitted up for the Royal family, and contains some good paintings. In the castle-yard is a venerable lime- tree, said to be 700 years old. In a tower of the city wall called Froschthurm is the celebrated iron virgin (Eiserne Jungfrau). It is the figure of a female seven feet high, which opens by secret springs. The victim being thrust into its embrace was pierced by poignards. Beneath are dark vaults into which the dead bodies were allowed to fall when released from the embrace of this fearful instrument. The Churchyard of St. John, out- side the Thiergarten-gate, con- tains the graves of Albert Diirer (No. 649), Hans Sachs (No. 503), and an immense number of the former aristocracy of Nuremburg, whose coats of arms are em- blazoned on their tombs. The Aegidienkirche, in the Italian style, contains an altar-piece by Van Dyck, representing a Dead Christ, with St. John and the two martyrs. In one of the side- chapels there is a sculptured relief of the Coronation of the Virgin, by Adam Krafft. To the south of the chureh is the Gymnasium, founded by Melancthon, whose statue is in front of it. The Germanische Museum, of the fourteenth century, contains a good collection of antiquities (chiefly German), coins, medals, books, sculptures, paintings, &c. The great hall contains a fine pic- ture by Kaulbach : " The Opening of Charlemagne's grave by Otho III." Albert Diirer's House is No. 376 in the street of his name, near the castle and the Thiergarten- gate. CKRMANY. Route ill.— FRANKFORT TO NUREMBURG. 457 Longfellow tlius writes of Nu- remburs' : — "In the vnllcy of the Pepnitz, where across broad ineudDW-lunds Rise the blue FrBiu-ouiiin mountains, Nuremberu, the ancient, stands. Quaint old town of toil and trtitflc, quaint old town of art and song, Memories haunt thypointedgabhs.like the rooks that round them thionft : Memories of the Middle Apes, when the emperors, rough and bold. Hud their dwelling in thy castle, time- defying, centuries old ; And thy brave and thrifty burghers boasted, in their uncouth rhyme. That their great imperial city stretched its hand through every clime. In the courtyard of the castle, bound with many an iron band. Stands the mighty linden planted by Queen Cunieunde's hand ; On the square the oriel window, where in old heroic days Sat the poet Melchior singing Kaiser Maximilian's praise. Everywhere I see around me rise the wondrous world of Art : Fountains wrought with richest sculp- ture standing in the common mart ; And above cathedral doorways saints and bishops carved in stone. By a former age commissioned as apostles to our own. la the church of sainted Sebald sleeps enshrined his holy dust, And in bronee the Twelve Apostles guard from age to age their trust ; In the church of sainted Lawrence stands a pix of sculpture rare. Like the foamysheaf of fountains, rising through the painted air. Here, when Art was still religion, with a simple, reverent heart, Lived and laboured Albrecht Durer, the Evangelist of Art ; Here in silence and in sorrow, foiling still with busy hand. Like an emigrant he wander'd seeking for the Better Land. Emigrant is the inscription on the tombstone where he lies; Dead he is not,— but departed, — for the artist never dies. Fairer seems the ancient city, and the sunshine seems more fair. That he once has trod its pavement, that he once has breathed its air! Through these streets so bro.id and stately, these obscure and dismU lanes, Walked of yore the Mastersingers, chanting rude poetic strains. From remcjte and sunless suburbs, came they to the friendly guild. Building nests in Fame's great temple, as in spouts the swallows build. As the weaver plied the shuttle, ■mora he too the mystic rhyme. And the smith his iron measures ham- mered to the anvil's chime ; Thanking God, whdse boundless wisdom makes the tlowers of poesy bloom In the forge's dust and cmders, in the tissues of the loom. Here Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet, laureate of the gentle craft. Wisest of the Twelve Wise Masters, in huge folios sang ond laugh'd. But his house is now an ale house, with a nicely sanded floor. And a garland in the window, and his face above the door. Painted by some humble artist, as in .■Vdam Puschman's song. As the old man grey and dove-like, with his great beard white and long. And at night the swart mechanic comes to drown his cark and core, Quafting ale from pewter tajikards, in the master's antique chair. Vanish'd is the ancient splendour, and before my dreamy eye Wave these mingling shapes and figures, like a faded tapestry. Not thy Councils, not thy Kaisers, win for thee the world's regard. But thy painter. Albrecht Durer, and Hans Sachs, thy cobbler-bard. Thus, O Nuremberg, a wanderer from a region far away, As he paced thy streets and court-yards, sang in thought his careless lay : Gathering from the pavement's crevice, as a floweret of the soil. The nobility of labour,— the long pedi- gree of toil." (Ratisbqn is 85 miles from Nurembur!^. There are three trains daily, in four Iiours. f\ires, tst class, 6 ft. 57 kr. ; "ind, 4//. 39 kr. ; 3rd, Sjl. 6 kr. There is notliinsf of interest on the route. Ratisbaa is described in Route 115.) 458 Route m.— FRANKFORT TO HOMBURG. GERMANY. Route 112. FRANKFORT-ON-THE- MAIN TO HOMBURG. 14- miles; 1st class, Ijl.; 2iid,36kr.; 3rd, 21 kr. HERE is nothing on the route to attract especial attention. Ho.MBURG (Hotels: QUATRE SaISONS, * VICTORIA,* DE RussiE,* heileime, de I'Eu- rope) is a town of about 4,000 inhabitants, beautifully situated on a gently rising ground at the foot of the Taunus mountains. Since 1866 it has belonged to Prussia. It is well and regularly built and contains some fine public buildings, the principal of which is the &chloss, or palace, in wliich the Landgrave formerly resided, surrounded by gardens well laid out. It is chiefly celebrated for its brtinnen, or mineral springs, of which there are five. The Kitr- haus, the finest in Europe, com- prises reading and refreshment- rooms, a concert or ball-room, and play-rooms. The water of some of the springs contains more car- bonic acid gas than any other saline springs known, and is said to be very efficacious in cases of disordered liver and stomach. It is, next to Baden-Baden and Wies- baden, the most frequented of the German Spas. The gambling- rooms remain open throughout the whole year. The climate of Hombui-g is very healthy, and it is one of the most agreeable sum- mer resorts in Eurojje. About five miles distant to the northward are the remains of an ancient R oman wall, with a double fosse, called the Sualhurg. It was formerly the outwork of a Roman fort. Route 113. FRANKFORT TO MUNICH, BY STUTTGARD. 280 miles; 1st class (express), 20 Ji. 24 kr. ; 2nd, 13Ji. 36 At. (For that part of the journey as far as Bruchsal (73 miles), see Route 114.) REAVING Bruchsal we presently reach Bret- ten (83 miles). It is a village of 2,800 inha- bitants, and is only distinguished as the birthplace of Melancthon. Maulbronn (90 miles) has a handsome church, in the Roman- esque style. We pass through a tunnel leading from the valley of the Rhine into that of the Neckar, and reach MiinLACKER (94 miles). We cross the valley of the Enz over a viaduct 1000 ft. long. After passing Bletigheim, we pass, on the right, the Castle of Hohenasperg, now a prison. LuDwiGSBURG (113 miles), (Ho- tel: Bar), population about 12,000, including the garrison, is the great military depot of Wurtemberg, and contains arsenal, gun-fouudry, barracks, &c., situated a short distance from the western bank of the Neckar : the kings of Wiirtemberg formerly made it their residence. The Palace con- tains a picture-gallery. The Gar- dens are extensive, but not well kept up. In the neighbourhood are two royal residences : Monrepos and La Favorite. Stuttgardt (122 miles. Ho- tels : Mahquardt's* Royal, Adler). Population 75,600. This town is beautifully situated in the Nesenbach valley, the hills GERMANY. Route 113.— FRANKFORT TO MUNICH. 4.')f» forming a semicircle of eminences clothed with vineyards, orchards and gardens. Except tiie very oldest part of the city, the streets are broatl and tlie biiildinj!;s hand - some. The Schloss or palace is a fine modern building, and con- tains numerous frescoes and other works of art. The Royal Park and gardens attached to tlie palace have an area of otK) ;icres, are adorned by fine <;rouj)S of frees, and intersected by shady avenues. In the neighbourhood of the palace are the honi^sban, with Ionic colonnade, containing the Ex- change, and an arcade witli shops on the ground-floor, and concert - rooms on the second floor, a spacious opera-house, the royal theatre, museum, a poly- technic school, an academy of fine arts, and a fine statue of Schiller, in iron, modelled by Thorwaldsen. It has a catliedrul, built in the fifteenth century, con- taining several monuments, four handsome painted windows, and an excellent organ. The King's stables contain one of the best studs of horses in Europe. The private royal library, in the palace, contains 5i,000 printed volumes, the public royal library '200,0()L) volumes, l'JO,000 smaller works, and a peculiar collection of 8,700 bibles in 80 languages. In the imnitjdiate vicinity are alleys, parks and gardens, and at a short distance from the city are various places of holiday resort, including Rosenstein, the beau- tiful summer residence of the King, Caniistatt, celebrated for its mineral springs, the Moorish baths, &;c. Stuttgardt holds a high position in the book-trade, and has numerous bookselling establishments. Hegel was horn here. I'he place is of ancient date, and owes its name to a castle which existed before 1080. In 1119 it obtained corporate rights from Rudolf, .Margrave of Haaen, and in l.S'.'O became the residence of the counts of Wiirteinburg. It was much extended and improved about 1 1- U), and lias since, with only a short interval, been the capital. Leaving Stuttgardt, we proceed for some distance parallel to the lleilbronn line. Skirting the pa- lace-gardens, we cross the Neckar, and reach C.vnnstatt (V2S^ miles. Ilnlels : Hermann, ]Vilhetmsbad), l)oj>ulation 8, '200. It is plea- santly situated on the banks of the Xeckar, and is celebrated for its mineral springs and baths. Several Roman remains have been found here, and removed to the museum at Stuttgardt. The Wil- hetina Palace is a modern building in the .Moorish style ; the grounds are extensive, and t;ustefully laid out. Leaving Cannstatt we pro- ceed along the right bank of the Aeckar, through a district rich in vineyards, orchards and corn- fields. On the left we see the Rothenberg, surmounted by a Greek chapel, built by the late king as a mortuary chapel for his second wife. It contains statues by Dannecker and Thorwaldsen, and was erected on the site of the ancient castle of the princes of VViir- temberg. We next reach Unter- t'urkheiin, in the neighbourhood of which a good wine is grown. Ess- LiNGKN (131 miles, flotel: Krone) is a manufacturing town of about 16,600 inhabitants. It is sur- rounded by walls. Its chief manufactures are woollen and cotton goods, hardware, and a wine resembling champagne. The I.iehl'raiienldrche is a beauti- ful (iothic building, the portals ornamented with reliefs ; the tower, together with its octa- gonal spire of the fifteenth cen- tury, measures '230 ft. in height. The Stadtkirche is a Romanesque 460 Route 113.— FRANKFORT TO MUNICH. Germany. structure, dating from the thir- teenth and fifteenth centuries. It has a rood-screen, painted win- dows, and a pix of the fifteenth century. The gate named Wolf- sthor bears the lion crest of the Imperial Family of Hohenstaufen. The view from the Castle of Ber- fried, above the town, is very food. Plochingen (138 miles, lotels : Walflhoni, Krone) is a village of 2,000 inhabitants, near the confluence of the Fils and Neckar, the latter being crossed by an old wooden brulge. A branch line goes to Tubingen and Kirchheim. GoppiNGEN (151 miles) is a the valley of the Danube, and reach Ulm (181 miles), {Hotels: Kronprinz, Russischer HoJ"), popu- lation, 24,700. It is a strong fortress, situated on the left bank of the Danube, and connected by two bridges with the New Town, on the Bavarian side of the river. Its linen manufactures have greatly fallen off, and its principal trade is in corn. Great quantities of snails are exported to Austria and other Roman-Catholic countries, where they are eaten on Fast-days and during Lent. The fine Gothic Cathedral was built in the fourteenth and fifteenth ULM, town of 6,800 inhabitants, on the Fils. It is a well-built modern town, re-erected after a fire in 1782. There was formerly here a ducal castle, erected with the stones of the ancient Castle of Hohenstaufenburg, which for- merly stood on the height of that name near by. We proceed along the valley of the Fils, pass- ing some feudal castles standing here and there on the hills above. Geislingen (161 miles) is situated at the foot of a range of hills called the Rauhe Alp. Above it is the Cuitle of Hetfenstein. The country in this vicinity is very beautiful. We presently enter centuries, at the sole expense of the townspeople. The unfinished tower is 318 ft. high. It was originally intended to have carried it up to 490 ft. There is a mag- nificent view from the summit. The principal portal, beneath the tower, is 45 ft. in height, and 6 ft. deep, and is finely sculp- tured. The length of the building is 455 ft. externally, and 391 ft. inside. The nave, 146 ft. high, is supported by twelve columns. Many of the windows in the choir are of finely stained glass. There is a handsome altar-piece, curi- ously carved oaken stalls, a richly sculptured tabernacle, some fine GERMANY. Route ilS.— FRAN K FORT TO MUNICH. •Wl brasses, a handsome pulpit and font, and an cxci'lli'nt or;^;in, tlie largest in lierni;iny. The Rath- haus is of the fourteenth century. Before it stands a handsome (jot hie fountain. Covered passages h-ad from the Rathhaus to the Veste, a series of subterranean passages and dungeons. Another curious build- ing is the Deittches Hans, built in the thirteenth century, and re- stored in 17'26. Leaving LUin we cross the Danube to Kew Ulm, and emersrins; from the station there, see, on the left, the citadel and towers of Wilhelmsburg and Veste, and the village of Klchin- gen, which gave the title of Duke to Marshal \ey as a reward for an advantage gained by him here over the Austrians, in 1805. GuNZHi'iiG ( 195 miles), the Gunlia of the Romans, is situated at the confluence of tJie Giinz and Danube. Piissing some places of no particular note we reach Augs- burg (235 miles), (Hotel: Drei Mohren, Goldene Traiibe), popu- lation 50,000. This was once one of the most important towns in Europe. It was a considerable town in the time of the Romans. It is known in history as the place where many iJiets o( the Empire have been held. It is situated near the confluence of the W Crtach and the Lech, and is still a place of considerable industry. Banking and stock-jobbing are carried on extensively here. From its situa- tion it once commanded a good deal of the transit trade of Europe. Many of the houses are quaint, and display signs of former mag- nificence. The Weberhiius is adorned with fine frescoes. In the MaiimiluDtsMiai'Se, the prin- cipal street, are three bronze fountains: one, called Hercides- bnuinen, represents Hercules slaying the hydra; at the base are tliree Naiads bathing. An- other, near the Church of St. Maurice, has a fissure of Mercury; anil the third, near the Rathhaus, is called Au<^u^tu^hruii»en, and is adorned witli a figure of that Em- peror. The Rnthhaus is an Italian structure of the seventeenth cen- tury. On the s(>cond story is the Golden Hall, a spacious apartment adorned with frescoes richly gilt. Four chambers, called the Princes' Chambers, open into it. They con- tain curious stoves of pottery, and finely panelled walls and ceil- ings. To the north of the Rath- haus is the Tower of Perlasch, a tall belfry. The Cathedral pos- sesses few attractive features. The north and south portals are finely sculptured ; in the latter are curious brazen doors, with bas-reliefs of scriptural and other sulnects. The Reside»z or Schloss was formerly tlie Palace of the Bisiiops, Here the Protestant manifesto called the " Confession of Augs- bitrc;" was presented to the Em- peror Charles V. in 1530. The Church of St. Ulric and St. Afra, also in the Maximilianstras.se, contains the tombs of those saints. Maximilian laid the first stone of the choir in 1500. The nave was commenced in 1467. The adjoin- ing convent is now used as a barrack. The Church of St. Anna con- tains some good pictures : over the baptismal altar, " Christ blessing the Little Children," by L. Cranach ; portraits of Luther, and the Elector, .lolin Frederick of Saxony, by the same artist ; a portrait attributed to Van Dyck, 6cc. The Picture Gallery is in a building which was formerly the Convent of St. Catherine. It is open from ten to two o'clock on week-days, and from ten to twelve (52 Rotite lis— FRANKFORT TO MUNICH. Germany. oa Sundays. Some good paintings are to be seen here. , The Museum of Antiquities is worth a visit. The Allgemeine Zeitung, one of the oldest and best newspapers in Germany is printed at Augsburg. From this pLace branch lines go to Nuremberg and Lindau. On leaving Augsburg we cross Munich (in German, Mun- chen,) (Hotels : Vier Jahres- ZEITEN* (Four Seasons), Baier- iscHER HoF,* Bellevue.) Munich is the capital of the kingdom of Bavaria. It is situated upon both banks of the Isar, in a barren plain. At the end of 1867, it had 174,688 inhabitants, inclu- ding the garrison (24,859). It is AUGSBURG. the Lech, and proceed through the district called Lechjeld, where the Hungarians defeated the Germans in the 10th century, and were in turn vanquished and driven out of the country. At Pasinc there is a branch to Starnberg. We cross the Wurm, and traverse an un- interesting country, obtaining oc- casional vievi's of the Tyrolese mountains on the south. Shortly before our arrival at Munich we pass, on the left, the Palace of Nymphenburg, with its park and preserves. therefore the fourth city in Ger- many in population, coming after Berlin, Vienna, and Hamburg. The principal streets are the Lud- wigsstrasse, and the Maxmilians- strasse ; the principal squares are Max Joseph Ptutz, h'arls Flatz, Maiimilian Ptutz, Wittelsbach Flatz, the Fromenude Flatz, and Odeon Flatz. It is the seat of the Government, and the residence of the court. As a town, Munich owes its origin to Henry the Lion, Duke of Saxony and Bavaria, who, Mu: Keference 1 Frn letiJctrrh 2 S*MichaeJ.c Ck 3 S' Guf etan Ch 4- Koyal PaJace 5 Arcades 6 Resident Theatrt' 7 Theatre 8 Fost (H'ftrfi 9 Odeoii 10 Palace ofPrjMpoW. JZ War Office 12 Lihrarv 13 Chof S'^Loius i# Vrmen Kapelle forms part of the new Ro^al Palace. King Louis built it between 1826 and 1837. It is in the Romanesque style of the eleventh century. The B(/si/if to 164'' F. The principal spring is covered with a vault of Koman masonry, and is in a building formed like a temple. Here are several remains of Roman sculptures. Beneath the new castle some vestiges of vapour-baths, of the time of the Romans, have been discovered. 7'he Neue Tiinkhatle, or Pump- room, is a colonnade, ornamented with frescoes. The waters are drunk between 65 and 7^ a.m. during which time the band per- forms. Near it are the Promenade and the Convenationshaus. The latter is a fine building with a portico in the Corinthian style. It contains a ball-room, play-rooms, restaurant, and reading-room. The Netie Schloss, so called to distinguish it from an older struc- ture on the summit of the hill above, was built in 1471. It is the summer residence of the Grand Duke. The chief objects of in- terest contained in it are the dun- geons, once the scenes of cruel persecutions practised on victims who had incurred the displeasure of the Margrave, or been con- demned by a secret tribunal that held its sittings within the pre- cincts. This tribunal is alluded to by Scott, in his " Anne of Geierstein." The torture-room still has rings fixed in tlie walls which formed part of the machinery of the rack. Underneath th^ cham- ber of torture is the pit or oubliette into wliich, by a trap-door, victims Were thrown and cut to pieces by a machine composed of wheels armed with lancets. In the Judg- ment-hall remains of the stone seats of the judges are still to be seen, and the outlet to the subter- ranean passage by which they entered the apartment. The Parish Church contains monuments of several of the Margraves. One of the most agreeable ex- cursions is to the Valley oj the Murg and the Castle ofNeu Eberstein.] (Near Sassbach, 2 miles from the railway, on the left, a granite obelisk marks the spot where the French general, Turenne, was killed in 1676, in the campaign against the Austrians.) At Ap- PENWEiER (133 miles) a branch turns off to Kehl, 8 miles distant, and thence to Strasburg and Paris. (See Route 58.) Before reaching Appenweir we see, on the right, the distant spire of Strasburg Cathedral. The Castle of Stau- fenberg, built in the eleventh cen- tury, is seen on a height to the left. At Offenburg (137 miles), {Hotel : Fortuna), population 5,200, there is a statue of Sir Francis Drake, who introduced the potato into Europe. The castle of Ortenburg, destroyed in 1689, was rebuilt in 1834, on the plans of Eisenlohr. Good wines are grown in the neighbourhood. Passing some unimportant places we reach Fuiburg (176 miles. Hotels : Ziihringer HoJ,* Deutscher Hof), population 19,170. It is situated on the borders of the Black Forest, forty miles from Strasburg. It is an open, well-built town. The walls and ditches with which it was formerly surrounded are converted into promenades and vineyards. The Minster or Cathe- OERMANV. Rvute lU.— FRAXKFORT TO BALE. 475 dral is one of the most beautiful and perfect specimens of Gothic architecture in Germany. It is cruciform and built of red sand- stone, was be^un in 1122 and com- pleted in 1513. Its tower is 367 teet high and is remarkable for its elesrance and lisfhtness. In one of Berthold of Ziihrinf^en, the last of his race, who died in 1218. The altar-piece, by Grun, represents the Ascension and Coronation of the Virgin, with the Twelve Apostles on the wings at either side. There are several other paintings by the same artist. CONVERSATIONSHAUS BADEN-BADEN. the chapels, the UniversityChapel, there are among other pictures, a Aativity and an Adoration, by Holbein the younger, the latter considered one of his best works. The ancient and modern stained glass is worthy of attention. In the church is the tomb of The Kaufhaiis (Exchange) is a curious Ciothic edifice of the six- teenth century, biiilt on arches decorated with gilt frescoes. The portal is adorned in a similar manner. In tiie town are two handsome (iothic fountains. The i>chioi>berg affords pleasant pro- 476 Route lU.— FRANKFORT TO BALE. GERMANY. menades, and an extensive pros- pect. Passing several unimpor- tant stations we reach MuLLHEiM (196 miles). (Four miles from tliis station is Baden- WEiLER {Hotel : Rurnerbud), popu- lation 450. It is a fashionable watering-place, with a warm sul- phur spring' used in cases of" gout, rheumatism, &c. Fine viev.s of the Black Forest and Rhine valley may be had from the old Castle, above the town. The remains of Roman baths are the most perfect in Europe.) Bale (215 miles. Hotels: Drei Konige, Filler, Schiceher HoJ ). (For description of Bale, see Route 75.) ROTJTE 115. MUNICH TO RATISBON. 92 W!(7es ; 1st class, 6 ft. 3 kr. ; gjid, 4:Ji. Skr.; 3rd, '2Ji. 'i'2h: iEAVING Munich we reach Friising (23 miles), population 7,500, situated on the left bank of tlie Isar. The Cathe- dral, dating from the thirteenth century, and badly restored in 1722, has a curious crypt. Moos- burg (32^ miles), a town of 2,000 inhabitants, has a curious Roma- nesque church, containing a fine old carved-wood altar. Land- shut (55^ miles), (Hotel: Kron- •prinz) is a town of 41,000 inhabi- tants, pleasantly situated on the Isar. it has three fine old Gothic churches, St. Martin's (1450), St. Jodocus (1338), and the Spi- talkirche ( 1407 ), all built of brick, the first being remarkable for its bold proportions and its stone sculptures. The tower of St. Martin's is 454 feet high. The University, founded by Louis the Rich at Ingoldstadt (1479), was transferred to Landshut in 1800 and thence to Munich in 1826. The Castle of Trausnitz, above the town, is very well worth a visit. The C hapel, which dates from the 13th century, is very curious. At Geiselhorbig (78^ miles) a branch- line turns off to Passaa and Vienna. Passing two or three places of no note we reach Ratisbon, or Regensburg (92 miles. Hotels: Goldenes Kreuz, Zum Weissen Hahii), population 30,357. This town is situated in the midst of a broad and fruitful valley, on the right bank of the Danube, at the mouth of the Regen. The Danube is here crossed by a bridge 1,100 ft. in length, and connecting Ra- tisbon with its northern suburb of Stadt-am-Hof. It presents a strongly -marked media; val cha- racter, with its ancient ramparts, fosses and gates, and its narrow, crooked streets, with their high, gabled houses, while it retains many interesting monuments of its importance and wealth during' the middle ages. Among its churches the most remarkable is the Cathedral, founded in 1275, and restored in 1838, a noble GERMANY. Route 115.— MUN ICH TO RATISBON. 477 specimen of Gothic architecture, especially noteworthy for tlie fine monuments of its former bisliops, and for tiie silver altar and nume- rous painted-fjlass windows with which it is adorned. The church of St. James of Scotland is built in are still preserved. A latticed- room adjoininji^ one of the cham- bers of torture, occupied by the judges, is shown. The Palace of the Prince of I'hurn and Taxis, formerly the Abbey of St. Em- meran, and the arsenal are objects RATISBON. the pure Byzantine style, and dates from the twelfth century. The Rtithhaus, is adorned witii a beau- tiful Gothic portal. In it the Im- perial Diets were formerly held. Underneath the Rathhaus are pri- sons and chambers of torture, in which the instruments of torture of interest. The city contains several monasteries, a synagogue, anti(]uarian museum and picture- gallery, and a royal library of 60,000 volumes. Ratisbon ranks as one of the most ancient cities in (lermany, and was built by the Romans, by whom it was named 478 Route 115.— MUNICH TO RATISBON. GERMANY Reginum. It was a place of con- siderable commercial importance in the early period of Christianity. During the middle ages it was the chief seat of the I ndo- Levantine trade, and was one of the weal- thiest and most populous cities of Southern Germany. From 1663 to the dissolution of the German Empire in 1806, Ratisbon was, with a very short interregnum, the seat of the German Diet. The Walhalla, or Temple of Fame, is 6 miles from Ratisbon. Omnibus twice a day, fare 24 kr. This magnificent edifice is situated upon a height 300 ft. above the Danube. It was built by King Louis in 1830-42, and cost eight millions of florins. It is built after the model of the Par- thenon at Athens, and is of the same dimensions, its length being 218 ft., its breadth 102 ft., and its height 60. The material is white marble. An entablature divides the interior into two parts. It supports 14 caryatides of coloured marble, which in turn support a superior entablature. Along this entablature is a frieze executed by Wagner, representing, in eight compartments, the history of Ger- many up to the time of the intro- duction of Christianity. Along the lower walls are busts of illus- trious Germans to the number of 100, commencing with that of the Emperor Henry, and ending with that of Goethe. The grounds around the edifice are laid out in walks, and the view from them is exceedingly beautiful. Route 116. AUGSBURG TO LINDAU (LAKE OF CONSTANCE). 123 miles; 1st class, 7 fl. 48 kr.; 2nd, bji. 12 kr.; 3rd, 3Ji. 30 kr. i N leaving the station, we pass under tlie old post-road. On our left is the Erzbergersche Gartengut, and we pass Giiggin- gen, where the citizens of Augs- burg have their country houses. At ScHWABMu^'CHE^f (12 miles), a town of 2,500 inhabitants, are the ruins of a Roman bridge. Near P/brse?i, where the Wertach becomes navigable, we obtain a view of the Bavarian Alps. Kaufbeuern (37 miles). (Hotels: Sonne, Hirsch), population 5,000. A manufacturing town on the Wertach, the valley of which we cross on an embankment upwards of 1,310 yards long, and 45 ft. high, and over two viaducts. The summits of the Alps are seen in the distant horizon. Kempten (66 miles). (Hotels: Krone,Strauss), fjopulation 11,000. Situated on the Iller. On the south side rises the Burghalde, an old tower, from the summit of which we have a fine view of the Alps, including the Gr'iintcn, the Daumen, the Hochvo^el, and the Mbdele Gabel. A branch-line goes off to Ulm, by way of Memmin- gen. Immenstadt, a towTi of 1,860 inhabitants, is beautifully situated in a valley surrounded by high mountains. We skirt the beautiful lake called Alp See, and see on the horizon the mountains which rise above Bregenz, and the snow-clad heights of the Appenzell. Beyond Oberstaufen, GERMANY. Route il6.— AUGSBURG TO LIXDAU. 479 we cross the Argenbach, and enter the cutting of Harhatzhoj'en, one of the largest in Germany. It is about 660 yarils long, and about 35 yards deep. Crossing the Kllhofertahel, over a tine via- duct, we reach the embankment of Rentershofen, upwards of 640 yards long. In tiie neighbour- hood of ifergatz (109 miles) are the turf-pits of Degermoss. We again have a view of the range of the Appenzell. In approaching Liudau we obtain a beautiful view of tiie Lake of Constance and the surrounding mountains. Crossing an arm of the lake we reach Lin- DAU (li.'3 miles), (Hotel: Biiier- ischer V/o/*), population 5,600. It is situated near the north east shore of the Lake of Constance, on an island connected with the main land by a wooden-bridge and a railway bridge or embank- ment of stone. Near the wooden bridge are the remains of a tower, called lleidenthurm, tlie construc- tion of which has been attributed to the Romans. On the port is a monument, erected in 1856, to Maximilian II., King of Bavaria. There is a beautiful garden, be- longing to a house called Lin- deiihof, to which tlie public are admitted free on Tuesda\^s and Fridays; on otlier days (except Sundays) a fee of 30 kr. is charged. It commands beautiful views of the lake and mountains. Steamers leave Lindau several times daily for the various towns on the Lake of Constance. (See Route 75.) Fare to Constance, by steamer, 1 rt. 57 kr. • Friedrkhihajen, 57 hr. ; Romanshorn, IJi, 6 kr. Passing, near the walled town Route 117. MUNICH TO VERONA, BY INNSBRUCK. 291 miles: 1st class, 'JO fi. 95 kr.; 2nd, 15.//. 10 kr.; Mi, '9jl. 9ikr. For that part of the journey from Munich to Rosenheim (44J miles), see Route 118. illOM Rosenheim we follow the left bank of the Inn. Kaubling, Neubeuern, overlooked by its castle, we reach Brunnen- bur^. (The view from the castle is very fine.) The ascent of the Wendelstein, 6,400 ft. high, can be made from this point. Near Fischhach, a ft^w miles further on, we see the ruined Castle of Fal- kenstein. Kuffstein (70 miles). {Hotels: Fost, Hirsch), is a for- tress on the frontier of the Tyrol (Custom House). The fort which stands on the summit of the rock is a prison. There is only one approach to it. Stores of all kinds are drawn up by ropes and pulleys. VVe now cross the Inn, and pass- ing W6rgl{79 miles), go through a district abounding in silver and copper mines. Near Brixlegg, (Hotel: Juden- u-irth), we obtain a beautiful view of the valley of the Inn, extend- ing, in clear weather, to the glaciers of the Brenner, Stubau, and Oetzthal. Jenbach (93 miles) is situated at the entrance of the Achenthal. Some distance on the other side of the Inn is the beau- tiful vale of Zdlerthal. On the left we see the CastU of Tratzberg, on the right a Benedictine convent. Schwaz ("98 miles), (Hotel: Post), population 5,500, is situated on the right bank of the Inn. In the 480 Route 117. —MUNICH TO VERONA. Germany. neiglibourliood are rich iron and copper mines, once the property of the famous family of Fugger of Augsburg. The Church is a curious Gothic building. Hall (110 miles) (Hotel: Krone), population 5,200, is celebrated for the salt-mines and salt-works in the neighbourhood. In the Nikels- kirche is a picture of the Saviour by Albert Durer, and an altar- piece by Erasmus Quellinus. In the Titmmel'platztom-naments used to be held. We cross the Inn, and ascend the right bank to Innsbruck (116 miles), (Ho- tels : Osterreichiicher Hof* de I'Eu- rope*), population, 15,500. This town is the capital of the Tyrol. It is situated on the Inn, from which it derives its name, and is surrounded with delightful sce- nery. The valley in which it lies is surrounded by lofty mountains. Tlie Hof Kirche, erected 1553-63, in fulfilment of a vow of Maxi- milian I., contains the magnificent tomb of that Emperor, in the prin- cipal nave. It is a marble sar- cophagus, on which is a kneeling bronze figure of tlie Emperor. The sides of the sarcophagus are ornamented wiUi 24 bas-re- liefs in Carrara marble, the work- manship of which is very elaborate and beautiful. They represent scenes in the life of Maximilian. They are protected by a screen which the custodian will remove for a small fee. On each side are ranged colossal bronze statues to the number of 28, representing distinguished persons, chiefly of the house of Austria, including Clovis and Ru- dolph of Hapsburg. At the left of the entrance is the tomb of Andr6 Hofer, the chief of the insurrection of 1809, who was shot at JMantua in 1810. His body was clandestinely re- covered in 1823 by the Tyrolese, and deposited in this church. Op- posite this is the monument erected by the Tyrolese in 1823 to the memory of all their countrymen who had fallen in the defence of their country. There are several other interesting tombs in the church. In the Rennplatz is an eques- trian statue of the Archduke Leopold v., erected by his wife, Claudie de IMedicis. In the Neu- stadt, the finest street of Inns- bruck, is the column of St. Anne, surmounted by a figure of the Virgin, erected to commemorate the evacuation of the Tyrol by the Bavarians in 1703. At the ex- tremity of this street is the tri- umphal arch erected by the citi- zens in 1765, on the occasion of the entry into the town of Maria Theresa and Francis I. The Palace, built in 1770 by Maria Theresa, stands upon the site of the old palace of Charles V. The great hall and chapel are worth visiting. The Museum contains an in- teresting collection of Tyrolese birds, minerals and plants, and some paintings by Tyrolean artists. A pleasant excursion is to the Castle of Ambras, near Pradl, which may be reached in less than an hour from Innsbruck. The view from the castle over the val- ley of the Inn is very fine. Leaving Innsbriick, we proceed up the valley of the Sill, passing \\ ilton, which has an ancient Ab- bey. Behind it rise the Alps. The hill in the foreground is the Berg Isel. It has on its summit a Gothic monument to the patriot Hofer and his comrades. We pass, on the left, the Patscher Ko- J'eL (7,350 ft.) before reaching Matrey (128 miles). On the right we see the valley of Stubay, with the white peaks of the moun- tains which close it in the far dis- GERMANY. Route lU.— MUNICH TO VERONA. 481 tance. The churcli of Sieimtrh contains three pictures by lAlartin Knoller, a celebrated Tyrolese painter, who was a native of the place. I'assing several places of no note, we reacli Sterzing (1.58 miles), a village of '2,000 inhabi- tants, on the site of tlie Roman station of I'ipiteiinm. In former times it was celebrated for the rich mines of silver, lead, and copper in its vicinity. We have line views up the valleys that open on either side. After passings Sterzing, we see the Castle of fiprechemtein on the left, and that of Reifi'itstein on tiie riglit. \\ e cross over the marsh calh'd Sler- ziii^er Mrins, past the Castle of IVetfensteiii, and enter a ravine which extends for a considerable distance. Fianzenfeste ( 164 miles ) is a strongly fortilied town, beyond which we pass, on the right, the Btitlis of VuUren, and reach Brixev (173 miles), {Hotel: Elephant), population, 3,700. The archbishopric of which it is the see, w;is founded in the 4th cen- tury. The Dom, of the IBth cen- tury, is ornamented in its interior with choice marble. Tlie ancient cloisters have some curious fres- coes and monuments. The Church of ^t. John has a tine tower. At klausen (178 miles) is a nunnery built on a precipitous rock, 700 ft. high. A short distance beyond, we see the fine Castle of Trostburg, at the opening of the Grbdnerthat. Passing through a very romantic country we reach BoTZF.N (197 miles), (Hotel: haiser-krone), population, 10,01)0. This is a very jyrosperous town, situated near the confluence of the Kisack and Talfer. Tourists will find many pleasant excursions in the neighbourhood. Crossing the Kisack we reach liranzoll, situated on the Adige, which is here navi- gable for rafts. We cross that river at Auer, and continue along its valley for some distance. [IMeran (Hotels: Hnssfurthern, Post), the former cai)ital of the Tyrol, is 17 miles from IJotzen — Diligence in three hours. It is one of themost beautifully situated places in the Tyrol, and is a fa- vourite rosort of tourists. Po])u- lation, 2,800.] Trent (232 miles), (Hotels: de la Ville, Europa), population, 14,000. It is situated on the left bank of the Adige, and is sur- rounded with walls, flanked by towers formerly 30 in number, from which number its name is derived. The Cathedral, in the Romanesque style, was com- menced in 1'212. It contains some handsome monuments. In one of the chapels is the crucifix used at the great Council of Trent (1545-63). The Church of Sa7ita Mariti Maggiore was erected in 1520 on the site of an earlier structure. It is of red marble. 5?ome of the sittings of the Council of Trent were held here. The Castle of' Bnon Consiglio was formerly the residence of the prince-bishop, and is now a barrack. Rovkredo (246^ miles), a busy town of 11,000 inhabitants, situ- ated on the left bank of the Adige. It is the j)rincipal seat of the Tyrolese silk trade, this branch of industry having been of import- ance as far back as 1200. The Castle has a singular tower. .Mori (249 miles). Carriages for RivA, on the Lake of Garda, 20 miles. Hotfl at Riva: Sole d'Oro.* We pass Rarazzone, Ala (formerly renowned for its silk and velvet manufactures), and several other unimportant sta- tions, and reach Peri (265 miles), in the Venetian territory. Be- H n 482 Route 118.-AIUNICH TO VIENNA. GERMANY. yond this, we pass through a ravine, on each side of which rise precipitous rocks, while the Adige rushes helow. Three forts command the Pass at its southern extremity ; thatof Rivoli is near the scene of the famous victory gained by Napoleon over the Austrians in 1797. Several forts are passed further on. Cross- ing the Adige at Parana, we pass St. Lucia, where the line from Milan to Venice falls m. We presently reach Verona (291 miles). (See Route 127.) Route 118. MUNICH TO VIENNA. 298f miles ; first-class, 24^. 58 kr. ; second-class, 18 _/^. 25 kr. ; third- clitss, 12 Ji. 36' kr. jEAVING Munich, we see on the left, the Statue of Bavaria, and presently reach Grois- liesselhotie (6f miles). We cross the Isar over an iron bridge. At Hohkinchen (T3% miles), a branch line turns off to Miesbach. Pro- ceeding along the valley of tne Mangfall, we reach Aibling (37^ miles), {Hotel: Post), the Roman Albianum. It is frequented on account of its mud baths. Its castle stands on a height above the town. On the left, beyond Aib- ling, is the Gothic stone cross, with abronze figure of the \ irgin, raised by the women of Aibling in honour of the Queen of Bavaria, who parted from her son Otho he re, on his departure for Greece, of which country he had been elected king, in 1833. To the south we observe the Wendelstein, 6,065 ft. above the sea. Rosen- heim (44^ miles), ( Hotel : Goldene Traube), population, 2,500. It is situated near the confluence of the Mangfall and the Inn, and has considerable saltworks, the salt- water being brought from Reichen- thal, several miles distant. There is a beautiful view from XheSchloss- garten, to the east of the town. (From Rosenheim, a branch line goes to Innsbruck and Verona ; see Route 117.) We cross the Inn, and passing along the shore of the lake called the Simsee, to Endorf, turn off to the pretty village of Prien (61 miles), on the Chiemsee,a, lake about 12 miles long by 3 broad. The lake has three islands: Herrnwurth, on which is a building, formerly an abbey ; Fvauenwurth, containing a nunnery, and a hotel ; and Krau- linsel, formerly a kitchen garden for tlie monastery and nunnery. We keep by the south shore of the lake to Uebersee (69 miles), and presently reach Traunstein (89jmiles), {Hotels: Hirsch, Post), a town of 3,500 inhabitants, plea- santly situated above the Traun. There are salt-works here ; the salt coming from Reichenthal, 21 miles off. The town was destroyed by fire in 1851, and has been re- built in modern style. To the east- ward we see the Salzburg Alps. Passing 7eise«dci)^'(92 miles), near wliicli we observe the ruins of Ruschenberg Castle, we enter Aus- tria, near Freilassing, and pre- sently reach Salzburg( 103 miles), ( Hotels : D E l'E u r o p e,* Net- boeck), population, 17,500. (The Austrian Custom-House is here.) This town, known to the Romans as Juvavia, is beautifully situated on the Salza, chiefly on the left OERMASr. Route Ufi.— MUNICH TO I'lENNA. 4«.1 bank. The river banked on botli sides by precipitous craijfS, rushes throufjli a uiitural ijate-wav. The heij^hts on either side of the river are crowned with edifices. That on the h'ft, called tl.e .Miinchsbpr;^, is sunnouiitfd by the castle called Hohi-n Sidzliurg, an irrejjular feudal citad'd of tlie 11th ceiitui-y, and durinj;; the middle aj^t-s the residence of tiie archbishops of Salzburg, who combined the dig- nity of i)rinces of the German em- pire with their ecclesiastical rank. The castle, now dismantled, serves as a barrack. The Cathedral, or Domkirche, was built in 161 4, of white mar- ble, in the Italian styh'. It con- tains monuments of the prince bishojis, and some good paintings. It has six organs. Tlie abbey church of St. Peter wa.s founded by St. Uupert, and rebuilt in l(i.i7. It contains the tomb of St. I!u- pert. 'l"he Abbey has a valuable library of 50,000 volumes. The cemetery of St. Peteris well wortli visiting. The vaults hewn in the face of the rock, and tlie chapels attaclied, dating from the period when they were consecrated by St. Rupert (58'2), are very inter- esting. The Margaretlien kirche, in the middle of the cmetery, dating from 1485, has been re- stored. In tlie last vault of the arcadeson the north, Mich. I laydn, the composer, is buried. Observe the modern monument of the Countess Lanckoronska, by Sch- wanthaler. The Kesidenz Schloss, or Palace, was founded in 1110, by Archbishop Conrad, and has been greatly added to and cmbi-llished by his successors. Opposite to it is the Xeubau, government build- ings, containing a permanent ex- hibition of art, the tower of which has a chime of bells, which are usually played at 7, 11, and 6 o'clock. On the Residenz Platz, is a line monumental fountain, 4.5 ft. high. Kach of the hippopo- tami, a.s well as the figures of A has, are hewn from a single block of marble. In the adjacent Platz is the bronzi- statue of .Mo- zart, by Schwanthali-r. Mozart W!is born at .Sal/burg, Cietn-ide- gasse, 2^5. The Suminer riding schonl, an am])]iithHatn', hewn in the rocks of the .Miinchsberg, is very oirious. The jHi/.sel, from which the prospect is much more extensive; but the best view of all is to be obtained from tlie StudtpUilz, which reaches to the I'litersherg, 6,465 ft. high, noted for its curious caverns. Near this mountain is the Hdhe-Gull, 8,000 ft. high. The environs af- ford pleasant excursions. Leaving Salzburg, we j)ass the Capuziner- berg, and a few miles further, spe, on the right, the lake called \V '^euUtor K Hjrhrrlhor V J'>-him\eIfli,n- ij Rifth eti tJuwm tJwi • II Fran-i, Jojephsthoi- 1 Stni'ffi/h.'r .1 I'ariilinenthtw 1. . //A' CariUhnerfhth >1 '('« CanUhiiciih-.'! 2 ChL-fff fii^ I'tiffticius y t/t^ iutfu.rlin.-- 5 Ch..o£ iheJIuiorUi\' 6 OmaJi'^ ->''^/'A'Tr/rs /iirrrof/i^. 3 Maria Jfif,/i'M 3 }iofin*»y iO Opera. i2 Bsh'etiFTc \ V « !^ Appleton's Etiropeaii Gxiide Book. NA. Malbv ^- Sons. London. GERMANY. Route 118.— MUNICH TO VIENNA. 48b containing' the grave and monu- ment of (jeni-ral Loudon. Uiitlel- dorf is i^rcatly trcciut'iitcd l>y tlit; Viennese on Sundays and lioli- days. It abounds in jjli-asant vil- las, catVs and jmblic fjjardens. Near I'enzing, on tlio rit^lit, is seen the lni])i'rial Palaceol Hcliiin- brunn, witliits beautiful grounds. Vienna {Hotels: Grand Hotel,* Eizherzog Karl, Oester- reichiicher Hof, Uoldites Lamm (in tlie Lfopoldstadt), Romischer hni- ier, Miiitsch, haiiierin Elizabeth), population 6 lO,(ifKf^ ^ - -~ \ iiNNA (in German IVien), the capital ot'tlie Austrian Empire, is situated at the toot of the W iener mountain, in a plain near the right bank of the Danube, which there receives tlie small river Wien. Vienna is composed of the old town, called the Sladt, and thirty- four suburbs. The city was foV- titied in the sixteenth century bv tlie Emperor Fi-rdiiiand 1.; and until 18J8 it w;u3 surrounded by ramjjarts, bastions, and a deep ditcii, which have been since demolished. A boulevard round tlie Stadt, or cit^-, planted with trees, sejiarates it from tlie su- burbs. I he citu is the commercial part, and contains the iinj)erial palace, and the greater number of tlie ministerial and ambassadorial residences. The principal streets are the tiohlmarkt, the kdinthnei- strasse, the Graben,Mid the Stephen- gplatz. The cathedral and the castle excej)ted, the city contains few remarkable edifices. Until 1858, the ramparts were perforated by twelve gateways for communi- cation with the suburbs. In 1857, an Imperial decree ordained the enlargement of the city. In virtue ofa plan accepted by the Emjteror, tlie ramjtarts have been demolished and the fosses tilled up; a boule- vard occupies the place of the glacis; it is bordered by fine houses, gardens, &c. Tlie prin- cii)al suburbs are the LeopoUhtadt on the north; tlie Mi/rw/i///', south- west ; the Wieden, south ; and the Landitrasse on the east, 'i'he high street of Jiig.'rzeil is the place of resort of the fashionable world. It leads to the Prater — the Bois- de-BouIogne of the X'iennese. The chief street of Mariahilf lies through the industrial ipiarter. The suburb of Wieden is the largest and most populous. The suburb of Landstrasse con- tains a great number of ]>alatial ri'sidences and gardens. Tlie greater number of the benevolent institutions are in the suburb of Alster. X'ienna owes its origin to a camp which the Romans esta- blished there, for the defence of the northern frontier of their em- ])ire. From the fifth century it was invaded by the barbarous peojile who came from the East ; and subsequently became part of tlie Dstmark (^the eastern march or frontier) created by Charlemagne, In 1160, the .Margrave Henry" II. made it his residence. Vienna developed itself rapidly in the reign of Rudolph 1\ . (1365), but especially in that of Ferdinand 1. and his successors, up to the six- teenth century, when it became the ordinary residence of the Em- perors of Ciermany. It was be- sieged, but in vain, in 15'i9, by a Turkish army of iyO,0()0 men, under the orders of the Sultan Soliman. In 1683, it was again besieged by the Turks, under Kara .Mustapha. The King, .John Sobieski, and the Duke of Lor- raine with the imperial army, raised the siege. In 1619 it wivs uselessly besieged by the Count de Thurn, at the head of the Protestants. The plague made great ravages in \ienna in 1381, 15-11, 1564J and 1679. The Bishop- 486 Route im.—MUNICH TO VIENNA. GERMANY. ric, fouBded in 1480, was made an Archbishopric in 1723. Vienna has phiyed an important part in history. On the 13th November, 1805, and the 12th of May, 1809, it was taken by the French; Aus- tria and France signed the treaty of peace there in 1809. In 1814 and 1815 it was the seat of the congress of sovereigns who ar- ranged and signed the stipula- tions known under the name of the Treaties of Vienna. Confer- ences of the ministers of tlie Ger- man States took place there in 1819 and 1834. On the 13th of May, 1848, a revolution broke out which led to a radical change in the government of Austria. A new insurrection in October, 1848, was repressed by the Imperial army, after a bombardment which compelled the city to surrender. During the Eastern war, and un- til the Congress of Paris (1856), Vienna was the centre of diplo- matic negotiations between the belligerent powers. Amongst the Statues and Com- memorative Monuments are: — The equestrian statue of Joseph III. on the Josephs Platz, erected in the reign of Francis I. The Phnperor is represented on horse- back, stretching out his hand and blessing his people. The Franzen's monument, in the inner court of the Palace, was raised in 1846, by Ferdinand I. I'lie granite is adorned with bronze bas-reliefs, representing Science, Coinage, Christian Art, Industry, Mining Science, Agriculture, (Commerce, &c. ; at the tour angles are seated the statues of Religion, Fortitude, Justice, and Peace. The pedestal supports the statue of the Emperor Francis, 17 ft. high. The eijuestrian statue of the Archduke Charles, in the outer fiurttj;/ats!, was erected in 1860. I'he Archduke is represented at the battle of Aspern, at the moment when he lifts the flag to lead the Grenadiers to the attack. At the four angles of the pedestal are eagles with the Imperial cipher. In the same place is the eques- trian statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy. In the Palace-park is the eques- trian statue of the Emperor Francis I. of Germany, husband of Maria Theresa. In the Volksgarten, opposite the castle, is the temple of Theseus, a reproduction of the temple of" Theseus at Athens, built in 1823, after the designs of Nobile. It contains the colossal group in white marble of the combat of 'J'heseus with the Minotaur, the chief work of Canova. N apoleon ordered this group for the City of Milan. It was afterwards pur- chased by the Emperor Francis. The column of tlie Trinity, on the Graben-platz, was erected in 1679 by the Emperor Leopold I., on the cessation of the plague. The column, of white Salzburg marble, is 71^ ft. high ; on the pe- destal is a rock supporting Reli- gion ; a cherub overthrowing the Monster of the plague ; and some bas-reliefs representing episodes of Biblical history. On tlie sum- mit of the column is the Emperor kneeling; and angels rising to- wards heaven, or the throne of the Trinity. Tlie monument in the Hohernurkt was erected in fultilinent of a vow of Leopold 1. riie Emperor had promised to erect this monument, if his son Joseph returned safe from the war against France, and he did return as the victor of Landau. The Emperor died be- fore the fulfilment of his promise, but tlie Emperor Joseph caused tlie monument to be erected, after the designs of Fischer of Erlach, f GERMANY. Route nH.~MU\lCII TO VIENNA. 487 in wood. Clifirles \l., in 17;>2, had it ext'cutcd in marble and bronze. It consists of a canojiy, suiiported h_v C'orintliian columns, under vvliicli is a ^roiij) ri'iiresent- injj till! marriajje ot'tliu \ irgin. Vienna has many tine foun- tains and bridsjes, none of which demand special description. Of the (Jiii'Hciii'S, the most in- teresting,' is the C'aiiikdual ot 8r. Stii'iii-n's, or Dom, which, ac- cordinu^ to tiie chronicles, dates from the I'Jth century. It was rebuilt in Ij.M), by Duke Rudolph I\'., and comi)leted in the 16th centurj'. It is an example of pure Gothic. It is 333 ft. long, •iHO ft. wide, and 85 hiu^h, divided into a nave and two aisles. The roof is covered with coloured tiles. The tower is considered one of the finest examples of (iothic ai"t, and is -Ha ft. in heisrht. The spire, damaf^ed several times by ligflitnint,', and in 1809 by French cannon balls, was in j)art demo- lished in 183'.>, reconstructed in iron in 1845J, and again destro^'ed in 1860. The restoration of the edifice has since been confided to the architect Forster, and is now comi)leted. On the exterior of the catlie- dral, the liiesentlwr (the Giant's door) on the principal facade is worth notice ; it dates from the 16th century, and is only opened on occasions of great ceremony. Under canopies cut in stone stand the statues of Rudolph IV. and Catherine his wife, daughter of the Emperor Charles IV. On the south side is the entrance called the Siiiserthof. By the side of tlie vestibule is the tomb of Otlio- Nithart-Fuclis, the jester of the Duke Otho the Joyous. On the nortli side, against the wall, is the stone pulpit from which tlie Franciscan, .lean Capristan, in 1461, preached the crusade against the Turks ; and the entrance to the new vaults is by the side of the jiuliiit. lnsi(le the church, in the nave, is the stone puljiit, sculjjtured by JNIaster I'ilgram, one of the archi- tects of the first cathedral, with his own effigy, and those of the four Fathers of the Church. 'I"hc stalls of the clioir, richly carved in wood, are of the loth century. The church contains 38 altars. The high-altar is of the 17th cen- tury ; the altar-i)iece represents the martyrdom of St. Ste|jhen. Above tile altar is a picture of the \'irgin in the style of the old Byzantine school. Behind the high-ciltar is the Relic -room, wliich contains a quantity of trea- sures, acquired, for the most part, since the Ikh century. The choirs, right and left, have been recently restored. In the north aisle, in the women's choir, is an altar-piece representing the As- sumption, by Spielberger. 'i'he cenotaph of Rudolph 1\'. is the oldest piece of mediajval sculpture in \'ieima; it was erected to the memory of the founder of the church, but has been much damaged and disfigured. The Barbtini-chapel was restored upon the occasion of the attemj)t upon the life of the Em]ieror-Francis Joseph ; the tine altar, erected by the I'rincesses Lobkowitz and Kinsky, was finished in 1856. 1 his chapel is ornamented with statues and stained glass. The Tiina, or Savoy Chapel, contains the tombs of Prince Eugene and the Duke Emmanuel of Savoy. The choir of the I'assion contains the tomb of the Em])eror Frederick 111. Upon a sarco- phagus of red marble re])oses the figure of the Emperor. The altJU"- piece, by Sandrart, represents the Passion of the Saviour. The old vaults contain the tombs of seven- 488 Route IIQ.— MUNICH TO VIENNA. GERMANY. teen princes or princesses of the house of Austria. The Church of the Augustines, in the Augustinergasse, near the Josephsplatz, originated in a vow made by Frederic during his cap- tivity in Bavaria. Commenced in 1327, it was finished in 1339. The Emperor Ferdinand II. made it the church of the court, and gave it up to the bare-footed Augus- tines. The Emperor Joseph II. restored it, in 1783 ; and all tlie great religious ceremonies of the court are celebrated here. The cenotaph of Maria Christina, Duchess of Saxe-Tescben, is re- markable as one of the chief works of Canova, and the finest piece of sculpture in Vienna. The fodten-Kapelle, contains the fine cenotaph of the Emperor Leopold II., sculptured by Zanner. The statue of the Emperor is a very remarkable work. There are, be- sides, the tombs of the two field- marshals Counts Daun. The Lo- retto Chapel was founded, in 16'27, by the Empress Eleanor ; and in it are deposited, in silver vases, the hearts of the princes and prin- cesses of the house of Austria. The Hofburgkirche (the Castle- church), was rebuilt in 1449, in the reign of Frederick III., and was restored by Maria Theresa. It contains several good pictures. The music of the chapel is excel- lent ; the public are admitted on Sundays. The church of the Capuchins, on the Netiemarkt, was founded in 1619, by the Empress Anna, wife of Matthias, and finished in 1632. It contains the vault of the Imperial family, and about thirty of their coffins, commencing with that of Matthias, wlio died in the year of the foundation of the church, and includes those of Maria-Theresa and her husband Francis I., and of the Duke of Reichstadt (Napoleon II.). The vault has been several times en- larged — the last time in 1841. Strangers can visit the vault by applying at the convent, close to the church. The church of Maria-am-Cie- stade, or Maria-stiegen, in the Passauergasse, is one of the oldest churches in Vienna, and, after tliat of St. Stephen, the finest S])ecimen of Gothic architecture in the capital. It was enlarged during the 13th and 14th centu- ries. The heptagonal tower, 197 ft. high, terminating in a lighted dome, is remarkable, as well as the facade of the principal en- trance. The Emperor Francis restored the church, which he gave up to the Signorists. It is the national church of the Bohe- mians ; the magnificent high-altar was completed in 1842. Tlie Carlskirche, or church of St. Charles Borromeo, in the suburb of the Wieden, near the old glacis, is one of the hand- somest churches in Vienna. It was built in fulfilment of a vow of the Emperor Charles VI., by Fischer of Erlach, and completed in 1737. It is in the Italian style, ,ind surmounted by a dome 98 ft. high and 655 ft. in diameter, and is flanked on each side by an arcade. The principal entrance is reached by eleven steps in front of a portico supported by eleven Corinthian columns. The front has illustrations in sculpture, of the terrors of the plague of 1715. The interior is splendid, and over the high-altar is a group in white marble, representing the glorifica- tion of St. Charles Borromeo. Tlie Votivkirclie, or church of the Saviour, on the Glacis of Alser,was built in commemoration of the attempt made upon the life of Francis-Josepli, in the year 1853. The Emperor laid the first OERMANV. Route 118.— MUNICH TO VIENNA. 489 stone, which was brought from the .Mount of (Jlivi\s, in I'alestine, April 'Jl, 1856. The style is de- corated Gothic. Tiie Imperial Palace, or Hof- buri,', is an assenibhiLje of build- in<;s of ditVerent periods, which do not present, from an architec- tural point of view, anything re- markable. Jts orii^in !j;oes back as far as the loth century. The Uuke Leopold of IJabenburg, raised upon the present site of tlie " Schweizerhof," a palace of which the towers still exist. This buildin;', enlarj^ed by Otta- ker and Frederic ill., was ^^iven its present form by Ferdinand I., the Swiss f^ard bein-j ciuartereu there. The old i^ateway of the Swiss court, built in tlie 16tli century, was restored in 1851. Opposite this palace, was the castle of the Counts of Cilly, who ^ave way to the Imperial dynasty ; after a fire, which re- duced It to ashes, it was restore 1 by Rudolph 11., and received the name of Kudolphsbursf, a name afterwards cliaii;j:ed for that of Amalienhof, after the Empress Amelia, wife of Joseph 1. In 1666, under Leopold 1., was built the wing called Leojioldinische Burg, now occujiied by the body- guard. A fourth wing, which contains the Chancery, was built in 17^8 in the reign of Charles IV'. These four buildings form a square called the Franzensplatz. Charles 1\'. had conceived the idea of rebuilding the Palace after a magnificent plan of Fischer of Erlach, but this design was only carried out in tlie portion which contains the winter apartments, finished in 1735. The library- building was added in 1729. The cabinet of natural history was built in 1761, and rebuilt by Joseph U. The wing which con- tains the Knights' Hall, was built in the reign of Francis L in 1805. The Leo]>oUl wing contains on the first floor, the ajiartrnents of the ]'^in[)eror and Ein[)ress, which strangers are allowed to visit, in tlie absence of the court. In the Swiss Court are the apartments of tlie Empress Dowa- ger; the castle cimrcli; tiie cabinet and private library of the Em- peror ; and the treasure chamber. The wing calh'd the lleichs- ku/izlet was formi*rly the seat of the Suin'eme Council of the Ger- man Empire; it now contains the private apartments of the Emperor and his children, and the grand Batthyani staircase by Fischer of Erlach. The Josephsplatz buildings con- tain the Imiterial library; the cabinet of natural history, and the ball-rooms. The Libraru contains over 300,000 volumes of printed books, and a vast collection of manu- scripts and engravings. Tlie Cahinel of Xatural Histori/ is excellently arranged. Open on Thursdays from 9 to 12, and on other days for a small gratuity. The Cahinel of Mineralogy occu- pies three halls. The Treasure Clunnb.'r contains the coronation regalia of Char- lemagne, formerly preserved at Niireniberg; those of the Em- perors of Austria; of Napoleon, as Kingofludy; the cradle and other objects belonging to the King of Rome, Napoleon's son ; a rich collection of di;unonds, among others that of Charles the Bold, weighing 133 j carats; an emerald, cut into a box, weighing 2,780 carats; the Imperial collar of the Ciolden Fleece, composed of 150 brilliants; thedecorationof Maria- Theresa, enriched with 5t8 dia- monds ; costumes of the 15th cen- tury ; the sabre of Tiinour, cvc. \\ ith the regalia are preserved 490 Route IIQ.—MUNICH TO VIENNA. GERMANY. the sacred relics used at the coro- nation of the German Emperors, to wit : the holy spear, and nails of the cross, a tooth of John the Baptist, a piece of the coat of St. John tlie Evangelist, three links of the chains of Saints Peter, Paul, and John; the arm-bone of St. Ann, a piece of the true cross, and a piece of the tablecloth used at the Last Supper. The Cuhinet of Coins and Anti- quities is exceedingly rich in objects of interest, amongst which are generally admired the famous salt-cellar of Benvenuto Cellini, described by him in his Life; and the cameo of Leda and the Swan, by the same artist. The Imperial Arsenal, until 1848, occupied a large palace in theRenn- gasse, but was closed after the pillage by the insurgents in that year. The New Arsenal, one of the grandest buildings in Vienna, is outside the city near the Belve- dere-Linie barrier. It was com- menced in 1849, finished in 1855, in the Anglo-Saxon style, and in the form of an oblong square. It contains the Museum of Arms of all periods, and the manufactory of arms, artillery, and projectiles. Nine steam engines, and more than 2,000 men are emploj'ed in it. Open daily, except on Sundays and festivals. The two Belvedere palaces, in the VVieden, were built (1693- 1724) for Prince Elugene of Savoy. After the death of tJhe Prince, the Emperor bought the Palaces and gardens. '1 hey are distinguished as the Upper and Lower Belve- dere, sejiarated by the garden. I'hey contain tlie Imperial ]\lu- seums. The picture-gallery in the Upper Palace, founded by the Emperor Maximilian I., enlarged by Ru- dolph II., and especially by Charles IV., contains nearly 1,800 pictures, and ranks as one of the most celebrated galleries in Eu- rope. This collection comprises examples of all the schools: on the ground floor of Italian and Dutch ; on the first floor of I talian, Spanish and Dutch ; and on the second floor of the older and mo- dern schools. Amongst the artists' names may be found those of Paul Veronese, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Giorgione, Tintoretto, Bassano, Caravaggio, Perugino, Carlo Dolce, Leonardoda Vinci, Andrea del Sarto, the Caracci, Cor- reggio, Guido Reni, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Ruj-sdael, Wouvermans, Teniers and Ostade. The lower Belvedere contains the collection of antiquities, con- sisting chiefly of Roman sculp- tures ; and the Ambras Museum, brought from the Castle of Am- bras, near Innsbruck, in the Tyrol, upon its temporary cession to Ba- varia in 18U5. The last-named contains many suits of armour of historical personages ; portraits of illustrious characters of the 15th and 16th centuries, principally of the house of Hapsburg; objects of art, and illuminated manuscripts. The collection of armour is one of the most interesting in Europe, the finest suit being that of Alexander Farnese, with gilt reliefs on a black ground. Among the private collections worth \dsiting are the gallery of Prince Esterhazy, and that of Prince Liechtenstein, founded by Prince Adam Liechtenstein, who also built the palace. The latter contains works of Guido Reni, Correggio, Raphael, F. Francia, Sassoferrato, Giorgione, Caravag- gio, Carlo Dolce, Van Dyck, Ru- bens, Rembrandt, Van der Heist, Jordaens, Ostade, &c. The Imperial Riding-school and coach - house are well worth visiting. GERMANY. llmte IIQ.— MUNICH TO VIENNA. 491 The UvrvFRSiTY has a larj^er numbf^r of studfuts than any other in Germany. It was founded by Maria 'I'lieresa in 175ti. It in- cludes departments of theolog-y, philosophy, law and political economy. The school of medicine is justly celebrated. Many of the (jardens and pub- lic promenadi'S will liave been seen by the tourist in his visits to i)laces already mentioned, but we may specially mention the Garden of the Palace of Prince Schwartzen- berg, one of the finest in Vienna, which is open to the public, as are also (in the absence of the prince) the apartments of the palace. Theatres. A magnificent Opera House, one ofthe finest in Europe, has recently been completed; it is situated in the Opera- Ring. It is handsomely decorated and contains seats for 3,000 persons. The Ho/bur^ Theatre, attached to the i)alace, holds the same place at Vienna as the Theatre Francais at Paris. It is appropriatecl to the production ot the regular drama. The Kiimlhnerthor Theatre was, before the erection of the new opera, the fashionable opera house. The Prater, the princijjal pro- menade of the V'iennese, is a wood which occupies the south-eastern part of an island, in the Danube, to the north of the suburb of Leo- poldstadt. It is divided into the upper and lower Prater. The high street ofthe Jiigerzeile is the princi[)al avenue which leads from the city to the wood. It termi- nates at a point called the Prater- stern, and is continued across the wood to the Danube. From this j)oint another avenue leads to the Lusthans, a restaurant. Thence again, a bridge crossing the river leads to the race-course. A part of the wood is reserved for the Emi)eror's shooting, and a phea- santry. The future of Vienna bids fair to convert the fim,' old Residenz- Stadt of the llapsburgs, within a few years, into one of the most prosj)erous as well :is most beauti- ful cities in the world. Since the disastrous campaign of 1859, and more especially since the terrible calamities suffered by the Imjwrial forces in the summer of 1866, the commerce and population of \ienna have increased to an ex- tent that appears almost miraculous to those who were acijuainted with the city ^0 years ago. With its suburbs the Austrian capital num- bers more than three quarters of a million of inhabitants; its Opera House and Conservatoire are un- rivalled in Europe ; and the Rings, when completed, will be tlie finest streets in the world. The municipality does not, how- ever, limit its enteq)rise to mere embellishment; it has recently undertaken a costly and magnifi- cent system of water-supply, now being carried out ; and has, more- over, with the aid of the Duchy of Nether-Austria, commenced the great work of regulating the Danube in such wise as to enable Vienna to receive and transmit an enormous quantity of raw produce and manufactured goods by water. Quays and warehouses form a part of this gigantic project, the inauguration of which took place a short time back in the presence of the Emperor. ^Vhen Austria's mineral and Hungary's cereal resources shall have received their due develo]>ment, \'ienna will be one of the chief emporia of Europe. The neighbourhood of Vienna, on the right bank of the Danul)e, is verv charmins'. All the in- 492 Boute 118.— MUNICH TO VIENNA. GERMANY. teresting points may be visited by omnibus or rail. ScHONBRUNN, the Imperial sum- mer palace, is situated at half an hour's distance south-east from Vienna. This palace, ibrmerly a hunting lodge of the Emperor Matthias, was enlarged and finished in 1775 by the Empress Maria Theresa. Napoleon occu- pied it in 1805 and 1809; its apartments were more recently occupied by the Duke of Reich- stadt, his son, who died there tlie 2nd of July, 1832. The fine double staircase, the theatre, and the orangery of 740 trees, are re- markable. The palace contains 1,500 chambei's ; behind it ex- tends the large park, open to the public. The grand jiarterre is adorned with 32 statues, and a large basin with two fountains in fi-ont of the principal facade. At the bottom of the park, on a hill, is the Gloriette, a colonnade which commands a charming view. There are also in the grounds a Roman ruin ; and the Schone Brunnen, or beautiful fountain, which gave the name to the palace, with a group representing an Undine, by Beyer, and the monument of Maria Theresa. A Zoological and a Botanic garden ai-e connected with the park. Across the park is the village of Hietziug, which contains a great number of villas and coun- ti-y houses, amongst others, the villa of the Duke of Brunswick ; it also contains a theatre, and several jjublic gardens. Near Schonbrunn is also the village of Penzing. At Baden are some alkaline and sulphurous springs and baths, frequented from the middle of May to the middle of October. Laxenburg is an Imjierial sum- mer-palace, which is reached by a branch of the southern railway in f of an hour. Its divisions are distinguished as the " old castle," dating from 1693; and the "new castle," or Blue House, from the 18th century. It was the favourite abode of JMaria The- resa, Joseph II., Francis 1., and is a residence of the present Em- peror. The church contains a picture by Van Dyck, and in the apartments are admirable pictures by Canaletto, and a group of JMe- leager, by Beyer. The large park is one of the finest in Europe, and is traversed by the River Schwechat, which forms a lake with several islands. On one of the islets is the Fran- zenburg, a small castle built in true mediaeval style. It contains a hall of arms, a collection of ob- jects of art, a chapel, &c. A- mongst the objects of art may be specially mentioned the armour of Charles V. and Rliilip II., and 17 marble statues of princes of the house of Hapsburg. Route 119. VIENNA TO DRESDEN, BY PRAGUE. 375 miles; 1st class, 27 f. 65 kr; •ind, 20//. 83 h:; 3rd, 14 /i. 3 kr. REAVING Vienna we pass Florisdorf and IVagram, near which _ latter the great battle of the 5th and 6tli July, 1809, took place between the French and Austrians. From Gdnzerndorf (19 miies), a branch goes to Presburg and Festh. Near Durnkruth, we ob- tain a view of the lesser range of the Curpathian mountains. We now go near the River March, the boundary between Hungary and GERMANY. Route 119.— VIENNA TO DRESDEN. 493 Austria, and passing Hohenau, asccml the valley of the 'i'hiiya, luid reach Lu n u i-; \ iir uo ( b'i in iles ) . Here a brancli line <^oes to Olniutz. On the left, near Siiitz (61 miles), rises the U)fty belvedere in tlio park of Prince i^iechtenstein. Crossin-^ a viaduct we reach Rui- gern. Here is an ancient Bene- dictine inon;isterv, fonnded in 1048 by Dui between the Prussians and .Vustrians. ( Branch line to Kiinig'^ratz and Zittau.) Kolin (21.5 miles), {Hotel: Post), population .5,'.)()0. On the right we see an obelisk raised in 1842 to commemorate a \'ictory gained by tlu:'jAustriansoverthe Prussians under Frederick the (ireat in 1757, during the Seven Years' War. Passing some other places of no interest we reach Pr.aove (25(j miles), {Hoteb: Englischer Uof\ Bluuer Stem, Schnartzes Ross), population 155,000. The capital ot Bohemia, and, next to \'ienna, the principal town in the Empire of Austria. It is the seat of an arch-bishopric, and the residence of the prin- cipal officials of Bohemia. The nobles of Bohemia reside here during part of the year. Its site is a regular basin cut in two by the river. Viewed from the bridge, no city in (lerniany surpasses it in the grandeur of its appearance. It con- sists of four quarters, two on each side of the river, the .Vltstadt and Neustadt on the right, and the Kleinseite and Hradschin on the left bank. The Altstadt (the old town) lies along the right bank towards the north. Its streets are narrow, but being the principal S'"at of business, it contains the best shops. The Neustadt encloses the .\ltstadt on the north-east, east and south-east, and was formerly separated from it by walls and a ditch, which has been filled up. On the opjjosite side of the river occup3"ing the bank and the nor- thern portion is the Kleinseite, the abode of the Bohemian nobility, and the site of several remarkable palaces. The other cpiarter, the Hradschin, to the west and south 494 Route 119.— VIENNA TO DRESDEN. Germany. of the Kleinseite, occupies the side of a steep hill, and contains fewer houses than the other quarters, but surpasses them in interest in consequence of the public edifices which it contains. On quitting the terminus, and entering- the Alistadt (old Town), we pass through the Putveilhunn (Powder Tower). This tower is in the Gothic style ; it was built in the 14th century, by the citizens of Prague, in lionour of King- Ladislns II. It was formerly one of the eight gate-towers which gave access to the old town, and sepa- rated it from the Neustadt. 1 he Pulverthurm adjoins, on the north side, the Koidgslwf, an ancient Eoyal palace, now a barrack ; this tower gives access to the Zeltner- gasse, one of the principal streets in the old town. On the left stands the Puluce oj Justice, formerly the house of the commandant-general of the garrison. The Zeltnergasse leads to the Grosse Ring, the principal square in the old town. Here the ancient kings of Bohemia gave fetes and tournaments, and here, in 1621, twenty-seven chiefs of the Protestant party were exe- cuted. Inthecentre is iheMarien- s'dule (Mary's column), erected in 1650, by tlie Emperor Ferdinand III., after the unsuccessful siege of Prague by the Swedes. Here is also a monumental fountain, erected under the Emperor Ru- dolph. The Ratlihaus is on the west side of the Grosse Ring, and stands on the site of a more ancient one, built in the 14th century, of which there only re- main the chapel, the great tower, and the southern fa9ade containing the council-chamber. The present structure was erected between ^838 and 1849, and is in the pthic style. The principal \e is adorned with the statues ings of Bohemia. The east side of the Grosse Ring- is occupied by the Kimky Puluce, the largest building in the old town, and the church called Teynkirche, the facade of which is masked by some old houses with arcades. The Teynhirche is a Gothic building, "built in 1407 by the German merchants of Pi-ague, on the site of the old church, founded in the 9th century, of which the baptistery still exists. The towers, erected by King Podiebrad, are very fine ; their roofs are each flanked by four small towers, also roofed. Their height is upwards of 250 ft. A'ear the Teynkirche is the Cliurch of St. James, founded in 1225, by Ottakar I., and com- pleted in 1261, by Venc&^las I., who is buried here ; it was restored in 1702. It contains the fine tomb of the canon JNIetrowitz, and twenty-two altars adorned with paintings, the chief of which re- presents the martyrdom of St. James. From the Grosse Ring we pro- ceed to the Kleiue Ring and the Kleiiie Curhgasse. Kear the former is the great palace of Clum- Gallua, a chef d'oeuvre of the Italian style, built 1707-12. We next reach the Grosfie Carlsgasse, of which the whole of one side is taken up by the Clementinum, formerly a Jesuits' college. The Emperor Ferdinand 1., in 1556, summoned the Jesuits to Prague in Older to oppose the Protestant tendencies of the university. The Emperor Joseph II. , after the depai-ture of the Jesuits, converted it into a seminary. The struc- ture comprises seven courts, two churches, and two chapels. The Clementinum composes part of the University of Prague; it con- tains a lyceum, a school, a library of 130,000 volumes, a museum of OER.MANY. llmle 119.— VIENNA TO DRESDEN. 49.5 natural history, an observatory, halls of philosophy and theology, an acadt'iuy of line arts, A.c. The Haliiatorkiirhe (Ciiurch of the Saviour), adjoins the Cle- mentinum. its f;i<,-ade fiices the lir'uckeiiplatz. It wiis built by the Jesuits (1578-16jJ') ; it is orna- mented with frescoes ; the stalls in the choir are adorned with 12 wooden statuettes of the Apostles, liv the side of this church is the 1840, on the 600th anniversary of the founding of tin.' University. Ojiposite the Churi-h of the Cru- saders is the Palace of Princ« Colorado - .Mansfeld, containing good collections of pictures and arms. i'he Nutioiud Tlieatve was re- stored and enlarged in 1U.")9. On the FraHien$-Q,iiai, betwi;en the two bridges, is the Monument of' the Emperor Francis I. It was PRAGUE. IViilsche Kapelle, in the form of a rotunda, built in the sixteenth century. The Grosse Carlsscsxe leads to the JJriickenplatz, which borders tiie cjuav of the .Moldau. The east side ot this Place is oc- cupied by the Kreuzhermkirche (Church of the Crusaders), a beautiful building, erected Uu'i- 88, after the model of St. Peter's at Rome. Its interior is splendidly decorated ; the chapter-house is adorned with ])aintings. Near tliis church is the statue of the Emperor Charles IV., erected iu erected in 1845 by the States of Hohemia. It is a monumental fountain, in the form of a Gotiiic jiyramid, 75 ft. high, on which are 8 b;isins. In the centre is the equestrian statue of Francis I., iu bronze, surrounded by figures in sandstone representing the 16 cir- cles of Bohemia, the town of Prague, Art, Science, Commerce, and Industry. The ancient Ghetto, or Jews' Quarter of Prague, f(jrraerly called Judemttidt, has, since 18.'30, been nsimed Josephsiladi. Nearly 10,000 496 Uo,:ic 119.— VIENNA TO DRESDEN. Germany. Jews inhabit this narrow and tor- tuous district. Formerly the Ghetto was closed by 9 gates. We observe the undent' H6tel-de-Ville of the Jews. There is a g-ood view from the tower. There are five syna- gogues, of which the oldest dates from 1250. We see, also, the Reformed Jewish Temple, and near it the Old Jewish Cemetery] it is one ofthe most interesting spots in Prague. It is no longer used, and is completely filled with graves. The Netistadt, or New Town, is situated to the south of the Altstadt, from which it is sepa- rated by the Kolomatstrasiie. This street contains the National Mu- seum of Bohemia, founded in 1818 by Count Kolowrat. It contains a library of 30,000 volumes ; eth- nographical collections ; medals, charts, armorial emblazonments, and seals ; a cabinet of geology, and a collection of antediluvian plants. The ground-floor is oc- cupied by collections of minera- logy. On the first floor are : in the first apartment, wood and ivory carvings, .and an ethnogra- phical collection ; in the second, antiquities, bronzes, arms, drink- ing vessels ; in the third and fourth apartments, the museum of natural history. The Kolowratstrasse, on the south-west side, leads to a large street called Wenzelsplatz, for- merly tlie Rossmarkt. The two extremities of this street are orna- mented by two fountains, one bearing the statue of St. Nepo- muk, the other the equestrian statue of Venceslas. The Wen- zelsplatz abuts upon the Rossthor, one of the open gates of the ram- parts. Frcan the summit there is a fine panoramic view. On the rampart, between the Rossthor and Neuthor, is a monument in memory ofthe Bohemians who fell in the Imperial service in 1848-9. In the south part of the new town is the large square called Curlsplutz. Here is tlie Hotel-de- Ville, or Neustadiher Rathhaus, founded in 1370, and restored in 1806. Of the original building only one tower remains. Prague has only two bridges across the Moldau ; the KarU- hriicke (Charles' Bridge), and the suspension -bridge, or Emperor Francis Bridge. At the east end of the bridge is the memorial called the Kari.s- DENKMAL, erected in 1848 to com- memorate the 500th anniversary of the founding of the University. In niches on each side are figures representing Theology, Philology, Law, and Medicine, and at the angles are statues of two arch- bishops of Prague, a Kolowrat, and Matthias of Arras, the archi- tect of the Cathedral, representing the Scholar, Statesman, Soldier, and Artist of that period. The h arlsbriicke is a stone bridge leading from the old town to the hieinseite. It was commenced in 1358, in the reign of Charles IV., by the architect, Peter Arler, of Gmund ; it was completed in 1503, in the reign of I.adislas II. It is upwards of 1,600 ft. long, by about 34 wide, and rests upon 16 arches. 'I'he extremities are pro- tected by towers : that of the Alt- stadt, built in 1451, is decorated, on the town side, with statues of the Emperors Charles IV., Ven- ceslas, and Sigismond, and others, together with the arms of all the countries formerly subject to the Crown of Bohemia. The facade towards the river was seriously damaged in 1648 by the Swedes, who besieged this tower, without .success, for 14 weeks. The arms of the city of Prague are the only ornaments of this facade. On the h leittseite end there are two towers, one of the fourteenth, the other of CEHMANY. Route 119.— VIENNA TO DRESDEN. 497 the fifteentli centurv. Tlie arches of tlic hridije are adonu'd with .50 statues or f;roupsol'suiiits in stoiir. The most striking oC the statues is that of St. ?> epomuceiius, or Ne- poniuk, patron of Jioheniia; it is of bronze, and the reliefs, also in bronze, were executed at A' lireni- burg. A cross with live stars, on the parapet, marks the s])ot where the saint was thrown into the river bv order of King X'eiiceslas IV'., because he refused to reveal the secrets which the Queen had entrusted to him in the confes- sional. The five stars are in imita- tion of the tiames which the legend states hovered over the spot \v here he lay. He was canonized in 17'28." On the 16th of iMay, his anniversary, the bridge is the re- sort of tliousands of pilgrims, who come from JJohemia, .Moravia, and Hungary, to pay tlieir devotions before his statue. Amongst other statues are those of St. Ignatius, on the right, and St. Francis Xavier, on the left ; they date from the eighteenth century. The Bridge of the Emperor Francis was opened in 18-11. It is about 1,500 ft. long, and 30 ft. wide, and crosses the island of Sch'utze- ninsiL Jt begins at the Franzens- Quai, and crosses over to the southern extremity of tiie Klein- seite. Another island is called tlie Sophien-insel (Sopliia's Island); there is a delightful promenade here, inucli resorted to in summer. In the garden of the restaurant concerts take place every day. After crossing the Karlsbriicke we enter the Briickengasse, and reach the Kleiuseileiier Ring, the principal sipiare in this (juarter. Here is the ancient Rutlihuiis, now converted into Government oliici'S. In the centre of the King is Ra- detskij's Monument, erected in 1858, by the Jiohemian Society of Tine Arts. The field-marshal is repre- sented liolding liis baton in one lirind and a standard in the other. 1 ie stands on a shield borni! by eight soldiers ofditrerentbranchf.'S of the service. 'I'he rigures are all of bronze ; the pedestal is of granite ; the monument is upwards of 30 feet iiigh. it is made of the metal of 100 cannon, taken from the I'iedmontese. On the square called Stephans- plitz is the Church ol St. A'icholas, founded in 1673 l)y the Jesuits, and completed about the end of th(; 18th century. It is tlie largest church in Prague; it has three doors, and is surmounted by a clock tower i?50 feet high. The interior contains a profusion of paintings and statues. The chapels also contain several good pictures. 'Ihe Palace of Count Nostiz, a little south of the end of the bridge, contains an excellent picture-gal- lery, collections of plaster cjists, engravings and medals, and a library. Wallenslein'sPaUice,in the Wald- stein FUitz, is a vast edifice, built in 1623 by Wallenstein, the hero of the Thirty Years' War, and still in the possession of his descendants. It comprises three courts and a large garden. The public are admitted to see the palace for a fee of 35 kr. The great \\ allen- stein kept a body-guard, and an establishment of 40 pages, 4 cham- berlains, 12 chevaliers and barons ; his stables contained 300 horses. He had a representative at \'ienna; his estates in Bohemia, ."\loravia, Friedland, .Mecklenburg, Cilogau and Sairau brought him upwards of £1,000,000 i>er annum. The great Audienre-Chomher, restored in 1854, is adonied with a fresco representing Wallenstein, as an ancient hero, in a triumphal car. The chapel, iind the oratory above it, have been preserved in the same state in which they were left by 1 1 498 Route 119. —VIENNA TO DRESDEN. oermany. Wallenstein. In the garden is a grotto containing- a bath, with a flight of steps leading down to the Cabinet of Astrology. In the same part is the play-room, and the Wuldstein-halle, a oallery adorned with frescoes. The play-room contains the portraits of Wallen- stein and his second wife ; and the horse (stuffed) which was killed under him at the battle of Liitzen. In the garden are also an arcade decorated so as to represent stalac- tites, the aviary, and the riding- school. The gardens are open to the public on Thursdays, Sundays, and fete-days. The other sides of the Waldstein-platz are occupied by the Palaces of Prince Egon Furstenberg, Count Hanusch- Kolowrat, and Prince William Auersperg. Two waj^s lead from the Kleinseitner King to the Hradschin ; the shorter of the two ascends by theSchloss-siegengasse, and then by a flight of 203 steps to the court of the palace ; the other ascends by the Spornergasse, and abuts on the side of the palace. The Hradschiner-platz forms an oblong, 250 feet long by 100 wide. It is bordered on the north by the Archbishop's Palace, and the canon's houses, on the south by the Palace of Prince Schwarzen- berg, on the west by the Tuscan Palace, and on the east by the Imperial Palace, which comprises the Cathedral. The Tuscan Pa- lace was the property of the Em- peror Ferdinand who lived at Prague after his abdication ; it contains his library and art-col- lection. The Cathedral is one of the most remarkable specimens of the Gothic style. (Open from 5 a.m. to 12-30, and from 2 p.m. to 5.) It was commenced in 1344, in the reign of King John. It presents on a smaller scale, the form of the Cologne Cathedral. The western portion is unfinished ; it is closed by a wall adorned, in 1729, by frescoes, now tarnished, represent- ing the patron-saints and Maria- Theresa. Before the fire in 1561, the tower was 506 feet high ; its present height is about 315 feet. This cathedral suffered greatly in the religious wars of the 16th and 17th centuries, but especially in the Seven Years' War, when it was injured by Prussian shells. Under the Emperor Charles IV. it received so many gifts that 380 persons were employed in their manufacture : at this time there were more than 3,000 priests in Prague. The interior is very striking. The ceiling is supported by 16 pillars. The nave is 148 feet wide and 126 feet high ; 12 chapels ranged along its sides bear the names of the great families of Bohemia. In the centi-e is the Konigsdeiikmal (Royal Mauso- leum), of marble and alabaster, executed in 1589, in the reign of Rudolpli II. by Alexander Colin, of Malines ; above are the figures of Ferdinand I. the Empress Anna and Maximilian II.; the reliefs represent Charles IV. with his wives and descendants. In the vaults are the coffins enclosing the remainsof CharlesIV. (died 1378) his two wives, Venceslas IV., Ladislas Posthumus, George Po- diebrad, Ferdinand I. and his wife Anna, Maximilian II., Rudolph II., and Maria Amelia, Duchess of Parma. The Chapel of St. Menzel, opened in 1367, in the reign of Charles IV. is enriched with fine Bohemian stones, and ornamented with very ancient frescoes. It contains the tomb of the saint, slain by his brother Boleslas in 931, at Alt- Bunzlau. It was in this chapel, in 1526, that the Archduke Fer- dinand of Austria was elected King of Bohemia : this kingdom GERMANY. Route no.— VIENNA TO DRESDEN. 499 then fell into the possession of tin; House of Huiistnir;^'. In tlie south aisle on the rij^ht of the altar is the shrine of St. John Ne|)oinuk, an accumulation of silver ornaments and plate, in which no less than 37 cwt. of silver have been employed. The body of the saint is enclosed in a crystal cotHn, en- closed by one of silver, and borne by angels, nearly of the size of life, also of silver. The silver em- ployed about this shrine is esti- mated to be of the value of 200,000 florins. Silver lamps, the gift of great personages, hang above the monument. 1 he treasury of the cathedral contains a tine collection of plate and many relics, among which are a ])ioce of the true cross, thorns from the crown of thorns, &c. cSlC. ihe Hradschin or Lmpkrial Palace, stands on the site of the Wenzelbitig, the ancient palace of the Kings of Bohemia, erected in the 9th century, and burnt down in 1316. The present edifice was commenced in 1333, by CharleslV. after the model of the Louvre at Paris. Ladislas and Ferdinand i. continued the works, which were completed under Maria-Theresa. It was several times besieged and sacked by the Hussites. It is of little interest. The greater part of the treasures once contained in it have been removed to other palaces. I'art is occupied by the presentEmperor Ferdinand, ( uncle of the present Emperor), who ab- dicated in 1848. Many of the apartments are o])en to the public, from 11 to 1 o'clock. Entrance by tiie third court, on the right of the Cathedral: fee, 30 kr. The railing which closes the court of honour is ornamented with groups of gladiators. The principal entrance-gate was built in the Doric style, by Scamozzi, in 1614; the great staircase is very liandsome. The second court is adorned witli a monunn'ntal basin ; in tin- third court, on the terrace adjoining the Cathedral, is a sujierb e(|uestriau bronze statue of St. George, of the 14tii century. Amonj^ the princijjal salons are : 'Ihe TItnme-Utioin, or chamber of Ladislas; the Laiullag'iual, the ancient hall of the High Court of Justice, containing eleven flags taken from the enemy by the Arch- duke Charles, three standards of the kingdom, portrait.s of .Maria Theresa, Josej)li 11., Leopold 11., the Archduke Francis, and the Emperor Francis 1. The aj)art- ments occupied by the Emperor Ferdinand have been decorated anew since the tire of 1855. The Chapel has been splendidly re- stored, 1852-7, it is adornedwitli frescoes by Kandler, and statues by ."\Lix. The Sjitinish Chapel and the German Chapel may be formed into one, capable of containing 2,000 persons; they are lighted by 3,600 candles. The Landstube, on the third floor of the south wing, is the most interesting apartment in tlie Palace: from its window, upwards of 60 ft. from the ground, were precipitated, on tiit; 23rd of iMay, 1618, the impi'rial coun- sellors, Martinitz and Sluwata, and the private secretary Platter; two small pyramids, erected in the fosse, beneath the window, record the fact that the victims of this outrage miraculously escaped with their lives. The apartment is adorned with por- traits of these otiicials, and of fourteen sovereigns of the House of Hapsburg. From this point there is a magnificent view of the cit^. The Church of St. George, in the square of the same name, behind the Cathedral, was founded in 912, by Wratislaw I., on the site of the castle of Lebussa ; it was 500 Route 119.— VIENNA TO DRESDEN. germaky. restored after the fire of 1142. It contains the tombs of V\ ratislaw, the Dukes Eoleslas II. and Odal- ric, and many otliers. At tlie eastern extremity of the hill called the Schlossberg- is the palace of the governor of Bohemia \0bers1burggvafenant). It is a mediaeval building-, surmounted by four towers, and formerly contained the courts ofjustice and tlie prisons. The Sternberg Palace, behind the archbishop's palace, contains the Picture Gallery of the Society of Fine Arts of Bohemia. It is di- vided into 350 sections, each of which is interesting. The public are admitted fi'om 9 to 12 a.m., and from 3 to 6 p.m. Fee, 35 kr. Sundays and holidays free. Tlie Hradschin is bounded on the north by the Hirschgrabeii, ncross which a bridge leads to the gardens. We go by the gardens to the exercise-ground of the artillery, and enter the C/iofeAstrfl,vse, in which is the Belvedere or Fernandeum, the summer residence built by Ferdinand I., in 1534, for his wife Anna, in the style of the Renaissance. The great hall is used for exhibitions of paintings; the Society of Fine Arts have adorned it with frescoes, after the cartoons of Rubens. They repre- sent the bajitism of Boriwoj ; tlie murder of St. Venceslas ; the re- moval of the relics of St. Adal- bert to Prague ; the coronation of W ratislaw, first King of Bohe- mia; the abdication of Ladislas in favour of Przemysl Ottakar I. ; King Venceslas I. as a minstrel ; the foundation of the University of Prague, by Charles IV.; and Joseph II. at Prague, during the plague. From tlie balcony is a fine panoramic view. The garden reaches, on the north east, the Volksgarfen, at tlie eastern extre- mity of which is the Belvedere- H'che, from which another fine view is obtained. From the Kleinseite we go by the square of the Wiilsche-Spilal, to the Lawrenzberg, a wooded hill on which stands the Church of St. Lawrence, surrounded by the fourteen stations of the cross, painted by Fuhrich . Before reach- ing the summit of the hill, we pass the A'^eueJiwar/c/, wherestands the palace of the Count Schonborn, with a beautiful park. In the squareof the Walche-Spital is the palace of Prince Lobkowitz, which has a good picture-gallery, a fine library, and a magnificent garden. Prague has often been exposed to the calamities of war. ' It was besieged and taken six times be- fore 1249. In the war of the Hussites, it was taken, burned, plundered and sacked with a fe- rocity to which the records of re- ligious fanaticism furnish no pa- rallel. The Thirty Years'-War began and ended within its walls. During its progress the city was three times in possession of the enemy. In 1620 the battle was fought at the White Mountain, near the city, in which the Elector Palatine, Frederick V. known as the Winter King, and son-in-law of James I. of England, was de- feated and compelhid to renounce his assumed crown and give up the town. During the Seven Years'-War it fell into tlie hands of different victors, having been comjielled, in 1744, to capitulate to Frederick the Great of Prussia, and until the war of deliverance in Germany and the downfal of Napoleon, the city continued to suffer from the troubles in which the house of Austria had been in- volved. During the last sixty years it has enjoyed prosperity and quiet, except in 1848, when the meeting of the Slavonic Con- gress within its walls called forth a demonstration from the national party, which the government was GERMANY. Route 1 19.— F/E. V.V.I TO DRESDEN. fiOl comjit'Ued to suppress by bom- barcliiin; the city. On leavin;^ Prao^e we cross a viaduct of88 arclit-s, :i,bOO ft. lon;^. Near Buhentscli is tlie liaumgarleii, greatly tVeijucuted by the \'ien- nese in tlu' suiiiincr months. ]\'el(nis. — Thf viUaire is on the left bank of the .Moldau ; on the n<;ht bank is tlie cli;it(;au and the extensive park of Count C'hotek. Raudnitz (298 miles) is pic- tures()uely situated on the Elbe. The castle is the property of Prince Lobkowitz. It contains a library of 45,()()() volumes. The collec- tion of paintinLTS from the time of Charles \'. to the Thirty Years' War is very valuable. Prince Lewis of Haden, a f,^eneral who distinguished himself against the Turks, was married here to a princess of Saxony in 16ti9. The celebrated Cola cli Rienzi, " The Last ot the Tribunes,'' was con- fined in this castle for a year by the Emperor Charles IV^. LoBOsiTZ (310 miles), (Hotel: fliseiihalin), a town of 2,200 inha- bitants, is remarkable as tlie scene of the first battle of the Seven Years' War, in which, on the 1st day of October, 17.5(), the Prus- sians, under the command of Fre- derick the Great and the Duke of Brunswick, defeated the Aus- trians under Marshal ]irown. Opposite Satest rises abruptly from the river a rock resembling the famous Lurlei on the Rhine. On its summit are the extensive ruins of the iichreckensteiii, belonging to Prince Lobkowitz, destroyed by the Hussites in 1-1'26. Aussio (321 miles) was the birthplace of Raphael JNIengs, the celebrated painter. Jiiehanj, a height west of the town, was the scene of the great Hussite battle in 1426. A steamer leaves Aussig twice daily for Dresden, in six to seven hours. The district through which we pass, along the valley of the Elbe, is very beautiful, and is commonly known !is " the Saxon Switzer- land." BoDENBACH (336 miles) is the frontier station, where lug- gage destined to Saxony is ex- amined. Passingsomeother jtlaces of no interest, we reach Duksden (375 miles). (See Route 99.) Route 120. PRAGUE TO NUREMBURG AND RATISBOX, BY PILSEN. To Ratisbon, 158 miles: 1st class, 13 Ji. 62 kr. ; '2nd, 10 Ji. 3 kr. ; 3rd, (iti.SA kr. To Niiremburg, 201 miles: 1st class, 15 ti- 63 kr. ; 2nd, 11 fi. 45 kr. ; 3rd, 7 Ji. 87 kr. : N leaving Prague we l)ass, on the right, the (M'^A 1 1'// i(c //(■//, where ."\iaxi- railian of Bavaria and the Catholic League gained a vic- tory in 1620 over the Protestant forces of Frederick Y. of Bohemia. Near Karlstein we see, on an eminence, the fine Castle, which was built for the Emperor Charles IV., and was, for a long time, a residence of the Kings of Bohemia. It is still in fair preservation. The Donjon Toner is 121 ft. high. The A renzhaprlle fonnerly con- tained the Bohemian regalia. It was secured by four iron doors and no less than thirteen locks. The Church of the Ascension is or- namented with frescoes. In the Chapel of St. Catherine is a fine painting of the Madonna and Child, with kneeling figures of 502 Route 120.— PRAGUE TO NUREMBURG. Germany. the Emperor Charles IV. and his wife. Beraun (23 miles) is a walled town of 2,000 inhabitants, situated on a river of the name. A ear Horowitz {j3 miles) are ex- tensive silver and lead mines. jVear Rokitzan (49 miles), popu- lation, 3,320, are some consider- able iron-stone mines and iron works. From Chrast (6O5 miles) a branch line turns off to the coal- mines of Radnitz. We next reach PiLSEN (67§ miles), (Hotels: Goldener Adier, Kuher von Oester- reich), population, 14,800. The Church of St. Bartholomew, in tlie Gothic style, is attributed to the 14th century. The Ruthhaus is in the style of the Renaissance. The house occupied by Wallenstein immediately before his death, and his arms, are shown. [A diligence goes daily to Carls- bad (46 miles), (Hotels: Zwei Deutsche, Moiiarchen, Anger's, Prinz ion Preussen, Windsor Schlo Hanover), population, about 3,200. It is romantically situated on the River Tepl, near its junction with the Eger. Some of the houses are built, tier above tier, in recesses cut out of ilie rocky and precipitous sides of thr valley. This is one of the most celebrated watering places in Ger- manjr, and its springs are the hot- test in Europe. The temperature varies from 117 degrees to 165 degrees Fahr. The principal and hottest spring" — the Spriidel — has a very large volume, and is forced up to a height of 3 ft. above the ground. Altogether, the daily flow of the springs, of which there are nine, is estimated at two mil- lion gallons. They were known in the 7th century, but were lost sight of till 1347, when, according to a tradition of the country, tliey were rediscovered by Charles IV., whose attention was drawn to the spot, wliile hunting, by the cries of one of the hounds, which had fallen into a hot spring when ])ur- suing a stag. He subsequently establislied regular baths here, to which he gave his name. A monument to this king stands in the market-place. The Tepl is crossed by a granite bridge of one arch. Around the town are some fine promenades, and the scenery is very beautiful. The number of visitors each year is' from 6,000 to 8,000. Balls and concerts are given at the Knr- saiil, where there is a reading- room well supplied with news- papers. Gambling is strictly for- bidden. There is another reading-room and a billiard-room above the baths, called Muhlbrunnen-had. There is also a Theatre. The most convenient route to Carlsbad for travellers from the direction of Frankfort is by Wiirz- burg, Bamberg, Baireuth, and Hof to Eger, from which last- named place diligences go daily to Carlsbad, 28 miles, in 4 hours. Travellers from the north reach Carlsbad most conveniently by way of Leipsic to P^ger, and thence by diligence as above. About four hours' drive from Carlsbad is Marienbad, (Hotels: K lingers,* d'Angleterre), in a val- ley surrounded witli pine-clad hills. It is celebrated for its min- eral waters and mud baths. The waters resemble those of Carlsbad except that they are cooler ; they are efficacious in diseases of the skin. The season extends from May to August. Franzenbad (Hotels: Kaiser von Oesterreich, Post) is a much fre- quented and aristocratic bath, about 3 miles from Eger (see above). It is rapidly growing in GERMANY. Route V20.— PRAGUE TO NUREMBURG. 50,3 popularity, and bids tair to be- come a rival oi' (/arlsbad. Jt lias been called "Carlsbad cooled," on account of" the snnilaritv in the properties of the waters, it has mud baths like iNlarienbad (the rp|)Utation ofwhich is very great). The cost of livmcj is, as yet, re- markably reasonable.] In tiie ni'ij^hijourhood of Staab (84 miles) are extensive coal- fields. 1'a.ssing Fiirth (10b miles), and somestations of no importance, we reach Chum (11'.* mih'S), situ- ated on a branch of the Kegen. In the vicinity are extensive forests, amid which are glass and iron- works. At ScHWANOORF Junction (149 mill's), the line branches to Kiiremburg and Raiisbon. From .Schwandorf .lunction to Niiremburg is 5'2 miles. Time, y^ hours. ( For description of N iiremburg, see Route 111 ). To Ratisbon the distance is 9 miles. ( For description of Ratisbon, see Route 115). Route 121. VIENNA TO TRIESTE AND VENICE. To Trieste, 365 miles ; 1st class, 28 fi. 26 kr. ; '2n(l, njl. 20 kr. ; 3rd, 14 Ji. 13 kr. From Xabresitia J miction to Venice, 1'25 miles; 1st class, 9 fl. 7-2 kr. ; 2nd, 7Ji.<2.9 kr. ; 3rd,^4Ji. 86 kr. (Tourists wishing to book through to \'enice (476 miles direct) without stojiping at Tri- este, change at ^abn-sina .Func- tion (351 J miles ). E.xpress trains have 1st class carriages only.) \ IcavingViennawepass (,'> mill's) the Schon- brunit t'lihce. The first ]>laci; express trains stop at is Hadkn (15} miles), which is reached in less than an hour. The railway lies at a considerable ele- vation, afl'ording fine views of Vienna and numerous %nllas and villages. On the left is seen the column erected in 1,'J4'2, now called the Spiniierin am Kreuz. On the riglit is seen tlie Gloriette in the j)ark of Schiinbrunn. At Voslan tiie best wine of Austria is produced. N ei'stadt (285 miles), {Hotels: Ilirsch, Ungar - Krone'), was the birthplace of Emjieror Frederick IV. and JNIaximdian I. The town was almost completely destroyed by fire in 1834. The parish church contains several tombstones with well -executed reliefs. The ducal castle of the family of Babenburg is now a military aca, aCiothic structure, lias some tine paintings, and a good fresco. In the Monte di FUtd there is a picture of "The Burial of Christ," the last work of Giorgione. The Theatre and Palazzo Publico are handsome buildings. The gardens attached to the \ ilia Manfrini are well laid out, and extensive. At Mestre (471 miles) the line from Padua falls in. We next reach \ enice (476J miles). (See Route 127.) The Austrian Lloyd's steamers leave Trieste for \ enice on Tues- days, Thursdays, and Saturday's, at midnight. Time, 8 hours. Fares, 7 and 5 francs. Steamers also leave V"enice for Trieste on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur- days, at midnight. Route 122. VIENNA TO PESTH. 171 i miles ; Is/ class, 10 (I. 98 kr. ; 2iul, ajl. 'J 1 kr. ; 3rd, ojl. 49 kr. !iWTI;AMERS leave Vi- ji? enna for Pesth every morning during the summer months. The voyage occupi(!S about 13 hours, but the return voyage takes nearly t^nce that time. It would be advisable therefore for tourists who wish to vary the journey logo by steamer to Pesth, and return to X'ienna by rail. Exi)ress fares by steamer are, for the 1st cabin, fl. 13.32; 2nd cabin, fl. 9.99. From Vienna to Gaxzendouf (183 miles), see Route 111). Passing Marcheg,^ ( 304 miles), we cross the Austrian frontier at Neudorf (33 miles), and reach PiitsBURG (-11^ miles), (Hotels: Gr'iiner Haam, liother Ochs, Gol- dene Rose), poi)ulation 46,000. It is situate on the left bank of the Danube. The site of the town is remiu-kably fine, being in the form of a semi-circle. The neigh- bouring hills are clothed with vineyards. It was long the prin- cipal city of Hungary, having been made the cajiital in 1541, when the Turks took possession of Buda ; and even as late as the last {piarter of the 18th century, it was the most beautiful, and the most populous town in the king- dom. The edifices most deserving of notice are the Royal Palace, a building once of great magnifi- cence, but accidentally destroyed by fire in 1811, and not since re- paired; the Landhaus, or Hall of the Diet, in which the chambers of the kingdom meet ; the Cathe- 508 Route 122.— VIENNA TO PESTH. GERMANY. dral, a huge Gothic pile, in which the kings of Hungary were crowned ; the Capuchin Francis- can, and Ursuline Monasteries, each with a handsome church at- tached ; the bishop's palace, the theatre, &c. Presburg is a place of great an- tiquity, and had acquired some importance even before the country was subjugated by the Romans. In after times it became as above- mentioned, the capital of Hun- gary, and retained the honour till the Emperor Joseph II. restored it to Buda. The peace by which Austria ceded Venice to France, and tlie Tyrol to Bavaria, was concluded here in 1805. Leaving Presburg we proceed past several unimportant places to Neuhausel (97 miles), situ- ated on the Neutra, with a popu- lation of about 6,200. (Day train halts here 25 minutes for dinner.) Gran-Nana (124| miles) is situ- ated on the Danube, on the opjio- site side of which is Gran, a steam- boat station. We continue along the left bank of the river to Pesth (171^ miles), {Hotels: KoNiGiN VON England,* Frohner, de I' Europe, Erzlieczng Stephan) , po- pulation, including Buda, 135,000. This is the most populous and important city of Hungary. It lies on the left bank of the Da- nube. Its low situation contrasts strongly with the antique, pic- turesque, and rock-built iJuda, on the other side of tlie river. The two cities are connected by a fine suspension bridge, erected in 1849, the length of which is about 1,500 ft. Pesth is the seat of the chief judicial courts of Hungary. Its Un'weruty is richly endowed ; it is attended by upwards of 2,000 students, and attached to it are a museum, a botanic garden, and a library of 80,000 volumes. Other public buildings are the Nevge- baude, an immense edifice now used as barracks, and as an artil- lery depot; the parish church, a Gothic structure, the Synagogue, the National Miisenm, with a li- brary of 125,000 volumes ; the Theatre capable of holding 3,000 persons, and the Nutimml Casino, which is open to strangers. Near the city is the Rukos Mezo (field of Rakos), a plain where the Diet, the gi-eat national as- sembly of the Magyars, used to be held in the open air, and the deputies, attended by their vast retinue of vassals, sometimes swelled to the number of 100,000 men, who remained encamped in tents during the continuance of the sittings. The Rakos is now famous for its annual horse-races. Buda (called in German Ofen (oven,) either on account of its hot springs, or because of the lime- kilns in the vicinity), hasahighly picturesqueappearance,being built round the Castle-hill in the form of an amphitheatre, in the midst of a distinct covered with vine- yards. Crowning this hill is the citadel. The Royal Palace within the citadel contains, in its chapel, the royal insignia of Hungary. Behind and towering above the Castle-hill, rises the Bloksberg, strongly fortified, and having on its summit an observatory. The fortress is regularly planned, and laid out with numerous handsome edifices and squares ; among other palaces is that of the Viceroy. Buda has various charitable and scientific institutions, and contains in all thirteen churches and a syn- agogue. 7'liere are here some ce- lebrated hot sulphurous springs, used as baths successively by the Romans, the Turks, and those who came after them, down to the pre- sent day. CEUMANy. RoitteV22.— VlEN\ArOPESTIL 509 It is a place of CTeat antiquity, Ferdinand I. King of Bohemia. but its iin|)ortancc dates from iy4(), In I.'jU, it was attain taki'U hy wlit>n till' fortR'SS was erectfd. 8ol_vnian, wiio introdut-fd into it During tlie inroads of the Turks, a f^an-ison of 12,()0i) janizaries; it was re'jardtul as tlie key of and it remained m tht- possession Christendom. It wiis captured by of the Turks until ItitUi, when it Sol vnian the Mas^niticent in 15','6, was captured by the Duke of Lor- but retaken the following year by raine. ITALY. ROUTES. Route Page Rotrte Page 123. Si'SA TO Milan, by 130. Florence to Pisa, by Turin 512 PiSTOJA AND Lucca . 556 124. AnoNA TO Milan . . 522 131. Florenceto Leghorn, 125. Genoa to Milan, by BY Pisa 557 Pavia 522 132. Leghorn to Rome, by 126. Milan to Como . . 527 CiviTA Vecchia . . 561 127. Milan to Venice . . 530 133. Florence to Rome 563 128. Milan to Florence . 544 134. Florence to Siena . 613 129. Florence to Venice, 135. Rome to Naples . . 614 BY Bologna and 136. Naples to Messina . 628 Padua 554 137. Naples to Palermo . 630 >HE territory com- prised under the name of Italy is bounded on the north by France and Switzerland, on the south by the Mediterranean, on the west by France and the Mediterranean, and on the east by the Ionian and Adriatic Seas. The Alp.s, which extend in a curved line from the Gulf of Ge- noa to the head of the Adriatic, form its northern frontier. Tlie Apennines, wliich stretch through the entire length of the Italian peninsula, are the most important among the subsidiary chains of the Al])ine system. Their ave- rage height varies from three to five thousand feet, but in the mid- dle portions of the range, several summits rise to between seven and eight tliousand feet in height. Mount Corno, the highest, attains a height of upwards of 9,500 feet above the level of the sea. In the spaces between the mountains and hills lie valleys remarkable either for their wild romantic beauties or the fertility of their soil. Between the Alps and the northern por- tion of the Apennine chain is the plain of Lombardy, which has a gradual slope towards the head of the Adriatic. The lower part of this plain is nearly a perfect level and tlie most richly cultivated and populous portion of Italy. The other great plains are those of Piedmont, the A^enetian plains, the plain of the Campo Felice, on which stands Vesuvius, the Apu- lian plain, and the long narrow Neapolitan plain of the Basilicata, stretcliing along the Gulf of Ta- rento. A volcanic zone traverses the peninsula from the centre to the soutli, of wliich the most remark- ITAf.Y. ITALY. 511 able active summits are Vesunus near NiipK'S, Etna in Sicily, and 8tromboii in the Lijiari islands. The prini'iiial rivers of" Italy arc the Po, the Adige, the Arno and the Tiber. The mountain lakes of Italy are famed for their beauty. The prin- cipal are Maf,'nglish sijuare miles. At tht! last census, December, 1861, it had a population of 24,273,776. Tiie mineral productions are varied and of great value. Gold and silver occur in the valleys of Sesia and Aosta, and between Reggio and Scilla. Tuscany pos- sesses valuable mines of copper, lead, quicksilver, and a great number of minerals. '1 liere are ricli iron mines in Sessera, Susa, Tuscany, \'ermenagna and Abruzzo- Ultra, and in tlie island of Elba. Beautiful marbles of various hues are found in the Genoese and Tuscan ti-rritories. The staple manufactures are silks, velvets, damasks, ribbons, &c. Corn, olives, iiein]), flax and cotton are largely grown, and tlie sugar-cane is successfully culti- vated in the two Sicilies. The wines of I taly are numerous, but, owing to the defecti vemode of their mauuflicture, are unfit for ex- portation. The most superior oil and olives are furnisln-d l)y Tus- cany, Lucca and \a])les; the oil of Florence and that of Gallipoli and Puglia being unef|ualled for ]iurity and sweetness. The fruits of the two Sicilies are exquisite in flavor, and embrace several tropi- cal species. 310 XEY. Except in the Paj)al States, the currency of Italy is the same as that of Franc, Belgium and Swit- zerland : 100 centimes e(|ual 1 lira (e{[ual to tlu! French franc). The lira equals 9§ pence English, or say 20 cents in United States' monej". The currenc}- of the Papal States, by the law of 1866, is as follows : 20 soldi or 100 ceatessimi equal 1 lira, or 10 pence English, or 20 cents in the money of the United States. The most convenient coins for use in any part of Italy are Na- poleons, wliicli are everywhere current. 512 R^utei^S.—SUSA TO MILAN. Route 123. SUSA TO MILAN, BY TURIN, 124§ miles; 1st class, 22-90 francs ; 2nd, lo-29 francs; 3rd, 11-55 Jrancs. iEAVING Susa, we pass jBi'sso/eHO (5 miles). The scenery becomes very attractive as we approach Condove (13f miles). ]Sot tar distant is the Monte Pir- chiriano, '2,880 ft. above the sea, upon whose summit is a monas- tery called the Sagra di Sun Michele, supposed to have been originally founded in the 10th century. It is fortified by walls, and also hy the precipitous rocks upon which it stands. The in- terior is curious and interesting. At the foot of the mountain is Sunt' Ambro^io (16^ miles). The projecting galleries of the houses give tliem a quaint appeai-ance. The valley of Susa ends near AvigUana (18 miles), and that of the Po commences. In tlie vici- nity are two small lakes, the Lago della Madonna and the Lago di San Bartolommeo. At a little distance from the railway is the church of Su7i Antmiio di Rin- verso, belonging in ancient times to the Knights Hospitallers. Above Rosta (21^ miles), we see RivOLi, a town of above 5,000 inhabitants, with a large un- finished palace, in which Victor Amadeus II. was confined in 1731. The town and neighbour- hood of Rivoli are considered re- markably healthy. At Collegno (27^ miles), we see a Carthusian monastery, with an Ionic fayade, and a chateau belonging to the Provana family, to whom the place gives the title of count. Turin (S.jf miles), (Hotels: Trombetta,* formerly Hotel Fe- der, in the Via Bogino, ue l'Eu- ROPE,* in the PiazzaCastello, oppo- site the Royal Palace, de la Ligu- RiE,* near the station, ) population 200,000. It is beautifully situated in an extensive and fertile plain, surrounded by the Alps, at the confluence of the Dora-Susina wi£h the Po. Towards the south- west and north, it commands mag- nificent views, embracing the whole chain of Alpine heights which bound the plains of Pied- mont. On the east and south-east it is sheltered by a cluster of richly wooded vine-clad hills. Turin is remarkable for the regularity of its streets, which, with few exceptions, intersect each other at right angles. The houses form rows of an architec- ture so symmetrical, that they might be accounted so many pub- lic buildings ; their style is gene- rally heavy, and in indifl'erent taste. The Palace, built by Charles Emmanuel II., and designed by Castellamonte, is a huge struc- ture, with its large courts bounded by open porticos. Its exterior, which is perfectly bare of orna- ment, foi-ms the western portion of the Piazza Castello. The bronze equestrian statue of Castor and Pollux, which decorate the pillars of the gateway, are by bangiorgio. The apartments, to which the vast staircases con- duct, are handsome, and are sumptuously furnished. The library contains 40,000 volumes and many interesting manuscripts. The armory contains many inte- resting objects, among others, the sword carried by Napoleon at Marengo. It was laid out by le ITALY. Route U3.—SUSA TO MILAN. 313 NStre, 80 well known as the designer of the garden of the Tuileries, at Paris, The principal Place is the Piazza Cuntetlo, situated in tJie best (juarter of Turin. It derives its name from the castle, known as the Lady PaUice, or Palazzo Madama, built in the centre, and now used for Government offices. The place is environed with tlie Royal Palace, the theatre, and many other edifices of suitable architecture. It is crossed by the streets of the Dora Grossa and the Po. The Paiv^zzo Madama dates as far back as the commencement of the Ijth century. It was re- paired and enlarged by Amadeus VlII. in 1416, and then formed the residence of the Dukes of Savoy. Philip Juvara added tlie facade in 17'iO. This facade, ad- mirable for the graces of its style and its ornaments, was intended to be reproduced on the other three sides of the edifice. The grand staircase leads to numerous and spacious halls. The original towers on tlie east side are still standing. They formerly served as prisons. The Senate held its sittings liere before the removal of the capital to Florence. In the Piazza in front of tliis palace is a Monument to the Sardinian army, erected in 1859 by the citizens of Milan. It represents a soldier defending a banner. The relief represents King Victor Emmanuel at the head of his army. South of and close by the Piazza Castello is the Piazza Carignano in which are the Palazzo Carignano, where the Italian Chamber of Deputies for- merly held its sessions, and the Palazzo deW Academia detU Scienze, in which are the PicTunE Gal- lery and the museums of natural history and antiquities. The gal- lery contains paintings by the ablest masters of the Italian, Ger- man, Dutch, and Flemish schools. The pictures are arranged in classes, and the collection may challenge comparison with those of the first cities of Italy. It boasts the works of Raphad, Julio Romano, Titian, Guide, Donieni- chino, Ferrari, Bienvenu Garof- falo, Sassoferrato, the " Four Ele- ments," of Albino, landscapes of Claude Lorraine, Poussin, Cana- letto, &c. as well ag fine specimens of Teniers, Paul Potter, Rem- brandt, Wouvermans, \'an Dyck, Van Huysen, Albert Diu-er, The other collections are not especially interesting. The clmrclies of Turin are un- interesting. The Cathedra t,, in the Renaissance style, was built in 1498. The fafade is very hand- some. Tlie Chapel del S. S. Su- dario,is a lofty rotunda, surrounded with columns of black polished marble with gilded capitals and bases. Over the altar of this chapel, in a species of urn, is preserved the handkerchief with which the Saviour wiped his brow whilst caiTving the cross, and which is supposed to bear the imjiress of his face. (Entrance to the chapel before 9 a.m. by permission to be procured from the canon.) There are no less tlian seven handker- chiefs in existence which claim with equal authority to be the genuine San Sudario. One of them is at St. Peter's in Rome, another at Milan, there are three in France, and one at Aix la Chapelle. Upon the southern side of the city is the Giardino Pnhblico, the favourite evening promenade. It contains statues ot Daniel Manin, Balbo, and Generals IJava and Pepe. The Piazza Viltorio F.ma- nuele is one of the finest squares in Europe for size, regularity of K K 514 Route nS.—SUSA TO MILAN. ITALY. architecture, and beauty of situa- tion. Among other squares are the Piazza Carlo Felice, with por- ticoes and a fine garden ; and the Piazza Carlo Alberto, with an equestrian statue of the king of that name by Marochetti. The Superga, a handsome church, (embellished by a portico of eight marble columns, and sur- mounted by a cupola, erected by Victor Amadeus II. to commemo- rate the raising of the famous siege of Turin in 1706, on the very spot from whence PrinceEugene recon- noitred the position of the French army), is about five miles from Turin, on the summit of a hill on the south side of the river. It commands delightful views over the city, the suburbs, the Po, and the surrounding country. In this mausoleum, together with the bones of several other princes of the house of Savoy, re- pose those of Victor Amadeus 11. whose name figures in history with those of Eugeneand Marlborough. It was in a meadow near Carmag- nola that Eugene and the Duke of Savoy met for the first time. Turin is first mentioned in his- tory in tlie time of Hannibal, by whom it was taken and sacked, on his descent into Italy after crossing the Alps. It became a royal colony, 166 b. c. and v/as called Augitita Taiirinorum. On the fall of the Empire, it went to the Lombards, and became the capi- tal of one of the thirty Lombard duchies ; thence it passed suc- cessively to Charlemagne, to tlie Marquises of Susa, and to the Princes of Savoy, who made it the capital of their states. It was taken by the French in 1506, and in 1640, and again reoccupied by them in 1800. In 1815 it was finally restored to the House of Savoy. Leaving Turin we keep along the left bank of the Po, passing Set- timo (44|- miles) and Brandizzo (48f miles). The latter was one of the halting places for pilgrims to Jerusalem in ancient times. Crossing the torrents of Oreo and Malone, which flow into the Po, we reach Chivasso (52 miles), a town of about 8,000 inhabitants, on the left bank of the Po, formerly a place of importance. ■'■ The ChurchofSan Pietro, dating from the 15th century, is adorned with mouldings and statues of terra cotta. The high tower, surmounted by two mulberry trees, is the only remaining por- tion of the ancient palace of the Counts of Montferrat. (A branch line of 21 miles turns off to Ivrea.y Near Livorno {63^ miles) we see Monte Rosa, and on the left we see the peak of Monte Cervin (the Matterhorn). From Santhia (71 f miles) a branch line of 18^ miles turns off to Biella. Crossing the Cavour Canal, which, supplied by the Po, is the means of irrigating a vast extent of country previously suffering greatly for lack of water, we pass San Germano (74^ miles), and reach Vercelli (885 miles), a town of 18,000 inhabitants, and a bishop's see, situated near the left bank of the Sesia. Good views of the Alps may be obtained from the boulevards at the north-west side of the town. The Duomo (Cathedral) was built in the 16th century, in the Italian style. The portico is fine, and is adorned with statues. The interior has been restored, having suffered during the occupation of the town by the French, in the time of the first Empire. The library con- M]l Appletoris European Guide AN MaJbv .<• ^ous . Loudon ITALY. Route 123.— SUSA TO MILAN. 516 tains a e;ood collection of valuable manuscripts. Tiie Chuich nf St. Aiidreu, ert'Cted by tiie munificence of Cardinal Giuala de Jiicchieri, papal le£;ute in P^n^land in tlie reigns orjolin and Henry III., is a mixture of the Gothic and Lom- bard styles. The Hospital was built by the same Cardinal. The Church of San Christofero contains several good fresco«'S and paintings — most of the latter by Gaudenzio Ferrari. The Church of Santa Caterina has a painting by G. PVrrari, of the Marriage of St. Catlierine. In that of San Bernardino is a fresco representing our Saviour being nailed to the Cross. The Cusa Mariano contains a fine fresco by Lanini, representing the I'east of the Gods. Leaving Vercelli we cross the Sesia. 'I he Alps, with Monte Rosa, are full in view. NovARA (97 miles), (Hotels: de' tre Iltf d' Italia), population 16,300. This town is situated on an eminence above the plain of the Terdoppio. The Duomo is in the early Lombard style. St. Joseph's Chapel contains some fine frescoes. In tlie sacristy are paintings representing the Marriage of St. Catherine, by G. Ferrari; the Adoration of the Magi, by Lanini ; and the Last Supper, by Cesare da Sesto or Morosoni. The pavement of the Duomo is of black and white stones, in Mosaic. The Baptistertj is a circular building, supported by Corinthian columns of white marble, in the recesses between which are groups in plaster, representing the scenes oftne Passion. The Basilica of San Gaudenzio, rebuilt in the loth century, is a magnificent building. It contains a line painting by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and some other good pic- tures by various artists. The loftv belfry is very tine. The Church of San Pietro al Rosario has some good paintings. Novara is the scene of the battle fought in 18 19 betwwn the Aus- trians and I'ii-dmontcsc, in which the latter were defeated. Tiiis defeat led to the abdication of Carlo Alberto. Magenta (111 miles) will be remembered by the tourist as the place where, on the 4th of June, 1859, the French overcame the Austrians in one of the greatest battles fought throughout the whole of the campaign that ended in the deliverance of Ix)mbardy from Austrian domination. The railway psisses over part of the field of battle. From Magenta we pass no important place before reaching Milan (1'24J mi]es), (Hotels: de LA Villi:,* Gd. //. de Milan, Ca- vour, Albergo Reate, de la Gran lire- tagna), population, 272,100. This fine city is situated on the River Olona, in the centre of the great plain of Lombard}'. It is almost circular, and is surrounded by walls, which were once flanked by large and massive bastions. These have been removed, and the space occupied by them has been convertea into pleasant walks, shaded by chesnut trees. Milan is one of the most opulent and populous cities of Italy ; its streets are regular, wide, and well paved ; the dwellings are taste- fully built and commodious. The handsome Square of the Piazza d'Armi contains the Arco delta Pace, a triumphal arch, com- menced by Napoleon in 180 1, as the termination of the Simplon route, and finished under the Km- peror Francis in 1830. There are three gateways. The arch is of 516 Route i^3.—SUSA TO MILAN. ITALY. white marble, ornamented with statues and reliefs. On the top is a bronze figure of Peace in a car drawn by four horses, and at each angle are figures of Fame. The other principal Squares are the Piazzas del Duomo and della Scala. The Gallerie Vittorio Etnantiele, connects the Piazza della Duomo with the Piazza della Scala. It . is 220 yards long, 16 yards wide, and 88 ft. high. In the centre is an octagon, surmounted by a cu- pola 17U ft. high. It is richly decorated with frescoes and sculp- tures. There are 24 statues of distinguishedltalians ranged along the sides. The gallery is occupied by handsome shops. Churches. The most interesting object in Milan is the Duomo, or Cathe- DKAL. It is built of white marble, and is one of the most impressive ecclesiastical edifices in the world. Its foundation was laid in 1387, by Galeazzo Visconti, and during its erection, many of the gi'eatest European architects contributed designs for its embellishment. The Milanese have, in progress of time, furnished the means necessary for its construction. But the works went on very slowly till the year 180.5, when they were resumed with great activity, in consequence of a de- cree issued by Napoleon I., and to him it owes the construction of two-thirds of its facade, a con- siderable number of itsstatues, and the almost perfect condition in which it now strikes the eye. The length of the cathedral is 490 ft., its breadth, 298 ft., its interior elevation, under the dome, 258 ft., and its exterior, to the summit of the tower, 400 ft. Its form is that of a Latin cross, divided into five naves, terminated by an octagonal apsis, and supported by fifty-two pillars, the interior being orna- mented with fret-work, carvings, statues, and paintings. It has a fa9ade of white Carrara marble, and the building is adorned by 106 pinnacles and 4,500 statues. The roof is covered with slabs of marble, and above the dome rises an elegant tower, or spire, in the shape of an obelisk. On the highest pinnacle is a colossal figure of the A'irgin, in bronze. The effect of the interior is very fine. The chancel is entirely open, and separated from the nave only by its elevation. In front of the chancel, and almost immediately above the steps, rises the altar, and behind it the choir. There are no chapels. Their absence con- tributes much to the simplicity and unity of the edifice. The pillars are more than 90 ft. in height, and eight in diameter. The three large windows be- hind the choir are remarkable for their size, variety, and beauty. They are filled up with tracery and stained glass, in whose colours ruby and dark-blue predominate. Tlie lantern is a striking combina- tion of grandeur and simplicity. By the light, streaming from this cupola, the tabernacle of the great altar appears with remarkable effect. Under the choir are two subter- ranean chapels. By a spacious gallery, lined with fine marbles, and by a portal ornamented with beautiful columns, having the capitals and bases richly gilt, the visitor enters the vault of St. Charles Borromeo. It is of an octagonal form, and the ceiling is decorated with a succession of silver tablets, representing, in re- lief, the most remarkable events CATHEDRAL AT MILAN. 518 Eon te 123.— S 175.4 TO MILAN. ITALY. of the life of this famed prelate from his baptism at Arona, to his death at the age of forty-six, and his canonization. Above the altar stands the sarcophagus of crystal, containing the remains arrayed in pontifical garments, studded with precious stones. The crosiers and mitre are superb. The sarcophagus is placed on supports of wrought silver, and enriched with the armorial bearings, in massive gold, of Philip IV., king of Spain, whose gift it is. The tomb may be seen at any time by paying a few francs to the sacristan. In order to form a correct idea of the exterior decorations of the cathedral, it is necessary to ascend to its roof, where alone the various fretworks, carvings, and sculptures can be seen to advantage. A staircase leads to the top of the cathedral, and a small fee is charged for the ascent. Upon the roof one is lost in the labyrinth of ornaments, spires, statues, flying buttresses ; pinnacles of Gothic fretwork are piled about in rich confusion. So great is the v ariety o f opinions among writers in relation to the architectural merits of this cathe- dral, that tlie author lias deemed it advisable to quote from several well known writers on the sub- ject. Goethe says of it, — " All the northern church de- corators sought their greatness only in the multiplication of minute details ; few understood how to give to these small forms any mutual relation, and thus rose such monstrous buildings as the Cathedral at Milan, where man has transplanted a marble moun- tain at an immense cost, and forced it into the meanest forms ; even daily they torment the poor stones, to continue a work which can never be perfected, since the inventionless folly that planned it had also the power to give to the design an almost limitless execu- tion'." Forsyth says, — "It has been wonderfully con- trived to bury millions of money in ornaments that are never to be seen. Whole quarries of marble have been manufactured here into statues, relievos, niches and notches, and high sculpture has been squandered on objects which vanish individually in the mass. Were two or three thousand of those statues removed, the rest would regain their due importance, and the fabric itself become more important." Eustace says of it, — " Inferior only to St. Peter's, it equals in length and in breadth surpasses tlie cathedral of Florence and St. Paul's ; in the interior ele- vation it yields to both ; in ex- terior it exceeds both ; in fret- work, carving and statues, it goes bej^ond all the churclies in the world, St. Peter's itself not ex- cepted. Its double aisles, its clus- tered pillars, its lofty arches, the lustre of its walls, its numberless niches, all filled with marble figures, give it an appearance novel in Italy and singularly majestic. Over the dome rises the tower or spire, or rather, obe- lisk, for its singular shape renders it difficult to ascertain its appella- tion, which, whatever may be its intrinsic merit, adds little either to the beauty or magnificence of the structure which it surmounts. It was erected about the middle of the last century contrary to the opinion of the best architects. Though misplaced, its form is not in itself inelegant, wliile its archi- tecture and mechanism are ex- ITALY. Unite 123.— SUS A TO MILAN. 519 tremelv inijenioiis. In ascendinn^ the tniveller will observe that tht; roof is covered with blocks of marble, connected together by a cement that has not only its hard- ness and durability, but its colour, 80 that the eye scarcely perceives the juncture, and the whole roof aui>ears one immense piece of shming white marble. '' The traveller will regret, as he descends, that instead of heap- ing this useless and cumbersome quarry upon the dome, the trustees of the editice did not employ the money expended upon it m erect- ing a front (for that essential part is wanting) corresponding with the style and stateliness of this Buperb temple. Had the western front been built in a style corre- sponding with the other parts, the admirers of CJothic would have possessed one specimen perfect of Its kind." The view from the summit is extensive, including the rich plain of iMilan, the ueiglibouring Alps, and the distant Aj)ennines. Sunt' Ambivgio. This churcli is preceded by a cloister or a quad- rangle of thick columns, with curiously wrought capitals of stone, wlience spring ranges of brick arcades. Tliere are some frescoes of the twelfth century still remaining on the walls, and a great many very ancient sepul- chral effig^ies of bishops andabbots. The interior might be properly compared to a museum ; so great is tlie number of inscriptions, basso-relievos, monuments, and other objects, many of which date their origin from the remotest ages of Ciiristiiinity. This church is said to have been erected on tlie ruins of a temple of IMinerva, though some anti- quarians assert that here formerly stood a temple of Bacchus. The oldest part of the present building is contemporaneous with the age of (Jliarlemagiie. The gates of the western en- trance are said to be of die time of St. Ambrose, a.d. 3S7. The marble pulpit from which the saint used to preach is in the principal aisle, and a brazen ser- pent, standing erect on a column of porphyry, is shown as that which Closes held uji in the desert before the afflicted Israelites. The Milanese believe that this serpent will hiss when the end of the world shall come. One of the chapels contains some fine frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and there are food sculptured groups in others, n the Trihuita are some mosaics of the ninth century. Sunt' Aleffandro is the most riclily adorned of all the churches in ^lilan. There are two marble groups by Marchesi, and some modern stained glass ; one repre- sentation being that of S. Carlo Borromeo visiting those ill of the plague. Han Carlo Borromeo, in the Corse Vittorio Emanuele, was erected in 1847, on the site of the ancient church of St. IMaria de Servi. The form is round, simple in its decorations, and remarkable only for the polished granite columns, several of which are in one piece. The oldest church in Milan is that of Sail Lorenzo, in the Corso di Porta Ticinese. The interior is said to have formed part of a Roman terajde. Its tigure is oc- tagonal, surmounted by a dome. On four of its sides are semi-cir- cular apses of two stories sup- ported by columns. The Chapel of St. Aqiiitinus, on tlie right of this church, contains some ancient mosaics, and the sarcophagus of Atauli)hus, King of the (joths, its founder. He died in 416. Close to this church is the Co- LONNE DI San LoRtNZO, consisting 520 Route 123.— SUSA TO MILAN. ITALY. of sixteen ancient columns of the Corinthian order, and forming the most prominent vestige of Roman JMilan. Earlj historians state that they formed part of a temple of Hercules. Modern an- tiquarians state them to be part of the peristyle of the baths of Her- cules, and that they belong to the third century. Santa Maria della Grazie. This magnificent church was erected towards the end of the fifteenth century. Its dome, the choir, and the side chapels were executed after tlie design of Bramante. The front is built of brick in the Gothic style. The paintings are very numerous. " The Last Supper," by Leo- nardo da Vinci, is in the former refectory of the Dominican Con- vent attached to Santa Alaria. It has suffered much from dampness, injudicious attempts at restoration and other ill usage. " At the time that Milan was in the possession of Napoleon, this convent was converted into barracks, and as the refectory became a stable for the cavalry horses, the already mutilated painting received still further injury. Slany anecdotes are related of Leonardo da Vinci during the progress of his picture. It is said that the head of our Saviour was left unfinished ; the artist, having invested the coun- tenance of the disciple John with a beauty almost divine, shrank from portraying the mingled emo- tions of him whose heart was full of grief, knowing as he did tliat in the band of his beloved disciples there was one who had proved a traitor. The moment chosen by the artist is that in which Christ has just uttered the words, 'One of you shall betray me ! ' To por- tray the vai-ied expression which this appeal would call forth on the countenances of the disciples, was a task requiring all that know- ledge of the hidden sources of feeling which Leonardo possessed ; the astonishment and horror in which all shared would receive from the peculiar temperament of each one its distinctive character: in John intense anguish would prevail, while Peter's impetuous spirit would shine forth in restless indignation ; fear, doubt, inquiry, conscious innocence and self-ac- cusing guilt would all be seen, marking the effect of the Saviour's words. Leonardo said that he had meditated for two whole years how best to portray on a human face the workings of the perfidious heart of Judas; it is believed that he took for his model the prior of the convent, his bitter and mali- cious enemy." The church of Santa Maria di San Celso, near the Porta Lodovica, contains, amongst other paintings, the Baptism of Christ, by Gau- denzio Fen-ari, a Madonna and Child, with John the Baptist and others, by Borgognone, &c. San Maurizio contains some fine fres- coes by Luini. Amongst the palaces may be mentioned the following, the Pa- lazzo Marino, now the Palazzo Municipio, near the Scala, the Palazzo Ciani, the Palazzo Sapo- riti. The Brera, formerly a college belonging to the Jesuits, is one of the most renowned edifices of Milan. Its exterior architecture exhibits a specimen of very simple but solid construction. The quad- rangle of the court is surrounded by a double tier of arcades, Doric supporting Ionic columns. This structure is now appropriated to the use of the Academy of Arts and Sciences. In the exhibition rooms are an elaborate copy (the size of ITALT. Route 123.— aUS A TO MILAN. 521 theoriijinal) from "The Last Sup- per" of Leonardo da Vinci, by Bossi, casts from some of the Elgin marbles, Appiani's monu- ment by Thorwaldscn, and marble statufsby eminent artists. Amoni? the paintino;s are somi; curious frescoes by Luini and G. Ferrari, collected d'uring the French regime from the suppressed monasteries. Among the oil paintings are Do- menichino's "Virgin, Jesus and John," Caravaggio's " St. Sebas- tian," Caracci's " Noli me tan- gere," the " Marriage in Cana," by Paul Veronese, Tintoretto's " St. Hubert," the " Virgin stand- ing on a Serpent and Crescent," by Sassoferrnto, " Paul the Her- mit," by Salvator Rosa, some heads bvTitian, and his admirable " St. Jerome," " St. Peter and Paul," by Guido Reni, the " .Mar- riage of St. Joseidi and the Vir- fin," bv Raphael, the " Dancing ,oves,''* by Albano, and the " Ri- pudio d'Agar," by Guercino. The public library ranks among the ricdiest libraries in Europe, not only for the precious manu- scri])ts which it contains, but also for the choice collection of classi- cal works of all kinds. The Bihlioteca Amhrosiana was founded by Frederick Borromeo and is one of the most celebrati-d in Italy. In it are shown the Rufinus version of Josephus, writ- ten in the fourth century on pa- pyrus ; a frag-ment of a manuscript of the third century, consisting of two heaves of the Iliad, illumi- nated; Pliny's "Natural History," curiously illustrated, with nume- rous paintings on vellum; an il- luminated version of tlie " Buco- lics " and ".Eneid" of Virgil, with Notes by Petrarch ; and some volumes of Leonardo da Vinci's drawings. The Teatro delta Scala (so called from its having be^n built on the site of till' ancient church of Santa Maria della Scala) is the largest Opera House in Italy. The in- terior contains six rows of boxes, each row having from tliirty-six to thirty-nine divisions, all of them richly adorned. The pit is cajjable of accommodating 2,(K)0 ni-rsons. The Osiiedaie Mif^siore {llos\n\a\) is a fine brick building, begun in the 15th century. It has nine courts, the principal of which is surrounded by arcades. The Casile is now a barrack. Near the Piinza d 'Armi, or jiarade ground, is the Arena, an amphi- theatre capable of accommodating 30,000 spectators. On the north- west side of the Piazza d'Armi is the Arco delta Pace (already de- scribed). The Public Garden, near the Porta Venezia, is a much fre- quented promenade. The fashion- able promenade, between 6 and 7 p.m., is in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, beyond the Porta Venezia. Another, called the Kew Public Garden, recently con- structed, extends from the Porta Venezia to the Porta \uova. It is beautifully laid out, with ave- nues, ornamental pieces of water, &c. Opposite the entrance is a bronze statue of Count Cavour, on a granite pedestal. Clio is repre- sented inscribing his name on her tablets. In the vicinity is the Museo Ciiico, to which admission is ob- tained free on Thursday ; on Tues- day, Wednesday and Saturday the charge is 50 c. ; the hours of ad- mission are 11 to 3 o'clock. It contains collections of natural his- tory, etlmology, 6;c. Few monuments of a date ante- rior to the invasion of the Goths now remain. Among these the most considerable and interesting 522 Route nS.—SUSA TO MILAN. ITALY. is the Colonna di St. Lorenzo, de- scribfid above. JVIilan carries on an immense inland trade, and has considerable manufacture of silk goods, ribbons, cutlery, porcelain, and gloves, which last are excellent and cheap. Those of Madame C. Bebtli, No. 21, Gallery Victor Emanuel, are recommended. It is the birth- place of Popes Alexander II., Urban III., Celestine IV., Pius IV. and Gregory XIV., and of Beccaria, Agnesi, and Alessandro Manzoni the novelist. (12 miles), is situated on a bleak and barren height. The govern- ment has, of late years, established a camp here. From this point, ■we descend to Gallarate (17 miles), situated in a very fertile district. Here several lines branch off. Near Legnaiio (16 miles), Frederic Barbaro.ssa was defeated in 1176. Rho (201 miles), is situated near the confluence of the Olonna and Lura. Here the line from Turin to Milan falls in. We pass through a rich expanse of country, abounding in groves of mulberry-trees, pastures, and meadow lands, to Milan (42 miles ) . ( For a description of this city, see Route 123.) EouTE 124. ARONA TO MILAN. 42 miles ; Jirst class, 8'5 francs ; second class, 5'Q5 francs ; third class, 4:'lb francs. E teep by the western shore of the Lago Maggiore as far as Sesto Culende, (5^ miles), on leaving which the rail- way gradually ascends towards the hilly region of La Somma. Huge blocks of detached stone lie about the plain of Ticino, below these heights. During this part of the journey, we have an excellent view of Monte Rosa, and the Alpine range connected with it. The village of Somma stands at the summit of the hills of the same name. There is here a castle, once the residence of the family of Visconti, and a cypress tree, said to have been in existence in the time of Julius Ceesar. Somma Route 125. GENOA TO MILAN BY PAVIA. {Lrpress Trains usually go by Ales- sandria.) 95 miles; Isi class, 17*25 francs; 2nd, 12-25 francs; 3rd, 8-75 francs. From Genoa to Turin, 130 miles ; fares, 1st class, 17'55Jrancs ; 2tid, 12'32 francs; 3rd, Q-Q5f ratios. ENOA (Hotels: dTtalie* (with which the Croce di Malta is joined), Trombetta* ( formerly Feder), de la Ville,* Ghand Hotel de Genes*), popu- lation 144,000. This city, called " La Superba," from its beautiful ITALY. Route 125.— GENOA TO MILAN. 523 situation and thp attractions of its buildiiiijs and strt-ets, is placed between two rivers, the lJisa"fno and the Polcevera, at the head of the Gulf of its name. The aspect of Genoa from the sea is, perliajts, not inferior in beauty to that of any other Italian city. The hills of Cari^nano on the east, and of 8t. Benifjno on tlie west, joined by the intervenino; mountains, form a spli'ndialaces. The UuoMO, or cathedral church of S. Lorenzo. 1 he interior is Teutonic, and composed of alttr- 524 Boute 125.— GENOA TO MILAN. ITALY. nate blocks of black and white marble. It dates chiefly from the eleventh century. The cupola and the choir were built by the archi- tects Alessi and Pennone towards the close of the fourteenth cen- tury. Among the many curiosities contained in this church ar« the ashes of St. John the Baptist, which are carefully preserved in two reliquaries, or urns, of silver gilt, the workmanship of the cele- brated Contucci, in the year 1488. They are paraded through tlie streets of Genoa on Corpus Christi day with much pomp. They were brought from the city of Myrrha, a seaport town in Lycia, in 1097. The Catino, or emerald dish, is also an object of great veneration among the Genoese, who still be- lieve it to 1)6 the same as tliat which held the Paschal Lamb at the Last Supper. It was cap- tured from the Saracens by the brave Guglielmo Embriarco, at the storming of Cesarea in 1101, The Church of the Annun- ciation (Annunziata) is the most magnificent in Genoa. It was originally built in the year 1228, and was dedicated to St. Martha, but afterwards came into the pos- session of the Order of the Con- venturati about 1309, who en- larged and completed it. It owes much of its splendour to tlie liberality of the Lomellini family. The interior is very sumptuous. The nave and aisles are supported by twelve columns of white marble inlaid with red. The vaulting and dome are richly gilded. Over the chief entrance is the " Cena," the masterpiece of Procaccini. The church of Santa Maria di Carignano, on a liill commanding a fine view of the sea, contains some excellent paintings. Op- posite this church is a bridge or viaduct which joins two hills, crossing the street and the houses below. Among other churches of note are : St. Stejano della Porta, a handsome structure, containing a painting of the martyrdom of the titular saint, the joint production of Rafael and Giulio Romano; and Sanf Ambrogio, containing some fine paintings and beautiful internal ciecorations, &c. The altar-piece is by Rubens. Palaces. (The palaces are generally open to strangers from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Hand catalogues of the paintings in each room, in French and Eng- lish, are placed on the tables). The Palazzo BngnoLe Sale, com- monly called the Palazzo Rosso or the Red Palace, from the colour of its fafade, is in the Strada Nuova. It contains, in its beau- tiful apartments, the most valuable collection of paintings in Genoa, including works of nearly all the great masters. The paintings of Van Dyck in this palace, are con- sidered among that master's best works. The Palazzo del Mimicipio, in the Strada Nuova, is now occupied by the city government. It was for- merly the residence of the Queen Dowager of Sardinia. The apart- ments contain a few pictures, three autograph letters of Colum- bus, and a large bronze tablet of n.c. 187, recording the decision of the Roman Commissioners in a dispute which had arisen between the ancient Genoese and their neighbours the Viturii, in relation to the proper boundary of their respective territories. The violin of Paganini, who was a native of ITALYi Route 1^5.— GENOA TO MILAN. 525 Genoa, is preserved in |one of the apartments. Palazzo Serra, in the Strada Nuova, contains some splendid apartments, and a collection of paintings. Palazzo Balbi, in the Rue Halbi, is remarkable for its handsome court with marble columns. It contains an;allery of paintinijs. Palazzo lieule, formerly the Pa- lazzo Durazzo, in the Ku«! Halbi, is an imposing structure from the grandeur of its proportions. It was purchased by Charles Albert in 18-t2 as a Royal residence. Its marble staircases are much ad- mired. Its best paintings have been sent to Turin. Palazzo Pallavicini, in tlie Rue Carlo Felice, contains an excellent collection of paintings. Palazzo del Principe Dorin, near the railway station, the gardens of which overlook the port, was formerly the residence of the great Andrea Doria. It was presented to him in 1322. An inscription in Latin in front of the edifice re- cords, in substance, that ha\nng served as admiral of the fleets of tJie Pope, Charles V., Francis I., and ot Genoa, he prepared this Salace in 1528, as a place of repose uring his old age. Tiie palace still belongs to the elder branch of the Doria family, whose prin- cipal residence is at Rome. \ isi- tors are shown the great entrance hall, a corridor in which are pic- tures of the Uoria family, and a saloon with a fresco on the ceiling representing Jujjiter vanquishing the Titans. Portions of the palace are let in apartments to private iamilies. There are several other palaces and private collections of paint- ings and other works of art, but it would be beyond the limits of this work to particularize them. The Albeugo de' Povebi, be- yond the Porta Carbonara, founded m 156-I-, is a fine building devoted to the Welfare of tlie .poor, of whom 2,200 can be accommodated within its walls. I'rovision is also made lor the out-door relief of others. Girls who marry out of the institution receive a dowry. In the chapel is a Pietuof .Michael Angelo, and a statue of the Virgin by Puget. The OsPED.\LE Di Pammatone, on the promenade of the Acqua- sola, has usually l,OtK) patients and 3,000 orphans : it contains also an Institution for the deaf and dumb. Reyond the i'orta Roniuna is a Hospital for the Imaiie, containing, on an average, 700 patients. There are in Genoa 15 estab- lishments for women, called i'on- servatorie. Some of them are refuges for single women ; others are penitentiaries ; others are schools; otliers again, are asylums for orphan or deserted children. Of the Theatres, the Teatro Caring Felice is the first. It ranks next in size to the r^cala at Milan and the San Carlo at Naples. Genoa has also an Academy op Fine Arts, a Public Library, and an Arsenal. The AcQUAsoi.A, on an emi- nence on the north-eastern side of the city, is the chief promenade. The gardens are beautifully laid out, and military bands frequently perform there. The 1 ilLi de Ae^ri in the neighbourhood, has been added to the promenades. Its grounds are beautifully laid out, and the building itself has been converted into a museum. There are several other public gardens. Near the Railway .Station is a Monument to Columbus, erected in 18(32. At the corners of the square pediment are figures of Religion, Geography, Force, and Wisdom; above is a circular pe- 526 Route nS.— GENOA TO MILAN. ITALYi destal, adorned with prows of ships, surmounted by marble figures representing Columbus and the kneeling figure of America. The pediment is decorated with bas-reliefs of scenes in the life of the great navigator. The Campo Santo, or Public Cemetery, should be visited. It is laid out with terraces, and contains many handsome monu- ments. A fine circular chapel, with doric columns stands in the centre. At the Palazzo Pallavicini tickets may be procured to visit the Villa Pallavicini at Pegli, 7§ miles fi-om Genoa. The gi-ounds are beautifully laid out, and at great expense ; artificial gi'ottoes have been made from masses of stalactites conveyed from distant places, and lakes formed in caverns, through which a passage canonlybemadeinaboat. Several points of view afford magnificent views of Genoa, the sea, and the mountains. One of the gardeners conducts visitors. Steamers leave Genoa every day for all the principal ports of the Mediterranean. Notices of the sailings are posted in all the hotels. A specialty of Genoa is jewel- lery oi' silver tiligree. The largest assortment and the finest designs are at Mossds. His chief magasin is in the Hotel d'ltalie. He has a branch at the Grand Hotel de Genes. Mr. M.'s house is the one most patronized by American and English travellers. It is a fact not generally known, that the Genoese were the first workers of coral. Coral jewellery is still made here on a large scale. Raf- faele Costa ik Sons are the largest manufacturers. They cheerfully exhibit to visitors at their manu- factory, 17, Via Giulia, an enor- mous collection of coral in every stage. They sell at retail at most reasonable prices. Leaving Genoa we presently enter the great tunnel cut through the ridge of the Apennines for a distance of 3,470 yards. On emerg- ing from it we reach Busalla (14 miles), the highest point on the line. Novi(33 miles), (Hotels: I'Eu- ropa, Aqiiila Nera). A consider- able trade in silk is carried on at this place. (Express Trains usually go to Milan by way of Alessandria, the junction of several lines. Excellent buffet. It is 8 miles beyond Novi.) ToRTONA ( 45 miles) is an an- cient town of about 13,000 inha- bitants, near the right bank of the Scrivia. The Dvomo contains an ancient sarcophagus with inscrip- tions in Greek and Latin, and adorned with Christian and Pagan symbols. Voghera (55§ miles), a town of 11,500 inhabitants, near the foot of the sub-Apennine hills. The Church of San Lorenzo is a handsome edifice. Pavia (72§ miles. Hotel : La Croce Bianca), population 30,000. The Castle, once a very fine build- ing, is now a barrack. The Duomo was commenced in the 15th cen- tury. It contains some good paintings and the handsome tomb of St. Augustine. There are several • other churches, some of which are worth seeing. The University is said to owe its foun- dation to Charlemagne, in 774. It contains a good library, a col- lection of coins, and museums of anatomy, pathology, and natural history, The Stubilmento Malaspina con- tains a picture-gallery and a col- lection of curiosities. In the Ma- laspina Palace, adjoining this building, are some specimens of Roman and mediaeval marbles. Certosa (755 uailes). Here is a ITALV. Route 125.— GENOA TO MILAN. 527 mag'nificpnt monasterv, foundt'd in the 14tli century. Tlie Church is beautifullj adorned with frescoes, and contains several tine paint- ings. The celebrated battle of Pavia ('->4th of February, 1525), in which Francis I. was taken prisoner, was foug-ht in tliis neip^hbourliood. There is no place of interest between Certosa and MiLAy(95miles). (Foradescrip- tion of this city see Route 123.) scenerv. Route 126. MILAN TO COMO. 28 miUi; 1st class, 5' 45 francs ; 2nd, 4-00 francs; 3rd, 2'Q5 francs. EAVLVG Milan wepass Sesto (4,} miles), sur- rounded by country houses, amid pleasant and reach Moxza (8 miles). (Hotels: 11 Falcone, V An- gela), population 24,000. The Lambro flows through the town dividing it into two nearly equal parts. The Broletto (^Town-hall) IS a handsome building in the Italian-Gothic style. Adjoining it is a lofty campanile. The Duomo stands on the site of a Temple of St. John the Baptist, erected in 595. The existing structure is of the 14th centurj'. The front of tlie altar is of silver- gilt, inlaid witli enamel and gems. The galleries for the singers, in the nave, are of fine Gothic work- manship, and the woodwork in the choir is worth notice. The Sacristy contains some very curious relics. In a casket forming the centre of the cross over the altar on the right of the choir, is pre- served the celebrated Iron Crown, with wliich tliirty-four Lombard kings have been crowned. It was used at the coronation of Napoleon as King of Italy, in 1805. It consists of a band of gold adorned with j)reciou9 stones; in the interior is a thin strip of iron, said to have been made from oni! of the nails of the true Cross whicli the Empress Helena brought from Palestine. The crown was carried away by the Austrians in 1859, and was re- stored in 1866. The Royal summer palace near IVIonza is a large building, with an extensive and beautiful park. Passing Desio (12^ miles), where are some beautiful gardens belonging to the Villa Varesa, Seregno ( 14^ miles), and Cammigo (18 miles), we reach Cucciago (24J miles). About two miles on the right is the village of Cantu, the church at which has a tall belfry wliich once served as a beacon, fires being lighted upon it. The next station is Camer- LATA (28 miles), the terminus. Omnibuses await the arrival of the train to take passengers on to Como, a distance of about a mile. CoMO {Hotels: Volla, d'ltalia, di Como), population24,000. (Half an hour from Como by omnibus, in a beautiful situation, is the Hotel Villad'Este — Heine d' Angleterre.*) This is a ])lace of considerable com- mercial importance. Itssituation, on the border of the lake of the same name, is very beautiful. The Duomo is a handsome building of marble, commenced in 1396, and completed in 1732. The Gotliic fa9ade is richly ornamented with carvings and bas-reliefs. It has three entrance doors, and a beau- tiful rose window. Theremainder of the structure externally is in the Renaissance style, except the cupola. The doorways and win- Route 126.— MJL^ IV TO COMO. ITALY. dows are profusely adorned with arabesques and pinnacles. The nave and aisles are Italian Gothic, the choir is circular, and is adorned with Corinthian pilasters, surmounted by statues between the windows. There are paint- ings by Luini and Gaudenzio Ferrari. Several of the altars are very handsome. The other pubUc buildings are breadth. Its greatest breadth oc- curs between Menaggio and Va- rena. It is of very irregular figure, consisting of three long narrow arms, one stretching north, ano- ther south by east, and another south by west. Its areais 61 square miles. The lake, at tlie point of Bellaggio, when about three miles wide, is divided, in an acute angle, into two branches. The LAKE OF COMO. the Broletto, or Town-Hall, the Church of St. Abondio, containing the tombs of many of the bishops of Como ; the theatre, a hand- some building; the Liceo Imperiale e Reale, containing a natural his- tory collection, reading-rooms, &c.; the Palazzo Giovio, contain- ing a library, and an antiquarian collection. TheLake OF CoMois about 42 miles in length from north to south, and from one to 4^ miles in wider and larger branch, which is about 18 miles in length, and has no outlet, extends in a south-west- erly direction to the town of Como, and retains tlie name of the Lago- di-Como. The view of the lake from this town is confined to a small circular basin surrounded by high hills, and enlivened by villas; but on doubling the low headland of Cernobbio, a very beautiful reach opens up, in which the mountains rise on each side boldly ITALV. Route 1Q6.— MI LAX TO COMO. 539 from the wntor's edgjf, their ascent covered by a triiih' ])lantation of olives, vines, and chustinit tr trees, and their snininits terininatin!;]^ in peaks of varied form and elevation. The south-east branch, 12 miles in leni;th, is called the Lago-di- Lecco, from thetown of that name, near wiiich it hee^ins c^radually to narrow into the Adda. Owin;.; to the want of an outlet at Como, the waters of that branch are forced to return to the Point of Bel- lao^ijio, and are thus subjected to constant interruj)tion, either in tlieir downward or upward course, by the cross influence of the wind ; so that one side is frequently ex- cessively atjitated, while the other isperfectlycalm. From thiscircum- stance, and from the vast heij^ht of the ])ordering; mountains, the na- vijj^atiou is rendered uncertain and sometimes dant;erous, by the violent swells and scjualls to which it is particularly liable. Steam- boats, however, navitjate the lake from one extremity to the other in fonr or five hours. The depth, according to Eustace, varies from 4() to 600 ft. It deepens rapidly from the edge. In summer the water is hi. It is a gloomy edifice, now the ^jrojierty of the Princess lielgiojoso. Hehind it is the ce- lebrated intermitlant fountain de- scribed by the younger Plinj-. At the angle formed by the branches of Como and Lecco, is IJki.agoio. (Hotels : Grande Urktagne,* Genazzini, ViU niih-s loiii,', and 7 miles broatl in the widest part ; its greatest depth is 1,W0 ft. [From Desenzano an excursion may be made to SolCerino, the scene of the great battle fought between the Austrians and the allied forces of the French and Piedniontese, on the 24tli of June, 185'.>, in which the latter were victorious.] The next station is Pesciiiera (90 miles), a strongly fortified j)lace near the lake. [Steamers in Jive hours to Uiva (llolet: Sole d'Oho* ), at tlie head of the lake ; a charming excursion. Riva is in the Tyrol, and is an Austrian for- tress. The environs ai*e very beau- tiful.] Passing Castel Xuovo, a vil- lage burneil by the Austrians in 1H4C, and Somma Cam])agna, we reach Vkrona (101§ miles), {Hottls: Bakbksi* (Grande C'zara), due Torri, Torre di Ltmdm), j)opula- tion 62,000. It is beautifully situ- ated on the Adige, by which it rs divided into two uneijual jjsrts. It is afortressof thefirst rank, amem- berofthefamousQuadrilateral,and lias always been considered a ])laco of strength since it was surrounded with walls by the Emperor Gal- lienus, a.d. 2()3. It.s modern forti- fications are amongst the most ex- traordinary works of military engineering in Europe. After passing into the hands of the Austrians in 1815, it was greatly strengthmied. The interior of the town is worthy of its situation. The Adige sweeps through it in a bold curve, ami forms a penin- sula, within which the whole of the ancient, and the greater i)art of the modern city, is enclosed. The river is wide and rajiid ; the streets, as in almost all continental towns, are narrow, but long, straight, with houses well-built, and fre(|uentlv presi-nting, in the form of the doors and windows, and in the ornaments of their framework, fine proportions and beautiful workmanshij). This city jwssesses one of the noblestmonumentsof Roman mag- nificence now existing; its A.MIMII- THEATRK, inferior in size, but ei|ual in materials and in solidity to the Coliseum. The external circum- ference, forming the ornamental jtart, was destroyed long ago, with the exception of one piece of wall containing three stories of four arches, rising to the lieight of more than eighty feet. The pilasters and decorations of the outside were Tuscan. Forty-five ranges of seats, risina: from the arena to the top of the second story of outward arches, remain entire, with the numerous uimitoria and their respective staircases and gal- leries of communication. i he whole is formed of blocks of mar- ble, and presents siy:h a mass of compact solidity as might have defied the influence of time, had not its powere been aided by tiie more active operations of bar- barian destruction. The amjjhi- theatre was built, it is supjiosed, between the years 81 and 117". its lesser diameter is 401 feet, that of the arena 146 feet, and the edifice is calculated to have con- tained 22,000 {people. This, as well as many of the other struc- tures of the city, has a handsome appearance, owing to having been built of \'erona marble. Amongst other Roman remains are the Porta dei Borsuri and the ,'lrfi) de' Lroni, both fine sj)ecimens of ancient Roman gateways. The wnlls of the town also presei^"e, in manv parts, traces of their Roman ori- gin. In the Piazza lira are also 532 Route 127. —MILAN TO VENICE. ITALY. the old To\\-r)-]iall, now a barrack, the Teatro Fiiarmonico and the Museo Lapidiirio, the latter con- taining- a good collection of Ro- man statuary, bas-reliefs, &c. The Piazza dei Signori contains the Palazzo del Consiglio, or Hall of Council. It is a handsome build- ing, adorned with bas-reliefs, and statues of distinguished Veronese, of whom the most renowned is Catullus, the poet. There are some other fine palaces in the square, and a campanile about 300 feet higli. In the centre is a statue of Dante. Adjoining the Piazza dei Signori is the Pi- azza delle Erbe, or vegetable-mar- ket, formerly the Forum. A foun- tain stands in the centre, said to have been erected by King Beren- garius in the 10th century. There is also a clock-tower of the 14th century, and a pillar consisting of a single block of marble, on wliich the lion of St. Mark once stood. In this square is the Casa dei Mer- c.iiiti, or Exchange, built in 1301, and the Palazzo JNIaffei, a fine l)uilding in the Italian style of the 17th century. In a churchyard adjoining the church of Santa Maria I'Antica, near the Piazza dei Signori, are the tombs of the Scaligeri, seigniors of Verona. These curious monuments, the perfect preservation of which is so highly creditable, present one of the most attractive sights in Verona. The most striking are those of Mastino II., who died in 1351, and his son, Can Signorio ; that at the corner of the Piazza dei Signori, Mastino ordered to be prejiared during his lifetime for the reception oi' his remains; as, in imitation of his father, did Can Signorio, whose monument was finished in 1375, a year before the death of its princely occupant. The Palazzo Pompei, near the Ponte IVavi, contains a fine Pic- ture Gallery, and a Museum of marbles and other antiquities. The Cathedral is a Gothic build- ing of the 14th century, but tlie fa9ade and choir are of the 12th century. In the porch, which is supported by columns, of which those in front rest on griffins, stand the statues of the renowned paladins, Roland and Oliver. Over one of the altars is an As- sumption, by Titian. Many of the other churches, of which there are forty, contain fine paint- ings, sculptures and monuments. Amongst those best deserving of a visit are Sant' Eufemia, Santa Elena, Sunt' Anastasia, San Ber- nardino, San Fermo Maggiore, Sau Giovanni, San Zenone, Santa Maria in Organo, Santa Maria della Scala, Sun Slefano, SS. Nazaro e Celso, and San Tomaso Canluariense. In a garden on the bank of the Adige, south of the Piazza Bra, is shown a sarcophagus of Verona marble, whicl) is called the Tomb of Juliet. A chink is contrived for the ad- mission of air, a kind of socket for the reception of a torch, and a reserved space in the pai't where lay the head. It is supposed that Juliet died in 1303, in the reign of Barthelemo della Scala, Shake- speare's Escalo. The rival families who owe their fame to the mighty master, were styled the Montecchi and the Cappelletti. The Cap- pelletti Palace is still pointed out in Verona, in the street S. Sabes- tiano. The early history of Verona is involved in obscurity, and there is some difficulty in determining wliether it originality belonged to the Euganei, or the Cenomani. It afterwards fell into the hands of the Romans, and, under the em])ire, became one of the most flourishing cities in the north of Italy. Constantine took it by assault in 312 ; Stilicho defeated ITALY. Route 127.— MILAN TO VENICE. 5:};i the Goths here in 402; Charl.'- ma^ne took jiosscssioii of it, and made it the royal residence of his son, Kiii;^ J'cpin. The .Moiita- "•ues, who were Gliibellines, lived here in jjeriietual and deadlj enmity with the Guelph Cajmlets; and, from the contentions that took place between these families, Shakespeare, drawing upon an mineral sjjrings, known to the Komans. Two miles south of San Honifiic'w (118 miles), is Arcole, where, on the 15th of November 1790, and tiie two fol- lowinjj (hu'S, a jjreat battle took j)lace between the French and Austrians. Passing along the base of the Monti Berici, which rise on the rijrht, we reach I'AUUA. Italian authority, has derived materials for fiis tragedy of " Romeo and Juliet." In 1259 the town received .Alastino della Scala as its ruler. In 1105 tlie city gave itself over to \enice, in order to free itself from its tyrants, who were alternately of tlie Scala, the \'isconti, or the Carrara fami- lies, and has siuceshared the vicis- situdes of the rest of \'enetia. Leaving Verona, we pass Cal- diero (ll'J miles), the ancient Calidarium, where are some ViCENZA (13 ti miles), (Hotels : de la Ville, le Dae Ruote, La Stella d'Oro), population, 36,000. It is situated at the confluence of two small rivers, the liacchiglione and Retrone, which are crossed by eight bridges, one of them, con- sisting of a single arch, being ascribed to Palladio, who con- structed many of the buildings in the town. The Piazza dci Sig- nori is a fine sciuare. Here are two columns erected by the Vene- tians, resembling those in the 534 Route m— MILAN TO VENICE. IT.ALY. Piazza di San Marco at Venice, and a campanile i!70 ft. hio-li. The Basilica, or Palazzo della Eagione, is a fine Gotliic building, witli two tiers of galleries sur- rounding it ; the lower being Doric, the upper Ionic. It is of the sixteenth century ; tlie work of Palladio. Several of the palaces merit attention. Tlie Diiomo is a Gothic struc- ture, built in 1467. It contains some frescoes and paintings. Some of the sittings of the Council of Trent were held here. I'he Church of San Lorenzo contains some interesting monuments. The Churcli of La Saiita Corona has some fine paintings, and richly sculptured tombs. The Theatie, by Palladio, is a fine building. The JMitseiim, in the Palazzo Chkricatif contains a good col- lection of pictures and engravings ; a collection of natural history ; another of coins, sculptures, &c. A long series of arcades leads up to the sanctuary on the Monte Berico, erected in 1420. The church contains some good paint- ings. At the foot of the moun- tain is tlie Rotoiida Capra, or Palladio 's Villa, now almost in ruins. Padua (153 miles), (Hotels: La Stella d'Oro, Aquila d'Oro}, population, 55,000. This is the oldest city in the north of Italy. Its foandation was ascribed by Virgil to Antenor. In 1274 a marble sarcophagus was dis- covered by some workmen while digging tlie foundations of a hos- pital ; it contained a skeleton, holding a sword, which bore an inscription, supposed to identify the tomb as that of Antenor. It was removed to the church of San Lorenzo, since destroyed. It now stands beneath a canopy of brick, in front of the palace of the Deleguzioiie Provincials, near the bridge of San Lorenzo. One of the most interesting buildings of Padua is the Palazzo della Rugione (1172-1219), ex- tending along one side of the market-place. It is said to have been built on the plan of a palace in India, which the architect, an Augustine friar, named Frate Giovanni, had brought over from that country. The great hall is 267 ft. long, 89 wide, and the same in height. The walls are covered with paintings, in 319 compartments. At one end is the monument of Livy, en-oneously supposed to be the Koman histo- rian of that name. In the hall is a large wooden horse in- tended to serve in some public ceremonial. The Public Ar- chives comprise some very ancient and interesting documents. The Pinacoteca, or Picture Gallery, also in this palace, contains several good paintings. In other parts of tlie building are a Museum and the Municipal Library, of 10,000 volumes. The Cathedral deserves no particular mention. The Church of Sunt Antonio, built in the early part of the fourteenth centm-y, has eight cupolas. The western front has three pointed arches, with a niche containing a statue of the saint ; above it is a portico of pointed arches, sur- mounted by a turret. There are two beautiful octaoonal bell- towers. The form ot the church is a Latin cross. It is 280 ft. long, and 138 ft. wide between the ex- tremities of the transepts, and 116 ft. high. In the north tran- sept is the chapel of the saint. It is illuminated day and nigiit with golden lamps and silver candle- sticks and candelabra, and adorned with bas-reliefs. It was com- menced in 1500, and finished in 1553. The Chapel of St. Felix, on the other side of the church, has several good frescoes. On Applotoris Kuropean (iiiidf Book. NICE .\.-» "NVav .i»» - r IV V 11 DVI B II F VI FIV oiv t; V EIII <}■ I. urea . I3sa%»nnarta E III Fill I VI ElV r V F IV K III •.I Sraixi Hit S. SMtm» ih S Zatrnrut i'ttlitwa Ihttnlr II K V 1 IV I V I) VII < IV F.IV ( III B V P \ Vi I V v' i f'm/mur Trruf^ n fi0mrr k //ftw^» /v. r. D II I) r O IV l> IV i> IV ^»0 IN K IN V. Ill I) III l> III l> III r II Tbcafrrn 1 It Timirt UUU f'micr ,-.11, E V fcIV t8 Tfilrif 1 .Ip^U 1. 1\ K III ki-r^ M.illiy A- Sdhs I.Kinloii ITALY. Roule 127.— MILAN TO VEMCE. 533 the left of the altar is a magnifi- cent brony.o candt'labrum. This cliiirch contains several handsome tombs. 'I'lipn' are some tine fres- coes in the cliurch ot' San Giorgio, and good paintini^s in tliat of Santa Giustina, includintj one of the Martyrdom of tlie Saint, by Paul Veronese. Tlie Piazza Vit- torio Emanttele, formerly called the Prato della \'allt>, is a la^^•e oval space surroundfd by statues of dis- tinguislied inhabitants of Padua, and others who studied at its University : amongst other monu- ments are those of Petrarch, Tasso, Galileo, and Gustavus of Sweden. Within the space called the Arena, formerly a Roman amphitheatre, is the beautiful chapel of the An- nunziata, or Santa Maria Della Arena, built in l.>()() by Giotto, and decorated also by him. It is profusely adornt-d with frescoes. The Church of Sun Agostino dei^ti Eremitani, in the vicinity of tlie Arena, also contains several fine frescoes and interesting monu- ments. The Cliurches of Santa Sofia, San Michele, San Gaetano, Santa Maria in Vanzo, and // Car- mine are worth a visit. The Uni- versity was celebrated as early as the thirteenth century — especially as a school of law and medicine. It is still famous for the latter faculty. The Palace of the L'ni- wrsiVi/, called II Ho (the Ox) from the sign, as it is supposed, of the inn which formerly occupied its site, has a very handsome court, adorned with armorial bearings. There is here an anatomical thea- tre, an excellent collection of ob- jects of natural history, and a col- lection of bronzes, ice. Padua has a beautiful Botanic Garden^ the oldest in Europe, and a Public Lihrnry of 100,000 volumes. \'i',NiCE (178 miles), {Hotels : Royal Dameli,*B.\rbesi,* Beau RiVAGE,* d« i'Europe, Kew York), is built upon a cluster of islands in the lagoon ofthe samename, on the north-west fringe of tlie Adriatic Sea. The lagoon is banked otVfrom t he. 'Vdriaticliya long, narrow sand- bank, e.xteniling south-west from the nioutii of tlie Piave to that of the Adige, and divided into a number of islands by narrow sea j)assages, six in number. Formerly tlie chief of these entrances into the lagoon was the Porto di Lido, through which all the great mer- chaiilmen of the republic passed direct into the city, and which is still frenuented by small vessels and by tlie Trieste steamers. The Porto di Malamocco, between the island of the same name on the south, and that of Lido on the north, is now the deepest channel into the lagoon. Inside of this sandbank, and between it and the mainland, which is from three to five miles distant, is the lagoon — a sheet of shallow water, navi- gable for vessels of very light draught, except where channels have been formed naturally by rivers, and artificially maintained. In some parts of this marshy, sea-covered plain, islets have — by the action of currents and other- wise — become consolidated into ground firm enough to be built upon, and fruitful enough to be cultivated; and in the midst of a crowded cluster of such islets, amounting in number to between 70 and 80, the cit}- of Venice is built. The chief of the islands is called Isolu de liialto (Island of the Deep Stream). The islands, in many jilaces only shoals, aflbrd no good foundations for build- ings ; and the city, for the most part, is built upon artificial foun- dations of piles or stone. The (^(i)in/e Grand Canal — the Rialto, a stone struc- ture, and the most famous ; and two iron bridges. Rogers has thus described Venice in his "Italy"— " There is a glorious city in the sea ; The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets. Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt sea- weed Clings to the marble of her palaces. No track of man, no footsteps to and fro. Lead to her gates. The path lies o'er the sea. Invisible; and from the land we went As to a floating city — steering in. And gliding up her streets as in a dieura." The Piazza or Square of St. Mark is the great centre of business and amusement, and the locality most frequently visited by travellers in Venice. It pre- sents a particularly animated ap- pearance in the evening. It is 576 ft. in length, 269ft. in greatest width, and 185 ft. in least width. The east side of this square is occupied by the Cathedral of St. Mark and the Piazzetta, a small piazza which extends to the Lagune. On three sides it is enclosed by imposing structures, which seem to form an immense palace. These were once the resi- dence of the Procurators or highest officers of the Govern- ment; hence the name given to these palaces of Procurati. San Mahco. The first church on the present site was built in 813, and was destroyed by iire in 976. It was rebuilt in 1071, and consecrated before tlie close of the lltli century. It was consider- ably added to in the 14th and 17th centuries. Tliis singular church stands as a monument of the ancient mag- nificence of Venice ; no spot within her limits recalls so for- cibly the time of her greatness. It was erected in honour of St. Mark the evangelist, and as a depository of his bones, which were among the treasures brought from the East. The architecture of the fafade is of the most mixed and extra- ordinary kind; true to no style, no order, nor even to one country, it is, as Forsyth says, "neither Greek, nor Gothic, nor Basilical, nor Saracenic, but a fortuitous jumble of all." The roof is covered with small cupolas like mosques, and rows of arches are piled one above another, without use, and certainly without beauty. Nevertheless the whole presents such magnificence, and recalls so many thoughts of past grandeur, that even the critic whose know- ledge may give him a right to severity in judgment, must stand in wonder and even admiration before the church of St. Mark. The four bronze horses, which stand outside tlie portico, are as celebrated for their adventures as for tlieir beauty. They are sup- posed to be the work of Lysip- pus, a Corinthian artist ; and are said to have been jireeented to Nero, who caused them to be ITALY. Route 127.— MILAN TO VENICE, 537 baniessed to the Chariot of the Sun, which surmounted his trium- jthul arch in Home. Tliey were removfd hy C'onstantine to his new Ciipitiil, and at the conquest of Constantinople hy the Cru- saders, they fbrmi'd part of the valuable spoil which fell to the share of the ^'enetians. When Venice was taken by Buonaparte, the splendid vestibule, where two blocks of red marble mark the Bpoc rendered famous by the in- terview between Fn-derick Har- barossa and I'ope Alexander 111. on the iiord of J uly, 1 177 , at which a reconciliation took place be- tween them. It is stated by some ■writers that Frederick prostrated himself before the Pope, who VENICE. these horses were among the many works of art which were conveyed to Paris ; but at the peace of 1814 they were restored to Venice. They were the sub- ject of the famous threat uttered Dv Paganino Uoria, tlie Genoese admiral, who, when sued to grant peace to the exhausted Venetians, exclaimed, " Peace ! yes, when I have put a bit in the mouth of St. INIark b steeds." We enter the church through placed his foot upon his neck, but this statement is discredited. Rogers thus speaks of this scene — " In that temple porch (The brass is gone, the porphjTy re- muius) Bid Burbarussa fling his mnntle off, And, kneeling, on his neck receive the foot Of the prond Pontiff; thas, at last con- suled, For flight, disguise, and many an aguish shake On his stone pillow." 538 Route 127. —MILAN TO VENICE. ITALY. The first view of the interior of the church is imposing ; the gor- geousness of the marbles and mosaics, wliich would otherwise be too dazzling, is softened into solemnity by the little light that is admitted. The effect is very fine. The ceiling is almost en- tirely composed of mosaic, the ground of which being gold, gives an inconceivable splendour to the edifice. The floor, also of mosaic in marble, bears the cha- racter of great antiquity, while the columns of porphyry and marbles of every colour — of bronze, alabaster, verde antique, and ser- pentine — rise in profusion around. The form of the church is a Greek cross. The high altar is orna- mented with the richest and most precious stones, jaspers, and marbles. Opposite St. Mark's, on the south-west, is the Campanile. It was commenced in the tenth cen- tury, and was not completed until after the lapse of 240 years. It is 30-1 ft. in height. A stairway leads to the summit, from which a fine view may be enjoyed. The bronze doors of the vestibule, or Log^etta, are worthy of inspection. This chamber was formerly the waiting-room of the procurators, who, during the sessions of the great Council, commanded the guards. It is now used for auc- tions and lottery drawings. On the right, on coming out of the Cathedral, is the Torre dell' Orologio, with a large clock, and two bronze figures which strike the hours upon the bell. One of the curious sights of Venice is the flocking of the pigeons to the Piazza, to be fed, when the hour of two is struck by the figures upon this tower. In the Piazetta, close to the landing place, are two lofty red granite columns, which have stood for many centuries trophies of Venetian conquest, having been brought from the east by Do- menico Micheli in 1125. The fol- lowing anecdote is related of their erection, which took place some years after on the spot they now occupy. The architect being pro- mised any reward for rearing these pillars, he demanded that games of chance, which had been prohibited in Venice, should be allowed to be played between these columns. Tlie senate was bound to comply with his request ; but, to counteract in some measure the effect of the permission, they appointed that all public execu- tions should take place on this spot, which thus was rendered a place of abhorrence. One of these columns is surmounted by the winged lion of St. Mark, and the other by St. Theodore, an early patron of the city. The Palace of the Doges (open daily from 9 to 4), was originally founded in 800. It has, since that date, been five times destroyed, and as often rebuilt in a style of greater magnificence. The west side, facing the Pia- zetta, is 230 ft. in length, the south side 220 ft. in length. The present edifice, which is in the Moorish - Gothic style, dates from the 14th century. On the west and south sides the palace is flanked by two colonnades of 107 columns, one above the other. The mouldings of the upper colon- nade are exceedingly rich. From between the two red marble co- lumns in this colonnade (the 9th andl 0th from tile principal portal ) , sentences of death were read dur- ing the time of the Republic. Entering the palace we find ourselves in the spacious court around which the edifice is built. In the centre of the court are two cistern openings in bronze. Op- ITALY. Route m.— MILAN TO VENICE. 539 jiosite tilt' Giant's Staircase are statues of Adaiii and Eve. Asci'iulinij tlif Giant's Stair- case', so calli-il tVoni tlio colossal statues of Mars and Neptune at tiie head, we enter the apart- ments. We first enter an ante-chamber tilled with books, which leads to the readinjj-room and the librari- an's apartments, where the valu- able collection of manuscripts is kept. From the anti-chamber we enter the Hala del Mai;^ior Con- si^lio, now the library of San Marco. It is a matjniticent hall, 154 ft. long, 75 ft. broad, and 45 ft. hit;ij. Every part shows the former splendour of \'enice. The ceilini^ is riclily gilt and the walls are liung witli pictures by the great \'enetian masters. The principal events in Venetian his- tory are given in a series of large panilings; one, by Paul \'ero- nese, rejiresents the triumphal re- turn of Andrea Contarini after a victory gained over the Genoese; and the subji^ct of another is the conquest of Constantinople by Enrico Dandolo. In the Apo- theosis of N'enice, by Paul \'ero- nese, the Re]>ublic is personified by a noble female figure seated in the heavens, surrounded by saints and angels; and in other allego- rical pictures she is portrayed as a ([ueen receiving the homage of conquered nations, and breaking the chains of captive slaves ; or, seated between Justice and Peace, attended by the X'irtues, she is crowned by Victory. Around the cornice of this room areportraitsof seventy-two Doges — many by Titian, Tintoretto, and other famous artists. The line is broken in one place, where, instead of a picture, hangs a black cur- tain, on which are inscribed the words, "Ilic locus est Marini Faletridecapitati pro criminibus." The next room is tlie Hall of Srruthtif, in which were held the elections of the 41 nobles, who at'terwanls nominated tlit; Doge. In this hall is I'ahno tiiovanes' painting of the " I>ast Judgment." Ui'tuniing to the vestibule we enter the Archuolni^icitl Museum, occupying the apartments of the Doges. Here are ancient sculp- tures in marble. Ascending to the upper story we enter the Sala delta Jiussola, formerU" the anti-ciiamber of the Inipiisitors. By the entrance is an o[)ening in the wall, formerly decorated by a lion's head, into the mouth of which secret denun- ciations were thrown. The next room is the ■SuUt del Coti.si<;lio dei Deici. Among other paintings are portraits of an old man seated near a beautiful woman, by Paul Veronese. Next is the Suta delle Quatro Porte, so called from its doors, designed by Palladio. A- mong other paintings in this room is tliatof the Doge Ant. Grimini kneeling before Vaith, by Titian. The Sala del Senato contains, among other pictures, two by Tintoretto. The remaining rooms are the Sala del Collegi(>, and Sala Anticollegio, in both of which are paintings by Paul Veronese. From the landing-place at the entrance to the apartments, a stairway leads to the famous Sotto Piomho, at the top of the palace, or " under theleails." They were formerly used as prisons. The prisons, or Pozzi, in the lower stories, are siiown. They have not been used since the be- ginning of the 17th century. On the east side the palace of the Doges is connected with the Carceri, or prisons, by the lofty Uridine of Sighs (Ponte dei Sos- piri ). Tae interior is divided into a double passage-way. Prisoners were conducted across this bridge to hear their senteuces; heuce tbe name. 540 Route m.— MILAN TO VENICE. ITALY. On the south side of San Marco are two short square columns, with inscriptions in Coptic, brought to Venice from Ptolemais in 1236. Tliey belonged to a church de- stroyed by the Venetians. From the Pietra del Bandn, at the corner of the church, a short block of porphyry, the laws of tlie republic were proclaimed to the people. The Arsenal. (Open daily, from 9 to 1.) There is no spot in Venice more intimately connected with the times of her power and grandeur. Here were constructed the galleys so celebrated for their strength and lightness, and here kept in constant readiness for war, with magazines of arms. It was like a city surrounded by walls and towers, governed by its own magistrates : three nobles were appointed to regulate the internal arrangements and watch over the safety of the arsenal ; it was con- sidered one of the most important elements of the power of the Re- public, and was guarded with a jealous care. Not only were all tlie stores required in war pre- served here, but every thing was manufactured witliin its walls. Before the principal gate, as if to guard it, stand four lions, spoils taken from conquered nations. One was brought from Corinth, another from the Pirseus, and a third has " Attica" inscribed on it. In the ancient armoury are many Turkish banners, standards with horses' tails floating from them, and arms of every descrip- tion, taken from the Turks in the famous battle of Lepanto, in 1568 ; also the helmet of Attila and many curious specimens of ancient ar- mour. The extensive wharves and workshops are now deserted. The Austrians carried off a portion of the contents of the armoury in 1866. The Accademia delle Belle Arti occupies the suppressed Scuola della Carita, on the Grand Canal, near the southern extremity of the iron bridge. Open on week days from 9 to 3, on festivals from 11 to 2. A small fee is expected by the custodian at the door. The most celebrated paintings are the " Assumption," and " St. John in the Desert," by Titian. The last picture of this great master, on which he was engaged at the time of his death, the " En- tombment," is in the same hall with the " Assumption." Titian died at the age of 99 years. The paintings in the gallery are almost exclusively the works of Venetian masters. Mr. Genovesi, of the Hotel Danieli, has, at a house near the hotel, a collection of over 300 choice ancient and modern paintings, some of which he offers for sale. The gallerj' is open to visitors. Among the many other edifices deserving of notice, either for their architecture or the historical as- sociations connected with them, are the lofty and venerable Gothic cliurch of Santa-Maria Gloriusu- de-Frari, built in the 13th cen- tury, filled with magnificent monu- ments, among whicli the gorgeous mai-ble structure which now marks the grave of Titian is one of the most remarkable, and adorned with paintings by Titian and Tin- toretto; the majestic church of San'Ciiovanni-e-Paolo, "the West- minster Abbey of Venice," re- markable for its fine painted glass, and the tombs and monuments of its numerous doges ; the church of La-Madonim-dell'-Orio, once the richest in Venice, but in a dilapi- dated state; the church of San- Pietro-di-Castello, v:ith a fine cam- panile, and some good paintings and mosaics; the church of .S'a»- Francesco-della-Vigiiu, on a mag- ITALY. Route 127.— MILAN TO VENICE. 5tl nificent jil;in, hut only partly tinislied; tlie church of the Jesuits, in the thoatrical and luxurious style not uncommon in churches of this order; the church of 11- Sanlissimo-liedentore, built as a votive offering after tlie stayinfj of the plasi^iie in 1576, and re^^arded as the finest of Palladio's struc- tures ; the church of Huiita-Mdiid- deltti-Sitliite, another votive ofi'er- ins;, erected in 1(532, after the cessation of a still ^(reater pluijue, particularly distinguislied by the boldness of its princijjal cujjola, and decorated witliin with many admirable works of art. Starting; from the landincj-place of St. ^lark, at the east extre- mity of the Grand Canal, and proceeding west, a great number of PALAcrs are passed. In former times, tht>se palaces, or the mag- nificent buildings which occupied the same sites, were the ware- houses and places of business of the great merchant princes, most of whom possessed mansions in the sul)url)S, ). e., on some neigh- bouring island, wliieh afforded more privacy tiian could be found in the city itself. A few of these are worthy of mention. Among them are, on the right, P. Treves, contains Canova's sta- tues of Hector and Ajax ; the P. Corner della Ca Grande, a mag- nificent structure by Sansovino, lo;>'2; on the left, tlie P. .Alan- zoni, remarkable for its beautiful design, and considered by many the finest on the Grand Canal ; on the right, the P. Giustinian- Lolin ; on the left, the P. Kezzo- nico, a large and stately edifice of the 17th century; on the right, the P. Morolin, formerly belong- ing to the family of f.in. ( After tlie extinction of that family it came to the hands of the ^loro family, which gave one Uoge to the Republic, Christoforo Moro, by some su]>posed to be the same who wooed lJes//(/ Fenice, is the largest in Venice, and is capable of accommodating 3,000 persons. There are five other theatres in the city. Photographs. — The best collec- tion is at the shop of Carlo Ponti, Piazza San JMarco. JMr, P. is the inventor of the celebrated Mega- lethoscope, great numbers ofwhich he sends to America and England. He has recently invented also im- proved spectacles (isoperiscopic), a great boon to persons suffering from impaired vision. English and American bankers, S. & A. Blumenthal. The ancient republic of Venice was founded when the Visi-Goths and Huns under Attila, in 452 and the Longobards, in 568, in- vaded the Roman empire, and particularly the upper part of Italy, which, even in the time of the Romans, was called ^ enetia. JNIany of the ancient inliabitants ofth is district retired to tlie islands in the lagoons of the Adriatic, especially that of Rialto, where they founded a small democratic republic, governed by ten tribunes. In 697, they elected their first doge (dux) Paolucci Anafesto. To the doge was intrusted the executive power ; the people re- tained the legislative power in their own hands; the juridical autliority was reposed in the tri- bunes and nobility. The first seat of the government was Traclea. It was afterwards re- moved to Malamocco ; and in 737, to Rialto, where a populous city quickly rose out of the sea, and became the far-famed Venice. Great commercial privileges were granted to the young republic by Rome and Constantinople ; and her wealthy sons, no longer satis- fied with the possession of the islands of the lagoons, extended their conquest into Italy and Dal- matia. In the wars with the Arabs in the ninth century, the Venetians became expert sailors. In 997, the towns of Dalmatia placed themselves under the pro- tection of Venice. The wealtli and power of the republic in- creased during the crusades, and Venice became the richest and most powerful city of Lombardy : " Her daughters had their dowers From spoils of nations, and the ex- haustless East Pour'd iu her lap all gems in sparkling showerB." But the aristocracy had begun to encroach upon the rights of the people, and the Doge to extend his power ; and several revolts took place. In 1172 the Doge, Vitali Michieli, was assassinated, and the constitution modified ; the arbi- trary power of the Doge was now limited, and the supreme power given to a numerous assembly of the nobility. Tlie commercial power of the republic reached its greatest height under the Doge Enrico Dandolo, who, in the cru- sade of 1202, undertaken by the A^enetians and French, conquered Constantinople at the head of the Venetian fleet, and secured the ]50ssession of Candia, and several islands of the Archipelago and the Ionian Sea. After tlie re-establish- ment of the Bj-zantine Empire in 1261, the commercial road to India was transferred from Con- stantinople to Alexandria, and the n.ALY. Roulein.—MILAX TO VENICE. 543 Genoese gained great advantages over the Venetians. Still more important in its consequences was tlie decisive revolution by which the Doge, Gradenieojo, in 1'297, consolidated an heretlitary aristo- cracy, admitting only a lixed number of noble families to a share in the government. It was at this period that tlie horrible 1421, Brescia, Bergamo, and Cre- mona in ll'.'b, and tiie islands of Zante and (Jejihalonia in 14b3, were incorporated witii the Vene- tian territory, and in 148<), after the death ot'jacob, the last King of Cyprus, his wife Catherine Cornaro, a \'enetian lady, ceded this beautiful country to the Ke- public. THE GRAND CA.N.ll,. council of " The Ten," as it was called, was established. In spite, however, of the abuses and tyran- nies of a haughty and all-power- ful aristocracy, the possessions of Venice on the continent were gradually enlarged, and her rival, Genoa, "was humbled, after a Struggle of 130 years for the su- premacy in Lombardy. \'icenza, Xerona, Bassano, Feltre, Belluno, and I'adua, in 110.', Truili in The power of Venice had now reached its acme ; henceforward it began to decline. The Portu- guese, in 1498, discovered the way by sea to the East Indies, and the Venetians lost their com- merce with that country by Alex- andria. The Osmanli, wiio had become masters of Constantinople, gradually wrested from the \'ene- tians all their possessions in the Archipelago, and in the Morea, 544 Route 127.— MILAN TO VENICE. ITALY. and also Albania and Negroponte; and tliouyh the danger threatened the Republic by the league of Cambray, in 1508, was averted by skilful negotiations, its power had been gi-eatly crippled by that war. The Osmanli took Cyprus in 1571, and Candia in 1669. The Morea was reconquered in 1('87, but was again given up at the peace of Passarowitz in 1718 ; the Republic, however, preserved Corfu and Dalmatia. From this period Venice ceased Co take any part in the great affairs of Europe. By the peace of Campo-Formio, the whole ter- ritory on one side of the Adige, with Dalmatia and Cattaro, was given to Austria ; that on the other side was incorporated with the Cisalpine Republic, which, in 1805, obtained also Austrian Venice and Dalmatia, but without the Ionian Islands. In 1814, Venice and its territories were joined to the Lombard-Venetian Kingdom, of which they conti- nued to form a part until 1866, when, in consequence of the mis- fortunes of Austria in her wars with Prussia and Italy, the city and province were ceded to Na- poleon III., under whose auspices they were united to tlie Kingdom of Italy by a plebiscitum. nee. KOTJTE 128. MILAN TO FLORENCE. 217 miles ; 1st class, 37*30 francs ; 2nd, SO-25 francs; 3rd, 22-35 fra 72 cs. ^FTER leaving Milan we pass through a low marshy district, planted chiefly with maize and Passing Melegnano and Tavazzano, we reach LoDi (20i miles), (Hotels: II Sole, l''Europa, I Tre Ri), popula- tion about 20,000, It is situated on the Adda, in the midst of a very fertile country. I'he place is celebrated as the scene of tlie storming of the bridge over the Adda by Napoleon, on the 10th May, 1796. The Dttomo is a handsome building, in the Lom- bard style. The columns of tlie porch rest upon griffins. The walls near the high altar are adorned with good paintings. There is a tine bas-relief of tlie Last Supper. The Church of the Inccronata, in the style of the Renaissance, dates from the 15th century. It is octagonal in form, and contains some hne paintings. The surrounding district is famed for the production of the cheeses called Parmesan. Passing some unimportant places, we reach PiACENZA (43 miles), (Hotels: VEurojm, d Italia), population about33,000. The Piazza de' Ca- i'a//j contains the bronze equesti'ian ITALY. Route iQQ.— MILAN TO FLORESCE. 5J5 statups of Alcssandro and Ranuc- cio FarneSf, members ot" one of tlie great rulinj; families of Italy. The Duoino, sitiiatecl in a street leading out of this square, is in the Lombard stjle, and was built in the early part of the I'Jth cen- tury. The ])orticoes are very hand- some. The Cainpanili' is a square brick tower, about ?0U ft. high. The interior of the church is adorned with statues, wood-carv- ings, bas-reliefs, frescoes, and paintings. The ciiurches of Santa Maria delta Campagna, San Sisto, and Sunt' Antonino contain good jjaiut- ings. I'he Palazzo Farnese, in the northern ([uarter of the town, once a beautiful building, is now a barrack. The Palazzo del 7 ri- humili has a beautiful facade of brick, the windows and cornices of whicli are in U^rra cotta, Piacenza contains some good private collections of paintings. Among the numerous charitable institutions of the jjlace are the Insliliilo Gazzota, and the Lhpedale Grande. Leaving Piacenzji, we reach Bori^o san Donino (65 miles). '1 he Duomo is riclily adorned with media; val sculptures. Parma (78^ miles), {Hotels: delta Croce, de la Paste ) is a town of 47',000 inhabitants, and was formerly a Roman colony. In the miiUlle ages it w:is the seat of the Guelphs. It is situated on the river of its name. The Duomo is a handsome structure in the Lombard style ; the jwin- cipal entrance on the fa^-ade is adorned with figures of lions in red marble, one holding down a bull, the other a serpent, and with allegorical sculptures and inscriptions. The interior is de- corated with numerous frescoes and with some good paintings. The subterranean church, beneath theUuomo.issupported by twenty- eight marble columns. It con- tains some good sculptures and frescoes. The Baptiilery is of grey and red msirble, ornamented witli tiers of columns and riclily sculp- tured portals. The vault has twenty-four windows, the walls between them being covered with paintings in good preservation. The stalls are tinely inlaid. I he Convent L'lturcli of' San Giovanni Evangeli^ta contains some good frescoes by Correggio and others. The churches of the Madonna delta Steccata and .S'(/;i Lodovico are adorned with scul[>tiiri-s and fres- coes. I he Faiue.'ie Palace con- tains the Academii of Fine Artf, consisting chiefly ot the gallery of paintings, (iOO in number, among which are works of Ra- phas of the art. The Duonio was begun at the end of the thirteenth century by Ar- nolfo di Lapo, was continued by other successive architects and completed in the fifteenth century. hang the dome of the Pantlieon in the air, but it was this work of lirunelleschi that gave him the assurance of executing his bojist. 'I'he statues which adorn this church are most of them tlie works of the most eminent sculptors, and some of the pictun-s are of the first chiss of excellence. Among the most remarkable are the statue of I5runelleschi, and tliose on the altar, the productions of Bandi- 550 Ttotite m.— MILAN TO FLORENCE. ITALY. nelli and Michael Angelo. Of the paintings, those in the interior of the dome by Zuccheri and Vasari, and the portraits of Dante and Giotto, are most worthy of attention. Close to the front of the Cathe- dral, but totally detached from it, rises the Citwpanile or belfry, a light, airy, and graceful tower, 275 ft. high, coated with variegated marble, and adorned with many highly-finished statues. It was designed by Giotto, and com- menced in 1334. It was this tower that Charles V. pronounced so beautiful as to deserve to be enclosed in a glass case. Oppo- site the principal entrance of the Cathedral stands the Baptistery, an octangular edifice, of great beauty. A number of granite pillars support its dome, and fine mosaics shed a rich colouring over it; the walls are lined, and the pavement is inlaid with marble. It is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and all its ornaments have a reference to the Sacrament of Baptism. It is the Baptistery of the whole city of Florence. Its three great bronze doors are cele- brated for their beauty ; the figures represent several great scriptural events. The centre one, by Ghi- berti, was declared by JNiichael Angelo worthy to be the portal of Paradise. Dante mentions this Baptistery in his "Inferno" as " St. John's fair dome, of me be- loved." Before the principal gate of the Baptistery are two columns of porphyry, on which was for- merly suspended tlie immense chain witli wliich tlie Pisans, in 1406, attempted to close up their harbour against the Florentines and Genoese, and which was after- wards brought to Florence as a trophy of victory. It has been restored to Pisa, and is now in the Campo Santo. The next, and indeed the only other church which deserves par- ticular description, is that of San Lorenzo, in the north part of tlie city, upon the Piazza San Lorenzo. This also was planned by Brunel- leschi, but is, both in design and magnificence, inferior to the Duomo. It has, however, attained to high celebrity from two build- ings attached to it, the New Sacristy and the Medicean Chapel. The first was one of the earliest works of Michael Angelo, and is decorated with seven statues by the same artist ; and although most of them are unfinished, yet the eye of the connoisseur will easily discern in them the genius and boldness of design which so eminently characterize the pro- ductions of that great master. It contains the mausoleum of Guliano de' Medici, Duke of Nemours, brother of Pope Leo X ., and younger son of Lorenzo il Magnifico, who died in 1516. Above is the figure of the Duke in a sitting posture ; over his tomb are the statues of Day and Night, the master-pieces of Michael Angelo. Opposite is the statue of Lorenzo de Medici, Duke of U rhino, represented in profound meditation, hence termed, " 11 pensiero ;" beneath it is his tomb, with statues of Twilight and Dawn, also by Michael Angelo. Opposite the altar, is a Madonna, by Michael Angelo, and a statue of St. Cosmo. The Chapel of the Medicis (open from 8 to 12; fee, 50 c), is an octagon, covered in the interior with lapis lazuli, agate, jasper, and other precious stones, with the arms of the Tuscan towns, in mosaic, and those of the Medici family. It contains the sarco- phagi of Duke Ferdinand II. , Cosimo II., Ferdinand I., Fraii- ceico I., and Cosimo III. Iliis noulel^S.—MILAX TO FLOREXCE. 3.>1 chapel is said to have cost twenty-two millions of lire, or £iH)(),'()0O. '1 he church of .S". Croce, the Westminster Ahhey of Florence, contains, amon^ other interesting- tomhs, those ot Michael Angelo- IJuonarotti, Galileo, Machiavelli, Alfieri, and Dante. The cluircli of Santa Maria Xo- vella was beijun in li!79, and Avas so much admired by Michael Angelo, that he commonly called it his sposa ; it is covered within and without with black and white marble ; the paintins;s are by some of the best masters : the high altar was erected in 1801; its altar- piece is by Sabatello. Among the otlier churches worthy ofa visit, are Santa Tiinita, Sant' Ambrngio, Santa Fel'cita, and San 6"/)i(i?o (designed by Brunnel- leschi), all containing interesting works of art. 'iiiK H()v\r, Gallery. (Open to tJie public from 9 to 3 daily, except on Sundays and feast days, when it is open from 10 to 3. It is closed on the la.st Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday of Carni- val, and the lastl days of Passion- week. A catalogue is sold at the entrance. TJie names of the painters are afHxed to the pic- tures). This valuable collection oc- cupies the second floor of the Uttizi, or public offices, an edifice built by Vasari. 'J he gallery consists of two long parallel corridors, united at one end by a shorter one. On each side of the corridors stand anciejit sarcophagi, busts of Konian emperors, and statues. 'I'he first vesiibnie contains a statue of Mars, another of Silenus, With the infant Macchus in bronze, and ten busts of the princes of the house of Medici ; the second vesti- bule contains a horse in marble, and two quadrangular columns, on one of which is a head of C'yhele, iind on the other a bust of Jupiter; the wild boar, a cele- brated anti(pie, said to be of Grecian sculj)ture, and two wolf- dogs. On piissing through the vestibule, we enter the first cor- ridor of this immense gallery, the ceilings of which are adorned with arabes(iues ; and under them, a tine series of five hun- dred portraits of illustrious characters, in chronological order. Among the most remarkable busts and statues in the corridors, are those of \ero, Otho, Titus, Anto- ninus Pius, Marcus Aurelius, and Ale.\ander Severus; a tine bust of (,'aracalla, called by connoisseurs, " the last sigh of the art;" Wnus; and at the bottom of the third corridor a copy of the Laocoon, by liatulinelli. The octagon liall, called the Tribune, is paved with various coloured marbles, and contains the most admirable specimens of sculpture and painting. Here is the famous \'enus de Medici, sup- posed to have been tlie work of Praxiteles; the celebrated Apollo, called Apolino; the Lottatori, or the Wrestlers ; the Arrotino, or the Grinder ; and the Faun ; these are evidently the productions of the best ages of ancient sculpture, and excellently restored by liuo- narotti. The statue of the \'enus de Medici, when found, was broken in many pieces. The hands are modern; it is about five Knglish feet in height. It was found in Hadrian's villa, near livoli, ami brought to Florence in l(i4'.). Among the j>aintings in ti)e Tribune are six by Raphael, in- cluding his "St. John ])reaching in the wilderness," and the " For- narina ; " three by Titian, one being his ceiebratetl Venus; three bv Correggio ; one each by Guidoand 532 Route 128.— MILAN TO FLORENCE. ITAt.Y. Domenichino, and others by the most celebrated masters. Besides tlie two vestibules, three corridors, and hall, already mentioned, this museum contains the following apartments — Hull of Niobe ; cabinets of modern and antique bronzes in fourteen glass cases ; cabinet of Greek and Latin inscriptions ; Egyptian monu- ments, &c., &c. ; portraits of painters, chiefly done by them- selves, in two large apartments ; cabinets with pictures of the \e- netian, French, Flemish, Dutch, Italian, and Tuscan schools ; cabi- net of the hermaphrodite, and cabinets of gems, &c. ; in all, two vestibules, three corridors, two halls, and twelve cabinets. PiTTi PaljIce and Gallery. This palace was commenced by Luca Pitti, a Florentine merchant, in 1440, after the designs of Bru- nelleschi. Not being able to finish it, he sold it to the wife of Duke ( 'osmo, and it became the residence of the Medici, by whom it was considerably enlarged. The fa- (j-ade, on the Piazza Pitti, is more than 600 ft. long. The chief at- traction of the palace is its collec- tion of pictures, numbering about ;)00, "not one of which is inferior, and many of which are works of the very highest merit." Cata- logues are to be found in each of the rooms, for the use of visitors. This gallerj' boasts several of the best works of Raphael, among which is the celebrated Madonna delta Seggiola. In the Hall of Flora is Canova's celebrated statue of Venus. The Accademia delle Belle Arti (open from 9 to 3, except on Sun- days), contains an extensive col- lection of pictures and designs, interesting as showing the de- velopment of art in Tuscany. It is third in value among the collec- tions of Florence. In the Via Ricasoli, close by, is the Government manufactory of Florentine mosaics. The Mnseo Nazinnale is a col- lection recently formed to illus- trate the history of mediaeval and modern culture in Italy. It is in the palace called II Bargello, close to the Piazza S. Firenze. Admis- sion, 1 franc ; on Sundays, gratis. The House of Michael Angela is No. 49, in the Via Ghibellina. It merits a visit on account of the designs and other reminiscences of the great master, which are shown here. (Admission daily, from 10 to 3. A small fee is ex- pected.) Among other objects shown, which formerly belonged to Michael Angelo, are his writing table, sword, cane, and slippers. The house once occupied by Galileo is in the Via Costa, No. 359. Benvenuto Cellini died in the house No. 38, Via della Per- gola. There are several theatres in Florence, the largest of which is Delia Pergola, for operas and ballet, with seats for 2,000 persons. There are several open-air theatres. The A mo is crossed by six Bridges, besides the two modern suspension bridges at the extremi- ties of the city. The oldest is the Poute alle Grazie, built in 1235. The next below it is the Ponte Vecchio, which is covered with shops, mostly of goldsmiths. Above is a gallery which serves as a passage between the Uffizi and Pitti palaces. Next is the Ponte di Sta Trinita, built in 1559, and remarkable for its elegance. The next bridge is Ponte alia Car- raja, built in 1557. The principal Places are: Piazza della Signoria, formerly Granduca, the busiest part of Florence, In it is the Palazzo Vecchio, once the seat of ITALY. Route 12S.— MILAN TO FLORENCE. 553 covernment, and the residence of Cosmo I. It is now the seat of the Italian Parliami^nt. At the north cornt'r is the hrazen lion known as II Marzocco. Close by are a fountain with Xcjitune and Tritons, and the equestrian statue of Cosmo 1. by John of 15olof,'na. At each side of the entrance to the Palazzo ^'ecchio are statues, one the celebrated David by Mi- chael Angelo, and Hercules and Cacus by Bandinelli. On the south of the I'iuzza is the Loggia de' Lanzi, erected in l;375, so called because it was the guard house of the lanci>rs in the reign of Cosmo I. lieneath the arches on the right is tlie marble grouji, the " Rape of the Sabiues," by Jolin of Bologna ; on the h-ft the bronze group, " I'erseus with the head of Medusa," by Benvenuto Cel- lini ; beyond is the " Rape of Poh'xena," by Fedi, erected in 1866. In the centre a warrior supporting a dead man, supjwsed to represent Ajax ; at the back are six antique female statues, brouglit from Rome; a bronze group of '•Judith with the iiead of Ilolo- femes," bj- Ubnatello ; and " Her- cules Slaying the Centaur," by John of Bologna. Adjacent to the Loggia de" ]-anzi is the Mint. Near it is the I'ortico degli t'//?:i, the internal niches of which are adorned with statues in marble of distinguished Tuscans. The Piazza delta SS. Aiinun- ziata is a beautiful space adorned with porticos. Upon it are the church of 5.V. Anminziata and the roundiing Hospital. In the centre is the equestrian statue of Ferdi- nand I. by John of Bologna. In the Piazza Santa Croce is the Stati'e of Dante by Pazzi. It was inaugurated in 1865. The statne is 18 ft. high, the pedestal 2^ ft. The latter is adorned with four reliefs repre.senting scenes from the Divina Commedia. At the corners are four lions, and around the basi' an- the arms of tlie principal Italian cities. Immediately behind, and ex- tending south-west from tiie Pa- lazzo I'itti, are the Bouoi.i Gak- DKNs, about 1| miles in circum- ference, having the city wall for their boundary on the south. They were first planned in 13.5J by Tribolo, under Cosmo I. They are laid out in long embowered walks. Magnificent laurels and cypresses form tlie chief natural ornaments of these beautiful gar- dens ; tlie artificial consist of ter- races, statues, and vases, including four unfinished figures by Michael Angelo, said to have been intended for tlie tomb of Pope Julius II. The Cascine is the Bois de Boulogne of Florence. It is on the west side of the city, and is reached by the lung'Arno. It lies along the river, between it and the railway. It abounds in beautiful walks and drives, and affords many beautiful points of view. Kngmsii and Amiiucan Ban- kers. Maquay, Hooker, and Co. ; Eyre and Matteini. Booksellers. Goodban; Loe- scher. Chemists. Groves; Roberts. Florence owes its origin to a colony of Roman soldiers, sent thither by Octavianus after the victory of Perugia, to whom he allotted part of the territory of tlie colony of Fiesole, established about 40 years before by Sylla. Little more is known of it under the empire, and hardly any re- mains exist of that period, except some relics of an amphitheatre, and a few inscriptions. Christi- anity was established here in the third century, and early in the fourth a bishop of Florence at- tended a council at Rome. In the 554 Route 128.— MILAN TO FLORENCE. beginning of the 12th century the city had risen into importance tlirough the industry and enter- prise of its inhabitants, who lind now commercial establishments in tlie Levant, France, and otlier parts ; and had become money changers, money lenders, jewel- lers and goldsmiths. In the latter end of the 1-lth century, the wealthy family of the Albizzi be- came chief rulers in Florence. Tliese again were overtlirown in 1434 by Cosmo de Medici, a popular citizen and princely mer- chant, who assumed the first place in the state. On the fall of the republic in the 16th century, a member of a lateral branch of the Medici — the line of Cosmo having become extinct — was placed by Charles V. as Duke of Florence. The ducal dynasty of Medici continued to rule till the year 1737, when, becoming extinct, they were succeeded by Francis of Lorraine, afterwards Emperor of 'Germany. From tliis period the history of Florence merges into that of Tuscany, until its amalgamation with the Kingdom of Italy. In 1865 it was raised to the dignity of capital of the king- dom, the seat of government being transferred to it from Turin. A- mong the illustrious men it has produced, are Dante, Petrarch, Jioccaccip, Guicciardini, Lorenzo de IMedici, Galileo, Michael An- gelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Ben- venuto Cellini, Andrea del Sarto, Amerigo Vespucci, &c. " Of all the fairest cities of the earth None is so fair as Florence. 'Tis a gem Of purest ray; and what a light broke forth When it emerged from darkness! Search within. Without; all is enchantment ! 'Tis the Past Contending with the Present ; and in turn Each has the mastery." — IJoOEHS. Route 129. FLORENCE TO VENICE, BY BOLOGNA AND PADUA, (That part of the route between Bologna and Florence is de- scribed in Route l'i8, that part between Padua and Venice, in Route 127.) From Bologna to Padua, 78y miles ; 1st class, l-l'bO francs ; 2nd, 11-10 francs; Srd, 7-95 francs. ctplMi^FTER quitting Bolognn •i we pass through a fer- tile but uninterestin -3 I— I Pd r K M O > C/3 o 1 3 r3 '7 -'.9 2 fl JBaptistzry. . - / Campanile/ J'J' An/ttinxiiUit Btdia Carmi/ie S Cr^cf S. Ffb,-e- S. Lorfn\p S. Marr^ - IVuona. / SopUaJ Orsan/nichfle S. A^l'Ccolo . S. Rernufw. X Xpiriio . . Xf TrmM C )) t F C ]) E c- D E n r r ;. '^^ Palact Palace s. Verchic Logffta de La/iKi ^4ccademia- deSe BeJle^ Art' Muse/} d' /yUiria.'A'ati/r/j/e' Litrar i e s. 2 3 B Lawenbana. sh Ma^UabecchuintJ a h MaruceUiarui ■z 6 Riccardi-ana . Privai.e Palaces. ^•7 f. AltovtU Capponi Corstm-'. Pandelfini/ U C D E U E \ VI V \ III B \ I D fV t n Ml ^ E 111 j^ . F. rv \\ 28 3: 3i 33 3k 3j 36 3l 3S 1,3 *.5 StrofJX . Tieatces Th. Ayieri- df^Borgo Ognt-fjo^il^. del Ofccni^ro . Goldont Le0poldo T(vovo . . . de//a Pfrgola^. ^ deUa /'laKxtt Vecchuu . Dutrno del Polite^im^ Post &ffice PoUa Office Appleloris Europeaa Guide Book. ENCE MaJbv X: Sons.Ionrlon Route 131.— FLORENCE TO LEGHORN. .559 tiers, that the Gennan architect contrived this declination, which his Italian successors endeavoured to rectify. As, however, a ueii;li- hourinijf belfry, and the obser- vatory in the atljoining street, have been i'ouiid to lean to the same side, tiiere can be little doubt that the Caiiipunile leans only from the same cause — the softness of the soil on which it stands. But, whatever be the cause of its oblinuity, the tower seems to be in no uanurer of falling-. Motwithstandiui; its threatening' ajijjearance, it has now stood more tlian 600 years without rent or decay. Campn Santo. — Tliis cloistered cemetery, constructed in the 1,3th century, is a vast rectangle 3ii3 ft. in length by 127 ft. in width, surrounded by arcades of white marble. The arches, like those met with in Roman architecture, are round, and the pillars faced with pilasters ; but each arcade, with the exception of oidy four, includes an intersection of small arches, rising from slender shafts like the mullions of a Gothic window. Tliis, however, is sup- posed to be an addition, the arcades having, to all appearance, been open originally down to tlie pavement. In their present state they are not unlike so many Gothic windows stripped of their glass. In this Canipo Santo it was, that, at the dawn of modern paint- ing, the more distinguished of the Tuscan artists were taught to emulate each other's powers. Here Giotto executed certain his- torical pieces from the life of Job, which, though amongst his earliest performances, are not altogether devoid of nierit. 11 err Gozzoli finished, in the short sj)ace of two vears, his " \oah inebriated," his " Building of the Tower of Hal)el," with other scriptural sub- jects which cover one entire wing of the cemetery — a work that might, as X'asari well observed of it, ajjpal a whole host of jtainters. Jlere, also, Andrea Orcagna gave a representation of the Last Judg- ment; and IScrnardo Urcagna another of the Jnferno. In a jiainting in the corner of the rect- angle to the right of the entrance, Andrea has taken occasion to re])resent the effects of the sacred soil of which the cemetery is composed. Jt is said to liave been filled, to the depth of 9 ft., with earth brought by the Pisans from the Holy Land, on their return from tlie third crusade. This earth was thou";ht to possess the jiro- perty of decomposing animal substances in the space of four- and-twenty hours. Such, at least, is the prevailing notion, though Simond, on the contrary, asserts that " bodies buried in it are said to be safe from decay." Ranged round the walls are a number of interesting sarcophagi, Egyptian and other antitjuities, and several modern statues. On one of the walls are the chains of the ancient harbour of Pisa, captured by the Genoese in lo6'i, pjirts of which were given to the Florentines, and restored to Pisa in 1818. The Uiiitersity of Pisa is one of the oldest in Italy ; it was founded in 1'298, and is still accounted the seat of Tuscan education. It has three colleges with thirty-five professors, also a library, a botani- cal garden, a cabinet of natural history, and an observatory. The expenses are wholly defrayed by government, but the number of students never exceetls .iOO. Among the other jiublic build- ings, special notice is due to tlie cliurches of La ^Ia^tolllla delta iipiua and San Stej'unOy both rich 560 Route iSi.— FLORENCE TO LEGHORN. ITALV. in paintings and sculptures, and the latter famous for its organ, the largest in Italy ; the Grand Vucdl and Lanjraiichi palaces ; the Tone del Fame, so called from its being supposed to have been the spot in which Ugolino Ghe- rardesca and his children were starved to death in 1288. The Palazzo Toscanelli, formerly Lunfranclii, is attributed to J\li- chael Angelo. Lord Byron re- sided here in 1822. Galileo was born in the Palazzo Scotto, on February 18th, 1564. The Academy of tine Arts, esta- blished in 1812, by Napoleon, contains some very good paint- ings, chiefly of the Pisan and Florentine schools. Pisa contains some Roman remains, amongst wljich are the baths, called Ba^ni di Nerone, and the vestibule of a temple, now forming part of the Archivio del Duomo. Pisa is a place of great an- tiquity, having been one of the twelve towns of Etruria, and after- wards augmented by a colony from Rome. It did nothowever become distinguished till the tenth century, when it took the lead of the com- mercial republics of Italy. In the eleventh century its fleet of gal- leys maintained a superiority in the jVIediterranean, commanding the coasts of Sicily, Sardinia, Corsica, and Barbary, and assist- ing the French in tlie Crusades. In the thirteenth century, the as- cendency of Genoa cast Pisa into the shade ; in 1298 its fleet was destroyed by its rivals ; and since the beginning of the sixteenth, it was subject to Tuscany, until it became a part of the present kingdom of Italy. Leghorn (Hotels: Vitturia et Washington, de C Aigle, Grande Bretagne, du Nord), population, 100,000. It is of a square form, and about 2| miles in circuit, but has two large suburbs. The streets are, in general, wide, straight, clean, and well paved. The north-west end of the town, or that lying between the citadel and the old castle, is intersected by canals which carry the mer- chandise to the doors of the ware- houses. The private houses are for the most part well-built, but there are few public buildings of interest. The town itself is chiefly of modern origin, and destitute of the historical associations and classical monuments which invest most Italian cities with their highest interest ; its fine Mediter- ranean site, animated aspect, and great commercial life, are its prin- cipal attractions. The churches are numerous. The princijial church is the Duomo, originally only a parish church, and of such limited di- mensions that a new cathedral on a larger scale has been begun. Among the objects of interest are a ducal palace, of little architec- tural merit; a marble statue of Ferdinand I., by Pietra Tacca, the Lazarettos of San Rocco, Sua Jacnpo, and San Leopoldo, all well managed institutions, and re- markable structures, particularly the last, which is one of the most magnificent works of the kind ia Europe ; the Torre del Marzocco, built of red marble, and so called from the Marzocco or Lion, by which it is surmounted ; a theatre, public library, and aqueduct. Leghorn is a free port, and has an extensive trade, botli general and transit. The harbour is of large extent, but somewhat dif- ficult of entrance, from the nu- merous shoals which surround it. It is also much silted up, par- ticularly in the inner harbour, which is now chiefly used for i ITALY. Route 131.— FLORENCE TO LEGHORN. 561 repairing and building. ITie ou- ter harbour is protected by a fine mole, which extends about half a mile into the sea. The depth of water at its extremity is not more than 18 ft., and diminisiies rapidly towards the interior, making it inaccessible to vessels of large burden. Towards the end of the thir- teenth century, Leghorn was an unprotected village, which only assumed some importance on the destruction of the port of Pisa, and especially on its being .as- signed to Florence in 1421. Ales- sandro dei Medici constructed its citadel, and fortified the town ; Cosmo I. declared it a free port, imd from that time dates the rise of its prosperity. In the seven- teenth century, under Ferdinand I., it was a town of great com- mercial importance ; and during the French imperial occupation of Italy, Leghorn was proclaimed the chief town of the department of the JNIediterranean. It became part of the kingdom of Italy after the events of 1859. Route 132. LEGHORN TO ROME, BY CIVITA VECCIHA. SlOfmJfes; 1st class, 56-45 francs; 2nd, 27-40 francs. RO^I Leghorn we pro- ceed to CoUe iiulveli (10 miles), and Acquabona (24miles),intheneigh- of which latter place gypsum of a superior quality is obtained. From this place we pass through a fertile bourhood alabaster plain to Cecina (32 miles), situated on the southern bank of the river of that name, near the sea-coast. Great ([uantities of charcoal are shipped from St. Vincenzo (48 miles). After pa.ssing Cornia (3-t miles) we cross a large plain, and go through a j)ine forest, with thick underwood which harbours .abundance of wild boars and deer. There are extensive government ironworks at Folbnica (65 miles), which produce several millions of pounds of superior metal annually. These works are only in operation from December to 3Iay, .is at other seasons malaria is ])revalent. The line now turns awiiy from tlie JNIediterranean and passes through a valley to Fotassu (74 miles), which derives its name from the quantities of pot.ish produced in the neighbourhood. \Ve presently reach Grosseto (90 miles). Ho- tel: L'Aquilii), a fortified town of 3,000 inhabitants, and a bishop's see. The Cathedral is in the Ita- lian Gothic style of the 13th cen- tury. The facade is of red and white marble, and the portal is adorned with elaborate sculptures. The ])iazza contains a statue of the Grand Duke Leopold II. There is a public library, and a small museum. A few miles distant are the ruins of the once powerful Etruscan city of Rusellie. W'e next reach lalamone (105 miles), the ancient TeUimon, beyond which we cross the Osa, and soon after- wards the Albegna, and reach the station of that name (110 miles). Near the mouth of the river, on the right, is the Torre delle Saline, in which salt is stored. There is a tine view from this point. Some miles distant are the interesting re- mains of the ancient city of Vetu- lonia. Excavationshave been made, and several earthenware vases and bronzes discovered. Many tombs, adorned with paintings, have 562 Route 132.— LEGHORN TO ROME. ITALY. been opened in the neighbourhood. On quitting Albegna we pass the Stagno, or Salt Lake, of Orbetello, lying beneath Monte Argentaro, the Mons Argentariits of the ancient Romans. On the sea-coast are the fortified ports of San Stefano, and Port' Ercole (the ancient Partus Herculis), the chief business of which is in the tunny fisheries. Orbetello (114 miles) is a town of about 3,200 inhabitants, situated on the shore of the salt lake above mentioned. In its vicinity, at Ansedonia, are the ruins of the ancient Cosa, which are deserving of a visit. They can be reached by a boat, the distance being four or five miles. We now pass by the foot of tlie hill of Ansedonia, and near the Lago Burano, and crossing the Chiarone, which marks the fron- tier between Italy and the Papal States, and the Fiora, we pass Montalto, the frontier town of the Papal States, and Conieto, and reach CiviTA Vecchia (159 miles), (^Hotels: Orlandi's, de I'Europe), population about 8,000. This town, which is a free port, has of late years acquired considerable importance from tlie construction of the railway to Rome, and the increase of steam navigation on the Italian coast. Many passen- gers make the journey to Italy via Marseilles and this place. The Port was constructed in the reign of Trajan, and considerable addi- ditions and improvements have been made, from time to time, subsequently. About tliree miles distant are some mineral springs called Bagni di Trajano. On the foundations of the aqueduct erected under Trajan another has been constructed by which water is con- veyed a distance of twenty-three miles. The Rocca, or Castle, con- tains some Roman and Etruscan remains, and there are others in several private collections. Leaving Civita Vecchia we pro- ceed for about fifteen miles along the sea-coast. The line passes beneath the western range of the hills of La Tolfa, near the site of the Roman station of Cdstrum No- tJMm, ontlie AurelianWay. A fine view opens out as we approach Santa Marinella(165 miles). Here is a mediaeval castle, on the site of the old Roman fortress of Pii- nicum. Near this place are the remains of a massive bridge which crossed a small stream on the Au- relian Way. At Santa Severa (170 miles) we pass a very fine mediaeval fortress, surrounded by a turreted wall. This village occupies the site of Pyrgos, the port of Coere, which was celebrated in former times. Palo (179 miles) consists merely of a few houses on the sea-coast, with an ancient port displaying traces of Roman works. Numerous Etruscan an- tiquities have been discovered in the neighbourhood. Pompey and Antoninus Pius once had villas here. On leaving Palo we turn away from the coast. Crossing the Capine, we see on each side of the bridge the ruins of a se- pulchre. We proceed for a con- siderable distance through a very fertile country, and enter the val- ley of the Tiber. We keep along the left bank of that river, and shortly after passing La Magliana (200 miles) obtain our first view of Rome, the prospect extending over the Campagna and the Alban hills beyond. Passing the base of the Monte Verde, we cross the Tiber on an iron bridge, and skirt the Aurelian Wall for some dis- tance, passing near the Protestant Cemetery, and the pyi-amid of C. Cestius. We then cross the Via Ostiensis over a viaduct, and go on to the Porta Maggiore, where ITALY. Route 132.— LEG IIORX TO ROME. 563 the line from Naples falls in. We enter the city l)y an ojjenino^ in the Aurelian Wall. We pass the ruins of the Temple of Mineriu Medica, and the church of St. Hi- biana, and reach -the Central Sta- tion, near the Thennre of Diocle- tian, in the Piazza dei Tcnnini. (For description of Koiue see Route 133.) Route 133. FLORENCE TO ROME. 23'2f miles ; 1st class, 40-50 francs; 2nd, 28-60 francs; 3rd, 19-30 francs. f"^, EAVIXG Florence we t^iJ proceed up tlie valley jfl '^h^ ^* ^^^^ Arno to Poutus- ^l^^k sieve (I'J,} miles), and Figline (25 miles). In the neigh- bourhood of the latter place great quantities of fossil bones of various animals have been discovered, 'flu; upjier valley of tlie Arno is in- teresting to the geologist. At San Giovanni (30 miles), the Duomo, and the church of San Lorenzo, contain some interesting paintings. 3/o)i(erurc/ii(33-J miles) contains the Museum of the Aca- demia Val d'Arnese, in whicli the geologist will tind a good collec- tion of the fossil n-mains found in the district. Passing some other places we re.icb Arizzo (55 miles, {Hotels: V'ittoria, Royal, La Posta), population 10,500. It is a place of great antiquity, and is d<>light- fuUy situated along the slopes of a range of hills. Under the name of /lrrftiiim,it wasone of the most important cities of the ancient Etruscan League. The Piazza Grande is adorned with handsome colonnades. It contains, among other buildings, the Church of Santa Muria della Pieve, dating from the commence- ment of the ninth century. The facade has three colonnades, of varied columns, in tit-rs. The bell-tower has five stories of columns, witii curiously-carved capitals. Above the liigli altar is \'asari's fine painting of "St. George," and over anotlier altar, a Gothic altar-piece, in com])art- ments, by Lurati, restored by Vasari. In tlie centre are the Virgin and Child, and SS. John the Baptist, Matthew, John the Evangelist, and Donatus, on either side. The Duomo is a handsome Ita- lian Gotliic structure, dating from 1177, witli additions made in the thirteenth century. The facade is finely sculptured. The interior is adorned with frescoes and beau- tiful stained-glass windows. Near the high altar is a marble shrine by Giovanni di Pisa, covered with bas-reliefs and small statues. Amongst the tombs whicli deserve attention are those of Tarlati, liishop of Arezzo, and chief of the Ghibellines, erected about the year 1330, and that of Pope Gre- gory X., dating from 1275. The former is ornamented with sculp- tures representing scenes in the career of the bisliop, which was that of a warrior rather than of a churchman. The tomb of Gre- gory X. is under an arch, above wliich is a medallion representing- the Saviour in the act of pro- nouncing a benediction. Near this tomb is a representation of the " Mart^T-dom of San Donate," by Benvenuti. The cliajtel of the Virgin contains a great painting, "Judith sliowing the Head of Ilolofemes," by the s.ame artist; and another of " Abigail going to meet David," by Sabatelli. In 564 Route 133.— FLORENCE TO ROME. ITALY. the cliapel of the Madonna del Contbrto are two fine paintings by Luca della Robbia, and one by Andrea. There are some other paintings and frescoes that merit attention. The church of the Badia di Santa Fiora has its ceiling adorred with paintings by Pozzi. The refectory contains Vasari's paint- ing of the " Banquet of Alia- suerus." The churcli of San Francesco contains some beautiful frescoes behind the high altar, and some other good paintings, besides a fine circular window filled with stained glass. The churches of the Annurtziata, San Domenico, San Bartotoineo, and San Bernardo, have interesting frescoes. There is a fine one on the wall of the Convent della Croce, and in the chapel a fine picture of the Virgin and some saints, by Luca Signo- relli. Tlie Palazzo Pubhlico, erected in 1332, but modernized, contains a collection of paintings by native artists. The Confraternitd di Sa7ita Maria della Misericordia has a beau- tiful Gothic front and portal. Be- sides being an institution for the relief of the poor, it contains a library of more than 10,000 vo- lumes, and a museum of natural history and antiquities. A fresco representing Christ, the Virgin, and St. John, is above the entrance. The Museo Puhblico contains a collection of ancient bronzes, vases, and urns. The Passeggio del Prato, extend- ing from the cathedral to the fortress, is a favourite jtromenade. Leaving Arezzo we proceed along the valley of the Chiana. Passing Castiglione (66^ miles), in the Collegiate C/i?irc/i of which there are some good paintings, we reach CoRTONA (72^ miles), population 3,500, situated on the slope of a mountain, upwards of 2,000 ft. above the sea. A great portion of the ancient wall is preserved, and tliere are several Etruscan remains within the town, and out- side it. Tlie Accademia Etrusca, in the Palazzo Pretorio, contains a library and a museum, chiefly of bronzes and coins. The Cathedral and the other churches contain several paintings of merit. After leaving Cortona we pass close by the celebrated Lake of TnRAsiMENE (Lago Trasimeno), near which was fought tlie great and disastrous battle between the Romans and Carthaginians. This lake is about 8 miles across in the widest parts, and measures about 30 miles in circumference. It is surrounded by low hills covered witli oaks and pines^ and abound- ing in plantations of olives. The principal island, the Isola Maggiore, contains a convent. There are two other islands, of no note. Soon after leaving Passignano (84J miles) we reach Perugia (103 miles). (Hotels: delaCrande Bre- tagne, del Trasimeno), population 18,500. This town, like Cortona, was a powerful member of the Etruscan League. Great portions of the ancient walls have been preserved, together with the gates, more or less perfect. The princi- pal gate is called the Arch of Au- gustus. Its arch is 30 ft. high, adorned with an Ionic frieze. It is flanked by two towers. The Porta Marzia has been removed from its original position, and built into the wall of the castle. In 1840 the Necropolis was dis- covered. The largest and best preserved of the tombs is called the Grotta de' Volunni (Sepulchre of the Volumnii). It is divided into ten chambers ; a central one, ITALY. Iloute 133.— FLORENCE TO ROME. 565 with tlio others opening into it. In one of them are seven cinerary urns, adorned with figures. One, of alabaster, is in the form of a temple, and has bas-reliefs of bulls' heads, sphinxes and wreaths of flowers. The ceiling of this chamber is in compartments, with a gorgpn's head in the centre. The other chambers have their walls adorned with figures in earthenware, representing dra- gons, dolphins, owls, 6cc., with protrutling tongues of metal. The contents of this tomb — vases, ^' lamps, armour and weapons, &c. — have, for the most part, been removed. The other tombs have been destroyed in making tlie railway, and their contents are in a building appro])riati'd to them near the principal tomb, or in the villa Baglioni. The Cathedral is a mixture of the Gothic and Roman styles. In one of the chapels (the first on the right in the nave), is a fine Descent from the Cross ; this chapel has a beautiful painted window, and is surrounded by a handsome railing, or screen. The other chapels are finely de- corated. In the right transept is a red marble sarcojihagus, con- taining the remains of three Popes — Innocent 111., Urban IV., and Martin IV. Perugia contains upwards of 100 churches and oratories, and sevoral monastic institutions. The most attractive are the following: — The Convent of S. Agtiese, the church of S. Agos- tino, the Confruternitu di S. Agos- tino, the church of S. Angelo, ConJ'raternita di S. Benedetto, Confraiernita of SS. Andrea and Bernardino, the church of San Domenico, the church of S. Erco- lano, the Convent Church of S. Francesco dei Concentuati, and the Churcli attached to the IJenedic- tine ^loiiastery of S. Pielro dei Casinensi. The Piazza del Sopramitin de- rives its name from the vaults on which it stands, and wliicli were constructed to fill the space be- tween the eminences on whicli the cathedral and the fortress are placed. It contains two palaces, one now styled the Tiihitnule del Circondario, the other the I ribu- 7tale di Appello. Here is also a fine fountain. The Great Fountain, near the Cathedral, consists of three basins, tlie two lower of marble, the upper of bronze. The marble basins have twenty-four sides, adorned with bas-reliefs. The bronze basin is supported by a column of the same nn^tal. Three nymphs, surmounted by as many griffins, rise from its centre. The Piazza del Papa, near the Cathedral, is so called from its containing a bronze statue of Pope Julius 111. The Palazzo Conneslabile, in this square, contains the Staffa ^ladonna, by Kapliael. The Palazzo Commuuativo, in the Corso, opposite the Cathedral, contains tiie principal j)ublic offices, and the residence of the Prefect. The doorway is in the Italian Gothic style, and is richly sculptured. It contains tlie arms of tlje allied cities of Rome, Bo- logna, Florence, Pisa, iSaples, and Venice ; the Papal arms, and those of the Kings of France; statues of saints, and other fi- gures. The Sala del Cambio (Hall of the Bankers and Money Changers; is ornamented with choice frescoes bv Perugino. In some of these he was assisted by Raphael. The i'nirersitii, established in 13'JO, has a Botanical Garden, a 566 Route 133.— FLORENCE TO ROME. ITALY. Cabinet of Mineralogy, and a Museum of Antiquities. The Finacoteca, or Gallery of Paintings of the A cademy of Fine Arts, contains some very good pictures. The Public Library contains upwards of 30,000 volumes, and a number of valuable manuscripts. The Lunatic Asylum, outside the Porta di S. Margherita, is admirably conducted, and is well worth a visit from tliose who are interested in such institutions. Leaving Perugia, we presently pass Ponte San Giovanni, where we cross the Tiber, the boundary between Etruria and Umbria. Passing Bastia, we reach Assisi (118 miles), otherwise styled La Madonna ciegli Angeli, from the beautiful church of tliat name, erected fo enclose the cell and chapel of St. Francis. About a mile and a half distant is the village of Assisi, with its famous double church (upper and lower), and convent founded by St. Francis. Behind Assisi rises the Monte Subado, 3,620 ft. above the sea. Leaving Assisi, we pass Spello (125 miles), which contains a handsome Roman gateway, and other remains. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Magglore contains two good frescoes by Perugino; in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament are three fine frescoes by Pinturrichio, repre- senting the Annunciation, tlie Nativity, and Christ disputing with the Doctors. Crossing tlie Topino we reach FoLiONO (128 miles), (Hotel : i^^iij/ad'Oi-o), population upwards of 13,000. It has a Cathedral and five churches, none of which call for any attention. A consi- derable trade is done in cattle, and in the manufacture of woollen _£;oods and wax candles. We next reach Trevi (133 miles), the ancient Trebia. The church of La Madonna delle La- grine contains some good frescoes, Tlie cliurcli of Sa7i Martina has a good painting of the Virgin and Child, and a handsome altar-piece. After leaving Trevi, we pass close to the river Clitumnus, celebrated by Virgil and by Lord Byron. Its sources are three miles distant ; and near them is a Temple, sup- posed to be that existing in the time of Pliny, and now consecrated as the chapel of the Saviour (San Salvatore). The next station is Spoleto (143§ miles). The Cathe- dral is an ancient building, having a fapade with five arches, supported by very old columns. The frieze is ornamented with arabesques. The Gothic window in tlie centre is filled with stained glass. The choir and baptistery are painted with good frescoes. A beautiful view is to be had from the Citadel. The valley is here crossed by a fine aqueduct, which serves also as a bridge. Spoleto has several Roman remains, including an arcli, and the vestiges of a temple and a theatre. On quitting Spo- leto we ascend the vallej^ of the Maroggia as far as the Pass oj Baldiuni, where we pass under the heights of La Somna through a tunnel nearly a mile long, and enter the valley of La Serra. We pass the medijeval fortress of La Rocca di San Zenone, and reach Terni (162 miles), (Hotels: de I'Europe, d'Angleterre), popula- tion, about 8,000. It is a manu- facturing town, and the birth- place of Tacitus the historian. The high altar of the Cathedral is adorned with fine marbles. The Church of San Francisco, of the 13th century, has a handsome portal and bell tower. The in- terior is adorned with frescoes. Among the antiquities of the place ITALY. noute 133— FLORENCE TO HOME. 567 are tlie remains of an amj)liitlieatre, two temples, baths, and some Roman inscriptions, preserved in tlie Palazzo Publico. Tlie celebrated Falls of Terni arc about fi ve miles distant. G uides can be procured at either of the hotels. Their charge is fixed at 3 francs, whatever the size of tlie party may be. A carrian^e costs 5 frs. for one person, 7 for two, and 2 J'rs. extra for every extra person above two. The falls can be seen both from above and below, and from several points of view. Lord Byron has pronounced them "worth all the cascades and torrents of Switzerland put to- gether." Like that at Tivoli, this cascade was artificially constructed by the Romans. The height of the upper Fall is computed at 50 ft. ; the second, at between 500 and 600 ft. ; and the lowest 240 ft ; making a total of from 800 to 900 ft. Leaving Temi, we follow the course of the Nera to Narni (170 miles), {Hotel: La Fosta), popu- lation about 3/200. It is chiefly interesting from its very ancient Jirid'^e of Augustus, one of the finest existing remains of Roman architecture. 'I'he ancient Fla- miiiian II ai/ once led over it. One arch only remains. It is upwards of 60 ft. high, and about 30 ft. between the ])iers. 'J"he Cathedral of St. Juvenalis contains a good i)icture of the 8aint. In the Convent of the Zoc- colanti, there is a fine work by Lo Spagna, " The Coronation of the A'irgin." We pass under an arch cut through the approach of the Bridge of Augustus, on the north side, and keej) along the gorge of the Nera for some distance. The cliffs are precipitous, and the line passes through two tunnels before entering tlie jdain of the Tiber, and crossing the river near Orte (179i miles), situated about two miles from the confluence of the Nera and Tiber. This is the frontier of the Papal States. Near Bori^hetto (188 miles), we have a fine view of .Mount Soracte. Ex- press trains make no stop between Orte and Rome. EOME. OPULATION, 217,378, ( Hotels : d'Angleterre, de Lon- dres, de l' Europe, Costanzi, de Rome, de Russie, des lies Brittaniqiies, A7iglo- American,d' Allemagne,d' Amerique, della Mineiva.) Furnished Apartments. The best situations are in and about the Piazza di Spag-na. The best streets are the Via Babuino, Gre- goriana,Sistina, Felice, delle Quat- tro Fontane, della Propaganda, Tritone, Condotti, della Croce, &c. Prices are still comparative- ly cheap ; a good salon, and three good bed-rooms, with kitchen, in the best quarter, costing from 250 to 350 francs per mouth. It is advisable to employ a good house agent, in hiring apartments, to aid in selecting a desirable location, and in arranging term.s. English and American Ban- kers. Maquay, Hooker and Co., 20, Piazza di Spagna. Booksellers. Spithover ; Piali, both in the Piazzi di Spagna. English Chemist and Drug- gist. George Baker, 17 and 18, Via della Mercede. Notes. — For additional de- scriptions or prominent objects, SEE Notes at page 602. (A Plan of Rome will be found in the cover.) Days and Hours for Visiting Galleries and Villas. Albani Villa, Tuesday 12 to 4, permission from Prince Torlonia, or at Spada, Flamini & Co., 11, Via Condotti. Barberini, daily, 1 to 4, except Thursday, 2 to 4. Borghese Palace, every day, ex- cept Saturday, 10 to 3. Borghese Villa, grounds daily, except Monday, after 12 o'clock. Museum of Sculpture in the Ca- sino, Saturdays only, from 2 to 4. Capitol, daily, 10 to 3. Colonna, daily, 12 to 3. Corsini, Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, 9 to 3, and on the 1st and 15th of each month, and daily from Palm Sunday to the Sunday after Easter. Doria, Tuesdays and Fridays, 10 to 12. The Farnesina on the 1st and 15th of each month, 8 to 12. Lateran Museum, daily, 10 to 3. Medici Gardens, daily, after 3 o'clock. Pamfili Villa, Mondays and Fridays, for driving and riding. Rospigliosi Casino, Wednes- days and Saturdays, 9 to 3. Sciarra, Saturdays, 10 to 3. St. Luca, daily, 10 to 3. Torlonia Villa, Wednesdays, 1 to 3. Permission of the Prince Via dei Fornari. Vatican, daily, 10 to 3, except on Mondays, when the hours are from 12 to 3, (the Picture Gallery and Etruscan Museum are closed on Mondays.) Note. — The occupation of Rome by the Italian army on Sept. 20, and its formal incorporation into the kingdom of Italy on Oct. 9, 1870, have led to changes in the church ceremonies. Thesechanges will be noted from time to time in the publications to which reference is made below, and tourists should consult tliem. The following list was correct up to the time of the Italian occupation. Church Festivals. — Fuller de- tails are contained in the Diario di Roma, costing 50c., and L'-An- nie Liturgique, costing 1 />., published annually. The best work on the ceremonies of the Holy ^Veek and their signification IP' 1T4I.T. ROUE. 569 >m»'n in uni- ;r<":=, 'drA to ■jt are only to •.ard, during the •8, and, on account ' uld b«s*r- yuslv. bv ■-, and r J ope ia .' of other ^t. 10 tiie ManvutU dtlle eerimon'ie che kanno luoso nelta uttimana utnU e neir otUiiii di payjua at Valicano (li fr. /; also a Fr»-nch edition. A(Uiiis-ion to the ?"ixtin'- C'haj/<'l, as wtU as to .St. Pefyr's on irr--at occasions Oo th" re&erred part , is accord' form or ladit-E in ^ Teils, or b . serred for V- '»•-■- }. o: C- a' 'i c- 1 ]. ; on ( 'zr.'*. t; Oil . » from . in t. on Am • .-. ^ ran. and '. - I. t.. gior-. J xv~.'-^ ■•— i: l: place in ' companieG ;^,. ..... tatioDS," 6cc.> of other old alaopnae festiralc, '. papal bar. foms. j / are Uab Jan. 1.— ?»ii»:rj^, 1'. . . 5. — Cap. Papt .......*;. 3 P.M. Jiji. o. — Eptjibaaj. Cap. Pa- pale IB the SMXtine, 10 a.m. ; at 4 P.M. proeeMiaa in tbeCbnrcbof i. Sta. Maria di Ara C'zli. Jan. 17. — ^. Arr^r-'ji^j Abbate, heme^etir -irrmala i JaB. 1. -.'J of the 9 i. chair of St. Peter, Cap. Papale in St. Petfrr's, 10 A.M. Jan. 21. — ^S. Agnese foori. Feb. 2. — Candlemas. Cap. Pa- pale in .St. Peter 'g. 9 a.m. f • - ' -ry in lU A. X. ."N;r/liOa8 iim on Fridays. Marcij. — tvery ¥riaie in .tion of .»a^o, 2 p.m. in .fid . — Cap. Papale A.M. At noon ' ■•' -t- of of of -Cap. Papale in ' A.M. At 3, Tene- ..^-rere. iy. — Cap. Papale in the -daT-- .'ap. Papale 3laM, tlje ..M. fcle- ind the —Cap. Papa]« 3 P.M., aujrirj. ap. Papale, 570 .ROME. ITALY. Saturday in Albis. — Cap. Pa- pale, 9 A.M., in the Sixtine. April 25. — Procession of clergy from S. Marco to St. Peter's, 7.30 A.M. May 26.— S. Philipo Neri. Cap. Papale in the Chiesa Nova, 10 A.M. Ascension. — Cap. Papale in the Lateran and benediction from the loggia. Whitsunday. — Cap. Papale, 10 A.M., in the Sixtine. Trinity. — Cap. Papale, 10 a.m., in the Sixtine. Corpus Domini. — Procession of Pope and clergy round the Piazza of St. Peter's, 8 a.m. June 1, 17, 21. — Cap. Papale in the Sixtine. June 24. — Cap. Papale, La- teran, 10 A.M. June 28.— Eve of St. Peter and St. Paul. Cap. Papale, St. Pe- ter's, 6 P.M. June29. — Feast of St. Peter and St. Paul. Cap. Papale in St. Peter's in the forenoon. Aug. 15. — Assumption of the Virgin. Cap. Papale in S. Maria Maggiore, 9 a.m.; afterwards, be- nediction from the loggia. Sept. 8. — Nativity of the Virgin. Cap. Papale in S. Maria del Po- polo, 10 AM. Nov. 1. — All Saints' Day. Cap. Papale in the Sixtine, 10 a.m. and 3 P.M. Nov. 2.— All Souls' Day. Cap. Papale in the Sixtine, 10 a.m. Nov. 3. — Requiem for former popes. Cap. Papale in the Six- tine, 10 A.M. Nov. 4. — S. Carlo Borromeo. Cap. Papale in S. Carlo, 10 a.m. Nov. 5. — Requiem for deceased cardinals in the Sixtine. Nov. 7. — Requiem for deceased .singers of the Cappella Papale in the Chiesa Nuova. On the four Sundays of Advent, Cap. Papale in the Sixtine, 10 a.m. Dec. 8. — Conception. Cap. Pa- pale in the Sixtine, 3 p.m. Pro- cession from Ara Coeli. Dec. 24. — Christmas Eve. Cap. Papale in the Sixtine, 8 p.m. To- wards midnight, solemnities in Ara Cosli, about 3 a.m., in S. Maria Maggiore. Dec.25.— Christmas Day. Cap. Papale in St. Peter's, 9 a.m. ; elevation of the host announced by trumpets in the dome. ^ Dec. 26.— St. Stephen's Day. Cap. Papale in the Sixtine, 10 a.m. Dec. 27. — St. John the Evang. Cap. Papale in the Sixtine, 10 a.m. Dec. 31. — Cap. Papale in the Sixtine ; after which, about 4 p.m., grand Te Deum in Gesu. Modern Rome occupies the plain on each side of the Tiber and the slopes of the seven hills. The city is built on marshy ground, and is divided by the Tiber into two unequal parts, that on the left bank being Rome proper, and tliat on the right bank being the Leonine city, or Trastevere. Its walls are 12 miles in circuit, and contain 16 gates, of which four are built up. They enclose a space, of which about one-third only is in- habited, the greater part to the south of the capital being under cultivation. Tlie site of the ancient Campus Martins constitutes the lower and most densely-populated part of the city. Of tlie seven hills of ancient Rome, all are situated on the left bank of the Tiber, and only three of them lie within the limits of tlie modern city. They form part of the declivity or ridge already men- tioned as bounding the Campus JMartius. Their names are the Quirinal, the Viminal, and the Capitol. The first occupies the western edge of tlie declivity, nearly opposite to the centre of ITALY. ROME. 571 tbe Campus Martius; the second is immcdiiitoly to the cast of it, and the tliird to the south-west. The othor tour liills are tlio Ksqni- liiie, south-east of the Viminal; the Ca-liaii, considerahly east, but south of the Esquiline; tlie Aien- tiiie, close to the river ; and the I'ulatine, which has an interme- diate position, forminij a kind of central nucleus between the Capi- tol on the north-west, tlie Coclian on the east, and the Aventine on A.D. 271, must in many parts be identical with the orijonal structure, thoup^h comparatively little of it can now be traced. 'I'he walls on till' riufiit hank are much more recent, and form two separate inclosures; a transverse wall, im- mediately south of the Uortjo, separating^ it from the suburb of 'I'rastevere, and convertings it, witli its Castle of St. Anf^elo, into a kind of isolated citadel. BRIDGE OF S. ANGELO, AND ST. PETER S. the south-west. These four liills and the spaces within and around tliem, coverincf a large extent of ground to the south and east of the present city, have no habita- tions except a few convents and villas, no lonsjer tenanted, and are, for the most part, under culti- vation. In ancient times, how- ever, they stood in the very heart of the city, and are the sites of some of its noblest ruins. The walls, built of brick, witli occasional patches of stone work, with numerous towers, have an averasfe height of about 50 ft. The walls on the left bank are ancient, and following- the same line as that traced by Aurelian, Bridges. In ancient Rome, the Tiber was crossed by eight bridges. Ves- tiges of all of them can still be traced, but only four are now entire. The most northerly is the ancient Pons ,i7ius, now called Ponte San Angelo. It is a fine structure, composed of three large central and small side arches, and though extensively repaired in 1688, is still substantially as the ancient Romans left it. At a considerable dist.ince below is the ancient Pons Janiculanus, now Ponte Sisto, because rebuilt by the fourth Pope of that name, in 1474. It has four arches. The 572 ROME. ITALY. Other two bridges are about half a mile lower down, where the stream is divided into two chan- nels by the island of San Barto- lomeo, anciently Insula Tiburina. The bridge from the left bank to the island, called the Ponte cli Qualtro Cupi, from a four-hoaded Janus which stood near it, is the ancient Pons Fabricius, and re- tains a good deal of its original structure ; it consists of two large arches with a smaller one between them for the escapeof waterduring floods. The other bridge, pro- perly only a continuation of the one just described, is the ancient Pons Cestius or Gratianus, and now bears the name of the island which it connects with the right bank ; it has a large central arch, and two smaller side ones. The Gates, twelve in number, are only deserving of a passing notice. The finest, the Porta Alaggiove, situated near the south-east corner of the walls, and leading by one of the three streets which meet in front of it to Frascati, consists of a noble arch of travertine ; the Porta San Sebastiano, the most southerly of all, consists of two fine semi-cir- cular brick towers, resting oa foundations of solid marble ; the Porta S(i7i Giovanni, occupying an intermediate position between the two already mentioned, possesses less architectural merit. The high road to Naples by the Pontine Marshes passes out of it. The Porta San Paolo, in the south- west, is considered the most pic- turesque of all the modern gates. Returning again to the east side, we have, to the north of Porta Mag- giore, in turn the Porta San Lo- renzo, formed of two ancient towers ; on the north-east, the Porta Pio, rebuilt in 1564, on the site of tlie ancient Porta Nomen- tana, from the designs of jMichael Angelo ; and on the north, at a short distance from the left bank of the river, one of the finest of all the gates, the Porta del Po- polo, built by Vignola in 1561 from Michael Angelo's designs, and consisting of four Doric columns, with statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, by Mochi, in the intervals between them. This gate is, perhaps, the best point from which to commence, either in describing or exploring the city. The whole space within the walls is divided into 14 rioni, or dis- tricts ; of these only two— Tras- tevere and the Borgo — are on the right bank of the Tiber. The Piazza del Popolo has an Egyptian obelisk in its centre, and two handsome churches in front, standing so fiir apart from each other, and fi'om the adjoining buildings, as to leave room for the divergence of three principal streets ; one in the centre, between the churches, proceeding almost due south, while the other two slant oft" on either side, to the south-east on the left hand, and the south-west on the right. The central street is called the Corso, from the horse-races which take place in it during the Carnival. This street, the finest in Rome, is about 50 ft. wide, and stretches for a mile in a direct line, to its termination in the Piazza di Ve- nezia, near the north foot of the Capitol. It is lined with splendid palaces ; and at all times, but more especially on holidaj's, when its centre is thronged with car- riages, and its side pavement with pedestrians, presents at once a very animated and a very imposing- appearance. The diverging street on the left, above referred to, is the Via Babuino. It proceeds first direct to the Piazza di Spagna, the centre of the stran- gers' quarter. It contains a large number of handsome houses. The ITALY. ROMF. 573 whole of the city to the east of this street, and in the triangular space included between it antl the Corse, beintj situated on tin- liijrh ground above the Caini)us Mar- tins, is well aired and healthy, and is usually selected for resi- dence by American and Knglish visitors. 'Hie number of private palaces and elegant houses wliich it contains cause it to be regarded the aristocratic quarter. 'Iho other diverging street, on the right of the Piazza del Popolo, is the Via Ripetta. It pursues a course nearly parallel, and in parts close to the river, and is decidedly handsome. Several other streets intersecting those already noticed, more especially the Strada di Porta Pia, and another, under tlie successive names of Via Sistina, Via Felice, and \'ia delleQuattro Fontane, are well built, and are leading thoroughfares. Rome cannot boast of many Squares of much merit, thougli several of them are remarkable for their obelisks and fountains. The Piazza del Popolo, with the fine obelisk in the centre, has been already noticed. The latter, of red granite, broken into three pieces, and covered with hiero- fflyphics, once stood before the Temple of the Sun at Heliopolis ; its entire height, including base and ornaments, is about llti ft. The Piazza Navonu, occupying the site of the ancient Circus Agonalis, is about 280 yards in diameter. It has three fountains, one at each extremity, and the third in the centre. The last consists of an immense circular basin, 73 feet in diameter, and an ancient obelisk of red granite, based on a central mass of rock, to which are chained four river gods, representing the Danube, Ganges, j\ile, ancl Plata. The Piazza di Spagua. takes its nsire from a fountain within it, which lias the form of a boat. 'J'he great ornament of this piazza is the staircase of travertine, leading to the church of Trinitade Monti, on an eminence above it. The Piazza del Pusqiiifw, at the angle of the Braschi Palace, near the Piazza Navona, so called from an ancient mutilated fragment which now bears the name of I'asiiuin's statue, has less merit than tame, being the spot where the Romans, excluded from all means of ex- pressing their opinions through the press, have long been accus- tomed to give utterance to them by means of placards. These, though often coarse, are seldom deficient in wit or keen satire, and have hence acquired so much celebrity, that the term pasquinade lias become European.' (See page 602.) One of the most frequented spots in Rome is a public garden, occupying the high ground east of the Piazza del Popolo. A short distance beyond, are the gardens of the Villa Borghese, forming a finely planted and richly decorated parkot three miles in circuit, which are thrown open by the liberality of the proprietor, and form the true public park of Rome, which is the favourite resort of all classes. Among other piazzas may be mentioned the Barberiiii, with the fountain of the Triton; the Capi- tol ; Coloiina, (with the Antonine column); FarnefC ; St. Joint La- teran (with the largest obelisk in Rome, brought here by Constan- tius); Santa Maria Masi^iore, with an obelisk; the Q.nirinai (called Monte Cavallo, on account of the ancient statues which ornament it)2; that in front of the Pan- theon ; Venezia ; and di San Pietro al I'aM'caiio (elliptic, having on its sides the magnificent colonnade of Bernini, and in the centre, two 'buntains and an obelisk, the only 574 ROME. ITALY, one which was left standing on the site of the Circus of Nero.) Having given some idea of the topography of Rome, we will now give a sketch of its Antiquities, presuming tliat the attention of most tourists will first be directed to them. We shall follow, in our brief descriptions, the usual order, which divides them into three classes : 1st, those of the Period OF THE Kings ; 2nd, those of the Period of the Republic ; and 3rd, those of the Empire. Of the time of the Kings. — The Mamertine Prisoxs, upon the declivity of theCapitoline Hilh near the arch of Septimius Se- verus, are entered through a chapel beneatli the flight of steps leading to the cliurch of SaiiGuiseppe dei Falegnami. They consist of a large vault, which appears origi- nally to have had no other en- trance than a square aperture at the top in the vaulted roof; and a lower cell called the I'ullium, in which is a sjmng said to have been produced miraculously by St. Peter when confined here, although liis- torically mentioned long before his time in connection witli Jugurtha, who was starved to death in this prison. Amongst other liistorical personages who have perished here may be named the accom- plices of Catiline, strangled by order of Cicero; Vercingetorix, the Gaulish chief, put to death by command of Julius Ccesar; Sejanus, the favorite of Tiberius ; and Joras the son of Simeon the Jewish ge- neral, in the reign of Vespasian. The construction of these vaults in every way proves their high an- tiquity, and there is no reason to doubt the correctness of their pre- sent appellation. The pillar to which St. Peter was bound is still shown.3 The Cloaca Maxima, the great sewer, was built by Tar- quinius Priscus, 150 years after tlie building of the city, for the purpose of draining the marshes between the Palatine and Capito- line hills into the Tiber. The best point of examination is near the Arch of Janus, from which it is perfect to the river. The point of discharge into the Tiber is still to be seen at a short distance from the Temple of Vesta.'' Period of the Republic. Of this period very few relics remain. We may mention only, tlie Via Appia and other great roads which led fi-om Rome ; some vestiges of Pompey's Theatre; perhaps the Temple of Fortuna Virilis ; and above all the Tomb of the Scipios,^ tlie site of which is to be seen on tlie Appian Way near the gate of San Sebastian, and of which the sarcophagus is to be seen in the Vatican. None of its ancient works re- main on the Capitol, except a corner of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, and a foundation wall be- hind tlie Senators' Palace, form- ing a portion of the ancient Tabu- larium or Record-office. These remains, which consist of enor- mous uncemented blocks of Pepe- rine stone, are of great antiquity, having been laid down as a base- ment for the Capitol in the year of Rome 367. Livy, who notices the work, speaks of it as being considered a remarkable perform- ance even in the magnificence of his day. The two summits of the Capito- linehill, formerly distinguished by tlie names Arx and Capitolium, are still sufficiently well marked. That which was termed Arx — the loftier of the two — was on the south side of the hill, looking towards the river, the Tlieatre of Marcellus, and the Aventine Hill. This sum- mit, to which the modern Romans have given the name of Monte Caprino, is supposed to have been ITALY. ROME. 575 the site of the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. The other, faciiiLr the north — to wliicli the epithet C'aj>itolinm was more peculiarly appropriated, and which is now occupied by the church of AraCa 11, is thoug^ht to have been thi' site of the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. Period of tiik Empirk (from ruins has been turned over by the learned, without their being able to arrive at the exact position of the Forum Romanum. The principal objects in the Forum are t]w Arch of Sevtiniius Seierns, for a lon^ time half covered up, and dis- interreil by Fius IX. in li!0,'>; it is decorated with eitrht columns of lilE nO.MAN lOUlM. 30 B.C. to476of theCiiristian era). The Roman Forvm (Campo vac- cino). This place of assembly of the Roman people was adorned with masjnificent monuments. Its total ruin dates from tlie time of Robert Guiscard, who, called to the succour of Gresrory \"II., made of it a heap of ruins. The present surface of the soil is 26 feet above the ancient level. For three centuries this mass of the composite order; the Temple of Jupiter Toiiatis, three columns of the Corinthian order, still ytandinsr, and more recently at- tributed to that of Vespasian;® the Temple of Concord, eight columns of the Ionic order, the relations of which are uncer- tain;'' — the Column ofl'hocas, iso- lated in the midst of the Forum, raised in honour of that Kmperor; three fine Corinthian columns, 576 ROME, ITALY. formerly attributed to the Temple of Jupiter Stator, the position of which is still the subject of much controversy;^ — on the left, pro- ceedincf towards the Coliseum; the Temple of Aiitoninus and Faustina (now columns of the portico of the church of San Lo- renzo in Miranda) ; (the columns, partially uncovered, only rise half their height above the level of the soil.)^ Further on is the Temple of Romulus and Remus, a circular building serving as the vestibule to the Church of Saints Cosmo and Damiano ; on the side are three gigantic arches (the Temple of Peace, or Basilica of Constan- tine) ; *" behind the Church of Santa Francesca Romana, are the ruins of the Temple of Venus and OF Rome, built by Hadrian." Near the capitol, on the south, is the Tarpeian Rock,'^ best seen from the garden of the Casa Tar- peia, or the Via di Tor di Specci. The Arch of Titus is at the culminating point of theVia Sacra, adorned with low reliefs, the finest monument of its kind which has come down to our times ;'^ and still further on, the Arch of Con- stantine, the low reliefs and in- ferior sculptures of which attest the rapid decline of art.''' Tlie CoLisEUJi,'* is an immense amphi- theatre, commenced by Vespasian, on his return from his war against the Jews, continued, and dedicated by his eldest son Titus, a.d. 80, and completed by his youngest son, Domitian, who succeeded Titus. It was calculated to hold from 80,000 to 100,000 people to witness the exhibition of those gladiatorial and wild-beast com- bats which so much delighted the Roman populace. At its inaugu- ration by Titus, 5,000 wild beasts, and 10,000 captives are said to have been slain. The early Chris- tians stained it with their blood. The destruction of the pile is said to have been commenced by Totila in 526 for the sake of the metal clamps of its stones, but it was still nearly entire in the 8th century ; in the 14th and later it was worked as a quarry. It is built principally of travertine, and presents externally four orders of architecture super- imposed one upon the other in the four stages or stories. The lower one is Tuscan or Doric, the second Roman Ionic, the third and fourth of the foliated Corinthian or composite order, but all the architectural decorations indicate a degraded style. The lower stages consist of arcades of semi- circular arches, separated by 80 pilasters, each with its proper entablature, but the roof of the upper is flat. Some of the con- soles which supported the awning poles still remain. The northern portion is the best preserved, and enables us to restore in imagi- nation the whole. Its form is elliptic, the extreme length of its longer axis being about 584 ft., and of its shorter, 468 ft. ; the arena is 278 by 177 ft. The arches of the four principal entrances correspond with the axes of the building above men- tioned, are wider than the others, and probably led to the seats of distinguished visitors in the po- dium, or place of honour, in which a particular place, called the sug- gestum, was set apart for the emperor. The nature of the connection between the corridors of the lower stages, the concentric rows of seats which sloped down from tlie gallery to the arena, and the arena itself, will be apparent to the visitor ; but the uses of the substructures are purely conjec- tural, although it is quite possible that they may have served as dens for wild beasts, and as dungeons ITAI.Y. ROME. 577 for the early Christians destined for their i>rey. The a'Sthetic im- pression is tliat j)roduced by massiveness and mai^iiitude, and is well expressed in the quotation made use of by Byron : — cause of its dilapidation cannot be better described than in the same writer's words : — "Arches on Arches! as it were that Rome, Collecting the chief trophies of her line " While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand ; When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall; And when Rome falls, the world." It is, by common consent, the grandest ruin of old Rome. The Would build np all her triumphs in one duine. A Ruin, yet what ruin ! from its mass. Walls, palaces, half cities have been rear'd ; Yet oft the enormous skeleton ye pass, o o 578 ROME. ITALY. And marvel where the spoil could have appear'd." His otlier allusions to this edifice, in the same great poem, are too long for quotation here, but those in the " Deformed Transformed," are sufficiently concise and sug- gestive : — " And those scarce mortal arcLes, Pile above pile of everlasting wall. The theatre where emperors and their subjects, (Those subjects Bomans) stood at gaze upon The battles of the monarchs of the wild And wood, the lion and his tusky rebels Of the then untamed desert, brought to joust In the arena, (as right well they might, When they had left no human foe un- conquer'd) ; Made even the forest pay its tribute of Life to their amphitheatre, as well As Dacia men to die the eternal death For a sole instant's pastime, and ' Pass on To a new Gladiator '.'" The Pantheon was built by Agrippa, the son-in-law of Au- gustus. The portico is decorated with sixteen columns of the Co- rinthian order ; the bases and ca- pitals are of white marble, and the shafts of single blocks of black and white oriental granite, nearly 5 feet in diameter and 46 feet in height. The Corinthian capitals are the finest which have come down to us from ancient time. The Pantheon was divested of its bronze-gilt tiles by the Em- peror Constans II., and was further despoiled by Pope Urban VIII, The interior is a perfect circle of 142 feet diameter, which is about equal to the height, half of which is that of the dome. The building is lighted by a circular opening 28 ft. in diameter, in the centre of the vault. The walls are 23 ft. in thickness between the recesses. It is to the fact that Pope Boni- face IV. obtained permission from the Emperor Phocas to convert it into a, Christian church so early as 608, dedicated to Santa Maria ad ftlartyres, that its perfect pre- servation is due. The two bell- turrets were added by Bernini. Raphael, Balthazar, Peruzzi, Pie- rino del Vaga, and Annibale Ca- racci are buried in it.'^ The Theatre of Marcellus. There are some remains of arcades which are admired as architectural mo- dels, hut the site of this theatre is occupied by the Orsini palace. Eleven Corinthian columns in mar- ble, much damaged, and of which the original destination is uncer- tain, now form the facade of the dogaiia di terra. The columns of Trajan and An- toninus belong to the list of the most remarkable monuments of ancient Rome. The finest, the column of Trajan, is situated in the Forum of Trajan. It is 141 ft. high, and the shaft is composed of twenty-three blocks of Carrara marble, presenting externally a series of low reliefs spirally ar- ranged, representing subjects taken from the wars of Trajan against the Dacians, and com- prising 2,500 human figures, be- sides horses, fortresses, &c. The summit may be reached by an in- ternal staircase. The statue of Trajan, by which it was originally surmounted, has been replaced by one of St. Peter.''' The shaft of the Column of An- toninus is formed of twenty-eight blocks of marble, and, including its base and capital, and excluding the pedestal of the statue, is the same height as that of Trajan, of the general conception of which it is an inferior reproduction.'* Another celebrated ruin is that of a small circular temple, for a long time known as the Temple OF Vesta (piazza della bocca della Verita). One of the twenty marble Corinthian columns by which it was surrounded is ITALY. ROME. 579 wanting." In the neijjhbmir- hood are the so-called t<'in[)le8 of Ceres and Proserpine, (now the church of 8anta Maria in Cosmedin), and of Fortuna Vi- rilis (Church of 5?anta -Maria , Eu;iziaca).'-'" Baths. — The Baths and I'alace of 'iitus were the first gallery of ancient painting restored to the found in the baths of Titus. It is supposed to represent the mar- riage of Peleus and Thetis, and derived its name from the Aldo- bradini gaUery to which it origi- nally belonged. Tnii JJvrirs of Caracai.i.a, com- menced by that J",m|)eror a.i>. '215?, next to the C'oliseum, i)resent the most striking proof of the gran- THE PANTHtON. world ; for here it was that, in the time of Raphael, not only tlie group of the Laocoon was dis- covered, but several subterranean chambers also, containing some very beautiful specimens of painted ceilings, in excellent preservation. The baths were fitted up in the most costlj- manner, that which was first designed to promote health liecoming an object of luxury and magnificence. The famous Nozze Aldobran- dini now in the Vatican, was deur of ancient Rome. From what is left, we may form some notion of the sj)lent[id Cella So- /eai-is, of which Spartian has given us such a superb description. The architects of his time, he says, were unable to explain the scien- tific construction of its ceiling. '' Cellam Solearem architecti ne- gant posse uUa imitatione, qui fiicta est, fieri." The ceilin?, wlncii was flat, IS supposed to have consisted of a framing of brass lattice-work, which, froiu its 580 ROME. ITALY. resemblance to tbe interlacing of a sandal latchet, gave to the apart- ment the name of Cella Solearis. While the lower orders mixed in the same baths, rooms were fitted up for the more fastidious, with bathing vessels of granite, por- phyry, and basalt, many of which may "still be seen in the Vatican. 1 hese Baths occupy an area of 140,000 square yards. The baths, properly so called, occupied an oblong rectangular space 720 ft. long by 375 ft. wide, and were surrounded by porticos and gar- dens. The Antonine aqueduct, leading from the great Claudian aqueduct over the Arch of Drusus, supplied the baths with water. It was in the baths of Caracalla that some of the finest pieces of sculpture were discovered, the famous Torso of the Vatican, the Farnese Hercules, the Flora, the Callypygian Venus, and the group of Dirce and Amphion, known by the name of the Toro Farnese. The mosaics of " the Athletes" in the Lateran Museum were found here. Baths of Diocletian.-^AU the other baths have been stripped of their magnificent columns ; but the great hall of these — the Pina- cotheca as it is called, or, accord- ing to others, the Cella Calidaria — has been converted into a church by M. Angelo; and the superb granite pillars, each consisting of a single block, 43 ft. in height, still remain as they stood in the days of Diocletian. Tins church — ^kuown by the name of S. Maria degli Angeli — is in the foi-m of the Greek cross, a form much more favourable than the Latin for displaying the whole interior of the building at one view. Hence, they who object to the plan of St. Peter's, adduce this structure as an instance of what St, Peter's might Lave been, had M. Angelo's plan of the Greek cross been adopted. " These baths," says Forsyth, " co-exist- ing with others of equal extent, will appear too extravagantly large even for ' the most high and palmy state of Rome,' until we reflect on the various exercises connected with the bath, on the habits of the people, the heat of the climate, the rarity of linen, and the cheapness of bathing, which brought hither the whole population of the city." Aqueducts. — These magnifi- cent works, which form the most prominent feature in the land- scape to the south-east of Rome — lor there you meet, at every turn, "Aqueducts Among the groves and glades rolling along. Elvers, on many an arch high over- head — " " have," as Burton observes, " been cited as a proof that the Romans were ignorant of that principle in hydrostatics, that water will always rise to the level of its source ; and their patient industry has been ridiculed, in taking so much trouble to con- vey, upon arches of brick or stone, what might have been brought in pipes underground. . . . Perliaps, when they first erected arches for this purpose, they were not aware that the labour might have been spared ; but it is diffi- cult to deny that many Roman aqueducts were constructed in this manner after the principle was known. The Meta Sudans, a fragment of which still exists near the Coliseum, is said to have been a fountain ; and it is evident that the water which sup- plied it was not raised by mere meclianical means. Pliny men- tions 105 fountains (salientes) in Rome ; and, from the Latin term nAiY. HOME. 681 for a fountain, it appears certain tliat tlipv rpserabk'd those of modern times." Of tlie first a(|UO(liicts, the Aqua Appia, n.c. 311, and Aiiio \'etus, \ B.C. 272, no vestiges remain. Tlie Aqua Marcia beg^.m at a foint between Tivoii and Subiaco. ts whole length was about 56 miles, for about six of which it pointed out to some soldiers by a yount,' f^irl. It is mostly sul)tir- rancous. It sup])lies tlie fountain of Trevi and twelve others. 'I'ho Aqua Ahietiiia, built by Auijustus, restored by the Poi>es, and now called A(|ua Paolo, supi)lies the fountains of St. Peter's, ami turns several mills on the .Faniculuin. The A^iia Ctauilia w;is commenced TEMi'Lt Oi VtoiA. ■was sustained by arches which are still one of the ornaments of the Campa<:^na. It was built 145 B.C. The Aqua Tepula dates from 126 B.C. ^'estig;es of it may be seen near the Porta S. Lorenzo. The Aqua Julia was built by Augustus, B.C. 34. Kemains of it may be seen outside the Porta JMaggiore, on the left, in the city wall. From tliat point it passes to the Porta S. Lorenzo. Aqua Virgo derives its name from the tradition that its source was by Caligula, a.d. 36, and finished by tlie Kmj)eror Claudius .*.n. 50. Its whole length was 46 miles, of which 10 miles was u])on arches. A line of these arches, 6 miles in length, stretches across the Cam- pagna, and forms the grandest ruin outside tlie walls of Rome. These arches were emitloyed by I'ope Sixtus \'. in his' Aqua Felici, which supjjlies the foun- tains of Termini, or dell' Aqua Felice, the fountain of the Iri- tone, that of the Monte Cavallo, 582 ROME. TALY. and many others. The quality of the water is considered as the best which is brought to Rome, after that of the Aqua Marcia. The longest of all the aqueducts was the Anio Novus, built also by Claudius. Its length was 62 miles, 48 of which were under- ground. Traces of it may still be seen above those of the Aqua Claudia, over the Porta Mag- giore. The Palace of the Casars. — The Imperial Palace had its beginning in the modest mansion of Horten- sius. Suetonius tells us that Au- gustus "lived at first near the Roman Forum, in a house which had belonged to Calvus the orator ; and subsequently on the Palatine- hill, but still in an unpretending house of Hortensius's, remarkable neither for extent nor ornament : its short porticos consisted of pil- lars of Alban stone, and the rooms had neither marble nor ornamental pavement to boast of. He con- tinued to occupy the same bed- chamber, winter and summer, for more than forty years." It was burnt down during the reign of Augustus, by whom also it was rebuilt. Some additions were afterwards made to it by Tibe- rius ; and Caligula carried it on as far as the Forum, by means of a bridge. The temple of Castor and Pollux was now converted into a sort of vestibule to the pa- lace, and porticos of great extent were annexed to it. This struc- ture, too, was destroyed by fire, and its magnificence was after- wards completely eclipsed by Nero's Golden House, which oc- cupied the whole of the Palatine, and extended as far as the Esqui- line-hill, covering all the inter- mediate space where the Coliseum now stands. When it was finished the emperor is said to have ex- claimed, " that now at last he bad begun to live like a man ! " Thus, "from Augustus to Nero is the period of its increase ; from Nero down to Valentinian III. its his- tory is but a succession of fires, devastations, and repairs." In the villa close to the Farnese gardens, and occupying the centre of the hill, are a series of subter- ranean chambers, evidently con- structed to atford support to the buildings erected on the ridge of the hill. These substructions were discovered in 1775. Ruins of greater importance are to be found on the left of the villa. The Farnese gardens were pur- chased in 1861 by the Emperor Napoleon I. of the ex-King of Naples, and excavations are being made under the direction of Cav. Rosa. (Admission on Thursdays by entering name in visitors' book ; no fee.) ihese excavations have already led to important disco- veries. The names of many of the un- earthed ruins .ire involved in obscurity, but they serve to show the grandeur and magnificence of the edifices which once occupied the place. (Photographs of the ruins are seen in the museum, and may be purchased at the print- shops.) In the museum, M. Costa has formed a collection of tlie most interesting objects dis- covered in the course of the exca- vations, either in the original or in casts. Among the objects are several fragments of statues, lamps, coins, &c. On the bank of the Tiber, a few hundred yards below the quay, tlie place where marble is landed, were discovered, in 1867-8, a great number of blocks of marble of various descriptions, brought there by the ancient Romans. 1 he ruins uncovered indicate that here were the Emporium and Marmorata used in the first and second centuries. ITALY. ROME. 583 Two blocks of mnrble recently discovered in tlip ,M;irmor;ita bear inscriptions indicatiii;,'' that they were brought there in tlie reig'ns of Nero and Vespasian, a. d. 67 and 77. Amongst other vestiscps of ancient Rome must be mentioned those of the arches of the Goldsmiths, near the cliurcli of .San Giorgio, said to have been raised bj' the silversmiths and cattle-dealers to the family of Septimius Severus, ramid of Caius Cestius ; ** tlie tomb of Ctcii.ia Mktkli.a, the wife of Crassus, on the Appian way, sufficiently ]>erfect and solid in construction to admit of its incor- poration as one of the defences of a fortalice erected by the Savelli family in the beginning of the thirteenth century, subsequently occupied and extended by the Ca-tanis, to which circumstance it owes its medieval battlements;*^ the tomb of the Hcipios, near the (JAsILl. 1)1 ANGKLO. and of Janus Quadrifrotix, near to the last,intlie\elabrum, supposed to have been one of the many arches constructed as j)laces of shelter at junctions of streets, or, according to others, intended as places of" sale ; the Arco dei Pan- tani ; the arcade of the entrance of the Forum of Augustus, adjacent to the forums of Trajan and .1 ulius Caesar 5 the ^lausoleum of Au- gustus, between the \'ia dei Pon- tefici and the Strada di Kipetta, of which only the brick wall on which the tumulus witli its trees formerly stood, remains; the Mau- soleum OF IIadriam (now the Castle of S. Angelo);'^^ the Py- Porta San Sebastiano, on the left of the Ajipian \Vay, which, after their extinction, the great consular families of the C'ornelii, C'ossi, and J.entuli, seem to have used as a burial-place; finally, the \'ia ArpiA itself, remarkable for the number of interesting sepulchral monuments which still exist. It was commenced by Appius Clau- dius ( a-cus, the Censor, 312 years H. c, and was the highway through Capua and Bnindusium. Many excavations and most interesting discoveries have been made upon it during the present papacy. The site of tlie Circus Maiimus, which, under Constantine, could hola 584 ROME. ITALY. 250,000 spectators, still exists. It is in the valley called Murzia, between the Palatine and Aven- tine hills. The place which it occupied is 2,560 ft. long- by 545 ft. wide. It was the scene of the Sabine rape. There are no longer to be found traces of the Temple of Jupiter Cupitolmus, which is believed to have occupied the site of the church of Ara Cccli. Obelisks. — These ancient mo- numents contribute much to the character of Rome. The finest are those of thePiazzedel Popolo, del Vaticano", di San Giovanni Laterano, and di Navona. The House nf Rienzi, called by the Romans the house of Pilate, is at the end of tlie Vicolo della Fontanella, near the Temple of Fortuna Yirilis. It is of brick, two stories high, and covered with columns and ornaments of various dates. The inscriptions on an arch at one side of the house have given rise to considerable controversy among antiquarians; their true meaning is matter of conjecture. The house was in- habited by Rienzi in 1347. Basilicas. St. Peter's. — This Basilica, by far the most magnificent church ever constructed, stands on the right bank of the Tiber, near the western extremity of the Borgo, in a hollow space between the Janiculum and the A'atican, and so closed in by them and a ridge behind, which connects them, that the church, on three of its sides, up to the lieight of the nave, is virtually concealed. It is ap- proached through a piazza, the buildings along which are con- cealed by a superb colonnade, forming two semicircular porti- cos, and consisting of 284 co- lumns, with an entablature on which 192 statues of saints, each 11 ft in height, stand sentinel. The colonnade was designed by Bernini, during the pontificate of Alexander VI. Some idea of the magnificence of this co- lonnade may be formed, when we find that through the centre rows of the pillars two car- riages may pass abreast, and that each of the statues which surmount themis 11 ft. in height. Forsyth has spoken in high terms of this structure : " How beauti- ful the colonnades, how finely proportioned to the church, how advantageous to its flat, forbidding front, which ought to have come forward, like the Pantheon, to meet the decoration. How grand an enclosure for the piazza, how fortunate a screen to the ignoble objects around it. But, advance or retire, you will find no point of view that combines these acces- sories with the general form of the church. Instead of describing its whole cycloid on the vacant air, the cupola is more than half- hidden by the front — a front at variance with the body, confound- ing two orders in one, debased by a "gaping attic, and encumbered with colossal saints." In the centre of each of the colonnades rises a magnificent fountain, from the design of Maderno. The waters, after having been forced into jets, are received into a basin composed of a single block of granite. Between these fountains rises the obelisk of the Vatican, one of tlie most remarkable monu- ments of antiquity preserved in Rome. It appears to be one of the two obelisks mentioned by Herodotus as having been erected by Phero, the son of Sesostris, on his recovery from blindness. " So great was the anxiety of the mo- ITALV. 7?().irE. 585 narch that tlio pillar slioukl be raised utiiiijurt-d, that he fastunt'd his own son to the summit in order to render the engineers more careful in performing this operation." From Kg-ypt it was transported by Caligula to Rome, a vessel being built for the juir- pose of conveying it. The pillar was dedicated by Caligula to situation. Of the difficulty of this task sonic idea may be formed from a statementof the magnitude and weight of the monument. The lengtli, exclusive of the j)yra- mid at the apex, is u]iwards of 77 ft. — the transverse section at the midille more than 7 J ft. S(|uare; the solid contents are 166 cubic yards of granite, weigh- m_ ,, X TOMB OF C/ECILIA HETELLA. Julius and Augustus Caesar, and erected in the Circus of Caligula, afterwards called the Circus of Nero — a position not far from that which it now occupies. 'J'he pre- cise spot is within the church, and is marked by a square stone in the passage leading from the sacristy to the choir. In tlieyear 1586, Si.xtus V. directed the obe- lisk to be removed to its present ing upwards of 332 tons; to which must be added four tons, the weight of the pyraniiil at the top. It has been calculated to be fourti^en times the weight of the largest block of stone at Stone- henge, and is the largest wrought stone in Kurope. That St. Peter's appears at first sight less than it really is, i* an observation at least as old as 586 ROME. ITALY. Addison, wlio, like many others, endeavours to account for it on the principle, that so much atten- tion has been paid to preserve the relative proportion of the parts, that for some time we do not per- ceive the largeness of the scale. "The proportions," says he, "are so vi-ell observed, that nothing appears to an advantage, or dis- tingushes itself above the rest. It seems neither extremely high, nor long, nor broad, because it is all in a just equality. As, on the contrary, in our Gothic cathedrals, the narrowness of the arch makes it rise in height, or run out in length; the lowness often opens in breadth, or the defectiveness of some other par- ticular makes any single part appear in great perfection." This, some regard as a merit; others, on the contrary, who consider it the object of art to make the small appear great, rather than the great appear small, look upon it as a detect. In spite of all the objections that may be brought against it, St. Peter's is still the noblest Structure ever reared to the wor- ship of tlie Supreme Being ; and the man who has not seen it can hardly form a notion of what a " temple made with hands " may be. So many beauties does it possess in detail, and so striking is it as a whole, that we may well overlook a few fancied or even real blemishes. The interior surpasses the wildest dreams of the imagina- tion : it is a spectacle that never tires ; j'ou may visit it every day, and always find something fresh to admire: — "Rich marbles — richer painting — shrines where flame The lamyjs of gold— and haughty dome which vies In air with earth's chief structures, tho' their frame Sits on the firm-set ground — and this the clouds must claim !" The extreme length within the walls is 607 ft., and its width 445 ft. ; the heiglit from the pavement to the cross is 458 ft. Owing to these immense proportions, obj ects within the area lose much of their effect by contrast, and appear comparatively diminutive. Thus the Baldacchino, a splendid bronze canopy over the high altar, and immediately under the dome, though 120 ft. high, appears not more than 30 ft. ; and the chair of St. Peter, behind the altar, seems scarcely to rise from the pave- ment, though 70 ft. above it. The same effect is perhaps still more strikingly manifested in regard to the Mosaic paintings on the interior of the great dome, which, seen from below, are so much diminished, that the pen in the hand of the Prophet in one of the lower compartments, seen from below, seems to be less than 18 inches in length, though in reality 6 ft. The cupola of St. Peter's has always been represented as one of the most sublime efforts of archi- tectural science. "The Cupola," says Mr. Forsyth, "is glorious. Viewed in its design, its altitude, or even in its decoration, as a whole, or as a part, it enchants the eye, it satisfies the taste, it expands the soul. The very air seems to eat up all that is harsh or colossal, and leaves us nothing but the sublime to feast on, a sublime peculiar to the genius of the immortal architect, and com- prehensible only on the spot." "But thou, of temples old, or altars new, Standest alone — with nothing like to thee — Worthiest of God, the holy and the true. Since Zion's desolation, when that He Forsook his former city, what could be, ITALT. ROME. 587 Of earthly structures, in his honour piled. Of a sublinuT aspect ! JIajesty, Power, Glory. Strength, and Ueauty , all are aisled In this eternal ark of worship nndeQIed. •' Enter: its grandeur overwhelms thee not ; And why! it is not lessen'd; but thy mind, Expanded by the genins of the spot, Has grown colossal, and can only tind A tit abode wherein appear enshrined Thy hopes of immortality; and thou Shalt one day, if found worthy, so de- fined. See thy God face to face, as thou dost now His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by his brow." Upon the four pillars (in one of which is a spiral staircase), and the ^eat arclics which sustain the dome, is a magnificent entabla- ture, upon the frieze of which is the famous inscription: "Tu es Petrus et super hanc petram aediticabo ecclesiam meam; et tibi dabo claves re;jrni ccrlorum." ( Thou art Peter, and upon this rock will I build my Church; and to thee will 1 give the keys of the king- dom ot Heaven). At the extre- mity of the great nave, on the right, is the statue in bronze of St. Peter, said to have been a statue of Juj>iter Capitolinus ! Under the great dome, and the high altar, is seen The CItupel of the Confession, where are preserved the remains of St. Peter. Paul ^'. caused this chapel to be ornamented by Carlo Mademo : 14'2 lamps are always kept burn- ing. I'lus \1. is interred in it. His kneeling statue in marble is a fine work by Canova. The High Altar, under a canopy, executed ( 16:53) after the designs of Bernini, is all in bronze gilt, supported by four twisted columns of the composite order, 90 ft. high. The chair of St. Peter, at the bottom of the tribune, is a bronze chair, enclosing; the wooden one, whicjj is said to have been used by St. Peter and his suc- cessors. Four fii,''ures by Memini, which support the cliair, represent four doctors of the churcli, St. Ambrose, St. Augustine, St. Athanasius, and St. John Chrysos- tom. On each side are tombs : on the left, of Paul lII.(Farnese) tlie work of G. della Porta ; and on the right, of Urban \'11I. ( Bar- berini), the work of Bernini. Coming from the tribune, turn- ing to the right, and goinosite is tlie monument of Urban VIII., with a bronze st^itue of the Pope, and marble figures representiuj; Jus- tice and Charitv. Proceeding alonc^ the south side of the church by the left transept, we see the tomb of Alexander VIII., with his bronze statue, and figures of Religion and Prudence in marble. Near this is the altar of St. Leo, over which is the enormous mar- ble bas-relief, representing the Pope threatening Attila with the vengeance of SS. Peter and Paul, if he approached Rome. Further on towanl the transept, is the tomb of Alexander \'1I., on which tlie Pope is represented kneeling, surrounded by figures representing Justice, Prudence, Charity, and Truth. The figure of Truth was oriicinally so nude, that Innocent XI. ordered the drai>erv wiiich now covers it to be added. We 588 ROME. ITALY. now enter the south transept, and see tlie mosaic copy of Guido's Crucifixion of St. Peter. Over the altar of St. Peter and St. Andrew, farther on, is the mosaic copy of Roncalli's Ananias and Sapphira, the original of which is in the Church of S. INIaria degli Angeli. Opposite, over the door, is the monument of Pius \'III., representing- him in a kneeling posture, and our Lord behind, in the act of giving liis benediction, with St. Peter and St. Paul on either side. The mosaic over the altar of St. Gregory is a copy of Sacchi's Miracle of St. Gregory. Close by is the tomb of Pius VII., by Thorwaldsen. It represents the Pope seated between two figures, representing History and Time, and lower down, two figures representing Power and Wisdom. Opposite is the mosaic copy of Raphael's Transfiguration. En- tering the left aisle, we see the tomb of Leo IX., opposite that of Innocent XL Passing the Capella del Coro, we see under the arch the tomb of Innocent VIII., a fine work in bronze. Opposite is the stucco memorial of Gregory XVI., and in the niche occupied by it, repose, until tlio death of his successor, the remains of the last Pope. Passing the chapel of the Fresentazione, we see on t!i(» right, over the door leading to the roof of the church, the monument of INIaria Clemen- tina Sobieski, wife of .Tames 111. the Pretender. Opjxisite is the monument of the Stuarts by Ca- nova, representing the entrance to a mausoleum, guarded by genii. Beginning at the entrance door of the church, and following the north side, we see in the chapel della Pieta, the marble group of Michael Angelo, " the Pieta," re- presenting the Virgin with the dead body of the Saviour on her knees. It was executed by M. Angelo, at the age of twenty-four, but having, it is said, been as- cribed to a IVIilanese sculptor, M. Angelo vindicated his claim to the work by carving his name on the girdle of the Virgin. On each side of the last named chapel, are two smaller chapels, closed with bronze doors. In the one on the left are preserved the relics of St. Peter ; the other contains a marble column, said to be the one against which our Saviour leaned when he disputed with the doctors in the Temple at Jerusalem. Farther on, in the aisle, is the statue of Leo XII., and opposite is the monument of Christina of Sweden. In the adjoining chapel, is the mosaic copy of the martyrdom of St. Sebastian, by Domenichino. Next, under the archway, are the monuments of Innocent XII., representing him sitting, sup- ported by Charity and Justice, and that of the Countess Matilda. In the chapel of the Holy Sacra- ment, is a beautiful tabernacle of lapis lazuli and gilt bronze, resembling the circular temple by Bramante, in the church of S. Pietro in Montorio. In this chapel is the tomb of Sixtus IV., underneath which Julius 11. is buried. Under the adjoining arch is the tomb of Gregory XIII., whose statue is supported by figures of Religion and Power. Opposite is the tomb of Gregory XIV., consisting of a simple urn. On the great pier is the mosaic copy of the Communion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino. In the chapel of the Madonna del Soccorso, is the tomb of Gregory XV., and on one side the superb monument of Gregory XVL Near it is the tomb of Benedict XIV., with his statue, and figures representing Science and Charity. The next tomb is that of Clement ITALY. ROME. 589 Xni., by Canova. Tt represents the Pope ill tliP attitudf of pra_yt>r ; on one siilc is tlic ligiiro ot Ut-atli, with torch reversed ; on the other, Heligion hohling the cross. At the angles are the celebrated lions, one sleeping, which are /esteemed amonaj the finest works of' modern sculpture. Beyond is the mosaic copy of Guido's St. Michael. That of S. Petronilla, at the end of the aisle, is from Guercino's paintinictures of the socles in the colour of bronze, but they are now effaced. Tlie suite of fifty- two pictures, particularly known as those of the toggie of Rapiiael, representing- the principal subjects of the Old and Aew Testaments, is in the gallery of the second story ; they occupy four by four, the vaulted arches of thirteen arcades, and were executed about 1516-8, by his pupils. The Staiize di Raffaele are four in number, and overlook the court of the ]?elvedere. The chrono- logical order of their execution is as follows. Camera della Segna- tura. Stanza d'Eliodoro, Stanza dell' Incendio, Sala di Constan- tino. Our sj)ace renders it im- possible to give a list of the sub- jects represented. PiCTi-RE Gallery of the Va- tican. The collection of oil paint- ings in the Vatican, though small, contains two of the most cele- brated pictures in the world — the Transfiguration, by Raphael; and the Communion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino. The Traiisjigunition, properly SO called, comprising the Saviour, Rloses, and Elias, and the three Apostles prostrate on the Mount, seemingly overcome by the awful scene before them, forms the smallest portion of the picture ; the principal field being occupied by a totally different subject — that of till,' demoniac boy, whom the disciples had vainly endea- voured to disjiossess of the evil s])irit, and whom our Saviour afterwards cured on coming down from tile .Mount. Tlie great height of church jiictures is said to have given rise to the fashion which prevailed in those days, of includ- ing two subjects, a celestial and terrestrial one, in the same picture ; but whatever Wiis the cause, cer- tain it is that we find in many of the finest works of the earlier mas- ters, a heavenly subject above, and an earthly one below. The CommuiuDii of St. Jerome may, in the opinion of many, dis- pute the palm of excellence with the Transfisifuration. " Domeni- chino excelled less in invention than in the other brandies of the art, and, in this celebrated work, is said to have copied from a si- milar performance by Agostino Caracci." Buonaparte had both these paintings transferred to the Louvre. The Madnnna del Foligno is an- otlier double j)icture. Tiie .Ma- donna herself, like all Raphael's Madonnas, is a beautiful crea- ture ; and the wliole picture is remarkable for its preservation and its colouring. Sigismund Conti, one of the household of Julius 11., who, according to Va- sari, ordered this work, is repre- sented in a kneeling posture among the figures in the lower part of the picture. Among the other paintings we will mention only — Coron.\iion OF THE Virgin, by Raphael, one of his first works, executed at Citta di Castello. Andrea Sacchi, Co.MM UNION OF St. JeROME. I'oilS- sin, Martvrdo.m of St. Erasmus, 596 ROME. ITALY. Guido Reni, Martyrdom op St. Peter. Valentino, Martyrdom OF St. Processi s and St. Mar- tinianus. Michael Angeto di Ca- ravaggio, the Entojibment. Ti- tian, Madonna, Angels and Saints. Baroccio, Ecstasy of St. Michaelina. Guercino, Un- belief of St. Thomas, Pieta, an expressive painting from the AI- drovandi Gallery at Bologna. Ferugino, a Resurrection of Christ (it is believed that one of the sleeping soldiers is a por- trait of Raphael, as a young man ; another, running away, that of Perugino, painted by Raphael himself). School of Perugino, Adoration of the Magi (Ra- phael is said to have vs'orked at this). Pinturicchio, Coronation OF the Virgin. C. Crivelli, Dead Christ, with the Virgin, St. John and the Magdalen. Ce- sare da Sesto, the Virgin, St. Au- gustine AND St. John the Evan- gelist. Garofolo, Holy Family AND St. Catherine. Paul Vero- nese, St. Helena. Tw^o pictures by IMurillo, given by Pius IX. a HolyFa^mily, and the Return OF THE Prodigal Son. Tapestries OF Raphael. These are placed in a long gallery over the gardens of the Vatican. These tipestries, designated under the names of Arazzi, on account of the reputation which the city of Arras had so long enjoyed for this kind of work, were ordered by Leo X. for the Sistine Chapel. Raphael commenced the cartoons for them in 1515. They were executed in distemper by himself and pupils. Seven out of eleven of these cartoons, purchased by Charles I. and put up for sale after his death, were bought by Cromwell for £300, and are at present at the South Kensington Museum in London. They were produced in Flanders, under the direction of B. van Orley, a pupil of Raphael. Pauline Chapel. — This chapel, near the Sistine, and opening from the Sala Regia, is used only in great ceremonies. Jt has two remark- able frescoes by Michael Angelo, much injured by the smoke of candles used in the religious cere- monies, representing the Conver- sion of St. Paul and the Cruci- fixion of St. Peter. Museum of the Vatican. — The entrance is at the exti-emity of the lower Loggia. The first corridor, 230 yards in length, is almost wholly occupied by Christian and pagan inscriptions and monuments. Then follow the Chiaramonti Mu- seum (founded by Pius VIL ; comprising the Braccio Nuovo, and the Corridore Chiaramonti) ; a precious collection of ancient mo- numents, statues, busts, low re- liefs, &c. The pavement is adorned with ten ancient mosaics. The Pio - Clementino Museum, so named from the Popes Clement XIIL XIV. and Pius VJI. who formed it oftliecollectionsof Julius IT. Leo X. Clement VII. and Paul 111., VII. Puis VI. is the person, of all others, to whom this museum, the finest in the world, is most indebted. It com- prises the vestibule ( in which is the celebrated Torso^'' and the sarcophagus of Scipio Barbatus, ) the round vestibule ; the Hall of Meleager^^; the octagon court or Corlile of the Belvedere, con- taming the Apollo Belvedere^b, the celebrated Laocoon ^, and Mercur}-; the Hall of Animals; the Gallery of Statues (in which are Ariadne, Meander, and the Amazon) the Hall oj Busts. the Cabinet of Masks, the Hall of the Muses, the Rotunda; the Hull of the Greek Cross; the Hall of the Biga; the Gallery of Candelubra. The Etruscan Mm- ITAl.V. ROME. 597 seum, the E^pptian Museum, the Cabinet oj' tfie I'apiiri, and Cabinet of Mf.laU. rill' INI.VNUFACTOnY OF .Mo>ak:s, is to be Sfeii before noon by tickets to be liad through a consul or banker. The Vatican LinnARY,oft;3,500 manuscripts, Oriental, Cireek, and Latin, and only about 30, 000 printed volumes. Gaudkns ofthe Vatican, the Casino del Papa in the middle, an ele|yant and ori<;i- nal casino, built for Pius IV. by the architect Pirro Lii;orio. The palace of THE QiiiiivAL, com- menced in 1574, enlarj^ed and em- bellished by successive popes, contains line suites of apartments and some remarkable paintings. The Capitol. — In the midst of the Piazza, an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, in bronze, the only entire antiiiue ecjuestrian statue known. 1 liree separate buildings surround the piazza of the Ciipitcd; the palace of the Senator ; the palace of the Con- S"rvators; and on the left the Capitol ^^luseum. .Michael Angelo commenced the two last ; and G. della Porta completed them after his designs. The Palace ' of the Senator, in the name of which seems to be retained a souvenir of ancient Rome, was erected by Boniface IX. The Palace of the Conservators (municipal magis- trates), contains a museum of antiquities, and a g;illery of paint- ings (Pinacothek ), in which is the master-piece of Ciuercino: St. Pe- tronilla. It contains works by Guido, An. Caracci, Tintoretto, Perugino, Domenichino, Paul Veronese, Poussin, and other celebrated masters. The IMrsLiM of tiik Capitol, commenced by (Element XII., contains inscriptions, fragments of the plan ot ancient Rome, bronzes, busts, statues, the Halls of the Emperors and of the Phi- losophers, the Dying Gladia- tok'-"', the Amazon, the Capito- i IAN Venus ^, the celebrated DKONZE \V£-,Mosc8 strikinj^ the rofk ; ill the side niches are statues of Aaron and Gideon. uaUs, already described. On this road (15 milesdistant from Uonn-) is the ancient Ostia. KOLNTAIN Of llltVl. Excursions in the Neighbour- hood OF Rome. 1. Beyond the Porta S. Paolo. At the right, and immediately adjoining tliis gate, is the pyramid of C'aius Cestius, and close by it the Protestant Cemetery. About lA miles from the gate is the cnurch of St. Paul ivithont the 2. Beyond the Porta di San Sebast'uino. The road leading from this gate is the ancient Via Appia, a mili- tary road constructed u.c. '212, by Appius Claudius Ca;cus, and ex- tending from Rome to Capua, and afterwards to Brundusium. Soon after leaving the city a fine prospect is enjoyed, including the 600 ROME. ITALY. Campagna, the ruins of tlie aque- ducts, and the mountains. On each side of the road are numerous ancient tombs ; the most impor- tant of which are those of the Scipios, the Metelli, and tlie Ser- vilii. About half a mile beyond the gate is a massive ruin, called tlie tomb of Horatia. At the bifurcaiion of the Via Appia and the modern Strada della Madonna del Divin' Amore, is the little church of Domitte quo vutlis, so called from the tradition that St. Peter, fleeing from Rome, met our Saviour at this spot. On the floor of the church is a marlile slab with a fiic-simile of the foot- marks of our Saviour, the original of which is in the basilica of St. Sebastian. After passing the churcli, the road to the so-called fountain of Egeria brandies off. The Fountain of Kseria is a iNympha'um, originally covered with marble, and was the shrine of the brook Almo, which flows by it. A niche in the wall of the fountain contains a statue of the river god, and in tlie niches of the side walls are also statues ^'. We soon pass the church of St. Sebastian erected over the cata- combs, where the remains of so many martyrswere buried. A little further on, on the ojiposite side of the road, is the circus of Maxentius, built a.d. 311, and used for chariot races. Its length is 1482 ft., its breadth 2-14 ft. Ascending the hill we soon reach the tombof CseciliaMetella, a conspicuous object which has already been described. The Appian way from this point to Albano (7^ miles), is le.«s in- teresting. Ai.iiAKo(Ho1els: Europa, Posia), which may also be reached from Rome by railway in one hour, is a small town, in a healthy situa- tion, and is a favourite resort of the Romans during the summer months. It occupies the site of the ruins of Pompey's villa, and the extensive site of the Atbanum of Domitian. Many interesting ruins exist in and about the town. 3. Beyond the Porta St. Giovanni. Tombs on the J^ia Latina. Like the Via Appia, this road is bor- dered by tombs, several of which, excavated in 1862, are very in- teresting on account of their de- corations. This road leads to Frascati, which may, however, be reached by railway from Rome, in half-an- hour (Hotel: diLondra). This is a favourite summer resort of the Ro- mans. Its situation on tlie slope of the mountains is healthy and invigorating. 'J'he town itself is uninteresting, and its origin is comparatively modern ; its great charms are its shaded and well watered villas, among which are the Villa Aldobrandini, the pro- perty of the Borghese family, the grounds of which are adorned with cascades and beautiful trees ; the Villa Piccolomini, and the Villa Ruffenella, now the property of King Victor Emmanuel, and believed to have occupied the site of the celebrated Villa of Cicero; the Villa Conti, with fine foun- tains and beautiful views, and others. A pleasant road leads to Tuscu- linn (which may be reached in half-an-liour), the birthplace of the elder C'ato, and a favourite re- sidence of Cicero. A few heaps of ruins are all that remain of the ancient town. Outside the walls are the ruins of a small amphi- theatr(\ Some ruins excavated in 1861 are called the Villa of Cicero. A Forum and theatre, well preserved, were excavated by Lucien Bonaparte, in the rear ITALY. ROME. 601 of whioh_is a reservoir in four compartments. The ancient castle stands on a rock 200 ft. above the town. The view from tliesununit is very fine, embracing on theriti,EOFTnESinvL,aud by others that of Vtsr.A, is a cir- cular building surrounded by an open hall of Corinthian columns, formerly numbering 18, ten of which remain. It is situatedabove THE WATKiuALT.. Near to it is an oblongtein])le,in front of which are four Ionic columns, believed by some to have been dedicated to Tiburtus, by others to the Sibyl. From the terrace of the first- named temple, a beautiful view of the falls is obtained. An iron gate, at the last-named temple, ad- mits visitors to the grotto of Nep- tune, formerly the cliannel of the main branch of the river Anio. The path to the falls (donkeys cost 1 to 1 .J franas, no guide ne- cessary) affords fine glimpses of the great fall. In consequence of an inundation in 1826, which de- stroyed part of the \'illage, a new courS'' has been constructed /or the Anio, through the rock by means of two shafts, to prevent the recurrence of similar disasters. The new waterfall thus formed is 320 ft. in height. The grotto of Aeptune by this change lost the greater part of its water, but the fall is still very fine. From the last-named grotto, visitors ascend to the Syren's grotto. The path then ascends to the principal stream. From the circular terrace, (usually reached by the higiiroad,) an admirable view of the great fall is ob- tained. A path on the right bank leads thence to the hermitage of S. Antonio, which commands a view of the small waterfall, which here turnsseveral mills, established in the ruins of the so-called Villa of Macenas. Traces of ancient villas are seen on the neighbour- ing slopes. The villa d'tste, at the entrance of the town, erected for the Cardinal d'Este, still re- tains traces of its former splen- dour. It has beautiful gardens, terraces, grottos, and fine avenues of trees. \ ILLA OF Hadkiav. — fTo be seen by an order to be obtained at the palace of the Duke of Braschi, its owiiiT, at Rome.) This villa is situated at the base of the hill at Tivoii. The various buildings are said to have extended, inde- pendent of the gardens, over a space seven miles in circumference. Here Hadrian imitated every thing that had taken his fancy during his progress through the distant pro- 602 ROME. ITALY. vinces of the empire. And here he brought together the different edifices and institutions of other countries : — "All things that strike, ennoble — from the depths Of Egypt, from the classic fields of Greece, Her groves, her temples — all things that inspire Wonder, delight ! "—Rogers. Accordino^ to Spartian, each por- tion of the villa bore the name of the town or district from which it was copied. Thus, there were the Lyceum, the Academus, the Stoa, the Poecile, the Prytaneum, the Tempe, all borrowed from Greece ; the Canopus and its hideous sta- tues, copied from similar objects in Egypt. Of all these various edifices nothing now remains but a mass of rums, exhibiting all the confu- sion of a demolished town. These ruins, however, which enable us to trace the vestiges of baths, por- ticos, a library, apa/crstra, nhip- ■podrome, a menagerie, a namna- chia, an aqueduct, tlieatres both Greek and Latin, temples for dif- ferent rites, and every appurte- nance requisite for an imperial re- sidence, are sufficient to attest the ancient magnificence of the villa. Notes. Note 1. — Pasquin. The muti- latedstatue so called, before whose caustic jests even popes and prin- ces trembled, and wliich has given risK to tlie term Pasquinade adopt- ed by all nations, is supposed to have been a fine specimen of Gre- cian sculpture ; it was discovered in the 16th century, and placed at the corner of the J^alazzo Braschi, where several streets meet; it de- rived its present name from a fa- cetious tailor, Pasquino, who by his satirical jokes drew people to his shop. In time, when writ- ten papers containing philippics against the powerful nobles of Rome, or satires on the govern- ment, were affixed to this statue, which stood near his house, it was said that the spirit of Pasquin spoke. The natural love of the Roman people for wit and satire caused these spirited placards to be highly relished, and the popes in vain endeavoured to stop the insolent sallies of Pasquin. Once he was condemned to summary punishment by Adrian VL, who ordered the statue to be burnt and cast into the Tiber. Pdor Pasquin was however rescued by the sug- gestion of one of the courtiers, who hinted that the ashes would turn into frogs, and croak louder than ever from their watery abode. Many of these shafts of satire were directed against the popes. The following was on Leo X. : " Do you ask why Leo did not take the sacrament on his death- bed?— He had sold it!" Pasquin thus addressed Paul IIL: " Formerly money was given to poets to sing: how much will you give me, Paul, to be silent?" W hen Christina of Sweden died in Rome, this was Pasquin's epi- taph for her: " A queen without a kingdom — a Cliristian (Christi- ana) withoutfaith — a woman with- out modesty." At the time when the French were in possession of Rome, the caustic jester thus welcomed them: "The French are all rob- bers. . . Not all — but Buona parte (a large portion)." Note 2. — Monte Cavallo. In the square before the palace are the two marble horses, with their attendant figures, wliich some suppose to be Castor and Pollux ; while others insist that the one is a copy from the other, and that ROME. 6QS each group is a r<'prescntatioii of Alexander tumiiij^ Kucijplialus. If we may believe the inscrip- tions, which are as okl as Con- stantine, in whose baths tliey were found, they are the work of Phidias and Praxiteles. Ikit this we cannot believe, if we suppose them to represent Alexander tam- ing Buce[>halus; for, accordinji; to Pliny's account, Phidias flourislied in the eighty-third Olympiad, while Alexander was not born till theoni'-hundrcd-and- sixth Olympiad, ninety-two years afterwar'is. From the same authority we learn that Praxiteles flourished in the one-liundred-and- fourth Olympiad, eijjiit years be- fore the birth of Alexander; we can hardly sumiose, therefore, that the former lived to execute a statue of the latter. That they are really the works of Phidias and Praxiteles is, to say the least, very unlikely ; for the two groups seem evidently to have been con- temporary works, whereas about a centurv elapsed between the time of Phidias and Praxiteles. " These grou|is, "says .Maihews, *' are full of spirit and expression ; but are not the men out of jiro- portion t Tiiey appear better able to carry the horses, than the hor- ses them. The Egyptian Obelisk, which is placed between tliem, was brought hitlicr, at an enor- mous expense, by Pius \l. from the mausoleum of Augustus. NoteS. — Maiiiertiue h'nsoii. The prison consists of two cells, one above the other, to which the only entrance was by a small aperture in the roof of the upper cell ; while a similar ajierture in its floor led to the cell below. The up]>er cell isseven-and twenty feet in length, by twenty in width; the lower, which IS of an oval form, is twenty by ten. i he height of the former is fourteen feet, that of the latter only seven. Sallust (De Hello Cat. c. 55) gives us tlie following descri])tion of it : — " In the prison, known by tlienann-of the Tullian prison, on descending a little, you come to a dungeon on the left, sunk to the depth of about twelve feet. Dead walls on all sides of it render escape impossible : above it is a cell vaulted with stone. Its uncleanliness, its darkness, and its noisome smell, make it a truly disgusting and horrible abode." 'I'hese d ungeons, it seems, served as the state prisons, being ap])ro- priated to persons of distinction. It was here, as we learn from Sallust, that the Catiline conspira- tors were confined and executed ; it was iiere that Jugurtha perished of hunger; and that I'er- seus, the last of the .Macedonian kings, dragged on a miserable ex- istence, till, towards the close of life, he was removed, at the inter- cession of his conqu'^ror, Paulus /I-wnilius, to aless frightful abode. Here, too, St. Peter and St. Paul were immured — so at least the guide would have you believe — and how can you refuse to give credit to his statement, when, in attestation of it, he produces two standing miracles? "St. I'eter, it seems, struck his head violently against the side of the prison, and instead of fracturing his skull, as an ordinary man would have done, he indenti-d the wall; and in the solid rock the eyes of the faithful still discern a tolerable impression of his ffatures ' Again, it hap- pened that, during his iraj>rison- ment, many converts came to be baptized by him, and, as there was no wati'r in the place, Peter caused a fountain to spring up in the centre of the dungeon — which fountain still remains." Note 1. — VIntica Maxima. Ac- cording to Livy's account, the work was commenced by Tar- 601 ROME. quinius Priscus, who " drained tlie low grounds of the city about the Forum, and the valleys lying between the Palatine and Ca]iito- line Hills, by carrying sewers from a higher level into the Tiber." (Lib. i. c. 38.) But the drain was imperfect, and the work, according- to the same authority, was completed hy Tarquinius Superbus. " Tarquin the Proud made the great subterranean cloaca to carry off the filth of the city — a work so vast, that even the magnificence of the present age has not been able to equal it." —(Lib. i.e. 56.) Note 5. — Tomb of the Scipios. The tomb is in a garden, not far from the gate of St. Sebastian, to the left of the Appian Way. A dark winding path leads to the interior of the vault ; at ])resent, however, little remains to be seen, except a series of dark, damp chambers; the inscriptions and monuments having been removed to the Vatican, and copies substi- tuted in their stead. The tomb is cut out of that soft porous stone called tvja, so common in the south of Italy; and in the walls are the recesses where the sarco- phagi were placed. The most interesting monument found here, and now deposited in the Vatican, IS the sarcophagus of L. Scipio Barbatus, great-grandfather of Scipio Africanus, who was consul in the year of Rome 456. Note 6. — Temple nf Jupiter To- nans. On the declivity of Capi- toline Hill where it slopes towards the Forum, are the three columns said to be the remains of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans. Sue- tonius says that Augustus erected a temple of that name at the foot of the Capitoline Hill, in gratitude for his escape from lightning while on a march by night during his exj>edition against the Cantabri ; on which occasion his litter was struck, and a slave, who bore a torch before it, killed on the spot. — ("Vit. Aug." c. 29.) That structure was repaired by S. Se- verus and Caracalla ; and as the word estituer is still legible on the frieze of the ruin in question, it may, perhaps, be a part of the very temple erected by Augustus. The pillars, which are of white marble, are fluted, of the Co- rinthian order, and 4 ft. 4 in. in diameter. On the lateral frieze are carved several of the instru- ments of pagan sacrifice, all of them used in the rites of Jupiter — another reason for referring these remains to the Temple of the Thundering Jove. Near this ruin stands a single marble column of the Corinthian order, erected by the Exarch Smaragdus to the Emperor Phocas, which, from the beauty of the workmanship, is suj)posed to have been taken from some ancient edifice. Note 7. — Temple of Concord. At a short distance from the 'lemple of Jupiter I'onans stands the portico, which, as long since as the fifteenth century, passed for the remains of the 'I'emple of Concord. Under that designa- tion, too, it occurs in Middleton's celebrated " Letter from Rome." " For my own part," says he, " as oft as I have been rambling about in the very rostra of old Rome, or in that Temple of Concord where TuUy assembled the senate in Catiline's conspiracy, L could not help fancying myself much more sensible of the force of his elo- quence, whilst theimpression of the place served to warm my imagina- tion to a degree almost equal to that of his old audience." The portico consists of eight granite columns of the Ionic order — six in front and one on each side — with bases and capitals of white ITALV. ROME. 605 marblp. TJie architrave bears the foUowiug inscription : — SKNATVS. rOPVLVSlJVl:. nOMANVS INCENDIO. CONSV.MPl VM. UESTITVIT. This temple was nearly perfect as late as the comnienci'ment of the fifteenth centurv, and its de- striiction is tlie more to bi- re- gT-etted, inasmuch as ii seems to have been an act of wantoum-ss. If we may believe l*ogg;io, the greater part of the structure was, at that period, burnt to make lime — a circumstance vvliicii may, pt;r- haps, serve to account for the total disappearance of so many other noble buildings. Note 8. — Temple of Jupiter Stator. — The tliree j)illars at the foot of the Palatine Hill are usually assigned to the Temple of Jupiter Stator. Tiiough no more tiian three columns with a small portion of the frieze and cornice now remain, tliere is scarcely any- thing remaining in Rome better calculated to inspire us with an idea of the magnilicence of the ancient city, i hey are suj)])oseiter Pluvius sending down rain on the fainting army of .M. Aurelius and tlmnderbolts on his enemies, which is the greatest confirmation j)0ssible of the story of the Christian Legion, and will be a standing evidence for it, when any passage in an old autlior may be supposed to be forged.' " Note 19. — Temple of VefUi. This elegant little structure, though said by some to be of a date prior to the age of Augustus, has no great evidence to produce in sup- ])ort of its pretensions to sucli an- ti(piity. It is of a circular form, and was surrounded originally with a colonnade of twenty fluted pillars of the Corinthian ordi'r and of Parian marble, one of wiiicli has since perislied : the cornice also, and the ancient roof, have siiared the same fate. In Ovid's time it was covered witii a brazen or bronze roof. 'I'lie walls are composed of blocks of Parian marble, so neatlv fitted together a.s to look like one continuous mass. The columns are 3.3 ft. in height ; the circumference of the colonnade is 170 ft. It w«is burnt in Nero's fire, and repaired by \'esj)asian or Domitian. It was burnt again in l'.)l, and Julia Pia, wife of Septimus Severus, repaired it. This is, probably, the building still in existence. It was conse- crated as a Christian church, and is called S. Stcfano delle Carozze, or the Madonna del Sole. Note 20. — Temple of Fortttna Viriiis. This temple is said by some to have been built by Ser- vius TuUius, in gratitude for his exaltation to the rank of a mo- narch, though originally a slave. But tiiough tills building may, jierhajis, claim nearly etjual an- ti(iuity with the one erected by Servius TuUius, it cannot be the very same structure ; for Diony- sius of Halicarnassus tells us that, shortly after Servius's death, the Temple was burned down, and that liis statue carved in wood, and gilt, was the only thing saved from tilt,' flames, 'llie front is de- corated with four elegant fluted Ionic columns. Of the decora- tions of the sides, consisting of two pillars (including tlie angular ones) and five half-pillars, six are still visible ; the other side is blocked up by buildings. Note i?l. — Mausoleum of Ha- drian. "The Emperor Hadrian," says Eustace, " who delighted in architecture and magnificence, de- teriiiinedto rival, or more probably to surpass, the splendour of Au- gustus tomb, and erected a mau- soleum which, from its size and solidity, wascalled .Aloles I ladriani (Hadrian's Mole). As the Cam- pus Martius was already crowned with tombs, temples, and theatres, he selected for its site a sj)ot on the opposite bank of the river, at the toot of the Vatican Mount; where, on a vast quadrangular platform of solid stone, he raised a lofty circular edifice, surrounded by a Corinthian portico, supported 610 ROME. ITALY. by 2-1 pillars of a beautiful kind of wliite marble tinged with j)ur- ple. The tholits, or continuation of the inner wall, formed a second story, adorned with Ionic pilasters; a dome, surmounted by a cone of brass, crowned the whole fabric, and gave to it the appearance of a most majestic temple. To increase its splendour, four statues occu- pied the four corners of the plat- form, 24 adorned the portico and occupied the intervals between the columns ; an equal number rose above the entablature ; and a proportional series occupied the niches of the second story between the pilasters. The whole fabric was cased with marble, and the " statues were the works of the best masters. This monument was considered as the noblest sepul- chral edifice ever erected, and one of the proudest ornaments of R ome, even when she shone in all her imperial magnificence." Note •22.— Tomb of Cains Ces- tius. Though the tombs on tlie Appian Way have a tendency to the pyramidal form, yet tlie only actual instance of a pyramid at Rome is the tomb of Caius Ces- tius, close to the Porta S. Paolo ; where it forms a part of the wall itself — Aurelian having drawn his new line of walls so as to cross it. The height of it is 121 ft. ; the width at tlie base 96. It is built of brick cased over with white marble, now blackened by age. In the interior are some paintings on the walls, consisting of five female figures, in tolerable pre- servation. Nothing is known of tliis Caius Cestius except from tlie inscrip- tion on the monument itself, wliich informs us that he was one of the Epidones, whose business it was to prepare the Lectisternia, or ban- quets for the gods, on occasion of any public calamity or rejoicing. Note 25.— Tomb of Ccecilia Me- tellii. The Roman tombs usually consisted of a vault, in whicli the urns and sarcophagi were depo- sited, with a chamber above, in which the statues or effigies of the dead were placed, and the libations and obsequies performed. Some were places of family interment, others solitary toniljs, like tliat of Csecilia Metella on the Via Appia. This latter consists of a round tower, resting on a square base- ment. The circular part is still cased with stone. Tlie original entrance is buried under the soil ; but an opening has been made above, by which the interior may be examined. Tliough the top of the roof has been broken in, enough remains to prove it to have been of a conical shape, the walls converging internally. The sepulchral vault was below the present level of the soil ; nor was it till the time of Paul III. that it was opened, wlien the sar- cophagus, now in the Farnese Palace, was found in it. A golden urn, containing the ashes, is said to have been discovered at the same time; but this has disa]>])eared. Tlie square base of tliis tower has long since been stripped of its stone covering. The wall of the tower itself, the interior of which is of brick, is twenty feet thick. The cornice is decorated with fes- toons and rams' heads alternating witli each other. The modern name of the tomb, "Capo di Bove," is by some supposed to be derived from an ox's head — the arms of the Gaetani family, by whom it was converted into a fortress — whicli was affixed several centuries ago to tlie side of the tower next the Appian Way. " There is a stern round tower of other days, Firm as a fortress, with its fence of stone, ITALY. ROME. 611 Such as »n Iffmy's baflled strength delays. Standing wTTh half its battlements uluue. And Willi two thousand years of ivy j; row II, The garland of eternity, where wave The green leaves overall by timeo'er- thrown; — What was this tower of strength I with- in its cave What treasure lay so locked, so hid ! A woman's grave." xN'ote 2i.—Tlie Torso. The f:i- mous I'orso was the favourite study of.M. Antfelo and AnnibalcCarac- ci; the huter of whom, according to l.anzi, couUl sjive an accurate dra\viii|r of it merely from nu'mory. From its mutihitetl state — for, as its namemiporlSjit Lsameretrunk, without head, arms, or lej^s — it can be interestint:: only to the eye of science. It is s -ated on a lion's skin, and, from certain peculiari- ties of style, it is thought to re- pre.sent Hercules in repose, and raised to immortality. " Tiie de- velopment of tiie nerves and muscles,'' says Winckelmann, " or their total sujjpression, is that which distinguishes Hercules still doomed to labour, from Hercules purified from the gross -r parts of matter, and admitted to the happi- ness of the f;ods. It is thus, for instance, that, in the Hercules Farnese, we recognise the man, and the god in the Hercules of the Belvedere ; for, in the latter, the veins are indistinguishable." 'l"he Torso is inscribed with the name of .\pollonius, an Athenian sculptor. ISote '25. — The celebiuted Me- leager, with his dog and boar's head, and surrounded by mutilated statues, stands in a small apart- ment near the Torso. " One of the finest ancient statues in Rome," observes Addison, " is a Meleager with a spear in his hand, and the head of a wild boar on one side of him. It is of Parian marble, and yellow as ivory." \ote '26. — The Apollo, according to the more receivi.-d opinion, is represented iis having just shot his arrow. A feeling of transient indignation and disdain swells his nostril, andslightly curls his upper lip ; but it is the unperturbed dis- dain of a superior being — tlie dig- nified air of vengeance tliat ani- mates without distorting : — " In his eye .\ud nostril beautiful disdain, and might, And raiijesty, flash their full Ight- niugs by. Developing in that one glance the l)eity." — BvRO.v. \'arious, however, have been the opinions of diiferent individuals a.s to the character in which Aga- sias — if .Vgasias really executed this work, for there is no direct evidence of the fact — intended to represent Apollo. But the pre- vading r»otion is, that he has just slain the ser])ent Python, and this is the opinion entertained by Winckelmann, and, as we may add, by the painter West. " My God !" — he unconsciously exclaimed, at first sight of this celebrated statue — " a young .Mohawk Warrior !" The Apollo was found at An- tium towards tlie end of the fifteenth century, and placed in this mus'um by .fulius H. The left hand and arm are modern, and inferior to the rest of the figure. The right ann, and foot, and ankle, were also fractured, and have been but indifiereutly repaired. Note '27. — Laocnon. In the group of the Laocoon,the distorted face, the sUirting sinews, and dis- tended limbs of the father — who, together with his sons, is entwined in the im-xtricable folds of the serpents — offer a most appalling picture of human sufl'ering. It is, however, objected by some critics, that the father seems more alive to his own sufferings than those of his sons; a circumstance which, 612 ROME. ITALY, though it may make the expression less heroic, does not make it less natural. VVinckelmann admires the statue for expressing the ex- act contrary of this. " Andjirst around the tender boys they wind, Then with their sharpen'd fangs their limbs and bodies pi'ind, The wretched father running to their aid With pious haste, but vain, they next invade : Twice round his waist their winding volumes roU'd ; And twice about his gasping throat they fold — The priest thus doubly choked — their crests divide. And towering o'er his head in triumph ride."— Dryden. Note 28. — The Dyivg Gladiator. He is represented naked, reclining on a shield, with a short sword, and a broken liorn by his side, and a cord knotted round the neck. His demeanour is manly, patient, and resigned ; he supports himself on his left arm, and seems labour- ing to suppress the expression of agony. " The great masters ofGreece," observes ('unningliam, in his Lives of the British Sculp- tors, " knew that violent action is ungraceful, that it distorts the features, squares out the joints, and destroj'S, to a certain degree, that harmony of nature which they worshipped : tliey therefore, in general, discarded gesture, and strengthened the mental expres- sion — witness the resigned agony of the Dying Gladiator — the faint struggle of tlie vanquislied Lao- coon — the tranquil woe of A iohe. To every unprejudiced eye, those noble works are, from their digni- fied serenity, inexpressibly mourn- ful : more vigorous action would, I apprehend, diminisli the poetic pathos which they embody." \\ hether this wonderful statue be a laiiuearian gladiator, whicli, notwitlistanding Winckelinann's criticism, has been strenuously maintained by the Abate Bracci, who accounts for the cord round the neck, but not for the horn, which it does not appear the gla- diators themselves ever used ; or whether it be a Greek herald, as Winckelmann confidently as- serted ; or whether we are to take it for a Spartan orbarbarian shield- bearer, according to the opinion of his Italian editor, Hobhouse thinks it may fairly be considered a copy of that master-piece of Ctesilaiis which represented " a wounded man at the point of death , in wliich you might see how much of life was yet remaining in him." INIontfaucon and i\Liffei thought it the identical statue; butthatstatue was of bronze. The Gladiator once formed part of the collection at the Villa Lodo- visi, and was purchased by Cle- ment Xn. It affords another in- stance of Michael Angelo's skill in restoration: he lias contributed an arm, a foot, the upper lip, and the tip of the nose. Note 29. — The Capitoline Venux is supposed to be coming out of the bath, and bears some re.sem- blance to the Medicean. The at- titude of this latter statue seems to have been a favourite with the sculptors. Several copies of it are to be seen in the Florentine gallery ; and Ovid, as we hare al- ready seen, alludes to it in the following lines : " Ipsa Venus pubem, quoties velamina panit, Protegitur Isevasemireducta manu." Art. Amor. ii. 613. Note 30. — Spada Palace. The great curiosity here is the colossal STATUE Of PoMPEY — Said to be that very statue at the foot of which " great Ca-sar fell." " It is easier to decide tliat the statue cannot be Pompey's, than to find it an owner among the emperors. By some, indeed, it has been as- signed to Augustus; but the face ROME. 613 accords much Ixaicr witii wliat we may tUncy to liave been the features of the " homiiiem inte- grum et castum et ^raveni," tlian with any of the busts of Autcustus, and is too stern for liiui, wlio, according to Suctonnis, " was beautiful at all piTiods of his life." Then again, it was found on the sj)0t where the siatuf of I'orajiey stooil, and bears a strong resi'mblance to tlie hi-ad on his medal, pul)lished in the Museo Romano. As to the objection of the globe in the hand, tliere was, perhaps, notliing very extraordi- nary in the aduhition of marking the extent of his con(|Uests, by putting that symbol into the liaiuls of a victorious geiu'ral " who found Asia Minor the boundary, and left it the centre of the Roman cnijiire. At all events, so imposing is the stiTii maj»sty of tlie statue, and so memorable is the story, that the play of the imagination leaves no room for the exercise of the judg- ment ; and the fiction, if a ttction it is, operates on the spectator with an efl'ect not less powerful than truth." \ote 31. — Fountain of Egeria, " It seems at least probable tliat the long dell in which this foun- tain is situated is tlie J-.gerian val- ley of Juvenal, and the j)ausiiig- place of Umbritius, notwithstand- ing most of his commentators have supposed the descent of the satirist and his friend to have been into the Arician grove, where the nymph met IIippolytus,and where siie was more peculiarly wor- shipped. But the step from the Porta Capena to the Alban Hill, a distance of fifteen miles, would be too considerable ; and nothing can be collected from Juvt-nal but that somewliere near the I'orta Capena was a sjiot in which it was supposed Numa held nightly consultations with tlie nymph, and where there was a grove and a sacred fountain, and fanes once consecrated to the Muses; and that from this spot there was a descent into the valley of Egeria, where were several artificial caves. It is dear that the statues of the Muses made no part of the de- coration which the satirist thought misplaced in these caves; for he exjiressly assigns other fanes {de- liibni) to these divinities above the valley, and, moreover, tells us that they had l)een ejected to make room for the Jews.' — Grant. It is probable that the cave now shown may be one of these artifi- cial caverns, of which, indeed, tliere is another a little higher up the valley, but a single grotto of Egeria is a mere modern inven- tion, gTafted u])on the application of the epithet Egerian to these tiymphaa in general. Route 134. FLORENCE TO SIENA. 60 miles, tst clasf, 10'Q5 francs ; ^2nd, 760 francs. The route from Florence to Em- poli is described in Route 131. ^5ij)vf:EAVlXG Empoli the J^^iiVSi? railway follows forsome t|j^J^^ time the valley of the ^jL^i'^S Elsa. Passing Osteria, Bianca, Castel Fiorentino (11 miles), Certaldo (15 miles), where Boccaccio resided and where he was buried, we reach Poggibonsi ('Jl miles), a rapidly growing town of 8,000 inhabitants. Passing through a long tunnel we reach Siena (Hotela : Aqnila Xeru, Anne d'lnghilterra). It is situated on three hills. Its lofty site gives it, at a distance, a very pleasing appearance; but the streets are irregular and narrow, the houses generally ill-built, and the palaces unim|)osing. 614 Route 13^.— FLORENCE TO HIENA. The most remarkable buildings are the Cathedral, one of the most characteristic specimens of Italian Gothic, with a curious fat^ade in- laid with black, red and white marble, and covered over with sculptures and decorations; se- veral other churchf'S, many of them imposing structures, and almost all rich in vi'orks of art ; the Palazzo Piihblico, an extensive pile with a lofty tower, now oc- cupied as public offices, courts of law andpr'Sons,and finely situated in tlie Piazza del Campo, a large open space sloped like an ancient theatre for public games. There are palaces in almost every varintF of simple and compound Gothic; among others, the Palazzo del ]\Iagnifico, the Palazzo Buonsig- nori, and the Palazzo Piccolo- mineo, remarkable for its elegant balcony, and considered one of the finest in the city ; the ]iublic library containing 50,000 volumes, the hos])ital of Santa RIaria della Scala, one of the most ancient in Europe and containing 300 beds, and a university founded in 1330. Siena is the see of an arch- bishop, the residence of a military governor, the seat of civil and criminal courts. Its foundation is of very ancient date, as attested bj' its Etruscan walls, of which portions are still visible ; but its chief interest is derived from the important position v^hich it occu- pied among the early Italian re- publics. It is said to have once had 1.50,000 inhabitants, and re- peatedly sent large armies from its gates. It has given birth to a great number of remarkable indi- viduals, and furnished no fewer than seven Popes. The railway towards Rome is completed as far as Orvieto, which may be reached in about 4^ hours from Siena. Route 135. ROME TO NAPLES. 1624 miles; 1st class, 30'95 francs ; "211(1, 23-10 Jraiics ; 3rd, 14-85 francs. (Passports must be vised by the ])olice before travellers leave Rome.) EAVING Rome, we proceed for some dis- tance parallel to the course of the Appian Way, passing the ruins of Roma Veccliia on the left. At Ciamphio (8f miles) the line to Frascati turns off (see Route 133). Be- yond Marino (10 miles), on the right, is the SolJ'atara, giving out sulphuretted hydrogen gas in great quantities. As we ap- proach the Alhan hills we pass through vineyards and oliveyards, and through cuttings made in the currents of lava wliich have flowed down from the now extinct vol- canoes of these hills. We pass La Cecchiiia (18 miles), the station for Albano and Lai-iccia, and reach V'klt.etri (26 miles), (Ho- tel: La l.ocanda del Galln), popu- lation 11,0;)0. This town is beautifully situated on an emi- nence, below Monte Artemisio. The ancient A^olscian town of Velilra, u]ion the site of wliich Yelletri stands, was engaged in hostilities with Rome in the time of Ancus Martins. Coriolanus fortified it, and it was finally dismantled by the RomariS, B.C. 338, and its leading men transported to Rome. The an- cestors of the Kmperor Augustus came from Velitra". Amongst the objects deserving of mention CO o > O N N a o N. : 5^^^ -^ -i 7 •^^k ■■A ' . ^%^^vn.^»1/ "^C ^''T5 's;4: ? ^^ I^^.Hc ;v-^_^'. sJ- Appletoii's Eiiropeau Guido Book LES V^>^.J- , ^^n ''•*,.. i^lV..v.. (-Imrchvs. MM tUIP.rt. ■a V D IV AVI i aihrfifaL (,f.^atntrroj Elll '* .Elll V • t^n^0 nti^giitrr mil y.T Mtntr Mi.rl, II IN .( .'. ■tf.^rUa ViU K III y/.' J- r.^u K III J .-ini\nn».iMt» . Fill y- .1 hrho j,l „ ,„„ F III .i J . tntmni* . ihbmU f 11 .t ^ u.f.n. Dill ti. SS.JpajloU. F. Hi ■".9 w,^.,rt,,. E IN D \ '■ S^it^ritif r ,"',•./. I". 1 N s -' ih.\^,„ DIV :, .'-' Trr^ja II III /y '' Pamenic* . Elll Jl i^/iiivnttr^/ l> II .'' Fiitppo Neri iirr^U-**''. Elll :i3 MimtirriJtSt^U t-^^ /U^^^^r u 11 N i .*' Franr^^C0 «// Pa.'-Ia . U \ U 11 l^ 11 Ur^/ii nii&aa fTrin.t* r.,*f,.*.w i)r\- rheab-es 3 i>n 4 E II .'->. .' r,r/. 11 \ 5 ____«_ Evmti^riijtit Em ?(.• *'■ /'<0r/tn,f I) N ^ , ina^yiarf EIV it- ff.nir^ 11 N 7. V- P^^p^.'stJu El\ 's .' /•f'lfinittij,' K II Jl /ntwranaf* nn '4 yi,'r^tt/un iin J» f. Itfrrnxa . K III ■if /..nA K \ t' S** Maria J^l Ctmnnf l- 1\ it yit*it0 niN / . tifff^ ijra*!^ DIN ■/' ^itftrimnr Kill M.hIIiV X Willis l.oiulo Roulie a mi: to xaples. (ii") is tlie tall hi'lt'rv of Sant^i Muiia in Trivio, built in l-'loJ, as a tliank- offHriiiLi;, lis is siipjiosod, for dc- livcraiice from tiic ])la;^iii' which destroyi'd ii <;r.'at part of the popii- lation in 1.'U8 From thf bal- conies of till' t'liliizzo Luncellotli, beautiful views can be obtained. The Catheilrid, rebuilt in ItJliO, contains a painting of the Corona- tion of the \irgin, and representa- tions of incidents in the lives of the Saints, by Giovanni Bnlducci. The district about X'elletri is celebrated for its wine-;. We pass, on the left, the villa;_a! and lake of tiiulianello, and, a sliort distance from \'t4lmi>ntiiiie (. '>.")', miles), the ruined Costlfol I'ininhiiniru, before reachinij; Sef^iti (-k) miles). The town, of .■J,701) inhabitants, is 3 miles from the station. It was coloniz 'd under Tanpiinius Pris- ons. Parts of the ancient walls remain, to-jether with a tjate known as the Porta Saracinesca, and another, nearly filled up, called the Pi'vlu in Liiciiiu. Pass- iiiu;, auionj;st other places, Feren- tino, where many Roman remains may be traced, Fro^iiuone ( (JO miles), and Ceccaiw (64 miles), we reach Cii'rano (76 miles), the last station in the Pajjal States before they became, in 1871, a component part of the kinsifdom of Italy. The town of ( 'oprnno is situated on the rij^ht bank of the Liris. The view is very extensive, reachinp^ to Monte Casino in one direction, and throuj;li the valley of the Liris to the lieiglitsof the Abrnzzi Apennines. We cross the Liris and reach Isoi.ktta (77 miles). i\ ear San (i ! u m \ so ( 9'3\ miles), otherwise called (V/mho, is the maffniticent Momisleru of Monle (.'«.8 miles) is the site of ancient Capua. Here are the ruins of an a'ii|ihitheatre. At Maildaloni (1-16 miles) the line to Benevento and Caiiipo Basso branches off. From Cancetio ( 1-19^ miles) a line goes to Aola and Sanspverino. \Ve pass throuj;h a fertile district to Casalniioiio(^256^ miles), beyond which we have a fine view of the hill of St. Khno, and part of the (Jity of Naples. Passinij on the riifht the ureat cemetery on the hill of Popgio Reale, and on the left the railway to Benevento, we reach Napms ( 16'Ji miles), (Hotels: DE Ri'ssiF,* dii Lonne, d'Angle- terre, i'uiled Stiiies, d'Aim'riifue, Washini^loii, Gran Bretagne, Vitto- rin, des Ktrangers), population 600,000. Few cities are more dis - 616 Route 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. ITALY. tinguished for the beauty of their sites. Its position is in the form of an amphitheatre, on tlie shores of a bay which seems as it were shut up by the island of Capri, 17 miles to the south, and by Pro- cida and Ischia, on the other side. On the east, Vesuvius raises its isolated summit ; its sides dotted over to one-third of its height with houses, while below it lie tlie villages of Portici, Resina, and Torre-del-Greco. On the other side is the hill of Posilipo with the tomb of Virgil. At a distance are seen the villages of Castel- lammare and Sorrento, the latter the birthplace of Tasso. The city is situated on the slope of a range of hills fronting the south and east. Its suburbs extend from Portici on the east, to the promontory of Misenum on the west. Its general form is oblong, and its circumference, with its suburbs, is nearly 18 miles. The appearance of the interior of the city is in general pleasing ; its principal streets are wide and well built, and the public edifices are so lofty and solid as to give it an air of grandeur. The streets, though in general narrow, are straight and tolerably regular,and are handsomely paved. The Strada di Toledo, extending half the length of the city, and having at the one end the Largo- del-ftlercatello, at the other the Royal palace, is the finest street in Naples. It is broad, straight, well paved, and bordered in its whole length with fine buildings. Several of the squares are spacious but few handsome. The Largo del Ca{.fe//o, now the Piazza del Muni- cipio, is ornamented with several fountains : that on the side of the Mole,calledthe]Medinafountain,is considered the finest in Naples. The Largo del Palazzo, now called del Plebiicito, in front of the Palazzo Reale, is surrounded by a semi-cir- cular portico, in tlie centre of which is the church of St. Fran- cisco de Paola, and decorated with statues in bronze of Charles III. and Ferdinand I ; the Largo di Monte Oliveto contains a statue in bronze of Charles II.; among the other squares are the Largo dello Spirito Santo or Mercatello, and Largo del Blercato (where the in- surrection of Massaniello broke out). Of Churches there are 258. The Cathedral of San Gen- naro, or St. Januarius, contains interesting tombs ; and the shrine of St. Januarius, in a small subter- ranean church, in which the body of the saint reposes. Santa Res- tiluta was the ancient cathedral. The Chapel of San Gennaro is very richly decorated, and possesses pictures by Domenichino, Spagno- lelto, and Lanfranc. It is in this chapel, that every year, on the Saturday preceding the first Sun- day in May, the 19tli September, and the 16th December, the miracle of the liquefaction of tlie blood of St. Januarius takes place. Amongst the other principal churches in alphabetical order are, Sant' Agnello Maggiore ; Sant' Angelo a Nilo; L'Annunziata; The Holy Apostles, (paintings by Giordano) ; Santa Brigida, (fres- coes and tomb by Giordano) ; Santa Chiara (1310), with the in- teresting tombs of Princes of the HotsE OF Akjou ; King Robert, by Masuccio II., (1350); of John I. (1282) ; of his sister, &c. San Domenico (pictures and tombs); San Filippo Neri, one of the finest in Naples, contains some remark- able pictures by Giordano, Soli- mene, Guido, Pomerancio, &c. ; San Francesco di Paola; Gesu Nuovo (the celebrated fresco of " Heliodorus driven away from the Temple," by Solimene; pictures ITALY. Route l:\b.— ROME TO MI'LES. 6t7 bv Spasnoli'tto, (Jiiercino, L.in- tranc, ivc.) San CJiiicoiuo dc^'li SpHj^'iiuoli ; (lOMU 1)1 Don 1'kuuo DE Toi.iDo, tin- masttT-pifce of iMarliaiio di Nulu) ; San (iio- vanni a Carbonara; (tombs of King Ladisi.as and of Caracciolo, favourite of Jobii II., assassinated in 15;3^) ; San Giovanni di l*api)a- coda; L'Jncoronata, (frescoes at- tributed to Giotto) ; San Lorenzo Majjf;iore,( live TOMBS of the HoiiE of Ul'kazzo;) Saulu Maria del Car- mine, (the toml) of Conradino (1817); ami of MasMniello); Sant^i Maria deKiesn (pictures); Santa Maria delia Grazie; Santa Maria donna Kej,nna, ( pictures by Giordano and Solimene); Santa INIarialanuova; Santa Maria deUa Pieta de Sani(ri, or San Severo, (CURIOIS STATUtS by CoiUlADIM, in the style of the decadence) ; San Mahiino, on tlie summit of the hill of St. Klmo, (pictures by Ribera, Guido, Ciiuseppino, Gior- dano, 31. A. di ('arava<,'jrio, di Corenzio, de Caracciolo, di Stan- zioni, iScc.) X.B. The churches are s^ne- rally closed about noon, and not re-opened until the evening^. TheMusKo 13oKiiOMCo,or degli Studii, at present the national museum (open daily, except on Monday, from 8 to 3). The museum is at present com- posed of the followins; sections : (As the museum is beinj; re-ar- ranjjfed, the foUowin-j order may not be strictly correct. By the time this volume reaches its read- ers, it is hoped the arran<^ement will liave been com])leted and a catalogjue issued). Ground-floor : 1. Mural paintings, frescoes, and ancient mosaics; 2. Ancient works in marble; 3. Efjjyptian anti(|ui- ties ; 4. Ancient bronze statues ; 5. Inscriptions, llKUtrM,s and the Farnese Bi'Li.. On the staircase, 6. Monuments of medieval art, anticjue f^lass and terra-cotta. Up- per story, 7. Papyri ; 8. Library; 9. Gems and Trinkets ; 10. Coins and medals; 11. Small bronzes ; 1'.'. X'ases ; 13. Private cabinet (or secret museum); 11. Gallery of pictures. Ci round-floor. — Kn trance \'e8- tibule: .\lexander Severus, Flora, the Genius of Rome, and Mel- pomene. Ancient Pictures: — These pic- tures from Pompeii, llerculaneum, and Stabia, about 1,6(X) in num- ber, are not of a date much earlier than the Christian jif-riod. They are entirely mural, and are sim- ply decorative ])aintint,'S. Antiiiiie iciiljitures in mavhle. 'J'iiis collection comprises more than 1,.500 sculptures, distributed through three large i;alleries, called porticoes ; six smaller fjal- leries, a cabinet, an anticbamber, and an open court. Among the most remarkable, we may mention the folloA-ing : 1st Vortico. Wounded Amazon on horseback. The wounded Gladiator, a fine statue, known as the Faknese Gladiator ; the head, arms, and feet restored. Dacian King as a prisoner. Viciria, mother of the pro-consul Balbus. Nos. 30, ;3'J, 40, 18, 59, are daugliters of Balbus. It ap- pears that the inliabitants of ller- culaneum, in their ret?ard for the family of Balbus, placed these statues in the theatre, under the alletjorical forms of diflerent Muses. Statue of .M. Xonius Balbus, the son; Marcus Xonius Balbus, the father; a Cilailiator wounded, but in the act of tif^htinjj. 'Jnd Portico, called Portico of the Balbi. In tlie midst of the hall are the two equestrian statues of AL Nonius Balbus, and his son, who were pra?tors and pro-consuls at llerculaneum, found in 1838, in the biisilica there. Themaibla 618 Route 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. ITALY. of thpse statues has been calcined and decarbonised by tlie action of the lava. Eumachia, a priestess ; Ganymede and the Eagi.e; Hercules and Omphale ; Hercules and lole ; Bacchus and Ampelus ; Minerva, a statue recalling- the Etruscan style; Faim uith the infant Bacchus on his shoulder; Antinous as Bacchus, a colossal statue. 3id Portico, or the Portico of the Emperors. — In the centre of the hall IS the fine Statue of Agrip- PiNA, seated, mourning- the death of Germanicus ; Julius C«sar, a colossal head ; fine Bust of Hadrian; Antoninus Pius, one of the most remarkable busts in theo-allery; Trajan, -with hio-lily finished bas-relief uj)on the cui- rass ; Lucius Verus, statue. Bus-reliejs, collected in a room opening into this jjortico. — A Trireme; Nocturnal sacrifice lo Priapus. found at Capri ; Offering- to Apollo and the JSaiads; frag- ment of a Sarcophagus; Nuptial ceremonies; Sun-dials; Orpheus, Eurydice, and Mercury; large porphyry drinking vessel, found at Rome. Hull of Jupiter. — Jupiter seated, colossal statue in Greek marble ; Torso Farnese, or Bacchus, a master-piece of art ; Psyche, one of the purest and most exquisite productions of Greek art; The Venus Cai.lipygii, found on the site of the golden house of Nero, at Rome, and considered a work of Praxiteles. Hall of Apollo, or of the coloured marbli's. — Apollo i\Jusagetes, in green basalt ; the Ephesian Diana, in oriental alabaster, the head, hands, and feet in bronze ; Apollo Citharoedus, semi-colossal, in sit- ting posture, of red porphyry, ex- cept the head, hands, and' feet, which are of white marble. Hall of the Muses. — Apollo ]\lusagetes, seated ; Bacchus, or Apollo, and the Graces; a fine alto-relievo. In the middle of the hall is a fine vase of Greek mar- ble, adorned with a very remark- able low-relief, representing- the birtl) of Bacchus. Gallery of Adonis. — In the centre of the hall is a statue of Adonis in Greek marble, re- stored; Hermaphrodite Bacchus, a curious statue; several statues of Venus; Marciana, sister of Trajan, as modest Venus (re- stored.) Hall of Flora. — The Farnese Flora, a colossal statue ; a master- piece of Greek sculpture, found with the Farnese Hercules, in the baths of Caracalla. /Fschines, for a long time known as Aris- tides, an admirable monument of ancient art, f )und at Herculaneum. Mosaic of the Battle of Issus. This celebrated mosaic was found in 1831, in the house of the Faun, at Pompeii. The Far- nese Minerva, a fine colossal statue in Parian marble. Hall of Atlas, or of Illustrious Men. — ^ Atlas, supporting a celes- tial globe ; a curious monument of ancient science. Statue of Cicero in the act of speaking. Hall of Tiberius. — In the middle of the Hall, a colossal head of Tiberius. Busts of: a Vestal, vulgarly known as theZingarella, or gipsy; Themistocles, Cicero, Seneca, and Homer ; the last one of the finest of that poet. A Nereid upon a marine monster. The lust Hull.— In the middle, Diana (Archaic style), &c. The Ijtruscan collection con- tains bronzes of the greatest in- terest, inscriptions, vases, and paintings. The Epigraphic Collection con- tains nearly 1,600 inscriptions on I TAI V Route 13b.— no MR TO XAI'LES. 619 marblp, divided into eiijlit classes. 'I'licrc arc in tliis liall two very Cfli'hratfd iiiicii'iit nKiiminciits: the group of the Farnfsl Jiri.i., a niastiT-piecH of (Jrcek sculp- ture, tlio work of Aiiollouiiis and I auriscus, found in tlic baths of Caracalla; the Kaiimsk II lu- ci'i.Ks, a master-piece, by Cilycon of Athens. Gatlery of Bronzes, 'i'he col- lection of bronzes forms two divisions; the one artistic, con- tainint; the statues; tlie other, industrial, known as tiie smaller bronzes. The first division, that of tlie statues, is the riciiest of tlie kind in existence, it contains about tl.i pieces, many of rare merit. Si.\ dancinj^-irirls, ^vith theeyes in enamel, wliich adorned the ]>rosceniuni of the theatre of 1 It-rculaneum; acharininj,' bust of IJerenice; two Discoboli ; a colos- sal fij^re of Antonia, wife of Dru- siis,theyouni?er; a tine bust ofSci- pio Africanus at an advanced ajre. :MF.RcrRV in rf.po.sf, one of tlie most exquisite statues in the .Mu- seum ; a fine statue of Nero Drusus as I'ontifex Maximus; a fine bust of I'luto, or Zeuxippus; an admirable statue of the si.kkp- iNG Faun ; Apollo holdin>j' the lyre; a dancing Faux, a fjraceful little fissure, considered the ij;em of the oallery, found at Pomjieii, in the house which lias taken its name from it; I'acchus and Ani- pelus, a charmiiij^ group, found in the house of I'ansa; .Statue oj Aii!;itstiis ; Senr'ca, one of the finest portraits in the gallery ; a nnuNKKN Fai'n; enonnous key of a water-conduit, still containing liquid enclosed in it nearly y,00() years ago; head of a colossal horse; a small statue of Aleiaiider, mounted on Bncephatus, greatly prized; an Amazon on horsehack. ObJectsoJ the lj(/i £•(•«<(/ riy, num- bering 1,W0. A fine bust of Paul ill. ( Faniese). A fine portrait in bronze of Dante. Ancient liliss. This collection, the most imjiortant of its kind in the world, consists of more than 4,01)0 pieces. Terra-colta. This precious col- lection contains more than 3,000 objects. The I'pi'in Hai.is. Collection of small bronzes. This collection, so valuable for the knowledge which it affords of the habits of the ancients, excites tlie highest degree of interest ; it consists of about 14,(X)0 objects, ranged in seven halls. Isl hall. Kitchen uti-nsils. 'Jiid hall. iialaiK-cs, weights, and measures; candelabra and lamps. 3rd hall. Patera, and sacrificial vases. 4tii hall. Agricultural instni- ments; armour; objects of the toilette, \c. .5tli hall. Surgical and musical instruments; tessene ; tickets in ivory for the theatre, &c. The collection of Italian-Greek vases consists of .'5,300 nieces. Uatl of llie Papyri. Nearly 3,000 small black rolls from about two to four inches long, by about a quarter of an inch in diameter, are ranged in large cases. When they were first found, they were mis- taken for pieces of coal, and the workmen threw them away. The difficulty of reading them aji- peared, at first, to be insuperable; It was nevertheless overcome by the perseverance of Antonio Piag- gi, a priest. He found the mean.s of unrolling, and fixing upon a transjiarent membrane, these cylinders, which present little more consistency than paj>er charred by fire. Cabinet oj gemx^ and precious 620 Route 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. ITALY. articles. More than 2,000 objects of gold and silver, of which a great part is ancient, compose this remarkable collection. 1 here are also articles of food, and the colours found at Pompeii and Ilerculaneum ; amianthus cloth found in tlie tombs ; various orna- ments and utensils in gold, brought from Magna Grecia, &c. Tlie pavement of this cabinet is orna- mented with mosaics, amongst which is that of Cave Canlm taken from the entrance of a house at Pompeii. In the middle is the celebrated Tazza Farnese, in oriental sardonyx. Services of gold and silver, rings, chains, bracelets, trinkets in gold and silver, of a delicacy of workman- sliip and taste which testify to the extreme ability of the ancients in this art ; a purse found in tlie hand of a skeleton in the villa of Diomede, at Pompeii ; and trinkets worn by a woman considered to have been the mistress of this villa. Her ear-drops, of lialf- circular form, have been imi- tated by the jewellers of Naples. Colours, and painters' utensils ; bread, wheat, fruits; soap, remains of wine and oil; linen, articles of clothing and house-keeping ; amongst others, a pan still full of a kind of polenta, for a repast. The reserved or secret mugeum, is a small saloon, opposite the entrance door of the hall of smaller bronzes. It is open to male visi- tors only, except youths and per- sons in holy orders. The Niimistnatic Cabinet. — This collection contains about 50,000 medals. The Picture Gallery contains about 900 pictures, and is divided into two sections, situated on the right and left of the upper story of the museum. Many of these pictures are of no great merit, and are chiefly interesting in connec- tion with the liistory of the Nea- politan school of painting. 'I'his gallery has recently been newly arranged. We shall point out only a few pictures: — Ribera : St. Jerome Terrified by the 'i'rumpet of the Last Judgment ; Silenus and Satyrs. Albert Du- rer : a Nativity. Correggio: the Virgin, called the Zingarella, or del coniglio (of the rabbit); the Mystic Marriage of St. Cathe- rine. Schidoue : Charities (two pictures). Titian: fine portraits of Paul III. and of Philip 11., King of Spain. Uomenichino : The Guardian Angel. Claude Lorraine: a fine landscape, witli the nymph Egeria. Sebastian del Piombo : Holy Family. J'^enusti : copy of Last Judgment after Michael Angelo. Raphael : an admirable Floly Family, called the Madonna col divino amore ; portraits of Leo X. and Cardinals Luigi dei Rossi and Giuliano di Medici ; portrait of tlie Cavaliere Tibakleo. Giuliu Romano: Holy Family, known as Madonna della Gatta. Annibale Carucci: Dead Christ. Bellini: a Transfigura- tion. Polydoro di Caruvaggio : Jesus Christ and St. Veronica. Bartolomeo della Porta : The As- sumption. Libraries. — There are four public libraries in Naples: the 13ibliotecaNazionale(Borbonica), in the same edifice with the JMu- seum, open daily from 8 until 2, containing about 200,000 volumes and 3,000 manuscripts ; the Bib- lioteca Brancacciana (on the small piazzaSant' Angelo aNilo), 70,000 volumes. The Palazzo Reale was com- menced in 1600 by Philip III. The front, which is 250 ft. long, is of three orders — Doric, Ionic, and Composite. It is richly fitted o ENVIRONS ) Appleton's E\iropean Giiide Book. F NAPLES I^.Kl^^-t 1 OUitnJi^ McU \ C- dj-^fadfa i. baSi -S A'&nns B A V () F S A \. K R N () Malby <^' Sons.I.oudoii Rf,Htei:i5.—R0MK TO X.tI'LES. en up, and the state apartments are aaornfd with some good paint- ings, of" wliidi tilt* principal are by Raj)!);!!'! (Madonna), Rem- brandt, \'('las(|H''Z, I loll)i'in( llfnry VIII.), Titian (.Magdali-n, Por- traits), Kibi'ra,6icc. On the right is the theatre of f>.»N Carlo, the largest in Italy, and on the left the Arsknai.. 'I he Royal FAi.ACKof Capodijiomk is a villa ui)on a Excursions in the Environs of Naples. The Grotta of Posilipo. — Lake of Agnan(j. — (irotta del (Jane. — Solfatara. — I'oz/uoli. — .Monte \uovo. — The Liicrine Lake. — Lake of A vermis. — (Irotta della Sibilla. — Baia;. — I'iscina .Mira- bile. — Misenum. Ijv startiiiii- earlv in a carriage ^A.*lr iSi. . V^iH:. cnorio oi I'lijii.ii I'D. hill ju.st outside the city. (Open daily from 10 to 4, with an order to be obtained at the Pal. Reale.) It is in a commanding position, and wa.s the favourite retreat of the court. The ajiartments are spacious, and contain some good modern ])nintings. The grounds are about tiiree miles in circum- ference, and are beautifully laiil out . this excursion ma_v be made in one daj-. A carriage costs 25 francs ])er day. A guitle, taken to avoid the annoying imjwrtunities of local guides, costs 6 francs per day. llalf-a-franc is enough to give to the custodian of each of the localities visited. .Vt the extremity of the Cliiaja, the street of I'iedigrotta is as- cended to the Grotta di Posi- lipo. This remarkable tunnel, which is '2,'.il-l- ft. in length, i."J ft. wide, and from '2.5 to 69 ft. in height, dates from the time of \ero ; some 622 Route 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. ITALY. authorities claim for it a date an- teriorto the reign of that Emperor. It was enlarged in the 15th cen- tury, and has since then been re- paired at various periods. It is lighted by daj' through two sliafts, and at night by numerous gas lamps. Near the entrance to the Grotto is a stair cut in the rock, which leads to the Tomb of Virgil, on the height above the Grotto. A fee of half a franc is paid to the gate-keeper. The tomb consists of a chamber about 15 ft. square with two windows. Ten niches on the sides were intended for cinerarj' urns. Virgil, who had a villa near this S])ot, where lie wrote tlie Eclogues and Georgics, died at Brundusium u.c. 19. He was buried at Naples, at his own request, and thougli writers differ as to the exact jiosition of his burial-place, the weight of the evidence is in favour of the sup- position that the tomb now shown once contained the ashes of the poet. Tourists who desire to visit the Lake of Agnano or the Grotta del Cane, leave tlie road to Pozzuoli soon after passing the village of Fuori Grotta, anil take the road on tlip right, less than a mile to the lake. On the bank of the lake are some old chambers in which the hot vapours are collected for the cure of rheumatic patients. These apertures oi- chambers are called Stufedi San Germano. Close by the Stufe is the Grotta del Cane, a small cellar excavated in the base of a hill, from the floor and sides of which vapour mixed with carbonic acid gas is exiialed. The upper part of the cave is free from gas, wliicli settles at the bottom. A dog is introduced by the custode of the cave. The effect of the vapours is to render the dog insensible after a few mo- ments. The name of the cave is derived from these experiments. Pozzuoli, population 12,000, is pleasantly situated on a point on the north shore of the gulf. In ancient tiinf'S, under tlie name of Puteoli, it \vas the chief seaport and mart of Cumae, and a ren- dezvous for merchants from Sicily and Greece. Its baths brought to it people from all parts of the Roman Empire. Its prosperity declined aftekthe fall of the Em- pire. After suffiering much from enemies it was partially destroyed in the lltli centuryLhyan eruption of the Solfatara. In the 16th century an eruption, by whicli Monte A^uovo was formed, com- pelled tlie abandonment of the city. It now jires^nts few evi- dences of its former prosperity. The Cathedral stands on the site, and is in part built of the materials of, a temple of Au- gustus. At the western extremity of the town are the ruins of' the Temple of Jupiter Serapis. The building consists of a quadrilateral atrium surrounded by chambers with a circular temple in the centre. The court, which is 140 ft. long and 120 ft. wide, was sur- rounded by a portico with 48 columns. These ruins were for ages covered up. In 1750 three upright columns were discovered projecting above the surface, and Charles ill. ordered them to be disinterred. In doing so the re- mainder of the ediftce was dis- covered. The three columns are each 40 ft. long and of a single block. It is evident from their appearance that, for nearly half tlieir length, they have for ages been immersed in water, proving that the shore of the bay must have been alternately depressed and elevated. The names of ITALY. Route VVy.—nOMK TO XAI'LES. 623 Temple of Ni'Ptiiiie, and 'l"i'ini)le of the i\}iii|>lis, arc j^ivcn to scattered ruins under the water, west of the Teniph- of Serapis. A short distance beyond, on the shore, are the ruins of the so- caUed Vdhi of Cicero. On a hill behind flie town are the ruins of an A-Mrnnni Aim., \iiO ft. by ;j8ii ft., and estimated to liave held '25,000 persons. About midway between I'ozzudliand the Lake of Atjnano is Un- .Solfatara. It is an oval pliin surrounded by broken liills. From some of the cre- vices of the rocks upon it noxious upases are constantly exhaled. One and a halt miles beyond Pozzuoli is Monte Nuovo, which was formed by the eruption of 15o8. West of -Monte Nuovo is the Lakeof Avernus, a picturesque sheet of water, 10 nules in cir- cumference, wliicli ()ccu;>ies the bottom of a crater, and is sur- rounded by a wood of chestnut- trees, vines, and orantre-trees. Its depth is about 160 ft. Its Latin name, Avernus, siL-^nifies that no bird dared to approach it. At tlie present time it is tlie liaunt of wild ducks, and is stocked with lish. ILinnihal came to it to sacrifice to I'luto. It is from this locality tliat Viri,nl makes .Lneas descend to tlie infernal re_';ions. The (irotto of the Sibut, on t\n- southern l)()rder of the lake, is tiie poetical name if iveii to one of the tunnels which Au^rippa caused to he cut, to put the lake in com- munication with the cities of Cunw and Bai.e. It is pretended that this is the gjrotto of wliich Virjjil sjieaks in tlie 6th book of the ^-Eneid. Lake Lucrinus, between Aver- nus and the sea, now a narrow marsh, was celebrated in ancient times for its oysters. Hmx.. — When the Roman em- pire was in its greatest splendour. the beauty of its situation, the fineness of tlie surrounding scen- ery, and the excellence of ita mineral siirin-^s, made Baia; such a favourite resort of the Roman nobles, that for want of snace for their baths and villas, they encroached on the sea. Julius C'asiir, I'iso, I'i>ini)ey, .Marius, and others, had country- lious'S here. Horace preferred liaiie to all other places in the world. Seneca warned every one who desired to maintain iloniinion over iiimself to avoid this water- ini,' place. The ruins, still stand- in;; on the desolate coast, or rising from the Srja, are now the only evidence of its former magnifi- cence. The ruins of three supposed Tejipi.ls — one of \'enl's, one of Mkiicurv, and one of Dian.», as well ;is the remains of a few ihermr, or warm baths, still at- tract tlie attention of archa-olo- gists. The harbour, one of the largest belonging to the Romans, is now much destroyed. The sur- rounding country is covered with the ruins of Roman villas, sepul- chral monuments, and otiier build- ings. On the summit of the hill, a few hundred yanls from the little village of Bacoli, a little beyond Biiiie, is the Piscina Mirabilis, a Roman reservoir excavated in the hill. It is '290 ft. long by 80 ft. broad, and its massive roof of mnsoiiry is supported by -18 columns. The roof is nearly en- tire. It is entered by stairs of 40 steps at each end. It was con- structed to supply the Roman fl.'et with water. Tori ici, Rf.sina, Vesuvius, Her- ci'LANEVM, Torre del Greco, AND Pompeii. Trains leave Naples ten times 624 Route 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. ITALY. a day for Castellammare and the intermediate stations. Portici is reached in 15 minutes. Here is a Royal Palace remarkable only for its fine situation. Resina, from whicli point the ascent of Vesuvius is gvnerally undertaken, adjoins Portici. Ihe whole ex- cursion to the summit occupies about 7 hours. Professional gaides and good horses are always in readiness at Resina. The path is not difficult, and one guide, with a porter to carry provisions and take care of the horses at the foot of the cone, are all that need be taken. The expenses for each traveller are usually about 25 francs. If a chair with four por- ters is taken from the foot oi tlie cone to the summit, the additional expense is 20 francs. It is well for travellers contemplating this excursion to engage their guide and horses the day previous. Visuvius is an isolated moun- tain, rising 3,937 ft. above the sea. The north-east side is called Monte Somma, the highest point of which, Punta del Nason(>, is 3,450 ft. in height. A deep valley, Atrio del Cavallo, sejia- rates Somma from Vesuvius pro- per. It is thought that Somma is a portion of the single cone which existed in the time of Strabo, and which was partially destroyed in the eruption of 79, in which Pliny tlie elder perished. Some indications are found of eruptions in the years 472 and 512. Vesuvius remained in repose be- tween the eruption of 1500 and that of 1631. During- this inter- val, in 1538, the Monte Nuovo, near Pozzuoli, was formed. Mount ^tna, on the other hand, was in activity dm'hig this period. Brac- cini, who visited Vesuvius a little before the eruption of 1631, gives an interesting- description of it as follows: — "The volcano was 3| miles in circumference, and about 1000 paces deep; its sides w^ere covered with brushwood, and at the base was a plain in which cat- tle were pastured." Dec. 16,1631, seven currents of lava burst forth at once, and overwhelmed several villagesat the foot of the mountain. Resina, partly built upon the site of Merculaneum, was consumed by the burning torrent. Tlie inun- dations vpf mud were not less destructiv&-tlian those of the lava itself. For such jis the abundance of rain, owing— to the mass of va- pours ejected into the atmosphere, that it precipitates itself along the sides of the cone in actual torrents, charged with a fine impalpable volcanic dust, which, carrying with them fine ashes, acquire a consistence sufficient to justify the name given to them by Lyell, of " aqueous lavas." It is believed that 4000 persons perished in this catastrophe. The following is a list of later eruptions brought down to our own times:— 1751, 1758, 1760, 1766, 1779, 1784, 1789, 1790, 1794, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1809, 1811,1813, 1817,1820,1822,1828,1831,1834, 1838, 1845, 1847, 1850, 1855, 1858, 1859, 1861, 1867, 1868-1869. In November, 1867, after hav- ing been quiet for nearly six years, Vesuvius again became active, and has so continued, more or less, almost to the pre- sent time. On JSovember 17th in that year a considerable eruption took place. On March 11th and 12th, 1868, the walls of the crater became red with heat, and a fresh torrent of lava over- flowed in a northerly direction. Showers of stones, &c. were thrown up to a great height, and parts of Naples, Pozzuoli, and other places 10 niiles distant were covered with fine volcanic dust. In the preceding January, Resi- ITALY. Route 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. 625 na and Torre dol Greco were seriously threatened by streams of lava, wliicli, however, turned aside from them, and subsided amongst older deposits. The prand spectacle attracted crowds of visitors to Naples, amon<^st ■whom was Professor I'hillips, of Oxford, who made some exceed- ini:^ly valuable observations, in a scientific point of view, uj)on the phenomena so presented to him. Hercidaneum. Persons ascend- ino^ Vesuvius from Resina may visit Herculaneum in an additional liour. The entrance to the exca- vations is in the main street of Resina, at the corner of the Vico di JMare. (2 francs are paid for admission). A long staircase leads to the Theatre, which is seen by the lig'ht of a few candles. It consists of 19 tiers of seats, and probably held 10,000 persons. The orchestra lies 26 feet below the surface of the modern town of Resina. Other excavations have been made, a little way down the Vico di Mare, disclosing part of a large private house and several houses used for industrial pur- Eoses and resembling some of the ouses at Pompeii. The garden of the principal house is enclosed by an arcade of twenty columns and six buttresses, iarther to- ward the sea are magazines three stories high, well preserved. Pompeii is reached inalittle less than an hour from A' aples. There are five trains daily. Fares 2"60 francs, 1'70 francs, and O'dOfrancs. Admission two francs. Three hours will suffice for the visit. Guides are assigned to visitors. Several of them speak French. They are not allowed to accept gratuities. This city, buried during nearly 17 centuries, was discovered in 1748. As a consequence of the slowly continued diggings, a third of the city is at present uncovered. In the year 63, Pompeii was partly ruined by an earthquake, i'lie terrified inhabitants aban- doned the city, but returned soon afterwards, and it had regained nearly all its splendour when, at mid(l,iy,on November 23rd,79, the eruption destined to destroy it commenced. The wooden roofs of the houses were either set on fire, or broken in by the weight of matter accumulated upon them. The burnt wood, molten glass, &c., discovered, prove that the incandescent matter thrown out by the volcano reached Pompeii before the rains, which only flooded it when it was already covered with pumice stones and ashes. These torrents of water and ashes carried away in all directions movable and fragile objects, and covering them up, prevented their destruction. As only a small number of skeletons have been found, it would seem that nearly all the inhabitants were enabled to get away. They returned not long afterwards, to dig the soil in which the town was buried, which had not then acquired its present thickness of 13 ft. (composed of seven different layers, one over the other), and took away the valuables left in their habitations, and some pre- cious objects from the public edifices. We limit ourselves to an account of the most important parts of this city. The principal entrance to Pom- peii is sitUMted in one of the suburbs, uncovered in 1812-14. Tiie street to which it leads has been called the Street of Tombs, on account of tile number of funereal monuuienis by which it is bor- dered. In it is the villa of Dio- mede, one of the largest habita- tions in Pompeii, an unique specimen of a suburban vill.i. The R II 626 Koute 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. ITALY. remains of seventeen persons were discovered there during the exca- vations, nearly perfect moulds of the bodies having been preserved in the lava, one of which is in the museum at Naples. In the vicinity is the villa called Cicero's. The Gate of Herculaneum has three arcades built in brick and lava. We subsequently reach the inn of Albinus,theThermopolium, LONiCA, or Fullers' establishment, which has furnished many objects to the museum at Naples, and the Houses of Apollo, Meleager, the Nereids, the Qua?stor, &c. The House of the Faun, in the street of this name, fur- nished the Naples Museum with the fine mosaic of the battle of Issus. In the street of the Forum are situated the Temple of For- CAPRI. the house of the Ve»tuU, of the surgeon, of the dancing girls, of Narcissus, &c. ; the houm of Sal- lust, one of the most elegant in the city, near which is a bakery; the house of the Choragus and of Polybius. In the street of the Thermte, or Baths, is the house of Pansa, one of the largest and finest of the city. Not far from thence are the house of the Tragic Poet, the Ful- TUNE, the Therms, or public baths, and the school of the Gla- diators. The quarter of the Forum con- tains the three triumphal arches built with brick and lava encased in marble ; the Civil Forum, paved with marble, and sur- rounded on three sides by por- ticos ; the Temple of Jupiter ; the Temple OF Venus; the Basi- lica; the tribunals; the prisons; ITALY. Route 135.— ROME TO NAPLES. 697 the temples of Mercury, of Au- gustus, &c. In the quarter of the Theatres are found the Triangular Fo- rum; the Te.mplk of Neptunk; the Barracks, where 63 skeletons have been discovered, and a n^eat number of valuable obiccts, arms of gladiators, Ike; the CJrkat Thkatre ('JL'3 ft. internal dia- meter); the S.MALI, Tiieatue, or Odeon; Temples of Isis an(l of del Tasso, Ri^poli). This town is a favourite summer residence on account of its ai^reeable tempera- ture and dflij^htful environs. It was the birtliplace of 'lasso. Capri is conveniently reached from Sorrento by boat. A four- oared bout, crossing in about 2 hours, costs 10 francs, besides gra- tuities to rowers. Capri is a small, mountainous island, oblong in form, rising, at ILMl'LLS OF P.I^TUM. -■EscuLAPtus; the statuary's work- shop ; and the Amphitheatre, with its 35 rows of steps divided into three stages. Castellammare and Sorrento. Railway from Naples by Portici, Torre del Greco and Torre An- nunziata to Castellammare, in 1 hour. Pares : 3'03 francs, 'J francs, 0"85 francs. From Castellammare, by a beau- tiful road atotig the bail, S(jrrento is reached in an hour. Carriage with two horses, 5 francs and gratuity to driver. Sorrento (^Hotels : La Sirena, its highest point, 1,800 ft. above the sea. It has 3,000 inhabitants, Augustus built palaces on the island, and subsequently Tiberius built 12 villas in honour of the 12 gods, of some of which a few traces still remain. Donkeys, to visit the island, 3 francs per day. (Hotel: d'Li^hitterra, near the landing.) The Blue Grotto may be visited by boat in 2 hours from the land- ing near the hotel. (In the tra- velling season a small steamer makes occasional trips from Naples to Capri, giving passengers an opportunity to visit the grotto. Notice of time of departure is 628 Route 135 —ROME TO NAPLES. ITALY. given at the hotels.) The entrance IS not above 3 ft. in height, and passengers are compelled to stoop or lie down in the boat. In the interior the roof is 40 ft. above the water. The length of the grotto is 16.5 ft. ; its greatest width 100 ft. The effect of the blue re- fraction of the light on every object is very fine, and, at first, dazzling to the sight. The boatmen who, for a small fee, swim about the boats, assume a silvery hue. The best hour for visiting the grotto is from 10 to 1. Salerno and P;estum. Five trains daily from Naples to Salerno. Fares: 5-90 francs, 3-85 francs, and 1-80 francs. The route passes Pompeii, Pagani, Nocera, La Cava (a favourite summer resort), Vietri (a beau- tifully-situated town, with charm- ing villas). From Salerno {Hotel : Vittoria) to Pffstum, a two-horse carriage costs 25 francs, besides gratuities. The distance is 24 miles. The traveller who spends the night at Salerno may, by leaving at 4 or 5 in the morning, visit Ppestum and return in time for the last train to Naples. 1 he region about Pa^s- tum is not healthy; it should be visited between October and March, and passing the night there should be avoided. P;f.stum, a colony of Sybaris, founded u.c. 600, was called before the Roman times, Poseidonia. At- tention was called to its ruins in 1745. Besides some remains of the walls and an amphitheatre, they consist of three Doric tem- ples,which haveremainedstandin^ for2,000yearsin this now wild and solitary place. The most remark- able is the Temple of Neptune or Poseidonium. This temple, •which after those of Athens is con- sidered the finest example of genius manifested by the Greeks in archi- tecture, forms from east to west a parallelogram of 199 feet by 83 feet, including the steps. It has six columns on each front and fourteen on "the^sides, count- ing those of the angles. These columns, of the Doric -order, ele- vated upon three steps, surround the temple in one continuous por- tico. Ihey are 6 feet 9 inches in diameter at their lower part, and 14 feet 8 inches high, by which an effect of greater massiveness than that of the Parthenon, and of the temple of Tlieseus at Athens, is produced. They have no base, are fluted and conical, the upper diameter being one-third less than the lower ; an excessive diminu- tion, as the difference in the tem- ples at Athens is but two-ninths. They are formed of five or six cylinders of variable heights, and are perfectly jointed. The other two temples are: the one impro- perly named the Basilica, and a sm^il temple of Ceres, Route 136. NAPLES TO MESSINA. ' Steamers leave at 8 p.m. every Friday and Sunday. Fare, 1st class, 40-60 francs ; Ind, 24-60 francs. (Distance 208 miles.) ESSINA (Hotels; de la Trinacria, la Vittoria, di Parigi, I'Europa), a town of about 100,000 inhabitants, is situated at the north- eastern extremity of the island of Sicily, on the western shore of the straits of the same name, exactly opposite to Reggio, on the Cala- brian coast. It is built partly along the declivity of well wooded hills which rise from the coast, ITALY. Route 136.— NAPLES TO MESSINA. 629 and partly round a maji^ificent harbour. It was formerly called Zaitcle, from the Greek word sig- nifying a sickle, on account of its shape. Subsequently it was colo- nized from iMessene in Greece, and was thereafter called JNIessana, The background is closed by the fine chain of tin,' Neptunian hills, rising to a height of 1,800 feet above the sea. The town is well built, and paved with lava. It has three principal streets, one of which extends for more than a is inlaid with elegant mosaic-work of jasper, lapis-lazuli, and other beautiful stones, and finished with gilt bronze. Among other public buildings are tlie royal palace, the senate-house, public hospital, se- veral convents, and a large prison. In the square in which the Cathe- dral stands is a bronze equestrian statue of Charles 111. of Spain. The town is surrounded by walls witii two I'orts, and the harbour is commanded by the citadel, near which is the lazaretto. The staple PALEIIMO. mile along the liarbour. The lat- ter, from its depth and circuit, is capable of accommodating many hundreds of vessels of the largest size. There are upwards of fifty churches, many of them atlorned with paintings and sculjitures. The Cathedral, a fine Gotliic build- ing, is beautifully decorated in- ternally. The nave rests on gra- nite columns from an ancient tem- ple of Neptune. The high altar manufacture is of silk. The neigh- bourhood produces wines and fruit in abundance. The coral fishery also furnishes employment for numbers. From Messina a railway is open to Catania (59^ miles), (Hotel: Granddi Cnfa/ita ), popula- tion 75,000. This ancient town was colonized by Aus^ustus. It contains the vestiofes of an Amphi- theatre,Theatre, Baths, and Tombs. 630 ■Route 136.— NAPLES TO MESSINA. ITALY. The invariable object of tourists in visiting Catania is to make the ascent of" Mount jIItna, which rises nearly 11,000 feet above the sea. On the east side of the moun- tain is an extensive valley called the Val del Bove, surrounded on three sides by abrupt precipices rising from 1,000 to 3,000 feet. Above it is a plain called Piano del Lago, on which are two buildings, one called the Casa Inglese (Kng- lish Lodge), built by the subscrip- tions of English tourists ; another called Torre del Filisofo (the Phi- losopher's Tower), said to have been the residence of Empedocles, who threw himself into the crater. Above this plain rises the great cone of the crater. The as- cent can be made in about ten hours. The journey is usually commenced at night, in order to enjoy the magnificent view, which extends to i\lalta, and to the island of Pantalaria in the direction of Africa — the former being 130, the latter 180 miles distant. EOUTE 137. NAPLES TO PALERMO. The distance is 1931 miles ; the fares are the same as to Messina. Steamers leave at 8 p.m. on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. ALERMO (Hotels: Trinacria, de France) is a town of upwards of 200,000 inhabitants, si- tuated on the north coast of Sicily. As we approach, the gulf and town present a most delightful prospect. The latter is partially encircled by groves of orange and citron trees, behind which rises a range of magnificent hills. Its shape is an oblong square, of whicli one of the small sides abuts on the coast. Its circumference is about fourteen miles, and its principal streets are terminated by fifteen gates. Two large and regular streets, intersecting at right angles, form an octagonal space, called the Piazza Vi^lieiia, or Quattro Cantoni, adorned with handsome buildings, porticos, fountains, and statues, among which last are those of Charles V., Philip II., III., and IV. of Spain, By the sea-side runs the beauti- ful promenade called Marina, ending at a public garden called the Garden of Flora. The Cathedral, erected in 1170, is externally in the Norman style with Moorish decorations ; the western facade is a beautiful specimen of the pointed style of Sicilian architecture ; a lofty ar- cade, with pointed arches, joins the belfry to the Cathedral. The interior contains several monu- ments, paintings, sculptures, and frescoes. The Palazzo Reale contains the Palatine Chapel, an interesting specimen of art of the 12th cen- tury. There are some good col- lections in the palace of the Prince of Trabia, and in the University. About 3| miles from Palermo is Monreale, a town of 15,000 in- habitants. The Cathedral, sur- passing in size tliat of St. Mark at Venice, is ornamented with beautiful mosaics. In the Convent is an interesting fresco of Daniel in the Lions' Den. From Palermo an excursion may be made by rail to Termini (23 miles), (Hotels : San Domenico, Concordia), popu- lation about 20,000. Here are to be seen numerous ancient ruins ; the churches and convents are rich in mosaics and ancient co- lumns. A beautiful view is ob- tained from the platform behind the Cathedral. Fares : 1st class, 4'15 francs ; 2nd, 2-dO francs ; 3rd, 2-10 francs. SPAIN. ROUTES. Route 138. InuN TO Madrid, by Buncos Bayonne to JNIadrid, BY PaMPELUNA and Saragossa .... Madrid to Toledo Madrid to Alicante. 142. Madrid to Cartha- GENA 143. Madrid to Valencia 144. Madrid to Cordova, Seville, and Cadiz . 139. 140 141 Page 633 638 641 643 644 645 647 Route Page 145. jMadrid to Cordova AND Malaga . . 656 146. ISIalaga to Granada . 657 147. Valencia to Barce- lona, BY Tarragona 660 148. Barcelona to Madrid 662 149. Barcelona TO Gerona 663 150. jMadrid TO Badajos AND Lisbon . . 664 151. Lisbon to Oporto . . 667 PAIN is bounded on the north by the Bay of Biscay and the mountain -chain of the Pyrenees ; on the east and south by the Mediterranean and Atlan- tic, and on the west by Portuj^al and the waters of the Atlantic. Its greatest length is 560 miles, its j^reatest breadth about 650 miles. Its area, including the Canary and Balearic Islands, is 182,758 square miles. The interior of the country pre- sents great physical diversity, more so than tliat of any other country in Europe of equal ex- tent. The central regions consist of an immense plateau, which rises to the height of from 2,000 to 3,000 ft., and occupies upwards of 90,000 square miles. Tliis pla- teau, or table land, is bounded on two sides by mountainous tracts — on tlie north-east by the valley of the Ebro, and on the soutli by the valley of the Guadalquivir. The Pyrenean peninsula IS divided by geographers into seven moun- tain ranges, of which the chief are : 1. The Cantabrian Moun- tains and the Pyrenees, forming the most northern range; 2. The Sierra de Guadarrama; 3. The INIontes de Toledo ; 4. The Sierra Morena, between the upper waters of the Guadiana and Guadalqui- vir; 5. The Sierra Nevada run- ning parallel with the shores of the JNIediterranean, through Southern ^lurcia and Andalusia. The several mountain-ridges, or, as they are called, Cordilleras of Spain, have a general east and west direction, and between them run, in the same direction, the nearly parallel valleys or basins of the great rivers of the country, the Douro, Tagus, Guadiana, and Guadalquivir. The valleys en- closed among the mountain- ranges, a.s well as the plains, or vegas, that spread out from their bases, are in general distinguished by extreme beauty. The former are almost uniformly clothed with a luxuriant vegetation, and 632 SPAIN. the latter form rich pasture grounds. The climate, owing (o the phy- sical configuration of the surface, varies much in different localities. On the elevated table-land it is both colder in winter and hotter in summer than is usual under the same latitude. In Madrid the mean tempera- ture of winter is about 47 degrees and of summer 86 degrees. In the north-west, in severe and rainy winters, the cold is occa- sionally extreme, and in Gallicia, a piercing wind, which the Cas- tilians call gallego, often blows. In the south-east districts a kind of perpetual spring prevails ; on the contrary, in the south-west, in Granada, and other parts of An- dalusia, the climate is almost African, and a wind called iolano, which withers up vegetation, en- feebles the animal frame, and spreads epidemic diseases, often blows for two weeks in succession. In the west the climate is mild but variable ; the summer, how- ever, is often very hot, and in Estremadurain particular, wither- ing droughts are not unfrequent. In the east the climate resembles that of Asia Minor and Syria. The principal rivers, in addition to those above named, are the Ebro, Xucar, and Minho. The rivers on the northern coast of Spain are numerous, but of short courses : they serve to irrigate the land, but are not sufficiently deep for navigation. Spain has no lakes of any magnitude. Some of small size occur in the high valleys of the Pyrenees. The mineral productions are rich and varied, though, owing to the general decay into which al- most all the industrial interests of the kingdom have fallen, they are less extensively worked than they formerly were. They include gold, silver, quicksilver (the mines of which at Almaden, are among the richest in the world), copper, iron, zinc, in limited quantities, and coal. Thejtotal value of the minerals, ores £>nd metals raised in 1863, amtmHted to £4,428,389. The kingdom of Spain, inclu- sive of the adjacent islands, is divided into 49 provinces. The total population is 16,301,851. It has been calculated that, about the time of Julius Csesar, Spain must have contained 78,000,000 inhabitants, and yet, in 1688, it did not possess more than 8,000,000. In 1768 the population had risen to 9,307,800; in 1820, to 11,000,000; and, in. 1842, to 12,054,000 souls. The population of Spain in 1866 was estimated at 16,516,949, giving a density of population, at this period, of 90 per English square mile, or considerably less than half that of Italy, Money. By a decree made in October, 1868, a new currency was established on the basis of the franc, viz., 100 centimes = 1 pe- seta := lOd. English, or 20 cents, money of the United States. The old currency, still in use, is, 100 centimes = 1 real = '^^d. or 5 cents ; 10 reals = 1 escudo = 2s. Id. or 50 cents. Gold coins. Onza (320 reals) =£3 6s.8d., or 16 dollars; 5 onza =:£l 13s. 4(i., or 8 dollars; Isabel (100 reals) = 20s. lOd., or 5 dol- lars ; ^ onza = 16s. 8J., or 4 dol- lars; 40 real piece =r 8s. 4d., or 2 dollars; dollar (20 reals) =: 4s. 2d., or 1 dollar. Silver COINS. Dollar = 4s. 2d. = 2 dollars; escudo (10 reals) = 2s. Irf., or 50 cents; Peseta de Columnas (5 reals) = Is. O^d., or 25 cents; Peseta (4 reals) = 10d., or 20 cents ; 2^ real piece = 6d., or 12 cents ; 2 real piece = bd.. SPAIN. Route 138.— IRUN TO MADRID. 635 or 10 cents; real = '2\d., or 5 cents. Copper coins, i real z= l^d., or 2i cents; i real = it/., or 1 cent. Route 138. IRUN TO MADRID (BY BURGOS). 394J miles : 1st class, 277-75 reals ; 2ncl, 208-25 reals; 3rd, 125-5 reals. I RUN {Hotel : del Xorte), population, 5,000, situate on the left bank of the River Bidassoa. (The bajjgag^e of pas- sengers coming from France is examined at this station.) The church of Nueslra Senora de Juii- cal, with its remarkable altar- piece, will be found worthy of notice. Tlie country in this noii,'libour- hood is extremely beautiful ; the level lands being profusely wa- tered, while the uplands and mountains, from their base to the summit, are clothed with magnifi- cent oaks, beech-trees, and chest- nuts. Passing by R«nfen'oand Pasajes, at which latter place there is an English cemetery, we reach Sani Sebastian (lOj miles), {Hotels: Beraza, La Posta), population, 16,000. This is a much-frequented batliing-place, and celebrated for its siege by the British forces under the Duke of Wellington. Behind the liill called .Monte Argullo are the graves of many Englisii oflBcers who fell during the siege. Tolosa (26J miles), a town of 8,200 inliabitants, has considerable manufactures of cloth and paper. At Alsuasa (63i miles), the linn to Barcelona, by way of I'ampelunaandSaragossa, brandies off. VnrouiA (90J miles), {Hotels: de Pdtltues, Larea), population, 19,200, the capital of the jiro- vince of Alava. This place is divided into the old and new- town ; tlie former, called tlie Cam- ]iilli) Suso, is remarkable for its (lark winding streets and curious old houses, while the lattiT has straight avenues and plazas, shel- tered by arcades. The great point of attraction is the Great Sqttare. The market is held here. The houses in this square are built of a sort of freestone, in a very tasteful and handsome style, with arcades below- and balconies above. The CoUegiata de la Santa Maria, in the upi)i;r town, was built in 1150. Ihe Capilla de Santiago contains some finely sculptured tombs. The Battle oj Vittoria, between the French and the Eng- lish under Wellington, took place on June 21, IBlj. Burgos {166\ miles), {Hotels: del Norte, Parador de las Penin- .'!iW((re,';),i)opulation, 26,000. Cross- ing the River Arlanzon, we enter the city by the Puerta de Santa Maria. Burgos is full of interest for the antiquarj", but its chief at- traction is its justly celebrated CATiiEDRAr,, tlie spires of which will be seen rising above a mass of dull yellow houses. This build- ing dates from the 13th century ; but the grand altar was constructed some three hundred years later. At the west end are two spires of open-work, about 300 ft. high. Behind these rises up an octagonal tower, built by the son of the Duke of Alva, and behind this again a low-er tower, in itself a good-sized church. The cathedral 634 Route 138.— IRUN TO MADRID. SPAIN. is of so vast an extent, that ser- vices may be performed in eight chapels at once without occasion- ing confusion. Many of the chapels are well worth seeing. The choir is enriched with nu- merous bas-reliefs, finely executed in carved wood ; and the small sacristy is also richly adorned with similar work, the ceiling repre- senting the crowningof the Blessed Virgin, in alto-relievo. The towers afford fine views of the town and surrounding country. The Convent of Miraflores, ahout two miles out of the town, possesses a church, erected by Isabella of Castile, as a monument to her parents. It has been mutilated by the French. In it is the mag- nificent monument of Don .Tuan II. and his queen. On the top are the recumbent effigies of the king and queen — he in his armour, she in her robes, ornamented with lace marvellously chiselled — while all round the monument are carved figures of martyrs and apostles. There are several churches in Burgos worth visiting : — St. Nicholas (1500) ; San Esteban, formerly a convent (1290—1380) ; and San Gil (of the 14th century). In the Town Hall are preserved the bones of the Cid, removed here in 1842, from San Pedro de Cardena, and placed in a glazed case. The Castle was built by Belchides about 895. ToRQUEMADA (207 miles), popu- lation, 3,000. The houses in this part of the country are built, like those of Egyptian villages and tlie ancient cities of Mesopotamia, with sun-dried bricks. The church of Torquemada affords a striking contrast to the poverty of the pri- vate dwellings, being erected in a handsome style of Gothic archi- tecture. Valladolid (243 miles), {Ho- tels ; Universal, de Paris, del Siglo), population, 50,000. This is a place of some commercial ac- tivity. It was formerly the capital of Spain, until Philip II. trans- ferred the court to Madrid. It possesses a University, a Musleum, containing some excellent speci- mens of Spanish carving in wood, a fine Cathedral, and several in- teresting churches and convents ; the latter now applied to secular uses. Passing several other places, we reach A VILA (323 miles), (Hotel : San Jost), population, 6,250. This is a fortified town. Its walls are of considerable height and thick- ness, and are protected by nu- merous towers. The Cathedral is a fine building, and is adorned with choice stained-glass win- dows, and curious paintings on the retablo of the high altar. The choir contains some fine carvings, and there are some well executed reliefs in the transepts. Of the other churches, the most striking is that of San Vicente. Leaving Avila, we proceed through a mountainous district, passing several tunnels. The country is bleak and unpro- ductive. Near La Canada, we obtain a magnificent view, ex- tending to the mountains of the Sierra de Toledo. El Escobial (361^ miles). The celebrated Palace of the Escorial is situated at Escorial de Arriba, which is also called San Lorenzo de Escorial. For descrip- tion of the Escorial, see page 638. Poznelo (338^ miles), is a plea- sant village, surrounded by gar- dens. It is much frequented by the citizens of Madrid during the fine season. Here are some fine houses, principally inhabited by Government employes. It was in this neighbourhood, at Cha- martin, that Napoleon I. fixed M. 1 ' i'ontjr^ta * .-4 tuiierfitt & tl'>4'ienda on . 4dunrut t^ Marine . 9 Bhm^nto oti /••iniiitni ^ \ ^^ (if Jifajfo - Appleton's European Guide }5ook. . ' . ' /v -r-.^— ^p f "y^ • ■•■■: ■'■.-- ^ ..-^ ?5i' M.IU -S- Son-< I'M.. Ion SPAIN. Route 138.— IRUN TO MADRID. 6SS his head-quartprs on 2nd Decpm- ber, 1808. The round cliani- ber which he occupied, in the palace of the Duke of Osuna, IS shown to visitors. As the metropolis is ajiproaclied, a splendid bridije will be seen to the ripfht. This mai^nificent struc- ture is erected over the insis^nifi- cant stream Manzanares, wiiich is quite dry during nine months of the jear, Madrid (394.^ miles), (Hotels: Grand HStelde Farts, los Principesj Peniiisii lares, all in the neis^hbour- hood of the Puerto-del Sol ; de Rusia, de los Embajudnres, de Fraiicia), population, 475,785. Madrid is tlie capital of the kingdom. It is situated in the midst of a vast, sandy plateau. 'J'his plateau is bounded on the north by the mountains Somo- sierra and Guadarrama. Almost the only reason that can be as- signed for selecting such an un- inviting spot as the place for tiie capital, is said to have been its geographical j)osition, being in the centre of Spain. It first became the temporary residence of the court under the regency of Cardinal Ximenes, in the six- teenth century, but was chosen as the capital by Philip II., in 1560. It was chiefly in the reign of Charles III. that the sjreat works which adorn the city were erected or desimed. Most of the streets are wide and straight, but are not well cleaned. The houses are handsome and lofty, generally built of brick ; but those of the nobility are of stone. The Plaza IMayor is a grand square, con- taining a fine statue of Philip III. on horseback. Executions and bull-fights used to take place in this square. The Calle de Alcala is a fine street, leading to the PuERTA DEI, Sol, which is a large, much frequented area, where eight of the principal streets meet. It has recently been ornamented with a handsome fountain, and at night, when lighted up and crowded with people, presents a very gay ap- pearance. The Palaciodel Gober- nacion, and the Fonda de Paris, are its chief buildings. The Puerta del Sol has frequently been the scene of revolts and j)olitical manifestoes. Here also was perpetrated a terrible mas- sacre by Murat, on ^nd May 1808. In the square called Plazuela de la Villa is the mansion-house {Casa del Aifitntamiento), at the balcony of whicli the Duke of AVellington presented himself to the populace, and was enthusi- astically hailed by them as their deliverer. The Plaza de Oriente is of an oval form, and is sur- rounded by a promenade, between the trees of which are forty-four colossal stone statues. In the centre is an enclosure, containing a fine garden. Here is a splendid bronze equestrian statue of Philip IV". On one side of this square is the Biblioteca Kacional, con- taining 230,000 voluires, some cameos, and other antiquities. A bronze statue of Cervantes is erected in the Plaza de las Cortes. In the Plaza de la Cruz Verde is a cross, marking the spot where the last victim of the Inquisition was burnt. The other squares deserve no special mention. The pRADO, situated at the east end of the city, is the most fashion- able promenade. Here is a monu- ment, in commemoration of the bloody massacre by Murat, on IMarch, 1808. Being received with shouts of anger, he seized upon somt! hundreds of the popu- lac(!, of all ages and conditions, had them tried by court-martial, and executed on tliis spot. 636 Route 138.— IRUN TO MADRID. SPAIN. The Royal Palace is a magnifi- cent structure ; it is a large square edifice, each front extending 470 ft., and is 100 ft. higli. It com- mands a fine prospect. The Duke of Wellington resided in this palace after the battle of Sala- manca. The interior is splendid. The grand staircase, the Hall of the Ambassadors, and the numerous saloons are all worthy of this most beautiful of royal palaces, and perfectly justify the remark which Napoleon I. made to his brother Joseph, when ascending the stair- case: — " Mon jrire, vous seriez mietix loge que mui." The saloon called the Hall of tlie Ambassadors is magnificently decorated ; the ceiling is one of the chej'-d'ccuvres of the Venetian Tiepolo. The ceilings of the dining-hall and the audience chamber are much ad- mired. They are both by Mengs. The Sala del 7')07iocontains a choice collection of coins and medals. The Gabinete contains some tine specimens of china. There are several fine pictures of the Italian school, and also some by native masters, in the various saloons. On the south side of the palace is the Royal Armoury, which con- tains the finest collection of his- torical armour in the world. This gallery has a very imposing ap- pearance : the equestrian figures are placed in the centre, and knights in armour stand at the sides, surrounded by warlike im- plements of every description. Overhead are hung various ban- ners. On the walls are some splendid shields. Admission to the palace by permit from the Inten- dente de la Casa Real. El Museo is a splendid gallery, containing 2000 pictures, of which 46 are by Murillo, 10 by Raphael, 62 by Rubens, 64 by Velasquez, 34 by Tintoretto, and 43 by Titian. (Strangers are admitted every day). This vast and precious col- lection was first formed in 1828, and is universally admitted to comprise the richest collection of works of art in the world. In order to form this museum, all the royal residences have been de- prived of their best works, both in painting and sculpture. The monasteries contained a consider- able number of works of the first order ; that of L' Escorial, above all, containing the best works of Leonardo da Vinci, Correggio, Titian, Raphael, and some admi- rable paintings of the Flemish School. When the convents were suppressed, and the monastic or- ders dispersed, all these works were carried off to enrich the Royal Museum of Madrid. At the en- trance are three galleries. The two on the right and left are de- voted to the works of the Spanish painters; the middle gallery con- tains iill the works of the Italian school. At the extremity of the long gallery there is a circular saloon, in which are deposited the few works of the German and French schools that this museum contains; on either side of which are two other galleries appro- priated to the paintings of the Dutch and Flemish Schools. A large staircase leads to galleries on the ground floor, in which are a great many works belonging to all the schools, and which were for the most part taken from the EscuriaL The paintings of Velasquez will be found particularly worth notice. Here is the famous picture of " The Drunkards" ( Los Bebed ores), by that master. This prince of Spanish painters is here seen in all the splendour of his genius, and the whole of his works will repay a careful study. The mu- seum is enriched by many famous productions of jMurillo, the pupil of Velasquez. The Italian school SPAIN. Route 138.— IRUN TO MADRID. 637 is well represented by some of the chief works of the most celebrated masters, includinj^ Leonardo da Vinci, Andrea del Sarto, Correpf- gio, and Raphael. Here are tiiree fine productions of the latter mas- ter, in which the subject of the " Ploly Family," is treated in dif- ferent ways, and is distint^uished in each by a particular name. Thus, one is called " La Perla," which once belonn^ed to Cliarles I. of England. Another picture has been called the " Virgin of the Ruins," from the character of the composition ; and a third is known as the " Virgin of tiie Fish." The museum may boast of the richest collection of the works of Titian in the world. There are also several masterpieces by Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, Sebastiano del Piombo, Guido, Guercino, and Lanfranc. The German and French schools are rather scantily repr.'sented, and the paintings mixed together in the circular saloon at the end of the long gallery. Tlie princi- pal work of Albert Diirer is a small " Crucifixion," brought from the Escurial. Of the works of Nicolas Poussin the museum contams twelve, principally land- scapes and liistorical pieces. There are nine chefs-d'oeu\Te of Claude. There are several works of the great Flemish painter, Rubens, the most celebrated of which is " The Virgin and Saints." There are several portraits by Van Dyck, also some of his finest historical pieces ; several speci- mens of the works of Rembrandt and Jordaens ; and a very nume- rous collection of those of the two Teniers (father and son). The gallery of antique sculpture occu- pies the greater part of tlie ground- floor of this museum, but is not very remarkable either in value or extent. The MvsEO National, situated in the Calle de Atocha, contains about 900 pictures. This building (the ancient convent of the Trinity) is used for the offices of the IMinister of I'ublic Works; and tiiose who wish to visit the " National Museum," must wait till after office-hours. The other picture galleries are at the AfADKMY of San Fer- nando (about 300 pictures) ; at the Palace of the Infante don Sebastian (admission by card, to be obtained of the F.ncars^ado'), containing about 600 pictures; also the galleries of the Duke of iNIedina-Celi, the Duke of Alba, the Marquis of Javal-Quinto, and, above all, the gallery of historical portraits belonging to Senor Valentin Cardera, admission to any of wjiich may be obtained by cards, as above mentioned. The RovAi. Si'ANisii Academy con- tains a Museum of Natural His- tory, and some fine pictures. The two largest libraries arc the RovAL LiiiRAnv and the Liurarv OF San Isidro. There are six theatres, three circuses, and seve- ral scientific and literary institu- tions. Madrid offers but little attraction to the antiquary in her churches, bearing in this respect a most unfavourable contrast to other cities of Spain. The chapel of NStre Dame d'Atochd, at tlie end of the pro- menade of Atocha, contains the ancient and celebrated image of the Virgin, wliich has been an object of traditional veneration for many ages past, especially by the royal families of Spain, the members of which were in the habit of worshipping here every Saturday. Isabella II. was married here, and, according to usual custom, presented her wedding dress to the image. At the Revolution of 638 Route 138.— IRUN TO MADRID. SPAIN. 1868 the treasure belonging to this image was seized by tlie government, and has been valued at £100,000. Many fabulous stories are told about the miracles performed by this statue. The Plaza de Toros is situated at a short distance outside the superb gate at the end of the Calle de Alcala. It is an amphitheatre, calculated to ac- commodate 12,000 spectators. The central space is enclosed by a strong wooden barrier, about 5 ft. high, narrow ledges, about 8 in. from the ground, being attached to it on either side, so as to assist the bull-fighters in spring- ing over it when makmg their escape. Outside this barrier is a second and higher one, leaving a passage between them, about 5 ft. wide. In the elevated region known as the Sierra de Guadarama are situated two of the most famous among the royal residences of Spain — the palace of the Escu- EiAL, and that of La Gravja, or San lldefomo, both within the limits of Old Castile. The former, which is 27 miles north-west of Madrid (reached by railway in 1 hour and 20 minutes), lies at the southern foot of the moun- tains. The Escurial contains the splendid mausoleums of many of the sovereigns of Spain, together with a fine collection of pictures, a library of 100,000 volumes (rich in Arabic literature), and a col- lege. The ground-plan of the Escurial bears some resemblance to the shape of a gridiron — the implement of torture upon which St, Lawrence, to whom it is de- dicated, is said to have suffered martjrrdom. The palace of La Granja is upon the northern face of the Sierra, and is 40 miles distant from the capital. It is situated in a sheltered recess of the moun- tains, in the midst of pine forests, and at a height of 4,000 ft. above the sea, forming a delightful summer retreat from the intense heat of the capital. Route 139. BAYONNE TO MADRID, BY PAMPELUNA AND SA- RAGOSSA. 445 miles ; ist class, 297r. 50c. ; 2nd, 226r. 75c. HE journey as far as tl^ Alsuasa (63| miles) is by the last Route. Pam- PEHJNA (96^ miles), (Hotels : del Infante, del Florentine, de JoseOtermin, dePascualMarceli- no), population, 17,500. Residence of the Captain-General of Na- varre, and seat of a Bishop suffra- gan of Burgos. This is one of the ancient Roman cities of Spain. It is built on an eminence, com- manding line views of the country around. The walls by which it is surrounded, and which have been subject to many sieges, are in a very incomplete state, but the fortress, which fronts the river, is in tolerably good condition. The Cathedral is one of the finest in Spain. It is in the Gothic style, and the exterior especially presents a very grand appearance. The only circumstance that mars its general magnificence, is that the western fayade, dating from the end of the last century, is a strange contrast with the rich Gothic style of the remainder of the cathedral. Its plan is that of a Latin cross, and it is composed of five naves. In the centre is the choir. The grille of the choir is particularly worth notice, as a chef-d'muvre. SPAIN. 7?o«fel39.— B.-irOiViYE TO MADRID. 639 At the entrancf are tbo tombs of Charles III. of Navarre, and his wife Leonora of Castile. The two alabaster statues are in a recum- bent position, dressed in the royal robes, and crowned. Tlio wains- coting^ of the clioir is a superb specimen of carvin7id, 19.00 reals. LAVING INIadrid, we reacii Getafi (9 miles), population 3,.i00. The Church contains some good paintings and a liandsome ratable. At '^ Pinto (13^ milrs) are the ruins of a c:istlf in which Philip II. imprisoned the Princess of Eboli. At Valdeinoro (17 miles) is the training' college for candidates for the Guardias Civil. There are some saline sprin^rs in the neighbourhood of Cieinpoznetos ('JO.J mih's). AiiANji'Fz (30J mih-s), {Holeh: del Xorte, del hifatite), jjopulation 4,000. This place, formerly a royal summer residence, is situated near the confluence of the Tagus and Jarama. The palace contains nothing worthy of particular mention. Here are some tine elms imported from England by Philip II. The girth of one of them is upwards of 90 ft. The Casa del Labrador (labourer's cottage) is beautifully furnished with tapes- try, (5ic. It w.as built by Charles IV. Some parts of the interior are beautifully painted. The prin- cipal saloon is also elaborately- painted. At Ca.s(i//e/o (40 miles) the line for Toledo leaves the main line for Alicante and Va- lencia. Toledo (56J miles), {Hotels: de Lino, de Huefpedes), popula- tion 18,000. Of all excursions in the environs of ^ladrid, that to Toledo will be found the most interesting. This city has an important place in the pages of history. Under the Goths it was the capital of Spain, and the seat of 17 coun- cils; under the Moors it was the seat of a small kingdom; it was conquered by Alphonso \'l.. King of Castille and Leon, and became the capital of Castille, and after- wards of all Spain. \Vhen in th© height of its splendour, the city contained 200,000 inhabitants. It is the most curious of all the cities of old Spain. Toledo is tiie seat of an arch- bisho]), and the chief town of a province. It is built on a decli- vity, at the foot of which the Tagus describes a long curve, flowing between the rocks, and ss 642 Jtoute UO.— MADRID TO TOLEDO. SPAIN. passing under two bridges. The ^alls give it the appearance of an old fortress. The principal archaeological curiosities are as follows : The Ptierta del Sol, a beautiful gate, of Jloorish construction, the palaces, and, above all the rest, the Al- cazar, the towers of which over- look the city. It was the resi- dence of the kings, and, in spite of the degradations to which it has been forced to submit, we can still judge of its former beauty. The Cathedral was founded by St. Eugene, apostle of Toledo. The Moors turned it into a mosque ; the King, Ferdinand the Catholic, in 1227, began the building of the present church. The general plan is that of five parallel naves, the heiglit of which dinjinislies towards the sides. The cathedral has eight gates, of marvellous workmanship, of Gothic sculp- ture, with the exception of one, where the bad taste has been dis- played of adding a Greek portal. There is a three-storied tower, rising to the height of 325 ft. In the interior are 88 pillars, formed by clusters of small co- lumns. The choir contains a fine specimen of carved wood-work. The chapels are numerous, and are richly decorated with paint- ings and monuments. The two principal are the Capilla Mayor and the Mozambe ; in the latter chapel there are some fine fres- coes. The cathedral possesses trea- sures of immense value. The sacristy contains numerous vest- ments covered with precious stones, and gold and silver plate of enormous value. There are 750 windows in the Cathedral, and wlien the sun streams through the riciily-painted glass it pre- sents a scene of unequalled splen- ,Jour. Some years since the doors of this vast treasure-house were unhesitatingly tlirown open to tourists, but since the opening of the railway, tlie archbishop, alarmed, doubtless, at the in- creased number of unknown visi- tors, has caused the chapels con- taining all this treasure to be closed, and it is exceedingly diflB- cult to get permission to view them. The cloisters have been sadly mutilated by tlie French. Here are some monuments, and the Library of the Chapter, which contains some curious old manuscripts and very valuable illuminated missals. The most frequented prome- nade in Toledo is in the Plaza of the Zocodover. This place has from very early- times been celebrated for its cut- lery, especially for the manufac- ture of sword-blades. This is still a fruitful source of industry, though the rivalry of Sheffield and other places has deprived it of that ancient prestige which once secured it almost a mono- poly amongst the military powers of southern and western Europe. Small arms for the Siianish army are still made at the Fabrica de Armas, which is shown to visi- toi"s. It is said that the water and the sand of the Tagus are essen- tial for the proper tempering of the swords. j\lr. Borrow's testi- mony as to the comparative merits of the famous Toledan blades of olden date and those that are now fabricated, appears to contradict the opinion conmionly entertained on the subject. He inquired of the workmen whether they could manufacture weapons of equal value to those of former days, and whether the secret liad been lost. "Ca!" said they, "the swords of Toledo were never so good as those which we are dailj SPAIN. Route 140.— MADRID TO TOLEDO. 643 makin"'. It is ridiculous enoug-h to SCI' straii<,'('rs coiiiiiii^ here to purcliase olil swords, tin- greati-r part of whicli are imTc rubbish, and never made at Toledo ; yet for such they will ijive a large price, whilst they would grud^^e two dollars for this jewel, which was made hut yesterday'," th(>re- uj)()n ])uttiii^ into my hand a middle-sized raj)ier. " Vour wor- ship," said they, " seems to hav(> a strong arm, prove its temper against the stone wall — thrust boldly, and fear not." I have a strong arm, and dashed the ])oint with my utmost force against the solid granite; my ann was numbed to the shoulder from the violence of the concussion, and continued so for nearly a week, but the sword appeared not to be at all blunted, ur to have suffered in any respect. Route 141. MADRID TO ALICANTE. Q78 miles; ist clasa, 200.25 reah ; 2nd, 155.25 reals; 3id, 95.25 reals. (For description of route as far as Castillejo, see Route.) preceding ,LCAZAR de San Juan ('.'2i miles), popula- tion 7,650. Here is the branch-line to Anda- lusia, and to Ciudad Reale. This is one of the ancient cities of Spain. It has successively been in the possession of the Romans, the Goths, and the Arabs. Later, it was besieged by the Knights of the Order of St. .lohn of .lerusa- lem. At a distance of 15 miles from Alcazar is the village of Tobosoj — a name familiar to all readers of Don Quixote, in con- nection with the erratic knight's lady-love, Dulcinea del I'oboso. Alca/.iris by some supposed to be the birth-place of Cervantes, but this is dis|>uted. Passing some places of no interest, we reach Aluacktk (174.J miles), (Ho- tels : Purudor de Dili^encias, de San Juan), population L5,250. Here are some small cutlery works, the principal articles of their manufacture being sword- blades and daggers, for the most part hiijhly ornamented. The principal buildings are the parish church, the Hotel de Ville, the Palace of Justice, the Theatre (for- merly a monastery). At CiiiNcnii.LA (186 miles') the line to Cartagena branches off to the right. Almtinsa (233| miles), popula- tion 9, OOi). This place is tolerably well built, with wide and straight streets, but not paved. An an- cient castle overlooks the town. In the neighbourhood is erected an obelisk, in commemoration of a battle between the English and French, on April 25, 17(-17. The French being commanded by an Englishman, a natural son of James IL, and the English by a Frenchman. The victory wa.s gained by the French. The in- scrij)tion on the monument is in Latin and Spanish. At La Encina (245.^ miles) the line to ^'alencia turns off to the left. At I'illemi we see an old castle on the sum- mit or a hill, and an old .Moorish Alcazar, in ruins, at Elda. Pass- ing through a very fertile country, we reach Ai.icANTi: (278 miles), (HoteU: Fonda del Vapor, Fonda de Bosio'), popularion 32,000. This, tiie port of Madrid, is frecpiented by the ships of all nations. There is direct communication by steam between Alicante and all the .Me- 644 Route Ui.— MADRID TO ALICANTE. SPAIN. diterranean ports. The city pos- sesses some fine buildings, but the streets are badly paved. The Picture Gallery of the Marquis del Angolfa contains some of the paintings of Murillo, Velasquez, Albert Diirer, &c. ; also a collection of medals. Per- mission will be granted to visit the Castle, by sending card, with names, to the Governor. The Castle itself is an object of great interest, and a splendid view of the sea and surrounding country can be obtained therefrom. A- mong other objects of interest are the Ayuntamiento and the Episcopal Palace. There is an extensive to- bacco manufactory, employing between 4,000 and 5,000 women and girls. The Plaza del Toro can accom- modate 11,000 spectators. Ali- cante is a thriving seaport town, its trade principally consisting in the export of wine, raisins, al- monds, esparto (for paper-mak- ing), saffron, and minerals. In 1823 it was the last city which surrendered to the French. Route 142. MADRID TO CARTHA- GENA. 328 miles ; 1st class, 261 rx. 75 c. ; 2nd, 186 rx. 75 e. ; 3rd, 115 rx. 75 c. (For the route as far as Chinchilla (186 miles) see preceding Route.) HE first place of im- portance is H ELLIN (2363- miles), in the neiglibourliood of which are considerable sulphur mines. On leaving Hellin we pass, on the right, a mountain range inter- sected by deep valleys. The plain in front is covered with olive plantations. About Calasparra (240^ miles), are extensive rice- iields. The country is very fer- tile, and abounds with fruit-trees of all kinds. Archeria (261 miles) is cele- brated for its mineral and tepid springs, which are very much fre- quented. Alcantarilla (281 5 miles) is si- tuated in the midst of a district rich in cornfields and vineyards. In the far distance, on the right, is the sanctuary of Fuen Santa. On the left are a convent of the Hieronymites, and the govern- ment gunpowder manufactory. MuRCiA (286^- miles), (Hotels: Francesa, Patron), population 110,000. This city is surrounded by a tract of the most fertile country in Spain, watered by a system of irrigation introduced by the Moors. The Cathedral, for- merly a mosque, and subsequently a church belonging to the Knights Templars, was restored in the 18th century. The reliefs, sculp- tures, and statues which adorn the facade are all finely executed. The three entrances are sur- mounted by groups which are especially striking. The style of the building is semi-gothic, ex- cejjt the cupola, which is Grsco- Roman. A sarcophagus in the principal chapel contains the re- mains of King Alphonso the Wise. The sacristy contains a bas-relief, in walnut-wood, representing the Descent from the Cross. The tower is 450 ft. high. The Episcopal Palace has a handsome marble staircase, fine apartments, and a good library. There is a good Botanical Garden, and the public promenades are extensive and well laid out. Murcia is celebrated for its silk SPAIN. Route U2.— MADRID TO CIRTHAGEXA. 045 manufactures. The countrj bp- comcs by dfofrei'S bleak and barren. On tlie left, near Bazilcas (31'2.J miles), is a lar<;e lake, aboundinj^ with fish, scparatf'd from the sea by a tongue of sand, and communicating witli it by a narrow channel. I.a I'alma and Pozo Estrecho (S'JOj miles) are celebrated for their wines. The level country through which we next pass has a clay soil, and pro- duces little except grapes. Cartiiagena (3'^8 miles), {Ho- tels: Francesca, de Ins Ciiatro Na- ciones), population oo, 000. This town was called by the Jiomans Colonia Victrix Julia. Its port, on the Mediterranean, is, next to that of Vigo, the largest in Spain, and the roadstead is magnificent. The Arsenal, magazines, ship- yards, inc., are on a large scale. There are important lead mines in the neighbourhood. It has no public buildings worthy of par- ticular mention. The old Cathe- dral is little better than a ruin. Route 143. MADRID TO VALENCIA. 318i miles: Ist class, 212.69 reals; 2>id, 163.79 reals; 3rd, 99.12 reals. (For description of route as far as La Enciiia (245^ miles), see Route 141). ''P^'i;/^ LAVING La Encina we /'rf-jj'jj* ]ia.ss through a tunnel '^"'^ nearly a mile long, and i^ ti-averse a fertile dis- trict to MoGENTE(263i miles). On the right we see tlie ruins of the an- cient castle of IMontesa, formerly belonging to a military order of that name. Jativa (280J miles), popula- tion, 14,2(K). 'i'his was one of the principal cities built by the Arabs in this beautiful country. Here are a large number of ancient iMauresque buildings ; also a fine Castle, a town-hall, a handsome collegiate church, a market-hall for the sale of silk, a flaza del Toro, some hosi)itals, a number of convents, and several delightful promenades. The railway now leaves behind the mountainous tract, and enters upon a well-cultivated country. It is this part, with .Andalusia, that the Moors called the " Para- dise of the West." The climate is su])erb, and the whole country very fruitful — rice, wheat, barley, pepper, citrons, oranges, olives, and palm-trees growing in great luxuriance. Passing several places which call for no particular men- tion, we reacli Valencia (3185 miles), (Ho- tels : de Paris, del Cid, Madrid, Francesca), population, 146,000. This is a large and beautiful city, the capital of the province of the same name, situated on the banks of the Guadalaviar. It is the see of an archbishop, the residence of a captain-general, and the seat of a University. The city is almost circular in form, and surrounded by walls, whicli were built in 1356, and are still in a tolerably perfect condition. ^'alencia has regular and fre- quent steam communication with all the ."Mediterranean ports. The climate is delicious. The Cardinal de Retz called this region the most beautiful garden in the whole world. It has been, in turn, the favourite of the Roman, the Goth, and tlie Saracen — to the last of whom it owed its chief increase and magnificence. As a seat of 646 Route U3.— MADRID TO VALENCIA. 3PAIN. learning- in the best days of j\Ia- hommedan Spain, Valencia ranked fiecond only to Cordova. In the 11th century it was wrested from the iNIoors by Rodrigo Diaz de Bivar, surnamed the Cid. He maintained his conquest to the close of his life, when the Chris- tians were obliged to abandon tlie place, taking with them the body of their deceased lord. It was borne on a litter, attended by the entire garrison marching in pro- cession, before which the as- tonished Moors, not aware of the Cid's death, opening a passage, fled. During the 13th century, Va- lencia again fell to the Christians. King- James of Arragon, joined by a body of French led by the Bishop of Narbonne, besieged the city ; and at length the Aloors, reduced by famine, were com- pelled to surrender it. The Cathedral (called La Seo) Las been greatly inj ured by modern additions. It occupies the site of a Roman temple of Diana. It became a church under the Goths, and a mosque under the Arabs. The octagonal steeple, called El Mi- gueleie, is 130 ft. higli. The interior has three vaulted naves, supported by pillars with Corinthian capitals. One side of the choir is encrustrd with alabaster, and adorned with splendid paintings of subjects taken from Scripture history. The Cathedral possesses an im- mense quantity of relics and beau- tiful ornaments ; also some curious old documents and liturgies, in- cluding an Englisii missel said to be from Westminster Abbey. Amongst the ciiurches worth visiting are those of Sun Martin, with a notewortliy statue over the door, of the saint on horseback, parting- his cloak in order to give alms to the poor, and in which are some fine paintings; San Nico- las, formerly a Moorish mosque; Santa Catalina, an ancient mosque, with its light and elegant tower ; Santos J iianes, containing fine fres- coes and marbles ; San Salvador ; San Andres, containing- some good painting's; and San Juan del Hos- pital, where is the tomb of the Em- press Constance- Augusta, of Con- stantinople, who took refuge in Spain, and died there. Valencia possesses many convents, the most important of which is that of the Temple, an ancient Moorish palace, transformed into a con- vent by the Templars. Amongst the many public establishments the most important is the Colegio de Corpus, founded in 1586, and finished in 1605, by Arch- bishop Juan Ribera. The chapel of the college should be visited during the service on Friday morn- ing, at 10. The interior is pur- posely darkened, and the service is very interesting. The picture above the high altar is removed by invisible machinery, and the vacancy is supplied in turn by several sombre veils, of different colours, till at length appears the representation of the Crucifixion — a superb specimen of carving in dark wood. During- all this time the Miserere is chanted by the choir. Valencia possesses several hos- pitals, and a University with a library of 40,000 volumes. The Museum, formerly a convent, pos- sesses many pictures, the best being- those by the Spanish mas- ters ; one being a modern paint- ing- of Don Quixote and his trusty servant Sancho, by a young Catalan artist, named Serran. Tliis picture gained the prize at the Exhibition in JMadrid,in 1867, and was bought by Ex-Queen Isabella, and presented by her to this Museum. The Casa Consisto- rial contains some good paintings. The promenades are very fine. SPAIN. Route US.— MADRID TO VALENCIA. 647 Tbe most a^eeable are the Clori- eta, a dianiiirif; <;arden, j)lanted with flowers ami trees, where a military baud ])lays every even- iiifj; the Alameda, at I lie entrance to the city; the BoUinical Garden; aud the Ciaeen'i Cntrden, noted for the beauty ot'its fruits aud flowers. Some fine houses round the city possess excellent gardens. A'alencia is a place ot" commer- cial importance, and has a fine harbour. Xery curious and pri- mitive public vehicles are here used, called tuitunas, a kind of covered cart without springs. Valencia was the first city in Spain where a priutiui;' office was established. In ISUii the inhabi- tants exhibited jj^reat spirit in rising aiifainst the French. Three hundred French were massacred at the citadel, where they had taken refuge. ^Marshal .Moncey besieged the place, hut was com- pelled to raise the siege. In 181'J the city was retaken by Marshal t^uciiet, who was named the Duke of Albufera, from a lake in the neighbourhood. The \ alencians signalised them- selves in 1835 by an insurrection; in 1836 by a fresh outbreak ; in 1838 by a sanguinary tumult. In 1843 Valencia began the military insurrection which restored the kingdom to the Queen-mother, and gave to the chief of the move- ments General Narvaez, the title of l)uke of \ alencia. Route 144. MADRID TO CORDOVA, SEVILLE AND CADIZ. 4o0| miles; 1st class, 311.95 reals ^ 2nd, 238.70 reaU; 3id, 146.20 reals. (For description of route as far a8 Alcazar de San Juan, see Routes 140-1.) e^^^p-LCAZAR de San Juan. ?'/'3v4 (-'-i mdes). Here a ^'i_j.Vfl» line brandies ofl^ to Ali- ^J^f^ig cante and to \'alencia. Ari^umasUla deAllia ( 108 J miles), The village of this name is some distance from the station. The place has received some notoriety from being reported as the spot ■where Cervantes wrote the first chapters of his celebrated ro- mance. The house was occu- pied some years since by a printer of Madrid, M. Ribadeneira, who turned it into a printing-oftice, aud issued from thence a very fine edition of " Don Quixote. We obtain a view of the mountain range of the Sierra Morena as we approach Manzanares (123| miles), (Ho- tel : El Farador), population 9,250). Tliis is a pleasant, well- built town, with a modern Gothic stone churcl). {A branch line turns otFto Ciudad Real.; Tlie country around is very de- lightful and fi'uittul. Extensive vineyards will be seen on the ap- proach to Val de Fenas (,134-J miles), population 11,500. This town is celebrated for the wine which bears its name. La Venta de Cardenas (167 miles). This neighbourhood is famed as being the scene of Don Quixote's exploits — where he libe- 648 Route 144.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. SPAIN. rated the galley-slaves, and un- derwent his penance. Lhwres (192 miles), popula- tion 17,000). The town is eight miles distant from the station. Here are extensive sulphur, lead and copper mines belonging to the state. The population prin- cipally consists of those engaged in the mines. It has a fine Roman fountain. The English cemetery was consecrated by the Bishop of Gibraltar, in 1866. Several Roman ruins and some mutilated sculptures are to be seen in this neighbourhood. Tourists who wish to visit the town and mines should do so from Baeza (197^ miles), population 11,500. The town of Baeza is eight miles distant from the sta- tion and two miles from Linares. Jt is on the site of an old Roman town called Beatia Bmcida. The parts worth noting are its old walls and Aliaiares tower, the deserted Franciscan convent and the Cathedral. It is said to have been the birthplace of St. Ursula. Andiijar (226^ miles), popula- tion 12,110. This town is on the River Guadalquivir, Passing se- veral places of no interest we reach Cordova (^76^ miles), (Hotels: Suiza, Rizzi), population 43,000. It is situated on the right bank of the Guadalquivir. The walls which still surround the city, flanked with square, round and octagonal towers, are the work of many ages. This was the nursery and fa- vourite shelter of learning, art and science, when Europe was sunk in darkness and barbarism. Few cities have a more delightful site. It is the chief town of one of the five provinces which form the Captaincy-General of Anda- lusia, and the see of an arch- bishop. Its most important build- ing is the Mosque, as the Cathe- dral is still called. When the Mohammedans established them- selves in Spain, Abd-el-Rahman determined to erect in the capital of his empire a mosque which should surpass in magnificence all former erections, and he chose for the purpose this site, which was originally that of a Roman temple to Janus, The exterior has the appearance of a vast fortress. The interior contains a great number of co- lumns of various colours and of the most costly description. The space is so large, the columns so numerous, that there are 19 pa- rallel naves from north to south and 36 rows of columns from east to west. The magnificent pulpit is so spacious that it has been con- verted into a chapel. Out of 1,096 monolithic columns which remain in the mosque, 115 were brought from Nimes and Narbonne in France, 60 from Seville and Tar- ragona, 140 from Constantinople, and the remainder from Carthage and other cities of Africa. They are of jasper, porphyry, verd- antique and other choice marbles. Cordova possesses two alcazars. The Old Alcazar is now only a mass of Roman and Moorish ruins. The New Alcazar was built by Al- phonso VI., who wished to imi- tate the IMoresque style of build- ing. In the middle ages, the latter was the abode of the In- quisition; it is now used as a prison. Some of the churches deserve a visit. The collegiate church of San Hipolito contains the jasper monuments of the Kings Ferdi- nandlV. and Alphonso XI. Santa Marina is one of the oldest Gothic churches of Andalusia. SanPedro, more ancient still, was a Christian temple towards the close of the Roman rule and under the Goths. SPAIN. Route lU.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. 649 Close by tlie mosqup, upon a stone platform above the river, tliere is a monument to ti)e Arch- angel Raphael, the guardian of the city. There are some fine promenades and fountains. On leaving- Cordova tlie railway proceeds in a strainht line across tlie maijnificent jilain which sur- rounds the great Moorish city. citv, surrounded by hills. In this neighbourhood, on the .Monte de Sete Fillas, is a chapel dedicated to the \'irgiii, and containing an image to whicli miraculous powers are attributed. This chapel is visited once a year by the whole population, which is the occasion of a granii fete. \Ve cross the Guadalquivir be- fore reaching Carmoiia (333 miles), SEVILLE. Almndavar (290 miles), popula- tion 1400. Hehind this town is an ancient castle, built by the Moors, some parts of wliich still remain in a tolerable state of pre- servation. The principal tower is about 125 ft. high. There are four other mutilated towers. 'J'he view from the high tower extends an immense distance across the country, and, in one direction, to the Sierra Morena. Lora del Rio(321 J miles), popu- lation .5,000. An ancient Roman population 18,200, an ancient iMoorish city, built on the summit of a hill which overlooks the plain, and surroundi'd by the ruins of its fortifications. This city is remarkable for the number of its lioman and ^loorish remains. The Gate of Carmona is a monument of the massy work- manship of its Roman colonists. It is thought to be of the time of Trajan, and in some parts it has been injudiciously rejjairt'd in the modem style. Among other an- 650 Route 144.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. SPAIN. tiquities there is a beautiful Roman temple. Carmona commands a view of an extensive country covered with olive-trees, and pro- ducing abundance of wheat of the best quality. Seville (356| miles), (Hotels: de Paris, de Madrid, Europa, de Londres), population 152,000. Admirably situated on the banks of the Guadalcjuivir, in the midst of a fertile plain, this ancient city is defended by walls more than a league in circumference. Seville ranked the tirst of the four Andalusian capitals — the most extensive city in the king- dom ; and it was a favourite say- ing- of the old Andalusians, that whoever had not seen the famous city had not seen a wonder. Under the sway of the Moors, it attained its highest degree of prosperity and power ; and the surrounding- country had the ap- pearance of one vast garden. Seville was the chosen residence of one of the first conquerors of the Gotlis — the celebrated Aluza, who laid the foundation of its sijlendour and prosperity. The modern city is divided into thirty parishes ; it has eighty-four con- vents, and twenty-four hospitals. Seville has retained its ancient character — its narrow, winding streets and tine houses present- ing more the appearance of a Moorish town than many others in Spain. The modern houses, of two or three stories, have a pretty ap- pearance, painted in light blue, pale yellow, pale rose colour, or grey. Most of them have niira' dares, — projecting glazed bal- conies, ornamented with flowers and elegant drapery. Many of the habitations have patios, or inner courts, which are generally separated from the street by halls paved with white and black marble, and closed in, from the halls, by exquisitely-worked iron grilles. All round the patio is a colonnade, above which is a gallery which forms the corridor of the dwelling. A fountain plays in the centre, and across the court an awning is spread, as a protection from the rays of the sun. The Gate of Triaiia is a beau- tiful structure of the Doric order, with coupled columns. It was the principal entrance to the city — that at which the kings were re- ceived when they visited Anda- lusia. Plazas. The Plaza Nueva, or Plaza de la Infanta Isabel, is a large square parade, where there is scarcely any protection from the sun, except that which is afforded by some orange trees. The Plaza san Francisco, or Plaza de la Con- stitucion, at the end of the Calle de la Sierpe, is more animated. In the centre is an elegant white marble fountain. On this square, forming an irregular cjuadrilateral, is the ancient front of the Convent of the Franciscans, the grand build- ing of the Casa de Ciiulad, and the Audiencia, The Plaza del Duque — named after the large and splendid palace of the Duke of Medina Sidonia, which occupies the whole of one side — is a shaded and much frequented promenade. The Plaza de la Magdalena is planted with trees, surrounded with stone seats. The Plaza de la Encarnucion is a public market. The Plaza del friunfo is an irregular space, bounded by the three most re- markable edifices of the city — the Cathedral, the Alcazar, and the Lnnja. Tlie cross-way of the Campana, is to Seville what the Puerta del Sol is to Madrid. The city is supplied with water by means of the tine Roman aque- duct, called Los Canos de Carmona, from Alcala El Guadaira. The Cathedral is the finest and SPAIN. Route Ul.— MADRID TO CORDOV.l. C.31 largest in Spain. It occupies tlie Bite of the successive temples ol" Astart<% Saliiiubo, ami .Maliomet. The orit,'iiial iiiosciut', on the site of which (;)'.)8 ft., east to west, by '291 ft. north to south ) it is built, was taken down at th<' bejjinning of the 15th century, anil the ca- theiiral was completed in l.51'.». Both externally and internally, it is a museum of tine art, in spite of rej)eateil spoliations — Campana, JMunllo, \'ari;as, tiie llerreras, and other ])ainters of the Seville school, and* Moutanes, Roldan, Del!i:ado, andother eminent sculp- tors, havinfj contributed to iidorn it. It consists of five aisles; the two at the sides being railed oft" for chapels; the centre nave is maijniliceiit, and its height is 145 ft. at the transept dome. There are ninety-tlirei' windows in the building, of which the painted ones are among the finest in Eu- rope. At tlie west end of the centre aisle lies buried Fernando, son of Columbus. One of the most remarkable objects in Seville is the GiKALDA, or great jMoorish tower attached to the cathedral. This belfry, unicjue in Europe, was built in 1196, by command of Abu Jusuf Vacub. The original tower was only iioO ft. high, the additional 100, comprising the rich tiligree belfry, was added in 1568, by Fernando liuiz, and is very elegant. On grand festivals it is lighted up at night. The pin- nacle is crowned with El Giran- ditto, a female bronze tigure of Faith, holding the Labavo, or baniu-r of Constantine. When Seville surrendered to the victorious Christians, the Mos- lems, dreading to behold the de- secration of the most sacred of their edifices, stipulated that the mosi|ue and its tower, the pride of the city, should be razed ; but for- tunately their request was not complit'd with, and the Giralda yet continues the pride and bo:ist of the " Sevillanos." It wius from the gallery of this great tower that the muezzins used to summon the faithful to prayers. There are nine doors : that of San Christo- bal has a colossal fresco of St. Christopher above it. The Coro (choir), is in the middle of the central nave. The high altJir is surrounded by a grille of exquisite workmanshij). The silleria com- prises V27 stalls, in the Gothic stjle. The organs attract attention by their iinmense size and elabo- rate ornamentation. lo the Cathedral is attached a library, containing '.'0,000 volumes collected by Hernando Columbus, son of the great navigator. The remains of his father were first deposited in the convent of St. Francisco, at \'alladalid, where he died; but in the Cathedral is a plain marbleslab, which bears the following inscription. " A CASTEI.LA Y A LEOV, SIL'NDO NUEVO DIG COLOX." * This tablet covered for a while the ashes of the great mariner, during their removal from \'alla- dolid to Havana, where they have since lain. The C'tpilla Real is entered uniler a lofty arch. In it are the monuments of A IpiionsoX., Queen Beatrix, wife of St. Ferdinand, and that of the celebrated .Maria Padilla, favourite of Don Pedro the Cruel. Before the altar is placed, in a shrine, the body of St, Ferdinand. 1 his siirme is a mo- nument of bronze, silver, gold, and crysral. Tlie body is to be seen, clothed in armour and crowned, and is in good state of preserva- tion. The curtains which conceal it are withdrawn three times a • " To Castiltt and to Leon, Columbus gave a new world,"^ 652 Route lU.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. SPAIN. year,— on the 30th May, 22nd August, and 23rd November ; on which occasions a grand military mass is performed, and the colours lowered to the celebrated saint and king. The Spanish banner and the sword of St. Ferdinand, also a small ivory image of the Virgin, which the king carried with him into battle, fastened to his saddle-bow, are kept in this chapel. There is a fine painted window of the Conversion of St. Paul in the Capilla de Santiago. In the Sacristia Mayor, besides the paintings by Murillo before mentioned, is the " Descent from the Cross," by Pedro Campana, supposed to be a pupil of JNIichael Angelo. This picture formerly decorated the parish church of Murillo, who used frequently to stand watcliing it, and desired to be buried before it. It was broken into five pieces by the French, but was afterwards re- stored. Amongst the riches con- tained in the Capilla Mayor, is an immense Custodia, in silver, fi- nished in 1587, by Juan d'Arfe. It forms a circular temple of four stories, and requires twenty-four men to carry it in procession. In this chapel are also shown the keys of the city, which were offered to King Ferdinand on his entry into Seville. A magnificent bronze can- dlestick, 25 it." high, called Et Te- nebrario, is put up during the cere- monies of Holy VVeek. Seville is renowned for religious processions. The grand ceremony of the Corpus Christi, is the most solemn and important of all. Strangers from all parts of Spain eagerly resort hitiier during that time. In front of the procession is borne the banner of tlie Cathe- dral, the staff and decorations of which are of silver and gold. The massive silver custodia above men- tioned, is also carried upon these occasions. Boys, in antique Spa- nish dresses, dance before the high altar during mass, both morning and evening, while the festival lasts. This is a privilege granted exclusively to this cathedral by the pope, of which the Sevillians are not a little proud. Of the 140 churches which existed in Seville before the French invasion, a con- siderable number were destroyed or converted into magazines du- ring Soult's short rule. Among the most interesting that survive, are the San Lorenzo, containing some fine works by Montahes and others ; San Ctemente, with a splendid roof, and a picturesque high-altar, by Montaiies ; the magnificent church of San Pablo ; San Pedro, with its Moorish tower ; .San Juan-de-la-Paima, formerly a mosque ; San Isidoro, which, among other fine pictures, contains El Transilo, the master - piece of Roelas ; Sta. Maria-la-Blanca, a synagogue prior (o 1391 ; San Sal- vador, a collegiate church ; San Vicente, founded in 300, &c. The Caridad contains two mag- nificent pictures by Murillo: the " Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes," and " Moses striking the rock ;" and two excellent medal- lions, Saint John the Baptist and the Child Jesus. The church of Sun Bernardo contains some good paintings. The Audiencia, or Palace of Jus- tice, is only remarkable for its ex- tent. The Cam de Moneda is a very large edifice. The Tobacco Manufactory is a vast building, surrounded by a moat, and which might be taken for a fortified bar- rack. There are 4,540 hands em- ployed here, 4,000 of them being women. There is a large foundry and artillery depot. The Univer- sitii contains nuie colleges, and there are 120 richly endowed hospitals. SPAIV. Route lU.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. 653 The Casa Lonja, or Consulado, is a fine buildinc^, forming a perfect square. 'I'he inner court, or patio, is paved with white and hhick marble, and in the middh; is a marble fountain. In tlio ui>i>er apartment the celebrated arciiives 01 India (£/ Archivode Indias) are kept. The Palace of the Ayuntamieiito is a striking edifice, its three fa- cades being ornamented with Co- rinthian columns, rich pilasters, medallions of exquisite workman- ship, witii a profusion of flowers, foliage, arabesciues, and figures of children and grotescjues. The in- terior apartments are very richly adornecf. The A LCAZAH, although not equal to the grand remains of the AI- hambra, is still an object of great interest. It contains seventy-eight apartments, all communicating with each other. The ceilings and walls are rich with arabesques, and are generally in a state of tolerable preservation. The most splendid of these saloons is the Hall of the Ambassadors. The lower portion of this, as well as that of the other apartments, is covered with glazed tiles, of the most beautiful and in- tricate pattern. This magnificent structure was built by Abdalasis, about half a eeutury before the conquest by St. Ferdinand. It was always the abode of monarchs, whenever the Spanish court was held at Seville. It weis considerably enlarged by Don Pedro, and received farther additions ami embellishments in the reign of Cli.irles V. Philip V. removed his entire court here from Madrid, with the intention of making it liis pprmanent residence. It has recently been embellished and decorated at the expense of the Duke of iMontpensier. A tine marble staircase leads from the upper rooms into the garden. This pleasant garden, as well as the entire palace and the court-yard is surrounded by a strong rampart, very lofty, and communicating with the city walls. Beyond this lies the Orange Grove. The Palace of San Telmn is the residence of the Duke of .Mont- pensier. The principal entrance consists almost entirely of costly marble, but is rather overcharged with ornaments. Here is a good Picture (iallery. The Gardens are very extensive. The Casa de Pilatos is said to be built of the exact dimensions and in imitation of Pontius Pilate's house at Jerusalem. The patio is magnificent, with the customary fountain in the centre. The black marble cross, it is reported, was made at Jerusalem, on the model of the true cross. This is the spot from whence the stations of the cross begin, ending at the C'rus del Campo. The Plaza de Torof, built in 17C>0, is capable of accommodating 12,000 spectators. One side was injured ny a hurricane, in 1805, and has not been since repaired. The bull-fights in Seville are con- sidered by Spaniards the best in Spain, owing to the peculiar wild- ness and strength of the bulls. The ^Il'sko, or Picture Gallery, is principally composed of works by the Si)anisli masters, especially those of .Murillo. Amongst others, that of " St. Thomas of \illanueva giving alms to the poor." Murillo considered this picture as his chef d'aavre. A small gratuity to the attendants is expected. A very good catalogue can be obtained for a trifling sum. The oldest of the Promenades is that of the Alameda de Hercules. Here are four avenues of fine trees with six fountains. The most fashionable is the Las Deli- 654 Route lU.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. SPAIN. cias de Christina, occupyino; tbe space betvveen tbe Golden Tower (Torre del Oro) and the palace of San Telmo. Tbe Torre del Oro, on tbe left bank of tbe Guadalquivir, is a very ancient tower, attributed in turn to tbe Romans and tbe Woors. Tbe Golden Tower bas played an important part in the bistoiy of Don Pedro of Castile. It is now used as offices. Leaving Seville we proceed along the valley of the Gua- dalquivir, and cross the Gua- daira. Tbe country abounds with groves of orange trees and olive-yards. Utrera (375 miles). Population 14,250. An ancient Moorish city, formerly fortified. It is situated in a charming valley. On one of the surrounding hills are the ruins of an old castle. The church of Santa J\[aria possesses numerous relics: amongst others, that which is said to be one of the thirty pieces of silver paid to Judas for the betrayal of our Saviour. Lebrija (401 miles). Popula- tion 11,500. It is situated on a hill which overlooks tbe ruins of an old castle, surrounded by a magnificent country, and formed of well built bouses. Jerez de la Frontera (Xeres), (421 miles). Population 50,000. This is a fine city, celebrated for tbe wmes to which it gives its name. Tbe houses are built and furnished with remarkably good taste. All thecountry round Jerez has the appearance of a vast vine- yard. Visitors are admitted to some of the princi])al vaults or caves (Bodegas), which are of im- mense extent. Jerez formerly possessed many convents ; these are now for tbe most part con- verted into barracks or wine depots. Tiiis place was founded by the Phoenicians. Before its walls, the Carthaginians and Romans fought a great battle, the issue of which was that tbe latter gained possession of the city and fortified it. It was in this neigh- bourhood, in 711, that the memo- rable battle took {)lace between the Goths and the Moors, which decided tbe fall of the monarchy of tbe Goths, and rendered the Moors masters of Andalusia. In 1252 the armies of the Catholic kings engaged with the Moors on tlie same battle-field, and took Jerez from them. These events are the subject of many of tbe heroic legends of old Spain. The rail proceeds in a straight line, through a very beautiful and picturesque country, towards the bay of Cadiz. Puerto de Santa Maria (Port St. Mary), (430 miles). Population 21,500. At the mouth and on the right bank of the Guadalete. The bull-fights here are tbe most celebrated in Spain. There are some delightful promenades and gardens. This city is said to have been founded by one of tbe Greek chiefs on his return from the siege of Troy. Puerto Real (435 miles). Popu- lation 5,500. The ancient port of Cadiz, Portus Gaditanus, founded by the Romans. The present city was founded about 1483, by Isabella, on the ruins of the Roman port. The maritime arsenal of La Ca- racca is entirely surrounded by the sea. San Fernando (442 miles), popu- lation 17,000. A fortified town. A number of ditches are dug in the marshes to collect the salt, the traffic in which is the principal business of tbe inhabitants. Be- sides tbe arsenal of Carraca, San Fernando possesses a shot foundry and barracks. Cadiz (450|- miles). (Hotels: sr.viN. Ih)utelU.—M.UJi:iD TO COHDOV.L 655 (k Paris, de Cadiz, de Europti, de las Cuatro Xacimtes, Aniericu, Population 71,(100. An exainin;ition of passengers' luggage takfs place bt-tween the railway station and the town. Cadiz is a garrison town, and the see of a bishop. The hay is three leagues in lengtli and two in breadth. The fort of St. Sehits- inijppendence, it was tlie gr^at dc'jxit of tiji.' commerce of 8[)ain witli the new world. In consti- tuting it a free port in 18'J7, an attem])t was made to recover some of its lost importanct", but witliout success. The situation and gt-neral aspect of the city and tiie bay caa be best seen from the .summit of a towt^r in the centre of the citv, Cv\DIZ. tian covers the entrance into the bay, and its eastern extremity is defended by the Castle of St. Philip. Cadiz was built by the Phoeni- cians, about 1100 years before the Christian era, and was call.d by tliem Gadir, a name which was changed by tlip Romans intoCiades. During the Frcncli invusion it was besieged without effect for two years by tlie IVIarshal Duke de Bellune. In the days of its commercial splendour, before Spanish America established its called Torre de Vis;ia, or Torre de Tavira. It is one of the most beautiful sights in Europe. Tlie strei'ts are regular, clean, and smoothly paved. The houses are generally surmounted by small towers, or belvideres, and being of a dazzling white on the outside, while the doors, balconies, and window-blinds are painted a brilliant green, they have an air of cleanliness and comfort. The Alameda de Apndaca is a tine promenade, and much frei|UPnted by the fashionable world. There 656 Route 145.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. SPAIN. are two theatres: the principal one can accommodate from 1,300 to 1,400 spectators. Cadiz has two cathedrals, but neither of them calls for any particular remark. The chapel of the convent of Santa Catalina possesses many of Muril- lo's works, among others, that (the marriage of St. Catharine) which he was finishing when he re- ceived a fall that is said to have ultimately caused his death. Cadiz is a most agreeable resi- dence for foreigners, on account of the courtesy of its inhabitants. The ladies are gracious and attrac- tive ; their beauty is proverbial. Route 145. MADRID TO CORDOVA AND MALAGA. 394 miles ; frst class, 288.00 reals ; second class, 221.00 reals, third class, 135.00 reals. (For description of Route to Cordova (276J miles), see pre- ceding Route.) I N leaving Cordova, we pass, on the right, the line to Seville. Cross- ing the Guadalquivir, we pass two unimportant places, and reach Mo Htu/a (3061 miles), population 14,500. It is situated in one of the most beautiful parts of Andalusia. Montilla was the birthplace of Gonzalvo di Cordova, called the Great Captain. Tlie place is celebrated for its exten- sive vineyards. We next reach Aguilar (310 miles), population, 12,200; also renowned for ils wines. Here is an interesting old Moorish castle. At Bobudilla (351^ miles), the line to Granada branches off. Passing through a very romantic and beautiful dis- trict, we presently arrive at Malaga (394 miles), (Hotels: L'Alumeda, Victoria, del Oriente), population, 113,000. The climate is temperate and salubrious. The heat is tempered by sea breezes during the day, and by light winds during the night. No endemic disease pre- vails here, and the annual mor- tality scarcely exceeds one per cent, of the population. It is highly recommended as a winter residence for invalids ; especially those whose lungs are affected. Malaga was built by the Phoe- nicians several centuries before Christ. Itwas first called Malacha, a name derived from the Hebrew Malach (salt), from the large quantity of fish adapted for salting found in the vicinity. The city is divided into two dis- tinct parts : the old quarter, which retains its Moorish peculiarities, narrow and winding streets ; and the new quarter, which is well built. Many of the streets in the latter part are straight and wide, with some elegant looking houses. The Alameda is a superb public walk, and has a central promenade separated from the carriage-ways by rows of almond and other trees. Here are also several pieces of sculpture, and a handsome marble fountain. The other promenades are the Plaza de la Constitucion, the Plaza de Riego, the Plaza de la Puertadel Mar. In the centre of the Plaza de Riego, a monument has been erected to the memory of General Torrijos and his com- patriots, who were massacred at Malaga, in December 1831, by the treacherous Moreno. The English Cemetery is very neatly arranged, and is used as a promenade by the natives. Here is buried the unfortunate Lieute- nant Boyd, who was shot at the SPAIN. Route 145.— MADRID TO CORDOVA. 6sr same time as Torrijos and his com- panions. The principal buildings are the Episcitpul Palace, the Town Hall, the Atarazaiui, a Moorish arsenal, ■with a beautiful portico of wliite marble; and tlie Alcazaba. an ancient fortress, the only remaining portion of which is occupied by the military governor. The Moorish Castle of the Gibalfaro, to wliich access is had by a steep, zigzag staircase, has been converted into a modern fortress. The view from its sum- mit is very fine. The Cathedral of Santa Barba is of modern date, liaving been commenced in 15'J8. It is built in a mixture of stj-les. The faj ade is very beautiful. It consists of two tiers of Roman Corinthian architecture, the columns being of fine marble. In the interior, the roof is supported bj' lofty columns, faced below with fluted, semicir- cular pilasters, of the Corinthian order, these being surmounted by a rich cornice and entablature, and finally rising with a second tier of square pilasters. Many of the altars are fine. The silleria of the choir and the two organs are very remarkable. The chapel of the Eiicaniacwn contains a richly sculptured and elegant retable, also some fine paintings. A magnificent view can be ob- tained by ascending the cathedral tower. Many Roman antiquities have been found in the environs of Malaga ; especially at the village of Cartama, about four leagues to the west of the town, wiiich is said to be the same as the ancient Roman Carthanium. The church of Los Santos Mar- tires is one of the most frequented in the city. It has a high tower, decorated in an originai manner. The interior is very richly adorned, and contains painted wooden sculptures representing the Apos- tles and Saims. JMahiga is celebrated for its fine wines, and for its raisins ; other articles of export are — oil, al- monds, figs, orange-peel, lemons, cochineal, &c. Route 146. MALAGA TO GRANADA. ILTGENCESleaveMa- laga twice daily in winter, and every night in summer, for Granada (68 miles), vtii Loja, whence there is a railway 33j miles to Gra- nada. Time occupied on route 8i hours. At J^OBADri.LA, on the route from Cordova to Alalaga (see pre- ceding Route), a railway branches ofl^'to Antequara, and from the last- named phtce to Loja the railway was intended to be finished early in 1871. Loja (34J miles), (Hotel : Pa- rador de los Angeles). Ghan ADA (Wote/s: de Washing- lon Irving, de los Siete Suelos), population 100,678. This city is built on the lower spurs of the Sierra Nevada ranges, and is divided into four quarters, viz. Granada proper, wliich occu- pies the space at the foot of the Iiill, and is the residence of the wealthier classes: the Alhamhra, situated on a high hill that com- mands the rest of the city, and is called l.a Sierra del Sol (the IVIountain of the Sun), the Allmiciii, which occupies tlie iijiper part of a hill separated from the Sierra del Sol by the valley of the Darro ; and, finally, 658 Route U6.— MALAGA TO GRANADA. SPAIN. the quarter of Antequeruela, also a suburb, inhabited chiefly by artizans, and lying at the foot of the Albaicin. The whole district abounds in beautiful scenery, and the snowy mountains, which form the back- ground of the city, give the air a delightful freshness even in the hottest season. The avenue which leads to the Alhambra — "the pride of Gra- nada, and the boast of Spain " — begins at the highest part of the city, and conducts the traveller through a massive gateway of modern architecture up the steep side of a hill, where it is lined with trees and parterres of aro- matic shrubs. A turn in tlie avenue leads to the famous Tower or Gate oj Justice. In the Plaza de los Algibes, or Square of the Cisterns, is situated the Torre de la Vela, or watch- tower, where the Christian flag was first hoisted by Cardinal Men- doza. This tower contains the bell that announces the hours for the irrigation of the Vega, which operation is regulated to the pre- sent day, according to the rules and forms established by the Moors more than 300 years ago. On one side of the square ex- tends the palace of Charles V., built in the Renaissance style, still remaining unfinished. The name Alhambra denotes "the red house." This palace of the Moorish kings consists of a vast and irregular collection of buildings, built of brick, slightly reddened, the walls of which en- close a plateau 770 yards in length and 200 yards wide. It comprises numerous courts and halls, of which the two principal are the Patio-de - los - Leones (Court of Lions) and the Patio-del-Estanqiie. The Court of Lions is 100 ft. in length and 50 ft. in breadth, en- vironed with a colonnade 7 ft. broad on the sides, and 10 ft. at the end, of light Moorish arches on slender marble columns. '1 his apartment has been pronounced "the pearl of the Alhambra,. solemn as a cloister, and charm- ing as a picture from the Arabian nights." The square is paved with coloured tiles ; the colon- nade with white marble. Above and below is a border of sjnall escutcheons, enamelled blue and gold, with an Arabic motto, signifying " No conqueror but God." The columns that sup- port the roof are of white marble, and very slender. The width of the horse-shoe arches above them is 4 ft. 2 inches for the larger ones, and 3 ft. for the smaller. Above each arch is a large square of arabesques, surrounded with a rim of characters, generally quota- tions from the Koran. Over the pillars is another square of filigree work " like a tissue of Brussels lace." In the centre of the court is the celebrated lion fountain, a basin of oriental alabaster sup- ported upon twelve animals, which rather resemble panthers than lions. This fountain is embel- lished with festoons and Arabic distiches. The Patio del Estanque is an. oblong square with a deep basin of water in the middle, two flights of marble step^ leading to the bottom. Round this court runs a peristyle paved with marble ; the arches bear upon very slight pillars, and the ceiling and walls are incrusted with fretwork in Stucco, so minute and intricate as to almost defy the labours of the most patient draughtsman to follow it. In every division are Arabic sentences, llie ceilings are gilt, or painted, and time has caused no diminution in the freshness of their colours. The SPAIN. Route 146.— MALAGA TO GRANADA. £59 lower part of the walls is mosaic, disjioscd in fantastic knots and festoons. The porch on tiie right hand opens into an octagon vault, under the EmixTor's palace, and forms a perfect whispering-gal- lery. On the south side of the colon- nade is a circular room with a fountain in the middle. The form of the hall, the elegance of its cupola, and the exquisite manner in which the stucco is designed and painted, exceed description. Everything inspires the most pleasing ideas; yet in this retreat It is said Abuabduhih assembled the Abencerrages, and caused their heads to be struck oft' into the fountains, in token whereof red stains on the central marble fountain are still ])ointed out to tlie romantic. Opposite to the Hall of the Abencerrages is the little myrtle garden of Linda- raxa, leading to tlie aj)artments of Charles \., around whicii are frequent inscrij)tions of tlie Empe- ror s favourite motto, Plus Outre. This leads to the Tucador-cle-la- Reinci, or the dressing-room of the Sultana. It is a sninll s(|uare cabinet in an open gallery, into ■which perfumes ascended through Perforated til(>s, from a furnace elow. The Emperor caused this pretty room to be painted with representations of his wars, and a variety of grotesque subjects. There are numerous other apart- ments, including the Ifatl of Am- basmdors, which contains the mottoes of all the kings of Gra- nada, and is magnificently deco- rated; and the Audience .'lull, the interior of which is iidaid with mosaics of various colours, dis- posed in knots, stars, and other figures. The walls are I.t ft. thick. The Alhambra was commenced hy Aben Alhamar, the founder of Granada, in lii48, and its prin- cipal additions and embellish- ments were the works of Youzcf- Aben-el-IIedjadj, the seventh king of Granada, who ascended the throne in 1333. The restorations of the Alham- bra have been admirably carried on by Senor Contrcra.s, since 186y, when he was commissioned by the Ex-Queen Isabella to rejjair the palace. The Senor's studio %vill well repay a visit. The royal country-house of the Genenilije is situated higher on the hill than the palace, from which it is separated by a small ravine and by the lines of the fortifications. Both the Alhambra and the Gene- ralife overhang tlie deep and n.ar- row valley of the Darro, which precipitates itself from the Sierra Nevada and falls into the Genii, not far from the city. The Generalife is of small di- mensions, and its chief attractions are the Hall of the Prmces, the Hall of the Portraits, and the hall whicli was formerly a private mosque, but has been converted into a Christian chapel. A private door on the highest terrace of the Generalife, leads to a sjiot on the summit of the hill, called the Silla del Key ."\loro, or chair of the Moorish king, from which there is a splendid view of the surrounding landscape. The Cathedral is a splendid but in-egular building. It is pro- fusely ornamented with jasper and marble, and is surmounted by a dome supporteil by twelve superb columns, in front of whicli are statues of the twelve Apostles in gilded bronzi\ The adjoining chapel contains some of the best pictures and statues by the Spanish artist Alonzo-Cano, and his pupil Pedro -de-JMena ; and a Holy Family by Murillo; and among its numerous monuments, those of Eerdiuand and Isabella. 660 Route U6.— MALAGA TO GRANADA. SPAIN. The Capilla-de-los-Reyes-Catoli- cos communicates with the cathe- dral, but is under a separate roof. It is of Gothic architecture and remarkable for the boldness of its arch, which supports the roof. It contains the marble tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, whose remains are in the vault x^nder- neath, together with those of their daughtf r Juana and her husband Philip I. Ferdinand's sword is shown, also the royal standards used at the conquest, and a splendid vest- ment worked by Isabella for Car- dinal Mendoza. The Church of San Geronimo, belonging to the ancient convent of the Hieronymites, is a noble piece of architecture. It contains the tomb of the Great Captain, Gonsalvo of Cordova, by whom it was founded. Two kneeling Statues of Gonsalvo and his wife are placed one on each side of the high altar. Among other objects of interest are the palace of the Chancilleria, the Episcopal Palace, and the Al- caiseria, the latter an ancient Moorish bazaar, containing about 200 shops, and still applied to its original use ; a spacious theatre built by General Sebastiani during the occupation of the city by the French army, and an amphi- theatre. The principal Plazas or squares, are the Plaza de la Cnnstitucion, 400 ft. by 200 ft., embellished by an elegant jasper fountain; the Plaza Mayor, and the Plaza del Triunjo, the last named being the scene of the final victory gained by the Christians over the Moors, to commemorate which, a large monument of white marble stands in the centre of the square. Op- posite to the fa^adeof the theatre, a monument has been raised to the memory of the heroic lady Dona Mariana Pineda, and the other martyrs of liberty in 1831. The Vega or plain, upon which the city is situated, contains within its circuit not less than fifty-two towns ; and in its centre appears the Soto de Roma, a tract belonging to the Duke of VVellington, which was granted to the first Duke and his successors in acknowledgment of his services, at the conclusion of the Peninsular War. Route 147. VALENCIA TO BARCELO- NA, BY TARRAGONA. To Tarragona, 172 miles; 1st class, 108 r. 90 s. ; 2nd, 69 r. 58 s. ; 3rd, 51 r. 42 s. U R V I E D R O (18 miles), population 7,000, stands on the site of tlie ancient Ro- man town of Saguntum, of wliich many remains have been disco- vered. Crossing the Palencia we skirt a mountain range, beneath which stretches a plain covered with cornfields, oliveyards, and vineyards. Nules (32 miles), a fortified town of 4,100 inhabitants, is celebrated for its mineral waters. Passing several other places we reach Castellon de la Plana (43 miles), (Hotel: de Espana), population 20,500. This is the birthplace of the celebrated painter, Francisco Ribalta. Some of his works are to be seen in the church of La Sangre, and in the Casa Capitular, in the Plaza de la Constitucion. The Torre de las Campanas is an octagonal belfry, 265 ft. high. There are some good paintings in the several convents. Benicarlo (88 miles), population 6,200, is a fortified town, with a small port. The SPAIN. Route UT.— VALENCIA TO BARCELONA. CGI district is rich in viiipyards, and the chief business of tho phicn is the production of a slrouiif red wine, wliicli is imported to l$our- deaux, and used to streiii;tlieu the poorer kinds of chiret for tlie Enj^lish and American markets. Viiiaroz (914 miles), population 10,000, is famous for its fisheries of sturEjeon and lampreys. Ton- TosA (120 miles), population 22,000, is a fortified town, situ- ated on the Ehro. The Calhedial is ornamented with fine marbles and bas-reliefs. Tlie chapel of the Santa Cinta contains the <:^irdle said to have been broufjht down from heaven in 1178 by the \'irgin herself, and delivered to a priest. It is said that it works miracles in the cure of diseases. The Cusile is in ruins. The view from the battlements is very line. Passinf^ some unimportant places, we reaclj TAnnAGONA (172 miles), (Ho- tel: Euippa), population 21,000. This was a great c'ty in the time of the Romans. It stands on a hill above the Francoli, and is surrounded by a spacious and richly-cultivated plain. The hand- some Gothic Cathedralwas erected in the eleventh century. Its fajade is adorned with numnrous reliefs and statues. The interior is plain but imposing. There are some beautiful painted windows; the Silleria of tlie choir is finely carved in wood ; the cloisters are worth a visit. The I'laza de la Comlitu- cion occupies the site of a Koman circus. Amongst other remains are those of the Capitol, the forum, the palace of Augustus, and the aqueduct. From Tarragona to Barcelona, 63^ miles ; 1ft class, 44 r. 56 c. ; '2nd, 33 r. 13 c. ; 3rd, 21 r. 24 c. Aear Tone de Hurra (8 miles) we observe a very fine Roman tri- umphal arch. Passing through a beautiful country we reach JNIak- TORF.1.L (45i miles), population 5,000. The chief object of interest here is the fine Koman bridge calli'd the I'lieiiledel Diabulo, witlt a triumi>iial arch at one end. 11 A HCKi.ON A {63fj mi^^s), (Ho- tels: del Oriente,de las Cuutro Na- cioiies, I'eninsntures), population 225,000. This, the most impor- tant manufacturing city in Spain, is beautifully situated on the iSIe- diterranean, in the midst of a fertile district. It is walji'd, and has a citadel, which, however, is etlectually commanded by tlie for- tress of J\I(intjoi on the south-west. It is divided into two parts by the Ramhla (river-bed), which is a beautiful promenade. The streets of the old town are narrow and ill paved, but those of the new town are more spacious and regular, while most of the houses are of hewn stone and of an imposing appearance. The squares are nu- merous, but, for the most part, small and irreg-ular. The laigest of them, the I'taza del Falacio, is very spacious and elegant, having on one side the governor's palace, on tiie opposite side the exchange, on the south the sea-gate and the custom-house, and on the north a row of good houses. In the centre stands a beautiful marble fountain. The houses are fourand five stories high, having large windows with balconies. iNIany of them have tlieir fronts adorned with paint- ings in fresco ; and several of tiie public buildings are remarkable, both on account of their e-xti-rnal beauty and the curiosities which they contain. The Cathedral. which is about 160 ft. long and 62 ft. broad, has a magnificent a])pearance. Twelve Gothic pil- lars sej)arate the nave and aisles ; and a large octagonal dome, of Gothic architecture, with eight galleries, stands in the middle of the space between the choir and 66'i Route U7.— VALENCIA TO BARCELONA. SPAIN. tlie great door. The sanctuary, which stands over a subterranean chapel containing the relics of St. Eulalia, is formed by 10 pil- lars arranged in a semicircle, and enclosing the great altar, which is in the Gothic style, and of exqui- site workmanship. The convent of La Merci has a large church, with a Doric portal, and a fine front composed of two stories of Corintliian and Ionic architecture. Its cloister, which is 60 ft. square, is beautifully executed ; and the portico, of 16 arcades, which sur- rounds it, is supported by 20 Doric columns of marble. Above the portico is a spacious gallery, which has, on the outside, 32 arcades, on Ionic columns of marble, ornamented witli a balus- trade of grey marble. The con- vent of San Franchro has a large and handsome Gothic church, and a cloister adorned with paintings. The parish church of Santa Maria del Mar, built in the fifteenth cen- tury, is tlie finest in Barcelona. The principal altar is a rich assemblage of wliite, black, and mixed marble. Tlie Palacio de la Disputacion, now the Audiencia, where the States of Catalonia assembled, is one of the hand- somest edifices in the city, and contains the archives and charters of the crown of Aragon. The palace of the Counts of Barcelona and the Kings of Aragon, distin- guished by the noble simplicity of its architecture, is now occupied by a nunnery and an academy of medicine. The Exchange is a rectangular building, 230 ft. long and 77 ft. wide, and has a noble and majestic appearance. Ofother modern buildings, the principal are the custom-house, the theatre, and the prison. Barcelona possesses numerous charitable and benevolent institu- tions, and among literary insti- tutions may be mentioned four public libraries and two museums, an Academu of Belles Lettres and a Royal Academy of Arts and Sciences. Barcelona is said to have been founded by the Carthaginians, who called it Barcino, after their general Hamilcar Barca. Route 148. BARCELONA TO MADRID. 441^ miles ; 1st class, 311 ?•. 40 c. ; 2nd, 237 r. 23 c.; 3rd, 160 r. 5 c. /ir^ rrofHE first place of import- Jjfj) (^ ance atter leavmg liar- ?n^ kpH celona is SabudeU (13| fc^-«» miles), a town of 15,000 inliabitants, styled the " iVIan- chester of Catalonia," from its extensive manufictures of cotton and wool. Tarrasa (20 miles) has numerous cloth manufactories. Manresa (40 miles), population 13,340, has manufactures of cloth and cotton goods, and several dis- tilleries. Passing several places of no importance, we reach Le- RiDA (113} miles), (Hotel: San Luis), population 20,000, situated on the Segre. The Old Cathedral, dating from the 13tli century, is a magnificent specimen of Byzan- tine Gothic architecture. It was converted into a fortress by the French in 1707, and it has not since been used for religious ser- vices. The New Cathedral, built in the reign of Charles III. is a Corinthian structure. The church of San Lorenzo has some good tracery. Tlie church of San Juan is a fine building. Passing several places of no note we reach Saha- GossA (228 miles). For a descrip- tion of this city, and of the re- mainder of the journey to Madrid, see Route 139. spAiv. Route 149.— BARCELONA TO GERONA. 653 Route 149. BARCELONA TO GERONA. 65 J miles; 1st class, 44 r; 2nd, 35 r. '20c.; Sid, 24 r. 20c. ?^ c^i^IIP^RE are two routos, -J^' '^'^ one by the coast, tlie f^j other inland. J5y the "^^ former we pass Mutaro (17 J miles), a busy town of 18,000 inhabitants, in the neiglihourliood of winch are some much-fre- quented mineral sprinLjs ; and Arenvx (23 miles), a town of 4,500 inhabitants, possessing dockyards, manufactories of lace, linen and soap, and a training school for the merchant service ; in the neighbourliood of tliis place also there are mineral springs which are held in great estimation. By the latter route the most important place passed is Granollers (18 miles), population 4,500, a ma- nufacturing town. The coast- route is much the more agreeable of tlie two. Gerona (651 miles), (Hotels: Casa de Fosta, de la E>tn'tta), po- pulation 15,200. This is an ancient iMoorisli city. The Cathedral was originally founded by Charle- magne in 786, and subsequently rebuilt in the lltli century. Con- siderable additions were made in the 14th, 15th, 16th and 17tii cen- turies. The altar and rotable are of silver, and there are some paintings and enamels. The nave is constructed with a single vault, its width is 71 feet. The Cliurch of San Pedro and the Collegiate Cliurch of San Feliu are interesting structures. The railway to Perpipian is not yet wiiolly completed. Trains run as far as Port Vendres, 18 miles southofPerpignan. Steamers from Barcelona touch at Port Vendres. 'J'lie distance from Ge- rona to Perpignan is 48} miles, fare 64 reals. Going by diligence we pass the strongly fortified town of Ficuehas (20^ miles), popula- tion 7,500. The Castillo de Saji Fernando, a fortress of great strength, contains magazines, and barracks for 15,000 men and 500 horses. We pass the frontier of France at Perthus (27^ miles). The country is beautiful, and the mountains are covered with cork- trees as we approach Boulou (41 miles). On the right is the fort of Bellegarde, built under Louis XIV. Crossing the Canterane we presently reacJi PEnpioNAN(48Jmiles),(//ofe/s: Grand, de l' Europe, des Ambassa- deurs, Petit Paris), population 26,000. It is situated on the right bank of the Tot, in the plain of Roussillon. The vine- yards are numerous, and here the celebrated wine of the name is pro- duced. Tliere is a magnificent view from tlie Citadel. The Ca- thedral was founded in 13'20. It possesses no features of interest. Tiie remains of an older cathedral, called St. Jean le Vieui, are close by. The Loge, or Bourse (ia Spanish Lonja), has a curious jNloorish and Gothic cloister, and a highly decorated facade. The Promenades in the environs are delightful. 66t Route i50.— MADRID TO BADAJOS. SPAIN. Route 150. MADRID TO BADAJOS AND LISBON. To Badajos, 374 miles : 1st class, 362 r. 20 c. ; 2nd, 200 r. 75 c. For description of the route as far as Manzanares (1~3| miles), see Route 144. E proceed for some dis- tance tbrougli places of no especial interest, and reach Ciudad Real (164^ miles). (Hotel: Miracielo), population, 11,000. Here are a handsome church, a large hos- pital, and a curious Moorish gate- way, called Puerta de Toledo. After leaving Ciudad Real we pass several places of no interest, gradually approaching a region abounding in quicksilver mines. Almaden (236 milts), popula- tion 9,200. All the importance of this town consists in its quick- silver mines, the richest and most celebrated of the kind in Europe. Belalcazar (249 miles), popu- lation 3,000. A very ancient for- tified town. Its celebrated for- tress was formerly one of the grandest in Spain. There are still some interesting remains. Castuera (277^ miles), popu- lation 6,200. Chief town of a vast territory which formed, in the ancient province of Estrema- dura a district called La Serena, which was defended by a line of fortresses, named the seven forts of La Serena. Magacela (295 miles). One of the seven fortified places of La Serena. The ruins of the fort occupy the summit of a hill rising above the town. Merida (3375 miles), (Hotels: de Leon, de Badajos), population 6,000. This place is interesting from the numerous and interest- ing Roman remains which are to be seen in the town and its neigh- bourhood, and which testify to its ancient magnificence. Of these the most important are, the splen- did Bridge of 81 arches, which crosses the Guadiana; another bridge across the Albar Bregas ; the remains of a magnificent Aqueduct; the Triumphal Arch o{ Trajan, which the inhabitants have designated that of St. James ; the ruins of the Temple of Mars, which was a splendid edifice in white marble ; the Temple of Diana, in the colonnade of which a grandee of Spain has built a palace ; the Circus Maximus ; a Theatre; also considerable vestiges of ramparts, towers, and monu- mental gates. Passing, among other places, Talavera, the scene of one of the principal battles during the Peninsular War, we reach Badajos (374^ miles), (Hotels : Las tres Naciones, Los CabaUeros), population 23,000. The town is entered by the beautiful bridge of Guadiana, and by the gate of La Trinidad. Tiie bridge is formed of 28 arches, and was built in 1596. Badajos is the capital of a pro- vince, and residence of the cap- tain-general of Eslremadura. The houses are well built, generally elegant, the painted fa fades giving them an agreeable aspect. The Plaza de la Constitucion, also named the Campo de San Juan, is a vast square, on which is built the Cathedral, tlie theatre, the cafes, the town-hall, and, in the middle is a promenade or Salon, planted with trees, a place of fashionable resort. The Cathedral is a solid edifice, SPAIN. Route 150.— MADRID TO B ADA JOS. 665 havin:^ tlie nppenrance of a for- tress ratlitr than of ;i cliurcli, con- structed with tlie view of aftbrdincf an asyluiii lo the inhabitants, in case of Mtrack. it contains two fine statues of St. John the Bajjtist and Notre Dame de la Concep- tion, a rich tomb of the arclihisiiop lyjiirin (lei Kodi'zno, a choir witii a Silleriu artistically sculptured. liadiijos is the native place of the Celebrated navigator, Vasco Nunez of Balboa, and of the painter Morales, surnamed the JJivine. The latt.-r died in a state of poverty, in 158{J, 75 years of age. Tiiis place is famous in the annals of Kngland for the heroisnx of the British troops at the siege in April, 1812. From Bailajos to Lisbon, 176 miles ; 1st class, 5,340 reis ; 2nd, 4,150 reis. (180 reis equal lOd. or 20 cents.) Fhontera (379^ miles). The Spanish frontier is here crossed, and passports and luggage are examined. Ei.vAS (10 miles), population, 12,200. This is the strongest city of the kingdom. Forts Lippe and Santa-Luc'ui are said to be imi)regnable. Jiere is a fine Roman acjueduct, constructed of three tiers of arches, and present- ing a picturesc|ue appearance. The Gothic cathedral contains some fine stained glass. Portidef^re (41 miles), popula- tion, 6,400. The see of a bishop. Here are several cloth manufac- tories, and in the en\nrons some considerable marble quarries. Crcito (45 miles). This place was formerly the head-quarters of the order of the Knights of Malta, the ruins of whose castle still exist. I'assing some other places of no note, we reach A II n AMI s ( 92 miles ), a strongly fortified town. It played an im- portant part in Napoleon's ex- pedition against Portugal in 1809-10. Santauksi (128 miles), (Hotel: de i-V/iciu), population 8,000. It contains some curious remains of Moorish architecture of the Middle Ages. We pass several places which deserve no particular men- tion before reaching Lisbon- (Hotels : Braganza, Grand Hotel Central, Durand), population, 340,000. LisnoN, in Portuguese Lisboa, is the capital of Portug:il, and one of the finest cities in Kurope. It is admirably situated on the right bank of the Tagus, and, as seen from the river, presents a magni- ficent appearance. The city is divided into four quarters or buirros ; the old city, Alfama, which escaped the earth- quake; Rocio, the modern city; Alcantara, and Bairro Alto. These districts are divided into parishes. The I'raca do Cominercio is the most remarkable of the numerous squares of Lisbon ; it is also called tlie Esplanade of the Palace ( Ter- reiro do I'afo), and the English liave named it Black Horse Square, after the e(|uestrian statue of Joseph I. in the centre. The most important public edifices are in this square, including the Cus- tom-house, Bourse, India House, &i.C. The streets — Do Ouro, Da Prata, and Augusta, which abut on this square, are large, straight, and formed of tine uniform houses. 1 he oldest promenade of the capital is the Fast^eio Fitblico. It is planted with fine trees, and ornamented with marble basins of flowers. Near this place is the principal market, called Figiiiera. The Passeio San Pedro d'Alcan- tara, and Passeio da Estrella are more agreeable promenades tlian the Pnss.'io Publico, and command fine views. 666 Route 150.— MADRID TO BADAJOS. SPAIN. The Cathedral is a mixture of old Gothic and modern architec- ture. The facade and tlie apsis, left standing after the eartliquake of 1755, make one regret that the other portions of tlie edifice have not been rebuilt in the same style. The interior is very ornamental. The church of San Roque con- tains riches and Vi'orks of art in profusion. Each chapel possesses sufficient to enrich a large church. The Chapel Royal of St. John the Baptist is full of pictures, is paved with mosaics, and the altar IS of amethyst, lapis lazuli and massive silver, with columns in cornelian and lapis lazuli. The Church of the Sacred Heart, near the Convent of the Carme- lites of Estrella, is a splendid con- struction in white marble. It is a reduced copy of St. Peter's at Rome. In the choir is the monu- ment of the founder, the Queen Dofia Maria I. The royal family occupy the two palaces of Necessidailes and Ajuda. '1 he former was com- menced in 1473, by Don Juan V. It is composed of the palace and the convent which that prince built close by. This residence has been since greatly embellished . It is surrounded by splendid gar- dens, and affords a fine view of the roadstead. It contains many interesting worlis of art. The Palace of Ajuda, which tlie King and Queen mostly inhabit, is built on the summit of a hill. It was constructed by King Juan VI., and is an imposing edifice. The style of architecture being pure Greek, contrasts strangely with that of the Moorish and Gothic edifices by which it is surrounded. The view from this palace embraces the Tagus, the bay, and the whole panorama of Lishon. There is a fine aqueduct, by which the city is supplied with water, worthy of comparison, for its beauty and solidity, with the most remarkable works of the Romans. It took 19 years to con- struct, from 1713 to 1732. The principal establishments are : the Academy of the Fine Arts, the Royal Conservatory of Music, a School of Surgery, a Folytcchnic School, Academy of Sciences, School of Naval Architecture, and the National Library, containing 150,000 volumes and 10,000 manuscripts. Amongst the bene- volent establishments are the Santa Casa da Misericordia, for orphans and foundlings; the Casa Fia, an orphan school established in the convent of Eeleni ; and in- stitutions for the deaf and dumb, and the blind. The theatres are six in number : San Carlos, for Italian Opera ; the theatre of Dona Maria, devoted to the legitimate drama ; that of Don Fernando, where the plays are performed sometimes in French, and sometimes in Portuguese ; and the Gymnase, a vaudeville theatre. The small theatres are those of Ruados Condes and Salitre. There are also two circuses, for eques- trian exercises and bull-fights. The foundation of Lisbon is said to date from the time of Ulysses. It was occupied by the Romans, but without acquiring any importance. On the 1st November, 1755, the terrible earthquake took place, which left a portion of this beau- tiful capital a mass of ruins, piled upon thousands of dead bodies. An extensive fire completed the disaster ; it lasted three days, and destroyed almost all that the earthquake had spared. The French army entered Lisbon in 1807. In 1808 the Duke of Wel- lington retook it from the French. CiNTRA. I'ifteen miles north- SPAIN. Route 150.— MADRID TO liAD.UOS. 667 west of Lisbon, is tlie pictu- iTsqut'Iv sitUMti d (own of Ciiitrii. It stands on tlie declivity of the Sierra do C intra, and is sur- rounded with fine country resi- to evacuate Portugal, was con- cludi'd here. ],ord Byron wrote ciUliusiastically of tlie beauties of Cintra which he called "a new Kden." T.isnoN. dences. The ancient royal palace, once occupied by the INIoorish Kinf^s, is a stiannje mixtui-e of Moorish and Christian architec- ture. A charmini:^ view of tlw. town and of the sea may be had from the toj) of a hill crowned with the ruins of a INIoorish Castle. On another hill top stands La Penna, once a convent, now a royal residence. In the neiji^h- bourliood is a convent called the Cork Convent, tlie cells beino^ cut in the rock and lined with cork to prevent dampness. The celebrated convention be- tween the French and English in 1808, by which the former agreed IIOUTE 151. LISBQX TO OPORTO. 207 miles ; 1st class, 6,000 reis. ; 2nd, 4,670 reis (10 hours). "^nOMAR (9 miles), po- pulation 4,000. With formerly _„, quarters of the Order of Christ, and said to be the most remark- able in Portugal after that of Ba- talha. 668 Route 151.— LISBON TO OPORTO. SPAIN. Pombal (105 miles), population 4,500. Some traces of Saracenic architecture, an ancient chapel of the Templars, ruins of an old Roman castle, restored in the Moorish style. The town is sur- rounded with fertile and well- cultivated lands. Coimbia (135 miles), popula- tion 16,000. The third city of the kingdom, chief place of the province of Bas Beira, and see of a bishop. It is built in the form of an amphitheatre, on a hill which overlooks the beautiful valley of the Mondego. The principal places worth visiting- are the old Cathedral, a true model of the Moorish style ; the new Cathedral, the church of iSY. Croix, which contains the tombs of the two first Portuguese kings, Alphonse and Sancho ; the con- vent o{ Santa Clara and the monas- tery of St. Francis, and the fine aqueduct which supplies the city. The University of Coimbra, so celebrated in former times, still retains some of its importance. It is governed by a rector, nominated by the king. It comprises five faculties : theology, law, medi- cine, mathematics, and philosophy. The students number 800 to 900. The Palace of the University is remarkable for its extent, if not for its magnificence. In one im- mense court are united the library, the museum, the observatory, halls of science, and examination halls. The museum of natural history, chemistry, and natural philosophy is one of the most complete in ex- istence. The botanical garden, charming- ly situated, serves for a public pro- menade, beyond the garden is a fine promenade commanding a splendid view. The Quinta das Lagrimas, where Inez de Castro dwelt, and was assassinated, may be visited. Passing Aveiro (171 miles) and Ovar (184 miles) we reach Oporto, or Porto, {Hotel : Lis- boneiise,) (207 miles,) population 89,321. This was the capital of Portugal until 1149. It has an academy, six hospitals, four col- leges, surgical and naval schools, schools of commerce and philoso- pliy ; a public library, and a pic- ture gallery. The city is admirably situated on the declivity of two hills, and extends along the right bank of the Douro, as far as the mouth of that river. Oporto is divided into three quarters. One of these ancient parishes, Sam Martinho de Cedo- feita, was built in 559, and is chiefly remarkable for its legendary asso- ciations. On the other side of the bridge are the suburbs of Villanova da Gaya, where there are immense wine depots. The old city is very irregular, but the new quarters contain well built, spacious houses. The prin- cipal edifices are — the Cathedral ; the Church Dos Clerigos ; that of Our Ladii of La pa, wherein is de- posited the heart of the Emperor Don Pedro ; the bishop's palace ; the town-hall : the theatre, very elegant ; the recently constructed Exchange ; the barracks of St. Ovide, with accommodation for 3,000 soldiers. The Royal Hos- pital is the most magnificent con- struction of the kind in the king- dom. TJie magnificent gardens be- longing to Count Rezende are open to the public on Sundays. Foreigners are admitted to the Assemblea Portuense and the Fe- itoria Ingleze, first-class clubs, and received with cordial hospi- tality. The English quarter of the city is very animated. The English SPAIN. Route 151.— LISBON TO OPORTO. 669 ships and counting-houses, besides Marshal Soult took the city by the extensive wine depots, serve assault, and it was sacked and to indicate the preponderance pillai^cd. On tlio 12th of .May fol- whicli Englantl poss(\ssi'S over lowini,', the Duke of \Vellin£,'ton other foreig7i nations, at Oporto. surprised the French and took the On the 'i'9th of March, 1809, city from them. EUSSIA. ROUTES. Route Page 152. WiERZBOLOw (Russian FRONTiEn) TO St. Petersbuhg, bv WiLNA 671 153. St. Petersburg to Moscow .... 678 HE empire of Russia embraces more than half the area of the European continent, and comprehends a still vaster region bejond the limits of Europe. In the direction of north and south, European Russia extends over more than 1,700 miles, and its dimensions from east to west are nearly the same. Russia, with the exception of the provinces that border on the Caucasus, is nearly a level region. The slight elevations and gentle slopes of the Ural scarcely inter- rupt the continuity of the vast plain that stretches over nearly half tlie circumference of the globe. This immense plain is divisible into three belts — a southern, consisting of steppe or prairie land ; a middle belt, of alternate forest, morass, and arable land ; and a northern region, which embraces only the ice-covered plains that border the Frozen Ocean. The Ural Mountains constitute a long and narrow mountain sys- tem, extending in the direction of the meridian through nearly 18 degrees of latitude. I'he main crest of the Ural has an average height of from 2,000 to 2,500 ft. Route Pitge 154. Moscow TO NijNi Nov- gorod 682 155. St. Petersburg to Berlin, by«Warsaw 683 156. St. Petersburg to Stockholm, by Sea . 684 Mount Yaman, which appears to be tlie highest measured summit, is 5,400 ft. in height ; but in the more northerly portion of the mountains, the height does not exceed 3,000 ft., and sinks to less than 1,400 ft. in the latitude of 57 degrees. On the south-east of the great plain is the lofty region of the Caucasus, crossed by the Pass of Derbend, and the so-called Mili- tary Georgian Road. The districts in the south-west of Russia, between the Vistula and the Pruth, are covered by hilly ranges from the Carpathian mountains, which in Poland are known as tlie Sandomir Moun- tains. The rivers of European Russia are among the largest that belong to this division of the globe. The entire course of the Volga is within the limits of Russia ; the Ural forms part of the border-line between Europe and Asia ; tlie Pruth, which joins the Danube, forms the boundary line of the empire on the side of Turkey ; the middle and lower course of the Dniester is through Russian territory, and the Don and the Dnieper are wholly Russian. Upon the side of tlie Baltic^ RUSSIA. 671 Russia is watered by the Niemen, the Dvina, and tlie Neva, upon the last of which the capital is situated ; while to the northward the plain is watered by the nor- thern Dvina, the Mezen, and the Petchora. The natural wealth of Russia is considerable, both in the mineral and vegetable kingdoms. The Ural Mountains, which contain calmest all the mineral riches of the country, are the principal seat of mining and metallurgic in- dustry. Tiiey produce gold, platinum, copper, and iron of ex- cellent quality. Gold, silver, cop- per, plumbago, &'c., are also ob- tained from the Altai and Nerch- insk mines in Siberia. The general absence of coal in Russia is in some measure com- pensated for by the immense forests which are found in most parts of the country. Russia is throughout charac- terized by greater extremes of heat and cold than belong to similar latitudes of western Europe. In general, however, the climates of all the regions are not unfavourable to health, and except in particular districts, where the insalubrity can easily be traced to local causes, disease is by no means prevalent. The total area of the provinces in Europe is 1,99'2,574 English square miles ; and the grand total of Russian possessions in 1870 amounted to 7,210,374 English square miles. According to a census taken in 1861, the popula- tion of Russia in Europe amounted to 61,061,801; of Finland to 1,798,909 ; and of Poland to 5,336,210 souls, giving a total, for the European portion of tlie empire, of 68,196,920 inhabitints. jNIonev. — 100 copecks (1 silver rouble), equal 3s. 2d., or say 78 cents. Route 152. WIERZBOLOW (RUSSIAN FRONTIER) TO ST. PE- TERSBURG, BY WILNA. 556 miles; 1st class, 25 r. 17c.; '2nd, 13 r. 88 c. ; 3rd, 10 r. 49 c. lERZBOLOW is only three quarters of a mile from Eydtkuhnen (see Route 104). It is the first station on the Russian frontier, and passports and luggage are ex- amined there. (There is a buffet at the station.) After leaving W'ierzbolow we pass four stations of no importance, and reach KowNO (53 miles), population 25,000, situated at the confluence of the \'ilia and Niemen. It was near this place that the French army crossed the Niemen in 1812, on tlio march to Moscow. In the market-place is a monument bear- ing the following inscription: — "in 1812 Russia was invaded by an army of 700,000 men I only 70,000 re-crossed tlie frontier." The environs are hilly and clothed with wood. (There is a buffet here.) At Landuarow (106J miles) the line from Warsaw f\ills in. Wii.NA (118 miles), (Hotel: de rEarnpe), (Bujf'el), is a town of 70,000 inhabitants, the ancient capital of Lithuania. It is situ- ated in a valley flanked by ranges of hills, on the banks of the \'iiia, and above it rise the ruins of an old castle, with a singular octa- gonal tower of red brick. This town was totally destro\-ed by fire in 1715. It contains some hand- some churches. The University, founded in 1803, was suppressed in 1832. 672 Route 152.— WIERZBOLOW TO ST. PETERSBURG. Swentsiany (166J miles\ (Buf- fet), is a town of 4,000 inhabitants, on the Western L)\vina. Duna- burg (227^ miles), (Bujffet), popu- lation 27,500, is situated in the province of Witebsk ; it possesses a fortress of the first class, con- structed in 1825. A branch goes to Witebsk and Riga. There is a huffet at Antonopol (268.| miles), at Korsovka (305|^ miles), and at Osiro/(348i miles). PsKOFF (392 miles), (Buffet)is a very ancient town of 16,000 in- habitants, situated on the Vielika near its entrance into the lake of Pskoff, whicli forms the south- ern extremity of Lake Peipus. This lake, subject to frequent storms, is about 40 miles long, and about 15 miles broad at the ■widest point. The A')c?n/w, built in 1322, contains the Cathedral, founded in 1682, and since re- Stored ; this church is of the Russo-Byzantine style, and pos- sesses numerous ancient and cu- rious statues of Stiints. Tliere are buffets at Belaia (428-J miles), Liiga (461f miles), and Diven- skaia (493f miles). Passports are demanded at Gatciiina (519 miles). Here is the palace pre- sented by Catharine II. to Prmce Orloff, and greatly enlarged and beautified by his successors. It is a fine building, flanked by towers. The gardens and park are extensive and beautifully laid out. About 14 miles before reach- ing St. Petersburg we pass Tsar- skoe-Seln, near wliich is one of the Imperial palaces, surrounded by woods. The Empresses Klizabeth and Catharine spent large sums on its embellisliment. The fa- cade, upwards of 1,200 ft. long, is richly adorned. Formerly the statues, the pedestals, tlie capitals of the columns and all the mould- ings were gilded. They suffered from the severity of many succes- sive winters, and the remainder of the gold was valued, by the contractors who tendered for it, at 2,000,000 roubles (±30,000). The apartments are profusely em- bellished ; they comprise the hall of lapis-lazuli, tliat of ivory and motlier-of-peail, that of amber; the beautiful Chinese apartment, with walls inlaid and adorned with lacquer ; and the magnificent pic- ture gallery. These apartments are reached by staircases of mar- ble. The chapel is splendidly decorated, and covered with gild- ings. The Arsenal, a Gothic edifice, contains a collection of arms, costumes, and curiosities of every kind, among which may be particularly mentioned a saddle, enriched with gold and diamonds, presented to tlie Emperor Nicho- las by the Sultan after the peace of Adrianople. The Alexander palace, adjoining the arsenal, has its fajade adorned with a fine colonnade. The palace gardens are magnificent, and admirably kept. About 500 persons are employed constantly in removing weeds and fallen leaves, and this part of the establishment alone involves a cost of 100,000 roubles annually. Among other objects of interest to be seen in these gar- dens are — the Temple, containing a number of valuable statues ; the Swiss Cottage, where the Swiss and Tyrolese cows are kept ; the Chinese Village; the Turkish hiosk, with lianging gardens; and the miniature Admiralty-buildiii gs, with a miniature fleet stationed on an artificial lake. The gardens are open to the public. St. Petersburg (556 miles), (Hotels: de Russie (K lee's), d'An- GLETERRE* de Fruure, Dermuith, Grand), population 667,000. This is the modern capital oftlie Russian Empire, and owes its creation en- tirely to the genius of Peter the ST PETER! far "1- IL ■■'5 I ^LCJIViUaiUlUitlJii JCp IJL_-- ... , ;] 1 ^.^^rlin.t II Appleton's Europ^'an Guide Book. URGH / ^ni ill "9 i< Tl ^*? J '^ oM^ i •- * — .^ . — * :' i* 1 1- Malby & Sons. London. Route 152.— WIERZ BO LOW TO ST. PETERSBURG. 673 Great, by whom it was founded, in the year 17()'J, amidst themarslics througli which the River Neva discharges its waters into the sea. The Aeva divides into several arms, and it is upon the islands enclosed by tliese channels that the greater part of the city is built. The Admiralty- quarter, liowever, which contains the principal public buildiu>cs, is on the main- land, and lies along- the southern bank of the Great iVeva. St. I'etersburg is a well-built, and maj;iiiticent city. In the number and vast size of its ])ublic edifices, it willcomjiare favourably with an}' city in Kurope. The city is about six miles long by five miles wide, and is divided into 13 quarters, of which the Aumi- EALTv is the chief; from this point three great streets diverge : tlie { osnesseiiskti Prospect, leading to the Zagorodnoi Canal ; the GornkhovGia, terminating in the Champ de Mars ; and the Xevski^ Prospect, a beautiful promenade, bordered with handsome sIiojjs, and abounding with churches, palaces, and other jjublic build- ings, amongst others the Kazan Cathedral, the Great Bazaar and the Alexander Theatre. It ter- minates at the rich convent of St. Alexander Xevsky. The Catiiedrai, OF Our Ladv OF Kazan, situated in the iVevsky Prosi)ect, was commenced under the Kmperor Alexander I., and consecrated in 1811, ;is the metro- folitan church of St. Petersburg, t derives its name from an image of the Virgin, brought from Kazan to jNIoscow in 1579, and thence to St. Petersburg in 1821. This church is a copy of St. Peters at Rome. It is adorned by a semi- circular colonnade of the Corin- thian order, consisting of .56 mo- nolithic columns of Finland granite, upwards of 30 ft. high. In the centre rises tlie dome. Tlie interior is magnificent. The ikonoslas, before the sanctuary, is of chased silver, the gift of the Cossacks who served in the wars of 1813-14. It is decorated by four jasper columns, and an aureole of silver, having the name of God inscribed in precious stones. The images, before which lam|)S are always kept burning, are covered with diamonds, eme- ralds, and sapphires. A number of arms and standards, including someeagles taken from the French, are ranged along the walls, and give a martial appearance to the building ; tiie keys of several cap- tured fortresses are hung round the pillars. In front of the Cathe- dral are bronze statues of Barclay de Tolly, and Kutusoff. Tlie Fortress and Cathforai, of St. Peter and St. Paul — the tall gildedspireofwhicli is visible from a long distance, the cross on its summit being su])j)orted by the co- lossal tigureof an angel — was com- menced by Peter the Great, and com])leted by the Empress Anne. It is plain externally, but the in- terior is imjiosing. Many hun- dreds of flags — Persian, Turkish, Swedish, French, and Prussian — and the keys of Paris and other European cities, are suspended along the walls. In the vaults are the remains of all the sove- reigns of Russia since the foun- dation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II., who was interred at Moscow. The fortress is dt>- fended by 100 guns, and a garri- son of 3,000 men. It is used as a state prison, and also contains the Imperial .Mint. I he Cathedra L of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Petersburg, oc- cu])ies the site of a wooden church , built in 1710 by Peter the Great. It wiis erected in 1819. The foundations rest upon piles, and u u 674 Route 15^.— WIERZBOLOW TO ST. PETERSBURG. their construction cost about £200,000. The materials em- ployed on the exterior are red granite, marble, and bronze ; the interior is simple and almost un- adorned, but striking from its magnificent proportions. The edifice is in the form of a Greek cross. Four flights of steps, each step composed of a single block of granite, lead to four principal entrances, each of which has a magnificent peristyle. The pillars of these peristyles are formed of monoliths of red Finland gTanite ; the bases and capitals are of chased bronze ; the height of the pillars is 60 ft. Above the peristyles, and at an elevation of twice their height, rises the dome, supported on 20 pillars of polished granite, overlaid with copper plated with gold, and surmounted by a lantern, a miniature of the build- ing ; above this is a large gold cross. Four smaller domes, on the plan of the principal one, complete the structure. Immense columns of white marble, encrusted with malachite, porphj'ry, and lapis lazuli, support the dome in the interior ; the walls and floor are inlaid with mosaics ; the columns of the ikonostas are of rock crystal. From the gallery of the dome, and especially from the lantern, ■we have a magnificent view of the whole city, and the surround- ing district, extending as far as Cronstadt. The Monastery of St. Alex- ander Nevsky is one of the largest and most celebrated in Russia. It was founded by Peter the Great, in honour of the Prince Alexander, surnamed Nevsky, who vanquished the Swedes and Livonians, and was canonized by the Russian church. This monas- tery, situated at the extremity of the Nevsky Prospect, occupies a large space, surrounded by walls, containing churches, gardens, an ecclesiastical academy, &c. The principal church of the monastery, that of the Trinity, was founded by Catherine ; it is adorned with choice Italian marbles, and good paintings, including one by Ru- bens ; the tomb of the saint is of massive silver, and weighs 3,500 pounds. The keys of Adrianople are suspended near the tomb. The treasury of the convent con- tains coffers filled with fine pearls and precious stones from Persia, religious ornaments, vases of great value, and a number of curiosities, among which may be mentioned the cross of St. Alexander, and the bed on which Peter the Great died. Many of the principal Russian families have their burial- places within the convent. The Winter Palace (admis- sion to which is obtained by tickets, to be procured at the en- trance of the Council of State, near the small canal wliich flows into the Neva), was built in 1754, in the reign of Catherine, on the right bank of the Neva, and re- constructed by Kleinmichel, after the terrible conflagration of 1837. It is a vast edifice of four stories. The interior is richly adorned with paintings, bronzes, marbles, and precious stones. On New Year s day a grand fete is given here by the Emperor to all his subjects. The number of guests sometimes reaches 20,000. The principal entrance, or Ambassa- dor's staircase, is on the side of the Neva, and leads, by a magni- ficent fligiit of white marble steps, to the state apartments on the first floor. The Throne-roum is the finest of the kind in Europe ; it is faced with white marble, and the ceiling is supported on columns of the same ; the White-room is adorned with gold and emblazon- ments ; St. George's Hall is about Routei52.—WIEnZBOLOW TO ST. PETERSBURG. 675 115 ft, long by 180 ft. wide ; the Field MarshuW Gulleiy contains numtTous portraits, including one of the Duke of Wellington ; the Aleiander Hull contains j)aintings of various battles; tlie Halls of Battles are adorned with paint- ings by Hess, Kotzebue, Wille- wad, and Horace ^'ernet (by the latter, " The Cajjture of War- saw); the Golden Chamber is richly decorated, and contains a beautiful specimen of ancient mo- saic ; the llalU of Fompeii, and the purchased from a Greek by Count Orluff for J/iOjOCH) silver "roubles and a liberal annuity, and pre- sented to Catherine II. Of the two chapels, one is resplendent with gilding and painting by Bruloff. The room is shown in which the Krapi-ror Nicholas died on tiie 2nd of Alarch, 1855. The HtR.MiTAGE isclosed during August. It is open every day, except Friday, for the rest of the year; from I'ebruary to July, from 9 to 5, and from. September ST. PI :.G. Empress's Winter Garden contain rare plants and flowers ; the lio- manoff Gallery contains the por- traits of all the sovereigns of that house, and their wives, since Michael Fedorovitch. Near the entrance of this gallery, on the right, is a green curtain, behind which is a tablet inscribed with the rules drawn up by the Em- press Catherine to be enforced at her conversazione at the Her- mitage. The Jewel-room con- tains, among other objects, the Imperial crown, sceptre, and ball. The sceptre contains a diamond, weighing 194 carats, which was to the end of January, from 10 to 3. It adjoins the Winter Palace. It was commenced in 1765 by the Empress Catherine, as a retreat from the cares of public life, and was reconstructed 1840-50. The fafade is adorned with busts and statues of celebrated men of all nations. A splendid staircase leads to the tirst story. The Mu- seum of the Hermitage i< com- posed chiefly of three celebrated collections — those of "M. Crozat, Lord Walpole, and part of the paintings of the Choiseul collec- tion. It contains about 1650 paintings of all schools. Among 676 Route 152.— WIERZBOLOW TO ST. PETERSBURG. others are 20 by Murillo, 6 by Velasquez, 60 by Rubens, 34 by Van Dyck, 40 by Teniers, 41 by Rembrandt, 50 by Wouvermans, 9 by Paul Potter, 40 by Ruys- dael, and 40 by Snyders. The Museum contains also 18,000 desigTis by great masters, 100,000 engravings, 10,(/00 en- gi-aved stones, vases, &c. &c. Tlie Taurida Palace is only re- markable for a ball-room of the extraordinary dimensions of 320 ft. long by 70 ft. wide, and re- quiring 20,000 wax candles to light it up completely. The Annitchkoff Palace, on the Nevsky Prospect, near the Fontanka Canal, closes the brilliant range of buildings of which that street is composed ; it was the favourite residence of the Emperor Nicho- las, and is now the residence of the Crown Prince. The Michael Palace, built by the Emperor Paul, is considered to be the most elegant building in the city. It is now a School of Engineers. The Marble Palace, a beautiful edifice, was constructed in 1790-83 for Gregory OrlofF, the favourite of Catherine. It contains many elegant apartments. Its English garden is worthy a visit. The Admiralty is an immense brick building, surmounted by a slender tower with a gilt cupola. The main part of the building lies parallel to the river on its north side, but has its principal facade on the south, facing tlie square. The length of this facade is nearly half a mile ; and at right angles to it are two sides, each 650 ft. in length. Imme- diately below the Admiralty, lin- ing the Russian quay, are the extensive dockyards ; and in the immediate vicinity are the Hotel de I'Etat Major, or head depart- ment of the army, adorned with a triumphal chariot ; and the IFar- office, conspicuous by its profusion of gigantic columns. The Citadel, with its bastions and bristling embrazures, mounted with 100 cannon, and defended by a garriso7i of 3,000 men, forms a very conspicuous object ; it contains within its enclosure the Mini. Near to the latter is the wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, consisting of three small apart- ments, and containing, among other relics, the boat which he constructed. Libraries and Museums. The Imperial Library occupies a large building, near the Kazan Church, facing the Nevsky Prospect. It contains 400,000 printed volumes, and about 15,000 MSS. The libraries of the Academy of Sciences, Hermitage, and Alex- ander Nevsky Monastery, also possess fine collections, and some MSS. of great variety and value. The principal museums are those of the Academy of Sciences, occupying a large portion of the magnificent buildings on the Vasiliostrov, opposite to the Admiralty, and which include an Asiatic museum, rich in all kinds of Eastern curiosities, and an Egyptian museum, with a few fine specimens of papyrus; a museum of natural history, con- taining an admirable collection of birds, and, among the larger fossil animals, of which Siberia fur- nishes numerous specimens, a mammoth perfect (with the ex- ception of one of the hind feet), 16 ft. long, and at least 2 ft. higher than the elephant. The Hermitage Museum has been already mentioned. The other important collections are the Romanoff' Museum, and the museum attached to the Mining School. Route 152.'-lVIERZBOLO]V TO ST. PETERSBURG. 677 Tjieatues. In addition to the theatre of the JIiTmitage, there are three of large dimensions, the JioUkoi or Great Tbeatre, the Alex- ander Theatre, and the French Theatre. The three are under the immediate management, and kept up at the expense of the Govern- ment. Public Movi'mf.nts. Two of these are j)articularly deserving of notice. Tiie one is the eques- trian statue of Peter the Great, by Falconet ; and tlie other, the column by Montferrand, erected in honor of the late Emperor Alexander. The statue, situated near the southern extremity of the Isaac bridge, facing the Neva, represents the emperor with head uncovered, and encircled by laurel, in the act of mounting a rock, one hand holding the reins, while the other is calmly outstretched as in the act of benediction. The Alexander column stands in the open space between the Etat Major and the Winter Palace, and is the greatest monolith of modern times. It consists of a single shaft of red granite upwards of 80 ft. high, and computed to weigh nearly 400 tons, placed on a pedest;il composed ot an enor- mous blockof thesame red granite, about 25 ft. square, and sur- mounted by a cajiital formed of Turkish cannon, above which the statue of an angel. It ft. high, and of a cross 7 ft. high are placed. The height of the whole is 150 ft. The summer gaudens are the favourite promenade of the in- habitants of St. Petershurg. They are one mile long by half a mile in breadth, and hw. hand- somely wooded and ornamented with statues, &c. In these gar- dens, in the Summer I'alace in which Peter the Great resided, a few articles of furniture used by i»im are still preserved. St. Petersburg, having been founded by Peter the Great in the beginning of the 18th century, is entirely modern, and has nothing so remarkable in its history as the rajiidity with winch, in spite of natural disadvantages, it has advanci-d to its present magnitude and sidrndour. Instead of being situated in tlu' heart of a beauti- ful and fertile district, the whole country around, when not forest or swamj), consists chiefly of moorland waste, or of poor arable land. PetertheGreathoweverwasnot the man to be daunted by ordinary difficulties. Even in his reign St. Petersburg not only received the name, but assumed the ap- pearance of a great caj)ital. Its progress was not very rapid under Lis immediate successors, who were disposed to give Moscow the preference ; but his later de- scendants, counting it an honour to follow in his steps, have carried on their embellishments on a scale of almost unexampled magni- ticence, and none of the oldest and proudest of European cities have much to boast of when brought into comparison with St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg to Peterhof. About 18\ miles; 1st class, 85c.; 2n(l, 70 c. ; 3rd, 35 c. The situation of Peterhof is remarkably beautiful. The ter- race commands a tine view of St. Petersburg and Cronstadt in the distance, while directly below are the grounds laid out with shady groves, statues, and ornamental pieces of water. The Palace, built by Peter the Great, after the designs of Leblond, comprises sjiacious and beautiful chambers, adorned with a profusion of mar- bles and malachites, and possess- 678 Route i52.— WIERZBOLOW TO ST. PETERSBURG. ing a collection of 368 portraits of beautiful Russian girls, in their national costume, painted for Catherine II. The gardens and park contain numerous fountains ; one of them, representing a colossal group called Sampson, throws a jet ot upwards of 120 ft. ; others form various devices, in marble and gilt bronze ; the smaller foun- tains play every day during the residence of the court. In the gardens are the buildings styled Marly and Mont Plaisir, the Hej-- mitage, celebrated for its dining- room, the table in which is served without the presence of any domestic ; and the cottage of the Empress Catherine, very plain without, but beautifully decorated internally. On the rare occa- sions, when fetes are lield, which extend over three days, the foun- tains are illuminated. Some dis- tance from Peterhof are situated, Ropscha, another imperial resi- dence; Znameiuky, belonging to the Grand Duke Nicholas; Mi- chciilofsky, the seat of the Grand Duke Michael; and the Castle of Nariachhine. St. Petersbitrg to Cronstadt. The distance is about 20 miles. Cronstadt is a fortified town of 48,000 inhabitants, and a garrison of 15,000 troops, situated on the island of Kottlin, and forming the port and suburb of St. Peters- burgh. It was founded by Peter the Great, and considerably enlarged and strengthened by the Emperor Nicholas. The forti- fications are of brick, faced with gi-anite. The arsenals and docks are very spacious ; the rade, the prm- cipal station of the Russian fleet, can accommodate 30 vessels. The quays are magnificent, and are constructed of solid granite. Vessels of very great tonnage usually disembark part of their cargo at Cronstadt before enter- ing the Neva to proceed to St. Petersburg. Route 153. ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. 400^ miles; 1st class (erpress^ 19 r.; '2nd, 13 r. ; 3rd 10 r. ^^-^^HE principal stations are Q^ rC very comfortably ar- jT^s 1^1 ranged, the buffets are K^^^^ numerous, and well sup- plied with refreshments, and a suitable time is allowed for ob- taining them. Passing Kolpino (15f miles), we reach Luban (51^ miles), where a delay of half an hour takes place. At Tchudov we cross the Volkhof, which flows from Lake Umen into Lake La- doga. This is the station in win- ter for Novogorod the Great ; the rest of the journey being made on sledges ; in summer the steamers start from Volkhova, on Lake 11- men. At Malo - Vyshera (100^ miles), {Buffet), we cross the Msta. A ravine, near the station, is spanned by a handsome iron bridge. Okuiojka (145f miles), (Buffet). A little to the left of the station of Valdai (175^ miles) is Valdai, a town of 4,000 inha- bitants, situated on a lake of the same name, at the base of well- wooded hills, from which the Dwina, the Volga, and the Volk- hof derive their sources. Bolo- govo (1952 miles), (Buffet). Vischni-Volotchok (210 miles) is a place of 14,000 inhabitants situated on the Tsna. Spirova (243f miles'), (Buffet). Ostashkof ('255 miles) is the station for Torjuk, a town of 16,000 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in the manufacture of nussiA. Route 153.— ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. 679 gold and silver-embroidery. W'e next reach Tvkr ('jyo.J miles), (Bitfet), population 'J5,0()0. It is situated at the confluence of the Tvertsa and tiie V'oljj;a, and is the seat of the o^overnment of the same name. Founded in 118'J, the ca|)ital of a principality in the 13th century, it was re-united to Russia in 11-90. The Cathedral was restored in 168'J. The Church of the Triititii, built in 15U4, is a specimen of ancient Russian archi- tecture. A considerable trade is carried on here in corn, and in iron, from the mines in the Ural mountains. Steamers sail rejjularly on the Volga to Nijni-Novgorod, Sara- toft" and Astrakan, Passing A.7m (5,200 inhabitants) and Krukova station, whence the monastery of the New Jerusalem or V'oskresenski may be visited (14 miles), we reach IMoscovv (400^ miles), (Hotels: Dusaux. Chevrier, Billot, de Diesde), poj)ula- tion -l'JO,()00. Thiscity, tlieancient capital of Russia, and formerly the residence of the Czars, is situated in a fertile district on the Moskva. Previously to its being burned in 1812, Moscow was, perhaps, the most irregularly-built city in Europe, and this description of it will, to a large extent, liold good at the present day. Its incon- gruities of architecture are, liow- ever, less conspicuous than they formerly were, when the flames of the Russian capital exerted so fatal an influence over the desti- nies of the first \apoleon. The general view of the town, especially that obtained from an eminence on its southern side, called the Sparrow Hills, is emi- nently original and picturescjue. In the heart of tlie city is an inner enclosure, or citadel, the famous Kremlin, a triangle, two miles in circuit, crowded with palaces, churches, monasteries, arsenals, museums, and other buildings; but in wiiicli tiieTartar style of architecture, with gilded domes and cupolas, forms the pre- dominant feature. The KuKMi.iN. — The Redeem- er's Gate, (Sj)asky Vorota) is the sacred gate. Persons are required to uncover their heads in passing through it. It has an old paint- ing, an object of great veneration to all Russians, before which candles are always burning. The Gate of St. ?>'icholas is also an ob- ject of veneration. The old palaces of the Kremlin were of wood, exce])t the Grano- vitaia-Palata, and suflfered much from the inv;isions of the Tartars, and from numerous fires. Tlie Kremlin was almost entirely de- stroyed in 1812. The present Palace was erected in the reign of Nicholas I., 1838-49. Among its dejiartments are, the Hall of St. George, the walls of which bear in gold letters, the names of soldiers decorated with that order ; the Hall of St. Alexander Nevsky ; of St. Andrew ; St. Catherine, and the banqueting - hall, decorated with scenes from Don Quixote. The Terema or Terem, a very in- teresting part of the Palace, was anciently devoted to the Empress and her children. It consists of four stories, which diminish until the upper floor contains but one room. In the first story are shown the Audience Chamber of the sovereigns. The Terem contains a collection of portraits of the Tsars. The terrace commands a fine view. It was here Xapoleon came to contemplate the marvels of the city. The little Church of the Re- deemer contains some rich deco- rations. Its exterior is remarkable for its twenty cu])olas. The Granovitaia- Palata cou- 680 Route 153— ST. PETEBSBURG TO MOSCOW. Russia. tains the Hall where, after their coronation, the Emperors dined with the nobles. The Little Palace (]Maloi-Dvo- retz), was built by Nicholas I, wlio resided in it for a few years after his marriage. The Cathedral of the As- sumption is upon the Cathedral Place. It was founded in 1325 and rebuilt in 1472. It presents a curious assemblage of ornaments, arabesques and pictures of saints. The architecture of the interior is Greco-Italian. Among its trea- sures are a Mount Sinai in pure gold; a Bible, the gift of the mother of Peter the Great, so heavy with gold and precious stones that two men are required to carry it ; a picture, said to be by St. Luke ; and 2,000 or more portraits of saints and celebrated personages. The Emperors of Russia are crowned in this church. The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, contains the portraits of the sovereigns of Russia up to Peter the Great, and their tombs. The Church of the Annunciation, where the Czars are baptized, is rich in relics. Its pavement is of jasper, cornelian and agate. The House of the Sy)iod was once the house of the Patriarchs of Moscow. It contains the trea- sm-y and library of the Patriarchs. The sacerdotal robes, church ves- sels and plate of the Patriarchs are deposited here. Here, in sil- ver vessels, is kept the holy oil, made only by the Holy Synod of Moscow, with which all Russian children are baptized. The Treasury (open Mondays and Thursdays, and to see which a permit must be had at the Cham- berlain's office in the Senate,with in the Kremlin) contains a collection of objects of great value and in- terest. In one of the apartments are the old state carriages of the Court of Moscow ; among them is a miniature carriage which be- longed to Peter the Great when a child. The crowns are exceed- ingly rich in precious stones, that of Catherine I. containing no less than 2,536 and that of Michael Romanoff 9,000. The Arsenal, near the Treasury, contains a great number of cannon taken from the Turks, Swedes, Poles, French and Prussians. The Tower of Ivan Veliki, or John the Great, is the most re- markable in Moscow, It was built in 1600. It is five stories high, four being octagonal and the last cylindrical. It is 320 feet high to the top of the cross. The base- ment is a chapel. In the stories above are 34 bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. These bells are all rung at Easter, pro- ducing a wonderful eftect. The view from the summit of this tower is one of the most striking in the world. The Tsar Kolokol, or Rlonarch of Bells, is at the foot of the tower of Ivan. The tower in which it was suspended was burned in 1737. In 1837 the Emperor Ni- cholas placed it in its present position. Its weight is 444,000 pounds. Its height is 19 feet, its circumference 60 feet. The figures in relief are those of Alexis and the Empress Ann, and on the scroll are represented the Saviour, the Virgin and the Evangelists surrounded by cherubims. The value of the metal in this bell is estimated at £350,000. Edifices outside the Kremlin. The Katai Gorod, or Chinese town^ founded by Helena, the mother of .Tohn the Terrible, is under the walls of the Kremlin. It contains many important edifices, among others the Cathedral of St. Basil, the bazaars, the Roman- off Palace, &c. RUSSIA. Route 155.— ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. 681 The Cathedral of St. Basil is a curious spt^cimen of archi- tecture. It is a medley of ^reat and small domes, each different in colour and desisjn, surmounting chapels dedicated to various saints. It was built in 153-i, by Ivan IV. (Iverskie A'orata), dedicated to the .Mother of God, is the prin- cipal entrance to the Kitai Gorod, or Chint'se town. The chapel contains a picture of the Ibenan Mother of God, brought from IMount Athos in the reign of CATH£))IIAL OF ST. BASIL. in memory of the capture of Ka- ran. The tradition is that he was So much pleased with it when completed that he caused the eyes of the Italian architect who planned it to be jjut out, so that It might never be surpassed. The Iberian Gate and Chapel Alexis (1650), and considered of miraculous efficacy. It is con- stantly beset by worshippers whose gifts amount to £7,000 per annum. The Convent of Donskoi, in the southern extremity of the city, that of Simonoff and of De- 682 Route IbS.— ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. russia. vitcliei are well worth visiting", as is the Foundling- Hospital, which admits 12,000 children every year. TheUniversity, founded in 1775, numbers 900 students. The Great Riding School is said to be the largest room in the world unsup- ported by pillars. Its length is 560 ft., its breadth 158 ft. and its height 42 ft. The Great Theatre contains an elegant hall. The Gostinnoi Dvor, or bazaar, is an enormous building of three stories, tilled with sliops. It is the largest bazaar in Russia, ex- cept that at Nijni Novgorod. It contains more than 1,000 shops, in which is exposed for sale mer- chandise from all parts of the world. The Villa of the Empress is a little way to the south-east of the city, close by the Moskova. It is a beautiful villa, surrounded by magnificent gardens. Near by are the Sparrow hills, from which Napoleon obtained his first view of Moscow. Route 154. MOSCOW TO NIJNI NOV- GOROD. (The traveller is recommended to go by the night train, and, passing the day at Nijni Novgo- rod, to return to Moscow by the night train.) 271f miles: 1st class, 12 r. 3 c.; 2nd, 9 r. 22 c. ; 3rd, 5 r. 12 c. EAVING Moscow we reach Pavi.ofsk (40 miles), ( Buffet), popu- lation 4,000. Passing several unimportant places we ar- rive at Vladimir (117 miles), (Buffet), a town of 15,500 inha- bitants, the capital of the province of tliat name, and the seat of a celebrated ecclesiastical seminary, within the precincts of which the remains of St. Alexander Nevsky were for a long time entombed. Built on the wooded lieights above the Kliazma, and adorned with a fine cathedral, it has a very im- posing appearance. The inha- bitants depend for subsistence chiefly on their orchards and on the traffic they carry on at the great fair of Nijni Novgorod. This province is one of the most fertile and industrious in the Em- pire. It exports large quantities of grain, and possesses many flou- rishing manufactories. The next place of importance is Knvriif{163 miles), ( Billet), population 4,000, on the right bank of the Kliazma. Here are some cotton factories, &c. Viazniki (194 miles), (Buffet), population 5,000. Linen manu- factures are carried on here. The country is rich in corn, great quantities of which are exported. Nijni Novgorod (271f miles), (Hotels : de Russie, Egoroff's), population 45,000, is situated at the confluence of the Oka with the Volga. It is divided into two parts, the high town and the low town. The high town is chiefly composed of three hand- some streets, which converge towards an irregular open space. Beyond this space rises the Krem- lin, or citadel, finely situated on the highest point of the trian- gle, and immediately overhanging the bed of the Volga. It is sur- rounded by a wall 30 ft. in height, flanked with 13 towers, and con- tains the principal edifices of the town. Among those deserving of mention are the Cathedrals of the Archangel and of the Trans- figuration, and the Governor's nussiA. Routei54.— MOSCOW TO NIJNI NOVGOROD. 683 July, an immense township sud- denly starts into existence, having' Palace. There art; in all 48 cliurches, some of great size ami beauty, two monasteries and a uunnery. In the Citadel is an obelisk 76 ft. high, erected in memory M inin and Pojarsky, the deliverers of Moscow. Tlie town is noted for its great annual fair, whicli takes place in July and August, and whicli is attended by upwards of 200,000 persons. It is held on a spacious plain between the two rivers Oka and Volga. In the midst of this sj)ace, towards the end of township sud- cistence, navinj: churches, hospitals, barracks and theatres. A handsome building is erected in the centre of tlie bazaar, in which, during the continuance of the fair, the governor of tlie town, with a numerous train of officials resides. Round the public offices are ranged the European wares. 'Next follow the Armenians. Nearly a whole side of the bazaar is occupied by the Chinese mar- ket, in which tea is the chief article of trade. Here are mer- chants from Europe ; Rokharians, Khivans, Kirghizes, Tartars, Ar- menians, Persians, and Chinese, all engaged in buying and selling, and surrounded by a motley group of visitors, not less amusing, in their individual characteristics, than the fair itself. Merchandise, to the amount of £16,000,000, often changes bands during the short time the fair lasts. Route 155. ST. PETERSBURG TO BER- LIN, BY WARSAW. (Tlie route from St. Petersburg to VVilna, is described in Route l.'j'J ; tliat between Bromberg and Berlin, in Route 104. From IVilna to Warsaw, 256 miles ; 1st class, 11 r. 63 c.; '2nd, 8 r. 73 c. ; Sid, 4 r. 86 c. EAVING Wilna, we pass several stations, in- cluding Pureche (77|- miles), (Butt'et), and reach Grodno, a town of 25,000 inhabitants, situated on the Nie- men. It was the ancient capital of Lithuania, and subsequently the residence of the kings of Poland. Here are some handsome churches, a palace, and a fine bridge across the river. Passing Bialystok, pojiulation 15,000, and several other jtlaces, we reach Lapij (16oJ miles), [Biijfet), and about four hours afterwards. Warsaw (256^ miles), (Hotels: de r Europe, d'Ani;leteiTe,de Paris), l)0])ulation, 185,000. This was tile cajiital of the ancient kingdom of Poland; it is situated on the left bank of the Vistula, and is connected by a bridge of boats witli tlie suburb of Praga, on the opposite side of the river. It is enclosed by a rampart and fosse, entered by ten gates, and defended by a vast citadel, recently erected. It has several large public scjuares, among which that of Sigisniund, adorned with a bronze colossal statue of Sigisniund III., is particularly deserving of notice. Among the principal public buildings, are, the Cathedral of 684 Route 155— Sr. PETERSBURG TO BERLIN. Russia. St. John, a Gothic building of great beauty, containing statuettes and many interesting monuments, including one by Thorwaldsen ; the Church of the Holfi Cross; Carmelite and Lutheran churches, the latter a fine structure; the Zamek, or ancient palace of the Polish kings ; the Palace of Casi- mir, adorned in front with a statue of Copernicus ; the Saxon ■palace, with fine gardens and a pro- menade; the Krasinsky palace ; the arsenal, mint, exchange, and national theatre. Warsaw is an extensive com- mercial emporium, and has two large annual fairs, each of which lasts three weeks. Of the castles in the vicinity, the residence of Sobieski is still remarked for its beautiful gar- dens, and for an equestrian statue of John Sobieski. Since 1815, Warsaw has been the residence of a viceroy, repre- senting the Emperor of Russia. Leaving Warsaw, we passii«rfa Giizovska, (28 miles), and reach Skierniewitz ("42 miles), popu- lation, 3,200. Here a branch goes to Vienna. Lovitsh, population, 5,000, situated on the Bzur, is a commercial town, celebrated for its horse fairs. Kutno, situated on the Okhna, has 6,000 inhabi- tants. Vlotslavek, population, 8,000, situated on the Vistula. A considerable trade is done here in corn. Alexandrov is the last Rus- sian station. The first Prussian station is Otloczyn. We presently reachTuons, (Hotel : Sans Soiici), a town of 16,500 inhabitants, situated on the right bank of the Vistula, opposite Podgurcze, with which it is connected by a bridge about 900 yards long. This was the birthplace of the great astro- nomer, Copernicus, whose tomb is in the church of .St. John. The Hotel-de-Ville is partly of the fourteenth, partlj of the sixteenth century. The hritmme Thurm is a leaning tower, about 50 ft. high. We observe a curious old gate- way, called Kulmer Thor, the ruins of a castle dating from the thirteenth century, and a fortified tower cilled Katzenschwunz. Bromberg. (For the remainder of the Route, see Route 104.) EorTE 156. ST. PETERSBURG TO STOCKHOLM, by sea. -*^HE distance run by the steamers is about 540 miles. Steamers leave St. Petersburg and Stockholm every Tuesday and Friday morning. Time occupied, usually 3^ days. The steamers run only by day, the great num- ber of islands and shoals render- ing night navigation dangerous. The firstnight is spent at Wyborg, the second at Helsingfors, the third at Abo, and Stockholm is reached on the fourth. Leaving St. Petersburg we pass the powerful fortress of Cronstadt, and passing the night at Wyborg, reach Helsingfors (252 miles), (Ho- tels : Society's House, Kleinch), on the north coast, nearly opposite Revel. This town, of 20,000 in- habitants, is the capital of Fin- land, and, next to Cronstadt, the most important naval station on the Baltic. A series of formidable batteries, known as the fortifica- tions of Sweaborg, consisting of seven fortified islands, protect the harbour. Such is the strength of these fortifications, that the name of the Northern Gibraltar has been given to them. They mount over 1,000 guns, and 12,000 men Route 156.— ST. PETERSBURG TO STOCKHOLM. 685 are required to parrison them. Helsingfors is the handsomest town in Finland ; the streets generally intersect at right angles, and there are several handsome squares. The most striking build- ing is the Governor's house. The Senate House and the University- buildings are also fine. The Uni- versity has 60 professors, and the number of students is usually 600. The library contains 90,000 vo- lumes. During the Russian war the fortifications vrere fruitlessly bombarded during two days, Au- gust 9th and 10th, 1855, by ships of the allies. Helsingfors pos- sesses some beautiful promenades, among which may be specified the forest of Standswik, and the gardens of Traeakenda. We now proceed to Alio (400 miles), (Hotels: So- ciety's Home), population 20,000. It is situated on tlie east coast of the Gulf of Bothnia, near its en- trance, in a bay covered over with islands. Founded in the 12th century bv St. Eric, and endowed with a Oniversity in 1630 by Gustavus Adolphus, this town was almost wholly destroyed by a conflagration in 1827. The Uni- versity has been transferred to Helsingfors. There are no public buildings of any interest. We now proceed nearly due west, and, passing on the right the Aland islands, reach Stockholm. For a descriptio of this city see Route 159. DENMARK, SWEDEN AND NORWAY. ROUTES. Page Eonte 157. Hamburg to Copen- hagen 688 Copenhagen to Elsi- noue 691 Copenhagen to Stock- holm Stockholm to Gotten- BuuG, BY Gota Canal Stockholm to Gotten- 158. 159. 160. 161. BURG, BY Railway Denmark. 691 694 696 ^HE continental por- tion of Denmark is bounded on the north by the channel of the Skager-rack, on the west by the North Sea, on the south by Germany, and on the east by the Baltic Sea and the Kattegat. The total area is 14,553 English square miles, and the population, at the last census, taken in 1860, was 1,608,362. The continental of portion Denmark belongs to the great European plain, and is almost entirely level. There are some inequalities of surface in tlie in- terior of Holstein, but the eleva- tion is very inconsiderable. The coasts are generally low, and the western shores are in many places protected from inundations of the sea by means of dykes, as in Hol- land. The rivers are inconsiderable Eont« Page 162. Stockholm to Chris- tiania 696 163. Christiania TO Chris- tiansand .... 698 164. Christiania to Ber- gen BY THE FiLLE- Fjeld 699 165. Bergjen TO Hammee- FEST 700 in point of size ; the Eyder, which forms the boundary between Sleswig and Holstein, flows into the North Sea, and is navigable for small vessels below the town of Rendsburg, whence a canal connects it with the town of Kiel, on the Baltic coast. Near the eastern borders of the king- dom is the Trave, which flows into the Baltic below Lubeck. There are a great number of lakes, both on the mainland and in the island, generally of small size. The islands that belong to Den- mark comprise, besides those si- tuated at the entrance of the Baltic, Iceland, and the group of the Faroe Islands. The climate of Denmark is humid, but generally temperate; vapours and moist fogs are of frequent occurrence, owing to the abundance of water ; but these are dispersed by the strong winds which prevail (luring a great part of the year. DENMARK, SWEDEN AND NORWAY. 687 The winter is frequently severe, and both snow and rain ar»' of almost constant occunvnco during that season. Money. — One mark is 16 rigs- hank skil. ec|ual to il^d. Knglish, or '.) cents U.S. money. Six marks make one rigsbunk dolhir, einial to 2s. 3d. oroti.ccnts. Tworigsbank dollars make 1 specie dollar, cciual to 4s. 6d. or 1 dollar and I'J cents. SwEDKN and Nouw.xy occupy the north-western portion of Europe — a peninsidar region to which the name of Scandinavia has been given. Norway lies along the western side of the peninsula: Sweden occupies its ea.stern and broader clivision. Although distinguished by se- parate names the two countries form, in reality, but parts of one region in a geographical sense, and they are united politically. The kingdoms of Sweden and Norway were consolidated into a single state in 1814. The entire area of the Scandi- navian peninsula is 2!;)2,700 square miles, of which Sweden contains about 170.000. Tlie seas, rivers, and lakes ge- nerally abound in fish. In the Lofoden Islands, the fisheries not only supply a large proportion of the ordinary food of the peasantry, both in Sweden and Norway, but a great (piantity of the better kind is exported. The rivers in the northern part of Norway are much resorted to by visitors on account of the abundance of fine salmon which they contain. The peculiar ph3-sical character of Norway gives rise to consider- able variations of climate through- out the country. On the coast generally, rain and fogs prevail ; while in the regions near the North Cape, storms are almost incessant, and rage with extraor- dinary violence. In the interior the air is clear and dry. In Norway proj)er the winters, as a rule, are long and cold ; and the sununers, which rajjidly fol- low the melting of the snows in Ajiril and May, are warm and ]ileasant. On the i.slands, how- ever, the heats of summer are often insufficient to ripen the corn. The j)rotracted winter of the northern regions follows almost suddenly on the disappearance of the sun, when the absence of solar light is compensated for by the frequent ap])earance of the aurora borealis, which shines with suffi- cient intensity to allow of the prosecution of ordinary occupa- tions. The chief rivers of Norway are the Glommen, Lougen, Louven, Drammen, Otter, and Wormen. The first of these has a course of •100 miles, but the majority of Norwegian streams, all of which rise at great elevations, have a comparatively short course, and are not navigable. Sweden forms three great re- gions — Swealand in the centre, (jothland in the south, and Nord- land in the north. These are divided politically into 24 govern- ments, or LUns, of which 8 are in Sweden proper, 12 in Gothland, and the remaining 4 in Nordland, wiiicii hist division includes the Swedish portion of Lapland. Unlike Norway, Sweden pos- sesses few high mountains, but contains numerous lakes of large dimensions. In the northern parts the land rises graduallv from the Gulf of Bothnia to the Kiiilen I\Iount;iins, which form the boun- dary between Sweden and Norway. South of 62° north latitude the slope is directed southward, at- taining its lowest level in the vicinity of the three great lakes of Wenern, Malar, and Hielmar, (,88 SWEDEN AND NORWAY. •which nearly intersect the country from east to west ; and south of these great inland waters the sur- face is in general level, though ranges of high ground and de- tached hills occur. The rivers of Sweden are nu- merous, and the lakes, which are on a gigantic scale, give to the scenery of the country several of its grandest features. The most impoi'tant of the latter are lakes Wenern, Wettern, and Miilar. The population of the United Kingdom, taken at the last census, was 5,897,046. Swedish Money. — 100 ore (1 riksdaler) equal Is. Ijrf. Eng- lish, or say 27 cents. There are no gold coins in general use. The silver coins are 4, 2, 1 riksdaler pieces. At the rate of £1, or 5 dollars for 18 riksdalers ; 5s. or 1 dollar 25 cents, are equal to 4 riksdalers, 50 ore ; Is. or 25 cents equal 90 ore ; Id. or 2 cents equal 7^ ore. Norwegian Money. — The specie dollar, containing 5 marks or orts of 24 sk. each, making 120 sk. The silver money comprises 1 sp. dollar; ^ ditto; 1 mark or 24 sk. ; J mark or 12 s/c. ; and i mark or 8 sk. One skilling ecpials jd. English or 1 cent ; 1 mark equals lOfd. or 21 cents; a specie dollar equals 4s. 5d. or 1 dollar and 10 cents. Those preferring a shorter sea passage will find the steamers of the " Anchor line," which sail every Tuesday from Granton ( near Edinburgh) to Christiania and G othenburg, the most com fortable. Steamers leave Hull at frequent intervals for all the chief ports of Norway. Steamers sail twice a week or oftener from Kiel and Liibeck for Copenhagen and the principal ports of Sweden and Norway. Route 157. HAMBURG TO COPEN- HAGEN. 306 miles. Time by railway, 16 hours. Isf class, loth, ITj sgr. ; 2nd, 9 th. 22^ sgr. EAVING the terminus at Altona, we pre- sently reach Elmshorn on the Kriikau. The country is fertile, but abounding in marshes. A branch line goes off to Itzehoe, by way ofGl'uckstadt, an important commercial town of 6,000 inhabitants, on the Elbe, with a good port, and carrying on a considerable fishing trade. Neuinunster (50 miles), population 6,900, has several cloth manufac- tories. [From Neumiinster a line goes direct to Kiel, a seaport town, of 17,500 inhabitants, on the Baltic. Its University com- prises collections of natural his- tory and antiquities. In the Castle are the museum and a col- lection of paintings and plaster casts. Steamers sail frequently for Copenhagen and St. Peters- burg.] Passing Rendsburg (66 miles) and KlosterKrug{78 miles), from which latter place a branch goes to Schkswig, the capital of the Duchy of Schleswig-Holstein. Flensburg (115 miles, population 19,800, situated on the yord, or bay, of the same name. Passing Hadersleben, where there is a fine church, and a monument to Luther, we reach Raiding (160 miles), the capital of Jiitland, situated on the gulf of that name. Above It rise the ruins of a castle built in the 13th century. Pass- ing Fredericia (176 miles^ we reach Strdb (181 miles). Here DENMARK. Route 157.— HAMBURG TO COPENHAGEN. (".89 we leave the train and cross the Little Belt, the ii;iiiie fjiven to tlie strait SHparatintf Juthind from Funfn. 'J lie landinj^ j)hice is at Middelfait ( 18o miles). We go on to OoKNsE (^liJ miles), a town of 15,000 inhabitants, the capital of Funen, and one of the oldest towns in Denmark. Ac- cording- to tradition it was founded by Odin, whose tumulus and castle, near the lake of Xaesby- hoved, a short distance from Odense, are shown. The Cathe- dral, founded by Canute in the year 1080, and restored in loOO, is a very tine structure. The Raadhaus is very ancient. The popular writer, Andersen, and the sculptor, Jerichau, were na- tives of this place. At Nt/borg ^2'29 miles) we embark in a steamer, and cross the Great Belt to Korsor (243 miles). At Soro (261 miles) there is an academy, established in the l!2th century, and a beautiful Gothic church, containing; the tombs of the J5ishop Absalon, the historian Holber<;-, and King; Waldemar IV^. The old church of Ringsted contains the tombs of seven Danish kings, and several monuments, among which is said to be that of Canute the Great. Roeshilde (287 miles) was anciently the capital of the kingdom. The Gothic Cathedral was built by Canute the Great, in the 11th century to atone for the murder of his brother-in-law. It contains the tombs of 72 members of the royal family of Denmark. The most remarkable are those of Frederick IV. and \". Christian III. and IV. by Thorwaldsen ; of Frederick II., a beautiful alabaster mausoleum ; and of (^ueen Mar- garet. The altar is adorned with sculptures, representing the Na- tivity and the Passion. Passing several unimportant places, we reach CoPFNiiAGEN (HoteLi : Rovul, d'Aiit;leterre, dn Nord, B han ii). Pojiulation, 185,143. The prin- cipal I'LACKs are the Kongens iV'ytorv, from which extend 13 streets, (upon it are the Palace of Cliarlotteiiborg, the theatre, mili- tary school, and many fine build- ings); and the Fredericks Plads, surrounded bj' palaces. The jjrin- cijial streets are the Amaliegade, liredgade, and Goethersgade. The Frite Kirke (church of the Virgin) was destroyed by the English fleet, in the bombardment of i8i)7, but restored in 1829. It is adorned with sculjitures by Thorwaldsen, including the Preaching of John the Baptist, the Entry of Christ into Jerusalem, the Guardian Anu:el, the Twelve Apostles, the Redeemer, Luther and Melancthon, ix.c. ; the choir, in the form of a rotunda, is sur- mounted by a cupola ; there is an excellent view trom the summit of the tower. The Church of the Tn/fifi/ was erected in the 17th century, by Christian I\'. The vaulted roof rests on 14 octagonal pillars; the altar, the pulpit, the stalls, and most of the decora- tions are of carved wood. This is commonly calhid the Runde Kirhe ( Round church), from its lofty round tower, or belfry, which is ascended by a spiral inclined plane. The Church of the Holt/ Spirit contains a good painting of Luther at the Diet of \\ orms, by A. Mi;iler. The Palace of Ciiristiansborg stands on the site of the palace of Bishop Absalon. The present building was reconstructed in 18;50. Its ]>rinci]ial facade is adorned with a ]>ediment sculp- tured by Borup, four bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen, and four statues in bronze, one by Thorwaldsen, the remainder by Bissen. The finest apartment is the Riddersaal X X 690 Route 157. —HAMBURG TO COPENHAGEN. Denmark. or Hall of the Knights ; its gal- lery, supported by sixteen Corin- thian columns, is ornamented with a bas-relief by Bissen. In the antechamber is the celebrated frieze by Tliorwaldsen, represent- ing the entry of Alexander into Babylon. More than 300 figures are introduced, and the total ex- tent of the frieze is about o50 ft. The chapel is simple, but elegant ; the four Ionic columns of the facade support a pediment with bas-reliefs executed by Borup after Thorwaldsen's designs. Tliis palace contains a Gallery of Paint- ings, comprising some of the works of the best masters; a Library of 450,000 volumes. TheTnoRWALD- SEN Museum near the palace, was constructed in 1846, by public sub- scription. The principal facade is in the Egyptian style ; tlie pedi- ment is crowned by a classic car with four horses, in bronze. The other facades have frescoes of the Etruscan order. In the centre of tlie great court is the tomb of Thorwaldsen (born 1770, died 1844). Altogether the museum contains 648 sculptures by the gTeat artist ; 550 of his designs ; 1,000 designs by contemporary artists ; more than 300 paintings, for the most part modern ; Eg3'p- tian, Greek and Roman antiquities ; cameos, busts, &c. The Palace of the Princes, near the Christianborg, contains the Museum of Northern Anti- quities; the Ethnographical Mu- seum; the Cabinet oj Antiquities ; the Cabinet of Eyigravings ; and the Museum of Natural History. The Amalienborg consists of four adjoining palaces, forming an oc- tagonal space, in the centre of winch is the equestrian statue of Frederic V. ; they contain the collections of vases, coins, &c., made by Christian VIII. In one of the chambers are exhibited two of the earliest efforts of Thorwald- sen, Terpsichore and Euterpe. Near them is the statue of the national poet, Oelenschlaeger, erected in 1861. The Castle of Rosenborg, in the beautiful garden of Kongens Have, was constructed in 1604 by Inigo Jones. It contains some objects of historical interest, such as the sword of Charles XII., &c., tapes- tries representing the deeds of Charles V., Runic stones, medals, arms, &c. ; in the Riddersaal is a throne of massive silver. The University, established in 1478, has upwards of 1,000 stu- dents. The facade is adorned with a bas-relief, representing a soaring eagle. In the interior are fine statues by Bissen, and frescoes by Hansen. In connection with the university are a museum of anatomy, another of botany, a botanical garden, and a library of 300,000 volumes. Before the university are the busts, in bronze, on granite pedestals, of the bo- tanist Schouw and the composer Weyse. The Bourse has a curious tower, upwards of 170 ft. high, of which the crown is composed of the tails of four dragons, intertwined. It is said that these figures were brought from Kalmar by Christian IV. as a trojjhy of victory over the Swedes. The lower portion of the Bourse is occupied by shops ; on the first story is the great hall containing a picture of Christian IV. visiting Tycho Brahe. Count de Rloltke has a fine col- lection of paintings in his palace of Thott, on the Kongens Nj torv : open every Wednesday from twelve to two. The Arsenal contains a very interesting collection of arms, ancient and modern. The principal promenades are i DKNMARK. Roiite VsQ.— COPENHAGEN TO ELSINORE. 691 upon the ramparts and the espla- nade of the citadel of Fredericks- haven, and upon the quay called Lang iiaie. Route 158. COPENHAGEN TO ELSI- NORE. 38 miles; Isf class, 1 rdr. 32 ski. ; 2nd, 1 rdi: ; 3id, 72 skr. REAVING Copenhagen Ji we reach Lynobv (8^ i^r'rr^ miles), pleasantly situ- s' ated on the borders of a lake surrounded by pretty vil- lages and country houses. The next place of any interest is Fre- DENSBORG ('28^ miles), situated on the Lake of Esrom. The Castle stands in the midst of ex- tensive gardens, which are adorned with numerous busts and statues. Here is a collection of paint- ings, principally of the Flemish and Dutch schools. From the Lake of p]srom a canal extends to the Kattegat Sound, by means of which timber is floated down to the coast. Elsixore (38 miles), (Hotel: d'Oresiind), population, 8,000, is a commercial town, commanding the passage of the Sound, and situated e.xactly o))])osite the Swedish town of flelsinborg. Up to 1857, all vessels passing the Sound paid dues at Llsinore, but the great maritime nations then succeeded in procuring their abo- lition. This sound is completely frozen over in winter. The Ca- thedral contains several handsome tombs. On tiie north of the town is the Gothic Castle of Krcnborg, built in the 16th century by Frederick IL, and sun-ounded by modern fortifications. It has an interesting chapel, and a gallery of jmintiiigs. From the terrace, and from the summit of the watch tower, there is a beautiful view, extending over the hills of Den- mark and Sweden a.s far as Cape KuUen. A little distance to the north-west of Kronborg, near the ancient royal ])alace of Marienlmt, is a pile of stones, said to be the tomb of Hamlet. It is at the Castle of Elsinore that Shake- speare makes the ghost of Ham- let's father an])ear to the sentinels and to the jirince. The palace of iMarienlyst is now a hydropathjo establishment. Route 159. COPENHAGEN TO STOCK- HOLM. Steamer to Malmx in about an hour and a half: fares, 72 ski. and 48 ski. Thence to Stock- holm by rail, 450 miles; 1st class (express), 5-1 rdr. ; "ind, 40 rdr. 50 ore ; 1st class (ordinaru), 50 rdr. 69 ore; 2nd, 33 rdr.'To ore ; 3rd, 16 rdr. 87 tire. pALMCE is a town of n about 22,000 iiihabi- ' l^l-^i R ^'""^'^J *°d of consider- ^:Ji/?-iM able imiiortance, from the fertility of the surrounding country, as well as its manufac- turing and commercial industry. I.und (10 miles), population, 9,820, is situated in a vast plain. At the commencement of the Christian era, Lund was a place of great importance, with 80,000 inhabitants. The Cathedral, of tlie 11th century, is next in size to tliose at i'p<^iil and Link'uping. The pulpit is of alabaster. Near the Cathedral is the statue of 692 lloitte 159. —COPENHAGEN TO STOCKHOLM. Denmark. Tegner. The University was founded in 1666. Puffendorf was, for a time, one of the professors. It comprises a library of 80,000 volumes, a museum, cabinet of medals, and a collection of natural history. At Esl'of (21 miles), the lines from Landskrcna and Hel- singborg fall in. At Het'eholm (52 miles), a branch line turns oiF to Christianstad. Near FJm- hutt (84 miles), the line, skirting a small lake, passes near Boshult, the birth-place of the celebrated naturalist, Linnaeus. A pyramid, with a medallion, has been erected in his honour. Nassjo (166 miles), is the highest point on the lines of the south and west, being about 1,000 ft. above the sea. Jonkoping (194 miles), population about 9,800 is situated in a plain be- tween the great Lake of \Vettern, and the small Lakes of Rocksjo and Munksjo. It is frequently flooded over by them. On the south rise lofty hills covered with pine forests. We pass round the southern extremity of Lake Wettern. Falkvpiiig (232 miles). Here a branch goes off to Gotten- burg, 71 miles distant. We see the hills of Mresseberg and Olle- berg, about 760 ft. high. Near Moholm ('27'ii miles), we cross the Gota canal, which effects a communication between the lakes of Roxun, Wenern, and Wettern, and the sea, Laxa (318 miles) ; at this point the line to Carlstad and Christiania joins this line. Near Wingiiker (355 miles), is the fine Castle of Sdfstciholm or Bonde- ^?tfe/(, containing a valuable libra- ry and an excellentpicture-gallery. The grounds are well-laid out, and comprise a fine orangery. At Sparreshfllm (391 miles), we see, on the borders of the Lake of Biifven, a Castle, containing a library, a picture gallery, and a collection of medals. Sodertetje (429 miles), is a town of upwards of 2,000 inhabitants, situated on the canal of the same name, which opens a communication between the Mselar, the Lake of Laren, and the Baltic. It was com- menced in 1435, and completed between 1780 and 1819. Here is a hydropathic establishment. We presently pass through the tunnel of Nyboda, upwards of 300 yards long, and reach Stockholm (450 miles), (Ho- tels: Rydhji£g,K ling Karl.) Popu- lation ^inl867) 140,251. This is one of the most beautiful capitals of Europe. It is built partly on the continent, and partly on nine holms, or islands, lying in the channel through which the Maelar Lake discharges its waters into the Baltic. The Helge-aand, Stads, and Riddar holms, which formed the nucleus of the ancient city, found- ed in 1250 by Birgir Jarl, contain some fine public and private build- ings. Amongst the most impor- tant is THE Palace, which, situ- ated on the highest part of Gus- tavsholm, is seen towering with its vast and massive walls above all the neighbouring houses. It was commenced in 1697, on the site of a much older structure which had been burnt down, and was completed in 1753. It is built in the form of a quadrangle, with two wings, and incloses a large court. The basement story is of granite, the rest of brick and stucco. The front to the south- east is adorned with six Corin- thian columns. The whole struc- ture is chaste, simple, and finely proportioned. Besides the apart- ments of the Royal family, and the chapel, it contains a royal li- brary of 120,000 volumes, and some rare and curious MSS. ; amu- seum possessing many valuable northern, Tuscan, and Egyptian DENMARK. Route 159.— COPENHAGEN TO STOCKHOLM. 693 antiquities ; a cabinet of 60,000 coins and medals, considered one of the finest collections of the kind in Kuroi)*.', and a jjicture gallery, with tine specimens of al- most all tlie yreat masters. The churches are 20 in number, in- cluding a French R(!formed, a Dutch Reformed, an Englisii, a Greek Russian, and a Roman have taken place in it, and from its containing tiie asiies of a long line of Swedisii monarciis. Its style was originally Uotliic, but has been mucii defaced hy modern alterations. The church of Adol- phus Frederick, in the Norrmalm, IS built in the form of a cross, and is rendered consjjicuous by its elegant tower crowned by a cop- STOCKHOI.M. Catholic. Few of the cliurohes possess much archilectural merit. The oldest is St. Nicholas, in which the sovereigns are crowned. It was founded in 1260, but has undergone so many changes that the original building has disap- peared, it is sunnounted by a lofty tower, and contains the tombs of King Magnus Smeck, and his queen Bianca. The Riddarsholra Kyrka, or churcli, was originally attached to a monastery, and pos- sesses considerable historical in- terest, both from the scenes which jier dome. The other public edi- fices deserving of notice are the Ojver - stathallershuus, a hand- some structure by Tessin, facing the quay, on which a granite ob- elisk, in honour of Gusta\-us III., has been erected; tiie RiittlerhiiuSf where the slates and also the aca- demy of sciences hold their meet- ings, and the shields of about 3,000 Swedish nobles are hung up; the Bourse; the mint, with a good collection of minerals; the town-house, a large pile, in which the principal courts of justice are 694 Route 169.— COPENHAGEN TO STOCKHOLM. Denmark. accommodated; the post office, Royal theatre or opera house, the arsenal and barracks. The Na- tional Museum, contains gal- leries of paintings and sculpture, a museum of antiquities, &c. The picture gallery (open Tuesday and Friday, from 11 to 3) contains nearly 3,000 pictures. Among them are works of Murillo, Cor- regio. Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Carlo Doici, and other celebrated masters. The gallery of sculpture contains many valuable works : the gem of the collection being the " Sleeping Endymion," found at Tivoli, near Rome. The aristocratic quarter of Norrmalm, with the new parade- ground, its public gardens, and its fine wide and even streets, ranks as the handsomest part of the town. The most picturesque of the nine islets of Stockholm is the Sfidermalm, on the steep sides of which the houses rise in ter- raced rows to the summit, which is crowned by St. Catherine's Church. Numerous public gar- dens, summer palaces, and country- residences extend along the north- east shores of the lake, and on the margins of the Ladiigaard's Holm, the central portions of which present a picturesque blending of rocks, wooded heights, and romantic glens. On this side of the city lies the famous Djur- gaard, or Zoological Gardens, one of the finest public parks in Europe, which occupies a penin- sula two miles long, and one mile wide, whose natural beauties have been judiciously aided by art. Stone and wooden bridges con- nect together the various islands of the town. The streets of the older quarters are narrow, crooked, and ill- paved ; but in the better parts of the town there are fine straight streets, and capacious squares and open palaces, with well-built stone houses. In the Gustaf Adolfs Torg is an equestrian statue of Gustavus Adolphus. The four medallions on the pedestal represent Baner, Koenigsmark, Torstenson and Wrangel. A little to the west of this place, behind the palace of the Crown Prince, commences the Drottninggatan, or Queen Street, the finest in Stockholm. The vast Place of Charles XIII. contains a statue of that monarch. Stockholm is the seat of govern- ment, the residence of the sove- reign, and the place of assembly for the legislative chambers. It is the centre of the literary and social activity of the country, and has numerous scientific, artistic, and benevolent institutions. In the immediate vicinity of Stockholm are the Karlsberg Academy for naval and military cadets: and tlie Ulriksdal Hos- pital for invalided soldiers. Few cities can boast of more picturesque environs or finer pro- menades. EXCURSION FROM STOCK- HOLM TO UPSALA. ! PS ALA may be reached in a little over two hours by railway, the distance being 46 miles. Steamers leave Stockholm every morning for Upsala, and accom- plish the journey in about five hours, traversing on the way part of the beautiful Maelar Lake. The railway route leaving on the left the lake of Maelar crosses a fertile and undulating country passing Jetjva and several small stations before reaching Rosers- BERG (18 miles). The only ob- ject of interest here is the Chateau /6/^. DENMARK. Route leo.^STOCKHOLM TO GOTTENBURG. 695 of Rosersberg-, an old royal resi- dcncf burned in 1()7'.> and rebuilt and modernized. 'Ibe jiark is the larj^est in Sweden. I'assing three uninijjortant stations we reach (46 miles) Ui'SAi,.^. (Stads liotell, Hotel Upland.) Population, l'i,VOO. This ancient and beautii'ul city was for a lonjj time the capital of Sweden. It is built on both banks of tlie Fyrisji. 'I'lie western part, containing- the principal buildings, occupies a range of Iiigh ground overlooking an extensive plain. It is the seat of an archbishop who is primate of Sweden. Tlie great attraction of the city is the Cathe- dral wliich has been much damaged by restorations, but which is still a handsome struc- ture. It is in the Gothic style, and built of brick, was founded in i'258, and completed in Ikio. Jt is S30 feet long and 140 broad. It contains the tombs of Linnaeus, and of tiustavus V'asa and other Kings of Sweden. 'l"he Uxivtu- 8ITV, the chief institution of the kind in Sweden, was founded in 1477. It has 47 professors and is attended by about 1000 students. The library contains 150,000 volumes and 8,000 manuscripts. LiKNAEis, one of the greatest of naturalists was professor of botany here for thirty-seven years. He died at I'psala in 1778. His house may still be seen in the eastern quarter of tl>e city. The Castle was burned in 1702, and is now scarcely more than a ruin. Two mdes north is Old Upsala which was the seat of the Odin worship. The splendid temple and the sacred grove have dis- appeared. The old church is re- garded by some as the temple of Odin. It is the oldest ciiurch in Scandinavia. Near the church are three tumuli, one of which according to tradition contains the ashes of Odin, the second those of Thor, and the third those of Freyn, the wife of Odin. About four miles from Upsala are the famous Mora stones, where, in the middle ages the election and crowning of the Kings of Sweden took place (1060—1512.) Route 160. STOCKHOLM TO GOTTENBURG, BY THE GOTA CANAL. m^py H E distance is about 370 ^' Vr^ English miles. The n?; L;^^ GoTA Canai. is formed ^^-^--^c^ of rivers, lakes, and bays, united by seven artificial canals. The works were going on for 37 years, and were com- jdeted in 1832. Steamers, some- times towing vessels of 200 or 300 tons, have to pass 74 locks, and to rise to a height of 280 ft. to go from one lake to another. The route, as far as Siiderkiiping, is through the beautiful 31a;lar Lake. On leaving Stockholm, we pass the island of LitlUn-Kaggetiolm, and others. Passing through the basin of Bjiirkfjord, we arrive at Svderletge (see Route 159), and proceeding thence through a canal the strait of Sa/o-sutid between the islands of Longii and Safd,we reach Xykoping, a town of 4,835 inhabitants, situated on a bay of the Baltic. Quitting it, we pass by several small islands, some of them well wooded. On one is the castle of A'l/u Stegehorg, and on another the ruins of Slegebore, where John HI. was born in 1557 ; on the island of Morko is the castle of Horningsholm. At Mem, the Gota canal commences. Passing it, we presently reach S'uderk'uping,{llotel : Gdla-Kaiial), 696 Route 160.— STOCKHOLM TO GOTTENBURG. Denmark. population 1,691, a very ancient town, on the south bank of tlie canal. The church has two spires of great lightness of construction. We then cross the Lake Roxen, and see Liiikuping, a town of about 6,900 inhabitants, on its southern side. The Gothic Cathedral is next only in size to that at Upsala. The Gymnasium possesses a good library, a natural history collec- tion, a cabinet of antiquities, coins, medals, &c. In the vicinity is the spot where the battle of Stongebro was fought, when Sigismund was vanquished by Charles IX., and lost the crown of Sweden. Passing through the lake Roxen, we ascend into that of Boren, by means of fifteen locks, measuring altogether a height of more than 120 ft. Pass- ing Charlottenburg on the left, we enter the Motata Elf, and pro- ceed to Motala, where we observe some foundries, and iron works, the largest in Sweden. We next enter Lake Wettern. On the south is a hill called Omberg, on whose southern slope we see the ruins of the celebrated convent of Al- vastra^ founded in 1140. Lake Wettern is the largest but two in Scandinavia, measuring 90 miles in length, by about 15 in breadth. We pass on the left, the fortress of Carlsborg, and, on the right, the town of Rodesundy as we enter Lake Botten. We next pass tlie iron-works of Forsvik, and ascend, by a succession of locks, into the Lake Viken. We now approach the highest point of our route, which is marked by an obelisk. That part of the canal which we next enter, is called the West- Gota Canal. Passing Sjotorp, famed for its timber yards, we ascend gradually into Lake Wen- em, which, next to Ladoga and Onega, is the largest in Europe. Its length is 100 miles, and its breadth, at the widest part, 50 miles. We pass between the mainland and the island of Thorso, and make our way slowly through a channel very difficult to navigate in consequence of the number of slioals and small islands in the vicinity. The principal towns on the lake are, Chrhtinehamn, Carktud, Mariestad, Lidkoping, and Wenersborcr ( Hotel : Victoria), population 4,571. We now pass through the IVasbotten, the name given to a bay receding from the Wenern Lake, and entering the canal called Carl's-Graf, we reach the river Gota, and proceed to the cataracts of TroWnittan. These are four in number ; the highest being about 40 ft. Inclusive of the rapids, they extend about a mile, and the total fall of the river is about 125 ft. The descent of tlie canal is effected by nine locks ; three others are passed before reaching the village of Lilla Edet, at the foot of the first cataract. The G Ota-Elf gradually widens, and the hills recede as we ap- proach. GoTTENBUHG (370 miles), {Ho- tels : Gdta Kellare, Prince Carl), the second city of Sweden, with a population of about 54,000, was founded in 1611, by Gustavus Adolphus, and then built of wood. It was subjected to many- conflagrations till 1746, when it was rebuilt, for the most part, of stone. It is situated on the Gota, about 5 miles from its mouth, and is a place of great commercial importance. It consists of an up- per and lower town, the former intersected by numerous canals bordered by rows of fine trees, the latter picturesquely scattered over the rocky lieights. The harbour, which is very fine, is protected by three forts. It has no public buildings of any interest. Stea- mers leave weekly, or oftener, for Hull, Hamburg, Copenhagen, &c. DENMAiiK. Route 161.— STOCKHOLM TO GOTTEXBURG. 697 Route 161. STOCKHOLM TO GOTTEN- BURG BY RAILWAY. 284 miles ; ist class, M rdr. 95 ore ; 2iid, til rdr. 30 ore ^ Srd, 10 rdr. 65 ore. For the route as far as Falkii- ping (213 miles), see Route loy. jC^ p^ HE only place of conse- y^"' l?j^ quence is Aliitgsos (2.55 fnc '(.^ miles), a town of 1,807" ^^•^-^« inliabitants, situated near the Mjciren Lake. It is a place of some manufacturing im- portance. The country around is hilly, and very picturesque. GoTTENBURG (28-i miles). See preceding Route. TRAVELLLXG in NORWAY. Xorwaj- may be reached either by the steamers sailing directly from London, Hull, or Granton (near Edinburgh) to Bergen, Christiania, and other ports, or bv those who prefer to go by land, by way of Hamburg, Copenhagen, and Sweden. The latter route has been already described. (See Route 157.) Tourists intending to visit Nor- ■waj- and to make excursions from Christiania, the usual and most convenient starting point, should purchase the Hand-Book pub- lished annually in English, by .Mr. T. Bennet, of Christiania, which gives full and careful infonnation in relation to means of conveyance, stations, distances, expenses, .Sec. It may be had at Stanford's, 6 cS" 7, Charing Cross, London, of Mr. Bennet at Christiania, or of the booksellers in the large towns of Norway and Sweden. As stations are altered and new routes opened nearly every year, the Guide liooks ■which are published at long in- tervals are of no usi; to tourists. Tourists intending to make excur- sions from Christiania will do well to consult -Mr. Mennet in advance, and when their routes are decided uj)on they will do well to entrust the jiroviding of carrioles and other necessaries to his expe- rienced hands. Route 162. CHRISTIANIA TO STOCK- HOLM, By R.\iLW.\Y, VIA Arkiva and Carlstad. (The railway was opened throughout the entire distance from Christiania to Stockholm in ,Iune, 1871. This is now the most convenient route between the two cities. Distance, 400 miles. Time, 18 hours.) |^f=^,HRISTIANIA (483 'i^Jj^ miles), (Hoteh: Vic- tinia, Croioi Princess Louise (new), Scm- dinaviii, Britannia (new), popu- lation about 63,000. This, the cajiital of Norway, is situated on a plain at the northern extremity of the gulf to which it gives its name. It was founded in 1624 by Christian I\'., near the site of tlie ancient town of Osloe, which was completely destroyed by tire. The Churches of Christiania are not interesting. The princii)al build- ing is the Castle of' Agrrslnins, in which are deposited the crown jewels, and the archives of the kingdom. The New Palace, built 698 Route 162.— CHRISTIANIA TO STOCKHOLM. Denmark. on au eminence at the west end of the city, has a handsome portico. The UniversUy numbers about 800 students. Tliere is an in- teresting' Museum of Scandinavian antiquities; a Xulwiud GalLeni of Falntings ; anotlier collection called Konst Foreiiing ; a military college ; theatre ; the council hall of the Storthing, &c. The Bo- interesting town, for several years the terminus of the railway. Carl- STAD (145 miles), a town of 5,000 inhabitants on an island called Tingvalla, at the mouth of the river Klar. It has fine views over the beautiful Wenern Lake. The only noteworthy objects are the cathedral and a college which has a fine library, the Hotel de A^ille, CHRISTIANIA. tanic Garden contains a good col- lection of Arctic plants. Near the cemetery stands the Column of Liberty, erected in 1814. The more important stations on the route are as follows : — Lille- strom, 8 miles (see Route 164). Kongsvinger (45 miles), a town of about 800 inhabitants, formerly strongly fortified. After the union between Norway and Sweden, the fortifications were abandoned. The old citadel, on a commanding eminence, is a conspicuous object. Arvika (85 miles), a small and un- and a theatre. Christinehamm (195 miles), population 4,000. This town is situated at the north- eastern extremity of Wenern Lake. It is a thriving place, and is well built. An important fair is held here in INIarch of every year. Laxa (246 miles), where the line joins the railway from Stockholm to Malmoe and Copenhagen. The remainder of the route is described in Route 159. DENMARK. Route 163.— CHRISTIAMA TO ClIRISTIANSAXD. 619 Route 163. CHRISTIAMA TO CHRIS- TIANSAND. (The distance is about 227 miles. Steamers twice a week. Tiie route described is tiiat by the post road.) RA:MMEX (Hotels: de Sciiiuliiunie, d'Am^le- terre), popula. l'_',6oO. is situated at the mouth ot'the river of that name, in a bay of the fjord of Christiania. It reallj' consists of tliree villages, Bragniis, Strbmsoe and Tang-en ; it carries on a considerable trade in limber. A road turns off, on the right, to Konosbkug and BhRGLN. We go on to Ilotme- sirund, ]>leasantl\- situated near the the sea-sliore, with lofty rocks towering above it. A little to the west of h iild]nia is Tonsberc, a commercial town of i^,874 inha- bitants, the most ancient in Nor- •way. Aear it stands the old Castle of Jarlsbergi Laiini^, population 4,944, si- tuated at theinoutli of the Louven, possesses several forges, a cannon foundry, and extensive ware- houses. Some miles to the west, on the other side of the port, is Frederiksvurn, a fortified place of 1,174 inliabitants. The Aorwe- g:ian fleet anchors under the shelter of its guns. The steamers from Christiania touch at the vil- lage of Sandoesuiid, near Frede- riksvarn. Porsgnntd, a place of about 2,500 inhabitants, is situated be- tween two lakes, and divided into two parts, one of which is on wi island. We leave on the right the road to Hergen, and proceed along thi- left bank of tiie i^angtl- sund to Bieci-^, a busy town of 2,813 inhabitants. \\ <■ cross the Langiisund, by a ferry-boat, and go on to Arendal {Hotel: Sandberg), population 4,4alj, pleasantly si- tuated upon several small islands, and built upon piles. It is near the mouth of the \id-Elv, on the edge of a very deep bay. The ships come close up to the quays. Arendal [tossesses extensive ship- yards, and exports great quanti- ties of timber and iron. A road to Bergen turns off on the right. Passing Luiidcig and host'ul we keep along the eastern shore of a very picturesque bay and reach CiiuisTi.vNSAND (227 miles). (Hotels: Britannia, Scandinavie, Enist's), pojiulation 11,500. This is the most imj)ortant town in the south of Norway. It is situated on the Topdals-ljord, at the mouth of the river Torrisdal. It covers a great extent of ground in con- se([uence of the numerous gardens comprised within the town. The Cathedral is a peculiar looking old building, containing pews furnished with windows, so that the occupants may seclude them- selves from the rest of the con- gregation. On the right bank of the Torrisdal is the Church of Oddernas, which contains some old tomb-stones, and a Runic stone of the 11th century. Plea- sant excursions may be made up the valley of the Torrisdal. Steamers go frequently to Got- tenburg, Bergen, and Ilanmier- fest, Hull and Loudon. 700 Route 164.— CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN. Denmark. Route 164. CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN, BY EIDVOLD, AND THE FILLEFJELD. The distance is 340 miles ; we proceed to Eidvold,on Lake Mjo- sen, by railway, 43 miles ; 1st class, 144scA.; 2nd, 96sch.; 3rd, 60sch. EAVING Christiania we reach Lillestrom (8 miles), (a branch goes to Stockholm.) Passing Fhtstadbro (36 miles), wliere the line is carried tlirough the hills by two tunnels, we reach Eid.fvold (43 miles). We now embark on the steamer which traverses Lake MjiJsen. This lake is about72 miles long. The eastern shore is higher than the other, and indented with numerous fjords. The hills at the southern extrem ity are low, and are covered with well cultivated fields; those at the northern end are lofty, and remind the traveller of the scenery of some of the Swiss lakes. The lake is fed by numerous tor- rents, the largest of which flows out of a lake" in the DovreQeld. Some miles from Minde, we see in the distance tlie ruins of the Ca- thedral of Stor-Hammer, a town burnt by the Swedes in the 16th century. Passing the island of Helgo, we see an old castle built by Hako IV. and an arsenal. We disembark at Gjovig (good hotel) and the re- mainder of the journey is made by carriole. From Gjovig to Mustad, is 1^ N. miles, over an excellent road ; the scenery picturesque. Mustad to Lien, ij N. mile. Lien to Skoien, 1| N. miles. (At this station the route by land from Christiania joins our route). A first-rate station, one of the clean- est in Norway. Skoien to Tomlevolden, 1| N. miles, good road, good station, and low charges. A little beyond Tomlevolden, the road attains a great height, aftbrding beautiful views. The river is crossed about 4 English miles from Tomlevolden, by a new bridge. The road taken by the telegraph poles is not to be followed here. Bradbury, in his excellent " Norway : its Fjords, Fjelds and Fosses," thus speaks of the re- mainder of our route — " I must now say, that from Tomlevolden to Bergen lies one of the most strikingly grand journeys it has ever been my fortune to make. In no other land have I ever beheld such a succession of grand pic- tures. For the entire distance, there is a continuous series of savage landscapes, solemnly grand lakes, bold defiant mountains, tor- rents and waterfalls of the most beautiful description and endless variety. It would positively be absurd to try to convey any idea of the sights which present them- selves on this journey." Grav- dalen, If miles, a good station, and extremely cheap. Tlie view is beautiful. This hill separates the Etnadal from the Baegna valley. Freydenlund, l|mile. Fageruoes. 1^ mile. Good road, beautiful scenery. A day or two may be agreeably spent here in fishing. The lake abounds in trout. Wild duck are also plentiful. Reien, 1| miles. Road on tliis station is rougl). The scenery is grand, the road skirting several lakes. Stee, li miles. The scenery constantly becomes grander, more lakes are passed, and views are had of the Fille Fjeld range, crowned with snow. A stop is sometimes made DENMAEK. Route 16i.—CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN. 701 here by huntsmen to shoot bear and reindeer. Oiloe (Eyelo) 1 mile. Tune, J mile, fair station. Liindlord s])i'uks Knujlish. The road from this to the next station is a splendid new one, following the windings of the Lille Mjosen, at times cut out of the almost per- pendicular cliffs. The scenery is very fine. Shogstud, IJ miles, a bad station, at the foot of the Fille Fjeld. A good road ascends to Nystuan, 1 mile, on the top of the Fille Fjdd, an excellent sta- tion. By ascending the hill to the right of the road over the station, an hour's climb, and going a little way over the Fjeld, a fine view may be had of the Jotun moun- tains, 3 N. miles distant, and of several glaciers. Mariatiie/i, li miles. This stage is over the plateau of the Fille Fjeld, an ex- cellent road, following the wind- ings of the river. The inn at Maristuen is good. Hoeg, 1 mile. Scenery along the Laerdal river exceedingly fine. The river is 200 ft. below the road, and is bordered on each side by precipices of enor- mous height. Between this and the next station lies a new and curious zig-zag road, called Vind- hellen. Husiim, ^ mile, a clean station. An excellent road up and down a hill called Saeltunaasen, leads to Blaaflaten, 1| mile. The inn is not good. L0ERDA1.SOREN, 1 mile, is a telegraphic station. The inn (Peterson's), is excellent. Hence to Gudvangen our route is over the Sogne Fjord by steamer. The author of the book above quoted says of this part of our route, " The scenery on the journey from Laerdal to tiudvangen is grand beyond all conception, and never have L beheld in any otiier country sights that so impressed me with the awe-inspiring ma- jesty of nature as did these on this journey. We left Laerdal- siiren at eight o'clock, and for four and a half hours were sailing down the sublime fjord, this part of which is unquestionably the finest piece of fjord scenery in JS'orway. During the journey we passed some thirty waterfalls or cascades, falling in an endless variety of graceful shapes from various altitudes down the enor- mous mountains, which form the sides of this truly grand fjord. These mountains rise almost per- Eendicular 4,000 or .i,000 feet igh from the surface of the fjord, which is the 'sea-level.' Their summits were crowned with snow and ice, and stood out sharp and clear against the bright blue sky — for it was a day long to be re- membered for its serenity and beauty — and their gigantic forms from base to peak stood deep re- flected in the calm, clear fjord water, perfect as in a mirror. Never have 1 witnessed so perfect a reflection. It was impossible in many parts to discern, even with the aid of our glass, where the land and water joined. At the junction of the Aurlands and Nce- roens fjords the scenery defies de- scription. Here an ami)huheatre of m/ghty mountains rises up wards of 4,000 feet sheer from the silent fjord, and the solemn grandeur wliicli this sight im])oses is quite over])owering. \o storm can enter here ; all is still as death ; not a sound is heard; even the water- falls which here present themselves appeartohanginsilence all around. We could think of no j)lace that would compare with this most wonderful sight." At GrnvANGEN carrioles are again taken. The station is ex- cellent. J5ehind the station is the Ke.-lfos, a fall of 2,000 feet. The body of water is small, but it is a fine sight. After leaving Gud- 702 Route \6^.— CHRISTIAN I A TO BERGEN. Denmark, vangen the river is crossed, and the road enters the wonderful val- ley of Noerodalen. The moun- tains rise 4,000 feet nearly per- pendicularly on each side of the Noerofjord, leaving just room for the road and the river. The wild- ness and grandeur of the scenery defies description. Stalhoim, 1^ miles. Bad station. Vinge, 1 mile. Also a bad station. Tvinde, ^ mile. A bad station, near which is the Tvindefos. Vossevangem, 1 mile. Fleischers inn here is excellent. Herr F. speaks Eng- lish well. The house is just be- yond the village by the side of the lake. Vassenden 1| miles. Sta- tion not good. It IS at the head of Vassenden lake, celebrated for trout. An excellent road along the lake brings us to Eide j mile. Station hotel excellent. The town is beautifully situated at the end of one of the forks of the celebrated Hardanger Fjord, which abounds in fine scenery. Steamers to lier^ gen and to the various landing places on the Fjord. The usual course is to take steamer to Utne, down the Sor Fjord to Lofthuus and Odde and thence to the Skjaeggedalfos. The distance to Odde is made in a little over four hours. After touching at Utne, which is thought to resemble Belaggio on Lake Como in its position, the Sor Fjord is entered. For 20 English miles, to Odde the scenery is of the grandest descrip- tion. On the right are seen the glaciers of the Folge Fond, and watercourses are seen in many places running down the sides of the mountains for 2,000 feet. Odde (excellent inn). Should the inn be full, very good quarters and food may be had at the Lens- mand's. The innkeeper's son, about 17 years old, is a very in- telligent guide to the Skjxggedal- fos, and across the Folge Fond to Overhuus ; the latter is a most laborious excursion, and the des- cent particularly bad ; the road to Bondhuus direct is better. Good trout fishing may be had by cross- ing the lake about 1;^ English miles behind the hotel, and working un the stream. " The SkjfPggedalfos, or more properly the Ringedalfos, is a very fine fall, and should on no account be missed. There is an hour and a half's boating from Odde to Tyssedal, and thence about ten hours walking and boating to the fall and back to Tyssedal, viz. three hours' ascent to a farm called Skjaeggedal, then two hours boat across a splendid lake to the fall. The walking on return being on a descent takes rather less time. Hard day's work to and from, but still accessible for ladies. Some American gentlemen have con- sidered it very nearly if not quite as well worth a visit as the falls of Niagara, though very different in appearance. Observe the Tysses- tringene on the way to it. This day's excursion is considered to be the best of any that can be made inthe Hardanger Fjord.'' — Be/met. The Laathefos can be visited from Odde, by walking twenty minutes, boat three-quarters of an hour, and carriole forty minutes, or walk an hour and a half. There are three fine waterfalls in sight of one another, the Laathefos, the Espelandsfos, and the Hildalfos. On Lake Sandven (the three- quarters' hour boating) there is a very fine view of the Folge Fond between the hills. The road is also very fine beyond the Laathefos. The Buerbrae is a very beautiful glacier, and to go thither and back from Odde occupies only five or six hours. This as well as the Laathefos may be seen in the same excursion, but two days should be given to them, if possible. DFNMARK. Route IGi.—CHRISTIAXIA TO nERGKX. 703 From I'tno, wlirre there is an excellent inn, sail or row boats may be hired for Kidford (time four or five hours). This place is called also A'ik, hut is best known by the former name. From Kidford an excursion may be made in ten to twelve hours to the celebrated \'i>ring Fos, distant 11 English miles. Mr. Bennet says, "The best way to go from \'ik to the V'oring- fos is to engage a guide, and agree ■with him to ferry you across the lake, and, if a horse be required, to send a ' forbud' the previous evening to Sa-bii on the oi)posite side of the lake, so that tliere may be no delaj'. In this way die whole distance may be made for Sp. 1 for the guide, including the ferrying across, and Sp. 1 for the horse, but if you like to ferry across to Sa^bii, (J mile by water, i mile by land, but not a post station) and there engage a guide and horse, you may perhaps get them both for Sp. 1, but you run the risk of being detained at least an hour for the horse. It takes about eight to ten hours to go from \'ik to the fall and return. There is a walk of about J- A. mile at firstto the lake, crossing which to Sajbb takes an hour; then there is 1 N. mile to walk, the first part of the way along a rough path, the last part up a very steep zig- zag until the plateau of the moun- tain is reached. The fall is about an English mile across the plateau. An excellent front view of the Voringfos can be obtained by crossing the river above the fall by a new bridge and looking over the edge of the precipice, which is opposite the fall. The additional walk is about li English mile thither, and the same back." Mr. liradbury thus sjjeaks of the Vriringfos : " It was worth a month's such travelling, as we had undergone to see so grand a sight. I iiave seen most of the waterfalls in Europe that are Worth seeing, but this far exceeds tliem all, and must mi(|uestionably be the finest fall in Euro])e. The river forms a torrent for some distance befori' it reaches the fall, when finally it shoots out of the rocky chasm and falls 900 feet into the deep rocky basin or am- phitheatre of perpendicular cliffs which surround it. 'Ihere are two projecting points from whence to look down upon the fall. At each a single tree of stunted growth, blasted and tempest-torn, yet finnly rooted in the fissure of the rock, o'erhangs the precipice ; against either of these you place your left hand firmly, whilst the guide clings strongly to your ex- tended rigiit arm, [est dizziness should overtake you. This pre- caution is absolutely necessary when 30U peer down some 1100 feet from the naiTow jutting point on which you stand.'' The steamers after leaving Utne, usually- stop for the night at Os- tenso. Leaving the latter {)lace at 4 A. M. it reaches, in one hour, Jondal; hence to Bergen the scenery is very fine, many water- Aills being seen on the way — stops are made at Rosendal, IJimmels- vig, Teriien (whence there are steamers to Stavanger). After winding among numerous islands the steamer reaches Bkrgkn. (Hoteh : Scandi- vavian, Holdt.i, Martens), popu- lation y8,200. This town, situ- ated on the North Sea, was founded in 1069 by the King Olaf-Kyrre, as the capital of the kingdom". It is a more important place, in re- spect of commerce, than Chns- tiania,and its spacious port always contains several hundred vessels. Owing to the Gulf Stream the cli- mate along the west coast of Nor- 704 Route lev.— CHRISTIAMA TO BERGEN. Denmark. way is milder tlian in other parts in the same latitude. From this cause the port of Berg-en is rarely frozen, while that of St. Petersburg, si- tuated half a degree further to the south, is for some months wholly inaccessible. The industry of Bergen is confined to the cod and herring fisheries. Enormous quantities of both kinds of fish and of cod-liver oil are exported to various parts of Europe. The most ancient church is that of St. Mary, built in the 12th cen- tury. N either the Cathedral nor any of the other churches are worth visiting. The Konst-Fore- ning (Art-Union), attached to the Cathedral school, contains some good pictures. The Museum com- prises a rich collection of Scandi- navian antiquities, including se- pulchral urns, weapons. Runic inscriptions, &c. ; a cabinet of natural history, and another of medals ; there are also some pic- tures, but they are of little merit. Steamers at frecjuent intervals to Hull and London. E.OUTE 165. BERGEN TO HAMMER- FEST (by Steamer). 1,600 miles; fare, 25 species. E leave the ijord of Bergen by the chan- nel which separates the island of Ask from that of Stor Sartor, and pass on the right numerous small, dark- coloured islands, almost destitute of vegetation. We also pass the mouths of the Scigne-fjord and Ford-fjord, and skirt the great island of Bremangerland. The promontory of Stadland, rising to a height of more tlian 900 ft., and covered over with almost per- pendicular peaks, appears on the right. Passing on the left the fjord of Romsdal, we reach Molde, a town of 1,454 inhabitants, situ- ated in a fjord of the same name. Doubling the promontory of Molde, and passing the island of Akerne, we enter the port of Christiansund (395 miles), which is shut in by three islands, named respectively Kirkeland, Nord- land, and Inland, on which the town is built. Its population is estimated at 4,290. Its chief trade is the drying and exportation of cod-fish. We pass on the left the islands of Smolen and Hitteren before entering the fjord of DRONTHEIMOrTRONDHJEM (550 miles). Hotels : d'Angleterre, Belle Vue), population 16,250. This was the ancient capital of Nor- way, founded in 997 by King Olaf Trygvason on the site of the ancient city of Nidaros. It is situated at the mouth of the Nid. The principal edifice is the Gothic Cathedral, founded in 1180, now partly in ruins. The choir is octagonal and surmounted by a modern dome. Over the altar is a cast of the beautiful statue of the Saviour, by Thorwaldsen, surrounded by those of the twelve Apostles. In accordance with the Constitution of 1814, the Kings of Norway are crowned in this Cathedral. The Museum comprises a library and collections of Scandinavian anti- quities, armour, and weapons, minerals, native birds, &c. The Arsenal, on the left bank of the Nid, was the old palace of the Norwegian Kings. The ancient throne is still to be seen. Near the Custom-house is the Orething, where the people used to as- semble to elect their king. The ruins of an old fortress are seen on a hill above the town. The DESMAHK. Route U,5.— BERG i:\ TO IIAMMERFEST. 705 cliief exports are drii'd cod, tim- ber, and co])j)er fVoin the neifj-li- bouring' mini's of Kiiraas. Many ships are built at Druntheim. Excursions may be made to the island and fortress of Minikhnliny the ancient state ])rison, described by X'ictor lingo in his " llmi d' Islauiie,'' where the crown and crown jewels are jireserved; also to the cataracts of Lierfossen. land, situated at the 69" of north latitude, on a j)romontory at tlie oi)ening of the Salien-fjnrd. 'J"he inhahilants employ themselves in the cod-lisiiery, among the islands of Loftbden. More than 300 fishing- boats, manned by upwards of 16,000 hands, are engaged in thisoccu]Kttion. Theaveragi-ofthe annual exportation is Ki, 000,000 fish, and 20,000 barrels of oil. BtRCLN. Leaving Drontheim, we pass the gulf of Folden, into which the river Namsen empties itself. Tiiis stream abounds with salmon. We pass the Arctic Circle on reaching the islands of Trauen, one of which forms a lofty arch, beneath whicli a ship might pass. Near it is a rock called Hesimendson (the Horseman), from its resem- blance to a horse and its rider. The first place of any importance at which we touch is JJoiio, the caj)ital of the province of Nord- The scenery in the neighbour- hood IS singularly wild ; diversified by peaks, ravines, partly filled with snow, and black jirecipices, witii mountains rising above them. Passing through the I'e.vf Fjord, which lies between the Loftbden islands and the mainland, we reach Tromsor, jiopulation 1?,958, situ- ated on an island in the middle of the fjord that bears its name. It is a ]dace of consid. Table traffic. Its port is greatly freciuented by Russian ships from Arcliangel and Y V 706 Route 165.— BERGEN TO HAMMERFEST. Denmark. the White Sea, which bring car- goes of corn, and return laden with salt cod. The steamer usually stays a day at Tromsoe. Hammerfest, population 1,125, is the most northerly town in Europe. It is situated at 70° 49' north latitude. Owing to the prevalence of south-west winds, and the influence of the Gulf Stream, the fjords here are seldom frozen, and all through the winter the inhabitants carry on the whale-fishery, and the pursuit of the walrus and seal ; also that of the reindeer and the eider-duck. There are several tribes ot Lap- landers settled in the vicinity of Hammerfest. The North Cape, on the island of Mangeroe, 90 miles distant, rises about 730 ft. above the sea; it can be reached by steamer from Hammerfest to Gjaesvaer, from which latter place it may be reached in tliree hours, partly by boat. Good accommodation may be had at Herr Lemmings at Gjaesvaer. Bayard Taylor, who visited the North Cape atmidniglit, describes the scene as follows, " The head- lands of this deeply indented coast, the capes of the Laxe and Porsanger Fjords and of Mangeroe lay around us in different degrees of distance, but all with foreheads touched with supernatural glory. Far to the north-east was Nord- kyn, the most northern point of the mainland of Europe, gleam- ing rosily and faint in the full beams of the sun, and just as our watches denoted midnight, the north appeared to the westward, a long line of purple bluff, pre- senting a vertical front of 900 ft. in height to the Polar Ocean. JMidway between these two mag- nificent headlands stood the Mid- night Sun shining on us with subdued fires, and with the gor- geous colouring of an hour for which we have no name, since it is neither sunrise nor sunset, but the blended loveliness of both, but shining at the same moment in the heat and splendour of noonday on the Pacific isles." INDEX. 'AR, source of tlie, o72. Aar, valley of the, 394. Aarau, 354. Abclard and Heloise, tomb of, '247. Abbey Craig, 86. Abbave de Quincy, 291. Abbeville, 207. Abbotsford, 99. Aberdeen, 94. Abergeldie Castle, 95. Abo, 685. Aboj-ne, 95. Abrantes, 665. Achsenberg, the, 360. Acquabona, 561. Acton, 110, 169. Addington Park, 200. Adeltingen, 3-19. Adelsberg, 505. Adige, the, 481. .-Etna, Mount, 630. Affoltern, 354. Agde, 317. Agen, 316. Agliadoe House, 35. Aghadoe ruins, 35. Agnano, lake of, 622. Aguilar, 656. Aibling, 482. Aiguebelle, 290. Aiguille d' Argenti^re, 384. Aiguille du Dru, 384. Aiguille du Goute, 381. Aiguilles Rouges, 386. Aiguille de Varens, 381. Ailsa Craig, 67. Airds, 81. ALrev Force, 191. Airthrey, 86. Airolo, 363. Aix-la-Chajjelle, 273. Aix-les-}3ains, 289. Alassio, 306. Albano, 600. Albacete, 613. Albegna station, 561. Albenga, 306. Albinen, 396. Albisola, 307. Alcala d(! Henares, 610. Alcantarilla, 64-4. Alcazar de San Juan, 613, 647. Aldershott Cainj), 141. Aldourie House, 83. Aletsch-horner, 379. Alexandrov, 684. Algabi, gallery of, 380. Alhama, 640. Alicante, 643. Alingsiis, 697. Allan Bank, 190. Allee Verte, 320. Alio way Kirk, 66. Almansa, 643. Almodovar, 649. Almond Water, 84. Alnwick, 168. 708 INDEX. Alnwick Castle, 167. Alost, 325. Alp See, 478. Alpl'ach Cascade, 370. Alpnach, 359, 366.^ Alps, Styrian, 484. Alsuasa, 633. Altkirch, 286. Altona, 412. Altorf, 360. Alt-Siders, 378. Altstad, 359. Alum Bay, 143. Amaden, 664. Ambergate Junction, 185. Amberieux, 287. Ambleside, 190. Ambras, Castle of, 480. Amiens, 207. Ampliitheatre — See Aries, Nice, j\ imes, Pompeii, Rome, Treves, Verona. AmselgTund, the, 422. Amsteg, 361. Amstetten, 484. Amsterdam, 338. Ancy le Franc, 292. Andeer, 352. Anderaiatt, 362. Anderaach, 443. Andover, 178. Andover Road Station, 141. Andujar, 648. Ang-erraunde, 424. Angouleme, 311. Annan, 64. Annemasse, 381. Anniviers, valley of, 378. Ans, 331. Ansedonia, 562. Antibes, 299. Antonopol, 672. Antrim, 49. Antwerp, 321. Aosta, 389. Apolda, 426. Apollinarisberg, 445. Apperley, 186. Appenweier, 474. Appin House, 81. Appuldurcombe, 143. Aranjuez, 641. Arc et Senans, 287. Archeria, 644. A rcole, 533. Ardgour, 82. Ardocli I louse, 90. Ardrisbaig, 76. Ardrossan, 65. Ardtornish Castle, 77. Arendal, 699. Arenfels, 443. Arenys, 663. Arenzana, 307. Arezzo, 563. Argentiere, 386. Aries, 294. Arlon, 331 . Arma, 306. Arnheim, 341. Arnual, 278. Arona, 365. Arqua, 555. Arras, 267. Arrochar Hills, 89. Ars-sur-Moselle, 277. Artb, 357. Arve, the, 381. Arvika, 698. Aschatt'enburg, 453. Ascona, 365. Ashbourne Hall, 188. Ashby-de-la-Zouch, 184. Ashtbrd Junction, 199. Assisi, 566. Assmausliau.sen, 434. Attila's Castle, 395. Auchindown Palace, 81. Auchinleck, 63. Auchnacarry, 83. Auchterarder, 90. Audley End, 192. Auer, 481. Auerbacb, 471. Auerbach's Keller, 4l4. Auerstadt, 426. Augsburg, 461. Augst, 346. . Aurelian Wall, 563. Aussig, 501. Aveiro, 668. Avernus, lake of, 623. Aviemore, 92. Avigliana, 512. IXDEX. 709 Avignon, 294. Avila, 631. Ax('(lf,'t', 188. Ayr, 6o. Aytouii, 102. 15ab.'lsherg, Castle of, 409. JJacharacli, 437. liachtfl .Mount, 350. IJadajos, 664. Ikuh-n, 354, 49i?, 503. Baden Baden, 474. Nl'v\' Schloss, torture cliam- ber, 474. Baeza, 648. liau:ni di Trajano, 362. Baia-, 6'23. Ball)rig^an, 46. lialdiuni. Pass of, 566. BAle, '286, 346, 476. Ballucliuhsh, 79. 15allat.'r, 95. Ballatrich, 95. Ballinasloe, 54. Balloclinn le, 62. Ballocb ("astle, 90. Ballycastle, 53. Ballymena, 49. Bahnoral Castle, 95. Bamberj;, 455. Baniboroutrh Castle, 168. Banbury, 151. Bancbory, 95. Bani;for,'lll. Bannavie, 82. Bannock burn, 85. Barberine, Cascade de la, 386. Barcelona, 661. B:irdowieck, 410. B;irenberg, Castle of, 352. Bareiistein, tbe, 421. Bai--le-Duc, 282. Bar-sur-Aube, 286. Basiiii^stoke, 141. Bastei, tbe, 422. Battau^lia, .556. ]}atb,"l7(). liattle, 200. Baumg^arlen, 501. Bauscbowiiz, 5'Ji. Baveno, 330. Baxter Park, 97. Bayeux, 263. Bayonne, .■>15. JJayerbacb, Fall of, 350. Bazeilles, 280. Bealan Duine, 88. Beattock, 60. Beaup^ency, 309. Be uilieu,"l39, 301. Beaumont le lio;rer, 26k Beaune, 292. Beaureufard Castle, 378. Beautiran, 316. Bebra Junction, 428. Beckiwiried, 359. Bedford, 183. Belles, 316. Beitli, 62. Belaia, 672. Belalcazar, 664. Belfast, 47. Belford, 168. Belfort, 286. Belgium, 319. BelJag-io, 528, 529. Bellerive, 376. Bellegarde, 288. Bellinzona, 364. Belses, 103. Belt, tbe (ireat, 689. Belt, tbe Little, 689. Bel voir Castle, 163. Benalder, 92. Betulorf, 442. Benicarlo, 660. Benledi, 87. Bensbeim, 471. Benvenue, 88. Ben Cruacban, 82. Ben I.awers, 82. Ben I.onioncl, 82. Ben More, 82. Ben \evis, 82. Ben Rbydding, 186. Ben Vane, 89. }5en Voirlocb, 89. Ben ^^'yvis, 93. Berard," valley of, 386. Beraun, 5l)2. Bergamo, 530. Bergedorf, 424. Berg Isel, 480. 10 INDEX. Bergen, 703. Berkeley, 176. Berlin, 401. Public buildings, 402. Palaces, 403. Statues, 404. Museums, 405. History, 406. Bernard, Great St., 388. Bernard, Hospice, 388. Bernardin Pass, 352. Bernau, 424. Bernay, 264. Berne, 391. Bernese Alps, 354. Berry Ponieroy Castle, 181. Berwick-on- Tweed, 168. Beseno, Castle of, 481. Beziers, 317. Bialystock, 683. Hianca, 613. Biarritz, 315. Biebricb, 433, 451. Bielagrund, 423. Bielefeld, 399. Biella, 514. Bienne, 393. Bienne, Lake of, 393. Bierset Castle, 330. Bilton, 168. Bilton Hall, 114. Bingen, 279, 435. Biugerbriick, 278, 435. Bingerlocb, the, 435. Birmini^ham, 161. Bischofsheim, 449. Bishopstuke, 139. Blackford, 90. Blackrock, 31. Blackrock Castle, 31. Black Forest, 286, 353. Black Gang Chine, 143. Black Lough, 35. Black Valfey, 35. Blair Athol, 92. Blaize, St., 393. Blankenberghe, 329. Blanquetaque, 207. Blarney Castle, 32. Blarney Stone, 32. Blenheim Palace, 150, Blesme, 282. Bletchingley 'I'unnel, 199. Blevio, 529. Blois, 309. Bloksberg, the, 508. Blonay, Castle of, 376. Blumlis Alp, 391. Bobadilla, 656. Bocastle, valley of, 87. Bodenbach, 501. Bodenheim, 449. Bodio, 363. Bodo, 702. Boitzenburg, 424. Bologna, 546. Bologovo, 678. Bolton Priory, 186. 15onap3rte, '1 omb of, 242. Bonchurch, 143. Bondgate, the. 168. Bond Hill, 169. Bonn, 447. Bonneville, 381. Bonnington Linn, 59. Boosenburg, the, 434. Boppart, 439. Bordeaux, 312. Bordighera, 305. Borghetto, 567. Borgund, 699. Bornhofen, 439. Borromean 1 slands, 365. Borrowdale, 191 . Borsdorf, 415. Borthwick Castle, 98. Bose Stein, 368. Botallack, 183. Bothwell Castle, 59. Botzen, 481. Boughton House, 184. Boulogne, 206. Boulou, 663. Bourg, 287. Bourges, 309. Bouveret, 377. Bouvernier, 387. Bowling, 58. Bowness, 189. Box, 170. Bradford, 186. Bradgate Park, 184. Brading, 142. Braine le Comte, 265. INDEX. 11 Bramans, 290. Brancliier, St., 387. linuid, the, 42<2. Hniiidcnburo^, 401 . Urnndizzo, M-t. Brandon's (Lord), Cottage, 35. Branksome Castle, 103. Mranncnburo:, 479. Branzoll, 481. Braunsberg, 4;i0. Braxted Park, 196. Breithorn, 379. Bremen, 409. Bremerhafen, 410. Brentwood, 196. Brescia, 530. Brest, 261. Bretten, 458. Brevent, the, 386. Brevig, 698. Brey, 4-10. Brickeen, Isle of, 36. Bridge of Allan, 86. Bridge of Balgownie, 94. Bridge of Dun, 94. Bridge of Turk, 88. Brieg, 379. Brienz. 366. Brig o Doon, 67. Brighton, 201. J3ristol, 171. i5ristt>nstock, the, 361. 15ritannia Tubular Bridge, 111. Brixen, 481. Brixlegg, 479. J5roadstairs, 198. Brocard, 387. Brocken, the, 401. Brocket Hall, 162. Broek, 340. 15roniberg, 430. Brougham Hall, 106. Broxbourne, 192. Bruar, Falls of, 92. Jiruciisal, 472. iiruck, 504. Bruges, 327. Brugg, 354. Briiiiig Pass, 366. Briinn, 493. J5runnen, 359. Brunoy, 291. Brunswick, 400. Bruree, 4^1. Brussels, 265. Bubenz, 501. B lichen, 424. Biickeburg, 399. Buda, 508. Bueil, 264. iiuet, the, 386. Bukten, 354. Burg, 401. Burgdorf, 392, 410. Biirgenstock, the, 359. Burgess Hill, 201. Burgos, 633. Burns, Robert, birthplace of, 66. Burns, Robert, his Mausoleum, 64. Bums' .Monument, 66. Bury Lane, 108. Busalla, 526. Bushey Park, 135. Busigny, "269. Bussignv Junction, 390. Bushmills, 49. Bussoleno, 512. Butterniere, 191. Buttevaiit, 39. Butzhach, 452. i5uxton, 188. Byron, Lord, his birth-place, 132. Cadenabbia, 529. Cadiz, 654. Caen, 264. Caerleon, 172. Caerphilly, 173. Calais, 205. Calanda, the, 351. Calas[)arra, (iH. Calatayud, 64). Calcum, 399. Caldiero, 533. Callander, 87. Galliano, 481. Cambridge, 192. Cambuskenneth Abbey, 86. Canibusmore, 87. Cambuswallace, 86. Camden Town, 115. Camerlata, 527. Camp, 87. Camperdown House, 96. 712 INDEX. Campsie Hills, ?6. Cam}isie Linn, 9.S. Cancello, 615. C'annero, Castelli di, 36.5. Cannes, 298. Cannstatt, 459. Canterbury, 197. Camu, 527. Capo di Noli, .306. Capri, 616, 627. Capua, 615. Capuzinerberg-, 483. Caiantuoliill, 39. Carberry Hill, 101. Carcassonne, 317. Cardiff, 173. Car-ill, 93. Carignano, Hills of, 523. Carisbrook, 142. Carisbrook Castle, 142. Carlisle, 106. Carlow, 54. Carlsbad, 502. Carlsborg-, Fortress of, 695. Carlsriilie, 472. Carlstad, 698. Carluke, 60. Carmoua, 649. Carpatbian Mountains, 492. Carrickferg'us, 53. Carrickfergiis Junction, 49. Carrick a Kede, 52. Carron Bridge, 63. Carstairs Junction, 60. Cartbagena, 645. CasalnuoYO, 615. Cassano, 530. Cassel, 453. Castejon, 639. Castel, 433. Castelbarco, Castle of, 481. Castel Fiorentino, 613. Castle Gandolio, 601. Castellamare, 627. Castello Gavone, 306. Castellon de la Plana, 660. Castelnaudary, 317. Castel Nuovo, 531. Castillejo, 641. Castlengg, 191. Castle of Batie, 290. Castle Huntley, 96. Castle of Rougemont, 180. Castle Urquliart, 83. Castuera, 664. Cat, The, 438. Catajo, 556. Catania, 6':i9. Cattle Pass, 89. Caub, 437. Cave Hill, 48. Cavour Canal, 514. Ceccano, 615. Cecina, 561. Celle, 410. Ceprano, 615. Cergues, St., 390. Cernobbio, 529. Certaldo, 61.3. Certosa, 527. Cesto, 548. Cette, 317. Cbalons sur Marne, 282. Clitilons sur Saone, 292. Cham, 503. Chambery, 289. Cliamouni, 382. Chamouni, Mont Brevent, Aiguilles Rouges, Mont Blanc, Montanvert, Charmoz, Glacier des Bois, 382; JMer de Glace, Chapeau, tlie Jardin, Seracs de Talefre, 383; Glacier des Bos- sons, Flegere, les Pres, Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Dru, d' Ar- gentiere, 384; Col de Balme, Grand Mulets, 385; Mont Bre- vent, 385. Champagney, 286. Chamiimont, Castle of, 392; ChantiUv, 207. Chard, 179. Charenton, 291. Charleroi, 269. Charleville, 59. Charlottenburg, 406. Charnwood Forest, 184. Chartres, 262. Chartreuse, La Grande, 289. Char Lake, 35. C basse, 293. Chasseral, the, 393. Chateaubourg, 294. Chateau Bayard, 290. IXDKX. 713 fliitrau (b- r.izv, ei2. Cliat.-au cJi' Cliatillon, 288. Cliateaii de Faucii^iiy, 381. Cliat.'au dc Gaillard", 21'J. Chiitt'au (If Hautvilli!, :)7G. Chateau dc Miolans, 'JW. Clliati'au dc .Moiitr.sijuifu, ;>1() ('liati'au di> IMorrifx, 381. Cliatrau (1(1 l'raiii;ias, 37 1. Chat.-au dt> Villctti', 268. Chateau Kv(|Ueiii, 314. Chateau Klopp, 43.5. Cliateau St. Jean, 262. Chateau Thierry, 279. Chatellerault, 311. Chateloy, 287. Chatham, 197. Chatsworth, 188. Cliauniont, 286. Chavaus en liaut, 386. Chavornayj 392. Chehnsforcl, 196. Cheltenham, 177. ('henmitz, 416. Chepstow, 174. Cherhourg', 263. Chenayre, Defile of, 388. Chesliunt, 192. Chester, 112. Chesterfield, 185. Chesterford, 192. Chexbres-\'evay, 390. (Jhiarone H., .i62. Chiavenna, 3J3. Chillon, Castlo of, 376. Chiuciulla, 643. Chivasso, 514. Chorin, 424. Chrast, 502. Christiania, 697. C!hristiaiisand, 699. Cin'istiansund, 70 k Christiuehainn, 693. ('hwatierub, castle of, 501. Cieinpozuelos, 641. Ciampino, 614. Cilly, 504. Ciinies, 301. Ciudad Real, 664. Civita V'ecchia, 562. Ciney, 331 . Ciiitra, 666. (Jintra, Sierra de, 667. Clarens, 376. Claddagli, 'J'he, 55. Cleghorn, 60. Cleres, 208. Clermont, 207. Cleves, 342. Cl(!vedon, 172. Clifton, 172. Clifton iMoor, 106. Closel)urn, 63. Cluses, 381. Clyde, Falls of tlie, 59. C'oblenz, 441. Cockburn's Path, 102. Cockermouth, 191. Cognac, 311. Cogoletto, 307. Coilantogle Ford, 87. Coimbra, 663. Coire, 351. Colchester, 196. Col de Jiahne, 386. Col de Forclaz, 386. Col de Voza, 386. Coleraine, 49. Colico, 353, 529. Collegno, 512. CoUe'Salveti, 561. Collonges, 288. Cologne, 274, 448. Comlangan Castle, 64. Commercy, 282. Coino, .527. Como, Lake of, 528. Compiegne, 268. Compiegne, Forest of, 269. Cona, Vale of the, 80. Conches, 264. Coiidove, 512. Conegliano, 507. Conisljorougii Castle, 166. Coniston, 190. Connel Feny, 82. Constance, 348. Contamines, 381. Conway, 112. Couteraie, 386. Coiitras, 312. Coo Cascade, 272. Cook's Castle, 143. Copenhagen, Description of, 689» Tl'l INDEX. Copenhagen : Palaces, Castle of Rosenborg, University, Bourse, Arsenal, itc, 690. Coppet, 374, 390. Cora Linn, 59. Corbetha, 426. Cordova, 648. Cork, 31. Cork, Cove of, 30. Corneto, 562. Cornia, 561. Corryvrekan, 77. Corsham, 170. Corstorpliine, 84. Cosa, 562. Cosaun Lough, 35. Cosvrig, 416. Coupar Angus, 93. Couronne, Abbaye de la, 312. Cove, 94. Coventry, 160. Cowes, 141. Craigmiller Castle, 74, 102. Craig na Phithick, 83. Craig Phadrick, 84. Crato, 665. Crecy, 207. Creil, 207. Creuznach, 278. Crevola, 380. Crewe, 110, 113. Crewkerne, 179. Crichton Castle, 98. Crinan, Loch, 76. Cronstadt, 678. Croydon, 200. Cruikstone Castle, 62. Crummock Water, 191. Crussol Castle, 294. Crystal Palace, 137. Cucciago, 527. Culloden, 92. Culoz, 288. Cummertrees, 64. Cushendun, 53. Custrin, 429. Dachsen, 349. Dahlen, 415. Dala, Gorge of the, 396. Dalhousie Castle, 98. Dalkeith, 74. Dairy, 65. Dairy Junction, 62. Dalswinton, 63. Dammsche See, 424. Darlington, 167. Danbury, 196. Darmstadt, 449, 470. Dartmoor Forest, 181. Dauben See, 395. Dawlish, 180. Dax, 314. Dazio Grande, 363. Dean Castle, 62. Delft, 336. Denmark, 686. Dent du Midi, 390. Deptford, 136- Derby, 185. Derwentwater, 191. Desenzano, 530. Desio, 527. Dessau, 426. Dettingen, 453. Deutsch-VVagram, 492. Deutz, 274, 277. Devil's Bridge, 361. Devil's Dyke, 202. Diamond Hill, 188. Dieppe, 208. Dieulouard, 277. Dijon, 292. Dinant, 331. Dinish, Isle of, S6. Dirschau, 430. Divenskaia, 672. Dtilitz, Castle of, 415. Dole, 287. Dole, heights of the, 374, 390. Doncaster, 164. Donchery, 280. Douai, 268. Doune, 86. Doune, Braes of, 86. Dort, 323. Dortmund, 399. Dove Dale, 188. Dover, 198. Dover Castle, 198. Dover Court, 196. Doveria, the, 380. Draclienfels, 445. Drammen, 699. INDEX. 715 Drance, tlie, 38R. Drav.', \;illey of the, 50-t. Dr.iii, 101. Dresden, 41(5. Driebertfen, oH. Drishaue Ciistle, 3k Droglieda, -Uj. Drontheini, 7t)4. Dru, Aiojuille du, 384. Drunilithie, 94. Drybur^^h Abbey, 100. Duart Castle, Bl. Dublin, 40. Castle, 41 ; Cathfidral, 42 ; Four Courts, 44; Phonuix Park, 44. Dubton, 94. Dudhope Castle, 96. Duisbur-^, 34'.', 399. Duhvich, 196. Dumbarton, 38. Dumfries, 63. Dunabur<:f, 672. Dunbar, lO'J. Dunblane, 86. Dundalk, 47. Dundee, 96. Dundonald Ca.stle, 65. Duniardd, fort of, 83. Dunkeld, 91. Dunloe, Gap of, 35. Dunloe, Castle and Cave, 35. Dunluce Castl*?, 49. DunoUy Castle, 81. Dunoon, 76. Dunottar Castle, 94. Dunsinane Hill, 96. Dunstaflnafi;e Castle, 81. Duntroon Castle, 76. Duppliu Castle, 91. Durham, 167. Durlacii, 472. Diirnkruth, 492. Diisseldorf, ^^2. Dutton \ iaduct, 169. Eagle's Nest, 36. Earlswood, 201 East Linton, 102. East Moy, 83. Eaton Hall, 113. Ecclefecban, 60. Eccles, 108. Eddjslone Lighthouse, 182. Edinburgh, 69. Castle, 70; Holyrood Palace, 71; Scott's .Monument, 72; Calton Hill, 72; Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, 73. Edmonton, 192. Ehrenbreitstein, 4-11. Ehrenfels Castle, 436. Ehrenhausen, 504. Elirenthal, 439. Eide, 702. Eidsvold, 700. Eiger, the, 367, 391. Eiian \'ow, 90. Eilund, 423. Eisenach, 427. Elbing, 130. Elchingen, 461. Elda, 643. El Escorial (station), 634. Ellen's Isle, 88. Elleray, 189. Elliock, 63. Elmhult, 692. Elmshorn, 688. Elsinore, 691. Elstow, 183. Elten, 342. Eltville, 43.3. Elvanfoot, 60. Elvas, 665. Ely, 193. Emmerich, 342. Ems, 451. Endorf, 482. Enfield, 192. Engelberg, 356. Engelhiirner, the, 370. Engern, 399. Engers, 4-12. Enns, 484. ' Epernay, 279. Epernon, 263. Epping Forest, 195. Erbach, 433. Erfurt, 427. Erlenbach, the, :>71. Erpelerlei, the, 444. Erquelines, 269. Errol, 96. 716 INDEX. Esa, 301. Escurial, Palace of tlie, 638. Esemael, 330. Eskbank, 102. Eslcif, 692. Essclien. 323. Essen, 399. Esslino'en, 459. Este, 355. Esthwaite Water, 189. Etampes, 308. Etnedal, Valley of, 699. Eton College, 146. Ettlingen, 473. Evreux, 264. nCxeter, 180. Exminster, 180. Eydtkuhnen, 431, 671. Eylau, 431. Faido, 363. Falkenburg, 436. Falkenstein, Castle of, 448, 479. Falkirk, 68. Falkniss, the, 351. Falkiipinf,-, ()92. Falls of liruar, 92. Falmouth, 182. Fariolo, 380. Farnell Road, 94. Farnborough, 141. Faskally House, 92. Feignies, 265. Feli3erg, the, 448. Felsenthor, 357, 422. Fence Houses, 167. Ferentino, 615. Fernev, 373. Fernliill, 142. Ferrara, 554. Fexhe, 331. Figueras, 663. Figline, 563. Fille-Fjeld, 699. Finale Marina, 306. Fingal's Cave, 78. Fingask Castle, 96. Finstadbro, 699. Finster-Aarhorn, the, 391. Finsthwaite Fell, 190. Fitznau, 359. Fischbach, 479. Flamboin, 283. Flegei-e, the, 384. Flensburg, 688. Florence, 548. Churches, 549; Pitti Palace, 552; the Arno, 332 ; Gar- dens, 553. Florisdorf, 492. Floriston, 61. Fliielen, 360. Foligno, 566. Follouica, 561. Fontainebleau, 257. Forbach, 278. Forest Gate, 195. Forest of Dean, 175. Forres, 92. Forfar, 94. Forgandenny, 91. Forteviot, 90. Fort Augustus, 83. Fort de i'Ecluse, 288. Fort St. jNJark, 264. Fort William, 82. Fountainhall, 102. Fountains Abbey, 186. Fourrieres, 293. Foyers, Falls of, 83. France, 203. Frankenthal, 450. Frankfoit-on-the-Main, 428. Frankfort-on-the-Oder, 429. Franzenbad, 502. Franzenfeste, 481. Frascati, 600. Frauenwiirth, Island of, 482. Fredensborg, 691. Fredericia, 688. Frederickschald, 696. Frederiksvarn, 698. Freilassing, 482. Freising, 476. Frejus, 298. Freshwater Bay, 143. Freshwater Cave, 143. Freyburg, 390. Friars' Carse, 63. Friburg, 474. Friedberg, 452. Friedlanii, 431. Friedrichsfeld, 471. Friedrichshafen, 318. INDEX. 717 Friache Ilaff, the, 430. Fronti;;min, ,'>18. Frosiiionc, (115. Frouaril, 'Jii'J. Friiti^eii, .'59."). Friitigfii, Valley of, 395. Fulda, 4'.^8. Fulliirton Castle, 65. Furca I'asa, 36'J. Furiu'ss Abbey, 190. Fiirsteuhurt;', 4."3(i. Fiirtli, 455. Fusliit'-bridge, lO'i. Gaillon, 212. (ialasliiels, 98. Galeiie Pass, 396. Gallarate, 380, 5'2'2. Gallenstock, the, ;571. Gallinaria, 306. (iaiway, 54. Gaiizenidorf, 492, 507. Gariikirk, 60. Gartclioiizie Wood, 87. CJartsberrie J auction, 60. Gatcliina, 67^2. Gatconibe, 143. Gave-de-L'au, X'alley of, 314. Gayleu (!a.stle, 77. Gazabo Hill, 34. Geiselhih'ing, 476. Geisenheim, 4.'i4. Geislingen, 460. Gelnliausen, 428. Geiuunden, 454. Gemini I'ass — the Collon, the Pigne d'Aro- la, tlie Saas Grat, 395. Geneva, 372. Geneva, i.ake of, 373. Genoa, Description of,522; Churches, 523 ; I'alaces, 524 ; Thea- tre anil Gardens, 525; \'illa I'allavicini, Steam- ers, 526. Germany, 397. Gerold Seek, Castle of, 284. Geroua, 663. Gersaii, 359. Getafti, 641. Ghent, 3'25. Giant's Cau.seway, 49. Giant's Anipliitheatre, Chimney Tops, ( )rf^'an, .51. Giebicliensieni, 413. Giessbach I'-.dU, 366. (iiessen, •k)2. Gifford, 101. (iiilies llill, 85. Giornico, 363. Gi vet, 331. (ijovij,', 700. Glacier des Bossons, 384. (i lam IS, 93. (ihinis, \'a!L'y of, 350. Glasj^fow, 57. ( ilena 15ay, 37. G Unarm, 53. Glencarse, 96. Glencoe, 80. Glen Urquliart, 83. {jietscher-horn, the, 391. Glop;u:nitz, 503. (iloucester, 176. (iliickstadt, 688. (ily shorn, the, 379. GiKitlau, 413. (ioar, St., 438. (ioarshausen, St. 438. Ciodesberg', 4-16. (iodshill, 143. Goethe, birthplace of, 429. liogar, 84. G(ii;'s;'iii>^en, 478. (ioldsmith, Oliver, his i^ave, 119. (JoiiK'tra, Island of, 77. Gondo, ,-580. Cioiulo, Cior^e of, 380. Goodrich Court, 175. Goold Cross, 40. Giippin^en, 460. Gorge (le Trieiit, 378. Gorge of tlie Dala, 378. Ciiirner Griit, 387. Ciijiner Glacier, 387. Goschenen, 361. (iosford House, 101. (iiita Canal, 692, 694. Giita, tlie, 695. Ciotorg, 380. (iotha, 427. Gottenburg, 696. • (iouda, 341. 718 INDEX. Goute, Aiguille du, 381. Goute, Dome du, 381. Gramjjians, The, 97. Gray House, 96. Granada, 657. Alliambra, La Sierra del Sol, Albaicin,6.57 ; Antequeruela, 658; Generalife,Silla del Rey More, 659; Alcaiseria, Soto de Roma, 660. Grandson, 392. Grange Court Junction, 174. Gran Nana, 508. Granollers, 663. Grantham, 163. Grant's House, 102. Grasmere, 190. Gratz, 504. Gravellona, 380. Graville, 210. Gray House, 96. Great Island, 31. Greenloaming-, 90. Greenock, 59. Greenwich, 136. Grenolde, 289. Greta Hall, 191. Gretna Junction, 61. Gretz, 285. Grimsel, Hospice, 371. Grindehvald, 369. GriJdnertlial, the, 481. Grodno, 683. Gross Beeren, 425. Grosseto, 561. Gross Hesselhtihe, 482. Grosse Winterberg, 421. Grotte de la Wamme, 331. Grottes de Han, 331. Grotto di Posilipo, 621. Grotto del Cane, 622. Grotio della Sibilla, 623. Grotto of Balme, 381. Grynau, Castle of, 350. Guadalajara, 640. Guadalquivir, R., 648. Gudvani^en, 701. Guingamj), 261. Gumbinnen, 431. Gustafsberg, 696. Gunterslmusen, 452. Giinzburg, 461. Gutenfels, Castle of, 437. Guthrie Junction, 94. Guttanen, 371. Haarlem, 338. Habiclits-grund, 423. Haddington, 101. Haddon Hall, 187. Hadersdorf, Park of, 484. Hadersleben, 688. Hagenow, 424. Hague, The, 336. Haidemiihle, the, 421. Halberg, the, 278. Halifax, 186. Hall, 480. Halle, 413. Hamburg, 411. Hamilton Palace, 59. Hamm, 399. Hammerfest, 706. Hammerstein, 443. Hampton Court, 135. Hanau, 428. Handek, Fall of the, 371. Hanover, 399. Hanwell, 149. Harbatzhofen, 479. Harburg, 410. Harrogate, 186. Harrow, 115. Hartford, 110, 169. Harwich, 196. Harz Mountains, 401. Hasli, valley of, 370. Haste, 399. Hastings, 199. Hatfield, 162. Hatfield House, 162. Hattenheim, 434. Hattersheim, 448. Haut Barr, castle of, 284. Haut Brion, 314. Haute Combe Monastery, 288. Havre, 209. Hawick, 103. Hawkshead, 189. Hawlbowline, Island of, 30. Hawthornden, 74. Hay ward's Heath, 201. Hazeldean, 103. Heidelberg, 471. Heidentburm, the, 479. INDEX. 719 Heigenbriicken, 454. Hfiliiiciiberij, the, 472. llt'imhuri^, Castle of, 436. Helen's, St., 108. Hel-,'i;, 699. Ilellin, (544. Ilelsinjjfors, 684. Helvolly.i, 191. Hemsbach, 471. Hendave, ;>lo. Heppenlieim, 471. llerbestal, '273. Hi'rcul;iii('um, 6'J.T. Ilertbrd, 399. Her,', Valley of the, 474. Murtola, 305. Miirtschenstock, the, 350. Murviedro, 660. Miirz, 504. jMiirzzuschlag, 504. Musselburgh, 101. Mythen, the, 359. Nabresina, 506. Nahe, the, 435. Nairn, 92. Namedy, 443. Namur', 269. Nancy, 282. Nangis, 285. Nangy, 381. Nant d'Arpenaz, 381. Nantes, 310. Naples, description of, 615 ; Churches, 616 ; iNIuseums, 617 ; Libraries, Palaces, 620 ; Thea- tre, Arsenal, Excursions, 6i.c., 621. Napoleon Bonaparte, Tomb of, 242. Narbonne, 317. Narischkine, 678. Narni, 567. Nassjo, 692. Naughton Castle, 96. Nauheim, 452, 458. Naumburg, 426. Neath, 173. Neath Castle, 173. Needles, the, 143. Neerwinden, Plain of, 330. Neptune's Staircase, 83. Nera, Gorge of the, 567. Ness Castle, 84. Nethercleugh, 60. Netley Abbey, 138. Neuchatel, 287, 392. Neuchiitcl, Lake of, 393. Neudorf, 507. Neu Eberstein, Castle of, 474. Neuendorf, 442. Neuhaus, 394. Neuhausel, 508. Neuhausen, 347. Neu-Habsburg, Castle of, 359. Neumiinster, 688. Neu Thor Tunnel, 483. Neu \Vartburg, Castle of, 354. Neuss, 343. Neustadt, 409. Neustadt Eberswalde, 424. Neuveville, 393. Neuwied, 443. Newark, 163. Newbattle Abbey, 102. Newbridge, '10. New Caslleton, 103. Newcastle-on-Tyne, 167. New Forest, 139. Newhaven, 201. Newliston Park, 84. Newport, 142, 172. Newstead Abbey, 185. Newton, 108. Newton Junction, 181. Newton, Sir Isaac, his residence, 133. Nice, 299. N iddry Castle, 84. N idwaldun, Valley of, 366. 726 INDEX. Niederburg-, the, 434. IVieder-Breisig, 443. Nieder-Heimbacli, 436. Nieder-Kestert, 439. Niederlahnstein, 440. Niederspay, 440. Niederwald, 434. Niederwalluf, 433. Nienburg, 409. Nierstein, 449. Niesen, the, 394. Nijni Novgorod, 682. Nimes, 303. Nimes — Amphitheatre, Maison Carree, 303; Fountain of the Nymphs, 304. Nivelles, 324. Nogath, Island of, 430. Nogent le Rotrou, 262. Nogent sur Marne, 285. Nogent sm- Seine, 285. Noir Mont, 374. Nollingen, Castle of, 436. Nonnenwerth, 445. Normaaton, 185. Northallerton, 167. North Berwick, 101. North Cape, 706. Northwich, 169. Norway, 687. Norwich, 194. Norwood Junction, 200. Notre Dame de la Garde, 297. Nottingham, 184. Novara, 515. Noveant, 277. Novi, 526. Novelles, 207. Noyon, 269. Nuits-sur-Ravieres, 292. Nules, 660. Niiremburg, 455, 503. Nya Stegeborg, Castle of, 695. Nyborg, 689. Nydau, 393. Nykoping, 695. Nymphenburg Palace, 470. Nystuen, 701. Nyon, 374, 390. Oban, 77. Obercastle, 447 Ober-Cilly, 504. Ober Wildon, 504. Oberhausen, 342, 399. Oberkirch, 350. Ober-Kestert, 439. Oberland range, 372. Oberlainstein, 440. Oberspay, 440. Oberstein, 278. Oberwesel , 437. Oberwinter, 445. Ochill Hills, 86. Ockenfels, 444. Odense, 689. Oedenburg, 503. Oestrich, 434. Offenburg, 475. Oissel, 212. Oistriza Spitze, 504. Okulofka, 678. Old Man, the, 190. Old Sarum, 179. Olite, 639. Oliver Castle, 91. Olmiitz, 493. Olten, 354. Oos, 285, 474. Oneglia, 306, Oporto, 668. Oppenheim, 449. Orange, 294. Orbetello, 562. Orbetello (Salt Lake), 562. Orleans, 308. Ornavasso, 380. Orsieres, 388. Orte, 567. Orvieto, 614. Osborne House, 141. Oschatz, 415. Ossian's Cave, 92. Ossian's Hall, 92. Ossola, Val d', 380. Ossola, Domo d', 380. Ostashkof, 678. Ostend, 329. Osteria, 613. Ostia, 599. Osterspay, 440. Ostroft; 672. O'Sullivan's Cascade, 37. Otloczyn, 684. INDEX. 7'i7 Ottignips, 331. Ouches, Les, 382. Oucliv, 37i. Oxford, 119. Paarstfin, Lake of, 424. I'julua, .534. I'a-stum, 628. I'aislny, 61. I'al.Tmo, 630. Pallanza, 365. F^alo, 562. Pani|>('luna, 638. Pansliantjer Park, 162. Pajiststein, 423. Paracelsus, Tomb of, 483. Pardubitz, 493. Paris, description of, 213 ; Hotels, 21.3 ; American Jiankin;;'- houses, 214; Pensions, 214; Churches, 219; Palaces, 223; iMuseums, 229 ; Parks and (jar- dens, 232 ; Bridges, 240; Hos- pitals, 242 ; Cemeteries, 247 ; J.ibraries, 248 ; Theatres, 250. Parkside, 108. Parma, 5-15. Parona, 482. PasaJHs, 633. Pasing, 462. Passaf^e, 31. Passiji^nano, 564. Passow, 424. Patricroft, 108. Patterdale, 191. Pau, 314. Pa^aa, 526. Pavlofsk, 682. Payerbach, .503. Pei,'li, 307, 526. Penmaenmaur, 112. Penrhyn Castle, 111. Penrith, 106. Penshurst, 199. Pentland Hills, 84. Penzance, 182. Penzino^, 465, 492. Pepinster, 271. Peri, 482. Per])isrnau, 663. Persenburtr, 464. Perte du Rhone, 288. Perth, 91. Perthus, 663. Peruj^a, 564. Pescliiera, ,531. Pescia, 556. Pesth, 508. Peterboroui,^h, 163. PeterJiof, 677. Petersau Island, 433. Peter the Great,.sfeSaardam; and St. Petersburg. Pfalz, the, 4.37. Pfefters, Gorge of, 351. Pfeffers, Convent of, 351. Pforzen, 478. lYorzlieim, 473. l-'hilipsruhe, 428. I'iacenza, 544. Pianazzo, 352. Picquign}"^, 207. Pierre, St., 388. Pieve a N'ievole, 556. Pike Rock, 35. Pilate, Mount, 366. Pillnitz, 422. I'ilsen, 502. Pinkie, 101. Pinto, 641 . Pipet, JMount, 293. Pirna, 421. Pisa, description of, 557 ; Cathe- dral, Leaning Tower, 558 ; Campo Santo, Palaces, inc., 559. Piscina ^Mirabilis, 623. Pistoia, 547. Pitlocliry, 92. Planiua, 505. Pleissenburg, Castle of, 414. Plessis les Tours, 310. Plittersdorf, 4kj. Plochingen, 460. Plombieres, 283. Plymouth, 181. Pochlarn, 484. Podgurcze, 684. Poi,'gibonsi, 613. Poik, R., 505. Poissy, 213. Poitiers, 311. i'olmont, 84. Pombal, 668. 728 INDEX. Pommerenzdorf, 424. Pompeii, 625. Pontefract Castle, 166. Pont-a-Mousson, 277. Pontarlier, 287. Pontassieve, 563. Pont de Brique, 207. Pont de I'Arche, 212. Pont du Gard, 302. Ponte Lao:oscuro, 555. Pont Pelissier, 381. Pont St. JNIaxence, 268. Pordenone, 507. Poreclie, 683. Porlezza, 364, 529. PorsoTund, 699. Portaleo;re, 665. Portarlington, 40. Portcoon Cave, 49. Port Ercole, 562. Portici, 624. Portishead, 172. Porto Maurizio, 306. Portobello, 98. Port Rush, 49. Port Vendres, 663. Portsmouth, 143. Posilipo, Grotto of, 621. Potassa, 561, Potsdam, 407. Potzscha, 421. Powderham Castle, 180. Pozo Estrecho, 645. Pozuelo, 634. Pozzuoli, 622; Temple of Jupiter Serapis, 622 ; Cicero's Villa Amphitheatre, 623. Praga, 683. Pragerhof, 504. Prague, description of, 493 ; Im- perial Palace, 499; Palaces, Kings, 494 ; Churches, 495 ; the Ghetto, 496; Museum, 496; Statues, 497 ; Gardens, 500. Prato, 548. Pratteln, 353. Prehisch Thor, 421. Presburg, 492, 507. Preston, 107. Preston Brook, llO. Preston Junction, 102. Prestonpans, 101. Prestwick, 65. Prien, 482. Pristewitz, 416. Probstheyde, 415. Promenthoux, 374. Proz, Plain of, 388. Pskof, 672. Puerto de Santa Maria, 654. Puerto Real, 654. Puffins' Island, 112. Purkersdorf, 484. Purple Mountain, 35. Pyrgos, 562. Quarr Abbey, 142. Queenstown, 30. Quevy, 265. Quievrain, 268. Radolfszell,348. Ragatz, 350. Ragland, 176. Raigern, 493. Rambouillet, 263. Ramsgate, 198. Randa, 387. Rapperschwyl, 350. Rastadt, 473. Rathen, 421. Rathe, 84. Ratisbon, 457, 476 ; Prisons and Chambers of Torture, 477; Wal- halla, 478. Raudnitz, 501. Rauheneck, ruins of, 503. Rauhenstein, ruins of, 503. Ravazzone Ala, 481. Reading, 169. Realp, 372. Red Hill, 201. Reedham Junction, 194. Rehrae, 399. Reichenbach Falls, 370. Reichenau, 352. Reien, 699. Reifenstein, Castle of, 481. Remagen, 444. Rendsburg, 688. Resina, 624. Retford, 164. Reus, source of, 372. Revel, 684. INDEX. 7-29 Rcnfrow, 56. Rennes, 262. Rheims, 280. Rhdn;iu, 'k53. Rheinburir, ( astle of, 437. Rheinbroiil, 443. Rheindinbacli, 436. RlK'int'ck, 4rl3. Rhcinf.'Idpn, 347. Rlit'iiif.'ls, 438. Rheingau, 433. Rlieingfrafenstein, 278. Rheinstein, 436. Rhense, 4-k). Rhine, Falls of, 347. Rhine, source of the, ^72. Rho, 380, 522. Rhone glacier, 371. Rhone, source of the, 372. Rhyl, 112. Riccarton Junction, 103. Richings Lodge, 149. Richmond, 134. Richmond, Chateau of, 400. Riesa Junction, 416. Rigi Kaltbad, 357. Rigi Kulm, 358. Ripafratta, 556. Ripon, 186. Riva, 353. Rivoli, .S12. Rivoli Pass, 482. Roberts' Chapel, St., 186. Roberts' Cave, St. 186. Rob Roy's Cave, 89. Rochdale, 186. Rochefort, 311. Rochemelon, 291. Rochester, 196. RockclifFe, 61. Roderau, 426. Rodi^rau, \'iaduct of, 416. Roeskilde, 689. Rokitzan, 502. Rolandseck, 445. Rolle, 374, 390. Romanshom, 348. Rome, 567 ; English and Ameri- can Sculptors and Painters, Church Festivals, 569 ; descrip- tion of city, 570 ; Bridges, 571 ; Squares, 572 ; Mamertine Pri- son, 574; Cloaca Maxima, 574; Coliseum, 576 ; Pantheon, 578; Tpmi)le of \'esta, 578 ; IJaths, 579 ; Palace of the Cesars, 582 ; Aqueducts, 580; Basilicas, 584; Churches, 592 ; Palaces, 593 ; Fountains, 598 ; Excursions, 599; Notes, 602 to 613. Romcrbad, 504. Romford, 196. Romont, 390. Roosendaal, 323. Ropscha, 678. Rosenheim, 482. Rosenlaui, Baths of, 370. Roseustein, 459. Roshult, 692. Roslin Chapel, 74. Roslin Castle, 75. Rosny, 213. Ross Island, 37. Ross Castle, 38. Rossel, the, 435. Rossie Priory, 96. Ross-stein, 4i>8. Rosta, 512. Rostock, 501. Rothenberg, 4.">9. Rothesay, 76. Rotterdam, 335. Rotzberg, Castle of, 366. Rousseau's Island, 372. Rouen, 210. Roveredo, 481. Rovigo, 555. Rowardenan Pier, 90. Rowsley, 188. Roxburgh Station, 102. Royal Border Bridge, 168. Ruda Guzovska, 684. Riidesheim, 434. Rugby, 114. Ruschenberg Castle, 482. Rusellje, 561. Russia, 670. Ruthwell, 64. Riitli platte, 359. Rosen, lake of, 695. Rydal, 190. Ryde, 142. Saarbriicken, 278. 730 INDEX. Saardam, 340. Sabadell, 66^. Sachingen, 347. Sachseln, 366. Sachsenhausen, 469, 429. Sadowa, Field of, 493. Siifstaliolm, 692. Saint Bernard, Great, Pass of,388. Saint Chamas, 296. Saint Victor, 208. Saitz, 493. Salen, 77. Salerno, 628. Saleves, les, 288. Salisbury, 178. Sallenclie, Fall of the, 378. Sallenches, 381. Saltine, tlie, 379. Salzburg, 482. Salzburg Torture Chamber, Ou- bliette, 483. Salzig, 439. Salzkaminergut, 484. San Bonifacio, 533. Sandau, 433. Sandoesund, 698. San Fernando, 654. San Germano, 514, 615. San Giovanni, 563. San Giuliano, 556. San Lorenzo, 306. San Pierdarena, 307. San Sebastian, 633. Sans Souci Palace, 408. Sans Souci Park, 408. San Stefano, 562. San Stefano al Mare, 306. Sant Ambrogio, 512. Santa Maria, 615. Santa jNIaria Maddalena, 555. Santa Marinella, 562. Santa Severa, 562, Santarem, 665. Santbia, 514. Saragossa, 639, 662. Sargans, 350. Sarmieux, 386. Sarnen, 366. Sarpsborg, 697. Sarreburg, 282. Sarura, Old, 179. Sassbach, 474. Saverue, 284. Savigny, 307. Savona, 307. Saxon, Baths of, 378. Saxon Switzerland, 421. Scale Force, 191. Scarba, 77. Scarborough, 166. Scawfell Pikes, 191. Schadau, Castle of, 394. Scbaffhausen, 347. Schalbet, 379. Schandau, 421. Schauenberg, Castle of, 353. Scheerhorn, 359. Scherzligen, 394. Schiedam, .336. Schintznach, Baths of, 354. Schierstein, 433. Schlangenbad, 451. Schleswig, 688. Schlossberg, 278. Schlossgarten, 482. Schmerikon, 350. Sclmeeberg, 424. Schneeberg Mountains, 503. Scbonnbrunn, Palace of, 485, 492. Schonebeck, 41.3. Schoneburg, 415. Schoenberg, Castle of, 437. Schulporta, 427. Schreckhorn, 391. Schiitzeninsel, Island of, 497. Schwabmiinchen, 478. Schwalbach, 451. Schwandorf Junction, 503. Schwannstadt, 483. Schwarenbacli, 395. Schwarzau, the, 503. Schwarzenberg, Hill of, 411. Schwarze Thurm, 354. Schwaz, 479. Schwechat, 492. Schweinfurt, 455. Schweizermiihle, 424. Schwerin, 421. Scone, Palace, 91. Scotland, description, 56; popu- lation, 56; climate, 57. Scott, Sir Walter, his residence, 99. Scott, Sir Walter, his grave, 100. INDEX. rsi Scrivia, tlio, 526. Switoii House, 101. Sedan, 280. Sef^ii, 615. Semley, 179. Seninicrinfif, 503. Sens, yyi. Seregno, 527. Serquigny, 261. Servoz, ,"381. Scsia, the, 515. Sesto Calende, 365, 380. Sestri di Ponante, 307. Settino, 514. Seven Alountains, 445. Seville (description of), 650 ; Plazas, 650 ; Ciiurches, 651 ; Palaces, 653; Picture Gallery, 653. Sevres, 259. Sliat'tesbury, 179. Shakespeare's C'liflF, 198. Shanklin Cliine, 1 13. Sheffield, 164. Scheideck, Cireat, 370. Scheideck, Lesser, 369. Shelford, 192. Sherborne, 179. Sheriffinuir, 90. Shuna, 77. Sidlaw Mountains, 96. Sieben L'hurlirsten, 350. Sieben .lungfrauen, 438. Siena, 613. Sierra, 378, 396. Signal de jiondy, 374. Silberliorn, 367. Sion, 378. Simplon, 379. Simplon' Pass, 379. Simsee, Lake, 482. Singen, .'J-IS. Sjiitorp, 696. Skerries, 46. Skiddaw, 191. Skierniewitz, 684. Slough, 144. Soden, 448. Siiderkiiping, 695. Siidertelje, 692. Soignies, Forest of, 324. Soleure, 393. Solfafara, tlie, 614, 623. Solferino. Battle field of, 531. Solway, 1-rilli, 61. Somain, 269. Somma, 522. Somma C'ompngna, 531. Sonneck, Castle of, 436. Sonnenwendstein, 503. Sonnenstein, 424. Sophien-insel, Isliind of, 497. Soro, 689. Sorrento, 627. Soto de Hoina, 660. Southampton, 137. Spa, 272. Spain, 631. Spandau, 424. Sparresliohn, 692. Sparrow Hills, 679. Speer, tlie, 350. Spello, 566. Spessart, Forest of, 454. Spielburg, Castle of, 493. Spielfeld, 504. Spires, 450. Spirova, 678. Spliigen, 352. Spliigen Pass, 352. Spoleto, 566. Spotorno, 306. Sprechenstein Castle, 481. St. Andre, 301. St. IJeatus, Cave of, 395. St. lienigno. Hills of, 523. St. Bonnet, 302. St. Boswell's, 102. St. Brieuc, 261. St. Cloud, 252. St. Cyr, 263. St. Denis, 260. St. Germain, 213. St. Germain-eu-Laye, 259. St. (Joar. 438. St. Ilonorat He, 299. St. Jean de Luz, 315. St. Jean de Maurienne, 290. St. Laurent du Pont, 290. St. Louis, 286. St. Lucia, 482. St. Marco, 380. Ste. Marguerite He, 298, St. Mauro, 305. 732 INDEX. St. Medard d'Eyrans, 316. St. Michael, Castle of, 381. St. Michel, 290. St. Minians, 85. St. Nicholas, 387. St. Nicholas, Valley of, 387. St. Petersburo;, description of, 672; Cathedrals, 673 ; Palaces, 674; Admiralty, Libraries, and Museums, 676 ; Theatres, Mo- numents, 677. St. Pierre d'Albigny, 290. St. Pierre He, 393. St. Pierre de Vouvry, 212. St. Quentin, 269. St. Remo, 306. St. Roch, 435. St. Sebastian, 442. St. Vincenzo, 561. St. Verena, Hermitage of, 394. Staab, 503. Stadt-am-Hof, 476. Stadtsulza, 427. Staffa, 77. StaflFord, 114. Stahlheim, Cascade of, 699. Stalden, 387. Stalker Castle, 81. Standard Hill, 167. Standswik, Forest of, 685. Stano:hella, 555. Stanley Junction, 91. Stanser Horn, 359. Stanzstad, 366. Stark enburg. Castle of, 471. Stahleck, 4S6. Staubbach, Falls of, 368. Steele Road, 103. Stegeborg, 695. Steinach, 479. Steinbriick, 504. Steinhuder-Meer, 409. Sternberg, Castle of, 439. Sterzing, 481. Sterzinger Moos, 481. Stettin, 424. Stevenage, 163. Stewarton, 62. Stobs, 103. Stock Gill, 190. Stockholm, 692 ; Palace, 692 ; Churches, Ofver Stathallerhaus, &c., 693 ; Museum, &cc., 694. Stockhorn, 394. Stoke Pogis, 146. Stolzenfels, 440. Stonebyres, 59. Stonehaven, 94. Stonehenge, 179. Storhanuner, Cathedral of, 699. Stow, 102. Strand, 699. Strasburg, 284. Strathconan, 93. Strattlingen, Tovs^er of, 395. Stratford-on-Avon, 152. Stratton Park, 141. Stresa, 365. Strid, the, 187. Stromstad, 696. Stronachlachar Pier, 89. Strial, 688. Studley Royal, 186. Sturnsdorf, 413. Stuttgart, 458. Susa, 291. Susa, Valley of, 512. Susten, 378. Swansea, 173. Sweden, 687. Swinemunde, 425. Switzerland, 346. Sydenham Hill, 197. Symington, 60. Tafalla, 639. Tain, 294. Talamone, 561. Talavera, 664. Tamworth, 114. Tantow, 425. Tanley, 291. Tarbert, 96. Tarragona, 661. Tarrasa, 662. Tarbet, 90. Taunus mountains, 4o3. Tavazzano, 544. Tchudov, 678. Teano, 615. Teddington, 135. Teignmouth, 180. Teisendorf, 482. Tellenburg, Castle of, 395. Tell's Chapel, 359. INDEX. 733 Tell's Platte, 359. Templemoro, 40. Tert^iior, '261). Ter-la-Ilay, 324. Termini, 630. Terneusen, 326. Terni, 566. Terni, Falls of, 567. T6te Noire, 386. Tetschen, 422. Teufelskiiche, 422. Teufelstein, 361. Tewkesbury, 177. TLankertou, 60. Thionville, 282. Thirle, Castle of, 393. Thirlestane Castle, 162, Thirsk, 167. Tliomar, 667. Thorn, 684. Thornhill, 63. Thrasimene, Lake of, 564. Three Bridges, 201. Threld, 79. Thun, 394. Thun, Lake of, 394. Thliringer Wald, 428. Thurles, 40. Thurnberg, Castle of, 439. Thusis, 352. Tiber, R., 562. Ticino, The, 365. Ticino, Source of, 372. Tilsitt, 431. Tines, 386. Tintern Abbey, 174. Tinto Hill, 60. Tirlemone, 330. Tivoli, 601. Toboso, 643. Toledo, 641. Tolosa, 633. Tomb of Virgil, 622. Tonnerre, 291. Tonsberg, 699. Tonvold, 699. Torbemiory, 77. Tore Cascade, 38. Tor Castle, 83. Torjok, 678. Torno, 529. Torquay, 181. Torqucmada, 634. Torre de Barra, 661. Torronthorn, the, 396. Torrisdal, the, 698. Torna, 526. Tortona, 526. Tortosa, 660. Tiiss, Valley of, 349. Totness, 181. Toul, 282. Toulon, 297. ' Toulouse, 316. Tour de la Ligue, 291. Tour de Peilz, 376. Tour de PeyberUmd, 313. Tour de Sclicenburg, 427. Tours, 310. Tourtemagne, 378. Tratzberg^, 479. Traun, Falls of, 483. Traunstein, 482. Treclitin2:shausen, 436. Treil, 359. Trent, 184,481. Trent, Council of, 481. Treves, 332. Trevi, 566. Treviso, 507. Triel, 213. Trient, 386. Trieste, 506. Trollhattan, Cataracts of the, 695. TriJmsoe, 705. Trondjhem, 700. Troon, 65. Trossachs, Pass of the, 88. Trostburg, Castle of, 481. Troyes, 286. Troy House, 176. Triimeleten-thal, 369. Truro, 182. Tsarkoe-Selo, 672. Tudela, 639. Tunbridge Wells, 199. Turgi Junction, 354. Turin, Descrintion of, 512. ,, Cathedral, Palaces, 513. „ Supcrga, 514. Tusculum, 600. Tver, 679. Tvinden, 699. Twickenham, 135. Tynehead, 102. 734 INDEX. Uddevella, 696. Udine, 506. Uebzeu, 410. Uerbersee, 482. Ullswater, 191. Ulm, 460. Unspunnen, 368. Unter-Bergkowitz, 501. Untersbero-, the, 483. Unterturkheim, 459. Upnor Castle, 302. Upsala, 695. llri, Bay of, 359. Urmerlocli, 362. Urmitz, 443. Utile, 702. Uttewalde, 422. Uttewalder Grund, 421. Uttig-en, 394. Utrecht, 341. Utrera, 654. Uzes, 302. Uznacb, 350. Vabren, Baths of, 481. Valais, Canton of, 395. Valdai, 678. Val de Bagnies, 387. ^^al de Penas, 647. Vaklemuro, 641. Valence, 294. Valencia, 645. Valenciennes, 268. Vale of White Horse, 170. Vale Royal, 169. Valette, 387. Valladolid, 634. Vallendar, 442. Valmoutone, 614. Varazze, 307. Varens Aiguille du,381. Val Orsine, 386. Valley of Chaud Fontaine, 271. Vasco Nunez, birthplace of, 665. Veenenburo-, 338. Velletri, 614. Vendeuvre, 286. Venice, 507, 535: St. Mark's, 536 ; Bridge of Sighs, 539 ; Arsenal, 540 ; Palaces, 541 ; Rialto, 542. Ventimiglia, 305. Ventnor, 143. Vercelli, 514. Verden, 409. Verdun, 282. Vergato, 547. Veriola, 380. Vernayaz, 378. Vernon, 212. Verona, description of, 531 ; Ampliitbeatre, 531 ; Churches, Tomb of Juliet, 532. Verrieres, 287. Versailles, 253 ; Great and Little Trianons, 257 ; Swiss village, 257 ; Grands Eaux, 257. Versoix, 374. Verte, 381. Verviers, 272. Vestgaard, 696. Vesuvius, 624. Vetulonia, 561. Vevay, 376. Via Mala, 352. Viazniki, 684. Vicalvaro, 641. Vicenza, 533. Vichy, 309. Vico, 529. Victoria Park, 192. Vienna, description of, 485 ; History, 485-6 ; Statues, 486 ; Churches, 487; Palaces, 489; Cabinets of iSiatural History, &c., 489 ; Treasure Chamber, 490; Belvedere Palace, 490; Picture Galleries, 490; Uni- versity, 491 ; Theatres, Prater, 491. Vienne, 293. Vierzon Junction, 309. Viescher-horner, 379. A^ietri, 628. Vieux Dieux, 321. Villa d' Este, 529. Villa de Negri, 525. Villa Doria, 307. Villa Grimaldi, 307. Villa jManfrini, 507. Villanova da Gaya, 668. Villa Pallavicini, 307. Villefranche, 301. Villeua, 643. ixnEX. 735 Villenave d'Ornon, 316. V'illeneuve, 377. Vilvorde, 3'20. \'inaroz, 661. Vincennes, if58. Visclini-Volotcbok, 678. Visp, 387. \isjiach, 378. \'itre, 262. X'ittoria, 63^5. \itrv-lH-Fraiifais, 282. \l;uliiiiir, 682. Alotslavek, 684. Vocklabruck,433. . A'oghera, 526. A oijopjiia, 380. V.iikliova, 678. Voltri, 307. VordbiTg:, 434. \'os;^es Mountains, 282. Voslau, 503. ^'ossevangeu, 702. Wabern, 4.52. Wacbau, 415. \\ aklsbut, 347. \\ alhalla, 478. W allenstadt, 35a. Wallt'nstadt, Lake of, 350. A\ allersee Lake, 482. \Vallisellen, 349. \\ altbani Abbey, 194. AValtbam Cross, 192. W ardour Castle, 179. \\ are, 192. \Vare>mine, 330. Wiirkworth Castle, 168. Warrington, 110. Warsaw, 683. Wartburg, Castle of, 427. W arwick, 159. Warwick Castle, 159. ^Vasbotten, Lake of, 696. W astdale, 191. \\ astwater, 191. Wantage, 169. Waterford, 54. Waterloo, 324. AVeggis, 357. Wehlen, 422. Weidliiigau, 484. Weimar, 427. Weiniicim, 471. Weissenf'els, 426. Weissenstein, 394. W^eissenthunn, 442. Weistrupp, Castle of, 416. Welfenstein, Caatle of, 481. Wellhorn, 370. Wellingborough, 183. Welmicb, 439. Wels, 484. WVltrus, 501. Wendelstein, 479, 482. \\ endiscb-U arnow, 421. Wenern, Lake of, 625. Wenersborg, 625, 696. Wengern Alp, 368. ^\'esel, 342. Wesen, 350. Westen banger, 199. Weston-Super-^lare, 172. West Moy, 83. Wetherlam, 190. Wetterborn, the, 370. Wettern, Lake of, 696. \\'ettingen, Abbey of, 354. Whitchurch, 177. White Hill, .501. White Lodge, the, 135. White Rocks, 49. Wieden, 485. Wien, the, 484. Wiener Neustadt, 503. Wierzbolow, 671. Wiesbaden, 448. Wigan, 107. Wiidbad, 473. Wilhelmshbhe, 453. Wilna, 671. Wilton, 179. Wilton Castle, 175. Wilton House, 179. Wimbledon Station, 141. Winchburgli, 84. Winchester, 139. Windeck, Castle of, 471. Windermere, 189. Windsor, 1 tl. Windsor Castle, jNIausoleum, Vir- ginia Water, 144; St. George's Chapel, 146. Wingiiker, 692. Winkel, 435. 736 Winsford, 169. Winterberg, Little, 423. Winterthur, 349. Witham, 195. Wittenberg, 425. Wittekind, Baths of, 413. Woerden, 341. Wolfenbiittel, 400. Wolfsbrunnen, 472. Wolverton, 115. Woodlesford, 185. Woodstock, 151. Woolwich, 136. Worgl, 479. Worms, 449. Worsley Hall, 108. Worth, Castle of, 347. Wotton Bridge, 142. Wunstorf, 399. Wiirzburg, 454. Wurzen, 415. VVyborg, 684. Wyler, 395. INDEX. WyndclifF, 174. Wytenstein, 359. Yarmouth, 194. Yeovil, 179. York, 165. Yverdun, 392. Yvetoi, 21 a. Yvoire, 374. Zehendorf, 401. Zerraatt, 387. Zevenaar, 342. ZiUerthal, Vale of, 479. Zirknitz, Lake of, 505. Zizers, 351. Znamensky, 678. Zorndorf, 430. Zscharne Grund, 422. Zuchwyl, 394. Zug, 355. Zlirich, 349. Zweiliitschinen, 368. Zvvittau, 493. CHISWICK press: — PRINTED BY WHITTINGHAM AND W1LKI.N6, TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON. r APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK. ADVERTISEMENTS, 1871. OCEAN STEAMERS, See pages 4 to 15 inclusive. HOTEL AND MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS, See pages i. to xi. and 16 to 159 inclusive. Amsterdam: — Aiiistel Hotel, 16. Aix LE3 Bains:— Hotel do I'Europe, 17. Antwerp: — Van Bellingen and Siirpraont, Antwerp silks, 17. Hotel de I'liiirope, lb. Hotel de la I'aix, 18. Uf le Have, lirotliers, paintings, 19. Baden-Baden :— Notire of Baths, Fetes, ice. &c., for 1671, 20. Hotel Cour de Bade, 20. Hotel Victoria, 21. Hotel de Hollande, 21. Balk : — Three Kings Hotel, 22. Belfast :— Imperial Hotel, 2:1. Bellaoio :— Hotel Grande Bretaine, 54. Hotel Villa Giulia, 24. Berlin :— Sohacfer and Haiiscliner, bronze goods, &c., 24. 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Buls, goldsmith, o9. Franz. Doize and Co., silks, .V-., 40. Cherbourg ;— Grand Hotel de I'Univers, 40. Chiustiania : — Carriole Co., 41. CoBLENZ ; — Hotel Bellevue, 41. Cologne:— Hotel Disch, 42. J. M. Farina, Cologne water, 43. CoMo, Lake Of:— Hotel Villa d'Fste, 44. Constance : — Hotel du Brochet, 44. CoRic:— Imp'Tial Hotel, 45. Dki-:si'EN : — Hotel Victoria, 46. Hotel de Saxe, 47. R. Tliode and Co., bankers, 30. Dublin : — Shelboiirne Hotel, 48. F-I'INHUROH : — Koy.li Hotel, 19 Eisenach : — Hotel GroMheriog, 49. ENrxELBEHO: — Hotel Sonnf nb»rg, 49. Florence:- Maquay, Hooker and Co. , bankers, SO. INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. Florence:— Eyre anil Matteini, bankers, 152. Carlo Uiicci, music, &c., 51. Elise Briinetti, gloves, &c., 51. F. betli, mosaics, 51. G. I'orrini, mosaics, 51. Groves, cliemist, 52. II. Roberts and Co., chemist, 52. Ci. hrogi, pliotosraplis, .52. E. Provosi ami Co., dry g;oods, 52. Frankfort-on-the-Main : — Hotel dc Ru-ssie, 53. Hotel d'Ani;leterre, 54. Koih, l.autcren and Co., bankers, 55. K. Bohltr, fancy goods, 56. Biiig, Jr. and Co., Dresden china, 57. P. A.Tacchi's successor, Mohemian glass, &c., 68. Hoff, brothers, dry ^oods, 59. Friedmann's successors, jewellery, 60, Joseph liaer, books, 61, .M. Hertz, confections, &c., 61. Cafe Miliini, Kvirsaal \lilani, 62. Staiult and Jung, German worsted, SfC.j 62. Regina Haas, modes, 62. M. Doctor, white goods, &c., 63, Charles Volkert, tailor, 63. Jean Popi*, ladies' dresses, 64. L. A. A. Schmidt, gentlemen's furnishing goods, 64. P. W. Martini, hatter, 65. FrinUenbich, brothers, shoes, 65. Ch. .icigel, books, 66. H. Ki-lier, books, photographs, Ike, 66. J. aiul .S. Goldschmidt, curiosities, 5£C., 66. Strau-s and Co., Brussels laces, 67. Frevburc (Switzerland) :— Grand Hotel Zahringen, 67. Freiburg ( Baden) : — Zahringerhof, 68. Friedrichshafen (Lake of Constance) : — Hotels bellevue and Couronue, 68. Geneva :— Hotel I'eau Rivage, 69. Grand Hotel de la Paix, 70. Hotel des Bergiies, 71. Hotel de I'Kcu, 72. Hotel i\Ieiropole,73. Geo. llaker, chemist, 73. B. \. Hremoud, musical boxes, 74. A. Rivenc and Co., musical boxes, 75. Golay, I.eresche and Sons, watches, &c., 76. Revn'aud and Glatou, watches, &c., 76. F. Richard, hooks, 76. Bloi-h, optician, 77. Hotel de la Couronne, 77. Genoa : — Hotel de la Ville, 77. Grand Hotel de Genes, 79. Grand Hotel d'ltalie, 79- Mossa, tilagree, bO. Costa and Sons, coral, 81. Glasgow ; — Maclean's Hotel, 82. Glasgow and Highland Steamers, 83. Halle : — Hotel Stadt-Hamburg, 83. Hanover : — Union Motel, 83. Alex. Simon, banker, 84. HEtDELBERO : — Hotel de I'Europe, 84. Hotel I'rince Charles, 65. HoMBURO (Baths). Hotel de Rustic, 85. Four Seasons Hotel, 66. Royal Victoria Hotfl, 87. Ph'. Fischer, jewellery, 87. Innsbruck : — Hotel d' Antriche, 88. Motel dc i' Europe, 88. Interlaken:— Griind Hotel Victoria, 89. Hotel de 1' Oberland, 89. Hotel Sc^hwi'iwrhof, 90. Grind Hotel des Alpes, 9». Hotel lungfrau,91. KlLLARNKY ; — Railway Hotel, M. KONIGSWINTER : — Hotel de Berlin, 93. Lausanne (Ouchy) : — Hotel Beau Rivage, 93. Hotel Gibbon, 94. Hotel Ricliemont,94. Leipsic :— Hotel de Prusse, 95. LiNDAU ; — Hotel de Baviere, 95. London : — Jay ladies' milliners, &c., i. John Brogilen, je"eller>, ii. E M. Keilly and Co., gunsmiths, iii. Mrs. Addley Bourne, lady's trousseau, iv. Lambert, goldsmiths, jewellers, and silver- smiths, V. W. P. Lillicrapp, furrier, vi. Bowles Bros, and Co., American bankers, viii. Inglis and Tinckler, Irish poplins, ix. Christian Adams and Co., ladies' outfitters, x. John Sampson and Co., shirt tailors, xi. Langham Hotel, 96. J. & R. McCracken, Shipping Agents, wine- merchants, kc, 97. Stevens, American Literary and Library Agent, 98. Stanford, passport agent, guides, &c., 99. W. J. Adams, passport agent, guides, &c., 99. Chiswick Pi ess, l(jO Howell,. lames, and Co., jewellers, silversmiths, &c., 149. Jordan and Lewis, practical tailors, 150. Clews, Hnbicht. and Co., bankers, 153. M. Myers, travelling trunks, 155. Landon and Co., tailors, 156. H. (Jaz.e, tourist agent, 157. Scott Adie, scotch warehouse, 158. J. S. and A. B. Wyon, goldsmithsand jewellers, 159. LOBECK : — Hotel Stadt Hamburgh, 100. Lucerne : — Hotel ^chweizerhof, 101. Marienbad : — Hotel Kliiiger, 102. Matlock Bath :— New naili Hotel, 102. Melrose : — The Abbey Hotel, 102. Meyringen :— Hotel du Saiivage, 103. Milan : — Grand Hotel de la Ville, 104. C. Belotti, gloves, «ic., 104. Munich :— Four Seasons Hotel, 105. Hotel de baviere, 106. Wimnier and Co., fine arts, 107. HantstaengI, pholo^raphs, 107. Naples: — Hotel de Russie, 108. New York : — Fifth Avenue Hotel, 109. Brown, Bros, and (jo., bankers, 110. Jay, Cooke and Co., hankers. 111. Duncan, Sherman and Co , bankers, vii. Morton, Bliss and Co., bankers, 151. John .Viunroeaiid Co., bankers, 119. Henry Clews and Co.. bankers, 163. Tucker, Andrews, and Co., bankers, 154. Neuchatel: — Grand Hotel du Mont Blanc, 112. Nice:- Avigdor, I'aine et fils, hankers, 112. Geo. Maker, English chemist, 113. Nuremberg : — Hoiel de Baviere, 113. OSTENU : — Hotel des Rains, 114. Oxford ; — Randolph Hotel, 115. Paris;— Grand Hotel, 116. Grand Hotel du Lmivre, 117. Grand Hoiel du Parlement, 118. Munroe and Co., bankers, 119. INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. Paris :— H. CuvillkT anil Brotlier, nines, 120. Jtillieii, porceliLiiie, r^l . Henry Capt, winches, Htc, lit. E. Colle, waltties, \c , IM. MrKeiin and Co., patents, ^^c, 124. Hrtfl (les Etran;.'erb, IJj. Leon, hatter, 1J6. Urexel, H.irjes ami Co., hankers, 126. Bowles, Bros, and Co., bankers, viii. J. W. Tncker and Co., bankers, 154. Pkstii (Hnniiary ) ; — Hotel Queen of England, l2o. Philadelphia : — Drexei and Co., bankers, rj6. Ragaz( Baths) :— Hotel Taniina, 127. KivA (Lake ol' Garda) : — Hotel Golden Sun, 127. ROTTKHIMM ; — Van Mindi II, cariosities, 127. New Bath Hotel, 128. Rome :— .Maqnay, Hooker and Co., hankers, SO. Geo. Baker, English chemist, 128. Salzburo ; — Hotel de I'l-.nrope, 129. St. (iOAR (Rhine): — Lily Hotel, 129. St. Petkrsburoh : — Hotel d'.AnjIeierre, IM. SniAKKHAisF.N (Kallsof the Rhine):— Hotel Sehwei/.erhof, 131. SCHWALBACH : — Hotel Dnkeof Nassau, 131. SotrrHAMPTON : — South Western Hotel, 132. Spa:- Batlis, fetes, SiC for season of ibTli 132. Strksa :— lintel des lies Borooiies, I3J. Trieste :— Hotel de la Ville, 133. Turin :— Hotel de I'Europe, 134. Hotel lie la Li;;nrie, U4. Hotel Triimbetia, I3j. Venice : — Hotel Rn\al Danieli, 136. Hotel Barbesi, |:)7. Hotel Biau Ri\a:;e. 138. Cnarles Ponli, pliotoi,'raph8 and speetacley, IJ9. Verona : — Hotel Barbesi, 140. Vevay : — (•rand Hotel do Lac, 140. Grand Hotel de Vevay, 141. Vlfi.VNA . — (irand Hotel, 142. ViLLENEUVE : — Hotel Byron, 142. Wiesbaden : — Victoria Hotel, 143. Tarchi's succes-or, 144. J. Fneiiman, H4. VVlLDRAl) : — Ho'el KInmpp, 144. V\Mtenber^; - Hoiel Wi'intraube, 144. M I'RZBI RO : - Hoiel Crown Prince of Bavaria, 14.S. Zurich : — Hoiel Baur au lac, 146. Hotel Baur (in ville), 146. No Advertisements will be published in this Guide Book, except those of esla- blishments uhich are knoion to the Editor or the Publishers to be oj the hiuhest respectability and worthy of patronage. Nous acceptous que les unnonces des H6teh et autres etablissements, de premier classe, qui sont enfaveur prks les voyageurs Americains et Anglais, et de la reputa- tion desquels nous sommes convain^us. Orders respecting Advertisements from the British Islands should be addressed to B. F. Steve.S'S, American Literary and Library Agent, 17, Henrietta Street, Coven t Garden, London. AU American orders should be addressed to the Publishers at New York. Les Proprietaires des H6lels et autres etablissements sur le Continent, qui desireyit fuire inserer les Annonces dans ce Guide, sont prits de s'adresser a " Guide Giniral Europien d'Appleton," 60, Rue Neuve St. Augusliu, Pans. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. "ANCHOR" LINE. Regular Steam Communication Between GREAT BRITAIN, THE UNITED STATES, NEW BRUNS- WICK, NOVA SCOTIA, NORWAY, SWEDEN, FRANCE, PORTUGAL, SPAIN, ITALY, SICILY, EGYPT, THE ADRIATIC, AND INDIA, By the Firs Acadia, Alexandria, Anglia, Assyria, Australia, . Britannia, . Caledonia, California, Columbia, Dacian, Despatch, . Dido, . . Dom Pedro, Dorian, . Europa, Geneva, India, . Iowa, . . -class Powerful Clyde-built Screw Steam-Ships- Capt Tannock. . Capt. Lees. . Capt. Craig. Capt. Smith. Capt. Hcddcrwick. Capt. Campbell. Capt. Ovenstoiie. (Now building.) Capt. Small. Capt. Laird. . Capt. Deivar. Capt. Simpson. Capt. Rutherford. . Capt. Young. Capt. RIacdonald. . Capt. Taylor. . Capt. Miinro. Capt. Ovenstojte. Ismailia, . Livorno, . Macedon, Messina, . Napoli, Olympia, . Roma, . . Scandinavia, Scotia,. . Shamrock, Sidonian, . Spartan, . Trinacria, Trojan, Tyrian, Valetta, . Victoria, . Venezia, . Capt. Brown. Capt. Lucas. Capt. Murdoch. Capt. Eaglesome. 'Capt. Ed-wards. (Now building.) . Capt. Ramsay, . Capt. Harvey. . Capt. Lawson. Capt. Livingstone. . Capt. Mackay. Capt. Upton. (Now building.) Capt. Thomson. Capt. Greig. Capt. AP Queen. (Now building.) Capt. Henderson. ATLANTIC SERVICE. Steamers leave Glasgow for New York (calling at Moville, Lough Foyle, to embark passengers only) every Wednesday and Saturday. From New York for Glasgow every Wednesday and every Saturday. From Glasgow, Liverpool, and London, for Halifax, N.S., and St. John, N. B., once a month from March till September. Rates of Passage for New York : — Saloon Cabin, Saturday's Steamers, ^^13 13^'. and ;^I5 I'^s. ; Wednesday's Steamers, £\2 \2s. and £\\ 14J., according to the accommodation and situation of Berths. Return Tickets, Twenty, Twenty-Two, and Twenty-Four Guineas. For Halifax, N. S., and St. John, N. B., Saloon Cabin, ^13 13^-. MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE. Steamers leave Glasgow Weekly for Lisbon, Gibraltar, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo ; Fortnightly for Trieste and Venice ; and Monthly for Algiers, Tunis, Malta, and Alexan- dria. Cabin Fares to Lisbon, £(i ^s. ; Gibraltar, £% 8j. ; Genoa, £\i \ls. ; Leghorn, ;^I3 13^. ; Naples, Messina, and Palermo, ^^14 \\s. ; Trieste and Venice, £ib \bs.; Algiers, ^10 \os.; Tunis and Maka, £\2 \2s.; Alex- andria, ;^i5 1 5 J. Return Tickets granted at Reduced Terms. — These Tickets entitle Passengers to break the journey at any Port or Ports, proceeding by the succeeding Steamers of the Company till they reach their destination, and are available to return within Six Months from date of issue. Liberal terms will be allowed to Tourist Parties numbering Four and upwards. The Round Voyage by these Steamers, usually occupying about Seven APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. "ANCHOR" LINE {Continued). Weeks, presents a route of unequalled interest — Lisbon, Gibraltar, Genoa, Lkghokn, Pisa, P'lorknce, Rome, Naples, Sicily. Venice, and Trieste being all embraced within the circles of their Sailings — and Passengers visiting the Holy Land will find this Route, vid Lgypt, to be the cheapest and most expeditious. MEDITERRANEAN & ATLANTIC SERVICE. Steamers are despatched from Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, Palermo, Marseilles, and Gibraltar, for New York, once a Fort- night; and from Trieste and Venice, for New York, once a Month. Steamers also leave Malaga, Almeria, Valencia, and Denia, for New York, once a Fortnight during the Months of August, September, and October in each year. Fares from Gibraltar, ^^16 iGs.; from Mar- seilles, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, Palermo, Trieste, and Venice, ;i^2i ; from Malaga, Almeria, Valencia, and Denia, £iZ i&r. INDIAN SERVICE. Steamers leave Glasgow Monthly for Alexandria, in connection with the Peninsular and Oriental and British India Steam Navigation Companies, Passengers being forwarded from Suez for Bombay, Colombo, Madras, Calcutta, Rangoon, Moulmein, and all the Principal Seaport Towns in India. NORTH SEA SERVICE. Steamers leave Granton Weekly, during the hcason of open Naviga- tion, for Christiania, Christianssand, and Gothenburg. Cabin Fares, £^ t,s. ; Return Tickets, ^5 5^-, The Passage from Granton to Christianssand occupies only a day and a-half; from Granton to Christiania or Gothenberg, two days. Excursionists can spend either two, nine, or sixteen days in Norway or Sweden, making the trip extend to one, two, or three weeks respectively ; or, var)ing the route, if landed at Christiania, Passengers can proceed by land or sea to Gothenburg, arriving at that Port in time to overtake the Steamer sailing for Granton, or vice versa, and thus be able to travel through a considerable part of both countries, and make the round trip in NINE DAYS, with opportunities of visiting the capital cities of Norway and Sweden, and of enjoying the deliglitful summer climate of Scandinavia, amidst some of the finest scenery on the Continent of Europe. Apply to HENDERSON BROTHERS, New York, Chicago, Liverpool. Dundee, Leilh, Granton, Drontheini, Ch^^tlallia, and Gothenburg ; Steinmann & LiDwic, Antwerp; Morris & Co., and Behrens & Wertheim, Hamburg; C. Clark & Co., Bordeaux; Rosenkii.de Brothers, Christianssand ; Lowe Brothers, Civita Vecchia ; William Miller, Florence and Leghorn ; Charles Figoli, Genoa; James Glasgow & Co., Gibraltar; Mascarenhas it Co., Lisbon; Thomas MacCulloch & Som, Malaga; William J affray, Almeria; Dart & Co., Valencia and Denia; O. F. GoLLCHER, M.-ilta ; T. O. Neilson, Algiers; Cesar Fda, Tunis; Fleming & Co., Ale.xandria; Jules Frisch, Marseilles; Henkv John Ross and F. Tagliavia & Co , Messina; Holme & Co., Naples; Peter Tagli.wia, Palermo; Roubier & Broom- head, Paris ; MacBean&Co., Rome ; De Waal&Voorrips, Rotterdam ; Gkeenham & Allodi, Trieste ; Charles D. Milesi, Venice; Stewart, Martin, & Adams, 5, East India Avenue, London ; or to HANDYSIDE & HENDERSON, 47, Union Street, Glasgow, and Foyle Street, Londonderry. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. ALLAN" LINE OF MAIL STEAMERS, Under Contract with the Government of Canada for the Conveyance of the Canadian and United States Mails, Running in connection with the Grand Trunk and other Railways, and forwarding Passengers on easy terras to all Stations in Canada and the Western States. S.S. Sarmatian. Scandinavian. Prussian. Peruvian. Nestorian. Hibernian. Nova Scotian. Germany. Ottawa. Norway. Polynesian. S.S. Austrian. Moravian. Corinthian. N. American. Caspian. European. St. David. Sweden. St. Andrew. St. Patrick. Circassian. SAIL FROM LIVERPOOL TO QUEBEC EVERY TUESDAY AND THURSDAY, Calling at LONDONDERRY to embark Mails and Passengers. Cabin Fare — £jS i8s. and £15 15s., according to position of State-room ; and FROM GLASGOW TO QUEBEC EVERY TUESDAY, Calling at DUBLIN to embark Passengers. Cabin Fare— £13 13.^. FROM QUEBEC TO LIVERPOOL. EVERY SATURDAY, Calling at LONDONDERRY to land Mails and Passengers. Cabin Fare — 80 Dollars and 70 Dollars. The Steamers of this Line are well known for their rapid passages. The Saloon and sleeping accommodation is unsurpassed for elegance and comfort, and the style of living is all that one could wish. Cabin Fare, however, does not include Wines and Liquors, but thev can be obtained on board on the usual terms. THROUGH TICKETS can be issued to all parts of Canada and the United States. BAGGAGE taken from the Ocean Steam-ships to the Railway Cars free of expense- RETURN TICKETS issued on favourable terms. The attention of travellers to and from the WESTERN STATES is specially directed to this route. * i • During the Winter Months — from the begmning of November until the first week in April -the Steamers go to Portland instead of Quebec, the same Railway facilities being in operation there for Through Booking to all parts of Canada and the .States. The route via Portland should specially commend itself to travellers to and from the EASTERN STATES. F(jr further particulars apply in Portland and Montreal to Hugh and Andrew Allan ; in Quebec, to Allans, Rae & Co. ; in Havre, to John M. Currie, 21, Quai d'Orleans ; in Paris, to Gust aye Bossange, 25, Quai Voltaire ; in Antwerp, to Aug. Schmitz & Co.; in Rotterdam, to G. P. Ittmann & ZooN or RuYS & Co.; in Hamburg, to W. r;iBsnN & Hugo ; in Belfast, to Charley & Malcolm ; in London, to Montgomerie S: Greenhorne, 17, Gracechurch Street ; in Glasgow, to James & Alex. Allan, 70, Great Clyde Street ; or to ALLAN BROTHERS AND CO., Alexandra Buildings, James Street, Liverpool. The Steamers of this Company also run, at stated intervals, between LIVERPOOL and BALTIMORE. U.S. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. CUNARD LINE. FROM LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK, BOSTON, MEDITERRANEAN, FRANCE, ETC. THE Parthia Algeria Abyssinia Aleppo . Atlas Batavia Calabria China . Cuba . Hecla . Java . . Kedar . Malta . Marathon Morocco Palestine British Queen Balbec . . . . Ca/>i. IValson. Capt. Lc Mcssiirier. Capt. Mains. . Capt. Brozonc. . . Capt. Gill. Capt. Smverby. Capt. McMickan. Capt. Alacaulay. . Capt. Moodie. . . Capt. Bell. . Capt. Martyn. Capt. Muir. Capt. McDcrwall. . Capt. Sffiuerby. Capt. jfohn Leitch. . Capt. Kelly. . Capt. Scott. . Capt. Stctuart. Stromboli Penguin Raven Wolf. Llama Buffalo Camel Racoon Bear . Olympus Palmyra Russia . Samaria . Scotia . Siberia . Sidon Tarifa . Tripoli . Capt. Drinkwater. Capt. McMickan . Capt. Archibald. . Capt. Campbell. Capt. /Rankin. Capt. Mc Piter son. . Capt. Davies . Capt. Alacaulay. Capt. Small. Capt. Edmondson. Capt. Bro'ii'iie. Capt. Cook. . Capt Billifige. . . . Capt. iJott. Capt. y. P/arriso/i. . Capt. Pritchard. Capt. Murphy. Capt. Mouland. Appointed by Her Majesty's Postmaster-General to sail for America EVERY TUESDAY AND EVERY SATURDAY. STEAMERS FOR NEW YORK, carrying Her Majesty's Mails and Cabin Passen- gers only, from Liverpool on Saturdays. Fares : — First Cabin, ^26 ; Second Cabin, p,iZ. STEAMERS for NEW YORK and BOSTON, from Liverpool on Tuesdays. Thursdays, and Saturdays. Fares : — 15 Guineas, 17 Guineas, or 21 Guineas. Steerage at Reduced Rates. STEAMERS for GIBRALTAR, MALTA, SYRA, CONST.'VNTINOPLE, .^.nd SMYRNA, once every Three Weeks. Fares : — From Liverpool to Gibraltar, ^10 ; to Malta, .£15 ; to -Syra, ;£iS ; to Constantinople, .£20; to Smyrna, .^23 ; or, for the Round Voyasje out and home, £i,o. STEAMERS for GIBRALT.'VR, GENOA, LEGHORN, and NAPLES, once every Three Weeks- Fares: — From Liverpool to Gibraltar, £,\o; to Genoa. £,\t, \y.\ to Leghorn, £,\i, 14.?. ; to Naples, ^15 15^. ; or, for the Round Voyage out and home. ^40. .STEAMERS for GIBRALTAR, PALERMO. MESSINA, CORFU, ANCONA. TRIESTE, AND VENICE, once every Month. Fares : — From Liverpool to Gibraltar. £,\o ; to Palermo, P,\-i 13J. ; to Messina, £,\i, \j,s. ; to Corfu, £,20 ; to Ancona or Trieste. P,ii ; or for the Round Voyage out and home, £,^0. STEAMERS for H.WRK, from Liverpool every Tuesday and Saturday. Fares: — Cabin, £,\ ^s. ; Steerage, 12^. i>d. STE.'^MERS for GI-.ASGOW (calling at Greenock), from Liverpool three times each Week Fares: — Cabin, 12J. 6rf. ; Steerage, dr. STEAMERS for BELFA.ST, carrying her Majesty's Mails, from Glasgow every day (Sundays excepted!. Fares : — Cabin, \is. M. ; Return, 20s. STEAMERS for LONDONDERRY, from Glasgow ever>' Monday and Thursday. Apply at the Company's Office, New York, to Chari.f.s G. Franxklv.n, Agent : at the Company's Office, Boston, to James Alexander, Agent ; in Hahfa.\, .to William Cunard ; in Havre, to Burns & Mac Iver, 21, Quai d'Urlcans ; in Paris, to Bi-rns & Mac U fu, 12. Place de la Bourse; in London, to Henry Boggs, 5, St. Helens Place, Bishopsgate Street ; in Dundee, to G. & J. Burns, Baltic Street ; in Glasgow, to (;. 6t J. Burns, 30, Jamaica Street ; in Greenock, to William Sinclair, Excise Buildings ; in Belfast, to Gf.orge McTear & Son, Donegal Quay ; in Queenstown, to D. & C- Mac Iver ; in Liverpool, to D. & C. MAC IVER, 8, Water Street. 8 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. ROYAL MAIL LINE FROM SOUTHAMPTON. The magnificent Clyde-built Steamers of THE NORTH GERMAN LLOYD. Horse- Horse- Tons, power. Tons, power. Rhein 3000 700 Main 3000 700 DONAU 3000 700 Berlin 2500 500 Baltimore 2500 500 Frankfurt 2500 500 Hannover 2500 500 Bremen 3000 700 New York 3000 700 Hansa 3500 700 America 3000 700 Hermann 3000 700 deut.schland 30oo 70o Union 3000 700 Weser 3000 700 KoELN 2500 500 are appointed to leave SOUTHAMPTON FOR NEW YORK DIRECT every Tuesday afternoon, at 2 o'clock, under Mail contract with Her Majesty's Government. Fares from Sotdhampton to New York, First Class, £27,. Second Class, jQ\t,. SOUTHAMPTON TO BALTIMORE DIRECT on every alternate Saturday. Cabin fare, ;^i8. SOUTHAMPTON TO THE WEST INDIES once a Month. This line will be opened in October, 1870, FROM HAVRE TO NE^V ORLEANS {calling at Havana) on every alternate Saturday during the Season. Through fares from London via Southajnpton, First Class, ^£21 10s. Steerage, jQg. Agents in London : Keller, Wallis, & Postlethwaite, 16 & 17, King William St., E.C. Phillipps, Graves, Phillipps &Co., St. Dunstan's House, Idol Lane, E.C. Kg&n\.s \n Soutkampion Keller, Wallis, and Postlethwaite. Paris and Havre. .... Lherbette, Kane and Co. Ne7v York Oelrichs and Co., Broad Street. Baltimore A. SCHUMACHER, and Co. New Orleans Ed. F. Stockmeyer. Havana ..^ H. Upmann and Co. APPLETO^•'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEXTS. 9 WILLIAMS AND GUION, 63, Wall Street, New York. ALEX. S. PETRIE and Co., II, O/d Broad Street, London. GUION AND Co., II, Riunford Street, Liverpool. Travellers and Commercial Credits issued available in any part of Europe, India, and the United States. AGENTS OF THE LIVERPOOL AND GREAT WESTERN STEAM-SHIP COMPANY Carrying the United States' Mails between NEW YORK AND LIVERPOOL, {callhig at Qiicciistowii). MANHATTAN, Capt. Forsyth. NEVADA, Capt. Green. MINNESOTA, Capt. Whinneray. NEBRASKA, Capt. Guard. COLORADO, Capt. Freeman. WISCONSIN, Capt. Williams. IDAHO, Capt. Price. WYOMING, Capt. Jones. These Steamers are large, of full power, and have six water- tight compartments. The Saloons and State-rooms are all on deck, thus securing perfect ventilation and light. FROM New York, every Wednesday. Passage, ^80, gold. Liverpool, every Wednesday. Passage, 18 guineas. 10 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. UNITED STATES MAIL LINE Between HAMBURG and NE\A/' YORK, Calling outwards at Havre, and returning via Plymouth and Cherbourg. The magnificent Clyde-built Mail Steamers of THE HAMBURG AMERICAN PACKET COMPANY— TONS. H. H. TONS. H. P. Thuringia . • • 3500 800 Saxonia . . . . 3000 600 Silesia . . • • 3500 800 Bavaria . . . . 2800 600 Holsatia • 3500 800 Teutonia . . . 2800 600 Westphalia • 3500 800 Borussia . . • 2500 600 Cimbria . . 3000 750 Germania . . . 3000 800 Hammonia . . 3000 750 Vandalia . . . 3000 800 AUemannia . . 3000 700 Are appointed to leave as follows ; — From Hamburg every Wednesday morning. From Havre every Saturday morning. From New York every Tuesday, noon. Prices of Passage: — I St Class. From Hamburg to New York . . 165 Prussian thalers. From Havre to New York . . . 600 Francs. From Paris to New York . . . 615 Francs. From New York to Plymouth, Cherbourg, London, or Hamburg (gold) 120 dols. (gold) 72 dols. From New York to Paris . . ,, i26'75 dols. ,, 77 dols, 2nd Class. 100 Prussian thalers. 370 Francs. 380 Francs. HAMBURG HAVANA NEW ORLEANS LINE. CaUingat Havre outwards and homewards ONCE A MONTH DURING THE SEASON. Prices of Passage: — I St Class i8o Prussian thalers. ,, 660 francs. ,, 675 francs. ,, 150 dols. (goldj. From Hamburg to Havana or New Orleans . From Havre to Havana or New Orleans From Paris to Havana or New Orleans From New Orleans or Havana to Havre or Hamburg . LINE TO THE WEST INDIES. From Hamburg, 24th ; from Grimsby, 27th ; from Havre, 30th, of each month. To St. Thomas, Laguayra, Puerto Cabello, Curasao, Colon, Santa Maria, Sabanilla, and from Colon on the 4th and 5th of each month. To Curasao, Puerto Cabello, Laguayra, Trinidad (Port Spain), Plymouth, Havre and Hamburg. Prices of Pass.\ge :— ist Class. 250 Prussian thalers. ^33 steriing. 900 francs. From Hamburg to St. Thomas . . . . . From Grimsby to St. Thomas . . . . . From Havre to St. Thomas ...... From Hamburg to Laguayra, Puerto Cabello, Cura5ao, and Colon (Aspinwall) . . . . . From Grimsby to Laguayra, Puerto Cabello, &c &c. From Havre to Laguayra, Puerto Cabello, &c. &c. To Plymouth, Havre, or Hamburg from Colon, Curagao, Puerto Cabello, or Laguayra .... From Trinidad (Port Spain; ...... 285 Prussian thalers. £3% steriing. 1,100 francs. 190 Spanish dollars. '65 AGENCIES. Hamburg, August Bolten : London, Plymouth and Southampton, Smith, Sundius S: Co. ; Havre and Paris, A. P.ronstrom & Co. : Cherbourg, Ad. Bonfils& Fils ; New York, Kunhardt & Co. and Richard Boas ; New Orleans, Williams, Rui-ERTI & Co. ; Havana, D. Erdmann ; Colon (Aspinwall) and Panama, J. Furth & Co. APPLErO^^'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMESTS. 11 INMAN LINE. THE LIVERPOOL, NEW YORK, AND PHILADELPHIA STEAMSHIP COMPANY'S Full-Powered Clyde-Built Iron Screw Steamships STEAMKK. CAI'IAIN. |.STKA.M1.K. CATIAIN. City of Montreal . . (Biiikling.) : City of New York . . Phillips. City of Brussels . . J. Kennedy City of Brooklyn . . 6". Brooks. City of Paris . J. iMirchoiise. City of Antwerp . . . R. Leitch City of London . . //. Tidbits. City of Baltimore . Ddamotte. City of Manchester . Jones. City of Dublin . . J. Evnon. City of Cork . . . . K. Allen. City of Limerick . //'. A'. Phillips. Etna G. Lock head. City of Halifax . IV. Jamieson. City of Washington 7'. C. Jones. \ City of Durham . A. Mathieson. ARE AI'l'OIXTED TO SAIL FROM NEW YORK FOR LIVERPOOL ( Touching at Oneenstoro!, ) Every Saturday and alternate Tuesday /mm Pier 45, North Ki-.er. RATES OF PASSAGE. Cabin, payable in gold. I Steerage, payable in currency. To Liveijiool or Queenslosvn . S75 To Liverpool or Queenstown . S30 ,, London 80 1 ,, London 35 ,, Paris 90 I ,, Paris, Sweden, or Norway 38 ,, Havre, Hamburg, Rotterdam, 1 ,, Havre, Hamburg, Rotterdam, Antwerp 85 I or Antwerp 35 Cabin Passengers will have nothing to provide for the voyage, but Steerage Passengers will have to find their bedding and mess tins. These Steamers carry "Phillips' Patent Fire Annihilators," and are built in water-tight iron sections. An experienced Surgeon is attached to each Steamer. Passage from Liverpool and Queenstown to Halifax, Boston, or New York. — Cabin, Inside Rooms, S75, Outside Rooms, Sioo, Gold. .Steerage, S34, Currency. Children between one and twelve, half fare. Infants under twelve months, in Steerage, S5, Currency. Apply, in Liverpool, to W.m. Inman, at the Head Offices of the Company, 62 and 63, Tower Buildings South, 22 Water Street ; in Glasgow, to Alex. Malcolm, jr., 13 Dixon .Street; in London, to EiVES & Allf.n, 61 King William Street; in Paris, to Jl'LES Decoue, 48 Rue Notre Dame dcs Victoires, Place de la Bourse ; in Havre, to Wood & CoMPANV ; in Hamburg, to Falck & Company ; in Antwerp, to W.m. Inman, No. 50, Quai du Rhin ; in Queenstown, to C. & W. D. Seymour & Co. ; in Philadelphia, to O'DoNNELL & Faulk, Agents, 402 Chesnut Street ; in Boston, to M. S. Creagh, 102, State St. ; in Chicago, to Francis C. Brown, 36 South Clark Street ; in Halifax, N.S., to J. & R. B. Seeton ; in Amsterdam, to Oolgaarut & Bruinier ; in Rotterdam, to Ruvs & Co., & H. Antweilek; in Bremen, to Marschhausen & Co. ; in Gothenburg, to Hfk.man Rods ; in Chnstiania, to H. Heitmann ; in Christiansand, to J. G. Birke- L.\ND ; in Copenhagen, to Peter Marti.n Kulle, 6 Kongensgade ; in Coblenz, to Joh. Ant. Leroy : in >Linnheim, to Conrad Hf.rold, Walther & Von Rf.ckow, J. M. Bielefeld ; in Freiburg, to J. M. Bielefeld ; in Frankfort, O. M., to C. H. Textor ; in Luxemburg, to Anton Rodenhorn, St. Philippsgasse, No. 6 ; in Stuttgart, to Frank & ScHAFFER ; in Vienna, to Rotter & Perschitz, Lcopoldstadt, Taborstrasse, No. 22 ; in Rostock, to Ernst Schroiesow ; and in New York, at the Company's Offices, to JOHN G. DALE, Agent, 15, Broadway. Xro) York, June 11, 1870. 12 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. NATIONAL LINE. Steam from Liverpool to New York. THE NATIONAL STEAM-SHIP COMPANY^ LIMITED, Despatch one of their New, Full-powered, First-class, British, Iron Screw Steam-ships FROM LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK EVERY WEDNESDAY, Calling at QUEENSTOWN the day following. Ships. Capt. Tons. Spain 4000 Egypt Italy . . . France . . The Queen. Holland . . Grace 4000 Grogan 3600 W. H. Thompson . 3571 A. Thomson . . . 3571 Thomas .... 3500 Skips. Capt. Tons. England . . Webster . . • 3307 Erin .... Bragg . . • 3318 Helvetia . . Grigs . . . . • 3318 Pennsylvania G. Lawson . . 2889 Virginia . . Summers . 2887 Denmark . . Andrews . . . 3118 And FROM NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL EVERY SATURDAY. The Saloon Accommodation on board these Steamers is very superior, the State- rooms being unusually large, and situated in the Poop on Deck — the Poop being 1 30 feet long. Rates of Passage from Liverpool or Qiieenstown : — Saloon Passage, 12, 15, and 21 guineas. Return Tickets, 25 guineas. Children under Twelve Years of age. Half-fare. Infants, Free. Passengers Booked to all parts of the United States and Canada at Through Rates. Passengers Booked through fiom Liverpool to Aspinwall and San Francisco, by Pacific Mail Steamers Sailing from New York on 5th and 21st of every Month at Reduced Fares. Also by Rail from New York to San Francisco. Apply in Paris, to John Akthur & Co., 10, Rue Castiglione ; in Brussels, to Thos. SuFFEL, 96, Montague de la Cour ; in Rotterdam, to Wambersie & Son ; m Hamburg, to Louis Scharlach & Co. ; in Antwerp, to A. Strauss ; in Gothenburg, to B. B. Peterson ; in Christiania, to Olaf Svenson ; in Copenhagen, to N. P. Fredericksen ; in Havre, to R. Odinet, 4, Rue de la Chausse'e ; in London, to Smith, Sundius & Co., 17, Gracechurch Street, and Mosses & Mitchell, 55, Gracechurch Street ; in Belfast, to Henrv Gowan, Queen's Square ; in Queenstown, to N. & J. Cummins & Brothers ; in Liverpool, to The national STEAM-SHIP Company, Limited, 21 & 23, Water Street. And in New York, to — F. W. J. HURST, at the Company's Offices, 69, Broadway. APPLKTON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 13 C( G Ti OMPAGNIE UENERALE 1 RANSATLANTIQUE, 4, RUE DE LA PAIX, PARIS. I FRENCH MAIL LINE FROM HAVRE AND BREST TO NEW YORK, a>uivuf7Trsa. SS. Pereire, Capt. Danri;. SS. Lafayette, Capt. Roussan. SS. Ville de Paris, Capt. Surmont. SS. Europe, Capt. Galland. SS. Saint Laurent, Capt. Lemaric. SS. Ville du Havre, Capt. X. Z)aUs of Sailing for 1871 , and Jicrcaftcr rjcry fourtccii days. FROM HAVRE. FROM BREST. FROM NEW YORK. 1 Thursday, 8th June. Saturday loth June. Saturday, ist July. 22nd do. 24th „ fi 15th „ 6th July. 8th July. 29th „ Friday, 2ISt „ 22nd ., i> i2th August. 4th August. 5th August. It 26th i8th „ 19th ,, >i 9th September. ist September. 2nd September. ty 23rd 15th 16th ,, 91 7th October. 29th ,, 30th tl 2I.St „ 13th October. 14th October. >1 4th November. 27th ,, 28th tt 18th loth November. nth November. f> 2nd December. 24th „ 25th „ »» i6th Thursday , 7th December. 9th December. f} 30th „ « 2ISt „ 23rd „ »1 13th January, 1872. Fares from Havre or Brest to New York, and vice versa. First class cabin, ^^28 or 700 francs. Second class cabin, £14 i6s. or 370 francs. Third class cabin, jCg 12s. or 240 francs. No Steerage or Emigrants taken. Children from three to twelve years, half fare. Through fares from Paris to New York, (via Havre or Brest,) and z'ice versa. First class cabin and Railway, ^29 or 725 francs. Second class cabin and Railway £1$ Ss. or 3S5 francs. Third class and Railway, ^10 or 250 francs. II. FRENCH MAIL LINE FROM SAINT NAZAIRE TO WEST I N D I E S , «/«?' vice versa. SS. France. SS. Nouveau Monde. SS. Florida. SS. Pacifique. £>aifs of Sailing from Saint Nazaire. SS. Atlantique. SS. Washington. SS. Martinique. SS. Ville de St. Nazaire. SS. Panama. SS. Louisiane. SS. Guadaloupe. SS. X. now building. On the Zth and 14/// of each tnonth. ist class. 2nd class. 3rd class Francs. Francs. Francs. 965 825 500 For Saint Thoma.s, Havana, Vera Cruz, Tampico, New Orleans, Puerto Rico, Le Cap. San Jago (Cuba), Jamaica, Guadaloupe, Martinique, Santa Marta, Colon, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Grenada, Trinid.ad, Demcrara, Paramaribo, Cayenne, Laguayra, Puerto Cabello, connection at Panama for Ports of Central America, North Pacific to San Fran- cisco, and thence to Japan and China, South Pacific to Valparaiso, Peru, Equator, &c. , Fares from Saint Nazaire to following Ports, and vice versa. To Saint Thomas, Guadaloupe, Martinique, ) St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Grenada,/- Trinidad. 7 To Havana, New Orleans, Santa Marta, ) Colon, Demerara, Paramaribo, Cay- > enne, Laguayra, Puerto Cabello. ) To Vera Cruz and Tampico .... To Jamaica, Le Cap iHaiti), San Yago (Cuba) To Puerto-Rico Children under 3 years Jree, over ^ io & years quarter/are, over 8/012 half/are. For freight, passage and further information apply to the Company's office, 12, Boulevard des Capucines, Paris ; ^VILl.I.^M Isklin & Co. ; and Aug. Pierre, Havre ; BouRBEAU, Saint Nazaire ; Kevegu Villefkkon, Brest; Galbraith, Stringer, Pem- broke & Co., 8, Austin Friars, London, E. C. ; Geo. Mackenzie, 58, Broadway, New York. 965 SCO 1240 HOC 600 1050 92s 500 1000 875 Soo 14 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. WHITE -¥t- LINE. NEW YORK, CORK, & LIVERPOOL. NEW AND FULL-POWERED STEAMSHIPS. (T/ii: Six largest in the World.) Oceanic. Baltic. Pacific. Atlantic. Arctic. Adriatic. 6,000 tons burden. 3,000 h.-p. each. Sailing from New York on Saturdays, Liverpool on Thursdays, and Cork Harbour on the following day. Passenger accommodations unrivalled, combining Safety, Speed, and Comfort. Main Saloon (82 ft. by 41 ), Smoking-room, Ladies Boudoir, Bath Rooms (hot and cold). State Rooms, &c., in midship section, where least motion is felt. Communication, by means of electric bells, between Steward's department and each State-room, to which also fresh water is "laid on." Table excellent, and Wines (extra) of the choicest vintages. The Ships are well warmed, and the ventilation is perfect. Side lights of extra size. Rates : Saloon, $2>o gold ; Excursion, $14.0 gold ; Steerage, $^0 currency ; ^-^T) pre-paid Certificates. For further information, apply to OCEANIC STEAM NAVIGATION CO., 19, Broadway, New York. J. H. SPARKS, Agent, or to Messrs. ISM AY, IMRIE & CO., 10, Water Street, Liverpool, Managers, and 7, East India Avenue, London. Messrs. BOWLES, BROS., & CO., Paris and London. DE VRIES & CO., Amsterdam. H. GENESTAL, Havre. HUDIG & BLOKHUYSEN, Rotterdam. J. HARTMAN & CO., Antwerp. APPI.KTONS CiUlDE BOOK, Al)yEnTlSKME^TS. 15 GREAT MAIL ROUTE BETWEEN CALIFORNIA, JAPAN, AND CHINA. WITH CONNECTIONS FOR KUROPE. SOUTH AMERICA, SANDWICH ISLANDS, AND AUSTRALIA. '' I ^HE new and splendid Steamers of the Pacific Mail _|^ Steamship Company, built expressly for the ICastern service, run in Scliedule time between San Francisco, Yokohama, Hong Kong, and Shanghai, touching at Hiogo and Nagasaki (Japan), and connect at San Francisco with the trains of the (ireat Pacific Railway, despatched daily for all points in the United States and Canadas, and connecting on the Atlantic Coast with the various Steamship lines for all European Ports. PRESENT THROUGH FARES. 1st Class. 2nd Class. kohama to New York ^362.50 $^35-oo ,, „ Liverpool 442.50 160.00 „ „ Southampton or Bremen . 482.50 171.00 „ „ Brest or Havre 502.50 From Hong Kong, Shanghai, or Nagasaki, First Class ,^50, Second Class ,'^(15 additional. From Hiogo, First Class ^'40, Second Class ^15 addi- tional. Children not over 12 years. Half fare ; under 5 years Free on Pacific Railway and Steamers. On European Steamers children under 6 years pay quarter fare. 250 Pounds of Baggage allowed each Adult, Free. Berths in Sleeping cars and Meals on Railways charged extra. Connections made at San F'rancisco for Ports of Australia, Sandwich Islands, and British Columbia, also for Central and South America ; and at Hong Kong for Ports of India, Batavia, &c. &:c. For Passage Freight or further information, apply to Messrs. H. St.\rr & Co.,London ; Messrs. Eldridge .and Irwin, San Francisco ; the various agencies of the Pacific Mail Steainship Company in China and Japan, or at the Company s Offices, 59 and 61, IVall Street, New York. 16 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. AMSTERDAM. AMSTEL HOTEL XAC JM2 urrrMAt This splendid Hotel, situated near the Rhenish Rail- way Station, the Crystal Palace, and the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, built five years ago, recommends itself to travellers by its proverbial cleanliness, elegant accommodations, and great comfort. The table is first rate and the wines, being directly imported, are excellent. The attendance is exceptionally good and the charges are very moderate. The immense dining-room, the breakfast-rooms, the restaurant, the reading and bathing-rooms, the stables, and moreover, the exceedingly handsome and cheerful views of the city and the river, all combine to make this Hotel answer to any wants of our time. J. A. V. COLLOSEUS, G&ant. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 17 AIX LES BAINS. GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, Proprietor— M. BERNASCON. First-class Hotel, admirably situated near the Baths and the Casino. Beautiful view of the lake and moun- tains ; Pleasure Garden ; large Dining Hall ; large and small Apartments ; a Chalet, beautifully furnished, for the use of families ; in a word, this Hotel leaves nothing to be desired in any way. Omnidus and Carriages to every Train. Carriages. Livery Stables, etc. ANTWERP. PRIZE MEDALS DIPLOMA OF EXCELLENCE In the last fidgian Exhibitions of In the Exhibition of Ainstcrdam, 1826. 1835, 1841, (Sr' 1847, 1869. J. H, VAN BELLINGEN & MAX^ SUREMONT, Linen Market, No. 9, (Marche au LiNGE, No. 9), {Near the Cathedral.) The oldest Manufactory of the celebrated Antwerp Washing Black Silks, so much esteemed in Europe and America. Taffetas Gros Grain, Gros Reps, Royal, &c., and the Splendid Faille Silk for Dresses, Neckhandkerchiefs, &c.. &c. .1 B APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEME^^TS. ANTWERP. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE Place Verte. Next to the Post Office and opposite the Cathedral, the best situation in the city. No pains have been spared to make this favourite old family hotel one of the most comfortable on the Continent. It is under the immediate supervision of the pro- prietor, whose extensive knowledge of the Continent enables him to give much valuable information to travellers. Excellent faMe dViofe at 5 o'clock. Wines of the best vintages. ANTWERP. HOTEL DE LA PAIX, Marche aux Souliers and Rue DES MeNUISIERS, Is a comfortable family hotel, and is in a central position, being close to the Post and Telegraph Offices, Exchange, Cathedral, Theatres, &c. Numerous saloons and bedrooms. Two large sa//es d manger. First-class table d^hote at 5 o'clock. Choice cellar of wines. Moderate prices. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 19 ANTWERP. ANCIENT AND MODERN PAINTINGS. DE LE HAYE, BROTHERS, No. 3, Rue des Emaux. 20 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BADEN-BADEN. 1871. T/ie Season comme^ices the ist of May and continues to the ist of November. The Official Strangers' List (Badeblatt) shows that more than sixty thousand Tourists, belonging to all classes of society, visit Baden every year. The Programme for 187 1 is very attractive. A splendid full Orchestra of Sixty Artists, among which are Soloists of high reputation, performs three times a day, and alternately with Military Bands. Grand Concerts and Matinees Musicales. Grand Balls, Reunions, and Children's Balls throughout the season. German and Italian Operas. J oh. Strauss and the Ballet from Vienna. Rural Festivals. Races. Pigeon-shooting match. Grand battues and other shooting parties. Good fishing in the Rhine, Mourg, Oos, &c. &c. HOTEL DE COUR DE BADE, BADISCHER HOF, {Not to be confounded -with the Hotel de la Ville de Bade opposite the Railway Station.) A first-rate and large Establishment, with extensive Gardens, Warm, Mineral, and other Baths ; enjoying a well-merited reputation for its great comfort and attention. It is patronised by the most distinguished families. Manager, Mr. F, ZIEGLER. APl'LETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 21 BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL VICTORIA. FRANZ GROSHOLZ, Proprietor. This favourite and first-class Hotel is one of the finest in Europe, having Twenty-eight Balconies and Two Turrets, with three sides front ; is principally frequented by Knglish and American travellers. Its situation, on the Promenade, near the Kursaal, Theatre, and Trinkhall, commands one of the most picturesque views in Baden. It contains 140 Bed-rooms and Sitting-rooms. The Table d'Hote and Wines are reputed as the very best on the continent. The house is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor and his Son, who, having lived long in England and America, are perfectly acquainted with all the wants and customs of those countries, and endeavour by the most stnct attention, to merit the continued patronage of English and American visitors. " London Times," "Galignani," " New York Herald," and other Newspapers taken in. Breakfast — Coffee, is. ; Tea, is. -zd. Table d'Hote at i o'clock and at s o'clock, at moderate prices. Rooms from one florin and upwards. Fixed prices for everything. Reading-room with Piano for the use of visitors. The Proprietor will spare no pains to secure all the comfort possible to his guests, in order to deserve the confidence of English and American travellers. BADEN-BADEN. HOTEL DE HOLLANDE AND DEPENDANCE. AU BEAU SEJOUR. A. ROESSLER, Proprietor. This favourite and first-clxss Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The Hotel and Dependance consist of one hundred and sixty sleeping apartments, elegant sitting-rooms, and a garden for the use of visitors. Extensive and airy dining-room, and a comfortable public sitting-room, with piano and library. It is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the most strict attention and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued patronage of English and American visitors. English and American newspapers. The Table d'Hote and Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for everything. Rooms from 2j. and upwards. Breakfast \s. 2d. Table cTHdte at One, 2s. 4//. ; at Five, 3J. er will spare no pains to deserve the cc English and American Travellers. Oj>en during the winter. English is spoken. Mr. Roessler will spare no pains to deserve the confidence of English and American Travellers. n APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEl^TS. BALE. THREE KINGS HOTEL Proprietor — A. H. J. WALD. HOTEL OF THE FIRST CLASS. 150 CHAMBERS. Reading Room — Smoking Room — Baths. Eqziipages and every desirable comfort. MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF THE RHINE, THE CITY AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY. APPLETOS'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. '.3 BELFAST. IMPERIAL HOTEL (family and COMMKRCIAL,) DONEGALL PLACE. III Hi 7^ "'^' "^ '*' {II 'k i i ilfi f e f _ IIM The leading Hotel of the North and especially favoured by american travellers. // is elegantly located, has all tnodcrn improvements, including HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS; SUPPLIES DAILY TABLE D'HOTE; Has Omnibuses always in attendance to convey Passengers and their luggage; and affords a principal link of comfort in the chain of travel for Tourists GOING NORTH TO DERKY OR THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 24 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BELLAGIO, ON THE LAKE OF COMO, ITALY. " Peut-^tre le point le phis ravissant de tons les lacs Italiens." — Baedeker. HOTEL AND PENSION GRANDE BRETAGNE. Landlord, A. MELLA. Hotel and Gardens adjoin the Lake, and command a charming view. Prices moderate. N . B . English Church Service in this Hotel twice every Sunday durifig the Season. Telegraph Office. BELLAGIO. ist of May, 1870. OPENING OF HOTEL VILLA GIULIA, (Castle of the King of Belgium.) This Magnificent Villa has just been adapted for an Hotel, under the immediate superintendence of its proprietor, M. A. MELLA, who by his long experience, and his desire of deserving the patronage of English Travellers, will endeavour to render this fine little spot worthy of being visited by English Families, single Travellers, and Tourists. Beautiful Gardens and Parks. Boats and Carriages belonging to the Hotel. English spoken. BERLIN. SCHAEFER & HAUSCHNER, 225, Friedrichsstrasse. Manufactory of Bronze Goods, Gas Fixtures, Candelabras, Petroleum and Oil Lamps and Can- delabras, Harps, Sconces, Hanging Chandeliers, Lamps in the form of Harps, &c. Manufactory of Bronze Trimmings and Ornaments for Furniture, in every colour. Copper-coloured, Oxidized, &c. . /flTNyi f/jTTftNj ^^ffiitv^ f/iA T -o^J i-^nyi/' I'-i^JpJ i-m Foundry of Zinc Goods for use in Buildings. Monuments, Statues, Fountains, Vases, Bap- tisteries, Crucifixes, Chimneys, Balconies, Balus- trades, Capitals, Lattices, Consols, etc. etc. Designs furnished according to instructions sent to us. Every variety of work appertaining to the business promptly done. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEyTS. 25 BERLIN. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE, 2, Place an der Bauacademie, 2. Situated in the finest and most elegant part of the town. Next til the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. Single Travellers and Large Families can be accommodated with entire Suites of Apartments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, c^c, all furnished and carpeted in the best English style. First-rate Table-d'Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. "Times" and "Galignani's Messenger" taken in. Residence of Iler British ^Lijesty's Messengers. R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. BERLIN. RENNAISSANCE SOCIETY FOR CARVING IN WOOD. L. & S. LOVINSON, R. KEMNITZ, 8, Unter den Linden, 8. Specialty: CARVED OAK FURNITURE. BERLIN. EDWARD KUHLSTEIN. MAGASIN, .MANUFACTORY, 38, Behren Strasse, Salzufer, 20, (near the Opera. ) Thiergarten. CARRIAGE MANUFACTORY TO THE Court, I. AND R. H. the Crown Prinxe of Prussia and H. R. H. the Pri Frederick Charles. The most important establishment of the kind in Berlin. BERLIN. HENRY ARTUR, HATTER (by Appointment to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany), 161, GROSSE FRIEDRICHS STRASSE, i6i. The First Hatter of Berlin. Real Paris Establishment. Large Assortment of all kinds of Hats and Bonnets. 26 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BERLIN. C H. STOBWASSER AND CO. MANUFACTORY OF LAMPS AND BRONZES^ WiLHELM StRASSE, qS. I. Magazine, Unter den Linden, 28. II. Magazine, Konigs Strasse, 55. Correspondents — Pattern Stores. Alexandria. . . . H. Gerbel & Co. Amsterdam. . . . Henry Brongers, Warmoesstraat, 572. Athens Frederic Frank. Cologne Ludger Wintem, Agrippa Strasse, 38. Consta7jtinople. . . Rosenthal & Fils, Rue de Venise, 5— 9- Hamburg .... Carl Saenger, Deich Strasse, 11. Kiel F. BURMEISTER. Leipzig Am Markt-Kochs Hof. Malaga Theodor Kluft. Milan C. L. Frank, Monte Napoleone, 5. Paris A. Favier, Rue Faubg. S. Denis, 12. St. Petersburg . . . Wold. Buck, im Hause Simonsen. Smyrna T. M. Stoeckel. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 27 BERLIN. B. SOMMERFELD, LEIPSIGER STRASSE, No. 42, MANUFACTURER OF EMBROIDERIES, The greatest assortment of Sofa Pillows and Cushions, Table Cloths, materials for Upholster- ing Chairs, Jewel cases, Travelling Bags, Slippers Smoking Caps, Purses, &c., &c., begun, and com- pletely finished. Articles arranged with Embroidery. Baskets, Portfolios for writing materials and for newspapers. Cigar Cases, Cigar Boxes, &c. All the materials furnished for Embroidery, Wool, Silk, Pearls, Jet, Chenille, Canvas, Sec. Sec. WHOLESALE AND RETAIL APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BERLIN. Rare and Curious Books. Modern Literature. S. CALVARY & Co. II, OBERWASSER STRASSE, (AND Unter den Linden from October.) Speciality of Philological Literature and Natural Science. Very extensive Stock of good Books. Ca/a/ogues regularly published and supplied to all applying for them. Messrs. C. & Co. have had the honour to supply most of the American libraries and Institutes. BERLIN. A. RADICKE, 54, KOMMANDANTEN STRASSE. Lithography and Fancy Paper Factory. Chromos. Flowers. Scenery in oil colours, plain and embossed. Large assortment for the use of Confectioners and Box-makers. Elegant Valentines. Cotillion Ornaments. Ornamental Letter-paper. BERLIN. RARE AND CURIOUS BOOKS, Modern Foreign Literature. ASHER AND CO. dForeign ^booksellers anti ^ufilisfiers. FINE ARTS, MAPS, GUIDE BOOKS, Etc. Oriental and Philological Works. II, U liter den Linden, Berlin; also 13, Bedford Street, Covent Garden, London. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 29 BERLIN. LOHSE, Purveyor to the Court, 46, JAGER STRASSE, 46. LOHSE'S LILY WATER. Milk of lilies for beautifying the skin. No more pustules or pimples, no more tetters or freckles. The only real preservative against sunburn. The celebrated Lily Water of Lohse analyzed and approved by the Royal Prussian Medical College, recommended by all celebrated physicians, medical colleges, gentlemen and ladies in all parts of the world, as the only remedy, surpassing all other known cosmetics. No discovery has been made which has attained such general favour for the improvement of the skin, the preservation of its freshness, and for giving it a blooming and youthful aspect. Large bottle, 6s. Half bottle, Jj. A large stock of all celebrated Cosmetics, Toilet Soaps, and all articles of English and French manufacture, at London and Paris prices. LOHSE, Purveyor to the Court, 46, JAGER STRASSE, 46. BERLIN. St. Petersburg. Cologne. ALEX. KATSCH, 3<^, Unter den Linden, 3^. Manufactory of Electro-Plated Goods, Tea and Coffee Services, Spoons and Forks, Cruet Stands, &c. &c. MALACHITE. A Large Stock of Canddabras, Clocks, Inkstands, and Ladies' Jewellery. BERLIN. W. KLAAR. BERLIN. GABLONZ, a N. (Bohemia.) EXPORTER OF GLASS JEWELLERY Especially Jets and Glass Buttons, Beads, Collars, and Bonnet Ornaments. 30 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BERLIN. MERCHANT TAILOR, WILHELM MAGNUS, (Late C. HEIMANN & Co.), 20, Unter den Linden, 20, Supplies the best and finest Clothing for Gentlemen. BERLIN. WARMBRUNN QUILITZ, 40, ROSENTHALER STRASSE, 40, Makers of every kind of Chemical, Philosophical, Phar- maceutic, and Photographic Apparatus and Instruments. Complete Catalogues with 1,500 Engravings. BERLIN. F. ANCION & SCHNERZEL, 104, GROSSE FRIEDRICH STRASSE, 104, Manufacturer of every kind of Bamboo and Willow goods — sofas, chairs, children's basket wagons, tables, flower-stands, &c. &c. Baskets in every variety, and for every use — house, lunch, picnic, &c. &c. Every variety of Willow ware made to order. BERLIN. ROBERT THODE & CO., american and english bankers, 171, Friedrichsstrasse, AND AT DRESDEN. Al'PLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, AVyEllTl^EMESTS. 31 BERNE. BERNERHOF HOTEL. This beautiful first class Establishment is the most important and the best situated in the town, A/ two ntimites' walk front the Station and close to the House of Parliament. IT IS SURROUNDED BY A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN, WITH A LARGE TERRACE, AND COMMANDS A FULL VIEW OF THE ALPS. Its superior interior arrangements, the comfort of its Private Apartments, Public Parlours, Reading Saloon, &c., make it the most desirable residence for Families and Single Travellers. Reduced prices for protracted stays and in winter season. 32 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMET^TS. BERNE. MUSICAL BOXES, WOOD CARVINGS, SCULPTURES, &c, &c., OF J. H. HELLER, AT BERNE. Mr. J. H. HELLER, of Berne, Manufacturer of the Celebrated SWISS MUSICAL BOXES, With all the latest Improvements, INVENTOR Of the greatest part of Articles with Music, and PURVEYOR To several Courts, begs to invite the Nobility and Gentry of England travelling in Switzerland to visit his well-known EXTENSIVE ESTABLISHMENT AT BERNE, Where will be found the largest and richest Assortment of his celebrated MUSICAL BOXES, Playing from Four to Eighty-four airs (tunes), with or without Chimes ; Drums, Castagnettes, CELESTIAL VOICES^ MANDOLINES, EXPRESSIVES, &c.; Also Swiss Chalets, Necessaires, Photographic Albums, Glove Boxes, Work Tables and Boxes, Writing Stands, Letter Weights, Cigar Cases, Cigar Holders, Snuff Boxes, &c., ALL WITH MUSIC; Chairs playing when sitting on them, &c. ; further, an extensive assortment of Swiss Sculptures in Wood, Cuckoo Clocks, Drawing-room Clocks (Pendules), Tables, Chairs, &c., as well as every possible variety of objects in this important and beautiful branch of Manufactory Unattained by any other House. ArPLETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMESTS. 33 BEX (Canton de Vaud, Switzerland). GRAND HOTEL DES SALINES, Proprietor — L. FELLER. HYDROPATHY, RUSSIAN BATHS, TURKISH BATHS. Saloon for Pulverised Spray Baths of various Mineral Waters, established after the newest and most perfect systems known. Consulting Doctor — Dr. COSSY, lately House Surgeon to the Paris Hospital. BOLOGNA (Italy). GRAND HOTEL BRUN, This splendid First-class Hotel has enjoyed the best reputation for a great number of years, and nothing has been neglected by Mr. BRUN and more especially by Mr. WELLER, the present Proprietor, to keep up with all the modern improvements, and it now offers, both to Families and Single Persons, good accommodation and comfort, com- bined with moderate charges. Fine Breakfast and Dining-rooms, Smoking-room, Billiard- room, and Reading-room supplied with the " Times" and all the principal papers of Europe. TAe Hotel is under the immediate Superintendence of the Proprietor. GRAND BONN. HOTEL ROYAL. IJiis c.xccUeni Hotel, one ol Uie Dest on llie Contineiit, p.itronised by H. ]VL King Leopold of Belgium, and by the Royal Family of England, is admirably situated on the banks of the Rhine and commands the most beautiful view of the Seven Mountains, facing the landing-place of the' Rhine steamers, and near the Railway Station. It cont.iins every comfort with moderate charges. Large English garden. Advantageous arrange- ments for winter. H. ERMEKIEL, Proprietor. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEl^TS. THE BATHS OF BORMIO IN THE VALTELLINE. Seasoti front May to October. The baths of Bormio, celebrated already in early ages, are by splendid high-roads connected with the Tyrol, the lake of Como and Switzerland. The sanative powers of their waters, and the comfortable accommodations of the establishment, as well as the magnificent site, where strengthening Alpine air is to be enjoyed under the Italian sky, make them worthy of commendation, not only to invalids, but to such people as wish for agreeable refreshing air. The hot mineral waters of Z^" Reaumur are prescribed and wonderfully efficacious in the cure of gout, rheumatism, of hysterics or other ladies' disorders, moreover for scrofula, cutaneous and pulmonary diseases, chronical inflammations of the internal parts of the body, for the cicatrizing of gun-shot wounds, etc. The scenery round Bormio, that for beauty and grandeur has been ex- ceeded by no other bathing-place in Europe, affords a never ceasing and ever new series of excursions, and in such a degree that Tourists and friends of Alpine nature might not easily find out a place better suited to serve as head-quarters for the most various and most delightful rambles. The famous Stelvio road just issuing at Bormio with the magnificent neighbourhood, the numerous valleys, little known to this day, offering to view, now pastoral, lovely scenes, then highly romantic or awful prospects, further the mys- terious, majestic glaciers, that but lately have been partly explored, then a great many gigantic, seldom or never ascended summits of the surrounding mountains, — all together afford the most charming and most favourable trips for Tourists. " The Central Alps," by J. Ball " Alpine Journal," I. and II. BRUSSELS. MODERN PAINTINGS. HENRY LE ROY et Fils, 83, MONTAGNE DE LA COUR, 83, Have in their Gallery a large collection of Modern Paintings by the best artists of every school. This House is justly recotumended for fair dealing and reasonable prices. BRUSSELS. BRUSSELS HOUSE AGENCY, WINE MERCHANT, ETC. BASS'S PALE ALE, GUINESS' STOUT IN BOTTLES; FINE SHERRIES, MADEIRA, AND OLD PORT, j FURNISHED ilS APARTMENTS. FAMILIES intending to reside in BRUSSELS, and requiring FURNISHED APARTMENTS, may obtain the fullest information, by letter, or on personal appli- cation, to Mr. STEVENS, General Commission Agent, at his Office, 24, Rue de Namur. , T.'S.—Mr. Stevens is Clerk to Mr. Drury's English Church. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 35 BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE BELLEVUE. E. DREMEL, PROPRIETOR. This unrivalled Establishment is beautifully situated on the Place Royale, the finest part of the city, adjoining the Palace of the King. It has one front upon f/ie Place, another upon the Rue Royak, the principal street of the city, and another upon the beautiful park, on which are the Royal Palace, the Palace of the Prince of Orange, and the Houses of Parliament. This establishment ranks as the best in Brussels, and one of the best in Europe. Its table d'hote is justly celebrated, and its wines are unsurpassed. English, American, German, and French journals may be found in the Reading Room. ELEGANT CARRIAGES FOR VISITING WATERLOO AND OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST, LiBERi\L Arrangements for the "Winter Months. S6 APPLETOWS GUWE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BRUSSELS. GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE, Place du Trone, 3. Proprietors — J.-B. LEBLAU and Co. SITUATED IN THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND HEALTHIEST PART OF THE TOWN, Near the Palaces of the King, the Industry, AND THE Museum ; THE PRINCIPAL MONUMENTS, THE PARC, THE BOULEVARDS AND THE FAVOURITE WALKING PLACES. This Hotel, by its excellent situation, the luxury and superiority of its Furniture, as well as its punctual attendance, offers to Families and Tra- vellers all the comfort and advantages they can wish for. Agreements are entered into, under very moderate conditions, with Families and Travellers who wish to make a prolonged stay in the capital. Chambers from 2 francs per Day. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 37 BRUSSELS. E"- DE PACHTERE, FURNISHER TO THE COURT, 25, RUE ROYALE, Near the Colonne du Coxgres. This is the largest and the most renowned House in the City for the manufacture of Cloafe0, ^Dinner & T5aU 2:)rc0.se0, Costumes, £Dpera Cloaks, & Crousscaur. (Genre Worth de Paris.) An immense assortment of INDIA SHAWLS, which are imported direct by this House and Sold at Paris Trices. SILKS. — Black Silks, colours guaranteed, of the House of BONNET and CO., of Lyons. WJwlesale and Retail. 38 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BRUSSELS. LACE MANUFACTORY. 0. DE VERGNIES & SOEURS, 26, Rue des Paroissiens, 26, {Near the Cathedral of St. Giidtile.) Ladies desirous of purchasing the genuine BRUSSELS AND VALENCIENNES LACE, OR MECHLIN POINT, are invited to visit the Celebrated Estabhshment of Mr. O. DE Vergnies ET SceuRS, 26, Rue des Parois- siens, near the Cathedral of St. Gudule, where they may witness the process of manufacturing Lace of the finest texture, and inspecting an unrivalled Stock of Royal Black Lace,, and various articles of the Richest and Newest Patterns, at fixed prices. This House is the recipient of the Prize Medal of the Great Exhibition, the Gold Medal of the Belgian Government, and was awarded the first medal at the late Universal Exhibition at Paris. Visitors should be particular in not mistaking the House, or confounding this Establishment with others, which may be easily avoided, AS THE NAME IS ON THE DOOR. M. O. De Vergnies et Sceurs, Successors of Mr. Vanderkelen-Bresson, who was also awarded the First Class Medal at the Paris Exhibition. AVPLETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEME^TS. rjg BRUSSELS. ALFRED CABU, I AND 3, Galerie du Roi, {Passage St. Hubert). The attention of English and American travellers is called to the large and choice stock of READY-MADE CLOTHING FOR GENTLEMEN AND CHILDREN always to be found at this Establishment. Clothing made to order, in the best style. Riditig-habifs. Liveries. English Waterproof garmejiis. N. B. This Establishment is in the centre of the Galleries. BRUSSELS. CH. BULS, (Soir)$mit{), Marche aux herbes, 103. A large assortment of Jewellery in the latest styles and at much less than Paris prices. Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, Sapphires, Pearls, Turquoises, all at strictly moderate prices. Mr. Bids uses in the manufacture of all his articles, gold of 18 carats. 40 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BRUSSELS. FRANS. DOIZE & CO. Furnishers of S. A. R. Madame the Countess of Flajiders. Brussels: Fosse-aux-Loups, 64. Lyons : Rue Royale, 4. Zurich : Aregrestinerhof, 4 & 10. Silks (unies) Novelties, Velvets, Gazes de Chambery, India Shawls, French Cashmere Shawls, Lama Laces, etc., etc. Wholesale and Retail. Purchasers may rely on finding here an assortment of goods such as can only be found in an establishment of the first class, CHERBOURG, FRANCE. GRAND HOTEL DE L' UNIVERS. All Establishment of the First Class. APPLETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADIERTISEMENTS. 41 CHRISTIANIA (NORWAY). THE CHRISTIANIA CARRIOLE COMPANY Is establishfed in order to carry on, upon a larger scale, the business in which Afr. Bennett has been engaged for the last nine years, viz. that of providing Travellers in Norway with Conveyances, &c., to be purchased again, when brought back, at a fixed price. The Company has, during the past winter, made Eighty new Carrioles, and other travellers' requisites in proportion ; and there will be a constant endeavour on its part to attend to the convenience of visitors in Norway in every possible way, and afford them any information or assistance they may require. CHRISTIANIA, ^i/i April, 1859. F. Andrese.v, H. Christophersen J. Ebuell, M Directors. T. BENNETT, Manager. T. Bennett begs to inform the public that, for the convenience of travellers who may wish to leave by the first train, or to remain as short a time as possible in Chrisiiania, he will generally be on the Quay on the arrival of the Steamers with a Conveyance for the Luggage of those who purpose fitting themselves out at his House. He will also cash Notes, supply Small Change, Preserved Meats, Provisions of all sorts, Maps, and other requisites for travelling. Travellers are recommended not to bring Provisions with them, 'if they wish to avoid delay at the Custom Hou.se. T. Bennett keeps on hand a large assortment of Views, Photographs, Engravings, &c. COBLENZ. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. Proprietor— Mr. M. HOCHE. !iV A^l..;';.. .A >V.^/). L, A.JU^ }h ^4i^^f This favourite and first-class Hotel, the most important and modem at Coblenz, is pleasantly situate, close to the landing-place of the steam-boats, facing the Rhine, and commanding a most beautiful view of the Castle of Ehrcnbrcitstein. This magnificent Establishment is fitted up in a very superior style, and conducted in a manner to deserve the patronage it enjoys with English and American Travellers, who will find it a most desirable residence for comfort and accommodation which nothing can surpass, and for civility and attention. 42 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. COLOGNE. HOTEL DISCH, BRIDGE STREET. This first-class well known Hotel is most centrally situated close to the Cathedral, the Central Railway- Station for Berlin, Paris, Brussels, Calais, and Bonn Railways, the Quay of the Rhine Steamers, the new Tubular Bridge over the Rhine, &c. Superior Accommodation and Comfort will be found here for Families, Tourists, and Gentlemen passing through Cologne en route to or returning from the Rhine, the North of Germany, &c. Messrs. DiSCH and Capellen keep a large assort- ment of the best stock of Rhine and Moselle Wines for wholesale. The Hotel Omnibus conveys Passengers to and from the Railway Stations. APPLETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEXTS. 43 COLOGNE. JOHN MARIA FARINA, %jJL^J^llM J^ I^tI '';■("." J J J. M. FAi t..__tH> ■ijimiiiiiiin||i ■» 'w-^^H "•^' ^^r Opposite the Julichs-Place, THE MOST ANCIENT DISTILLER OF THE EAU DE COLOGNE SINCE 1709. Purveyor to TT. MM. the Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, the King of Prussia, the Emperor of all the Russias, the Prince of Wales, etc., etc. Prize Medals in London 1851 and 1862, and in Oporto 1865, Honourable Mention in Paris 185s and Prize Medal in Paris 1867 [i/ie sole Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne.) CAUTION. — With regard to the great number of manufactures of a so called Eai; DE Cologne carried on by people who succeeded in getting a firm of FARINA in order to be able to sell their article, it is of particular necessity to caution persons who are desirous to purchase my genuine Eau de Cologne, to direct letters to my very exact address: Johann Maria Farina, gegeniiber dem Julichs-Platz (which means opposite the Jiilichs-Place; Cologne, (without addition of any number). Travellers visiting Cologne and intending to buy my genuine article are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners and other parlies who offer their services to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and store are in the same house situated opposite the Jiilichs-Place and nowhere else. It happens namely too frequently that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly half the part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a b.id article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne where waiters, commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one and that I delis'ered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. The only certain way 10 get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally in my own house, opposite the Jiilichs-Place, of which the verj- resembling fac.ide is above. Cologne, Januarj-, 1871. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DE.M JULICHS-PLATZ. 44 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. COMO (ON THE LAKE OF). GRAND HOTEL VILLA D'ESTE, REINE D'ANGLETERRE. Proprietors— GI AN ELLA, Freres. This magnificent hotel, on the route from Como to Monte Generoso and to Lugano, is situated half an hour from the city of Como, by steamer or carriage. It now occupies the whole of the palace and beautiful Villa d'Este. The bliauty of its gardens, extending to the lake, the extent of its park, and the freshness of the climate in summer and its mildness in winter, render the Villa d'Este one of the most charming of country residences. Beautiful Reading, Music, and Billiard Rooms. Telegraph Bureau and English Chapel in the hotel. In the park of the hotel are several c/iaL-fs for families who desire to live out of the hotel. Advantageous arrangements made both for summer and winter. Fine excursions by carriage and boats. An omnibus awaits the arrival of each train at the Camerlata station. CONSTANCE. HOTEL DU BROCHET, HECHT HOTEL. First-class Establishment, Situated opposite the Harbour and the Lake. Excellent Fatsion. Table-d'Hote at One and Five d Clock. SPACI0U.S HOUSE, VERY CLEAN, QUIET, AND WELL-FURNISHED. The Proprietor has the sole right of fishing in the Rhine. Boats and all appliances for Fishing. Prices very moderate. French and English Papers. APPLKTON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 45 CORK. IMPERIAL HOTEL, PEMBROKE STREET, Proprietor— CHARLES COTTON. This long-established and well-known Hotel is conducted on the most approved and modern system. It possesses every requisite to promote the comfort and convenience of Tourists. The Hotel contains ONE HUNDRED AND TEN BEDROOMS, Ball-room, two Coffee-rooms, Commercial Room, a Drawint^-room for Ladies and Families, several Suites of Private Apartments, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, &c. &c. A Table cf Hotc Daily. The Hotel adjoins the General Post-Office, as also the Commercial Building, where Merchants meet on 'Change, and the earliest Telegraphic News is received, to the Reading-room, to which Visitors to the Hotel have free access. It has been patronized within the last few years by all the different Sovereigns and Royal Families of Europe visiting Ireland, — by all the successive Lords-Lieutenant, — and has, every season, the best American patronage. The Charges will be found most moderate. The Imperial Omnibuses attend the arrival and departure of each Train. .-PLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. DRESDEN. HOTEL VICTORIA, Proprietor— CARL WEISS. This first-rate Establishment, situated near the great pubhc promenade, combines comfort with elegance, and has the advantage of possessing a spacious and beautiful Garden. TWO SUPERIOR TABLES D'HOTE DAILY. Private Dinners at any Hour. During the Winter, Board and Lodging at very moderate rates. Mr. Weiss has an extensive Stock of the best i?/?^;/?^//, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Spanish Wines, and will be most happy to execute Orders at Wholesale Prices. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 47 DRESDEN. HOTEL DE SAXE. Proprietors— MAX and CHARLES DORN. First-class Establishment situated in the centre of the town, near the Theatre, Picture Gallery, Belvedere, &c. Table d'hote at One and half-past Four r.M. in the splendid Dining Hall, where, during the Winter Season, the most fashionable Concerts are given. Carriages belonging to the house. Reading room with American, English, French, German and Polish papers. Smoking room. Advantageous arrangements are made for the Winter. 48 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. DUBLIN. THE SHELBOURNE HOTEL, Proprietors— Messrs. JURY, COTTON, and GOODMAN. This Hotel is situated in Stephen's Green, which is acknowledged to be the healthiest and most aristocratic part of the city. Its posi- tion is most central as respects the railways ; and for invalids it possesses peculiar attractions, having not only magnificent pleasure grounds in front, but also a southern aspect, so that the air is both salubrious and invigorating. Its internal arrangements are of the highest order of excellence, no expense having been spared to render them perfect and com- plete ; and the Tariff has been fixed at exceedingly moderate rates, when compared with similar establishments elsewhere. The Hotel is under the immediate personal superintendence of one of the Proprietors, Mr. GOODMAN, so long and favourably known to the Nobility and Gentry of the United Kingdom, but it will also re- ceive the constant attention of the other two Proprietors, whose long experience in Hotel Management is a guarantee that every- thing that can be made to contribute to the comfort and con- venience of visitors will be employed. Mr. Jury is also Proprietor of the Hotel College Green, and of the Imperial, Belfast, and Mr. Cotton is the Proprietor of the Imperial Hotel, Cork. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEXTS. 49 EDINBURGH. THE ROYAL HOTEL. (MACGREGOR'S, LATE GIBE'S.) PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH, Opposite the Scott Monument, and commanding the best views of the Gardens, Castle, Arthur's Seat, Sec. Sec. Within a hundred yards of the Railway Station. A NIGHT PORTER IN ATTENDANCE. EISENACH. HOTEL ZUM GROSSHERZOG yon SACHSEN^ Proprietress, MRS. J. ROHRIG. (Formerly of the Thiiringer Ilof.) Close to the door of the Railway Station. This Hotel ranks as the first in the town. Elegant carriages furnished for excursions. ENGELBERG (near Lucerne). HOTEL AND PENSION SONNENBERG. Proprietors— BliCHER and DURRER. This new and first-rate Hotel has a delightful situation, with a magnificent view of the Titlis, surrounded by shady walks and a Park. It is fitted up for 150 beds, and contains a spacious Sdlle a Manger, Ladies' Drawing Room, Billiard Room, Smoking Room, and Private Saloons for Ladies and Famihes. English Service every Sunday. Moderate Charges. Prompt attendance. 3 D 50 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. ESTABLISHED 1840. 5, Via de' Torjiabuoni, FLORENCE. 5, Via de' Toniahuoni. MESSRS. MAQUAY^ HOOKER and CO. . 7, Via Borra, LEGHORN. 7, Via Borra. MESSRS. MAQUAY, HOOKER and CO. 20, Piazza di Spagna, ROME. 20, Piazza di Spagna. MESSRS. MAQUAY, HOOKER and CO. BRANCHES AT BATHS OF LUCCA, SIENA, AND PISA Direct Correspondents and Agents of the principal American and European Bankers. LETTERS OF CREDIT. NOTES AND DRAFTS CASHED GOLD BOUGHT AND SOLD. READING ROOMS. Goods Stored and Forwarded for Clients, Orders and Consignments, Post Office Department, etc., etc. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEXT.S. 51 FLORENCE. CARLO DUCCI, 36, LUNG ARNO NUOVO. Pianos for Sale and Hire. Circulating Library of New Music. Music imported to order, Organs, Harmoniums, Harps, &c. Provider to His Majesty Victor Emanuel and H. R. H. Grand Duchess of Russia. FLORENCE. ELISA BRUNETTI, Via Tornabuoni Via de Cerretani No. 20, No. 9, Palazzo Corsi. Casa Zanetti. Furnisher to the Royal Palace. Speciality for Shirts, Collars, Cravats, Gloves, Roman Scarfs, English and French Stockings, Knit Shirts and Drawers. FLORENCE. FRANCESCO BETTI, 3, Lung' Arno Nuovo and Borgo Ogxissanti, Manufactory of Mosaics. FOURNISSELR OF H. M. THE KiNG OF ItALY, H. H. THE DucHESSE OF Russia, and H. M. the Queen of Wurtemburg. FLORENCE. G. TORRINI, 6, Lting Arjio Ntiovo, and 3, Borgo Ognissanti. Manufactory of Mosaics. Fournisseur of H. M. the King of Italy and the Consul-General of the United States of America. 52 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FLORENCE. GROVES' ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PHARMACY, 1 5 , Borgognissan ti. Prescriptions of all countries dispensed according to their respective Pharmacopoeias. Drugs imported from England and America. All the principal American and English Patent Medi- cines. Mineral Waters. French and English Perfumery and Sundries. Farina's genuine Cologne Water. India-rubber goods. Enema Apparatus. Eye-douches. FLORENCE. H. ROBERTS and CO., PHARMACY OF THE BRITISH LEGATION. I 7, Via Tornabiwni. Prescriptions carefully dispensed with drugs from London. All Conti- nental and American receipts accurately prepared. Congress, Vichy, and all French and German Mineral Waters. Tarrent's Effervescent Seltzer Aperient, Ayer's Cherry Pectoral, Brown's Troches, Perry's Pain Killer, Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup, Hall's Hair Renewer, Barry's Tricopherous, Allen's Zylobalsamum. Distillers of the celebrated Florentine Bouquet. Farina's Eau-de-Cologne. Depot of English and French Perfum ery. FLORENCE. PHOTOGRAPHER. GIACOMO BROGI, 15, LUNG ARNO DELLE GRAZIE, Publisher of views of four different sizes of Mont Cenis, Turin, Milan, Como, &c., the Indian Mail Route through Italy from St. Michel to Suez, Palestine, and the Holy Land. Views of Works of Art of the principal Galleries of Jiurope. Albums of Florence and the Holy Land, with English and l< rench text. FLORENCE. EDWARD PREVOST & CO. 6 %i'j, Via Rondinelll Silk and Woollen Furniture Coverings and Trimmings. Lace and Silk Curtains. Wall Paper of the finest quality and all descriptions. Importer of First Class Dry Goods, for sale by piece or yard. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 53 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. HOTEL DE RUSSIE. DREXEL BROTHERS, Proprietors. Messrs. Drexel beg to call the attention of English and American travellers to the above establishment, where they will find every comfort and attention. Drexel Brothers, AA'ine Merchants and Proprietors of the Hotel de Russie, invite attention to their fine cellar of Wines, which may be viewed on application at the Bureau of the Hotel. They will be happy to execute orders from their choice and extensive stock at wholesale prices. 54 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE J. G. BERTHOLDT, Proprietor. This first class Hotel has long been favourably known to English and American travellers for its comfortable and well furnished apartments, its excellent accommodations, good cuisine and wines. Mr. Bertholdt has an extensive and choice stock of the best Rhenish and other wines, orders for which he will execute at wholesale prices. AVPLETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVFJiTISEMEXTS. So FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. KOCH, LAUTEREN & CO. (Late GOGEL, KOCH, and CO.) 19, Gallus Strasse. GENERAL BANKING, WINE AND COMMISSION BUSINESS, CIRCULAR NOTES AND LETTERS OF CREDIT CASHED, NOTES AND DRAFTS COLLECTED. EXCHANGE ON ALL PARTS OF EUROPE AND ON NEW YORK, BOUGHT AND SOLD. Stocks and Bonds Bought and Sold, READING ROOMS. English and American Newspapers. Register of Visitors to Frankfort and the German watering places. Genua Ji and Foreign J Fines, still and sparkling. Agents for Messrs. Austin Baldwin and Co.'s European-American Express Company, New York. 56 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. FRIEDRICH BOHLER, Zeil, No. 54. JVexi door to the Post Office. PRIZE MEDAL, LONDON, 1862. MANUFACTORY OF CARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS. Carved Wood Work ( Vieuxchene) Furniture and Fancy Objects. Clocks, Lamps, Bronzes, China, Fancy Articles OF EVERY Description. SPECIALITIES OF GERMAN ARTICLES. RUSSIA-LEATHER GOODS in Great Variety. Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling Articles, Toilette Requisites, etc., etc. SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNECKER. Genuine Fan de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina, opposite the Jidichsplatz. FIXED PRICES. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 37 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. BING JUNIOR & CO, No. 31, Zeil. Ml im IB liil IBi IHI IqIi ■.ll„l,.' .,- --- „|M 31 BIN G J U N R .^Comp 31 PORCELAINE (DRESDEN CHINA). SPECIALITY OF CHINA OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. So/e Depot of the Royal PORCELAIN Manufactory of DRE.SDEX. BiNG JuN. AND Co. have constantly on hand a complete assortment of the beautiful wares of this famous fabric, com- prising Dinner, Dessert, Coffee, Tea and Breakfast Sets, Orna- ments, Figures, Groups, Baskets, &c. They have had the honour to supply a lage number of English and American families with choice table services and other goods, and they hope by careful attention in fulfilling orders, and by their adherence to a strictly moderate tariff of prices, to merit a continuance of the liberal patronage hitherto extended to them. They invite a careful comparison by in- tending purchasers, between their qualities and prices and those of Paris houses. Copies of the celebrated Ari.\dne in porcelaine and bronze. Forwarding Agents in New York, Messrs. Austin Baldwin, and Co., 74. Broadway, to whom they send pattern plates of sets, as well as designs of ornaments, on demand. 58 APPLETOWS GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, Zeil, No. 44. BOHEMIAN FANCY GLASS AND CRYSTAL WAREHOUSE. An extensive assortment of the newest and most elegant designs of Ornamental Cut, Engraved, Gilt and Painted Glass, both white and coloured, in Dessert Services, Chan- deliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of articles of this beautiful branch of manufacture. P. A. Tacchi's Successor desires to call the special attention of English and American travellers visiting Frankfort, to this varied and elegant collection of useful and ornamental articles. He hopes by the perfection of his wares and the reasonableness of his prices to merit a continuance of the favours he has received from them for many years past. Shipping Agent in Londo7i — Mr. Louis Henle, 3, Bridge Row, Cannon Street, E. C. Shipping Agents in New York — Messrs. Beyerbach and ScHULTZ, 22, Liberty Street. A Branch Establishment, No. i (Pavilion opposite the Theatre), in the Old Colonnade at Wiesbaden, during the summer season. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 59 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. GEBRiJDER HOFF. m '''"^- W^fi^'fc,^ in % LlEBFRAUEX-EcK. LlEBFRAUENBERG, No. 35. BlEIDEXSTRASSE, No. I. SILKS, SHAWLS, AND FANCY GOODS, Visitors to Frankfort will find in this long-established house a rich selection of Black and Coloured Silks, Square and Long Shawls of all qualities, Woollen and mixed Fancy and Cotton goods. Velvets, Bareges, and ever)' variety of Dress goods for Ladies, Stuffs for Cloaks, Scarfs, Fichus, Cravats, &c. Messrs. H. hope by careful attention to the wants of their patrons, by keeping always a large stock of fashionable goods, and by adhering to a strictly reasonable tariff of prices, to con- tinue to merit the liberal patronage bestowed on their house. 60 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. J. FRIEDMAN N, (D. AND M. LOWENTHAL, Successors). No. 44, Zeil (First Floor). JEWELLERS, AND DEALERS IN PRECIOUS STONES SET AND UNSET. Intending purchasers will find here an extensive assortment of jewellery of the most elegant designs, at sirictly moderate prices. BRANCH ESTABLISHMENT AT WIESBADEN Nos. 3 AND 4, Old Colonnade. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEyTS. a FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. JOSEPH BAER, 1 8, Rossmarkt, opposite the Gutenberg Monument. ^^^^^^^S BOOKSELLER, Principal Agent of the Imperial Public Libraiy at St. Petersburg, the Public Museum at Moscow, etc. Large stock of New and Second-hand Books in all Languages and all Classes of Literature and the Fine Arts, Early Printed Books, Manuscripts, etc. Paris : 2, Rue du Quatre Septembre, opposite the Bourse. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. M. HERTZ, ROSSMARKT i8. CONFECTION POUR DAMES. HAUTE NOUVEAUTE. RKADY-MADE CLOAKS AND COSTUMES OF ALL KINDS AND AT ALL PRICES. DRESSES TO ORDER. BEST GERMAN, ENGLISH^ AND FRENCH MATERIALS. VARIOUS ARTICLES FOR LADIES' OUTFITS. FIXED AND MODERATE PRICES. Special Department for Ladies' Needlework and Children's Dresses in a separate Store. Wholesale and Retail. 62 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. Cafe Milani, Theatre Place {Next to the Theatre). This well-known establishment, the first in Frankfort, is justly cele- brated for its excellent cuisine, wines, &c. Ktirsaal Milani, In a fine situation near the Fried- berg Gate, belongs to the same Pro- prietor. The beautiful rooms and grounds are open during the warm season. Refreshments. Concert every day and evening. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. STAUDT AND JUNG, No. 35, Zeil {Opposite the Hotel de Russie). English and American ladies will find at this renowned establishment the most varied and choice assortment of GERMAN WORSTED AND CANVAS WORK, EMBROIDERIES, BERLIN WOOL, SILK CANVAS, etc. etc. Designs furnished and every variety of Worsted-work done at the shortest notice. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. REGINA HAAS, 39, Zeil, {Opposite the Hotel de Russie.) Specialite of Chapeaux, Bonnets, and Coiffures. English and American ladies visiting Frankfort may rely upon finding at this establishment articles unsurpassed in style and excellence by any in Europe. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISE^JENTS. €3 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. M. DOCTOR, FiLs, 47, Zeil, Begs to call the attention of English and American residents and travellers to his choice assortment of WHITE GOODS, CHEMISES, TABLE LINEN, TROUSSEAUX AND EMBROIDERIES, /o-r which his house is justly celebrated. M. Doctor received honourable mention at the Paris Exposition of 1S55, and at the Munich Exposition of 1854. He has had the honour to furnish many English and American families, FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. CHARLES VOLKERT, No. 69, Zeil, First Floor, {Next door to St. Catharines Church^. TAILOR AND OUTFITTER To His Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge. English and American gentlemen, visiting Frankfort, may rely upon being furnished at this estabUshment with garments made in the best style, of the best English and foreign materials, and at reasonable prices. 64 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. LADIES' DRESSMA K E R. JEAN POPP, 3, ESCHENHEIMERSTRASSE, One door from the Zeil, First Floor. Grateful for the patronage accorded him by English and American ladies, begs to call attention to his new styles in ROBES, MANTILLAS, &c., and to his Paris and Brussels CORSETS. His confections are of the best materials, and in the newest and best styles, and the prices are strictly reasonable. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. LOUIS A. A. SCHMIDT, 5, Bleidenstrasse, Near the Liebfraucnbcrg, Recommends to English and American travellers his large assortment of English, French and German Hosiery, and Gentlemen's and Ladies' Furnishing Goods. Shirts ready made, and in the latest styles; Gloves, Cravats, Collars, Cuffs, Flannel Jackets, Shirts and Drawers, ready made and to order. Travelling Rugs, and a large stock of other goods for both gentlemen and ladies, of the best quality and at fixed prices. APPLETON'S GU1DI-: liUUh, ADV ERTISEMENTS. OD FRANKFORT ON THE MAIN. P. W. MARTINI, HATTER, '^if?5TOigfir:'fr''"-i!Mi!;rT''M'5iira:®fi'^^ HUT-LAQERvoN P.W. MARTIN I, LIEBERAUENBEBa26 UrAxNd Depot, 26, Liebfrauenberg, 26. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. FRANKENBACH BROTHERS, FRENCH BOOT AND SHOE MAKERS, {Fjirveyors to the Duke of Nassau). 16, Bronnerstrasse. Manufacturers of the finest Boots and Shoes for both Ladies and Gentlemen^ Their workmansliip is unrivalled for elegance and durability. They have had the honour of furnishing many of the first English and American families. Among their regular patrons are many residents of Paris, London, and New York, to whom they have permission to refer. 3 F 66 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. CHARLES JiJGEL, (opposite the guard house ) GERMAN AND FOREIGN BOOK AND PRINT SELLER. Circulating Library, Maps, Guide Books, Grammars and Conversation Boolcs. ENGRAVINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. HEINRICH KELLER, -Book and Printsdler, 37, ZlEL, OPPOSITE THE HoTEL DE RuSSIE. Works of Art and of Science. Classics, Tauchnitz Edition. Engravings and Photo- graphs. Stereoscopes. Guide Books. Views of Frankfort and the Rhine, Switzer- land, &c. Photographic Albums. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. J. & S. GOLDSCHMIDT, ZeIL, ADJOINING THE HoTEL DE RUSSIE. DEALERS IN CURIOSITIES, ANTIQUITIES, ETC. f^Hi-vevor to His Royal Higkncss the Crown Prince of Prussia. Visitors to Frank- xfM^ Messrs. G. deal fort will find at diis g ffitSj M^ extensively in dia- well-known esta- kftp^^^W^^My ™0"^ ^"^ other pre- bhshment one of W^^^SMi^-Sf ^^°"^ stones, unset the choicest collec- if^^^^mmmji and -in antique set- tions of curiosities TJ , l-//pWlfl j ^'^ tings, which they and antiquities in l44.^^=#tE^'M(l sell at reasonable i^^rope. / ^|la^- -^ A prices. APPLETOK'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 67 FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAIN. STRAUSS AND CO., 57, Zeil (First Floor). Dealers in Brussels and Chant illy Laces. S. & Co. beg to call the attention of English and American residents and travellers to their extensive assortment of lace goods, consisting of Shawls, Veils, Parures, &c., &c. This House has a speciality of Laces which they sell at Brussels prices. FREYBURG (Switzerland). GRAND HOTEL DE ZAHRINGEN, Kept by MR. KUSSLER. This first-rate Hotel is the most important in the town, and enjoys an excellent reputation. Situated in a very picturesque position : from its fine terrace, a beau- tiful view is obtained of the Wire Bridges, and the renowned Gorge of Gottcron. It is onh- a few steps from the Cathedral containing the celebrated Organ. Carriagres at the Hotel. '«» Omnibuses at every Train. 68 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. FREIBURG (IN BADEN). SOMMER'S ZAHRINGERHOF HOTEL. This first-class Hotel is the best in the town. Moderate prices. English spoken. Baths in the Hotel. Board during the winter. Proprietor. G. H. SOMMER. FRIEDRICHSHAFEN (Lake of Constance). HOTEL BELLEVUE. HOTEL DE LA COURONNE. Proprietor — Louis Deeg. :.-^^mi>% ■^^ ,i;a BEUf.j, Both Hotels command magnificent views of the Lake and the Alps. They have fine Gardens extending to the waterside. Both are situated conveniently near to the Railway Station and landing-place of the Steam- boats. Baths near the Hotel. Board during the winter. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GENEVA. HOTEL BEAU RIYAGE, Proprietors— MAYER AND KUNZ. This hotel is situated on the north side of the Lake of Geneva, has three fronts, and from its position commands Views of Mont Blanc and its Range, AND OF The Beautiful Lake and its Borders, Unattainable from any other hotel at or near Geneva. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN TRAVELLERS WILL FIND EVERY convenience AND COMFORT, UNEXCEP TIONA L A TTENDA A CE, AND MODERATE CHARGES. / 'PLETOK'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GENEVA. GRAND HOTEL DE LA PAIX, Propriktor— J. KOHLER. This splendid Hotel, situated in the finest position of the town, on the Ouai of Mont-Blanc, near the English church and the landing-place of the steamers, surrounded with fine gardens, affords to foreign families all the desi- rable comforts. It contains 150 independent rooms and first-rate style furnished drawing-rooms, large and small apartments, and twenty balconies. From every window of the Hotel you enjoy a magnificent view over the Lake and all the ridge of Mont-Blanc. The delicacy of cooking is proverbial. Reading, Smoking, & well fitted up Bathing Rooms. Universal Reputation. T/ii' Omnibus of the Hotel stands at the Station for the arrival of the Trains. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK. ADVERTISEMENTS. 71 GENEVA. HOTEL DES BERGUES. Proprietor— F. WACHTER. In a matchless position, and of European repu- tation, this large first-class Hotel was entirely re- arranged and freshly decorated in 1S70 — with the addition of a new superb Salon dc Convc7'sation. Unrivalled for its fine cellar of Wines, its Dinners AND Prompt attendance. Pension for the ivinter months at very moderate prices. -tS APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GENEVA. HOTEL DE L'ECU Proprietor— GVE. WOLFF. Proprietor also of Hotel Byroji, Jiear Villeneiive. 'I'his unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has long enjoyed an extensive and high reputation among travellers. Situated in the finest part of the town, and facing the lake, it commands a beautiful view of the environs. Its accommodation is of so superior a character, that Tourists will find it a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Table d'Hote at i o'clock, 4 fr. ; at 5 o'clock, 4 fr. Arrangements made with Families during the Wijiter Months at very reasonable charges. New Reading and Smoking Rooms. Al'I'LETON'S GUIDE liOUK, ADi' t.IiTl6EME\TS. 73 GENEVA. HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE, DiRKCTKD BY MR. CHARLES ALDINGER, {Formerly tlie 'a'dl-kntnon Proprietor of the Hotel de la Coitronne, and HOW the Proprietor of the Hotel de la Metropole). This large and excellent Establishment, situated in the most favourable quarter of the town, facing the Pont du Mont Blanc, with the English (jarden in front, which is well provided with flowers and shrubs, and shady seats, and goes down to the edge of the lake. From the rooms in front there is a very fine view of the lake, and from those at the back the snow-capped summit of Mont Blanc is seen in the distance ; and from an Observatory at the top of the house, of very easy access, both can be seen, and a very extended view of the surrounding country. It contains 200 most elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in every variety, and the Proprietor himself superintends all the arrangements. A Reading Room, with all English, American, French, and German new.spapers, and a spacious Coffee and Smoking Room are in the Hotel ; in short, every comfort Visitors can expect in a tirst-class Hotel is at their disposition. The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer ; and in winter is heated by large stoves. Charges are very moderate, and Pension during the winter. Tabled'Hote three times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel three times a day. Private Carriages and Cabs always ready. GENEVA. No. 2, Place des Bergues. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, i^rc^criprionS carcfiillp prcparcD. All kinds of Patent Medicines and Perfumery. Homccopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga Water. Medicines and Preparations forwarded with the greatest despatch and safety to all parts of .Switzerland by Post. 74 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GENEVA. GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. B. A. BREMOND, ^manufacturer, 7, Rue Pradier, 7, {Ground Flocrr), MANUFACTURES HIMSELF MUSICAL BOXES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, AND FANCY MUSICAL ARTICLES. Albums, Chairs, Work and Jewel Boxes, Bottles, &c. &c., from 5 francs and upwards. This Establishment is especially patronised by American and English Families. APPLKTOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 7.5 GENEVA. MUSICAL BOXES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, A. RIVENC mk AND Co, Successors to Th. Greiner and Co. Sales-Roo.ms, Place des Alpes, {Close to the Hotel de la Paix). Manufactory 3, Rue Sismondi. English and American tourists will find at our Sales-rooms an unrivalled assortment of Musical Boxes at all prices. MUSICAL BOXES WITH SINGING BIRDS, A NOVELTY INTRODUCED BY US. 76 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GENEVA. A. GOLAY, LERESCHE & SONS, . Manufacturers of Watches and Jewellery, 31, Quai lies Bcrgues, & i, P/aw du Port, Grand Quai 28. All Watches made by this long-established Manufactory are warranted. Specialite Chronometers and Watches with Com- plex Movements. Branch of same Honse in Paris, 2, Rue de la Paix. Correspondents in all the principal Cities of Europe and America. Prize Medals at all the Exhibitions. GENEVA. REYNAUD AND GLATOU, Ancienne Maison, P. Rcynaud atid Co., 26, Grand Quai. Manufacturers of Watches and Jewellery. Chronometers and Watches with Complex Movements. Great choice of Jewellery in entirely New Designs. Three Medals in 1867. House at Nice, 15, Quai Massena. Correspondents at London, Paris, and New York. Everything sold at Manufacturers' Prices. GENEVA. F. RICHARD, Librarie Generate^ 56, Rue du Rhone, near the Pont du Mont Blanc. A complete assortment of Pubhcations on all Subjects. Guides. Plans for the use of Travellers. Photographic Views of Switzerland, &~'c. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GENEVA. BLOCH, OPTICIAN. {BrevcVc). 14, Rue du Rhone. Recommended by the most celebrated oculists for the beauty of his crown and pebble glasses, and the excellence of his other productions. The Physioscope, an invention of Mr. Bloch, and one of the curiosities of Geneva, can be seen at his place of business, as above, every day after 3 o'clock. GENEVA. HOTEL DE LA COURONNE. Propriktor— MR. F. BAUR. This Establishment, of the first rank, completely newly furnished throughout, situated in front of the magnificent Pont du Mont I>lanc, the National Monument, the Steam-boat Landing, and the English Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Leman and Mont Blanc. Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. English .and American newspapers. Tables d'Hote three times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. GENOA. HOTEL DE LA VILLE, Mr. Trombetta, Proprietor of the Hotel Trombetia, for- merly Hotel Feder, in Genoa, as well as Proprietor of the Hotel Trombetta at Turin, begs to inform visitors that for two years he has also been Proprietor of the Hotel de la Ville. This large Establishment is situated in the centre of the town, facing the South, and overlooking the sea, and the picturesque scenery of the Bay. The present proprietor has entirely refurnished and reorganized the Hotel, and has spared no expense in fitting it up with the same comfort and elegance as his other two hotels. Table d'Hote, Reading Room, Smoking Room, and Baths. Omnibus at the Station. Moderate charges. All languages spoken. 78 APPLETOI\'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEXTS. GENOA. GRAND HOTEL DE GENES. Co74r tJhonncnr. Porte cochere for carriages. SITUATED IN THE MOST BEAUTIFUL POSITION IN THE CITY. PLACE CARLO FELICE, OPPOSITE THE GREAT THEATKE. This Hotel is the only one of the great Hotels at Genoa which is situated in the healthiest part of the city, entirely away from the noise of the railway and the offensive odours of the port. Excelletit Table d'Hote. Private service— Omnibus at all Trains— Equipages IN THE Hotel— Baths. AFFLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADyEUTlSEMEM'S. 79 GENOA. GRAND HOTEL D'lTALlE, AND CROIX DE MALTE. Proprietor— FELIX BOTTACHI. C"^ This mai^nificenl Establislinient (into which the Croix de Make is merged) formerly the RAGGIO PALACE, continues to retain tlie first place among all houses of this description iu this city, by its exceptional and central posi- tion, as well as by the extent of its accommodation and its cleanliness. With the view of preserving the same reputation, the I'ruprietor has established agreeable salons de reunion, music, reading, and smoking, having a superb view of the Gulf. The prices are very moderate. Excdlcnt 7'abL' d'JIote. For persons who remain some time in the Hotel arrangements are made on reduced terms. Omnibuses and Carriages to meet every Train. RO APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GENOA. Manufactory of Filagree. AUGUSTE HORACE MOSSA, PRINCIPAL SHOP IN THE HOTEL D'lTALIE, BRANCH AT THE GRAND HOTEL DE GENES, Also at the VIA DEL CAMPO, near the Porta de Vacca. Medal of the London Exhibition. Mr. Moss A gtiarantces all his articles to be of real Gold or Silver, or Silver doubly Gilt. Goods sold at Wholesale and Retail at Fixed Prices. Orders for Export promptly attended to. Travellers are invited to honour his establishments with their visits, and to inspect his goods. They may do so without incurring the least obligation to purchase. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 81 GENOA. Speciality of the Genoese Industry. RAFFAELE COSTA E FIGLI, 17, Via Giulia, 17. LARGE MANUFACTORY AND DEPOT OF CORAL WORKS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. Recommended especially to Merchants, Jczvcllers, and Exporters, as a Jionse having on sale one of the largest assortniaits of Coral. Orders executed with careful attention and in the shortest time. Quality warranted Extra. Samples and Current Price Notes sent on demand. Visitors to Genoa are invited to visit the ^Manufactory. 3 F 82 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. GLASGOW. MACLEAN'S HOTEL, 198, St. Vincent Street. Proprietor— JAMES MACLEAN. This first-class Hotel is pleasantly and fashionably situated in the immediate neigh- bourhood of Blytheswood Square {one of the healthiest sites in the city), andwithin an easy distance of the several Railway Stations, the Exchange, Banks, and principal places of business. ■■■,■, i, i, » The Hotel since its opening has been very successful, and is visited by the best American families. It is also largely patronised by the highest families in Great Britain and the Continent. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 83 GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. {KOFAL ROUTE, vi4 CKINAN and CALEDONIAN CANALS.) THE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS lona. Chevalier, Edinburgh Castle, Staffa, Mountaineer, Pioneer, Gondolier, Mary Jane, Clansman, Clydesdale, Cygnet, Plover, and Inverary Castle, Sail during the season for Oban, Fort William, Inverness, Staffa, lona, Glcncoe, Tobermory, Portree, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinver, and Stomoway. These vessels afTord in their passage a View of the Beautiful Scenerj' of the Clyde, with all its \Vatering-Places--the Island and Kyles of Bute — Island of Arran — Mountains of Cowal, Knapdalc, and Kintyre — Lochfyne — Crinan — with the Islands of Jura, Scarbat Mull, and many others of the Western Sea— the Whirlpool of Corryvrechan — the Moun- tains of Lorn, of Morven, of Appin, of Kingairloch, and Ben-Nevis — Inverlochy — the Lands of Lochiel, the scene of the Wanderings of Prince Charles, and near to where the Clans raised his Standard in '45 — Lochaber— the Caledonian Canal — Loch Lochy— Loch Oich — Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and the celebrated FALLS OF FOYERS. Books descriptive of the route maybe had onboard the Steamers- Time Bills with Maps to be had of Messrs. D. APPLETON & COMPANY, New York ; or sent, post free, on application to the Proprietors, DAVID HUTCHESON & CO., 119, Hope Street, Glasgow. Glasgow, 1871. HALLE, (ON THE SAALE). HOTEL STADT-HAMBURG. Proprietor — L. Achtelstetter. This Hotel has recently been enlarged and furnished with every possible comfort. Its situation in the finest part of the town, and its e.xcellent management, make it the favourite resort of large families as well as of single travellers. HANOVER. UNION HOTEL. This well-known fii-st-class and favourite Hotel, for private families and gentlemen, is beautifully and cheerfully situated right opposite the Railway Station. Elegance and comfort combined. English and French spoken. The utmost attention and civility. A regular Table d'Hote, and private dinners to order. Baths in the house. Private carriages always ready. English and French newspapers. The Hotel is open all night. The new Proprietor, Mr. F. VoLKERS, has just opened a very fine Coft'ee-room and a beautiful Refreshment-room, attached to the Hotel. Pension 6 frs. a day, everything included. 84 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. HANOVER. ALEXANDER SIMON, AMERICAN AND ENGLISH BANKER. No. 30, SCHILLERSTRASSE. CIRCULAR NOTES and DRAFTS on London, Paris, New York, and other places cashed at the best exchange, and payments made on all Letters of Credit of known American and English firms. A Register is kept for the names of travellers. Letters promptly for- warded. Any information relative to Schools, &c., given by letter or otherwise. TAe business of the American Consul is done at this Office. HEIDELBERG. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. H^FELI-GUJER, Proprietor. This new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur- rounded by private and public gardens, with the view of the Castle, and the very best situation in Heidelberg, enjoys already an European reputation. READINGROOM, With English and American Papers. Reduced prices for protracted stay, and for the Winter Season. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 85 HEIDELBERG. HOTEL PRINCE CHARLES. . ,.., t^OMMER AM; J ].:.. In the Market Place, near to the Castle, with the finest view of it. This hotel, patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales and Prince Alfred, is without question the best situated in the town ; it possesses an excellent cuisine and is favourably known for its clean and airy bed-rooms, good attendance, and very reasonable prices. Large and small apartments for families and single gentlemen. Reading-room supplied with the London Times, Galignani's Messenger, and American papers, S:c. Superior tables d'hute at i and 5 o'clock. Baths in the hotel. Arrangements can be made for Board and Lodging during the winter; deservedly recommended. Mr. Ellmer was for many years Manager of the Hotel BAUR AU LAC, at Zu rich. HOMBURG BATHS. HOTEL DE RUSSIE. Proprietor, F. A. LAYDIG. Hi HOTEL DE RUSSIE .^^ — ^^»i — f-' — I ' ^r 1 ^ F^ *'iii - iw f First Class Hotel, one of the best in town, commanding a magnificent view. Favourably known for its elegance, cleanliness, and kind attendance. Newly and greatly enlarged. Conversation Room elegantly fitted up. Splendid Dining Room, &c. Well-furnished Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen. Good Cellar ; excellent Cooking. Moderate charges. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. HOMBURG BATHS. Near Frankfort-on-the-Main. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL. W. SCHLOTTERBECK, Proprietor. This spacious first-class Hotel especially commends itself to English and American travellers by its great comfort. Well furnished apartments for families and single gentlemen. Good ansine and excellent wines. Tab/e d'Hote at i and 5 o'clock. The Hotel is situated in the principal street of the town, at a convenient walking distance from the Railway, the Kur- saal, and the Springs. Open all the year. Advantageous arrangements made for the winter months. The Proprietor deals exte?isively in German and other Wines, still and sparkling, luhich he sells at Wholesale prices. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 87 HOMBURG BATHS. ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL. GUST AVE WETGAND. Proprietor. First-rate for families and single gentlemen, close to the Springs and the Kursaal; it is one of the best situated Hotels in the town. A splendid Dining-room, and two suites of airy and quiet apartments (with balconies), overlooking the fine Taunus Mountains, have been newly added to the Hotel. It has been patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and several other Royal personages. The Proprietor, who has been for years in first-class hotels in London, offers visitors the advantages of good and comfort- able accommodation. All the attendants speak English. Best French and English cooking. Excellent wines. Moderate charges. HOMBURG BATHS. PH. FISCHER, No. 64, LouisEx Strasse, Jeweller to the Court, Invites the attention of English and Americ:in travellers to his choice assortment of Jewellery, Precious Stones, &c. Second-hand Jewellery always on hand for sale at reduced prices. An interesting collection of Curiosities, Antiquities, 6^c. 88 APPLETOlSrS GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. INNSBRUCK. HOTEL D'AUTRICHE KEPT BY J. BAER. This first-class Hotel, the best situated in the town, enjoys a high reputation for being honoured with the patronage of tra- vellers of distinction of all nations. The greatest care is given to the attendance. Large and small well furnished apartments for families and single gentlemen. English spoken. INNSBRUCK. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. Kept by Mr. SCHEINER. - A new and well -furnished Hotel, conveniently situated, just facing tlie splendid valley of the Inn, and only five minutes' walk from the Railway Station. Excellent Table d'Hote and Private Dinners. Arrangements made at very reasonable prices. Well furnished Apartments. Foreign News- papers, Reading Room. Telegraph. Eighty Rooms and Saloons. English spoken. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 89 INTERLAKEN. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA, Opposite the Jungfrau Glacier. ED. RUCHTI, Proprietor. This new and beautiful house contains 240 Rooms ; Music, Reception, and Billiard Rooms, Saloons, &c. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. Season opens the ist of April. REDUCED PRICES UNTIL THE FIRST OF JULY. HOTEL DE L'OBERLAND, ALSO KEPT BY MR. RUCHTI. This Hotel, very well situated, and commanding a fine view of the Jungfrau, is super- intended by the Proprietor himself, who spares no pains to justify the old reputation of the Hotel for comfort and cleanliness. Fine Dining-room ; " Cafe Restaurant ;" Billiard Table, &c. All the a tcndants speak English. Moderate charges. The " Caf^" is much frequented. ' APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. / INTERLAKEN. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. Proprietor, STRUBIN-MULLER. Hotel of the first class. Situated in the centre of the Inter- laken, it contains with its dependences 120 Chambers, Salle a Manger, Saloon, a Smoking Saloon, and many Private Saloons, Several Tables d'Hote daily. PRIVATE DINNERS. ENGLISH, FRENCH, AND GERMAN NEWSPAPERS. Carriages, Guides, and Horses for excursions. OMNIBUS AT EVERY STEAMER. INTERLAKEN. GRAND HOTEL DES ALPES. Proprietor, Mr. T. F. KNECHTENHOFER. This large Establishment, surrounded with a fine Garden, contains 250 Beds. It is situated on the principal Promenade (Hoeheweg), close to the English Church, the Kursaal, and opposite the Glacier Jungfrau. Its magnificent Saloons for games and music, Smoking-room, with Billiard Table, and Ladies' Saloon, attract the attention of Visitors. English and American Newspapers. Cold and Warm Baths. Elegant Carriages. Reduced prices for protracted stay in the early and latter part of the season. Constant communication with the Steamboat, by the Omnibuses of the Hotel. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 91 INTERLAKEN. HOTEL JUNGFRAU KEPT BY MR. SEILER STERCHI. i lii.i c\CL-Ucnl lliHul In Mtualcd on the liiic^l I'loiuciuielc, uiui is surroiUKlcd with a large and beautiful Garden, from which an extensive view is to be had all over .the Glaciers. English travellers will find at this Hotel large and small well-furnished Apartments and Rooms for Families and Single Tourists. Moderate Charges. 92 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. KILLARNEY (Ireland). KILLARNEY RAILWAY HOTEL, P. CURRY. (Lafe Travellers' Clicb, London, and Kildare Street Club, Dublin^ THE CONTINENTAL LANGUAGES SPOKEN BY THE MANAGER. This well-known Establishment, admitted to be one of the finest in Europe, possesses everything requisite to promote the comfort and convenience of Tourists. It stands in a most central position for visiting the best Scenery; contains One Hundred Bed-rooms, a magnificent Coff'ee-room, a Drawing- room for Ladies and Families, and several elegant and hand- somely furnished Sitting-rooms, Billiard and Smoking-rooms, Baths, &c. &c., and is surrounded by an extensive and well- kept Flower-garden. The Charges will be found moderate. The Boating and Carriage accommodation is specially attended to by the Manager, who personally arranges the formation of Boating Parties, &c., with a view to economy. The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of each Train, for the removal of luggage, &c. Table d'Hote at half-past Six o'clock. All Attendance charged. A room is established for the convenience of Commercial Gentlemen. Parties taken as Boarders at Three Guineas per week from ist November to the ist of June. APPLETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 9-S KONIGSWINTER.— (On the Rhine.) HOTEL DE BERLIN. V'lsiiDr^ wishing to pass a few days in the vicinity of the DrachenfeU. ilent accommodation at this first-class Hotel, which commands splendid views, and ho^ une of the finest Terrace Gardens on the Rhine. All the Steamers call at Konigswinter to land or embark passengers. Flying Bridge Ferry across the Rhine, thence per rail to Coblentz, Bonn, or Cologne. The Station of the Right Bank Railway, from Obercassel (Bonn) to Eherenbreitstein (Coblenz), is near the Hotel. Advantageous arrangements made with Families. Mr. CHR. SCHMIDT, Proprktor. LAUSANNE. (Between Lausanne and Ouchy.) HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. This splendid Establishment, constructed on a grand scale, is situated on one of the most beautiful spots on the shore of the Lake of Geneva, surrounded by an Eng- lish Park and Garden. It is near the Steamboat landing and the English Church, within ten minutes' walk of the Railroad Station and the City. Its superior interior arrangements, the comfort of its Private Apartments, Public Parlours, and Reading-rooms, will ofifer all de- sirable attraction to travellers. Reduced prices for protracted stays and for the Winter season. Constant communication with the City and Railroad Station by Omnibus. 94 APPLETOWS GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. LAUSANNE. • HOTEL GIBBON. This first-class Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, is in every respect very highly recommended. Splendid view over the Lake in all its extent. Large Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel. Pension during the Winter. LAUSANNE. HOTEL RICHEMONT. Proprietor— FRITZ RITTER. This Hotel is of the first order, and is worthy of the highest recom- mendation. It is in a situation of surpassing beauty, surrounded by gardens and promenades. It offers to travellers a highly desirable place of residence, or of temporary sojourn. APFLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 95 LEIPSIC. HOTEL DE PRUSSE. LOUIS KRAFT, Proprietor, Situated in the finest part of the city, on a large square, near the Theatre, Museum '' Gewandhaus," &c. Beautiful view on the new Promenade. First-class Establishment, with every American and English comfort and attention. Quite new, and well-furnished. Saloons, Reading-room. One Hundred Apart- ments for Families and Single Gentlemen. Moderate Charges. LINDAU (LAKE OF CONSTANCE). HOTEL DE BAVIERE, Beautifully situated near the Railway Station and the Steam- boat landing. The fine view from the Hotel, its comfortable arrangements and good service combine to recommend this Hotel to the favourable notice of travellers. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS, LONDON. LANGHAM HOTEL, PORTLAND PLACE, LONDON, W. Manager, JAMES M. SANDERSON. BATHS, AND SMOKING ROOM, WITH EVERY MODERN LUXURY. Carriages and Horses, Elegant Equipages, always ready. The Largest, most Commodious, and most Healthily situated Hotel in the Me- tropolis, with the Finest Reception and Refreshment Rooms, Splendidly Furnished. ADJACENT TO THE PARK, OPERA, CLUBS, HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, AND LAW COURTS ; THE FOREIGN EMBASSIES, AND ALL THEATRES IN THE MOST FASHIONABLE QUARTER OF LONDON. - N. B. — A Postal Telegraph Office ajid Pillar Letter Box withm the Hotel, APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTJSEME^TS. 97 LONDON. Messrs, J, &R, MCCRACKEN, (established 41 YEARS,) 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.G., LONDON, Agents, by appointment, to the Royal Academy, National Gallery , and Government Department of Science and Art, GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, WINE MERCHANTS, AGENTS FOR BOUYIERS NEUCHATEL CHAMPAGNE, AND AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE RECEPTION AND SHIPiMENT OF \VORKS OF ART, BAGGAGE, ETC., FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the American Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to be honoured with a con- tinuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. J. & R. McC. have the advantage of DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, WJiere Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owners'' absence, at jnost moderate rates of rent > J. & R. McC. beg to call especial attention to their large stock of all Wines of the best brands and to inform their American friends that all orders with which they may be favoured will meet with the most prompt and careful attention at the lowest prices. Price lists and samples on application. Correspondents in New York: — Austin Baldwin & Co., Broadway. 3g 98 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. LONDON. STEVENS'S American Literary and Library Agency, 17, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. B. F. Stevens Jupplics Ame- rican, EngliJTi and Conti- nental Books, Periodicals and Stationery to Public Libraries and Private Gen- tlemen. B. F. Stevens executes orders for Printing and for Englijh and French Book- binding in all Jlylcs from the cheapejl to the finejl examples. B. F. Stevens pays Jpecial attention to hunting up Old and New out of the way Books, Works of Art, and Curiojlties. B. F. Stevens receives jub- jcriptions and advertije- ments for Foreign Perio- dicals. B. F. Stevens receives and forwards Packages to New York and other dejlina- tions. B.F.Stevens executes Com- mijQlons of every nature for his Corrcjpondents in Eng- land and America. B. F. Stevens, Agent of the New York Tribune and New York Times, takes Jubjcriptions and adver- tijements and keeps papers on jale. B. F. Stevens's Ao-ents in New York, Mejfrs. Irving and Willey, 34I, Pine Street, clear Packages through the Cujloms and collect charges on delivery. B. F. Stevens jupplies all the Englijh and American New/papers and Maga- zines, receiving Jubjcrip- tions for any period. B. F. Stevens receives Par- cels from New York every week and Papers for Sub- Jcribers by every mail. B. F. Stevens is the Lon- don Agent of Jeveral Pub- lic Libraries and Depart- ments of Government. BFStcvcna ^cfftiuh Aa,edi f the Vr.iUi Stato j^mnrkttc. Strut A cntnt gUf*!V •E^GUKfOy APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISE^^ENTS. 99 FOREIGN 6 VXD STANFORD'S Containing Title, Price, &c.. Books, Dictionaries, &c. &c. LONDON. STANFORD'S OFFICE PASSPORT AGENCY^ 7, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. Passports mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, Morocco, or Russia Case, with the name of tlicOwnerlettered on the outside, thus preventing injury or loss, as well as lessening the delay in ex- amination abroad. For further particulars, includ- ing the Cost of Visas, &c. ^:c., see Stanford's Passport Cir- cular, which will be forwarded per [)ost on receipt of one Stamp. TOURIST'S CATALOGUE, of the best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation published in the United Kingdom, the Con- tinent, and America, and kept in stock by Edward Stanford, Gratis on application, or free per post for One Stamp. London : EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Charing Cross, S.W. Agent for the sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. LONDON. TO AMERICANS VISITING EUROPE, WILLIAM'^AMES ADAMS, Publisher of Eradsh.a.w's Railw.w and Steam Navig.\tion Guides /7r Great Britain, Ireland, and the Continait of Europe, London: 59, Fleet Street, E.C. Visas obtained to United States Passports, Passport Cases, Travelling Maps, Travelling Bags, Courier Bags, Port- manteaus, Cash Belts, Knapsacks, Railway Rugs, Waterproof and Dust Proof Coats, Travellers' Writing Cases, Inkstands, Door Fasteners, Luggage Labels, and Travelling Soap, The latest Editions of Murray's, Black's, Appleton's, Harper's, and Bradsh.'Vw's British and Foreign Hand- books, French, German, Italian, and Spanish Diction- aries and Phrase Books, every description of Stationery for Travellers, Polyglot Washing Books, and every requisite for Travellers. Experienced Couriers engaged. 100 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. LONDON. I His celebrated Printing Establishment, which has been known for upwards of eighty years in the production of editions de luxe, choice works of typography, excellence of press work, clearness of type, and elegance of style,— for testimonials of which it can refer to known series of books, libraries, works of presentation executed for the Queen, the Science and Art Department, and for the Learned Societies of London, — is conducted by the old firm, Messrs. Whittingham and Wilkins, who undertake all kinds of Illus- trated or Plain Book Work in the ancient and modern styles, Facsimiles of Old Books, in Black letter and the old face Roman and Italic types, Reprints of Old Manuscripts, Magazines and Pamphlets, Catalogues of Public and Private Libraries, Circulars, &c. &c. Messrs. W. and Wv also undertake Woodcut and Steel Illustrations by the best artists, and pay especial attention to the printing of Woodcuts, Ornamental Letters, Medio3Val Initials and Panels ; together with Electro- typing, Stereotyping, Photography, Bookbinding in leather or cloth, and all that can enter into the production of a book. The firm having been so long established, possesses every facility for executing large or small orders with punctuality ; and any one entrustin"- Messrs. W. and W. with their work will have' the advantage of selecting from their large stock of Ornamental Letters, Head and Tailpieces, &c^ which they are constantly augmenting by the addition of new' Copyright Designs. They have also in stock a great variety of superfine Hand -made Papers for printing choice editions or large paper copies. Books of Specimens can be inspected at the Office, and Estimates will be furnished upon application. WHITTINGHAM and WILKINS, TooKS Court, Chancery Lane, LONDON) E. C. LUBECK. HOTEL STADT HAMBURG. Proprietor.— CARL TOEPFEIL This excellent and old-established Hotel, centrally situated in the best part of the city, is well adapted to tourists and fami- lies visiting Liibeck. It is highly spoken of by English and American travellers for its comfort and moderate charf^es Table d'Hote. Baths. "" APPLKTON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 101 LUCERNE. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF, HAUSER BROTHERS. Proprietors. The largest Hotel in Switzerland ; best situation on the Quay, near the Steamers and the Railway Station; with a splendid view of the celebrated Panorama of the Lake and Mountains. The high reputation which this Establishment enjoys among travellers, and especially English and American Families, is the best and strongest assurance of its superior arrangements and comfort. Its new immense Dining-room, -with adjoining Garden saloon and large Parlour, attract the attention of every visitor. American, English, French, German, and Dutch newspapers. Reduced Prices (Pension) are made for prolonged residence in the early and latter part of the Season. 102 APPLETOK'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. MARIENBAD. HOTEL KLINGER. ( IVz^/i newly built dej>enda7ice.) Proprietor— J. D. HALBMAYR. This, the first and largest Hotel in the place, is charmingly situated at the corner of the Promenade and the Park, and commands a beautiful view. It is newly and elegantly furnished, and contains, with the dependance, 230 rooms, salons, &c. Table d'hSte and Service h la Carte. Meals sent to private houses. Carriages in the Hotel. N.B. — Travellers are cautioned not to be misled by carriage drivers and others who falsely state that this Hotel is full, and use other pretexts to mislead. The Proprietor of this Hotel pays no fees to cabmen or others to bring guests to his establishment. MATLOCK BATH (Derbyshire). NEW BATH HOTEL. This Hotel is in the centre of the grand Scenery for which Matlock Bath is celebrated. It is within easy distance of Haddon Hall and Chatsworth. Messrs. IVATTS & JORDAN beg to thank their numerous American visitors for their patronage, and hope for a continuance of the same. Table d'hote. An Omnibus meets each Train. Please book to Matlock Bath Station — not Matlock Bridge. MELROSE. THE ABBEY HOTEL, ABBEY-GATE, MELROSE. This large and commodious Hotel is built on the Abbey grounds, al the entrance to the far-famed Ruins, and only two minutes' walk from the Railway Station. Parties coming to the Hotel are cautioned against being imposed upon by Cab Drivers and others at the Railway Station and elsewhere, as this is the only Hotel which commands a view of Mel- rose Abbey. An extensive addition having been lately built to this Establishment, over- looking the Ruins, consisting of Suites of Sitting and Bed-rooms, it is now the largest and most comfortable Hotel in Melrose, and the Charges are Moderate. There has also been added a large Public Coffee-room, and a Ladies' Coffee room adjoining. Wines, Spirits, etc., of the choicest qualities. One-horse Carriage to Abbotsford and Back, 6j. 6 MEYRINGEN. HOTEL AND PENSION DU SAUVAGE. (^opposite the Cascades of Reichcnbach and A/pbac/i.) This well situated Hotel offers every desirable comfort combined with moderate charges. It is surrounded by an English garden, and a fine view is to be had of the glacier of Rosenlaui, Wellhom, and Engleshorner. English Church in the garden of the Hotel. Baths, &c. .tiTON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS, y MILAN (ITALY). uRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE. T. BAER, Proprietor. (^Not to be cotifQiinded witJi, the Grand Hotel d,e Milan.) This excellent first-class Hotel is situate^ in the finest part of the city, opposite St. Charles', and close to the Cathedral and Public Gardens. Honoured for many years with the patronage of the Nobility and Gentry of all nations, it is recommended for its clean and comfortable apartments, excellent aiisifte, and attentive service. Table d'Hote, Reading Room, &c. — (See Murray's Guide.') MILAN. GLOVES {Systbne Joznmi). X MANUFACTORY AND SALEROOM OF C. BELOTTI, 21, Gallery Victor Emajtuel. English and American travellers will find here a choice assortment of the Gloves of this yf&W-^no-vinfabrique, at very moderate prices. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 105 MUNICH. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL. This first-class Hotel is situated in the Maximilian Strasse, which is justly considered one of the finest streets in Germany as well for its magnificent and grand buildings as for its beautiful ornamental promenade. It is fitted up in a luxurious style, combining elegance and comfort, and possesses all the modem requirements of a first- rate establishment. T/ie charges arc moderate ajid fixed. Hydraulic Elevator. . 106 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. MUNICH. HOTEL DE BAYIERE, PROMENADE PLATZ. THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, GREATLY PATRONISED BY AMERICAN TRAVELLERS, SITUATED IN THE CENTRE OF THE ART COLLECTIONS, Offers Superior Accommodations at Moderate Charges. LOUIS WAELZEL, Manager, APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 107 MUNICH. WIMMER AND CO,, GALLERY OF FINE ARTS, 3, BRIENNER STREET, Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gaixery OF FINE ARTS, containini; an Extensive Ccllection of MODERN PAINTINGS [ by the best Munich Artists, . j PAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AND ON GLASS, also a large Assortment of PHOTOGRAPHS, Including the complete Collections of the various Public Galleries. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'CracKen, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. Keller & LlNGG, 97, Reade Street, New York. MUNICH. PHOTOGRAPHIC SALOONS AND STUDIO. HANFSTAENGL, Photographer to the Emperor of Germany, Publisher of tlie Collections of the Dresden and Munich Galleries and Museums, Mr. H., who is noted as an Artist as well as Photo- grapher, enjoys a European reputation for the superior style and finish of his productions, especially his Por- traits from the carte-de-visite to the life size represent the highest perfection of art. The Studio is close to the Four Seasons' Hotel, Maximilianstrasse, No. 7. appletox's guide book, advertisements. NAPLES. HOTEL DE RUSSIE. D. ORLANDI, Proprietor. THIS UNEXCEPTIONAL FIRST-CLASS HOTEL Is charmingly situated on the Bay of Naples, fronting Mount Vesuvius. THE SITUATION IS THE MOST HEALTHY AND CENTRAL IN THE CITY. fjii^m^ NEW YORK. --.Fi ''•'^ ^"^ r '^fcJ ^^•i^? £«att 'jfeBlI 3o:'<'G^~; - V^ ,:^.'^ "*>/- >r^ •K ^^ife^ ;\z^- >■ (1^^ ^- t^ ^AV^ ,k 1*^ .^ -^ a y ■i--^-, T-: -HX1 ^ ,^1 £a -4 "^^ ^Ig t^. 'I' ^^ £i *^-.; .,1, r^^^s:!!^^ ^t^,J 110 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. BROWN BROTHERS & CO,, 59, WALL STREET, NEW YORK. BILLS OF EXCHANGE ON GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND. COMMERCIAL AND TRAVELLING CREDITS ISSUED, A vailable in any part of the World, TELEGRAPHIC TRANSFERS OF MONEY MADE TO AND FROM LONDON AND LIVERPOOL Advances made on Cotton and other Produce. BROWN, SHIPLEY & CO., FOUNDERS COURT, LOTHBURY, EC, LONDON. BROWN, SHIPLEY & CO., LIVERPOOL. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. Ill JAY COOKE & CO., BANKERS, New York, Philadelphia, and Washington, 20, WALL STREET, NEW YORK. FOREIGN EXCHANGE. CIRCULAR LETTERS OF CREDIT FOR TRAVELLERS. COMMERCIAL CREDITS, CABLE TRANSFERS. JAY COOKE, Mcculloch & co., AMERICAN BANKERS, 41, LOMBARD STREET, EX., LONDON. 112 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEKTS. NEUCHATEL (SWITZERLAND). GRAND HOTEL DU MONT BLANC. Proprietors— BAM MERT AND ROSER. This splendid establishment, the largest, most important, and most recently constructed in Neuchatel, enjoys a fine view of the Lake and mountains, and is surrounded by a garden — magnificent sa//e d »m«^s well known Hotel mnsi ceatrally ^itu.ucii. near lue iv.i.i.>.iy Mation and landing Pier of the steamers, is well recommended for its comfort. Kaths in the Hotel, good Wines and good cooking. Weekly or monthly arrangements can also be tnade. Omnibus at the station ; Carriages for visiting Miramar, the Grottos of Adiesberg and other places of interest. 134 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. TURIN. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, ^Situated Place du Chateau, Opposite the King's Palace, This first-class Hotel is entirely refurnished, to afford great comfort, and in the best taste by its new Proprietors, Messrs. Boratti and Casaleggio. There is an excellent Table d'Hote at half-past Five o'clock ; it is much frequented, and the charges are moderate. An Omnibus of the Hotel will be found at every train. TURIN. HOTEL DE LA LIGURIE. Proprietor— FERDINAND NEGRO. THIS HOTEL is recommended to English and American families for its central situation, near the Station, cleanliness and general arrangements. The Restaurant very moderate in charges, is frequented by the best company. Large and small well furnished Apartments. Reading Room supplied with the " Times," several foreign news- papers and •' Appleton's Guibe Book." Good attendance. Omnibus at every train. English and German spoken. . APPLETOyrS GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMESTS. 135 TURIN. HOTEL TROMBETTA, FORMERLY HOTEL FEDER. Mr. Bernard Trombetta, who until the First of April, 1863 was Proprietor of the Hotel de I'Europe, is now Pro- prietor of the Hotel Feder, which he has entirely transformed by the most tasteful improvements. The large Court-yard of the Hotel is now converted into a pretty Garden, which gives the apartments a more pleasant and agreeable aspect, and the interior of the hotel is inaccessible to any noise. The number of the apartments on the ground floor and entresol have been augmented. Table d'hote — Reading-room — Smoking-room and Baths — Omnibus at the Station — Moderate charges— Two hotels at Genoa, Hotel Trombetta (formerly Feder) and Hotel de la Ville. 136 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. VENICE. HOTEL ROYAL DANIELL GENOVESI AND CAMPI, Proprietors. This beautiful first class Hotel is situated on the Grand Canal within a few steps of the Doge's Palace in the most delightful and convenient position in Venice. It contains nearly 200 Chambers. Saloons for Conver- sation, Smoking, Reading, and Billiards, An Interpreter will be found at the Railway Station on the arrival of each train. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 137 VENICE. HOTEL BARBESI. BARBESI HOTEL, PALACE ZUCCHELLL Kept by MR. BARBESI, Who personally superintends its management. ^^ SUPERIOR ACCOMMODATION. Large and small Apartme7its for Families or Single Ccntlemctt. The Hotel Barbesi is situated near tlie Place St. Marc, and having a fine garden, and extensive views over the sea, will be found a desirable residence. Arrangements on reasonable terms made with visitors intending to remain a few weeks. Pension (everything includetl) from 8 frs. a-day. Table d'Hote. Reading-room, overlooking the Grand Canal, supplied with English, American, French, and German Newspapers. Hot and Cold Baths. English spoken. A new building has been added to the Hotel to receive boarders ; it commands also a fine view of the Grand Canal, and possesses a large Garden for the use of visitors. 138 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. VENICE. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE AND PENSION. Proprietor, ADOLPHE GENOVESI. Travellers are respectfully informed that this excellent and well-situated Establishment, overlooking the Lagunes, and en- joying the most brilliant panoramic view of Venice, was opened on the 15th of October last, and that all comforts have been combined to secure visitors a cheerful home. Large and small well-furnished Apartments and Rooms (private) at moderate prices. Sa//e d manger, Billiard, and Reading-rooms ; the latter supplied with a great many national and foreign newspapers. Visitors desirous of making a protracted stay may rely upon the most favourable terms. Good accommodation and atten- tive servants ; the whole under the direction of an experienced Director and superintendence of the Proprietor himself. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEME\TS. 139 VENICE. CHARLES PONTI, Optician to H. M. the King of Italy, 52, ST. MARK'S SQUARE, Inventor of the Megalethoscope, of the Isoperiscopic Spectacles, &c. The patented Megalethoscope, which obtained prize medals in many exhibitions, is only an improved form of the Alethoscope of the same inv^cntor. This Instrument, which is yet unsurpassed, mag- nifies considerably any size of photographs, producing a bold relief without exaggeration, the clearness is in- creased and the views are throughout their extension so framed that the eyes cannot dwell on the margin at the cost of the stereoscopic effect. The views called transparencies show the view by day and changing the light the view appears by moonlight, illuminated, or with its natural colours. THE ISOPERISCOPIC SPECTACLES allow the equality of sight in the turning movements of the eye and are known as the best and cheapest Spectacles. Prize Medals at Paris, and from the scien- tific Institute of Padua. 140 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. VERONA. HOTEL BARBESI, {To the Grande Czard). , . Proprietor— ALEXANDRE BARBESI DE PAUL. Situated in the centre of the town, near the Amphitheatre, the Corso, and the Raihvay Stations, entirely refurnished and embelhshed by the new Proprietor, who will spare no pains to render it perfectly comfortable and deserving of the confidence of travellers. Apartments for Families or Single Gentlemen at reasonable charges. Table d'hote, Service h la carte, and private dinners at fixed prices. Omnibus to and from every train. French, English, and German spoken. VEVAY. GRAND HOTEL DU LAC, Proprietor— EDOUARD DELAJOUX. . This first-class and newly constructc;d Hotel is particularly recommended for its good accommodation and its beautiful situation. It contains 150 Rooms and comfortable Apartments. The Saloon and Dining Rooms are Remarkable for their beauty. Ex- cellent cuisine. English and American Newspapers. Pension in winter. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEXTS. lU VEVAY. GRAND HOTEL DE VEVAY. ALFRED HIRSCHY. First-class house in every respect. Splendid situation in the midst of a large park, on the Lake shore. Magni- ficent view in all directions. Baths in the Hotel — Lift — Telegraphic bureau — Landing place for Lake steamers — Omnibus at the Railway Station — Board during the winter season. APPLhTON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. VIENNA. GRAND HOTEL, 9, Karnthner Ring. This splendid first-class Hotel has been newly built and furnished. It is most advantageously situated in a central and salubrious position on the Ring, in the immediate vicinity of the new " Grand Opera," and offers both to Families and Single Persons every possible accommodation combined with elegance and comfort. The " Ring" is the name of the new Boulevard that encircles the inner town, forming an avenue of stately palaces, superb edifices, and new establishments of every kind. It is also the fashionable Promenade of the Capital. The Grand Hotel contains 240 Beds, large and small Apartments and Single Rooms, a Ladies' Parlour supplied with a Piano ; a Reading Room, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, two large Dining Saloons. Hot and Cold Baths on every floor. Lifts for communication with each story, etc. Telegraph Office corresponding with all countries. The culinary department and the wine cellars furnish everything that is requisite. VILLENEUVE (Lake of Geneva). HOTEL LORD BYRON, (Between the Castle of Chillon and Villeneuve). Kept by GUSTAVE WOLFF (Proprietor also ofthe Hotel, de L'EcaatGsasva) First-class Hotel, ofFering every- comfort for an agree.ible residence ; surrounded ty a vast Park and a beautiful Garden, and admirablysituated for Excursions to the mountains. Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Reduced prices for aprolonged stay_. Horses and Carriages. Breakfast : Table d'Hote. Private Dinners at any hour. English spoken. APPLETOfTS GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 14S WIESBADEN. VICTORIA HOTEL Proprietors— J. HELBACH and HOLZAPFEL. Recently much enlarged by a new Bath-house adapted to it, this is now a first-class Hotel, equal to any on the Con- tinent. This unrivalled and admirably-conducted Hotel con- tinues to enjoy an extensive and high reputation among English and American families and travellers of all nations. Its situation, facing the Station, and its spacious Terrace, command a fine view of the Promenade, &:c. Beautiful Dining-Room. 225 well-furnished Apartments and Bedrooms and Bath-rooms. Drawing-room for Ladies ; Smoking and Billiard Rooms; well-supplied Reading Room. Excellent accommodation; good attendance. Tad/e d'Hote at One and Five d clock. 144 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. WIESBADEN. P. A. TACCHFS Successor. No. I, Old Colonnade (opposite the Theatre). BOHEMIAN, FANCY GLASS AND CRYSTAL WAREHOUSE. See Frankfort-on-the-Main. WIESBADEN. J. FRIEDMANN (D. and M. Lowenthal, Successors). Jewellery and Precious Stones. NOS. 3 AND 4, old colonnade. See also Frankfort-on-the-Main. WILDBAD (IN \A^URTEMBERG). HOTEL KLUMPP, jFormerly Hotel de /' Ours. MR. WILLIAM KLUMPP, Proprietor. This first-class Hotel, containing 36 Saloonsand 1 70 Bed-rooms, with a separate Breakfast and new Reading and Conversation Rooms, as well as a Smoking Saloon, and a very extensive and elegant Dining Room, an artificial garden over the river : is situ- ated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable Apartments, good Cuisine and Cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent Hotel, Table d'Hote at i and 5 o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. Exchange Office. Correspondent of the principal Bank- ing-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibuses of the Hotel to and from each Train. Fine Private Carriages when requested. Warm and Cold Baths in the Hotel. WITTENBERG. {Birthplace of Luther^. LUDWIG'S HOTEL ZUR GOLDENEN WEINTRAUBE^ ON THE MARKET PLACE. This Hotel having been thoroughly renovated and furnished with every modem comfort, is confidently recommended to the travelling public, who will find here prompt attendance with moderate prices. A carriage from the Hotel awaits at the Station the arrival of all trains. WILLIAM LUDWIG, Proprietor. APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 146 WURZBURG. HOTEL KRONPRINZ VON BAYERN. This first-class Hotel is situated in the finest part of the City (on the Schlossplatx), opposite the Royal Castle, and adjoining a fine garden. It is new, and contains every re- quisite for comfort. Large salons, dining and breakfast room. Table d'hote at i o'clock. Dinners a part and a la carte at all hours. Excellent Wines. Wines of Franconia, chiefly the produce of the proprietor's own vineyards. The Hotel Omnibus conveys passengers to andfrofn all trains. PAUL AMMON. O K 146 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. ZURICH. HOTEL AND PENSION BAUR AU LAC. Proprietor— TH. BAUR. This renowned Establishment is situated on the banks of the Lake, and commands superb views. Large Garden extending to the shore. Bathsy Reading Room, and all tJie conveniences and comforts of other modern first-class Hotels. ZURICH. HOTEL BAUR (en Vllle), Bahnhofstrasse, Mr. F. ZIESING, Proprietor. This House is one of the best first-class Hotels in Switzerland ; recom- mends itself for its comfort, elegance, and moderate charges. From the terrace of the Hotel, the most beautiful views are to be obtained. Reading Saloon, supplied with Newspapers, Books, &c. APFLETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. 147 GUIDE BOOKS PUBLISHED BY D. APPLETON & CO. I. APPLETON'S HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL. NORTHERN AND EASTERN TOUR. A New Edition of the Hand-Book of Travel, entirely re-written, containing Latest Information of all Lines of Travel north of Marj'land and east of Ohio, embracing the New England States, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and the British Dominions ; affording Descriptive Sketches of the Cities, Towns, Rivers, Lakes, Waterfalls, Mountains, Hunting and Eishing Grounds, Watering-places, Seaside Resorts, and all scenes and objects of importance and interest within the district named, i vol. i2mo. Flexible cloth. Price ;^2.oo. This work is an invaluable guide for the traveller. It is the most complete hand-book of American travel published — giving an exhaustive and reliable survey of all lines of travel and of all places of note in the Northern and Eastern States, including the entire range of ordinary summer travel. IL SKELETON TOURS THROUGH ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, WALES, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, POLAND AND SPAIN, With various ways of getting from place to place, the time .occupied, and the cost of each journey to a party of four ; with some of the principal things to see, especially country- houses. By HENRY WINTHROP SARGENT. I vol. i2mo., limp covers. Price ^^fi.co. ESTABLISHED 1832. THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEPOT, anil lasBport an* douttas' ajtntB, LEE AND CARTER, 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON {Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). KNAPSACKS STIFF OR LIMP. PORTMANTEAUX OF ALL PATTERNS. BAGS OF ALL KINDS. Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this Establishmettt before making purchases for their journey. AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS' REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM I— Guide Books (in pocket bindings). Maps and Plans of all Parts. Foreign Dictionaries. Dialogues and Grammars. Polyglott Washing Books. Journals and Diaries. Pocket Books and Note Cases. Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases. Money Belts and Bags. Writing Cases and Blotters. Ink Stands and Light Boxes. Foreign Stationery. Travelling Chess Boards, &c. Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews. Barometers & Thermometers. Field Glasses and Compasses. Eye Preservers and Spectacles. Railway Rugs and Straps. Hat Cases and Bonnet Boxes. Luggage Straps and Labels. Travelling Lamps. Camp Candlesticks. Flasks and Drinking Cups. Sandwich Cases. Luncheon Baskets. Dressing Cases & Housewives. Soap and Brush Boxes. Sponge and Sponge Bags. Baths and Air Cushions. Waterproofs. Camp Stools and Leg Rests. Portable Closet Seats. Etnas for boiling water. Door Fasteners. Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors. Glycerine and Insect Powder. i APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEyTS. 149 HOWELL, JAMES, and CO. J5V Sl'ECIAL APPOINTMKM TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN. THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES. HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF DENMARK. HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF THE BELGIANS. &c., &c., &c. JettJCllerSt ^iltjcrsmitbs, ann Dressing-case ^altec0, BRIDAL AND PRESENTATION GIFTS. From One Guinea to One Thousand Pounds. A Large Collection of Jewellery of Modern Design, Recherche Taste, and Moderate Price, in Diamonds, Gold, Enamel, and Precious Stones. SILVER AND ELECTRO-PLATE. Clocks, Candelabra, and A rticlcs in English Ormolu. SPKCIALITES. The Three Guinea Gold Bridesmaids' Lockets. A'tX'i^/ered. Artistic Monogram Jewellery from designs by Artists of repute. The Pall Mall Jewel Case with Fire-resisting Iron Safe. By Royal Letters Patent. 5, 7, 9, Regent Street, Pall Mall, London. Prices marked in plain figures, and Five per Cent, discount allowed for Cash Purchases. 150 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. JORDAN AND LEWIS, Practical Cailors, 269, Regent Street, {Five doors froi/i Oxford Circus), Beg leave to inform their English, Continental, and American Patrons, that they have made additional arrangements to meet the continued demand on the resources of their Establishment, as well as to secure the reputation for superior work which they have hitherto enjoyed. Gentlemen who honour them with a visit will find every variety of CHOICE AND FASHIONABLE MATERIAL Suitablt' for the present season, iiuiiidiii}^ the best SCOTCH TWEEDS & WEST OF ENGLAND ANGOLAS. Messrs. Jordan & Lewis have been favoured with the custom of some of the most eminent citizens and mercliants of AMERICA. N. B.^ The utmost despatch, excellence of material, good ivork- maiiship, and moderate charges may be relied on. AI'PLETOX'S Cllhi: HOOK, AUVh.RTlSEMKSTS. l.Sl MORTON, BLISS, and CO. 30, Broad Street, New York, GRANT CIRCULAR NOTES (issued AM) PAID FRtF, OF CHARGE), ANI» LETTERS OE CREDIT EOR TRAVELLERS, AVAILABLE IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD. ALSO ISSUE DRAFTS ON MORTON, ROSE, and Co., LONDON. PROVINCIAL BANK OF IRELAND AND BRANCHES. BANK OF SCOTLAND AND BRANCHES. HOTTINGUER et CIE., PARIS. BANQUE CENTRALE AUTRICHIENNE, PARIS. Telegraphic Transfers of Funds to London and the Continent. Co^ninercial Credits issued for use in India, China, South America, etc. Advances made on Cotton and other approved merchandi.se. Interest allowed on deposits. 152 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. EYRE AND MATTEINI, Mahlon Dickerson Eyre — Joseph C. Matteint, American Bankej^s and Cominissioii Merchants, AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN EXPRESS, 7, VIA MAGGIO, FLORENCE, Cash Letters of Credit, Bankers Drafts, and Circular Notes of all the principal Bankers of Ejirope and the United States; Money collected, U. S. Securities and Gold Bought and Sold ; Are prepared to fulfil Orders for Works of Art of all descrip- tions. Pay particular attention to the purchase of Ancient and Modern Pictures, copies of Ancient or Modern Statues of the finest execution and marble, for Galleries, Parlours, Parks and Gardens, of which several are always on exhibition at their Office. Fountains, Monuments for Public Grounds, Ceme- teries, &c., Mantel Pieces, Vases, all carefully inspected by them before packing, to which great attention is paid. Goods forwarded to all parts of the World ; also best Italian Wines, Marsala, Capri, &=c. Addresses furnished of the best Florentine Artists, Boarding-Houses, Hotels, Shops, and Artisans. American Papers. Clients' Luggage stored Free. EMILIO MASI, American Consulate, Leghorn, Agent for receivbig and forwarding goods. APPLFJO.WS GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISKMEMTS. I.i3 HENRY CLEWS & CO. 32, fF(7// Street, New York, CLEWS, HABICHT & CO. 5, Lot/ibitry, Loiuion, DRAW BILLS OF EXCHANGE AT SIGHT OR SIXTY DAYS, Issue Commercial Credits, and Letters of Credit for Travellers in Sums to suit, A vai ladle in all pa7'ts of Europe ; ALSO MAKE TELEGRAPHIC TRANSFERS; RECEIVE DEPOSIT ACCOUNTS, subject to Check at sight, and allow Interest thereon at the current rates, on all daily balances ; ALSO EXECUTE INVESTMENT ORDERS FOR SECURITIES. 154 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. JAMES W. TUCKER & CO., 3 a7ic/ 5, jRiie Scribe, PARIS. AMERICAN BANKERS. TUCKER, ANDREWS & CO., 52, Wall Street, NEW YORK. ALL SECURITIES OF THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT BOUGHT AND SOLD. Loans negotiated upon the same. DRAFTS ON AMERICA AND ENGLAND BOUGHT AND SOLD. Travellers' Letters of Credit issued on Bankers in all the principal cities of Europe. Letters of Credit on London cashed at the best rates. The Reading-Room, large and well-lighted, is furnished with Journals from the different cities of the United States and England. Letters addressed to the care of this house will /;/ all cases be delivered or forwarded on the day of receipt ; a separate letter-box is assigned to each person receiving his letters at these bureaus. Travellers' luggage received, carefully stored and insured. An American registry is kept, in which strangers are invited to inscribe their names on their arrival at Paris. AI'l-f.ETOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMEMS. 135 The only Prize awarded in the Dublin International Exhibition, 1865, Fur VVai krprook Travelling Dress Baskep Trunks. ViWe yiirors' Report, Class C, S\r. 16 />': IMI'nklAXT TO LADY TRAVKLLKRS. NO MORE CRUSHING OF DRESSES. I'or India and Continental travelling, the Lightest, the Cheapest, and the Strongest Tnmks in the World, which incur no charge for railway carriage. M. MYERS'S NEWLY INVENTED ROYAL ALEXANDRA, I .ight, self-acting, e.vpantl- ing, waterproof travelling, £2 2S. Dress Basket Trunks, fitted with cum- parlnients for Bonnets. Jewellery. I'nibrellas, and iither fancy articles. e\tr;i. Suitable for a short jour- ney or a long tour ; beini; >elf-e.\panding, are adapt- ed for either a small or large c|uantity of Ladies" EUGENIE, 30J-. Dresses, constructed to increase in size according to the quantity of dresses required to lie travelled with. From one dress to a whole trousseau may be carried without creasing or injury from dust or damp ; and are one-third the weight of any other bo.v. EXr.WDlh 1 \11TV. CIIKLTKMIAM. Date of Patent, 13th April, 1863. By Her Majesty's Royal Letters Patent. Brevet d'Invention, France. P.VrROXlSED BY THE ELITE OF EUROPE. m.^aTyers, Cavendish House, Wigmore St. Cavendish Scj. London, W. N.B.— M. MYERS respectfully cautions the Nobility and the Public generally agauist mutations, he being the Sole Inventor and Patentee. None are genuine unless .sumped ''.M. MYERS'S PATENT." All infringements will be proceeded against Illustrated Catalogues, with every description of Trunks, Portmanteaus, fitted and unhtted Tnivelling Bags, &c., &c., with prices, sent free on application. 156 APPLETON'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERTISEMENTS. LANDON & CO., 7, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, LONDON, W. Catlors* Under the Patronage of the most Distinguished English and Continental Nobility. Established upwards of Fifty Years. PRIVATE CLOTHING, COURT DRESSES, AND NAVAL AND MILITARY UNIFORMS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. Shirts, Hosiery, and Complete Home and Colonial Outfits. LADIES' RIDING HABITS. *^* Every measure is registered and all particulars kept for future guidance. AI'l'LLTOX'S GUIDE BOOK, ADVERl'lSEMENTH. H. GAZE, OFFICIALLY APPOINTED SOLE AGENT FOR CIRCULAR TOURS To all parts of the Continent by THE SHORT SEA ROUTE. TOURIST TICKETS From London, and all Principal Stations on the NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY, via Dover and Calais, or Folkstone and Boulogne, by Mail Express, Tidal and every Service, to PARIS, SWITZERLAND, THE RHINE, ITALY, &c. ; and to all Parts of the Continent. Personally conducted tours to the Rhine, Switzerland, and Italy. Fourth Tour to Palestine, Egypt, and Asia Minor. Tourists and Family tickets to nearly all parts of England. Ireland, Scotland and Wales, Jersey, Guernsey, Normandy. Brittany and America ; also for the NEW CIRCULAR KENTISH TOUR. HOTEL COUPONS For accommodation at first class Hotels, Continent, ^s. : Paris, 6s. and ^s. ; Jersey, 6s. f)d. per day. See " Tourist Gazette," 2d., post free, ^d. Offices: 163, Strand, London. r-J r>l P ^ =0 =0 a d a 3 a a a a a a a □ a n G a a a a a a a 1 a ROYAL SCOTCH WAREHOUSE, LONDON. Scott Adie's New Spring Tartan-spun Silks, Real Earlston Ginghams, and Extra Fine Summer Linsey Woolseys, Are now on View, in the Largest Choice for the Season ; Also his Celebrated Handloom Linsey Woolseys, FOR LADIEb' TRAVELLING DRESSES AND SEA VOYACES, l^n^^, PaiD3, etc* Ladies' Waterproof Travelling Cloaks and Jackets of Pure Scotch Materials, /;/ f/ie Nnvest Colours ami most Fashionable ami Useful Shapes, and in textures suited for all Seasons and Climates. BOYS' HIGHLAND SUITS. SCOTT ADIE, 115, Regent Street. Entrance at the Corner of Vigo Street. , 53g S)pecial appointment to tfjc "Jtouit. I ^^SE52SaS2S2SHS5SHSHSS5HSHS2ScSHSSS2SHS55SSH5aSMBb32SH5HS2ScS25Ei \ 0\ University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. Series 9482 .f,